# [Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club



## wntrsnowg

Warning!! This post is not mobile browser friendly. Optimal viewing of the information contained via "desktop" browsing

*NEW MEMBERS:
PLEASE READ THE FAQ!!*
Many of your questions can be answered here, rather than being asked about again and again in the thread only to be referred back to here, the Original Post (OP).



Spoiler: Change Log



10/27/14: Updated info on OCing True10 monitors. Added info on how to OC monitor on Mac OSx
10/19/14: Added design request on OP, also added first-time buyers tips. Added new header graphic!
8/19/14: Added info on Nvidia 780ti overclock patching. Thanks *BGKris* for letting me know.
7/14/14: General updating
7/12/14: Added info about the 10-bit panel models to FAQ.
5/21/14: Dusting off cobwebs. Updated Nvidia OC instructions. Added "color sustainer" to color profiles.
- - - - Added warning that multi-input monitors dont game well.
2/8/2014: Added some ICC profiles
12/26/13: Updated manufacturer websites. Updated FAQ.
9/12/13: Added data sheet for internal Samsung screen in "Relevant discussion and information links"
9/9/13: OP back to normal and added to vesa stand section
8/26/13: Updated verifying monitor OCs. Updated Tape Mod section.
8/19/13: Updated monitor OC procedure.
7/28/13: Added to FAQ.
7/22/13: Added Tek-Syndicate review.
7/12/13: Added a (futile) attempt to get new members to actually read the OP.
7/3/13: Added info to the "Tape Mod" section. Updated FAQ and OP layout.
6/28/13: Added vesa mounting de-bezeled monitor section
6/25/13: Finished verifying all members. All legit!
6/6/13: Added members list photo verification
5/28/13: Added "Official" status, mod De-Zant approved.
5/31/13: Added to reviews section. Added members list analysis section.
5/26-27/13: Added to FAQ section
5/15/13: Added to 'Reviews' section
5/8/13: Added color calibration profiles for monitors with same PLS screen (Asus, Samsung, and Viewsonic).
5/4/13: Added change log. Added Tape Mod in help section. Added some FAQ points.
5/3/13: Added additional color calibration profiles.
4/27/13: Added FAQ section.
4/22/2013: Club founded, thread started. Compiled information into OP.



Monitor Information



Spoiler: First-time buyer tips! What to look out for, what to avoid



*ALL Multi-input / True10 models WON'T OVERCLOCK*
Added on 10-27-14: Some have reported that the newer True10 monitors can OC to roughly 85 Hz. YMMV

PLEASE check out this post [CLICK] for some solid suggestions on what to look out for and avoid if buying a PLS monitor. This dedicated PLS Club Member tries to do periodic updates as to what is good, what is bad.





Spoiler: Frequently Asked Questions & Useful Information



Q: Why Korean PLS monitors? What is different about them?
A: Here is some back story: IPS Korean monitors have been around for awhile now, but with increasing popularity their prices have risen. Overclocking variants cost even more.
Out of this comes new Korean variants using the Samsung PLS screen, specifically the Qnix and the X-star, which offer the same (if not better) image quality of the popular IPS and have a very good chance of overclocking to 120 Hz.

Q: Is it worth it to buy a pixel perfect monitor?
A: *No.* All evidence as of now suggests that probability of receiving a monitor with no or little dead pixels is random, even if purchasing a 'pixel perfect' monitor. It seems that it is a marketing ploy for them to get more money.

Q: Does the single-input version of these monitors overclock?
A: Yes. To see the various overclocks (OCs) reported, look to the expandable section below titled "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis" and look for the pie graph of reported OCs.

Q: Does the multi-input model of these monitors overclock?
A: No. Even connecting the multi-input monitor via dual-link DVI will not result in it being able to overclock.

Q: Is the multi-input model of these monitors good for gaming?
A: No. They have "two frames of input lag" and thus are very bad for gaming.

Q: Does the TRUE10 model (10-bit panel) overclock? How is the input-lag?
A: No it does not overclock (regardless of what they try and tell you, for the time being). Added on 10-27-14: Some have reported that the newer True10 monitors can OC to roughly 85 Hz. YMMV
Input lag is worse than on the 8-bit panel version. DO NOT get this if you are trying to game. These are graphic design specific panels, and you probably need a 10-bit specific graphics card to even make use of the 10-bit color depth.

Q: If you can overclock in the computer to 120 Hz, does the monitor truly run at 120 Hz?
A: Yes. Proof: http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/530#post_19788281

Q: Can I buy a monitor that will OC to 120 Hz, guaranteed?
A: No, not as far as I know. There are theories that monitors sold by certain sellers have a better chance to OC higher, but it is considered to be random.

Q: Does the DVI cable used have an effect on OC ability?
A: Some have reported better and worse OCs from using a different cable than that included. Some have also reported varrying OCs with switching their GPU. YMMV

Q: Do any issues come from overclocking, i.e. does it affect reliability?
A: Unknown at this time. However, other korean monitors have been overclocked for years with no issues.

Q: Should I buy an X-star or a Qnix (Any differences? Which one will overclock better?)
A: Short answer: Choose whichever one you want.
Long answer: They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability.

Q: Should I buy a matte or glossy monitor?
A: Glossy is superior for image clarity (clarity = sharpness of image. not 'quality' or 'color' of image). The Matte coating on these monitors is semi-Glossy, not a thick Matte coating so it isn't as obtrusive as traditional matte coating. So, choosing Matte or Glossy comes down to if you will be bothered by reflections. If there is a potential for daylight or electrical light reflection, do not get Glossy.

Q: Can i remove the stock stand (base and stem) and mount the monitor?
A: Yes. Both the qnix and x-star have 100mm vesa mount pattern, so mounting is possible. Removing the base is easy (unscrew the thumb screw on the bottom), but removing the clear stem requires opening the monitor casing and unscrewing it. There are multiple videos and pictures below in the "Monitor fixes, support, help" area describing how to open the monitor casing. Once the monitor casing is opened, it is easy to see how to unscrew the screws holding in the base stem.

Q: Will I be able to notice the response time and/or input lag (especially in gaming)?
A: Many users, myself included, have noticed motion blur during FPS gaming (such as planetside 2). It would be even more noticeable in 'twitch' gaming. It is fine for regular use (Leauge of Legends, Guildwars 2, etc.), but gaming professionals should look elsewhere.

Q: Is the panel 6 or 8 bit?
A: Panel is 8 bit.

Q: Differences between IPS and PLS? (why is one better than the other, if that?)
A: IPS is made by LG and PLS is made by Samsung. They are both pretty much the same thing, but technically PLS is better.

Q: I don't live in the U.S.. How much will I have to pay in additional shipping fees, VAT, taxes, etc.?
A: Look at the expandable section below titled "VAT, Fees, Taxes by Country"

Q: Does my monitor have any dead pixels or back light bleed?
A: *Here is a good website to check*. Choose a color and make it full screen to check dead/stuck pixels. For checking back light bleed, choose the black and make it full screen. Make your surroundings as dark as possible with no lights or daylight.

Q: Oh noe, I received a monitor and it has back light bleed (BLB)!! How will I know if it is worthy of getting a return over?
A: Some ebay sellers straight up say that BLB is not something they take returns over. There have been exceptions, however. So take pictures of the monitor in the best standardized way to show BLB. Refer to the "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" section below for the subsection titled "How to properly take pictures of your backlight bleed" to learn how to take pictures of the BLB, and post them here on this forum.

Q: Is there a way to fix back light bleed (BLB)?
A: Possibly, to some degree. Look below in the expandable section titled "Tape mod to fix Back Light Bleed"

Q: What GPU should I have to support the resolution of this monitor?
A: For non-gaming, anything is fine as long as it has the DVI-D port. For gaming, a card with 2GB GDDR5 is recommended and anything above that is great. Below 2GB will work, just not the best for modern games.





Spoiler: QX2710 Evolution II Monitor Specs




*It should be noted that the listed Response time of the Qnix is 6ms, where it is reported to actually be 8ms*





Spoiler: Pictures of unboxing a Qnix



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is strange, the larger hole on the left has no purpose, it's the small hole in the middle you use.
> 
> 
> 
> This one came out easily, the rest were pretty well stuck in.
> 
> 
> panel/casing gaps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tilt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 10' Monoprice 24awd DVI-D compared to the 3' one in the monitor box.


Comes come with a DVI-DL cable. It's not very long. Also comes with plug, so find an old PC PSU cable.
http://minus.com/lhBLUNzitIRnG

They included a USA adapter.
http://minus.com/luEymcdwGGEdq





Spoiler: Pictures of unboxing an X-star



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*








Spoiler: Detailed videos on opening the monitor, case internals, etc. (Thanks dascth)



http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE





Spoiler: Relevant manufacturer and discussion/information links



*Qnix Manufacturer website*
*X-Star Manufacturer website*
Data sheet for Samsung Panel (screen used on these monitors)
Korean PLS Monitor Club spinoff at Hardforum
Specs for the Samsung PLS panel used
Korean Qnix discussion on OCN
Korean PLS overclocking results
Discussion over on 120Hz.net





Spoiler: Reviews



"NCX" at wecravegamestoo.com Qnix QX2710 full review




 Not entirely accurate throughout the video, but they still recommend it over the ACHIEVA Shimian.





Overclockers.ru Review (in Russian ---> translate)
"mspamed's" impressions on the X-star DP2710
"MrGreenankle's" X-star DP2710 impressions/URL]
"rune3400's" Qnix QX2700 impressions
"HyperMatrix" (at 120Hz.net) impressions

Review of a similar monitor, but with an IPS screen. It contains good pictures of the monitor, and inside the monitor.



Monitor Fixes, Support, Help



Spoiler: Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis



Some analysis on the members list submissions, _done by yours truly_
*These should not be a persons ONLY source in buying advice. If unsure, ask us about a seller or specific listing.
This is simply to show trends in what members here have purchased thus far. Enjoy*









My QNIX from hulustar had this play within the monitor case, once I knew about it I had to fix it. Also, my screen sat too low in the monitor case and cut off the image a little.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> 
> Not really accurate, just try pushing the plastic at these spots with a screwdriver from the side. It isn't really hard.


I followed the post above and its image to open up the monitor case.
After following this, you will see that the front portion of the monitor casing (the bezel) comes off. From this point, the screen isn't removable since it is attached to the metal frames on each side with 2 screws per side. Unscrew those 2 screws and the screen is now able to move around, with the monitor connections still connected. Be careful!


Found this inside. A Samsung PLS panel, that confirms that.


The metal frame that holds the monitor in place rests inside the bottom of the monitor case, as circled in red. To solve my image being cut off on the bottom, I wanted to add something here as a spacer.


Another view of where the metal frame rests on. This is the bottom of the monitor case.


Decided to use electrical tape as a spacer. Added 3 layers of electrical tape on the 4 raised circle areas that go up each side of the monitor case edge where the metal frame rests on. You can slightly still see the raised circular areas underneath the tape. This solves the 'play' that the monitor screen has within the monitor case, and also pushes the screen closer towards the bezel and closes that ugly gap.


A close up of the above image. The bottom-most red circle on this image is where the metal screen frame rests on. This is where I also added some pieces of electrical tape so the screen would sit higher in the monitor casing. Now, my screen image doesn't getting cut off anymore.


The results. Perfectly centered image and no screen panel rocking back and forth internally



Spoiler: Tape Mod to fix back light bleed



Comprehensive video playlist showing how to do the dismantle the monitor and do the Tape Mod 



. This starts on video 1 of 17. To streamline the process, it is suggested to watch videos 1-5, skip 6-10, watch 11-13. Assembly is in the reverse order.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rushstrike*
> 
> Alright I got mine and found that it has 0 dead pixels however it had a terrible light bleed in the bottom right corner (like my other korean monitors). I tried to use my finger and massaged the area and pushed it and eventually got the light bleed to go away however it causes that same area to be darker than normal. I can use my 2 finger and push on it to make it more uniform.... I knew even if I return this monitor the next one I get would probably have the same light bleed or possible more dead pixels.
> 
> *SOLUTION TO FIX BOTTOM RIGHT LIGHT BLEED*
> After a week I couldn't stand it anymore so I decided to open the thing up to fix it. The monitor indeed is a PLS monitor : http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL02_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_overview_12403.html
> All I did was made sure that the panel sit flush against the frame and added black electrical tape at the bottom right on top of the glass piece around the LED array to make sure there's no light leak. Now my monitor is perfect granted i caused 1 dead pixel in the process.
> 
> *Light bleed gone but still has some annoying dark region*
> 
> *Dark pixels lessen if I push against it*
> 
> *Time to open it up and give it a real fix*
> 
> 
> 
> *No more light bleed or dark region!*






*Current club signup form crashed due to so many signups!*









_Club signature code_







*The Korean PLS Monitor Club*









Code:



Code:


[CENTER]:clock:  [B][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-2560x1440-pls-monitor-club] The Korean PLS Monitor Club[/URL][/B] :clock:[/CENTER]


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## JQuantum

subbed. Waiting on my monitor almost here.

I am home now... opened the monitor, zero dead pixels I can find atm, I think the blacklight bleed is very minimal and I've overclocked it straight to 120Hz (after a driver update). Seems to be working so far. xD very very impressed, happy, and relieved that it works so well.

No modifications yet. PS: 130Hz standard gets some tiny artifacts. Gonna test some more and take some pictures too


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## taiko

Here is my pics ,I just received this today and I bought it from excellentcastle here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-Matte-Screen-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/261201533664?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cd0d31ae0&nma=true&si=0y1sZdChCYjNtxyX0cXjZsj9nWg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Price:
US $297.98
Approximately £195.31

Postage:
US $20.00 (approx. £13.11)

So £208.42 + Paypal fees = 213.89 + 62.51 = £ 276.40

So final bill was £ 276.40 that is including the 62.51 customs charge , overall I cant see any dead pixels and back light bleed aint too bad at all and I cant see much difference from the glossy First FSM-270YV monitor i had before. I am happy with this purchase I just need to overclock it but I will save that for tomorrow.


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## PapaSmurf6768

Signing up! Qnix QX2710 showed up today, here's a picture:
http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/papasmurf6768/media/IMAG0853_zps1a83128d.jpg.html

Gonna try to get some better ones soon, but for now I want to break in my new toy!

Qnix QX2710, Non overclocked (yet), excellentcastle, $304, no known issues (yet)


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## dascth

Thanks for starting this up. Some quick snippet info that might be useful to people and that you can add to your original post:

driver patch method for overclocking and "Automatic - LCD reduced" trick to get 120Hz
the point that changing refresh rate changes monitor gamma
list of most common problems people have: screen play, blacklight bleed/cloud, yellow bleed
how to remove stand (pretty simple, just two screws after you open up case and tip up LCD panel)
force people to learn this difference between DVI-D and Dual Link DVI (is this wishful thinking?)

I'll edit if I think of any more.

Thanks again!

EDIT:
how to adjust tilt pressure (loosen/tighten the same screws you take out to remove stand)
how to get out of test mode (if I ever figure it out







)


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## jdmathew

What do you think of starting and/or maintaining a master list?

It could include any of the following as columns... especially the bold ones.

Username, *Make, Model, Overclocked Hz (if applicable)*, seller, price paid , *Known Issues (ie Pixels, Back light Bleed, Seller communication, etc)*

I think it would answer a TON of questions across the board.

Peace out.


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## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmathew*
> 
> What do you think of starting and/or maintaining a master list?
> 
> It could include any of the following as columns... especially the bold ones.
> 
> Username, *Make, Model, Overclocked Hz (if applicable)*, seller, price paid , *Known Issues (ie Pixels, Back light Bleed, Seller communication, etc)*
> 
> I think it would answer a TON of questions across the board.
> 
> Peace out.


+1 to this, I'll update my post.


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## hamzatm

Fantastic work taking all the good posts and putting it all in one place.

Very well done!

Add me:

hamzatm
QNIX
QX2710
120Hz
dream-seller
$289
No known issues


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## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Fantastic work taking all the good posts and putting it all in one place.
> 
> Very well done!
> 
> Add me:
> 
> hamzatm
> QNIX
> QX2710
> 120Hz
> dream-seller
> $289
> No known issues


Feel free to add yourself, application form is live


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## hamzatm

Oh cool, will do!


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## Microtom

x-star, 1 dead pixel less than 1cm from the right border. Very little bleeding at the bottom right corner. running at 90Hz.


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## cor35vet

Hey, nice for making a PLS club thread.

But can you remove this post of mine?
Quote:


> I have a glossy Qnix QX2710 with the backlight on 145cd/m²
> Here's the calibration profile: http://woabou.eu/files/Qnix%20QX2710.icm
> That was on 96Hz but I don't think it matters.


This one is pretty much the same as the 96Hz colorprofile in the new post.

Rocking a Qnix QX2710 here


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## bhazard451

Added to the member list. Swapped out my 27" IPS Iruns for one QNIX running at 120hz. Better color, blacks, 120hz, and cheaper! These monitors are outstanding values. Too bad they are 8ms panels, as there is some blur to fast movement.


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## HowHardCanItBe

Thread title changed

You can actually change the title - for future reference click the edit thread button


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## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5entinel*
> 
> Thread title changed
> 
> You can actually change the title - for future reference click the edit thread button


Haha oops. Thank you, new to ocn. Nice avatar, im watching some star trek as we speak


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## PapaSmurf6768

Just wanted to post some of my overclocking experiences. I was able to take my monitor up to 96Hz but in games, with Vsync on, I was only getting half that, 48 FPS. When I went to 120Hz, the picture looked fine but the monitor would freeze up and stutter every couple seconds. I used the overclocking tutorial here to patch my drivers but that still didn't work. Turns out that setting Vsync (smooth) in the Nvidia Control Panel was the problem, I set it to just Vsync and now I can get the full frame rate, 120Hz runs without stuttering too. This monitor is looking better and better by the second!


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## King4x4

Three Qnix screens on the way... So subbed!


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## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taiko*
> 
> Here is my pics ,I just received this today and I bought it from excellentcastle


Added you to members list


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## Atomagenesis

Mine is on the way! Subbed ;D


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## CoolGuy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Just wanted to post some of my overclocking experiences. I was able to take my monitor up to 96Hz but in games, with Vsync on, I was only getting half that, 48 FPS. When I went to 120Hz, the picture looked fine but the monitor would freeze up and stutter every couple seconds. I used the overclocking tutorial here to patch my drivers but that still didn't work. Turns out that setting Vsync (smooth) in the Nvidia Control Panel was the problem, I set it to just Vsync and now I can get the full frame rate, 120Hz runs without stuttering too. This monitor is looking better and better by the second!


Are you using both ingame Vsync and nvidia control panel Vsync?


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## Coolio831

Ordering one tomorrow, Tired of these Acer p244w's


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## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> Are you using both ingame Vsync and nvidia control panel Vsync?


I had the control panel set to Vsync, which overrides any of the games settings.


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## bouchnick

This is excessive bleeding right? I'm considering return it to Bigclothcraft. Will he accept it?

This is the X-Star DP2710 btw


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## ski-bum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bouchnick*
> 
> 
> 
> This is excessive bleeding right? I'm considering return it to Bigclothcraft. Will he accept it?
> 
> This is the X-Star DP2710 btw


That's a lot.


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## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bouchnick*
> 
> This is excessive bleeding right? I'm considering return it to Bigclothcraft. Will he accept it?


I would say something to the seller. We all know the risk going into this, but every seller claims to screen them for excessive back light bleed. I deem excessive back light bleed as color-shifting and noticeable effect on most colors


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## PapaSmurf6768

Just plugged in my phone to the built in speakers for the lulz, I was hoping to be able to come in here and tell you all they're not actually that bad, but THEY ARE THAT BAD! Some of the worst things I've ever heard, I'd rather listen through my phone speaker than through the monitor. Oh well, I couldn't care less, I was just hoping I'd get a pleasant surprise. AVOID THESE SPEAKERS LIKE THE PLAGUE!


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## Spartan F8

Mine monitor arrived tonight from BCC. I will play some mad scientist with it when i get off work and let you guys know what happens. BTW i also have a crossover blade edition which has the exact same bezel from what i can tell so i will be doing a side by side









I may even be able to overclock this one and run duplicate display for a while to examine the difference.


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## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Just plugged in my phone to the built in speakers for the lulz, I was hoping to be able to come in here and tell you all they're not actually that bad, but THEY ARE THAT BAD! Some of the worst things I've ever heard, I'd rather listen through my phone speaker than through the monitor. Oh well, I couldn't care less, I was just hoping I'd get a pleasant surprise. AVOID THESE SPEAKERS LIKE THE PLAGUE!


Yes, the speakers leave much (if not everything lol) to be desired... But lets be honest, we are all here for the picture quality. There is probably no monitor that I would be satisfied by using its speakers


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## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Yes, the speakers leave much (if not everything lol) to be desired... But lets be honest, we are all here for the picture quality. There is probably no monitor that I would be satisfied by using its speakers


Yeah the picture's great, that's definitely why we're all here. I noticed you have a nice new sig badge, could you post that in the OP for all us clubbies to put in our signatures?


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## Sunreeper

Subbed


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## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Yeah the picture's great, that's definitely why we're all here. I noticed you have a nice new sig badge, could you post that in the OP for all us clubbies to put in our signatures?


Yea I will throw up the code in the OP


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## Brien

Subbed. I have a question regarding my current monitor and moving over to a PLS monitor.

My current monitor has a 10000:1 Dynamic, 1000:1 Static contrast ratio. The QNIX PLS has a 50000:1 Dynamic, 1000:1 Static contrast ratio.

What does the "extra" 40,000 units in the contrast ratio do for me going from 10k to 50k, and is it something I can notice with the naked eye?


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## d3vour3r

I bought mine last sunday. cant wait for it to arrive. Ill register once it gets in and identify any issues if any. ill also create another thread with a review, unboxing and pics.


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## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brien*
> 
> Subbed. I have a question regarding my current monitor and moving over to a PLS monitor.
> 
> My current monitor has a 10000:1 Dynamic, 1000:1 Static contrast ratio. The QNIX PLS has a 50000:1 Dynamic, 1000:1 Static contrast ratio.
> 
> What does the "extra" 40,000 units in the contrast ratio do for me going from 10k to 50k, and is it something I can notice with the naked eye?


My previous monitor boasted 2 million dynamic contrast ratio, or some high number like that. Coming from that to this, this looks beautiful. Even my friend who has an IPS says it looks good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> I bought mine last sunday. cant wait for it to arrive. Ill register once it gets in and identify any issues if any. ill also create another thread with a review, unboxing and pics.


Thanks. I will link the review in the OP when it goes up


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## Brien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> My previous monitor boasted 2 million dynamic contrast ratio, or some high number like that. Coming from that to this, this looks beautiful. Even my friend who has an IPS says it looks good.
> Thanks. I will link the review in the OP when it goes up


So basically it's irrelevant and not something tangible? I imagine the QNIX will look way better than this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824001280R


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## bhazard451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brien*
> 
> So basically it's irrelevant and not something tangible? I imagine the QNIX will look way better than this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824001280R


Dynamic Contrast is a fake number. Never go by that alone. The real contrast ratio is key.

Yes, this panel blows away that monitor in color accuracy and contrast.


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## FiveofBroats

Hi, all. After reading the previous thread, and after weighing all of the pros and cons, I just ordered this today:

[Pixel Perfect] QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 2560x1440 PLS Monitor - Glossy

Seller: Dream seller

US $324.90

Will let you all know what I see (and will provide pics).

BTW, I'm about to build my first ever PC this Saturday, and will hook up the monitor when I get it (hopefully). So I'm doubly nervous...


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## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveofBroats*
> 
> Hi, all. After reading the previous thread, and after weighing all of the pros and cons, I just ordered this today:
> 
> [Pixel Perfect] QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 2560x1440 PLS Monitor - Glossy
> 
> Seller: Dream seller
> 
> US $324.90
> 
> Will let you all know what I see (and will provide pics).
> 
> BTW, I'm about to build my first ever PC this Saturday, and will hook up the monitor when I get it (hopefully). So I'm doubly nervous...


Pixel perfect for 324, nice deal. Welcome to OCN, and good luck with that PC build

Edit: Added a poll for fun. See what monitor is the most popular


----------



## JQuantum

Might be random/dumb question but has anyone rehoused, by that I mean changed the bezel/mount completely to a new design while removing things like the speaker?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JQuantum*
> 
> Might be random/dumb question but has anyone rehoused, by that I mean changed the bezel/mount completely to a new design while removing things like the speaker?


I was thinking about that yeserday... shouldn't it be possible to place this screen into a major name branded monitor housing? The screen screw holes should be universal


----------



## dascth

@#$!!!







It's not bricked woot !

oh I'm happy











I'm actually typing this on it as you see it in the picture still apart to share the good news.

Check out the "after" pic of my backlight cloudiness.























before:

after:


----------



## King4x4




----------



## taiko

Maybe you should add a poll option for where you are located and how much customs/vat etc you paid ?


----------



## Brien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> @#$!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not bricked woot !
> 
> oh I'm happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm actually typing this on it as you see it in the picture still apart to share the good news.
> 
> Check out the "after" pic of my backlight cloudiness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> before:


What did you do in between the before and after pic?


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brien*
> 
> What did you do in between the before and after pic?


You can see exactly what I did as there's 15 videos up on it. I actually don't know really. Take it apart, put it back together, make sure stuff's lined up. I did add all that electric tape you can see in the videos and you can see the tape's edge in the shot I just took.


----------



## dascth

While it's open, here's the powered pins in both LED modes:

RED: 1.85V drop


BLUE: 2.6V drop


I'm leaving it open and going to make that blue LED dimmer since I probably won't have this thing open again for a while. I'll let you know the resistor value I use. Maybe I should turn it off before I solder it... hmm. : )


----------



## dascth

So, I hate blue LED power lights as they just bug my eyes, especially at night, so I figured I'd lower the brightness AND swap so that LED was red instead of blue when it was powered on. But then I realized the power off state would be the annoying blue, and I don't need an LED on all the time telling me my monitor is off (pet peeve). So, I just disconnected the blue pin (actually it broke off in the process, darn) and routed the red + pin to the pad that's powered when the unit is on. I used a 10Kohm resistor I had left on my table from rebuilding my amp in series with the LED to lower the brightness. I tried a few values but landed on 10Kohm as it was really dim. Notice I also added a bit of electrical tape to insulate the red + pin from the old pad it went into.

So here is the 10Kohm dim red mod:



EDIT: This is pretty dim with the bezel on, so if you don't mind seeing a bit more light, use a smaller resistor, maybe 3Kohm. If you're brave enough to do this, I'd hope you're smart enough to know how to try out different values to find what suits you.


----------



## dascth

Also, notice how much backlight leaks on the bottom-right side. It's not bad on any other corner internally:

Bottom-Right:


Bottom-Left:


As you can also see, my electric tape doesn't stick too well when folded in half and stuck to that metal frame. If you do this, you might want to make it stickier with some glue, or just put it on, attach the bezel, and leave it alone; it'll probably stay put.


----------



## necriss

Can you please post some pics to show exactly where you applied the electrical tape?


----------



## Jinru

dascth, great work on the youtube vids and pics. Would this be considered a universal fix for nearly all backlight bleed issues others might have? I see you and rushstrike are the only 2 brave enough to take their monitors apart as of now and you both got rid of any BLB.

Can anyone with the monitor tell me how long the cord attached to the power brick is?


----------



## defragger

How did you mange to get it out of test mode dascth?


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> dascth, great work on the youtube vids and pics. Would this be considered a universal fix for nearly all backlight bleed issues others might have? I see you and rushstrike are the only 2 brave enough to take their monitors apart as of now and you both got rid of any BLB.
> 
> Can anyone with the monitor tell me how long the cord attached to the power brick is?


Actually I took mine apart aswell I just haven't got a camera expect my ****ty phone one so I didn't take any pictures.
It's a lot longer than the DVI cable for sure








It shouldn't be a problem since you can just get a longer power cord if the one supplied is too short.

@dascth: Have you reattached the front to your monitor?
If you did, have you got back some bleeding? Because mine is still open and maybe I could put that cover back on without getting back any backlight bleed.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> dascth, great work on the youtube vids and pics. Would this be considered a universal fix for nearly all backlight bleed issues others might have? I see you and rushstrike are the only 2 brave enough to take their monitors apart as of now and you both got rid of any BLB.
> 
> Can anyone with the monitor tell me how long the cord attached to the power brick is?


The cord is pretty short. It hangs in the air for me. I'm not home at the moment, but I'll measure it later for ya


----------



## hamzatm

Dismantled mine completely and put it back together because i thought a DVI connection was faulty (strange lines on screen and no image).

Fixed the problem - not sure how exactly, but it works now! No backlight bleed to speak of.

The cable is pretty long, it reaches from my monitor on my desk to the floor pretty easily.


----------



## brokn9

dascth, can you please tell me what was the error that made it loop through test patterns and how did you fix it? My Crossover 27Q is doing the same, and I'd like to know


----------



## bhazard451

I'm going to open it this weekend to fix the backlight bleed on mine. Should be a perfect monitor afterwards.

If you have no dead pixels and just backlight bleed, just open up the bezel and tape. A replacement could always have several dead pixels, or even more bleed.

So happy I had an ebay coupon sitting around while these were $289. $256 total. Best Value Ever.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Can you please post some pics to show exactly where you applied the electrical tape?


Follow the steps in the original post under "wntrsnowg solution to "Panel Play" (a.k.a. screen movement within monitor casing):"


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taiko*
> 
> Maybe you should add a poll option for where you are located and how much customs/vat etc you paid ?


Thank you for the suggestion. IMO, such an option is too subjective since customs/vat varies country to country, and how much the buyer asked the items value to be listed as (sometimes sellers just do this on their own)


----------



## emoose

Got my QNIX today after a painful week of waiting, happy to report no dead pixels







(as far as I can see), sadly theres a little bit of backlight bleed but nothing I can't handle









First thing I did was try overclocking it, but 120Hz gave me flickering lines







119 seemed to work fine (after moving the DVI cable around a bit, interference?)

This wasn't good enough for me though, so after a bit of meddling I managed to get 120Hz working stable, here's how:

Have NVIDIA card (660Ti 3GB here)
Use EVGA pixel clock to OC your monitor to the highest stable pixel clock/framerate you can (try and get the highest pixel clock you can)
Check and make sure theres no skipped frames/flickering/other issues
Use NVIDIA control panel to make a custom 120Hz resolution (the pixel clock it shows should stay the same no matter what you change it to)
Enjoy your 120Hz-on-119Hz-or-lower-pixelclock framerate!
I'm a bit concerned that it might not be true 120Hz though, pretty sure running 120Hz on a pixel clock lower than it should be isn't a good idea... but it works \o/

Now to buy a proper DVI cable to see if that helps...

PS, I bought it from hulustar, £225 with £15 duty, not bad









Edit: hmm, seems I can't adjust the colour on here/use ICC profiles without it getting reset 2 seconds later, might be to do with the pixel clock override







anyone else here had this problem?

Edit2: dang, seems theres still flicker on black







Moving the DVI cable around definitely effects it though, I'll go down to 96 till I can find a decent cable


----------



## CoolGuy90

Set up my X-star DP2710 matte. $300 shipped no tax/fees from bigclothcraft(looks like he is selling them for $286 now). Upon inspection no dead/stuck pixels(phew) and very minor backlight bleeding that is on the bottom left that is not even noticeably unless the screen is black. Bezel to panel fit is tight in all corners expect for the top right which has some play in it but nothing major. The panel sits centered in the bezel though which I heard some people having problems with the panel sitting too low. The base is surprisingly sturdy and does not wobble at all for me. DVI cable is short but pretty thick, I have a longer one on the way.

Monitor runs cool and and has no noticeably buzzing/hissing. AC adapter runs warm but does not get too hot. OSD buttons work but I have not really tickered with them expect for brightness. I have noticed, unless its me and not the monitor, that the left side has a slightly warmer color temp than the right. I may try some calibration profiles. I probably won't overclock for 30 days just in case anything happens to the monitor I can still contact bigclothcraft.





Circled is the backlight bleed, hardly even noticeable. The hues from the corners are the glow that's characteristic of IPS/PLS panels

Gaming in 2560x1440 is going to be amazing!


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Dismantled mine completely and put it back together because i thought a DVI connection was faulty (strange lines on screen and no image).
> 
> Fixed the problem - not sure how exactly, but it works now! No backlight bleed to speak of.
> 
> The cable is pretty long, it reaches from my monitor on my desk to the floor pretty easily.


Exactly what happened to me. I even checked that wires were securely fastened prior to unpluggin/replugging them in to see if I could verify something WAS loose, nothing was. I personally am guessing that the wire-packs aren't the greatest and me moving them around caused them to not carry the high-bandwidth signal with integrity, causing the issue. All I really did was re-position stuff, ensure it was all plugged in inside as expected, and then turned it on while open.

I've since reassembled the whole thing, nothing is caused by the bezel for me. I have plenty to convey, but not a lot of time right now. A couple really important ones:

My cloudiness is caused by high refresh rates. It came back after I set 120Hz. I have thoughts on why for later.
I can seem to affect what we're calling backlight bleed with my finger on my screen. I can make the yellow bottom one appear, and I can also correct it. It seems too easy to affect it, like it's liquid that's moving around easily and that I am pushing with my finger (I use flat edge between knuckles as fingertip puts too much pressure in one spot). I know LCD stands for LIQUID crystal display, so I don't know how some screens like my Pro IPS don't seem affected by tactile pressure and this seems much more so.


----------



## dascth

I know I have some comments to respond to, along with some private messages. I hope to have some time later.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> Set up my X-star DP2710 matte. $300 shipped no tax/fees from bigclothcraft(looks like he is selling them for $286 now). Upon inspection no dead/stuck pixels(phew) and very minor backlight bleeding that is on the bottom left that is not even noticeably unless the screen is black. Bezel to panel fit is tight in all corners expect for the top right which has some play in it but nothing major. The panel sits centered in the bezel though which I heard some people having problems with the panel sitting too low. The base is surprisingly sturdy and does not wobble at all for me. DVI cable is short but pretty thick, I have a longer one on the way.
> 
> Monitor runs cool and and has no noticeably buzzing/hissing. AC adapter runs warm but does not get too hot. OSD buttons work but I have not really tickered with them expect for brightness. I have noticed, unless its me and not the monitor, that the left side has a slightly warmer color temp than the right. I may try some calibration profiles. *I probably won't overclock for 30 days just in case anything happens to the monitor I can still contact bigclothcraft.*


Your logic might be flawed here. No one is ever going to know if you overclock unless you explicitly tell them (this goes for CPUs and GPUs as well), so if anything I would overclock within the 30 days as a sort of "stress test" to make sure your monitor can overclock at all. If you wait the 30 days to overclock and then something goes wrong once you do, you might be out of luck (although I thought that the sellers had a 1 year warranty on all these panels.)


----------



## kakee

its been year those OC 120Hz hit ebay.


----------



## apav

Hey dascth which color profile do you recommend for a glossy QX2710? There's so many of them, I'm just looking for the most accurate calibration for 60hz and 120hz.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Hey dascth which color profile do you recommend for a glossy QX2710? There's so many of them, I'm just looking for the most accurate calibration for 60hz and 120hz.


sry to butt in, but color calibration seems to be specific per panel. There has been much reported variance on what looks good on the monitor it was calibrated on, and then looks off on others. Best advice is to just put 20 minutes aside, download all calibration profiles and test them. There aren't that many, maybe like 8 total?


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> sry to butt in, but color calibration seems to be specific per panel. There has been much reported variance on what looks good on the monitor it was calibrated on, and then looks off on others. Best advice is to just put 20 minutes aside, download all calibration profiles and test them. There aren't that many, maybe like 8 total?


Okay I'll do that then. I assumed that since most of us have the same monitors, it works for everyone. Thanks for your help


----------



## dascth

Even worse news, after mucking around inside my monitor two nights ago, my calibration now doesn't fit (perfectly) for me. I imagine calibrations will vary just as much as back light behavior varies.


----------



## bouchnick

How do you actually fix this kind of bleeding? At the bottom middle.









Thanks to any good people who are willing to help.

*XStar DP2710*


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bouchnick*
> 
> How do you actually fix this kind of bleeding? At the bottom middle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to any good people who are willing to help.
> 
> *XStar DP2710*


I used the top edge of my finger between the two knuckles, swiping across the area as though I was trying to spread it out. Imagine it's butter. That's how I can make it appear/disappear. Mine's really finicky but I can get it to look ok and then I just don't touch it. May help to lay it on it's back while you do it, just don't press hard. If it isn't making any difference, then maybe stop and try some other idea.


----------



## bouchnick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> I used the top edge of my finger between the two knuckles, swiping across the area as though I was trying to spread it out. Imagine it's butter. That's how I can make it appear/disappear. Mine's really finicky but I can get it to look ok and then I just don't touch it. May help to lay it on it's back while you do it, just don't press hard. If it isn't making any difference, then maybe stop and try some other idea.


Really? With your fingers?

I tried it and it doesn't seem to affect anything.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bouchnick*
> 
> Really? With your fingers?
> 
> I tried it and it doesn't seem to affect anything.


Yup. If you have a lot of pressure on the screen from bezel or something, then maybe it won't do squat, but I was really surprised last night to see how much I can make it happen/disappear with just pressure.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Can anyone try and help me with the color profiles? I've downloaded and installed the profiles, then gone into color management to apply it but nothing seems to change when I do, or atleast I can't see it. I've tried a lot of profiles too and still can't notice a difference.

Here's what my color management screen looks like, running Windows 8:


http://imgur.com/92Gy2Yx


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Can anyone try and help me with the color profiles? I've downloaded and installed the profiles, then gone into color management to apply it but nothing seems to change when I do, or atleast I can't see it. I've tried a lot of profiles too and still can't notice a difference.
> 
> Here's what my color management screen looks like, running Windows 8:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/92Gy2Yx


Are you applying that color profile to your Catleap?? If so, looks like you've done it right as it states "default" by the color profile. What I usually do is also add some other random profile from the list that pops up when you click add, that way you can select one, click "Set as Default Profile" and compare to when you do the same for the second profile. You should see your screen change as you toggle between them. If you have a Catleap and a Qnix, you need to select the Qnix one from the top dropdown menu.


----------



## halodude23

I just set up Triple QNIX Q2710s. A bit of a pain in the ass, but I got everything done with DL-DVI adapters







!!!


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bouchnick*
> 
> Really? With your fingers?
> 
> I tried it and it doesn't seem to affect anything.


Oh, and it's entirely possible that me completely dismantling my LCD panel assembly and re-assembling it has something to do with the ease with which I can modify it with my finger. Maybe panels are meant to "settle" over time and eventually all the component layers become fairly fixed in place. If that's the case then people with bad backlight bleed got monitors with the various layers of their panel with some gap variations that introduce this bleed. I can make yellow bleed appear and disappear at the bottom of my screen with just my finger edge swiping across it.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> I just set up Triple QNIX Q2710s. A bit of a pain in the ass, but I got everything done with DL-DVI adapters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!


That's insane! How are they mounted? Man, 4320x2560 is quite the resolution









I'm really really interested if you can tell the difference between them with the same calibration. Load up some reference photo on all three and use your keenest eyes to try to see how close 3 different monitors are in color representation. My bet is that they're different somewhat.


----------



## zhoulander

I feel like there is a touch more pixel persistence on the QNIX @ 120Hz vs my Yamakasi 2B @ 120Hz.

Also my QNIX had a really bad red tint, but otherwise looks flawless. I can correct it using a monitor profile (eyeballing it), but then my mouse cursor doesn't have the profile applied to it unless I enable mouse trails (ICK!).

After the eyeball calibration (probably very off), my 2B looks quite yellow


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> I just set up Triple QNIX Q2710s. A bit of a pain in the ass, but I got everything done with DL-DVI adapters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> That's insane! How are they mounted? Man, 4320x2560 is quite the resolution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really really interested if you can tell the difference between them with the same calibration. Load up some reference photo on all three and use your keenest eyes to try to see how close 3 different monitors are in color representation. My bet is that they're different somewhat.


It's mounted with an Ergotech Triple Horizontal LCD Monitor Arm Desk Stand.
http://www.amazon.com/Ergotech-Triple-Horizontal-Monitor-100-D16-B03/dp/B001NPEC5A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1366759544&sr=1-3&keywords=Ergotron+Triple+Display+Stand

At the moment, I don't have time to calibrate it, but I will do it in a few days and post results. Having all three is a bit too bright for me, so I turned down the brightness to pretty low levels and it may appear in the picture as they are uneven. The only monitor that has a bit of backlight bleed is the middle one when viewing dark areas. It's freaking crazy how almost none of them have any visible dead pixels except for the one with the exception of one!! All these were purchased from ExcellentCastle so I highly commend him for doing such a great job.








Also, I followed your debezeling guide and I took off the stand for one of them. It's an extremely useful guide!


----------



## bouchnick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Oh, and it's entirely possible that me completely dismantling my LCD panel assembly and re-assembling it has something to do with the ease with which I can modify it with my finger. Maybe panels are meant to "settle" over time and eventually all the component layers become fairly fixed in place. If that's the case then people with bad backlight bleed got monitors with the various layers of their panel with some gap variations that introduce this bleed. I can make yellow bleed appear and disappear at the bottom of my screen with just my finger edge swiping across it.


So I can't really fix it by opening it?


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Are you applying that color profile to your Catleap?? If so, looks like you've done it right as it states "default" by the color profile. What I usually do is also add some other random profile from the list that pops up when you click add, that way you can select one, click "Set as Default Profile" and compare to when you do the same for the second profile. You should see your screen change as you toggle between them. If you have a Catleap and a Qnix, you need to select the Qnix one from the top dropdown menu.


I followed an overclocking guide that had me install a hacked Catleap driver for the monitor, it is in fact a QX2710 though. This guide is what I followed. I'll keep playing around with it.


----------



## FiveofBroats

Thank you, I am happy to be here, and to finally leave console gaming behind.

Here is an update on my purchase; received this email from dream-seller:

Hi, thank you very much for your purchase.
This email is to inform you of
the delay of the new batch of screens.
Now it's scheduled to come in on
25th Thursday, Korean time.
After testing the monitor we expect to be able
to ship out your order right that day.
I sincerely apologize for causing
you inconvenience. I wish for your kind understanding.
Please feel free to
contact us if you have any inquiries.
Warm Regards.

-dream-seller

BALLS...gotta wait till next week.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveofBroats*
> 
> Thank you, I am happy to be here, and to finally leave console gaming behind.
> 
> Here is an update on my purchase; received this email from dream-seller:
> 
> Hi, thank you very much for your purchase.
> This email is to inform you of
> the delay of the new batch of screens.
> Now it's scheduled to come in on
> 25th Thursday, Korean time.
> After testing the monitor we expect to be able
> to ship out your order right that day.
> I sincerely apologize for causing
> you inconvenience. I wish for your kind understanding.
> Please feel free to
> contact us if you have any inquiries.
> Warm Regards.
> 
> -dream-seller
> 
> BALLS...gotta wait till next week.


I hope by "NEW BATCH," they don't mean non-overclockable monitors....... I'm pretty sure everyone remembers the catleaps 2B, 2C, 2D models....?


----------



## JQuantum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I was thinking about that yeserday... shouldn't it be possible to place this screen into a major name branded monitor housing? The screen screw holes should be universal


Well regardless first thing first is making sure the monitor works right


----------



## shinikaru

I have been looking for a 120hz capable 1440p IPS/equivalent for months now, decided not to get a Catleap and wait for something nicer that isn't going to buzz...

Finally a few weeks ago I noticed these, and got an account here specifically because of the thread on this monitor. (I've just been punching "QX2710" into google to get here







I can be glad to be a part of the club with my first post here - ordered pixel perfect from dream seller 4-18, recieved 4-22. No dead pixels, minor bleed, and running without issues at 96hz.

I'm having a problem where my screen's vertical position is several pixels off - worse on the left side than the right, so my screen is actually unnoticeabley crooked as well as having some pixels cut off on the bottom of the screen. I can't fix this in the nvidia panel as it's not a VGA monitor.

Maybe I will open it up to correct everything, unless someone has another idea.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinikaru*
> 
> I have been looking for a 120hz capable 1440p IPS/equivalent for months now, decided not to get a Catleap and wait for something nicer that isn't going to buzz...
> 
> Finally a few weeks ago I noticed these, and got an account here specifically because of the thread on this monitor. (I've just been punching "QX2710" into google to get here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can be glad to be a part of the club with my first post here - ordered pixel perfect from dream seller 4-18, recieved 4-22. No dead pixels, minor bleed, and running without issues at 96hz.
> 
> I'm having a problem where my screen's vertical position is several pixels off - worse on the left side than the right, so my screen is actually unnoticeabley crooked as well as having some pixels cut off on the bottom of the screen. I can't fix this in the nvidia panel as it's not a VGA monitor.
> 
> Maybe I will open it up to correct everything, unless someone has another idea.


Welcome to OCN! Many new users around here, so you're right at home.

As far as the monitor being vertically off, I had the same problem. Go to the first post and look for the "wntrsnowg mod" solution to fixing panel play (and also screen centering)


----------



## FiveofBroats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> I hope by "NEW BATCH," they don't mean non-overclockable monitors....... I'm pretty sure everyone remembers the catleaps 2B, 2C, 2D models....?


Awww ****! Things are looking up.









HI, thank you for kindly understanding. But please disregard the last
message. It was sent by mistake. ?The message was meant for purchasers of
standard pixel monitors. Yours is pixel perfect and shipped out yesterday.
Your fedex tracking number is . Thank you.

-dream-seller


----------



## dascth

Anyone else having their computers reboot often, especially a minute or so after system resume after hacking up their drivers to support higher refresh rates. I could be unrelated, but it would just be a big coincidence in timing given it started right afterwards.

Also, I'll come back to my machine sometimes and notice the calibration is off and look at the Color Management window and see that the QX2710 is missing so I can't change my calibration without rebooting.







When it's in this state, the system's screen resolution control panel looks like this for it:



Notice I can't change (without rebooting) the monitor's "driver" as it's grayed out:


----------



## apav

Anyone else hear a constant buzzing sound with their QNIX? With my Catleap I could only hear it on bright white pages, now I can pretty much hear it at any time when my house is quiet.

Edit: Okay it's noisier when it's past 100hz, at regular 60hz I can barely hear it anymore. Is that a normal occurrence with you guys?


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defragger*
> 
> How did you mange to get it out of test mode dascth?


Not sure if you caught it from before, but I'm not really sure what I did. Opening it up again and just poking around made it work. Who knows. I was guessing maybe routing of wires inside.


----------



## jacer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Anyone else hear a constant buzzing sound with their QNIX? With my Catleap I could only hear it on bright white pages, now I can pretty much hear it at any time when my house is quiet.
> 
> Edit: Okay it's noisier when it's past 100hz, at regular 60hz I can barely hear it anymore. Is that a normal occurrence with you guys?


happens on mine too. Seems to come from the speakers. I posted more details about my experience with the buzzing in the overclock thread. But long story short, unplug your speakers and no more buzzing.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacer*
> 
> happens on mine too. Seems to come from the speakers. I posted more details about my experience with the buzzing in the overclock thread. But long story short, unplug your speakers and no more buzzing.


I use Logitech Speakers. I guess you mean I have to open the monitor up to unplug it right? Turning the volume all the way down on the computer's speakers won't do it?


----------



## dascth

If someone who uses high refresh rates has a moment, could you do this test and see if you see what I see?

Below is a small video file of 40% gray, play it full screen at 60Hz and then again at the highest refresh rate you use. Do you see any difference in the UNIFORMITY of the screen. That is, I don't care if the gray changes shade a bit, that's expected as the gamma shifts at higher rates, but mine gets funny stuff standing out if I use higher refresh rates as seen below:

Video:

40% Gray.zip 18k .zip file


60Hz


120Hz


This isn't backlight bleed, but the inability for some pixel regions to respond at the same speed at these higher rates (or so I guess).


----------



## mrsus

anyone else notice some burn in on the edge of the screen ?


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> If someone who uses high refresh rates has a moment, could you do this test and see if you see what I see?
> 
> Below is a small video file of 40% gray, play it full screen at 60Hz and then again at the highest refresh rate you use. Do you see any difference in the UNIFORMITY of the screen. That is, I don't care if the gray changes shade a bit, that's expected as the gamma shifts at higher rates, but mine gets funny stuff standing out if I use higher refresh rates as seen below:
> 
> Video:
> 
> 40% Gray.zip 18k .zip file
> 
> 
> 60Hz
> 
> 
> 120Hz
> 
> 
> This isn't backlight bleed, but the inability for some pixel regions to respond at the same speed at these higher rates (or so I guess).


I will test this on all 3 of mine later and I just wanted to note a few things I've found while debezeling.

#1. I believe that there's a "void warranty sticker" on the right bottom of the monitor.
#2. The colorful data cable that attaches onto the monitor had some tape on it but I removed it. I hope it didn't affect anything.
#3. The stand is extremely to remove, thanks to your guide


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> I will test this on all 3 of mine later and I just wanted to note a few things I've found while debezeling.
> 
> #1. I believe that there's a "void warranty sticker" on the right bottom of the monitor.
> #2. The colorful data cable that attaches onto the monitor had some tape on it but I removed it. I hope it didn't affect anything.
> #3. The stand is extremely to remove, thanks to your guide


I don't remember seeing a "void warranty" sticker, maybe you could describe its location or take a picture?

The tape is to keep the data cable securely inserted into its socket. Given my problem with test mode due to corrupted video data, I'd say anything that can help prevent it is good. I'm sure it's fine the way it is, but if it freaks out on you, just open it up and ensure it's plugged in and the tape is applied.

I'm glad people are getting use out of my potentially stupid dismantling job. I'm still surprised I wasn't left with a lot of dust in my screen. I carefully wiped it with a microfiber cloth before reassembling the LCD panel itself, but was sure I'd be kicking myself about now after staring at dust all day. Glad it worked out and I got some good videos out of it!


----------



## Zoxc

I got the X-Star DP2710 today. It has a cluster of bad subpixels in the top left corner. They are barely noticeable in the 100% (on) state and not at all in the 0% (off) state. However they are quite visible in between these states.

Bad subpixels 590k .JPG file


It does overclock to 120 Hz although I haven't verified that frames haven't been dropped. It also increased gamma to some point above 3, which isn't very nice. 96 Hz landed on gamma 2.5. Does anyone know if overclocking the IPS models result in this shift in gamma?

I also noticed that it uses temporal dithering, which is clearly visible on lower refresh rates (like 24 Hz). So the panels are probably 6-bit.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zoxc*
> 
> I got the X-Star DP2710 today. It has a cluster of bad subpixels in the top left corner. They are barely noticeable in the 100% (on) state and not at all in the 0% (off) state. However they are quite visible in between these states.
> 
> Bad subpixels 590k .JPG file
> 
> 
> It does overclock to 120 Hz although I haven't verified that frames haven't been dropped. It also increased gamma to some point above 3, which isn't very nice. 96 Hz landed on gamma 2.5. Does anyone know if overclocking the IPS models result in this shift in gamma?
> 
> I also noticed that it uses temporal dithering, which is clearly visible on lower refresh rates (like 24 Hz). So the panels are probably 6-bit.


I've made some color profiles, aswell one for 120 Hz. You can try it out and see if it's better with that.
You can find them in the OP post, aswell with profiles from other users.

And a 6 bit PLS panel? No, I don't think anyone would do that kind of crap.
Banding would be terrible on such a panel, though you said something about dithering?
The EDID says it's 8 bit per color, why would the panel use 6 bit then and throw away 2560*1440*4*2 bits per refresh? (I don't know wether there's some kind of compression on that data)

About your issue: You could try out: http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html


----------



## Zoxc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> I've made some color profiles, aswell one for 120 Hz. You can try it out and see if it's better with that.
> You can find them in the OP post, aswell with profiles from other users.


I have a Spyder 3 so I can correct for it. It does however result in increased posterization. I also got decreased uniformity on higher refresh rates like dascth depicted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> And a 6 bit PLS panel? No, I don't think anyone would do that kind of crap.
> Banding would be terrible on such a panel, though you said something about dithering?
> The EDID says it's 8 bit per color, why would the panel use 6 bit then and throw away 2560*1440*4*2 bits per refresh? (I don't know wether there's some kind of compression on that data)


6-bit panels + dithering is quite common: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/news_archive/23.htm#colour_depths
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> About your issue: You could try out: http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html


Probably won't hurt to try...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zoxc*
> 
> I have a Spyder 3 so I can correct for it. It does however result in increased posterization. I also got decreased uniformity on higher refresh rates like dascth depicted.
> 6-bit panels + dithering is quite common: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/news_archive/23.htm#colour_depths
> Probably won't hurt to try...


Temporal dithering isn't limited to 6 bit panels.

That being said, the PLS panel used (LTM270DL02) is a true 8 bit panel.


----------



## Jboss

So the general consensus is to buy this monitor right? It's definitely well worth the $290? I'm still in between of getting it or not.

Thanks!


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> So the general consensus is to buy this monitor right? It's definitely well worth the $290? I'm still in between of getting it or not.
> 
> Thanks!


It's definitely worth buying right now before the prices hit in the 400-500$ range.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> It's definitely worth buying right now before the prices hit in the 400-500$ range.


I have another question if you don't mind, there are multiple sellers for these monitor as we all can see. It seems like dream-seller has the most reports of being able to OC at 120 hz, this should be irrelevant since everyone is selling the same monitor right and that it's luck of the draw if your panel OC's to 120 hz or not right?

Cheers







!


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> I have another question if you don't mind, there are multiple sellers for these monitor as we all can see. It seems like dream-seller has the most reports of being able to OC at 120 hz, this should be irrelevant since everyone is selling the same monitor right and that it's luck of the draw if your panel OC's to 120 hz or not right?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


It's definitely based on luck, whether you can hit 120 hz or not. The DL-DVI cable they supply might be a detriment so I highly recommend getting a high quality one from Monoprice.
There's the 28 AWG cable which is more flexible and there's also the 24 AWG which is more rigid and solid. Frankly speaking, it's totally up to you what you want.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209

I think all the sellers have been great so far but DreamSeller has been mysteriously getting reports of not sending monitors or replying back to PMs so I'm not sure. My seller was ExcellentCastle and I received 2/3 excellent monitors with about 1 dead pixel and backlight bleeding that I can deal with


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> It's definitely based on luck, whether you can hit 120 hz or not. The DL-DVI cable they supply might be a detriment so I highly recommend getting a high quality one from Monoprice.
> There's the 28 AWG cable which is more flexible and there's also the 24 AWG which is more rigid and solid. Frankly speaking, it's totally up to you what you want.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209
> 
> I think all the sellers have been great so far but DreamSeller has been mysteriously getting reports of not sending monitors or replying back to PMs so I'm not sure. My seller was ExcellentCastle and I received 2/3 excellent monitors with about 1 dead pixel and backlight bleeding that I can deal with


Thank you very much!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> I have another question if you don't mind, there are multiple sellers for these monitor as we all can see. It seems like dream-seller has the most reports of being able to OC at 120 hz, this should be irrelevant since everyone is selling the same monitor right and that it's luck of the draw if your panel OC's to 120 hz or not right?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Based off the data given, probability speaking it looks like dream-seller panels have a higher chance to OC to 120 Hz. However, that is just based on the data which has been reported here (quite limited). A much greater amount of people are buying these monitors and not reporting here, so if anything I think that the current data just shows that more people are buying from deam-seller and OC'ing then posting here.

So just to be clear, I don't think the data reported here (members who have signed up and reported to buy from dream-seller) is conclusive enough at this time to clearly state that dream-seller panels have the best chance of OC. Maybe once more people report in after their purchase we can get a clearer answer. Sorry if that was confusing


----------



## Spartan F8

Ok so here it goes.

I bought my monitor from BCC last thrusday. I got it monday which is very good over the weekend (i quite frankly expected tuesday). I have a crossover blade which i can confirm is the identical bezel/housing. After setting it up for the first time i did indeed have to push the power button which is a little odd as the LED light status is reversed between it and the crossover. I can confirm that the bios does show and looks fine. after at the desktop i can confirm this is a bit yellow at stock colors. After applying the 120hz color profile in this thread it looked WAY better but i still had to adjust the grey scale to get rid of some red effect. using an all white screen i found 1 dead pixel at the very bottom of the screen(i will never see it). Using all white i have no clouding at 60hz. Using an all black screen there is absolutely no back-light bleed at all. I mean i have Asus monitors that make this look like heaven for Backlight bleed.

Now time to start OC.

I first applied the pixel patch from toasty to unleash the SLI GTX570s i have. Then i put it into test mode and removed the watermark via the tool found on the overclocking thread for this monitor. I went for broke and set it to 120hz using CRU and







all artifacts. I then changed CRU to use LCD reduced. Still got artifacts. Then my last chance was using the stock cable and BAM 120hz no problems at all. I was using a 28 gauge cable from monoprice just to let everyone know it is definitely worth trying teh stock cable. I did have a significant reduction in brightness and color accuracy at 120hz so i then applied the 120hz icc profile listed here. This helped a LOT but i still had to do some color management to get rid of some yellowing effects. I also did a refresh rate multitool test and can see no dropped frames. For comparison i set my crossover to 70hz and did the same test and really it is quite easy to see dropped frames with this tool (if you can manage to look at the screen without getting sick). If you really want to test the 120hz vs 60hz open up a window with the option "show window contents while dragged" on and sling it all over the screen on teh 120hz then do it at 60hz you will know

Now time to Game

So at first try no games i have would use the darn 120hz and sit at 60hz constantly. I then found the custom driver people used for the catleap 2Bs and manually forced the monitor to use this driver. This solved EVERYTHING with games. Every game uses the screen refresh rate now. I also can tell everyone that nvidia's "smooth" vsync caused issues and you should definitely try just turning vsync on. You also want to make sure in game vsync is turned off as it sometimes will push it back to 60hz. Games at 120hz are exactly what you would expect MEGA smooth and motion blur is almost none existent for me. I tried several benchmarking programs such as 3dmark vantage, crysis physx, etc and i can say the input lag is very good compared to other monitors with scalers. Your really not going to do much better without a 2ms response time with no scaler. I hardest part now is getting 120fps consistently even with 2 GTX570s it takes some horsepower to do.

Now time for videos

I use MPC-HC with LAV and madvr for all my videos. I can tell a huge difference in playback smoothness with 120hz. The motion just seems clearer when things are moving fast and in scenes where there is a close-ups of people talking. the quality of the color and sharpness is comparable to the crossover but i think the IPS display is a bit better at brighter colors (may just be me or the brightness scale). I did test video playback refresh with FRAPS and it states 120hz constantly.

To sum it up

These monitors are the best thing since the 2Bs period. Just the mouse movement on the screen is greatly noticeable. the colors are outstanding (after calibration). The 120hz with some effort is not only possible but from all the reading all the posts here is likely(not guaranteed) if you use the correct combination of settings. The quality comparison with the crossover blade IPS panel is easily matched with adjustments and (something i left out) the blacks are WAY better. This is the best monitor i have ever owned and i now have a crossover blade for sale At 300 it is more than worth it and makes me feel like i almost stole it.







.

When push comes to shove the only thing for this monitor to do now is pass the test of time


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taiko*
> 
> Maybe you should add a poll option for where you are located and how much customs/vat etc you paid ?


Added to the OP
"VAT, Fees, Taxes by Country:"


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Based off the data given, probability speaking it looks like dream-seller panels have a higher chance to OC to 120 Hz. However, that is just based on the data which has been reported here (quite limited). A much greater amount of people are buying these monitors and not reporting here, so if anything I think that the current data just shows that more people are buying from deam-seller and OC'ing then posting here.
> 
> So just to be clear, I don't think the data reported here (members who have signed up and reported to buy from dream-seller) is conclusive enough at this time to clearly state that dream-seller panels have the best chance of OC. Maybe once more people report in after their purchase we can get a clearer answer. Sorry if that was confusing


The thing is it'll be to late once we have a proper amount of reports to see which buyer/panel is the best to get because prices might go up!?


----------



## Jinru

I just purchased a Matte QNIX from hulustar. I wanted to get in on his "Limited Event 0-2 defect pixels" before it was too late. Fingers crosses on a PP!

I think the chances of getting 120hz is entirely random. Only reason more people are reporting OC's from dream-seller is because most people are probably buying from him since he's the lowest priced QNIX monitor for sale at the moment.

edit: I can add Square Trade after I've made my order, correct? How long of a window do I have to register the monitor to SQ?


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Ok so here it goes.
> 
> Then my last chance was using the stock cable and BAM 120hz no problems at all. I was using a 28 gauge cable from monoprice just to let everyone know it is definitely worth trying teh stock cable.


I got 120Hz first try using LCD reduce with my monoprice 24 gauge 10' cable, so spread the word to go with the thicker cable if you want to try 120Hz.

Any clouding at 120Hz?


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Now time to Game
> 
> So at first try no games i have would use the darn 120hz and sit at 60hz constantly. I then found the custom driver people used for the catleap 2Bs and manually forced the monitor to use this driver. This solved EVERYTHING with games. Every game uses the screen refresh rate now. I also can tell everyone that nvidia's "smooth" vsync caused issues and you should definitely try just turning vsync on. You also want to make sure in game vsync is turned off as it sometimes will push it back to 60hz. Games at 120hz are exactly what you would expect MEGA smooth and motion blur is almost none existent for me. I tried several benchmarking programs such as 3dmark vantage, crysis physx, etc and i can say the input lag is very good compared to other monitors with scalers. Your really not going to do much better without a 2ms response time with no scaler. I hardest part now is getting 120fps consistently even with 2 GTX570s it takes some horsepower to do.


You and I had the EXACT same overclocking experience, except for the fact I have SLI 670s. I thought it was weird how smooth v-sync caused a problem, I have it set to adaptive now and all is well. If you guys are wondering how to overclock this monitor with SLI, follow these steps!


----------



## Atomagenesis

Can we get, or can someone PM me, a compiled list of all these tools/drivers/CCC profiles?

It would be much appreciated, I've never OC'd a monitor before.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bouchnick*
> 
> Really? With your fingers?
> 
> I tried it and it doesn't seem to affect anything.


Oh, and I was doing it in a pitch black room with a completely black image on the screen. It was a 2 steps forward 1 step back sorta thing for me, so once I got it decent I was afraid to do much more as it was easy to make it look worse. I probably am not going to touch it now, but if it does get screwed up, I'll video me changing it for y'all to see. I also found it interesting that i actually affected how black black was for me. Seemed that swiping from right to left "spread" a blackness while the inverse brightened it. Wish I'd have video'd it.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> Can we get, or can someone PM me, a compiled list of all these tools/drivers/CCC profiles?
> 
> It would be much appreciated, I've never OC'd a monitor before.


Original post on this thread has the instructions. All you need is what it lists. The "profiles" it tells you to create are in the CRU program. You will need to create these yourself based on which refresh rate you want. If you run into a problem or question, definitely let us know and we could update our link or add our own instructions instead of linking to others' comments.


----------



## halodude23

I just wanted to let everyone know, I tested out all three of the monitors and I came to a conclusion that all of mine can go above 110 Hz with LCD Reduced.
Here are my results:

*Test Monitor #1*
Primary Settings:
LCD Standard
120 Hz

Primary Results:
Had some minor scan lines near the center.

Secondary Settings:
LCD Reduced
120 Hz

Secondary Results:
Scan lines completely gone.

I hit 130 Hz, but there's scan lines on my screen and I went back to 125 hz without any problems, however, the screen is still darker than usual. Everything works fine in Left 4 Dead 2.

*Test Monitor #2*
Primary Settings:
LCD Standard
120 hz

Primary Results:
Lots of scan lines and the screen shakes.

Secondary Settings:
LCD Reduced
115 Hz

Secondary Results:
Runs perfectly fine with no more scan lines or any problems.

Third Settings:
LCD Reduced
120 Hz

Third Results: Scan lines visible

*Test Monitor #3
*
Primary Settings:
LCD Standard
120 Hz

Results: One scan line on the left corner of my screen but that's the only scan line there is. During Left 4 Dead 2, there are some reoccuring scan lines, but they go away after a few seconds and reappear every 20 or so seconds.

Secondary Settings:
LCD Reduced
120 Hz

Secondary Results:
No more scan lines or any problems.

Third Settings:
LCD Reduced
125 Hz

Third Results:
Absolutely no problems.

Fourth Settings:

LCD Reduced
130 Hz

Fourth Results:
Scan lines but the screen does not shake.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> I just wanted to let everyone know, I tested out all three of the monitors and I came to a conclusion that all of mine can go above 110 Hz with LCD Reduced.
> Here are my results:


What cable(s) did you use? Specifically what were the gauges, lengths, and manufacturer?


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> What cable(s) did you use? Specifically what were the gauges, lengths, and manufacturer?


It was the MonoPrice 10 FT 28 AWG Cables.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2759&seq=1&format=2


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> It was the MonoPrice 10 FT 28 AWG Cables.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2759&seq=1&format=2


Interesting, so my monoprice 10FT 24 AWG cables work at 120Hz, so do your 28 AWG ones (mostly, did you try swapping your cables on the one that didn't do as well?), but one person mentioned theirs failed with the monoprice 28 AWG cable. I was hoping it was as simple as using the 24 AWG cable, looks like it might be just dependent on the monitor.

I wonder if its the actual chips on the board that are crapping out at higher refresh rates for some (lower binned parts?) or if it's wire/shielding or soldering joints. You might be able to "fix" one if it's the later.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Interesting, so my monoprice 10FT 24 AWG cables work at 120Hz, so do your 28 AWG ones (mostly, did you try swapping your cables on the one that didn't do as well?), but one person mentioned theirs failed with the monoprice 28 AWG cable. I was hoping it was as simple as using the 24 AWG cable, looks like it might be just dependent on the monitor.
> 
> I wonder if its the actual chips on the board that are crapping out at higher refresh rates for some (lower binned parts?) or if it's wire/shielding or soldering joints. You might be able to "fix" one if it's the later.


Well, I have to note a minor problem with the cables compatibility with the monitors. I absolutely cannot tighten the screws on the DL-DVI cables onto monitor itself. It simply won't go in and I feel as if the MonoPrice cables are too big for the monitors holes so my DVI cables are basically just dangling in mid air and I'm praying they don't fall off. However, the ones that came with my Planar SA2311W fit perfectly.

I will test other DL-DVI cables on my monitors if you think that's necessary









I'm starting to think it's the boards that are crapping out because my monitor becomes dark after OCING a bit. I guess we'll find out later why the monitors dim after being overclocked

Also, if you want me to do a comparison against my 120 Hz TN PLANAR SA2311W, let me know


----------



## bwadding

hi,

i was wondering if anyone knows of a low profile video card that will support 2 dual-link dvi connections and 2 of the QNIX monitors? i see a lot of full height ones...

ty!

bill,


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bwadding*
> 
> hi,
> 
> i was wondering if anyone knows of a low profile video card that will support 2 dual-link dvi connections and 2 of the QNIX monitors? i see a lot of full height ones...
> 
> ty!
> 
> bill,


I don't think you will ever find a low profile card that can support 2 QNIX monitors without lag.......


----------



## Spartan F8

I know this has been posted on overclock before but for those who did not see it and have not spent hundreds of dollars on a professional color calibrator.

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

This site has the best test for color calibration IF the predefined profiles do not work for you.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> Well, I have to note a minor problem with the cables compatibility with the monitors. I absolutely cannot tighten the screws on the DL-DVI cables onto monitor itself. It simply won't go in and I feel as if the MonoPrice cables are too big for the monitors holes so my DVI cables are basically just dangling in mid air and I'm praying they don't fall off. However, the ones that came with my Planar SA2311W fit perfectly.
> 
> I will test other DL-DVI cables on my monitors if you think that's necessary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting to think it's the boards that are crapping out because my monitor becomes dark after OCING a bit. I guess we'll find out later why the monitors dim after being overclocked
> 
> Also, if you want me to do a comparison against my 120 Hz TN PLANAR SA2311W, let me know


I believe the darkening of the image is directly related to the increased switching speeds of each pixel "window". If it takes a certain amount of time to open or close the window, then the more times you do it per second, the less time is left in each transition where it is fully open with light coming through. I don't believe you see much difference when changing between lower rates as the pixel transition time is such a smaller fraction of the total period.

This could all be BS but I've been thinking about this the past couple of days and it's the only thing I've come up with so far. It just reminded me of how the more you divide up a camera's image sensor into more pixels, the less surface area you have collecting light because so much more of it is the boundaries between pixels. In the monitor case it wouldn't be surface area, but time that is being divided up more.

Anyone else have thoughts on this?


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> I will test other DL-DVI cables on my monitors if you think that's necessary


I was more curious if you swapped the three cables around in a different arrangement and if the 120Hz abilities followed monitors or cables.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> I was more curious if you swapped the three cables around in a different arrangement and if the 120Hz abilities followed monitors or cables.


I have not tested it, but I will do so in the next hour or so and as for that theory you came up with. I really don't know much about cameras so I can't say. Maybe someone else has some insight on this


----------



## Strileckifunk

Just ordered my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll tonight (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321099912197?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649). Will post pictures, impressions, and such when it arrives


----------



## zhoulander

Gamma shift @ 120Hz is too much for my liking. I dropped down to 100Hz and it's much more 'normal' looking.

IMO these are not as well rounded as Catleap 2Bs, but given that these are readily available and can OC to 96Hz these are the next best thing.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I know this has been posted on overclock before but for those who did not see it and have not spent hundreds of dollars on a professional color calibrator.
> 
> http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
> 
> This site has the best test for color calibration IF the predefined profiles do not work for you.


Thanks. added that to the OP under color calibration


----------



## zhoulander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> If someone who uses high refresh rates has a moment, could you do this test and see if you see what I see?
> 
> Below is a small video file of 40% gray, play it full screen at 60Hz and then again at the highest refresh rate you use. Do you see any difference in the UNIFORMITY of the screen. That is, I don't care if the gray changes shade a bit, that's expected as the gamma shifts at higher rates, but mine gets funny stuff standing out if I use higher refresh rates as seen below:
> 
> This isn't backlight bleed, but the inability for some pixel regions to respond at the same speed at these higher rates (or so I guess).


Slightly underexposed @ 60Hz to exaggerate uniformity. All taken at same shutter speed/fstop/iso.

40% gray 60Hz


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







40% gray 100Hz


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







40% gray 120Hz


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> I was more curious if you swapped the three cables around in a different arrangement and if the 120Hz abilities followed monitors or cables.


Anyways, I haven't really tested it much but I tried another cable on one of the monitors and there doesn't really seem to be much of a difference. I'm really assuming it's the monitors itself that aren't capable of going any higher.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> It was the MonoPrice 10 FT 28 AWG Cables.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2759&seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting, so my monoprice 10FT 24 AWG cables work at 120Hz, so do your 28 AWG ones (mostly, did you try swapping your cables on the one that didn't do as well?), but one person mentioned theirs failed with the monoprice 28 AWG cable. I was hoping it was as simple as using the 24 AWG cable, looks like it might be just dependent on the monitor.
> 
> I wonder if its the actual chips on the board that are crapping out at higher refresh rates for some (lower binned parts?) or if it's wire/shielding or soldering joints. You might be able to "fix" one if it's the later.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I was getting scan lines at 120Hz with the stock cable so I just purchased the Monoprice 24AWG DVI cable. I went with a 24 over 28 because the cable is thicker I thought it may be a better overclocker. Hopefully that will get rid of the scan lines! I hope that the cable will make a difference, and it's not the monitor.

Also is there any way to get rid of a green stuck pixel? I tried UDPixel, I tried pushing on it, but it still won't go away.









Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zhoulander*
> 
> Gamma shift @ 120Hz is too much for my liking. I dropped down to 100Hz and it's much more 'normal' looking.
> 
> IMO these are not as well rounded as Catleap 2Bs, but given that these are readily available and can OC to 96Hz these are the next best thing.


I wouldn't use one of these even at 96Hz without using a calibration (many available here) as the gamma is just too far off. It's insanely far off anywhere from 100Hz and up. I suggest you try out a cal and then tweak to your liking.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Also is there any way to get rid of a green stuck pixel? I tried UDPixel, I tried pushing on it, but it still won't go away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2


Probably not. I have one as well.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zhoulander*
> 
> Slightly underexposed @ 60Hz to exaggerate uniformity. All taken at same shutter speed/fstop/iso.


Looks like it's fairly prevalent then. Can anyone post pictures like this that DOESN'T show uniformity changes at higher refresh rates? And if so, can I have the CRU profile values you used?


----------



## halodude23

I just wanted to post some photos of triple QNIX's at gaming........


----------



## zhoulander

I'm planning on getting an i1Pro or Spyder4 Pro to calibrate better.

BTW, hulustar just replied that they still have 'event monitor' -- the first 100 pixel perfect glossy/matte.

@halodude, damn, jelly here! Have you tried overlapping bezels to reduce the gap? The bezel on this thing is almost as big as on the Catleaps


----------



## dascth

halodude23, that is just sick. You can actually justify some serious multi-GPU horsepower, unlike most people.


----------



## dascth

Finally added descriptions to all my dismantling videos (threw one out too) and arranged them into a playlist. Maybe we can get the original post on this thread updated with this new link?

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> I just wanted to post some photos of triple QNIX's at gaming........


What game is that?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Finally added descriptions to all my dismantling videos (threw one out too) and arranged them into a playlist. Maybe we can get the original post on this thread updated with this new link?
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE


Done








Thanks for the continuing effort you put into this club

I just noticed that when i turn the brightness all the way down, it is barley lit but the back light seems to flicker randomly. Is that the downside of the "pwm" back lighting that these monitors have?


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I just noticed that when i turn the brightness all the way down, it is barley lit but the back light seems to flicker randomly. Is that the downside of the "pwm" back lighting that these monitors have?


Sounds like pwm. I haven't seen that flicker, but I don't turn it down that much either.


----------



## suitaroh

Stupid question perhaps; How exactly would I overclock my Qnix I just got using my nvidia card? I can't seem to find detailed instructions for doing this.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> halodude23, that is just sick. You can actually justify some serious multi-GPU horsepower, unlike most people.


You know what's funny, I really actually didn't think a single 7950 could power all three of these and at high settings too. I'm getting pretty high temps though because it's been overclocked to 1150/1600.

I used to have triple 7970s though but it was too OP.


----------



## JQuantum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> You know what's funny, I really actually didn't think a single 7950 could power all three of these and at high settings too. I'm getting pretty high temps though because it's been overclocked to 1150/1600.
> 
> I used to have triple 7970s though but it was too OP.


nice to know my 7950 should work on a single monitor









PS. anyone know where to source the PCB (other than from another monitor)? I find nothing for DPL-2560LS.REV00.


----------



## MrGreenankle

Just threw away a message to hulustar asking whether the X-Star monitors were elegiable for the "first 100 pixel perfect" event, and he said that they weren't but that they would have some sort of campaign for the X-star in may.

Too bad that Hulustar doesn't offer free shipping to Sweden as the others do... Would be a really nice deal if they did.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> What game is that?


Battlefield 3


----------



## Joneszilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suitaroh*
> 
> Stupid question perhaps; How exactly would I overclock my Qnix I just got using my nvidia card? I can't seem to find detailed instructions for doing this.


Check this thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1382348/post-your-pls-overclocking-results
And here: http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide


----------



## Atomagenesis

Got my XSTAR DP2710 27" matte from hulustar yesterday for 300$, Not one dead pixel, absolutely perfect. No noticeable backlight bleed that I can tell. Extremely pleased with hulustar and the Xstar monitor, will attempt to overclock tonight when I get home from work!


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> Got my XSTAR DP2710 27" matte from hulustar yesterday for 300$, Not one dead pixel, absolutely perfect. No noticeable backlight bleed that I can tell. Extremely pleased with hulustar and the Xstar monitor, will attempt to overclock tonight when I get home from work!


Eagerly awaiting your results! I am looking to buy an Xstar but I wasn't sure about if they generally overclocked well so I am hesitating.


----------



## BradF1979

Looking for more feedback on the matte screen vs the glossy. Anyone have both? Anyone unhappy with the coating on the matte? Anyone unhappy with the amount of glare on the glossy?

Thanks.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Looking for more feedback on the matte screen vs the glossy. Anyone have both? Anyone unhappy with the coating on the matte? Anyone unhappy with the amount of glare on the glossy?
> 
> Thanks.


Me too although I'm sure it's been beaten to death in the other threads. Though they are super long, as everyone knows. Google wasn't particularly effective for me.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Me too although I'm sure it's been beaten to death in the other threads. Though they are super long, as everyone knows. Google wasn't particularly effective for me.


This is someone else's opinion so take it with a grain of salt but a few people said the matte finish isn't overly aggressive and that it's good overall.


----------



## Atomagenesis

It's not aggressive to me at all, looks amazing.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well I have a 27" iMac here at work which is glossy and I like it but I am really used to matte (at least for gaming).


----------



## hamzatm

I have a window right next to me and it does get annoying on my glossy QNIX. It isn't something you can prevent, closing the blinds and everything light still leaks through and shows up on the screen as a reflection. At night time when there is only electrical lighting it is all but unnoticeable.

That said the image on this glossy monitor looks soooo sharp and amazing compared to the matte's i've had. It's just crazy!

I've ordered a matte to compare the two though.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> I have a window right next to me and it does get annoying on my glossy QNIX. It isn't something you can prevent, closing the blinds and everything light still leaks through and shows up on the screen as a reflection. At night time when there is only electrical lighting it is all but unnoticeable.
> 
> That said the image on this glossy monitor looks soooo sharp and amazing compared to the matte's i've had. It's just crazy!
> 
> I've ordered a matte to compare the two though.


OooOoo let me know how they compare. I ordered a glossy and received a matte which kinda ticks me off. Seller seems unwilling to refund me any money but instead wants me to do a full exchange, I don't see the money savings that grants the seller but whatever.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hmm damn I do have a window at home...but yeah the brightness and crispness of the IQ on this glossy at work is really great.


----------



## Atomfix

Are these monitors from North Korea by any chance? They could be ticking time bombs ready to go off


----------



## Atomagenesis

Glad I got my monitor before Kim Jung Un decided to be a moron


----------



## Clairvoyant129

LOL you guys know there is a difference between South Korea and North Korea?


----------



## Atomagenesis

Yeah I meant that to mean: "Glad I got it before NK nuked SK."


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Guys these threads get long enough without OT banter.


----------



## ABeta

Qnix QX2710 matte version confirmed OC?


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABeta*
> 
> Qnix QX2710 matte version confirmed OC?


All the versions are confirmed, just luck of the draw if you can get 120HZ or not.


----------



## bhazard451

Love this monitor.

Thank you South Korea. Between these monitors, Samsung phones, cars, and PSY, you guys are on fire lately.


----------



## shinikaru

I plan to open up my monitor when I get home from work tonight and fix the "panel play" issue per wntrsnowg's pictures. I will perhaps take some additional pictures and post them here.

My main remaining issue with the monitor after this is fixed will be the backlight bleed. It's really not *that* big of a deal, but can be quite distracting - with so much monitor in front of you, having corners of the screen brighter than the rest sort of fades them out and makes it more difficult to process the information on the monitor as a whole (e.g. when gaming)

Is there something more I can do with the monitor open to fix the backlight bleed?


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinikaru*
> 
> I plan to open up my monitor when I get home from work tonight and fix the "panel play" issue per wntrsnowg's pictures. I will perhaps take some additional pictures and post them here.
> 
> My main remaining issue with the monitor after this is fixed will be the backlight bleed. It's really not *that* big of a deal, but can be quite distracting - with so much monitor in front of you, having corners of the screen brighter than the rest sort of fades them out and makes it more difficult to process the information on the monitor as a whole (e.g. when gaming)
> 
> Is there something more I can do with the monitor open to fix the backlight bleed?


Wait what did he post?


----------



## shinikaru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Wait what did he post?


In the OP... look for the spoiler "wntrsnowg mod solution to "Panel Play" (screen movement within monitor casing) and screen centering"

He essentially pops open the casing and sticks some electrical tape over the areas that the monitor frame rests on, effectively raising the panel inside the case. (to my understanding at least...)


----------



## Zero4549

So I had my panel stable at 130hz on my 680 Lightning, but I had to remove said 680 for RMA purpases (it started flexing under its own weight and ever since has had issues where it will just turn off after some random time, be it a week or 5 minutes. As of late, its been more like 5 minutes).

I could _probably_ have gone higher than 130, but the Nvidia drivers wouldn't even let me try. Now using my 560Ti PhysX/CUDA card as my backup, and it only clocks stable up to 97... so that tells me the card has more to do with it than the panel itself.

That said, when I get my 680L back, and have time to do the "pixel clock patch" to remove the limit on the driver level, I may well be able to get my OC higher. At that point, is there a way to change my "max stable oc" in the list?


----------



## d3vour3r

yay finally got mine!!!

QNIX qx2710. No dead pixels, minor unoticable BL bleed bottom middle. will overclock over the weekend and post back results. very happy










good packaging






contents


next to my acer v243hl


blank screen, can see any dead pixels, BL bleen bottom of screen which i reckon i can fix using the method in OP


----------



## george_orm

am flipping up between x-star(pixle perfect) or x-star(no pix perfect)

60 dollars difference, how are people hit rates on dodgy pixels


----------



## d3vour3r

mine has 0 and i didnt get a pixel perfect.


----------



## fullban

oh boy ,its like Christmas day!!

https://www.fedex.com/fedextrack/?tracknumbers=541231007194&locale=en_GB


----------



## fullban

its arrived!! no dead pixels no backlight bleed OC to 120hz no problem .....I am 1 very happy man

cant believe the difference between 60hz and 120hz smooth azz!!

I got mine from dream seller


----------



## george_orm

so are all the models now OCing .... beacasu that would be awesome,

also some panels ( the x-star) are claiming 8ms response time, while the 'New' achieva shimian are claiming 6ms.... any comments ?


----------



## blackforce

o/c it and see how dim this thing gets, the input lag is bad, my asus true 120hz 27in 1080 is much better. time to sell this thing already. seems like a good moniter for the price but not my cup of tea, and this one has no dead or stuck pixels and very little light bleed at the top.


----------



## george_orm

interested about the panels claiming 6ms resonse times, v the ones claiming 8, arnt we all dealing with the same panels


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george_orm*
> 
> interested about the panels claiming 6ms resonse times, v the ones claiming 8, arnt we all dealing with the same panels


Pretty sure they're identical and one of them is just misreported. These korean "knock off" companies are full of shenanigans like that.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackforce*
> 
> o/c it and see how dim this thing gets, the input lag is bad, my asus true 120hz 27in 1080 is much better. time to sell this thing already. seems like a good moniter for the price but not my cup of tea, and this one has no dead or stuck pixels and very little light bleed at the top.


This thing should have less input lag than your Asus LCD since it only has a bypass board.
About the dimming when overclocking, there are color profiles in the OP post which fix this.
Maybe you mean the response time (motion blur on fast moving pictures) is worse than on your Asus monitor? Because everyone here knows that.

I don't really know what you're complaining about dude, 0 dead pixels and no backlight bleed and you prefer a 1080p TN panel over a 1440p PLS.
Well, whatever.


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackforce*
> 
> o/c it and see how dim this thing gets, the input lag is bad, my asus true 120hz 27in 1080 is much better. time to sell this thing already. seems like a good moniter for the price but not my cup of tea, and this one has no dead or stuck pixels and very little light bleed at the top.


mines actually lookin better than my catleap (with a bit of tinkering with settings and colour profiles)

catleap 60hz


qnix 120hz


bo2 @ 120hz (I like saturation!)


the camera makes them both look a bit more oversaturated but still very nice indeed and the smoothness from 120hz is phenomenal never go back now


----------



## kakee

Cheapest matt with 100% sure OC capability? Think of dream seller matte for $326.90


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kakee*
> 
> Cheapest matt with 100% sure OC capability? Think of dream seller matte for $326.90


Yes, so far everyone here could get theirs at least to 80 Hz. 96 Hz is pretty guaranteed.
120 Hz doesn't work for everyone.
Just read the OP.


----------



## bhazard451

Almost 110hz guaranteed, PLS, 27", 2560x1440, under $300. There is no reason not to jump all over these right now while they are available.


----------



## kakee

Lot of listing which is good







Found this bigclothcraft X-STAR DP2710 Best, i think.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Is there any particular reason most have chosen a Qnix over an XStar so far (based on poll)? More listings of the former, perhaps? Can't find much else different but want to make sure I'm not missing something.


----------



## ChaoticG8R

If you actually read both threads, you would notice that the X-Stars do not have the same boards, which many people have noted have been more limiting to the overclocks. When questioned, the various sellers have said that the panels are the same, however the boards are "likely the same"....aka they are different. It really won't hurt you to search for your answers.


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticG8R*
> 
> If you actually read both threads, you would notice that the X-Stars do not have the same boards, which many people have noted have been more limiting to the overclocks. When questioned, the various sellers have said that the panels are the same, however the boards are "likely the same"....aka they are different. It really won't hurt you to search for your answers.


There hasn't been any concluding information about worse overclocking though. The sample is still very, very small. And that the sellers say that they are "likely the same" it does not have to mean that they're different.


----------



## ChaoticG8R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> There hasn't been any concluding information about worse overclocking though. The sample is still very, very small. And that the sellers say that they are "likely the same" it does not have to mean that they're different.


That is from available information. People have only broken down the Qnix product, perhaps you could vanquish the rumors by ordering a X-Star yourself and disassembling it!


----------



## Brien

Even if a monitor has some back light bleed/dead pixels, do you guys think they are still a stealt? Also, I'm undecided between Glossy and Matte. My current monitor is Matte, but I've also never had glossy. Any input?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticG8R*
> 
> If you actually read both threads, you would notice that the X-Stars do not have the same boards, which many people have noted have been more limiting to the overclocks. When questioned, the various sellers have said that the panels are the same, however the boards are "likely the same"....aka they are different. It really won't hurt you to search for your answers.


Considering my X-Star has a higher overclock than _anyone else has posted so far with a QNIX_, I'm not sure I can agree with that.

Also, all the sellers I contacted prior to buying said the internals are identical. They said the "frame" is different, but aside from the logo on the bottom, I don't see any difference there either, so perhaps thy mean the internal metal frame, which might explain why people with X-Stars don't panel play nearly as much.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Fair enough and thanks all. I didn't think to look for individual threads here; should have. Just happened to find this club on the front page yesterday. Everything just said will certainly be helpful to others as well.


----------



## bhazard451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brien*
> 
> Even if a monitor has some back light bleed/dead pixels, do you guys think they are still a stealt? Also, I'm undecided between Glossy and Matte. My current monitor is Matte, but I've also never had glossy. Any input?


Glossy can have a nicer, sharper, more contrast picture, but also shows glare. If you are near lots of windows, stick with matte. If not, go glossy.

Backlight bleed is only noticeable on a black screen, and is fixable. It is not something to return for. Dead pixels is what you don't want, and yes the monitor is an incredible steal right now. Even big name companies don't make a 120hz 2560x1440 27" IPS monitor, and especially not at this price.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Fair enough and thanks all. I didn't think to look for individual threads here; should have. Just happened to find this club on the front page yesterday. Everything just said will certainly be helpful to others as well.


Added under FAQ, which monitor should I buy? Qnix or X-star.

I am also thinking about changing the name of the club/thread from "The Korean PLS Monitor Club" to "The Qnix and X-star Owners Club" in order to be more descriptive.

Thoughts? Objections?


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Considering my X-Star has a higher overclock than _anyone else has posted so far with a QNIX_, I'm not sure I can agree with that.
> 
> Also, all the sellers I contacted prior to buying said the internals are identical. They said the "frame" is different, but aside from the logo on the bottom, I don't see any difference there either, so perhaps thy mean the internal metal frame, which might explain why people with X-Stars don't panel play nearly as much.


That pretty much settles it for me. Getting a matte X-star!


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Considering my X-Star has a higher overclock than _anyone else has posted so far with a QNIX_, I'm not sure I can agree with that.
> 
> Also, all the sellers I contacted prior to buying said the internals are identical. They said the "frame" is different, but aside from the logo on the bottom, I don't see any difference there either, so perhaps thy mean the internal metal frame, which might explain why people with X-Stars don't panel play nearly as much.


No panel play on my QNIX. I know the point of what you're trying to say but the fact remains that your claims are pretty thin tbh, considering the sheer number of people with a QNIX compared to the few with an X-Star. E.g.:
Quote:


> X-Stars don't panel play nearly as much.


There's no evidence for that. And you should also take into account that most people just don't care about OC's above 120Hz (me included) which is why I haven't posted a higher overclock. My QNIX handles 120Hz like nothing, it can likely go higher but I have no reason to bother trying.

That isn't saying don't get an X-Star. Just don't act like they are better than the competition.


----------



## apav

Just got a monoprice 24awg cable, it looks worse at 120hz with this cable than the other DVI cable I was using







I'm actually getting more scan lines with a thicker cable. Also, this hasn't happened to me before this cable, look at the icons:


So after trying an old DVI cable I was using, I got some scan lines in games at 120hz LCD Reduced. With the monoprice cable, I get scan lines on the desktop at 120hz LCD Reduced, probably more in games. Am I having bad luck with cables, or is it that my monitor can't handle 120hz? If it helps, I just updated my 7970 drivers to 13.5 beta and ran the patcher again.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brien*
> 
> Even if a monitor has some back light bleed/dead pixels, do you guys think they are still a stealt? Also, I'm undecided between Glossy and Matte. My current monitor is Matte, but I've also never had glossy. Any input?


Here's how I see it. Backlight bleed is usually only visible in the dark on a black screen, and even then I really need to look for it to ever actually be a problem. For the dead pixels, when you sit about 2 feet from the monitor, they're so small that again, you have to be looking for them to be a problem. Also, the one dead pixel I had on my monitor was fixed just by pressing on it a little bit. If you want to pay $300-500 more for a monitor with better quality control, you can go ahead. But even those monitors usually have some bleeding and can also even have dead pixels.

For matte vs glossy, I'm definitely going to have to say matte. The matte coating on this monitor seems to be really high quality and doesn't degrade the picture much. I do not have a glossy Qnix but I do have a glossy monitor, and even though I have no windows behind me the room lighting is enough to get some REALLY bad reflections on the screen, especially on black images. To me this wasn't worth it for the things I wanted to do with the monitor, and the matte was definitely the right way to go. I think so many people have the glossy because it's generally cheaper.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I am also thinking about changing the name of the club/thread from "The Korean PLS Monitor Club" to "The Qnix and X-star Owners Club" in order to be more descriptive.
> 
> Thoughts? Objections?


I think that's unnecessarily limiting. We could have called it the Qnix club before. Also, I don't know how they're picking their brands names, but they are kinda lame. Anyone else agree?


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> I think that's unnecessarily limiting. We could have called it the Qnix club before. Also, I don't know how they're picking their brands names, but they are kinda lame. Anyone else agree?


I sort of agree, but sort of don't. The Korean PLS monitors people are buying now are either Qnix or X-Star, changing the thread title won't limit anyone. However, maybe you should just put "(Qnix and X-Star)" at the end so people know what you're talking about, opposed to just the generic "Korean monitor."

Also, make sure you guys give wntrsnowg (The OP) some Rep+ for all the work he's putting into this thread!


----------



## JQuantum

I think the WQHD part should be more important than either QNIX or XStar since there are 24" versions of the qnix IIRC but 1080p and not much fun.


----------



## BradF1979

I don't think any cable is going to fix your scan lines, your monitor just isn't going to do 120hz. Try 96Hz.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> I don't think any cable is going to fix your scan lines, your monitor just isn't going to do 120hz. Try 96Hz.


I don't know, because the frequency of the scan lines changes from cable to cable (I don't even get scan lines at all on the desktop with one cable, but it's too short).

Also, this monoprice cable is so heavy and thick the end of the cable won't fit straight into the port. It's on an angle, and I'm afraid it's pulling the actual port with it. Is this a problem, or can the port handle this heavy cable pulling it to the side?


----------



## FragZero

Having some issue's with my PLS display and Crossfire

Setup

Windows 8
2x 7850 DCII 2gb
Decent DVI cable

Crossfire working fine at 1080p60

What i have done

- Enabled test mode
- Patch the driver

Reboot

- Add custom resolutions using CRU

Reboot

3d crashes at startup with Crossfire enabled, 120hz works great with a single card, or 1440p with crossfire at 80hz.

Am i doing anything wrong with the patching?


----------



## TriggerOrcutt

I'm planning to order one of these monitors soon, but I'm coming from a 2ms screen and am wondering if moving to 6ms (or 8ms?) is going to cause a lot of trouble for me in games.
Also, does anyone know if an overclocked monitor will last a reasonably long time? I know what to expect when it comes to longevity when overclocking a processor, but until a couple months ago so far as I knew overclocking a monitor was non-existent.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TriggerOrcutt*
> 
> I'm planning to order one of these monitors soon, but I'm coming from a 2ms screen and am wondering if moving to 6ms (or 8ms?) is going to cause a lot of trouble for me in games.
> Also, does anyone know if an overclocked monitor will last a reasonably long time? I know what to expect when it comes to longevity when overclocking a processor, but until a couple months ago so far as I knew overclocking a monitor was non-existent.


I used a LG W2361V before moving to this monitor and it's a lot better for playing Counter-Strike: Source than the LG (which is advertised as having a 2ms response time)
That's probably because it runs at 96 Hz. Everything is smooth as ****.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FragZero*
> 
> Having some issue's with my PLS display and Crossfire
> 
> Setup
> 
> Windows 8
> 2x 7850 DCII 2gb
> Decent DVI cable
> 
> Crossfire working fine at 1080p60
> 
> What i have done
> 
> - Enabled test mode
> - Patch the driver
> 
> Reboot
> 
> - Add custom resolutions using CRU
> 
> Reboot
> 
> 3d crashes at startup with Crossfire enabled, 120hz works great with a single card, or 1440p with crossfire at 80hz.
> 
> Am i doing anything wrong with the patching?


I had the same problem,I solved it by using 2 crossfire bridges at the same time, odd sounding I know, but like clockwork if I remove either bridge,I get crashes or an 80hz max limit


----------



## FragZero

i have read about 2 crossfire bridges, small issue, my 7850 only have 1 connector


----------



## BradF1979

So does my 7870, so I'm glad this topic has been brought up as I was considering crossfiring it to support this new monitor, but now I know I'll have to sell it and upgrade to a better card.'

When you say '3d crashes at startup' are you talking about any game or are you talking about enabling stereo 3d (or whatever kind of 3d these cards support).


----------



## FragZero

I already have my CF setup up for sale, probably grabbing a 7950 with a good heatsink, possibly an 7970


----------



## wntrsnowg

Thread/club renaming
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> I think that's unnecessarily limiting. We could have called it the Qnix club before. Also, I don't know how they're picking their brands names, but they are kinda lame. Anyone else agree?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> I sort of agree, but sort of don't. The Korean PLS monitors people are buying now are either Qnix or X-Star, changing the thread title won't limit anyone. However, maybe you should just put "(Qnix and X-Star)" at the end so people know what you're talking about, opposed to just the generic "Korean monitor."
> 
> Also, make sure you guys give wntrsnowg (The OP) some Rep+ for all the work he's putting into this thread!


How about "The Korean PLS Monitor Club (Qnix & X-Star)"

p.s. thanks for the reps. I will continue to monitor thread and update the OP


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I don't know, because the frequency of the scan lines changes from cable to cable (I don't even get scan lines at all on the desktop with one cable, but it's too short).
> 
> Also, this monoprice cable is so heavy and thick the end of the cable won't fit straight into the port. It's on an angle, and I'm afraid it's pulling the actual port with it. Is this a problem, or can the port handle this heavy cable pulling it to the side?


You didn't mention the cables were different lengths. The shorter the cable, the less signal degradation. I don't think it's the fault of monoprice or the thickness if the lengths are different. I doubt you'll get a long one that works if the 24AWG one didn't work. I have the monoprice 10' 24AWG and zero issues at 120Hz besides the cloudiness on the right that I still believe everyone is getting, even if they don't notice it right away.

You're probably just struggling with a monitor that can't quite pull it off, and the shorter cable is just helping a bit.


----------



## unitus77

So i've had my XSTAR DP2710 Matte for 2 days now. Absolutely love it, 1440p is just awesome colours are amazing.
I paid $288 and $22 for duty/tax into Canada thanks to bigclothcraft marking it at $90. Some have paid $50-60 duty. $310 all in for this monitor is an absolute steal.
I got one dead pixel and some minor backlight bleed. I have had it overclocked to 110hz for a day now, done some gaming and ran furmark for an hour any did not see any lines.
Also didn't get the brightness fading that others have.

At 120hz i have lines everywhere, but i'm pretty positive with a better cable and GPU on the way (right now i have a 5830) i will be able to hit 120hz no problem. If you're still on the brink about getting one of these just do it. The price is only going to go up. I did a mini unboxing and some screen caps check them out here:


http://imgur.com/SpNCV


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unitus77*
> 
> I did a mini unboxing and some screen caps check them out here:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/SpNCV


kitties!!!!


----------



## unitus77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> kitties!!!!


Ofcorse


----------



## ChaoticG8R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Considering my X-Star has a higher overclock than _anyone else has posted so far with a QNIX_, I'm not sure I can agree with that.


You also said that you could not replicate the overclock using a different card...


----------



## miket5au

I have just ordered a QNIX QX2710 from green-sum but I don't know if it is Glossy or Matte.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140934439651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I don't have a preference so I will wait and see what it is like. Thanks to the people who said they are using these monitors with a 5870 as all the sellers seem to list it as unsupported!


----------



## BroJin

Ordered Qnix Qx2710 from Hulustar on 4/23/2013 and received on 4/26/2013 @ Wash. DC. so far so good. over clocked to 96 Mhz. Haven't tried going over that yet. Now to check for dead pixels and bleeding issue.
So far loving it


----------



## Snrcbpco

Verification


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Does anyone have a link to download a huge package of 2560x1440p images I have found lots of 1080p ones but no 1440p large packages.


----------



## joarangoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroJin*
> 
> Ordered Qnix Qx2710 from Hulustar on 4/23/2013 and received on 4/26/2013 @ Wash. DC. so far so good. over clocked to 96 Mhz. Haven't tried going over that yet. Now to check for dead pixels and bleeding issue.
> So far loving it


Also ordered mine from hulustar on 04/23, shipped on the 25th and its now in customs in my country. Probably going to be delayed there for a while, might get it next week. Still not bad from Korea to South America in 3 days.

Cant wait to get it, hope to see some significant change coming from 22" @ 1680*1050.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Does anyone have a link to download a huge package of 2560x1440p images I have found lots of 1080p ones but no 1440p large packages.


http://www.google.com/search?q=1440p&hl=en&biw=2560&bih=1339&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=lnt&tbs=isz:ex,iszw:2560,iszh:1440&sa=X&ei=Ijp7Uf-_FabF0gHs14FY&ved=0CCkQpwUoBQ#hl=en&site=imghp&tbs=isz:ex%2Ciszw%3A2560%2Ciszh%3A1440&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=wallpaper&oq=wallpaper&gs_l=img.3..0l10.7646.8685.0.8848.9.7.0.2.2.1.104.474.5j2.7.0...0.0...1c.1.11.img.lDfy6UTMs20&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45645796,d.dmQ&fp=593080add3893b48&biw=2560&bih=1339

Not a package, but I hope it helps!


----------



## Strileckifunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Does anyone have a link to download a huge package of 2560x1440p images I have found lots of 1080p ones but no 1440p large packages.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> http://www.google.com/search?q=1440p&hl=en&biw=2560&bih=1339&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=lnt&tbs=isz:ex,iszw:2560,iszh:1440&sa=X&ei=Ijp7Uf-_FabF0gHs14FY&ved=0CCkQpwUoBQ#hl=en&site=imghp&tbs=isz:ex%2Ciszw%3A2560%2Ciszh%3A1440&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=wallpaper&oq=wallpaper&gs_l=img.3..0l10.7646.8685.0.8848.9.7.0.2.2.1.104.474.5j2.7.0...0.0...1c.1.11.img.lDfy6UTMs20&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45645796,d.dmQ&fp=593080add3893b48&biw=2560&bih=1339
> 
> Not a package, but I hope it helps!


Basically that. Just search by exact size (or larger since it'll scale down nicely) and throw in some keywords of what you like. I think some of the "abstract" wallpapers look really nice.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snrcbpco*
> 
> Verification


I don't especially want to turn this into a wallpaper thread, but, um, could I have that one?


----------



## taiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> I don't especially want to turn this into a wallpaper thread, but, um, could I have that one?


me 2


----------



## unitus77

Tons of 1440p walleys here: http://wallpaperswide.com/


----------



## Zero4549

I've got a huge collection of wallpapers I've made for my own personal use using fractals I render in Apophysis. That said, none of them are 1440p _yet_. I've got a bunch for my old monitors ranging from 1024x756 to 1920x1200. I even foresaw this monitor upgrade, and started making larger ones recently, but I was going to get a 1600p panel until I saw this incredible deal.

Guess I'll just have to start pumping out some new ones now. At any rate, would you guys like me to do some file dumps in this thread in a week or three once I have a decent number made to fit?

Here's a sample. This is the set I was using on my last monitor (1920x1200) / currently am using until I get around to making a new 1440p set that I like (I have it set to have windows cycle through a set of different color but otherwise identical wallpapers). Please excuse the blurryness, it's a result of stretching the image and changing it's aspect ratio to fit the new screen.


----------



## hellzlegend

Got mine today, 1 stuck pixel on the right edge and maybe a dead pixel on the bottom. I could barely see it so I'm okay with it.
It seems mine doesn't go past 80hz. It doesn't even show up as one of the options and when I changed the original one to 96hz, I get the test pattern. When I reconnect it, it resets itself to 60hz.
Maybe I'm overclocking wrong or just got unlucky.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

I suggest everyone with a 1440p display to use aquasnap to allow you to snap more windows onto different parts of your screen at once. I wish I would have got it sooner here is the link http://www.nurgo-software.com/products/aquasnap


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellzlegend*
> 
> Got mine today, 1 stuck pixel on the right edge and maybe a dead pixel on the bottom. I could barely see it so I'm okay with it.
> It seems mine doesn't go past 80hz. It doesn't even show up as one of the options and when I changed the original one to 96hz, I get the test pattern. When I reconnect it, it resets itself to 60hz.
> Maybe I'm overclocking wrong or just got unlucky.


You have to patch the drivers to go higher than ~80 Hz.
http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide
There are some other guides, but it comes down to patching the driver and adding a new mode for the monitor.


----------



## Cwinston

For those who try their own DVI cables, which ones do you buy? DVI-D dual link or another type?


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwinston*
> 
> For those who try their own DVI cables, which ones do you buy? DVI-D dual link or another type?


DVI-DUAL


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> You didn't mention the cables were different lengths. The shorter the cable, the less signal degradation. I don't think it's the fault of monoprice or the thickness if the lengths are different. I doubt you'll get a long one that works if the 24AWG one didn't work. I have the monoprice 10' 24AWG and zero issues at 120Hz besides the cloudiness on the right that I still believe everyone is getting, even if they don't notice it right away.
> 
> You're probably just struggling with a monitor that can't quite pull it off, and the shorter cable is just helping a bit.


Well, it's not that big of a difference. The monoprice cable I just got is only 6ft, whereas the other cable is maybe a foot less. But in this case, a foot more was crucial to me so I didn't have to bend the cable backwards to get it to fit. If you can get no scan lines with a 10ft cable, I should be able to get the same with a 6ft one right? Unless like you said it's my monitor, but I asked HyperMatrix and he said he has two of these cables and one is no good while the other one works fine for him at 120hz. I'm getting another Monoprice 24 AWG, and if that one doesn't work either I'll just accept that it's my monitor.


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Hello top the wonderful club of PLS monitors from SK namely the Qnix and the Xstar
I will have to make this quick as I have an exam tomorrow,
I bought mine from Dream Seller, ordered and paid on 16th April and just got it today on 27th
I don't seem to have any stuck or dead pixels at the moment but terrible blacklight bleed which is quite visible in any dark scene.
haven't got a chance to play with this baby of mine and yeah I come from the a lowly CRT with a display resolution of 1024*768 so anything is better.... not as I can see the contrasts and the blacks also the diplay angles, which are absent in a TN panel but are very much a reality on a IPS or a PLS or a CRT for that matter. 

Please tell me what you think about the backlight bleed.
Haven't overclocked it don't know how to yet will patch the drivers and use the tools provided as and when I get a little free time maybe in 3 days from now. I was following the original thread from the last 15 days or so before making a purchase.
still a little mad about the bleed.
Thanks to Dascth and all the other members who have provided the inputs and also colour profiles, i don't have a calorimeter myself.
Thanks again cheers.


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> Hello top the wonderful club of PLS monitors from SK namely the Qnix and the Xstar
> I will have to make this quick as I have an exam tomorrow,
> I bought mine from Dream Seller, ordered and paid on 16th April and just got it today on 27th
> I don't seem to have any stuck or dead pixels at the moment but terrible blacklight bleed which is quite visible in any dark scene.
> haven't got a chance to play with this baby of mine and yeah I come from the a lowly CRT with a display resolution of 1024*768 so anything is better.... not as I can see the contrasts and the blacks also the diplay angles, which are absent in a TN panel but are very much a reality on a IPS or a PLS or a CRT for that matter.
> 
> Please tell me what you think about the backlight bleed.
> Haven't overclocked it don't know how to yet will patch the drivers and use the tools provided as and when I get a little free time maybe in 3 days from now. I was following the original thread from the last 15 days or so before making a purchase.
> still a little mad about the bleed.
> Thanks to Dascth and all the other members who have provided the inputs and also colour profiles, i don't have a calorimeter myself.
> Thanks again cheers.


I think that's the worst back light bleed I have seen. I think there was a guy who got a replacement because of terrible bleed somewhere in the other thread, don't remember what seller he had though.

Don't think you'll have any luck with dream seller, when I contacted them about backlight bleed they said that no amount of bleeding is a reason for return/replacement. Maybe you should still try though.


----------



## MenacingTuba

When does the option come up to buy the square trade warranty? Not seeing it as an option for any of the PLS models.


----------



## MrGreenankle

Matte X-star on its way from BCC! Ordered it yesterday and it said it would likely come Tuesday or Wednesday.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello top the wonderful club of PLS monitors from SK namely the Qnix and the Xstar
> I will have to make this quick as I have an exam tomorrow,
> I bought mine from Dream Seller, ordered and paid on 16th April and just got it today on 27th
> I don't seem to have any stuck or dead pixels at the moment but terrible blacklight bleed which is quite visible in any dark scene.
> haven't got a chance to play with this baby of mine and yeah I come from the a lowly CRT with a display resolution of 1024*768 so anything is better.... not as I can see the contrasts and the blacks also the diplay angles, which are absent in a TN panel but are very much a reality on a IPS or a PLS or a CRT for that matter.
> 
> Please tell me what you think about the backlight bleed.
> Haven't overclocked it don't know how to yet will patch the drivers and use the tools provided as and when I get a little free time maybe in 3 days from now. I was following the original thread from the last 15 days or so before making a purchase.
> still a little mad about the bleed.
> Thanks to Dascth and all the other members who have provided the inputs and also colour profiles, i don't have a calorimeter myself.
> Thanks again cheers.


You could try contacting the seller about your issue.
If he says that he wont replace it or can't do anything about that you should try opening that thing up since most of that probably comes from the casing.
There are some videos and pictures in the other thread which will help you with that, though it really isn't hard.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> When does the option come up to buy the square trade warranty? Not seeing it as an option for any of the PLS models.


I think you have to get the warranty at square trades website, after purchase of monitor on eBay


----------



## BroJin

Good luck on your new monitor. Right now mine is running flawless. Can't tell if my monitor has any dead pixels or major back light bleed yet. Not going to go CSI to find imperfections You get what you pay for but then we got SPOILED with this amazing unit from my mother land.


----------



## BroJin

Note to everyone. INSTALL THE CATLEAP driver. I had issues when i used Splashtop or everytime i restart, my native resolution would go to 1080p.
and QX2710 would just go blank.








Problem gone after I installed the CATLEAP driver for now.









http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide&s=47430a2a4ca24608f3db6259f1446f61


----------



## fullban

I ordered and received my monitor via fedex but had no charges for vat or anything im from uk

will I get a surprise invoice of fedex is that how they work?


----------



## taiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> I ordered and received my monitor via fedex but had no charges for vat or anything im from uk
> 
> will I get a surprise invoice of fedex is that how they work?


you might get lucky but if i was you i would save at least 100 quid in case they send you a letter in the next few weeks.I paid 61.50 for mine and paid the guy who delivered it.It was UPS btw.


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taiko*
> 
> you might get lucky but if i was you i would save at least 100 quid in case they send you a letter in the next few weeks.I paid 61.50 for mine and paid the guy who delivered it.It was UPS btw.


crossed fingers


----------



## bhazard451

Tomb Raider is on sale from Green Man Gaming and Origin this weekend for $20-25. Excellent showcase for 1440p and 120hz.


----------



## Spartan F8

I can definitely say Dead Space 3 [email protected] with all the eye candy on is just crazy.









Oh BTW i was able to get mine to 138hz before i started getting bad psychedelic stuff on the screen. Also with the screen at full brightness my uniformity is pretty good @ 120hz but if i turn it down very far it does get a bit off(not like others have shown but it is off). So for you guys with bad uniformity at 120hz turning up the brightness can help IF that is an option for you.

Also SVP(smooth video project) looks fantastic on 120hz for movies(if you can get used to it). I watched the Hobbit with SVP on and it is just too real.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

All right, just bought a matte Qnix from excellentcastle and just sold my 6950 and bought a 7950. Now I have to wait till saturday so i can play with those







because i have a semester to finish and some exam to study, wish me luck with the oc


----------



## hellzlegend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> You have to patch the drivers to go higher than ~80 Hz.
> http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide
> There are some other guides, but it comes down to patching the driver and adding a new mode for the monitor.


I did patch it...
Still don't know the reason for the test patterns.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me what you think about the backlight bleed.


That's pretty bad, but given the pattern, I'd say most of the egregious stuff is fixable. Let me know if you decide to try to fix it, I've had some more ideas I'd love to try out on a willing subject







You would definitely have to open it up though.

I honestly think that 90% of backlight bleed is fixable within a few hours if you're ok opening it. I personally don't think you should feel guilty opening it and still using the warranty down the road if needed, given they send out monitors like this that and then say that backlight bleed isn't covered under the warranty. I personally didn't see any warranty "seal" they would check, so like I said, if you feel you can open it and follow some instructions, you ARE the perfect subject to really show we can fix this stuff!


----------



## JQuantum

So, the bleed is a bit worse than I thought but apparently my ASUS is worse and both are still not bad.



120Hz, no dead pixels, minor bezel pop and only this much bleed


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Also SVP(smooth video project) looks fantastic on 120hz for movies(if you can get used to it). I watched the Hobbit with SVP on and it is just too real.


I've been wondering how to do this on PCs for a while, thanks for the suggestion. Alas, I only get a solid green screen when I try to play videos. How did you get this to work? Does it only work for Nvidia cards at these refresh rates?


----------



## $k1||z_r0k

hey i just got my x-star matte pls monitor from BCC and first thing i notice is the bleed... pretty bad, worse than my old first generation Acer 23" 120Hz 3D monitor. i also noticed that i can press on the top part of the screen and it is _VERY_ loose! the panel is just jiggling around in the enclosure if i press anywhere on the top part of the screen, and the only part that seems secured is the bottom part (but maybe that's only because of the weight?)

how the panel is not secured to the bezel worries me, in that it could've been seriously damaged in shipping it! so anyways now what i want to do is just fix it so it stops light bleed and doesn't wiggle around. what's the best way to fix the panel from moving around after dismantling it?


----------



## FiveofBroats

I got my Glossy Qnix QX2710 from Fed Ex yesterday...I am floored. For the low price of 320 and change, I bought a pixel perfect panel. It...is...stunning. The gloss doesn't bother me too much, just turn off most of your lights. If you have a window behind you, or anywhere near you, I'd make sure the curtains or blinds are drawn. Amazing picture, at a low price. I sound like an advert, but damn, I feel like I gambled and hit the jackpot. Haven't overclocked yet...still fiddling with my PC, which I just finished building yesterday (my first build), but eventually I'll get around to it.

The details: Arrived in perfect shape, not enough backlight bleed to bother me, no dead pixels, and humorously wobbly "glass" stand which isn't so bad, so long as you don't nudge your desk often (the monitor will jiggle if you do). I didn't receive a plug adapter, but it was okay, I ran to Best Buy and bought one for six bucks. Customer service from Dream Seller was the best I've experienced on Ebay. I bought the panel on Monday, at 2:52pm, and Fed Ex attempted to deliver around noon (I picked it up at their office at 6:45pm). From South Korea to California in less than five days.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> I've been wondering how to do this on PCs for a while, thanks for the suggestion. Alas, I only get a solid green screen when I try to play videos. How did you get this to work? Does it only work for Nvidia cards at these refresh rates?


You have to disable hardware accelration since you patched your drivers and broke HDCP with that.
Check this: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
SVP uses MPC-HC I guess + madVR? Just do it like it's being said there: You simply need to go to the "Internal Filters" section of the options for MPC and uncheck DXVA.
If you have lav-filters aswell then you have to go to the lav video settings aswell.
I'm on GNU/Linux right now and not bothered to boot into windows and check so just search around for DXVA.


----------



## RB Snake

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Panel-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/130869201480?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1e78698a48&_uhb=1

So these overclock? I bought a Catleap just as the the 2B models stopped selling on ebay so I missed out








Should I grab one of these while I can, looking at the first post it looks like most people are getting decent OC's on these, is the one I linked the correct model?


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RB Snake*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Panel-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/130869201480?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1e78698a48&_uhb=1
> 
> So these overclock? I bought a Catleap just as the the 2B models stopped selling on ebay so I missed out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I grab one of these while I can, looking at the first post it looks like most people are getting decent OC's on these, is the one I linked the correct model?


Yep this one is nice. It even is a perfect pixel one.
So far everyone could overclock theirs, I think.


----------



## TarAldarion

Thinking of getting the qnix. I see dreamseller and BCC have it for 309.90, is that the lowest around, which seller do you recommend?

Also matte or glossy, what do you guys think.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> You have to disable hardware accelration since you patched your drivers and broke HDCP with that.
> Check this: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> SVP uses MPC-HC I guess + madVR? Just do it like it's being said there: You simply need to go to the "Internal Filters" section of the options for MPC and uncheck DXVA.
> If you have lav-filters aswell then you have to go to the lav video settings aswell.
> I'm on GNU/Linux right now and not bothered to boot into windows and check so just search around for DXVA.


I would use the MPC-HC install that SVP comes with and then turn on madvr as your video renderer. Then if you want to utilize your GPU for video processing turn on the LAV filters and set them to prefer. Also if youhave an nvidia GPU you can set the LAV video decoder to cuvid for the best performance.

http://myanimelist.net/forum/?topicid=516729

This link has a pretty good guide with some good info but you would use this after installing and enabling SVP which should be automatic with the installer. Hope this helps.


----------



## TarAldarion

Im thinking of going for this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203080190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb23fe

it says it wont retunr it for backligt and dust though, will it return for dead pixels, is this normal?

you also have to buy an adapter? Im in ireland


----------



## Slizzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> Thinking of getting the qnix. I see dreamseller and BCC have it for 309.90, is that the lowest around, which seller do you recommend?
> 
> Also matte or glossy, what do you guys think.


I ordered from Dream-seller. They ship very quickly, monitor came only in it's standard box, but it was in good shape when it got to me.

As for Matte or Glossy, it depends on what room your computer is in. I have mine in my basement, so the Glossy was perfect for me (i have pot lights in the ceiling I can dim). If you're in a room where you can't control lighting, or where there are any windows to the side or behind, you're better off getting the matte screen.


----------



## TarAldarion

Matte it is so, jsut worried about the return policy on the one I want hmmm.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$k1||z_r0k*
> 
> hey i just got my x-star matte pls monitor from BCC and first thing i notice is the bleed... pretty bad, worse than my old first generation Acer 23" 120Hz 3D monitor. i also noticed that i can press on the top part of the screen and it is _VERY_ loose! the panel is just jiggling around in the enclosure if i press anywhere on the top part of the screen, and the only part that seems secured is the bottom part (but maybe that's only because of the weight?)
> 
> how the panel is not secured to the bezel worries me, in that it could've been seriously damaged in shipping it! so anyways now what i want to do is just fix it so it stops light bleed and doesn't wiggle around. what's the best way to fix the panel from moving around after dismantling it?


That is called panel play. Look at the op at the last spoiler which is titled "wntrsnowg mod to panel play"


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> You have to disable hardware accelration since you patched your drivers and broke HDCP with that.
> Check this: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> SVP uses MPC-HC I guess + madVR? Just do it like it's being said there: You simply need to go to the "Internal Filters" section of the options for MPC and uncheck DXVA.
> If you have lav-filters aswell then you have to go to the lav video settings aswell.
> I'm on GNU/Linux right now and not bothered to boot into windows and check so just search around for DXVA.


I actually did try that and didn't get it to work. I got it to play in VLC by disabling GPU acceleration, but you can't use SVP with VLC.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I would use the MPC-HC install that SVP comes with and then turn on madvr as your video renderer. Then if you want to utilize your GPU for video processing turn on the LAV filters and set them to prefer. Also if youhave an nvidia GPU you can set the LAV video decoder to cuvid for the best performance.
> 
> http://myanimelist.net/forum/?topicid=516729
> 
> This link has a pretty good guide with some good info but you would use this after installing and enabling SVP which should be automatic with the installer. Hope this helps.


I use mplayer2 + gl3 on GNU/Linux and http://haruhichan.com/forum/showthread.php?7545-KCP-Kawaii-Codec-Pack on windows.
KCP works flawless for me on windows, you just have to disable DXVA in the LAV settings.
It has interpolation aswell (in madVR).


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> I use mplayer2 + gl3 on GNU/Linux and http://haruhichan.com/forum/showthread.php?7545-KCP-Kawaii-Codec-Pack on windows.
> KCP works flawless for me on windows, you just have to disable DXVA in the LAV settings.
> It has interpolation aswell (in madVR).


Disabling HW accel in LAV settings (not internal filters of MPC) worked. Thanks!


----------



## MrGreenankle

I am likely to receive my monitor in 2 or 3 days, and I am so excited for it!

Going to prep for it by looking up some nice wallpapers. Do you guys have any suggestions for good sites? Tried googling for images with custom set resolution but a lot of them just seemed like low quality upscales....

Another weird request: is there any way of removing or hiding the logo on the monitor in a nice way? The X-star one doesn't look too sleek, so some fix for that (that does not include duct tape







) would be awesome!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> I am likely to receive my monitor in 2 or 3 days, and I am so excited for it!
> 
> Going to prep for it by looking up some nice wallpapers. Do you guys have any suggestions for good sites? Tried googling for images with custom set resolution but a lot of them just seemed like low quality upscales....
> 
> Another weird request: is there any way of removing or hiding the logo on the monitor in a nice way? The X-star one doesn't look too sleek, so some fix for that (that does not include duct tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) would be awesome!
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Permanent marker over it and try to blend it in with the bezel hahaha.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> I am likely to receive my monitor in 2 or 3 days, and I am so excited for it!
> 
> Going to prep for it by looking up some nice wallpapers. Do you guys have any suggestions for good sites? Tried googling for images with custom set resolution but a lot of them just seemed like low quality upscales....
> 
> Another weird request: is there any way of removing or hiding the logo on the monitor in a nice way? The X-star one doesn't look too sleek, so some fix for that (that does not include duct tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) would be awesome!
> 
> Thanks in advance!


You could try paint/polish remover. Just don't let it sit too long or it might eat the plastic bezel too.


----------



## MenacingTuba

I put a piece of black duct tape over my 2720MDP's logo.
http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/2...Back Light Comparisons/LightboostOff.jpg.html


----------



## JQuantum

BTW those that get the monitors and don't have a plug adapter... you can just take a cable from your old desktop, broken power supply, other monitor etc etc etc...

You just need something like  which I have tons of lying around from broken PSUs computers and old monitors. So you can save yourself some cash.

No need for an adapter.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JQuantum*
> 
> BTW those that get the monitors and don't have a plug adapter... you can just take a cable from your old desktop, broken power supply, other monitor etc etc etc...
> 
> You just need something like  which I have tons of lying around from broken PSUs computers and old monitors. So you can save yourself some cash.
> 
> No need for an adapter.


Better than an adapter actually. Less bulky, and it had a proper ground pin.


----------



## apav

Would you guys consider the backlight bleed on mine bad? It really doesn't look as bad in person. The colors aren't really noticeable.



I think I made the top right corner worse than it was since I've been pressing on it constantly to fix a stuck pixel that won't go away. So if I do the mod to fix the panel play should that lessen the backlight bleed also? I'm a little reluctant because when I opened my Catleap to take the stand off I did a terrible job. When I was prying the bezel open with a screwdriver I left bumps and scratches everywhere on the sides.


----------



## FiveofBroats

Download a few from this site and prepare to be in awe.

http://interfacelift.com/


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Would you guys consider the backlight bleed on mine bad?


No, one of the things about LCDs is that viewed from an angle, they produce different amounts of backlighting. When you think about the angle you're viewing it at (directly in front of the screen), what are the areas of the screen that you're viewing from the largest angle? The corners. If you were to take the picture with the camera directly in front of one of the corners, the "bleed" you're seeing would be gone, and the others (especially the far corner) would be worse. The backlight bleed you care about from shots taken from directly in-front of the screen are the ones that show up on edges or are colored, like your one corner. You don't have really bad classic backlight bleed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> So if I do the mod to fix the panel play should that lessen the backlight bleed also?


This is another common question I thought I'd finally weigh in on. If you have a lot of play, that means you are exerting almost no pressure on the LCD panel assembly (metal-framed thing from my breakdown vids) from the enclosure. Backlight bleed is caused by light being visible without it traveling through the LCD pixel matrix (the only light you're supposed to see). If you have a case that is pinching the metal LCD assembly or the LCD panel itself, you can get light to come through spaces it makes in the LCD "layers" (again from the vids). One of the benefits of the "play" is that you're less likely to be pinching the LCD assembly tightly. The other, I believe more common, cause of backlight bleed is when the case isn't pushing on the assembly in any significant amount as previously mentioned, BUT the layers inside the LCD panel assembly are not held tightly together enough to ensure even spacing and NO gaps where light can squeeze through around edges. I think part of the reason the mod you see me do in my videos works isn't for the reason you (and I) might first think. I thought I was putting black tape in the place where light was squeezing out and shining on the front surface of the panel. I now think adding that tape really just squeezed the layers inside tighter together, removing gaps where light could travel around a layer (such as the diffuser) and shine on the back or edge of the liquid crystal panel (top layer).

So, in the end I think the biggest fixes for backlight bleed will be with modifications to the LCD panel assembly itself, and not the casing.

EDIT: you may still have a problem in your corners that's being masked by the angle you're shooting at. I suggest to you and anyone else doing this, to shoot 5 shots, one with the camera directly in-front of each corner, and one from straight in front, as you've done. That'll tell a lot about what's actually bleeding versus the LCD off-angle "shimmer" as I call it. Example pics coming...


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> No, one of the things about LCDs is that viewed from an angle, they produce different amounts of backlighting. When you think about the angle you're viewing it at (directly in front of the screen), what are the areas of the screen that you're viewing from the largest angle? The corners. If you were to take the picture with the camera directly in front of one of the corners, the "bleed" you're seeing would be gone, and the others (especially the far corner) would be worse. The backlight bleed you care about from shots taken from directly in-front of the screen are the ones that show up on edges or are colored, like your one corner. You don't have really bad classic backlight bleed.
> This is another common question I thought I'd finally weigh in on. If you have a lot of play, that means you are exerting almost no pressure on the LCD panel assembly (metal-framed thing from my breakdown vids) from the enclosure. Backlight bleed is caused by light being visible without it traveling through the LCD pixel matrix (the only light you're supposed to see). If you have a case that is pinching the metal LCD assembly or the LCD panel itself, you can get light to come through spaces it makes in the LCD "layers" (again from the vids). One of the benefits of the "play" is that you're less likely to be pinching the LCD assembly tightly. The other, I believe more common, cause of backlight bleed is when the case isn't pushing on the assembly in any significant amount as previously mentioned, BUT the layers inside the LCD panel assembly are not held tightly together enough to ensure even spacing and NO gaps where light can squeeze through around edges. I think part of the reason the mod you see me do in my videos works isn't for the reason you (and I) might first think. I thought I was putting black tape in the place where light was squeezing out and shining on the front surface of the panel. I now think adding that tape really just squeezed the layers inside tighter together, removing gaps where light could travel around a layer (such as the diffuser) and shine on the back or edge of the liquid crystal panel (top layer).
> 
> So, in the end I think the biggest fixes for backlight bleed will be with modifications to the LCD panel assembly itself, and not the casing.
> 
> EDIT: you may still have a problem in your corners that's being masked by the angle you're shooting at. I suggest to you and anyone else doing this, to shoot 5 shots, one with the camera directly in-front of each corner, and one from straight in front, as you've done. That'll tell a lot about what's actually bleeding versus the LCD off-angle "shimmer" as I call it. Example pics coming...


Thanks for the info







Here you go, if this helps give a more accurate measurement of my backlight bleed:

Bottom left:


Top left:


Bottom right:


Top right:


----------



## Jboss

I'm from Canada and to buy the 24 AWG cable from monoprice alone has $8-$9 shipping, is it recommended to get that cable or are there any alternatives? If it's recommended then i'll just get it!

Thanks!


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> I'm from Canada and to buy the 24 AWG cable from monoprice alone has $8-$9 shipping, is it recommended to get that cable or are there any alternatives? If it's recommended then i'll just get it!
> 
> Thanks!


I got one, but it gave me scan lines/artifacts on the desktop at 120hz. I'm pretty sure it's the cable, since my other DVI cable only gives me scan lines in games at 120hz and not on the desktop. I bought this Monoprice cable to get rid of the scan lines altogether, but it could be my monitor as well. Another one is on the way for testing. If you have the money, I recommend buying 2 if you're worried about getting rid of scan lines or artifacts. HyperMatrix told me he has 2, and one is horrible for 120hz and the other is perfect.

The 24AWG is a snake though. It is thick and it will not bend easily. So if you're in tight spacing, you might want to go with the 28AWG. Should really be no difference bandwidth wise for 120hz, but I didn't want to take that chance and didn't mind having a bigger cable.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I got one, but it gave me scan lines/artifacts on the desktop at 120hz. I'm pretty sure it's the cable, since my other DVI cable only gives me scan lines in games at 120hz and not on the desktop. I bought this Monoprice cable to get rid of the scan lines altogether, but it could be my monitor as well. Another one is on the way for testing. If you have the money, I recommend buying 2 if you're worried about getting rid of scan lines or artifacts. HyperMatrix told me he has 2, and one is horrible for 120hz and the other is perfect.
> 
> The 24AWG is a snake though. It is thick and it will not bend easily. So if you're in tight spacing, you might want to go with the 28AWG. Should really be no difference bandwidth wise for 120hz, but I didn't want to take that chance and didn't mind having a bigger cable.


Just curious but how much is shipping over in the US at monoprice?


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Just curious but how much is shipping over in the US at monoprice?


It's like $7 and change for priority mail, and I could only choose that. Which is a bit meh, didn't have time to look for coupons for free shipping.


----------



## KuuFA

Depends on the weight of the package. I live in Texas and its about on avg $11 dollars for me.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> It's like $7 and change for priority mail, and I could only choose that. Which is a bit meh, didn't have time to look for coupons for free shipping.


Oh okay thanks, i tried looking for a free shipping coupon but i don't think exist.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you go, if this helps give a more accurate measurement of my backlight bleed:


The prognosis is really based on how well you take your pictures, so if the right top and bottom pictures truly are shot directly in front of the corners (kinda seems like they're not) then yeah, you got something going on. Try using your camera as a viewfinder in the dark and just move it around to see what angles are required to make the right two pics have less of that spherical corner-glow. If you can't find a way to position it a bit more correctly over the targets and minimize that glow, then you might have some corner bleed.

I have pics and vids still to come ...


----------



## Zero4549

The cable that came with my x-star works great. You guys shouldn't get so worked up about "_needing_" a new cable before you even test the one in the box. If it turns out the one you got is a dud, THEN look for an alternative.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> The cable that came with my x-star works great. You guys shouldn't get so worked up about "_needing_" a new cable before you even test the one in the box. If it turns out the one you got is a dud, THEN look for an alternative.


That's exactly what I was referring too. The cable out of my QNIX box was too short and scan lines were crazy. I tried another DVI cable I had lying around, and it was the best out of the ones I tried. Only a few scan lines at 120hz in games. The Monoprice one I just got has got scanlines AND artifacts on the desktop, and it's pretty bad at games too. Another Monoprice cable is coming , so I'll let you guys know how it is


----------



## nz_nails

Just revived my monitor and I was given a SL DVI cable not a DL has anyone else had this before?


----------



## dascth

*The (Not So?) Dummies Guide to Taking Pictures of Your Backlight Bleed*
(sorry videos and pics are so dark, view them in the dark I guess)

So check out this interesting video I just took of my monitor while using a polarized lens on my Sony NEX5:
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5NLGdxhAoDF5g9jJmwA8xF
Assuming the LCD panel is letting through vertically polarized light (up-down waves), which is just a guess, then when the lens filter is rotated to only let through horizontal light, ZERO light gets through and it appears black. Viewing the panel up close with the filter trying to block all light, what do you notice? It can't block the corner light as it's actually at a different phase. Only when I step farther away from the screen am I able to see that all light hitting my camera is at the same phase (approximately of course). This greater distance from the screen is the correct test scenario for checking for backlight bleed if you're only going to take a single picture.

So, a lot of backlight bleed isn't what we're talking about on here when we say "my monitor has really bad backlight bleed". Some of the light comes through even though we don't want it to, but only when viewed at angles. This is standard and unavoidable for LCD panels universally. Light coming straight out of the screen *should* all be at the same phase angle (think of an up-down wave or a left-right wave as examples of waves of light at different phases). This is because light of any other phase is blocked by the polarization filter in the screen. When viewing the screen from an angle (which is what you're doing when you're up close and looking around the edge of the screen), you can see light of a different phase (and more of it) passing through the LCD panel. This is what gives LCDs that annoying "shimmer" as you move your head around while looking at an LCD. Unless you have a plasma screen, CRT, or OLED panel for a computer monitor, just get used to it. So, you're not looking for backlight bleed (this out of phase light coming to your eye at an angle) from places you're viewing at an angle, you're looking for it from areas directly in front of your eye/camera.

So, below are some pictures to show the effect in action, but the rule is:

SHOOT FROM FAR AWAY, OR TAKE ENOUGH SHOTS TO SHOW EACH CORNER OR TROUBLE AREA CENTERED DEAD-ON TO THE CAMERA



Spoiler: The effect shooting angle has on the exact same corner of my monitor:










Spoiler: Each of the corners of my monitor when shot straight at each:



Very slight bleed only really seen in this first shot:









Spoiler: The effect of screen distance on false backlight bleed:



Shot up close at 19mm (APS-C sensor size)


Shot far away at 55mm (APS-C sensor size)




I don't have a great separate picture for this, but due to the R/G/B sub-pixel arrangement (I believe), you're going to see red or yellow colors from out of phase light from the right of the screen and blue or green light from the left side of the screen (unless you're somehow hanging from the ceiling or have mounted your monitor upside-down). As you can see from the pictures of my monitor, mine appears to have that nasty yellow bleed from the top right, but it's really only the standard out-of-phase light from corners, and is on the right side of the screen. It goes away once you view it straight-on.

I know this is a large post, but last thing, I promise...
Pinching of the screen or other issues that cause the "real" backlight bleed usually still use the effect described above to discolor the screen or add extra light, but it's visible even when viewed straight-on. That's the difference.

How to show real backlight bleed with a video (kinda crappy video though):


----------



## dascth

Accidentally posted my previous big post in the other massive thread first when I meant to put it here, so I posted it again here. If any moderators are "listening", sorry about the double-post.


----------



## TarAldarion

Anybody bought from green-sum, how are they?


----------



## miket5au

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> Anybody bought from green-sum, how are they?


I have but I haven't got my monitor yet. It has been marked as shipped but I do not have a tracking number. Mind you I bought it thursday afternoon Korean time and it is only monday!

So they may be fine but I have nothing to judge it by.


----------



## TarAldarion

Decided to buy the QNIX QX2710 matte (got green-sum to start selling matte on their ebay!) off them as they replied to me fast and I see people have used them well in the past (have bug them loads sometimes)
Which did you get? Link?


----------



## BradF1979

My QNIX 2710 will be here today...


----------



## miket5au

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> Decided to buy the QNIX QX2710 matte (got green-sum to start selling matte on their ebay!) off them as they replied to me fast and I see people have used them well in the past (have bug them loads sometimes)
> Which did you get? Link?


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140934439651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

No idea if it is glossy or matte!


----------



## TarAldarion

They said it will be random unless you specify one. I messaged them after my order to make sure mine was matte.


----------



## bouchnick

I have a defective Qnix monitor. Heavy light bleeding.

Here's a video: 




I emailed Bigclothcraft to return the screen and here's what he wants me to do.

I don't even understand half of his answer... Can anyone help me figuring this out?
Quote:


> Dear Bouchnick,
> 
> Hello
> 
> Thank you for your kind information and we are sorry for inconvenience.
> We are planning to contact manufacturer for this bad case and will see how they will handle this case.
> Please be sure about it.
> We need those information to send the manufacturer.
> 1. The name of the monitor
> 2. Product Serial Number.
> 3. The connect way of PC and monitor's
> 4. The name of PC Graphic Card
> 5. Front Imades or Video of the monitor
> - After you connect the monitor screen
> - OSD Button Color
> - Afer you connect the back of the monitor
> - Connected with PC
> - After you connect with Power and Adapter
> any explanation about the monitor not working properly.
> After you check those things,
> Please send me a images or video of the monitor.
> We will always try to do our best to help buyer's problem.
> I will hear from you.
> Thank you
> 
> - bigclothcraft


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah that's confusing. Just send him a bunch of pics in various "states" (one with just power connected, one with power and video cable but PC off, then with PC on, etc.) He is also interested in the color of the OSD button LED at various times, apparently.

Though, regardless, this is obviously just a canned request. But jump through his hoops; all you can do.


----------



## y2kcamaross

My glossy qnix arrived, I will be putting it head to head with my 2b glossy Catleap when I get off work, I'm excited!


----------



## jdmathew

I have a QNIX qx2710 but the panel is sitting to low in the bezel and the lower few lines of pixels are not visible. I'd like to simply reposition the screen but I cant find the option in NVIDIA control panel. Is there any way to correct this screen miss-position??? Thanks!


----------



## BradF1979

Got my QNIX as noted in the other thread today. I was very worried after I removed the foam wrapping from the box...



Luckily no damage to the monitor. No dead pixels, some blacklight bleed from what appears like is the panel being pushed on by the frame at a couple places... Not sure if this is fixable.

Overclocked to 120Hz fine using shipped cable, but noticed scan lines occasionally. LCD Reduced in CRG helped alleviate most of these, then checking 'Reduce DVI frequency on high-resolution displays' in CCC removed what I thought was all the rest. However after running Bioshock Infinite benchmark I noticed them again at the very top (like the top line only). I started to calibrate and noticed at gamme 1.35 I could see scan lines a lot all over the screen, but only at that gamma (very strange).

I ended up lowering it down to 96Hz where it seems absolutely fine. My 7870 can't push 120fps in any game anyway.

Here's a shot of my blacklight bleed...



That big thing in the middle is not some deformity, my office has TONS of windows and ambient light. It's just a matte reflection.


----------



## joarangoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmathew*
> 
> I have a QNIX qx2710 but the panel is sitting to low in the bezel and the lower few lines of pixels are not visible. I'd like to simply reposition the screen but I cant find the option in NVIDIA control panel. Is there any way to correct this screen miss-position??? Thanks!


Is this what you are looking for?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmathew*
> 
> I have a QNIX qx2710 but the panel is sitting to low in the bezel and the lower few lines of pixels are not visible. I'd like to simply reposition the screen but I cant find the option in NVIDIA control panel. Is there any way to correct this screen miss-position??? Thanks!


Mine had the same issue. I read up on how to change the screen positing in windows and found that nvidia users can, but AMD cant. So i opened up the monitor casing and added some 'shims' to raise the screen within the monitor case and it also stopped the panel play. Look up in the OP the spoiler drop-down "'wntrsnowg' mod solution to panel play and screen centering"


----------



## Strileckifunk

Came home to mine today!

Meh box.


Does this mean I recieved a pixel perfect? Because I didn't pay for it, but there are no dead pixels at all.


Everything it came with. Thankfully I have a million spare cables so no converter needed.


Colors really look great on this.


Aside from some minor bleeding in the bottom right corner, this thing is perfect! Haven't gotten around to playing with the color calibration or refresh overclocking, but I fired up some games and they look gorgeous. My 1080p side monitor looks atrocious now. Overall I'm very very very pleased with what I got, especially for the price
















Thanks to all the members of this club that answered my questions in another thread and pointed me here!


----------



## Jboss

^ Congrats!


----------



## kevosuki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> Colors really look great on this.
> 
> 
> Aside from some minor bleeding in the bottom right corner, this thing is perfect! Haven't gotten around to playing with the color calibration or refresh overclocking, but I fired up some games and they look gorgeous. My 1080p side monitor looks atrocious now. Overall I'm very very very pleased with what I got, especially for the price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all the members of this club that answered my questions in another thread and pointed me here!


That's a beautiful wallpaper! May I ask for a link?


----------



## Strileckifunk

http://wallpapersget.com/wallpapers/2012/05/star-explosion-nebula-hd-space-1440x2560.jpg

It looks a lot better in the picture haha.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Good place for wallpapers:

http://wallpaperswide.com/2560x1440-wallpapers-r.html

Ordered a glossy pixel perfect Qnix for 375$ from hulstar, shipped today.


----------



## kevosuki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> http://wallpapersget.com/wallpapers/2012/05/star-explosion-nebula-hd-space-1440x2560.jpg
> 
> It looks a lot better in the picture haha.


Thank you sir!


----------



## hamzatm

green sum glossy QX2710 had no customs charge, had one stuck pixel, does 120Hz fine, build quality tight and good.

excellent castle matte QX2710 got hit by customs, no dead or stuck pixels, does 120Hz better than the green sum one, the bezel is not as tight and there is some panel play going on.

Matte vs Glossy (I have a window right next to my monitor): the matte is very light tbh, it doesn't reduce glare much on a bright day (fuzzes the glare out but you can still see it and its still annoying) but does inhibit it overall and in the evenings etc. I didn't find it annoying although whites look hazier. Overall prefer the matte one! You won't care too much about the difference unless you have both monitors on at the same time or are extremely anal about these things.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> green sum glossy QX2710 had no customs charge, had one stuck pixel, does 120Hz fine, build quality tight and good.
> 
> excellent castle matte QX2710 got hit by customs, no dead or stuck pixels, does 120Hz better than the green sum one, the bezel is not as tight and there is some panel play going on.
> 
> Matte vs Glossy (I have a window right next to my monitor): the matte is very light tbh, it doesn't reduce glare much on a bright day (fuzzes the glare out but you can still see it and its still annoying) but does inhibit it overall and in the evenings etc. I didn't find it annoying although whites look hazier. Overall prefer the matte one! You won't care too much about the difference unless you have both monitors on at the same time or are extremely anal about these things.


How much did you get charged ordering from excellentcastle and which courier?


----------



## dir_d

Do people have something against the Glossy X-star's lol? The poll shows that no one has one.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dir_d*
> 
> Do people have something against the Glossy X-star's lol? The poll shows that no one has one.


Yeah, they've got a bug in them that makes them self-animate at night and kill your pets.


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Yeah, they've got a bug in them that makes them self-animate at night and kill your pets.


Good i just ordered one. Ive been trying to get rid of the wife's dang cats for years now.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dir_d*
> 
> Good i just ordered one. Ive been trying to get rid of the wife's dang cats for years now.










lol

yea thats wierd.... zero buyers of the x-star glossy


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> green sum glossy QX2710 had no customs charge, had one stuck pixel, does 120Hz fine, build quality tight and good.
> 
> excellent castle matte QX2710 got hit by customs, no dead or stuck pixels, does 120Hz better than the green sum one, the bezel is not as tight and there is some panel play going on.
> 
> Matte vs Glossy (I have a window right next to my monitor): the matte is very light tbh, it doesn't reduce glare much on a bright day (fuzzes the glare out but you can still see it and its still annoying) but does inhibit it overall and in the evenings etc. I didn't find it annoying although whites look hazier. Overall prefer the matte one! You won't care too much about the difference unless you have both monitors on at the same time or are extremely anal about these things.


How does one do 120Hz fine and one do it better? Does one have scan lines?


----------



## hellzlegend

Anyone else getting burn ins?
I'm getting them on the right side of the screen only. It only happens when I overclock though and goes away when I set it back to 60hz and wait a few minutes.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellzlegend*
> 
> Anyone else getting burn ins?
> I'm getting them on the right side of the screen only. It only happens when I overclock though and goes away when I set it back to 60hz and wait a few minutes.


Burn in isn't actually burn in on LCDs, I've been reading up on it. It will go away after a little while, or after you leave it on an all white screen and then all black screen for a little while. I say do nothing since it goes away on it's own; it's not permanent. It does happen more quickly on the dark cloudy area that shows up on the right side when overclocking. I don't know why, that's just the way it is.


----------



## BradF1979

I apparently missed the bit about using brightness 12 clicks from off when I first tried that 96hz ICC in the first post, but I just tried it again and it seems perfect. All the test images on misc websites and software I tried were right on...


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> How much did you get charged ordering from excellentcastle and which courier?


It was to the UK, and he sent it via UPS. Total cost was $320 ($20 was for shipping to the UK).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> How does one do 120Hz fine and one do it better? Does one have scan lines?


One has a slightly darker top right corner and overall the colour balance was a bit weirder, there were darker and lighter shades on the worse one, while the better one is much more uniform (still some dark bits though). Not a big difference by any means, don't think its noticeable in use.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Here is a fantastic 1440P wallpaper, well worth at least checking out on your display (if you are not a Game Of Thrones fan). You can see like every pore on Eddard's face and the level of detail on the pelt and his gloves is awesome. My display not here yet; basing this off my 27" iMac at work. Home at 1200P it looks like relative crap (of course but still striking).

http://wallbase.cc/wallpaper/1992486


----------



## wntrsnowg

Club members, be proud. We have inspired a Korean PLS Monitor Club on Hardforum!
*It is in the works here*

p.s. In the OP I added a list of some good wallpaper websites you guys have posted thus far


----------



## y2kcamaross

Mine is a monster, 138hz completely stable, 144hz with a few random lines


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Mine is a monster, 138hz completely stable, 144hz with a few random lines


Stock cable? Can you screenshot the entry in CRU?


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Mine is a monster, 138hz completely stable, 144hz with a few random lines


Very nice! Hopefully mine is like that when it comes. *crosses fingers*


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> It was to the UK, and he sent it via UPS. Total cost was $320 ($20 was for shipping to the UK).
> One has a slightly darker top right corner and overall the colour balance was a bit weirder, there were darker and lighter shades on the worse one, while the better one is much more uniform (still some dark bits though). Not a big difference by any means, don't think its noticeable in use.


You mentioned buying from excellentcastle that you got charged customs, how much was the customs/duties fees? I wasn't asking about the shipping fee!
I'm asking this because i ordered at excellentcastle also!

Cheers!


----------



## hamzatm

Oh sorry lol, customs was £60 on top


----------



## y2kcamaross

Anyone know how deep/what size the VESA mount screw holes are? The screws that came with my dual monitor ar that I've mounted mycatleap and various other monitors on are too long, I guess I could always just use lots of washers but I'd rather just buy the correct size screws


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Stock cable? Can you screenshot the entry in CRU?


I haven't even tried the cable the came with it I just used the one that my 1080p 120hz acre was using after I disconnected it, I'll screen shot it in a bit but I know the horizontal pixels are set to 2674 and the total vertical pixels are 1445, pixel clock is pushing 530+


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Oh sorry lol, customs was £60 on top


Did he undervalue/mark it as gift? 60 euros seems a lot if he did..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> *The (Not So?) Dummies Guide to Taking Pictures of Your Backlight Bleed*
> (sorry videos and pics are so dark, view them in the dark I guess)
> 
> So check out this interesting video I just took of my monitor while using a polarized lens on my Sony NEX5:
> http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5NLGdxhAoDF5g9jJmwA8xF
> Assuming the LCD panel is letting through vertically polarized light (up-down waves), which is just a guess, then when the lens filter is rotated to only let through horizontal light, ZERO light gets through and it appears black. Viewing the panel up close with the filter trying to block all light, what do you notice? It can't block the corner light as it's actually at a different phase. Only when I step farther away from the screen am I able to see that all light hitting my camera is at the same phase (approximately of course). This greater distance from the screen is the correct test scenario for checking for backlight bleed if you're only going to take a single picture.
> 
> So, a lot of backlight bleed isn't what we're talking about on here when we say "my monitor has really bad backlight bleed". Some of the light comes through even though we don't want it to, but only when viewed at angles. This is standard and unavoidable for LCD panels universally. Light coming straight out of the screen *should* all be at the same phase angle (think of an up-down wave or a left-right wave as examples of waves of light at different phases). This is because light of any other phase is blocked by the polarization filter in the screen. When viewing the screen from an angle (which is what you're doing when you're up close and looking around the edge of the screen), you can see light of a different phase (and more of it) passing through the LCD panel. This is what gives LCDs that annoying "shimmer" as you move your head around while looking at an LCD. Unless you have a plasma screen, CRT, or OLED panel for a computer monitor, just get used to it. So, you're not looking for backlight bleed (this out of phase light coming to your eye at an angle) from places you're viewing at an angle, you're looking for it from areas directly in front of your eye/camera.
> 
> So, below are some pictures to show the effect in action, but the rule is:
> SHOOT FROM FAR AWAY, OR TAKE ENOUGH SHOTS TO SHOW EACH CORNER OR TROUBLE AREA CENTERED DEAD-ON TO THE CAMERA
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The effect of screen distance on false backlight bleed:
> 
> 
> 
> Shot up close at 19mm (APS-C sensor size)
> 
> 
> Shot far away at 55mm (APS-C sensor size)


I added this to the OP under FAQ and the Monitor Help, Support area.

p.s. the Nex5 is a sick camera


----------



## apav

Guys help something horrible just happened, my screen flashed colors and turned off. I was able to turn it back on, but now I got massive burn in all over my screen. Here's a good example:





What just happened and can I fix it? I'm freaking out


----------



## Zero4549

I still don't understand all this talk about burn in. A PLS panel should _never_ burn in. It's not OLED, plasma, or CRT! Additionally, after using mine for almost a week now (leaving it on static screens for as long as 8 hours at a time) I still haven't noticed any burn-in-esque effect.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I still don't understand all this talk about burn in. A PLS panel should _never_ burn in. It's not OLED, plasma, or CRT! Additionally, after using mine for almost a week now (leaving it on static screens for as long as 8 hours at a time) I still haven't noticed any burn-in-esque effect.


Well it did leave a trail, I'm not sure if you can call it burn in but it produced the same effect where the trail was always ontop of whatever your screen is displaying. It wasn't a static image that was left on for hours, my monitor "crashed" where it pretty much melted into colors, I grabbed a photo before I shut it off:


The screen flashed a few colors, then all of the screen went black except for this section where these bars appeared. I shut it off, but it still left a ghost image as you can see here:



http://www.gribble.org/lcdfix/index.html is fixing it so I'm going to keep going. I was lucky to know what to do because time is critical after something like this, you can't let your screen sit and let it sink in!

But I'm wondering about why the monitor went crazy in the first place. I messaged hulustar since the monitor might be defective, but since the burn in is being fixed I don't know if the seller will want to replace it and cover shipping charges for something that has only happened once and may or may not be an issue. Same with square trade, I don't know if I should file a claim. They don't cover burn in's, but I think they meant preexisting defects. If a burn in was caused by a monitor going haywire first, maybe they will.

What should I do?







Thanks


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Well it did leave a trail, I'm not sure if you can call it burn in but it produced the same effect where the trail was always ontop of whatever your screen is displaying. It wasn't a static image that was left on for hours, my monitor "Crashed" where it pretty much melted into colors, I grabbed a photo before I shut it off:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The screen flashed a few colors, then all of the screen went black except for this section where these bars appeared. I shut it off, but it still left a ghost image as you can see in the last post on the previous page.
> 
> http://www.gribble.org/lcdfix/index.html is fixing it so I'm going to keep going. I was lucky to know what to do because time is critical after something like this, you can't let your monitor sit!


Oh lawd... this seems dangerous for the monitor if overclocking is causing these symptoms. A quick scan of your posts show you've been running it at 120hz? Maybe drop it to 96hz for the next few days and see if problems continue.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I still don't understand all this talk about burn in. A PLS panel should _never_ burn in. It's not OLED, plasma, or CRT! Additionally, after using mine for almost a week now (leaving it on static screens for as long as 8 hours at a time) I still haven't noticed any burn-in-esque effect.


Some of the new AH-IPS panels are prone to burn in (U2713HM and S2740L) as were some of the older IPS (pre-2008) monitors.


----------



## apav

Post edited for some important info. See above.

Progress:


It's still there a little bit but it can't be seen on the camera. So much difference between this and my previous photo. Only 30 minutes from the tool on that website and we're almost good again. Phew, I'm relieved, but still a little shaken up and worried for the future


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Some of the new AH-IPS panels are prone to burn in (U2713HM and S2740L) as were some of the older IPS (pre-2008) monitors.


Not really "burn-in" for those totally freaked out by the ideas that come to mind from that term:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_persistence


----------



## Zero4549

So.. has anyone with a poor overclocking monitor (as in scan lines or artifacts, not just "test failed" or similar at the driver level) tried opening up the case and putting some slim heatsinks on the PCB's components, or perhaps a small NB fan from a dead/obsolete mobo on the vents?


----------



## skutcho

I got a Matte X-Star DP2710. Got it from Ta_Planet which had a great rating and good reviews. Ordered on a Sunday and it arrived Wednesday morning to NYC. Box graphics are cheesy, stand is very cheap (all things we know), but the display is just about perfect! $315 shipped. Can't find a dead pixel, just about zero light bleed. The only possible thing I can find that would make it an A- monitor is the lower right corner seems to be "in" just slightly. Almost like the housing isn't quite flush with the screen, but it is. Other than that, this monitor is perfect in every way. I don't know how long it'll last, but I've used it every day for about 2 weeks and it is just great (knocking on wood). The other thing is ta_planet's prices seem to fluctuate with demand. I was going to order an Achieva Shimian for $298 from then, and then it was $359. Again, I couldn't be happier! It's a Samsung Series 9 from everything I can tell. Yes, I'll take a $1200 monitor for $315 anyway... even with a millimeter of shim on the lower right corner..


----------



## Jboss

Anyone here have their monitor shipped via UPS? If yes how much was the customs/duties fees?
I'm also wondering how you can self clear the package in order to save money from these fees but i would think the monitor will be here before i can do that due to the fast shipping hahaha.

Cheers.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Anyone here have their monitor shipped via UPS? If yes how much was the customs/duties fees?
> I'm also wondering how you can self clear the package in order to save money from these fees but i would think the monitor will be here before i can do that due to the fast shipping hahaha.
> 
> Cheers.


First things first, if you live in the US there is no custom fees between USA and SK. I myself have order a monitor from excellentcastle and he is shipping with UPS. I asked him to put a 40$ gift value because in Canada, there is no custom on gift <60$. Have you ask for a specific price when you bought your monitor? But, most of the time, they will put a low price on their paper like 30$ even if you didnt ask them


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ice-dragoon25*
> 
> First things first, if you live in the US there is no custom fees between USA and SK. I myself have order a monitor from excellentcastle and he is shipping with UPS. I asked him to put a 40$ gift value because in Canada, there is no custom on gift <60$. Have you ask for a specific price when you bought your monitor? But, most of the time, they will put a low price on their paper like 30$ even if you didnt ask them


I'm from Canada (ON) and i asked them to "mark the package as gift and low value" but i didn't really get a response saying specifically "yes we'll mark package low, etc".
Let's hope they put the value as $30! I've been hurt by UPS before and i'm afraid that might happen again.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> I'm from Canada (ON) and i asked them to "mark the package as gift and low value" but i didn't really get a response saying specifically "yes we'll mark package low, etc".
> Let's hope they put the value as $30! I've been hurt by UPS before and i'm afraid that might happen again.


The worst thing to happen, and I'm pretty confident that it wont happen, is if they will put a value like 80-100$ and you will pay federal tax of 5% and whatever taxes you have in ON (pretty sure its lower then Québec







) and others fees for custom. But don't worry, i'm pretty sure they put a 40-60$ mark. And i'm pretty sure UPS dont have the time to look at your package (which is cover by a proctective ''paper'') and say "hmm...that thing dont seem to worth 40$, let's investigate'' They will deliver the package, ask for your signature perharps and thats it, IMO


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snrcbpco*


I still want this background


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ice-dragoon25*
> 
> The worst thing to happen, and I'm pretty confident that it wont happen, is if they will put a value like 80-100$ and you will pay federal tax of 5% and whatever taxes you have in ON (pretty sure its lower then Québec
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and others fees for custom. But don't worry, i'm pretty sure they put a 40-60$ mark. And i'm pretty sure UPS dont have the time to look at your package (which is cover by a proctective ''paper'') and say "hmm...that thing dont seem to worth 40$, let's investigate'' They will deliver the package, ask for your signature perharps and thats it, IMO


Alright coolios, +rep!


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> So.. has anyone with a poor overclocking monitor (as in scan lines or artifacts, not just "test failed" or similar at the driver level) tried opening up the case and putting some slim heatsinks on the PCB's components, or perhaps a small NB fan from a dead/obsolete mobo on the vents?


Or just open it up and test all the stuff that didn't work before with a room fan blowing on it, or something so you don't have to attach anything to the board until you verify cooling some does help.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Or just open it up and test all the stuff that didn't work before with a room fan blowing on it, or something so you don't have to attach anything to the board until you verify cooling some does help.


Yeah that would be a logical first step. That or little fans on the exterior vents that you could remove later so you don't even have to open it. At any rate, I'd just like to see if cooling the components inside helps with overclocking these panels.

I got my first artifact today, just 3 yellow lines across the top of my screen for a single frame while gaming. I'm only running at 96hz and not the 130 that I was running up until 2 days ago when I pulled my 680 out for RMA. I also happen to be sick, so my window is closed and it's a lot warmer in my room than it would normally be.

I doubt it's a coincidence that my first overclocking issue (albeit an incredibly minor one) would happen on the same day that my room is hotter than it normally is, despite having a significantly less demanding overclock.

I'd stick a box fan behind my screen and find out myself, but since I've still only gotten the one brief single frame artifact, I wouldn't really be a very good test candidate. Especially since for all I know, it was a GPU artifact (since I'm running a GPU that is normally dedicated to physx).

Hopefully someone who consistently has artifacts or scan lines that they can certainly attribute to the monitor itself can give it a try! If $5 worth of small heatsinks and thermal tape can help people get significantly better/more stable overclocks, that would be fantastic (even if my personal panel doesn't seem to need it).


----------



## Rakky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> I still want this background


Found the image in lower-res, if you want to play around with some google searching (images.google.com -> click the little camera icon inside the search bar -> paste the URL of the picture/upload one from your computer -> ??? -> Profit):
http://img0.liveinternet.ru/images/attach/c/6/93/177/93177500_large_2795685_Graham_Gercken_1960___Australian_Impressionist_Landscape_painter__TuttArt_4.jpg

And here is what looks like the author of this picture's deviantart, I browsed through 3 pages in his gallery, there are some amazing looking ones in the same style, but couldn't find the exact one. I'm sure you'll find it if you look through it








http://artsaus.deviantart.com/gallery/


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakky*
> 
> Found the image in lower-res, if you want to play around with some google searching (images.google.com -> click the little camera icon inside the search bar -> paste the URL of the picture/upload one from your computer -> ??? -> Profit):
> http://img0.liveinternet.ru/images/attach/c/6/93/177/93177500_large_2795685_Graham_Gercken_1960___Australian_Impressionist_Landscape_painter__TuttArt_4.jpg
> 
> And here is what looks like the author of this picture's deviantart, I browsed through 3 pages in his gallery, there are some amazing looking ones in the same style, but couldn't find the exact one. I'm sure you'll find it if you look through it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://artsaus.deviantart.com/gallery/


Wow, thanks. I did try google image search, but just briefly, and when I didn't see a high res match right away, I just gave up.


----------



## un-nefer

Do all these models overclock - or is it like the Catleap and only a specific batch of these monitors can be overclocked?

Also, has anyone done an SMTT2 lag test on these yet?

I'm considering 3 of THESE in a portrait nvidia surround setup for sim racing.


----------



## hellzlegend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> Do all these models overclock - or is it like the Catleap and only a specific batch of these monitors can be overclocked?
> 
> Also, has anyone done an SMTT2 lag test on these yet?
> 
> I'm considering 3 of THESE in a portrait nvidia surround setup for sim racing.


both QNIX and X-STAR overclocks.


----------



## BradF1979

FWIW, I also think the overclocking is limited by heat. My monitor will do 120hz fine when I just turn it on, but after a while I start noticing scan lines occasionally. Normally like the top line of the screen when a window is maximized. I also noticed that the Slickdeals website was jumping around in it's frame at 120hz on occasion... Strangeness.


----------



## TarAldarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Got my QNIX as noted in the other thread today. I was very worried after I removed the foam wrapping from the box...
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily no damage to the monitor. No dead pixels, some blacklight bleed from what appears like is the panel being pushed on by the frame at a couple places... Not sure if this is fixable.
> 
> Overclocked to 120Hz fine using shipped cable, but noticed scan lines occasionally. LCD Reduced in CRG helped alleviate most of these, then checking 'Reduce DVI frequency on high-resolution displays' in CCC removed what I thought was all the rest. However after running Bioshock Infinite benchmark I noticed them again at the very top (like the top line only). I started to calibrate and noticed at gamme 1.35 I could see scan lines a lot all over the screen, but only at that gamma (very strange).
> 
> I ended up lowering it down to 96Hz where it seems absolutely fine. My 7870 can't push 120fps in any game anyway.
> 
> Here's a shot of my blacklight bleed...
> 
> 
> 
> That big thing in the middle is not some deformity, my office has TONS of windows and ambient light. It's just a matte reflection.


What is LCD reduced inCRG? And what is CCC? catalyst control centre?


----------



## BradF1979

CCC is Catalyst Control Center. CRU is custom resolution utility you must use to overclock the monitor. LCD reduced is an option in that to lower some sort of scanning values so you can run 120hz with less issues.


----------



## TarAldarion

Thanks that's great.


----------



## miket5au

My QNIX arrived today (tuesday) - ordered thursday so five days from order to arrival!

As far as I can tell there are no dead or stuck pixels (I used UDPixel to check and I couldn't see any). I can't see any backlight bleed but I don't use it in the dark and I am not going out og my way to check (as what I don't see won't bother me!).

Tested a few games and 1920x1200 is scaled to fit (with black bars left and right!). So even if my 5870 isn't up to 2560x1440 for some games it won't be a hardship to play them at a lower resolution.

I have not rebooted or shutdown as the monitor came on at 2560x1440 as soon as it was pugged in.

Still don't know if it is glossy or matte!


----------



## RagingAzn628

How does this monitor compare to the

27" Monoprice IPS CrystalPro 2560x1440 LED Monitor $366 + Shipping ?

I just bought the XStar one for $280

Also how do you overclock a monitor to 120hz


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miket5au*
> 
> My QNIX arrived today (tuesday) - ordered thursday so five days from order to arrival!
> 
> As far as I can tell there are no dead or stuck pixels (I used UDPixel to check and I couldn't see any). I can't see any backlight bleed but I don't use it in the dark and I am not going out og my way to check (as what I don't see won't bother me!).
> 
> Tested a few games and 1920x1200 is scaled to fit (with black bars left and right!). So even if my 5870 isn't up to 2560x1440 for some games it won't be a hardship to play them at a lower resolution.
> 
> I have not rebooted or shutdown as the monitor came on at 2560x1440 as soon as it was pugged in.
> 
> Still don't know if it is glossy or matte!


No bleed or dead pixels on a $300 1440p monitor? You should sound way happier!


----------



## miket5au

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> No bleed or dead pixels on a $300 1440p monitor? You should sound way happier!


Sorry - after spending an hour getting it on my dersk I was relieved it worked at all! My old monitor was attached to a monitor arm and the cable that comes with the QNIX was only long enougth if I placed it where the old monitor was!

I am really pleased. Honest!


----------



## exvarkin

Joining the club soon, just ordered a qnix from hulustar


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Info such as how to OC is in the first post. There is also a FAQ there.


----------



## CptKuolio

My first post on the forums, I was lured here by the buzz around QNix displays. Mine arrived today, Qnix Glossy pixel perfect from DreamSeller and the shipment from South Korea to Finland took exactly one week.

Mine is one of them "super" overclockers, I can go to 140Hz w/o any anomalities in the picture except the fact that screen becomes darker. @144Hz I get two distinct horizontal lines. I am now running at 120Hz with GTX 670 SLI. I have only very small amount of backlight bleed on lower mid part of the screen; it is too small to care about so I think I dont have to take the bezel apart.

Total cost of the display + pixel perfect + fedex fee for customs clearance + customs + VAT is about 300 euros. Very good price for a monitor with this good picture and refresh-rate! Thanks everyone here on overclockers, w/o you guys noticing this I would not be a super happy Qnix-owner now









Thanks for the OP, I have used the color profiles on the first post. Really nice job collecting all the usefull stuff to one place!

Here is a pic I took with my mobile phone of the screen while OC'ing, yes yes I do know how to take a SS on windows but CBA as I am making a small review on a finnish computer forums abt the screen









https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/65094004/2013-04-30%2014.59.26.jpg

P.S. Lots of other good stuff on OCN, I'm sure to keep on rolling to other threads after this crase cools down a bit







Now of to play some games, and check out how my rig fares with this baby


----------



## wntrsnowg

Nice! Welcome to ocn! Many of us in these qnix threads are new, so you're in good company

144 hz might be the highest OC I've heard of yet


----------



## apav

Monitor appears to be good again, thanks guys! I'll hold off on trying to get it replaced if it doesn't happen again. So my next question is I saw someome post that they ticked "Reduce DVI frequency on high-resolution displays" in CCC and the scan lines were reduced, and it worked! I'm curious what that and "Alternate DVI operational mode" really do.

I found this post by ToastyX:
Quote:


> "Reduce DVI frequency on high-resolution displays" probably has no effect on most monitors. Back when video cards, monitors, and cables could barely handle the full single-link DVI bandwidth, some people were having signal quality problems with 1600x1200 monitors like the Dell 2001FP. 1600x1200 @ 60 Hz without reduced blanking is close to the single-link DVI limit of 165 MHz, so that option would use the CVT reduced blanking standard to reduce the pixel clock to around 130 MHz to get a more stable signal, similar to how we reduce the timing parameters to get a better overclock. Nowadays, most LCD monitors use CVT reduced blanking by default (or EIA/CEA-861 for 1080p), so that option wouldn't have any effect. It should be left off so it doesn't mess with the timing parameters.
> 
> "Alternate DVI operational mode" is coherent mode, meaning the clock and data are synchronized. Originally, DVI was non-coherent because the clock multiplier caused a delay in the clock signal that needed to be compensated for at the receiving end. This caused problems when using longer cables because the length affected the delay. Nowadays, everything is designed to use coherent signals for better stability, so this option should be left on. It shouldn't be turned off unless you're using an older non-coherent display.


Well, Reduce DVI frequency on high-res displays did something for me and other QNIX overclockers. It reduced my scan lines by a significant amount. I didn't really experience any difference with Alternate DVI operational mode (it does nothing to the scan lines) so I'm wondering why Toasty recommends it to always be on. With the first option on, I'm able to play games at 120hz with an occasional scan line here or there maybe once a minute. Not bad. Can I reduce the timings further to get rid of those few last ones? I don't really know what reducing the timing does. Does reducing them come at a cost for somewhere else?

Thanks









Edit: The color flashing just happened again. I was browsing OCN then it flashed colors at me for a millisecond (it was so quick I could not make them out) and then the screen where I was with OCN came back. This all happened in much less than a second, so quick for me to describe what happened, but enough for me to realize it did happen.

The colors flashing reminds me of what happens if you're looking at a monitor's screen when you pull the DVI cable out. But I don't think it's my cable, I just got a new monoprice one (bought another one) and it's securely in each port.... I really don't know what's wrong









Edit again: Found an example of what it looks like when the screen flashes. Not my monitor but I'm pretty sure it's like this, because of the ghost image left on my monitor last night:


So for a split second the image goes to that, and then my screen comes back up. So far it's happened twice. Nothing to do with overclocking I think, when I'm not trying to get a solid 120hz I leave my monitor at 60hz.


----------



## kevosuki

Hi everyone. My new QX2710 arrived today. I set everything up immediately and started overclocking to 120hz. I noticed that there's a single vertical line that shows up, so I lower my overclock to 75hz and it still shows up. Here's a picture of it


It doesn't show up when i'm running stock 60hz but that's no fun.

I tried different DVI cables, ports, securing all dvi ports, etc..

EDIT: I just did some more testing. It is there but extremely faint at any past 65hz. It gets worse as I up the hertz.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Going to fish the thread for info, seems to be great monitors....


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Did he undervalue/mark it as gift? 60 euros seems a lot if he did..


Yes he marked it as $50 dunno about gift. They obviously revalued it themselves.

Customs was way high at £60 (about $100) including duty and their fees. I doubt you can get it cleared yourself, UPS does it super quick so that there is no delivery delay, you don't even know until they arrive. I took the customs charge at the door.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptKuolio*
> 
> My first post on the forums, I was lured here by the buzz around QNix displays. Mine arrived today, Qnix Glossy pixel perfect from DreamSeller and the shipment from South Korea to Finland took exactly one week.
> 
> Mine is one of them "super" overclockers, I can go to 140Hz w/o any anomalities in the picture except the fact that screen becomes darker. @144Hz I get two distinct horizontal lines. I am now running at 120Hz with GTX 670 SLI. I have only very small amount of backlight bleed on lower mid part of the screen; it is too small to care about so I think I dont have to take the bezel apart.
> 
> Total cost of the display + pixel perfect + fedex fee for customs clearance + customs + VAT is about 300 euros. Very good price for a monitor with this good picture and refresh-rate! Thanks everyone here on overclockers, w/o you guys noticing this I would not be a super happy Qnix-owner now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the OP, I have used the color profiles on the first post. Really nice job collecting all the usefull stuff to one place!
> 
> Here is a pic I took with my mobile phone of the screen while OC'ing, yes yes I do know how to take a SS on windows but CBA as I am making a small review on a finnish computer forums abt the screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/65094004/2013-04-30%2014.59.26.jpg
> 
> P.S. Lots of other good stuff on OCN, I'm sure to keep on rolling to other threads after this crase cools down a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now of to play some games, and check out how my rig fares with this baby


Nice, I can get all the way up to 147 without any anomalies in windows, and wont black screen until 168, but in games they highest I can get is 138 :/


----------



## Strileckifunk

At 120 I get faint blue lines across the screen. Dropped it down to 100 and everything seems ok. Does that sound like something that can be caused by the cable?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> At 120 I get faint blue lines across the screen. Dropped it down to 100 and everything seems ok. Does that sound like something that can be caused by the cable?


Sounds like a pixel clock limit to me, are you using standard timings?


----------



## Strileckifunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Sounds like a pixel clock limit to me, are you using standard timings?


I am. All I adjusted was the refresh rate.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> I am. All I adjusted was the refresh rate.


well then you can surely get at least a 120hz stable refresh rate, in CRU go to manual timings, adjust your horizontal front porch to 60, sync width to 48, backporch to somewhere between 32-40, blanking is fine at whatever its set at, total should be 27xx, veritcal timings should be front porch 2, sync width should be 3, back porch should be 5, total should be 1450, then change the refresh rate to 120 and hit okay, then reboot, and see if that works


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> well then you can surely get at least a 120hz stable refresh rate, in CRU go to manual timings, adjust your horizontal front porch to 60, sync width to 48, backporch to somewhere between 32-40, blanking is fine at whatever its set at, total should be 27xx, veritcal timings should be front porch 2, sync width should be 3, back porch should be 5, total should be 1450, then change the refresh rate to 120 and hit okay, then reboot, and see if that works


Thanks for this post, I'm going to try 120Hz again when I get home using these settings. Using LCD Reduced it was working for me with occasional scan line on Windows Desktop...

Are these just the LCD Reduced settings or are they taking into account more adjustments than that?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Thanks for this post, I'm going to try 120Hz again when I get home using these settings. Using LCD Reduced it was working for me with occasional scan line on Windows Desktop...
> 
> Are these just the LCD Reduced settings or are they taking into account more adjustments than that?


i personally use horizontal front porch 48, sync width 32, back porch 30, blanking 110 and total 2670
veritcal front porch 1, sync width 1, back porch 3, blanking 5 and total 1445, but i the ones I gave you are a bit looser so should have an easier time with those


----------



## BradF1979

Thanks again. How do those values affect the monitor refresh? Is it really running at 120hz when you decrease those values?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Thanks again. How do those values affect the monitor refresh? Is it really running at 120hz when you decrease those values?


yes, the values they have are default, but there are no default values really because there are no monitors that you can buy out of the box that can do 1440p at 120hz, you can alter them, if you go too low you will just black screen


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Wow it got here in like 2 days. Hulustar to Chicago downtown.


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Wow it got here in like 2 days. Hulustar to Chicago downtown.


Yea hes good with shipping, Mines out for delivery right now 2 days from South Korea to Modesto Cali.


----------



## Strileckifunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> well then you can surely get at least a 120hz stable refresh rate, in CRU go to manual timings, adjust your horizontal front porch to 60, sync width to 48, backporch to somewhere between 32-40, blanking is fine at whatever its set at, total should be 27xx, veritcal timings should be front porch 2, sync width should be 3, back porch should be 5, total should be 1450, then change the refresh rate to 120 and hit okay, then reboot, and see if that works


This turns the lines white.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> This turns the lines white.


Try different timings if those dont work for you, look on 120hz.net, theres an entire thread devoted to timings that people use for their OC catleaps


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Wow it got here in like 2 days. Hulustar to Chicago downtown.


Thats impressive. Mine took 2 days from SK to san diego, CA. But I thought that was fast just because I live on the coast


----------



## Zero4549

One of you guys with artifact / scan line issues should really try running with some form of enhanced cooling and see if that helps. Even if said "enhanced cooling" is just putting a box fan behind the monitor, removing the back plastic cover, or just cranking up the AC in your room.

I have a feeling it will help both more stable overclocks, _and_ less "burn in".

Speaking of which, I've been thinking of the "burn in" people keep mentioning, and as I've mentioned before, it just doesn't make any sense... but then I realized that's because it's _not_ burn in, it just looks similar. It likely has more to do with the controller board than the panel itself.

At any rate, despite my finding that my 680L was far more capable of overclocking this panel than my 560Ti, I still haven't been getting artifacts, scan lines, crashes, or "burn in" like effects, aside from a single frame with a tiny artifact when my room was _really_ hot. In general I try to keep my room fairly cool. So... do the speculative math yourselves, and give my theory a shot.

If it turns out the PCB just needs better cooling, there are some self-adhering 5 and 2mm tall heatsinks you can pick up on frozencpu and xoxide for dirt cheap to fix the issue for good


----------



## dir_d

Yay, my Glossy X-Star just showed up here at work. Guess im the first guy with one.


----------



## Zero4549

Just took a quick measurement of the exhaust vents on my overclocked x-star (settings shown in above post). As I said, room temp is 69 degrees F. The exhausts range from 81F to 100F. There is definitely some localized heat buildup going on in there.

If anyone is brave enough to crack their panel open and run it overclocked with the back off, some temps of the actual components compared to ambient could be real useful.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Just took a quick measurement of the exhaust vents on my overclocked x-star (settings shown in above post). As I said, room temp is 69 degrees F. The exhausts range from 81F to 100F. There is definitely some localized heat buildup going on in there.
> 
> If anyone is brave enough to crack their panel open and run it overclocked with the back off, some temps of the actual components compared to ambient could be real useful.


You should try checking the temperature before oc and after oc with the same time gap, to see the difference.


----------



## BradF1979

Couple of questions...

If I don't watch movies on my computer except YouTube, do I need to worry about the 24fps multiplier for smoothness?

Is there any application that will keep my monitor at 60hz when at the desktop, only bumping it to 120hz when gaming? I went back and forth between 60, 96, 120 Hz and I really can't tell much difference with my mouse cursor. Maybe it's my eyes, I'm not sure. I was so concerned I ran that Pixel Clock Utility to make sure the boxes lit up smoothly to verify I was really running at the specified Hz.

Those with overclocked monitors, are you using Vsync? Are you using D3DOverrider to force Triple Buffers with VSync in DirectX games?

Thanks!


----------



## hellzlegend

The thing with the 'burn in' effect I am seeing with my monitor is that I can also see some flickering on the right side of the panel that has the burn in look.
It seems this happens only when I overclock it.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ice-dragoon25*
> 
> You should try checking the temperature before oc and after oc with the same time gap, to see the difference.


Good idea, setting it to 60hz now, lets give it a few min and see.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Couple of questions...
> 
> If I don't watch movies on my computer except YouTube, do I need to worry about the 24fps multiplier for smoothness?
> 
> Is there any application that will keep my monitor at 60hz when at the desktop, only bumping it to 120hz when gaming? I went back and forth between 60, 96, 120 Hz and I really can't tell much difference with my mouse cursor. Maybe it's my eyes, I'm not sure. I was so concerned I ran that Pixel Clock Utility to make sure the boxes lit up smoothly to verify I was really running at the specified Hz.
> 
> Those with overclocked monitors, are you using Vsync? Are you using D3DOverrider to force Triple Buffers with VSync in DirectX games?
> 
> Thanks!


Not as far as I know, sorry. As for the movies, if you're running at 60, 96, or 120 as you stated, all of those values are already multiples.

That reminds me though, what's that little utility I keep seeing people post screens of with all the big grey boxes than light up in sequence to test refresh rate and pixel response times? I can't seem to find it. I guess I'm ******ed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellzlegend*
> 
> The thing with the 'burn in' effect I am seeing with my monitor is that I can also see some flickering on the right side of the panel that has the burn in look.
> It seems this happens only when I overclock it.


That sort of supports my theory that the "burn in" isn't really burn it at all, and is in reality a manifestation of an unstable overclock at the controller PCB level. Can you try improving your cooling with a box fan, removal of the rear plastic cover, some heatsinks, stronger AC, etc?


----------



## Zero4549

Ok, the room ambient is now a few degrees cooler at 67 (AC in my building isn't working, so I just have to live with the flux) but still fairly close.

The exhausts now range from 78 to 94 degrees. Interestingly, the hottest point is no longer in the same spot (previous hot point was near the center, it is now at the right side).

You can see the timestamp of the posts yourself, so draw conclusions from this as you will. (it's been about an hour for anyone reading this late)


----------



## cor35vet

It is the display: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_persistence
Nothing to do with the control pcb.
And cooling the display controler would not really help with overclocking.


----------



## Jinru

Hey guys, I'm having trouble with overclocking.

I'm running a GTX560ti 448 with 314.22 drivers.

When I try to apply the NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher, all the limits are found and I apply the patch. I then restart my PC but my resolution has reverted to 800x600 and I can't find my Nvidia Control Panel. I have to unpatch and restart for my drivers to appear.


----------



## Cwinston

Just got mine today, 1 stuck pixel on the left side, and noticeable back light bleeding on the bottom right. Here's a pic


What do you think my options are? Is it bad enough to message the seller (hulustar), or try to open it up?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm having trouble with overclocking.
> 
> I'm running a GTX560ti 448 with 314.22 drivers.
> 
> When I try to apply the NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher, all the limits are found and I apply the patch. I then restart my PC but my resolution has reverted to 800x600 and I can't find my Nvidia Control Panel. I have to unpatch and restart for my drivers to appear.


I think the pixel clock patch is only for AMD users. Nvidia doesn't have a driver-restricted clock limit that AMD has


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwinston*
> 
> Just got mine today, 1 stuck pixel on the left side, and noticeable back light bleeding on the bottom right. Here's a pic
> 
> 
> What do you think my options are? Is it bad enough to message the seller (hulustar), or try to open it up?


Try pushing and bending that spot a bit, play with it.
You'll notice that you can get it away. Rip that **** open.
I still run mine open, had the same amount of bleed like you did. Now I have 0 bleeding.
1 dead pixel on the bottom left aswell here. Can't see it on normal viewing distance.


----------



## Strileckifunk

So after having my refresh at 100 for a couple of hours today I'm now experiencing the "burn-in". I dropped back to 60 and left everything off for a couple hours while I ran errands. Came back and it's still there


----------



## redxmaverick

My friend has a Overlord Tempest OC version. When OC'ed to 120hz, the overlord has a loud "coil whine" sound. Also particularly noticeable when on a blank white document or blank white browser page.

Does the Qnix have this whining sound when overclocked? I mean I wear headphones when gaming so that won't be an issue while gaming but when I"m doing other tasks I don't wear headphones.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redxmaverick*
> 
> My friend has a Overlord Tempest OC version. When OC'ed to 120hz, the overlord has a loud "coil whine" sound. Also particularly noticeable when on a blank white document or blank white browser page.
> 
> Does the Qnix have this whining sound when overclocked? I mean I wear headphones when gaming so that won't be an issue while gaming but when I"m doing other tasks I don't wear headphones.


No. Mine does not have it.
I also haven't read here that anyone else has it.
This monitor has a external power brick and doesn't have any coils inside anyways.

The "burn in" goes away pretty quick on mine. Just leave it on a white page for some minutes if you're that concerned about it.


----------



## Cwinston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> Try pushing and bending that spot a bit, play with it.
> You'll notice that you can get it away. Rip that **** open.
> I still run mine open, had the same amount of bleed like you did. Now I have 0 bleeding.
> 1 dead pixel on the bottom left aswell here. Can't see it on normal viewing distance.


I've never tried to open a monitor before. How difficult will the job be, and what kind of tools do I need before starting?


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwinston*
> 
> I've never tried to open a monitor before. How difficult will the job be, and what kind of tools do I need before starting?


A guy posted some videos in the other thread (I think it was the other one) and I made a picture with all the clips aswell.
It really isn't hard.
Just unscrew the 4 screws on the back and take a flat thing like a canopener or a butter knife and try loosening the front from the back.
I haven't damaged anything while doing so.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwinston*
> 
> I've never tried to open a monitor before. How difficult will the job be, and what kind of tools do I need before starting?


A flat head screwdriver or similar flat edged hard rubber or plastic thing would work. You can look at the videos for help that are posted in the OP, or there is a picture in the OP under wntrsnowg mod. It isn't really that hard, just pry at the certain clip points around the monitor casing edge and it comes apart.

edit: picture showing the clip locations
http://i.imgur.com/8CFO6zh.jpg


----------



## sammysamsam

Is there a reason for the price difference between x-star and qnix? It seems they both have the same pixel policies and shipping so dont know why there is a big price difference between the two? Anyone know?


----------



## Jinru

I think my QNIX might be a lemon. I can't even get 72hz. Here's what I've done.

-patched with DSEO13b
-installed Catleap driver
-patched with NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher
-made multiple 1440p profiles using CRU for 72hz, 80hz, and 96hz.
I restarted on every step.

Any overclocking produces yellow scan lines throughout the screen.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> I think my QNIX might be a lemon. I can't even get 72hz. Here's what I've done.
> 
> -patched with DSEO13b
> -installed Catleap driver
> -patched with NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher
> -made multiple 1440p profiles using CRU for 72hz, 80hz, and 96hz.
> I restarted on every step.
> 
> Any overclocking produces yellow scan lines throughout the screen.


!!!

Can you get to 66hz?


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> !!!
> 
> Can you get to 66hz?


66hz doesn't worth either.

I don't know if it matters but I'm using a thick 10 ft. long dual link DVI-D cable from newegg. The damn stock cable that came with the monitor was a single link...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> 66hz doesn't worth either.
> 
> I don't know if it matters but I'm using a thick 10 ft. long dual link DVI-D cable from newegg. The damn stock cable that came with the monitor was a single link...


65hz?


----------



## Microtom

My X-Star just died, I need help. The led doesn't light up, nothing happens. I wasn't there when it stopped working, and I don't remember if I left it opened or turned off. It was working 3 hours ago. Usually when it's turned off the led is orange. Now there's just no lights at all.

It was OCed at 90hz and was working perfectly the last few days. Could it be the power adapter tho? There seem to be a led on it and it's not lit, but I don't know if it was before.


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Microtom*
> 
> My X-Star just died, I need help. The led doesn't light up, nothing happens. I wasn't there when it stopped working, and I don't remember if I left it opened or turned off. It was working 3 hours ago. Usually when it's turned off the led is orange. Now there's just no lights at all.
> 
> It was OCed at 90hz and was working perfectly the last few days. Could it be the power adapter tho? There seem to be a led on it and it's not lit, but I don't know if it was before.


LED should be lit on your adapter...


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> A guy posted some videos in the other thread (I think it was the other one) and I made a picture with all the clips aswell.
> It really isn't hard.
> Just unscrew the 4 screws on the back and take a flat thing like a canopener or a butter knife and try loosening the front from the back.
> I haven't damaged anything while doing so.


it's not actually coil whine, it's the capacitors I believe vibrating, you can fix it by dampening them with some adhesive, but as far as I know the qnix don't have this problem


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah and an external AC adapter is always suspect in such a situation, LED or no. So likely that is it. Ill state the obvious and say hopefully, too.


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> 65hz?


I don't see a point in attempting to go any lower. Its a shame, but I guess that's the luck of the draw..


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> I don't see a point in attempting to go any lower. Its a shame, but I guess that's the luck of the draw..


Seems odd that you are the only one not being able to overclock, did you just get it today? Maybe they've already changed batches/pcbs

Have you tried it without the pixel clock patcher, you shouldn't need that


----------



## radian8

Hey Everyone,
First post on the boards







Just had a Qnix arrive from Hulustar and it looks stunning, but i've noticed something. I wondering if someone else could take a look at theirs and see if it's doing the same.

If you bring up steam with the standard skin and have a look at your library list of games, non installed games are grey and installed games are white.
When looking at the non installed games you can see that the text is shimmering/flickering against the black background, I had this checked with my fiancée who said that it looked like it was skipping/flickering as well.
It gives you bloody sore eyes that's for sure

The best way to see it is to look at some other text that is near the grey text of a non installed game and you'll see the shimmer, it's really horrible.

This is at 2560x1440 @60hz/96hz/110hz etc...

I'm hoping this is a cable issue as i've got another DVI dual link cable on it's way. Just wanted to check with other people to see if they have encountered it before









And also a big thanks to the OC.net community for all the help in regards to the PLS screens and helping me and many other NZ'ers decide which screen to get


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Seems odd that you are the only one not being able to overclock, did you just get it today? Maybe they've already changed batches/pcbs
> 
> Have you tried it without the pixel clock patcher, you shouldn't need that


Yup, just arrived today. 0 dead/stuck pixels, but with backlight bleed on bottom corners.

I tried it without the pixel clock patch afterwards as well and it was the same result.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> It is the display: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_persistence
> Nothing to do with the control pcb.
> And cooling the display controler would not really help with overclocking.


So you're trying to tell me that the actual panel itself is crashing, and not the controller?

That doesn't make any sense to me. The pixels just display what they are told. Why would they all just uniformly stop at the same seemingly random time? Surely if it was the panel itself crashing, you would have some of it working and some of it not working, at least at first.

I find it hard to believe that every single pixel is 100% equal across an entire panel, but different panels vary wildly, considering they're all cut from the same sheets. It's much more likely that a single chip in the circuit board is malfunctioning, changing the signal as a whole before it even reaches the panel.

I'm not saying that once you get to that point, that there isn't any image persistence in the panel itself, but that's a symptom, not a cause.


----------



## wntrsnowg

That's some bad news... Maybe it has something to do with the drivers being messed up from trying to patch the nvidia driver. Try full driver wipe including registry clean and reinstall?


----------



## bhazard451

Reseat the cabling inside. If it isn't that, then do a return.


----------



## Cwinston

Is electrical tape the surefire way to fix back light bleed? Are there alternative methods if one doesn't work?

Also, the stuck pixel I found earlier might have a neighbour. It's weird because they're both red, but one only appears on a white background, and the other only appears on a black background.


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> That's some bad news... Maybe it has something to do with the drivers being messed up from trying to patch the nvidia driver. Try full driver wipe including registry clean and reinstall?


Reinstalled and updated Nvidia drivers to 320 followed by a registry clean. Only applied the Catleap driver and attempted to OC using Nvidia control panel. Nada. I tried it give the pixel clock patcher another shot. Nada.


----------



## dir_d

Heres my Glossy X-Star bleed through, I have no stuck pixels that i can see so far though. Havent tried overclocking yet. Anything i can do about the top right corner? or should i just be happy?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwinston*
> 
> Is electrical tape the surefire way to fix back light bleed? Are there alternative methods if one doesn't work?
> 
> Also, the stuck pixel I found earlier might have a neighbour. It's weird because they're both red, but one only appears on a white background, and the other only appears on a black background.


Stuck is not dead (e.g. black). There are 'LCD tests' on the web that probably have a good chance of unsticking them (as could normal use).

As for the tape it's pretty much the only thing you can do. I'd use it for awhile first and see if you really notice it day-to-day.


----------



## SEALBoy

How long after ordering from hulustar did you guys get tracking info? It's been 24 hours since I ordered mine, and I have a tracking number but when I go to DHL's website it doesn't recognize it.


----------



## JQuantum

I just noticed that m monitor has some weird "burn in" like problems for grey/bluish colors. The pixels are a lot darker but not completely dark and it's only for grey colors, it's something I can deal with but I wonder if i open and readjust the monitor if it'll fix it.

When using http://www.ledr.com/colours/multi.htm for example it looks like 
but every other color is perfectly fine.

Note: my phone is making things look very "cool"


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Seems odd that you are the only one not being able to overclock, did you just get it today? *Maybe they've already changed batches/pcbs*
> 
> Have you tried it without the pixel clock patcher, you shouldn't need that


Hopefully that's not the case, why change something that's selling like hotcakes!?
I personally think he must be doing something wrong or got a rotten lemon.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SEALBoy*
> 
> How long after ordering from hulustar did you guys get tracking info? It's been 24 hours since I ordered mine, and I have a tracking number but when I go to DHL's website it doesn't recognize it.


Hell mine showed up from hulustar before I even thought to look for tracking (2 days). And DHL sucks so that doesn't surprise me. Relax; it's been a day.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SEALBoy*
> 
> How long after ordering from hulustar did you guys get tracking info? It's been 24 hours since I ordered mine, and I have a tracking number but when I go to DHL's website it doesn't recognize it.


Mine took overnight. It updated a ton of information in a burst after 8 hours or so

p.s., the Club hit over 50 members today!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> I don't see a point in attempting to go any lower. Its a shame, but I guess that's the luck of the draw..


The Catleaps that were produced after the initial batch maxed out at around 65-67 hz. Just trying to see if you can do even minimal overclocking.


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The Catleaps that were produced after the initial batch maxed out at around 65-67 hz. Just trying to see if you can do even minimal overclocking.


I see. 65hz doesn't work either. I can slightly see blue scan lines. 64hz worked.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Hopefully that's not the case, why change something that's selling like hotcakes!?
> I personally think he must be doing something wrong or got a rotten lemon.


I would love to know I'm doing something wrong here.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Well, I don't understand UPS logistic at all... The package was at Canal Lachine (in Montréal)...and goes to Kentucky... you were almost there just 3 hours by car! oh well, i'm suppose to have it today


----------



## CptKuolio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I think the pixel clock patch is only for AMD users. Nvidia doesn't have a driver-restricted clock limit that AMD has


This is true for single card users. SLI has pixel-clock limit, effectively you can OC with SLI to 100Hz but anything above needs pixel clock patching. Found this out yesterday the 'hardway' while OCing with 670-SLI









This info could be added to the starting posts OC-info. There have been some questions about it on the other thread.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ice-dragoon25*
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I don't understand UPS logistic at all... The package was at Canal Lachine (in Montréal)...and goes to Kentucky... you were almost there just 3 hours by car! oh well, i'm suppose to have it today


That sucks haha.

Did you request the seller to mark it as a certain value/gift? (List how much if yes!)
Is this your second monitor you ordered? I recall that you helped answer my question regarding UPS and what not.

Waiting impatiently for my tracking # to update so i can call UPS and put my credit on file so that the customs/duties fees are reduced.. At least that's what i heard happens lol.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptKuolio*
> 
> This is true for single card users. SLI has pixel-clock limit, effectively you can OC with SLI to 100Hz but anything above needs pixel clock patching. Found this out yesterday the 'hardway' while OCing with 670-SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This info could be added to the starting posts OC-info. There have been some questions about it on the other thread.


So do sli nvidia users use the same clock patch as amd single card users, the amd pixel clock patch that is already in the op? I remember reading somewhere that people had issues with oc on sli or crossfire setups


----------



## CptKuolio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> So do sli nvidia users use the same clock patch as amd single card users, the amd pixel clock patch that is already in the op? I remember reading somewhere that people had issues with oc on sli or crossfire setups


No, there is nvidia pixel clock patcher for that, here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher. Included in that package are several patchers, the one to use has SLI in it's name.

This must be used to unlock pixelclock with SLI, i think it is locked at 400Mhz but CBA to check.

Crossfire users must use two crossfire bridges in addition to normal clock patches, as one bridge wont have enough capacity for high refreshrates or something.


----------



## RB Snake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm having trouble with overclocking.
> 
> I'm running a GTX560ti 448 with 314.22 drivers.
> 
> When I try to apply the NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher, all the limits are found and I apply the patch. I then restart my PC but my resolution has reverted to 800x600 and I can't find my Nvidia Control Panel. I have to unpatch and restart for my drivers to appear.


I think you need to enable Windows test mode first. It's something to do with the drivers signature.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> So you're trying to tell me that the actual panel itself is crashing, and not the controller?
> 
> That doesn't make any sense to me. The pixels just display what they are told. Why would they all just uniformly stop at the same seemingly random time? Surely if it was the panel itself crashing, you would have some of it working and some of it not working, at least at first.
> 
> I find it hard to believe that every single pixel is 100% equal across an entire panel, but different panels vary wildly, considering they're all cut from the same sheets. It's much more likely that a single chip in the circuit board is malfunctioning, changing the signal as a whole before it even reaches the panel.
> 
> I'm not saying that once you get to that point, that there isn't any image persistence in the panel itself, but that's a symptom, not a cause.


Wut? You said that the burn in could be related to the PCB and I posted an article which explains that LCDs can get temporary burn in.
The Macbook Pro Retina has that problem aswell, it uses a Samsung PLS panel.
Since I allready have my monitor open I could try checking temps of the chip but I really don't think that this thing will warm up much since it's just a bypass board and doesn't do any post-processing.

Can the guy with the overclocking problem try a different DVI port or at a friends place?


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptKuolio*
> 
> No, there is nvidia pixel clock patcher for that, here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher. Included in that package are several patchers, the one to use has SLI in it's name.
> 
> This must be used to unlock pixelclock with SLI, i think it is locked at 400Mhz but CBA to check.
> 
> Crossfire users must use two crossfire bridges in addition to normal clock patches, as one bridge wont have enough capacity for high refreshrates or something.


You are right about the X-fire, this is why i have only overclocked to 75. Tonight when i install my new 7950 ill try for 120


----------



## Coolio831

Order Placed: [Pixel Perfect] QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 2560x1440 PLS Monitor - Glossy
Item# 221215489267 $331.90 USD


----------



## Microtom

I bought a replacement power adapter on ebay, but it's coming from china and I'm not sure I want to wait 3 weeks to see if my monitor works or not. I've searched canadian retailers and can't find a single adapter. Dunno if anyone would want to help me finding one.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Microtom*
> 
> I bought a replacement power adapter on ebay, but it's coming from china and I'm not sure I want to wait 3 weeks to see if my monitor works or not. I've searched canadian retailers and can't find a single adapter. Dunno if anyone would want to help me finding one.


Power adapter as in the plug that goes into the brick or the brick itself? If it's the plug you should probably head to a random computer store and see if you can buy any that they have extra.


----------



## Microtom

It's the brick. What I bought on ebay is this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190688808369&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160#ht_3051wt_932
which I assume is the same thing as the brick the monitor came with.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Just received my Qnix from excellentcastle this morning from UPS. Mine was hit by custom, I had to pay 30$ so it's not a big deal but hey, money is money. From what i can see on this forum, UPS seems to be the only one charging custom even thought I ask excellent castle to put a 40$ value and as a gift. 

I try the monitor, run flawlessly for now, I can't see any dead pixels, I have some bleeding on the bottom right side and a little on the left side, but i gotta say, I don't really care and it's not a dealbreaker for the price i paid. I will try to oc and take some pictures this week end


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ice-dragoon25*
> 
> Just received my Qnix from excellentcastle this morning from UPS. Mine was hit by custom, I had to pay 30$ so it's not a big deal but hey, money is money. From what i can see on this forum, UPS seems to be the only one charging custom even thought I ask excellent castle to put a 40$ value and as a gift.
> 
> I try the monitor, run flawlessly for now, I can't see any dead pixels, I have some bleeding on the bottom right side and a little on the left side, but i gotta say, I don't really care and it's not a dealbreaker for the price i paid. I will try to oc and take some pictures this week end


Mine is going to be delivered tomorrow and i called UPS earlier to pay for the customs fee instead of paying that $10 bond fee when UPS initially pays the customs fee.

It seems as though i was to late as UPS already processed it but the person said the estimated fees are about $22? Mine was marked as $85 GIFT, weird..


----------



## halodude23

Hey guys ***? I just got with hit with a 20$ free from UPS and I live in the United States? Am I supposed to have to pay this or is ExcellentCastle supposed to cover this?


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> Hey guys ***? I just got with hit with a 20$ free from UPS and I live in the United States? Am I supposed to have to pay this or is ExcellentCastle supposed to cover this?


You pay, they don't cover those fees.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> You pay, they don't cover those fees.


No freaking way. I mean I bought a Catleap from South Korea last year via DHL and I never got charged a cent, but now I have to pay? Is it because of UPS?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> Hey guys ***? I just got with hit with a 20$ free from UPS and I live in the United States? Am I supposed to have to pay this or is ExcellentCastle supposed to cover this?


There shouldnt be any fees. I thought South Korea and the US have a free trade agreement. I didn't get charged any taxes from mine, bought it from hulustar and shipped to San Diego, CA


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> No freaking way. I mean I bought a Catleap from South Korea last year via DHL and I never got charged a cent, but now I have to pay? Is it because of UPS?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> There shouldnt be any fees. I thought South Korea and the US have a free trade agreement. I didn't get charged any taxes from mine, bought it from hulustar and shipped to San Diego, CA


If that's the case then halodude you should contact UPS about being charged otherwise you're supposed to eat the fees.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

I think it's only UPS, because I saw a lot of people on this thread who had to pay some fees. One guy got one of his monitor with DHL, no fees, and another with UPS, fees


----------



## MenacingTuba

First Review of the Matte Qnix Q2710 from overclock.ru

http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/53718/Korejskij_demping_v_nishe_PLS_reshenij._Obzor_i_testirovanie_monitora_QNIX_QX2710.html

This is a compilation of macro pictures of monitors pixels to show the effect of different kinds of coatings (glossy, glass and the various matte coatings). The Dell U2711 uses the most aggressive (thickest) matte/anti-glare (AG) coating while the 27Q LED-P is glossy which is why the pixels look so much clearer. Aggressive AG is the most common type of coating, especially on IPS.

http://www.overclockers.ru/images/lab/2013/05/02/1/23_kristaleffect_big.jpg

The following AH-IPS and PLS have semi-glossy coating (lightest matte coating) Q2710, EA244WMi, U2713H, U2413H, U2713HM, VP2770, PB278Q, S27A850D and S24A850D


----------



## wntrsnowg

I forgot to mention, mine shipped DHL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> First Review of the Matte Qnix Q2710 from overclock.ru
> 
> http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/53718/Korejskij_demping_v_nishe_PLS_reshenij._Obzor_i_testirovanie_monitora_QNIX_QX2710.html
> 
> The Matte versions is indeed semi-glossy, wish I had ordered the matte version!
> 
> http://www.overclockers.ru/images/lab/2013/05/02/1/23_kristaleffect_big.jpg


added the review to the OP. The review mentions an average input lag of 6.3 ms


----------



## Atomagenesis

DHL here, no fees, Korea to GA. Hulustar was my seller.

One thing to remember about DHL though is they require signatures on all their shipments, so you better be home or you may be driving to their depot.


----------



## halodude23

I will contact UPS about this and see what they can do and as for DHL. They missed my shipment too, but don't worry, you can reschedule the shipment and it's pretty annoying to do so when the DHL guy is an idiot.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah that's why I get everything shipped to work (that and security). As the box isn't much larger than the display itself I can actually get this thing home on the train instead of dropping $20 on a cab.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Updated my post to explain the Overclock.ru image

This is a compilation of macro pictures of monitors pixels to show the effect of different kinds of coatings (glossy, glass and the various matte coatings). The Dell U2711 uses the most aggressive (thickest) matte/anti-glare (AG) coating while the 27Q LED-P is glossy which is why the pixels look so much clearer. Aggressive AG is the most common type of coating, especially on IPS.

http://www.overclockers.ru/images/lab/2013/05/02/1/23_kristaleffect_big.jpg

The following AH-IPS and PLS have semi-glossy coating (lightest matte coating) Q2710, EA244WMi, U2713H, U2413H, U2713HM, VP2770, PB278Q, S27A850D and S24A850D


----------



## Joneszilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> Hey guys ***? I just got with hit with a 20$ free from UPS and I live in the United States? Am I supposed to have to pay this or is ExcellentCastle supposed to cover this?


I live in PA. Got my monitor from ExcellentCastle via UPS. No fees.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joneszilla*
> 
> I live in PA. Got my monitor from ExcellentCastle via UPS. No fees.


I purchased this about 2-3 weeks ago so you might get one within that time frame too. I just called them and they said that the sender "PAYS FOR THE FREIGHT" and you have to pay for Customs. I find this a bit absurd....


----------



## Joneszilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> I purchased this about 2-3 weeks ago so you might get one within that time frame too. I just called them and they said that the sender "PAYS FOR THE FREIGHT" and you have to pay for Customs. I find this a bit absurd....


Hmm.. I got mine last Friday. Did the Ebay listing say free shipping? I ordered the glossy and it said free shipping (paid $304). There shouldnt be any customs charges as the US has a free trade agreement with South Korea.


----------



## BroJin

I ordered mine from Hulu Star as well and asked him to mark as gift value at $200.00. I didn't get charged from customs.Free trade agreement applies to only products that are made, produced and assembled in Korea or USA won't get charged taxes. Got to find out if the product was made and assembled in korea. Oh and mines was delivered by DHL Maybe its a UPS thing..... I never liked those brown guys anyway


----------



## BradF1979

I ordered from Hulustar. I'm in the US. I told him to mark full value and NOT to mark it as a gift. DHL delivered it and I signed for it without fuss or fees.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joneszilla*
> 
> Hmm.. I got mine last Friday. Did the Ebay listing say free shipping? I ordered the glossy and it said free shipping (paid $304). There shouldnt be any customs charges as the US has a free trade agreement with South Korea.


Well, I told them that and they were like "Your sender didn't pay for the Customs, only the shipping"


----------



## Spartan F8

found something nice. This monitor can run 120hz on my #2 port of my GTX570 but will only get about 108hz on the #1 port. Not sure what that is all about but if some of you guys are close to 120 but can't quite get it it may be a shot in the dark.


----------



## halodude23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> found something nice. This monitor can run 120hz on my #2 port of my GTX570 but will only get about 108hz on the #1 port. Not sure what that is all about but if some of you guys are close to 120 but can't quite get it it may be a shot in the dark.


I think that's nothing new but I'm sure you patched the drivers so that somehow gave the DVI-I port on your GPU more bandwidth by unlocking it.


----------



## Fishballs

Has anyone ran these monitors just off the mobo using HD 4000.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128547

D-Sub + DVI

with
i7 - 3770k HD 400

Will that work?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> Wut? You said that the burn in could be related to the PCB and I posted an article which explains that LCDs can get temporary burn in.
> The Macbook Pro Retina has that problem aswell, it uses a Samsung PLS panel.
> Since I allready have my monitor open I could try checking temps of the chip but I really don't think that this thing will warm up much since it's just a bypass board and doesn't do any post-processing.
> 
> Can the guy with the overclocking problem try a different DVI port or at a friends place?


Right right, but that "temporary burn in" is usually caused by either an improper signal being received, or because there is still a residual charge due to improper shutdown.

Now, the common variable as far as I can tell among people with bad "burn in" is they're all also getting monitor crashes due to overclocking.

It only makes sense that those crashes are happening at the controller level. If they were at the LCD level, you would have individual lines or pixels working while others weren't (or "normal" artifacting/scan lines), rather than entire panels crashing to black screens with sometimes some garbled static colors on some part of it.

If the pixels aren't being returned to their natural state (black) when the monitor gets shut off due to some issue at the controller level, which only occurs when overclocking, it stands to reason that the controller might be overheating due to pumping electrons through it at literally twice it's intended rate (that is, after all, what we are doing when we OC to 120hz).

At any rate, since you've already got yours open, if you could take some temps of the various chips at stock, and then at the highest overclock you can do stable, and see which ones heat up the most, that would be great. Also remember to account for ambient temps.

If it turns out I'm wrong, at least we'll know. If I'm right, well I'm sure a lot of users here would love to toss a sub $2 heatsink on a chip to get a more stable, and perhaps higher clocking panel.


----------



## fagoatse

Is this catleap driver necessary when OCing? Im not sure if im doing it right. I've got this CUR thing more or less setup but it doesnt give me any choice other than 60Hz in nvidia control panel. However, it does work when i create a custom resolution. I cant seem to go higher than 99 though. It says that the test has failed and that the display doesnt support this refrest rate or something.

EDIT: how do i go back to windows' default calibration?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> Is this catleap driver necessary when OCing? Im not sure if im doing it right. I've got this CUR thing more or less setup but it doesnt give me any choice other than 60Hz in nvidia control panel. However, it does work when i create a custom resolution. I cant seem to go higher than 99 though. It says that the test has failed and that the display doesnt support this refrest rate or something.


Make sure you are entering it right into CRU. A good check is to enter your custom resolution into CRU and then close it. After that re-open CRU and in the monitor drop down it should say "restart required" if it says that then after a reboot the higher refresh rate should be available (yes it does take a reboot for it to take effect)

Also the catleap drive is not necessary when OCing but if you want your games to recognize the extra frequency you will need it (for all intensive purposes i would say it is a must as only 2 of my games could do 120hz without it)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Right right, but that "temporary burn in" is usually caused by either an improper signal being received, or because there is still a residual charge due to improper shutdown.
> 
> Now, the common variable as far as I can tell among people with bad "burn in" is they're all also getting monitor crashes due to overclocking.
> 
> It only makes sense that those crashes are happening at the controller level. If they were at the LCD level, you would have individual lines or pixels working while others weren't (or "normal" artifacting/scan lines), rather than entire panels crashing to black screens with sometimes some garbled static colors on some part of it.
> 
> If the pixels aren't being returned to their natural state (black) when the monitor gets shut off due to some issue at the controller level, which only occurs when overclocking, it stands to reason that the controller might be overheating due to pumping electrons through it at literally twice it's intended rate (that is, after all, what we are doing when we OC to 120hz).
> 
> At any rate, since you've already got yours open, if you could take some temps of the various chips at stock, and then at the highest overclock you can do stable, and see which ones heat up the most, that would be great. Also remember to account for ambient temps.
> 
> If it turns out I'm wrong, at least we'll know. If I'm right, well I'm sure a lot of users here would love to toss a sub $2 heatsink on a chip to get a more stable, and perhaps higher clocking panel.


The heatsink idea is just awesome. I just got mine open and stuck a GPU chipset heatsink onto it and i am now getting a bit better uniformity from left to right. Anyone else tries this let us know because if it is repeatable (not just a lucky break on my part) it could be a fix for the uniformity/cloudy look.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Right right, but that "temporary burn in" is usually caused by either an improper signal being received, or because there is still a residual charge due to improper shutdown.
> 
> Now, the common variable as far as I can tell among people with bad "burn in" is they're all also getting monitor crashes due to overclocking.
> 
> It only makes sense that those crashes are happening at the controller level. If they were at the LCD level, you would have individual lines or pixels working while others weren't (or "normal" artifacting/scan lines), rather than entire panels crashing to black screens with sometimes some garbled static colors on some part of it.
> 
> If the pixels aren't being returned to their natural state (black) when the monitor gets shut off due to some issue at the controller level, which only occurs when overclocking, it stands to reason that the controller might be overheating due to pumping electrons through it at literally twice it's intended rate (that is, after all, what we are doing when we OC to 120hz).
> 
> At any rate, since you've already got yours open, if you could take some temps of the various chips at stock, and then at the highest overclock you can do stable, and see which ones heat up the most, that would be great. Also remember to account for ambient temps.


Stop talking out of your ass.
The burn in problem is in no way related to the PCB, it's tha panel itself. It also has nothing to do with overclocking.
I had burn in at 60 Hz and at 96 Hz. The Macbook Pro Retina screens have burn in aswell and the original Samsung one has aswell since it uses the same panel.

We're not pumping twice as many electrons through the monitor. The more current flows, the more electrons flow through the cable.
And increasing the frequency will most likely not increase the current, and if then only slightly.
The chip itself on the PCB is most likely running with it's own crystal on a fixed frequency and wont be influenced by a changed refresh rate.
Overclocking might make it hotter since it needs to process and send data to the panel more often but that is a minor change.
A heatsink wouldn't do a thing to overclocking, better isolation of the cables probably would.
Remember, you're overclocking the display and not the display PCB. You're just letting it display more frames in a second.
Please reread this article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_persistence

And what do you mean about the display "crashing"? Do you mean that guy which got all these lines on his one?
That monitor probably didn't go into power saving mode and started displaying crap since it got no input signal.
I've never experienced this and I run mine at 96 Hz all the time.
The display controller doesn't have any problems in my eyes.

Oh and this panel doesn't use PWM light dimming for anyone interested.
See: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/samsung_s27b970d.htm

Would be cool if this were a 10-bit panel, but you can't have everything.


----------



## bhazard451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Make sure you are entering it right into CRU. A good check is to enter your custom resolution into CRU and then close it. After that re-open CRU and in the monitor drop down it should say "restart required" if it says that then after a reboot the higher refresh rate should be available (yes it does take a reboot for it to take effect)
> 
> Also the catleap drive is not necessary when OCing but if you want your games to recognize the extra frequency you will need it (for all intensive purposes i would say it is a must as only 2 of my games could do 120hz without it)


What's this "catleap driver"? I haven't been able to find it.


----------



## BradF1979

Spartan F8: Don't DirectX games use what refresh rate from Windows? Doesn't the CRU utility add the overclocked Hz to the Windows profile so they'll use it. I'm confused on why the Catleap driver is required.


----------



## jpak

Just received my Xstar(matte) using the provided dual DVI cable since I don't have one. All I get is a blue blinking light when i turn the monitor on and get the same difference for when I keep only the power cord connected. No logo, message or light emits from the screen.. not sure if it is suppose to be like that by default. Ordered from bigclothcraft, seems like I have an entirely non-working monitor? =(


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpak*
> 
> Just received my Xstar(matte) using the provided dual DVI cable since I don't have one. All I get is a blue blinking light when i turn the monitor on and get the same difference for when I keep only the power cord connected. No logo, message or light emits from the screen.. not sure if it is suppose to be like that by default. Ordered from bigclothcraft, seems like I have an entirely non-working monitor? =(


Mine wont turn on at all unless it senses a signal


----------



## vicbdn

Nvm. Got mine in 2 days. OCes to 115, havent tried any higher. Some backlight bleed but not too bad. Only at the top. No dead/stuck pixels. Popped it open to remove the stand to VESA mount it.

Great purchase.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Another seemingly immaculate one from hulustar! No pixel probs at all as far as I can tell after 5 minutes and moving various images around the screen. Twice i thought I might have seen one but it was a speck of something.







Barely any bleed either (a very light thin line top right I think; might not have noticed if not for this thread). I am not quite sure what people are doing/using for the dark test but I have a solid black background plus transparent taskbar and the bottom and other corners are as black as the middle.

Like the stand fine except I think I will have to lean it forward; don't like display titled back away from me. Also I appreciate the inputs being on the side as opposed to the bottom for easier access.

Even if it's a dud overclocker somehow I am stoked for this price.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> Stop talking out of your ass.
> The burn in problem is in no way related to the PCB, it's tha panel itself. It also has nothing to do with overclocking.
> I had burn in at 60 Hz and at 96 Hz. The Macbook Pro Retina screens have burn in aswell and the original Samsung one has aswell since it uses the same panel.
> 
> We're not pumping twice as many electrons through the monitor. The more current flows, the more electrons flow through the cable.
> And increasing the frequency will most likely not increase the current, and if then only slightly.
> The chip itself on the PCB is most likely running with it's own crystal on a fixed frequency and wont be influenced by a changed refresh rate.
> Overclocking might make it hotter since it needs to process and send data to the panel more often but that is a minor change.
> A heatsink wouldn't do a thing to overclocking, better isolation of the cables probably would.
> Remember, you're overclocking the display and not the display PCB. You're just letting it display more frames in a second.
> Please reread this article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_persistence
> 
> And what do you mean about the display "crashing"? Do you mean that guy which got all these lines on his one?
> That monitor probably didn't go into power saving mode and started displaying crap since it got no input signal.
> I've never experienced this and I run mine at 96 Hz all the time.
> The display controller doesn't have any problems in my eyes.
> 
> Oh and this panel doesn't use PWM light dimming for anyone interested.
> See: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/samsung_s27b970d.htm
> 
> Would be cool if this were a 10-bit panel, but you can't have everything.


So you're trying to tell me that increasing frequency while leaving everything else the same does NOT increase heat or electron flow, and that heat is not a detriment to overclocking computer electronics? Ever take a high school physics class, or overclock some piece of computer hardware before?

As for the PCB being unaffected by overclocking the panel, how exactly do you speculate that new data reaches the panel at a higher frequency than the PCB feeding it operates, unless the PCB is in fact being overclocked as well? The panel is only capable of displaying what it is given. It can't create new frames out of nowhere.

Who exactly is talking out of their ass here. My money is on the guy who just joined OCN and somehow think's he's the grand master of LCD technology because he opened his bezel, and has owned a few monitors before.

If you think you know better, prove it. Take some temps, do some testing, or provide a definitive article debunking the theory. Contribute some actual data or stay out of it and let the more inquisitive people test things that might actually help everyone in this thread.

And no, your wiki page doesn't count. All that says is that the burn in effect occurs. Great. It doesn't say anything at all about why it is happening in the first place in this particular monitor.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpak*
> 
> Just received my Xstar(matte) using the provided dual DVI cable since I don't have one. All I get is a blue blinking light when i turn the monitor on and get the same difference for when I keep only the power cord connected. No logo, message or light emits from the screen.. not sure if it is suppose to be like that by default. Ordered from bigclothcraft, seems like I have an entirely non-working monitor? =(


What video card, and are you sure it's not a single link dvi cable? There have been reports that some are being shipped with single link cables


----------



## jpak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> What video card, and are you sure it's not a single link dvi cable? There have been reports that some are being shipped with single link cables


My video card is a GTX 550 Ti and yes it is not a single link. I've tried both output ports. I have a second computer using the same video card but it'll take me a while to arrange some stuff around to test that. I also purchased two extra cables to try when I receive them: 28AWG off monoprice and also http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812270191. Hoping for the best =X


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ah, ok, minor bleed, two spots bottom middle saw during a game loading screen. Also, panel slightly lower in middle than edges; can only tell from taskbar icons. None cut off at bottom but close. Observation more than real complaint...both could be fixed if I so chose.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ah, ok, minor bleed, two spots bottom middle saw during a game loading screen. Also, panel slightly lower in middle than edges; can only tell from taskbar icons. None cut off at bottom but close. Observation more than real complaint...both could be fixed if I so chose.


I had the same issue. The bezel in the lower middle bows outwards. Also, when I had the 4 screws installed in the back along the bottom, the bow was worse. So I have no screws along the bottom currently


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Does 96Hz no prob so far...can't say I noticed a difference yet though other than it was definitely a bit darker (60Hz ICC at that point).


----------



## Gabe1103

got my QX710 today... so where can i find info on how to oc this?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabe1103*
> 
> got my QX710 today... so where can i find info on how to oc this?


Look at the OP for "Overclocking guide and Help" lol

Does anyone read the OP?


----------



## Gabe1103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Look at the OP for "Overclocking guide and Help" lol
> 
> Does anyone read the OP?


Funny thing is I actually looked at the OP but I didnt see it! haha! i think i was too excited! anyway, found it now! thanks!


----------



## fagoatse

I dont know why but i cant find a profile that wouldnt be either too bright/washed out or too dark. I'm at 96Hz right now, 12 clicks from the lowest brightness and hasnt touched nvidia default color settings. Any clues? My ambient light is rather dim btw.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> I dont know why but i cant find a profile that wouldnt be either too bright/washed out or too dark. I'm at 96Hz right now, 12 clicks from the lowest brightness and hasnt touched nvidia default color settings. Any clues? My ambient light is rather dim btw.


Without a colorimeter your only bet is adjusting the colors by hand, or playing with the brightness.
Have you tried out the other profiles aswell? Maybe these will work better for you.
Mine were made with a glossy monitor by the way.
Oh and the server is currently down so I've reupped the profiles here (homeserver): http://botox.ath.cx/files/icc/


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> I dont know why but i cant find a profile that wouldnt be either too bright/washed out or too dark. I'm at 96Hz right now, 12 clicks from the lowest brightness and hasnt touched nvidia default color settings. Any clues? My ambient light is rather dim btw.


I thought cor's profiles were really good at 96hz. Gamme is right on at this site and I don't see any colors in greyscale.. http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/


----------



## obiefl

Cor's profiles didn't look good at all on my Qnix Matte, but dascth's D6500 perceptual nails it on mine, simply stunning. I have a pretty fancy colorimeter and a spectroradiometer setup but haven't even felt the need to bring it up. One of these day I'll calibrate it myself but I honestly don't think I can get it better then it is.


----------



## fagoatse

No dice with either. They are so bright that black becomes gray(12 ticks brightness, defaultt nvidia settings)


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> No dice with either. They are so bright that black becomes gray(12 ticks brightness, defaultt nvidia settings)


What Hz are you running at?


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> What Hz are you running at?


96


----------



## BradF1979

Yea, I'm not sure... It could just be I'm not as sensitive as you are to the black/grey issue. My only complaint is that my whites are as white as I want with cors, but when I look at gamma (both greyscale and color) they are pretty damn close to being perfect.


----------



## fagoatse

what should i be looking at here - http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ ? Perhaps im just exaggerating. It seems that I've lost my point of reference after almost 2 weeks of using qx2710 in it's default calibration.
Any 96Hz matte panel user here? Which profiles are you guys using?


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> what should i be looking at here - http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ ? Perhaps im just exaggerating. It seems that I've lost my point of reference after almost 2 weeks of using qx2710 in it's default calibration.
> Any 96Hz matte panel user here? Which profiles are you guys using?


You have to read each screen to figure out what you need to be looking for... I have a QNIX Matte at 96hz and I'm using Cors 96Hz calibration.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obiefl*
> 
> Cor's profiles didn't look good at all on my Qnix Matte, but dascth's D6500 perceptual nails it on mine, simply stunning. I have a pretty fancy colorimeter and a spectroradiometer setup but haven't even felt the need to bring it up. One of these day I'll calibrate it myself but I honestly don't think I can get it better then it is.


Which one of Dascth's? There are three different ones from him in the OP and the last two both say "perceptual".

Yeah I could borrow a colorimeter from work but trying not to have to bother.


----------



## obiefl

^ The one with the normal 2.2 Gamma.


----------



## chughes65

Just pulled a trigger on this bad boy!

[Pixel Perfect] QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27"

Cannot wait to get it! This is my first post and I am new to this whole thing. Thanks for all the help everyone!







this thread is the reason I decided on it!


----------



## Jboss

http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/1170#post_19884274

Cheers!


----------



## SEALBoy

Dammit, mine's been delivered but I'm on a business trip and won't be back until tomorrow. Patience is a virtue... patience is a virtue...


----------



## TarballX

For those with OC'd monitors:
Do you notice scan lines across the screen when looking closely at the screen (most noticeable in solid color areas)?

For anyone with this monitor, how is the backlight evenness? When looking at a full white screen, do you notice any significant brightness shift on one side of the monitor vs the other?


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> For those with OC'd monitors:
> Do you notice scan lines across the screen when looking closely at the screen (most noticeable in solid color areas)?
> 
> For anyone with this monitor, how is the backlight evenness? When looking at a full white screen, do you notice any significant brightness shift on one side of the monitor vs the other?


Only noticed scan lines even close to the screen at 120hz which is why I'm using 96Hz.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> For those with OC'd monitors:
> Do you notice scan lines across the screen when looking closely at the screen (most noticeable in solid color areas)?
> 
> For anyone with this monitor, how is the backlight evenness? When looking at a full white screen, do you notice any significant brightness shift on one side of the monitor vs the other?


I notice the scan lines however you have to just about mash your face on the screen to see them. This is not causing any noticeable issues so far and i am hoping a better quality cable stabilizes it. Also the darkness shift can be made a little better by turning up the brightness(at least it did for me) there has also been those who have dis-assembled the monitor and done electrical tape to remove "cloudiness" this may also help. Another long shot is a heatsink on the PCB.(it helped mine a bit but i am not going to stand by it until more reports of it working come it). Outside of this you might be able to squeeze a tad bit more quality out of manually adjusting the timings in CRU.

Hope this helps


----------



## Jinru

Does anyone have any more ideas? I'm really hoping the issue is on my end and not the monitors. I CAN'T be the only one with a gimped OC display









Spoiler is all the previous posts on the issue.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> I think my QNIX might be a lemon. I can't even get 72hz. Here's what I've done.
> 
> -patched with DSEO13b
> -installed Catleap driver
> -patched with NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher
> -made multiple 1440p profiles using CRU for 72hz, 80hz, and 96hz.
> I restarted on every step.
> 
> Any overclocking produces yellow scan lines throughout the screen.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> 66hz doesn't work either.
> 
> I don't know if it matters but I'm using a thick 10 ft. long dual link DVI-D cable from newegg. The damn stock cable that came with the monitor was a single link...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Yup, just arrived today. 0 dead/stuck pixels, but with backlight bleed on bottom corners.
> 
> I tried it without the pixel clock patch afterwards as well and it was the same result.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Reinstalled and updated Nvidia drivers to 320 followed by a registry clean. Only applied the Catleap driver and attempted to OC using Nvidia control panel. Nada. I tried to give the pixel clock patcher another shot. Nada.






Here's what it looks like at 72hz. You can see the yellow and blue scan lines and some artifact on the side of the message boxes. They just become more pronounced the higher I go. I can get a Test Successful when I try to OC as high as 96hz, but I can't get a stable OC higher than 64hz...


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Only noticed scan lines even close to the screen at 120hz which is why I'm using 96Hz.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I notice the scan lines however you have to just about mash your face on the screen to see them. This is not causing any noticeable issues so far and i am hoping a better quality cable stabilizes it. Also the darkness shift can be made a little better by turning up the brightness(at least it did for me) there has also been those who have dis-assembled the monitor and done electrical tape to remove "cloudiness" this may also help. Another long shot is a heatsink on the PCB.(it helped mine a bit but i am not going to stand by it until more reports of it working come it). Outside of this you might be able to squeeze a tad bit more quality out of manually adjusting the timings in CRU.
> 
> Hope this helps


I currently have a Crossover IPS with a 120hz PCB, and I'm trying to decide if its worth replacing it with one of these. So you're saying that these monitors do have some backlight unevenness?
I know a lot of people seem to not have issues with the scan lines, but they tend to bug me a lot for some reason. I don't know if my monitor just has worse scan lines than usual, or my eyes just tend to notice them more..
Maybe I'll just wait until we get some "real" 120hz IPS monitors without scan lines before I upgrade


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> I currently have a Crossover IPS with a 120hz PCB, and I'm trying to decide if its worth replacing it with one of these. So you're saying that these monitors do have some backlight unevenness?
> I know a lot of people seem to not have issues with the scan lines, but they tend to bug me a lot for some reason. I don't know if my monitor just has worse scan lines than usual, or my eyes just tend to notice them more..
> Maybe I'll just wait until we get some "real" 120hz IPS monitors without scan lines before I upgrade


That would be your choice. I will update you guys on whether the better quality monoprice 24AWG 3ft cable does. I really can't find a better cable to try it with and if it doesn't work the little bit of scanning i get does not bother me at all (i cant even see it without literally being 2 inches away). Backlight uneveness is something that can effect any monitor with any brand(even my nice shiny name brand samsung has more backlight bleed/uneveness than this one @ 120hz)

As for "real" IPS 120hz, it is going to be awhile. I mean especially @ 1440p. They most definitely suffer the 1080p virus for a while. This is becuase there is currently none that even go above 60hz at any resolution with IPS so they will likely milk 1080p 120hz IPS for as long as possible before upping the resolution and when they do it will likely be a crazy premium price for a while. Also they will likely use new cables or display port only. Not trying to knock the idea of waiting i am just saying it will be a while due to the marketing and hardware constrants of it.

I can really only say good things about this monitor after just a little bit of reading and work. I have never had a catleap 2B but i have had a crossover and i think it doe have a bit better picture (PLS).


----------



## obto

After reading this thread I couldn't stand it anymore and took the plunge haha.

My Qnix arrived today and looks gorgeous! Sadly it has slight backlight bleed on the bottom left (looks better than it does in the pic), but doesn't look bad enough to warrant a return










Planning on attempting to OC to 120hz tonight. Here's hoping!


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> For those with OC'd monitors:
> Do you notice scan lines across the screen when looking closely at the screen (most noticeable in solid color areas)?
> 
> For anyone with this monitor, how is the backlight evenness? When looking at a full white screen, do you notice any significant brightness shift on one side of the monitor vs the other?


Absolutely no scan lines, no one sided white shifts, no visible backlight bleed or unevenness _with lights on._ If I turn off the lights and look at a completely black screen, I _might_ notice something, but realistically who sits at their computer looking at a totally black screen in total darkness?


----------



## Methadras

Is there a 30" version of this monitor? Someone please say yes.


----------



## pox67

question for dascth: I have watched your dismantling videos, nice work. Did you ever test the extra buttons on the control panel?
You showed the Auto and Menu buttons, I just wondered if they actually do anything.

I also wasn't able to find if the electrical tape helped with backlight bleed?


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Absolutely no scan lines, no one sided white shifts, no visible backlight bleed or unevenness _with lights on._ If I turn off the lights and look at a completely black screen, I _might_ notice something, but realistically who sits at their computer looking at a totally black screen in total darkness?


Thanks for the info. What refresh rate are you running it at?


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pox67*
> 
> question for dascth: I have watched your dismantling videos, nice work. Did you ever test the extra buttons on the control panel?
> You showed the Auto and Menu buttons, I just wondered if they actually do anything.
> 
> I also wasn't able to find if the electrical tape helped with backlight bleed?


Oh dear, I've learned so much in the past month or so, I wonder now what I'd think if I went back knowing what I know now and went through before and after shots (the right way) with and without the electrical tape. I'm uber-conservative at claiming anything; I don't like saying something fixed something unless I absolutely know what the crap I'm talking about. I'd say that IF the electrical tape helped, it did only a little bit. I'm really having a hard time remembering what it looked like when I got it though. I'd need a really long page to cover all I think about panel warp, panel layers' gap uniformity, and case/panel assembly and how they each contribute to backlight bleed. I think we treat it very simply here, but I don't think there is a simple fix for most things in life, and this is no exception. I'd suggest just trusting yourself and taking the bezel off and scratch your head and poke around and see what you think; you might learn something too, that's another reason having this monitor is fun. Try using it with the bezel off and messing around with laying it flat on its back, pushing lightly on areas, and just getting a sense of what you think might be causing it. If you think tape will help since there's light obviously leaking somewhere, do it. Each monitor is different. If my tape helped, maybe it was because the thickness of the tape helped push down on all the other layers inside, compressing them a little on the edges, which might have prevented gaps or waviness in the diffuser layers.

The buttons do nothing, they're just parts used for monitors, some of which have actual menu and auto button controls. I've verified that the pins from these buttons go to the cable jack where there is no wire = they do nothing.


----------



## dascth

If my calibrations look crap on your monitor, then this one will too!







Otherwise, give it a try if you're wanting another 96Hz cal. I think there was only one available, so at least you can pick between two now.

QX2710 2013-04-28 D6500 2.2 HQ XYZLUT+MTX - 96Hz.zip 434k .zip file


----------



## dascth

This may be completely inappropriate to post here, if so, yell at me really mean-like. In any case, I have a Sapphire Radeon HD 6950 2GB I was going to sell on eBay, but I didn't know if my "friends" on here wanted first dibs. Why give eBay more of my money unless I have to right? Original box/accessories. Looks like they're going on eBay for $170-$230 including shipping (here). I'd do $170 and save myself fees and give a decent deal in the process if anyone's interested.


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> If my calibrations look crap on your monitor, then this one will too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, give it a try if you're wanting another 96Hz cal. I think there was only one available, so at least you can pick between two now.
> 
> QX2710 2013-04-28 D6500 2.2 HQ XYZLUT+MTX - 96Hz.zip 434k .zip file


Just installed it... I'm confused on why both yours and cors gamma looks great, but there is a noticeable difference. His makes my whites more reddish, and yours makes them more blueish.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pox67*
> 
> question for dascth: I have watched your dismantling videos, nice work. Did you ever test the extra buttons on the control panel?
> You showed the Auto and Menu buttons, I just wondered if they actually do anything.
> 
> I also wasn't able to find if the electrical tape helped with backlight bleed?


I tested them also. They do nothing

All the posted color calibrations look off on my screen. Some are too cool, some to dull, some make colors look off, etc. I guess i am unlucky that my panel has so much variance. How much do color calibrators cost?


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> it's not actually coil whine, it's the capacitors I believe vibrating, you can fix it by dampening them with some adhesive, but as far as I know the qnix don't have this problem


I get some buzzing at 120hz. I can hear it, but it's much less noisy than the buzzing on my Catleap. But it's there if you listen for it, especially on a white page. Not sure if anyone else has got this monitor to 120hz, opened an all white page (wikipedia or google images for some reason were the loudest with my Catleap, but it doesn't make a difference with my Qnix) and put their ear to the screen.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I get some buzzing at 120hz. I can hear it, but it's much less noisy than the buzzing on my Catleap. But it's there if you listen for it, especially on a white page. Not sure if anyone else has got this monitor to 120hz, opened an all white page (wikipedia or google images for some reason were the loudest with my Catleap, but it doesn't make a difference with my Qnix) and put their ear to the screen.


Tried it, no buzzing here, and no scan lines on this monitor, my catleap has very visible scan lines at 120hz, but the deliner program takes care of that, at least in windows


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Tried it, no buzzing here, and no scan lines on this monitor, my catleap has very visible scan lines at 120hz, but the deliner program takes care of that, at least in windows


I hear a light buzzing, but I did get scan lines at 120hz so I had to use LCD Reduced and "Reduce DVI Frequency" in CCC to get rid of them. I think 120hz is fine now, haven't seen any scan lines yet. But this probably means that my board can't really handle 120hz, or it does but it really has to struggle.

On a side note, I've been using UDPixel to get rid of this stuck pixel for days now whenever I'm on the computer and this little freaking thing won't go away!







Does that mean that there's a very good chance it won't ever un-stuck?


----------



## zhoulander

Wow just calibrated with my new i1 Display Pro and my original from dream-seller looks fantastic now. My mouse cursor is no longer red









Monitor: QNIX 2710 Glossy
Refresh rate: 100 Hz
Brightness: 10 clicks from bottom
Luminance: 120
Gamma: 2.2

For my red-hue monitor:
http://www.zhoulander.com/projects/qnix/qnix-ds-100hz-b10.icm

For my non-red-hue monitor:
http://www.zhoulander.com/projects/qnix/qnix-hulu-100hz-b10.icm


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I get some buzzing at 120hz. I can hear it, but it's much less noisy than the buzzing on my Catleap. But it's there if you listen for it, especially on a white page. Not sure if anyone else has got this monitor to 120hz, opened an all white page (wikipedia or google images for some reason were the loudest with my Catleap, but it doesn't make a difference with my Qnix) and put their ear to the screen.


I get buzzing from the speakers when they are at high volume. I recommend to have the speakers turned all the way down and use a different audio output


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Just installed it... I'm confused on why both yours and cors gamma looks great, but there is a noticeable difference. His makes my whites more reddish, and yours makes them more blueish.


Neither looks neutral then? Not really that surprising actually. Oh, and here's the reason why you can see similar "gamma values" on that website, but still see perceptual differences:

Gamma values specify the luminosity "curve" or, as simply as I can put it, how fast it gets brighter as you move away from black. Gamma doesn't affect the brightness of your screen; black and white are still the same brightness, it just affect the scale in-between them. There is no single gamma value, for white or for red, green, or blue when you're measuring it on your monitor; that website just helps you guess at an average of sorts. To get your gamma profile, you take measurements at a bunch of different levels ranging from all the way black to all the way white (or red/green/blue if testing gamma of a single subpixel instead of the combined grayscale gamma) and then you compare the SLOPE of each point (rate of increase of brightness at that point) to the slope at that brightness on the perfect gamma curve you are targeting (2.2 usually, 2.4 for dark movie settings). SO, you can see that gamma (expected slope) could be way off at any point, and maybe not so bad at another. There are serious serious limitations with calibrations done via that website, but it is the absolute best your're going to get without any equipment. Gamma and grayscale calibration serves a purpose, but it's not everything. It's really hard to comprehend all the ways a monitor can be "off", it's insane. Gamma only deals with luminosity, there's also saturation and hue, and those aren't really linear simple things either. So, combine them all and you will never be satisfied again, and never have a truly perfectly calibrated monitor. So, yeah a single averaged (and eye-balled) gamma value won't be able to represent the nuances of what you see. What'll really blow your mind is that my two monitors don't look the same even after each goes through really complex calibrations for 3hrs a piece. You'd think you could make them look the same, but you can't. That's why people still talk about IPS vs PLS vs VA and crap like that; if you could just calibrate away the differences, then you would!

Man, I just killed an internet tree on that long message. I really do try to keep these things short; I just have a blab problem.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Thanks for the info. What refresh rate are you running it at?


96 currently on my 560ti, but I was running 130 on my 680L before I had to send that in for RMA.


----------



## Cwinston

For those who have opened up the monitor, is it possible to remove the silver frame to apply electrical tape without taking out the whole panel?


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I get buzzing from the speakers when they are at high volume. I recommend to have the speakers turned all the way down and use a different audio output


I don't have my computer hooked up to my monitor, I have computer speakers. I have my volume turned all the way down. The sound is faint, but it's still there.


----------



## pox67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Oh dear, I've learned so much in the past month or so, I wonder now what I'd think if I went back knowing what I know now and went through before and after shots (the right way) with and without the electrical tape. I'm uber-conservative at claiming anything; I don't like saying something fixed something unless I absolutely know what the crap I'm talking about. I'd say that IF the electrical tape helped, it did only a little bit. I'm really having a hard time remembering what it looked like when I got it though. I'd need a really long page to cover all I think about panel warp, panel layers' gap uniformity, and case/panel assembly and how they each contribute to backlight bleed. I think we treat it very simply here, but I don't think there is a simple fix for most things in life, and this is no exception. I'd suggest just trusting yourself and taking the bezel off and scratch your head and poke around and see what you think; you might learn something too, that's another reason having this monitor is fun. Try using it with the bezel off and messing around with laying it flat on its back, pushing lightly on areas, and just getting a sense of what you think might be causing it. If you think tape will help since there's light obviously leaking somewhere, do it. Each monitor is different. If my tape helped, maybe it was because the thickness of the tape helped push down on all the other layers inside, compressing them a little on the edges, which might have prevented gaps or waviness in the diffuser layers.
> 
> The buttons do nothing, they're just parts used for monitors, some of which have actual menu and auto button controls. I've verified that the pins from these buttons go to the cable jack where there is no wire = they do nothing.


Thanks dascth.
I haven't received my monitors yet. They have made it to Singapore, still a long way to Australia.

I am pretty sure I will be taking them apart, at least remove the front bezel. I don't backlight bleed so will try initially filling the gap between the panel and metal frame to reduce it. With the cost of shipping back to Korea they are basically warranty less anyway so may as well open it up.
I was hoping they were of the inner box design where everything is attach to the front panel so so the back plastic panel can be removed as well. Then you can just mount them on a third party monitor stand. Looks like I'll have to keep the back plastic cover on though as it holds all the "guts" together.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> I see. 65hz doesn't work either. I can slightly see blue scan lines. 64hz worked.
> I would love to know I'm doing something wrong here.


If 64 worked, but no higher, that seems to indicate a different revision of the PCB. Interesting.


----------



## Jboss

I'm at 96 hz at the moment, no lines or anything but when i try 110 hz or 120 hz is when i see the lines. I have a question though!

When putting the settings under the LCD Reduced category do i have to input every other setting including the hz? Like the horizontal and vertical lines? I also don't notice the monitor getting darker so i must be doing something wrong right?

I have a HD 5850 so could my graphic card be a potential reason why it cannot go higher than 96 hz? I'm also using stock DVI cable from the ebay seller and i'll try a monoprice cable whenever it gets delivered!

Thanks!


----------



## RB Snake

I ordered my Qnix QX2710 from excellentcastle sunday night and it arrived here in Perth today. No dead or stuck pixels, and no bleed that I'm not mistaking for that normal IPS/PLS glow. It overclocked to 120Hz straight away, just went into the nvidia control panel and created a custom resolution with a 120Hz refresh rate.


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> I'm at 96 hz at the moment, no lines or anything but when i try 110 hz or 120 hz is when i see the lines. I have a question though!
> 
> When putting the settings under the LCD Reduced category do i have to input every other setting including the hz? Like the horizontal and vertical lines? I also don't notice the monitor getting darker so i must be doing something wrong right?


No, select LCD Reduced and enter the Hz at the bottom. The monitor really doesn't get that much darker at 96hz, especially if you are still running at full brightness (not 12 clicks up from min). If you are seeing scan lines at 110/120hz it's working.

I personally wouldn't push the monitor past 96hz.


----------



## MrGreenankle

Spoiler: First Impressions



Just got my matte X-star, AND I AM SO HAPPY!

As I said somewhere before I have had bad experiences with internet shopping so I was very worried for getting screwed over in some way...

0 dead pixels, minimal bleeding (can only see in dark room with black screen and even then you don't notice it if you don't look for it) and the resolution is amazing!

I AM SO HAPPY!!!!!!!!!!

Can upload some pics later if you guys want to see something specific about the X-star since the majority of all coverage here is for the Qnix!









Edit: Just overclocked it to 96 hz with no problems as well! So satisfied!!! How can I verify that it is actually showing 96 hz though? I can feel that it's smoother but maybe that's just placebo lol









Edit 2: the overclock definitely worked! tried panning the camera in LoL and the difference is actually bigger than I expected it to be! Just going to calibrate the screen now and then I'm set for breaking it in in a more hardcore fashion...









Would you guys say that 120 hz is a large improvement as well? Not sure if I want to go for it since it has been causing issues for some. If the difference is similar to the step between 60 and 96 I am definitely up for at least trying it out though.



Alright, feels like I need to show this screen some love and make a proper post about it... So, here we go. The above was my initial post, as you can see it was not very sophisticated and did not do this beauty justice!

Packaging:

Mine came very well packaged. It was in its original box with extra foam around it to make sure it arrived safely, which it certainly did. Very few marks or scratches even on the outer foam! I ordered it last weekend (Friday after working time in Korea), and it arrived this Thursday. Nobody was home to answer the door though so UPS had to make their second attempt today, which obviously was successful.





Once I opened the box the screen greeted me... I put it aside though and investigated the other contents of the box. A manual in all Korean, a wall adapter (aka " wonplug adopter"), dvi cable, power cable+brick, and sound cable. I wont be needing the adapter but it was a nice touch to the package, and maybe it will come in handy during future travels (especially since it came with an exclusive carrying-poach!).





The stand was quite hard to attach since there was no comprehensible instructions, but eventually I managed to figure out how it was meant to be attached. I'm not sure if the method used is weird or I as a monitor layman just did not know any better...









Sadly there was a sticker on the top left of the screen that did not look very good at all, and once removed it did leave behind some glue... Hate when that happens! That is my single biggest complaint over all though so I am certainly happy with it!











I plugged it in and started my computer. It worked without me doing anything, from the BIOS and onward. Windows automatically set the screen resolution, so I did not need to worry about that.

Once into the operative system I booted up tha interwebz and ran tests to check for dead pixels and bleeding. No dead pixels and minimal bleeding! Did not read the post about how to photograph bleeding yet and don't really care much about it since it does not worry me, but as you can see in this picture there is some bleeding in the bottom of the screen. Fixable, maybe, but it does not bother me to that degree. The image also makes it look a little worse than it actually is!



Calibration time! Since I am one of those lucky kids with a cool calibration device (Spyder 4 Pro), I decided to run a full calibration. The results were good, though the changes minimal (made the screen a little warmer).

Overclocking time! I was a little tense over this part (did not read much about the process beforehand, only that it had caused some problems for people), but once reading all the instructions I realized that it was pretty darn simple. Said and done, the screen now ran at 96 hz a few minutes later. Booted up League of Legends to see if there was any noticeable difference, and there was definitely! Panning the camera is a lot smoother on 96 hz than it is on the good ole 60. Not sure if I should make an attempt at 120 hz or not. Would you fellas recommend it?

After verifying that the overclocking did work, I ran a calibration again since the screen had changed from the overclocking. The brightness had dropped by 9 cd/m^2, did not check anything more besides that. To be honest I'm not very much into all this calibration stuff, even though I have had my calibration device for soon one year...

Either way, this is where I'm at at the moment. Extremely satisfied with my purchase! Felt it was a bit of a gamble to order an X-star since not many had done it (I think I was the tenth person in this thread), in addition to playing on the dead pixel, bleeding and overclocking lotto! Now I am to enjoy this bad boy throughout the entire weekend.

Full setup:


----------



## CptKuolio

Going to 120Hz from 96Hz is about the same leap as is going to 96Hz from 60Hz. So yes, 120Hz is definetly worth it if your monitor doesn't give out bad signal at 120hz, like scanlines or jitter or deformity in colours or something else.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwinston*
> 
> For those who have opened up the monitor, is it possible to remove the silver frame to apply electrical tape without taking out the whole panel?


Anyone?

Also I am confused about brightness click "instructions". As there is no OSD to tell you how do I know what is the "bottom"?


----------



## BradF1979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptKuolio*
> 
> Going to 120Hz from 96Hz is about the same leap as is going to 96Hz from 60Hz. So yes, 120Hz is definetly worth it if your monitor doesn't give out bad signal at 120hz, like scanlines or jitter or deformity in colours or something else.


60 to 96 is a 40% increase where as 96 to 120 is only a 25% increase. Sure noticeable, but the biggest jump comes from 60 to 96.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Ok guys please help, should I get a QNIX monitor or a pixel perfect crossover blade for the same price? I will be running 1 (probably two in the near future) 670. With all the reports of overclocking I would like the qnix however it will not be Perfect Pixel and they are generally much cheaper than the LG panels. Is the low cost of the Samsung panel due to build quality or because they are trying to aggressively get into the market? Thanks for your help.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> If my calibrations look crap on your monitor, then this one will too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, give it a try if you're wanting another 96Hz cal. I think there was only one available, so at least you can pick between two now.
> 
> QX2710 2013-04-28 D6500 2.2 HQ XYZLUT+MTX - 96Hz.zip 434k .zip file


a bit better, but still too bright/washed out on my matte panel. Seems like contrast is off


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Ok guys please help, should I get a QNIX monitor or a pixel perfect crossover blade for the same price? I will be running 1 (probably two in the near future) 670. With all the reports of overclocking I would like the qnix however it will not be Perfect Pixel and they are generally much cheaper than the LG panels. Is the low cost of the Samsung panel due to build quality or because they are trying to aggressively get into the market? Thanks for your help.


Pixel perfect is bs. Doesn't make any difference at all from what this and the other threads have concluded.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah forget Perfect Pixel, at least for more than $320. Shipping it back really is not a viable option regardless of what shape it's in.


----------



## MrGreenankle

What was it that you could do to remove artifacts while overclocking? I think there was some option... Don't remember where though. I'm running AMD.

Got scanlines when trying to push my monitor to 120hz, but I heard about other people having that issue as well but solving it through some settings. Was that only nvidia?


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> What was it that you could do to remove artifacts while overclocking? I think there was some option... Don't remember where though. I'm running AMD.
> 
> Got scanlines when trying to push my monitor to 120hz, but I heard about other people having that issue as well but solving it through some settings. Was that only nvidia?


Reduce DVI frequency?


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Reduce DVI frequency?


So that was what it was called... Bummer, already had that one checked. Seems like I'll stick with 96 hz then.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

By artifacts do you mean in game or lines on the desktop when you apply the overclock? I am getting apparent scan lines when overclocking 7950 via AfterBurner at 96Hz. Can use it to up the voltage and then up clocks with CCC without issue but that limits my core, as we all know.


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> By artifacts do you mean in game or lines on the desktop when you apply the overclock? I am getting apparent scan lines when overclocking 7950 via AfterBurner at 96Hz. Can use it to up the voltage and then up clocks with CCC without issue but that limits my core, as we all know.


Get them on desktop. Is there anything to fix this, you say?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

What are you overclocking with? If not using AMD Overdrive try that instead (up to 1100 core anyway).


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> What are you overclocking with? If not using AMD Overdrive try that instead (up to 1100 core anyway).


Wait, what? Are you talking about overclocking graphics cards now? :s

I get scan lines with 120hz overclock on my monitor.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> No, select LCD Reduced and enter the Hz at the bottom. The monitor really doesn't get that much darker at 96hz, especially if you are still running at full brightness (not 12 clicks up from min). If you are seeing scan lines at 110/120hz it's working.
> 
> I personally wouldn't push the monitor past 96hz.


I see, i'll try to get a monoprice cable and see how well it goes.
Does Reduce DVI frequency help with overclocking?

Thanks!


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: First Impressions
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my matte X-star, AND I AM SO HAPPY!
> 
> As I said somewhere before I have had bad experiences with internet shopping so I was very worried for getting screwed over in some way...
> 
> 0 dead pixels, minimal bleeding (can only see in dark room with black screen and even then you don't notice it if you don't look for it) and the resolution is amazing!
> 
> I AM SO HAPPY!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Can upload some pics later if you guys want to see something specific about the X-star since the majority of all coverage here is for the Qnix!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Just overclocked it to 96 hz with no problems as well! So satisfied!!! How can I verify that it is actually showing 96 hz though? I can feel that it's smoother but maybe that's just placebo lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit 2: the overclock definitely worked! tried panning the camera in LoL and the difference is actually bigger than I expected it to be! Just going to calibrate the screen now and then I'm set for breaking it in in a more hardcore fashion...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you guys say that 120 hz is a large improvement as well? Not sure if I want to go for it since it has been causing issues for some. If the difference is similar to the step between 60 and 96 I am definitely up for at least trying it out though.
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, feels like I need to show this screen some love and make a proper post about it... So, here we go. The above was my initial post, as you can see it was not very sophisticated and did not do this beauty justice!
> 
> Packaging:
> 
> Mine came very well packaged. It was in its original box with extra foam around it to make sure it arrived safely, which it certainly did. Very few marks or scratches even on the outer foam! I ordered it last weekend (Friday after working time in Korea), and it arrived this Thursday. Nobody was home to answer the door though so UPS had to make their second attempt today, which obviously was successful.
> 
> Once I opened the box the screen greeted me... I put it aside though and investigated the other contents of the box. A manual in all Korean, a wall adapter (aka " wonplug adopter"), dvi cable, power cable+brick, and sound cable. I wont be needing the adapter but it was a nice touch to the package, and maybe it will come in handy during future travels (especially since it came with an exclusive carrying-poach!).
> 
> The stand was quite hard to attach since there was no comprehensible instructions, but eventually I managed to figure out how it was meant to be attached. I'm not sure if the method used is weird or I as a monitor layman just did not know any better...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly there was a sticker on the top left of the screen that did not look very good at all, and once removed it did leave behind some glue... Hate when that happens! That is my single biggest complaint over all though so I am certainly happy with it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plugged it in and started my computer. It worked without me doing anything, from the BIOS and onward. Windows automatically set the screen resolution, so I did not need to worry about that.
> 
> Once into the operative system I booted up tha interwebz and ran tests to check for dead pixels and bleeding. No dead pixels and minimal bleeding! Did not read the post about how to photograph bleeding yet and don't really care much about it since it does not worry me, but as you can see in this picture there is some bleeding in the bottom of the screen. Fixable, maybe, but it does not bother me to that degree. The image also makes it look a little worse than it actually is!
> 
> Calibration time! Since I am one of those lucky kids with a cool calibration device (Spyder 4 Pro), I decided to run a full calibration. The results were good, though the changes minimal (made the screen a little warmer).
> 
> Overclocking time! I was a little tense over this part (did not read much about the process beforehand, only that it had caused some problems for people), but once reading all the instructions I realized that it was pretty darn simple. Said and done, the screen now ran at 96 hz a few minutes later. Booted up League of Legends to see if there was any noticeable difference, and there was definitely! Panning the camera is a lot smoother on 96 hz than it is on the good ole 60. Not sure if I should make an attempt at 120 hz or not. Would you fellas recommend it?
> 
> After verifying that the overclocking did work, I ran a calibration again since the screen had changed from the overclocking. The brightness had dropped by 9 cd/m^2, did not check anything more besides that. To be honest I'm not very much into all this calibration stuff, even though I have had my calibration device for soon one year...
> 
> Either way, this is where I'm at at the moment. Extremely satisfied with my purchase! Felt it was a bit of a gamble to order an X-star since not many had done it (I think I was the tenth person in this thread), in addition to playing on the dead pixel, bleeding and overclocking lotto! Now I am to enjoy this bad boy throughout the entire weekend.
> 
> Full setup:


Thank you for posting! I too ordered an x star for $286 and am expecting the same results as you as these panels should be identical just like the shimian/catleap monitors. Also, the sellers said they were the same thing.


----------



## Jinru

Has it been verified that trying a different DVI cable can improve your OC chances? Has anyone on OCN had that experience?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cwinston*
> 
> For those who have opened up the monitor, is it possible to remove the silver frame to apply electrical tape without taking out the whole panel?
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> Also I am confused about brightness click "instructions". As there is no OSD to tell you how do I know what is the "bottom"?
Click to expand...

By adding the electrical tape, you are talking about adding them as 'shims' to stop the panel play (wntrsnowg mod)? In that case, the panel has to be unscrewed from the metal frames on each side. This is done by unscrewing the 2 screws per side which connect the screen to the frame. Then, the screen can be moved around while still keeping the screen connections in tact (no need to unplug anything). There will be enough movement to do one side of the monitor casing at a time.

About the brightness. I replied to your pm, but let me post here as well. Bottom and top brightness are achieved by holding their respective button and waiting for both of two things. For the brightness values to not change visually, and also for the blue light on the monitor to stop blinking.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Has it been verified that trying a different DVI cable can improve your OC chances? Has anyone on OCN had that experience?


I've seen people reporting that their OC varried per video card, and per cable. How much, I don't know. I've been following your case, and it seems that the prospect of ever hitting 100 Hz seems unlikely, unfortunately


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well I am using the stock cable at present but I also have a seemingly high quality and brand new one that shipped with a $2300 professional NEC 30" at work. So I suppose I will see if it makes any kind of difference.


----------



## BradF1979

I would love to order one from Monoprice, but shipping kills the deal. Might as well try to find one on Amazon.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Has it been verified that trying a different DVI cable can improve your OC chances? Has anyone on OCN had that experience?


The cable seems to make a little bit of a difference. I think my monitor cannot handle 120hz since no matter what cable I use I do get scan lines.

Here is a test I did with each cable, running at 120hz LCD Reduced and Reduce DVI Frequency checked in CCC.

*Random cable I had (not the QNIX cable):* No scan lines on the desktop, a minuscule amount in games although it's hard to see. The best one I've tried but the problem is it's too short









*Monoprice 24AWG cable 1:* Scan lines on the desktop like crazy, the display was actually shaking (even though my monitor was still). Forget about in games. This one's a dud for 120hz.

*Monoprice 24AWG cable 2:* No scan lines on desktop, very few in games, although more than the random cable in my first test.

Who would've though that a random generic cable I had could beat two Monoprice cables with the thickness of snakes. I've also come to the conclusion that's it's my monitor as well, so a cable won't make a huge difference. I'll probably keep it at 110hz.


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I've seen people reporting that their OC varried per video card, and per cable. How much, I don't know. I've been following your case, and it seems that the prospect of ever hitting 100 Hz seems unlikely, unfortunately


Ya, you're probably right. I guess I'll keep it stock until I upgrade my rig a couple years down the line and then give it another go. My vid card has a hard enough time running games at 60hz atm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> The cable seems to make a little bit of a difference. I think my monitor cannot handle 120hz since no matter what cable I use I do get scan lines.
> 
> Here is a test I did with each cable, running at 120hz LCD Reduced and Reduce DVI Frequency checked in CCC.
> 
> *Random cable I had (not the QNIX cable):* No scan lines on the desktop, a minuscule amount in games although it's hard to see. The best one I've tried but the problem is it's too short
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Monoprice 24AWG cable 1:* Scan lines on the desktop like crazy, the display was actually shaking (even though my monitor was still). Forget about in games. This one's a dud for 120hz.
> 
> *Monoprice 24AWG cable 2:* No scan lines on desktop, very few in games, although more than the random cable in my first test.
> 
> Who would've though that a random generic cable I had could beat two Monoprice cables with the thickness of snakes. I've also come to the conclusion that's it's my monitor as well, so a cable won't make a huge difference. I'll probably keep it at 110hz.


Thanks for the info!


----------



## bhazard451

The default cable it comes with does slightly better than my 28awg monoprice. Not worth switching.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhazard451*
> 
> The default cable it comes with does slightly better than my 28awg monoprice. Not worth switching.


I wonder if anyone experienced the complete opposite or not..


----------



## Cwinston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> By adding the electrical tape, you are talking about adding them as 'shims' to stop the panel play (wntrsnowg mod)? In that case, the panel has to be unscrewed from the metal frames on each side. This is done by unscrewing the 2 screws per side which connect the screen to the frame. Then, the screen can be moved around while still keeping the screen connections in tact (no need to unplug anything). There will be enough movement to do one side of the monitor casing at a time.


No I meant taping the frame to try fixing bleed. But it seems what you mentioned means I can leave the panel alone while tinkering with the frame.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah there is apparently a "tape fix" that helps bleed too. Cwinston please post your experiences if/when you open it. Thanks!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/290#post_19747446


----------



## SEALBoy

All right, here is my experience (no pics, sorry, I'm lazy):

Ordered from hulustar, the special event Qnix QX2710 (0-2 dead pixels) for $317 shipped.

Got here on Thursday morning, ordered late Monday night (I'm in Seattle, but it went to Cincinnati first).

No dead pixels: yay!

120Hz with no artifacts. Using the 24AWG Monoprice cable, didn't try the stock cable. All I did was create a custom resolution in nVidia Control Panel for my GTX 680. The display DID darken after I switched to 120Hz, but I used nVidia's color controls to increase my gamma and everything looks fine now. I don't have a color-meter-thing, but nothing looks oversaturated or washed out, so I'm thinking it's reasonably color-accurate. Better than my old TN anyways (which was actually a decent TN panel - Dell SP2309W).

I pulled up a black screen video on YouTube and that's where my luck failed me. There were relatively large splotches of yellow backlight leakage on the bottom of the monitor, as well as a weak splotch on the top. The very left edge of the monitor had several thin groupings of pixels that were lighter than the rest of the screen. I took off the front bezel of the monitor (careful, I'm 99% sure this will make it impossible to return the monitor for whatever reason). With the bezel off, the yellow splotches seemed to be a little less intense. What I've done since then is put the bezel back on, but kept the bottom side from clipping in. This ensures there is no pressure on the screen on the bottom side. I can live with the pixels on the left edge (not noticeable in normal usage), as well as the weak patch on top.

I was also able to decrease the intensity of the yellow on the bottom side with a method that I haven't seen mentioned before: I took a clean microfiber cloth (the car detailing type, not the phone screen type) and basically tapped on the screen. I tapped fairly hard too, enough for the display to "flash" due to the pressure. I don't know why, but this helped me eliminate concentrated backlight leakage (likely by relieving concentrated stresses in the screen). There's still some leakage, but none of that "pinching" you might see on some of the display pictures other people have posted here. I'm not entirely sure I recommend this method, all I know is that I am going to treat my display like it's made of diamond so there is no chance of those spots coming back.


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> a bit better, but still too bright/washed out on my matte panel. Seems like contrast is off


Calibrations don't improve contrast. Whites and blacks can't get farther apart after you calibrate (sadly). That's something inherent in the panel type you choose.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> If my calibrations look crap on your monitor, then this one will too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, give it a try if you're wanting another 96Hz cal. I think there was only one available, so at least you can pick between two now.
> 
> QX2710 2013-04-28 D6500 2.2 HQ XYZLUT+MTX - 96Hz.zip 434k .zip file


This one's a winner for me, thanks!


----------



## atomicmew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sammysamsam*
> 
> Thank you for posting! I too ordered an x star for $286 and am expecting the same results as you as these panels should be identical just like the shimian/catleap monitors. Also, the sellers said they were the same thing.


Can you link the 286 deal? Lowest I see is 300.


----------



## telzum

is there any risk by overclocking to 120hz?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No specific risk that is known afaik; plenty of OC'd Catleaps still chugging along.

Well my bleed is definitely lessened by lowering brightness...perhaps that's not news to anyone and of course is the case...


----------



## telzum

thanks good to know









i can report another qnix from hulustar´s 0-2 "special" - no dead pixel, minimal bleeding at the top right corner, 120hz


----------



## skyisover

I think I got a DOA monitor. I used the DVI cable they gave me and used the adapter given from hulustar and I get only lines all over the monitor. Maybe I'm setting it up wrong but I think it's broken.


----------



## atomicmew

I got that kind of thing with my Shimian sometimes, a power cycle usually fixes it. Try turning your monitor off and on a few times. Make sure your DVI connection is secure and is going to your GPU's DVI-D connection NOT DVI-I.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I'm at 120Hz right now. A second ago saw a red scan line but now it's gone. Very dark before tweaking/calibrating, as others have said.

Good luck, skyisover, I thought it might be toast when I first saw your pics but the above post sounds hopeful.


----------



## Jinru

And make sure the DVi cable they provided you is a Dual Link. Some are coming packaged with a Single Link.


----------



## skyisover

Yep turns out I was plugging the cable into the single link slot of my video card. Can't believe I missed that and was going to return it. Thanks guys. I'll post picks of the WORKING version maybe tomorrow,


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Raising the display with a book, tilting forward so straight vertical (which I would do anyway) as well as moving it a bit closer to me has removed most of the two bottom bleed spots from view. Still some top right but not so bright or large and also is dependent on angle.


----------



## GoldenTiger

About to buy one of these.... Looking at the Qnix QX2710 Evolution 2.... trying to decide whether to go for matte or gloss. I am used to matte coatings on my Dell monitors such as the 2005fpw, a 3007wfp-hc I had and more recently a U3011. Any thoughts? Would a matte one be similar to what I'm used to? Glare would generally not be an issue from windows for me.


----------



## Spartan F8

Well finally got all my issues sorted out at 120hz. The last thing i was having an issue with was a slight flicker and scanlines at 120hz. I was doing some searching and found a guy in the catleap 2b section who said he fixed it by setting the CRU settings to LCD reduced and then changing the sync polarity to + + instead of + -. After doing this my scanlines and slight flicker is gone. It also seemed to help my cloudiness or uniformity even more.

Hope this help some people

I would post who said it but i can't find the post again (was doing a ton of research and kept in mind and went on surfing before i tried it)


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Well finally got all my issues sorted out at 120hz. The last thing i was having an issue with was a slight flicker and scanlines at 120hz. I was doing some searching and found a guy in the catleap 2b section who said he fixed it by setting the CRU settings to LCD reduced and then changing the sync polarity to + + instead of + -. After doing this my scanlines and slight flicker is gone. It also seemed to help my cloudiness or uniformity even more.
> 
> Hope this help some people
> 
> I would post who said it but i can't find the post again (was doing a ton of research and kept in mind and went on surfing before i tried it)


I'm really curious to know what changing all these values in the CRU does and what is the right way to adjust them for our monitors. I have only a few scan lines left in games I just need a little more tweaking and hopefully I'll be able to get rid of them, but I'm wondering how else this affects the monitor.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> About to buy one of these.... Looking at the Qnix QX2710 Evolution 2.... trying to decide whether to go for matte or gloss. I am used to matte coatings on my Dell monitors such as the 2005fpw, a 3007wfp-hc I had and more recently a U3011. Any thoughts? Would a matte one be similar to what I'm used to? Glare would generally not be an issue from windows for me.


I originally ordered glossy but got a matte one. The matte coating is less aggresive than any TN panel I have ever had. It is in fact a semi-glossy. I do not have day reflection problems but keep in mind that electrical lights at night still can cause bad reflections. On my matte Qnix, electrical lights cause a noticeable diffusion reflection on a black background. I think it is a good mix between glossy and traditional matte.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Well finally got all my issues sorted out at 120hz. The last thing i was having an issue with was a slight flicker and scanlines at 120hz. I was doing some searching and found a guy in the catleap 2b section who said he fixed it by setting the CRU settings to LCD reduced and then changing the sync polarity to + + instead of + -. After doing this my scanlines and slight flicker is gone. It also seemed to help my cloudiness or uniformity even more.
> 
> Hope this help some people
> 
> I would post who said it but i can't find the post again (was doing a ton of research and kept in mind and went on surfing before i tried it)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I'm really curious to know what changing all these values in the CRU does and what is the right way to adjust them for our monitors. I have only a few scan lines left in games I just need a little more tweaking and hopefully I'll be able to get rid of them, but I'm wondering how else this affects the monitor.


Can someone would be so kind to make a guide on how to configure these other settings like sync polarity / all those different values in the CRU controls without messing everything up?

Thanks







!


----------



## dascth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Can someone would be so kind to make a guide on how to configure these other settings like sync polarity / all those different values in the CRU controls without messing everything up?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


All I know is I tested the polarity idea and it didn't help my screen uniformity. I just end up sticking with LCD reduced and then trying out different refresh rates. I can get to about 135, but I don't even like using 120 for how severe the dark patches get on the screen.


----------



## telzum

something happened over night








i created custom resolutions (96,120) with cru-1.0 yesterday (nvidia card / qnix monitor).
everything was working fine - could use 120 without any graphical errors.

i tried to boot into windows today - no picture. after booting into safe mode and removing both custom resolutions, windows is displaying a picture again in normal/testmode.
what went wrong?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I originally ordered glossy but got a matte one. The matte coating is less aggresive than any TN panel I have ever had. It is in fact a semi-glossy. I do not have day reflection problems but keep in mind that electrical lights at night still can cause bad reflections. On my matte Qnix, electrical lights cause a noticeable diffusion reflection on a black background. I think it is a good mix between glossy and traditional matte.


Thanks! I'm going to play it safe and go for matte then







.


----------



## uberniner

hello guys!

i have purchased perfect pixel QX2710 from dream-seller.
- the screen OCs to 110Hz without artifacts.
- fixed BLB easily with office paper pushed between the steel frame and the panel itself

but i found out that there are at least 3 stuck pixels in the corner, and also some sort of smudges (2x2 darker pixels) ... what should i do now? get different one from the seller or a discout?
please give me tips, ill be grateful.

here is image of the faulty pixels https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/479389_4876240579522_922879615_o.jpg

if u have questions regarding the blb fix, feel free to ask.


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uberniner*
> 
> hello guys!
> 
> i have purchased perfect pixel QX2710 from dream-seller.
> - the screen OCs to 110Hz without artifacts.
> - fixed BLB easily with office paper pushed between the steel frame and the panel itself
> 
> but i found out that there are at least 3 stuck pixels in the corner, and also some sort of smudges (2x2 darker pixels) ... what should i do now? get different one from the seller or a discout?
> please give me tips, ill be grateful.
> 
> here is image of the faulty pixels https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/479389_4876240579522_922879615_o.jpg
> 
> if u have questions regarding the blb fix, feel free to ask.


I think you should just ignore it. The dead pixels are at the far corners anyway, you won't notice it when you're gaming or doing work.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Calibrations don't improve contrast. Whites and blacks can't get farther apart after you calibrate (sadly). That's something inherent in the panel type you choose.


My bad i loaded a wrong profile, this 96Hz is really good. Thanks a lot.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Can someone would be so kind to make a guide on how to configure these other settings like sync polarity / all those different values in the CRU controls without messing everything up?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


I don't have a guide but reading over the origin forum regarding this tool would definitely get you a good start

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/

Another source would be to read(as i did) over the very similar endeavor several people made for years now with the catleap 2B monitors. I found this to be very informative and helped quite a bit in several areas of getting 120hz.

The last reading source i would recommend is IPS technology documentation as understanding the technology as a whole is very necessary to pushing the limits of it.

Hope this kinda helps


----------



## Paps.pt

Hello everyone.

I still use a samsung syncmaster 21 inch CRT for gaming and surfing the WebI use . the resolution 1600x1200 @ 100hz,with a 2500k oced and two gtx570 in sli so most of the games have a good fps with vertical sync on.
I ve never seen a 1440p monitor but I want to jump on the wagon even though I know I will probably have to upgrade my GPUs to two gtx 670, for example.

Couple of questions:

- is the QNIX good for gaming or will I deeply regret it because of lag and ghosting? Anyone also came from a CRT?
- is it worth buying the perfect pixels version from eBay (20 bucks more) or is it a gimmick?

Cheers


----------



## atomicmew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> I still use a samsung syncmaster 21 inch CRT for gaming and surfing the WebI use . the resolution 1600x1200 @ 100hz,with a 2500k oced and two gtx570 in sli so most of the games have a good fps with vertical sync on.
> I ve never seen a 1440p monitor but I want to jump on the wagon even though I know I will probably have to upgrade my GPUs to two gtx 670, for example.
> 
> Couple of questions:
> 
> - is the QNIX good for gaming or will I deeply regret it because of lag and ghosting? Anyone also came from a CRT?
> - is it worth buying the perfect pixels version from eBay (20 bucks more) or is it a gimmick?
> 
> Cheers


Once you go to 1440p you'll have a hard time going back. I recently sold my shimian and I'm temporarily on my old syncmaster as well, I am really hating every minute of it. The viewing angle is horrible, the colors aren't as good and the contrast is so much poorer that it literally made things harder to read . It's insane how much better the quality is compared to a normal TN.

Pixel perfect is not worth buying and it is a gimmick. Some sellers don't even mean pixel perfect but list it as such anyway. It's very dishonest. I would say the odds of getting a pixel perfect are about the same regardless of what you order. I ordered my shimian as a pixel perfect, but it still had dead pixels. I demanded the price difference and only resolved the issue with the seller after several weeks. The above poster mentioned buying a pixel perfect and still having dead pixels, so that's 2/2 pixel "perfect" models having dead pixels.

It's also extremly hard to spot dead pixels unless you're looking for them on a solid white background. For normal use, just put away your OCD and you will forget that they are even there.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> I still use a samsung syncmaster 21 inch CRT for gaming and surfing the WebI use . the resolution 1600x1200 @ 100hz,with a 2500k oced and two gtx570 in sli so most of the games have a good fps with vertical sync on.
> I ve never seen a 1440p monitor but I want to jump on the wagon even though I know I will probably have to upgrade my GPUs to two gtx 670, for example.
> 
> Couple of questions:
> 
> - is the QNIX good for gaming or will I deeply regret it because of lag and ghosting? Anyone also came from a CRT?
> - is it worth buying the perfect pixels version from eBay (20 bucks more) or is it a gimmick?
> 
> Cheers


-It's amazing, I play quake a lot these days and notice no lag whatsoever
-Not really
If you can manage w/o AA then a single 670 will yield great results.


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> I still use a samsung syncmaster 21 inch CRT for gaming and surfing the WebI use . the resolution 1600x1200 @ 100hz,with a 2500k oced and two gtx570 in sli so most of the games have a good fps with vertical sync on.
> I ve never seen a 1440p monitor but I want to jump on the wagon even though I know I will probably have to upgrade my GPUs to two gtx 670, for example.
> 
> Couple of questions:
> 
> - is the QNIX good for gaming or will I deeply regret it because of lag and ghosting? Anyone also came from a CRT?
> - is it worth buying the perfect pixels version from eBay (20 bucks more) or is it a gimmick?
> 
> Cheers


Good for gaming, yes. Very low input lag since it does not have any OSD.

Pixel perfect is NOT worth it from what we've seen in this thread (and the other one as well). Pixel perfect means up to 2 dead pixels, and it's uncommon to get more than 2 dead pixels for non-pixel perfect.

A lot of people (me included) have bought regular ones and received screens with 0 dead pixels.

The thing you should worry rather more about is backlight bleeding, but there is no warranty that covers that either way, so you can't really do much about it.


----------



## phillyd

Anybody know the pros/cons of IPS and PLS monitors?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Anybody know the pros/cons of IPS and PLS monitors?


There is not much of a difference. PLS is supposed to be an improvement over IPS. From what i have seen so far literally having them side by side is teh PLS seems to have a bit better dark colors(especially deep blacks) and the IPS has a little bit better brights(might just be brighter rather than better) Below is a comparison at the pixel level. Any real world difference is not going to really be seen so it is a matter of preference. I can say that PLS is supposed to be a bit cheaper to make(not cheaper but easier to make)

E-IPS



PLS



Also a huge comparison from elsewhere on teh forum


----------



## phillyd

Sounds like I'll be going with a PLS monitor then! hopefully by the end of june.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Ordering an X-STAR DP2710 PLS Matte from bigclothcraft @ 300 shipped.... now! I'll let you all know once it's in and how it oc's...







.


----------



## TesseractOrion

I know I'm being hella thick, but I can't see 'LCD Reduced' in CRU, only 'Best for LCD', 'Best for CRT' and 'Manual' in a drop-down menu.









PS Another Qnix Glossy (and Catleap 2B) owner here: no stuck/dead pixels, backlight bleed apparent on lower edge, as is the slight 'bow' effect (masking some pixels) of the bottom bezel. IMHO a better picture than 2Bs, redder though and much darker @ 120hz (not gone higher). Flickering green horizontal scan-lines on films, I don't notice them if they appear at all in games. Some full-screen flickering occasionally. Using cable provided.

Bought from Dream-seller, 6 days with Fedex to UK no customs charge or duty (yet! They'll probably nab me later I'm sure) so £200 so far...









Oh, AMD 7950 @ 1000/5000 in case that has any bearing.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

The Timings drop down in Detailed Resolutions? I don't see "Best" anywhere...huh.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> I know I'm being hella thick, but I can't see 'LCD Reduced' in CRU, only 'Best for LCD', 'Best for CRT' and 'Manual' in a drop-down menu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS Another Qnix Glossy (and Catleap 2B) owner here: no stuck/dead pixels, backlight bleed apparent on lower edge, as is the slight 'bow' effect (masking some pixels) of the bottom bezel. IMHO a better picture than 2Bs, redder though and much darker @ 120hz (not gone higher). Flickering green horizontal scan-lines on films, I don't notice them if they appear at all in games. Some full-screen flickering occasionally. Using cable provided.
> 
> Bought from Dream-seller, 6 days with Fedex to UK no customs charge or duty (yet! They'll probably nab me later I'm sure) so £200 so far...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, AMD 7950 @ 1000/5000 in case that has any bearing.


If I remember right, LCD reduced is a check box option in the CRU popup window when making a new refresh rate profile.

The bowing effect causing lines of the screen to be cut off at the bottom was present for me too. Fixed it by wntrsnowg mod. Look at the spoilers in the op


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> The Timings drop down in Detailed Resolutions? I don't see "Best" anywhere...huh.


Sorry, should have been clearer: the dropdown says (in mine at least LOL): 'Manual', 'Automatic-Best for LCD', 'Automatic-Best for CRT' in that order.

Are there different versions of the CRU maybe







?


----------



## Paps.pt

Thanks for the input guys! 

If we are able to OC the monitor to 120mhz, does this mean that we can get it to work with 3D Vision? Is it real 120mhz, able to display 120fps?


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> If I remember right, LCD reduced is a check box option in the CRU popup window when making a new refresh rate profile.
> 
> The bowing effect causing lines of the screen to be cut off at the bottom was present for me too. Fixed it by wntrsnowg mod. Look at the spoilers in the op


Check box!? I only see it in the drop down menu but when i select LCD Reduced and changed the HZ to 120 the header goes to "Manual", is that right?


----------



## hakkafusion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Thanks for the input guys!
> 
> If we are able to OC the monitor to 120mhz, does this mean that we can get it to work with 3D Vision? Is it real 120mhz, able to display 120fps?


hz, not mhz.
though i'd like to see 120 mhz, someday, if thats even possible. lol
afaik it's definitely not officially support, and not many has had much luck getting it to work flawlessly.
you're welcome to try though
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=22264499


----------



## TarAldarion

Overclocked mine to 120hz and it worked fine. Even works when i put it to sleep and bring it back. but if I power off and turn back on I get a black screen after the windows splash now, so must have some setting wrong. Any ideas?


----------



## skyisover

I just realized that I can push a tiny part of my panel in. Like when I press my finger on the bottom left side of the monitor, it would go in slightly. Should I worry about this?


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyisover*
> 
> I just realized that I can push a tiny part of my panel in. Like when I press my finger on the bottom left side of the monitor, it would go in slightly. Should I worry about this?


I don't think so, I read that Russian site review and they showed exactly that, it's just poor mounting standards. The important thing is that the image quality is good, right? That, along with a good price! ;-)


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyisover*
> 
> I just realized that I can push a tiny part of my panel in. Like when I press my finger on the bottom left side of the monitor, it would go in slightly. Should I worry about this?


That is what we call 'panel play' there is a fix in the op.

update: added a change log to the op, updates will be posted there for quick reference


----------



## telzum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> Overclocked mine to 120hz and it worked fine. Even works when i put it to sleep and bring it back. but if I power off and turn back on I get a black screen after the windows splash now, so must have some setting wrong. Any ideas?


i have to exact same problem.
i could only get it back to boot into windows after removing the custom resolution via cru in windows safe mode.
if you find a solution - pls post it


----------



## TarAldarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telzum*
> 
> i have to exact same problem.
> i could only get it back to boot into windows after removing the custom resolution via cru in windows safe mode.
> if you find a solution - pls post it


I will do, you too. Do you just not OC it now and l;eave it at 60? I'll have to test it at some other refresh.


----------



## Jboss

My monitor seems to have some grease stains on the monitor screen - anyone else have this? It's like greasy fingerprints!

I don't know if it was my fault or not but yeah haha.


----------



## davey1694

I'm currently thinking of buying a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution 2 matte monitor, this one to be exact and I was just wondering from anybody in the UK how bad customs has been.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davey1694*
> 
> I'm currently thinking of buying a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution 2 matte monitor, this one to be exact and I was just wondering from anybody in the UK how bad customs has been.


been thinking about buying from that seller also but I live in Portugal. Is the matte really much better than the glossy?


----------



## davey1694

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> been thinking about buying from that seller also but I live in Portugal. Is the matte really much better than the glossy?


It all really comes down to your environment, if you have lights facing or pointing down at your monitor or windows then it's not going to look good with a glossy, *it will* reflect.

Where as matte won't obviously, also I just prefer not to have glass in front of the panel, though it does look nice.

Also I don't own any of these displays yet so I can't speak about them specifically.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davey1694*
> 
> I'm currently thinking of buying a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution 2 matte monitor, this one to be exact and I was just wondering from anybody in the UK how bad customs has been.


Customs depends on the marked value of the item. Look in the OP for an expandable section on customs taxes and vat by country. There is a link to a customs calculator there


----------



## davey1694

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Customs depends on the marked value of the item. Look in the OP for an expandable section on customs taxes and vat by country. There is a link to a customs calculator there


Yeah I've calculated it, the price wasn't desirable to say the least.
I'm just wondering if anybody and how many people have been hit hard with customs in the UK.


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davey1694*
> 
> I'm currently thinking of buying a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution 2 matte monitor, this one to be exact and I was just wondering from anybody in the UK how bad customs has been.


Customs hasn't harassed me as of yet









PS My Catleap didn't attract any custom charges either (and shouldn't have tbh since we have a EU-SK free trade agreement - I know there was some controversy about monitors and Tvs but AFAIK that's been resolved).

Fedex hasn't billed me either, they certainly didn't at the door (I asked the courier specifically if there was more to pay). But I wouldn't put it past HMRC to leave a gap and then pounce l8r








but as yet no demand for VAT so just £200 inc. del so far (cross fingers)...

Even if they do hit me with VAT it'll still work out at less than half the price I paid for the Catleap 2b...


----------



## wntrsnowg

I've seen quite a few. Its unavoidable to pay nothing though. The best you can do is leave a note on the ebay purchase instructing the seller to mark the item as a gift and at a low value


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I've seen quite a few. Its unavoidable to pay nothing though. The best you can do is leave a note on the ebay purchase instructing the seller to mark the item as a gift and at a low value


Yeah I did that with Dream-seller but he replied (very quickly) that he couldn't do that so I'm presuming he didn't...


----------



## davey1694

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> Customs hasn't harassed me as of yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS My Catleap didn't attract any custom charges either (and shouldn't have tbh since we have a EU-SK free trade agreement - I know there was some controversy about monitors and Tvs but AFAIK that's been resolved).
> 
> Fedex hasn't billed me either, they certainly didn't at the door (I asked the courier specifically if there was more to pay). But I wouldn't put it past HMRC to leave a gap and then pounce l8r
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but as yet no demand for VAT so just £200 inc. del so far (cross fingers)...
> 
> Even if they do hit me with VAT it'll still work out at less than half the price I paid for the Catleap 2b...


Thanks a lot for all the info, it's nice to hear a good experience.


----------



## dir_d

My x-star glossy is steady at 110hz. At 120 there are lines but I'm gonna try some different configuration to try to get 120 stable.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Hopefully dream-seller just said that he couldn't, but actually will? To avoid trouble by leaving no evidence of intention


----------



## skyisover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> That is what we call 'panel play' there is a fix in the op.
> 
> update: added a change log to the op, updates will be posted there for quick reference


I don't think my image is being cut off though. And the assembly isn't bad as the one in the video. Mine only goes very slightly in. Should it be worth the hassle to fix it though?


----------



## Beatwolf

So what exactly is the difference between the x-star and the Qnix? Something about the logo in the left? Seems that most people are going for the Qnix..


----------



## jpak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> been thinking about buying from that seller also but I live in Portugal. Is the matte really much better than the glossy?


It is all personal preference and helps if you've owned a glossy monitor or notebook before. Reflections will always be an issue on glossy unless you have extremely bad and non-sensitive eyes. But they will be perfect if you are in a hidden room such as the basement. If you've always owned matte monitors and never complained, you should prob just stick with matte because the display of these monitors are amazing


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Hopefully dream-seller just said that he couldn't, but actually will? To avoid trouble by leaving no evidence of intention


Hmm, hadn't thought of that... Hope so!









And now, for some music:


----------



## jpak

Purchased my Xstar Matte from bigclothcraft last Saturday @ $286.96.. the price has been upped to $300 now. No dead pixels which I am really pleased about. First picture is backlight bleed from default nvidia settings on a GTX 550ti and maxing out brightness using monitor control. Second picture is the brightness setting I have for everyday use (can only notice bottom right and ever so slightly in the bottom left and top right corner), so this is the perfect monitor for me =D. Extremely happy!




YUP, I like my monitor dim! People always complain that my phone is too dim too lol


----------



## jpak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So what exactly is the difference between the x-star and the Qnix? Something about the logo in the left? Seems that most people are going for the Qnix..


More people lean towards Qnix because there is a better chance of receiving an overclockable monitor. This is merely speculation, but polls do show a significant amount of owners who have been able to get 80-90hz+ to run stable and there have been more tests and results on the Qnix as opposed to the Xstar, which most new buyers are going off of. Have to keep in mind that luck is also a big factor when getting your monitor =X


----------



## Beatwolf

allright will order a Qnix from excellentcastle now then. Who knows how long these will be available and/or overclockable.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpak*
> 
> Purchased my Xstar Matte from bigclothcraft last Saturday @ $286.96.. the price has been upped to $300 now. No dead pixels which I am really pleased about. First picture is backlight bleed from default nvidia settings on a GTX 550ti and maxing out brightness using monitor control. Second picture is the brightness setting I have for everyday use (can only notice bottom right and ever so slightly in the bottom left and top right corner), so this is the perfect monitor for me =D. Extremely happy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YUP, I like my monitor dim! People always complain that my phone is too dim too lol


That's minor backlight bleeding.


----------



## telzum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> I will do, you too. Do you just not OC it now and l;eave it at 60? I'll have to test it at some other refresh.


i just changed it back to 60 when i shutdown my pc. sucks to do it manually every time but better than reboot two times to remove the settings completly


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpak*
> 
> It is all personal preference and helps if you've owned a glossy monitor or notebook before. Reflections will always be an issue on glossy unless you have extremely bad and non-sensitive eyes. But they will be perfect if you are in a hidden room such as the basement. If you've always owned matte monitors and never complained, you should prob just stick with matte because the display of these monitors are amazing


Thanks for the input. I have never owned a glossy or matte monitor or laptop, just CRTs, so I don't really know the difference. What I can tell you is that my pc is in a dark place with no windows and just a lamp that I turn on at night so I can see the keyboard. My wife does turn on the room top lights so. Even so, I believe the safest thing to do will be to order the matte finish version, right? I mean, is the glossy one much more sharper?


----------



## jakubk

After a couple of months of considering the risks, I have just ordered a glossy QNIX from dream-seller to the Czech Republic. Wish me luck! I haven't seen anybody from my country here ordering any of the Korean monitors and I will definitely add info on any additional fees (I hope there won't be any though).


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> After a couple of months of considering the risks, I have just ordered a glossy QNIX from dream-seller to the Czech Republic. Wish me luck! I haven't seen anybody from my country here ordering any of the Korean monitors and I will definitely add info on any additional fees (I hope there won't be any though).


Hey, nice to see someone from CZ who ordered this monitor.
Im planning to order QNIX PLS from eBay too.

Can you please share some ifnormation of the monitor, OCing, price, tax and customs?


----------



## jakubk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> Hey, nice to see someone from CZ who ordered this monitor.
> Im planning to order QNIX PLS from eBay too.
> 
> Can you please share some ifnormation of the monitor, OCing, price, tax and customs?


Hey! Sure, I will post info here as soon as I receive the monitor, hopefully next weekend


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> Hey! Sure, I will post info here as soon as I receive the monitor, hopefully next weekend


Great, thanks.
I read on PCTUNING forum, that someone ordered these QNIX to CZ and had to pay the prize 330USD + 21% taxes + 14% customs= about 500 USD!


----------



## TarAldarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telzum*
> 
> i just changed it back to 60 when i shutdown my pc. sucks to do it manually every time but better than reboot two times to remove the settings completly


So annoying isn't it. Only thing in the setup I notice is that when I run test mode, it doesn't say test mode anywhere on the screen like it said it would.

Anybody any ideas as to why this happens? OCs fine when on, but on reboot is black.


----------



## TarAldarion

Here is my qnix, 0 dead pixels, 0 lightbeed. Perfect monitor.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> Here is my qnix, 0 dead pixels, 0 lightbeed. Perfect monitor.


congrats!


----------



## jakubk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> Great, thanks.
> I read on PCTUNING forum, that someone ordered these QNIX to CZ and had to pay the prize 330USD + 21% taxes + 14% customs= about 500 USD!


Wow that's crazy... I've asked the seller to mark it as a gift and put a lower price on the invoice so hopefully I am not going to pay as much.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> Here is my qnix, 0 dead pixels, 0 lightbeed. Perfect monitor.


I think I might see a little bleed. Have you looked at night yet? I didn't think I had any at first either, meh.


----------



## Lazdaa

Hey Guys!

I'm really considering buying one of these bad boys, this one to be exact: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111063050995?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dbdfaaf3

Although i'm a bit worried about all this Korea shipping, and getting one a good condition etc. also taxes as i live in Denmark.

I'm pretty much between this or the Dell U2412M.

Also have anyone had some sorta big problems with getting the monitor and the condition it's in? I know that there can be a certain amount of backlight bleed, and dead pixels, but how bad is it?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> Here is my qnix, 0 dead pixels, 0 lightbeed. Perfect monitor.


Nice setup.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I think I might see a little bleed. Have you looked at night yet? I didn't think I had any at first either, meh.


That's exactly what i thought at the beginning but after looking at it at night it turns out i do but i don't give a rats (explicit) about it!
It's not noticeable plus only shows in black backgrounds.

2 spots at the top of the monitor, my ASUS IPS had more glow than this monitor..


----------



## jpak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Thanks for the input. I have never owned a glossy or matte monitor or laptop, just CRTs, so I don't really know the difference. What I can tell you is that my pc is in a dark place with no windows and just a lamp that I turn on at night so I can see the keyboard. My wife does turn on the room top lights so. Even so, I believe the safest thing to do will be to order the matte finish version, right? I mean, is the glossy one much more sharper?


Glossy finish has a better look to the monitor in general, so you might even take a glance at it even when the monitor is off and admire it lol. Versus matte, yes glossy has brighter contrast and color intensity because it does not have an anti-glare layer. Is it noticeable? Again depends on what your eyes deem as a beautiful display. I love glossy displays, but to me it is not worth having to constantly focus on my reflections and other reflections every 5-10mins because it annoys the hell out of me. Can't have the best of both worlds, so in this case I have to go with not being annoyed. Seems like you are in an environment where you can change things around easily to suit your glossy monitor in the event you get one. Picture display is definitely beautiful so you can try it out if you want.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> That's exactly what i thought at the beginning but after looking at it at night it turns out i do but i don't give a rats (explicit) about it!
> It's not noticeable plus only shows in black backgrounds.
> 
> 2 spots at the top of the monitor, my ASUS IPS had more glow than this monitor..


Yeah...I would care more about dead pixel(s) even if at a far edge. And like I had said earlier I have lessened it's intensity by raising the display and angling forward too.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah...I would care more about dead pixel(s) even if at a far edge. And like I had said earlier I have lessened it's intensity by raising the display and angling forward too.


Lol that's exactly what i did but i did it already prior to noticing the backlight bleed!


----------



## Lazdaa

Where do you recommend buying the Qnix Qx2710?

The cheapest one i can find right now is the excellentcastle: http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-Matte-Screen-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/261204411997?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cd0ff065d
But i have a 40$ shipping.

There is also lovelypeople: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Samsung27-PLS-Panel-DVI-D-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/161014994936?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item257d3dd7f8
But it says matte in the header and glossy in the description. Also a 30$ shipping.

Green-Sum got this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140961485035?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20d1f590eb But it doesn't say whether it's matte or glossy. No Shipping

Do they got different return politics etc.? Or are some of them known to have bad customer service and such?


----------



## TarAldarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I think I might see a little bleed. Have you looked at night yet? I didn't think I had any at first either, meh.


Just looks that way in the lighting in the photo. Tried at night, it's much better than my LG monitor even. Just perfect black.
Also really glad I got the matte one. Great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Nice setup.


Joking? Other peoples setups make me sad inside








Only good thing is two people get to game beside each other!


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpak*
> 
> Glossy finish has a better look to the monitor in general, so you might even take a glance at it even when the monitor is off and admire it lol. Versus matte, yes glossy has brighter contrast and color intensity because it does not have an anti-glare layer. Is it noticeable? Again depends on what your eyes deem as a beautiful display. I love glossy displays, but to me it is not worth having to constantly focus on my reflections and other reflections every 5-10mins because it annoys the hell out of me. Can't have the best of both worlds, so in this case I have to go with not being annoyed. Seems like you are in an environment where you can change things around easily to suit your glossy monitor in the event you get one. Picture display is definitely beautiful so you can try it out if you want.


Thanks again. But if you can control the environment, is the glossy one really different in terms of picture quality? Or is it better not to take chances?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Where do you recommend buying the Qnix Qx2710?
> 
> The cheapest one i can find right now is the excellentcastle: http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-Matte-Screen-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/261204411997?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cd0ff065d
> But i have a 40$ shipping.
> 
> There is also lovelypeople: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Samsung27-PLS-Panel-DVI-D-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/161014994936?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item257d3dd7f8
> But it says matte in the header and glossy in the description. Also a 30$ shipping.
> 
> Green-Sum got this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140961485035?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20d1f590eb But it doesn't say whether it's matte or glossy. No Shipping
> 
> Do they got different return politics etc.? Or are some of them known to have bad customer service and such?


I am very interested in this also. Have you tried to contact green sum? I asked him if he could ship through EMS (cheaper custom taxes to Portugal, it seems) but he asked 20 extra dollars, making the total 329 dollars.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Thanks again. But if you can control the environment, is the glossy one really different in terms of picture quality? Or is it better not to take chances?


If you are 100% sure you will be able to _always_ control the lightning entirely in whatever environment you use the panel, _and_ you are _willing_ to run the panel at high brightness with low ambient lightning (aka giving yourself a migraine), glossy is the way to go.

Alternatively, if you don't give a rat's behind about reflections and glare, like seemingly most users here at OCN, get a glossy for epeen bolstering.

Otherwise, matte is "safer".


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> If you are 100% sure you will be able to _always_ control the lightning entirely in whatever environment you use the panel, _and_ you are _willing_ to run the panel at high brightness with low ambient lightning (aka giving yourself a migraine), glossy is the way to go.
> 
> Alternatively, if you don't give a rat's behind about reflections and glare, like seemingly most users here at OCN, get a glossy for epeen bolstering.
> 
> Otherwise, matte is "safer".


but the poll in this thread shows that 43 per cent of the users have the glossy one, opposed to the 40 per cent who have the matte.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

On that note, everyone be sure to take the poll if you've bought one!


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> but the poll in this thread shows that 43 per cent of the users have the glossy one, opposed to the 40 per cent who have the matte.


Again, "if you don't give a rat's behind about reflections and glare, like seemingly most users here at OCN, get a glossy for epeen bolstering".


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> but the poll in this thread shows that 43 per cent of the users have the glossy one, opposed to the 40 per cent who have the matte.


The glossy one has been cheaper pretty much the whole time, probably the reason for this. I would also recommend matte by the way.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> but the poll in this thread shows that 43 per cent of the users have the glossy one, opposed to the 40 per cent who have the matte.
> 
> 
> 
> Again, "if you don't give a rat's behind about reflections and glare, like seemingly most users here at OCN, get a glossy for epeen bolstering".
Click to expand...

Epeen? Could be the fact that some of us have light controlled rooms and prefer the superior picture quality of a glossy display


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Where do you recommend buying the Qnix Qx2710?
> 
> The cheapest one i can find right now is the excellentcastle: http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-Matte-Screen-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/261204411997?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cd0ff065d
> But i have a 40$ shipping.
> 
> There is also lovelypeople: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Samsung27-PLS-Panel-DVI-D-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/161014994936?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item257d3dd7f8
> But it says matte in the header and glossy in the description. Also a 30$ shipping.
> 
> Green-Sum got this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140961485035?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20d1f590eb But it doesn't say whether it's matte or glossy. No Shipping
> 
> Do they got different return politics etc.? Or are some of them known to have bad customer service and such?


I´m from Denmark too and just bought the exact same one you listed (first one) from excellentcastle. As far as I can see excellentcastle and bigclothcraft seem to be good vendors. I haven´t heard from the seller yet but will probably tomorrow, I can update you on the the process if you want. I ended up paying 2000 kr including shipping (344 USD).


----------



## Beatwolf

double post


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I´m from Denmark too and just bought the exact same one you listed (first one) from excellentcastle. As far as I can see excellentcastle and bigclothcraft seem to be good vendors. I haven´t heard from the seller yet but will probably tomorrow, I can update you on the the process if you want. I ended up paying 2000 kr including shipping (344 USD).


What about taxes, do you happen to know how much will they be?


----------



## Beatwolf

Not sure.. I think if you get lucky you won´t have to pay much. I´m gonna try to get him mark it as "return from repair", maybe that will slip it by.


----------



## phillyd

Anyone know of any 30" Korean PLS monitors? I've seen a few for around $600, but you can get a U3011 for slightly more.


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Anyone know of any 30" Korean PLS monitors? I've seen a few for around $600, but you can get a U3011 for slightly more.


All the Korean 30" I know of are IPS with CCFL backlighting.


----------



## phillyd

That's a shame.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Anyone know of any 30" Korean PLS monitors? I've seen a few for around $600, but you can get a U3011 for slightly more.


Only mediocre wide gamut 30" CCFL IPS Koreans are available. Samsung does not manufacture 30" PLS panels.


----------



## hellzlegend

This was my first glossy monitor and I personally don't think the reflection is bad.
I have the sun coming in from the side and I barely notice it unless the screen is black.
It's all just preference.
I got glossy since it was cheaper and I only had matte monitors so I wanted to try out glossy.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellzlegend*
> 
> This was my first glossy monitor and I personally don't think the reflection is bad.
> I have the sun coming in from the side and I barely notice it unless the screen is black.
> It's all just preference.
> I got glossy since it was cheaper and I only had matte monitors so I wanted to try out glossy.


So you dont regret buying that one instead of the matte?

EDIT:
- anyone you bougth from green-sum, a couple of question if you please
- He looks to be the cheraper seller at the moment (309$ with freem shipping )and has 99,5% rating, do you recommend buying from him or did you have any trouble?
- Does he sells the matte version or the glossy version? He dosent say it in the description and I wanted the matte one.
- If you ask the guy to put the invoice with a lower price, so we can pay less custom taxes, will the guy do it?

Thanks for your help, guys


----------



## MenacingTuba

Don't worry about buying either version.

The matte version has a very light matte coating, it's the same coating found on the other 2560x1440 PLS panels: it has almost no grain/sparkly/dirty effect.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> So you dont regret buying that one instead of the matte?
> 
> EDIT:
> - anyone you bougth from green-sum, a couple of question if you please
> - He looks to be the cheraper seller at the moment (309$ with freem shipping )and has 99,5% rating, do you recommend buying from him or did you have any trouble?
> - Does he sells the matte version or the glossy version? He dosent say it in the description and I wanted the matte one.
> - If you ask the guy to put the invoice with a lower price, so we can pay less custom taxes, will the guy do it?
> 
> Thanks for your help, guys


I bought from green-sum and he marked my package with 200$ like I told him when checking out.
You can tell him wether you want a mate or glossy version when checking out, I didn't and received a glossy one.
He was pretty fast with my package and everything went good so yeah go with him, I see nothing against.


----------



## phillyd

I'd love to find a cheaper 30" IPS then, but definitely not cheap CCFL ones. Guess I gotta dig for a U3011 cheap on craigslist or settle for a 27"


----------



## batesr33

Thinking about jumping on this deal...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121099795656?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_12504wt_1163

But i just need to sell my U3011 and x2 2007fp monitors first.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'd love to find a cheaper 30" IPS then, but definitely not cheap CCFL ones. Guess I gotta dig for a U3011 cheap on craigslist or settle for a 27"


All matte 30" except for the 3014 have grainy matte coatings vs. the newer 27" models, poor black levels and are wide gamut (google this so you understand what you are buying).


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'd love to find a cheaper 30" IPS then, but definitely not cheap CCFL ones. Guess I gotta dig for a U3011 cheap on craigslist or settle for a 27"
> 
> 
> 
> All matte 30" except for the 3014 have grainy matte coatings vs. the newer 27" models, poor black levels and are wide gamut (google this so you understand what you are buying).
Click to expand...

hmm. I've heard nothing but good things about the Ultrasharp series, but I'll look into it.


----------



## crimelol

Just pulled the trigger on a matte x-star. Purchased it from bigclothcraft for $290.

Here's to hoping for a problem free monitor!


----------



## chughes65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batesr33*
> 
> Thinking about jumping on this deal...
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121099795656?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_12504wt_1163
> 
> But i just need to sell my U3011 and x2 2007fp monitors first.


Please do! Haha that is brutal... Wish I had the money for it!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So how so these PLS compare to catleap, monoprice, and ultra sharp?

Honesty. Which is better for how much.


----------



## d3vour3r

got mine OC'd to 96hz, im pretty happy. had funny lines at 120hz


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So how so these PLS compare to catleap, monoprice, and ultra sharp?
> 
> Honesty. Which is better for how much.


Ultra sharp: better in terms of pixel and black light bleed support. costs twice has much, has warranty.

Catleap is more of a fair of a comparison with the QNIX. QNIX are less expensive than a non-overclocking catleap, and overclocking catleaps cost twice (or more) as much than a QNIX.
Image quality: The same or better since catleap is IPS panel, and the qnix is PLS panel.

Monoprice is an IPS panel inside of the same casing as the QNIX but with a different logo. Also costs more, has a somewhat year warranty. I say somewhat, because they make you pay for return shipping to exchange for back light bleed or excessive dead pixels.

conclusion: Qnix has the best price/performance in the korean 27" 1440P market at the moment due to its OC-ability, cheap price, and PLS screen.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I th0ught the Catleaps were S-IPS, n0t just IPS panels.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I th0ught the Catleaps were S-IPS, n0t just IPS panels.


Along with all (well, _most_) other modern IPS panels. PLS is still generally "better".


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> All matte 30" except for the 3014 have grainy matte coatings vs. the newer 27" models, poor black levels and are wide gamut (google this so you understand what you are buying).


Nothing wrong with wide gamut man.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No, nothing "wrong"...but only professionals who need the increased color space really can benefit from such.


----------



## Paps.pt

I was going to order the monitor from ebay but offer from "Green-Sum" just ended yesterday...he has a good seller score and was the cheapest matte version option ($309 with shipping). Not only that, he said he would ship me by EMS (I will pay less custom taxes here in Portugal) and with a lower mark value so it´s a real bummer. Anyone can point me to a good alternative to this offer or should I just wait because he will put another offer on ebay?

Cheers


----------



## jayhay

Just got my qnix matte from excellent castle. No dead pixels or backlight bleed. Oc'd to 103 and sitting happy. No duties were due, as the US and s. Korea have a trade agreement. No one in the US should be paying customs on these.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I was going to order the monitor from ebay but offer from "Green-Sum" just ended yesterday...he has a good seller score and was the cheapest matte version option ($309 with shipping). Not only that, he said he would ship me by EMS (I will pay less custom taxes here in Portugal) and with a lower mark value so it´s a real bummer. Anyone can point me to a good alternative to this offer or should I just wait because he will put another offer on ebay?


Well I can tell you that Hulustar is very responsive so you could ask him about EMS and he asks you how much to declare it as right off the bat. And as it still says less than 100 sold I am pretty sure his "promo" still active which is essentially Pixel Perfect for $317 (0-2 allowed, most are 5).

And seems the vast majority of his have had no dead pixels as yet incl. mine (that's not to insinuate other sellers have worse ones ).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130868312541?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well I can tell you that Hulustar is very responsive so you could ask him about EMS those and he ask how much to declare it as right off the bat. And as it still says less than 100 sold I am pretty sure his "promo" still active which is essentially Pixel Perfect for $317 (0-2 allowed, most are 5).
> 
> And seems the vast majority of his have had no dead pixels as yet incl. mine (that's not to insinuate other sellers have worse ones ).
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/130868312541?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Thanks but his offer is 38 bucks more expensive than the onde I talked about, I was hopping to get a similar price









EDIT: Also, I just noticed that he dosent allow the customer to choose the shipping company, it´s them that choose it.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I´m from Denmark too and just bought the exact same one you listed (first one) from excellentcastle. As far as I can see excellentcastle and bigclothcraft seem to be good vendors. I haven´t heard from the seller yet but will probably tomorrow, I can update you on the the process if you want. I ended up paying 2000 kr including shipping (344 USD).


I Contacted Green-Sum and he said that i had to order a different one in order to get a Matte display, which was 40$ more expensive.

I'm also considering the excellentcastle. And please keep me updated







also about how taxes, customs and stuff goes.

If marked with the "return from repair" would it possibly slip through? I've also heard some marking with gifts or something like that, not sure if it worked tho...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

The one you "talked about" was $309, as far as I can tell. You are seeing one for only $279?


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> The one you "talked about" was $309, as far as I can tell. You are seeing one for only $279?


It was 309 but he said he would charge 20 bucks to ship by EMS to Portugal


----------



## jakubk

Just to let you guys know, yesterday I ordered a QNIX from dream-seller and sent him an e-mail saying that I would like to have the monitor shipped with Fedex (I have seen a guy here who didn't have to pay taxes with Fedex) and he told me that he can't undervalue the parcel with Fedex, but he could do so if he sent it via EMS, but shipping via EMS would be $25 more expensive. In the end I've to decided to try my luck with Fedex and not undervaluing the parcel, rather than paying more for the shipping. Let's see if I'm lucky.


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicmew*
> 
> Can you link the 286 deal? Lowest I see is 300.


Looks like they raised the price on the x--star to $300 now.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So the Catleap 2Bs, for example, don't exhibit the darkening at higher Hz? Is this something to do with PLS tech perhaps?


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dir_d*
> 
> My x-star glossy is steady at 110hz. At 120 there are lines but I'm gonna try some different configuration to try to get 120 stable.


Thanks for posting. ill be getting my x start today.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Any of you with scan lines overclocked with AB? It's kind of a long shot but using it on my machine causes lines most of the time (as soon as the GPU OC is "applied"). CCC does not do this (nor does just upping voltage with AB).


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Hi guys, I will look like a noob but, how to I oc? i've patched my graphic card, enable test mode, restart, then make a ''profile'' in CRU with copy/paste and putting 120 hz, restart, then I open CCC, goes to deskptop properties, and the only refresh rate available is 60 hz, can you help me? thanks


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Sounds like something is not quite right in CRU? Is the 120Hz one on top in "Detailed Resolutions"? Also I found I was already at the Hz set in CRU upon reboot; did not have to manually set in CCC. Was already at the higher Hz.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Sounds like something is not quite right in CRU? Is the 120Hz one on top in "Detailed Resolutions"? Also I found I was already at the Hz set in CRU upon reboot; did not have to manually set in CCC. Was already at the higher Hz.


No it was not on top, I will try that, thanks


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah top is the default/active one.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah top is the default/active one.


It worked







thank you, and 120 hz seems to be fine for me, I will try playing some game. I had to active it in CCC before


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Kick ass. Did you notice it got darker?


----------



## Methadras

Qnix and X-Star are identical right? That's what I'm assuming.


----------



## exvarkin

My qnix just came in from hulustar, its amazing. no dead pixels, only some backlight bleed in lower right.. but didn't notice it until checked on a black screen and it not visible when i lower the backlight.
so far vary happy.

by the way i had a $31.55 duty fee to Canada via DHL


----------



## Methadras

Well, just pulled the trigger on a pair of Qnix's. Hopefully they will be here by the end of the week.









I'll probably crack them open, do the tape trick. Look at the board and make sure it's all solid, take the stand off and mount them on Ergotrons instead. I really wanted the 30", but for the price of one, I could be two 27's. That was simply more tempting, plus the other nice little things you can do with these. I'll let you guys know how it goes and add to the already growing reviews here.

By the way, I paid $300 each for these monitors, but I can see they are already climbing in price. if you are going to get them, do it now.


----------



## godvirus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> Well, just pulled the trigger on a pair of Qnix's. Hopefully they will be here by the end of the week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> By the way, I paid $300 each for these monitors, but I can see they are already climbing in price. if you are going to get them, do it now.


I'm thinking of doing the same (2 qnix on ergotrons). Which seller did you go with?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I might buy 3 of these .

Edit: My post wont show.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So has anyone figured out which one is better yet?


----------



## TesseractOrion

Qnix: I have to say, the 'darkness' effect @ 120hz is very noticeable ingame compared with the Catleap 2b... using the brightness buttons doesn't seem to make much difference tbh


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I was wondering if this is due to PLS technology or what?


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Any of you with scan lines overclocked with AB? It's kind of a long shot but using it on my machine causes lines most of the time (as soon as the GPU OC is "applied"). CCC does not do this (nor does just upping voltage with AB).


I'm


----------



## jdmathew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joarangoe*
> 
> Is this what you are looking for?


Yes!! The only problem is that tab is not "click-able". It is grayed out and I cannot access the positioning controls. Why is this?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So has anyone figured out which one is better yet?


No direct comparison review has been made yet between the QNIX and the catleap, apple cinema display, etc.. Speculations are that they are just as good or better as the catleaps, as suggested here: http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/53718_5/Korejskij_demping_v_nishe_PLS_reshenij._Obzor_i_testirovanie_monitora_QNIX_QX2710.html#19

Things we do know: They are the most inexpensive 27" 1440P monitor at the moment. They have a high quality display. They have varrying magnitudes of ability to OC. Their price has been rising.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmathew*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *joarangoe*
> 
> Is this what you are looking for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes!! The only problem is that tab is not "click-able". It is grayed out and I cannot access the positioning controls. Why is this?
Click to expand...

You are having issues with the screen image being cut off, right? How I found that it was the monitor casing which was cutting off the image was I picked up my screen and turned it upside-down while on. The screen internally shifted downwards and I was able to see the lines of the screen that were previously cut off. Panel play is the worst


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godvirus*
> 
> I'm thinking of doing the same (2 qnix on ergotrons). Which seller did you go with?


I went with excellentcastle.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> No direct comparison review has been made yet between the QNIX and the catleap, apple cinema display, etc.. Speculations are that they are just as good or better as the catleaps, as suggested here: http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/53718_5/Korejskij_demping_v_nishe_PLS_reshenij._Obzor_i_testirovanie_monitora_QNIX_QX2710.html#19
> 
> Things we do know: They are the most inexpensive 27" 1440P monitor at the moment. They have a high quality display. They have varrying magnitudes of ability to OC. Their price has been rising.


I meant between the QNIX and X-Star or whatever.


----------



## Beatwolf

There also are no direct comparisons between the Qnix and X-Star. It seems some think the Qnix overclocks better, but its speculation.


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> There also are no direct comparisons between the Qnix and X-Star. It seems some think the Qnix overclocks better, but its speculation.


I got an X star for $286 and it came with no dead pixels that i can tell. Will try to see if i can find BLB but straight out of the box, it looks great. I am almost certain these monitors are the same but ill find out when i try to OC later tonight for the real test. I think because this started with thw qnix, everyone just went with that one and it caught on. So far, im already happy with the purchase. Purchased from bigclothcraft. Took 5 days to deliver to So Cal.


----------



## Paps.pt

I just ordered from Green-Sum, I hope he sticks with what he promised and sends me a matte version (the add dosent say which one is it) by normal EMS shipping company and marks it with 200$.









http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140961485035?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20d1f590eb

Now, a couple of questions for the guys who already did it:

- Is the overclocking procedure really worth it?
- Are the benefits noticeable?
- What about the downsides, are there any?

Cheers


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well this is somewhat subjective first of all as some perceive the difference better than others. I can't really tell a whole lot of difference so far in terms of "smoothness" or what have you tbh but I think I do already notice much less eye strain after gaming for a long time. Also it depends on GPU and what you play as ideally you want your GPU to be outputting fps numbers not lower than the Hz value for the best experience.

No _known_ downsides. All we really have to go on though is overclocked Catleaps and such that are still humming along after over a year.


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well this is somewhat subjective first of all as some perceive the difference better than others. I can't really tell a whole lot of difference so far in terms of "smoothness" or what have you tbh but I think I do already notice much less eye strain after gaming for a long time. Also it depends on GPU and what you play as ideally you want your GPU to be outputting fps numbers not lower than the Hz value for the best experience.
> 
> No _known_ downsides. All we really have to go on though is overclocked Catleaps and such that are still humming along after over a year.


I dont know about anyone else but the simple increase to 75hz like the crt days which will stop any eye strain i get currently with my current 60hz monitor is priceless. Anything higher is just a bonus.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

If I had the money or resources I'd do a comparison of my catleap to the x-star and qnix. But summer is here and I have to find a summer job for now.









Unless I can find a deal where a seller will sell me a x-star and a qnix for 300 each. If I can get one of them to agree to that then I'll do it.


----------



## lyang238

Just got my Matte Qnix QX2710 today from Hulustar and its Awesome. Have OC profiles set to 60/96/120 all working well with zero dead pixels that I could find in 15 mins of looking. Blacklight bleeding is ver minor. Overall super awesome deal for 317.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Linked below is a profile made with a ColorMunki Display calibrator at 96Hz if anyone would care to try it. Set to LED backlight (default is CCFL). Brightness was 12 clicks from bottom when I started and it had me put it down 2 clicks.

http://sdrv.ms/12ci0Xq


----------



## RagingAzn628

Just got my monitor today!!! How do I test it for dead pixels?


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Open up a full white image, and look for black dots. That's all there is to it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingAzn628*
> 
> Just got my monitor today!!! How do I test it for dead pixels?


Under FAQ in the OP, there is a website that lets you full screen different colors to check for dead pixels and back light bleed. check it out


----------



## Beatwolf

For which monitor?

Also, lets say i overclock mine to 90 or something around that, and i´m playing a game but get 70 fps or something, would that be an issue or make for a poorer experience?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well that's the type of situation that is supposed to cause screen tearing but I am really not seeing any as yet.


----------



## theyoungone10

Ordered my non pixel-perfect Matte QNIX from green-sum Thursday and received it today. Nearly perfect display with only one dead pixel on the lower right hand corner near the Windows clock and no noticeable back light bleed. Extremely happy with the $309.90 spent. I also purchased a 3 year square trade warranty for $49.99 to ease my worries.

Now I believe I overlooked to 110hz with no problems using a Monoprice 24awg 6 foot cable but I am not sure how to verify this clock. I do notice that the screen is dimmer but that is the only thing. Will try higher clocks later this week.

I think my gtx 660ti is a little strained however driving this and my 27" Visio off hdmi. What cards are other people running?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Should tell you somewhere in display properties (NV control panel) what Hz you are at.


----------



## theyoungone10

Well Nvidia Control Panel says 110hz. I seem to have a knack with getting lucky with things like this. Will try to go higher soon but my 660ti will struggle


----------



## sammysamsam

I got my x-star and this thing is gorgeous. Oc'd to 96hz no problem. Oc'd to 120hz and it takes but i get a little banding off and on. I have a msi 7950 with only 1 dvi port. Does it matter if i use a mini dp port? Also i dont notice the monitor being dimmer when oc'd. Does that matter?

EDIT: Just tried to apply my OC to my gpu and it limits me to 1100mhz and 1575mhz. I used to be able to oc to 1200core, 1600ram. I am pixel patched and in test mode. What happened?


----------



## RagingAzn628

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NO DEAD PIXELS!

NO BLEEDS I DONT THINK!

120HZ OCD!!!

Sorry for caps I'm so excited haha

If you want to OC to 120 use this:

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

I tried 120 without the patcher and it did not work. Worked instantly after installation!!!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theyoungone10*
> 
> Well Nvidia Control Panel says 110hz. I seem to have a knack with getting lucky with things like this. Will try to go higher soon but my 660ti will struggle


Well they pretty much all can do 100+ so far though I'd have bought one even if they couldn't over a Catleap or Shimian which are closer to $400 now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingAzn628*
> 
> WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> NO DEAD PIXELS!
> 
> NO BLEEDS I DONT THINK!
> 
> 120HZ OCD!!!
> 
> Sorry for caps I'm so excited haha
> 
> If you want to OC to 120 use this:
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> I tried 120 without the patcher and it did not work. Worked instantly after installation!!!


Now fix the crappy color out of the box!


----------



## Vulpix

Does anyone know what it means if I overclock to 120hz and I get flickering only in game, but not on my windows desktop? I'm running SLI right now @ 110hz. Already used the pixel patcher.


----------



## jdmathew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> You are having issues with the screen image being cut off, right? How I found that it was the monitor casing which was cutting off the image was I picked up my screen and turned it upside-down while on. The screen internally shifted downwards and I was able to see the lines of the screen that were previously cut off. Panel play is the worst


Yes. I am trying to avoid a dis-assembly of the monitor. I would think I could at least have the capacity to adjust screen position, at least to give it a try. I'll probably have to just reset the panel/bezel, but I'd sure like to know why screen positioning is not available. Is it a monitor issue, or does control panel only allow adjusting with TV/VGA as the NVIDIA manual seems to convey?


----------



## Paps.pt

I am beginning to worry, I ordered from Green-Sum, sent him a message asking him to send it through EMS (less taxes that way)like he suggested but they don't answer back, even though they already gave me the eBay feedback.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> Does anyone know what it means if I overclock to 120hz and I get flickering only in game, but not on my windows desktop? I'm running SLI right now @ 110hz. Already used the pixel patcher.


It means your GPU is artifacting. Try enabled vysnc to see if that helps; if not OC your GPU higher.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sammysamsam*
> 
> I got my x-star and this thing is gorgeous. Oc'd to 96hz no problem. Oc'd to 120hz and it takes but i get a little banding off and on. I have a msi 7950 with only 1 dvi port. Does it matter if i use a mini dp port? Also i dont notice the monitor being dimmer when oc'd. Does that matter?
> 
> EDIT: Just tried to apply my OC to my gpu and it limits me to 1100mhz and 1575mhz. I used to be able to oc to 1200core, 1600ram. I am pixel patched and in test mode. What happened?


Interesting. What programs have your used to enable you to OC the gpu that high?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmathew*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> You are having issues with the screen image being cut off, right? How I found that it was the monitor casing which was cutting off the image was I picked up my screen and turned it upside-down while on. The screen internally shifted downwards and I was able to see the lines of the screen that were previously cut off. Panel play is the worst
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. I am trying to avoid a dis-assembly of the monitor. I would think I could at least have the capacity to adjust screen position, at least to give it a try. I'll probably have to just reset the panel/bezel, but I'd sure like to know why screen positioning is not available. Is it a monitor issue, or does control panel only allow adjusting with TV/VGA as the NVIDIA manual seems to convey?
Click to expand...

Trying to adjust the screen cut-off problem via nvidia image adjustment is suggesting that there are extra lines on the screen that aren't used. I don't think that is the case


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> It means your GPU is artifacting. Try enabled vysnc to see if that helps; if not OC your GPU higher.


I understand the vsync part, but I don't really get the overclocking of the GPU. Why overclock the GPU? The screen flickering doesn't seem to be performance related...


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Flickering is usually a sign of artifacting. I currently have flickering as well because my OC isn't matching my game.







{Chivalry} Wish I could just get it to work!!


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Flickering is usually a sign of artifacting. I currently have flickering as well because my OC isn't matching my game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> {Chivalry} Wish I could just get it to work!!


I'm getting confused now... My GPUs are not overclocked, and they do not show any flickering when overclocked to 110hz. So what does overclocking have to do with the flickering?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

You said it happens when you play games correct? You also said it happens when you overclock the monitor correct? Or do I have that backwards?

Oh and I got my pc stable. Increased the voltage.


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> You said it happens when you play games correct? You also said it happens when you overclock the monitor correct? Or do I have that backwards?
> 
> Oh and I got my pc stable. Increased the voltage.


I get the flickering only if I overclock my monitor to 120hz while playing games, but it does not flicker when I am on the windows desktop. At 110hz, there is no more flickering in games. Does that make sense now?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Yes it does. Sounds like the added stress between 110-120 crosses the threshold. I don't have a solution for you but an explanation I can provide.


----------



## jakubk

"Your item is marked as shipped and tracking information is available."

Whohoooo, excited!


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Yes it does. Sounds like the added stress between 110-120 crosses the threshold. I don't have a solution for you but an explanation I can provide.


Ah well, was wondering if I can push it just a bit further. I'll settle with 110hz.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> "Your item is marked as shipped and tracking information is available."
> 
> Whohoooo, excited!


Mine too, and I can't wait to try 100hz+ oc'ing on this!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Jealous. I'm stuck with my catleap for now. Haha.


----------



## Zero4549

Man I can't wait to get my 680 Lightning back from MSI RMA. After about two weeks of running at 96hz, even fps dips down into the mid 70s seem supertastic and ugly. Can't even imagine playing on a 60hz panel again. Can't wait to be able to push 130+hz again, and consistently have at least 90+fps... and perhaps not have to play my games all at minimum settings


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Jealous. I'm stuck with my catleap for now. Haha.


I thought the Catleap overclocked better than this one


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I thought the Catleap overclocked better than this one


Find me a Catleap that can do 130hz+ with no issues. There are at least two known x-stars and at least one qnix that can, as reported by users in this thread.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Only the 2B panels. Mine just happens to be a 2C.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Find me a Catleap that can do 130hz+ with no issues. There are at least two known x-stars and at least one qnix that can, as reported by users in this thread.


Yeah but is it really worth it to overclock it that high? Are the gains noticeable? I´m asking because mine hasent arrived yet so I dont know if the real world change in refresh rate is the like it is with my CRT: I indeed see a difference when I change from 60Hz to 100Hz. But because I never really owned a LCD I dont know if it works the same way.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Yeah but is it really worth it to overclock it that high? Are the gains noticeable? I´m asking because mine hasent arrived yet so I dont know if the real world change in refresh rate is the like it is with my CRT: I indeed see a difference when I change from 60Hz to 100Hz. But because I never really owned a LCD I dont know if it works the same way.


Short answer: Yes.


----------



## MrGreenankle

I got artifacts on my X-star at 120hz (running 96hz atm), will try to disable afterburner overclocks and see if it makes any difference once I get home.


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> I got artifacts on my X-star at 120hz (running 96hz atm), will try to disable afterburner overclocks and see if it makes any difference once I get home.


I had scan lines at 120hz with another cable ,try different cables and they don't have to be expensive 1s ,as im using the 1 that the monitor came with and have no scan lines.

I have mine at 121hz (no scan lines or corruption) so I can limit my frames to 1 under refresh (120hz) while vsynced ingame I get almost no lag and smooth as hell in bo2 like that:thumb:


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> I had scan lines at 120hz with another cable ,try different cables and they don't have to be expensive 1s ,as im using the 1 that the monitor came with and have no scan lines.
> 
> I have mine at 121hz (no scan lines or corruption) so I can limit my frames to 1 under refresh (120hz) while vsynced ingame I get almost no lag and smooth as hell in bo2 like that:thumb:


Wait what, could you explain why having 121hz is beneficial?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> Wait what, could you explain why having 121hz is beneficial?


so he can use a fps limiter to run at _effectively_120hz with minimal screen tearing, without the performance hit and input lag of using vsync.

Except... that's not really how it works... but don't tell him that


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> so he can use a fps limiter to run at _effectively_120hz with minimal screen tearing, without the performance hit and input lag of using vsync.
> 
> Except... that's not really how it works... but don't tell him that


I can see you have some knowledge on the subject. So, in your opinion, for someone who can OC the monitor to say 96Hz or 100Hz, which settings is better for minimal tearing and stuff?

Cheers


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Which monitor are people most effectively hitting 100+ fps?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I can see you have some knowledge on the subject. So, in your opinion, for someone who can OC the monitor to say 96Hz or 100Hz, which settings is better for minimal tearing and stuff?
> 
> Cheers


If you're really sensitive to tearing, stuttering, low refresh rates, etc (I get massive migraines personally), you're pretty much stuck with vsync. There are a few game engines with built in limiters that will work, but universally not so much.

If you just want to _reduce_ tearing without needing to completely eliminate it, a limiter set a few fps below your refresh rate can give you that effect, without introducing nearly as much of a latency or frame rate hit. I would _not_ suggest only limiting it by 1 frame though - all the global frame limiters I've come across aren't perfectly steady, and the rate your select is a target rather than a rule. 3-5 frames below the refresh rate usually works well.

As for 96 vs 100 - if you're just gaming, 100 will give you the potential for slightly more fluidity, assuming your GPU can push all 100 frames.

Unless we start talking about shoddy ports with hard coded fps, in which case neither one is likely a good option (I say _likely_ because these ports are _usually_ set to multiples of 30. There's no rule about that though, so if for some bizarre reason it's set to 24, 96hz would actually work nicely).

Now, if you want a good global rate for your monitor, 96 is "better" than 100, because the vast majority of content is either going to run at 24fps (videos) or will run at your native refresh rate (anything rendered in real time, such as games). losing up to 4fps in gaming isn't a big deal, and having a more fluid video experience more than makes up for it (IMO).

120hz is what you _really_ want though. It divides cleanly into 24, 30, and 60, thus giving you the ability for stutter and tear free playback of just about everything you are likely to encounter. 120 is also a nice improvement over 100 or 96 in terms of fluidity in games, if you have the GPU power to make use of it.

Another thing to note - the faster your refresh, the _less noticeable_ tearing becomes. It'll still be there if you aren't using vsync - in fact you will actually get more tears - but the shift between frames will be smaller, and thus less visible. If you aren't too sensitive to tearing (sensitive in terms of headaches, I assume _everyone_ who isn't legally blind can _see_ them), running at the highest possible refresh rate with no vsync and no frame limiter is the way to go in games where you can push the framerate to or beyond the refresh rate (assuming you have a reasonably high refresh rate to begin with of course). This doesn't really apply to movies though, so users interested in this for gaming might want to make a second 96hz or 72hz profile for movies.


----------



## fullban

when I play bf3 at 121hz I had the performance graph open while testing different capping of fps in msi afterburner and 120hz had the least spikes ,so could be different for everyone but that is the sweet spot on mine and I can see a big difference in smoothness .


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> If you're really sensitive to tearing, stuttering, low refresh rates, etc (I get massive migraines personally), you're pretty much stuck with vsync. There are a few game engines with built in limiters that will work, but universally not so much.
> 
> If you just want to _reduce_ tearing without needing to completely eliminate it, a limiter set a few fps below your refresh rate can give you that effect, without introducing nearly as much of a latency or frame rate hit. I would _not_ suggest only limiting it by 1 frame though - all the global frame limiters I've come across aren't perfectly steady, and the rate your select is a target rather than a rule. 3-5 frames below the refresh rate usually works well.
> 
> As for 96 vs 100 - if you're just gaming, 100 will give you the potential for slightly more fluidity, assuming your GPU can push all 100 frames.
> 
> Unless we start talking about shoddy ports with hard coded fps, in which case neither one is likely a good option (I say _likely_ because these ports are _usually_ set to multiples of 30. There's no rule about that though, so if for some bizarre reason it's set to 24, 96hz would actually work nicely).
> 
> Now, if you want a good global rate for your monitor, 96 is "better" than 100, because the vast majority of content is either going to run at 24fps (videos) or will run at your native refresh rate (anything rendered in real time, such as games). losing up to 4fps in gaming isn't a big deal, and having a more fluid video experience more than makes up for it (IMO).
> 
> 120hz is what you _really_ want though. It divides cleanly into 24, 30, and 60, thus giving you the ability for stutter and tear free playback of just about everything you are likely to encounter. 120 is also a nice improvement over 100 or 96 in terms of fluidity in games, if you have the GPU power to make use of it.
> 
> Another thing to note - the faster your refresh, the _less noticeable_ tearing becomes. It'll still be there if you aren't using vsync - in fact you will actually get more tears - but the shift between frames will be smaller, and thus less visible. If you aren't too sensitive to tearing (sensitive in terms of headaches, I assume _everyone_ who isn't legally blind can _see_ them), running at the highest possible refresh rate with no vsync and no frame limiter is the way to go in games where you can push the framerate to or beyond the refresh rate (assuming you have a reasonably high refresh rate to begin with of course). This doesn't really apply to movies though, so users interested in this for gaming might want to make a second 96hz or 72hz profile for movies.


Thank you for that insighfull info about tearing and refresh rates. I will use the Qnix qx2710 that I ordered mostly form gaming since I have a 720p 120Mhz projector for movies. I hope the OC reaches 100Hz.
My only doubt at the moment is regarding the "frame cap" within games. I noticed Crysis 3 had it but didnt understand what it´s for, would it be too much if you could explain me the implications?

Thanks


----------



## jdmathew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Trying to adjust the screen cut-off problem via nvidia image adjustment is suggesting that there are extra lines on the screen that aren't used. I don't think that is the case


I understand that positioning the image will not necessarily fix this specific offset panel-in-bezel problem, and I know I can fix this specific problem by moving the panel within the bezel.

Regardless, I should STILL have the option of screen positioning within NVIDIA Control Panel. My frustration is that I don't have this capability, and I STILL won't be able to, even after I fix the panel-in-bezel alignment. Why does NVIDIA Control Panel not offer me the positioning controls???


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Thank you for that insighfull info about tearing and refresh rates. I will use the Qnix qx2710 that I ordered mostly form gaming since I have a 720p 120Mhz projector for movies. I hope the OC reaches 100Hz.
> My only doubt at the moment is regarding the "frame cap" within games. I noticed Crysis 3 had it but didnt understand what it´s for, would it be too much if you could explain me the implications?
> 
> Thanks


Reread his second paragraph.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmathew*
> 
> I understand that positioning the image will not necessarily fix this specific offset panel-in-bezel problem, and I know I can fix this specific problem by moving the panel within the bezel.
> 
> Regardless, I should STILL have the option of screen positioning within NVIDIA Control Panel. My frustration is that I don't have this capability, and I STILL won't be able to, even after I fix the panel-in-bezel alignment. Why does NVIDIA Control Panel not offer me the positioning controls???


Wierd...I thought it was the other way around and AMD drivers did not have this capability.


----------



## jdmathew

http://s579.photobucket.com/user/steelmilkjug/media/nvidiaCP.jpg.html

According to table 3.1 of the latest NVIDIA Control Panel User's Manual (~page 20 as seen in this image), *only TVs and VGA displays have the option of screen position*.

Is this true, or has anyone been able to use NVIDIA Control Panel to adjust screen position on these Korean monitors? (Note, not scaling or aspect ratio, but POSITION). Thanks!


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Reread his second paragraph.


I did but I dont undestand this part: "3-5 frames below the refresh rate usually works well." If I remember correctly I had the option to put 1, 2 or 3 frames. 3 frames below my refresh rate, for instance, would mean 97 frames (100-3=97) and I dont have that option there.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

You mean in some FPS limiter app? Which one?


----------



## hakkafusion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theyoungone10*
> 
> Ordered my non pixel-perfect Matte QNIX from green-sum Thursday and received it today. Nearly perfect display with only one dead pixel on the lower right hand corner near the Windows clock and no noticeable back light bleed. Extremely happy with the $309.90 spent. I also purchased a 3 year square trade warranty for $49.99 to ease my worries.
> 
> Now I believe I overlooked to 110hz with no problems using a Monoprice 24awg 6 foot cable but I am not sure how to verify this clock. I do notice that the screen is dimmer but that is the only thing. Will try higher clocks later this week.
> 
> I think my gtx 660ti is a little strained however driving this and my 27" Visio off hdmi. What cards are other people running?


If you can't tell the difference betweenn 110hz vs 60hz, then you probably don't need it.
With that said, easiest way to verify is by closing the control panel, then reopen it. If what ever you selected before you closed is still selected after you reopen it, then we can be pretty certain it's running at that frequency.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I am beginning to worry, I ordered from Green-Sum, sent him a message asking him to send it through EMS (less taxes that way)like he suggested but they don't answer back, even though they already gave me the eBay feedback.


Give it time. He is probably getting flooded with orders. Takes a day or two to reply.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> I'm getting confused now... My GPUs are not overclocked, and they do not show any flickering when overclocked to 110hz. So what does overclocking have to do with the flickering?


Are you getting confused with overclocking the GPU and overclocking the monitor? The two are different.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> I get the flickering only if I overclock my monitor to 120hz while playing games, but it does not flicker when I am on the windows desktop. At 110hz, there is no more flickering in games. Does that make sense now?


Looks like your monitor(s) only go to 110 hz overclock. That's not bad.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You mean in some FPS limiter app? Which one?


Crysis 3 in game settings, for instance.


----------



## Paps.pt

EDIT: Damm phone. double post, sorry


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> If you're really sensitive to tearing, stuttering, low refresh rates, etc (I get massive migraines personally), you're pretty much stuck with vsync. There are a few game engines with built in limiters that will work, but universally not so much.
> 
> If you just want to _reduce_ tearing without needing to completely eliminate it, a limiter set a few fps below your refresh rate can give you that effect, without introducing nearly as much of a latency or frame rate hit. I would _not_ suggest only limiting it by 1 frame though - all the global frame limiters I've come across aren't perfectly steady, and the rate your select is a target rather than a rule. 3-5 frames below the refresh rate usually works well.
> 
> As for 96 vs 100 - if you're just gaming, 100 will give you the potential for slightly more fluidity, assuming your GPU can push all 100 frames.
> 
> Unless we start talking about shoddy ports with hard coded fps, in which case neither one is likely a good option (I say _likely_ because these ports are _usually_ set to multiples of 30. There's no rule about that though, so if for some bizarre reason it's set to 24, 96hz would actually work nicely).
> 
> Now, if you want a good global rate for your monitor, 96 is "better" than 100, because the vast majority of content is either going to run at 24fps (videos) or will run at your native refresh rate (anything rendered in real time, such as games). losing up to 4fps in gaming isn't a big deal, and having a more fluid video experience more than makes up for it (IMO).
> 
> 120hz is what you _really_ want though. It divides cleanly into 24, 30, and 60, thus giving you the ability for stutter and tear free playback of just about everything you are likely to encounter. 120 is also a nice improvement over 100 or 96 in terms of fluidity in games, if you have the GPU power to make use of it.
> 
> Another thing to note - the faster your refresh, the _less noticeable_ tearing becomes. It'll still be there if you aren't using vsync - in fact you will actually get more tears - but the shift between frames will be smaller, and thus less visible. If you aren't too sensitive to tearing (sensitive in terms of headaches, I assume _everyone_ who isn't legally blind can _see_ them), running at the highest possible refresh rate with no vsync and no frame limiter is the way to go in games where you can push the framerate to or beyond the refresh rate (assuming you have a reasonably high refresh rate to begin with of course). This doesn't really apply to movies though, so users interested in this for gaming might want to make a second 96hz or 72hz profile for movies.


Which is best to play games at? 96 hz / 100 hz / 105 hz ? (My highest i can go is 105 hz haha







. )


----------



## wrigleyvillain

There is no cut-and-dried answer to that. See what works best for your eyes and your GPU and what you play. More frames (higher Hz) is always generally "better" but there are other subjective factors in the equation.


----------



## acm25

Just received my matte X-star DP2710 from hulustar. This monitor is great! No dead pixels from what I can tell, but some backlight bleed. OC's to 120Hz with no artifacts using the LCD reduced setting on my GTX 670.

What color profile are people using @ 120Hz to fix the dim/off colors? I noticed there's only one working link to a 120Hz ICC file in the OP. Links to cor35vet profiles are broken.


----------



## jdmathew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acm25*
> 
> Just received my matte X-star DP2710 from hulustar. This monitor is great! No dead pixels from what I can tell, but some backlight bleed. OC's to 120Hz with no artifacts using the LCD reduced setting on my GTX 670.
> 
> What color profile are people using @ 120Hz to fix the dim/off colors? I noticed there's only one working link to a 120Hz ICC file in the OP. Links to cor35vet profiles are broken.


I increased Brightness, Contrast, Gamma, and Digital Vibrance all in slightly higher-than-default amounts to offset the 120hz effects. Battlefield 3 has some interesting lighting (the sun is REALLY Bright and dark rooms are VERY dark). I think I am going to lower contrast to counteract this extreme difference between bright/dark areas in the game.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acm25*
> 
> Just received my matte X-star DP2710 from hulustar. This monitor is great! No dead pixels from what I can tell, but some backlight bleed. OC's to 120Hz with no artifacts using the LCD reduced setting on my GTX 670.
> 
> What color profile are people using @ 120Hz to fix the dim/off colors? I noticed there's only one working link to a 120Hz ICC file in the OP. Links to cor35vet profiles are broken.


There you go: http://botox.ath.cx/files/icc/

Brightness is 12 clicks up from lowest.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So hey guys, I need a favor. I'm feinding for one of these monitors now but can yall post the model you got and the pc achieved? I want to make a table and compare them before I buy. Thanks.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> There you go: http://botox.ath.cx/files/icc/
> 
> Brightness is 12 clicks up from lowest.


this profile is especially for 120hz matte version?


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> "Your item is marked as shipped and tracking information is available."
> 
> Whohoooo, excited!


Don´t get too excited took almost 48hours before mine showed anything at all.


----------



## hakkafusion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So hey guys, I need a favor. I'm feinding for one of these monitors now but can yall post the model you got and the pc achieved? I want to make a table and compare them before I buy. Thanks.


Try OP


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> this profile is especially for 120hz matte version?


I've made this with my glossy monitor running at 120Hz.
Some people use it with mate panels and say that it fits perfect, you have to try out for yourself, every panel is different.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Edit all:
Le Derp! Got off mobile mode and I can see the chart now with oc speeds. Well that's better now haha.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Double post.


----------



## acm25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> There you go: http://botox.ath.cx/files/icc/
> 
> Brightness is 12 clicks up from lowest.


Great thanks. For the brightness, that's using the physical button on the monitor, right? Not any SW brightness settings?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Right. You can hold it to go all the way down quicker if you haven't already figured that out.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> I've made this with my glossy monitor running at 120Hz.
> Some people use it with mate panels and say that it fits perfect, you have to try out for yourself, every panel is different.


Thanks. Added rep


----------



## MissingBob

My X-star DP2710 is "Handed over to Air carrier"







I hope it is in the air. Will join the club when I get it and can enter defects. I think I got a pretty sweet deal, pixel perfect for 329 dollars including shipping.


----------



## lolwatpear

you guys think hulustar is the best seller?


----------



## wntrsnowg

I'm happy with mine from hulustar. No dead pixels, almost no bulb, took 2 days to get from SK to CA


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolwatpear*
> 
> you guys think hulustar is the best seller?


There is not and should not be a "best" seller designation. hulustar is good but there are other good ones as well. dream-seller, bigclothcraft, excellent castle are all reported to be pretty good. I would recommend shooting them some questions and decide who you would like best. also check return days 14 vs 30.


----------



## atomicmew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There is not and should not be a "best" seller designation. hulustar is good but there are other good ones as well. dream-seller, bigclothcraft, excellent castle are all reported to be pretty good. I would recommend shooting them some questions and decide who you would like best. also check return days 14 vs 30.


But some sellers are clearly better than others. I'm not gonna say which but do your research and come to your own conclusions.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Dream seems to have amazing prices.


----------



## munaim1

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixels-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-LED-Monitor-2560x1440-/321115357309?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac3f7807d

Gonna order this very soon, any purchased their perfect pixel monitors? Also anyone have any experience with that particular seller? Sorry I've been out the game for some time when it comes to monitors. Any objections on my choice?

Thanks


----------



## ttoadd.nz

All the korean sellers are similar in my experience since they all drop ship from the manufacturer, I really think the 'pixel perfect' monitors are just marketing, even pixel perfect could mean up to 5 dead pixels...

This is the third korean monitor I've brought from ebay, for teh QNIX I went with the cheapest price at the time from Dream Seller $289, the panel arrived in 5 days and is pretty much perfect, very very minor bleed on the botton left, no dead pixels. Only gripe is the monitor does isnt secured to the bezel well but hey, still worth it for a 120hz 1440p panel.


----------



## theyoungone10

Im still skeptical Im doing this right haha. Created a 120hz profile and changed to 120hz in NVidia control panel. Zero problems using Monoprice 24awg 6foot cable. Only problem seems to be that my 660ti is struggling at 1440p 120hz. I guess I might as well try to go higher


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I'm happy with mine from hulustar. No dead pixels, almost no bulb, took 2 days to get from SK to CA


Same, i was suprised.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theyoungone10*
> 
> Im still skeptical Im doing this right haha. Created a 120hz profile and changed to 120hz in NVidia control panel. Zero problems using Monoprice 24awg 6foot cable. Only problem seems to be that my 660ti is struggling at 1440p 120hz. I guess I might as well try to go higher


Yes it would be, at least in newer games. I have a 7950 well overclocked and now want a better GPU. Don't *need* but def want.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixels-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-LED-Monitor-2560x1440-/321115357309?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac3f7807d
> 
> Gonna order this very soon, any purchased their perfect pixel monitors? Also anyone have any experience with that particular seller? Sorry I've been out the game for some time when it comes to monitors. Any objections on my choice?
> 
> Thanks


Price is right...but a less familiar seller and there is a difference between 98.2% positive and the 99.5 that hulustar, for example, has with this kind of volume. Not saying you shouldn't buy this one mind you; just food for thought. Otherwise looks great at a glance. Max dead pixel is one apparently.


----------



## apav

So I recently noticed in the bottom right corner of my desktop I have a "Test Mode" wartermark. I read up on what it was and the only unsigned driver I could think of was the "Testmode" executable file that came with the ATI Pixel Patcher.

So I disabled Testmode, rebooted, and my AMD driver crashed (no windows Aero and I got an error when trying to open CCC) re-enabled Test mode, rebooted, and everything's fine again.

I thought the Testmode was only useful for Nvidia cards, but you can't run the ATI pixel patcher without it then? I guess so or else it breaks the drivers.


----------



## theyoungone10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes it would be, at least in newer games. I have a 7950 well overclocked and now want a better GPU. Don't *need* but def want.


I agree. Its maxing out in Dota 2 at highest settings. However Dota isn't the most demanding game out there which is scary. How much of an effect does a second 1080p monitor have on the gpu?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dayna619*
> 
> Fantastic work taking all the good posts and putting it all in one place.


Thank you. Wish people would 'abandon' the old thread and move all discussion here. So many common questions on that other thread can be answered by reading the OP here


----------



## RagingAzn628

Ok so while playing games I see horizontal red lines flickering, is that the graphics card (GTX 690) or the monitor @ 120hz problem?


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingAzn628*
> 
> Ok so while playing games I see horizontal red lines flickering, is that the graphics card (GTX 690) or the monitor @ 120hz problem?


monitor at 120 drop it down to 96 or 110 and see if it continues


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah it's due to the 120Hz but as to whether it's just the display at that refresh or also has something to do with GPU, drivers, etc as well I don't think we really know yet...? I saw a red line at 120 but only once. Spent vast majority of my time at 96 so far though.


----------



## theyoungone10

I tried bumping up to 136hz and get an error stating that custom resolution is not supported by my display.


----------



## acm25

I'm seeing a very fine vertical banding when I set the refresh rate to 96Hz or above. Not really noticeable in games, but definitely noticeable while browsing or especially looking at photos. It's almost a gradient/reduced color depth effect, except you see it on solid colors as well. Any ideas on how to fix this?


----------



## Koehler

How's the brightness of this monitor? I heard it's 300cd/m^2 which seems higher than normal which is great.

However I think the Korean S-IPS monitors (CrossOver, ShiMian, Yamakasi, QNIX S-IPS, TVera, etc) can read 420cd/m^2 which is absolutely superb and easily the highest I've seen on a commercial monitor.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixels-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-LED-Monitor-2560x1440-/321115357309?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac3f7807d
> 
> Gonna order this very soon, any purchased their perfect pixel monitors? Also anyone have any experience with that particular seller? Sorry I've been out the game for some time when it comes to monitors. Any objections on my choice?
> 
> Thanks


Just beware that this one only got 14 days return policy


----------



## mspamed

Took the jump








Excited and scared at the same time.
Brought an XStar from green-sum . Everyone else charging 40 - 50$ shipping to India.
Well I am kinda lucky so lets see


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Just beware that this one only got 14 days return policy


Is that policy for when you want to return it even though the monitor is fine or does that mean that if the monitor is defectuous you only have 14 days to send it back?


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> How's the brightness of this monitor? I heard it's 300cd/m^2 which seems higher than normal which is great.
> 
> However I think the Korean S-IPS monitors (CrossOver, ShiMian, Yamakasi, QNIX S-IPS, TVera, etc) can read 420cd/m^2 which is absolutely superb and easily the highest I've seen on a commercial monitor.


Why would you want a screen that bright? 120 cd/m^2 is what is recommended for a normally luminous room. I have mine set at 90 cd/m^2, since the lightning is quite dim in the room I have it.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Is that policy for when you want to return it even though the monitor is fine or does that mean that if the monitor is defectuous you only have 14 days to send it back?


Just for returns, the warranty seems to be of 1 years if I am not mistaken.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Just for returns, the warranty seems to be of 1 years if I am not mistaken.


We have 14 days to ship it back or does it have to get back to the seller in 14 days?


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> We have 14 days to ship it back or does it have to get back to the seller in 14 days?


Again not sure but it must be 14 days to ship, I personally have brought it from green-sum and he too offers the same time limit.
I would rather not think about the return shipping just trying to keeps my thoughts positive.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Again not sure but it must be 14 days to ship, I personally have brought it from green-sum and he too offers the same time limit.
> I would rather not think about the return shipping just trying to keeps my thoughts positive.


lol. "Happy thoughts, happy thoughts..."


----------



## chughes65

I ordered a glossy qnix from dreamseller and they ran out of stock before my money processed. Dreamseller offered me a matte qnix in return, should I just take the deal?

Is there really that big of a difference in the displays?


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chughes65*
> 
> I ordered a glossy qnix from dreamseller and they ran out of stock before my money processed. Dreamseller offered me a matte qnix in return, should I just take the deal?
> 
> Is there really that big of a difference in the displays?


I must say you are lucky, seriously.
The glossy screens are bad for your eyes and are also known to cause migraine in general.
Go for the matte one.


----------



## chughes65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I must say you are lucky, seriously.
> The glossy screens are bad for your eyes and are also known to cause migraine in general.
> Go for the matte one.


I feel like I read somewhere that glossy had more vibrant colors though? I also seem to remember reading that the matte was still semi-glossy... So confused haha


----------



## GoldenTiger

Woot, my tracking number just started showing info now.... picked up today in South Korea and it's due in tomorrow already in the US? I'm impressed!


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chughes65*
> 
> I feel like I read somewhere that glossy had more vibrant colors though? I also seem to remember reading that the matte was still semi-glossy... So confused haha


Yes, the anti-glare coating does fade the screen a little. These have very weak coating though, so I'd definitely go for it.

Less reflections>a little duller, imo.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chughes65*
> 
> I feel like I read somewhere that glossy had more vibrant colors though? I also seem to remember reading that the matte was still semi-glossy... So confused haha


That's why I went with the matte one, since it is semi glossy, its like getting the best of both worlds 
I would recommend you take the matte one simply because it will be great irrespective of your room lighting. Where as glossy can be an issue if the lighting is too bright or there is a light source reflection visible through the monitor.


----------



## CptKuolio

lol @ glossy being bad for your eyes and causing migraine









Glossy is 100% same panel w/o anti-glare coating. AG-coating is an added layer, a film, on the panel to 'suck in' ambient light w/o reflecting it back (coating that scatters light). It is normal physics, not rocket science, and it is a game of balance between "how much of color and clarity are you willing to sacrifice for loosing XX% of reflections on a given lense/display/surface".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-reflective_coating
Quote:


> The matte finish anti-glare computer screen also has a disadvantage: It scatters the light coming out of the display, resulting in a slightly less-crisp image for the viewer. The matte finish mutes clarity, color and contrast. Compared to a smooth-surface screen, the image is slightly blurred, which may itself be fatiguing to the eyes.


http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-an-anti-glare-computer-screen.htm

It is just plain physics to come to conclusion: you really cannot have working AG-coating without messing with the properties of light coming out of the display (it is impossible to differentiate light reflecting from panel from light that is coming out of the panel), so you will always sacrifice with colors and clarity. More 'anti-glare-properties' you put to your AG coating, the more it will crap on colors.

Sure, w/o AG you will propably get more eye-strain from your monitor *IF* you keep it ultra-bright. Now, for all normal reasonable people, that is just silly, but yes you probably can give yourself a migraine by pumping your monitor to extra bright, take a white document and keep on staring at it relentlessly for hours (or what ever time you need to develop a migraine). But every normal human being usually has the sense to adjust their brightness to usable, comfortable level.

This being said; Qnix and Xstar are semi-glossy with their matte version, and do actually reflect quite alot. On the positive side; there is very little drawbacks when considering colors and vibrancy. So, if you have windows or powerfull direct light sources near your computerstation; take matte. If lighting is not a problem, you dont have big windows or direct light source; take glossy.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptKuolio*
> 
> lol @ glossy being bad for your eyes and causing migraine


I am aware of the difference between glossy and matte versions. There are always conditions for everything so yeah a glossy might not be the most common cause of migraine, but it is bad for your eyes compared to a matte screen. Thus matte is a better choice. As far as for people who want a monitor for their basements or rooms with very dim lighting should choose glossy, but I would prefer to buy something that will look great in every scenario rather then look best in one and worst in the other.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixels-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-LED-Monitor-2560x1440-/321115357309?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac3f7807d
> 
> Gonna order this very soon, any purchased their perfect pixel monitors? Also anyone have any experience with that particular seller? Sorry I've been out the game for some time when it comes to monitors. Any objections on my choice?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Just beware that this one only got 14 days return policy
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixels-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-LED-Monitor-2560x1440-/321115357309?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac3f7807d
> 
> Gonna order this very soon, any purchased their perfect pixel monitors? Also anyone have any experience with that particular seller? Sorry I've been out the game for some time when it comes to monitors. Any objections on my choice?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Price is right...but a less familiar seller and there is a difference between 98.2% positive and the 99.5 that hulustar, for example, has with this kind of volume. Not saying you shouldn't buy this one mind you; just food for thought. Otherwise looks great at a glance. Max dead pixel is one apparently.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply guys, as suggested it might be better to look at a different seller.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Thanks for the reply guys, as suggested it might be better to look at a different seller.


Was actually looking at the red-cap one. As it's quite cheap and free shipping!

Although the bigclothcraft (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Panel-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/130869204179?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1e786994d3 )
Might be better?
It's a tad more expensive.

They also have a strict testing phase - At least so it says







Max 1 dead pcs.


----------



## Mehdi

If I live in the US, and the shipping says "free". Are there any additional fees I should be expecting?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No. The US has a free trade agreement with S Korea. Also only eBay sellers pay fees.


----------



## hakkafusion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I must say you are lucky, seriously.
> The glossy screens are bad for your eyes and are also known to cause migraine in general.
> Go for the matte one.


<3 my glossy.
Matte definitely cause my headache. *sparkle sparklee*

In all fairness, the matte is semi-gloss. minimum sparkle if any. I don't see any sparkle in my s24a650 vs my gw2450hm which does have a bit. more grainy than sparkle though.


----------



## hakkafusion

whats bad for eyes is pwm flickering when the ag sparkles.
go buy any <2012 dell or LG IPS23** and if you're 1/2 competent you'll immediately know what I'm talking about.

Source: I owned both the dell & the LG, and a potalion & now the qx2710 =D
I must've lost like a year off my eyes thanks to those dells.
Side note: anyone notice pwm flickering with these PLS at all? bc even at minimum brightness it flickers less than my other two monitors next to it atm (which is a good thing lol)


----------



## chughes65

Thanks everyone for the opinions and help! I decided to settle for the matte one. I have no problems with lighting, but I want my monitor as soon as I can get it! Haha I mean hey can you blame me?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chughes65*
> 
> Haha I mean hey can you blame me?


No I can not.

Was looking in on the Dell U2713HM thread...even some $700+ displays are not immune from bleed and tint issues etc (though the causes etc may be different...and they have a true warranty can send theirs back more easily, of course).


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Thanks for the reply guys, as suggested it might be better to look at a different seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was actually looking at the red-cap one. As it's quite cheap and free shipping!
> 
> Although the bigclothcraft (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Panel-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/130869204179?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1e786994d3 )
> Might be better?
> It's a tad more expensive.
> 
> They also have a strict testing phase - At least so it says
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Max 1 dead pcs.
Click to expand...

Hmmmmm I *think* I'll try my luck with red_cap


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah wth go for it...none of these sellers or their units are across-the-board _perfect_. Vast majority from all have been in really good shape though.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah wth go for it...none of these sellers or their units are across-the-board _perfect_. Vast majority from all have been in really good shape though.


Thanks for the confidence.









Now I just gotta shift my Antec HTPC and then go for it.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Thanks for the confidence.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta shift my Antec HTPC and then go for it.


Sound good! Report back when you get it!


----------



## Mjolnir125

According to atomicmew you can get generic korean panels for "$150 to $200" on Craigslist, so you may want to check there.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Hmmmmm I *think* I'll try my luck with red_cap


I wouldn't trade with redcap. He's been the source of many, many headaches, especially with CrossOvers and warranty support.


----------



## wntrsnowg

I've personally never heard of red_cap before


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Hmmmmm I *think* I'll try my luck with red_cap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't trade with redcap. He's been the source of many, many headaches, especially with CrossOvers and warranty support.
Click to expand...

Oh wow.... okay I guess it'll be either one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glossy-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/321099912197?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac30bd405 *Dream Seller*
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/121099795512?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c321c3c38 *Green Sum*
Same but Tempered Glass edition *Green Sum*

Or most likely the Matte version from *dream seller*

Damn so many choices......









*EDIT:*

*Perfect Zero Dead Pixel* but unknown seller


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> *EDIT:*
> 
> *Perfect Zero Dead Pixel* but unknown seller


DON'T GET THAT ONE!!!

It's a completely different screen. Not high res!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Same but Tempered Glass edition *Green Sum*


I've read that the tempered glass ones are prone to having dust behind the glass, and that sellers do not return for this. I advise against, but there always has to be the first person who breaks the stereotype.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> *EDIT:*
> *Perfect Zero Dead Pixel* but unknown seller


weird... a Qnix QX2730LED. Different model, different base... *listing says it is 1920x1080P. AVOID~!*

Overall, green-sum, dream-seller, hulustar, and bigclothcraft are all great sellers. Sure, each has their issues from time to time, but that is the chance we all take with buying one of these monitors. The risk is inherent with the benefits. To make it simple for you, stick with those sellers and a QNIX qx2710 evolution ll


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Has anyone gotten downsampling to work on these monitors? I'm trying to downsample 4K resolution for games but it gives me an error when I try and set it up.


----------



## munaim1

Thanks for the help guys


----------



## gogusrl

Got 2 X-Star matte for myself (to replace a shimian) and a friend. One has 1 dead pixel pretty close to the center and only goes up to 115hz, the other one goes to 120hz and it's pixel perfect. Both have awful backlight bleeding on the bottom of the screen but I plan to pop them open and apply the fix linked around here.

Not sure if it's the anti-glare coating or the PLS screen but it looks a lot better than my Shimian.

Here's my Spyder4 Pro profile @ 120hz

x-star-120hz.zip 2k .zip file


Some other measurements made with the Spyder @ 120hz


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thanks. And please let us know how opening of the bezel and blb fix attempt goes...if you'd care to take some pics even better. The ones I've seen so far are kind of hard to decipher though they might make more sense once I'm actually looking at the inside of mine.


----------



## MissingBob

Thanks gogusrl for the graph and the profiles. I am awaiting a X-star matte myself. I don't know enough to interpret those graphs. Would someone more knowledgeable please comment? Are those graphs representing accurate color reproduction? How does it compare to say Apple/Dell/Eizo graphs, etc? Do OCing the hz affect the color-reproduction or bleeding?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MissingBob*
> 
> Thanks gogusrl for the graph and the profiles. I am awaiting a X-star matte myself. I don't know enough to interpret those graphs. Would someone more knowledgeable please comment? Are those graphs representing accurate color reproduction? How does it compare to say Apple/Dell/Eizo graphs, etc? Do OCing the hz affect the color-reproduction or bleeding?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Yes, very interested also. By the way, anyone read the review from tech report?

http://techreport.com/review/23291/those-27-inch-ips-displays-from-korea-are-for-real


----------



## Auryon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gogusrl*
> 
> Got 2 X-Star matte for myself (to replace a shimian) and a friend. One has 1 dead pixel pretty close to the center and only goes up to 115hz, the other one goes to 120hz and it's pixel perfect. Both have awful backlight bleeding on the bottom of the screen but I plan to pop them open and apply the fix linked around here.
> 
> Not sure if it's the anti-glare coating or the PLS screen but it looks a lot better than my Shimian.
> 
> Here's my Spyder4 Pro profile @ 120hz
> 
> x-star-120hz.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> Some other measurements made with the Spyder @ 120hz


This is pretty spot on for my QNIX at 120 hz thanks!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

That review almost a year old and is for the IPS ones such as the Catleap and Shimian.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Woot, my tracking number just started showing info now.... picked up today in South Korea and it's due in tomorrow already in the US? I'm impressed!


I still don't have a tracking number yet. Weird.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> That review almost a year old and is for the IPS ones such as the Catleap and Shimian.


your right.
Meanwhile I Found a nice review and comparison with the catleap from the administrator of the 120hz.net forum:

http://120hz.net/showthread.php?1880-HyperMatrix-s-QNIX-Q2710-Evolution-2-Review-Overclock-Testing


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> That review almost a year old and is for the IPS ones such as the Catleap and Shimian.
> 
> 
> 
> your right.
> Meanwhile I Found a nice review and comparison with the catleap from the administrator of the 120hz.net forum:
> 
> http://120hz.net/showthread.php?1880-HyperMatrix-s-QNIX-Q2710-Evolution-2-Review-Overclock-Testing
Click to expand...

That has been in the OP for a week, under reviews.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> That has been in the OP for a week, under reviews.


sorry, didn't see it, I am in mobile mode on my smartphone so the OP dosent work properly. Just trying to be helpful.


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I am aware of the difference between glossy and matte versions. There are always conditions for everything so yeah a glossy might not be the most common cause of migraine, but it is bad for your eyes compared to a matte screen. Thus matte is a better choice. As far as for people who want a monitor for their basements or rooms with very dim lighting should choose glossy, but I would prefer to buy something that will look great in every scenario rather then look best in one and worst in the other.


It's not the glosse that is bad for the eyes..It's the ambient lighting that you are viewing the monitor in that will cause eye strain. A matte screen will look better than a monitor without any AG? dont see the logic on that one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakkafusion*
> 
> whats bad for eyes is pwm flickering when the ag sparkles.
> go buy any <2012 dell or LG IPS23** and if you're 1/2 competent you'll immediately know what I'm talking about.
> 
> Source: I owned both the dell & the LG, and a potalion & now the qx2710 =D
> I must've lost like a year off my eyes thanks to those dells.
> Side note: anyone notice pwm flickering with these PLS at all? bc even at minimum brightness it flickers less than my other two monitors next to it atm (which is a good thing lol)


THIS. I used my dell 2407 for 7 yrs and couldnt figure out why i was getting such bad eye strain. Never again.


----------



## jcho285

I received my QX2710 Matte today (no dead pixels







) and changed it to 120hz.
However the color is a lot darker now. is this common or is there a fix?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> sorry, didn't see it, I am in mobile mode on my smartphone so the OP dosent work properly. Just trying to be helpful.


No worries; contributions appreciated.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> I received my QX2710 Matte today (no dead pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and changed it to 120hz.
> However the color is a lot darker now. is this common or is there a fix?


Yeah it is normal; guessing a PLS thing but no one certain of that? Can be adjusted via software brightness, contrast and gamma but a better way is to calibrate at that Hz so try one of the 120hz ICCs in the OP and also on the last page (this thread iirc). The post with color graphs as well.

Hows the bleed?


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auryon*
> 
> This is pretty spot on for my QNIX at 120 hz thanks!


I´ve never used monitor profiles before, so I am trying to educate myself before mine arrives. How do I actually know that the profile fits or is good? I don´t really get it


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> I still don't have a tracking number yet. Weird.


That is odd.... if it's been a couple of days since you ordered I'd contact the seller and ask if there is one available. To give you an idea of the progression, my display is in Alaska now and scheduled for delivery tomorrow to the east coast. I ordered it on Saturday, received tracking info Tuesday morning, and it showed info (other than "invalid number") today and has been updating since on UPS.com.


----------



## jcho285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No worries; contributions appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it is normal; guessing a PLS thing but no one certain of that? Can be adjusted via software brightness, contrast and gamma but a better way is to calibrate at that Hz so try one of the 120hz ICCs in the OP and also on the last page (this thread iirc). The post with color graphs as well.
> 
> Hows the bleed?


Thanks for the info! Its a bit brighter but darker than I'm used to... I changed to ICM from the page before, 120hz something.

There was some bleeding on the bottom but I pressed on it and it went away.
Besides the dark setting, this thing is perfect.


----------



## lolwatpear

can anyone tell me how the tracking/delivery went for hulustar? I ordered yesterday, and still have no shipped symbol on ebay. I even asked him a question yesterday and still no response.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chughes65*
> 
> I feel like I read somewhere that glossy had more vibrant colors though? I also seem to remember reading that the matte was still semi-glossy... So confused haha


Matte is matte, glossy is glossy, semi-gloss doesn't really exist, and people just like throwing the term around as a way to differentiate from Dell and LG's super overkill terrible version of matte which has been the standard for IPS displays for the last 3 or 4 years.

As for matte vs glossy, glossy can give you slightly purer colors and sharper contrast, but it does so at the cost of increased reflections and glare.

In general, if you have the ability to completely control the lighting in your computing area, AND are willing to work in a relatively dark room with a relatively bright monitor, you will be able to enjoy the glossy screen's advantages. Otherwise, you're generally better off with matte. Seeing as most people use their computer in an area that has a window or two, it's fairly easy to see why most screens are matte.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Matte is matte, glossy is glossy, semi-gloss doesn't really exist, and people just like throwing the term around as a way to differentiate from Dell and LG's super overkill terrible version of matte which has been the standard for IPS displays for the last 3 or 4 years.
> 
> As for matte vs glossy, glossy can give you slightly purer colors and sharper contrast, but it does so at the cost of increased reflections and glare.
> 
> In general, if you have the ability to completely control the lighting in your computing area, AND are willing to work in a relatively dark room with a relatively bright monitor, you will be able to enjoy the glossy screen's advantages. Otherwise, you're generally better off with matte. Seeing as most people use their computer in an area that has a window or two, it's fairly easy to see why most screens are matte.


I use my PC in a room where there is no direct sunlight but just to be safe and based on yor guys opinions I ordered the matte. I am sure I will enjoy it very much


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> That has been in the OP for a week, under reviews.
> 
> 
> 
> sorry, didn't see it, I am in mobile mode on my smartphone so the OP dosent work properly. Just trying to be helpful.
Click to expand...

I was just stating but it came off as dick-ish. Im sorry i should have been less direct. Do expandable sections (spoilers) not work while getting in mobile mode?


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I was just stating but it came off as dick-ish. Im sorry i should have been less direct. Do expandable sections (spoilers) not work while getting in mobile mode?


No problem








Exactly, they dont. Even if I choose desktop mode on the stock browser of my Galaxy S3. In mobile mode its even worst, the 1 page of the thread dosent scroll, it stops on the club member list you created. Thanks on the great OP and Thread, by the way.
Will try to do a proper reading on the PC in the next couple of days, while I wait for my QX2710 to arrive. I still have to learn how to OC the monitor and then use the color profiles you guys posted. Will ask for help if I dont get it, of course


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Will ask for help if I dont get it, of course


Awww man! (I keed, I keed)








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolwatpear*
> 
> can anyone tell me how the tracking/delivery went for hulustar? I ordered yesterday, and still have no shipped symbol on ebay. I even asked him a question yesterday and still no response.


Hmm dude is probably slammed now he was really responsive as early as last week. And mine was here before I even looked for tracking. I'm sure alls well but I know it's hard to wait esp w/out concrete info.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolwatpear*
> 
> can anyone tell me how the tracking/delivery went for hulustar? I ordered yesterday, and still have no shipped symbol on ebay. I even asked him a question yesterday and still no response.


Mine from hulustar had no updates for a day after I purchased. When it was marked as shipped on eBay, I believe it had already been shipped but that the tracking info wasn't added right away. I'm horrible at this but Patience patience !


----------



## jcho285

I set my refresh rate to 120hz following instructions and it does show 120hz in Nvidia settings.
However my games, when I turn on vsync, it locks on at 60hz, with my other monitor it locked at 120hz.
Did I mess up somewhere?


----------



## Paps.pt

How come no one talks about 3D Vision with this monitor?


----------



## wntrsnowg

I am wondering what you guys think about these profiles? Personally, out of every calibration profile posted thus far, the Asus PB278Q V3.icc looked the best on my monitor. Any of them work the best for you as well?

Calibration profiles for name-brand monitors that have the same PLS panel inside of them as the QNIX & X-star might work out for you. Calibrations posted *here at TFT Central* may be stock factory and/or personal calibrations for said monitors.
Name brand monitors that have the same PLS panel internally Go to tft central and download these:
Asus PB278Q
Samsung S27A850D
Viewsonic VP2770-LED

p.s. this info has been added to the OP.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cool, will try those.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> I set my refresh rate to 120hz following instructions and it does show 120hz in Nvidia settings.
> However my games, when I turn on vsync, it locks on at 60hz, with my other monitor it locked at 120hz.
> Did I mess up somewhere?


Hmm if you are not using the CRU you need the Catleap 2B INF so games know what's up. It's on 120Hz.net somewhere...


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I am wondering what you guys think about these profiles? Personally, out of every calibration profile posted thus far, the Asus PB278Q V3.icc looked the best on my monitor. Any of them work the best for you as well?
> 
> Calibration profiles for name-brand monitors that have the same PLS panel inside of them as the QNIX & X-star might work out for you. Calibrations posted *here at TFT Central* may be stock factory and/or personal calibrations for said monitors.
> Name brand monitors that have the same PLS panel internally Go to tft central and download these:
> Asus PB278Q
> Samsung S27A850D
> Viewsonic VP2770-LED
> 
> p.s. this info has been added to the OP.


these profiles are waaay better than any profile i have used so far. Thank you for posting.


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I´ve never used monitor profiles before, so I am trying to educate myself before mine arrives. How do I actually know that the profile fits or is good? I don´t really get it


Highly recommend going to tftcentral website OP posted and reading the tutorial on how to apply an icc. That showed me everything i need to do.

LINK
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#install


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I would have thought that Use Windows Calibration checkbox is related to the crappy hardware-less calibration procedure provided by Windows and activated with the button to the left there.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sammysamsam*
> 
> It's not the glosse that is bad for the eyes..It's the ambient lighting that you are viewing the monitor in that will cause eye strain. A matte screen will look better than a monitor without any AG? dont see the logic on that one.


My point was that a matte screen will look good in an uncontrolled environment compared to a glossy one. I personally hate glossy screens. Many times even in dark rooms when there is a bright scene in a movie or game I see a glimpse of my reflection on the monitor, which I hate cause then I end up looking for them and not enjoying the move as much.
There was a review on YouTube in which the guy is sitting in a completely dark room and have taken pictures of the glossy screen. The glossy version is just a bit too glossy for my room.


----------



## jcho285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cool, will try those.
> Hmm if you are not using the CRU you need the Catleap 2B INF so games know what's up. It's on 120Hz.net somewhere...


I've been searching on 120hz.net for the last hour or so fo the 2b INF. Only thing I found was "Catleap_Q270_OC_v2", "Catleap_Q270_OC" or "catleap.inf"
I tried those and did the CRU method. Its all showing up on my nvidia settings as 120hz but my monitor settings shows up as 59/60hz...[/S]

Tried the "Catleap_Q270_OC" and it worked


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> How come no one talks about 3D Vision with this monitor?


I too am interested in this, but tbh I am not going to over clock these monitors. My last monitor was an Acer and it lasted me 5 years before it died. The problems started just after I forced my gt560 to run 1440 x900 resolution at 60 hz on that screen. The monitor is a 16:10 with its recommended resolution being 1440x900 but for some reason after upgrading to my gtx 560 that resolution was unavailable and I had to use nvidia control panel to force it. I remember getting a warning message, it suggested that prolonged use of a custom resolution might damage my monitor, the poor thing now sits on my desk covered in dust. Will be getting the repair kit in a few weeks, will fix it then.


----------



## Alcaro

Received my monitor from Hulustar today.
One stuck pixel in top center left, scarcely noticeable unless on a static dark background.
Backlight bleeding is fairly bad, I will take some pictures when I find my wife's camera.
If I decide to open it up and do the tape fix will I void my warranty? Or is it a traceless modification since it looks like you need to remove the back to vesa mount anyway?


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gogusrl*
> 
> Got 2 X-Star matte for myself (to replace a shimian) and a friend. One has 1 dead pixel pretty close to the center and only goes up to 115hz, the other one goes to 120hz and it's pixel perfect. Both have awful backlight bleeding on the bottom of the screen but I plan to pop them open and apply the fix linked around here.
> 
> Not sure if it's the anti-glare coating or the PLS screen but it looks a lot better than my Shimian.
> 
> Here's my Spyder4 Pro profile @ 120hz
> 
> x-star-120hz.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> Some other measurements made with the Spyder @ 120hz


yep this definetly best for me at 121hz


----------



## Timu

Looks like I'm gonna be part of this club soon as my Qnix comes in. I ordered it on the 6th, it shipped on the 7th and is now finally in the US, can't wait!

BTW I ordered a Matte, can't stand glossy when the light is on.


----------



## mspamed

I got a tracking number for my x-star from dream seller where the hell am I supposed to track it but, any links you guys aware off?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alcaro*
> 
> Received my monitor from Hulustar today.
> One stuck pixel in top center left, scarcely noticeable unless on a static dark background.
> Backlight bleeding is fairly bad, I will take some pictures when I find my wife's camera.
> If I decide to open it up and do the tape fix will I void my warranty? Or is it a traceless modification since it looks like you need to remove the back to vesa mount anyway?


Try to slightly press the bleeding area and see if there are any changes noticeable. If it goes away go for the fix.


----------



## jcho285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> Looks like I'm gonna be part of this club soon as my Qnix comes in. I ordered it on the 6th, it shipped on the 7th and is now finally in the US, can't wait!
> 
> BTW I ordered a Matte, can't stand glossy when the light is on.


Gratz on your purchase! I've been tinkering with mine for half the day today and just got mine to 120hz.
Damn finals week so I can't really play with it


----------



## jakubk

My QNIX has just arrived in Koeln, Germany! So I should get it tomorrow or on Monday


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I got a tracking number for my x-star from dream seller where the hell am I supposed to track it but, any links you guys aware off?


For mine I use DHL tracking by going to this link:
http://wap.dhl.com/track/

But I ordered from amazon so it's easier for me anyways.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> Gratz on your purchase! I've been tinkering with mine for half the day today and just got mine to 120hz.
> Damn finals week so I can't really play with it


Damn finals, lol. Well thanks and wow, you got it to 120hz without any problems?


----------



## Paps.pt

Found a great site were we can search world-wide tracking number, dosent matter the shipping company, works great, you can leave it in auto-detect:









http://www.trackitonline.ru/


----------



## Paps.pt

Anyone know what are the differences between the QX2700 and the QX2710?


----------



## slh28

Is there anything I should be aware of when OCing to 120Hz with Crossfire? Like the SLI pixel clock patcher?

Also since I'm running 3 monitors (2 of them are 60Hz) is it possible to run the Qnix at 120Hz and the other 2 at 60Hz? I'm a total noob at monitor overclocking


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Anyone know what are the differences between the QX2700 and the QX2710?


OX2700 has more inputs and both have different stands from each other.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Okay it didn't seem like i could get an answer on the original Korean monitor thread so hopefully someone can here.

I have a HD 6970 GPU and on the back plate there seems to be two dual link DVI-I ports, i could be wrong though but can i still connect the dual link DVI-D that the monitor requires to it. Also sorry if this is a noob question i'm just not very familiar with this.


----------



## Paps.pt

yes you can but you have to use a dual-link DVI cable


----------



## Cwinston

Strange situation here.

I attempted an exchange with hulustar, and it seemed he wouldn't bite. Fair enough, since bleeding isn't covered in their warranty, but I figured it couldn't hurt to try.

But after he sent a reply suggesting that I kick in the monitor box and file a claim on DHL for damaging the package in transit, and that they will do the same on their end.

Has anyone dealt with something like this before? I'm not sure how to proceed at this point.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Well of course i was just wondering since the monitor comes with a dual link DVI-*D* cable if i could connect it since it looked like i have dual link DVI-I. So i presume i can then.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cwinston*
> 
> Strange situation here.
> 
> I attempted an exchange with hulustar, and it seemed he wouldn't bite. Fair enough, since bleeding isn't covered in their warranty, but I figured it couldn't hurt to try.
> 
> But after he sent a reply suggesting that I kick in the monitor box and file a claim on DHL for damaging the package in transit, and that they will do the same on their end.
> 
> Has anyone dealt with something like this before? I'm not sure how to proceed at this point.


That's never happened before...


----------



## MissingBob

Oh my Cwinston. I would not proceed as Hulustar advise you to. I am not a legal advisor and this is not a place to search legal advise, but his suggestion must be some kind of fraud.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Okay it didn't seem like i could get an answer on the original Korean monitor thread so hopefully someone can here.
> 
> I have a HD 6970 GPU and on the back plate there seems to be two dual link DVI-I ports, i could be wrong though but can i still connect the dual link DVI-D that the monitor requires to it. Also sorry if this is a noob question i'm just not very familiar with this.


You can connect DVI-D cables to DVI-I ports without any issues.

Please note that your HD 6970 only has 1 DL-DVI port - the other is only a SL-DVI port and will not work with these monitors at full resolution and refresh rates.


----------



## Mehdi

I realize there may be bias to this question, but is there any reason I should consider the Asus/BenQ 120hz monitors over these korean monitors? If gaming is my primary objective?


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You can connect DVI-D cables to DVI-I ports without any issues.
> 
> Please note that your HD 6970 only has 1 DL-DVI port - the other is only a SL-DVI port and will not work with these monitors at full resolution and refresh rates.


Thank you! was really confused about that since i couldn't find anything on it on the spec sheet. +rep


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mehdi*
> 
> I realize there may be bias to this question, but is there any reason I should consider the Asus/BenQ 120hz monitors over these korean monitors? If gaming is my primary objective?


Those are real 120hz monitors that have less motion blur, Lightboost enhanced operation with CRT clarity, warrantied 120hz operation without any fuss or muss, and support Nvidia 3D vision.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Those are real 120hz monitors that have less motion blur, Lightboost enhanced operation with CRT clarity, warrantied 120hz operation without any fuss or muss, and support Nvidia 3D vision.


Yes but they are TN so their image quality is worst then this one.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Yes but they are TN so their image quality is worst then this one.


Indeed. And Qnix/X-star provides 8bit colour, 1440p, lower input lag, better and more stable colour reproduction in the whole gamut range and generally better image quality in static or non-motion critical uses.

But the reasons I listed before are why one might pick a 120hz BenQ/Asus over a Qnix/X-star, especially if gaming.


----------



## Timu

My monitor just came in, going to set it up now!!!


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> My monitor just came in, going to set it up now!!!


Report back ASAP!


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Indeed. And Qnix/X-star provides 8bit colour, 1440p, lower input lag, better and more stable colour reproduction in the whole gamut range and generally better image quality in static or non-motion critical uses.
> 
> But the reasons I listed before are why one might pick a 120hz BenQ/Asus over a Qnix/X-star, especially if gaming.


I dont see many persons talking about the gaming experience with this monitor, overclocked or not. That will be one of the main activities I will be doing with this monitor.
Can you please give some insights on the subject?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Mine is due in today, status out for delivery.... C'mon!


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Mine is due in today, status out for delivery.... C'mon!


Noticed you have a Dell U3011 just wondering what made you go for one of these Korean monitors?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I dont see many persons talking about the gaming experience with this monitor, overclocked or not. That will be one of the main activities I will be doing with this monitor.
> Can you please give some insights on the subject?


I guess I haven't been talking about gaming because I haven't been having any problems! It's phenomenal, of course! Great IQ, higher refresh, increased screen size *and* pixel density. Coming from 23" 1200P. I just wish I had a more powerful GPU now, but, again, I'm having a good experience already (though I don't own any games released in over a year, at this time. Latest I play regularly are BF3 and Skyrim still...but I also love eye candy incl high AA).


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I guess I haven't been talking about gaming because I haven't been having any problems! It's phenomenal, of course! Great IQ, higher refresh, increased screen size *and* pixel density. Coming from 23" 1200P. I just wish I had a more powerful GPU now, but, again, I'm having a good experience already (though I don't own any games released in the last year, at this time. Latest I play regularly are BF3 and Skyrim still...but I also love eye candy incl high AA).


Great. You play with the 120hz refresh rate? Do the games you play gladly accept that?


----------



## jakubk

I have just received a call from FedEx asking for some documents for the customs taxes stuff so I guess I'm not gonna avoid it in the end :/ So the total price for my QNIX will be about $420


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Noticed you have a Dell U3011 just wondering what made you go for one of these Korean monitors?


I want 120hz. And, I want some extra cash to maybe use for a second GTX 780 at their launch if I sell my U3011 in time...







. The U3011 is a gorgeous screen but I've been thinking about trying 120hz for ages and barely missed the whole initial Catleap 2B phase... not willing to back down to TN color/color-shifting/deficiencies or 1920x1080 so this PLS panel is my best shot







.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Great. You play with the 120hz refresh rate? Do the games you play gladly accept that?


No, not at this time. 96. Because I can't often push 120 frames (though I also can't push even close 96 in BF3 and so far it generally _feels_ like it runs ok...though the perfoverlay graph shows I need more GPU power) and also due to the increased darkening (still have to play with 120Hz ICCs more).

I have tried a couple older games that can do 96+ and while I don't personally notice any increased "smoothness" and such I do already have much less eye strain. As in none.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> I have just received a call from FedEx asking for some documents for the customs taxes stuff so I guess I'm not gonna avoid it in the end :/ So the total price for my QNIX will be about $420


That's why I asked him to send it through EMS. I hope it's cheaper than that 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> I want 120hz. And, I want some extra cash to maybe use for a second GTX 780 at their launch if I sell my U3011 in time...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The U3011 is a gorgeous screen but I've been thinking about trying 120hz for ages and barely missed the whole initial Catleap 2B phase... not willing to back down to TN color/color-shifting/deficiencies or 1920x1080 so this PLS panel is my best shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


When you get it please do a comparison between both
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No, not at this time. 96. Because I can't often push 120 frames (though I also can't push even close 96 in BF3 and so far it generally _feels_ like it runs ok...though the perfoverlay graph shows I need more GPU power) and also due to the increased darkening (still have to play with 120Hz ICCs more).
> 
> I have tried a couple older games that can do 96+ and while I don't personally notice any increased "smoothness" and such I do already have much less eye strain. As in none.


What cards do you have at the moment?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

It's right there in my sig dude. 7950 near 1200 core. Crossfire not an option at present; I am mini-itx. But I also can't dump almost $300 more into gaming right now anyway.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> I want 120hz. And, I want some extra cash to maybe use for a second GTX 780 at their launch if I sell my U3011 in time...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The U3011 is a gorgeous screen but I've been thinking about trying 120hz for ages and barely missed the whole initial Catleap 2B phase... not willing to back down to TN color/color-shifting/deficiencies or 1920x1080 so this PLS panel is my best shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I can definitely understand that i come from a 23" TN panel which was total crap, so really looking forward to getting my QNIX even if it has dead pixels and some light bleed i have lived with much worse.

Also should be getting mine in the mail by tomorrow can't wait







also really looking forward to the nVidia 700 series think when i have money for some upgrades i will go for the 770 the cooler system from the TITAN/690 sure is nice to have. Well or wait until 2014 for the Maxwell architecture.


----------



## Paps.pt

I am in mobile mode, can't see Sig. But yeah, I have 570 sli (same performance has 590) and knew I had to have 670 sli (same has 690) to have nice frame rate @1440p. Check here:

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/516?vs=586


----------



## Timu

Gonna get pics up, but I have to say, besides a tiny bit of backlight bleeding on the bottom right that doesn't even bother me much, it's awesome so far with no dead or stuck pixels!!!


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> I have just received a call from FedEx asking for some documents for the customs taxes stuff so I guess I'm not gonna avoid it in the end :/ So the total price for my QNIX will be about $420


Man that sucks how much did you pay for it without the customs fee? I'll also be getting my QNIX tomorrow i think. Really hope they wont stop for customs clearance, mine was shipped with DHL and the annoying thing is every time pretty much i have to pay taxes for it when it's shipped with them, i just hope i'm lucky this time. We live pretty close so we'll see


----------



## Timu

With little backlight bleeding, no dead or stuck pixels that I can see, and overclocking to 120hz like it's nothing, I'm impressed with my monitor, some pics as well:


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> With little backlight bleeding, no dead or stuck pixels that I can see, and overclocking to 120hz like it's nothing, I'm impressed with my monitor, some pics as well:


Congrats  Mine was shipped today wish me luck.


----------



## jcho285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> With little backlight bleeding, no dead or stuck pixels that I can see, and overclocking to 120hz like it's nothing, I'm impressed with my monitor, some pics as well:


Nice!
How did you overclock so easily? I'm still tinkering with mine, for some reason it wants to go back to 60hz when I turn on my computer again.
Which INF file did you use?


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> Nice!
> How did you overclock so easily? I'm still tinkering with mine, for some reason it wants to go back to 60hz when I turn on my computer again.
> Which INF file did you use?


I used the Catleap_Q270_OC inf file and only used the Nvidia Control Panel to get 80hz, 96hz and 120hz.


----------



## jakubk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Man that sucks how much did you pay for it without the customs fee? I'll also be getting my QNIX tomorrow i think. Really hope they wont stop for customs clearance, mine was shipped with DHL and the annoying thing is every time pretty much i have to pay taxes for it when it's shipped with them, i just hope i'm lucky this time. We live pretty close so we'll see


The base price was $309, VAT here is 21% and import taxes are 13% so the total price should be around $420 :/ Good luck with your QNIX!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

lol dude why are you always browsing on your phone? That would drive me nuts. No other monitor maybe?

Also wanted to mention to you (and others) that there is a "1400P and Above Gaming Club" thread here too in case you didn't know.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> The base price was $309, VAT here is 21% and import taxes are 13% so the total price should be around $420 :/ Good luck with your QNIX!


Thanks mate, really do hope i wont have to pay the 25% VAT and 12% border tax. But if it's in good condition without to many dead/stuck pixels and no terrible light bleed, then i can live with it since it probably is a very good product from what i've seen


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> The base price was $309, VAT here is 21% and import taxes are 13% so the total price should be around $420 :/ Good luck with your QNIX!


Yeh, i'm fearing the same. As i'm from Denmark i got all that stuff too... But i comfort myself in that it's still more value than a 27 Dell for example


----------



## crimelol

Got my X-star from bigclothcraft and it's got no dead or stuck pixels. I didn't have enough time to check back light but I'll do that when I get home.

Stand is terrible but I knew that coming into it so no biggie.


----------



## Deeya

Got mine in yesterday, a matte X-Star. I changed the stand because it felt a bit wobbly. I put one of these on it and it's wonderful. No bad pixels and backlighting is great.


----------



## riflepwnage

Makes me think i should have waited for one of these monitors, payed around $300 for an IPS shimian a while back.


----------



## GoldenTiger

So my panel came in, it has minimal panel rocking at the very top left and right.... minimal backlight bleeding... no dead pixels that I was able to find using the test color images. However, I'm trying to OC it and a little confused. I used the Custom Resolution Utility after patching my driver (re-running patcher tells me they are already patched) and enabling test mode (which sticks on reboot, I have the text in the bottom right on my desktop). I initially added a 96hz resolution which I have verified is working and definitely makes text sharper when dragging windows around/etc. However, I tried removing the 96hz resolution and then sticking a 120hz to test, rebooted, and it's still stuck on 96hz. If I try applying a custom 120hz resolution with the Test button in the nVidia control panel, it just says "your monitor doesn't support this resolution", same if I try 95hz or 97hz (but 98hz works for some reason). What am I doing wrong?







I want to shoot for 120...

Otherwise it seems I ended up with an excellent panel (bigclothcraft, ordered 5/4 for 300 shipped and arrived today, matte coating.. speaking of which, the coating is very nice, eliminates glare but isn't causing the grainy sparkly effect my other matte panels had)! I'm using the Asus PB278Q v3.icc from tftcentral as my color profile and it fits the best. I'm very pleased but just need a pointer to figure out how to try other refresh rates...







.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

You're on NV maybe ditch the CRU and try just the NV control panel plus the Catleap 2B INF.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You're on NV maybe ditch the CRU and try just the NV control panel plus the Catleap 2B INF.


I tried installing the INF but it says it has no digital signature info after I go through the have disk step, and offers no way to just install anyway. Any ideas?







Do I need to disable driver signature enforcement in windows?


----------



## bhazard451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> I tried installing the INF but it says it has no digital signature info after I go through the have disk step, and offers no way to just install anyway. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I need to disable driver signature enforcement in windows?


Test mode does that I thought.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhazard451*
> 
> Test mode does that I thought.


I have testmode enabled for sure, but it just says "No third party signature information with this INF". Is it possible I have the wrong one? It's from the 120hz site and just is called "catleap.inf".


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> I have testmode enabled for sure, but it just says "No third party signature information with this INF". Is it possible I have the wrong one? It's from the 120hz site and just is called "catleap.inf".


I tried the Catleap_Q270_OC inf to get it to work.


----------



## GoldenTiger

So I googled around and for windows 8 you have to disable it on a per-bootup basis to install the INF (driver signature enforcement) using the advanced startup options. I did so and now my monitor shows as a Catleap Extreme in device manager... but I still get this if I try to set anything but the 96hz or 60hz settings?



This is from the nVidia control panel.

My CRU looks like this:



EDIT: Any resolution that results in a 400mhz+ pixel clock says it's not supported... anything under is working. I don't see how to do 120hz without bumping over that... I know I'm doing something wrong. What is it?







And yes, I'm using CVT Reduced Blank as the setting in the control panel.

*EDIT2: Apparrently 200 series/below GPU's won't work with the pixel clock patcher. I am temporarily on a 9600 GSO until the GTX 780 cards hit. That is why I am having this problem. Disregard!







*


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> I still don't have a tracking number yet. Weird.


Okay, got my tracking number last night and they will be here tomorrow for me to play with them on the weekend. Yay!!! Can't wait.


----------



## Jinru

Well, I have a bit of news for you all today.

If anyone remembers. I was the poor sap that couldn't OC his Qnix. Best I could manage was 64hz without having glaring scan lines across the display.

I purchased a 10ft 28awg dual dvi cable from Monoprice and just received it today. I hooked it up and now I get a stable 110hz OC. I'm going to keep it at 96hz for now until I upgrade my rig.



Do not buy dual link dvi cables from Newegg.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Well, I have a bit of news for you all today.
> 
> If anyone remembers. I was the poor sap that couldn't OC his Qnix. Best I could manage was 64hz without having glaring scan lines across the display.
> 
> I purchased a 10ft 28awg dual dvi cable from Monoprice and just received it today. I hooked it up and now I get a stable 110hz OC. I'm going to keep it at 96hz for now until I upgrade my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Do not buy dual link dvi cables from Newegg.


Wow, just awesome man.=p


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Well, I have a bit of news for you all today.
> 
> If anyone remembers. I was the poor sap that couldn't OC his Qnix. Best I could manage was 64hz without having glaring scan lines across the display.
> 
> I purchased a 10ft 28awg dual dvi cable from Monoprice and just received it today. I hooked it up and now I get a stable 110hz OC. I'm going to keep it at 96hz for now until I upgrade my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Do not buy dual link dvi cables from Newegg.


Woot, glad to hear that! Congrats







. I don't think anyone who read your post didn't feel a little bad for you originally....


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes and and I am fairly certain this means they ALL do at least 100Hz so far. That anyone has cared to post about anyway (and people with problems usually post about them).


----------



## Beatwolf

i should be getting mine tomorrow (today actually as its night time here), cant wait. I think they are driving that thing up in a truck from Köln cause no updates for a while. What sux however, is that I have to RMA my gfx card on monday so not much playing around for me








Also with my luck I´m gonna be paying taxes out my ass, especially cause im in Denmark and those tax ****ers catch everything.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Well, I have a bit of news for you all today.
> 
> If anyone remembers. I was the poor sap that couldn't OC his Qnix. Best I could manage was 64hz without having glaring scan lines across the display.
> 
> I purchased a 10ft 28awg dual dvi cable from Monoprice and just received it today. I hooked it up and now I get a stable 110hz OC. I'm going to keep it at 96hz for now until I upgrade my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Do not buy dual link dvi cables from Newegg.


Hmm i wonder if that monoprice cable you got will help me get that extra 15 hz to put me at 120 hz lol..

Does how long the cable is effect the OC? Shorter is better or is longer the better or does it not matter at all? Hahaha.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Hmm i wonder if that monoprice cable you got will help me get that extra 15 hz to put me at 120 hz lol..


I would recommend the 24awg CL2 6-foot one if you're buying a new cable and want to have the best chances. Heavy heavy shielding and thick-as-all-heck cable. I wouldn't get too hopeful but it has been reported to help some on the Overlord monitors I gather.


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Well, I have a bit of news for you all today.
> 
> If anyone remembers. I was the poor sap that couldn't OC his Qnix. Best I could manage was 64hz without having glaring scan lines across the display.
> 
> I purchased a 10ft 28awg dual dvi cable from Monoprice and just received it today. I hooked it up and now I get a stable 110hz OC. I'm going to keep it at 96hz for now until I upgrade my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Do not buy dual link dvi cables from Newegg.


Hmmm. Looks like i might try one of their cables to reach 120hz without scan lines.


----------



## GoldenTiger

I just can't wait to try 120hz and see if it works (hopefully so!)... I can't go beyond 400mhz pixel clock even patched with the card I have due to its age,







. Still, I'm glad 96hz is rock-solid for me already, 120hz would be nice gravy though.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> I would recommend the 24awg CL2 6-foot one if you're buying a new cable and want to have the best chances. Heavy heavy shielding and thick-as-all-heck cable. I wouldn't get too hopeful but it has been reported to help some on the Overlord monitors I gather.


Thanks for the recommendation, i'll probably get that then!


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> I just can't wait to try 120hz and see if it works (hopefully so!)... I can't go beyond 400mhz pixel clock even patched with the card I have due to its age,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still, I'm glad 96hz is rock-solid for me already, 120hz would be nice gravy though.


If you're waiting for the 780, isn't it possible that you are going to wait until the end of the year? I couldn't wait that long. ;-)


----------



## Beatwolf

does this mean the standard cable supplied might not be good enough to reach 120hz?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> If you're waiting for the 780, isn't it possible that you are going to wait until the end of the year? I couldn't wait that long. ;-)


May 23rd. Count on it







.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> does this mean the standard cable supplied might not be good enough to reach 120hz?


Yes. The cable is pretty thin and cables can affect your overclock. No harm in trying it, if it works it works, but you will generally see slightly better results from what I've read using a better cable gauge with thicker shielding for this application.


----------



## canislupusan

Hello everyone, I recently purchased a 30" Crossover, My question is this: When my monitor is in sleep mode, and when there is silence in the room (late hours) i can hear a light "humming" noise coming from the power brick. Does any of these 2 monitors have a similar issue with the power brick?


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Yes. The cable is pretty thin and cables can affect your overclock. No harm in trying it, if it works it works, but you will generally see slightly better results from what I've read using a better cable gauge with thicker shielding for this application.


Ok thx for clearing that up. So it should be a DVI-D cable right?


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> does this mean the standard cable supplied might not be good enough to reach 120hz?


the 1 mine came with gets me to 121hz no problem

but the original 1 I had from my catleap only got 110hz ,just luck of the draw I guess


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> i should be getting mine tomorrow (today actually as its night time here), cant wait. I think they are driving that thing up in a truck from Köln cause no updates for a while. What sux however, is that I have to RMA my gfx card on monday so not much playing around for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also with my luck I´m gonna be paying taxes out my ass, especially cause im in Denmark and those tax ****ers catch everything.


Yeah i should get mine too tomorrow we are both from Copenhagen too. And yes i pretty much always have to pay taxes especially when they are shipped with DHL as they are now.

When i try and track it, the newest info says "Customs status updated" don't know what that's supposed to mean, but anyway good luck with yours, crossing fingers i don't have to pay a big one this time around either.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Ok thx for clearing that up. So it should be a DVI-D cable right?


Yep







. This is the cable you'll want (ebay listing by monoprice: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390577751948 monoprice.com listing: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2 ). Remember it's not a guarantee it'll help but it sometimes does.


----------



## bhazard451

Its awesome to see all these happy monitor owners such as myself, and seeing so many 100hz+ overclocks. These monitors are hidden gems (well, not anymore lol).


----------



## archimag0

Hi all, just joined to say thanks for the advice in this thread. I bought an X-Star from bigclothcraft for $286 last week and it arrived yesterday. No dead pixels and minimal backlight bleed. Enclosure is a little flimsy, and it sounds like something is rattling around in there, but that's not a big deal. I really appreciate all the info posted here, very helpful!


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> May 23rd. Count on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Oh indeed they actually have two dates May 16th and 23th don't know which one is the right one, but they said they wanted to reveal it earlier than expected. Also here is a nice thread about the cards if you haven't already looked http://www.overclock.net/t/1389133/vc-nvidia-geforce-gtx-770-780-pictured-780-features-gk110-300-gpu


----------



## Timu

Do you guys use a US power cord or the Korean one with the included adapter? I use the US power cord just to be safe.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Oh indeed they actually have two dates May 16th and 23th don't know which one is the right one, but they said they wanted to reveal it earlier than expected. Also here is a nice thread about the cards if you haven't already looked http://www.overclock.net/t/1389133/vc-nvidia-geforce-gtx-770-780-pictured-780-features-gk110-300-gpu


It's up in the air still, but.... May 16th would please me greatly







. I've been keeping up on rumors pretty well... I appreciate you trying to help and give info though







. Rep given.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> It's up in the air still, but.... May 16th would please me greatly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've been keeping up on rumors pretty well... I appreciate you trying to help and give info though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Rep given.


Thanks mate







also really looking forward to them even though they aren't with the Maxwell architecture it sure is nice to have the TITAN cooler.

And the 770 which i think i'm going for is going to be around the same price as the GTX 680 or possibly lower and 5% better performance. You definitely can't go wrong with either 770 or 780 if you ask me


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I could not see any reason to use that funky adapter unless you had to... /shrug


----------



## crimelol

ultimate first world problem with my new monitor. almost too big for my desk.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I could not see any reason to use that funky adapter unless you had to... /shrug


Makes sense...I read about it and it was best to use a US power cord anyways despite that adapter...I think a lot of people did use that adapter though like when you see someone complain about their monitor failing on youtube.


----------



## bhazard451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> Makes sense...I read about it and it was best to use a US power cord anyways despite that adapter...I think a lot of people did use that adapter though like when you see someone complain about their monitor failing on youtube.


Use a US power cord. Safer.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> Do you guys use a US power cord or the Korean one with the included adapter? I use the US power cord just to be safe.


I also use US power cord too. The worldwide converter is nice though if you ever travel haha.


----------



## lolwatpear

can overclocking the hz of a monitor potentially damage or reduce its lifetime?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolwatpear*
> 
> can overclocking the hz of a monitor potentially damage or reduce its lifetime?


Yes. Realistically it shouldn't typically do so by much, but there are exceptions, and for high-res IPS/PLS the only real data points are some U3011/similar models with slight oc's and Catleaps + these with large oc's... so far people's catleaps are trucking along just fine so I'd tend towards thinking it should be fine for the long haul, but that's just my opinion.


----------



## MenacingTuba

There are plenty of people who have been running overclocked Dell 2209WA's (probably the most popular overclockable monitor aside from the Catleaps) for 3+ years without issue

*Qnix 96hz profile for 6500k color temperature and 2.2 gamma*

Use whatever brightness you want with my profile.

Default settings are amazing, mine accepts 96hz-120hz. I purchased a matte pixel perfect version form hulstar and it seems to be pixel perfect. Have to do a bleed check still. The panel does not sit perfectly in the bezel

Default gamma averages around 2.0 which is fine, setting the monitor to 96hz raises the gamma to around 2.2-2.3 which is excellent and 120hz raises the gamma to 2.60 which results in some crushing of darker gray shades.

The color temperature remains around 6500k regardless of the hz, as does the peak brightness which stays around 282cdm/2. The contrast ratio is outstanding around 1,000:1 regardless of the hz before and after calibration.

Occasionally thin horizontal blue and white lines flash briefly @120hz so I am using 96hz. I will create ICC profiles for 60 & 120hz later.


----------



## Cwinston

Well I decided to stop messing around and just open the monitor. The results were amazing as I was able to get rid of almost all the bleed.

The metal frame was pushing on the panel due to it being slightly bent out of shape, and the clips holding it on the panel. I used pliers to bend the clips so that none of them can clip on the panel, so they stop clamping down on the screen. That left only the 2 side brackets holding the panel in place.

Now the only down side is that you can kinda push the panel in at certain points, so I have to remember not to use force next time I wipe the screen clean.

The 2 pesky stuck pixels are still there, not really sure how to deal with those at the moment. The video that cycles through colours hasn't worked yet, but I hope they will go away soon on their own.


----------



## el aye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Occasionally thin horizontal blue and white lines flash briefly @120hz so I am using 96hz. I will create ICC profiles for 60 & 120hz later.


I get the same. It obviously gets much worse when going higher (they are pretty much constantly there at 125Hz).


----------



## evilferret

Thanks for the thread.

Finally finished reading and ordered an Xstar from hulustar.

Hoping I get lucky with the monitor!


----------



## Spartan F8

Just in case anyone has been following my posts i have been able to push mine to 142hz with ALL kinds of tinkering. I have been using the stock cable doing this as the old dual link newegg cable did not work at all when OC. I have 3 three foot cables on their way from monoprice. All are 3' long as the shorter the better(usually). I want 144hz soooooooo bad for bragging rights







. I also want to let you all know even at 142hz these DO NOT FRAME SKIP(tested with refresh rate multitool). i have done lots of gaming and with the games i can run at 120hz(Gfx card limitations







) i have have practically no motion blur or input lag. i have been gaming at 120hz most of the time but also have been doing 140hz but i do see some lines here and there. for those wondering about game experience i have had good experience with every game i have tested so far and i will list them below.

Blur
cryostasis
crysis (had to lower a lot of settings to get 120hz but it does play crysis







)
crysis 2 {not as bad)
crysis 3(almost as bad as 1)
dead space 1,2,3 (120hz easy on SLI gtx570s)
Fable lost chapters
left for dead
Quake 2 (why not)
shadowrun (120hz made me damn near unstoppable)
unreal
tomb raider
dragon age
lost planet
Halo 2
prototype

Hopefully this helps some people but i can really tell you about my experience with shadowrun since it is a very fast pass game. Basically it gives an unfair advantage over most of the guys in there(aside from other 120hz gamers maybe) it just seemed like i have a have second of spidy sense or something and i was not having just a good night as i have been playing off and on for the last week and it is always the same.

anyways i have gone on enough and will check back in after my cables get here


----------



## Beatwolf

when do you think these will be available in DK? Probably somewhat later right? Anyway good luck with your monitor, and taxes and everything.


----------



## furyau

Great monitor, straight to 116hz.

Colour profile has been hard....

Overall very very happy!!


----------



## mspamed

I got the tracking number yesterday morning, but the tracking information just started to show up now. I don't understand how did I got the tracking number before he actually shipped the item??
The item was picked up today afternoon.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I got the tracking number yesterday morning, but the tracking information just started to show up now. I don't understand how did I got the tracking number before he actually shipped the item??
> The item was picked up today afternoon.


That´s just because he prints out the ups/dhl/whatever label, puts it on the box, and sends it to you. In theory he could let the box stand there for a month. You won´t see anything before the courier guy scans it.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Just in case anyone has been following my posts i have been able to push mine to 142hz with ALL kinds of tinkering. I have been using the stock cable doing this as the old dual link newegg cable did not work at all when OC. I have 3 three foot cables on their way from monoprice. All are 3' long as the shorter the better(usually). I want 144hz soooooooo bad for bragging rights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I also want to let you all know even at 142hz these DO NOT FRAME SKIP(tested with refresh rate multitool). i have done lots of gaming and with the games i can run at 120hz(Gfx card limitations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) i have have practically no motion blur or input lag. i have been gaming at 120hz most of the time but also have been doing 140hz but i do see some lines here and there. for those wondering about game experience i have had good experience with every game i have tested so far and i will list them below.
> 
> Blur
> cryostasis
> crysis (had to lower a lot of settings to get 120hz but it does play crysis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> crysis 2 {not as bad)
> crysis 3(almost as bad as 1)
> dead space 1,2,3 (120hz easy on SLI gtx570s)
> Fable lost chapters
> left for dead
> Quake 2 (why not)
> shadowrun (120hz made me damn near unstoppable)
> unreal
> tomb raider
> dragon age
> lost planet
> Halo 2
> prototype
> 
> Hopefully this helps some people but i can really tell you about my experience with shadowrun since it is a very fast pass game. Basically it gives an unfair advantage over most of the guys in there(aside from other 120hz gamers maybe) it just seemed like i have a have second of spidy sense or something and i was not having just a good night as i have been playing off and on for the last week and it is always the same.
> 
> anyways i have gone on enough and will check back in after my cables get here


Thanks for the info. +Rep.








Also have two 570´s but will sell them, ordered two 670 to have better frames in 1440p.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furyau*
> 
> Colour profile has been hard...


What do you mean?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I got the tracking number yesterday morning, but the tracking information just started to show up now. I don't understand how did I got the tracking number before he actually shipped the item??
> The item was picked up today afternoon.


Like I said yesterday, he shipped the item 2 days ago but DHL only now inserted the data on their system


----------



## evilferret

Quick Q, if I'm using a single nvidia card do I need to use the pixel patch?

Hoping I can just use the OC inf and set the resolution in nvidia CP.

Thanks!

Just trying to avoid the watermark if possible.


----------



## furyau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> What do you mean?


Trying to judge it by eye.....guess it would be nice to have a machine..

On another note, with the free cable I can only get 116hz.

Can anyone recommend a high quality DVI-D cable I should try that may offer higher??


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> There are plenty of people who have been running overclocked Dell 2209WA's (probably the most popular overclockable monitor aside from the Catleaps) for 3+ years without issue


Nice, I wasn't aware of that.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> That´s just because he prints out the ups/dhl/whatever label, puts it on the box, and sends it to you. In theory he could let the box stand there for a month. You won´t see anything before the courier guy scans it.


Thanks. I haven't had much experience with international purchases and also with shipping companies to be precise.
Mine was just Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.), how much longer, can't wait.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> i should be getting mine tomorrow (today actually as its night time here), cant wait. I think they are driving that thing up in a truck from Köln cause no updates for a while. What sux however, is that I have to RMA my gfx card on monday so not much playing around for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also with my luck I´m gonna be paying taxes out my ass, especially cause im in Denmark and those tax ****ers catch everything.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Yeah i should get mine too tomorrow we are both from Copenhagen too. And yes i pretty much always have to pay taxes especially when they are shipped with DHL as they are now.
> 
> When i try and track it, the newest info says "Customs status updated" don't know what that's supposed to mean, but anyway good luck with yours, crossing fingers i don't have to pay a big one this time around either.


Please update my on the taxes, customs or whatever it is part! Also did you mark it as a gift or anything special to try to get it through?


----------



## adolf512

I can only oc to 110hz with my hd 5850(in linux), i will try to fix my back-light bleed later, but even with this bleed the contrast is still better than my low resolution benq 2222hdl. at 120hz i get green lines when playing games. i tried the catalyst 13.4 for linux hoping it would solve some issues with the open source drivers but didn't manage to overclock the monitor(it also gave me more issues)

Code:



Code:


ModeLine     "2560x1440"  450.45  2560 2608 2640 2720  1440 1443 1448 1507 -hsync +vsync


----------



## jakubk

So my QNIX has been in Prague for the last six hours according to the FedEx tracker. I have sent them all the customs documents they wanted yesterday but no update yet







I was hoping to get the monitor today but it looks like I will have to wait until Monday or even Tuesday


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> So my QNIX has been in Prague for the last six hours according to the FedEx tracker. I have sent them all the customs documents they wanted yesterday but no update yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was hoping to get the monitor today but it looks like I will have to wait until Monday or even Tuesday


Portuguese Customs took 10 days to release a package I ordered from the States. And I also sent them the documents in the first day it arrived.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Please update my on the taxes, customs or whatever it is part! Also did you mark it as a gift or anything special to try to get it through?


Just received mine. Still setting up. No taxes or nothing wuhu!!!


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Just received mine. Still setting up. No taxes or nothing wuhu!!!


Who did you order from? Got a link for the exact monitor?


----------



## Gilgam3sh

the taxes can take a couple of weeks before you get them... here in Sweden for example, it can take 1-2 weeks before you need to pay the taxes..


----------



## Beatwolf

Yeah I´ll probably get a letter in the mail. Wouldn´t surprise me at all. Anyway its an awesome monitor. Zero dead pixels, good amount of panel play to the right though, and probably a fair amount of backlight bleed, not good at judging that.

Tried patching my drivers and putting it in test mode, but the test mode text doesn´t appear and the max i can choose from windows settings is 60hz, what am I doing wrong? Never overclocked a monitor before lol.

@Lazdaa
Ordered from excellentcastle, shipped monday and arrived today. I think they marked it as 200 dollars but they never asked me about anything just shipped it out.

this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261204411997&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160


----------



## Gilgam3sh

got mine from hulustar, it's on it's way, he marked it $150 and wrote REFURBISHED MONITOR, anyway let's see how my crossfire'd HD7970 will manage 2560x1440


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> got mine from hulustar, it's on it's way, he marked it $150 and wrote REFURBISHED MONITOR, anyway let's see how my crossfire'd HD7970 will manage 2560x1440


I think you will be alright









http://www.anandtech.com/show/6934/choosing-a-gaming-cpu-single-multigpu-at-1440p/5


----------



## Gilgam3sh

btw, is there any meaning running at 120hz if I only get 80-90fps from a game? I mean do I not need 120+ fps? if I use 120hz, should I use V-Sync or not? atm with my Dell [email protected] I have V-Sync on.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> btw, is there any meaning running at 120hz if I only get 80-90fps from a game? I mean do I not need 120+ fps? if I use 120hz, should I use V-Sync or not? atm with my Dell [email protected] I have V-Sync on.


Couldn tell you. Have the same doubts.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> btw, is there any meaning running at 120hz if I only get 80-90fps from a game? I mean do I not need 120+ fps? if I use 120hz, should I use V-Sync or not? atm with my Dell [email protected] I have V-Sync on.


Higher refresh rate can reduce input lag slightly, regardless of FPS. Also having a significantly higher refresh rate than your FPS can significantly reduce _visible_ tearing without v-sync.

So with that in mind, if your panel can do 120 without issues, I'd say go for it, and disable vsync, unless you're one of the _extremely_ sensitive people who absolutely need 0 tearing ever (even I'm not _that_ sensitive).


----------



## Timu

I swear that the backlight bleeding I saw yesterday and earlier this monitor must had completely disappeared right now as I don't see it anywhere! I had a pic of it earlier and now I'm not seeing it in that same spot...my monitor must be magical.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah like I said earlier my 7950 is kind of struggling now in BF3 according to perforverlay (spikey and mostly red numbers) but not so much that it *feels* like its not playable. You may not notice much visual difference anyway even pushing 120 frames; some people better at perceiving such than others. That said it is still worthwhile for the reason(s) mentioned above *plus* it is not really hard on your eyes, at least relative to 60hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> I swear that the backlight bleeding I saw yesterday and earlier this monitor must had completely disappeared right now as I don't see it anywhere! I had a pic of it earlier and now I'm not seeing it in that same spot...my monitor must be magical.


Well...most like it's either brighter in your room now and/or you are viewing at a diff angle. Most of the bleed seems to be caused by a bent-ish metal frame so that couldnt fix itself. Though yours could have had a different cause I suppose.


----------



## Beatwolf

Ok finally found out how to overclock the monitor. 96hz seems to be ok 120hz I get lines in the game i tried. Otherwise its an awesome monitor!

would one of these do it?:

http://www.av-cables.dk/dvi-d-kabler/hometheater-high-quality-dvi-d-kabel-1-5-m.html

or the more expensive

http://www.av-cables.dk/dvi-d-kabler/clicktronic-dvi-d-dual-link-kabel-2-m.html

Does anybody elses QNIX point downwards a bit? Might try to mount my old samsung stand...


----------



## jakubk

My FedEx tracking page has just been updated, now it says "International shipment release - Import". I googled this line and some people say that it means it's now on it's way to a depot nearest to my place. If that's true, it means that it only took 9 hours to pass customs, weird.

EDIT: Holy *****, I've just received a text from FedEx saying that the parcel has passed the customs process and the total taxes I have to pay are $150. So the total price for the monitor is $309 + $150. It better be worth the price!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well based on the prices of 60hz Shimians and the like I would say it is worth it...but that still obviously blows.

Matte has really overtaken glossy in the poll now!


----------



## Timu

Funny enough I saw backlight bleeding in the day time yesterday and earlier this morning where it's still sunny and I only see it mainly when I look at the monitor while standing up. In the same spot where it usually is I haven't seen it recently. I do wonder if it'll come back, but right now it hasn't. Some pic comparisons:


----------



## crimelol

As far as I'm aware, I can go 120hz just fine, but I didn't notice a difference so I just dropped to 96 to lower wear on the monitor. The only noticeable backlight bleed is on the top right corner where it's a bit flimsy and the bottom middle has light come about an inch up the monitor. Otherwise it's good.

Just to be sure, to overclock you add a custom resolution in NVidia manager set to 120hz and that's all there is to it? I also applied the patch fix a few pages back too.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> My FedEx tracking page has just been updated, now it says "International shipment release - Import". I googled this line and some people say that it means it's now on it's way to a depot nearest to my place. If that's true, it means that it only took 9 hours to pass customs, weird.
> 
> EDIT: Holy *****, I've just received a text from FedEx saying that the parcel has passed the customs process and the total taxes I have to pay are $150. So the total price for the monitor is $309 + $150. It better be worth the price!


Most of that taxes are from FedEx and nothing else. That's why I believe that we should avoid using FedEx, DHL. EMS seems to be cheaper because they have agreements with national post offices


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimelol*
> 
> As far as I'm aware, I can go 120hz just fine, but I didn't notice a difference so I just dropped to 96 to lower wear on the monitor. The only noticeable backlight bleed is on the top right corner where it's a bit flimsy and the bottom middle has light come about an inch up the monitor. Otherwise it's good.
> 
> Just to be sure, to overclock you add a custom resolution in NVidia manager set to 120hz and that's all there is to it? I also applied the patch fix a few pages back too.


No if you set the custom res in the NV panel instead of using the Custom Resolution Utility you also need the Catleap 2B INF so games know to use higher refresh. CRU handles that part too though...


----------



## adolf512

i bough got mine a weak ago and i still haven't got any taxes, it arrived wrapped in two layers of plastic without anything about price, how large is the probability that i have escaped the 25% vat(sweden)?


----------



## crimelol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No if you set the custom res in the NV panel instead of using the Custom Resolution Utility you also need the Catleap 2B INF so games know to use higher refresh. CRU handles that part too though...


Oh. I tried testing on League of Legends and it was showing 96 and 120 fps for each custom resolution that I set in NV with V-sync on.

Still need this Custom Resolution Utiility though?


----------



## Zero4549

So... I'm curious. The only game I've played since I got the panel has been Guild Wars 2. The in-game FPS counter shows my FPS as high as 98 at times. This is running the panel at 96hz. I did the overclocking entirely through nvidia control panel with no patching or custom drivers or anything...

Is GW2 just an exception to the rule that games require the catleap INF or overclocking via CRU instead of nvidia control panel?


----------



## Mehdi

As a gamer, should I be worried about a 1440p @ 120hz monitor? If I can't reach those resolutions with 120hz at good FPS... i imagine I would want to drop the resolution, right?


----------



## munaim1

Hmmmmm.... anyone heard of DGM? Cosmetically it looks exactly like the QNIX, quick glance at the specs and it seem to be 1440P and an IPS not PLS....









http://www.play.com/PC/PCs/4-/35975618/725721955/DGM-IPS-2701WPH-27-inch-Widescreen-IPS-Monitor/ListingDetails.html?_%24ja=tsid:11518%7Ccat:35975618%7Cprd:35975618 *£350 - UK seller and I believe it has 3 years warranty*

*Overclockers UK also stock the item with 3 years warranty but at £380.*


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimelol*
> 
> Oh. I tried testing on League of Legends and it was showing 96 and 120 fps for each custom resolution that I set in NV with V-sync on.
> 
> Still need this Custom Resolution Utiility though?


Uh apparently not...and you didn't need the utility anyway. Only if you couldn't find that INF or didn't want to bother. But somehow your games already acting properly so you appear to be all good. For others was not the case; locking at 60 still. Don't think the game matters but not sure...


----------



## falco216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Hmmmmm.... anyone heard of DGM? Cosmetically it looks exactly like the QNIX, quick glance at the specs and it seem to be 1440P and an IPS not PLS....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.play.com/PC/PCs/4-/35975618/725721955/DGM-IPS-2701WPH-27-inch-Widescreen-IPS-Monitor/ListingDetails.html?_%24ja=tsid:11518%7Ccat:35975618%7Cprd:35975618 *£350 - UK seller and I believe it has 3 years warranty*
> 
> *Overclockers UK also stock the item with 3 years warranty but at £380.*


It seems like a pretty standard 1440p screen, the advantage of the Qnix is the PCB allows you to overclock, this one probably doesn't...

Googling the monitor it seems that it's just a Crossover 2720MDP re-brand though.


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mehdi*
> 
> As a gamer, should I be worried about a 1440p @ 120hz monitor? If I can't reach those resolutions with 120hz at good FPS... i imagine I would want to drop the resolution, right?


I don't think you can run these monitors at anything other than 2560x1440, but you shouldn't do it even if it was possible. Either run the game at lower settings or upgrade your GPU or just live with lower fps in the more demanding games.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falco216*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Hmmmmm.... anyone heard of DGM? Cosmetically it looks exactly like the QNIX, quick glance at the specs and it seem to be 1440P and an IPS not PLS....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.play.com/PC/PCs/4-/35975618/725721955/DGM-IPS-2701WPH-27-inch-Widescreen-IPS-Monitor/ListingDetails.html?_%24ja=tsid:11518%7Ccat:35975618%7Cprd:35975618 *£350 - UK seller and I believe it has 3 years warranty*
> 
> *Overclockers UK also stock the item with 3 years warranty but at £380.*
> 
> 
> 
> It seems like a pretty standard 1440p screen, the advantage of the Qnix is the PCB allows you to overclock, this one probably doesn't...
> 
> Googling the monitor it seems that it's just a Crossover 2720MDP re-brand though.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm... Thanks for the reply. I think I'm looking into this too much. I'll just stick to the QNIX







Hopefully I'll be ordering one in the next few days.


----------



## Mehdi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> I don't think you can run these monitors at anything other than 2560x1440, but you shouldn't do it even if it was possible. Either run the game at lower settings or upgrade your GPU or just live with lower fps in the more demanding games.


Really? Is that really the best option in such a scenario? I need to reconsider if that's the case I guess.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Hmmmm... Thanks for the reply. I think I'm looking into this too much. I'll just stick to the QNIX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'll be ordering one in the next few days.


Be a rebel, buy an X-Star


----------



## crimelol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Uh apparently not...and you didn't need the utility anyway. Only if you couldn't find that INF or didn't want to bother. But somehow your games already acting properly so you appear to be all good. For others was not the case; locking at 60 still. Don't think the game matters but not sure...


Cool, thanks man.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Hmmmm... Thanks for the reply. I think I'm looking into this too much. I'll just stick to the QNIX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'll be ordering one in the next few days.
> 
> 
> 
> Be a rebel, buy an X-Star
Click to expand...

Both are the same aren't they?









*EDIT:*

Actually *this* X-Star Perfect pixel is quite appealing


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Be a rebel, buy an X-Star


Lol!!! I felt the same way when I ordered the x-star


----------



## mspamed

BTW, I live in India and the seller is from south Korea, then why the hell is my track in g status, custom cleared - location Hong Kong ???


----------



## falco216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Both are the same aren't they?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:*
> 
> Actually *this* X-Star Perfect pixel is quite appealing


The official specs say that the Qnix is a 6ms GtG panel and the X-Star is a 8ms GtG panel, probably the biggest reason why people buy the Qnix.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Both are the same aren't they?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:*
> 
> Actually *this* X-Star Perfect pixel is quite appealing


As far as anyone knows, yeah, they're the same thing. Mine is great (X-star matte)







.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falco216*
> 
> The official specs say that the Qnix is a 6ms GtG panel and the X-Star is a 8ms GtG panel, probably the biggest reason why people buy the Qnix.


Nope that's actually the information on eBay items, the official specs are 8ms for both the monitors.


----------



## falco216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Nope that's actually the information on eBay items, the official specs are 8ms for both the monitors.


Link to official specs? I can't navigate the Qnix website (It's in Korean).


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> I don't think you can run these monitors at anything other than 2560x1440, but you shouldn't do it even if it was possible. Either run the game at lower settings or upgrade your GPU or just live with lower fps in the more demanding games.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mehdi*
> 
> Really? Is that really the best option in such a scenario? I need to reconsider if that's the case I guess.


Yeah as I've said I'm at 96Hz and not even getting 60 (average 40 probably) in BF3 and it doesn't feel unplayable nor is there anything weird happening. But sure I already want a more powerful GPU.









Definitely do not want to run at lower res; looks like crap and may as well have bought a name brand 1080P 120Hz.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *falco216*
> 
> The official specs say that the Qnix is a 6ms GtG panel and the X-Star is a 8ms GtG panel, probably the biggest reason why people buy the Qnix.
> 
> 
> 
> Nope that's actually the information on eBay items, the official specs are 8ms for both the monitors.
Click to expand...

Tested input lag: 6.3ms (avg). source: http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/53718_4/Korejskij_demping_v_nishe_PLS_reshenij._Obzor_i_testirovanie_monitora_QNIX_QX2710.html#15


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falco216*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Nope that's actually the information on eBay items, the official specs are 8ms for both the monitors.
> 
> 
> 
> Link to official specs? I can't navigate the Qnix website (It's in Korean).
Click to expand...

http://q-nix.co.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=notice&wr_id=17

Google translate, or even without translating read the portion where it says 6ms (GtG) (grey to grey)


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Hmmmmm.... anyone heard of DGM? Cosmetically it looks exactly like the QNIX, quick glance at the specs and it seem to be 1440P and an IPS not PLS....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.play.com/PC/PCs/4-/35975618/725721955/DGM-IPS-2701WPH-27-inch-Widescreen-IPS-Monitor/ListingDetails.html?_%24ja=tsid:11518%7Ccat:35975618%7Cprd:35975618 *£350 - UK seller and I believe it has 3 years warranty*
> 
> *Overclockers UK also stock the item with 3 years warranty but at £380.*


Looks like another rebrand of the monoprice monitor. Same casing, IPS, different brand name


----------



## Beatwolf

So how bad would you say this backlight bleeding is:

http://i43.tinypic.com/2z4idfl.jpg

It does look somewhat worse on the pic though. Btw so far stable at 100hz.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falco216*
> 
> Link to official specs? I can't navigate the Qnix website (It's in Korean).


Thhe owners have reported that its 8ms in the manuals that come with the monitor.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> http://q-nix.co.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=notice&wr_id=17
> 
> Google translate, or even without translating read the portion where it says 6ms (GtG) (grey to grey)


For some reason the page is unavailable at the moment.
But knowing that the official statement says 6 ms makes me regret getting a x-star. Thought when I purchased all the qnix sellers were asking for 50$ for shipping.

Edit: check this post out
http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/790#post_19821290


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So how bad would you say this backlight bleeding is:
> 
> http://i43.tinypic.com/2z4idfl.jpg
> 
> It does look somewhat worse on the pic though. Btw so far stable at 100hz.


I would say not too bad at all, really. I got one really pretty bright spot on the left of two in the middleish (like on either side of the QNIX name on the bezel) as well as similar top right corner to you. Not super long nor stretching very high but bright enough that it does not need to be even close to full black to see it in games, unfortunately. Figure got a real bend in the frame there or something along those lines.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Tested input lag: 6.3ms (avg). source: http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/53718_4/Korejskij_demping_v_nishe_PLS_reshenij._Obzor_i_testirovanie_monitora_QNIX_QX2710.html#15


Input lag is different than response time, the 8ms spec is still correct.


----------



## Lazdaa

So what you guys are saying is that there a no difference between the Qnix and the X-Star?

I thought that the Qnix had the 6ms advantage over the X-star's 8ms. Is this not true then?


----------



## Lazdaa

EDIT: Double post


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Tested input lag: 6.3ms (avg). source: http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/53718_4/Korejskij_demping_v_nishe_PLS_reshenij._Obzor_i_testirovanie_monitora_QNIX_QX2710.html#15
> 
> 
> 
> Input lag is different than response time, the 8ms spec is still correct.
Click to expand...

Unless that is a tested number and not just a spec off an ebay listing, I would say it is not true. The official spec is 6ms (GtG)

Official qnix website:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> http://q-nix.co.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=notice&wr_id=17
> 
> Google translate, or even without translating read the portion where it says 6ms (GtG) (grey to grey)


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> So what you guys are saying is that there a no difference between the Qnix and the X-Star?
> 
> I thought that the Qnix had the 6ms advantage over the X-star's 8ms. Is this not true then?


Ebay listing descriptions are not to always be believed as the truth. Sellers want to sell, not be scientists








Unless there is a test done on both monitors, we have to believe the official website specs, i guess. That being said, I have been unable to find the x-star official website. As of now, the X-star is believed to be identical in exception for a different brand name.


----------



## dir_d

As far as i know the X-Star and Qnix are the SAME MONITOR. Same panel, same switch board that is replaced by the sellers in them, only difference is the name on the front, other than that the cases are the same.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Okay so i got my QNIX QX2710 in the mail earlier today and i've been fidling with the settings to overclock and ICC profiles. But i have a problem i hope some of you might be able to help with.

The monitor overclocks fine up and past 120hz, the only weird problem i'm facing is that whenever i have anything over that standard 60hz my graphics card Memory clock and Core clock goes all the way up and the temperature reaches a whoping 60C at idle. I've had similar issues once with eyefinity with the idle temperature but that was because it was 3 displays and it uses a lot more resources. But this shouldn't happen since it's a single monitor. Someone please help!


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Okay so i got my QNIX QX2710 in the mail earlier today and i've been fidling with the settings to overclock and ICC profiles. But i have a problem i hope some of you might be able to help with.
> 
> The monitor overclocks fine up and past 120hz, the only weird problem i'm facing is that whenever i have anything over that standard 60hz my graphics card Memory clock and Core clock goes all the way up and the temperature reaches a whoping 60C at idle. I've had similar issues once with eyefinity with the idle temperature but that was because it was 3 displays and it uses a lot more resources. But this shouldn't happen since it's a single monitor. Someone please help!


Sounds like you card is stuck in 3d mode. It should go to low power state at idle, like 500mhz or somewhere around there check that out with MSI AB or another monitoring program.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dir_d*
> 
> Sounds like you card is stuck in 3d mode. It should go to low power state at idle, like 500mhz or somewhere around there check that out with MSI AB or another monitoring program.


Yeah i am using MSI Afterburner, i tried setting my 2D and 3D setups so when it's at idle it has lower clock speed, but it just doesn't want to go lower than the preset i set for 2D which the lowest i can set it too is 685Mhz memory clock it just want to stay at the highest possible clock at all times for some weird reason.

Edit: It must be some kind of bug because no matter how low i set the resolution it keeps the same clock speeds, it's only when i lower the refresh rate it goes down for example at 60hz the clock speeds go to 250/150Mhz and 39C . That's so weird


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Unless that is a tested number and not just a spec off an ebay listing, I would say it is not true. The official spec is 6ms (GtG)


The input lag number was obtained using the SMT Tool to test the Qnix vs. a CRT @60hz. The SMT Tool has it's issues, especially when testing a high res display against a CRT (have to use a non-native resolution) but the number should be close. PRAD used an oscilloscope to measure the signal delay of a few similar dual-link dvi only models (Hazro=Shimian and HP ZR2740W) and their results are similar.

Dual-link DVI only models have 5-7ms delays vs. 14-19ms for models with extra inputs. There are a few exceptions such as some 2,000$+ Eizo's and the ViewSonic VP2770 which have low (7ms) signal delays.


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> The monitor overclocks fine up and past 120hz, the only weird problem i'm facing is that whenever i have anything over that standard 60hz my graphics card Memory clock and Core clock goes all the way up and the temperature reaches a whoping 60C at idle. I've had similar issues once with eyefinity with the idle temperature but that was because it was 3 displays and it uses a lot more resources. But this shouldn't happen since it's a single monitor. Someone please help!


Actually 2560x1440 @120Hz uses about 18% more bandwidth than 5760x1080 @60Hz. So maybe the higher 2D clock is necessary.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> Actually 2560x1440 @120Hz uses about 18% more bandwidth than 5760x1080 @60Hz. So maybe the higher 2D clock is necessary.


Possibly but it's regardless of refresh rate as long as it's over 60hz it starts doing that, i don't know if it's a driver bug it's not a huge problem but it's definitely annoying







I have searched a bit on it and it seems i'm not alone on this http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=377464 here is someone with pretty much the same thing just a newer model.


----------



## slh28

Maybe it detects anything above 60Hz as multi-monitor and applies the higher 2D clocks?

Being in a CF sandwich my top GPU always runs at 60C at idle over multiple screens so I've kinda got used to it heh.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> Maybe it detects anything above 60Hz as multi-monitor and applies the higher 2D clocks?
> 
> Being in a CF sandwich my top GPU always runs at 60C at idle over multiple screens so I've kinda got used to it heh.


Yeah i guess i'll just have to get used to it as i said it's not a huge problem i can always just set a different fan profile so the noise isn't annoying me too much. But yeah anyways really awesome monitor i will post some pictures and stuff in a moment for the heck of it


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Right so here is an update on my QNIX QX2710 Matte monitor, and let me start by saying this thing is HUGE well especially when coming from a 23" generic TN monitor at 1920x1080. There is no dead/stuck pixels VERY minimal backlight bleed i will actually say it has less bleed than my other monitor. Also the stand is crap like others have mentioned but you can always upgrade to a VESA mount, which i might do.

It overclocks easy to 120hz though it does make my clock speed rev up quite a bit on idle, still don't know if that's a driver issue or just because of the refresh rate/resolution. I will be using 96hz because it seems to be the most stable in terms of gamma and overall look, though there is ICC profiles for 120hz i couldn't really find any that fit my display properly.

i will also note that i didn't have to pay VAT/import duties, i ordered from green-sum Sunday May 5th and recieved it Friday May 10th total price was only 309$ so i couldn't be happier actually









Here is some pictures:
     
Sorry for the terrible quality was taken from my iphone

also the backlight bleed looks much worse than it really is, the yellow isn't even there when you look at it with the naked eye in total darkness.


----------



## Alcaro

I came from a 19" at 1440x900. I've been trying to play games on this thing and I can't track half of what's going on right now haha.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> My FedEx tracking page has just been updated, now it says "International shipment release - Import". I googled this line and some people say that it means it's now on it's way to a depot nearest to my place. If that's true, it means that it only took 9 hours to pass customs, weird.
> 
> EDIT: Holy *****, I've just received a text from FedEx saying that the parcel has passed the customs process and the total taxes I have to pay are $150. So the total price for the monitor is $309 + $150. It better be worth the price!


1/2 of the price in monitor in taxes!?
*Fedex*














*You*


----------



## crimelol

Has anyone had any luck with the ICC profiles? I followed the steps on the TFT link but when I enable the new color profile, it will briefly change my monitor but then a few seconds later it changes back to what it was.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Can't say I'm familiar with that behavior...assume you are hitting "Set as default" to enable? Does anything in the other tabs jump out at you? Try Googling too; some designers or photographers probably had this issue at some point.


----------



## sb62

Experimented with OC'ing my 2710 yesterday. Well the amd pixel patcher worked in test mode on win7 64 but I lost some functionality in video playback on wmp. Tried running non test mode and got BSOD.
I couldn't run 120hz lcd reduced without scan lines. Might try a better cable. I didn't like what the patcher did to my system though. I want my video player to work. There's got to be a better way to force refresh rates.


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Yeah i am using MSI Afterburner, i tried setting my 2D and 3D setups so when it's at idle it has lower clock speed, but it just doesn't want to go lower than the preset i set for 2D which the lowest i can set it too is 685Mhz memory clock it just want to stay at the highest possible clock at all times for some weird reason.
> 
> Edit: It must be some kind of bug because no matter how low i set the resolution it keeps the same clock speeds, it's only when i lower the refresh rate it goes down for example at 60hz the clock speeds go to 250/150Mhz and 39C . That's so weird


mine does something similar

I have 7950 xfire and I get

both cards
@60hz core clock 300mhz
mem clock 150mhz
gpu1 gpu2
@121hz core clock 450mhz core clock 300mhz
mem clock 1500mhz mem clock 150mhz


----------



## crimelol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Can't say I'm familiar with that behavior...assume you are hitting "Set as default" to enable? Does anything in the other tabs jump out at you? Try Googling too; some designers or photographers probably had this issue at some point.


http://i.imgur.com/KcKEThw.jpg

Yeah I'm clicking "Set as default profile" and it sets it, I can tell because my colors get cooler but then ~2 seconds later it jumps back to warmer colors.

Google is saying it could be other programs causing it to happen.


----------



## Methadras

Well, I finally got the monitors. UPS dropped them off with no signatures, but luckily my wife was there to receive them. So now I have a slight dilemma. I need to know if a GTX590 can drive both of these monitors at 1440p?

Does anyone know or have a setup like that? Thanks.


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimelol*
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/KcKEThw.jpg
> 
> Yeah I'm clicking "Set as default profile" and it sets it, I can tell because my colors get cooler but then ~2 seconds later it jumps back to warmer colors.
> 
> Google is saying it could be other programs causing it to happen.


Are you using f.lux? That was causing problems for me.


----------



## crimelol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Are you using f.lux? That was causing problems for me.


That was it! Thanks! Now I'll have to get used to life without f.lux.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ah BF3 is freaking gor-JUS on this display (calibrated!). I just wish I could run more than 2x MSAA. The increased pixel density is a help but still kind of a jaggy mess at a distance (like looking at a collection of structures from afar) also thinner lines like fences and cranes are not so purty. But overall it's a joy to behold now. Even little things like the sharper and tighter text on the HUD is nice. Coming from 1200P and 4x MSAA...


----------



## wntrsnowg

I've never heard of f.lux before. Such an interesting idea


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Right so here is an update on my QNIX QX2710 Matte monitor, and let me start by saying this thing is HUGE well especially when coming from a 23" generic TN monitor at 1920x1080. There is no dead/stuck pixels VERY minimal backlight bleed i will actually say it has less bleed than my other monitor. Also the stand is crap like others have mentioned but you can always upgrade to a VESA mount, which i might do.
> 
> It overclocks easy to 120hz though it does make my clock speed rev up quite a bit on idle, still don't know if that's a driver issue or just because of the refresh rate/resolution. I will be using 96hz because it seems to be the most stable in terms of gamma and overall look, though there is ICC profiles for 120hz i couldn't really find any that fit my display properly.
> 
> i will also note that i didn't have to pay VAT/import duties, i ordered from green-sum Sunday May 5th and recieved it Friday May 10th total price was only 309$ so i couldn't be happier actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some pictures:
> 
> Sorry for the terrible quality was taken from my iphone
> 
> also the backlight bleed looks much worse than it really is, the yellow isn't even there when you look at it with the naked eye in total darkness.


Congrats! Now there are at least two danes with this monitor







The taxes might still be added though via a letter, as someone said earlier. That happened to me once with a camera lens from ebay. Here´s to hoping it doesn´t happen!
Really happy with my monitor, there is some light bleed, apparently not too bad though. No did pixels, and stable at 110hz i think. Might get a new cable and try to clock it further. Its a joy to behold and to game on. Too bad I have to rma my gfx card on monday.. but hey maybe then i can finally finish that damn paper I should be writing


----------



## SDBolts619

Got mine today. Daaaaayum! It's a very pretty picture. Zero dead pixels and only a tiny bit of backlight bleeding that's visible on a black screen. I'm totally stoked. Played a little BF3, Civ5 and Skyrim - all look amazing. My twin GTX 660 Ti's are able to run BF3 at 2560*1440 on Ultra settings with a solid, steady 60fps. Might have to see about overclocking now, but even if this thing didn't overclock a bit, I'd still be very happy.

Sorry, no pix - too busy installing, playing and enjoying!


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> mine does something similar
> 
> I have 7950 xfire and I get
> 
> both cards
> @60hz core clock 300mhz
> mem clock 150mhz
> gpu1 gpu2
> @121hz core clock 450mhz core clock 300mhz
> mem clock 1500mhz mem clock 150mhz


Really weird indeed i tried lowering the resolution to lowest possible with 120hz but no change in clock speeds or temperature. I guess it just doesn't handle high refresh rate too well, even though i've tried eyefinity before with same result but that was a resolution thing and totally understandable since it has to handle 5760x1080 on one card.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> Well, I finally got the monitors. UPS dropped them off with no signatures, but luckily my wife was there to receive them. So now I have a slight dilemma. I need to know if a GTX590 can drive both of these monitors at 1440p?
> 
> Does anyone know or have a setup like that? Thanks.


Yes it can it can run resolutions up to and probably even more than 7680x1600 so it shouldn't be a problem http://www.techspot.com/review/390-triple-monitor-gaming-performance/ this is a little old and the tests are outdated but depending on what you are going to use them for one GTX 590 for 2 2560x1440p screens shouldn't be any problem at all.

Edit: Btw it has three dual-link DVI ports so you could run 3 of them easily.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Congrats! Now there are at least two danes with this monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The taxes might still be added though via a letter, as someone said earlier. That happened to me once with a camera lens from ebay. Here´s to hoping it doesn´t happen!
> Really happy with my monitor, there is some light bleed, apparently not too bad though. No did pixels, and stable at 110hz i think. Might get a new cable and try to clock it further. Its a joy to behold and to game on. Too bad I have to rma my gfx card on monday.. but hey maybe then i can finally finish that damn paper I should be writing


Yeah that would be a bummer if i got a letter about it but either way it's definitely worth the money. Also hate to RMA things takes forever to get done. And mine is stable even up to 144hz but at that point there are blue lines going across the screen at random times.

Also a little annoying is the Core/Memory clock can't handle high refresh rates very well so it idle's very hot at around 55~60C, but at 60hz it's only 34C. But not a huge deal just a bit annoying at first. Haven't tried gaming on it yet but can't wait to try it, though i don't think i can play any games post 2012 on high-ultra but i will upgrade to a GTX 770 when they arrive (and have money for it) or wait until mid-late 2014 and upgrade my whole rig, epecially since the Maxwell architecture arrives there.

Så deeet bar dejligt


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Are you using f.lux? That was causing problems for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimelol*
> 
> That was it! Thanks! Now I'll have to get used to life without f.lux.


Damnit, I thought something was up when that flicker occurred and I couldn't tell the difference between the profiles, lol. That's a shame. I really liked using f.lux. I've found that one of the Samsung S27A850D profiles in the TFT link worked best for me.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Really weird indeed i tried lowering the resolution to lowest possible with 120hz but no change in clock speeds or temperature. I guess it just doesn't handle high refresh rate too well, even though i've tried eyefinity before with same result but that was a resolution thing and totally understandable since it has to handle 5760x1080 on one card.


I am not sure, just guessing, but I feel that it may be due to improper over clocking or some drivers clashing. I believe your graphic card is assuming that a game is running. I read on one of the posts that in some setups you have to install the catleap 2b drivers to be able to play games after over clocking, are you using that method? Can it be causing your gfx card to believe a game is being played? Just some stupid theory of mine


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I am not sure, just guessing, but I feel that it may be due to improper over clocking or some drivers clashing. I believe your graphic card is assuming that a game is running. I read on one of the posts that in some setups you have to install the catleap 2b drivers to be able to play games after over clocking, are you using that method? Can it be causing your gfx card to believe a game is being played? Just some stupid theory of mine


Hmm haven't tried the Catleap inf file yet might try it, also when i look at the identity of the screen it doesn't say QNIX for example or anything like that, but it was like that before i started overclocking it too so i dunno. I use MSI AB and set the 2D/3D presets it's fine if i could just lower it more than 440 Core clock/685 Memory clock.

It might be RTSS that have some applications falsely on 3D mode but i don't think so. There was a crash once when i accidently disabled test mode and had to install the drivers again because of some AMD bug. It's very confusing for sure, not that it's a huge deal unless of course it couldn't play any games but i have tried some Tomb Raider 2013 on 96hz on Ultra runned smoothly and the temps didn't go beyond what they normally would on 60hz 1920x1080 which is around ~78C max.

Edit: but since i don't use nVidia i don't even know if i need to use the Catleab 2b inf file.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Ebay listing descriptions are not to always be believed as the truth. Sellers want to sell, not be scientists
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless there is a test done on both monitors, we have to believe the official website specs, i guess. That being said, I have been unable to find the x-star official website. As of now, the X-star is believed to be identical in exception for a different brand name.


The x-star official site says 8ms
Here is their site link...
http://www.diple.co.kr/
And I believe this is my monitor, the 2710
http://www.diple.co.kr/modules/catalogue/cg_view.html?cc=1115&menu=2&p=1&no=137


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Hmm haven't tried the Catleap inf file yet might try it, also when i look at the identity of the screen it doesn't say QNIX for example or anything like that, but it was like that before i started overclocking it too so i dunno. I use MSI AB and set the 2D/3D presets it's fine if i could just lower it more than 440 Core clock/685 Memory clock.
> 
> It might be RTSS that have some applications falsely on 3D mode but i don't think so. There was a crash once when i accidently disabled test mode and had to install the drivers again because of some AMD bug. It's very confusing for sure, not that it's a huge deal unless of course it couldn't play any games but i have tried some Tomb Raider 2013 on 96hz on Ultra runned smoothly and the temps didn't go beyond what they normally would on 60hz 1920x1080 which is around ~78C max.
> 
> Edit: but since i don't use nVidia i don't even know if i need to use the Catleab 2b inf file.


No the PC doesn't recognize them as qnix or x-star, was mentioned in a previous post.
I still believe its a driver issue, I remember few years ago my E8400 processor was reaching 145°C just after reboot, at no load at all, I never could find the problem but it went away as soon as I reinstalled windows.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> No the PC doesn't recognize them as qnix or x-star, was mentioned in a previous post.
> I still believe its a driver issue, I remember few years ago my E8400 processor was reaching 145°C just after reboot, at no load at all, I never could find the problem but it went away as soon as I reinstalled windows.


Yeah was also what i was thinking initially because it doesn't quite make sense that one monitor does the same thing that it would do if i had triple monitor eyefinity setup which is understandable since it actually has to support much more. Here is a pic of it even though i just told you the problem i just like to show, constant at highest possible clock.

It's just such a hassle to go through drivers and software. Always hated ATI's drivers and the way they set up their stuff always seems more complicated that it needs to be, aanyway thanks for the input, i'll try some stuff out at some point i guess if i can't live with it


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Yes it can it can run resolutions up to and probably even more than 7680x1600 so it shouldn't be a problem http://www.techspot.com/review/390-triple-monitor-gaming-performance/ this is a little old and the tests are outdated but depending on what you are going to use them for one GTX 590 for 2 2560x1440p screens shouldn't be any problem at all.
> 
> Edit: Btw it has three dual-link DVI ports so you could run 3 of them easily.


Yeah, the idea is to play my games on one monitor while email/web/and whatever else is on the other, but I want them both running at max resolution. The only reason I bring it up is because I have a shot of getting a gtx590 for $300 from a buddy so I thought it might be a good deal.


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> Yeah, the idea is to play my games on one monitor while email/web/and whatever else is on the other, but I want them both running at max resolution. The only reason I bring it up is because I have a shot of getting a gtx590 for $300 from a buddy so I thought it might be a good deal.


That's a very good deal indeed, since they use to go for around 1k when they where released at least the EVGA Classified 590, but i will say this though the 590 has some instability problems especially when it comes to overheating quite a lot. Since it's the notorious Fermi architecture, some run just fine though but they had a lot of problems the 590's, at least what i have seen, but for that price you really can't go wrong it still is a very good dual gpu card.

Edit: You could of course wait for the GTX 770/780 which will be announced this month, which will go for about 400$ for the 770 which is also a bit better than the GTX 680 and runs a lot cooler since it has the TITAN cooler on it


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SDBolts619*
> 
> Got mine today. Daaaaayum! It's a very pretty picture. Zero dead pixels and only a tiny bit of backlight bleeding that's visible on a black screen. I'm totally stoked. Played a little BF3, Civ5 and Skyrim - all look amazing. My twin GTX 660 Ti's are able to run BF3 at 2560*1440 on Ultra settings with a solid, steady 60fps. Might have to see about overclocking now, but even if this thing didn't overclock a bit, I'd still be very happy.
> 
> Sorry, no pix - too busy installing, playing and enjoying!


Nice, glad to hear it... I just ordered two 660 Ti cards on a stupid-hot deal (~$350 total after I sell the bundled metro game cards) to carry me to Maxwell... the value proposition was too good in reviews like this: http://www.techspot.com/review/644-nvidia-geforce-titan/page4.html comparing 660 ti SLI with a titan, and unless I went for SLI GTX 780's for $1k-1.2k I wasn't getting more speed than a single Titan anyway. I'm getting my shipment of those on Monday







... can't wait to see if my panel can do 120hz, since it's doing 96hz flawlessly. Mine also seems to have very very little backlight bleed only visible on a black screen, and it's pixel-perfect with the slightest amount of panel play at the very top left and right corners. I can't wait to play at these high refresh rates on this panel... the matte coating is nice and light, and the refresh rate is a noticeable difference, a surprisingly large in my opinion.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Yeah was also what i was thinking initially because it doesn't quite make sense that one monitor does the same thing that it would do if i had triple monitor eyefinity setup which is understandable since it actually has to support much more. Here is a pic of it even though i just told you the problem i just like to show, constant at highest possible clock.
> 
> It's just such a hassle to go through drivers and software. Always hated ATI's drivers and the way they set up their stuff always seems more complicated that it needs to be, aanyway thanks for the input, i'll try some stuff out at some point i guess if i can't live with it


You are welcome 
Also, do let us know if you found a solution.

These sellers have spoiled us. I always expect international purchases to come within a month.
My first such purchase took 25 days, the second one a month and the third never showed up.
But these guys are just too much 
It was picked up from the seller yesterday by dhl and it reached Delhi (capital of India) today at 4am with the status being "custom status updated".
It hasn't been updated since, maybe because its saturday, I might have to wait till monday to get it :-(
Now I am angry why the seller didn't ship it the day or the next day of my purchase...


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> You are welcome
> Also, do let us know if you found a solution.
> 
> These sellers have spoiled us. I always expect international purchases to come within a month.
> My first such purchase took 25 days, the second one a month and the third never showed up.
> But these guys are just too much
> It was picked up from the seller yesterday by dhl and it reached Delhi (capital of India) today at 4am with the status being "custom status updated".
> It hasn't been updated since, maybe because its saturday, I might have to wait till monday to get it :-(
> Now I am angry why the seller didn't ship it the day or the next day of my purchase...


Will do right now i'm off to bed though been an all nighter 6am over here.

Also that f*cking sucks dude, who did you purchase it from? I purchased it from green-sum took 5 days total to get it, also where do you live just to be clear?


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous Inc*
> 
> Will do right now i'm off to bed though been an all nighter 6am over here.
> 
> Also that f*cking sucks dude, who did you purchase it from? I purchased it from green-sum took 5 days total to get it, also where do you live just to be clear?


Purchased from green-sum too, an x-star matte. Today is the forth day. I live in Mumbai, India. Am happy with the shipping time, actually more then happy, just hate having to wait till Monday for something that's so close :-(


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Purchased from green-sum too, an x-star matte. Today is the forth day. I live in Mumbai, India. Am happy with the shipping time, actually more then happy, just hate having to wait till Monday for something that's so close :-(


I know the feeling.... Cheers though, you will enjoy the monitor a lot once it arrives! In a week or so the weekend wait won't feel so important.


----------



## Jboss

I bought a 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable from Monoprice, will report if it helps me getting better than my current 105 hz!


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> I bought a 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable from Monoprice, will report if it helps me getting better than my current 105 hz!


Nice, let us know and good luck!


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Damnit, I thought something was up when that flicker occurred and I couldn't tell the difference between the profiles, lol. That's a shame. I really liked using f.lux. I've found that one of the Samsung S27A850D profiles in the TFT link worked best for me.


I know, I really like flux too but I needed to have more accurate colors. It's not too hard to adapt, just lower down your brightness at night.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> I know the feeling.... Cheers though, you will enjoy the monitor a lot once it arrives! In a week or so the weekend wait won't feel so important.


Thanks mate. Have been dying to play assassins creed 3 and far cry 3. Was too busy to play them.


----------



## jakubk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Purchased from green-sum too, an x-star matte. Today is the forth day. I live in Mumbai, India. Am happy with the shipping time, actually more then happy, just hate having to wait till Monday for something that's so close :-(


I know the feeling mate, my monitor is ready to be delivered but it's Saturday. So right now it is in a depot about 90 kilometres from me instead of being here with me where it belongs


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Right so here is a little update on the problems i ran into with overclocking my monitor i was getting 120/144hz easily but the problem i faced was that the gpu core/memory clock was reving all the way up to max, in other words it was in 3D mode at all times which resulted in very high idle temps about ~60C or so.

But i did find the sinner it is whenever i went over 400Mhz in CRU, and the lowest i could get 120hz was about 460Mhz. It would be so awesome if there was a way for 120hz or even 110hz to be lower than 400Mhz in CRU, even with Automatic - LCD Reduced it isn't quite enough. How frustrating


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Congrats! Now there are at least two danes with this monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The taxes might still be added though via a letter, as someone said earlier. That happened to me once with a camera lens from ebay. Here´s to hoping it doesn´t happen!
> Really happy with my monitor, there is some light bleed, apparently not too bad though. No did pixels, and stable at 110hz i think. Might get a new cable and try to clock it further. Its a joy to behold and to game on. Too bad I have to rma my gfx card on monday.. but hey maybe then i can finally finish that damn paper I should be writing


Hopefully a third one soon!









I'm just not sure whether to get the X-star from green-sum for 309 bucks or the Qnix from bigclothcraft for a bit more at 330 bucks.
Still not fully convinced that they are exactly the same, with the 6vs8ms.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah former f.lux users just manually lower at night like suggested or even could even use a darker ICC at night (tho that might be a bigger pain).


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Hopefully a third one soon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just not sure whether to get the X-star from green-sum for 309 bucks or the Qnix from bigclothcraft for a bit more at 330 bucks.
> Still not fully convinced that they are exactly the same, with the 6vs8ms.


They have the exact same panel part number inside, I thought.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

As far as we really still know they do.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ok here is my desktop at present using the Asus ICC that many like from TFT and at 10 clicks brightness. The color and tone on the background image and the taskbar icons looks pretty good but do others think it is at all too bright or gamma looks a little too high? Like on the dialog box buttons in the middle where there is no clear border on their tops? Or how about the shade of light blue on the Post number in the browser?



Well it looks a little diff in the image but still curious what, if anything, you guys might think.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok here is my desktop at present using the Asus ICC that many like from TFT and at 10 clicks brightness. The color and tone on the background image and the taskbar icons looks pretty good but do others think it is at all too bright or gamma looks a little too high? Like on the dialog box buttons in the middle where there is no clear border on their tops? Or how about the shade of light blue on the Post number in the browser?
> 
> 
> 
> Well it looks a little diff in the image but still curious what, if anything, you guys might think.


Pretty difficult to say something about that from a screenshot. I think you just have to decide for yourself mate.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok here is my desktop at present using the Asus ICC that many like from TFT and at 10 clicks brightness. The color and tone on the background image and the taskbar icons looks pretty good but do others think it is at all too bright or gamma looks a little too high? Like on the dialog box buttons in the middle where there is no clear border on their tops? Or how about the shade of light blue on the Post number in the browser?
> 
> 
> 
> Well it looks a little diff in the image but still curious what, if anything, you guys might think.


The problem here is that the screen shot will appear different on our monitor, since all have a different color profile.
Don't go for perfection just find the one that suits your eyes and forget about it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Hopefully a third one soon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just not sure whether to get the X-star from green-sum for 309 bucks or the Qnix from bigclothcraft for a bit more at 330 bucks.
> Still not fully convinced that they are exactly the same, with the 6vs8ms.


Yeah that scares me too, what if they have a different pcb and what if their overcloacking capacity is different. I have bought the x-star and even though I don't plan to overclock it, I would feel much better knowing I purchased a better equipment.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> I know the feeling mate, my monitor is ready to be delivered but it's Saturday. So right now it is in a depot about 90 kilometers from me instead of being here with me where it belongs


Hahaha, thinking about the waiting time makes time go even slow. Luckily, Carmageddon was ported to android and released, it was free for a day and I ended up playing it al day long, childhood games bring back a lot of memories. Internet is an awesome thing but life without it was worth more living and fulfilling.


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well it looks a little diff in the image but still curious what, if anything, you guys might think.


A screenshot doesn't show how your display looks - a photo of your display would be better - but even that will not show us exactly what you can see.


----------



## lolwatpear

I got mine yesterday. It looks amazing but it has 1 stuck pixel and something that looks unlike a stuck/dead pixel. It's like a blue splotch. It covers more than one pixel and it can't be wiped off. Anyone have any idea what it might be:


----------



## DeadGivaway

Just ordered my "Perfect Pixel" QNIX Matte 27" from Red-Cap on Ebay. When it arrives, assuming everything is on the up-and-up, I'll start an RMA on my Monoprice CrystalPro, which doesn't go past 65Hz. I hope return shipping won't be too much on that, and considering it's only going a few counties over, it shouldn't be. The CrystalPro was about $360 shipped with tax (open box), so my savings will be $(50 - ReturnShip).

For the people who have good OC results:
Can you tell the difference between 96Hz and 110Hz, and what about from 110 to 120+?
Have you gamed for 3+ hours nonstop with the monitor OC'd without any issues?

wrigleyvillain: What up bro, pls check PM.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Just ordered my "Perfect Pixel" QNIX Matte 27" from Red-Cap on Ebay. When it arrives, assuming everything is on the up-and-up, I'll start an RMA on my Monoprice CrystalPro, which doesn't go past 65Hz. I hope return shipping won't be too much on that, and considering it's only going a few counties over, it shouldn't be. The CrystalPro was about $360 shipped with tax (open box), so my savings will be $(50 - ReturnShip).
> 
> For the people who have good OC results:
> Can you tell the difference between 96Hz and 110Hz, and what about from 110 to 120+?
> Have you gamed for 3+ hours nonstop with the monitor OC'd without any issues?
> 
> wrigleyvillain: What up bro, pls check PM.


I'll let you know Monday evening







as far as 96hz vs. higher hopefully! I have been gaming at 96hz no problems though for many hours on my old reliable backup 9600 GSO 384mb card







.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Just ordered my "Perfect Pixel" QNIX Matte 27" from Red-Cap on Ebay. When it arrives, assuming everything is on the up-and-up, I'll start an RMA on my Monoprice CrystalPro, which doesn't go past 65Hz. I hope return shipping won't be too much on that, and considering it's only going a few counties over, it shouldn't be. The CrystalPro was about $360 shipped with tax (open box), so my savings will be $(50 - ReturnShip).
> 
> For the people who have good OC results:
> Can you tell the difference between 96Hz and 110Hz, and what about from 110 to 120+?
> Have you gamed for 3+ hours nonstop with the monitor OC'd without any issues?
> 
> wrigleyvillain: What up bro, pls check PM.


I gamed for an hour or two at 130hz before I sent my 680 lightning in for RMA. I've been running the monitor exclusively at 96hz on my 560ti since then (maybe 2 weeks?). No issues.

I'll see how high I can push it once I get my 680L back, but I'll probably settle on 120hz for the long haul unless I can achieve 144 without issues.

I can't really tell you the difference between 96 and or 120 since I didn't have enough time to play with the more powerful card, but I personally wouldn't bother with 110 unless you never watch 24fps content (pretty much any movie) on the screen.

I can however tell you that 96 is _way_ nicer than 60. Whenever a game starts dropping into the 60-70fps range, it starts feeling like 30-40 used to on my 60hz. It actually shocked me, because I thought certainly my fps must be lower to look so stutters, but I keep checking and it's consistently in the 70s range whenever it starts to _feel_ choppy.

Even at the full vsynced 96 in games where I can achieve that, I can still notice some jerkiness in fast moving scenes, but I suspect that will be a persisting issue until we get 500hz+ screens. 120 should offer some improvement over 96 though. Then again, there is a whole sect of users out there who swear 30 is perfectly smooth and anything more is invisible, so maybe I'm just crazy. (naw, who am I kidding, we all know they're the crazy ones)


----------



## Cwinston

Has anyone else bought one as a 0-2 dead pixel promotion? How did they turn out?

I might get another of these using the same promotion, but I'm afraid of running into stuck pixels again.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I can't really tell you the difference between 96 and or 120 since I didn't have enough time to play with the more powerful card, but I personally wouldn't bother with 110 unless you never watch 24fps content (pretty much any movie) on the screen.
> (naw, who am I kidding, we all know they're the crazy ones)


Interesting. So movies don't look right if you don't run at a multiple of 24Hz?


----------



## brightbus

I went straight to 120 hz no problem. I do wish I had gone with matt over glossy, them reflections! But great monitor noetheless. No dead/stuck pixels


----------



## brightbus

I went straight to 120 hz no problem. Only wish I had gone with matt over glossy, them reflections man! But overall awesome, no dead pixels. Only issue, not completley flush in bottom right corner.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Interesting. So movies don't look right if you don't run at a multiple of 24Hz?


Yeah you get uneven frame times, frame skips, or tearing depending on how the video is encoded / played back.


----------



## crimelol

Has anyone had their monitor go into a sort of test loop before? I was just sitting here browsing and mine went into a loop of test screens like solid colors and colored bar screens. I could still hear the video I had playing, but I had to restart my computer to get it to stop. simply turning the monitor off and on wasn't enough.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Yeah you get uneven frame times, frame skips, or tearing depending on how the video is encoded / played back.


Which of those are noticeable? I haven't noticed anything different going from 60 to 65Hz with the current monitor, or 66Hz on the old Sceptre. Also, what about the old CRTs that would do 75, 80 85Hz, etc?

Are we talking about using something like ReClock to actually send more than 24FPS to the monitor via frame interpolation? If that's what you mean, then yeah 65FPS looks weird for something encoded at 24fps.

Or are we strictly talking about monitor refresh rate?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimelol*
> 
> Has anyone had their monitor go into a sort of test loop before? I was just sitting here browsing and mine went into a loop of test screens like solid colors and colored bar screens. I could still hear the video I had playing, but I had to restart my computer to get it to stop. simply turning the monitor off and on wasn't enough.


Hmm no but one dude on TPU is having sort of similar issues with grey screens and the like. His prob may be the cable or even the power brick tho. I have seen solid colors like red and green flash couple times when first turning on/booting up. Also had similiar behavior when trying another cable borrowed from work (which shipped with a super nice NEC 30" so I figure it's quality). Need to try it again (not that I have any known probs with my stock DVI-D cable).


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Which of those are noticeable? I haven't noticed anything different going from 60 to 65Hz with the current monitor, or 66Hz on the old Sceptre. Also, what about the old CRTs that would do 75, 80 85Hz, etc?
> 
> Are we talking about using something like ReClock to actually send more than 24FPS to the monitor via frame interpolation? If that's what you mean, then yeah 65FPS looks weird for something encoded at 24fps.
> 
> Or are we strictly talking about monitor refresh rate?


They're all noticeable if you're sensitive enough, and if you aren't you might only notice the tearing, or maybe not even that. Strictly talking monitor refresh rates.

To put things into perspective, I'm the kind of person who is highly distracted by 24fps film. It looks like watching a flip book or something. I slightly notice the refresh on CRT screens, and although it's not too consciously distracting, it gives me migraines. I run all my games with true vsync on because even at 96hz with adaptive vsync, the intermittent minor tearing distracts me heavily and gives me eye strain. And even with my brief run at 130hz I could still see the stop-motion effect in fast moving objects and camera pans.

A good number of people however don't notice any of this. Others do notice, but don't mind. Some even prefer it (a good example would be all those people complaining that The Hobbit looks "too real" because it was played at 48hz). I personally am near sighted can't see s**t past about 10 yards without glasses. We all have different eyesight (and hearing for that matter).

I don't really know where you eyes and brain stand on the matter, so the only way to know would be to test for yourself. If you don't visually notice any weirdness and don't suffer any increased eyestrain or headaches, great, you can run at pretty much any refresh you like. If you DO notice a difference, at least now you know why and how to fix it


----------



## Timu

I've also seen red, green, yellow colors flash when I turn on my PC as well, guess I should get a new power supply or DVI-D cable, or both.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Oh man I get eye strain and headaches all the time. If the new monitor does anything to reduce that, I'll be very grateful. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Oh man I get eye strain and headaches all the time. If the new monitor does anything to reduce that, I'll be very grateful. Thanks for the clarification.


Get them more when you use the computer / tv / phone / gameboy / other devices with screens more?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> I've also seen red, green, yellow colors flash when I turn on my PC as well, guess I should get a new power supply or DVI-D cable, or both.


I wouldn't go that far. I am only tried a new cable cause I had one at the office. What happened to this other dude and having to reboot is a different story...at least at this point. I'd prefer it not do that but it may mean nothing.


----------



## Zero4549

The RGB flash right at the very start of bootup is normal. It's just testing that your have a video adapter. The reason you don't see it on other monitors is because they have image processors built in, and they just hide that part from view, where as these have bypass boards and what the card outputs is exactly what you see.


----------



## Beatwolf

So if I can run 100hz is there are reason not too? should I run it at 96hz instead?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So if I can run 100hz is there are reason not too? should I run it at 96hz instead?


96hz will play 24fps content (most movies) cleanly. 100hz will have playback issues as stated in previous posts.

IMO, a 4% drop in total potential FPS is worth it for smoother video playback.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> 96hz will play 24fps content (most movies) cleanly. 100hz will have playback issues as stated in previous posts.
> 
> IMO, a 4% drop in total potential FPS is worth it for smoother video playback.


I watch movies in my 100Hz CRT and dont see any issues


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I watch movies in my 100Hz CRT and dont see any issues


Than you eyes are not able to see a 4 frame pull down effect but that doesn't mean others won't and doesn't mean that having a direct multiple of 24 is not very beneficial.


----------



## crimelol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I wouldn't go that far. I am only tried a new cable cause I had one at the office. What happened to this other dude and having to reboot is a different story...at least at this point. I'd prefer it not do that but it may mean nothing.


I guess when I uninstalled Flux it didn't uninstall correctly and was still kind of running, so when I had the monitor profile running it was causing problems with certain websites or something. I could ctrl+alt+delete and shutdown but I couldn't get the loop to stop.

I was about to leave after I made that first post so I didn't have time to try things. The profile I was running was still giving issue though, so I just deleted it and haven't had a problem yet.

It was the one from this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/500#post_19886135


----------



## leo999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *canislupusan*
> 
> Hello everyone, I recently purchased a 30" Crossover, My question is this: When my monitor is in sleep mode, and when there is silence in the room (late hours) i can hear a light "humming" noise coming from the power brick. Does any of these 2 monitors have a similar issue with the power brick?


My Qnix comes with a TEKA 12V 5A power brick.
It has small high pitched noise audible to me in a quiet room at a distance of 30 cm or closer.
For comparison, my Intel SSD 330 has humming noise audible at 60 cm.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> 96hz will play 24fps content (most movies) cleanly. 100hz will have playback issues as stated in previous posts.
> 
> IMO, a 4% drop in total potential FPS is worth it for smoother video playback.


Ah ok, I don´t watch movies on this monitor, I have a TV for that.. so I guess I´ll stay at 100 and try 120 again with a new cable.


----------



## leo999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimelol*
> 
> Has anyone had their monitor go into a sort of test loop before? I was just sitting here browsing and mine went into a loop of test screens like solid colors and colored bar screens. I could still hear the video I had playing, but I had to restart my computer to get it to stop. simply turning the monitor off and on wasn't enough.


My Qnix displays the test loop for 3 seconds everytime the computer boots.

It also goes into test loop everytime power management asks the monitor to sleep when the computer is still running.
The test loop wakes/returns to Windows properly after any mouse movement.
The monitor turns off properly only when the whole computer is sleeping/suspending/off.

My hardware configuration is non conventional: Intel HD Graphics and single link DVI cable.
I also tried AMD card with dual link DVI cable and the same monitor did not exhibit this strange behaviour.

My suggestion is try another video card and cable.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

BTW the Unengine Valley nature scenes benchmark looks *phenomenal* on my calibrated display...


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Get them more when you use the computer / tv / phone / gameboy / other devices with screens more?


I'm always on the computer when I'm home, so yeah. I'm also one of those people who forget to blink when playing games.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo999*
> 
> My Qnix comes with a TEKA 12V 5A power brick.
> It has small high pitched noise audible to me in a quiet room at a distance of 30 cm or closer.
> For comparison, my Intel SSD 330 has humming noise audible at 60 cm.


I have that issue with my Monoprice monitor. I never got close enough to it to confirm that it was the power brick and not the backlight/pcb/panel. Something I read online said that it was something to do with the backlight and said it's a common issue in lcd screens in general. I did notice it was loudest when the screen was mostly white like with Firefox on my homepage in fullscreen mode. Kinda annoying and the best I figured out for now was to just have music going even really quietly in the background when not gaming or watching movies. You might also try turning the brightness up all the way on the monitor itself and if the noise goes away you can just adjust the brightness back down in your nvidia/catalyst control panel. Supposedly the noise tends to be louder the more you dim the backlight, although this fix didn't work for me with the CrystalPro.


----------



## Ronin1

So in order to OC these monitors (Qnix..etc) do we have to follow the OP overclocking guide or can't we just do it straight from the Nvidia Control Panel. I'am still fairly new at this.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> I'm always on the computer when I'm home, so yeah. I'm also one of those people who forget to blink when playing games.


Well... Start blinking! And drink more water.

Do you game in an otherwise dark room? If so, kiss the "cinematic experience" goodbye and turn on some lights. You want to keep your monitor brightness roughly similar to the ambient light level of your room... Unless you got a glossy screen, in which case you're kind of just screwed.

Gunnar Optics can also be useful, they _do work_ but I'm not sure I can recommend them for the price. Also, the yellow tinted ones _will_ screw up the color on a calibrated monitor.

on the monitor's side of things, calibrating colors and getting a high-as-possible refresh rate and frame rate will be helpful.


----------



## Ronin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronin1*
> 
> So in order to OC these monitors (Qnix..etc) do we have to follow the OP overclocking guide or can't we just do it straight from the Nvidia Control Panel. I'am still fairly new at this.


Just found out doing the guide was the right way to overclocking. Can't just enter "120hz" from the control panel. Also seem to increase fps in games.


----------



## furyau

I can not find "ATI MPEG Video Decoder" in the MCDU decoders....

The default decoded gets a black screen in MCE. AMD Video Decoder and AMD MJPEG Decoder both get Decoder error.

Any ideas for what else I can try to get MCE working? thanks


----------



## miket5au

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furyau*
> 
> I can not find "ATI MPEG Video Decoder" in the MCDU decoders....
> 
> The default decoded gets a black screen in MCE. AMD Video Decoder and AMD MJPEG Decoder both get Decoder error.
> 
> Any ideas for what else I can try to get MCE working? thanks


What version of Windows? I use shark007 codecs for Win7 or Win8 (there are about 6 computers in my house running either Win 7 or Win 8 and Media Centre is working on all of them including with my QNix).

http://shark007.net/


----------



## Jboss

96 hz is better than 105 hz right? For the sake of being able to watch movies and what not right?


----------



## furyau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miket5au*
> 
> What version of Windows? I use shark007 codecs for Win7 or Win8 (there are about 6 computers in my house running either Win 7 or Win 8 and Media Centre is working on all of them including with my QNix).
> 
> http://shark007.net/


I use K - Lite, shouldn't really be a difference?

Did you use the MCDU to change the video decoder? Or are you saying that Shark007 default just works?

Do you have a AMD GFX with patched driver for overclocking hz?


----------



## miket5au

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furyau*
> 
> I use K - Lite, shouldn't really be a difference?
> 
> Did you use the MCDU to change the video decoder? Or are you saying that Shark007 default just works?
> 
> Do you have a AMD GFX with patched driver for overclocking hz?


The shark007 defaults work fine for me. I do have a Radeon 5870 but I have not patched the driver and am not overclocking.

I have not used MCDU to change decoders since I switched to using the shark007 codec pack and its setup program. On my PC it works with the default settings (sound is either headphones or the QNix speakers - which are not very good). On my Media centre PC I have to play with the setttings but that is because it needs to work without expert intervention and with a remote and is connected to an Amp via HDMI).

When it is not working it can be a real pain to get right. I normally debug with Windows Media Player as that usually gives more information about the problem..


----------



## furyau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miket5au*
> 
> The shark007 defaults work fine for me. I do have a Radeon 5870 but I have not patched the driver and am not overclocking.
> 
> I have not used MCDU to change decoders since I switched to using the shark007 codec pack and its setup program. On my PC it works with the default settings (sound is either headphones or the QNix speakers - which are not very good). On my Media centre PC I have to play with the setttings but that is because it needs to work without expert intervention and with a remote and is connected to an Amp via HDMI).
> 
> When it is not working it can be a real pain to get right. I normally debug with Windows Media Player as that usually gives more information about the problem..


Yeah its one of the known issues with patching the driver.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

However the known fix....does not work.

It seems outdated and not up to speed with Win8 + AMD Cat 12.5b2

Its fine without patching the driver....argh. I think I will just go to WinFast PVR2 though MCE has a much nicer interface.


----------



## Beatwolf

Yesterday after having my browser open (and actively using it) for an hour or two, I booted up Dishonored, in the top right corner and some to the left there was image retentention or burn-in from my browser! This was when i had the monitor at 100hz. Went to sleep and turned the monitor off. It´s gone today. Has anyone had this issue?


----------



## MrGreenankle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Yesterday after having my browser open (and actively using it) for an hour or two, I booted up Dishonored, in the top right corner and some to the left there was image retentention or burn-in from my browser! This was when i had the monitor at 100hz. Went to sleep and turned the monitor off. It´s gone today. Has anyone had this issue?


Yeah, some people have talked about it. It hasn't been permanent for anybody though, so it shouldn't be too dangerous.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah it's not burn-in in the traditional sense.

As for the guy asking if 96 is better than 100 for movies apparently multiples of 24 are best but give it a shot. If you notice nothing weird then fine.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> Yeah, some people have talked about it. It hasn't been permanent for anybody though, so it shouldn't be too dangerous.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah it's not burn-in in the traditional sense.
> 
> As for the guy asking if 96 is better than 100 for movies apparently multiples of 24 are best but give it a shot. If you notice nothing weird then fine.


ok, kind of scary though :rolleyes Hope it won´t be an issue, since I only had the browser open for two hours, and the "burn-in" was pretty visible in game, and now that I´ve tried gaming at more than 60hz I don´t want to go back


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> ok, kind of scary though :rolleyes Hope it won´t be an issue, since I only had the browser open for two hours, and the "burn-in" was pretty visible in game, and now that I´ve tried gaming at more than 60hz I don´t want to go back


All i can say regarding this is screensaver maybe? I mean burn-in has been around for quite a while with monitors of any kind. If OCing makes it a bit more sensitive to it then try a shorter time out for a screen saver. I have seen a bit of burn-in when i was remotely working(Which disables the screen saver)


----------



## DeadGivaway

Assuming a given monitor hits 120Hz, and that the game can do constant 120fps, does that mean one could use the Nvidia 3D Vision kit and do 3d gaming at 1440p?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Assuming a given monitor hits 120Hz, and that the game can do constant 120fps, does that mean one could use the Nvidia 3D Vision kit and do 3d gaming at 1440p?


I second this question. I did see where someone posted elsewhere in the forum on how to trick the nvidia setting on in the control panel for none 3D enable 120hz monitor can anyone help me out?


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I second this question. I did see where someone posted elsewhere in the forum on how to trick the nvidia setting on in the control panel for none 3D enable 120hz monitor can anyone help me out?


There is a thread on 120hz.net where some people were trying to get 3d vision working on a 120hz catleap.

Even if you could get it working I couldn't imagine it working very well. I love these displays and all too but the response time is much slower than a TN panel. You would see some serious crosstalk.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Assuming a given monitor hits 120Hz, and that the game can do constant 120fps, does that mean one could use the Nvidia 3D Vision kit and do 3d gaming at 1440p?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I second this question. I did see where someone posted elsewhere in the forum on how to trick the nvidia setting on in the control panel for none 3D enable 120hz monitor can anyone help me out?


The short answer is no. NVidia 3Dvision does not work and no one has gotten it to work.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> There is a thread on 120hz.net where some people were trying to get 3d vision working on a 120hz catleap.
> 
> Even if you could get it working I couldn't imagine it working very well. I love these displays and all too but the response time is much slower than a TN panel. You would see some serious crosstalk.


Well after reading through this posted thread i have been completely and utterly convinced that 3D on the Qnix or catleap is NOT going to happen(at least perfectly or worth it)


----------



## leo999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> I have that issue with my Monoprice monitor. I never got close enough to it to confirm that it was the power brick and not the backlight/pcb/panel. Something I read online said that it was something to do with the backlight and said it's a common issue in lcd screens in general. I did notice it was loudest when the screen was mostly white like with Firefox on my homepage in fullscreen mode. Kinda annoying and the best I figured out for now was to just have music going even really quietly in the background when not gaming or watching movies. You might also try turning the brightness up all the way on the monitor itself and if the noise goes away you can just adjust the brightness back down in your nvidia/catalyst control panel. Supposedly the noise tends to be louder the more you dim the backlight, although this fix didn't work for me with the CrystalPro.


Yeah, noise level is always relative to the background.
The power brick from Qnix is relatively quiet when compared to other running computer parts.

If the noise changes in response to the displayed contents, dynamic contrast ratio control might be into play.

I got a TN monitor which has noisy CCFL PWM back light.
The noise can become inaudible at certain brightness settings, with dynamic contrast ratio off of course.
I cannot remember the exact numbers but they are inverse of some intergers, e.g. 100% 66-67% 50% 33% 25% 20%.

In many other electronics, noise is just there persistently no matter what.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Well after reading through this posted thread i have been completely and utterly convinced that 3D on the Qnix or catleap is NOT going to happen(at least perfectly or worth it)


I don't know why people go for nvidia 3d?
Do you guys remember the burnout paradise game? The only game of the burnout series tohave been released on the PC.
It had 3d built in or may be I had used a mod, as far as I remember I had used the cyan and red glasses to get 3d working on my 60 hz monitor. It looked great but it gave me serious headaches. It wasn't the settings or choppiness, I get headaches even when I watch a 3d movie in a theater like the imax adlabs.
Maybe we can't get nvidia 3d vision but we can definitely get 3d. We don't need 120 even 98 or 60 should be fine.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I don't know why people go for nvidia 3d?
> Do you guys remember the burnout paradise game? The only game of the burnout series tohave been released on the PC.
> It had 3d built in or may be I had used a mod, as far as I remember I had used the cyan and red glasses to get 3d working on my 60 hz monitor. It looked great but it gave me serious headaches. It wasn't the settings or choppiness, I get headaches even when I watch a 3d movie in a theater like the imax adlabs.
> Maybe we can't get nvidia 3d vision but we can definitely get 3d. We don't need 120 even 98 or 60 should be fine.


I have a real good friend who is an Optometrist and he explained me that people who have headaches when watching 3D have some dificulty with focusing, even if they never realize it and that it´s perfectly treatable with some therapy / exercices.

"Approximately ten percent of people don't have true depth perception to begin with..." - SOURCE: http://www.brightsideofnews.com/news/2011/7/27/analysis-can-3d-glasses-induce-headache.aspx


----------



## BababooeyHTJ

3d vision was rough on my eyes at first too. It is with most people. Now I can handle depth that I couldn't imagine using when I first started using 3d vision.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah ok so far that Asus ICC from TFTentral is the best one yet...but at 120Hz. Any lower is too bright. BF3 has an actual color palette it turns out! Seriously, maps like Caspian and Armored Shield have color and richness now that I sure have never seen before. And I did attempt calibrations on past displays...


----------



## rickdmer

I thought I would post this here just in case anyone is interested. This is a calibrated color profile for the Glossy X-Star at 115hz (although it should be pretty close for 120hz as well). Calibrated with an i1 Display Pro at native brightness (6500k).

http://rickdmer.com/DUAL_DVI%20115hz%20native%20brightness.icm


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah ok so far that Asus ICC from TFTentral is the best one yet...but at 120Hz. Any lower is too bright. BF3 has an actual color palette it turns out! Seriously, maps like Caspian and Armored Shield have color and richness now that I sure have never seen before. And I did attempt calibrations on past displays...


Were your previous displays TN? I see lots and lots of people who go from TN to IPS or PLS mentioning they are now discovering BF3 has color to it...







. It took me a long time to figure out what everyone was talking about with the supposed "blue tint" which is mainly from TN panels, because the game itself has lots of color to it on good displays







. I finally played it on a notebook one day with a TN panel and found out what some people were talking about when claiming it was a dull, colorless game LOL.

EDIT: My X-Star DP2710 looks best with the Asus PB278Q v3 icc profile so far (same one you're using I think?)... 96hz though, hopefully tomorrow I make 120hz once my new cards arrive







.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickdmer*
> 
> I thought I would post this here just in case anyone is interested. This is a calibrated color profile for the Glossy X-Star at 115hz (although it should be pretty close for 120hz as well). Calibrated with an i1 Display Pro at native brightness (6500k).
> 
> http://rickdmer.com/DUAL_DVI%20115hz%20native%20brightness.icm


Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Vulpix

This is... Strange. I was unable to do 120hz on day 1 when I got my QX2710. Now 2 weeks have passed, and I can now run it at 120hz without flickering. Was trying to change to 110hz after reinstalling my drivers and accidentally selected 120hz. What?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> This is... Strange. I was unable to do 120hz on day 1 when I got my QX2710. Now 2 weeks have passed, and I can now run it at 120hz without flickering. Was trying to change to 110hz after reinstalling my drivers and accidentally selected 120hz. What?


Maybe something was busted in your prior driver install? Another possibility, though this is pure speculation, is that the PCB they use on these monitors was "breaking in" like old CPU's used to for overclocking, where after some use they would generally overclock better vs. when they were first installed. Considering the relative complexity of these PCB's to modern tech, they may be more similar to older-style CPU's than newer







. This happened technically due to the electrical pathways setting themselves in along traces and transistors once used awhile. Would I be surprised to hear this is what happened if some all-knowing guy told me? Yeah... but I wouldn't be shocked in disbelief







.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Were your previous displays TN? I see lots and lots of people who go from TN to IPS or PLS mentioning they are now discovering BF3 has color to it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It took me a long time to figure out what everyone was talking about with the supposed "blue tint" which is mainly from TN panels, because the game itself has lots of color to it on good displays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I finally played it on a notebook one day with a TN panel and found out what some people were talking about when claiming it was a dull, colorless game LOL.
> 
> EDIT: My X-Star DP2710 looks best with the Asus PB278Q v3 icc profile so far (same one you're using I think?)... 96hz though, hopefully tomorrow I make 120hz once my new cards arrive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I actually am not sure. 23" Apple Cinema, the 'Aluminum' ones from like late 2006. Got it used from work a few years ago. And the blue tint is actually a real thing but not all maps have it and proper calibration probably lessens it. Metro is one that definitely does. Metro in the Alpha did not have the tint, for the record (and which is the main proof it truly exists). You can find comparison shots around...

Yeah on 96Hz colors looked great still w/ this ICC but whites are too bright so I couldn't see some subtle borders and such in various things. Like that around and in the sig area here.


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Maybe something was busted in your prior driver install? Another possibility, though this is pure speculation, is that the PCB they use on these monitors was "breaking in" like old CPU's used to for overclocking, where after some use they would generally overclock better vs. when they were first installed. Considering the relative complexity of these PCB's to modern tech, they may be more similar to older-style CPU's than newer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This happened technically due to the electrical pathways setting themselves in along traces and transistors once used awhile. Would I be surprised to hear this is what happened if some all-knowing guy told me? Yeah... but I wouldn't be shocked in disbelief
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It's just strange. Maybe something was busted, I was attempting to install the 320.00 Geforce beta drivers and something screwed up. So I did a clean removal and reinstalled, and did that 120hz thing.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I actually am not sure. 23" Apple Cinema, the 'Aluminum' ones from like late 2006. Got it used from work a few years ago. And the blue tint is actually a real thing but not all maps have it and proper calibration probably lessens it. Metro is one that definitely does. Metro in the Alpha did not have the tint, for the record (and which is the main proof it truly exists). You can find comparison shots around...
> 
> Yeah on 96Hz colors looked great w/ that ICC still but whites too bright so I couldn't see some subtle borders and such in various things.


Ah, not sure what type that was. The blue tint is there but it's really minor (at least in my opinion) on most maps. The way you hear some people carrying on about it though, you'd think it was a completely blue screen







.


----------



## Spartan F8

This is probably not the best place to put this but i have been hanging around here so much. I just got a new Asus VS229-P to setup portrait next to my Qnix since i am selling my Crossover and for the hell of it i tried overclocking it. It took some tweaking but i got it to 72hz. I had to mess around with the CRU settings for a while to get it past 70hz and could not ever seem to get it to 75hz. I confirmed this with the refresh rate multitool. Also when using the multitool remember to only have one monitor active or you will get incorrect results(doh







).

Just figured i'd share if anyone is looking for a good browser side monitor.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BababooeyHTJ*
> 
> 3d vision was rough on my eyes at first too. It is with most people. Now I can handle depth that I couldn't imagine using when I first started using 3d vision.


Yeah the problem with me is that if there is anything in front of me that kinda contradicts the fact that its actually real is the reason of my headache. I will try to explain it better. My mind keeps telling me there isnsomethijng messed up with the depth. I once went to this simulated in my hometown and it was 3d too but that flight simulator was so dark that there was nothing else visible other then the display and that was the best 3d experience I had.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I have a real good friend who is an Optometrist and he explained me that people who have headaches when watching 3D have some dificulty with focusing, even if they never realize it and that it´s perfectly treatable with some therapy / exercices.
> 
> "Approximately ten percent of people don't have true depth perception to begin with..." - SOURCE: http://www.brightsideofnews.com/news/2011/7/27/analysis-can-3d-glasses-induce-headache.aspx


Yeah, I know that's what I have go through too I guess. My mind keeps looking at the other stationery thongs around the monitor and for some reason keeps telling me there is some thing at work here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Ah, not sure what type that was. The blue tint is there but it's really minor (at least in my opinion) on most maps. The way you hear some people carrying on about it though, you'd think it was a completely blue screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Lol


----------



## mspamed

Btw this is my current tracking status...
"Delivery arranged no details expected"
Wish me luck guys O


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> 96 hz is better than 105 hz right? For the sake of being able to watch movies and what not right?


Bump!


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Bump!


Yup! Though people will say keep it 105 if you don't notice any tearing, but if you can't notice tearing you won't notice much difference in the two. So it would be wise to stick with 98 hz and go easy on the monitor.


----------



## OneGun

Is it worth the risk to get one of these?I just bought a monoprice cause they are 25 miles from my house.It is a great monitor but i cant OC at all.Would it be worth the risk to get a pixel perfect Qnix and hope to be able to OC it?What is the exact one that can be OCed?


----------



## jakubk

"On FedEx vehicle for delivery". Almost there! I'm so excited and scared at the same time, I hope it's gonna be OK.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Is it worth the risk to get one of these?I just bought a monoprice cause they are 25 miles from my house.It is a great monitor but i cant OC at all.Would it be worth the risk to get a pixel perfect Qnix and hope to be able to OC it?What is the exact one that can be OCed?


Both the monitors are OCable and most have reached 98 hz and it is believed that higher hz depend on your gfx capacity too.
I would have stuck with the mono price simply because it has a warranty and you can easily claim it and since you haven't mentioned any errors I will recommend sticking with your mono price for now.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> "On FedEx vehicle for delivery". Almost there! I'm so excited and scared at the same time, I hope it's gonna be OK.


Mine is out for delivery too. I got a call and they charged me 20$ custom and other taxes. As far as I know there are no taxes on a LCD up to 32 inches, but since this is a monitor may be there is a 25% and I would rather pay then to dispute. I am so glad green-sum helped me out with the invoice


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Both the monitors are OCable and most have reached 98 hz and it is believed that higher hz depend on your gfx capacity too.
> I would have stuck with the mono price simply because it has a warranty and you can easily claim it and since you haven't mentioned any errors I will recommend sticking with your mono price for now.


Thank you for the reply.I love this monitor and it has a year warranty and its a A1 guaranteed perfect panel.You are right i am going to keep this as i don't want to risk the chance of getting a bad monitor from korea and dealing with the hassle..Thank you sir for your honest opinion ..


----------



## jakubk

I've just received my QNIX! No dead pixels, zero backlight bleeding (at least none that I'm aware of). Also the the whole monitor looks beautiful and I can control brightness via the hardware buttons (I though that they weren't supposed to work)

Overall, probably the most amazing screen I have seen in my life.


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> I've just received my QNIX! No dead pixels, zero backlight bleeding (at least none that I'm aware of). Also the the whole monitor looks beautiful and I can control brightness via the hardware buttons (I though that they weren't supposed to work)
> 
> Overall, probably the most amazing screen I have seen in my life.


Congrats! The brightness buttons do work, they just change the brightness in really small increments and there's no OSD so maybe that's why some people thought they didn't work.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> I've just received my QNIX! No dead pixels, zero backlight bleeding (at least none that I'm aware of). Also the the whole monitor looks beautiful and I can control brightness via the hardware buttons (I though that they weren't supposed to work)
> 
> Overall, probably the most amazing screen I have seen in my life.


Nice







. And yeah, the brightness buttons do work but they go as said in very small increments, though you can hold it down for several seconds to make it go faster







and fine-tune after.


----------



## apatch

I got my matte QNIX 2710 for a week, stuck pixels seems to vanish after moving and dissasembling monitor, and first it overclocked to 120hz without problem, but after few days I start to see a single vertical line, which is easier to see right after rising clocking higher than 70hz, with each higher clocking the line gets more solid.

It's more visible on grey or light blue, it's a hardware problem not a software, because it behaves the same in win 7 and win 8, trying so far moving my monitor and fixing cable connection but without help, changing values with CRU so far didn't helped too.

My cable is ticker than normal but not so good as monoprice cable, btw. I'm looking for some good 24 awg cable in europe, ebay got expensive shipping cost. I will try to check internal connections in a few days, but just recently slightly fixed a panel play and detached stand leftover, medium BLB still exist, problem with line appeared before opening a monitor, with 60hz the line is absolutely invisible, without any trace of it.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/20130512232507.jpg/

I got already glossy korean IMON IPS monitor modified with OC PCB that works with 110hz, that one got it's own problems but that's another story


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> Congrats! The brightness buttons do work, they just change the brightness in really small increments and there's no OSD so maybe that's why some people thought they didn't work.


Yeah if you hold it down you can see that it definitely works (or doesn't if yours happens to be broken but that would be a first as yet).


----------



## Gilgam3sh

got mine today







was sent friday so fast delivery


----------



## MrGreenankle

Just got hit with an $80 fee to pay... Man, I hate Sweden in situations like these!


----------



## Gilgam3sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> Just got hit with an $80 fee to pay... Man, I hate Sweden in situations like these!


lol, I just paid $40 fee by DHL, also Sweden.


----------



## Mehdi

My computer is in my office that doesn't have any windows, but it does have ceiling lights. Should I go straight for the glossy? or should I go right for the matte?


----------



## ssss69

Hi i have a problem. I ordered a qnix2710 from bbc, but he send me a x-star dp2710 led

What should I do now? Ask for a redund? Stay whith the xstar? Ask for an exchange

I payed for a qnix not for am xstar

Enviado desde mi GT-N7000 usando Tapatalk 2


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mehdi*
> 
> My computer is in my office that doesn't have any windows, but it does have ceiling lights. Should I go straight for the glossy? or should I go right for the matte?


I would go with matt if possible. I went with glossy, Mine is nowhere near a window, and the reflection from the light is annoying.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mehdi*
> 
> My computer is in my office that doesn't have any windows, but it does have ceiling lights. Should I go straight for the glossy? or should I go right for the matte?


The matte is a really good hybrid, it's a light light matte that basically eliminates glare but seems to have none of the downsides of harsher coatings I've seen (no visible grain/sparkle really from a 18-24 inches/normal viewing distance, you can find it by moving your head if you lean close to the screen to look for it). I'd recommend the matte in general.

*So, my new 660 Ti cards are in and running SLI... I went straight for 120hz which worked well for around 15-20 minutes but then started showing some artifacting horizontal green/red lines. I know there are supposed to be some timings I can tighten up with the nVidia panel, right? 115hz seems rock-solid but I'd rather have 120 for the even number divisible by 24.*

I have to say, BF3 at near-Ultra settings (2x MSAA, Ultra except shadows & effects high since they make no real visual difference and effects bogs down during large explosions) looks GORGEOUS.... at this refresh rate you no longer have blur during quick motion that makes it hard to tell what's going on, and I'm able to acquire targets way more easily. I tried toggling between 60 and 115hz and the difference is immediately obvious just moving my gun around, even at really high speeds (such as during a near-180) it's staying ghost/blur free. _BELIEVE THE HYPE if you're on the fence about trying a high refresh rate panel such as these... no guarantees you get one that can OC well but, if you do... good gods is it amazing. The best comparison I can make is almost CRT-like motion and sharpness, all while maintaining IPS-type color and 2560x1440 res._ Even zooming in with a 4x scope on my AEK-971 is staying crystal-clear and smooth, rather than looking like a blur as it centers the scope during the animation. And that is VERY quick motion.

I'm going to submit an update for my result in the OP's list once I've nailed down the OC, but needless to say, 96 is not my max














!

EDIT to note: I'm on a matte X-Star DP2710.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Is it worth the risk to get one of these?I just bought a monoprice cause they are 25 miles from my house.It is a great monitor but i cant OC at all.Would it be worth the risk to get a pixel perfect Qnix and hope to be able to OC it?What is the exact one that can be OCed?


If you look at page one of this thread, you can see what people's results have been trying to OC these monitors. There are also a few known issues, most of which are easily solved with a little tape. The image retention issue is the only one I'm aware of without a fix or workaround.

I have bitten the bullet and ordered one to replace my monoprice monitor. You'll have to decide for yourself.

If you decide to order one, it looks to me like the most overclockable is the Qnix, model QX2710 Evolution II. There is only one QX2710 by Qnix, so don't worry if the "Evolution II" part isn't in the listing.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssss69*
> 
> Hi i have a problem. I ordered a qnix2710 from bbc, but he send me a x-star dp2710 led
> 
> What should I do now? Ask for a redund? Stay whith the xstar? Ask for an exchange?


I'd say to open it up and try it out. Check for deqd pixels and blb, and try and overclock it. If its good on all those categories than just keep it. If the monitor has any defects than ask about a return (at no cost to you) or a partial refund


----------



## dir_d

So i have something weird to report with my monitor. I have it at 96hz and i have an icm file for color calibration on it. i have a second monitor that is 1080p off to the side that i put monitoring software for benching gaming etc. When i leave the computer on an the screensaver sits for a couple hours i come back and the monitor is no longer detected with windows and it losses its calibration. The monitor is still usable but windows just sees it as a plug and play device that cannot be calibrated. I have to reboot for it to recognize and apply the calibration again. Anyone else have anything similar. Im also on 13.5b and patched in test mode.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Thank you for the reply.I love this monitor and it has a year warranty and its a A1 guaranteed perfect panel.You are right i am going to keep this as i don't want to risk the chance of getting a bad monitor from korea and dealing with the hassle..Thank you sir for your honest opinion ..


Always glad to help a fellow geek out








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> I've just received my QNIX! No dead pixels, zero backlight bleeding (at least none that I'm aware of). Also the the whole monitor looks beautiful and I can control brightness via the hardware buttons (I though that they weren't supposed to work)
> 
> Overall, probably the most amazing screen I have seen in my life.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> Congrats! The brightness buttons do work, they just change the brightness in really small increments and there's no OSD so maybe that's why some people thought they didn't work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . And yeah, the brightness buttons do work but they go as said in very small increments, though you can hold it down for several seconds to make it go faster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and fine-tune after.


Congrats!!!
The button thing was a issue caused by sellers mentioning OSD on their ebay descriptions. Even most youtube reviews from high end sources have made the same mistake of believing it to be a fault.

A huge review post is on its way


----------



## DeadGivaway

Did anyone else have to fill out FCC form 740 to import their Qnix?

In the box for manufacturers name and address, what did you put? I can't find a non-Korean address for them, and where the address is listed on their site, it's not selectable as text for translation purposes.


----------



## mspamed

*Updated 20th May 8:13 AM Indian Standard Time.
This is a super long post with details that might have nothing to do with this monitors review. I shared everything I felt was worth it.*

_*New Updates and discoveries are in Italic font.*_

*Now for my celebration time







*
Received my seXy-STAR an hour ago, I was charged 25% import duties and taxes. Luckily Green-Sum had marked the item as 90$ in value. I don't see any mention of it being marked as gift.

*The Seller:*
I purchased this panel from Green-Sum, on 8th May, and asked him half a dozen question before and after purchase, to all of which he replied in less then 24 hrs. Please know that all my question were asked in the afternoon and due to the time difference it was night in South Korea. I was provided with a tracking number on 9th May.

*The Shipping:*
The product was shipped 2 days after the purchase, which is impressive but compared to some other experiences on this forum is quite late. I am assuming they ship like 2 - 3 times a week and if you are lucky you will buy the product the day they are scheduled to ship.
The shipping company used in my case was DHL. I was pretty happy with that, as my last EMS shipped product never made it.
The other thing I like about DHL and FedEX is they take care of all the taxes and duties. You just have to pay the cash on delivery. No experience in this department with EMS.
There are reviews on the internet that suggests products shipped from DHL always goes through customs, unlike FedEx, through which you have a better chance of getting away without paying any duties or fees.

Here are the shipment tracking details just for reference :



Unlike what I had assumed, the product keeps travelling during Saturday and Sunday and its just the delivery that is made on weekdays.

I was called by the Delivery company, not DHL but a small scale service provider to whom the product was handed over, and they told me about the amount that I will have to pay and if I had it with me or needed some time or if I wanna return the product. I obviously asked them to come right away and also tried to offer some reward if the product was delivered in less then an hour. To which he laughed and said he is required to go through the list in a specific order and thanked me. I said that's alright but when can I expect the delivery, he gave me an estimate of 16:30 Indian time.
Surprisingly, the delivery man was right on time, not a minute late. He allowed me to take my time and check the product for any damages and defects and I offered him some tea, coffee.
I couldn't see any damages on the box. The panel was shaking even inside the box and was audible even when the box was moved slightly. Also the bubble wrapping was ripped at a few places. The courier guy said it was because of the clippers that they used to keep the product in place and in upright position.





Once everything looked ok, I signed for the product and paid the taxes and offered some reward anyway for his patience. Which he surprisingly denied. It was against their company policy. I know this isn't important but that boys honesty and dedication was worth mentioning.
Though the moment he left I realized I never inspected the base (not of the monitor but of the box), it had a huge dent in it








I was just praying that it wasn't the panel/screen side.

*The Packaging:*
The whole box was pretty well wrapped and all the corners were tapped excessively. There was a fragile sticker on both sides.
But, once I removed the wrapping the box had fragile stickers again on the inside and the fragile sticker was blocking what seemed to be a shipping invoice.






Maybe the factory does ship it to these sellers and they check it themselves and only then choose the best one's for selling.
So maybe the Pixel Perfect are really tested and maybe the once's that weren't perfect were just damaged in the shipping.
The first heart attack I got was that the box was opened previously. Now either it went through the normal check or may be it was the imperfect monitor that didn't cleared the perfect monitor test












Then I took a second glance on the damaged area of the box and it was a disaster!!! I kinda saw the panel right away but decided to not look at it. I was scared as hell, my mom was just next to me and if this thing is cracked she wouldn't mind putting few cracks on my skull.




They say you are an atheist until the plane starts to go down, I saw you are an atheist until you order one of these.

*The Unboxing:*
I then opened the box up and noticed that there was no protection what so ever on the panel. I mean even a small item penetrating through the box could have damaged the panel beyond repair. I was furious and took videos and pictures hoping to bash Green-Sum on such a stupid packaging.



There was this one box on top, it had the DVI-D dual link cable, there was the power adapter, the audio male to male cable and the power cord, which I choose to skip cause it has no ground pin.



I then removed the stand which was just lying behind the monitor and was the culprit making those noises inside the box.



Finally, I removed the panel out of the box and then out of the plastic covering and found it to be in perfect condition. The stand had some serious cracks though. The easy part was over, now I had to see if it works and looks that good.






Sorry for the blurry image, was holding the monitor from the right hand.

*The Setup:*
My computer table is puny compared to this monitor and setting it up was quite a pain, mostly because of the weak a** plastic case. Even picking up the monitor makes it feel like its gonna break in two. Touching it makes it wobble like a jello.
The monitor looked un-parallel with the table, I lifted it from left and it kinda rotated like .5 cm up :|
So I used my AC remote and balanced the two corners and that's it. The stand is way to stiff to bend on its own so thats great













The Stand on the other hand is way to tight. I think almost at the breaking point of the plastic casing the stand decided to let go and move a bit. Until then I thought I was stuck with an immovable stand.
The DVI cable was a horror while attaching. that thing is so fat batman used it to Batclaw penguin.
Its hard to not worry about breaking something while you are attaching it and the screws just seems to take forever.

*The Startup:*
I remember and prayed and begged to every god I know and switched on the monitor.
Nothing happened.
I tried to sniff if something was wrong and or burning in the panel as I had done a pretty good job with the cables.
I though maybe it will work only when the pc is running, so I started my PC too.....







....and nothing








I told my mom she should go as it will take some time, she wanted to be there when it started for the first time. She asked me is it even working, I said yeah I need to calibrate it








She went and I started loosing it.
It had to be because of no protection on the panel. I was going crazy.
I looked at the power brick and it had no light. So maybe it was just the brick, who know???
I then tried to tighten all the cords, just in case.
I ran it again and nothing.
I then just sit back and stared at it for a minute and thought maybe its the new power cord that I brought for the monitor.
I wasn't going to try the no-ground pin stock cord, so I ran and got it replaced, for some reason I didn't felt like testng my PSU's cable just to check.
Came home and reattached the power cord.
Switched it on
.
..
...and...
..
.








.
..








..
.
Red Screen
.
Green Screen
.
Blue Screen
.








Its on!!!!!

I quickly started the pc and even the bios was visible and that too in full screen mode (Is there a scaler on this thing ???)
The black background of the bios looked black, I mean it was pitch black BEAUTIFUL. No backlight bleed what so ever.
I paused the the pc right there and took the brightness to the highest and no light bleed, I brought it down to the lowest and no bleed again.



















































































































At Lowest Brightness.

At Highest Brightness. Nope there is no bleeding. Its just the phone camera and the direction through which I took the shot.

I didn't cared for the dead/stuck pixels cause you don't notice them unless you go looking but backlight bleed is easier to notice and someone like me would end up starring at it for the rest of the monitors life.

My PSP had a dead pixel that my brother had noticed and I made him swear he would never tell me where it was. I accidentaly found that dead pixels 3 years later. That was a low resolution screen, this is freaking QuadHD who cares about one pixel when you have millions









No backlight bleed, no dead/stuck pixel, no tints.
What about color patches? Lets resume the booting.
I had already setup a 2560x1440 wallpaper through my other monitor.
Windows starts, I enter my password.
Windows 8 Start Menu.
I click on the desktop and my god the beautifulness of this monitor just punched me in the face.












I went in the personalization menu and used the solid color backgrounds to check for dead pixels. I wasn't looking for one or two but for patches of them. Found none. So looked for single pixels. Found NONE :whee:
No color patchiness either. If present then it must be just the normal patchiness that a led monitor has, which is invisible to naked eyes.
Did I received a perfect pixel monitor?!?!?!?
What about the panel play?
Yup, alot of it. The entire panel can move back and forth if you tilt the monitor. May be the consistent spacing and looseness of the bezel is responsible for no light bleed.

_*The Matte Coating:*

These pictures were taken on May 14th, at 1:42 pm. The tubelight was switched on and the windows were open.
Please understand that the camera for some reason exagerrates the reflection. The tube light looks way more faded then visible in the second picture.
The coating is so great that in 6 years this is the first time I am using my pc with my curtains open









The brightness was just 4 click above the lowest brightness, where your screen kinda goes completely black.




At MAXIMUM (did you read this word like in the Crysis game too







) brightness.


_

_*The OverClocking:*

OC'ed to 96Hz on my GTX 560. Doesn't go above 400Hz, even with the patch and CRU. It might not just be my GFX alone even my other specs are quite average.
OC'ed to 120Hz on a borrowed GTX 680. With nVidia control panel and patched drivers. Didn't tested for anything higher, didn't got much time to play with the card.

*Update:* The reason my GTX 560 didn't went above 400MHz was that the test mode was just visible on the desktop but it was never started for some reason.
So, these are the steps I took:
Reinstalled the drivers.
Patched the drivers.
Patched the SLI limits too, just in case.
Started the Test Mode.
Restarted the PC.
Created a 120 Hz custom Resolution in nVidia Control Panel and choose Automatic Timing.
It ran perfectly smooth.
I decided to see the highest I could go.
I went to 130Hz it wasn't supported.
So I changed the timing to manual and copied the information from this thread http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide
I choose 130Hz instead of 120Hz and it was stable.
I went to 134 and it was stable too.
I went to 136 and started seeing one horizontal line in the center
At 137 the Screen Jiggled vertically and the lies increased to 5 -6.
I couldn't go higher then that.
I am running my monitor at 134 now but its only for testing and bragging rights.
I will run it at 60Hz normally.

Getting to 140Hz at 1440p









Used these settings under manual:



Getting to 144Hz at 1080p









BTW I can get to 144Hz stable with no flickering or anything on 1080p resolution, but that causes only the 1920x1080p segment to show, the rest of the screen shows weird colors. You don't select 1080p resolution, you select 2560x1440 and then in the custom resolution in nvidia you set the timing manually. In the timing windows you change 2560 to 1920 and 1440 to 1080.

Also, its worth noting that going from 60 to 134Hz/144Hz made no change in my GTX 560 's temperatures. It was at 45-46 all the time._

*The Official Specs (Manual):*

_It shows the response time as 6ms in the manual. Also, these are HDCP compatible._




Movies look awesome, I mean the black is black again, unlike the grey-black on my Nexus 7 IPS screen.
Played FarCry 3. Had to switch off the pc and take a breath, I was so excited I needed a break, seriously








Brilliant Screens.

I have kept this screen on since 6 hours now and there is no burn-in visible. I left the Internet Download Manager drag and drop box running all the while. Maybe its caused only when overclocked???

*The System:*
Processor:
Core 2 Duo
E8400
3GHz
age 6years.

Ram:
2x2GB Kingston
800MHz
age 6years.

MotherBoard:
Biostar
945GC-M7 TE v6.2
age 6years

Primary Hard Drive:
Hitachi
250 GB
7200 RPM
age 6years

Secondary Hard Drive:
Western Digital
WD20EARX
2TB
Green Drive
Age 8 Months

Graphics:
Point Of View
nVidia GTX 560
2TB
Age 1 year 4 months.


----------



## brightbus

Nice write up!

I've had mine on constantly since I've had it, and oc to 120hz and havent had any burn in issues.

And thats lame about them not protecting the monitor. Mine was wrapped around in bubble wrap.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Try some ICCs but many of the "best" ones are too bright at 60Hz.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mehdi*
> 
> My computer is in my office that doesn't have any windows, but it does have ceiling lights. Should I go straight for the glossy? or should I go right for the matte?


Go for matte you will thank me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssss69*
> 
> Hi i have a problem. I ordered a qnix2710 from bbc, but he send me a x-star dp2710 led
> 
> What should I do now? Ask for a redund? Stay whith the xstar? Ask for an exchange
> 
> I payed for a qnix not for am xstar
> 
> Enviado desde mi GT-N7000 usando Tapatalk 2


Ask if he will give you a partial refund, if not, tell him to arrange a pick up and if he denies just file a dispute.
If he agrees to give a refund, open up the monitor and check if its in good standing.

Also, BCC will definitely give you a refund cause he just mailed you a product that he is selling for a lower price.
I have a X-Star and I would say choose partial refund rather then going through the trouble of sending this one back again.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Try some ICCs but many of the "best" ones are too bright at 60Hz.


Looks vibrant enough, maybe when I get bored.


----------



## Gilgam3sh

do anyone have a good 96hz qx2710 matte icc profile? or can I use 120hz profile but still run 96hz?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> do anyone have a good 96hz qx2710 matte icc profile? or can I use 120hz profile but still run 96hz?


There is one in the OP under "Color Calibration Profiles and How to Install Them"

look for
"Originally Posted by dascth

If my calibrations look crap on your monitor, then this one will too!

96Hz calibration, matte monitor"


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> *This is a super long post with details that might have nothing to do with this monitors review. I shared everything I felt was worth it.*


Looking good! Nice review! And thanks for the detailed information, the more the better 

Just to be sure, this wasn't a pixel perfect right?
And it's more or less this one right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/111070644047?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19dc53874f

Cheers!


----------



## Gilgam3sh

ok, 96hz seems to be working very good, I can enable 120hz but I got some red/green flickering not much but I can see it, I use HD7970 in Crossfire and use a gold plated DVI-D cable... can I do something to run 120hz 100% good? I'm happy with 96hz but just wonder if I can get 120hz 100% stable. any trick or something


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes you can run any ICC at whatever refresh. There are only different ones specifying Hz for these displays due to the darkening effect when overclocked. So, for example, I found the Asus PLS ICC that everyone loves too bright at 96 but looks fantastic at 120 (and does that Asus display run at or overclock to 120?). And brightness etc can be manually tweaked too of course but kind of a pain to get 'perfect' I find.

Also if you have a few scan lines now at 120 keep tweaking and try again; mine have gone away (though only ever saw a few red in middle). CRU refinements can help but it's hairy. I think I am using LCD Reduced now though and wasn't originally. Still on stock cable.


----------



## jakubk

I have tried to overclock my monitor but whenever I try to go above 96 Hz, nVidia panel says that "Test failed. Custom resolution 2560x1440 at 120 Hz is not supported by your display". Am I just doing something wrong or does it mean that I am not going to be able to go past 96 Hz in any way? Cheers!


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> I have tried to overclock my monitor but whenever I try to go above 96 Hz, nVidia panel says that "Test failed. Custom resolution 2560x1440 at 120 Hz is not supported by your display". Am I just doing something wrong or does it mean that I am not going to be able to go past 96 Hz in any way? Cheers!


You need to use the driver patch that unlocks your pixel clock for 400mhz+







. It's in the OP... that error is what you'll get if it isn't patched properly. Also, note that on 200-series cards and lower the driver patch doesn't work from what I've read (and can confirm on a 9600 GSO), which limits you to right around 96hz.

I'm up to 112hz stable with manual timings, think I'll probably stay here. Seems to be the best balance of high rate and not causing too much darkening on colors for my panel.


----------



## jakubk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> You need to use the driver patch that unlocks your pixel clock for 400mhz+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It's in the OP... that error is what you'll get if it isn't patched properly. Also, note that on 200-series cards and lower the driver patch doesn't work from what I've read (and can confirm on a 9600 GSO), which limits you to right around 96hz.
> 
> I'm up to 112hz stable with manual timings, think I'll probably stay here. Seems to be the best balance of high rate and not causing too much darkening on colors for my panel.


I have used the patch but I haven't heard about the problems with 200-series cards







I've got a GTX260 so that's probably the cause why I can't overclock to 120 Hz


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> I have used the patch but I haven't heard about the problems with 200-series cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a GTX260 so that's probably the cause why I can't overclock to 120 Hz


Yeah, I dug around some when I couldn't figure out why the patch applied but wasn't working, for my old backup card (I was waiting on my 660 Ti SLI to arrive, which it did this morning). I found someone mention that it won't work in the drivers for 200-series and below, which seems to be true because I'm able to go for broke with the new cards as far as pixel-clock is concerned. It doesn't seem to be a well-known tidbit...







.


----------



## DeadGivaway

So anyone figure out the best workaround to the issue of 5xx series cards not clocking down when idle if the pixel clock is over 404MHz?

Can I lower the pixel clock on the fly when not gaming without having to reboot? I know about the idle screen saver but my concern is when using the computer for non-gaming tasks, not during idle periods.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Looking good! Nice review! And thanks for the detailed information, the more the better
> 
> Just to be sure, this wasn't a pixel perfect right?
> And it's more or less this one right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/111070644047?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19dc53874f
> 
> Cheers!


Thanks








and yeah its the same listing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> So anyone figure out the best workaround to the issue of 5xx series cards not clocking down when idle if the pixel clock is over 404MHz?
> 
> Can I lower the pixel clock on the fly when not gaming without having to reboot? I know about the idle screen saver but my concern is when using the computer for non-gaming tasks, not during idle periods.


What!?
I have a 5xx card, I didn't knew about this. Well nevermind I wasn't overclocking anyways.
Just curious what if I hit 144 Hz....


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakubk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> You need to use the driver patch that unlocks your pixel clock for 400mhz+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It's in the OP... that error is what you'll get if it isn't patched properly. Also, note that on 200-series cards and lower the driver patch doesn't work from what I've read (and can confirm on a 9600 GSO), which limits you to right around 96hz.
> 
> I'm up to 112hz stable with manual timings, think I'll probably stay here. Seems to be the best balance of high rate and not causing too much darkening on colors for my panel.
> 
> 
> 
> I have used the patch but I haven't heard about the problems with 200-series cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a GTX260 so that's probably the cause why I can't overclock to 120 Hz
Click to expand...

I wonder if the 200 series and below nvidia cards have a hardware limitation that prevents high OC, or purely software. I would assume that it is a hardware-based limitation, in specific bandwidth/speed limitation? I will add that to the op, though


----------



## davey1694

I got mines at 10:30 am today and I only have one stuck pixel and minor BLB on both lower corners.
Here are some pictures.

Also I got a piece of paper saying they had checked my monitor, I don't know if dream-seller does this for all monitors or just "pixel perfect" ones, I did not buy a "pixel perfect" monitor so there's that.


----------



## d3vour3r

wow just notice some pretty bad screen burn after leaving the monitor on for a couple hours with nothing changing.

i wonder if the 96hz OC has anything to do with it :S


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> wow just notice some pretty bad screen burn after leaving the monitor on for a couple hours with nothing changing.
> 
> i wonder if the 96hz OC has anything to do with it :S


Wait, you left 96hz on in the desktop? I'd rather use it just for games.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well it should go away...

And it's useful on the desktop too. Mouse tracking and such. I sure can't be bothered to remember to launch CRU all to switch all the damn time anyway. Ain't nobody got time fo that.


----------



## Gilgam3sh

hmm, the red/green flickering disappeared when I made a new 120hz profile with CRU and chose LCD reduced, now it works great, did I lose something when I chose LCD reduced?

thanks


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well it should go away...
> 
> And it's useful on the desktop too. Mouse tracking and such. I sure can't be bothered to remember to launch CRU all to switch all the damn time anyway. Ain't nobody got time fo that.


Yeah I do love how smooth the mouse is on desktop as well.


----------



## chughes65

QNIX just got in!!! Got to take my pup to the vet, then I am going straight to set it up!! Fingers are crossed for good results!


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3vour3r*
> 
> wow just notice some pretty bad screen burn after leaving the monitor on for a couple hours with nothing changing.
> 
> i wonder if the 96hz OC has anything to do with it :S


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> Wait, you left 96hz on in the desktop? I'd rather use it just for games.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well it should go away...
> 
> And it's useful on the desktop too. Mouse tracking and such. I sure can't be bothered to remember to launch CRU all to switch all the damn time anyway. Ain't nobody got time fo that.


Yeah I get the image retention/Screen burn too, but as far as I can see it´s only when its overclocked. The mouse and dragging windows does feel much smoother at higher HZ, I noticed the difference immediately. It does go away after some time of gaming though as far as i can tell. Just hope it doesn´t get worse.


----------



## d3vour3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Yeah I get the image retention/Screen burn too, but as far as I can see it´s only when its overclocked. The mouse and dragging windows does feel much smoother at higher HZ, I noticed the difference immediately. It does go away after some time of gaming though as far as i can tell. Just hope it doesn´t get worse.


hmmm

i might just have to go into CCC and change the hz when im gaming and leave it on 60hz when im just in desktop etc. its good in games like BF3 where u manage the hz in game cus u dont have to stuff around with it in desktop.


----------



## evilferret

My Xstar from Hulustar came in. Order last week on Thursday.

Slight BLB but haven't found any dead pixels yet.

Got it to 96hz easily, 120hz seems to have some flickering. Going to try to borrow some cables and see if it makes a difference.

Hoping the prices don't rise like the other Korean monitors so I can try to get a surround setup eventually.


----------



## wntrsnowg

*Congrats, we just hit the 100+ member mark!*


----------



## GoldenTiger

@mspamed, nice, I'm glad it got to you and you like it







.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cool. I haven't even officially joined yet. Mainly as don't know max oc yet.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

From [H]. This guy had bad panel play; not sure about bleed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> Well, pics aren't forthcoming. As I was taking them, I didn't check to see if they were viable or worthy and by the time I was done and look at them, they were all so dark as to be worthless. Sorry for the photo fail.
> 
> However, I will say that the mods were and are super easy to do. The hardest part is popping the plastic bezel and making sure you don't pull out the LCD without loosening the tabs on the metal bracket on both side. Also, be careful when you lift the entire LCD out of the back of the housing that you do it gently so you don't yank on the cables/wires attached to the connectors.
> 
> On the left and the right of the bottom inside of the plastic housing you will see 4 plastic nubs. Put 3 to 4 pieces of electrical tape over them. This will raise the metal bracket slightly enough to get rid of the panel play.
> 
> Also, taking the metal bezel off of the LCD will be slightly tricky. Remember the position of the left and right metal brackets. The top of the bracket should be flush with metal LCD bezel. Also, it should hang below the metal bezel slightly at the bottom. Remember it's orientation as well. Unscrew the metal plate covering the LCD PCA from the metal LCD housing. Use a flat head screw driver to pop off the bezel at the snap points. Patience is required here because you do not want to slip. Loosen the tabs all the way around and slowly pull the metal bezel from the LCD.
> 
> Once you have that done, then you can lay down electrical tape on the inside of the metal bezel. Hang the tape half way off the edge and fold it over. Do it to all 4 side. Once that's done, orient the metal bezel properly and then snap it back into place. Lightly tap over the metal snap areas to get them to bend around the snaps to hold the metal bezel in place because you may have bent them slightly to get it off.
> 
> Rescrew the brackets back on and tip the LCD upside down so you can plug in the connectors. Lay down the LCD and orient it gently. make sure the brackets set and snap in properly. Then put the front plastic bezel back on. Snap it into place. and viola, you should be done. I also removed the stand stub and the speakers too. I didn't need either of them.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Anyone try 3d glasses with this screen? Is it worth 40 dollars to try it out?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Anyone try 3d glasses with this screen? Is it worth 40 dollars to try it out?


3D will not work with these monitors as they do not have any of the features that 3D monitor have . These are needed for proper 3D effect. You can however force it to use 3D but it will always have ghosting as the response time and sync with the glasses will never be good enough without these things. For reference see the old thread about them trying to get 3D working on the catleaps.


----------



## Klouczech

I was just searching, who sells QNIX PLS monitors and BCC and AW don't sell them.

Is Green-Sum and Dream-seller ok with the customer service and solving the technical problems? Who is better?
What about real returns time?


----------



## Pure2sin

Do we have a count if how many panels were able to get to 120hz and Qnix or X-star?


----------



## Gilgam3sh

do I lose something in using "Automatic - LCD reduced" in CRU instead of "Automatic - LCD standard"? with that I can run my QNIX QX2710 at 120hz without any problem, otherwise I get very little red/green flickering at 120hz


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> @mspamed, nice, I'm glad it got to you and you like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thanks








BTW are you green-sum ?!?!?!?
I just sent an appreciation message to him and your reply kinda makes me feel like you are him :|
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 3D will not work with these monitors as they do not have any of the features that 3D monitor have . These are needed for proper 3D effect. You can however force it to use 3D but it will always have ghosting as the response time and sync with the glasses will never be good enough without these things. For reference see the old thread about them trying to get 3D working on the catleaps.


The sync with 3d glass will only be a problem if using shutter glasses to get 3d. Go the classic route and get a cyan and red glass.
Reduce the resolution to half.
and run a software that will run your pc in 3d, there was a software like that I tried on my old 60Hz monitor and it worked flawlessly.
Anyone with the red cyan glasses should give this a try.

BTW, I tried to OC my monitor and it reached 96Hz easily but didn't went any higher.
So, I borrowed a GTX680 from a friend and BAAAAMMMM!!! 120Hz









Well I did this only out of curiosity and have gotten back to my GTX 560 and also 60Hz.

If you guys remembered I said that the whole panel had panel play, like everywhere. But when trying to vacuum the dust out of the space between the panel and the bezel I noticed that the bezel is too tight at the bottom center right above the X-star logo. Even though there is no light bleed am afraid the whole panel is stand vertically only because of that. I am afraid the pressure might be too much and may cause some damage in the long run.... What should I do???

Does opening the panel voids the warranty???

Also, I have updated the review, added some pictures of the brilliant matte coating.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> do I lose something in using "Automatic - LCD reduced" in CRU instead of "Automatic - LCD standard"? with that I can run my QNIX QX2710 at 120hz without any problem, otherwise I get very little red/green flickering at 120hz


Yeah, I would like to know that too.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Yeah, I would like to know that too.


I read somewhere that setting iks the best one for OCing your monitor..I believe it was in these forums...Read this..

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU?page=1


----------



## Koehler

So which has better build quality and aesthetics: QNIX or X-STAR?


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> So which has better build quality and aesthetics: QNIX or X-STAR?


If both the panels look same then I would say choose anyone.
I love my x-star especially the glossy bezel is beautiful and the monitor doesn't look cheap at all, unless the person touches it and it starts to wobble.


----------



## fullban

uk customs charges 2wk later BEWARE!!









robbing bastards!!

THE MONITOR COST ME £196


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I was just searching, who sells QNIX PLS monitors and BCC and AW don't sell them.
> 
> Is Green-Sum and Dream-seller ok with the customer service and solving the technical problems? Who is better?
> What about real returns time?


Which seller is the best for QNIXs and X-Stars?


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> uk customs charges 2wk later BEWARE!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> robbing bastards!!
> 
> THE MONITOR COST ME £196


Yeah there's customs duty and VAT, yet another form of double taxation...
Which is why you should have asked for the seller to put a lower value and as a gift.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW are you green-sum ?!?!?!?


Hehe, no, I'm not green-sum or any of these vendors







.


----------



## bhardy1185

Got my Matte QNIX's monitor in yesterday. Didn't have time to set it up and test it but did take some photos of the unboxing. After seeing some pictures on here, I was pretty disappointed in the packaging my panel received. I was hoping for the bubble wrap around the outer box to help protect it. Instead I got a just the box with a nice little hole/gash in it. I was praying that it wasn't panel side. Here are a few pictures I took just in case I had to send it back.








And here is the screen itself.


This following picture kind of worried me. You might be able to see it in this picture, there are several "streaks" on the plastic screen protector. Kind of makes me think something scratched up against it or something along those lines. You can only really make one out in the picture but there were 4 or 5 of them across the screen. Will have to wait until either tonight or tomorrow to test the screen out and see how it looks. Will update later.



And I leave you with my partner in crime. She almost made it through the unboxing but passed out close to the end.


----------



## mspamed

Guys, there seems to be an issue with the stand or god knows what?!?!?!?!?

If you went through my review you are aware I got a bleed free perfect monitor. I have been using the stock stand as it was way too stiff and the height is just perfect for my table, but today I noticed light bleed, a pretty major one and then there were suddenly two. I tilted the monitor back to the way it ships (screen facing kinda upwards, tilted back)

Here is the bleed image. Can anyone using the stock stand please tell me if they are having such issues with their monitor too.
BTW, pressing the areas or massaging does nothing









This time the camera has done justice to the actual condition of the bleed, infact its kinda worse then what it looks on the cam











This has also been posted in the qnix forum but I am desperate, also I recommend everyone using the stock stand to tilt the monitor back to its default angle until someone can confirm this issue is no related to the stand.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Desperate for what? Yes my bleed looks almost exactly the same only the one on the left is brighter and mine don't go so high. I take anyone saying "mine is bleed free" with a grain of salt though some likely do have little to none as I think it's definitely related to the frame inside and/or the bezel. I have very little panel play and, interestingly, where the panel seems totally flush with the bezel and *where the panel can not be pushed in at all is where most of my bleed spots occur*.

So it's not the stand specifically I don't think but, yes, I too noticed it's lessened depending on angle and is worse when the monitor is tilted back in the "stock position". The camera makes mine worse, actually, which is one reason I haven't posted pics.

The only way to possibly fix this is to open it up. Your mom won't like that.


----------



## SDBolts619

Quick question for those who have overclocked their monitors - what kind of GPU temperature rise did you see with your overclocks? I'm running 96hz currently and my cards are seriously hot during BF3 sessions - maxing out at right around 80 degrees. On my 1080 monitor at 60hz, I was only seeing max temps in the mid 60's...

Might have to look at putting my cards under water now...


----------



## Coolio831

Sorry no unboxing pics, OC to 100Hz. Anything higher causes my window to stutter like if would be getting 5fps when i move it side to side, Any ideas why? I think my video card is holding me back (gtx 560 ti hawk) will be picking up 3 660 ti's 3gb in a couple weeks. Hopefully i could get 120Hz stable.


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Sorry no unboxing pics, OC to 100Hz. Anything higher causes my window to stutter like if would be getting 5fps when i move it side to side, Any ideas why? I think my video card is holding me back (gtx 560 ti hawk) will be picking up 3 660 ti's 3gb in a couple weeks. Hopefully i could get 120Hz stable.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


From what I have read in this forum and I think one or two more, the GTX 5XX series has problems with anything above 96Hz. I would look through some of the older posts (2 to 5 pages) and look at what some of the other people are having issues with. I believe everything will be fine once those 660's get it


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> From what I have read in this forum and I think one or two more, the GTX 5XX series has problems with anything above 96Hz. I would look through some of the older posts (2 to 5 pages) and look at what some of the other people are having issues with. I believe everything will be fine once those 660's get it


aww sweet! I missed some pages as I had gone to Vegas for the boxing match and was at the Encore - Beach Club partying my head off. I'm pumped up for the 660 ti's, but wondering if 2 680's 4GB would be a better choice?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> aww sweet! I missed some pages as I had gone to Vegas for the boxing match and was at the Encore - Beach Club partying my head off. I'm pumped up for the 660 ti's, but wondering if 2 680's 4GB would be a better choice?


Obviously, but they're also more expensive.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Obviously, but they're also more expensive.


Something to think about then for me next week


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Something to think about then for me next week


I believe the 4gb version are not worth it for single monitor, whatever resolution


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I believe the 4gb version are not worth it for single monitor, whatever resolution


Going for 3 660 ti 3gb should be in the clear i hope :/

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-680-geforce-gtx-660-ti-sli,3429-9.html


----------



## Relance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Sorry no unboxing pics, OC to 100Hz. Anything higher causes my window to stutter like if would be getting 5fps when i move it side to side, Any ideas why? I think my video card is holding me back (gtx 560 ti hawk) will be picking up 3 660 ti's 3gb in a couple weeks. Hopefully i could get 120Hz stable.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Raise your 2D clockspeeds. This happened to me with my 7970 until I raised my 2D clockspeeds up.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Desperate for what? Yes my bleed looks almost exactly the same only the one on the left is brighter and mine don't go so high. I take anyone saying "mine is bleed free" with a grain of salt though some likely do have little to none as I think it's definitely related to the frame inside and/or the bezel. I have very little panel play and, interestingly, where the panel seems totally flush with the bezel and *where the panel can not be pushed in at all is where most of my bleed spots occur*.
> 
> So it's not the stand specifically I don't think but, yes, I too noticed it's lessened depending on angle and is worse when the monitor is tilted back in the "stock position". The camera makes mine worse, actually, which is one reason I haven't posted pics.


My entire panels rocks back and forth and the bottom is the only place where it is very tightly seated and no, there was no bleed at all.
What I was trying to explain was that when I tilted the monitor to face parallel to the table the stand tightened/pressed the bezel/frame into the panel and slowly but noticeably the bleed started getting worse. That's why I was desperate as I was afraid the whole screen would be ruined.
I immediately titled the monitor back to the stock angle and after 4 - 5 hours the bleed has gone.
I have a perfect panel again for now, but once I get a new vesa mount, I will wait for the warranty period to end and then throw the stock stand under a freakin road roller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> The only way to possibly fix this is to open it up. Your mom won't like that.


Nah, I have been opening electronics up since my childhood. It's just that, in times like these, when you spend 330$ on something, which is 18K in Indian currency, you expect it to at-least start.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Relance*
> 
> Raise your 2D clockspeeds. This happened to me with my 7970 until I raised my 2D clockspeeds up.


Is that what's causing it? If i restart with anything higher than 100Hz I have to load last known good configuration cause after start screen screen looses signal (blue light flashes).


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*


Nice setup... corona y modelo. What speakers are those?


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Nice setup... corona y modelo. What speakers are those?


Yes sir, Dayton b652's pioneerisloud recommended em awhile back. I have a Dayton T100 amp 50w/channel 2 channels, Polkaudio sub 10" forgot the model #.

Edit: Sub PSW110

Edit2: Google tv will be going back into my bedroom, was using it temporary as a monitor while i waiting for my Qnix.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Nah, I have been opening electronics up since my childhood. It's just that, in times like these, when you spend 330$ on something, which is 18K in Indian currency, you expect it to at-least start.


Well some backlight bleed is far from not "starting" and you even already claim in the other thread that it has gone away by simply tilting the monitor for a time. Not really sure about all that; if that's really the case then yours must not be the same as mine despite the similar pic. Regardless, we know ahead of time what we are getting into with the relatively shoddy build quality on these things and they are still an utterly fantastic deal for the Samsung PLS panels inside them. Relative to the $799 or whatever it costs to get a similar screen from a name brand like Asus or Dell. And overall yours sounds in really good shape!


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well some backlight bleed is far from not "starting" and you even already claim in the other thread that it has gone away by simply tilting the monitor for a time. Not really sure about all that; if that's really the case then yours must not be the same as mine despite the similar pic. Regardless, we know ahead of time what we are getting into with the relatively shoddy build quality on these things and they are still an utterly fantastic deal for the Samsung PLS panels inside them. Relative to the $799 or whatever it costs to get a similar screen from a name brand like Asus or Dell. And overall yours sounds in really good shape!


You mentioned that my mom won't like me opening the monitor, I thought you were referring to the incident that I mentioned in my review about me being scared that my mom was going to put some cracks in my head, if the damage on the box during shipping damaged the monitor too.
Also, my monitor didn't ran the first time I ran it, so my mom was pissed but after replacing cables it worked fine.

I opened up the panel and it seems like the stand that is protruding out the monitor kinda pushes the panel from behind, when I rotate it.
So, its just a bad stand.
Yeah, the bleed is gone now.
I agree, for 330$ it's an awesome display, but it was still out of my budget. I was looking for a monitor in the range of 100$ but these babies were so tempting, I just had to dig my saving out.
Thanks for your concern though


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I know it's a lot of money but, again, apparently so worth it. And hopefully lasts many years, to state the obvious. The build quality shouldn't affect the lifespan at least and even if it somehow does such could probably be fixed by the owner in most cases.

I was just kidding around mentioning your Mom as, yeah, you did in your review a few times and I thought it was amusing.









For the hell of it I will leave mine tilted back for awhile but I really do think my source/cause must be different because squeezing the bezel around that area can have an effect on it though it does not totally remove it. More like pushes around and lessens. Same as angling forwards or back; just makes _less_ visible.

So I really do want to open mine to see if I can fix it...but I also really don't want to open it, you know? Just in case...


----------



## ssss69

Well it seems that my xstar is working correctly but, there is a little line in the middle of the screen which is shown in the blue wallpaper of windows. Whenever I start viewing photos I cant distinguish the line

Anyone knows what can the problem be? Is it enough to ask for an exchange?

Many thanks

Enviado desde mi GT-N7000 usando Tapatalk 2


----------



## DeadGivaway

I just found a wallpaper that some people were asking for way early on in this thread, it's a really colorful painting, here: http://wallbase.cc/wallpaper/2461463

And I'd still like to hear from anyone that had to fill out an FCC form for FedEx about what address you put for Qnix.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssss69*
> 
> Well it seems that my xstar is working correctly but, there is a little line in the middle of the screen which is shown in the blue wallpaper of windows. Whenever I start viewing photos I cant distinguish the line
> 
> Anyone knows what can the problem be? Is it enough to ask for an exchange?
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Enviado desde mi GT-N7000 usando Tapatalk 2


are you overclocked? If so they are scan lines. What are your Hz set at? What gpu you using?


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssss69*
> 
> Well it seems that my xstar is working correctly but, there is a little line in the middle of the screen which is shown in the blue wallpaper of windows. Whenever I start viewing photos I cant distinguish the line
> 
> Anyone knows what can the problem be? Is it enough to ask for an exchange?
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Enviado desde mi GT-N7000 usando Tapatalk 2


Maybe some stuck pixels, try to figure out if they are or not. Then if there are some stuck pixels, you can go to some websites that might help you unstick the pixels. If all else fails, send it back.


----------



## bhardy1185

Has anyone had a problem getting the monitor to turn on? Not sure if there is something special I have to do but it will not turn on at all. I have tried the supplied power cable with adapter and one of my own power cables. When I plug the power cord into the back on the monitor, there is a quick flash like it is wanting to turn on then just sits there dark. Hit the power button and nothing happens. The LED on the front never comes on. Do I need to open it up and check connections? Not too sure what to do. I see most everyone here bought theirs from ebay. I bought mine from amazon. Here is the listing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUI44US/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Any help would be nice. I will be gone most of the night but will check my phone and at work tomorrow to look at suggestions. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> Has anyone had a problem getting the monitor to turn on? Not sure if there is something special I have to do but it will not turn on at all. I have tried the supplied power cable with adapter and one of my own power cables. When I plug the power cord into the back on the monitor, there is a quick flash like it is wanting to turn on then just sits there dark. Hit the power button and nothing happens. The LED on the front never comes on. Do I need to open it up and check connections? Not too sure what to do. I see most everyone here bought theirs from ebay. I bought mine from amazon. Here is the listing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUI44US/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Any help would be nice. I will be gone most of the night but will check my phone and at work tomorrow to look at suggestions. Thanks in advance.


I'm assuming the green led on the power adapter is lit green if you saw a quick flash? was it a blue light you saw? What monitor you coming from them 25", If so i believe the last res you used was 1080p?

Try squeezing the power plug pins a bit closer mine just slid into the wall socket with minimal effort ( basically no contact) squeeze the 2 pins slightly together.


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> I'm assuming the green led on the power adapter is lit green if you saw a quick flash? was it a blue light you saw? What monitor you coming from them 25", If so i believe the last res you used was 1080p?
> 
> Try squeezing the power plug pins a bit closer mine just slid into the wall socket with minimal effort ( basically no contact) squeeze the 2 pins slightly together.


Yes, the green light on the brick is green. The flash I saw was a white-ish color. I would compare it to the bleed color in some of these photos. It is a white/yellow tint. Flashes the entire screen then turns black.

I am coming from the 25" screens. I actually have on still connected along with the Qnix. Strange thing is, the computer sees the screen, it just will not power on. I will attempt the squeezing of the prongs, but with it powering the brick, I wouldn't think that would be the cause.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> And I'd still like to hear from anyone that had to fill out an FCC form for FedEx about what address you put for Qnix.


No you are the first I am hearing of this. Who instructed you to do such?


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> Yes, the green light on the brick is green. The flash I saw was a white-ish color. I would compare it to the bleed color in some of these photos. It is a white/yellow tint. Flashes the entire screen then turns black.
> 
> I am coming from the 25" screens. I actually have on still connected along with the Qnix. Strange thing is, the computer sees the screen, it just will not power on. I will attempt the squeezing of the prongs, but with it powering the brick, I wouldn't think that would be the cause.


Your right, if the brick is lit, than everything else must be getting power, try flipping the dvi cable around see if you can get anything to show up.

Edit: reseat your power cord too.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No you are the first I am hearing of this. Who instructed you to do such?


Someone from FedEx asked me to. I think it went through customs ok even though I didn't have a street address for Qnix on the form.

Also, apparently it went to Alaska first instead of just flying in to LAX. I ordered it on Saturday, and of course Monday was the first day it was shipped, but estimated delivery day is next Monday according to FedEx. This is annoying. I don't even want to play any games at 60Hz anymore, lol.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Someone from FedEx asked me to. I think it went through customs ok even though I didn't have a street address for Qnix on the form.
> 
> Also, apparently it went to Alaska first instead of just flying in to LAX. I ordered it on Saturday, and of course Monday was the first day it was shipped, but estimated delivery day is next Monday according to FedEx. This is annoying. I don't even want to play any games at 60Hz anymore, lol.


Mine went through Alaska too. So what I gathered in 2 weeks i should be receiving a phone call? I'm ready to yell at em if they do. I've seen post that us (US) should not be getting charged customs, cause of the free trade embargo.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Just to clarify, the form they wanted me to fill out was FCC form 740. It basically is a declaration to the FCC about a device which may generate harmful RF interference. As long as you are buying 3 or less for personal use, you just check that box. There has been no indication that there will be any extra charges related to my order, nor do I expect any. Maybe it was unnecessary and someone at FedEx was just being a stickler or something. Anyways what I did since I couldn't find an address for Qnix, is I just put their website address, phone number, and a contact email in the box that asked for their address. It seems to have worked. Here's what my tracking info shows currently:
Quote:


> More actions #
> Travel History
> Help
> Hide
> Date/Time Activity Location
> -
> 
> 5/14/2013 - Tuesday
> 9:52 pm
> In transit
> 
> INCHEON KR
> 8:38 pm
> In transit
> 
> INCHEON KR
> 1:10 pm
> *International shipment release - Import*
> 
> ANCHORAGE, AK
> 12:35 pm
> Arrived at FedEx location
> 
> ANCHORAGE, AK
> -
> 
> 5/13/2013 - Monday
> 7:35 pm
> Left FedEx origin facility
> 
> BUSAN KR
> 4:44 pm
> Picked up
> 
> BUSAN KR
> 
> Package received after FedEx cutoff
> 2:57 am
> Shipment information sent to FedEx


I interpret the underlined part to mean that it was released for import into the country- that customs gave it the ok. Once I see an update in another state I will know for sure. This waiting is killing me!


----------



## FrostyAMD

Ok , I've got a coupla questions. I 've ordered 2 of the Qnix 2710, and want to run a dual monitor setup using a Asus GTX670. Will this work?? Think it'll handle overclocking?? Also hope to run games on one monitor while using the other for browsing and other work. Hope this will work without need for an sli config.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Q1: It should work just fine.

Q2: Overclocking may not work as well with both monitors attached.

Q3: The problem I had in the past with trying what you're talking about is losing mouse focus as soon as I moved the mouse too far towards the other monitor. Then if you click on your web browser, the game would minimize anyways.


----------



## tse69

How trustworthy is bigclothcraft?

Had a fairly borked QNIX 2710 arrive a while back, video here: 




As you can see, especially toward the end, the video signal is all messed up. I've got everything else right, tried multiple cables on multiple ports on my card (gtx 570). Hooked it up to a friend's PC, same result.

My understanding with modern monitors using digital signal is that they should just work, or not work at all.

So after much back-and-forth, I finally got them to pay for an exchange. Now they're telling me that the monitor is fine on their end.

Have I missed something? Driver issue somehow? Am I being trolled? I'm pretty close to opening a paypal reversal but then I look at all the positive comments about them, I have absolutely no reason to distrust them.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## MikeyTsunami

I did the Toastyx process to get OC but realized it was locked so I attempted to add the Catleap 2b driver so nvidia control panel would recognize the monitor as >60hz. Still locked at 60fps with or without v-sync according to MSI Afterburner and FRAPs. I've tried an assortment of games that I know aren't capped at 60 (bf3, cs:source, alan wake, etc.)

I'm running GTX 580 in SLI on Windows 8 if this helps narrow anything down.

I searched throughout the forum and couldn't find a fix so I hope I'm not beating a dead horse on this one!!


----------



## GoldenTiger

*QUESTION:* My X-Star DP2710 Matte has been running well at 112hz, but I noticed that it seems like colors starting at about the center of the screen, and towards the right, get slightly darker/dimmer the further towards the edge of the panel I look. It's not a big effect but it is a shade different, enough so that I'm slightly concerned. Is this par for the course with overclocking these things, or might something be going bad? I didn't notice the issue when I first got the monitor, but it could well have been there (and still appears if I downclock to 60hz). Since I noticed it, no worsening appears to be taking place. Thoughts?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tse69*
> 
> How trustworthy is bigclothcraft?
> 
> Had a fairly borked QNIX 2710 arrive a while back, video here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, especially toward the end, the video signal is all messed up. I've got everything else right, tried multiple cables on multiple ports on my card (gtx 570). Hooked it up to a friend's PC, same result.
> 
> My understanding with modern monitors using digital signal is that they should just work, or not work at all.
> 
> So after much back-and-forth, I finally got them to pay for an exchange. Now they're telling me that the monitor is fine on their end.
> 
> Have I missed something? Driver issue somehow? Am I being trolled? I'm pretty close to opening a paypal reversal but then I look at all the positive comments about them, I have absolutely no reason to distrust them.
> 
> Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.


That looks exactly like mine does if I overclock it JUST on the cusp of not displaying an image at all. I don't know if this is relevant, but I figured I'd throw it out there.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tse69*
> 
> How trustworthy is bigclothcraft?
> 
> Had a fairly borked QNIX 2710 arrive a while back, video here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, especially toward the end, the video signal is all messed up. I've got everything else right, tried multiple cables on multiple ports on my card (gtx 570). Hooked it up to a friend's PC, same result.
> 
> My understanding with modern monitors using digital signal is that they should just work, or not work at all.
> 
> So after much back-and-forth, I finally got them to pay for an exchange. Now they're telling me that the monitor is fine on their end. .


Bigclothcraft is one of the 'big' named sellers around here. If they jerk you around like this, I guess that will change.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeyTsunami*
> 
> I did the Toastyx process to get OC but realized it was locked so I attempted to add the Catleap 2b driver so nvidia control panel would recognize the monitor as >60hz. Still locked at 60fps with or without v-sync according to MSI Afterburner and FRAPs. I've tried an assortment of games that I know aren't capped at 60 (bf3, cs:source, alan wake, etc.)
> 
> I'm running GTX 580 in SLI on Windows 8 if this helps narrow anything down.
> 
> I searched throughout the forum and couldn't find a fix so I hope I'm not beating a dead horse on this one!!


Are you using the nvidia driver patch, as listed in the OP under "overclocking help"? And and nvidia have different patches


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tse69*
> 
> How trustworthy is bigclothcraft?
> 
> Had a fairly borked QNIX 2710 arrive a while back, video here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, especially toward the end, the video signal is all messed up. I've got everything else right, tried multiple cables on multiple ports on my card (gtx 570). Hooked it up to a friend's PC, same result.
> 
> My understanding with modern monitors using digital signal is that they should just work, or not work at all.
> 
> So after much back-and-forth, I finally got them to pay for an exchange. Now they're telling me that the monitor is fine on their end.
> 
> Have I missed something? Driver issue somehow? Am I being trolled? I'm pretty close to opening a paypal reversal but then I look at all the positive comments about them, I have absolutely no reason to distrust them.
> 
> Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.


The only thing I can think of is making sure you were using a Dual-Link DVI cable and not a Single-Link, but since you've tested with multiple cables I doubt that's the issue. I honestly have no idea what went wrong if the seller is claiming the monitor is fine.


----------



## tse69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Bigclothcraft is one of the 'big' named sellers around here. If they jerk you around like this, I guess that will change.


Yeah it's been two weeks of jerking around so far, but I guess it's typical of customer service on ebay when you're as big as these guys are.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> That looks exactly like mine does if I overclock it JUST on the cusp of not displaying an image at all. I don't know if this is relevant, but I figured I'd throw it out there.


Fair enough, though what you're seeing is default settings. For a lark I did try different settings (under and over) just to see what happened, same results though :| I keep being paranoid that maybe I missed something obvious, but every monitor I've ever known of simply works out of the box...


----------



## bhardy1185

Well after about an hour of fooling around with this monitor, I can't get it to turn on. An email has been sent to the seller on amazon. Waiting to hear back from them to see if they have any suggestions on what to do. If not, looks like I will be sending this one back for a replacement or refund. Just my luck.


----------



## DeadGivaway

When I first hooked up my Monoprice CrystalPro it didn't turn on. I quickly figured out that I hadn't pushed the power cable all the way into the brick. Maybe that will help someone.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> Well after about an hour of fooling around with this monitor, I can't get it to turn on. An email has been sent to the seller on amazon. Waiting to hear back from them to see if they have any suggestions on what to do. If not, looks like I will be sending this one back for a replacement or refund. Just my luck.


Did you try also just having that display hooked up to your gpu? unplug all other displays, even from the wall socket (tinfoil hat)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> When I first hooked up my Monoprice CrystalPro it didn't turn on. I quickly figured out that I hadn't pushed the power cable all the way into the brick. Maybe that will help someone.


On mine the power plug that goes into the monitor had to be re seated twice cause i felt it just want "grabbing" on.


----------



## tattashot

Mine just arrived. Found one dead pixel. But the more serious problem seems to be that the display seems to randomly turn off and on. This has just happened twice in one hour. The power brick seems to be making a noise as well. Have any of you guys been experiencing these issues?


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tattashot*
> 
> Mine just arrived. Found one dead pixel. But the more serious problem seems to be that the display seems to randomly turn off and on. This has just happened twice in one hour. The power brick seems to be making a noise as well. Have any of you guys been experiencing these issues?


Re-seat all cables, hopefully that helps!


----------



## tattashot

Coolio831, re-seating all the cables didn't help. Does your power unit make any noise? Mine sounds like it may be crapping out.


----------



## qweasd

New owner of the Qnix monitor, bought pixel perfect from green-sum. Came with no dead pixels, but had some backlight bleeding that was bothering me in movies at dark scenes.

What I did was open the monitor from the front only and put a folded paper handkerchief behind the LCD panel near the bleed area, so it would put pressure on the panel and push it towards the front, then I just closed it up again. Before this I checked the monitor by putting pressure on some spots and noticed that bleeding disappears if I touch the right spot.

There is still some little bleed, also in other parts, but very minor, but now it's quite a bit better.

First picture is before, the other two are after.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tattashot*
> 
> Coolio831, re-seating all the cables didn't help. Does your power unit make any noise? Mine sounds like it may be crapping out.


Time for a new power brick then, mine doesn't have that problem.


----------



## Deeya

Quick question on the overclocking, the guide says to copy and paste the default profile. It's just when I hit copy, I cannot paste to make a second profile to edit.

Am I supposd to "Add" a new profile, and if so which timing do I choose?


----------



## furyau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> Quick question on the overclocking, the guide says to copy and paste the default profile. It's just when I hit copy, I cannot paste to make a second profile to edit.
> 
> Am I supposd to "Add" a new profile, and if so which timing do I choose?


Go add and then paste the profile into your new one.


----------



## UNOE

Do these power bricks come with US plugs or do you just switch out a old monitor cable with the brick when you get the monitor ?


----------



## Deeya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Do these power bricks come with US plugs or do you just switch out a old monitor cable with the brick when you get the monitor ?


They come with an adapter, but I used an old PSU cable and it worked fine without having to use the Korean to u.s. outlet adapter.


----------



## falco216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeya*
> 
> They come with an adapter, but I used an old PSU cable and it worked fine without having to use the Korean to u.s. outlet adapter.


The Qnix has a standard c14 power input?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> *QUESTION:* My X-Star DP2710 Matte has been running well at 112hz, but I noticed that it seems like colors starting at about the center of the screen, and towards the right, get slightly darker/dimmer the further towards the edge of the panel I look. It's not a big effect but it is a shade different, enough so that I'm slightly concerned. Is this par for the course with overclocking these things, or might something be going bad? I didn't notice the issue when I first got the monitor, but it could well have been there (and still appears if I downclock to 60hz). Since I noticed it, no worsening appears to be taking place. Thoughts?


Anyone else with this issue, or is it normal even? It starts looking almost completely uniform but once it's been on a few minutes this happens to a degree then stays that way until powered off (it doesn't change past a certain point).


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falco216*
> 
> The Qnix has a standard c14 power input?


Yes, my X-Star DP2710 took a normal grounded US computer/monitor cord (C14 connector) on the power brick socket. I used that instead of the included adapter.


----------



## falco216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Yes, my X-Star DP2710 took a normal grounded US computer/monitor cord (C14 connector) on the power brick socket. I used that instead of the included adapter.


This is good to hear, I really don't trust those power bricks they ship with them.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falco216*
> 
> This is good to hear, I really don't trust those power bricks they ship with them.


Sorry, to clarify the standard jack is on the power brick, which then goes into the monitor. For what it's worth (probably not a lot), the brick claims to be UL-listed and has the FCC logo on it







.


----------



## falco216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Sorry, to clarify the standard jack is on the power brick, which then goes into the monitor. For what it's worth (probably not a lot), the brick claims to be UL-listed and has the FCC logo on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well, if it's "UL-listed and has the FCC logo" I guess I'll trust it since it's probably just a standard power brick with different pins on it.


----------



## mspamed

I though my gtx 560 wasn't capable of overclocking above 96Hz but I believe its because the Pixel Clock reaches 400 MHz which is the limit.
I have patched the driver but still it doesn't seem to allow me to cross that mark.
Any one know what I might be doing wrong...


----------



## grandpatzer

Is Qnix and X-star equal component & build quality?
The Qnix is more popular and cost 15usd/10£ more.... It is listed as 6ms GtG while X-Star is 8ms.

I currently have a [email protected]@1-2ms, not sure if getting the Qnix/X-star is overkill for single player games & casual gaming.

Which sellers are best if I want to avoid high import charges?


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grandpatzer*
> 
> Is Qnix and X-star equal component & build quality?
> The Qnix is more popular and cost 15usd/10£ more.... It is listed as 6ms GtG while X-Star is 8ms.
> 
> I currently have a [email protected]@1-2ms, not sure if getting the Qnix/X-star is overkill for single player games & casual gaming.
> 
> Which sellers are best if I want to avoid high import charges?


I have the x-starand in their manual it states having a 6ms response time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brien*
> 
> Even if a monitor has some back light bleed/dead pixels, do you guys think they are still a stealt? Also, I'm undecided between Glossy and Matte. My current monitor is Matte, but I've also never had glossy. Any input?


Backlight bleed won't bother you unless you are watching a movie like batman and that too at very high brightness.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I though my gtx 560 wasn't capable of overclocking above 96Hz but I believe its because the Pixel Clock reaches 400 MHz which is the limit.
> I have patched the driver but still it doesn't seem to allow me to cross that mark.
> Any one know what I might be doing wrong...


Nevermind this previous post of mine.
I finally went past the 400MHz mark and also was able to overclock my monitor upto 137Hz with screen jiggling a bit and also some horizontal lines. It never went beyond 137Hz till now and the highest yet most stable OC I achieved was 134Hz.

Please refer to my review, link in my signature, to know about the entire thing in details.


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Did you try also just having that display hooked up to your gpu? unplug all other displays, even from the wall socket (tinfoil hat)


I have not tried this. Thought about it but didn't try it. Got too frustrated last night that I just gave up. I have been sent an email from the seller asking for my system details. Hoping they can come up with a solution. I will report back once I hear from them.


----------



## grandpatzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> If both the panels look same then I would say choose anyone.
> I love my x-star especially the glossy bezel is beautiful and the monitor doesn't look cheap at all, unless the person touches it and it starts to wobble.


So the X-Star wobble?

Is Qnix bezel matte while X-star is glossy?


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grandpatzer*
> 
> So the X-Star wobble?
> 
> Is Qnix bezel matte while X-star is glossy?


The bezels are same and both the monitors suffer from a week casing, so the qnix will wobble too.
But that all right, it not like a jello you have to like poke it a bit hardly to notice the wobble. Typing or even punching the table won't shake it. It also depends on you table though.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> I though my gtx 560 wasn't capable of overclocking above 96Hz but I believe its because the Pixel Clock reaches 400 MHz which is the limit.
> I have patched the driver but still it doesn't seem to allow me to cross that mark.
> Any one know what I might be doing wrong...


I thought you said you had no intention of overclocking. What made you change your mind?


----------



## Paps.pt

I'm in Panic! Bought mine from green sum, Portuguese customs won't release it without a European Union Certificate! It seems that for electric equipment which requires more than 50 volts it's obligatory to have that. I sent him a message but I bet that neither the seller or the company that makes them has it! :-(
To anyone that imported it from European Union, how did you made it? Please help...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I still don't know if this actually applies to a computer monitor and no one else has mentioned this but for DC it's 75 volts apparently. Which these still may be...but this still sounds fishy offhand.

http://www.conformance.co.uk/adirectives/doku.php?id=lowvoltage

In other fantastic QNIX-related news...mine is back to doing nothing at all besides flash red then green then go black. Same as when I tried that other cable though last time switching back to stock got me an image back. Now I can't get it to do **** after many hours. Have confirmed that my card is still outputting a signal with my old display. Power brick is still green. Am going to keep messing with it of course but there isn't really anything I haven't already tried (short of the funky adapter it shipped with and that thing should not be necessary, period). Glad I didn't actually break it or something but sure wish I could explain this, too...


----------



## bhazard451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I still don't know if this actually applies to a computer monitor and no one else has mentioned this but for DC it's 75 volts apparently. Which these still may be...but this still sounds fishy offhand.
> 
> http://www.conformance.co.uk/adirectives/doku.php?id=lowvoltage
> 
> In other fantastic QNIX-related news...mine is back to doing nothing at all besides flash red then green then go black. Same as when I tried that other cable though last time switching back to stock got me an image back. Now I can't get it to do **** after many hours. Have confirmed that my card is still outputting a signal with my old display. Power brick is still green. Am going to keep messing with it of course but there isn't really anything I haven't already tried (short of the funky adapter it shipped with and that thing should not be necessary, period). Glad I didn't actually break it or something but sure wish I could explain this, too...


Do you get a boot screen showing, and then it happens? You wiped out your settings in CRU if it only happens in Windows. Happened to me once when I left CRU blank in the resolutions section.


----------



## bhazard451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robinsolid*
> 
> I've bought my QNIX 2710...but VERY DISAPPOINTED. Monitor faulty and seller VERY uncommunicative....I'll give this one to my brother and will buy another one


Without explaining the issue, who you bought it from, and what graphics card you are using, no one is going to take you seriously.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhazard451*
> 
> Do you get a boot screen showing, and then it happens? You wiped out your settings in CRU if it only happens in Windows. Happened to me once when I left CRU blank in the resolutions section.


No, man, no bios no nothing. This is not a software problem. No video signal but it is getting power and the panel itself not dead as displays those colors. I do have another PC I can try but my main rig is apparently not the specific problem. I can also bring another DVD-D cable home but both of mine test out fine with my old display.

The most unsettling part is how it just came out of nowhere.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I thought you said you had no intention of overclocking. What made you change your mind?


The curiosity got the best of me. I just wanna know how high it can go








I got to 135 stable but that's not what I am going to run my pc on. I have returned to stock 60Hz and yeah I do agree that the smoothness, even on the mouse curser, is amazing. I get kinda emotional with my gadgets and for some reason OCing something makes me feel guilty, as if I am exploiting someone just beacause they can't say anything :|
I know it sounds crazy but well that's me.
BTW I can get to 144Hz stable with no flickering or anything on 1080p resolution, but that causes only the 1920x1080p segment to show the windows the rest of the screen shows weird colours. You don't select 1080p resolution, you select 2560x1440 and then in the custom resolution in nvidia you set the timing manually. In the timing windows you change 2560 to 1920 and 1440 to 1080.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I'm in Panic! Bought mine from green sum, Portuguese customs won't release it without a European Union Certificate! It seems that for electric equipment which requires more than 50 volts it's obligatory to have that. I sent him a message but I bet that neither the seller or the company that makes them has it! :-(
> To anyone that imported it from European Union, how did you made it? Please help...


That's new...
I hope someone can help you out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I still don't know if this actually applies to a computer monitor and no one else has mentioned this but for DC it's 75 volts apparently. Which these still may be...but this still sounds fishy offhand.
> 
> http://www.conformance.co.uk/adirectives/doku.php?id=lowvoltage
> 
> In other fantastic QNIX-related news...mine is back to doing nothing at all besides flash red then green then go black. Same as when I tried that other cable though last time switching back to stock got me an image back. Now I can't get it to do **** after many hours. Have confirmed that my card is still outputting a signal with my old display. Power brick is still green. Am going to keep messing with it of course but there isn't really anything I haven't already tried (short of the funky adapter it shipped with and that thing should not be necessary, period). Glad I didn't actually break it or something but sure wish I could explain this, too...


When did you purchased it?
I believe its the DVI Cable or the port it self.
That thing is too heavy and might be putting a lot of weight on the ports, I have taped both the ends of the cable, one to my monitor and one to my cabinet, to reduce pressure on the port.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robinsolid*
> 
> I've bought my QNIX 2710...but VERY DISAPPOINTED. Monitor faulty and seller VERY uncommunicative....I'll give this one to my brother and will buy another one


Whats the fault, maybe we might be able to help, except for dead pixels there havn't been many faults with these monitors which can't be fixed by a consumer.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I knew you would at least try to OC it and, if you hadn't, I would have been disappointed! Hmm I will look more closely at the port, thanks. Again, this first happened when I tried the seemingly higher quality cable which is also heavier. But nothing changed this time that should have caused this (or anything, for that matter). I did have it's cable disconnected from my GPU between the last time it worked and now so I could clean my loop and de-dust but that's it. It stayed powered off with red LED during this time.


----------



## brightbus

I need to see if I can get to 144hz or not. I got to 122 no problem. Havent tried any higher yet.


----------



## tattashot

Well my issue with the power unit still persists. I've noticed that at maximum brightness the unit makes a weird noise like something may be burning inside ( but there is no smell) and the monitor itself will randomly turn off and back on every few minutes. If I turn the monitor to half brightness then I get none of those issues.

I emailed the seller green-sum last evening but he hasn't responded back yet.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I knew you would at least try to OC it and, if you hadn't, I would have been disappointed! Hmm I will look more closely at the port, thanks. Again, this first happened when I tried the seemingly higher quality cable which is also heavier. But nothing changed this time that should have caused this (or anything, for that matter). I did have it's cable disconnected from my GPU between the last time it worked and now so I could clean my loop and de-dust but that's it. It stayed powered off with red LED during this time.


If you have another monitor you can use, let's try this:

Boot up with the other monitor. Once in Windows, reset the pixel clock and everything back to stock. Delete the custom resolution for the Qnix, just in case. With the Qnix powered off, hook it up to the dvi port. Turn Qnix on. See if windows detects it (probably requires a reboot). Reboot. Display properties, see if it shows both monitors.

I'm also thinking you may have an issue with a poor soldering job on the DVI port, and maybe when you tried the other cable the solder was damaged. Anyways man don't panic I'll do what I can to help.









Edit: Also very important: I learned the hard way with my Sceptre, *DVI is not hot-swappable. Never attach or disconnect a DVI port with the monitor powered on!!!*


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> *Updated 15th May 8:55 PM Indian Standard Time.
> This is a super long post with details that might have nothing to do with this monitors review. I shared everything I felt was worth it.*
> 
> _*The OverClocking:*
> 
> OC'ed to 96Hz on my GTX 560. Doesn't go above 400Hz, even with the patch and CRU. It might not just be my GFX alone even my other specs are quite average.
> OC'ed to 120Hz on a borrowed GTX 680. With nVidia control panel and patched drivers. Didn't tested for anything higher, didn't got much time to play with the card.
> 
> *Update:* The reason my GTX 560 didn't went above 400MHz was that the test mode was just visible on the desktop but it was never started for some reason.
> So, these are the steps I took:
> Reinstalled the drivers.
> Patched the drivers.
> Patched the SLI limits too, just in case.
> Started the Test Mode.
> Restarted the PC.
> Created a 120 Hz custom Resolution in nVidia Control Panel and choose Automatic Timing.
> It ran perfectly smooth.
> I decided to see the highest I could go.
> I went to 130Hz it wasn't supported.
> So I changed the timing to manual and copied the information from this thread http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide
> I choose 130Hz instead of 120Hz and it was stable.
> I went to 134 and it was stable too.
> I went to 136 and started seeing one horizontal line in the center
> At 137 the Screen Jiggled vertically and the lies increased to 5 -6.
> I couldn't go higher then that.
> I am running my monitor at 134 now but its only for testing and bragging rights.
> I will run it at 60Hz normally.
> 
> [._


I was able to reach 120Hz with your method, I guess test mode was not enabled after all, even though it showed test mode. I'm happily sitting on 120Hz from the 100Hz limit i thought I had. +1


----------



## Hegro

Hello, I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction. I originally was going to buy a Tempest 27" monitor but plans have changed and I am in the market for a QNIX. I have heard good things and like what I see so far. I am ready to buy today just want some input before I purchase.

What is currently the best priced/value/safest seller to buy a Perfect Pixel Matte Qnix QX2710 from? I have always heard good things about Green-Sum and hulustar as well. Last couple pages on here has someone receiving a bad monitor from bigclothcraft.

Once again, ready to buy today and would like to keep it under $350. Thanks for any help guys!


----------



## DeadGivaway

I ordered this one on Saturday: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixels-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-LED-Monitor-2560x1440-/321115357309?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac3f7807d

It's currently on the truck for delivery. I'll report in when I've messed with it a bit.

Generally, the "perfect pixels" thing is a bit of a fib anyways and your chances of dead pixels are the same. I got this one because unlike many sellers, red-cap isn't charging any extra for the "perfect pixels" version. But do read the description for how they define that to see what I mean.

Basically don't pay extra for the perfect pixel nonsense.


----------



## fagoatse

can somebody confirm that there's a ~0.2 cm black bar going across the top edge so the panel actually does not fill the whole screen?


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> I ordered this one on Saturday: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixels-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-LED-Monitor-2560x1440-/321115357309?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac3f7807d
> 
> It's currently on the truck for delivery. I'll report in when I've messed with it a bit.
> 
> Generally, the "perfect pixels" thing is a bit of a fib anyways and your chances of dead pixels are the same. I got this one because unlike many sellers, red-cap isn't charging any extra for the "perfect pixels" version. But do read the description for how they define that to see what I mean.
> 
> Basically don't pay extra for the perfect pixel nonsense.


I realize the Perfect Pixel thing is sometimes a crock. If I can guarantee I will have absolutely no dead/stuck pixels then that is worth $30 to me. And yes I realize that it might mean 0-1 dead pixel guarantee over 0-3 or whatever. Yes I realize the pixels are extremely small on a 2560x1440 monitor. I am not an idiot. Just willing to pay more to guarantee I can receive the best quality monitor possible for the price.

Thank you very much for the link, it is on my list of possible buys now. Looking for more options/opinions. Thanks!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cool; that's all good standard troubleshooting...but again I'm almost certain it is not Windows or any software. I do still have my GTX 480 I can try as well though at this point I am definitely leaning towards it being the physical integrity of the port itself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> can somebody confirm that there's a ~0.2 cm black bar going across the top edge so the panel actually does not fill the whole screen?


No sounds like this means your panel needs to be raised. Mine does too (middle task bar icons lower than those on edges) but it is not so low that any image is cut off on the top.


----------



## fagoatse

hmm, check the pic i found in this thread - http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/lightbox/post/19959799/id/1459573
exactly like this, so not everybody got it? either it happend when i was trying to get rid of light bleeding by moving the monitor a bit or it's been always there and im being paranoid.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Hello, I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction. I originally was going to buy a Tempest 27" monitor but plans have changed and I am in the market for a QNIX. I have heard good things and like what I see so far. I am ready to buy today just want some input before I purchase.
> 
> What is currently the best priced/value/safest seller to buy a Perfect Pixel Matte Qnix QX2710 from? I have always heard good things about Green-Sum and hulustar as well. Last couple pages on here has someone receiving a bad monitor from bigclothcraft.
> 
> Once again, ready to buy today and would like to keep it under $350. Thanks for any help guys!


I woud say dream-seller, was in constant contact with as the monitor i had chosen was sold out, so i settled for a Matte instead of Glossy, he/she was quick to reply back to any questions or concerns i had. I ordered a pixel perfect and i got a perfect monitor minus very minor bottom blb. 120Hz without a sweat.


----------



## Paps.pt

To who ever ordered this monitor and lives in the European Union: did customs asked you any Certificate?


----------



## Gilgam3sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> To who ever ordered this monitor and lives in the European Union: did customs asked you any Certificate?


nope, no problem at all.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes I think you need to be talking to the customs officials and asking why you need such a thing. Tell him the seller has said they have never needed this before and you believe they are mistaken. This is a consumer electronic device not some industrial electrical component or something.


----------



## Paps.pt

Can someone point me to the manual pdf of the monitor or check if there is CE printed on it, please?


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Can someone point me to the manual pdf of the monitor or check if there is CE printed on it, please?


Page 15, 2nd to last colum:, Euroopean CE - Yes. That what you looking for?


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Page 15, 2nd to last colum:, Euroopean CE - Yes. That what you looking for?


Thanks M8. That means it follows europeans standards. I hope that is enough to prove it.
I dont get it, I ckeck OP first post and there other guys who ordered from european countries (UK, Sweden, France, Neederlands) and no certificate was ask by customs...


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> I realize the Perfect Pixel thing is sometimes a crock. If I can guarantee I will have absolutely no dead/stuck pixels then that is worth $30 to me. And yes I realize that it might mean 0-1 dead pixel guarantee over 0-3 or whatever. Yes I realize the pixels are extremely small on a 2560x1440 monitor. I am not an idiot. Just willing to pay more to guarantee I can receive the best quality monitor possible for the price.
> 
> Thank you very much for the link, it is on my list of possible buys now. Looking for more options/opinions. Thanks!


If lots of people had 4 or 5 dead pixels then yes, the pixel perfect premium might be justified but I don't think anybody who's bought one has reported more than 1 dead pixel. Most of the "perfect pixel" guarantees allow for 1 or 2 dead pixels anyway.

Not sure if the promotion is still running but hulustar had a 0-2 dead pixel offer for the first 100 monitors. Email him to check, he responds pretty quickly.


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> To who ever ordered this monitor and lives in the European Union: did customs asked you any Certificate?


Nope, just got a bill from DHL for the customs/VAT.


----------



## strong island 1

Which ones would you guys recommend. The X-Star or QNIX. They are both almost the same price.

Do you guys just go to bigclothcraft ebay page and order. Do you just go to the page and pick the one you want from the top of the list.

Sorry I have never ordered from ebay before.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Thanks M8. That means it follows europeans standards. I hope that is enough to prove it.
> I dont get it, I ckeck OP first post and there other guys who ordered from european countries (UK, Sweden, France, Neederlands) and no certificate was ask by customs...


Well the first answer that comes to mind is this guy plans to come back and say "oh you can't get the certificate? Hmm...well...no problem I guess... if you give me 50 Euros".

Who knows for sure but I would not be surprised, to say the least. Hope you get it sorted soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Which ones would you guys recommend. The X-Star or QNIX. They are both almost the same price.
> 
> Do you guys just go to bigclothcraft ebay page and order. Do you just go to the page and pick the one you want from the top of the list.
> 
> Sorry I have never ordered from ebay before.


If that's the seller you know you want to use then sure. Otherwise search for the product name itself.


----------



## Cwinston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> If lots of people had 4 or 5 dead pixels then yes, the pixel perfect premium might be justified but I don't think anybody who's bought one has reported more than 1 dead pixel. Most of the "perfect pixel" guarantees allow for 1 or 2 dead pixels anyway.
> 
> Not sure if the promotion is still running but hulustar had a 0-2 dead pixel offer for the first 100 monitors. Email him to check, he responds pretty quickly.


I bought one from hulustar during the 0-2 pixel deal and it had 2 stuck pixels. Kinda wondered if they just keep the units that nearly passed perfect pixel test in a pile. The stuck pixels weren't easy to notice, and appeared under different colour backgrounds, so you never see both at the same time.

I went for a second Qnix, but this time from excellentcastle. Also this time I went for a regular auction and not a perfect pixel or 0-2 pixel auction, just to test my luck at getting a 0 dead pixel unit. I saw that many people here had 0 dead pixels from regular auctions anyway.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I knew you would at least try to OC it and, if you hadn't, I would have been disappointed! Hmm I will look more closely at the port, thanks. Again, this first happened when I tried the seemingly higher quality cable which is also heavier. But nothing changed this time that should have caused this (or anything, for that matter). I did have it's cable disconnected from my GPU between the last time it worked and now so I could clean my loop and de-dust but that's it. It stayed powered off with red LED during this time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> If you have another monitor you can use, let's try this:
> 
> Boot up with the other monitor. Once in Windows, reset the pixel clock and everything back to stock. Delete the custom resolution for the Qnix, just in case. With the Qnix powered off, hook it up to the dvi port. Turn Qnix on. See if windows detects it (probably requires a reboot). Reboot. Display properties, see if it shows both monitors.
> 
> I'm also thinking you may have an issue with a poor soldering job on the DVI port, and maybe when you tried the other cable the solder was damaged. Anyways man don't panic I'll do what I can to help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also very important: I learned the hard way with my Sceptre, *DVI is not hot-swappable. Never attach or disconnect a DVI port with the monitor powered on!!!*


Yup, swapping dvi ports like that could have fried something. Try to use an eraser and rub it on the pins hard. I know its kinda stupid but just try it.
Not just DVI, when it comes to monitors and also your graphic card you should never hot swap.
Also, please check, on your own responsibility, when the monitor is on, without the cable attached to the Graphic card, does touching your fingers to the dvi male pins of the DVI cable gives you a shock. I repeat, on your own responsibility, it's a 27" monitor, if your ground circuit isn't connected the shock can be either just tingly or very bad. Or you can always use professional tools to do that.
If you do get a shock then you have definitely damaged the port and or cable while swapping. That's if you are lucky. I blew 2 capacitors on my gt 8600 once while swapping a VGA port.
Also, if trying the touching the pins technique I would recommend having someone around and recording it. If the shock is pretty bad then the video will be pretty awesome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I need to see if I can get to 144hz or not. I got to 122 no problem. Haven't tried any higher yet.


I would recommend people stick too 120Hz or 96Hz. Simply because we don't know the long term effects of OCing on these PCB's. Also, 120 is more then enough for your daily use, movie watching and gaming needs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tattashot*
> 
> Well my issue with the power unit still persists. I've noticed that at maximum brightness the unit makes a weird noise like something may be burning inside ( but there is no smell) and the monitor itself will randomly turn off and back on every few minutes. If I turn the monitor to half brightness then I get none of those issues.
> 
> I emailed the seller green-sum last evening but he hasn't responded back yet.


The power brick is definitely faulty here, making noice is ok. It might be a bad capacitor or a resistor. It just means, it is gonna die soon in like 5 - 6 months. But the switching on off thing can cause a serious issue. I will recommend getting a new brick right away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> I was able to reach 120Hz with your method, I guess test mode was not enabled after all, even though it showed test mode. I'm happily sitting on 120Hz from the 100Hz limit i thought I had. +1


You Sir, are welcome!!! Appreciate the +1...Enjoy!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Hello, I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction. I originally was going to buy a Tempest 27" monitor but plans have changed and I am in the market for a QNIX. I have heard good things and like what I see so far. I am ready to buy today just want some input before I purchase.
> 
> What is currently the best priced/value/safest seller to buy a Perfect Pixel Matte Qnix QX2710 from? I have always heard good things about Green-Sum and hulustar as well. Last couple pages on here has someone receiving a bad monitor from bigclothcraft.
> 
> Once again, ready to buy today and would like to keep it under $350. Thanks for any help guys!


I would recommend going with an X-Star, not because I purchased it but because I have read all the korean monitor forums and everytime a new brand comes out, all the monitors at first turn out to be great, like yamakasi, crossover, shimian, qnix and now the X-star.
In the poll above you can see that x-star users are a lot less and thats exactly the reason why I brought the x-star.
There was a shipping invoice on my monitor and there was another shipping invoice on the inside and my box was opened up before which was clear, check my review for details, lined in my signature. So, the monitor was shipped to the seller who then checked and shipped it to me.
So, if they want more sales they will need good reviews, so most of the earliest purchases are the best handpicked monitors.
Now think about it, my monitor wasn't pixel perfect, so why did he checked my monitor?
So they basically check all the monitors and the one's that are dead on arrival are sent back but the one's with light bleed and dead pixels are left behind cause the Korean policy on dead pixels is that up to 10 are allowed.
Now you ask yourself, if you were a businessman would you sell the perfect monitors first and try to create a hype on this forum, which by the way is a goldmine of free promotion for these companies, or would you send out those monitors with 10 dead pixels???
With some devine help, I ended up with a perfect pixel monitor, no bleed, no tint, amazing screen, very stiff stand and a great power brick, which doesn't get hot and makes no sound. Which I easily OCed to 120 and later to 135 stable and at 1920 x 1080 it reaches 144hz stable. All this for 309.9$ and free shipping and 25% cutom duty which wasn't much as Green-Sum had marked it at a lower value.
If I were you, I would consider the X-star and I will order it quick.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> can somebody confirm that there's a ~0.2 cm black bar going across the top edge so the panel actually does not fill the whole screen?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> hmm, check the pic i found in this thread - http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/lightbox/post/19959799/id/1459573
> exactly like this, so not everybody got it? either it happend when i was trying to get rid of light bleeding by moving the monitor a bit or it's been always there and im being paranoid.


Yup, I have it too and yeah that's is my monitors pic, its pretty easy to fix but I never notice it so I never added the tapes when I opened the monitor up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cool; that's all good standard troubleshooting...but again I'm almost certain it is not Windows or any software. I do still have my GTX 480 I can try as well though at this point I am definitely leaning towards it being the physical integrity of the port itself.
> No sounds like this means your panel needs to be raised. Mine does too (middle task bar icons lower than those on edges) but it is not so low that any image is cut off on the top.


nVidia drivers are notorious to leaves behind residue. As a last alternative, I will definitely recommend doing a clean install of windows on either a new drive or a different pc before you even think about sending it back, cause they will obviously check it on a clean install and if it works they won't pay you shipping and might return the same monitor.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> To who ever ordered this monitor and lives in the European Union: did customs asked you any Certificate?


Wow!!! no help yet. Has no one from European Union ordered this thing yet?!?!?!


----------



## mspamed

Sorry, double post.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Can someone point me to the manual pdf of the monitor or check if there is CE printed on it, please?


There is, as well as my power brick.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> can somebody confirm that there's a ~0.2 cm black bar going across the top edge so the panel actually does not fill the whole screen?


Each edge around the screen has a gap that has no image, It is just how the screen is built. Sounds like your screen is sitting low in the monitor casing. Take a look at the wntrsnowg mod in the OP


----------



## Hegro

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-Matte-Screen-QHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-2560x1440-DVI-D-/130889054084?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e79987784

Okay, I am going to be purchasing this monitor within the next hour or so. At least by tonight. Can anyone give me reason to get something else or steer me towards another seller? Thanks.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No that looks good. Nice price too; paid $317 from same seller for my QNIX two weeks ago.

@mspamed Good advice but I am telling you guys this is not software. I could accomplish the same by booting a Linux LiveCD or any other OS. Cant even see my BIOS. My card does output BIOS screen to another monitor though that was only 1280x1024.

I am confident it is my DVI port somehow; I just hope I can rectify it.


----------



## Lazdaa

As for people looking for sellers, i'm most likely buying this one next week: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/111070644047?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19dc53874f


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tse69*
> 
> How trustworthy is bigclothcraft?
> 
> Had a fairly borked QNIX 2710 arrive a while back, video here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, especially toward the end, the video signal is all messed up. I've got everything else right, tried multiple cables on multiple ports on my card (gtx 570). Hooked it up to a friend's PC, same result.
> 
> My understanding with modern monitors using digital signal is that they should just work, or not work at all.
> 
> So after much back-and-forth, I finally got them to pay for an exchange. Now they're telling me that the monitor is fine on their end.
> 
> Have I missed something? Driver issue somehow? Am I being trolled? I'm pretty close to opening a paypal reversal but then I look at all the positive comments about them, I have absolutely no reason to distrust them.
> 
> Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.


I'm not sure if this is for everyone but my monitor in resolution controls says "1. Display device on: DVI" and under Devices and Printers it just says "Generic PNP Monitor". Is this the same for you and others or does it say QNIX QX2710 etc..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah Generic PnP unless you install an INF like the Catleap 2B OC one that people not using the CRU need for games to use the higher refresh. "Monitor driver" INFs simply tell the OS what resolutions and Hz the display supports. CRU takes care of all that for you, apparently.

Well I managed to get a 1600P 30" working at work that was giving me signal trouble as well. Hopefully my luck continues at home.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah Generic PnP unless you install an INF like the Catleap 2B OC one that people not using the CRU need for games to use the higher refresh. "Monitor driver" INFs simply tell the OS what resolutions and Hz the display supports. CRU takes care of all that for you, apparently.
> 
> Well I managed to get a 1600P 30" working at work that was giving me signal trouble as well. Hopefully my luck continues at home.


For some reason, when I used CRU my frames would cap at 60. I did have the Catleap 2B OC inf installed tho... I ended up using the NVCP to set my Hz and ultimately resorted in 120fps cap with v-sync.


----------



## Hegro

Just ordered my X-Star DP2710 Matte. Ordered a clamp monitor stand for my desk as well. Anything else I should be ordering or that I am leaving out? I didn't even think about it but should I purchase an american plug that connects to the power brick? I realize that they send you an adapter but I feel like I would be safer having the american plug.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-Matte-Screen-QHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-2560x1440-DVI-D-/130889054084?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e79987784

This is the item that I just ordered, thanks.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Just ordered my X-Star DP2710 Matte. Ordered a clamp monitor stand for my desk as well. Anything else I should be ordering or that I am leaving out? I didn't even think about it but should I *purchase an american plug* that connects to the power brick? I realize that they send you an adapter but I feel like I would be safer having the american plug.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-Matte-Screen-QHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-2560x1440-DVI-D-/130889054084?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e79987784
> 
> This is the item that I just ordered, thanks.


Yes, please do.


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> Yes, please do.


http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228

Okay, can you or someone else tell me what I need? Thanks. I thought I might have an extra one laying around but I do not. Thanks


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No that looks good. Nice price too; paid $317 from same seller for my QNIX two weeks ago.
> 
> @mspamed Good advice but I am telling you guys this is not software. I could accomplish the same by booting a Linux LiveCD or any other OS. Cant even see my BIOS. My card does output BIOS screen to another monitor though that was only 1280x1024.
> 
> I am confident it is my DVI port somehow; I just hope I can rectify it.


Hmmm, its just the monitor starts, so I doubt its the monitor you know.
It has to be either your dvi, your gfx or your software and as far as your posts are concerned yeah your gfx and software seems to be fine.


----------



## DeadGivaway

My monitor arrived. Quite a bit of panel play, one stuck pixel, BLB looks fairly minor, although I'll test that later after I've fixed the panel play with tape.

Picture is impressive, although it was a bit oversaturated at stock. I'm still testing 120Hz gaming. Amalur was stuttering even though EVGA Precision was reporting 115-120FPS. Grid looks excellent. Borderlands is noticeably smoother, especially when scoping.

To determine if I really need to run at 120Hz, I'm going to keep it at 120 for a week or two so I get used to it, then I'll go down to 96 and see if I can tell the difference.

Now I just need to figure out how to coax 80+ fps out of my system in the STALKER games and I'll be set.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228
> 
> Okay, can you or someone else tell me what I need? Thanks. I thought I might have an extra one laying around but I do not. Thanks


I honestly wouldn't use anything Korean(besides the monitor obviously), lol. A new power prick and DVI-D cable just to be safe as well.


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> I honestly wouldn't use anything Korean(besides the monitor obviously), lol. A new power prick and DVI-D cable just to be safe as well.


Could you link me something that I should buy then or what people are buying for their monitors? I have no idea on this and usually buy all my cables from monoprice.









I didn't realize people were replacing the entire power brick. I always see people complaining about buzzing power bricks or faulty power bricks. Didn't realize you could just replace them. Lol. People shouldn't be *****ing then.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> I honestly wouldn't use anything Korean(besides the monitor obviously), lol. A new *power prick* and DVI-D cable just to be safe as well.


Me and the woman saw a bunch of those at the store when we were shopping for condoms the other day.









Seriously though, I don't recommend using a different power brick than the one supplied with the monitor. Also, it seems like the included DVI cable works better for most people, so I wouldn't swap that either unless something is wrong with it. What you want is a generic PC power cord, the same kind that comes with any power supply. Check out this page: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228

The length is up to you, but don't get excessive length if you don't need to. I recommend 16AWG just in case. That number relates to the thickness and it is a gauge measure, meaning the cables are thicker the lower you go on that number.


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Me and the woman saw a bunch of those at the store when we were shopping for condoms the other day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, I don't recommend using a different power brick than the one supplied with the monitor. Also, it seems like the included DVI cable works better for most people, so I wouldn't swap that either unless something is wrong with it. What you want is a generic PC power cord, the same kind that comes with any power supply. Check out this page: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228
> 
> The length is up to you, but don't get excessive length if you don't need to. I recommend 16AWG just in case. That number relates to the thickness and it is a gauge measure, meaning the cables are thicker the lower you go on that number.


So something like this should be fine?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5283&seq=1&format=2

I just want to make sure I buy the right thing. Haha. Thanks a lot. What I thought about the power brick... hadn't seen people replacing them but heard about people switching to the american cord which I would like to do.


----------



## sb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Me and the woman saw a bunch of those at the store when we were shopping for condoms the other day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, I don't recommend using a different power brick than the one supplied with the monitor. Also, it seems like the included DVI cable works better for most people, so I wouldn't swap that either unless something is wrong with it. What you want is a generic PC power cord, the same kind that comes with any power supply. Check out this page: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228
> 
> The length is up to you, but don't get excessive length if you don't need to. I recommend 16AWG just in case. That number relates to the thickness and it is a gauge measure, meaning the cables are thicker the lower you go on that number.


Well my power brick was DOA. Seller gave me a partial refund for it. I had an extra 12v 6A brick of higher quality that works just fine. You can use other bricks as long as the voltage rating is equal, amperage equal or greater than, never lesser, and plug polarity and size match.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Yeah something like that is fine. For me, 2ft would be too short, but it's up to you to figure out how long the cable needs to be.

I should probably also mention a few things. On the box that it came in, it says "12ms" and "Made in China". Now we know why the build quality sucks. The panel also sits just slightly lower than it should, as others have mentioned. The bezel is identical to that of the Monoprice, except for the branding.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yep it was the port/cable in that that damn thing really needs to be screwed in well and tight, at least on mine (there is no looseness of the port itself in the housing or anything like that). Which is the reason why the other cable won't work at all on this thing--it cant screw in at all. Most displays work fine still; not this one.

So be aware of that on any new ones you may buy. Up until today I had been running it with just the top of the two on the stock cable screwed in iirc; display cables can be such a ***** and one of the things I hate most working IT. Glad this one not on bottom.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Could you link me something that I should buy then or what people are buying for their monitors? I have no idea on this and usually buy all my cables from monoprice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize people were replacing the entire power brick. I always see people complaining about buzzing power bricks or faulty power bricks. Didn't realize you could just replace them. Lol. People shouldn't be *****ing then.


You could use any 12V 5A power brick and a Monoprice or Tripp Lite DVI-D cable.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Me and the woman saw a bunch of those at the store when we were shopping for condoms the other day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, I don't recommend using a different power brick than the one supplied with the monitor. Also, it seems like the included DVI cable works better for most people, so I wouldn't swap that either unless something is wrong with it. What you want is a generic PC power cord, the same kind that comes with any power supply. Check out this page: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228
> 
> The length is up to you, but don't get excessive length if you don't need to. I recommend 16AWG just in case. That number relates to the thickness and it is a gauge measure, meaning the cables are thicker the lower you go on that number.


But other power bricks work just fine and it's useful in case the supplied one goes out. Heck some people had their supplied ones failed on them and others came in dead on arrival. It also seems safer as well.

In some cases a better DVI-D cable allows people to do 120hz easier than the supplied DVI-D cable that came with the monitor. I had green lines on mine when I did 120hz with the supplied DVI-D cable, but I heard someone had the same thing and then switched their cable with a different one and that solved the problem for them.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So can tweaking the values in CRU (or trying LCD -Reduced and such) which must fine-tune and lessen noise in the signal which stands to reason a higher quality cable would too.


----------



## Jboss

I have a question, i have minor backlight bleed at the very middle top of my screen but i'm wondering if the success rate of that backlight bleed fix is 100% successful or not. Is there also a chance that it might create more backlight bleed if not done right?

I think when i press on the bezel at the top the backlight bleed dissipates a bit, that's something i can fix by relieving or adding pressure to the bezel? If i do decide to disassemble it, it's going to be a HUGE pain in the ass as my monitor is already wall mounted so i would have to take off the wall mount and what not to do this haha.


----------



## killerfrenzi

I'm gonna order a new monitor in about a month or so. Man I'm having a hard time waiting to order one.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> I'm gonna order a new monitor in about a month or so. Man I'm having a hard time waiting to order one.


Your first or second? The price will most likely increase by then.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> I'm gonna order a new monitor in about a month or so. Man I'm having a hard time waiting to order one.


Buy now while prices are right before they increase in price and or become non overclock-able.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yep it was the port/cable in that that damn thing really needs to be screwed in well and tight, at least on mine (there is no looseness of the port itself in the housing or anything like that). Which is the reason why the other cable won't work at all on this thing--it cant screw in at all. Most displays work fine still; not this one.
> 
> So be aware of that on any new ones you may buy. Up until today I had been running it with just the top of the two on the stock cable screwed in iirc; display cables can be such a ***** and one of the things I hate most working IT. Glad this one not on bottom.


So you got it working or you didn't get it working?

Yeah the supplied DVI cable would only screw in at the top for me also.

I'm just going to say it again for emphasis: "Made in China".


----------



## wntrsnowg

Does anyone use an aftermarket monitor stand? If so, what?


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So can tweaking the values in CRU (or trying LCD -Reduced and such) which must fine-tune and lessen noise in the signal which stands to reason a higher quality cable would too.


Ah that's great to hear, never really tried CRU much at all.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> So you got it working or you didn't get it working?
> 
> Yeah the supplied DVI cable would only screw in at the top for me also.


Yeah it's fine. I worked at it this time and got the bottom screwed in as well (when at first I thought it might not) so if anyone else has any "black screen" issues definitely check your cable connection. The pins on this other cable are definitely not long enough to reach and screw in at all, top or bottom.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> *QUESTION:* My X-Star DP2710 Matte has been running well at 112hz, but I noticed that it seems like colors starting at about the center of the screen, and towards the right, get slightly darker/dimmer the further towards the edge of the panel I look. It's not a big effect but it is a shade different, enough so that I'm slightly concerned. Is this par for the course with overclocking these things, or might something be going bad? I didn't notice the issue when I first got the monitor, but it could well have been there (and still appears if I downclock to 60hz). Since I noticed it, no worsening appears to be taking place. Thoughts?


I'm sorry to quote this again to ask, but no one answered and I just wanted to know







. It's lessened at 96hz, also... I'd say at 112hz it's a couple of shades darker, while 96hz it's a shade.

EDIT: In fact I think it might be a slight bluish tint causing it to look darker, towards the upper right, not an actual brightness difference. I guess it's just a normal panel uniformity thing? Like this: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1510397

EDIT2: Yep, it's panel uniformity and common, per the first couple of pages of this thread (posts 40-120 or so) where people were comparing their gamma shift/uniformity with 40% gray pictures. Whew! Glad it's not a defect.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Does anyone use an aftermarket monitor stand? If so, what?


Well I forgot to mention when I posted that quote from the guy at [H] that the main reason he opened them (he has two) besides panel play was to remove the stand stem for "free standing desk lcd mounts from monoprice"


----------



## AstralReaper

27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 ll 2560x1440 Matte Screen WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor
or
X-STAR DP2710 LED 27" Matte Screen QHD PLS Computer Monitor 2560x1440 DVI-D

Two questions. Which has better 120hz chance? USA has no import fees correct?

Sorry if this has been covered before. I'm just ecstatic as I thought all the 1440p monitors were higher priced now and unoverclockable. I might buy two and use a active dp adapter.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> 27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 ll 2560x1440 Matte Screen WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor
> or
> X-STAR DP2710 LED 27" Matte Screen QHD PLS Computer Monitor 2560x1440 DVI-D
> 
> Two questions. Which has better 120hz chance? USA has no import fees correct?
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before. I'm just ecstatic as I thought all the 1440p monitors were higher priced now and unoverclockable. I might buy two and use a active dp adapter.


It's a gamble either way model-wise as far as reaching 120hz, though I think all of them so far have reached 100hz+ and many have hit 120hz+. There are no customs/import duties/taxes/anything for those of us in the USA buying these, no.


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> It's a gamble either way model-wise as far as reaching 120hz, though I think all of them so far have reached 100hz+ and many have hit 120hz+. There are no customs/import duties/taxes/anything for those of us in the USA buying these, no.


+REP I'm fine with 100hz actually but 120hz would make me very happy. 144hz would make me run a marathon of pure joy. These monitors should be considered high end for the next 3-6 years if the build quality is good.


----------



## qweasd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> I have a question, i have minor backlight bleed at the very middle top of my screen but i'm wondering if the success rate of that backlight bleed fix is 100% successful or not. Is there also a chance that it might create more backlight bleed if not done right?
> 
> I think when i press on the bezel at the top the backlight bleed dissipates a bit, that's something i can fix by relieving or adding pressure to the bezel? If i do decide to disassemble it, it's going to be a HUGE pain in the ass as my monitor is already wall mounted so i would have to take off the wall mount and what not to do this haha.


No, the fix is not 100% successful, probably not even close, backlight bleeding is probably a combination of both the panel and the monitor assembly, but it's very easy to try.

The monitor is very easy to open from the front, I kind of just pulled off the front part with my hand. I broke one of the plastic pieces that snap together and hold the front cover in place by doing this. This is not a problem, as there are many of them. And I did damage the warranty sticker at the bottom.

There is also a tape mod, that you could try, but for that you would need to remove the lcd panel. Seems like a lot of work.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> +REP I'm fine with 100hz actually but 120hz would make me very happy. 144hz would make me run a marathon of pure joy. These monitors should be considered high end for the next 3-6 years if the build quality is good.


Yeah, I have had mine at 112hz but I am testing 120hz now, been running for 30+ minutes solidly and will be trying it out over the next week-ish... the manual timings seem to have done the trick







. 120hz 1440p indeed will be high-end for a good while to come. Do read up on the FAQ's regarding build quality, it does vary a bit but the issues are generally minor.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> 27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 ll 2560x1440 Matte Screen WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor
> or
> X-STAR DP2710 LED 27" Matte Screen QHD PLS Computer Monitor 2560x1440 DVI-D
> 
> Two questions. Which has better 120hz chance? USA has no import fees correct?
> 
> Sorry if this has been covered before. I'm just ecstatic as I thought all the 1440p monitors were higher priced now and unoverclockable. I might buy two and use a active dp adapter.


Id go with the x-star. I dont like the brand name, i think its cheap. But purely hardware, it is cheaper than the qnix you linked and the x-star description says it is a 0-2 pixel defect. can't go wrong with that. plus hulustar is a great seller


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Id go with the x-star. I dont like the brand name, i think its cheap. But purely hardware, it is cheaper than the qnix you linked and the x-star description says it is a 0-2 pixel defect. can't go wrong with that. plus hulustar is a great seller


I was thinking that too but the Qnix is a 6ms response time and the X-star is a 8ms response time. I'm not sure if I would even notice it but I'm asking because my current monitor has a 2ms response rate and I want to use this monitor for fps games like css and bf3.

I also need to figure out if I should get a squaretrade warranty.

Alright guys. I'm going with the X-star. Will report back when it gets here. Ordering tomorrow.


----------



## acelegend90

Hey everyone! I received my Qnix monitor recently and love the image quality so far coming from a TN panel. Here are the only two problems so far for me:

- A dead pixel near the center of my screen (the are a couple others but this is the only one I notice).
- Backlight bleeding as covered in this video: 








The video above already has the tape fix installed. Is it severe enough to warrant a complaint? Other than that, I have it OCed at 96Hz no problem and should be able to go to 120Hz with some tweaking.


----------



## Spartan F8

Well i have tested the heck out of my monoprice cables. More specifically the good one i got. I have got up to 152Hz without seeing any actual artifacts. The problem is panel uniformity at that refresh rate. At 120hz i get a slight bit of of darkness in the top right hand corner of the screen which is not even close to noticeable unless i stare at it with a completely white screen. Higher i really start to get some darkness over there and with like blue or grey i get some scan lines just over 135hz. At 152hz blue or greyish i get a little bit of scan line like artifacts. Tinkering with the settings to get that high did help as i found better settings for being at 120hz. The fact of the matter is for all you guys at 120hz still having a little bit of issues you might try going higher and just try and keep it stable and then keep those settings and go back to 120hz.

I can tell you 120hz to 142 is practically indistinguishable where 120 to 152 there is a slight noticeable difference to me when swinging windows around and also when playing videos with madvr smooth motion on. I can also tell you that after using the monoprice cable my brightness at 120hz is a lot better and is almost comparable to my crossover blade(rendering the blade completely obsolete to me)

The one thing i have not tested is the burn-in effect at those higher refresh rates and for obvious reasons. I would advise most of us over 100hz to set a nice short screensaver timeout.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Well i have tested the heck out of my monoprice cables. More specifically the good one i got. I have got up to 152Hz without seeing any actual artifacts. The problem is panel uniformity at that refresh rate. At 120hz i get a slight bit of of darkness in the top right hand corner of the screen which is not even close to noticeable unless i stare at it with a completely white screen. Higher i really start to get some darkness over there and with like blue or grey i get some scan lines just over 135hz. At 152hz blue or greyish i get a little bit of scan line like artifacts. Tinkering with the settings to get that high did help as i found better settings for being at 120hz. The fact of the matter is for all you guys at 120hz still having a little bit of issues you might try going higher and just try and keep it stable and then keep those settings and go back to 120hz.
> 
> I can tell you 120hz to 142 is practically indistinguishable where 120 to 152 there is a slight noticeable difference to me when swinging windows around and also when playing videos with madvr smooth motion on. I can also tell you that after using the monoprice cable my brightness at 120hz is a lot better and is almost comparable to my crossover blade(rendering the blade completely obsolete to me)
> 
> The one thing i have not tested is the burn-in effect at those higher refresh rates and for obvious reasons. I would advise most of us over 100hz to set a nice short screensaver timeout.


How many cables did you get and which ones were they? Did the monoprice cables give you better results than the stock dual link dvi the ebay sellers gave you?


----------



## killerfrenzi

so if I plan to game, which one should I get out of the LPS? I'm convinced to buyit within this week before the price hikes


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> so if I plan to game, which one should I get out of the LPS? I'm convinced to buyit within this week before the price hikes


I picked the x-star as it was cheaper but the Qnix was a 6ms panel vs 8ms on teh x-star, so it is close. Both should be amazing at gaming if they overclock right. But I'm buying now before the prices go up because last time I waited and it climbed so so high.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> I was thinking that too but the Qnix is a 6ms response time and the X-star is a 8ms response time. I'm not sure if I would even notice it but I'm asking because my current monitor has a 2ms response rate and I want to use this monitor for fps games like css and bf3.
> 
> I also need to figure out if I should get a squaretrade warranty.
> 
> Alright guys. I'm going with the X-star. Will report back when it gets here. Ordering tomorrow.


As mspamed has said earlier. He bought the X-Star and got the manual which says 6-ms. You can find the picture in his review i believe.


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> I picked the x-star as it was cheaper but the Qnix was a 6ms panel vs 8ms on teh x-star, so it is close. Both should be amazing at gaming if they overclock right. But I'm buying now before the prices go up because last time I waited and it climbed so so high.


I'm assuming the input lag is the same for both? I would think the 2ms difference makes no difference, but I would get whichever one has better build quality


----------



## furyau

I just cant quite get a clean 120hz, its very close and I only occasionally can see a line out.

1. LCD Reduced
2. Alternate DVI
3. Reduce DVI frequency
4. 3 different DVI-D cables...

Any other tips??


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> How many cables did you get and which ones were they? Did the monoprice cables give you better results than the stock dual link dvi the ebay sellers gave you?


I got 3 cables all 3 foot 24AWG. One was worse than the stock cables, one was about the same maybe a little better, and the last was definitely better(funny how that worked out).


----------



## Klouczech

What seller (who sells QNIX, X-Star) is the best in case of complaints and service?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> What seller (who sells QNIX, X-Star) is the best in case of complaints and service?


BCC, green-sum and hulustar seem to be the most reliable sellers.


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> BCC, green-sum and hulustar seem to be the most reliable sellers.


Ok, BCC, green-sum, hulustar and dream-seller are the most reliable sellers.
Which one is the best in your opinion?


----------



## killerfrenzi

so I should grab http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-WQHD-2560x1440-PLS-27-Monitor-/121101791965?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1c323ab2dd
or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-LED-Computer-Monitor-Glossy-/111070643993?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19dc538719

unless I'm overlooking a reputable seller with a better price?


----------



## dascth

Wow, I missed a lot. I don't think I can catch up. We had a baby and I've been out of the loop. Upon trying to edit some newborn pics I noticed color banding on my Qnix in Lightroom, especially in over-exposed photos. I actually narrowed it down to my calibration. If anyone else notices this, let me know if the profile below fixes it. I made a new calibration profile using a matrix-based profile instead of LUT, which is more compatible with applications and is supposedly "smoother" at the expense of absolute accuracy. My banding problem went away and I see no tangible inaccuracy.

Profile:

QX2710 60Hz - 2013-05-15 D6500 2.22 HQ 3xCurve+MTX.zip 11k .zip file




Spoiler: Here's what banding looks like (upped exposure to exaggerate):









Spoiler: Here's the original pic just to show of my new baby :) :


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> I'm assuming the input lag is the same for both? I would think the 2ms difference makes no difference, but I would get whichever one has better build quality


As it is the same panel, just a different brand. There shouldn't be a difference in the input lag. Also they are both 6ms.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yep it was the port/cable in that that damn thing really needs to be screwed in well and tight, at least on mine (there is no looseness of the port itself in the housing or anything like that). Which is the reason why the other cable won't work at all on this thing--it cant screw in at all. Most displays work fine still; not this one.
> 
> So be aware of that on any new ones you may buy. Up until today I had been running it with just the top of the two on the stock cable screwed in iirc; display cables can be such a ***** and one of the things I hate most working IT. Glad this one not on bottom.


Congrats!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> I'm sorry to quote this again to ask, but no one answered and I just wanted to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It's lessened at 96hz, also... I'd say at 112hz it's a couple of shades darker, while 96hz it's a shade.
> 
> EDIT: In fact I think it might be a slight bluish tint causing it to look darker, towards the upper right, not an actual brightness difference. I guess it's just a normal panel uniformity thing? Like this: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1510397
> 
> EDIT2: Yep, it's panel uniformity and common, per the first couple of pages of this thread (posts 40-120 or so) where people were comparing their gamma shift/uniformity with 40% gray pictures. Whew! Glad it's not a defect.


Only the people who have OCed their monitors have noticed burn-ins and I guess you can say that the uniformity issue is also from OCing. I would recommend you getiing back to 60Hz for atleast a week and see if that reduces it. You didn't notice the uniformity issue previously right ,so may be it wasn't that harsh before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> +REP I'm fine with 100hz actually but 120hz would make me very happy. 144hz would make me run a marathon of pure joy. These monitors should be considered high end for the next 3-6 years if the build quality is good.


I don't get it. If the panel is the same and the pcb is the same, then why the hell does my goes up to 135Hz and yours only to 112Hz. I mean shouldn't they all be the same???
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> I was thinking that too but the Qnix is a 6ms response time and the X-star is a 8ms response time. I'm not sure if I would even notice it but I'm asking because my current monitor has a 2ms response rate and I want to use this monitor for fps games like css and bf3.
> 
> I also need to figure out if I should get a squaretrade warranty.
> 
> Alright guys. I'm going with the X-star. Will report back when it gets here. Ordering tomorrow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> I picked the x-star as it was cheaper but the Qnix was a 6ms panel vs 8ms on teh x-star, so it is close. Both should be amazing at gaming if they overclock right. But I'm buying now before the prices go up because last time I waited and it climbed so so high.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> As mspamed has said earlier. He bought the X-Star and got the manual which says 6-ms. You can find the picture in his review i believe.


Yeah I have taken a pic of the specs from the manual . The X-star also have a 6ms response time.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *furyau*
> 
> I just cant quite get a clean 120hz, its very close and I only occasionally can see a line out.
> 
> 1. LCD Reduced
> 2. Alternate DVI
> 3. Reduce DVI frequency
> 4. 3 different DVI-D cables...
> 
> Any other tips??


Tweak your timings manually, and you're probably good then







. I was able to reduce my "total pixels" down to 2660 horizontal, and 1450 vertical, with 2 vertical front porch & sync width. Just start reducing the horizontal/vertical "total pixels" (NOT active pixels) downward from their defaults on reduced. If the screen goes black, it's too low (the nVidia control panel lets you just press ESC then and it'll come back to what it was at). Just take it in steps of 20-30 then narrow it down to 10's.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> You didn't notice the uniformity issue previously right ,so may be it wasn't that harsh before.


I hadn't noticed it previously, but I was only running 96hz originally as well when I first got the panel, for some time. The higher my OC, the more severe the panel uniformity shift seems to be, but I'm not sure really how abnormal it is from the first pages of this thread. So, I'm not quite so worried now







. EDIT: Also I figure it's best to stress it in the first month while I still have an exchange available, if anything does go wrong, than go easy on it and then be out of luck if it can't handle 120 later.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Wow, I missed a lot. I don't think I can catch up. We had a baby and I've been out of the loop. Upon trying to edit some newborn pics I noticed color banding on my Qnix in Lightroom, especially in over-exposed photos. I actually narrowed it down to my calibration. If anyone else notices this, let me know if the profile below fixes it. I made a new calibration profile using a matrix-based profile instead of LUT, which is more compatible with applications and is supposedly "smoother" at the expense of absolute accuracy. My banding problem went away and I see no tangible inaccuracy.
> 
> Profile:
> 
> QX2710 60Hz - 2013-05-15 D6500 2.22 HQ 3xCurve+MTX.zip 11k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here's what banding looks like (upped exposure to exaggerate):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here's the original pic just to show of my new baby :) :


Congratulations!!


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> Ok, BCC, green-sum, hulustar and dream-seller are the most reliable sellers.
> Which one is the best in your opinion?


X-Star should be the same like QNIX so its better to buy the cheaper one, right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/111063766076?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dbea943c

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/140966017556?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d23aba14


----------



## defragger

Hi guys,

I've been following this thread for a few weeks now but haven't really posted.

I recieved a Glossy Qnix about two weeks ago and had it running at 120hz with no problems using the cable that came with it.

Today, I started having issues where the screen (not the PC) would crash where it has gone all flickery and white/black after being on and working fine for a while (see attatched photo). I then have to manually restart the PC by holding down the power button. I noticed that it liked to crash on certain pages - I think one's that have Flash enabled perhaps or somewhere where there was some sort of visual thing going on. Not sure as it wouldn't crash on Youtube. Seems to be browser related anyway so far

Anyways I put it back down to 60hz for a few hours and seemed fine. I then went back to 120hz and it ran fine until it got to a certain page in the browser where it would again crash and spaz out. I put it back down to 60hz, then back to 120hz, went back to the same page (http://maps.google.com/help/maps/helloworld/desktop/preview/) and it crashed again. So now I know that it's an issue with some GPU related process in the web browser. However when it crashed this time, putting it back to 60hz, I saw that screen started having a sort of shimmer/flicker, which doesn't show up when at 96hz or 120hz. I have now reset CRU back to normal, unpatched my drivers and gone all back to stock which seems to have lessened the shimmer considerably. However if I put the brightness down to the lowest setting, or one click above from that, you can definitely see the backlight flickering.

I'm not too sure what to do at this stage. With the brightness 10 or so clicks up, the flickering of the backlight/edgelight isn't as noticeable but you can still just see it occurring out of the corner of you eye.

I purchased mine from dream-seller, and have 7970 graphics card, running it using the stock cable.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## leo999

>Flash crash
Try turn off video acceleration in Flash

>Backlight flickering at lowest brightness setting
Normal behaviour caused by on/off threshold of the LED lights.

>Flickering of the backlight occurring out of the corner of you eye
Normal behaviour caused by PWM brightness control of the LED light.

I did experience full screen noise on my screen, but not like what's in your photo.
Changing DVI cable did significantly reduce the scale of the noise.

Sometimes slight noise does return after prolonged power off.
Turning off&on the monitor will stop the noise for the session.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defragger*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've been following this thread for a few weeks now but haven't really posted.
> 
> I recieved a Glossy Qnix about two weeks ago and had it running at 120hz with no problems using the cable that came with it.
> 
> Today, I started having issues where the screen (not the PC) would crash where it has gone all flickery and white/black after being on and working fine for a while (see attatched photo). I then have to manually restart the PC by holding down the power button. I noticed that it liked to crash on certain pages - I think one's that have Flash enabled perhaps or somewhere where there was some sort of visual thing going on. Not sure as it wouldn't crash on Youtube. Seems to be browser related anyway so far
> 
> Anyways I put it back down to 60hz for a few hours and seemed fine. I then went back to 120hz and it ran fine until it got to a certain page in the browser where it would again crash and spaz out. I put it back down to 60hz, then back to 120hz, went back to the same page (http://maps.google.com/help/maps/helloworld/desktop/preview/) and it crashed again. So now I know that it's an issue with some GPU related process in the web browser. However when it crashed this time, putting it back to 60hz, I saw that screen started having a sort of shimmer/flicker, which doesn't show up when at 96hz or 120hz. I have now reset CRU back to normal, unpatched my drivers and gone all back to stock which seems to have lessened the shimmer considerably. However if I put the brightness down to the lowest setting, or one click above from that, you can definitely see the backlight flickering.
> 
> I'm not too sure what to do at this stage. With the brightness 10 or so clicks up, the flickering of the backlight/edgelight isn't as noticeable but you can still just see it occurring out of the corner of you eye.
> 
> I purchased mine from dream-seller, and have 7970 graphics card, running it using the stock cable.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> [*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1463179/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


Just to note, my only-several-days-old panel has backlight dimming/brighter flicker at the lowest setting too, as well as one to two clicks above that. Once I go to a few or higher clicks the flicker goes away. EDIT: Read leo999's post above mine.

@leo999, yeah, my Monoprice cable is definitely better at 120hz than my stock one... perfect image other than color uniformity for me (which isn't too bad for a panel).


----------



## defragger

Ah okay thanks for the input. I guess the flickering out of the corner of the eye was always there, but I never noticed it until all these problems occurred. Maybe I am being a bit paranoid now and also my eyes hurt from staring at the monitor for so long.

However the flickering at 60hz before turning unpatching my drivers, resetting CRU was definitely very noticeable, the same level of flickering that occurs at the lowest brightness. Got me quite scared.

The monitor crash was definitely weird. I did try disable hardware acceleration by going into the Flash menu in the browser, but the option was not there. I think this crash is definitely to do with some sort of driver/software issue than hardware so I am confident it can be fixed with some tinkering and trail-and-error methods.

Guess I will leave it for a couple of days and try to the start the overclocking process again. Perhaps get a new DVI cable too.


----------



## leo999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> Yes, the green light on the brick is green. The flash I saw was a white-ish color. I would compare it to the bleed color in some of these photos. It is a white/yellow tint. Flashes the entire screen then turns black.
> 
> I am coming from the 25" screens. I actually have on still connected along with the Qnix. Strange thing is, the computer sees the screen, it just will not power on. I will attempt the squeezing of the prongs, but with it powering the brick, I wouldn't think that would be the cause.


One simple and common possibility is the wrong type of DVI cable or DVI port.

Make sure you got dual link DVI cable:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface

The cable that came with my monitor was single link DVI.
The monitor still got detected by Windows becasue the DCC channel on the wrong DVI cable was still functional.

BTW what video card are you using?
If your video card got another DVI port, try it as well, since not every DVI port is dual link inside.
If you want to run the monitor from onboard Intel HD graphics, you need to use DTD Calculator to add a 40hz DTD registry entry.


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leo999*
> 
> One simple and common possibility is the wrong type of DVI cable or DVI port.
> 
> Make sure you got dual link DVI cable:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface
> 
> The cable that came with my monitor was single link DVI.
> The monitor still got detected by Windows becasue the DCC channel on the wrong DVI cable was still functional.
> 
> BTW what video card are you using?
> If your video card got another DVI port, try it as well, since not every DVI port is dual link inside.
> If you want to run the monitor from onboard Intel HD graphics, you need to use DTD Calculator to add a 40hz DTD registry entry.


Thanks. I think this might be what is wrong. I am using the cable that they provided because it said it came with a dual link DVI cable... Here are the steps that the seller has given me to test. I have done all but replace the cable with no success. Next step is to buy a new cable and test it out. As for the vc, it is below in my sig. Sapph 7970. Here is what they said:

Well received your photos.
As you think, I also do not think it damaged monitor.

Your problem is now "black screen"
Monitor is powered on, but you can not see windows screen.

In this case, 2 possibility is there.

1. screen resolution rate is not matched.
2. DVI-dual link cable.

First of all,

#1
Connect your 25" monitor.
Only one.

#2
and then, set the resolution rate as 1024*768 or less

#3
Turn off the computer

#4
connect QNIX QX2710 monitor only

#5
Check out your DVI-D cable pins are not bent at both side.

#6.
Turn on the computer.
Then you can see 27" screen.

FYI,
Monitor LED is off, that means your monitor does not get the signal from graphic card.
In most case, resolution rate setting failure.
Try to 2~3 time like above method, if you failed.

Good luck.

Best regard from Korea


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah, again, mine stopped displaying any image recently until I screwed the cable in super tight on both top and bottom. It really needs a proper connection.


----------



## bhardy1185

I have connected and disconnected that cable about 10 times, screwed in as much as I can both at the monitor and card. Very well could be a bad cable. I really don't feel like searching for the link in past past. Can someone please link the most commonly purchased dual link DVI cable? Thanks.


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> Yeah I have taken a pic of the specs from the manual . The X-star also have a 6ms response time.


Cool. Thanks to all your info. I purchased the x-star today from hulustar. I'm not sure why they have it listed as a 8ms panel but they are probably just using standard product pictures. Got free expedited shipping with a 0-2 pixel defect. Am getting a squaretrade warranty when it arrives as well. It just seems easier dealing with a company over here then the guys over in Korea. Plus no one knows how long these monitors will last. So a 3 year seems like the best bet.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> I have connected and disconnected that cable about 10 times, screwed in as much as I can both at the monitor and card. Very well could be a bad cable. I really don't feel like searching for the link in past past. Can someone please link the most commonly purchased dual link DVI cable? Thanks.


I think people got good experience with the monoprice ones: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> I have connected and disconnected that cable about 10 times, screwed in as much as I can both at the monitor and card. Very well could be a bad cable. I really don't feel like searching for the link in past past. Can someone please link the most commonly purchased dual link DVI cable? Thanks.


Just ordered 3 of : these I finally found a scan line, but i only see it when i open up the steam forums in chrome. Hopefully one of these 3 cables will be the golden egg.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> Cool. Thanks to all your info. I purchased the x-star today from hulustar. I'm not sure why they have it listed as a 8ms panel but they are probably just using standard product pictures. Got free expedited shipping with a 0-2 pixel defect. Am getting a squaretrade warranty when it arrives as well. It just seems easier dealing with a company over here then the guys over in Korea. Plus no one knows how long these monitors will last. So a 3 year seems like the best bet.


You are welcome!!!








And yeah 3 year warranty for that price is awesome. There is no such service in India or I would have loved to get one myself.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hmm so there is no Square Trade-like entity in India....business opportunity!







All kidding aside, it has been very successful here.

Yeah I should really buy the damn warranty. Need to email them and see if I can get the 35% off coupon then I will definitely do it.


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> I think people got good experience with the monoprice ones: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209


Thank you sir! 24AWG has been ordered. Hopefully will be here in the next couple days and I can finally get this monitor working.


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Just ordered 3 of : these I finally found a scan line, but i only see it when i open up the steam forums in chrome. Hopefully one of these 3 cables will be the golden egg.


Exact same one I bought.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> Exact same one I bought.


Sweet, They should be in tomorrow. Will report back if that scan line disappears on the steam forums.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> Thank you sir! 24AWG has been ordered. Hopefully will be here in the next couple days and I can finally get this monitor working.


Nice... and yeah, my Monoprice 24awg works very well at 120hz....







. Hopefully it will fix it for you!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Some really nice shareware screen savers on this site which look fantastic on these displays (and can help avoid the burn in-like phenomenon some are getting). Helios and Hyperspace are my two faves (tho haven't tried all).

http://www.reallyslick.com/screensavers/


----------



## Hegro

Ordered my monitor yesterday. It was already the 16th in Korea but it just arrived in Ohio today(the 16th) and am super stoked. This is going to get here way before the other stuff I ordered from Monoprice.







I live in Kansas so depending on how much more traveling the monitor does today I will see it tomorrow or Saturday. WOOO!


----------



## DeadGivaway

So I kinda messed something up. I can't get into windows except in safe mode or without the Nvidia drivers loading. I think the problem is that I created a 2d profile in EVGA precision to clock my GPU way down, and I think even though I uninstalled the program in safe mode, it is still trying to boot at that way reduced GPU and memory clock, and failing. I get a black screen after the Windows logo animation disappears.

How do I reset the GPU to stock clocks, considering that in safe mode, precision X doesn't load properly because it can't load its driver?

I think I'm supposed to hold shift after entering my pw to log in, but the problem is that I can't even see the login screen.

OMG HALP!


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> So I kinda messed something up. I can't get into windows except in safe mode or without the Nvidia drivers loading. I think the problem is that I created a 2d profile in EVGA precision to clock my GPU way down, and I think even though I uninstalled the program in safe mode, it is still trying to boot at that way reduced GPU and memory clock, and failing. I get a black screen after the Windows logo animation disappears.
> 
> How do I reset the GPU to stock clocks, considering that in safe mode, precision X doesn't load properly because it can't load its driver?
> 
> I think I'm supposed to hold shift after entering my pw to log in, but the problem is that I can't even see the login screen.
> 
> OMG HALP!


Uninstall your drivers in safe mode, then reboot into safe mode and re-install them there. You should then be all set to go back into normal mode.


----------



## decrescent

I just wanted to register and say thank you too each and every one of you for your posts in this thread. I read through page after page of this topic and other others with the same topic in this forum and made the leap to buying a 1440p monitor. I bought a pixel perfect QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡfor 359$ from green-sum. Was truly pixel perfect with VERY small amount of back light bleed that if I wasn't lazy I'm sure I could remove it. Also read the how to over clock your monitor section on the first page and went to 120hz without a trouble and stable. Also a big plus was the fact I even got my monitor a day earlier than was specified! Anyway thanks again for all of the collective information in this thread to help out people like myself. :> Also highly recommend green-sum for your monitor purchases for what it's worth.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decrescent*
> 
> I just wanted to register and say thank you too each and every one of you for your posts in this thread. I read through page after page of this topic and other others with the same topic in this forum and made the leap to buying a 1440p monitor. I bought a pixel perfect QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡfor 359$ from green-sum. Was truly pixel perfect with VERY small amount of back light bleed that if I wasn't lazy I'm sure I could remove it. Also read the how to over clock your monitor section on the first page and went to 120hz without a trouble and stable. Also a big plus was the fact I even got my monitor a day earlier than was specified! Anyway thanks again for all of the collective information in this thread to help out people like myself. :> Also highly recommend green-sum for your monitor purchases for what it's worth.


Very nice! And, thanks for letting us all know







.


----------



## kxdu

So I just received mine just now after UPS picked it up from the seller yesterday morning at 10:35AM, crazy fast.

Zero dead pixels and very minimal back light bleed only at the bottom left corner. Picked it up for $295 shipped @ http://www.ebay.com/itm/251271982638?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Running at 120hz with no hiccups atm, I have it side by side with my U2412m and the pixel density difference is substantial


----------



## killerfrenzi

I can't decide if I want matte or glossy


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> I can't decide if I want matte or glossy


Most people are going with Matte. What I went with and I am sure I wont be disappointed.


----------



## LarsMarkelson

Just got the QNIX from ebay seller red-cap!!! Few weird things: My box didn't say Evolution II on it... still okay? Thinking yes.

Also, the seller sent me a UK power cable ugh.

I got it to 96hz on LCD standard. 120hz on LCD standard failed, going to research what other settings to try. And yes I can already notice the difference!! Incredible. Love it.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> I can't decide if I want matte or glossy


Better to go Matte to prevent seeing reflections with lights going on!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

La Jolla is a sunny place!









The matte is super nice semi-gloss to boot.


----------



## LarsMarkelson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> La Jolla is a sunny place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The matte is super nice semi-gloss to boot.


This is the best matte I've seen so far. I used to have old Dell Mattes and the text was very grainy. This QNIX matte looks almost as good for text as my Apple 27 glossy.


----------



## GoldenTiger

*QUESTION* I'm seeing a possibly different brightness uniformity at 120hz than 96hz, particularly at the top right area vs. the other quadrants of the screen. Other than it darkening colors, should I be concerned with that or just enjoy? I know the uniformity is supposed to worsen with refresh rate boosts, but am curious how it compares to others' panels...

96hz picture with my phone (intended to show the uniformity difference brightness-wise, it's just from my cell phone and is dimmer than it looks in-person, the blue/yellow tinging is pretty accurate though across the panel)):



120hz of the same:


Should I be concerned at all? To me it looks like the same uniformity difference but just more visible because of the dimmer display at 120hz compared to 96hz (as everyone has mentioned PLS panels darken some at higher refresh). Both pictures taken with max brightness.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Forewarning: Sorry for my terrible grammar.

Review of QNIX pixel perfect:
Seller: allkillsale
price: $320

Last month I ordered a crossover blade and regretted it the day after it shipped, I knew it was going to be an awesome monitor however this thread convinced me of the higher fidelity of the PLS panel. My crossover came in five days after the order was placed with the box in perfect condition. After setting it up the monitor booted without a hitch the colours were incredible however it shipped with 7-12 dead pixels in the corner, this alone would not warrant me attempting to send it back to korea however there was atrocious light bleed seen here:






http://imgur.com/irGD6


This was tolerable but left me disappointed, I attempted to fix both issues with massaging and taking off the back panel however the screws were so tightly in place I was unable to remove the bezel. I contacted allkillsale and that night he replied eager to help me. I sent him the pictures and without a fuss he agreed to replace the monitor. After quite a few friendly emails that were replied to promptly he agreed to swap my purchase to a QNIX pixel perfect monitor with minimal light bleed. He didn't have them at his shop at the time so he bought a batch to specially accommodate me even after he paid for the return shipping of the monitor. I couldn't be happier with the service that allkillsale provided and I would highly recommend him as a seller, his 100% ebay reputation is the truth and he definitely earned a customer. The monitor will be arriving tonight and I will do a full review when it does as well as a non-technical comparison of the experience of the crossover vs the qnix.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Forewarning: Sorry for my terrible grammar.
> 
> Review of QNIX pixel perfect:
> Seller: allkillsale
> price: $320
> 
> Last month I ordered a crossover blade and regretted it the day after it shipped, I knew it was going to be an awesome monitor however this thread convinced me of the higher fidelity of the PLS panel. My crossover came in five days after the order was placed with the box in perfect condition. After setting it up the monitor booted without a hitch the colours were incredible however it shipped with 7-12 dead pixels in the corner, this alone would not warrant me attempting to send it back to korea however there was atrocious light bleed seen here:
> 
> [*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1464113/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> [*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1464115/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/irGD6
> 
> 
> This was tolerable but left me disappointed, I attempted to fix both issues with massaging and taking off the back panel however the screws were so tightly in place I was unable to remove the bezel. I contacted allkillsale and that night he replied eager to help me. I sent him the pictures and without a fuss he agreed to replace the monitor. After quite a few friendly emails that were replied to promptly he agreed to swap my purchase to a QNIX pixel perfect monitor. He didn't have them at his shop at the time so he bought a batch to specially accommodate me even after he paid for the return shipping of the monitor. I couldn't be happier with the service that allkillsale provided and I would highly recommend him as a seller, his 100% ebay reputation is the truth and he definitely earned a customer. The monitor will be arriving tonight and I will do a full review when it does as well as a non-technical comparison of the experience of the crossover vs the qnix.


Thanks, good info to know!


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LarsMarkelson*
> 
> This is the best matte I've seen so far. I used to have old Dell Mattes and the text was very grainy. This QNIX matte looks almost as good for text as my Apple 27 glossy.


sounds like it's like a very good in-between matte and glossy. I do love the vibrancy on glossy screens, but I might just not want to deal with reflections all together, especially when I have been moving around a lot lately..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Huh, interesting. 100% and I have not heard of this seller before your post.


----------



## DeadGivaway

After an afternoon of tearing my hair out, I have come to the conclusion that my display no longer supports 120Hz. It also doesn't seem to like CRU very much, I've only been able to get back up to 96Hz using the catleap inf and Nvidia CP. If I use CRU then on reboot the monitor makes a clucking noise and goes black, with the blue power LED flashing on and off. As if it's taunting me.

Now, how do I detect/ ensure that games are using 96Hz instead of 60? Force Vsync through nvidia cp?


----------



## killerfrenzi

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/flashwiz/dp2710led-event.jpg
does this broke english banner mean I'll be getting a 0-2 dead pixel monitor?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/flashwiz/dp2710led-event.jpg
> does this broke english banner mean I'll be getting a 0-2 dead pixel monitor?


Yes, it does/should.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Forewarning: Sorry for my terrible grammar.
> 
> Review of QNIX pixel perfect:
> Seller: allkillsale
> price: $320
> 
> Last month I ordered a crossover blade and regretted it the day after it shipped, I knew it was going to be an awesome monitor however this thread convinced me of the higher fidelity of the PLS panel. My crossover came in five days after the order was placed with the box in perfect condition. After setting it up the monitor booted without a hitch the colours were incredible however it shipped with 7-12 dead pixels in the corner, this alone would not warrant me attempting to send it back to korea however there was atrocious light bleed seen here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/irGD6
> 
> 
> This was tolerable but left me disappointed, I attempted to fix both issues with massaging and taking off the back panel however the screws were so tightly in place I was unable to remove the bezel. I contacted allkillsale and that night he replied eager to help me. I sent him the pictures and without a fuss he agreed to replace the monitor. After quite a few friendly emails that were replied to promptly he agreed to swap my purchase to a QNIX pixel perfect monitor with minimal light bleed. He didn't have them at his shop at the time so he bought a batch to specially accommodate me even after he paid for the return shipping of the monitor. I couldn't be happier with the service that allkillsale provided and I would highly recommend him as a seller, his 100% ebay reputation is the truth and he definitely earned a customer. The monitor will be arriving tonight and I will do a full review when it does as well as a non-technical comparison of the experience of the crossover vs the qnix.


Taking up to posts because I'm a badass,

Monitor arrived in amazing condition, box again not damaged. This time however it arrived in 2 days!!!! from Korea to Canada, import fees were $18 opposed to the previous monitor which was $26.











I opened up the package and was intrigued that they used the exact same packaging style and that it shipped with the same cords. Once I pulled out the monitor I was flabbergasted that the back, stand, buttons,bezel and inputs were the same as my Crossover blade. It is literally identical externally to the blade.

Fired it up and no interference cause in my speakers, displayed 1440p with no configuration required. Colours seem identical to the crossover but as others have said contrast is slightly better making things pop out for the wow factor a more. As said it was pixel perfect, there is light bleed but nothing compared to the blade I received. I am extremely happy with the change the gloss may get annoying but my computer is in a dungeon so it is not a problem as of this moment. The stand does not have enough surface area to properly deal with movement but it looks nice and keeps the monitor straight. I used to use a 32inch tv so the pixel density makes everything smooth so much so that it is indescribable.













Would I buy another monitor from allkillsale knowing that it would be bad and then dealing with it?

Absolutely, I wasn't stressed for a second about the state of these affairs even the extra time it took to receive the monitor made it a better purchase than a monitor sold in NA. Overclocking next, probably tommorow.

PS: monitor shows up as dual dvi which is strange.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> After an afternoon of tearing my hair out, I have come to the conclusion that my display no longer supports 120Hz. It also doesn't seem to like CRU very much, I've only been able to get back up to 96Hz using the catleap inf and Nvidia CP. If I use CRU then on reboot the monitor makes a clucking noise and goes black, with the blue power LED flashing on and off. As if it's taunting me.
> 
> Now, how do I detect/ ensure that games are using 96Hz instead of 60? Force Vsync through nvidia cp?


Hm, I am not even using CRU myself, just the Catleap INF and the driver patch + nv control panel custom resolutions. Have you tried resetting the CRU stuff and not using that, at 120hz?

Also, I'm sorry to ask yet again but no one has answered yet and I wanted to know... can someone look at my post here?







http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1400_40#post_19984522


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Hm, I am not even using CRU myself, just the Catleap INF and the driver patch + nv control panel custom resolutions. Have you tried resetting the CRU stuff and not using that, at 120hz?
> 
> Also, I'm sorry to ask yet again but no one has answered yet and I wanted to know... can someone look at my post here?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1400_40#post_19984522


I used CRU and my monitor achieved 120hz with darkening(In the corners moreso)


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> I used CRU and my monitor achieved 120hz with darkening.


Hm, think I'll stick to 96hz then, though I guess if I'm going to go for 120 I may as well do it within the month exchange period instead of after







.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Hm, think I'll stick to 96hz then, though I guess if I'm going to go for 120 I may as well do it within the month exchange period instead of after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ya I might turn it down to 96hz colours don't seem to look as good without the brightness, I achieved 144hz however I do not consider half the brightness stable. Still it feels nice to know you have a better monitor than anyone can buy in north america







. I can't run most games past 96 hz with a 670 anyway lol


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Hm, think I'll stick to 96hz then, though I guess if I'm going to go for 120 I may as well do it within the month exchange period instead of after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Also with all my vast monitor knowledge(none) I do not see a problem running it at a higher frequency, its not like you are fighting against an overheating monitor it just simply cannot organize the frames it wants to display in time.


----------



## LarsMarkelson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Ya I might turn it down to 96hz colours don't seem to look as good without the brightness, I achieved 144hz however I do not consider half the brightness stable. Still it feels nice to know you have a better monitor than anyone can buy in north america


Seriously. It's the best tech you can get in a consumer monitor (with 120hz) and it's really cheap. How can this be?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Ya I might turn it down to 96hz colours don't seem to look as good without the brightness, I achieved 144hz however I do not consider half the brightness stable. Still it feels nice to know you have a better monitor than anyone can buy in north america
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I can't run most games past 96 hz with a 670 anyway lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Also with all my vast monitor knowledge(none) I do not see a problem running it at a higher frequency, its not like you are fighting against an overheating monitor it just simply cannot organize the frames it wants to display in time.


Good points.... and yeah, the color definitely seems better at 96hz by far than 120hz in the dimmer/darker areas. I do like the motion difference, but 96hz is still very responsive and I doubt I'd be able to hold 120fps in most newer games with a single 780 anyway at this point in time







. 96 is a nice even multiple of 24 still so...







. The difference from 60 to 96 is very large, while 96 to 120 is a good change but not nearly as monumental (medium instead of gigantic) in my opinion.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LarsMarkelson*
> 
> Seriously. It's the best tech you can get in a consumer monitor (with 120hz) and it's really cheap. How can this be?


I love it







.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LarsMarkelson*
> 
> Seriously. It's the best tech you can get in a consumer monitor (with 120hz) and it's really cheap. How can this be?


LG and Samsung are based in Korea. Much like Mercedes they want to keep their status as a luxury brand by having artificially high prices, many people will buy things based off price and not reviews. They take cherry picked samples from the factory and use them in their products leaving a bunch of "unwanted displays", they sell them locally for cheap. American companies often use a simple hierarchy structure in which the more you pay the better you get without this structure they would be unable to sell 120hz 1080p monitors for $400.

(blah blah, ramble ramble, I feel like that sucked so I won't edit it







)


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Good points.... and yeah, the color definitely seems better at 96hz by far than 120hz in the dimmer/darker areas. I do like the motion difference, but 96hz is still very responsive and I doubt I'd be able to hold 120fps in most newer games with a single 780 anyway at this point in time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . 96 is a nice even multiple of 24 still so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The difference from 60 to 96 is very large, while 96 to 120 is a good change but not nearly as monumental (medium instead of gigantic) in my opinion.


Is there a problem with using 112 ?


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Yes, it does/should.


so I'm basically better off buying from hulustar http://www.ebay.com/itm/130889054084
than from green-sum? http://www.ebay.com/itm/111063766076 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/121103712632


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Is there a problem with using 112 ?


No, but multiples of 24 work best especially for watching any video on the display. I also think 96 is a good sweet spot for colors being vivid and bright still while giving a good refresh rate. The uniformity issue becomes larger the higher you go on refresh rates. 120hz would work well for games mostly (although it's definitely less vibrant at the top right for me if I'm gaming at 120hz, not distractingly so or anything). I likely will end up gaming at 120hz anyway and keep it at 60 or 96 for desktop use, honestly... the smoothness is amazing and even with the uniformity change it's nothing I notice while gaming particularly.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> so I'm basically better off buying from hulustar http://www.ebay.com/itm/130889054084
> than from green-sum? http://www.ebay.com/itm/111063766076 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/121103712632


If you want the pixel-perfect-type promotion, then yeah... I'm not honestly sure how meaningful it is though.


----------



## killerfrenzi

would I be just wasting $30 on the 'pixel perfect' from green-sum when hulustar is basically doing the same thing at $300?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> would I be just wasting $30 on the 'pixel perfect' from green-sum when hulustar is basically doing the same thing at $300?


There's no way to know for sure... I'd guess that you're more likely to get one with no pixels dead/stuck on a "pixel-perfect" listing, but it's definitely not a 100% sure thing. It's really up to you whether the extra $30 is worth it for the better chance or not







. Personally I tend towards thinking it isn't that big of a likelihood you'd get one with issues in the first place, though.


----------



## DeadGivaway

It's hard to justify a 10% increase in price when most people have been getting 0-2 stuck/dead pixels without paying the premium.


----------



## Jboss

@Feild Scarecrow

All of our monitors are displayed as DVI monitor, no worries.


----------



## OneGun

Has anyone ever bought one off amazon from EcoMade Arena?


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> *QUESTION* I'm seeing a possibly different brightness uniformity at 120hz than 96hz, particularly at the top right area vs. the other quadrants of the screen. Other than it darkening colors, should I be concerned with that or just enjoy? I know the uniformity is supposed to worsen with refresh rate boosts, but am curious how it compares to others' panels...
> 
> 96hz picture with my phone (intended to show the uniformity difference brightness-wise, it's just from my cell phone and is dimmer than it looks in-person, the blue/yellow tinging is pretty accurate though across the panel)):
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz of the same:
> 
> 
> Should I be concerned at all? To me it looks like the same uniformity difference but just more visible because of the dimmer display at 120hz compared to 96hz (as everyone has mentioned PLS panels darken some at higher refresh). Both pictures taken with max brightness.


At 135 the left side of my screen gets darker then my right side, so yeah that is definitely due to OCing. Will it damage the monitor? I think so.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> sounds like it's like a very good in-between matte and glossy. I do love the vibrancy on glossy screens, but I might just not want to deal with reflections all together, especially when I have been moving around a lot lately..


I won't say its inbetween matte and gloss because the matte does a great job of removing all the reflections, if you check the pics in my review you won't see any evidence of flash being used, while taking the pictures, thats because of the matte screen.
I just think this matte coating is so slim that it does almost no damage to color vibrance and clarity.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Huh, interesting. 100% and I have not heard of this seller before your post.


Yup, me too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> would I be just wasting $30 on the 'pixel perfect' from green-sum when hulustar is basically doing the same thing at $300?


Yup. There hasn't been any case of more then 0-2 dead pixels on these panels anyway.


----------



## damianzmd

Anyone who has delt with *hulustar* able to help me? I've bought a QX2710 for $317 from him/her and its been 24 hours and still hasnt been marked as sent nor have I gotten any message about it. I contacted him/her a few hours ago regarding it but no reply. I live in Melbourne, Australia so we are only one hour ahead in time from Seoul, rather hard to get in contact with.


----------



## loki23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damianzmd*
> 
> Anyone who has delt with *hulustar* able to help me? I've bought a QX2710 for $317 from him/her and its been 24 hours and still hasnt been marked as sent nor have I gotten any message about it. I contacted him/her a few hours ago regarding it but no reply. I live in Melbourne, Australia so we are only one hour ahead in time from Seoul, rather hard to get in contact with.


I didn't get tracking or an email right away, but once I did get an email the package had already been shipped and was showing movement. 2-3 days and the monitors was at my door.


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damianzmd*
> 
> Anyone who has delt with *hulustar* able to help me? I've bought a QX2710 for $317 from him/her and its been 24 hours and still hasnt been marked as sent nor have I gotten any message about it. I contacted him/her a few hours ago regarding it but no reply. I live in Melbourne, Australia so we are only one hour ahead in time from Seoul, rather hard to get in contact with.


They have holidays today. Wait till Monday...


----------



## damianzmd

Thanks for the replies guys, just a little paranoid. $300 seems like its too good to be true lol!

EDIT: The 17th is Buddha's Birthday Public Holiday! Mighty expect mine to come on Tuesday then lol


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Has anyone ever bought one off amazon from EcoMade Arena?


That is where I bought mine. If you go back and look at previous posts, I am having problems with my monitor. I have the "black screen" issue or so I have been told. They have been communicating well with me on how to fix the problem but right now nothing has worked. I am waiting on a new DL DVI cable to come in to see if it is the cable. I will continue to update here my status.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damianzmd*
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys, just a little paranoid. $300 seems like its too good to be true lol!
> 
> EDIT: The 17th is Buddha's Birthday Public Holiday! Mighty expect mine to come on Tuesday then lol


Wait, Holiday? Like i shouldn't be in school?
What is this world we live in!


----------



## damianzmd

Can anyone shed light on what it'd be like to play on 1080p with these monitors (QX2710 specifically). As I only have a GTX560 til later in the year, and I probably have no chance playing Metro Last Light, BF3 etc on 1440p!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Wait, Holiday? Like i shouldn't be in school?
> What is this world we live in!


Should be given a day off and a free QNIX QX2710


----------



## brightbus

So question guys. I'm contemplating buying a second one of these monitors. Right now I'm running dual 7870's one qnix qx2710, a aoc 23 inch and a dell 23 inch. If I got a second qnix Id just run those 2. Now to run the second one, would I require a mini display port to dvi-d dual link adapter? Kind of sucks that these adapters seem to run from 70-100 dollars.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> That is where I bought mine. If you go back and look at previous posts, I am having problems with my monitor. I have the "black screen" issue or so I have been told. They have been communicating well with me on how to fix the problem but right now nothing has worked. I am waiting on a new DL DVI cable to come in to see if it is the cable. I will continue to update here my status.


I ran mine fine for two weeks with only the top pin of the DVI cable screwed in tight on the display side and could not get any image suddenly on Tuesday. Eventually figured out I needed to take my time and make sure both sides were completely tight.


----------



## loltune

Hi,
I just received my QNIX QX2710 but unfortunately I got a bad one. Can anyone else help me if this is a dust on the screen or defective screen? I didn't expect to be this bad it a huge green patch on the middle of the screen very annoying it is very visible on the black/dark background. Less noticable on the white or bright background. And what should I do to correct this or maybe just ship it back. Thanks


----------



## Beatwolf

Got a bill from UPS today to pay taxes. 250 DKK which is 43 USD. Not a lot, for a monitor without dead pixels and not much lightbleed. Excellentcastle marked it lower value automatically.
All in all I can highly recommend excellentcastle for shipping time, communication and packaging.

Also got a new DVI-D cable today (Clicktronic), unfortunately my GTX680 is RMA'ed so I´m stuck with a 5450 which won´t run the monitor and is noisy as hell.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loltune*
> 
> Hi,
> I just received my QNIX QX2710 but unfortunately I got a bad one. Can anyone else help me if this is a dust on the screen or defective screen? I didn't expect to be this bad it a huge green patch on the middle of the screen very annoying it is very visible on the black/dark background. Less noticable on the white or bright background. And what should I do to correct this or maybe just ship it back. Thanks


I wouldn´t even start messing with that. Send it back.


----------



## brightbus

That looks like a return to me, a bad screen perhaps.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

You sure about that? I have an XFX passive 5450 512MB in my server box and it runs this display fine (at least I saw the machines BIOS when I hooked it up during testing when I couldn't get an image off my main rig...cable not attached tightly enough was the issue)


----------



## fagoatse

Call me paranoid but once i noticed it i just cant stop thinking about it.



the last pic pretty much shows how large the gap is if you wish to compare. I've already seen people with the same problem here.
I do understand that there's supposed to be a black outline around the edges but i doubt its supposed to be this large(~ 2mm).
Anyway, can a n00b tinker such as myself fix it easily?


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Got a bill from UPS today to pay taxes. 250 DKK which is 43 USD. Not a lot, for a monitor without dead pixels and not much lightbleed. Excellentcastle marked it lower value automatically.
> All in all I can highly recommend excellentcastle for shipping time, communication and packaging.
> 
> Also got a new DVI-D cable today (Clicktronic), unfortunately my GTX680 is RMA'ed so I´m stuck with a 5450 which won´t run the monitor and is noisy as hell.


That's not bad at all. According to this: http://www.toldpriser.dk/toldberegner i would have to pay around 500 DKK for customs and a 160 DKK from shipping. By buying a 1770 DKK (309$) Display.

EDIT: Also that's 60 euro for one meter? Thats insane, you might as well have bought this: http://www.av-cables.dk/dvi-d-kabler/clicktronic-dvi-d-dual-link-kabel-1-m.html

Also when choosing a cable, how do you know which Dvi - D that's good?
For example here: http://www.av-cables.dk/dvi-d-kabler/ (Danish site i know, bare with that) There are tons of different cables, at different price ranges. How do i know which is better?


----------



## antipesto93

Ouch, Just had to pay £44 customs from green-sum


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damianzmd*
> 
> Can anyone shed light on what it'd be like to play on 1080p with these monitors (QX2710 specifically). As I only have a GTX560 til later in the year, and I probably have no chance playing Metro Last Light, BF3 etc on 1440p!


In my extremely brief experience with gaming at 1080p on this thing, it looked blurry and bad. Another thing you might want to try is 2560x1080 and then you can pretend you have one of those $650 21:9 displays. You'll have black bars top and bottom, but it will avoid any scaling artifacts as all the pixels being used are 1:1 with the source image.

@Loltune: Definitely box it back up and start the return/exchange process. That is way past what a reasonable person would be expected to accept in a brand new monitor. Ask the seller to test the new one before sending it.


----------



## killerfrenzi

just ordered my X-star from hulustar, should I have gotten the squaretrade warranty? idk if it was worth it.

edit: oh wth, the squaretrade warranty went up to $50, I thought it was $30 from yesterday


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> That's not bad at all. According to this: http://www.toldpriser.dk/toldberegner i would have to pay around 500 DKK for customs and a 160 DKK from shipping. By buying a 1770 DKK (309$) Display.
> 
> EDIT: Also that's 60 euro for one meter? Thats insane, you might as well have bought this: http://www.av-cables.dk/dvi-d-kabler/clicktronic-dvi-d-dual-link-kabel-1-m.html
> 
> Also when choosing a cable, how do you know which Dvi - D that's good?
> For example here: http://www.av-cables.dk/dvi-d-kabler/ (Danish site i know, bare with that) There are tons of different cables, at different price ranges. How do i know which is better?


I didn´t pay that amount. I payed 220 kr including shipping for 2m from the exact site you´re linking too







Look at the AWG to see how thick the cable is.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> @Loltune: Definitely box it back up and start the return/exchange process. That is way past what a reasonable person would be expected to accept in a brand new monitor. Ask the seller to test the new one before sending it.


Well this also looks to be related to panel play and if so he could possibly fix it himself by just holding the thing up side down and jerking it downwards. Or open it up for the tape mod where you essentially make the protrusions larger that the panel rests on...

Personally, I would be trying everything possible before I were to ship the damn thing back to the other side of the planet even if I knew for certain I would be receiving a better one in return.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loltune*
> 
> Hi,
> I just received my QNIX QX2710 but unfortunately I got a bad one. Can anyone else help me if this is a dust on the screen or defective screen? I didn't expect to be this bad it a huge green patch on the middle of the screen very annoying it is very visible on the black/dark background. Less noticable on the white or bright background. And what should I do to correct this or maybe just ship it back. Thanks


Wow I have never seen anything like that.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well this also looks to be related to panel play


How so?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Personally, I would be trying everything possible before I were to ship the damn thing back to the other side of the planet even if I knew for certain I would be receiving a better one in return.


I respectfully disagree. In that situation I would not do anything that might possibly jeopardize the warranty or give the seller any opportunity to claim I did something to cause the problem.


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> ~SNIP~
> 
> PS: monitor shows up as dual dvi which is strange.


Im glad you like the monitor. Mine shows up as a Dual DVI as well. This supports my claim that the Qnix and Xstars are the same monitor. The korean sellers take out the OSD PCBs and put a custom one inside and use the same panels in both monitors. Only thing that is different between the two is the name on the front.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damianzmd*
> 
> Can anyone shed light on what it'd be like to play on 1080p with these monitors (QX2710 specifically). As I only have a GTX560 til later in the year, and I probably have no chance playing Metro Last Light, BF3 etc on 1440p!
> Should be given a day off and a free QNIX QX2710


I completed BF3 on my gtx 560 and the graphics were phenomenal. Also, don't choose the preset settings play around with them to get the best graphics (highres texture and details enviornment) remove AA, its of no use at this resolution. Turn of VSync and I have never like motion blur.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loltune*
> 
> Hi,
> I just received my QNIX QX2710 but unfortunately I got a bad one. Can anyone else help me if this is a dust on the screen or defective screen? I didn't expect to be this bad it a huge green patch on the middle of the screen very annoying it is very visible on the black/dark background. Less noticable on the white or bright background. And what should I do to correct this or maybe just ship it back. Thanks


Return it, get a new one and one's its shipped ask for partial refund for your time and energy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> Call me paranoid but once i noticed it i just cant stop thinking about it.
> 
> 
> 
> the last pic pretty much shows how large the gap is if you wish to compare. I've already seen people with the same problem here.
> I do understand that there's supposed to be a black outline around the edges but i doubt its supposed to be this large(~ 2mm).
> Anyway, can a n00b tinker such as myself fix it easily?


No there isn't supposed to be a black outline all around the panel, or maybe its just me.
I also have that 0.2mm gap at the top but it doesn't bother me, specially because the bezel is beautifully glossy. You can easily fix that, just open the front casing and add electrical tape where the panel sits, to raise it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> just ordered my X-star from hulustar, should I have gotten the squaretrade warranty? idk if it was worth it.
> 
> edit: oh wth, the squaretrade warranty went up to $50, I thought it was $30 from yesterday


Yes, its highly recommended, specially since we don't know how long this think will last in the long run.


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> So question guys. I'm contemplating buying a second one of these monitors. Right now I'm running dual 7870's one qnix qx2710, a aoc 23 inch and a dell 23 inch. If I got a second qnix Id just run those 2. Now to run the second one, would I require a mini display port to dvi-d dual link adapter? Kind of sucks that these adapters seem to run from 70-100 dollars.


I too would like to know the answer to that. I only have one DVI-D and 2 mini-DPs. I might just try to figure this out when my first one gets here.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> How so?
> I respectfully disagree. In that situation I would not do anything that might possibly jeopardize the warranty or give the seller any opportunity to claim I did something to cause the problem.


True in most cases except the sellers don't even advertise any warranty and I only know that there is apparently a "one year" from the manufacturer from a passing mention here. Has anyone actually sent theirs back yet? I'm sure some of the IPS buyers have but I know no details.


----------



## DeadGivaway

The one year warranty was mentioned in the description of my monitor on ebay.

In other news, I can run @ 120Hz if I use the EVGA pixel clock OC utility, but I have a feeling once I reboot the login screen won't show up again. It seems that whatever video mode Windows uses between the loading logo and the login screen is causing an issue. I also am able to turn the monitor off and then back on while already logged in and running 120hz and it has no problem displaying properly then. Anybody have ideas? I'm getting tired of reinstalling the graphics drivers.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Fair enough. Had mine been dead of course I'd be trying to send it back.


----------



## Hegro

Okay, must say that my monitor is beautiful. For the most part what I expected. Very minimal back light bleeding in the bottom left corner and even less in the bottom right corner. Not going to look for dead pixels, not right now anyways. Only complaint I do have maybe you guys can help me with? The bottom bezel is warped a little and sticks out from the screen a little. I can possibly get a picture later to better illustrate but it warps out a little and I can kind of see down inside. Is there anyway I can take it apart and fix it? Might just be unconnected somewhere but I am sure it is the crappy build quality.







Or do people just debezal these monitors? Thank you.









Gonna go run through some Bioshock real quick before work.

ALSO, what should I be doing with this thing right out of the box? All I have done is plug it in. Should I be formatting or any tweaking? Thank you much.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Okay, must say that my monitor is beautiful. For the most part what I expected. Very minimal back light bleeding in the bottom left corner and even less in the bottom right corner. Not going to look for dead pixels, not right now anyways. Only complaint I do have maybe you guys can help me with? The bottom bezel is warped a little and sticks out from the screen a little. I can possibly get a picture later to better illustrate but it warps out a little and I can kind of see down inside. Is there anyway I can take it apart and fix it? Might just be unconnected somewhere but I am sure it is the crappy build quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or do people just debezal these monitors? Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna go run through some Bioshock real quick before work.
> 
> ALSO, what should I be doing with this thing right out of the box? All I have done is plug it in. Should I be formatting or any tweaking? Thank you much.


Debezal? Sounds like some satanic god







. On the first page there is a description of a method some people have used to remove panel-play, maybe that can help with your situation.

You shouldn´t format, its just a monitor. Try to overclock it if you want. Otherwise just enjoy it.,


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Debezal? Sounds like some satanic god
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . On the first page there is a description of a method some people have used to remove panel-play, maybe that can help with your situation.
> 
> You shouldn´t format, its just a monitor. Try to overclock it if you want. Otherwise just enjoy it.,


Yeah.. thought I misspelled. Haha. The gap comes out. Like it isn't held tight against the screen. I thought I was reading everyone else has problems with the bezel being off center? Idk. I need to go to work though. Thanks for any help you guys give me. Will be back in 6-7 hours.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> I have a question, i have minor backlight bleed at the very middle top of my screen but i'm wondering if the success rate of that backlight bleed fix is 100% successful or not. Is there also a chance that it might create more backlight bleed if not done right?
> 
> I think when i press on the bezel at the top the backlight bleed dissipates a bit, that's something i can fix by relieving or adding pressure to the bezel? If i do decide to disassemble it, it's going to be a HUGE pain in the ass as my monitor is already wall mounted so i would have to take off the wall mount and what not to do this haha.


It is not a 100% solution to fix the bleed. I have been able to successfully fix a lot of bleed on both of my panels except for one spot on the bottom left that looks like a flashlight cone coming from the bottom. Can't get rid of it and I've done the massage and tape trick and it won't go away. Very annoying.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dascth*
> 
> Wow, I missed a lot. I don't think I can catch up. We had a baby and I've been out of the loop. Upon trying to edit some newborn pics I noticed color banding on my Qnix in Lightroom, especially in over-exposed photos. I actually narrowed it down to my calibration. If anyone else notices this, let me know if the profile below fixes it. I made a new calibration profile using a matrix-based profile instead of LUT, which is more compatible with applications and is supposedly "smoother" at the expense of absolute accuracy. My banding problem went away and I see no tangible inaccuracy.
> 
> Profile:
> 
> QX2710 60Hz - 2013-05-15 D6500 2.22 HQ 3xCurve+MTX.zip 11k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here's what banding looks like (upped exposure to exaggerate):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here's the original pic just to show of my new baby :) :


Congratulations on your new baby. Very precious and cute.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> I can't decide if I want matte or glossy


You will not be disappointed by the matte. This is without a doubt the best 27" ips panel i've seen the clarity and color are outstanding.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Awesome...except it's PLS!









And posts can be edited to avoid such a triple. No biggie but better forum etiquette.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> La Jolla is a sunny place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The matte is super nice semi-gloss to boot.


I work in La Jolla, so I know this to be true.


----------



## Coolio831

Just got my monoprice cables in ordered 3 24AWG. Man these things are huge! I'm happy to report my scan line went away and was able to push the screen up to 135 but had scan lines everywhere, then I tried 130 and had maybe half a dozen scan line. Scan lines went away at 127 and i decided to settle at 120Hz. I'm sure I can get 130 stable with 600 series gpu and tweaking the timings!







This monitor gets better everyday. I didn't test the other 2 cables as I think i got the best one so far and i don't wanna put stress on the dvi ports. I'll get pics up in a bit.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> i don't wanna put stress on the dvi ports.


Good plan.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Just got my monoprice cables in ordered 3 24AWG. Man these things are huge! I'm happy to report my scan line went away and was able to push the screen up to 135 but had scan lines everywhere, then I tried 130 and had maybe half a dozen scan line. Scan lines went away at 127 and i decided to settle at 120Hz. I'm sure I can get 130 stable with 600 series gpu and tweaking the timings!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This monitor gets better everyday. I didn't test the other 2 cables as I think i got the best one so far and i don't wanna put stress on the dvi ports. I'll get pics up in a bit.


Just curious but what hz did you get on stock cable?


----------



## fake13371

(I have 1 GTX 560 Ti)

I applied the new beta driver from nvidia (320.14) and applied the full/SLI version of the patch. With this I managed to go from 96Hz up to 110Hz with LCD Reduced. 120Hz works but I get those scan lines.

Could people post their custom timings for 120Hz? I don't wanna give up on running full 120Hz just yet.

EDIT: After further testing my monitor seems to work as it should at 119Hz with LCD reduced. So I really can't imagine there needs to be done a lot of tweaking to hit the magic 120Hz.

This is the X-Star DP2710 for anyone curious.


----------



## slh28

I have a question which I know it's been posted somewhere but can't seem to find it...
How do you verify that the screen is actually running at 120Hz? There was some sort of a motion test I think.

Also is there anything extra I need to do to make games run at 120Hz? I'm running 7970's in CF.

Reason I ask is because I don't seem to notice any difference when gaming... the mouse cursor is smoother though.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Just curious but what hz did you get on stock cable?


I got 115 stable with automatic timings, at 120Hz I had to use manual timings 2704/1446 (with one or 2 lines on black background web pages). 121+ had scan lines all over the screen as if the screen had went on a acid trip. This new cable is way over built, its of high quality.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> I have a question which I know it's been posted somewhere but can't seem to find it...
> How do you verify that the screen is actually running at 120Hz? There was some sort of a motion test I think.
> 
> Also is there anything extra I need to do to make games run at 120Hz? I'm running 7970's in CF.
> 
> Reason I ask is because I don't seem to notice any difference when gaming... the mouse cursor is smoother though.


Move your browser window to the left and right quickly, If you see smooth motion than you'll know your at 120Hz.


----------



## LarsMarkelson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> I have a question which I know it's been posted somewhere but can't seem to find it...
> How do you verify that the screen is actually running at 120Hz? There was some sort of a motion test I think.
> 
> Also is there anything extra I need to do to make games run at 120Hz? I'm running 7970's in CF.
> 
> Reason I ask is because I don't seem to notice any difference when gaming... the mouse cursor is smoother though.


Your games will have to be running at a steady for 120fps for you to notice it I believe.

The main test for me is to put my monitor on a black background and swirl the mouse around. Count the points the mouse makes on the circles you're drawing, then move the mouse to a diff monitor that is 60hz if you have one and do the same thing. Or you could switch the resolution to a lower hertz if you have 1 monitor.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> I got 115 stable with automatic timings, at 120Hz I had to use manual timings 2704/1446 (with one or 2 lines on black background web pages). 121+ had scan lines all over the screen as if the screen had went on a acid trip. This new cable is way over built, its of high quality.
> Move your browser window to the left and right quickly, If you see smooth motion than you'll know your at 120Hz.


I know, for any one running windows 8, if you scroll through the metro apps, theres a huge difference.


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LarsMarkelson*
> 
> Your games will have to be running at a steady for 120fps for you to notice it I believe.


My games do run at 120+ fps in the MSI Afterburner log with vsync disabled. Somehow I don't really notice any increase in smoothness. Maybe it's the microstutter?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Move your browser window to the left and right quickly, If you see smooth motion than you'll know your at 120Hz.


Yeah the desktop is definitely running at 120Hz. That's a good test actually, more noticeable than just looking at the mouse cursor.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> In other news, I can run @ 120Hz if I use the EVGA pixel clock OC utility, but I have a feeling once I reboot the login screen won't show up again. It seems that whatever video mode Windows uses between the loading logo and the login screen is causing an issue. I also am able to turn the monitor off and then back on while already logged in and running 120hz and it has no problem displaying properly then. Anybody have ideas? I'm getting tired of reinstalling the graphics drivers.


The workaround I'm using for now is that I just keep the monitor at 96Hz on the desktop, but the EVGA tool seems to have added a custom res for me in NVCP for 120Hz. I used Nvidia Inspector to set the option for games to prefer the maximum refresh rate of the display. This should mean that games run @120Hz, and I'm still able to reboot cleanly (verified.)


----------



## Methadras

Okay, if anyone can help me that would be great. I've done the tape mod on both of my monitors, but one monitor has in the bottom of the bezel in the lower left portion is a bad bit of backlight bleed that looks like a flashlight cone. How can I get rid of that or at least minimize it?

I'll try to get you guys a picture tonight if I can. Otherwise, these monitors are fantastic. No dead pixels on either, one monitor I was able to minimize backlight bleed to nearly zero. The other monitor is the one with that one little section of backlight bleed.


----------



## Spartan F8

This came up in teh overclocking thread for PLS displays and i thought it might be a good idea to add to our members list.

"""""""""""""""""

Messed around with settings a lot, found a low pixel clock one and believe I'm at my max now.

Occasional green lines max: 118hz
No green lines/perfect picture max: 108hz

Thinking strongly about upgrading to an Nvidia card to hit 120hz cleanly, as I've read Nvidia is superior to AMD for hertz overclocking.

""""""""""""""""""
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah...I don't know about that dude. Can't say I have heard the same. I sure as hell would not buy another card if based on that hearsay alone. Though I do have a GTX 480 I don't need...


I think people with nvidia have been seeing a bit better results since i have been keeping tabs over the PLS club since it started. I think a good addition that would help this distinction would be to add a video card type to the members list chart. I will go over there and suggest it for you guys


----------



## chughes65

Does anyone know if these will work with a DVI-D to mini-DP adaptor? I have seen it asked multiple times but haven't seen an answer. I am also at the beach so I can't check the OP to see anything there. On mobile. I want a second monitor and need to know if I have to save for a new card first, Haha.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I don't know I want to try as I have two ports and adapters at work too but I keep forgetting to bring one home.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> My games do run at 120+ fps in the MSI Afterburner log with vsync disabled. Somehow I don't really notice any increase in smoothness. Maybe it's the microstutter?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LarsMarkelson*
> 
> Your games will have to be running at a steady for 120fps for you to notice it I believe.


No not totally...this isn't really an exact science or what have you like most other things related to computers are. But it certainly _has more potential to be noticed_ the closer you get to your refresh rate value. Some people can perceive this type of stuff in general better than others anyway. As I have said before, one thing I can say I notice for sure (even in games like CS where I can push 120 easily) is no more eye strain after longer periods of gaming. Sure, it's *smooth* but I can't say I see and feel a major difference compared to 60 Hz. But maybe I should now go back and try 60 again before I make that final call.

Edit: Oops didn't mean to double post though appears can't delete from this forum...?


----------



## brightbus

Well, I went and ordered another one, this time from Hulustar. Hopefully its just as good as my first one, without all the shipping issues I had before.


----------



## chughes65

Let a brother know when you check it out! Right now I'm running my QNIX beside a bootleg 24" sceptre that was free lol I'd love to upgrade that soon.


----------



## crimelol

Well my X-star from bigclothcraft that I got about a week ago is awesome. Pixels are perfect, I've got a small bit of light bleed on the bottom center but it OCs to 120hz no problem.

I also use a 670.


----------



## chughes65

Found this, I know it's catleaps, but I assume it would work by the same principals? So for everyone wondering about the miniDP to DVI-D could check this out.

http://www.themardukreport.com/yamakasi-catleap-q270-update-doubling-down/


----------



## miket5au

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> In my extremely brief experience with gaming at 1080p on this thing, it looked blurry and bad. Another thing you might want to try is 2560x1080 and then you can pretend you have one of those $650 21:9 displays. You'll have black bars top and bottom, but it will avoid any scaling artifacts as all the pixels being used are 1:1 with the source image.


I played Peggle and Age Of Empires III, both of which don't allow going above 1080p.

The image was scaled to fit the screen (keeping the aspect ration so there are black bars on the sides).

I didn't think the image looked too bad. Peggle looks about the same as it did on my 26in Viewsonic (1920x1200 screen) as it always scaled the image as it gives no resolution settings at all. Age of Empires looks pretty bad at its initial resolution but improves when you set it to 1920x1200.

The reality is it will look okay - think about how a movie looks - the VCR looks rubbish, DVD was a big step up and then Blu-Ray was another improvemnt. It is like going back to DVD! We didn't know how bad Video Tapes were before DVD came out! Then when Full HD TVs arrived we realised how bad the Standard Def TVs were.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chughes65*
> 
> Found this, I know it's catleaps, but I assume it would work by the same principals? So for everyone wondering about the miniDP to DVI-D could check this out.
> 
> http://www.themardukreport.com/yamakasi-catleap-q270-update-doubling-down/


Someone in the thread earlier said multiples would worth with a dvi-i dual link port as long as the cable was dvi-d dual link


----------



## ieatchairs

Just received my Matte X-Star in the mail today! No dead pixels and no noticeable backlight bleed (not that I've actually tested for it). I'm very happy with my purchase!

I picked it up for $295 from bigclothcraft. Ordered on Tuesday, had it shipped out on Wednesday, and got it on Friday! Not bad considering it came from Korea. It was declared as something like $82 and got through customs to Canada for $22 via UPS.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This came up in teh overclocking thread for PLS displays and i thought it might be a good idea to add to our members list.
> 
> """""""""""""""""
> 
> Messed around with settings a lot, found a low pixel clock one and believe I'm at my max now.
> 
> Occasional green lines max: 118hz
> No green lines/perfect picture max: 108hz
> 
> Thinking strongly about upgrading to an Nvidia card to hit 120hz cleanly, as I've read Nvidia is superior to AMD for hertz overclocking.
> 
> """"""""""""""""""
> I think people with nvidia have been seeing a bit better results since i have been keeping tabs over the PLS club since it started. I think a good addition that would help this distinction would be to add a video card type to the members list chart. I will go over there and suggest it for you guys


I can't confirm this, and believe me I would be the first person to complain about AMD cards and drivers. I been having a terrible time with my tri fire 7970's this year, so I would be the first to admit and point my finger at AMD. But I can't say I see any evidence that its harder to hit 120hz on AMD. I'm using a 15ft Cable that I had laying around from monoprice and its hitting 120hz just fine I have not tried any other cables yet, also haven't tried going higher clocks yet.
From reading the threads to me high end GPU's like 7970, 7950, 680, 670, Titan will have no problem with 120hz. Its not a AMD vs. Nvidia thing with this.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I didn´t pay that amount. I payed 220 kr including shipping for 2m from the exact site you´re linking too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the AWG to see how thick the cable is.


Oh, you scared me for a sec there!

So basically thicker is better?


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fake13371*
> 
> (I have 1 GTX 560 Ti)
> 
> I applied the new beta driver from nvidia (320.14) and applied the full/SLI version of the patch. With this I managed to go from 96Hz up to 110Hz with LCD Reduced. 120Hz works but I get those scan lines.
> 
> Could people post their custom timings for 120Hz? I don't wanna give up on running full 120Hz just yet.
> 
> EDIT: After further testing my monitor seems to work as it should at 119Hz with LCD reduced. So I really can't imagine there needs to be done a lot of tweaking to hit the magic 120Hz.
> 
> This is the X-Star DP2710 for anyone curious.


Please reffer to the Overclocking segment in this post

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1100_100#post_19959799


----------



## Gilgam3sh

did the tape mod and panel play mod earlier today, screens looks MUCH BETTER NOW! very very little backlight bleeding but does not bother me like before and no panel play


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Oh, you scared me for a sec there!
> 
> So basically thicker is better?


I´m not an expert on the area, but from what I understand the thicker the better, so higher AWG is better. Although the cable I received isn´t that thick, but maybe its thicker on the inside or something.lol I dont know. Can´t test it out before I get my GFX card back anyway.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I´m not an expert on the area, but from what I understand the thicker the better, so higher AWG is better. Although the cable I received isn´t that thick, but maybe its thicker on the inside or something.lol I dont know. Can´t test it out before I get my GFX card back anyway.


Thicker is better, but lower awg means thicker, NOT higher.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> did the tape mod and panel play mod earlier today, screens looks MUCH BETTER NOW! very very little backlight bleeding but does not bother me like before and no panel play


So did I, I raised it a bit but sadly the left side is now a bit lower then the right. I guess I'll have to re-open it.
I put 4 layers of tape btw, but I think 5 layers would be more optimal.
@wntrsnowg and anybody who did lift their panels, how many layers did you put on yours?
Also, getting rid of backlight bleeding was a nice side effect so I'm glad I did open it. It's kinda dumbproof tbh.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I can't confirm this, and believe me I would be the first person to complain about AMD cards and drivers. I been having a terrible time with my tri fire 7970's this year, so I would be the first to admit and point my finger at AMD. But I can't say I see any evidence that its harder to hit 120hz on AMD. I'm using a 15ft Cable that I had laying around from monoprice and its hitting 120hz just fine I have not tried any other cables yet, also haven't tried going higher clocks yet.
> From reading the threads to me high end GPU's like 7970, 7950, 680, 670, Titan will have no problem with 120hz. Its not a AMD vs. Nvidia thing with this.


Correct. As I replied to this post in that thread. I have a GTX 480 I woulda tried but my 7950 hits 120Hz and probably beyond just fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> So did I, I raised it a bit but sadly the left side is now a bit lower then the right. I guess I'll have to re-open it.
> I put 4 layers of tape btw, but I think 5 layers would be more optimal.
> @wntrsnowg and anybody who did lift their panels, how many layers did you put on yours?
> Also, getting rid of backlight bleeding was a nice side effect so I'm glad I did open it. It's kinda dumbproof tbh.


So you are saying it's pretty easy? I think I am going to do this soon but still nervous. I am good with computers and the like but not as great "with my hands".


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So you are saying it's pretty easy? I think I am going to do this soon but still nervous. I am good with computers and the like but not as great "with my hands".


I started taking mine apart last night but hooked it back up with the front bezel removed when my company arrived. I'm going to get back to it right now. I'll PM you my number so I can assist if you like. The most important thing that I haven't seen mentioned yet is that you have to remove the 4 screws from the bottom before the front part will come loose.


----------



## Gilgam3sh

would be fun to know when your panels was made, according to AIDA64 my panel was made week 40 2011


----------



## DeadGivaway

Fixed mine. So much better. Here is an image I created and have been using to calibrate brightness. I added 4 lines of color 1 pixel high at the bottom corners to test if the monitor was sitting high enough to see all the pixels now. Hope it is useful to someone. (Click for full size)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I can't confirm this, and believe me I would be the first person to complain about AMD cards and drivers. I been having a terrible time with my tri fire 7970's this year, so I would be the first to admit and point my finger at AMD. But I can't say I see any evidence that its harder to hit 120hz on AMD. I'm using a 15ft Cable that I had laying around from monoprice and its hitting 120hz just fine I have not tried any other cables yet, also haven't tried going higher clocks yet.
> From reading the threads to me high end GPU's like 7970, 7950, 680, 670, Titan will have no problem with 120hz. Its not a AMD vs. Nvidia thing with this.


Yeah i was just thinking we could add a video card section to our members chart so we can have a baseline of what certain cards seem to get(higher end are obviously going to do pretty good). There may be some exceptions like this particular AMD card works great or stay away from this card since it sucks at this for some reasn

Might be helpful


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cool and thx...yeah do know about the screws and even just removing those can have an effect apparently. I have read a few different descriptions so far but am still not so clear on how to actually separate it properly on the sides but havent seen anyone say it was hard or whatevs so maybe I'm overthinking this.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Well I just did it and I'm still not clear exactly what the key was to it. I think once you get a loud snap and notice that it comes apart in that section quite a bit, that's when you know you've got it. Then just slide your tool along the groove and you should hear several more snaps as it keeps coming apart. I used a guitar pick instead of a screwdriver to leave less visible damage on the outside of the housing, but it still left lots of marks. And the pick is destroyed, lol.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Well I just did it and I'm still not clear exactly what the key was to it. I think once you get a loud snap and notice that it comes apart in that section quite a bit, that's when you know you've got it. Then just slide your tool along the groove and you should hear several more snaps as it keeps coming apart. I used a guitar pick instead of a screwdriver to leave less visible damage on the outside of the housing, but it still left lots of marks. And the pick is destroyed, lol.


Good idea with a guitar pick, gonna try it 2morrow. I'll have to raise it a bit more according to your test pic. : P
5 layers of tape seems to be decent enough though.
Btw, opening that thing is easy but it voids warranty. In my case sending it back would be too expensive though so i dont care.

edit: I can only see 2 lines of color, yellow and violet. Since the pic is 2560x1440 I assume the black line on the bottom should be visible. In my case its not so it appears im missing one pixel vertically.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

As for warranty and sending back most sellers apparently claim they will cover shipping back withing one year (and I guess back again to you?) but first they have to agree it's worthy and who knows what else could go wrong and I would like to avoid ever having to do so if possible.

Actually I got a good tool for this kind of thing; at least I think I still do. Long black plastic deal that ends in a wedge and was sold for opening older iPods without scratches.

So there's no bleed with the bezel off, right?


----------



## Gilgam3sh

I just took a picture when I used a black screensaver to see how the backlight bleed looks like after the tape mod, I used 2 layer tape (maybe should have used more) but do you think its ok or should I open it up again and put on some more tape??

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/59/20130519004351.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/20130519005120.jpg/


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Looks pretty good to me I doubt I would notice that much if at all during normal use (unlike mine at present...at least on one spot).


----------



## Cwinston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> I just took a picture when I used a black screensaver to see how the backlight bleed looks like after the tape mod, I used 2 layer tape (maybe should have used more) but do you think its ok or should I open it up again and put on some more tape??


If tape isn't doing the trick, it might be the case of something pressing on the panel. Try the screensaver again but with the front bezel off, and use your nails or something to lift the metal frame away from the panel. If the bleed goes away, you gotta find a way to loosen the metal clips clamping the frame to the panel.
On my own monitor, I had to bend the frame a bit on certain spots along with bending the metal clips so they aren't so tight. Anything to stop the frame from pressing down on the panel once its put back on.

In other news, my Second Qnix arrived. This one turned out much better than the first having no bleed, but I have to raise the panel a tiny bit. I couldn't beat the pixel gods though, finding 2 stuck/dead pixels again. This time they're light blue and can only be seen on black backgrounds. I tried those pixel fixing videos but no luck


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> edit: I can only see 2 lines of color, yellow and violet. Since the pic is 2560x1440 I assume the black line on the bottom should be visible. In my case its not so it appears im missing one pixel vertically.


I'm not home at the moment so I can't check, but I believe the bottom-most color is the magenta or violet as you call it. You can open it in paint or another program and zoom in really far to verify that I'm correct on that. Good luck.


----------



## Methadras

Okay so I promised to post a picture of my flashlight cone light bleed. Anyone have something like this and if you did, how did you get rid of it. Oh by the way. I wasn't able to overclock my monitors to 120 or 110. They are sitting at 100. Going to see how far I can push Hz by Hz.









Otherwise the bleed is very minimal everywhere else. However, the other monitor has a slight yellowish cast. Very minor. I wonder if I can fix that with a new color profile. Also, is it possible to push a separate color profile to individual monitors or is it global?


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> Okay so I promised to post a picture of my flashlight cone light bleed. Anyone have something like this and if you did, how did you get rid of it. Oh by the way. I wasn't able to overclock my monitors to 120 or 110. They are sitting at 100. Going to see how far I can push Hz by Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise the bleed is very minimal everywhere else. However, the other monitor has a slight yellowish cast. Very minor. I wonder if I can fix that with a new color profile. Also, is it possible to push a separate color profile to individual monitors or is it global?


You can push per monitor and you should be able to correct the tint with a calibration.


----------



## DeadGivaway

When I tried to run the Metro 2033 benchmark @ 120hz, the monitor was losing the signal or de-syncing or something that caused the screen to go black except for the stuck pixel. *I used EVGA Pixel Clock OC to set the highest pixel clock* that would still show up in custom resolutions as 120 and not 121Hz, and now it runs perfectly fine. This may also be related to the issue I was having before with rebooting. I won't be testing that theory for a while though, I have safe mode fatigue.

_This may also explain at least partially some of the variance that people are seeing_ between different cables, it is *possible your pixel clock was not high enough*. Something to try messing with I think for those who haven't been able to get as high a refresh as they'd like.

I hope that helps someone.


----------



## apav

Does anyone have a color profile for 110hz? The one in the OP for 110hz has a dead link. I would really appreciate it if someone has one for 110hz


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Does anyone have a color profile for 110hz? The one in the OP for 110hz has a dead link. I would really appreciate it if someone has one for 110hz


As per the OP, you can download calibration profiles from TFT Central::
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Calibrations posted *[CLICK] here at TFT Central* may be stock factory and/or personal calibrations for said monitors. *Personally, out of every calibration profile posted here, the Asus PB278Q V3.icc looked the best on my monitor, and is a favorite for others as well.*
> Name brand monitors that have the same PLS panel internally Go to tft central and download these:
> Asus PB278Q
> Samsung S27A850D
> Viewsonic VP2770-LED


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> When I tried to run the Metro 2033 benchmark @ 120hz, the monitor was losing the signal or de-syncing or something that caused the screen to go black except for the stuck pixel. *I used EVGA Pixel Clock OC to set the highest pixel clock* that would still show up in custom resolutions as 120 and not 121Hz, and now it runs perfectly fine. This may also be related to the issue I was having before with rebooting. I won't be testing that theory for a while though, I have safe mode fatigue.
> 
> _This may also explain at least partially some of the variance that people are seeing_ between different cables, it is *possible your pixel clock was not high enough*. Something to try messing with I think for those who haven't been able to get as high a refresh as they'd like.
> 
> I hope that helps someone.


indeed, it is.
Btw, why didnt you cover height in your test?


----------



## UNOE

Anyone have more detail on how to do a tape mod. Is it just taping the bezel/frame or does the tape need to overlap slightly onto the panel ?


----------



## Gilgam3sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Anyone have more detail on how to do a tape mod. Is it just taping the bezel/frame or does the tape need to overlap slightly onto the panel ?


I followed this

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Does anyone have a color profile for 110hz? The one in the OP for 110hz has a dead link. I would really appreciate it if someone has one for 110hz


Here you go, I've also uploaded the one for 60Hz








Both are at 180cd/m2, 6500K white point and 2.2 gamma. 110Hz is 17 clicks from min brightness, 60Hz is 16 clicks.

QNIX QX2710 110Hz.zip 10k .zip file


QNIX QX2710 60Hz.zip 10k .zip file


----------



## ssss69

Anyone knows a tutorial to force games to 120hz? They only work if I get rid of full window mode. V-sync also limitis to 60hz. I have a nvidia card

Many thanks

Enviado desde mi GT-N7000 usando Tapatalk 2


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssss69*
> 
> Anyone knows a tutorial to force games to 120hz? They only work if I get rid of full window mode. V-sync also limitis to 60hz. I have a nvidia card
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Enviado desde mi GT-N7000 usando Tapatalk 2


If your games are not showing 120hz as an option, use the Catleap 2B inf and install it. You have to use "update driver" on your monitor in Device Manager with the "have disk" button. You can download the Catleap 2B inf here: http://www.monitortests.com/catleap.zip . Installed correctly your monitor will show as "Catleap Extreme" in device manager. After installing this INF you can make custom resolutions inside the nVidia control panel for games to pick up.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

This is a DGM IPS review but the stand is the apparently the same (removal instructions with nice pics):

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dgm_ips-2701wph.htm


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> indeed, it is.
> Btw, why didnt you cover height in your test?


My panel was sitting too low, and that was what I was trying to correct. I doubt anyone's panel is sitting too high. Anyways it's easy if you want to open up paint, zoom in all the way, and then draw a few lines of the smallest size on the top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Anyone have more detail on how to do a tape mod. Is it just taping the bezel/frame or does the tape need to overlap slightly onto the panel ?


It depends if you mean to correct light bleed or panel play/position.

I might be wrong on this, but I think to correct BLB you tape over the seam of the two pieces of metal that make up the back side of the panel itself.
For panel play/position, you are taping the back of the housing where the metal shims sit to force the shims to sit more tightly/higher.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssss69*
> 
> Anyone knows a tutorial to force games to 120hz? They only work if I get rid of full window mode. V-sync also limitis to 60hz. I have a nvidia card


Download and run a program called Nvidia Inspector. Click the button for Driver Profile Settings on the line that says "Driver Version". Scroll all the way to the bottom of the window that comes up. about 6th from the last setting you should see "preferred refresh rate". Click the dropdown and select "highest available". Then the button in the top right "Apply Changes". Restart.


----------



## guitarwar241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> I might be wrong on this, but I think to correct BLB you tape over the seam of the two pieces of metal that make up the back side of the panel itself.
> For panel play/position, you are taping the back of the housing where the metal shims sit to force the shims to sit more tightly/higher.


Can anyone confirm where to place the tape and how much to use? I just wanna know exactly how to do this so I don't screw up haha. The pictures in the OP didn't really explain the process all that well.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ah this is the first I am hearing that you can use NV Inspector to enable games to use higher refresh. The other way is the Catleap2B INF file.


----------



## Hand_Grenade

Im new to monitor OCing, I was messing around with the nvidia control panel, but I have no idea what total pixels in the timing section are for. Can anyone tell me what it's for?


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> Im new to monitor OCing, I was messing around with the nvidia control panel, but I have no idea what total pixels in the timing section are for. Can anyone tell me what it's for?


set it to auto, just change Hz value and you're good to go.


----------



## Hand_Grenade

Tried auto already and I kept seeing blue lines when I played any game and the overclocker in me wants to tweak everything .


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> Tried auto already and I kept seeing blue lines when I played any game and the overclocker in me wants to tweak everything .


That probably means you can't hit 120Hz, try a lower value for the refresh rate first then work up.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> Tried auto already and I kept seeing blue lines when I played any game and the overclocker in me wants to tweak everything .


Lower total pixels reduces the DVI frequency bandwidth needed, try lowering it by 10-20 until you get a black screen, then leave it right before that. Reducing the bandwidth (mhz) can sometimes stabilize a refresh rate that is close to being workable







. It helped me a lot, to get 120hz stable that way. My OC looks like this for 120hz:










You can also try reducing sync width and front porch verticals to "2" each.


----------



## bhardy1185

Got my monitor to work!!! This thing is beautiful! After talking back and forth with the seller, he told me to disassemble the monitor and check all the connections, so I did. I will post some pictures below. I disconnected every cable I could find and reattached them and put everything back together. Knew I was in business when I plugged the power cable in and was greated with a blinking red LED on the front







First time that has been on. I did notice however that when I put the 4 screws back in and tightened them, the LED went away. After messing around with it, there seems to be some kind of short or connection issue in the middle of the monitor somewhere. I can press in around the "QNIX" logo and it will flicker on and off. Left the screws out and all is good. I will be doing bleed tests and pixel tests later and will more than likely be taking it apart again to put the electric tape around the metal casing. But I am a happy camper now! The guides posted on the first page are amazing. Got me through this whole thing with hardly any problems (Broke one of the small clips on a cable connector. No biggie).


----------



## 69cents

I pulled the trigger! Hulustar don't fail me now! Crossing my fingers that this works out as well as my Celeron 300a! That's for us old timers.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dir_d*
> 
> You can push per monitor and you should be able to correct the tint with a calibration.


Okay, i figured that out. Any ideas on the light bleed?


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> I followed this
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE


I gotta be honest with you and tell that the dudes voice in the video creeps me the **** out.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Does anyone have a color profile for 110hz? The one in the OP for 110hz has a dead link. I would really appreciate it if someone has one for 110hz


Sorry I have been at a music festival at my school, sungod at ucsd. I haven't been keeping up with this thread but I will be going through the OP right now to check for those dead links


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarwar241*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> I might be wrong on this, but I think to correct BLB you tape over the seam of the two pieces of metal that make up the back side of the panel itself.
> For panel play/position, you are taping the back of the housing where the metal shims sit to force the shims to sit more tightly/higher.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm where to place the tape and how much to use? I just wanna know exactly how to do this so I don't screw up haha. The pictures in the OP didn't really explain the process all that well.
Click to expand...

As far as using tape to fix panel play, look in the OP for an expandable section under "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" titled "wntrsnowg mod to solve Panel Play and an off-center screen"
I think that through the pictures I've posted and text written, the location and amount of tape are explained very clearly. (the tape locations are circled in red, and it is stated to use 3 pieces of tape per site). Let me know if there is still anything that is confusing


----------



## Vulpix

I made a profile using ColorMunki @ 120hz, how does one extract the profile to be shared? Colors are A LOT more accurate after the calibration process.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *69cents*
> 
> I pulled the trigger! Hulustar don't fail me now! Crossing my fingers that this works out as well as my Celeron 300a! That's for us old timers.


Haha, yeah







... here's hoping you hit the 450mhz mark







.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> I made a profile using ColorMunki @ 120hz, how does one extract the profile to be shared? Colors are A LOT more accurate after the calibration process.


C:\Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color is where they live

Yeah I made one with a ColorMunki too at 96Hz but it turned out too dark, at least once I had 'Use Windows display calibration' checked which you need for gamma adjustments per the profile. Do need to try again and play around some more; those units are supposed to be good for newer LED backlit LCDs like this as you can choose such (default is CCFL).

You should try the Asus one too from TFTCentral. Would be curious what you think.


----------



## Vulpix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> C:\Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color is where they live
> 
> Yeah I made one with a ColorMunki too at 96Hz but it turned out too dark, at least once I had 'Use Windows display calibration' checked which you need for gamma adjustments per the profile. Do need to try again and play around some more; those units are supposed to be good for newer LED backlit LCDs like this as you can choose such (default is CCFL).
> 
> You should try the Asus one too from TFTCentral. Would be curious what you think.


I haven't had a too dark issue so far.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> set it to auto, just change Hz value and you're good to go.


No, you won't be able to overclock that way.
See the lowest resolution that will work for you. Click here to see my current manual profile, it reaches 140 stable. It might vary on other displays though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*


Does everyone have that Sticker, seems to be the warranty seal.
I don't have that sticker on my X-Star. Infact, there was no way of telling if my monitor has never been opened.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vulpix*
> 
> I haven't had a too dark issue so far.


Well make sure you are doing this in Color Management or they are all too bright (gamma).
Quote:


> You will also need to enable the profiles gamma correction.
> 
> Go into the advanced tab. You need to select "use Windows display calibration" but it is greyed out initially.
> 
> Click "change system defaults" and a new window pops up which looks the same as the previous one
> 
> Click on "advanced" tab and you should be able to tick "use Windows display calibration" from there. You should see a change in the screens gamma as the corrections from the profile are loaded.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> No, you won't be able to overclock that way.
> See the lowest resolution that will work for you. Click here to see my current manual profile, it reaches 140 stable. It might vary on other displays though.
> Does everyone have that Sticker, seems to be the warranty seal.
> I don't have that sticker on my X-Star. Infact, there was no way of telling if my monitor has never been opened.


No no sticker. What is that pic of/from?


----------



## guitarwar241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> As far as using tape to fix panel play, look in the OP for an expandable section under "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" titled "wntrsnowg mod to solve Panel Play and an off-center screen"
> I think that through the pictures I've posted and text written, the location and amount of tape are explained very clearly. (the tape locations are circled in red, and it is stated to use 3 pieces of tape per site). Let me know if there is still anything that is confusing


Sorry, I was referring to the black light bleed in my post. I checked the "Tape mode to fix back light bleed" section, but he doesn't show where to put the tape. I'm not sure what he means by "LED array". Can you clarify that part for me?


----------



## OneGun

Ok guys i am stuck between buying a Asus PB278Q or a QNIX.I have TWO 7950 boost cards so i can run my games at over 100fps.So is it worth the risk to buy a QNIX perfect pixel monitor from hulustar and get the Square trade 3 year warranty?Or should i just get the ASUS?My problem is i only have 1 working arm so taking apart the monitor to fix it is no an option..I would rather pay more to not have to deal with any issues..Here is the monitor i was looking at.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-Monitor-/130868303187?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bd553

Total with the 3 year warranty is $438..What should i do?


----------



## un-nefer

For games, I'd say go for it









The image will be similar, thanks to the QNIX also using a Samsung PLS display, but you'll end up with a refresh rate that is higher and more suited to gaming (~120Hz with nvidia cards and ~100Hz with AMD cards, averaging comments made in this thread), as well as lower input lag as it doesn't have scalars or any of the dsp etc that the ASUS does.


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ok guys i am stuck between buying a Asus PB278Q or a QNIX.I have TWO 7950 boost cards so i can run my games at over 100fps.So is it worth the risk to buy a QNIX perfect pixel monitor from hulustar and get the Aquare trade 3 year warranty?Or should i just get the ASUS?My problem is i only have 1 working arm so taking apart the monitor to fix it is no an option..I would rather pay more to not have to deal with any issues..Here is the monitor i was looking at.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-Monitor-/130868303187?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bd553
> 
> Total with the 3 year warranty is $438..What should i do?


Well the normal X-Star and QNIX from hulustar are on special with only a 0-2 pixel defect. Thats dam close to pixel perfect for alot less. Plus since its cheaper the 3 yr square-trade warranty is only 49.99.
This makes the total for a qnix $367.

However I would just get the Asus because you never know what condition these monitors will arrive in. Since you aren't able to do things like fix back-light bleed or reconnect the internals unfortunately. Like you said, pay more to deal with less issues and the Asus will have no issues.


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Okay first things first, I got the monitor after 11 days of paying the seller, XXXXXXX.
and wasn't too pleased about the shipping time and packaging as no protection on the outside and not as advertised, not expedited intl shipping, economy intl shipping is what I got.

I was excited and had to pay $55 customs, asked the seller to mark lower he demanded he can't on Fedex, which was cheaper to send,on the customs invoice but could do so in ems and demanded $26 more. I though it wouldn't matter and went with full amount. and got hit with a larger customs.

I noticed the backlight bleed immediately when booting up and on the first inspection I didn't notice any dead or stuck pixels and I ran the pixel fixing test just for the kinks for about 5 mins on the online flash based website. http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html

And later after closer inspection I found 4 dead pixels, 1 each on right bottom and top, 2 more in the middle upper part of the screen and 1 minor sub pixel is bad and shows sometimes on white I repeat 1 sub pixel. so in all 5 pixels are bad or non performing. I was okay with that and since Hulustar and some other sellers agreed to replace I asked the seller, he said I can't help.
I showed him picturres in dropbox he said he can't open the links, pasted in imageshack still said he can't open the links asked for the youtube links,
asked me I should have bought pixel perfect.
meanwhile my Gfx card went down and with it the dispaly was useless, I somehow arranged the video links and from here he kept dodging the issue by asking me to buy a 2100 $ LG instead and asked me to send it back for a full refund, also offered me a 3% discount coupon for next purchase,( I wasn't interested as the first product itself is not up to the mark and why purchase more) I asked him to replace instead to which he said it would cost him and myself(he did mention the returns to be borne by buyer) more money.

I reasoned, I threatened to escalate and finally after all the time I asked for atleast a partial refund of the half of the customs charges incurred which I think was reasonable and he said he sold the item during a sale and the margin or profit was only $10.

I was frustrated and wanted to end it all and think I was fated to get a bad customer service and product and obliged for the $10 refund and he agreed and I gave him time from 16th or was it 14th of May and I got a prompt that If I recieved no refund in 3 days ie., till 19th to escalate the case.
I waited till 20th no response or a refund in my paypal. and I finally escalated the case.

I got a message a little while back from ebay customer resolution of a full refund and another from seller saying he tried several times to click on partial refund and recieved errors, and finally he issued a full refund by mistake( I highly doubt).

then I got a call from the seller in south korea, explaining the mishap I said for all the trouble I if I have to give him the payment back I get atleast $20 and he sent an invoice and then I realised that Initially I used a 10% discount coupon from ebay, and so a higher invoice was send from the seller. now I cancelled and emailed the seller and the seller says to either return the product or issue another payment through the paypal.

listed price=289.90$(free shipping), paid after 10% discount = 260.91$, fresh invoice after the full refund for item as non described from the Ebay customer resolution is full inclusive of shipping.
invoice after negotiation over phone 269.90$(20 instead of 10$). This was before I checked my emails and stuff.
Now the seller is also calling me every 2 mins and no response from the seller over the phone simply calls.
received around 30 calls.

http://imageshack.us/a/img18/4711/dsc02259j.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img211/8616/dsc02258v.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img534/1711/dsc02257wa.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img594/4823/dsc02256i.jpg








 "

Currently the case has been closed by Ebay resolution center.
Please help me what Do to and what is the ethical and moral thing to do here?


----------



## brightbus

Who is the seller?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Who is the seller?


Yes please tell.As i was thinking of buying a monitor tomorrow..


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> Okay first things first, I got the monitor after 11 days of paying the seller, XXXXXXX.
> and wasn't too pleased about the shipping time and packaging as no protection on the outside and not as advertised, not expedited intl shipping, economy intl shipping is what I got.
> 
> I was excited and had to pay $55 customs, asked the seller to mark lower he demanded he can't on Fedex, which was cheaper to send,on the customs invoice but could do so in ems and demanded $26 more. I though it wouldn't matter and went with full amount. and got hit with a larger customs.
> 
> I noticed the backlight bleed immediately when booting up and on the first inspection I didn't notice any dead or stuck pixels and I ran the pixel fixing test just for the kinks for about 5 mins on the online flash based website. http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html
> 
> And later after closer inspection I found 4 dead pixels, 1 each on right bottom and top, 2 more in the middle upper part of the screen and 1 minor sub pixel is bad and shows sometimes on white I repeat 1 sub pixel. so in all 5 pixels are bad or non performing. I was okay with that and since Hulustar and some other sellers agreed to replace I asked the seller, he said I can't help.
> I showed him picturres in dropbox he said he can't open the links, pasted in imageshack still said he can't open the links asked for the youtube links,
> asked me I should have bought pixel perfect.
> meanwhile my Gfx card went down and with it the dispaly was useless, I somehow arranged the video links and from here he kept dodging the issue by asking me to buy a 2100 $ LG instead and asked me to send it back for a full refund, also offered me a 3% discount coupon for next purchase,( I wasn't interested as the first product itself is not up to the mark and why purchase more) I asked him to replace instead to which he said it would cost him and myself(he did mention the returns to be borne by buyer) more money.
> 
> I reasoned, I threatened to escalate and finally after all the time I asked for atleast a partial refund of the half of the customs charges incurred which I think was reasonable and he said he sold the item during a sale and the margin or profit was only $10.
> 
> I was frustrated and wanted to end it all and think I was fated to get a bad customer service and product and obliged for the $10 refund and he agreed and I gave him time from 16th or was it 14th of May and I got a prompt that If I recieved no refund in 3 days ie., till 19th to escalate the case.
> I waited till 20th no response or a refund in my paypal. and I finally escalated the case.
> 
> I got a message a little while back from ebay customer resolution of a full refund and another from seller saying he tried several times to click on partial refund and recieved errors, and finally he issued a full refund by mistake( I highly doubt).
> 
> then I got a call from the seller in south korea, explaining the mishap I said for all the trouble I if I have to give him the payment back I get atleast $20 and he sent an invoice and then I realised that Initially I used a 10% discount coupon from ebay, and so a higher invoice was send from the seller. now I cancelled and emailed the seller and the seller says to either return the product or issue another payment through the paypal.
> 
> listed price=289.90$(free shipping), paid after 10% discount = 260.91$, fresh invoice after the full refund for item as non described from the Ebay customer resolution is full inclusive of shipping.
> invoice after negotiation over phone 269.90$(20 instead of 10$). This was before I checked my emails and stuff.
> Now the seller is also calling me every 2 mins and no response from the seller over the phone simply calls.
> received around 30 calls.
> 
> http://imageshack.us/a/img18/4711/dsc02259j.jpg
> http://imageshack.us/a/img211/8616/dsc02258v.jpg
> http://imageshack.us/a/img534/1711/dsc02257wa.jpg
> http://imageshack.us/a/img594/4823/dsc02256i.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
> 
> Currently the case has been closed by Ebay resolution center.
> Please help me what Do to and what is the ethical and moral thing to do here?


Please tell us the name of the seller so we can avoid the quack.


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Please tell us the name of the seller so we can avoid the quack.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Who is the seller?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Yes please tell.As i was thinking of buying a monitor tomorrow..


Yes is it alright to reveal the name of the seller. I have currently switched off my phone as I can't stand the blank calls, no response even though I hold it to my ear for several minutes only typing sounds and some vague Korean talk in the background which I can't make out, it was a lady who very politley spoke to me in the first instance. and I almost was about to give the money when she waited till i got on the PC and logged onto paypal, and she sent me an invoice of 269.90 initially.
Okay since everything is out I believe it is only prudent to name the seller but is naming and shaming a good thing??

let me know your ideas as I'm out of any at the moment


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Oh yes since the time I have cancelled the first invoice and informed the seller the reason for doing it so, I have received a fresh invoice of 267.90$. talk about persistence....... where was all this when I had a problem not 1 phone call and atleast 24 hours before each time I contact the seller, each time making a fresh excuse


----------



## OneGun

If it helps alot of people avoid this seller then heck yes you should tell us..


----------



## brightbus

Should be to let everyone know who to avoid. It was dreamseller wasnt it?


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> If it helps alot of people avoid this seller then heck yes you should tell us..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Should be to let everyone know who to avoid. It was dreamseller wasnt it?


Yes it is dream-seller.


----------



## OneGun

Well I will not be buying one from them. Thank you.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> Yes it is dream-seller.


Dont forget to leave a bad feedback on ebay. I would even use the term "QUACK" in capital letters.


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Oh yes I will. Also my faith in eBay has been restored.


----------



## Paps.pt

I ordered mine from Green-Sum and my monitor is at the moment retained at Portuguese Customs. They demand a European Union Certificate, along with the seller´s invoce. And While I feel it is not the seller´s fault my comunication with him has been less than fluid and I am not very happy with this seller. They only answer to part of my questions and I can see that each answer is made from a different person, which seems not to know what my first question was and they take a lot of time to answer back.
This seller also asked me extra 20 dollars for sending the package by EMS and offered to put a lower price on the package (200$, opposed to the 329$ I really paid). The problem is that I think he didnt put the invoice in the package so customs found it strange and decided to do an inpection and I cant get him to answer me if he really put the 200$ invoice with the package. Customs is asking for this certificate based on a European Directive that I read which says that the only thing Qnix has to do is put a "CE" Marking on the product or manual, something I already confirmed that he did with some friendly guys in this thread. I sent customs an email stating this and showing where they can see the CE marking but havent receive an answer yet but I am pretty pessimistic about this, I believe that customs will no release the package without the Certificate, Green-Sum dodges my request of asking the maker for this certificate, Qnix must not even have it, so they will end up keeping my package, supposedly destroying it, but I am almost sure customs employes will just keep it for themselfs


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I ordered mine from Green-Sum and my monitor is at the moment retained at Portuguese Customs. They demand a European Union Certificate, along with the seller´s invoce. And While I feel it is not the seller´s fault my comunication with him has been less than fluid and I am not very happy with this seller. They only answer to part of my questions and I can see that each answer is made from a different person, which seems not to know what my first question was and they take a lot of time to answer back.
> This seller also asked me extra 20 dollars for sending the package by EMS and offered to put a lower price on the package (200$, opposed to the 329$ I really paid). The problem is that I think he didnt put the invoice in the package so customs found it strange and decided to do an inpection and I cant get him to answer me if he really put the 200$ invoice with the package. Customs is asking for this certificate based on a European Directive that I read which says that the only thing Qnix has to do is put a "CE" Marking on the product or manual, something I already confirmed that he did with some friendly guys in this thread. I sent customs an email stating this and showing where they can see the CE marking but havent receive an answer yet but I am pretty pessimistic about this, I believe that customs will no release the package without the Certificate, Green-Sum dodges my request of asking the maker for this certificate, Qnix must not even have it, so they will end up keeping my package, supposedly destroying it, but I am almost sure customs employes will just keep it for themselfs


Urgghh... I can understand the agony, my seller also mentioned or assumed that the invoice for EMS is not required and therefore it can be either marked lower or something, but Fedex is strict about these things also it has a section for customs and therefore has speedy customs releases and also charges handling fees in addition to the general Customs duty. Also my seller mention if the consignment is lost in EMS then they will only reimburse the marked price so it is a risky matter, so I said to mark full price with Fedex.

Hope your consignment is released soon. here's some positive vibes from my end, good Luck.
Don't give up so easily.


----------



## TarAldarion

Anybody else come across this problem yet?

Problem is when I restart, the screen goes black. I have to change from 120->60 every time I turn on my computer, reboot and then change back to 120. Very annoying.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> Urgghh... I can understand the agony, my seller also mentioned or assumed that the invoice for EMS is not required and therefore it can be either marked lower or something, but Fedex is strict about these things also it has a section for customs and therefore has speedy customs releases and also charges handling fees in addition to the general Customs duty. Also my seller mention if the consignment is lost in EMS then they will only reimburse the marked price so it is a risky matter, so I said to mark full price with Fedex.
> 
> Hope your consignment is released soon. here's some positive vibes from my end, good Luck.
> Don't give up so easily.


Thanks, I really hope that as well.
I asked the seller to send by EMS because of those handling fees but if I knew what I know now I would let him send it by FedEx or DHL. I get the feeling customs wouldnt be so demanding with those companies, but now I will never know...to save a few bucks I now risk loosing everything


----------



## Coree

Got my Glossy QX2710. No dead pixels, some backlight bleed. Haven't tested how far this thing can OC. So far very happy.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well some dreams turn out to be nightmares. Yeah while this is the most specific and far worst "bad story" about him yet I already had the impression that dream-seller was iffy. Some people have gotten great ones from him but more than a few others not so much. One reason his prices lower I guess. Also with thousands of transactions there is a more significant diff between 98.x and 99.x% feedback. Hulustar is 99.5 last I checked and there is another seller I just heard of the other day allkillsale who has 100%. However he is newer with only 391 different users having given feedback whereas dream-seller is almost 8000.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> Anybody else come across this problem yet?
> 
> Problem is when I restart, the screen goes black. I have to change from 120->60 every time I turn on my computer, reboot and then change back to 120. Very annoying.


Hmm no though it can switch back to 60 even though it still may say 120 I have noticed. At least in games. Now I fire up the graphics stress test in CS Source w/ vsync occasionally to make sure it still caps at 120.

Sounds like a driver and/or CRU problem.


----------



## Coolio831

I ordered from dream-seller, I must of gotten lucky! Although he did send me a Matte monitor, cause the Glossy ones were sold out. I had agreed to the Matte.


----------



## OneGun

So who would you guys recommend buying one of these from? I was thing hulustar..


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> So who would you guys recommend buying one of these from? I was thing hulustar..


Most likely hulustar now. Something is whispering into my head to grab 2 more for surround, If I do they will come from hulustar.


----------



## brightbus

I ordered my second one from Hulustar after reading on here about sellers. Will come thisweek hopefully.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hmm just looked thru allkillsale's store and he has mostly Crossovers. One QNIX but it is about $100 more than you really need to spend, at least as it still appears to stand today.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pixel-Perfect-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-Monitor-2560x1440-Matt-/261212649639?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cd17cb8a7
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Most likely hulustar now. Something is whispering into my head to grab 2 more for surround, If I do they will come from hulustar.


You better pick up two more GPUs as well.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I ordered my second one from Hulustar after reading on here about sellers. Will come thisweek hopefully.


Congratz, Let us know how it turns out!


----------



## OneGun

How long does it usually take to ship to California? Does anyone know?And do I have to pay for customs?


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> How long does it usually take to ship to California? Does anyone know?And do I have to pay for customs?


2-3 days, Its pretty quick.


----------



## OneGun

Ok I am buying one tonight..I have been asking hulustar questions and they sure are hard to understand lol. I asked about return policy and the response was.. You like you keep you break you know return must like keep return policy... *** does that even mean lmao..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> How long does it usually take to ship to California? Does anyone know?And do I have to pay for customs?


No customs charge for USA


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ok I am buying one tonight..I have been asking hulustar questions and they sure are hard to understand lol. I asked about return policy and the response was.. You like you keep you break you know return must like keep return policy... *** does that even mean lmao..


If you like it, keep it. If you break it, you can't return it. That's what I got anyway.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> No, you won't be able to overclock that way.
> See the lowest resolution that will work for you. Click here to see my current manual profile, it reaches 140 stable. It might vary on other displays though.
> Does everyone have that Sticker, seems to be the warranty seal.
> I don't have that sticker on my X-Star. Infact, there was no way of telling if my monitor has never been opened.


I didn't have it on my two Qnix 27's.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarAldarion*
> 
> Anybody else come across this problem yet?
> 
> Problem is when I restart, the screen goes black. I have to change from 120->60 every time I turn on my computer, reboot and then change back to 120. Very annoying.


What are you using to set the frequency?


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well some dreams turn out to be nightmares. Yeah while this is the most specific and far worst "bad story" about him yet I already had the impression that dream-seller was iffy. Some people have gotten great ones from him but more than a few others not so much. One reason his prices lower I guess. Also with thousands of transactions there is a more significant diff between 98.x and 99.x% feedback. Hulustar is 99.5 last I checked and there is another seller I just heard of the other day allkillsale who has 100%. However he is newer with only 391 different users having given feedback whereas dream-seller is almost 8000.
> Hmm no though it can switch back to 60 even though it still may say 120 I have noticed. At least in games. Now I fire up the graphics stress test in CS Source w/ vsync occasionally to make sure it still caps at 120.
> 
> Sounds like a driver and/or CRU problem.


Excellentcastle is a great seller to. They have been very responsive to me.


----------



## faiyez

Weird, I just pulled the trigger on a Qnix matte from seller "items_dealer". It was a few dollars cheaper than hulustar BUT the item description page for this seller is the exact same as hulustar, up to the very same pictures and banners.

I take it these sellers kind of overlap?


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faiyez*
> 
> Weird, I just pulled the trigger on a Qnix matte from seller "items_dealer". It was a few dollars cheaper than hulustar BUT the item description page for this seller is the exact same as hulustar, up to the very same pictures and banners.
> 
> I take it these sellers kind of overlap?


I've wondered if all the sellers are actually one person. Was anyone elses monitor from a dealer other than dream-seller, see the monitor ship out of,: BUSAN 617826?


----------



## brightbus

Probably stock photos made by the actual manufacturer, which is why they're all the same. There could be a couple selling under more than one account, but I seriously doubt all the sellers are one person on ebay.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Congratz, Let us know how it turns out!


Thanks! I eventually plan to go tri-screen. Unfortunately the budget doesnt allow for a third one this month


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Thanks! I eventually plan to go tri-screen. Unfortunately the budget doesnt allow for a third one this month


I'm trying not to blow my budget but the 4gb 680's are looking better and better every time i get another beer, instead of 3 3gb 660 ti's


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> I've wondered if all the sellers are actually one person. Was anyone elses monitor from a dealer other than dream-seller, see the monitor ship out of,: BUSAN 617826?


My one from hulustar came from Seoul. I doubt they're the same person, I've emailed a few of the sellers and they gave different responses regarding customs declarations, overclockability, etc.

The monitors all use the same panel so maybe they just copied the pictures and specifications from there (or from each other).


----------



## AstralReaper

Mine finally shipped today. It was my own fault though. I bought it right before a holiday and the weekend. Anyways I can't wait and I I hope the AMD never settle bundle gets some new games soon. I need a 2nd 7950 to handle this resolution and I'm not buying another one in-till the bundle changes.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> My one from hulustar came from Seoul. I doubt they're the same person, I've emailed a few of the sellers and they gave different responses regarding customs declarations, overclockability, etc.
> 
> The monitors all use the same panel so maybe they just copied the pictures and specifications from there (or from each other).


I think they all get shipped from Seoul Incheon, It seems like its a 5 hour bus ride to Busan, where my monitor originated from.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> Okay first things first, I got the monitor after 11 days of paying the seller, XXXXXXX.
> and wasn't too pleased about the shipping time and packaging as no protection on the outside and not as advertised, not expedited intl shipping, economy intl shipping is what I got.
> 
> I was excited and had to pay $55 customs, asked the seller to mark lower he demanded he can't on Fedex, which was cheaper to send,on the customs invoice but could do so in ems and demanded $26 more. I though it wouldn't matter and went with full amount. and got hit with a larger customs.
> 
> I noticed the backlight bleed immediately when booting up and on the first inspection I didn't notice any dead or stuck pixels and I ran the pixel fixing test just for the kinks for about 5 mins on the online flash based website. http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html
> 
> And later after closer inspection I found 4 dead pixels, 1 each on right bottom and top, 2 more in the middle upper part of the screen and 1 minor sub pixel is bad and shows sometimes on white I repeat 1 sub pixel. so in all 5 pixels are bad or non performing. I was okay with that and since Hulustar and some other sellers agreed to replace I asked the seller, he said I can't help.
> I showed him picturres in dropbox he said he can't open the links, pasted in imageshack still said he can't open the links asked for the youtube links,
> asked me I should have bought pixel perfect.
> meanwhile my Gfx card went down and with it the dispaly was useless, I somehow arranged the video links and from here he kept dodging the issue by asking me to buy a 2100 $ LG instead and asked me to send it back for a full refund, also offered me a 3% discount coupon for next purchase,( I wasn't interested as the first product itself is not up to the mark and why purchase more) I asked him to replace instead to which he said it would cost him and myself(he did mention the returns to be borne by buyer) more money.
> 
> I reasoned, I threatened to escalate and finally after all the time I asked for atleast a partial refund of the half of the customs charges incurred which I think was reasonable and he said he sold the item during a sale and the margin or profit was only $10.
> 
> I was frustrated and wanted to end it all and think I was fated to get a bad customer service and product and obliged for the $10 refund and he agreed and I gave him time from 16th or was it 14th of May and I got a prompt that If I recieved no refund in 3 days ie., till 19th to escalate the case.
> I waited till 20th no response or a refund in my paypal. and I finally escalated the case.
> 
> I got a message a little while back from ebay customer resolution of a full refund and another from seller saying he tried several times to click on partial refund and recieved errors, and finally he issued a full refund by mistake( I highly doubt).
> 
> then I got a call from the seller in south korea, explaining the mishap I said for all the trouble I if I have to give him the payment back I get atleast $20 and he sent an invoice and then I realised that Initially I used a 10% discount coupon from ebay, and so a higher invoice was send from the seller. now I cancelled and emailed the seller and the seller says to either return the product or issue another payment through the paypal.
> 
> listed price=289.90$(free shipping), paid after 10% discount = 260.91$, fresh invoice after the full refund for item as non described from the Ebay customer resolution is full inclusive of shipping.
> invoice after negotiation over phone 269.90$(20 instead of 10$). This was before I checked my emails and stuff.
> Now the seller is also calling me every 2 mins and no response from the seller over the phone simply calls.
> received around 30 calls.
> 
> http://imageshack.us/a/img18/4711/dsc02259j.jpg
> http://imageshack.us/a/img211/8616/dsc02258v.jpg
> http://imageshack.us/a/img534/1711/dsc02257wa.jpg
> http://imageshack.us/a/img594/4823/dsc02256i.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
> 
> Currently the case has been closed by Ebay resolution center.
> Please help me what Do to and what is the ethical and moral thing to do here?


So im confused... you received a full refund, and still have the monitor?


----------



## cor35vet

Was in Japan for a week and now I have to read through more than 500 posts D:

Oh and if you could update the OP, all my color profiles are up at:
[preferred] http://woabou.eu/files/icc
and
http://botox.ath.cx/files/icc
Remember, 12 clicks up from lowest brightness and glossy panel is what these are made for.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> Was in Japan for a week and now I have to read through more than 500 posts D:
> 
> Oh and if you could update the OP, all my color profiles are up at:
> [preferred] http://woabou.eu/files/icc
> and
> http://botox.ath.cx/files/icc
> Remember, 12 clicks up from lowest brightness and glossy panel is what these are made for.


What Hz are they?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> Was in Japan for a week and now I have to read through more than 500 posts D:
> 
> Oh and if you could update the OP, all my color profiles are up at:
> [preferred] http://woabou.eu/files/icc
> and
> http://botox.ath.cx/files/icc
> Remember, 12 clicks up from lowest brightness and glossy panel is what these are made for.


Thanks. It was brought to my attention that the previous links of yours were down


----------



## wevsspot

Well, I've read through the first 25 pages looking for anyone running this with a GTX 570 card (or as in my situation twin GTX 570 cards). My eVGA cards have dual link DVI but I think they are DVI-I and not DVI-D.

So any others that bought this monitor running it using an eVGA GTX 570(s)?


----------



## Lazdaa

I'm probably gonna buy this one from green-sum tomorrow: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/111070644047?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19dc53874f

Unless you guys can recommend another seller, although i haven't really heard much bad about green-sum.

Hopefully it's gonna be a great birthday gift for myself lol.


----------



## OneGun

So I want the evolution 2 with only a Dvi input to be able to OC right?


----------



## OneGun

Double post.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> So I want the evolution 2 with only a Dvi input to be able to OC right?


Yes, you want the Evo II, As far as overclocking, it comes down to luck and the quality of the cable used to see how far you can push the oc without getting scan lines.


----------



## majnu

Just bought QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 Glossy from hulustar since he is recommended. Nice chap, he marked mine as gift with a $100 value as he said that is all he can do, so hopefully UK customs won't charge an arm and a leg with import taxes and handling, although hulustar sends it via DHL I believe,

Anyway hopefully mines a good one as I went for the 0-2 dead pixel one.

Which DVI-D cable are people using? for their overclocks?


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Just bought QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 Glossy from hulustar since he is recommended. Nice chap, he marked mine as gift with a $100 value as he said that is all he can do, so hopefully UK customs won't charge an arm and a leg with import taxes and handling, although hulustar sends it via DHL I believe,
> 
> Anyway hopefully mines a good one as I went for the 0-2 dead pixel one.
> 
> Which DVI-D cable are people using? for their overclocks?


Monoprice 24awg 6 ft dual link cable, Although some have reported the stock cable being just as good, twas not the case for me.


----------



## dir_d

I hit 110 with the stock cable, run 96 24/7.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> I'm trying not to blow my budget but the 4gb 680's are looking better and better every time i get another beer, instead of 3 3gb 660 ti's


I'm going to have to upgrade my video cards. Right now I'm running crossfired 7870's. Probably gonna wait until the 9000 series comes out, well see.


----------



## Coolio831

Just got a bill from FedEx







(was my face when I open'd up the mailbox and saw FedEx letter)







was my reaction when I saw Amound Due: $0.00







Althouth dream-seller did mark the package USD 332.00. Did I get away free, or was it the free trade thing with Korea.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Just got a bill from FedEx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (was my face when I open'd up the mailbox and saw FedEx letter)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was my reaction when I saw Amound Due: $0.00
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Althouth dream-seller did mark the package USD 332.00. Did I get away free, or was it the free trade thing with Korea.


The free thing with Korea. If you live in the US, no duties or customs are due.


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Just bought QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 Glossy from hulustar since he is recommended. Nice chap, he marked mine as gift with a $100 value as he said that is all he can do, so hopefully UK customs won't charge an arm and a leg with import taxes and handling, although hulustar sends it via DHL I believe,
> 
> Anyway hopefully mines a good one as I went for the 0-2 dead pixel one.
> 
> Which DVI-D cable are people using? for their overclocks?


You'll probably get a £20-30 bill. DHL are pretty good in that you won't have to deal with HMRC, you just get a notification from them, pay online then they will deliver as scheduled.

I don't think monoprice deliver to the UK, you can try Overlord or ebay but including delivery they are very expensive! I'd recommend trying the stock cable first.


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> So im confused... you received a full refund, and still have the monitor?


I guess so, for now I didn't want all this to happen, and the Ebay cusomer resolution escalation later after a few hours I got the full refund, and the seller turns around and makes excuses saying he issued it by mistake, should I believe it, and willingly agreed in a second to get the money back even with a $20 short when I asked for it, and goes to show he/she is lying and sends me an invoice of 20$ short of full refund, then when I explain it to him/her that I got a discount coupon initially they send a 2nd invoice of 267.90, all this when they never even budged when I asked for a $27 partail refund to begin with. Now you tell me all this trouble from the 27th of last month when I ordered and oayed for it on 16th of april.


----------



## majnu

£20-30 Yikes! That is as much as HMRC would have charged, which is 20% plus handling. Thanks for the links everyone. I've had good experience with the DeLock Premium range of cables with my current SA750D, although that is Display Port, I tried searching if DeLock did a Premium DVI-D which unfortunately they don't. I'll have a look at the other links posted.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Just got a bill from FedEx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (was my face when I open'd up the mailbox and saw FedEx letter)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was my reaction when I saw Amound Due: $0.00
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Althouth dream-seller did mark the package USD 332.00. Did I get away free, or was it the free trade thing with Korea.


Weird I didn't know you could be billed after delivery anyway. I'm in Cali to so I won't panic when I see a bill.

@OneGun - As far shipping time from the other question asked before. It took ta_planet one day to create a tracking number and drop the monitor about 22 hours after I ordered. Then from there it was only 36 hours until it was at my door in So. Cal - So 58 hours total. Route it took was Airport in Korea (forgot the name), Anchorage Alaska, Oakland, CA, Los Angeles, CA, Orange County, CA.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Weird I didn't know you could be billed after delivery anyway. I'm in Cali to so I won't panic when I see a bill.
> 
> @OneGun - As far shipping time from the other question asked before. It took ta_planet one day to create a tracking number and drop the monitor about 22 hours after I ordered. Then from there it was only 36 hours until it was at my door in So. Cal - So 58 hours total. Route it took was Airport in Korea (forgot the name), Anchorage Alaska, Oakland, CA, Los Angeles, CA, Orange County, CA.


sweet I am in the city of Orange..I think I am gonna order one tonight..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Just bought QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 Glossy from hulustar since he is recommended. Nice chap, he marked mine as gift with a $100 value as he said that is all he can do, so hopefully UK customs won't charge an arm and a leg with import taxes and handling, although hulustar sends it via DHL I believe,
> 
> Anyway hopefully mines a good one as I went for the 0-2 dead pixel one.
> 
> Which DVI-D cable are people using? for their overclocks?


I never used the pack in cable since its kind of short. This is what im using

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RM2/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was able to get 120hz no problem. 144 doesnt work, scan lines and screen jumps around with weird colors.


----------



## OneGun

So if I order a pixel perfect from hulustar then I shouldn't get one where the case isn't on right or the screen sags?At least I will have a better chance at getting a perfect one right?


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> So if I order a pixel perfect from hulustar then I shouldn't get one where the case isn't on right or the screen sags?At least I will have a better chance at getting a perfect one right?


I think the panel play could still be there irrespective of the pixel perfect or not. Not to mention the panel sitting too low or high.
I would get a Asus or another branded model which you mentioned earlier, or have someone in the family or a close friend help you in case you still would take the plunge, your call in the end.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> So if I order a pixel perfect from hulustar then I shouldn't get one where the case isn't on right or the screen sags?At least I will have a better chance at getting a perfect one right?


I still got a bit of panel play, I can only notice if I shake my screen like one of them sketch and shake to erase things. lol ( I can picture someone trying that) I ordered a pixel perfect from dream-seller.


----------



## brightbus

For those of you that ordered from hulustar or others without a tracking number, how long did it take from order to delivery, approximately?


----------



## killerfrenzi

anyone know if I should expect a tracking number
also if I should get squaretrade?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> anyone know if I should expect a tracking number
> also if I should get squaretrade?


I just emailed squaretrade asking about how they handle defective monitors and full refunds etc..I will let you know when i hear back on what they say..


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I just emailed squaretrade asking about how they handle defective monitors and full refunds etc..I will let you know when i hear back on what they say..


Thank you. I would like to know this as I am going to purchase the 3 yr on my X-Star.


----------



## Pure2sin

I have an X-Star Matte on the way and still have my Crossover 27QD. I will take some pictures side by side to compare the glossy and matte screens and some other aspects of the picture before I return the Crossover.


----------



## UNOE

So guys just want to let everyone know a big drawback to this monitor for AMD owners. If you want to watch bluray with powerdvd or netflix app. Or any other program that checks to see if the drivers are signed then it will not work with anything higher than 60hz with the unsigned driver. Nvidia seems to have official tools and support for 1440p @ 120hz. So like usual AMD is behind in driver support. I reported the issue *here* and if anyone else would like to see this you might as well let them know too.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> So guys just want to let everyone know a big drawback to this monitor for AMD owners. If you want to watch bluray with powerdvd or netflix app. Or any other program that checks to see if the drivers are signed then it will not work with anything higher than 60hz with the unsigned driver. Nvidia seems to have official tools and support for 1440p @ 120hz. So like usual AMD is behind in driver support. I reported the issue *here* and if anyone else would like to see this you might as well let them know too.


does this help with video playback issues..
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> So guys just want to let everyone know a big drawback to this monitor for AMD owners. If you want to watch bluray with powerdvd or netflix app. Or any other program that checks to see if the drivers are signed then it will not work with anything higher than 60hz with the unsigned driver. Nvidia seems to have official tools and support for 1440p @ 120hz. So like usual AMD is behind in driver support. I reported the issue *here* and if anyone else would like to see this you might as well let them know too.


I don't watch blu-rays or dvds on my computer. However I have no problem using netflix. And I run amd ( two 7870's to be exact) And I'm running at 120 hz using the cru method.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> anyone know if I should expect a tracking number
> also if I should get squaretrade?


I guess it depends on the seller? On hulustars listing it says you dont get a tracking number unless you pay for one (around 3 dollars I thing.) Seems like the general consensus about squaretrade is they just reimburse not replace the monitor.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I don't watch blu-rays or dvds on my computer. However I have no problem using netflix. And I run amd ( two 7870's to be exact) And I'm running at 120 hz using the cru method.
> I guess it depends on the seller? On hulustars listing it says you dont get a tracking number unless you pay for one (around 3 dollars I thing.) Seems like the general consensus about squaretrade is they just reimburse not replace the monitor.


If it doesn't effect you then that good. Just posting so people are aware before they order. This issue is pretty much more for windows 8. In windows 8 the AMD driver goes to a black screen when I watch netflix on firefox or IE. Chrome tells me to download the app. Before I got this screen the only option that worked for me with my AMD drivers and windows 8 was the netflix app and a tweak that puts it into windowed mode, which now I can't even use that until I restore backup with CRU then reboot with standard signed driver.
I put most the blame on Microsoft on this one, I can't believe they got Chrome to force me to use netflix app. (vexed)

But with that said it can't hurt to ask AMD to release a signed driver with unlocked pixel clock. Or a official tool to do so, does it ? So anyone that would like to see this, please let AMD know. Personally even if it was nvidia cards and a issue that wouldn't effect me directly I would still be willing to let my voice be heard to ask nvidia to add something like this. These companies need customers to voice there opinions to see advancements in functionality.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> does this help with video playback issues..
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


This is what breaks it. But its required for anything over 60hz as of now for AMD cards.


----------



## OneGun

Really cause I did not know I need that to OC my monitors I need to install that before I use CRU and try and OC my monitor?Could that be the reason my monoprice skips frames at 75hz?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Really cause I did not know I need that to OC my monitors I need to install that before I use CRU and try and OC my monitor?Could that be the reason my monoprice skips frames at 75hz?


Yes, you need to install that. Frame skipping is likely because of crossfire frame latency though and higher throughput exaggerating frame latency.

I was not aware that monoprice monitors could hit 75hz, not bad.

You also need to boot with test mode for windows 8 I'm not sure if you need test mode for windows 7.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> anyone know if I should expect a tracking number
> also if I should get squaretrade?


what seller? some sellers say on the listing they dont do a tracking number unless its asked.


----------



## Pure2sin

I have been looking for a stand for my monitor:

I know that you can buy the pivot Crossover stand from BigClothCraft directly off Ebay:

Like this for $89.99

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140795611232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648



I also found this stand which I found to be interesting. I cannot find it in the US for sale but it seems like it would be a cheaper alternative to the stand above.

I know some of the specs say it will work up to a 23-24" monitor but I have also seen where it will work on 27" monitors.

Around $53-55 USD

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AOC-HA22-VESA-Monitor-Stand-Height-Adjustment-4-Way-Adjustable-Pivot-Swivel-Tilt-/290667162140



I have an e-mail into AOC to see if they could help with a re-seller of these stands in the US. I am not too optimistic but maybe someone can find some and let me know.


----------



## crimelol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I have been looking for a stand for my monitor:
> 
> I know that you can buy the pivot Crossover stand from BigClothCraft directly off Ebay:
> 
> Like this for $89.99
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140795611232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648
> 
> 
> 
> I also found this stand which I found to be interesting. I cannot find it in the US for sale but it seems like it would be a cheaper alternative to the stand above.
> 
> I know some of the specs say it will work up to a 23-24" monitor but I have also seen where it will work on 27" monitors.
> 
> Around $53-55 USD
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AOC-HA22-VESA-Monitor-Stand-Height-Adjustment-4-Way-Adjustable-Pivot-Swivel-Tilt-/290667162140
> 
> 
> 
> I have an e-mail into AOC to see if they could help with a re-seller of these stands in the US. I am not too optimistic but maybe someone can find some and let me know.


I've heard good things about the Monoprice stand: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105970-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369109337&sr=8-2&keywords=monoprice+stand


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimelol*
> 
> I've heard good things about the Monoprice stand: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105970-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369109337&sr=8-2&keywords=monoprice+stand


I have that monitor stand. Can make any adjustment, simple, very sturdy and looks just fine with the black coating.

Edit: Yeah you can get this stand for 20 bucks directly from monoprice. Not sure how they are justifying 200% upsale.


----------



## AstralReaper

Has anyone swapped these screens into a different monitor case? Is it even possible?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> Has anyone swapped these screens into a different monitor case? Is it even possible?


Hmm should be as long as the dimensions are correct. There are other models that use the exact same screen.


----------



## OneGun

I think i am going to order this one.Does anyone have any better suggestions before i order it?Also this is the right one to OC right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-Monitor-/130868303187?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bd553


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> So im confused... you received a full refund, and still have the monitor?
> 
> 
> 
> I guess so, for now I didn't want all this to happen, and the Ebay cusomer resolution escalation later after a few hours I got the full refund, and the seller turns around and makes excuses saying he issued it by mistake, should I believe it, and willingly agreed in a second to get the money back even with a $20 short when I asked for it, and goes to show he/she is lying and sends me an invoice of 20$ short of full refund, then when I explain it to him/her that I got a discount coupon initially they send a 2nd invoice of 267.90, all this when they never even budged when I asked for a $27 partail refund to begin with. Now you tell me all this trouble from the 27th of last month when I ordered and oayed for it on 16th of april.
Click to expand...

Don't ever pay it back, you'll get screwed. And if it makes you feel any better about yourself for doing so, I believe that they are making huge profit margins... why else would so many people be selling these knock-offs out of south Korea worldwide?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I think i am going to order this one.Does anyone have any better suggestions before i order it?Also this is the right one to OC right?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-Monitor-/130868303187?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bd553


"pixel perfect" is believed to just be a scam for them to make more money, but send the same monitor as every other listing. I think some sellers were selling the qnix in the low $300 for a 0-2 defective pixel


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> Has anyone swapped these screens into a different monitor case? Is it even possible?


I was thinking about that too... like persay, a dell monitor case. but how would one aquire just a monitor casing and stand for cheap enough?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> "pixel perfect" is believed to just be a scam for them to make more money, but send the same monitor as every other listing. I think some sellers were selling the qnix in the low $300 for a 0-2 defective pixel


Hulustar has the limited promotion of 0-2 dead pixel monitor for $316.But i was hoping if i buy the pixel perfect monitor they will check for bad backlight bleed..As there is no way i can repair it with 1 arm..
So you think i should just get the one for $316 then?


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Don't ever pay it back, you'll get screwed. And if it makes you feel any better about yourself for doing so, I believe that they are making huge profit margins... why else would so many people be selling these knock-offs out of south Korea worldwide?


I was initially feeling guilty if I was doing it wrong, that is the reason why I posted here, I didn't post earlier coz I was hoping of some kind of outcome since some of the better sellers obliged happily to replace for some other customers, here if I'm not mistaken as I have gone through every page of the two threads started on these things.

All I ever wanted was either a replacement or a simple partial refund either half the customs borne by me ie., $27 and after that I wanted it to be over with I agreed his/her hinting on 3 separate occassions that he only earned $10 out of it, so even agreed to this, I was trying to work with them not the other way around, and finally after the stipulated period of 3 days to get the partial refund on the Ebayer's customer resolution center, I escalated the acse and boom I get a full refund.

I'm glad you see my point here and that I'm not doing anything wrong, also my Credit card cycle is due to finish in about 5 days, and can't even issue a payment if I wanted to pay as I don't have any funds right now and the refund is yet to show up in the original card. I wanted to explain these things to the seller but he is only communicating through phone, (or is he) not even on ebay's email system.

Today I got called 100, and then 221 and then 48 Missed calls on my phone, and yes there is no use even if i take the call, there is no response.
I now know how the collection calls feel like to poor banking customers.


----------



## OneGun

What about getting a X-star perfect pixel matte screen for $326?


----------



## OneGun

Well i got a Qnix none pixel perfect but guaranteed to have less then 2 dead pixels..I will update when it gets here..


----------



## UNOE

People don't like hearing the truth but if you really want the know the ethical thing is to pay what you think its worth. People have no gauge as to what is right verses wrong. This is why the world is the way it is. Sounds like the seller doesn't care to much to help you out. Now the ball is in your court. I don't know how bad the screen is but 4 or more pixels should be replaced.

Personally if I had the option. I would try to make a honest evaluation of what its worth or get a third party involved (not ebay or paypal they know nothing) and pay it. But if you want a free defective monitor its your choice.

I have to make judgment calls like this all the time. I have found it does pay off in the long run. I believe I receive greater opportunities and have more things intrusted to me over time from doing things honestly. Its a skill just like any other that has to be practiced to get good at it. However the cooperate world and world in general today will tell you take as much as you can and if you have to lie or cheat or steal in the process then do what you have to do.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> "pixel perfect" is believed to just be a scam for them to make more money, but send the same monitor as every other listing. I think some sellers were selling the qnix in the low $300 for a 0-2 defective pixel


It's not a scam. You are basically paying for a better return policy. Most of the monitors are coming without any bad pixels but 0-2 is acceptable on the non perfect pixel monitors. So basically you are buying the ability to return the monitor for any bad pixels. The response I got from GreenSum was that if the monitor I bought "perfect pixel" has any bad pixels they will pay for me to ship it back to them.

Back light bleed is another issue. But again GreenSum said if the back light bleed is bad I can return it at no cost to me.


----------



## saudagarkhalid

http://awesomescreenshot.com/0601aqzvba


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> what seller? some sellers say on the listing they dont do a tracking number unless its asked.


lol as I read this comment, my ebay got updated with a tracking number. I ordered with hulustar if anyone was wondering.


----------



## saudagarkhalid

http://awesomescreenshot.com/00f1ar0zad


----------



## saudagarkhalid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> People don't like hearing the truth but if you really want the know the ethical thing is to pay what you think its worth. People have no gauge as to what is right verses wrong. This is why the world is the way it is. Sounds like the seller doesn't care to much to help you out. Now the ball is in your court. I don't know how bad the screen is but 4 or more pixels should be replaced.
> 
> Personally if I had the option. I would try to make a honest evaluation of what its worth or get a third party involved (not ebay or paypal they know nothing) and pay it. But if you want a free defective monitor its your choice.
> 
> I have to make judgment calls like this all the time. I have found it does pay off in the long run. I believe I receive greater opportunities and have more things intrusted to me over time from doing things honestly. Its a skill just like any other that has to be practiced to get good at it. However the cooperate world and world in general today will tell you take as much as you can and if you have to lie or cheat or steal in the process then do what you have to do.


Man you really got me thinking again, i'll take a call, I have an exam in 2 days from now and really I'm not in the frame of mind to continue dealing with this @#$^
I will try to get in a independent evaluator or something to fix this. But you can say I'm not very pleased with the seller, he appears to have refunded from the perspective of Ebay and again trying to charge me for the same(outside of Ebay). Tthese are deceptive practices nonetheless, *Sigh* I have spent too much time and energy in this day in & day out.

I'll see you guys in a few days. Peace.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> lol as I read this comment, my ebay got updated with a tracking number. I ordered with hulustar if anyone was wondering.


So hulustar gives you a tracking number if you don't ask?Cause i did not ask for one..


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> Man you really got me thinking again, i'll take a call, I have an exam in 2 days from now and really I'm not in the frame of mind to continue dealing with this @#$^
> I will try to get in a independent evaluator or something to fix this. But you can say I'm not very pleased with the seller, he appears to have refunded from the perspective of Ebay and again trying to charge me for the same(outside of Ebay). Tthese are deceptive practices nonetheless, *Sigh* I have spent too much time and energy in this day in & day out.
> 
> I'll see you guys in a few days. Peace.


It is simple the way i see it..If he wants his monitor back he can pay for shipping.Have him send you a prepaid label and send it back to him since he gave you your money back..


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> It is simple the way i see it..If he wants his monitor back he can pay for shipping.Have him send you a prepaid label and send it back to him since he gave you your money back..


That sounds like a good solution to me. Then you have proof too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> Man you really got me thinking again, i'll take a call, I have an exam in 2 days from now and really I'm not in the frame of mind to continue dealing with this @#$^
> I will try to get in a independent evaluator or something to fix this. But you can say I'm not very pleased with the seller, he appears to have refunded from the perspective of Ebay and again trying to charge me for the same(outside of Ebay). Tthese are deceptive practices nonetheless, *Sigh* I have spent too much time and energy in this day in & day out.
> 
> I'll see you guys in a few days. Peace.


I would never send money outside of ebay unless there was good accountability with the method so you can prove you did so (its also hard to trust people now a days), just to clarify I wouldn't pay through some unagreed method, I think if he doesn't want to talk through ebay that is a red flag.


----------



## damianzmd

Has anyone wall mounted their monitor? If so, pics?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> lol as I read this comment, my ebay got updated with a tracking number. I ordered with hulustar if anyone was wondering.


I too got a tracking number. It's also shipping dhl (which I had huge issues with last time, but hopefully not this time). If it's similar shipping to last time, should be here by friday.

Also pretty prompt respose from Hulustar when I asked about shipping yesterday.

 But its already been shipped lol.


----------



## gilljoy

Really tempted to get one of these as an upgrade form my DELL u2311h.

Anyone have any recommended sellers that deliver to the UK?


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> Really tempted to get one of these as an upgrade form my DELL u2311h.
> 
> Anyone have any recommended sellers that deliver to the UK?


Well I got mine from hulustar, shipping took 4 days and the listing was in GBP (so no FX fees):
27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 ll 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor Matte Screen
Just remember to ask him to put a lower value for customs unless you want to get hit with a large bill.

It's definitely worth going for, your current Dell will seem tiny and the AG fuzzy in comparison.


----------



## Coree

Found out i have 1 dead pixel at the right bottom corner. It can only be seen in black environments, but only if you look very close to it.


----------



## gilljoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> Well I got mine from hulustar, shipping took 4 days and the listing was in GBP (so no FX fees):
> 27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 ll 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor Matte Screen
> Just remember to ask him to put a lower value for customs unless you want to get hit with a large bill.
> 
> It's definitely worth going for, your current Dell will seem tiny and the AG fuzzy in comparison.


Thanks very much









any difference between the one you listed and this one?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-Matte-Screen-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140962582455?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d2064fb7

Think I may go for the glossy finish over matte though


----------



## faiyez

Matte panel is actually semi-gloss.

Glossy might be an issue if it's put next to a window.


----------



## Paps.pt

Guys, just a heads up: I was finally able to speak with someone from Portuguese Customs and convinced him to release the package...








Here´s to hoping the package gets here allright, now, the fees are not astronomic and that the monitor works ok.

Thank you all for your help, really!
















CHEERS


----------



## gilljoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faiyez*
> 
> Matte panel is actually semi-gloss.
> 
> Glossy might be an issue if it's put next to a window.


I sit facing a window so that shouldn't be an issue hopefully


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I was thinking about that too... like persay, a dell monitor case. but how would one aquire just a monitor casing and stand for cheap enough?


I found some broken ones on ebay but they are still expensive. This one seems like a good candidate though. I don't have the money to buy a broken one however so maybe I will find one locally.


----------



## AirWick

Ordered a glossy from hulustar, hope I get it by Friday.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well three weeks ago you likely would have; I think he is a bit overloaded now. Still could happen though.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well three weeks ago you likely would have; I think he is a bit overloaded now. Still could happen though.


Sorry, who are you speaking to?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

The guy above me who hopes he gets his by the end of the week. If I don't quote then it's a response to the last post before mine (though I still could use a ^ to clarify I guess). If another one slips through while I am typing I will go back and edit with quote.

And yay re. your display, by the way. After all that customs delay and stress I hope you get a good one!


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> The guy above me who hopes he gets his by the end of the week. If I don't quote then it's a response to the last post before mine (though I still could use a ^ to clarify I guess). If another one slips through while I am typing I will go back and edit with quote.
> 
> And yay re. your display, by the way. After all that customs delay and stress I hope you get a good one!


Ah, ok








Thanks M8, I appreciate the help you have given me


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Go download what you need now if you haven't already. Test mode thing and driver patch plus even though you don't need it with NV I would just use CRU for higher Hz. More fine-tuning ability plus don't have to do anything else for games to use the higher refresh.


----------



## Lazdaa

Ey Guys!
I could need some suggestions about where i should be the monitor.

I've been looking at the X-Star from Green-sum: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/111070644047?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19dc53874f

But i've heard good from Hulustar and they (as far as i know) still got their 0-2 pixel thing on this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-2-Defect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-27-LED-Matte-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-2560x1440-/130892638671?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1e79cf29cf
But Hulustar got an extra 40$ for shipping...

Cheers!


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> Thanks very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any difference between the one you listed and this one?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-Matte-Screen-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140962582455?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d2064fb7
> 
> Think I may go for the glossy finish over matte though


Yeah that one does not have free shipping and is listed in USD so will probably end up costing you more.

Considering you currently have quite a heavily matte monitor at the moment I wouldn't recommend the glossy unless you've had one before. The matte coating on these monitors is very light as everyone has pointed out.


----------



## crimelol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saudagarkhalid*
> 
> I was initially feeling guilty if I was doing it wrong, that is the reason why I posted here, I didn't post earlier coz I was hoping of some kind of outcome since some of the better sellers obliged happily to replace for some other customers, here if I'm not mistaken as I have gone through every page of the two threads started on these things.
> 
> All I ever wanted was either a replacement or a simple partial refund either half the customs borne by me ie., $27 and after that I wanted it to be over with I agreed his/her hinting on 3 separate occassions that he only earned $10 out of it, so even agreed to this, I was trying to work with them not the other way around, and finally after the stipulated period of 3 days to get the partial refund on the Ebayer's customer resolution center, I escalated the acse and boom I get a full refund.
> 
> I'm glad you see my point here and that I'm not doing anything wrong, also my Credit card cycle is due to finish in about 5 days, and can't even issue a payment if I wanted to pay as I don't have any funds right now and the refund is yet to show up in the original card. I wanted to explain these things to the seller but he is only communicating through phone, (or is he) not even on ebay's email system.
> 
> Today I got called 100, and then 221 and then 48 Missed calls on my phone, and yes there is no use even if i take the call, there is no response.
> I now know how the collection calls feel like to poor banking customers.


I don't know why you think you deserve a replacement when the ad states it can have up to 5 dead pixels and that's what you got? If you are not happy with the monitor, you pay the return shipping.

You're the reason prices are high. ***** and moan if you don't get a perfect monitor when they aren't described as being perfect.


----------



## killerfrenzi

so I'm looking to get a new gpu to replace my gtx 460 768mb for it's lack of 1440p performance. any recommendations on how I should approach this? I was looking at a 3gb 7950 and a 2gb gtx 670, but I feel like the 7950 will work better at 1440p due to the extra vram.

Also, does anyone know if there's a difference if I use amd or nvidia for ocing the monitor or etc?

EDIT: I mainly play league, and looking at DX9 benchmarks, it seems like the 670 would work better in this case, 7950 for anything DX10


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimelol*
> 
> I don't know why you think you deserve a replacement when the ad states it can have up to 5 dead pixels and that's what you got? If you are not happy with the monitor, you pay the return shipping.
> 
> You're the reason prices are high. ***** and moan if you don't get a perfect monitor when they aren't described as being perfect.


Why are you flaming this guy?. Even it not perfect, monitor should at least have some standard. His monitor looks really bad to me.


----------



## brightbus

Also second monitor has cleared customs


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Also second monitor has cleared customs


I think my monitor is sitting with yours right now. different locations though, separation soon


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> so I'm looking to get a new gpu to replace my gtx 460 768mb for it's lack of 1440p performance. any recommendations on how I should approach this? I was looking at a 3gb 7950 and a 2gb gtx 670, but I feel like the 7950 will work better at 1440p due to the extra vram.
> 
> Also, does anyone know if there's a difference if I use amd or nvidia for ocing the monitor or etc?
> 
> EDIT: I mainly play league, and looking at DX9 benchmarks, it seems like the 670 would work better in this case, 7950 for anything DX10


Go with nvidia with this monitor until AMD releases a signed driver unlocked pixel clock.

There is no difference OC the monitor between brands. Its about having a card that can push more performance. I have 120hz working with a 15ft DVI Dual Link cable with 7970 I can get post at 140hz with the 15ft cable but has lines, 129hz seems stable too. But I just ordered a 10ft cable so maybe I can get it up to 130hz-140hz stable.

But I would still get Nvidia if you cant wait till 780 (start saving). I think you will be pretty happy with it.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> I think my monitor is sitting with yours right now. different locations though, separation soon


Haha yeah, is it in Cincinnati? I know thats where DHL's international hub is. From my last order, it took 2 days to be delivered once it cleared customs. (well actually took more than that, should have been 2, but had issues with dhl/seller)


----------



## brightbus

Im running dual 7870's. I want to get a new card as well eventually. Im an amd fanboy though







. MIght wait on that 9000 series.


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Go with nvidia with this monitor until AMD releases a signed driver unlocked pixel clock.
> 
> There is no difference OC the monitor between brands. Its about having a card that can push more performance. I have 120hz working with a 15ft DVI Dual Link cable with 7970 I can get post at 140hz with the 15ft cable but has lines, 129hz seems stable too. But I just ordered a 10ft cable so maybe I can get it up to 130hz-140hz stable.
> 
> But I would still get Nvidia if you cant wait till 780 (start saving). I think you will be pretty happy with it.


is it just easier to work with the nvidia oc software?
from the looks of it, I might get a decent deal on a card from people I sorta know. but the main worry for me is vram usage, and idk how much vram would start to be overkill.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Haha yeah, is it in Cincinnati? I know thats where DHL's international hub is. From my last order, it took 2 days to be delivered once it cleared customs. (well actually took more than that, should have been 2, but had issues with dhl/seller)


yeah it is, then I'll be looking out the window (campus mail email actually) for my monitor on thursday!


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crimelol*
> 
> You're the reason prices are high. ***** and moan if you don't get a perfect monitor when they aren't described as being perfect.


That makes no sense at all, price is rising because of demand.
One thing is small light bleeding, another is the monitor he got.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> is it just easier to work with the nvidia oc software?
> from the looks of it, I might get a decent deal on a card from people I sorta know. but the main worry for me is vram usage, and idk how much vram would start to be overkill.
> yeah it is, then I'll be looking out the window (campus mail email actually) for my monitor on thursday!


With anything get the most you can afford







Nothing wrong with getting a card with 3 or 4 gigs if you can afford it.

and the amd oc was easy. it's just you have to patch it unfortunately. I might get dual 7970's a 7990 or wait out for amd's 9000 series.


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> With anything get the most you can afford
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing wrong with getting a card with 3 or 4 gigs if you can afford it.
> 
> and the amd oc was easy. it's just you have to patch it unfortunately. I might get dual 7970's a 7990 or wait out for amd's 9000 series.


I mean if I get the most I can afford, I can get a titan or 7990 but that'd be an absurd purchase for me. but yeah, 3/4gb can do nothing but help me with large res. just finding the balance between vram, gpu, and price is hard.
then again, I only play SC2 and LoL, my demands are dumb. future-proofing's cool though


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> I mean if I get the most I can afford, I can get a titan or 7990 but that'd be an absurd purchase for me. but yeah, 3/4gb can do nothing but help me with large res. just finding the balance between vram, gpu, and price is hard


see toms hardware article regarding the CPU needed for one 1440p monitor. 2gb is enough, it seems

Edit: it's from Anandtech

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6934/choosing-a-gaming-cpu-single-multigpu-at-1440p


----------



## wrigleyvillain

This is better (though I havent read Tom's article and they may come to similar conclusion(s)). Anandtech generally one of the best authorities and this article is another example of why.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6934/choosing-a-gaming-cpu-single-multigpu-at-1440p
Quote:


> The most important point to note is how this set of results came to pass. Several months ago I came across a few sets of testing by other review websites that floored me - simple CPU comparison tests for gaming which were spreading like wildfire among the forums, and some results contradicted the general prevailing opinion on the topic. These results were pulling all sorts of lurking forum users out of the woodwork to have an opinion, and being the well-adjusted scientist I am, I set forth to confirm the results were, at least in part, valid.


----------



## brightbus

Yup, doing some internet research seems 2gb should be fine for single monitor.


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> This is better (though I havent read Tom's article and they may come to similar conclusion(s)). Anandtech generally one of the best authorities and this article is another example of why.
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/6934/choosing-a-gaming-cpu-single-multigpu-at-1440p


yeah I was looking through it. for what it's worth, my i3 2100 seems to do alright even in comparison with i5s (except in the case of SC2). the article doesn't really touch on gpus other than 7970 and 680


----------



## AstralReaper

Got mine today guys. i am very impressed. Zero dead pixels, little to no backlight bleed. 110hz on the included cable. 120hz has some lines. Will post pics soon but first im testing css on it. Also I am using the Asus PB278Q color profile.










I have zero complaints. In regards to the screen. However the brightness button to increase brightness is very bad. I have to force it in where it then maxes brightness then pull it out again. Im not going to use it much but still...owell. At least the screen is amazing.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> yeah I was looking through it. for what it's worth, my i3 2100 seems to do alright even in comparison with i5s (except in the case of SC2). the article doesn't really touch on gpus other than 7970 and 680


Starcraft II is more of a cpu intensive game isnt it?


----------



## erikss0n

Hi all,

I finally got my monitor here to France (17th May) but didnt have time to play around with it until today.
It's a nice screen - no doubt. I have not found any dead pixels but there is however some BLB present in the bottom of the screen.
I did some calibration with my Spyder3 but in the end I decided to use the Asus PB278Q color profile setting as I liked the way colors stood out more compared to the somewhat cold calibrated profile (6500K, 2.2 Gamma).

When trying to overclock i had to spend quite some time before I managed, bare in mind that this is the first time I overclock a monitor.









I am on a Windows 8, 64-bit system and are running 2 x Sapphire 7950 (Crossfire, bridged with 2 bridges). I then patched the video drivers with the pixel clock patcher. Then loaded up the CRU utility and overclocked to 96Hz and later 120Hz which seemed good, at least when in desktop mode.

When trying out games however (BF3, Tomb Raider, Trine 2 etc.) I had problems when leaving 60Hz. Both 96Hz and 120Hz shows some rolling/flickering effect that I seem unable to localize the cause of!? I have tried enabling/Disabling VSYNC and also a few other settings but no luck.

Has this been mentioned/observed by other users? I seem unable to find any info concerning this problem and It feels kind of sad to set the screen to 60Hz now that I am starting to get used to the stability of 96Hz.

Below I have collected some ifo that could help to solving my problem and also provided a 6sec youtube-clip that shows the effect in motion.

Crossing thumbs for a solution....

Driver info:


CRU:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/109/cru96.jpg/

Screen Resolution + CCC
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/59/96hz.jpg/

Video showing my flickering issue:





BTW. should the monitor driver be for "Generic PnP Monitor" ???


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erikss0n*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got my monitor here to France (17th May) but didnt have time to play around with it until today.
> It's a nice screen - no doubt. I have not found any dead pixels but there is however some BLB present in the bottom of the screen.
> I did some calibration with my Spyder3 but in the end I decided to use the Asus PB278Q color profile setting as I liked the way colors stood out more compared to the somewhat cold calibrated profile (6500K, 2.2 Gamma).
> 
> When trying to overclock i had to spend quite some time before I managed, bare in mind that this is the first time I overclock a monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am on a Windows 8, 64-bit system and are running 2 x Sapphire 7950 (Crossfire, bridged with 2 bridges). I then patched the video drivers with the pixel clock patcher. Then loaded up the CRU utility and overclocked to 96Hz and later 120Hz which seemed good, at least when in desktop mode.
> 
> When trying out games however (BF3, Tomb Raider, Trine 2 etc.) I had problems when leaving 60Hz. Both 96Hz and 120Hz shows some rolling/flickering effect that I seem unable to localize the cause of!? I have tried enabling/Disabling VSYNC and also a few other settings but no luck.
> 
> Has this been mentioned/observed by other users? I seem unable to find any info concerning this problem and It feels kind of sad to set the screen to 60Hz now that I am starting to get used to the stability of 96Hz.
> 
> Below I have collected some ifo that could help to solving my problem and also provided a 6sec youtube-clip that shows the effect in motion.
> 
> Crossing thumbs for a solution....
> 
> Driver info:
> 
> 
> CRU:
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/109/cru96.jpg/
> 
> Screen Resolution + CCC
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/59/96hz.jpg/
> 
> Video showing my flickering issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW. should the monitor driver be for "Generic PnP Monitor" ???


Well for a starter you could try the beta drivers for you GPU. I'm running 13.5.

Also i've heard some bad things about Win8 and the AMD drivers.. Haven't had issues on my laptop tho.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Does anyone think a fix will ever be available for the decreased brightness at 120hz? I pushed it up to 144hz for a few minutes and it was terrible, colors all faded into a display that looked like the gamma had been turned all the way down. 96hz seems to be the ideal zone but the image quality isn't as good as at 60hz, I tried running my monitor at 24hz to see if I would be able to make the colors even better than at 60hz but their was no change.

Few more things, if you are noticing your videos are slightly washed out go into nvidia control panel into video settings and switch the color mode from limited to full, this made movies look much better. The two check box options seem to do nothing if anyone has a preference let me know please.

Is there a better expansion algorithm to upscale 1080p videos? When I play them gray squares form in spots where it is dark and it looks worse than on my 1080p tv. I am currently not scaling videos showing a 1080p screen in the center of mine using VLC to acheive this.

Has anyone done interpolation to force 96hz content? There are many things I tried however they are all locked at 60hz which leads to stuttering. I don't mind the soap opera affect if it allows me not to get pissed off at fight sceens.

Finally which color setting do you like the best? My preference is the Samsung configuration as it is the most bright and counteracts the overclock.


----------



## PhilfromAustin

Just joined this site to say I got my glossy QNIX 27. It looks wonderful, a big step up from my 19 inch Samsung syncmaster. I ordered the Perfect Pixel from dream_seller last Wednesday late night for $339. The monitor came in Monday afternoon. I have minimal backlight bleed, only a tiny bit at the bottom edge, but completely unnoticeable unless I am looking for it. The screen is sturdy and the whole panel seems to be put together well and tight (no flimsy screen when you press with finger). The glossy finish is wonderful IMO, I have a window by my side, and it is only bothersome on completely black images. I managed to OC to 96hz. I have not tried anything else atm. I think I will try 120 now...

I wanted to say thanks for all of the information here. I couldn't and wouldn't have done it without this thread. So happy with my new monitor.

EDIT: 120hz working. This **** is amazing. Stock DVI cable, btw.


----------



## antipesto93

I just overclocked mine for the first time, makes it to 120hz , but as Feild Scarecrow mentioned the screen getting dim (Or whatever you like to call it) as the hz gets higher is pretty annoying, not sure how to overcome that.


----------



## OneGun

Do i have to tell Hulustar a custom value of price if i am in the united states?I don't get charged for customs right?


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Do i have to tell Hulustar a custom value of price if i am in the united states?I don't get charged for customs right?


there are no fees or taxes to the states, there in a trade agreement between the two countries


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erikss0n*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I finally got my monitor here to France (17th May) but didnt have time to play around with it until today.
> It's a nice screen - no doubt. I have not found any dead pixels but there is however some BLB present in the bottom of the screen.
> I did some calibration with my Spyder3 but in the end I decided to use the Asus PB278Q color profile setting as I liked the way colors stood out more compared to the somewhat cold calibrated profile (6500K, 2.2 Gamma).
> 
> When trying to overclock i had to spend quite some time before I managed, bare in mind that this is the first time I overclock a monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am on a Windows 8, 64-bit system and are running 2 x Sapphire 7950 (Crossfire, bridged with 2 bridges). I then patched the video drivers with the pixel clock patcher. Then loaded up the CRU utility and overclocked to 96Hz and later 120Hz which seemed good, at least when in desktop mode.
> 
> When trying out games however (BF3, Tomb Raider, Trine 2 etc.) I had problems when leaving 60Hz. Both 96Hz and 120Hz shows some rolling/flickering effect that I seem unable to localize the cause of!? I have tried enabling/Disabling VSYNC and also a few other settings but no luck.
> 
> Has this been mentioned/observed by other users? I seem unable to find any info concerning this problem and It feels kind of sad to set the screen to 60Hz now that I am starting to get used to the stability of 96Hz.
> 
> Below I have collected some ifo that could help to solving my problem and also provided a 6sec youtube-clip that shows the effect in motion.
> 
> Crossing thumbs for a solution....
> 
> Driver info:
> 
> 
> CRU:
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/109/cru96.jpg/
> 
> Screen Resolution + CCC
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/59/96hz.jpg/
> 
> Video showing my flickering issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW. should the monitor driver be for "Generic PnP Monitor" ???


You might need a different cable. I'm not using monitor driver yet so not sure what that will do. I get some lines while gaming at clocks higher than 120hz. But timing can fix it. I have a feeling though most yor issues are from the cable. 96hz should work fine though even with a bad cable. So could be something else.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> there are no fees or taxes to the states, there in a trade agreement between the two countries


Obama made some great deal. Don't nuke our country and we won't charge tax if you import goods lol


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Obama made some great deal. Don't nuke our country and we won't charge tax if you import goods lol


man, your confusing north Korea with south Korea


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> man, your confusing north Korea with south Korea


lol


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Well for a starter you could try the beta drivers for you GPU. I'm running 13.5.
> 
> Also i've heard some bad things about Win8 and the AMD drivers.. Haven't had issues on my laptop tho.


I have windows 8 and amd gpu's. I haven't had an issue.

I haven't been able to do 144, screen gets jump and scan lines and such. 120 is fine.


----------



## Hegro

Can anyone link me to a guide or tell me how to take the plastic arm that connects to the stand? I looked for a couple minutes today but had to run to work. I am at work now and want to take it off when I get home. Removed 4 screws but that seemed to do nothing. I have the matte x star. Thanks!


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Can anyone link me to a guide or tell me how to take the plastic arm that connects to the stand? I looked for a couple minutes today but had to run to work. I am at work now and want to take it off when I get home. Removed 4 screws but that seemed to do nothing. I have the matte x star. Thanks!







Watch his removing bezel video on how to get the bezel off.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> so I'm looking to get a new gpu to replace my gtx 460 768mb for it's lack of 1440p performance. any recommendations on how I should approach this? I was looking at a 3gb 7950 and a 2gb gtx 670, but I feel like the 7950 will work better at 1440p due to the extra vram.
> 
> Also, does anyone know if there's a difference if I use amd or nvidia for ocing the monitor or etc?
> 
> EDIT: I mainly play league, and looking at DX9 benchmarks, it seems like the 670 would work better in this case, 7950 for anything DX10


I just bit the bullet on a 4gb GTX670 for about $300. I've been running these two monitors on an 8800 ultra, so finally I'll be able to do something meaningful with them.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Obama made some great deal. Don't nuke our country and we won't charge tax if you import goods lol


ROFL!!! These are coming form South Korea, not North Korea.


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> I just bit the bullet on a 4gb GTX670 for about $300. I've been running these two monitors on an 8800 ultra, so finally I'll be able to do something meaningful with them.


oh lordy, tell me how I can score a sweet deal like that!


----------



## derfer

Need to pick one of these tonight. Comparing the hulustar qnix ($317) vs his x-star ($305). Is the only difference the logo and the price? I saw in the FAQ about the chance of different boards, has anyone ordered hulustar's x-star and seen if the board is the same?


----------



## OneGun

I just went for the $317 Qnix from huckster. I ordered last night. They have the 0-2 dead pixel on all monitors promotion right now so I went with it..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> oh lordy, tell me how I can score a sweet deal like that!


Yeah thats pretty cheap. Those cards run for around 370-390 usually.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I am assuming a used 670...still a good deal, of course.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> I just bit the bullet on a 4gb GTX670 for about $300. I've been running these two monitors on an 8800 ultra, so finally I'll be able to do something meaningful with them.


Nice! I got my Gigabyte Windforce 680 4GB for about $350 because of an Amazon.com error.


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Nice! I got my Gigabyte Windforce 680 4GB for about $350 because of an Amazon.com error.


I'm 4 minutes from bidding on a 670 2gb for about $300, I think I'll try and get something better now.

EDIT: Nvm about needing more vram, but amd gpus are getting to become a good idea for the cost


----------



## damianzmd

Should be here any minute now! Will post unboxing pics as soon as I get it


----------



## rickdmer

I finally got my three X-Stars mounted up. Cable management is still a work in progress, haha.

[email protected]


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickdmer*
> 
> I finally got my three X-Stars mounted up. Cable management is still a work in progress, haha.
> 
> [email protected]


Nice setup..You are running 3 1440p monitors of a 2gb 670?What are you playing solitaire?


----------



## rickdmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Nice setup..You are running 3 1440p monitors of a 2gb 670?What are you playing solitaire?


2x670's in SLI (overclocked)


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickdmer*
> 
> 2x670's in SLI (overclocked)


Sweettt!! I was just messing with you bud..Monitors look great.All 3 came working and in good shape?Who was the seller?


----------



## damianzmd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickdmer*
> 
> I finally got my three X-Stars mounted up. Cable management is still a work in progress, haha.
> 
> [email protected]


Damn got any benchmarks? What fps do you get with 2x 670's in games?


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickdmer*
> 
> I finally got my three X-Stars mounted up. Cable management is still a work in progress, haha.
> 
> [email protected]


Damn, all three of those monitors can OC to 120 hz!? Lucky!


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickdmer*
> 
> I finally got my three X-Stars mounted up. Cable management is still a work in progress, haha.
> 
> [email protected]


Very nice, and that must be really hard on your system.=o


----------



## Paps.pt

Finally!!








Just received my Qnix QX2710, I´m at work at the moment, can´t wait to get home.









YEEEEEAAAAAAAHHHH


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Finally!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just received my Qnix QX2710, I´m at work at the moment, can´t wait to get home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YEEEEEAAAAAAAHHHH


Let me know how it goes.I ordered mine last night so i hope i get this week..How long did it take to get yours?


----------



## wato21

First off thanks for this great thread! I went ahead and purchased a Qnix matte2710 last night hope to see it soon. My question is and sorry I couldn't see it when searching through the 172 pages.... I have a gigabyte HD7970 http://www.msy.com.au/product.jsp?productId=8725
Will the Qnix be compatible out of the box or will I need something more?
Cheers.....


----------



## wato21

.


----------



## damianzmd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wato21*
> 
> First off thanks for this great thread! I went ahead and purchased a Qnix matte2710 last night hope to see it soon. My question is and sorry I couldn't see it when searching through the 172 pages.... I have a gigabyte HD7970 http://www.msy.com.au/product.jsp?productId=8725
> Will the Qnix be compatible out of the box or will I need something more?
> Cheers.....


It should work right out the box, assuming you have a working DVI Dual Link cable. Although for overclocking, you may need to patch your drivers and get a higher gauge DVI cable.

Still waiting on mine to come, according to tracking it should be here tomorrow morning!

I just purchased this VESA stand for it, which should make my desk a little less cluttered with 27 inches of IPS sex taking up everything.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Let me know how it goes.I ordered mine last night so i hope i get this week..How long did it take to get yours?


I live in Portugal. It took 15 days, 7 of them were in customs.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Let me know how it goes.I ordered mine last night so i hope i get this week..How long did it take to get yours?


Takes about 3-4 business days for US. Not long at all


----------



## wato21

Thanks for the reply. Now the wait begins........


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I live in Portugal. It took 15 days, 7 of them were in customs.


Two weeks, OMG.

I ordered one on the monday to the Czech Republic and i think I will have to wait a pay









Here is a nice application to see the differences between Hz and FPS and Blur
http://frames-per-second.appspot.com/


----------



## ElementR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Takes about 3-4 business days for US. Not long at all


Yup I ordered mine Friday night. It shipped Monday and arrives today. South Korea to Tampa in 2 days shipping time!


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> Two weeks, OMG.
> 
> I ordered one on the monday to the Czech Republic and i think I will have to wait a pay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a nice application to see the differences between Hz and FPS and Blur
> http://frames-per-second.appspot.com/


Not necessarily. My delivery took longer because Portuguese Custons demanded for a European Union Certificate and I had to convince them otherwise. Yours should be quicker.


----------



## hbbb

I just have my Qnix 2710 shipped from green-sum.
I noticed a problem of slack build between the panel and the bezel frame.
If you hold the frame still and use one finger to push the panel, the panel moves about 3mm into the frame and you can easily see the gap in between the panel & frame.
Such problem can be easily observed at each side of the panel. It's everywhere!
Luckily, if you don't push the panel, it just leans against the frame well so no gap is observed.

I didn't heard of others talking about this kind of problem.
I just want to know whether it is a common problem of this model or I am just too lucky to get this "lemon LCD"??


----------



## wrigleyvillain

LOL so not a "lemon", dude...

This is a somewhat common problem and is called "panel play" and there is also a fix in the OP which involves opening it. I do not have this issue myself except slightly on the bottom left corner...but I also have a fair amount of backlight bleed and I have a hunch that those with more panel play have less bleed (though I would think it would be the opposite). What does yours look like in that regard?


----------



## Gilgam3sh

no panel play here no more since I opened it up and put some tape here and there, it's perfect now







also decreased the backlight bleed alot, so now it does not bother me anymore.


----------



## Coree

Did I count correct?! Looks like i have 11 stuck pixels altogether. When i turn on a black screen, 1 of them is only clearly visible. Others are not that visible, only if I look at them at the distance of 2cm. All of these are located on my right side of the screen. Is this normal o.o does not bother me though.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> no panel play here no more since I opened it up and put some tape here and there, it's perfect now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also decreased the backlight bleed alot, so now it does not bother me anymore.


All right so you had lots of play _and_ bleed. Ok, hunch incorrect...

Good to know, thanks and +rep.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coree*
> 
> Did I count correct?! Looks like i have 11 stuck pixels altogether. When i turn on a black screen, 1 of them is only clearly visible. Others are not that visible, only if I look at them at the distance of 2cm. All of these are located on my right side of the screen. Is this normal o.o does not bother me though.


Hmm well dead pixels on PLS appear black (as opposed to white on IPS). If not dead and just stuck though perhaps can be "massaged" out with use.


----------



## Coree

http://www.jscreenfix.com/
Has anyone tested this? (Did it work?)


----------



## Coree

Yeah, the colors in mine are blue/red/green, so they aren't dead.

sry for double


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah something like that could/should work as could normal use like gaming or video.


----------



## killerfrenzi

just found out DHL has delivered my package, now I'm just waiting for the campus email to say I got a package.

my brother Brightbus, I hope you got your monitor today as well!

on the side note, what and how should I do testings? I should be able to do them with instructions from OP? I'll take pics of tests if I can.


----------



## OneGun

I ordered mine Monday night and it hasn't even shipped yet.. BS


----------



## UNOE

Here is a mini update on opening the panel up.
I was able to fix my backlight bleed completely and it was really bad. I put a wad of electrical tap under the panel in one corner (bottom left) and the reduced the bleeding quite a bit.

I tuned the panel on while it was open this help me identify where the panel was not straight. Pushing on the monitor before while it was in the case didn't do anything but while it was open and I lifted one corner and noticed most the bleeding from the two spots on the middle bottom edge where gone when I lifted that corner. So adding a shim in that corner got rid of most the light.

I also went all the way around the whole panel at taped the edges of seam where matte meets the metal bezel. I need ever edge and every side I noticed in places that seem to have no bleeding this still helped. So I just keep taping. I taped it down while the monitor was on so I would be sure I wasn't taping over and pixels but I put tape on the screen as close as I count get to pixels without covering them. Then I ran my finger nail over the tape to make it stick in the seam. By the way the electrical tape I bought was really sticky much better than anything I ever seen before. It was 3M professional grade. I think if it was regular tape it would have came out as good because I know other tape I used before wouldn't stick that well in a small seem like that.

The MonoPrice mount didn't fit out of box. I had to go to the hardware store and buy eight #6 washers to use as a space for the screws to fit the mount correctly. The MonoPrice mount is huge and solid. Take up alot of desk space in front of the monitor.

I'm very happy how it turned out with tape mode. The screen was one of the worse bleeders but now super clean. (Ill try to get pictures later when it's dark)

One odd thing though monitor is not clocking as high now. I have no idea why. But getting some random lines now at 120hz now after opening the panel. With all these mods I never disconnected any connectors at all. Just lifted the panel to take off the old mount and left all internal connectors plugged in ( with power off, obviously ) then did some of the taping later with it powered on. Put the bezel back on, and now it doesn't overclock as high, weird.

I guess that wasn't a mini update.


----------



## majnu

Finally in transit, as hulustar takes one day doing testing. I do hope it comes on Bank Holiday Monday and DHL deliver then, it will be perfect timing on a lazy day in.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Finally in transit, as hulustar takes one day doing testing. I do hope it comes on Bank Holiday Monday and DHL deliver then, it will be perfect timing on a lazy day in.


when did you order yours? I fell I got screwed on this deal..Dam I hate waiting lol


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> when did you order yours? I fell I got screwed on this deal..Dam I hate waiting lol


Ordered and Paid on Monday Afternoon GMT.
Tuesday he spent testing (as it says in the description - One Day testing iirc)
Today Wednesday Shipped and en route to UK. (3-5 Business Days)


----------



## faiyez

I'm worried sick. The brainless oaf from the freight forwarding service that ordered my monitor got his own company's address wrong in my parcel. He missed the street number. It hasn't arrived yet, but who knows if DHL is going to deliver this without delay or need of assistance.

To make matters worse, surely enough Memorial Day is coming. Why are these American holidays always in the way for me? I need this airboxed out of the US by Friday if not I'll cry.


----------



## nimski

Hello all, I just made this account to determine if this amount of backlight bleed is normal. My monitor came in today and I see two very bad bleed spots on the bottom with one having a yellow tint


----------



## Paps.pt

I am truly impressed with my monitor. I have no bleeding and zero dead pixels, I am amazed with my luck. OCed to 96hz, tomorrow will try 120hz but maybe will stay at 96hz. Don't want to be constantly changing it and I gathered that keeping at 120hz is not safe, am I wrong? 96 frames per second seems good enough, right?
Couple of photos:


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I am truly impressed with my monitor. I have no bleeding and zero dead pixels, I am amazed with my luck. OCed to 96hz, tomorrow will try 120hz but maybe will stay at 96hz. Don't want to be constantly changing it and I gathered that keeping at 120hz is not safe, am I wrong? 96 frames per second seems good enough, right?
> Couple of photos:


Nice..Who did you order from?


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Nice..Who did you order from?


Green-Sum. I just tried 120Hz and it works perfectly!!! Very very very impressed.









Can I keep it or should reduce it to 96Hz? Which color profile should I use? I used this one:

Originally Posted by dascth

2.2 gamma
6500k whitepoint temperature

120 Hz, 120cd/m2 brightness (12 "clicks" up from min brightness), matte monitor
QX2710 2013-04-20 D6500 neutral 2.2 HQ-MQ XYZLUT+MTX EDID-OFF 120Hz w_perceptual gamut mapping.zip 121k .zip file

but it seems the white gets a bit "redish", is there any other 120Hz profile I can try, please?

Thanks


----------



## brightbus

I got my second one in today, unfortunately I'm at work for a couple of more hours







Will set it up when I get home


----------



## Paps.pt

Here is some photos I did to try and show the little to non existent light bleeding:





Edit: I tried playing Metro Last Light in 96Hz or in 120Hz and the screen flickers, like a strobe effect, is this normal or is it something I can fix?


----------



## ElementR

My QX2710 arrived and I cannot be happier. 0 Dead/Stuck pixels and no noticeable BLB. Purchased it from excellentcastle on eBay.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Here is some photos I did to try and show the little to non existent light bleeding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I tried playing Metro Last Light in 96Hz or in 120Hz and the screen flickers, like a strobe effect, is this normal or is it something I can fix?


have you tried a different dvi cable?


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> have you tried a different dvi cable?


no. I don't have another one. Will try another game first. Thanks


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> no. I don't have another one. Will try another game first. Thanks


Since I don't have Last Light, when you change res, does it show the Hz it'll use, Maybe its stuck at 2560x1440 60Hz


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well Paps that is _some_ bleed but definitely pretty good overall and if it were mine probably would not be opening her up. Bet you don't notice that much if at all in use. Worse on cam too it seems so...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Hello all, I just made this account to determine if this amount of backlight bleed is normal. My monitor came in today and I see two very bad bleed spots on the bottom with one having a yellow tint


Damn dude I am sorry to say I think this might be the new "worst one yet". That is really bright, especially on the left bottom. So while that amount may not be _normal_ it still doesn't mean that the seller will take it back for such. Not saying they won't for sure nor that you shouldn't try if you prefer that route. The other route-and the good news-is you most likely can fix it...but you have to open her up.

Yeah there really is no "normal" bleed cause it's related to crappy construction of frame and such. You either get alot or you don't. And it's also subjective as to whether it really bothers you or not.


----------



## nimski

Can someone please tell me if this or normal or should I attempt to return this monitor?








[/quote]


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Can someone please tell me if this or normal or should I attempt to return this monitor?


[/quote]

Seems normal to me.


----------



## nimski

Any idea on how to fix this? Where do I place the black electric tape? On the panel from the inside?


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Can someone please tell me if this or normal or should I attempt to return this monitor?]


That is not normal. Especially the left side. I would contact the seller first and see what they want to do. If they give you the ok then I would open it up and try to fix it.


----------



## AirWick

I was supposed to get it deliver today, those bastards at DHL didn't bother trying to have it deliver. Now I have to wait til tomorrow.


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Can someone please tell me if this or normal or should I attempt to return this monitor?


That is not normal at all, in my opinion I would try to contact the seller.

But onto my monitor.... I ordered from the eBay seller Red-cap for $309 and the package was delivered to my door within the same week of ordering. Absolutely pixel perfect and almost no backlight bleed, I was very impressed. Was even more excited when the monitor ran 96hz and then 120hz flawlessly on the stock cable, though I still ordered a 24awg cable.

Here are the pics:




Couldn't be more happier with my purchase.

Edit: I also love the black levels on these panels.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Can someone please tell me if this or normal or should I attempt to return this monitor?


[/quote]Who was seller on this monitor?


----------



## guitarwar241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Any idea on how to fix this? Where do I place the black electric tape? On the panel from the inside?


I'd like to know this as well. The instructions on how to fix light bleed weren't very specific.


----------



## nimski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*


Who was seller on this monitor?[/quote]

The seller was dream-seller, IIRC another member a few days ago received a defective monitor from him and refused to replace. I am NOT happy with this monitor purchase as I constantly see a yellow tint on the left side going halfway up the monitor and a white bleed on the other


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Who was seller on this monitor?


The seller was dream-seller, IIRC another member a few days ago received a defective monitor from him and refused to replace. I am NOT happy with this monitor purchase as I constantly see a yellow tint on the left side going halfway up the monitor and a white bleed on the other[/quote]
The backlight bleed is about like mine was I contacted my seller they said it was normal. I opened it last night and fixed it. It is amazing now. I think with the way I taped mine its better than and stock monitor out there. I use to have bad backlight like yours. And even slight lighting about one or two pixels deep around the entire monitor, I think everyone has that, but even that is gone now too with the tape mod.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> when did you order yours? I fell I got ****** on this deal..Dam I hate waiting lol


Mine took 24 hours to get a tracking number. Keep in mind time zones.
It only took 36 hours from when I got tracking number until I had the monitor. You still might have it by Thursday or Friday. Don't fret


----------



## nimski

Unoe,

Can you please post pictures or explain thoroughly on how to do the tape mod? A lot of us would greatly appreciate on how to do it properly, because as of right now, the yellow tint is driving me insane.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

He did post pictures as well as a pretty thorough description like two or three pages ago dude. There is also more info in the OP as well as scatttered throughout both threads. I realize they are long but the info is all here already and the constant rehashing is one reason they are so long in the first place.

Another bad mark for dream-seller. AVOID.


----------



## guitarwar241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Unoe,
> 
> Can you please post pictures or explain thoroughly on how to do the tape mod? A lot of us would greatly appreciate on how to do it properly, because as of right now, the yellow tint is driving me insane.


I would absolutely love a solid explanation on how to do it as I've got some light bleed in a few spots that are bothering me.


----------



## nimski

Ah yes, I read that. Could you possibly add pictures of the whole procedure? This is something that could go onto the first post under the 'FAQ" and help a lot of people out (not to mention keep questions like these from being posted)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

There is not really such a thing because your bleed is not going to be in the exact same spots and may not even be caused by the exact same thing. UNOE did make it a lot more specific just today a few pages ago frankly with a great tip too to turn it on while it is open so you can see what effect your tape is having as you do it.

I don't really like the whole idea either man but you are just going to have to crack yours open. Once you do this will all make a lot more sense. We don't even need to move the panels themselves in any major way or unplug anything. Just start with the four bottom screws and then it will start to come apart (just plastic clips hold front and back together).

As for pics I have seen some but they haven't been very helpful cause I don't yet really know what I am looking at. Again, just do it.

Edit: By the way just removing the screws alone may relieve some pressure and at least make some of the bleed less.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarwar241*
> 
> I would absolutely love a solid explanation on how to do it as I've got some light bleed in a few spots that are bothering me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Unoe,
> 
> Can you please post pictures or explain thoroughly on how to do the tape mod? A lot of us would greatly appreciate on how to do it properly, because as of right now, the yellow tint is driving me insane.


I have some pics that I plan to post just sitting down today for first time. I want to get one more picture with the monitor in a completely dark room to show the improvements. So its still daylight here in Cali, stay tuned.
But I didn't post any pictures a few pages back yet, that must have been someone else I did the tape mod last night.


----------



## nimski

Could you possibly post the pictures now? I'll follow the mod and post my results afterwards


----------



## damianzmd

Okay so my QNIX QX2710 just arrived this morning!



I paid $317AUD including shipping, and did not spend extra for the "Zero Dead Pixel" stock, although when it arrived it had a "Zero Dead Pixel" sticker, but ironically it had one dead pixel.

It was ordered from Hulustar on the 16th, and due do a public holiday, and then the weekend it was shipped out to me via DHL on the 20th Monday and arrived today - 23rd Thursday. (Seoul, South Korea to Melbourne, Australia)

Overall the seller experience has been good, I asked him questions about the monitor about whether he would open it up and check for dead pixels and back light bleeding to which he replied he would.

So on with the unboxing...

Unlike some other users here who received theirs covered in foam, mine was covered in a thick layer of plastic wrap, and was taped to every surface of the damn box - was freakin' annoying to get off!



As you can see here, the box has the 'Zero Dead Pixel' sticker, and I believe the sticker next to it denotes a Matte panel as opposed to the Glossy ones. It was taped up heavily, and you could easily tell that it was unboxed previously - which in this case is a good thing.



The box was packed pretty tight and neat, which meant nothing was moving around inside the box when I shook it a little.



One thing I should mention are the VESA mounting points, I have actually purchased this VESA mount, so it should bolt right on.



Box with all the accessories, power adaptor, power cable (Korean), travel adaptor, DVI-D cable, 3.5mm audio cable and instruction manual.





Mmmm look at that reading material.





Here's a close up of the DVI-D, I've been able to overclock mine to 120Hz with this cable so it's done well for itself!



And here it is out of the box, with the screen protector that looks as if it has been passed down...



Here's a pic of the base edge, it almost looks worn out, you probably can't see it as clear in this image but it's not really an issue.



Now here's an interesting pic, I've got the matte version, although being matte it isn't as matte as my old LGE2441-BV, which was almost solid matte compared to this. So there is still the opportunity for a little glare. But as I've been using the monitor right now to type this up with the window light directly on it, I can barely notice that much glare.



And all hooked up and looking absolutely amazing. I have to say, as it has been said many times in this thread before - the image quality is absolutely amazing, very vivid and bright. Although I did end up using the .ICC file for the Samsung S27A850D, which has the same panel as the QX2710. I got it from TFT Central, it's custom made from the guys over there.



Just a bit of close ups of the panel.





And here's that one dead pixel...



Here's another image with a better background. I'm hoping eventually it will go away, but in all honesty you can't notice it at all from viewing distance, as you will see soon with the dead pixel tests.



It's alive! Very nice looking panel again.



All hooked up... make no mistake this is a big monitor!



So here are some test images.









So as you can see there is a VERY minimal amount of back light bleeding, and honestly cannot identify any until I actually took those pictures.

Now overclocking wise I was able to hit 120Hz easily without any artifacts, although I'm just running at 100Hz for the time being. I am using the cable that came with the monitor, and running an NVIDIA GTX560 (non-Ti.)

I'd recommend looking into calibrating the display, even though it looks amazing I wouldn't call it accurate.

To touch on a few things that have been said before such as the panel play mine has a little amount of play but nothing to cry home to.

The base stand isn't premium quality, but it honestly isn't that bad. In my case I'll be taking it off soon and mounting it to my VESA stand.

In conclusion I'm very happy with my purchase. $317, no delay in shipping, Hulustar was prompt with communication. No backlight bleeding and only one dead pixel that I can barely notice, and a stable overclock at 120Hz.

One issue I'm having that obviously isn't a monitor problem, is that I can't keep the refresh rate in games such as CSS, CSGO etc. Is there a way to force this?

Anyways hope you guys liked my unboxing, and for those wondering if they should commit to one of these I'd definitely recommend doing so.. $300, honestly?


----------



## fake13371

While overclocking my X-star DP2710 I seem to get LCD burn in/image retention temporarily. It goes away after a couple of minutes and is most clearly seen on grey backgrounds, and to some extent blue-ish colors. It's not visible whatsoever on for example black, white or red backgrounds. The burn in doesn't seem appear at all when running the monitor on 60hz, at least not within an hour or so as opposed to 96hz or above.

Any explanation for this? Any way to prevent it from happening?


----------



## rickdmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Sweettt!! I was just messing with you bud..Monitors look great.All 3 came working and in good shape?Who was the seller?


I got my first one from dream-seller and returned it because it had a butt load of dead pixels. It was a really really awful buying experience and I would recommend everyone to stay away (which I don't do lightly).

The three in the photo are from hulustar.


----------



## rickdmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damianzmd*
> 
> Damn got any benchmarks? What fps do you get with 2x 670's in games?


I can play BF3 on medium/low settings at 3x2560x1440 and get around 40-70 fps. Or I can play on ultra/high with one monitor at 2560x1440 and get 90-130fps.

I haven't done any benchmarks yet but if you had something in mind I can run it and let you know.


----------



## damianzmd

Does anyone know why I am getting 60fps max in games, I have oc'd to 120Hz, but it doesn't budge in games


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rickdmer*
> 
> I got my first one from dream-seller and returned it because it had a butt load of dead pixels. It was a really really awful buying experience and I would recommend everyone to stay away (which I don't do lightly).
> 
> The three in the photo are from hulustar.


Nice setup bud..About dream seller you are the third person this week who had bad issues with them..I am so happy i bought mine from hulustar..Most people are saying to stay away from dream seller..

Ya when i turn off vsync and just let the screen tear i get between 90 and 170fps in BF3 also at 1440p with game maxed..So i can't wait for a OCed monitor..


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damianzmd*
> 
> Does anyone know why I am getting 60fps max in games, I have oc'd to 120Hz, but it doesn't budge in games


What games are you talking about?


----------



## damianzmd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> What games are you talking about?


For now CSS, CSGO?


----------



## brightbus

Ok Guys so I got my second monitor in, so I decided maybe I should write a review of some sort

Background info, I ordered my first monitor from a seller on amazon. The monitor is great, but has bad issues with the shipping, should have gotten here in 3-4 days took about 7, and at one point wasn't sure it was going to get delivered.

The second one I just now got today. Ordered from Hulustar on Saturday, received today on Wednesday

Monitor number one, havent seen any dead pixels, and minor blb. However panel isn't fully snug in bottom right corner. It's overclocked to 120 hz and is fantastic. I have a lot of steam games that I play from time to time, and havent had any issues. Bioshock and Tomb Raider looks awesome on this thing.

Monitor number 2. Couldnt figure out why it wouldnt turn on. Had it pluged into mini-dp to dvi-d dual link adapter, power and everything. Restarted computer a couple times, nothing. Then saw that I didn't turn the power on. Silly me.









Second monitor has minor blb, also display is snug in all four corner with little to no play. I found one stuck pixel during startup (blue) but don't see during normal operation. It's in the bottom right have corner.

So going to focus mainly on the second monitor



Package as it came from Hulustar. Had gray plastic covering the box.


Box after plastic has been taken off


Piece of plastic type material covering the screen to protect it during shipping.


After covering is removed


New monitor on left (portrait). Previous monitor in the middle. An old Aoc on the right. It looks kind of wonky with that funky stand that it has. I may switch it with an Dell monitor I have of the same size, but the screen quality is not as good. Eventually I'll get a third Qnix to go there. Exhuasted all my play money this month







.


Qnix number two on the left, Qnix number one in the middle.

The middle monitor is calibrated using one of the profiles I got from page one of this thread. I have not done the new one yet. Middle one is also over clocked to 120 hz. Havent been able to overclock second one yet, either doing something wrong or video card limitation. Ill play around with it later.

Also if you didn't notice I have these on a triple monitor stand. You can fit three barely in landscape mode on this. Eventually I'll probably run all three in eyefinity portrait mode. Yes the stubs are still on the stand monitors because I don't have the right dill bit/phillips head to get the screws out. When I go get one, Ill get around to taking them out. The stand itself is pretty sturdy, as long as there's equal weight on it. It's a standalone but can be drilled to the desk/table for more support.

All in all can't wait till I can afford to get a third one, then a better video card to run something truly awesome. Thanks for your time guys!

PS Sorry for the bad pictures. I have a small room and a phone so not the best


----------



## nimski

Okay so I managed to fix my monitor without using any tape. Turns out the clips that bolt the display to the frame were on too tight. I loosed all the bottom ones and the ones on the side and it made a HUGE difference.

Went from this:



To this:


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Okay so I managed to fix my monitor without using any tape. Turns out the clips that bolt the display to the frame were on too tight. I loosed all the bottom ones and the ones on the side and it made a HUGE difference.
> 
> Went from this:
> 
> 
> 
> To this:


Nice glad you got it fixed..


----------



## OneGun

Well it has now been 48hrs and it still has not even shipped..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Well it has now been 48hrs and it still has not even shipped..


Who'd you order from?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Here is a mini update on opening the panel up.
> I was able to fix my backlight bleed completely and it was really bad. I put a wad of electrical tap under the panel in one corner (bottom left) and the reduced the bleeding quite a bit.
> 
> I tuned the panel on while it was open this help me identify where the panel was not straight. Pushing on the monitor before while it was in the case didn't do anything but while it was open and I lifted one corner and noticed most the bleeding from the two spots on the middle bottom edge where gone when I lifted that corner. So adding a shim in that corner got rid of most the light.
> 
> I also went all the way around the whole panel at taped the edges of seam where matte meets the metal bezel. I need ever edge and every side I noticed in places that seem to have no bleeding this still helped. So I just keep taping. I taped it down while the monitor was on so I would be sure I wasn't taping over and pixels but I put tape on the screen as close as I count get to pixels without covering them. Then I ran my finger nail over the tape to make it stick in the seam. By the way the electrical tape I bought was really sticky much better than anything I ever seen before. It was 3M professional grade. I think if it was regular tape it would have came out as good because I know other tape I used before wouldn't stick that well in a small seem like that.
> 
> The MonoPrice mount didn't fit out of box. I had to go to the hardware store and buy eight #6 washers to use as a space for the screws to fit the mount correctly. The MonoPrice mount is huge and solid. Take up alot of desk space in front of the monitor.
> 
> I'm very happy how it turned out with tape mode. The screen was one of the worse bleeders but now super clean. (Ill try to get pictures later when it's dark)
> 
> One odd thing though monitor is not clocking as high now. I have no idea why. But getting some random lines now at 120hz now after opening the panel. With all these mods I never disconnected any connectors at all. Just lifted the panel to take off the old mount and left all internal connectors plugged in ( with power off, obviously ) then did some of the taping later with it powered on. Put the bezel back on, and now it doesn't overclock as high, weird.
> 
> I guess that wasn't a mini update.


I'm quoting myself above... this was some of the details I shared earlier.

The pictures last night turned out to dark or to blurry. But I have one picture that turned out okay that paints the picture as to what I did. To be honest I had no idea if I was doing it right since the OP has little to no detail on the tape mod. In one of the videos I see someone tape mod is done different than mine. In the video they actually got tape between the panel and the metal frame. I had trouble disconnecting the first connector and was getting tired so I gave up on removing the metal frame and just started to put tape along the edge and then turned monitor on while it was open to see how it looked and it did help so I taped the entire monitor all edges all the way around using the method in the photo. I used my finger nail to push part of the tape onto the matte screen there is about 8 pixels wide of a dead area between the panel and the frame that doesn't light up. I did all my taping with the monitor on with a blue screen so I could see where I was taping and to make sure I didn't tape over any pixels it didn't take long at all really.

Sorry I know the pictures are terrible... on the left of this picture you see how the tape is overlapping the seam slightly. This is what I did. I think you need really good electrical tape for this.


I used a wad of electrical tape to put pressure under the panel in the corner. This helped the backlight bleed more than the tape mod. Most of my bleeding was because the panel frame was bowed on the middle bottom of the frame. I also put some light pressure to try to bend the frame back where I saw it was bowing. After these two steps the big trouble spots where gone.


Before lighted room


Before dark room


After lighted room


After dark room


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Okay so I managed to fix my monitor without using any tape. Turns out the clips that bolt the display to the frame were on too tight. I loosed all the bottom ones and the ones on the side and it made a HUGE difference.


Nice it does seem like the frame is the problem. I didn't even notice the clips where tight.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Who'd you order from?


Hulustar..I just got my tracking number..









Now i just hope i get it by friday so i don't have to wait till tuesday cause of holiday monday..I am excited..


----------



## nimski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Nice it does seem like the frame is the problem. I didn't even notice the clips where tight.


I think me and you had a different problem. Mine was being completely crushed by the whole metal frame that you couldn't get off, so I unclipped the bottom portion and the sides. I wedged paper towels into the bottom of the monitor to keep it from sliding down and taped the frame down while exerting some pressure. That seemed to get rid of 80% of the bleeding.

I think its funny how dream-seller left a note saying the monitor was 'inspected' for any defects, yet sends me this. My advice to anyone would be *to open up the case* if you have any issues of backlight bleeding. You'll eventually find the problem through trial and error and it will make a HUGE difference


----------



## chughes65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Who'd you order from?


Hey Brightbus, what adapter are you using to run your second monitor?


----------



## finalheaven

Hey guys,

I've been lurking in this thread since about 30-40 pages ago and really considering purchasing a 27inch monitor. I currently own a 24" LG 1920x1200. I've had it for over 5 years and now I think its dying. I'm seeing random dark burn in spots and they never seem to go away and seems to be slowly getting worse.

However, i own a 5850. One of the video cards that isn't recommended. I've researched and most people can still use these monitors but some are unable to view to bios. Bios is pretty important to me since i o/c my computer. I don't really need to o/c the monitor though but am highly interested.

Since it's been 5 years, I believe its definitely time to upgrade. My question is, will 5850 work with bios and how would you guys enjoy your monitor without o/cing it? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Gilgam3sh

someone should put this on first page

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE

it shows how to open it up and tape mod etc...

btw for those of you who can't hit 120Hz stable, just run 96Hz instead of 100,110 etc..


----------



## andygully

can someone from the uk let me no if they paid import duty and vat?

and also which one is best the x-star which is slighly cheaper or the qnix?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> can someone from the uk let me no if they paid import duty and vat?
> 
> and also which one is best the x-star which is slighly cheaper or the qnix?


They are both the same from what i have heard..I just went with Qnix Cause more people had them..Plus X-star on my monitor would make me feel like a star wars nerd...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've been lurking in this thread since about 30-40 pages ago and really considering purchasing a 27inch monitor. I currently own a 24" LG 1920x1200. I've had it for over 5 years and now I think its dying. I'm seeing random dark burn in spots and they never seem to go away and seems to be slowly getting worse.
> 
> However, i own a 5850. One of the video cards that isn't recommended. I've researched and most people can still use these monitors but some are unable to view to bios. Bios is pretty important to me since i o/c my computer. I don't really need to o/c the monitor though but am highly interested.
> 
> Since it's been 5 years, I believe its definitely time to upgrade. My question is, will 5850 work with bios and how would you guys enjoy your monitor without o/cing it? Thanks in advance.


If you are not going to OC it then maybe get a Monoprice with all of the inputs..I have one right now and its a great monitor but it will not OC at all without frame skipping.Plus it is guaranteed pixel perfect with a year warranty..

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?p_id=10489&seq=1&format=2


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> If you are not going to OC it then maybe get a Monoprice with all of the inputs..I have one right now and its a great monitor but it will not OC at all without frame skipping.Plus it is guaranteed pixel perfect with a year warranty..
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?p_id=10489&seq=1&format=2


I really don't need any inputs other than the DVI from my desktop. Won't ever need to connect it to my TV since I will always have a set top box. Currently I have an Andriod XMBC set top box to stream everything.

I like the cheap price + the option to o/c since I play PC games more than consoles. Its either I purchase a dell 2413hm for $300 or an 27in for $300. I figure maybe a 27in + $40-50 more for a squaretrade 3 year warranty would be better.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I really don't need any inputs other than the DVI from my desktop. Won't ever need to connect it to my TV since I will always have a set top box. Currently I have an Andriod XMBC set top box to stream everything.
> 
> I like the cheap price + the option to o/c since I play PC games more than consoles. Its either I purchase a dell 2413hm for $300 or an 27in for $300. I figure maybe a 27in + $40-50 more for a squaretrade 3 year warranty would be better.


Mine is on the way right now..I paid $317 plus the $50 for warranty from Hulustar..Whatever you choose don't go with dream seller as there have been issues with them lately..


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> can someone from the uk let me no if they paid import duty and vat?


All the info is on the HMRC website, you won't have to pay anything if the item is a gift and under £36 in value. Hulustar marked mine as a gift and £36.10 value (I asked for £35...) and I paid about £12 in duties. Make sure to contact the seller immediately after the sale about the customs declaration otherwise you might get a very large bill.


----------



## miket5au

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> However, i own a 5850. One of the video cards that isn't recommended. I've researched and most people can still use these monitors but some are unable to view to bios. Bios is pretty important to me since i o/c my computer. I don't really need to o/c the monitor though but am highly interested.


I have a 5870 (also on the unsupported list) and I can see the bios. I have a QNix.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chughes65*
> 
> Hey Brightbus, what adapter are you using to run your second monitor?


I'm using this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I6L6DW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## brightbus

Anyone been able to overclock a second monitor? I've done the same settings at the first time, but the new refresh rate doesn't show up in the amd vision software.


----------



## self_slaughter

Bit the bullet and ordered a pixel perfect xstar from hulustar on Tuesday for $335 shipped.
Fingers crossed it gets here tomorrow









Tracking says it just left Singapore, so hopefully its headed straight here from there








Pretty impressed with the shipping etc so far, just hope I get a good monitor!

Don't normally deal with no-name stuff like this but for [email protected] its a risk I'm willing to take lol


----------



## Gilgam3sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> Bit the bullet and ordered a pixel perfect xstar from hulustar on Tuesday for $335 shipped.
> Fingers crossed it gets here tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tracking says it just left Singapore, so hopefully its headed straight here from there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty impressed with the shipping etc so far, just hope I get a good monitor!
> 
> Don't normally deal with no-name stuff like this but for [email protected] its a risk I'm willing to take lol


I understand what you mean with no-name stuff but in this case it's a SAMSUNG panel


----------



## FrostyAMD

Ok some how I screwed up while trying to overclock. I've got a 670GTX and want to check out overclocking. Somehow I've patched my drivers and managed to overclock my dual monitor setup to 96hz on both monitors. But then I wanted to get ride of the test mode thingy and discovered itis harder than I thought. In looking back I realized I could have just used my regular drivers and the catleeap inf to accomplish my task. Will I have to clean then reionstall drivers to accomplish this simpler overclocking???


----------



## brightbus

Still can't get the overclock settings for the second monitor to show up in vision control panel...at a loss lol.


----------



## Paps.pt

Guys, check what Hilbert from Guru3D says about monitor overclocking in his review of the new GTX 780. It seems that now Nvidia lets us do it in a standard way:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_780_review,4.html


----------



## brightbus

That's pretty cool. Hopefully Amd will follow suit.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

For the 100th time--

If you are wondering why games are capping at 60Hz (and you are not using CRU) you need the Catleap 2B INF or set the higher refresh (per game I believe) in NV Inspector.

And I don't see anything "new" in the G3D link above...still talks about the custom profiles that, as far as I know, every NV user is already using (when not CRU to overclock).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrostyAMD*
> 
> Ok some how I screwed up while trying to overclock. I've got a 670GTX and want to check out overclocking. Somehow I've patched my drivers and managed to overclock my dual monitor setup to 96hz on both monitors. But then I wanted to get ride of the test mode thingy and discovered itis harder than I thought. In looking back I realized I could have just used my regular drivers and the catleeap inf to accomplish my task. Will I have to clean then reionstall drivers to accomplish this simpler overclocking???


I am pretty sure you still need a driver patch ("pixel clock patcher") nor can get rid of the "test mode". Look at the overclocking section of the OP here. I am on AMD though so no personal experience doing this under NV yet.


----------



## FrostyAMD

Dang was looking for a way to overclock without showing test mode. Read and saw there was a way to remove watermark but browser will not allow needed zip to be downloaded. I tried to use the catleap.inf and evga pixel clock. But from what I've seen guess you're right.


----------



## 69cents

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> For the 100th time--
> 
> If you are wondering why games are capping at 60Hz (and you are not using CRU) you need the Catleap 2B INF or set the higher refresh (per game I believe) in NV Inspector.
> 
> And I don't see anything "new" in the G3D link above...still talks about the custom profiles that, as far as I know, every NV user is already using (when not CRU to overclock).
> I am pretty sure you still need a driver patch ("pixel clock patcher") nor can get rid of the "test mode". Look at the overclocking section of the OP here. I am on AMD though so no personal experience doing this under NV yet.


Qnix QX2710 120hz+

I just had to remove the "NV Pixel clock patcher" I installed it this morning on my GTX 670 2GB and while playing BF3 my DX11 went crazy and everything turned pink and the game crashed out to a DX11 error.

So I'm using the catleap 2b driver, test mode, 320.00 drivers and setting the refresh rate in the NV control panel and my crazy texture problem went away.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> I think me and you had a different problem. Mine was being completely crushed by the whole metal frame that you couldn't get off, so I unclipped the bottom portion and the sides. I wedged paper towels into the bottom of the monitor to keep it from sliding down and taped the frame down while exerting some pressure. That seemed to get rid of 80% of the bleeding.
> 
> I think its funny how dream-seller left a note saying the monitor was 'inspected' for any defects, yet sends me this. My advice to anyone would be *to open up the case* if you have any issues of backlight bleeding. You'll eventually find the problem through trial and error and it will make a HUGE difference


Right on. And this is essentially exactly what I said to you and guitar dude last night so nice job. Yep you really just have to open it up and figure it out for yourself as not everyones is caused by the exact same thing. Though all bleed and play problems are due to the same general issue--crappy construction and QC. These PLS panels are amazingly killer. Everything else...not as much. I don't except a ton for $300 especially given the panels themselves but still...


----------



## Gilgam3sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrostyAMD*
> 
> Dang was looking for a way to overclock without showing test mode. Read and saw there was a way to remove watermark but browser will not allow needed zip to be downloaded. I tried to use the catleap.inf and evga pixel clock. But from what I've seen guess you're right.


use this to remove watermark: http://soft2.wmzhe.com/download/deepxw/RemoveWatermark_20090509.zip


----------



## AvengerNoonZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> use this to remove watermark: http://soft2.wmzhe.com/download/deepxw/RemoveWatermark_20090509.zip


Doesn't work on Windows 8







. Do you know if there's any for W8?

Edit:

Never mind, found a working one - http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/40637-Windows-8-Watermark-Remover-Editor?p=685861&viewfull=1#post685861

I had to remove watermark > restart > remove watermark (it had another string) and now there's no more watermark.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I don't even see the watermark most of the time but depends on your background, of course.


----------



## Lazdaa

Just pulled the plug on this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111070644047?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Hopefully it will get here before my exams


----------



## Helios.be

This looks interesting. Any advice on which you guys would advice for a 30" with good OC? Which seller seems to be the most reliable in case of return policy and such?


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> oh lordy, tell me how I can score a sweet deal like that!


I was from a buddy of mine. His power supply blew up and he had to sell that card to get it. So I made a deal with him. Win win.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I am assuming a used 670...still a good deal, of course.


Yes, it's used, but still a great deal.


----------



## Coree

Does anyone have over 10+ stuck pixels? I have 11 altogether. 1 of them is visible, the other 10 are only when i'm watching the monitor within the range of 5cm. I'm just asking this, is it normal..


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Hello all, I just made this account to determine if this amount of backlight bleed is normal. My monitor came in today and I see two very bad bleed spots on the bottom with one having a yellow tint


Wow, that bleeding is 10x worse than mine. Is this with the tape mod? Also, the yellowing, I believe can be fixed with a new color profile. That's how I fixed mine.


----------



## BulletRizz

Being reading through the thread for the last few days and ordered the QNIX QX2710 Matt from BigCrolthCraft.

Does anyone know about taking out a 3 year warranty with SquareTrade for £35 or if it's worth it?

I've read about a few people enquirer about other Korean monitors but refused a warranty when inquiring since monitors may come with dead pixel but accept to provide a warranty for a pixel perfect Monitor.

but according to SquareTrades T&C
Exclusions - Your insured item is not covered for-
Repairs to LCD/Plasma televisions due to or arising from:
-unusual physical or electrical stress, burned screen or software interface problems
- pixel failure where the location or number does not exceed the manufacturer's acceptable limit
- any damage caused during delivery or installation

So if I'm right 1 dead pixel isn't an excuse to claim on the warranty, But does not allow them to casually refuse you cover


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Ordered and Paid on Monday Afternoon GMT.
> Tuesday he spent testing (as it says in the description - One Day testing iirc)
> Today Wednesday Shipped and en route to UK. (3-5 Business Days)


Thursday - Arrived at Sort Facility LEIPZIG - GERMANY

It's in Europe. That was flipping fast.








Watching it track is more exciting than playing BF3.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thursday - Arrived at Sort Facility LEIPZIG - GERMANY
> 
> It's in Europe. That was flipping fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watching it track is more exciting than playing BF3.


Mine just made it through customs and is in Ohio..


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I'm quoting myself above... this was some of the details I shared earlier.
> 
> The pictures last night turned out to dark or to blurry. But I have one picture that turned out okay that paints the picture as to what I did. To be honest I had no idea if I was doing it right since the OP has little to no detail on the tape mod. In one of the videos I see someone tape mod is done different than mine. In the video they actually got tape between the panel and the metal frame. I had trouble disconnecting the first connector and was getting tired so I gave up on removing the metal frame and just started to put tape along the edge and then turned monitor on while it was open to see how it looked and it did help so I taped the entire monitor all edges all the way around using the method in the photo. I used my finger nail to push part of the tape onto the matte screen there is about 8 pixels wide of a dead area between the panel and the frame that doesn't light up. I did all my taping with the monitor on with a blue screen so I could see where I was taping and to make sure I didn't tape over any pixels it didn't take long at all really.
> 
> Sorry I know the pictures are terrible... on the left of this picture you see how the tape is overlapping the seam slightly. This is what I did. I think you need really good electrical tape for this.
> 
> 
> I used a wad of electrical tape to put pressure under the panel in the corner. This helped the backlight bleed more than the tape mod. Most of my bleeding was because the panel frame was bowed on the middle bottom of the frame. I also put some light pressure to try to bend the frame back where I saw it was bowing. After these two steps the big trouble spots where gone.
> 
> 
> Before lighted room
> 
> 
> Before dark room
> 
> 
> After lighted room
> 
> 
> After dark room


I'm gonna have to try this later on this week.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> Wow, that bleeding is 10x worse than mine. Is this with the tape mod? Also, the yellowing, I believe can be fixed with a new color profile. That's how I fixed mine.


No the yellowing he is talking about was the bleed seeping through the image. Pre tape-mod; he already has pretty much fixed it.

By the way guys you don't need to quote every single picture in these half-page series of photos. Remove some please (or all if there is also text)...


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> someone should put this on first page
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE
> 
> it shows how to open it up and tape mod etc...
> 
> btw for those of you who can't hit 120Hz stable, just run 96Hz instead of 100,110 etc..


Why should we be running at 96 vs. 100, 100?


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> Why should we be running at 96 vs. 100, 100?


It´s a multiple of 24.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No the yellowing he is talking about was the bleed seeping through the image. Pre tape-mod; he already has pretty much fixed it.
> 
> By the way guys you don't need to quote every single picture in these half-page series of photos. Remove some please (or all if there is also text)...


I just quote out of habit. Context and all that.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> It´s a multiple of 24.


What's the purpose of it being a multiple of 24?


----------



## Anonymous Inc

Wow this thread have gone far since i last looked about a week ago. I have a issue hopefully someone can help me with, maybe it have already been answered. But anyways it's not a huge thing but every time i try and watch a video on Steam there is a complete green screen but there is sound though.

Just wondering what courses this, it also happens with some other videos, YouTube seems to be fine though have heard the problem could be the hardware acceleration option if it was YouTube but it works fine. Just everything else almost that doesn't.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thursday - Arrived at Sort Facility LEIPZIG - GERMANY
> 
> It's in Europe. That was flipping fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watching it track is more exciting than playing BF3.


Checked my voicemail and had an automated reply from DHL to pay £18.12 for customs charges. Payment was swift via their online system and I had to retain the transaction number to present to the courier which I emailed to myself for any eventualities. https://epayments.dhl.co.uk/


----------



## Pure2sin

I got mine today.

X-Star 2710 Matte from GreenSum.

Very little light bleed, no dead pixels, clocked to 120Hz within 2 minutes of turning it on.

Pictures to come.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I got mine today.
> 
> X-Star 2710 Matte from GreenSum.
> 
> Very little light bleed, no dead pixels, clocked to 120Hz within 2 minutes of turning it on.
> 
> Pictures to come.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I got mine today.
> 
> X-Star 2710 Matte from GreenSum.
> 
> Very little light bleed, no dead pixels, clocked to 120Hz within 2 minutes of turning it on.
> 
> Pictures to come.


Did ya get a tracking number? If so how long did it take for you to get it after you payed?

Also looking forward to the pics!


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> For the 100th time--
> 
> If you are wondering why games are capping at 60Hz (and you are not using CRU) you need the Catleap 2B INF or set the higher refresh (per game I believe) in NV Inspector.
> 
> And I don't see anything "new" in the G3D link above...still talks about the custom profiles that, as far as I know, every NV user is already using (when not CRU to overclock).
> I am pretty sure you still need a driver patch ("pixel clock patcher") nor can get rid of the "test mode". Look at the overclocking section of the OP here. I am on AMD though so no personal experience doing this under NV yet.


I am sorry but I dont get it. I followed the instructions, patched the driver, created personal resolution in CRU and changed it to 120Hz no Nvidia Control Panel, and indeed it sticks to 120Hz, and the mouse in windows get much smoother. But when I enter a game (Metro Last Light or Bioshock Infinite) Fraps says it never passes 60Fps.
Please help


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hmm can anyone help? I just assumed CRU would be easier and can confirm games like CS cap at 96 or 120 for me. Do you have an older game you can test just to be a little more thorough? Maybe download 3DMark 06 or something if not. The Heaven Valley bench looks amazing on these displays.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I am sorry but I dont get it. I followed the instructions, patched the driver, created personal resolution in CRU and changed it to 120Hz no Nvidia Control Panel, and indeed it sticks to 120Hz, and the mouse in windows get much smoother. But when I enter a game (Metro Last Light or Bioshock Infinite) Fraps says it never passes 60Fps.
> Please help


Do you have vsync on in those games?Do you have anyother games you can try?I know even when i turn of vsync in starcraft it stays at 60..Try running a benchmark with vsync on and see what your max fps is..If it stays at 60 then your setting in Control panel needs to be adjusted..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

True some games cap themselves. Thats why I was telling him to try something older (ideally that can also push 100+) or a bench.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> I just quote out of habit. Context and all that.


I definitely was not saying don't quote in general; such is important to make sense of the discussion. You can *edit what it is quoting* to remove some (or all) of the pictures though. It shows them as individual links; just delete.


----------



## trhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I am sorry but I dont get it. I followed the instructions, patched the driver, created personal resolution in CRU and changed it to 120Hz no Nvidia Control Panel, and indeed it sticks to 120Hz, and the mouse in windows get much smoother. But when I enter a game (Metro Last Light or Bioshock Infinite) Fraps says it never passes 60Fps.
> Please help


Did you also install catleap monitor driver? http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide

http://www.monitortests.com/catleap.zip

This enabled 60+ hz in Team Fortress 2 otherwise I get black screen.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well he was trying CRU instead which is supposed to both set the higher Hz as well as take care of making games aware, at least it does for me and plenty of others. Most NV users do not use it though I don't think.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Did ya get a tracking number? If so how long did it take for you to get it after you payed?
> 
> Also looking forward to the pics!


I only got a tracking number because I asked. But mine shipped on Tuesday and was here on Wednesday I just missed the DHL driver and had to wait until today.


----------



## munaim1

Should be ordering one tomorrow. Cant wait


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I only got a tracking number because I asked. But mine shipped on Tuesday and was here on Wednesday I just missed the DHL driver and had to wait until today.


Okay, just contacted him about the tracking number. Just waiting now.......


----------



## cor35vet

This is why you want to run a multiple of 24: (96Hz or 120Hz in our case):
From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telecine#2:3_pulldown
Quote:


> The "2:3 pulldown" telecine process creates a slight error in the video signal compared to the original film frames that can be seen in the above image. This is one reason why films viewed on typical NTSC home equipment may not appear as smooth as when viewed in a cinema and PAL home equipments. The phenomenon is particularly apparent during slow, steady camera movements which appear slightly jerky when telecined. This process is commonly referred to as telecine judder. Reversing the 2-3 pulldown telecine is discussed below.
> 
> PAL material in which 2:3 pulldown has been applied, suffers from a similar lack of smoothness, though this effect is not usually called "telecine judder". Effectively, every 12th film frame is displayed for the duration of three PAL fields (60 milliseconds), whereas the other 11 frames are each displayed for the duration of two PAL fields (40 milliseconds). This causes a slight "hiccup" in the video about twice a second. It is increasingly being referred to as Euro pulldown as it largely affects European territories.


If you don't then this happens ^^^^^^^^^^
And you really don't want judder. It's annoying as ****.
And nearly every movie, series and youtube video is 24p.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Hmm can anyone help? I just assumed CRU would be easier and can confirm games like CS cap at 96 or 120 for me. Do you have an older game you can test just to be a little more thorough? Maybe download 3DMark 06 or something if not. The Heaven Valley bench looks amazing on these displays.


I tried dirt 3, 96hz is selectable (120hz is not, I don't know why) but fraps never exceeds 60 FPS :-(


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Maybe it's related to your SLI somehow? Two bridges needed perhaps? Damn...


----------



## AirWick

Just got my Monitor. No dead pixel, light bleed from the bottom left corner. Not too bad.

btw, I got it from hulustar for 317


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AirWick*
> 
> Just got my Monitor. No dead pixel, light bleed from the bottom left corner. Not too bad.
> 
> btw, I got it from hulustar for 317


----------



## UNOE

Oddly enough I identified why I could not overclock as high with my 7970's. I thought it was because I opened the panel up. But it seems its because I started using some of the color profiles in the OP. Before I was using my own color setting in CCC. I went back to CCC color adjustments and my 120hz overclock is stable again. This might only be for AMD don't know. But if you guys are getting lines on black or dark screens with 120hz and your using windows color management. Might as well try disabling it and using CCC for color adjustment.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Oddly enough I identified why I could not overclock as high with my 7970's. I thought it was because I opened the panel up. But it seems its because I started using some of the color profiles in the OP. Before I was using my own color setting in CCC. I went back to CCC color adjustments and my 120hz overclock is stable again. This might only be for AMD don't know. But if you guys are getting lines on black or dark screens with 120hz and your using windows color management. Might as well try disabling it and using CCC for color adjustment.


I will have to remember this when i get mine..Thank you..


----------



## Paps.pt

Two questions for you owners:
- did you mess with any of the application settings in nvidia control management for the games to work at 96 or 120 frames per second?
- do you use your maximum stable Overclock daily or do you turn it on only when you game, just to be safe?


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> This is why you want to run a multiple of 24: (96Hz or 120Hz in our case):
> From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telecine#2:3_pulldown
> If you don't then this happens ^^^^^^^^^^
> And you really don't want judder. It's annoying as ****.
> And nearly every movie, series and youtube video is 24p.


Ah, I get it now. I'm at 100hz, but i'm running on an 8800 Ultra. As soon as I get my GTX670 I'll see if I can pull 120hz, but if I can't, then I'll drop it to 96hz. Frankly, and I'll be honest here, but I'm really starting to hate these standardized ratios of what is appropriate for visuals and what is not. Clearly the math is appropriate, but there has to be a better way to reproduce the smoothest visuals possible without relying on interval frame rates.


----------



## faiyez

My freight forwarder received the monitor today in FL, no delays despite the wrong address after all!

Monitor currently being airboxed to my country. I should have it by Monday once it clears customs.


----------



## pc-gamer

Im a bit at my wits end, im really getting frustrating that I cant fix this problem

Basically the OC was working for me perfectly (not at 120 because of sometimes seeing a red line) I had it at 100hz

Now I restart the monitor and everytime a black screen flashes and I know the refresh rate has been reset to 59hz in the resolution settings
shows up as 100 in Nvidia but I take no notice of that tbh

Iv tried deleting the drivers and going into safe mode and deleting everything nvidia and installing a new driver and then I try the OC again and it worked but I restart the computer and the same problem will come back

where am I going wrong









btw Im using ops method of oc


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-gamer*
> 
> Im a bit at my wits end, im really getting frustrating that I cant fix this problem
> 
> Basically the OC was working for me perfectly (not at 120 because of sometimes seeing a red line) I had it at 100hz
> 
> Now I restart the monitor and everytime a black screen flashes and I know the refresh rate has been reset to 59hz in the resolution settings
> shows up as 100 in Nvidia but I take no notice of that tbh
> 
> Iv tried deleting the drivers and going into safe mode and deleting everything nvidia and installing a new driver and then I try the OC again and it worked but I restart the computer and the same problem will come back
> 
> where am I going wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw Im using ops method of oc


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mspamed*
> 
> *Updated 20th May 8:13 AM Indian Standard Time.
> This is a super long post with details that might have nothing to do with this monitors review. I shared everything I felt was worth it.*
> 
> _*The OverClocking:*
> 
> OC'ed to 96Hz on my GTX 560. Doesn't go above 400Hz, even with the patch and CRU. It might not just be my GFX alone even my other specs are quite average.
> OC'ed to 120Hz on a borrowed GTX 680. With nVidia control panel and patched drivers. Didn't tested for anything higher, didn't got much time to play with the card.
> 
> *Update:* The reason my GTX 560 didn't went above 400MHz was that the test mode was just visible on the desktop but it was never started for some reason.
> So, these are the steps I took:
> Reinstalled the drivers.
> Patched the drivers.
> Patched the SLI limits too, just in case.
> Started the Test Mode.
> Restarted the PC.
> Created a 120 Hz custom Resolution in nVidia Control Panel and choose Automatic Timing.
> It ran perfectly smooth.
> I decided to see the highest I could go.
> I went to 130Hz it wasn't supported.
> So I changed the timing to manual and copied the information from this thread http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide
> I choose 130Hz instead of 120Hz and it was stable.
> I went to 134 and it was stable too.
> I went to 136 and started seeing one horizontal line in the center
> At 137 the Screen Jiggled vertically and the lies increased to 5 -6.
> I couldn't go higher then that.
> I am running my monitor at 134 now but its only for testing and bragging rights.
> I will run it at 60Hz normally.
> 
> ._


Try that method. I don't think test mode was really enabled even though it might say test mode on the corner of your screen.


----------



## pc-gamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Try that method. I don't think test mode was really enabled even though it might say test mode on the corner of your screen.


That has worked for me, thank you so much Coolio


----------



## nimski

Just letting you guys know that dream-seller is dishonest and will not honor *any replacement.* Before fixing my monitor I sent the pictures to dream-seller and asked if there was anything he can do or offer me a replacement. I bought a pixel-perfect version and wouldn't make such a big deal if it wasn't for the massive amounts of back light bleed I got. His response was:
Quote:


> "Hi, thank you for your message. Thank you for letting us know.
> 
> But we want to let you know that our listing clearly specified that "There could be backlight bleed or dust problem on the screen."
> 
> Plus I sent these photos to a Qnix technician for check. After examining the photos he got back to me to reply.
> His answer was as below,
> "Backlight bleed of this amount is considered normal among small and medium sized manufacturer's monitors. Since these manufacturers use 'B' grade panel, it's normal that the panel could have a little backlight bleeding and dust problem to a certain degree as well as a few defective pixels."
> 
> I understand that this kind of backlight bleeding can be disturbing especially in dark scenes, but would you please kindly understand that this is small sized manufacturer's monitor, therefore the panel is not in perfect condition? I hope for your understanding.
> Warm Regards.
> 
> - dream-seller"




I never knew a back light bleed on both sides that takes up a good portion of your monitor was normal and non-faulty, not to mention one of the bleeds was a pale yellow color. I'm just lucky I had one dead pixel compared to the other members who had several defective pixels on theirs (he never honored a replacement for them either). Managed to fix the problem because the bleeding was apparent in every single picture/film/game I threw at the monitor. It was so strong I saw white hue running halfway up the monitor to the point where I eventually disassembled the display and corrected the problem myself from the frustration

*tldr; don't buy from dream-seller*

edit: attached picture


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Just letting you guys know that dream-seller is dishonest and will not honor *any replacement.* Before fixing my monitor I sent the pictures to dream-seller and asked if there was anything he can do or offer me a replacement. His response was:
> I never knew a back light bleed on both sides that takes up a good portion of your monitor was normal, not to mention one of the bleeds was a pale yellow color. I'm just lucky I had one dead pixel compared to the other members who had several defective pixels on theirs (he never honored a replacement for them either). Managed to fix the problem because the bleeding was apparent in every single picture/film/game I threw at the monitor. It was so strong I saw white hue running halfway up the monitor to the point where I eventually disassembled the display and corrected the problem myself.
> 
> *tldr; don't buy from dream-seller*


That seems to be happening a lot with them lately. Make sure you leave them a bad review on Ebay also.. Glad you were able to fix it..


----------



## brightbus

Hulustar seems to be doing pretty good lately.


----------



## self_slaughter

I ordered mine from hulustar.
Hoping I get it today :/

Says "forwarded for delivery" as of about 11am this morning.

Please don't make me keep using my plasma TV as a monitor all weekend :'(

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## finalheaven

Decided to finally just order one as well from Hulustar.

I had my 24inch 1920x1200 since 2007 so I figure its time for an upgrade.

Does he not give a tracking number unless you pay the extra $3? (I didn't but I would like one)


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Decided to finally just order one as well from Hulustar.
> 
> I had my 24inch 1920x1200 since 2007 so I figure its time for an upgrade.
> 
> Does he not give a tracking number unless you pay the extra $3? (I didn't but I would like one)


It says that but others (including myself have gotten tracking numbers (at least to us.) I ordered on a saturday, tracking number showed up in ebay on monday, it was delievered wednesday.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Decided to finally just order one as well from Hulustar.
> 
> I had my 24inch 1920x1200 since 2007 so I figure its time for an upgrade.
> 
> Does he not give a tracking number unless you pay the extra $3? (I didn't but I would like one)


I ordered mine monday night PST.I got tracking number last night and i called DHL and they said it will be here tomorrow..And i did not pay for tracking number.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I ordered mine monday night PST.I got tracking number last night and i called DHL and they said it will be here tomorrow..And i did not pay for tracking number.


So it'll take a full 5 business days to receive the monitor if you're in CA? Guess I shouldn't expect mine until late next week?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> So it'll take a full 5 business days to receive the monitor if you're in CA? Guess I shouldn't expect mine until late next week?


Depends where you are at i guess..It looks like they go to the DSL hub in OHIO.At least my paperwork is there.Its weird it says my monitor is in OHIO but i called and they said it is not even in the States..That only my paperwork for customs was in OHIO and monitor still in Korea and it will fly straight to LA from Korea and then be at my door by 8pm tomorrow..


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-gamer*
> 
> That has worked for me, thank you so much Coolio


Credit really goes mspamed really. Glad I was able to help though.


----------



## wntrsnowg

dream-seller isn't doing too hot lately. Actually, it is the only seller with bad news I've heard of so far.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Depends where you are at i guess..It looks like they go to the DSL hub in OHIO.At least my paperwork is there.Its weird it says my monitor is in OHIO but i called and they said it is not even in the States..That only my paperwork for customs was in OHIO and monitor still in Korea and it will fly straight to LA from Korea and then be at my door by 8pm tomorrow..


I live very close to you so I imagine the process will be exactly the same. Thought the free trade agreement would get rid of all the paperwork and taxes?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I live very close to you so I imagine the process will be exactly the same. Thought the free trade agreement would get rid of all the paperwork and taxes?


I had zero taxes or custom fees..But they still check out all the paperwork..


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I had zero taxes or custom fees..But they still check out all the paperwork..


Is it purely luck whether we get 0 dead pixels and low back light bleed?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Depends where you are at i guess..It looks like they go to the DSL hub in OHIO.At least my paperwork is there.Its weird it says my monitor is in OHIO but i called and they said it is not even in the States..That only my paperwork for customs was in OHIO and monitor still in Korea and it will fly straight to LA from Korea and then be at my door by 8pm tomorrow..


Mine came from Fedex. Seems to be just as fast either way. But Fedex would never tell me what day it would be here the whole time they said with 5 days and gave me a date that was the week after it actually delivered.
Hoping you get it tomorrow enjoy.


----------



## finalheaven

Hmm.. I have gotten a tracking number in less than an hour from my order.. not sure if that's a good or a bad thing


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> dream-seller isn't doing too hot lately. Actually, it is the only seller with bad news I've heard of so far.


should we call him nightmares-seller?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Hmm.. I have gotten a tracking number in less than an hour from my order.. not sure if that's a good or a bad thing


Seems some shippers don't ship every day. Some sellers wait a few days to get enough orders to ship. So I think you are in good shape. You must of ordered while they where already in the process of getting orders ready to ship. Now if someone ordered from that same seller now they might not get a tracking number till Monday. In theory at less. I had my monitor 36 hours after I got the tacking number.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Is it purely luck whether we get 0 dead pixels and low back light bleed?


pretty much..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> should we call him nightmares-seller?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Hmm.. I have gotten a tracking number in less than an hour from my order.. not sure if that's a good or a bad thing


Which monitor did you order from hulustar?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Which monitor did you order from hulustar?


Same one as yours exactly


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Same one as yours exactly


Who is tracking number from?DHL?If thats the case you should have it buy wednesday cause monday is holiday..


----------



## AirWick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*


Got happy too quick, after carefully checking it, there is one dead pixel on the top right, but I sit like 2 ft away so I can't even see it. Also, the screen was like a quarter inch below the frame. Plus, the frame was sticking away from the screen, especially the bottom. There's a huge gap between the screen and the frame. There is also a small gap between the left and right side.

Decided to open it and tried to fix some of the problem. The tape around the metal frame didn't do anything with the light bleed. Using 3 pieces of tape from the back panel helped with the gap, especially the left and right side, but the bottom, there's still a gap, but not as wide as before.

Was able to fix the screen position along the frame. I guess the screen fell a quarter inch during shipping. I did not had to put tape on the bottom to lift the screen.

btw, I can overclock to 120hz but there's a dark cloud from top to bottom on the right side. Right now, I got it at 96hz.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Who is tracking number from?DHL?If thats the case you should have it buy wednesday cause monday is holiday..


Yea DHL tracking #. Hopefully ours will have this sticker even though we didn't pay for it.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AirWick*
> 
> Got happy too quick, after carefully checking it, there is one dead pixel on the top right, but I sit like 2 ft away so I can't even see it. Also, the screen was like a quarter inch below the frame. Plus, the frame was sticking away from the screen, especially the bottom. There's a huge gap between the screen and the frame. There is also a small gap between the left and right side.
> 
> Decided to open it and tried to fix some of the problem. The tape around the metal frame didn't do anything with the light bleed. Using 3 pieces of tape from the back panel helped with the gap, especially the left and right side, but the bottom, there's still a gap, but not as wide as before.
> 
> Was able to fix the screen position along the frame. I guess the screen fell a quarter inch during shipping. I did not had to put tape on the bottom to lift the screen.
> 
> btw, I can overclock to 120hz but there's a dark cloud from top to bottom on the right side. Right now, I got it at 96hz.


How does it look at 96hz?


----------



## AirWick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> So it'll take a full 5 business days to receive the monitor if you're in CA? Guess I shouldn't expect mine until late next week?


I'm from Cali. I got it in 4 days. Ordered on Sunday, was shipped on Monday, expected to be deliver on Wednesday, but those lazy bastard at DHL waited till the next day to deliver it. So basically, 3 days from SK to CA.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Yea DHL tracking #. Hopefully ours will have this sticker even though we didn't pay for it.


I will be happy just to get a good condition monitor..









But that would be nice..


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AirWick*
> 
> I'm from Cali. I got it in 4 days. Ordered on Sunday, was shipped on Monday, expected to be deliver on Wednesday, but those lazy bastard at DHL waited till the next day to deliver it. So basically, 3 days from SK to CA.


Sadly I have the weekend in the way.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I will be happy just to get a good condition monitor..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that would be nice..


Yea, honestly, I don't really care about 2 dead pixels. I'd rather have no back light bleed.


----------



## falco216

How can I check if my monitor is glossy or matte? I ordered a glossy from Dream-Seller but I'm pretty sure he sent me a matte one.


----------



## AirWick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> How does it look at 96hz?


On a gray screen. You can tell it's there, but it's really light. Switching to other colors, you can't tell it's there. If I switch to 60hz. It's gone.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falco216*
> 
> How can I check if my monitor is glossy or matte? I ordered a glossy from Dream-Seller but I'm pretty sure he sent me a matte one.


It should be like glass screen if glossy..If matte it will be glare free..


----------



## falco216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> It should be like glass screen if glossy..If matte it will be glare free..


It has a bit of glare / reflection when displaying black or when it's off, other that that I can't see any glare at all. Will the panel feel different if it's glossy or matte? The panel feels hard and has a distinct sound of tapping plastic if I tap it.


----------



## OneGun

Watch this review as this one is glossy..


----------



## Paramount

^^^ its not 2710 series.. its IPS


----------



## OneGun

My bad. But he shows the glossy aspect..


----------



## self_slaughter

Damn gotta keep waiting for mine. DHL decided to hand it off to Australia post for the last leg.

Tracking was great too until they got it, now no one knows where it is so I can't even collect it myself.

2 days to get from Korea to Perth, now even though it was like half an hour away from me I'm Gunna have to wait another 3-5 days :/

Such is life...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> Damn gotta keep waiting for mine. DHL decided to hand it off to Australia post for the last leg.
> 
> Tracking was great too until they got it, now no one knows where it is so I can't even collect it myself.
> 
> 2 days to get from Korea to Perth, now even though it was like half an hour away from me I'm Gunna have to wait another 3-5 days :/
> 
> Such is life...
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


That socks..


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Try that method. I don't think test mode was really enabled even though it might say test mode on the corner of your screen.


What does he mean "Patched the SLI limits too, just in case" ?
Can that be the problem with me getting to 96 or 120Hz in Windows but the framerate in games not passing 60fps?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Two questions for you owners:
> - did you mess with any of the application settings in nvidia control management for the games to work at 96 or 120 frames per second?
> - do you use your maximum stable Overclock daily or do you turn it on only when you game, just to be safe?


I kindly ask if you guys could answer this questions. Simple yes or no will do

I am sorry to bother you with this issues I am having...my main purpose with this upgrade from two GTX 570 and 21´´ CRT 1600x1200p @100Hz to two GTX 670 and this monitor is play games at 1440p but mantaining a high frame-rate/refresh-rate...I dont really care with having the windows and mouse movement very smooth, what I really like is to game!









Thanks


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> This is why you want to run a multiple of 24: (96Hz or 120Hz in our case):
> From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telecine#2:3_pulldown
> If you don't then this happens ^^^^^^^^^^
> And you really don't want judder. It's annoying as ****.
> And nearly every movie, series and youtube video is 24p.


Depends whether you watch stuff on your monitor though. Personally I don't so mine is at 110Hz (can't quite get to 120Hz unfortunately) so it's not completely true that everyone should run a multiple of 24.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> - do you use your maximum stable Overclock daily or do you turn it on only when you game, just to be safe?


I run it at 60Hz normally and only OC when I game, don't really care about more mouse trails. Switching between profiles is pretty painless, I can switch between 60Hz and 110Hz using hotkeys in CCC, switch colour profiles in a couple of clicks and there's only 1 click of brightness between them.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I am sorry to bother you with this issues I am having...my main purpose with this upgrade from two GTX 570 and 21´´ CRT 1600x1200p @100Hz to two GTX 670 and this monitor is play games at 1440p but mantaining a high frame-rate/refresh-rate...I dont really care with having the windows and mouse movement very smooth, what I really like is to game!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Wouldn't you rather wan't to wait for the 7xx series cards to be out? The 780 is already out, and the 770 should be out in early June.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> What does he mean "Patched the SLI limits too, just in case" ?
> Can that be the problem with me getting to 96 or 120Hz in Windows but the framerate in games not passing 60fps?
> I kindly ask if you guys could answer this questions. Simple yes or no will do
> 
> I am sorry to bother you with this issues I am having...my main purpose with this upgrade from two GTX 570 and 21´´ CRT 1600x1200p @100Hz to two GTX 670 and this monitor is play games at 1440p but mantaining a high frame-rate/refresh-rate...I dont really care with having the windows and mouse movement very smooth, what I really like is to game!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


did you download this?
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Wouldn't you rather wan't to wait for the 7xx series cards to be out? The 780 is already out, and the 770 should be out in early June.


No, I already bougth two GTX 670 last week for 300€ each, and they are already under water with the "Nvidia The Mod" procedure. Now I just have to sell my two GTX 570.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> did you download this?
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


Yes, follow the instructions for SLI users and used the "full" exe.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> did you download this?
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


Tried that using the latest NV drivers 320.18 WHQL and my card doesn't get recognized after. Is there a certain driver that you need to use?


----------



## damianzmd

hey guys i've got a little bit of back light bleeding at the bottom left toward the center. is there a way to fix this by taking it apart?


----------



## un-nefer

In the OP there is a link to a tape mod for some backlight bleed problems.


----------



## damianzmd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> In the OP there is a link to a tape mod for some backlight bleed problems.


there is, but it seems incomplete and skips some instructions... been trying to find some tutorials. anyone?


----------



## Gilgam3sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damianzmd*
> 
> there is, but it seems incomplete and skips some instructions... been trying to find some tutorials. anyone?


here you have tutorial...

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Tried that using the latest NV drivers 320.18 WHQL and my card doesn't get recognized after. Is there a certain driver that you need to use?


Am I right assuming that only 320.14 WHQL and loiwer will work with ToastX patch?


----------



## TesseractOrion

Update: Had ordered a glossy Qnix from Dreamseller (







yeah I know) got it pretty quick here in UK via Fedex (a couple of weeks ago actually).

Fedex has just sent me bill for £48.81 which wasn't as bad as I feared (VAT is 20% here).

Good screen, zero stuck/bad pixels, moderate BLB on bottom, stand not as wobbly as my Catleap. Just praying it doesn't go wrong cos I don't want to deal with Dreamseller by all accounts)!

Oh I asked him to mark down value and as gift but he replied (promptly) that he couldn't do that and I respect his scrupulousness









So, £245 all told, less than half of what the Catleap 2B cost


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah; DS is not a guaranteed mistake but generally seems those of his that have issues seem to have *issues*. Moreover, he also seems a lot less willing to work with/help out the buyer as some if not many of the others as evidenced further by his refusal to mark it down. Yes, it's not something he _has_ to do but Hulustar, for example, went ahead and offered (though I did not need).

Glad it worked out for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> here you have tutorial...
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE


Yes these are pretty much what I have been waiting for in order to ideally have more info before I attempt mine. Helpful to see him actually release the clips (the sound made me cringe though lol).

I have PM'd the thread owner to add to OP.


----------



## Gilgam3sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah; DS is not a guaranteed mistake but generally seems those of his that have issues seem to have *issues*. Moreover, he also seems a lot less willing to work with/help out the buyer as some if not many of the others as evidenced further by his refusal to mark it down. Yes, it's not something he _has_ to do but Hulustar, for example, went ahead and offered (though I did not need).
> 
> Glad it worked out for you.
> Yes these are pretty much what I have been waiting for in order to ideally have more info before I attempt mine. Helpful to see him actually release the clips (the sound made me cringe though lol).
> 
> I have PM'd the thread owner to add to OP.


it's already in the first post if you look under "Detailed videos on opening the monitor, case internals"


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh, oops. Dude said the section was still light on specifics so I assumed not.


----------



## majnu

Right I managed to get 120Hz



But I get faint red horizontal lines when not in desktop. Is this a cable issue?

Also after I've copied over the custom resolution and rebooted, should I disable test mode, or does that need to run all the time?

Thanks


----------



## Gilgam3sh

just run it at 96Hz


----------



## wrigleyvillain

And, no, Test Mode must remain.


----------



## DeadGivaway

Paps, and anyone else trying to force games to higher refresh rates, see the last part of my post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1520#post_20000275


----------



## OneGun

Got it and it is absolutely perfect...No dead pixels and just a tad of backlight bleed to the left of the Qnix name in the middle bottom..Getting ready to OC it..

96hz with no issues going for more..









120 works flawless..But i definitely notice the darker picture ..

Hulustar did it again and i am very happy with this monitor..Best $317 i have ever spent..


----------



## AirWick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Got it and it is absolutely perfect...No dead pixels and just a tad of backlight bleed to the left of the Qnix name in the middle bottom..Getting ready to OC it..
> 
> 96hz with no issues going for more..










You planning to fix the light bleed? I tried doing the tape around the metal frame for my light bleed but it didn't help.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AirWick*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You planning to fix the light bleed? I tried doing the tape around the metal frame for my light bleed but it didn't help.


It is so minimal i am not messing with it..Plus i only have only 1 arm so i don't want to risk it..


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Paps, and anyone else trying to force games to higher refresh rates, see the last part of my post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1520#post_20000275


Thanks man, really, I will try it when I get home ;-) +rep


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Thanks man, really, I will try it when I get home ;-) +rep


I just got mine but haven't gamed on it yet. I will see if I have the problem you are having.. I will let you know..


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Got it and it is absolutely perfect...No dead pixels and just a tad of backlight bleed to the left of the Qnix name in the middle bottom..Getting ready to OC it..
> 
> 96hz with no issues going for more..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 120 works flawless..But i definitely notice the darker picture ..
> 
> Hulustar did it again and i am very happy with this monitor..Best $317 i have ever spent..


Awesome man! I hope mine is as good as yours.

How long did it take for you to receive it after the tracking said "Departed Facility in INCHEON"? And does DHL deliver on saturdays?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Awesome man! I hope mine is as good as yours.
> 
> How long did it take for you to receive it after the tracking said "Departed Facility in INCHEON"? And does DHL deliver on saturdays?


My monitor was picked up Wednesday at 11:51 pm put and I got it today around 11ish..so once DHL picks it up its about 36hrs.And I don't think they deliver on Saturday unless the seller paid extra..


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> My monitor was picked up Wednesday at 11:51 pm put and I got it today around 11ish..so once DHL picks it up its about 36hrs.


You mean picked up as in the first entry in the DHL tracking page? So in South Korea local time?


----------



## OneGun

Yes I mean first picked up. Mine was picked up at 3:51 Korea time on the 23rd or 11:51pst on the 22nd.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I just got mine but haven't gamed on it yet. I will see if I have the problem you are having.. I will let you know..


Thank you too m8. Please do.
Cheers


----------



## Jboss

So i got my Monoprice 24 AWG 6 ft Dual link DVI and it did not help in getting better OC results. I'm using a HD 5850, so it's probably bottlenecking the OC IMO.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AirWick*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You planning to fix the light bleed? I tried doing the tape around the metal frame for my light bleed but it didn't help.


Did you overlap the tape so part of it is sticking to screen edge. Or just taped the frame ?
If yes then you probably have a frame that is too tight or you might have to shim the panel in one or two spots to make the panel straight.


----------



## OneGun

Just played a round of BF3 at 96hz and it was amazing...









I am trying these color profiles but alot don't say how high the brightness needs to be..Does anyone know?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> So i got my Monoprice 24 AWG 6 ft Dual link DVI and it did not help in getting better OC results. I'm using a HD 5850, so it's probably bottlenecking the OC IMO.


5850 isn't powerful enough to O/C the monitor? What is the highest refresh rate you have gotten with it?


----------



## Paps.pt

Guys, check this explanation of the difference between this monitor at 60 and 120hz and a TN 120hz with light boost, very good post indeed :

http://www.overclock.net/t/1393854/best-currently-available-120hz-monitor-for-gaming/0_50#post_20037716


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Guys, check this explanation of the difference between this monitor at 60 and 120hz and a TN 120hz with light boost, very good post indeed :
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1393854/best-currently-available-120hz-monitor-for-gaming/0_50#post_20037716


I just went on there and gave that guy my two cents for saying Korean junk..


----------



## LarsMarkelson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Just played a round of BF3 at 96hz and it was amazing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am trying these color profiles but alot don't say how high the brightness needs to be..Does anyone know?


I feel like 96hz doesn't darken as much as 120hz. At least that's how it is on mine.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LarsMarkelson*
> 
> I feel like 96hz doesn't darken as much as 120hz. At least that's how it is on mine.


For sure..But it does darkrn still on mine..But 120 is gets pretty dark.Have you tried any color profiles?


----------



## UNCMan

Just got my monitor all set up!

Looks beautiful! Sunlight does nothing to this







(Matte version). I overclocked it to 96Hz without problem but I don't think I'll worry about 120. I got mine off Amazon. Why do most people go through Ebay with this?

One other question: Why do we worry about OCing this so much? Why can't other monitors do this?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNCMan*
> 
> Just got my monitor all set up!
> 
> Looks beautiful! Sunlight does nothing to this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Matte version). I overclocked it to 96Hz without problem but I don't think I'll worry about 120. I got mine off Amazon. Why do most people go through Ebay with this?
> 
> One other question: Why do we worry about OCing this so much? Why can't other monitors do this?


the reason we oc them is because we can lol.. Most monitors will oc but my 1440p monoprice frame skips with any thing over 60hz.If you play games then you know more fps is better due to less input lag. Plus everything is so much smoother..


----------



## finalheaven

OneGun: you said the update in Ohio, doesn't mean the monitor was ever in Ohio, its just where the customs got cleared? I got an update in Ohio


----------



## OneGun

I sent you a pm..


----------



## LarsMarkelson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> For sure..But it does darkrn still on mine..But 120 is gets pretty dark.Have you tried any color profiles?


Haven't yet, but want to start experimenting with it. I'm running 118hz on mine right now and it's definitely darker.


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I am trying these color profiles but alot don't say how high the brightness needs to be..Does anyone know?


Depends on your ambient light. On my monitor at 96Hz, 11 clicks from bottom gives 120cd/m2 (dark room), 14 clicks gives 150cd/m2 (medium) and 17 clicks gives 180cd/m2 (bright room with sunlight). Btw there's 30 clicks of brightness from min to max.


----------



## faiyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNCMan*
> 
> I overclocked it to 96Hz without problem
> 
> One other question: Why do we worry about OCing this so much? Why can't other monitors do this?


I like how you overclocked yours without really knowing why lol


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNCMan*
> 
> Just got my monitor all set up!
> 
> Looks beautiful! Sunlight does nothing to this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Matte version). I overclocked it to 96Hz without problem but I don't think I'll worry about 120. I got mine off Amazon. Why do most people go through Ebay with this?
> 
> One other question: Why do we worry about OCing this so much? Why can't other monitors do this?


I went through Amazon the first time, and had a bad experiece with the shipping, which is why I ordered my second one through ebay. Also you can get a warranty through squaretrade if you buy on ebay as well.


----------



## OneGun

The only thing i don't like about this monitor is when you turn it off it still has a red light..But a piece of tape can fix that


----------



## DeadGivaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Just played a round of BF3 at 96hz and it was amazing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am trying these color profiles but alot don't say how high the brightness needs to be..Does anyone know?


Go here: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php
Adjust brightness until you can just barely see each rectangle under the "1"

Optionally, check the other pages on there to make sure the profile you're using is giving good results.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Go here: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php
> Adjust brightness until you can just barely see each rectangle under the "1"
> 
> Optionally, check the other pages on there to make sure the profile you're using is giving good results.


Will do thank you sir..


----------



## AirWick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Did you overlap the tape so part of it is sticking to screen edge. Or just taped the frame ?
> If yes then you probably have a frame that is too tight or you might have to shim the panel in one or two spots to make the panel straight.


I taped the frame like how that guy did his in the youtube video where he cover it from one side to the other side. I also tried doing what you did when you posted earlier, typing along the back of the screen. What do you mean by shim the panel? Can you dummified that?

If the frame is tight, how do I fix that? From what I see, the metal frame isn't straight through. There are gaps between the metal frame and the screen.

Maybe I should of took some pic. I already opened it like 5 times already, lol


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Go here: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php
> Adjust brightness until you can just barely see each rectangle under the "1"
> 
> Optionally, check the other pages on there to make sure the profile you're using is giving good results.


Did that in 96Hz with a color profile I got in the first post but have to be in maximum brigthness to barely see the 1st rectangle. Which profile are you guys using for 96Hz? this one has the white a bit redish: "color-munki-96hz"

EDIT: tried MenacingTuba color profile and it´s better now


----------



## UNCMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faiyez*
> 
> I like how you overclocked yours without really knowing why lol


I was really asking about THIS monitor. I mean I know better refresh is better yada yada but this was the first time I've seen people jump on a monitor for OC reasons and I wanted to know why this one in particular.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Did that in 96Hz with a color profile I got in the first post but have to be in maximum brigthness to barely see the 1st rectangle. Which profile are you guys using for 96Hz? this one has the white a bit redish: "color-munki-96hz"
> 
> EDIT: tried MenacingTuba color profile and it´s better now


I like the second one down but its a 60hz profile..The one with the date of 4-19-13..Also with that profile i am at 17 clicks up from the bottom..All other ones were to red for my liking..


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNCMan*
> 
> I was really asking about THIS monitor. I mean I know better refresh is better yada yada but this was the first time I've seen people jump on a monitor for OC reasons and I wanted to know why this one in particular.


Because the last monitors that you could OC well from Korea was the Catleap 2b.And once everyone found out it drove the prices up to around $800..So everyone is jumping on these while they are still $300..At least thats why i bought one..


----------



## OneGun

Can you add me to club please..I sent my App also..
Thank you


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadGivaway*
> 
> Paps, and anyone else trying to force games to higher refresh rates, see the last part of my post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1520#post_20000275


Tried that, metro and dirt 3 keep maxing frames at 60fps with vsync on. I dont get it


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Do you own Counter Strike? Everyone owns Counter Strike. Try that. If that still doesn't cap at 96 or 120 in the Graphics Stress Test then you definitely must have a monitor OC problem. If it does cap to your refresh then just stop worrying about those particular games.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Tried that, metro and dirt 3 keep maxing frames at 60fps with vsync on. I dont get it


I had this issue as well with some games. You to play around with the vsync settings. Like with shadowrun i had to use the in game vsync setting vs the global driver vsync. Skyrim was the exact opposite. Dead space required ALL vsync to be off and the resolution set to [email protected] before it would go above 60hz and after it got WAY smoother indicating it worked.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Do you own Counter Strike? Everyone owns Counter Strike. Try that. If that still doesn't cap at 96 or 120 in the Graphics Stress Test then you definitely must have a monitor OC problem. If it does cap to your refresh then just stop worrying about those particular games.


I do not own a 14 year old game. Would counterstrike source work?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I do not own a 14 year old game. Would counterstrike source work?


LOL i don't own couterstrike either. Man and i was hoping to be part of everyone









Joking


----------



## Paps.pt

Ok, I tried Heaven benchmark with VSync on and indeed Fraps says I am at 96FPS!








This means the problem is individual games...I never tried VSync except within games so maybe I can do what Spartan F8 said. Do I have to go to Nvidia Control Panel -> Aplication Settings and individually decide I want VSync on for each game, is that it?
Once again thanks for the patience guys.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Ok, I tried Heaven benchmark with VSync on and indeed Fraps says I am at 96FPS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This means the problem is individual games...I never tried VSync except within games so maybe I can do what Spartan F8 said. Do I have to go to Nvidia Control Panel -> Aplication Settings and individually decide I want VSync on for each game, is that it?
> Once again thanks for the patience guys.


Yes sir

You can set preferences in the 3D settings individually for each game so you won't have to set it every time once you find a vsync setting that works (in game VS driver level).









And also driver level is going to be better if you find it works both ways for any given game UNLESS the game supports triple buffering in game.


----------



## OneGun

Hey dascth thank you for the profiles..


----------



## OneGun

Well i tried to turn off test mode and i restarted and my drivers where gone and my screen went to like a 800by600 resolution..


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Well i tried to turn off test mode and i restarted and my drivers where gone and my screen went to like a 800by600 resolution..


Drivers aren't gone...they just haven't started due to being patched. WHich is why you need testmode on to let them start. You have to unpatch them to have them work without testmode. But then you lose OCIng on the monitor.


----------



## sb62

I did that and got BSOD. Learned quickly to un-patch drivers first.


----------



## mikekink

I can OC on stock NVidia drivers but only up to 99hz, any higher and the test fails. Didn't want the hassle with test mode and 96hz is good enough at the moment.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> Drivers aren't gone...they just haven't started due to being patched. WHich is why you need testmode on to let them start. You have to unpatch them to have them work without testmode. But then you lose OCIng on the monitor.


Ahh got it.Thank you
Do you guys just use the stock DVI cables and power brick?Or should i buy new ones?


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ahh got it.Thank you
> Do you guys just use the stock DVI cables and power brick?Or should i buy new ones?


I use the stock power brick but just changed the power plug cable to a spare power supply cable I had laying around so I didn't have to use a plug adapter, used the stock dvi cable and didn't have any issues with 120hz but changed to a 24awg cable anyways, specifically the Comprehensive Cable X3V-DVI6.


----------



## Jinru

First person to PM me gets a 30% off Square Trade coupon. It's only good for today (24th). So there's little time left. If you've purchased a Qnix/X-Star within the past 30 days but haven't gotten a warranty yet, you can get it now for $35.

edit: gone


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> First person to PM me gets a 30% off Square Trade coupon. It's only good for today (24th). So there's little time left. If you've purchased a Qnix/X-Star within the past 30 days but haven't gotten a warranty yet, you can get it now for $35.


Thats cool man..2 bad i already bought mine for $49


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> First person to PM me gets a 30% off Square Trade coupon. It's only good for today (24th). So there's little time left. If you've purchased a Qnix/X-Star within the past 30 days but haven't gotten a warranty yet, you can get it now for $35.
> 
> edit: gone


Thanks Jinru! just gave you a REP+!


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AirWick*
> 
> I taped the frame like how that guy did his in the youtube video where he cover it from one side to the other side. I also tried doing what you did when you posted earlier, typing along the back of the screen. What do you mean by shim the panel? Can you dummified that?
> 
> If the frame is tight, how do I fix that? From what I see, the metal frame isn't straight through. There are gaps between the metal frame and the screen.
> 
> Maybe I should of took some pic. I already opened it like 5 times already, lol


I taped the top of the screen all the way to the first view able pixels. If you turn the screen on while its open you will see about a 8 pixel boarder all the way around the screen I put tape on the frame and overlapped it onto this boarder.
by shim I mean I just put something to elevate one corner to put pressure on the corner. I noticed with pressure on that corner pushing toward the viewing side of the screen in that corner the light bleed went away. I was also able to tell that the frame is bent by looking at the side of the frame.
If your looking at frame to for bent spots from the top your looking at the wrong spot the gaps don't give that much bleed. But those gaps your seeing between the frame and the matte screen do give of a little light. But it effects a few pixels from the boarder. But if you did the tape mod like I said to do then you would be taping over those gaps.

But most of the bleed people complain about is frame issue, frame is bent or too tight. When you see the huge spots that are 100 pixels deep into the display those spots are from the frame. So you need to bend the panel in the right spots to get it right. With my monitor pushing on it before I opened it did nothing. Soon as I got it open I moved the panel and could tell right away what was causing light bleed. But the best way to identify this is with the screen on and open. So open it up turn it on with a black screen and be careful what you touch and start lifting corners lightly and see what it does to the backlight then shim it when you see the problems spots.

@onegun you must be excited your double posting like crazy


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I taped the top of the screen all the way to the first view able pixels. If you turn the screen on while its open you will see about a 8 pixel boarder all the way around the screen I put tape on the frame and overlapped it onto this boarder.
> by shim I mean I just put something to elevate one corner to put pressure on the corner. I noticed with pressure on that corner pushing toward the viewing side of the screen in that corner the light bleed went away. I was also able to tell that the frame is bent by looking at the side of the frame.
> If your looking at frame to for bent spots from the top your looking at the wrong spot the gaps don't give that much bleed. But those gaps your seeing between the frame and the matte screen do give of a little light. But it effects a few pixels from the boarder. But if you did the tape mod like I said to do then you would be taping over those gaps.
> 
> But most of the bleed people complain about is frame issue, frame is bent or too tight. When you see the huge spots that are 100 pixels deep into the display those spots are from the frame. So you need to bend the panel in the right spots to get it right. With my monitor pushing on it before I opened it did nothing. Soon as I got it open I moved the panel and could tell right away what was causing light bleed. But the best way to identify this is with the screen on and open. So open it up turn it on with a black screen and be careful what you touch and start lifting corners lightly and see what it does to the backlight then shim it when you see the problems spots.
> 
> @onegun you must be excited your double posting like crazy


I love this monitor...I kinda feel like this..


----------



## UNOE

Well sadly I seem to be able to confirm that one crossfire bridge just doesn't cut it for this monitor with pixel clock above 390mhz. I'm really hoping to see more people test this out. Its just laggy with trifire or crossfire one bridge at higher refresh rate. When I have two bridges then everything is good. Oddly enough is some games will crash on laod screen without two bridges installed, so people take note if anyone is having games crashing on start up or when you apply 120hz then consider using two bridges.
This really goes against all logic I previously would have had about how crossfire works. The reason I'm sad is now my third GPU is useless unless I bump it down to 60hz and I don't need three GPU's for 60hz.

You guys with two bridges installed already can you try to do more testing with one bridge vs. two bridges @ high refresh rates. Just so we can get more feedback about this ?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Well sadly I seem to be able to confirm that one crossfire bridge just doesn't cut it for this monitor with pixel clock above 390mhz. I'm really hoping to see more people test this out. Its just laggy with trifire or crossfire one bridge at higher refresh rate. When I have two bridges then everything is good. Oddly enough is some games will crash on laod screen without two bridges installed, so people take note if anyone is having games crashing on start up or when you apply 120hz then consider using two bridges.
> This really goes against all logic I previously would have had about how crossfire works. The reason I'm sad is now my third GPU is useless unless I bump it down to 60hz and I don't need three GPU's for 60hz.
> 
> You guys with two bridges installed already can you try to do more testing with one bridge vs. two bridges @ high refresh rates. Just so we can get more feedback about this ?


I'm sure there are many people willing to take a 7970 off your hands


----------



## fake13371

Quote:


> While overclocking my X-star DP2710 I seem to get LCD burn in/image retention temporarily. It goes away after a couple of minutes and is most clearly seen on grey backgrounds, and to some extent blue-ish colors. It's not visible whatsoever on for example black, white or red backgrounds. The burn in doesn't seem appear at all when running the monitor on 60hz, at least not within an hour or so as opposed to 96hz or above.
> 
> Any explanation for this? Any way to prevent it from happening?


Reposting this.

Furthermore I noticed that it's only visible in the top right corner of the panel, the rest of the panel get no burn in/retention.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fake13371*
> 
> Reposting this.


I get a faint amount of retention but it goes away very quickly, and doesn't seem to affect games at all. I run my desktop @ 96hz and games at 120hz. I don't think anyone has any way to stop it, but it also shouldn't be harmful at all.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> 5850 isn't powerful enough to O/C the monitor? What is the highest refresh rate you have gotten with it?


It is but probably not over 110+?
I got up to 105 hz or 110 hz i forget but i'm currently only using 96 hz.


----------



## topthis

Someone please help I'm going insane...I've been forum stalking and researching endlessly. I'm deciding between yamakasi and Qnix basically the PLS VS IPS scenario. I need some questions answered and will be very much appreciated!

1) Differences between IPS and PLS? (why is one better than the other if that?)
2) What looks better IPS or PLS?
3) For reliability on overclocking, is there any issues that can come out of it?
4)Is this true 120hz or is it verified 120hz as in the monitor can refresh at 120 and all but other components can't keep up leaving some motion blur etc.
5)Matte vs glossy...just some personal insight on either as i heard the qnix has a semi glossy (matte) and doesn't take much away from the screen. So basically how do they compare in picture quality + opinion.

Thanks! I might have more questions to.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> Someone please help I'm going insane...I've been forum stalking and researching endlessly. I'm deciding between yamakasi and Qnix basically the PLS VS IPS scenario. I need some questions answered and will be very much appreciated!
> 
> 1) Differences between IPS and PLS? (why is one better than the other if that?)
> 2) What looks better IPS or PLS?
> 3) For reliability on overclocking, is there any issues that can come out of it?
> 4)Is this true 120hz or is it verified 120hz as in the monitor can refresh at 120 and all but other components can't keep up leaving some motion blur etc.
> 5)Matte vs glossy...just some personal insight on either as i heard the qnix has a semi glossy (matte) and doesn't take much away from the screen. So basically how do they compare in picture quality + opinion.
> 
> Thanks! I might have more questions to.


1.IPS is made by LG and PLS is made by Samsung...They are both pretty much the same thing..Samsung used a different name and tried to improve on ips a little..
2.They look pretty much the same to me..I have 1 of each right now..
3.No real issues as long as you don't over do it..I just got my Qnix today and its amazing..
4.I don't know how you would consider it..I can for sure tell the difference in gaming and even in just dragging around windows..
5.I have a glossy and a matte and i am sending back my glossy Monoprice.My new one is matte..I think when reading text in a dark room glossy just looks sharper.But if there is alot of light in a room then it distracts you from whats on the screen..I personally love this new matte Qnix..


----------



## OneGun

This sucks as i can no longer watch movies all i get is a black screen..Anyone know how to fix this?I tried Toasty's fix but it does not work..


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yes sir
> 
> You can set preferences in the 3D settings individually for each game so you won't have to set it every time once you find a vsync setting that works (in game VS driver level).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also driver level is going to be better if you find it works both ways for any given game UNLESS the game supports triple buffering in game.


I have several options regarding Vertical Sync in Nvidia Control Panel (active, adaptive, smooth...), which one is best, in your opinion?

EDIT: Been playing Metro Last Light in 1400p very high settings and it´s very very good looking, the creppy ambient gets even scarier with such level of detail. Now I cannot decide if I prefer playing like this or in 3D Vision on my 100 inch 720p projection screen...the 3D is great and with 4x AA we can improve the low resolution but I really like to play in 1440p in this monitor


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I have several options regarding Vertical Sync in Nvidia Control Panel (active, adaptive, smooth...), which one is best, in your opinion?
> 
> EDIT: Been playing Metro Last Light in 1400p very high settings and it´s very very good looking, the creppy ambient gets even scarier with such level of detail. Now I cannot decide if I prefer playing like this or in 3D Vision on my 100 inch 720p projection screen...the 3D is great and with 4x AA we can improve the low resolution but I really like to play in 1440p in this monitor


Keep both mate. Metro LL in 3D is outstanding, probably one of the best 3D games. Imagine if these panels did 3D, I'd be jumping up and down from my chair right now.









Do you apply SSAA in 1440p? I've turned it off personally as I don't think it needs it.


----------



## Paps.pt

Yes, I also dont use it


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> This sucks as i can no longer wates all i get is a black screen..Anyone know how to fix this?I tried Toasty's fix but it does not work..


Is it a software or hardware problem?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Well sadly I seem to be able to confirm that one crossfire bridge just doesn't cut it for this monitor with pixel clock above 390mhz. I'm really hoping to see more people test this out. Its just laggy with trifire or crossfire one bridge at higher refresh rate. When I have two bridges then everything is good. Oddly enough is some games will crash on laod screen without two bridges installed, so people take note if anyone is having games crashing on start up or when you apply 120hz then consider using two bridges.
> This really goes against all logic I previously would have had about how crossfire works. The reason I'm sad is now my third GPU is useless unless I bump it down to 60hz and I don't need three GPU's for 60hz.
> 
> You guys with two bridges installed already can you try to do more testing with one bridge vs. two bridges @ high refresh rates. Just so we can get more feedback about this ?


It's required for crossfire and [email protected] in my experience, I was the first one to find this out, it took me literally 12+ hours of testing until I realized it needed two bridges, I posted about it multiple times in the catleap thread trying to spread the word, and I can definitely confirm the crashes in certain games with only 1 bridge attached


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Glad you got it sorted Pap and my hunch was it was those games. And, yeah, I meant CS Source, by the way. Considering it's practically given away by Valve (if you don't already own from back when) I figured you had it and knew for sure it caps right.

Don't forget about Nvidia Inspector for further control and tweaks too. Can do much more with it than just the NV CP.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> It's required for crossfire and [email protected] in my experience, I was the first one to find this out, it took me literally 12+ hours of testing until I realized it needed two bridges, I posted about it multiple times in the catleap thread trying to spread the word, and I can definitely confirm the crashes in certain games with only 1 bridge attached


Thanks for confirming. It's funny though I have talk to some people that refuse to believe it helps to use two bridges.
I tried booting with three cards and a extra bridge to bride the top and bottom cards and it BSOD on boot








So three AMD GPU's and 120hz 1440p is not going to do anything with only one bridge.


----------



## Zerias

I myself just picked up one of these off of Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/tech-data/B00BUI44US/ref=de_a_smtd) after finding this particular thread. I'm not exactly too worried about the dual-link DVI requirement, I've got an HSI RadeonHD 7770 that should handle that... and plenty of DVI cables...

Rather, I do have a question that I did not see answered in this thread (at least with a search of the thread). I have a couple of HDMI -> DVI adapter cables, including some that support HDMI -> Dual-Link DVI. I'm curious if anybody else has tested these panels with such a cable, and if so, is it known to work?


----------



## finalheaven

Stupid memorial day weekend... my monitor is going to stay put doing nothing till tuesday at least


----------



## brightbus

I need to buy one more so my tri-monitor setup will be complete. Then I need a better video card lol.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zerias*
> 
> I myself just picked up one of these off of Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/tech-data/B00BUI44US/ref=de_a_smtd) after finding this particular thread. I'm not exactly too worried about the dual-link DVI requirement, I've got an HSI RadeonHD 7770 that should handle that... and plenty of DVI cables...
> 
> Rather, I do have a question that I did not see answered in this thread (at least with a search of the thread). I have a couple of HDMI -> DVI adapter cables, including some that support HDMI -> Dual-Link DVI. I'm curious if anybody else has tested these panels with such a cable, and if so, is it known to work?


these monitors only have a dual link dvi input..


----------



## topthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> 1.IPS is made by LG and PLS is made by Samsung...They are both pretty much the same thing..Samsung used a different name and tried to improve on ips a little..
> 2.They look pretty much the same to me..I have 1 of each right now..
> 3.No real issues as long as you don't over do it..I just got my Qnix today and its amazing..
> 4.I don't know how you would consider it..I can for sure tell the difference in gaming and even in just dragging around windows..
> 5.I have a glossy and a matte and i am sending back my glossy Monoprice.My new one is matte..I think when reading text in a dark room glossy just looks sharper.But if there is alot of light in a room then it distracts you from whats on the screen..I personally love this new matte Qnix..


Thanks for replying, I have a few more questions









6) Do you know if the panel is 6 or 8 bit? I heard it may have been undeclared by Samsung and is a form of e-ips?
7)I don't like seeing my reflection I suppose so that means i should go matte (semi-gloss) but does it take away from color, contrast, etc.?
8)How noticeable is graininess with the matte vs gloss if you remember and I will be sitting about 1.5 feet away.


----------



## Zerias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> these monitors only have a dual link dvi input..


yes? And?

case in point, an HDMI to DVI cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4R5CK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI and DVI use the same exact picture signaling method. The only difference is that HDMI can also carry an audio stream.

On paper an HDMI -> DVI Dual-Link cable should be capable of powering this monitor. I'm asking if anybody else (here) has tried this on-paper approach first.

(lost the quote somehow)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zerias*
> 
> yes? And?
> 
> case in point, an HDMI to DVI cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4R5CK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> HDMI and DVI use the same exact picture signaling method. The only difference is that HDMI can also carry an audio stream.
> 
> On paper an HDMI -> DVI Dual-Link cable should be capable of powering this monitor. I'm asking if anybody else (here) has tried this on-paper approach first.


HDMI is not compatible with Dual Link DVI. In general, this will not work. And you will definitely not be able to overclock anywhere near 120hz .

That being said, one person (ToastyX) has managed to get it to work with an Nvidia/AMD card via HDMI->SL-DVI, at 60hz. Barely. It was very unstable, on the ragged edge of working and not working. You should be able to to do it just fine at pixel clocks <165mhz though (~42hz refresh rate).


----------



## Zerias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> HDMI is not compatible with Dual Link DVI. In general, this will not work. And you will definitely not be able to overclock anywhere near 120hz .
> 
> That being said, one person (ToastyX) has managed to get it to work with an Nvidia/AMD card via HDMI->SL-DVI, at 60hz. Barely. It was very unstable, on the ragged edge of working and not working. You should be able to to do it just fine at pixel clocks <165mhz though (~42hz refresh rate).


Thank you. That was the info i needed.


----------



## Lazdaa

The waiting is killing me!

Ugh mine just departed from Hong Kong!


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> The waiting is killing me!
> 
> Ugh mine just departed from Hong Kong!


It'll be there soon. I know, the wait is killer.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zerias*
> 
> yes? And?
> 
> case in point, an HDMI to DVI cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4R5CK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> HDMI and DVI use the same exact picture signaling method. The only difference is that HDMI can also carry an audio stream.
> 
> On paper an HDMI -> DVI Dual-Link cable should be capable of powering this monitor. I'm asking if anybody else (here) has tried this on-paper approach first.
> 
> (lost the quote somehow)


Sorry i thought you were asking if you could use a DVI to a HDMI cable for this monitor..


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> Thanks for replying, I have a few more questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6) Do you know if the panel is 6 or 8 bit? I heard it may have been undeclared by Samsung and is a form of e-ips?
> 7)I don't like seeing my reflection I suppose so that means i should go matte (semi-gloss) but does it take away from color, contrast, etc.?
> 8)How noticeable is graininess with the matte vs gloss if you remember and I will be sitting about 1.5 feet away.


Here is what i noticed..My glossy look more crisp and vibrant when i a dark room..The letters of text were sharper also..But The glare during the day killed it for me..Also blacks seemed more dark grey on glossy cause there was always a reflection..On my matte its not grainy at all i would say its perfect..But text just does not look as crisp in my opinion..And i sit about 1.5 to 2 feet away also..


----------



## cor35vet

The monitors use a true 8-bit panel. No FRC or crap like that.
See http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/samsung_s27b970d.htm


----------



## topthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Here is what i noticed..My glossy look more crisp and vibrant when i a dark room..The letters of text were sharper also..But The glare during the day killed it for me..Also blacks seemed more dark grey on glossy cause there was always a reflection..On my matte its not grainy at all i would say its perfect..But text just does not look as crisp in my opinion..And i sit about 1.5 to 2 feet away also..


+rep thanks man ill be making a decision soon!


----------



## brightbus

Finally got around to taking the stands out. One of my monitors was easy, like 5 minutes. The other, torque was sooo high on the screws...took me forever to get them out.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> The waiting is killing me!
> 
> Ugh mine just departed from Hong Kong!


At least you're in Denmark so the Memorial Day holiday doesn't apply to you... I have to wait until Tuesday for my monitor...









I'll be testing for BLB and dead/stuck pixels as soon as I receive it

Question for everyone else:
What pixel clock is required to run 96 and 120hz? Apparently GPU scaling doesn't work beyond 363.63mhz on 5000 series AMD video cards.

Also does non-GPU scaling mean that I can't run games on a lower resolution or just that it won't follow aspect ratio/go full screen?


----------



## faiyez

Got mine set up. Wow. 120 Hz and color profile. 1 dead pixel. Very impressive.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faiyez*
> 
> Got mine set up. Wow. 120 Hz and color profile. 1 dead pixel. Very impressive.










who did you buy from?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> At least you're in Denmark so the Memorial Day holiday doesn't apply to you... I have to wait until Tuesday for my monitor...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be testing for BLB and dead/stuck pixels as soon as I receive it
> 
> Question for everyone else:
> What pixel clock is required to run 96 and 120hz? Apparently GPU scaling doesn't work beyond 363.63mhz on 5000 series AMD video cards.
> 
> Also does non-GPU scaling mean that I can't run games on a lower resolution or just that it won't follow aspect ratio/go full screen?


Holidays are great if you get out of work or school..But not when waiting for a new toy to arrive..


----------



## faiyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> who did you buy from?


items_dealer (they have hulustar's listing)

They'll modify invoice on request.

The box had taken some abuse on its way here, but the monitor is everything you could ask for and more. No noticeable blb. I think I might stare at it all night. Or play some games.


----------



## Jboss

Just curious but does anyone here a successfully overclocked monitor to 120 hz using a 5850?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Just curious but does anyone here a successfully overclocked monitor to 120 hz using a 5850?


Not me sorry..


----------



## Paps.pt

Why is everyone so obsessed with the 120hz? I can do it, no sweat, but think that at that refresh rate the monitor gets too much dim, 96hz is good enough. And there's not many recent games where we can do 120 per second in max details anyway... Who agrees with me?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Why is everyone so obsessed with the 120hz? I can do it, no sweat, but think that at that refresh rate the monitor gets too much dim, 96hz is good enough. And there's not many recent games where we can do 120 per second in max details anyway... Who agrees with me?


I only play games at 96hz also..The screen just loses to much gamma any higher then that..And on BF3 with it set to ultra i am getting right at 90ish anyways..


----------



## un-nefer

A mate has one and has said it has too much motion blur to be used for competitive gaming (FPS games).

Is there any way to reduce the motion blur with this monitor? What about nvidia 3d lightboost like they do to the proper 120hz monitors - does that work?


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> At least you're in Denmark so the Memorial Day holiday doesn't apply to you... I have to wait until Tuesday for my monitor...


Guess i'm the lucky one after all









I'm actually quite interested in how my GPU will handle the resolution. Right now i', sitting on a 1680x1050 so it's quite a step. Not sure if i can use the 96/120Hz in games at all, since i can't seem to pull much over 60 in bf3, with everything on ultra ^^

I will most likely upgrade my gpu later this year as i heard Bf4 is coming in those hardware packs or whatever you might call them. Could be a sweet deal.

Also can we expect shipping stuff today? (sunday)


----------



## faiyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Why is everyone so obsessed with the 120hz? I can do it, no sweat, but think that at that refresh rate the monitor gets too much dim, 96hz is good enough. And there's not many recent games where we can do 120 per second in max details anyway... Who agrees with me?


I also left mine on 96.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> A mate has one and has said it has too much motion blur to be used for competitive gaming (FPS games).
> 
> Is there any way to reduce the motion blur with this monitor? What about nvidia 3d lightboost like they do to the proper 120hz monitors - does that work?


These monitors can't be hacked to use lightboost.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> These monitors can't be hacked to use lightboost.


I believe it's a technology that can only be used with TN monitors.


----------



## gockelmax

It took me half a week to read through all of the other giant thread and a third of this thread, but eventually you guys convinced me to order a qnix qx2710 matte! Right now I am excited and scared at the same time^^ ordered one from accessorieswhole for 259.98€. I'll report back once it arrived in Germany.
In the end I will probably habe to pay another 49.4€ (19%) taxes but it's still a steal compared to the alternatives!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I am no "competitive gamer" nor real expert on these things but I don't notice any motion blur at all.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I am no "competitive gamer" nor real expert on these things but I don't notice any motion blur at all.


I also don't notice any motion blur. Actually my Asus 1080p TN panel seems to have a little but the Qnix don't. But I am not a pro so maybe I don't know what to look for..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I also don't notice any motion blur. Actually my Asus 1080p TN panel seems to have a little but the Qnix don't. But I am not a pro so maybe I don't know what to look for..


Yeah, perhaps, and perception of such may be a bit subjective like the overall increased "smoothness" from higher refresh rates when the frames are high enough...but I would still think it would be at least somewhat obvious if there was blur.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> Someone please help I'm going insane...I've been forum stalking and researching endlessly. I'm deciding between yamakasi and Qnix basically the PLS VS IPS scenario. I need some questions answered and will be very much appreciated!
> 
> 1) Differences between IPS and PLS? (why is one better than the other if that?)
> 2) What looks better IPS or PLS?
> 3) For reliability on overclocking, is there any issues that can come out of it?
> 4)Is this true 120hz or is it verified 120hz as in the monitor can refresh at 120 and all but other components can't keep up leaving some motion blur etc.
> 5)Matte vs glossy...just some personal insight on either as i heard the qnix has a semi glossy (matte) and doesn't take much away from the screen. So basically how do they compare in picture quality + opinion.
> 
> Thanks! I might have more questions to.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> Thanks for replying, I have a few more questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6) Do you know if the panel is 6 or 8 bit? I heard it may have been undeclared by Samsung and is a form of e-ips?
> 7)I don't like seeing my reflection I suppose so that means i should go matte (semi-gloss) but does it take away from color, contrast, etc.?
> 8)How noticeable is graininess with the matte vs gloss if you remember and I will be sitting about 1.5 feet away.


I will add answers to these common questions in the FAQ section.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Just received mine. Still setting up. No taxes or nothing wuhu!!!


Not sure if ur still following this thread, but anywho did you have to pay taxes etc later on?

Not sure if i should expect some sad letter from the postal office or some ****


----------



## faiyez

Question here. Now that I'm overclocked, what should I be doing each time I update my video card drivers?

I was thinking revert to 60 Hz, get out of test mode.

Install new drivers.

Reapply pixel clock patcher, enable test mode

Overclock via nvidia control panel

(no need to fiddle with CRU?)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes as far as I gather. That is why in CRU you keep the 60Hz one as well.


----------



## Jinru

I notice the motion blur in Planetside 2. That's the only FPS game I've played on the monitor so far. Though, I don't remember if it's better or worse than my old TN panel with 2ms response time. I'd like to think its better with the 96hz OC.


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Not sure if ur still following this thread, but anywho did you have to pay taxes etc later on?
> 
> Not sure if i should expect some sad letter from the postal office or some ****


(UK) I got a tax bill from Fedex a couple of weeks later (which I haven't paid yet tbh







) consisting of 20% VAT and an '_advancement_' charge of £10.50 grr









£48.81 altogether on top of the £196 monitor.

PS After messing about with timings & polarity (on AMD 7950, using CRU) screen is flickery and has visible vertical lines, which I've never experienced before (seen faint horizontal ones at some point). This actually gets _worse_ at 60hz.

Gonna fiddle with the cables. NB The Yamasaki is not affected, just the Qnix.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> I notice the motion blur in Planetside 2. That's the only FPS game I've played on the monitor so far. Though, I don't remember if it's better or worse than my old TN panel with 2ms response time. I'd like to think its better with the 96hz OC.


Compared to my old TN 2ms response time monitor, I also notice the motion blur on the qnix at 60 Hz. I played League of Legends while having my monitor overclocked to 110 Hz and it was smoother. So I would assume that overclocking the monitor while playing planetside 2 would be beneficial


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

I know this has been answered in the op but there is not enough info, My monitor currently has the bezel of and the panel can be taken out, I am trying to fix the massive amount of glow eminating from my top right corner but the guide just says do it. is it safe to take of the metal surrounding the screen? Do I just rip the tape off that they have placed. How do I get the bright glow to get away when both bezels are off.




EDIT: stripped one of my screws connected to the panel directly what do I do? *** broke my phone today too































































i hate screwing


----------



## faiyez

I was wondering what to do for games that have a 'motion blur' feature. Should I turn it off? Since the monitor already has blur







Or is that an entirely different blur?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> I know this has been answered in the op but there is not enough info, My monitor currently has the bezel of and the panel can be taken out, I am trying to fix the massive amount of glow eminating from my top right corner but the guide just says do it. is it safe to take of the metal surrounding the screen? Do I just rip the tape off that they have placed. How do I get the bright glow to get away when both bezels are off.
> 
> EDIT: stripped one of my screws connected to the panel directly what do I do? *** broke my phone today too
> 
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I haven't received mine yet so I haven't had the chance to open it up. They have youtube videos here though: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE

Who did you purchase the monitor from?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> I know this has been answered in the op but there is not enough info, My monitor currently has the bezel of and the panel can be taken out, I am trying to fix the massive amount of glow eminating from my top right corner but the guide just says do it. is it safe to take of the metal surrounding the screen? Do I just rip the tape off that they have placed. How do I get the bright glow to get away when both bezels are off.
> 
> *[*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1480973/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> [*I*MG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1480974/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> EDIT: stripped one of my screws connected to the panel directly what do I do? *** broke my phone today too
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> i hate screwing


The only reliable way I have ever been able to deal with stripped screws was to use a bit set for a drill that is a reverse thread. You should be able to get one from amazon or any similar place for $5-10, put an appropriately sized one in a drill and carefully use it to bite into the screwhead and get it out. I have seen and tried all the other methods like superglue in the head with a screwdriver, prying it, using pliers, rubber-band, etc and they just don't work very often. Give them a shot first though, the rubber band method especially is safe and non-destructive. I'll find the exact name of the type of bit you'd want to use with a drill from my order history and edit back shortly.

EDIT: They are called "left hand drill bits". I found an old thread I had made years ago... http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/archive/index.php/t-452298.html where people gave a lot of suggestions and those are what finally worked for me as well as being safe for the device.


----------



## Alcaro

Any of the lads who replaced the stand with VESA desk mounts or stands care to comment on how good or bad they are?
I was happy with stability with it just touching the wall on one side...until I noticed the bezel has been rubbing black onto the wall.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alcaro*
> 
> Any of the lads who replaced the stand with VESA desk mounts or stands care to comment on how good or bad they are?
> I was happy with stability with it just touching the wall on one side...until I noticed the bezel has been rubbing black onto the wall.


I have it wall mounted and it's perfectly fine albeit i need a crap ton of washers because the screw holes in the monitor is not that deep.


----------



## tattashot

So what color are dead pixels suppose to be? I've got 2 light grey pixels on mine.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tattashot*
> 
> So what color are dead pixels suppose to be? I've got 2 light grey pixels on mine.


dead pixels are black. Stuck pixels are usually rgb but can be any color..


----------



## baren

Going from a 2ms Samsung to this I can definitely notice blur, but only some games. Killing Floor its very easy to see when strafing left or right. But playing something like Neverwinter Nights or Warframe I don't notice it at all. I feel I still need to try other games to get a better overall opinion. I am picky about blur as I game competitively, but as killnig floor is the only thing ive tested where i can see it its not that bad.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baren*
> 
> Going from a 2ms Samsung to this I can definitely notice blur, but only some games. Killing Floor its very easy to see when strafing left or right. But playing something like Neverwinter Nights or Warframe I don't notice it at all. I feel I still need to try other games to get a better overall opinion. I am picky about blur as I game competitively, but as killnig floor is the only thing ive tested where i can see it its not that bad.


Did you o/c? If so to what hz?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baren*
> 
> Going from a 2ms Samsung to this I can definitely notice blur, but only some games. Killing Floor its very easy to see when strafing left or right. But playing something like Neverwinter Nights or Warframe I don't notice it at all. I feel I still need to try other games to get a better overall opinion. I am picky about blur as I game competitively, but as killnig floor is the only thing ive tested where i can see it its not that bad.


If you game competitively why would you get an ips to begin with?Buy a 144hz Asus or something not a 1440p ips monitor lol..


----------



## Lazdaa

Just got a message that mine wil arrive today! Yay!

But.. I also have to pay the currier 550 DKK. (95 Bucks!) for taxes. Gooosh


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Just got a message that mine wil arrive today! Yay!
> 
> But.. I also have to pay the currier 550 DKK. (95 Bucks!) for taxes. Gooosh


Wow that's pricey..Make sure you let us know how it turns out.Good luck..


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Wow that's pricey..Make sure you let us know how it turns out.Good luck..


Yup that's indeed pricey! Although everything in Denmark is lol.

Anyways, i'm actually quite exited about how big the monitor itself is. As i'm sitting on a 22" 1680x1050 right now, it's a bit of a step









Also i'm not sure if i should overclock, what do you guys suggest? I'm running with an 7850 so not that much GPU power here.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Yup that's indeed pricey! Although everything in Denmark is lol.
> 
> Anyways, i'm actually quite exited about how big the monitor itself is. As i'm sitting on a 22" 1680x1050 right now, it's a bit of a step
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also i'm not sure if i should overclock, what do you guys suggest? I'm running with an 7850 so not that much GPU power here.


Overclocking will not demand anything more from your card. If you OC to 96Hz, like myself, when your card is able to deliver more than the normal 60FPs it´s great. Otherwise it will be like you have now, only that you must choose a color profile that makes it brigher so you dont loose much of picture quality. Not to mention that in windows everything gets smoother.
Wrapping up, I would do it


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Overclocking will not demand anything more from your card. If you OC to 96Hz, like myself, when your card is able to deliver more than the normal 60FPs it´s great. Otherwise it will be like you have now, only that you must choose a color profile that makes it brigher so you dont loose much of picture quality. Not to mention that in windows everything gets smoother.
> Wrapping up, I would do it


The only thing that kinda holds me back is the thought about the monitor isn't going to last as long or something


----------



## gockelmax

Did anyone of you have to wait 15-30 days? Just received an e-mail from accessorieswhole saying that shipping time is 15-30 days!


----------



## Gilgam3sh

mine was shipped friday from hulustar and got it monday...


----------



## wato21

Received my Matte Qnix today all good!
Seller; Hulu-Star $317 AU
I have gone over the screen and can confirm no dead or stuck pixels at all, absolutely spot on display awesome colours.
Slight backlight issue on bottom of screen in the middle, Nothing major at all might try to open it up later in the week, 2560_1440 running now @ 120 smooth ! Happy times


----------



## gockelmax

Ordinary or express shipping?


----------



## gockelmax

Ordinary or express shipping?


----------



## self_slaughter

Nah mine just got here today, was like 2-3 days from korea to australia anyway.
Spewing the weekend got in that way and added another couple of days to that.

Not overly impressed with the screen itself though so far.
I'll try be gentle and see if it grows on me.








Definately pulling it apart first chance I get to fix the backlight bleed though.
Dark backgrounds look yellow on the bottom it's that strong

Got it at 96hz so far with no need for any mods or anything.
Just added [email protected] as a custom res and it just works








I did briefly have 120hz working but it seemed to take forever to switch into 120hz mode though and i did get one scanline so I'll leave it at 96 for now and work on that later.

Response time is ****house, I'm not normally too bad with motion blur etc but I notice it big time on this screen.
Hopefully once I get some spare time I can try do what is needed to turn this from a pretty mediocre monitor into a half decent one at least


----------



## Lazdaa

Just packed it up and it's looking really good!

Very impressed with the size resolution and yea just everything so far!

I've did some quick dead pixel/blb looking and only noticed 1 dead/stuck pixel (can't see) a bit left to the center of the screen. But no biggie, there is usually text and stuff there i probably wont notice it.

Anyways the blackligt bleed is only minor, and i can't see it on a dark background in normal lighting. So, so far i'm probably not gonna open it up (feel saver this way too







)

I haven't adjusted colours yet neither the overclocking..

Also i have to find a new background


----------



## self_slaughter

Just to note, When I got mine I just set a custom res in nvidia control panel for 96hz and it worked fine.
Then I tried counter-strike and it was only running at 60hz?
Some games worked some didn't...

So I deleted my custom res in control panel, installed the pixel clock patcher and used cru to change 60hz to 120hz on the detailed 2560x1440 and now all games work with 120hz in all resolutions. Nice!


----------



## Lazdaa

I just tried overclocking to 96Hz and it seems to be working perfectly. I had 96 FPS in Counter Strike.

So i think i'm going to 120hz now










EDIT: Just went for 120Hz and fizzyness appeared







So back @96Hz. Not sure if it's gpu or cable but it doesn't really matter, i don't think i can pull more than 96 fps in my games.

Now to the colour calibration. Any recommendations? I see loads of profiles in the OP, but i don't know which to choose.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> I just tried overclocking to 96Hz and it seems to be working perfectly. I had 96 FPS in Counter Strike.
> 
> So i think i'm going to 120hz now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just went for 120Hz and fizzyness appeared
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So back @96Hz. Not sure if it's gpu or cable but it doesn't really matter, i don't think i can pull more than 96 fps in my games.
> 
> Now to the colour calibration. Any recommendations? I see loads of profiles in the OP, but i don't know which to choose.


Try one or two and decided what you think is best. It has to do with how much light you have in your ambient so it´s a little subjective.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey guys,

I'm 95% sure I'm buying this monitor (Qnix) but just some questions, I'll probably get it next month because my Visa is high enough already, so here it goes;

* What seller should I get it from? I'm currently thinking of Hulustar, Bigclothcraft or green-sum. I want to be able to ask for a lower value on invoice because Belgium likes to tax.
* Glossy vs Matte; I have a window +/- 4meter behind me and my computer case has an acrylic panel with leds that sits next to the case. I'm guessing it's better to get the matte one. I have a macbook pro with glossy screen and I love the picture.
* I have 2 Sapphire HD7870's running in crossfire, everything should be fine?
* I want to mount this on my wall, do I need to look for something specific (mount holes?), also I read some stuff about the built quality, my monitor won't fall of the wall will it?!

I currently have a Samsung XL2370led monitor running in 1080p, what sort of picture difference should I expect when I first turn on the monitor, will it be like omg wooooow









Thanks, looking forward to getting this beast. I'm going through the thread, I'm at page 77 atm


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm 95% sure I'm buying this monitor (Qnix) but just some questions, I'll probably get it next month because my Visa is high enough already, so here it goes;
> 
> * What seller should I get it from? I'm currently thinking of Hulustar, Bigclothcraft or green-sum. I want to be able to ask for a lower value on invoice because Belgium likes to tax.
> * Glossy vs Matte; I have a window +/- 4meter behind me and my computer case has an acrylic panel with leds that sits next to the case. I'm guessing it's better to get the matte one. I have a macbook pro with glossy screen and I love the picture.
> * I have 2 Sapphire HD7870's running in crossfire, everything should be fine?
> * I want to mount this on my wall, do I need to look for something specific (mount holes?), also I read some stuff about the built quality, my monitor won't fall of the wall will it?!
> 
> I currently have a Samsung XL2370led monitor running in 1080p, what sort of picture difference should I expect when I first turn on the monitor, will it be like omg wooooow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, looking forward to getting this beast. I'm going through the thread, I'm at page 77 atm


Shouldn't have any problems with the 7870's. I'm running crossfired 7870s and am running 2 of these bad boys, about to add a third.

It uses vesa mounts. I believe its 100x100. unfortunately you have to open up the monitor to take the little piece out that connects the monitor to the stand, unless you want that ugly piece sticking out. Not too hard though.

2560x1440 is a whole new world, youll love it


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm 95% sure I'm buying this monitor (Qnix) but just some questions, I'll probably get it next month because my Visa is high enough already, so here it goes;
> 
> * What seller should I get it from? I'm currently thinking of Hulustar, Bigclothcraft or green-sum. I want to be able to ask for a lower value on invoice because Belgium likes to tax.
> * Glossy vs Matte; I have a window +/- 4meter behind me and my computer case has an acrylic panel with leds that sits next to the case. I'm guessing it's better to get the matte one. I have a macbook pro with glossy screen and I love the picture.
> * I have 2 Sapphire HD7870's running in crossfire, everything should be fine?
> * I want to mount this on my wall, do I need to look for something specific (mount holes?), also I read some stuff about the built quality, my monitor won't fall of the wall will it?!
> 
> I currently have a Samsung XL2370led monitor running in 1080p, what sort of picture difference should I expect when I first turn on the monitor, will it be like omg wooooow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, looking forward to getting this beast. I'm going through the thread, I'm at page 77 atm


Get whichever is cheapest, the Qnix tend to be priced a bit higher than the X-star. But they are exactly the same.

1. All of the mentioned sellers are good. I got my X-Star from Green-Sum, and while he did lower the value i don't think he marked it as a gift and i had to pay taxes to DHL.

2. I would say if you have a window in your room you should settle with an Matte, just to be on the save side. Also the matte on this panel isn't bad at all, some might call it semi-glossy.

3. I got an 7850 and i can pull out 96Hz with the stock cable. So if you are lucky you might be able to pull out 120hz. As long as you got 2 bridges you will be fine, the display will not work with only 1.

4. The monitor is a bit whoppy but i'm okay with it. It got a 100mm vesa mount so you can mount it to your wall or desk. The monitor isn't a Dell or some high class fancy **** so the build quality isn't superb, but it's more than good enough for me. Alternatively you could put the panel in a new casing. Someone was talking about this in this thread.

i came from a 22' 1680x1050 and i was like waaosjahgdpaslidfgh







The resolution is insane! i love it!

Cheers and Good Luck!


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Get whichever is cheapest, the Qnix tend to be priced a bit higher than the X-star. But they are exactly the same.
> 
> 1. All of the mentioned sellers are good. I got my X-Star from Green-Sum, and while he did lower the value i don't think he marked it as a gift and i had to pay taxes to DHL.
> 
> 2. I would say if you have a window in your room you should settle with an Matte, just to be on the save side. Also the matte on this panel isn't bad at all, some might call it semi-glossy.
> 
> 3. I got an 7850 and i can pull out 96Hz with the stock cable. So if you are lucky you might be able to pull out 120hz. As long as you got 2 bridges you will be fine, the display will not work with only 1.
> 
> 4. The monitor is a bit whoppy but i'm okay with it. It got a 100mm vesa mount so you can mount it to your wall or desk. The monitor isn't a Dell or some high class fancy **** so the build quality isn't superb, but it's more than good enough for me. Alternatively you could put the panel in a new casing. Someone was talking about this in this thread.
> 
> i came from a 22' 1680x1050 and i was like waaosjahgdpaslidfgh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The resolution is insane! i love it!
> 
> Cheers and Good Luck!


Do some of the 7000 series (specifically the 7800 series) only have one bridge on the cards? Mine only has one as far as I can see, and I've been able to run the monitors (1 overclocked) just fine.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Get whichever is cheapest, the Qnix tend to be priced a bit higher than the X-star. But they are exactly the same.
> 
> 1. All of the mentioned sellers are good. I got my X-Star from Green-Sum, and while he did lower the value i don't think he marked it as a gift and i had to pay taxes to DHL.
> 
> 2. I would say if you have a window in your room you should settle with an Matte, just to be on the save side. Also the matte on this panel isn't bad at all, some might call it semi-glossy.
> 
> 3. I got an 7850 and i can pull out 96Hz with the stock cable. So if you are lucky you might be able to pull out 120hz. As long as you got 2 bridges you will be fine, the display will not work with only 1.
> 
> 4. The monitor is a bit whoppy but i'm okay with it. It got a 100mm vesa mount so you can mount it to your wall or desk. The monitor isn't a Dell or some high class fancy **** so the build quality isn't superb, but it's more than good enough for me. Alternatively you could put the panel in a new casing. Someone was talking about this in this thread.
> 
> i came from a 22' 1680x1050 and i was like waaosjahgdpaslidfgh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The resolution is insane! i love it!
> 
> Cheers and Good Luck!


Oh








My 7870's only allow for 1 bridge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Do some of the 7000 series (specifically the 7800 series) only have one bridge on the cards? Mine only has one as far as I can see, and I've been able to run the monitors (1 overclocked) just fine.


So you have 2 78XX's running crossfire with one bridge and it works? Did you OC the monitor?


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Do some of the 7000 series (specifically the 7800 series) only have one bridge on the cards? Mine only has one as far as I can see, and I've been able to run the monitors (1 overclocked) just fine.


Well. Others had issues, and it has been stated that it wouldn't work properly.

Quote:


> CrossFire requires two bridges if the pixel clock is greater than 320 MHz. This is only possible with cards that have two connectors. It will not work properly with more than two cards.


Source: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## brightbus

Yes I have 2 xfx 7870's core editions and was able to overclock the monitor.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Yes I have 2 xfx 7870's core editions and was able to overclock the monitor.


Running games too at the higher Hz for sure?


----------



## Lazdaa

Anywho are any of you using F.lux?

I think i read somewhere that it caused trouble but not sure what and how.


----------



## topthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Overclocking will not demand anything more from your card. If you OC to 96Hz, like myself, when your card is able to deliver more than the normal 60FPs it´s great. Otherwise it will be like you have now, only that you must choose a color profile that makes it brigher so you dont loose much of picture quality. Not to mention that in windows everything gets smoother.
> Wrapping up, I would do it


So you notice gaming with a difference with 96hz? Seems like im going to go with a Qnix glossy and want to overclock but 96hz vs 120hz is what i want to know now lol. Also if that the multiple of 24 fps matters much because then what about games for being 60fps? 120hz seems king anything divisible by 30 and 24 also.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Running games too at the higher Hz for sure?


I could immediately tell a difference in League of Legends. So much smoother.


This is my current set up. The middle and left monitors are qnix's. The right one is an older aoc I'm using, thats just acting as a place holder until my third qnix comes this week.



Pic from catalyst control center/amd vision or whatever they're calling it these days







. This is only the middle monitor. The left one is just running at 60hz.


My one bridge video cards
Sorry for the crappy pics, all I have is a cell phone camera.


----------



## topthis

As for the glossy vs matte, if you are having no glare issues and want to keep best clarity and such go glossy and this is easy for you because you can use your monitor as a test for reflections! Also you will need a 2nd crossfire bridge and your monitor will not fall off the wall, just screw on tightly and securely!









*Just realized how many replied to your questions, oh well more information the merrier!







*


----------



## brightbus

League showing 120 fps. Fraps shows same thing. Though its usally around 95-100 not the full 120.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> The only reliable way I have ever been able to deal with stripped screws was to use a bit set for a drill that is a reverse thread. You should be able to get one from amazon or any similar place for $5-10, put an appropriately sized one in a drill and carefully use it to bite into the screwhead and get it out. I have seen and tried all the other methods like superglue in the head with a screwdriver, prying it, using pliers, rubber-band, etc and they just don't work very often. Give them a shot first though, the rubber band method especially is safe and non-destructive. I'll find the exact name of the type of bit you'd want to use with a drill from my order history and edit back shortly.
> 
> EDIT: They are called "left hand drill bits". I found an old thread I had made years ago... http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/archive/index.php/t-452298.html where people gave a lot of suggestions and those are what finally worked for me as well as being safe for the device.


Cool thanks, do you think the vibrations are fine on the monitor?


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I haven't received mine yet so I haven't had the chance to open it up. They have youtube videos here though: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE
> 
> Who did you purchase the monitor from?


Awesome just what I was looking for, I bought mine from allkillsale, he was great and returned a crossover that had 7 dead pixels and replaced it with a pixel perfect qnix. The reds were better on the crossover but the contrast is better on the qnix.


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I believe it's a technology that can only be used with TN monitors.


Only if they have a special strobing backlight.

In other words there's a list of under 10 monitors that support it.


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Anywho are any of you using F.lux?
> 
> I think i read somewhere that it caused trouble but not sure what and how.


Works perfectly, only side effect is that it removes your custom ICC profile if you've installed one.

Any changes you make in Nvidia control panel or any custom ICC you apply gets reset and removed to default while f.lux is running. Your monitor is basically at default colours (plus the yellow effect from f.lux itself, it still works fine)


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Cool thanks, do you think the vibrations are fine on the monitor?


I can't guarantee it but I sincerely doubt it would hurt it any more than it did my Tivo motherboard... just run it at a low speed and it'll back the screw out without much vibration.


----------



## tattashot

So how does this look for backlight bleed? Good, average, or bad?

First is at 100% brightness, 30 clicks


Second at 50% brightness, 15 clicks


----------



## hamzatm

Ascertain what you yourself think about it and if it affects your own experience!

It's your monitor after all


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tattashot*
> 
> So how does this look for backlight bleed? Good, average, or bad?
> 
> First is at 100% brightness, 30 clicks
> 
> 
> Second at 50% brightness, 15 clicks


Looks good to me..


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Well. Others had issues, and it has been stated that it wouldn't work properly.
> Source: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Yes I have 2 xfx 7870's core editions and was able to overclock the monitor.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I could immediately tell a difference in League of Legends. So much smoother.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my current set up. The middle and left monitors are qnix's. The right one is an older aoc I'm using, thats just acting as a place holder until my third qnix comes this week.
> 
> 
> 
> Pic from catalyst control center/amd vision or whatever they're calling it these days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . This is only the middle monitor. The left one is just running at 60hz.
> 
> 
> My one bridge video cards
> Sorry for the crappy pics, all I have is a cell phone camera.


Thanks! So I just did a search and found some posts that the second bridge is unnecessarily and might even cause more problems. I also found that 2 bridges were more common on older cards. I guess I'll just have to hope that it works, if not I'll need to sell the cards and get something else









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> As for the glossy vs matte, if you are having no glare issues and want to keep best clarity and such go glossy and this is easy for you because you can use your monitor as a test for reflections! Also you will need a 2nd crossfire bridge and your monitor will not fall off the wall, just screw on tightly and securely!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Just realized how many replied to your questions, oh well more information the merrier!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Hehe thanks, that fall off the wall was a funny question. I'll put my macbook in front off me, curious, I never use it on my desk.
Argh hope I can prove you guys wrong with the second bridge, it works for brightbus so fingers crossed!!


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Anywho are any of you using F.lux?
> 
> I think i read somewhere that it caused trouble but not sure what and how.


I use Flux and have noticed zero problems. It works like it should. Even when OCed to 96hz..


----------



## topthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Thanks! So I just did a search and found some posts that the second bridge is unnecessarily and might even cause more problems. I also found that 2 bridges were more common on older cards. I guess I'll just have to hope that it works, if not I'll need to sell the cards and get something else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe thanks, that fall off the wall was a funny question. I'll put my macbook in front off me, curious, I never use it on my desk.
> Argh hope I can prove you guys wrong with the second bridge, it works for brightbus so fingers crossed!!


Good luck and let me know with what you choose!


----------



## Lazdaa

So i tried to play some BF3 and it's looks great.. If only i had a better GPU...

I wanted to take advantage of the 96hz, but what settings should i choose? Also do i want V-Sync?


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> So i tried to play some BF3 and it's looks great.. If only i had a better GPU...
> 
> I wanted to take advantage of the 96hz, but what settings should i choose? Also do i want V-Sync?


Medium-High. And as for using V-sync, I would only to see if it caps to 96hz, but I personally would have it off for multiplayer.


----------



## Orchidaceae

so with the stock DVI cable you more likely get to 96hz?
To buy a better cable what i need to look for?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tattashot*
> 
> So how does this look for backlight bleed? Good, average, or bad?
> 
> First is at 100% brightness, 30 clicks
> 
> 
> Second at 50% brightness, 15 clicks


I would love it if I could get that little of BLB. I would live with it perfectly content. Mine should arrive tomorrow


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Thanks! So I just did a search and found some posts that the second bridge is unnecessarily and might even cause more problems. I also found that 2 bridges were more common on older cards. I guess I'll just have to hope that it works, if not I'll need to sell the cards and get something else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe thanks, that fall off the wall was a funny question. I'll put my macbook in front off me, curious, I never use it on my desk.
> Argh hope I can prove you guys wrong with the second bridge, it works for brightbus so fingers crossed!!


Don't know who said it would cause more problems..
For me some games will not load with one bridge. With one bridge its a little laggy. With two bridges everything is normal. With two 78xx cards it might be different than 79xx cards I think there is a limit to how much pixel clock can be pushed out of the bridge and with 78xx it might not be trying to push as much thru the bridge. So you will have to test and see for yourself.


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orchidaceae*
> 
> so with the stock DVI cable you more likely get to 96hz?
> To buy a better cable what i need to look for?


The stock cable they sent me was single link! Didn't work at all lol.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orchidaceae*
> 
> so with the stock DVI cable you more likely get to 96hz?
> To buy a better cable what i need to look for?


You want a good 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable like this..But i have a 24awg monoprice cable that came with my monoprice monitor and there is no difference between that and my qnix cable..They both hit 12ohz no problem.But each case is different..

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I am going to have to wait for dark before final judge but I am pretty certain I have greatly lessened the worst of my bleed by just removing the middle two screws. They go right under where my most noticeable two spots are which is pretty much on either side of logo. Not too long or high but bright, especially the left one. Could even see on the blueish-grey spawn screen in BF3 at night...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> So i tried to play some BF3 and it's looks great.. If only i had a better GPU...
> 
> I wanted to take advantage of the 96hz, but what settings should i choose? Also do i want V-Sync?


Well if you can't even push 96 no real point to vsync--that's only to protect against tearing when you are rendering frames much higher than your refresh. Note in BF3 you can now choose 2560x1440 in both 60 and 96Hz (or whatever you have set). There won't be any difference/ advantage if you arent even getting 60FPS but it's can't hurt either to make sure it's at the higher refresh too.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I am going to have to wait for dark before final judge but I am pretty certain I have greatly lessened the worst of my bleed by just removing the middle two screws. They go right under where my most noticeable two spots are which is pretty much on either side of logo. Not too long or high but bright, especially the left one. Could even see on the blueish-grey spawn screen in BF3 at night...
> Well if you can't even push 96 no real point to vsync--that's only to protect against tearing when you are rendering frames much higher than your refresh. Note in BF3 you can now choose 2560x1440 in both 60 and 96Hz (or whatever you have set). There won't be any difference/ advantage if you arent even getting 60FPS but it's can't hurt either to make sure it's at the higher refresh too.


You should use RadeonPro and use there dynamic framerate control and set it to whatever frames you are getting in game..


----------



## baren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Did you o/c? If so to what hz?


I'm running at 110hz
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> If you game competitively why would you get an ips to begin with?Buy a 144hz Asus or something not a 1440p ips monitor lol..


Just letting prospective buyers know my findings, but yes, if all I did was game competitively and expected the most performance from my monitor than I would not use this. But lately I just don't have the time for it anymore so I figured I'd rather enjoy a better monitor for most of the games I play, instead of those few that I notice it in.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baren*
> 
> I'm running at 110hz
> Just letting prospective buyers know my findings, but yes, if all I did was game competitively and expected the most performance from my monitor than I would not use this. But lately I just don't have the time for it anymore so I figured I'd rather enjoy a better monitor for most of the games I play, instead of those few that I notice it in.


I was interested in the comparison myself... thanks for posting your thoughts up. I'm not a competitive gamer in terms of anything professional, but I do notice the difference having been used to 60hz IPS 2560x1600 going to this PLS @ 120hz 2560x1440 like night and day. I was curious on how it stacked up to some of the TN ones. though I'd never consider downgrading to one at this point after using IPS/better daily since 2004







. The colors and depth it gives the picture, plus resolution, are just too good.


----------



## Lazdaa

Should i use a higher Hz if i am able to? I mean im at 96 now but should i go for like 108 or whatever i can get?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh yeah it is definitely a lot better w/out the middle screws. This also has helped the issue where the taskbar icons in the middle were lower down than those closer to the edges (damn near cut off on very bottom). Interesting that they can be "too tight" and causing these problems.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Should i use a higher Hz if i am able to? I mean im at 96 now but should i go for like 108 or whatever i can get?


Yep, keep going up until you can no longer get it stable!


----------



## hamzatm

If you want higher Hz, go for it.

Use what you like the most, not what gives the highest Hz.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Should i use a higher Hz if i am able to? I mean im at 96 now but should i go for like 108 or whatever i can get?


The higher you go the darker it gets..


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Oh yeah it is definitely a lot better w/out the middle screws. This also has helped the issue where the taskbar icons in the middle were lower down than those closer to the edges (damn near cut off on very bottom). Interesting that they can be "too tight" and causing these problems.


How did you remove those screws?I have a lil BLB on bottom left side of QNIX sign..


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> The higher you go the darker it gets..


exactly. I find 96hz the best compromise, even though I can do 120hz with stock cable. Too much dim for my taste and 96hz is smooth enough. Who agrees with me?


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> exactly. I find 96hz the best compromise, even though I can do 120hz with stock cable. Too much dim for my taste and 96hz is smooth enough. Who agrees with me?


Me! Started off with 120Hz, then switched to 96Hz and it was still smooth but much brighter.

Then of course I canned it and went back to lightboost


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Me! Started off with 120Hz, then switched to 96Hz and it was still smooth but much brighter.
> 
> Then of course I canned it and went back to lightboost


\

By turning it down to 96hz I was able to get 96 hz on both monitors







there is some artifacts on the second one, but I think thats because I'm using the stock cable. I have a better one (same as im using with the first) that ill be able to go get tomorrow.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Me! Started off with 120Hz, then switched to 96Hz and it was still smooth but much brighter.
> 
> Then of course I canned it and went back to lightboost


Lightboost is great and all but If by that you mean 27" 1080P then not impressed.


----------



## GoldenTiger

120hz is pretty bright (plenty for gaming) for me and isn't bad on color at all (it's definitely a good chunk dimmer towards the top right in brightness+vibrancy), but I run the desktop at 96hz or 60hz depending on what I'm doing (color-sensitive work = bring it to 60 to regain full uniformity).


----------



## munaim1

Unless there are any objections with my choice and the seller, I should be ordering mine in the next few hours.







can't wait!!!

Will keep you posted









Gonna order this aswell, should hopefully work. Will post pictures of the setup after I'm done


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Lightboost is great and all but If by that you mean 27" 1080P then not impressed.


Not at all, I have an XL2411T now

24" goodness!

Do I need to update my rig?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Should i use a higher Hz if i am able to? I mean im at 96 now but should i go for like 108 or whatever i can get?


I read somewhere that it is best to use multiples of 24 for video playback smoothness (since most movies being shown at 24 fps). For example, 24*4 = 96. That is why many people settle on 96, it isn't some random number. My point being, you aren't going to get much out of your screen by that extra 12 Hz, going from your current 96 to your maximum 108 Hz. You might as well stick at 96 for smooth video playback.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

This is true though 60 is not a mult. of 24...


----------



## OneGun

I think it's all bs. Don't think films will look any better on 96 then they will on 111 let's say.. I have a 120hz TV but when I play blue rays it's always at 24fps no matter what.. Also a lot of other things like YouTube video and such are 30fps..so that mean we need to use 90hz when watching YouTube?


----------



## hamzatm

It's specific to blu rays. Read up on it, it's called blu ray jitter


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I think it's all bs. Don't think films will look any better on 96 then they will on 111 let's say.. I have a 120hz TV but when I play blue rays it's always at 24fps no matter what.. Also a lot of other things like YouTube video and such are 30fps..so that mean we need to use 90hz when watching YouTube?


Let me start off by saying that I don't know the technicalities in detail.

But technically from what I understand, playing a video at 24 fps (for example) on a monitor with a refresh rate of 60 Hz, there is a down-scaling ratio (2.5:1). On the contrast, if using a refresh rate that is a multiple of 24, for example 96, then the ratio wouldn't be a fraction (for example 4:1). Why it is important to keep a non-fractional playback to refresh rate ratio is that a fractional ratio creates aliasing and clipping. While it may not be noticeable to some, I would guess that it may be crucial to others who produce or can otherwise notice the negative effects


----------



## OneGun

I have a 55 inch TV for blue rays lol.. I bought this for gaming and everyone says 96hz.why for gaming is that recommended?


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I have a 55 inch TV for blue rays lol.. I bought this for gaming and everyone says 96hz.why for gaming is that recommended?


Yep, I run my blu discs on a projector.... if you aren't concerned about anything but desktop use and gaming, you can use any refresh rate you want, no reason not to.


----------



## faiyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I have a 55 inch TV for blue rays lol.. I bought this for gaming and everyone says 96hz.why for gaming is that recommended?


Most single graphics cards aren't able to get to 96fps when maxing out a current game @1440p, let alone 120 fps.

96 Hz on Qnix seems to be an adequate compromise, for this and other reasons already mentioned like color fidelity.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faiyez*
> 
> Most single graphics cards aren't able to get to 96fps when maxing out a current game @1440p, let alone 120 fps.
> 
> 96 Hz on Qnix seems to be an adequate compromise, for this and other reasons already mentioned like color fidelity.


The color i will agree with for sure..But since i am running two 7950 boost cards i will go up a little bit higher..Maybe 105-110..


----------



## topthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Me! Started off with 120Hz, then switched to 96Hz and it was still smooth but much brighter.
> 
> Then of course I canned it and went back to lightboost


smoothness in gaming 96hz vs 120hz? can you tell a difference??


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> smoothness in gaming 96hz vs 120hz? can you tell a difference??


The average user can't tell the difference between 60 hz and 120 hz so the difference from 96 hz to 120 hz is very minimal.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> smoothness in gaming 96hz vs 120hz? can you tell a difference??


Yes its 1/5th more jittery with 96hz. I can tell the difference. For me since I had a 120hz TN. 96hz is annoying with this monitor. 120hz with this monitor is still slower than I'm use too, so 96hz is really noticeable. But the whole argument about watching movies is you should run 96hz on desktop for color and movies.
But for gaming you might was well push it as far as you can. If you can't get 120hz you probably can get 110hz so just use a profile for gaming that is max clocks and then use 96hz for everything else.


----------



## OneGun

For anyone that OCs there monitor to watch a blu ray,...Get a tv...


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> For anyone that OCs there monitor to watch a blu ray,...Get a tv...


What is yours set at? 120hz with the decreased brightness?

I finally get mine tomorrow and I have my fingers crossed for low BLB and less than 2 dead pixels.


----------



## OneGun

I run it at 60 when not gaming and 100 now when gaming..120 is to dim for me..I just need to try and find a better color profile for 120hz..Mine has zero dead pixels and very slight BLB on the left of the QNIX sign in bottom middle..

Let me know how yours goes..Where is it at right now Ohio still?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I run it at 60 when not gaming and 100 now when gaming..120 is to dim for me..I just need to try and find a better color profile for 120hz..Mine has zero dead pixels and very slight BLB on the left of the QNIX sign in bottom middle..
> 
> Let me know how yours goes..Where is it at right now Ohio still?


I saw the picture of your BLB. I would be completely happy with that.

Mine is in Los Angeles now (airport). So I should get it tomorrow for sure.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> For anyone that OCs there monitor to watch a blu ray,...Get a tv...


Some people don't even buy tv's anymore. What's wrong with watching it on your monitor, esp ones that 27 inches.


----------



## finalheaven

brightbus

What does it mean for the standard 60hz monitors that most people have? 60hz obviously isn't a multiple of 24.

Does that mean everyone who uses a monitor to watch anything that is made in 24hz have been seeing errors? If so, most people won't notice the difference between setting their hz in a 24 multiple or not in a 24 multiple hz right?

In other words most people like myself (I watch movies/youtube/everything) on my 60hz monitor, I won't notice a difference between 100hz or 96hz? (seems like being in 24hz is overrated?)


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Let me start off by saying that I don't know the technicalities in detail.
> 
> But technically from what I understand, playing a video at 24 fps (for example) on a monitor with a refresh rate of 60 Hz, there is a down-scaling ratio (2.5:1). On the contrast, if using a refresh rate that is a multiple of 24, for example 96, then the ratio wouldn't be a fraction (for example 4:1). Why it is important to keep a non-fractional playback to refresh rate ratio is that a fractional ratio creates aliasing and clipping. While it may not be noticeable to some, I would guess that it may be crucial to others who produce or can otherwise notice the negative effects


I think he summed it up well.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I think he summed it up well.


So in others words, majority of us, pretty much 99% of us who have TVs or monitors that run at 60hz, won't notice the difference at all from running 96hz or 100hz? Since majority of us running 60hz never have been running at a multiple of 24hz to begin with?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Some people don't even buy tv's anymore. What's wrong with watching it on your monitor, esp ones that 27 inches.


I guess it makes sense if you can't afford a tv..But for me movies are about comfort and Boston Acoustics surround sound..Plus how you ever going watch a movie with someone on a 27in monitor have them sit on your lap?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I saw the picture of your BLB. I would be completely happy with that.
> 
> Mine is in Los Angeles now (airport). So I should get it tomorrow for sure.


You will have it around 11ish i am thinking..Thats when mine came..


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Okay, I'm looking at Ebay, might get it today or tomorrow, I upped my creditcard limit for 3 days









Now looking @ Hulustar there are 4 matte monitors and they all look the same but price is different, also I thought shipping was free but it says 45$.

1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bf9dd

2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/140932730742?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20d03ecf76

3. http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/140936408736?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item20d076eea0

4. http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/130871596634?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1e788e165a

I seem to get AUS $, $, euro and £ prices on those links.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> exactly. I find 96hz the best compromise, even though I can do 120hz with stock cable. Too muc h dim for my taste and 96hz is smooth enough. Who agrees with me?


I don't. For gaming run the highest refresh rate you can if you truly want smooth gameplay. The problem with these panels is that it can cause some image retention, motion blur aka ghosting.
If it becomes dim then I suggest you don't use the ICC profiles on the first page and buy a spyder 4 as every single panel will have variations.


----------



## fluffysheap

If the monitor's refresh rate isn't a multiple of the video framerate then the video player will alternately drop and insert frames to keep in sync, or else it will tear the video (just like gaming with vsync off). Probably it will drop/insert frames but it depends on the software.

Regardless of what the monitor reports to the OS, the panel spec goes up to 75Hz. If you really care about this, the thing to do is probably to set it to 72Hz before watching a 24FPS movie. This should give you high-quality color and brightness without any worry about framerate mismatch. Or, if you don't notice this particular artifact, then just don't worry about it.

I'm looking into making a Lightboost-style backlight mod for this monitor, but I'd like to request some help with research to see what results people are getting with overclocks. Essentially, for this to work, it's important that the panel be able to handle a very long blanking interval, and to do it without getting super dim. This mod would yield something in the 85-96Hz range but with 120Hz pixel clock. The extra clock would be used for a large blanking interval, during which the backlight would illuminate. This would make motion much less blurry, although it still wouldn't be as good as the TN Lightboost monitors, due to the panel simply being slower. There would be a three-way tradeoff between flicker, blur, and refresh rate.

Here's what I would like, if possible:
1) Fire up Toasty CRU or whatever you use for custom timings.
2) *Set to 90Hz*. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the total vertical rows. Depending on your tool, this is either the "back porch," "blanking interval," or the "total lines" or "total rows."
3) Increase the vertical rows or back porch by 75-100 at a time. If you're setting total lines, increase up until about 1900-1950 total lines. If you're setting the blanking interval or back porch, you want about 500. Either of these are roughly the same pixel clock as normal blanking @120Hz.
4) Report if the monitor freaks out, if you get the same brightness/color shift that normally happens in the 120Hz range or if the color quality stayed good, how high of a vertical row setting you reached, what your top normal overclock is, and whether you have a QNIX or X-Star monitor.
5) If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.

Anyone who is willing to do this test, please feel free to just send me the results in a PM, unless your results are really interesting! No need to clutter up the thread.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> If the monitor's refresh rate isn't a multiple of the video framerate then the video player will alternately drop and insert frames to keep in sync, or else it will tear the video (just like gaming with vsync off). Probably it will drop/insert frames but it depends on the software.
> 
> Regardless of what the monitor reports to the OS, the panel spec goes up to 75Hz. If you really care about this, the thing to do is probably to set it to 72Hz before watching a 24FPS movie. This should give you high-quality color and brightness without any worry about framerate mismatch. Or, if you don't notice this particular artifact, then just don't worry about it.
> 
> I'm looking into making a Lightboost-style backlight mod for this monitor, but I'd like to request someone to do some research for me. Essentially, for this to work, it's important that the panel be able to handle a very long blanking interval, and to do it without getting super dim. This mod would yield something in the 85-96Hz range but with 120Hz pixel clock. This would make motion much less blurry, although it still wouldn't be as good as the TN Lightboost monitors, due to the panel simply being slower. There would be a three-way tradeoff between flicker, blur, and refresh rate.
> 
> Here's what I would like, if possible:
> 1) Fire up Toasty CRU or whatever you use for custom timings.
> 2) Set to 96Hz. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the vertical rows.
> 3) Increase the vertical rows by 75-100 at a time, up until 1800-1850 (which is the same pixel clock as [email protected] 120Hz).
> 4) Report if the monitor freaks out, if you get the same brightness/color shift that normally happens in the 120Hz range or if the color quality stayed good, how high of a vertical row setting you reached, and what your top normal overclock is, and whether you have a QNIX or X-Star monitor.
> 
> Anyone who is willing to do this test, please feel free to just send me the results in a PM, unless your results are really interesting! No need to clutter up the thread.


Will this light boost mod work for AMD cards?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Okay, I'm looking at Ebay, might get it today or tomorrow, I upped my creditcard limit for 3 days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now looking @ Hulustar there are 4 matte monitors and they all look the same but price is different, also I thought shipping was free but it says 45$.
> 
> 1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bf9dd
> 
> 2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/140932730742?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20d03ecf76
> 
> 3. http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/140936408736?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item20d076eea0
> 
> 4. http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/130871596634?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1e788e165a
> 
> I seem to get AUS $, $, euro and £ prices on those links.


The one that is $317 us is the one everyone has been buying lately..Me included..


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> The one that is $317 us is the one everyone has been buying lately..Me included..


Thanks! I'm gonna wait till tomorrow. Not 100% sure yet about the matte vs glossy


----------



## fluffysheap

It doesn't exist, but if I do it, it will work with any card. AMD users will still have to unlock the pixel clock.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> I don't. For gaming run the highest refresh rate you can if you truly want smooth gameplay. The problem with these panels is that it can cause some image retention, motion blur aka ghosting.
> If it becomes dim then I suggest you don't use the ICC profiles on the first page and buy a spyder 4 as every single panel will have variations.


Do you have graphic card power to show 120 frames per second in most current games at 1400p? I know I dont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> If the monitor's refresh rate isn't a multiple of the video framerate then the video player will alternately drop and insert frames to keep in sync, or else it will tear the video (just like gaming with vsync off). Probably it will drop/insert frames but it depends on the software.
> 
> Regardless of what the monitor reports to the OS, the panel spec goes up to 75Hz. If you really care about this, the thing to do is probably to set it to 72Hz before watching a 24FPS movie. This should give you high-quality color and brightness without any worry about framerate mismatch. Or, if you don't notice this particular artifact, then just don't worry about it.
> 
> I'm looking into making a Lightboost-style backlight mod for this monitor, but I'd like to request some help with research to see what results people are getting with overclocks. Essentially, for this to work, it's important that the panel be able to handle a very long blanking interval, and to do it without getting super dim. This mod would yield something in the 85-96Hz range but with 120Hz pixel clock. The extra clock would be used for a large blanking interval, during which the backlight would illuminate. This would make motion much less blurry, although it still wouldn't be as good as the TN Lightboost monitors, due to the panel simply being slower. There would be a three-way tradeoff between flicker, blur, and refresh rate.
> 
> Here's what I would like, if possible:
> 1) Fire up Toasty CRU or whatever you use for custom timings.
> 2) *Set to 90Hz*. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the total vertical rows. Depending on your tool, this is either the "back porch," "blanking interval," or the "total lines" or "total rows."
> 3) Increase the vertical rows or back porch by 75-100 at a time. If you're setting total lines, increase up until about 1900-1950 total lines. If you're setting the blanking interval or back porch, you want about 500. Either of these are roughly the same pixel clock as normal blanking @120Hz.
> 4) Report if the monitor freaks out, if you get the same brightness/color shift that normally happens in the 120Hz range or if the color quality stayed good, how high of a vertical row setting you reached, what your top normal overclock is, and whether you have a QNIX or X-Star monitor.
> 5) If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.
> 
> Anyone who is willing to do this test, please feel free to just send me the results in a PM, unless your results are really interesting! No need to clutter up the thread.


Have you done it in yours?


----------



## fluffysheap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Have you done it in yours?


As far as I know, it's still in Korea, but I will (and post the results) when it gets here.


----------



## OneGun

Ok i changed my BF3 settings to high instead of ultra and i ran it at 120hz..There is a noticeable difference in my opinion..As it took me a second to adjust my aim cause the mouse movement was so much smoother..I was going past my target as at 60hz or even 96hz the mouse is a lil more sluggish..Anyways the lowest my Frames got to was 110..Time to OC my card so i can run ultra at 120hz..

And the brightness did not really bother me that much...


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ok i changed my BF3 settings to high instead of ultra and i ran it at 120hz..There is a noticeable difference in my opinion..As it took me a second to adjust my aim cause the mouse movement was so much smoother..I was going past my target as at 60hz or even 96hz the mouse is a lil more sluggish..Anyways the lowest my Frames got to was 110..Time to OC my card so i can run ultra at 120hz..
> 
> And the brightness did not really bother me that much...


Nice. I will try it also, then. Which color profile you find best for 120Hz? Thanks for the input


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Nice. I will try it also, then. Which color profile you find best for 120Hz? Thanks for the input


I have been using the Menacing Tuba 96hz one..And i was 17 clicks from bottom brightness..


----------



## GoldenTiger

Yep, I was able to tell a big change while I had my 670 OC, in smoothness between 60, 96, and 120hz when the framerate matched by adjusting visual settings. My 780 ACX SC is due in this week, should be a nice fit for now.


----------



## self_slaughter

Mines happy on 120hz.
Nice and bright and colourful like it should be








I used one of the 120hz colour profiles from the first post but I upped the brightness from 12 clicks to 16 or something just to make my eyes burn a bit









Really need a pretty powerful machine for that res at those frames though.
I thought 2560x1440 would be a piece of piss for dual gtx 670s since my 7970 handled 6048x1200 no worries.

Surprisingly I still need to drop a few settings to maintain 120fps in some games.
Friggin garbage overpriced nvidia crap lol


----------



## Gilgam3sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> Mines happy on 120hz.
> Nice and bright and colourful like it should be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used one of the 120hz colour profiles from the first post but I upped the brightness from 12 clicks to 16 or something just to make my eyes burn a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really need a pretty powerful machine for that res at those frames though.
> I thought 2560x1440 would be a piece of piss for dual gtx 670s since my 7970 handled 6048x1200 no worries.
> 
> Surprisingly I still need to drop a few settings to maintain 120fps in some games.
> Friggin garbage overpriced nvidia crap lol


670 only have 2GB VRAM, HD7970 3GB thats why..


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> For anyone that OCs there monitor to watch a blu ray,...Get a tv...


be mature or ****
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> smoothness in gaming 96hz vs 120hz? can you tell a difference??


I didn't check too much, both 96 and 120 were too blurry for me anyway.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> be mature or ****
> I didn't check too much, both 96 and 120 were too blurry for me anyway.


lol I was Jst saying that you don't see many people saying. I can't wait to get my monitor and OC it so I can watch blu ray's...


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Got my reply from Hulustar, so shipping to Belgium is not free









So it would be 317$ + 40$ shipping = 357$ or currently 276 Euros. I guess it's still a great deal. I sooo hope that I won't have to pay any tax.
He said he would put a different value on the box and if I wanted refurbished.

So what value should I pick? 100-125$?
If I remember correctly for Belgium it applies that if you are between 28$ and 195$ you only have to pay tax and no import fee (tax is 21%). I also don't want to put a too low value because they won't believe that


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Got my reply from Hulustar, so shipping to Belgium is not free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it would be 317$ + 40$ shipping = 357$ or currently 276 Euros. I guess it's still a great deal. I sooo hope that I won't have to pay any tax.
> He said he would put a different value on the box and if I wanted refurbished.
> 
> So what value should I pick? 100-125$?
> If I remember correctly for Belgium it applies that if you are between 28$ and 195$ you only have to pay tax and no import fee (tax is 21%). I also don't want to put a too low value because they won't believe that


119.99 sounds good..


----------



## self_slaughter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilgam3sh*
> 
> 670 only have 2GB VRAM, HD7970 3GB thats why..


*****, I think I only ever saw the 7970 go over 2gb ram once when i was running 6048x1200 resolution...
2gb is not a problem, 670s just lack the raw grunt of a 7970.
And the fact my 670s don't overclock and my old 7970 could do 1380mhz on the core it wasn't really a far comparison to begin with lol.

I'll probably be all over the 8970s whenever they come out though. Probably give the 780 a miss unless they get a fair bit cheaper.

edit: Holy ****! It censored the **** out of L.M.F.A.O hahaha... what a bunch of ****s, censor this!


----------



## fagoatse

Anybody got a 96Hz profile for a matte screen that hasn't been posted in the OT yet?
None of them look right here tbh : /
Either too bright/washed out(dascth) or too dark/warm.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> *****, I think I only ever saw the 7970 go over 2gb ram once when i was running 6048x1200 resolution...
> 2gb is not a problem, 670s just lack the raw grunt of a 7970.
> And the fact my 670s don't overclock and my old 7970 could do 1380mhz on the core it wasn't really a far comparison to begin with lol.
> 
> I'll probably be all over the 8970s whenever they come out though. Probably give the 780 a miss unless they get a fair bit cheaper.
> 
> edit: Holy ****! It censored the **** out of L.M.F.A.O hahaha... what a bunch of ****s, censor this!


who censored you?


----------



## Jinru

Do any of you know of a simply software that will flip the monitors brightness to different settings? I have the Qnix at 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness. That's fine during the day, but I'd like to drop it down to 7 clicks during the night and it's tedious having to manually hit the button everyday, I used to use F.lux, but that software removes your custom icc profile so that's a no go.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Do any of you know of a simply software that will flip the monitors brightness to different settings? I have the Qnix at 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness. That's fine during the day, but I'd like to drop it down to 7 clicks during the night and it's tedious having to manually hit the button everyday, I used to use F.lux, but that software removes your custom icc profile so that's a no go.


Stop being lazy and press the button.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Do you have graphic card power to show 120 frames per second in most current games at 1400p? I know I dont
> Have you done it in yours?


Yes 670 sli 1300Mhz. With 1440p I can run no AA or 2XAA minimum and whilst I don't get a constant 120Hz unless I drop down the image quality (which I'm not willing to do as there is no point) The games I play maxed stay above 60FPS and all depend on scenario and scaling.


----------



## Lazdaa

Did you guys completely removed the 2 screws at the bottom? Or did you just loosened them?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Did you guys completely removed the 2 screws at the bottom? Or did you just loosened them?


Do you mean to open the display? If so, there's four screws/


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Do you mean to open the display? If so, there's four screws/


No i mean like this guy did. Sounds like he completely removed the screws. But wouldn't that have impact on the display's stability?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Oh yeah it is definitely a lot better w/out the middle screws. This also has helped the issue where the taskbar icons in the middle were lower down than those closer to the edges (damn near cut off on very bottom). Interesting that they can be "too tight" and causing these problems.


I also have the taskbar issue.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> No i mean like this guy did. Sounds like he completely removed the screws. But wouldn't that have impact on the display's stability?
> I also have the taskbar issue.


been wondering about that however those screws arent doing anything in reality
I doubt it'd help though. Majority of light bleeding is caused by the metal frame around the panel.


----------



## lee63

Just ordered a Qnix QX2710, should be here this week, I think I'm going to use an after market mount and wondering the stock stand is easy to take off and what size screws to use.

Is there any know issues I should be aware of ? I will be running this monitor with a GTX 780, so I'm hoping the OCing will be decent.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ok i changed my BF3 settings to high instead of ultra and i ran it at 120hz..There is a noticeable difference in my opinion..As it took me a second to adjust my aim cause the mouse movement was so much smoother..I was going past my target as at 60hz or even 96hz the mouse is a lil more sluggish..Anyways the lowest my Frames got to was 110..Time to OC my card so i can run ultra at 120hz..
> 
> And the brightness did not really bother me that much...


Really? Not bad for a 7950 even at High...though I guess that is no AA too. I definitely require some AA even with this pixel density. MSAA for that matter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> who censored you?


That would be the profanity filter. I hate profanity filters though I guess I see why in place; could be kids here. TPU does not have one, for the record, and most do not abuse. It's nice to be able to drop an f-bomb when it's warranted IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> No i mean like this guy did. Sounds like he completely removed the screws. But wouldn't that have impact on the display's stability?
> I also have the taskbar issue.


Yeah it's just that the bezel is way too tight against the panel with the two middle screws in (lifts up onto the screen more in the middle than the edges). So removing them did not actually move the panel in any way but it did make the lower part of the taskbar more visible as the bezel is extended outwards away from the screen a slight bit now (can see the top of the frame if I peek down in there now).

I did completely remove them; may try just loose. My bleed not *gone* now but the two spots on bottom around the logo less bright and don't stretch as high. I think I will try taking the other two out as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Just ordered a Qnix QX2710, should be here this week, I think I'm going to use an after market mount and wondering the stock stand is easy to take off and what size screws to use.
> 
> Is there any know issues I should be aware of ? I will be running this monitor with a GTX 780, so I'm hoping the OCing will be decent.


Start by checking all the info in the first post of this thread. You will also find a link to a video series that shows you how to take it all apart. Removing the stand more difficult and involved that most monitors but certainly can be done.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah it's just that the bezel is way too tight against the panel with the two middle screws in (lifts up onto the screen more in the middle than the edges). So removing them did not actually move the panel in any way but it did make the lower part of the taskbar more visible as the bezel is extended outwards a slight bit now (can see the top of the frame if I peek down in there now).
> 
> I did completely remove them; may try just loose. My bleed not *gone* now but the two spots on bottom around the logo less bright and don't stretch as high. I think I will try taking the other two out as well.


I loosened mine, not sure if it made a difference but i think the taskbar is more visible now. My BLB is not visible under normal circumstances so that's not an issue.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cool. I definitely notice a difference there. Middle icons were almost cut off and now there is about an eighth of an inch of taskbar visible below them as on the sides.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> Mines happy on 120hz.
> Nice and bright and colourful like it should be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used one of the 120hz colour profiles from the first post but I upped the brightness from 12 clicks to 16 or something just to make my eyes burn a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really need a pretty powerful machine for that res at those frames though.


Mine's pretty much fully vibrant and colorful, but the top right area definitely becomes a little less so and a scrap dimmer, not anything I even notice while gaming (on the desktop I can tell if I'm staring at a color block to compare, but I just switch it to 96hz for desktop use anyway since 120 is hardly needed there and I want the uniformity). I just put the brightness up a few notches and it looks great still (from 96hz going to 120hz).


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cool. I definitely notice a difference there. Middle icons were almost cut off and now there is about an eighth of an inch of taskbar visible below them as on the sides.


Hm, I thought it was my imagination originally but I have the same issue I think. The left and right are great on the bottom but in the middle it is definitely a tidbit beneath the bezel (maybe 2-4 pixels at most). So you just popped open the monitor and loosened the two screws towards the middle of the frame (no panel removal/etc. needed)? How big are the screws (normal phillips, notebook-sized small, etc.)? It doesn't particularly bother me other than that I know it's there







.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Just took off the base, laid the screen down on a towel and unscrewed them all the way out. Standard phillips about medium-sized though the screwdriver itself can't be too thick in order to spin in there.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Hm, I thought it was my imagination originally but I have the same issue I think. The left and right are great on the bottom but in the middle it is definitely a tidbit beneath the bezel (maybe 2-4 pixels at most). So you just popped open the monitor and loosened the two screws towards the middle of the frame (no panel removal/etc. needed)? How big are the screws (normal phillips, notebook-sized small, etc.)? It doesn't particularly bother me other than that I know it's there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You won't be able to fix it properly w/o the tape mod though. It's easy enough and I highly recommend it.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Wait... so you do or don't need to remove the bezel if you're doing just the unscrewing? It honestly doesn't bother me very much at all and I never notice it unless I remember it's there and purposefully look for it. I don't want to take any risk of damaging the panel considering mine's a nice 120hz oc'er, for something this minor. I'll probably get tempted though and do it anyway soonish...


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Wait... so you do or don't need to remove the bezel if you're doing just the unscrewing? It honestly doesn't bother me very much at all and I never notice it unless I remember it's there and purposefully look for it. I don't want to take any risk of damaging the panel considering mine's a nice 120hz oc'er, for something this minor. I'll probably get tempted though and do it anyway soonish...


No you dont, there are 4 screws on the back.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> You won't be able to fix it properly w/o the tape mod though. It's easy enough and I highly recommend it.


That depends on what you are trying to fix exactly (and also everyones issues be it bleed or whatever aren't caused by the exact same thing). Yes this is not the end-all fix for bleed but it did lessen my two bright spots bottom middle. It also definitely helps if you notice the lower part of the screen is cut off from view more in the middle than the sides.

And they are all pretty much "nice 120Hz overclockers", for the record.


----------



## derfer

Got mine. Bleeds all around. Is it normal for it to be so bowed? When I put something flat flush along the center there's a half centimeter gap on either side. This housing is a joke.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> That depends on what you are trying to fix exactly (and also everyones issues be it bleed or whatever aren't caused by the exact same thing). Yes this is not the end-all fix for bleed but it did lessen my two bright spots bottom middle. It also definitely helps if you notice the lower part of the screen is cut off from view more in the middle than the sides.
> 
> And they are all pretty much "nice 120Hz overclockers", for the record.


I know they do often reach 120 (I was stating that because I have seen some not reach more than 105-110 in the thread), but since my panel is in my hands, pixel-perfect, and oc's to 120, as well as having minimal backlight bleed (basically none), I don't want to risk damaging it (and obviously I'd be out the money if I damaged it). Hence the wording "nice 120hz overclocker" because the panel is solid and it was briefer to say that than explain it all in mid-sentence







.

Anyway, thanks for the info...


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Got mine. Bleeds all around. Is it normal for it to be so bowed? When I put something flat flush along the center there's a half centimeter gap on either side. This housing is a joke.


Who did you purchase it from?


----------



## monkeys

A few question concerning Onix Q2710...got one on the way from Busan

1) What length is the DVI cable supplied?
2) What type of mains cable/connector that plugs into the brick? I am in the UK
3) How does Fed Ex charge taxes/vat? Before/after delivery..it seems indiscriminate what they charge.


----------



## majnu

Having problems with my monitor already. I have set the correct refresh rate in BF3's main menu but every time I die the screen goes black for a second and then comes back to life with the display signal.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Why can't I decide if I want glossy or matte









I think matte is going to win though. also I'm into photo processing (lightroom/photoshop), I'm an amateur photographer, so I'm guessing a matte screen is more color correct.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Really? Not bad for a 7950 even at High...though I guess that is no AA too. I definitely require some AA even with this pixel density. MSAA for that matter.
> That would be the profanity filter. I hate profanity filters though I guess I see why in place; could be kids here. TPU does not have one, for the record, and most do not abuse. It's nice to be able to drop an f-bomb when it's warranted IMO.
> Yeah it's just that the bezel is way too tight against the panel with the two middle screws in (lifts up onto the screen more in the middle than the edges). So removing them did not actually move the panel in any way but it did make the lower part of the taskbar more visible as the bezel is extended outwards away from the screen a slight bit now (can see the top of the frame if I peek down in there now).
> 
> I did completely remove them; may try just loose. My bleed not *gone* now but the two spots on bottom around the logo less bright and don't stretch as high. I think I will try taking the other two out as well.
> Start by checking all the info in the first post of this thread. You will also find a link to a video series that shows you how to take it all apart. Removing the stand more difficult and involved that most monitors but certainly can be done.


No thats with 2x AA..I forgot to mention my cards are 7950 Boost cards..They run at 950 instead of 850..


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> A few question concerning Onix Q2710...got one on the way from Busan
> 
> 1) What length is the DVI cable supplied?
> 2) What type of mains cable/connector that plugs into the brick? I am in the UK
> 3) How does Fed Ex charge taxes/vat? Before/after delivery..it seems indiscriminate what they charge.


1.6 feet..2.The power cord that goes into the brick is the same one that plugs into your computer power supply.3.Sorry i am in the US and can't help you with this question..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Having problems with my monitor already. I have set the correct refresh rate in BF3's main menu but every time I die the screen goes black for a second and then comes back to life with the display signal.


You should try a better DVI cable..


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> A few question concerning Onix Q2710...got one on the way from Busan
> 
> 1) What length is the DVI cable supplied?
> 2) What type of mains cable/connector that plugs into the brick? I am in the UK
> 3) How does Fed Ex charge taxes/vat? Before/after delivery..it seems indiscriminate what they charge.


1) 6ft
2) Normal 'kettle' lead
3) After delivery: 20% VAT & about a tenner handling, they'll send you an invoice. Should be no customs charge.


----------



## specr1

Hi,

I'm looking for adjustable stands and I read in an earlier post, someone recommending this stand from monoprice

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105970-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369109337&sr=8-2&keywords=monoprice+stand#productDetails

has anyone actually bought and tried this stand?

Also, I can't seem to find it on the monoprice.com website.

Thank you


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specr1*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm looking for adjustable stands and I read in an earlier post, someone recommending this stand from monoprice
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105970-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369109337&sr=8-2&keywords=monoprice+stand#productDetails
> 
> has anyone actually bought and tried this stand?
> 
> Also, I can't seem to find it on the monoprice.com website.
> 
> Thank you


I have this stand and it works great. Very sturdy and well made. Here is the link to it on monoprice for HALF THE PRICE

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Having problems with my monitor already. I have set the correct refresh rate in BF3's main menu but every time I die the screen goes black for a second and then comes back to life with the display signal.


I have not seen this issue but for like Tomb Raider Anniversary the screen would freak out for like 5 minutes before loading the game. I found this issue got corrected by a clean install of the latest video drivers. Just saying it may not be JUST the monitor having problems. Check drivers, video settings, cables, game settings VS driver settings and so on. There is a LOT of variables at work between the monitor and your game not too mention i have heard tons of people having problems with BF3 out of the box without tweaking. Let us know what you find out just in case anyone else has this problem later on and try not to make blunt statements that the monitor is the only fail point.

EDIT1: Did a half second search in google and YOU ARE NOT THE ONLY ONE AN IT IS LIKELY NOT THE MONITOR. Here is a free reference to get you started but the rest of the research is in your hands
http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf3/forum/threadview/2832654489671066954/

EDIT2: I could not help myself and i did another half second search in google for you and found it is a Gfx bug in battlefield and is commonly fixed by deleting the APP config settings for BF3 Gfx and re-setting up the graphics settings in game.

Search before you post


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have not seen this issue but for like Tomb Raider Anniversary the screen would freak out for like 5 minutes before loading the game. I found this issue got corrected by a clean install of the latest video drivers. Just saying it may not be JUST the monitor having problems. Check drivers, video settings, cables, game settings VS driver settings and so on. There is a LOT of variables at work between the monitor and your game not too mention i have heard tons of people having problems with BF3 out of the box without tweaking. Let us know what you find out just in case anyone else has this problem later on and try not to make blunt statements that the monitor is the only fail point.
> 
> EDIT1: Did a half second search in google and YOU ARE NOT THE ONLY ONE AN IT IS LIKELY NOT THE MONITOR. Here is a free reference to get you started but the rest of the research is in your hands
> http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf3/forum/threadview/2832654489671066954/
> 
> EDIT2: I could not help myself and i did another half second search in google for you and found it is a Gfx bug in battlefield and is commonly fixed by deleting the APP config settings for BF3 Gfx and re-setting up the graphics settings in game.
> 
> Search before you post


Man, I'm not the one who had this problem but gave you a REP just because you are really helpful.

Can you please make the delivery guy come by and give me my monitor though? I can't even eat lunch and I'm getting hungry







Worse than waiting for cable guys because at least they give you a time frame.


----------



## specr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have this stand and it works great. Very sturdy and well made. Here is the link to it on monoprice for HALF THE PRICE
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2


Thank you,

I'm going to order them, but before I do that.

Is it hard to add these stands? The original stand needs to be removed first, is that hard to do?

EDIT: it says its good for 10~23 inch monitors, is that a problem for these 27 inch monitors? or is it just based on the weight limit of 33 lbs?


----------



## GiveMeHope

Are these VESA compliant? I'm planning to get three with a VESA mount.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Are these VESA compliant? I'm planning to get three with a VESA mount.


Yes they are..I believe they are 100x100 vesa mount size..


----------



## brightbus

Yup, 100x100, pretty easy to mount. Now taking out the stand piece from the monitor, requires a little bit of work.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> No thats with 2x AA..I forgot to mention my cards are 7950 Boost cards..They run at 950 instead of 850..


Ah that makes more sense. Based on your sig thought single 7950.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Yup, 100x100, pretty easy to mount. Now taking out the stand piece from the monitor, requires a little bit of work.


You have to take the monitor apart right ? is it just screws...hope its not like the Catleap


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ah that makes more sense. Based on your sig thought single 7950.


Does my sig only say one 7950?Do i need to fix it?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh I did not notice the two separate listings.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Oh I did not notice the two separate listings.


Ok cool..

So i loosened the 4 screws and bam....No more BLB in the bottom middle left next to the Qnix emblem..I have a pixel perfect no bad BLB monitor OCed monitor for $317..So glad i made this purchase...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specr1*
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> I'm going to order them, but before I do that.
> 
> Is it hard to add these stands? The original stand needs to be removed first, is that hard to do?
> 
> EDIT: it says its good for 10~23 inch monitors, is that a problem for these 27 inch monitors? or is it just based on the weight limit of 33 lbs?


They work with this monitor but you might not be able to put it into portrait due to the length/height when the monitor is up on end. The weight limit is not a problem either these do not weigh that much. Also the weight limit is in relation to the extension of the stand legs and the weight they can handle without falling forward. If you mount a monitor that exceeds the weight you can always clamp it down to the desk or add counter weight to the leg extensions.


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Who did you purchase it from?


A x-star from hulu. A few other observations so far -

Unlike my Crossover this NEEDS a profile, which is always bad because profiles continue to be incompatible with windows photo viewer (weird dithering and chromatic effects, or slow photo browsing, it's always bugged one way or another) and since there's never been a decent third party photo viewer that means you're just screwed, forced to run multiple viewers for multiple things. Right now I'm on fast picture viewer and nexus.

Another observation is the panel itself is perfect. Even colors, even though they're not naturally calibrated like my AW crossover, and no bad pixels or blemishes. This means I'll probably invest time into modding it to fix the bleed since at least it has potential. Or maybe I'll just keep the crossover. This thing even with a profile isn't impressing me with the IQ the way the crossover does.

I can't really complain about the base. Side to side wobble is worse than the 27q but better front to back.

The matte coating is only slightly visible if you focus. It's also only about 70% effective on glare. I wouldn't list it as a pro.

Oh and this bowing thing is giving me flash backs to the round crt days. I can't really picture what would be causing it going by the teardowns I've seen. It looks like the entirety of the housing, front and back panel, is bent by design. I can't be the only person to notice something that obvious?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ok cool..
> 
> So i loosened the 4 screws and bam....No more BLB in the bottom middle left next to the Qnix emblem..I have a pixel perfect no bad BLB monitor OCed monitor for $317..So glad i made this purchase...


Sweet dude I am going to require some taping too though I think. I also got a spot top right but don't really notice that one if not looking for it.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> 1) 6ft
> 2) Normal 'kettle' lead
> 3) After delivery: 20% VAT & about a tenner handling, they'll send you an invoice. Should be no customs charge.


Thanks Tesser & onegun,

Someone posted that a 1m (3ft) cable so was wrong, ok i have spare kettle/power supply ones as I'll prob get a non-uk one, someone posted £60 and £80 (us$120) tax charged by fedex (overcharge imo).


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> You have to take the monitor apart right ? is it just screws...hope its not like the Catleap


You do have to take it apart. The four screws on the bottom. Then something (preferably one of those electronic opening tools so you don't scratch up the bezel) to pop the monitor open. My first monitor was a breeze. The second one, the screws were torqued so tight, ended up stripping two of the screws. Still got it open though.


----------



## hamzatm

heh i got the £80 tax charge, dream-seller valued it truthfully.

no idea if it was overcharged. sucks!


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> heh i got the £80 tax charge, dream-seller valued it truthfully.
> 
> no idea if it was overcharged. sucks!


Felt the same way. What did he value it to? He put mine at 250$ and i don't think it said a gift anywhere on it even though i said he should ad that.

Was it also DHL whom shipped yours?


----------



## hamzatm

It was Fedex, (the one from dream-seller that got charged the horrendous £80)

I think he valued it like $200 or whatever it was. Can't quite remember now that I think about it. He didn't mark it as gift or anything!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Thanks Tesser & onegun,
> 
> Someone posted that a 1m (3ft) cable so was wrong, ok i have spare kettle/power supply ones as I'll prob get a non-uk one, someone posted £60 and £80 (us$120) tax charged by fedex (overcharge imo).


In the US we are not charged tax on these..Congress is trying to pass the law on EBAY to tax all americans depending on our state tax..But it has not passed yet.Mine was $317 total..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> In the US we are not charged tax on these..Congress is trying to pass the law on EBAY to tax all americans depending on our state tax..But it has not passed yet.Mine was $317 total..


Not just ebay, isn't it online shopping in general?


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have not seen this issue but for like Tomb Raider Anniversary the screen would freak out for like 5 minutes before loading the game. I found this issue got corrected by a clean install of the latest video drivers. Just saying it may not be JUST the monitor having problems. Check drivers, video settings, cables, game settings VS driver settings and so on. There is a LOT of variables at work between the monitor and your game not too mention i have heard tons of people having problems with BF3 out of the box without tweaking. Let us know what you find out just in case anyone else has this problem later on and try not to make blunt statements that the monitor is the only fail point.
> 
> EDIT1: Did a half second search in google and YOU ARE NOT THE ONLY ONE AN IT IS LIKELY NOT THE MONITOR. Here is a free reference to get you started but the rest of the research is in your hands
> http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf3/forum/threadview/2832654489671066954/
> 
> EDIT2: I could not help myself and i did another half second search in google for you and found it is a Gfx bug in battlefield and is commonly fixed by deleting the APP config settings for BF3 Gfx and re-setting up the graphics settings in game.
> 
> Search before you post


Thanks for that. It's been a month or so since I played bf3 and I should have realised DICE would have messed something up.
Also it's nice to see people getting 0 dead pixels, are you all buying pixel perfect monitors? Mine I had mistakenly classed the single pixel as dead, when in fact it is stuck green. I tried that UDPixel thing and left it running over the pixel but it didn't un-stick. Also after a couple of days I have to run CRU again as my custom refresh rate disappears.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Having problems with my monitor already. I have set the correct refresh rate in BF3's main menu but every time I die the screen goes black for a second and then comes back to life with the display signal.


That's unrelated to the monitor, it has happened to me on a notebook and a different panel on my desktop PC. It's a game glitch, I find that toggling HBAO to SSAO and then back (without even needing to save settings), then exitting the settings screen, generally fixes it for my session. Don't worry, your panel should be all good







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Not just ebay, isn't it online shopping in general?


Yup







. Tax hike for everyone in America who shops online...







.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Not just ebay, isn't it online shopping in general?


Not anymore as amazon now has to charge tax.. And I'm in California so I get charged tax when other states don't.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Not anymore as amazon now has to charge tax.. And I'm in California so I get charged tax when other states don't.


It depends on your state, many still only charge it if the company has a presence in your state.


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have this stand and it works great. Very sturdy and well made. Here is the link to it on monoprice for HALF THE PRICE
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2


Nah, you have to pay a big shipping fee there, so it's basically identical except Amazon is eligible for prime shipping.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> It depends on your state, many still only charge it if the company has a presence in your state.


but that will soon change as congress is trying to pass the law where all stares get charged sales tax.. And all the big box stores are the ones pushing for it so there won't be that big of a price difference.. Stupid I know.. That's why I jumped on this monitor fast before I had to pay tax..


----------



## GoldenTiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> but that will soon change as congress is trying to pass the law where all stares get charged sales tax.. And all the big box stores are the ones pushing for it so there won't be that big of a price difference.. Stupid I know.. That's why I jumped on this monitor fast before I had to pay tax..


Yep, more tax raises in America, JUST what we needed.... /sarcasm.


----------



## derfer

Really torn on this thing. Overclocking it was easy and effective using the evga tool, and I could tell the difference right away, but when I test it out I noticed the ICC profiles don't even work with games. Every time you have a monitor that needs a calibration profile it just turns into a huge pain in the ass.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Uh not sure what you mean by that. Colors looks fantastic for me both in 2D and 3D. I now realize BF3 doesn't have a dull palette after all.

Besides the colors aren't awful out of the box they can just be made a lot better.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenTiger*
> 
> Yep, more tax raises in America, JUST what we needed.... /sarcasm.


Yeah I am as unhappy about it as the next internet shopper but it really does put B&M retailers at a serious disadvantage. In states like Washington which border those with no sale tax (Oregon) they will actually stop and fine people going across the bridge with big ticket items like TVs in their cars in order to protect Washington retailers and thus tax revenues. They can't find them all but it does happen. And I always knew it was inevitable on the net anyway.

This wouldn't effect stuff bought from eBay though. Especially from overseas.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah I am as unhappy about it as the next internet shopper but it really does put B&M retailers at a serious disadvantage. And I always knew it was inevitable.
> 
> This wouldn't effect stuff bought from eBay though. Especially from overseas.


Actually that's part of it also. I was reading they are going to start charging sales tax to where the item is shipped. Even if it is from another country.. Hopefully it doesn't go through..


----------



## OneGun

Double phone post


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah that is different than how sales tax traditionally works. Meh. Anyway, wrong thread.


----------



## derfer

I mean when you start a game it disregards your color profile. Luckily I found "monitor calibration wizard" which will force whatever profile you have set to default even during gaming.

Given the extreme variation in profiles I'm seeing I wouldn't be surprised if some people got ones with a naturally accurate panel but I doubt that's the case for most. Mine was a far cry from my 27q out of box. Mine is ok now with the "MenacingTuba" profile.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Note it is important to have the gamma controls activated as well. This may not be related to your issue but is an important part of this process I did not know aobut originally (and is not at all intuitive or obvious). Before I did this there was not much difference with the various profiles; just some basic color shifts.
Quote:


> You will also need to enable the profiles gamma correction.
> 
> Go into the advanced tab. You need to select "use Windows display calibration" but it is greyed out initially.
> 
> Click "change system defaults" and a new window pops up which looks the same as the previous one
> 
> Click on "advanced" tab and you should be able to tick "use Windows display calibration" from there. You should see a change in the screens gamma as the corrections from the profile are loaded.


http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#install

And are you talking about this?

http://www.hex2bit.com/products/product_mcw.asp


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

I was just shown how to do 120hz with no image fidelity loss. I was told this by someone and I am not sure if they want me to keep it a secret, but it is possible and it is amazing. I would go as far as to say it looks better than at 60hz with the fix he game me.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> I was just shown how to do 120hz with no image fidelity loss. I was told this by someone and I am not sure if they want me to keep it a secret, but it is possible and it is amazing. I would go as far as to say it looks better than at 60hz with the fix he game me.


Why would you tell us this and not sure with us?


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> I was just shown how to do 120hz with no image fidelity loss. I was told this by someone and I am not sure if they want me to keep it a secret, but it is possible and it is amazing. I would go as far as to say it looks better than at 60hz with the fix he game me.


sounds like bull


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> sounds like bull


I agree sir.....


----------



## fluffysheap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> I was just shown how to do 120hz with no image fidelity loss. I was told this by someone and I am not sure if they want me to keep it a secret, but it is possible and it is amazing. I would go as far as to say it looks better than at 60hz with the fix he game me.


He just did the procedure I asked about this morning. What I was looking for was a way to create a still picture interval during which a strobed backlight could operate. But, as a happy accident, apparently this also makes the gamma shift go away. I wouldn't have been surprised if the gamma shift had been reduced at 90Hz (it's still 90Hz after all, even with a high pixel clock), but to have it happen at 120Hz surprises me. Still, if it works, it works.

I am concerned that there might be some frame dropping going on, but I won't be able to check it out myself until my monitor gets here. /me rubs cheetah blood on the DHL guy


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> He just did the procedure I asked about this morning. What I was looking for was a way to create a still picture interval during which a strobed backlight could operate. But, as a happy accident, apparently this also makes the gamma shift go away. I wouldn't have been surprised if the gamma shift had been reduced at 90Hz (it's still 90Hz after all, even with a high pixel clock), but to have it happen at 120Hz surprises me. Still, if it works, it works.
> 
> I am concerned that there might be some frame dropping going on, but I won't be able to check it out myself until my monitor gets here. /me rubs cheetah blood on the DHL guy


Hmm I have no idea what you are talking about, but I hope it works and that easy instructions are created for people like me.

On another note, I am still waiting for my delivery of the monitor as well


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> He just did the procedure I asked about this morning. What I was looking for was a way to create a still picture interval during which a strobed backlight could operate. But, as a happy accident, apparently this also makes the gamma shift go away. I wouldn't have been surprised if the gamma shift had been reduced at 90Hz (it's still 90Hz after all, even with a high pixel clock), but to have it happen at 120Hz surprises me. Still, if it works, it works.
> 
> I am concerned that there might be some frame dropping going on, but I won't be able to check it out myself until my monitor gets here. /me rubs cheetah blood on the DHL guy


Can you please tell us exactly how he did it?


----------



## finalheaven

Well, I just received my monitor.

Good News: no dead pixels

Bad news: horrible back light bleed. (removing 2 middle screws did nothing)



So since the simple removal of 2 middle screws did not work, would I need to detach the monitor and do the tape mod?


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Well, I just received my monitor.
> 
> Good News: no dead pixels
> 
> Bad news: horrible back light bleed. (removing 2 middle screws did nothing)
> 
> 
> 
> So since the simple removal of 2 middle screws did not work, would I need to detach the monitor and do the tape mod?


]

photo.jpg sketchy as ****, lol

I make them return it


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Can you please tell us exactly how he did it?


This was all fluffy sheap

I downloaded CRU, made a custom profile 96hz at 2560x1440 restarted my computer and it was at 96hz(according to cru and ac3)
Then I increased my vertical pixel total using to 1850 by editing my custom profile, Restarted my comp and OMG it was 96hz with a comparably bright screen to 60hz(a little darker) I checked again in ac3 and it said 120 hz was the max my monitor could do. I then went crazy and tried 2000 vert, again my brightness went up even more then I tried 120hz and it worked! My monitor is a beast before and does 133 hz without lines 144 does not work. THANK FLUFFY HE NEEDS A STATUE


----------



## fluffysheap

Here are the revised detailed instructions:

1) Fire up ToastyX CRU or whatever you use for custom timings. (get CRU here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU)
2) You should probably create a new detailed resolution definition to experiment with for this.
3) Set the new definition's refresh rate to your choice of 120Hz or 90Hz (Try 120Hz first if your monitor is known to work at that rate). I'd still be interested in 90Hz results for people that don't get good results at 120Hz. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the total vertical rows. Depending on your tool, this is either the "back porch," "blanking interval," or the "total lines" or "total rows."
4) Increase the vertical rows or back porch by 75-100.
5) Use your video control panel to make sure your monitor is using the custom video mode you just defined.
6) Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the rows are "enough." If you're setting total lines, aim for about 1850-1950 total lines. If you're setting the blanking interval or back porch, you want about 400-500. At 90Hz, this is roughly the same pixel clock* as normal [email protected] At 120Hz, this is some absurdly fast timing that I have to see to believe, heh. Feild Scarecrow reported 2000 total lines @120Hz.
7) Let us know how it goes, how many lines you reached, what video card and monitor (QNIX vs X-Star) you have and if your picture quality improved, got worse, or stayed the same.
8) If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.

If you need more than that you'll have to ask Scarecrow, since he was the one that actually did it! But I don't think he did anything else besides what is here.

* basically, the signal bandwidth going over the DVI connection


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> Here are the revised detailed instructions:
> 
> 1) Fire up ToastyX CRU or whatever you use for custom timings. (get CRU here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU)
> 2) You should probably create a new detailed resolution definition to experiment with for this.
> 3) Set the new definition's refresh rate to your choice of 120Hz or 90Hz (Try 120Hz first if your monitor is known to work at that rate). I'd still be interested in 90Hz results for people that don't get good results at 120Hz. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the total vertical rows. Depending on your tool, this is either the "back porch," "blanking interval," or the "total lines" or "total rows."
> 4) Increase the vertical rows or back porch by 75-100.
> 5) Use your video control panel to make sure your monitor is using the custom video mode you just defined.
> 6) Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the rows are "enough." If you're setting total lines, aim for about 1850-1950 total lines. If you're setting the blanking interval or back porch, you want about 400-500. At 90Hz, this is roughly the same pixel clock* as normal [email protected] At 120Hz, this is some absurdly fast timing that I have to see to believe, heh. Feild Scarecrow reported 2000 total lines @120Hz.
> 7) Let us know how it goes, how many lines you reached, what video card and monitor (QNIX vs X-Star) you have and if your picture quality improved, got worse, or stayed the same.
> 8) If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.
> 
> If you need more than that you'll have to ask Scarecrow, since he was the one that actually did it! But I don't think he did anything else besides what is here.
> 
> * basically, the signal bandwidth going over the DVI connection


Don't you have to reboot before you change the lines again ?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Well, I just received my monitor.
> 
> Good News: no dead pixels
> 
> Bad news: horrible back light bleed. (removing 2 middle screws did nothing)
> 
> So since the simple removal of 2 middle screws did not work, would I need to detach the monitor and do the tape mod?


Damn ya a lot. Really bright. Can't believe the screws did nothing but that's a lot on the top too. Yep tape (which you might already be doing as I type this).


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Damn ya a lot. Really bright. Can't believe the screws did nothing but that's a lot on the top too. Yep tape (which you might already be doing as I type this).


I am trying to but it is very difficult to take off the cover. Using a small flathead, i can take off the bottom but the sides are impossible...


----------



## finalheaven

Ok I took off the cover but I don't know how to detach the screen from the assembly itself since the backlight and the screen seem to be one assembly. I can't seem to find it on the youtube as well. Does anyone have some pictures/other links?


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Don't you have to reboot before you change the lines again ?


I did, if you restart the software it reads reboot required after changing settings


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> Here are the revised detailed instructions:
> 
> 1) Fire up ToastyX CRU or whatever you use for custom timings. (get CRU here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU)
> 2) You should probably create a new detailed resolution definition to experiment with for this.
> 3) Set the new definition's refresh rate to your choice of 120Hz or 90Hz (Try 120Hz first if your monitor is known to work at that rate). I'd still be interested in 90Hz results for people that don't get good results at 120Hz. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the total vertical rows. Depending on your tool, this is either the "back porch," "blanking interval," or the "total lines" or "total rows."
> 4) Increase the vertical rows or back porch by 75-100.
> 5) Use your video control panel to make sure your monitor is using the custom video mode you just defined.
> 6) Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the rows are "enough." If you're setting total lines, aim for about 1850-1950 total lines. If you're setting the blanking interval or back porch, you want about 400-500. At 90Hz, this is roughly the same pixel clock* as normal [email protected] At 120Hz, this is some absurdly fast timing that I have to see to believe, heh. Feild Scarecrow reported 2000 total lines @120Hz.
> 7) Let us know how it goes, how many lines you reached, what video card and monitor (QNIX vs X-Star) you have and if your picture quality improved, got worse, or stayed the same.
> 8) If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.
> 
> If you need more than that you'll have to ask Scarecrow, since he was the one that actually did it! But I don't think he did anything else besides what is here.
> 
> * basically, the signal bandwidth going over the DVI connection


Can you like print screen or something?You might as well be speaking spanish as i have no idea what you are talking about..


----------



## derfer

Am I right in thinking max brightness gets rid of the pwm eye strain?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Am I right in thinking max brightness gets rid of the pwm eye strain?


These should not be PWM..


----------



## derfer

Thought you had to hunt around to find displays without that, like how they talk it up here as a special thing - http://www.overclock.net/t/1335088/viewsonic-vp2770-2560x1440-semi-glossy-pls-club


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Thought you had to hunt around to find displays without that, like how they talk it up here as a special thing - http://www.overclock.net/t/1335088/viewsonic-vp2770-2560x1440-semi-glossy-pls-club


The only 27in ips monitor I know that uses it is the Asus PB278Q


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Can you like print screen or something?You might as well be speaking spanish as i have no idea what you are talking about..


No offense intended but if you cannot figure out ANYTHING he just posted you might want to read a LOT more before overclocking anything.


----------



## fluffysheap

Here are the revised detailed instructions, with screenshots









1) Fire up ToastyX CRU. (get CRU here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU)
2) If you have more than one monitor, make sure you have the right one selected in the dropdown. Edit the existing detailed resolution, which should be 2560x1440x60. Then push the 'copy' button to copy the timings. Your numbers will be different from mine because I'm making the screenshots on a different kind of monitor.

3) If you have any established or standard resolutions, other than 640x480x60, you can go ahead and uncheck/delete them. Then add a new detailed resolution.

4) Paste the timings into the new resolution. Then, set the refresh rate to 120Hz (or 90Hz if you think your monitor can't do 120).

5) Edit the back porch to be a larger number. The target is 500, which I think is more likely to work at 90Hz. Still, I'm interested in knowing how good the results are at either refresh rate.

6) Click 'OK' to everything and reboot.
7) Use your video control panel to set your monitor to the new custom video mode and see how it goes.
8) Repeat steps 5-7 until you have "enough." At 90Hz, 500 back porch is about the same pixel clock as normal [email protected] At 120Hz, this is very very fast. Feild Scarecrow reported 2000 total lines @120Hz (about the equivalent of a 550 back porch). You should probably increase by about 100 rows at a time if you are doing 120Hz, but at 90Hz you probably don't have to bother if you have already done 120Hz with ordinary timings.

Let us know how it goes, how many lines you reached, what video card and monitor (QNIX vs X-Star) you have and if your picture quality improved, got worse, or stayed the same. If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> Here are the revised detailed instructions, with screenshots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Fire up ToastyX CRU. (get CRU here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU)
> 2) If you have more than one monitor, make sure you have the right one selected in the dropdown. Edit the existing detailed resolution, which should be 2560x1440x60. Then push the 'copy' button to copy the timings. Your numbers will be different from mine because I'm making the screenshots on a different kind of monitor.
> 
> 3) If you have any established or standard resolutions, other than 640x480x60, you can go ahead and uncheck/delete them. Then add a new detailed resolution.
> 
> 4) Paste the timings into the new resolution. Then, set the refresh rate to 120Hz (or 90Hz if you think your monitor can't do 120).
> 
> 5) Edit the back porch to be a larger number. The target is 500, which I think is more likely to work at 90Hz. Still, I'm interested in knowing how good the results are at either refresh rate.
> 
> 6) Click 'OK' to everything and reboot.
> 7) Use your video control panel to set your monitor to the new custom video mode and see how it goes.
> 8) Repeat steps 5-7 until you have "enough." At 90Hz, 500 back porch is about the same pixel clock as normal [email protected] At 120Hz, this is very very fast. Feild Scarecrow reported 2000 total lines @120Hz (about the equivalent of a 550 back porch). You should probably increase by about 100 rows at a time if you are doing 120Hz, but at 90Hz you probably don't have to bother if you have already done 120Hz without the long blanking.
> 
> Let us know how it goes, how many lines you reached, what video card and monitor (QNIX vs X-Star) you have and if your picture quality improved, got worse, or stayed the same. If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.


All i have to say is awesome


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> No offense intended but if you cannot figure out ANYTHING he just posted you might want to read a LOT more before overclocking anything.


I did not understand the value i was suppose to change..Get some respect kid!!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> Here are the revised detailed instructions, with screenshots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Fire up ToastyX CRU. (get CRU here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU)
> 2) If you have more than one monitor, make sure you have the right one selected in the dropdown. Edit the existing detailed resolution, which should be 2560x1440x60. Then push the 'copy' button to copy the timings. Your numbers will be different from mine because I'm making the screenshots on a different kind of monitor.
> 
> 3) If you have any established or standard resolutions, other than 640x480x60, you can go ahead and uncheck/delete them. Then add a new detailed resolution.
> 
> 4) Paste the timings into the new resolution. Then, set the refresh rate to 120Hz (or 90Hz if you think your monitor can't do 120).
> 
> 5) Edit the back porch to be a larger number. The target is 500, which I think is more likely to work at 90Hz. Still, I'm interested in knowing how good the results are at either refresh rate.
> 
> 6) Click 'OK' to everything and reboot.
> 7) Use your video control panel to set your monitor to the new custom video mode and see how it goes.
> 8) Repeat steps 5-7 until you have "enough." At 90Hz, 500 back porch is about the same pixel clock as normal [email protected] At 120Hz, this is very very fast. Feild Scarecrow reported 2000 total lines @120Hz (about the equivalent of a 550 back porch). You should probably increase by about 100 rows at a time if you are doing 120Hz, but at 90Hz you probably don't have to bother if you have already done 120Hz without the long blanking.
> 
> Let us know how it goes, how many lines you reached, what video card and monitor (QNIX vs X-Star) you have and if your picture quality improved, got worse, or stayed the same. If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.


Thank you sir..I just needed to know which value you were changing..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I did not understand the value i was suppose to change..Get some respect kid!!!!
> Thank you sir..I just needed to know which value you were changing..


Well if that was the case then fine(RESPECT) however you said he was speaking spanish to you which paints a very clearly different picture. Sorry you took offense after i said NO offense.

And calling people a kid is just ridiculous just saying


----------



## Hegro

Just wanted to report back about my monitor. Still extremely satisfied. Nothing has gone wrong and I have absolutely zero regrets about anything. If you are on the fence you should definitely buy one!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Just wanted to report back about my monitor. Still extremely satisfied. Nothing has gone wrong and I have absolutely zero regrets about anything. If you are on the fence you should definitely buy one!


Great to hear







How high did you overclock? Any troubles getting there?


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Great to hear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How high did you overclock? Any troubles getting there?


I haven't overclocked yet. Only running a 7950 so I don't think overclocking would really do all that much for me. Who knows though, might try it out one day however.


----------



## majnu

I'm going to buy a calibration tool. Whilst brightness and contrast is fine for all the ICC profiles the rgb hue, saturation and balance is far of neutral for my monitor.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I did not understand the value i was suppose to change..Get some respect kid!!!!
> Thank you sir..I just needed to know which value you were changing..


Anyone else tried this yet they can speak about the results?
Thanks


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Aaaaaahhh, I did it just purchased the Qnix from Hulustar, omg omg omg. I can't believe I just did that. I hope everything goes well.

I did go for the glossy one. Tested it out yesterday with my macbook and had no problems. My blinds are closed most of the time when I'm on my computer so. I just love the glossy effect, makes everthing even more pretty.

Now I'm gonna search for a wallmount, should I take one that I can move or just plane on the wall?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Anyone else tried this yet they can speak about the results?
> Thanks


I tried it at 120hz and got green lines..I was able to do 90hz at 500 back porch settings and the color was the same as when i use 120hz..So for me it did nothing.But i probably did it wrong since i have no idea what i am doing..


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Follow up question about the wallmount. I want it to be slim on the wall like a painting. The screen will be big enough so I don't think I will need to pull it closer to me.

So here's 4 mounts I'm considering

1. http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W110&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0

2. http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W25&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0

3. http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W50&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0

4. http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W815&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0

The first 3 are fixed, can't move the monitor, the only difference I guess is that one is a few mm's more away from the wall.
The 4th one you can tilt/swivel and turn, but it's 9cm's from the wall.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Follow up question about the wallmount. I want it to be slim on the wall like a painting. The screen will be big enough so I don't think I will need to pull it closer to me.
> 
> So here's 4 mounts I'm considering
> 
> 1. http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W110&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0
> 
> 2. http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W25&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0
> 
> 3. http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W50&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0
> 
> 4. http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W815&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0
> 
> The first 3 are fixed, can't move the monitor, the only difference I guess is that one is a few mm's more away from the wall.
> The 4th one you can tilt/swivel and turn, but it's 9cm's from the wall.


I would go with the 4th one..There is a box in the back of the monitor so its going to be a little bit away from the wall anyways..You see the square in the back that sticks out..


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I would go with the 4th one..There is a box in the back of the monitor so its going to be a little bit away from the wall anyways..You see the square in the back that sticks out..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hhmm yes, but it's minimal

If I take the 4th one might as well pick this, just saw it, it's 5€ more and you get longer arm

http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W825&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hhmm yes, but it's minimal
> 
> If I take the 4th one might as well pick this, just saw it, it's 5€ more and you get longer arm
> 
> http://en.newstar.eu/products/artikeldetails/?artdetail=FPMA-W825&webgroupfilter=26&alstart=0


And when you are done using it looks like it will sit pretty flush to the wall..


----------



## Chrisoldinho

Do all of the Qnix QX2710 monitors overclock?

Also, there seems to be quite a few to choose from in the UK on ebay (I assume this is the best place to order one from?):-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=Qnix+QX2710&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=Qnix+QX2710&_sacat=0

Which one is the best to go with?

Thanks,
Chris.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> I haven't overclocked yet. Only running a 7950 so I don't think overclocking would really do all that much for me. Who knows though, might try it out one day however.


WIth a 7950 i would definitely overclock. I'm sitting with a 7850 and i can push around 80 FPS in bf3, with lowered settings ofc. But in other less demanding games like League, CS and stuff like that it looks just smoooooth


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisoldinho*
> 
> Do all of the Qnix QX2710 monitors overclock?
> 
> Also, there seems to be quite a few to choose from in the UK on ebay (I assume this is the best place to order one from?):-
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=Qnix+QX2710&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=Qnix+QX2710&_sacat=0
> 
> Which one is the best to go with?
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris.


Just make sure you get one with only a Dual Link DVI input..I have seen some newer ones with multiple inputs..And yes as of now they all can be OCed..


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I tried it at 120hz and got green lines..I was able to do 90hz at 500 back porch settings and the color was the same as when i use 120hz..So for me it did nothing.But i probably did it wrong since i have no idea what i am doing..


lol


----------



## OneGun

I just found a cool 120hz tester site..Thought i would share..Go to this site with your monitor set to 60hz..Set both baseballs to 120hz..Notice how they jump around and are blurry?Well change your monitor to 120hz and wow its amazing..And after looking at the baseballs at 120hz set your monitor back to 60hz..It looks horrible..I just thought i would share that..Also i don't really notice any motion blur..

http://frames-per-second.appspot.com/


----------



## Chrisoldinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Just make sure you get one with only a Dual Link DVI input..I have seen some newer ones with multiple inputs..And yes as of now they all can be OCed..


Thank you for the quick reply, so is there any reason to purchase a more expensive 2B Extreme / Overlord with the exception of it being a Samsung PLS panel as opposed to an LG IPS?

Chris.


----------



## hamzatm

None whatsoever


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I just found a cool 120hz tester site..Thought i would share..Go to this site with your monitor set to 60hz..Set both baseballs to 120hz..Notice how they jump around and are blurry?Well change your monitor to 120hz and wow its amazing..And after looking at the baseballs at 120hz set your monitor back to 60hz..It looks horrible..I just thought i would share that..Also i don't really notice any motion blur..
> 
> http://frames-per-second.appspot.com/


Good find

if anyone has a lightboost monitor you will see things you have never even imagined could be seen on a computer screen.


----------



## self_slaughter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I just found a cool 120hz tester site..Thought i would share..Go to this site with your monitor set to 60hz..Set both baseballs to 120hz..Notice how they jump around and are blurry?Well change your monitor to 120hz and wow its amazing..And after looking at the baseballs at 120hz set your monitor back to 60hz..It looks horrible..I just thought i would share that..Also i don't really notice any motion blur..
> 
> http://frames-per-second.appspot.com/


I'd try but I deleted any entries for 60Hz on my monitor









Had issues with some games still running 60Hz instead of 120 so I just removed the option so they had no choice


----------



## Heliar

Just noticed hulustar says on his "Pixel Perfect" monitors that they'll refund 5$ per pixel after 1. Does that mean he will not replace your monitor if there is a bunch of dead pixels?

They are all very vague with their return policies and what qualifies to get a replacement/postage refund. I'm now stuck between Green-Sum and Hulustar in terms of their return policies. Which one would you say is more reliable and communicative. The only thing I'm worried about is getting my postage refund unless they send some pre-paid sticker or whatever.

Does green-sum mark as gift with lower price?


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> Let us know how it goes, how many lines you reached, what video card and monitor (QNIX vs X-Star) you have and if your picture quality improved, got worse, or stayed the same. If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.


I have a X-Star. New timings at 90hz I was getting green lines across the screen. It looked like my standard timing 120hz lines. So it is probably the cable or my monitor just can't do it. I'm fine with standard 96hz anyway.


----------



## guitarwar241

So I finally got around to trying to fix my light bleed problem. However, when I took the bezel off, I noticed that the light bleed was being caused by the metal frame underneath pressing on the screen. I took a picture and circled the areas that are too tight on the screen. Any idea how to bend the frame up without damaging the screen? I tried doing it a little bit, but was getting really nervous about breaking it.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heliar*
> 
> Just noticed hulustar says on his "Pixel Perfect" monitors that they'll refund 5$ per pixel after 1. Does that mean he will not replace your monitor if there is a bunch of dead pixels?
> 
> They are all very vague with their return policies and what qualifies to get a replacement/postage refund. I'm now stuck between Green-Sum and Hulustar in terms of their return policies. Which one would you say is more reliable and communicative. The only thing I'm worried about is getting my postage refund unless they send some pre-paid sticker or whatever.
> 
> Does green-sum mark as gift with lower price?


I ordered from hulustar and I asked to mark the value at 119,99$ and put gift or refurbished. He/she suggested refurbished and was ok with the lower value.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> I'd try but I deleted any entries for 60Hz on my monitor


Well then you can never update your GPU drivers. Seriously, don't forget to put a 60Hz back before you do or you will find yourself reinstalling Windows (the new driver needs to be patched too etc and to do all that you need to be able to display 60Hz first).


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heliar*
> 
> Just noticed hulustar says on his "Pixel Perfect" monitors that they'll refund 5$ per pixel after 1. Does that mean he will not replace your monitor if there is a bunch of dead pixels?
> 
> They are all very vague with their return policies and what qualifies to get a replacement/postage refund. I'm now stuck between Green-Sum and Hulustar in terms of their return policies. Which one would you say is more reliable and communicative. The only thing I'm worried about is getting my postage refund unless they send some pre-paid sticker or whatever.
> 
> Does green-sum mark as gift with lower price?


yes he does, ask him


----------



## brightbus

Hmm was hoping my next monitor would come today..but no updates on the dhl site for a day, unlike my past 2 deliveries.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisoldinho*
> 
> Thank you for the quick reply, so is there any reason to purchase a more expensive 2B Extreme / Overlord with the exception of it being a Samsung PLS panel as opposed to an LG IPS?
> 
> Chris.


I have owned both, The reds are better on an IPS panel however you do not get as much contrast so it is contestable which one is better, I would go for qnix as it's overclock able. There is also the issue of a temporary burn in that sometimes happens but it goes away in 10 mins.


----------



## Paps.pt

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> I have owned both, The reds are better on an IPS panel however you do not get as much contrast so it is contestable which one is better, I would go for qnix as it's overclock able. There is also the issue of a temporary burn in that sometimes happens but it goes away in 10 mins.


I didn't notice any temtemporary burn yet


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I
> I didn't notice any temtemporary burn yet


Me either..


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarwar241*
> 
> So I finally got around to trying to fix my light bleed problem. However, when I took the bezel off, I noticed that the light bleed was being caused by the metal frame underneath pressing on the screen. I took a picture and circled the areas that are too tight on the screen. Any idea how to bend the frame up without damaging the screen? I tried doing it a little bit, but was getting really nervous about breaking it.


How did you come to the conclusion that it was the metal bar pushing down too hard? I'm trying to fix the yellow light bleed on my screen as well.

Otherwise I would just try very gently with my fingers to keep raising the metal bar. The metal bar gets easily bent with using screw drivers but I know its very close to the screen so you have to be careful since you don't want to use the screen as leverage in case on breaks


----------



## snub115

Hey guys im still on page 5 of this thread was just wanting some input on the monitor im about to get since my thread isnt seeing much of a response, its a Qnix QX2700 but with HDMI and IPS panel will it be alright in comparison the PLS variant or should i look elsewhere?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-QNIX-QX2700-LED-HDMI-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-LED-IPS-Computer-Monitor-/110999782383?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d81a43ef

Thanks


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarwar241*
> 
> So I finally got around to trying to fix my light bleed problem. However, when I took the bezel off, I noticed that the light bleed was being caused by the metal frame underneath pressing on the screen. I took a picture and circled the areas that are too tight on the screen. Any idea how to bend the frame up without damaging the screen? I tried doing it a little bit, but was getting really nervous about breaking it.


You can remove the frame so you could manipulate it without hurting the screen.

Is there any other repository of profiles? All the ones linked in the beginning aren't quite right, MenacingTuba's being the closest.


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snub115*
> 
> Hey guys im still on page 5 of this thread was just wanting some input on the monitor im about to get since my thread isnt seeing much of a response, its a Qnix QX2700 but with HDMI and IPS panel will it be alright in comparison the PLS variant or should i look elsewhere?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-QNIX-QX2700-LED-HDMI-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-LED-IPS-Computer-Monitor-/110999782383?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d81a43ef
> 
> Thanks


Different monitors. The QX700 is the variant of the Catleap/Shimians.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1293740/qnix-qx2700-27-korean-monitor-review


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I
> I didn't notice any temtemporary burn yet


Leave chrome running for 2 hours and it happens, its not like its a big deal. Mine went away in 5-10 minutes of doing something else.


----------



## snub115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Different monitors. The QX700 is the variant of the Catleap/Shimians.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1293740/qnix-qx2700-27-korean-monitor-review


Thanks im going over that thread to see if theres any potential down sides of getting that model, seem power brick is an issue for some


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Leave chrome running for 2 hours and it happens, its not like its a big deal. Mine went away in 5-10 minutes of doing something else.


Doesn't the screensaver prevent this?


----------



## lee63

It seems to me that most people have some kind of minor issue with these monitors, has any one got a good one with no issues ?

I understand they are cheap but I was just wondering what the chance of getting a good one is...I bought this one btw.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140963404028?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> It seems to me that most people have some kind of minor issue with these monitors, has any one got a good one with no issues ?
> 
> I understand they are cheap but I was just wondering what the chance of getting a good one is...I bought this one btw.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140963404028?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


There are issues with all monitors. Go to the Dell 2713hm site and there are some guys there that have had to send back 6 monitors to get a good one.. And the Asus PB278Q has issues also. I love my Qnix as there is less light bleed then my 27 in Asus TN panel. And zero dead pixels..


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> There are issues with all monitors. Go to the Dell 2713hm site and there are some guys there that have had to send back 6 monitors to get a good one.. And the Asus PB278Q has issues also. I love my Qnix as there is less light bleed then my 27 in Asus TN panel. And zero dead pixels..


Which one did you buy ? the same one as mine ?


----------



## brightbus

I was going to say the same. There's potential issues with every monitor. Even from big name companies, blb, dead pixels you name it. It's just whether or not the issues are within the realm of acceptability (amount of blb, amount of dead pixels etc). I've had no issues with my first two (minor blb on both, one with no dead pixels, the other with one). Ill post how number three is when it gets here.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Which one did you buy ? the same one as mine ?


Yes same model but I didn't get the perfect pixel. Yet I still got perfect pixels..


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Thanks Tesser & onegun,
> 
> Someone posted that a 1m (3ft) cable so was wrong,


I'm only going by what *I* got, you *may* get a different cable length. Some people have reported getting a singlelink cable instead!







I imagine they just chuck in anything that's handy LOL...

Actually, before I'm sued: I'm sure they take the utmost care in selecting the finest quality wines, I mean cables for our delectation and drinking err, viewing pleasure!


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alcaro*
> 
> Any of the lads who replaced the stand with VESA desk mounts or stands care to comment on how good or bad they are?
> I was happy with stability with it just touching the wall on one side...until I noticed the bezel has been rubbing black onto the wall.


I use a table clamping vesa stand that I got form monoprice. I like them, but if the weight is slightly off center the monitor will sag a little, so you need to make adjustments to counteract it. It takes a little bit of work to get them adjusted properly. You have to compensate for the sag and tilts. However, even with all of this. i wouldn't recommend them. They are cheap though.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> The only thing that kinda holds me back is the thought about the monitor isn't going to last as long or something


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*


They are warrantied for a year. You get a squaretrade 3 year warranty for next to nothing.


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisoldinho*
> 
> Thank you for the quick reply, so is there any reason to purchase a more expensive 2B Extreme / Overlord with the exception of it being a Samsung PLS panel as opposed to an LG IPS?
> 
> Chris.


I have both a Qnix and a Catleap and I kinda regret jumping in with both feet first with the Catleap as it was more than twice as much!









But of course there was no way of knowing what prices would do or if and when new, similar models would come out *sigh*


----------



## MenacingTuba

Qnix 60hz 16 Bit Lut ICC Profile

Qnix 96hz 16 Bit Lut ICC Profile

ICC Profiles made with an i1 display pro colorimeter in basICColor 5. 2.2 Gamma 6500k Color Temperature, -16 brightness clicks


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> I'm going to buy a calibration tool. Whilst brightness and contrast is fine for all the ICC profiles the rgb hue, saturation and balance is far of neutral for my monitor.


Why buy a calibration tool when there are already a ton of .icc profiles out there for you to choose from?


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methadras*
> 
> Why buy a calibration tool when there are already a ton of .icc profiles out there for you to choose from?


Because everyone's monitor is different and you will never have a perfect one unless you calibrate yourself

That said, I don't think anyone except professionals should bother calibrating. Just go by hand and set the monitor up so that it looks good TO YOU. It doesn't matter about how it actually is off colour or oversaturated or anything, if it looks good to you that's the only thing that matters.


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> someone posted £60 and £80 (us$120) tax charged by fedex (overcharge imo).


TBH that sounds extortionate, maybe they should query that?

I got mine from Dreamseller and as previously mentioned, he didn't mark it down in value (or as gift or refurbished) so VAT was payable on the full amount (£191.56). 20% means £38.31 (I'm going by my invoice not my own calculations so blame Fedex if they're wrong lol). Add a £10.50 handling charge = £48.81.

Unless someone has erroneously added Customs Charges (shouldn't have as we have an EU-SK FTA) or was it a different monitor with a higher original sale price?


----------



## hamzatm

Sounds like I got ripped off.

**** fedex.


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Qnix 60hz 16 Bit Lut ICC Profile
> 
> Qnix 96hz 16 Bit Lut ICC Profile
> 
> ICC Profiles made with an i1 display pro colorimeter in basICColor 5. 2.2 Gamma 6500k Color Temperature, -16 brightness clicks


This work pretty good for me.

It still feels like a fight getting this to look as good as my 27q. Maybe I should have gotten a glossy? Colors just don't seem as naturally vibrant like the reds and oranges and I'm getting more eye fatigue. Max brightness helps with the eyes but only for so long.


----------



## OneGun

Just installed 13.6 beta and i cant setup any custom refresh rates anymore..


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Just installed 13.6 beta and i cant setup any custom refresh rates anymore..


That's because hyper matrix probably doesn't have modded drivers for the new drivers yet


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> That's because hyper matrix probably doesn't have modded drivers for the new drivers yet


No i figured it out..I had to turn off test mode after i uninstalled old drivers..Then install new drivers and re patch and set to test mode again..


----------



## faiyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> No i figured it out..I had to turn off test mode after i uninstalled old drivers..Then install new drivers and re patch and set to test mode again..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faiyez*
> 
> revert to 60 Hz, get out of test mode.
> 
> Install new drivers.
> 
> Reapply pixel clock patcher, enable test mode
> 
> Overclock via nvidia control panel


I hope this helps others


----------



## stussyking

I am keen to buy one and thinking of getting a flexible arm for it
Do you think something like this would be sufficient ?
The specs say 0-20lbs.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Woohooo, screen is shipped with DHL, I hope customs is quick here in Belgium.


----------



## HHawk

Hi guys,

Just a quick question and I am already sorry if someone asked before, but this thread has become so big, it's not easy to search anymore.

I currently own a Hazro HZ27WC (matte) display. And I want to jump on the QNIX QX2710 wagon.
How do they compare? Anyone has experience with this?

I already tried overclocking the Hazro H27WC (with EVGA Pixel Overclocking utility), however I could only overclock it by 4 Hz (64 Hz in total). Or should I use a different tool.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stussyking*
> 
> I am keen to buy one and thinking of getting a flexible arm for it
> Do you think something like this would be sufficient ?
> The specs say 0-20lbs.


Post a link to what you are looking at..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Woohooo, screen is shipped with DHL, I hope customs is quick here in Belgium.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Just a quick question and I am already sorry if someone asked before, but this thread has become so big, it's not easy to search anymore.
> 
> I currently own a Hazro HZ27WC (matte) display. And I want to jump on the QNIX QX2710 wagon.
> How do they compare? Anyone has experience with this?
> 
> I already tried overclocking the Hazro H27WC (with EVGA Pixel Overclocking utility), however I could only overclock it by 4 Hz (64 Hz in total). Or should I use a different tool.


Have you tried CRU and used the Nvidia patcher?


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Have you tried CRU and used the Nvidia patcher?


No offence meant, but would that make a difference?
Is it that different compared to the EVGA Pixel Overclocker?

I am asking this because, if I set the EVGA Pixel Overclocker to something higher than 64 Hz my screen will artifact, turn black and getting lines.

Of course if you say it's worth a try, than I will try it...


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> This work pretty good for me.
> 
> It still feels like a fight getting this to look as good as my 27q. Maybe I should have gotten a glossy? Colors just don't seem as naturally vibrant like the reds and oranges and I'm getting more eye fatigue. Max brightness helps with the eyes but only for so long.


Im running into that same issue. Thinking i should have gotten the glossy myself. Although it could be that the color accuracy is just a little better on the LG panel.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> This work pretty good for me.
> 
> It still feels like a fight getting this to look as good as my 27q. Maybe I should have gotten a glossy? Colors just don't seem as naturally vibrant like the reds and oranges and I'm getting more eye fatigue. Max brightness helps with the eyes but only for so long.


Excuse my ignorance, just orded a Q2710, why 16 bit , not 32 bit?


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Excuse my ignorance, just orded a Q2710, why 16 bit , not 32 bit?


I think he means 16 bit per color.


----------



## brightbus

http://i.imgur.com/rz0WR2Y.jpg

Just thought I'd share, this is what 1440p 120fps gaming is supposed to look like









In case anyones wondering, cpu is amd fx8350 overclocked to 4.7, dual 7870 video cards clock oc'd to 1100 and memory clock ocd to 1250 (I know not much over stock)

also playing around with radeonpro settings.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/rz0WR2Y.jpg
> 
> Just thought I'd share, this is what 1440p 120fps gaming is supposed to look like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case anyones wondering, cpu is amd fx8350 overclocked to 4.7, dual 7870 video cards clock oc'd to 1100 and memory clock ocd to 1250 (I know not much over stock)
> 
> also playing around with radeonpro settings.


You should do a video.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah a video probably better because what good is a still image in this context?


----------



## brightbus

I actually already made one







. However its currently uploading to youtube.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I wish there was a demo of that game (and all 2013 AAA titles for that matter). I want to see it on my display but I am certainly not shelling out $50-$60 for a game ever again. So guess will be waiting. I paid full price for years before the days of sales. Now I have more games than I have time for in the first place (and always seem to spend most of my time playing the same few multiplayer shooters anyway).


----------



## self_slaughter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah a video probably better because what good is a still image in this context?


yeah a screenshot is completely useless, then again so is a video.
wow, watch how cool 120hz 1440p is with this 60fps video in 1080p!









1440p isn't really that much different to 1080p as far as gaming goes anyway, Just means you can go a bit easier on the AA.
120Hz is nice though, but I would like to try it on a proper 120Hz screen since these things blow goats at 60Hz anyway.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I don't know I notice a lot of nice little differences with the increased pixel density of 1440P and that is coming from 1200P even. Even things like sharper, tighter text on the HUD in BF3 is apparent.

Major? No. Better? Hell yes.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> yeah a screenshot is completely useless, then again so is a video.
> wow, watch how cool 120hz 1440p is with this 60fps video in 1080p!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1440p isn't really that much different to 1080p as far as gaming goes anyway, Just means you can go a bit easier on the AA.
> 120Hz is nice though, but I would like to try it on a proper 120Hz screen since these things blow goats at 60Hz anyway.


Maybe its just me, but I can tell a big difference going from 1080 to 1440. After I launched League after getting my first qnix...to me it was like going from sd to hd again


----------



## Faded

i'm interested in jumping in on this, is there a particular seller that people are having the best results with and should i look for a specific version of these monitors or are they pretty much the same, just rebranded?

did a quick search on ebay and there are quite a few listings, i'm assuming it is going to be the ones from South Korea that i should be focusing on.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faded*
> 
> i'm interested in jumping in on this, is there a particular seller that people are having the best results with and should i look for a specific version of these monitors or are they pretty much the same, just rebranded?
> 
> did a quick search on ebay and there are quite a few listings, i'm assuming it is going to be the ones from South Korea that i should be focusing on.


Got mine from hulustar, no complaints. Just be aware that no matter the seller, there is always some dice roll involved on how much blb or dead pixels. Don't buy a pixel perfect version. Look for either an xstar dp2710 or qnix qx2710 evolution ii


----------



## brightbus

Gameplay video






Make sure you change quality to "original"







Of course its not 120 fps while I play, I dont have a powerful enough rig to play and record at 120.


----------



## Zerias

Okay, got my monitor into today. It's hooked up, I'm typing on it.

First, I can't see any dead pixels, so *Yay.*

Second, the power adapter worked with my existing hardware, so again, *Yay.*

Third, fired up one of the most intensive Ego Shooter Multiplayer Games currently available, Red Eclipse (http://www.redeclipse.net/), and didn't find LCD ghosting to be an issue.


----------



## brightbus

Honestly Ill probably change it to one main display in landscape with the other two flanked on the side in portrait, but I admit, this looks pretty sweet



My current set up


----------



## redxmaverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Honestly Ill probably change it to one main display in landscape with the other two flanked on the side in portrait, but I admit, this looks pretty sweet
> 
> 
> 
> My current set up


Looks sweet! You a 3rd Strike fan? or just a fan of Chun-Li? The artist Artgerm, who drew that wallpaper of yours, is truly amazing. He did all the character artwork for 3rd Strike Online and does some DC/Marvel comic book covers


----------



## brightbus

I retroactively got into third strike. I don't play fighting games as much anymore, but I was wayyy into street fighter four and marvel vs. capcom 3. I got third strike when it came out, and while I didn't like it as much as four, it is a pretty awesome game.


----------



## snub115

So guys the x star is cheaper for a 0-2 dead pxiel model will it be ok if i get this over the qnix?


----------



## brightbus

They are pretty much the exact same monitor. Go for it.


----------



## Lazdaa

Do you guys run at 120/96Hz at all times? Could it damage the monitor or make it's lifespan shorter?


----------



## Faded

pulled the trigger on an x-star panel from excellent castle... scheduled to arrive between monday and thurs of next week...

damn you all... this is YOUR FAULT!!!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Do you guys run at 120/96Hz at all times? Could it damage the monitor or make it's lifespan shorter?


I am at 60hz until I game which I run at 120hz..


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Do you guys run at 120/96Hz at all times? Could it damage the monitor or make it's lifespan shorter?


120Hz all the time, and no it won't damage it or make the life span shorter.


----------



## brightbus

120hz on my main one all the time. The other 2 are at 60hz. Highest I could go on those was 96 but got artifacts, either a limitation of the monitors, the video card, the minidisplay port to dvi-d converter or a mix and match of all of the above.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Do you guys run at 120/96Hz at all times? Could it damage the monitor or make it's lifespan shorter?


96Hz all the time, every day.
Haven't noticed any problems.


----------



## kxdu

For the people running at 96 or 120hz, do you notice that the top right corner of the screen being slightly dimmer than the top left? Can't really notice it in games or video, but my blue Chrome browser default blue bar does show it.


----------



## kxdu

Also, for the people looking to replace the stock stand, I would recommend this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

swivels to landscape and also has USB ports, similar to the dell ultrasharp stands


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Also, for the people looking to replace the stock stand, I would recommend this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
> 
> swivels to landscape and also has USB ports, similar to the dell ultrasharp stands


Looks like a nice stand.Thank you.


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> For the people running at 96 or 120hz, do you notice that the top right corner of the screen being slightly dimmer than the top left? Can't really notice it in games or video, but my blue Chrome browser default blue bar does show it.


I have the same


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> 96Hz all the time, every day.
> Haven't noticed any problems.


+1.


----------



## Gilgam3sh

96Hz 24/7


----------



## lee63

Wow, mine does 120Hz in NVCP first try no BLB or pixel issues yet......more to com soon.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Wow, mine does 120Hz in NVCP first try no BLB or pixel issues yet......more to com soon.


aren't they nice...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> +1.


Yes i have some of that too but for me after some tweaking it only happens with a light blue or grey color. Like if the whole screen is white or yellow it is not there. I run 120hz 24/7 havent had any issues except some slight burn-in that has been temporary all times(about 10minutes and gone).


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Maybe its just me, but I can tell a big difference going from 1080 to 1440. After I launched League after getting my first qnix...to me it was like going from sd to hd again


It's not just you. There is a huge difference between 1080p and 1440p no doubt about that. Pixel density is enormous.


----------



## lee63

Yes they are...and for cheap too, gets a little darker when I OC, need to compensate for that.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Also, for the people looking to replace the stock stand, I would recommend this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
> 
> swivels to landscape and also has USB ports, similar to the dell ultrasharp stands


That does look like a decent stand. If I wasn't running my tripple stand, I'd look into that.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hmm not in China either. I really don't want to bother with removing the stem...but damn that _is_ nice.


----------



## marbles86

What doe it mean when you start to get red flickering lines on the screen? I overclocked mine to 120hz but i get this red flickering lines on the screen, does that mean it can't go that far? I also tried to increase the vertical lines that was mentioned a few pages back, tried it at 100hz and raised it to 500 but i was starting to get those red lines through the screen again


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marbles86*
> 
> What doe it mean when you start to get red flickering lines on the screen? I overclocked mine to 120hz but i get this red flickering lines on the screen, does that mean it can't go that far? I also tried to increase the vertical lines that was mentioned a few pages back, tried it at 100hz and raised it to 500 but i was starting to get those red lines through the screen again


Sounds like your refresh rate is too high and it artifacts. Naturally you should lower it until you maintain a stable refresh. I'm sure other owners will chime in and give you some more advice.

Noticed its your first post on OCN.....Welcome.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marbles86*
> 
> What doe it mean when you start to get red flickering lines on the screen? I overclocked mine to 120hz but i get this red flickering lines on the screen, does that mean it can't go that far? I also tried to increase the vertical lines that was mentioned a few pages back, tried it at 100hz and raised it to 500 but i was starting to get those red lines through the screen again


Try running 120hz on lcd reduced on CRU I believe that's what it's called.. That 500 back porch setting only worked for me at 90hz as I got green lines on my screen any higher..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marbles86*
> 
> What doe it mean when you start to get red flickering lines on the screen? I overclocked mine to 120hz but i get this red flickering lines on the screen, does that mean it can't go that far? I also tried to increase the vertical lines that was mentioned a few pages back, tried it at 100hz and raised it to 500 but i was starting to get those red lines through the screen again


Yeah I got red scan lines when I first tried 120Hz but just once or twice but that was in 2D (Desktop). I also did not have my cable screwed in tightly enough on both top and bottom which later led to no image on screen problems later. A long shot but something to be aware of. I suppose it stands to reason that the higher the bandwidth needed the more the cable connection integrity matters but that is all pure speculation.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Also, for the people looking to replace the stock stand, I would recommend this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
> 
> swivels to landscape and also has USB ports, similar to the dell ultrasharp stands
> 
> 
> 
> That does look like a decent stand. If I wasn't running my tripple stand, I'd look into that.
Click to expand...

Yeah that is a nice stand. But can anyone comment on the monoprice stand(http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?p_id=5561&seq=1&format=2)? Similarly priced, but has a larger spanning footprint on a desk. I am wondering if anyone knows the thickness of the monoprice monitor base, that sits on the desk?


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Doesn't the screensaver prevent this?


Not if you're reading overclock for two hours







the exit and search bar are constant so they burn in.


----------



## snub115

Well the deed is done after reaserching/cost factor ive just ordered the Matte X-Star DP2710 from hulustar, lets hope everything turns out good. It was the promo 0-2 dead pxiel model and after all the currency conversion its came to $313 cad shipped. I'll post pics when it gets in here


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snub115*
> 
> Well the deed is done after reaserching/cost factor ive just ordered the Matte X-Star DP2710 from hulustar, lets hope everything turns out good. It was the promo 0-2 dead pxiel model and after all the currency conversion its came to $313 cad shipped. I'll post pics when it gets in here


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snub115*
> 
> Well the deed is done after reaserching/cost factor ive just ordered the Matte X-Star DP2710 from hulustar, lets hope everything turns out good. It was the promo 0-2 dead pxiel model and after all the currency conversion its came to $313 cad shipped. I'll post pics when it gets in here


I think you have some additional taxes to expect


----------



## finalheaven

I'm planning to return my monitor because of the horrible light bleed. I can stand a little but not when it distorts colors in movies. But I have tried it out and it will be hard to go back to 1920x1200. Might risk it again...


----------



## snub115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I think you have some additional taxes to expect


You might be right, the seller asked to mark it as gift valued at 60 i said ok. Also i think i might be screwed since my 6770 is dvi-i as well as my 550ti


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I'm planning to return my monitor because of the horrible light bleed. I can stand a little but not when it distorts colors in movies. But I have tried it out and it will be hard to go back to 1920x1200. Might risk it again...


Is Hulustar allowing you to return it for an exchange?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Is Hulustar allowing you to return it for an exchange?


I'll be finding out shortly


----------



## andygully

ordering the x-star today hopefully


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I'll be finding out shortly


Good luck bud..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snub115*
> 
> You might be right, the seller asked to mark it as gift valued at 60 i said ok. Also i think i might be screwed since my 6770 is dvi-i as well as my 550ti


the 6770 dvi-i port should be dual link. I believe people on here have said that works despite the oppposite being on the seller pages.


----------



## Wolf404

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snub115*
> 
> You might be right, the seller asked to mark it as gift valued at 60 i said ok. Also i think i might be screwed since my 6770 is dvi-i as well as my 550ti


Dual link DVI-I is supposed to be a kind of universal DVI port from what I've heard. So it should work fine with DVI-D that's on all these monitors.
I also have only a DVI-I port on my HD9750 so I was doing a lot of reading to see if I can use one of these.
Now I just have to choose one and hope for no BLB or dead pixels.

Can anyone recommend a reliable ebay seller?

Also, why are there duplicates of many of the monitors that cost more, but are exactly the same as far as I can tell? Like these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/140966017556?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d23aba14
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111085489556?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd360d94#shId

Why does one cost more?


----------



## brightbus

Most of these sellers have multiple listings. Only thing I can think of is when they change prices, they don't always get around to changing them all at the same time. I'd go with hulustar, I have two from him and have heard great things.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> Dual link DVI-I is supposed to be a kind of universal DVI port from what I've heard. So it should work fine with DVI-D that's on all these monitors.
> I also have only a DVI-I port on my HD9750 so I was doing a lot of reading to see if I can use one of these.
> Now I just have to choose one and hope for no BLB or dead pixels.
> 
> Can anyone recommend a reliable ebay seller?
> 
> Also, why are there duplicates of many of the monitors that cost more, but are exactly the same as far as I can tell? Like these:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/140966017556?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d23aba14
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111085489556?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd360d94#shId
> 
> Why does one cost more?


Both those monitors are the exact same monitor..Most people on here lately have gone with hulustar..I got a really good one from them as have others..A couple people got some with bad back light bleed..Most the ones that were being bought on here were this one..As Hulustar has a 0-2 dead pixel promotion still going on..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bf9dd


----------



## Wolf404

Has anyone else here used one of these monitors with a DVI-I port on their video card? As far as I know it should work, but all the sellers say only DVI-D so I'm still a little worried about ordering one.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> Has anyone else here used one of these monitors with a DVI-I port on their video card? As far as I know it should work, but all the sellers say only DVI-D so I'm still a little worried about ordering one.


You need a Dual link DVI...Or it will not work..


----------



## Wolf404

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> You need a Dual link DVI...Or it will not work..


Sorry, I was not clear. Dual link was implied.
Has anyone else here used one of these monitors with a dual link DVI-I port on their video card? I have no idea why it would not work with dual link DVI-I and only DVI-D, but the sellers seem to think so. I don't really trust their technical expertise though.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> Sorry, I was not clear. Dual link was implied.
> Has anyone else here used one of these monitors with a dual link DVI-I port on their video card? I have no idea why it would not work with dual link DVI-I and only DVI-D, but the sellers seem to think so. I don't really trust their technical expertise though.


See this: 

Also singe link limits the resolution and the bandwidth that the cable is capable of.


----------



## Wolf404

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> See this:


Yeah, It looks like it should work and I know it works with other monitors. I'm just confused why they say it won't. So I want confirmation from someone else who has a dual link DVI-I port on their card.


----------



## un-nefer

I think what the seller is really trying to say is that it "wont work" with a dual-link DVI-I cable as it will not plug into the dual-link DVI-D plug on the monitor.

So as long as you used a dual-link DVI-D cable it should work - it will connect properly and it is still dual-link. Those 4 small pins on the DVI-I plug are for analog signals anyway, so they are not needed for dual-link operation when using dual-link DVI-I, so they can just be ignored.


----------



## Wolf404

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> I think what the seller is really trying to say is that it "wont work" with a dual-link DVI-I cable as it will not plug into the dual-link DVI-D plug on the monitor.
> 
> So as long as you used a dual-link DVI cable it should work - it will connect properly and it is still dual-link. Those 4 small pins on the DVI-I plug are for analog signals anyway, so they are not needed for dual-link operation when using dual-link DVI-I, so they can just be ignored.


Thanks. Yeah, I guess that makes sense. Their English advertising could use a bit of work. I would still feel better knowing someone else is using it with a dual link DVI-I video card though.


----------



## wato21

I got my Qnix from hulustar and it is spot on.
I also use my Radeon7970 Which Is DVI-I so you shouldn't have any issues with your card


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> Thanks. Yeah, I guess that makes sense. Their English advertising could use a bit of work. I would still feel better knowing someone else is using it with a dual link DVI-I video card though.


Just for you I pulled out my old pc that has a radeon hd 7770 series in it. Comparing it to the pictures of dvi-i dual link in this thread, both of the dvi outputs on it are dvi-i dual link. I was able to connect my monitor to both ports and it worked fine in both







If that helps you any.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> Thanks. Yeah, I guess that makes sense. Their English advertising could use a bit of work. I would still feel better knowing someone else is using it with a dual link DVI-I video card though.


Oh so what you mean is you got a Dual link DVI-I in you GPU? Like this:


----------



## Wolf404

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wato21*
> 
> I got my Qnix from hulustar and it is spot on.
> I also use my Radeon7970 Which Is DVI-I so you shouldn't have any issues with your card


Thanks a lot man. That's just was I was hoping for. I'll be ordering mine today then.









edit: Also, thank you brightbus for doing that for me!

@Lazdaa yes that is correct.


----------



## majnu

I can't believe the UK doesn't stock a monoprice 24awg cable. Getting one in from the USA incurs silly shipping rates.









edit - sod it I ordered 2


----------



## Klouczech

I ordered _QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll 2560x1440 QHD PLS Panel Monitor Matte Screen_ on 20.5.2013 from *bigclothcraft* for $309.90
+ $40.00 shipping
Communication was OK, he said, that he will send me the best monitor








I wanted to send it via EMS with value $185.

He sent it on 23.5. and on 24.5. was monitor in Czech republic and on the same date it was Handed over to Customs.
I had to send them some documents and pay them for the Customs procedure.







M G
Post Car arrived on 30.5. and nobody told me how much I had to pay for customs and they didnt have my phone nubmer so I had to catch the car.
I couldnt pay with credit card so I had to run to the ATM.
Customs was $65.

Monitor is without dead pixels, only with some really small light bleeding








With stock cable i OCd it to 100hz without problems. With 120hz I had few blue lines, but it was running well. I have to buy better Dual-DVI cable.
Total price was $436.


----------



## wato21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> I can't believe the UK doesn't stock a monoprice 24awg cable. Getting one in from the USA incurs silly shipping rates.


Same here in Australia I cant seem to find anywhere! frustrating.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I ordered _QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll 2560x1440 QHD PLS Panel Monitor Matte Screen_ on 20.5.2013 from *bigclothcraft* for $309.90
> + $40.00 shipping
> Communication was OK, he said, that he will send me the best monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to send it via EMS with value $185.
> 
> He sent it on 23.5. and on 24.5. was monitor in Czech republic and on the same date it was Handed over to Customs.
> I had to send them some documents and pay them for the Customs procedure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M G
> Post Car arrived on 30.5. and nobody told me how much I had to pay for customs and they didnt have my phone nubmer so I had to catch the car.
> I couldnt pay with credit card so I had to run to the ATM.
> Customs was $65.
> 
> Monitor is without dead pixels, only with some really small light bleeding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With stock cable i OCd it to 100hz without problems. With 120hz I had few blue lines, but it was running well. I have to buy better Dual-DVI cable.
> Total price was $436.


Your next upgrade: a bigger desk.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Question about the cable, I'm searching for a replacement for when I get the monitor, but!
I'm in Belgium so no monoprice. I found a few but they al said in their description: resolution up to 1080p









So I'm guessing those are not good


----------



## gockelmax

OK guys FedEx brought mine today! (ordered on Monday, so 5 days from Korea to Germany!)
well what can I say about this monitor but wow!
very little BLB in the lower left corner (doesn't bother me at all), zero dead pixels, zero stuck pixels.
Colors are way better than with my old TN, but the response time is a little worse (at 60Hz).
However once the QNIX goes past 100Hz everything is very smooth and the response time is head to head with my old 2ms TN.
I love the higher resolution and I dont regret buying it.
There is one issue though, the picture becomes very dim at ~120Hz (btw I was able to overclock to 120Hz withOUT LCD reduced, and I have a feeling that I can go even farther)
Is there a way to calibrate the picture so that it becomes brighter?
Also the colors are a little off at 120Hz, need to calibrate....

So all in all I can say that the only bad thing about this monitor is the stand and maybe the quality of the material they used.

I ordered from accessorieswhole (259,98€)
http://www.ebay.de/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27in-PC-Monitor-/130913840957?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item1e7b12af3d

Thanks guys for drawing my attention to the QNIX!


----------



## majnu

I just bit my lip and ordered one. The monoprice cables are not guaranteed to give 120Hz, but since they are made from lower resistance copper the likely hood is increased.

My stock cable hit 110hz but any higher would introduce banding and horizontal red lines. With exchange rates factored in and it being a low value item I don't expect custom charges so it would have cost £25.

There always has to be a Guinea Pig in this game, so it will be down to a pure enthusiast to test all the cables available in their territory and do a review, by measuring cable thickness, maximum refresh rates, quoted AWG etc.


----------



## Lazdaa

Hmm.. I'm also looking at some different cables. Not sure what the difference between them is tho.

If you want you can take a look here: http://www.av-cables.dk/dvi-d-kabler/?sortering=pris But it's a local site.


----------



## Wolf404

How are these monitors for gaming since they have a 6ms response time? Any ghosting?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well according to my manual it's 8ms. Many of us see none; people coming from 2ms say they notice some but nobody regrets getting the display. The fact it can overclock helps too of course.


----------



## marbles86

I can notice some motion blur or ghosting on mine when playing black ops 2, however it's not that bad and you get use to it. the resolution alone and all the detail it brings out is worth it imo, also i don't notice any input lag at all which is great.

Just have to find a good colour profile now.


----------



## Particle

Just a couple of general purpose notes after reading the last few pages of this thread:

---

The Monoprice stands are cheaply made, and I personally think they're crap. I don't feel like an attached monitor is secure from rotating as the method it uses for stopping rotation is a simple screw clamp that doesn't seem to bite hard enough to stop a 27" display from rotating easily. They do work though.

---

DVI-I on a video card is fine. DVI-I just means that your card can output _both_ DVI-A and DVI-D signals. Just make sure to choose an appropriate cable. In the case of these monitors, you'll need a DVI-D cable. If you were to try to use a DVI-I cable (which carries both analog _and_ digital mode signals), the analog signal pins (the pins around the blade) will prevent you from being able to physically plug it into the DVI-D port of the monitor. This isn't a functional or technical problem, just physical. If you were to snip off those analog pins, it would mate with and properly drive a DVI-D device. You're better off just using the right kind of cable, however.

In summary:
DVI-I Source > DVI-I Cable > DVI-D Device = Won't Fit
DVI-I Source > DVI-D Cable > DVI-D Device = OK
DVI-D Source > DVI-I Cable > DVI-D Device = Won't Fit
DVI-D Source > DVI-D Cable > DVI-D Device = OK

All ports and cables above are assumed to be physically dual-link.


----------



## Faded

when you guys ordered, did you receive any kind of tracking info from the seller?

ordered one from excellent castle so i'm wondering if i should be expecting any kind of correspondence.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Eh well in my case I ordered Friday night and it arrived Tuesday afternoon before I even thought to look/ask for tracking. That was hulustar though...

Contact the seller but I'd give him at least 48 hours. They are extra busy these days...


----------



## OneGun

I didn't get my tracking number until it was 36hrs from being delivered.


----------



## snub115

Got a 24AWG cable from mono in case the factory one craps or it cant handle oc, as for guys who are looking for 0-2 pixel model and want to save some money this is the one i got

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/130892638671?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I know its not the qnix but hey it was the cheapest monitor with that pixel quality at the time


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> See this:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, It looks like it should work and I know it works with other monitors. I'm just confused why they say it won't. So I want confirmation from someone else who has a dual link DVI-I port on their card.
Click to expand...

My powercolor 7870 myst tahiti le 2gb is listed on newegg as having a dual link dvi-i. Mine works


----------



## Wolf404

It says something on their ebay page about "send custom value of price." It that something to do with customs? Do you have to send extra money after you pay for it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bf9dd


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> It says something on their ebay page about "send custom value of price." It that something to do with customs? Do you have to send extra money after you pay for it?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bf9dd


Depends on the country you are shipping to..You may get a bill from the shipping service for customs and taxes..


----------



## majnu

Is there a way to overclock these without using that ToastyX utility? Now whilst it may work consistently for some it doesn't hold and store the refresh rate for me and mid game it looses it's configuration.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Is there a way to overclock these without using that ToastyX utility? Now whilst it may work consistently for some it doesn't hold and store the refresh rate for me and mid game it looses it's configuration.


What GPU are you using?


----------



## lee63

NVCP if you have an Nvidia card.


----------



## Wolf404

Just ordered the QNIX QX2710 from hulustar.







I'll post some pics after it gets here.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> Just ordered the QNIX QX2710 from hulustar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some pics after it gets here.


----------



## EvgeniX

is all Matte is "semi-Glossy" ? Thx


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> is all Matte is "semi-Glossy" ? Thx


Yes. Its like a subtle matte, but just enough to make the colors still look nice compared to glossy.


----------



## brightbus

With hulustar I got a tracking number 2 days after shipping, and was delivered 3-4 days after ordering.


----------



## lee63

I must say I'm pretty happy with this monitor...its not perfect but it will do, its just as good if not better than the $849 Catleap 2B that I returned, or the Overlord I had on pre order.

I have done my OCing through NVCP which seems to be working for now......The color does darken when OCed, but setting the brightness to +50% and contrast to +65% and adjusting the gamma seems to balance it out.

I got those settings for Hypermatrix over at 120Hz.net btw. I just wish I had bought it when the price was lower, I paid $379......Oh well, its still a deal I guess. I'm wondering when the Koreas are going to catch on to this and start jacking up the prices.


----------



## brightbus

This is how I normally run them despite my earlier picture



I do however love thme in 3x1 for shooters. It was amazing Bioshock. I was getting 50 fps with most of the settings maxed out. (versus 90-120 fps on one screen) However my video cards sounded like jet engines,and I don't want them running like that for extended periods of time. I'm an amd fanboy so trying to decide if I want to wait on 8k/9k series (whatever they call it) or upgrade to a 7970.


----------



## Wolf404

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> This is how I normally run them despite my earlier picture
> 
> 
> 
> I do however love thme in 3x1 for shooters. It was amazing Bioshock. I was getting 50 fps with most of the settings maxed out. (versus 90-120 fps on one screen) However my video cards sounded like jet engines,and I don't want them running like that for extended periods of time. I'm an amd fanboy so trying to decide if I want to wait on 8k/9k series (whatever they call it) or upgrade to a 7970.


What kind of monitor stands are you using? I'd like to get some stand to let me flip them to the vertical position like you have there.
I'm jealous of your monitors T_T I have a 28" 1920x1200 and 24" 1680x1050 my new monitor will be next to. It would be great to have 3 the same size.

The 7970 should be awesome. I've got the 7950 and I really love it, so the 7970 should be really nice.


----------



## kmetek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> Just ordered the QNIX QX2710 from hulustar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some pics after it gets here.


link?


----------



## Wolf404

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmetek*
> 
> link?


I got this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bf9dd


----------



## brightbus

Hulustars matt screen

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bf9dd

and glossy screen

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-27-Glossy-Screen-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/130876447551?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e78d81b3f


----------



## kmetek

thanks but no thanks

20% custom tax + fear of dead pixel.....


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> What GPU are you using?


SLI GTX670

I've kept one profile in CRU and fingers crossed that will work. I did move my 110Hz profile to the top too previously, weird.


----------



## brightbus

Just one triple monitor stand

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JG9RQ2/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Cheapest I could find that would hold monitors of this size, (compared to 200-300+ for other solutions) they will fit in 1x3 mode as well, just barely.

It's freestanding, but it does have a whole in the bottom to drill through the desk or whatever if you want extra anchorage.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> What kind of monitor stands are you using? I'd like to get some stand to let me flip them to the vertical position like you have there.
> I'm jealous of your monitors T_T I have a 28" 1920x1200 and 24" 1680x1050 my new monitor will be next to. It would be great to have 3 the same size.
> 
> The 7970 should be awesome. I've got the 7950 and I really love it, so the 7970 should be really nice.


Yeah I know what you mean. I ordered my first qnix after reading up on forums here (and I wanted a better display to go with the computer I just built.) I had older monitors I had previously been using (dual) an aoc e2343fk and a dell e2311hf. I was using this with the qnix, but I couldnt stand the quality of them anymore after getting the qnix, so I replaced them with two others.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Know it has been discussed already (what hasn't) but not clear on exactly what removing the stem for a stand swap entails. Do I need to actually move/remove the panel, unplug any connecters, etc? Or is it just a matter of the rear housing? And how (and/or to what) is that clear plastic nub actually secured in there?


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Know it has been discussed already (what hasn't) but not clear on exactly what removing the stem for a stand swap entails. Do I need to actually move/remove the panel, unplug any connecters, etc? Or is it just a matter of the rear housing? And how (and/or to what) is that clear plastic nub actually secured in there?


I didnt remove the panel, I just unscrewed the screws and took the front housing off, lifted the panel without disconnecting anything and unscrewed the stand with a small screwdriver.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmetek*
> 
> thanks but no thanks
> 
> 20% custom tax + fear of dead pixel.....


You're welcome


----------



## Wolf404

If I plan to overclock the monitor does the cable I get make a difference? I was planning to get this one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812270191

Will that work or should I get something else? If something else, can someone recommend one?


----------



## brightbus

I wish I could get my other two monitors to overclock..but I think it has to do with the minidisplayport to dvi-d adapters I'm using.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> If I plan to overclock the monitor does the cable I get make a difference? I was planning to get this one:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812270191
> 
> Will that work or should I get something else? If something else, can someone recommend one?


most people have been getting the 24awg one from Monoprice.. My stock cable gets me 120hz.. But it won't screw in lol.. I am going to buy a monoprice one today..


----------



## brightbus

If you have a small flathead screwdriver you should be able to get it to screw in, thats what I had to do, even with my aftermarket cables.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Im working on publishing some statistics on the members list form responses. stay posted


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah screwing in properly and tight is important at least on mine. I work IT and never found it mattered before this display (provided you get video and it's not like to just fall off, of course). Had a nice cable from work I could not get to function at all as it wouldn't screw in top or bottom.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Also, check out this review I was informed of.

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html

Edit: Check out the new section I added to the OP: Analysis on Members List Form Submissions, under the Monitor Fixes, Support, Help section.

a preview of what is in that section...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc&single=true&gid=6&output=html&widget=true


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Also, check out this review I was informed of.
> 
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html


Great review find. Thank you.


----------



## Timu

Had mine for 3 weeks and still going strong.


----------



## derfer

I've come to the sad realization that the reason this display looks so crappy despite all the profiles I try is due to being at 96hz. Reset it to stock and it's much more pleasant to look at, though the mouse movement looks like crap. There really isn't a way to have it all ATM.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> I've come to the sad realization that the reason this display looks so crappy despite all the profiles I try is due to being at 96hz. Reset it to stock and it's much more pleasant to look at, though the mouse movement looks like crap. There really isn't a way to have it all ATM.


And that is the reason mine is at 60hz unless I am gaming .It really looks much better at 60hz no matter the color profile you use..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Speaking of color profiles that excellent review links to another set of ICC instructions as well. I don't agree it looks like crap but I will have to spend some more time at 60Hz and compare.
Quote:


> +Price (300-400$)
> +Amazing color presets..the second best of all the 2560x1440 monitors I have reviewed
> +High native contrast (1,000:1)
> +Deep blacks for a PLS/IPS panel
> +Nearly neglible input lag
> +Pixel response times (ghosting) on par with the Asus PB278Q & Samsung S27A850D
> +Calibrated Color Accuracy: The second best of all the 2560x1440 monitors I have reviewed
> -Glossy bezel and matte coating do not jive
> -Back-light bleeding
> -Extended color space=slight color over-saturation (125% print test sRGB color space coverage)
> -Panel not properly assembled, my CrossOver 2720MDP which has the same bezel is fine
> -Pixel response times are slightly slower than the CrossOver 2720MDP and ViewSonic VP2770's
> -Lack of warranty


----------



## marbles86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Speaking of color profiles that excellent review links to another set of ICC instructions as well.


Which review was that?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marbles86*
> 
> Which review was that?


This one..
http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html


----------



## marbles86

Oh that one, yeah i tried the 120hz profile, colour wise it looks good but idk, still something off about my screen, like it's way too dark still but he says to turn the brightness down?

Is there a way to reset what brightness you've set the monitor on, without the on screen display for it i can't tell what i've put it on since i was mucking around with it when i first got it and can't remember how many clicks i did or what i was clicking :/


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marbles86*
> 
> Oh that one, yeah i tried the 120hz profile, colour wise it looks good but idk, still something off about my screen, like it's way too dark still but he says to turn the brightness down?
> 
> Is there a way to reset what brightness you've set the monitor on, without the on screen display for it i can't tell what i've put it on since i was mucking around with it when i first got it and can't remember how many clicks i did or what i was clicking :/


Go all the way down by just holding it till the screen goes completely dark, then count the amount of times you click it going up in brightness. Also if none of the profiles work for you try this http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ it is the best thing aside from getting a color profile tool.


----------



## specr1

Hi,

can someone help me with overclocking using CRU using the "back porch" method

I followed all the instructions. I have the nvidia drivers patched. Disabled "include block extension" and cleared all the custom profiles using NVCP.

But when I set custom resolutions and refresh rates in CRU and restart. It doesn't show up in NVCP.

Thank you


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specr1*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> can someone help me with overclocking using CRU using the "back porch" method
> 
> I followed all the instructions. I have the nvidia drivers patched. Disabled "include block extension" and cleared all the custom profiles using NVCP.
> 
> But when I set custom resolutions and refresh rates in CRU and restart. It doesn't show up in NVCP.
> 
> Thank you


You might try in the windows screen resolution advanced tab instead. Mine did not always show up in the NVCP either.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specr1*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> can someone help me with overclocking using CRU using the "back porch" method
> 
> I followed all the instructions. I have the nvidia drivers patched. Disabled "include block extension" and cleared all the custom profiles using NVCP.
> 
> But when I set custom resolutions and refresh rates in CRU and restart. It doesn't show up in NVCP.
> 
> Thank you


Did you put it in test mode?


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> Monitor is without dead pixels, only with some really small light bleeding


You just need 2 more of them for 3x landscape surround/eyefinity


----------



## specr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Did you put it in test mode?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> You might try in the windows screen resolution advanced tab instead. Mine did not always show up in the NVCP either.


Yes, i found the problem. I was using a back porch value that was too high. When I lowered it back to the original, the custom resolutions showed up.

Just wondering, what back porch values are you guys using?

Thanks


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specr1*
> 
> Yes, i found the problem. I was using a back porch value that was too high. When I lowered it back to the original, the custom resolutions showed up.
> 
> Just wondering, what back porch values are you guys using?
> 
> Thanks


I am using 64 right now.


----------



## specr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am using 64 right now.


Please correct me if I'm mistaken, but this "back porch" method is supposed to overclock the monitors without causing it to dim, correct?

If not, then what are the advantages of using this method?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specr1*
> 
> Please correct me if I'm mistaken, but this "back porch" method is supposed to overclock the monitors without causing it to dim, correct?
> 
> If not, then what are the advantages of using this method?


I use lcd reduced setting to achieve a higher hz. I tried the back porch thing and it did nothing for me.. It made 90hz with 500 back porch as dim as 120hz on lcd reduced..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I use lcd reduced setting to achieve a higher hz. I tried the back porch thing and it did nothing for me.. It made 90hz with 500 back porch as dim as 120hz on lcd reduced..


+1 from me. Back porch did nothing for me.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> You just need 2 more of them for 3x landscape surround/eyefinity


I can say, these things look amazing in tri screen


















Thought in portrait, not landscape, you get the idea though.


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Speaking of color profiles that excellent review links to another set of ICC instructions as well. I don't agree it looks like crap but I will have to spend some more time at 60Hz and compare.


I'd recommend anybody who started overclocking right away spend time at 60. For me it's pretty dramatic. I tried every profile out there and 10 of my own. On all of them there was this indescribable eye fatiguing darkness that went beyond gamma and brightness settings, and reds/oranges/yellows were pretty borked.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> I've come to the sad realization that the reason this display looks so crappy despite all the profiles I try is due to being at 96hz. Reset it to stock and it's much more pleasant to look at, though the mouse movement looks like crap. There really isn't a way to have it all ATM.


I find it bizarre that people are just jumping on the 1440p 60Hz+ Bandwagon without realising what they are buying.

It was known that this panel has no OSD to adjust RGB values; Hue; Saturation; Contrast etc to give accurate colours.

Yet people are buying PLS / IPS panels which are majority used by photo editing enthusiasts due to the panels better colours and complain that the colours are crappy when they overclock the panel.

Editing enthusiasts will have calibration tools and software to create there own ICC profiles to give supreme neutral colours.

So if people are complaining the colours look odd and the ICC profiles in the OP don't give good results for them when overclocked then I suggest you INVEST in something like an Xrite Display 3 Pro and use either Displaycal or Chromapure to get the best colours out of your panels.

There will be variation in ALL panels so it will be highly unlikely that the profiles will be suitable for your monitor. I've tried them all and I was shocked by how much variation there is.

I'm not having a go mate, just need to give the panel credit where it's due, as it looks flipping awesome even when overclocked . Get it professionally calibrated, or just get something cheap like a Spyder 4 and use DisplaycalGUI and calibrate it yourself.

But there is a way to have it all if you're willing to spend some money.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

My monitor has arrived in Brussels, nice! It said something about customs, I wonder if it means it's already through and I'm getting the screen on monday already. That would be flippin' awesome









Oh by the way how is this calibration tool?

ColorMunki Display
http://www.amazon.co.uk/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display-Mac/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?s=software&ie=UTF8&qid=1370078852&sr=1-1&keywords=colormunki


----------



## brightbus

I've come a long way...this was my old three screen setup


----------



## icor1031

Do the matte QNIX monitors have a thick AG coating like Dell, or medium/light like most TN monitors?


----------



## Wolf404

Does the monitor come with a Dual link DVI-D cable?


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Qnix 60hz 16 Bit Lut ICC Profile
> 
> Qnix 96hz 16 Bit Lut ICC Profile
> 
> ICC Profiles made with an i1 display pro colorimeter in basICColor 5. 2.2 Gamma 6500k Color Temperature, -16 brightness clicks


Add these profiles to the OT please. No clue what's different about them but they seem to look great here.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Is there a way to overclock these without using that ToastyX utility? Now whilst it may work consistently for some it doesn't hold and store the refresh rate for me and mid game it looses it's configuration.


Anyone?


----------



## Wolf404

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Anyone?


Only other why that I heard of is to use some Nvidia utility, but it requires an Nvidia GPU to use. I don't have Nvidia so I don't know much more about it.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> I find it bizarre that people are just jumping on the 1440p 60Hz+ Bandwagon without realising what they are buying.
> 
> It was known that this panel has no OSD to adjust RGB values; Hue; Saturation; Contrast etc to give accurate colours.
> 
> Yet people are buying PLS / IPS panels which are majority used by photo editing enthusiasts due to the panels better colours and complain that the colours are crappy when they overclock the panel.
> 
> Editing enthusiasts will have calibration tools and software to create there own ICC profiles to give supreme neutral colours.
> 
> So if people are complaining the colours look odd and the ICC profiles in the OP don't give good results for them when overclocked then I suggest you INVEST in something like an Xrite Display 3 Pro and use either Displaycal or Chromapure to get the best colours out of your panels.
> 
> There will be variation in ALL panels so it will be highly unlikely that the profiles will be suitable for your monitor. I've tried them all and I was shocked by how much variation there is.
> 
> I'm not having a go mate, just need to give the panel credit where it's due, as it looks flipping awesome even when overclocked . Get it professionally calibrated, or just get something cheap like a Spyder 4 and use DisplaycalGUI and calibrate it yourself.
> 
> But there is a way to have it all if you're willing to spend some money.


I had the same problem at 96Hz but MenacingTuba's Qnix 96hz 16 Bit Lut ICC Profile fixed it for me. He recommends -16 BRI from the max so that would be 14, however I find that a bit excessive in usually dimly lit/completely dark room so I reduced that to 10 and it did the trick. I've tried all profiles from the OT and this one seems to be the most balanced. Good colors, no red tint, great blacks and decent whites while a bit on the dim side.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> Only other why that I heard of is to use some Nvidia utility, but it requires an Nvidia GPU to use. I don't have Nvidia so I don't know much more about it.


Thanks. I did try the default NV utility but the whole system started to lag. Mouse movements, screen drags would skip.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> I had the same problem at 96Hz but MenacingTuba's Qnix 96hz 16 Bit Lut ICC Profile fixed it for me. He recommends -16 BRI from the max so that would be 14, however I find that a bit excessive in usually dimly lit/completely dark room so I reduced that to 10 and it did the trick. I've tried all profiles from the OT and this one seems to be the most balanced. Good colors, no red tint, great blacks and decent whites while a bit on the dim side.


My Brother has taken my phone so I can't take a pic so a screen shot will have to do, but this is how much difference it makes (see pic below). The Xrite was done using auto setup and I will get back to it in manual mode to fine tune. I know viewing pics depends on your monitors too but hopefully you can see the differences.

Default



Colour Profile Applied from OCN



XRite Auto Calibrate


----------



## hamzatm

That XRite one looks siiiiiick

On my monitor anyway.


----------



## Wolf404

So, does the Qnix come with the DVI-D cable or do I have to buy one separately?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Dude the answer to like every single question you've asked (and there have been plenty) is in the OP. This one would be covered in the unboxing part if not elsewhere too. (Hint: YES).

And to Manju--there *is* an obvious difference between those three images but as we are viewing them on _our_ displays with _our_ color and calibrations (or lack thereof) we are not able to see exactly what you are seeing color-wise. And, as such, your default looks the best to me and has the most "pop" and the last one looks washed out and awful (though personal pref also comes into play).

And can you link me to that wallpaper?


----------



## andygully

ordered the Matte X-Star DP2710 from hulustar cant wait to get in


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolf404*
> 
> So, does the Qnix come with the DVI-D cable or do I have to buy one separately?


Yes it comes with a cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Dude the answer to like every single question you've asked (and there have been plenty) is in the OP. This one would be covered in the unboxing part if not elsewhere too. (Hint: YES).
> 
> And to Manju while there *is* an obvious differenence between those three images--as we are viewing them on _our_ displays with _our_ color and calibrations (or lack thereof) we are not able to see exactly what you are seeing color-wise. And, as such, your default looks the best to me and has the most "pop" and the last one looks washed out and awful (though personal pref also comes into play).
> 
> And can you link me to that wallpaper?


I can't find the exact wallpaper sorry, but I got it from this site which has some really nice wallpapers.
http://wallpaperswide.com/

I agree with your first statement 100%, that it's hard to show via a picture why you shouldn't rely on the ICC profiles in the OP for your monitors. My point was that there is so much variation that I'd be surprised if one works as "Intended".

As for your comparison of the Calibrated and Default images, you're pretty much bang on. But the Calibrated one is neutral and is meant to look like that. It is not washed at all. The default one is so over saturated that the picture looks like a Tropical Beach, whilst the calibrated one makes it look like a Beach on an overcast day.

The default image has so much blue that it is showing in the rocks and addition to that the foliage and tress in the far background have no definition or separation at all.

Look at the water reflections too in the default image it doesn't enhance the mud at the shallow bed of the river and there is so much white that it distorts the details - reflections of the clouds and trees. etc etc etc

The best way to explain it is by looking at this video and reading through the campaign:
http://www.avforums.com/home/pictureperfect.html

Anyway I'll upload my Profile and add it to this post shortly.
http://www.4shared.com/file/nExLu2YU/DUAL-DVI_2013-06-01_22_HQ_3xGa.html

9 click brightness from bottom. 110hz.


----------



## y2kcamaross

With my gtx 780s I can now run @139hz rock solid, but surprisingly even 1 more mhz it black screens, on my 7970s it'd go all the way top 149 on the desktop


----------



## erikss0n

http://wallpaperswide.com/download/lake_hdr-wallpaper-2560x1440.jpg


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erikss0n*
> 
> http://wallpaperswide.com/download/lake_hdr-wallpaper-2560x1440.jpg


Merci


----------



## erikss0n

Hehe.. I am Swedish so "Tack" would fit even better....


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Yes it comes with a cable.
> I can't find the exact wallpaper sorry, but I got it from this site which has some really nice wallpapers.
> http://wallpaperswide.com/
> 
> I agree with your first statement 100%, that it's hard to show via a picture why you shouldn't rely on the ICC profiles in the OP for your monitors. My point was that there is so much variation that I'd be surprised if one works as "Intended".
> 
> As for your comparison of the Calibrated and Default images, you're pretty much bang on. But the Calibrated one is neutral and is meant to look like that. It is not washed at all. The default one is so over saturated that the picture looks like a Tropical Beach, whilst the calibrated one makes it look like a Beach on an overcast day.
> 
> The default image has so much blue that it is showing in the rocks and addition to that the foliage and tress in the far background have no definition or separation at all.
> 
> Look at the water reflections too in the default image it doesn't enhance the mud at the shallow bed of the river and there is so much white that it distorts the details - reflections of the clouds and trees. etc etc etc
> 
> The best way to explain it is by looking at this video and reading through the campaign:
> http://www.avforums.com/home/pictureperfect.html
> 
> Anyway I'll upload my Profile and add it to this post shortly.
> http://www.4shared.com/file/nExLu2YU/DUAL-DVI_2013-06-01_22_HQ_3xGa.html
> 
> 9 click brightness from bottom. 110hz.


I'll give it a go, matte or glossy?
edit: cant download w/o logging in, mediafire pretty please.


----------



## topthis

Alright guys, did more research and trying to figure out bandwidth issues and from somewhere I read it can take it with a 24AWG cable? Also are the colors worse from 60hz vs 120hz? Don't you just turn up the brightness or do a re-calibration at the refresh rate??


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> The default image has so much blue that it is showing in the rocks and addition to that the foliage and tress in the far background have no definition or separation at all.
> 
> Look at the water reflections too in the default image it doesn't enhance the mud at the shallow bed of the river and there is so much white that it distorts the details - reflections of the clouds and trees. etc etc etc
> 
> The best way to explain it is by looking at this video and reading through the campaign:
> http://www.avforums.com/home/pictureperfect.html


I thought I was the only one who thought the screen looked like it had a blue tint on everything. All the other color profiles that I have tried applying makes the screen even more blue than the default though. Not sure why...


----------



## hamzatm

Everyone's screen is different!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Everyone's screen is different!


Hamzatm Speaks the truth. A LOT of the profiles where practically useless to me. I finally found one that is actually for 96hz that worked for me. Also running your timings different can have a pretty good difference like others have said. After a massive amount of tweaking i was able to get 120hz identical to 60hz with the profile set. Heck i have 144hz working as well but i can't quite get screen uniformity perfect and little things bother me so i had to drop it to 120hz


----------



## wntrsnowg

added to the op under the expandable section "Analysis on Members list form submissions"

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc&single=true&gid=7&output=html&widget=true


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> I'll give it a go, matte or glossy?
> edit: cant download w/o logging in, mediafire pretty please.


Calibrated with xrite i1 display pro iii and DisplacalGUI

Glossy.
110Hz
10 clicks brightness UP from minimum brightness,
Was taken during the day when there was lots of ambient light
120cd/m2, 6500K white point and 2.2 gamma

https://mega.co.nz/#!TxZHlISQ!Bf2QDFqME-OLKBSduWjYvRS1YKtF3FYGi6gbhKBJHFE

Glossy.
96HzHz
9 clicks brightness UP from minimum brightness,
Was taken during the day when there was lots of ambient light
120cd/m2, 6500K white point and 2.2 gamma
https://mega.co.nz/#!WsZ0zT4J!H0TSd38c0bAfp1G-pfza-y9IqWZivHzQPmyhd-X99bU


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> After a massive amount of tweaking i was able to get 120hz identical to 60hz with the profile set. Heck i have 144hz working as well but i can't quite get screen uniformity perfect and little things bother me so i had to drop it to 120hz


I assume by 'tweaking' you mean in the controls in the graphics driver control panel?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> added to the op under the expandable section "Analysis on Members list form submissions"
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc&single=true&gid=7&output=html&widget=true


Less than 5% of owners weren't able to O/C to at least 96 and 45% reached 120hz. Pretty good.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Less than 5% of owners weren't able to O/C to at least 96 and 45% reached 120hz. Pretty good.


Especially when you tale in consideration that some people are still using stock cables, and a low - mid end GPU.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I assume by 'tweaking' you mean in the controls in the graphics driver control panel?


I am using a combination of:

1. CRU settings(not just LCD reduced)
2. The profiles that have been posted here
3. different cables from monoprice 24AWG
4. Combination of different ports on my Gfx cards(yes even trying swapping the primary and secondary cards to seek out the best possible port)
5. Brightness settings on the monitor itself

It is a big game of trial and error to find the sweet spot for each unique panel. I could even do more shuffling the variables to try and get 144hz but quite frankly i am done putting so much time into it.


----------



## snub115

Just a question for those who have gotten their item from hulustar, do you guys only get a 30 day guarantee?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snub115*
> 
> Just a question for those who have gotten their item from hulustar, do you guys only get a 30 day guarantee?


I read that too and am skeptical. Luckily, I haven't had to test that guarantee. Mine was almost flawless besides panel play


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snub115*
> 
> Just a question for those who have gotten their item from hulustar, do you guys only get a 30 day guarantee?


It actually says 14 days. And you will be responsible for shipping fees unless the monitor is not working or has huge flaws. Minor backlight bleed and dead pixels won't work. But A LOT of dead pixels or huge backlight bleed should mean that they cover the cost of shipping as well.


----------



## snub115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I read that too and am skeptical. Luckily, I haven't had to test that guarantee. Mine was almost flawless besides panel play


Did you get the X-star in matte?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> It actually says 14 days. And you will be responsible for shipping fees unless the monitor is not working or has huge flaws. Minor backlight bleed and dead pixels won't work. But A LOT of dead pixels or huge backlight bleed should mean that they cover the cost of shipping as well.


Yea i was rereading the product info and sketched out, since some of the other sellers offer 1 year warranty


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> I find it bizarre that people are just jumping on the 1440p 60Hz+ Bandwagon without realising what they are buying.
> 
> It was known that this panel has no OSD to adjust RGB values; Hue; Saturation; Contrast etc to give accurate colours.
> 
> Yet people are buying PLS / IPS panels which are majority used by photo editing enthusiasts due to the panels better colours and complain that the colours are crappy when they overclock the panel.
> 
> Editing enthusiasts will have calibration tools and software to create there own ICC profiles to give supreme neutral colours.
> 
> So if people are complaining the colours look odd and the ICC profiles in the OP don't give good results for them when overclocked then I suggest you INVEST in something like an Xrite Display 3 Pro and use either Displaycal or Chromapure to get the best colours out of your panels.
> 
> There will be variation in ALL panels so it will be highly unlikely that the profiles will be suitable for your monitor. I've tried them all and I was shocked by how much variation there is.
> 
> I'm not having a go mate, just need to give the panel credit where it's due, as it looks flipping awesome even when overclocked . Get it professionally calibrated, or just get something cheap like a Spyder 4 and use DisplaycalGUI and calibrate it yourself.
> 
> But there is a way to have it all if you're willing to spend some money.


I was already on the 1440p bandwagon. I got a pls to try something different. I doubt a "professional" profile will fix the issues I had as I tried 9 of my own. What I think a lot of people are doing wrong is jumping on the OC bandwagon assuming a profile can fix this issue. It can't. It's been established the issue is the hardware itself isn't capable of delivering the same quality at those speeds. I'm giving this panel all the credit I can but even calibrated it's not as neutral as my crossover, and it's not even in the same ballpark with an overclock. Black levels and low defect rate (not counting the blb) are it's saving grace, but it's still up in the air which I'll keep.


----------



## wntrsnowg

No, i got a qnix, matte


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> I was already on the 1440p bandwagon. I got a pls to try something different. I doubt a "professional" profile will fix the issues I had as I tried 9 of my own. What I think a lot of people are doing wrong is jumping on the OC bandwagon assuming a profile can fix this issue. It can't. It's been established the issue is the hardware itself isn't capable of delivering the same quality at those speeds. I'm giving this panel all the credit I can but even calibrated it's not as neutral as my crossover, and it's not even in the same ballpark with an overclock. Black levels and low defect rate (not counting the blb) are it's saving grace, but it's still up in the air which I'll keep.


It seems for the price, this is the best monitor unless you want to become a professional gamer or require professional color accuracy. Anything else that comes close requires almost double the price such as Dell, Samsung, or Asus. Most people won't require professional color accuracy and won't be playing FPS games at a professional level so I believe this is the best all-around monitor for the price. I just hate the back bleeds.


----------



## Paps.pt

I totally agree


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> It seems for the price, this is the best monitor unless you want to become a professional gamer or require professional color accuracy. Anything else that comes close requires almost double the price such as Dell, Samsung, or Asus. Most people won't require professional color accuracy and won't be playing FPS games at a professional level so I believe this is the best all-around monitor for the price. I just hate the back bleeds.


well said


----------



## bigmarcel

howdy folks

I have a question regarding the Qnix 2710 evolution II

I'm trying to purchase one off ebay but I have an HD 6850, and it's not on the compatibility chart since it isn't DVI-D. is there an adapter I can use to make it work or will I need to purchase a different GPU or monitor instead?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

It needs DVI-D or DVI-I; sure you don't have the latter? If not there is not an adapter that can rectify.


----------



## bigmarcel

Ah, looking at the back now I see that it does indeed have the DVI-D, but the online specs for my HD6850 gigabyte dont display it.

Just to make certain the DVI-D are the ones that go: [ - ::::::: ]


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> It needs DVI-D or DVI-I; sure you don't have the latter? If not there is not an adapter that can rectify.


Please do not confuse this further - it has already been explained.

For those that do need it explained again:

DVI-D = digital only DVI
DVI-I = analog+digital DVI
Both DVI-I and DVI-D can come in either dual-link or single-link
A DVI-D cable will plug into both DVI-D and DVI-I connectors
A DVI-I cable will only plug into DVI-I connectors
A TV/Monitor that has a DVI-D connector and only works with dual-link DVI can be connected via both a dual-link DVI-D and dual-link DVI-I from a gfx card, as long as a DVI-D cable is used - it will not work with a DVI-I cable, because a DVI-I has 4 extra pins that will not allow the cable to be plugged into a DVI-D connector
An image (from HERE) to illustrate:


I hope this clears this up for the last time.


----------



## brightbus

as long as its dual link


----------



## bigmarcel

Mine is definitely DVI-D DL, thanks everyone.

You guys think hulustar will accept an offer of $290? Anyone have luck making offers to them?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> I hope this clears this up for the last time.


lol


----------



## brightbus

So what graphics cards are everyone using to power these things? Right now Im runninx crossfired 7870's but thinking about upgrading to 7970. Not sure if I should wait on amd's next gen or not.
(I'm running three monitors btw)


----------



## bigmarcel

If everything is running without a hitch, I think it would be conventional to wait for AMD's next gen. That's what I am doing rather than replacing my HD 6850.

Reading the thread now though from the start I am having second thought about purchasing a Korean monitor, it seems like there's a lot of DIY repairing involved with them and it makes me nervous.

It feels like I'm taking a pretty big risk with one of these.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmarcel*
> 
> If everything is running without a hitch, I think it would be conventional to wait for AMD's next gen. That's what I am doing rather than replacing my HD 6850.
> 
> Reading the thread now though from the start I am having second thought about purchasing a Korean monitor, it seems like there's a lot of DIY repairing involved with them and it makes me nervous.
> 
> It feels like I'm taking a pretty big risk with one of these.


I'm running three, and I didn't have any issues with any of them. (one had one stuck pixel, the other two had none, minimal backlight bleed) But yes, it is a risk. If you live in the US theres always squaretrade for peace of mind. I need the graphical power for when I decide to run three screens. Some games have no issues since they aren't that demanding (80 fps on league of legends on three screens.) I was able to eek out 35 fps in bioshock with everything at max but man those cards sounded like jet engines, rather not run them like that for any extended period of time. With computers theres always something better coming out, amd still hasnt officially announced the desktop 8k/9k series and whether its coming out this year or next.


----------



## bigmarcel

Do you play highly demanding games more than league?

In that case I would consider the 7970 to be worth it, as there is no point in having to wait a year or til the end of this year to enjoy your 3 monitor set up.

Gonna try to snipe a phone off ebay and if I don't manage to then I guess I'll pull the trigger on a Qnix qx2710 in matte.


----------



## topthis

Guyscan't you just counter act the 120hz dim with brightness and all? So it would look the same as 60hz or is there actually something im missing here...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> Guyscan't you just counter act the 120hz dim with brightness and all? So it would look the same as 60hz or is there actually something im missing here...


It is not just brightness, it is the contrast and color hue all get thrown off therefor making a bit harder than just turning up the brightness.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmarcel*
> 
> Do you play highly demanding games more than league?
> 
> In that case I would consider the 7970 to be worth it, as there is no point in having to wait a year or til the end of this year to enjoy your 3 monitor set up.
> 
> Gonna try to snipe a phone off ebay and if I don't manage to then I guess I'll pull the trigger on a Qnix qx2710 in matte.


I have a lot of games, about 60 on steam, just haven't gotten around to playing them yet. I do play league more than anything else, but I do play other games as well. The last game i finished playing was bioshock infinite. I mean alot of games aren't that demanding, but when you go from 1080p to 4320*2560 or 7680x1440 games suddenly get alot more demanding


----------



## topthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> It is not just brightness, it is the contrast and color hue all get thrown off therefor making a bit harder than just turning up the brightness.


So if you had a color calibrator like the spyder 4 then wouldn't it fix all the issues making 120hz vs 60hz the same colors and all?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> So if you had a color calibrator like the spyder 4 then wouldn't it fix all the issues making 120hz vs 60hz the same colors and all?


It may or may not, 120hz is not a guaranteed operating frequency so it depends on how good of a monitor you got. I will say a spyder 4 would either get you there or as close as possible.


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> So if you had a color calibrator like the spyder 4 then wouldn't it fix all the issues making 120hz vs 60hz the same colors and all?


Yes it does, on my one at 110Hz anyway. However some people have reported clouding and uniformity issues at high overclocks.


----------



## brightbus

Hmm for my setup what does everyone thing of this card?

http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-DL-DVI-I-SL-DVI-D-PCI-Express-11197-05-40G/dp/B0098HW0H2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

6 gigs of ram, which would come in handy for pushing 3 of these displays (and 6 gig dedicated to one gpu, yeah the 7990 has 6 gigs, but thats 3 gigs mirrored since thats crossfired.) Don't see many reviews for this card, but the ones I see are pretty positive.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Hmm for my setup what does everyone thing of this card?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-DL-DVI-I-SL-DVI-D-PCI-Express-11197-05-40G/dp/B0098HW0H2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
> 
> 6 gigs of ram, which would come in handy for pushing 3 of these displays (and 6 gig dedicated to one cpu, yeah the 7990 has 6 gigs, but thats 3 gigs mirrored since thats crossfired.) Don't see many reviews for this card, but the ones I see are pretty positive.


Hmm, I'm not sure, is this the best video card that $560 can buy these days?

I don't know, just something to think about.


----------



## brightbus

Probably not the best, but it is a 7970. And it seems that multiple displays eat ram for breakfast. Seems like there are no other video cards that have 6 gigs of ram besides the titan or dual gpu solutions like the 7990 (which is really just 3 gigs since crossfired) I mean to go up to a titan is like 400 more. would pushing three screens with 3 gigs be doable? It seems like more than that is needed. I know there are 4 gig nvidia cards as well, though Id prefer to stay amd.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Probably not the best, but it is a 7970. And it seems that multiple displays eat ram for breakfast. Seems like there are no other video cards that have 6 gigs of ram besides the titan or dual gpu solutions like the 7990 (which is really just 3 gigs since crossfired) I mean to go up to a titan is like 400 more. would pushing three screens with 3 gigs be doable? It seems like more than that is needed. I know there are 4 gig nvidia cards as well, though Id prefer to stay amd.


Actually the 7990 has access to all 6 gbs not 3 mirrored.. Tech of tomorrow did a review and explained that..As I always thought the same thing as you..


----------



## King4x4

Well to get these screens working you need to buy an expensive displayport adapter and most of them only support 60hz.

Best cards to buy for surround gaming are 3x770 4gb or 3x780 3gb (a user on [h] the 3gb is good 3x1440 with no AA).

Had [email protected] and switched to three 6804gb... the performance loss was worth it for the dedicated dvi port!


----------



## KaiserFrederick

Just ordered a 0-2 Dead Pixel QNIX from zoneforbuyer after reading through every post in this thread







Here's hoping my BLB isn't too horrible...


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaiserFrederick*
> 
> Just ordered a 0-2 Dead Pixel QNIX from zoneforbuyer after reading through every post in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's hoping my BLB isn't too horrible...


Haven't heard of anyone buying from that seller before. Let us know how it goes.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Actually the 7990 has access to all 6 gbs not 3 mirrored.. Tech of tomorrow did a review and explained that..As I always thought the same thing as you..


I checked like 4-5 reputable review sites, and they all said that each gpu only has access to 3 gigs, its how its made. So technically I guess you are using 6 gigs, but its not the same as it using all 6 gigs at once, its not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Well to get these screens working you need to buy an expensive displayport adapter and most of them only support 60hz.
> 
> Best cards to buy for surround gaming are 3x770 4gb or 3x780 3gb (a user on [h] the 3gb is good 3x1440 with no AA).
> 
> Had [email protected] and switched to three 6804gb... the performance loss was worth it for the dedicated dvi port!


The adapters I have are supposed to be able to go to 120 hz. User reviews have stated that they have gotten that on three monitors. And even with the gtx from what I see you still are going to need at least one adapter since they only have 2 dvis.

The 4 gig varient of the 770 seems to be either unavalible or sold out so far. From what I understand running 3 monitors at 1440 seems to push the limit to at least 3 gigs. I was able to eek 35 fps out of my dual 7870s in bioshock, so maybe jumping to dual 7970s or a 7990 is the way to go. I was just curious about the card I posted since it seems to be the only single gpu amd that has 6 gigs of ram.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I checked like 4-5 reputable review sites, and they all said that each gpu only has access to 3 gigs, its how its made. So technically I guess you are using 6 gigs, but its not the same as it using all 6 gigs at once, its not.
> The adapters I have are supposed to be able to go to 120 hz. User reviews have stated that they have gotten that on three monitors. And even with the gtx from what I see you still are going to need at least one adapter since they only have 2 dvis.
> 
> The 4 gig varient of the 770 seems to be either unavalible or sold out so far. From what I understand running 3 monitors at 1440 seems to push the limit to at least 3 gigs. I was able to eek 35 fps out of my dual 7870s in bioshock, so maybe jumping to dual 7970s or a 7990 is the way to go. I was just curious about the card I posted since it seems to be the only single gpu amd that has 6 gigs of ram.


I don't really need 120 fps at all. I'd be happy to get a stable 60 with games


----------



## slh28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Probably not the best, but it is a 7970. And it seems that multiple displays eat ram for breakfast. Seems like there are no other video cards that have 6 gigs of ram besides the titan or dual gpu solutions like the 7990 (which is really just 3 gigs since crossfired) I mean to go up to a titan is like 400 more. would pushing three screens with 3 gigs be doable? It seems like more than that is needed. I know there are 4 gig nvidia cards as well, though Id prefer to stay amd.


A single 7970 won't get you anywhere near playable framerates at 7680x1440, regardless of whether it has 3GB or 6GB VRAM because the GPU isn't powerful enough. You'll need at least 3 of them if you want 60fps in modern games at medium/high settings. I came from 5760x1080 with 2x 7970's and was able to play most games at high/max settings, but bear in mind that 7680x1440 is 1.8 times that resolution.


----------



## King4x4

Nvidia surroud requires you to plug each dvi to each card installed.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slh28*
> 
> A single 7970 won't get you anywhere near playable framerates at 7680x1440, regardless of whether it has 3GB or 6GB VRAM because the GPU isn't powerful enough. You'll need at least 3 of them if you want 60fps in modern games at medium/high settings. I came from 5760x1080 with 2x 7970's and was able to play most games at high/max settings, but bear in mind that 7680x1440 is 1.8 times that resolution.


Thanks! Maybe I was running some voodoo getting 35 fps in Bioshock, then again I assume it's not that demanding of a game compared to others.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Nvidia surroud requires you to plug each dvi to each card installed.


Ahh ok. Not as well versed in nvidia cards. I guess not being able to use the outputs on the second card is an amd limitation.

I didn't really wanna pay more, but hey you have to pay to play right? How about a 7990 then, and getting a 7970 to crossfire with it later? Ima probably need a new psu as well, but comes with the territory.


----------



## majnu

I've got image retention on my screen.

On a brown background I can see the address bar of my browser quite clearly?


----------



## brightbus

Have you overclocked at all. Seems that it usually goes away.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Have you overclocked at all. Seems that it usually goes away.


I am on my phone right now. When I get home I will find that link from tech of tomorrow explaining how you have 6gbs of vram and not 3 times 2..He could be wrong..


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Have you overclocked at all. Seems that it usually goes away.


yes 110hz, I was inspecting the screen properly today and running 12 shades of each colour and a light shade of brown made it visible.


----------



## kxdu

I'm about to install my Gateway monitor stand via the vesa mount but realized it didn't come with screws.

Anyone know if the monitor is a M4 or M8 screw?


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Glossy.
> 110Hz
> 9 clicks brightness UP from minimum brightness,
> Was taken during the day when there was lots of ambient light
> 120cd/m2, 6500K white point and 2.2 gamma
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/download/d7qd7bul765mcb1/DUAL-DVI_2013-06-01_2.2_HQ_3xGamma%2BMTX.icm
> 
> Another taken during the night
> 8 clicks brightness UP from minimum brightness
> https://mega.co.nz/#!b85l0S4D!WonP8xvlUEV7MRrpJB5DOjeayvUa193yRpho_x80WFc
> 
> Glossy.
> 96HzHz
> 9 clicks brightness UP from minimum brightness,
> Was taken during the day when there was lots of ambient light
> 120cd/m2, 6500K white point and 2.2 gamma
> https://mega.co.nz/#!WsZ0zT4J!H0TSd38c0bAfp1G-pfza-y9IqWZivHzQPmyhd-X99bU


Included 96Hz Profile in case it helps anyone too. Feel free to add this to the OP.


----------



## arvidab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> I'm about to install my Gateway monitor stand via the vesa mount but realized it didn't come with screws.
> 
> Anyone know if the monitor is a M4 or M8 screw?


The Vesa mount is M4 on these.


----------



## OneGun

Brightbus I found the YouTube video I was talking about. I am still on my phone so I hope it post.. If not I will try again later from home.. Hope this help..


----------



## Spartan F8

I don't know why this has not been brought up here before but if anyone wants to confirm there stability or actual refresh you can use powerstrip's refresh rate counter. Do remember though you will get in-accurate readings if you have multiple displays active.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I don't know why this has not been brought up here before but if anyone wants to confirm there stability or actual refresh you can use powerstrip's refresh rate counter. Do remember though you will get in-accurate readings if you have multiple displays active.


Did mine when I got it and it's accurate. PS reads 96.0 with a 96Hz refresh rate.

For those who don't know just follow this guys instruction in the video. 12:50 inwards


----------



## Strileckifunk

Without having to go through all the pages here, can someone run me by calibrating my Qnix?


----------



## hamzatm

You go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

Then you work through it. Adjust settings in Nvidia control panel (and brightness on the QNIX itself).

Just make sure what you set it to is something that works for you! Not what should be right according to lagom or according to anyone else. Make sure you enjoy your picture and you will be happy


----------



## Strileckifunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> You go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
> 
> Then you work through it. Adjust settings in Nvidia control panel (and brightness on the QNIX itself).
> 
> Just make sure what you set it to is something that works for you! Not what should be right according to lagom or according to anyone else. Make sure you enjoy your picture and you will be happy


Is there anything special I have to do since I'm AMD and not Nvidia?


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> Is there anything special I have to do since I'm AMD and not Nvidia?


Nah, just adjust settings in CCC instead of in Nvidia control panel


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> Is there anything special I have to do since I'm AMD and not Nvidia?


There are also ICC profiles made on this display using calibrators. Can find in OP and throughout thread. Read up on TFTCentral.com for more info on how to use them.


----------



## arvidab

Got a Qnix Matte a few weeks back, from dream-seller. It took a while to reach the cold north, but it did make it eventually.
326 USD and another 95 USD in tax, yea living in Sweden we have to deal with such crap.

Original stand was very wobbly and I had a lot of panel play. Took apart it and fixed it this week and put in on a dual-monitor-stand which clamps onto the desk which saves precious space (my desk is kinda shallow).

Luckily I can't see that I have any dead pixels and only very minor blb which I can't see when I'm using it only when I look for it. I do have one stuck pixel (red) which seems to come and go, saw it for the first time this week but later disappeared but now it's there again, you can see it in the pic below. Is this a sign it might be dying?

Very satisfied with the picture quality overall, coming from a Dell U2311, currently running the Dell as a second monitor, but my stand really wants another of these monitors. Last week was my birthday and I didn't get (me) anything...










(yes, I'm running without a bezel atm)


Moderately amount of blb and not noticeable in normal use, you can also see the stuck pixel in the top-middle

Running the standard cable and I have not yet tried to overclock this. I'm on Linux Mint 15, so no help from OP there, but I think someone mentioned that he was also running Linux and had OC'd his monitor. I'm running a HD5450 right now but will pop in a 560Ti shortly.

Another little annoyance is that the status led is still shines bright red when I turn off my monitor. I think I read someone 'fixing' that as well.


----------



## kxdu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Also, for the people looking to replace the stock stand, I would recommend this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
> 
> swivels to landscape and also has USB ports, similar to the dell ultrasharp stands


So I went ahead and took it apart to remove the stand, easier than expected. Went to Home Depot to purchase four M4-8mm screws to get it mounted, here's what it looks like for anyone interested. This is what it looks like at the tallest setting, use the wireless mouse for size reference.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Hey guys I have a quick question.

I am working towards getting the Qnix screen, and I was looking at swapping my 2GB GTX 670 for a 3GB amd 7970. One of my friends said that Nvidia will OC the screen higher than AMD will. He is kind of a nvidia fan boy, so I wanted to get some non-biased opinions if you catch my drift


----------



## hamzatm

it used to be that nvidia was better because AMD locked the pixel clock to a crappy limit.

But I think nowadays you can get the pixel clock unlocker for both amd and nvidia so I don't know.

Edit: Nvidia can definitely clock to 120Hz and over, look through the thread and see if AMD can do the same. Or check the FAQ. Or check the owners list with the overclocks.


----------



## arvidab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Also, for the people looking to replace the stock stand, I would recommend this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
> 
> swivels to landscape and also has USB ports, similar to the dell ultrasharp stands
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and took it apart to remove the stand, easier than expected. Went to Home Depot to purchase four M4-8mm screws to get it mounted, here's what it looks like for anyone interested. This is what it looks like at the tallest setting, use the wireless mouse for size reference.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1492123/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1492125/width/350/height/700
Click to expand...

Looks like a nice stand. Good you went with the short screws, forgot to mention the mounting holes are really shallow.


----------



## brightbus

Looks like a good stand. The screws that came with my stand were too long, I got some washers to rectify that.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I am buying that stand. Thanks and +rep the for heads up about it (and the screws) and the pics. Is there a mini usb to activate the ports on the display from the PC?


----------



## kxdu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I am buying that stand. Thanks and +rep the for heads up about it (and the screws) and the pics. Is there a mini usb to activate the ports on the display from the PC?


yup, usb cable and ac adapter included


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Hey guys I have a quick question.
> 
> I am working towards getting the Qnix screen, and I was looking at swapping my 2GB GTX 670 for a 3GB amd 7970. One of my friends said that Nvidia will OC the screen higher than AMD will. He is kind of a nvidia fan boy, so I wanted to get some non-biased opinions if you catch my drift


I am running two 7950s and I run at 120 with no issues and I can get 130 with faint green lines showing up.. With the Amd patch you can oc the same as nvidia.. It all just depends on what monitor you get..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I am running two 7950s and I run at 120 with no issues and I can get 130 with faint green lines showing up.. With the Amd patch you can oc the same as nvidia.. It all just depends on what monitor you get..


I have crossfired 7870's and was able to get 120 hz no problem. 144 was a no go, scan lines, scan lines everywhere.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> yup, usb cable and ac adapter included


Right on and thanks again. Glad I haven't opened it for taping yet; can kill two birds with one stone when need to install stand. Have you tried putting it in portrait position yet?

Edit: Ah no screws included cause Gateway customers for whom this was intended would use their original screws.

http://support.gateway.com/s/MONITOR/8010541/8010541mvr3.shtml


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Also, for the people looking to replace the stock stand, I would recommend this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
> 
> swivels to landscape and also has USB ports, similar to the dell ultrasharp stands
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and took it apart to remove the stand, easier than expected. Went to Home Depot to purchase four M4-8mm screws to get it mounted, here's what it looks like for anyone interested. This is what it looks like at the tallest setting, use the wireless mouse for size reference.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1492123/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1492125/width/350/height/700
Click to expand...

How is the stand? Shakey, wobbily? Trying to find the best budget solution


----------



## snub115

Just an update guys hulustar says i have 1 year warranty, as well item shipped today via dhl lets see how long it takes to ship to [alberta] and if they ding me with customs.


----------



## snub115

Just an update guys hulustar says i have 1 year warranty, as well item shipped today via dhl lets see how long it takes to ship to [alberta] and if they ding me with customs.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Damn it! I was hoping to get my monitor today but when I go to dhl website it says this:

03 Jun 13 8:26 AM - Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment - BRUSSELS,BELGIUM








I guess I'll call them.


----------



## HHawk

Well I decided to give the QNIX QX2710 also a go (ordered it from bigclothcraft).
Hopefully all go well.

I am going to use it replace my Hazro HZ27WC.

I also ordered a "better" DVI cable.
I ordered a DVI-D Dual Link cable from thatcable.com. They make good quality cables for a reasonable price. I ordered some HDMI cables 2 years ago and they worked great.

Here is direct link: http://www.thatcable.com/product/Loops-DVI-D-Male-to-DVI-D-Male-Video-Cable-Lead-Dual-Link
For those interested and find Monoprice's shipping fee to high (at least to Europe).

This is the first I see a company listing supported resolutions which are higher than Full HD or similar.
Quote:


> QXGA (2048 × 1536) @ 75 Hz with GTF blanking (2×170 MHz)
> HDTV (1920 × 1080) @ 85 Hz with GTF blanking (2×126 MHz)
> WQXGA (2560 × 1600) @ 60 Hz with GTF blanking (2x174 MHz) (30" Apple, Dell, HP, Quinux, and Samsung LCDs)
> WQUXGA (3840 × 2400) @ 33 Hz with GTF blanking (2x159 MHz)


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Damn it! I was hoping to get my monitor today but when I go to dhl website it says this:
> 
> 03 Jun 13 8:26 AM - Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment - BRUSSELS,BELGIUM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I'll call them.


Stupid customs and there stupid rules.....


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Well I decided to give the QNIX QX2710 also a go (ordered it from bigclothcraft).
> Hopefully all go well.
> 
> I am going to use it replace my Hazro HZ27WC.
> 
> I also ordered a "better" DVI cable.
> I ordered a DVI-D Dual Link cable from thatcable.com. They make good quality cables for a reasonable price. I ordered some HDMI cables 2 years ago and they worked great.
> 
> Here is direct link: http://www.thatcable.com/product/Loops-DVI-D-Male-to-DVI-D-Male-Video-Cable-Lead-Dual-Link
> For those interested and find Monoprice's shipping fee to high (at least to Europe).
> 
> This is the first I see a company listing supported resolutions which are higher than Full HD or similar.


Sweet..I hope you get a great monitor..I was at monoprice's warehouse last Thursday..That place is pretty dang big..My shipping from them is like $5 for overnight..I am gonna buy some cables tomorrow cause my stock ones wont screw into the monitor lol..But a old pair will so i know its the cable..O well i still get 120hz on a jimmy rigged none screwed in cable..


----------



## Vulpix

I'm still surprised DVI cable quality matters. After I changed mine to higher quality ones, I could do 120hz without any flickering.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Sweet..I hope you get a great monitor..I was at monoprice's warehouse last Thursday..That place is pretty dang big..My shipping from them is like $5 for overnight..I am gonna buy some cables tomorrow cause my stock ones wont screw into the monitor lol..But a old pair will so i know its the cable..O well i still get 120hz on a jimmy rigged none screwed in cable..


I'm telling you the stock ones will plug in







you just need a small flat head screwdriver. I couldn't even get my aftermarket cables to screw in without one.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I'm telling you the stock ones will plug in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you just need a small flat head screwdriver. I couldn't even get my aftermarket cables to screw in without one.


Ok i will give it a shot tomorrow..Thank you:thumb:


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Sweet..I hope you get a great monitor..I was at monoprice's warehouse last Thursday..That place is pretty dang big..My shipping from them is like $5 for overnight..I am gonna buy some cables tomorrow cause my stock ones wont screw into the monitor lol..But a old pair will so i know its the cable..O well i still get 120hz on a jimmy rigged none screwed in cable..


For me (Netherlands) shipping from Monoprice is only 'profitable' if I order a lot more. They use FedEx and paying ~30 USD for shipping (for a single cable) is not acceptable.

I did order from Monoprice in the past, however I needed many cables back than and than the total costs of all the cables (including FedEx shipping) was still cheaper than purchasing those same cables in the Netherlands. If I remeber correctly it saved me back than about 70% of the price which I would have to pay in my own country! Absurd!

I needed a different cables anyways, because of the distance my PC is at. Haha. So I went for 3 meters.


----------



## majnu

Thing with Monoprice they increase the shipping rates as you increase the Qty of cables even if you add 1.









I also ordered 2 to make the cost per cable seem more reasonable. I got there 6ft and 10ft cable. Which has still not arrived. I wonder if I can track it.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thing with Monoprice they increase the shipping rates as you increase the Qty of cables even if you add 1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also ordered 2 to make the cost per cable seem more reasonable. I got there 6ft and 10ft cable. Which has still not arrived. I wonder if I can track it.


You should be able to get a tracking number by logging on to there website..


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> You go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
> 
> Then you work through it. Adjust settings in Nvidia control panel (and brightness on the QNIX itself).
> 
> Just make sure what you set it to is something that works for you! Not what should be right according to lagom or according to anyone else. Make sure you enjoy your picture and you will be happy


Colour Calibration involves a lot more than setting the brightness and contrast ratios. Even though you can use CCC or NVCP to adjust RGB, Hue and Saturation you're still doing it by eye and using it to judge what RGB should look like.

Using a colorimeter you're allowing the software to display various shades of colours which the colorimeter then reports back what it's currently seeing. If it doesn't match with the industry standard values the software will then adjust RGB, luminence, gamma etc to bring it to what it should be. The output from this is a ICC/ICM profile which is unique to your panel.

P.S Where abouts in Manchester are you from?


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> You should be able to get a tracking number by logging on to there website..


Scheduled Delivery:
Thursday, 06/06/2013, By End of Day
Last Location:
Ontario, CA, United States, Friday, 05/31/2013

I better not get charged tax for this. I shouldn't though as the cables cost $16.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Scheduled Delivery:
> Thursday, 06/06/2013, By End of Day
> Last Location:
> Ontario, CA, United States, Friday, 05/31/2013
> 
> I better not get charged tax for this. I shouldn't though as the cables cost $16.


It's last location is like 20miles from my house..That means they are at Ontario airport..


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Colour Calibration involves a lot more than setting the brightness and contrast ratios. Even though you can use CCC or NVCP to adjust RGB, Hue and Saturation you're still doing it by eye and using it to judge what RGB should look like.
> 
> Using a colorimeter you're allowing the software to display various shades of colours which the colorimeter then reports back what it's currently seeing. If it doesn't match with the industry standard values the software will then adjust RGB, luminence, gamma etc to bring it to what it should be. The output from this is a ICC/ICM profile which is unique to your panel.
> 
> P.S Where abouts in Manchester are you from?


Lagom has a whole suite of tests, not just for brightness and contrast ratios, my point was don't bother using setting too much stock in other peoples professionally calibrated ICC profiles. Use them but make sure you finish off your calibration by eye for what looks good to you.

Of course a colorimeter would be ideal if you can afford it. But if you aren't a colour professional I firmly believe you really don't need to buy one: for example some people prefer a lot of saturation which isn't industry standard. But it's what they like. Should they buy a colorimeter and use the industry standard values just because they are "right"? No, use what works for you because your job does not depend on perfect colour like it would for colour professionals. Just because something is "industry standard" doesn't mean you will like it and doesn't mean you should force yourself to use it if you don't like it.

I believe this ideal is perfectly suited to people in this thread. If you are a colour professional then you really wouldn't be buying a Korean IPS/PLS for your job! I don't want people having incorrect dreams about how awesome calibration will be, when in fact it doesn't offer all that much to the regular user. It won't turn your monitor from OK into fantastically awesome, for example.

P.S I live in Hulme in Manchester, near the City Centre


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Lagom has a whole suite of tests, not just for brightness and contrast ratios, my point was don't bother using setting too much stock in other peoples professionally calibrated ICC profiles. Use them but make sure you finish off your calibration by eye for what looks good to you.
> 
> Of course a colorimeter would be ideal if you can afford it. But if you aren't a colour professional I firmly believe you really don't need to buy one: for example some people prefer a lot of saturation which isn't industry standard. But it's what they like. Should they buy a colorimeter and use the industry standard values just because they are "right"? No, use what works for you because your job does not depend on perfect colour like it would for colour professionals. Just because something is "industry standard" doesn't mean you will like it and doesn't mean you should force yourself to use it if you don't like it.
> 
> I believe this ideal is perfectly suited to people in this thread. If you are a colour professional then you really wouldn't be buying a Korean IPS/PLS for your job! I don't want people having incorrect dreams about how awesome calibration will be, when in fact it doesn't offer all that much to the regular user. It won't turn your monitor from OK into fantastically awesome, for example.
> 
> P.S I live in Hulme in Manchester, near the City Centre


I'm very close to you in Trafford area and can calibrate your monitor if you like


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Colour Calibration involves a lot more than setting the brightness and contrast ratios. Even though you can use CCC or NVCP to adjust RGB, Hue and Saturation you're still doing it by eye and using it to judge what RGB should look like.
> 
> Using a colorimeter you're allowing the software to display various shades of colours which the colorimeter then reports back what it's currently seeing. If it doesn't match with the industry standard values the software will then adjust RGB, luminence, gamma etc to bring it to what it should be. The output from this is a ICC/ICM profile which is unique to your panel.
> 
> P.S Where abouts in Manchester are you from?


100% agreed with the calibration.

You can't calibrate by eye, you should use a calibration tool like X-RITE.

http://www.xrite.com/


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Meh I have brought home various calibrators (Color Munki and an X-Rite DTP-94b so far also have an i1 Pro) from work and I am not too impressed with the results as yet compared to other ICCs I've downloaded (but am still testing and trying different software). It is not written in stone that getting a calibrator is going to make a huge difference especially as you are not stuck with "out of the box" color if you don't have one.


----------



## inzajt

Im in love with the screen, coming from a Benq XL2410T the BLB is really good, could be better tho. Doing 120hz without any issues what so ever.

I do have one problem tho, I cant seem to get my benq monitor to work when I have the QNIX overclocked. Since I only have one DVI-D on my 6990 I have to run the benq @ 60hz which causes serious flickering. Does anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> I'm very close to you in Trafford area and can calibrate your monitor if you like


Thanks very much for the offer! I'm not too fussed though in reality, my QNIX is currently not in use until I get a bigger desk and I can run it side by side with my trusty gamer-friendly lightboost enabled XL2411T! Cheers though


----------



## kxdu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Right on and thanks again. Glad I haven't opened it for taping yet; can kill two birds with one stone when need to install stand. Have you tried putting it in portrait position yet?
> 
> Edit: Ah no screws included cause Gateway customers for whom this was intended would use their original screws.
> 
> http://support.gateway.com/s/MONITOR/8010541/8010541mvr3.shtml


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> How is the stand? Shakey, wobbily? Trying to find the best budget solution


Works fine in portrait and landscape mode, rotates very nicely.

The stand itself is very sturdy, I just tried to wobble it and it doesn't shift at all. Very good quality stand compared to my U2412m.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Also, for the people looking to replace the stock stand, I would recommend this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
> 
> swivels to landscape and also has USB ports, similar to the dell ultrasharp stands


I found this as well for those that want a singular solution.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Two-LCD-Monitor-Desk-Mount-Adjustable-Double-Arms/190814800843?_trksid=p2047675.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555003%26algo%3DPW.CAT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D142%26meid%3D8123566806364108807%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D1076%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D120857358937%26


----------



## sidewu

I have just ordered the x-star on ebay. I am paying with e-check via paypal so it should take 6-8 days to clear, then 6-8 days to be shipped at my place. I will update with pictures as soon as I receive it.


----------



## lee63

The main problem I have with my monitor is that on certain sites the color is darker - different on one side of the screen, I don't see it in games though. Any way of fixing this ?


----------



## Yeren

Hi all, i have the X-Star glossy, i have a very strange issue though and was wondering if anyone else has come across this, to me it seems to defy the laws of electronics.

It only works with the cable it came with, i have now bought an addition 4 cables, plus i already had 3, all DVI-D dual link, the last two the highest quality i could find. How can this be?
The cable it came with is too short for where my MacPro is located, so im in a pickle. I cant see how it could be wired differently as then it shouldn't get the signal from my GTX285 card in the first place.

Any help would be deeply appreciated. Its the only thing stopping me from buying a second one, since i cant even use the first properly


----------



## Timu

^Strange, I just got my Tripp Lite 6 ft DVI-D cable and it works perfectly.


----------



## brightbus

Weird, do you have any other computers you could try to see if its from the pc side?


----------



## Yeren

Tried it with my older windows machine and same deal, works with the supplied cable but not with any of the other, although (as i forgot to add in my earlier post) they do all work with other monitors, even the samsung 27" in the living room


----------



## brightbus

wow that is weird, I have never ever heard of that issue.


----------



## Yeren

Nuts!









I was so hoping someone would say something 'oh thats bla bla bla, do this and all will be well.'

Its certainly got me stumped too.


----------



## OneGun

Could it be a DVI-i cable it came with?


----------



## Yeren

No, its definitely DVI-D, in fact the very first cable i bought (not counted in the 4 i said i bought earlier) i accidentally bought a DVI-I dual link cable. Should have paid more attention. But i didn't even notice till i tried plugging it in, which obviously did not work.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Damn it, I hate DHL. They never recontacted me yesterday, shipment is still stuck in Brussels. I want my monitor!!!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Damn it, I hate DHL. They never recontacted me yesterday, shipment is still stuck in Brussels. I want my monitor!!!


----------



## brightbus

Yeah I'm not a fan of DHL either, not at all.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Yeah I'm not a fan of DHL either, not at all.


I got my QNIX monitor without a single ding on the box from DHL..When i got my monoprice monitor which was shipped only 20 miles to my house there were giant holes in the box..But that was from a off the wall no name shipper lol..He brought it in his 86 accord haha..But when i get something from newegg with fedex or amazon with ups shipping my boxes get tore up..


----------



## brightbus

My first monitor I ordered and was shipped through dhl, they refused to ship to my address because it was a ups store, big issues..I got it eventually, but I was not happy.


----------



## HHawk

Shipped with UPS!


----------



## dzap

Glad to be back to non-dictatorship OC.net like last year.
Mine is comming to Lithuania via DHL from 'storewithstory' off ebay. Will fill the form once tested. Btw, all the rest of the sellers asked 100$ additional for shipping to Lithuania, while this one shipped with his ebay listing (30$ shipping) and also accepted my offer of 290$ for the xstar.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> Glad to be back to non-dictatorship OC.net like last year.
> Mine is comming to Lithuania via DHL from 'storewithstory' off ebay. Will fill the form once tested. Btw, all the rest of the sellers asked 100$ additional for shipping to Lithuania, while this one shipped with his ebay listing (30$ shipping) and also accepted my offer of 290$ for the xstar.


Please let us know how it goes..I don't think anyone here has bought from that seller..Good luck with your monitor sir..


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Finally got through with DHL, got my email and quickly paid the tax duty. It was 26,25 Euros, normally hulustar put a value on the box for 119,99 $
I hope they can put it on the delivery truck tomorrow!


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Finally got through with DHL, got my email and quickly paid the tax duty. It was 26,25 Euros, normally hulustar put a value on the box for 119,99 $
> I hope they can put it on the delivery truck tomorrow!


Best of luck! pics please


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yeren*
> 
> Hi all, i have the X-Star glossy, i have a very strange issue though and was wondering if anyone else has come across this, to me it seems to defy the laws of electronics.
> 
> It only works with the cable it came with, i have now bought an addition 4 cables, plus i already had 3, all DVI-D dual link, the last two the highest quality i could find. How can this be?
> The cable it came with is too short for where my MacPro is located, so im in a pickle. I cant see how it could be wired differently as then it shouldn't get the signal from my GTX285 card in the first place.
> 
> Any help would be deeply appreciated. Its the only thing stopping me from buying a second one, since i cant even use the first properly


Seems odd to have this issue with so many different ones but do the third party cables screw all the way in? I can't get any cable to work that will not attach totally secure on both top and bottom (including the stock one). At first I ran the stock cable just screwed in on top but one day that stopped working and I finally figured out after much troubleshooting and freaking out that it needed to be *completely* tight or I could not get a valid signal from PC.


----------



## Faded

Still waiting on mine to ship, i got a message saying there was tracking info but when i click on the link, its pretty much a blank "progress" bar that shows what the shipping statuses will be, when it actually goes out.

however, it says my delivery date is between the 3rd and 6th so i'm just hanging out until then... SUPER EXCITED!!!

i've started prepping my rig to plop my second 7970 in... it will be running on air because i don't want to spring for a waterblock until i see how this little endeavor goes.

EDIT - NVM! It now shows the departure scans for UPS, those weren't there this morning.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Seems odd to have this issue with so many different ones but do the third party cables screw all the way in? I can't get any cable to work that will not attach totally secure on both top and bottom (including the stock one). At first I ran the stock cable just screwed in on top but one day that stopped working and I finally figured out after much troubleshooting and freaking out that it needed to be *completely* tight or I could not get a valid signal from PC.


I have the same problem.. I tried for 30min yesterday trying to screw both screws in and all I could get was the top one.. I tried different screwdrivers and everything. But before I couldn't even get 1 in so at least the top one is in now..


----------



## helraza

My X-Star just arrived today. Looks like I got away with 0 dead pixels, but I do have some back light issues on the bottom middle. It's not horrible but definitely noticeable. I saw the guide about re mounting the panel and using electrical tape but I was not 100% sure what the method entailed. I can take the back off with out issue I'm sure, but I am not 100% sure where to check the mounting and where to add the electrical tape....or if this method is even advisable. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Now I have to start looking for a new video card!


----------



## Beatwolf

ok so far it seems I´m stable at 120hz with the new cable. But the picture is somewhat darker, in a weird annoying way. Is there some way to alleviate this? Just turning monitor brightness up doesn´t really seem to do the trick.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I got my QNIX monitor without a single ding on the box from DHL..When i got my monoprice monitor which was shipped only 20 miles to my house there were giant holes in the box..But that was from a off the wall no name shipper lol..He brought it in his 86 accord haha..But when i get something from newegg with fedex or amazon with ups shipping my boxes get tore up..


That shipping service that monoprice uses, i think its called norco, is sooOoooOoo sketchy. I've had some guy show up at my house in regular non-professional clothes in his beat-to-hell old car. No signing or ID verification or anything, just gave me the package than drove off. Come to think of it, it might have been the same guy that you mention. They still charged a decent amount for shipping, so they must be making a killing.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helraza*
> 
> My X-Star just arrived today. Looks like I got away with 0 dead pixels, but I do have some back light issues on the bottom middle. It's not horrible but definitely noticeable. I saw the guide about re mounting the panel and using electrical tape but I was not 100% sure what the method entailed. I can take the back off with out issue I'm sure, but I am not 100% sure where to check the mounting and where to add the electrical tape....or if this method is even advisable. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Now I have to start looking for a new video card!


Have to tried loosening the two bottom middle screws?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> That shipping service that monoprice uses, i think its called norco, is sooOoooOoo sketchy. I've had some guy show up at my house in regular non-professional clothes in his beat-to-hell old car. No signing or ID verification or anything, just gave me the package than drove off. Come to think of it, it might have been the same guy that you mention. They still charged a decent amount for shipping, so they must be making a killing.


It's called Norco overnight.. And yes the guy I had was wearing street clothes in his beat up 86 Honda lol..


----------



## helraza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Have to tried loosening the two bottom middle screws?


No I have not tried this yet. I just got home plugged the unit in, checked for defects, and headed back to the office.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helraza*
> 
> No I have not tried this yet. I just got home plugged the unit in, checked for defects, and headed back to the office.


Give that a shot.. It worked for mine as I had a Lil blb on the bottom left next to the Qnix emblem..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes bottom middle spots can definitely be affected (usually lessened) by screw removal. Still requires some tape tweaking and such inside to really get rid of it though in most cases. IIRC OneGun barely had any to begin with (lucky too as he can't open his without help...).


----------



## helraza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes bottom middle spots can definitely be affected (usually lessened) by screw removal. Still requires some tape tweaking and such inside to really get rid of it though in most cases. IIRC OneGun barely had any to begin with (lucky too as he can't open his without help...).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Give that a shot.. It worked for mine as I had a Lil blb on the bottom left next to the Qnix emblem..


Thanks guys I will give the screws a try when I get home. I most likely will want to do the tape method at some point. Where do I tape? Are there any pictures that might help point this out?


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helraza*
> 
> Thanks guys I will give the screws a try when I get home. I most likely will want to do the tape method at some point. Where do I tape? Are there any pictures that might help point this out?


OP


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes bottom middle spots can definitely be affected (usually lessened) by screw removal. Still requires some tape tweaking and such inside to really get rid of it though in most cases. IIRC OneGun barely had any to begin with (lucky too as he can't open his without help...).


I am very lucky with the monitor I got considering my disability.. Now if I could only get the dvi screws in lol.. I am gonna order another cable from monoprice right now.


----------



## sleepness

My Qnix just came in yesterday, and it's pretty good shape, some moderate BLB on the upper right hand corner that I'm too scared to try to take the monitor apart to fix. The bigger issue I'm having is when trying to overclock it. I have a GTX 780, and whenever I apply the nvidia patch listed in the first post of the thread, my computer seems to just stop recognizing my graphics card, as upon reboot my system forces my resolution to 1920x1200 with no option to go higher, and also gives me a "no nvidia card installed" error when I try to open the nvidia settings. Has anyone encountered this?


----------



## loki23

What is the purpose of this Nvidia patch I keep reading about? When I OC'd my monitor all I did was go into the nvidia control panel and set a custom resolution. It tests it real quick and you're good to go.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sleepness*
> 
> My Qnix just came in yesterday, and it's pretty good shape, some moderate BLB on the upper right hand corner that I'm too scared to try to take the monitor apart to fix. The bigger issue I'm having is when trying to overclock it. I have a GTX 780, and whenever I apply the nvidia patch listed in the first post of the thread, my computer seems to just stop recognizing my graphics card, as upon reboot my system forces my resolution to 1920x1200 with no option to go higher, and also gives me a "no nvidia card installed" error when I try to open the nvidia settings. Has anyone encountered this?


I didn't use any patches...I just tried NVCP and it worked right off the bat, I also gave Evgas pixel clock thing a go and it works too.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helraza*
> 
> Thanks guys I will give the screws a try when I get home. I most likely will want to do the tape method at some point. Where do I tape? Are there any pictures that might help point this out?


The tape method will only work for certain types of BLB. For instance there is a leak between the metal frame and the actual light. Other types of bleed are caused by improper/faulty layering of the panel itself and will not be cured by the tape method.


----------



## helraza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> The tape method will only work for certain types of BLB. For instance there is a leak between the metal frame and the actual light. Other types of bleed are caused by improper/faulty layering of the panel itself and will not be cured by the tape method.


I hope this is not the case!


----------



## Beatwolf

people seriously need to relax with the backlight bleed thing. IMO it has to be really bad before you notice it while actually using the pc. Who cares if you can see it when you turn all room lighting off and have a totally dark image on the screen. IMO it´s just OCD-stuff and it will just drive you mad focusing on it and checking to much for it.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> ok so far it seems I´m stable at 120hz with the new cable. But the picture is somewhat darker, in a weird annoying way. Is there some way to alleviate this? Just turning monitor brightness up doesn´t really seem to do the trick.


anyone?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> anyone?


I haven't found a way yet.. You can try some of the 120hz custom profiles on the first page. But for me I just use it for gaming ad I am at 60hz the rest of the time for better colors..It's funny how ur post before this one you told people to ease off the BLB whining then you post how you monitor that's not suppose to do 120hz gets dark when it does it..


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I haven't found a way yet.. You can try some of the 120hz custom profiles on the first page. But for me I just use it for gaming ad I am at 60hz the rest of the time for better colors..It's funny how ur post before this one you told people to ease off the BLB whining then you post how you monitor that's not suppose to do 120hz gets dark when it does it..


It´s not really the same though is it? The overall picture change when going to 120hz is pretty dramatic compared to some BLB. People can whine all they want, just voicing my opinion. But yeah I might try some of the custom ones, but for me so far the "asus_pb278q" one seems to be best.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> It´s not really the same though is it? The overall picture change when going to 120hz is pretty dramatic compared to some BLB. People can whine all they want, just voicing my opinion. But yeah I might try some of the custom ones, but for me so far the "asus_pb278q" one seems to be best.


I use the Menacing tuba 96hz one.. But yes the color difference is dramatic.. I don't know how people run 120hz all the time.. If I wanted a dull monitor I would have stayed with a TN panel.. But for games I don't notice it as much as most are darker games anyways..


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> anyone?


You need to raise the gamma in the windows calibration tool. I'm at around a 1/4 from the top. Gamma makes the monitor real dark at high oc's.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well the pixel clock patcher is still recommended for NV users but apparently may not be necessary. Though I would confirm in something you can run at 96 or 120 FPS (like CS:Source graphics stress test) that it does cap fps at your refresh rate w/ vsync enabled (and not at 60). Just because it says in the control panel that it's running at that refresh and/or is in 2D does not mean that 3D games are as well. I am pretty sure that you do need something else like the Catleap 2B INF or use Nvidia Inspector per-game to enable the higher Hz in games if you just use the NVCP and not CRU to set the refresh rate.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well the pixel clock patcher is still recommended for NV users but apparently may not be necessary. Though I would confirm in something you can run at 96 or 120 FPS (like CS:Source graphics stress test) that it does cap fps at your refresh rate w/ vsync enabled (and not at 60). Just because it says in the control panel that it's running at that refresh and/or is in 2D does not mean that 3D games are as well. I am pretty sure that you do need something else like the Catleap 2B INF or use Nvidia Inspector per-game to enable the higher Hz in games if you just use the NVCP and not CRU to set the refresh rate.


You could also use something like powerstrip to actually calculate the refreshed lines to make sure of what your refresh rate is getting. Vsync settings can be off limiting or sometimes conflicting with games something that has been discussed and seen earlier in the forum.


----------



## OneGun

Well guys my computer is done for now..At least until i get paid again..It took me awhile as building with 1 arm is a challenge..I think she turned out good...










My monitor and keyboard..My left handed Death Adder and my CM storm quickfire TK..And my joystick which i use to play FPS due to my disability its the only way i can play..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> You could also use something like powerstrip to actually calculate the refreshed lines to make sure of what your refresh rate is getting. Vsync settings can be off limiting or sometimes conflicting with games something that has been discussed and seen earlier in the forum.


Yeah I forgot about that cause it was only mentioned here for the first time(s) recently and I don't think I'd heard that app mentioned before for anything in well over ten years. Anyway yes not every game will respond correctly. That's the other reason I suggest CS:S--I know it does. Also almost everyone has it and it's also quick as can use the test from main menu (well once you have it installed).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Well guys my computer is done for now..At least until i get paid again..It took me awhile as building with 1 arm is a challenge..I think she turned out good...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Most definitely!


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Well guys my computer is done for now..At least until i get paid again..It took me awhile as building with 1 arm is a challenge..I think she turned out good...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My monitor and keyboard..My left handed Death Adder and my CM storm quickfire TK..And my joystick which i use to play FPS due to my disability its the only way i can play..


Very nice and clean. Love the sleaving job


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I use the Menacing tuba 96hz one.. But yes the color difference is dramatic.. I don't know how people run 120hz all the time.. If I wanted a dull monitor I would have stayed with a TN panel.. But for games I don't notice it as much as most are darker games anyways..


I agree, i can´t run 120hz permanently. It does seem as if it slightly skews the colours a bit too. I will try out some different ones. Is there a tool to map refresh rates to different programs/exes and so on?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> You need to raise the gamma in the windows calibration tool. I'm at around a 1/4 from the top. Gamma makes the monitor real dark at high oc's.


thx I will try that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Well guys my computer is done for now..At least until i get paid again..It took me awhile as building with 1 arm is a challenge..I think she turned out good...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My monitor and keyboard..My left handed Death Adder and my CM storm quickfire TK..And my joystick which i use to play FPS due to my disability its the only way i can play..


Nice job.and btw nice PSU







What is your disability exactly? Anyway it´s cool that you can still enjoy playing games







I finally got my new gfx so I could start using this monitor again, I only had it for like three days before i had to RMA my gfx.. the monitor is amazing, games look absolutely awesome!


----------



## helraza

Okay so i was able to get the panel out of the case however the metal frame around it was an issue. I felt like I was going to have to put too much pressure to pop it out. I can see what the problem is the frame is a little bowed out where the backlight bleed is. Can anyone please give some tips on removing the metal frame around the panel?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helraza*
> 
> Okay so i was able to get the panel out of the case however the metal frame around it was an issue. I felt like I was going to have to put too much pressure to pop it out. I can see what the problem is the frame is a little bowed out where the backlight bleed is. Can anyone please give some tips on removing the metal frame around the panel?


Not sure what step you're on. Take a picture.

Once you open the black enclosure, there is a metal frame that is held by little notches around the entire screen. You can just use a pick to lift it above the notch. There is another metal enclosure after that but I don't think that is removable.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I agree, i can´t run 120hz permanently. It does seem as if it slightly skews the colours a bit too. I will try out some different ones. Is there a tool to map refresh rates to different programs/exes and so on?
> thx I will try that.
> Nice job.and btw nice PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your disability exactly? Anyway it´s cool that you can still enjoy playing games
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got my new gfx so I could start using this monitor again, I only had it for like three days before i had to RMA my gfx.. the monitor is amazing, games look absolutely awesome!


I lost use of my right arm in 2002 when i hit a semi truck at 150mph on my Yamaha R1..And my favorite game is BF3..It took me awhile to get good at BF3 but now knowing i am better then alot of 2 armed people makes it alright...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I lost use of my right arm in 2002 when i hit a semi truck at 150mph on my Yamaha R1..And my favorite game is BF3..It took me awhile to get good at BF3 but now knowing i am better then alot of 2 armed people makes it alright...


Sucks you lost your arm but you making a stand and overcoming it to a point you are better than a lot of people who have two is a freaking awesome WIN man


----------



## dtran01

So I know you need a DVI "Dual Link" cable, but does it really matter that it's DVI-D and not DVI-I? Everything I read on the net seems to suggest that DVI-I is compatible with DVI-D (but not the other way around). If you look at the pin holes, it makes sense since DVI-I Dual Link has more holes than DVI-D Dual Link.

The ebay listing for the QNIX 2710 specifically says DVI-I Dual Link not supported:
http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/flashwiz/VGA.jpg

Thoughts? I have a GTX 260 that has two DVI-I Dual Link outputs, and I'm really hoping they're good enough.


----------



## Wolf404

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtran01*
> 
> So I know you need a DVI "Dual Link" cable, but does it really matter that it's DVI-D and not DVI-I? Everything I read on the net seems to suggest that DVI-I is compatible with DVI-D (but not the other way around). If you look at the pin holes, it makes sense since DVI-I Dual Link has more holes than DVI-D Dual Link.
> 
> The ebay listing for the QNIX 2710 specifically says DVI-I Dual Link not supported:
> http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/flashwiz/VGA.jpg
> 
> Thoughts? I have a GTX 260 that has two DVI-I Dual Link outputs, and I'm really hoping they're good enough.


I know others on here use them with DVI-I video cards and I just got my monitor today and it works fine with a dual link DVI-I input on the video card.


----------



## helraza

Alright, got the frame off. Taped it up and re-seated the panel. There are 2 very minor spots left that are only noticeable with completely black screen and the lights in the room off. I can live with that. Thanks for the help everyone.

The next thing to do will be to try and OC this thing. I am going to wait until I get my new video card before trying.

I am trying to decide between a EVGA Superclock ACX 780 and the same 770 and maybe the 4gb version. Too bad they are not available yet.


----------



## Bors Mistral

Just got a QNIX last week, though I haven't had time to play with it much. Quite happy with it, does 96Hz with ease, haven't tried higher. The only thing that annoys me is that the screen is noticeably yellower in the top half.

So:
- Anyone volunteering to write a more detailed guide to the tape-bleed fix?
- Any luck with reducing the yellow gradient that some of the screens suffer from?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I lost use of my right arm in 2002 when i hit a semi truck at 150mph on my Yamaha R1..And my favorite game is BF3..It took me awhile to get good at BF3 but now knowing i am better then alot of 2 armed people makes it alright...


Awesome rig you have there, everything looks tight and detailed. And that is awesome how you can still enjoy gaming after your accident


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtran01*
> 
> So I know you need a DVI "Dual Link" cable, but does it really matter that it's DVI-D and not DVI-I? Everything I read on the net seems to suggest that DVI-I is compatible with DVI-D (but not the other way around). If you look at the pin holes, it makes sense since DVI-I Dual Link has more holes than DVI-D Dual Link.
> 
> The ebay listing for the QNIX 2710 specifically says DVI-I Dual Link not supported:
> http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/flashwiz/VGA.jpg
> 
> Thoughts? I have a GTX 260 that has two DVI-I Dual Link outputs, and I'm really hoping they're good enough.


It says that, but it works. I've done it on my older card.

dvi-d dual link cable. will work in a dvi-i dual link slot though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I agree, i can´t run 120hz permanently. It does seem as if it slightly skews the colours a bit too. I will try out some different ones. Is there a tool to map refresh rates to different programs/exes and so on?
> thx I will try that.
> Nice job.and btw nice PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your disability exactly? Anyway it´s cool that you can still enjoy playing games
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got my new gfx so I could start using this monitor again, I only had it for like three days before i had to RMA my gfx.. the monitor is amazing, games look absolutely awesome!


what card did you get/have?


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Wooehoeee

Wednesday, June 05, 2013
With delivery courier BRUSSELS - BELGIUM 08:43


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helraza*
> 
> Thanks guys I will give the screws a try when I get home. I most likely will want to do the tape method at some point. Where do I tape? Are there any pictures that might help point this out?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> OP


Probably it's because I haven't received my monitor yet, but I have to agree that the pictures in the OP are not very clear on what to do exactly.
But like I said, it's probably me.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Wooehoeee
> 
> Wednesday, June 05, 2013
> With delivery courier BRUSSELS - BELGIUM 08:43


----------



## HHawk

Mine (QNIX) is coming Friday with UPS...
...however I will be in France a few days as in a short vacation.

Can someone do me a favour. I couldn't find the information anywhere.
What is the thickness of the screen (without stand).

My Hazro is about 8 cm thick (measured from the thickest part).

If someone has some time and could measure that I would be grateful. However if it's to much work or anything, than nevermind. It's not a big problem.

Today my i1|Display Pro arrived from x-rite. Also the cables from thatcable.com arrived already. Seems I am all set when I get back from my vacation.


----------



## monkeys

5.5cm thick.
My Qnix is here! build quality iffy but display is good, about on parr with my laptop but has better viewing angles.
Need to check it over though.


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> 5.5cm thick.
> My Qnix is here! build quality iffy but display is good, about on parr with my laptop but has better viewing angles.
> Need to check it over though.


What the ...?
5.5 cm? Wow...That's even better than the Hazro I have (for which I paid top Dollar / Euro).

Thanks for the measurement!


----------



## dsands75

My QNIX arrived yesterday. The build quality was meh, but it arrived without any dead pixels so I'm a happy camper. Back-light bleed from below is pretty bad on a black screen but not noticeable while gaming which is all I care about. It over-clocked to 120Hz (EVGA Precision X) right out of the box with no issues. It looked prettty dark at first but I applied dascth's 1.8 gamma icm profile (thanks!) and things look good now.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah not news that the build quality sucks (and is the cause of the bleed and panel play). Some guy said he has a Crossover (iirc) with the same bezel that *was* assembled properly and thus exhibits none of these issues.


----------



## agent4678

I finally convinced myself to pull the trigger on a Matte Qnix QX2710 and so far I am impressed. Mine arrived with no dead/stuck/lit pixels and no back-light bleeding. The display overclocked to 96Hz without any problems, but it would start to draw horizontal lines if I pushed it to 120Hz. There is one part of the bezel, dead center on the bottom of the monitor, where it is a bit uneven but I can live with it. I ordered the monitor on ebay from hulustar on 5/28 and it arrived at my place in Southern California on 6/4. My only concern now is that I ordered the square trade warranty along with the monitor and have not received the "Official Care Plan" that they said should be coming. Thanks to everybody on this thread for the information.


----------



## monkeys

Yep build quality leaves a lot to be desired as most would need dismantling and fixed and reassembling. Hilarious considering. I just hope it's reliable...no dead pixel but I bought a pixel perfect matt screen, some glow but maybe could be sorted as it is tight against the bezel.

Is there an instruction set here somewhere that teaches you how to fix that?
The bottom mid bezel is the highest as it is a bit 'bowed'


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> anyone?


From Hypermatrix at 120Hz.net, it somewhat worked for me.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Using Nvidia Control Panel to adjust desktop color settings, you can try setting +50% brightness, +65% contrast, and +1.5 gamma, which seems to do a good job of counteracting the extra darkness from 120Hz. These settings, however, won't carry over into fullscreen games.


----------



## helraza

For those of you who were asking questions about how to tape up the device. I don't have access to a camera right now but here's my best shot at explaining. I have the X-star but I think it's the same as the QNIX.

** First make sure to be very careful doing these steps. I did not damage my screen but you could do so easily following these steps if you're not careful. Do this at your own risk.**

1) Remove the 4 screws from the outside of the monitor. They are all along the bottom.

2) Pop the plastic shell apart. You might want to use something to pry it apart. You will need to use a good amount of force to get it apart.

3) Once it's apart you will want to unplug the three different wire plugs. They should come off fairly easily.

4) Once the wires are disconnected the panel is free to come out of the shell.

5) Take the panel out of the shell and remove the 3 screws that mount the PCB to the back of the panel. It will be a raised area on the top back of the panel.

6) Once it's removed be careful because the PCB will be free swinging off of it's connectors.

7) Now we're ready to remove the mounting brackets on each side of the monitor. There are two screws on each side. Take note of the position. It is possible to remount these backwards and your panel will not fit properly in the shell.

8) Once the brackets are off you can take the frame off the panel. This was a bit tricky because I was concerned about the force I was having to use. Start by using a pick or screw driver to pop it loose at each fitting that lines the outside of the metal frame.

9) Once each one of these is loose you can start to pull the panel out of the frame.

10) Now that the panel is out make sure it's seated properly. Mine was a bit off center.

11) There is a small amount of glass around the edge of the screen. I'm taking like 1/16th of a inch or less. This is where you will apply the electrical tape around the edge.

12) Before I applied the electrical tape to the edge of the panel I also applied it to the inside of the metal frame we removed. The nice thing about doing this is that when I trimmed the electrical tape off the inside edge of the frame it gave me nearly the perfect size of trimmed tape to use on the panel it's self. I don't know if this actually helped with the back light issue, but it sure made it easy to trip the electrical tape.

13) I also made sure that the frame was straight. In my case it was not and some bending made it less bowed. The bowed part is where most of the light was coming in. I set it on a flat surface and used a roller. I also physically bent it back into a better shape. I am sure with the right tools you could do a much better job.

14) Now that I had the trimmed electrical tape from the frame I used it to seal the small glass edge of the actual panel to the plastic part. You basically want to seal the light in however you can with out getting electrical tape on any view-able part of the panel.

15) Once you have the tape lining the inside you can connect everything back together. Please take special note on how the frame goes back on. There is a top and bottom of the frame. If you put it back on the wrong way the tabs used to fasten the frame to the panel can damage the pcb connectors. Just make sure the connecting tabs line up.

16) Connect everything back together and you will hopefully have a much better looking monitor.

Okay there you have it. Please feel free to improve the terminology or suggest steps that worked better for you. This was just my first attempt and I'm sure things could be done better.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> It says that, but it works. I've done it on my older card.
> 
> dvi-d dual link cable. will work in a dvi-i dual link slot though
> what card did you get/have?


GTX 780, I was lucky to get a full refund for my GTX780 so it wasnt that much more to get a 780.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

So I'm looking at my Qnix 2710 glossy. I love it! At first look I might have one dead/stuck pixel in the left corner (no worries). BLB seems minor. I'm happy!! Haven't tried overclocking it maybe tomorrow. Now I'm gonna look for a wallmount.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> So I'm looking at my Qnix 2710 glossy. I love it! At first look I might have one dead/stuck pixel in the left corner (no worries). BLB seems minor. I'm happy!! Haven't tried overclocking it maybe tomorrow. Now I'm gonna look for a wallmount.


Glad everything worked out bud.


----------



## brightbus

I have to say, this is the biggest video card I've ever laid my eyes on. Makes my 7870's look tiny by comparison


----------



## wntrsnowg

what is that? 7970? That is HUGE


----------



## OneGun

It's a 7990


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what is that? 7970? That is HUGE


That's what she said huehuehue. jk. Yeah it's a 7990


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> That's what she said huehuehue. jk. Yeah it's a 7990


Maybe the one holding it just has really tiny hands like that burger King commercial..


----------



## monkeys

Onegun, sorry to hear of the terrible accident. However glad to hear you have come out full of optimism and vigour. Good on you.









Helraza, thanks for the writeup, done it but without tape; did'nt want to put any extra pressure on the 'glass' panel. It almost looked better with the metal frame but I put the bezel back eventually







..
Good display quality but pity made to quality control standard of Homer Simpson. Hope it gives years of service.....

I am setting it at 60 hz but for some reason it keeps reverting back to 59hz, no matter, still looks good..as long as it does not give eye fatigue.

Wow brightbus, thats a monster, does it fly?


----------



## monkeys

Just checked, room is not v dark but I have to say that now I have now got an almost perfect screen.


----------



## Moragg

Just ordered an X-Star Matte








Now begins the wait...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluffysheap*
> 
> I'm looking into making a Lightboost-style backlight mod for this monitor, but I'd like to request some help with research to see what results people are getting with overclocks. Essentially, for this to work, it's important that the panel be able to handle a very long blanking interval, and to do it without getting super dim. This mod would yield something in the 85-96Hz range but with 120Hz pixel clock. The extra clock would be used for a large blanking interval, during which the backlight would illuminate. This would make motion much less blurry, although it still wouldn't be as good as the TN Lightboost monitors, due to the panel simply being slower. There would be a three-way tradeoff between flicker, blur, and refresh rate.
> 
> Here's what I would like, if possible:
> 1) Fire up Toasty CRU or whatever you use for custom timings.
> 2) Set to 90Hz. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the total vertical rows. Depending on your tool, this is either the "back porch," "blanking interval," or the "total lines" or "total rows."
> 3) Increase the vertical rows or back porch by 75-100 at a time. If you're setting total lines, increase up until about 1900-1950 total lines. If you're setting the blanking interval or back porch, you want about 500. Either of these are roughly the same pixel clock as normal blanking @120Hz.
> 4) Report if the monitor freaks out, if you get the same brightness/color shift that normally happens in the 120Hz range or if the color quality stayed good, how high of a vertical row setting you reached, what your top normal overclock is, and whether you have a QNIX or X-Star monitor.
> 5) If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.


Has anyone had any success with this?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Just ordered an X-Star Matte
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now begins the wait...
> Has anyone had any success with this?


it did not help me at all..


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> it did not help me at all..


Shame - though I'm not even sure if it's worth overclocking my monitor. I don't game (on PC), mostly surf the web and watch anime...

Reckon I'd notice much difference between 60Hz and even 96Hz for that use? I am upgrading from a cheap 1080p TN 60Hz monitor, so I'm expecting this to blow me away even if I don't overclock it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

I wouldn't oc in your case. It will only throw off the monitors gamma and uniformity, aka it will make it look worse. Possibly one of the 96Hz ICC (color calibration) profiles can help with that


----------



## OneGun

No reason to oc as it looks the best at 60hz..unless you fame then use 120..


----------



## Moragg

120Hz would be pretty pointless for me gaming anyway - my HD7770 aint gonna run even half that :/

How far can a calibration profile correct the problems caused by OCing? I saw another thread where someone's thinking of sending theirs around (if you pay P&P) and thought I could just use that and leave it running at 120Hz - which would be great for watching 24fps video.

Or I could just OC to 72Hz - not enough to affect picture quality much, but enough to make videos much more smooth.

Honestly though, the thing I'm looking forward to most is no reflections - and using my computer with the curtains open xD and then the extra real estate, pixel density, PLS colours...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> 120Hz would be pretty pointless for me gaming anyway - my HD7770 aint gonna run even half that :/
> 
> How far can a calibration profile correct the problems caused by OCing? I saw another thread where someone's thinking of sending theirs around (if you pay P&P) and thought I could just use that and leave it running at 120Hz - which would be great for watching 24fps video.
> 
> Or I could just OC to 72Hz - not enough to affect picture quality much, but enough to make videos much more smooth.
> 
> Honestly though, the thing I'm looking forward to most is no reflections - and using my computer with the curtains open xD and then the extra real estate, pixel density, PLS colours...


It can help with the gamma and brightness issues, but it will do nothing for the uniformity changes that can occur.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Maybe the one holding it just has really tiny hands like that burger King commercial..


Haha. Well now I can push everything at high fps at 1440.I played a little Bioshock earlier, varied between 120-200 fps which was awesome.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Haha. Well now I can push everything at high fps at 1440.I played a little Bioshock earlier, varied between 120-200 fps which was awesome.


how's the frame latency? Are u using RadeonPro?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> how's the frame latency? Are u using RadeonPro?


I am using Radeon pro. Still playing around with settings in that thing, programs pretty new to me.

latency was about 8.3 according to radeon pro. Having vsync on would lock frames to 120 fps.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I am using Radeon pro. Still playing around with settings in that thing, programs pretty new to me.
> 
> latency was about 8.3 according to radeon pro. Having vsync on would lock frames to 120 fps.


Set RadeonPro dynamic framerate control to 120hz also..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Set RadeonPro dynamic framerate control to 120hz also..


Thanks


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I am using Radeon pro. Still playing around with settings in that thing, programs pretty new to me.
> 
> latency was about 8.3 according to radeon pro. Having vsync on would lock frames to 120 fps.


How do you tell the latency through RadeonPro?


----------



## lee63

Anyone else getting one side slightly darker (about 5 inches) when OCed ?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Anyone else getting one side slightly darker (about 5 inches) when OCed ?


No sir mine just gets dark pretty equally...


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> No sir mine just gets dark pretty equally...


Hmmm...wonder how I can fix this.


----------



## dzap

Thursday, June 06, 2013 Location Time
Customs status updated VILNIUS - LITHUANIA 07:52

wow, that was 40hours from Korea to Lithuania. But of course, now the customs will hold it for like a week, ffs.


----------



## KaiserFrederick

My glossy QNIX arrived today! Three days from Korea to Melbourne, package was wrapped in a layer of foam with no damage. Typing this post on it now, not noticing any back light bleeding or dead/stuck pixels, might do a thorough check at a later date. Probably not going to overclock, I'm just running a single GTX 670, so with eye candy maxed at this resolution I think I'll only be able to push 60 FPS anyway. My seller was zoneforbuyer, going to go give some positive feedback on eBay now.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaiserFrederick*
> 
> My glossy QNIX arrived today! Three days from Korea to Melbourne, package was wrapped in a layer of foam with no damage. Typing this post on it now, not noticing any back light bleeding or dead/stuck pixels, might do a thorough check at a later date. Probably not going to overclock, I'm just running a single GTX 670, so with eye candy maxed at this resolution I think I'll only be able to push 60 FPS anyway. My seller was zoneforbuyer, going to go give some positive feedback on eBay now.












Here is a dead pixel test..

http://deadpixeltest.net/


----------



## KaiserFrederick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a dead pixel test..
> 
> http://deadpixeltest.net/


Ok, upon close inspection there appears to be 1 stuck pixel (it is red) in the middle of the upper left quadrant of the screen, but it seems only to be visible on a white background. BLB is pretty much non existant, i think my previous LG IPS was worse. All in all, I am extremely pleased with my purchase.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaiserFrederick*
> 
> Ok, upon close inspection there appears to be 1 stuck pixel (it is red) in the middle of the upper left quadrant of the screen, but it seems only to be visible on a white background. BLB is pretty much non existant, i think my previous LG IPS was worse. All in all, I am extremely pleased with my purchase.


Sweet..Glad everything worked out for you..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaiserFrederick*
> 
> My glossy QNIX arrived today! Three days from Korea to Melbourne, package was wrapped in a layer of foam with no damage. Typing this post on it now, not noticing any back light bleeding or dead/stuck pixels, might do a thorough check at a later date. Probably not going to overclock, I'm just running a single GTX 670, so with eye candy maxed at this resolution I think I'll only be able to push 60 FPS anyway. My seller was zoneforbuyer, going to go give some positive feedback on eBay now.


Try out a color calibration profile now. Go to the OP and look for the expandable "Color Calibration Profiles and how to install them" section and look for the Asus PB278Q profile at the link provided to TFT Central (near the top of that expandable section). Instructions are also in that expandable section at the very top on how to 'install' the icc profile and make it active.
Let me know how that profile is, because it has been good to many


----------



## wntrsnowg

*I am instituting a new policy on member signup. Details will be in the OP as well.*

*In addition* to *signing up using the members list form*, please also *post a picture of your monitor in the thread* with your OCN username written somewhere visible in the picture (on a sticky note on your desktop, on a piece of paper on your desk, etc.). I will verify all new member sign-ups with a picture posted in this thread. No picture, no members list entry.

I hope this will increase the legitimacy of the members list, and cut out false entries. Thank you!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> *I am instituting a new policy on member signup. Details will be in the OP as well.*
> 
> *In addition* to *signing up using the members list form*, please also *post a picture of your monitor in the thread* with your OCN username written somewhere visible in the picture (on a sticky note on your desktop, on a piece of paper on your desk, etc.). I will verify all new member sign-ups with a picture posted in this thread. No picture, no members list entry.
> 
> I hope this will increase the legitimacy of the members list, and cut out false entries. Thank you!


Does this mean we all have to post our pics again?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Nooo that would be asking too much. Just a from-here-on-out kinda thing. I know its annoying to take a picture with your phone and connect the phone to the comp and upload, but I get the feeling that the members list can be easily stacked with false info.

Plus, onegun, I know you're legitimate. You post often


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Nooo that would be asking too much. Just a from-here-on-out kinda thing. I know its annoying to take a picture with your phone and connect the phone to the comp and upload, but I get the feeling that the members list can be easily stacked with false info.
> 
> Plus, onegun, I know you're legitimate. You post often


Cool thank you sir...


----------



## KaiserFrederick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Try out a color calibration profile now. Go to the OP and look for the expandable "Color Calibration Profiles and how to install them" section and look for the Asus PB278Q profile at the link provided to TFT Central (near the top of that expandable section). Instructions are also in that expandable section at the very top on how to 'install' the icc profile and make it active.
> Let me know how that profile is, because it has been good to many


Thanks for the heads up, applied the ASUS profile and it is waaay too yellow for my liking. will stick with it for an hour to see if it grows on me, otherwise will go back to default. Any suggestions for a less yellow profile?
Edit: Tried the others for the samsung and viewsonic listed in the OP, either too red or too yellow, defaulting back to stock for now


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Does this mean we all have to post our pics again?


Can I do it anyway


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> How do you tell the latency through RadeonPro?


It tells you in the osd id you turn it on.


----------



## andygully

just got my x star from hulustar ordered sun arrived today in the UK.
Don't seem to have been charged duty but maybe ill receive a letter later on.
mine has 0 dead pixels (was in hulustar's 0-2 dead pixel offer cost £208) i can see in the pixel test and has minimal back light bleed around the badge which i may or may nor try the tape fix on.
Thanks guys for the info on this and i am very happy going from a 32" 1080p TV to this


----------



## majnu

got my monoprice cables today and they are massive, unfortunately I can't hit 120hz without getting green lines and some faint flickering this time. Before they were red with the stock cable lol


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> got my monoprice cables today and they are massive, unfortunately I can't hit 120hz without getting green lines and some faint flickering this time. Before they were red with the stock cable lol


Hows 96 work?


----------



## brightbus

verification


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> got my monoprice cables today and they are massive, unfortunately I can't hit 120hz without getting green lines and some faint flickering this time. Before they were red with the stock cable lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What GPU do you have?


----------



## helraza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> 
> 
> verification


That looks amazing!


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Hows 96 work?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> What GPU do you have?


I get up to 110hz fine with stock cable. Supposedly a a better cable was needed for 120hz.

I have SLI 670's


----------



## Faded

got my x-star in yesterday and set it up just to check it out... no stuck pixels and some light BLB in the upper right, when i pulled on the bezel in that area, the bleed pretty much went away so i think its too tight on that side.

In any case, i cant even notice it unless its on a black screen... absolutely love the monitor!


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helraza*
> 
> That looks amazing!


Thanks! Middle monitor is main/gaming/movie watching. Other monitors are for looking stuff up during games/web browsing/multitasking. Their in portrait because I prefer portrait for web browsing and like the look better than 1x3.


----------



## helraza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Thanks! Middle monitor is main/gaming/movie watching. Other monitors are for looking stuff up during games/web browsing/multitasking. Their in portrait because I prefer portrait for web browsing and like the look better than 1x3.


I agreee. I want to get a setup like this at some point. What video card and monitor stand are you using for this?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Two in portrait seems like overkill to me but, hey, if you have the cash...


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helraza*
> 
> I agreee. I want to get a setup like this at some point. What video card and monitor stand are you using for this?


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JG9RQ2/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the stand I'm using. I'm currently running a 7990 which is a bit overkill unless I do eyefinity which I do from time to time, but not often. Prior I was running crossfired 7870's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Two in portrait seems like overkill to me but, hey, if you have the cash...


You underestimate the amount of tabs I have open at once







I also like to watch something on one monitor and be doing stuff on the others. Now I feel cramped when I have to use a pc with one screen haha.



What it looks like when I do eyefinity.


----------



## helraza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JG9RQ2/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> This is the stand I'm using. I'm currently running a 7990 which is a bit overkill unless I do eyefinity which I do from time to time, but not often. Prior I was running crossfired 7870's.
> You underestimate the amount of tabs I have open at once
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also like to watch something on one monitor and be doing stuff on the others. Now I feel cramped when I have to use a pc with one screen haha.
> 
> 
> 
> What it looks like when I do eyefinity.


very nice. Do you have enough room with the stand to put all 3 into landscape?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

That's cool; definitely depends on what you do w/ your machine and how you do it (and yeah there is always the Eyefinity option too when you want it). I've had access to plenty of displays over the years working IT but just never felt a huge need to hook up more than one to my "gaming" rig. I might soon though because I have a pretty nice 19" HP LCD that hardly never gets used as it's on my ESXi box (all work post-install is done remotely).


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helraza*
> 
> very nice. Do you have enough room with the stand to put all 3 into landscape?




Three will fit in landscape, though just barely. I'm not a big fan of 1x3. When taking the picture I didn't bother to adjust them to get them even, seeing as I was just going to change them right back. And I guess I got three, because after I got my first qnix...my older dell and aoc 23'' just looked so bad by comparison. I've always been a big multitasker when it comes to computers, so the portrait x landscape x portrait looks works out for me








I may eventually get another 7990 or a 7970 but thats way down the line, I'm pretty happy for now.

Also my cords and crap are all over the place, don't have them properly routed. I'm waiting on my new desk to get in (one that can properly hold this stand, its pretty freaking heavy by itself, not even counting adding the monitors in) instead of the crappy table I'm using now.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> It tells you in the osd id you turn it on.


I can't find it.. Maybe I have a outdated version? You click on the old tab and it's there?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I can't find it.. Maybe I have a outdated version? You click on the old tab and it's there?


I just know it shows up with the fps.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I just know it shows up with the fps.


Are you sure that's not after burners OSD? Cause I can't get mine to show it..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Dat resolution.... I was going to post up pics of my setup for fun, but it is petty in comparison


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Dat resolution.... I was going to post up pics of my setup for fun, but it is petty in comparison


Do it! I love to see peoples setups
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Are you sure that's not after burners OSD? Cause I can't get mine to show it..


I don't have afterburner installed.


----------



## Spartan F8

So just asking, Has anyone tried leaving their Qnix at 60hz and instead tried supersampling/downsampling?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Do it! I love to see peoples setups
> I don't have afterburner installed.


Ok thank you..I will check to see if my RP is outdated..


----------



## majnu

tried lcd reduced instead of standard and I achieved 120hz. I've not noticed any flickering, or red/green lines yet, but if it does happen in games what values do I edit and change to stop it from happening in cru?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> So just asking, Has anyone tried leaving their Qnix at 60hz and instead tried supersampling?


Not the same thing.

Hz:
Quote:


> The refresh rate (most commonly the "vertical refresh rate", "vertical scan rate" for CRTs) is the number of times in a second that a display hardware draws the data. This is distinct from the measure of frame rate in that the refresh rate includes the repeated drawing of identical frames, while frame rate measures how often a video source can feed an entire frame of new data to a display.


SSAA:
Quote:


> Samples are taken at several instances inside the pixel (not just at the center as default) and an average color value is calculated. This is achieved by rendering the image at a much higher resolution than the one being displayed, then shrinking it to the desired size, using the extra pixels for calculation. *The result is a downsampled image* with smoother transitions from one line of pixels to another along the edges of objects.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Not the same thing.
> 
> Hz:
> SSAA:


I know exactly what i was asking and stand by the question. I am generally interested if anyone has tried jacking up the resolution instead of the refresh. This being the "club" forum and not the overclocking forum specifically for this monitor it is not out of topic either. Thank you for posting a clarification of what supersampling is so everyone who doesn't know that it is not the same thing now knows and might be able to try it and get back to those of us(assuming i am not the only person interested) who are wondering.

I mainly bring it up since i am trying it right now and can't seem to get the aspect retio to stick. It keeps panning the screen "off" screen rather than downsampling the image.


----------



## jayhay

Question for you all. I have a matte qnix and my 560Ti no longer down clocks it's frequency at idle with the nvidia patch in test mode. Currently I'm sitting at 880Mhz, with no change in core frequency at idle and no OC software installed (like Afterburner). Anyone else experience this with the patched Nvidia drivers? Hope I can resolve this. I hate running my graphics at full blast when doing nothing. Btw, my monitor is oc'd to 103.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I know exactly what i was asking and stand by the question. I am generally interested if anyone has tried jacking up the resolution instead of the refresh. This being the "club" forum and not the overclocking forum specifically for this monitor it is not out of topic either. Thank you for posting a clarification of what supersampling is so everyone who doesn't know that it is not the same thing now knows and might be able to try it and get back to those of us(assuming i am not the only person interested) who are wondering.
> 
> I mainly bring it up since i am trying it right now and can't seem to get the aspect retio to stick. It keeps panning the screen "off" screen rather than downsampling the image.


Well then you should have been more specific as above. The way you said "instead" threw me off. Others have confused the end result of downsampling with that of higher refresh rate in the past. Apologies for assuming you did too but no need to get so defensive.

No I have not tried supersampling in any games yet. What is it you are trying to see if you can achieve exactly? SSAA itself is just not acting right?


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> tried lcd reduced instead of standard and I achieved 120hz. I've not noticed any flickering, or red/green lines yet, but if it does happen in games what values do I edit and change to stop it from happening in cru?


green lines whilst gaming. what values should I change in cru?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well then you should have been more specific as above. Others have confused the end result of downsampling with that of higher refresh rate in the past. Apologies for assuming you did too but no need to get so defensive.
> 
> No I have not tried supersampling in any games yet. What is it you are trying to see if you can achieve exactly?


I wasn't getting defensive i was simply explaining myself. I am seeing if i can improve quality of course. downsampling can give us better quality all around and not just in games. I always did this with my older monitors and it gives a fake sense of a higher PPI then what the monitor really is. It is obviously not as good as having actual resolution but it does very much help. With the Qnix already being 2560x1440 and being able to overclock to double its own refresh having a pixel clock of 500mhz+ i was thinking you could really supersample it. Plus i have seen myself and read over many review it is better in many was than the sort of software aliasing we normally use in games. I can say for sure it works wonders with TVs.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> Question for you all. I have a matte qnix and my 560Ti no longer down clocks it's frequency at idle with the nvidia patch in test mode. Currently I'm sitting at 880Mhz, with no change in core frequency at idle and no OC software installed (like Afterburner). Anyone else experience this with the patched Nvidia drivers? Hope I can resolve this. I hate running my graphics at full blast when doing nothing. Btw, my monitor is oc'd to 103.


It's cause all the extra bandwidth you are using to keep 100 plus frames.. Drop your monitor back to 60 and see if it goes back to idle..


----------



## obto

I finally decided to look into my back light bleed problem and it looks like the metal frame in front of the screen on the bottom left portion is bending the screen.

Has anyone here dealt with bending back the frame to fix the bleeding issues?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I wasn't getting defensive i was simply explaining myself. I am seeing if i can improve quality of course. Supersampling can give us better quality all around and not just in games. I always did this with my older monitors and it gives a fake sense of a higher PPI then what the monitor really is. It is obviously not as good as having actual resolution but it does very much help. With the Qnix already being 2560x1440 and being able to overclock to double its own refresh having a pixel clock of 500mhz+ i was thinking you could really supersample it. Plus i have seen myself and read over many review it is better in many was than the sort of software aliasing we normally use in games. I can say for sure it works wonders with TVs.


Supersampling is amazing but you really won't notice a big difference since we are at 3.6 million pixels already. Plus SS uses so much of your GPU it's not worth it.. Do you hae a Amd gpu?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Supersampling is amazing but you really won't notice a big difference since we are at 3.6 million pixels already. Plus SS uses so much of your GPU it's not worth it.. Do you hae a Amd gpu?


I am pretty sure there would be a BIG difference. I have used this many times on monitor that are 1080p at 21.5" which makes the PPI damn close to the Qnix and it made it look way better. Think about it the Qnix is only about 109PPI and my Galaxy s2 phone is more than double that. There is definitely room for improvement and improvement that will be visibly better. Quite frankly this is an awesome monitor but the pixel density is not the best by far. That is why i am doing a triple monitor side project with laptop panels that are 1080p at 11.6" which makes it 226PPI more than double the Qnix. Anyone that has seen an ultrabook or has compared smartphone screens to PC monitors will be able to speak towards this. With two GTX570s i am not worried about GPU usage and i plane on upgrading soon.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> It's cause all the extra bandwidth you are using to keep 100 plus frames.. Drop your monitor back to 60 and see if it goes back to idle..


Same at 60. I don't think the desktop at 103 is pulling so much my card wouldn't back the frequency off a tad. Without the nvidia patch, 60 will be at around 150mhz off the 560TI @ idle. I know OC'ing the monitor will make the GPU work harder, I just can't imagine it needs full clocks speeds 100% of the time.

Are others here who use nvidia cards experiencing the same thing?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am pretty sure there would be a BIG difference. I have used this many times on monitor that are 1080p at 21.5" which makes the PPI damn close to the Qnix and it made it look way better. Think about it the Qnix is only about 109PPI and my Galaxy s2 phone is more than double that. There is definitely room for improvement and improvement that will be visibly better. Quite frankly this is an awesome monitor but the pixel density is not the best by far. That is why i am doing a triple monitor side project with laptop panels that are 1080p at 11.6" which makes it 226PPI more than double the Qnix. Anyone that has seen an ultrabook or has compared smartphone screens to PC monitors will be able to speak towards this. With two GTX570s i am not worried about GPU usage and i plane on upgrading soon.


Smaller screens always have higher ppi.. My gs4 has like 426 or something but tats because the have to cram 1080p on a 5in screen.. The bigger the screen the higher the pixel pitch.. As all 1440p monitors have the same pixel pitch.. And of course Supersampling makes 1080p look better because the pixels are so big it just smooths them out.. It's not adding more ppi lol.. All it does is a super AA technique. On 1080p you need AA but on 1440p you really don't need it as there are way more pixels..Just think of it like this. MY 55IN 1080P TV has the same amount of pixels as my 5in gs4.lol so of course the phone will have to cram way more ppi to get the same amount of pixels..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am pretty sure there would be a BIG difference. I have used this many times on monitor that are 1080p at 21.5" which makes the PPI damn close to the Qnix and it made it look way better. Think about it the Qnix is only about 109PPI and my Galaxy s2 phone is more than double that. There is definitely room for improvement and improvement that will be visibly better. Quite frankly this is an awesome monitor but the pixel density is not the best by far. That is why i am doing a triple monitor side project with laptop panels that are 1080p at 11.6" which makes it 226PPI more than double the Qnix. Anyone that has seen an ultrabook or has compared smartphone screens to PC monitors will be able to speak towards this. With two GTX570s i am not worried about GPU usage and i plane on upgrading soon.


I know what youre saying abotu pixel density, my phone is pushing 1080 at 5 inches and its pretty awesome. But pushing more onto this panel with all the pixels it has already I dunno. I have a 7990, and I still doubt its abilities at lets say, double the pixels. For comparison three qnix's in eyefinity is just playble, but not amazing.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well he says a "fake sense of adding PPI" but I think there has got to be some diminishing returns here on this display which already has higher density than a 1080P, for example. Keep testing though, for sure. And SSAA is definitely (and obviously) a superior way of anti-aliasing in games if you can afford the hit.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Smaller screens always have higher ppi.. My gs4 has like 426 or something but tats because the have to cram 1080p on a 5in screen.. The bigger the screen the higher the pixel pitch.. As all 1440p monitors have the same pixel pitch.. And of course Supersampling makes 1080p look better because the pixels are so big it just smooths them out.. It's not adding more ppi lol.. All it does is a super AA technique. On 1080p you need AA but on 1440p you really don't need it as there are way more pixels..Just think of it like this. MY 55IN 1080P TV has the same amount of pixels as my 5in gs4.lol so of course the phone will have to cram way more ppi to get the same amount of pixels..


Yeah i am not sure we are on the same page yet(almost). PPI is relative to resolution and screen size. The size of the pixels are just about exactly the same on a 1080p monitor at 21.5" then it is on a 1440p monitor at 27". I have an ultrabook running a 1080p screen at 11.6" and the density and overall quality(other than 120hz) is BETTER than the Qnix. downsampling can somewhat help in this regard. I never said anything about it adding pixels in fact i very much tried to stay away from it as many people do have this delusion(why i said "fake"). The main reason certain people get confused and think it is actually creating more pixels are not completely out of their minds either because it overall looks like there is.

To kinda make this a bit more clear, take a monitor at 1080p with a screen size of 21.5" and set it right next to your Qnix and then move a window between them. You will notice that they are VERY close almost identical. Next apply downsamplinjg to the 1080p screen and compare(which i have done). The 1080p screen in terms of just pixel pitch will look better than the Qnix. As you already know anti-aliasing even at our 109PPI Qnix does make games look better(especially for those of us with very good sight) i am simply venturing into doing this for the whole PC experience which supersampling does.

And a 55" TV looks like absolute trash compared to a 5" screen at the same resolution(and period for that matter since the PPI is garbage). For this reason i could never go back to a large TV display they just look horribly blocky. I am really not sure what you are trying to say actually other than some very obvious comments you really tried to discredit my point with my point. Anyways anyone that has actually used SS will tell you it makes your monitor have a good deal better quality. You get a pretty close to the same improvement when lowering the ridiculously high DPI on cell phones(but better).

So if anyone else decides to try this let me know how it goes and ho you went about doing it since i am a bit stuck with getting it to work.


----------



## OneGun

You ask for how people feel just so you can tell us we are wrong and be disrespect to us.. I would rather not deal with you as I have already had problems with you.. Thank you and have a great day


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> You ask for how people feel just so you can tell us we are wrong and be disrespect to us.. I would rather not deal with you as I have already had problems with you.. Thank you and have a great day


Never said you were wrong and i did not impose any disrespect. If that is what you got from what i just said then i am sorry you mis-understood my post. Also the "problems" you have had was another simple mis-understanding(which has not happened with anyone else i have chatted with). if your "thank you and have a great day" post means your are done talking on the matter that is fine since you obviously do not have anything to contribute on this particular subject(also not an insult i myself have subjects that i would not be very helpful with to







). I would ask that you not post any more comments like this as it IS dis-respectful and referring to yourself as "us" is an isolating tactic.

Back to the matter at hand if anyone else has or is going to try SS or has done it in the past and can give me some advice it would be much appreciated.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Never said you were wrong and i did not impose any disrespect. If that is what you got from what i just said then i am sorry you mis-understood my post. Also the "problems" you have had was another simple mis-understanding(which has not happened with anyone else i have chatted with). if your "thank you and have a great day" post means your are done talking on the matter that is fine since you obviously do not have anything to contribute on this particular subject(also not an insult i myself have subjects that i would not be very helpful with to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I would ask that you not post any more comments like this as it IS dis-respectful and referring to yourself as "us" is an isolating tactic.
> 
> Back to the matter at hand if anyone else has or is going to try SS or has done it in the past and can give me some advice it would be much appreciated.


You have a habit of being insulting but then saying i am not trying to be insulting...By being rude and then saying i don't mean to be rude doesn't make it ok..If i walked up to a guy on the street and said...You are a stupid idiot followed by i don't mean to be insulting doesn't take back the fact that i called him a stupid idiot...I could have sworn 2 pages back another member had a MISUNDERSTANDING with you...

All i am saying is learn how to talk to people or don't talk to them at all..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> You have a habit of being insulting but then saying i am not trying to be insulting...By being rude and then saying i don't mean to be rude doesn't make it ok..If i walked up to a guy on the street and said...You are a stupid idiot followed by i don't mean to be insulting doesn't take back the fact that i called him a stupid idiot...I could have sworn 2 pages back another member had a MISUNDERSTANDING with you...
> 
> All i am saying is learn how to talk to people or don't talk to them at all..


Yes a couple of pages back someone asked for confirmation on something i said and after clarifying things worked out fine(no PMs or whining either). At this point i am just fed up. Telling me i don't know how to talk to people and insisting that i am calling you an idiot when i am merely re-explaining something i firmly believe you mis-understood. Your metaphor above is sound logic but i do not believe for a second it applies to anything i have said(other than stating you where whining which you were by any definition). And also this part " learn how to talk to people or don't talk to them at all" is clearly a form of Flaming(especially when i have repeatedly gotten compliments on helping people out here and on XDA.)

All i can say is chill out. i have no problem with you or anything you said about supersampling/Downsampling i was just making sure the whole picture was there(as it was clearly not).

For anyone actually interested in what i am talking about and might want to try it out here is a link to a awesome guide i found

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509076

EDIT: this guide is a bit better
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=346325


----------



## wrigleyvillain

What are game(s) are you trying to SS as yet and what GPU(s) do you have?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> What are game(s) are you trying to SS as yet and what GPU(s) do you have?


I have got SS to work now in all games. I am mostly trying to get downsampling to work now. SS was having issues with in-game VS Driver level. I have two GTX570s in SLI.

EDIT: it was Tomb raider(reboot) and Dead space 3 giving me problems with SS.


----------



## Spartan F8

After some tinkering i now have my 21'5" Asus downsampling to the same overall PPI of the Qnix but i can't get the Qnix to cooperate with any higher input than 1440p.

EDIT: the Asus has a slight pixel blur after downsampling from 2020x11180 but i was able to clean it up with some OSD settings.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I know what youre saying abotu pixel density, my phone is pushing 1080 at 5 inches and its pretty awesome. But pushing more onto this panel with all the pixels it has already I dunno. I have a 7990, and I still doubt its abilities at lets say, double the pixels. For comparison three qnix's in eyefinity is just playble, but not amazing.


After a bunch of testing you might be right but i am going to see what the limits are.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well he says a "fake sense of adding PPI" but I think there has got to be some diminishing returns here on this display which already has higher density than a 1080P, for example. Keep testing though, for sure. And SSAA is definitely (and obviously) a superior way of anti-aliasing in games if you can afford the hit.


The guide i posted will help explain the benefits and the possible negatives(pixel blur) and i may need to upgrade GPU to fully explore it. Once i actually get it working. I will keep you posted


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Not the same thing.
> 
> Hz:
> SSAA:


I think i know where the mixup was here. I am talking about downsampling the signal to the monitor from the GPU. Not exactly SSAA.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I see. Ill check that G3D link you posted.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> tried lcd reduced instead of standard and I achieved 120hz. I've not noticed any flickering, or red/green lines yet, but if it does happen in games what values do I edit and change to stop it from happening in cru?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> green lines whilst gaming. what values should I change in cru?












Do you think I should try another cable or if the monoprice doesn't achieve 120hz is it likely no other cable will?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think I should try another cable or if the monoprice doesn't achieve 120hz is it likely no other cable will?


No Monoprice cables can be hit or miss like any other cable. People have even found some 28 gauge cables have worked pretty well. When i tried monoprice cables i bought 3 of them and two were duds when it comes to overclocking(meaning one was really good)


----------



## DomChristo

Hey Guys,

Decided to buy an X-Star from Bigclothcraft.
accidently bought the glossy one...









Emailed them yesterday asking if it would be ok to send out a Matte one instead, Have not heard from them yet.
Has anyone had difficulties contacting these guys?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DomChristo*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Decided to buy an X-Star from Bigclothcraft.
> accidently bought the glossy one...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emailed them yesterday asking if it would be ok to send out a Matte one instead, Have not heard from them yet.
> Has anyone had difficulties contacting these guys?


I know when I was contacting hulustar it took at least 24hrs to hear back.. Sometimes 48hrs..it took my 3 days to get my question answered by greensum. I would email them again right now as it is 11am out there right now..


----------



## brightbus

Took me 48 hrs to hear back.


----------



## Alcaro

Hopefully he catches it before the monitor is enroute. Fingers crossed buddy.


----------



## DomChristo

Well, I haven't paid for it yet, maybe thats why they are ignoring me D:


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well...that definitely helps to ensure you won't _actually get_ the glossy by mistake!









Stoked to put my stand on this weekend!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DomChristo*
> 
> Well, I haven't paid for it yet, maybe thats why they are ignoring me D:


Why not cancel order and re order?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well...that definitely helps to ensure you won't _actually get_ the glossy by mistake!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stoked to put my stand on this weekend!


Did you get that gateway stand?


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Why not cancel order and re order?


I don't think it would look good if you cancel an ebay order after you press the commit to buy button. Also the feedback mumbo jumbo.


----------



## ivoryg37

I just returned my Monoprice monitor so I can get one of these Q-Nix. Should I get the matte one for 289 or the glossy for 309? I read the OP and look at the poll but I still don't know which one I would like better. I don't do any photoediting. Mostly playing games, watching movies, and looking at pictures lol. Is green sum a good seller? I usually buy from bigcraft but their price is too high


----------



## DomChristo

Can anyone measure the bottom bezel height? Specifically the height of the logo?
So tempted to get one of these to stick over the top.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> I don't think it would look good if you cancel an ebay order after you press the commit to buy button. Also the feedback mumbo jumbo.


As you can tell i only bought one thing on ebay and don't know such things lol..Good call bud..


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I just returned my Monoprice monitor so I can get one of these Q-Nix. Should I get the matte one for 289 or the glossy for 309? I read the OP and look at the poll but I still don't know which one I would like better. I don't do any photoediting. Mostly playing games, watching movies, and looking at pictures lol. Is green sum a good seller? I usually buy from bigcraft but their price is too high


I had a monoprice also that i just returned..This Qnix is way better..I only game also and the OC makes a big difference...And yes people have had good luck with GreenSum..


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quick snap with an old Xperia fone.

Oh dear, didn't turn out too well LOL









Anyways, Qnix mid, Catleap right (also a Dell portrait to the left but it's shy)...


----------



## OneGun

Which one is your favorite?And have you OCed it yet?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DomChristo*
> 
> Can anyone measure the bottom bezel height? Specifically the height of the logo?
> So tempted to get one of these to stick over the top.


The lower bezel is 1.5" the logo itself is 1.23" wide and maybe .25 tall. All other bezel areas are just about 1".


----------



## ivoryg37

Onegun did you get a glossy or matte one?


----------



## joelacer

Going to take the dive and buy one of the stands someone else linked a while back. Will post back with results/impressions/thoughts once it arrives.

Heres the link for anyone else looking for a good stand for this monitor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

PS looks like this seller has about 22 left at this price.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Onegun did you get a glossy or matte one?


My Qnix is Matte..The monoprice was glossy..


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DomChristo*
> 
> Well, I haven't paid for it yet, maybe thats why they are ignoring me D:


so why lie and say you bought it then?


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelacer*
> 
> Going to take the dive and buy one of the stands someone else linked a while back. Will post back with results/impressions/thoughts once it arrives.
> 
> Heres the link for anyone else looking for a good stand for this monitor:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> PS looks like this seller has about 22 left at this price.


thx for the link, but you have to disassemble the monitor to fit it right?


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> thx for the link, but you have to disassemble the monitor to fit it right?


You have to disassemble the monitor to take off the stand so yea.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> So just asking, Has anyone tried leaving their Qnix at 60hz and instead tried supersampling/downsampling?


Mine is running at standard 60hz, my graphics card is old and wont allow any other setting.
I only use it to view text, surfing, ...and the odd youtube video. Is it worth upgrading the graphics card or is it better at higher frequency?

For what it's worth, loving the display :thumb:lay.
I may have to retire my 2 other monitors and buy another, question is which resolution vs costs


----------



## Crzybritfox

Ordered X-star glossy on friday and it was sent tuesday, now it is out for delivery, yay!

Croydon, United Kingdom 06/07/2013 7:48 A.M. Out For Delivery

I can't wait ^_^


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> You have to disassemble the monitor to take off the stand so yea.


you can add a stand without taking the stub out. it just looks bad lol.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> you can add a stand without taking the stub out. it just looks bad lol.


Well it depends on the stand but yea... I just assumed that he didn't want that ugly thingy sticking out from the bottom of the monitor ^^


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Did you get that gateway stand?


Indeed I did. Def brand new; comes in Gateway-branded box. Picked up four screws yesterday too. Would rather not *have* to open the bezel but I do want to take a look-see re. possibly addressing some of my bleed as well.


----------



## bmancreations

This might have been asked, but there are too many pages.

I have a very minimal light bleed, that isn't a problem. My question though is, does this get worse over time?


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> This might have been asked, but there are too many pages.
> 
> I have a very minimal light bleed, that isn't a problem. My question though is, does this get worse over time?


It doesn't get worse over time.


----------



## Faded

i haven't overclocked mine yet but i am getting that stupid issue where my secondary monitor (Older samsung @ 1680x1050) is lagging when moving windows around or pretty much doing anything. I have heard this happens in windows 7 when monitors are on 2 different refresh rates, but i havent changed my new one from 60.

anyone know how to get rid of the lag on the second monitor?


----------



## ivoryg37

Man I want the glossy but the matte for 289 is too hard to pass up considering I may get 3 or switch to 4K monitor in the future. How big of a difference is the matte and glossy. I really like the mono price one which is glossy


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Man I want the glossy but the matte for 289 is too hard to pass up considering I may get 3 or switch to 4K monitor in the future. How big of a difference is the matte and glossy. I really like the mono price one which is glossy


That's only like 20 bucks difference. I have like three glossys, but they are super reflective with any kind of lighting in the room.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faded*
> 
> i haven't overclocked mine yet but i am getting that stupid issue where my secondary monitor (Older samsung @ 1680x1050) is lagging when moving windows around or pretty much doing anything. I have heard this happens in windows 7 when monitors are on 2 different refresh rates, but i havent changed my new one from 60.
> 
> anyone know how to get rid of the lag on the second monitor?


I've actually had this problem when i had 3 monitors connected at the same time. But for some reason it doesn't appear any more. Even though I'm running at different refresh rates.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Man I want the glossy but the matte for 289 is too hard to pass up considering I may get 3 or switch to 4K monitor in the future. How big of a difference is the matte and glossy. I really like the mono price one which is glossy


To be honest i'm really glad i went with the matte. Even with the matte overlay the light can still be annoying (or maybe i'm just weird







)
My laptop got a glossy and the reflections are pretty annoying, also i think the glossy screen is more susceptible to fingerprints.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> It doesn't get worse over time.


Yes because it's not a defect or problem with the panels themselves, rather the shoddy construction of most the rest of the thing.


----------



## Faded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> I've actually had this problem when i had 3 monitors connected at the same time. But for some reason it doesn't appear any more. Even though I'm running at different refresh rates.
> To be honest i'm really glad i went with the matte. Even with the matte overlay the light can still be annoying (or maybe i'm just weird
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> My laptop got a glossy and the reflections are pretty annoying, also i think the glossy screen is more susceptible to fingerprints.


I went with matte as well, really like it.

I haven't really tried to troubleshoot the lag on the second monitor, mainly because i only read webpages or watch videos on it and its only noticable when i'm moving windows around.

In any case, i've read that it can be related to refresh rate differences as well as the monitor having problems coming out of a power save state and it being reduced to 30fps... thats just what i've come up with from browsing around for a few, i'll do some driver cleanup and whatnot, over the weekend.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faded*
> 
> I went with matte as well, really like it.
> 
> I haven't really tried to troubleshoot the lag on the second monitor, mainly because i only read webpages or watch videos on it and its only noticable when i'm moving windows around.
> 
> In any case, i've read that it can be related to refresh rate differences as well as the monitor having problems coming out of a power save state and it being reduced to 30fps... thats just what i've come up with from browsing around for a few, i'll do some driver cleanup and whatnot, over the weekend.


Oh maybe it was a different problem then, because i had lags in games and stuff.


----------



## Faded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Oh maybe it was a different problem then, because i had lags in games and stuff.


i only game on the primary monitor and there is no lag on it... i would imagine if i moved games over to my secondary, i would see the lag i am experiencing with everything else


----------



## ivoryg37

I'm probably go with the glossy since I play games in the dark most of the time and during the daytime my curtains make it look like its still sunrise. Anyone got a recommended seller besides green sum and bigcloth


----------



## wntrsnowg

I have already had to delete some members list entries, because of no picture posted. Please post a picture if signing up, as stated in the OP!

Also, I found one newer member list entry that didn't even correspond to an existing OCN username. I will be going through the entire list soon, and deleting out false entries. This disturbs me


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I'm probably go with the glossy since I play games in the dark most of the time and during the daytime my curtains make it look like its still sunrise. Anyone got a recommended seller besides green sum and bigcloth


Hulustar, AccessoriesWhole...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I have already had to delete some members list entries, because of no picture posted. Please post a picture if signing up, as stated in the OP!
> 
> Also, I found one newer member list entry that didn't even correspond to an existing OCN username. I will be going through the entire list soon, and deleting out false entries. This disturbs me


Well I'm kinda lazy on these types of things; took me forever to even sign up. But will get to it this weekend...

Yeah I don't understand the fake entries wth is that supposed to accomplish?


----------



## dsands75

27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 ll 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor Matte Screen bought from Hulustar. Ordered on Friday and it arrived on Tuesday in Texas.

It overclocked to 120Hz right out of the box using EVGA Precision. I haven't tried going any higher yet.

I'm running two EVGA GTX 780 OC Cards.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsands75*
> 
> 
> 
> 27" QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 ll 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor Matte Screen bought from Hulustar. Ordered on Friday and it arrived on Tuesday in Texas.
> 
> It overclocked to 120Hz right out of the box using EVGA Precision. I haven't tried going any higher yet.
> 
> I'm running two EVGA GTX 780 OC Cards.


Post a pic with your name on the monitor so you can be added to the club bud..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah I don't understand the fake entries wth is that supposed to accomplish?


Threads like these can be like advertising space to ebay sellers. If they stack the thread with false entries how they are good, people will unknowingly buy from that seller, since they are stacked to look better.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Threads like these can be like advertising space to ebay sellers. If they stack the thread with false entries how they are good, people will unknowingly buy from that seller, since they are stacked to look better.


I never thought about that.. It makes sense.


----------



## dsands75

dsands75

Also, I just moved it up to 130Hz and don't see any issues at all. I launched into the game I'm playing now (Dragon's Prophet) and it's as smooth as butter. Am I perhaps doing something wrong?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsands75*
> 
> 
> 
> dsands75
> 
> Also, I just moved it up to 130Hz and don't see any issues at all. I launched into the game I'm playing now (Dragon's Prophet) and it's as smooth as butter. Am I perhaps doing something wrong?


Did you patch the nvidia drivers?


----------



## dsands75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Did you patch the nvidia drivers?


Yep, I'm patched up with the latest (and only) driver for the 780.

Display Devices

Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780
Manufacturer: NVIDIA
Chip type: NVxx
DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1004&SUBSYS_27833842&REV_A1
Display Memory: 2694 MB
Dedicated Memory: 2966 MB
Shared Memory: 3823 MB
Current Mode: 2560 x 1440 (32 bit) (130Hz)
Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
Monitor Model: DUAL-DVI
Monitor Id: HYO049B
Native Mode: 2560 x 1440(p) (59.951Hz)
Output Type: DVI
Driver Name: nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um
Driver File Version: 9.18.0013.2018 (English)
Driver Version: 9.18.13.2018


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsands75*
> 
> Yep, I'm patched up with the latest (and only) driver for the 780.
> 
> Display Devices
> 
> Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780
> Manufacturer: NVIDIA
> Chip type: NVxx
> DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
> Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1004&SUBSYS_27833842&REV_A1
> Display Memory: 2694 MB
> Dedicated Memory: 2966 MB
> Shared Memory: 3823 MB
> Current Mode: 2560 x 1440 (32 bit) (130Hz)
> Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
> Monitor Model: DUAL-DVI
> Monitor Id: HYO049B
> Native Mode: 2560 x 1440(p) (59.951Hz)
> Output Type: DVI
> Driver Name: nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um
> Driver File Version: 9.18.0013.2018 (English)
> Driver Version: 9.18.13.2018


You can use power strip to test and make sure you are getting the hz you have it set to.. Does yours get a lot dimmer once OCed?


----------



## dsands75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> You can use power strip to test and make sure you are getting the hz you have it set to.. Does yours get a lot dimmer once OCed?


Yeah... when I set it to 120Hz it was noticeably darker. I applied one of the ICC profiles in this thread and it brightened it up. Looks great now!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I reinstalled Windows the other day and have been running at 60Hz since and really don't notice a huge IQ difference 2D or 3D as a result of it not being darkened at present by OC, with or without an ICC. Though, of course, it would be better if it did not do that at all even though ICCs and other tweaks can generally compensate for it. But it certainly doesn't look a ton better at 60Hz without the darkening to me like at least one dude claimed (though that guy came off as kinda hard to please in general).


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah I reinstalled Windows the other day and have been running at 60Hz since and really don't notice a huge IQ difference 2D or 3D as a result of it not being darkened at present by OC, with or without an ICC. Though, of course, it would be better if it did not do that at all even though ICCs and other tweaks can generally compensate for it. But it certainly doesn't look a ton better at 60Hz without the darkening to me like at least one dude claimed (though that guy came off as kinda hard to please in general).


Ya for me when I am surfing or anything other then gaming then 60hz is the way to go..


----------



## mikekink

Just for the hell of it I decided to try to go as high as precision x would let me, and I got up to 134hz (was silky smooth), for some reason increasing the bar farther nothing happens. This is on the latest stock NVidia drivers I didn't do any patching but I did use the catleap inf drivers.

At the moment I am only running a single gtx 560ti and I run 96hz 24/7 but at 134hz it just felt much smoother without any real side effects except for maybe slight image retention but I rarely experience it especially with a screensaver.

Anyways here are pics:


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ya for me when I am surfing or anything other then gaming then 60hz is the way to go..


I leave my main one on 120, the other 2 are on 60


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> Just for the hell of it I decided to try to go as high as precision x would let me, and I got up to 134hz (was silky smooth), for some reason increasing the bar farther nothing happens. This is on the latest stock NVidia drivers I didn't do any patching but I did use the catleap inf drivers.
> 
> At the moment I am only running a single gtx 560ti and I run 96hz 24/7 but at 134hz it just felt much smoother without any real side effects except for maybe slight image retention but I rarely experience it especially with a screensaver.
> 
> Anyways here are pics:


That is pretty awesome without tweaking CRU settings and cables. I would say you got a damn good monitor.

Are you using the stock cable?
Also do you notice any screen uniformity issues?

I had a nightmare trying to get mine just right at +120hz and might want to try defaulting and giving the precision tool.


----------



## majnu

what's this precision tool?
edit - nvm evga precision x.
Yeh still couldn't get a stable 120hz. You guys are lucky.


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> That is pretty awesome without tweaking CRU settings and cables. I would say you got a damn good monitor.
> 
> Are you using the stock cable?
> Also do you notice any screen uniformity issues?
> 
> I had a nightmare trying to get mine just right at +120hz and might want to try defaulting and giving the precision tool.


not using the stock cable, though I didn't try going over 96hz when I used the stock cable. I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010CSDM4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the cable is beautiful.
Not noticing any dark spots, looks pretty much the same as 96hz for me except a little bit darker (obviously using a color profile otherwise it looks ****ty) and the image retention is more noticeable vs 96hz which is still negligible for me.

Edit: @majnu http://www.evga.com/precision/


----------



## dsands75

I'm using the cable that came with my QNIX monitor. I'm completely stable at 130Hz but when I cranked it to the max of 139Hz using Precision every 30 seconds or so the screen would just freeze for a few seconds and then come back to life. I backed it down in 1Hz increments to 135Hz and was still getting the freezes so I assume that 130-135Hz is the max I'm going to get with this monitor. What a ripoff!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ya for me when I am surfing or anything other then gaming then 60hz is the way to go..


Well I was kind of saying the opposite that I don't think 60Hz is a big improvement personally; that even though it gets darker 96Hz is not "worse" me.


----------



## ivoryg37

before I hit buy now, this is the correct one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130876866341?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> before I hit buy now, this is the correct one?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/130876866341?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Yes sir..


----------



## ivoryg37

Thank you, can't wait! As much as I want to get matte due to everyone recommendation. I loved the monoprice one but some reason the refresh rate was locked at 59, I couldn't even overclock it to the stock 60 it was suppose to be. SInce you said the monoprice one was glossy. I might as well get the glossy one since I know I already like it instead of risk getting the matte then not liking it.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Thank you, can't wait! As much as I want to get matte due to everyone recommendation. I loved the monoprice one but some reason the refresh rate was locked at 59, I couldn't even overclock it to the stock 60 it was suppose to be. SInce you said the monoprice one was glossy. I might as well get the glossy one since I know I already like it instead of risk getting the matte then not liking it.


The monoprice one i had was the pefect panel guarantee one..I don't know if you had the same one..But i think all Monoprice monitors are glossy now that i think of it..They just use a anti glare coat on the screen to give it a purplish tone to reflections..


----------



## ivoryg37

Yeah I had the perfect panel one that look like the QNIX, I just bought and paid for my gloss qnix from hulustar. Hopefully it can OC. I'm trying to decide if I want to pick up two more for surround. I would like to wait but they might end up changing the pcb to not be able to OC lol


----------



## wntrsnowg

Just went through the members list. Cut out at least 6 fake entries. People who are adding fake entries, screw you!


----------



## OneGun

Brightbus i found the OSD thingy on RadeonPro i was looking for...I am usually at 8ms also..Thank you..


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Which one is your favorite?And have you OCed it yet?


Hmm, not sure. I'm using the Qnix as main as it OC'd to 120hz straight out of the box. There is noticeable BLB at the bottom but minor enough for me not to bother trying to fix it with the tape mod...

Severe darkening at 120hz but overcome with max brightness and good ICC profile.

The Catleap is (barring the awful stand) better built, which ain't saying much! It has a much bluer, colder temp before calibration, whereas the Qnix is yellowy-warm by default...

Only got the Yamasaki to 116hz tho and there is one stuck pixel (not a huge deal, but one more than the Qnix)...

It's the price that's the doozy: it cost more than twice as much as the Qnix and it certainly isn't worth that premium (especially with the default stand). I've since put on an old HannsG stand that's rock solid but it took ages to take apart the monitor (26 screws) to do so... I'm presuming the Qnix is less hassle (tho the stand is adequate as it is for the moment)....

PS **Darth Vader voice**: _"OneGun, I find your choice of avatar.... disturbing_."


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> Hmm, not sure. I'm using the Qnix as main as it OC'd to 120hz straight out of the box. There is noticeable BLB at the bottom but minor enough for me not to bother trying to fix it with the tape mod...
> 
> Severe darkening at 120hz but overcome with max brightness and good ICC profile.
> 
> The Catleap is (barring the awful stand) better built, which ain't saying much! It has a much bluer, colder temp before calibration, whereas the Qnix is yellowy-warm by default...
> 
> Only got the Yamasaki to 116hz tho and there is one stuck pixel (not a huge deal, but one more than the Qnix)...
> 
> It's the price that's the doozy: it cost more than twice as much as the Qnix and it certainly isn't worth that premium (especially with the default stand). I've since put on an old HannsG stand that's rock solid but it took ages to take apart the monitor (26 screws) to do so... I'm presuming the Qnix is less hassle (tho the stand is adequate as it is for the moment)....
> 
> PS **Darth Vader voice**: _"OneGun, I find your choice of avatar.... disturbing_."


HAHA...I find my avatar makes me laugh every time i look at it..








What profile do you use at 120hz?


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> HAHA...I find my avatar makes me laugh every time i look at it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What profile do you use at 120hz?


I try *not* to look at your avatar!









I got the ICC profile from here somewhere but since I renamed the file to Qnix 120hz, err I'm not sure which one it was. But it works good!









I _think_ it was cor35vet's 120 profile: http://woabou.eu/files/icc/


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I'm probably go with the glossy since I play games in the dark most of the time and during the daytime my curtains make it look like its still sunrise. Anyone got a recommended seller besides green sum and bigcloth


I can recommend excellentcastle, got an almost perfect monitor, quick shipping and he automatically marked it for lower value.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I can recommend excellentcastle, got an almost perfect monitor, quick shipping and he automatically marked it for lower value.


We don't have to worry about the value off the monitor in the Us.. As we have no fees or taxes to pay.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Brightbus i found the OSD thingy on RadeonPro i was looking for...I am usually at 8ms also..Thank you..


Great! That sounds about right. I can get most of my games so far at 120 fps at 1440p. Some games like to be weird though, like Hitman Absolution. It likes to vary between 80-140 for some reason. I haven't tried sc2 since I got my new card, but I know sc2 is cpu intensive and likes to act up if you have really high frames, so I don't know if there will be any improvements there. It feels great to finally get 120 fps in most games haha.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Great! That sounds about right. I can get most of my games so far at 120 fps at 1440p. Some games like to be weird though, like Hitman Absolution. It likes to vary between 80-140 for some reason. I haven't tried sc2 since I got my new card, but I know sc2 is cpu intensive and likes to act up if you have really high frames, so I don't know if there will be any improvements there. It feels great to finally get 120 fps in most games haha.


I really feel that i should get a new GPU now... I can barely get 80 fps on BF3 with some of the lowest settings...

If i'm lucky i might be able to pick up my brothers card for X-fire







Otherwise i will probably wait for the 8xxx series and see if i can catch a good deal with some bonus games (Hopefully BF4)


----------



## majnu

morning

would adding a second bridge to my 670's in sli possibly help reach 120hz? Has anyone tried this?


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I can recommend excellentcastle, got an almost perfect monitor, quick shipping and he automatically marked it for lower value.


Did you get the Clicktronic cable btw? If so, did you reach 120hz and does it even work at 1440p?

I'm hella confused about all these cables... Especially because they vary so much in price. And no monoprice nearby.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> morning
> 
> would adding a second bridge to my 670's in sli possibly help reach 120hz? Has anyone tried this?


Well it's stated in the patcher guide i think. That you must have two bridges for it to work optimal. Not sure if that also counts for Nvidia tho.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> I really feel that i should get a new GPU now... I can barely get 80 fps on BF3 with some of the lowest settings...
> 
> If i'm lucky i might be able to pick up my brothers card for X-fire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise i will probably wait for the 8xxx series and see if i can catch a good deal with some bonus games (Hopefully BF4)


The hd8000 series is a rebrand for oems I believe. The next generation of amd cards will be the 9000 series.

What Gpu are you running?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> We don't have to worry about the value off the monitor in the Us.. As we have no fees or taxes to pay.


Technically you still owe any applicable sales taxes in your state.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> The hd8000 series is a rebrand for oems I believe. The next generation of amd cards will be the 9000 series.
> 
> What Gpu are you running?


So is the next generation (9xxx) coming out this year? I've also heard something about the 8xxx series is only for laptops or something. - That got me confused









Currently I'm running with a 7850.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Technically you still owe any applicable sales taxes in your state.


Right...just like everything else I buy on the internet and don't pay tax on. This will not be the case for much longer, of course.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> So is the next generation (9xxx) coming out this year? I've also heard something about the 8xxx series is only for laptops or something. - That got me confused
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I'm running with a 7850.


I belive 8000 series are oem rebrands of 7000 series cards, but mostly laptops. The rumor is that 9000 might come out end of this year, but will probably not be until next year. Amd hasn't a officially announced anything yet, so its all speculation at this point.


----------



## brightbus

*repost*


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I belive 8000 series are oem rebrands of 7000 series cards, but mostly laptops. The rumor is that 9000 might come out end of this year, but will probably not be until next year. Amd hasn't a officially announced anything yet, so its all speculation at this point.


Well, there is a rumour that AMD is gonna show off their new cards at E3.

Source: http://videocardz.com/42652/amd-to-show-latest-graphics-cards-on-e3?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=amd-to-show-latest-graphics-cards-on-e3


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Well, there is a rumour that AMD is gonna show off their new cards at E3.
> 
> Source: http://videocardz.com/42652/amd-to-show-latest-graphics-cards-on-e3?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=amd-to-show-latest-graphics-cards-on-e3


Hopefully its the 9k series, but its also positive they might be showing off the 8k series.

Also with them developing the apus in the one/ps4 could also have something to do with that.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Hopefully its the 9k series, but its also positive they might be showing off the 8k series.
> 
> Also with them developing the apus in the one/ps4 could also have something to do with that.


Yeaps. Just hoping for some good news for us desktop users


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ok this Gateway stand from eBay is the shiz for the price. Well designed and constructed and thus totally sturdy with a powered 4 port USB hub as well (hell I might power my Raspberry Pi from it). Up, down, tilt, portrait all a breeze. Mine even came with screws after all and I'm really glad cause the ones I bought were slightly too long.

Installation _was_ easy too. The top tabs were the only thing that gave me any trouble. Once you get the front bezel frame off you can see the stock stubs screws right there and just requires lifting the panel (only held down by two unsecured tabs on each side at this point) slightly upwards so you can get at them. If you don't have an angled or stubby screwdriver then will need to lift higher and thus also disconnect the front connections.

Glad I did not need to remove the frame; that part definitely gets to be much more careful work I can see. I did see the likely cause of my top right corner bleed though which is the frame being much tighter against the panel in that spot. For the helluva it I did put three layers of tape on top of the frame there and I actually think it may have helped but is still daylight.

Only minor nitpick with this stand is it's darkish grey not black (to match Gateway's displays 7 years ago).


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok this Gateway stand from eBay is the shiz for the price. Well designed and constructed and thus totally sturdy with a powered 4 port USB hub as well (hell I might power my Raspberry Pi from it). Up, down, tilt, landscape all a breeze. Mine even came with screws after all and I'm really glad cause the ones I bought were slightly too long.
> 
> Installation _was_ easy too. The top tabs were the only thing that gave me any trouble. Once you get the front bezel frame off you can see the stock stubs screws right there and just requires lifting the panel (only held down by two unsecured tabs on each side at this point) slightly upwards so you can get at them. If you don't have an angled or stubby screwdriver then will need to lift higher and thus also disconnect the front connections.
> 
> Glad I did not need to remove the frame; that part definitely gets to be much more careful work I can see. I did see the likely cause of my top right corner bleed though which is the frame being much tighter against the panel in that spot. For the helluva it I did put three layers of tape on top of the frame there and I actually think it may have helped but is still daylight.
> 
> Only minor nitpick with this stand is it's darkish grey not black (to match Gateway's displays 7 years ago).


Pics with monitor please







If I ever go back down to one or two monitors instead of 3 I'd def look into one of these stands.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok this Gateway stand from eBay is the shiz for the price. Well designed and constructed and thus totally sturdy with a powered 4 port USB hub as well (hell I might power my Raspberry Pi from it). Up, down, tilt, landscape all a breeze. Mine even came with screws after all and I'm really glad cause the ones I bought were slightly too long.
> 
> Installation _was_ easy too. The top tabs were the only thing that gave me any trouble. Once you get the front bezel frame off you can see the stock stubs screws right there and just requires lifting the panel (only held down by two unsecured tabs on each side at this point) slightly upwards so you can get at them. If you don't have an angled or stubby screwdriver then will need to lift higher and thus also disconnect the front connections.
> 
> Glad I did not need to remove the frame; that part definitely gets to be much more careful work I can see. I did see the likely cause of my top right corner bleed though which is the frame being much tighter against the panel in that spot. For the helluva it I did put three layers of tape on top of the frame there and I actually think it may have helped but is still daylight.
> 
> Only minor nitpick with this stand is it's darkish grey not black (to match Gateway's displays 7 years ago).


Glad it worked out. Gateway and Dell have always had pretty good stock stands.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Meant portrait not landscape above; edited. Pics don't seem to do it much justice (either the one on eBay which makes the base look tiny nor that which the other guy posted) but I can oblige later on today. The color diff probably won't be noticeable either but we'll see...


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Meant portrait not landscape above; edited. Pics don't seem to do it much justice (either the one on eBay nor that the other guy posted) but I can oblige later on today.


thanks


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Heh when I turn it on it no longer moves at all!


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Heh when I turn it on it no longer moves at all!


haha yeah the stock stand is bad. I just wish the stock stand connected to the vesa mount so you didn't have to open up the monitor to replace it.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> haha yeah the stock stand is bad. I just wish the stock stand connected to the vesa mount so you didn't have to open up the monitor to replace it.


I'll tell you what the stock stand is better then the one on my monoprice monitor as that one was really wobbly.. I can live with this one..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> haha yeah the stock stand is bad. I just wish the stock stand connected to the vesa mount so you didn't have to open up the monitor to replace it.


+1 that is what i did and it fit onto my triple monitor mount with the stand piece attached. I think just about all stock stands are kinda crap(except for Dell and some gateway)


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I'll tell you what the stock stand is better then the one on my monoprice monitor as that one was really wobbly.. I can live with this one..


Do you still have your monoprice monitor? Was it this one

http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=10526&seq=1&format=1#largeimage


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> +1 that is what i did and it fit onto my triple monitor mount with the stand piece attached. I think just about all stock stands are kinda crap(except for Dell and some gateway)


So you left the stand piece attached? Do you have 3 qnix monitors and what triple stand do you have. Do you have pictures?

haha, I'm weird, I love seeing peoples setups


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Do you still have your monoprice monitor? Was it this one
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=10526&seq=1&format=1#largeimage


No I sent it back ad got my $500 back.. And it was this one..
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=10489&seq=1&format=2


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> No I sent it back ad got my $500 back.. And it was this one..
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=10489&seq=1&format=2


ah, not counting the ability to overclock, is the qnix much better? Also I'll be glad when display port is the standard. I mean having 3 qnix's I won't be upgrading anytime soon, but I like display port a lot better than dvi. Esp the ability to hook up 3 high resolution monitors without adapters.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> ah, not counting the ability to overclock, is the qnix much better? Also I'll be glad when display port is the standard. I mean having 3 qnix's I won't be upgrading anytime soon, but I like display port a lot better than dvi. Esp the ability to hook up 3 high resolution monitors without adapters.


The monoprice was a great display..Zero flaws at all as it was guaranteed. But I didn't like the glossy as it is really sunny where my computer is.. And the stand sucked..But the display was perfect..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> The monoprice was a great display..Zero flaws at all as it was guaranteed. But I didn't like the glossy as it is really sunny where my computer is.. And the stand sucked..But the display was perfect..


Ah awesome. My dell monitor is matte, but all my others, (including the qnix) is glossy. My laptop is glossy too. I'm just use to it by now I suppose. My computers is away from the window though. I do notice reflections sometime, but not enough to bother me.

Do they not have a monoprice matte version I'm assuming?


----------



## OneGun

No they don't.. At least not yet.. They are all glossy with a Anti glare coating with gives the reflections a purplish tint.. The 30in ones might come in a matte but the 27in ones don't..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> No they don't.. At least not yet.. They are all glossy with a Anti glare coating with gives the reflections a purplish tint.. The 30in ones might come in a matte but the 27in ones don't..


My next challenge, tri-screen 2560x1600 30''! Haha jk, I've already spent enough money on my setup lol.


----------



## Mesima

Thinking about ordering one of these and shelling out the extra $$$ for a Pixel Perfect version, I know it's not needed but it makes me feel better haha! I've been watching reviews on this monitor and skimming through this thread and these monitors seem like a solid bet! I REALLY like the fact that you can OC these beasts to 120hz!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> So you left the stand piece attached? Do you have 3 qnix monitors and what triple stand do you have. Do you have pictures?
> 
> haha, I'm weird, I love seeing peoples setups


I have a 1 Qnix in the middle and two Asus 1080p IPS monitors on the outsides. My stand is a custom aluminum stand i had made by a metal shop with multi-directional VESA connectors from monoprice coming off the stand to hold the monitors and give them all the angels i want. I have the Qnix running 120hz and the Asus monitors running 72hz overclocked(no frame skipping). I also have the Asus monitors downsampling to 1180x2020 resolution to just about match the PPI look of the Qnix(used the sharpness OSD setting to make up for the slight blur downsampling creates) This way when i move objects from screen to screen they don't change size(bugged the heck out of me).

I am not going to provide picture right now my office is a MESS with my triple laptop panel project going among actual work lol.

On another note i can tell everyone it is pointless to downsample the Qnix in my opinion. I did get it to [email protected] but it gets WAY to blurry and the UI gets pretty small(might be able to compensate with GUI appearance settings). I overall saw a good difference in games but the performance hit was pretty bad and i could not stand 48hz after seeing 120hz.


----------



## ivoryg37

Man I can't wait to get mine. I paid last night so hopefully before Thursday since everyone says hulustar are pretty fast shippers. Man I can't decid if I want to order two more. I've always wanted to run surround but Idk if its worth the cost lol


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Man I can't wait to get mine. I paid last night so hopefully before Thursday since everyone says hulustar are pretty fast shippers. Man I can't decid if I want to order two more. I've always wanted to run surround but Idk if its worth the cost lol


Eyefinity muahaha



I don't normally run it like that though. This is my normal setup


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Eyefinity muahaha
> 
> 
> 
> I don't normally run it like that though. This is my normal setup


The second picture is just about what i am doing but with Asus on the outside.


----------



## dzap

so mine arrived to customs, had to drive for an hour to pick it up myself, otherwise would have waited till next week. Everything looks ok - default BLB at center bottom (will unscrew that unneeded screw some time next week), 0 dead pixels, thought there is small inside scratch, which gives out white color in black background, thought as it is smaller than pixel wide, I dont really care. OC of 120hz works, but gives some red scan lines from time to time, so dropped back to 115hz and sitting stable. Using Catleap's dual dvi cable, as it gives less scan lines being double as long.

Oh and btw Lithuanian customs billed me 100 US $ lol even thought I managed to get the value of monitor decreased to 150$ it still looks like way too much for me, even for 300$ real value, dont you think?.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Did you get the Clicktronic cable btw? If so, did you reach 120hz and does it even work at 1440p?
> 
> I'm hella confused about all these cables... Especially because they vary so much in price. And no monoprice nearby.
> Well it's stated in the patcher guide i think. That you must have two bridges for it to work optimal. Not sure if that also counts for Nvidia tho.


where does it mention that specifically?

I don't want to waste money on a SLI bridge only to find Toasty never said it. I did look on the patcher thread and couldn't see it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> haha yeah the stock stand is bad. I just wish the stock stand connected to the vesa mount so you didn't have to open up the monitor to replace it.


I agree though it really wasn't too bad. Also gives you the opp to inspect your frame and fix any play or off-centerness. Plus I really do think putting some tape on the frame has helped the corner bleed (even tho the cause seems to be too-tight frame against panel there).

Also, haven't you already removed yours for your triple mount??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> where does it mention that specifically?
> 
> I don't want to waste money on a SLI bridge only to find Toasty never said it. I did look on the patcher thread and couldn't see it.


There has been more than one crossfire user who has def needed another bridge. Just get it; it's like $5.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> where does it mention that specifically?
> 
> I don't want to waste money on a SLI bridge only to find Toasty never said it. I did look on the patcher thread and couldn't see it.


It does not state that anywhere for sli only for crossfire..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I agree though it really wasn't too bad. Also gives you the opp to inspect your frame and fix any play or off-centerness. Plus I really do think putting some tape on the frame has helped the corner bleed (even tho the cause seems to be too-tight frame against panel there).
> 
> Also, haven't you already removed yours for your triple mount??
> There has been more than one crossfire user who has def needed another bridge. Just get it; it's like $5.


I did remove them. I would have preferred to not have had to open it if I didn't have to do. But it looks so bad with it on there.

Also some cards only have the connections for one bridge, ie my previous cards xfx 7870's


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Not SLI too? Well, ok, but it stands to reason this is due to increased bandwidth needs with higher Hz not anything specific to AMD/Crossfire...but I am just speculating.

Yeah I know with some cards you are SOL in this regard.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Not SLI too? Well, ok, but it stands to reason this is due to increased bandwidth needs with higher Hz not anything specific to AMD/Crossfire...but I am just speculating.
> 
> Yeah I know with some cards you are SOL in this regard.


I'm not so sure about nvidia, I'm not versed so much in those cards. I just know some amd cards only have one.

My current card only has room for one crossfire, but then again it already has two gpus


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well I think it's safe to say I'd be trying another bridge with NV cards too if I had any problems with them.


----------



## brightbus

My 2nd and 3rd monitors wont go above 96hz, and at 96 its fuzzy. I think it has more to do with my adapters though.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> My second two monitors wont go above 96hz, and at 96 its fuzzy. I think it has more to do with my adapters though.


dl-dvi to display port active adapters?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Not SLI too? Well, ok, but it stands to reason this is due to increased bandwidth needs with higher Hz not anything specific to AMD/Crossfire...but I am just speculating.
> 
> Yeah I know with some cards you are SOL in this regard.


it's crossfire only, with sli a single bridge is fine


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> dl-dvi to display port active adapters?


yup. others have claimed to get 120hz with the specific ones I have, but I have not. Which is not a bad deal considering those two are used mainly for web browsing.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> dl-dvi to display port active adapters?
> 
> 
> 
> yup. others have claimed to get 120hz with the specific ones I have, but I have not. Which is not a bad deal considering those two are used mainly for web browsing.
Click to expand...

I couldn't get my adaptor to go past 90 :/


----------



## OneGun

From everything I have read a single sli bridge will be fine.. But I could be wrong..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ok. Sure do wonder why/what the difference is.


----------



## dzap

have anyone got SVP (Smooth Video Playback) working on anything around 120hz?


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> have anyone got SVP (Smooth Video Playback) working on anything around 120hz?


Yes but not on Bluray 1080p videos. Those are way too next level!

720p and 480p works fine though


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> have anyone got SVP (Smooth Video Playback) working on anything around 120hz?


I tried messing with it quite a bit but couldn't get very good performance on it with a GTX570. It might work better if i was not using madvr max settings and it would also help if SVP and madvr supported SLI so i could use both GTX570s in my machine. A 6xx or 7xx series card is going to be needed and especially more VRAM than 1.25gb.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Yes but not on Bluray 1080p videos. Those are way too next level!
> 
> 720p and 480p works fine though


All my content is HD source.........better sweet LOL


----------



## Chrisoldinho

Can anyone post up some CRU settings they are using to get 120Hz stable, I can do 110Hz no problem using LCD reduced but I hit a wall at 120, and this is what I am after ideally.

Thanks,
Chris.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisoldinho*
> 
> Can anyone post up some CRU settings they are using to get 120Hz stable, I can do 110Hz no problem using LCD reduced but I hit a wall at 120, and this is what I am after ideally.
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris.


What happens when you try to do 120hz? Tweaking CRU settings will just clean up some slight instability. Using LCD reduced gets you very "close" to as good as you can get with CRU settings. If you are hitting a wall other cables or ports may need to be tried. If you are not even getting a picture you may not get what you need from CRU settings.


----------



## jayhay

I figured out my down clocking issue on my 560ti with the patched nvidia drivers. All 500 series nvidia cards will run at *full* clock speeds even at idle, according to the driver patch notes. I ended up going back to 60hz on the QNIX, as my temps were almost 20c higher running my card at 100%, 100% of the time. And TBH, the monitor looks great at 60hz. It's almost feels easier on the eyes.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I figured out my down clocking issue on my 560ti with the patched nvidia drivers. All 500 series nvidia cards will run at *full* clock speeds even at idle, according to the driver patch notes. I ended up going back to 60hz on the QNIX, as my temps were almost 20c higher running my card at 100%, 100% of the time. And TBH, the monitor looks great at 60hz. It's almost feels easier on the eyes.


Why would they have them run full speed all the time. Seems dumb.


----------



## dzap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Yes but not on Bluray 1080p videos. Those are way too next level!
> 
> 720p and 480p works fine though


Is it possible to do on AMD HD5850? Coz messing up with that DXVA and green screens are giving me headaches...


----------



## silverfox1

Currently preparing to pull the trigger on the below Perfect Pixel QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" Matte from the seller Greensum. Although i have not shopped around to research all the various sellers average prices this one appears to be fair. Unless someone can direct me to a better deal.
After reading quite a bit of this thread it sounds like a roll of the dice regardless of which seller the buyer chooses to purchase from.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11

Regards,


----------



## brightbus

As of late seems people have had issues with dreamseller and greensum. I can't personally testify to that though.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Normally I'd say don't worry about Perfect Pixel but $309 is a good price. I thought they'd be generally higher by now too.

Ok here are stand photos (portrait *just* fits at top height):


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayhay*
> 
> I figured out my down clocking issue on my 560ti with the patched nvidia drivers. All 500 series nvidia cards will run at *full* clock speeds even at idle, according to the driver patch notes. I ended up going back to 60hz on the QNIX, as my temps were almost 20c higher running my card at 100%, 100% of the time. And TBH, the monitor looks great at 60hz. It's almost feels easier on the eyes.


That is the weirdest thing ever. My 560ti also runs at full clock speeds but it barely affects anything for me. Whether I run 96hz 24/7 or 60hz my temps at idle are identical at 49c and nothing changes, fan speeds stay the same etc. Don't know why you are having that weird issue.

@brightbus the 500 series is weird like that, its not actually running at 100 percent 24/7.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Better airflow mayhaps; it's definitely wierd--that you notice no diff.


----------



## mikekink

Well I don't know if its just me but every thing stays exactly the same except of course the screen gets negligibly dimmer.
I have this card http://us.msi.com/product/vga/N560GTX-Ti-Twin-Frozr-II-2GD5-OC.html


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Normally I'd say don't worry about Perfect Pixel but $309 is a good price. I thought they'd be generally higher by now too.
> 
> Ok here are stand photos (portrait *just* fits at top height):


Thanks for the pics, looks awesome.


----------



## OneGun

When I run at 120hz my main card clocks go up to 500/1250 but when I am at 60hz it's at 300/150..


----------



## Crzybritfox

I had that problem with the 560ti when i was running dual monitors,there is a bug that does not make them down clock properly,
I had to use nvidia inspector and set it for multi display power saving mode

http://pcgamesbeat.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/enable-power-saving-mode-on-nvidia-gpus.html


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Why would they have them run full speed all the time. Seems dumb.


According to the monitortests.com thread explaining how to overclock these panels (from post #1 in this thread) they say,

_"500-series GPUs will not clock down when idle if the pixel clock is greater than 404 MHz. The Idle Screen Saver can be used as a workaround.."_

I don't make the rules, nor am I smart enough to change them. Just letting you all know.


----------



## snub115

So guys my monitor came in from hulustar only paid 18.00 in custom fees, and ive quickly put it together as i have to go back to work and wont be able to test it fully until the 18th









Here are some pics btw i did a quick fullscreen of the red blue and green to check dead pixels and i saw nothing, also the stand is very flimsy and there was one screw to attach it so im not sure if i did it right. I might need more help from you guys later but for now everything looks good and im using 7 clicks of the brightness up button.

http://s57.photobucket.com/user/snub17/media/20130608_184649_zpsbaddc755.jpg.html

http://s57.photobucket.com/user/snub17/media/20130608_184934_zps1115d38d.jpg.html

http://s57.photobucket.com/user/snub17/media/20130608_184959_zps11bc7682.jpg.html


----------



## bmancreations

I really want to get another one of these monitors and have two screens.

The issue is it only accepts Dual-link DVI correct? My video card has only one of those, it has another DVI, but its not duel link, at least I don't think so. It's actually, Dual-Link DVI-I is the second one, does it work with that?

Is there anyway to connect this monitor without dual-link DVI?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No there is no way without dual-link to push this many pixels but if your second port is in fact *dual-link DVI-I* then you're fine.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No there is no way without dual-link to push this many pixels but if your second port is in fact *dual-link DVI-I* then you're fine.


Are you sure? I just plugged the monitor into the DVI-I and its just flashing test screens, colors and gradients, thats all.


----------



## ivoryg37

Thanks for the pic brightbus, I may end up getting two of these. One in landscape and the other in portrait. I don't think I would ever need 3 screens lol


----------



## bmancreations

Never-mind, it's working on DVI-I


----------



## PomuM

Hey guys! I've been a lurker for a while but I made an account to ask a question.

I'm considering buying th Qnix x monitor from green-sum. However, it explicitly says to be used with a Dual Link DVI-D.

I have, or instead will be getting, a 7950 Vapor-X. Under Newegg specifications it says it has a Single Link DVI and a Dual Link DVI. It doesn't tell me if it's a Dual Link DVI-D or not. I remember reading somewhere it was a DVI-I, which won't work. But I don't know just how foggy my memory is or how reputable the site was.

It looks like to me it has two Dual Link DVI, a DVI-D and a DVI-I. In that case, it would work. Newegg link for clarification.

What do you guys think? Any same card owners?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PomuM*
> 
> Hey guys! I've been a lurker for a while but I made an account to ask a question.
> 
> I'm considering buying th Qnix x monitor from green-sum. However, it explicitly says to be used with a Dual Link DVI-D.
> 
> I have, or instead will be getting, a 7950 Vapor-X. Under Newegg specifications it says it has a Single Link DVI and a Dual Link DVI. It doesn't tell me if it's a Dual Link DVI-D or not. I remember reading somewhere it was a DVI-I, which won't work. But I don't know just how foggy my memory is or how reputable the site was.
> 
> It looks like to me it has two Dual Link DVI, a DVI-D and a DVI-I. In that case, it would work. Newegg link for clarification.
> 
> What do you guys think? Any same card owners?


Both of those DVI ports on that GPU you linked will work with the monitor.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PomuM*
> 
> Hey guys! I've been a lurker for a while but I made an account to ask a question.
> 
> I'm considering buying th Qnix x monitor from green-sum. However, it explicitly says to be used with a Dual Link DVI-D.
> 
> I have, or instead will be getting, a 7950 Vapor-X. Under Newegg specifications it says it has a Single Link DVI and a Dual Link DVI. It doesn't tell me if it's a Dual Link DVI-D or not. I remember reading somewhere it was a DVI-I, which won't work. But I don't know just how foggy my memory is or how reputable the site was.
> 
> It looks like to me it has two Dual Link DVI, a DVI-D and a DVI-I. In that case, it would work. Newegg link for clarification.
> 
> What do you guys think? Any same card owners?


I am running two 7950s and they have the right Dvi ports so you will be good bud..


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silverfox1*
> 
> Currently preparing to pull the trigger on the below Perfect Pixel QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" Matte from the seller Greensum. Although i have not shopped around to research all the various sellers average prices this one appears to be fair. Unless someone can direct me to a better deal.
> After reading quite a bit of this thread it sounds like a roll of the dice regardless of which seller the buyer chooses to purchase from.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11
> 
> Regards,


Just be very careful - I can't see the listing from school, but green-sum has some different policies for perfect pixel.

First of all, if it says "refund $5 for all dead pixel" avoid it.

Secondly, green-sum does not consider "dark" (his word) pixels as dead pixels, and they have no standard for how many are needed for a replacement.
The only guarantee is that there are no bright/stuck pixels.

This is based on the Perfect Pixel X-Star Matte I got from him.
After a few emails, he gave me a guarantee that there would be max 1 dark pixel, not near the center.

So if you are getting perfect pixel from him, take the time to clarify these things, or you could end up with something a lot worse than expected.

Good luck!


----------



## brightbus

You cam use these monitiors with displayport outs if you have active displayport to dual link dvi adapters. They are not cheap at about 100 each. My 7990 only has one dvi-i dual link out, and 4 minidisplay port outs. I already had adapters from when I used em with my 7870's though.

As long as its dual link i or d doesnt matter, as long as you use a dvi-d dual link cable


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Thanks for the pic brightbus, I may end up getting two of these. One in landscape and the other in portrait. I don't think I would ever need 3 screens lol


No problem. I don't "need" three screens persay, but they are damn useful


----------



## dzap

is there any way to make SVP work on HD5850 with win test mode enabled for CRU to reach 120hz?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> is there any way to make SVP work on HD5850 with win test mode enabled for CRU to reach 120hz?


Hmm I've never heard of svp, now I'm intrigued now that I've looked into it.


----------



## dzap

As I undrestand when display is overclocked only nvidia cards can do SVP, correct me if I am wrong as I really want to continue using it on my 5850.


----------



## Moragg

Is SVP the same thing as the smooth motion option in madvr? If so my HD7770 runs it on very bitrate intensive stuff quite easily.

Also, with an overlocked display to 120Hz, is there any need for smooth motion? 120 is a multiple of 24 and 30 so there should be no judder when playing back video.

Edit: They're not the same according to SVP dev - http://www.svp-team.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=1287

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> As I undrestand when display is overclocked only nvidia cards can do SVP, correct me if I am wrong as I really want to continue using it on my 5850.


I don't see why display overclocking should make any difference. It'll just have to interpolate more frames. Give it a go, worst-case scenario is only to come back down to 60Hz.


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Is SVP the same thing as the smooth motion option in madvr? If so my HD7770 runs it on very bitrate intensive stuff quite easily.


no it's far more advanced, interpolating frames with all sorts of complex algorithms
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Also, with an overlocked display to 120Hz, is there any need for smooth motion? 120 is a multiple of 24 and 30 so there should be no judder when playing back video.


yes there is a need, it makes quite a visual difference


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> no it's far more advanced, interpolating frames with all sorts of complex algorithms
> yes there is a need, it makes quite a visual difference


I just saw the video example and you're right. Will definitely be trying this out when I go home.

Interpolating all the way up to 1440p and 120Hz would take fairly decent graphics I expect.


----------



## Chrisoldinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> What happens when you try to do 120hz? Tweaking CRU settings will just clean up some slight instability. Using LCD reduced gets you very "close" to as good as you can get with CRU settings. If you are hitting a wall other cables or ports may need to be tried. If you are not even getting a picture you may not get what you need from CRU settings.


I get red horizontal scan lines, I can see most of the desktop even at this res however, I am just trying to "tweak" out the scan lines.


----------



## gockelmax

Guys I need a better DL-DVI cable I can only get to 116Hz with the stock cable.
Can anyone of you tell me what the best cables are?

btw does anyone know a german shop for those cables?


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I just saw the video example and you're right. Will definitely be trying this out when I go home.
> 
> Interpolating all the way up to 1440p and 120Hz would take fairly decent graphics I expect.


I noticed that it mainly uses CPU power to do all the interpolating and stuff, and also the load depends more on the source video file than the output resolution.

If you try to upscale a source file that is a 1080p MKV from a bluray it needs horrendous amounts of horsepower! My pretty decent computer can easily handle 480p anime episodes though.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> I noticed that it mainly uses CPU power to do all the interpolating and stuff, and also the load depends more on the source video file than the output resolution.
> 
> If you try to upscale a source file that is a 1080p MKV from a bluray it needs horrendous amounts of horsepower! My pretty decent computer can easily handle 480p anime episodes though.


Hmm what kind of horsepower? I watch mainly 720/1080p anime. Guessing might be too much for my 8350 then?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Hmm what kind of horsepower? I watch mainly 720/1080p anime. Guessing might be too much for my 8350 then?


Also depends on the anime in question. Very grainy/high bitrate anime would be a lot harder to interpolate I'd assume.
Reading the FAQ, anime needs lower quality settings (the high quality ones don't work with anime) so this should boost performance.

As a test they do have their own benchmark svpmark with online results database. Select processor and gpu and find the results if you can't be bothered to do it yourself.

The graph shows a GPU can increase performance by nearly 50%, so the 2 together are important. Not sure how much of a difference SLI/CFX makes.


----------



## hamzatm

The main factor is the bitrate, I reckon Anime will be far easier to process than the sort of detailed blu ray movies you get so you should be OK. Cartoon graphics even sophisticated ones are very efficient and light on bitrate compared to films.

My i2-2500k at stock speeds, with a GTX680 at stock interpolates 720p anime (Dragon Ball Z Kai actually) to a 120Hz (120FPS) 1080p monitor with absolute ease. 25 - 30% CPU load.

Interpolating 1080p anime should be similarly easy. Your 8350 will be fine (afaik)


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Also depends on the anime in question. Very grainy/high bitrate anime would be a lot harder to interpolate I'd assume.
> Reading the FAQ, anime needs lower quality settings (the high quality ones don't work with anime) so this should boost performance.
> 
> As a test they do have their own benchmark svpmark with online results database. Select processor and gpu and find the results if you can't be bothered to do it yourself.
> 
> The graph shows a GPU can increase performance by nearly 50%, so the 2 together are important. Not sure how much of a difference SLI/CFX makes.


Where can I find the benchmarks at? On the svp website?

My gpu is the 7990, so would be nice if the cfx helped







. I'm at work for another few hours, interested in trying this out when I get home.

Every since I've had computers that can play hd content, I've become spoiled my hd anime. I usually won't watch a series in sd unless its an older non hd series.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Where can I find the benchmarks at? On the svp website?
> 
> My gpu is the 7990, so would be nice if the cfx helped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm at work for another few hours, interested in trying this out when I get home.
> 
> Every since I've had computers that can play hd content, I've become spoiled my hd anime. I usually won't watch a series in sd unless its an older non hd series.


http://www.svp-team.com/wiki/Main_Page it's under "more stuff"

With your setup I'd be surprised if you couldn't improve the highest bitrate stuff - 10 to 20 kbps - to 1440p 60Hz. 120Hz shouldn't be too difficult either. If you can find Tenshi's Dantalian no Shoka BD remux's anywhere I'd try those - if you can play those back you should be fine.
I'm assuming you use madvr on the highest settings (if not, search for the Kawaii Codec Pack).

As hamzatm said, normal bluray movies will be much harder to run.

As an interesting CPU test, once you have madvr +xy-vsfilter try playing back Commie's Shingeki no Kyojin ep1. If you can playback the first 20 secs of the OP I will be very impressed (90k lines of typesetting, mine can't handle it).


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> http://www.svp-team.com/wiki/Main_Page it's under "more stuff"
> 
> With your setup I'd be surprised if you couldn't improve the highest bitrate stuff - 10 to 20 kbps - to 1440p 60Hz. 120Hz shouldn't be too difficult either. If you can find Tenshi's Dantalian no Shoka BD remux's anywhere I'd try those - if you can play those back you should be fine.
> I'm assuming you use madvr on the highest settings (if not, search for the Kawaii Codec Pack).
> 
> As hamzatm said, normal bluray movies will be much harder to run.
> 
> As an interesting CPU test, once you have madvr +xy-vsfilter try playing back Commie's Shingeki no Kyojin ep1. If you can playback the first 20 secs of the OP I will be very impressed (90k lines of typesetting, mine can't handle it).


Thanks! I'll def look into this when I get home. Anything to improve my anime watching







. My machine has been able to handle everything I can throw at it so far (upgraded from my core 2 quad Q6600 6 gigs of ram, xfx radeon 7770 black edition), but I know theres a limit somewhere.

And no I haven't tried madvr, I hadn't even thought of improving video quality when it comes to my pc before, I've just always tried to improve my graphics and video game capabilities (ie getting the 7990.)


----------



## silverfox1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Just be very careful - I can't see the listing from school, but green-sum has some different policies for perfect pixel.
> 
> First of all, if it says "refund $5 for all dead pixel" avoid it.
> 
> Secondly, green-sum does not consider "dark" (his word) pixels as dead pixels, and they have no standard for how many are needed for a replacement.
> The only guarantee is that there are no bright/stuck pixels.
> 
> This is based on the Perfect Pixel X-Star Matte I got from him.
> After a few emails, he gave me a guarantee that there would be max 1 dark pixel, not near the center.
> 
> So if you are getting perfect pixel from him, take the time to clarify these things, or you could end up with something a lot worse than expected.
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks for the tips but within the Greensum ad i listed he clearly states more then 1 in the center or more then 5 in the other quadrants is a defect and does not offer any $5.00 dead pixel refunds.

I still can order from Hulustar below since it does appear more folks have used him as a seller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bf9dd

Regards,


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silverfox1*
> 
> Thanks for the tips but within the Greensum ad i listed he clearly states more then 1 in the center or more then 5 in the other quadrants is a defect and does not offer any $5.00 dead pixel refunds.
> 
> I still can order from Hulustar below since it does appear more folks have used him as a seller:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e785bf9dd
> 
> Regards,


I have two monitors from hulustar and have had no issues.


----------



## silverfox1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I have two monitors from hulustar and have had no issues.


Thanks for the quick reply and i will take your experienced advice & hope for the best.

Regards,


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Thanks! I'll def look into this when I get home. Anything to improve my anime watching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My machine has been able to handle everything I can throw at it so far (upgraded from my core 2 quad Q6600 6 gigs of ram, xfx radeon 7770 black edition), but I know theres a limit somewhere.
> 
> And no I haven't tried madvr, I hadn't even thought of improving video quality when it comes to my pc before, I've just always tried to improve my graphics and video game capabilities (ie getting the 7990.)


You'll be able to handle madvr with ease, and I strongly reccomend it. It made 360p (no joke) content look watchable on my 1080p screen.

As for anime playback:
Lazy option: install http://haruhichan.com/forum/showthread.php?7545-KCP-Kawaii-Codec-Pack
Works great, just choose highest and then disable the options under "trade quality for performance" and enable smooth motion.

Better option: http://myanimelist.net/forum/?topicid=516729
A few of the components have been upgraded recently (notably madvr). Install them yourself and you get the newer versions.

Either way, enable smooth motion and disable all options under "trade quality for performance" in madvr settings.

Try out the stuff I mentioned, then see how much better SVP is. I'd be very interested to hear your results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silverfox1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I have two monitors from hulustar and have had no issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply and i will take your experienced advice & hope for the best.
> 
> Regards,
Click to expand...

Hulustar is very reputable. I emailed him about his fantastic event monitors - 0 to 2 defective pixels - and he said that there are no defects near center of the screen. If they are still available then these are good value, and the ones I'd reccomend on price vs risk.


----------



## majnu

does anyone know which file I should look for and where it is located as the refresh rates I used with EVGA Precision X pixel overclock have populated Windows drop down list uner advanced monitor options. I have refresh rates which didn't work and these show in games too. So unless I delete the file I cannot delete them from Windows and games.

thanks


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> You'll be able to handle madvr with ease, and I strongly reccomend it. It made 360p (no joke) content look watchable on my 1080p screen.
> 
> As for anime playback:
> Lazy option: install http://haruhichan.com/forum/showthread.php?7545-KCP-Kawaii-Codec-Pack
> Works great, just choose highest and then disable the options under "trade quality for performance" and enable smooth motion.
> 
> Better option: http://myanimelist.net/forum/?topicid=516729
> A few of the components have been upgraded recently (notably madvr). Install them yourself and you get the newer versions.
> 
> Either way, enable smooth motion and disable all options under "trade quality for performance" in madvr settings.
> 
> Try out the stuff I mentioned, then see how much better SVP is. I'd be very interested to hear your results.


Thanks! So should I uninstall vlc player + codecs so I can have a clean install when I start this?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Thanks! So should I uninstall vlc player + codecs so I can have a clean install when I start this?


Absolutely, all the guides say to uninstall any codec packs/vlc that you may have. Since getting madvr I use it for all video playback.
Make sure you get rid of ffdshow if it's installed. It has an annoying habit of creeping in unwanted.

Unfortunately I can't tell you anything about SVP but seems to require ffdshow and avisynth. Install it, then while playing back a file in MPC-HC right click and go to filters, and tell me if you see ffdshow in the list.
Try the Lite version of SVP and see if that works before installing avisynth, and if not then include ffdshow - but you want to avoid that if possible.

Edit: apparently ffdshow RAW video filter is required. If so, install ffdshow, add every single component into your external filters selection, and block them all (but set RAW to prefer). Also try giving RAW the lowest priority by putting it underneath all the other filters like LAV.

Madvr apparently contains a subtitle renderer called xy subfilter, not sure how well that works though. It may be an improvement of xy-vsfilter which is no longer being developed.


----------



## dzap

well Ive been using SVP for years, but now after display OC, running in testmode somehow mess up the hardware video playback, and all I see is 120 interpolated fps of green screen, anyhow to solve this as deselecting DXVA renderers doesnt help it still uses them on MPC-HC..?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> well Ive been using SVP for years, but now after display OC, running in testmode somehow mess up the hardware video playback, and all I see is 120 interpolated fps of green screen, anyhow to solve this as deselecting DXVA renderers doesnt help it still uses them on MPC-HC..?


How have you got MPC-HC set up (a specific codec pack/your own install)?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Absolutely, all the guides say to uninstall any codec packs/vlc that you may have. Since getting madvr I use it for all video playback.
> Make sure you get rid of ffdshow if it's installed. It has an annoying habit of creeping in unwanted.
> 
> Unfortunately I can't tell you anything about SVP but seems to require ffdshow and avisynth. Install it, then while playing back a file in MPC-HC right click and go to filters, and tell me if you see ffdshow in the list.
> Try the Lite version of SVP and see if that works before installing avisynth, and if not then include ffdshow - but you want to avoid that if possible.
> 
> Edit: apparently ffdshow RAW video filter is required. If so, install ffdshow, add every single component into your external filters selection, and block them all (but set RAW to prefer). Also try giving RAW the lowest priority by putting it underneath all the other filters like LAV.
> 
> Madvr apparently contains a subtitle renderer called xy subfilter, not sure how well that works though. It may be an improvement of xy-vsfilter which is no longer being developed.


What's wrong with ffdshow is it bad? I've been using that for years with codec installs, way back when I used k-lite codec pack.


----------



## dzap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> How have you got MPC-HC set up (a specific codec pack/your own install)?


All came with SVP package deal


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> What's wrong with ffdshow is it bad? I've been using that for years with codec installs, way back when I used k-lite codec pack.


https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=146228 scroll down to the pictures. Madvr is noticably better, and with your graphics card you might as well use it. All the anime encoders really don't like ffdshow, and madvr is (afaik) almost universally accepted as best.

Maybe it isn't bad, but you don't buy 8 cores and a HD7990 for low/middle tier results








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> How have you got MPC-HC set up (a specific codec pack/your own install)?
> 
> 
> 
> All came with SVP package deal
Click to expand...

I haven't got a clue to be honest. Some potential fixes:
Go to MPC-HC, go to preferences>external filters. Go through all of them (ffdshow, LAV, avisynth) and disable hardware decoding/acceleration. I've heard quite a few reports of these causing problems, and as an option it may not work properly under test mode.

To test it, try running testmode at 60Hz. If the problem persists testmode is the cause.

Alternatively try the method I outlined to brightbus for video playback.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=146228 scroll down to the pictures. Madvr is noticably better, and with your graphics card you might as well use it. All the anime encoders really don't like ffdshow, and madvr is (afaik) almost universally accepted as best.
> 
> Maybe it isn't bad, but you don't buy 8 cores and a HD7990 for low/middle tier results


Haha too true. I got like 2 more hours here at work, can't wait to work on this and see if/how much it improves my anime. I have a ton on backlog to watch


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> You'll be able to handle madvr with ease, and I strongly reccomend it. It made 360p (no joke) content look watchable on my 1080p screen.
> 
> As for anime playback:
> Lazy option: install http://haruhichan.com/forum/showthread.php?7545-KCP-Kawaii-Codec-Pack
> Works great, just choose highest and then disable the options under "trade quality for performance" and enable smooth motion.
> 
> Better option: http://myanimelist.net/forum/?topicid=516729
> A few of the components have been upgraded recently (notably madvr). Install them yourself and you get the newer versions.
> 
> Either way, enable smooth motion and disable all options under "trade quality for performance" in madvr settings.
> 
> Try out the stuff I mentioned, then see how much better SVP is. I'd be very interested to hear your results.
> Hulustar is very reputable. I emailed him about his fantastic event monitors - 0 to 2 defective pixels - and he said that there are no defects near center of the screen. If they are still available then these are good value, and the ones I'd reccomend on price vs risk.


I followed that guide, my video freezes when I switch screens, any idea? (When I move the video from one monitor to the next)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I followed that guide, my video freezes when I switch screens, any idea? (When I move the video from one monitor to the next)


Madvr does not work on monitors in portrait. Also if one screen is on a given GPU and the other is on the motherboard or another GPU it can give you problems.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Madvr does not work on monitors in portrait. Also if one screen is on a given GPU and the other is on the motherboard or another GPU it can give you problems.


Well I don't watch videos on my portrait monitor. That seems dumb though, I don't see why screen orientation should make a difference. Maybe because it's not full screen?


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Madvr does not work on monitors in portrait. Also if one screen is on a given GPU and the other is on the motherboard or another GPU it can give you problems.


Its one videocard, and not sure what you mean by portrait, my monitors are set normally.


----------



## PomuM

How much would you guys recommend the Qnix monitor for strictly gaming on a 7950?

I don't know if its worth the extra $100. I can't find any good comparison videos for 1080 and 1440 when gaming.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PomuM*
> 
> How much would you guys recommend the Qnix monitor for strictly gaming on a 7950?
> 
> I don't know if its worth the extra $100. I can't find any good comparison videos for 1080 and 1440 when gaming.


What kind's of games are you playing? I was running x-fired 7870's and would get about 70 fps in bioshock infinite. I know a single 7950 is a pretty good gpu.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Madvr does not work on monitors in portrait. Also if one screen is on a given GPU and the other is on the motherboard or another GPU it can give you problems.
> 
> 
> 
> Its one videocard, and not sure what you mean by portrait, my monitors are set normally.
Click to expand...

Portrait means the monitors are turned 90 degrees. I have never had a dual monitor setup so I'm not sure what the problem is. If the monitors are the same I can only assume there's a bug somewhere that causes it to glitch. Otherwise madvr could get confused if resolution changes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PomuM*
> 
> How much would you guys recommend the Qnix monitor for strictly gaming on a 7950?
> 
> I don't know if its worth the extra $100. I can't find any good comparison videos for 1080 and 1440 when gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> What kind's of games are you playing? I was running x-fired 7870's and would get about 70 fps in bioshock infinite. I know a single 7950 is a pretty good gpu.
Click to expand...

Checking through reviews to see framerates off a single 7950, as long as you don't go for lots of AA and ultra settings you should get 30+ fps.
I'm not a gamer myself, but apparently the higher pixel density means you need much less AA. You should also consider lightboost monitors which have much less blur, and whether the extra quality of IPS color is worth it over TN.

If you're going IPS/PLS I think most would recommend the qnix, but it's more complicated if lightboost/very low lag means much to you.


----------



## PomuM

My second option is going to be a 23" 1080 IPS Monitor.

I'll be playing games like GW2 and LoL. Not extremely graphic intensive.

I'm sure my card can handle it.. But how much better does the 1440 look compared to something I mentioned above. Is it worth the extra $100?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Its one videocard, and not sure what you mean by portrait, my monitors are set normally.


Another potential issue is madvr does not support old mpeg2 content and it will only show a green or black screen. You also might want to check your LAV filter settings. Worst comes to worst just start deductive troubleshooting. Try using a different player to make sure it is MPC-HC. Try using EVR without the LAV filters to make sure it is madvr or the LAV filters doing it. There is a LOT of variables here that could be causing it.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PomuM*
> 
> My second option is going to be a 23" 1080 IPS Monitor.
> 
> I'll be playing games like GW2 and LoL. Not extremely graphic intensive.
> 
> I'm sure my card can handle it.. But how much better does the 1440 look compared to something I mentioned above. Is it worth the extra $100?


In that case you should be able to get very good framerates off your card.

Think of it this way: for $200 the IPS screen you get will not be the best. I was looking round for a cheap one and they all seem to have very aggressive AG coating, which leads to graininess. Some people care about this more than others. The matte PLS monitors are much lighter.
This PLS supposedly has better blacks and has 1.8 times more pixels. This means you see nearly twice as much, or the same in much better detail, it looks sharper due to tighter pixel pitch, and with less AA needed you get higher framerates. It also overclocks, though how much difference this will make to you I do not know since I don't know if you can exceed 60fps.
The only thing it does not have is a good warranty.

If you get a good Qnix it should undoubtedly be better, and I haven't heard many reports of these failing, but ultimately you have to decide if you game enough to justify the extra $100.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Another potential issue is madvr does not support old mpeg2 content and it will only show a green or black screen. You also might want to check your LAV filter settings. Worst comes to worst just start deductive troubleshooting. Try using a different player to make sure it is MPC-HC. Try using EVR without the LAV filters to make sure it is madvr or the LAV filters doing it. There is a LOT of variables here that could be causing it.


So if you do have old mpeg2 files you want to watch you have to disable madvr?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> So if you do have old mpeg2 files you want to watch you have to disable madvr?


That is one way of doing it. You could also just have 2 media players installed with one not using madvr. Or you could just convert the old files to a new format(which will reduce quality slightly since you are re-encoding).


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PomuM*
> 
> My second option is going to be a 23" 1080 IPS Monitor.
> 
> I'll be playing games like GW2 and LoL. Not extremely graphic intensive.
> 
> I'm sure my card can handle it.. But how much better does the 1440 look compared to something I mentioned above. Is it worth the extra $100?


League looks so much better to me, esp if you oc the monitor. I was taken aback by the loading screen the first time I saw in on the qnix.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PomuM*
> 
> My second option is going to be a 23" 1080 IPS Monitor.
> 
> I'll be playing games like GW2 and LoL. Not extremely graphic intensive.
> 
> I'm sure my card can handle it.. But how much better does the 1440 look compared to something I mentioned above. Is it worth the extra $100?


23" 1080p = Display size: 20.05" × 11.28" (50.92cm × 28.64cm) = 95.78 PPI, 0.2652mm dot pitch, 9174 PPI²

27" 1440p = Display size: 23.53" × 13.24" (59.77cm × 33.62cm) = 108.79 PPI, 0.2335mm dot pitch, 11834 PPI²

You include the refresh rate difference and you have a big difference. And this is just from the information you have provided.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Another potential issue is madvr does not support old mpeg2 content and it will only show a green or black screen. You also might want to check your LAV filter settings. Worst comes to worst just start deductive troubleshooting. Try using a different player to make sure it is MPC-HC. Try using EVR without the LAV filters to make sure it is madvr or the LAV filters doing it. There is a LOT of variables here that could be causing it.


Thanks for the info.

Seems to have been a fluke, seems to be working fine now lol


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Here's a good view/angle of the Gateway stand I should have thought to take the first time:


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Seems to have been a fluke, seems to be working fine now lol


I have spent WAY too much time messing around with madvr, filters and renderers. I can definitely say i have seen lots of flukes and sometimes you just have to mess around with it.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have spent WAY too much time messing around with madvr, filters and renderers. I can definitely say i have seen lots of flukes and sometimes you just have to mess around with it.


Le sigh I HATE messing around with filters and settings. Tried to follow instructions exactly on that website, but he is not clear on a lot of things, and now I have the dreaded green screen. Trying to reset everything and start over


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have spent WAY too much time messing around with madvr, filters and renderers. I can definitely say i have seen lots of flukes and sometimes you just have to mess around with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Le sigh I HATE messing around with filters and settings. Tried to follow instructions exactly on that website, but he is not clear on a lot of things, and now I have the dreaded green screen. Trying to reset everything and start over
Click to expand...

The only time I've ever had a green screen is the first time I came across 10bit video. I hacked ffdshow into WMP, and only later found MPC-HC and haven't looked back.

As long as you added the correct filters and set them to prefer, it should work. Avoid all hardware decoding and make sure no ffdshow. If you can't get it to work check all installed programs and get rid of any possibly conflicting codec packs, then try KCP.

Edit: can't remember if that guide supported full screen exclusive mode (in madvr), but you should turn that off. It changes the look of MPC and has an ugly transition.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Le sigh I HATE messing around with filters and settings. Tried to follow instructions exactly on that website, but he is not clear on a lot of things, and now I have the dreaded green screen. Trying to reset everything and start over


Here is a page in the madvr forum were madshi goes over the green screen problem and there is some possible fixes mentioned

http://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?p=1480241


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> The only time I've ever had a green screen is the first time I came across 10bit video. I hacked ffdshow into WMP, and only later found MPC-HC and haven't looked back.
> 
> As long as you added the correct filters and set them to prefer, it should work. Avoid all hardware decoding and make sure no ffdshow. If you can't get it to work check all installed programs and get rid of any possibly conflicting codec packs, then try KCP.


Agreed, if you have any hardware decoding profiles set that your system does not support(ie trying to use NVUID without nvidia) you will see all kinds of weird stuff. I am not sure but i think in the new versions it does not even let you do this on accident though, it greys out incompatible settings for hardware decoding.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> The only time I've ever had a green screen is the first time I came across 10bit video. I hacked ffdshow into WMP, and only later found MPC-HC and haven't looked back.
> 
> As long as you added the correct filters and set them to prefer, it should work. Avoid all hardware decoding and make sure no ffdshow. If you can't get it to work check all installed programs and get rid of any possibly conflicting codec packs, then try KCP.
> 
> Edit: can't remember if that guide supported full screen exclusive mode (in madvr), but you should turn that off. It changes the look of MPC and has an ugly transition.


It says svp needs ffdshow, so confused lol.

Ok got it to work! I'm not good with advanced settings dealing with filters. Just ended up using the defaults when installing. Smooth video looks awesome. Some stuttering and slight sync issues so still playing with settings.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> It says svp needs ffdshow, so confused lol.
> 
> Ok got it to work! I'm not good with advanced settings dealing with filters. Just ended up using the defaults when installing. Smooth video looks awesome. Some stuttering and slight sync issues so still playing with settings.


IIRC the guide had lots of pictures, and there weren't too many options. Just go for highest quality settings in everything, and ask if something doesn't make sense.
Did you set madvr's scaling algorithims correctly? Try an SD file with these set correctly and you'll be very pleased.

SVP does require a small part of ffdshow. But you need to make sure you've got your settings optimized before throwing in ffdshow and SVP.


----------



## brightbus

Hmm just green screen in 10 bit videos...researching.

Edit: fixed!


----------



## brightbus

proof positive of fps/hertz. simply amazing lol.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Hmm just green screen in 10 bit videos...researching.
> 
> Edit: fixed!


Glad to see it's working! Is there a noticable improvement?

And how are the stuttering/sync issues?

If it's all good, then you can mess it up again with the SVP and ffdshow









Edit: looks like you've already done that.
Did you need ffdshow for it to work?

Edit2: Can SVP utilise all 8 cores? I have 6 myself and hope they'll all get used for once.
And did you make the recommended changes for anime viewing?


----------



## brightbus

I made the recommended changes for anime and no more stuttering!

And yes, looks like svp utilizes all 8 cores


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I made the recommended changes for anime and no more stuttering!
> 
> And yes, looks like svp utilizes all 8 cores


Great post! Thanks for the heads up on this. Now with rendering on the GPU(wish SLI worked) and SVP on the processor i will be in business when i upgrade my system.


----------



## Moragg

That looks amazing







Can't wait to get home and have a go myself. So jealous right now, I only got my 15inch 4 year old laptop








If you put it back to normal settings, it'd be interesting to see what it does with Aku no Hana. It could make the rotoscoping much more smooth... maybe even watchable.

Did you need ffdshow in the end?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Great post! Thanks for the heads up on this. Now with rendering on the GPU(wish SLI worked) and SVP on the processor i will be in business when i upgrade my system.


Haha would be awesome if dual gpus worked having a 7990 and all. At least it uses multiple cores, very few programs use more than two.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> That looks amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to get home and have a go myself. So jealous right now, I only got my 15inch 4 year old laptop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you put it back to normal settings, it'd be interesting to see what it does with Aku no Hana. It could make the rotoscoping much more smooth... maybe even watchable.
> 
> Did you need ffdshow in the end?


I did have to use ffdshow. svp wouldn't work without it.

Took me awhile to find an anime I had in sd still lol. Steel angel Kurmi looked decent









If only this worked with youtube and netflix lol.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Great post! Thanks for the heads up on this. Now with rendering on the GPU(wish SLI worked) and SVP on the processor i will be in business when i upgrade my system.


No need to worry, madvr will run on max settings very easily. My HD7770 only gets to 50% on the really hard stuff. No SLI/CFX required.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> If only this worked with youtube and netflix lol.


It does work with youtube - http://www.svp-team.com/wiki/SVPtube
A bit of a roundabout solution but not too bad.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> No need to worry, madvr will run on max settings very easily. My HD7770 only gets to 50% on the really hard stuff. No SLI/CFX required.


Most of the time it is however The "Hobbit running 1080p->1440p @ 48FPS->120FPS @ 10bit" just kills my GTX570 and my quad core at 4GHz even without SVP. Everything else i have can least have MAX madvr but some of my Blueray content has trouble with SVP. A new gen gfx card should fix this though. Not sure what the difference between a GTX570 and a 7770 would be. When it comes down to it when i am watching a film i would like to use all my hardware to try and ge tthe best quality possible.

Also are you running jinc, spline or lanzcos? Jinc looks the best i think but it is a massive resource hog.

Really if we wanted to push the limits i could try running timescapes @ 1440p with SVP and see how that runs.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Also are you running jinc, spline or lanzcos? Jinc looks the best i think but it is a massive resource hog.


Pardon my ignorance, I don't know what any of those are.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Pardon my ignorance, I don't know what any of those are.


They are algorithms that madvr settings have available for upscaling/filtering videos. They each have there own unique form of improving video quality. Jinc is one of the better ones that takes lots of power to run. Access these by configuring madvr under render settings.

Stock madvr looks great but adjusted madvr looks awesome.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Most of the time it is however The "Hobbit running 1080p->1440p @ 48FPS->120FPS @ 10bit" just kills my GTX570 and my quad core at 4GHz even without SVP. Everything else i have can least have MAX madvr but some of my Blueray content has trouble with SVP. A new gen gfx card should fix this though. Not sure what the difference between a GTX570 and a 7770 would be. When it comes down to it when i am watching a film i would like to use all my hardware to try and ge tthe best quality possible.
> 
> Also are you running jinc, spline or lanzcos? Jinc looks the best i think but it is a massive resource hog.
> 
> Really if we wanted to push the limits i could try running timescapes @ 1440p with SVP and see how that runs.


Jinc, 3 taps, AR for upscaling
Catmull-Rom AR,LL for downscaling
^the best qualty settings

http://www.gpureview.com/show_cards.php?card1=675&card2=640
Your GTX570 beats mine everywhere. Good thing I only watch anime









After this discussion:
next time I see a HTPC build thread I will have to recommend a medium tower case with HD7970 minimum and 8 core overclocked AMD


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Jinc, 3 taps, AR for upscaling
> Catmull-Rom AR,LL for downscaling
> ^the best qualty settings
> 
> http://www.gpureview.com/show_cards.php?card1=675&card2=640
> Your GTX570 beats mine everywhere. Good thing I only watch anime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After this discussion:
> next time I see a HTPC build thread I will have to recommend a medium tower case with HD7970 minimum and 8 core overclocked AMD


madvr has been known to do anime better than live action so that is likely why you are beating me even though the 570 wins. I will have to try some anime of mine tonight to experiment. You have the same rendering settings as me but are you using smooth motion with SVP or just SVP?


----------



## dzap

theres svptube plugin









I have managed to get SVP working as well and even 1080p mkv videos with proper settings run flawlessly!


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> madvr has been known to do anime better than live action so that is likely why you are beating me even though the 570 wins. I will have to try some anime of mine tonight to experiment. You have the same rendering settings as me but are you using smooth motion with SVP or just SVP?


Movies I watch on the TV, with our 5.1 setup. So the only stuff I watch on my comp is anime - not really beating you, mine would die even earlier.

I have smooth motion enabled, but I only learnt about SVP a few hours ago. And I'm not home till Saturday - I haven't even seen my new 1440p monitor yet








The most intensive stuff I've tried is 1080p high bitrate anime - not much of a comparison to yours.
Once I get back I'll do dead pixel/BLB test, fixes if necessary, OC, then SVP. But this thread will be 30 pages longer and this discussion will be in the past, but I'll still post my results.

Also - smooth motion is the frame blending option from SVP but better. So use smooth motion but not the blending option in SVP.


----------



## arvidab

Anyone running this display on Linux with proprietary Nvidia drivers that can give me a few pointers? Running a 560Ti, Linux Mint 15 and Qnix.

I'm running one on Linux Mint 15 and tried a few different driver versions and methods of install but I just get caught in test mode kinda thing (endlessly cycle through colors and gradients). I think it doesn't recognize the monitor correctly as I can see it sets a resolution of 800x600 or 640x480 with a U2311H running as a main display. Can't change resolution to 2560x1440 in Nvidia-settings, tried adding it manually to _xorg.conf_ but that did nothing (or I did it the wrong way).

My Dell U2311H works as it should with Nvidia drivers installed, the Qnix worked with default Nouveau drivers (but could not get dual monitor working). Previous HD5450 had no problems using both my Qnix and Dell with default drivers.

Please help?


----------



## bmancreations

Another question that probably was answered a long while ago,

If I have this monitor (x-star) overclocked to 120hz, does that cause damage (kills monitor quicker) faster long term?


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Another question that probably was answered a long while ago,
> 
> If I have this monitor (x-star) overclocked to 120hz, does that cause damage (kills monitor quicker) faster long term?


No one can know for sure, but some people have had the yamakasis oced for almost a year now and no issues. But probably doesn't cause damage.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> does anyone know which file I should look for and where it is located as the refresh rates I used with EVGA Precision X pixel overclock have populated Windows drop down list uner advanced monitor options. I have refresh rates which didn't work and these show in games too. So unless I delete the file I cannot delete them from Windows and games.
> 
> thanks


someone?


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> No one can know for sure, but some people have had the yamakasis oced for almost a year now and no issues. But probably doesn't cause damage.


I guess it would be pointless to ask the same question when not overclocked? The longevity of these monitors? My old monitor is 4 years old. Hoping these can last that long.

Thanks.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I guess it would be pointless to ask the same question when not overclocked? The longevity of these monitors? My old monitor is 4 years old. Hoping these can last that long.
> 
> Thanks.


I don't think they've been out very long. But they use the same panels used in name brand items. I'd be more concerned about something like the power brick (easily replaced) going out, than the panel itself.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Movies I watch on the TV, with our 5.1 setup. So the only stuff I watch on my comp is anime - not really beating you, mine would die even earlier.
> 
> I have smooth motion enabled, but I only learnt about SVP a few hours ago. And I'm not home till Saturday - I haven't even seen my new 1440p monitor yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most intensive stuff I've tried is 1080p high bitrate anime - not much of a comparison to yours.
> Once I get back I'll do dead pixel/BLB test, fixes if necessary, OC, then SVP. But this thread will be 30 pages longer and this discussion will be in the past, but I'll still post my results.
> 
> Also - smooth motion is the frame blending option from SVP but better. So use smooth motion but not the blending option in SVP.


Great info thanks







I actually had both on the last time i tried it which explains a lot of the stuttering i was experiencing.

When you get your monitor setup i do recommend trying timescapes out with madvr + smooth motion + SVP + jinc4. It is the most beautiful video(PG LOL) i have ever seen. I am referring to the 1440p version.


----------



## bmancreations

Do you guys know how to remove the watermark?

I searched here but didn't find anything.

One more question, I didn't really understand, or the tutorial didn't really explain it. I am running at 120hz, if I update my video drivers, does that change? Do I have to do it each time?


----------



## brightbus

If you update video drivers, before you update you need to unpatch the driver and turn test mode off. install new driver, repatch driver and put test mode back on.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> If you update video drivers, before you update you need to unpatch the driver and turn test mode off. install new driver, repatch driver and put test mode back on.


ya I figured out this the hard way.. Lol


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> ya I figured out this the hard way.. Lol


As did I lol.


----------



## bmancreations

Thanks guys,

though, what about my first question? Watermark? lol


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gockelmax*
> 
> Guys I need a better DL-DVI cable I can only get to 116Hz with the stock cable.
> Can anyone of you tell me what the best cables are?
> 
> btw does anyone know a german shop for those cables?


I've ordered one from here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Monoprice-3ft-24AWG-CL2-Dual-Link-DVI-D-Cable-Black-/400480182265?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item5d3e7a9ff9

Seller is in Hamburg. HTH.


----------



## finalheaven

Man... I've been trying to return an item that Hulustar has agreed is defective... but for some reason its not working out...

Hulustar "supposedly" requested DHL to pick up my monitor but he's been saying that for a week... nothing yet....


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> If you update video drivers, before you update you need to unpatch the driver and turn test mode off. install new driver, repatch driver and put test mode back on.


I'm not 100% sure I did that last time (can't remember). Catalyst is still showing 120hz tho...









I *am* sure I didn't turn test mode off 'cos the watermark is still there (I don't mind it tbh so left it on)... or are you talking Nvidia only?

I want to install the latest beta drivers soon (13.6 I believe) but want to go about it correctly...

Could someone clarify the correct steps to take...?

Sorry if I'm being a bit dense


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> I'm not 100% sure I did that last time (can't remember). Catalyst is still showing 120hz tho...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I *am* sure I didn't turn test mode off 'cos the watermark is still there (I don't mind it tbh so left it on)... or are you talking Nvidia only?
> 
> I want to install the latest beta drivers soon (13.6 I believe) but want to go about it correctly...
> 
> Could someone clarify the correct steps to take...?
> 
> Sorry if I'm being a bit dense


You need to unpatch and turn off test mode. Restart and then uninstall drivers restart. Install new drivers restart. And then repatch and turn on test mode and restart..


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> You need to unpatch and turn off test mode. Restart and then uninstall drivers restart. Install new drivers restart. And then repatch and turn on test mode and restart..


Oh ok thanks









TBH I don't think I'll bother for the moment then, will wait for the next 'proper' release from AMD with some major fixes (hoping micro-stutter will be a priority)...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> Oh ok thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TBH I don't think I'll bother for the moment then, will wait for the next 'proper' release from AMD with some major fixes (hoping micro-stutter will be a priority)...


Those are supposed to be released in July from what I have read..


----------



## brightbus

I don't know about the watermark, doesn't bother me honestly.
Also like Onegun said, once you turn off test mode, the watermark doesn't disappear until you restart.

It's not that hard, just reverse order of what you did to patch.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I don't know about the watermark, doesn't bother me honestly.
> Also like Onegun said, once you turn off test mode, the watermark doesn't disappear until you restart.
> 
> It's not that hard, just reverse order of what you did to patch.


To remove the watermark try http://en.pudn.com/downloads331/sourcecode/windows/other/detail1454425_en.html


----------



## andygully

MY X-STAR
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/14/img0105td.jpg/

I have got around to doing the blb tape fix worked a charm thank you


----------



## Sannakji

I read the OP, very informative, thanks.

It sounds like the Qnix qx2710 is the one for me. Is there not a panel exactly like that with a HDMI though? I would just like to have that option.

The Qnix qx2710 has speakers right? I don't expect them to be good, I'll get on to buying a dedicated pair ASAP.

I have a glossy TV and hardly notice it even though its beside a window. So there's no point in going matte really is there, I'll just be losing image clarity right?


----------



## Crzybritfox

Yay i got my monitor today.

Set up was easy, minimum backlight bleed, no stuck or dead pixels i could not be happier.
And i got it up to 120hz no problems with the included cable ^-^


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> I read the OP, very informative, thanks.
> 
> It sounds like the Qnix qx2710 is the one for me. Is there not a panel exactly like that with a HDMI though? I would just like to have that option.
> 
> The Qnix qx2710 has speakers right? I don't expect them to be good, I'll get on to buying a dedicated pair ASAP.
> 
> I have a glossy TV and hardly notice it even though its beside a window. So there's no point in going matte really is there, I'll just be losing image clarity right?


I don't think there is a qnix that includes hdmi. There are other korean brands that do, however multiple inputs produce more lag I believe, don't know if that's important to you. Also don't know if you plan to overclock, overclocking models of other brands are much more expensive than the qnix/xstar.

It does have speakers. I have never used them on mine, but I hear that they are really really bad quality. Use headphones are a dedicated pair.

My glossy screens don't bother me, but they are highly reflective. It's all personal preference.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crzybritfox*
> 
> Yay i got my monitor today.
> 
> Set up was easy, minimum backlight bleed, no stuck or dead pixels i could not be happier.
> And i got it up to 120hz no problems with the included cable ^-^


Looks good! That other screen looks kind of small next to it lol.


----------



## Deluxe

So i've got mine from Hulustar today.
No dead pixels, but some bleeding in the left bottom corner.
Running it at 96 hz atm, I do notice ghosting in games..
Build quality is meh, and it seems there is half a cm of room between the frame and the screen in the bottom.
Overall i'm not disappointed because I knew not to expect the best.

I got really scared when I first attached the screen, I had already bought a dual-dvi cable and was gonna use that..
I got a messed up screen, I feared my screen was dead... Luckily the issue didn't arise when I attached the original cable


----------



## gockelmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> I've ordered one from here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Monoprice-3ft-24AWG-CL2-Dual-Link-DVI-D-Cable-Black-/400480182265?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item5d3e7a9ff9
> 
> Seller is in Hamburg. HTH.


Unfortunately that seller only sells to the UK







.
Is it important to have an awg 24 cable, or would an awg 28 do as well? (remember I want to reach 120Hz, stock cable does ~115Hz)
those 24awg cables seem to cost more than 80€ here in Germany.

btw. what does that CL2 stand for?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

There are no multi-input 1440P displays on the market that can go go higher than 60Hz as yet...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> I have got around to doing the blb tape fix worked a charm thank you


So you mean you took off the metal frame too?


----------



## Particle

I received a glossy X-Star DP2710 via FedEx on Friday. It didn't even take a week to get here once shipped. In any case it seems perfectly happy to run at 100 Hz, so that's pretty cool. I tried 10 Hz steps starting at 80 Hz and haven't tried higher than 100 Hz yet. I didn't think the difference would be so drastic, but motion feels entirely different at 100 Hz than it does at 60 Hz. When I turn in a game, I sort of motion blur into my new position instead of chopping to it which is much more akin to real life. It has actually made it hard to aim just like if I had changed mice, but I'll adjust.

---

One thing I've noticed is that this PLS screen is notably redder than the IPS screens I'm used to. It immediately reminded me of my old P-MVA monitor, though the PLS's redness is somewhere in the middle of the two.


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Le sigh I HATE messing around with filters and settings. Tried to follow instructions exactly on that website, but he is not clear on a lot of things, and now I have the dreaded green screen. Trying to reset everything and start over


Use this http://haruhichan.com/forum/showthread.php?7545-KCP-Kawaii-Codec-Pack

I spent a lot of time previously following guides on how to configure MPC, madVR, LAVFilters, etc... The above guide is a all-in-one installer with pre-configured settings you can choose from.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Use this http://haruhichan.com/forum/showthread.php?7545-KCP-Kawaii-Codec-Pack
> 
> I spent a lot of time previously following guides on how to configure MPC, madVR, LAVFilters, etc... The above guide is a all-in-one installer with pre-configured settings you can choose from.


Thanks! I got it working yesterday though. I would highly recommend everyone to svp if they watch local video on their computer. Almost a big a difference as going from sd to hd (for me anyway). Simply awesome, never realized how choppy video was/is lol. The bad part? Now I don't want to watch videos on other mediums lol.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> Use this http://haruhichan.com/forum/showthread.php?7545-KCP-Kawaii-Codec-Pack
> 
> I spent a lot of time previously following guides on how to configure MPC, madVR, LAVFilters, etc... The above guide is a all-in-one installer with pre-configured settings you can choose from.


I did suggest it as an option, but the guide I linked is better as KCP does not contain the latest updates, and the "highest" madvr settings require fixing anyway, and because SVP requires ffdshow's raw post-proccessing abilities we need to do our own tweaking.

I do use KCP on my laptop though as I can't be bothered to find the best settings, but I find it's generally better to do this stuff yourself so you know what's going on and can tweak it as desired. Not to mention your own work is much more satisfying


----------



## fagoatse

Don't bother with codec packs, just install everything separately(mpc-hc+lav filters [optionally: madvr, xy-vsfilter). Configuring madvr cannot be done automatically. If you dont want to fiddle around with settings you might as well grab this build of mpc-hc http://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=161047 and set the resizer to f.e lanczos2(or whatever looks best to you), choose a dithering pattern etc.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Thanks! I got it working yesterday though. I would highly recommend everyone to svp if they watch local video on their computer. Almost a big a difference as going from sd to hd (for me anyway). Simply awesome, never realized how choppy video was/is lol. The bad part? Now I don't want to watch videos on other mediums lol.


But don't some not like the "soap opera effect"? I guess this isn't really the thread for this discussion...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> But don't some not like the "soap opera effect"? I guess this isn't really the thread for this discussion...


I love soap opera's... Lol.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> But don't some not like the "soap opera effect"? I guess this isn't really the thread for this discussion...


The soap Opera effect is one of two things.

1. The SVP and smooth motion is not properly working so you get a smoothness that seems fake or is sort of jerky.
2. You have become addicted to a certain level of static or picture sliding in the video content you watch(very much the same as people who still want records over CDs.)

If done correctly you should get a comparable you the new Hobbit movie look and if you think that has the soap opera effect then you would fall into the second possibility


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> The soap Opera effect is one of two things.
> 
> 1. The SVP and smooth motion is not properly working so you get a smoothness that seems fake or is sort of jerky.
> 2. You have become addicted to a certain level of static or picture sliding in the video content you watch(very much the same as people who still want records over CDs.)
> 
> If done correctly you should get a comparable you the new Hobbit movie look and if you think that has the soap opera effect then you would fall into the second possibility


I watched The Hobbit in cinema and didn't really notice much difference.

I did watch SVP's example - a 24Hz made into 60Hz - and my first reaction is "wow how smooth and immersive" - second was "that's quite scary". And it is at first - but it is hypocritical of consumers to want higher res and pixel density but shy away from higher fps, which would be a massive improvement to our current situation (and the easiest to implement).

To any doubters I's say give it a month or two to give yourself time to adjust, then go back. At that point if you prefer 24fps there's little one can do about it, if you prefer 60fps welcome to the future.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I watched The Hobbit in cinema and didn't really notice much difference.
> 
> I did watch SVP's example - a 24Hz made into 60Hz - and my first reaction is "wow how smooth and immersive" - second was "that's quite scary". And it is at first - but it is hypocritical of consumers to want higher res and pixel density but shy away from higher fps, which would be a massive improvement to our current situation (and the easiest to implement).
> 
> To any doubters I's say give it a month or two to give yourself time to adjust, then go back. At that point if you prefer 24fps there's little one can do about it, if you prefer 60fps welcome to the future.


I could not have put it better


----------



## bmancreations

I don't know if I setup madVR right, I have smooth on, but my videos look pretty much the same. Of course they aren't the higest of quality, just regular HD tv rips.

None of my content looks like the hobbit.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I don't know if I setup madVR right, I have smooth on, but my videos look pretty much the same. Of course they aren't the higest of quality, just regular HD tv rips.
> 
> None of my content looks like the hobbit.


Smooth motion blends frames. What you want - for higher fps like the Hobbit - is the SmoothVideoProject (SVP) discussed earlier in this thread.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Smooth motion blends frames. What you want - for higher fps like the Hobbit - is the SmoothVideoProject (SVP) discussed earlier in this thread.


Exactly the expected outcome from having this on is a bit better clarity in parts of the video that are fast moving.


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gockelmax*
> 
> Unfortunately that seller only sells to the UK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Is it important to have an awg 24 cable, or would an awg 28 do as well? (remember I want to reach 120Hz, stock cable does ~115Hz)
> those 24awg cables seem to cost more than 80€ here in Germany.
> 
> btw. what does that CL2 stand for?


Hmm that's strange, why wouldn't he be able to post it in Germany? Sorry to hear that. Maybe it's worth contacting him to find out?

Cables are a bit hit and miss, some people gain a bit, others say it makes no difference. Bit hard to justify 80euros for a cable tbh... AWG24 is a lot thicker but the jury is still out as to whether it really makes a huge amount of difference to the output...

The one I linked to is only 3ft long too, which is quite limiting.

Don't worry about CL2 (it's not like RAM specs lol), just for building regs I think (ie it's safe to route within walls or something).


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Smooth motion blends frames. What you want - for higher fps like the Hobbit - is the SmoothVideoProject (SVP) discussed earlier in this thread.


I installed that, but it just says waiting for ffdshow, which I have installed..


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I installed that, but it just says waiting for ffdshow, which I have installed..


I'll assume you used Niyawa's guide which I linked.

Go to MPC-HC, then preferences > external filters

Add filters, then add ALL the ffdshow filters. Block every single one except for the RAW video filter which you set to prefer and try again.

Note: I am currently trying to fix a problem I have never seen before without a system I can install it on. Brightbus/Spartan (i think) might be able to offer better advice. I'm just going on what I've read.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I'll assume you used Niyawa's guide which I linked.
> 
> Go to MPC-HC, then preferences > external filters
> 
> Add filters, then add ALL the ffdshow filters. Block every single one except for the RAW video filter which you set to prefer and try again.
> 
> Note: I am currently trying to fix a problem I have never seen before without a system I can install it on. Brightbus/Spartan (i think) might be able to offer better advice. I'm just going on what I've read.


Yup, that was it. Thanks


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Yup, that was it. Thanks


Good to hear. How big a difference does SVP make?


----------



## bmancreations

Anyone know about artifacts.

I am not sure if that's even the right term. When I am watching video, sometimes off to the side, or random places, it gets weird looking lol. Not sure how to explain it, I am hoping someone just knows what I mean. It just does not seem smooth 100%, static like almost, broken glass. I might just be making the description worse, cause it's not really those, just very hard to explain.

Not talking about SVP, just in general.

I am not sure if it's the monitor, the video, or the player settings.

Anyone, or am I just crazy?

And SVP makes a huge difference, it's quite nice, if you like the look.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Anyone know about artifacts.
> 
> I am not sure if that's even the right term. When I am watching video, sometimes off to the side, or random places, it gets weird looking lol. Not sure how to explain it, I am hoping someone just knows what I mean. It just does not seem smooth 100%, static like almost, broken glass. I might just be making the description worse, cause it's not really those, just very hard to explain.
> 
> Not talking about SVP, just in general.
> 
> I am not sure if it's the monitor, the video, or the player settings.
> 
> Anyone, or am I just crazy?
> 
> And SVP makes a huge difference, it's quite nice, if you like the look.


Well typically artifacts appear when you have overclocked your GPU and it gets too hot.

This doesn't sound like your case tho.


----------



## Moragg

What kind of content do you see artifacts on? Normal movies/anime/both?

"Artifacts" can be caused by different stuff. Low bitrates can mean an encoder loses too much data, leading to weird effects. Some filters create haloing/ringing - where edges have a "shadow" near them. Oversharpening can create aliasing - the "step-like" effect on lines.

Don't think it falls under artifacts, but badning is also an issue (a lot in anime) where gradients aren't smooth and change abruptbly in different ares.
Also some videos have a few pixels of noise near the edges, but I doubt you are talking about that.

If there's a specific case you could screenshot I'll try and see what the problem is.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> What kind of content do you see artifacts on? Normal movies/anime/both?
> 
> "Artifacts" can be caused by different stuff. Low bitrates can mean an encoder loses too much data, leading to weird effects. Some filters create haloing/ringing - where edges have a "shadow" near them. Oversharpening can create aliasing - the "step-like" effect on lines.
> 
> Don't think it falls under artifacts, but badning is also an issue (a lot in anime) where gradients aren't smooth and change abruptbly in different ares.
> Also some videos have a few pixels of noise near the edges, but I doubt you are talking about that.
> 
> If there's a specific case you could screenshot I'll try and see what the problem is.


Yea I think Artifacts is wrong. The haloing/ringing/shadow sounds like it could be what I am talking about. All that, oversharpening, sounds all about right, but could be wrong.

Assuming that is it. How do I fix it? I see this mostly in normal movies.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Yea I think Artifacts is wrong. The haloing/ringing/shadow sounds like it could be what I am talking about. All that, oversharpening, sounds all about right, but could be wrong.
> 
> Assuming that is it. How do I fix it? I see this mostly in normal movies.


SVP can cause a kind of Shadowing or in-between junk when it sometimes in-correctly renders an in-between frame. You get this due to the algorithm used and that rendering new frames is not always perfect. This will happen any time you sort of upconvert the FPS of a film. In my experience it is not that you are doing it in real time or hardware performance either as it does the same thing if you use the software used with SVP to pre-render or upconvert the video to a higher framerate. This may be what you are seeing.

EDIT: there isn't really a way to fix it other than ther eis less with some renderers sometimes(possibly due to the renderer not being as good and there is a lower level or quality anyway so you don't see it as much). I have also noticed there is a bit less when re-encoding the video to the higher framerate rather than real time(it is not that much better or worth it in my opinion). You see it more in live action then in anime due to anime being a animation and thus easier to encode. A good example of this is Avatar looks great when they are on CGI parts but bad when they are live action even though it is a film and not anime.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> SVP can cause a kind of Shadowing or in-between junk when it sometimes in-correctly renders an in-between frame. You get this due to the algorithm used and that rendering new frames is not always perfect. This will happen any time you sort of upconvert the FPS of a film. In my experience it is not that you are doing it in real time or hardware performance either as it does the same thing if you use the software used with SVP to pre-render or upconvert the video to a higher framerate. This may be what you are seeing.


Does not happen only with SVP, though I think it is worse with it.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Does not happen only with SVP, though I think it is worse with it.


Then it could also be something wrong with your filters. i have not seen it as an issue yet with madvr settings but that too is always a possibility.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Yea I think Artifacts is wrong. The haloing/ringing/shadow sounds like it could be what I am talking about. All that, oversharpening, sounds all about right, but could be wrong.
> 
> Assuming that is it. How do I fix it? I see this mostly in normal movies.


If it's in normal movies I'd assume it's just low bitrates. Unfortunately there are no easy solutions. Different movies, and likely different scenes within the movies, will require different post-processing filters to fix this. Your best bet would be to rip to higher quality, but otherwise I can't think of anything.

Edit: madvr does have an anti-ringing feature where you select your scaling algorithims. Note that this will take more GPU power.

With SVP, it has to guess where everything is moving from and to. The algorithims involved are complex but far from perfect, and could result in slightly more artifacting as a result. Again, there is no magic pill, you'll have to decide if the higher fps is worth the slightly worse IQ.
Oh, and if there is artifacting in the source, these algorithims would end up exaggerating it when interpolating - which could be why it is worse with SVP.


----------



## bmancreations

Interesting, I think it's more a filter.

Because I have my 1.2GB average TV shows that seem fine, then I got my 10 to 20GB variable much higher bitrate movies that can have this issue. I will take a look around. It's not annoying, its not that crazy, but still.


----------



## ivoryg37

Just got my tracking from hulustar







, hopefully I get it Wednesday or maybe even tomorrow


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Interesting, I think it's more a filter.
> 
> Because I have my 1.2GB average TV shows that seem fine, then I got my 10 to 20GB variable much higher bitrate movies that can have this issue. I will take a look around. It's not annoying, its not that crazy, but still.


Try watching whatever it is at it's native resolution - not fullscreen. When upscaling 1080p content to 1440p that is a factor of 4/3 - stretching every 3 pixels into 4 pixels, which could also cause problems. See if watching with MPC-HC using 1080p of your screen helps.
By the same reasoning, 720p content supposedly upscales much better, possibly to the point where it looks better than a 1080p source.

If you have timescapes 1440p, you could always see if that has artifacting. Yes would imply a filter problem, no a source problem.
Also check under madvr's "trade quality for performance" tab that none are selected, and when playing back a file right-click and go to filters. Make sure the only ffdshow filter used is the raw video filter.

Finally: smoothing can hide source arifacts, but there is a trade off with sharpness.

/end infodump


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Try watching whatever it is at it's native resolution - not fullscreen. When upscaling 1080p content to 1440p that is a factor of 4/3 - stretching every 3 pixels into 4 pixels, which could also cause problems. See if watching with MPC-HC using 1080p of your screen helps.
> By the same reasoning, 720p content supposedly upscales much better, possibly to the point where it looks better than a 1080p source.
> 
> If you have timescapes 1440p, you could always see if that has artifacting. Yes would imply a filter problem, no a source problem.
> Also check under madvr's "trade quality for performance" tab that none are selected, and when playing back a file right-click and go to filters. Make sure the only ffdshow filter used is the raw video filter.
> 
> Finally: smoothing can hide source arifacts, but there is a trade off with sharpness.
> 
> /end infodump


What is timescapes, and where do I get it?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> What is timescapes, and where do I get it?


For the actual product
http://www.timescapes.org/products/default.aspx

Sample video(must watch in "original" resolution to get 1440p)





EDIT: Basically timescapes is a time video of extra fastr and extra slow content at extreme quality recording used for video software testing and editing. It is the most astoundingly quality video i have ever seen.


----------



## bmancreations

Thanks,

So I just watched a movie with SVP and it looks quite good. I changed some settings in madVR and the picture looks better, but it still happens. No biggy.

That SVP is for sure CPU intensive, I have a new 4770K Haswel and near the end of the film, big dance/party scene and it was skipping almost, only 5 seconds total out of the entire film, but interesting to note.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah but was that due to CPU load for sure?


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah but was that due to CPU load for sure?


Well the entire movie played perfect, and the end was the most active part of the film, so I think so, I could try to play it again and see if it does it, and watch the CPU usage this time.

*edit, so it maxed out at 72%, so I guess it was just a bad part of the encoding.

**Moved back down to 96hz, things seem better. Could a better cable help it at 120hz?


----------



## Mcdoom

Is it okay to leave the monitor overclocked all the time? Has anyone noticed any negative effects? Or should I just overclock it when gaming and reset it when I am browsing the internet and such


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mcdoom*
> 
> Is it okay to leave the monitor overclocked all the time? Has anyone noticed any negative effects? Or should I just overclock it when gaming and reset it when I am browsing the internet and such


I run 120hz 24/7 and the only hing i have noticed on occasion is a bit of burn in but it goes away after a short time(i have yet to have to use the black and white screen method to get rid of it)


----------



## Mcdoom

Okay, thanks








Also I have another question. Do you need to set the refresh rate in CRU and Windows? Or only in CRU? Because when I have the refresh rate set to 60 in windows and a 120hz profile for CRU, it seems like i can get 120hz in games but only 60 on the desktop. Am I actually only getting 60 without setting up the overclock in windows? Or is it 60hz for the desktop and 120hz for games?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mcdoom*
> 
> Okay, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I have another question. Do you need to set the refresh rate in CRU and Windows? Or only in CRU? Because when I have the refresh rate set to 60 in windows and a 120hz profile for CRU, it seems like i can get 120hz in games but only 60 on the desktop. Am I actually only getting 60 without setting up the overclock in windows? Or is it 60hz for the desktop and 120hz for games?


You have to set the refresh rate in you video card settings..By making a profile in Cru it only allows you to change to 120hz in your gpu settings.. If you have not changed it there then you have only been running 60hz..


----------



## Mcdoom

Okay great, thanks for the help


----------



## finalheaven

So although I'm planning to return my monitor (too much BLB - although I'm hoping to get a replacement) I decided to try o/cing. 120 got weird lines so I went to 110 but that got stuttering screens. Stuttering as in screen seems to jump when I ult tab from gaming. Although it doesn't do that while gaming or watching videos i decided to go to 96.

I find it ironic that even at 96 how much smoother things are but because of it I can notice more ghosting...


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I ordered _QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll 2560x1440 QHD PLS Panel Monitor Matte Screen_ on 20.5.2013 from *bigclothcraft* for $309.90
> + $40.00 shipping
> Communication was OK, he said, that he will send me the best monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to send it via EMS with value $185.
> 
> He sent it on 23.5. and on 24.5. was monitor in Czech republic and on the same date it was Handed over to Customs.
> I had to send them some documents and pay them for the Customs procedure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M G
> Post Car arrived on 30.5. and nobody told me how much I had to pay for customs and they didnt have my phone nubmer so I had to catch the car.
> I couldnt pay with credit card so I had to run to the ATM.
> Customs was $65.
> 
> Monitor is without dead pixels, only with some really small light bleeding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With stock cable i OCd it to 100hz without problems. With 120hz I had few blue lines, but it was running well. I have to buy better Dual-DVI cable.
> Total price was $436.


My monitor is running fine, still on 100Hz with GTX470, Dual Core OCd to 3,01GHz

Is there any chance, to connect PS3 via Dual DVI with some adapter?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> My monitor is running fine, still on 100Hz with GTX470, Dual Core OCd to 3,01GHz
> 
> Is there any chance, to connect PS3 via Dual DVI with some adapter?


These monitors are not HDCP compliant so the PS3 will not allow itself to be used on your QNix.

That said, a quick google search for "Bypass PS3 HDCP" got some results, you should have a look at those.

On the issue of adaptors: I've heard they are not good for OCing a monitor, but I doubt a PS3 could push out 120fps anyway.


----------



## Particle

I tried 115 Hz last night and it seemed to work. I added a 120 Hz option using the tool, but CCC doesn't show it as an option. I'm not sure what that is about.

Is anyone else having really fast burn-in with these PLS panels? I had a web browser open for probably an hour straight last night and as soon as I went to do something else (game), I noticed I could see the browser's title bar, address bar, and search bar superimposed over the image. It faded gradually.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> These monitors are not HDCP compliant so the PS3 will not allow itself to be used on your QNix.
> 
> That said, a quick google search for "Bypass PS3 HDCP" got some results, you should have a look at those.
> 
> On the issue of adaptors: I've heard they are not good for OCing a monitor, but I doubt a PS3 could push out 120fps anyway.


These monitors don't have a scaler. Shouldn't be able to connect anything but a graphics cards to these things.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> My monitor is running fine, still on 100Hz with GTX470, Dual Core OCd to 3,01GHz
> 
> Is there any chance, to connect PS3 via Dual DVI with some adapter?


Besides what people have already said, there are no commercially available HDMI -> DL-DVI adapters anyhow.

All those adapters/cables you see for <$10? They aren't HDMI -> DL-DVI adapters/cables. HDMI is not electrically compatible with DL-DVI.


----------



## ForceD

recently received 3 matte qnix

so far just checking for issues

display 1 - minor BLB on top, 1 dead pixel near bottom edge
display 2 - definite BLB top and bottom, no dead or bright pixels
display 3 - no BLB at all, pixel perfect too.

Will read up on overclocking to 96 or 120hz, and if I need to do anything with my sli titans. (hoping display 3 overclocks too)


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> I tried 115 Hz last night and it seemed to work. I added a 120 Hz option using the tool, but CCC doesn't show it as an option. I'm not sure what that is about.
> 
> Is anyone else having really fast burn-in with these PLS panels? I had a web browser open for probably an hour straight last night and as soon as I went to do something else (game), I noticed I could see the browser's title bar, address bar, and search bar superimposed over the image. It faded gradually.


Make sure you reboot in between.

Some are experiencing some "burn-in" but it disappears after some time and i'm pretty sure it isn't actually burn in. Personally i'm not having this issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> recently received 3 matte qnix
> 
> so far just checking for issues
> 
> display 1 - minor BLB on top, 1 dead pixel near bottom edge
> display 2 - definite BLB top and bottom, no dead or bright pixels
> display 3 - no BLB at all, pixel perfect too.
> 
> Will read up on overclocking to 96 or 120hz, and if I need to do anything with my sli titans. (hoping display 3 overclocks too)


Pictures!


----------



## Particle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Make sure you reboot in between.
> 
> Some are experiencing some "burn-in" but it disappears after some time and i'm pretty sure it isn't actually burn in. Personally i'm not having this issue.
> Pictures!


I suppose I should be more precise. I always assume that when I'm talking about LCDs people in turn assume that the persistent image isn't permanent like it used to be on CRTs.

As for the refresh rate, I did restart. After 120 didn't show up the first time, I even shut down entirely and started back up instead of doing a reboot. CCC just refuses to show it as an option for some reason.


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Pictures!


will do at some point, wanna test more, and overclock the hz.
Also considering debezeling all 3

Would love 3x portrait, but will probably stick with 3xlandscape, so I can still play the games that don't multimonitor well on just the middle screen, and comfortable watch videos on another. 3 portait is really good for web/code viewing, and certain games (skyrim comes to mind)

Definitely very happy with them, and hulustar. (so far anyways)


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> will do at some point, wanna test more, and overclock the hz.
> Also considering debezeling all 3
> 
> Would love 3x portrait, but will probably stick with 3xlandscape, so I can still play the games that don't multimonitor well on just the middle screen, and comfortable watch videos on another. 3 portait is really good for web/code viewing, and certain games (skyrim comes to mind)
> 
> Definitely very happy with them, and hulustar. (so far anyways)


Are you going to get a tri stand or run them all on seperate?

This is what my current setup. Sometimes I run the in 3x1 portrait eyefinity



I don't plan on debezeling though, not sure if I could get them to work with my awesome stand, would prob have to fab something.


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Are you going to get a tri stand or run them all on seperate?
> .


If I debezel to bare panel. I will fab something. (that will be a project in itself)

or I will leave the casing on, and just buy one of these for three horizontal http://www.wsgf.org/products/hd-triple-stand-xl

or just leave all three as is, with current crappy stock stand and all.

And I probably wont do a portrait, horizontal, portrait setup.. I figure my OCD will compel me to make it even.. all vertical or all horizontal, just doesn't feel right otherwise.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> If I debezel to bare panel. I will fab something. (that will be a project in itself)
> 
> or I will leave the casing on, and just buy one of these for three horizontal http://www.wsgf.org/products/hd-triple-stand-xl
> 
> or just leave all three as is, with current crappy stock stand and all.
> 
> And I probably wont do a portrait, horizontal, portrait setup.. I figure my OCD will compel me to make it even.. all vertical or all horizontal, just doesn't feel right otherwise.


Yup, something different for everyone. I love it all in portrait, but not so hot for videos. I don't really care for all landscape. I have to stretch too far to see all the screens lol. I like the php setup, but that's personel preference.

http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Monitor-Standing-Supports-002-0020/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370969968&sr=8-1&keywords=triple+monitor+stand This is the stand I have.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> does anyone know which file I should look for and where it is located as the refresh rates I used with EVGA Precision X pixel overclock have populated Windows drop down list uner advanced monitor options. I have refresh rates which didn't work and these show in games too. So unless I delete the file I cannot delete them from Windows and games.
> 
> thanks


so I take it nobody knows then


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> so I take it nobody knows then


I don't even know what you're asking. What "file" exactly?


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Monitor-Standing-Supports-002-0020/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370969968&sr=8-1&keywords=triple+monitor+stand This is the stand I have.


Interesting stand... nice price. Is it pretty stable? have you tried it with all 3 qnix's in landscape?


----------



## OneGun

Got my monoprice Dvi cable today.. It's as thick as a bike lock lol..


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I don't even know what you're asking. What "file" exactly?


As far as I understand, majnu has far too many custom resolutions when he wants to change them in a menu. So he wants to find the "file" where these are stored and trim them down to just the few custom resolutions which work and he wants.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh I see. Yeah less likely to get help here for PX as only a few use it; I would ask that on the EVGA forum.


----------



## bmancreations

So I am running a 1440P timescape video, am I suppose to be able to run SVP with it. It just says performance to low, try another profile.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> So I am running a 1440P timescape video, am I suppose to be able to run SVP with it. It just says performance to low, try another profile.


1440p is asking a little much with svp. I tried a random gameplay video I had at 1440p was too much for my machine.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> Interesting stand... nice price. Is it pretty stable? have you tried it with all 3 qnix's in landscape?


It will support 3 in landscape..just barely though



I didn't bother lining them and and adjusting to be perfect, as I only had them that way to take that picture. Also that was when I had it on a less than stable table.


----------



## ivoryg37

I'm curious would the Spyder4elite be able to calibrate the color on this if I overclock it to 120 and get darkening. I'm about to purchase it from amazon, what do you guys think?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah but as I've said before maybe $150 or whatever isn't a lot of cash to you but you really don't need your own calibrator unless you are doing some kind of color production work or are into high-end photography or something. If we could not use other's ICCs then that's different. Though it is always _ideal_ to make your own...but, again, far from mandatory for most users.

Calibrating yourself is more about what is *accurate* color-wise and that may not always look *best to you* in every scenario.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I'm curious would the Spyder4elite be able to calibrate the color on this if I overclock it to 120 and get darkening. I'm about to purchase it from amazon, what do you guys think?


It would, but I think you can just get the pro version and dl free software that'll give you all the features of the elite version - if you want to save some money. This software has a stepp learning curve though, whereas the Spyder's is very user-friendly.

As wrigley said it isn't a requirement and colours may look very cold and neutral at first, but if you have the money and it doesn't mean too much to you, then get it. If you are doing photography/video editing then it is a must buy, and you'll be recalibrating fairly frequently.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> I suppose I should be more precise. I always assume that when I'm talking about LCDs people in turn assume that the persistent image isn't permanent like it used to be on CRTs.
> 
> As for the refresh rate, I did restart. After 120 didn't show up the first time, I even shut down entirely and started back up instead of doing a reboot. CCC just refuses to show it as an option for some reason.


I also get this "burn-in" (broswer address bar etc.) very quickly even at 96Hz sometimes. It does disappear rather quickly so I´m not that worried about it, and it´s not bright enough to actually be really distracting.


----------



## andygully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> There are no multi-input 1440P displays on the market that can go go higher than 60Hz as yet...
> So you mean you took off the metal frame too?


Yes took metal frame off applied tape around the inside of the frame and also along the bottom and top of the panel itself and it virtually eliminated all the bleed.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I also get this "burn-in" (broswer address bar etc.) very quickly even at 96Hz sometimes. It does disappear rather quickly so I´m not that worried about it, and it´s not bright enough to actually be really distracting.


having burn in is just not worth it to me for smoother mouse movement lol..


----------



## specr1

Just a word of warning for anything trying to fix the BLB with the tapemod.

I cracked my screen. This is my first time doing something like this and I didn't realize how fragile these panels are.

So for the beginners, BE CAREFUL!

PS: the seller told me to open it up and fix it. Think I can get this under warranty since it was under their direction?


----------



## andygully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *specr1*
> 
> Just a word of warning for anything trying to fix the BLB with the tapemod.
> 
> I cracked my screen. This is my first time doing something like this and I didn't realize how fragile these panels are.
> 
> So for the beginners, BE CAREFUL!
> 
> PS: the seller told me to open it up and fix it. Think I can get this under warranty since it was under their direction?


Got to be worth asking?
I wouldn't try this if you are not confident enough. take your time getting the metal frame off and do not apply pressure to the panel directly just work around popping the tabs off there on all 4 sides so you need to remove the back shielding plate first


----------



## specr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> Got to be worth asking?
> I wouldn't try this if you are not confident enough. take your time getting the metal frame off and do not apply pressure to the panel directly just work around popping the tabs off there on all 4 sides so you need to remove the back shielding plate first


Yea, I'm pretty sure thats when the monitor cracked


----------



## ivoryg37

Man that was quick. I'm still at work currently but I checked my tracking and it delivered today! It shipped yesterday and estimate was the 12th so I'm surprised it came early!


----------



## KaiserFrederick

Well, I couldn't resist any longer, and overclocked my monitor to 96 hz yesterday. I only ran it at this refresh rate for about 5 mins, because I noticed that my power brick started to emit a high pitched whining noise, which went away when I dropped back down to 60 Hz. Have any of you guys experienced this whine?


----------



## ivoryg37

I finally got mine but my overclock is pretty lame. I tried to get to 120hz but get green artifacts then after I tried to lower it. I kept getting frozen screens for liek 3 seconds even back at stock. Had to restart the computer. Im try at 100 and see if it works.


----------



## ivoryg37

This monitor is definitely better than the monoprice one! I can tell the overclock is much smoother as well with the mouse movement at 96hz . Worth every penny, Looks like I might as well pick up another two before the price gets raised on these.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I finally got mine but my overclock is pretty lame. I tried to get to 120hz but get green artifacts then after I tried to lower it. I kept getting frozen screens for liek 3 seconds even back at stock. Had to restart the computer. Im try at 100 and see if it works.


Were you using the stock cables?


----------



## Hegro

Just got to thinking last night and I am wondering if anyone has an idea on this. I usually fall asleep to a movie playing on my computer. So my monitor gets left on all night. However it has no video or anything going to it because I usually put my computer on a 30 minute sleep timer. Will this effect the monitors longevity or have any negative side effects? Thanks

I have the X-Star. Great monitor!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Just got to thinking last night and I am wondering if anyone has an idea on this. I usually fall asleep to a movie playing on my computer. So my monitor gets left on all night. However it has no video or anything going to it because I usually put my computer on a 30 minute sleep timer. Will this effect the monitors longevity or have any negative side effects? Thanks
> 
> I have the X-Star. Great monitor!


I am going to speak for every company that does not have a mind to save money and electricity. NO


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Were you using the stock cables?


I was using a monoprice DVI-D wire I bought awhile back for my catleap. I can run it on 110 fine but I think I found the sweet spot of 96 for me. Its not too dark and the ICC profiles helped alot.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I was using a monoprice DVI-D wire I bought awhile back for my catleap. I can run it on 110 fine but I think I found the sweet spot of 96 for me. Its not too dark and the ICC profiles helped alot.


Sweet.. I am glad you got a good monitor..


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I finally got mine but my overclock is pretty lame. I tried to get to 120hz but get green artifacts then after I tried to lower it. I kept getting frozen screens for liek 3 seconds even back at stock. Had to restart the computer. Im try at 100 and see if it works.


100Hz is essentially 120Hz.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> 100Hz is essentially 120Hz.


^this. I'll be impressed if you could notice a difference.

I'd suggest dropping from 100Hz to 96Hz - it's better for video playback as most video is shot in 24fps and 24*4=96Hz, so playback is more smooth. It also reduces artifacting if you're using SVP to create some inbetween frames.


----------



## silverfox1

I recently sent the ebay-seller Greensum a question asking him the exact difference between his advertised listings below since both ads depict a tolerance description of dead pixels rather you purchase the " Perfect Pixel " or the cheaper one. Below is the reply i received from Greensum as others in the past may have also wanted to know.

1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11

2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

Reply Quote :

[ Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
First of all, we would like to say thank you for your interest. We will always make our best efforts to support you.

The cheaper one is not perfect pixel optioned. With Perfect pixel option, 0 dead pixel allowed. Normal one, up to 5 is acceptable.
Dark dot and stuck pixel are not considered as dead pixel. Bright dot only.
Dark dot : The pixel shows dark and cannot be found on Black background. If the dot show other colors, bright dot.

Hope the answer above helps you. We are looking forward to have a good business chance with you.
Thank you.

Best regards,
Green-Sum ]

I quess i decipher his response being if you purchase the " Perfect Pixel " the dead pixel tolerance factors would be the same as if the consumer buys a name brand monitor from any of the familiar online vendors here in the U.S.

I do appreciate the fact he does reply back and his english typing skills are very adequate.

Anyways just thought i would relay the reply so folks on the fence would know the difference between the two units he sells.

Regards,


----------



## Deluxe

I'm running mine at 99 Hz without using any of those test mode things.
When I try 100 Hz my screen goes black, should I use that test mode to get higher?
I'm already quite happy about 100 Hz though.

@above: I can recommend Hulustar, they had a 0-2 pixel warranty when I bought, I had no dead pixels though, paid $319 ex shipping/customs.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silverfox1*
> 
> I recently sent the ebay-seller Greensum a question asking him the exact difference between his advertised listings below since both ads depict a tolerance description of dead pixels rather you purchase the " Perfect Pixel " or the cheaper one. Below is the reply i received from Greensum as others in the past may have also wanted to know.
> 
> 1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11
> 
> 2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
> 
> Reply Quote :
> 
> [ Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
> First of all, we would like to say thank you for your interest. We will always make our best efforts to support you.
> 
> The cheaper one is not perfect pixel optioned. With Perfect pixel option, 0 dead pixel allowed. Normal one, up to 5 is acceptable.
> Dark dot and stuck pixel are not considered as dead pixel. Bright dot only.
> Dark dot : The pixel shows dark and cannot be found on Black background. If the dot show other colors, bright dot.
> 
> Hope the answer above helps you. We are looking forward to have a good business chance with you.
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Green-Sum ]
> 
> I quess i decipher his response being if you purchase the " Perfect Pixel " the dead pixel tolerance factors would be the same as if the consumer buys a name brand monitor from any of the familiar online vendors here in the U.S.
> 
> I do appreciate the fact he does reply back and his english typing skills are very adequate.
> 
> Anyways just thought i would relay the reply so folks on the fence would know the difference between the two units he sells.
> 
> Regards,


I got Pixel Perfect from green-sum. They were the same conditions you mentioned, but on request he agreed to make a guarantee of no more than 1 dark pixel - in line with other pixel perfect policies.

I wouldn't buy it without a guarantee on dark pixels, becuase he has "no standard on this". If there are too many (however he decides that) he asks his manufacturer, who decides if it is bad enough for a replacement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> I'm running mine at 99 Hz without using any of those test mode things.
> When I try 100 Hz my screen goes black, should I use that test mode to get higher?
> I'm already quite happy about 100 Hz though.
> 
> @above: I can recommend Hulustar, they had a 0-2 pixel warranty when I bought, I had no dead pixels though, paid $319 ex shipping/customs.


Try test mode, it's highly unlikely that an increase of 1Hz gives a black screen. Follow the instructions on the first post in this thread.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> I'm running mine at 99 Hz without using any of those test mode things.
> When I try 100 Hz my screen goes black, should I use that test mode to get higher?
> I'm already quite happy about 100 Hz though.
> 
> @above: I can recommend Hulustar, they had a 0-2 pixel warranty when I bought, I had no dead pixels though, paid $319 ex shipping/customs.


Test mode unlocks the patch that allows for >400mhz pixel clock limit - which happens to be about 99hz refresh rate. So yes, it is likely that with test mode and driver patching, you can go higher.


----------



## truvativ

Hey everyone.
Just got my X-Star on Monday and I've been playing around with it ever since so figured I'll throw in my experience with it and also ask for some help.

So first thing's first: The stock colors are not as nice as my Yamakasi Catleap but I prefer my 120hz overclock over the right colors. I'll try calibrating it eventually.
It overclocked to 120hz without effort!

Secondly: I am confirming some minor burn-in and screen darkening when overclocking.
I don't remember for how long my window was open but I can clearly see my Chrome's address bar with writing in it as well as some details from the white webpage I was visiting at that time when I have something dark open over that area (visible in black-grey only)
It's slowly going away with the trick that involves just leaving the screen white for some time though at least. Been about an hour of pure white screen and it's almost gone.
The screen darkening can be sort of fixed by turning screen brightest to the max and setting the gamma to 1.5 in CCC. But it is still noticeably darker in the top right corner of the screen and that I can't seem to fix no matter what I try.

Now for my problem: The X-star is my primary screen and I have my Yamakasi as my secondary screen. The problem is that the Yamakasi sometimes flickers and even gets randomly flashing green pixels everywhere. This only applies to the Yamakasi as a secondary screen and not when it is primary. Also it doesn't happen when crossfire is off (dual 6970s). I've tried alternating cables but no matter what combination it still happens once in a while.

I've minimized the issue by preventing my video cards from downclocking too far from their "load" clocks but it still flashes randomly every once in a while. Also I don't like how my idle temps have risen from 40*C to 55*C because of limits I've imposed on the downclocking.
I've even tried switching the two graphics cards to see if it was a port issue or something and it didn't change anything.
The only thing I haven't tried is changing the port order because my X-Star's 120hz option only shows up when it's in the primary port of my video card. If I plug my Yamakasi there I can't overclock my x-star to 120hz

This issue does not happen when I replace my Yamakasi with my old 24" 1080p monitor.
So it seems to be screen specific, but only when Crossfire is on. I've even tried using different crossfire bridges to no avail!
I've even tried 3 different driver versions.

Ugh I'm on the verge of just buying new video cards and going with Nvidia for less driver-related issues.
That or replacing my Yamakasi with another X-star to possibly rule out a "different screen-different timings" related issue.

Anyone have any ideas?

P.S. Also There seems to be a tiny hair under the LCD panel's glass.
There's no way in hell I'm going to be able to get that out is there?
luckily it's in the bottom right corner of my screen where the clock usually is and if I'm doing something fullscreen I wouldn't notice it anyways.


Edit: My setup:


----------



## andygully

Anyone used this stand and is it anygood?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truvativ*
> 
> Hey everyone.
> Just got my X-Star on Monday and I've been playing around with it ever since so figured I'll throw in my experience with it and also ask for some help.
> 
> So first thing's first: The stock colors are not as nice as my Yamakasi Catleap but I prefer my 120hz overclock over the right colors. I'll try calibrating it eventually.
> It overclocked to 120hz without effort!
> 
> Secondly: I am confirming some minor burn-in and screen darkening when overclocking.
> I don't remember for how long my window was open but I can clearly see my Chrome's address bar with writing in it as well as some details from the white webpage I was visiting at that time when I have something dark open over that area (visible in black-grey only)
> It's slowly going away with the trick that involves just leaving the screen white for some time though at least. Been about an hour of pure white screen and it's almost gone.
> The screen darkening can be sort of fixed by turning screen brightest to the max and setting the gamma to 1.5 in CCC. But it is still noticeably darker in the top right corner of the screen and that I can't seem to fix no matter what I try.
> 
> Now for my problem: The X-star is my primary screen and I have my Yamakasi as my secondary screen. The problem is that the Yamakasi sometimes flickers and even gets randomly flashing green pixels everywhere. This only applies to the Yamakasi as a secondary screen and not when it is primary. Also it doesn't happen when crossfire is off (dual 6970s). I've tried alternating cables but no matter what combination it still happens once in a while.
> 
> I've minimized the issue by preventing my video cards from downclocking too far from their "load" clocks but it still flashes randomly every once in a while. Also I don't like how my idle temps have risen from 40*C to 55*C because of limits I've imposed on the downclocking.
> I've even tried switching the two graphics cards to see if it was a port issue or something and it didn't change anything.
> The only thing I haven't tried is changing the port order because my X-Star's 120hz option only shows up when it's in the primary port of my video card. If I plug my Yamakasi there I can't overclock my x-star to 120hz
> 
> This issue does not happen when I replace my Yamakasi with my old 24" 1080p monitor.
> So it seems to be screen specific, but only when Crossfire is on. I've even tried using different crossfire bridges to no avail!
> I've even tried 3 different driver versions.
> 
> Ugh I'm on the verge of just buying new video cards and going with Nvidia for less driver-related issues.
> That or replacing my Yamakasi with another X-star to possibly rule out a "different screen-different timings" related issue.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas?
> 
> P.S. Also There seems to be a tiny hair under the LCD panel's glass.
> There's no way in hell I'm going to be able to get that out is there?
> luckily it's in the bottom right corner of my screen where the clock usually is and if I'm doing something fullscreen I wouldn't notice it anyways.
> 
> 
> Edit: My setup:


I like that one plus one setup, looks awesome!


----------



## truvativ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I like that one plus one setup, looks awesome!


Thanks. I had to do it that way because A) My desk is not wide enough and B) It's in my living room and having them set up horizontally would of made it awkward because It would essentially create a wall between my desk and my living room.
For those interested: Link to the mount on ebay can be found HERE
Also, this is the extent to which the top right corner is darker than the rest.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truvativ*
> 
> Thanks. I had to do it that way because A) My desk is not wide enough and B) It's in my living room and having them set up horizontally would of made it awkward because It would essentially create a wall between my desk and my living room.
> For those interested: Link to the mount on ebay can be found HERE
> Also, this is the extent to which the top right corner is darker than the rest.


Nice. Maybe I should have gone with 2 of these and had 4 monitors lol


----------



## truvativ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Nice. Maybe I should have gone with 2 of these and had 4 monitors lol


I think that would feel weird though because you'd have no "central" or primary monitor. Don't you think?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truvativ*
> 
> I think that would feel weird though because you'd have no "central" or primary monitor. Don't you think?


Solution: 6 monitors!







Bottom middle as primary.


----------



## brightbus

Yesss six monitors. haha, Maybe one day.


----------



## truvativ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Solution: 6 monitors!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bottom middle as primary.


I think i'll get two 4K displays before I get six 1440p displays hahaha.

EDIT: ****, after two hours of a white background the burn-in was going away but now after 5 minutes of studying I get this...

I took the picture at an angle so you could see it better.

This burn-in rate is insane!
I think I might contact the seller if this keeps up.
Even after downclocking it's still there.
It's only the top right of the screen that burns in where it's dimmer after overclocking.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truvativ*
> 
> I think i'll get two 4K displays before I get six 1440p displays hahaha.


Don't think i could look at that many things at once.

I'd be too busy crying at my bank balance anway. $10k for the 4K monitors, $4k for the Quad Titans, $2k for a powerful enough PC, $1k on the cooling setup, and $100k for power consumption


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So a guy on TPU who's unit craps out with gray lines and such after a period of time got a new PCB and power brick from red cap but neither solved the issue so now getting full refund and no shipping charges either. If it seems like you are getting the run around at first the seller is probably just trying to avoid a return at all costs which is a big hit and pain to them.


----------



## finalheaven

Anyone have trouble using flash with hardware acceleration on after overclocking?

Flash works fine if i disable hardware acceleration but the screen is all green if I enable it.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truvativ*
> 
> Thanks. I had to do it that way because A) My desk is not wide enough and B) It's in my living room and having them set up horizontally would of made it awkward because It would essentially create a wall between my desk and my living room.
> For those interested: Link to the mount on ebay can be found HERE
> Also, this is the extent to which the top right corner is darker than the rest.


I have this exact same issue where the top right is darker than the rest. It becomes more noticeable the higher I attempt to overclock.


----------



## truvativ

After two hours of running THIS My burn in seems to have gone away... Let's see how fast some other image burns in though. If this keeps up i'll be pissed haha.


----------



## hamzatm

You had burn in so bad it took 2 hours to get rid of it? What on earth


----------



## truvativ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> You had burn in so bad it took 2 hours to get rid of it? What on earth


Oh, no. I had class so I started it before I left and came home two hours later. I have no idea how long it took to get rid of it to be honest.

GRR. 20 minutes later and whatever windows I had open are already burning into my screen again... god damnit.
I think I'll contact the seller and get another one.


----------



## hamzatm

Well if you left it on the same stuff for 20 minutes its gna burn in, thats how mine was! it went away pretty quick though at wasnt too noticeable.


----------



## truvativ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Well if you left it on the same stuff for 20 minutes its gna burn in, thats how mine was! it went away pretty quick though at wasnt too noticeable.


That's not normal though.
Never happened to me with any screen before and I've left some images on for hours on end, sometimes even days.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truvativ*
> 
> That's not normal though.
> Never happened to me with any screen before and I've left some images on for hours on end, sometimes even days.


Does it do it when left at 60 hz These can overclock, but aren't guaranteed to do so.

Weird, I've had some image retention, but nothingt that bad, and only on one monitor. My secondary and third monitor have static images all the time and no burn in, then again those aren't ocd.


----------



## OneGun

Is this happening at 60hz?


----------



## truvativ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Is this happening at 60hz?


I just downclocked. I'll test it out.
The burn in is still apparent at 60hz but I don't know if the burn in will actually happen at 60Hz.


----------



## OneGun

I just don't see the benefit of running over 60hz 24/7.. I will deal with a not so smooth mouse movement to not have all these issues..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I just don't see the benefit of running over 60hz 24/7.. I will deal with a not so smooth mouse movement to not have all these issues..


I've been running my main at 120hz 24/7, Initially minor retention, none now, or the past fee weeks.


----------



## truvativ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I've been running my main at 120hz 24/7, Initially minor retention, none now, or the past fee weeks.


I'm jelly. I've had this screen for 3 days now though. Think it might stop "burning in" or would it just get worse?
Burning in doesn't seem to happen at 60Hz. sigh.
Also now that I've experience the smoother window dragging and mouse movements I don't want to go back to 60hz for desktop haha.


----------



## brightbus

it should stay, its not burn in like you would experience with a crt persay. I'd just monitor it (huehue pun intended). Alot of people run 60hz for desktop and 120 for games.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truvativ*
> 
> I'm jelly. I've had this screen for 3 days now though. Think it might stop "burning in" or would it just get worse?
> Burning in doesn't seem to happen at 60Hz. sigh.
> Also now that I've experience the smoother window dragging and mouse movements I don't want to go back to 60hz for desktop haha.


Who did you purchase it from? Return shipping is pretty expensive and generally not covered by the seller.

As far as burn-ins and dimming of the monitor when overclocking, I think it happens to most if not everyone who overclocks.


----------



## truvativ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Who did you purchase it from? Return shipping is pretty expensive and generally not covered by the seller.
> 
> As far as burn-ins and dimming of the monitor when overclocking, I think it happens to most if not everyone who overclocks.


Hmm.
It doesn't seem to burn in at 60hz so perhaps I'll just buy another one and if that other one doesn't burn in i'll sell this one locally to someone that doesn't care/doesn't know about overclocking


----------



## brightbus

so off topic, found out my laptop can overclock to 120 hz







Guessing because it has 3d built in (which I never use, just happens to have it )


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truvativ*
> 
> Hmm.
> It doesn't seem to burn in at 60hz so perhaps I'll just buy another one and if that other one doesn't burn in i'll sell this one locally to someone that doesn't care/doesn't know about overclocking


They all burn in when OCed.. You are trying to get rid of something they all do when OCed..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> They all burn in when OCed.. You are trying to get rid of something they all do when OCed..


I guess its common, mine has none right now, and is usually on 24/7 at 120


----------



## Spartan F8

I no longer have seen any burn-in after owning mine for a few months. When i did a would set the whole screen white for 30 seconds and then black for 30 seconds. This is all instances would make the burn-in go away. This is more color retention than burn-in as it easily goes away and there has been no permanent effects reported at all(yet).

If you want some piece of mind set a short screen saver and always do the black and white screen trick when you see it
If you are worried stick with 60hz for normal use.
If you are paranoid stick with 60hz period, 300 for a 1440p PLS display is still very good
If the above is not good enough for you you may have not wanted to buy a korean display LOL JK

Personally i think it is a perfectly fine trade-off (especially since i no longer see it at all).


----------



## bmancreations

What's the cheapest desk mount that could mount 2 of these monitors (xstar)?

Hoping to find something in Canada, any ideas? Would need to be able to mount a different 24" as well temporarily.


----------



## Koehler

I have never experienced any burn-in on my CrossOver 27Q LED.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> I have never experienced any burn-in on my CrossOver 27Q LED.


Is it running at 120hz?Cause this only happens to ours at 120hz and according to your forum home page the Crossover don't go past 60hz lol..


----------



## CATACLYSMMM

I'm considering one of these or the Dell 2713HM to pair with my Dell U2412M. Which would you recommend and why? Also, matte or glossy? I'm in a web design program and the color inaccuracy of my old ASUS TN panel as the secondary is just dreadful. Only game I usually play is CS:GO and I'm currently playing it on my U2412M.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CATACLYSMMM*
> 
> I'm considering one of these or the Dell 2713HM to pair with my Dell U2412M. Which would you recommend and why? Also, matte or glossy? I'm in a web design program and the color inaccuracy of my old ASUS TN panel as the secondary is just dreadful. Only game I usually play is CS:GO and I'm currently playing it on my U2412M.


You will get more accurate colors out the box with the dell...And for truer colors i find glossy is the way to go for sure..If you will be using for gaming and your GPU can push 120fps then i would go with a glossy qnix..


----------



## dzap

mine has showed no burn-in so far even when OCed. Thought only 6 days on my desk.


----------



## CATACLYSMMM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> You will get more accurate colors out the box with the dell...And for truer colors i find glossy is the way to go for sure..If you will be using for gaming and your GPU can push 120fps then i would go with a glossy qnix..


Primary use would be for the Adobe Creative Suite. Second use would be for Counterstrike:GO. Obviously the price difference comes into consideration, but if the colors or reliability on the QNIX would be that much worse than the Dell, I will pay the extra money. What does everyone think about my situation in particular?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CATACLYSMMM*
> 
> Primary use would be for the Adobe Creative Suite. Second use would be for Counterstrike:GO. Obviously the price difference comes into consideration, but if the colors or reliability on the QNIX would be that much worse than the Dell, I will pay the extra money. What does everyone think about my situation in particular?


If your work is colour-critical then you'll be calibrating your monitor fairly often anyway so won't have to worry about the QNIX's colours.

If you can afford it the U2713H might be a better alternative than the U2713HM for Adobe CS work as it is wide gamut.

Dell also has a vastly superior warranty and have their very good 0 dead/bright pixel policy, so you are guaranteed an A+ panel. Also have much better quality stands and less backlight bleed.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CATACLYSMMM*
> 
> Primary use would be for the Adobe Creative Suite. Second use would be for Counterstrike:GO. Obviously the price difference comes into consideration, but if the colors or reliability on the QNIX would be that much worse than the Dell, I will pay the extra money. What does everyone think about my situation in particular?


If its primary for work then go for the dell. Don't cheap out on work equipment.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I have yet to notice any burn in either at any Hz.


----------



## CATACLYSMMM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> If your work is colour-critical then you'll be calibrating your monitor fairly often anyway so won't have to worry about the QNIX's colours.
> 
> If you can afford it the U2713H might be a better alternative than the U2713HM for Adobe CS work as it is wide gamut.
> 
> Dell also has a vastly superior warranty and have their very good 0 dead/bright pixel policy, so you are guaranteed an A+ panel. Also have much better quality stands and less backlight bleed.


Moragg - I don't have the tools to calibrate, so out of the box performance is important. The U2713H's wide gamut is only taken advantage of by a FirePro or Quadro type card and I have a GTX 670, so that's not a big issue. I'm not an ultra professional here, more of a Marketing/PR professional where design is part of the workload. I just want something on par with my U2412M, not looking for the ultimate perfection.

Does anyone have any experience with the Dell outlet for monitors (saw a deal on there for $440 + tax for a U2713HM)? Price is an issue, so I'm considering all of my options. The higher hz and $290 price tag on the QNIX are appealing, but the lack of ports and reliability (both color and longevity) worry me.

Has anyone heard if the backlight issues on the U2713HM have been figured out yet?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cash may be an issue but you really can't do proper color-critical work without a calibrator tool, man. Whether you need "perfection" or not. It will bite you in the ass eventually.


----------



## CATACLYSMMM

I hear you wrigley, and that might be something I consider going forward. What's your opinion on the QX2710 vs. U2713HM in general?


----------



## majnu

New stand







Has tilt, height adjust and 180 degree rotate, but because of how my monitor sits snug within my desk I'll never use them features. Shown at lowest setting and more than anything it is sturdy but because of the cheap plastics on the QNIX it still will shake, but not wobble the monitor like with the OEM stand.


----------



## Deluxe

Nice, I have a stand on the way also.. Is it easy to remove the default stand?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Nice, I have a stand on the way also.. Is it easy to remove the default stand?


Not too hard. You have to open up the bezel to take the stub off.


----------



## Deluxe

Alright, I want to open it up anyway to try that BLB fix, i'm just a bit of a noob with opening up screens.


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truvativ*
> 
> That's not normal though.
> Never happened to me with any screen before and I've left some images on for hours on end, sometimes even days.


It's normal for these. Your screen is probably the same as everyone else's


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CATACLYSMMM*
> 
> I hear you wrigley, and that might be something I consider going forward. What's your opinion on the QX2710 vs. U2713HM in general?


I can't say as the Dells have always been out of my personal "budget" for what is essentially just an entertainment device at home and I have only dealt professionally with Eizo, NEC and Apple dispalys at work. You can get a used calibrator for like $50 even. PM me and we can talk more if you'd like.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Nice, I have a stand on the way also.. Is it easy to remove the default stand?


Yeah not too hard at all. Only the top tabs holding the front and back bezels pieces together gave me any trouble at all. One the front bezel frame is off you can see the screws holding in the stock stem right there. Though you do need to lift the panel slightly (you will see the metal unsecured tabs holding it in on the sides) and if you don't have an angled or stubby screwdriver you will need to lift it higher and thus disconnect some wires. But if you really want to fix your BLB too then you gotta do that anyway cause the metal frame on the panel has to come off too (thats what you tape; itself and under). Very delicate work and I am glad I didn't need to do that just for stand removal *just in case* (I'm less confident working with my hands than the average person on this forum probably)...aaand that was before some other dude cracked his screen. Not trying to scare you off though; plenty of folks have done it here without issues. Just be careful (obviously).


----------



## kevinsun80

I just received my Qnix monitor and I have the same issue with flash and green screen after overclocking. Is anyone else aware of this issue?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsun80*
> 
> I just received my Qnix monitor and I have the same issue with flash and green screen after overclocking. Is anyone else aware of this issue?


What oc hz are you trying?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsun80*
> 
> I just received my Qnix monitor and I have the same issue with flash and green screen after overclocking. Is anyone else aware of this issue?


Its the patcher that does it. Apparently the patcher that allows the pixel o/c breaks HDCP. You can disable hardware acceleration and flash will still work. Not sure if there will ever be a work around other than disabling hardware acceleration.


----------



## kevinsun80

I'm using 120hz oc, I switched to dxva2 native which seems to fix things, however there are a lot of delayed frames and a couple of dropped frames every minute. Any suggestions as to fixing this? (I tried using SVP but it made things way worse).

*EDIT: For some reason the video was 12bit so other videos run fine*

Great monitor!









How do you change settings in CRU to LCD reduced? Everytime I click it and hit okay, it doesn't seem to change anything. Reason I'm asking is that I'm getting some green lines across teh screen when watching 720p movies.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsun80*
> 
> I'm using 120hz oc, I switched to dxva2 native which seems to fix things, however there are a lot of delayed frames and a couple of dropped frames every minute. Any suggestions as to fixing this? (I tried using SVP but it made things way worse).
> 
> *EDIT: For some reason the video was 12bit so other videos run fine*
> 
> Great monitor!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you change settings in CRU to LCD reduced? Everytime I click it and hit okay, it doesn't seem to change anything. Reason I'm asking is that I'm getting some green lines across teh screen when watching 720p movies.


You probably already have it set to LCD reduced. Only thing that seems to change is the pixel clock. Change it back and forth from LCD standard and reduced and you'll see the pixel clock go up or down.

Not all these monitors will do 120hz without those lines.


----------



## kevinsun80

Understood. Got it working at 96hz, very nice indeed.


----------



## CATACLYSMMM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I can't say as the Dells have always been out of my personal "budget" for what is essentially just an entertainment device at home and I have only dealt professionally with Eizo, NEC and Apple dispalys at work. You can get a used calibrator for like $50 even. PM me and we can talk more if you'd like.
> Yeah not too hard at all. Only the top tabs holding the front and back bezels pieces together gave me any trouble at all. One the front bezel frame is off you can see the screws holding in the stock stem right there. Though you do need to lift the panel slightly (you will see the metal unsecured tabs holding it in on the sides) and if you don't have an angled or stubby screwdriver you will need to lift it higher and thus disconnect some wires. But if you really want to fix your BLB too then you gotta do that anyway cause the metal frame on the panel has to come off too (thats what you tape; itself and under). Very delicate work and I am glad I didn't need to do that just for stand removal *just in case* (I'm less confident working with my hands than the average person on this forum probably)...aaand that was before some other dude cracked his screen. Not trying to scare you off though; plenty of folks have done it here without issues. Just be careful (obviously).


Thanks for the help Wrigley! I ended up getting the U2713HM with Soundbar for $550 shipped from Dell. I could have gone with the QNIX for $290, but I felt like Dell's warranty + extra inputs was well worth the cost since I have an Xbox 360.


----------



## ForceD

So updates.. one of my 2710's can overclock to 120 (some scanlines duing gameplay, but does 115 comfortable), other does 125 no problem, other does 120 no problem. All dim slightly at the higher refresh rates. Personally I am gonna stick with 96hz across the board, as dimming is nearly non-existent and looks great.

Now questions about triple screen and SLI and win 8.

So it seems the only was to use my 2x titan sli with 3 monitors running, is to use nvidia surround. However in surround windows 8 sees it as one giant screen, and spans the taskbar across all 3 screens, and when maximizing windows it does the same. (apparently this is a driver issue, as people report on nvidia forms that win 7 has this fixed)

If I don't use surround, enable all displays will do the taskbar and maximize correctly per screen, but for some dumb reason it doesn't allow sli for max performance in games.

If i want sli, I can select max performance, but then can only run up to 2 displays, as it disables one.

Does anyone with triple setups have any input or suggestions?


----------



## Koehler

The user says that he gets no input lag on the QNIX 2710.


----------



## monkeys

Is the Qnix using the same panel as the Samsung S27B970D, the innerts looks remarkably similar when dismantled by TFT central as shown by the link below.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/samsung_s27b970d.htm
'The stickers on the panel as shown above confirm it is using the LTM270DL02 panel and it looks as though this is classified as the 201 revision from what we can tell. This would suggest some minor changes since the panel used in the S27A850D which would fit in with differences to the specs of the two models.' from TFT.

I have been running mine for 2 weeks and v happy with it, no dead pixels, barely any blacklight althought took it apart to straighten frame.
Just ordered another...


----------



## monkeys

Is the Qnix using the same panel as the Samsung S27B970D, the innerts looks remarkably similar when dismantled by TFT central as shown by the link below.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/samsung_s27b970d.htm
'The stickers on the panel as shown above confirm it is using the LTM270DL02 panel and it looks as though this is classified as the 201 revision from what we can tell. This would suggest some minor changes since the panel used in the S27A850D which would fit in with differences to the specs of the two models.' from TFT.

I have been running mine for 2 weeks and v happy with it, no dead pixels, barely any blacklight althought took it apart to straighten frame.
Just ordered another...


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CATACLYSMMM*
> 
> Thanks for the help Wrigley! I ended up getting the U2713HM with Soundbar for $550 shipped from Dell. I could have gone with the QNIX for $290, but I felt like Dell's warranty + extra inputs was well worth the cost since I have an Xbox 360.


I was thinking the same andI almost bought the Dell but the last 3 purchases prior to me deciding had bad backlights so that they had to be returned. That put me off Dell despite the good returns policy. Yours sounds like a good example. Do they have Scalars built in for your xbox?

Had me revisiting the Koreans having set a budget with the Dells at the top end.
Thought I will try one, Zero dead pixels and virtually nil/undetectable back light, better than my non pls panel , can just about detectable in total darkness. Backlight undetectable in normal use or a dim room even.
Build quality is poor as I had to straighten the frame slightly but apart from that, superb. Only criticism is that pixel is a touch small but that is in the domain of 2560x1600 and currently only ccl lighting available.
Picture quality impresses. Just ordered a second Qnix one after 2 wk's usage. Just hope they are reliable over the long term.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Is the Qnix using the same panel as the Samsung S27B970D, the innerts looks remarkably similar when dismantled by TFT central as shown by the link below.
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/samsung_s27b970d.htm
> 'The stickers on the panel as shown above confirm it is using the LTM270DL02 panel and it looks as though this is classified as the 201 revision from what we can tell. This would suggest some minor changes since the panel used in the S27A850D which would fit in with differences to the specs of the two models.' from TFT.
> 
> I have been running mine for 2 weeks and v happy with it, no dead pixels, barely any blacklight althought took it apart to straighten frame.
> Just ordered another...


Nobody knows unless someone can actually compare the insides of both monitors.

I've seen the Samsung S27B970D and compared it to my CrossOver 27Q LED and I did notice that the PLS had more saturated colors and the blacks were deeper which is an indication that it has higher contrast.


----------



## monkeys

Samsung from the picture and Qnix looked remarkably alike when I had mine apart.
No backlight bleed on mine, black is dark.Does anyone know if the Qnix is PWM lit LED or not?

CrossOver being IPS I presume, be interesting to do a like for like comparison, between all the different monitors Korean and non-Korean manufactures, IPS and PLS. Too many are biased or not like for like.


----------



## King4x4

Most likely it is not.

In other news, Just ordered 12 X-Stars from Dream-Seller. Lets see how it goes!


----------



## Deluxe

Hah, what are you going to do with 12 of them?


----------



## monkeys

LOL he can replace the windows in his house, cool!

Sunny days when he wants, Sun lit by Samsung


----------



## King4x4

For a few friends.


----------



## monkeys

Can I be you be your friend?


----------



## King4x4

They paying a service to buy them


----------



## Paps.pt

I´ve been using SVP for a while now, to watch my 720p and 1080p movies in 120 FPS on my 720p Benq 720p 120Hz projector...but I havent seen any real 1440p movie yet, even in 24 FPS...can someone please tell me where I can get some?

Thanks


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I´ve been using SVP for a while now, to watch my 720p and 1080p movies in 120 FPS on my 720p Benq 720p 120Hz projector...but I havent seen any real 1440p movie yet, even in 24 FPS...can someone please tell me where I can get some?
> 
> Thanks


Only one i know of is timescapes at 1440p. Google it and you will find it immediately


----------



## CATACLYSMMM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> I was thinking the same andI almost bought the Dell but the last 3 purchases prior to me deciding had bad backlights so that they had to be returned. That put me off Dell despite the good returns policy. Yours sounds like a good example. Do they have Scalars built in for your xbox?
> 
> Had me revisiting the Koreans having set a budget with the Dells at the top end.
> Thought I will try one, Zero dead pixels and virtually nil/undetectable back light, better than my non pls panel , can just about detectable in total darkness. Backlight undetectable in normal use or a dim room even.
> Build quality is poor as I had to straighten the frame slightly but apart from that, superb. Only criticism is that pixel is a touch small but that is in the domain of 2560x1600 and currently only ccl lighting available.
> Picture quality impresses. Just ordered a second Qnix one after 2 wk's usage. Just hope they are reliable over the long term.


Yeah, they have the scalars, USB 3.0 hub, and pre-calibration built in and all of those features were important to me. Not to mention I already have a U2412M and am quite happy with it. I almost pulled the trigger on a Korean last year since the U2711 had heavy AG and less ports, but the improvements made for the 2713 won me over.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Only one i know of is timescapes at 1440p. Google it and you will find it immediately


I get the sound but no movie at all


----------



## sidewu

Hello guys! I am the proud owner (just before the weekend!) of a X-Star Matte screen! I am suppose to receive a dual 27" monitor stand on Monday so I can mount this 1440p with my older BenQ 27" 1080p.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello guys! I am the proud owner (just before the weekend!) of a X-Star Matte screen! I am suppose to receive a dual 27" monitor stand on Monday so I can mount this 1440p with my older BenQ 27" 1080p.


welcome to the club bud..


----------



## sidewu

Thanks man. The monitor is incredible. I have bought mine from the Ebay seller excellentcastle. He kindly undervalued the package and stamped it as a gift. I have payed $303 shipped, it took 3 days to arrive and the duties/customs were $26.

The monitor is flawless. I have no dead or stuck pixels, no light bleeding anywhere. I got lucky and I'm happy.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> Thanks man. The monitor is incredible. I have bought mine from the Ebay seller excellentcastle. He kindly undervalued the package and stamped it as a gift. I have payed $303 shipped, it took 3 days to arrive and the duties/customs were $26.
> 
> The monitor is flawless. I have no dead or stuck pixels, no light bleeding anywhere. I got lucky and I'm happy.


Good to hear.. I do t think there are a lot of people who bought from that seller. Glad to hear he took care of you..


----------



## Luminouslight

So I recently purchased a glossy QNIX from ta_planet. At first I could not find any flaws (checked for dead pixels on multiple colors), so I tried overclocking. When I overclocked it to 96 Hz, there was a small pixel wide vertical bar towards the left middle of the screen (not permanent, disappeared after turning back to 60Hz). I followed that line and then saw a dead pixel (Permanent) that I swore was not there before. The pixel seems to have a dead green subpixel, as I can't see it on a red, blue, or black. Tried a bunch of things like undead pixel and applying a small amount of pressure as well as some light taps and can't get it to work again.

Was wondering if anyone else encountered this issue while overclocking, as I am almost certain that is what caused it as it was on the vertical bar that appeared and not elsewhere. It's really noticeable on on my background which is solid gray, but not really noticeable during normal operation aside from that. I am sure this has been asked before, but just wondering if anyone had any suggestions I would greatly appreciate them.

Other than this issue I have no problems with the monitor. I am likely to get a new stand, but I was expecting that.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> Thanks man. The monitor is incredible. I have bought mine from the Ebay seller excellentcastle. He kindly undervalued the package and stamped it as a gift. I have payed $303 shipped, it took 3 days to arrive and the duties/customs were $26.
> 
> The monitor is flawless. I have no dead or stuck pixels, no light bleeding anywhere. I got lucky and I'm happy.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Good to hear.. I do t think there are a lot of people who bought from that seller. Glad to hear he took care of you..


I also bought mine from excellentcastle, exact same experience as above. Can only recommend that seller to anyone still trying to decide.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> I also bought mine from excellentcastle, exact same experience as above. Can only recommend that seller to anyone still trying to decide.


Sweet.. Thank you for the feedback.. I was thinking of a second one.. And after a member on here had a bad experience with hulustar I will not be buying another one from them..


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Is the Qnix using the same panel as the Samsung S27B970D, the innerts looks remarkably similar when dismantled by TFT central as shown by the link below.
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/samsung_s27b970d.htm
> 'The stickers on the panel as shown above confirm it is using the LTM270DL02 panel and it looks as though this is classified as the 201 revision from what we can tell. This would suggest some minor changes since the panel used in the S27A850D which would fit in with differences to the specs of the two models.' from TFT.
> 
> I have been running mine for 2 weeks and v happy with it, no dead pixels, barely any blacklight althought took it apart to straighten frame.
> Just ordered another...


The panel used in my glossy QNIX QX2710 is a LTM270DL02, on very low brightness the image doesn't flicker so I assume that this isn't a PWM but a voltage regulated backlight.
I use mine without the front bezel and that ID is on the metal frame on the bottom frame.
There is a sticker on the back aswell with details on it but I'm too lazy to check that now, I think a user here has allready made pictures of it.
If you have problems with burn-in then lower your refresh rate.

Oh and just my thoughts to all that talking about SVP.
I personally dislike motion interpolation as it degrades quality of video in terms of sharpness and can screw up pretty often. And I think many can agree with this.
It also uses too much resources, I recommend using KCP instead for original video experience or mplayer2 + gl3 renderer on *NIX systems (Linux/OS X/BSD).
Anime might get advantages from these interpolation techniques but it'll still loose quality and detail.

Also, all these 120Hz and so on crap LCD TVs use these techniques aswell to screw up video quality to make it look more smooth.
The panels are almost always refreshing with 60Hz.
Please don't fall for this and use a non-flawed technology such as Plasma (Panasonic is leading here)
Just my 2 cents.

tl;dr SVP is not worth it. Use a Plasma TV to enjoy videos.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> The panel used in my glossy QNIX QX2710 is a LTM270DL02, on very low brightness the image doesn't flicker so I assume that this isn't a PWM but a voltage regulated backlight.
> I use mine without the front bezel and that ID is on the metal frame on the bottom frame.
> There is a sticker on the back aswell with details on it but I'm too lazy to check that now, I think a user here has allready made pictures of it.
> If you have problems with burn-in then lower your refresh rate.
> 
> Oh and just my thoughts to all that talking about SVP.
> I personally dislike motion interpolation as it degrades quality of video in terms of sharpness and can screw up pretty often. And I think many can agree with this.
> It also uses too much resources, I recommend using KCP instead for original video experience or mplayer2 + gl3 renderer on *NIX systems (Linux/OS X/BSD).
> Anime might get advantages from these interpolation techniques but it'll still loose quality and detail.
> 
> Also, all these 120Hz and so on crap LCD TVs use these techniques aswell to screw up video quality to make it look more smooth.
> The panels are almost always refreshing with 60Hz.
> Please don't fall for this and use a non-flawed technology such as Plasma (Panasonic is leading here)
> Just my 2 cents.
> 
> tl;dr SVP is not worth it. Use a Plasma TV to enjoy videos.


Everyone has their opinion. I have a pretty decent pc, so I could care less about the resources svp uses. To my eyes, anime or otherwise, it makes videos look so much better in my eyes.

And are you referring to svp or the overclocking when talking about 120 hz. Because these panels do actually do 120 hz via overclocking, no faking techniques unlike tvs. Maybe my eyes are just bad, but I don't notice any degradation of quality. Perhaps its there, but not enough to make a difference in my eyes. Also a lot of people don't even buy tvs, I have a small one for console gaming, not going to buy a plasma just for videos.


----------



## Deluxe

Just installed this stand: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_3
Pretty cheap and works great, they've got 2 left for us euro's! It says it's only up to 23", but as you can see it fits fine!


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Everyone has their opinion. I have a pretty decent pc, so I could care less about the resources svp uses. To my eyes, anime or otherwise, it makes videos look so much better in my eyes.
> 
> And are you referring to svp or the overclocking when talking about 120 hz. Because these panels do actually do 120 hz via overclocking, no faking techniques unlike tvs. Maybe my eyes are just bad, but I don't notice any degradation of quality. Perhaps its there, but not enough to make a difference in my eyes. Also a lot of people don't even buy tvs, I have a small one for console gaming, not going to buy a plasma just for videos.


I have to agree, I think I am pretty big quality nut, and these look great at 96 and 120 with content like that.


----------



## Beatwolf

that´s actually a really nice stand, minimalistic.. I like it!


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Just installed this stand: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_3
> Pretty cheap and works great, they've got 2 left for us euro's! It says it's only up to 23", but as you can see it fits fine!


I presume it is just as easy to set in portrait.


----------



## Moragg

Okay, so I've finally seen my monitor for the first time.

I've never seen 1440p or 27" before so this looks huge. But I'm loving the extra real estate.

The monitor itself:

Love the coating, coming from glossy the lack of reflections is brilliant.

Minimal BLB. No dead/stuck pixels.

OCing: stock cable gives me loads of red lines at 120Hz, but none at 96Hz. I'll try in between later.

First monitor above 60Hz too, so I immediately noticed the smoother mouse movement. The colours dimmed too much at 96Hz though so I'm reverting to 120Hz for the time being. I ran the windows calibration tool as there was way too much red coming through, but that's fixed so I have neutralish grays.
My school will let me borrow their Xrite Design once I go back so I'll calibrate at various levels and report back.

SVP is too much for my hardware though, my 1055T and HD7770 can't handle it. The few seconds that did work were undoubtedly much smoother though.

Overall I'm really happy with this, shame it won't do the full 120hz though.
Edit: and suddenly it's doing 120Hz just fine


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> I presume it is just as easy to set in portrait.


Yep, can turn it into what ever way you want.
But you won't be able to place 2 of them next to eachother then since the foot is quite big


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Okay, so I've finally seen my monitor for the first time.
> 
> I've never seen 1440p or 27" before so this looks huge. But I'm loving the extra real estate.
> 
> The monitor itself:
> 
> Love the coating, coming from glossy the lack of reflections is brilliant.
> 
> Minimal BLB. No dead/stuck pixels.
> 
> OCing: stock cable gives me loads of red lines at 120Hz, but none at 96Hz. I'll try in between later.
> 
> First monitor above 60Hz too, so I immediately noticed the smoother mouse movement. The colours dimmed too much at 96Hz though so I'm reverting to 120Hz for the time being. I ran the windows calibration tool as there was way too much red coming through, but that's fixed so I have neutralish grays.
> My school will let me borrow their Xrite Design once I go back so I'll calibrate at various levels and report back.
> 
> SVP is too much for my hardware though, my 1055T and HD7770 can't handle it. The few seconds that did work were undoubtedly much smoother though.
> 
> Overall I'm really happy with this, shame it won't do the full 120hz though.


Basically the same situation for me, first 27", first 1440P, first over 60hz. Very nice stuff, enjoy!


----------



## bmancreations

This is my X-Star beside my old 24" HP monitor. I need to get better pics though.

And I really need a second one. (no what you see on it, is not backlight bleed, it's just the wallpaper and the camera)



http://imgur.com/MMjvgTp


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Yep, can turn it into what ever way you want.
> But you won't be able to place 2 of them next to eachother then since the foot is quite big


Thanks for the info, I have a 2nd on order.


----------



## cor35vet

No, I'm talking about those 120Hz TVs or like 200/400Hz whatever they're advertising with are in fact only doing motion interpolation like SVP does to make things look smoother but sacrificing quality.
There's a lot of discussion about motion interpolation on the net and it has been around since ages but noone used it since it's pretty bad and they haven't even had the ressources back then.
I don't know why this is starting to get a thing right now, many complain that on some TVs you can't even turn that off.
Whatever, if it feels better for you then it shouldn't be my concern, I'd just like you to compare between the two pictures.

Oh and I've been running mine on 96Hz since like 3 months now and haven't had any problems. I haven't experience image persistance at all in the last 2 months.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> No, I'm talking about those 120Hz TVs or like 200/400Hz whatever they're advertising with are in fact only doing motion interpolation like SVP does to make things look smoother but sacrificing quality.
> There's a lot of discussion about motion interpolation on the net and it has been around since ages but noone used it since it's pretty bad and they haven't even had the ressources back then.
> I don't know why this is starting to get a thing right now, many complain that on some TVs you can't even turn that off.
> Whatever, if it feels better for you then it shouldn't be my concern, I'd just like you to compare between the two pictures.
> 
> Oh and I've been running mine on 96Hz since like 3 months now and haven't had any problems. I haven't experience image persistance at all in the last 2 months.


Is there a list with what TV's are fake 120hz or which are real?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Is there a list with what TV's are fake 120hz or which are real?


I may be wrong, but I don't think any tv's are real, as in, they won't accept a 120hz input signal.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Is there a list with what TV's are fake 120hz or which are real?


Just google for 120Hz TV not really 120Hz or something like that.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1283547/are-there-any-true-120hz-lcd-tvs
http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-6449_7-6792632-1.html
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2379206,00.asp

As said before, if you want to enjoy movies then get yourself a plasma as LCD is a ****ty technology for moving pictures.

Also, this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I may be wrong, but I don't think any tv's are real, as in, they won't accept a 120hz input signal.


----------



## OneGun

I didn't know this is a new TV forum..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I didn't know this is a new TV forum..


+1


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Interesting and informative but, yeah, not the place.

Ok I have a more relevant question--who has bought a unit from dreamseller for under 300 that was in relatively great shape? Anyone?


----------



## brightbus

Conversations tend to steer and change, its still all about qnix monitors, but really I don't see anything wrong if its monitor related.


----------



## sidewu

What games look nice at 1440p? I would like to try games with outstanding graphics.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> What games look nice at 1440p? I would like to try games with outstanding graphics.


I love BF3 and Crysis 3 at 1440p 120hz..


----------



## sidewu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I love BF3 and Crysis 3 at 1440p 120hz..


I probably won't run Crysis on high with my single 7970. BF3 looks superb.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Just installed this stand: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_3
> Pretty cheap and works great, they've got 2 left for us euro's! It says it's only up to 23", but as you can see it fits fine!


is that in the lowest position? how much distance does is it from the desk to the bottom bezel?


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> is that in the lowest position? how much distance does is it from the desk to the bottom bezel?


No, I can put it all the way down to the ground and about 15 CM higher than it currently is.

A picture tells more than a thousand words:


Note I have placed roughly 4 mm of plastic between the actual mount and the screen, since the screws were a bit too long. No biggie


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> I probably won't run Crysis on high with my single 7970. BF3 looks superb.


Not too many games are going to look nice then, you need a good system to run good looking games. The new Bioshock is nice.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Not too many games are going to look nice then, you need a good system to run good looking games. The new Bioshock is nice.


With the exception of resource hogs like bf3 and crysis 3 most games should be fine. I was running max settings with x-fired 7870's in a few games.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Anything with really detailed textures such as modded Skyrim.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> No, I can put it all the way down to the ground and about 15 CM higher than it currently is.
> 
> A picture tells more than a thousand words:
> 
> 
> Note I have placed roughly 4 mm of plastic between the actual mount and the screen, since the screws were a bit too long. No biggie


Thanks I guess. About as useful as a chocolate fireman.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thanks I guess. About as useful as a chocolate fireman.


Why so negative? He answered your question.


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thanks I guess. About as useful as a chocolate fireman.


Explain yourself


----------



## Moragg

Okay... a quick defuse and a question from me:

I thought I had 120Hz stable, but it looks like on blocky dark grey gradients I get the red lines appearing again. Can anyone else can confirm this?

e.g. http://www.rndo.eu/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/black-gradient.jpg near the top left hand corner for me.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> No, I can put it all the way down to the ground and about 15 CM higher than it currently is.
> 
> A picture tells more than a thousand words:
> 
> 
> Note I have placed roughly 4 mm of plastic between the actual mount and the screen, since the screws were a bit too long. No biggie


Does the wobble stop completely when using this stand?
Thanks for the tip, quite cheap, frankly. +rep


----------



## Deluxe

Doesn't wobble.


----------



## ucantescape1992

Hey everyone, I think I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these. I just have a few questions that hopefully some of you with experience can answer.

1. I'm most likely going to get a Matte QNIX from green-sum. Is it duty free to the U.S.? Meaning the price posted is what I pay, nothing more?

2. How have your experiences been with green-sum, have you ever needed to have something replaced? How did it go?

3. Is the Square Trade warranty worth it? Has anyone ever utilized it? If so did you have to ship them your monitor?

4. Is there anyone you would hands down recommend over green-sum? I'm choosing him because he has an insane amount of feedback, and I've yet to hear anything bad about the user. He's also the cheapest right now.

Here's the listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte/121117252582?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222005%26algo%3DSIC.NUQ%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D16096%26meid%3D8398541842348151162%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D7683%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D130868312541%26

Any info/help/insight would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Hey everyone, I think I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these. I just have a few questions that hopefully some of you with experience can answer.
> 
> 1. I'm most likely going to get a Matte QNIX from green-sum. Is it duty free to the U.S.? Meaning the price posted is what I pay, nothing more?
> 
> 2. How have your experiences been with green-sum, have you ever needed to have something replaced? How did it go?
> 
> 3. Is the Square Trade warranty worth it? Has anyone ever utilized it? If so did you have to ship them your monitor?
> 
> 4. Is there anyone you would hands down recommend over green-sum? I'm choosing him because he has an insane amount of feedback, and I've yet to hear anything bad about the user. He's also the cheapest right now.
> 
> Here's the listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte/121117252582?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222005%26algo%3DSIC.NUQ%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D16096%26meid%3D8398541842348151162%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D7683%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D130868312541%26
> 
> Any info/help/insight would be greatly appreciated.


All i can answer is about the cost..In the US as of right now you will not have to pay tax on item..Also there is no custom fees or anything else..So what you pay on ebay is all you pay..Also i got the square trade warranty just incase it breaks i wanna have someone that will fix it or refund my money for up to 3 years..


----------



## mikekink

New version of the qnix, with display port and hdmi.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Express-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DPORT-27-Monitor-DP-HDMI-DVI-/121127086760?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33bcaaa8

Edit: also just for comparison but this one actually looks like it could be overclockable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Express-New-CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-H-IPS-Slim-Monitor-/121124980735?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c339c87ff


----------



## ucantescape1992

Looks great for people that may want to use this with consoles or want more freedom. I think I'd still prefer the original because I'll be gaming on it. I'm guessing the new controller on that introduces input lag.

Anyone else have some assuring words on green-sum?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> New version of the qnix, with display port and hdmi.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Express-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DPORT-27-Monitor-DP-HDMI-DVI-/121127086760?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33bcaaa8
> 
> Edit: also just for comparison but this one actually looks like it could be overclockable.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Express-New-CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-H-IPS-Slim-Monitor-/121124980735?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c339c87ff


Where do you see that the Crossover is OCable?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> New version of the qnix, with display port and hdmi.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Express-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DPORT-27-Monitor-DP-HDMI-DVI-/121127086760?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33bcaaa8
> 
> Edit: also just for comparison but this one actually looks like it could be overclockable.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Express-New-CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-H-IPS-Slim-Monitor-/121124980735?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c339c87ff


Qnix with more ports = more input lag right?


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Where do you see that the Crossover is OCable?


Well im assuming that there is a possibility because of the lack of inputs on the crossover, but it may not be.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Qnix with more ports = more input lag right?


Technically yes but who knows what electronics those Koreans think up or it may even be the same board from some other multi input Korean monitor.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> Well im assuming that there is a possibility because of the lack of inputs on the crossover, but it may not be.
> Theoretically yes but who knows what electronics those Koreans think up or it may even be the same board from some other multi input Korean monitor.


The last crossover was only Dvi-d i believe and it wouldn't OC..


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Qnix with more ports = more input lag right?


Yes generally there will be more input lag..


----------



## sidewu

I have just tried to overclock my monitor. Set it to 120 and it worked. Seems fine after couple minutes.


----------



## y2kcamaross

That crossover will not be overclockable and I seriously doubt the multi input qnix is overclockable, but would be nice if it was


----------



## brightbus

I like that it has display port, since adapters cost about 100 anyway. I doubt they are overclockable. Guess well find out when someone on here buys one.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I like that it has display port, since adapters cost about 100 anyway. I doubt they are overclockable. Guess well find out when someone on here buys one.


Not it!!! lol


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I like that it has display port, since adapters cost about 100 anyway. I doubt they are overclockable. Guess well find out when someone on here buys one.


Even if its overclockable unless you absolutely require displayport or hdmi, the regular version should be better because of less input lag. Although I guess if you don't game, then input lag matters less.


----------



## Koehler

Existence of scaler = more input lag.

Multi input = more input lag.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Back from finals week, I have much catching up to do. 320+ posts to read through haha


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Even if its overclockable unless you absolutely require displayport or hdmi, the regular version should be better because of less input lag. Although I guess if you don't game, then input lag matters less.


I game, but don't really play online fps much. I'd love native display port on a monitor.


----------



## bmancreations

So it's been a week or more with my new X-Star, overclocked at 96hz and no problems whatsoever.

No burn in, no nothing. So very happy. Really wish I could get a second one now, before the price goes up.


----------



## hammelgammler

Hello Overclock.net!
I'm now a proud owner of two QX2710, and I love them.
At 120Hz, i get stripes in a vertical way.
Could that be because I use the standard dual link dvi cable?
(Info: My GPU is a 7950.)
I ordered two slightly shorter cables. (1.5m)
Hopefully I can reach 120Hz with that.

My other problem is, that my GPU only has one native DVI port. I ordered this adapter, to run the second monitor.
Decreases such an adapter the bandwith of the connection, so that I can't even reach 96Hz on the second monitor?

Thank you for response.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Hello Overclock.net!
> I'm now a proud owner of two QX2710, and I love them.
> At 120Hz, i get stripes in a vertical way.
> Could that be because I use the standard dual link dvi cable?
> (Info: My GPU is a 7950.)
> I ordered two slightly shorter cables. (1.5m)
> Hopefully I can reach 120Hz with that.
> 
> My other problem is, that my GPU only has one native DVI port. I ordered this adapter, to run the second monitor.
> Decreases such an adapter the bandwith of the connection, so that I can't even reach 96Hz on the second monitor?
> 
> Thank you for response.


Do you get these vertical lines while just on the desktop also?And welcome to the club..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Hello Overclock.net!
> I'm now a proud owner of two QX2710, and I love them.
> At 120Hz, i get stripes in a vertical way.
> Could that be because I use the standard dual link dvi cable?
> (Info: My GPU is a 7950.)
> I ordered two slightly shorter cables. (1.5m)
> Hopefully I can reach 120Hz with that.
> 
> My other problem is, that my GPU only has one native DVI port. I ordered this adapter, to run the second monitor.
> Decreases such an adapter the bandwith of the connection, so that I can't even reach 96Hz on the second monitor?
> 
> Thank you for response.


I belive the adapters do something to limit oc. I can't get 96 on my 2nd or 3rd monitors because of them.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Do you get these vertical lines while just on the desktop also?And welcome to the club..


Yes I get them everytime, also at the desktop.

Edit: Sorry but I mean horizontal stripes. My Bad.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I belive the adapters do something to limit oc. I can't get 96 on my 2nd or 3rd monitors because of them.


Damn, that would be bad. I don't need 120Hz at the second monitor, but 96 would be nice, hopefully I'm lucky.


----------



## Quiksmage

Just bought a QNIX matte pixel perfect from green-sum. Should be arriving sometime this week. It's been a while since I've looked on these forums. I first found these forums when the original korean monitors were getting popular. I bought myself an Achieva Shimian back then and have been really happy with that purchase (although the tempered glass at the bottom peaks out a little from time to time, but I can push it back in those 1-2 mm or so, haha).

Now I get to compare the matte to glossy and see the difference of possible overclocking potential. This new monitor is going to replace my 25.6 inch 1920x1200 asus monitor. This should be fun







. Hope I don't get any play on the monitor because I have never opened a monitor before, haha.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Me neither but just opening the bezel is easy. Its the frame that's touchy.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Me neither but just opening the bezel is easy. Its the frame that's touchy.


It was quite difficult to get the metal frame off and that was using some tools that are supposed to aid in taking stuff apart...had to get a second set of hands to help me out.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> It was quite difficult to get the metal frame off and that was using some tools that are supposed to aid in taking stuff apart...had to get a second set of hands to help me out.


Whyd you take the metal frame off, did you debezel? It was pretty easy to pop the display our from the case once it was open.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Whyd you take the metal frame off, did you debezel? It was pretty easy to pop the display our from the case once it was open.


I wanted to paint it matte black.

Hoping my MacGyver'd vesa mount works...waiting for the epoxy to dry.


----------



## sidewu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> I wanted to paint it matte black.
> 
> Hoping my MacGyver'd vesa mount works...waiting for the epoxy to dry.


What's wrong with the vesa mounts?


----------



## dtran01

Can anyone confirm that the product weight is really 5.2 kg? That seems superbly light. I looked up the specs of the PLS panel and it weights 3.2 kg just by itself -- so does the pcb, stand, and bezel plastic really only weigh 2 kg total?

If it weighs 16lbs or more, I'll have to get a more expensive articulating desk mount









Thanks in advance


----------



## bmancreations

Anyone have an idea how long before prices change, or maybe even we see these monitors go away?

I really want to get a second one, but it might be awhile before I can do that. Worried things will change before I can?


----------



## sidewu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtran01*
> 
> Can anyone confirm that the product weight is really 5.2 kg? That seems superbly light. I looked up the specs of the PLS panel and it weights 3.2 kg just by itself -- so does the pcb, stand, and bezel plastic really only weigh 2 kg total?
> 
> If it weighs 16lbs or more, I'll have to get a more expensive articulating desk mount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance


It's less than 10lbs. The monitor is lighter than my BenQ 27".


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> What's wrong with the vesa mounts?


The fact that there is no vesa mount when you debezel the monitor.

The vesa drill holes are in a little box, which holds the electronics, that rests inside the plastic monitor casing. This box is not connected to the actual monitor panel in any way.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Pics, Remmib, when all is said and done please.


----------



## ForceD

I was thinking of doing that aswell if I debezel. Will have to show us what you did, I was also curious how I was gonna mount the panel, since the vesa mounts arent attached to the panel directly.

I was considering gluing vesa mount box to the panel, or something.

Very curious how yours will turn out, will be watching the thread closely for updates. (Lots of pics please)


----------



## Vmastar

So i just got my qnix qx2710, and was impressed when taking out of the box. My screen actually felt reasonably sturdy and there was no give when pushing the actual screen. However when i plugged in the screen there was a distinct light blue line running vertically down on the left side of the screen. Any fix recommendations, or will it be better to return it?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vmastar*
> 
> So i just got my qnix qx2710, and was impressed when taking out of the box. My screen actually felt reasonably sturdy and there was no give when pushing the actual screen. However when i plugged in the screen there was a distinct light blue line running vertically down on the left side of the screen. Any fix recommendations, or will it be better to return it?


That don't look good.. Who did you buy from?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vmastar*
> 
> So i just got my qnix qx2710, and was impressed when taking out of the box. My screen actually felt reasonably sturdy and there was no give when pushing the actual screen. However when i plugged in the screen there was a distinct light blue line running vertically down on the left side of the screen. Any fix recommendations, or will it be better to return it?


I would definitely say that is grounds for return. Who did you purchase it from?


----------



## Vmastar

Got it from hulustar. Damn was hoping there would be some sort of magic fix.
Will get in contact with them in that case


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vmastar*
> 
> Got it from hulustar. Damn was hoping there would be some sort of magic fix.
> Will get in contact with them in that case


Tell me how it goes...


----------



## mrcook

Bought a QNIX matte display from green-sum with perfect pixel option. I recieved it today:

First of all, wow, what an amazing picture quality. An that for a little less than 280€ including taxes.
It overclocks easily to 120Hz with the stock cable. Only the "brightness" goes down a bit.

Here are my problems: Backlightbleeding top left corner, the lower right corner is also very bright and goes darker by pressing on the panel and a dead pixel appr. 10cm from the bottom and 20cm from the right border. Any chance with green-sums perfect pixel policy?

But that's not the major issue: At 60Hz it's almost not hearable (i can when it's really quite), but it starts at 96Hz, especially with a large area of white. There's a loud summing noise coming out of the back of my display. At 120Hz its noticable all the time...
That's really annoying! Because of that it will only be possible to use 60 Hz while i'm not gaming oder watching a movie.

It sounds like a inductor. Did anyone else noticed this problem and fixed it? I think i have to open the bezel anyway cause of the backlightbleeding.


----------



## Intricate09

I plan on getting 2 XStars (Or QNix's. Can't really decide which is better/more suitable for side-by-side,) but my graphics card only has a single DVI port, and an HDMI port as well. The motherboard also has a DVI port as well, however.

I guess my question is, after plugging in one monitor DVI to DVI, would DVI to HDMI work on the second? (DVI in the monitor, HDMI in graphics card.)

If not, could I just DVI-DVI directly into my motherboard? I assume that would hurt its ability to game and such, running on the onboard graphics...


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrcook*
> 
> Bought a QNIX matte display from green-sum with perfect pixel option. I recieved it today:
> 
> First of all, wow, what an amazing picture quality. An that for a little less than 280€ including taxes.
> It overclocks easily to 120Hz with the stock cable. Only the "brightness" goes down a bit.
> 
> Here are my problems: Backlightbleeding top left corner, the lower right corner is also very bright and goes darker by pressing on the panel and a dead pixel appr. 10cm from the bottom and 20cm from the right border. Any chance with green-sums perfect pixel policy?
> 
> But that's not the major issue: At 60Hz it's almost not hearable (i can when it's really quite), but it starts at 96Hz, especially with a large area of white. There's a loud summing noise coming out of the back of my display. At 120Hz its noticable all the time...
> That's really annoying! Because of that it will only be possible to use 60 Hz while i'm not gaming oder watching a movie.
> 
> It sounds like a inductor. Did anyone else noticed this problem and fixed it? I think i have to open the bezel anyway cause of the backlightbleeding.


Doesn't look very perfect to me, must be annoying. I am waiting for mine. Hope you are able to sort it.


----------



## Jointedman

Hello am new to the forums and have been following this thread for 2 week now. This Qnix Matte monitor is the best display you can buy right now, got mine shipped $289 from greensum, absolutely gorgeous display.

First thing i did was to check for light bleed and dead pixels using UndeadPixel and i had bleeding going on in the corners but the the panel had no dead pixel. I the decided i was going to do the tapemod to fix the bleeding, i open up the monitor, and to a point i did get rid of most bleed. I then proceeded to put back my monitor together, i turned on my monitor and the first thing i noticed was 2 dead pixel, oh man i was so pissed about this, i am borderline ocd so this bothered me a lot. One whole week passed by, i tried everything to try to undead the pixels, but it was of no use.

I then decided i was going to open up the monitor and add tape to bring up the display a little bit., in the mean time for some reason i was still very upset about the dead pixels, i took the display apart all the way and decided to check underneath the glass panel for dust particles, it look cleaned to me but nevertheless decided to use some compressed air in between the glass and the white sheet. finally put the display together and what do you know, NO MORE DEAD PIXELS!!!, it was dirt that got in between the glass.

Am not saying that is whats going on with every panel, some panels might get dead pixel after you mess with them too much, but in my experience if you open up your monitor and it seems like you have 1 or 2 dead pixels, you owe it to yourself to make sure there is no dirt particles in between.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Doesn't look very perfect to me, must be annoying. I am waiting for mine. Hope you are able to sort it.


It's as "perfect pixel" as the "Perfect Pixel" guarantee offers. Perfect Pixel does not equate to flawless panel. If you ordered "Perfect Pixel" expecting that, you are likely to be disappointed.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intricate09*
> 
> I plan on getting 2 XStars (Or QNix's. Can't really decide which is better/more suitable for side-by-side,) but my graphics card only has a single DVI port, and an HDMI port as well. The motherboard also has a DVI port as well, however.
> 
> I guess my question is, after plugging in one monitor DVI to DVI, would DVI to HDMI work on the second? (DVI in the monitor, HDMI in graphics card.)
> 
> If not, could I just DVI-DVI directly into my motherboard? I assume that would hurt its ability to game and such, running on the onboard graphics...


Both outputs must be Dual Link DVI - so if youre able to actually use both the motherboard video output with your GPU then its possible (but im almost positive if theres a GPU the onboard video will be disabled automatically)

Another way is that you will need an *active* adapter to DL-DVI, i personally own a display port -> Dual Link DVI adapter - but its only rated up to 330mhz, so it wont do 120hz (maybe 96hz if im lucky) - you can get a 450mhz capable one, but theyre $130 or something.

Im not really sure they make HDMI > DL-DVI active adapters. Youll probably need to upgrade to a newer Geforce (which have 2xDL-DVI outputs, or a Radeon and get an adapter - most Radeons only have 1xDL-DVI and a bunch of display port outputs.


----------



## Sumner Rol

Bought a QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" 2560x1440 WQHD PLS from green-sum. Couldn't pass up paying $289 for a 1440 monitor instead of $599 for the cheapest Asus. Can't wait for it to arrive


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Im not really sure they make HDMI > DL-DVI active adapters. Youll probably need to upgrade to a newer Geforce (which have 2xDL-DVI outputs, or a Radeon and get an adapter - most Radeons only have 1xDL-DVI and a bunch of display port outputs.


HDMI to DL-DVI adapters aren't really available. I haven't found a single one for sale on the internet.


----------



## sidewu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> HDMI to DL-DVI adapters aren't really available. I haven't found a single one for sale on the internet.


You're talking about this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DVI-I-dual-link-24-5-male-to-HDMI-male-M-M-5-FT-cable-for-TV-Laptop-PC-etc-/180763469475?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2a1657a6a3

I'm pretty sure I can find less expensive ones if I search a litlle more.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> You're talking about this?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DVI-I-dual-link-24-5-male-to-HDMI-male-M-M-5-FT-cable-for-TV-Laptop-PC-etc-/180763469475?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2a1657a6a3
> 
> I'm pretty sure I can find less expensive ones if I search a litlle more.


That's not an HDMI -> DL-DVI cable.That's an HDMI -> SL-DVI cable. The connector at the DVI end has nothing to do with it. The electrical connections simply aren't there since HDMI is not electrically compatible with DL-DVI.


----------



## sidewu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That's not an HDMI -> DL-DVI cable.That's an HDMI -> SL-DVI cable. The connector at the DVI end has nothing to do with it. The electrical connections simply aren't there since HDMI is not electrically compatible with DL-DVI.


The more you learn. I was unable to find a hdmi to dl-dvi cable as well. What 's the max output resolution of a normal HDMI output?


----------



## jerrolds

I'm almost positive that wont work - youll need an active adapter. If I remember correctly I tried a passive display port -> DL DVI and it didnt work on both my CrossOver and Tempest. But youre free to give it a shot


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> The more you learn. I was unable to find a hdmi to dl-dvi cable as well. What 's the max output resolution of a normal HDMI output?


Normal?

The maximum output of a current-gen HDMI 1.4a output is 340mhz pixel clock. That may not make much sense on the context of your question, but here's how it breaks down:

At 1080p, this corresponds to a refresh rate of ~163hz. Less depending on your front/back porches etc etc. Suffice to say, about 150hz refresh.
At 1440p, this corresponds to a refresh rate of ~92hz. Same caveats as above; probably around 85hz refresh at 2560x1440.
At 3840x2160, this corresponds to a refresh rate of 40hz. Same caveats as above; probably around 35hz refresh at UHD res.

However, all that assumes that this is a native HDMI connection (HDMI source, HDMI sink), an HDMI 1.4a compliant source, HDMI 1.4a compliant sink and HDMI 1.4a compliant cable.


----------



## kabota

got my x-star from dreamseller today at the discount price..no dead pixel and slight backlight..then found irritating problem for me...all the osd button dont work(brightness/power/vol)...even the power led not function...any advice guy..or should i send it back


----------



## wrigleyvillain

A few dead pixels or lots of panel play is an "irritating" problem; this is much more than that. I guess you are lucky it is in the "on" position (by default?). Unless it's a loose connection inside that is not something you can generally fix yourself.


----------



## majnu

In one of the videos in the OP there is an Auto and Menu button hidden on the control panel, does that actually work? Just thought I'd ask before I take mine apart.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> In one of the videos in the OP there is an Auto and Menu button hidden on the control panel, does that actually work? Just thought I'd ask before I take mine apart.


Nope, not connected.


----------



## sammysamsam

Has anyone who had some slight BLB in the corners noticed that it disappeared after awhile? I bought mine about 2 months ago or so and had it at 96hz from day one and ive noticed that the slight BLB is now gone.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sammysamsam*
> 
> Has anyone who had some slight BLB in the corners noticed that it disappeared after awhile? I bought mine about 2 months ago or so and had it at 96hz from day one and ive noticed that the slight BLB is now gone.


From what I've read and heard from dascth , light bleed is caused either because there is a leak (which tape fixes) or because the all the layers of the screen are not flat (can't be fixed with tape mod). In some instances, gravity alone is enough to flatten out all the layers of screen so that BLB eventually disappears.


----------



## sidewu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabota*
> 
> got my x-star from dreamseller today at the discount price..no dead pixel and slight backlight..then found irritating problem for me...all the osd button dont work(brightness/power/vol)...even the power led not function...any advice guy..or should i send it back


You can always open your monitor and check the connections. It could be a lose connection somewhere.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabota*
> 
> got my x-star from dreamseller today at the discount price..no dead pixel and slight backlight..then found irritating problem for me...all the osd button dont work(brightness/power/vol)...even the power led not function...any advice guy..or should i send it back


Definitely not - you got a very good panel and should be happy with that.

The only connected buttons are underneath the panel - the two on the left for brightness and the one on the far right turns the monitor on/off. The button next to the LED is not connected.

I've personally covered the LED with electical tape as it was annoying me. Much better now


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sammysamsam*
> 
> Has anyone who had some slight BLB in the corners noticed that it disappeared after awhile? I bought mine about 2 months ago or so and had it at 96hz from day one and ive noticed that the slight BLB is now gone.


Well metal expands with heat and the frame is metal...but I guess in this case you would still see it when you first turn it on.


----------



## kabota

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> A few dead pixels or lots of panel play is an "irritating" problem; this is much more than that. I guess you are lucky it is in the "on" position (by default?). Unless it's a loose connection inside that is not something you can generally fix yourself.


at first attempt..it not in the "on" position....on the second attempt in on..i kinda dont know what i have done..








with this price im expecting thing like panel play and few deadpixel..what i dont expect the osd button dont work..kinda hurt my eyes at these brightness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> You can always open your monitor and check the connections. It could be a lose connection somewhere.


not kind of guy to break open new item...but right now i think that the only solution...if there any safety precaution that i need to take note??

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Definitely not - you got a very good panel and should be happy with that.
> 
> The only connected buttons are underneath the panel - the two on the left for brightness and the one on the far right turns the monitor on/off. The button next to the LED is not connected.
> 
> I've personally covered the LED with electical tape as it was annoying me. Much better now


noted..thanks for the tips...waited for a year to get this korean panel..im kinda frustrating for the brighness button dont work..but at least i got a good panel..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabota*
> 
> not kind of guy to break open new item...but right now i think that the only solution...if there any safety precaution that i need to take note??
> noted..thanks for the tips...waited for a year to get this korean panel..im kinda frustrating for the brighness button dont work..but at least i got a good panel..


I hear you but yes sounds like not much choice. I'd say to first make sure by holding down the brightness instead of just clicking but it really sounds like that whole part disconnected.

Just remove the four screws on the bottom then start to push and apply moving pressure inside the groove between the front and back bezels and the two pieces should start to pop apart. You can't easily break these "tabs" like some. There isn't very much protruding plastic.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabota*
> 
> at first attempt..it not in the "on" position....on the second attempt in on..i kinda dont know what i have done..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with this price im expecting thing like panel play and few deadpixel..what i dont expect the osd button dont work..kinda hurt my eyes at these brightness
> not kind of guy to break open new item...but right now i think that the only solution...if there any safety precaution that i need to take note??
> noted..thanks for the tips...waited for a year to get this korean panel..im kinda frustrating for the brighness button dont work..but at least i got a good panel..


Remember there is no OSD in these panels.

I have an X-Star myself so try the following: run your fingers under the bottom bezel. There should be 5 buttons. Going from left to right, press and hold each one for 20 seconds.

If you see no change in brightness there is a problem. You can certainly ask the seller - they may give you permission to open up your panel and check without voiding the warranty.

Otherwise you have a choice: 1) Ask for a replacement
2) If the panel is that good you could ask for a partial refund.


----------



## monkeys

Does anyone know how and when DHL charges vat and charges in UK ?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Does anyone know how and when DHL charges vat and charges in UK ?


Don't know if I had DHL send mine, but I was charged £50 on a £220 monitor. Not bad - £44 was VAT and £6 was "admin charges" which seems fairly reasonable compared to what others have been charged in the US.


----------



## andygully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Does anyone know how and when DHL charges vat and charges in UK ?


My monitor was shipped DHL to the UK from Hulustar and i wasn't charged at all he did mark the price down to $80


----------



## dzap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Don't know if I had DHL send mine, but I was charged £50 on a £220 monitor. Not bad - £44 was VAT and £6 was "admin charges" which seems fairly reasonable compared to what others have been charged in the US.


I had to pay custom duties 40£ and admin charges another 25£, and thats with the price of panel reduced to 100£. That's the cheap ****land - Lithuania for u lol.


----------



## OneGun

Warning to any newer nvidia card owners. The new drivers are bricking some GPUS.. Please do not update to these new drivers as you could brick your GPU..Or stop you from playing bf3.. It is rare bt I thought I would let you guys know..
http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/27187-do-not-update-to-32018/


----------



## ThinkPositive

That's it, you tempted me way too much, just ordered a Qnix qx2710 via green-sum o//
Now I need to get one of these asus 120hz lightboost one to go with it and I'll be all set for any game


----------



## Intricate09

Educated myself a bit more. I do have two DVIs (Twin Frozr 7870 for reference,) but is a single, while the other dual. Would I be able to run one of these through a S-DVI, or use some kind of cable to go DL-DVI? I'm pretty noob with monitors..


----------



## oneilljstn

ok I am convinced, I've gathered my funds and am ready to order one. Are there any sellers that are recommended over others? or any I should avoid? or should I just go with the cheapest?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oneilljstn*
> 
> ok I am convinced, I've gathered my funds and am ready to order one. Are there any sellers that are recommended over others? or any I should avoid? or should I just go with the cheapest?


Really there a few that stand out but it would not be good to induce a monopoly so we can aid a little in keeping price down. I usually look more towards price and warranty(dead pixel count acceptance and what not). Also some of the known good ones would be:

Hulustar
Bigclothcraft
dreamseller
accessorieswhole

All have had pretty good results with a few minor issues. Overall the better we have encountered. Anyone else chime in if you have had good results with another seller.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intricate09*
> 
> Educated myself a bit more. I do have two DVIs (Twin Frozr 7870 for reference,) but is a single, while the other dual. Would I be able to run one of these through a S-DVI, or use some kind of cable to go DL-DVI? I'm pretty noob with monitors..


I assume you are asking about running more than one? No the card needs dual link dvi port to push this res (D or I). Period.


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I assume you are asking about running more than one? No the card needs dual link dvi port to push this res (D or I). Period.


Hey Wrigley, that's what I thought too; but my Catleap is running @ 2560x1440x60hz on the 2nd DVI socket of my 7950 with the Qnix @ 120hz on the 1st one - and I know that all AMD cards only have one DL-DVI socket...

So I'm not quite sure what's going on... like you stated, I thought the SL-DVI spec didn't support WQHD res at all but it seems to work. Can someone explain to this noob LOL?









PS Both CRU & CCC state that both monitors are DL-DVI (well actually I've just noticed, after a driver update, that CCC now says Catleap is DL-DVI and the Qnix is DDC) so I'm even further confuzzled....


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Really there a few that stand out but it would not be good to induce a monopoly so we can aid a little in keeping price down. I usually look more towards price and warranty(dead pixel count acceptance and what not). Also some of the known good ones would be:
> 
> Hulustar
> Bigclothcraft
> dreamseller
> accessorieswhole
> 
> All have had pretty good results with a few minor issues. Overall the better we have encountered. Anyone else chime in if you have had good results with another seller.


I recommend against Hulustar. He is horrible with returns and doesn't seem to pay for returns even if he knows its his fault.


----------



## sidewu

I'd recommend excellentcastle. Lower prices than most of the sellers and nice service.


----------



## oneilljstn

just bought one from bigclothcraft! Super keen, fingers crossed its perfect!


----------



## ucantescape1992

Has anyone ever had a bad experience with green-sum?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oneilljstn*
> 
> just bought one from bigclothcraft! Super keen, fingers crossed its perfect!


I bought mine from BCC so cheers


----------



## lee63

Na, he's good.....just don't leave feedback until you've checked out the monitor thoroughly.


----------



## Protoe

Received my QNIX QX2710 from Hulustar with backlight bleed. Contacted seller but no response yet.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> Received my QNIX QX2710 from Hulustar with backlight bleed. Contacted seller but no response yet.


That's pretty bad, but have you at least tried to fix it yourself? Could save a lot of hassle.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> Received my QNIX QX2710 from Hulustar with backlight bleed. Contacted seller but no response yet.


Did you try to remove the two bottom middle screws? I know someone on here who had the same issue ad he got screwed over by Hulustar.. But I will let him answer you about the issues he had..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ok and when he does you won't be any happier. BLB is a known potential issue and not "covered" in any way. Remove the two middle screws and it will help that bright ass spot on the left and break up the right a bit too most like.

No, OneGun, no one got "screwed". Not re. BLB.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok and when he does you won't be any happier. BLB is a known potential issue and not "covered" in any way. Remove the two middle screws and it will help that bright ass spot on the left and break up the right a bit too most like.
> 
> No, OneGun, no one got "screwed". Not re. BLB.


It is covered. Moderate BLB is not but horrible BLB is covered. Matter of fact even eBay agrees.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok and when he does you won't be any happier. BLB is a known potential issue and not "covered" in any way. Remove the two middle screws and it will help that bright ass spot on the left and break up the right a bit too most like.
> 
> No, OneGun, no one got "screwed". Not re. BLB.


When Hulustar lies to you for two weeks telling you they will take care of it and DHL is on the way.. And they will fix the problem while the whole time they are just trying to stall so the eBay claim will run out.. I would call that trying to screw someone..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thats news to me. How would what is "too much" even be measured? You can't count it like dead pixels.

And I was talking about BLB re. any kind of screw job. Nothing I saw on Hulustar's listing said it would warrant a return. Only over 2 DPs (or a serious defect or DOA). If I am wrong then great.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Has anyone ever had a bad experience with green-sum?


Nope, great experience. I had to pay $60 for import, but that's not really their fault.


----------



## Intricate09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> Hey Wrigley, that's what I thought too; but my Catleap is running @ 2560x1440x60hz on the 2nd DVI socket of my 7950 with the Qnix @ 120hz on the 1st one - and I know that all AMD cards only have one DL-DVI socket...
> 
> So I'm not quite sure what's going on... like you stated, I thought the SL-DVI spec didn't support WQHD res at all but it seems to work. Can someone explain to this noob LOL?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS Both CRU & CCC state that both monitors are DL-DVI (well actually I've just noticed, after a driver update, that CCC now says Catleap is DL-DVI and the Qnix is DDC) so I'm even further confuzzled....


So you have one running through a S-DVI? Can anyone else maybe weigh in on this? ._. I too have an AMD and would like to grab two of these monitors.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> Hey Wrigley, that's what I thought too; but my Catleap is running @ 2560x1440x60hz on the 2nd DVI socket of my 7950 with the Qnix @ 120hz on the 1st one - and I know that all AMD cards only have one DL-DVI socket...
> 
> So I'm not quite sure what's going on... like you stated, I thought the SL-DVI spec didn't support WQHD res at all but it seems to work. Can someone explain to this noob LOL?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS Both CRU & CCC state that both monitors are DL-DVI (well actually I've just noticed, after a driver update, that CCC now says Catleap is DL-DVI and the Qnix is DDC) so I'm even further confuzzled....


Which 7950 do you have?

Not all AMD cards are single link DVI only, but as far as I remember the last ones that were double dual link DVI were the HD 5000 series...


----------



## Andrea deluxe

the glossy qnix 2710 can do around 110/120hz?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrea deluxe*
> 
> the glossy qnix 2710 can do around 110/120hz?


Yes as long as its the Dual link DVI only model..Not all can do that high but i am sure they can all do at least 96hz..


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Another way is that you will need an *active* adapter to DL-DVI, i personally own a display port -> Dual Link DVI adapter - but its only rated up to 330mhz, so it wont do 120hz (maybe 96hz if im lucky) - you can get a 450mhz capable one, but theyre $130 or something.


Do you have a link to a 450mhz one? All I can find is the 330mhz one.


----------



## andygully

If your confident enough try the tape mod fix well after trying out remove the two screws at the bottom behind the badge.
I actually applied tape to the panel (the part which sits in the metal frame) as well as the metal frame and it 100% removed all the blb i had.


----------



## jadenx2

is there no discernible difference between a DVI or HDMI connection? reading this thread makes me want one of these so bad


----------



## monkeys

Don't know if I had DHL send mine, but I was charged £50 on a £220 monitor. Not bad - £44 was VAT and £6 was "admin charges" which seems fairly reasonable compared to what others have been charged in the US.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> My monitor was shipped DHL to the UK from Hulustar and i wasn't charged at all he did mark the price down to $80


Thanks for your replies, do they charge at the door or invoice like FedEx, a wk + later by post?


----------



## majnu

Is there a test to run to check for horizontal lines at high refresh rates?

Whilst I have mine OC'd to 110 in Desktop there are no lines and playing BF3 for the past couple of weeks I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.

However I was playing Alan Wake yesterday and noticed random green horizontal lines would appear, which leads to believe either my OC is not stable (LCD Standard timings) or it's possibly a sign that the monitor is beginning to die.


----------



## zeameth

I am so close to pulling the trigger on one of these, does anyone have a thoughts on the optional 3 year warranty ?


----------



## King4x4

Well my 12 monitors just got shipped so will see how DreamSeller fares.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeameth*
> 
> I am so close to pulling the trigger on one of these, does anyone have a thoughts on the optional 3 year warranty ?


Technically unless you're extremely unlucky it won't break. I believe it has the same failure rates as other high end monitors. (but it comes with dead pixels/BLB)

With that said.. I opted for it because this monitor is already cheap and peace of mind is nice. You can usually get 20% off squaretrade. And if it ever breaks I'll be fully covered.


----------



## zeameth

thanks for the reply, how do you go about getting the 20% off?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Is there a test to run to check for horizontal lines at high refresh rates?
> 
> Whilst I have mine OC'd to 110 in Desktop there are no lines and playing BF3 for the past couple of weeks I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.
> 
> However I was playing Alan Wake yesterday and noticed random green horizontal lines would appear, which leads to believe either my OC is not stable (LCD Standard timings) or it's possibly a sign that the monitor is beginning to die.


Funny you say that as yesterday when i was playing BF3 at 120hz i noticed some blueish lines but only if the background was really dark..Like in the Canals when i ran into a container..But other then that it never happened..So i changed back to my stock cable and in BF3 they went away so i thought i got a bad monoprice cable..But then i went to play a combat flight sim called Aces High2 and i got some lines again..But this has never happened in the 3 weeks i have had this..I hope we are not ruining these things already...









Happy i got square trade in case i break it lol..


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Funny you say that as yesterday when i was playing BF3 at 120hz i noticed some blueish lines but only if the background was really dark..Like in the Canals when i ran into a container..But other then that it never happened..So i changed back to my stock cable and in BF3 they went away so i thought i got a bad monoprice cable..But then i went to play a combat flight sim called Aces High2 and i got some lines again..But this has never happened in the 3 weeks i have had this..I hope we are not ruining these things already...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy i got square trade in case i break it lol..


At 120Hz I get some horizontal lines, but only on very specific shades on gray. Search google for "black white gradients" and in the images look through a few of the more "blocky" darker results, and you might find the lines again.
Normally the lines are blue, if I enable "alternate DVI method" in CCC they become red, and if I scroll up and down they move with the picture.

Not sure what it is about those colors that do this. I'm calibrating my monitor sometime this week, hopefully that'll help.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Is there a test to run to check for horizontal lines at high refresh rates?
> 
> Whilst I have mine OC'd to 110 in Desktop there are no lines and playing BF3 for the past couple of weeks I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.
> 
> However I was playing Alan Wake yesterday and noticed random green horizontal lines would appear, which leads to believe either my OC is not stable (LCD Standard timings) or it's possibly a sign that the monitor is beginning to die.


Random green lines is an indication of the quality of the DVI cable your using - you can try and swap out another, or get a 24AWG cable - but its no guarantee that itll be better. But i give it a 50/50 shot - my included 28AWG was better than both 24AWG cables i tried.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Adjusting values in CRU can also help but it's pretty trial-and-error. I figure it helps stabilize the signal by reducing noise and errant frequencies but I'm no electrical engineer.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Funny you say that as yesterday when i was playing BF3 at 120hz i noticed some blueish lines but only if the background was really dark..Like in the Canals when i ran into a container..But other then that it never happened..So i changed back to my stock cable and in BF3 they went away so i thought i got a bad monoprice cable..But then i went to play a combat flight sim called Aces High2 and i got some lines again..But this has never happened in the 3 weeks i have had this..I hope we are not ruining these things already...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy i got square trade in case i break it lol..


I think the lines show up in dark areas buddy. Alan Wake as you know if a dark game mostly at night so it was more visible at the time I was playing.

Hence my question about the test. Ideally I'd like a programme to push the monitor to high refresh rates, whilst displaying different background colours.

Maybe if I run gpu-z render test mode in the background and have lcd test running it may work. (In fact let me try that out)


----------



## Clam Slammer

Got my matte qnix in the mail, DHL just started showing progress and it's being shipped from Green Sum.

Green-sum says shipping takes 2-5 days, and I live in New York. DHL's estimate is June 24th to July 1st, which is pretty damn long. Anyone have experience with shipping from Green-sum that can give me an idea of how long this is gonna take? Because I have that hybrid feeling of excitement/ impatience. Tanks.


----------



## jadenx2

so if there are certain games my PC cant handle at 1440p yet (lets say Arma 3) and i run it at 1080p will it still look the same as if i were using a 1080p monitor? sorry if this is a dumb question...


----------



## jerrolds

Nope itll either look a bit worse if you choose to use your GPU to scale (fitting 1080p in 1440p space) or youll have a border around it, not taking up entire screen

What i usually do is just turn down other settings - but its up to you


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes and the displays themselves can not do scaling thus why consoles can't work.


----------



## ucantescape1992

If you were to run centered 1920x1080 on this display, the size of the image would be 20.25" diagonal. I calculated this using http://pixeldensitycalculator.com/.

2560x1440 @ 27" = 108.79 ppi
1920x1080 @ 20.25 = 108.79 ppi

That's pretty small, might be difficult to play games on that size.

If you have a game that just wont run well at all you could create a custom resolution that would put you somewhere between the two.

2240x1260 would be around 23.6" diagonal if centered.

I personally can't play games on a screen smaller than 23", it hurts my eyes. In FPS games I also can't see enemies easily enough.


----------



## ucantescape1992

I'd also never recommend stretching a resolution to full screen. It takes away from the point of this monitor, which is high pixel density and beautiful colors.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Random green lines is an indication of the quality of the DVI cable your using - you can try and swap out another, or get a 24AWG cable - but its no guarantee that itll be better. But i give it a 50/50 shot - my included 28AWG was better than both 24AWG cables i tried.


I played 4 more hrs of bf3 with my stock cable and I no longer get the lines.. Only with my 24awg cable do I get them in certain grey screens..


----------



## Croshnar

I would really love to talk to a few people who own these monitors. I'm really looking into buying one. If anyone would like to give me more information on them, please PM me. Thanks

-Croshnar


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Croshnar*
> 
> I would really love to talk to a few people who own these monitors. I'm really looking into buying one. If anyone would like to give me more information on them, please PM me. Thanks
> 
> -Croshnar


What do you need to know? Just read the spoiler below.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 27" 2560x1440 120Hz PLS for $310
> 
> How you may ask? *Qnix QX2710 (Pixel Perfect )*
> 
> It's a PLS panel (which is just Samsung's version of IPS), though the pixels are different from IPS monitors. Some also think PLS has better colors than IPS.
> 
> From what I've seen most people easily hit 110Hz, if not 120Hz, as long as you don't have a garbage graphics card.
> 
> The bezel is of reasonable size, too bad it's glossy though, I'll be painting mine matte black. Also the anti-glare coating on the monitor is quite light and doesn't degrade the picture quality. Sooo much better than glossy if you ask me, and many others will agree.
> 
> Mine came with 1 dead pixel and 1 stuck pixel (likely the stuck pixel can be fixed), I ain't even mad though...the pixels are so god damn small it's quite hard to notice it. I don't have any backlight bleed on mine, some people have experienced bleed, but there is an easy fix.
> 
> The downside of the monitor is that the casing is cheap, which ain't that big of a deal to me. Although it is kind of annoying that you have to remove the back panel to take off the stem of the mount (if you want to put this monitor on a monitor stand with arms).
> 
> All in all, I'm really happy with mine. Definitely recommend it if you're in the market for basically the best bang for the buck/performance monitor you can buy right now. Also, the shipping from South Korea is so stupidly fast...48 hours, how is that possible? If you're worried about a warranty or it dying you can get a warranty from Square Trade for $50 for 3 year coverage.
> 
> Feel free to read user's opinions in the huge Overclock.net threads:
> - Original Thread
> - Overclock Results
> - Monitor Club w/ Optimization Guides
> 
> *TL;DR*
> Pros:
> -27"
> -1440p
> -overclockable to 120Hz
> -amazing colors
> -cheap
> 
> Cons:
> -cheap casing
> -possible backlight bleed (though you can fix on your own)
> -cheap monitor stand


----------



## jadenx2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Nope itll either look a bit worse if you choose to use your GPU to scale (fitting 1080p in 1440p space) or youll have a border around it, not taking up entire screen
> 
> What i usually do is just turn down other settings - but its up to you


so what about games that don't support 1440p? do they look like crap?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No that is controlled by your video driver not the game. All can run at native res whatever it may be. Some games may not 'support' more than 60Hz though.

Edit: At least I think I have that right. My games only now show 2560x1440 as an option and even Unreal 1 from 1998 can do it (though I haven't tried a ton of different games yet).


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Croshnar*
> 
> I would really love to talk to a few people who own these monitors. I'm really looking into buying one. If anyone would like to give me more information on them, please PM me. Thanks
> 
> -Croshnar


What info are you looking for?


----------



## chaos_being

I got my "perfect pixel" QX2710 today (it had the red factory sticker on the box.) Well, it was perfect pixel for 30 minutes...and then a hot red pixel appeared almost dead center







I'm trying UDpixel (although I've tried this on a past monitor with zero luck,) and I've messaged the seller. Lets see where this goes.

Otherwise, background bleed isn't terribly bad, the stand and bezel are about as laughable as expected, and the IPS (well, I guess PLS) glow bothers me more than I was hoping it would. I was a die-hard CRT holdout for a while though so my eyes are just picky. The colors and lack of color shift over the TN panel I was just using is nice though.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaos_being*
> 
> I got my "perfect pixel" QX2710 today (it had the red factory sticker on the box.) Well, it was perfect pixel for 30 minutes...and then a hot red pixel appeared almost dead center
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying UDpixel (although I've tried this on a past monitor with zero luck,) and I've messaged the seller. Lets see where this goes.
> 
> Otherwise, background bleed isn't terribly bad, the stand and bezel are about as laughable as expected, and the IPS (well, I guess PLS) glow bothers me more than I was hoping it would. I was a die-hard CRT holdout for a while though so my eyes are just picky. The colors and lack of color shift over the TN panel I was just using is nice though.


Who did you buy from?


----------



## chaos_being

green-sum. He (she?) has good feedback so I'm not too worried yet. The other thing I didn't mention, which I'm wondering if anyone else has encountered here, is that the power connector in the back of my monitor seems really loose. I have to wiggle the power plug until it is just right to get the monitor to power on with an audible "pop."


----------



## Halven

Im real close to order the QNIX one but before i do i would like to know how the motion blur are on them?
Atm i have an Eizo Foris FS2333, will i be able to notice any difference in games like BF3 and WoW with the QNIX?
And since it lacks an OSD menu does that mean that there's no input lag or have i gotten that wrong?
Also, do you guys think a i5 2500k (4.2ghz), 8gb ram and a windforce GTX670 2GB will be enough to play bf3 and wow at a decent fps with high/medium settings in 1440p?
And correct me if im wrong but i have read that with a 1440p monitor AA is something you won't need in games at that resolution, how come?
Thanks!<3


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Halven*
> 
> Im real close to order the QNIX one but before i do i would like to know how the motion blur are on them?
> Atm i have an Eizo Foris FS2333, will i be able to notice any difference in games like BF3 and WoW with the QNIX?
> And since it lacks an OSD menu does that mean that there's no input lag or have i gotten that wrong?
> Also, do you guys think a i5 2500k (4.2ghz), 8gb ram and a windforce GTX670 2GB will be enough to play bf3 and wow at a decent fps with high/medium settings in 1440p?
> And correct me if im wrong but i have read that with a 1440p monitor AA is something you won't need in games at that resolution, how come?
> Thanks!<3


I can't answer all these but I can do some:
The lack of a scaler and OSD means there is much less input lag than almost all the other IPS/PLS monitors you can buy. There will still be some input lag - most say it is very very tiny though.

The CPU and RAM are enough. According to bit-tech:
Battlefield 3
2,560 x 1,600 4xAA 16x AF, ultra detail settings, DirectX 11
gets 38fps min, 45fps avg. At high/medium you should easily get above 60fps.

These monitors have a greater pixel density. More pixels close together means jagged edges are much less noticable, so you don't need anywhere near as much AA for smooth looking lines.


----------



## jadenx2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No that is controlled by your video driver not the game. All can run at native res whatever it may be. Some games may not 'support' more than 60Hz though.
> 
> Edit: At least I think I have that right. My games only now show 2560x1440 as an option and even Unreal 1 from 1998 can do it (though I haven't tried a ton of different games yet).


eh not too sure about that one. i play older games often and a good bit of them i can't run at 1920x1080 (or at least don't have the option to) unless i use a mod or a widescreen hack.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Halven*
> 
> Im real close to order the QNIX one but before i do i would like to know how the motion blur are on them?
> Atm i have an Eizo Foris FS2333, will i be able to notice any difference in games like BF3 and WoW with the QNIX?
> And since it lacks an OSD menu does that mean that there's no input lag or have i gotten that wrong?
> Also, do you guys think a i5 2500k (4.2ghz), 8gb ram and a windforce GTX670 2GB will be enough to play bf3 and wow at a decent fps with high/medium settings in 1440p?
> And correct me if im wrong but i have read that with a 1440p monitor AA is something you won't need in games at that resolution, how come?
> Thanks!<3


Yes there is very little input lag in fact it is the lowest i have seen other than the lightboost monitors(at 120hz not 60hz). It does have a 8ms response so there could be slight ghosting(not too much that i have noticed). A 670 is going to be just fine for BF3 except for AA. It is true with the pixel density of this monitor AA is not needed as much but using it will show improvement as this monitor is 109PPI. It has also been shown that overall 2GB of VRAM is just enough for 1440p(NO AA though).


----------



## General121

Thinking about getting the QNIX QX2710 from, green-sum this summer possibly. how good is the monitor?
Any noticeable annoyances in the common grouping?
Rough shipping time to the east coast?
How many of you have been able to oc the monitor, past, 80hz?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Thinking about getting the QNIX QX2710 from, green-sum this summer possibly. how good is the monitor?
> Any noticeable annoyances in the common grouping?
> Rough shipping time to the east coast?
> How many of you have been able to oc the monitor, past, 80hz?


I do not know of anyone on here that couldn't oc past 80hz..i am pretty sure that everyone at least gets to 96hz..


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Which 7950 do you have?
> 
> Not all AMD cards are single link DVI only, but as far as I remember the last ones that were double dual link DVI were the HD 5000 series...


It's an XFX Double Dissipation, not the best brand I know... it definitely doesn't have 2 DL-DVI though so I don't quite know how I'm managing to run 2 2560x1440 monitors from it tbh...


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> It's an XFX Double Dissipation, not the best brand I know... it definitely doesn't have 2 DL-DVI though so I don't quite know how I'm managing to run 2 2560x1440 monitors from it tbh...


should be fine. I did two with a xfx 7870


----------



## OneGun

What movie player do you guys use while being patched and on test mode?Cause i can't get anything but a black screen on win media player..


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> What movie player do you guys use while being patched and on test mode?Cause i can't get anything but a black screen on win media player..


I use VLC media player for everything.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I use VLC media player for everything.


Just got it thank you..


----------



## chaos_being

There's my monitor with the stuck red pixel almost right in the center. It doesn't show up with this small of a photo so the location is circled. The bleed actually kind of sucks now that I look at it closer...although the camera makes it look worse than it appears in person.

Anyways, the seller responded and asked for pictures (reasonable and as expected.) I'm aiming for a refund or replacement, a monitor with a hot pixel in the center is useless to me.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaos_being*
> 
> 
> 
> There's my monitor with the stuck red pixel almost right in the center. It doesn't show up with this small of a photo so the location is circled. The bleed actually kind of sucks now that I look at it closer...although the camera makes it look worse than it appears in person.
> 
> Anyways, the seller responded and asked for pictures (reasonable and as expected.) I'm aiming for a refund or replacement, a monitor with a hot pixel in the center is useless to me.


Lol don't refund it. Hot pixels usually go away within a few weeks.


----------



## zeameth

ive sent green-sum a couple of questions, assuming their answers are ok ill be getting one


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeameth*
> 
> ive sent green-sum a couple of questions, assuming their answers are ok ill be getting one


It takes them a couple days to reply..Just so you know bud..


----------



## monkeys

8.49 with courier delivery now
I am waiting on a Greensum delivery here.

He sends pretty standard answers.... ending hope we can do business  but all questions replied somewhat. He replies generally 8-10 gmt.


----------



## jadenx2

is it even worth getting one of these running on a single GTX 680? (2GB)

im so torn


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> is it even worth getting one of these running on a single GTX 680? (2GB)
> 
> im so torn


I have the monitor with a much worse GPU. I guess it depends on what games you play but GTX 680 should be plenty...


----------



## zeameth

thanks for that, now that im so close to actually ordering i can't wait for their reply


----------



## jadenx2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I have the monitor with a much worse GPU. I guess it depends on what games you play but GTX 680 should be plenty...


assuming i'm playing the newest ones. obviously i'd have to play around with the settings on some games at that high of a resolution...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> assuming i'm playing the newest ones. obviously i'd have to play around with the settings on some games at that high of a resolution...


You will be good with that gpu.. Just don't expect 120fps at 1440p on the newest games as that is gonna require two gpus..


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thanks. I did try the default NV utility but the whole system started to lag. Mouse movements, screen drags would skip.
> My Brother has taken my phone so I can't take a pic so a screen shot will have to do, but this is how much difference it makes (see pic below). The Xrite was done using auto setup and I will get back to it in manual mode to fine tune. I know viewing pics depends on your monitors too but hopefully you can see the differences.
> 
> Default
> 
> 
> 
> Colour Profile Applied from OCN
> 
> 
> 
> XRite Auto Calibrate


Please may we have your ICC profile (XRite Auto Calibrate)?...it looks amzing...!

Any suggestion for a good/price color calibrator, as I have just ordered the Qnix (ExCastle..) and will be getting the LG 27EA8 for later.
Thanks


----------



## miket5au

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> so what about games that don't support 1440p? do they look like crap?


I tried a few (peggle deluxe for example) and it was scaled to fit the screen (may be some way to turn that off)

I don't think it looked too bad (its not a graphically challenging game).

Other games I tried looked okay scaled to fit. They don't look anything like as good as a game at 1440P looks but I think they look better scaled to the screen size rather than using 1/4 or 1/2 of the screen.

As always YMMV


----------



## HHawk

I received my QNIX (from bigclothcraft) 2 weeks ago, however since I was on vacation and doing changes (painting) walls in our house I didn't have the time to test my new monitor earlier than yesterday.

*My first impressions:*
Regarding pixels: no dead, hot or lazy pixels.
Backlight bleeding: very minor (right bottom and top center)
Screenpanel: I think it's located a tad to low, but I have to re-check it again (maybe it's just me)
Overclock: I had no issues (other than image getting darker) at 120 Hz. On 100 Hz image seems to look perfect.
Remarks; included dual-link cable is the same brand as the cable I received with my Hazro HZ 27 WC monitor. The Qnix frame appears to be slightly bigger / wider than the Hazro.

All in all I am very happy with it's performance, especially considering the price (356 AUD / ~275 Euro including shipping with UPS). I paid the double amount for the Hazro!

A few questions and yes, I read the OP and the various posts about it, but just want to make sure.

*Question 1:*
To move the panel slightly up, it's best to use some electrical tape and put it on the corner "holders" right? I think I only need to move it slightly more to the top, however I will have recheck my monitor again when I get back home if it's really slightly out of position. As mentioned above, I only did a quick check yesterday to see if everything was okay.
With the corner "holders" I mean the bottom part on *this* picture (was posted somewhere in this thread).

*Question 2:*
It's (again) about the tape mod to fix BLB "issue". Though my monitor has really slight BLB, I do want to try to improve it more. I already need to open up the monitor because I am going to wallmount it and I have to remove the fixed pedestal / stand. So when I am going to do this, I was considering trying to fix the marginal BLB I have (at the top of the screen and right bottom).
As mentioned above; I did read the OP and the posts / tutorials in there from wntrsnowg and rushstrike and I also read some other posts about this (for example the one from *UNOE*, but I am still a little uncertain what to do exactly. Where do I apply the electrical tape exactly? Is it on the metal frame or partially on the panel itself (at the edges). Maybe this is self-explanatory when you open it up, however I rather be sure about things, before I mess things up.

Thanks for helping out and I am sorry if I am the 100th person who asks again about the tape mod. But the pictures in the post about the tape mod are not very clear to me. The only pictures I see are from the BLB, fingers pressing, sticker of the panel type/brand, a picture of the panel itself and than the final picture with no more BLB. :S

Maybe someone can redo a better (no offense meant) tutorial on the tape mod with more (detailed) pictures instead? I would be happy to do so, however I first need to know what to do exactly. Haha.


----------



## DomChristo

Got my Xstar Matte screen the other day, Hated the stand to bought an AOC one.
OC to 110HZ ok, some green lines at 120hz.

Pics:


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DomChristo*
> 
> Got my Xstar Matte screen the other day, Hated the stand to bought an AOC one.
> OC to 110HZ ok, some green lines at 120hz.
> 
> Pics:


welcome to the club bud..


----------



## foxino

guys just a little question.. i m going to buy one of these monitor..
I play usually mmorpg and sometime some action or fps.. can di do that if i buy a qnix2?
can i oc it to 100+mhz right5?
thank you

----
ps: and if yes... which one i must buy? there r tons of price for the same model







i just need dvi no hdmi no audio ecc ecc

guys
Mirko


----------



## chaos_being

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Lol don't refund it. Hot pixels usually go away within a few weeks.


That would be nice, but I've never had that experience in the past with hot/stuck pixels (every time I've encountered them they've been permanent no matter how much massaging/"screen fix" programs were run.) Anyways I hope you're right, in the meantime I'm running a screen fix program and waiting to hear back. If this was one of the regular monitors sold with the caution of possible bad pixels...well I'd still be disappointed but that's the chances you take, but this was supposed to be perfect pixel (and marked as such) so I don't think I'm being too unreasonable to not want one with a stuck pixel smack in the middle of it


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaos_being*
> 
> That would be nice, but I've never had that experience in the past with hot/stuck pixels (every time I've encountered them they've been permanent no matter how much massaging/"screen fix" programs were run.) Anyways I hope you're right, in the meantime I'm running a screen fix program and waiting to hear back. If this was one of the regular monitors sold with the caution of possible bad pixels...well I'd still be disappointed but that's the chances you take, but this was supposed to be perfect pixel (and marked as such) so I don't think I'm being too unreasonable to not want one with a stuck pixel smack in the middle of it


Agreed, I'd definitely return it if it's supposed to be pixel perfect. A dead pixel near the edge I could live with, but a stuck one in the center is horrible, and the seller needs to be made aware asap so if something goes wrong you can file the ebay claim in time.


----------



## Halven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thanks. I did try the default NV utility but the whole system started to lag. Mouse movements, screen drags would skip.
> My Brother has taken my phone so I can't take a pic so a screen shot will have to do, but this is how much difference it makes (see pic below). The Xrite was done using auto setup and I will get back to it in manual mode to fine tune. I know viewing pics depends on your monitors too but hopefully you can see the differences.
> 
> XRite Auto Calibrate


That looks amazing, which Xrite colorimeter did you use?
And do you guys think a Spyder 4 Express will do the job?


----------



## chaos_being

The seller is aware, I emailed pictures of the problem last night, so I am waiting for now. He did mention the possibility of "refunding the difference" for a non-perfect pixel, but I don't plan on accepting that and keeping this monitor; I want one without pixel flaws. We'll see where this goes. I want to like this monitor as the clarity and color is definitely a step up from my old panel, more resolution is nice, blur is about the same. Bleeding is worse and of course the pixel issue is much worse.

At the risk of rambling I do have to say that I seem to have bad luck with monitors, well that and a combination of a general dislike for LCD's. As I said before I was a CRT holdout, I used a FW900 until the convergence on it was finally too bad to use. After that I bought the panel I was using before, a Samsung 27" 1080p TN "1ms" (one of the first 27" 1080 panels, bought about 3 years ago.) For a TN it is actually pretty flawless, no dead pixels or bleed, not terribly blurry, "ok" colors but of course it has crummy color shift and banding. Last year I tried to take a somewhat similar cheaper route for an upgrade and tried a couple of different 32" TV's...1st one (an S-IPS) had weird text artifacting but was otherwise "ok" (good colors, bad blur and glow,) 2nd one (a MVA) had good text and movement but odd, shiny looking colors and a burst of bad pixels again, in the center. After that I gave up and went back to the TN until now. I sort of wish I had opted for the Microcenter Auria at this point (I have a store near me and could have easily returned a flawed one,) but I'm hopeful that this will work out for me eventually! Otherwise I'm just going to have to wait for better panel tech...or pony up for an "official" Samsung or Asus (and still run the risk of flaws...)

Ok rant over


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah except you can't truly tell what his IQ and color looks like when viewing it on _your_ display.


----------



## General121

I don't think you want to get an Auria now. Starting in 2012 or 2013 they used different panels and screens with much less quality. Hopefully I can get a qnix though, I'm ready for 1440p and a higher hz. 1080p on 27" doesn't look good at all.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well you could get an Auria open box for under $340 FYI. Most stores seem to have them. I figure most return when they find out the hard way that they can't run it on their machines.


----------



## General121

You're paying more for what will be a worse monitor though.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Maybe someone can redo a better (no offense meant) tutorial on the tape mod with more (detailed) pictures instead? I would be happy to do so, however I first need to know what to do exactly. Haha.


You apparently want to tape underneath the metal frame, once removed, around the bleed areas and yes possibly also some on the panel itself. Frankly, it's really more trial and error, from the sound of it, and once you have it open and are actually looking at the parts and construction then this all becomes a lot more clear. There's not much to them in there, really. You can also turn it on before it's put back together to see what effect your taping has had. That said, even though I have some bleed and had mine open to remove the stand it was obvious delicate work to take off the frame and I have not yet attempted myself.


----------



## OneGun

If you want something cheap with a guarantee get a monoprice.Although not as cheap as a Qnix they have one model they guarantee perfect or they will replace it for up to a year.. I had one but the glass screen drove me nuts..


----------



## sidewu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> I don't think you want to get an Auria now. Starting in 2012 or 2013 they used different panels and screens with much less quality. Hopefully I can get a qnix though, I'm ready for 1440p and a higher hz. 1080p on 27" doesn't look good at all.


Doesn't look good at all? I have a 27" TN panel in 1080p right next to me and it doesn't look bad at all. The 1440p sure looks better, but my other monitor is not that far behind.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sidewu*
> 
> Doesn't look good at all? I have a 27" TN panel in 1080p right next to me and it doesn't look bad at all. The 1440p sure looks better, but my other monitor is not that far behind.


Ive been using two 1080p 27" Viewsonics for some time. It is too stretched to me. I saw a 24" 1080p and I could see more quality and details on the 24" rather than my two 27" monitors.


----------



## Croshnar

Which monitor do you suggest? Provide a link if you can. And can I mount these on a wall, as I would a tv?


----------



## General121

Qnix does have a 100x100 standard VESA mount according to eBay seller green-sum. For a lower budget, qnix seems to be the best and cheapest ...which confuses me how that is possible.


----------



## Croshnar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Qnix does have a 100x100 standard VESA mount according to eBay seller green-sum. For a lower budget, qnix seems to be the best and cheapest ...which confuses me how that is possible.


Could you provide a link please?


----------



## chaos_being

Yeah glossy would drive me nuts too, my computer room isn't nearly light controlled enough. I tried a semi-glossy screen in there once and that was bad enough. I had heard the Aurias weren't as good as before, but the newer matte vs. glossy would actually be good for me. Hopefully this'll just be a moot point anyways so long as the seller comes through for me.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Croshnar*
> 
> Could you provide a link please?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6 Scroll towards the bottom. Itll show one wall mounted and say "Space-saving efficieny."


----------



## sidewu

X-Star and qnix are around the same price. The X-Star monitors also come equipped with the 100 vesa mount.


----------



## foxino

goodevenig guys

could you help me to decide which monitor to buy.
I'm undecided between qnix and yamakasi .. There are differences in quality 'between these two?
What do you suggest .. So tonight I order it ^ ^.
Do any of you use it to play? what impression do you have? (MMORPG or action games).


----------



## OneGun

The cheaper yamakasis don't oc.. Only the 2bs do and those are around $700 plus now. The Qnix will oc for around $300.. The Qnix is PLS panel and yamakasi is ips. The Qnix will do when OCed and from what I have heard if you get the yamakasi 2b and oc it it will not dim. But other then that I would go Qnix since the price is better and you can oc it.


----------



## foxino

Ic. but about playing?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> Ic. but about playing?


Haven't had a chance to play with mine yet, but I hear it's amazing.


----------



## OneGun

Greensum has the perfect pixel at $30 off regular price special right now..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Haven't had a chance to play with mine yet, but I hear it's amazing.


The PLS panels are supposed to have better blacks than the IPS ones, so I imagine the Qnix displays shadow detail much better than the Yamasaki.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Greensum has the perfect pixel at $30 off regular price special right now..
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11


That's his normal price for that one...


----------



## foxino

than you.. i m just scary about lag. I read that someone complained and others will not experience anything. i try to youtube too but nothing^^


----------



## jadenx2

so would you guys say it's worth it to jump one of these now then upgrade my GPU/CPU at a later time?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> than you.. i m just scary about lag. I read that someone complained and others will not experience anything. i try to youtube too but nothing^^


What are you using now for a monitor?A CRT?


----------



## foxino

for 200 euro.. got it.. ^^ now waiting ^^


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> so would you guys say it's worth it to jump one of these now then upgrade my GPU/CPU at a later time?


I would..I am going to buy a second one in 2 weeks just while the price is low..With the yamakasi's once everyone found out they could OC and everyone started buying them the price more then doubled..So i would buy now while the still have the OCable pcb in them..As the yamakasi changed there pcb to a none OCable one..


----------



## foxino

samsung rz2233 120hz


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> samsung rz2233 120hz


You might notice a lil bit more input lag over your 120hz tn panel..But the input lag is less on my Qnix then on my 60hz Asus tn panel when OCed..


----------



## foxino

^^ kk very thx guys... for your help and time^^


----------



## iamwardicus

I apperently ordered one 2 nights ago in a very sleepy state that morning... I don't ever remember clicking Buy Now but I apperently did.... Wife isn't angry at least... I'll share the experience with mine whenever it arrives. Seller was green-sum, and the order was for the pixel-perfect one. Hopefully it's a good unit with very little BLB.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamwardicus*
> 
> I apperently ordered one 2 nights ago in a very sleepy state that morning... I don't ever remember clicking Buy Now but I apperently did.... Wife isn't angry at least... I'll share the experience with mine whenever it arrives. Seller was green-sum, and the order was for the pixel-perfect one. Hopefully it's a good unit with very little BLB.


----------



## Xenderwind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamwardicus*
> 
> I apperently ordered one 2 nights ago in a very sleepy state that morning... I don't ever remember clicking Buy Now but I apperently did.... Wife isn't angry at least... I'll share the experience with mine whenever it arrives. Seller was green-sum, and the order was for the pixel-perfect one. Hopefully it's a good unit with very little BLB.


I just ordered one monday from him as well and its showing that it arrived in the US at cincinnati. You may not have to wait long at all to get yours.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenderwind*
> 
> I just ordered one monday from him as well and its showing that it arrived in the US at cincinnati. You may not have to wait long at all to get yours.


Usually 3-4 business days, its great.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenderwind*
> 
> I just ordered one monday from him as well and its showing that it arrived in the US at cincinnati. You may not have to wait long at all to get yours.


Does it say cleared customs yet in Cincinnati? Once it says that you will get it the next day.. At least mine said it was in Cincinnati on Thursday and I got it Friday morning..


----------



## Xenderwind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Does it say cleared customs yet in Cincinnati? Once it says that you will get it the next day.. At least mine said it was in Cincinnati on Thursday and I got it Friday morning..


says "Shipment has been given a release by Customs." and "Next Step:
Unless there is an adhoc exam or a stop by another regulatory authority the shipment will proceed to delivery" so i'm hoping for either tomorrow or friday, but the tracking hasnt changed at all since.


----------



## iamwardicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenderwind*
> 
> says "Shipment has been given a release by Customs." and "Next Step:
> Unless there is an adhoc exam or a stop by another regulatory authority the shipment will proceed to delivery" so i'm hoping for either tomorrow or friday, but the tracking hasnt changed at all since.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Usually 3-4 business days, its great.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenderwind*
> 
> I just ordered one monday from him as well and its showing that it arrived in the US at cincinnati. You may not have to wait long at all to get yours.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Does it say cleared customs yet in Cincinnati? Once it says that you will get it the next day.. At least mine said it was in Cincinnati on Thursday and I got it Friday morning..


My DHL tracking still says:
Departed from DHL facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)

Jun-19-13, 21:44 PM, INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL

I'm assuming I'll get it perhaps as early as next tuesday... unless it flys directly to cincinatti or columbus... I'm located in Toledo so anywhere in OHIO would be amazing.


----------



## OneGun

Here is what DHL told me when I called. They said they only send the customs paperwork to Cincinnati and that my monitor was still in Korea waiting for customs to clear it..Then once it was cleared my monitor would go from Korea to China to LA. Then to my house.. That could have been my own special case but mine was never actually in Cincinnati.. As soon as it said mine cleared customs I got it the next morning..


----------



## Xenderwind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamwardicus*
> 
> My DHL tracking still says:
> Departed from DHL facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)
> 
> Jun-19-13, 21:44 PM, INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL
> 
> I'm assuming I'll get it perhaps as early as next tuesday... unless it flys directly to cincinatti or columbus... I'm located in Toledo so anywhere in OHIO would be amazing.


mine says:
7 Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 13:24

6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 21:44

It looks like mine might have departed with yours? but mine had already cleared customs which I assumed meant it was already in the US.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Here is what DHL told me when I called. They said they only send the customs paperwork to Cincinnati and that my monitor was still in Korea waiting for customs to clear it..Then once it was cleared my monitor would go from Korea to China to LA. Then to my house.. That could have been my own special case but mine was never actually in Cincinnati.. As soon as it said mine cleared customs I got it the next morning..


You could be right, and probably are. As I said, I assumed it was already in the US if it cleared customs. Doesn't really make sense to me that something could be cleared without them having the item infront of them, but im not sure how all this works.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenderwind*
> 
> mine says:
> 7 Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 13:24
> 
> 6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 21:44
> 
> It looks like mine might have departed with yours? but mine had already cleared customs which I assumed meant it was already in the US.
> You could be right, and probably are. As I said, I assumed it was already in the US if it cleared customs. Doesn't really make sense to me that something could be cleared without them having the item infront of them, but im not sure how all this works.


Ya I asked them why does it says it's in Cincinnati and they said they only send the paperwork there.. Which I also though was weird.. But when I asked when It would be delivered they told me tomorrow.. Try calling and ask.. Like I said they could have been mine only for some reason. I thought it was weird since I am in so Cal why would they send it 2500 miles past my location to Cincinnati since it flies right over California lol..


----------



## Sumner Rol

Mine says it was cleared by customs as well. Pretty fast for free international shipping


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sumner Rol*
> 
> 
> 
> Mine says it was cleared by customs as well. Pretty fast for free international shipping


So after looking at my old tracking it looks like they send the paperwork first and then the monitor arrives in Cincinnati later..Here is my tracking..As you will see when my monitor actually arrived in Cincinnati..So number 8 is when your monitor is actually in the US..

Friday, May 24, 2013 Location Time
17 Delivered - Signed for by : JOSH ORANGE 10:56

16 With delivery courier IRVINE, CA - USA 10:13

15 Arrived at Delivery Facility in IRVINE - USA IRVINE, CA - USA 09:31

14 Departed Facility in LOS ANGELES GATEWAY - USA LOS ANGELES GATEWAY, CA - USA 08:46

13 Processed at LOS ANGELES GATEWAY - USA LOS ANGELES GATEWAY, CA - USA 08:46

12 Arrived at Sort Facility LOS ANGELES GATEWAY - USA LOS ANGELES GATEWAY, CA - USA 06:51

11 Departed Facility in CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 05:41

10 Processed at CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 04:12

9 Clearance processing complete at CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 03:34

8 Arrived at Sort Facility CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 03:31

Thursday, May 23, 2013 Location Time
7 Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 13:56

6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 21:57

5 Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 20:40

4 Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 20:35

3 Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 19:30

2 Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 19:29

1 Shipment picked up


----------



## iamwardicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sumner Rol*
> 
> 
> 
> Mine says it was cleared by customs as well. Pretty fast for free international shipping


Yup, my shipping info is for 13:21 in Cinci - OH - just a few minutes faster than yours. i'll pray for friday... but likely monday or tuesday.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Im glad to see so many people continuing on this thread. I haven't been free lately to be keeping up with reading all posts.

As a side note, I was contacted by accessorieswhole who wanted me to write a review and fan thread for one of their new monitors, regardless of if it was actually a good monitor or not. Their dishonesty kind of puts me off.. I won't be recommending them as a seller anymore as a result. Information has and will be forwarded to the mods about this


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamwardicus*
> 
> Yup, my shipping info is for 13:21 in Cinci - OH - just a few minutes faster than yours. i'll pray for friday... but likely monday or tuesday.


I bet you guys will get them tomorrow..


----------



## CATACLYSMMM

Got the U2713HM and the colors are perfect, but there is noticeable lag. I may end up selling my U2412M and grabbing one of these OC'able Koreans at some point.


----------



## OneGun

Did you guys see the Youtube review from Menacing Tuba on the Qnix?


----------



## YouSirName

So I decided to take a look at Qnix's website (which has an awful layout by the way) and found that there may be some truth behind the "Pixel Perfect" versions on Ebay. Qnix lists the 2710 multiple times on their product page which I found to be quite odd. In total there are four listings of the 2710, each with a subtle change. First is the standard 2710. Next is the 2710 including DisplayPort. The other two are 2710 "integrity" versions. The first of the "integrity" versions is the standard 2710 and the second is the 2710 DisplayPort version. Integrity seemed like an odd word so I took the original Korean text and pasted it into Bing translator as opposed to the Google webpage translator I was using. Bing determined the text to be "zero defect" in English. This doesn't confirm the "pixel perfect" versions as being better, this just tells us the "Pixel Perfect" slogan isn't being deployed as a marketing scheme by the Ebay sellers (although it could be a scheme used by Qnix).

If you'd like to look for yourself, you can click here to go to their website. To actually click a product link you need to right click, inspect element, and delete the "copyright" image preventing you from clicking anything.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouSirName*
> 
> So I decided to take a look at Qnix's website (which has an awful layout by the way) and found that there may be some truth behind the "Pixel Perfect" versions on Ebay. Qnix lists the 2710 multiple times on their product page which I found to be quite odd. In total there are four listings of the 2710, each with a subtle change. First is the standard 2710. Next is the 2710 including DisplayPort. The other two are 2710 "integrity" versions. The first of the "integrity" versions is the standard 2710 and the second is the 2710 DisplayPort version. Integrity seemed like an odd word so I took the original Korean text and pasted it into Bing translator as opposed to the Google webpage translator I was using. Bing determined the text to be "zero defect" in English. This doesn't confirm the "pixel perfect" versions as being better, this just tells us the "Pixel Perfect" slogan isn't being deployed as a marketing scheme by the Ebay sellers (although it could be a scheme used by Qnix).
> 
> If you'd like to look for yourself, you can click here to go to their website. To actually click a product link you need to right click, inspect element, and delete the "copyright" image preventing you from clicking anything.


Its already been confirmed its real. Pixel Perfect comes with more logos/sticker that states pixel perfect from the manufacturers. Go read the past 300 pages.


----------



## YouSirName

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Its already been confirmed its real. Pixel Perfect comes with more logos/sticker that states pixel perfect from the manufacturers. Go read the past 300 pages.


I'm not going to read 300 pages. The FAQ section makes it out to seem like the Pixel Perfect version is identical to the normal version.


----------



## andygully

i was not charged at all iv had my monitor around 2 weeks and had no letter asking me to pay duty. Well so far


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YouSirName*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Its already been confirmed its real. Pixel Perfect comes with more logos/sticker that states pixel perfect from the manufacturers. Go read the past 300 pages.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not going to read 300 pages. The FAQ section makes it out to seem like the Pixel Perfect version is identical to the normal version.
Click to expand...

Statistics of those who have purchased and reported back suggest that. Unless things have changed, I recommend looking for a seller that is doing that 0-2 dead pixel Promotion. Forget the pixel perfect


----------



## andygully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Im glad to see so many people continuing on this thread. I haven't been free lately to be keeping up with reading all posts.
> 
> As a side note, I was contacted by accessorieswhole who wanted me to write a review and fan thread for one of their new monitors, regardless of if it was actually a good monitor or not. Their dishonesty kind of puts me off.. I won't be recommending them as a seller anymore as a result. Information has and will be forwarded to the mods about this


was they offering a free monitor? haha if so i would have taken it then wrote a true review of it


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You apparently want to tape underneath the metal frame, once removed, around the bleed areas and yes possibly also some on the panel itself. Frankly, it's really more trial and error, from the sound of it, and once you have it open and are actually looking at the parts and construction then this all becomes a lot more clear. There's not much to them in there, really. You can also turn it on before it's put back together to see what effect your taping has had. That said, even though I have some bleed and had mine open to remove the stand it was obvious delicate work to take off the frame and I have not yet attempted myself.


Thanks for replying, wrigleyvillain.

Yeah, I gess it will become more clear after opening. However I did find some other websites which informs you how to fix BLB. For example this one.

In general it seems you have to put electrical tape on the edge of the panel and around the metal frame. Did I understand this correctly?
Oh well, guess I will see for myself when I open it up tonight or so. Didn't have the time yesterday, had to go out for diner with the misses.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Statistics of those who have purchased and reported back suggest that. Unless things have changed, I recommend looking for a seller that is doing that 0-2 dead pixel Promotion. Forget the pixel perfect


Actually I would prefer a no BLB monitor. I can live with a couple of dead pixels. Rather have a monitor with 0 BLB.


----------



## Quiksmage

Alright, here's my story.

I bought the 27 inch pixel perfect QNIX from green-sum.
It arrived amazingly fast. 2 business days like most of you.
I first tested for panel play, which mine had quite a bit of at the top middle and bottom middle of the panel. I turned on the device to verify it was pixel perfect. It is indeed pixel perfect, no dead or stuck pixels.
I tested the backlight bleed. It is quite bad. It even has some red coloring to it on the edges and some really bright bleed along the bottom.
https://photos-1.dropbox.com/t/0/AAAN_IDzW7f3Cz5PEpuCgypBbxuD5YWBhGPNl174zD3LKg/12/58097858/jpeg/32x32/3/_/1/2/20130619_195640.jpg/e4lX_hGcZilS8HCDthvNEHGl_4EmI_cieUFXyJDGOYc?size=1024x768
That picture is without the front panel part on so I could check if my taping was working or not, which it wasn't.

I opened this baby up to see what I could do for fixing both problems.

I kind of made a few scratches here and there trying to take off the front panel, prying open the frame. Take your time so you don't mess it up aesthetically if that matters to you.
I didn't notice there were 2 screws near the middle bottom of the panel so I had a fight with my monitor where I couldn't figure out why the plastic tabs weren't coming loose and letting me take off the monitor frame. So info for anyone that might be attempting this soon. 2 screws on the outer bottom edge and 2 near the stem on the back of the monitor.

(Note:Those side plates that you unscrew after opening the front bezel are hell. When you try to put the thing back together those plates just don't want to stay vertical and keep falling in. Proved to be really annoying!)

I tried to fix that backlight bleed by taping along the areas where there was visible space between the panel and the metal holder. This proved to do nothing. I'm really not sure how to approach backlight bleed that isn't actually leaking through the front of the panel. Maybe one of you can help me with that. Applying pressure to the red area of the backlight bleed appears to make it go back to a normal color, however no amount of pressure on any of the bleeding areas actually fixed the bleed even temporarily.

Next up was trying to fix the play. I couldn't use the same method as listed in the OP for fixing play as his was on side. I found that there are 2 spacers at the top middle and bottom middle and direct middle of the panel. These are like styrofoam I guess and the bottom one even came all the way off (it was held on with very cheap glue). I stuck that back on and put a few layers of electrical tape on the actual spacers. (this actually helped a bit and the panel moves a little less. I may put some more on there later, but the play really isn't that big of a deal, just aesthetics.

I put the monitor back together and crossed my fingers that I hadn't screwed up anything on my monitor in this process (first time I opened up a monitor).

Yay, everything turned on fine. A little defeated that I couldn't fix that pretty apparent black light bleed, I moved on to overclocking.

I ran it at 96 hz first and it works great. When I put it up to 120 hz I got horizontal artifact bars appearing randomly. I might try some other steps later, but i'm pretty happy at 96 all the same. Any ideas on the backlight bleed?
Thanks for reading.


----------



## finalheaven

Quicksmage

Some BLB is fixable with the tape mod some are not. If it's caused by the light leaking through the metal frame then its fixable with the tape mod. If its caused by uneven flatness of the entire panel itself then its not fixable with the tape mod.

With that in mind sometimes the BLB is caused by the metal frame itself. After you take of the metal frame, connect the monitor and turn it on to see if there's any BLB. Sometimes it is the metal frame that is pushing up against the LCD that causes the BLB. Compare how much BLB there is with the metal frame on and off. It is safe to turn on the monitor with the black plastic and the metal frame off. With that in mind, remember there's a reason why these monitors are so cheap.


----------



## Sannakji

About to order a Qnix... been saying that for about two weeks I know







But there seems to be so many problems with them regarding BLB, much more than Crossovers! I'm still unsure of whether to go matte or not... I wonder if that would make a difference with BLB and how prevalent it is...


----------



## monkeys

Originally Posted by iamwardicus

I apperently ordered one 2 nights ago in a very sleepy state that morning... I don't ever remember clicking Buy Now but I apperently did.... Wife isn't angry at least... I'll share the experience with mine whenever it arrives. Seller was green-sum, and the order was for the pixel-perfect one. Hopefully it's a good unit with very little BLB

That's how I ordered my first one, couldn't sleep one Sunday night at 3am. I had looked at it on the Laptop before, when it came on, that was the default pg on explorer, so I clicked buy and went to sleep. LOL at least I remembered...maybe you do but fear of wifey installed a mental block..








Did you remember to get a cheap or pixel perfect?
Just had a delivery on my 2nd, trying to refrain from restless nights.


----------



## Halven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> About to order a Qnix... been saying that for about two weeks I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But there seems to be so many problems with them regarding BLB


You and me both, im 1 click away from ordering it and have been for a few days now but seeing how people has to open it up and actually use tape to fix the BLB and the position of the panel just makes it less appealing.
I sure am in a dilemma between these 3 ->

*QNIX* - cheap and can do 96hz+ but bad quality, probably BLB and bad warranty.

*HP ZR2740W or Asus PB278Q* - Double the price, only 60hz but good quality and good warranty and if there's BLB i can easily send it back and get a new one.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Thanks for replying, wrigleyvillain.
> 
> Yeah, I gess it will become more clear after opening. However I did find some other websites which informs you how to fix BLB. For example this one.
> 
> In general it seems you have to put electrical tape on the edge of the panel and around the metal frame. Did I understand this correctly?
> Oh well, guess I will see for myself when I open it up tonight or so. Didn't have the time yesterday, had to go out for diner with the misses.


I actually taped inside of the metal frame.


----------



## iamwardicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Originally Posted by iamwardicus
> 
> I apperently ordered one 2 nights ago in a very sleepy state that morning... I don't ever remember clicking Buy Now but I apperently did.... Wife isn't angry at least... I'll share the experience with mine whenever it arrives. Seller was green-sum, and the order was for the pixel-perfect one. Hopefully it's a good unit with very little BLB
> 
> That's how I ordered my first one, couldn't sleep one Sunday night at 3am. I had looked at it on the Laptop before, when it came on, that was the default pg on explorer, so I clicked buy and went to sleep. LOL at least I remembered...maybe you do but fear of wifey installed a mental block..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you remember to get a cheap or pixel perfect?
> Just had a delivery on my 2nd, trying to refrain from restless nights.


No, i was just so tired I remember very little of that particular day of the week... It sucks.... I got a Pixel-Perfect from Green-Sum. It "arrived" in Dayton Ohio at 7am.... If it arrived tonight I'd be surprised as hell as that's a 3 hour drive... Expecting tomorrow *shrug*


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah inside/underneath the frame...which seems a bit weird to me because where my bleed spots occur the frame appears to be much tighter/more flush against the panel. But, again, I have not actually had my frame off yet which could change my impression(s).

As to the AW review thing this just further shows that all these sellers are *exactly the same* outside of the quality of their units potentially. They are all "dishonest" or underhanded when such serves their interest financially. Even hulustar with one of the better reps told some dude to kick in the box and blame DHL so they would pay return shipping.

Edit: Oh it also proves they read these threads but I already pretty much knew that.


----------



## chaos_being

I have some additional information and some possible insight regarding my "pixel perfect" monitor with a stuck pixel. I left the monitor running a LCD Fix website yesterday which runs a full screen snow/test pattern. When I got home nothing had changed, so I decided to stop wasting electricity and turned it off. This morning, I turned the computer back on to check Ebay for a response...and no stuck pixel. Hmm. I got cautiously optimistic, but remembered that when I first turned the monitor on I didn't see any stuck pixels either. So, I left it for about 30 minutes, came back, and the same pixel was stuck on red again. I'm thinking that whatever testing process they do for perfect pixel monitors (in the factory, as mine had the red sticker on the box) must not be terribly vigorous, as mine looks perfect at first but becomes flawed once it is on for a bit.

Anyways, green-sum contacted me again last night and offered to either refund me the difference between a perfect pixel model and one that is not ($20,) or asked me to reply back if I wanted to do a return and he would tell me the next steps. Seeing as how the monitor I'm trying to upgrade from does not have any pixel issues, I'm going to try to get it replaced with another pixel perfect one. I remember seeing a few people who did a replacement on this thread (I read the whole thing before clicking "buy,") but not the process. Is there someone reading this who had to do a return who can give me some insight? I'm assuming the seller would be the one paying to ship the monitor back, not me...after all, the product is faulty. Paying to ship back to Korea would not be fun. If I can get one without stuck pixels, I think I'll like this monitor, crummy stand, blb and all


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaos_being*
> 
> I have some additional information and some possible insight regarding my "pixel perfect" monitor with a stuck pixel. I left the monitor running a LCD Fix website yesterday which runs a full screen snow/test pattern. When I got home nothing had changed, so I decided to stop wasting electricity and turned it off. This morning, I turned the computer back on to check Ebay for a response...and no stuck pixel. Hmm. I got cautiously optimistic, but remembered that when I first turned the monitor on I didn't see any stuck pixels either. So, I left it for about 30 minutes, came back, and the same pixel was stuck on red again. I'm thinking that whatever testing process they do for perfect pixel monitors (in the factory, as mine had the red sticker on the box) must not be terribly vigorous, as mine looks perfect at first but becomes flawed once it is on for a bit.
> 
> Anyways, green-sum contacted me again last night and offered to either refund me the difference between a perfect pixel model and one that is not ($20,) or asked me to reply back if I wanted to do a return and he would tell me the next steps. Seeing as how the monitor I'm trying to upgrade from does not have any pixel issues, I'm going to try to get it replaced with another pixel perfect one. I remember seeing a few people who did a replacement on this thread (I read the whole thing before clicking "buy,") but not the process. Is there someone reading this who had to do a return who can give me some insight? I'm assuming the seller would be the one paying to ship the monitor back, not me...after all, the product is faulty. Paying to ship back to Korea would not be fun. If I can get one without stuck pixels, I think I'll like this monitor, crummy stand, blb and all


Ask him to pay for return shipping and send a perfect pixel replacement asap (within 48 hours) or you'll open an ebay claim. There have been reports of sellers trying to "time out" the claim so you should be pretty blunt.

It also would help to add "I'm reporting this on forums so if this goes smoothly I'll tell them" - maybe not in those exact words but something to that effect.


----------



## andygully

just a quick question i currently have a his 7950 iceq boost and what to no if its worth going to a 770 with this monitor?


----------



## EniGma1987

I think people are being too picky and unreasonable when they order a pixel perfect version. Sure we all want every pixel to be perfect, but if you read then you will see that the policy is almost always that there will be 0-2 pixels bad for these versions as well as guaranteed no bright pixels, while regular models can have up to 5 bad pixels. To make such a fuss that you have 1 bad pixel on the whole monitor made up of 3,692,160 pixels when you bought a known defective panel is just silly.


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> just a quick question i currently have a his 7950 iceq boost and what to no if its worth going to a 770 with this monitor?


No, read some reviews.


----------



## Ronin1

For anyone that has an sli setup, would you need 2 sli bridge like crossfire?


----------



## AntiStupid

How's the heat output on these monitors? I grabbed the Auria 27" from micrcenter (who were kind enough to let me open the box and find one with perfect pixels) and the CCFL backlight makes the monitor put out a lot of heat, so much so that it actually makes the area around my desk uncomfortably hot after being on for a while. I'm heavily considering selling the auria and picking up one of these.


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronin1*
> 
> For anyone that has an sli setup, would you need 2 sli bridge like crossfire?


No, and no crossfire doesnt need 2 bridges.
Come on people, this topic is not the place for such simple questions.
We have google for that.


----------



## Ronin1

I mean for this qnix monitor as OP suggested having 2 crossfire bridges in order to OC this monitor. Now, does it relate to sli as well?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I think people are being too picky and unreasonable when they order a pixel perfect version. Sure we all want every pixel to be perfect, but if you read then you will see that the policy is almost always that there will be 0-2 pixels bad for these versions as well as guaranteed no bright pixels, while regular models can have up to 5 bad pixels. To make such a fuss that you have 1 bad pixel on the whole monitor made up of 3,692,160 pixels when you bought a known defective panel is just silly.


Agreed, it's annoying when people buy perfect pixel, get 1 dead pixel, and complain. They need to read the product listings and ask on anything that is even slightly ambiguous before pressing buy.

That said there are some legitimate cliams - e.g. when pixel perfect has 2 dead pixel or 1 stuck pixel.
Another problem is that green-sum has a very different pixel perfect policy that some people don't read.


----------



## chaos_being

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Ask him to pay for return shipping and send a perfect pixel replacement asap (within 48 hours) or you'll open an ebay claim. There have been reports of sellers trying to "time out" the claim so you should be pretty blunt.
> 
> It also would help to add "I'm reporting this on forums so if this goes smoothly I'll tell them" - maybe not in those exact words but something to that effect.


I've been polite so far and so has he so I'm hoping to not have to resort to an ebay claim (but will if I have to.) I'm going to reply asking for a replacement when I get home later.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I think people are being too picky and unreasonable when they order a pixel perfect version. Sure we all want every pixel to be perfect, but if you read then you will see that the policy is almost always that there will be 0-2 pixels bad for these versions as well as guaranteed no bright pixels, while regular models can have up to 5 bad pixels. To make such a fuss that you have 1 bad pixel on the whole monitor made up of 3,692,160 pixels when you bought a known defective panel is just silly.


I wish my pixel perfect came with just a dead pixel, I'd be fine with that...honestly how would one even see it? Having a bright pixel however is unfailingly noticable and I don't think it's silly to complain about that. Yeah it's a cheap monitor (mine has all the other "features," blb, panel play, crummy stand, along with a loose power plug inside the monitor,) but those are livable for the price.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> No, and no crossfire doesnt need 2 bridges.
> Come on people, this topic is not the place for such simple questions.
> We have google for that.


Actually crossfire does need two bridges to achieve 1440p at 120hz. So before you start yelling at people make sure you at least know what you are talking about.. And no nvidia only needs one bridge..


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Actually crossfire does need two bridges to achieve 1440p at 120hz. So before you start yelling at people make sure you at least know what you are talking about.. And no nvidia only needs one bridge..


That's news for me, but such questions still are simple google questions.
And since AMD cards all come with a bridge, he would've figured it out anyway


----------



## Ronin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Actually crossfire does need two bridges to achieve 1440p at 120hz. So before you start yelling at people make sure you at least know what you are talking about.. And no nvidia only needs one bridge..


That's the answer I was looking for, thanks.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> That's news for me, but such questions still are simple google questions.
> And since AMD cards all come with a bridge, he would've figured it out anyway


Depends on the cards in question. 7870's only have room for one crossfire bridge (at least the ones I had) and I got 120hz at 1440p no problem.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> That's news for me, but such questions still are simple google questions.
> And since AMD cards all come with a bridge, he would've figured it out anyway


Here is a quote from ToastyX from the driver patcher site..

Requirements:
Windows Vista or later
5000-series GPU or newer
CrossFire requires two bridges if the pixel clock is greater than 320 MHz. This is only possible with cards that have two connectors. It will not work properly with more than two cards.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Here is a quote from ToastyX from the driver patcher site..
> 
> Requirements:
> Windows Vista or later
> 5000-series GPU or newer
> CrossFire requires two bridges if the pixel clock is greater than 320 MHz. This is only possible with cards that have two connectors. It will not work properly with more than two cards.


I've read that, but I wonder how outdated that is. Like I've said, I had cards that only had one bridge, and it worked perfectly.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> I've read that, but I wonder how outdated that is. Like I've said, I had cards that only had one bridge, and it worked perfectly.


I know of issues of people with the 79series cards where games would crash and such with only 1 bridge. As soon as they added second bridge the issues were gone..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I know of issues of people with the 79series cards where games would crash and such with only 1 bridge. As soon as they added second bridge the issues were gone..


So I'd assume that its 79x series cards that have this issue at least. Might not effect 78x series cards.


----------



## dir_d

I game at 120hz and at about 100Hz my screen was black and i needed a second bridge to go past it. 96Hz no problem on 1 bridge.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> So I'd assume that its 79x series cards that have this issue at least. Might not effect 78x series cards.


yes I personally have only heard of it affecting 79 series cards..


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> yes I personally have only heard of it affecting 79 series cards..


Ah more people should know that, not the generic, 5000 and higher thing.

Also almost didn't recognize you because you changed your avatar lol.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> Ah more people should know that, not the generic, 5000 and higher thing.
> 
> Also almost didn't recognize you because you changed your avatar lol.


I found a picture of the cartoon me..I only have a working left arm and my right arm is really small and my left arm is buff cause I work it out lol.. So I had to change it.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I found a picture of the cartoon me..I only have a working left arm and my right arm is really small and my left arm is buff cause I work it out lol.. So I had to change it.


There's a reason quagmire arm is that big though..haha.


----------



## AntiStupid

Glossy PP Qnix on the way to my door!







Darn this community and its ability to make my computer feel incomplete on a weekly basis.


----------



## Screams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AntiStupid*
> 
> Glossy PP Qnix on the way to my door!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darn this community and its ability to make my computer feel incomplete on a weekly basis.


Verified, i too have a glossy PP Qnix on the way, currently gone from south korea to China -.-

This will be the 2nd korean monitor i have bought because of this website =)

Also added 16gb more ram (32gb) just to try and make my pc feel more overclock worthy. ^^


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> There's a reason quagmire arm is that big though..haha.


Ya I know.. He just found out there was Internet porn haha.. He didn't leave his house for weeks..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Giggity


----------



## mikekink

Decided to get that 30 dollar gateway stand (link) while its still available. Got tired of the wobbly nightmare stand. I didn't have high expectations but its very nice for 30 bucks, it also has 4 powered usb ports which can come in handy.




Took the bezel off so I can remove the entire stand, some of the tabs broke but didnt seem to affect anything when I put it back together.



Came with the screws which were just the right length.



You can go into portrait mode though you would have to tilt the monitor a bit, it is to big to be completely vertical.

Overall its better then stock.


----------



## Sumner Rol

My QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" 2560x1440 WQHD PLS arrived today (Thursday) from green-sum (ordered on Monday). Unfortunately it arrived just before I had to leave for work so I didn't get to mess with it much. Got it set up and didn't notice any dead pixels or noticeable bleeding. Of course I had to see how far it would overclock. Tested OK for 120hz but had some lines flickering across the screen after I applied the resolution. Dropped it to 90hz and fired up Skyrim with no issues.

The only thing so far I disliked was the base, which was rather cheap IMO and I don't like how it tilts the monitor. But for $289 I can't seriously complain about that. Can't wait to do some real gaming on it tomorrow. I'll post a pic then so I can be officially in the club. If you're debating getting this monitor just pull the trigger; I'm glad I did


----------



## killerfrenzi

does anyone know if this monitor stand will work? http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2

I'm about to order it with this cable http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2 (assuming that's the dvi-d I want for better oc)


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> does anyone know if this monitor stand will work? http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2
> 
> I'm about to order it with this cable http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2 (assuming that's the dvi-d I want for better oc)


Yes it will work.

I hope you have the correct screws for it.

If you don't, go to your local hardware store and pick up four of each:
M4 Metric Machine Screws
M4 Metric Hex Nuts


----------



## killerfrenzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Yes it will work.
> 
> I hope you have the correct screws for it.
> 
> If you don't, go to your local hardware store and pick up four of each:
> M4 Metric Machine Screws
> M4 Metric Hex Nuts


It doesn't come with screws? coming from monoprice, I hope they supply it
that's also the right cable?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> It doesn't come with screws? coming from monoprice, I hope they supply it
> that's also the right cable?


It doesn't say that it does in the description...

Yes, that's the right cable.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> It doesn't come with screws? coming from monoprice, I hope they supply it
> that's also the right cable?


No, its not the right cable. Although you can get that if you want and it may let you overclock perfectly well. The most well known Monoprice DVI cable for this stuff is the 24AWG model, the one you linked is the 28AWG one.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2687&seq=1&format=2


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> No, its not the right cable. Although you can get that if you want and it may let you overclock perfectly well. The most well known Monoprice DVI cable for this stuff is the 24AWG model, the one you linked is the 28AWG one.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2687&seq=1&format=2


Cables are hit and miss also as my stock one works better then my 24awg monoprice one..


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cor35vet*
> 
> The panel used in my glossy QNIX QX2710 is a LTM270DL02, on very low brightness the image doesn't flicker so I assume that this isn't a PWM but a voltage regulated backlight.
> I use mine without the front bezel and that ID is on the metal frame on the bottom frame.
> There is a sticker on the back aswell with details on it but I'm too lazy to check that now, I think a user here has allready made pictures of it.
> If you have problems with burn-in then lower your refresh rate.
> 
> Oh and just my thoughts to all that talking about SVP.
> I personally dislike motion interpolation as it degrades quality of video in terms of sharpness and can screw up pretty often. And I think many can agree with this.
> It also uses too much resources, I recommend using KCP instead for original video experience or mplayer2 + gl3 renderer on *NIX systems (Linux/OS X/BSD).
> Anime might get advantages from these interpolation techniques but it'll still loose quality and detail.
> 
> Also, all these 120Hz and so on crap LCD TVs use these techniques aswell to screw up video quality to make it look more smooth.
> The panels are almost always refreshing with 60Hz.
> Please don't fall for this and use a non-flawed technology such as Plasma (Panasonic is leading here)
> Just my 2 cents.
> 
> tl;dr SVP is not worth it. Use a Plasma TV to enjoy videos.


For anyone who needs to sharpen his Movies while using Madvr/SVP...
I use this :
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/accelerate_x_264_1080p_movies_over_the_gpu_guide,6.html

Just pick : Sharpen Complex & Sharpen, and If you want to see what diffrence this makes, hit ctrl+P to turn it on/off...the details....


----------



## tattashot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> Decided to get that 30 dollar gateway stand (link) while its still available. Got tired of the wobbly nightmare stand. I didn't have high expectations but its very nice for 30 bucks, it also has 4 powered usb ports which can come in handy.
> 
> Took the bezel off so I can remove the entire stand, some of the tabs broke but didnt seem to affect anything when I put it back together.
> 
> 
> 
> Came with the screws which were just the right length.
> 
> You can go into portrait mode though you would have to tilt the monitor a bit, it is to big to be completely vertical.
> 
> Overall its better then stock.


So is it confirmed these monitors are mountable with vesa mounts? I was worried because some where saying that the mounting holes wouldn't be able to support the weight of the monitor.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tattashot*
> 
> So is it confirmed these monitors are mountable with vesa mounts? I was worried because some where saying that the mounting holes wouldn't be able to support the weight of the monitor.


Yes they can be mounted with a 100 by 100 vesa mount..


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I found a picture of the cartoon me..I only have a working left arm and my right arm is really small and my left arm is buff cause I work it out lol.. So I had to change it.












http://www.strengthfighter.com/2012/04/matthias-schlitte-popeye-arm-wrestling.html


----------



## Coolwaters

add me too

Coolwaters
QNIX
QX2710
120Hz
dream-seller
~$318 perfect pixel
no issues but slight yellowish BLB but cant tell unless the screen is black in dark room.

i hit 120hz with my gtx 670 but only 96hz with my gtx 550 ti.

i think if everyone gets a better GPU 120hz should be easy.
also i didnt even need to unlock my pixel clock. but i did just in case.


----------



## chaos_being

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> Decided to get that 30 dollar gateway stand (link) while its still available. Got tired of the wobbly nightmare stand. I didn't have high expectations but its very nice for 30 bucks, it also has 4 powered usb ports which can come in handy.
> 
> ...
> 
> You can go into portrait mode though you would have to tilt the monitor a bit, it is to big to be completely vertical.
> 
> Overall its better then stock.


Nice stand option, I'll have to keep that in mind.

I got another reply, a request for DHL to ship my faulty monitor back is in at no additional cost to me. Hopefully my 2nd one is better! As an aside, this one OC'ed to 96hz with the stock cable (120hz resulted in flickering scanlines when I brought up a Steam window,) and at that rate motion blur is only a little worse than my old 1ms TN panel (more blur, but feels more "responsive" if that makes sense.) Scrolling on the desktop is noticeably better. I've only tried a few games on it, Batman Arkham Asylum (yes I am behind on games) runs pretty flawlessly at 1440p with AA/AF disabled, but Skyrim has some noticeable stutter at the same settings. If I can get a good replacement I guess I'll be looking into replacing my trusty GTX570...and so the money snowballing begins







Not looking forwards to tearing down my loop to get the card out though...


----------



## David164v8

Hey, has anyone from the UK ordered one of these? How much did customs charge you?

I did look at the section in the FAQ, and it seems like I could be paying anywhere from £0 to £100







Can I just ask them to mark it as below £30 or something? Or can it be marked as a gift?


----------



## ThinkPositive

Just received my Qnix qx2710 like 10mn ago, so far 0 dead/stuck/bright pixel, minor bleeding on bottom of the screen (might be fixed)
(ordered from green-sum)

96hz : no artifact, brightness ok
120hz : no artifact, but the brightness is kinda dark.
130hz : horizontal red lines artifact

Just so you know, I got charged by DHL of 146€ total (54€ for customs, and 92€ VAT), I'm in France.
and about 4business days to get delivered.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThinkPositive*
> 
> Just received my Qnix qx2710 like 10mn ago, so far 0 dead/stuck/bright pixel, minor bleeding on bottom of the screen (might be fixed)
> (ordered from green-sum)
> 
> 96hz : no artifact, brightness ok
> 120hz : no artifact, but the brightness is kinda dark.
> 130hz : horizontal red lines artifact
> 
> Just so you know, I got charged by DHL of 146€ total (54€ for customs, and 92€ VAT), I'm in France.
> and about 4business days to get delivered.


I don't think you should've been charged customs - afaik the EU has a free trade agreement with south korea.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tattashot*
> 
> So is it confirmed these monitors are mountable with vesa mounts? I was worried because some where saying that the mounting holes wouldn't be able to support the weight of the monitor.


Huh? These displays are light as hell. If that was the case the chinsy stock stub would not have been able to hold them either. Yeah I got the Gateway stand too. it rocks for $30. Only negative at all is it doesn't match color-wise.


----------



## ThinkPositive

Qnix qx2710 (perfect pixel)
seller : green-sum
0 dead/stuck/bright pixels
minor light bleeding on bottom (might try the tape method)
120hz auto, no artifact, kinda dark brightness
130hz auto, horizontal red lines artifact.
paid 309$ (+146€ custom/Vat)

joinning the club


----------



## wrigleyvillain

If your bleed really only on bottom you can try just removing the screws first. Just the middle ones if the spots are essentially on either side of the QNIX logo in middle, which is pretty common. I was able to lessen in intensity and size a pretty bad spot on my left.


----------



## ThinkPositive

Just did that (not totaly unscrewed it, but few turns) and it worked like a charm, no more bleeding yeay o//)


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I don't think you should've been charged customs - afaik the EU has a free trade agreement with south korea.


nope.

Just make sure you let the seller put a low price on the package, and my seller sent it as a gift.
I had to pay 60 euros.


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThinkPositive*
> 
> 
> Qnix qx2710 (perfect pixel)
> seller : green-sum
> 0 dead/stuck/bright pixels
> minor light bleeding on bottom (might try the tape method)
> 120hz auto, no artifact, kinda dark brightness
> 130hz auto, horizontal red lines artifact.
> paid 309$ (+146€ custom/Vat)
> 
> joinning the club


Congrats....Mine Just left Hong Kong.


----------



## andygully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> No, read some reviews.


ok thank you i have forgotten that idea think ill crossfire


----------



## andygully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerfrenzi*
> 
> does anyone know if this monitor stand will work? http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2
> 
> I'm about to order it with this cable http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2 (assuming that's the dvi-d I want for better oc)


yes mines currently attached to this stand


----------



## HHawk

Strange... I did all necessary steps in regards to overclocking my QNIX. And it works, however when I reboot my PC the refresh rate is set back to 60 Hz.
Should I remove the 60Hz profile as well? And leave only the refreshrate I use (which is 100 Hz)?

Please advice...


----------



## andygully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Hey, has anyone from the UK ordered one of these? How much did customs charge you?
> 
> I did look at the section in the FAQ, and it seems like I could be paying anywhere from £0 to £100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I just ask them to mark it as below £30 or something? Or can it be marked as a gift?


hulustar marked mine as a republished monitor and it cost $80 i didn't get charged a penny


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Hey, has anyone from the UK ordered one of these? How much did customs charge you?
> 
> I did look at the section in the FAQ, and it seems like I could be paying anywhere from £0 to £100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I just ask them to mark it as below £30 or something? Or can it be marked as a gift?


Depends on the seller. In my case, Dreamseller refused to mark down the value or describe it as gift/refurbished and I respect him/her for wanting to do things correctly; unfortunately however that meant a £48 charge (VAT + £10 Courier's fee) for me









There was no mention of Customs & Excise duties; as previously stated, AFAIK there is a FTA between EU & SK (tho there was a row about some electronic goods 'dumping', think it was TVs tho, not monitors







)...


----------



## wntrsnowg

I cant find any information on these, but assuming it works with the vesa mount, do you think this could hold up the 27" qnix? http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?index=0&sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=200935861875


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Strange... I did all necessary steps in regards to overclocking my QNIX. And it works, however when I reboot my PC the refresh rate is set back to 60 Hz.
> Should I remove the 60Hz profile as well? And leave only the refreshrate I use (which is 100 Hz)?
> 
> Please advice...


No do not remove the 60Hz one or you are hosed when you try to update your driver and it cant switch back to 60 to do so. This problem most likely caused by the 100Hz one not being on top in CRU (assuming that's what you are using). If neither of those things are it then just keep troubleshooting/messing with it.


----------



## Spartan F8

FYI guys

I just updated to the latest nvidia drivers and was able to get a bit more stability in terms of scan lines on a grey or light blue surface. Also at higher refresh rates(mainly 144hz) i got a bit better uniformity. Might just be me but i wanted to share and see if anyone else gets the same results. I mainly bring this up since we have repeatedly seen this be the opposite with new drivers.


----------



## theclash150

For anyone who bought from green-sum who lives in the US, how long did it take to arrive?


----------



## monkeys

I feel that I can give a view after 3 wks usage, a Pixel perfect Qnix matte from Red Cap, Pixel perfect, slight bleed , opened and frame was a bit bent, straightened it and v v low bleed, just about noticeable in pitch darkness but can't see in normal use.
Now almost perfect, may tape it but may never do.
Friendly, and efficient.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Plan on buying this today or very soon:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11

Pixel Perfect QNIX QX2710 from Green-Sum.

Questions:

Does it come with the right DVI cable? If so, I see people posting Monoprice cables, why? Do they hold more bandwidth and are better for overclocking? Because overclocking is a big reason for me getting this specific model.

Is Green-Sum's PP policy the "1 center, 5 outter" or is it 100% no defective pixels?

Does anyone know if that monitor I listed is one B grade monitors? Seems cheap for a PP version.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Plan on buying this today or very soon:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11
> 
> Pixel Perfect QNIX QX2710 from Green-Sum.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> Does it come with the right DVI cable? If so, I see people posting Monoprice cables, why? Do they hold more bandwidth and are better for overclocking? Because overclocking is a big reason for me getting this specific model.
> 
> Is Green-Sum's PP policy the "1 center, 5 outter" or is it 100% no defective pixels?


I assume it should come with the proper DVI cable. The reason people upgrade to a different cable is because they buy a cable with thicker gauge wire. The reason for this is that larger wire gauge can transfer signal better (at least in theory, really it is just capable of transferring more power through the cable). I have a Yamasaki Catleap 2B that with the stock cable could only reach about 105Hz, with the Monoprice 24AWG cable I can hit 130Hz. As others have said, quality on the monoprice cables can be hit and miss so you wont always get a better performing cable, or the stock cable may work perfectly well enough as is and you dont need to upgrade at all.


----------



## monkeys

Comes with cable, try that first.Should be perfect.


----------



## OneGun

Ya my monoprice cable is worse then my stock cable..








But I still get 120hz on the stock one.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Thanks.

I'll edit my first post, but I'll ask here too.

Does anyone know if that monitor I listed is one B grade monitors? Seems cheap for a PP version.


----------



## QuantumPion

Hi, new guy here and thought I'd chime in. I just got my X-star matte and love it. I ordered a pixel perfect dvi-only matte x-star dp2710 from bigclothcraft. Ordered sunday and received thursday. The monitor appears to have no dead or stuck pixels. It has some minor backlight bleed at the top, but it's not horrendous and I can live with it. I was able to easily overclock it to 120 hz using the EVGA utility, although I haven't tested it thoroughly yet for image artifacts. My previous monitor was an LG 24" 120 hz monitor and I was able to go back to 60 hz gaming after a day or two of getting used to it. The contrast and colors on this monitor are amazing, I'm glad I went with this one over one of the LG IPS'es.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumPion*
> 
> Hi, new guy here and thought I'd chime in. I just got my X-star matte and love it. I ordered a pixel perfect dvi-only matte x-star dp2710 from bigclothcraft. Ordered sunday and received thursday. The monitor appears to have no dead or stuck pixels. It has some minor backlight bleed at the top, but it's not horrendous and I can live with it. I was able to easily overclock it to 120 hz using the EVGA utility, although I haven't tested it thoroughly yet for image artifacts. My previous monitor was an LG 24" 120 hz monitor and I was able to go back to 60 hz gaming after a day or two of getting used to it. The contrast and colors on this monitor are amazing, I'm glad I went with this one over one of the LG IPS'es.


Welcome to the club bud..


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumPion*
> 
> Hi, new guy here and thought I'd chime in. I just got my X-star matte and love it. I ordered a pixel perfect dvi-only matte x-star dp2710 from bigclothcraft. Ordered sunday and received thursday. The monitor appears to have no dead or stuck pixels. It has some minor backlight bleed at the top, but it's not horrendous and I can live with it. I was able to easily overclock it to 120 hz using the EVGA utility, although I haven't tested it thoroughly yet for image artifacts. My previous monitor was an LG 24" 120 hz monitor and I was able to go back to 60 hz gaming after a day or two of getting used to it. The contrast and colors on this monitor are amazing, I'm glad I went with this one over one of the LG IPS'es.


Honestly the bleed looks pretty bad, but camera lenses can make it look worse than it is.

I would possibly try the 'tape fix' if I were you.


----------



## Xenderwind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theclash150*
> 
> For anyone who bought from green-sum who lives in the US, how long did it take to arrive?


I live on the eastern Virginia and I ordered mine on Monday at around 3 pm est. It got here at around noon on Thursday.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Plan on buying this today or very soon:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11
> 
> Pixel Perfect QNIX QX2710 from Green-Sum.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> Does it come with the right DVI cable? If so, I see people posting Monoprice cables, why? Do they hold more bandwidth and are better for overclocking? Because overclocking is a big reason for me getting this specific model.
> 
> Is Green-Sum's PP policy the "1 center, 5 outter" or is it 100% no defective pixels?
> 
> Does anyone know if that monitor I listed is one B grade monitors? Seems cheap for a PP version.


I don't think you need the pixel perfect to be honest. I paid for a regular at $290 and mine arrived Thursday. I got no dead/stuck pixels and I have very little backlight bleed, I would take a picture but I cant get my room dark enough atm so maybe later tonight. Mine overclocked (with the stock cable) to 96hz easy and I tried 120hz but my computer kept returning it back to 96hz on its own after 30s or so. I haven't tried anything other than that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Honestly the bleed looks pretty bad, but camera lenses can make it look worse than it is.
> 
> I would possibly try the 'tape fix' if I were you.


Yeah I think thats pretty bad as well, but if you're happy with it I guess its okay.


----------



## OneGun

Taking a picture always makes the bleed look a lot worse then it actually is..


----------



## Xenderwind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Taking a picture always makes the bleed look a lot worse then it actually is..


Oh wow I never actually tried before just now. It really does make it look MUCH worse, good call.


----------



## problemgaming

How is the burn-in at 120hz? Been thinking of picking up one, but don't know who is the best ebay seller. Would probably want a matte model with whomever has the best grade panel with little to none BLB and no dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *problemgaming*
> 
> How is the burn-in at 120hz? Been thinking of picking up one, but don't know who is the best ebay seller. Would probably want a matte model with whomever has the best grade panel with little to none BLB and no dead/stuck pixels.


The burn in doesn't happen to everyone, just fyi...it seems random, and I've only heard the complaint from a couple people.


----------



## problemgaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> The burn in doesn't happen to everyone, just fyi...it seems random, and I've only heard the complaint from a couple people.


Are there any downsides to overclocking? Can it damage the monitor at all, such as killing pixels? I tried OCing my samsung monitor which everyone says uses the same panel type, but couldn't get over 85hz. Noticed a dead pixel as well. =/


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *problemgaming*
> 
> Are there any downsides to overclocking? Can it damage the monitor at all, such as killing pixels? I tried OCing my samsung monitor which everyone says uses the same panel type, but couldn't get over 85hz. Noticed a dead pixel as well. =/


Everything I have heard about overclocking monitors says that it does not damage the monitor in any way, nor does it shorten the lifespan.


----------



## problemgaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Everything I have heard about overclocking monitors says that it does not damage the monitor in any way, nor does it shorten the lifespan.


Interesting, thanks for the info. Any recommended ebay sellers with the best panel grade and no dead pixels?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *problemgaming*
> 
> Are there any downsides to overclocking? Can it damage the monitor at all, such as killing pixels? I tried OCing my samsung monitor which everyone says uses the same panel type, but couldn't get over 85hz. Noticed a dead pixel as well. =/


It is not the panel that allows OCing it is the PCB in the monitor..


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *problemgaming*
> 
> Interesting, thanks for the info. Any recommended ebay sellers with the best panel grade and no dead pixels?


I think they are all roughly the same man.

I do wonder how HuluStar's $380 "Pixel Perfect" compares to Green-Sum's $310 "Pixel Perfect"....

I personally went with HuluStar's $317 regular version, because he had a guarantee of 0-2 dead pixels, and I figured you won't notice 2 pixels out of 3.7 million. Mine came with 1 dead pixel in the lower left corner and overclocked without problem to 120Hz.

I actually ended up getting dust or something under my LCD panel somehow when I was opening up the sub-panel/metal framing that encases the LCD screen so I have more "defects" now than what I started with. Silly me, but I'm not too worried about it as this is a secondary monitor for watching TV/movies. After this has happened, I feel like the whole dead pixel thing is not that big of an issue really. They pretty much disappear in your vision unless you are actively seeking them out, and eventually you just end up blocking them out all together. So, I wouldn't worry so much. To me backlight bleed is more annoying, but you can fix that.


----------



## QuantumPion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Honestly the bleed looks pretty bad, but camera lenses can make it look worse than it is.
> 
> I would possibly try the 'tape fix' if I were you.


Yeah it's bad in that one spot. but it's only noticeable on a black background if I look for it. What is the tape fix?


----------



## Xenderwind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumPion*
> 
> Yeah it's bad in that one spot. but it's only noticeable on a black background if I look for it. What is the tape fix?


read the FAQ on the first post....


----------



## b4sh

Just ordered the Qnix Matte going to be my 2nd Korean Monitor. I already own the Achieva


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Halven*
> 
> Im real close to order the QNIX one but before i do i would like to know how the motion blur are on them?
> Atm i have an Eizo Foris FS2333, will i be able to notice any difference in games like BF3 and WoW with the QNIX?
> And since it lacks an OSD menu does that mean that there's no input lag or have i gotten that wrong?
> Also, do you guys think a i5 2500k (4.2ghz), 8gb ram and a windforce GTX670 2GB will be enough to play bf3 and wow at a decent fps with high/medium settings in 1440p?
> And correct me if im wrong but i have read that with a 1440p monitor AA is something you won't need in games at that resolution, how come?
> Thanks!<3


Very blurry compared to real 120Hz

Compared to other IPS? I didn't check, its probably the same.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Very blurry compared to real 120Hz
> 
> Compared to other IPS? I didn't check, its probably the same.


I would not say it is very blurry compared to others. Maybe "very" blurry compared to other 120hz panels WITH lightboost. I have used this side by side with TN 120hz panels and the difference to me is marginal but when lightboost is turned on it does make a big difference. I think everyone needs to expect what they are getting even if they reach 120hz it will only be as good as 120hz and due to the type of panel it may be a slight bit lower quality in terms of motion blur(definitely not a huge difference though). And yes without a scaler you hardly seeing any input lag or ghosting.

EDIT: Also a 670 with 2GB should be plenty to get good framerate with [email protected] with most games


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Very blurry compared to real 120Hz
> 
> Compared to other IPS? I didn't check, its probably the same.


The Qnix's pixel response times are essentially the Same as the 970D's "Normal" setting. I know since I own both. The Qnix/X-Star do not have a 17ms signal delay, it's more like 5-7ms like the other signal input 1440p models PRAD reviewed (HP ZR27440W & Hazro HW27C..the Achieva Shimian is a re-branded Hazro),



vs. Asus VG248QE @60hz Trace Free 60



PRAD only measured the Trace Free 100 setting for some reason @120-144hz even though it is useless on the VG248QE due to extreme overshoot ghosting. The pixel response times @144hz may be 1-2ms faster at maximum vs. the 60hz Trace Free 60.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Qnix's pixel response times are essentially the Same as the 970D's "Normal" setting. I know since I own both. The Qnix/X-Star do not have a 17ms signal delay, it's more like 5-7ms like the other signal input 1440p models PRAD reviewed (HP ZR27440W & Hazro HW27C..the Achieva Shimian is a re-branded Hazro),
> 
> 
> 
> vs. Asus VG248QE @60hz Trace Free 60
> 
> 
> 
> PRAD only measured the Trace Free 100 setting for some reason @120-144hz even though it is useless on the VG248QE due to extreme overshoot ghosting. The pixel response times @144hz may be 1-2ms faster at maximum vs. the 60hz Trace Free 60.


Should the Qnix be a lot faster because of the bypass board? How can it be the same as 970D?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Very blurry compared to real 120Hz
> 
> Compared to other IPS? I didn't check, its probably the same.


It is real 120. Not native, but its not the stuff tvs use to get 120.


----------



## rubixcube101

Hey guys i was going to order one of these in the next few days. Is there a seller that really stands out between bigclothcraft and hulustar? Cheers


----------



## jadenx2

what do you guys think is the life span of the QNIX? or just any of these korean monitors in general?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> what do you guys think is the life span of the QNIX? or just any of these korean monitors in general?


Betting as long as any other monitor aka we'll replace it with something else before it breaks down. [30inch 4k resolution monitors anyone?] Hopefully o/c to 120 too.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Betting as long as any other monitor aka we'll replace it with something else before it breaks down. [30inch 4k resolution monitors anyone?] Hopefully o/c to 120 too.


I would say around 3 years..But like finalheaven said by then we will be playing on 4k monitors at 240hz lol..


----------



## ThinkPositive

Just got some weird behavior with OC on my Qnix qx2710.
Received it yesterday, tested OC 96hz fine, 110hz, fine, 120hz fine but kinda dark, 130hz artifact red line. So saved the 96, 110 and 120hz one and used the 120hz one since.
But after rebooting, my screen was black and blinking. I reinstalled the nvidia driver to remove my settings, restarted my OC today, so here is the thing :
96hz fine
110hz fine
118hz fine
but 119hz, 120hz and 121hz > black screen blinking (on my qnix and also my side non OC monitor)
122hz fine
124hz fine
...

any idea?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThinkPositive*
> 
> Just got some weird behavior with OC on my Qnix qx2710.
> Received it yesterday, tested OC 96hz fine, 110hz, fine, 120hz fine but kinda dark, 130hz artifact red line. So saved the 96, 110 and 120hz one and used the 120hz one since.
> But after rebooting, my screen was black and blinking. I reinstalled the nvidia driver to remove my settings, restarted my OC today, so here is the thing :
> 96hz fine
> 110hz fine
> 118hz fine
> but 119hz, 120hz and 121hz > black screen blinking (on my qnix and also my side non OC monitor)
> 122hz fine
> 124hz fine
> ...
> 
> any idea?


Did you patch your drivers?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Did you patch your drivers?


This.

Did you use the nVidia Pixel Clock Patcher? Find it here - http://www.monitortests.com/


----------



## ThinkPositive

uh nop.
Wait, so, how am I able to do 122hz all fine (kinda dark tho) and 130hz but with artifact?

I don't get it

So let's do it from scratch
I'm on gtx titan, and driver 320.18, evga precision X 4.1 installed also.

1-So, do I need this ?

2-As I'm on qnix, and gtx titan (600/700 serie) without sli, I'm not sure if I should use the normal patcher or the full patcher?

3-what will it change regarding my situation right now?


----------



## Remmib

^I'm too tired man to give a long winded explanation...need to go to sleep.

Follow this overclocking guide here - 



 (don't worry that it's for a diff monitor, all the instructions/patchers are the same).

Run this nvlddmkm-patcher.exe...if it doesn't work, redo everything and use this instead nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe

1. run the pixel clock patcher (nvlddmkm-patcher.exe)
2. reboot
3. enable testmode
4. reboot
5. create the new resolutions in CRU (instructions are in the video)
6. reboot
7. everything should work now
8. if it doesn't - run the pixel clock patcher and click 'revert'...try again with nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe


----------



## ThinkPositive

thx.
Well, after patching, rebooting, enabling test mode, rebooting, adding resolution via CRU, rebooting... it didn't made a difference
I'm still all fine to 118hz included
black screen from 119hz to 121hz
then fine again from 122hz to 130hz (with artifact over 124hz)

well, nvm I'll just use 122hz instead of 120hz ^^


----------



## self_slaughter

Might have to pull mine apart soon an fix the backlight bleeding. Been meaning to for the last month or so but just haven't had the time to bother.

Anyone know how to fix dark spots in the monitor?
It's almost like theres two great big thumb smudge marks on the inside of the screen... annoying as crap depending on the background colour.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> Might have to pull mine apart soon an fix the backlight bleeding. Been meaning to for the last month or so but just haven't had the time to bother.
> 
> Anyone know how to fix dark spots in the monitor?
> It's almost like theres two great big thumb smudge marks on the inside of the screen... annoying as crap depending on the background colour.


Uh this is a "new one" afaik. So not sure, sorry...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> Might have to pull mine apart soon an fix the backlight bleeding. Been meaning to for the last month or so but just haven't had the time to bother.
> 
> Anyone know how to fix dark spots in the monitor?
> It's almost like theres two great big thumb smudge marks on the inside of the screen... annoying as crap depending on the background colour.


That's prolly dust or finger prints under the anti glare coating.. So I don't think it can be fixed..


----------



## jadenx2

is the 3-year SquareTrade warranty worth getting? also, there are extra charges for customs is that right?


----------



## Quiksmage

I didn't see it until now, but it appears my green-sum *Pixel Perfect* QNIX is not so pixel perfect.

There's a pretty large cluster of dead pixels at the bottom left that my toolbar was covering im guessing. Surrounded by these dead pixels is around 15 stuck teal pixels. I couldn't get the stuck pixels to show up, but here's a video of the dead cluster. I contacted the seller about this now and I'll update on his response.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> is the 3-year SquareTrade warranty worth getting? also, there are extra charges for customs is that right?


Some people have said it's a no-brainer and ST are really good - but I think you may invalidate any warranty if you do any BLB/panel play fix so I'm not sure.

My panel is too low in the bezel so after I ask ST and green-sum whether it'd affect a warranty I'll probably be opening up and fixing it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Removing the middle screws also fixed such for me. It appeared my screen was lower in the middle but in fact the bezel was just 'too tight' against the panel there.


----------



## Sedako

I just bit the bullet on a Qnix + 7970. I'm pretty excited, but I do have a question that I can't seem to find a clear answer for. The monitor I plan on dualing with the Qnix runs at 60hz. Is it possible to have both monitors running at different clocks on the same video card, or would they be limited to 60hz?


----------



## jerrolds

Pretty sure Eyefinity wont work with mixed resolutions since it treats both monitors as one. But if you want to have 1 at 120hz and another at 60hz for desktop use (or even mirroring) then yes its possible.


----------



## Sedako

I wont be using eyefinity, just as separate monitors.


----------



## jadenx2

do customs/VAT fees apply to US? or just other countries?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> do customs/VAT fees apply to US? or just other countries?


Just other countries.. The price you paid on ebay is all you will pay..


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Some people have said it's a no-brainer and ST are really good - but I think you may invalidate any warranty if you do any BLB/panel play fix so I'm not sure.
> 
> My panel is too low in the bezel so after I ask ST and green-sum whether it'd affect a warranty I'll probably be opening up and fixing it.


Please let us know what ST says about opening up the monitors whether it be for tape mod or to put in a new stand.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> Might have to pull mine apart soon an fix the backlight bleeding. Been meaning to for the last month or so but just haven't had the time to bother.
> 
> Anyone know how to fix dark spots in the monitor?
> It's almost like theres two great big thumb smudge marks on the inside of the screen... annoying as crap depending on the background colour.


I have two spots like that as well.

I only notice it at nighttime when on a completely black background and I actively search for them.

I can't be bothered to worry about it...it's probably not fixable.


----------



## jadenx2

is buying the 'Perfect Pixel' worth it? what's the difference?


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedako*
> 
> I wont be using eyefinity, just as separate monitors.


Then you are good to go as I have a 60hz 1080p ASUS right next to my 96hz X-Star and both are on the same video card.


----------



## Sedako

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> Then you are good to go as I have a 60hz 1080p ASUS right next to my 96hz X-Star and both are on the same video card.


Awesome, thank you!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> is buying the 'Perfect Pixel' worth it? what's the difference?


Short answer: no.
Long answer: search this tread for that question, it has been asked many times. Also, look in the op under FAQ


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quiksmage*
> 
> I didn't see it until now, but it appears my green-sum *Pixel Perfect* QNIX is not so pixel perfect.
> 
> There's a pretty large cluster of dead pixels at the bottom left that my toolbar was covering im guessing. Surrounded by these dead pixels is around 15 stuck teal pixels. I couldn't get the stuck pixels to show up, but here's a video of the dead cluster. I contacted the seller about this now and I'll update on his response.


Well that meany dead pixels is clearly more than the maximum of 5 that are allowed even on the non-pixel perfect versions. So hopefully it is a short enough time that you have received the monitor that you can just get a free warranty replacement


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> is buying the 'Perfect Pixel' worth it? what's the difference?


I bought my CrossOver 27Q LED pixel perfect.

Some people say it's not worth it.


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> is buying the 'Perfect Pixel' worth it? what's the difference?


its really up to you if your willing to risk it.

my 2 monitors before had dead pixels and i HATED them.

the price of a regular wasnt much different then a perfect pixel so w/e right?

you can get one for 308 shipped to the US right now i think.

also since they are having this zero dead pixel service i cant help but think that the ones that have dead pixels they would sell as regulars...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolwaters*
> 
> its really up to you if your willing to risk it.
> 
> my 2 monitors before had dead pixels and i HATED them.
> 
> the price of a regular wasnt much different then a perfect pixel so w/e right?
> 
> you can get one for 308 shipped to the US right now i think.
> 
> also since they are having this zero dead pixel service i cant help but think that the ones that have dead pixels they would sell as regulars...


Perfect pixel is a blunt statement that when you receive your monitor there will be no dead pixels. This is a complete load of nonesense as mainstream monitors cannot even guarantee no dead pixels. There has been plenty of times that my company will order dozens of monitors and a small portion of them will have dead pixels and will have to be sent in for a RMA. This demonstrates that a "guarantee" of no dead pixels is nonesense. Not to mention is says "dead" pixels which is too vague to count "stuck" pixels or "bright" pixels.

The only way this is valid in any way is IF with the particular seller you are going to states that their "perfect pixel" class warrants that if there is ANY dead/stuck/bright pixels they will RMA the monitor for free(meaning paid shipping back). This is certainly not the case as we have heard many people in the Qnix club have bad experiences with the perfect pixel term(scam). I would confirm this with the seller before even ordering.

Most of the time what i have seen is even with a perfect pixel term used if there is an actual dead pixel(a lot of the time they are stuck) the seller will try and give you a partial refund(which is a great conversation).

All in all this has been repeatedly confirmed to be a marketing term(scam). I would look more into what the sellers warranty period is and what the acceptable level of dead/stuck/bright pixels is which does apply even with perfect pixels. You want piece of mind buy an actual warranty (squaretrade) otherwise unless you contact the seller and specifically find out what perfect pixel entails or you are just tossing money into the fire.


----------



## Moragg

SpartanF8 - good idea, copy+paste the answer for this question. Or point them to the FAQ - people need to learn to read 1st posts.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> SpartanF8 - good idea, copy+paste the answer for this question. Or point them to the FAQ - people need to learn to read 1st posts.


That is what i was kinda thinking but i didn't want to come off as a jerk.


----------



## Sumner Rol

Didn't pay for pixel perfect but I got lucky with no dead pixels


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brightbus*
> 
> It is real 120. Not native, but its not the stuff tvs use to get 120.


I meant it isn't the same as 120Hz on the TN's I've tried. For me, that cast some doubt as to whether it was real 120Hz or not (a member from another forum frequently explains how pixels using IPS technology can't physically switch fast enough to support 120Hz, now that I've tried an OC 120Hz Korean, I'm actually inclined to agree with him - could be wrong though)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I would not say it is very blurry compared to others. Maybe "very" blurry compared to other 120hz panels WITH lightboost. I have used this side by side with TN 120hz panels and the difference to me is marginal but when lightboost is turned on it does make a big difference. I think everyone needs to expect what they are getting even if they reach 120hz it will only be as good as 120hz and due to the type of panel it may be a slight bit lower quality in terms of motion blur(definitely not a huge difference though). And yes without a scaler you hardly seeing any input lag or ghosting.
> 
> EDIT: Also a 670 with 2GB should be plenty to get good framerate with [email protected] with most games


The difference without lightboost is indeed not as significant as when using lightboost (like with both the QNIX and a non-lb TN, you can't focus on moving objects very well - whereas with lb you obviously can); but still I personally can see the difference in terms of how fast you can move before you see blur. Also the blur on the QNIX is quite unique (see below). I tested this mainly on the mouse cursor, moving it about and seeing how it blurred depending on the speed of motion, because the cursor stands out massively and is easy to focus on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Qnix's pixel response times are essentially the Same as the 970D's "Normal" setting. I know since I own both. The Qnix/X-Star do not have a 17ms signal delay, it's more like 5-7ms like the other signal input 1440p models PRAD reviewed (HP ZR27440W & Hazro HW27C..the Achieva Shimian is a re-branded Hazro),
> 
> 
> 
> vs. Asus VG248QE @60hz Trace Free 60
> 
> 
> 
> PRAD only measured the Trace Free 100 setting for some reason @120-144hz even though it is useless on the VG248QE due to extreme overshoot ghosting. The pixel response times @144hz may be 1-2ms faster at maximum vs. the 60hz Trace Free 60.


Has anyone tested the pixel response of the QNIX overclocked at 120Hz?

Anyway, what I know for certain is that at 120Hz when comparing the BenQ XL2411T (aka akin to a VG248QE) to the QNIX directly, there are some interesting effects: when moving the cursor around on the QNIX, above a certain speed (that is actually not very fast) the cursor pixels blended into each other in a very particular example of blur - not just standard motion blur like you would get on the XL2411T when moving really fast, but nearby pixels actually fused and streaked colours. This happened even at a pretty low motion speed on the QNIX. With the TN's, the motion blur only occurs at speeds a step higher, and as far as I can see you definitely don't get such strange streaking - it's more "normal" uniform blur which manifests as fuzzy edges.

This led me to conclude that 120Hz on the QNIX is far from the same smoothness as on TN panels. The effect is harder to realise in full screen games and such because you are looking at the scene as a whole. When concentrating on a mouse cursor on a uniform background however, the contrast is pretty clear-cut and I could easily see the horrible streaking blur.

Is there a difference between the blur of TN's and the blur on the QNIX? I am certain there is. Does this make a difference in use? Well I think so. Didn't do extensive testing in games though, fired up a shooter and played for a while, confirmed that I couldn't focus on anything when panning the camera, and that was basically it.


----------



## Moragg

Easy solution - try pixperan on both monitors, there is a tool that has squares moving on a background and it has a tool which allows you to "measure" the length of the streaks by eye. Make the settings equal then compare the lengths of the streaks and you have your answer.


----------



## jadenx2

alright well i pulled the trigger on a Qnix from green-sum... let's see how it goes


----------



## Sumner Rol

I ordered this stand for mine since the stock base is pretty cheap and doesn't allow for any adjustments.

Single LCD Monitor VESA Desk Stand - Height Adjustable


----------



## majnu

Overclockers UK have banned people discussing these monitors. What idiots! I guess it's affecting their DGM/Dell/Hazro sales. The QNIX thread has vanished which intrigued many people.


----------



## ucantescape1992

Just got mine from green-sum today. Ordered the standard, not the pixel perfect. No BLB, two dead pixels that I've found so far. Overclocked straight to 120hz, stable so far. Overall I'm amazed with this monitor.

Does anyone know how to get rid of the "test mode" permanent watermark after patching the drivers?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Just got mine from green-sum today. Ordered the standard, not the pixel perfect. No BLB, two dead pixels that I've found so far. Overclocked straight to 120hz, stable so far. Overall I'm amazed with this monitor.
> 
> Does anyone know how to get rid of the "test mode" permanent watermark after patching the drivers?


http://www.pcworld.com/article/204735/Remove_the_Test_Mode_Watermark_from_Windows_7.html

There is also a little app someone made posted on the catleap forum i believe.


----------



## zetachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Yes they can be mounted with a 100 by 100 vesa mount..


I just swapped out my 25inch Asus with mine. Only issue is it seems that the screws that came with the mount are two long. Anyone else have that issue? Btw so far with minimal examination I have no dead pixels or bleed.


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Overclockers UK have banned people discussing these monitors. What idiots! I guess it's affecting their DGM/Dell/Hazro sales. The QNIX thread has vanished which intrigued many people.


Yeah it's bloody pathetic...









Why don't they look into sourcing some of these monitors instead, there's obviously a demand for them...

BTW I got banned from Overclock3D.net forums too (after trying to correct people's mis-information about Yamasakis)... no-one is telling people they *have* to purchase these Korean imports but surely they're interesting enough to talk about...? So much for freedom of speech...


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Just got mine from green-sum today. Ordered the standard, not the pixel perfect. No BLB, two dead pixels that I've found so far. Overclocked straight to 120hz, stable so far. Overall I'm amazed with this monitor.
> 
> Does anyone know how to get rid of the "test mode" permanent watermark after patching the drivers?


Think this is the relevant tool: http://deepxw.blogspot.com/2008/12/remove-watermark-v03-build-20081210.html


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TesseractOrion*
> 
> Yeah it's bloody pathetic...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why don't they look into sourcing some of these monitors instead, there's obviously a demand for them...
> 
> BTW I got banned from Overclock3D.net forums too (after trying to correct people's mis-information about Yamasakis)... no-one is telling people they *have* to purchase these Korean imports but surely they're interesting enough to talk about...? So much for freedom of speech...


I don't understand. What do these forums gain from banning people and topics about the qnix? Do these forums make money from people buying the other monitors?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Think this is the relevant tool: http://deepxw.blogspot.com/2008/12/remove-watermark-v03-build-20081210.html


This is not the one i used but i justed tested the one you found and it works just fine cheers


----------



## OneGun

I go to neither one of the forums mentioned and now I never will.. Plus the overclock3d guys YouTube videos take 2hrs to review braided cables lol..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I don't understand. What do these forums gain from banning people and topics about the qnix? Do these forums make money from people buying the other monitors?


I am not going to do this but, If there is a good sample size of people who want the discussion to be allowed start a petition to get it re-opened. Question the forum moderators on why it was banned in the first place. This would take a good deal of people to accomplish as one member or even a dozen are easy to ignore.

I would also not like to speculate on why they did block it. Best thing to ask and find out rather than guess as there could be a legitimate reason(i can't think of one but who knows)


----------



## ucantescape1992

Can anyone confirm that the tool posted is compatible with windows 8 64bit


----------



## ucantescape1992

Can anyone confirm that the tool posted is compatible with windows 8 64bit


----------



## ucantescape1992

Can anyone confirm that the tool posted is compatible with windows 8 64bit


----------



## ucantescape1992

Can anyone confirm that the tool posted is compatible with windows 8 64bit


----------



## ucantescape1992

21st birthday.....too many beers.....sorry for the quad post my phone wasn't rresponding


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> 21st birthday.....too many beers.....sorry for the quad post my phone wasn't rresponding


If you can still spell on your 21st birthday then you need more beers..Happy Bday..And welcome..


----------



## nicedart

Just ordered my Qnix glossy from dream-seller today!

I am in the middle of a Haswell build and I was waiting for the new Asus Formula to come out. I've had the i7 4770k, Samsung 840pro, and couple sticks of some g-skill 2400 ram staring at me every time I sat down for almost 3 weeks now.

Got impatient and just bought the Asus Hero. So since I saved some money on the board why not drop that plus some in a new screen! The motherboard, screen and some miscellaneous water parts are on the way. Hope all goes good. crossing my fingers for a good panel and a better i7


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> Just ordered my Qnix glossy from dream-seller today!
> 
> I am in the middle of a Haswell build and I was waiting for the new Asus Formula to come out. I've had the i7 4770k, Samsung 840pro, and couple sticks of some g-skill 2400 ram staring at me every time I sat down for almost 3 weeks now.
> 
> Got impatient and just bought the Asus Hero. So since I saved some money on the board why not drop that plus some in a new screen! The motherboard, screen and some miscellaneous water parts are on the way. Hope all goes good. crossing my fingers for a good panel and a better i7


Keep us updated bud..


----------



## fake13371

Anyone has the link to the "idle" screensaver that was made so that 500 series cards could properly go into power save mode when idling? Can't find it anywhere.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fake13371*
> 
> Anyone has the link to the "idle" screensaver that was made so that 500 series cards could properly go into power save mode when idling? Can't find it anywhere.


This it?

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Idle-Screen-Saver


----------



## Azgalor

Thinking of pulling the trigger on one of these monitors, except I need some clarification on compatibility.

All the Ebay sellers state that these monitors do not work on laptops or Macs. However, I do have a MacBook Pro Late 2011 with a HD6770M (which is a compatible card), so I was planning on using a Mini DisplayPort to Dual DVI adapter for this monitor. But I noticed that they have a disclaimer saying it does not work with converters as well.

Does anyone have a similar setup or can confirm if it will work or not?

Thanks!


----------



## ucantescape1992

I've tried about every method of removing the test mode watermark, none have worked.

Has anyone removed the watermark on Windows 8 64bit build 9200? How did you do it?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> SpartanF8 - good idea, copy+paste the answer for this question. Or point them to the FAQ - people need to learn to read 1st posts.


Haha yeah. Hidden in plain view! Its all good though


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> 21st birthday.....too many beers.....sorry for the quad post my phone wasn't rresponding
> 
> 
> 
> If you can still spell on your 21st birthday then you need more beers..Happy Bday..And welcome..
Click to expand...

quad post! That's a record haha. Happy 21st dude


----------



## fake13371

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> This it?
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Idle-Screen-Saver


Yeah, that's the one. Thanks mate!


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sumner Rol*
> 
> I ordered this stand for mine since the stock base is pretty cheap and doesn't allow for any adjustments.
> 
> Single LCD Monitor VESA Desk Stand - Height Adjustable


Thanks for the link I've been looking for something like this, was considering one on newegg that was $100!!


----------



## doco

welp bought QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2 for $309.36 from hulustar. hoping i dont get problems with the monitor!


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Thanks for the link I've been looking for something like this, was considering one on newegg that was $100!!


Also check Monoprice.com for some high, tilt, and swivel adjustable mounts.


----------



## Turok

Still @ the office..will update the thread with new pictures upon my return home...


----------



## asuka10456

I got a Matte X-Star about 3 weeks ago after reading this thread. It was stable at 120hz with the original cable but had random lines when I went higher. I picked up a better quality cable from a buddy today. Now its stable at 130hz, any higher I get the lines again. Will there be any damage to the monitor if kept at 130hz 24/7?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> I got a Matte X-Star about 3 weeks ago after reading this thread. It was stable at 120hz with the original cable but had random lines when I went higher. I picked up a better quality cable from a buddy today. Now its stable at 130hz, any higher I get the lines again. Will there be any damage to the monitor if kept at 130hz 24/7?


The only known issue is frame retention if you leave a static screen up to long..But it goes away and a lil bit..I just keep mine at 60 until i game..That way i get none of the burn in issues..

Hey its your first post..Welcome bud..Post a picture of your monitor and join the club..


----------



## dzap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am not going to do this but, If there is a good sample size of people who want the discussion to be allowed start a petition to get it re-opened. Question the forum moderators on why it was banned in the first place. This would take a good deal of people to accomplish as one member or even a dozen are easy to ignore.
> 
> I would also not like to speculate on why they did block it. Best thing to ask and find out rather than guess as there could be a legitimate reason(i can't think of one but who knows)


Well, a year ago the same happened here, the threads about Yamakasi monitors were locked, the freedom of speech was horribly shutdown. Was good reason not to look up OC.net for a year until this QNIX/Xstar thing happened.


----------



## oneilljstn

I just got mine, 1 dead pixel on the extreme left side of the screen, dont even notice it unless i search for it.
It easily overclocked to 120hz with the stock cable, I probably could have gone further but didnt feel the need.
The monitor looks fantastic, I cant believe i have been missing out on such clarity for so long. My only concern is my screen darkens whenever i pump up the refresh rate. From what ive read that happens to everyone? Is there a fix for it? because it pretty much makes playing games impossible when half the time you cant see the enemy.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oneilljstn*
> 
> I just got mine, 1 dead pixel on the extreme left side of the screen, dont even notice it unless i search for it.
> It easily overclocked to 120hz with the stock cable, I probably could have gone further but didnt feel the need.
> The monitor looks fantastic, I cant believe i have been missing out on such clarity for so long. My only concern is my screen darkens whenever i pump up the refresh rate. From what ive read that happens to everyone? Is there a fix for it? because it pretty much makes playing games impossible when half the time you cant see the enemy.


Go to the settings and ICC profile part here and download and install the 120hz profile..Then go to color management in control panel and add profile..Find the 120hz one and set as default..But only use it when at 120hz or it kinda makes screen looked washed out..

Here is link..

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117


----------



## asuka10456

No dead pixels, fixed brightness through windows. Looks good



Is there anyway to fix this backlight bleeding?


----------



## eliongater

What's the story with these monitors under $300? Are they b panels rather than a-? It was mentioned in another thread on here


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> 
> 
> No dead pixels, fixed brightness through windows. Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> Is there anyway to fix this backlight bleeding?


Congrats, loosening the screws from the behind to release the front frame bezel might help (as it might be pushing hard on the panel).


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No do not remove the 60Hz one or you are hosed when you try to update your driver and it cant switch back to 60 to do so. This problem most likely caused by the 100Hz one not being on top in CRU (assuming that's what you are using). If neither of those things are it then just keep troubleshooting/messing with it.


Sorry for the late reply back, but I had to fix stuff from the wife in our house. We ordered a new complete couch (don't know the exact word for it in English) which will be delivered this Friday, however I still had to prepare our wall and corner for LED lightning. Anyways, won't bore your with the boring stuff though. That's the reason for the late reply.

Anyways, back on-topic; So if I understood you correctly in CRU, you have to put the resolution you want in the top of that list?
So instead of having:
Quote:


> 2560x1440 @ 60.000 Hz
> 2560x1440 @ 100.000 Hz


(when you add a new resolution)

You should have it like this:
Quote:


> 2560x1440 @ 100.000 Hz
> 2560x1440 @ 60.000 Hz


Right...?
I didn't know the order was important. Maybe I missed that part. My bad...


----------



## theclash150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> 
> 
> No dead pixels, fixed brightness through windows. Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> Is there anyway to fix this backlight bleeding?


Your background appears to be a bear shooting lasers out of its eyes. That is freaking AWESOME. Can we get a link, por favor?


----------



## Turok




----------



## Turok

What is the use of the button next to the blue LED? It doesn't even click!


----------



## foxino

I just got my qnix... but my cards are on the way.. must wait Thursday..... so for test it i have 2 old card.. gtx 9600 and an ati 5870.. can i use one of them for test it?? i m so curious to see if it works.. thank you guys


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> You should have it like this:
> Right...?
> I didn't know the order was important. Maybe I missed that part. My bad...


Correct. Yes the top one is used as default.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turok*
> 
> What is the use of the button next to the blue LED? It doesn't even click!


That would be the OSD button if these units had such. Other models use this same bezel too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> I just got my qnix... but my cards are on the way.. must wait Thursday..... so for test it i have 2 old card.. gtx 9600 and an ati 5870.. can i use one of them for test it?? i m so curious to see if it works.. thank you guys


I think the 5870 has at least one dual link.


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Correct. Yes the top one is used as default.
> That would be the OSD button if these units had such. Other models use this same bezel too.
> I think the 5870 has at least one dual link.


Thank you, Got my Qnix QX2710 from ExcellentCastle (after lengthy emails and asking him to confirm by email what is "Perfect pixel", and he/she did reply and confirm that if there is more than one dead=black pixel, they will take it back).

Excellent condition, no bleed & no dead/hot pixels.

I am coming from NEC 2690WUXI2, so this monitor had to be something to impress me, and it did, tested 96HZ without the patch/SLI and it worked with no light or any problem, but I kept it on 60HZ, until later time .Got to get used to the small text (coming from 1920x1200)

Thank you to everyone in this thread who contributed and answered my and other's questions.

I am impressed...to an extant that I am really thinking not to get the LG27EA83!
edit :
I have noticed that when I use 96HZ the windows (using WindoFX) wobble strangely, not natural or smooth as with 60HZ!....wonder what does this mean?


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turok*
> 
> ...so this monitor had to be something to impress me, and it did, tested 965HZ without the patch/SLI and it worked with no light or any problem...


Wow 965 Hz!!
...must be a record.


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Correct. Yes the top one is used as default.


Thanks! Must have missed that one.


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Wow 965 Hz!!
> ...must be a record.










......







..96HZ


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Thanks! Must have missed that one.


Yeah not particularly intuitive but makes sense once you know that; needs _some_ way to know what to use by defualt. I think I read it in the "guide".


----------



## foxino

r u sure? this tab say no :


----------



## wrigleyvillain

My bad I coulda sworn some dude with a 5850 was using one. Maybe that was a "pre-sales" question I am thinking of. And I thought some Macs worked too. Guess not...


----------



## foxino

i just need to see if there r any dead pixel or BB.. for play or more i can wait this week end^^


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turok*
> 
> Got to get used to the small text (coming from 1920x1200)


Increasing DPI in Windows to 125% works great for text readability without impacting very many things in a negative way, just the odd app or game here or there that doesnt scale well and even then is only a very minor nuisance.


----------



## cor35vet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> r u sure? this tab say no :


I use mine with a Sapphire HD5870 and it has 2 Dual Link DVI ports.


----------



## zetachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Increasing DPI in Windows to 125% works great for text readability without impacting very many things in a negative way, just the odd app or game here or there that doesnt scale well and even then is only a very minor nuisance.


This should come in handy. Wife was already complaining about the small txt in emai.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah finally playing through Metro 2033 (recently got for free; glad I ended up waiting too for my present system) and there are some really bright fullscreen white cut shots that last many seconds that made me really glad I have no pixel issues. Really woulda stuck out there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zetachi*
> 
> This should come in handy. Wife was already complaining about the small txt in emai.


Control + mouse wheel should also make it bigger/smaller in browser(s). I have my cat to thank for helping me discover that recently lol.

And just show her how she can fit like 3 windows side by side now and she will love it! Pinterist, email and Facebook all at once!


----------



## foxino

i have sapphire too.. so work^^ good so i can see^^ very very thx^^ mate


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hell you always coulda just tried it. If it doesn't get a good video signal but the display is working fine it should flash red then green when first powered.


----------



## jitaroo

Just recieved my X-Star today from dream-seller for $310 here in Kuwait. So far I don't see any dead pixels or bleeding anywhere but I got the pixel perfect version. Got up to 120hz in windows but while I was playing Bioshock I'd notice a red horizontal line for a second then it went, as well as a white line at another time. We'll see if it's stable or not. I also couldn't figure out how to overclock in Mac OS so if anyone knows how to do that I'd appreciate any hints. I paid 7.250KD ($25) for customs in case anyone else in Kuwait orders it.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jitaroo*
> 
> Just recieved my X-Star today from dream-seller for $310 here in Kuwait. So far I don't see any dead pixels or bleeding anywhere but I got the pixel perfect version. Got up to 120hz in windows but while I was playing Bioshock I'd notice a red horizontal line for a second then it went, as well as a white line at another time. We'll see if it's stable or not. I also couldn't figure out how to overclock in Mac OS so if anyone knows how to do that I'd appreciate any hints. I paid 7.250KD ($25) for customs in case anyone else in Kuwait orders it.


How are you connected to the mac? Are you using a mini-display port to dvi adapter and it works?


----------



## jitaroo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> How are you connected to the mac? Are you using a mini-display port to dvi adapter and it works?


It's actually a hackintosh plugged into my GTX580


----------



## Difunto

I just got mine in today! pixel perfect Glossy X-Star DP2710 and am at 120hz out of the box using EVGA PIXEL CLOCK didnt had to use CRU or anything


----------



## Turok

Is there a way to stop the blue led from blinking when the PC is off? (other then turning the monitor off....







)


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turok*
> 
> Is there a way to stop the blue led from blinking when the PC is off? (other then turning the monitor off....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


A small round piece of electrical tape..


----------



## foxino

guys the monitor is 240v. right? no need adapter for EU? (italy)


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> A small round piece of electrical tape..


You are right....







...Silly me, thanks.

Do you think I will get used to the new resolution? my eyes are a bit sore!


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> guys the monitor is 240v. right? no need adapter for EU? (italy)


Yep...working perfect here, I still can't believe we can get such screens for this price...I am itching to a get a second.


----------



## Turok

I will steal my GF's Vesa 3M stand later....I think it will work.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turok*
> 
> You are right....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...Silly me, thanks.
> 
> Do you think I will get used to the new resolution? my eyes are a bit sore!


Turn the brightness down..And i have a desk light right behind my monitor so the screen is not the only light i look at..But my eyes still get a lil burny also after long hours of looking at amazing resolution..But to me its worth it..


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turok*
> 
> You are right....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...Silly me, thanks.
> 
> Do you think I will get used to the new resolution? my eyes are a bit sore!


My eyes were sore as well when I first used the monitor but now the eye strain is completely gone and I can stare at the screen for very long periods of time with no issues.


----------



## asuka10456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turok*
> 
> Congrats, loosening the screws from the behind to release the front frame bezel might help (as it might be pushing hard on the panel).


Thanks, it did help quite a bit. Its not very visible anymore on dark backgrounds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theclash150*
> 
> Your background appears to be a bear shooting lasers out of its eyes. That is freaking AWESOME. Can we get a link, por favor?


Couldn't find where I got it from but I uploaded it for you guys.

http://i4.minus.com/iblXMf5IoMhZaQ.jpg


----------



## Xenderwind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> Thanks, it did help quite a bit. Its not very visible anymore on dark backgrounds.
> Couldn't find where I got it from but I uploaded it for you guys.
> 
> http://i4.minus.com/iblXMf5IoMhZaQ.jpg


I'm going to assume its from the website at the bottom right of the image


----------



## asuka10456

Yeah, just noticed that. I couldn't see the website when its on my desktop. Its blocked by the taskbar!


----------



## Screams

Mine finally arrived (glossy pixel perfect Qnix), no dead pixels, minimum backlight bleed that i can probably fix with tape method. Overclocked to 120hz straight away but getting the odd red or blue line(s). Need to grab me a 28AWG dual link dvi cable in order to (hopefully) rid myself of that issue.

Ordered from Dream Seller, arrived 6days (dispatched on Thursday and stuck @ customs on sat & sunday) no vat/duty invoice yet (FedEx was courier) but will probably get one soon.

All in all great purchase. Just need to make my corian desk so i can finally mount this and my shimian.

Korean monitors are awesome.


----------



## EniGma1987

My monitor just arrived a day early. I just bought a regular matte model from green-sum. No bad pixels at all and very minimal backlight bleed. Pictures to follow tomorrow once I get it all set up with the mount I bought


----------



## General121

Not sure why all of you guys are so stuck on exactly getting 120hz haha. I mean, if you can get 110hz or 100hz, id think thats close enough to count. Besides, im sure not all of you have the full GPU power to take on that full 120hz power.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screams*
> 
> Mine finally arrived (glossy pixel perfect Qnix), no dead pixels, minimum backlight bleed that i can probably fix with tape method. Overclocked to 120hz straight away but getting the odd red or blue line(s). Need to grab me a 28AWG dual link dvi cable in order to (hopefully) rid myself of that issue.
> 
> Ordered from Dream Seller, arrived 6days (dispatched on Thursday and stuck @ customs on sat & sunday) no vat/duty invoice yet (FedEx was courier) but will probably get one soon.
> 
> All in all great purchase. Just need to make my corian desk so i can finally mount this and my shimian.
> 
> Korean monitors are awesome.


you want the 24AWG cable like this one..

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


----------



## foxino

Turn on my qnix 1 min ago... i bought perfect pixel.. and no1 dead stuck pixel.. love it.. bought from green sum.. awesone


----------



## AntiStupid

Just checked my tracking number and it says out for delivery







it said estimated delivery would be Wednesday! Bought from Dream-seller


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AntiStupid*
> 
> Just checked my tracking number and it says out for delivery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it said estimated delivery would be Wednesday! Bought from Dream-seller


Let us know how it goes sir..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> Turn on my qnix 1 min ago... i bought perfect pixel.. and no1 dead stuck pixel.. love it.. bought from green sum.. awesome


That's the best feeling with gambles like these


----------



## foxino

the foto aren t very good but the monitor yes^^ ty for help me to choice this one^^

just a simple question.. if i oc it to 120hz can i use NVision for 3d??
thank you


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> 
> the foto aren t very good but the monitor yes^^ ty for help me to choice this one^^
> 
> just a simple question.. if i oc it to 120hz can i use NVision for 3d??
> thank you


No you can't do 3d on these..


----------



## foxino

ok^^ ty


----------



## bigmarcel

Have you guys made an offer to dream-seller? I made him $200 for glossy qnix - what is the lowest you guys have purchased a monitor for?


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmarcel*
> 
> Have you guys made an offer to dream-seller? I made him $200 for glossy qnix - what is the lowest you guys have purchased a monitor for?


lmao


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well...no point to the 'offer game' if you are going to start high but that might be a bit too low, yo.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmarcel*
> 
> Have you guys made an offer to dream-seller? I made him $200 for glossy qnix - what is the lowest you guys have purchased a monitor for?


It cost half that just to ship it.. Lol


----------



## Screams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmarcel*
> 
> Have you guys made an offer to dream-seller? I made him $200 for glossy qnix - what is the lowest you guys have purchased a monitor for?


I bought from Dream-Seller a Pixel Perfect Glossy Qnix for £200/$310 (instead of £220 or something) so aim around that area


----------



## Screams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Screams*
> 
> Mine finally arrived (glossy pixel perfect Qnix), no dead pixels, minimum backlight bleed that i can probably fix with tape method. Overclocked to 120hz straight away but getting the odd red or blue line(s). Need to grab me a 28AWG dual link dvi cable in order to (hopefully) rid myself of that issue.
> 
> Ordered from Dream Seller, arrived 6days (dispatched on Thursday and stuck @ customs on sat & sunday) no vat/duty invoice yet (FedEx was courier) but will probably get one soon.
> 
> All in all great purchase. Just need to make my corian desk so i can finally mount this and my shimian.
> 
> Korean monitors are awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> you want the 24AWG cable like this one..
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2
Click to expand...

Cheap price but im from UK (shipping is outragoeus for 1 cable) any Uk alternatives to not break the bank (even though monitor already accomplished that lol)


----------



## Croshnar

Got my Evo II today! From what I can see, I have 0 dead Pixels and very minimal blb. I'm so excited and can't wait to game on this beast. It's still at 60Hz, but I plan on overclocking it to 95-120. Thanks for all the help guys!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screams*
> 
> Cheap price but im from UK (shipping is outragoeus for 1 cable) any Uk alternatives to not break the bank (even though monitor already accomplished that lol)


I don't know your stores out there bud.. Just try and find a 24AWG cable if you can..


----------



## foxino

242 euro.. and 59 for taxes.... very cheap


----------



## hgelpke

On the Qnix, how difficult/dangerous is opening the monitor and doing the tape mod? It was a little hard to tell how much needs to be done just to get to the panel based on the complete disassembly videos on youtube.


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screams*
> 
> Cheap price but im from UK (shipping is outragoeus for 1 cable) any Uk alternatives to not break the bank (even though monitor already accomplished that lol)


This is the one I ordered: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Monoprice-3ft-24AWG-CL2-Dual-Link-DVI-D-Cable-Black-/400480182265?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item5d3e7a9ff9 Was the cheapest I could find.

However: I urge you to use a much longer (6ft at least) cable - remember these are incredibly inflexible, you really want a straight line from port to port, they hardly bend at all (plus they have a big 'nodule' near the ends which makes it hard to screw them in).

I had to put my Full Tower case on some books and the monitor balanced precariously on the edge of the desk in order for it to reach! And the upshot was, no increase in hz (at least on the Catleap I tried - I didn't bother with my Qnix as that does 120hz on the stock cable as it is)...

6ft Monoprice are about £25 from eBay.co.uk (free shipping from Germany included).

Whether it's worth it only you can say...


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I don't understand. What do these forums gain from banning people and topics about the qnix? Do these forums make money from people buying the other monitors?


Well in Overclockers.co.uk's case, yes, they are an online store so they justify the ban as being counterproductive to their business... And there might be some truth to that tbh, as I was on the verge of splashing out on a Hazro 30" from there before deciding first on a Catleap, then a Qnix.


----------



## OneGun

My monoprice cable got blue lines in bf3 at 120hz where as my stock cable don't.. So for me t was a waste. But it has worked for others. And it is the biggest cable I have ever used lol . now I just use it to lock my motorcycle lmao..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> My monoprice cable got blue lines in bf3 at 120hz where as my stock cable don't.. So for me t was a waste. But it has worked for others. And it is the biggest cable I have ever used lol . now I just use it to lock my motorcycle lmao..


I can tell you i bought 3 of these and 2 of them were no better(worse actually) than the stock one. But that third cable beat the stock cable by 5-8hz. It is hit or miss. They are very cheap considering. I recommend anyone really serious about hitting 120hz to buy more than one to try. Heck you could always use a spare DVI cable the size of a dinosaur


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I go to neither one of the forums mentioned and now I never will.. Plus the overclock3d guys YouTube videos take 2hrs to review braided cables lol..


Yeah the videos are ludicrous: more time yakking does not equal more in-depth analysis. They don't need videos at all for most reviews, doesn't add anything AFAIC...


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> My monoprice cable got blue lines in bf3 at 120hz where as my stock cable don't.. So for me t was a waste. But it has worked for others. And it is the biggest cable I have ever used lol . now I just use it to lock my motorcycle lmao..


Yeah I got worse results too









It's more a hawser than a cable LOL


----------



## doco

so i know a few months ago hulustar gave customers a tracking number even though they didn't pay the extra $3 for it. anyone recently order a monitor from hulustar and got a tracking number without paying? and i just read hulustar requires the buyers phone number to ship. the invoice should already include it on their end from ebay, right?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> so i know a few months ago hulustar gave customers a tracking number even though they didn't pay the extra $3 for it. anyone recently order a monitor from hulustar and got a tracking number without paying? and i just read hulustar requires the buyers phone number to ship. the invoice should already include it on their end from ebay, right?


Yes, Hulustar provides a tracking # for free...and yes, your phone # is already covered from your eBay info.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Yes, Hulustar provides a tracking # for free...and yes, your phone # is already covered from your eBay info.


that's nice to know. i sent him a msg via ebay before you replied and this is the reply i got from him... "thanks."

no joke

just "thanks." now i'm a bit worried.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> that's nice to know. i sent him a msg via ebay before you replied and this is the reply i got from him... "thanks."
> 
> no joke
> 
> just "thanks." now i'm a bit worried.


Dont worry you will have a tracking number within 48hrs..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Remember to be signing up for club with the submission form in the OP under the expandable section titled "*Club Member Sign Up (CLICK For Application) (Click to show)*"
Here are just a few I've noticed that have posted but not filled out the application form themselves.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThinkPositive*
> 
> 
> Qnix qx2710 (perfect pixel)
> seller : green-sum
> 0 dead/stuck/bright pixels
> minor light bleeding on bottom (might try the tape method)
> 120hz auto, no artifact, kinda dark brightness
> 130hz auto, horizontal red lines artifact.
> paid 309$ (+146€ custom/Vat)
> joinning the club


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumPion*
> 
> Hi, new guy here and thought I'd chime in. I just got my X-star matte and love it. I ordered a pixel perfect dvi-only matte x-star dp2710 from bigclothcraft. Ordered sunday and received thursday. The monitor appears to have no dead or stuck pixels. It has some minor backlight bleed at the top, but it's not horrendous and I can live with it. I was able to easily overclock it to 120 hz using the EVGA utility, although I haven't tested it thoroughly yet for image artifacts. My previous monitor was an LG 24" 120 hz monitor and I was able to go back to 60 hz gaming after a day or two of getting used to it. The contrast and colors on this monitor are amazing, I'm glad I went with this one over one of the LG IPS'es.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> 
> the foto aren t very good but the monitor yes^^ ty for help me to choice this one^^
> just a simple question.. if i oc it to 120hz can i use NVision for 3d??
> thank you


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Croshnar*
> 
> Got my Evo II today! From what I can see, I have 0 dead Pixels and very minimal blb. I'm so excited and can't wait to game on this beast. It's still at 60Hz, but I plan on overclocking it to 95-120. Thanks for all the help guys!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabota*
> 
> got my x-star from dreamseller today at the discount price..no dead pixel and slight backlight..then found irritating problem for me...all the osd button dont work(brightness/power/vol)...even the power led not function...any advice guy..or should i send it back


The buttons not working would be a killer for me. Especially the brightness button not working. Tell the seller about the issue and ask if you can open it up without voiding warranty to see if the button wire became unplugged or something simple like that


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screams*
> 
> Cheap price but im from UK (shipping is outragoeus for 1 cable) any Uk alternatives to not break the bank (even though monitor already accomplished that lol)


Order the Loops DVI cable from ThatCable is an UK-based company with good reputation and good products.
I ordered 2 of those cables, since I am living in the NL and selling one, but it's working flawless.


----------



## zeameth

Ordered the pixel perfect one from green-sum (it was actually the cheapest one i could find at the time). Ordered Wednesday and arrived Monday which is pretty dam good.

I do have a hot pixel about 2 inches down and 3 in from the top left which is disappointing but no other pixel issues, pretty bad back-light bleed along the bottom to the left of the logo which im hoping loosening the screws/tape-mod might fix (must remember to find the post showing how to do it)

I'm going to see what he says about the pixel as i queried this before i made the purchase.

Didn't get time to take any pictures last night but will upload some later this today.

p.s

Came with DHL and was released straight to me, will have to wait and see if they send a customs letter)


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeameth*
> 
> Ordered the pixel perfect one from green-sum (it was actually the cheapest one i could find at the time). Ordered Wednesday and arrived Monday which is pretty dam good.
> 
> I do have a hot pixel about 2 inches down and 3 in from the top left which is disappointing but no other pixel issues, pretty bad back-light bleed along the bottom to the left of the logo which im hoping loosening the screws/tape-mod might fix (must remember to find the post showing how to do it)
> 
> I'm going to see what he says about the pixel as i queried this before i made the purchase.
> 
> Didn't get time to take any pictures last night but will upload some later this today.
> 
> p.s
> 
> Came with DHL and was released straight to me, will have to wait and see if they send a customs letter)


Backlight bleed to the left of the Qnix emblem is usually helped by just loosening the two middle screws..


----------



## arvidab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Not sure why all of you guys are so stuck on exactly getting 120hz haha. I mean, if you can get 110hz or 100hz, id think thats close enough to count. Besides, im sure not all of you have the full GPU power to take on that full 120hz power.


120 (and 96) being a multiple of 24. Most videos are run at around 24 fps, if you watch videos you are better off with 96 instead of 100Hz.


----------



## kmetek

custom letter comes prior to delivery......here i have to pay in advance, and from 1.7 we have a ******* 22% tax.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arvidab*
> 
> 120 (and 96) being a multiple of 24. Most videos are run at around 24 fps, if you watch videos you are better off with 96 instead of 100Hz.


Depends if you are NTSC or PAL format, as European PAL uses 25fps (or 24.997?) so in their case 100Hz would be the proper multiple unless they feel like doing the math and getting the exact 4x refresh rate value from tweaking stuff in CRU


----------



## pastuch

I just received my QX2710 and I have to say that a dead pixel would be paradise compared to the Back Light Bleed that I have.

The bleed is SEVERE at the top left-center and is visible with the monitor brightness at 0. The bleed extends 30% of the monitor.

I ordered my pixel perfect QX2710 from Green Sum and had to pay $57 Canadian for duty because they didn't mark the package a gift. I'll post photos this evening.

UPDATE:

Pre-Backlight Bleed Fix:


Post Backlight Bleed Fix:


FOLLOW THIS GUIDE FOR BLB! Comprehensive, step by step, and totally f'ing awesome! Please update post #1 with these videos. Thank you David Thomson!





I followed Davids instructions until step 13. At that point I used standard electrical tape and *it didn't make any difference*. I was very concerned at first but I thought I should connect the monitor with the metal LCD bezel removed. Without the metal frame attached to the panel the BLB was reduced significantly. There was still some BLB but I suspected that was due to the panel sitting in the display housing without proper support. By proper support I mean the floating metal rails. Without those rails and metal frame the panel will warp slightly which looks like BLB. At this point I concluded that the metal frame was the problem like some people in this thread suggested.

Now the real question isn't *"where do I put tape"*? The best way I found to resolve this was first to slowly bend the metal frame with my hands so it was as flat as possible. I put it on a table and kept adjusting until only the ends were slightly elevated, damn near flat. At that point I reattached the metal frame and tested again, the BLB was back but not as pronounced. I removed the metal frame from the panel AGAIN. This time I twisted the top and bottom of the metal bezel up and away from the edges of the viewable screen area. I suspected that the edges of the metal bezel were too concave and were compressing the sides of the display, causing BLB. By twisting the bezel in the opposite direction, making the frame slightly convex in the areas with BLB (Only the top and bottom), but maintaining the perfectly flat stature of the frame I was able to get incredible results.

I hope that the frame adjustment instructions above make sense, I would have made a video but I honestly didn't think it would work. This took me over 3 hours because every time I made a change I would reconnect the monitor to test. The problem is that you don't know if it really was a success until both the metal frame and the rails are attached.

With the provided cable I can do 120hz with no artifacts. The problem now is where do I get a 25 foot ultra high quality dual link dvi cable?

I hope this helps some people. Thanks again to David Thomson for the wonderful tear down video.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> I just received my QX2710 and I have to say that a dead pixel would be paradise compared to the Back Light Bleed that I have.
> 
> The bleed is SEVERE at the top left-center and is visible with the monitor brightness at 0. The bleed extends 30% of the monitor.
> 
> I ordered mine from Green Sum and had to pay $57 Canadian for duty because they didn't mark the package a gift. I'll post photos this evening.


Follow what MenacingTuba did in his review. Decrease the pressure of the bezel on the panel.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1403318/qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> I just received my QX2710 and I have to say that a dead pixel would be paradise compared to the Back Light Bleed that I have.
> 
> The bleed is SEVERE at the top left-center and is visible with the monitor brightness at 0. The bleed extends 30% of the monitor.
> 
> I ordered mine from Green Sum and had to pay $57 Canadian for duty because they didn't mark the package a gift. I'll post photos this evening.


Don't fret too much man, it's fairly easily fixable.


----------



## rubixcube101

Just pulled the pin on one from big cloth craft


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Don't fret too much man, it's fairly easily fixable.


Yes, *fairly*. Bottom middle spots are the truly easy ones as can be addressed with screw removal. Though not totally solved; that still requires tape which means the frame has gotta come off.


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes, *fairly*. Bottom middle spots are the truly easy ones as can be addressed with screw removal. Though not totally solved; that still requires tape which means the frame has gotta come off.


What about top-middle because it's so bad that if I can't fix it I have to send it back.


----------



## Croshnar

I got it to 120Hz with NO PROBLEMS! I'm so stocked. This monitor was worth every penny.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well as there are no screws on top there is no easy way to change/release pressure on the panel up there. So you gotta do the tape fix which requires removing the whole panel and taking off the frame. I haven't personally had the balls to attempt this delicate work yet but plenty here have...


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Croshnar*
> 
> 
> I got it to 120Hz with NO PROBLEMS! I'm so stocked. This monitor was worth every penny.


How is your BLB?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Croshnar*
> 
> 
> I got it to 120Hz with NO PROBLEMS! I'm so stocked. This monitor was worth every penny.


Welcome to the club bud..Remember to fill out the app from the first page..


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> I just received my QX2710 and I have to say that a dead pixel would be paradise compared to the Back Light Bleed that I have.
> 
> The bleed is SEVERE at the top left-center and is visible with the monitor brightness at 0. The bleed extends 30% of the monitor.
> 
> I ordered mine from Green Sum and had to pay $57 Canadian for duty because they didn't mark the package a gift. I'll post photos this evening.
> 
> updated with photo:


Updated with the photo. Does this look fixable to you gents?


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> Updated with the photo. Does this look fixable to you gents?


I am betting that the BLB is caused by a bent metal frame surrounding the LCD panel. After you remove the metal frame from the LCD panel, you should be able to tell if the BLB disappears. Make sure you leave the monitor connected with power and plug it in to test for BLB before putting the metal frame back on. If it is indeed the metal frame, the top will be difficult to bend/reshape, but it is do-able. If it isn't caused by the metal frame, you would need to go deeper but at this point, I would highly recommend against it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah and tape can also help fill gaps and such. Yeah that's bad bleed and the frame is most certainly bent as suggested above.


----------



## AntiStupid

Just hooked mine up, looks like I will need to do something about this however...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AntiStupid*
> 
> Just hooked mine up, looks like I will need to do something about this however...


What the heck is up with that?


----------



## Croshnar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> How is your BLB?


Very minimal BLB.


----------



## Croshnar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Welcome to the club bud..Remember to fill out the app from the first page..


Thanks a lot for all your help! I did fill it out.


----------



## AntiStupid

And fixed. The black bit is the lower middle support for the panel, it was too long and was bowing the screen.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AntiStupid*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And fixed. The black bit is the lower middle support for the panel, it was too long and was bowing the screen.


Glad to got it fixed man.. You OC that bad boy yet?


----------



## jadenx2

according to DHL tracking, it says customs has cleared it in Cincinnati, OH. so does this mean it's on its way?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> according to DHL tracking, it says customs has cleared it in Cincinnati, OH. so does this mean it's on its way?


You should get it tomorrow..


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AntiStupid*
> 
> Just hooked mine up, looks like I will need to do something about this however...


The first user with a *B*ack*L*ight*S*hadow? Wonder if it is a dead LED.


----------



## Earthylol

Aloha, just an update here! So I ordered a pixel perfect X-STAR monitor from dream-seller and I got the monitor yesterday! All I can say is that the monitor is wonderful. No dead pixels and no blacklight bleeding as far as I can see. I overclocked it to 120hz with no problems apart from the colors getting a bit dark but I solved it by using dascth's calibration profile linked in the first post.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Earthylol*
> 
> Aloha, just an update here! So I ordered a pixel perfect X-STAR monitor from dream-seller and I got the monitor yesterday! All I can say is that the monitor is wonderful. No dead pixels and no blacklight bleeding as far as I can see. I overclocked it to 120hz with no problems apart from the colors getting a bit dark but I solved it by using dascth's calibration profile linked in the first post.


Post some pics and fill out application and join the club bud..Glad you got a good monitor...


----------



## Earthylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Post some pics and fill out application and join the club bud..Glad you got a good monitor...


Oh shoot! I didn't realize I posted in the club thread! Alright, give me some minutes though!









EDIT: No lightsources in my room and it's pretty dark outside. Hope this works


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Earthylol*
> 
> Oh shoot! I didn't realize I posted in the club thread! Alright, give me some minutes though!


You can post and ask all you want bud..You don't have to join i was just making a suggestion..


----------



## wntrsnowg

erik29gamer, your club submission has be temporarily deleted off the members list due to no verification post in this thread.

AntiStupid, that is the first time I have seen a shadow like that. Glad it was an easy fix!


----------



## majnu

I updated my drivers today 320.49 and now I can hit 120Hz. How odd is that. No green lines or anything. What I did do was instead of using CRU, I created the custom resolution from NV CP instead.

Will test it out further tonight and get my beady eye inspection mode out.


----------



## EniGma1987

Here is mine. Bought a regular QNix model from Green-Sum for $289. No dead or otherwise defective pixels, moderate backlight bleed by the QNix logo in the bottom middle. Overclocks to 96Hz no problem. Wont go to 120Hz on this Nvidia GT610 graphics card I use at work. Fine for me since all I wanted was 96Hz anyway and its just a work monitor.


----------



## theclash150

Ordered my perfect pixel matte Qnix ($309) on Wednesday, June 19th from Green-Sum. Arrived Monday, June 24th but I was not home. Finally got it Tuesday, June 25th. Box was fully wrapped in bubble wrap and there was no external damage to the box. It was shipped through DHL.

The monitor itself had no physical damage and the packaging was firm and seemed pretty good. I used the included cable and it fired right up with no issues. It has zero dead pixels and there is some slight back light bleeding near the upper left quadrant that seems to disappear when the bezel is pushed.

I'll post pictures when I get off of work today.


----------



## AntiStupid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> The first user with a *B*ack*L*ight*S*hadow? Wonder if it is a dead LED.


Turned out to be a foam standoff that was putting too much pressure on the back casing of the panel, 10 minute fix


----------



## jadenx2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Here is mine. Bought a regular QNix model from Green-Sum for $289. No dead or otherwise defective pixels, moderate backlight bleed by the QNix logo in the bottom middle. Overclocks to 96Hz no problem. Wont go to 120Hz on this Nvidia GT610 graphics card I use at work. Fine for me since all I wanted was 96Hz anyway and its just a work monitor.


i believe you could try loosening the bottom middle screws and that should relieve the pressure to get rid of that BLB


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Here is mine. Bought a regular QNix model from Green-Sum for $289. No dead or otherwise defective pixels, moderate backlight bleed by the QNix logo in the bottom middle. Overclocks to 96Hz no problem. Wont go to 120Hz on this Nvidia GT610 graphics card I use at work. Fine for me since all I wanted was 96Hz anyway and its just a work monitor.


how do you get the monitor in that state to test blb?

I normally have a black wallpaper to show it, but always wondered how you get it like that.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Wallpaper not the most thorough method. Click the link below and hit F11 for full screen.

http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=1


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> i believe you could try loosening the bottom middle screws and that should relieve the pressure to get rid of that BLB


Tried that and it didnt help at all. Something is pressing against the monitor thats for sure. If I touch the very bottom of the frame then I can see the crystals get all wavy in the monitor an inch and a half above where I am touching right in the BLB area. So I just have to open the frame up and fix whatever it is. And at the same time will be removing the remaining part of the stand sticking down that I am not using.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> how do you get the monitor in that state to test blb?
> 
> I normally have a black wallpaper to show it, but always wondered how you get it like that.


I just made a blank black image in MS Paint and then opened it as a slideshow in the Windows image viewer. The reply above this is probably an easier way to do it if you already have the link handy.

Also, upon closer inspection I have found that I have 1 single stuck pixel on green. But it is in the very bottom left corner and is not noticeable on anything but a flat black background in that area and only if I am actively looking for it. So Im still plenty happy with the monitor.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Tried that and it didnt help at all. Something is pressing against the monitor thats for sure. If I touch the very bottom of the frame then I can see the crystals get all wavy in the monitor an inch and a half above where I am touching right in the BLB area. So I just have to open the frame up and fix whatever it is.


I think by "frame" here you mean the front bezel piece. When we refer to the "frame" it's an actual thin metal rectangle piece that is installed on the panel itself and is itself what you need to "fix" by removing and straightening it and/or applying tape to it's underside (so against the panel). It is probably too tight against the panel where your spots are. Or bent.


----------



## pc-gamer

folks iv been using the catleap driver for over clocking and its working brilliantly but I see nvidia have a new driver out so can I install the new nvidia driver without worrying about my overclocking?


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-gamer*
> 
> folks iv been using the catleap driver for over clocking and its working brilliantly but I see nvidia have a new driver out so can I install the new nvidia driver without worrying about my overclocking?


I believe Nvidia lets you overclock without unlocking up to a certain point, but artificially capped the pixel clock on DVI to 330 MHz. I believe you need to go above this to get to 120Hz+ so you will need to run the driver unlocker/patcher if you wish to go above the 100Hz range of things.


----------



## pc-gamer

So looks like I had to repeat these steps again

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1840#post_20033090

Thanks again Coolio


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> I just received my QX2710 and I have to say that a dead pixel would be paradise compared to the Back Light Bleed that I have.
> 
> The bleed is SEVERE at the top left-center and is visible with the monitor brightness at 0. The bleed extends 30% of the monitor.
> 
> I ordered mine from Green Sum and had to pay $57 Canadian for duty because they didn't mark the package a gift. I'll post photos this evening.
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> Pre-Backlight Bleed Fix:
> 
> 
> Post Backlight Bleed Fix:
> 
> 
> FOLLOW THIS GUIDE FOR BLB! Comprehensive, step by step, and totally f'ing awesome! Please update post #1 with these videos. Thank you David Thomson!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I followed Davids instructions until step 13. At that point I used standard electrical tape and *it didn't make any difference*. I was very concerned at first but I thought I should connect the monitor with the metal LCD bezel removed. Without the metal frame attached to the panel the BLB was reduced significantly. There was still some BLB but I suspected that was due to the panel sitting in the display housing without proper support. By proper support I mean the floating metal rails. Without those rails and metal frame the panel will warp slightly which looks like BLB. At this point I concluded that the metal frame was the problem like some people in this thread suggested.
> 
> Now the real question isn't *"where do I put tape"*? The best way I found to resolve this was first to slowly bend the metal frame with my hands so it was as flat as possible. I put it on a table and kept adjusting until only the ends were slightly elevated, damn near flat. At that point I reattached the metal frame and tested again, the BLB was back but not as pronounced. I removed the metal frame from the panel AGAIN. This time I twisted the top and bottom of the metal bezel up and away from the edges of the viewable screen area. I suspected that the inside edges of the metal frame were too concave and were pushing down on the sides of the display, causing BLB. Adding tape didn't help because it does nothing to alleviate pressure. By twisting the bezel in the opposite direction, making the frame slightly convex in the areas with BLB (Only the top and bottom), but maintaining the perfectly flat stature of the frame I was able to get incredible results.
> 
> I hope that the frame adjustment instructions above make sense, I would have made a video but I honestly didn't think it would work. This took me over 3 hours because every time I made a change I would reconnect the monitor to test. The problem is that you don't know if it really was a success until both the metal frame and the rails are attached.
> 
> With the provided cable I can do 120hz with no artifacts. The problem now is where do I get a 25 foot ultra high quality dual link dvi cable?
> 
> I hope this helps some people. Thanks again to David Thomson for the wonderful tear down video.


Updated with my success... the manufacturer needs to work on these metal frames! lol


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Nice work and thanks for the info.

Yeah I would say "ah they don't care" and thats one reason they are so cheap but they definitely could do a better job cause apparently some IPS model from another manufacturer uses this same bezel and does not have these issues.


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Nice work and thanks for the info.
> 
> Yeah I would say "ah they don't care" and thats one reason they are so cheap but they definitely could do a better job cause apparently some IPS model from another manufacturer uses this same bezel and does not have these issues.


I suspect the PLS panel may be more sensitive to the uneven metal frame than an IPS would.


----------



## monkeys

That's as good as pixel perfect... you have to open up to fix blb


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> I suspect the PLS panel may be more sensitive to the uneven metal frame than an IPS would.


I'm not sure...I had an Overlord X270OC that was damaged pretty badly in shipping and had some god awful bleed and that was an IPS.

I assume that was due to a bent metal panel or something similar as well.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Right but my point is that the build quality and QC is way better on those from the factory it would seem. Or you could even say that those were put together _properly_ and these QNIX/X-Star were not. Or maybe these housings are all "A-" parts too who knows.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Wallpaper not the most thorough method. Click the link below and hit F11 for full screen.
> 
> http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=1


no that's not the same, when you look for blb using that it won't show the extent of it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Um...ok...i don't know wth you are talking about at this point. That's a full black screen and certainly shows the "extent" of mine.

The only other link i've seen thrown around is this one:

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/


----------



## Spartan F8

FYI guys a member in the other Qnix forum pointed out that we have a new Qnix contender with a display port and hdmi now. This does have a scaler though (input lag). Not confirmed if they overclock yet or if they have a different PCB.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Express-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DPORT-27-Monitor-DP-HDMI-DVI-/121127086760?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33bcaaa8


----------



## jadenx2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> FYI guys a member in the other Qnix forum pointed out that we have a new Qnix contender with a display port and hdmi now. This does have a scaler though (input lag). Not confirmed if they overclock yet or if they have a different PCB.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Express-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DPORT-27-Monitor-DP-HDMI-DVI-/121127086760?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33bcaaa8


good alternative for cards with no dual link DVI ports...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well if it does OC-doubtful even without the presence of the scaler-it would be the first multi-input 1440P display that can as far as I know. At least from Korea.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well if it does OC-doubtful even without the presence of the scaler-it would be the first multi-input 1440P display that can as far as I know. At least from Korea.


I'm sure I saw a few CrossOver, Yamakasi and ShiMian monitors that have multi-input models.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes wasn't saying they don't exist rather that none can do higher than 60hz.


----------



## Earthylol

Hey, I just noticed something on my X-Star monitor. The blue power LED (bottom right of the monitor) constantly blinks, flashes and sometimes it disappears for some seconds and comes back when the monitor is on. Is it supposed to be that way? It's kinda annoying


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Earthylol*
> 
> Hey, I just noticed something on my X-Star monitor. The blue power LED (bottom right of the monitor) constantly blinks, flashes and sometimes it disappears for some seconds and comes back when the monitor is on. Is it supposed to be that way? It's kinda annoying


Sounds like the blue Led could be dying..Cheap fix would be to put a tiny piece of electrical tape on it..


----------



## Earthylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Sounds let like the blue Led could be dying..


Hmm, that's weird! I got the monitor three days ago, no idea if this problem existed back then though. Oh well, not that I really care about a LED. It can't be related to a monitor issue, can it? I mean, the monitor is working just fine!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Earthylol*
> 
> Hmm, that's weird! I got the monitor three days ago, no idea if this problem existed back then though. Oh well, not that I really care about a LED. It can't be related to a monitor issue, can it? I mean, the monitor is working just fine!


No it should be good.. I know when fan leds are about to die the start blinking first and then die.. Should not affect the panel at all.


----------



## FlipnPanda

So after I attempted overclocking my monitor to 120 hz it failed and reverted back. Now my screen is sort of spazzy. Have I broken my monitor and is there a fix? I've ordered it from hulustar less than 30 days ago. Could I still return it back?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlipnPanda*
> 
> So after I attempted overclocking my monitor to 120 hz it failed and reverted back. Now my screen is sort of spazzy. Have I broken my monitor and is there a fix? I've ordered it from hulustar less than 30 days ago. Could I still return it back?


What you mean by Spazzy?What GPU u have?Did you use CRU and patch the drivers?Did you put in test mode?


----------



## FlipnPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> What you mean by Spazzy?What GPU u have?Did you use CRU and patch the drivers?Did you put in test mode?


Its hard to explain.. Its like a flickering. And I have a gtx 780 and yes I did all of that.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlipnPanda*
> 
> Its hard to explain.. Its like a flickering. And I have a gtx 780 and yes I did all of that.


OCing it to much should only add lines on screen..The way you said it rejected the 120hz is weird..So now even at 60hz your monitor is still screwed up?Did you buy square trade warranty?


----------



## FlipnPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> OCing it to much should only add lines on screen..The way you said it rejected the 120hz is weird..So now even at 60hz your monitor is still screwed up?Did you buy square trade warranty?


No I didn't buy the warranty =\ But the flickering seemed to stop. But I'm experiencing ghosting now.. =\ Damn I'm panicking like crazy.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlipnPanda*
> 
> No I didn't buy the warranty =\ But the flickering seemed to stop. But I'm experiencing ghosting now.. =\ Damn I'm panicking like crazy.


I think you can still buy the warranty..How bad is ghosting?Are you just freaking out and looking for stuff to be wrong with monitor?Just turn monitor off for a while and try it again later..


----------



## FlipnPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I think you can still buy the warranty..How bad is ghosting?Are you just freaking out and looking for stuff to be wrong with monitor?Just turn monitor off for a while and try it again later..


I think I'll just buy the warranty now then. And so far I'm only noticing ghosting in Blacklight Retribution. But ya I'm just freaking out because I don't want it to be broken lol. I'll turn it off for a bit. Thanks for the help man!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlipnPanda*
> 
> I think I'll just buy the warranty now then. And so far I'm only noticing ghosting in Blacklight Retribution. But ya I'm just freaking out because I don't want it to be broken lol. I'll turn it off for a bit. Thanks for the help man!


No problem bud..


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> FYI guys a member in the other Qnix forum pointed out that we have a new Qnix contender with a display port and hdmi now. This does have a scaler though (input lag). Not confirmed if they overclock yet or if they have a different PCB.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Express-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DPORT-27-Monitor-DP-HDMI-DVI-/121127086760?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33bcaaa8


1) Does having another port apart from a DualLink-DVI mean that it has in-built scalars?

2) I presume if so, the scalars work on the DL-DVI port too....


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> 1) Does having another port apart from a DualLink-DVI mean that it has in-built scalars?
> 
> 2) I presume if so, the scalars work on the DL-DVI port too....


Usually multi-input monitors mean they have scalers and would increase input lag.

The QNIX QX2710 and X-STAR DP2710 are fast for PLS/IPS monitors and only have 7ms of input lag.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

8ms. The specs on the page for this Evolution II say the same. I assume that's PLS too based on the specs and the listed "Samsung wide viewing angle".

Also noticed it claims this stock stand can tilt but I sure don't see how...


----------



## Screams

Well im running fine @ 110hz, couldn't see any difference between that and 120hz so i can't justify buying a 24/28awg dvi d cable just to get that little bit more hz. When i wacth movies i just put it to 96hz




(that mouse matt sucks but im stuck with it till i build my corian desk then i can use my razer Goliath one)


----------



## Sempre

Count me in


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> 8ms. The specs on the page for this Evolution II say the same. I assume that's PLS too based on the specs and the listed "Samsung wide viewing angle".
> 
> Also noticed it claims this stock stand can tilt but I sure don't see how...


He was talking about 7ms input lag. The 8ms on box is response time from grey to grey.. And it tilts but you need to be The Incredible Hulk to get it two.. I almost broke mine tilting with 1 arm when I first got it lol..


----------



## FlipnPanda

Sorry if this has been posted somewhere else, but how can I hide the "Test Mode" watermark?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlipnPanda*
> 
> Sorry if this has been posted somewhere else, but how can I hide the "Test Mode" watermark?


I know its possible. Google searching found this: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2509241


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Count me in


Nice. use the member list application form in the OP

p.s. nice keyboard. i use the same one


----------



## Intake

Hmm, any advice on what I should buy guys? I was thinking of picking the QNIX QX2710 monitor from green sum but wasnt sure if I should take the risk and buy the non perfect pixel edition for $290 or the perfect pixel edition for $310. I know that green sum doesn't consider dead/dark pixels as a dead pixel in the perfect pixel version, but the guarantee of no bright pixels sound kind of worth it. Not sure if it will justify the cost of spending $20 more because it seem like bright/stuck pixels are very rare to find on these monitors. Any advice or input would be much appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## OneGun

It's only $20 difference.. For $20 me personally I would get the perfect pixel just to set my mid at ease.. When I bought mine the perfect one was $75 more so I went with regular one.. You know if you got the cheaper one and it had bright pixels you would be kicking yourself everyday you looked at it for not paying the extra $20..


----------



## UNOE

I can't seem to overclock now as well as before. I had 7970's but now I have one GTX 780.
Before I could do 120hz now about 110hz..

Its funny everyone on here that said nvidia should be better clocker. This also confirms the GPU has just as much to do with the overclock as the screen does.


----------



## AntiStupid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> It's only $20 difference.. For $20 me personally I would get the perfect pixel just to set my mid at ease.. When I bought mine the perfect one was $75 more so I went with regular one.. You know if you got the cheaper one and it had bright pixels you would be kicking yourself everyday you looked at it for not paying the extra $20..


I'm not so sure that the PP monitors have actually been inspected.. At least on dream-seller's page they say they'll refund you $5 for each dead or stuck pixel, which doesn't tell me that they know it's a perfect monitor. When I opened mine up there was zero evidence that it had been inspected previously, I think it's just a marketing ploy. Needless to say, I bought the PP version anyway


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I can't seem to overclock now as well as before. I had 7970's but now I have one GTX 780.
> Before I could do 120hz now about 110hz..
> 
> Its funny everyone on here that said nvidia should be better clocker. This also confirms the GPU has just as much to do with the overclock as the screen does.


Still using CRU?

I can't see why NV would clock better across the board. It's perhaps *easier* to do so not needing any third party help. Though it could turn out CRU is the superior and more reliable method (even without fine-tuning any values) especially if the answer to my above question is no.

And I think some more testing as well as more cases besides your own would be warranted before anything can be 'confirmed' either way. I have a GTX 480 I could try...


----------



## Intake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AntiStupid*
> 
> I'm not so sure that the PP monitors have actually been inspected.. At least on dream-seller's page they say they'll refund you $5 for each dead or stuck pixel, which doesn't tell me that they know it's a perfect monitor. When I opened mine up there was zero evidence that it had been inspected previously, I think it's just a marketing ploy. Needless to say, I bought the PP version anyway


Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking, that it's a marketing ploy since there's been a few members that bought the $290 non pixel perfect one and received it without any pixel imperfections.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> It's only $20 difference.. For $20 me personally I would get the perfect pixel just to set my mid at ease.. When I bought mine the perfect one was $75 more so I went with regular one.. You know if you got the cheaper one and it had bright pixels you would be kicking yourself everyday you looked at it for not paying the extra $20..


Good point, I guess I'll just shell out the extra $20. Bright pixels would be really annoying because I'd see it all the time and I'd be regretting the purchase and not paying the extra $20 for that guarantee so that I can have free exchanges if I happen to get a bad monitor.

Guess I'l make the purchase within the next few hours!! Thanks guys.

Does anyone know if EMS works throughout the weekend too? It'd be crazy if they did cause I'll have the monitor at my doorsteps by Monday or Tuesday if they did.

And should I request for bubble/foam wrapping outside of the box ? Or is that something they automatically do?


----------



## jadenx2

alright guys, so just received my QNIX today. the good news is i dont have any dead pixels! the bad news is, i have some bad BLB:



the camera makes it look worse than it appears, but you can see where the bleed is coming from. so before i try to fix it, what the do you guys think the issue is here?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Perhaps bent frame however though those spots are near the two outer screws so I would try loosening those first. Usually we see two inner spots on the bottom that the inner two screws can address.


----------



## RageLevel9001

New member here.

I ordered a ONIX OX2710 Matte from green-sum on Sunday afternoon, and it was delivered Wednesday morning (yesterday). I was finally able to unbox and test it today







.

The entire package was well protected in 2-3 layers of bubble wrap and arrived without any visible damage.
  

The ONIX was surprisingly light yet sturdy considering its size. I didn't bother with assembling the stand because I am planning to run the monitor on a dual vertical stand along with my HP ZR2740w. It will take the place of the ASUS VG248QE that can be seen in the pics below. The stand is expected to arrive on Friday (tomorrow). Powering on the monitor revealed minimal BLB, very uniform colors across the panel, and only one stuck pixel (stuck at green). I guess I got lucky







.


The default color settings out of the box was actually very good; it was very similar to the HP that was using a color calibration profile from TFTCentral. I may just not bother with color calibration on the QNIX.


The amount of BLB was also very similar to the HP during my quick comparison, although it was difficult to tell due to the room being brightly lit an causing too many reflections on the screens. I will do the comparison again in the near future in a darker environment.


Note that on the last two pics, the QNIX is at a weird angle because it is only standing on its stub and leaning against the ASUS behind it.

I was able to overclock the ONIX to 96Hz from the nVidia Control Panel very easily (just add custom resolution and you're done, as others have mentioned). I haven't tried any higher yet (since CRU is required), but I plan to do so after I get it properly set-up on the stand. I will also do some more comparisons with the HP and the ASUS, such as BLB in darker environments, ghosting/response time, input lag, and color calibration.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Right on and welcome.


----------



## Lhiannon

After reading this thread (yes, ALL of it) and the corresponding thread on OverclockersClub, I purchased mine last thursday and rec'd it tuesday. Really, I couldn't be more happy. Got mine form Hulustar for 317, with the "free expedited shipping and pixel perfect", and my monitor has no dead pixels and no noticable BLB. Thanks for the info, guys. This feels like one of the best computer related deals I have ever gotten.


----------



## Philly27

Just made the leap! [Perfect Pixel] QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 2560x1440 Monitor [Glossy] can't wait till it gets here!


----------



## jadenx2

so it's generally recommended to NOT keep the monitor on OC'd refresh rates? only for gaming, is this correct?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> so it's generally recommended to NOT keep the monitor on OC'd refresh rates? only for gaming, is this correct?


I run at 60hz unless gaming..I don't wanna have to deal with frame retention issues..


----------



## jadenx2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I run at 60hz unless gaming..I don't wanna have to deal with frame retention issues..


so how do you switch back and forth? is there some sort of shortcut or is it just through the nvidia control panel?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> so how do you switch back and forth? is there some sort of shortcut or is it just through the nvidia control panel?


I have AMD but yes i use the AMD control panel..


----------



## jadenx2

can i still OC with a 2nd monitor locked at 60Hz or no?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> can i still OC with a 2nd monitor locked at 60Hz or no?


Yep.


----------



## jadenx2

alright so that brings me to an issue i'm having..

i followed the short guide on the front page for the pixel patch and run Test Mode, but when i enable Test Mode and reboot, i don't see the watermark. i have a single GTX 680.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> alright so that brings me to an issue i'm having..
> 
> i followed the short guide on the front page for the pixel patch and run Test Mode, but when i enable Test Mode and reboot, i don't see the watermark. i have a single GTX 680.


Hmm, you're supposed to see the watermark...

Just follow this - 




- Patch drivers with Pixel Patch
- reboot
- Enable Test Mode
- reboot
- Use CRU to create new resolution/Hz entries (just watch the vid above)
- reboot
- Select your desired refresh rate
- reboot
- Use this program to remove the watermark
- reboot
- Enjoy


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> can i still OC with a 2nd monitor locked at 60Hz or no?


Yes but if you run any refresh rate stability tests they will not be able to accurately report your refresh rate. To egt that to work simply temporarily disable your 60hz monitor.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> alright so that brings me to an issue i'm having..
> 
> i followed the short guide on the front page for the pixel patch and run Test Mode, but when i enable Test Mode and reboot, i don't see the watermark. i have a single GTX 680.


Back when I got my Catleap 2B a long time ago and did all this patching and test mode stuff, I never saw any watermark either. However I was able to properly overclock fine and go past the pixel limits of an unpatched driver, so I knew it was working. No one could ever explain to me why I didnt ever see a watermark either.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Back when I got my Catleap 2B a long time ago and did all this patching and test mode stuff, I never saw any watermark either. However I was able to properly overclock fine and go past the pixel limits of an unpatched driver, so I knew it was working. No one could ever explain to me why I didnt ever see a watermark either.


There are several reasons you would not see a watermark. Anything from that registry entry being corrupted to the picture file containing the display property of the watermark being missing or broke. Also, you just said you messed around with patching and then turned around and said you never patched your driver. If i ignore that and you never did patch the video driver i would want to see what driver version and how it was installed. Knowing this it could be troubleshot why it worked. The fact no-one ever could explain it sounds like a lack of information.

If i past the pixel limit without patched drivers i would be very curious to see if there was frame skipping. This would compensate for the limit not being broken. also if it did not frame skip it also would be nice to run a horizontal line test to see if the set refresh rate was actually displaying the reported frame count using something like powerstrip.

But who knows you could have been too cool to need the patch LOL


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lhiannon*
> 
> After reading this thread (yes, ALL of it) and the corresponding thread on OverclockersClub, I purchased mine last thursday and rec'd it tuesday. Really, I couldn't be more happy. Got mine form Hulustar for 317, with the "free expedited shipping and pixel perfect", and my monitor has no dead pixels and no noticable BLB. Thanks for the info, guys. This feels like one of the best computer related deals I have ever gotten.


Yea, i feel the same way. I only buy things when i feel like it is a good deal. Rarely buy anything msrp


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There are several reasons you would not see a watermark. Anything from that registry entry being corrupted to the picture file containing the display property of the watermark being missing or broke. Also, you just said you messed around with patching and then turned around and said you never patched your driver. If i ignore that and you never did patch the video driver i would want to see what driver version and how it was installed. Knowing this it could be troubleshot why it worked. The fact no-one ever could explain it sounds like a lack of information.
> 
> If i past the pixel limit without patched drivers i would be very curious to see if there was frame skipping. This would compensate for the limit not being broken. also if it did not frame skip it also would be nice to run a horizontal line test to see if the set refresh rate was actually displaying the reported frame count using something like powerstrip.
> 
> But who knows you could have been too cool to need the patch LOL


I never once said I didnt patch the drivers.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I never once said I didnt patch the drivers.


Umm ok now that your comment has been edited it makes sense but most of what my comment said is still valid. (too lazy to edit it to match yours)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well I've seen it pretty much totally blend into certain busy backgrounds...


----------



## jadenx2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> alright guys, so just received my QNIX today. the good news is i dont have any dead pixels! the bad news is, i have some bad BLB:
> 
> 
> 
> the camera makes it look worse than it appears, but you can see where the bleed is coming from. so before i try to fix it, what the do you guys think the issue is here?


ok so update on this BLB. i tried loosening the bottom corner screws and don't think it made it any better. then i noticed there's a small gap between the bezel and the screen, and when i apply some pressure, it seems to make the BLB go away.

so knowing this, what's the next step? taking this thing apart?


----------



## Azgalor

Well I just wanted to stop by and thank everyone for this thread. I read a great part of it including the first page and after a few days of research I finally pulled the trigger on the Qnix. I cannot express how happy and amazed I am with this monitor! It exceeded my expectations as some of the negative reviews and complaints (which are few) made me stay grounded on what I would get in the box.

Behold, I went with Green-sum as per the excellent reviews and feedback on here and he did not disappoint. Paid $289 for the non "Pixel Perfect" as recommended on the FAQ and I got a nearly flawless panel with very minimal (barely there) BLB and just ONE dead pixel at the bottom near center as you can see (it is right above my mouse cursor). It is not a bright pixel, it is just a darker non active pixel that you cannot almost see with the naked eye, you really need to actually put your face to the screen.

I took a distanced picture of the monitor as instructed in the FAQ to not exaggerate the BLB and this is the most accurate shot I got. I can definitely live with that for the $289 I paid.

I am currently on a MacBook Pro with a HD6770M and I did manage to OC to 84hz using SwitchResX, via a miniDP to Dual Link DVI adapter I got on Amazon. (For anyone wondering if it works with Macs). At 84 it is a stable OC but I do get a bit of color artifacts, though few. I am staying at 60 on the Mac as I don't plan to game on it and will be building a gaming PC soon to power this monster of a monitor. Hoping for 120hz gaming @ 1440p.

So from me, Green-Sum gets a thumbs up and so does this monitor. It is definitely worth it and don't let the few negative experiences deter you from it if bang-for-buck and value is your #1 priority.

To add a final note, I am using the recommended Asus PB278Q V3 ICC Profile and color is just amazing.

Thanks again everyone.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azgalor*
> 
> Well I just wanted to stop by and thank everyone for this thread. I read a great part of it including the first page and after a few days of research I finally pulled the trigger on the Qnix. I cannot express how happy and amazed I am with this monitor! It exceeded my expectations as some of the negative reviews and complaints (which are few) made me stay grounded on what I would get in the box.
> 
> Behold, I went with Green-sum as per the excellent reviews and feedback on here and he did not disappoint. Paid $289 for the non "Pixel Perfect" as recommended on the FAQ and I got a nearly flawless panel with very minimal (barely there) BLB and just ONE dead pixel at the bottom near center as you can see (it is right above my mouse cursor). It is not a bright pixel, it is just a darker non active pixel that you cannot almost see with the naked eye, you really need to actually put your face to the screen.
> 
> I took a distanced picture of the monitor as instructed in the FAQ to not exaggerate the BLB and this is the most accurate shot I got. I can definitely live with that for the $289 I paid.
> 
> I am currently on a MacBook Pro with a HD6770M and I did manage to OC to 84hz using SwitchResX, via a miniDP to Dual Link DVI adapter I got on Amazon. (For anyone wondering if it works with Macs). At 84 it is a stable OC but I do get a bit of color artifacts, though few. I am staying at 60 on the Mac as I don't plan to game on it and will be building a gaming PC soon to power this monster of a monitor. Hoping for 120hz gaming @ 1440p.
> 
> So from me, Green-Sum gets a thumbs up and so does this monitor. It is definitely worth it and don't let the few negative experiences deter you from it if bang-for-buck and value is your #1 priority.
> 
> To add a final note, I am using the recommended Asus PB278Q V3 ICC Profile and color is just amazing.
> 
> Thanks again everyone.


Glad you got a good one bud.. That BLB you have in the bottom looks like the type that can be removed by loosening the two middle screws in the back..


----------



## Intricate09

Alright, thanks to you guys I pulled the trigger on two of these bad boys, and a GTX 770 to power 'em both. I'll report back when they arrive.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intricate09*
> 
> Alright, thanks to you guys I pulled the trigger on two of these bad boys, and a GTX 770 to power 'em both. I'll report back when they arrive.


----------



## Heliar

17 Shipment on hold BRISTOL - UK 10:43

16 Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment BRISTOL - UK 10:42

What does this mean? Do they want the receipt of my original price paid on Ebay or is this them just asking for me to pay that VAT/handling charges? Not sure what is happening since I had to get my friend to pay for it (no ebay account)

EDIT: Never mind, some deep controlled breathing and a quick Google search got it all sorted, hopefully.

Paid via their online payment service (DHL). Haven't received any email confirmations or an update on the track yet though, it has been around 40mins.


----------



## zeameth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heliar*
> 
> 17 Shipment on hold BRISTOL - UK 10:43
> 
> 16 Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment BRISTOL - UK 10:42
> 
> What does this mean? Do they want the receipt of my original price paid on Ebay or is this them just asking for me to pay that VAT/handling charges? Not sure what is happening since I had to get my friend to pay for it (no ebay account)
> 
> EDIT: Never mind, some deep controlled breathing and a quick Google search got it all sorted, hopefully.
> 
> Paid via their online payment service (DHL). Haven't received any email confirmations or an update on the track yet though, it has been around 40mins.


that's interesting, DHL delivered mine last week (to Cambridge) without holding for payment, as yet i have not received anything regarding post delivery payment either


----------



## jadenx2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> ok so update on this BLB. i tried loosening the bottom corner screws and don't think it made it any better. then i noticed there's a small gap between the bezel and the screen, and when i apply some pressure, it seems to make the BLB go away.
> 
> so knowing this, what's the next step? taking this thing apart?


bump


----------



## Heliar

This is turning out to be a lengthy process.

Ordered my QNIX from Green-Sum on Monday 24th, only just got to my local distribution centre today (28th). Now after making my payment they told me I have to wait until monday for it to be delivered... Jealous of everyone getting theirs in like 3 days.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heliar*
> 
> 17 Shipment on hold BRISTOL - UK 10:43
> 
> 16 Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment BRISTOL - UK 10:42
> 
> What does this mean? Do they want the receipt of my original price paid on Ebay or is this them just asking for me to pay that VAT/handling charges? Not sure what is happening since I had to get my friend to pay for it (no ebay account)
> 
> EDIT: Never mind, some deep controlled breathing and a quick Google search got it all sorted, hopefully.
> 
> Paid via their online payment service (DHL). Haven't received any email confirmations or an update on the track yet though, it has been around 40mins.


Don't worry they will get it to you when they are good and ready. They will deliver whether you paid or not. It's just auto tracking I think....and no , dont expect them to tell you or the driver! He may try and collect..!
Another thing in UK, no such thing as 3 days, 1.5 days to get to UK and another 2 days to process 
You will get it on Monday I think.

Good luck with it, hope you get a perfect one, if you ordered a pixel perfect. Otherwise, a good one anyway.


----------



## noname2020x

Ok, after spending 4+ hours looking into all this jazz I've decided to get a matte QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution 2. A couple of questions first.

1. I am planning on getting the Perfect Pixel model as I have read that if there is one bright pixel greensum will accept a return. Is this true?

2. If I get perfect pixel I expect a small amount of screen bleeding, but if there is a large amount will greensum take a return?

3. I am also planning on getting a square trade warranty for it, but cannot find a "monitor" section. Would it just be under the TV Warranty section?

4. My brother also wants one, but he does not have a video card, he only has a 3570k CPU on a GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD3H mobo. Will the monitor work off of that mobo? If not, will this one or this one (and is this 27" a better deal for my bro who wont be OCing) work?


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> ok so update on this BLB. i tried loosening the bottom corner screws and don't think it made it any better. then i noticed there's a small gap between the bezel and the screen, and when i apply some pressure, it seems to make the BLB go away.
> 
> so knowing this, what's the next step? taking this thing apart?


See here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3590#post_20268846

Detailed instructions.


----------



## AntiStupid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> bump


check out the videos on the OP, there are 4 screws along the bottom of the monitor. Loosen those and use a flathead screwdrivew to gently pop the trim panel off. I was able to get mine off by hand after the first clip was freed. Once you get it open, plug it back in and see if there is any BLB. if there is, you may need to adjust some of the screws on the metal fram of the panel, or if you're lucky it will just be the bezel or foam rubber supports behind the panel causing the BLB.

Good luck


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noname2020x*
> 
> 4. My brother also wants one, but he does not have a video card, he only has a 3570k CPU on a GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD3H mobo. Will the monitor work off of that mobo? If not, will this one or this one (and is this 27" a better deal for my bro who wont be OCing) work?


None of those will work unless he has a real graphics card that has dual-link DVI outputs.


----------



## Azgalor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Glad you got a good one bud.. That BLB you have in the bottom looks like the type that can be removed by loosening the two middle screws in the back..


Ooooh that's right! Thanks man, I'll give it a try.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> None of those will work unless he has a real graphics card that has dual-link DVI outputs.


The 29" AOC q2963Pm will work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noname2020x*
> 
> Ok, after spending 4+ hours looking into all this jazz I've decided to get a matte QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution 2. A couple of questions first.
> 
> 1. I am planning on getting the Perfect Pixel model as I have read that if there is one bright pixel greensum will accept a return. Is this true?
> 
> 2. If I get perfect pixel I expect a small amount of screen bleeding, but if there is a large amount will greensum take a return?
> 
> 3. I am also planning on getting a square trade warranty for it, but cannot find a "monitor" section. Would it just be under the TV Warranty section?
> 
> 4. My brother also wants one, but he does not have a video card, he only has a 3570k CPU on a GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD3H mobo. Will the monitor work off of that mobo? If not, will this one or this one (and is this 27" a better deal for my bro who wont be OCing) work?


As long as the monitor's got DisplayPort, you're golden.


----------



## Willz0r

Just received my monitor yesterday! 0 dead pixels. Ordered on Monday and received on Thursday. Opened up the monitor to remove the stand. With all the videos out, it was fairly simple. Pretty stoked about this monitor









QX2710LED
Matte
Green-sum
110 hz stable OC with the stock DVI cable
$289.00 paid
There's some slight backlight bleeding on the right side and near the bottom right. I removed the two middle screws and it fixed a little of it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

awesome Willz0r.







gotta love these monitors


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Still using CRU?
> 
> I can't see why NV would clock better across the board. It's perhaps *easier* to do so not needing any third party help. Though it could turn out CRU is the superior and more reliable method (even without fine-tuning any values) especially if the answer to my above question is no.
> 
> And I think some more testing as well as more cases besides your own would be warranted before anything can be 'confirmed' either way. I have a GTX 480 I could try...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I can't seem to overclock now as well as before. I had 7970's but now I have one GTX 780.
> Before I could do 120hz now about 110hz..
> 
> Its funny everyone on here that said nvidia should be better clocker. This also confirms the GPU has just as much to do with the overclock as the screen does.


No I didn't use CRU I used Precision.

But not sure If you understood what I said I said the 7970 overclocked my monitor much better up to 120hz. But the GTX 780 is worse. about 110hz.

My point was Nvidia vs. AMD don't matter one isn't better than another. I think its more that one GPU does better than the next GPU, which also means some people think there screen is limited to 100hz-110hz but it might be there GPU is really the place that is limiting them.

But I think I will try CRU as well, maybe it will be better for some reason.


----------



## 176355

After 2 days of non-stop research and looking around I decided on the QNIX QX2710 *Matte from green-sum. I hope I'm as happy as all of you when I hook it up.


----------



## clanalex

First time post in any forum ever, I just couldn't find any info on my issue.
I got the qnix glossy back in April or May, all because of this thread, so thank you guys. Anyway, yesterday while the monitor was off I notice that air or dust bubbles stared to show on the screen. I was like "***". I can't find the reason as to how this is happening. They look like the bubbles that get trapped between a screen protector and a smartphone or tablet when the surface has lint, dust or just air.

They were NOT there before. I haven't done anything wierd to the monitor. Only thing I did was oc to 96hz.

If anyone has any experience with this, or suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clanalex*
> 
> First time post in any forum ever, I just couldn't find any info on my issue.
> I got the qnix glossy back in April or May, all because of this thread, so thank you guys. Anyway, yesterday while the monitor was off I notice that air or dust bubbles stared to show on the screen. I was like "***". I can't find the reason as to how this is happening. They look like the bubbles that get trapped between a screen protector and a smartphone or tablet when the surface has lint, dust or just air.
> 
> They were NOT there before. I haven't done anything wierd to the monitor. Only thing I did was oc to 96hz.
> 
> If anyone has any experience with this, or suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.


Pics please? Just so we can see...


----------



## noname2020x

Gotcha, So I will get the 29" for my bro and the 27" Qniz for me. Still wondering about these though:

"

1. I am planning on getting the Perfect Pixel model as I have read that if there is one bright pixel greensum will accept a return. Is this true?

2. If I get perfect pixel I expect a small amount of screen bleeding, but if there is a large amount will greensum take a return?

3. I am also planning on getting a square trade warranty for it, but cannot find a "monitor" section. Would it just be under the TV Warranty section?

"


----------



## clanalex

Double post


----------



## clanalex

Will post pics as soon as I get home


----------



## jadenx2

successfully OC'd to 96hz. tried 120hz but had a couple of scan lines pop up every now and then. i'm perfectly content with 96hz









also i've read that it's probably not a good idea to keep it OC'd 24/7, is that right?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> successfully OC'd to 96hz. tried 120hz but had a couple of scan lines pop up every now and then. i'm perfectly content with 96hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also i've read that it's probably not a good idea to keep it OC'd 24/7, is that right?


Mine is running 120hz 24/27. Have not seen any side effects thus far.


----------



## General121

By the end of this month I can almost afford a QNIX








Though i really really dont want any BLB or dead/stuck pixels so im wondering about purchasing a qnix from another member possibly, or buying one off ebay that is 100% perfect. THat or finding a good auria or something on craigslist.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> By the end of this month I can almost afford a QNIX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though i really really dont want any BLB or dead/stuck pixels so im wondering about purchasing a qnix from another member possibly, or buying one off ebay that is 100% perfect. THat or finding a good auria or something on craigslist.


Auria are horrible monitors even the sales reps my local MicroCenter told me that.. Why not get a monoprice?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Auria are horrible monitors even the sales reps my local MicroCenter told me that.. Why not get a monoprice?


Forgot about that. Maybe. But do you know if those have little or know BLB (in general)?


----------



## nicedart

Ok my Qnix 2710 EVO II came today. I have 1 bright? (can only see it on black screens) pixel. It is semi center of the screen. Absolutely no back light bleed though. If not for that one pixel the monitor would be flawless.

Bought from dream-seller. $288

Going to work on some color profiles and see if I can get 120Hz now.


----------



## noname2020x

So seeing as there is only a $30 difference between PP and non-PP from greensum, I think I will go with PP. Simply because 1 bright pixel will drive me absolutely crazy. I wouldn't care at all about dark ones. My question now is, can I wait a week or two after the monitor is shipped to buy Square trade protection for it? I know there is an option on the item page on ebay, but on squaretrade itself there is no monitor section. Thoughts? Is SQ worth $50? Seems like a a lot for a $300 investment.

Thanks!

So close to pulling the triggerrr


----------



## pLuhhmm

Just ordered the Pixel Perfect QNIX QX2710 Matte for $309 from Green-Sum!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11


----------



## doco

got my qnix today. bought it for $309 from hulustar (not perfect pixel). i can overclock to 96hz and 120hz easily stock cable. there are some minor concerns i have though. i can see some parts of the right side of the monitor getting darker when i increase the refresh rate above 80hz. it's _slightly_ noticeable at 96hz. at 120hz... well it's pretty noticeable enough during bright scenes. also at 120hz there is some slight banding occuring but not noticeable enough unless i stare REALLY hard at the screen. any fixes or ICC profiles to fix any of the issues i mentioned?

aside from those my monitor has no issues with pixels. there is some BLB on the top and bottom. i'm sure some of it will go away whenever i get around to buying a vesa desk mount. that way i can unscrew the stock stand and fix some of the BLB issue at the same time. killing two birds with one stone.

overall great purchase. i'll keep it at 96hz for the time being. some of the darkness and banding issues on the right side of the monitor is way too obvious not to ignore it at 120hz. it would irritate me to no end in whatever i choose to do. unless someone knows an ICC profile for that issue maybe









edit: i've tried all the ICC profile on the front page and from NCX.


----------



## jadenx2

yeah 96hz seems to be the sweet spot imo. im using MenacingTuba's ICC profile for 96hz, it's pretty solid.


----------



## Zero4549

I seem to have trouble getting about half of my games to accept higher than 60hz. I have the catleap inf installed.

Guild Wars 2, Supreme Commander 1, and Saints Row 3, no problem.
Supreme Commander 2, Planetside 2, Tribes Ascend - nope, still locked at 60 with or without vsync.

Halpz?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I seem to have trouble getting about half of my games to accept higher than 60hz. I have the catleap inf installed.
> 
> Guild Wars 2, Supreme Commander 1, and Saints Row 3, no problem.
> Supreme Commander 2, Planetside 2, Tribes Ascend - nope, still locked at 60 with or without vsync.
> 
> Halpz?


Did you overclock through Nvidia control panel or through the ToastyX method?

Follow this post and everything will always be 120Hz - http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3680#post_20289279


----------



## Zero4549

Nvidia control panel + catleap inf.

Doesn't the other method have issues with driver updates and stuff?

Also, doesn't it require you to run out of test mode constantly?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> got my qnix today. bought it for $309 from hulustar (not perfect pixel). i can overclock to 96hz and 120hz easily stock cable. there are some minor concerns i have though. i can see some parts of the right side of the monitor getting darker when i increase the refresh rate above 80hz. it's _slightly_ noticeable at 96hz. at 120hz... well it's pretty noticeable enough during bright scenes. also at 120hz there is some slight banding occuring but not noticeable enough unless i stare REALLY hard at the screen. any fixes or ICC profiles to fix any of the issues i mentioned?
> 
> aside from those my monitor has no issues with pixels. there is some BLB on the top and bottom. i'm sure some of it will go away whenever i get around to buying a vesa desk mount. that way i can unscrew the stock stand and fix some of the BLB issue at the same time. killing two birds with one stone.
> 
> overall great purchase. i'll keep it at 96hz for the time being. some of the darkness and banding issues on the right side of the monitor is way too obvious not to ignore it at 120hz. it would irritate me to no end in whatever i choose to do. unless someone knows an ICC profile for that issue maybe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: i've tried all the ICC profile on the front page and from NCX.


Try the ICC profiles from here bud..

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html


----------



## wntrsnowg

So i've been looking for a suitable monitor stand replacement for this and have seen the suggested gateway one (link here) that goes for $30. It may have the height adjustment, tilt, swivel, and rotation but it looks so damn plain and boring.

So i searched for a better one, and found it. It is an OEM HP monitor stand for a 22" they sell. Found it on ebay (link here) for $22 shipped. It had some weird hp connector plate on there, but once you simply unscrew the HP connector plates, a 100mm vesa mounting plate is revealed. I then used the screws I just took off, and a washer for each screw to mount the monitor. It is sturdy as hell, and has height adjustment, screen rotation, tilt, and swivel. At the tallest height extension, the monitor has enough clearance for screen rotation to portrait.

*Bottom line: Looks great, no visible HP branding on it, tilt, swivel, rotation, height adjustments, and only $22 shipped.*

Here are some pics.

Lowest height setting (there is a locking mechanism at the lowest height, feels very sturdy To release it, press button on back of stand.)


Tallest height


A little cable organizer pass-through thing. Works great for a keyboard wire.


Side profile, lowest height.


Tallest height, and maximum tilt and swivel.


Edit: Monitor rotation at the tallest height setting.


----------



## Zero4549

Looks nice. Certainly better than those ugly and expensive ergotron and 3m ones. Haven't seen the gateway though.

I personally would like a taller one, but I guess I'm better off just putting a book under the stand or something, because realistically they don't get taller without getting an articulated ergotron arm or wall mount.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> yeah 96hz seems to be the sweet spot imo. im using MenacingTuba's ICC profile for 96hz, it's pretty solid.


i tried that profile but it was a bit dark for me even at max brightness. in the end i went with manju's 96hz glossy icc profile. he probably had the same glossy panel batch as me.

edit: now i'm using this 96hz profile from NCX from browsing through the pages about this monitor on hardforum
https://rapidshare.com/#!download|689p1|3236343615|Qnix96hz16BitLut.icm|96|0|0|1|referer-3341857B9445894E9FF5301434D39FAA
definitely a great ICC profile. i use it at max brightness.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Try the ICC profiles from here bud..
> 
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html


i did. that's why i edited my post a few mins after i posted. unless people read NCX as something else. and i do follow him on hardforum as well. he's the first guy i go to see if he has reviewed it.


----------



## UNOE

I think I remember hearing there was a driver to help get resolutions working in games. I have a problem with first blackops it only see's one of my custom resolutions not sure why really.

Edit : where can I find that catleap monitor driver.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I think I remember hearing there was a driver to help get resolutions working in games. I have a problem with first blackops it only see's one of my custom resolutions not sure why really.
> 
> Edit : where can I find that catleap monitor driver.


That catleap inf is the driver you're talking about. I don't remember where it originally comes from but this is the one I downloaded from the official catleap OC thread.

catleap.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## miket5au

Here is my QNix. I have it on a monitor arm and have not removed the stand.

I haven't found any dead or stuck pixels and the back light bleed is minimal.


----------



## noname2020x

Got impatient and pulled the trigger on a QNIX 27" for $289 from Greensum w/o warranty. *crosses fingers*


----------



## bmancreations

For awhile now I have been seeing thing cloud like thing pop up over text when typing in a text box (like on a forum).

It goes away after submitting the reply. I have no idea what it is, so I thought I'd start with it being the Monitor, anyone else see this before?

http://i.imgur.com/Wg2s1Vs.jpg


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

Hey guys, bought a pixel perfect matte qx2710 from green-sum. The monior oc'ed to 120hz with no noticeable defects but when i compare it to my shimian the image quality just is'nt as good. Wondering if anyone with experience with a glossy and matte qx2710 could tell me if the glossy is clearer or worth getting to replace my current matte?


----------



## dilloway

Holly crap! Just got an X-Star DP2710. No dead pixels, hardly any BLB. 120Hz OC appears stable. I'm so freaking stoked







.

I'll post pictures and add myself to the PLS club in a bit.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoHnYBLaZe*
> 
> Hey guys, bought a pixel perfect matte qx2710 from green-sum. The monior oc'ed to 120hz with no noticeable defects but when i compare it to my shimian the image quality just is'nt as good. Wondering if anyone with experience with a glossy and matte qx2710 could tell me if the glossy is clearer or worth getting to replace my current matte?


From the FAQ:
Quote:


> Q: Should I buy a matte or glossy monitor?
> A: Glossy is superior for image clarity (clarity = sharpness of image. not 'quality' or 'color' of image). The matte coating on these monitors is semi-glossy, not a thick matte coating so it isn't as obtrusive as traditional matte coating. So, choosing Matte or glossy comes down to if you will be bothered by reflections. If there is a potential for daylight or electrical light reflection, do not get glossy.


It seems expected that the matte QX2710 would appear to have less image clarity. The upside is the reduced reflections, which is what convinced me to stick with matte.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> It seems expected that the matte QX2710 would appear to have less image clarity. The upside is the reduced reflections, which is what convinced me to stick with matte.


Trust me, I've gone from glossy to matte and matte is a hundred times better.


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

Thanks for the response dilloway. Your right, one would expect more clarity from the glossy version, but I guess what I want to know is how much more? To my eyes, it looks flatter and fuzzier than my shimian. I've read here on ocn where many people prefer their matte qnix to their shimian or catleap, hence my purchase. I like the contrast and brightness more on the qnix just not the "flatness". I have 2 options: get a glossy qnix or put a oc pcb in my shimian. I use my system for gaming and media and it only looks as good as the monitor allows it to.


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

Moragg.....did you mean matte is better cause of the reflections? I dont have a problem with reflections where Im at. Did the images not seem to pop a little more on glossy as compared to the matte?


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Trust me, I've gone from glossy to matte and matte is a hundred times better.


No argument there, I don't think I will ever become a glossy convert. Something about putting additional material between the panel and my view seems off to me; it feels like cheating. I want to see pure panel. I'm not sure if that makes any sense, haha.


----------



## dilloway

Joining the PLS Monitor Club!

Verification:


Stable 120Hz OC running XBMC w/ Fraps test. How freaking awesome is that?!


I was put off by some of the bad ebay experiences so I ordered from a site instead, even called them to make sure they were legit, lol! I couldn't be happier with my monitor right now. Time to get 2nd one...


----------



## wntrsnowg

welcome dilloway! remember to signup using the application form in the OP!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Nice. What site?


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Nice. What site?


Not sure if I post links to other sites (will delete, sorry), I got it from ipsledmonitors.com. i was really concerned with getting stuck pixels. I called their number and they said I could return it within 30days and they would pay to ship it back in the US. I figured I couldn't lose and said "what the heck", so I pulled the trigger. Overall I'm super happy with this monitor.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> Not sure if I post links to other sites (will delete, sorry), I got it from ipsledmonitors.com. i was really concerned with getting stuck pixels. I called their number and they said I could return it within 30days and they would pay to ship it back in the US. I figured I couldn't lose and said "what the heck", so I pulled the trigger. Overall I'm super happy with this monitor.


Thank you for sharing that.. There are a lot of people who want one but are scared of dealing with Korea. This will help them out..









How much was shipping?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoHnYBLaZe*
> 
> Moragg.....did you mean matte is better cause of the reflections? I dont have a problem with reflections where Im at. Did the images not seem to pop a little more on glossy as compared to the matte?


It may pop more with glossy, but at least with matte I can actually see the image.

WIth my old glossy I had to shut all lights and curtains and doors to get rid of most of the reflections. Unless you have a very dark room reflections will always be a problem imo.

Not to mention, calibration targets are about 120cd/m2 whereas these monitors ship at about 300. You'll lose lots of the pop even on a glossy when you turn the brightness down that much.

As a side note: had a look at my old 1080p, cannot believe how small it is







and that I ever worked with so little real estate.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> Not sure if I post links to other sites (will delete, sorry), I got it from ipsledmonitors.com. i was really concerned with getting stuck pixels. I called their number and they said I could return it within 30days and they would pay to ship it back in the US. I figured I couldn't lose and said "what the heck", so I pulled the trigger. Overall I'm super happy with this monitor.


+1 thanks for this it is a great little site. Look at their return policy
"
No Hassle Return Policy

30-Days, Full Money Back
All products may be returned within 30 days from the date of purchase for a full refund. No restocking fees!

Return Shipping Paid at No Cost to Customer
When we say "full money back" we mean it. Customers receive paid US shipping courtesy of ipsledmonitors.com.

No Questions Asked
Items may be returned for any or no reason at all.

Quick and Easy RMA Process
Our Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) process is quick and easy.
Simply email [email protected] to get started.
"


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Thank you for sharing that.. There are a lot of people who want one but are scared of dealing with Korea. This will help them out..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much was shipping?


I think shipping was 20$ US, and they said that included shipping back.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> +1 thanks for this it is a great little site. Look at their return policy
> "
> No Hassle Return Policy
> 
> 30-Days, Full Money Back
> All products may be returned within 30 days from the date of purchase for a full refund. No restocking fees!
> 
> Return Shipping Paid at No Cost to Customer
> When we say "full money back" we mean it. Customers receive paid US shipping courtesy of ipsledmonitors.com.
> 
> No Questions Asked
> Items may be returned for any or no reason at all.
> 
> Quick and Easy RMA Process
> Our Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) process is quick and easy.
> Simply email [email protected]onitors.com to get started.
> "


This is for sure gonna make a lot more owners..


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

I believe u, reflections suck lol. My whole thing is getting the best image quality.....people spend lots of money on graphics cards just for image quality, and while this matte qnix is not bad by any stretch of the imagination, I find myself not able to sacrfice even 1% of the quality from my ips. Wish there was a way I could see a glossy one up close....oh well, gotta order that overlord pcb =)


----------



## Celidonius

Hello, I just created an account to say that this is the most beautiful monitor I have ever looked at. I bought the pixel perfect just to give me an excuse to argue with them if there were any problems with the monitor. When I got the monitor delivered, I was so scared because the package was just a bubble wrapped black and white box. Cheap plastic material and cheesy looking stand didn't help either. I set it up, turn it on, and right away was blown away by the colors. Beautiful, bright, and rich colors from left to right. I quickly checked for any dead, stuck, or bright pixels and back light issues. This monitor looks like a perfect A+ monitor, I don't get it! I just bought a perfect panel with no back light issues/dead pixels whatsoever for a little over $300, this is crazy. I highly recommend getting one of these if you are in the market for a 1440p monitor. In case anyone is interested I bought this one.


----------



## PF85

I'm really really thinking about getting the QNIX QX2710LED Evolution II from http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710LED-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni2.htm - One of the reasons for not doing it yet, is that i come from Denmark, which kinda sucks regarding tax and transport.

But, is that monitor a wise choice? I'm gaming BF3, Dota and WoW atm. Coming from a old SyncMaster 2693HM, would I be happy with that one?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Celidonius*
> 
> Hello, I just created an account to say that this is the most beautiful monitor I have ever looked at. I bought the pixel perfect just to give me an excuse to argue with them if there were any problems with the monitor. When I got the monitor delivered, I was so scared because the package was just a bubble wrapped black and white box. Cheap plastic material and cheesy looking stand didn't help either. I set it up, turn it on, and right away was blown away by the colors. Beautiful, bright, and rich colors from left to right. I quickly checked for any dead, stuck, or bright pixels and back light issues. This monitor looks like a perfect A+ monitor, I don't get it! I just bought a perfect panel with no back light issues/dead pixels whatsoever for a little over $300, this is crazy. I highly recommend getting one of these if you are in the market for a 1440p monitor. In case anyone is interested I bought this one.


Glad it worked out for you







. Have you and are you going to try overclocking?


----------



## PF85

Also I'm in doubt if it should be the glossy or the matte one? My office is pretty dark, and I can block out the sun as well. I like "pop out" colors, but I've never owned a glossy screen.
What do you think?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PF85*
> 
> Also I'm in doubt if it should be the glossy or the matte one? My office is pretty dark, and I can block out the sun as well. I like "pop out" colors, but I've never owned a glossy screen.
> What do you think?


I think glossy sucks ass.

It shows dust and dirt a lot easier and just seems annoying.

The matte coating on these Qnix's is so light that there is no perceptible degradation in color quality.


----------



## PF85

Thanks. I'm going for a matte one then, if it comes down to ordering one. But it seems alot more hassle-free, if I order from that US site, right?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PF85*
> 
> Thanks. I'm going for a matte one then, if it comes down to ordering one. But it seems alot more hassle-free, if I order from that US site, right?


I dunno man, I haven't used that site personally so I can't speak to it.

I can say that I suffered zero hassles going the ebay route.

Not to mention the fact that for the price the US site is selling for, you could buy one from ebay and get a 3 year square trade warranty with it.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PF85*
> 
> Thanks. I'm going for a matte one then, if it comes down to ordering one. But it seems alot more hassle-free, if I order from that US site, right?


I would only use that site if you were in the US. Other than that you should go ebay route..


----------



## PF85

Great. Thanks the those tips :>
Which seller would you use then? And should I what do you mean by 3 year square trade warranty?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PF85*
> 
> Great. Thanks the those tips :>
> Which seller would you use then? And should I what do you mean by 3 year square trade warranty?


I'd probably go with green-sum.

For the warranty, if you want it, it's probably not necessary - I just did it for peace of mind. http://www.squaretrade.com/tv-warranty - select the drop down for the price range of the monitor and it's pretty self-explanatory.


----------



## PF85

Have there been alot of problems with the Qnix?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PF85*
> 
> Have there been alot of problems with the Qnix?


Um...like what?

Nothing more than any other monitor that you can buy.

Occasional dead pixel, small amount of backlight bleed...some people don't get any dead pixels or bleed...


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Hi guys, just ordered a *Perfect Pixel* New QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution from green sum on ebay. Im based in the uk and asked for it to be marked as a gift and at a lower price, lets hope it arrives and its all ok and i'm not hit with a customs bill! Fingers crossed







Will let you all know what happens as im sure there are alot of people in the uk wanting to know this!


----------



## PF85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Um...like what?
> 
> Nothing more than any other monitor that you can buy.
> 
> Occasional dead pixel, small amount of backlight bleed...some people don't get any dead pixels or bleed...


Thats good to hear. Thanks alot for your help guys. I'm gonna order one


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> No argument there, I don't think I will ever become a glossy convert. Something about putting additional material between the panel and my view seems off to me; it feels like cheating. I want to see pure panel. I'm not sure if that makes any sense, haha.


I thought it was the matte ones that had the 'additional material'?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoHnYBLaZe*
> 
> I believe u, reflections suck lol. My whole thing is getting the best image quality.....people spend lots of money on graphics cards just for image quality, and while this matte qnix is not bad by any stretch of the imagination, I find myself not able to sacrfice even 1% of the quality from my ips. Wish there was a way I could see a glossy one up close....oh well, gotta order that overlord pcb =)


As far as glossy goes it'll be very similar to an apple ipad/iphone.

I personally find this whole "image quality" thing slightly overdone - I went from a 6 bit+FRC TN panel to 8 bit PLS and I don't see a massive difference.

If you really want the "pop" just turn image brightness to max - but now that I've used the lower setting I find it much easier on the eyes and the colours feel more natural.

With the new semi-matte coatings I don't think there is much difference anymore. WIth the older aggressive AG it's a different matter, but here it isn't. The quality you speak of is more to do with the amount of detail rendered - with matte you will see just as much detail, and have no reflections getting in the way. If you have even a few reflections now, matte will get you more out of your graphics cards than glossy.


----------



## PF85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> As far as glossy goes it'll be very similar to an apple ipad/iphone.
> 
> I personally find this whole "image quality" thing slightly overdone - I went from a 6 bit+FRC TN panel to 8 bit PLS and I don't see a massive difference.
> 
> If you really want the "pop" just turn image brightness to max - but now that I've used the lower setting I find it much easier on the eyes and the colours feel more natural.
> 
> With the new semi-matte coatings I don't think there is much difference anymore. WIth the older aggressive AG it's a different matter, but here it isn't. The quality you speak of is more to do with the amount of detail rendered - with matte you will see just as much detail, and have no reflections getting in the way. If you have even a few reflections now, matte will get you more out of your graphics cards than glossy.


So you dont think its worth buying one of those monitors?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PF85*
> 
> So you dont think its worth buying one of those monitors?


Here's the thing: I don't feel IQ has improved dramatically. In a side by side test between an IPS/PLS and good TN panel I might be able to see the difference - but apart I don't think it's really that noticeable.

The main improvements are resolution (1080p seems small now) and the PLS viewing angles - at this size you'd get colour shift near the edges if the panel were TN (I think).
My old panel was glossy, so this semi-matte coating is really nice.

These improvements are worth every penny. I love my X-Star and I would encourage anyone else sitting on the fence to by one.


----------



## UNOE

*I finally figured it out !!!*

I spent a long time on this so I hope this helps someone else with Nvidia that doesn't want to use test mode.

I really had a hard time getting games to detect resolution. Some games would work some would not. I figured out some games look to windows resolutions via a CRU method, but while some other games can see custom resolutions in nvidia control panel. As many of you know already you can OC these monitors with EVGA precision software without test mode enabled. What I found is precision unlocks the pixel clock on the driver side without test mode. However the problem is some games won't use a resolution from nvidia control panel. But if you use CRU the resolutions won't work unless you patch driver and use test mode.

So the solution is simple. You just have to create the same resolution in both nvidia control panel (created and unlocked with precision) and with CRU with the exact same values to the tee.

Soon as I made the resolutions with same exact timings using the values from Nvidia control panel (setting it to manual timings in Nvidia Control Panel) and coping them all over manually to CRU number by number. Closed CRU then restarted. Magically the games that could not detect resolution before now do.

(note some of you might now really have issues with games you play but I found a small few games that wouldn't work without test mode and CRU enabled, but now with this fix it solves those issues without test mode)


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> *I finally figured it out !!!*
> 
> I spent a long time on this so I hope this helps someone else with Nvidia that doesn't want to use test mode.


^How come you didn't wanna use test mode?

There is a program to remove the 'test mode' watermark if that was what you didn't like...


----------



## PF85

The thing is, my monitor is kinda old. Its as I said, a SyncMaster 2693HM. But I still cant decide, if its worth the money to upgrade a monitor, that works 100%.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PF85*
> 
> The thing is, my monitor is kinda old. Its as I said, a SyncMaster 2693HM. But I still cant decide, if its worth the money to upgrade a monitor, that works 100%.


IMO it would be. The resolution would go up, but more importantly, you're going to be going to PLS/IPS tech. I've transitioned over to all IPS/PLS for every single one of my monitors, and whenever I'm forced to use a TN monitor, I want to shoot myself 'cause they never look right. Colour shifting, colour inversion, ugh. Pisses me off every time.

And, not only that, you'll have 2 monitors! Think of the extra "productivity" you could have! I mean, watching a movie while doing work... it'll be twice as efficient!


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> ^How come you didn't wanna use test mode?
> 
> There is a program to remove the 'test mode' watermark if that was what you didn't like...


Bluray and other video software DRM checks for drivers don't like test mode.

Edit I take that back they don't like patched drivers. You could run test mode all day long. But can't run patched drivers and whole reason you have to use test mode is because of patched drivers.


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

It may be slightly overdone and im being just extremely picky and O.C.D. but my situation is this: I have my monitor on a monitor arm about two feet away me and Im laid back while Im using it. Don't like back or neck strain lol. The ips, for me, just has better quality. I don't know if this is because of the matte coating on the qnix or just a PLS thing in general. I'd like to know from anyone who has seen both matte and glossy, if they would care to share.


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

Kevinsbane, I've been stalking O.C.N from the shadows for a while lol, I saw an old post you made about your glossy qnix and a catleap 2b you had compared. You said you preferred the qnix to the catleap if I remember correctly. How do they compare?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoHnYBLaZe*
> 
> Kevinsbane, I've been stalking O.C.N from the shadows for a while lol, I saw an old post you made about your glossy qnix and a catleap 2b you had compared. You said you preferred the qnix to the catleap if I remember correctly. How do they compare?


Err...

Catleap 2B:
Better stand (but that's 'cause I got it mounted on a Ergotron MX arm)
Tempered glass makes it look slick, very slick.
Slight yellow tint.
Overclocks to about 115hz
Minor light bleed, top right and bottom left sides
contrast at about 750-850 (varies)
Uniformity on whites is good
uniformity on blacks is ok
buzzes at high overclocks + white colours on screen

Qnix:
Crappy stand - worse than the Catleap standard (which is crap)
Wish i got the matte lol
significant red shift
overclocks easily to 120hz
no light bleed
contrast varies from 900-1050
uniformity on whites is ok; overclocked, the right side darks noticeably
uniformity on blacks is very good

Both are calibrated with an i1d2 (not ideal, but it's what I got). The Qnix is harder to calibrate, and it doesn't calibrate as well as the Catleap. Comparing them to the U2312hm I have sitting next to them, the U2312hm has the best colour quality, both subjectively and via colorimeter.

Overall, the Qnix has the best combination of picture quality. The U2312hm is the best balanced monitor (if I *had* to choose 1 and only 1 monitor, I'd pick this one; but that's 'cause I want to use my laptop with my monitor), but in use, the Catleap has dominated, as I haven't bothered to swap stands and my desk simply can't fit 2x 27" monitors and a 23". So for now, the Qnix is unused until I find more room... If I played more games, I'd probably go with the Qnix and its overclock.


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

Thanks for the taking the time to reply....I got a perfect pixel matte with no light bleed that I could find and no pixel deformities, mine does 120 as well, wanna trade? lol


----------



## foxino

Guys please forgive me if the question was already done many times but I do not understand how to do that^^ I have a qnix and I would like to oc, i m using w7 vista 64 and gtx770 is my vcard.. I must patch the driver 320.49 or i can OC via Nvidia control panel ? So confuse








Thank you and sorry for call for help

Mirko


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> Guys please forgive me if the question was already done many times but I do not understand how to do that^^ I have a qnix and I would like to oc, i m using w7 vista 64 and gtx770 is my vcard.. I must patch the driver 320.49 or i can OC via Nvidia control panel ? So confuse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you and sorry for call for help
> 
> Mirko


I have a AMD card so i could be wrong..But i think you can do like 96hz without patching a nvidia card..Anything over and you will need to patch drivers..Did you use CRU yet?


----------



## foxino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I have a AMD card so i could be wrong..But i think you can do like 96hz without patching a nvidia card..Anything over and you will need to patch drivers..Did you use CRU yet?


no just nvidia pannel..
96 is enough. so no patch for hit 96..
i ll try^^

very thx
mirko


----------



## eliongater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> So i've been looking for a suitable monitor stand replacement for this and have seen the suggested gateway one (link here) that goes for $30. It may have the height adjustment, tilt, swivel, and rotation but it looks so damn plain and boring.
> 
> So i searched for a better one, and found it. It is an OEM HP monitor stand for a 22" they sell. Found it on ebay (link here) for $22 shipped. It had some weird hp connector plate on there, but once you simply unscrew the HP connector plates, a 100mm vesa mounting plate is revealed. I then used the screws I just took off, and a washer for each screw to mount the monitor. It is sturdy as hell, and has height adjustment, screen rotation, tilt, and swivel. At the tallest height extension, the monitor has enough clearance for screen rotation to portrait. Plus it looks great and was only $22 shipped.
> 
> Here are some pics.
> 
> 
> Lowest height setting
> 
> 
> Tallest height
> 
> 
> A little cable organizer pass-through thing. Works great for a keyboard wire.
> 
> 
> Side profile, lowest height.
> 
> 
> Tallest height, and maximum tilt and swivel.


Could you please post a pic if it in portrait? Sorry if you already have, I'm using my phone


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> no just nvidia pannel..
> 96 is enough. so no patch for hit 96..
> i ll try^^
> 
> very thx
> mirko


I just posted yesterday how to get all your profiles up too 120hz with nvidia without patch drives and without test mode. It got skipped over, I don't think most people saw it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eliongater*
> 
> Could you please post a pic if it in portrait? Sorry if you already have, I'm using my phone


Here you go. at the tallest height setting


Another nice thing about it, there is no visible HP branding on it anywhere.


----------



## shatterstar

just brought 3 Qnix 2710 lucked out by getting no screen defects (as far as I can tell.)

Silly Question....
Are there any remote control's to turn the monitor on/off that work with this?


----------



## eliongater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Here you go. at the tallest height setting
> 
> 
> Another nice thing about it, there is no visible HP branding on it anywhere.


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shatterstar*
> 
> just brought 3 Qnix 2710 lucked out by getting no screen defects (as far as I can tell.)
> 
> Silly Question....
> Are there any remote control's to turn the monitor on/off that work with this?


I don't think so. I doubt these have infrared or any thing else, they have very basic electronics


----------



## lowmotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shatterstar*
> 
> just brought 3 Qnix 2710 lucked out by getting no screen defects (as far as I can tell.)
> 
> Silly Question....
> Are there any remote control's to turn the monitor on/off that work with this?


I bought 3 and none of them is perfect. Most of the users show their LCD with new desktop background pics. Because without it you will see the screen lacks of uniformity.

Darth Vader is one of the remote controls that can handle this qnix


----------



## jadenx2

alright so i opened it up, used some tape around the metal frame after i tried to straighten it out as best i could. put it back together and most of the BLB is gone, only minimal blb that doesn't bother me much.

overall i'm very satisfied. it's a great monitor


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> Joining the PLS Monitor Club!
> 
> Verification:
> 
> 
> Stable 120Hz OC running XBMC w/ Fraps test. How freaking awesome is that?!
> 
> 
> I was put off by some of the bad ebay experiences so I ordered from a site instead, even called them to make sure they were legit, lol! I couldn't be happier with my monitor right now. Time to get 2nd one...


Just curious, what is this XBMC + fraps test?


----------



## Azgalor

So now that I have this great monitor, it's time to build a new PC gaming rig to enter the world of Ultra HD gaming. Now I'm doing my video card research and seems all the rage is between either the HD 7970 GHZ edition or the GTX 770. SLI/Xfire, The Titan, 7990 and GTX690 are all out of my budget for now so I wanted to ask you guys this:

Will I be able to (for the most part) pull off at least 120 FPS in most games to be able to take advantage of this monitor at 2560x1440 @ 120 hz? I am looking to achieve either High or Ultra settings on almost all games but I can live with AA off. With that said, will this be possible on just one of these cards?

Thanks for any input.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azgalor*
> 
> So now that I have this great monitor, it's time to build a new PC gaming rig to enter the world of Ultra HD gaming. Now I'm doing my video card research and seems all the rage is between either the HD 7970 GHZ edition or the GTX 770. SLI/Xfire, The Titan, 7990 and GTX690 are all out of my budget for now so I wanted to ask you guys this:
> 
> Will I be able to (for the most part) pull off at least 120 FPS in most games to be able to take advantage of this monitor at 2560x1440 @ 120 hz? I am looking to achieve either High or Ultra settings on almost all games but I can live with AA off. With that said, will this be possible on just one of these cards?
> 
> Thanks for any input.


I have 2 GTX570s in SLI and i can pull 120FPS in many games. There are definitely those out there that will bring my 570s to their knees. This is mainly due to the limited VRAM for 1440p. With a 770 or a 7970 you remove that bottleneck and i think you would definitely be able to run 120fps in even more games than me. There will always be a few that you will have trouble with such as Crysis, skyrim and a few others. With a new build you can take advantage of SSDs and the newer generation of CPUs you should be fine with any combination of those cards with most games (unless you go crazy with Aliasing options).

Best thing to do would be to take a look at some professional reviews for those cards. Most of them are using up to date equipment paired with a multitude of cards and give 1440p/1600p results.

At any rate i am in the same boat and am dying to build a new machine but i am waiting for AMD compatible MoBos to get pcie 3.0


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azgalor*
> 
> So now that I have this great monitor, it's time to build a new PC gaming rig to enter the world of Ultra HD gaming. Now I'm doing my video card research and seems all the rage is between either the HD 7970 GHZ edition or the GTX 770. SLI/Xfire, The Titan, 7990 and GTX690 are all out of my budget for now so I wanted to ask you guys this:
> 
> Will I be able to (for the most part) pull off at least 120 FPS in most games to be able to take advantage of this monitor at 2560x1440 @ 120 hz? I am looking to achieve either High or Ultra settings on almost all games but I can live with AA off. With that said, will this be possible on just one of these cards?
> 
> Thanks for any input.


If you can do 770 SLI that probably the best don't bother with the Titan just get a 780. I'm very happy with just one 780 OC to 1200Mhz. I before had three 7970's but this is much better for my needs much smoother even though less FPS.

The 7970's needed two crossfire bridges I tried one crossfire bridge and it was more Microstutter. And three 7970's at 1440p with 120hz were worse than 2 7970's with two bridges at 1440p and 120hz because of the crossfire bandwidth limit. So now with one 780 I'm getting about 70% of the FPS of two 7970's and about 55% of the FPS of three 7970's and its still looks better in most games. Its easier to overclock monitor with nvidia without test mode as well. So keep all those things in mind.

The new AMD drivers might fix some of those problems with stutter. But I held my breath for a fix for about 18 months and couldn't wait any longer. I was debating still waiting for the fix until I found that the crossfire bridge was limited. Once I found that out I knew I had to at less sell one 7970 and use only two or get something else. I'm very happy now though and already been gaming more than before less hassle with one card. And less driver tweaking with nvidia.


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

In my humblest opinion azgalor, I would start out with one 770 or 7970 and see how you feel. For me I find that 2560x1440 looks amazing without running everything on ultra. I have one 680 right now, I could upgrade to anything I want, but when I run games on ultra even though I may get 15 fps I don't SEE a difference worth $400 or more. U can then pick up the second card at your discretion....


----------



## David164v8

Hey, anyone know if these monitors will still have the same overclocking ability and price in around a month and a 1/2? I won't be able to buy one until then and I'm worried that the price could go up like the catleap 2B's did when people heard it could overclock. I also heard that they could change some circuit board and remove the overclocking too.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Hey, anyone know if these monitors will still have the same overclocking ability and price in around a month and a 1/2? I won't be able to buy one until then and I'm worried that the price could go up like the catleap 2B's did when people heard it could overclock. I also heard that they could change some circuit board and remove the overclocking too.


I got mine in April and the price has only gone down since then..


----------



## monkeys

1st july and After 2 weeks testing, I feel that I can give a report on my 2nd Qnix matt: From green sum PP, Pixel perfect with a bit of bleed, fixed it, better than my last one which had quite a bent bezel (already fixed, great screen) the frame was just v slightly off , no bleed now and I would say a perfect monitor.

......pls stop me from collecting monitors.

.......am ready for a higher resolution larger one with the same technology ....as they are currently not backlight.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Hey, anyone know if these monitors will still have the same overclocking ability and price in around a month and a 1/2? I won't be able to buy one until then and I'm worried that the price could go up like the catleap 2B's did when people heard it could overclock. I also heard that they could change some circuit board and remove the overclocking too.


I'm not sure the price will change at all since there is only 1 PCB being made for these - it'd be inefficient to design another and switch production to it.

Also, the sellers know these OC as they clearly monitor the forums, but they actually get more revenue by keeping the prices down and supply more. And since these are the only monitors that use PLS panels we shouldn't have to worry.

Unless the switch production to the new Qnix's, in which case prices for these could potentially skyrocket. Unlikely though, the sellers would lose a lot of potential money if the did this.


----------



## rubixcube101

Hey guys my monitor arrived today. Looks like i got one dead pixel at the very top right hand corner near the minimize button. Its actually a dark dot but no biggy. You generally have to search to find it. Haven't really tested the BLB yet. I was wondering whether the pin that comes in the stand pulls out? or does it just sit in? Cheers

EDIT: LOL resolved the pin issue, didnt realise it was a screw!


----------



## rubixcube101

Also, i have one dead pixel that's bottom centre but shows a light grey sort of colour. It's only visible on a light surface, I'm wondering whether i should send it back as bigclothcraft said that if it was in the center he would take it back. IS it easy to do this? I tried to show it on the mouse pointer in the image. Appreciate the advice guys.

http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/jazzphantom/media/DSC_0467_zps59974c55.jpg.html


----------



## hodgempls

Well, my catleap has developed a bad flickering problem; it was a great monitor until this issue. Thankfully, I had the squaretrade warrranty as it will fund my new Qnix matte screen - I just pulled the trigger from green_sum (I purchased my old catleap from him as well). I am curious, does anyone know how to get a squaretrade coupon? I definitely will want to purchase another warranty for the Qnix.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubixcube101*
> 
> Also, i have one dead pixel that's bottom centre but shows a light grey sort of colour. It's only visible on a light surface, I'm wondering whether i should send it back as bigclothcraft said that if it was in the center he would take it back. IS it easy to do this? I tried to show it on the mouse pointer in the image. Appreciate the advice guys.
> 
> http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/jazzphantom/media/DSC_0467_zps59974c55.jpg.html


I would contact the ebay seller ASAP if you're even considering returning the monitor. I've seen recently people posting lengthy youtube videos in order to "prove" their monitor had dead pixels to the sellers. I'm not saying bigclothcraft will do that, but the longer you wait the more difficult it will be to return.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I don't even see it. Is it in the cursor? Unless you're OCD I wouldn't go through the hassle of returning it for such. But that's me...


----------



## rubixcube101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> I would contact the ebay seller ASAP if you're even considering returning the monitor. I've seen recently people posting lengthy youtube videos in order to "prove" their monitor had dead pixels to the sellers. I'm not saying bigclothcraft will do that, but the longer you wait the more difficult it will be to return.


Mmm i might have too. Its not bugging me too much though, just unfortunate. Was looking to take it on a trip with some friends for the week but will have to just end up returning it if i can.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubixcube101*
> 
> Also, i have one dead pixel that's bottom centre but shows a light grey sort of colour. It's only visible on a light surface, I'm wondering whether i should send it back as bigclothcraft said that if it was in the center he would take it back. IS it easy to do this? I tried to show it on the mouse pointer in the image. Appreciate the advice guys.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/jazzphantom/media/DSC_0467_zps59974c55.jpg.html


I must be blind, can't see it :S

Anyway, centre means if you split the screen into 9, it isn't in the centre centre box. If it is in the centre bottom box that is not good enough sadly. And that's only with pixel perfect.


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoHnYBLaZe*
> 
> In my humblest opinion azgalor, I would start out with one 770 or 7970 and see how you feel. For me I find that 2560x1440 looks amazing without running everything on ultra. I have one 680 right now, I could upgrade to anything I want, but when I run games on ultra even though I may get 15 fps I don't SEE a difference worth $400 or more. U can then pick up the second card at your discretion....


I will be running on a single gtx 660 2gb till I upgrade my z68 which doesn't support sli!!! So annoyed







then again 660 sli is about 20-30% better than a 770. 680 being the 770







http://lanoc.org/review/video-cards/5953-nvidia-gtx-660-sli-performance?showall=1


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubixcube101*
> 
> Also, i have one dead pixel that's bottom centre but shows a light grey sort of colour. It's only visible on a light surface, I'm wondering whether i should send it back as bigclothcraft said that if it was in the center he would take it back. IS it easy to do this? I tried to show it on the mouse pointer in the image. Appreciate the advice guys.
> 
> http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/jazzphantom/media/DSC_0467_zps59974c55.jpg.html


Personally I wouldn't bother, unless the seller covers the postage costs, that's extremely small! Is it even noticeable when gaming? If I were you, I would try to get a partial refund from seller as compensation for him breaking his terms


----------



## monistor

i have problem in my monitor when i am start my computer up the screen still black until the lock screen of windows 8

so i want to see the start screen of computer and the other option that's come before windows start


----------



## Turok




----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakebeefcake*
> 
> I will be running on a single gtx 660 2gb till I upgrade my z68 which doesn't support sli!!! So annoyed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then again 660 sli is about 20-30% better than a 770. 680 being the 770
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://lanoc.org/review/video-cards/5953-nvidia-gtx-660-sli-performance?showall=1


GO FOR IT!!! Don't be fooled into thinking you need 2 titans or you wont even be able to load a certain game.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hodgempls*
> 
> Well, my catleap has developed a bad flickering problem; it was a great monitor until this issue. Thankfully, I had the squaretrade warrranty as it will fund my new Qnix matte screen - I just pulled the trigger from green_sum (I purchased my old catleap from him as well). I am curious, does anyone know how to get a squaretrade coupon? I definitely will want to purchase another warranty for the Qnix.


I'm not sure how to get SquareTrade coupons...maybe cross your fingers and try slickdeals.net? There is a thread over there where people post codes sometimes...

By the way, how easy was it to get SquareTrade to give you the refund for your Catleap? Did you just tell them your monitor is flickering really badly? Did they make you ship it to them and then they try to fix it?

I'm wondering how it works...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Just email them and ask for one.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> i have problem in my monitor when i am start my computer up the screen still black until the lock screen of windows 8
> 
> so i want to see the start screen of computer and the other option that's come before windows start


I think I remember hearing that to get the bios to show up during boot will just depend on your motherboard and/or graphics card compatibility since these monitors are so basic.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I think I remember hearing that to get the bios to show up during boot will just depend on your motherboard and/or graphics card compatibility since these monitors are so basic.


I remember some Catleaps had a 30sec cold boot time.

With mine the screen turns on after a few secs, then the bios shows a few secs later. Maybe I just have a slow mobo


----------



## Heliar

Finally received my Matte QNIX earlier today. Ordered a pixel perfect from green-sum. Only paid £19 VAT + £5 handing Total price was £~225

Man this monitor is incredible. No dead/stuck pixels or BLB, just perfect. Not even comparable to my rusty old Samsung 206bw.

I was not much of a believer in the TN panel horror stories and the poor viewing angles until I had something to compare it to. The color shift on this tiny 20" monitor is apparent even when moving my head a couple of inches up or down. I can't believe I was trying to do photoshop work on my old Samsung. The colors don't even look right and the contrast is way off. Compared to the QNIX the colors are really creamy/yellow and dull. Shame there's not much I can do about that, not that I know of. Now I just need to get another one like this to replace the Samsung.

Haven't tried Overclocking it yet or calibrating, I'm sure it'll look even better once I do.

Sorry about the photographs, my camera is pretty awful in low light conditions or any conditions for that matter. That is not BLB you're seeing in the bottom image, that's a flashlight so you can actually see the name of the monitor.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I remember some Catleaps had a 30sec cold boot time.
> 
> With mine the screen turns on after a few secs, then the bios shows a few secs later. Maybe I just have a slow mobo


COuld be, could also be your hardware combo. I have a Catleap 2B and on my personal computer with a 990FX chipset board and a GTX670 I can see the bios perfectly fine and it is as you say, the screen comes on and I can see the bios a second or two later. With this monitor though I use it at work on an H67 chipset with an Nvidia GT610 GPU (I dont game at work) and it works fine but I dont have any image on the screen at all until Windows has fully booted and is ready to login. Both are Nvidia GPUs (although very different) and the drivers are the same on both. They both have only a single dual DVI input on the monitor so no real differences there. The biggest different is just that one uses a 990FX chipset and the other uses and H67 chipset. One shows the bios, the other doesnt. I dont care that much since I never need the bios accessed at work, but for some this could be a real issue. Both boards have UEFI bios too, so it isnt a difference between something like that either.

EDIT: oh, and I cant use safe mode at work as the monitor wont work unless the driver is loaded with Windows (which is why I cant see the bios in the first place). At home I do not need the driver loaded for the monitor to work, just to be able to overclock it and set other resolutions.


----------



## ChazRose

Would i be able to run one of these monitors with a single Sapphire Radeon 7870 graphics card? I would like to overclock it as well. For example how will it play battlefield 3?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChazRose*
> 
> Would i be able to run one of these monitors with a single Sapphire Radeon 7870 graphics card? I would like to overclock it as well. For example how will it play battlefield 3?


http://bit.ly/1602qyy


----------



## dasjefe

Got my Qnix today from dream-seller. Paid $308.90. No dead pixels or BLB. It was packaged exactly the same as Heliar's panel - down to the color of the tape on the screen protector. Quite pleased with mine. Stand sucks.


----------



## Azgalor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have 2 GTX570s in SLI and i can pull 120FPS in many games. There are definitely those out there that will bring my 570s to their knees. This is mainly due to the limited VRAM for 1440p. With a 770 or a 7970 you remove that bottleneck and i think you would definitely be able to run 120fps in even more games than me. There will always be a few that you will have trouble with such as Crysis, skyrim and a few others. With a new build you can take advantage of SSDs and the newer generation of CPUs you should be fine with any combination of those cards with most games (unless you go crazy with Aliasing options).
> 
> Best thing to do would be to take a look at some professional reviews for those cards. Most of them are using up to date equipment paired with a multitude of cards and give 1440p/1600p results.
> 
> At any rate i am in the same boat and am dying to build a new machine but i am waiting for AMD compatible MoBos to get pcie 3.0


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> If you can do 770 SLI that probably the best don't bother with the Titan just get a 780. I'm very happy with just one 780 OC to 1200Mhz. I before had three 7970's but this is much better for my needs much smoother even though less FPS.
> 
> The 7970's needed two crossfire bridges I tried one crossfire bridge and it was more Microstutter. And three 7970's at 1440p with 120hz were worse than 2 7970's with two bridges at 1440p and 120hz because of the crossfire bandwidth limit. So now with one 780 I'm getting about 70% of the FPS of two 7970's and about 55% of the FPS of three 7970's and its still looks better in most games. Its easier to overclock monitor with nvidia without test mode as well. So keep all those things in mind.
> 
> The new AMD drivers might fix some of those problems with stutter. But I held my breath for a fix for about 18 months and couldn't wait any longer. I was debating still waiting for the fix until I found that the crossfire bridge was limited. Once I found that out I knew I had to at less sell one 7970 and use only two or get something else. I'm very happy now though and already been gaming more than before less hassle with one card. And less driver tweaking with nvidia.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoHnYBLaZe*
> 
> In my humblest opinion azgalor, I would start out with one 770 or 7970 and see how you feel. For me I find that 2560x1440 looks amazing without running everything on ultra. I have one 680 right now, I could upgrade to anything I want, but when I run games on ultra even though I may get 15 fps I don't SEE a difference worth $400 or more. U can then pick up the second card at your discretion....


Thanks for all the valuable input guys. So after debating between the 770 and the 7970GHZ and checking out various reviews/benchmarks from Toms and Anandtech I think the smartest move I can do for now at least is go with a single 770 on a SLI compatible board and future proof it that way. A single 770 should hold me off pretty good for now and once games get even more demanding or I crave a bit more performance I can always add an additional 770 to really turn it up once I got the cash. And like previously noted above, I won't have to deal with the problems ATI has with Crossfire at the moment, according to the reviews 770 SLI is working very well in almost all games that support SLI. And another bonus is presumably easier monitor overclocking with Nvidia (which I did not know) as mentioned.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azgalor*
> 
> Thanks for all the valuable input guys. So after debating between the 770 and the 7970GHZ and checking out various reviews/benchmarks from Toms and Anandtech I think the smartest move I can do for now at least is go with a single 770 on a SLI compatible board and future proof it that way. A single 770 should hold me off pretty good for now and once games get even more demanding or I crave a bit more performance I can always add an additional 770 to really turn it up once I got the cash. And like previously noted above, I won't have to deal with the problems ATI has with Crossfire at the moment, according to the reviews 770 SLI is working very well in almost all games that support SLI. And another bonus is presumably easier monitor overclocking with Nvidia (which I did not know) as mentioned.


OCing on AMD is painless. Less than 5 minutes from reading the instructions you will be making custom refresh rates.

Crossfire problems have (afaik) been sorted in the latest beta driver, and where AMD had problems Nvidia SLi also had problems.

Make sure if you plan on keeping the 770 for a while get a 4GB version. Games are already pushing 2GB. If you go SLI later you'll need 4GB on each card.

Alternatively you could wait till HD9xxx is released later this year - but that's a while away.


----------



## Azgalor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> OCing on AMD is painless. Less than 5 minutes from reading the instructions you will be making custom refresh rates.
> 
> Crossfire problems have (afaik) been sorted in the latest beta driver, and where AMD had problems Nvidia SLi also had problems.
> 
> Make sure if you plan on keeping the 770 for a while get a 4GB version. Games are already pushing 2GB. If you go SLI later you'll need 4GB on each card.
> 
> Alternatively you could wait till HD9xxx is released later this year - but that's a while away.


Yeah I actually did notice a member on this thread said he could hit 120hz with his 7970 and just upgraded to a 770 and could only reach 110hz. I guess there's some variables involved when OCing the monitor but good to know you can get pretty good results on either card.

Yeah 4GB no doubt, seems on most benchmarks the guys are doing ok with 2GB but like you said some games are already getting really close to that ceiling and some can even pass it (Skyrim with HD texture mod, etc).


----------



## faiyez

Ugh... the current pixel clock patcher is not working with nvidia drivers 326.01. Therefore, no overclock. Can anybody here confirm if the pixel clock patcher works with the 320.49 drivers released today?


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faiyez*
> 
> Ugh... the current pixel clock patcher is not working with nvidia drivers 326.01. Therefore, no overclock. Can anybody here confirm if the pixel clock patcher works with the 320.49 drivers released today?


I just overclocked my X-star with the NVIDIA pixel clock patcher and the 320.49 drivers. Seems to work fine.


----------



## nicedart

I guess I can't complain to bad. No BLB, 120Hz. One bright pixel. I need to try and massage it out or something.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azgalor*
> 
> Yeah I actually did notice a member on this thread said he could hit 120hz with his 7970 and just upgraded to a 770 and could only reach 110hz. I guess there's some variables involved when OCing the monitor but good to know you can get pretty good results on either card.
> 
> Yeah 4GB no doubt, seems on most benchmarks the guys are doing ok with 2GB but like you said some games are already getting really close to that ceiling and some can even pass it (Skyrim with HD texture mod, etc).


yes that was me but I have a 780 now and can only do 110hz. Though I would still stay far away from AMD. I just had three of them and you need two bridges for good non stuttering games.

The post above saying its easy to overclock monitor AMD is true they are both easy though. But you can not currently overclock these monitors without test mode and patch drivers with AMD and with Nvidia you can. And that's the big difference for me. I need some apps to work that check for drive signatures and will not run in test mode. Such as powerdvd for blurays.

So just keep those things in mind. Everyone has there opinions I have owned both from these generations. And for me personally have not other option that works for me.

The extra FPS is useless if it is not smooth.


----------



## faiyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faiyez*
> 
> Ugh... the current pixel clock patcher is not working with nvidia drivers 326.01. Therefore, no overclock.


Nevermind. Patcher does work with 326.01


----------



## genidoi

About to pull the trigger on this, Whats the chance I won't be able to get 96hz+?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> About to pull the trigger on this, Whats the chance I won't be able to get 96hz+?


Like zero...

You'll get 96Hz easy...


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> About to pull the trigger on this, Whats the chance I won't be able to get 96hz+?


Very low. I haven't heard of a person not achiving at least 96hz. Mine can go to 120hz but it gets lines sometimes so 96hz is where I am good at. However there can be a first for everything.


----------



## genidoi

The trigger has been pulled







$320 for up to 2 dead pixel Qnix matte

Will post how things go


----------



## Pure2sin

Anyone have new ICC profiles that they are using?

I think the OP needs to update the ICC profiles in the opening page because some of the links are dead.

We should possibly start a page with just ICC profiles.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> About to pull the trigger on this, Whats the chance I won't be able to get 96hz+?


Go to the OP. Look for the expandable section titled "Analysis on members list form submissions" and click on it. Look for a pie graph of the user-reported overclocks. Roughly 4% have OC of less than 95 reported (if considering only those who have tried to OC)


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Anyone have new ICC profiles that they are using?
> 
> I think the OP needs to update the ICC profiles in the opening page because some of the links are dead.
> 
> We should possibly start a page with just ICC profiles.


Let me know any links that are broken, and if possible replacements. If so, I will update immediately. All it takes is a post in this thread


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heliar*
> 
> Finally received my Matte QNIX earlier today. Ordered a pixel perfect from green-sum. Only paid £19 VAT + £5 handing Total price was £~225


Verified. Thank you


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Anyone have new ICC profiles that they are using?
> 
> I think the OP needs to update the ICC profiles in the opening page because some of the links are dead.
> 
> We should possibly start a page with just ICC profiles.


I use the 96 and 120hz profiles from this page.. I use 96 even at 60hz but the 120 only at 120hz..

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016136


----------



## Sensuki

Hi guys I've been following this thread a while although I only just joined today

I bought a QNIX QX2710 Matte non-PP from dream-seller on friday last week for $289

Arrived today in the mail. Set it up and it OCs to 120Hz using CRU and LCD - reduced settings

I am using the DVI-D Cable from my Alienware AW2310 screen (haven't tried the stock cable yet) and I have an Asus HD7970 DirectCUII using the 13.4 drivers

My screen has no dead or stuck pixels, no panel play but major BLB issues at the top left and bottom left sections of the screen. I am going to have to open it up to see if I can fix it.



In this picture, where exactly do you apply the tape? I've watched a youtube video where a guy puts it around the inside of the bezel, is the black tape just around the edges besides where the PCB is at the bottom of the picture?

Thanks
Sensuki


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heliar*
> 
> Finally received my Matte QNIX earlier today. Ordered a pixel perfect from green-sum. Only paid £19 VAT + £5 handing Total price was £~225
> 
> Man this monitor is incredible. No dead/stuck pixels or BLB, just perfect. Not even comparable to my rusty old Samsung 206bw.
> 
> I was not much of a believer in the TN panel horror stories and the poor viewing angles until I had something to compare it to. The color shift on this tiny 20" monitor is apparent even when moving my head a couple of inches up or down. I can't believe I was trying to do photoshop work on my old Samsung. The colors don't even look right and the contrast is way off. Compared to the QNIX the colors are really creamy/yellow and dull. Shame there's not much I can do about that, not that I know of. Now I just need to get another one like this to replace the Samsung.
> 
> Haven't tried Overclocking it yet or calibrating, I'm sure it'll look even better once I do.
> 
> Sorry about the photographs, my camera is pretty awful in low light conditions or any conditions for that matter. That is not BLB you're seeing in the bottom image, that's a flashlight so you can actually see the name of the monitor.


Awesome mate, that's an epic monitor














Im in the uk and ordered from green sum aswell







how long did your delivery take? Mine was dispatched yesterday, do you think I should have it this week ?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Anyone have new ICC profiles that they are using?
> 
> I think the OP needs to update the ICC profiles in the opening page because some of the links are dead.
> 
> We should possibly start a page with just ICC profiles.


Here's one I made:

120Hz-t6500-b120-g2.2-k0.2-A8.0-qh-bpc-XYZ-Moragg.zip 1414k .zip file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakebeefcake*
> 
> Awesome mate, that's an epic monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im in the uk and ordered from green sum aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how long did your delivery take? Mine was dispatched yesterday, do you think I should have it this week ?


Mine about 3-4 days (to UK), so you should get it by Friday unless it gets held up in customs.


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I think I remember hearing that to get the bios to show up during boot will just depend on your motherboard and/or graphics card compatibility since these monitors are so basic.


my motherboard is GA-G41MT-S2P and graphics card is SAPPHIRE VAPOR-X HD 5770 1GB GDDR5 so whats i do now


----------



## eurusd

Hello

just lurking the korean monitors thread since a year and wanting to get one this time









For xbox/macbook/... uses do i prefer a one with multi entries or may i get later some specific adapters? i'm moving from my flat in a few time and don't know where the screen will get (so the purpose of the screen too)

thanks!


----------



## sweezy

Okay I have the strangest issue with my computer. I know it's not the monitor because this was present when using my earlier Dell aswell.

The thing is, any color profile I try to use gets reset within _A SECOND_ to default. Like, I can visually see it becoming nice, only to revert back instantly. Everyone else I've found have managed to get their profile working but reset upon reboots, etc. What's with my computer?

Edit: Fixed it. Was F-Lux that was running in the background.


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eurusd*
> 
> Hello
> 
> just lurking the korean monitors thread since a year and wanting to get one this time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For xbox/macbook/... uses do i prefer a one with multi entries or may i get later some specific adapters? i'm moving from my flat in a few time and don't know where the screen will get (so the purpose of the screen too)
> 
> thanks!


Well if this is for xbox, why would you want this resolution? The xbox does not support gaming above 720p, even the new xbox and ps3 only go to 1080p. As for mac, I would assume unless you have spent upwards of a small countrys gdp, the mac wont support this monitor







Sounds like you should get a multi input 1080p screen


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Here's one I made:
> 
> 120Hz-t6500-b120-g2.2-k0.2-A8.0-qh-bpc-XYZ-Moragg.zip 1414k .zip file
> 
> Mine about 3-4 days (to UK), so you should get it by Friday unless it gets held up in customs.


Awesome, fingers crossed


----------



## eurusd

actually i think i want to use it like a TV screen under certain circonstance


----------



## Heliar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakebeefcake*
> 
> Awesome mate, that's an epic monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im in the uk and ordered from green sum aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how long did your delivery take? Mine was dispatched yesterday, do you think I should have it this week ?


Mine took exactly a week to arrive, ordered on Monday as well. Although it got dispatched 2 days after I purchased it. You should get yours this week hopefully


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> my motherboard is GA-G41MT-S2P and graphics card is SAPPHIRE VAPOR-X HD 5770 1GB GDDR5 so whats i do now


Well the 5770 is listed as specifically not compatible with this monitor. SO its cool that you got it working with that card but if you are having issues I would have to guess that they are due to GPU incompatibilities.


----------



## rubixcube101

Does anyone else find that their graphics card runs quite a bit hotter when running at a higher refresh rate? by hotter i mean 8 degrees or so.

And also one other question, when the whites look brighter on onside of the screen as opposed to the other is this due to backlight bleed?


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Well the 5770 is listed as specifically not compatible with this monitor. SO its cool that you got it working with that card but if you are having issues I would have to guess that they are due to GPU incompatibilities.


so i think he say that because the dvi but my dvi is working with it because its dual link so wheres the problem now does any one face this problem or every one is working perfectly


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> so i think he say that because the dvi but my dvi is working with it because its dual link so wheres the problem now does any one face this problem or every one is working perfectly


The sellers may say that but any Dual Link DVI-D or DVI-I port will work with these monitors.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Well the 5770 is listed as specifically not compatible with this monitor. SO its cool that you got it working with that card but if you are having issues I would have to guess that they are due to GPU incompatibilities.
> 
> [misleading, inaccurate picture]


That picture is inaccurate and misleading, and should not be relied upon or given as a guideline given how wrong it can be. It makes me want to rage lol. The person who made it has no clue whatsoever as to the technology involved and made more than a few mistakes. At least it makes fewer errors (although no less egregious) than other charts I've seen.
Quote:


> so i think he say that because the dvi but my dvi is working with it because its dual link so wheres the problem now does any one face this problem or every one is working perfectly


My HD 5770 certainly worked with my Catleap.

In fact, my HD 5770 works amazingly, even showing my BIOS perfectly every time. But my Catleap was a 2B.


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> The sellers may say that but any Dual Link DVI-D or DVI-I port will work with these monitors.


So what the Solution for this problem


----------



## Heliar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubixcube101*
> 
> Does anyone else find that their graphics card runs quite a bit hotter when running at a higher refresh rate? by hotter i mean 8 degrees or so.
> 
> And also one other question, when the whites look brighter on onside of the screen as opposed to the other is this due to backlight bleed?


I haven't tested it on different refresh rates yet, I've only played all my games at 96hz. I have noticed most of my games now run at around 70+ C on a GTX 560ti Twin Frozr. Where as before they'd be around 10C cooler. A lot of my games now require a constant 90%+ usage from my card. That's most likely due to just a huge increase of pixel density from 1680x1050 to 2560x1440 (at least in my case)

If your PC is powerful enough to run over 96fps @ this resolutin then it's entirely possible you get the temp increase because it's playing at higher frames/s. That's what happened to my card on my old monitor and I had to force vsync on to lock frames at 60.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That picture is inaccurate and misleading, and should not be relied upon or given as a guideline given how wrong it can be. It makes me want to rage lol. The person who made it has no clue whatsoever as to the technology involved and made more than a few mistakes. At least it makes fewer errors (although no less egregious) than other charts I've seen.
> My HD 5770 certainly worked with my Catleap.
> 
> In fact, my HD 5770 works amazingly, even showing my BIOS perfectly every time. But my Catleap was a 2B.


So then it has to be motherboard related if your also have a 5770 and can see the bios fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heliar*
> 
> I haven't tested it on different refresh rates yet, I've only played all my games at 96hz. I have noticed most of my games now run at around 70+ C on a GTX 560ti Twin Frozr. Where as before they'd be around 10C cooler. A lot of my games now require a constant 90%+ usage from my card. That's most likely due to just a huge increase of pixel density from 1680x1050 to 2560x1440 (at least in my case)
> 
> If your PC is powerful enough to run over 96fps @ this resolutin then it's entirely possible you get the temp increase because it's playing at higher frames/s. That's what happened to my card and I had to force vsync on to lock frames at 60.


Why would you want to have a monitor at 96Hz and your FPS locked at 60? And if vsync auto locks your frames to 60, then are you sure the 96Hz is really working?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> So what the Solution for this problem


Get another monitor.

Unfortunately.

That's what I do right now to see my BIOS, as my Qnix doesn't show BIOS on my GTX 680.


----------



## Heliar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> So then it has to be motherboard related if your also have a 5770 and can see the bios fine.
> Why would you want to have a monitor at 96Hz and your FPS locked at 60? And if vsync auto locks your frames to 60, then are you sure the 96Hz is really working?


I was referring to my previous 20" monitor not the current QNIX. Sorry I probably didn't make that clear enough.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubixcube101*
> 
> Does anyone else find that their graphics card runs quite a bit hotter when running at a higher refresh rate? by hotter i mean 8 degrees or so.
> 
> And also one other question, when the whites look brighter on onside of the screen as opposed to the other is this due to backlight bleed?


Qnix monitors have uniformity issues when overclocked. They may be fine at stock, but once you start going higher, the screen tends to get patchy.

The heat is due to the card working slightly hard to keep up with the higher refresh rate - it doesn't downclock as far when idle. I have that same problem with my GTX 680, but then again, I have a complicated 3-monitor setup with hack drivers and mixed refresh rates...


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Get another monitor.
> 
> Unfortunately.
> 
> That's what I do right now to see my BIOS, as my Qnix doesn't show BIOS on my GTX 680.


oh man really the problem from monitor ??????????


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That picture is inaccurate and misleading, and should not be relied upon or given as a guideline given how wrong it can be. It makes me want to rage lol. The person who made it has no clue whatsoever as to the technology involved and made more than a few mistakes. At least it makes fewer errors (although no less egregious) than other charts I've seen.
> My HD 5770 certainly worked with my Catleap.
> 
> In fact, my HD 5770 works amazingly, even showing my BIOS perfectly every time. But my Catleap was a 2B.


Yeah, I had a heck of a time figuring out that I could connect my DVI-I Dual Link port to an X-star if I just used a DVI-D Dual Link cable (which comes with the monitor). It just bypasses the analog pins which the monitor does not use.

This is the most correct explanation as far as I can tell:


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sensuki*
> 
> Hi guys I've been following this thread a while although I only just joined today
> 
> I bought a QNIX QX2710 Matte non-PP from dream-seller on friday last week for $289
> 
> Arrived today in the mail. Set it up and it OCs to 120Hz using CRU and LCD - reduced settings


Verified. Thank you


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> Yeah, I had a heck of a time figuring out that I could connect my DVI-I Dual Link port to an X-star if I just used a DVI-D Dual Link cable (which comes with the monitor). It just bypasses the analog pins which the monitor does not use.
> 
> This is the most correct explanation as far as I can tell:


Yes!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> oh man really the problem from monitor ??????????


The "problem" could also be construed to be with your motherboard. Either way, the BIOS screen isn't talking to the monitor - they speak different languages.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sensuki*


Old school keyboard


----------



## jerrolds

My Tempest OC shows the BIOS if theres no secondary monitors attached - an HDMI HDTV connection works tho (both show the BIOS). This is with a Radeon 7970


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> My Tempest OC shows the BIOS if theres no secondary monitors attached - an HDMI HDTV connection works tho (both show the BIOS). This is with a Radeon 7970


Not sure how much this helps but i have a GTX570 and a Mobo with a video chipset. When connected to the 570 i see the bios. When connected to the Mobo i do not but i always get to windows.


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Get another monitor.
> 
> Unfortunately.
> 
> That's what I do right now to see my BIOS, as my Qnix doesn't show BIOS on my GTX 680.


That is pretty weird, I have a crappy 560ti and my bios work perfectly including safe mode and any other functions like booting from a cd.

But on the uniformity I think its luck of the draw just like with the people that have less backlight bleeding then others, the same goes for uniformity issues and image retention when oced.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> That is pretty weird, I have a crappy 560ti and my bios work perfectly including safe mode and any other functions like booting from a cd.


Weird, eh? I never understood it, why my HD 5770 works fine but my GTX 680 doesn't.
Quote:


> But on the uniformity I think its luck of the draw just like with the people that have less backlight bleeding then others, the same goes for uniformity issues and image retention when oced.


Yeah, to different extents. It is a common feature to almost every Qnix overclock where it's been measured though - including mine. I haven't found image retention - lucky me!


----------



## Opiumden23

Since I have $210 in gift certificates at amazon, and there are a few sellers of this on there, would getting it from amazon be a good idea? I've been looking at 27" 1440 monitors for almost a year now. I've been trying to find a monitor that I can get from there, but have been weighing the cost vs build quality and returnability issues that we all know about. I don't even care about overclocking, but nice black levels are something I'm looking for.


----------



## Spartan F8

I have found that manually adjusting timings can reduce the bad uniformity. One of the main things that seemed to effect mine was the "total pixels" this is likely due to the pixel clock getting lowered.


----------



## monistor

[quote
The "problem" could also be construed to be with your motherboard. Either way, the BIOS screen isn't talking to the monitor - they speak different languages.
[/quote] so where is the prblem now


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Weird, eh? I never understood it, why my HD 5770 works fine but my GTX 680 doesn't.
> Yeah, to different extents. It is a common feature to almost every Qnix overclock where it's been measured though - including mine. I haven't found image retention - lucky me!


My X-star overclocked at 120Hz doesn't have any patchy areas, also no IR. However, I do notice that the gamma correction appears to drop considerably. I know others a have mentioned "brightness" drops, but I'm pretty sure its actually the gama.


----------



## Spartan F8

Can anyone who has REALLY pushed this monitor post their timings. I have gotten pretty far myself but i think it ould be neat to see what others are doing and it may be some help to other members that are stuck at 96hz or have 120hz but have side effects.


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Can anyone who has REALLY pushed this monitor post their timings. I have gotten pretty far myself but i think it ould be neat to see what others are doing and it may be some help to other members that are stuck at 96hz or have 120hz but have side effects.


Well I have gotten to 134hz without patching the drivers, I also kept the timings on automatic in the nvidia control panel.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> Well I have gotten to 134hz without patching the drivers, I also kept the timings on automatic in the nvidia control panel.


*without* patching the drivers??


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> Well I have gotten to 134hz without patching the drivers, I also kept the timings on automatic in the nvidia control panel.


Umm....wow you have got a hell of good monitor there. Do you see any screen uniformity issues? or screen judder?


----------



## jerrolds

For CRU - try "LCD Reduced" then bump the bottom number from 64 to 60, and the right column from 2,2,2 to 1,2,2

Basically ending up with 2700x1445

Sorry im at work and i dont know the timings off by heart, but thats pretty much my optimal timings and should give stability and maybe even add 1 or 2hz to some overclocks. Ill try and post screen shots later.


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> *without* patching the drivers??


I mean without using Toasty's cru tool and going into test mode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Umm....wow you have got a hell of good monitor there. Do you see any screen uniformity issues? or screen judder?


Now I took some pictures but they kind of dont proof anything at all I dont notice uniformity issues but on the camera there is some kind of a difference so I will make a small video later today but I dont understand how the drivers calculate any kind of automatic timing settings since they stay the same between 96hz or any other refresh rate, only the pixel clock goes up.

Edit: I dont get any kind of scan lines or image retention at all when I used 134hz for about 15 minutes before switching back to 96, But there may have been some uniformity issues when I made a full green screen but ill have to do it again when I make the video.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> I mean without using Toasty's cru tool and going into test mode.
> Now I took some pictures but they kind of dont proof anything at all I dont notice uniformity issues but on the camera there is some kind of a difference so I will make a small video later today but I dont understand how the drivers calculate any kind of automatic timing settings since they stay the same between 96hz or any other refresh rate, only the pixel clock goes up.
> 
> Edit: I dont get any kind of scan lines or image retention at all when I used 134hz for about 15 minutes before switching back to 96, But there may have been some uniformity issues when I made a full green screen but ill have to do it again when I make the video.


What GPU are you using ?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opiumden23*
> 
> Since I have $210 in gift certificates at amazon, and there are a few sellers of this on there, would getting it from amazon be a good idea? I've been looking at 27" 1440 monitors for almost a year now. I've been trying to find a monitor that I can get from there, but have been weighing the cost vs build quality and returnability issues that we all know about. I don't even care about overclocking, but nice black levels are something I'm looking for.


A few people have purchased from amazon. Look through the members list in the OP for sellers they bought from (start from the bottom of the list and work your way up)


----------



## Slickshooter

Hey guys am also about to buy one of these monitors, but just have a few questions as it's time consuming to go through every post.

So:

Qnix or X-star? Matte or Glossy? I am in a pretty dark room and my brother's glossy dell always blows me away compared to a matte ASUS I recently tried (both supposedly IPS). Any personal reasons for which one you chose?

Which seller is most reliable? I want to maximize my chance of getting one without any backlight bleed, Amazon actually seems to have a seller called MNW GLOBAL, but not afraid of ebay. Is backlight bleed repair easy?

Longevity? How long can I expect this baby to last at 96hz? I'm hoping for at least 4-5 years.

And finally, I'd love to sometimes watch tv/ play video games/ stuff on the screen, I know it's DVI-Dual only, but is it possible another monitor will come out soon with a scalar and have low input lag?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> Hey guys am also about to buy one of these monitors, but just have a few questions as it's time consuming to go through every post.
> 
> So:
> 
> Qnix or X-star? Matte or Glossy? I am in a pretty dark room and my brother's glossy dell always blows me away compared to a matte ASUS I recently tried (both supposedly IPS). Any personal reasons for which one you chose?
> 
> Which seller is most reliable? I want to maximize my chance of getting one without any backlight bleed, Amazon actually seems to have a seller called MNW GLOBAL, but not afraid of ebay. Is backlight bleed repair easy?
> 
> Longevity? How long can I expect this baby to last at 96hz? I'm hoping for at least 4-5 years.
> 
> And finally, I'd love to sometimes watch tv/ play video games/ stuff on the screen, I know it's DVI-Dual only, but is it possible another monitor will come out soon with a scalar and have low input lag?


All of this has been gone over in this thread so here is a very brief summary.

1. Qnix and xstar are identical this should not be a factor in your decision.
2. Matte works fine as it is very light but if you are in a dark room you may benefit slightly from glossy in terms of color. (very slightly)
3. hulustar, greensum, dreamseller, accessorieswhole, Bigclothcraft* are a few. Really look at price and warranty more than seller
4. the bleed repair is pretty easy and the video in the OP helps a lot.
5. plenty have people have had these for over a year now with no longevity problems. They have not be out long enough to know for sure.
6. there is a Qni with a scalaer and multiports on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Qnix-QX2700-LED-HDMI-1-4a-2560x1440-S-IPS-Monitor-/170952815050?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item27cd94f1ca

7. input lag would be there but noone has tested how much so yet.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> Hey guys am also about to buy one of these monitors, but just have a few questions as it's time consuming to go through every post.
> 
> So:
> 
> Qnix or X-star? Matte or Glossy? I am in a pretty dark room and my brother's glossy dell always blows me away compared to a matte ASUS I recently tried (both supposedly IPS). Any personal reasons for which one you chose?
> 
> Which seller is most reliable? I want to maximize my chance of getting one without any backlight bleed, Amazon actually seems to have a seller called MNW GLOBAL, but not afraid of ebay. Is backlight bleed repair easy?
> 
> Longevity? How long can I expect this baby to last at 96hz? I'm hoping for at least 4-5 years.
> 
> And finally, I'd love to sometimes watch tv/ play video games/ stuff on the screen, I know it's DVI-Dual only, but is it possible another monitor will come out soon with a scalar and have low input lag?


QNIX and X-star are equivalent in just about every way (apparently there is a slight difference in the bases construction). I've OC'ed my X-star, many have OC'ed their QNIX without issue. I say flip a coin or buy whichever costs less at the moment.

All the panels come from South Korea so your odds of getting a good panel are about the same anywhere you purchase. The thing I would look for is communication and the seller/stores return policy if you do end up with a defective product. I don't have any examples of people having to return items on here, but I made sure I bought from a store that had a well defined return policy.

They already have a QNIX with a scalar and DPort inputs, no idea on the input lag on that model though.

edit:

Spartan F8 are talking about different models by the way:

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710LED-Evolution-II-Monitor-Display-Port-p/qni3.htm


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> All of this has been gone over in this thread so here is a very brief summary.
> 
> 1. Qnix and xstar are identical this should not be a factor in your decision.
> 2. Matte works fine as it is very light but if you are in a dark room you may benefit slightly from glossy in terms of color. (very slightly)
> 3. hulustar, greensum, dreamseller, accessorieswhole, Bigclothcraft* are a few. Really look at price and warranty more than seller
> 4. the bleed repair is pretty easy and the video in the OP helps a lot.
> 5. plenty have people have had these for over a year now with no longevity problems. They have not be out long enough to know for sure.
> 6. there is a Qni with a scalaer and multiports on ebay
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Qnix-QX2700-LED-HDMI-1-4a-2560x1440-S-IPS-Monitor-/170952815050?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item27cd94f1ca
> 
> 7. input lag would be there but noone has tested how much so yet.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> QNIX and X-star are equivalent in just about every way (apparently there is a slight difference in the bases construction). I've OC'ed my X-star, many have OC'ed their QNIX without issue. I say flip a coin or buy whichever costs less at the moment.
> 
> All the panels come from South Korea so your odds of getting a good panel are about the same anywhere you purchase. The thing I would look for is communication and the seller/stores return policy if you do end up with a defective product. I don't have any examples of people having to return items on here, but I made sure I bought from a store that had a well defined return policy.
> 
> They already have a QNIX with a scalar and DPort inputs, no idea on the input lag on that model though.
> 
> edit:
> 
> Spartan F8 are talking about different models by the way:
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710LED-Evolution-II-Monitor-Display-Port-p/qni3.htm


Thanks for the info guys. That displayport model actually looks perfect but out of my budget. Oh well, can't have everything.

I am leaning towards glossy over matte, any reason I would regret it? Polls say most people get matte.

Down to these two:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111099660820?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de0e4a14

Green-sum has that common pixel diagram which is clear.
Accessories whole says 3 pixels maximum, anyone with experience can clarify what that means? Both look like they have good return policies?


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> Thanks for the info guys. That displayport model actually looks perfect but out of my budget. Oh well, can't have everything.
> 
> I am leaning towards glossy over matte, any reason I would regret it? Polls say most people get matte.
> 
> Down to these two:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111099660820?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de0e4a14
> 
> Green-sum has that common pixel diagram which is clear.
> Accessories whole says 3 pixels maximum, anyone with experience can clarify what that means? Both look like they have good return policies?


Green-Sums diagram means 1 dead pixel in section 5 (center) is considered a defect, up to 5 dead pixels in any other region does not constitute a defect and cannot be returned or replaced by the seller.

That's why a lot of people when with pixel perfect, ~$50 more and you can return it if you have any dead pixels. Although, I'm not sure if you have to pay for shipping back to korea which is probably expensive.

edit: Both say buyer pays return shipping.


----------



## Slickshooter

Yeah, green-sum one makes sense. Not understanding the 3 pixel limit of accessorieswhole.


----------



## Spartan F8

For anyone interested i have found pushing the total pixels and lines as low as possible helped quite a bit and did reduce uniformity issues. You kinda just keep lowering it 10 at a time for pixels and 1 at a time for the lines until you reach the lowest point(meaing the screen doesn't come back or comes back with lines and what not). After doing this my overall pixel clock for [email protected] was only 443MHz. Getting the pixel clock as low as possible without rendering issues seemed to be what allowed me to go further in terms of refresh.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Good find and yeah I think someone else mentioned something similar before; maybe was you.

Sucks that all the good and helpful to all info like that gets essentially lost in the pages and pages of new people asking the same basic questions over and over that are covered in the OP (not to mention probably a max of 5 pages back too by some other FNG). This is a main reason they are so long too; it's a self-perpetuating problem.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Good find and yeah I think someone else mentioned something similar before; maybe was you.
> 
> Sucks that all the good and helpful to all info like that gets essentially lost in the pages and pages of new people asking the same basic questions over and over that are covered in the OP (not to mention probably a max of 5 pages back too by some other FNG). This is a main reason they are so long too; it's a self-perpetuating problem.


Could we start a korean ips/pls wiki or something?


----------



## rubixcube101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Qnix monitors have uniformity issues when overclocked. They may be fine at stock, but once you start going higher, the screen tends to get patchy.
> 
> The heat is due to the card working slightly hard to keep up with the higher refresh rate - it doesn't downclock as far when idle. I have that same problem with my GTX 680, but then again, I have a complicated 3-monitor setup with hack drivers and mixed refresh rates...


That would make sense, i understand higher temps when running card at load, but my main concern is idle temps as it was running significantly hotter. Ill have to check what it downclocks too. I guess I'll just run my monitor overclocked only whilst gaming because a loud 7970 reference isn't very pleasant at idle!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Good find and yeah I think someone else mentioned something similar before; maybe was you.
> 
> Sucks that all the good and helpful to all info like that gets essentially lost in the pages and pages of new people asking the same basic questions over and over that are covered in the OP (not to mention probably a max of 5 pages back too by some other FNG). This is a main reason they are so long too; it's a self-perpetuating problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Could we start a korean ips/pls wiki or something?
Click to expand...

Or people can read the op, the work is already put into it and information present. Reading is not dangerous yet people avoid it


----------



## Intake

Received my monitor yesterday from green-sum. I bought the perfect pixel edition for $310. I found one dead/dark pixel on the left side but its not a big deal because I don't notice it unless i try to find it. The main concern I have is my severe backlight bleeding. The one I received seems to have pretty bad BLB, I tried loosing the screws on every corner and the middle it seemed to help a little bit and made it not as bad but here are some pics of it after i loosened the screws. I sent out an email to green-sum to request for a replacement, I hope it goes smoothly. will keep you guys updated.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intake*


Yeah perfect pixel eh? That's some hardcore BLB. Let us know how the return process is, I'm really curious because I'm considering getting another PLS.


----------



## Intake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> Yeah perfect pixel eh? That's some hardcore BLB. Let us know how the return process is, I'm really curious because I'm considering getting another PLS.


Yeah it is.. haha. Well I only bought the perfect pixel edition because I didn't want any bright pixels on my screen and wanted that guarantee for $20 more. I was expecting a little BLB but this is way too much imo. Hopefully all goes well, will definitely keep you guys updated.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intake*
> 
> Received my monitor yesterday from green-sum. I bought the perfect pixel edition for $310. I found one dead/dark pixel on the left side but its not a big deal because I don't notice it unless i try to find it. The main concern I have is my severe backlight bleeding. The one I received seems to have pretty bad BLB, I tried loosing the screws on every corner and the middle it seemed to help a little bit and made it not as bad but here are some pics of it after i loosened the screws. I sent out an email to green-sum to request for a replacement, I hope it goes smoothly. will keep you guys updated.


Looks like you need to do the tape mod..


----------



## Intricate09

I bought two of these, as well as a new GTX 770 to power them. One is nearly flawless, with just 1 dead pixel that's barely noticeable. Unfortunately, the other has a TERRIBLE line on the left side that is just downright unacceptable.



I've switched power cords, tried a new DVI, and plugged the monitor into two other computers. It's definitely the monitor itself causing this problem.

I'm assuming I just have to ship this one back. Is there any home fix for this before I start this dreadful process?


----------



## Remmib

^ Oh man, I had an open-box Asus that had that problem, returned it obviously...

Don't think there is a home-fix man...


----------



## Intricate09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> ^ Oh man, I had an open-box Asus that had that problem, returned it obviously...
> 
> Don't think there is a home-fix man...


I was afraid of that.







I've messaged dream-seller, who's been pretty good up until now. We'll see how it turns out in the end though. Shipping to Korea isn't cheap, and if I have to eat that cost I won't be happy...


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intricate09*
> 
> I was afraid of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've messaged dream-seller, who's been pretty good up until now. We'll see how it turns out in the end though. Shipping to Korea isn't cheap, and if I have to eat that cost I won't be happy...


I would not settle for anything less than him eating the cost of the return shipping.


----------



## genidoi

Anyone notice the price bump that happened this morning? The cheapest qnix is now $330, was $310 before. Will these PLS panels suffer the same fate as the Catleap 2B?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Anyone notice the price bump that happened this morning? The cheapest qnix is now $330, was $310 before. Will these PLS panels suffer the same fate as the Catleap 2B?


They are still the same price on here..

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> They are still the same price on here..
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm


I'm pretty sure they will update it shortly, I just asked BCC why the prices have gone up, this was his/her reply:

Hello

We raise our price today
because the price from manufacturer is raise too

I'm sorry but
this is our bet price now .

Have a good day
Thank you
Jane


----------



## genidoi

double post


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> I'm pretty sure they will update it shortly, I just asked BCC why the prices have gone up, this was his/her reply:
> 
> Hello
> 
> We raise our price today
> because the price from manufacturer is raise too
> 
> I'm sorry but
> this is our bet price now .
> 
> Have a good day
> Thank you
> Jane


Still $289..Same as last week..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Looks like you need to do the tape mod..


Looks like he is better of with a new monitor instead.


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> For anyone interested i have found pushing the total pixels and lines as low as possible helped quite a bit and did reduce uniformity issues. You kinda just keep lowering it 10 at a time for pixels and 1 at a time for the lines until you reach the lowest point(meaing the screen doesn't come back or comes back with lines and what not). After doing this my overall pixel clock for [email protected] was only 443MHz. Getting the pixel clock as low as possible without rendering issues seemed to be what allowed me to go further in terms of refresh.


Great find. What are the settings you now use exactly?

This should be added to the OP for sure.


----------



## MainChicken

does anyone know for sure if this monitor uses PWM? There are some conflicting reports in this thread.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Verified. Thank you


Is that an old IBM keyboard?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Anyone notice the price bump that happened this morning? The cheapest qnix is now $330, was $310 before. Will these PLS panels suffer the same fate as the Catleap 2B?


I see HuluStar raised his prices, but looks like Green-Sum still has the same price...


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intake*
> 
> Received my monitor yesterday from green-sum. I bought the perfect pixel edition for $310. I found one dead/dark pixel on the left side but its not a big deal because I don't notice it unless i try to find it. The main concern I have is my severe backlight bleeding. The one I received seems to have pretty bad BLB, I tried loosing the screws on every corner and the middle it seemed to help a little bit and made it not as bad but here are some pics of it after i loosened the screws. I sent out an email to green-sum to request for a replacement, I hope it goes smoothly. will keep you guys updated.


Tape mod won't fix that, the metal frame that holds the panel is not aligned properly. Mine was honestly as bad as yours, now it's perfect but it was a lot of trouble to fix it. From the way the backlight runs to the corners I would guess that your frame is making the panel far too concave.

Detailed instructions here:

A good analogy would be when you twist a wet cloth to rinse it, though with much less force (obviously). Imagine your holding the metal frame in your hands with your knuckles upwards, then you twist the frame in your hands by rotating your hands forwards.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3590#post_20268846


----------



## rubixcube101

does anyone else have an issue with green flash videos and no video playback for certain files after switching between overclocking the refresh rate? i have disabled hardware acceleration so im not sure whats causing it. any ideas? Cheers

Its quite bizarre, i have my 7970 connected to my qnix, and gtx 260 powering another monitor. Mkv works on the 260 but not on the 7970 when using windows media player (like it used too), and most flash videos work except those on tumblr, which work on neither screens!


----------



## Intake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> Tape mod won't fix that, the metal frame that holds the panel is not aligned properly. Mine was honestly as bad as yours, now it's perfect but it was a lot of trouble to fix it. From the way the backlight runs to the corners I would guess that your frame is making the panel far too concave.
> 
> Detailed instructions here:
> 
> A good analogy would be when you twist a wet cloth to rinse it, though with much less force (obviously). Imagine your holding the metal frame in your hands with your knuckles upwards, then you twist the frame in your hands by rotating your hands forwards.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3590#post_20268846


Thanks for the response. Yeah, I was also assuming that it was a bent frame that was causing that. How long did it take you to fix the frame? Just out of curiosity, what made you decide to fix it instead of requesting for an exchange?

I'm not sure if its worth the hassle of going through all that trouble to get it fixed, although asking for an exchange is probably as troublesome as fixing it. Maybe I should just request for a partial refund instead and try to fix it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeys*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Verified. Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that an old IBM keyboard?
Click to expand...

I think you meant to quote the other guy. Yea, i think it is an old IBM keyboard. Upon zooming in, it says IBM on it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sensuki*
> 
> 
> Sensuki


----------



## pastuch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubixcube101*
> 
> does anyone else have an issue with green flash videos and no video playback for certain files after switching between overclocking the refresh rate? i have disabled hardware acceleration so im not sure whats causing it. any ideas? Cheers
> 
> Its quite bizarre, i have my 7970 connected to my qnix, and gtx 260 powering another monitor. Mkv works on the 260 but not on the 7970 when using windows media player (like it used too), and most flash videos work except those on tumblr, which work on neither screens!


Try videolan, sounds like a codec problem. WMP sucks.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Anyone notice the price bump that happened this morning? The cheapest qnix is now $330, was $310 before. Will these PLS panels suffer the same fate as the Catleap 2B?


The Price over time trendline in the OP under expandable section "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis" suggests an increasing of price.


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intake*
> 
> Received my monitor yesterday from green-sum. I bought the perfect pixel edition for $310. I found one dead/dark pixel on the left side but its not a big deal because I don't notice it unless i try to find it. The main concern I have is my severe backlight bleeding. The one I received seems to have pretty bad BLB, I tried loosing the screws on every corner and the middle it seemed to help a little bit and made it not as bad but here are some pics of it after i loosened the screws. I sent out an email to green-sum to request for a replacement, I hope it goes smoothly. will keep you guys updated.


I ordered from green sum, that's unlucky mate!! Unless you can get him to cover the return postage etc, then I would recommend a partial refund. Make a fuss though, keep messaging open a case contact ebay etc, all these things tend to get the sellers to snap into action. I hope my monitor hasn't suffered the same fate as yours!! Good luck


----------



## Turok

Please add the below links do the wallpaper sites:

http://wallpaperstock.net/
http://www.socwall.com/

Thank you


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Great find. What are the settings you now use exactly?
> 
> This should be added to the OP for sure.


...............................H.....................V
Active pixels...2560...............1440
Front porch.......48.....................2
Sync width.........32.....................2
Total pixels.....2595...............1444
(this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
Pixel [email protected] (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
Pixel [email protected]
...................................................^
this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU. If you use just the nvidia control panel and use CVT reduced you are at like 500Mhz already. With just the control panel i was able to get 134Hz which is 559Mhz before things got messy. Thinking of this as a kinda limit i tried to get the pixel clock as low as possible and then try again. This got me to 142hz which was just under the pixel clock of what i got before confirming they are very relative to each other. Next after adding the monoprice cable that was better than stock i got to 152Hz at just over the original 559Mhz showing some bandwidth improvement. Now since i hate uniformity issues i have set it back to 120hz but with the newly found total pixels and overall lower pixel clock. This reduced the "strain" i guess that was on the cable for the overclock and vastly decreased negative overclocking effects(gamma shift was better, uniformity was pretty much gone, etc)

Also using this same methodology i tried downsampling the screen to see how high the pixel count could go on this monitor. I am not going to get too much into it but i was able to get [email protected] with an overall pixel clock of 561Mhz. Please be careful when downsampling though as it can cause the monitor to go into test mode and also corrupt the start resolution. If you do get where restarting the PC does not bring the picture back connect a separate monitor and boot windows, then connect the Qnix as secondary. After that you can switch it to primary and go on as normal. If anyone sees anywhere this can be improved PLEASE jump in. I have done a lot of reading but there could always be something i missed.

Hopefully this helps some people get 120hz or at least some better results at that refresh









EDIT: Fixed weird space removal


----------



## lurker2501




----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*


Verified thank you









TooYellow and Mainian still need to post up verification pics, else their entry will be deleted.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turok*
> 
> Please add the below links do the wallpaper sites:
> 
> http://wallpaperstock.net/
> http://www.socwall.com/
> 
> Thank you


done


----------



## noname2020x

So I pulled the trigger, got my QNIX from greensum W/O PP.

Looks great other than a little backlight bleed.

Questions:

For the overclocking tutorial I opened and ran the Nvidia Pixel Clock Patecher. It showed a bunch of stuff and said path? So i clicked patch and then ran test mode, but no test mode logo showed up or anything. I restarted, changed Nvidia control panel settings and all, and it I believe its running at 96hz. Any way to check? Does patching the Nvidia card do anything bad to the card or the system? Can it ever? If it can't why does it require a "patch". One last thing: Should I just leave it at 96hz? If not is there a way I can easily switch from 96 to 60 because as it stands it seems like a I have to switch in the OCer, NVCP and Windows.

THANNNKK YOU!!!


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intake*
> 
> Received my monitor yesterday from green-sum. I bought the perfect pixel edition for $310. I found one dead/dark pixel on the left side but its not a big deal because I don't notice it unless i try to find it. The main concern I have is my severe backlight bleeding. The one I received seems to have pretty bad BLB, I tried loosing the screws on every corner and the middle it seemed to help a little bit and made it not as bad but here are some pics of it after i loosened the screws. I sent out an email to green-sum to request for a replacement, I hope it goes smoothly. will keep you guys updated.


Damn son, I wish you the best of luck.


----------



## Intake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timu*
> 
> Damn son, I wish you the best of luck.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakebeefcake*
> 
> I ordered from green sum, that's unlucky mate!! Unless you can get him to cover the return postage etc, then I would recommend a partial refund. Make a fuss though, keep messaging open a case contact ebay etc, all these things tend to get the sellers to snap into action. I hope my monitor hasn't suffered the same fate as yours!! Good luck


Yeah it really is unlucky. I already have messaged him through ebay and opened a case , sent him pics and etc. I sent a message yesterday but had no response by 4pm, and they usually respond before noon but once I opened a case he responded to me within 3 hours. Funny how it works. I hope all goes well too.. here's what he had to say so far.
Quote:


> "Hello, this is Green sum. We are deeply sorry that if you have any inconvenience, we are going to support our best for you. Please don't worry about it. We have the policy about the defective item and return. Because we need to check the fault with the manufacture for sure, please understand the steps. As you know, we've been communicating through the ebay messages about our policy. "


Quote:


> "We informed the bleeding policy as your questions before you ordered below. "All of our monitors get tested before they are shipped out. However, in rare cases the item may have small backlight bleeding by the nature of manufacturing. This does not cause any major problem for users but the light can be shown in the dark place. Please consider this case before making the purchase." We are informing this policy due to we need the warranty from the manufacture also."


Quote:


> "BTW, if you would like to return the item and change it ,we are going to do for you at this time. Actually, we need the time to check this pictures with our manufacture, but we are going to reserve to pick it up as soon as possible after your confirmation as our service. We are looking forward your sure confirmation. Thank you. "


I'll try to ask for a partial refund too depending on the amount they offer, ill decide whether I should just keep it or get an exchange. And do what pastuch did and bend the metal frame straight.


----------



## noname2020x

Ok, I'm kinda freakin out. After enjoying my new monitor for a while, now all of the sudden my res is 800 and my graphics card isnt recognized. =0

I didn't do anything to stress it out or even test it. Whats the deal?!


----------



## 176355

So according to DHL they delivered my monitor today, too bad it was to the wrong person\address. This should be fun, ugh...


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> So according to DHL they delivered my monitor today, too bad it was to the wrong person\address. This should be fun, ugh...


Oh god...good luck dude.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> ...............................H.....................V
> Active pixels...2560...............1440
> Front porch.......48.....................2
> Sync width.........32.....................2
> Total pixels.....2595...............1444
> (this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
> Pixel [email protected] (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
> Pixel [email protected]
> ...................................................^
> this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU. If you use just the nvidia control panel and use CVT reduced you are at like 500Mhz already. With just the control panel i was able to get 134Hz which is 559Mhz before things got messy. Thinking of this as a kinda limit i tried to get the pixel clock as low as possible and then try again. This got me to 142hz which was just under the pixel clock of what i got before confirming they are very relative to each other. Next after adding the monoprice cable that was better than stock i got to 152Hz at just over the original 559Mhz showing some bandwidth improvement. Now since i hate uniformity issues i have set it back to 120hz but with the newly found total pixels and overall lower pixel clock. This reduced the "strain" i guess that was on the cable for the overclock and vastly decreased negative overclocking effects(gamma shift was better, uniformity was pretty much gone, etc)
> 
> Also using this same methodology i tried downsampling the screen to see how high the pixel count could go on this monitor. I am not going to get too much into it but i was able to get [email protected] with an overall pixel clock of 561Mhz. Please be careful when downsampling though as it can cause the monitor to go into test mode and also corrupt the start resolution. If you do get where restarting the PC does not bring the picture back connect a separate monitor and boot windows, then connect the Qnix as secondary. After that you can switch it to primary and go on as normal. If anyone sees anywhere this can be improved PLEASE jump in. I have done a lot of reading but there could always be something i missed.
> 
> Hopefully this helps some people get 120hz or at least some better results at that refresh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Fixed weird space removal


Those timings send my screen into a funky Green, Red, Blue flashing pattern.
strange.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Those timings send my screen into a funky Green, Red, Blue flashing pattern.
> strange.


you cannot go straight to them. you may not have as good of a cable as me or as good of a port on your Gfx card. You may also not have as good of a monitor or your monitor just responds differently. This is not a end all meet all for overclocking it is timings that is what worked for me. If you want to reduce you pixel clock and thus get possibly a higher or more stable frequency then work your way down 10 or 1 at a time in the total pixel fields like i said. You can just bluntly set your timings exactly to mine it is more complicated than that and is why i posted what my specific results were. The funky flashing is test mode and i went over that in my last post. It has also been mentioned several times before in the thread. This is not strange at all it happens when you hit timings not quite completely out of range and not completely out of range. You will see this when you are very close to what can be displayed properly and what cannot. It is a bit opposite of what the scan lines and everything are. You see it when the rendered total pixels are too low to accomplish the resolution.

Do some more reading like i did and you will have a lot better results and please post once you have made a good test run at this method. Also if anyone has any other luck wth other settings please let the rest of us know that was the goal of my post. It was NOT a recommended timings thing rather a piece of information i had luck with. There may be times were having excessive total pixels is needed(like in downsampling very low resolution monitors)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noname2020x*
> 
> Ok, I'm kinda freakin out. After enjoying my new monitor for a while, now all of the sudden my res is 800 and my graphics card isnt recognized. =0
> 
> I didn't do anything to stress it out or even test it. Whats the deal?!


This is too vague. There is SOO many things that could cause this. The fact that your graphics card is not recognized is likely an issue with drivers or your card itself not so much the monitor. If you want to rule out the monitor connect it to a different machine and see if it loads fine, if it does it is your gfx card or your machine(drivers). Not so much a good question here and more like a tech support for drivers/monitor recognition forum. i know you may be worried but help might be better found else where.


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> ...............................H.....................V
> Active pixels...2560...............1440
> Front porch.......48.....................2
> Sync width.........32.....................2
> Total pixels.....2595...............1444
> (this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
> Pixel [email protected] (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
> Pixel [email protected]
> ...................................................^
> this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU. If you use just the nvidia control panel and use CVT reduced you are at like 500Mhz already. With just the control panel i was able to get 134Hz which is 559Mhz before things got messy. Thinking of this as a kinda limit i tried to get the pixel clock as low as possible and then try again. This got me to 142hz which was just under the pixel clock of what i got before confirming they are very relative to each other. Next after adding the monoprice cable that was better than stock i got to 152Hz at just over the original 559Mhz showing some bandwidth improvement. Now since i hate uniformity issues i have set it back to 120hz but with the newly found total pixels and overall lower pixel clock. This reduced the "strain" i guess that was on the cable for the overclock and vastly decreased negative overclocking effects(gamma shift was better, uniformity was pretty much gone, etc)
> 
> Also using this same methodology i tried downsampling the screen to see how high the pixel count could go on this monitor. I am not going to get too much into it but i was able to get [email protected] with an overall pixel clock of 561Mhz. Please be careful when downsampling though as it can cause the monitor to go into test mode and also corrupt the start resolution. If you do get where restarting the PC does not bring the picture back connect a separate monitor and boot windows, then connect the Qnix as secondary. After that you can switch it to primary and go on as normal. If anyone sees anywhere this can be improved PLEASE jump in. I have done a lot of reading but there could always be something i missed.
> 
> Hopefully this helps some people get 120hz or at least some better results at that refresh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Fixed weird space removal


Thanks man. Highly appreciate this information.
By improving uniformity you mean the darkness or something else?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noname2020x*
> 
> So I pulled the trigger, got my QNIX from greensum W/O PP.
> 
> Looks great other than a little backlight bleed.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> For the overclocking tutorial I opened and ran the Nvidia Pixel Clock Patecher. It showed a bunch of stuff and said path? So i clicked patch and then ran test mode, but no test mode logo showed up or anything. I restarted, changed Nvidia control panel settings and all, and it I believe its running at 96hz. Any way to check? Does patching the Nvidia card do anything bad to the card or the system? Can it ever? If it can't why does it require a "patch". One last thing: Should I just leave it at 96hz? If not is there a way I can easily switch from 96 to 60 because as it stands it seems like a I have to switch in the OCer, NVCP and Windows.
> 
> THANNNKK YOU!!!


This has been massively covered in this forum so here is a quick summary.
1. The patch is asking where your driver or system file is that it needs to patch. Reading more on teh patch itself will help you. I common reason for this is the difference from 32 and 63 bit OS paths
2. The reason test mode did not show up is because you did not do it right(hence your first question)
3. It may very likely be running at 96hz because you can usually get to about 108hz without it since you are under the frequency limit.
4. yes there is a way to check.....refreshrate multitool or powerstrip(please read how to make these work rather than just asking they are VERY easy to use and see if it is working)
5. No it does not do anything "bad" of sorts. It mainly just removes a limit like the multiplier being unlocked on a CPU(i guess you could sy it allows YOU to do things that could be BAD without reading and knowing what you are doing)
6. Yes it can "ever hece the last questions answer.
7. it requires a patch because there is limit(also like a multiplier being locked on a CPU)
8. yes you can leave it at 96hz as that frequency has not shown any recorded bad side effects this far.
9. you can easily change it in the resolution settings i am not sure how you are seeing that it makes you change it in the "OCer" just go to the NVCP or windows resolution tool and change

Take a look over this forum and you will find the info i have provided and MUCH more detail.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Thanks man. Highly appreciate this information.
> By improving uniformity you mean the darkness or something else?


I mean the gamma or brightness scale from one side of the screen to the other(uniformity). To test this take a solid white picture or window and make it full screen at a overclocked resolution(you will see it if it is there and you will see if you have made a difference).


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> you cannot go straight to them. you may not have as good of a cable as me or as good of a port on your Gfx card. You may also not have as good of a monitor or your monitor just responds differently. This is not a end all meet all for overclocking it is timings that is what worked for me. If you want to reduce you pixel clock and thus get possibly a higher or more stable frequency then work your way down 10 or 1 at a time in the total pixel fields like i said. You can just bluntly set your timings exactly to mine it is more complicated than that and is why i posted what my specific results were. The funky flashing is test mode and i went over that in my last post. It has also been mentioned several times before in the thread. This is not strange at all it happens when you hit timings not quite completely out of range and not completely out of range. You will see this when you are very close to what can be displayed properly and what cannot. It is a bit opposite of what the scan lines and everything are. You see it when the rendered total pixels are too low to accomplish the resolution.
> 
> Do some more reading like i did and you will have a lot better results and please post once you have made a good test run at this method. Also if anyone has any other luck wth other settings please let the rest of us know that was the goal of my post. It was NOT a recommended timings thing rather a piece of information i had luck with. There may be times were having excessive total pixels is needed(like in downsampling very low resolution monitors)


Well this seems to have helped me alot getting past 114hz.

I ended up going with.

Active pixels...2560...............1440
Front porch.......48.....................2
Sync width.........32.....................2
Total pixels.....2662...............1445
@ 120hz - Pixel clock is 461.5905 MHz

I have a monoprice cable as well. Before with my 7970's I could get 120hz with normal timings. So I blame it on my new GPU (780) not my monitor or my cable.

But this is looking good right here its near perfect but still some slight lines on really dark screens but really hardly any. I had some pixel clocks that would show one or two lines every dark screen this is more like one very thin line barely visible. Only in really dark area's maybe ounce every 30 min. Its boarder line perfect I could probably reduce it to 119 and it will be gone but it doesn't bother me enough because so far with the games I played I didn't really see it. I will probably just make a 118 profile for darker games if I have to but so far 120hz is locked in now.

Thanks,
I would not have tried this if you didn't post that.


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I mean the gamma or brightness scale from one side of the screen to the other(uniformity). To test this take a solid white picture or window and make it full screen at a overclocked resolution(you will see it if it is there and you will see if you have made a difference).


Ah, now I understand what you mean!
Thanks for the explanation.

I will make the changes today or during the weekend and report my results back.


----------



## Coree

ARGH. This starts getting annoying. My monitor flickers for a millisecond every 3-4 hours when I browse the internet.. I'm running @ stock 60hz. will OCing help this issue?


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intake*
> 
> Yeah it really is unlucky. I already have messaged him through ebay and opened a case , sent him pics and etc. I sent a message yesterday but had no response by 4pm, and they usually respond before noon but once I opened a case he responded to me within 3 hours. Funny how it works. I hope all goes well too.. here's what he had to say so far.
> 
> I'll try to ask for a partial refund too depending on the amount they offer, ill decide whether I should just keep it or get an exchange. And do what pastuch did and bend the metal frame straight.


Just received mine today, its very nice indeed! I hope yours all gets sorted soon


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quick question, on CRU. Whats the difference between lcd standard and lcd reduced? Im ok at lcd reduced 120 but on standard I get some lines, thanks!


----------



## monkeys

The old IBM keyboards were great to use...pity they dont do updated versions anymore.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intake*
> 
> gree-sum: "BTW, if you would like to return the item and change it ,we are going to do for you at this time. Actually, we need the time to check this pictures with our manufacture, but we are going to reserve to pick it up as soon as possible after your confirmation as our service. We are looking forward your sure confirmation. Thank you. "
> 
> I'll try to ask for a partial refund too depending on the amount they offer, ill decide whether I should just keep it or get an exchange. And do what pastuch did and bend the metal frame straight.


What the heck is that supposed to mean? They'll let you return the monitor, but first they're going to send your BLB pictures to the manufacturer (QNIX) to confirm it's a defect?

Sounds like BS, there's no way QNIX who likely produces 10,000+ monitors is going to spend time analyzing someones picture of backlight bleed. Don't let Green-sum stall you, the sooner you raise the issue up through ebay, the better.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakebeefcake*
> 
> Just received mine today, its very nice indeed! I hope yours all gets sorted soon


Post a pic for member list requirement


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakebeefcake*
> 
> Quick question, on CRU. Whats the difference between lcd standard and lcd reduced? Im ok at lcd reduced 120 but on standard I get some lines, thanks!


LCD reduced moderately adjusts the timings to reduce the amount of pixel clock to the monitor. It adjusts this in a way that will be very likely to work. The method i presented earlier in the thread does this very same thing but it manually finds the best timings possible(as far as pixel clock is concerned).


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> LCD reduced moderately adjusts the timings to reduce the amount of pixel clock to the monitor. It adjusts this in a way that will be very likely to work. The method i presented earlier in the thread does this very same thing but it manually finds the best timings possible(as far as pixel clock is concerned).


Yea realized you could search the thread and so that, thanks for the info though!


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> ...............................H.....................V
> Active pixels...2560...............1440
> Front porch.......48.....................2
> Sync width.........32.....................2
> Total pixels.....2595...............1444
> (this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
> Pixel [email protected] (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
> Pixel [email protected]
> ...................................................^
> this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU.


Okay, I decided also to fool around with the settings.

At first I was getting only the test-screen mode, as other people have said.
But after spending a few minutes more with it, I managed to lower my settings as described by Spartan F8.

I do have 2 simple tips / pointers when you are going to try this for yourself!

Tip #1
If you you get the test-screen mode (you will understand when you see it), you are way, way to high (or to low in this case with your settings). The only solution for this, to solve this problem, is by hitting the reset button on your PC. You cannot get out of the test-screen mode otherwise. At least this is what I experienced.

Tip #2
If you get a distorted screen, artifacts, excessive lines, etc. This means you are getting close. And you have to tweak one setting at a time and increase / decrease the values one by one, in 1, 2 or 3 steps.

I also have few questions of my own and hopefully Spartan F8 can answer these (or anyone else for that matter).

I noticed you used the following values:
Front porch (pixels): 48 x 2
Sync width (pixels): 32 x 2

While my defaults are like this:
Front porch (pixels): 48 x 3
Sync width (pixels): 32 x 5

Decreasing both last parts to "2", didn't do much for me. It didn't decrease the Pixel clock.
On the other hand decreasing Total pixels did lower the pixel clock for me. Not much, but I managed to get it to 382 Mhz, where the original value was: 403 Mhz. My overclocked refreshrate is 100 Hz. Not much of an improvement, but an improvement nevertheless.

I took 2 screenshots (original and tweaked) and uploaded them.

*Original at 100 Hz*


*Tweaked at 100 Hz*


Hopefully it's any use to someone else.

//update

I have also created a color profile based on the above settings at 100 Hz if someone is interested. I have included it as an attachment.
This color profile was created specifically (optimised) for the above settings (as seen in the tweaked screenshot), however it should also work with default settings at 100 Hz. Calibration was done for 160 cd/m2 through xRite i1Profiler.

QX2710LED_100Hz.zip 8k .zip file


----------



## Viscid

got my X-Star from BCC. no dead pixels, only what i think is backlight bleed


----------



## Jakebeefcake




----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viscid*
> 
> got my X-Star from BCC. no dead pixels, only what i think is backlight bleed


Nice!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakebeefcake*


Nice how are you liking the colors?


----------



## combatant3219

Ordered my X-Star from BCC on Wednesday and shipped yesterday

"Thursday, July 04, 2013 Location Time
6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 21:29 "

Looking forward to getting this. I'm picking up the remaining components for my new rig tomorrow.

Does anyone have one of these mounted to a monitor arm? Any issues with the length of the power cable (from the monitor to the brick)?


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Ordered my X-Star from BCC on Wednesday and shipped yesterday
> 
> "Thursday, July 04, 2013 Location Time
> 6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 21:29 "
> 
> Looking forward to getting this. I'm picking up the reamining components for my new rig tomorrow.
> 
> Does anyone have one of these mounted to a monitor arm? Any issues with the length of the power cable (from the monitor to the brick)?


Mines also currently at that stage and left at the exact same time (21:29).

Is yours headed to aus?


----------



## Viscid

I'm gonna try to do the Tape Mod fix for backlight bleeding, and also fix for the Panel Play issue which I also seem to have. Is there anything else I could do, or more ways to fix the bleed? How about a way to reduce brightness for the power LED?


----------



## combatant3219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Mines also currently at that stage and left at the exact same time (21:29).
> 
> Is yours headed to aus?


Sure is. I'm in Melbourne. You?


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Sure is. I'm in Melbourne. You?


Yup Melbourne here as well. Hopefully customs won't take too long!


----------



## combatant3219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Yup Melbourne here as well. Hopefully customs won't take too long!


What a coincidence!

I hope not. I'll be putting my rig together over the weekend so my fingers are crossed the monitor will arrive on Monday.









Update:

Friday, July 05, 2013 Location Time
7 Customs status updated SYDNEY - AUSTRALIA 14:27


----------



## das1604

I'm in Brisbane and the shipping was super quick too. Ordered late (10pm) Monday and it arrived Thursday midday.


----------



## Apinchof

Qnix QX2710

I'm happy to say that my qx2710 came in the mail today. DHL actually came on Monday to Deliver but I was asleep, First time they came around 11 am, second time around they came 9:01am, thankfully I was awake enough to realize the bell was ringing(apartment) and ran downstairs and barely managed to wave the DHL man over. Shipping is very good otherwise, 2 days after the seller packaged and gave it to DHL. DHL tracking is also very informative.

Anyways the monitors here and I can't wait to test it out.
Unfortunately I can't do anything with it as of now, I've been using the integrated gpu on my CPU, because I've been waiting for the funds to upgrade my GPU. 7970 is coming today hopefully soon.

The monitor is very big

Monitor


27 in vs 21.5(22in) Side to SIde


27in vs 21.5(22in) parrallel view


----------



## wntrsnowg

Nice speakers. Polk RTI6?


----------



## Apinchof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Nice speakers. Polk RTI6?


Close, very close they are actually the RTi4s

They're almost the same speakers from what I've heard, just less range on the lows. That's what the upcoming subwoofer will be for though
They were on sale on Amazon used for $170, new is 30 dollars more but at that point I was already past my spending limit.

Very glad I got them instead of the Desktop speakers I was going for before, a lot more expensive especially with the amplifier. But they sound great.

Very nice fit with the new monitor, I can't wait to try them together.
Got to wait on FedEx though

I'm slowly upgrading my computer, spent 500 dollars initially, Now that I have more money I'm getting the parts that I want.
Monitor= Done
Graphics Card= Done
Sound= Done
Next up i3 to i5 or i7 depending on how gaming goes.


----------



## hodgempls

Well my qnix matte screen arrived from green_sum today. Ordered it on Monday. So far there appear to be no dead pixels and BLB is minimal. My only complaint is that the screen is not centered in the bezel. I am not sure if that is an easy fix or not......


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hodgempls*
> 
> Well my qnix matte screen arrived from green_sum today. Ordered it on Monday. So far there appear to be no dead pixels and BLB is minimal. My only complaint is that the screen is not centered in the bezel. I am not sure if that is an easy fix or not......


Thats called Panel Play - check the first page for the fix. Basically gotta open it up and add some spacing between the standoff things and the monitor so it sits up higher. Might as well do the "Tape mod" if you do that to completely get rid of the BLB.


----------



## hodgempls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Thats called Panel Play - check the first page for the fix. Basically gotta open it up and add some spacing between the standoff things and the monitor so it sits up higher. Might as well do the "Tape mod" if you do that to completely get rid of the BLB.


Thanks for the tip. I will have to do that tonight as I also have to take the bezel off to add my new stand.


----------



## David164v8

Does anyone have a size comparison of 1920x1080 (or 1680x1050) vs 2560x1400, not the screen size but the actual resolutions overlayed on each other? Just wanna see how big this will be in comparison to my current display.


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Yea, the colours are great, overclocks very nicely. But as it got darker in the day i have noticed very obvious blb at the bottom just on the left side of the logo, and very mild in the top right corner. Other than that impressed. Been playing some far cry 3 everything on low getting 100 fps plus with 120hz is heaven! Low doesnt even look that bad, i though it would be like tetris! On ultra i get 35 fps, im much happier at a lower setting with butter smooth frame rates. So in a nutshell happy, but will try to do some fixes on the blb tommorow!


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Nice!
> Nice how are you liking the colors?


Yea, the colours are great, overclocks very nicely. But as it got darker in the day i have noticed very obvious blb at the bottom just on the left side of the logo, and very mild in the top right corner. Other than that impressed. Been playing some far cry 3 everything on low getting 100 fps plus with 120hz is heaven! Low doesnt even look that bad, i though it would be like tetris! On ultra i get 35 fps, im much happier at a lower setting with butter smooth frame rates. So in a nutshell happy, but will try to do some fixes on the blb tommorow!


----------



## pLuhhmm

Mine is waiting for me at home!!!!!!!!!!!! Only 4 and half hours til I'm home..............................

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Does anyone have a size comparison of 1920x1080 (or 1680x1050) vs 2560x1400, not the screen size but the actual resolutions overlayed on each other? Just wanna see how big this will be in comparison to my current display.


I'll try and remember when I get home. I have a 27in 1080p atm.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Does anyone have a size comparison of 1920x1080 (or 1680x1050) vs 2560x1400, not the screen size but the actual resolutions overlayed on each other? Just wanna see how big this will be in comparison to my current display.


This was my CrossOver vs my old 24" Asus VS248H (1440 vs 1080)


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> What a coincidence!
> 
> I hope not. I'll be putting my rig together over the weekend so my fingers are crossed the monitor will arrive on Monday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update:
> 
> Friday, July 05, 2013 Location Time
> 7 Customs status updated SYDNEY - AUSTRALIA 14:27


Haha indeed it is! I just checked DHL and mine got "Processed at SYDNEY - AUSTRALIA" today (saturday)... not sure if its DHL being open on Saturdays or just customs, can someone confirm?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iambazerkus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Nice speakers. Polk RTI6?
> 
> 
> 
> Close, very close they are actually the RTi4s
> 
> They're almost the same speakers from what I've heard, just less range on the lows. That's what the upcoming subwoofer will be for though
> They were on sale on Amazon used for $170, new is 30 dollars more but at that point I was already past my spending limit.
> 
> Very glad I got them instead of the Desktop speakers I was going for before, a lot more expensive especially with the amplifier. But they sound great.
> 
> Very nice fit with the new monitor, I can't wait to try them together.
> Got to wait on FedEx though
> 
> I'm slowly upgrading my computer, spent 500 dollars initially, Now that I have more money I'm getting the parts that I want.
> Monitor= Done
> Graphics Card= Done
> Sound= Done
> Next up i3 to i5 or i7 depending on how gaming goes.
Click to expand...

yes they looked a little small for the rti6. i owned the rti6 for a while, they were amazing. the power they can handle when bi-amped is incredible. originally got them computer speakers but they were a little big haha.

and I do the same. start cheap and continually upgrade.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> This was my CrossOver vs my old 24" Asus VS248H (1440 vs 1080)


Looks like a iPhone next to a GS4..


----------



## Sunrex

Is it normal for your eyes to strain switching from 60Hz to 120Hz the first time?


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunrex*
> 
> Is it normal for your eyes to strain switching from 60Hz to 120Hz the first time?


On these screens OCing to 120hz makes them dimmer, which may cause the eye strain. Have you tried downloading/installing the 120hz colour profiles from the OP? It (should) compensate for the dimming effect.


----------



## 176355

Got my new monitor! It is better than I imagined, big thanks to all of you who convinced me to go with Qnix instead of Dell or Asus. Very minor blb from bottom right corner and no dead\stuck pixels as far as I can tell. ~$350 from green-sum with the 4 year. I'm playing some Borderlands2 before I take pics and what not.


----------



## Sunrex

Yup the 120 profile helped, but it's pretty dark now. Has anyone had any luck with brighter colors at 120 - and if not, is it worth staying at 120 or is 60 decent?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunrex*
> 
> Yup the 120 profile helped, but it's pretty dark now. Has anyone had any luck with brighter colors at 120 - and if not, is it worth staying at 120 or is 60 decent?


I run it at 60hz unless I am gaming..


----------



## Slickshooter

Hey guys just got my new Qnix Matte from accessorieswhole.

It looked awesome out of the box, but then when I started to look for pixels, I found a total of 7. Only one of them, a green one and sometimes a magenta one is obvious.

But, checked out the backlight bleed and want your opinions:





Can this be fixed with the tape mod? The stuck pixels barely bother me, only an obvious green one, so is it worth exchanging? I did add the 3 year SquareTrade. Did I get a B+ panel? My onboard buttons don't seem to work either. One of them shuts off my screen but the rest just makes the blue led flash a couple times.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> Hey guys just got my new Qnix Matte from accessorieswhole.
> 
> It looked awesome out of the box, but then when I started to look for pixels, I found a total of 7. Only one of them, a green one and sometimes a magenta one is obvious.
> 
> But, checked out the backlight bleed and want your opinions:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can this be fixed with the tape mod? The stuck pixels barely bother me, only an obvious green one, so is it worth exchanging? I did add the 3 year SquareTrade. Did I get a B+ panel? My onboard buttons don't seem to work either. One of them shuts off my screen but the rest just makes the blue led flash a couple times.


Assuming that the BLB pictures were taken correctly (refer to OP for guide on how to take accurate pics of BLB), the BLB you have seems small. Not worthy of a return.

The bottom center BLB might be fixed by removing the 2 center-most screws on the back of the monitor casing.

The cable to the buttons might be loose or unplugged or messed up. If willing, try and open up the monitor casing and check. Refer to OP for many guides on how to open up the monitor


----------



## Slickshooter

I removed the two center screws underneath the VESA mounting holes, but the lightbleed is there, I can't remove the casing 'till tomorrow. Still fixable? Looks like I misunderstood the OSD buttons, they work but don't actually have an "on screen display"

This is the first time, I've bought a Korean monitor so I'm not sure what to expect. In your opinion, with 7 stuck pixels, is it worth it? or should I take a gamble for another one?


----------



## nfg89

To people who have bought this monitor, what is the HS code that is associated with it during shipping? My country has a ridiculous 30% tax on certain codes relating to Televisions which worries me.


----------



## nfg89

To people who have bought this monitor, what is the HS code that is associated with it during shipping? My country has a ridiculous 30% tax on certain codes relating to Televisions which worries me.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Alright, so I now have my monitor!

The good news:

With the stock cable I got 130Hz overclock, no faulty pixels that I can see, I think minor BLB? Not bad enough that I care. My other 27in has worse.

The bad news: The bezel isn't on right. Right where the logo is, it sticks out and this: http://i.imgur.com/iBMSQDD.jpg You can see a quarter circle on the bottom left corner of the screen and something similar but flatter above it. Also, this mofo is wobbly as hell. I thought people were exaggerating... Will most likely buy a VESA or that HP mount now.

Here's the monitor all black, you can see the minor BLB: http://i.imgur.com/AbyC4Ja.jpg


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Alright, so I now have my monitor!
> 
> The good news:
> 
> 130Hz overclock, no faulty pixels that I can see, I think minor BLB? Not bad enough that I care. My other 27in has worse.
> 
> The bad news: The bezel isn't on right. Right where the logo is, it sticks out and this: http://i.imgur.com/iBMSQDD.jpg You can see a quarter circle on the bottom left corner of the screen and something similar but flatter above it. Also, this mofo is wobbly as hell. I thought people were exaggerating... Will most likely buy a VESA or that HP mount now.
> 
> Here's the monitor all black, you can see the minor BLB: http://i.imgur.com/AbyC4Ja.jpg


You BLB look great..Thats how mine is as i was lucky..But that thing in the corner looks like you got a bent frame where the middle is pulled out and that side is pushed in creating that pressure in the corner?


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> But that thing in the corner looks like you got a bent frame where the middle is pulled out and that side is pushed in creating that pressure in the corner?


Not sure. I might open it up this weekend.

Also, does it matter that I just made a custom resolution in my Nvidia control panel and overclocked it that way? I know it's working. Windows are much smoother when I drag them around.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Does anyone have a size comparison of 1920x1080 (or 1680x1050) vs 2560x1400, not the screen size but the actual resolutions overlayed on each other? Just wanna see how big this will be in comparison to my current display.


Here is what it looks like with DotA 2 @ 1080p resolution. I always play it in borderless mode and it stayed in 1920x1080 res. So here's an idea of how much more you get desktop wise:


----------



## blu3fr0g

Hi guys, I'm so close to buying the X-STAR dp2710 MDP version (the one with multiple display and an actual OSD) and I just want to ask for advice.

Been doing research and I'm not quite sure it's worth $60-65 more than the one with just the bypass panel. I've searched this thread and couldn't find anyone who has bought one. From what I can tell, the MDP version has several attributes:

PROS:
BIOS compatibility
Support for HDMI/DVI-D/DP/D-SUB (I plan on connecting my laptop and ps3 as well)
An actual on-screen display w/ color/brightness calibration

CONS:
Slightly slower response time (8ms vs 6ms)
Price - $355 vs $290
unconfirmed overclockability

To me, it sounds like they slapped on a $20 AD-Board and enticing you to pay a premium; or am I crazy?

Also, I'm scared about their return policies and warranties (green-sum/accessorieswhole/dream-seller) as I've heard they make you pay for any type of return shipping and don't guarantee a refund or replacement for a product that arrives damaged or of very low quality. Anyone have pleasant stories of warranty fulfillment?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blu3fr0g*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm so close to buying the X-STAR dp2710 MDP version (the one with multiple display and an actual OSD) and I just want to ask for advice.
> 
> Been doing research and I'm not quite sure it's worth $60-65 more than the one with just the bypass panel. I've searched this thread and couldn't find anyone who has bought one. From what I can tell, the MDP version has several attributes:
> 
> PROS:
> BIOS compatibility
> Support for HDMI/DVI-D/DP/D-SUB (I plan on connecting my laptop and ps3 as well)
> An actual on-screen display w/ color/brightness calibration
> 
> CONS:
> Slightly slower response time (8ms vs 6ms)
> Price - $355 vs $290
> unconfirmed overclockability
> 
> To me, it sounds like they slapped on a $20 AD-Board and enticing you to pay a premium; or am I crazy?
> 
> Also, I'm scared about their return policies and warranties (green-sum/accessorieswhole/dream-seller) as I've heard they make you pay for any type of return shipping and don't guarantee a refund or replacement for a product that arrives damaged or of very low quality. Anyone have pleasant stories of warranty fulfillment?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


i was interested in buying those, but no one has confirmed the actual response time or input lag of those guys.

But make sure to read the pixel warranty stuff on each seller's page carefully. For example, accessorieswhole has a 3 stuck pixel policy for their $289 version of the Qnix while they have their perfect pixel policy for the same Qnix at $349.

I bought the cheaper one from accessorieswhole and got a panel with seven, that's right 7 stuck pixels, which seems to be rare among others in this thread. I opened a case, I'll let you know what happens. From searching this thread, it looks like the more recent people are satisfied with green-sum and weary of dream-seller because he's selling panels that are rated B+ or less which means they have more problems or whatever. Though, dream-seller seems to be promising no stuck pixels for cheaper prices now, so best bet is to contact him.


----------



## UNOE

I thought the ones with OSD didn't do 120hz.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I thought the ones with OSD didn't do 120hz.


As far as I know they don't..


----------



## blu3fr0g

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> i was interested in buying those, but no one has confirmed the actual response time or input lag of those guys.
> 
> But make sure to read the pixel warranty stuff on each seller's page carefully. For example, accessorieswhole has a 3 stuck pixel policy for their $289 version of the Qnix while they have their perfect pixel policy for the same Qnix at $349.
> 
> I bought the cheaper one from accessorieswhole and got a panel with seven, that's right 7 stuck pixels, which seems to be rare among others in this thread. I opened a case, I'll let you know what happens. From searching this thread, it looks like the more recent people are satisfied with green-sum and weary of dream-seller because he's selling panels that are rated B+ or less which means they have more problems or whatever. Though, dream-seller seems to be promising no stuck pixels for cheaper prices now, so best bet is to contact him.


Thanks! I'm probably going to wait until I hear how your case turns out before I buy. Also, have you tried various methods of getting rid of stuck pixels (gently massaging the area/flashing RGB colors)?


----------



## Slickshooter

Yup, flashing my screen for the next five hours, then gonna rub the spots with a q-tip. Let you know results tomorrow and seller's response as soon as he replies.


----------



## blu3fr0g

I read that in the Catleap thread that they were able to overlock multiple input boards to 90Hz+, just not 120Hz. Idk about the QNIX/X-STAR ones. Honestly, the overclockability doesn't matter too much to me.


----------



## Flaunt

Hey All.

I started looking at this thread about a week ago randomly, and decided to jump in on the fun.

I bought a Qnix 2710 from IPSLEDMONITORS.com, and received it in the mail today. Interestingly it still shipped from Korea, but all of the support and customer service is local (as in California).

Fortunately for me, I received a flawless screen so it seems. No backlight bleed that I can tell, and I can overclock to 120 Hz stable. I have yet to try past that.

This screen is amazing. Excellent colors, bright, gigantic... Im very happy.

I payed a bit of a premium (330 + tax and shipping), but I was more comfortable buying from a local seller. Of note, they offer a 3 year warranty through their own website that includes a one time full swap out with a same or newer monitor if the one you bought craps out within 3 years. The warranty is an additional 50. (its is NOT through square trade).

I will post pictures/verify tomorrow.


----------



## Slickshooter

Oh man! Was looking for that site before buying off ebay. Still, my price came out to be $50 cheaper with squaretrade. Idk if it was worth the incoming hassle. Site looks like an awesome compromise, especially if you don't live in Cali.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flaunt*
> 
> Hey All.
> 
> I started looking at this thread about a week ago randomly, and decided to jump in on the fun.
> 
> I bought a Qnix 2710 from IPSLEDMONITORS.com, and received it in the mail today. Interestingly it still shipped from Korea, but all of the support and customer service is local (as in California).
> 
> Fortunately for me, I received a flawless screen so it seems. No backlight bleed that I can tell, and I can overclock to 120 Hz stable. I have yet to try past that.
> 
> This screen is amazing. Excellent colors, bright, gigantic... Im very happy.
> 
> I payed a bit of a premium (330 + tax and shipping), but I was more comfortable buying from a local seller. Of note, they offer a 3 year warranty through their own website that includes a one time full swap out with a same or newer monitor if the one you bought craps out within 3 years. The warranty is an additional 50. (its is NOT through square trade).
> 
> I will post pictures/verify tomorrow.


Thank you for sharing this..There are alot of people who want one of these but would feel safer with some kind of warranty..


----------



## wntrsnowg

I am skeptical of that website. In 3 years it might not exist anymore and the warranty will be useless. For anyone who is unwilling to take any risk or who is sketched out, Squaretrade is definitely more reliable imo


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I am skeptical of that website. In 3 years it might not exist anymore and the warranty will be useless. For anyone who is unwilling to take any risk or who is sketched out, Squaretrade is definitely more reliable imo


I think you can probably add squaretrade to a monitor you buy from them. Their 30-day policy/warranty may be great just to get that initial perfect screen.


----------



## Moragg

Here's my application at last:



And here're images of my stand, as the plastic stub on the X-Star can just be pulled out:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Which afaik is the only real difference between this and the Qnix.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flaunt*
> 
> Hey All.
> 
> I started looking at this thread about a week ago randomly, and decided to jump in on the fun.
> 
> I bought a Qnix 2710 from IPSLEDMONITORS.com, and received it in the mail today. Interestingly it still shipped from Korea, but all of the support and customer service is local (as in California).
> 
> Fortunately for me, I received a flawless screen so it seems. No backlight bleed that I can tell, and I can overclock to 120 Hz stable. I have yet to try past that.
> 
> This screen is amazing. Excellent colors, bright, gigantic... Im very happy.
> 
> I payed a bit of a premium (330 + tax and shipping), but I was more comfortable buying from a local seller. Of note, they offer a 3 year warranty through their own website that includes a one time full swap out with a same or newer monitor if the one you bought craps out within 3 years. The warranty is an additional 50. (its is NOT through square trade).
> 
> I will post pictures/verify tomorrow.


That's awesome that it worked out for you. My X-Star arrived perfect from them too. At first it seemed like I was paying more, but if you consider that most of the ebay sellers tack on an extra $50 for "pixel perfect" monitors, I really didn't. That and people who have been getting dead pixels on "pixel perfect" orders are simply being offered $5 refunds for each pixel, it seems clear that you cannot return a monitor back to Korea even if it has a pixel or serious backlight defect. I'm pretty much set on ordering my second X-star from them, just waiting on my paycheck next week


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I don't see the difference offhand nor understand how the stand stub in the X-Star is diff and can thus be pulled out...

As for these websites like IPSLED I wonder if this is like another Overlord (which was just some dude in Cali who saw a business opportunity afaik) or if these Korean manufacturers or sellers have set up their own 'local' distributors overseas...

And you can get a relatively perfect display without a PP premium like I did so you guys _did_ pay a bit more all in all but this def looks like a really good option. I doubt they will take back for BLB bleed where the Koreans will not though. If I am wrong then wow and I am surprised they aren't like $400.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I don't see the difference offhand nor understand how the stand stub in the X-Star is diff and can thus be pulled out...
> .


I've been told that the clear plastic stub is screwed into the QNIX. And as you can see on the X-Star that isn't the case.


----------



## dilloway

Their return policy states you can return the monitor within 30-days for *any or no reason at all* so that would have to cover BLB. Seems like they're trying to match the monoprice/microcenter return policy. I don't doubt you can get a perfect monitor off ebay, many have. It's just what happens when you don't, it sounds like a complete hassle to get anywhere with the korean sellers if you're unfortunate enough to get a defective monitor.

edit: I agree if you don't spend the extra money on PP from ebay than you're getting a considerable deal. But if you're more concerned with dead pixels and already willing to spend extra money on that then ipsledmonitors seems like a better option. At least for me it did.


----------



## Slickshooter

Okay, I just recently set my refresh rate to 96hz using custom resolution in Nvidia control panel for about half an hour and changed the color profile. I now have horrible burn-in. I've read people say that it goes away, but I'm a little worried. Will it go away? And does this mean I can't overclock?


----------



## blu3fr0g

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> Okay, I just recently set my refresh rate to 96hz using custom resolution in Nvidia control panel for about half an hour and changed the color profile. I now have horrible burn-in. I've read people say that it goes away, but I'm a little worried. Will it go away? And does this mean I can't overclock?


Burn-in should go away with time and can be sped up with the same color flashing you did to fix stuck pixels, speaking of which, how did that go?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I've been told that the clear plastic stub is screwed into the QNIX. And as you can see on the X-Star that isn't the case.


Ah...yes it is and that would be it (removed mine from QNIX). Guess I am a bit surprised that it can support the X-Star without screws.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> Their return policy states you can return the monitor within 30-days for *any or no reason at all* so that would have to cover BLB. Seems like they're trying to match the monoprice/microcenter return policy. I don't doubt you can get a perfect monitor off ebay, many have. It's just what happens when you don't, it sounds like a complete hassle to get anywhere with the korean sellers if you're unfortunate enough to get a defective monitor.
> 
> edit: I agree if you don't spend the extra money on PP from ebay than you're getting a considerable deal. But if you're more concerned with dead pixels and already willing to spend extra money on that then ipsledmonitors seems like a better option. At least for me it did.


Wow not bad at all and pretty good price considering. Yeah I spent $317 and do have a perfect panel but some bleed (which is the housings fault).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> Okay, I just recently set my refresh rate to 96hz using custom resolution in Nvidia control panel for about half an hour and changed the color profile. I now have horrible burn-in. I've read people say that it goes away, but I'm a little worried. Will it go away? And does this mean I can't overclock?


Yeah as said it will go away so this doesn't seem to be 'burn-in' in the traditional sense. But they all don't do it and idk if that is a red flag or not...


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blu3fr0g*
> 
> Burn-in should go away with time and can be sped up with the same color flashing you did to fix stuck pixels, speaking of which, how did that go?


Yeah but only 30 min of just 96hz and some burn-in? That's kind of scary. More reason to exchange/return it. Unless, doing it the Nvidia way causes problems?

Tried the RGB pixel flashing for around six hours or so and no difference. Also tried tapping repeatedly with a q-tip, all seven pixels still stuck. It is interesting though, I can only see them under black.


----------



## Spartan F8

There was a nifty little app someone posted a while back for changing color profiles on the fly in windows and i cannot find it. It essentially listed all your ICM or ICC profiles in a little window and when you clicked on them they would instantly apply. I have slaved over the search engine here and can't seem to find it because of the common terms for it.

Can anyone help me out here?


----------



## Jakebeefcake

Your blb is very very minimal, i see no issue with that!


----------



## pLuhhmm

I have mine overclocked to 120Hz in Nvidia control panel. I didn't do any of the patching steps, just normally overclocked it. I know it works for the desktop and video, but I want to know if it stays overclocked in games. Anyone know?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There was a nifty little app someone posted a while back for changing color profiles on the fly in windows and i cannot find it. It essentially listed all your ICM or ICC profiles in a little window and when you clicked on them they would instantly apply. I have slaved over the search engine here and can't seem to find it because of the common terms for it.
> 
> Can anyone help me out here?


I use dispcalGUI: http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/

Edit: you'll need to install argyllcms: http://argyllcms.com/downloadwin.html and then point dispcalGUI to the argyll binaries.
dispcalGUI has a very good installation guide on their website, just follow that.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I use dispcalGUI: http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/
> 
> Edit: you'll need to install argyllcms: http://argyllcms.com/downloadwin.html and then point dispcalGUI to the argyll binaries.
> dispcalGUI has a very good installation guide on their website, just follow that.


That is not it and i did find this one during my search. The other app was much more low profile/overhead. I don't even think i had to install it.

I really just want to be able to hot swap between ICC and ICM profiles. It was something like "ICC display profiler" or something but i can't find it to save my life.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> That is not it and i did find this one during my search. The other app was much more low profile/overhead. I don't even think i had to install it.
> 
> I really just want to be able to hot swap between ICC and ICM profiles. It was something like "ICC display profiler" or something but i can't find it to save my life.


Try this:
Install all the ICC profiles you want under recognisable names.
Control Panel>Color Management
Add all the profiles you want. To swap between them select the one you want then click "Set as Default Profile"

No app required at all









Edit: found the app you were after: http://www.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?ID=757&Action=support&SoftwareID=539

Profiles still need to be installed though.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Try this:
> Install all the ICC profiles you want under recognisable names.
> Control Panel>Color Management
> Add all the profiles you want. To swap between them select the one you want then click "Set as Default Profile"
> 
> No app required at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: found the app you were after: http://www.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?ID=757&Action=support&SoftwareID=539
> 
> Profiles still need to be installed though.


Heck Yeah! that is it thank you sir.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> I have mine overclocked to 120Hz in Nvidia control panel. I didn't do any of the patching steps, just normally overclocked it. I know it works for the desktop and video, but I want to know if it stays overclocked in games. Anyone know?


Okay, so I went ahead and did the patching and what not from the TUT, but I saw no difference so I reverted it back to the Nvidia CP OC.


----------



## Slickshooter

So do the majority of you guys not experience IR/ Burn-in? I don't see how I can run higher frame rates when I burn in in only 20 minutes.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> So do the majority of you guys not experience IR/ Burn-in? I don't see how I can run higher frame rates when I burn in in only 20 minutes.


There has been some of us who experienced burn in ofter and then after a while the burn in was not as bad so there may be a time factor here. Also you are just setting it to 120hz in the NVCP which does not optimize the timings at all. I was able to get WAY further in overclocking when i used at least CRU with LCD reduced and then even farther when using custom timings. If you stick with stock it is likely it puts higher strain on the monitor. This is apparent from the resulting pixel clock. With stock timings in the NVCP @120hz i believe it is around 500mhz. This pushes the PCB and cable hard. If you optimize the settings i have gotten it as low as 450mhz. That 50mhz is a big difference in terms of the strain the overclock puts on the display process. This is overclocking it is going to take some effort and reading. There is always the possibility your monitor is not a good overclocker but you need to play around before confirming that. Just like overclocking a CPU some will be more stable than others.

EDIT: This also can be related to having the brightness too high @ overclock speeds. General consensus has been about 12 clicks from "all the way down" (which is also the level most of our ICC color profiles are set at)


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> So do the majority of you guys not experience IR/ Burn-in? I don't see how I can run higher frame rates when I burn in in only 20 minutes.


I don't know about majority but definitely not everyone experiences burn-in, it depends on the panel quality which I think vary between B+ and A- quality. I for example get no burn-in at any refresh rate and I remember way back in the thread that someone was only noticing the burn-in when they were looking at a full brown colored screen, but I guess each panel gets some weird symptoms whether it be something as easily fixable as backlight bleed or something as bad as uniformity problems that caused Samsung to bin the panels but it always comes down to luck with these panels which isn't a good thing but if you do get a really good one its very rewarding especially for the price.

Edit: I have also read way back in the thread that the burn-in can get better over time but I personally cant attest to that as I never had any problems from the start.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Sorry if this has been asked but how do you remove the Test Mode watermark?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> Sorry if this has been asked but how do you remove the Test Mode watermark?


Download, install, then run this - http://deepxw.blogspot.com/2008/12/remove-watermark-v03-build-20081210.html


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Download, install, then run this - http://deepxw.blogspot.com/2008/12/remove-watermark-v03-build-20081210.html


I'm pretty sure I already know the answer, but do you need to do all that stuff in the OC tut to actually OC your monitor? I don't have to. Am I missing something?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I already know the answer, but do you need to do all that stuff in the OC tut to actually OC your monitor? I don't have to. Am I missing something?


I've seen some folks just use the nVidia control panel to do it...but I used the method in the original post.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Games may not be aware to use higher refresh just using the CP. Test something easier to run and see if it caps at the 96 or 120 now.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Games may not be aware to use higher refresh just using the CP. Test something easier to run and see if it caps at the 96 or 120 now.


The method I wrote about earlier in the thread helps almost all games get detected.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I already know the answer, but do you need to do all that stuff in the OC tut to actually OC your monitor? I don't have to. Am I missing something?


You don't need test mode for Nvidia, so disregard that.


----------



## ABO-YASER

i'm planing on buying one of these korean monitors
but i'm concerned about the response times
does it really affect the gameplay?
and is the qnix really 6ms?
if that is right then i am better of getting the qnix


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABO-YASER*
> 
> i'm planing on buying one of these korean monitors
> but i'm concerned about the response times
> does it really affect the gameplay?
> and is the qnix really 6ms?
> if that is right then i am better of getting the qnix


I went from a 2ms 1080p TN panel to this Qnix. I notice no difference in pixel response time.. And when it's OCed the input is Alot less then my old TN panel.. I play BF3 and it looks and plays amazing on this monitor..


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I went from a 2ms 1080p TN panel to this Qnix. I notice no difference in pixel response time.. And when it's OCed the input is Alot less then my old TN panel.. I play BF3 and it looks and plays amazing on this monitor..


It's been tested, the only thing you'll really notice a difference with is LightBoost.


----------



## air tree

i'm going to order the QNIX QX2710 in a few months for my pc build and onegun up there ^ linked me to a very nice website in the US that sells these with a warranty http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm so i'm quite glad he linked me to them instead of ebay haha. 379$ total for the monitor with a 3 year warranty.


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> i'm going to order the QNIX QX2710 in a few months for my pc build and onegun up there ^ linked me to a very nice website in the US that sells these with a warranty http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm so i'm quite glad he linked me to them instead of ebay haha. 379$ total for the monitor with a 3 year warranty.


I wouldn't get there warranty tbh. After all, they are just "two guys with a passion for IPS monitors", who knows how long they'll be in business. Perhaps I'm being too cynical, but I would get Squaretrade instead.


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> I wouldn't get there warranty tbh. After all, they are just "two guys with a passion for IPS monitors", who knows how long they'll be in business. Perhaps I'm being too cynical, but I would get Squaretrade instead.


i just like this site since even for the first 30 days they will replace it if it has any dead pixels.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah Overlord is just some guy in a garage too. Capitalism baby!







But yeah, idk about 3 years from now, but this initial 30-day return period "for anything" is definitely worth a premium (though maybe not $50+ idk)..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> The method I wrote about earlier in the thread helps almost all games get detected.
> You don't need test mode for Nvidia, so disregard that.


Cool except I doubt anyone can find it at this point. I guess hitting "all posts" on your profile might be one way...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah Overlord is just some guy in a garage too. Capitalism baby!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, idk about 3 years from now, but this initial 30-day return period "for anything" is definitely worth a premium (though maybe not $50+ idk)..
> Cool except I doubt anyone can find it at this point. I guess hitting "all posts" on your profile might be one way...


I found it in about 10minutes searching with "test mode" and his profile name in just this thread.


----------



## kevinsbane

One big difference with overlord Is that the overlord guy sources his own monitors. Ipsledmonitors seems to be a reseller.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> i'm going to order the QNIX QX2710 in a few months for my pc build and onegun up there ^ linked me to a very nice website in the US that sells these with a warranty http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm so i'm quite glad he linked me to them instead of ebay haha. 379$ total for the monitor with a 3 year warranty.


As was said previously, it's best to buy the long-term warranty with SquareTrade than this site - it's much safer.

ST is much more likely to be around 3 years from now. The initial warranty is very good, but the point of a warranty is to minimise the chance of losing money - and ST is the best way to do that.

Not to mention you can get ST vouchers which reduce the cost to $35, making it even better value.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> As was said previously, it's best to buy the long-term warranty with SquareTrade than this site - it's much safer.
> 
> ST is much more likely to be around 3 years from now. The initial warranty is very good, but the point of a warranty is to minimise the chance of losing money - and ST is the best way to do that.
> 
> Not to mention you can get ST vouchers which reduce the cost to $35, making it even better value.


+1 anyone who can get a ST warranty should. It is a 300 dollar monitor that has the potential quality of a 1000 dollar monitor you can afford to bit the bullet on 35-50 bucks to ensure it.


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> +1 anyone who can get a ST warranty should. It is a 300 dollar monitor that has the potential quality of a 1000 dollar monitor you can afford to bit the bullet on 35-50 bucks to ensure it.


does ST cover dead pixels? or is it just based on what seller you're buying from?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> does ST cover dead pixels? or is it just based on what seller you're buying from?


Here is the information page

http://pages.ebay.com/warranty/squaretrade.html


----------



## JAM3S121

I am really considering one of these monitors, I am just curious how easy is it to change out the stand? I have a samsung monitor with a really cheap filmsy stand and hate it. Are these pls monitors suitable for gaming in games such as bf4?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I am really considering one of these monitors, I am just curious how easy is it to change out the stand? I have a samsung monitor with a really cheap filmsy stand and hate it. Are these pls monitors suitable for gaming in games such as bf4?


You have to open the monitor up and lift the panel a little to get a screw driver in there to take the bottom mount off unless you just want to mount it with the stubble remaining on the monitor. (Example in this post)
I expected to be able to take it off without opening it but it was not the case.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> i'm going to order the QNIX QX2710 in a few months for my pc build and onegun up there ^ linked me to a very nice website in the US that sells these with a warranty http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm so i'm quite glad he linked me to them instead of ebay haha. 379$ total for the monitor with a 3 year warranty.


Hey bud welcome to OC.net..








And know one know where these guys will be in 3 years but the initial 30day return is the main reason I would want to buy from them.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> does ST cover dead pixels? or is it just based on what seller you're buying from?


From the SquareTrade warranty:
Quote:


> What is excluded?
> Please refer to the details of the contract for the full list, but there are 5 notable exclusions to your coverage:
> Pre-existing conditions: Items sold in non-working or partially working conditions. Any issues on used or refurbished items in the first 45 days are considered to be a pre-existing condition (accidents in the first 45 days are covered, if you purchased Accidents Protection coverage).


That would imply they don't cover dead pixels if it's a non-perfect pixel monitor listing. Also most the listings mention backlight bleed is a likely "pre-existing" condition so I don't think that would be covered either. It seems like you would have to pay more for a "pixel-perfect" monitor and then get a sqr trade warranty to be covered for dead pixels. Which is kind of funny considering the ebay sellers don't even test PP monitors for dead pixels.

I'm not saying ST warranty is a bad deal, but one trick I learned from selling retail warranties is that the first year relies on the manufacturers warranty (when issues most likely arise if you bought a lemon). They pretend you're buying a 3 year warranty, but in reality it's more like a 2 year warranty that kicks in after the first year. Just something to keep in mind


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> From the SquareTrade warranty:
> That would imply they don't cover dead pixels if it's a non-perfect pixel monitor listing. Also most the listings mention backlight bleed is a likely "pre-existing" condition so I don't think that would be covered either. It seems like you would have to pay more for a "pixel-perfect" monitor and then get a sqr trade warranty to be covered for dead pixels. Which is kind of funny considering the ebay sellers don't even test PP monitors for dead pixels.
> 
> I'm not saying ST warranty is a bad deal, but one trick I learned from selling retail warranties is that the first year relies on the manufacturers warranty (when issues most likely arise if you bought a lemon). They pretend you're buying a 3 year warranty, but in reality it's more like a 2 year warranty that kicks in after the first year. Just something to keep in mind


Looks like you have pointed out a newly found reason to purchase a perfect pixel monitor.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Apparently the stock stub on the X-Star is not screwed in internally like it is on the QNIX and you can just pull it out. That is the first and only real diff between them so far and am surprised the QNIX isn't like that too. Apparently it can support the thing without screws too cause I haven't seen reports of X-Stars being more flimsy or toppling over.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Looks like you have pointed out a newly found reason to purchase a perfect pixel monitor.


Guess so if you def want ST. Makes sense they do this; especially as the manufacturers are the ones certifying the PPs. At least in theory.


----------



## 176355

I overclocked mine to 96hz(through nvcp) and don't really notice a difference. Just my two cents.
edit: It's still gorgeous.


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> From the SquareTrade warranty:
> That would imply they don't cover dead pixels if it's a non-perfect pixel monitor listing. Also most the listings mention backlight bleed is a likely "pre-existing" condition so I don't think that would be covered either. It seems like you would have to pay more for a "pixel-perfect" monitor and then get a sqr trade warranty to be covered for dead pixels. Which is kind of funny considering the ebay sellers don't even test PP monitors for dead pixels.
> 
> I'm not saying ST warranty is a bad deal, but one trick I learned from selling retail warranties is that the first year relies on the manufacturers warranty (when issues most likely arise if you bought a lemon). They pretend you're buying a 3 year warranty, but in reality it's more like a 2 year warranty that kicks in after the first year. Just something to keep in mind


Yeah but surely the seller is not the manufacturer? So you would get those three years? And is there a way for them to know that you bought/did not buy a pixel perfect monitor? Insurance companies I dealt with in the past were too lazy to look things up







.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> I overclocked mine to 96hz(through nvcp) and don't really notice a difference. Just my two cents.
> edit: It's still gorgeous.


Well there is a few things to look for. Primarily it would be moving the mouse cursor around fast. Secondly is the fluidity in games but you do have to make sure it is indeed running at 96fps(some games don't see the higher refresh without some work). There is also the possibility your eyes are just not as sensitive to framerate and you may have to go to 120hz to see a difference. Personally i could tell a difference immediately but one of my friends cannot tell to save his life. You may also want to try the refreshrate multitool to make sure you are overclocked(there is always a chance your drivers are jacked up).

Either way sorry that you are not seeing a real difference whatever the cause.


----------



## 176355

It could be that I played like 10 hours of BL2 and just got used it as well. I would still say this monitor is orders of magnitude better than the ~5 year old Acer I was using haha, so I don't have any regrets with the purchase.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearonicMan*
> 
> It could be that I played like 10 hours of BL2 and just got used it as well. I would still say this monitor is orders of magnitude better than the ~5 year old Acer I was using haha, so I don't have any regrets with the purchase.


----------



## titcchy

Alright guys,

After jumping from 23" 60hz to 23" 120hz to 27" IPS and struggling to find a sweet spot (I love the quality of IPS but I love the fluidity of 120hz) I stumbled across these. I've just purchased the [Perfect Pixel] X-STAR DP2710 from dream-seller and I was just wondering a few questions.

Firstly, how different is 2560x1440 to 1920x1080? I'm running GTX 770 SLi's and really want to push my games in a high resolution, will it make a nice difference?

Also, the monitor I've purchased comes with a Type C power cable which I assume is the Chinese one, can anybody recommend an adapter from eBay UK I can use? How big is the dvi-d cable that comes with the monitor? I need at least 2meters since my case is far away from the monitor so I'd rather know now so if there's any problems before hand I can purchase the items before the monitor arrives.

Thanks to anybody who can answer my queries!

Edit: I just can't get over how cheap these monitors are, 2560x1440 alone should cost more than £300+ at least, nevermind including the fact they can be overclocked!


----------



## OneGun

There is a nice difference with 1440p and your two cards will run it great.. The dvi cable is about 6 feet. And the power cable that plugs In to the power brick is a standard one that you plug into your psu.. So use a extra one you have that way you don't have to use an adapter..


----------



## frankietown

i just ordered a QNIX for my dad. our deal is if it overclocks just fine, ill trade him my overlord + $50 (which is a win win for both of us so i dont have to buy the pcb)

will unstable-ness of overclocking be shown just in desktop only? or will i have to game? i ask because i sold my titan, and he doesnt have a video card good enough to game with, so ill be overclocking and just using the desktop to try it out..

im excited, it just arrived in ohio.... COME TO LA ALREADY YOU MONITOR!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankietown*
> 
> i just ordered a QNIX for my dad. our deal is if it overclocks just fine, ill trade him my overlord + $50 (which is a win win for both of us so i dont have to buy the pcb)
> 
> will unstable-ness of overclocking be shown just in desktop only? or will i have to game? i ask because i sold my titan, and he doesnt have a video card good enough to game with, so ill be overclocking and just using the desktop to try it out..
> 
> im excited, it just arrived in ohio.... COME TO LA ALREADY YOU MONITOR!


You will have it tomorrow..








At least I had mine the day after it arrived in Ohio.


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Hello everyone! Well I've been lurking in this thread for about 2 weeks now and I've finally bought a Qnix QX2710! I should get it by Wednesday!









Oh! Can anyone recommend me a good stand that has height adjustment, screen rotation, tilt, and swivel? I want to replace the one that comes with the monitor.

Thanks!


----------



## JAM3S121

I asked earlier but if you enjoy FPS games or games like Dota 2 should I expect any lag or latency with a qnix?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I asked earlier but if you enjoy FPS games or games like Dota 2 should I expect any lag or latency with a qnix?


This has been gone over many times search "scaler" in this thread and you will find more than enough info.


----------



## JAM3S121

I mean is the reponse time fast enough?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I mean is the reponse time fast enough?


"fast enough" is relative to the individual. What are you comparing it to? If you want to know about game performance i "believe" and many others believe it is fine. With the lack of a scaler and 120hz it is better than most. Please search for more information since we are bloating the forum with repeat questions.


----------



## combatant3219

Well my wife just let me know mt X-Star arrived. I'm at work. Doh!

Looking forward to getting home and taking a look. Still need to assemble the rest of my build too though.


----------



## sluggy

Hi,

I'm looking to pull the trigger on an X-Star. Trying to find the most budget option. Choosing between 3 options for a shipment to Canada:

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/
http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/
Someone on ebay
Anyone have experience with http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/? I am leaning towards them, but they charge for shipping and charge an additional premium of $19.95 for using USPS. This helps in avoiding the FedEx and UPS issues. Not sure if this is an option for the other two purchasing options. Anyone else have any thoughts for purchasing for someone in Canada?


----------



## dilloway

sluggy, so far, both Flaunt and myself have had really good experiences with ipsledmonitors.com. 2560x1440monitor.com seems to be a Korean ebay-er's attempt at a english site (phone # and address are both Korean). I'd say if you're in anyway concerned with being able to return a monitor then stick with ipsledmonitors.com. If you want to save some money then stick with ebay, but I would avoid paying more for pixel perfect because they apparently charge more without doing any tests.

No idea on the fedex vs USPS for Canada (I'm in the US). http://www.dutycalculator.com/ is a tool you could use to figure out the customs. Seems like you're going to spend more either way.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> Hello everyone! Well I've been lurking in this thread for about 2 weeks now and I've finally bought a Qnix QX2710! I should get it by Wednesday!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh! Can anyone recommend me a good stand that has height adjustment, screen rotation, tilt, and swivel? I want to replace the one that comes with the monitor.
> 
> Thanks!


check this out
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3720_30#post_20298237

Also, there is a gateway stand that is also recommended but costs more ($30) and looks worse IMO.


----------



## Spartan F8

For anyone having trouble getting games to accept 120hz installing the catleap driver can help, Also i noticed this was not very clearly pointed out in the thread so i have posted this picture to make it crystal clear. This "preferred refresh rate" option can bypass any games with a built in cap(AKA Shadowrun). Setting it to highest available will make the game shoot to the "highest" so if you have any test refresh rates setup for benchmarking the display(153hz for me) it will go that high so be careful.

Hope this helps


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 
> 
> For anyone having trouble getting games to accept 120hz installing the catleap driver can help, Also i noticed this was not very clearly pointed out in the thread so i have posted this picture to make it crystal clear. This preferred refresh rate option can bypass any games with a built in cap(AKA Shadowrun). Setting it to highest available will make the game shoot to the "highest" so if you have any test refresh rates setup for benchmarking the display(153hz for me) it will go that high so be careful.
> 
> Hope this helps


Thank you sir...


----------



## air tree

So out of the the monitors under 400$ on http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ what one would you get, that is the best quality for this type of monitor? and people with experiance with that site should i just skip their 3 year warranty or is it worth it?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> So out of the the monitors under 400$ on http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ what one would you get, that is the best quality for this type of monitor? and people with experiance with that site should i just skip their 3 year warranty or is it worth it?


Do you want to be able to OC?Cause there are only a few under $400 that do that..The Qnix and Xstar..Do you care if it is PLS or IPS?Do you want Matte or glossy?


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Do you want to be able to OC?Cause there are only a few under $400 that do that..The Qnix and Xstar..Do you care if it is PLS or IPS?Do you want Matte or glossy?


i want a matte monitor and i want to OC it and i don't know enough about the differences of PLS VS IPS, but from a standpoint of not knowing it doesn't matter to me.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> i want a matte monitor and i want to OC it and i don't know enough about the differences of PLS VS IPS, but from a standpoint of not knowing it doesn't matter to me.


Ips is LG and PLS os samsungs ips. They are pretty much the same thing..But some people say PLS has blacker blacks . but it could be a myth lol..So your 2 choices are the Matte qnix or the Xstar. They are basically the same monitor they both OC and both use the same panel. The only real difference is the clear monitor stand can be removed easier on the Xstar.I went with Qnix because more people on this site have them . So you either want this one
http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm

Or this one
http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/X-Star-DP2710-Monitor-p/xst1.htm

And as far as the warranty goes we don't know yet cause no one has had to use it yet . Plus some member made a good point as who knows if they will still be around for 3 years..You could just buy the monitor and add a square trade warranty afterwards..
I hope the links worked as I did this from my phone sorry..


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ips is LG and PLS os samsungs ips. They are pretty much the same thing..But some people say PLS has blacker blacks . but it could be a myth lol..So your 2 choices are the Matte qnix or the Xstar. They are basically the same monitor they both OC and both use the same panel. The only real difference is the clear monitor stand can be removed easier on the Xstar.I went with Qnix because more people on this site have them . So you either want this one
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm
> 
> Or this one
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/X-Star-DP2710-Monitor-p/xst1.htm
> 
> And as far as the warranty goes we don't know yet cause no one has had to use it yet . Plus some member made a good point as who knows if they will still be around for 3 years..You could just buy the monitor and add a square trade warranty afterwards..
> I hope the links worked as I did this from my phone sorry..


i have never used square trade warranty, how does it work? if i where to purchase the monitor off of the website and get a square trade warranty what would it cover?


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> sluggy, so far, both Flaunt and myself have had really good experiences with ipsledmonitors.com. 2560x1440monitor.com seems to be a Korean ebay-er's attempt at a english site (phone # and address are both Korean). I'd say if you're in anyway concerned with being able to return a monitor then stick with ipsledmonitors.com. If you want to save some money then stick with ebay, but I would avoid paying more for pixel perfect because they apparently charge more without doing any tests.
> 
> No idea on the fedex vs USPS for Canada (I'm in the US). http://www.dutycalculator.com/ is a tool you could use to figure out the customs. Seems like you're going to spend more either way.


2560x1440monitor.com was one of the first site I came across , asked a question and never got a reply....almost bought a 2560x1600 and or 2560x1440 from them.


----------



## Phantasma

A long time lurker of OCN, and all the talk about these monitors made me splurge on one. Non-perfect pixel matte for $289 + ~$20 duty to Japan. No dead pixels, instantly OC'd to 120hz, and looks great with the icc cor35vet posted.


Quite nice.........BUT











My galaxy s3 downplays the actual amount of back light bleed but as I use this monitor in a dark room AND have dark desktop wallpapers, it's a big issue. It's not even as bad as other people's, but it's still annoying. I wanna take this thing apart but I'd have absolutely NO idea what I'm doing and things would...break...for lack of a more descriptive word.


----------



## ABO-YASER

what does light boost mean?


----------



## air tree

what are the chances that you will get a good amount of backlight bleeding? on the qnix QX2710?


----------



## titcchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> what are the chances that you will get a good amount of backlight bleeding? on the qnix QX2710?


From what I've seen, you're pretty much all but guaranteed to get backlight bleeding as most of the eBay sellers now put in the listings "There could be little backlight bleeding, we will not accept returns for this reason".

Also,

Does anybody know if I can use a standard UK kettle plug in the power block that comes with the X-Star? The same one that I use in my PSU?


----------



## Phantasma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titcchy*
> 
> Does anybody know if I can use a standard UK kettle plug in the power block that comes with the X-Star? The same one that I use in my PSU?


As long as you're using that standard three pin on the female side to go into the power brick, the male side can be whatever you want.


----------



## titcchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantasma*
> 
> As long as you're using that standard three pin on the female side to go into the power brick, the male side can be whatever you want.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Plug-to-IEC-Kettle-Lead-1m-Power-Cord-Cable-PC-Mains-/290939879086?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item43bd5e3eae - It would be this one, so I assume so, thanks!

Although a new cable, not the used one in that link, lol.


----------



## air tree

i was reading about a fix for the back light bleed and i was wondering if anyone has done it and how hard is it?


----------



## titcchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> i was reading about a fix for the back light bleed and i was wondering if anyone has done it and how hard is it?


If you check the first page, there is a guide on one of the drop downs!


----------



## sluggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> sluggy, so far, both Flaunt and myself have had really good experiences with ipsledmonitors.com. 2560x1440monitor.com seems to be a Korean ebay-er's attempt at a english site (phone # and address are both Korean). I'd say if you're in anyway concerned with being able to return a monitor then stick with ipsledmonitors.com. If you want to save some money then stick with ebay, but I would avoid paying more for pixel perfect because they apparently charge more without doing any tests.
> 
> No idea on the fedex vs USPS for Canada (I'm in the US). http://www.dutycalculator.com/ is a tool you could use to figure out the customs. Seems like you're going to spend more either way.


dilloway, thanks for the response. How much did it cost you all in? Did you get Qnix or X-star? Did you get their warranty or squaretrade? I'm not even sure if we can get SquareTrade warranty in Canada.


----------



## Phantasma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titcchy*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Plug-to-IEC-Kettle-Lead-1m-Power-Cord-Cable-PC-Mains-/290939879086?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item43bd5e3eae - It would be this one, so I assume so, thanks!
> 
> Although a new cable, not the used one in that link, lol.


That'll do it!


----------



## air tree

hmm i think i would be kind of scared to take off the panel and do all that work lol, i'm afraid i will break it D:


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABO-YASER*
> 
> what does light boost mean?


C'mon dude. Google.


----------



## Killhoven

Guys I have a serious temptation to grab this item. I`m hoping some OC. Any reason why I should not?


----------



## majnu

can anyone recommend a psu for the monitor from the ebay or amazon uk store, I don't know which end (the bit which plugs into the monitor) I should look for. The psu is rated at 12v 5amps.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killhoven*
> 
> Guys I have a serious temptation to grab this item. I`m hoping some OC. Any reason why I should not?


Not offhand; looks like a pretty good offer. Max 3 dead it says (I did a max 2 from hulustar for $317 but dunno what his deal and stock is now). AW a good seller too generally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> can anyone recommend a psu for the monitor from the ebay or amazon uk store, I don't know which end (the bit which plugs into the monitor) I should look for. The psu is rated at 12v 5amps.


Why do you need? Also, a link or two would help.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sluggy*
> 
> dilloway, thanks for the response. How much did it cost you all in? Did you get Qnix or X-star? Did you get their warranty or squaretrade? I'm not even sure if we can get SquareTrade warranty in Canada.


I got the X-star DP2710 which came out to be $349 shipped. (see my older post showing that it overclocks fine, no dead pixels, no major BLB). I didn't get a squaretrade or their warranty. I'm kind of anti-warranty after selling them in retail for many years. My big thing is, I want to be able to return a product if it arrives defective or is a lemon, if it makes it through the first year then the odds are in favor that it's a good long lasting product (which Sqr Trade and all other third party warranty services know). Just my 2 cents.


----------



## dilloway

repost please delete.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah if there is an actual potential show-stopping defect or two with something like this it will generally crop up sooner rather than later.

Good point about ST too; they don't stay in business by writing a lot of claim checks. I almost bought the warranty but decided to not spend any more cash on this thing. One of the points was to do quality 1440P as cheap as possible.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Not offhand; looks like a pretty good offer. Max 3 dead it says (I did a max 2 from hulustar for $317 but dunno what his deal and stock is now). AW a good seller too generally.
> Why do you need? Also, a link or two would help.


I thought it may have been obvious, but I need it because it's faulty and does not light up on the brick and power the monitor (I tried another Kettle lead which did not work). Maybe you misunderstood the question but I am asking for links to the correct PSU, as I don't know the size of the end which plugs into the monitor, not that I will provide a link, otherwise I wouldn't have asked the question.


----------



## 187x

I just ordered my Qnix monitor and I'll be getting a 780 soon, thanks to onegun on helping me decide to go to 1440p instead of sticking with 1080, I'm excited!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh sorry. I thought you were asking which PSU to choose from stock at a particular store at amazon/ebay. You might have better luck asking the seller (maybe you have already; not familiar with your situation obviously) but maybe someone here knows...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I just ordered my Qnix monitor and I'll be getting a 780 soon, thanks to onegun on helping me decide to go to 1440p instead of sticking with 1080, I'm excited!


Good man. Chances are really good that you will soon know you made the absolute right decision.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Good man. Chances are really good that you will soon know you made the absolute right decision.


I think I did, deep down I feel better about it.


----------



## BeerPowered

Do any of these Korean Monitors do 29" 2560x1080 120hz?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 
> 
> For anyone having trouble getting games to accept 120hz installing the catleap driver can help, Also i noticed this was not very clearly pointed out in the thread so i have posted this picture to make it crystal clear. This "preferred refresh rate" option can bypass any games with a built in cap(AKA Shadowrun). Setting it to highest available will make the game shoot to the "highest" so if you have any test refresh rates setup for benchmarking the display(153hz for me) it will go that high so be careful.
> 
> Hope this helps


Weird I don't have this option


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABO-YASER*
> 
> what does light boost mean?


I believe it is a hack for Nvidia card owners for TN panels. Doesn't apply here.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 
> 
> For anyone having trouble getting games to accept 120hz installing the catleap driver can help, Also i noticed this was not very clearly pointed out in the thread so i have posted this picture to make it crystal clear. This "preferred refresh rate" option can bypass any games with a built in cap(AKA Shadowrun). Setting it to highest available will make the game shoot to the "highest" so if you have any test refresh rates setup for benchmarking the display(153hz for me) it will go that high so be careful.
> 
> Hope this helps


i don't have that option in my nvidia control panel anywhere. i'm using 320.18 drivers. how did you get it to show up?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeerPowered*
> 
> Do any of these Korean Monitors do 29" 2560x1080 120hz?


Possibly? But not the PLS which this is the club for. Just look on ebay


----------



## air tree

even though i'm a few months off from buying my monitor i'm already collecting 2560x1440 wallpapers in exitment haha


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Light Boost is an actual technology on some LG panels; the hack is to get a similar effect on other hardware I guess. I don't know a whole lot about it but NV 3D Vision 2 incorporates it on supported displays, for one real world example.
Quote:


> It is a technology unique in LG's Cinema 3D that corrects for the light lost by its polarizing shutter system across the screen.
> 
> Other active 3D systems do not have any shutter system on the screen and therefore lose no light.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I just ordered my Qnix monitor and I'll be getting a 780 soon, thanks to onegun on helping me decide to go to 1440p instead of sticking with 1080, I'm excited!


Glad I could help..


----------



## air tree

does anyone know some awesome 2560x1440 wallpapers







?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

There are wallpaper links in OP if you haven't seen those. Also any larger (more pixel) image can be scaled down by you in Paint (uncheck maintain aspect ratio).


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> does anyone know some awesome 2560x1440 wallpapers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


I like wallpaperswide.com the best..


----------



## ZgunnerZ

I'm looking to buy a QX2710, but all the ads have a warning along the lines of "will not work with anything other than DVI-D, no adapters."

I have 2 x HIS 7970 which have HDMI and DVI-I (dual link). Would the DVI-D cable fit in and function with the DVI-I in my GPU?


----------



## TesseractOrion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZgunnerZ*
> 
> I have 2 x HIS 7970 which have HDMI and DVI-I (dual link). Would the DVI-D cable fit in and function with the DVI-I in my GPU?


Short answer: yes


----------



## ZgunnerZ

Thanks, I figured as much.

Also do these monitors ship with a DVI-D cable? Short answer would be fine here too


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZgunnerZ*
> 
> Thanks, I figured as much.
> 
> Also do these monitors ship with a DVI-D cable? Short answer would be fine here too


They all ship with a Dual Link DVI-D cable.

Although there was exactly one case where the person received a single link DVI-D cable instead.


----------



## ZgunnerZ

Just ordered mine from green-sum. Crossing my fingers that there are no issues now!


----------



## blu3fr0g

Well...I ordered my qx2710 DPort version (multiple inports) for $360 from accessorieswhole on Sunday... and UPS says it will be delivered on Tuesday to Texas! That's ridiculously fast.

I hope everything goes well...

Edit:

Yes I am aware that there is more input lag due to it having multiple ports and a scalar, and that it's not overclockable. The trade-off is that I can hook up my desktop, laptop and ps3, and have no incompatibility issues with any bios displaying.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Fair enough. Enjoy...


----------



## Phantasma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> even though i'm a few months off from buying my monitor i'm already collecting 2560x1440 wallpapers in exitment haha


You and me both man.


----------



## UNOE

I waited a few months when the Catleaps were getting popular. Then all of a sudden they couldn't do 120hz any more and where double the price. Soon as I saw these PLS 120hz, I acted fast didn't want to miss out like last time.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> i don't have that option in my nvidia control panel anywhere. i'm using 320.18 drivers. how did you get it to show up?


Well i did some reading and this option is reserved for native 120hz monitors. With that being said to get the option you have to convince your driver your monitor IS 120hz meaning having the 120hz option in the driver EDID as a native resolution refresh rate. This means anyone that does not have this set in CRU and only in NVCP as a custom resolution will not get this option. Also if you added the resolution AFTER your last drivers update it will not be there since it was not there at install. Now that you guys bring it up i did notice it was not there before i updated my drivers last(from screen shots a took for tutorials i made for my cousin)This concurs with everything i have found out so far. So if you are not seeing it this is likely why (meaning your drivers do not detect your screen as native 120hz).

So if you want to fix this you need to use CRU or a hacked EDID instead of using NVCP custom resolution. This will make your drivers think it is an actual 120hz screen and "unlock" this option(which makes it easy to get games on board with the refresh)


----------



## combatant3219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blu3fr0g*
> 
> Well...I ordered my qx2710 DPort version (multiple inports) for $360 from accessorieswhole on Sunday... and UPS says it will be delivered on Tuesday to Texas! That's ridiculously fast.
> 
> I hope everything goes well...
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Yes I am aware that there is more input lag due to it having multiple ports and a scalar, and that it's not overclockable. The trade-off is that I can hook up my desktop, laptop and ps3, and have no incompatibility issues with any bios displaying.


What's this about BIOS incompatibility?

My DVI-D only monitor arrived yesterday but haven't had a chance to unbox and test it out yet. Why would it not be compatible with BIOS?


----------



## frankietown

hey guys so my dad's qnix arrived.

we set it to 120hz and everything seems normal. is there any stability tests i can do thats not within a game? i cant game on the pc right now because i sold my titan :\


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Well i did some reading and this option is reserved for native 120hz monitors. With that being said to get the option you have to convince your driver your monitor IS 120hz meaning having the 120hz option in the driver EDID as a native resolution refresh rate. This means anyone that does not have this set in CRU and only in NVCP as a custom resolution will not get this option. Also if you added the resolution AFTER your last drivers update it will not be there since it was not there at install. Now that you guys bring it up i did notice it was not there before i updated my drivers last(from screen shots a took for tutorials i made for my cousin)This concurs with everything i have found out so far. So if you are not seeing it this is likely why (meaning your drivers do not detect your screen as native 120hz).
> 
> So if you want to fix this you need to use CRU or a hacked EDID instead of using NVCP custom resolution. This will make your drivers think it is an actual 120hz screen and "unlock" this option(which makes it easy to get games on board with the refresh)


Thanks for clearing that up. I guess I should update my driver now ...


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> What's this about BIOS incompatibility?
> 
> My DVI-D only monitor arrived yesterday but haven't had a chance to unbox and test it out yet. Why would it not be compatible with BIOS?


There is only a few AMD 5xxx cards that you can't view the bios with a 1440p screen like this. Don't worry you probably don't have one of those cards. But even if you do it will still work normal for desktop, you would just have to use another screen to do overclocking in bios to change settings.


----------



## Slickshooter

So I got back an email from accessorieswhole about my perfect backlight panel with unfortunately 7 stuck pixels:

"Hi Sorry for your inconvenience. We inspected the monitor before shipment, and there was no such pixel issue. Otherwise, we wouldn't send it to you to cause your troubles. Could you kindly send us several photos to check? Our email address is: blah blah blah. We always do our best to solve the issue. We will wait for your response. Thank you."

I didn't know they checked each monitor before shipment.. Now 4 of the pixels are larger and roughly the same size while three of them you have to really squint to see. How would you guys take pictures of your monitor? Some of the pixels need really accurate focusing but then the other ones get lost. I guess I could take a wide shot with as deep a focus as possible? With or without lights?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blu3fr0g*
> 
> Well...I ordered my qx2710 DPort version (multiple inports) for $360 from accessorieswhole on Sunday... and UPS says it will be delivered on Tuesday to Texas! That's ridiculously fast.
> 
> I hope everything goes well...
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Yes I am aware that there is more input lag due to it having multiple ports and a scalar, and that it's not overclockable. The trade-off is that I can hook up my desktop, laptop and ps3, and have no incompatibility issues with any bios displaying.


Nice decision, I didn't know you could get it that cheap! Let us know if you can overclock it and any noticeable input lag.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankietown*
> 
> hey guys so my dad's qnix arrived.
> 
> we set it to 120hz and everything seems normal. is there any stability tests i can do thats not within a game? i cant game on the pc right now because i sold my titan :\


What you mean stability test?


----------



## combatant3219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> There is only a few AMD 5xxx cards that you can't view the bios with a 1440p screen like this. Don't worry you probably don't have one of those cards. But even if you do it will still work normal for desktop, you would just have to use another screen to do overclocking in bios to change settings.


Ok thanks. I'd seen a few posts like that so was just wondering what the deal was. I have a GTX 780 so it should be fine.


----------



## szeged

Hi guys, i was hoping to join the club soon, but i dont know where to look for one of these monitors, i see a lot of people suggest ebay, can someone get me a direct link to one of the monitors for sale? either monitor is fine they both look basically the same to me. thanks!


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Hi guys, i was hoping to join the club soon, but i dont know where to look for one of these monitors, i see a lot of people suggest ebay, can someone get me a direct link to one of the monitors for sale? either monitor is fine they both look basically the same to me. thanks!


Go here, this place is located in CA, you might have to pay a little more for the same monitors sold on ebay but it is a alternative...

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/default.asp


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> Go here, this place is located in CA, you might have to pay a little more for the same monitors sold on ebay but it is a alternative...
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/default.asp


thanks ill check it out, pricewise, compared to ebay, how much higher are the prices from this site to ebays? i dont mind paying a slight premium from a different site really.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thanks ill check it out, pricewise, compared to ebay, how much higher are the prices from this site to ebays? i dont mind paying a slight premium from a different site really.


Well I only been looking at the Qnix and the X Star monitors mostly $288 and for pixel perfect $309 on ebay and at ipsledmonitors.com they roughly come out to $329 plus tax. Which still isn't all that bad.


----------



## szeged

ah thanks, ill check both out and hopefully be in the club soon


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ah thanks, ill check both out and hopefully be in the club soon


Nice, I just ordered mine today off ebay I hope to be in the club soon too!


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Well i did some reading and this option is reserved for native 120hz monitors. With that being said to get the option you have to convince your driver your monitor IS 120hz meaning having the 120hz option in the driver EDID as a native resolution refresh rate. This means anyone that does not have this set in CRU and only in NVCP as a custom resolution will not get this option. Also if you added the resolution AFTER your last drivers update it will not be there since it was not there at install. Now that you guys bring it up i did notice it was not there before i updated my drivers last(from screen shots a took for tutorials i made for my cousin)This concurs with everything i have found out so far. So if you are not seeing it this is likely why (meaning your drivers do not detect your screen as native 120hz).
> 
> So if you want to fix this you need to use CRU or a hacked EDID instead of using NVCP custom resolution. This will make your drivers think it is an actual 120hz screen and "unlock" this option(which makes it easy to get games on board with the refresh)


that is good information to know. thanks. so out of curosity after reading your post, i went and installed the catleap .inf for my monitor driver. the end result is 120hz does show up in games which have an option to select. obviously games like tomb raider 2013 and metro last night don't have a refresh rate select option. players will need to turn off vsync for situations like those. but vsync should be off always to get 96hz or 120hz displayed. some games like dead space 3 force 30FPS when vsync is on (that is a no no).

i might try the CRU route after final fantasy xiv hits retail stores as i'll upgrade my nvidia drivers for that game. all i did was install the catleap .infi file and made a custom nvidia profile. no additional steps were taken.

dead space 3


world of warcraft


----------



## apav

I'm sure this has been asked before, but how the heck are these monitors getting cheaper? I bought mine in April for $317. I thought the opposite would happen, that the prices would go up a bit (like when the hype kicked in for the original K-IPS monitors). This is.. unexpected. May have to snag another one









EDIT:
Also, I wanted to ask you guys this. I think this is normal, because I can't find a single post with a person complaining about this, but does your QNIX make a kind of cracking and/or creaking noise when you pick it up, tilt it, or apply pressure on the monitor? I'll be sending the monitor to SquareTrade to fix another problem, but I'd like to know if this is a common noise with all QNIX's so I can tell SquareTrade if this is an actual problem or not. Thanks!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> that is good information to know. thanks. so out of curosity after reading your post, i went and installed the catleap .inf for my monitor driver. the end result is 120hz does show up in games which have an option to select. obviously games like tomb raider 2013 and metro last night don't have a refresh rate select option. players will need to turn off vsync for situations like those. but vsync should be off always to get 96hz or 120hz displayed. some games like dead space 3 force 30FPS when vsync is on (that is a no no).
> 
> i might try the CRU route after final fantasy xiv hits retail stores as i'll upgrade my nvidia drivers for that game. all i did was install the catleap .infi file and made a custom nvidia profile. no additional steps were taken.
> 
> dead space 3
> 
> 
> world of warcraft


This is exactly what shadowrun did until i used the preferred refresh rate option. If you have a game that does not have a refresh rate option it will override the in game default and switch it to your max available refresh. Same with tomb raider for me. Also turning vsync off does not mean you are seeing that many frames because it will just overlap and tear. I found this out in Shadowrun as well. With vsync off it would stick around 200fps but if i slung the mouse cursor around it was not as smooth as the desktop. After enabling the preferred refresh shadowrun and the desktop are the same and you can turn on vsync in the NVCP and it will stick to 120fps(in game still wants 30fps though because it is an xbox port). Before preferred refresh NVCP vsync would set the game to 60hz after 120hz.

So with this being said some games without refresh options may not be able to be set to 120hz without the driver override since even with vsync off it will set the active refresh to less than 120hz. FRAPs will show more but it is juts overlapped frames.


----------



## Spartan F8

posted by nodnarb

So these are my first Korean displays. I made custom resolutions for them in NVIDIA Control Panel for 2560x1440 at 120Hz. They are both running perfect. Is there a stress test or anything I can do to make sure they will run long term at 120Hz? Sorry if this in a dumb question, I really couldn't find anything on it while searching the forums. Thanks for the help. thumb.gif

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> If i understand you properly you mean something like stress testing a CPU for stability. There is no really stress test that can perform that operation that anyone knows of right now but you can take a darker grey or pail bluee background and set it to the background of your screen. Look closely and you may see lines or ripples in the screen. The level of intensity of these lines or ripples gives you an indentation of how well it is running. If you don't see any good for you.
> 
> If you do just setting a custom resolution in the NVCP has been found to be the lesser quality way of doing this. This is because it is still registered as a "custom refresh" and not something native(meaning it wont work with some games). It is also better to use CRU because you can reduce the pixel clock further with it by setting your timings to LCD reduced or even doing it manually. This will reduce the "stress" or strain you are putting on the cable which will make the refresh more stable.
> 
> Another way of telling how well it is running is setting the screen to an all white background. Check the uniformity level from one side of the screen to the other. If there is a big difference then you are not doing very good and you could very well use some betting timings or a better cable. If you see no difference from one side to the other you are good to go.
> 
> Let us know how it goes in the club thread. Also any further questions you have please post them in the thread since we are getting several Qnix and Xstar based threads going on which can dilute the effective information. Having everything in one thread will help others later find it.


More info i am posting here to keep us all in the same space.


----------



## nodnarb

Thanks for moving it over here







I downloaded Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher and CRU. Everything seems to be running fine. Ran a few games and don't see anything that looks bad. I also changed my background to full white and everything looked very uniformed. I can't see any bad pixels either, looks like I got 2 really good displays!







I appreciate the help and if anyone wants to know I got the non pixel perfect from Green Sum and they are extremely beautiful.


----------



## Vinnces

Hmm, should I sell my Crossover and get a Qnix? Really want to see the difference between 60hz and 120hz...


----------



## ChazRose

Hi guys,
My X-Star arrived today and its amazing!! There seems to be no dead pixels or BLB. And it can overclock just shy of 120hz.
There's one small problem that to be honest I can barely notice and doesn't make a huge difference.
On the very right of my screen to the bottom there is a patch that is a bit darker than the rest.
I'm not sure if this can be fixed or if its a pixel problem.
Thanks


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChazRose*
> 
> Hi guys,
> My X-Star arrived today and its amazing!! There seems to be no dead pixels or BLB. And it can overclock just shy of 120hz.
> There's one small problem that to be honest I can barely notice and doesn't make a huge difference.
> On the very right of my screen to the bottom there is a patch that is a bit darker than the rest.
> I'm not sure if this can be fixed or if its a pixel problem.
> Thanks


Is the darker patch there only when its OCed?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vinnces*
> 
> Hmm, should I sell my Crossover and get a Qnix? Really want to see the difference between 60hz and 120hz...


Even though its not as smooth as a true 120hz tn panel in motion blur..I love playing BF3 at 120hz on my Qnix..I don't think i can ever game at 60hz or 1080p again..


----------



## ChazRose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Is the darker patch there only when its OCed?


There you go. Put it back to 60hz and all is fine. Thanks! I think I'll leave it at my overclock though as it is bearly a problem. good to know though.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChazRose*
> 
> There you go. Put it back to 60hz and all is fine. Thanks! I think I'll leave it at my overclock though as it is bearly a problem. good to know though.


Alot of them get darker on the right side when OCed.There is nothing you can do about it..Did you try a 120hz ICC profile?


----------



## Turok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I like wallpaperswide.com the best..


As I have my sidebar on the right side, is there a way to remove or download the wallpapers from the above site without the "watermark"?


----------



## Turok

Another good wallpaper site:

http://www.wallpaperpics.net/


----------



## szeged

Gonna order the x star today most likely, how much of a difference do you guys think ill see coming from a 24" 1080p 60hz monitor?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

A ****load.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> A ****load.


Lol good to hear. Now to find out how to hide 3 of them from the gf or else she'll want 3 also


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Wow! accessorieswhole is one fast shipper and replier! I bought it on Sunday night and it was shipped on Monday. Now its out for delivery today on Tuesday!

I'm so excited about my new Qnix monitor!


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> Wow! accessorieswhole is one fast shipper and replier! I bought it on Sunday night and it was shipped on Monday. Now its out for delivery today on Tuesday!
> 
> I'm so excited about my new Qnix monitor!


Nice, I bought mine yesterday morning and I'm still waiting for it to be shipped, ugh!


----------



## rayz007

Hello all. After reading most of this thread I decided to order the following monitor.

QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" 2560x1440 WQHD PLS Computer Monitor *Matte

I ordered it from Green-Sum for $289.00

The monitor took 3 days to deliver to New York, USA. No additional costs.

The monitor has very minor back bleed and no dead/stuck pixels that I can see.

I was able to apply the Nvidia pixel clock patch and created two custom profiles at
96hz and 120hz. Both are selected via the Nvidia control panel. Both work without
any noticeable artifacts.

I am using an EVGA GTX 680 Classified ($449 at Amazon after $30 rebate).
In FarCry 3, I get around 33 fps with max settings at 2560x1440 @120hz.
I am using Adaptive Vsync.

So does it make any sense to dumb down the settings in FarCry to up the FPS to see the smoothness of 120hz?
It seems kind of counter productive. Btw, the 33 fps is playable for me. I have a Samsung 27" 275T and it
looks brighter and better color than this Qnix. I need a color profile for 60hz, 96hz, and 120hz. I tried doing
it by eye in the Nvidia control panel but I think one of the icc profiles floating around will be better. If someone
can link to the profiles that would be great. I'll search for them as well. I also have a 24" AOC 1920x1080 monitor
and I am going to try and setup a surround setup at 5760x1080. Hopefully the GTX 680 can handle it. It has
4GB Vram. I am running an i7 [email protected] I might have to buy another GTX 680 Classified for SLI. Anyways
long winded I know, but hope this helps someone with their buying decision. It might be a crap shoot, but it's for
real. Can't beat the price. Btw, the base does suck but it works and hopefully will last till I pick up a 3 way surround VESA mount.

rayz007


----------



## blu3fr0g

OH

MY

GOD

Monitor arrived in Texas from Korea in less than 40 hours. If you guys remember, I ordered the QNIX QX2710 DPort (multiple input) version by accessorieswhole. Bad news first...

Opened it up...and the monitor was X-STAR -__-

But after initial testing and setup...

EVERYTHING IS PERFECT

NO dead pixels
VERY LITTLE BLB
wobbly stand (expected)
Overclocked to 90hz with NVIDIA control panel (100hz doesn't work). However, it seems that the AD-Board may be skipping frames (still kinda choppy). Keeping it at 60hz~. Not going to test if it's actually 90hz cause I don't have the right equipment or the time.

Edit:
It is artifacting at 90hz...perhaps no overclocking. Doesn't matter though, as I got a really nice panel.

Got a personal note from from accessories whole...it seems like they not only opened it up, but also tested it as well. Strange, as I didn't order the pixel perfect version but got a pixel perfect monitor!

Will update with pix!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blu3fr0g*
> 
> OH
> 
> MY
> 
> GOD
> 
> Monitor arrived in Texas from Korea in less than 40 hours. If you guys remember, I ordered the QNIX QX2710 DPort (multiple input) version by accessorieswhole. Bad news first...
> 
> Opened it up...and the monitor was X-STAR -__-
> 
> But after initial testing and setup...
> 
> EVERYTHING IS PERFECT
> 
> NO dead pixels
> VERY LITTLE BLB
> wobbly stand (expected)
> Overclocked to 90hz with NVIDIA control panel (100hz doesn't work). However, it seems that the AD-Board may be skipping frames (still kinda choppy). Keeping it at 60hz~. Not going to test if it's actually 90hz cause I don't have the right equipment or the time.
> 
> Edit:
> It is artifacting at 90hz...perhaps no overclocking. Doesn't matter though, as I got a really nice panel.
> 
> Got a personal note from from accessories whole...it seems like they not only opened it up, but also tested it as well. Strange, as I didn't order the pixel perfect version but got a pixel perfect monitor!
> 
> Will update with pix!


So you got the multiple input Xstar instead of the Qnix?So now we at least know for sure they can't really OC without frame skipping..Glad you got a good one even though it's the wrong brand although they are exactly the same..Let us know how it goes as I think you are the first one to buy a multiple input model..


----------



## moxx

Hey guys,

I've just finished my "tuning" of my QX2710.

At first I just took the case off to get the monitor stand off... Then I remembered having some rests of "PlastiDip" in matte black with which I painted my rims in matte black...

http://www.amazon.com/Performix-PLASTI-Mulit-Purpose-Rubber-Coating/dp/B005LDCXXS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373397580&sr=8-1&keywords=plastidip+matte+black

So here we go:

I took a 320 Sandpaper and polished the case with it. I've taped the already matte area where the power led is on... didn't take a pic of that...!


Still a bit wet...


This is it when it was dry and put back on onto the TFT



Then I mounted it onto my HP VESA 100 Mount, so finally it looked like this


edit: added 2 higher quality pics!

I liked the QNIX before doing all this, but now I f****n LOVE IT!









cheers


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Nice idea and work. Matte bezel does match matte screen better too.


----------



## 187x

Looks nice, very good job! Thanks for sharing, I might do this when I receive mine.


----------



## Geran

So if one was to look for the most reputable seller of the Qnix monitors...would it be HuluStar or dream-seller?


----------



## moxx

I would definitely buy again at green-sum!

@blu3 mine was shipped out really fast too. plus: he made me a receipt with a total of 150$ and "refurbished" on it, after i asked him...


----------



## blu3fr0g

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geran*
> 
> So if one was to look for the most reputable seller of the Qnix monitors...would it be HuluStar or dream-seller?


I would definitely buy from accessorieswhole again. They have ridiculously fast shipping and positive feedback. However, their products are usually a bit pricier.


----------



## gockelmax

2 weeks ago I ordered the following cable "Monoprice 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D" in order to get from 114 Hz to 120Hz.
Unfortunately the performance with the new "high quality" cable is even worse, the QNIX cannot even maintain 114 without errors.
The odd thing is that I get BLUE horizontal scan lines now whereas I got only green and red ones with the stock cable.
Is it because the cable is too long?
Im using LCD reduced (CRU) with a 7950.


----------



## ChazRose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blu3fr0g*
> 
> Monitor arrived in Texas from Korea in less than 40 hours. If you guys remember, I ordered the QNIX QX2710 DPort (multiple input) version by accessorieswhole. Bad news first...
> 
> Opened it up...and the monitor was X-STAR -__-


This also happened to my friend. He ordered Qnix but got X-star. His monitor was very good though anyway so he doesn't mind. Is this common getting the wrong brand?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gockelmax*
> 
> 2 weeks ago I ordered the following cable "Monoprice 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D" in order to get from 114 Hz to 120Hz.
> Unfortunately the performance with the new "high quality" cable is even worse, the QNIX cannot even maintain 114 without errors.
> The odd thing is that I get BLUE horizontal scan lines now whereas I got only green and red ones with the stock cable.
> Is it because the cable is too long?
> Im using LCD reduced (CRU) with a 7950.


I have three 3 foot cables and three 6 foot cables. Overall the shorter 3 foot cables do better. Also try using a different port of your 7950. My cards have two ports on each and the bottom card's second port got me the furthest overclock so it does matter. You might also try manually setting the total pixels down until they are as low as possible then up the refresh like i posted in my other post.

The difference in scan line's color is likely the difference in each DVI connection lane. You no longer get that color line because that lane of color is now stable or stabler(LOL).


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChazRose*
> 
> This also happened to my friend. He ordered Qnix but got X-star. His monitor was very good though anyway so he doesn't mind. Is this common getting the wrong brand?


I would not say it is common because if it where we would be seeing many more people reporting it(people report negative more than positive overall). I would not be too concerned sense the difference is only a sticker.


----------



## firefox2501

Just got my perfect pixel in from green-sum today and I have quite a few dead pixels. In the upper corner I counted about 50 before I stopped counting.

Just messaged him but ended up opening a case for it instead, didn't realize it automatically opened a case.

Does anyone know If I am responsible for the return shipping for this?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefox2501*
> 
> Just got my perfect pixel in from green-sum today and I have quite a few dead pixels. In the upper corner I counted about 50 before I stopped counting.
> 
> Just messaged him but ended up opening a case for it instead, didn't realize it automatically opened a case.
> 
> Does anyone know If I am responsible for the return shipping for this?


Honestly i think you should not be but this would have been a good thing to get crystal clear from green-sum before buying the monitor. Did you get the squaretrade warranty?


----------



## RamenNoodles55

I just got my monitor today, but did anyone in the US get to pay a fee? They sent mine through UPS and the guy said I owed UPS $107 dollars. I bought this monitor from accessorieswhole for 289.00 w/ free shipping.


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Honestly i think you should not be but this would have been a good thing to get crystal clear from green-sum before buying the monitor. Did you get the squaretrade warranty?


sadly no, my crossover had 5-6 dead pixels and didn't really bother me and I am handy enough to fix back-light bleed problems. I just didn't expect to get this many dead pixels.


----------



## Apinchof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> I just got my monitor today, but did anyone in the US get to pay a fee? They sent mine through UPS and the guy said I owed UPS $107 dollars. I bought this monitor from accessorieswhole for 289.00 w/ free shipping.


Something seems wrong there


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iambazerkus*
> 
> Something seems wrong there


I concur


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Yeah it does seem wrong, I've read multiple forums and it seems people in the US didn't have to pay any fees. So I'm not sure why I had to pay UPS 107.00, he said it was for the collect on delivery. I told the UPS guy to come back tomorrow while I try to sort this out, but I'm not sure where to start. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## Apinchof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> Yeah it does seem wrong, I've read multiple forums and it seems people in the US didn't have to pay any fees. So I'm not sure why I had to pay UPS 107.00, he said it was for the collect on delivery. I told the UPS guy to come back tomorrow while I try to sort this out, but I'm not sure where to start. Any help is appreciated.


Seems like you already paid the fee.
I would call UPS to see why the fee was added to the account
I would then contact the seller to see if anything can be worked out. Maybe he'll be able to offer a refund. If you can't come to an agreement bring in ebay.

It doesn't seem like this is a customs fee, so price of shipping should be the sellers responsibility. Get proof of the collect on delivery so that you can use it with the case
It might also be a good idea to open up a ebay case, to see what they can do.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> Yeah it does seem wrong, I've read multiple forums and it seems people in the US didn't have to pay any fees. So I'm not sure why I had to pay UPS 107.00, he said it was for the collect on delivery. I told the UPS guy to come back tomorrow while I try to sort this out, but I'm not sure where to start. Any help is appreciated.


Call ups 1800 number and ask them what it is that you are paying for.


----------



## RamenNoodles55

The UPS guy told me the fee was for shipping from Korea to the US, I'll call tomorrow to confirm if that's true or not. Since their office is closed right now.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> The UPS guy told me the fee was for shipping from Korea to the US, I'll call tomorrow to confirm if that's true or not. Since their office is closed right now.


Uh.. Screw that. Deny the package and get a refund.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

That might be a scam by the driver. No "fees" to US. Free trade.


----------



## RamenNoodles55

If I deny the packaged, will it just get sent back to the seller w/o me paying anything? Or is there any repercussions for denying the C.O.D.


----------



## Apinchof

Normally they would just send it back to the sender. I don't think they have your credit card info, so they can't charge you.
Things might be a little different for international, but the same process should apply.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> The UPS guy told me the fee was for shipping from Korea to the US, I'll call tomorrow to confirm if that's true or not. Since their office is closed right now.


You tried calling 1800-pick-ups?they should be open right now.


----------



## UNOE

I would deny the package too. And open a case on ebay tell them why you denied the package. Item said free shipping but was not. Simple


----------



## RamenNoodles55

I just called UPS and they told me the 100.00 fee is the Custom Fee for clearing UPS and that's their assessment and the 7 dollars is for the brokerage fee.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> I just called UPS and they told me the 100.00 fee is the Custom Fee for clearing UPS and that's their assessment and the 7 dollars is for the brokerage fee.


We have free trade agreement.. There should be no customs fees..Has anyone else got a monitor from Ups on here?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> We have free trade agreement.. There should be no customs fees..Has anyone else got a monitor from Ups on here?


I did no fees no bill in mail.

They must have put that fee there by mistake.


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I did no fees no bill in mail.
> 
> They must have put that fee there by mistake.


Same got UPS Worldwide Saver delivered in 2 days , no customs fee.


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I did no fees no bill in mail.
> 
> They must have put that fee there by mistake.


If it was indeed a mistake, do you know how I can go about to getting it resolved. Or should I just contact accessorieswhole about this?

Thanks for all the replies so far.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> If it was indeed a mistake, do you know how I can go about to getting it resolved. Or should I just contact accessorieswhole about this?
> 
> Thanks for all the replies so far.


I don't know how but seems like it was UPS mistake so why not contact them.

Tell them your confident there is no customs fees for S. Korea shipments and you know a mistake was made


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> If it was indeed a mistake, do you know how I can go about to getting it resolved. Or should I just contact accessorieswhole about this?
> 
> Thanks for all the replies so far.


Tell them the US has a free trade agreement with S.KOREA and you know hundreds of people who got the same monitor had didn't have to pay this fee .Ask if there is anyway they could have made a mistake. And if they say no then ask if it is a new law that got passed today..


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Hey guys, I just talked to the UPS guy again. And they said the reason for the the custom fee is because the seller valued my PC monitor at $2000. So I should contact the seller to have him change it....


----------



## Jack Mac

I have a few quick questions for you guys:
1. Does 100+Hz make a big difference in how fluid games look on these panels?
2. Which monitor do you guys recommend for getting 90-100+Hz out of?
3. How much do these usually end up costing after shipping+taxes?
4. Is a 670 going to be strong enough to run 1440p at 100+FPS? I don't care about graphics too much.


----------



## combatant3219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> Hey guys, I just talked to the UPS guy again. And they said the reason for the the custom fee is because the seller valued my PC monitor at $2000. So I should contact the seller to have him change it....


Man I really hope you get that sorted out!

On another note, what do you guys think of SLI'ing GTX 780's for 1440P?

I really want to be able to max everything out and picking up another 780 is an option for me at the moment.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> I just got my monitor today, but did anyone in the US get to pay a fee? They sent mine through UPS and the guy said I owed UPS $107 dollars. I bought this monitor from accessorieswhole for 289.00 w/ free shipping.


I hope you get this sorted out too, I hope I don't have to go threw this bs when I receive mine


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I hope you get this sorted out too, I hope I don't have to go threw this bs when I receive mine


Thanks, I contacted accessorieswhole and they are now in the process of calling UPS to sort this out. I hope everything goes smoothly, so I can get my monitor and use it.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I hope you get this sorted out too, I hope I don't have to go threw this bs when I receive mine


This is the first case i have heard of this happening..Don't worry bud..


----------



## UNOE

Obvious it was just a error. $200 vs $2000 more likely someone read it wrong or sell just typed to many Zero's. It should be fine. And know one needs to panic afraid this will happen to them.


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> I have a few quick questions for you guys:
> 1. Does 100+Hz make a big difference in how fluid games look on these panels?
> 2. Which monitor do you guys recommend for getting 90-100+Hz out of?
> 3. How much do these usually end up costing after shipping+taxes?
> 4. Is a 670 going to be strong enough to run 1440p at 100+FPS? I don't care about graphics too much.


1. Depends on how much you play said games. If your fluent, you will definitely notice the difference, if not, meh.
2. Both monitors do it fine if you get the DVI only version. Do not buy the ones with other inputs.
3. I paid exactly $289, no taxes, no shipping costs, no customs fees.
4. If you don't care about graphics, then yes you'll probably get near or above at medium or low on newer games. Can probably still do 100+ on older ones.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> 1. Depends on how much you play said games. If your fluent, you will definitely notice the difference, if not, meh.
> 2. Both monitors do it fine if you get the DVI only version. Do not buy the ones with other inputs.
> 3. I paid exactly $289, no taxes, no shipping costs, no customs fees.
> 4. If you don't care about graphics, then yes you'll probably get near or above at medium or low on newer games. Can probably still do 100+ on older ones.


Alright, thanks for the help. I appreciate it.


----------



## sluggy

Getting ready to join the club. Will receive in a few (business) days...


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> Thanks, I contacted accessorieswhole and they are now in the process of calling UPS to sort this out. I hope everything goes smoothly, so I can get my monitor and use it.


Oh good, I am sure it was a honest mistake good luck though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> This is the first case i have heard of this happening..Don't worry bud..


Oh ok, whew!


----------



## Beens17

Hey guys !

I'm about to order a QNIX and i have a durability question.
I do not have spare money for a new monitor every year.
Because of that reason i do not plan to over clock the monitor at all

How is the monitor life considering i will not over clock?

I'm sitting here looking at the "Commit to buy" button lol...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beens17*
> 
> Hey guys !
> 
> I'm about to order a QNIX and i have a durability question.
> I do not have spare money for a new monitor every year.
> Because of that reason i do not plan to over clock the monitor at all
> 
> How is the monitor life considering i will not over clock?
> 
> I'm sitting here looking at the "Commit to buy" button lol...


just get a squaretrade warranty and OC it..Then if it breaks in 3 years they either fix it or give you money back..


----------



## Beens17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> just get a squaretrade warranty and OC it..Then if it breaks in 3 years they either fix it or give you money back..


I'm from Israel.
And i assume that squaretrade warranty only available in the US ?


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beens17*
> 
> Hey guys !
> 
> I'm about to order a QNIX and i have a durability question.
> I do not have spare money for a new monitor every year.
> Because of that reason i do not plan to over clock the monitor at all
> 
> How is the monitor life considering i will not over clock?
> 
> I'm sitting here looking at the "Commit to buy" button lol...


Who cares about buying a new monitor for this price? I would just buy a spare, just in case the monitor breaks down.


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> I just got my monitor today, but did anyone in the US get to pay a fee? They sent mine through UPS and the guy said I owed UPS $107 dollars. I bought this monitor from accessorieswhole for 289.00 w/ free shipping.


Even with the fee included you still get a cheap monitor.


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefox2501*
> 
> Just got my perfect pixel in from green-sum today and I have quite a few dead pixels. In the upper corner I counted about 50 before I stopped counting.
> 
> Just messaged him but ended up opening a case for it instead, didn't realize it automatically opened a case.
> 
> Does anyone know If I am responsible for the return shipping for this?


Yes you pay for the shipping. You just got unlucky with your Pixel Perfect version.








I am still trying to count my defective pixels on my QNIX, however it's impossible, because I don't have any!


----------



## OneGun

Firefox2501 They should pay for return shipping just be ready to take some pictures of the dead pixels...


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beens17*
> 
> Hey guys !
> 
> I'm about to order a QNIX and i have a durability question.
> I do not have spare money for a new monitor every year.
> Because of that reason i do not plan to over clock the monitor at all
> 
> How is the monitor life considering i will not over clock?
> 
> I'm sitting here looking at the "Commit to buy" button lol...


Click on it, and hope for the best or the alternative is a bit more for a warrantied version from your local market.There are pages and pages here for you to make up your mind already.


----------



## Phantasma

I've been reading through all of the pages in this thread to pass away the time at work and I have yet to read about any monitor damage from overclocking. So far I've seen that it works perfectly at 120hz , it doesn't so it gets clocked down to 96hz and works perfectly, or it doesn't make it past 80hz stable (definitely worst case scenario so far).


----------



## Beens17

It is done!
Ordered the PP version from dream-seller

Hope it arrive fast


----------



## Apinchof

For me it took a few days for them to ship it out.
Once that happened mine came in two days


----------



## Phantasma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> I have a few quick questions for you guys:
> 1. Does 100+Hz make a big difference in how fluid games look on these panels?
> 2. Which monitor do you guys recommend for getting 90-100+Hz out of?
> 3. How much do these usually end up costing after shipping+taxes?
> 4. Is a 670 going to be strong enough to run 1440p at 100+FPS? I don't care about graphics too much.


1. Yes. You have to see it to believe.
2. Everyone has their own preferences / uses for each type of panel. Be more specific.
3. Cheapest I've seen is $289 which I bought + ~$20 duty in Japan
4. Once again, be more specific. What games? Then again, you don't care about graphics too much (but care enough to buy a 670







) so you should be fine. I run two 670s and these things are UNSTOPPABLE at 1440p...However BF3 on ultra sees a minimum of 68fps and an average of 85 for me so I whip off the 4x Antialiasing and we're back at 120fps...yes, I'm picky


----------



## firefox2501

Green-sum is being pretty awesome at getting back to me quickly, seems like they are willing to help. On the plus side I went to overclock my qnix and am running stable at 120hz. First tried the standard automatic settings which gave me the horizontal red lines. Tried the lcd reduced settings and it seems to have cleared up any issues.

I haven't really noticed the dead pixels much so if I have to keep this one it won't be the end of the world. If anything I could try to "massage" the pixels back to life.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ok the UPS thing with Ramen may have been related to an accidental "extra zero" but I thought free trade meant free trade? Did not know there was a dollar amount involved.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beens17*
> 
> It is done!
> Ordered the PP version from dream-seller
> 
> Hope it arrive fast


I just talked to dream-seller last night and my monitor will be shipped out tomorrow. I ordered mine on monday morning so be prepared to wait 2 to 3 days before he ships because he said he has a very high volume of orders right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok the UPS thing with Ramen may have been related to an accidental "extra zero" but I thought free trade meant free trade? Did not know there was a dollar amount involved.


I guess it's free trade until you hit a certain dollar value of the item, but I am sure he'll get it sorted out, accidents will happen I sure wouldn't accept the package if this ever happened to me.


----------



## Spartan F8

FYI just updated to the latest nvidia drivers and was able to get 153hz stable(as i have said before "bad uniformity past 131hz" but it is neat to go higher). Still getting some green lines at 154 and 155 sends the monitor into test mode(red, blue, yellow, grey scale, etc)


----------



## wntrsnowg

The following users haven't posted verification pictures as stated requirement for joining club and have been temporarily removed from members list:
HBlakeH
rayz007
Caenlen


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Ok the UPS thing with Ramen may have been related to an accidental "extra zero" but I thought free trade meant free trade? Did not know there was a dollar amount involved.


Nor did I. That seems sketchy....

quick google search and found this website for calculating import duties/customs

http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/saved_calculations/view_details/185553889/

With $2000 declared value, and $110 shipping fee, there is no customs.


----------



## moxx

nice calc, thx for that!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Nor did I. That seems sketchy....
> 
> quick google search and found this website for calculating import duties/customs
> 
> http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/saved_calculations/view_details/185553889/
> 
> With $2000 declared value, and $110 shipping fee, there is no customs.


Seems like UPS is trying to make some extra cash.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

thats it. Putting my u2711 on CL and buying on of these.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> The following users haven't posted verification pictures as stated requirement for joining club and have been temporarily removed from members list:
> HBlakeH
> rayz007
> Caenlen


Did I ever post a picture?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> The following users haven't posted verification pictures as stated requirement for joining club and have been temporarily removed from members list:
> 
> HBlakeH
> 
> rayz007
> 
> Caenlen
> 
> 
> 
> Did I ever post a picture?
Click to expand...

I think i used to be more lenient. Plus you have high rep and post count

edit: yes you did, _technically_
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3960_30#post_20346879


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I think i used to be more lenient. Plus you have high rep and post count
> 
> edit: yes you did, _technically_
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3960_30#post_20346879


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3950_50#post_20346967

There's some better verification.


----------



## apav

Hey guys,

I'm having a major problem with my Qnix, see here if you'd like to read:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1408018/qnix-qx2710-display-problem-whats-the-cause#post_20372486

I will be sending my monitor to SquareTrade to repair, as Hulustar would make me pay to ship it back to South Korea (even if it is a manufacturer's defect). I know SquareTrade is a reputable company, but how is their repair service? I'm going to try and ask if they can fix the panel play as well, thus some of the backlight bleed.

Also, I wanted to ask you guys this. I think this is normal, because I can't find a single post with a person complaining about this, but does your QNIX make a kind of cracking and/or creaking noise when you pick it up, tilt it, or apply pressure on the monitor? Happens every time with mine.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Sounds like the panel is loose inside the bezel. It's really only held down by two unsecured tabs on either side.


----------



## Dominae

Hi all. Read most of the thread after my old monitor decided to stop lighting up.

Bought a 27" QNIX from dream-seller a little over a week ago. No dead pixels, minor back light bleed from the bottom right ... overall pretty happy with it. I swapped the stand out for a VESA based desk stand I had sitting around and it works MUCH better than the wimpy little clear nub.

OC'd it with CRU to 120Mhz and through CCC on an AMD 7950. Didn't tinker with any specific settings at all, just flipped it to 120 and rebooted. Worked great, zero artifacts, no weird lines, etc.

Ran it like that for a few days, zero issues .... then I got the dreaded "video driver stopped responding but recovered" popup, and a couple minutes after the monitor went black. Blue LED in the bottom just blinked over and over. Changed cables ... no help ... rebooting ... no help. Had to borrow a monitor and set the QNIX as secondary and I was able to switch back to 60Mhz with CRU and it worked when I rebooted.

Tinkered some more with it and its working at 120 again ... fingers crossed it stays that way. lol .. first time overclocking a monitor, but I followed directions well enough on the first page.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominae*
> 
> Hi all. Read most of the thread after my old monitor decided to stop lighting up.
> 
> Bought a 27" QNIX from dream-seller a little over a week ago. No dead pixels, minor back light bleed from the bottom right ... overall pretty happy with it. I swapped the stand out for a VESA based desk stand I had sitting around and it works MUCH better than the wimpy little clear nub.
> 
> OC'd it with CRU to 120Mhz and through CCC on an AMD 7950. Didn't tinker with any specific settings at all, just flipped it to 120 and rebooted. Worked great, zero artifacts, no weird lines, etc.
> 
> Ran it like that for a few days, zero issues .... then I got the dreaded "video driver stopped responding but recovered" popup, and a couple minutes after the monitor went black. Blue LED in the bottom just blinked over and over. Changed cables ... no help ... rebooting ... no help. Had to borrow a monitor and set the QNIX as secondary and I was able to switch back to 60Mhz with CRU and it worked when I rebooted.
> 
> Tinkered some more with it and its working at 120 again ... fingers crossed it stays that way. lol .. first time overclocking a monitor, but I followed directions well enough on the first page.


I had this problem and doing a full wipe, clean and re-install of my video drivers seemed to have fixed the issue since i have not seen it since(happened to me 3 times in 2 days)


----------



## titcchy

Does anybody from the UK have any idea on the delivery time for these monitors?

I purchased one from dream-seller which was sent out on the 9th, I paid £20 extra for EMS delivery because apparently they're not so strict on documents so can get it through customs for cheap. It arrived in London on the 10th and has now been updated to "Awaiting Customs clearance", does this take long and does it require me to phone them up to pay for custom charges or can I pay for the charges after it has been delivered?

Insanely clueless when it comes to international deliveries. Thanks!


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titcchy*
> 
> Does anybody from the UK have any idea on the delivery time for these monitors?
> 
> I purchased one from dream-seller which was sent out on the 9th, I paid £20 extra for EMS delivery because apparently they're not so strict on documents so can get it through customs for cheap. It arrived in London on the 10th and has now been updated to "Awaiting Customs clearance", does this take long and does it require me to phone them up to pay for custom charges or can I pay for the charges after it has been delivered?
> 
> Insanely clueless when it comes to international deliveries. Thanks!


I'd have to assume it's fast. Us in the USA get it in like 2-3 days... Which is plain ridiculous.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah if I didn't know better I'd think they must teleport them across the sea.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah if I didn't know better I'd think they must teleport them across the sea.


shhhh









also just removed members :zzricezz, Alkaline41 for no picture. follow the guidelines peeps


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> thats it. Putting my u2711 on CL and buying on of these.


Haha, just sold my VG278h on ebay today with the exact same intentions. Going for a Qnix qx2710. I'm really hoping that I don't notice input lag or ghosting in comparison after overclocking the monitor. I also really hope I end up with no dead pixels or major light bleeding.

Anyone suggest any specific ebay seller for the qx2710? I see dream-seller mentioned a lot but in the listing it says it comes with a type c power adapter that is the standard Korean adapter. Most other ebay sellers seem to included the appropriate adapter to wherever the monitor ships to.

Also I am looking for a matte version. I really don' t want to deal with any reflections. I don't see any of dream-sellers marked one way or another.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Okay... So my QNIX is making this high pitched noise when I have it at 120Hz. When I lower it, it either gets to the point where I don't hear it or it's just quieter. I have it at 96Hz and I don't hear it. Any ideas?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Okay... So my QNIX is making this high pitched noise when I have it at 120Hz. When I lower it, it either gets to the point where I don't hear it or it's just quieter. I have it at 96Hz and I don't hear it. Any ideas?


This is normal and is likely coming from the power brick or the PCB. You can usually here it even if your are at 60hz and on an all white screen. It is not going to brake anything and other monitors have the same noise at times(Asus in particular). Mine does the same thing at 120hz+ and it has caused no issues after 120hz 24/7 for 3 months.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Haha, just sold my VG278h on ebay today with the exact same intentions. Going for a Qnix qx2710. I'm really hoping that I don't notice input lag or ghosting in comparison after overclocking the monitor. I also really hope I end up with no dead pixels or major light bleeding.
> 
> Anyone suggest any specific ebay seller for the qx2710? I see dream-seller mentioned a lot but in the listing it says it comes with a type c power adapter that is the standard Korean adapter. Most other ebay sellers seem to included the appropriate adapter to wherever the monitor ships to.
> 
> Also I am looking for a matte version. I really don' t want to deal with any reflections. I don't see any of dream-sellers marked one way or another.


Green sum seems to be very good right now in taking care of bad monitors..They can all be hit and miss depending on there mood at the time..Since you are in the US maybe you should try these guys..

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Default.asp


----------



## pLuhhmm

Anyone know why Vsync is not working in CSGO? I have it turned on and my FPS will go to like 300. I have -freq 120 set in launch options too... I thought the game was running at 120Hz, but fraps is showing 120 FPS no matter the refresh rate if I have fps_max 120 on.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Green sum seems to be very good right now in taking care of bad monitors..They can all be hit and miss depending on there mood at the time..Since you are in the US maybe you should try these guys..
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Default.asp


Yea the only problem is that they are charging exactly what I was going to pay on ebay WITH a 3 year warranty. It would cost $380 to get the monitor and a 3 year warranty from them









Any reason why you would suggest them over ebay sellers? Are they known to grantee perfect monitors even though they are the same models sold else where?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Yea the only problem is that they are charging exactly what I was going to pay on ebay WITH a 3 year warranty. It would cost $380 to get the monitor and a 3 year warranty from them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any reason why you would suggest them over ebay sellers? Are they known to grantee perfect monitors even though they are the same models sold else where?


The only reason is there 30 day return policy..If you get a bad light bleed monitor or a few dead pixels from Korea you pretty much gotta deal with it or fix it yourself..With them if you get a bad one you can return it and get a new one..That's what website stats no one has had to do this yet so we don't know this from experience..


----------



## frankietown

how do we keep the test mode permanent? i rebooted and got stuck at black screen i believe because test mode wasnt turned on... i had to go to safe mode and fix it.


----------



## genidoi

Finally got it









No pixel problems, virtually no BLB, 115hz overclock. Very happy









The only problem was I got the wrong monitor, I originally ordered the Qnix but recieved the X-star, I didn't really mind (basically the same monitor minus the logo) but informed BCC anyway of the problem and they told me they would partially refund me $40, bringing the cost down to $280, which is awesome


----------



## 187x

Finally dream-seller has shipped my monitor, 4 days later after placing order can't complain, now I hope FedEx don't try to rip me off like UPS! lol jk
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominae*
> 
> Hi all. Read most of the thread after my old monitor decided to stop lighting up.
> 
> Bought a 27" QNIX from dream-seller a little over a week ago. No dead pixels, minor back light bleed from the bottom right ... overall pretty happy with it. I swapped the stand out for a VESA based desk stand I had sitting around and it works MUCH better than the wimpy little clear nub.
> 
> OC'd it with CRU to 120Mhz and through CCC on an AMD 7950. Didn't tinker with any specific settings at all, just flipped it to 120 and rebooted. Worked great, zero artifacts, no weird lines, etc.
> 
> Ran it like that for a few days, zero issues .... then I got the dreaded "video driver stopped responding but recovered" popup, and a couple minutes after the monitor went black. Blue LED in the bottom just blinked over and over. Changed cables ... no help ... rebooting ... no help. Had to borrow a monitor and set the QNIX as secondary and I was able to switch back to 60Mhz with CRU and it worked when I rebooted.
> 
> Tinkered some more with it and its working at 120 again ... fingers crossed it stays that way. lol .. first time overclocking a monitor, but I followed directions well enough on the first page.


Where do you get these VESA base stands at? I been looking for some and I haven't got very successful and I seen some youtube videos where people got these vesa stands attached to the back of the monitor without taking off the bezel.


----------



## fragamemnon

Stop this thread.. Why you do this to me.







I have to save up money. You make this impossible.


----------



## jonnylaris

I asked a few questions via email to ipsledmonitors.com. For anyone who is interested here is what they said:

Hi, Do you offer pixel perfect monitors? I am a graphic designer and need a monitor with zero dead / stuck pixels. If this is something that you can guarantee I will most certainly place an order with you.
Quote:


> Hi Jonny,
> 
> We understand your concerns. Unfortunately, "pixel perfect" is a myth that Korean ebay sellers have invented to get more money. There is no manufacturer that can guarantee 100% zero pixel defects on their products, not even Dell or ASUS. If someone is claiming to sell only pixel perfect monitors, they are likely being dishonest. We would rather take the high-road and acknowledge that there is a rare chance a monitor could develop a dead/stuck pixel.
> 
> All of our monitors are inspected before they are sealed in the OEM packaging. We cannot reopen sealed OEM products for a second inspection due to our merchant account agreement.
> 
> If you are very concerned about monitor quality, I can advise you that we received a new shipment of x-star DP2710 monitors and the quality has been excellent; zero defects sold thus far.
> 
> Again, we appreciate your interest in our monitors. Please let us know if you have additional questions.
> 
> Thanks,


So what happens if I get a monitor with 5 dead pixels, I'm screwed right? It's a big risk for me, some companies offer a pixel checking service where they will open the box and inspect the monitor before its shipped. This isn't a new thing it's been around for a long time.

I would be willing to pay more for this service if you offered it. I have heard that some of the Korean sellers on eBay offer this.
Quote:


> Hi Jonny,
> 
> I completely understand. We are aware of the ebay "pixel perfect" test service that is offered. Unfortunately, many have ordered "pixel perfect" tested monitors from these sellers and received rows of dead pixels. It's pretty well publicized amongst the monitor enthusiast forums that ebay sellers are not performing the tests that they claim, and returns on such items do not appear to be supported. We encourage you to research your seller thoroughly.
> 
> You are free to pursue a pixel perfect tested monitor on ebay, but it's not in our business to misrepresent products to our customers. We hope that you see value in our honesty and our customer support.


Is there no chance that you can open one of the boxes before shipping it?
Quote:


> We simply do not have the time or the staff to reopen each of our monitors and perform these tests, we are now shipping 20-30 monitors/day and supplies are limited. Moreover pixel and backlight test can be completely subjective (often a dead pixel ends up being a speck dust).
> 
> If you absolutely must inspect your monitor before purchasing, we recommend you buy from a local shop where you can see it in person. Sorry, we hope you understand.


So I'm not sure if its worth the risk for anyone outside US ordering from them as postage costs would inhibit me being able to send them it back for replacement. Pondering what to do now, I'm in a bit of a pickle!


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnylaris*
> 
> I asked a few questions via email to ipsledmonitors.com. For anyone who is interested here is what they said:


Thanks for that info. I'm most likely going to place an order from them this week. I was successfully able to convince my dad to buy me a QX2710 in trade for my u2711. Everybody wins lol


----------



## bhazard451

After a few months, my QNIX is still going strong. Looks like they last.

I don't use 96hz and 120hz much anymore, because the patched drivers kills the ability to do hardware acceleration for mkv and 3D Blu-rays off my system, which I use to watch videos all the time connected to my HDTV.

If I could have both on all the time, things would be awesome.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I have been back at 60Hz for a few weeks now since I reinstalled Windows. Will overclock again but I can't get such high frames in most games I play anyway. Also, I am very used to the stock brightness level by now and I will really be able to perceive/judge how much it darkens with higher Hz.


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Yea the only problem is that they are charging exactly what I was going to pay on ebay WITH a 3 year warranty. It would cost $380 to get the monitor and a 3 year warranty from them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any reason why you would suggest them over ebay sellers? Are they known to grantee perfect monitors even though they are the same models sold else where?


The reason I went with them is that I just prefer to have a return label that's in the US. And they'll cover return shipping. Also, don't get their 3 year warranty, get Squaretrade's who will either replace the monitor or give you a check in the amount you paid.


----------



## moxx

Where can I get the black electrical tape in Germany? Anyone got me a link from the US or sth. so I know from what manufacturer it is?


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> The reason I went with them is that I just prefer to have a return label that's in the US. And they'll cover return shipping. Also, don't get their 3 year warranty, get Squaretrade's who will either replace the monitor or give you a check in the amount you paid.


Made the gamble and decided to stick with ebay. I just bought the qnix qx2170 off of accessorieswhole. I also purchased the 3 year squaretrade warranty so I should be good to go. Not too shabby of a deal with a final price of $332.

I have saw more than one post saying that accessorieswhole sent them a x-star instead of qnix so we will see what turns up in the mail. I'm just hopping for no dead pixels and atleast a fixable backlight issue. I guess that's what anyone is hoping for purchasing one of these though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moxx*
> 
> Where can I get the black electrical tape in Germany? Anyone got me a link from the US or sth. so I know from what manufacturer it is?


Is this to fix the backlight issue? I'm pretty sure any standard electrical tape will work fine.


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Yea I just bought the qnix qx2170 off of accessorieswhole. I also purchased the 3 year squaretrade warranty so I should be good to go. Not to shabby of a deal with a final price of $332.
> 
> I have saw more than one post saying that accessorieswhole sent them a x-star instead of qnix so we will see what turns up in the mail. I'm just hopping for no dead pixels and atleast a fixable backlight issue. I guess that's what anyone is hoping for purchasing one of these though


Fingers crossed haha. That person also got $40 back so maybe it's time to hope for a X Star? It'll be the same monitor either way haha.


----------



## moxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Is this to fix the backlight issue? I'm pretty sure any standard electrical tape will work fine.


Yes, please link me one....!


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moxx*
> 
> Yes, please link me one....!


google man, google.


----------



## Vultz

Hey guys just wanted to share my experience. I bought my qnix from http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/. So far works really good no dead pixels but there is a little bit of backlight bleed in the bottom left corner. Its not that noticeable unless I look at it when I'm watching a movie, but when I play a game I barely notice it at all. Looks like the monitor came from dream-seller as there was a note from him. I know it costs extra to buy from ipsledmonitors but looks like you will get a good monitor from them with a good return policy and warranty if you get it.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> google man, google.







There's a whole youtube tutorial on how to take your monitor apart.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Made the gamble and decided to stick with ebay. I just bought the qnix qx2170 off of accessorieswhole. I also purchased the 3 year squaretrade warranty so I should be good to go. Not too shabby of a deal with a final price of $332.
> 
> I have saw more than one post saying that accessorieswhole sent them a x-star instead of qnix so we will see what turns up in the mail. I'm just hopping for no dead pixels and atleast a fixable backlight issue. I guess that's what anyone is hoping for purchasing one of these though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this to fix the backlight issue? I'm pretty sure any standard electrical tape will work fine.


$20 says all these guys are running low on QNIX and are shipping X-stars to fulfill the orders. It's probably easier than telling everyone they're out of stock and losing the sale to some other seller. They are identical monitors (aside from an apparent mounting screw), but it's hard to convince the average buyer; most people see the majority of people bought QNIX and they want the same.


----------



## Dominae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> Finally dream-seller has shipped my monitor, 4 days later after placing order can't complain, now I hope FedEx don't try to rip me off like UPS! lol jk
> Where do you get these VESA base stands at? I been looking for some and I haven't got very successful and I seen some youtube videos where people got these vesa stands attached to the back of the monitor without taking off the bezel.


You can find stands in a few places .. I had checked NewEgg for example (searched for "vesa desk stand") but I didn't want to pay $40 for one.

So I actually took the stand off my old HP w2408h that died. Its a vesa mount and just took a little home-tinkering to get it to fit right.


----------



## stubinator

Hey just joined, thinking about picking up a Korean PLS shortly. Seems like the x-star and qnix are interchangeable, I guess I should just flip a coin lol. Can anyone tell me if it's safe to overclock? I heard about Image Retention but aren't some of you worried the monitor will die sooner if it's displaying at 96Hz or 120Hz?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubinator*
> 
> Hey just joined, thinking about picking up a Korean PLS shortly. Seems like the x-star and qnix are interchangeable, I guess I should just flip a coin lol. Can anyone tell me if it's safe to overclock? I heard about Image Retention but aren't some of you worried the monitor will die sooner if it's displaying at 96Hz or 120Hz?


Please read over the OP FAQ section for a lot of your answers. Also search the thread for "burn in" and you will find a ton of info and repeat info and repeat info and repeat info on this subject. Also in terms of life span, no-one overclocking has reported early failure yet other than some very far and few in between odd bail reports (not enough to warrant attention/worry).


----------



## stubinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Please read over the OP FAQ section for a lot of your answers. Also search the thread for "burn in" and you will find a ton of info and repeat info and repeat info and repeat info on this subject. Also in terms of life span, no-one overclocking has reported early failure yet other than some very far and few in between odd bail reports (not enough to warrant attention/worry).


Sorry, my bad. There's a ton of good info in the OP that just blew past. Thanks for the info on OC effecting lifespan


----------



## wrigleyvillain

You certainly are not the first (understatement of the thread); people just don't even think of it for some reason so at least you looked at it to start. Yes this is not real "burn-in" in the traditional sense and most don't get it all.


----------



## Alershka

New Member. Just got my X-Star yesterday. Ordered on Sunday, arrived on Wednesday. No issues. Very happy.

XFX Radeon HD 6950 with AMD Phenom X4 975 3.6 OC to 4.0 ghz. with air cooling


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Alright, finally got my monitor today. UPS Korea changed the value and sorted it out with US UPS.

So far so good with this monitor. Just tested to see if I have any dead/stuck pixels and I'm 100% pixel perfect. The only problem is the back-light bleed on the top, bottom and right side.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> Alright, finally got my monitor today. UPS Korea changed the value and sorted it out with US UPS.
> 
> So far so good with this monitor. Just tested to see if I have any dead/stuck pixels and I'm 100% pixel perfect. The only problem is the back-light bleed on the top, bottom and right side.


Have you tried loosening the bottom middle screws to see if it helps with the bottom BLB?


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Have you tried loosening the bottom middle screws to see if it helps with the bottom BLB?


Thanks, I just tried that and it worked great. The bottom BLB is gone now, but there is still the top and right side BLB.


----------



## Outlawed

edit: stupid thinking


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> I'm having to use a dynex 26" 720p tv since I had to sell my current monitor for this process.
> 
> While the resolution is terrible I believe the response time is 6.5ms, compared to the 2ms on my previous monitor. It feels freaking horrible. I can really feel how delayed it is. The qx2710 is 6ms.
> 
> So while everyone on the 120hz to isp argument says "just overclock it and have the best of both" is false. I guess I knew this going in but I just wanted to note how profound it is on this tv. I have played exclusively on the 120hz monitor for over a year so that might be why the difference seems so strong.
> 
> I am basing all of this off a tv that could somehow have a longer response time. Only time will tell now. Even so it is starting to make me doubt selling my vg278h.


What delay are you talking about?Input lag?

Response times are just a number the manufacture makes up pretty much..Just like there 4 billion to 1 contrast ratio numbers..The viewsonic VP2770 is rated at 12ms and its pixel response is faster the ASUS PB278Q 5ms response time..

What are you seeing on TV more motion blur or input lag?


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> What delay are you talking about?Input lag?


Yea. It's kind of unfair that I am making this judgement off this monitor though. I'll see if I still feel the same way with the qnix.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Yea. It's kind of unfair that I am making this judgement off this monitor though. I'll see if I still feel the same way with the qnix.


So input lag is what you are talking about?Cause tvs have well over a 50ms input lag..Some are in the 120ms input lag..The response time is just how fast the pixels turn from grey 2 grey..


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> So input lag is what you are talking about?Cause tvs have well over a 50ms input lag..Some are in the 120ms input lag..The response time is just how fast the pixels turn from grey 2 grey..


Well then I am glad my logic was wrong. Thanks for the enlightenment.


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Just followed the OC guide and got my Qnix to 120Hz successfully! The screen did darkened a little bit after the OC, is this normal?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Indeed it is, sir. Unfortunate but can be adjusted with software such as GPU control panel and/or ICC profiles in addition to the brightness button. As for that 11 to 15 clicks from the lowest is what most like under normal circumstances.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> Just followed the OC guide and got my Qnix to 120Hz successfully! The screen did darkened a little bit after the OC, is this normal?


yes the screen does get darker.. Use a 120hz icc profile from the first page to help with gamma..


----------



## RamenNoodles55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> yes the screen does get darker.. Use a 120hz icc profile from the first page to help with gamma..


Thanks a lot, just applied it and it looks great now.


----------



## bboyskinnylegs

just got my glossy X-Star today. Ordered it on Sunday. Had to pay ~$25 in brokerage/GST fees (based on a $90 marked value)

Very happy with the monitor, no dead pixels, no noticeable BLB during the daytime here (I'll have to see how it holds up at night). After using ToastyX's pixel clock patcher and CRU I confirmed I'm able to use this at 2560x1440 with an old HDMI -> DVI cable (single link) that I had at home. Looking to get another one of these to run off my 7850 card with dual link DVI.

Was able to overclock it as well, but I'm not sure if there would be any tangible benefits for me keeping it at the higher refresh rate since I don't game, I just need the extra screen real estate for trading.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Anyone know yet how to force my games into 120Hz?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Anyone know yet how to force my games into 120Hz?


Go to page 410 - 414. Read all of my posts.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Go to *page 410 - 414*. Read all of my posts.


wat

Where?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> wat
> 
> Where?


Nevermind searching escapes many people.

1. install the catleap driver
2. Use CRU to set 120hz rather than using NVCP
3. This makes the resolution a "native" resolution rather than a custom one and puts it into your EDID
4. Re-install your video drivers
5. in the NVCP go to 3D settings and there is an option called "preferred refresh rate"
6. set it to "highest available" and BAM 120hz (this option will not show up unless you used CRU for your overclock as it has to be in the EDID as native)

EDIT: this is only for games that do NOT have any refresh rate option.


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RamenNoodles55*
> 
> Just followed the OC guide and got my Qnix to 120Hz successfully! The screen did darkened a little bit after the OC, is this normal?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bboyskinnylegs*
> 
> just got my glossy X-Star today. Ordered it on Sunday. Had to pay ~$25 in brokerage/GST fees (based on a $90 marked value)
> 
> Very happy with the monitor, no dead pixels, no noticeable BLB during the daytime here (I'll have to see how it holds up at night). After using ToastyX's pixel clock patcher and CRU I confirmed I'm able to use this at 2560x1440 with an old HDMI -> DVI cable (single link) that I had at home. Looking to get another one of these to run off my 7850 card with dual link DVI.
> 
> Was able to overclock it as well, but I'm not sure if there would be any tangible benefits for me keeping it at the higher refresh rate since I don't game, I just need the extra screen real estate for trading.


Any of you guys have image retention issues?


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> Any of you guys have image retention issues?


my qnix has retention issues at 120hz. it gets somewhat bad if i leave an image in the same place longer than 10 minutes.. two nights ago it took about 20 minutes for it to fade away after i switched back to 60hz.

ill try the cru to lower the pixel clock to experiment but it won't be until i update my drivers for the FFXIV retail release.


----------



## ZgunnerZ

So how do I actually overclock the refresh rate on these monitors?

I have the QX2710 and CCC (AMD GPUs), but the in CCC the max I can set the refresh rate to is 60hz. Do I need additional software?


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZgunnerZ*
> 
> So how do I actually overclock the refresh rate on these monitors?
> 
> I have the QX2710 and CCC (AMD GPUs), but the in CCC the max I can set the refresh rate to is 60hz. Do I need additional software?


Please read the first post, it has all the information you need!

So I got my tracking number from IPSLEDMONITORS and it seems like they just have a deal with the Korean monitor guys because my order is coming from there, directly to me. Should still be here in a couple of days


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZgunnerZ*
> 
> So how do I actually overclock the refresh rate on these monitors?
> 
> I have the QX2710 and CCC (AMD GPUs), but the in CCC the max I can set the refresh rate to is 60hz. Do I need additional software?


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Please read the first post, it has all the information you need!
> 
> So I got my tracking number from IPSLEDMONITORS and it seems like they just have a deal with the Korean monitor guys because my order is coming from there, directly to me. Should still be here in a couple of days


Yup, mine shipped out from ebay seller accessorieswhole today. It's scheduled to arrive monday!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alershka*
> 
> New Member. Just got my X-Star yesterday. Ordered on Sunday, arrived on Wednesday. No issues. Very happy.
> 
> XFX Radeon HD 6950 with AMD Phenom X4 975 3.6 OC to 4.0 ghz. with air cooling


Verified. Thanks.
Phenom II x4 FTW









also, new member entry for member TrainXIII has been temporarily removed, no picture verification.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominae*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> Finally dream-seller has shipped my monitor, 4 days later after placing order can't complain, now I hope FedEx don't try to rip me off like UPS! lol jk
> Where do you get these VESA base stands at? I been looking for some and I haven't got very successful and I seen some youtube videos where people got these vesa stands attached to the back of the monitor without taking off the bezel.
> 
> 
> 
> You can find stands in a few places .. I had checked NewEgg for example (searched for "vesa desk stand") but I didn't want to pay $40 for one.
> 
> So I actually took the stand off my old HP w2408h that died. Its a vesa mount and just took a little home-tinkering to get it to fit right.
Click to expand...

In the OP, under "Good Replacement Monitor Stands" expendable section:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3720_30#post_20298237

$22 OEM HP vesa desk mount with all the bells and whistles. brand new


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You certainly are not the first (understatement of the thread); people just don't even think of it for some reason so at least you looked at it to start. Yes this is not real "burn-in" in the traditional sense and most don't get it all.


at the start of the OP....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> *NEW MEMBERS: PLEASE READ THROUGH THIS POST, ESPECIALLY THE FAQ*
> Many of your questions can be answered there, rather than being asked about again and again in the thread.


Should I make it red lettering or...?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> at the start of the OP....
> Should I make it red lettering or...?


Red lettering and maybe a bigger font LOL.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> at the start of the OP....
> Should I make it red lettering or...?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red lettering and maybe a bigger font LOL.
Click to expand...

here ahahaha. Next step up in font size is "7 - godzilla"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> *NEW MEMBERS: PLEASE READ THROUGH THIS POST, ESPECIALLY THE FAQ*
> Many of your questions can be answered there, rather than being asked about again and again in the thread.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> here ahahaha. Next step up in font size is "7 - godzilla"


I'm sorry that font just isn't big enough for me to read on my 27" 1440p monitor


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I wish you could set an option where someone would have to view the first post off the bat before the rest of the thread is visible.


----------



## wntrsnowg

yea that would be helpful to everyone. It would be better to figure out the two threads on the same subject issue though


----------



## supdubdup

When my QNIX/X-star arrives, what should I be checking for (to see if I should return it)?


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> When my QNIX/X-star arrives, what should I be checking for (to see if I should return it)?


It depends on where you bought it I believe. Some sellers seem to allow up to 5+ pixels for a good monitor. The one that I purchased has a 3 dead pixel max so I hope I have a better chance of getting a perfect one.

Overall it seems like the majority of the people here claim to have no dead pixels on arrival. So I think the odds are both in our favor.


----------



## dilloway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> When my QNIX/X-star arrives, what should I be checking for (to see if I should return it)?



http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php


1. Run through the different color screens to identify dead pixels.

2. Try to turn your monitor 10-12 clicks from the highest brightness setting and set to an all black screen and turn off that lights; that's the worst backlight bleed you should experience.

3. The bezels are really cheap so don't get too hung up on that, but occasionally people report that the panel doesn't sit right in the bezel (that's definitely a problem).

4. Turn the monitor off and on several times, make sure that it powers on consistently.

5. Check for PWM flickering when the monitor is set at your preferred brightness level.

6. Test the Speakers? Has anyone actually used the speakers in these things? lol


----------



## burmjohn

Two quick questions, just got my monitor yesterday and set it up.

First was with CRU - I followed the instructions and the custom settings / hz are still not showing in the nvidia control panel. (yes, in test mode and did the full patcher). I was able to set a custom profile in the nvidia control panel to get to 96 and 120hz. Is there any difference in using CRU and the Nvidia stuff? Any idea why the other way is not working (I have the check box unchecked as well).

2nd question was related to this custom icc profile mentioned in the FAQ. I can't seem to find it on that site, does anyone have the actual link?
Quote:


> Personally, out of every calibration profile posted here, the Asus PB278Q V3.icc looked the best on my monitor, and is a favorite for others as well.


----------



## jjmirks

My beautiful QNIX QX2710!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjmirks*
> 
> My beautiful QNIX QX2710!


How you like the glossy screen?


----------



## jjmirks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> How you like the glossy screen?


I never thought I would get a glossy screen, but I thought I'd give it a shot to get the richest colors I can on this beauty and now that I have it I really like it. As long as there are no lights directly behind me at least









It would be nice to see someone who has both side by side though...


----------



## McLaren_F1

Im having "burn in" problems







Or is this burn in? happens after 30mins of usage. OC'ed to 96

It doesnt bother me that much only visible when at the home deskop with a bright wallpaper


----------



## wntrsnowg

Thanks jjmirks. welcome!


----------



## ucantescape1992

I have burn in problems too. OC'd to 120hz.

Anyone know if there's a way to stop this from happening (probably not).

I know it goes away, but is there any way this could every damage the panel / become permanent?

And reverting back to 60Hz while browzing isn't really an option. I can't stand the way the mouse feels.


----------



## supdubdup

Overclocking causes burn-in? O.O


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> Overclocking causes burn-in? O.O


In my research I have yet to come across a case that was permanent, but yes.

It seems on average people start to see image retention when in OC'd to around 120hz but are fine at 100hz or so.


----------



## OneGun

It is not burn in like with a TV..It is frame retention and the only way to make sure you don't get it is to only game while OCed.Other then that it is something you will have to deal with if you want a 24/7 OC..

And you will get it even at 96hz unfortunately..I run 60hz unless i am playing BF3..Then i am at 120..Main reason is i don't want to deal with frame retention..


----------



## andygully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilloway*
> 
> 
> http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php
> 
> 
> 1. Run through the different color screens to identify dead pixels.
> 
> 2. Try to turn your monitor 10-12 clicks from the highest brightness setting and set to an all black screen and turn off that lights; that's the worst backlight bleed you should experience.
> 
> 3. The bezels are really cheap so don't get too hung up on that, but occasionally people report that the panel doesn't sit right in the bezel (that's definitely a problem).
> 
> 4. Turn the monitor off and on several times, make sure that it powers on consistently.
> 
> 5. Check for PWM flickering when the monitor is set at your preferred brightness level.
> 
> 6. Test the Speakers? Has anyone actually used the speakers in these things? lol


I tried the speakers...................... for 1 minute then put my headset back on


----------



## genidoi

Anybody with overclocked AMD cards and this monitor OC'd to ~120hz having the following problem?

I'm using a 7950 overclocked at 1200/1500/1.2v using afterburner and the problem is the voltage is locked at 1.2v regardless whether in 2D or 3D mode. This essentially means the card idles at 55c, not a huge problem but I'd like it to be low at idle. Anyway, did some research and found this: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=360118

Basically if you have a high res 120hz display OR multi-display system using a single card, apparently your card will think its in 3D mode and thereby use 3D clocks/voltages at idle. That thread has a solution for nvidia users, but I'm not sure wether its useable for AMD. (don't want to stuff anything up).

Anybody with an AMD card and one of these PLS displays OC'd to 120hz with a graphics card overclock mind posting a GPU-Z screenshot at idle including temps/Possible solution...

Cheers


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> I tried the speakers...................... for 1 minute then put my headset back on


+1 on that i do not know of many monitors with very good build in speakers definitely nothing that can beat a half way decent headset.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Anybody with an AMD card and one of these PLS displays OC'd to 120hz with a graphics card overclock mind posting a GPU-Z screenshot at idle including temps/Possible solution...


I think I will be overclocking again later today (reinstalled Windows recently and didn't bother again yet) so can do. OneMoar runs 7950 Crossfire and Im sure others can pipe in too.

This is ringing a vague bell but I am pretty certain it doesn't affect all and/or there is a solution.


----------



## jjmirks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> I tried the speakers...................... for 1 minute then put my headset back on


I did the exact same


----------



## frankietown

anyone know why it went to black screen after a reboot?

can i expect the test mode to always be on when i do a reboot?


----------



## atomicmew

JUst unboxed a perfect pixel Qnix from greem sum ($310). Very minor backlight bleed towards the center bottom, but not noticeable in desktop mode.

Haven't played around with overclocking yet.

Once again, I can't believe how good a deal these monitors are (i've also owned a shimian which I sold earlier). They're in every respect just as good as the Dell U2312's at work. I continue to laugh at folks who spend 2-3x as much for a comparable name brand monitor that is actually worse in some respects.


----------



## ucantescape1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Anybody with overclocked AMD cards and this monitor OC'd to ~120hz having the following problem?
> 
> I'm using a 7950 overclocked at 1200/1500/1.2v using afterburner and the problem is the voltage is locked at 1.2v regardless whether in 2D or 3D mode. This essentially means the card idles at 55c, not a huge problem but I'd like it to be low at idle. Anyway, did some research and found this: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=360118
> 
> Basically if you have a high res 120hz display OR multi-display system using a single card, apparently your card will think its in 3D mode and thereby use 3D clocks/voltages at idle. That thread has a solution for nvidia users, but I'm not sure wether its useable for AMD. (don't want to stuff anything up).
> 
> Anybody with an AMD card and one of these PLS displays OC'd to 120hz with a graphics card overclock mind posting a GPU-Z screenshot at idle including temps/Possible solution...
> 
> Cheers


Both Core and Memory voltage will stay pegged at max when overclocked. I'm pretty sure with AMD this is just the way things are. What really matters is what your idle frequencies are. At idle my core is at 500MHz while overclocked, and my memory is at max.

If your core frequency is maxed while overclocked, make sure you have "Reduce DVI Frequency" Enabled in CCC. Its under My Digital Flat Panels > Properties (Digital Flat Panel) > DVI Settings at the bottom.

Make sure that in CRU you used "Automatic LCD Reduced".

These settings should make the refresh rate a little easier on the card, and bring your idle temps down. If they don't, I wouldn't worry about it. That is a high idle but nothing that is going to hurt your card.

Here's my OC'd 7950 at idle with monitor @ 120Hz. Card is watercooled.


----------



## ucantescape1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankietown*
> 
> anyone know why it went to black screen after a reboot?
> 
> can i expect the test mode to always be on when i do a reboot?


I assume you're using CRU. There should only be one detailed resolution listed when you start the utility for the first time, should be 59.950 Hz. Don't touch this one. Add another detailed resolution, use "Automatic - LCD Reduced" for 120hz. Make another for 96Hz, just in case you find your monitor can't do 120. Now using the arrows make 120 first on the list, 96 second, and 59 third. Now exit the utility and reboot. Your new refresh rates should be visible after rebooting.

I don't know what would cause a black screen after rebooting if you've done everything right. Sometimes if I reboot while set to 120, it'll be back to 60 when my computer restarts. Lately it's been sticking with 120. I've never had black screen issues though.

You might just want to wipe everything and start fresh. Do this by running the reset-all tool included with CRU as admin and then reboot. If you have an AMD card, make sure you have the option "Reduce DVI Frequency" checked when running OC'd refresh rates.

As far as the Test Mode watermark goes, I haven't found a way to disable it in Windows 8. I've tried every method out there and none worked for me, so I just live with it.


----------



## frankietown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> I assume you're using CRU. There should only be one detailed resolution listed when you start the utility for the first time, should be 59.950 Hz. Don't touch this one. Add another detailed resolution, use "Automatic - LCD Reduced" for 120hz. Make another for 96Hz, just in case you find your monitor can't do 120. Now using the arrows make 120 first on the list, 96 second, and 59 third. Now exit the utility and reboot. Your new refresh rates should be visible after rebooting.
> 
> I don't know what would cause a black screen after rebooting if you've done everything right. Sometimes if I reboot while set to 120, it'll be back to 60 when my computer restarts. Lately it's been sticking with 120. I've never had black screen issues though.
> 
> You might just want to wipe everything and start fresh. Do this by running the reset-all tool included with CRU as admin and then reboot. If you have an AMD card, make sure you have the option "Reduce DVI Frequency" checked when running OC'd refresh rates.
> 
> As far as the Test Mode watermark goes, I haven't found a way to disable it in Windows 8. I've tried every method out there and none worked for me, so I just live with it.


thank you. yah its weird, like it was 120 hz stable, then a reboot later its weird. ill try that lcd reduced thing though thank you! i hope that fixes it.

edit: nvm it still blackscreens







i got it to work before, but now its just giving me a black screen how lame!


----------



## topthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> I assume you're using CRU. There should only be one detailed resolution listed when you start the utility for the first time, should be 59.950 Hz. Don't touch this one. Add another detailed resolution, use "Automatic - LCD Reduced" for 120hz. Make another for 96Hz, just in case you find your monitor can't do 120. Now using the arrows make 120 first on the list, 96 second, and 59 third. Now exit the utility and reboot. Your new refresh rates should be visible after rebooting.
> 
> I don't know what would cause a black screen after rebooting if you've done everything right. Sometimes if I reboot while set to 120, it'll be back to 60 when my computer restarts. Lately it's been sticking with 120. I've never had black screen issues though.
> 
> You might just want to wipe everything and start fresh. Do this by running the reset-all tool included with CRU as admin and then reboot. If you have an AMD card, make sure you have the option "Reduce DVI Frequency" checked when running OC'd refresh rates.
> 
> As far as the Test Mode watermark goes, I haven't found a way to disable it in Windows 8. I've tried every method out there and none worked for me, so I just live with it.


Hey do you know how to make it stay in 96 or 120hz when you reboot your computer? It's annoying to have to set it to my desired hz rate everytime I restart my computer...


----------



## ucantescape1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankietown*
> 
> thank you. yah its weird, like it was 120 hz stable, then a reboot later its weird. ill try that lcd reduced thing though thank you! i hope that fixes it.
> 
> edit: nvm it still blackscreens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i got it to work before, but now its just giving me a black screen how lame!


Did you reset all? Also have you patched your drivers and disabled driver signature verification?


----------



## ucantescape1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *topthis*
> 
> Hey do you know how to make it stay in 96 or 120hz when you reboot your computer? It's annoying to have to set it to my desired hz rate everytime I restart my computer...


I really don't know how mine managed to stay in 120hz after a while. Maybe it just realizes after a while that that's what you want lol. From time to time it will still revert to 60Hz for me.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> I really don't know how mine managed to stay in 120hz after a while. Maybe it just realizes after a while that that's what you want lol. From time to time it will still revert to 60Hz for me.


I thought the default is whatever is the highest in CRU.


----------



## frankietown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Did you reset all? Also have you patched your drivers and disabled driver signature verification?


okay so after testing it, i guess 120hz wasn't stable. i tried doing it through the nvidia control panel and only 96hz was allowable.

is it because of the video card? i have a 780 coming, but i have been doing this with a gt620. if its a video card thing, then there is still hope for 120hz!


----------



## topthis

Guys I have a question so I have a second monitor (my old one since I just recently bought a QNIX glossy) and it can only do 60hz and doing tests to see the difference which I easily can, the second monitor (60hz) goes actually SLOWER than 60hz it seems when I put my QNIX to 96hz. So while the main monitor is 96hz my second monitor is all choppy or choppier than 60hz (I don't know if its trying to run 96hz or something). Help?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> I thought the default is whatever is the highest in CRU.


Correct.


----------



## RB Snake

I've had my Qnix for a few months now and for some reason now after adding a second 680 it's just stopped working, when it's plugged in the monitor just flashes different colours in a continuous cycle. It's now recognized as "Digital Display" in the Nvidia control panel, I'm unable to set the native resolution it's stuck at 800x600. It's definitly not the cable or any driver problems as I've tried a new cable and properly re-installed all the drivers disabling and re-enabling SLI and tried each card individually. Here is a vid of what it's doing: 



Would be thankful for any help.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RB Snake*
> 
> I've had my Qnix for a few months now and for some reason now after adding a second 680 it's just stopped working, when it's plugged in the monitor just flashes different colours in a continuous cycle. It's now recognized as "Digital Display" in the Nvidia control panel, I'm unable to set the native resolution it's stuck at 800x600. It's definitly not the cable or any driver problems as I've tried a new cable and properly re-installed all the drivers disabling and re-enabling SLI and tried each card individually. Here is a vid of what it's doing:
> 
> 
> 
> Would be thankful for any help.


Try it as a secondary monitor and then try and manipulate the resolution. It has worked for me in a couple past binds.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Got an X-Star a week ago. It's just amazing. There is a little bit of back light bleed at the bottom, but it's not noticeable at all. Got it during a sale on Ebay @ 280$ for glossy. It wasn't pixel perfect, but there are no dead pixels.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Got an X-Star a week ago. It's just amazing. There is a little bit of back light bleed at the bottom, but it's not noticeable at all. Got it during a sale on Ebay @ 280$ for glossy. It wasn't pixel perfect, but there are no dead pixels.


Good to hear. For the price, these monitors are amazing. I don't think I can ever go back to 1080p


----------



## RB Snake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Try it as a secondary monitor and then try and manipulate the resolution. It has worked for me in a couple past binds.


Yeah, if I set it up as a secondary monitor then switch the DVI cables over it works. It still flashed the colours on bootup and it cant be used on it's own as the primary monitor. Oh well it's good enough for me. 2x 1440p monitors is awesome, I may have to get a third.


----------



## Spartan F8

Just an FYI, with the new 320.49 drivers the "texture filtering quality" setting absolutely kills performance if it is set on "high quality". The previous version worked fine at HQ but this one doesn't. Doesn't look really any different anyway. For example with it set to just quality i get 120fps with it set to HQ i get like 52fps(all other things equal). Hopefully this saves you guys the trouble of like 2 hours of "what the heel did i do?" session







.


----------



## moxx

my qx2710 isn't reconnecting when i wake my pc up from sleep. anyone got a workaround?

thx a lot


----------



## andy4theherd

i have an Acheiva Shimian 27" 2560x1440 monitor. i used the custom resolution setting in the Nvidia control panel to overclock it to 67hz. anything over 67hz does not work (screen has lines and other anomalies). would it be worth while to try the steps posted in the OP? what is the difference in using Nvidia's custom resolution tool and the process listed here?

thanks and apologies if this is answered somewhere in this 433 page thread...


----------



## szeged

Gonna be grabbing one more x star monitor, are the ones from amazon the same quality as the eBay seller? Was hoping I could get one from the big A this time.


----------



## L D4WG

My QC2710 arrived today along with my two 780's.

Quickly setting a custom resolution in th nvidia control panel and setting the refresh rate to 120hz worked however it caused red lines to shoot all across the screen, I dropped it down to 96hz and the lines are gone and it works well, nice and smooth.

I had a go at the OP's guide to overclocking to 120hz instead of 96 like the OP did, but no luck.

Any suggestions for 120hz? or should I just stick with 96?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Andy and D4wg-

Try CRU instead. You can choose things like "LCD Reduced" and even fine tune the frequency values further manually which very well could help. Kind of trial and error/hit or miss though--same as buying a new cable which is another potential option that could help.

Though a Shimian probably can't do much higher than 67.


----------



## Outlawed

Just got my QX2710! No dead pixels so pretty happy with it so far. It does have quite a bit of BLB on the bottom towards the left side and slight bit along the top. I tried prying back the monitor housing a little bit and it did not seem to change the BLB at all. I think this means the tape mod won't do anything right?

Also having problems with the overclocking. I went through the list in OP. Installed latest video drivers and installed the OC patch ( There were two version for nvidia, I ran teh full version). Then I ran the test mode utility and rebooted.

The bottom right hand indeed says "Test Mode." I installed CRU and followed the directions. Then I rebooted again and I am still seeing the stock refresh rates. I checked this via the nvidia control panel AND the windows monitor properties. I opened up CRU and all my custom values were all still there...











*FULL RES image*


----------



## L D4WG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Just got my QX2710! No dead pixels so pretty happy with it so far. It does have quite a bit of BLB on the bottom towards the left side and slight bit along the top. I tried prying back the monitor housing a little bit and it did not seem to change the BLB at all. I think this means the tape mod won't do anything right?
> 
> Also having problems with the overclocking. I went through the list in OP. Installed latest video drivers and installed the OC patch ( There were two version for nvidia, I ran teh full version). Then I ran the test mode utility and rebooted.
> 
> The bottom right hand indeed says "Test Mode." I installed CRU and followed the directions. Then I rebooted again and I am still seeing the stock refresh rates. I checked this via the nvidia control panel AND the windows monitor properties. I opened up CRU and all my custom values were all still there...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *FULL RES image*


I had to create a custom resolution in NCP, it didn't just appear for me.
I managed to get 110hz, if i go to 120 i get artifacts...


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG*
> 
> I had to create a custom resolution in NCP, it didn't just appear for me.
> I managed to get 110hz, if i go to 120 i get artifacts...


Awesome. Many thanks from a fellow sb-e advocate!









Anyway to test this out? Setting it via that method makes me hesitant on the fact that it truly is running at that refresh rate.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Awesome. Many thanks from a fellow sb-e advocate!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway to test this out? Setting it via that method makes me hesitant on the fact that it truly is running at that refresh rate.


Refresh rate multitool(the blinking black and white bars)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Uh I think they all should appear in the GPU CP refresh rate list now but you do need to move the higher Hz ones to the top in CRU. Topmost is the default Windows will choose each boot.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Planning on purchasing a QNIX matte this week, I'm so excited! Is there a DVI cable included, and if so how long?


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Refresh rate multitool(the blinking black and white bars)


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Planning on purchasing a QNIX matte this week, I'm so excited! Is there a DVI cable included, and if so how long?


Yes. It's a Dual Link DVI, which makes sense since it's needed. I think it's around 6' or so but I have yet to measure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Uh I think they all should appear in the GPU CP refresh rate list now but you do need to move the higher Hz ones to the top in CRU. Topmost is the default Windows will choose each boot.


Thanks! I actually figured that out slightly after posting but it still didn't solve the problem at the time. It was the custom settings in NCP that did it.


----------



## CptMuseLoL

Just got my QNIX from green-sum for $309. Extremely satisfied with its performance. No dead pixel as promised, minor glow on the side but no biggie.

Haven't try to overclock this baby yet.


----------



## OneGun

Alot of people getting there monitors today.. Don't forget guys to follow the OP to become members..


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Alot of people getting there monitors today.. Don't forget guys to follow the OP to become members..


Will do soon enough. Just want to have some solid time with my baby first









The sweet spot seems to be 105hz. Any decent color corrections for this OC?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Will do soon enough. Just want to have some solid time with my baby first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sweet spot seems to be 105hz. Any decent color corrections for this OC?


I use the Menacing Tuba 96hz ICC profile from the first page..And when at 120hz i use the 120hz ICC profile from this site..

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I use the Menacing Tuba 96hz ICC profile from the first page..And when at 120hz i use the 120hz ICC profile from this site..
> 
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117


I believe that's what I am currently running but I actually backed down the OC to the suggested 96hz to do so.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Made new profiles, changed the gamma curve from flat 2.2 to sRGB gamma which is the industry standard for use on monitors, printers, and the Internet.

60hz

96hz

Been using 2.2 for years until I tried using the sRGB gamma recently, dark details become easier to see and movies & TV shows look more natural.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Made new profiles, changed the gamma curve from flat 2.2 to sRGB gamma which is the industry standard for use on monitors, printers, and the Internet.
> 
> 60hz
> 
> 96hz
> 
> Been using 2.2 for years until I tried using the sRGB gamma recently, dark details become easier to see and movies & TV shows look more natural.


How many clicks of brightness should we use on these new ones?


----------



## szeged

can anyone tell me the difference between

http://www.amazon.com/X-Star-DP2710-LED-2560x1440-DVI-Dual/dp/B00CB8RQ2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373924240&sr=1-5&keywords=x+star+monitor

and

http://www.amazon.com/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Perfect-Pixel/dp/B00CB93WTY/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373924240&sr=1-9&keywords=x+star+monitor

was gonna grab one of them for my gf to use but havent bought from amazon before, was just wondering if there was something i should know about them before i get one.

i know one is supposedly perfect pixel, but is there anything else thats different?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> How many clicks of brightness should we use on these new ones?


Same/doesn't matter


----------



## Moragg

SRGB is a gamma of 2.2 but with a linear part at the dark end. It assumes a perfect black which is far from true with these monitors.

The linear part would mean darker parts are lighter with a SRGB profile, but for "true" accuracy you wouldn't want to do so without taking an ambient light measurement first. This is because stuff is produced at studio light levels (very high) and watched in relatively much lower light levels. So a gamma expansion of 1.1 is needed to make the content look as intended.

2.2^1.1 is roughly 2.4, which is why a gamma of 2.4 is recommended for SRGB playback, but if you can use SRGB profile with a light measurement so it can accurately calibrate for the SRGB standard.

And then it turns out photos are actually encoded with a gamma of 2.2, so if you want those to look right you need a different profile.









And movies are encoded with Rec.709

And RAW photos with 1.0

And most applications aren't properly colour managed either.

At which point I gave up and did mine at 2.2







which seemed like a decent compromise for most stuff.
Only thing everywhere agreed on was 120cd/m2 for brightness - 10 clicks from bottom - and I recently tried turning back up to full and that burnt my bright.


----------



## TrainXIII

Hi, I recently bought the Qnix monitor and everything runs fine no problem. However I noticed that the power brick that it came with becomes extremely hot to the point where I can't keep my palm on it without pulling it away. I'm not sure if this is safe or not. I have a couple adapters from random laptop chargers that I have and was wondering if it would be okay to use any of them (probably not) but I would like to make sure in case.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrainXIII*
> 
> Hi, I recently bought the Qnix monitor and everything runs fine no problem. However I noticed that the power brick that it came with becomes extremely hot to the point where I can't keep my palm on it without pulling it away. I'm not sure if this is safe or not. I have a couple adapters from random laptop chargers that I have and was wondering if it would be okay to use any of them (probably not) but I would like to make sure in case.


Honestly this happens with lots of networking equipment. At my work we have a TON of cisco routers that have power bricks that get so hot you can't touch them. These devices still last years without issue. I can understand your worrying though. I didn't like mine getting so hot either so i put it on a small metal heat rack/shelf. This should be sufficient but one could always heat bind an old CPU cooler to it LOL.


----------



## Moragg

Are you leaving it on your carpet? If it really concerns you try leaving it on a smooth surface.

And if you just got it, try installing some ICC profiles from the first post and turning your monitor's brightness way down. That could reduce power consumption and temps, and save your eyes









My X-Star's power brick is different - brand is Teka (never heard of it) and is rated to 1.4A max input, but output is identical. Different input maybe because I'm in the UK?
Your laptop chargers are fine if they have the same input/output ratings as your Qnix's brick. Output is should be identical or you could damage the monitor.


----------



## szeged

Time to install an old h100 to the power brick









That would be a mod worth posting lol


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can anyone tell me the difference between
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/X-Star-DP2710-LED-2560x1440-DVI-Dual/dp/B00CB8RQ2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373924240&sr=1-5&keywords=x+star+monitor
> 
> and
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Perfect-Pixel/dp/B00CB93WTY/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373924240&sr=1-9&keywords=x+star+monitor
> 
> was gonna grab one of them for my gf to use but havent bought from amazon before, was just wondering if there was something i should know about them before i get one.
> 
> i know one is supposedly perfect pixel, but is there anything else thats different?


One seems to be a pixel perfect version. However, in my experience, pixel perfect doesn't really exist and most of the time they're not even screened. Seeing as they're the same price however, I'd go for the pixel perfect to insure replacement if there were to be a dead pixel.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Time to install an old h100 to the power brick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be a mod worth posting lol


Reminds me of when my old laptop was overheating within minutes of booting. My solution was to rest it on ice packs which I constantly cycled


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> One seems to be a pixel perfect version. However, in my experience, pixel perfect doesn't really exist and most of the time they're not even screened. Seeing as they're the same price however, I'd go for the pixel perfect to insure replacement if there were to be a dead pixel.


One of the only reasons to get a perfect pixel is if your are going to get a square trade warranty with it. This is because the square trade warranty is relative to the sellers credentials for a panel to be in an acceptable condition. If you get a PP model and get a square trade the SQ warranty would then in tern cover the PP credentials thus covering dead pixels. Do remember that PP does NOT cover bright, dark and stuck pixels ONLY dead. So if the panel was not even screened and the PP was purchased along side the square trade it would be covered by square trade and an ebay seller battle would not have to ensue.

Just a little devil advocate.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Time to install an old h100 to the power brick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be a mod worth posting lol


On a serious note i was thinking about something like opening the power brick and putting heat sync material on whatever is causing all the heat. Could even cut a square out the top and have the heat sync protrude out the top slightly. All-in-all it is not worth the trouble, put it on a wire rack or shelf and let it be hot(like we do on thousands of retail shops with their Cisco router power adapters)


----------



## szeged

Or just point a fan at it for a few minutes every hour or so.


----------



## Ilovecomputer

Didn't know you could get a 27 inch monitor for so cheap, I love gaming on PC. I'll have to look into this


----------



## 187x

I got my Qnix monitor today, it looks pretty bad ass, I haven't been able to try it out yet because I gotta get a new video card yet. Stand is a little wobbly and it doesn't tilt forward much but that's ok I hope to get everything running soon!


----------



## monkeys

Both my Qnix are a touch different, one goes to complete darkness, the other not.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Honestly this happens with lots of networking equipment. At my work we have a TON of cisco routers that have power bricks that get so hot you can't touch them. These devices still last years without issue. I can understand your worrying though. I didn't like mine getting so hot either so i put it on a small metal heat rack/shelf. This should be sufficient but one could always heat bind an old CPU cooler to it LOL.


They can ship with different 'power bricks', some warmer than others, 1 warmer (warm but not hot) than the other which is not that warm.

My 18.4" laptop brick can v run hot but been using it for a while with no ill effects


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Reminds me of when my old laptop was overheating within minutes of booting. My solution was to rest it on ice packs which I constantly cycled


Surely thats more dangerous + hassle ?


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrainXIII*
> 
> Hi, I recently bought the Qnix monitor and everything runs fine no problem. However I noticed that the power brick that it came with becomes extremely hot to the point where I can't keep my palm on it without pulling it away. I'm not sure if this is safe or not. I have a couple adapters from random laptop chargers that I have and was wondering if it would be okay to use any of them (probably not) but I would like to make sure in case.


You could always watercool your PSU. Especially if you already have a loop.


----------



## Iggg

Hello everyone,
After many days of reading this massive thread I finally pulled the trigger on 3 X-Star monitors from dream-seller perfect pixel & matte.
Ordered on Friday evening and arrived Monday, impressive shipping speed.

The monitors was indeed perfect, no dead pixel with minimal backlight bleeding. There was a note inside each box indicating that they had
checked the screen for defects.

I've loaded the 60hz icc profile that someone had posted in this thread, outside of that, are there any other calibration to be done?

Next up, will be painting the bezel matte and taking off that hideous nubbing.


----------



## L D4WG

So ive had my QX2710 for two days now.

The back light bleed is horrible, and the tape method didn't fix it.

I have also just noticed my Firefox Google search box is burnt into the screen, when I close it down I can see it on the desktop background image...

So far not happy at all.


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iggg*


very nice!!!, you should debezel yours now, here's mine after:


(yeah I know I already posted this pic in the debezel thread)

another user on here (remmib) has an excellent thread of his method of debezeling.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG*
> 
> So ive had my QX2710 for two days now.
> 
> The back light bleed is horrible, and the tape method didn't fix it.
> 
> I have also just noticed my Firefox Google search box is burnt into the screen, when I close it down I can see it on the desktop background image...
> 
> So far not happy at all.


You have been running at 120 then? Regardless, that apparent burn in should not be permanent. And if the taping had no effect then you must not have done it right/in the correct spots. You physically removed, straightened and taped underneath the uncolored metal frame?

I also noticed it's now been 2.5 days since anyone posted in the 'other thread'. Keep it up!


----------



## L D4WG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You have been running at 120 then? Regardless, that apparent burn in should not be permanent. And if the taping had no effect then you must not have done it right/in the correct spots. You physically removed, straightened and taped underneath the uncolored metal frame?
> 
> I also noticed it's now been 2.5 days since anyone posted in the 'other thread'. Keep it up!


Yes i removed the metal frame down to the bare led panel, and taped onto the outer edges of the glass and wrapped it around on a right angle,
is there a good detailed guide i can look at?


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG*
> 
> Yes i removed the metal frame down to the bare led panel, and taped onto the outer edges of the glass and wrapped it around on a right angle,
> is there a good detailed guide i can look at?


Yea I was under the assumption that the tape mod was not a sure bet for guaranteed correction.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> You have been running at 120 then? Regardless, that apparent burn in should not be permanent. And if the taping had no effect then you must not have done it right/in the correct spots. You physically removed, straightened and taped underneath the uncolored metal frame?
> 
> I also noticed it's now been 2.5 days since anyone posted in the 'other thread'. Keep it up!


Also how did you get to 120hz? CRU? NVCP? When i immediately got my panel i just used the NVCP to overclock to 120hz and i was getting burn in. Afterwards having trouble getting games to use the 120hz refresh i used CRU to get to 120hz. Still getting burn in and some light shift(judder) i tried LCD reduced. After this i never saw burn in again and rarely saw light shift. I then went on to adjust the panel further to not only overclock higher but better uniformity by adjusting the CRU timing settings manually. Now i have no problems at all. Backlight bleed for me was fixed by the tape fix so another look might be worth while.

EDIT: If you have been running at 60hz and getting burn-in i would go for a refund or replacement.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Damn. Yeah I guess it is not a 'sure thing' but, frankly, the bleed situation seems to be a pretty obvious case of "cause and effect" where people can generally notice warps and such in the frame where the light bleeds through the most.

Good tip re. CRU + LCD Reduced possibly helping avoid image retention.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG*
> 
> Yes i removed the metal frame down to the bare led panel, and taped onto the outer edges of the glass and wrapped it around on a right angle,
> is there a good detailed guide i can look at?


Bleeds can be caused for different reasons. The tape mod only fixes light bleed. Where the lights are leaked through the side.

Other bleeds are caused by the metal frame itself. The metal frame needs to be bent/reformed. This has nothing to do with tape as it is the metal frame that is pushing against the LCD to create the light bleeds.

Others are created from the disformed LCD itself and will most likely not be fixable. In other words it is the layers in the LCD panel itself that is uneven and unless you intend to take away multiple layers in hopes to fix it... (i don't recommend this) it won't fix the bleed.

Most bleeds are fixed by either the tape mod or the bending of the frames though.


----------



## asuka10456

Has anyone figured out how to use HDMI with these monitors at Native Res? My X Star only has a DVI port. I'm wondering if someone found some sort of adapter that would work for HD 4600(onboard for i5 4670k)


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> Has anyone figured out how to use HDMI with these monitors at Native Res? My X Star only has a DVI port. I'm wondering if someone found some sort of adapter that would work for HD 4600(onboard for i5 4670k)


You need an active HDMI->DVI-D connector. These are expensive ($100) and don't OC as well as the alternative.

As someone said earlier, at that price you may as well get yourself a new GPU. I would definitely recommend this as you only have integrated graphics right now, even a cheap GPU should be a big improvement - e.g. a HD5450.

And if you can't fit one in your case you could buy a decent case and this GPU for less than the $100 for the adapter.


----------



## L D4WG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Bleeds can be caused for different reasons. The tape mod only fixes light bleed. Where the lights are leaked through the side.
> 
> Other bleeds are caused by the metal frame itself. The metal frame needs to be bent/reformed. This has nothing to do with tape as it is the metal frame that is pushing against the LCD to create the light bleeds.
> 
> Others are created from the disformed LCD itself and will most likely not be fixable. In other words it is the layers in the LCD panel itself that is uneven and unless you intend to take away multiple layers in hopes to fix it... (i don't recommend this) it won't fix the bleed.
> 
> Most bleeds are fixed by either the tape mod or the bending of the frames though.


If I push down on the panel around 4 inches to the left of the major bleed, it goes away.

I might need to spend more time taking it apart and see if I can bend it, the light bleed is just a killer for me, I cant not see it now, I have stuck pixels but they don't even bother me because the screen is so high res, you have to be right up close to see them and on a white screen.


----------



## DyslexicChciken

I originally intended on a catleap, but now I am leaning on QNIX. I have asked the same question on the catleap club page, but I just want to confirm the same thing here:

I have an HD5870 cypress XT graphics card which supposedly does not support QNIX or any of the cheap Korean 2560x1440 monitors. I see this guy use QNIX on a HD5850:






As you can see the monitor didn't start up until several seconds later.

I just want confirmation if anyone out there might have an HD5870 cypress XT or know of whether I will have any problems using it with a 2560x1440 QNIX monitor. The HD5870 supports dual DVI and has a graphics memory size of 1024 MB.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> You need an active HDMI->DVI-D connector. These are expensive ($100) and don't OC as well as the alternative.
> 
> As someone said earlier, at that price you may as well get yourself a new GPU. I would definitely recommend this as you only have integrated graphics right now, even a cheap GPU should be a big improvement - e.g. a HD5450.
> 
> And if you can't fit one in your case you could buy a decent case and this GPU for less than the $100 for the adapter.


Would this not work for him? Maybe $10 with shipping.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2080&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Would this not work for him? Maybe $10 with shipping.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2080&seq=1&format=2


Here is another one from amazon that specifically states dual link for cheaper.

http://www.amazon.com/computers-accessories/dp/B002JCQVW8


----------



## asuka10456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> You need an active HDMI->DVI-D connector. These are expensive ($100) and don't OC as well as the alternative.
> 
> As someone said earlier, at that price you may as well get yourself a new GPU. I would definitely recommend this as you only have integrated graphics right now, even a cheap GPU should be a big improvement - e.g. a HD5450.
> 
> And if you can't fit one in your case you could buy a decent case and this GPU for less than the $100 for the adapter.


The reason I'm looking for this specifically is because I'm thinking about upgrading my computer. A bit of z87 boards have HDMI-in. Which may have possibility in the stuff of recording through that port. Also wanted to see how my Xbox 360 and Ouya looks on this monitor. My TV is pretty my tv isn't very good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Would this not work for him? Maybe $10 with shipping.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2080&seq=1&format=2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Here is another one from amazon that specifically states dual link for cheaper.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/computers-accessories/dp/B002JCQVW8


Has anyone has any experience with these kind of adapters? I have similar adapter but its not dual link, I'm assuming it wouldn't work with native res.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Here is another one from amazon that specifically states dual link for cheaper.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/computers-accessories/dp/B002JCQVW8


Those aren't dual link adapters. I haven't found a true HDMI to dual link DVI adapter on the internet.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyslexicChciken*
> 
> I just want confirmation if anyone out there might have an HD5870 cypress XT or know of whether I will have any problems using it with a 2560x1440 QNIX monitor. The HD5870 supports dual DVI and has a graphics memory size of 1024 MB.


If it's dual link then it should work though were it me I would find a way to upgrade my GPU. Even if you don't really game...


----------



## David164v8

Does pixel perfect help at all with the chances of getting a monitor with very little backlight bleed? I'm not really worried about dead pixels, but backlight bleed would be quite annoying I think. If I ordered a normal one, is it likely I'd get a monitor with bad bleeding?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Does pixel perfect help at all with the chances of getting a monitor with very little backlight bleed? I'm not really worried about dead pixels, but backlight bleed would be quite annoying I think. If I ordered a normal one, is it likely I'd get a monitor with bad bleeding?


Don't matter which one you order the chance for BLB will be the same..


----------



## tryceo

Anyone know if you can fix dead pixels?


----------



## 6steven9

There are chances stuck pixel may fix themselves not sure about dead though Linus showed a video long time ago that some ways to fix them are simply just pressing hard on the screen where the pixel is a few times and flashing colors on the screen......


----------



## DyslexicChciken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> If it's dual link then it should work though were it me I would find a way to upgrade my GPU. Even if you don't really game...


I forgot to mention that it's 1024MB memory with GDDR5. I don't really have the budget to upgrade my GPU at the moment.


----------



## HHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG*
> 
> If I push down on the panel around 4 inches to the left of the major bleed, it goes away.
> 
> I might need to spend more time taking it apart and see if I can bend it, the light bleed is just a killer for me, I cant not see it now, I have stuck pixels but they don't even bother me because the screen is so high res, you have to be right up close to see them and on a white screen.


Did you have the stuck pixels before? Because maybe, just maybe it was caused because you did the tape mod. Not sure though, but I read it somewhere in this (big) thread.
Let me clarify; someone did the tape mod and wasn't amused because afterwards he had many dead pixels. So he took it apart again and blew some compressed air over the panel. And guess what? All dead pixel were gone. Not sure if you have the same problem though. Could be something different. Just saying.

And sucks with BLB in general. I tried to do the tape mod as well, because I had some (really) minor BLB at the right bottom and middle of the top screen. But, to be really honest, I found the tape mod a little bit to difficult for me. However, that being said, the BLB is really minor. Come to think of it, the Hazro HZ27WC (which costed me twice the price of the QNIX) had the same or more BLB. Maybe I will try again in the future, however not now.

I also have a question of my own, which hopefully someone of you can answer.

After keeping track of this thread, I read that some or most of you guys run with "LCD Reduced", correct?
I thought (probably misread it) that this would cause the videocard not to downclock when being idle or in 2D (surfing or similar). Is this true? Otherwise I might gonna use the "LCD Reduced" settings as well.

Oh and one more question (sorry); I am running 2x EVGA GTX 780 SC ACX videocards in SLI. These cards have 1x DVI-D and 1x DVI-I outputs.
Will there be a difference in the overclock potential / result of your QNIX monitor between these 2 outputs? I am guessing it will not make any difference, but just wondering.

Thanks!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyslexicChciken*
> 
> I forgot to mention that it's 1024MB memory with GDDR5. I don't really have the budget to upgrade my GPU at the moment.


It'll work fine with your GPU.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> Oh and one more question (sorry); I am running 2x EVGA GTX 780 SC ACX videocards in SLI. These cards have 1x DVI-D and 1x DVI-I outputs.
> Will there be a difference in the overclock potential / result of your QNIX monitor between these 2 outputs? I am guessing it will not make any difference, but just wondering.
> 
> Thanks!


No difference. DVI-I and DVI-D are identical for your purposes - DVI-I just has "extra" options the Qnix doesn't use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HHawk*
> 
> I also have a question of my own, which hopefully someone of you can answer.
> 
> After keeping track of this thread, I read that some or most of you guys run with "LCD Reduced", correct?
> I thought (probably misread it) that this would cause the videocard not to downclock when being idle or in 2D (surfing or similar). Is this true? Otherwise I might gonna use the "LCD Reduced" settings as well.
> 
> Thanks!


No need to worry, that won't stop an idle GPU downclocking. I see you've already messed with the settings, LCD Reduced does a similar thing but does not go quite as far personal tweaking, so f you've made your own custom profile that works stick with it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah but those weren't dead pixels. Was dust and what not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyslexicChciken*
> 
> I forgot to mention that it's 1024MB memory with GDDR5. I don't really have the budget to upgrade my GPU at the moment.


Hey I'm not rich either. I play BF3 at 35-50 fps at present lol. But I'd start looking for a GPU upgrade deal perhaps on a used one as you are really gonna need it for 1440P. I worked on upgrading my GPU from GTX 480 (tho was also tired of the power usage) before getting the display and that worked out great as by then these PLS hit the scene.


----------



## Lazdaa

Hey does anyone know if the tools for overclocking (Patcher/CRU) are compatible for the Windows 8.1 Preview drivers seen here: http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles/Pages/AMDCatalystWIN8-1PreviewDriver.aspx

Or should i go back to Win8 and use the 13.6 Drivers?

Cheers!


----------



## caenlen

120hz doesn't work for me, I get little blue lines pop up now and again, even with LCD reduced checked and DVI Latency reduction checked in CCC as toastyx recc.

i', sad, tried 108hz, worked fine for a few hours then got grey screen of death... went down to 96hz, everything seems fine now







still was hoping for 120 like most of u... lesson = learned


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> 120hz doesn't work for me, I get little blue lines pop up now and again, even with LCD reduced checked and DVI Latency reduction checked in CCC as toastyx recc.
> 
> i', sad, tried 108hz, worked fine for a few hours then got grey screen of death... went down to 96hz, everything seems fine now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still was hoping for 120 like most of u... lesson = learned


An interesting thing I found was to check both DVI options in CC, apply, then uncheck them, apply. The lines became almost unnoticeable








I made my custom res with LCD Standard though, I could probably push it higher if I tweaked the settings.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Just ordered my QNIX matte monitor from ipsledmonitors.com

Now I have to decide on a replacement stand. What do you guys think, THIS ONE, or THIS


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Just ordered my QNIX matte monitor from ipsledmonitors.com
> 
> Now I have to decide on a replacement stand. What do you guys think, THIS ONE, or THIS


The HP one looks smaller to me, so I'd take that. It also seems to be easier to adjust - you need to loosen, adjust, then tighten with the monoprice stand. And it's cheaper


----------



## luciddreamer124

Doesn't seem like you can get that one anymore unfortunately









I found a slightly cheaper price for the other one so I might just go with that. It looks very sturdy to me


----------



## Abenlog

Some bad/good news. I ordered my X Star from IPSLEDMONITORS and they promptly shipped it from Korea last Friday. The tracking said it would be here Wednesday, but to my pleasant surprise it was out for delivery on Monday. I got into the office and my secretary had taken the delivery already. Unfortunately, someone had messed up and sent me the Qnix. I called up IPSLEDMONITORS and Justin there was very helpful. He told me to go ahead open it up and check if it was a good monitor (overclock, pixels, and blb). If it was ok, I could keep it and they'd refund the shipping cost ($20). If not, they'd pay for shipping it back and send me a new one. I opened it up and did a quick test. BLB was minimal, it clocked to 96 Hz easily but unfortunately there were some dead pixels. I called Justin back and not only did they send me a return label, they refunded my all of my money AND gave me $100 off the new monitor I ordered. Can't beat service like that. My new monitor is already on its way and I should be receiving it Friday. Will report back with the usual.


----------



## pc-gamer

Iv been looking for the Catleap INF ("driver") . Any where I can download this please?


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pc-gamer*
> 
> Iv been looking for the Catleap INF ("driver") . Any where I can download this please?


Try this: http://www.monitortests.com/catleap.zip

Source: http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide&highlight=Catleap


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Nice Abenlog you lucked out. And possibly saved some other poor sap from getting that meh QNIX.


----------



## Atomagenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Some bad/good news. I ordered my X Star from IPSLEDMONITORS and they promptly shipped it from Korea last Friday. The tracking said it would be here Wednesday, but to my pleasant surprise it was out for delivery on Monday. I got into the office and my secretary had taken the delivery already. Unfortunately, someone had messed up and sent me the Qnix. I called up IPSLEDMONITORS and Justin there was very helpful. He told me to go ahead open it up and check if it was a good monitor (overclock, pixels, and blb). If it was ok, I could keep it and they'd refund the shipping cost ($20). If not, they'd pay for shipping it back and send me a new one. I opened it up and did a quick test. BLB was minimal, it clocked to 96 Hz easily but unfortunately there were some dead pixels. I called Justin back and not only did they send me a return label, they refunded my all of my money AND gave me $100 off the new monitor I ordered. Can't beat service like that. My new monitor is already on its way and I should be receiving it Friday. Will report back with the usual.


Wow, nice man you lucked out.

I've been super happy with my X-Star, best monitor I've ever had, the colors are amazing. My fiancée and I LOVE watching movies on it, and games look amazing as well.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Some bad/good news. I ordered my X Star from IPSLEDMONITORS and they promptly shipped it from Korea last Friday. The tracking said it would be here Wednesday, but to my pleasant surprise it was out for delivery on Monday. I got into the office and my secretary had taken the delivery already. Unfortunately, someone had messed up and sent me the Qnix. I called up IPSLEDMONITORS and Justin there was very helpful. He told me to go ahead open it up and check if it was a good monitor (overclock, pixels, and blb). If it was ok, I could keep it and they'd refund the shipping cost ($20). If not, they'd pay for shipping it back and send me a new one. I opened it up and did a quick test. BLB was minimal, it clocked to 96 Hz easily but unfortunately there were some dead pixels. I called Justin back and not only did they send me a return label, they refunded my all of my money AND gave me $100 off the new monitor I ordered. Can't beat service like that. My new monitor is already on its way and I should be receiving it Friday. Will report back with the usual.


Seems like there customer service is great.. Please keep us updated..


----------



## Spartan F8

FYI

I was tinkering around with the color settings last night. I was originally using the ICC profile in the OP for 75% gamma @120hz. I was working on setting up the color corrections in the NVCP or driver level since a good deal of games simply ignore windows color settings. After spending about 3 hours calibrating the monitor with the NVCP to get it as accurate and close as the ICC profile as possible(even made some improvements in my opinion) using every calibration method i could find(mainly http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/) i had it about as good as it can get. What i found is is most if not all my games look WAY better in terms of textures and light color scale. IT was comparable to installing a new HD texture pack. This is likely due to the extent of the color shift while running at 120hz. If you think about it most of your games still have that massive color shift on them because they are not using the ICC profile.

Just wanted to let you all know


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Seems like there customer service is great.. Please keep us updated..


+1 if i can get half that good of service it is more than acceptable.


----------



## luciddreamer124

This is very reassuring to hear after I just ordered from them. Obviously want an excellent monitor but nice to know I'll have some help if anything is wrong.


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Nice Abenlog you lucked out. And possibly saved some other poor sap from getting that meh QNIX.


Haha, doing my service to humanity. All in a day's work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> Wow, nice man you lucked out.
> 
> I've been super happy with my X-Star, best monitor I've ever had, the colors are amazing. My fiancée and I LOVE watching movies on it, and games look amazing as well.


Posts like this get me really excited to get my monitor all setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Seems like there customer service is great.. Please keep us updated..


Yes, thus far they've been nothing but exemplary, even going as far as measuring the monitor for me (I asked here a couple of times and no one answered).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> +1 if i can get half that good of service it is more than acceptable.


Go with them and you won't be disappointed








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> This is very reassuring to hear after I just ordered from them. Obviously want an excellent monitor but nice to know I'll have some help if anything is wrong.


Did you order an X-Star or Qnix?


----------



## luciddreamer124

QNIX matte


----------



## Daveleaf

I had a s27a750D (120 mhz 3D, samsung 1080p) which met with a unfortunate death in the hands of a flying PS3 controller.

SO I picked up a QNIX 2710, DPORT.

I watch TV, and PS3 on hdmi, and use dport for pc.

so far using displayport, and on stock (no drivers patch) AMD 7970, best I can manage is 85 mhz.

Its not fluid as my old TN monitor but not bad for the price.

Also scaling on the hdmi port is meh, but useable.....maybe 750D did a better job, or maybe just 1080o to 1080p was easier vs 1080i to this monitors res.

I got it from ebay had it in 1 day, lol, with time difference, it left 6am got here by 7 pm.

for $360 not bad at all.


----------



## supdubdup

I just received my QNIX from green-sum. Everything seems to be great so far (waiting for it to be PM). But I realized that the font at 1440p is like...super small. What PPI do you guys use??


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> I just received my QNIX from green-sum. Everything seems to be great so far (waiting for it to be PM). But I realized that the font at 1440p is like...super small. What PPI do you guys use??


Not PPI but DPI. You can either turn the DPI setting to 125% which will make all of the windows UI bigger or change the font size for each text item in advanced appearance settings.

DPI
1. START
2. control panel
3. display
4. Set custom text size(DPI)
5. Chose a size and do some trial and error

Font size(try this first my opinion)
1. right click
2. personalize
3. windows color
4. advanced
5. under the "item" drop down select each field and check if their is a font size.
6. change each font capable windows object up 1 or 2 points (trial and error)

This is windows 7 but others will be similar.

Cheers


----------



## supdubdup

Thanks man, changed all the font sizes from 9 (FONTS FOR ANTS!?) to the standard 12, and things are much better. I still kinda lol at the subtitle sizes in video games like Deus Ex.


----------



## DyslexicChciken

I am deciding on the color dept at the moment. The older Achieva Shimian, I have read, has 1.07billion color dept as opposed to a majority of other Korean 2560x1440 monitors, which have 8bit 16.7million color depth. Is this true or is it just mis-labeled? Is there a way to get 10bit 1.07billion color depth even though a monitor is listed as 8bit 16.7million color depth, such as the Qnix?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyslexicChciken*
> 
> I am deciding on the color dept at the moment. The older Achieva Shimian, I have read, has 1.07billion color dept as opposed to a majority of other Korean 2560x1440 monitors, which have 8bit 16.7million color depth. Is this true or is it just mis-labeled? Is there a way to get 10bit 1.07billion color depth even though a monitor is listed as 8bit 16.7million color depth, such as the Qnix?


This is not mislabeled and no you cannot. However unless you have a 10bit video card (like a firepro or quadro card) there is not point since you cannot render that depth anyway thus having a 10bit panel is not going to present any real world or visible quality improvement. If you got out some professional color test tools to test this any actual difference would be mitigated by the difference in quality from a IPS panel to PLS panel. You have to have an entire chain of 10bit for 10bit to be possible. Also you desktop color in actually an upconverted(in a sense for you graphics pros) anyway thus 16 or 32bit color.


----------



## DyslexicChciken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This is not mislabeled and no you cannot. However unless you have a 10bit video card (like a firepro or quadro card) there is not point since you cannot render that depth anyway thus having a 10bit panel is not going to present any real world or visible quality improvement. If you got out some professional color test tools to test this any actual difference would be mitigated by the difference in quality from a IPS panel to PLS panel. You have to have an entire chain of 10bit for 10bit to be possible. Also you desktop color in actually an upconverted(in a sense for you graphics pros) anyway thus 16 or 32bit color.


Thanks for the reply. That sucks, now I need a firepro or quadro card.

Edit: On second thought, I realize they aren't really the average graphics cards. Don't really feel like replacing my GPU everytime I play a game, so I guess I will have a pass at the Achieva Shimian. I do digital imaging, so I thought the 10.7billion color might be a phenomenal addition.


----------



## kossair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daveleaf*
> 
> I had a s27a750D (120 mhz 3D, samsung 1080p) which met with a unfortunate death in the hands of a flying PS3 controller.
> 
> SO I picked up a QNIX 2710, DPORT.
> 
> I watch TV, and PS3 on hdmi, and use dport for pc.
> 
> so far using displayport, and on stock (no drivers patch) AMD 7970, best I can manage is 85 mhz.
> 
> Its not fluid as my old TN monitor but not bad for the price.
> 
> Also scaling on the hdmi port is meh, but useable.....maybe 750D did a better job, or maybe just 1080o to 1080p was easier vs 1080i to this monitors res.
> 
> I got it from ebay had it in 1 day, lol, with time difference, it left 6am got here by 7 pm.
> 
> for $360 not bad at all.


So even the multi-input ones ain't good for consoles in the end? I also have a PS3 (and a PS4 possibly) I want to use with my monitor, but from what you say I'd probably be better off with a true 1080p monitor...bummer.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyslexicChciken*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. That sucks, now I need a firepro or quadro card.
> 
> Edit: On second thought, I realize they aren't really the average graphics cards. Don't really feel like replacing my GPU everytime I play a game, so I guess I will have a pass at the Achieva Shimian. I do digital imaging, so I thought the 10.7billion color might be a phenomenal addition.


Not really, i have seen it tested side by side and although there is a benefit it is like i said comparable to the difference between IPS and PLS. I will say that AH-IPS is superior to PLS after a professional calibrator is used and the 10bit addition would be another positive but not worth a professional GFx card.

If you wanted the best possible setup in colors and response in my opinion would be an AH-IPS screen 10bit straight through with the overlord PCB to overclock to 120hz. It has also been noted that IPS screens don't suffer as much(if any) as PLS in color degradation at overclock speeds. Overall the Qnix is about saving money and getting a crazy bang for your buck factor(with some work) though.


----------



## Daveleaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kossair*
> 
> So even the multi-input ones ain't good for consoles in the end? I also have a PS3 (and a PS4 possibly) I want to use with my monitor, but from what you say I'd probably be better off with a true 1080p monitor...bummer.


Its perpectly useable....for ps3 and tv.....its just I had a really great monitor I was comparing it to.

It doesnt look low res or anything like that. Its just not as fluid...I play tekken which has lots of just frame moves, and from the 2 ms TN to this I miss some just frame moves.

but if I had another $200 to burn, id prolly get my 120mhz TN over again vs this.

Some help please

I have this on 100 bright and 100 contrast......anthying less and it looks washed out or too dark ? is this normal ?

thanks


----------



## Coldplayer

Got my Qnix PLS and very happy no dead pixels or anything. Can't seem to OC it but? When i add custom profiles in CRU and restart i can't see the resoloutions in my driver control panel after. I'm in test mode already.
Also is there a driver for this?

Cheers


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*
> 
> Got my Qnix PLS and very happy no dead pixels or anything. Can't seem to OC it but? When i add custom profiles in CRU and restart i can't see the resoloutions in my driver control panel after. I'm in test mode already.
> Also is there a driver for this?
> 
> Cheers


1. did you patch your driver?
2. there is a catleap driver we have been using to get games to better see the overclock refresh rate but it should no way effect you here.


----------



## Coldplayer

Yeah i did patch it and its in test mode.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*
> 
> Yeah i did patch it and its in test mode.


1. make sure it is set to the monitor with an * nest to it in teh drop down menu and not a duplicate entry
2. apply the resolution, close CRU, re-open it and see if it states (restart required)
3. make sure "include extension block" is unchecked
4. try using the NVCP just to see
5. try a lower overclock like 70hz to see if that works
6. try re-installing the monitor drivers(NOT GPU drivers) and try again


----------



## Coldplayer

Yep unchecked include extension block and all G now. Running at 110hz and very happy. Only thing is my brightness i think changed a bit. Anyone know any good colour profiles to play with?
Also with calibrating my monitor am i doing it driver side as the monitor doesn't have any settings on it?
Cheers


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*
> 
> Yep unchecked include extension block and all G now. Running at 110hz and very happy. Only thing is my brightness i think changed a bit. Anyone know any good colour profiles to play with?
> Also with calibrating my monitor am i doing it driver side as the monitor doesn't have any settings on it?
> Cheers


There are some color calibration profiles in the OP. Most still lead to valid links, i assume.

If you calibrate the monitor, you GET a custom color calibration profile not a driver. Only one color calibration profile can be active at a time, so it is better to calibrate it yourself than use icc profiles of other monitors.


----------



## apav

Hey everyone,

I made a thread a couple days ago about a problem I was having with the monitor, and to let everyone know how the process with SquareTrade went.

You can find the thread here.

Well, the repair center received my monitor today and SquareTrade decided to reimburse me for the full amount. If they reimbursed me for something as small as a bad DVI port on the monitor, I'm sure that they'll most likely just reimburse you for this monitor for any problem. (Maybe due to the fact that it's a Korean monitor?)

Anyway I'm not sure if this is good or bad news. I won't be getting my monitor back, so that means I'll be putting the refund towards another QNIX or X-Star. Which means I have to play the lottery again. This QNIX had one stuck (green) pixel in the top right corner of the screen, noticeable backlight bleed (made worse from the panel play), and could barely handle 120hz (in some games I got scan lines every now and again, others I didn't). Even though I could of had better luck with another one, I was happy it wasn't worse. I bought it in mid-April, only a couple weeks after we caught on to these monitors. I bought it from Hulustar (the supposed batch of the first 100 monitors that were pixel perfect).

I'll be buying from an actual pixel perfect listing this time, but I have a few questions first.

1.) Is there currently any one seller that's doing better than the others right now (everyone buying from them lately has reported theirs to have no dead/stuck pixels or better at overclocking, or is currently going for cheaper)?

2.) I've read that there is none, but do we know of any difference between QNIX and X-Star (is one better at overclocking)?

3.) What does pixel perfect actually mean? I've seen that some sellers consider it up to a certain amount of dead/stuck pixels, or no dead pixels but some stuck pixels. Are there any pixel perfect listings that mean there will be 0 dead or stuck pixels?

I guess I'm just worried that my next monitor will be worse than the last one.

Thank you!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I made a thread a couple days ago about a problem I was having with the monitor, and to let everyone know how the process with SquareTrade went.
> 
> You can find the thread here.
> 
> Well, the repair center received my monitor today and SquareTrade decided to reimburse me for the full amount. If they reimbursed me for something as small as a bad DVI port on the monitor, I'm sure that they'll most likely just reimburse you for this monitor for any problem. (Maybe due to the fact that it's a Korean monitor?)
> 
> Anyway I'm not sure if this is good or bad news. I won't be getting my monitor back, so that means I'll be putting the refund towards another QNIX or X-Star. Which means I have to play the lottery again. This QNIX had one stuck (green) pixel in the top right corner of the screen, noticeable backlight bleed (made worse from the panel play), and could barely handle 120hz (in some games I got scan lines every now and again, others I didn't). Even though I could of had better luck with another one, I was happy it wasn't worse. I bought it in mid-April, only a couple weeks after we caught on to these monitors. I bought it from Hulustar (the supposed batch of the first 100 monitors that were pixel perfect).
> 
> I'll be buying from an actual pixel perfect listing this time, but I have a few questions first.
> 
> 1.) Is there currently any one seller that's doing better than the others right now (everyone buying from them lately has reported theirs to have no dead/stuck pixels or better at overclocking, or is currently going for cheaper)?
> 
> 2.) I've read that there is none, but do we know of any difference between QNIX and X-Star (is one better at overclocking)?
> 
> 3.) What does pixel perfect actually mean? I've seen that some sellers consider it up to a certain amount of dead/stuck pixels, or no dead pixels but some stuck pixels. Are there any pixel perfect listings that mean there will be 0 dead or stuck pixels?
> 
> I guess I'm just worried that my next monitor will be worse than the last one.
> 
> Thank you!


Order from these guys since you are in the US...People have had good luck with there monitors and if not great customer service..

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Default.asp


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I made a thread a couple days ago about a problem I was having with the monitor, and to let everyone know how the process with SquareTrade went.
> 
> You can find the thread here.
> 
> Well, the repair center received my monitor today and SquareTrade decided to reimburse me for the full amount. If they reimbursed me for something as small as a bad DVI port on the monitor, I'm sure that they'll most likely just reimburse you for this monitor for any problem. (Maybe due to the fact that it's a Korean monitor?)
> 
> Anyway I'm not sure if this is good or bad news. I won't be getting my monitor back, so that means I'll be putting the refund towards another QNIX or X-Star. Which means I have to play the lottery again. This QNIX had one stuck (green) pixel in the top right corner of the screen, noticeable backlight bleed (made worse from the panel play), and could barely handle 120hz (in some games I got scan lines every now and again, others I didn't). Even though I could of had better luck with another one, I was happy it wasn't worse. I bought it in mid-April, only a couple weeks after we caught on to these monitors. I bought it from Hulustar (the supposed batch of the first 100 monitors that were pixel perfect).
> 
> I'll be buying from an actual pixel perfect listing this time, but I have a few questions first.
> 
> 1.) Is there currently any one seller that's doing better than the others right now (everyone buying from them lately has reported theirs to have no dead/stuck pixels or better at overclocking, or is currently going for cheaper)?
> 
> 2.) I've read that there is none, but do we know of any difference between QNIX and X-Star (is one better at overclocking)?
> 
> 3.) What does pixel perfect actually mean? I've seen that some sellers consider it up to a certain amount of dead/stuck pixels, or no dead pixels but some stuck pixels. Are there any pixel perfect listings that mean there will be 0 dead or stuck pixels?
> 
> I guess I'm just worried that my next monitor will be worse than the last one.
> 
> Thank you!


1. Bigclothcraft, accessorieswhole, dream seller(maybe)
2. NONE (this is the 23rd time this has been asked counting the other thread)
3. PP = no dead pixels it does not count dark, stuck or bright pixels. Better to message sellers and ask them directly about PP before ordering

This is a short and sweat answer the rest you will need to search as this has been covered again and again and again and again........
I will say great feedback on the squaretrade warranty. many of us would like to hear some feedback on ST directly related to the Qnix and the processes behind it. To be honest i think it went quite well as you got your money back. Yes it is the lottery again but you didn't have to ship to korea is the key factor here.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Order from these guys since you are in the US...People have had good luck with there monitors and if not great customer service..
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Default.asp


Wow. I was wondering when something like this was going to come along. Before I knew about these PLS monitors I was going to buy from Overlord for the very same reason. And here I was about to buy from S. Korea again. Thanks for the save!

A little more expensive for the actual monitor and $20 shipping but I guess it's worth it because if you get a monitor with dead/stuck pixels or can't overclock to 120hz well you can return it for a full refund.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 1. Bigclothcraft, accessorieswhole, dream seller(maybe)
> 2. NONE (this is the 23rd time this has been asked counting the other thread)
> 3. PP = no dead pixels it does not count dark, stuck or bright pixels. Better to message sellers and ask them directly about PP before ordering
> 
> This is a short and sweat answer the rest you will need to search as this has been covered again and again and again and again........
> I will say great feedback on the squaretrade warranty. many of us would like to hear some feedback on ST directly related to the Qnix and the processes behind it. To be honest i think it went quite well as you got your money back. Yes it is the lottery again but you didn't have to ship to korea is the key factor here.


Thank you for the help. I knew there wasn't a difference between the QNIX and X-Star that we knew of, but I just wanted to ask again to be sure someone didn't find a difference since I was last checking out the thread.

And yes, I think this confirms it that SquareTrade will just refund you if you send your QNIX/X-Star to them because they don't have the parts readily available. I'm happy I didn't have to ship it back to hulustar. So now we know that SquareTrade is the for sure way to avoid that. Great customer service and overall a quick and easy process. Though maybe I'm speaking too soon, the money isn't back in the bank account yet


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I made a thread a couple days ago about a problem I was having with the monitor, and to let everyone know how the process with SquareTrade went.
> 
> You can find the thread here.
> 
> Well, the repair center received my monitor today and SquareTrade decided to reimburse me for the full amount. If they reimbursed me for something as small as a bad DVI port on the monitor, I'm sure that they'll most likely just reimburse you for this monitor for any problem. (Maybe due to the fact that it's a Korean monitor?)
> 
> Anyway I'm not sure if this is good or bad news. I won't be getting my monitor back, so that means I'll be putting the refund towards another QNIX or X-Star. Which means I have to play the lottery again. This QNIX had one stuck (green) pixel in the top right corner of the screen, noticeable backlight bleed (made worse from the panel play), and could barely handle 120hz (in some games I got scan lines every now and again, others I didn't). Even though I could of had better luck with another one, I was happy it wasn't worse. I bought it in mid-April, only a couple weeks after we caught on to these monitors. I bought it from Hulustar (the supposed batch of the first 100 monitors that were pixel perfect).
> 
> I'll be buying from an actual pixel perfect listing this time, but I have a few questions first.
> 
> 1.) Is there currently any one seller that's doing better than the others right now (everyone buying from them lately has reported theirs to have no dead/stuck pixels or better at overclocking, or is currently going for cheaper)?
> 
> 2.) I've read that there is none, but do we know of any difference between QNIX and X-Star (is one better at overclocking)?
> 
> 3.) What does pixel perfect actually mean? I've seen that some sellers consider it up to a certain amount of dead/stuck pixels, or no dead pixels but some stuck pixels. Are there any pixel perfect listings that mean there will be 0 dead or stuck pixels?
> 
> I guess I'm just worried that my next monitor will be worse than the last one.
> 
> Thank you!


Your questions have already been answered, but here is more information on them that you can find.

1. Look in the OP under the expandable section titled "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis (Click to show)." Once there, you will see a bar chart for all the ebay sellers purchased from. Looks like green-sum, hulustar, and dream-seller are the most purchased from.

2. Look in the OP under the expandable section titled "FAQ (Click to show)." Once there, look for "Q: Should I buy an X-star or Qnix (Which one overclock better?)"

3. Look in the OP under the expandable section titled "FAQ (Click to show)." Once there, look for "Q: Is it worth it to buy a pixel perfect monitor?"


----------



## Coldplayer

What brightness should i put the monitor on before calibrating? At 110hz and can't seem to get the brightness/contrast right.

Cheers


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Just ordered my QNIX matte monitor from ipsledmonitors.com
> 
> Now I have to decide on a replacement stand. What do you guys think, THIS ONE, or THIS


I just bought one of these yesterday http://www.ebay.com/itm/200935861875?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 but I can't find anymore...


----------



## moonshine6456

ugh I bought the asus 144hz 24inch in may, wish i could of saw this monitor before hand!!!!


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> ugh I bought the asus 144hz 24inch in may, wish i could of saw this monitor before hand!!!!


I was gonna get that monitor but then I got to thinking about 1440p and decided I didn't wanna stay at 1080 anymore.


----------



## Coldplayer

I'm at 110hz fine and at 120hz in CSS i occassionaly get white shooting horozontal lines accross. Anyway to work around this or is 110hz my limit?

Cheers


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*
> 
> I'm at 110hz fine and at 120hz in CSS i occassionaly get white shooting horozontal lines accross. Anyway to work around this or is 110hz my limit?
> 
> Cheers


Try using a different cable, when I originally got the monitor I would artefact at 110hz using a BenQ XL2420T DL-DVI cable, but when I switched to the one included with the monitor, I was stable even at 115


----------



## Coldplayer

Yeah using the one with the monitor, Was wondering maybe if it'd help with me changing the pixel clock maybe?


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*
> 
> I'm at 110hz fine and at 120hz in CSS i occassionaly get white shooting horozontal lines accross. Anyway to work around this or is 110hz my limit?
> 
> Cheers


Try using reduced instead of standard.


----------



## Coldplayer

Can't find that setting?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*
> 
> Can't find that setting?


In CRU, on the screen where you choose the refresh rate, it should say "Timing" at the top. Change that box to LCD Reduced.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Your questions have already been answered, but here is more information on them that you can find.
> 
> 1. Look in the OP under the expandable section titled "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis (Click to show)." Once there, you will see a bar chart for all the ebay sellers purchased from. Looks like green-sum, hulustar, and dream-seller are the most purchased from.
> 
> 2. Look in the OP under the expandable section titled "FAQ (Click to show)." Once there, look for "Q: Should I buy an X-star or Qnix (Which one overclock better?)"
> 
> 3. Look in the OP under the expandable section titled "FAQ (Click to show)." Once there, look for "Q: Is it worth it to buy a pixel perfect monitor?"


Thanks, I've been out of the loop for a while.







I think I'm going to go with ipsledmonitors.com because you can return it for free. I'll keep playing the lottery until I get a perfect one, if that is possible. (Not sure if they'll be mad at me if I return 2 in a row)

Are there any coupons currently out there for ipsledmonitors.com? I signed up for their newsletter but I haven't gotten anything.


----------



## On1zuka

Just got my QNIX 2710 Matte from Green-Sum.

Monitor is pixel perfect (as far as I can see.. it is a little hard to check ..)
Minor blb only really visible if the screen is black and the light is off, so minor that I don't think I will bother with tape and stuff. Just not worth prying open the monitor for.

Delivery only took 4 days from Korea to Aus. Green-sum as been easy to deal with and prompt with replying questions on eBay.

Also the bezel is not really not that bad. Fits the monitor nice and snug... doesn't feel loose or look cheap.

The stand can be better... but it doesn't concern me in the least, it stands.. doesn't wobble under normal use.

Extremely happy, awesome color, awesome size.


----------



## Outlawed

Does anyone know if the brightness level in qx2710 is saved when uplugged? I move my pc around every few weeks and currently have the brightness level set correctly for my color profile.

It's not biggie to just turn it all the way down and then put it back up however many clicks. It's just hard for me to tell if it needs it or not.


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Does anyone know if the brightness level in qx2710 is saved when uplugged? I move my pc around every few weeks and currently have the brightness level set correctly for my color profile.
> 
> It's not biggie to just turn it all the way down and then put it back up however many clicks. It's just hard for me to tell if it needs it or not.


I would do it just to be safe.


----------



## 187x

I just ordered my GTX 780 last night and next week I get to finally test out my Qnix but I noticed a big gap in the middle of the bottom of the monitor between the plastic frame and the panel, is this gonna be a major BLB problem? Has anyone else have this with their Qnix? I guess time will tell but I am a bit worried, I rather have a couple dead pixels then a big back light bleed problem. (Plastic part isn't butted right up against the panel like the rest of the plastic frame does.)


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I just ordered my GTX 780 last night and next week I get to finally test out my Qnix but I noticed a big gap in the middle of the bottom of the monitor between the plastic frame and the panel, is this gonna be a major BLB problem? Has anyone else have this with their Qnix? I guess time will tell but I am a bit worried, I rather have a couple dead pixels then a big back light bleed problem. (Plastic part isn't butted right up against the panel like the rest of the plastic frame does.)


I have that too. I think everyone might. When we say that the stand/plastic bezel is cheap as fjkdsfjksa, we mean it!!

I would de-bezel the monitor (Read the expandable section in the OP titled "How to debezel and vesa-mount debezeled monitor") and paint the silver frame matte black if I could, but I am not at home where I have all that is needed.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I have that too. I think everyone might. When we say that the stand/plastic bezel is cheap as fjkdsfjksa, we mean it!!
> 
> I would de-bezel the monitor (Read the expandable section in the OP titled "How to debezel and vesa-mount debezeled monitor") and paint the silver frame matte black if I could, but I am not at home where I have all that is needed.


Oh ok, thanks for the advice, I might have to consider that. I ordered a vesa mount stand the other day, and yeah the stand/plastic bezel is cheap as ****! lol wobbly as hell!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I just ordered my GTX 780 last night and next week I get to finally test out my Qnix but I noticed a big gap in the middle of the bottom of the monitor between the plastic frame and the panel, is this gonna be a major BLB problem? Has anyone else have this with their Qnix? I guess time will tell but I am a bit worried, I rather have a couple dead pixels then a big back light bleed problem. (Plastic part isn't butted right up against the panel like the rest of the plastic frame does.)


Try loosening the two middle screws in the back..


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Try loosening the two middle screws in the back..


Oh right on! got cha! I'll try that out....


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Try loosening the two middle screws in the back..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> Oh right on! got cha! I'll try that out....


That could also eliminate BLB if there should appear some. Worked for some at least.


----------



## SamTheGreat

Hello fellas. Thinking of buying one of these but not sure whether to buy from eBay or ipsledmonitors.com. What do you guys recommend?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I just ordered my GTX 780 last night and next week I get to finally test out my Qnix but I noticed a big gap in the middle of the bottom of the monitor between the plastic frame and the panel, is this gonna be a major BLB problem? Has anyone else have this with their Qnix? I guess time will tell but I am a bit worried, I rather have a couple dead pixels then a big back light bleed problem. (Plastic part isn't butted right up against the panel like the rest of the plastic frame does.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try loosening the two middle screws in the back..
Click to expand...

Oh and I forgot to mention, this won't cause BLB.

The loosening the two screws wont help close the gap either (only make it worse, bigger), but could help with BLB if it is in that location.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Oh and I forgot to mention, this won't cause BLB.
> 
> The loosening the two screws wont help close the gap either (only make it worse, bigger), but could help with BLB if it is in that location.


It helped even out the gap in mine..Cause you can see where the two screws are pulling the bezel tighter and making the middle bow out more..And by loosening them i got rid of the tiny bit of BLB i had..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheGreat*
> 
> Hello fellas. Thinking of buying one of these but not sure whether to buy from eBay or ipsledmonitors.com. What do you guys recommend?


Depends on your location, which is unknown. For starters, most people only go for that website if they live in the USA.

I was skeptical about purchasing from ebay, which is purchasing directly from the source in South Korea, but had a great experience just as many others have (otherwise, this thread wouldn't exist).

Bottom line, if you have some extra coin, go for the website one bc their return policy is better.
However, why we are look to buy these monitors in the first place is because of their cut-rate price. So in the spirit of keeping the price as low as possible, making the monitor more of a deal, buy from ebay. Consult the section in the OP titled "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis (Click to show)" to see which ebay sellers are purchased from.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Oh and I forgot to mention, this won't cause BLB.
> 
> The loosening the two screws wont help close the gap either (only make it worse, bigger), but could help with BLB if it is in that location.
> 
> 
> 
> It helped even out the gap in mine..Cause you can see where the two screws are pulling the bezel tighter and making the middle bow out more..And by loosening them i got rid of the tiny bit of BLB i had..
Click to expand...

I can see how that could help the bowing effect. Thanks.
And yes, it could help BLB.

bottom line: Doesn't hurt to not loosen the screws.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I can see how that could help the bowing effect. Thanks.
> And yes, it could help BLB.
> 
> bottom line: Doesn't hurt to not loosen the screws.


It's the quickest easiest fix you can try on these..


----------



## SamTheGreat

Thanks for the help man. I am located in the us so I think I might go for that one but before that I'll check if the price difference is huge. How does 1080p video and games look on these by the way?


----------



## 187x

Thanks for the tips guys, I was just worried that the gap would cause BLB but doesn't sound so bad after reading some of your posts. I'll just have to see what's goin on next week.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheGreat*
> 
> Thanks for the help man. I am located in the us so I think I might go for that one but before that I'll check if the price difference is huge. How does 1080p video and games look on these by the way?


As far as video goes:

I recommend installing this: http://haruhichan.com/forum/showthread.php?7545-KCP-Kawaii-Codec-Pack

Or, if you can, manually setting up these components. Some very good upscaling algorithms for all your video needs.

And not seen many 1080p games myself - usually you can pick 1440p as a resolution, if not your GPU will have to scale it.


----------



## oicwutudidthar

anyone here used a FIRST F300GD Live monitor?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> anyone here used a FIRST F300GD Live monitor?


This is a thread about 27" Korean PLS panels...

All 30" monitors are wide gamut=inaccurate & over-saturated colors for consumer media & the CCFL back-lit models sold on ebay all have grainy matte coatings and poor black levels. Sub 200$ IPS easily beat any Korean 30" you will find on ebay.

This image shows the affect of coatings on pixels, notice how unclear the 3020MDP looks. All of K-IPS on ebay except for the Glass Yamakasi have the same coating.

[urlhttp://www.overclockers.ru/images/lab/2013/05/02/1/23_kristaleffect_big.jpg[/url]

Notice how clear 2560x1440 models like the Qnix QX2710/U2713H/U2713HM/S27A850D/VP2770/PB278Q look by comparison. The Qnix & X-Star have the same coating.


----------



## nicedart

For those of you with idea's to buy a perfect pixel screen I'd avoid dream-seller. This is what she told me:
Quote:


> All products we sell has backlight bleeding. So perfect pixel screen has backlight bleeding and there maybe 0 to 2 minor dead pixels.


Basically I got a non perfect pixel screen, and got one bright pixel. It's in a semi annoying spot and is noticeable in dark screens. I inquired how much it would be to exchange it out for a perfect pixel screen and that I wasnt happy with this one. Dream-seller ignored my message until I submitted a negative feedback. (for poor communication)

Then she offered to exchange it for $127 shipping and $20 for the upgrade. Which I refused. Why would I spend $147 when she could, under her perfect pixel policy, just send me back the same screen I have?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> For those of you with idea's to buy a perfect pixel screen I'd avoid dream-seller. This is what she told me:
> Basically I got a non perfect pixel screen, and got one bright pixel. It's in a semi annoying spot and is noticeable in dark screens. I inquired how much it would be to exchange it out for a perfect pixel screen and that I wasnt happy with this one. Dream-seller ignored my message until I submitted a negative feedback. (for poor communication)
> 
> Then she offered to exchange it for $127 shipping and $20 for the upgrade. Which I refused. Why would I spend $147 when she could, under her perfect pixel policy, just send me back the same screen I have?


PP = SCAM it has been known. Sorry to hear about your experience but it does give more evidence towards the PP scam.


----------



## stubinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> For those of you with idea's to buy a perfect pixel screen I'd avoid dream-seller. This is what she told me:
> Basically I got a non perfect pixel screen, and got one bright pixel. It's in a semi annoying spot and is noticeable in dark screens. I inquired how much it would be to exchange it out for a perfect pixel screen and that I wasnt happy with this one. Dream-seller ignored my message until I submitted a negative feedback. (for poor communication)
> 
> Then she offered to exchange it for $127 shipping and $20 for the upgrade. Which I refused. Why would I spend $147 when she could, under her perfect pixel policy, just send me back the same screen I have?


That sucks, I'm in the market and kind of figured out pixel perfect is a joke. Like I said in the crossover forum, you're pretty much paying extra for the chance to get a partial refund if your monitor ends up arriving with a dead pixel. It makes no sense.


----------



## supdubdup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> For those of you with idea's to buy a perfect pixel screen I'd avoid dream-seller. This is what she told me:
> Basically I got a non perfect pixel screen, and got one bright pixel. It's in a semi annoying spot and is noticeable in dark screens. I inquired how much it would be to exchange it out for a perfect pixel screen and that I wasnt happy with this one. Dream-seller ignored my message until I submitted a negative feedback. (for poor communication)
> 
> Then she offered to exchange it for $127 shipping and $20 for the upgrade. Which I refused. Why would I spend $147 when she could, under her perfect pixel policy, just send me back the same screen I have?


I'm actually really surprised that a business person would be...truthful? about the backlight bleeding. My research tells me that all IPS panels have bleeding (but to what extent u know?) When I go to the first page and look at the members list, I wonder if "none" is really none.


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> This is a thread about 27" Korean PLS panels...
> 
> All 30" monitors are wide gamut=inaccurate & over-saturated colors for consumer media & the CCFL back-lit models sold on ebay all have grainy matte coatings and poor black levels. Sub 200$ IPS easily beat any Korean 30" you will find on ebay.
> 
> This image shows the affect of coatings on pixels, notice how unclear the 3020MDP looks. All of K-IPS on ebay except for the Glass Yamakasi have the same coating.
> 
> [urlhttp://www.overclockers.ru/images/lab/2013/05/02/1/23_kristaleffect_big.jpg[/url]
> 
> Notice how clear 2560x1440 models like the Qnix QX2710/U2713H/U2713HM/S27A850D/VP2770/PB278Q look by comparison. The Qnix & X-Star have the same coating.


even that one? it says it's an LG panel


----------



## Abenlog

I finally got my new monitor, yay! No dead pixels, and BLB is minor, woo. Not a great overclocker, stable around 96hz. My question is how do you apply ICC profiles with an ATI card? I can't seem to find a setting for it in CCC.


----------



## stubinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> I'm actually really surprised that a business person would be...truthful? about the backlight bleeding. My research tells me that all IPS panels have bleeding (but to what extent u know?) When I go to the first page and look at the members list, I wonder if "none" is really none.


You're right, backlight bleed is completely subjective. As for truthful? Wouldn't it be more truthful to just say, "we have no idea if your monitor will have dead pixels or not so here is our single price"?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> I finally got my new monitor, yay! No dead pixels, and BLB is minor, woo. Not a great overclocker, stable around 96hz. My question is how do you apply ICC profiles with an ATI card? I can't seem to find a setting for it in CCC.


I thought you just sent one back? You already got another monitor?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well they are also being upfront about the bleed because they really want to avoid returns which are a surely a big hit to them in addition to being a hassle and taking time to deal with.


----------



## stubinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well they are also being upfront about the bleed because they really want to avoid returns which are a surely a big hit to them in addition to being a hassle and taking time to deal with.


Yeah they're pretty clear about backlight bleed. It was just the pixel perfect thing that got me all fired up. Plus $147 to exchange for a "maybe" perfect pixel monitor? you're already half-way to buying a second monitor.


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubinator*
> 
> You're right, backlight bleed is completely subjective. As for truthful? Wouldn't it be more truthful to just say, "we have no idea if your monitor will have dead pixels or not so here is our single price"?
> I thought you just sent one back? You already got another monitor?


I received my monitor on Monday. They emailed me a return label and I dropped it off at UPS that same day. They shipped out the X-Star late Tuesday.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> For those of you with idea's to buy a perfect pixel screen I'd avoid dream-seller. This is what she told me:
> Basically I got a non perfect pixel screen, and got one bright pixel. It's in a semi annoying spot and is noticeable in dark screens. I inquired how much it would be to exchange it out for a perfect pixel screen and that I wasnt happy with this one. Dream-seller ignored my message until I submitted a negative feedback. (for poor communication)
> 
> Then she offered to exchange it for $127 shipping and $20 for the upgrade. Which I refused. Why would I spend $147 when she could, under her perfect pixel policy, just send me back the same screen I have?
> 
> 
> 
> PP = SCAM it has been known. Sorry to hear about your experience but it does give more evidence towards the PP scam.
Click to expand...

Yes, as has been stated in the OP under FAQ section: PP = marketing scam. Read the OP and avoid the BS!!

Sorry to hear your bad experience though. That sucks








This isn't the first time there has been some issue with dream-seller, either....


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Yes, as has been stated in the OP under FAQ section: PP = marketing scam. Read the OP and avoid the BS!!
> 
> Sorry to hear your bad experience though. That sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This isn't the first time there has been some issue with dream-seller, either....


Okay, so I've read that people here have had good experiences buying from ipsledmonitors.com, but how were the actual monitors themselves? Have people been getting near perfect ones (no dead/stuck pixels, little backlight bleed, overclocks to 120hz fine) or not so good ones from them?

I'm most likely going to order from them. I'm wondering if I should get an X-Star this time around though. An earlier post quoted an email from ipsledmonitors, here is a little excerpt:
Quote:


> If you are very concerned about monitor quality, I can advise you that we received a new shipment of x-star DP2710 monitors and the quality has been excellent; zero defects sold thus far.


If they did indeed recently receive a good batch of X-Stars (and that post is recent), my chance of encountering no problems could be really high. I'll email them and see what they have to say.


----------



## supdubdup

This might be a dumb question but does changing the window's DPI (say from 96 to 120 [100% to 125%]) affect the monitor's PPI?


----------



## atomicmew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> This might be a dumb question but does changing the window's DPI (say from 96 to 120 [100% to 125%]) affect the monitor's PPI?


No, pixels for LCD screens are a physical property of the display itself.


----------



## supdubdup

So here's my Green-Sum QNIX (non pixel perfect) monitor. As you can see, I have no dead pixels or stuck pixels. Additionally, the monitor does have bleeding on the lower right hand corner. I have no idea if it's minor, but I really hope that it is not. Is this minor bleeding?

DVI-I & DVI-D (Using DVI-D)
DVI

Dark


Dark 2


Light


Dark #1 is what my monitor looks like to me in the dark most of the times.


----------



## Coldplayer

Can't get my 110hz to stick. Everytime i reboot i lose the option to go higher than 60 in control panel and have to reapply everything. Ideas?

Cheers


----------



## titcchy

Just received my monitor from dream-seller, no dead pixels, instantly overclocked to 120hz, very minimal back light bleed at the bottom left center and I paid $420 for it. I would have easily paid much more if I was guaranteed this quality.

The only downfall would be that it took 11 days to come through customs and I always get very worried about expensive items being left for so long. I also had to purchase a higher priced DVI-D cable that supports 2560x1440 because the cable you receive is only 1.5m or less. Just be careful on the cable you buy as not all DVI-D cables support 2560x1440 and will make your display unusable.

Timescapes @ 1440p





The letter I got from Dream-seller



Overclocking proof


----------



## MrHamm

Hey Guys,

I'm planning to order a Qbux QX2710 LED from Ebay. I heard dreamseller was good.

I already have a U2711 and want to use this as a secondary monitor for 2D applications (web browsing, temp readings, forums, etc etc)

My U2711 is currently connected to a SLI GTX680's that I game on. I will not be doing surrond gaming.

Is it possible to connect this monitor to a GT610 @ GIG (02G-P3-2617-KR)? I used the GTX610 for previous 21.5 left and right flanking monitors which I sold.

It says on the that it only Supports Dual DVI-D dual link cards. On the product page it only shows DVI-I?

I live in Toronto Canada. What do you think my eta for arrival is?

Thanks guys.


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Okay, so I've read that people here have had good experiences buying from ipsledmonitors.com, but how were the actual monitors themselves? Have people been getting near perfect ones (no dead/stuck pixels, little backlight bleed, overclocks to 120hz fine) or not so good ones from them?
> 
> I'm most likely going to order from them. I'm wondering if I should get an X-Star this time around though. An earlier post quoted an email from ipsledmonitors, here is a little excerpt:
> If they did indeed recently receive a good batch of X-Stars (and that post is recent), my chance of encountering no problems could be really high. I'll email them and see what they have to say.


I just ordered a monitor. Read through my posts from the last week for my experiences with them.


----------



## Atomagenesis

The big ole' fat Monoprice DVI Cables are the best, that's what I use.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=4#feedback

It's like screwing in a python to your videocard, it is that big.


----------



## Fiked

A quick question, why would some monitors, seemingly the same, cost two separate prices? Are they actually different or do they more reflect what the seller payed for them at the time?

Namely:

Monitor 1

Monitor 2


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiked*
> 
> A quick question, why would some monitors, seemingly the same, cost two separate prices? Are they actually different or do they more reflect what the seller payed for them at the time?
> 
> Namely:
> 
> Monitor 1
> 
> Monitor 2


The first person to get one got a Qnix, so everyone else bought them as they were the only guaranteed OCer. THen someone got an X-Star and showed they could be OCed just as well, but by then all the guides had been made for Qnix so people got Qnix (even though they're almost exactly the same).

So demand for Qnix is higher, so they cost more.

Similarly I doubt people will buy the DP version until it is confirmed to OC.


----------



## Fiked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> The first person to get one got a Qnix, so everyone else bought them as they were the only guaranteed OCer. THen someone got an X-Star and showed they could be OCed just as well, but by then all the guides had been made for Qnix so people got Qnix (even though they're almost exactly the same).
> 
> So demand for Qnix is higher, so they cost more.
> 
> Similarly I doubt people will buy the DP version until it is confirmed to OC.


Both of the monitors are Qnix QX2710's.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiked*
> 
> Both of the monitors are Qnix QX2710's.












Must learn to be more awake...

The only reasons I can think of is deliberately posting multiple listings at various prices:

1) So some buyers accidentally/without realising get the more expensive one
2) So that, depending on filters etc. dreamseller's listings are more prominent/more likely to show up
3) So more of the products you see in a search are dream-seller's, you you are more likely to buy from them.
4) So when people see the same thing for cheaper they think "must buy now this is a good deal".

I think I've heard (1) being used even in the west by big chains, and (2,3,4) are ways of making buyers buy more.


----------



## Fiked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must learn to be more awake...
> 
> The only reasons I can think of is deliberately posting multiple listings at various prices:
> 
> 1) So some buyers accidentally/without realising get the more expensive one
> 2) So that, depending on filters etc. dreamseller's listings are more prominent/more likely to show up
> 3) So more of the products you see in a search are dream-seller's, you you are more likely to buy from them.
> 4) So when people see the same thing for cheaper they think "must buy now this is a good deal".
> 
> I think I've heard (1) being used even in the west by big chains, and (2,3,4) are ways of making buyers buy more.


Haha, its all good but ya that's pretty much what I figured was the purpose. On another note, what is this "perfect glossy/matte" I have seen in a few titles, I wasn't paying a lot of attention and almost mistook it for perfect pixel. However I think I've picked the monitor I'll be purchasing, PP Glossy. Unless of course by glossy they mean the bezel.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiked*
> 
> Haha, its all good but ya that's pretty much what I figured was the purpose. On another note, what is this "perfect glossy/matte" I have seen in a few titles, I wasn't paying a lot of attention and almost mistook it for perfect pixel. However I think I've picked the monitor I'll be purchasing, PP Glossy. Unless of course by glossy they mean the bezel.


All the bezels are glossy







Though someone on here modded their's by spraying it with matte black paint.

I hope you have no reflective stuff near you at all. I'm not sure how big the difference between matte and glossy on these monitors is, but I've gone from glossy TN to matte X-Star and can say the lack of reflections is well worth any slight drop in IQ.


----------



## Fiked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> All the bezels are glossy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though someone on here modded their's by spraying it with matte black paint.
> 
> I hope you have no reflective stuff near you at all. I'm not sure how big the difference between matte and glossy on these monitors is, but I've gone from glossy TN to matte X-Star and can say the lack of reflections is well worth any slight drop in IQ.


Glossy isn't a worry, I'm already using a glossy 1080p monitor. Lucky the positioning of window lighting in my room allows a lot of light in with very little screen glare in return, and if it becomes a real bother I have good blinds.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> So here's my Green-Sum QNIX (non pixel perfect) monitor. As you can see, I have no dead pixels or stuck pixels. Additionally, the monitor does have bleeding on the lower right hand corner. I have no idea if it's minor, but I really hope that it is not. Is this minor bleeding?
> 
> Dark #1 is what my monitor looks like to me in the dark most of the times.


Yes that is definitely very minor bleed, at least relatively speaking, especially considering photos usually make it appear worse. Loosening the screw on that end there could help too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*
> 
> Can't get my 110hz to stick. Everytime i reboot i lose the option to go higher than 60 in control panel and have to reapply everything. Ideas?
> 
> Cheers


I assume using CRU and the 110Hz entry needs to be on the top of the list in that app. That is the default Windows will choose each boot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiked*
> 
> A quick question, why would some monitors, seemingly the same, cost two separate prices? Are they actually different or do they more reflect what the seller payed for them at the time?
> 
> Namely:
> 
> Monitor 1
> 
> Monitor 2


I don't know; there is no specific (or noteworthy) "reason". There is a seller with smaller stock called AllKillSale who has them just over $400 last I looked. Lots of different sellers = some differing prices. Wise to shop around eBay as much as possible on any given day if you are looking to buy still.


----------



## Outlawed

So I have yet to take my bezel apart to try and fix BLB. I have however pried and pushed on the sections where the BLB is with completely no change.

I am assuming that the tape mod won't fix it and the issue actually comes from the metal casing the panel is housed in. I read somewhere in this thread at some point that this could also be bent and corrected. Any links or suggestions on how to do this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titcchy*
> 
> I also had to purchase a higher priced DVI-D cable that supports 2560x1440 because the cable you receive is only 1.5m or less. Just be careful on the cable you buy as not all DVI-D cables support 2560x1440 and will make your display unusable.


Hmm, I am just using the dvi-d that came with the qx2710. Now at 120hz it is the issues are coming from the monitor. Lines start appearing and it I am scared to keep it at that refresh rate for more than a few seconds.

When I take it down to 110hz the only thing I notice is a semi-unnoticeable back image issue in the upper right hand corner of the screen. It' almost exactly like that same effect you see on some videos when they record a monitor where the screen seems to be flickering.

It just seems a lot faster and again it's only slightly noticeable and appears only in the upper right hand corner. I wonder if that specifically has something to do with the cable?


----------



## MrHamm

Hey guys,

Is anyone running a EVGA GT610 (02G-P3-2617-KR) with one Qnix Monitor? Or know if it runs?

Thanks.


----------



## titcchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHamm*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Is anyone running a EVGA GT610 (02G-P3-2617-KR) with one Qnix Monitor? Or know if it runs?
> 
> Thanks.


Apparently the EVGA GT610 supports the following:

240Hz Max Refresh Rate
Max Analog : 2048x1536
Max Digital : 2560x1600 (Dual Link DVI Only)

I assume it has a DVI-I Dual Link input on it otherwise it wouldn't state that it supports it, so although I have no experience with that card, it should run it more than perfectly.


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHamm*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Is anyone running a EVGA GT610 (02G-P3-2617-KR) with one Qnix Monitor? Or know if it runs?
> 
> Thanks.


Seeing as I've run two monitors off my archaic 8500GT I think you should be fine.


----------



## titcchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Hmm, I am just using the dvi-d that came with the qx2710. Now at 120hz it is the issues are coming from the monitor. Lines start appearing and it I am scared to keep it at that refresh rate for more than a few seconds.
> 
> When I take it down to 110hz the only thing I notice is a semi-unnoticeable back image issue in the upper right hand corner of the screen. It' almost exactly like that same effect you see on some videos when they record a monitor where the screen seems to be flickering.
> 
> It just seems a lot faster and again it's only slightly noticeable and appears only in the upper right hand corner. I wonder if that specifically has something to do with the cable?


I don't have a clue about the semi-unoticable back image issue you talk about but I do have the slight lines at 120hz (Very rarely during games only though) and I've purchased a very high quality cable and shall let you know if it improves or not. I don't see much difference from 110hz to 120hz though and it's slightly safer to run at 110hz anyway.


----------



## MrHamm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Seeing as I've run two monitors off my archaic 8500GT I think you should be fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titcchy*
> 
> Apparently the EVGA GT610 supports the following:
> 
> 240Hz Max Refresh Rate
> Max Analog : 2048x1536
> Max Digital : 2560x1600 (Dual Link DVI Only)
> 
> I assume it has a DVI-I Dual Link input on it otherwise it wouldn't state that it supports it, so although I have no experience with that card, it should run it more than perfectly.


Thanks guys. I'm just worried cause the port picture doesnt look like the one I have in the back of my GT 610. And it says Dual DVI-I but not DVI-D.

The monitor states it only takes DVD-D

Is there a difference?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHamm*
> 
> Thanks guys. I'm just worried cause the port picture doesnt look like the one I have in the back of my GT 610. And it says Dual DVI-I but not DVI-D.
> 
> The monitor states it only takes DVD-D
> 
> Is there a difference?


For you? No. Only if you run VGA monitors does it matter.


----------



## dmikester1

Already searched this thread, but it is obviously huge. Are these monitors generally considered better than the Catleaps that were so popular a while back? And if so, why?
Thanks
Mike


----------



## apav

So I emailed Ipsledmonitors.com and got a reply, I'd like to quote a few things he said and make a few comments. Maybe this will help someone with their decision to go with this site or not.
Quote:


> Technically there is no limit on the number of exchanges, however, at some point we'd have to ask if the product is right for you. As you're probably aware, backlight bleed can range from good to very bad (never perfect) on QNIX/X-star monitors. Pixel defects are fairly common on A- panels, often they go unnoticed, but bright pixels tend to be the easiest to spot. Perfect 120Hz operation is rare, most monitors have sporadic occurrences of screen tearing depending on the source. We've received reports that even cable length/impedance can effect on 120Hz operation.
> 
> We don't want to deter you from ordering another QNIX or X-star monitor, but we feel it is important that we do not misrepresent our products or our service. If you are unhappy with your purchase we will gladly offer an exchange or return, but we simply cannot send you 5 or more monitors with the high demand we have for QNIX and X-star monitors right now. We hope you understand.


That's in response to how many times I can exchange a monitor that has some defect. I would never want to take advantage of them, nor do I think I will get unlucky beyond my first or second monitor, but it's good to know that they'll still want to work with you after your 1st exchange.

Also what piqued my interest is their statement that getting a perfect 120hz overclock is rare. On the first page of this club is the pie chart of reported overclocks. 120hz is the highest percentage at 37.2%. Granted that could be inaccurate, but from what I've read in this club, it seems like 120hz is pretty common. I'm just wondering why he put that in there. If he sells these monitors, he should know that that's not the case.
Quote:


> We have shipped 35+ X-star DP2710LED monitors this month. We received one backlight bleeding complaint, but the user had full brightness set, and one dead-pixel issue. So unfortunately, we can no longer say our X-star batch is perfect. I would still recommend the X-star because the failure rate has been lower than the QNIX (which we sell more of).


Someone a couple pages back quoted an email from them a week ago saying that they've been getting a perfect batch of X-Stars (no problems reported). So that led me to ask the question if currently they're having a better batch of X-Stars or QNIX right now, or if one is known to have less defects than the other. I was expecting to hear that the chances of getting a defective monitor would be equal between them (because they are identical monitors), but apparently not. Maybe not though, they sell less X-Stars overall, so of course they're going to get less people reporting any defects.
Quote:


> There is a standard 1 year manufacturer warranty that covers parts and labor. However, the customer is responsible for shipping to the manufacturer in South Korea. This is why we offer a 3 year replacement warranty. You are also free to purchase a third-party warranty through SquareTrade if you prefer.


Just as I thought. If you don't get an added warranty, you'd be actually dealing with the Korean seller they buy from.
Quote:


> We cannot offer any additional discounts on QNIX or X-star monitors, demand is extremely high. We're anticipating the manufacturer to raise prices on our next order.


And lastly, just wanted to through that in there if anyone was looking for a deal from this site. I guess the deal is the ability to return it, and possibly a better chance at getting a perfect monitor?

Just wanted to provide some more info for anyone looking to buy from these guys


----------



## Intricate09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intricate09*
> 
> I bought two of these, as well as a new GTX 770 to power them. One is nearly flawless, with just 1 dead pixel that's barely noticeable. Unfortunately, the other has a TERRIBLE line on the left side that is just downright unacceptable.
> 
> 
> 
> I've switched power cords, tried a new DVI, and plugged the monitor into two other computers. It's definitely the monitor itself causing this problem.
> 
> I'm assuming I just have to ship this one back. Is there any home fix for this before I start this dreadful process?


So, just to update. I returned the monitor to green-sum just fine. He payed full return shipping and sent me a brand new QNix, and it arrived today (5 days early!) and is flawless. Turnaround time was a bit slow, but for shipping to and from Korea, things went smoothly.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> So I have yet to take my bezel apart to try and fix BLB. I have however pried and pushed on the sections where the BLB is with completely no change.
> 
> I am assuming that the tape mod won't fix it and the issue actually comes from the metal casing the panel is housed in. I read somewhere in this thread at some point that this could also be bent and corrected. Any links or suggestions on how to do this?


I would not assume the tape mod won't have any effect. Look in first post for more info incl. links to some YouTube vids where dude totally disassembles. Yeah others have posted stuff toobut buried now I guess.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> Already searched this thread, but it is obviously huge. Are these monitors generally considered better than the Catleaps that were so popular a while back? And if so, why?
> Thanks
> Mike


Those are LG IPS screens and these are Samsung PLS, first of all, and QNIX and X-Stars can "overclock" refresh rate above 60Hz (which the first Catleaps could do as well but then they changed the PCB apparently). Also fantastic contrast ratio, a really nice semi-gloss matte (glossy can be vibrant but soooo reflective) and also cheaper too. Though I just looked at Catleap prices now and looks like they have come down a little to near $350.

A lot more info in Post #1 of this thread.


----------



## moonshine6456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> So I emailed Ipsledmonitors.com and got a reply, I'd like to quote a few things he said and make a few comments. Maybe this will help someone with their decision to go with this site or not.
> That's in response to how many times I can exchange a monitor that has some defect. I would never want to take advantage of them, nor do I think I will get unlucky beyond my first or second monitor, but it's good to know that they'll still want to work with you after your 1st exchange.
> 
> Also what piqued my interest is their statement that getting a perfect 120hz overclock is rare. On the first page of this club is the pie chart of reported overclocks. 120hz is the highest percentage at 37.2%. Granted that could be inaccurate, but from what I've read in this club, it seems like 120hz is pretty common. I'm just wondering why he put that in there. If he sells these monitors, he should know that that's not the case.
> Someone a couple pages back quoted an email from them a week ago saying that they've been getting a perfect batch of X-Stars (no problems reported). So that led me to ask the question if currently they're having a better batch of X-Stars or QNIX right now, or if one is known to have less defects than the other. I was expecting to hear that the chances of getting a defective monitor would be equal between them (because they are identical monitors), but apparently not. Maybe not though, they sell less X-Stars overall, so of course they're going to get less people reporting any defects.
> Just as I thought. If you don't get an added warranty, you'd be actually dealing with the Korean seller they buy from.
> And lastly, just wanted to through that in there if anyone was looking for a deal from this site. I guess the deal is the ability to return it, and possibly a better chance at getting a perfect monitor?
> 
> Just wanted to provide some more info for anyone looking to buy from these guys


Awesome information +rep









Still thinking about whether to pull the trigger to buy one or not! The only thing holding me back is what to do with the my current 24 inch asus 144hz that I purchased a little over a month ago


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> Awesome information +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still thinking about whether to pull the trigger to buy one or not! The only thing holding me back is what to do with the my current 24 inch asus 144hz that I purchased a little over a month ago


My pleasure, and I'm sure you'll think of something...


----------



## supdubdup

Hello, how are you guys controlling your color management stuff for multiple refresh rates? My current process takes to long...having to change the system default color every time through devices. (And for changing refresh rate too?)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

There is a small app from X-Rite for switching a little more easily but most just use the control panel. The link to the app is buried tho and their website can be tough. Not sure if it made it to the first post.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> There is a small app from X-Rite for switching a little more easily but most just use the control panel. The link to the app is buried tho and their website can be tough. Not sure if it made it to the first post.


Found it by searching color profiler in this thread. Might be a nice addition to the OP.

http://www.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?ID=757&Action=support&SoftwareID=539


----------



## supdubdup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Found it by searching color profiler in this thread. Might be a nice addition to the OP.
> 
> http://www.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?ID=757&Action=support&SoftwareID=539


I can't seem to tell if the product is loading the correct icc profile's gamma correction/
it's the thing about "use windows display calibration/"


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> Awesome information +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still thinking about whether to pull the trigger to buy one or not! The only thing holding me back is what to do with the my current 24 inch asus 144hz that I purchased a little over a month ago


Sell it to fund your IPS. That's what I did with my 27" VG278h.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> Hello, how are you guys controlling your color management stuff for multiple refresh rates? My current process takes to long...having to change the system default color every time through devices. (And for changing refresh rate too?)


Ehh it doesn't seem too bad. After you change the refresh rate go to start menu and type "col" and hit enter. Then you just select the profile you want and apply it and you're good to go. 5 seconds of time.


----------



## supdubdup

Wait a minute...does the enabled icc profile override the Windows Color System Defaults Device profile if the profile and device are different? (120hz enabled icc vs the 60 hz profile that was on before hand since the 60 hz was the system default).


----------



## moonshine6456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Sell it to fund your IPS. That's what I did with my 27" VG278h.


Where did you sell yours? Ebay? HOw much do you think I can get for it? Its for 280 right now







Shipping this monitor would probably cost 60 bucks too!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Sell it to fund your IPS. That's what I did with my 27" VG278h.
> Ehh it doesn't seem too bad. After you change the refresh rate go to start menu and type "col" and hit enter. Then you just select the profile you want and apply it and you're good to go. 5 seconds of time.


I just set my color management on my desktop.. Nice and easy..


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> Where did you sell yours? Ebay? HOw much do you think I can get for it? Its for 280 right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shipping this monitor would probably cost 60 bucks too!


Yup sold it on ebay and mine cost $77 to send to Alaska. It would have probably been a lot less if it would have been in the continental us. Your monitor should be lighter too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I just set my color management on my desktop.. Nice and easy..


That defiantly works too.


----------



## Fiked

I have been wondering, for people who have purchased monitors, whom should I buy from. Right now its a decision between Green-sum and Dream-seller, I assume they are both good sellers.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiked*
> 
> I have been wondering, for people who have purchased monitors, whom should I buy from. Right now its a decision between Green-sum and Dream-seller, I assume they are both good sellers.


If I were to buy one right now I would choose green sum..


----------



## Fiked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> If I were to buy one right now I would choose green sum..


Is there a specific reason or just that you have dealt with him in the past?


----------



## wntrsnowg

hulustar has been great for me. I have never read anything negative on them in this thread.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiked*
> 
> Is there a specific reason or just that you have dealt with him in the past?


I have never dealt with him at all. I have had my monitor for 70 days and been a member on here for the same and I've read every post on here.. And green sum seems to take care of any monitor issues more then any other seller..


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> hulustar has been great for me. I have never read anything negative on them in this thread.


I also bought mine from Hulustar and had no issues.. But there is a member on here who got a horrible BLB un fixable monitor from Hulustar and they told him they would replace it. But all they did was try and stall him until his ebay claim ran out.. They told him everyday that DHL will be there and 2 weeks passed and nothing . so based on that I no longer recommend Hulustar..


----------



## Fiked

So a Perfect Pixel from him would probably be the best choice I suppose, the monitor is namely this.


----------



## scyy

Has anyone had any issues running one of these monitors in SLI mode with the latest beta driver release? When I enable SLI in the 326.19 beta's the monitor disappears from my monitor selection and the blue led starts blinking from lost signal. Everything runs fine on the last wqhl in SLI.


----------



## exzacklyright

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6

so tempting... about to click... ahhhhhhhh


----------



## adriangb

Has anyone found some temporary override or something to fix the issue with the latest Nvidia drivers? It's either that or I refresh my PC and spend hours reinstalling everything... I made a thread here but I wanted to ask here in case someone had solved it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

I don't know of anything, sorry. So glad I got away from nvidia. I had problems with the driver(s) from the day I put it in, until the day i got it out


----------



## shatterstar

hey guys got a question.

I have 3 Qnix 2710 & they are overclocked to 100hz and in Surround. I Followed the guide to over clocking them but have some strange resolution problems. Would the overclocking and leaving it them in the state of "Windows Test Mode" affect resolutions for programs and games?


----------



## doco

my hp monitor stand mount came earlier today, and so i attempted to fix the BLB while removing the stock stand. to my surprise all of my BLB is gone! all i did was tried to make the metal frame as straight as possible and added electrical tape on all four sides. i put the metal frame on a table as a test to see if it was straight. if it wobbled i would try to gently bend it and try again. the hardest part of taking apart this monitor casing is the metal frame itself on the display panel. the rest is easy.

unfortunately the lowest height setting for the hp monitor stand was a little bit too high for me. so i gave it to my shimian and it was perfect. i ordered the gateway stand as it seems to go lower then the hp for height adjustment if the measurements on the ebay page are true.


Spoiler: pictures



i didn't bother to put the front bezel back on. still trying to decide if i should go and buy plastidip to make it black matte. i have time to decide until the gateway stand arrives.



my camera showed some funky PLS glow on a full black screen. i don't see those at all in the dark on a black screen, and so i had to pause some movies with black borders to show no BLB. the BLB before was ok when i first viewed the monitor, but as time went on it made me criinge anytime i view things on a black screen. so my OCD on getting rid it got the better of me.


----------



## apav

I replied to Ipsledmonitors' email (my first post about it can be found here.)

I asked them if they're having a better batch of the QNIX or X-Star right now (which one had a lower percentage of failing/defective monitors), and this is what they had to say.
Quote:


> Failure rate is a percentage of returned monitors. Keep in mind we don't have metrics on every monitor that ships, most the time we don't get any feedback from the customer. We can only track # of monitors returned / # monitors sold. Currently the X-star is performing better in that regard.


Like they said, keep in mind that some people may not have reported any defects or asked to return it, so there is no way for them to get an actual accurate measurement.

However since my QNIX had some defects and eventually failed on me, I've decided to give X-Star a try this time. It's only 9 cents more


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shatterstar*
> 
> hey guys got a question.
> 
> I have 3 Qnix 2710 & they are overclocked to 100hz and in Surround. I Followed the guide to over clocking them but have some strange resolution problems. Would the overclocking and leaving it them in the state of "Windows Test Mode" affect resolutions for programs and games?


There shouldn't be a change in resolutions and stuff when overclocking unless you changed the profile to a different resolution. Go back in CRU and check your settings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> my hp monitor stand mount came earlier today, and so i attempted to fix the BLB while removing the stock stand. to my surprise all of my BLB is gone! all i did was tried to make the metal frame as straight as possible and added electrical tape on all four sides. i put the metal frame on a table as a test to see if it was straight. if it wobbled i would try to gently bend it and try again. the hardest part of taking apart this monitor casing is the metal frame itself on the display panel. the rest is easy.
> 
> unfortunately the lowest height setting for the hp monitor stand was a little bit too high for me. so i gave it to my shimian and it was perfect. i ordered the gateway stand as it seems to go lower then the hp for height adjustment if the measurements on the ebay page are true.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pictures
> 
> 
> 
> i didn't bother to put the front bezel back on. still trying to decide if i should go and buy plastidip to make it black matte. i have time to decide until the gateway stand arrives.
> 
> 
> 
> my camera showed some funky PLS glow on a full black screen. i don't see those at all in the dark on a black screen, and so i had to pause some movies with black borders to show no BLB. the BLB before was ok when i first viewed the monitor, but as time went on it made me criinge anytime i view things on a black screen. so my OCD on getting rid it got the better of me.


What HP Stand is that? And what is the gateway stand?
I'm considering getting a stand.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I replied to Ipsledmonitors' email (my first post about it can be found here.)
> 
> I asked them if they're having a better batch of the QNIX or X-Star right now (which one had a lower percentage of failing/defective monitors), and this is what they had to say.
> Like they said, keep in mind that some people may not have reported any defects or asked to return it, so there is no way for them to get an actual accurate measurement.
> 
> However since my QNIX had some defects and eventually failed on me, I've decided to give X-Star a try this time. It's only 9 cents more


Well.. To be honest i think it's totally random whoever gets a good overclocker or more or less BLB. I'm still quite sure that the only difference between these two monitors is the logo on the front.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> What HP Stand is that? And what is the gateway stand?
> I'm considering getting a stand.


gateway stand
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gateway-Adjustable-LCD-Stand-with-4-USB-20-Ports-NEW-/120857358937

hp stand. remove the funky hp thing on it and it becomes a vesa monitor stand for any vesa compatible monitor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> gateway stand
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gateway-Adjustable-LCD-Stand-with-4-USB-20-Ports-NEW-/120857358937
> 
> hp stand. remove the funky hp thing on it and it becomes a vesa monitor stand for any vesa compatible monitor.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e


Update us with which one you like the most, also is these available in the uk amazon? Can't seem to find them. But i certainly don't want to pay 50 Bucks shipping plus taxes for those.


----------



## apav

Well, as much as I wanted to try the X-Star after my defective QNIX, I was still a weary about the response time discrepancies and the fact that we don't fully know if there are any internal parts that are different. So I left it to a blind coin toss, and the QNIX won 3 times in a row. I'll take that as a sign.


----------



## Protoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> hulustar has been great for me. I have never read anything negative on them in this thread.


*Wrong*. And want to know what Hulustar replied with in my case?
Quote:


> Hello
> 
> Check normal background.
> 
> You can not see. Even paly movie too.
> 
> Please take a picture with that.
> 
> THanks.
> 
> - hulustar


After letting hulustar know how ridiculous that was I too was told that DHL would pick up the monitor. Never did, and no further contact. I've since fixed the BLB by bending the metal frame carefully and replaced the ****ty base with an HP one someone mentioned in this thread. Can't go back to 1080 after 1440.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Well, as much as I wanted to try the X-Star after my defective QNIX, I was still a weary about the response time discrepancies and the fact that we don't fully know if there are any internal parts that are different. So I left it to a blind coin toss, and the QNIX won 3 times in a row. I'll take that as a sign.


The response time is actually the same (6ms) according to the manual that goes with the X-Star.
Anyways coin toss seems like the best method of choosing








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> *Wrong*. And want to know what Hulustar replied with in my case?
> After letting hulustar know how ridiculous that was I too was told that DHL would pick up the monitor. Never did, and no further contact. I've since fixed the BLB by bending the metal frame carefully and replaced the ****ty base with an HP one someone mentioned in this thread. Can't go back to 1080 after 1440.


Weird i have also never heard bad of Hulustar - Guess they can't satisfy all their costumers.
Anyways the HP stand that you mentioned, is that this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e ?

If so, how is it?


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> Awesome information +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still thinking about whether to pull the trigger to buy one or not! The only thing holding me back is what to do with the my current 24 inch asus 144hz that I purchased a little over a month ago


Sell it on ebay? Look around on there see what others are selling theirs for and get an idea what to start pricing it at, and I would only ship it to lower 48 state buyers and I would also use parcel select with usps to cut down on the cost of shipping. I sold a 23" monitor on there cost 21 dollars to ship from CA to Arkansas, but of course buyer paid for shipping.


----------



## stubinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> *Wrong*. And want to know what Hulustar replied with in my case?
> After letting hulustar know how ridiculous that was I too was told that DHL would pick up the monitor. Never did, and no further contact. I've since fixed the BLB by bending the metal frame carefully and replaced the ****ty base with an HP one someone mentioned in this thread. Can't go back to 1080 after 1440.


that is petty bad IMO. the auction states BLB is not considered a defect. hulustar could have just said "sorry that's not a defect". But lying about DHL to get you to go away is a whole new level of shady.


----------



## Lazdaa

Any chance that one of you guys know the length of the stock cable?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Made new profiles, changed the gamma curve from flat 2.2 to sRGB gamma which is the industry standard for use on monitors, printers, and the Internet.
> 
> 60hz
> 
> 96hz
> 
> Been using 2.2 for years until I tried using the sRGB gamma recently, dark details become easier to see and movies & TV shows look more natural.


Updated to the OP. Sorry for the delay


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Any chance that one of you guys know the length of the stock cable?


6ft


----------



## Protoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Anyways the HP stand that you mentioned, is that this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e ?
> 
> If so, how is it?


LV980AA - yep that's it. It's awesome. I just used the screws that came with the LV980AA and mounted it directly to the monitor (after removing the proprietary HP plate thingy) and boom I was done. Looks great, makes the monitor way taller, and I don't have a heart attack if I accidentally bump into my desk anymore. Price is nice too.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> hulustar has been great for me. I have never read anything negative on them in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> *Wrong*. And want to know what Hulustar replied with in my case?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> Check normal background.
> 
> You can not see. Even paly movie too.
> 
> Please take a picture with that.
> 
> THanks.
> 
> - hulustar
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> After letting hulustar know how ridiculous that was I too was told that DHL would pick up the monitor. Never did, and no further contact. I've since fixed the BLB by bending the metal frame carefully and replaced the ****ty base with an HP one someone mentioned in this thread. Can't go back to 1080 after 1440.
Click to expand...

They definitely shouldn't have lied to you saying they would take it back, but never did. I would say that was their only fault, and a major one.

However, I agree with wrigleyvillain's comments.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protoe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Anyways the HP stand that you mentioned, is that this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e ?
> 
> If so, how is it?
> 
> 
> 
> LV980AA - yep that's it. It's awesome. I just used the screws that came with the LV980AA and mounted it directly to the monitor (after removing the proprietary HP plate thingy) and boom I was done. Looks great, makes the monitor way taller, and I don't have a heart attack if I accidentally bump into my desk anymore. Price is nice too.
Click to expand...

Definitely the best monitor stand for the price that I currently know of. I love the way mine looks too, and that it had no HP branding on it. Makes the entire monitor look more legit


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Definitely the best monitor stand for the price that I currently know of. I love the way mine looks too, and that it had no HP branding on it. Makes the entire monitor look more legit


Is that the exact same as i linked? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e)

Does you guys have any luck finding it on Amazon?


----------



## luciddreamer124

I can highly recommend this one as well. It just arrived a couple days ago (don't have my monitor yet still on the way) and it's super sturdy. A little more pricey than the HP one but I personally think it looks cleaner. I threw a different monitor on there to see how it was and there is absolutely no wobble.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C29QN8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## mdrejhon

For people using the great shurcooL's Refresh Rate Multitool, to check if an overclocked monitor is frame-skipping or not:

There's a much easier, new web-based tool at TestUFO for frame rate skipping checks:
*www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping*

For accurate "perfect-VSYNC" frame skipping checks up to 240Hz, use only Chrome (chrome://gpu enabled) or Opera 15+. Internet Explorer 10 can do accurate frame skipping checks up to about 105Hz. FireFox 24+ pre-beta does great frame skipping checks at 60Hz, but starts to degrade as you go higher. Quit all applications, disable tools that accesses disk, and give 100% CPU to the webbrowser. *Check your webbrowser's VSYNC support*.

You do not need a high speed camera; it works with a standard photographic camera set to a 1/10th second shutter speed. It's very easy to tell if a frame has been skipped, if you see gaps in the resulting photograph. Even an iPhone camera works too!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mdrejhon*
> 
> For people using the great shurcooL's Refresh Rate Multitool, to check if an overclocked monitor is frame-skipping or not:
> 
> There's a much easier, new web-based tool at TestUFO for frame rate skipping checks:
> *www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping*
> 
> For accurate "perfect-VSYNC" frame skipping checks up to 240Hz, use only Chrome (chrome://gpu enabled) or Opera 15+. Internet Explorer 10 can do accurate frame skipping checks up to about 105Hz. FireFox 24+ pre-beta does great frame skipping checks at 60Hz, but starts to degrade as you go higher. Quit all applications, disable tools that accesses disk, and give 100% CPU to the webbrowser. *Check your webbrowser's VSYNC support*.
> 
> You do not need a high speed camera; it works with a standard photographic camera set to a 1/10th second shutter speed. It's very easy to tell if a frame has been skipped, if you see gaps in the resulting photograph. Even an iPhone camera works too!


Sweet.. Thank you.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah someone with a defective unit awhile ago said Hulustar had suggested they kick in the box and blame DHL. None of these guys would prefer to take anything out of their pockets if can be avoided and they are only seemingly "honest" as long as it helps sales/image.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mdrejhon*
> 
> For people using the great shurcooL's Refresh Rate Multitool, to check if an overclocked monitor is frame-skipping or not:
> 
> There's a much easier, new web-based tool at TestUFO for frame rate skipping checks:
> *www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping*
> 
> For accurate "perfect-VSYNC" frame skipping checks up to 240Hz, use only Chrome (chrome://gpu enabled) or Opera 15+. Internet Explorer 10 can do accurate frame skipping checks up to about 105Hz. FireFox 24+ pre-beta does great frame skipping checks at 60Hz, but starts to degrade as you go higher. Quit all applications, disable tools that accesses disk, and give 100% CPU to the webbrowser. *Check your webbrowser's VSYNC support*.
> 
> You do not need a high speed camera; it works with a standard photographic camera set to a 1/10th second shutter speed. It's very easy to tell if a frame has been skipped, if you see gaps in the resulting photograph. Even an iPhone camera works too!


This means no skipping right?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mdrejhon*
> 
> For people using the great shurcooL's Refresh Rate Multitool, to check if an overclocked monitor is frame-skipping or not:
> 
> There's a much easier, new web-based tool at TestUFO for frame rate skipping checks:
> *www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping*
> 
> For accurate "perfect-VSYNC" frame skipping checks up to 240Hz, use only Chrome (chrome://gpu enabled) or Opera 15+. Internet Explorer 10 can do accurate frame skipping checks up to about 105Hz. FireFox 24+ pre-beta does great frame skipping checks at 60Hz, but starts to degrade as you go higher. Quit all applications, disable tools that accesses disk, and give 100% CPU to the webbrowser. *Check your webbrowser's VSYNC support*.
> 
> You do not need a high speed camera; it works with a standard photographic camera set to a 1/10th second shutter speed. It's very easy to tell if a frame has been skipped, if you see gaps in the resulting photograph. Even an iPhone camera works too!


Before everyone starts freaking out i want everyone to know that you must also turn off any secondary monitors that you have attached that are likely at a different refresh rate for this to get accurate readings as well.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> This means no skipping right?


Yes there is no skipping since there is no boxes that are being "skipped"


----------



## frankietown

hey guys,

so i got an nvidia 780 classified.

when i try to overclock just with the nvidia panel, games cant detect it. when i use cru, when i reboot it goes away from the control panel settings. and now games cant see it either.

any tips? what about the precision x overclocking.. do we have to patch the driver still to use it?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankietown*
> 
> hey guys,
> 
> so i got an nvidia 780 classified.
> 
> when i try to overclock just with the nvidia panel, games cant detect it. when i use cru, when i reboot it goes away from the control panel settings. and now games cant see it either.
> 
> any tips? what about the precision x overclocking.. do we have to patch the driver still to use it?


Did you start test mode?


----------



## moonshine6456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> gateway stand
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gateway-Adjustable-LCD-Stand-with-4-USB-20-Ports-NEW-/120857358937
> 
> hp stand. remove the funky hp thing on it and it becomes a vesa monitor stand for any vesa compatible monitor.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e


Just gave in and purchased a QNIX from ipsledmonitors









I purchased the HP stand that you linked, does it come with screws? Or will I have to find some myself?

Also can someone recommend me a roomy L desk?


----------



## frankietown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Did you start test mode?


yep yep. so basically with patch -> test mode -> CRU -> reboot everything is good... until i shut down my monitor. upon reboot, it will lose the overclock


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankietown*
> 
> yep yep. so basically with patch -> test mode -> CRU -> reboot everything is good... until i shutdown my monitor. upon reboot, it will lose the overclock


I think you're supposed to reboot straight after test mode to see if it is permanent.

All I can suggest is unpatch your drivers (or better, get the latest from the web and install that) and remove the custom profile, restart, and try again. This time check after activating test mode that it is permanent.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I can highly recommend this one as well. It just arrived a couple days ago (don't have my monitor yet still on the way) and it's super sturdy. A little more pricey than the HP one but I personally think it looks cleaner. I threw a different monitor on there to see how it was and there is absolutely no wobble.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C29QN8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


That stand looks really ugly, but I'm sure it gets the job done though.

I got this one, looks alot better and way more cheaper I'm sure it's just as sturdy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Put the 120 on top of the list in CRU.


----------



## mdrejhon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> This means no skipping right?


Correct, there's no frameskipping.

Ideally when taking a photograph of *www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping*, you want a longer camera exposure speed, to capture at least 10 squares. However, anything that's an unbroken "calendar-style sequence" of squares -- means no frames got skipped during the photographic exposure.


----------



## exzacklyright

Interesting


----------



## Fiked

Just pulled the trigger on a glossy Qnix from Green-sum, what are some good DVI-D cables, are there any decent ones on Newegg more specifically?


----------



## frankietown

IT WORKSSSSS:

if you have nvidia:

- just use precision x to clock it up. no need to patch or test mode.
- add CRU profile of whatever hz you clocked up to.
- reboot

and let the games begin!!!


----------



## scyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankietown*
> 
> hey guys,
> 
> so i got an nvidia 780 classified.
> 
> when i try to overclock just with the nvidia panel, games cant detect it. when i use cru, when i reboot it goes away from the control panel settings. and now games cant see it either.
> 
> any tips? what about the precision x overclocking.. do we have to patch the driver still to use it?


Are you running the latest beta drivers? There are abunch of issues with those drivers and monitors without internal scalers like these.


----------



## Turok

This will/should help us all:

Windows 8.1 DPI Scaling Enhancements

http://blogs.windows.com/windows/b/extremewindows/archive/2013/07/15/windows-8-1-dpi-scaling-enhancements.aspx


----------



## ShakDiesel

I recently purchased a qnix from dream-seller, no dead pixels with minimal bleed and it can overclock to 120Hz. My question is since it gets darker at higher refresh rates do the icc color profiles only provide the changes in certain applications or will I see the profiles active in games and on the desktop?


----------



## Blitos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShakDiesel*
> 
> I recently purchased a qnix from dream-seller, no dead pixels with minimal bleed and it can overclock to 120Hz. My question is since it gets darker at higher refresh rates do the icc color profiles only provide the changes in certain applications or will I see the profiles active in games and on the desktop?


AFAIK color profiles are "general" profiles, not per app. In other words the active profile applies to everything that is displayed, desktop and games.


----------



## ShakDiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitos*
> 
> AFAIK color profiles are "general" profiles, not per app. In other words the active profile applies to everything that is displayed, desktop and games.


That's really weird I followed the instructions in the OP and when I activate a profile by making it the default the screen flashes too the would be color profile and then back to the original dark screen.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShakDiesel*
> 
> That's really weird I followed the instructions in the OP and when I activate a profile by making it the default the screen flashes too the would be color profile and then back to the original dark screen.


Regardless of how a profile is suppose to work i have had issues with windows color profiles completely being ignored by many games and some applications. I have found calibrating with the driver software to "stick" quite a bit more. As for it not staying on i would try the little app for color profile switching that was posted a few pages back. Also if you search "color profiler" it is pretty easy to find in this thread.


----------



## SamTheGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiked*
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on a glossy Qnix from Green-sum, what are some good DVI-D cables, are there any decent ones on Newegg more specifically?


.

I'm also wondering about this. Does the monitor come with a good cable?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheGreat*
> 
> .
> 
> I'm also wondering about this. Does the monitor come with a good cable?


The cable that came with mine works better then a 24awg cable I bought got green lines at 120hz with the monoprice cable..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> The cable that came with mine works better then a 24awg cable I bought got green lines at 120hz with the monoprice cable..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheGreat*
> 
> .
> 
> I'm also wondering about this. Does the monitor come with a good cable?


This has been discussed, the stock cable is a pretty good cable and may work better than most. However there has been several reports that monoprice cables 24AWG specifically have the potential to do better but it is known to be very hit or miss. For example i bought 3 monoprice cables to test with 2 of which did not do any better than the stock cable. The last one got me 6hz farther than before(do not hold this as a certain number it will all very from cable to cable and monitor to monitor). To be more precise this was the difference of being at 132hz and then going to 138hz all other variables remaining equal and image quality remained the same. (please note that i got very lucky with the panel i got with its overclocking ability and you may not be able to go this far with any combination of variables).

With this being said if you do get an aftermarket cable to try and improve your overclocking ability or image quality(uniformity) i would recommend getting at least 3 cables to test with maybe more. Given that on monoprice and most reasonable DVI cable retailers these are only about 5-10 dollars it is not an outstanding price for a project and you can always use the cables elsewhere or sell them like i did(considering there like 40-80 dollars in local stores it should be easy to recoup your loses).

Mainly i don't want a few people who had bad luck buying one cable to shy others away from trying it as another potential variable to get to +120hz stable.


----------



## ShakDiesel

Is it normal for a reddish hue to appear along an edge when trying to overclock?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShakDiesel*
> 
> Is it normal for a reddish hue to appear along an edge when trying to overclock?


Got a picture? Is it a uniformity like effect but just with a hint of red?


----------



## ShakDiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Got a picture? Is it a uniformity like effect but just with a hint of red?


I'll post a picture when I can but it runs like 3" along the bottom left edge, not really an effect but just looks like it's tinted red along that side about 1 cm in width from the panel. Everywhere else is fine and only occurs when trying to overclock, does it matter what cable I use for the power adapter? I just found something random and didn't bother to check to power ratings.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShakDiesel*
> 
> I'll post a picture when I can but it runs like 3" along the bottom left edge, not really an effect but just looks like it's tinted red along that side about 1 cm in width from the panel. Everywhere else is fine and only occurs when trying to overclock, does it matter what cable I use for the power adapter? I just found something random and didn't bother to check to power ratings.


I will be interested to see that picture. So far the issue you are having doesn't sound familiar. It should matter too much regarding the power cable. I do recommend having a good and thick one due to the overclock but it should be just your standard PC power cable.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> gateway stand
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gateway-Adjustable-LCD-Stand-with-4-USB-20-Ports-NEW-/120857358937
> 
> hp stand. remove the funky hp thing on it and it becomes a vesa monitor stand for any vesa compatible monitor.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e
> 
> 
> 
> Just gave in and purchased a QNIX from ipsledmonitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased the HP stand that you linked, does it come with screws? Or will I have to find some myself?
Click to expand...

Yes, it does come with screws. For more info, check the OP for "Good replacement vesa monitor stands" and follow the link to my first post about this stand working. I had to use 4 washers of my own


----------



## wntrsnowg

Just went through the members list to verify new members since 7/12. Only 4/18 new member signups posted a picture, as stated is required.
All other entries are temporarily deleted.
deletions: antiflow, genidoi, dwtp, Protomize, Mada, Ringburner, On1zuka, Abenlog, kilkausw, MADiMk, arod15891, true86no, iwin2000


----------



## Blitos

Talking about pictures...



I'm the proud owner of a new Qnix. Coming from an Asus VG278H the screen does look sluggish sometimes, but the resolution is impressive. I've got it oc'ed to 96Hz with LCD reduced (all kind of weird lines and colors otherwise) and my Geforce GTX670 manages like a champ.
The only problem is a slight headache/nausea sometimes, but I don't know if its the pwm flicker or the high res/small things. I will give it a fhttp://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/4550_50#ew days and see if I get used to it


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitos*
> 
> Talking about pictures...
> 
> 
> 
> I'm the proud owner of a new Qnix. Coming from an Asus VG278H the screen does look sluggish sometimes, but the resolution is impressive. I've got it oc'ed to 96Hz with LCD reduced (all kind of weird lines and colors otherwise) and my Geforce GTX670 manages like a champ.
> The only problem is a slight headache/nausea sometimes, but I don't know if its the pwm flicker or the high res/small things. I will give it a fhttp://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/4550_50#ew days and see if I get used to it


Nice! I noticed the slowness of the monitor too when trying to get fancy in planetside 2 aircraft after coming from a 2ms TN panel. The extra resolution and color far outweigh that though.
Proceed to the OP and fill out the members list form if you are interested in joining the club


----------



## SinfulRoad

Just got mine, too bad I've got like 40 stuck pixels on the bottom left side of my screen. Or I'm assuming their stuck pixels, they only show up on backgrounds that are green and gray, etc.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Just got mine, too bad I've got like 40 stuck pixels on the bottom left side of my screen. Or I'm assuming their stuck pixels, they only show up on backgrounds that are green and gray, etc.


I think that breaks just about every sellers warranty - email and get a replacement asap.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I think that breaks just about every sellers warranty - email and get a replacement asap.


Yeah just emailed. A shame really, It got mailed to my parent's home at the beginning of the week so I went there today from my school to pick it up and well, unlucky me. So I gotta wait again til next Sunday to be able to mail it back.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Yeah just emailed. A shame really, It got mailed to my parent's home at the beginning of the week so I went there today from my school to pick it up and well, unlucky me. So I gotta wait again til next Sunday to be able to mail it back.


I think the sellers normally arrange for it to be picked up. Better luck on the next monitor.


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Help please!

Is this still "_the_ monitor to get" or should I go with the "ACHIEVA Shimian QH2700-IPSMS Lite Edge" for 100 more

Thanks guys


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> Help please!
> 
> Is this still "_the_ monitor to get" or should I go with the "ACHIEVA Shimian QH2700-IPSMS Lite Edge" for 100 more
> 
> Thanks guys


Do you want to be able to OC your monitor?


----------



## oicwutudidthar

I'm not sure really, would a single 780 run games at 120hz?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> I'm not sure really, would a single 780 run games at 120hz?


Depends on the game and the settings in the game.. The shimian can not OC and the Qnix and Xstar can..


----------



## RemagCP

Just read through every post over the past couple of days, really considering one of these.

Also, Tek Syndicate just made a review of an X-Star DP2710, here:


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Just read through every post over the past couple of days, really considering one of these.
> 
> Also, Tek Syndicate just made a review of an X-Star DP2710, here:


Can't believe they didn't talk about how you can OC these monitors..


----------



## RemagCP

That, and I feel they should at least bring up that some have dead pixels and most have BLB.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> That, and I feel they should at least bring up that some have dead pixels and most have BLB.


Very true...


----------



## Protomize

Is this normal for backlight bleeding? If it matters, this is the glossy version.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protomize*
> 
> Is this normal for backlight bleeding? If it matters, this is the glossy version.


Loosening the two back middle screws should get lessen that spot to the left of the Qnix emblem..


----------



## Protomize

Okay, just did that. Bleeding seemed to have lost its focus and smoothed it out to cover a more wider area.


----------



## Reptar

So where do I buy if I want a QNIX with no dead pixels and 120Hz?


----------



## viwe649

Ordered Perfect Pixel matte X-star from Dream Seller last week. Should be good times ahead!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protomize*
> 
> Okay, just did that. Bleeding seemed to have lost its focus and smoothed it out to cover a more wider area.


Thats really not bad at all..Can you see it when watching a movie?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reptar*
> 
> So where do I buy if I want a QNIX with no dead pixels and 120Hz?


Since you are in CA i would buy from here..

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Default.asp


----------



## Protomize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Thats really not bad at all..Can you see it when watchin a movie?


I only see during completely black screens or when the aspect ratio of the image forces black bars on the top and bottom of the display. Just wondering if this was normal. Other than that, this monitor's picture quality is amazing.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protomize*
> 
> I only see during completely black screens or when the aspect ratio of the image forces black bars on the top and bottom of the display. Just wondering if this was normal. Other than that, this monitor's picture quality is amazing.


Yes BLB is pretty common on these monitors..I would say your BLB is pretty good IMO..


----------



## atomicmew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> Help please!
> 
> Is this still "_the_ monitor to get" or should I go with the "ACHIEVA Shimian QH2700-IPSMS Lite Edge" for 100 more
> 
> Thanks guys


I'd say even without the OC ability, the Qnix is better. I don't have my shimian any more to compare side by side, but the Qnix seems a little bit sharper (could be my imagination). But one thing for sure was that the Qnix was by far better color-calibrated out of the box.


----------



## Kisaha2Kisaha

It seems that the specific Shimian QH2700 has better specifications than the PLS ones. I am more into video editing, which one do you think will be better for Adobe suite?


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reptar*
> 
> So where do I buy if I want a QNIX with no dead pixels and 120Hz?


I think I would buy from ebay, with either Green sum or hulustar or dream seller if you wanna save some coin and oh yeah no tax. I bought mine from dream seller shipping took a whole week but if I had to do it all over again I would probably go with green sum, you can always go with these guys. http://www.ipsledmonitors.com I heard you can get up to 5 returns if you can't find a monitor that works for you a little more pricey and they are located in southern california but you are guaranteed a good monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Protomize*
> 
> Okay, just did that. Bleeding seemed to have lost its focus and smoothed it out to cover a more wider area.


You can always open up the monitor and put some black electrical tape over the metal frame just barely over the seem of the panel and the frame stopping that back light bleed it has worked for other members in this thread.


----------



## viwe649

Just got invoice from customs. total cost for monitor with taxes came to US$380!














Will be playing with sexy X-Star real soon!


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> Just got invoice from customs. total cost for monitor with taxes came to US$380!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be playing with sexy X-Star real soon!


Awesome, glad to hear, I'm sure you can't wait to get your hands on it.


----------



## viwe649

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> Awesome, glad to hear, I'm you can't wait to get your hands on it.










My friend,you have no idea!


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My friend,you have no idea!


Ahh damnit I hate when I leave a typo or forgot word, lol I fixed it too early in the morning for me to be on here lol!!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kisaha2Kisaha*
> 
> It seems that the specific Shimian QH2700 has better specifications than the PLS ones. I am more into video editing, which one do you think will be better for Adobe suite?


http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html


----------



## FlipnPanda

So I've been using my QNIX for around 2-3 months now and I've noticed a light spot. I think it appeared some time last night. I sneezed or something and wiped it off with a cloth. I didn't apply much pressure but idek if that's what caused it. I wanted to know if there was a possible fix? And what's the technological term for this "spot"? I feel like you can hardly see it in these pics but I tried =\ Thanks!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Flipnpanda, someone a few pages back posted a youtube video on how to remove irregularities. It might be worth a try if nothing else comes up.

edit: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/4350_30#post_20422943


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Just read through every post over the past couple of days, really considering one of these.
> 
> Also, Tek Syndicate just made a review of an X-Star DP2710, here:


sweeeeet more mainstream reviews to add to the OP. Thanks guys, that section was lacking


----------



## szeged

x star just arrived, ill take pics of the unboxing in a bit, gotta clear room for it on my desk first lol


----------



## MrDucktape

Hi, a friend of mine asked me for a good quality, big (high res and size) and good looking monitor for about 250€, which is arround 330$. Would you recomend one for him?


----------



## faiyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Made new profiles, changed the gamma curve from flat 2.2 to sRGB gamma which is the industry standard for use on monitors, printers, and the Internet.
> 
> 60hz
> 
> 96hz
> 
> Been using 2.2 for years until I tried using the sRGB gamma recently, dark details become easier to see and movies & TV shows look more natural.


Thanks man! Your profiles are awesome.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDucktape*
> 
> Hi, a friend of mine asked me for a good quality, big (high res and size) and good looking monitor for about 250€, which is arround 330$. Would you recomend one for him?


One of these Samsung PLS (QNIX or X-Star) 27" 1440P is his best option even if his budget was a little more. May be customs charges too of course.

Check out Post #1 of this thread for more specific info in one place including a FAQ.


----------



## luciddreamer124

My Qnix matte arrived this morning from ipsledmonitors.com

First thing I have to say... shipping... WOW, it shipped very late Thursday night and arrived today (Monday). Barely 3 business days to get from Korea to right in the middle of the US. The Fedex website even said it was coming 2 days later. I'm nothing less than impressed.

Now for the monitor itself. 0 dead or stuck pixels that I can find, and hardly noticable BLB at the lower left. Honestly I can only see it on a pitch black screen, and even then it's very minimal.

The only complaint I have is how hard it is to remove the stock monitor stand, I mean, really, why do we have to debezel the thing just to get the darn peg off! O well, I was able to pry it off eventually and I got my stand from Amazon on there (which is awesome, BTW).

The monitor looks fantastic, I can't wait to try gaming and OCing this thing!!

Pictures:


----------



## aiya

Just ordered a Perfect Pixel Qnix QX2710 Matte from green-sum, hopefully it arrives by the end of the week.


----------



## luciddreamer124

I can't seem to get my 96hz profile to show up. Still only the option for 60hz


----------



## Swolern

Just ordered a Perfect Pixel Qnix QX2710 glossy from Dream seller. Cant wait! I hope the motion blur is tolerable compared to my VG278H.

*Note to anyone going to use this monitor for gaming. The anti-gloss finish on the matte finish actually distorts picture quality, color, and brightness slightly. Only avoid glossy if you have a direct sunlit room or bright room with no light dimming features. Here is a antigloss film removed (pic by Vega). The film actually makes pic quality slightly fuzzy.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Anyone know how long it takes Green-Sum to send after payment?


----------



## firefox2501

Just resolved my issues with green-sum. I originally got my perfect pixel monitor a few weeks back and had over 50 dead pixels. After working with him through ebay he agreed to replace the monitor and cover shipping. Today the replacement monitor came in and he must of cherry picked it or I got extremely lucky, no dead pixels and running at 120hz. Took a little over a week to ship my monitor back and get the replacement.


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> Anyone know how long it takes Green-Sum to send after payment?


took about 2 days, shipping to the US was very quick though. Think I ordered on Thursday and had it at my doorstep wednesday.


----------



## scyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> Anyone know how long it takes Green-Sum to send after payment?


I ordered on Tuesday and got it Friday in Minnesota if that tells you anything.


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefox2501*
> 
> Just resolved my issues with green-sum. I originally got my perfect pixel monitor a few weeks back and had over 50 dead pixels. After working with him through ebay he agreed to replace the monitor and cover shipping. Today the replacement monitor came in and he must of cherry picked it or I got extremely lucky, no dead pixels and running at 120hz. Took a little over a week to ship my monitor back and get the replacement.


Good to hear.


----------



## oicwutudidthar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scyy*
> 
> I ordered on Tuesday and got it Friday in Minnesota if that tells you anything.


Were you notified that yours had shipped? I'ts been 2 days and I haven't heard anything.


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oicwutudidthar*
> 
> Were you notified that yours had shipped? I'ts been 2 days and I haven't heard anything.


I received an email and the status was updated on ebay.


----------



## MmmSacrilicious

Got my QNIX QX2710 in the mail last week! It took 3 days to get here (Vancouver, Canada), from seller green-sum. I paid $286USD ($308CAD) but then had a $50CAD duty tax to bring it over the border.

My Initial impressions so far:

This monitor looks fantastic! I did NOT pay for the pixel perfect guarantee, but there are no dead, stuck, bright pixels. However, on the top left of the monitor there are 2 "lines" (they are quite wide, like a quarter of an inch) that are brighter than the rest of the display. However, this is really only noticeable in stock images in which the top left is a primarily solid colour. I do not notice it at all while gaming. Also,
There is no black light bleed! I took paint, made an all black image and full-screened it, and I actually couldn't see any bleeding.
Yes, the monitor and casing isn't the greatest, but I got lucky in that my screen isn't crooked and doesn't' really come away from the bezel. It will in some areas if I apply pressure, ]but that is very minor.
I have never had a high Hz monitor or a PLS monitor, so I really don't notice the ghosting that much that people talk about while playing games.
In regards to overclocking, at 96Hz it looks fantastic. At 110Hz I can see what sort of appears to be a faint flickering of the lines. At 120Hz I get red and green lines. Interestingly, I flashed a new bios for my graphics card to increase the core and memory clocks (Have a Gigabyte 7970OC, flashed the GHz bios because this is the only way to get a higher voltage on this card) and the flicker at 110Hz and 120Hz got WORSE. This is a little disappointing, but overall I still can't complain.

qnixqx2710.jpg 1188k .jpg file


----------



## ShakDiesel

Is it normal to be discolored like that when overclocking the qnix to 120Hz. I have a profile set under color management but I don't think it's working, also when you try to change settings to lcd reduced in cru how come the profile goes back to manual?


----------



## Phantasma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShakDiesel*
> 
> Is it normal to be discolored like that when overclocking the qnix to 120Hz. I have a profile set under color management but I don't think it's working, also when you try to change settings to lcd reduced in cru how come the profile goes back to manual?


Yea 120hz discolors the screen like crazy, but it's easily fixable. Check out some other people's icc profiles or run through nvidia color editing and eyeball it







. LCD reduced mode gives me green/red lines out the wazoo (although it's usually more stable for other people) so I can't even use that `-`.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Someone posted a deal on slickdeals.net on these monitors, and it made front page. http://slickdeals.net/
Expect the number of owners of these monitors to skyrocket now.

It isn't even on sale, it is regular price and has been that price for months. Funny how slickdeals works sometimes...


----------



## ColdFlo

Yeah what a tool idiot for rep on a site that will delete you if you say anything they dont like. Don't ever say deals on that site arent good like criticizing people that buy gilette fusion blades instead of proglide claiming the antiquated product is a deal at over 2 dollars per blade considering fusion blades chafe like a mofo. Better start ordering these monitors quick price is about to increase. Slickdeals is becoming a blackhole selling out everything it comes in contact with. Nothing but nerds with 10s of thousands to blow and buy out a whole product to post it on ebay for 30 dollars more........ I have plenty of deals sites they dont know about yet and I won't post either because its only gonna sellout the selection and jackup the price for me in the longrun. LOL people on slickdeals complaining about korean shipping.......... If people are this slow they shouldnt even know about this. These people will try any pair of headphones that costs 25 dollars and see if they are good yet criticize black and grey market(even with significant markdown). God forbid they would actually do some research read head-fi and find out what is good oh and don't tell them you will offend their deal god cheapassedness. These "deal champs" have been posting dell IPS monitors with 5 thumbs up at 700-1000 dollars. Slickdeals is good for one thing cheap crap pack rats and stay at home parents(welfares) with no ability to research anything and have absolutely no taste.

By the way has anyone tried voltmods on these panels? Might clear up the gamma and or overclockability of these panels. Higher switching speed + more voltage =s more forceful switching =s more light(and higher risk). Also have any of you got inside and superglued(just the corners) of some gpu vrm ramsinks(with a swath of phoby hegrease down the center(non capacitive non conductive god thermal grease)) to the pixel clock chip inside(most likely the hottest chip inside the panel). Now that I'm gonna have to order my panel because my gdm-fw900 is dying and some turkey plastered it all over front page of slicknoob I'm gonna have to start modding this panel(besides they are cheaper now ITS TIME







MAUAHAHAHAHAHAHA AHAHAHAHAHAHA AHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAHAAAAAAHAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Someone posted a deal on slickdeals.net on these monitors, and it made front page. http://slickdeals.net/
> Expect the number of owners of these monitors to skyrocket now.
> 
> It isn't even on sale, it is regular price and has been that price for months. Funny how slickdeals works sometimes...


I hope this doesn't cause an increase in price.









Also, has anyone come from a 5ms LCD to this? Did you notice any lag/blur?


----------



## Vinnces

I'm so tempted to get one now with the 10% Ebay coupon even though my Crossover isn't 3 month old yet. It would make it $252 shipped.


----------



## voozers

I'm considering pulling the trigger on a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 2560x1440 WQHD PLS. To people who own it, how is it??? I also hope it lasts long but it's kinda too early for anyone to know that for sure.

Also I read some people don't trust the US adapter that goes into the power brick which goes into the monitor. I plan to OC it to 120hz using NVIDIA control panel.


----------



## jrcbandit

So I decided to order a 2nd monitor to replace my Crossover 27 in LED that has a stuck green pixel near the middle of the screen. Hopefully, I will have better luck this time. I plan to use the Crossover as my 2nd monitor. I was wondering if it is possible to only overclock a single monitor as the Crossover wont support higher refresh rates than 60 hz, while the X-star/Qnix do.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:
Originally Posted by MenacingTuba

Made new profiles, changed the gamma curve from flat 2.2 to sRGB gamma which is the industry standard for use on monitors, printers, and the Internet.

60hz

96hz

Been using 2.2 for years until I tried using the sRGB gamma recently, dark details become easier to see and movies & TV shows look more natural

----
Just changed my profiles to this, v nice, thanks


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MmmSacrilicious*
> 
> Got my QNIX QX2710 in the mail last week! It took 3 days to get here (Vancouver, Canada), from seller green-sum. I paid $286USD ($308CAD) but then had a $50CAD duty tax to bring it over the border.
> 
> My Initial impressions so far:
> 
> This monitor looks fantastic! I did NOT pay for the pixel perfect guarantee, but there are no dead, stuck, bright pixels. However, on the top left of the monitor there are 2 "lines" (they are quite wide, like a quarter of an inch) that are brighter than the rest of the display. However, this is really only noticeable in stock images in which the top left is a primarily solid colour. I do not notice it at all while gaming. Also,
> There is no black light bleed! I took paint, made an all black image and full-screened it, and I actually couldn't see any bleeding.
> Yes, the monitor and casing isn't the greatest, but I got lucky in that my screen isn't crooked and doesn't' really come away from the bezel. It will in some areas if I apply pressure, ]but that is very minor.
> I have never had a high Hz monitor or a PLS monitor, so I really don't notice the ghosting that much that people talk about while playing games.
> In regards to overclocking, at 96Hz it looks fantastic. At 110Hz I can see what sort of appears to be a faint flickering of the lines. At 120Hz I get red and green lines. Interestingly, I flashed a new bios for my graphics card to increase the core and memory clocks (Have a Gigabyte 7970OC, flashed the GHz bios because this is the only way to get a higher voltage on this card) and the flicker at 110Hz and 120Hz got WORSE. This is a little disappointing, but overall I still can't complain.
> 
> qnixqx2710.jpg 1188k .jpg file


Have you tried using the LCD reduced settings in CRU?

I had flickering lines at 120hz but was able to fix it using the LCD reduced profile.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> *Note to anyone going to use this monitor for gaming. The anti-gloss finish on the matte finish actually distorts picture quality, color, and brightness slightly. Only avoid glossy if you have a direct sunlit room or bright room with no light dimming features. Here is a antigloss film removed (pic by Vega). The film actually makes pic quality slightly fuzzy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Isn't that picture comparing apple to oranges? I would assume something of that caliber would distort images at a distance but that's not how it's being used. It's being used pressed directly against a flat surface displaying images. Putting that coating against a picture and comparing the two would be a much more relative example.

That said the picture on my matte anti-gloss qx2710 is at least 10 times noticeably better and sharper looking that my old VG278H.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> I hope this doesn't cause an increase in price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, has anyone come from a 5ms LCD to this? Did you notice any lag/blur?


As said above, I came from 120hz 2ms VG278H to the qnix qx2710 that is supposedly 6ms.

Honestly I notice no difference in response times or ghosting. Some claim they do and maybe that's true but I wouldn't even start to worry about going from 5ms to 6ms.


----------



## Derpinheimer

Considering selling a perfect shimian for this.. but this seems to have a lot of issues compared to the IPS ones.

Does it seem like all properly set-up monitors can reach at least 96Hz?

And this burn in thing - my Shimian does that when overclocked too. It corrects itself after 10-30 minutes, but it is far from minor. Does this go away over time [E.G. it stops burning in altogether?]


----------



## machinehead

matte or glossy


----------



## faiyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derpinheimer*
> 
> Does it seem like all properly set-up monitors can reach at least 96Hz?


Yes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derpinheimer*
> 
> And this burn in thing - my Shimian does that when overclocked too. It corrects itself after 10-30 minutes, but it is far from minor. Does this go away over time [E.G. it stops burning in altogether?]


Yes. I prefer to be at 96Hz at the desktop, but once my monoprice 24awg cable arrives, I'll be using 120Hz with specific games.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *machinehead*
> 
> matte or glossy


matte


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Awesome HP monitor stand (HP LV980AA)


Any place where we can buy some of those stands? The eBay listing you posted ended weeks ago


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Isn't that picture comparing apple to oranges? I would assume something of that caliber would distort images at a distance but that's not how it's being used. It's being used pressed directly against a flat surface displaying images. Putting that coating against a picture and comparing the two would be a much more relative example.


You are correct that the image quality distortion from the matte finish is much less dramatic when the coating is directly on it. But I have compared both finishes on the same monitor in person and the colors are slightly better and crisper on the glossy. This is if you are in a dark room don't have a light source compromising the glossy finish which the matte will win hands down.

Here is a pretty good vid comparison of matte vs glossy (different monitor though) He even positioned the camera to add a light source in the pic also.





Quote:


> That said the picture on my matte anti-gloss qx2710 is at least 10 times noticeably better and sharper looking that my old VG278H.
> As said above, I came from 120hz 2ms VG278H to the qnix qx2710 that is supposedly 6ms.
> 
> Honestly I notice no difference in response times or ghosting. Some claim they do and maybe that's true but I wouldn't even start to worry about going from 5ms to 6ms.


That's great to hear. You got me so excited I had to go buy one and see for myself.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Awesome HP monitor stand (HP LV980AA)
> 
> 
> 
> Any place where we can buy some of those stands? The eBay listing you posted ended weeks ago
Click to expand...

I don't know right now but my thoughts are that they have to be being sold somewhere. It shipped to me in a legit HP box specifically made for it, so they are sold by HP as spares on the regular. Possibly all it takes is a call to HP and ask if you can order by part number. Curious how much they would sell it for...

edit: found it on HP small business website. Unavailble to purchase online... what about over the phone?
http://shopping1.hp.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/WW-USSMBPublicStore-Site/en_US/-/USD/ViewProductDetail-Start;pgid=jDJwlVlq2W9SR0Yk2kO1Yuen00004KJgHj_g;sid=JyZz5sPR-1h35pI_lghTbxve9ShLlxOYNTk=?ProductUUID=xp8Q7EN5ER8AAAEvNFgg6jpX&CatalogCategoryID=&JumpTo=OfferList


----------



## Lexxon87

Any luck with the nausea/eye strain? I've been interested in trying out an IPS monitor again, but I last tried a glossy monitor from Micro Center, and the headaches/eye strain and nausea I got from it were way too bad to continue using it. I'm thinking it was some combination of sitting too close to the monitor, the glare from being glossy (looking to get a matte this time), and/or the PWM backlighting.


----------



## Derpinheimer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lexxon87*
> 
> Any luck with the nausea/eye strain? I've been interested in trying out an IPS monitor again, but I last tried a glossy monitor from Micro Center, and the headaches/eye strain and nausea I got from it were way too bad to continue using it. I'm thinking it was some combination of sitting too close to the monitor, the glare from being glossy (looking to get a matte this time), and/or the PWM backlighting.


Not sure if this is directed at one person, but..

This monitor is PLS

And, as someone who used nothing but crappy Matte TN monitors for.. forever, switching to a 27" Shimian Glossy&Glass had no adverse effects on me.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lexxon87*
> 
> Any luck with the nausea/eye strain? I've been interested in trying out an IPS monitor again, but I last tried a glossy monitor from Micro Center, and the headaches/eye strain and nausea I got from it were way too bad to continue using it. I'm thinking it was some combination of sitting too close to the monitor, the glare from being glossy (looking to get a matte this time), and/or the PWM backlighting.


Reflections could give you a headache. Also, bear in mind that IPS/PLS monitors ship far too bright, and this can cause eyestrain and headaches. If you try one you need to turn brightness down to ~35% (at least with the Korean PLS).

The monitors also use PWM backlights, so turning it down might cause headaches if you are particularly sensitive, though the vast majority of people who own one of these don't notice it even with the brightness turned down.


----------



## Blackroush

Just quick question guys before I buy X-STAR DP2710LED. I am using BENQ XL2420TX which is natively support 120HZ 2MS. Compare to 120HZ in this monitor do I get a same response or at least near the performance compare to my XL2420TX? Thanks appreciate that.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Yup sold it on ebay and mine cost $77 to send to Alaska. It would have probably been a lot less if it would have been in the continental us.


Its funny my monitor tracking number showed the monitor was in Alaska first stop after leaving Korea.
I would think it would not make a difference. A good amount of things I order from China seem to go to Alaska first before they come to me in California. And Korea should be the same.

South Korea to Alaska = 3,713 miles
South Korea to Los Angeles = 5,972 miles


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I have that too. I think everyone might. When we say that the stand/plastic bezel is cheap as fjkdsfjksa, we mean it!!
> 
> I would de-bezel the monitor (Read the expandable section in the OP titled "How to debezel and vesa-mount debezeled monitor") and paint the silver frame matte black if I could, but I am not at home where I have all that is needed.


Same gap here.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackroush*
> 
> Just quick question guys before I buy X-STAR DP2710LED. I am using BENQ XL2420TX which is natively support 120HZ 2MS. Compare to 120HZ in this monitor do I get a same response or at least near the performance compare to my XL2420TX? Thanks appreciate that.


Yes but you will get a slight motion blur compared to your native 120hz monitor(and i mean very slight you may not even see it). This is compensated by turning off any in game motion blur and letting the monitor do it. If you do this they are almost identical from what i can tell.


----------



## Blitos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDucktape*
> 
> Hi, a friend of mine asked me for a good quality, big (high res and size) and good looking monitor for about 250€, which is arround 330$. Would you recomend one for him?


Hi MrDucktape,

I just received this monitor last week. Coming from an Asus VG278H (a good looking 120Hz 1080p TN panel) I can wholeheartedly recommend this one. The resolution, the colors.... The plastic bezel and stand can seem a little cheap but still, it's a small trade-off IMHO.
In fact I just fired up my old monitor and it now seems horrible








BTW I'm in Galicia, the monitor was 240€ and another 80€ in customs (http://www.ebay.es/itm/140997037695?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649); ordered on sunday and it arrived thursday







.
Hope it helps


----------



## Blackroush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yes but you will get a slight motion blur compared to your native 120hz monitor(and i mean very slight you may not even see it). This is compensated by turning off any in game motion blur and letting the monitor do it. If you do this they are almost identical from what i can tell.


Thanks dude. I think I will order this monitor today. I know it is identical but which one is better X-Star or Qnix (and any seller preference)? thanks.


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> That said the picture on my matte anti-gloss qx2710 is at least 10 times noticeably better and sharper looking that my old VG278H.
> As said above, I came from 120hz 2ms VG278H to the qnix qx2710 that is supposedly 6ms.
> 
> Honestly I notice no difference in response times or ghosting. Some claim they do and maybe that's true but I wouldn't even start to worry about going from 5ms to 6ms.


Ooooh, I though these had 8ms response times.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Ooooh, I though these had 8ms response times.


According to the manufacturers, both XStar and Qnix have 8ms response times. I can't quote/remember the exact location of this info, but from what I remember it was the Qnix and XStar website that someone found.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackroush*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yes but you will get a slight motion blur compared to your native 120hz monitor(and i mean very slight you may not even see it). This is compensated by turning off any in game motion blur and letting the monitor do it. If you do this they are almost identical from what i can tell.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks dude. I think I will order this monitor today. I know it is identical but which one is better X-Star or Qnix (and any seller preference)? thanks.
Click to expand...

I chose qnix because i think it is a better name than x-star. Chose hulustar as a seller because at the time they had a 0-2 defective pixels (i.e. 'perfect pixel') promotion for the same price as the regular one. I think that dream-seller, green-sum, hulustar, and bigclothcraft are all fine ebay sellers.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Ooooh, I though these had 8ms response times.
> 
> 
> 
> According to the manufacturers, both XStar and Qnix have 8ms response times. I can't quote/remember the exact location of this info, but from what I remember it was the Qnix and XStar website that someone found.
Click to expand...

Input lag and response time are confusing and intertwining terms. The input lag is stated as 6ms, and tested as 6.3ms (source [click]).
This review is in the OP as well. Just translate from Russian to English.


----------



## MmmSacrilicious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefox2501*
> 
> Have you tried using the LCD reduced settings in CRU?
> 
> I had flickering lines at 120hz but was able to fix it using the LCD reduced profile.


Yeah, I tried that afterwards. It helped, definitely reduced the number of them but they are still present. Eventually I will get a new DVI cable, but I'm not sure if that would fix it.

Also, does anyone have any idea why flashing to the GHz BIOS would have made the issue worse? I figured it would have helped, given thatit increased the output of my GPU.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> According to the manufacturers, both XStar and Qnix have 8ms response times. I can't quote/remember the exact location of this info, but from what I remember it was the Qnix and XStar website that someone found.


They are 8ms but seriously look up some reviews on response times differences between 8ms, 6ms, 5ms, 2ms and you will find once you go below 10ms there is really not a determinable difference other than some very slight motion blur(which most games have built in like i said). Response time under 10ms has become more of a price point now.

Really if you have under 10ms response you have to start working the other specs to make a huge difference which is why this monitor rocks. With 8ms response you are good, with 120hz you are better, with no scaler you are golden. There is always room for improvement but motion speeds on this monitor are top of the line for now.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> They are 8ms but seriously look up some reviews on response times differences between 8ms, 6ms, 5ms, 2ms and you will find once you go below 10ms there is really not a determinable difference other than some very slight motion blur(which most games have built in like i said). Response time under 10ms has become more of a price point now.
> 
> Really if you have under 10ms response you have to start working the other specs to make a huge difference which is why this monitor rocks. With 8ms response you are good, with 120hz you are better, with no scaler you are golden. There is always room for improvement but motion speeds on this monitor are top of the line for now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Input lag and response time are confusing and intertwining terms. The input lag is stated as 6ms, and tested as 6.3ms (source [click]).
> This review is in the OP as well. Just translate from Russian to English.


This brings up another good point. Input lag under 6ms is usually as good as it gets in terms of what you can actually see. So this monitor is right on the edge of that parameter with 6.3. Really for you guys with AMD cards a slight bit of overdrive to get a bit better response would be interesting to play with. I have nvidia so i can't test that one out.


----------



## Spartan F8

So i am curious to know. Does anyone in here that has an AMD Gfx card want to do a nifty review with overdrive? I think it would be neat to see the resulting response, input lag, and negative effects it may have at overdriving pixels at an already overclocked panel. I wonder if it would give you massive good motion detection OR catch on fire


----------



## HexATL

Qnix vs Xstar - are they the same?
So glossy in a darker room is better?
Any recommended seller anyone?
I plan purchasing one of these on Thursday.


----------



## junkrok

Just got my QNIX PLS (glossy). from ipsledmonitors.com You all were not kidding about the bezel and base being cheap! I guess it adds character to the monitor ($600 panel in a $5 bezel). I was able to just pull the clear portion of the stand right out of the bezel. Next I want to find a better stand to mod like LucidDreamer's QNIX.

Other than that this thing is great! A little BLB and a bright pixel in the far left corner. I think it's a keeper.

I spent a lot of time lurking this thread, you guys all helped me out.Thanks! Those that are considering glossy, here is my best attempt at a picture. It is very reflective as you can see. If you have a lot of light coming from behind you I would consider a matte.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HexATL*
> 
> Qnix vs Xstar - are they the same?
> So glossy in a darker room is better?
> Any recommended seller anyone?
> I plan purchasing one of these on Thursday.


Search search search.

Yes
Yes
Read warranties and pixel policies. Combine squaretrade if you can for the price it is more than worth it.
Greensum
accessorieswhole
Bigclothcraft


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I don't know right now but my thoughts are that they have to be being sold somewhere. It shipped to me in a legit HP box specifically made for it, so they are sold by HP as spares on the regular. Possibly all it takes is a call to HP and ask if you can order by part number. Curious how much they would sell it for...
> 
> edit: found it on HP small business website. Unavailble to purchase online... what about over the phone?
> http://shopping1.hp.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/WW-USSMBPublicStore-Site/en_US/-/USD/ViewProductDetail-Start;pgid=jDJwlVlq2W9SR0Yk2kO1Yuen00004KJgHj_g;sid=JyZz5sPR-1h35pI_lghTbxve9ShLlxOYNTk=?ProductUUID=xp8Q7EN5ER8AAAEvNFgg6jpX&CatalogCategoryID=&JumpTo=OfferList


Would this other eBay auction
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/221247355291
be the correct stand? If so, I'm tempted to buy it asap, even if it is used.


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> So i am curious to know. Does anyone in here that has an AMD Gfx card want to do a nifty review with overdrive? I think it would be neat to see the resulting response, input lag, and negative effects it may have at overdriving pixels at an already overclocked panel. I wonder if it would give you massive good motion detection OR catch on fire


I tried this on my current TN monitor and noticed no difference, so I too am curious if there is a difference with the 2710.

Also in CCC the setting is under "My Digital Flat-Panels>LCD Overdrive (Digital Flat-Panel)", if someone can't find it.


----------



## ColdFlo

You guys know that with FedEX(which is harder you have to be slicker on the phone(Fedex can be a right ahole sometimes about refusing rejecting packages if you think you might have trouble(you will) just claim you just moved in and you saw this package made out to someone else(dont say its you) especially on a special order/item like a 300 dollar korean monitor) and UPS(I bet I can pull it off with DHL too) you can just cut open the bottom of the box and if you test your monitor quickly if you put the packaging back together right without damaging the shipping label(this is the most obvious and most important part of the operation) and without making it obvious you opened the package(plus you tell them on the phone you didnt open it). Get Creative. View it as a puzzle. If you have to cut something make it under a flap you can tuck it under use maximum strength ducktape(this is good for clothes shipped in bags) to tape a plastic bag back closed from the inside. Always cut a package from the bottom and get yourself some clear packing tape to reseal packages(sometimes even over seller proprietary tape the delivery man doesnt have time to check the bottom of every package nor does he care the only person you have to fib to is the person over the phone package carriers are making money hand over fist and they are getting greedy wanting us to pay for returns its not necessary).

Just reject or refuse the package it will go back to the shipper free of charge. If the seller doesnt want to give a refund contact paypal tell them you never received your item...... Just put everything back the way you found it. Pull staples out gently cut glued boxes down inbetween the cardboard and then reglue it before return(dont put off repackaging you dont want to miss the package carrier or be doing this at the last minute). Clothing boxes are getting more creative where all the taped seals are on the top where the package man can see them like Ralph Lauren but you can still unfold the sides of these boxes remember a box is just a cardboard sheet folded like a puzzle just use your mind and figure a way in; propreitary tape(sometimes this can be cleanly removed and cardboard surfaces repaired with a wet sponge and then covered with clear packing tape) and new box constructions have yet to stop me. You can take a few days to test your monitor just claim you were out of town and you just got back(oh a family member signed for the package). I save a fortune this way deal shopping and I never pay for returns.

Often people doctor the internet photo to make something look better(this is getting bad lately) or when you buy something on closeout the picture isnt the actual item its last years(that always looks better) Fedex DHL UPS are making more money than ever before so is ebay so is amazon this is a victimless crime(you really shouldnt feel bad about it and what about them now handing the package off the mail carrier to cheap skate(what a hassle this is this is the only way i lose packages and if you return something through mail carrier request the pickup online so you get a pickup confirmation you can use later to hang over their head if they lose it but watch you those mail people may look nice but its called POSTAL for a reasion they are the true package gangsters paid carriers might actually care but a POSTAL package gangster when pushed and cornerd will show you how much they dont give a crap and HOW MUCH YOUR PACKAGE MISSING DOESNT EVEN MATTER TO ANYONE BUT YOU BECAUSE THEY SURE DONT INCUR ANY REPERCUSSIONS). So... package carriers are getting cheap with last leg national post shipping when they are making money hand over fist(smart post, basic ground) making you wait longer with no tracking on the last leg just to offer shippers one dolllar off on shipping econo and their bottom lines are exploding. They owe you a return ship. Become a master of return







.

Yes wall of text. Cry. I fully explain things and this info could potentially save you hundreds of dollars(a year sometimes a sale is followed by a better sale just rebuy the same stuff then in the same box the new stuff came in put the same old order with old invoice and get higher amount refunded mastering the visualization of the free return flowchart has many possible benefits) and increase your standard of living via deal shopping and returning so dont hate appreciate the info.

P.S. You know how I figured this out a retail clothing phone help told me and I just took it to the nth degree each return at first was challenging but now its no big deal. You have to learn how to talk to Fedex. The first few times you talk to them dont give out your info and try to get them to return and check out the attitudes you get(UPS is far more relaxed about it)(just explain the situation and what you want without giving any identifying information..... use skype or some other voip service that cant be traced to a number with your name on it(this will help you in all interactions with businesses(never use a landline infact ditch your landline service and only use internet and save yourself some money.... get rid of that nsa spy line) as it is written into the law they(any avg business no im not talking about the government nsa conspiracy here johnny come noobly) can see your number even when you block callerid but you dont have that same right back to them its actually an fcc regulation I looked it up years ago but I dont remember the details). Then you'll understand what I mean and you will see they deserve and demand "creativity".

In the end UPS is preferable remember everytime you get a package always cut out the bottom get a sharp knife and do it carefully. Sometimes you have to cut or remove proprietary packing tapes just make sure its on the bottom so when the package man comes to pick it up its not obvious the package has been opened and your good. Most of the time they dont even look or care they just pick it up. The most important thing is the package must look unopened at a quick glance and it must have the same packing sticker. I have never had a problem, but i also do a quality job.


----------



## oicwutudidthar

tl;dr


----------



## Moragg

I wonder how long that took to write...


----------



## szeged

anyone care to paraphrase that book a few posts up?


----------



## machinehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vinnces*
> 
> I'm so tempted to get one now with the 10% Ebay coupon even though my Crossover isn't 3 month old yet. It would make it $252 shipped.


where do i get that coupon


----------



## MmmSacrilicious

quote
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone care to paraphrase that book a few posts up?


Tl;dr: Open your package in such a way that it isn't noticeable, plug in your monitor and test it, if you aren't satisfied package it all back up and tell the shipping company that you reject the package and it isn't yours and they will be forced to return it to the sender free of charge.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone care to paraphrase that book a few posts up?


Guy spends all his free time thinking of ways to Scam FedEx and some mom & pop Korean ebay sellers. This entails countless phone calls, time spent resealing packages, and falsifying claims against both the courier and seller. Other than that the guy seems like a real peach.

Meanwhile the rest of us spend our free time learning valuable skills, so that we now have a jobs that pay well enough to where it's not worth our time to scam someone over a $300 purchase. Actually I spent the extra $50 so that i could return it if I didn't like it.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Is there a video or something showing the lag difference between the QNIX/XSTARs and ASUS 144hz/BENQs?


----------



## ColdFlo

Yeah not accepting a return on a panel with horrible backlight bleed or 11 or more dead pixels makes those harmless koreans that got shot in the head in menace to society so innocent and I'm the horrible criminal and I'm defrauding the poor little FEDEX and their cheapskate smartpost because they dont want to carry packages to the door anymore(or how about those videos where they throw them at the door(anyone wonder why they have backlight bleed?)). LOL brainwashes are hilarious they cant even think. I'm not defrauding anyone if anyone some people getting really bad panels that are refused returns are the victims and if the koreans and paypall and fedex want to play hardball all I'm doing is giving that person expert game so they can play the hardball even harder. If a company online sells an item and it doesnt match the picture I shouldnt have to use included shipping labels that are taken out of my refund and I shouldnt have to pay return shipping either. With all the online shopping done these days even with my returns I'm making FEDEX and UPS and DHL tons of bank. I'm just going around their ******ed policies. Oh thats their policy they don't wanna listen to what I have to say. Fine I don't need them either because I'm the one with all the power. LOL. And no I dont spend my free time doing anything. I do allot of deal shopping and online sellers and shippers try to screw me over and I find a way out of it everytime. Now I'm experienced and its second nature and no big deal. Don't cry just because you walked into somebody dances through the little system of rules that made you such a _____ __ ___ ___.


----------



## MingoDynasty

^ tl;dr


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I don't know right now but my thoughts are that they have to be being sold somewhere. It shipped to me in a legit HP box specifically made for it, so they are sold by HP as spares on the regular. Possibly all it takes is a call to HP and ask if you can order by part number. Curious how much they would sell it for...
> 
> edit: found it on HP small business website. Unavailble to purchase online... what about over the phone?
> http://shopping1.hp.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/WW-USSMBPublicStore-Site/en_US/-/USD/ViewProductDetail-Start;pgid=jDJwlVlq2W9SR0Yk2kO1Yuen00004KJgHj_g;sid=JyZz5sPR-1h35pI_lghTbxve9ShLlxOYNTk=?ProductUUID=xp8Q7EN5ER8AAAEvNFgg6jpX&CatalogCategoryID=&JumpTo=OfferList
> 
> 
> 
> Would this other eBay auction
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/221247355291
> be the correct stand? If so, I'm tempted to buy it asap, even if it is used.
Click to expand...

Not the same stand. Possibly an older edition. Maybe still compatible


----------



## combatant3219

Is it just me or are these posts bringing down the quality of this whole thread? I think we need to keep on topic.

Meanwhile, my second GTX 780 and PSU should be with me tomorrow assuming it clears customs today. Fingers crossed.

Really looking forward to trying out my XStar which has been patiently sitting in it's box for the last week or two.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> Yeah not accepting a return on a panel with horrible backlight bleed or 11 or more dead pixels makes those harmless koreans that got shot in the head in menace to society so innocent and I'm the horrible criminal and I'm defrauding the poor little FEDEX and their cheapskate smartpost because they dont want to carry packages to the door anymore(or how about those videos where they throw them at the door(anyone wonder why they have backlight bleed?)). LOL brainwashes are hilarious they cant even think. I'm not defrauding anyone if anyone some people getting really bad panels that are refused returns are the victims and if the koreans and paypall and fedex want to play hardball all I'm doing is giving that person expert game so they can play the hardball even harder. If a company online sells an item and it doesnt match the picture I shouldnt have to use included shipping labels that are taken out of my refund and I shouldnt have to pay return shipping either. With all the online shopping done these days even with my returns I'm making FEDEX and UPS and DHL tons of bank. I'm just going around their ******ed policies. Oh thats their policy they don't wanna listen to what I have to say. Fine I don't need them either because I'm the one with all the power. LOL. And no I dont spend my free time doing anything. I do allot of deal shopping and online sellers and shippers try to screw me over and I find a way out of it everytime. Now I'm experienced and its second nature and no big deal. Don't cry just because you walked into somebody dances through the little system of rules that made you such a _____ __ ___ ___.


paragraph structure. learn it. love it.

so i attempted to get through this massive sea of jumbled words, and all i can really get from it is, youre trying to scam the shipping companies, calling everyone who does things legally brainwashed idiots, and then you go on to try to justify your attempt at stealing money from companies.

did i hit the nail on the head? am i in the right ballpark atleast.


----------



## ronquilent

Does the semi-gloss matte version of this monitor block considerably more reflections than the glossy screen?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Considerably.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> did i hit the nail on the head? am i in the right ballpark atleast.


That you did.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Does the semi-gloss matte version of this monitor block considerably more reflections than the glossy screen?


Lighted reflections yes. I make my PC room dark when gaming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Is there a video or something showing the lag difference between the QNIX/XSTARs and ASUS 144hz/BENQs?


Dont you have both as in your sig? Or did you buy and not receive yet.


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Is there a video or something showing the lag difference between the QNIX/XSTARs and ASUS 144hz/BENQs?


I'm curios to see the pixel response time lag too, with light boost and everything.

I'm torn between these Korean 2710's and the 144hz ASUS TN monitors.


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Lighted reflections yes. I make my PC room dark when gaming.


So it won't really help for sunlight @ 5500K ~ 6500K reflections? I have my center monitor perpendicular to my windows but the side monitor is at an angle so it reflects the sunlight when the light is the brightest so the glare makes the monitor quite useless unless I close the blinds.

Does the contrast/color saturation have any appreciable difference compared to the full-gloss version?

Thanks.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> So it won't really help for sunlight @ 5500K ~ 6500K reflections? I have my center monitor perpendicular to my windows but the side monitor is at an angle so it reflects the sunlight when the light is the brightest so the glare makes the monitor quite useless unless I close the blinds.
> 
> Does the contrast/color saturation have any appreciable difference compared to the full-gloss version?
> 
> Thanks.


Matte finish would help with most sunlight color temperatures. I have not seen a comparison of these monitors glossy vs matte. But i posted a comparison of a LED a few pages back. It shows pic quality difference and reflection properties.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/4630#post_20463268


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Just got my QNIX PLS (glossy). from ipsledmonitors.com You all were not kidding about the bezel and base being cheap! I guess it adds character to the monitor ($600 panel in a $5 bezel). I was able to just pull the clear portion of the stand right out of the bezel. Next I want to find a better stand to mod like LucidDreamer's QNIX.
> 
> Other than that this thing is great! A little BLB and a bright pixel in the far left corner. I think it's a keeper.
> 
> I spent a lot of time lurking this thread, you guys all helped me out.Thanks! Those that are considering glossy, here is my best attempt at a picture. It is very reflective as you can see. If you have a lot of light coming from behind you I would consider a matte.


Verified, thanks! Welcome to the club. another satisfied risk-taker


----------



## litster

I have a question about the pricing of these monitors. All these ebay sellers have the same monitor for different prices. It is not just "perfect pixel" or matte vs. glossy. From reading the title and the description, two different listings appear to be the same monitor except one is more expensive than the other. Are the actually the same monitor with different prices or are there tangible differences?

$389.90 perfect pixel, glossy
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/140963404028

$347.90 perfect pixel, glossy
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-WQHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/140963404007

Another question is, since this LCD is overclockable, is there any reason to buy the Yamakasi q270 2b overclock model, which is at $600?

Thanks for your help.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *litster*
> 
> I have a question about the pricing of these monitors. All these ebay sellers have the same monitor for different prices. It is not just "perfect pixel" or matte vs. glossy. From reading the title and the description, two different listings appear to be the same monitor except one is more expensive than the other. Are the actually the same monitor with different prices or are there tangible differences?
> 
> $389.90 perfect pixel, glossy
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/140963404028
> 
> $347.90 perfect pixel, glossy
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-WQHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/140963404007
> 
> Another question is, since this LCD is overclockable, is there any reason to buy the Yamakasi q270 2b overclock model, which is at $600?
> 
> Thanks for your help.


Looks the same to me. Yes the QNIX QX2710 is overclockable and there should be no difference between the QNIX QX2710 and the Yamakasi Q270 2B model in terms of their overclockability.

The QNIX QX2710 is a Samsung PLS panel which is arguably superior to IPS panels like those used in the Yamakasi and Apple Cinema displays.


----------



## ColdFlo

So these panels run on 12v. You could always run these off a psu maybe if it has a voltage boost to counteract droop like a seasonic or a turbocool maybe it might help stabilize the overclock?


----------



## combatant3219

Well I just unboxed my Xstar to test it out on my newly built rig (partially there, still need to sort out cables and install second graphics card etc)

Just installing windows and drivers at the moment.

First impressions are that build quality is pretty good. The stand actually isn't bad at all. Thought I had a couple of dead pixels but turned out to be some Korean dust. Lol

So no dead pixels that I can tell but I haven't been looking hard.

I do have some backlight bleed that I noticed on the windows loading screen but nothing I would deem excessive and became much less noticeable when I turned the brightness down a bit.

So it's early days and lots more testing to do but so far I'm in love! Haha. Wife even said to me it looks great why dont I buy 2 more. Lol.

I bought mine from bigclothcraft whose communication was excellent and they answered all my questions before I ordered. I'd highly recommend them.


----------



## machinehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Well I just unboxed my Xstar to test it out on my newly built rig (partially there, still need to sort out cables and install second graphics card etc)
> 
> Just installing windows and drivers at the moment.
> 
> First impressions are that build quality is pretty good. The stand actually isn't bad at all. Thought I had a couple of dead pixels but turned out to be some Korean dust. Lol
> 
> So no dead pixels that I can tell but I haven't been looking hard.
> 
> I do have some backlight bleed that I noticed on the windows loading screen but nothing I would deem excessive and became much less noticeable when I turned the brightness down a bit.
> 
> So it's early days and lots more testing to do but so far I'm in love! Haha. Wife even said to me it looks great why dont I buy 2 more. Lol.
> 
> I bought mine from bigclothcraft whose communication was excellent and they answered all my questions before I ordered. I'd highly recommend them.


did you order matte or glossy


----------



## combatant3219

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *machinehead*
> 
> did you order matte or glossy


I ordered matte.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Search search search.
> 
> Yes No (Question was - Are the qnix and x-star the same?)
> Yes
> Read warranties and pixel policies. Combine squaretrade if you can for the price it is more than worth it.
> Greensum
> accessorieswhole
> Bigclothcraft


Fixed that for you

The qnix uses the LG panel while the x-star uses the Samsung panel. Everything else about them is the same.

Also again the qx2710 is the only one I have seen to advertise a 6ms response time.


----------



## kevinsbane

They both use a PLS panel by Samsung... LG doesn't make PLS panels afaik.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> They both use a PLS panel by Samsung... LG doesn't make PLS panels afaik.







At least the panel part. I believe the PLS statement is correct though. It is Samsung's technology.

That brings up a good point that I haven't really thought about. I believe the general assumption in this thread is that the Qnix is a PLS panel when in fact it is *NOT*.


----------



## Hukkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackroush*
> 
> Just quick question guys before I buy X-STAR DP2710LED. I am using BENQ XL2420TX which is natively support 120HZ 2MS. Compare to 120HZ in this monitor do I get a same response or at least near the performance compare to my XL2420TX? Thanks appreciate that.


Wait are these X-STAR DP2710LED monitors 120 Hz? or after overclocking them you mean?


----------



## combatant3219

According to my seller "bigclothcraft" both are Samsung pls panels with 8ms response time.

The Qnix and Xstar are basically identical just with different branding. Pretty sure this has also been confirmed by others.


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Fixed that for you
> 
> The qnix uses the LG panel while the x-star uses the Samsung panel. Everything else about them is the same.
> 
> Also again the qx2710 is the only one I have seen to advertise a 6ms response time.


no, my 3 qnix's are definitely samsung panels.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> no, my 3 qnix's are definitely samsung panels.


Again, I posted proof from a very reputable source.

If you believe you are truly right lets see the reputable counter-proof.


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Again, I posted proof from a very reputable source.
> 
> If you believe you are truly right lets see the reputable counter-proof.


here are my panels, I personally debezelled and mounted... all samsung.

I'm at work right now, otherwise I would take a nice closeup shot as better proof.

Its pretty common knowledge that the qnix and xstar use the same panels, samsung PLS (It's not even really up for debate, am we being trolled or something?).


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> here are my panels, I personally debezelled and mounted... all samsung.
> 
> I'm at work right now, otherwise I would take a nice closeup shot as better proof.
> 
> Its pretty common knowledge that the qnix and xstar use the same panels, samsung PLS (It's not even really up for debate, am I being trolled or something?).


Hmmm. Well I guess they fluctuate based on what is available at the time then?

No trolling here. Unless the tek really messed up their facts they usually know the dillio. They are some of the most reputable "tech" youtubers.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> here are my panels, I personally debezelled and mounted... all samsung.
> 
> I'm at work right now, otherwise I would take a nice closeup shot as better proof.
> 
> Its pretty common knowledge that the qnix and xstar use the same panels, samsung PLS (It's not even really up for debate, am I being trolled or something?).


yup. it should be pretty common knowledge for anyone who reads most of posts in this thread and the other PLS thread. all qnix and xstar use samsung PLS panels. your source is not up to date on the details and craze with these PLS panels Outlawed. even my qnix showed a samsung PLS sticker when i was fixing the BLB.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> yup. it should be pretty common knowledge for anyone who reads most of posts in this thread and the other PLS thread. all qnix and xstar use samsung PLS panels. your source is not up to date on the details and craze with these PLS panels Outlawed. even my qnix showed a samsung PLS sticker when i was fixing the BLB.


I have been in this thread for a few weeks now. In that time I have purchased, received, and used my qnix for a while now. I realize what the buzz and assumption is here. That's why I was brining it up.

It seems that the tek's facts were indeed incorrect though so I apologize for that. It's very seldom for them to be so wrong on a subject of that matter (this video was literally released days ago).


----------



## exzacklyright

So it seems some people are having luck with the 'pixel perfect'.

http://i.imgur.com/Ob4XSNq.jpg

http://www.imgur.com/2tL4rTb.jpeg


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/1is08s/so_i_ordered_six_qnix_qx2710_27_1440p_monitors/


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Unless the tek really messed up their facts they usually know the dillio. They are some of the most reputable "tech" youtubers.


lol


----------



## true86no

2013-07-25 00.02.43.jpg 849k .jpg file


Hi, am new here, duh. Got the Qnix last week. Ordered Perfect Pixel from green-sum on Tuesday, got it on Friday in South East Asia. Tax free.

Monitor was perfect imo. Barely any noticeable BLB. Had issue with nvidia beta drivers not detecting it but it was easily solved (go back to Whql drivers). OCed to 96hz out of the box with sRGB colour profiles. It's fantastic. Only tried 120hz today but it didn't take. Nvidia control panel attempted it but said No.

Don't really care. 96hz is fine. I wouldn't even have OC if it were not so suggested/recommended here. Running off a 580GTX.

As for the Perfect Pixel dilemma, it was only $20 difference from Non-PP. It was a non-issue. $20 for peace of mind. The savings was significant compared to the Dell 27" I was eyeing/drooling after.

Had a used Dell 24" monitor stand lying around. Installed it with a bit of modification. Followed the instructions on the first post for dismantling the Qnix. It went fine. Now, I have tilt, swivel and height adjustment.

First Korean monitor purchase. Overall, I am very satisfied.


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So it seems some people are having luck with the 'pixel perfect'.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/Ob4XSNq.jpg
> 
> http://www.imgur.com/2tL4rTb.jpeg
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/1is08s/so_i_ordered_six_qnix_qx2710_27_1440p_monitors/


wow, 6.. nice.. I have 3 and find it to be alot of screen space, not sure what to do with it all sometimes.

he should consider debezelling in the future


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> I have been in this thread for a few weeks now. In that time I have purchased, received, and used my qnix for a while now. I realize what the buzz and assumption is here. That's why I was brining it up.
> 
> It seems that the tek's facts were indeed incorrect though so I apologize for that. It's very seldom for them to be so wrong on a subject of that matter (this video was literally released days ago).


I was AFK for a while and just got back. Glad this got sorted up quick. Mis-information is not good.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So it seems some people are having luck with the 'pixel perfect'.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/Ob4XSNq.jpg
> 
> http://www.imgur.com/2tL4rTb.jpeg
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/1is08s/so_i_ordered_six_qnix_qx2710_27_1440p_monitors/%5B/URL
> 
> lol


lmao


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least the panel part. I believe the PLS statement is correct though. It is Samsung's technology.
> 
> That brings up a good point that I haven't really thought about. I believe the general assumption in this thread is that the Qnix is a PLS panel when in fact it is *NOT*.


He did a review on a older Qnix which was a LG IPS panel which is what you are thinking of.. He has never done a review on the Qnix 2710 though.

Edit. I just looked it up and they did a review on a Qnix 2700 which is a LG IPS panel.. But the 2710 is a PLS panel..


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Edit. I just looked it up and they did a review on a Qnix 2700 which is a LG IPS panel.. But the 2710 is a PLS panel..


You know I was kind of thinking that was the case in hindsight because the differences in response times between the qx2700 and the qx2710.

Good to know that I wasn't completely wrong. I knew there was some truth to it some where.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So it seems some people are having luck with the 'pixel perfect'.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/Ob4XSNq.jpg
> 
> http://www.imgur.com/2tL4rTb.jpeg
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/1is08s/so_i_ordered_six_qnix_qx2710_27_1440p_monitors/%5B/URL


----------



## Spartan F8

FYI

""""""""""""""""""""""
Originally Posted by coelacanth View Post

I just bought a perfect pixel QNIX QX2710 from green-sum ($309.90). Hoping for minimal or no bleed and a 120Hz refresh rate.

I did a little data mining from The Korean PLS Monitor Club (as of yesterday) before I bought, here are the results:

There are 131 QNIX owners who reported a refresh rate. Of those 131 there were 73 that reported a refresh rate of 120Hz or better (55.7%)
There are 27 X-Star owners who reported a refresh rate. Of those 27 there were 14 that reported a refresh rate of 120Hz or better (51.9%)

40 people bought their QNIX monitors from green-sum. Of those 40, 35 reported a refresh rate, and of those 35, 18 reported a refresh rate of 120Hz or better (51.4%)
43 people bought their QNIX monitors from dream-seller. Of those 43, 33 reported a refresh rate, and of those 33, 23 reported a refresh rate of 120Hz or better (69.7%)

I went with green-sum because of the slightly higher seller rating and because the return policy seems better than dream-seller's. In particular, this turned me off to buying from dream-seller:
"Please note that we cannot accept returned goods whose retail box has been opened. In such circumstances, we will notify you that no refund will be available and you will be responsible for arranging for such goods to be returned to you within 30 days of our notification."
""""""""""""""""""""""


----------



## ronquilent

What is a good stand for a triple monitor setup with these? 1 single stand or 3 individual ones?


----------



## billy5000

Hey guys. This thread actually motivated me to create an account here, so hello!

Anyway, I finally decided to get one of these korean monitors, but I have a concern that my old *GPU* may not be enough for these monitors. I believe it can support dual link DVI since it can support resolutions up to 1600p (I'm hoping someone can double check just in case, though--also, if it's the correct DVI). Will this GPU be enough for browsing the web and watching some movies on these monitors? I don't plan to use this computer for gaming as you can already tell by its GPU.


----------



## litster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So it seems some people are having luck with the 'pixel perfect'.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/Ob4XSNq.jpg
> 
> http://www.imgur.com/2tL4rTb.jpeg
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/1is08s/so_i_ordered_six_qnix_qx2710_27_1440p_monitors/


Thanks to your write up on reddit, I ordered a pixel perfect 2710 from green sum after I read your reddit post.

One question I have. In the FAQ section in the OP of this thread, it says:
Quote:


> Q: Will I be able to notice the response time and/or input lag (especially in gaming)?
> A: Many users, myself included, have noticed motion blur during FPS gaming (such as planetside 2). It would be even more noticeable in 'twitch' gaming. It is fine for regular use (Leauge of Legends, Guildwars 2, etc.), but gaming professionals should look elsewhere.


This monitor has a 8ms refresh rate, and is overclockable to as high as 120Hz. At 8ms refresh rate, that is 125 frames a second (1000ms / 8ms = 125 frames/s). Why would it still have motion blur? Is it because 8ms isn't really 8ms? Something I am missing?


----------



## MingoDynasty

This probably doesn't answer your question, but:

Display refresh rate is measured in Hertz, i.e. 60 Hz or 120 Hz.

The 8ms you are referring to is response time.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *litster*
> 
> Thanks to your write up on reddit, I ordered a pixel perfect 2710 from green sum after I read your reddit post.
> 
> One question I have. In the FAQ section in the OP of this thread, it says:
> This monitor has a 8ms refresh rate, and is overclockable to as high as 120Hz. At 8ms refresh rate, that is 125 frames a second (1000ms / 8ms = 125 frames/s). Why would it still have motion blur? Is it because 8ms isn't really 8ms? Something I am missing?


Motion blur is an artifact of liquid crystals taking a finite amount of time to "switch" to show a different colour. So long as a pixel takes a finite amount of time to change, and so long as the pixel remains lit throughout the transition time, monitors will have motion blur. As a pixel transitions from, say, red to blue, it goes through several different colours over the period of up to 8 ms - these colours show up for up to 8ms and result in blurry motion.

LightBoost monitors overcome this by not having the pixels constantly lit, and rely on a synced light pulse which light the pixel only when it has completely transitioned - thus, no motion blur.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Verification picture:


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Motion blur is an artifact of liquid crystals taking a finite amount of time to "switch" to show a different colour. So long as a pixel takes a finite amount of time to change, and so long as the pixel remains lit throughout the transition time, monitors will have motion blur. As a pixel transitions from, say, red to blue, it goes through several different colours over the period of up to 8 ms - these colours show up for up to 8ms and result in blurry motion.
> 
> LightBoost monitors overcome this by not having the pixels constantly lit, and rely on a synced light pulse which light the pixel only when it has completely transitioned - thus, no motion blur.


This is another reason i thought it would be neat to see someone play around with AMD overdrive as it is another form of compensation for this color change delay. Good description couldn't have said it better.


----------



## Spartan F8

Hey guys if you all want to see something outright mesmerizing try winamps milkdrop. Just tried it today on this monitor and it is pretty awesome to see @ 120hz.


----------



## rony07

I received my Qnix QX2710 Evolution II on 22 July 2013, and after a couple days of playing with the monitor, here is my experience. I purchased my monitor on Amazon from a seller called MNW Global for $312 shipped. I ordered midday on Thursday, 18 July and it was at my door in Surprise, Arizona on 22 July at 5:45PM. As far as I know, I haven't heard of anyone in this thread purchasing this monitor from Amazon and I chose this seller because they only had good reviews from the few that purchased from them. They emailed me to ask for my phone number because it was required for shipping, and as soon as I emailed them back, the monitor was ready for shipping just a few short hours after ordering.

Unboxing Pictures:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
















Pictures of the screen quality:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












As you can see, I got received a pixel perfect monitor with some backlight bleed at the bottom of the screen, which honestly looks worse in the pictures than it actually is, but it is there.

Overclocking:

I'm running this monitor with 2 MSI GTX 660ti Power Edition OC in SLI on stock clocks. Without installing anything except the latest WHQL driver which is 320.49, I was able to overclock this monitor to 96Hz without any problems. Anything higher, and the monitor would crash. After placing Windows 8 into test mode and installing the pixel clock patch, I was able to get to 120Hz, but had artifacts when playing World of Warcraft. I'm pretty sure I can easily get to 120Hz if I really tried, but the display is gorgeous even at 96Hz, so I'm not really compelled to try. Haven't tried any refresh rates in between.

Impressions:

Purchasing this monitor from MNW Global through Amazon was a great experience. Only took a couple days to get from South Korea to my door, and it would have arrived sooner had I not ordered right before the weekend. Be advised, the stand and bezel are extremely cheap, and tilts ever so slightly. However, the display is gorgeous and I can instantly see the difference from going from my old primary monitor which was a 27" Asus VS278Q-P 1080p 60Hz, to this 27" 1440p 96Hz. I also purchase the Squaretrade warranty through Amazon which covers electronics up to $399 for $46. If you have any questions about my experience, please feel free to ask or message me and I'll get back to you as quickly as I can. Please forgive me if any of this sounds weird as I am a little tipsy as I type this. I also wanted to add that I tried to install the latest 326.19 Beta drivers from NVidia, but the monitor would not run. Thanks!

EDIT: Fixed arrival date.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShakDiesel*
> 
> I'm slowly getting cancer after reading the last few pages of this thread...


We did get side tracked a bit by a mis-reading of a model number is really what is comes down too. In the end we found the error and corrected it. The user in error even acknowledged it so others would not get mis-lead. Overall i think we got back on track pretty quick compared to many other threads i have seen.


----------



## Spartan F8

On a side note i am thinking of running this monitors power connector through a converter and powering it via molex off the computers PSU to get a bit more stable power and lower the operating cost(per wattage).

Any thoughts?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> They both use a PLS panel by Samsung... LG doesn't make PLS panels afaik.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least the panel part. I believe the PLS statement is correct though. It is Samsung's technology.
> 
> That brings up a good point that I haven't really thought about. I believe the general assumption in this thread is that the Qnix is a PLS panel when in fact it is *NOT*.
Click to expand...

First off, that video has some errors (as noted in the link to it in the OP, under "reviews"). The only good parts I see in that video, are the notoriety and positive recommendation.

They are PLS panels. Go to the OP, look at any of the videos where they take the monitor apart., or look at the expandable section "How to solve Panel Play and an off-center/cut-off screen" and look for my personal post there with accompanying picture of the samsung label and serial number on my panel.

edit: didn't read the 6 posts clarifying this issue until after I posted this. Capt. Overkill reporting for duty


----------



## scyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> On a side note i am thinking of running this monitors power connector through a converter and powering it via molex off the computers PSU to get a bit more stable power and lower the operating cost(per wattage).
> 
> Any thoughts?


I would be interested in results.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> On a side note i am thinking of running this monitors power connector through a converter and powering it via molex off the computers PSU to get a bit more stable power and lower the operating cost(per wattage).
> 
> Any thoughts?


That would be interesting. Obviously for starters you would need a PSU that is overpowered for a given system. I can just imagine the already tangled wire mess of a computer case with the addition of this


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> That would be interesting. Obviously for starters you would need a PSU that is overpowered for a given system. I can just imagine the already tangled wire mess of a computer case with the addition of this


I have this guy

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182188&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Power+Supplies-_-N82E16817182188&gclid=COHr-9SyybgCFctAMgod_WcAVA

I think it should be plenty to add a screen given the AMP load on each rail and the standard power capacity of a molex connector.


----------



## szeged

or a seperate psu just for the monitor


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> or a seperate psu just for the monitor


This is a possibility that would definitely work however the monitor does not require near that much power to operate on a 12v current so even a 250watt power supply would be quite a bit of overkill. Plus my objective is to create a more efficient setup and a bit of clutter reduction.


----------



## Spartan F8

Really this just builds on a project i have been working on recently to convert my entire house lighting to 12v LEDs to save a massive amount on my electric bill. I went from close to 300 dollars a month to 38 dollars a month(average over 6months since conversion). This just seems like another logical step in that direction.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> On a side note i am thinking of running this monitors power connector through a converter and powering it via molex off the computers PSU to get a bit more stable power and lower the operating cost(per wattage).
> 
> Any thoughts?


Sorry for being noob, but why would running your monitor through a computer PSU lower the operating cost?


----------



## ForceD

I have been thinking the same thing, i have 3 monitors and having 3 seperate bricks bothers me.

I just need to find out a compatible power plugs for the monitors, and wiring the rest should be easy enough.

Its just simple 12v. I will either use molex from my pc, or a modded xbox 360 power supply.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> Sorry for being noob, but why would running your monitor through a computer PSU lower the operating cost?


The same reason just screwing in an LED cluster into a house E27 outlet is not as good as running a new 12v wiring and controller setup. It is about a efficient circuit all the way through.


----------



## junkrok

Does anyone know if the stock AC adapter is that inefficient? Seems like it would be worthwhile to measure the difference.


----------



## apav

Kind of a random question, but the monitor shipped with Fedex, and I live in New York. If the package arrived in Memphis, TN an hour ago, is the monitor coming today (the 25th) or tomorrow? Just need to know in case I have to ask someone to sign for the monitor since I'm working.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Kind of a random question, but the monitor shipped with Fedex, and I live in New York. If the package arrived in Memphis, TN an hour ago, is the monitor coming today (the 25th) or tomorrow? Just need to know in case I have to ask someone to sign for the monitor since I'm working.


Call 800-988-1888 and ask them they are open 24hrs..


----------



## ronquilent

Anyone consider this http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/ as a better alternative to buying on ebay? Are these the actual companies selling the monitors or is it just some random guy that made a website and re-sells them?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Really this just builds on a project i have been working on recently to convert my entire house lighting to 12v LEDs to save a massive amount on my electric bill. I went from close to 300 dollars a month to 38 dollars a month(average over 6months since conversion). This just seems like another logical step in that direction.


Wow congrats, that is a huge savings. It will probably take time to offset the price of the led bulbs, but certainly better for the environment


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Anyone consider this http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/ as a better alternative to buying on ebay? Are these the actual companies selling the monitors or is it just some random guy that made a website and re-sells them?


Have you checked the english on that site?They are in Korea also..Here is warranty info..

Warranty about Monitor

Price is important But Service is also important.

What is important is checking warranty.
Because, almost shipment is from oversea.
So, Many buyer have problem to fix monitor.

We have been selling over 3,000pcs of monitors.
and have know-how to solve problem.

We offer Best Warranty about monitor to buyer Except problem by
customer, we have responsibility to fix problem.
In case of problem by customer, repair charge is own of buyer.

1. D.O.A (Dead on Arrival)
We will check compatibility about computer and parts and request some step.
If problem is in monitor, we will exchange monitor immediately.

2. Problem about monitor till 60days from purchase.
We also request some step about monitor.
In worst case, we will exchange faulty monitor.

3. Problem about monitor till 1 Year from 60days
We also request some step about monitor.
We will repair monitor.


----------



## ronquilent

lol, I missed that part. ebay it is.

Also, I'm a bit torn between getting the matte or glossy panel. Do you have the matte version and if so would you say that the clarity of text is the same as with the glossy panel? I'm sitting next to a window and I just want enough AG to where I don't see the reflections yet the text remains nearly as clear as my glossy shimian that I have atm. I already know about the reduction in black depth but I'm worried about the clarity of text being compromised with the matte.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Wow congrats, that is a huge savings. It will probably take time to offset the price of the led bulbs, but certainly better for the environment


I actually added that up and per savings a month it will take about 2 years. Still not too bad.


----------



## Swolern

Anyone that has got these monitors shipped to USA.

Does customs charge every monitor that gets imported or do some slip through?
How much do they charge for import? And if so do they notify you by email?
Thanks.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Anyone consider this http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/ as a better alternative to buying on ebay? Are these the actual companies selling the monitors or is it just some random guy that made a website and re-sells them?


Maybe not that company you linked, but http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ is a reseller based in California. Significantly better return policy too.


----------



## adriangb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Anyone that has got these monitors shipped to USA.
> 
> Does customs charge every monitor that gets imported or do some slip through?
> How much do they charge for import? And if so do they notify you by email?
> Thanks.


I got it shipped to the US -no charge from customs.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Anyone that has got these monitors shipped to USA.
> 
> Does customs charge every monitor that gets imported or do some slip through?
> How much do they charge for import? And if so do they notify you by email?
> Thanks.


As the person above me says there is no charge.

I did read somewhere in this thread that a carrier driver(fedex maybe?) was trying to charge a US recipient an extra ~$100 for "customs fees" before they would deliver it. The person proceeded to call the carrier and figured out that was not the case. Either it was a honest mistake or the driver was trying to make some extra dough. So under no circumstances should you be charged anything here in the US, at least judging by the 474 pages here so far.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> As the person above me says there is no charge.
> 
> I did read somewhere in this thread that a carrier driver(fedex maybe?) was trying to charge a US recipient an extra ~$100 for "customs fees" before they would deliver it. The person proceeded to call the carrier and figured out that was not the case. Either it was a honest mistake or the driver was trying to make some extra dough. So under no circumstances should you be charged anything here in the US, at least judging by the 474 pages here so far.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adriangb*
> 
> I got it shipped to the US -no charge from customs.


Awesome. Thanks for the replies guys.
+Rep


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Anyone consider this http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/ as a better alternative to buying on ebay? Are these the actual companies selling the monitors or is it just some random guy that made a website and re-sells them?


This is Bigclothcraft's website. They are a reputable seller on ebay, but I still chose ebay for it's protection.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> lol, I missed that part. ebay it is.
> 
> Also, I'm a bit torn between getting the matte or glossy panel. Do you have the matte version and if so would you say that the clarity of text is the same as with the glossy panel? I'm sitting next to a window and I just want enough AG to where I don't see the reflections yet the text remains nearly as clear as my glossy shimian that I have atm. I already know about the reduction in black depth but I'm worried about the clarity of text being compromised with the matte.


The matte coating is very light, my panel has a native contrast ratio of 1200:1 so don't worry. And since you're next to a window (like me) a matte coating is a must. Text is still very sharp, this AG coating fits what you asked for to the letter.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> Maybe not that company you linked, but http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ is a reseller based in California. Significantly better return policy too.


I second this. Had a great experience with them.


----------



## litster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Motion blur is an artifact of liquid crystals taking a finite amount of time to "switch" to show a different colour. So long as a pixel takes a finite amount of time to change, and so long as the pixel remains lit throughout the transition time, monitors will have motion blur. As a pixel transitions from, say, red to blue, it goes through several different colours over the period of up to 8 ms - these colours show up for up to 8ms and result in blurry motion.
> 
> LightBoost monitors overcome this by not having the pixels constantly lit, and rely on a synced light pulse which light the pixel only when it has completely transitioned - thus, no motion blur.


kevinsbane, thanks for the explanation. I read the OP on the lightboost thread and it all makes sense now. I have been using LCD monitors for over 14 years. I have not been subjected to motion blur. I hope the Qnix will not change that .


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *litster*
> 
> kevinsbane, thanks for the explanation. I read the OP on the lightboost thread and it all makes sense now. I have been using LCD monitors for over 14 years. I have not been subjected to motion blur. I hope the Qnix will not change that .


You are looking to much into this motion blur statement. If you have been using LCDs for years you have already seen it and have gotten used to it. On a standard LCD monitor at 60hz with a scaler the motion blur i double or even triple as bad as the Qnix. You will likely not even notice it is there even at 60hz.


----------



## sniggleface

I just got a QNIX QX2710 today, ordered via Amazon (sold by MiseMet). It only took a day to ship all the way from South Korea to NYC, even stopping in Cincinnati.

I was lucky enough to get zero dead pixels and seemingly low BLB, but I haven't fully tested the latter yet. I didn't order a pixel perfect monitor either, so I think I just got lucky. I was not able to get it up to 120hz, after a few seconds both connected displays spaz out (the secondary is just a garbage 1080p Acer). I'm running at 110hz currently, though the secondary display shows some vertical lines on it. Oddly the QNIX is showing none.

Coming from a Samsung S27A950, I'm definitely noticing more ghosting but the colors are much better. It's an interesting tradeoff. I'm not sure which I actually prefer, but I'm certainly leaning towards the QNIX since it also has the resolution going for it.

I originally had the 326.19 nVidia drivers installed but those do not work with this monitor at all. You must use 326.01 or previous drivers. I went back to 320.49 WHQL, used ToastyX's patcher, and created the resolution in the nVidia control panel. ToastyX's CRU didn't seem to work for me, but perhaps I was using it wrong. I'll probably inch up towards 120hz a little at a time, but I'm currently satisfied with 110hz.

Highly recommended purchase!


----------



## viwe649

Hi Guys,
My X-star came in today! Boy am i so glad! It looks incredible! Money well spent!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> My X-star came in today! Boy am i so glad! It looks incredible! Money well spent!


how different is the pixel density vs that 32" samsung 1080p tv that you were coming from? (based on your sig)

p.s. remember to post a verification picture of your monitor (as stated in the members list application)


----------



## viwe649

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> how different is the pixel density vs that 32" samsung 1080p tv that you were coming from? (based on your sig)
> 
> p.s. remember to post a verification picture of your monitor (as stated in the members list application)


Night and day







...or maybe something more dramatic! Yeah sure will once i get everything sorted out!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> how different is the pixel density vs that 32" samsung 1080p tv that you were coming from? (based on your sig)
> 
> p.s. remember to post a verification picture of your monitor (as stated in the members list application)


Check yourself for the difference on a PPI calculator.

http://members.ping.de/~sven/dpi.html


----------



## wntrsnowg

Oh thats neat. I meant more of from a real-life perception though. Obviously, the density on a 27" 1440P monitor is way higher compared to a 32" 1080P screen.


----------



## viwe649

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Oh thats neat. I meant more of from a real-life perception though. Obviously, the density on a 27" 1440P monitor is way higher compared to a 32" 1080P screen.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Check yourself for the difference on a PPI calculator.
> 
> http://members.ping.de/~sven/dpi.html


Dude! from 69ppi to 109ppi...Wow...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> Dude! from 69ppi to 109ppi...Wow...


Yeah no joke to the eye this is likely close to double the sharpness and clarity.


----------



## rony07

I have run into another sort-of issue since I have purchased this monitor. Prior to using this monitor, I have never heard the fan come on from my power supply. My power supply is running two MSI GTX 660ti in SLI with a 3770K at 4.2GHz, and my monitor is overclocked to 96Hz. My power supply is a Cooler Master Silent Pro M 850W, and I don't see why changing my monitor would make it work any harder. I'm only at the desktop, and I keep hearing the fan in the power supply coming on and off, and sometimes it just stays on like it's working hard. Has anyone else ran into this? Would this be a reason to RMA the power supply? It doesn't affect how the computer runs (yet), but it is definitely annoyingly loud. Thanks in advance.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rony07*
> 
> I have run into another sort-of issue since I have purchased this monitor. Prior to using this monitor, I have never heard the fan come on from my power supply. My power supply is running two MSI GTX 660ti in SLI with a 3770K at 4.2GHz, and my monitor is overclocked to 96Hz. My power supply is a Cooler Master Silent Pro M 850W, and I don't see why changing my monitor would make it work any harder. I'm only at the desktop, and I keep hearing the fan in the power supply coming on and off, and sometimes it just stays on like it's working hard. Has anyone else ran into this? Would this be a reason to RMA the power supply? It doesn't affect how the computer runs (yet), but it is definitely annoyingly loud. Thanks in advance.


It probably has to do with your top GPU no longer going into a low idle and using more energy to run at 96hz at 1440p..


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> The matte coating is very light, my panel has a native contrast ratio of 1200:1 so don't worry. And since you're next to a window (like me) a matte coating is a must. Text is still very sharp, this AG coating fits what you asked for to the letter.


Awesome, I think I'll pull the trigger on a matte Qnix then.

As an aside, what's the actual difference between the X-Star and Qnix? X-Stars are more expensive than Qnixes with green-sum but they're cheaper with dream-seller. Not sure what to make of that.


----------



## rony07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> It probably has to do with your top GPU no longer going into a low idle and using more energy to run at 96hz at 1440p..


I've got MSI Afterburner open on my other monitor, and the cards are definitely downclocking to 324MHz and idling nice and cool at 35C. Cool is a relative term, because it's hot as balls here in Surprise, AZ. I keep the house at 78F ambient.


----------



## moonshine6456

just received mine today from ipsledmonitors, no dead pixels and overclocked to 120hz with no problems only problem is BLB on the bottom right... is there a way to fix this myself?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> just received mine today from ipsledmonitors, no dead pixels and overclocked to 120hz with no problems only problem is BLB on the bottom right... is there a way to fix this myself?


Please read the OP for BLB fix and there is a video.


----------



## rldev

I just hooked up my X-Star 2710. No backlight bleed, no loose panel and no dead or stuck pixels. Luck of the draw. I also purchase a ST warranty for $35. My Samsung 2494hm just died just after 3.5 years.

$310 on Ebay from "lovelypeople"
I bought it from them because their policies were clearly written.
Korea to NJ in 3 days.
The picture on this thing is simply fantastic. But god the case is ugly.

I don't play many games, but my GT240 is not going to cut it. Windows Media Center is a bit choppy at full screen.


----------



## cleiomar

Just finished setting up my qnix from green-sum and I'm counting four stuck red pixels with two of them being in the center area. Looks great other than that though...


----------



## ronquilent

-


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rldev*
> 
> I just hooked up my X-Star 2710. No backlight bleed, no loose panel and no dead or stuck pixels. Luck of the draw. I also purchase a ST warranty for $35. My Samsung 2494hm just died just after 3.5 years.
> 
> $310 on Ebay from "lovelypeople"
> I bought it from them because their policies were clearly written.
> Korea to NJ in 3 days.
> The picture on this thing is simply fantastic. But god the case is ugly.
> 
> I don't play many games, but my GT240 is not going to cut it. Windows Media Center is a bit choppy at full screen.


The X-Star's seem to be better off in terms of backlight bleed. Is the ST warranty worth it? Also, it says $49.99 for the ST warranty from lovelypeople. How did you get it for $35?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> The X-Star's seem to be better off in terms of backlight bleed. Is the ST warranty worth it? Also, it says $49.99 for the ST warranty from lovelypeople. How did you get it for $35?


Squaretrade is worth it. I have had personal experience and have read several good reviews. So far the only negative consensus is that they are quick to offer a refund(bad thing?). Also the xstars having better backlight bleed could very easily be a byproduct of binning between the two brands since they are exactly the same(sticker aside) so don't hold to much to this statement.


----------



## faiyez

I actually like how the casing on the Qnix looks. The style of the ridges that meet the panel are a really nice touch.


----------



## caenlen

I just bought a really good DVI-D cable, gold plated, I can now hit 120hz without any lines popping up... was just a junk korean cable









happy days


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> I just bought a really good DVI-D cable, gold plated, I can now hit 120hz without any lines popping up... was just a junk korean cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> happy days


What cable did you get? I'm actually looking around for cable atm because I realized that there is no way I can get to a stable overclock without a high quality DVI cable. Even on wikipedia it says:

"Dual link maximum data rate is limited only by the bandwidth limits of the copper the DVI cable is constructed of and by the DVI signal's source."
The graphics card DVI ports also restrict the pixel clock to 330Mhz. Once you patch that with ToastyX's pixel clock patcher and get a high quality DVI cable then the PCB on the monitor is the limit.


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Squaretrade is worth it. I have had personal experience and have read several good reviews. So far the only negative consensus is that they are quick to offer a refund(bad thing?). Also the xstars having better backlight bleed could very easily be a byproduct of binning between the two brands since they are exactly the same(sticker aside) so don't hold to much to this statement.


Ok, looks like I'll get the ST warranties then. Thanks!


----------



## sniggleface

Got my QNIX QX2710 in today, ordered via Amazon and fulfilled by "MiseMet". It shipped yesterday via DHL from South Korea and arrived in Brooklyn the next day, even with a stop over in Ohio! Pretty amazing.

No dead or stuck pixels and BLB is not terrible, though similar to this post. 120hz was no go, but I'm currently rock solid at 115hz which is good enough for me. Coming from a 120hz TN panel, the ghosting difference is fairly noticeable but the colors and resolution more than make up for it.

I'm just hoping that the issues that cropped up with the 326.xx nVidia drivers do not recur. It would be kinda scary if this monitor suddenly stopped working with the latest drivers! Additionally, the patch by ToastyX probably needs to be continually updated, so that's another potential issue. Otherwise, I'm extremely satisfied with this purchase. I didn't even go for a pixel perfect monitor and it's flawless, but I probably got lucky.


----------



## Protomize

Hey guys, I don't think the slightly yellowish tint bleed that we see on some of our Qnix/X-star monitors is backlight bleeding. I think it's PLS glow.


----------



## ronquilent

If it really is PLS glow then shouldn't it be on all PLS units, not just some of them?


----------



## Protomize

The intensity of the glow could be a factor as to why these panels are in these budget 1440p monitors. Though, there are still some units that don't have any perceivable glow nor stuck pixels.


----------



## apav

Okay guys finally my QNIX from Ipsledmonitors.com arrived, and I am sad to say I got unlucky and received a bad one









Poor overclocking capabilities, worse backlight bleeding than my previous QNIX, one stuck pixel in the top center of the screen, and whatever this is. At first it looks like a spec of dirt on the screen, so I tried wiping it off. No luck.



Upon closer inspection I fear for the worst. Is this what I'm afraid it is?


There are some small differences between this and my first QNIX I bought back in April but died on me not too long ago. The new one is built a little more sturdier. I still wouldn't consider it sturdy, but it doesn't creak when I try to tilt it and the panel play is much better, although still there a little.This one has "QX2710LED" in white letters in the top left bezel of the corner, where my first one doesn't. Different power brick, and a little different gloss finish on the bezel.

Looks like I am returning this one though







This may be the first bad one from Ipsledmonitors.com reported here. It's probably just bad luck, they seem friendly and helpful from their emails and I'm sure they'll want to remedy this. I'll let you guys know how the return process goes. It just sucks I'm going to have to wait a week or more for a replacement (remember that these monitors still actually ship from Korea even though you're dealing with a US company), especially because I can't be sure the replacement will be better









But I guess I'm relieved in a way. If I bought this on eBay I would've been completely out of luck. I'm glad I can return and try again for free, but still... so much work and time involved!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Awesome, I think I'll pull the trigger on a matte Qnix then.
> 
> As an aside, what's the actual difference between the X-Star and Qnix? X-Stars are more expensive than Qnixes with green-sum but they're cheaper with dream-seller. Not sure what to make of that.


It straight amazes me that no one seems to read through the OP.

I just did a quick search on this thread and the other. This question has been asked and answered over 30 times!!!


----------



## ronquilent

I'll restate the question then: Why is the price for the X-Star and Qnix not the same? is it solely due to demand and supply which is driven by people's personal bias towards one monitor or the other?


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey guys, I've got a question.

Yesterday, I was using lightroom and I noticed that my colors were off. Went to look in colormanagement and saw that my monitor isn't showing up and neither is my color profile that I put in there. How the hell is this possible?

I did install a new motherboard, could that have something to do with it? Maybe I should do a clean instal of Windows?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> I'll restate the question then: Why is the price for the X-Star and Qnix not the same? is it solely due to demand and supply which is driven by people's personal bias towards one monitor or the other?


That is one possibility. It could also just be competitor competition between sellers. Or even the sellers trying to create the delusion of a dual market. All in all they are relatively the same price. A 5-20% price difference is typical on ebay. I mean i can find a car stereo for 400 bucks cheapest price. Then i can turn right around and try finding the highest price and find it for 1200.

What it comes down to is that it does not in any way matter since they are completely identical down to the sticker. So my question is what are you trying to find out? What the secret agenda is? LOL

EDIT: this is kinda like asking why a two GM vehicles that are just about identical in every way with the same feature pack are not the same price. Answer is some sort of marketing. Like why the RAT 9 mouse and the RAT albino are not the same price WELL one of them is WHITE LOL


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys, I've got a question.
> 
> Yesterday, I was using lightroom and I noticed that my colors were off. Went to look in colormanagement and saw that my monitor isn't showing up and neither is my color profile that I put in there. How the hell is this possible?
> 
> I did install a new motherboard, could that have something to do with it? Maybe I should do a clean instal of Windows?


First a clean install of drivers. No fix, then windows.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> First a clean install of drivers. No fix, then windows.


Also try both the video drivers and the monitor drivers themselves(in the device manager







).


----------



## SamTheGreat

So just received my Qnix from ipsledmonitors.com and right off the bat I got it with no protection on it other than the box it come with. So as one can guess it came scratched, scuffed and dirty as hell. I was expecting it to come with a least some protective wrapping but I guess that's just how they ship them. Well I decide to open it up to see if there was any damage to the monitor itself and luckily there was only a few scuff on the Styrofoam on the edges of the monitor and not on the monitor itself but I can see someone getting unlucky and wind up with a scratched up screen or edge with so little protection.

I connect the monitor and turn it on to check for stuck/dead pixels and i find one in the top right corner but its no big deal, I can barely see it from regular viewing distance but once I check the middle of the screen I see this pretty big blur or smudge and attempt to wipe it off but to no prevail. I honestly don't know what it is exactly because it doesn't affect the pixels on the screen directly like the other dead pixel. Its a couple pixels wide and really noticeable when in a white background. I kinda think it might be dust under the glass but not too sure I'll post a better picture of it later and hopefully you guys can help me out because if they are a clump of dead/stuck pixels I'm going to have to return it. Its just too noticeable.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheGreat*
> 
> So just received my Qnix from ipsledmonitors.com and right off the bat I got it with no protection on it other than the box it come with. So as one can guess it came scratched, scuffed and dirty as hell. I was expecting it to come with a least some protective wrapping but I guess that's just how they ship them. Well I decide to open it up to see if there was any damage to the monitor itself and luckily there was only a few scuff on the Styrofoam on the edges of the monitor and not on the monitor but I can see someone getting unlucky and wind up with a scratched up screen or edge with so little protection.
> I connect the monitor and turn it on to check for stuck/dead pixels and i find one in the top right corner but its no big deal, I can barely see it from regular viewing distance but once I check the middle of the screen I see this pretty big blur or smudge and attempt to wipe it off but to no prevail. I honestly don't know what it is exactly because it doesn't affect the pixels on the screen directly like the other dead pixel. Its a couple pixels wide and really noticeable when in a white background. I kinda think it might be dust under the glass but not too sure I'll post a picture of it later and hopefully you guys can help me out because if they are a clump of dead/stuck pixels I'm going to have to return it. Its just too noticeable.


Did you get matte or Glossy?If you got Matte its probably dust under the antiglare coating..I would return it since you bought it from ipsledmonitors.com..


----------



## SamTheGreat

Got it glossy. It's not really bad unless you're trying to type something up or editing some pictures and you naturally just want to grab a cleaning cloth to wipe it off.which pisses me off. :/


----------



## ladcrooks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> I just bought a really good DVI-D cable, gold plated, I can now hit 120hz without any lines popping up... was just a junk korean cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> happy days


I thought gold plating had no benefit - it was for the days of analogue not digital


----------



## kamaltmo

Hey Im new here and want some advice, I'm planning on getting QNIX QX2710 in the next few days and i'm trying to choose between these to sellers "accessorieswhole" and "dream-seller" any suggestions on who i should purchases with ? I can buy from "green-sum" since I am currently in Saudi Arabia and the do not ship here


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> First a clean install of drivers. No fix, then windows.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Also try both the video drivers and the monitor drivers themselves(in the device manager
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Thanks!


----------



## Ribozyme

Really want to get one! Am scared for warranty though and case is thick and ugly.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ribozyme*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really want to get one! Am scared for warranty though and case is thick and ugly.


Get a Square trade and debezel


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Get a Square trade and debezel


Googled squaretrade, doesn't work in europe I guess? Debezelling might be nice. Also is this screen matte or glossy? And how would these compare to the new batch of simians and crossovers, which are very sleek looking my god : http://www.overclock.net/t/1400740/crossover-black-tune-2735amg-achieva-shimian-qh2700-lite-edge-club


----------



## junkrok

As a glossy QNIX owner. You guys should really invest in microfibre cleaning cloth:

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-XL-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloth/dp/B00584WZKG/

Even the slightest smudge will be painfully obvious on a glossy screen. I made the mistake of touching the screen a few times when I was setting my monitor up. I had to spend 10 minutes buffing each smudge out. Its like they never go away. Anyway +1 for microfibre, DONT USE A T-SHIRT LOL:thumb:


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Okay guys finally my QNIX from Ipsledmonitors.com arrived, and I am sad to say I got unlucky and received a bad one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Poor overclocking capabilities, worse backlight bleeding than my previous QNIX, one stuck pixel in the top center of the screen, and whatever this is. At first it looks like a spec of dirt on the screen, so I tried wiping it off. No luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Upon closer inspection I fear for the worst. Is this what I'm afraid it is?
> 
> 
> There are some small differences between this and my first QNIX I bought back in April but died on me not too long ago. The new one is built a little more sturdier. I still wouldn't consider it sturdy, but it doesn't creak when I try to tilt it and the panel play is much better, although still there a little.This one has "QX2710LED" in white letters in the top left bezel of the corner, where my first one doesn't. Different power brick, and a little different gloss finish on the bezel.
> 
> Looks like I am returning this one though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This may be the first bad one from Ipsledmonitors.com reported here. It's probably just bad luck, they seem friendly and helpful from their emails and I'm sure they'll want to remedy this. I'll let you guys know how the return process goes. It just sucks I'm going to have to wait a week or more for a replacement (remember that these monitors still actually ship from Korea even though you're dealing with a US company), especially because I can't be sure the replacement will be better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I guess I'm relieved in a way. If I bought this on eBay I would've been completely out of luck. I'm glad I can return and try again for free, but still... so much work and time involved!


Just a small update. Ipsledmonitors is paying for return shipping (UPS) to their return shop in California. Once they receive it, they will be shipping a new monitor from S. Korea again. As happy as I am about the ability to return it, I'm going to wait another week or more for the next monitor to get here, and like I said before, with no guarantee it will have less issues. So unlucky


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Just a small update. Ipsledmonitors is paying for return shipping (UPS) to their return shop in California. Once they receive it, they will be shipping a new monitor from S. Korea again. As happy as I am about the ability to return it, I'm going to wait another week or more for the next monitor to get here, and like I said before, with no guarantee it will have less issues. So unlucky


Just be happy you don't have to ship it to korea...


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> Just be happy you don't have to ship it to korea...


I am, or have to pay for it for that matter. But I've already spent $30 on the SquareTrade warranty on the first one, and $40 more to buy from Ipsledmonitors (plus another $30 for when I get a good one I'll put SquareTrade on that one too). I'm just thinking how much more time/effort/money am I going to have to spend until I get a relatively good one? I'm a patient and forgiving guy, but going weeks without a monitor and spending way more than I planned is starting to hurt a little. I think it's a reasonable complaint, although it's nobody's fault. I won't abandon these monitors though!

Edit: Maybe I'll have better luck if I ask them to send me an X-Star instead (as they are having a better batch of those apparently) , but I'm a little reluctant because they are rumored to have different PCB's and a little less overclocking capability.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I am, or have to pay for it for that matter. But I've already spent $30 on the SquareTrade warranty on the first one, and $40 more to buy from Ipsledmonitors (plus another $30 for when I get a good one I'll put SquareTrade on that one too). I'm just thinking how much more time/effort/money am I going to have to spend until I get a relatively good one? I'm a patient and forgiving guy, but going weeks without a monitor and spending way more than I planned is starting to hurt a little. I think it's a reasonable complaint, although it's nobody's fault. I won't abandon these monitors though!
> 
> Edit: Maybe I'll have better luck if I ask them to send me an X-Star instead (as they are having a better batch of those apparently) , but I'm a little reluctant because they are rumored to have different PCB's and a little less overclocking capability.


I highly doubt it - I think someone found that Qnix and X-Star were registered at the same address, and producing a single PCB is much more efficient than 2 separate ones, and I doubt that in the sea of different Korean monitors it is these 2 different PCBs which have OC capabilities.
Statistically then there's the fact that "a little less" means nothing when you see the amount of variation these monitors have anyway. And I'm running my X-Star at 120Hz








so no need to worry.


----------



## Roybattius

That's awesome to hear. I just ordered from Ipsledmonitors today.


----------



## Reptar

How long did it take for your orders from IPSLEDMONITORS.com to ship? I ordered my QNIX on the 24th and haven't had any shipping email.


----------



## VanillaCena

Getting one of these tonight. I know both monitors are the same, but which seller would you guys recommend? Cost isn't much different. I'll be getting the SquareTrade warranty as well.

Qnix from green-sum
X-Star from dream-seller

Thanks!


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VanillaCena*
> 
> Getting one of these tonight. I know both monitors are the same, but which seller would you guys recommend? Cost isn't much different. I'll be getting the SquareTrade warranty as well.
> 
> Qnix from green-sum
> X-Star from dream-seller
> 
> Thanks!


May I ask why you are going for the glossy? I'm kind of torn between the semi-gloss's reflection elimination and the glossy's slightly higher clarity.

Sometimes I wish there was an electronic method for introducing a semi-gloss finish at the topuch a button during the day or when lights are on. I can see something like that in future monitors though.


----------



## VanillaCena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> May I ask why you are going for the glossy? I'm kind of torn between the semi-gloss's reflection elimination and the glossy's deeper blacks.


I'm going glossy for the supposedly deeper blacks and sharper text. There's also the fact that dust could potentially be trapped behind the matte film from the factory.

The only pro of the matte screen is the anti-glare, but I have blackout curtains that will take care of that.

On that note, how is the glossy screen working out for those of you with back-lit keyboards?


----------



## Swolern

I just received my Qnix from Dream-seller today. It took less than 24hrs after payment for Dream-seller to ship and the monitor arived in 4 days post shipping. I ordered a Glossy Perfect Pixel and received zero stuck/dead pixels, minimal blacklight bleed(only visible on completely black screen) and is stable up tp 126Hz. Looks like i got a winner!









*Pics*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








*OC Screenshot*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







*Pic for the club*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VanillaCena*
> 
> I'm going glossy for the supposedly deeper blacks and sharper text. There's also the fact that dust could potentially be trapped behind the matte film from the factory.
> 
> The only pro of the matte screen is the anti-glare, but I have blackout curtains that will take care of that.
> 
> On that note, how is the glossy screen working out for those of you with back-lit keyboards?


I have a glossy Shimian and a backlight logitech keyboard. When I work at night I don't really see the reflection of the leds on the screen if that's what you mean. I'm on the highest brightness setting to.


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*


I have the same wallpaper lol. It's nice especially for these screens. It actually feels like you're looking into the screen with it haha.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> I have the same wallpaper lol. It's nice especially for these screens. It actually feels like you're looking into the screen with it haha.


I just followed a few of the wallpaper links in the OP and spent hours downloading wallpapers I thought were awesome. Some obviously wern't shot nativley in 1440p though so I only made sure to download the ones that really stuck out on this monitor.

Now I just have them all in a folder with the wallpaper rotation set to 30 seconds. I can literally just sit and stare for hours.









*HERE* is a few of the best ones that I have found.


----------



## the0ne30

just got X-star monitor ,I can see boot and bios but, after windows 8 logo just goes black and blue power light it's just blinking


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> I just received my Qnix from Dream-seller today. It took less than 24hrs after payment for Dream-seller to ship and the monitor arived in 4 days post shipping. I ordered a Glossy Perfect Pixel and received zero stuck/dead pixels, minimal blacklight bleed(only visible on completely black screen) and is stable up tp 126Hz. Looks like i got a winner!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pics*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OC Screenshot*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How did you set the overclock? NVCP? CRU? Have you done any tweaking? If you just set it in the NVCP and didn't use LCD reduced or something and got that high that is a very good screen(pretty close to mine)


----------



## voozers

My Qnix is shipping now.. Do most of you guys use your own power cord with the power brick rather than the included one? And also what kind of DVI-D cables are you guys using? I realized I only had DVI-I so I bought a Monster DVI-D high speed for support up to 2560x1600 resolution and 85 hz. I hope I wasn't ripped off on the cable (paid 35 for it but I can always return it).


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voozers*
> 
> My Qnix is shipping now.. Do most of you guys use your own power cord with the power brick rather than the included one? And also what kind of DVI-D cables are you guys using? I realized I only had DVI-I so I bought a Monster DVI-D high speed for support up to 2560x1600 resolution and 85 hz. I hope I wasn't ripped off on the cable (paid 35 for it but I can always return it).


The monitors come with DVI-D cables. Some people report that higher grade cables help them achieve a better OC but for the most part the stock cables seem to do fine up to and over 120hz.


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> I just followed a few of the wallpaper links in the OP and spent hours downloading wallpapers I thought were awesome. Some obviously wern't shot nativley in 1440p though so I only made sure to download the ones that really stuck out on this monitor.
> 
> Now I just have them all in a folder with the wallpaper rotation set to 30 seconds. I can literally just sit and stare for hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HERE* is a few of the best ones that I have found.


Whoa, those are really nice! They really pop on these monitors







I only had a few which are somewhat mellow compared to these though. I added all your wallpapers to my folder and changed the cycle rate to 30 seconds since they're way more now.

HERE is my small collection of comparatively mellow wallpapers

Super nice collection and thanks for sharing! Hopefully we can get more of these in this thread/OP.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reptar*
> 
> How long did it take for your orders from IPSLEDMONITORS.com to ship? I ordered my QNIX on the 24th and haven't had any shipping email.


Ordered Saturday at 10am, I got the shipment confirmation email Monday at 9:30 am. I assumed it was because of the weekend. Not sure why it hasn't in your case. I'd give them a call.

So an update with my order from Ipsledmonitors. I started the RMA process, but I emailed back Kyle from sales whom I was chatting with before I placed my order. I explained to him my situation, and he replied:
Quote:


> Sorry to hear you had trouble. We will do our best to track down a better quality monitor for you. We've never had to exchange a monitor more than once for our customers, so let's make that our goal.


"Track down a better quality monitor" - What could that mean? I don't think they test the monitor before shipping (it comes from Korea after all), so how would they be able to tell which would be a better quality monitor? Anyway, they're going above and beyond to help me make this right. They have been fantastic to deal with and I still recommend them despite getting one with a lot of defects.

I wanted to ask, have you guys ever heard of a company shipping your replacement out before they receive your return? I can understand why not from a business standpoint, they need to make sure they're getting the same exact item back. But do you think it would be too much to ask? Only reason is because I have to wait 5 more days for UPS to ship it cross country back to them to wait 5 more days to get the replacement from Korea. They've helped me so much, I'd wonder if they'd be willing to do this in good faith.


----------



## Ricey20

Most companies don't do cross-shipping. Those that do require credit card information on file in case the person doesn't ship the product back within a timely manner. You could try and ask them if they will cross-ship since you've had more than 1 return, but don't be surprised if they ask for credit card info to allow it. They seem trustworthy though so I wouldn't worry too much if I had to.


----------



## combatant3219

Add me to the club please!


----------



## billy5000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Get a Square trade and debezel


Speaking of squaretrade, is this how it actually works if my product becomes defective in the future? 1) Ship to squaretrade at their expense. 2) If they can't fix it, they'll pay you the amount you paid for the product.

And a 3 year coverage?? Sounds way too good to be true, I was just making sure there isn't anything I'm unaware of, such as:

1) What if I end up with, say, 5 more pixels from the time I got it?
2) What if blacklighting issue becomes relatively worse?

Do they accept it under these conditions?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> How did you set the overclock? NVCP? CRU? Have you done any tweaking? If you just set it in the NVCP and didn't use LCD reduced or something and got that high that is a very good screen(pretty close to mine)


I just used the Pixel Clock Control utility in Precision X. I havent tweaked anything yet. 126hz has completely no artifact, 127-128hz has one tiny red line artifact, & 129hz and up has the large blue artifacts.

How much higher OC did you get after tweaking, and what did you use?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> I just followed a few of the wallpaper links in the OP and spent hours downloading wallpapers I thought were awesome. Some obviously wern't shot nativley in 1440p though so I only made sure to download the ones that really stuck out on this monitor.
> 
> Now I just have them all in a folder with the wallpaper rotation set to 30 seconds. I can literally just sit and stare for hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HERE* is a few of the best ones that I have found.


Awesome pics man. Thanks.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> *Pic for the club*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Late response but that background is awesome. It looks so good that it seems almost surreal when displayed on these monitors.

Edit: and apparently I was sniped







No problemo man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Whoa, those are really nice! They really pop on these monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only had a few which are somewhat mellow compared to these though. I added all your wallpapers to my folder and changed the cycle rate to 30 seconds since they're way more now.
> 
> HERE is my small collection of comparatively mellow wallpapers
> 
> Super nice collection and thanks for sharing! Hopefully we can get more of these in this thread/OP.


Again credit really goes to the sites in OP. I just had to do some serious digging lol.

Also adding those pics to my collection.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy5000*
> 
> Speaking of squaretrade, is this how it actually works if my product becomes defective in the future? 1) Ship to squaretrade at their expense. 2) If they can't fix it, they'll pay you the amount you paid for the product.
> 
> And a 3 year coverage?? Sounds way too good to be true, I was just making sure there isn't anything I'm unaware of, such as:
> 
> 1) What if I end up with, say, 5 more pixels from the time I got it?
> 2) What if blacklighting issue becomes relatively worse?
> 
> Do they accept it under these conditions?


I recently went through SquareTrade with my QNIX. But it was for the monitor failing (not displaying my computer, and seeing vertical lines when I wiggled my DVI cable in the port). They paid for shipping to a 3rd party service center. The same day it arrived there, I got an email saying that they would reimburse me for the full amount. I think they don't have the parts or the expertise to repair these monitors. My guess is that anyone else who sends their QNIX or X-Star to SquareTrade, for any reason besides defective pixels and backlight bleed, will be reimbursed. SquareTrade does not cover screen imperfections, here is a quote from their contract under what is not covered.
Quote:


> Television or personal computer monitor screen imperfections, including "burn-in" or burned CRT phosphor.


Since the eBay sellers list that up to a certain amount of dead/stuck pixels on a monitor is normal, SquareTrade will tell you that it is a preexisting condition.

SquareTrade isn't too good to be true. They are a reputable company with many happy customers, and they cover purchases from eBay and other physical and online stores. The catch here (if you would even call it that) is that they don't cover screen imperfections. They do cover any other malfunction, so I would get it just to be safe from that.

If you buy one of these monitors from eBay, there's nothing really you can do if you get one with some imperfections. If there are more defective pixels than the manufacturer says is ok, or serious backlight bleeding, the manufacturer will take it back, but you're paying for shipping to Korea. That's why this time around I bought from ipsledmonitors.com. They sell the same PLS and K-IPS monitors found on eBay. They're a little more expensive and you still have the same chance of getting a bad one, but you're buying from an American company that offers no question asked returns. The monitors still ship from Korea though, but if you need to return one, they pay for shipping back to their facility in Redondo Beach, CA. I'm currently in the process with that right now. I've gotten super unlucky this past month.

Hope this helps!


----------



## savvas42091

Hey everyone! I received my qnix monitor today and I am having some issues with it. When I start my pc up, there is a blue vertical line on the left edge of the screen that appears on the both the asus load up screen and the windows 7 loading page. There is some wierd pixelation going on as well. There can also be some blue lines flickering across the screen. The image on the screen itself also has some tremoring going on. Is this an issue with the monitor, the dvi cable, or is it my video card? My current rig has and AMD FX-8350, Asus M5A99FX motherboard, and running a sapphire 7950. Any help would be appreciated. Just pretty bummed out that the monitor is having this problem









EDIT : Upon further inspection, I saw that one of the pins on the dvi wire was bent. Put it back in place and everything is running quite well now!!! Quite excited. The only issue I see is some lightbleeding on the bottom left but nothing that bothers me too much at the moment.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> I just received my Qnix from Dream-seller today. It took less than 24hrs after payment for Dream-seller to ship and the monitor arived in 4 days post shipping. I ordered a Glossy Perfect Pixel and received zero stuck/dead pixels, minimal blacklight bleed(only visible on completely black screen) and is stable up tp 126Hz. Looks like i got a winner!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pics*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OC Screenshot*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pic for the club*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice. Thats a great OC. I don't see your info in the club members list. Have you filled out the form in the OP?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Again credit really goes to the sites in OP. I just had to do some serious digging lol.
> 
> Also adding those pics to my collection.


Thanks. Some of those sites I added myself, but most were recommended to be added to the list by y'all. So credit goes back to all of you, the community


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> I just received my Qnix from Dream-seller today. It took less than 24hrs after payment for Dream-seller to ship and the monitor arived in 4 days post shipping. I ordered a Glossy Perfect Pixel and received zero stuck/dead pixels, minimal blacklight bleed(only visible on completely black screen) and is stable up tp 126Hz. Looks like i got a winner!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pics*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OC Screenshot*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pic for the club*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sorry this is off topic but, how is the BF4 Alpha?


----------



## mikailmohammed

Guys i am thinking of buying 1 of these to play bf4 on. I currently have a dell U2412hm, I either buy this or a viewsonic ips 27" 1080p. I will buy either from amazon.

I have a 3570k OC to 4.5Ghz and 2 GTX 680 in sli with 8gb of ram. Will this be sufficient for bf4 or even bf3? If so can someone post their frames on bf3 so i can have an average.


----------



## billy5000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I recently went through SquareTrade with my QNIX. But it was for the monitor failing (not displaying my computer, and seeing vertical lines when I wiggled my DVI cable in the port). They paid for shipping to a 3rd party service center. The same day it arrived there, I got an email saying that they would reimburse me for the full amount. I think they don't have the parts or the expertise to repair these monitors. My guess is that anyone else who sends their QNIX or X-Star to SquareTrade, for any reason besides defective pixels and backlight bleed, will be reimbursed. SquareTrade does not cover screen imperfections, here is a quote from their contract under what is not covered.
> Since the eBay sellers list that up to a certain amount of dead/stuck pixels on a monitor is normal, SquareTrade will tell you that it is a preexisting condition.
> 
> SquareTrade isn't too good to be true. They are a reputable company with many happy customers, and they cover purchases from eBay and other physical and online stores. The catch here (if you would even call it that) is that they don't cover screen imperfections. They do cover any other malfunction, so I would get it just to be safe from that.
> 
> If you buy one of these monitors from eBay, there's nothing really you can do if you get one with some imperfections. If there are more defective pixels than the manufacturer says is ok, or serious backlight bleeding, the manufacturer will take it back, but you're paying for shipping to Korea. That's why this time around I bought from ipsledmonitors.com. They sell the same PLS and K-IPS monitors found on eBay. They're a little more expensive and you still have the same chance of getting a bad one, but you're buying from an American company that offers no question asked returns. The monitors still ship from Korea though, but if you need to return one, they pay for shipping back to their facility in Redondo Beach, CA. I'm currently in the process with that right now. I've gotten super unlucky this past month.
> 
> Hope this helps!


Thank you so much. I'm definitely considering squaretrade as I haven't come across many people who's had these korean monitors for over a year. Who knows how long they'll last?

Repped!


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Guys i am thinking of buying 1 of these to play bf4 on. I currently have a dell U2412hm, I either buy this or a viewsonic ips 27" 1080p. I will buy either from amazon.
> 
> I have a 3570k OC to 4.5Ghz and 2 GTX 680 in sli with 8gb of ram. Will this be sufficient for bf4 or even bf3? If so can someone post their frames on bf3 so i can have an average.


Dude 680 sli? No problem. I was running BF3 averaging 80fps at 2560x1440 with everything maxed (except only 2x msaa) on a SINGLE 680. Although that 680 was overclocked to about 1.25ghz.

I bought a 780 at the same time I bought this monitor because of the same worries you had. Now that I have the 780 of course I am keeping it and selling the 680 (I am a OCN member after all







). In hindsight the 780 was pretty much a unnecessary purchase though.

The only good thing is the increased memory interface and size. That will probably start to show after a year or so in some games. For BF3 and BF4 I would say you are more than fine though.


----------



## xioros

In!


----------



## mikailmohammed

Finally someone with a 680. LOL. I plan on buying it then i don't care for the MSAA will leave it of since i see it is irrelevant at 1440p res. Also my pc is fully water cooled so i will oc the 2 680 providing they remain stable and stuff. Thanks for the swift reply.


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Dude 680 sli? No problem. I was running BF3 averaging 80fps at 2560x1440 with everything maxed (except only 2x msaa) on a SINGLE 680. Although that 680 was overclocked to about 1.25ghz.
> 
> I bought a 780 at the same time I bought this monitor because of the same worries you had. Now that I have the 780 of course I am keeping it and selling the 680 (I am a OCN member after all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). In hindsight the 780 was pretty much a unnecessary purchase though.
> 
> The only good thing is the increased memory interface and size. That will probably start to show after a year or so in some games. For BF3 and BF4 I would say you are more than fine though.


Finally someone with a 680. LOL. I plan on buying it then i don't care for the MSAA will leave it of since i see it is irrelevant at 1440p res. Also my pc is fully water cooled so i will oc the 2 680 providing they remain stable and stuff. Thanks for the swift reply.


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Finally someone with a 680. LOL. I plan on buying it then i don't care for the MSAA will leave it of since i see it is irrelevant at 1440p res. Also my pc is fully water cooled so i will oc the 2 680 providing they remain stable and stuff. Thanks for the swift reply.


Don't buy year old cards for the love of god







780 or wait for 20nm. Unless you really have a weak card right now and can get a really good price on a 670/680/7970.


----------



## viwe649

There's my validation photo...


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ribozyme*
> 
> Don't buy year old cards for the love of god
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 780 or wait for 20nm. Unless you really have a weak card right now and can get a really good price on a 670/680/7970.


I already have 2 680. Had it since the year started. I only pllay bf3 and well BF4 so once i t can play those games i am happy.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioros*
> 
> In!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's my validation photo...


Verified. Thank you!


----------



## Swolern

Is there a warm-up period on these monitors? Unless my eyes are playing tricks on me, my monitor looks more vibrant & has more pop after @ 8hrs of use.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Dude 680 sli? No problem. I was running BF3 averaging 80fps at 2560x1440 with everything maxed (except only 2x msaa) on a SINGLE 680. Although that 680 was overclocked to about 1.25ghz.
> 
> I bought a 780 at the same time I bought this monitor because of the same worries you had. Now that I have the 780 of course I am keeping it and selling the 680 (I am a OCN member after all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). In hindsight the 780 was pretty much a unnecessary purchase though.
> 
> The only good thing is the increased memory interface and size. That will probably start to show after a year or so in some games. For BF3 and BF4 I would say you are more than fine though.


You can say that again. I'm selling my 7970 to get a 780. It's a pretty frivolous purchase for most people (even I feel sort of bad about it) but anything that will help me push more fps to get a more fluid 120hz experience! And if the 9970 is really that much better over the 780, I'll sell my 780 and pick one up (should cost around the same I sold my 780 for).


----------



## markus225

I recently got the Qnix QX2710 to use on my mac setup, mostly for work and some web browsing. It sits right beside my PC dual monitor setup, so I wanted some separation with all the black going on. Thanks to the feedback on this forum, I would have ended up with a 1080p if I wasn't introduced and re-assured about these value monitors.

"Poor Man's Cinema Display Clone Mod"

Steps:

1) Removed the front bezel and stand.

2) 3 Base coats of plasti-dip rubberized coating (BLACK) ($7 at local hardware store).

3) Let base coast dry for 3 hours.

4) 4 Finish coats of plasti-dip pearlizer (https://www.dipyourcar.com/product.php?productid=62&cat=31&page=1). This pearlizer is what changes the monitor from black to brushed aluminum. The pearl gives the finish its "sheen" or slight luster, instead of just a flat gray.

5) Let it cure at least 4 hours.


----------



## DiceAir

do you guys think i should go for normal or pixel perfect model. Here is the links

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27in-PC-Monitor-/111078927580?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item19dcd1ecdc

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649

or should I rather buy from this seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/221233250459?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338287809b

If I order the perfect pixel it will work out to about $500-$510 including the customs and so on. If I go for the cheapest one it will work out much cheaper but higher risk. Do you guys think there have been much success with these and it's save to go cheapest/

Thanks


----------



## markus225

DiceAir,

if you read the first page of the forum there is a pretty good run-down of Pixel-Perfect. There is also a feedback chart and you can compare sellers as well. Good luck.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> do you guys think i should go for normal or pixel perfect model. Here is the links
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27in-PC-Monitor-/111078927580?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item19dcd1ecdc
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649
> 
> or should I rather buy from this seller.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/221233250459?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338287809b
> 
> If I order the perfect pixel it will work out to about $500-$510 including the customs and so on. If I go for the cheapest one it will work out much cheaper but higher risk. Do you guys think there have been much success with these and it's save to go cheapest/
> 
> Thanks


Perfect pixel is covered in the OP and has been asked and answered 27 times.

EDIT: If your against searching at all for information. The perfect pixel is a scam but may be useful if bought with a squaretrade warranty.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markus225*
> 
> DiceAir,
> 
> if you read the first page of the forum there is a pretty good run-down of Pixel-Perfect. There is also a feedback chart and you can compare sellers as well. Good luck.


Beat me by 6 seconds LOL


----------



## szeged

fired up my xstar for the first time today, 0 back light bleed, 1 dead pixel that i can see, wish i didnt look for any because now that i know where it is i cant stop seeing it lol, only see it on all white screens though so its no big deal. time to calibrate and play with colors


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markus225*
> 
> I recently got the Qnix QX2710 to use on my mac setup, mostly for work and some web browsing. It sits right beside my PC dual monitor setup, so I wanted some separation with all the black going on. Thanks to the feedback on this forum, I would have ended up with a 1080p if I wasn't introduced and re-assured about these value monitors.
> 
> "Poor Man's Cinema Display Clone Mod"
> 
> Steps:
> 
> 1) Removed the front bezel and stand.
> 
> 2) 3 Base coats of plasti-dip rubberized coating (BLACK) ($7 at local hardware store).
> 
> 3) Let base coast dry for 3 hours.
> 
> 4) 4 Finish coats of plasti-dip pearlizer (https://www.dipyourcar.com/product.php?productid=62&cat=31&page=1). This pearlizer is what changes the monitor from black to brushed aluminum. The pearl gives the finish its "sheen" or slight luster, instead of just a flat gray.
> 
> 5) Let it cure at least 4 hours.


That's cool! It looks nice, but I don't want to make my bezel as glossy and reflective as my screen







But great job nonetheless


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> fired up my xstar for the first time today, 0 back light bleed, 1 dead pixel that i can see, wish i didnt look for any because now that i know where it is i cant stop seeing it lol, only see it on all white screens though so its no big deal. time to calibrate and play with colors


If it's not right in the center, you'll get used to it. You'll know that it is there, but eventually you'll stop caring and stop seeing it altogether unless you are on a white screen and are looking in the area of it.


----------



## markus225

Thanks apav. its more of a brushed aluminum finish, so it doesn't put out that chrome reflective look. It's closer to being a flat finish with a slight amount of sheen.


----------



## DiceAir

Ok but should I go for

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27in-PC-Monitor-/111078927580?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item19dcd1ecdc


----------



## Xiphos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> EDIT: If your against searching at all for information. The perfect pixel is a scam but may be useful if bought with a squaretrade warranty.


would you mind elaborating the bit "may be useful if bought with squaretrade warranty"?


----------



## markus225

It's up to you... I had a good experience with dream-seller. Again you can find out these details outlined in the first page when it comes to buying, seller reputaton, pixel-perfect vs regular. All the research is already done for you, all you have to do is read the documentation that's been put together.


----------



## Stylook

Hi all,

Could anyone tell me if Qnix QX2710 can be used on Windows XP Pro? I have dual boot. I need Windows XP Pro for old hardware. My graphic card is EVGA GTX 690.

Thank you.


----------



## kamaltmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by markus225 View Post
> 
> I recently got the Qnix QX2710 to use on my mac setup, mostly for work and some web browsing. It sits right beside my PC dual monitor setup, so I wanted some separation with all the black going on. Thanks to the feedback on this forum, I would have ended up with a 1080p if I wasn't introduced and re-assured about these value monitors.
> 
> "Poor Man's Cinema Display Clone Mod"
> 
> Steps:
> 
> 1) Removed the front bezel and stand.
> 
> 2) 3 Base coats of plasti-dip rubberized coating (BLACK) ($7 at local hardware store).
> 
> 3) Let base coast dry for 3 hours.
> 
> 4) 4 Finish coats of plasti-dip pearlizer (https://www.dipyourcar.com/product.php?productid=62&cat=31&page=1). This pearlizer is what changes the monitor from black to brushed aluminum. The pearl gives the finish its "sheen" or slight luster, instead of just a flat gray.
> 
> 5) Let it cure at least 4 hours.


How did you connect the display to your macbook ?


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Does the semi-gloss matte version of this monitor block considerably more reflections than the glossy screen?
> 
> 
> 
> Lighted reflections yes. I make my PC room dark when gaming.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Is there a video or something showing the lag difference between the QNIX/XSTARs and ASUS 144hz/BENQs?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Dont you have both as in your sig? Or did you buy and not receive yet.
Click to expand...

I only have the QNIX. So far I don't see any lag in CS:GO.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Anyone know how to keep CS:GO/games in 120Hz mode when in borderless windowed mode? I got it finally to stay in 120Hz in normal mode, but it seems to leave it when it goes borderless.


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markus225*


Nice.. love it when people mod their monitors!!!

The grey/alum base and bottom of the casing look awesome.. (not sure I would want the glossy black, more of a matte black myself)

Very professional looking


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> Nice.. love it when people mod their monitors!!!
> 
> The grey/alum base and bottom of the casing look awesome.. (not sure I would want the glossy black, more of a matte black myself)
> 
> Very professional looking


Is there a way to make the bezel a matte black? I would definitely want to try that.


----------



## SamTheGreat

Here's a better picture of the dead pixels? Still trying to figure out what it is.


----------



## markus225

Apav,

Yes just use the plasti-dip and it will give a flat black coat. If you don't like it, it peels off like a sticker. The only reason mine is brushed aluminum is because I applied the pearlizer finish over the plasti dip. Should be able to get it at the hardware store for $8-10.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

I got a qnix a few months ago. Loved them so much, just picked up 2 more, all from Green Sum. I haven't noticed any dead or stuck pixels and haven't noticed any backlight bleed.

I have a picture as my avatar but will upload one with my screen name.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheGreat*
> 
> Here's a better picture of the dead pixels? Still trying to figure out what it is.


Did you try buffing it out with a microfibre cloth? I have a QNIX glossy and its really easy to see the smallest spec of dust. It doesn't look like a dead pixel.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> I got a qnix a few months ago. Loved them so much, just picked up 2 more, all from Green Sum. I haven't noticed any dead or stuck pixels and haven't noticed any backlight bleed.
> 
> I have a picture as my avatar but will upload one with my screen name.


When you say "haven't noticed any dead or stuck pixels", does that mean you haven't really checked with all the different colored screens? The pixels are tiny and in normal use I think it would be near impossible to spot one.

I'm a little skeptical of all the self-reported pixel perfect monitors. I doubt everyone is testing for dead/stuck pixels to the same standard. Also a lot 120Hz OC'ers that might not know how to spot tearing, or just run for a couple minutes report perfect OC.

Update-
Not knocking on anyones monitor or their intelligence, just pointing out that self-reported data is npt always accurate


----------



## SamTheGreat

Yeah tried that. Kinda looks like the glass is scratched under a magnified glass. Just my luck, I'm asking for a refund asap.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheGreat*
> 
> Here's a better picture of the dead pixels? Still trying to figure out what it is.


Looks like dust under the anti glare coating..


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> When you say "haven't noticed any dead or stuck pixels", does that mean you haven't really checked with all the different colored screens? The pixels are tiny and in normal use I think it would be near impossible to spot one.
> 
> I'm a little skeptical of all the self-reported pixel perfect monitors. I doubt everyone is testing for dead/stuck pixels to the same standard. Also a lot 120Hz OC'ers that might not know how to spot tearing, or just run for a couple minutes report perfect OC.
> 
> Update-
> Not knocking on anyones monitor or their intelligence, just pointing out that self-reported data is npt always accurate


Good point, but fortunately that's a great thing about these types of monitors. The pixel size is small enough where these issues aren't as much of a problem. I wonder if the new era of "retina" style displays will cause resellers and manufacturers to change their dead pixel policies.

I didn't get any sort of guarantee with my QNIX that was ordered via Amazon and fulfilled by MiseMet (shipped from S. Korea) and I have zero dead or stuck pixels. BLB is somewhat evident but not enough to bother me. I probably got lucky in that regard, but I can't hit 120hz. I think I prefer 115hz stable and no dead pixels to the latter option.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> When you say "haven't noticed any dead or stuck pixels", does that mean you haven't really checked with all the different colored screens? The pixels are tiny and in normal use I think it would be near impossible to spot one.
> 
> I'm a little skeptical of all the self-reported pixel perfect monitors. I doubt everyone is testing for dead/stuck pixels to the same standard. Also a lot 120Hz OC'ers that might not know how to spot tearing, or just run for a couple minutes report perfect OC.
> 
> Update-
> Not knocking on anyones monitor or their intelligence, just pointing out that self-reported data is npt always accurate


I tested with a few different background colors. Sorry if I wasn't as anal at testing them as some other people but I do have a good eye and never noticed any dead or stuck pixels. I also ran my main one at 100mhz overclock as anything above 110-111mhz would cause lines, especially after a few hours of gaming. I haven't had any time yet to try the other 2.

Anyways here's my "initiation" picture.
http://s91.photobucket.com/user/OrangeSVTguy/media/GOPR3095_zps85d615eb.jpg.html


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> I tested with a few different background colors. Sorry if I wasn't as anal at testing them as some other people but I do have a good eye and never noticed any dead or stuck pixels. I also ran my main one at 100mhz overclock as anything above 110-111mhz would cause lines, especially after a few hours of gaming. I haven't had any time yet to try the other 2.
> 
> Anyways here's my "initiation" picture.
> http://s91.photobucket.com/user/OrangeSVTguy/media/GOPR3095_zps85d615eb.jpg.html


Yeah you better be sorry! Haha, I was just curious because the way you phrased it initially.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> When you say "haven't noticed any dead or stuck pixels", does that mean you haven't really checked with all the different colored screens? The pixels are tiny and in normal use I think it would be near impossible to spot one.
> 
> I'm a little skeptical of all the self-reported pixel perfect monitors. I doubt everyone is testing for dead/stuck pixels to the same standard. Also a lot 120Hz OC'ers that might not know how to spot tearing, or just run for a couple minutes report perfect OC.
> 
> Update-
> Not knocking on anyones monitor or their intelligence, just pointing out that self-reported data is npt always accurate


I would agree with both points but this monitor doesnt seem to tear as much as my 120hz samsung.

This monitor even at 110hz tears less than the really quick samsung 120hz SA950. But overall this monitor is noticeable slower and more stuttery than the 120hz Samsung. I really don't know why or what the explanation for that would be, because I always thought a quicker monitor would tear less. But I have less tearing for some reason.

But back to your point. I do think some people at 120hz do have lines and random glitches. But on another GPU I tested I did see very clear 120hz working perfectly with no glitches.


----------



## JDMfanatic

Interesting, it seems like everybody is saying that dream-seller ships really fast, but I ordered on Wednesday and they haven't shipped my monitor out yet or responded to my ebay messages... I WANT MY MONITORRRRRRRRR

Also, I read earlier in the thread that different cables have different performance? Should I go for the 24AWG monoprice cable? I read through a lot of this thread but I didn't see a clear answer


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic*
> 
> Interesting, it seems like everybody is saying that dream-seller ships really fast, but I ordered on Wednesday and they haven't shipped my monitor out yet or responded to my ebay messages... I WANT MY MONITORRRRRRRRR
> 
> Also, I read earlier in the thread that different cables have different performance? Should I go for the 24AWG monoprice cable? I read through a lot of this thread but I didn't see a clear answer


I covered this in the OP FAQ. Different cables and even different GPUs have had effects on people's overclocks. Some have better OCs with the stock cable, while most others have better with the monoprice cable. Some suggest that if you are extremely intent on getting the max OC possible, buy multiple monoprice cables.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeSVTguy*
> 
> I tested with a few different background colors. Sorry if I wasn't as anal at testing them as some other people but I do have a good eye and never noticed any dead or stuck pixels. I also ran my main one at 100mhz overclock as anything above 110-111mhz would cause lines, especially after a few hours of gaming. I haven't had any time yet to try the other 2.
> 
> Anyways here's my "initiation" picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s91.photobucket.com/user/OrangeSVTguy/media/GOPR3095_zps85d615eb.jpg.html


Amazing setup and cool background! Head over to the OP and sign up for the members list if you want


----------



## Spartan F8

Quake Live runs 120fps on this and it is pretty awesome clear as butter but still hard as hell LOL


----------



## Ricey20

The Blue Jeans Cable dvi cable I bought worked better than my monoprice. I could have just gotten a bad monoprice one but the BJC connector was better quality too. They use 24awg as well, so it's another option.


----------



## Ribozyme

Hmm just got into counter strike, having a good time. I feel 1440p 120 hz would be in order for this game. Excuse found! Will more of these PLS monitors pop up in the coming months? I just don't like the casing. And I'm not good enough with my hands and tools to debezel en build own casing and whatnot.


----------



## ForceD

does anyone know exactly what the dc connector size is that powers these screens? I'm looking to order some connector tips, and wire it up to a molex connector to power the screen via my psu.


----------



## Blasman

So I got an ASUS VE278Q right now as my primary monitor... looking to upgrade to the QNIX QX2710 LED as my primary and move the VE278Q to my secondary... I'm looking at ebay for value... I see http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3 and http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Glossy-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/321099912197?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac30bd405 as valid options... the first link is a dollar cheaper and comes with a plug-in adapter to use the monitor with a north American plug-in, and the seller has better feedback... but the second link is the more common choice among people it seems... but why would I want to pay a dollar more and have to buy a plug in adapter with dream-seller over green-sum? So many options... I'm also leaning towards glossy over matte as I have a lamp BEHIND my monitor that lights the room that I am in, so reflection doesn't seem like it would make a huge issue. The Asus VE278Q that I'm using is Matte, and I've used glossy in the past and the "vividness" of glossy seems like it would be a better option, especially seeing as the main lighting in my room is coming from behind the monitor... I'm pretty torn of where to buy from and why at the moment. I'm in Canada, and I suppose I probably can't go wrong with either ebay seller... just looking for some advice before I take the $300 plunge... thanks. I'm using a single Radeon HD 7970 as my graphics card at the moment, OC'd to 1175 MHZ and 1575 MHz memory if that makes a difference...


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blasman*
> 
> So I got an ASUS VE278Q right now as my primary monitor... looking to upgrade to the QNIX QX2710 LED as my primary and move the VE278Q to my secondary... I'm looking at ebay for value... I see http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3 and http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Glossy-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/321099912197?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac30bd405 as valid options... the first link is a dollar cheaper and comes with a plug-in adapter to use the monitor with a north American plug-in, and the seller has better feedback... but the second link is the more common choice among people it seems... but why would I want to pay a dollar more and have to buy a plug in adapter with dream-seller over green-sum? So many options... I'm also leaning towards glossy over matte as I have a lamp BEHIND my monitor that lights the room that I am in, so reflection doesn't seem like it would make a huge issue. The Asus VE278Q that I'm using is Matte, and I've used glossy in the past and the "vividness" of glossy seems like it would be a better option, especially seeing as the main lighting in my room is coming from behind the monitor... I'm pretty torn of where to buy from and why at the moment. I'm in Canada, and I suppose I probably can't go wrong with either ebay seller... just looking for some advice before I take the $300 plunge... thanks. I'm using a single Radeon HD 7970 as my graphics card at the moment, OC'd to 1175 MHZ and 1575 MHz memory if that makes a difference...


Are you not content with the asus?


----------



## Blasman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ribozyme*
> 
> Are you not content with the asus?


Everything that I've been hearing about 1440p over 1080p makes me believe that I've been missing out (I've never had the opportunity to actually see a 1440p screen)... and I came from http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=19235&vpn=FP241W and then http://www.amazon.com/Sony-BRAVIA-KDL-46EX500-1080P-46-Inch/dp/B0035ER1IM as my main monitors over the last five years... and well, the Asus is complete garbage compared to both of those as main monitors... it took me at least three months to get used to the terrible colors on the asus, despite all of the positive reviews... and I do miss zero back light bleeding compared to the asus... but I suppose a small amount wouldn't hurt in turn for other advantages... I had to sell the Sony Bravia as I moved to the other side of Canada and couldn't afford to move the TV with me... but with a lot of anti-aliasing, it was the best computer monitor that I ever had, even if it was "just 1080p." From what I have read, the 27" QNIX sounds like a major step up... am I wrong to think this?


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blasman*
> 
> Everything that I've been hearing about 1440p over 1080p makes me believe that I've been missing out (I've never had the opportunity to actually see a 1440p screen)... and I came from http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=19235&vpn=FP241W and then http://www.amazon.com/Sony-BRAVIA-KDL-46EX500-1080P-46-Inch/dp/B0035ER1IM as my main monitors over the last five years... and well, the Asus is complete garbage compared to both of those as main monitors... it took me at least three months to get used to the terrible colors on the asus, despite all of the positive reviews... and I do miss zero back light bleeding compared to the asus... but I suppose a small amount wouldn't hurt in turn for other advantages... I had to sell the Sony Bravia as I moved to the other side of Canada and couldn't afford to move the TV with me... but with a lot of anti-aliasing, it was the best computer monitor that I ever had, even if it was "just 1080p." From what I have read, the 27" QNIX sounds like a major step up... am I wrong to think this?


Sorry, I thought the asus was 1440p as well. Wow big ass monitor for sure! And then you have people compalining about seeing pixels on 27 inch 1080p







I would go for it then.


----------



## Roybattius

I've got the Asus vg248 running at 144hz and lightboost enabled, but I want 1440p too, so I ordered the QX2710. Once I evaluate games and overall quality of the 2710, I'll decide whether I'll keep the asus or sell it and get another 1440p.


----------



## DiceAir

Can you guys tell me if this monitors is good for gaming like BF3 etc etc?


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Can you guys tell me if this monitors is good for gaming like BF3 etc etc?


I do not own any of these monitors but I've read quite a bit of this thread to decide wether or not to buy one. And it seems that many buy these monitors for gaming and are satisfied it becuase if the resolution and beautiful colors. Ofcourse there us as much motion blur as any other ips( I know this is PLS) but there is the added benefit of overclocking out of the box and so the potential of reducing motion blur a lot if you have the graphical horsepower to run the games fps close to the refresh rate.


----------



## Jaeflash

I have a question about shipping for those who have ordered one already. I live in an apartment, and I'm worried about having the monitor left in front of the door where it might get stolen. USPS is the only shipping method that will leave the packages at the office, and I doubt any of the sellers ship it that way. Has anyone had theirs held at the nearest shipping center (FedEx/UPS/etc.) for pickup?


----------



## Protomize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaeflash*
> 
> I have a question about shipping for those who have ordered one already. I live in an apartment, and I'm worried about having the monitor left in front of the door where it might get stolen. USPS is the only shipping method that will leave the packages at the office, and I doubt any of the sellers ship it that way. Has anyone had theirs held at the nearest shipping center (FedEx/UPS/etc.) for pickup?


I live in an apartment building and when I am not there, the driver brings the package back to the station. I then have a time window between 7-9pm to pick up the package from the station later that day. I must call in before 7pm to notify them that I want the package held for pickup and not re-delivered the next business day. Sometimes, my neighbors that I am friendly with manage to catch the driver as he's ringing my bell when I'm not home and they hold the package for me. You can call and tell UPS that you want the package held at the station and you will come by and pick it up. If it's not a same day pick up from a missed delivery attempt, you have a 9am-9pm time window to pick up your package. Good luck!


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaeflash*
> 
> I have a question about shipping for those who have ordered one already. I live in an apartment, and I'm worried about having the monitor left in front of the door where it might get stolen. USPS is the only shipping method that will leave the packages at the office, and I doubt any of the sellers ship it that way. Has anyone had theirs held at the nearest shipping center (FedEx/UPS/etc.) for pickup?


I also live in a apartment. The shipping method mine was sent through was UPS. You can get UPS to hold the package at your local UPS location. All you have to do is sign up for a account at ups.com. After that just login and track your package via the tracking number. You can then select change delivery and then select "hold for pickup".

It's pretty easy and I do this for most of my packages. As you already said you don't have to worry about having your packages sit at your door. I think the biggest plus to doing this is getting the package whenever it's convenient for you. The UPS truck usually doesn't come by until after 5pm at my apartment complex. So it always kind of sucks waiting around all day to get new goodies lol. When you have it setup for pickup however you have the option to get it the minute the UPS center opens.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ribozyme*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Can you guys tell me if this monitors is good for gaming like BF3 etc etc?
> 
> 
> 
> I do not own any of these monitors but I've read quite a bit of this thread to decide wether or not to buy one. And it seems that many buy these monitors for gaming and are satisfied it becuase if the resolution and beautiful colors. Of course there us as much motion blur as any other ips( I know this is PLS) but there is the added benefit of overclocking out of the box and so the potential of reducing motion blur a lot if you have the graphical horsepower to run the games fps close to the refresh rate.
Click to expand...

Like said above, make sure you have a good CPU/GPU for playing at 1440P. I don't have my monitor OCed at the moment because my single gpu isn't enough to get me 120fps consistently in games, and games still feel smooth to me. The only time i notice motion blur is when I try and twitch game in planetside 2.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roybattius*
> 
> I've got the Asus vg248 running at 144hz and lightboost enabled, but I want 1440p too, so I ordered the QX2710. Once I evaluate games and overall quality of the 2710, I'll decide whether I'll keep the asus or sell it and get another 1440p.


I went through this as well, I had an Asus 144hz with lightboost and then got a 1440p crossover. I loved the resolution but couldn't stand the reduced framerate. I then got the Qnix and found it was indeed a best of both worlds situation. The resolution and picture quality are definitely there and the framerate from the Asus to the [email protected] was marginal.


----------



## ronquilent

Can someone post a high resolution picture that has only the full size of the panel for both a semi-gloss and glossy PLS so that's it becomes easier to compare? I'm really indecisive on which of the two to get and I'm afraid that if i go for the semi-gloss i may end up with a spec behind the coating. Other than that I'm leaning towards matte since I sit next to a few windows.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Can you guys tell me if this monitors is good for gaming like BF3 etc etc?


BF3 is the only game I really play and it's amazing.. Way better then my 27in 1080p 60hz TN panel..


----------



## Droogie

I'm thinking of getting one of these to replace my 24" 120hz Asus. I'm just curious if these can easily be OC'd to 120hz, and whether or not I should ugprade to a 4gb card if I do get one. IUt's a ong thread, and didn't wanna dig through about the overclocking. I honestly have no idea how that works.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I'm thinking of getting one of these to replace my 24" 120hz Asus. I'm just curious if these can easily be OC'd to 120hz, and whether or not I should ugprade to a 4gb card if I do get one. IUt's a ong thread, and didn't wanna dig through about the overclocking. I honestly have no idea how that works.


Did you at least try digging through the first post?


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> Did you at least try digging through the first post?


Thanks for not answering the question. A yes or no would have been nice. I know they can be overclocked, but I'm wondering how simple it is and what the overall results from people here have been. My biggest concern is whether or not I should get a new card.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Thanks for not answering the question. A yes or no would have been nice. I know they can be overclocked, but I'm wondering how simple it is and what the overall results from people here have been. My biggest concern is whether or not I should get a new card.


I think you have the sense of guilt backwards. Yes he could have said yes or no, but then the same question is answered for the 50+ time again. What would be nice is if newcomers would AT LEAST read the OP before asking redundant questions. So the sense of "not nice" guilt is actually on you. This concept is known throughout the entire internet on every popular forum.

So the answer is YES if you go back and actually read the information that has already accumulated in this thread you will find your answer in glorious detail repeated dozens of times.


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I think you have the sense of guilt backwards. Yes he could have said yes or no, but then the same question is answered for the 50+ time again. What would be nice is if newcomers would AT LEAST read the OP before asking redundant questions. So the sense of "not nice" guilt is actually on you. This concept is known throughout the entire internet on every popular forum.
> 
> So the answer is YES if you go back and actually read the information that has already accumulated in this thread you will find your answer in glorious detail repeated dozens of times.


Yet the question still goes unanswered, nor is my question addressed in the OP.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Yet the question still goes unanswered, nor is my question addressed in the OP.


Wow you have to be kidding. The OP has an "overclocking step-by-step guide" and the information regarding VRAM needs is answered almost 20 times which i just found in a search for "memory requirements at 1440p".


----------



## Spartan F8

NEW MEMBERS:
PLEASE READ INFO BELOW!
ESPECIALLY THE FAQ!!
Many of your questions can be answered here, rather than being asked about again and again in the thread only to be referred back to here, the Original Post (OP).


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Wow you have to be kidding. The OP has an "overclocking step-by-step guide" and the information regarding VRAM needs is answered almost 20 times which i just found in a search for "memory requirements at 1440p".


Yet still no answer. OCN used to be willing to answer quesitons. Who cares if it has been asked before? I don't want to dig through 400+ pages. I want some personal opinions and experiences from people on here. That's what the forums are for. I'm looking for some results from actual users. I already said I know it can be OC'd. I'm looking for results from actual owners.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Yet the question still goes unanswered, nor is my question addressed in the OP.


FROM THE OP

Q: Does the monitor overclock?
A: Yes. To see the various overclocks (OCs) reported, look to the expandable section below titled "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis" and look for the pie graph of reported OCs.

Q: Can I buy a monitor that will OC to 120 Hz, guaranteed?
A: No, not as far as I know. There are theories that monitors sold by certain sellers have a better chance to OC higher, but it is considered to be random.

Step 1 Update your video card drivers to the newest version.
If using a crossfire (multi AMD GPU) setup, than multiple crossfire bridges must be used. For example, if crossfiring two GPUs than two crossfire bridges must be used.

Note: If you have a 200 or below series Nvidia card (ex: GTX260, etc.), reports suggest that an OC above 96 Hz is not possible. Time for an upgade! smile.gif
Step 2 Single and SLI Nvidia card setups should patch their Nvidia driver to overclock (OC). The patch is more unnecessary for SLI card owners, but its recommended for all Nvidia owners to use. [CLICK] The patch is found here.

AMD/ATI card owners need to patch their driver as well. The patch used is different than the Nvidia one used above. [CLICK] Instructions and patch can be found here.
Step 3 Both the Nvidia and AMD clock patch should include an executable which puts your computer in and out of Test Mode. You need to put your computer in Test Mode and keep it in Test Mode as long as your monitor is OCed. Restart your computer. In the lower right corner it will say "Test Mode" as long as it is on. I've read there is a way to make the text go away.
Step 4 Nvidia and AMD:
Download and install the [CLICK] Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) here.

To use the utility above: click the stock 60Hz profile, press the copy button, make a new profile and then use the paste button. This has created a mirror image of the stock profile. Next, just edit the refresh rate number at the bottom (should be 60 originally) to something like 96. Here is some explanation + pictures of the window that pops up to edit your custom refresh rate in CRU [CLICK]. This makes a refresh rate profile for your computer of 96 Hz. Once that's done, reboot your computer can go into your computer settings (catalyst control center for AMD, and Nvidia control panel for Nvidia) and choose the refresh rate that you just created.

If having bad OC results, it may help to have the "LCD Reduced" enabled in CRU. Also, in CCC enable Reduce DVI Frequency.

And yes i did actually have to search for the VRAM requirements which it has been proven that 2GBs is sufficient without excessive AA.


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> FROM THE OP
> 
> Q: Does the monitor overclock?
> A: Yes. To see the various overclocks (OCs) reported, look to the expandable section below titled "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis" and look for the pie graph of reported OCs.
> 
> Q: Can I buy a monitor that will OC to 120 Hz, guaranteed?
> A: No, not as far as I know. There are theories that monitors sold by certain sellers have a better chance to OC higher, but it is considered to be random.
> 
> Step 1 Update your video card drivers to the newest version.
> If using a crossfire (multi AMD GPU) setup, than multiple crossfire bridges must be used. For example, if crossfiring two GPUs than two crossfire bridges must be used.
> 
> Note: If you have a 200 or below series Nvidia card (ex: GTX260, etc.), reports suggest that an OC above 96 Hz is not possible. Time for an upgade! smile.gif
> Step 2 Single and SLI Nvidia card setups should patch their Nvidia driver to overclock (OC). The patch is more unnecessary for SLI card owners, but its recommended for all Nvidia owners to use. [CLICK] The patch is found here.
> 
> AMD/ATI card owners need to patch their driver as well. The patch used is different than the Nvidia one used above. [CLICK] Instructions and patch can be found here.
> Step 3 Both the Nvidia and AMD clock patch should include an executable which puts your computer in and out of Test Mode. You need to put your computer in Test Mode and keep it in Test Mode as long as your monitor is OCed. Restart your computer. In the lower right corner it will say "Test Mode" as long as it is on. I've read there is a way to make the text go away.
> Step 4 Nvidia and AMD:
> Download and install the [CLICK] Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) here.
> 
> To use the utility above: click the stock 60Hz profile, press the copy button, make a new profile and then use the paste button. This has created a mirror image of the stock profile. Next, just edit the refresh rate number at the bottom (should be 60 originally) to something like 96. Here is some explanation + pictures of the window that pops up to edit your custom refresh rate in CRU [CLICK]. This makes a refresh rate profile for your computer of 96 Hz. Once that's done, reboot your computer can go into your computer settings (catalyst control center for AMD, and Nvidia control panel for Nvidia) and choose the refresh rate that you just created.
> 
> If having bad OC results, it may help to have the "LCD Reduced" enabled in CRU. Also, in CCC enable Reduce DVI Frequency.
> 
> And yes i did actually have to search for the VRAM requirements which it has been proven that 2GBs is sufficient without excessive AA.


None of which answers my question. Thanks, though. Asking is a lot easier than digging through threads. That's what the forum is for.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Yet still no answer. OCN used to be willing to answer quesitons. Who cares if it has been asked before? I don't want to dig through 400+ pages. I want some personal opinions and experiences from people on here. That's what the forums are for. I'm looking for some results from actual users. I already said I know it can be OC'd. I'm looking for results from actual owners.
> 
> This isn't about guilt. I asked a yes or no question, and I got a jerk response.


Just about everyone who really has contributed cares if it has been asked before because we continue to dilute the page further and further which makes this information harder and harder to find. And i also think you mis-understood me, it is not a jerk response it is a corrective response. This is why we have such a detailed OP. Plus you say that OCN "used" to answer your questions, well we still are it just has already been answered.

Also it might be a good thing to include in the OP about VRAM requirements, just an idea.


----------



## Spartan F8

OK well lets back up. Here is your exact post:

"""""
I'm thinking of getting one of these to replace my 24" 120hz Asus. I'm just curious if these can easily be OC'd to 120hz, and whether or not I should ugprade to a 4gb card if I do get one. IUt's a ong thread, and didn't wanna dig through about the overclocking. I honestly have no idea how that works.
"""""

I'm just curious if these can easily be OC'd to 120hz - Overclocking guide and FAQ ---Done

whether or not I should ugprade to a 4gb card if I do get one -- answered with easy search and i actually told you ---Done

I honestly have no idea how that works. -- same as first question ---Done

What has NOT been answered?


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Just about everyone who really has contributed cares if it has been asked before because we continue to dilute the page further and further which makes this information harder and harder to find. And i also think you mis-understood me, it is not a jerk response it is a corrective response. This is why we have such a detailed OP. Plus you say that OCN "used" to answer your questions, well we still are it just has already been answered.
> 
> Also it might be a good thing to include in the OP about VRAM requirements, just an idea.


I didn't get an answer. I got attacked. Not appreciated. I asked a yes or no question. I didn't get a yes or no answer. That's all I have to say to you. I'll be sure to ask your permission before I ask another question here.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I didn't get an answer. I got attacked. Not appreciated. I asked a yes or no question. I didn't get a yes or no answer. That's all I have to say to you. I'll be sure to ask your permission before I ask another question here.


Yes i am the bad guy LOL.. I just broke down your post and i am really not sure what you even wanted now.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I didn't get an answer. I got attacked. Not appreciated. I asked a yes or no question. I didn't get a yes or no answer. That's all I have to say to you. I'll be sure to ask your permission before I ask another question here.


Yes the monitor is simple to OC. I use the EVGA Precision X OC tool and its a 2 step process. OC varies with quality of the monitor. 99% have at least been able to OC to 96hz. Only a few are stable up to 120-130hz without any artifact.


----------



## Droogie

I asked a question and you responded with a snarky remark about the question instead of answering it. A yes or no would have avoided this, nor did the OP answer the question about the overall results from users here. I wanted some personal experiences from people as far as their results went. The OP didn't answer the video card question. It didn't answer how easily overclocked it is. I'm wondering what problems people have had, etc. Looking for personal experiences.

It's ok, though. I'm sorry I offended you for asking the question. My question remains open, though. That's what the forum is for. If anyone can provide me with some of their experiences with this monitor, it would be appreciated.


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Yes the monitor is simple to OC. I use the EVGA OC tool and its a 2 step process. OC varies with quality of the monitor. 99% have at least been able to OC to 96hz. Only a few are stable up to 120-130hz without any artifact.


Thank you. Was a fix for the test mode ever found? The OP mentions hearing of one.


----------



## N3C14R

Ordered my xstar, hope its good. *fingers crossed*


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I asked a question and you responded with a snarky remark about the question instead of answering it. A yes or no would have avoided this, nor did the OP answer the question about the overall results from users here. I wanted some personal experiences from people as far as their results went. The OP didn't answer the video card question. It didn't answer how easily overclocked it is. I'm wondering what problems people have had, etc. Looking for personal experiences.
> 
> It's ok, though. I'm sorry I offended you for asking the question. My question remains open, though. That's what the forum is for. If anyone can provide me with some of their experiences with this monitor, it would be appreciated.


Mine hits 120hz with no issues..Not all will do that though..









Sometimes people don't want to fill the thread up by the same questions being asked..But then they post EIGHT times telling you to look here when a simple ONE response of yes would have saved all this..And it would have not dragged on for 3 pages..


----------



## Droogie

I'm on an Asus 24" 120hz right now. It actually looks really good for a TN. I have no real complaints about it.

The only reason I'm looking at one of these is the resolution. I'd like to upgrade from 1080p,but I don't want to give up my refresh rate to do it. Ordering from Korea raises concerns, too.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I'm on an Asus 24" 120hz right now. It actually looks really good for a TN. I have no real complaints about it.
> 
> The only reason I'm looking at one of these is the resolution. I'd like to upgrade from 1080p,but I don't want to give up my refresh rate to do it. Ordering from Korea raises concerns, too.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


Order from here..It still comes from Korea but you get a no questions asked return policy..

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Default.asp


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I asked a question and you responded with a snarky remark about the question instead of answering it. A yes or no would have avoided this, nor did the OP answer the question about the overall results from users here. I wanted some personal experiences from people as far as their results went. The OP didn't answer the video card question. It didn't answer how easily overclocked it is. I'm wondering what problems people have had, etc. Looking for personal experiences.
> 
> It's ok, though. I'm sorry I offended you for asking the question. My question remains open, though. That's what the forum is for. If anyone can provide me with some of their experiences with this monitor, it would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine hits 120hz with no issues..Not all will do that though..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes people don't want to fill the thread up by the same questions being asked..But then they post EIGHT times telling you to look here when a simple ONE response of yes would have saved all this..And it would have not dragged on for 3 pages..
Click to expand...

I learned that a long time ago on here. I had one of those MSI 465 gold edition cards that unlocked to 470's. There was a thread for owners of that, and like this, potential buyers had some stress in regards to buying one based on the gamble of it unlocking.

This is really expensive stuff for a lot of people, and the questions are often for reassurance and a feeling of security before investing in the unknown.

That's what these threads are for, though.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## yasamoka

Great thread guys.

I have a question for the 96Hz+ / 120Hz users.

Can you please look REALLY closely and check whether you have panel uniformity issues at higher than 96Hz? Use solid color backgrounds if it helps.

A few weeks back, I had the impression that most / all of those who were cranking the high overclocks were suffering from:

1) Panel uniformity issues

2) "Darkening" which is a gamma shift that can easily be corrected by software color calibration (I suppose it happens with 100% of users)

3) Image retention which was happening as a result of an image staying on the monitor for a good amount of time (I remember some reporting IR when they didn't expect it though) (I suppose this happens with 100% as well)

I am mostly concerned with the 1st, as the other two are not much of an issue (the 2nd can be corrected, the 3rd can be avoided)

Cheers!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I learned that a long time ago on here. I had one of those MSI 465 gold edition cards that unlocked to 470's. There was a thread for owners of that, and like this, potential buyers had some stress in regards to buying one based on the gamble of it unlocking.
> 
> This is really expensive stuff for a lot of people, and the questions are often for reassurance and a feeling of security before investing in the unknown.
> 
> That's what these threads are for, though.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


Well then now i have a grip on what you were wanting. For any lack of understanding on my part i will offer my apologies and try and make up for it with my in-site as an owner of this monitor and several other.

First off overclocking: Really this can be as easy and as hard as you make regarding which method you use and the level of difficulty will be relative to the extent you are able to overclock and the stability said overclock will be. The general methods seem to be in order from easiest to hardest:

1. Nvidia OC tool. You virtually just move the slider and apply and check for stability.
2. NVCP custom resolution. This can be as simple as the first method but you can use the manual setting to set timings(which is where it can get tricky)
3. CRU this is almost the same as the last method but is the first to actually put it into the EDID of the driver and is registered by the system as an actual native resoluton(which can be beneficial in game recognition)

All of these methods are still reliant (when it comes to 120hz) on a patch to release the pixel patch limited on the drivers of your video card. I thus far haven't seen anyone mention this and we are essentially disregarding any searching. Without the pixel patch(depending on your GPU) you will very likely not be able to go above 108hz due to the 300mhz or 400mhz(SLI) cap on pixel count(being the data sent over the DVI cable). With the patch you can break the limit and hit 120hz in almost all instances with the Qnix but stability may very(lines). This is where the different methods can have advantages at the higher difficulty(really just more steps). There has been a very small sample size of reports that they have been able to get 120hz without the patch. This may very well be something related to the edition of card 600 or 700 series or the version of the drivers(beta?)

Using the NVCP or CRU you can use a reduced frequency count to reduce the pixel clock thus getting a more stable overclock. CRU gives you a bit more settings to toy around with but is a pain as it requires a restart due to it hacking the driver EDID. This leaves many with using the NVCP to test with and then using CRU to save so it is set as a native resolution. The extra settings in CRU over NVCP have had no positive effect on overclocking i have been able to find thus far.

There is also the custom catleap driver to take into account. This should be unneeded if using CRU(hacking the EDID) but there has been several poeple(myself included) that have had to use it to get games to see the resolution. Also, for games without a refresh rate setting after getting the resolution set in CRU you will need to go into the 3D settings in the NVCP for that specific game and set "proffered refresh" to "highest available" to force the game to use the higher refresh.

I hope this is helpful in your endeavor. I also again express my regret in not seeing your posts actual purpose(even though i don't think the structure of the post supported it)

OneGun i completely agree on both counts


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Great thread guys.
> 
> I have a question for the 96Hz+ / 120Hz users.
> 
> Can you please look REALLY closely and check whether you have panel uniformity issues at higher than 96Hz? Use solid color backgrounds if it helps.
> 
> A few weeks back, I had the impression that most / all of those who were cranking the high overclocks were suffering from:
> 
> 1) Panel uniformity issues
> 
> 2) "Darkening" which is a gamma shift that can easily be corrected by software color calibration (I suppose it happens with 100% of users)
> 
> 3) Image retention which was happening as a result of an image staying on the monitor for a good amount of time (I remember some reporting IR when they didn't expect it though) (I suppose this happens with 100% as well)
> 
> I am mostly concerned with the 1st, as the other two are not much of an issue (the 2nd can be corrected, the 3rd can be avoided)
> 
> Cheers!


Panel uniformity can be lightened at custom timings that overall lower the pixel clock. Mainly the total pixel count.


----------



## wntrsnowg

I will add a section to the OP FAQ about recommended GPUs, with emphasis on vram sizes. 2gb is recommended for gaming, while anything below that is fine for just using the monitor for non-gaming purposes right?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I will add a section to the OP FAQ about recommended GPUs, with emphasis on vram sizes. 2gb is recommended for gaming, while anything below that is fine for just using the monitor for non-gaming purposes right?


Absolutely. You could run 1440p with system integrated RAM if you had a built on DVI-D port. The 2GB of RAM is for texture filtering size/storage for processing. 2GB is essentially needed for the data size that 1440p size of textures takes at any given time. This would not effect anything outside of gaming or HD rendering with madvr.

EDIT: With NO AA on. If you plan on having 1440p and want all kinds of AA on(which is a bit useless for most but can help if you really want to) then you will need even more VRAM to store the filtered textures.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I will add a section to the OP FAQ about recommended GPUs, with emphasis on vram sizes. 2gb is recommended for gaming, while anything below that is fine for just using the monitor for non-gaming purposes right?


You could also include something about the 700 series and titan cards not having a pixel clock limit.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I asked a question and you responded with a snarky remark about the question instead of answering it. A yes or no would have avoided this, nor did the OP answer the question about the overall results from users here. I wanted some personal experiences from people as far as their results went. The OP didn't answer the video card question. It didn't answer how easily overclocked it is. I'm wondering what problems people have had, etc. Looking for personal experiences.
> 
> It's ok, though. I'm sorry I offended you for asking the question. My question remains open, though. That's what the forum is for. If anyone can provide me with some of their experiences with this monitor, it would be appreciated.


If you read the first post, there's an entire Google docs list of people and their experiences with their monitors...

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc


----------



## Droogie

Yes, and thank you for the ad hominem yet again. +Rep to those that actually helped.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Great thread guys.
> 
> I have a question for the 96Hz+ / 120Hz users.
> 
> Can you please look REALLY closely and check whether you have panel uniformity issues at higher than 96Hz? Use solid color backgrounds if it helps.
> 
> A few weeks back, I had the impression that most / all of those who were cranking the high overclocks were suffering from:
> 
> 1) Panel uniformity issues
> 
> 2) "Darkening" which is a gamma shift that can easily be corrected by software color calibration (I suppose it happens with 100% of users)
> 
> 3) Image retention which was happening as a result of an image staying on the monitor for a good amount of time (I remember some reporting IR when they didn't expect it though) (I suppose this happens with 100% as well)
> 
> I am mostly concerned with the 1st, as the other two are not much of an issue (the 2nd can be corrected, the 3rd can be avoided)
> 
> Cheers!


1) Minor if there. The slight BLB around the edges is more of a problem, neither are visible unless you look very closely.

2) Unavoidable, my gamma went from 2.5 to 3.3 after going to 120Hz. Fixed to 2.2 after I calibrated it.

3) I get very slight image retention of my top bar, but it goes after a few seconds. Is only visible as a slight lightening of the top few pixels, if you are looking for it.

For reference, I'm using a custom-made ICC profile on a 120Hz X-Star Matte. AMD 7870 Tahiti LE. CRU profile is LCD Reduced with a refresh rate of 120Hz.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I will add a section to the OP FAQ about recommended GPUs, with emphasis on vram sizes. 2gb is recommended for gaming, while anything below that is fine for just using the monitor for non-gaming purposes right?


I ran a 1GB HD7770 for a few weeks with this monitor, did all regular tasks perfectly. Most taxing thing was probably video playback, and I didn't have any problem with memory.

3GB minimum if you want to buy a card that'll last a few years though.


----------



## frankietown

hey guys, so some games are fine with 100hz but some games aren't.

for some reason some games still cap at 60fps. i have adaptive vsync on. should i just turn that off and will it display 100fps to me??

some games that show only 60fps:

cs:go
mortal kombat
street fight x tekken
dota 2

i am using the evga precision x + CRU method of overclocking.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankietown*
> 
> hey guys, so some games are fine with 100hz but some games aren't.
> 
> for some reason some games still cap at 60fps. i have adaptive vsync on. should i just turn that off and will it display 100fps to me??
> 
> some games that show only 60fps:
> 
> cs:go
> mortal kombat
> street fight x tekken
> dota 2
> 
> i am using the evga precision x + CRU method of overclocking.


Turning vsync off will NOT get you a actual higher framerate. You will be just running 100fps at 60hz. That is the difference between HZ and FPS. If you have this set in CRU you need to set your 3D settings in NVCP to preferred refresh rate to "highest available. I posted this a few pages back with some screen shots. You may need to re-install your drivers for the option to show up and if i remember correctly it may need to be 120hz for it to show up. Aside from that you could try installing the catleap 120hz driver and that may help you.

To find my post search force refresh rate in this thread.


----------



## ronquilent

Do you guys think that I can run 3 Qnix's off of a GTX 670 2GB? 2 @ 120Hz & 1 @ 96Hz (already got a usb-powered displayport to dual-link dvi adapter)? No heavy-duty stuff, just madVR for 1080p videos @ max settings on a single monitor.


----------



## jcm27

Just checked my tracking details from green-sum and noticed that it was held for tax/vat, rang them up and had to pay £12.20 (which isnt too bad, even though I got the seller to mark it at £36 and gift?). Anyways, tried to see if I could get it delivered today but no joy and said it will be here tomorrow








Overall, paid £205+£12 for a Perfect Pixel Qnix from green-sum, and I only put through my order last thursday


----------



## medicsalo

Used this wonderful thread and the others on overclock to finally push myself to build a computer and match it with a QNIX 2710. I ordered my Matte non-pixel perfect from Green-Sum on ebay for approx 280$ total.

My Impressions of everything:

1) Green-Sum was probably the best seller I have dealt with on ebay ever. The package shipped from korea to CA, USA in 24 hours! The box was super well packaged with 3 layers of thick bubble-wrap. Green-Sum also messaged me a few days later asking if i was happy with everything and encouraged me to let him know if anything goes awry regarding the monitor. Very impressed with this seller.

2) My monitor is absolutely stunning, it blows me away in terms of color reproduction and games look/play phenomenal. The stand has been a non-issue even though I can tell it is *not* top notch. I have only looked briefly for dead/stuck pixels and have found none, however I do have some minor back-light bleed on the bottom right(never notice it unless its an all-black load screen. Also my screen appears to sit crooked in the bezel by a very small bit, with the bottom left of the screen poking up.

3) Given the price, service, and how stunning the monitor is I am extremely happy. Gaming was the main reason for this monitor and so far playing Bioshock Infinite and Tomb Raider have been great. Truly a huge leap from a 360 or a mediocre rig pushing med settings on 1080p which is what i was used to.

I will post pictures soon. Just thought I would contribute back!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *medicsalo*
> 
> Used this wonderful thread and the others on overclock to finally push myself to build a computer and match it with a QNIX 2710. I ordered my Matte non-pixel perfect from Green-Sum on ebay for approx 280$ total.
> 
> My Impressions of everything:
> 
> 1) Green-Sum was probably the best seller I have dealt with on ebay ever. The package shipped from korea to CA, USA in 24 hours! The box was super well packaged with 3 layers of thick bubble-wrap. Green-Sum also messaged me a few days later asking if i was happy with everything and encouraged me to let him know if anything goes awry regarding the monitor. Very impressed with this seller.
> 
> 2) My monitor is absolutely stunning, it blows me away in terms of color reproduction and games look/play phenomenal. The stand has been a non-issue even though I can tell it is *not* top notch. I have only looked briefly for dead/stuck pixels and have found none, however I do have some minor back-light bleed on the bottom right(never notice it unless its an all-black load screen. Also my screen appears to sit crooked in the bezel by a very small bit, with the bottom left of the screen poking up.
> 
> 3) Given the price, service, and how stunning the monitor is I am extremely happy. Gaming was the main reason for this monitor and so far playing Bioshock Infinite and Tomb Raider have been great. Truly a huge leap from a 360 or a mediocre rig pushing med settings on 1080p which is what i was used to.
> 
> I will post pictures soon. Just thought I would contribute back!


Can you fire up some Battlefield 3 and check for ghosting. I'm tempting to buy it but don't want to if not good for Battlefield 3 or many other games


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Can you fire up some Battlefield 3 and check for ghosting. I'm tempting to buy it but don't want to if not good for Battlefield 3 or many other games


I'm coming from a 120 Hz Asus TN panel, at 96hz+ there is little ghosting in BF3 at high refresh rates. Very similar to the Asus non-Lightboost 120hz.


----------



## SamTheGreat

Is it normal to see this amount of glow?


----------



## DiceAir

maybe it's due to the monitor not being capable of handling over 96Hz that well.

I must say there is lot's of ghosting on my ASUS ve247H looks like a blue trail behind an image.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheGreat*
> 
> Is it normal to see this amount of glow?


It depends on the light shining on the screen. does it look fine when you play a game, view a movie or pictures?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I must say there is lot's of ghosting on my ASUS ve247H looks like a blue trail behind an image.


Your monitor is 60hz. The tail will be less noticeable at 120fps @ 120hz. Now the tail will still be there at 120hz. If you want no tail at all (aka motion blur), you have to get a CRT or a Lightboost monitor.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Your monitor is 60hz. The tail will be less noticeable at 120fps @ 120hz. Now the tail will still be there at 120hz. If you want no tail at all (aka motion blur), you have to get a CRT or a Lightboost monitor.


But does this screen look better or worse that's the question


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> But does this screen look better or worse that's the question


In my experience coming from a 120hz TN Samsung to this, there is apparent ghosting but it's not bad enough to make me switch back to the TN. The colors and resolution make up for it by far.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> I'm coming from a 120 Hz Asus TN panel, at 96hz+ there is little ghosting in BF3 at high refresh rates. Very similar to the Asus non-Lightboost 120hz.


Based on this plus what others have said ghosting is pretty much a non-issue and for those that do notice some it is far from a show stopper. BF3 looks so awesome now, especially once display is properly calibrated with a custom ICC. Try out a map like Armored Shield and you will see that this game actually has full and nice color! (yes some maps like Metro are still overall "blue").


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheGreat*
> 
> Is it normal to see this amount of glow?


That looks pretty normal to me (I have the QNIX glossy). It's hard to tell from a photo, make sure you are far back enough because the viewing angle effects how the BLB/GLOW is seen.


----------



## OneGun

All I play is bf3 and I don't really notice any ghosting at 120hz..


----------



## coelacanth

My Qnix is coming today. I ordered on 7/24 from green-sum, pixel-perfect matte. Green-sum created a shipping label immediately but it looks like my order got held up for a few days getting "registered" and "released" from the "Clearing Agency."

I have my Monoprice 24AWG dual link DVI-D cable and 14AWG power cable ready to go. Going to see how many Hz I can hit tonight.

Rep+ to the OP for the ridiculously awesome first post.









I'm coming from a 1080p 60Hz TN 2ms LCD. That's going to be my second monitor now. I'm driving the monitors with 2 x MSI GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes (3GB VRAM) in SLI.

I'm a gamer and can't wait to see Borderlands 2 / Witcher 2 / BF3 / Mass Effect 3 and whatever else I'm playing on this monitor.


----------



## Shock96

Thanks to all for the great posts and hard work to make these monitors such a top buy!

Ordered one today from Green-Sum. Can't wait to get it!


----------



## wollahi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic*
> 
> Interesting, it seems like everybody is saying that dream-seller ships really fast, but I ordered on Wednesday and they haven't shipped my monitor out yet or responded to my ebay messages... I WANT MY MONITORRRRRRRRR
> 
> Also, I read earlier in the thread that different cables have different performance? Should I go for the 24AWG monoprice cable? I read through a lot of this thread but I didn't see a clear answer


Any news about your monitor? I also ordered my monitor from dream-seller on Thursday and haven't recieved any ebay message from them which seems bit odd.







Hope it wont take too long to ship to Finland..


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wollahi*
> 
> Any news about your monitor? I also ordered my monitor from dream-seller on Thursday and haven't recieved any ebay message from them which seems bit odd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it wont take too long to ship to Finland..


FYI, I saw these PLS monitors on the front-page of SlickDeals.net last week, I can only imagine how many people bought one last week. who knows how many are even left...


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> My Qnix is coming today. I ordered on 7/24 from green-sum, pixel-perfect matte. Green-sum created a shipping label immediately but it looks like my order got held up for a few days getting "registered" and "released" from the "Clearing Agency."
> 
> I have my Monoprice 24AWG dual link DVI-D cable and 14AWG power cable ready to go. Going to see how many Hz I can hit tonight.
> 
> Rep+ to the OP for the ridiculously awesome first post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm coming from a 1080p 60Hz TN 2ms LCD. That's going to be my second monitor now. I'm driving the monitors with 2 x MSI GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes (3GB VRAM) in SLI.
> 
> I'm a gamer and can't wait to see Borderlands 2 / Witcher 2 / BF3 / Mass Effect 3 and whatever else I'm playing on this monitor.


Thank you! Glad it was helpful


----------



## sniggleface

Just got one of these stands for the QNIX: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C29QN8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's alright but it's definitely a bit cheap. The vesa screws were also too long, so I had to put a buffer between the vesa mount and the back of the display. The plastic nub that fits into the stock stand is now just hanging there and I'm guessing I have to remove the casing to get rid of it, but it doesn't really bother me.


----------



## Droogie

Hmm. Reading Green-sum, it says that a displayport to DVI-D adapter won't work on them. I'm looking at getting a laptop with a DP, and I've read reviews of the active adapters working on 1440p monitors @120hz. Anyone have any experience with one here?


----------



## Bryan792

I just got my first XStar from ipsledmonitors. It can OC to 96 but artifacts at 110+, has 1 dead pixel, and minimal BLB. Could the overclock be low because of my single 6950 not being able to handle it? Is it worth it to go for an exchange?


----------



## 6steven9

I saw a video by linus that said you need an active display port to dvi-d adapter and it should would although I haven't seen anyone confirm that


----------



## Droogie

It's kind of a big deal. I'm probably selling my desktop to move to a laptop, but I'd like to use a nice monitor while I'm home. I just need portability. The adapters are like $100, unfortunately.


----------



## Ironsight

I purchased an X-Star from dream-seller last Tuesday and it arrived today.

At 60 hz the monitor looks okay but when viewing a solid gray background I can see a vertical band very slightly darker than the rest of the screen.

At 120 hz there is no artifacting or flickering but the band is more noticeable. The banding isn't very noticeable in general use unless you're looking for it.
Do you guys think this is a decent monitor? (paid 350 CAD total)

Also does the banding actually damage the monitor overtime? Or is this just a property of the monitor that will stay constant.

I believe somewhere earlier in the thread something about changing the pixel clock to improve screen uniformity, can anyone direct me to a link?

This is my first post sorry for all the questions. Good luck to everyone else who ordered a monitor!


----------



## DiceAir

Just ordered my screen via Dream-seller. I hope I made the right choice. Hope my 2x GTX 570 will cope until i upgrade one day


----------



## billy5000

Just got mine. No dead pixels and minimal blb. The only problem i have is that I'm having a hard time tilting it. I'm being very delicate as I don't want to break it, but can this monitor not tilt as advertised?


----------



## faiyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryan792*
> 
> I just got my first XStar from ipsledmonitors. It can OC to 96 but artifacts at 110+, has 1 dead pixel, and minimal BLB. Could the overclock be low because of my single 6950 not being able to handle it? Is it worth it to go for an exchange?


You can't possibly return it for those reasons.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faiyez*
> 
> You can't possibly return it for those reasons.


From where he bought it he can return for any reason he wants.. That's the good thing of buying from them over a ebay seller..


----------



## Coree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wollahi*
> 
> Any news about your monitor? I also ordered my monitor from dream-seller on Thursday and haven't recieved any ebay message from them which seems bit odd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it wont take too long to ship to Finland..


Prepare, I paid 98 euroes of taxes. My monitor has 10+ stuck pixels, but only 2 are visible. The overall cost of my monitor was 335e.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> It's kind of a big deal. I'm probably selling my desktop to move to a laptop, but I'd like to use a nice monitor while I'm home. I just need portability. The adapters are like $100, unfortunately.


No personal experience myself, but I know that an active DP->DVI-D dual link will work. But it won't OC as well, and costs loads.

If you haven't got it yet just buy the DP version of the X-Star/Qnix - it'll be cheaper and I doubt a laptop GPU would push 120Hz - or try to spend the $100 on a better laptop (if you haven't got that yet) with a DVI-D dual-link out (not sure if you even get those).


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy5000*
> 
> Just got mine. No dead pixels and minimal blb. The only problem i have is that I'm having a hard time tilting it. I'm being very delicate as I don't want to break it, but can this monitor not tilt as advertised?


Which one did you get? The QNIX has zero adjustments which is why I bought a separate stand for it. In the mean time I just propped the back of the stand on a book to get it level.


----------



## billy5000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Which one did you get? The QNIX has zero adjustments which is why I bought a separate stand for it. In the mean time I just propped the back of the stand on a book to get it level.


Oh what.. owell, it's not something I'm worried about too much. I guess in the meantime I'll use a book like you suggested.

This actually props me into a good posture, which I don't mind at all. haha


----------



## aiya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy5000*
> 
> Just got mine. No dead pixels and minimal blb. The only problem i have is that I'm having a hard time tilting it. I'm being very delicate as I don't want to break it, but can this monitor not tilt as advertised?


If you talking about it tilting away from you and you want it to be tilted back to where it is straight up, then yes it can do that. I just recently got my Qnix and it came out of the box with it tilted away from me.

Like you, I was being gentle with it and didn't want to force anything so I just accepted the fact that the stand was damaged somehow during shipping and figured I could always prop it up on a book to level it out. Even though I had read in this thread that it can be tilted. Once I had everything setup on my desk, the tilt got to me and I just forced it to level out by pushing down from the top of the monitor with both hands, tilting it towards myself and I heard a loud snap. I thought I had broken the stand but turned out I didn't. The stand still wobbles cause its cheap but its standing up straight and true.

So, yes it can be tilted. It just takes a bit more effort.

I'm still planning on replacing the stand anyway, just haven't decided on a stand replacement or a monitor arm attached to my desk.


----------



## RemagCP

Quick question: which have better contrast, IPS, PLS or TN?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Quick question: which have better contrast, IPS, PLS or TN?


I currently own a PLS, IPS, and obviously several TN panels. I can say that PLS seems to have the best contrast but IPS is very close.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah menacing tuba's review mentions the excellent contrast.


----------



## onsit

Here is my setup of 3 debezeled QNIX QX2710 from Hulustar. No dead pixels, I had to fix the backlight bleed - but lets be serious all LED monitors have BLB. Very happy with my investment, superb colors and amazing user experience as a developer and front end designer.


----------



## mmrox117

Ordered an x-star a few days ago from dream seller, does anyone know if they update the ebay shipping status or does it just get shipped? its been three business days now and still not shipped. getting anxious for my new monitor xD


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmrox117*
> 
> Ordered an x-star a few days ago from dream seller, does anyone know if they update the ebay shipping status or does it just get shipped? its been three business days now and still not shipped. getting anxious for my new monitor xD


Took me about 2 days before they said it shipped..As soon as i got that notice it was at front door in 36hrs..


----------



## Benbenson

I've got some pretty horrible blb. Can I exchange it for this? I bought it from Green-Sum


----------



## coelacanth

I just got my QX2710 from green-sum. No backlight bleed, no dead pixels (as far as I can tell, haven't searched them out too carefully -- I bought a pixel-perfect matte monitor). I'm at 96Hz with no visual degradations or banding etc. I am using a 24 AWG dual-link DVI-D from Monoprice.

Can't wait to play around with this more and tweak, but right out of the box things look fantastic. All I've done so far was turn the brightness way down, it was searing my retinas.

I have Nvidia video cards and I'm using the EVGA Precision X Hz overclocking method. I've never used EVGA Precision X and the installer asked me if I wanted to install "Rivatuner Statistics Server." I said no.

Once Precision X is installed:

1) Open program
2) Click on the gears in the upper right
3) On the General tab, under "pixel clock control properties" hit Configure (Accept all the legal stuff if it's your first time)
4) Select the monitor you want to overclock (if you have multiple monitors) and move the slider up to the desired Hz
5) Hit Apply, then confirm your selection
6) Close Precision X

I don't have Precision X starting with Windows and upon reboot the monitor was still running at 96Hz (according to Nvidia Control Panel).

Pics / club membership / trying 120Hz etc. to follow.










Edit:
I'm noticing that in GPU-Z, neither of my video cards is downclocking anymore if I run my Qnix at 96Hz, even when just chilling at idle on my desktop. If I put both monitors back at 60Hz, then my second card does downclock to 50Mhz.

Edit 2:
For everyone saying they can't get their QNIX to tilt: I was having a hard time with it too so I just starting cranking on it pretty hard (hoping that it really could tilt), and it actually does tilt with a pretty good range of motion.


----------



## cleiomar

On my new Qnix, was thinking a cluster of stuck pixels but not sure. Anyone?

Measures about 10px x 10 px


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I have Nvidia video cards and I'm using the EVGA Precision X Hz overclocking method. I've never used EVGA Precision X and the installer asked me if I wanted to install "Rivatuner Statistics Server." I said no.


Just an FYI: the statistics server is required to display the current game (or general Direct3D) frame rate using its hardware monitor feature, as well as tweak some other things on a per-app basis. It's pretty handy to run on a secondary display when comparing overclocks or in-game settings.

Without it installed you can still use the other hardware monitors supported by Precision.


----------



## nimski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benbenson*
> 
> I've got some pretty horrible blb. Can I exchange it for this? I bought it from Green-Sum


Crack open the case to fix it. This should be a sticky or in the FAQ. That 'yellow' bleed is from excessive pressure on the display from somewhere inside the case. I posted an example of a fix a while back and it worked like a wonder. I have played further around a bit more since then and managed to remove almost all the backlight bleed. I can't even notice it anymore :thumb.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nimski*
> 
> Okay so I managed to fix my monitor. Turns out the clips that bolt the display to the frame were on too tight. I loosed all the bottom ones and the ones on the side and it made a HUGE difference. Mine was being completely crushed by the whole metal frame that you couldn't get off, so I unclipped the bottom portion and the sides. I wedged paper towels into the bottom of the monitor to keep it from sliding down and taped the frame down while exerting some pressure. That seemed to get rid of 80% of the bleeding. 95% of the bleeding.
> 
> My advice to anyone would be *to open up the case* if you have any issues of backlight bleeding. You'll eventually find the problem through trial and error and it will make a HUGE difference
> 
> Went from this:
> 
> 
> 
> To this:
> 
> 
> 
> This last picture exaggerates the BLB a bit due to the camera and distance


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cleiomar*
> 
> 
> 
> On my new Qnix, was thinking a cluster of stuck pixels but not sure. Anyone?
> 
> Measures about 10px x 10 px


That's an odd discoloration...

I would definitely try to exchange it.


----------



## voozers

I just received mine today from Amazon via MiseMet! No stuck pixels as far as I can see but some backlight bleeding on the bottom right. oh well if it DOES bother me I'll try to fix it but I'm hesitant to do that since I've never done that to a monitor before. 1440p is amazing! I'm kind of too lazy to verify and add myself to the form though.


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> No personal experience myself, but I know that an active DP->DVI-D dual link will work. But it won't OC as well, and costs loads.
> 
> If you haven't got it yet just buy the DP version of the X-Star/Qnix - it'll be cheaper and I doubt a laptop GPU would push 120Hz - or try to spend the $100 on a better laptop (if you haven't got that yet) with a DVI-D dual-link out (not sure if you even get those).


The laptop has a 680m, which is basically a downclocked gtx 670. It'll have no problem with 120hz. I'm trying to find one of these with a DP. The only 1440p monitors I've found with a DP are like $700+


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> The laptop has a 680m, which is basically a downclocked gtx 670. It'll have no problem with 120hz. I'm trying to find one of these with a DP. The only 1440p monitors I've found with a DP are like $700+


http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/X-Star-DP2710-MDP-Monitor-p/xst3.htm

They have the Qnix and Xstar with D port on Ebay also..You just gotta look for them.There is a member here who bought one.But don't expect them to OC really at all..


----------



## Droogie

Since it looks like I'm probably keeping my desktop anyway, DP isn't much of an issue. The guy who was supposed to buy my desktop was a no show, and I doubt I'll have the money for the laptop before it sells. I guess I'd like to grab one with DP just for future proofing, though. Never know what I'll get in the future.

Does the presence of the DP make it not OC well, or does it just not OC as well through DP as it does through DVI?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Since it looks like I'm probably keeping my desktop anyway, DP isn't much of an issue. The guy who was supposed to buy my desktop was a no show, and I doubt I'll have the money for the laptop before it sells. I guess I'd like to grab one with DP just for future proofing, though. Never know what I'll get in the future.
> 
> Does the presence of the DP make it not OC well, or does it just not OC as well through DP as it does through DVI?


Any of these Korean Monitors with multiple inputs don't OC as well as the single input D link DVI ones..


----------



## Hukkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Any of these Korean Monitors with multiple inputs don't OC as well as the single input D link DVI ones..


How come?


----------



## voozers

So possible noob question, I also read the faq but how do I change the brightness on my monitor?


----------



## JDMfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wollahi*
> 
> Any news about your monitor? I also ordered my monitor from dream-seller on Thursday and haven't recieved any ebay message from them which seems bit odd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it wont take too long to ship to Finland..


I messaged them and they told me it would ship on the 30th in Korean time (which is now) but they still haven't updated the shipping status. Hopefully they ship it tomorrow... maybe I should have used green sum instead


----------



## kamaltmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic*
> 
> I messaged them and they told me it would ship on the 30th in Korean time (which is now) but they still haven't updated the shipping status. Hopefully they ship it tomorrow... maybe I should have used green sum instead


I just received my shipping details and I order from them last thursday.


----------



## Coree

I got my OC up to 110hz w/o vertical lines (stock cable) but my right side of my monitor is darker than the left side. Also, I get some color vibrations on the right upper corner too. I played Gmod, and it was a lot smoother at 110hz. But then I calibrated my monitor, and there appeared burn-in marks on the top of the screen? Switched back to stock 60hz, and they disappeared in 15 mins. Any of you guys experienced this?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic*
> 
> I messaged them and they told me it would ship on the 30th in Korean time (which is now) but they still haven't updated the shipping status. Hopefully they ship it tomorrow... maybe I should have used green sum instead


I guess I got lucky. Dream-seller shipped out in 24hrs and I received it in 5days. You can message him, but it takes him forever to respond. Green-sum has much better communication.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coree*
> 
> I got my OC up to 110hz w/o vertical lines (stock cable) but my right side of my monitor is darker than the left side. Also, I get some color vibrations on the right upper corner too. I played Gmod, and it was a lot smoother at 110hz. But then I calibrated my monitor, and there appeared burn-in marks on the top of the screen? Switched back to stock 60hz, and they disappeared in 15 mins. Any of you guys experienced this?


Either try a 96hz OC or a different DVI-D cable. Some people have had issues with their included cable.


----------



## Benbenson

Thank you, I'm going to give this a try. I hate to return it because it runs like a champ and overclocked to 120 easily with no issues.


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> How come?


I have always heard because the additional ports require more processing input lag is increased drastically. I can only assume this has an effect on the OC as well.


----------



## firefox2501

You could also try the LCD reduced profile in CRU, this helped with several issues I was having.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefox2501*
> 
> I have always heard because the additional ports require more processing input lag is increased drastically. I can only assume this has an effect on the OC as well.


I wonder if this belief still has any merit, because for example the Asus VH236H (aka Evo monitor) is reported to have under 1f (16.6ms) of lag, and is therefore the monitor of choice for fighting gamers.

edit: I should probably add that the "Evo monitor" also has HDMI/DVI/VGA inputs.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voozers*
> 
> So possible noob question, I also read the faq but how do I change the brightness on my monitor?


Uh the buttons near the power one? I say "uh" cause not sure how you can't know that already unless yours are busted. The LED should flash when they are activated.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voozers*
> 
> So possible noob question, I also read the faq but how do I change the brightness on my monitor?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Uh the buttons near the power one? I say "uh" cause not sure how you can't know that already unless yours are busted. The LED should flash when they are activated.


It could be that he didn't notice that the order of the buttons is reversed compared to traditional western up/down ordering. The up button for each adjustment is on the left.


----------



## sniggleface

New nVidia drivers (326.41) but still not fixed for the blank display issue on these panels. A moderator of the Geforce forums did mention that this issue would be fixed in the WHQL drivers that are due out in early August.
Quote:


> Here is a list of some bugs which are either fixed or targeted for our WHQL driver release in early August:
> 
> No display on some monitors with Korean panels - Fixed in WHQL driver
> TDR after leaving GPU idle for 36 hours - Targeting fix in WHQL driver
> Faceworks demo shows DIgital Ira character with yellow beard - Fixed in WHQL driver


Full list of fixes: https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/569894/geforce-drivers/official-nvidia-326-41-beta-display-driver-feedback-thread-released-7-30-13-/post/3878097/#3878097


----------



## true86no

An update on OCíng my Qnix. Had it for 1 week plus now. Max OC out of the box last week was 96hz using just Nvidia Control Panel. Any higher was a no go.

After further lurking around here, I tried the driver patch recommended. It was a doozy. Rebooted into a black screen with the blue led on indicator blinking. Which I take, is the monitor going to sleep. I had no way of waking the thing up. Resorted to Windows 8 safe boot to wipe nvidia driver and reinstall. Spent a good hour doing all that.

Tonight after further lurking, tried the Precision X. Worked like a charm. Dragged slider to 120hz > apply. Simple as that. No fuss.

Honestly though I can't tell the difference between 96hz or 120hz. I thought I noticed more BLB but when I moved my head the BLB goes with me, so I chalk that up to matte screen viewing angles.

P.s. just want to add that I inverted all of Windows 8 into black as well as browse with Userstyles global dark always. I highly recommend not staring at a white light all the time to everyone.


----------



## voozers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Uh the buttons near the power one? I say "uh" cause not sure how you can't know that already unless yours are busted. The LED should flash when they are activated.


Oh i tried it but I didn't notice any change in brightness although the LED flashed. I'll try again.

EDIT: Oh I see the brightness change is a lot more subtle than other monitors so I just have to hold it longer.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh lol I had the same prob as you at first and should have remembered. Yeah you can hold it down too for a quicker change. Hard to see a diff even after 5 single clicks in either direction.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> An update on OCíng my Qnix. Had it for 1 week plus now. Max OC out of the box last week was 96hz using just Nvidia Control Panel. Any higher was a no go.
> 
> After further lurking around here, I tried the driver patch recommended. It was a doozy. Rebooted into a black screen with the blue led on indicator blinking. Which I take, is the monitor going to sleep. I had no way of waking the thing up. Resorted to Windows 8 safe boot to wipe nvidia driver and reinstall. Spent a good hour doing all that.
> 
> Tonight after further lurking, tried the Precision X. Worked like a charm. Dragged slider to 120hz > apply. Simple as that. No fuss.
> 
> Honestly though I can't tell the difference between 96hz or 120hz. I thought I noticed more BLB but when I moved my head the BLB goes with me, so I chalk that up to matte screen viewing angles.
> 
> P.s. just want to add that I inverted all of Windows 8 into black as well as browse with Userstyles global dark always. I highly recommend not staring at a white light all the time to everyone.


Would you mind writing up some steps/methods to OC for those with nvidia cards? Seems like there isn't just one way, but software will do it for you without having to use patches, restarts, or test modes


----------



## Packrobottom

I just got my X-Star from dreamseller. Glossy. 2 dead/stuck pixels bottom right corder right near edge. I didn't see them for the first couple hours till I put screen to white and got real close. (I don't know why people make such a big fuss about 1 or 2 dead pixels you can't see them after 10-12 inches anyway. Very miminal light bleed. If I didn't read this forum thread I wouldn't have even noticed it. I have to stand back with lights off and even then it's not just a faint glow at corners. Overall very happy with monitor so far. 3 days shipped. Btw does any have the direct download link to the Asus PB278Q v3.icc I don't see v3 at tftcentral.

Here is a pic
Btw does any have the direct download link to the Asus PB278Q v3.icc I don't see v3 at tftcentral.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> New nVidia drivers (326.41) but still not fixed for the blank display issue on these panels. A moderator of the Geforce forums did mention that this issue would be fixed in the WHQL drivers that are due out in early August.
> Full list of fixes: https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/569894/geforce-drivers/official-nvidia-326-41-beta-display-driver-feedback-thread-released-7-30-13-/post/3878097/#3878097


you can try rebooting then hit F8 and select low resolution mode


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Packrobottom*
> 
> I just got my X-Star from dreamseller. Glossy. 2 dead/stuck pixels bottom right corder right near edge. I didn't see them for the first couple hours till I put screen to white and got real close. (I don't know why people make such a big fuss about 1 or 2 dead pixels you can't see them after 10-12 inches anyway. Very miminal light bleed. If I didn't read this forum thread I wouldn't have even noticed it. I have to stand back with lights off and even then it's not just a faint glow at corners. Overall very happy with monitor so far. 3 days shipped.
> 
> Here is a pic


I had 1 stuck pixel but after a while it unstuck. There are images on the web to help unstick pixels, look for those.


----------



## Droogie

Does the eraser method work to fix stuck pixels? I remember on my old Hanns-G, I had a few pixels stuck red, and massaging the area with a pencil eraser would make them go away. They came back from time to time, but it always worked to fix them.

I'm kind of anal retentive about stuff like that. I'm thinking I'll pay the extra for pixel perfect when I actually order one. I'll have to sell my current monitor first, though.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Packrobottom*
> 
> I just got my X-Star from dreamseller. Glossy. 2 dead/stuck pixels bottom right corder right near edge. I didn't see them for the first couple hours till I put screen to white and got real close. (I don't know why people make such a big fuss about 1 or 2 dead pixels you can't see them after 10-12 inches anyway. Very miminal light bleed. If I didn't read this forum thread I wouldn't have even noticed it. I have to stand back with lights off and even then it's not just a faint glow at corners. Overall very happy with monitor so far. 3 days shipped. Btw does any have the direct download link to the Asus PB278Q v3.icc I don't see v3 at tftcentral.
> 
> Here is a pic
> Btw does any have the direct download link to the Asus PB278Q v3.icc I don't see v3 at tftcentral.


Had to do some digging. The file name asus_pb278q.icc when loaded into color management in windows is named "Asus PB278Q v3.icc" so look for that one (I verified it is on tftcentral just now).
i will update the OP


----------



## Coree

Can it help if I put the UDpixel program on and running it for 6-8 hours straight each day? Would that help to unstuck these pixels? So far 4 hours and no luck.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Packrobottom*
> 
> I just got my X-Star from dreamseller. Glossy. 2 dead/stuck pixels bottom right corder right near edge. I didn't see them for the first couple hours till I put screen to white and got real close. (I don't know why people make such a big fuss about 1 or 2 dead pixels you can't see them after 10-12 inches anyway. Very miminal light bleed. If I didn't read this forum thread I wouldn't have even noticed it. I have to stand back with lights off and even then it's not just a faint glow at corners. Overall very happy with monitor so far. 3 days shipped. Btw does any have the direct download link to the Asus PB278Q v3.icc I don't see v3 at tftcentral.
> 
> Here is a pic
> Btw does any have the direct download link to the Asus PB278Q v3.icc I don't see v3 at tftcentral.


You appear to be on OSX and there are some good profiles already build in that I found work well.


----------



## litster

I ordered a Qnix 2710 from green-sum on ebay last week Wednesday morning pacific time and it arrived on Monday. I bet if I ordered on Tuesday it would have been here on Friday the same week. I ordered the matt perfect pixel version. It does seem like perfect. I tested and saw no dead pixel. What is even better is that I can overclock it to 120Hz first try, using the DVI cable that the monitor came with no less. I am running a Galaxy GTX 670 with 4GB memory. I haven't had a chance to check for BLB though.

The monitor is super bright. I figured out that you have to *hold* down the brightness buttons to adjust up and down. Just pressing and releasing the button doesn't nothing.

I have to decide if I want to keep it at 120Hz all the time, even when I am not gaming. And read up on how to remove the "Test mode" text from the lower right corner.

Thank you to people on this thread for all the helpful information. I almost paid $600 for a Yamakasi 2B LCD


----------



## Outlawed

I did some more digging for wallpapers. I also cleaned up some of the pics in my previous link because I decided they didn't "pop" as well as the others on the monitor.

I give you *87 wallpapers* that really show off what this monitor can do.

As before I suggest setting up a background rotation for 30 seconds with all pictures in the folder. WARNING you will get lost staring at your desktop for hours!









Credit goes to the sites listed in OP.


----------



## exzacklyright

They keep going down in price lol... $282 now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> I did some more digging for wallpapers. I also cleaned up some of the pics in my previous link because I decided they didn't "pop" as well as the others on the monitor.
> 
> I give you *87 wallpapers* that really show off what this monitor can do.
> 
> As before I suggest setting up a background rotation for 30 seconds with all pictures in the folder. WARNING you will get lost staring at your desktop for hours!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Credit goes to the sites listed in OP.


I replaced my collection with these. Uh-ma-zingg. I think I'll lose some productivity over staring at these but they're a joy to look at.







Thanks for your hard work in collecting these gems and to the OP for listing the sites!!







It feels awesome to be transported to a different location every 30 seconds


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *litster*
> 
> I ordered a Qnix 2710 from green-sum on ebay last week Wednesday morning pacific time and it arrived on Monday. I bet if I ordered on Tuesday it would have been here on Friday the same week. I ordered the matt perfect pixel version. It does seem like perfect. I tested and saw no dead pixel. What is even better is that I can overclock it to 120Hz first try, using the DVI cable that the monitor came with no less. I am running a Galaxy GTX 670 with 4GB memory. I haven't had a chance to check for BLB though.
> 
> The monitor is super bright. I figured out that you have to *hold* down the brightness buttons to adjust up and down. Just pressing and releasing the button doesn't nothing.
> 
> I have to decide if I want to keep it at 120Hz all the time, even when I am not gaming. And read up on how to remove the "Test mode" text from the lower right corner.
> 
> Thank you to people on this thread for all the helpful information. I almost paid $600 for a Yamakasi 2B LCD


I found a firm press that lasts for a fraction of a second would allow to use the buttons to increase/decrease brightness by a single step. Hold the monitor as you do this otherwise the bezel moves and it's hard to do - and increasing brightness this way is easier than decreasing.


----------



## JJson

I have X-star QX 2710 monitor , the Power adaper that come with the monitor just soso...
I got a new one on Ebay, It works for me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390635732851&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

for someone have the power adapter's problem.


----------



## GuyHersh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> New nVidia drivers (326.41) but still not fixed for the blank display issue on these panels. A moderator of the Geforce forums did mention that this issue would be fixed in the WHQL drivers that are due out in early August.
> Full list of fixes: https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/569894/geforce-drivers/official-nvidia-326-41-beta-display-driver-feedback-thread-released-7-30-13-/post/3878097/#3878097


Thanks for the heads up! I got a notification that there was a new driver available but didn't want to update if it would still be unable to detect the monitor.


----------



## SamTheGreat

Is there a difference between glossy and tempered glass? Couldn't find it on the first post.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Left: Glass Right: Glossy




Glass=Mirror and grayish blacks


----------



## litster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I found a firm press that lasts for a fraction of a second would allow to use the buttons to increase/decrease brightness by a single step. Hold the monitor as you do this otherwise the bezel moves and it's hard to do - and increasing brightness this way is easier than decreasing.


Good to know. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## true86no

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> An update on OCíng my Qnix. Had it for 1 week plus now. Max OC out of the box last week was 96hz using just Nvidia Control Panel. Any higher was a no go.
> 
> After further lurking around here, I tried the driver patch recommended. It was a doozy. Rebooted into a black screen with the blue led on indicator blinking. Which I take, is the monitor going to sleep. I had no way of waking the thing up. Resorted to Windows 8 safe boot to wipe nvidia driver and reinstall. Spent a good hour doing all that.
> 
> Tonight after further lurking, tried the Precision X. Worked like a charm. Dragged slider to 120hz > apply. Simple as that. No fuss.
> 
> Honestly though I can't tell the difference between 96hz or 120hz. I thought I noticed more BLB but when I moved my head the BLB goes with me, so I chalk that up to matte screen viewing angles.
> 
> P.s. just want to add that I inverted all of Windows 8 into black as well as browse with Userstyles global dark always. I highly recommend not staring at a white light all the time to everyone.


Further update.

I can't boot at 120hz. Blank screen. Precision X can OC it to 120hz but I just can't boot with it. Booting at 96hz is fine though. For some reason, safe mode with low resolution doesn't work. Does anyone have the same problem? Any suggestions?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> Further update.
> 
> I can't boot at 120hz. Blank screen. Precision X can OC it to 120hz but I just can't boot with it. Booting at 96hz is fine though. For some reason, safe mode with low resolution doesn't work. Does anyone have the same problem? Any suggestions?


Eh, I don't really like the method of overclocking through the Nvidia control panel...I'd suggest using this method, maybe it will fix it?

Use *



* on how to OC and *use this* to remove the testmode watermark.

TL;DR of video

> - Patch drivers with Pixel Patcher
> - reboot
> - Enable Test Mode
> - reboot
> - Use CRU to create new resolution/Hz entries
> - reboot
> - Select your desired refresh rate
> - reboot
> - Use above program to remove the watermark
> - reboot
> - Enjoy


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> Further update.
> 
> I can't boot at 120hz. Blank screen. Precision X can OC it to 120hz but I just can't boot with it. Booting at 96hz is fine though. For some reason, safe mode with low resolution doesn't work. Does anyone have the same problem? Any suggestions?


If I'm you i would stay on 96hz. Rather safe than sorry. I'm going to do 96hz max as I don't want to brn my screen or cause it to fail 1 year later etc etc


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> Further update.
> 
> I can't boot at 120hz. Blank screen. Precision X can OC it to 120hz but I just can't boot with it. Booting at 96hz is fine though. For some reason, safe mode with low resolution doesn't work. Does anyone have the same problem? Any suggestions?


I use CRU with nvidia control panel settings together that is what works best for me. I use precision to unlock the resolutions then copy the settings over from Nvidia Control panel to CRU everything exact for each settings number by number.

I found that windows like when I do this and games also will detect the resolution this way that would otherwise not see the resolution. And with doing it this way it will all work fine without test mode.

Put the 96hz resolution at the top of the list on CRU.


----------



## JDMfanatic

Green-sum lowered the price of the monitor to 269!!! what a deal... dream-seller still hasnt shipped my monitor and offered me a refund so I may just take my money to green-sum... i paid something like 285$ hahaha


----------



## Bludge

Is their any advantage paying the extra $30 or $40 for a Pixel Perfect from green-sum?


----------



## Edrahil

Hey guys,

I am thinking about getting one of these monitors but there are a few questions that I need answered first;
- does multi input (+HDMI,D-SUB) limit OCablity in any way? Does it have any disadvantage or slow them down in any way?
- if I use my notebook and connect it with these displays via HDMI, would 1080p content scale normally,
or would it be letterboxed? Eg: trying to watch a movie from my notebook/tablet (GTX 555m/Tegra3 if it matters).

thankies


----------



## Ricey20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edrahil*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am thinking about getting one of these monitors but there are a few questions that I need answered first;
> - does multi input (+HDMI,D-SUB) limit OCablity in any way? Does it have any disadvantage or slow them down in any way?
> - if I use my notebook and connect it with these displays via HDMI, would 1080p content scale normally,
> or would it be letterboxed? Eg: trying to watch a movie from my notebook/tablet (GTX 555m/Tegra3 if it matters).
> 
> thankies


1. Multi Input monitors have increased input lag and they don't OC very well either (around 65-70hz usually, if at all). So I wouldn't recommend it for FPS gaming if you were even the slightest bit sensitive to input lag.

2. If you connect it to your notebook u should be able to configure scaling through your video card. You can set it to scale or to have borders. For the tablet, I think it would scale but not sure how it would look. Haven't tried hooking up the tablet to a 1440p monitor before since I just use the PC.


----------



## jcm27

So just overclocked mines today and all the flash videos(YouTube) are just showing a green screen, anyone know how to fix this?


----------



## uio77

I received yesterday my X-star matte version pixel perfect. They shipped it without any additional protective cover nor bubble wrap; only the plain box. As expected, the box has a bump in one on the corners and one of the front side was smashed. After taking the monitor out has no damage at all.
The screen is, indeed, pixel perfect. Small light bleed from the top but nothing major, easily overclocked to 110Hz; I saw vertical lines when I tried 120Hz. Compared to my Asus VS247H-P, color is much more defined and the image is more accurate and bright. The time response is the same or above the Asus; that is 2ms. Definitely, it is way better for gaming than the Dell U2713HM that I returned because gaming was like seen a slide view presentation. Very happy with this screen.


----------



## Edrahil

Thanks a lot for the info, I guess then it would be better to aim for a bypass model and ignore those extra ports.


----------



## Swolern

DVI-D is the only connection a PC enthusiast / gamer should need anyways. Agreed its a great gaming monitor.









At least until 4k is affordable @ 120hz!


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricey20*
> 
> 1. Multi Input monitors have increased input lag and they don't OC very well either (around 65-70hz usually, if at all). So I wouldn't recommend it for FPS gaming if you were even the slightest bit sensitive to input lag.
> 
> 2. If you connect it to your notebook u should be able to configure scaling through your video card. You can set it to scale or to have borders. For the tablet, I think it would scale but not sure how it would look. Haven't tried hooking up the tablet to a 1440p monitor before since I just use the PC.


Asus VH236H has HDMI/DVI/VGA inputs and is tested to have under 1 frame or under 16ms of input lag. I'm not sure where the correlation between multi input and input lag is coming from.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcm27*
> 
> So just overclocked mines today and all the flash videos(YouTube) are just showing a green screen, anyone know how to fix this?


Turn off hardware accel in the flash plug in options.


----------



## exzacklyright

The $269 price just influenced me to order one... hopefully there's no defects. o.o


----------



## mucinex1029

Where are you seeing a $265 QX2710?
Ah, nevermind - found it! Great!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I seriously can't believe they have *dropped* in price. They have only gotten *more* popular and look at what happened with IPS prices before. Despite not being able to OC they were hovering around $400 on eBay before these PLS hit and ones that could do 120Hz were like $800-1000.


----------



## khernik2

Does that korean monitor is already ok to use when you get it? How about all these IPS glows, BLB etc? I don't know about monitors, I wouldnt know what to do (and definitely wouldnt open it up and fix that myself) when this new monitor would have white glows all around, or messed up colors and things like that









Oh, and I almost forgot - I need the screen as matte as possible, glossy is a mirror in my room. Do they happen to do things like sending glossy screen instead of the matte?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khernik2*
> 
> Does that korean monitor is already ok to use when you get it? How about all these IPS glows, BLB etc? I don't know about monitors, I wouldnt know what to do (and definitely wouldnt open it up and fix that myself) when this new monitor would have white glows all around, or messed up colors and things like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I almost forgot - I need the screen as matte as possible, glossy is a mirror in my room. Do they happen to do things like sending glossy screen instead of the matte?


No the colors (and contrast ratio) are generally really good and can be made better with ICC profiles from other users with these displays. Some do have some back light bleed so do some Asus and Dells. It can be fixed but does requiring opening it generally.

And yeah some people have reported that they got the wrong type based on what they ordered but it is not a common occurance. If you are in the States you should look at ipsledmonitors.com. Stand behind their units and have warranty etc not requiring you to return it to Korea.


----------



## GuyHersh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> Is their any advantage paying the extra $30 or $40 for a Pixel Perfect from green-sum?


I did spring for the pixel perfect from green-sum, but it's hard to say if its just a marketing ploy or if they actually test it. I bought it on Thursday 25th, and received it Monday the 29th.

For what its worth, mine did end up having 0 dead pixels, and fairly minimal back light bleed. If $30 doesn't break the bank for you and if it makes you feel more comfortable for it to potentially be perfect, I'd say go for it.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> Is their any advantage paying the extra $30 or $40 for a Pixel Perfect from green-sum?


FWIW I ordered the pixel-perfect monitor from green-sum and I can't see any dead pixels and there is almost no backlight bleed (basically none).


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bludge*
> 
> Is their any advantage paying the extra $30 or $40 for a Pixel Perfect from green-sum?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuyHersh*
> 
> I did spring for the pixel perfect from green-sum, *but it's hard to say if its just a marketing ploy or if they actually test it*.


This thread just goes in circles over and over again but I guess that's because it's attracting a lot of people that have never been to OCN. Even so it's simple forum edict to at least read through the first post...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Q: Is it worth it to buy a pixel perfect monitor?
> A: No. All evidence as of now suggests that probability of receiving a monitor with no or little dead pixels is random, even if purchasing a 'pixel perfect' monitor. It seems that it is a marketing ploy for them to get more money.


Not to mention this has been discussed in probably about 50% of the 502 pages that we currently have.

Also if you look closely at a lot of the "pixel perfect" monitors they can still have a policy that allows you to have a "flawless" monitor with up to 5 dead pixels. Pixel policy listed within the sellers description is what you really need to look for.

For example the monitor I got for $285 from accessorieswhole only allowed for up to 3 dead pixels.


----------



## ronquilent

I hope the price going down is only a sign of increased demand and even greater supply + competition and NOT the fact that he sold his best monitors first (pixel perfect/BLB-wise) and now is left to sell the ones in the worst condition.

It seems like it might be the latter because of "Limited quantity available".


----------



## ColdFlo

I think what many of you are reporting as dead pixels is actually just dust inbetween the outer surface and the actual panel and is most likely fixable but not if your a tech noob and are scared of opening the case(this is an overclocking forum after all). Remember when you first got a PC and you were scared to take the side door off and look inside thats what I hear when you are all scared to fix your black light bleed or cant tell the difference between a dead pixel or some dust and just need to get in there and blow some air on it. If its a pixel its going to have the definite dead pixel shape its gonna look exactly like one dead pixel in a grid its not gonna be some big blurry shape thats shrouding 10 pixels first of all that shape is bigger than a pixel and with a dead pixel its either stuck on or stuck off its not gonna be inbetween(at least individual color pixels) this is the kind of thinking that if you had thought about what you were observing would lead you to the conclusion its just dust.

Also matte vs glossy, matte really tones and pastels the colors and makes them all wrong the right approach is the old sony one with a glossy anti glare coating that made the panel slightly darker but kept it nice and clear while also providing anti-glare like i got on this sony gdm-f900. Yeah I'm probably the only one this QNIX is gonna be a step down for me in quality but its still the best of lesser LCD technology for the price. So glossy with an antiglare coating is the way to go for me I wonder if its possible to spray one on or do they still sell those anti glare films you can just cut and put on there? Still I think the best solution is just to shutter your room and buy some curtains. Glossy is the only way to go because thats the way the monitor is supposed to look not all pastel and hazy looking. Im not installing sweetfx to get rid of all that horrible directx fog just to add it on my monitor afterwards.

Also HDMI is a flawed concept dvi is definitely the way to go(more wires no audio(audio requires more power more interference) and if your going to get a cable with data on it you probably want silver plated copper wires. I know everyone is gonna tell me its bs and buy monoprice but I think this is finally the example that is completely killing you computer weenies its digital it either works or it doesnt argument because the cable is having a direct effect to the oc-ability of this monitor.

Silver requires less energy because it has a stronger electron sea thats why its so shiny and the most conductive metal known. It also does wonders in the analog world which is a superior science because it requires a higher degree of manufacturing. It was because analog failed in its early days because we didnt have the manufacturing technology that digital was created as a workaround in telephone aka telecommunications because its easier to transmit a digital signal and then re assemble an analog copy down the line and amplify that then to try to amplify and maintain the signal integrity of an analog signal over extreme distances but if you could pull it off with analog techniques you would have a higher level of skill and basically be a god of electrical design tho even today it may still not be possible.

Digital is an easier to manage lesser more controlled technique(a workaround, let that sit on your chest some) that ultimately creates a less refined signal because its not a smooth natural curvy wave its a system of locks switching back and forth. I switched out my sata 2 cable for sata 3 and my hdd performance improved(digital weenies can never explain this which will always lead them to attack and say its just placebo effect and your making it up yet they cant tell you the exact mechanism of any chip involved). There are audio guys that say switching out the sata cable changes the way audio sounds played back in your pc even THX engineers have said this very same thing yet cnet and every computer weenie its digital moron has tried to pound it into the ground.

Also seems to me that maybe the thicker monoprice cables are too much copper and may be attenuating the signal too much copper to drive up and down for the given source that's why many experience poor results(if this isnt the reason then it must be inferior construction). The electricity flows on the outside of the wire so you want slow drawn wire in a hydrogen atmosphere(got this from george cardas) so that the outer surface is smooth because wire drawn in oxygen drawn quickly as most manufacturers do to make a cheap product will cause cracking on the surface which will scatter electrons flowing along its length creating noise and influencing higher rates of signaling. Think about this if CAT wire such as cat6 tops out at 600mhz and we are talking about belden some of the best networking wire in the world then to what spec does your sata 3 cable need to be designed to handle 600MB/s 600x8mhz at least or the spec of your dvi cable all be it with lower signalling bandwidth but many more conductors all tightly bunched together with very little shielding.

I did enjoy the plastidip post finally some real information which has lacked allot in this thread. Oh well back to the bourgeois braggers(10 words or less posters) about how great they are for buying a monitor and the wussies scared to crack the case to fix their back light bleed(also scared to overclock and how smart is it to oc a panel that seems to artifact at 110hz just short of 120hz without opening the panel and putting some heatsinks or possibly fans also on the inside to cool the chips that are rendering that dvi signal? before you add heat and cause it to artifact seems to me cooling these chips would be of paramount concern but no one even thinks about this which i find funny) but they are so happy with their purchase(fake bourgeois patting themselves on the back and probably lying about how many dead pixels they have).


----------



## exzacklyright

What dvi cables are people generally buying with this monitor? Or are most using the one that came with it?

Here's an amazon DVI link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/electronics/202506011/ref=pd_zg_hrsr_e_2_6_last


----------



## wntrsnowg

There is another post on slickdeals about the qnix for $269 like someone posted above. Prepare for the wave of noooobssss who wont read the op!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> This thread just goes in circles over and over again but I guess that's because it's attracting a lot of people that have never been to OCN. Even so it's simple forum edict to at least read through the first post...
> Not to mention this has been discussed in probably about 50% of the 502 pages that we currently have.
> 
> Also if you look closely at a lot of the "pixel perfect" monitors they can still have a policy that allows you to have a "flawless" monitor with up to 5 dead pixels. Pixel policy listed within the sellers description is what you really need to look for.
> 
> For example the monitor I got for $285 from accessorieswhole only allowed for up to 3 dead pixels.


I bought my none pixel perfect from Hulustar with a 2 dead pixel promotion.. I got zero dead pixels and very minimal BLB.. Glad I didn't buy a perfect pixel cause they were $70 more 3 months ago when I got mine..


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> ...most of the block of text snipped due to ranting..
> 
> ...putting some heatsinks or possibly fans also on the inside to cool the chips that are rendering that dvi signal? before you add heat and cause it to artifact seems to me cooling these chips would be of paramount concern but no one even thinks about this which i find funny)


Actually this has been discussed, but honestly isn't the problem, the chips or panel don't get hot (at least my 3 debezelled qnix's don't) The "lack" of 120hz for everyone is simply that not every panel is capable, silicon lotto, no different than anything we OC.

Have you opened your qnix?


----------



## Neutronman

A huge amount of information here guys. I need some help please of some of you that have more experience with these monitors.
Currently I have been gaming at 2560x1440 on a 27in Dell Ultrasharp monitor and have noticed some ghosting. I have a pair of GTX 670's so I am able to get higher than 60hz refresh.

I've been eying these overclockable monitors but unsure of the make and model to buy and from whom.

Can someone please help me here by giving me simple advice on the make and model that makes most sense as well as most reliable ebay seller?

Thanks,


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neutronman*
> 
> A huge amount of information here guys. I need some help please of some of you that have more experience with these monitors.
> Currently I have been gaming at 2560x1440 on a 27in Dell Ultrasharp monitor and have noticed some ghosting. I have a pair of GTX 670's so I am able to get higher than 60hz refresh.
> 
> I've been eying these overclockable monitors but unsure of the make and model to buy and from whom.
> 
> Can someone please help me here by giving me simple advice on the make and model that makes most sense as well as most reliable ebay seller?
> 
> Thanks,


HERE

(okay maybe ColdFlo has a point about people not even bothering to read for themselves, lol)


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neutronman*
> 
> A huge amount of information here guys. I need some help please of some of you that have more experience with these monitors.
> Currently I have been gaming at 2560x1440 on a 27in Dell Ultrasharp monitor and have noticed some ghosting. I have a pair of GTX 670's so I am able to get higher than 60hz refresh.
> 
> I've been eying these overclockable monitors but unsure of the make and model to buy and from whom.
> 
> Can someone please help me here by giving me simple advice on the make and model that makes most sense as well as most reliable ebay seller?
> 
> Thanks,


Go to the OP, look at "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" and below that, the expandable section "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis (Click to hide)"

There you will see that the qnix is purchased the most, and some top sellers are hulustar, dream-seller, green-sum, excellentcastle, etc..

Also, the only models relevant to this thread are the Qnix qx2710 and the X-star dp2710.


----------



## mucinex1029

120Hz means I'll be able to "notice a difference" in games up to 120 FPS right? So "120 FPS is the new 60 FPS"?


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mucinex1029*
> 
> ... So "120 FPS is the new 60 FPS"?


I'm not sure what you mean by this. 60fps ≠ 120fps.


----------



## Droogie

I'm putting my Asus up for sale on Craigslist today. Once it sells, I'll be ordering one of these.

Should I go glossy or matte? I have glossy now, and my room is dark enough that it doesn't bother me. IIRC, glossy helps a bit with picture clarity, doesn't it?


----------



## Neutronman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Go to the OP, look at "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" and below that, the expandable section "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis (Click to hide)"
> 
> There you will see that the qnix is purchased the most, and some top sellers are hulustar, dream-seller, green-sum, excellentcastle, etc..
> 
> Also, the only models relevant to this thread are the Qnix qx2710 and the X-star dp2710.


Thanks,


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I'm putting my Asus up for sale on Craigslist today. Once it sells, I'll be ordering one of these.
> 
> Should I go glossy or matte? I have glossy now, and my room is dark enough that it doesn't bother me. IIRC, glossy helps a bit with picture clarity, doesn't it?


I have 3 matte qnix, and one of the 27" monoprice panels, glossy... comparing both, I know they are not apples/apples one being IPS, and the others PLS... but.. I am very happy with the qnix matte. It is actually semi-gloss compared to the horrible anti-glare coating of a dell 27" I used to use at work.

It is clear, and colorful, but with less reflections. I was on the fence too... but honestly the semi-gloss matte the qnix uses is awesome (best I have seen actually, and I usually always go for glossy). The only thing the the glossy version on this monitor is better for in my eyes is blacker blacks under certain conditions, and more reflections.


----------



## Coree

I'm getting burn-in even at 80 hz with the stock cable -.-
Is this OC very weak with the stock cable lol. Would changing it solve the burn-in problem?


----------



## Neutronman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> HERE
> 
> (okay maybe ColdFlo has a point about people not even bothering to read for themselves, lol)


Yeah, great link, very helpful. Guess what, I started reading at page 1 and read through to page 18. Shame I don't have time to read through 500 plus pages. I was hoping that some of the guys with experience would be able to pass it on instead of providing snarky comments about reading the thread. I thought the whole point of communities like these were to provide helpful insights for less experienced members???


----------



## Neutronman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForceD*
> 
> I have 3 matte qnix, and one of the 27" monoprice panels, glossy... comparing both, I know they are not apples/apples one being IPS, and the others PLS... but.. I am very happy with the qnix matte. It is actually semi-gloss compared to the horrible anti-glare coating of a dell 27" I used to use at work.
> 
> It is clear, and colorful, but with less reflections. I was on the fence too... but honestly the semi-gloss matte the qnix uses is awesome (best I have seen actually, and I usually always go for glossy). The only thing the the glossy version on this monitor is better for in my eyes is blacker blacks under certain conditions, and more reflections.


Now that's good information.


----------



## mucinex1029

I mean, if on a 60Hz monitor, I'll need to run games at 60FPS to have it run fluidly (and there's a difference between 20 and 40 FPS, but not between say 80 and 100), on an 120Hz monitor, I'll notice a difference up to 120Hz (where there's a difference between, say, 80 and 110 FPS, but not 125 and 150 FPS)?


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I bought my none pixel perfect from Hulustar with a 2 dead pixel promotion.. I got zero dead pixels and very minimal BLB.. Glad I didn't buy a perfect pixel cause they were $70 more 3 months ago when I got mine..


Yup mine was not labeled as "pixel perfect" and my monitor was in fact pixel perfect. I was just pointing out the fact that it had already been established that pixel perfect means nothing and you still run the chance of getting dead/stuck pixels. With that in mind it's best to go with a seller that advertises the smallest amount of dead/stuck pixels. That way you can always return it if it's a big issue.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mucinex1029*
> 
> I mean, if on a 60Hz monitor, I'll need to run games at 60FPS to have it run fluidly (and there's a difference between 20 and 40 FPS, but not between say 80 and 100), on an 120Hz monitor, I'll notice a difference up to 120Hz (where there's a difference between, say, 80 and 110 FPS, but not 125 and 150 FPS)?


It's really dependent on the person. Some people don't really notice the difference between 60hz and 120hz. I'd say most people can't tell the difference between 96hz and 120hz. If you used to use a CRT monitor back in the day and would run high refresh rates because you noticed less flicker, then you would most certainly benefit from one of these monitors. If not, it would probably be worth trying to find someone with a 120hz monitor so you can see for yourself before buying.


----------



## Droogie

I love my 120hz monitor. The ONLY reason I want to go to one of these is resolution. This thing has the best color reproduction of any TN I've seen. It's really a great monitor, and I can't go back to 60hz. Even regular windows browsing is night and day with 120hz compared to 60hz.

That's why I'm still a little worried about buying one. Maybe I'll try and find a proven clocker.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Yup mine was not labeled as "pixel perfect" and my monitor was in fact pixel perfect. I was just pointing out the fact that it had already been established that pixel perfect means nothing and you still run the chance of getting dead/stuck pixels. With that in mind it's best to go with a seller that advertises the smallest amount of dead/stuck pixels. That way you can always return it if it's a big issue.


I agree bud..


----------



## Droogie

What's the benefit of ordering from Korea instead of that site that sells from California? Prices seem roughly the same, and a return to Cali should be a lot easier from the Continental US, shouldn't it?


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> What's the benefit of ordering from Korea instead of that site that sells from California? Prices seem roughly the same, and a return to Cali should be a lot easier from the Continental US, shouldn't it?


Everything comes from Korea anyways so it doesn't matter. For example people ordering from ipsledmonitors.com which is based in Cali are still reporting that their shipments are coming from Korea.


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Everything comes from Korea anyways so it doesn't matter. For example people ordering from ipsledmonitors.com which is based in Cali are still reporting that their shipments are coming from Korea.


Ahh, I just figured return/warranty issues would be easier handled from a US based site.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mucinex1029*
> 
> 120Hz means I'll be able to "notice a difference" in games up to 120 FPS right? So "120 FPS is the new 60 FPS"?


No the most fluidity and smoothness (the "difference") would be best perceived at frames about matching the refresh rate. So if you are running at 120Hz and only pushing 50 FPS there is no real "difference" at all from playing at 60Hz. None of this is exactly written in stone though starting with the fact that some don't perceive such as well or as much as others to begin with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Ahh, I just figured return/warranty issues would be easier handled from a US based site.


Yes that is the main benefit. Shipping back to Korea is expensive and a pain so the sellers really try to avoid it any way possible incl. trying to scam the shipping company. Here you just ship back to Cali and the IPSLED guys deal with Korea, I guess.

This company is also "another set of eyes" checking these things out before they sell too I figure. Though I suppose they might not hook up every single one first.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neutronman*
> 
> Yeah, great link, very helpful. Guess what, I started reading at page 1 and read through to page 18. Shame I don't have time to read through 500 plus pages. I was hoping that some of the guys with experience would be able to pass it on instead of providing snarky comments about reading the thread. I thought the whole point of communities like these were to provide helpful insights for less experienced members???


I think his point was to get you to read the first post, not flip through and skim through this thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> What's the benefit of ordering from Korea instead of that site that sells from California? Prices seem roughly the same, and a return to Cali should be a lot easier from the Continental US, shouldn't it?


30% difference in price is not roughly the same.

The benefit is having the peace of mind that if you dislike your monitor for any reason whatsoever, you can return it for free + free return shipping.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> Everything comes from Korea anyways so it doesn't matter. For example people ordering from ipsledmonitors.com which is based in Cali are still reporting that their shipments are coming from Korea.


it matters if you want the ability to return a monitor. there was a pretty long thread on someone who got a DOA monitor from green-sum, green-sums solution: blame the shipping company. to me that is a big deal if you can't return a bad monitor


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes that is the main benefit. Shipping back to Korea is expensive and a pain so the sellers really try to avoid it any way possible incl. trying to scam the shipping company. Here you just ship back to Cali and the IPSLED guys deal with Korea, I guess.
> 
> This company is also "another set of eyes" checking these things out before they sell too I figure. Though I suppose they might not hook up every single one first.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> it matters if you want the ability to return a monitor. there was a pretty long thread on someone who got a DOA monitor from green-sum, green-sums solution: blame the shipping company. to me that is a big deal if you can't return a bad monitor


Ahh yes for return shipping I guess that is true.


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> What's the benefit of ordering from Korea instead of that site that sells from California? Prices seem roughly the same, and a return to Cali should be a lot easier from the Continental US, shouldn't it?


Korea is $60 cheaper


----------



## wrigleyvillain

That's a "not outrageous" premium IMO; they have to make something to stay in business. For the further peace of mind at the very least. Chances are likely a little better you'll get one in great shape too.


----------



## viwe649

I don't like it when people ask the same questions over and over again,especially when the answers to their questions are on the OP! It makes the forum boring to read. Before i got the monitor i was almost everyday on this forum but now,i don't know man,it's just like people posting the same things!


----------



## muscleking

i just saw the $269 from ebay while i was browsing this morning. 445 sold when i got mine. now 480 sold after 3 hours. from green-sum.
i didn't know anything about PLS just saw the monitor at that price and got it. i was waiting for these 27 inch to drop below 280. only after i bought i realized it's new technology and semi matte and semi glossy. i was like: oh right on.

had a catleap and sold to friend. this one will be for my mom because she likes to save files on desktop. so running out of space on an 21 inch. need to buy a new monitor and here it is. lol.


----------



## jrcbandit

I got mine from ipsledmonitors for peace of mind for returns. I already had to deal with a bright green stuck pixel in the center of my screen for my Crossover 27 in model that I couldn't return. My Xstar seems nearly perfect, although it looks like there may be a dust particle in lower right near the edge of the screen - it looks almost like a gray stuck pixel except it doesn't seem uniform enough to be a pixel.

How bad are the distortions for "bad" panels at 120 hz? I tried and during gaming, sometimes a white scan line would appear for a fraction of a second in specific menus. I put it back to 100 Hz. 110 Hz seemed like there was allot of color banding, but no scan lines.

Finally, my monitor seems to be missing when setting color profiles. It used to be there before I plugged in my Crossover as a 2nd monitor, now it only gives the option to set it for the crossover. What can I do?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I love my 120hz monitor. The ONLY reason I want to go to one of these is resolution. This thing has the best color reproduction of any TN I've seen. It's really a great monitor, and I can't go back to 60hz. Even regular windows browsing is night and day with 120hz compared to 60hz.
> 
> That's why I'm still a little worried about buying one. Maybe I'll try and find a proven clocker.


Since no-one seems to have answered this particular question:

Unless your current 120Hz TN is Lightboost, you won't notice the slight difference in motion blur. All have gotten to at least 96Hz, it's quite likely with tweaking it'll go >105Hz, at which point I doubt you'll see a difference against 120Hz.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Since no-one seems to have answered this particular question:
> 
> Unless your current 120Hz TN is Lightboost, you won't notice the slight difference in motion blur. All have gotten to at least 96Hz, it's quite likely with tweaking it'll go >105Hz, at which point I doubt you'll see a difference against 120Hz.


Good info but if you search lightboost in this thread you can find this answered around 7 times.

EDIT: This is gone over very well on this page http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3440


----------



## Sempre

when will 1440p content be available? so far 1080p video looks blurry in this screen


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No one buys 1440p primarily to watch videos. To answer your question--never. That's what games are for.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No one buys 1440p primarily to watch videos. To answer your question--never. That's what games are for.


Yea but you can watch 1440p content on youtube. You will notice that in some videos under quality selection you see "Original" listed above 1080p which is in fact 1440p. This is almost always from some kind of screen capture though be it gaming or whatever.

But you are pretty much right. In movie and video terms 4k is the next step after 1080p.. Now 4k will defiantly look a whole lot better than 1080p on your 1440p monitor. Sadly from what I can tell there is no real 4k media out other than remsatered versions of blurays which isn't really 4k.

Anyone know of any 4k content out yet?


----------



## RemagCP

These monitors will always be in stock as long as Apple and Samsung are still getting rid of their B+/B- monitors, correct?

So in about a month I wonder if you will be able to get these for $250?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> These monitors will always be in stock as long as Apple and Samsung are still getting rid of their B+/B- monitors, correct?
> 
> So in about a month I wonder if you will be able to get these for $250?


It'd probably be a lot more even if we get knockoff 4K monitors - I'd imagine the panels are very expensive to produce.

Timescapes is in 4K, and some youtube stuff is 1440p. I think IMAX movies are 4K too, but I don't think the 4K versions are available to buy.


----------



## exzacklyright

Has anyone tried these cables?

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-P560-015-Cable-DVI-D/product-reviews/B0027JPM4G/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1


----------



## Ricey20

Haven't tried the Tripp Lite cables. Their power stuff is pretty good though and didn't even know they made cables. From what I can see it's 30AWG so might be similar to the one included with the monitor.

Personally I'm using https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi-cables/index.htm
It's 24AWG like the monoprice. My monoprice gives me about 115hz, the BJC i can hit 128hz. YMMV.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well that's interesting; I've never noticed above 1080 on YouTube but I don't really watch many videos online. There is some 1440P video/movie/something or other that people linked to once in this thread.


----------



## exzacklyright

So wait ... what do we need to order with this monitor? A power cable?

random korean video I found:





2 people have made videos of it not turning on anymore. Any ideas?


----------



## Apinchof

After two major components dying on my computer, I finally was able to get this monitor to work
I was looking to spend only 600 dollars between the GPU and monitor, the sapphire 7970 was such a good deal I couldn't pass it up at $330.

I bought the cheapest Matte, good dead pixel, monitor that I could which was the qnix from Green-Sum

Deadpixels: None
Black Light Bleeding: there's a small amount on the sides. I rarely watch anything with all the lights off though, so it's hardly noticeable

It's very nice quality and I'm glad I got it..


----------



## Droogie

I might be holding off for a while. Some idiot decided to get behind the wheel after drinking, and hit my car parked in the driveway today. Totalled my car, and both of my roommate's cars. Luckily, nobody was hurt. She was doing 55 in a 30, and never hit the brakes. I might have to invest in a new car, depending on what the insurance payout is.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I might be holding off for a while. Some idiot decided to get behind the wheel after drinking, and hit my car parked in the driveway today. Totalled my car, and both of my roommate's cars. Luckily, nobody was hurt. She was doing 55 in a 30, and never hit the brakes. I might have to invest in a new car, depending on what the insurance payout is.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tell insurance you had a brand new Qnix in the trunk that you want replaced..









Hope all goes well with that bud..


----------



## RemagCP

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I might be holding off for a while. Some idiot decided to get behind the wheel after drinking, and hit my car parked in the driveway today. Totalled my car, and both of my roommate's cars. Luckily, nobody was hurt. She was doing 55 in a 30, and never hit the brakes. I might have to invest in a new car, depending on what the insurance payout is.






Wow dude that really sucks, hope the process goes smooth.


----------



## wntrsnowg

talk about a setback! Sorry to see that happen... and I hear those srt4's are pretty fast too


----------



## lukelev07

Hey guys! I have an Asus Radeon 7870 video card and was looking to purchase this monitor since the price on ebay dropped significantly.

One question. my video card has a DVI-I port on the back. The pins go all the way though, its not two sections. Will I be able to use this monitor with my current video card?


----------



## Shock96

Has anyone just hooked up the screen and used it at the standard 60mhz while gaming? I am curious to see a pic of ghosting and see how bad it really is if at all.

I currently use a Dell 2405 and it has been great. I don't see any ghosting or anything. I got a feeling that I won't notice any issues.

I did read this whooooole thread but nothing seemed to cover it. But of course I was getting pretty bleary eyed at page 300 or so.









To Lukelev07 - I believe that it requires DVI-D,


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukelev07*
> 
> Hey guys! I have an Asus Radeon 7870 video card and was looking to purchase this monitor since the price on ebay dropped significantly.
> 
> One question. my video card has a DVI-I port on the back. The pins go all the way though, its not two sections. Will I be able to use this monitor with my current video card?


DVI-I and DVI-D both pass the digital signal and therefore are equivalent for use with this monitor.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukelev07*
> 
> Hey guys! I have an Asus Radeon 7870 video card and was looking to purchase this monitor since the price on ebay dropped significantly.
> 
> One question. my video card has a DVI-I port on the back. The pins go all the way though, its not two sections. Will I be able to use this monitor with my current video card?


Yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shock96*
> 
> Has anyone just hooked up the screen and used it at the standard 60mhz while gaming? I am curious to see a pic of ghosting and see how bad it really is if at all.
> 
> I currently use a Dell 2405 and it has been great. I don't see any ghosting or anything. I got a feeling that I won't notice any issues.
> 
> I did read this whooooole thread but nothing seemed to cover it. But of course I was getting pretty bleary eyed at page 300 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To Lukelev07 - I believe that it requires DVI-D,


It would be very hard for someone to take a moving shot of a game's motion to compare. You have to see 120Hz to know the difference. Its like having a 1080p monitor. You think it looks great until you see a 1440p.

Here is a great explanation of motion blur between 60hz, 120hz, and 120hz Lightboost. http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/60vs120vslb/


----------



## jokrik

Just wanna confirm, I see alot of QNIX on ebay even from the same seller
I'm planning to buy from greensum
Am I choosing the right one from this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111073520913?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I wanna get a perfect pixel one and heard its better to get the matte than the glossy
am I right? I dont wanna buy the wrong one since the return policy is just a hustle


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Just wanna confirm, I see alot of QNIX on ebay even from the same seller
> I'm planning to buy from greensum
> Am I choosing the right one from this?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/111073520913?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> I wanna get a perfect pixel one and heard its better to get the matte than the glossy
> am I right? I dont wanna buy the wrong one since the return policy is just a hustle


Yup looks like the right one to me. I also bought from GreenSum but I bought the glossy pixel perfect. People say that pixel perfect is a waste of the $20 or so, but I'd disagree, it's good insurance and good for your peace of mind. Got mine over a week ago and noticed I had 40 or so pixels that wouldn't display the green colors and some grays, and GreenSum was quick to allow me to return it, now I just gotta wait til they mail me a replacement.


----------



## jcm27

I can notice the screen getting darker when I put the screen to 120hz, and even with the same ICC profile(asus v3 one) it just doesnt look the same.
Anyone know how to get it to look the same on 120hz than it would on 60/96hz using the same profile?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcm27*
> 
> I can notice the screen getting darker when I put the screen to 120hz, and even with the same ICC profile(asus v3 one) it just doesnt look the same.
> Anyone know how to get it to look the same on 120hz than it would on 60/96hz using the same profile?


The only way to help is to reduce your pixel clock somehow. Like using LCD reduced timings.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Yup looks like the right one to me. I also bought from GreenSum but I bought the glossy pixel perfect. People say that pixel perfect is a waste of the $20 or so, but I'd disagree, it's good insurance and good for your peace of mind. Got mine over a week ago and noticed I had 40 or so pixels that wouldn't display the green colors and some grays, and GreenSum was quick to allow me to return it, now I just gotta wait til they mail me a replacement.


Thx for the info, would get it asap


----------



## Coree

Does changing the stock DVI cable help reduce burn-in? Getting some burn in on the top right corner @ 80hz with the stock cable!


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Just wanna confirm, I see alot of QNIX on ebay even from the same seller
> I'm planning to buy from greensum
> Am I choosing the right one from this?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/111073520913?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> *I wanna get a perfect pixel one* and heard its better to get the matte than the glossy
> am I right? I dont wanna buy the wrong one since the return policy is just a hustle


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Yup looks like the right one to me. I also bought from GreenSum but I bought the glossy pixel perfect. *People say that pixel perfect is a waste of the $20 or so, but I'd disagree, it's good insurance and good for your peace of mind.* Got mine over a week ago and noticed I had 40 or so pixels that wouldn't display the green colors and some grays, and GreenSum was quick to allow me to return it, now I just gotta wait til they mail me a replacement.












I just went into detail about this barley even a day ago...

Again let me repeat myself (along with the OP). PIXEL PERFECT DOESN'T MEAN JACK... The sellers pixel policy is what you really wan't to look for if you are worried about returning a monitor if it comes with a few dead pixels.

*GREENSUM'S "PIXEL PERFECT" MONITORS ALLOW UP TO 6 DEAD PIXELS!!!*

If you scroll down in that listing you have linked you see that this is shown very clearly. My monitor was not labeled "pixel perfect" and yet the seller (accessorieswhole) only allowed up to 3 dead pixels and some do even less (and it was in fact pixel perfect). Even so my monitor was $280 when purchased a few weeks ago while all the "pixel perfect" ones were $50+ more.

It's a marketing gimmick and pretty much the definition of false advertisement.


----------



## SinfulRoad

And if you look over at the non pixel perfect listing you'd see the same image...


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> And if you look over at the non pixel perfect listing you'd see the same image...


Exactly. As I and many others have said over and over again, pixel perfect doesn't mean anything except paying more $. There is a reason that is listed in the start of the FAQ in the OP.


----------



## moonshine6456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricey20*
> 
> Haven't tried the Tripp Lite cables. Their power stuff is pretty good though and didn't even know they made cables. From what I can see it's 30AWG so might be similar to the one included with the monitor.
> 
> Personally I'm using https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi-cables/index.htm
> It's 24AWG like the monoprice. My monoprice gives me about 115hz, the BJC i can hit 128hz. YMMV.


Anyone else have recommendations? I currently have the monoprice one, and its very thick and can barely bend


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just went into detail about this barley even a day ago...
> 
> Again let me repeat myself (along with the OP). PIXEL PERFECT DOESN'T MEAN JACK... The sellers pixel policy is what you really wan't to look for if you are worried about returning a monitor if it comes with a few dead pixels.
> 
> *GREENSUM'S "PIXEL PERFECT" MONITORS ALLOW UP TO 6 DEAD PIXELS!!!*
> 
> If you scroll down in that listing you have linked you see that this is shown very clearly. My monitor was not labeled "pixel perfect" and yet the seller (accessorieswhole) only allowed up to 3 dead pixels and some do even less (and it was in fact pixel perfect). Even so my monitor was $280 when purchased a few weeks ago while all the "pixel perfect" ones were $50+ more.
> 
> It's a marketing gimmick and pretty much the definition of false advertisement.


Thats a very usefull info
I realize greensum sells a perfect pixel one but the policy still states that it allows 6 dead pixels as you said, while accessorieswhole guarantee there are no dead pixel on the perfect pixel option
very interesting warranty unless greensum put wrong information on the perfect pixel option


----------



## mucinex1029

How serious of an issue is image retention at 96Hz?

Is the guide in the OP the best way to overclock? Does it keep the "Test Mode" text on your screen(s)? Does it stick with restarts?


----------



## luisfigueira

Hello everybody,

After all sorry for my english.

I ordered a Qnix 2710 PLS, I received it 5 days after order. Shipped over DHL. Super fast shipping !

I have no dead-pixels but I have a little Black Light Bleeding on top middle. But I only see it if screen is black. So I'm very happy with this screen !

I want to overclock it to 100Hz because I want to try my FPS games with this refresh rate.

But actually I have an issue.

I have a GTX 560 and last drivers 320.49.

I followed the tutorial to overclock but after running NVIDIA Pixel Clock Pather 1.2, I can't change the refresh rate to more than 60Hz. I tried on Windows 7 settings and Nividia Control Panel.

Is this not compatible with my drivers ?

I tried Custom Resolution Utility 1.0 but there seems to be nothing.

Can you help me ?

Thank you very much !


----------



## ShakDiesel

I already have one monitor but i'm deciding on buying 2 more, what's holding me back is if they will work together in nvidia control panel. What I mean is the one I currently own oc to 120Hz now if I enable surround when I get the other 2 how will the refresh rate work? For 120Hz triple display resolution obviously they all have to be at 120Hz but what if some can only do 96Hz can I still run one at a higher refresh rate than the rest with nvidia surround?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luisfigueira*
> 
> Hello everybody,
> 
> After all sorry for my english.
> 
> I ordered a Qnix 2710 PLS, I received it 5 days after order. Shipped over DHL. Super fast shipping !
> 
> I have no dead-pixels but I have a little Black Light Bleeding on top middle. But I only see it if screen is black. So I'm very happy with this screen !
> 
> I want to overclock it to 100Hz because I want to try my FPS games with this refresh rate.
> 
> But actually I have an issue.
> 
> I have a GTX 560 and last drivers 320.49.
> 
> I followed the tutorial to overclock but after running NVIDIA Pixel Clock Pather 1.2, I can't change the refresh rate to more than 60Hz. I tried on Windows 7 settings and Nividia Control Panel.
> 
> Is this not compatible with my drivers ?
> 
> I tried Custom Resolution Utility 1.0 but there seems to be nothing.
> 
> Can you help me ?
> 
> Thank you very much !


I am not an expert on methods of overclocking and maybe some one else can help with that. But a gtx 560 most likely wont be able to hit 100 fps in most modern games. What games are you going to be playing?


----------



## luisfigueira

Yes sur, I'm playing Battlefield2 (2005...) I have 99FPS constantly.

But the monitor is limited to 60 (60Hz) this is why I want to overclock monitor to 100Hz.

Maybe my reasoning is false ?


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mucinex1029*
> 
> How serious of an issue is image retention at 96Hz?
> 
> Is the guide in the OP the best way to overclock? Does it keep the "Test Mode" text on your screen(s)? Does it stick with restarts?



Depends on the luck of the draw. For the most part 96hz seems to be able to perform solidly on the majority of these monitors with no issues.
As far as I know, that's why nothing else is listed there for the time being. The OP is pretty good about updating information as it comes along.
I still have the test mode text and wouldn't mind getting rid of it. Even so it hasn't bothered me enough to worry about looking into it.
Yes. I have never had a issue. It always boots into my 96hz profile along with the color profile I have set for it.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> 
> Depends on the luck of the draw. For the most part 96hz seems to be able to perform solidly on the majority of these monitors with no issues.
> As far as I know, that's why nothing else is listed there for the time being. The OP is pretty good about updating information as it comes along.
> I still have the test mode text and wouldn't mind getting rid of it. Even so it hasn't bothered me enough to worry about looking into it.
> Yes. I have never had a issue. It always boots into my 96hz profile along with the color profile I have set for it.


1. Image retention at 96hx should obviously not be as bad as 120hz however this is going to be varied depending on cable and OC method.

2. There is overclocking methods ALL over this thread. CRU with manual timings(trial and error) seems to be the best. Start with LCD reduced timings and then work your way around.

3. TET MODE IS NO LONGER REQUIRED WITH THE NEWEST PATCH FROM TOASTYX!!! THANK YOU TOASTYX
http://www.overclock.net/t/1414688/to-everyone-who-ocs-their-monitor-test-mode-is-no-longer-required-new-patch-by-toastyx-is-out

4. I don't think there is ANY overclocking methods i have seen where it does not stick. If you use CRU it will definitely stick as it will be a native resolution. Color profiles as well since color management is a stock startup service in the windows registry at all times(only turned off manually or by setting to windows classic or "windows 98 mode")


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luisfigueira*
> 
> Yes sur, I'm playing Battlefield2 (2005...) I have 99FPS constantly.
> 
> But the monitor is limited to 60 (60Hz) this is why I want to overclock monitor to 100Hz.
> 
> Maybe my reasoning is false ?


You should be able to test higher refresh rates after patching your driver by running the nVidia Control Panel, going to the Change Resolution section, and clicking the "Customize..." button. From there you can create custom resolutions and test them out. This is the quickest way to find your maximum monitor overclock.

However, when using this method, these resolutions typically do not work while gaming. Once you find your optimal refresh rate, run the Custom Resolution Utility to create the resolution (make sure the correct monitor is selected in the dropdown!) and uncheck "Include extension block". After rebooting, that resolution should be selectable in the nVidia Control Panel.


----------



## Droogie

Well. Her insurance is giving me the runaround. Geico is going to handle replacing my car for me, and go after her insurance. Their response "We're the largest auto insurance company in the country. Don't you worry, they won't give us the runaround"

This was after me trying to deal with them all day. Legally, they have 30 days to find liability, and after talking to the Florida Insurance Commission, this company will go until the last second before they issue a payout. Geico will have an adjuster here tomorrow, and I should be paid out next week. My payout will be minus the $500 deductable, which they will reclaim as well, and reimburse me.

So, I may be back in the market for one of these. I'm going to go through ipsledmonitors.com just for piece of mind when it comes to returns. 30 day no questions asked guarantee, and no restocking fees. That's worth a premium, for me. That, and they're in the US.


----------



## OneGun

AMD's New frame pacing drivers are out if anyone is interested..

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=380080


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 3. TET MODE IS NO LONGER REQUIRED WITH THE NEWEST PATCH FROM TOASTYX!!! THANK YOU TOASTYX
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1414688/to-everyone-who-ocs-their-monitor-test-mode-is-no-longer-required-new-patch-by-toastyx-is-out


Interesting. I don't see any support for nvidia cards though.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 1. Image retention at 96hx should obviously not be as bad as 120hz however this is going to be varied depending on cable and OC method.
> 
> 2. There is overclocking methods ALL over this thread. CRU with manual timings(trial and error) seems to be the best. Start with LCD reduced timings and then work your way around.
> 
> 3. TET MODE IS NO LONGER REQUIRED WITH THE NEWEST PATCH FROM TOASTYX!!! THANK YOU TOASTYX
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1414688/to-everyone-who-ocs-their-monitor-test-mode-is-no-longer-required-new-patch-by-toastyx-is-out
> 
> 4. I don't think there is ANY overclocking methods i have seen where it does not stick. If you use CRU it will definitely stick as it will be a native resolution. Color profiles as well since color management is a stock startup service in the windows registry at all times(only turned off manually or by setting to windows classic or "windows 98 mode")


Thank you sir..No more test mode rules..


----------



## Droogie

So no nvidia support for that yet?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> So no nvidia support for that yet?


Looks like nVidia was also updated: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

However, I believe you need to re-patch existing drivers if you want to disable test mode. I tried disabling it just now for my previously patched drivers and Windows would not load them anymore.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Looks like nVIdia was also updated: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> However, I believe if you need to re-patch existing drivers if you want to disable test mode. I tried disabling it just now for my previously patched drivers and Windows would not load them anymore.


Thanks, +rep


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Great news. I have not yet OC'd again on my new Windows install; glad I waited.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> You should be able to test higher refresh rates after patching your driver by running the nVidia Control Panel, going to the Change Resolution section, and clicking the "Customize..." button. From there you can create custom resolutions and test them out. This is the quickest way to find your maximum monitor overclock.
> 
> However, when using this method, these resolutions typically do not work while gaming. Once you find your optimal refresh rate, run the Custom Resolution Utility to create the resolution (make sure the correct monitor is selected in the dropdown!) and uncheck "Include extension block". After rebooting, that resolution should be selectable in the nVidia Control Panel.


One detail missed re. CRU config. The higher Hz entry should be on the top of the resolutions list in the main window of CRU (only 60 is there at first) because this is the default Windows will use each boot. Also, do not remove the 60Hz; it needs to be able to revert back to 60 when you update your GPU drivers.

luisfigueira you say you still play BF2--Forgotten Hope 2 by any chance?


----------



## cusinndzl

I've been looking at these sorts of monitors for a couple of years now and finally jumped on the Qnix with a Matte display for $270 which is a pretty amazing deal. I ordered it last night, hopefully it'll arrive early next week.

Along with the monitor I ordered three monitor stands off of Monoprice so that I can get all of my monitors aligned well with higher quality stands. I also ordered three longer dual link DVI-D cables from Amazon.

I currently have 3x HP S2031 monitors which are all at 1600x900 so a total of 4800x900 pixels. I'll swap out the HP monitors with some old ViewSonic 16:10 monitors I have which will match up with the Qnix a little better (they are 1440x900). I'll have a little less horizontal pixels at 4360 put the 1440 vertical pixels sure will be an improvement.


----------



## exzacklyright

SO is it true you can't tell the difference between 95hz and 120hz?


----------



## arcade9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Yup looks like the right one to me. I also bought from GreenSum but I bought the glossy pixel perfect. People say that pixel perfect is a waste of the $20 or so, but I'd disagree, it's good insurance and good for your peace of mind. Got mine over a week ago and noticed I had 40 or so pixels that wouldn't display the green colors and some grays, and GreenSum was quick to allow me to return it, now I just gotta wait til they mail me a replacement.


So you bought the pixel perfect but you ended up having 40 bad pixels in the "pixel perfect" monitor? and now you just returned it?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> SO is it true you can't tell the difference between 95hz and 120hz?


It really depends on the user and very subjective. I'd be willing to bet that most people can't tell the difference, but it's impossible to say.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> SO is it true you can't tell the difference between 95hz and 120hz?


It's not true.


----------



## Timu

What the heck, my Qnix just turned off randomly...I'm scared!!!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> SO is it true you can't tell the difference between 95hz and 120hz?


You are going to only be able to tell in fast motion situations. A primary example is set it to 95hz and swing the mouse cursor around really fast .Then do it on 120hz you will tell the difference and if you don't it is likely you LOL. Another good test i the overall motion blur or banding that happens in fast pace FPS games. The clarity will be better at 120hz over 95hz. The human eye on a good day at fast pace can potentially see over +200fps so you should be able to tell even if you are not sensitive to judder but it will be situation based(fast pace motion).


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> It really depends on the user and very subjective. I'd be willing to bet that most people can't tell the difference, but it's impossible to say.


I know I can. I was just messing around with it today, going from 60 to 100 to 110 to 120. 100 to 120 is slight, but it's there.


----------



## Moragg

I had the recent revelation that, during gaming, I can't tell the difference between low and max settings







which is probably a good thing, as I only have a single 7870 LE.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> SO is it true you can't tell the difference between 95hz and 120hz?


If your monitor is 120hz, and you don't have a fast shutter speed camera, then this is a good way to test:
https://frames-per-second.appspot.com/

You might also need Fraps to make sure your browser is capable of rendering up to 120 fps.


----------



## luisfigueira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> You should be able to test higher refresh rates after patching your driver by running the nVidia Control Panel, going to the Change Resolution section, and clicking the "Customize..." button. From there you can create custom resolutions and test them out. This is the quickest way to find your maximum monitor overclock.
> 
> However, when using this method, these resolutions typically do not work while gaming. Once you find your optimal refresh rate, run the Custom Resolution Utility to create the resolution (make sure the correct monitor is selected in the dropdown!) and uncheck "Include extension block". After rebooting, that resolution should be selectable in the nVidia Control Panel.


Hello,

Thank your for your answer ! That helped me and now I'm running my monitor at 100Hz !

Thank you again !
Luis Figueira


----------



## exzacklyright

So do we need a power cable or not? I'm confused at this power brick they're supplying?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So do we need a power cable or not? I'm confused at this power brick they're supplying?


You can use the brick. All you need is a standard 3 prong cord to plug into it. I have a few laying around from other electronic devices.


----------



## ShakDiesel

No one knows about having different overclocks for nvidia surround?


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Overclocks have to be the same; when you set up surround, it treats all the monitors as one display, which means you'd have to use your lowest overclock for all the monitors.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Overclocks have to be the same; when you set up surround, it treats all the monitors as one display, which means you'd have to use your lowest overclock for all the monitors.


A weakest link scenario.


----------



## coelacanth

This was mentioned a couple times in this thread but not super clearly. This applies to the people with SLI setups who are trying to get over ~100Hz (400MHz pixel clock).

Nvidia has a pixel clock limit in their drivers. You can get around this limit by using Precision X (or other methods in this thread) if you have a single video card.

BUT for SLI setups, here's what ToastyX has to say as of June 8, 2013 about his patch:

"The patch is still needed in three cases:

*1. SLI needs the full patch to work properly beyond 400 MHz pixel clock.*
2. Some 500-series cards are limited to 400 MHz without the full patch. 600-series and newer cards are not limited.
3. CRU needs the regular patch to add resolutions beyond 330 MHz pixel clock. The regular patch won't break HDCP.

600-series and newer cards without SLI don't need the patch when using the NVIDIA control panel or the EVGA pixel clock feature."

A lot of us have SLI and these monitors so I thought this was worth repeating / clarifying. If you're not going to go over 100Hz, then you can just stick to Precision X (or whatever other method you use to overclock the Hz).


----------



## JDMfanatic

Maybe I'm being too impatient, but maybe people should hold off on buying from dream-seller for now... first they said they would ship 7/30, then 7/31, then 8/1 (korean time, so it's 8/2 now). It's been a good week since I ordered and still no signs of a monitor shipping?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic*
> 
> Maybe I'm being too impatient, but maybe people should hold off on buying from dream-seller for now... first they said they would ship 7/30, then 7/31, then 8/1 (korean time, so it's 8/2 now). It's been a good week since I ordered and still no signs of a monitor shipping?


I ordered and they shipped 30/7. Maybe you just unlucky. My shipment is coming to South Africa and is sitting at
GUANGZHOU CN. Hope it will be here soon. I'm hoping for early next week


----------



## Harley Gorillas

I've currently got a Shimian QH270 that I've been using for the past year and have started looking at getting a second monitor to use in a dual configuration and figured that I'd go with one of the QNIX QX2710 after reading this thread and a few others. I noticed on the various seller pages for these on ebay that they say it wont work with a converter.

I'm running an ATI 6970 with the Shimian plugged into the the DVI-I which works fine with the cable that shipped with it despite the pages saying that it wont work. So I'm wondering if anyone knows if the monitor really wont work if I try to connect it via a converter to one of the other connectors on the 6970, such as the display port.


----------



## Shibuya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harley Gorillas*
> 
> I've currently got a Shimian QH270 that I've been using for the past year and have started looking at getting a second monitor to use in a dual configuration and figured that I'd go with one of the QNIX QX2710 after reading this thread and a few others. I noticed on the various seller pages for these on ebay that they say it wont work with a converter.
> 
> I'm running an ATI 6970 with the Shimian plugged into the the DVI-I which works fine with the cable that shipped with it despite the pages saying that it wont work. So I'm wondering if anyone knows if the monitor really wont work if I try to connect it via a converter to one of the other connectors on the 6970, such as the display port.


You'd need an active adapter to go from DP to dual link DVI, they usually go for $60+


----------



## Moragg

Or, since his Shimain isn't OCed, he could just buy the DP version of the Qnix.


----------



## DiceAir

I'm thinking of just canceling my order as I feel that my package is not going to arrive safely in South Africa. It went form korea s to another city in Korea, Then from there to China, now in Germany. Where to next. I also contacted them about it and ask for replacement of the same monitor that will teake a more direct route to me. Fingers cross and hope they can sort me out. If they can't do that I will rather get a refund and spend it towards a GTX 780 lightning.


----------



## viwe649

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I'm thinking of just canceling my order as I feel that my package is not going to arrive safely in South Africa. It went form korea s to another city in Korea, Then from there to China, now in Germany. Where to next. I also contacted them about it and ask for replacement of the same monitor that will teake a more direct route to me. Fingers cross and hope they can sort me out. If they can't do that I will rather get a refund and spend it towards a GTX 780 lightning.


Hey man are you the same dude on carb? anyway,stop stressing lol,it will get to you...i'll pm you on carb with my tracking number so you can see all the places it went.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> Hey man are you the same dude on carb? anyway,stop stressing lol,it will get to you...i'll pm you on carb with my tracking number so you can see all the places it went.


Thanks dude. you made me less stressed about this now. My first order on ebay


----------



## kamaltmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I'm thinking of just canceling my order as I feel that my package is not going to arrive safely in South Africa. It went form korea s to another city in Korea, Then from there to China, now in Germany. Where to next. I also contacted them about it and ask for replacement of the same monitor that will teake a more direct route to me. Fingers cross and hope they can sort me out. If they can't do that I will rather get a refund and spend it towards a GTX 780 lightning.


I Got mine from dream-seller on the 30/7 too mine is still in GUANGZHOU CN, I ordered to saudi arabia. I hope it arrives safe


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamaltmo*
> 
> I Got mine from dream-seller on the 30/7 too mine is still in GUANGZHOU CN, I ordered to saudi arabia. I hope it arrives safe


I'm sure it will


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> You can use the brick. All you need is a standard 3 prong cord to plug into it. I have a few laying around from other electronic devices.


When I received mine it came with an adapter for US outlets but 3 prong cables should be really easy to acquire if you don't have one already.


----------



## loki23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I'm thinking of just canceling my order as I feel that my package is not going to arrive safely in South Africa. It went form korea s to another city in Korea, Then from there to China, now in Germany. Where to next. I also contacted them about it and ask for replacement of the same monitor that will teake a more direct route to me. Fingers cross and hope they can sort me out. If they can't do that I will rather get a refund and spend it towards a GTX 780 lightning.


How are you going to ask for a replacement when you haven't received anything yet?? The sellers have absolutely no control over the shipping routes that are used.


----------



## CallsignVega

Possibly interested in one of these PLS screens for work. Few questions:

Any "real" info if these monitors are PWM free? The PWM on the Catleaps really bothered me, so only interested in a PWM-free monitor. Any real measurements to that end instead of random speculation would be great.

What percentage of these monitors reliably overclock to 120 Hz or higher? We talking a small percent, large?

Any preferred vendors for the highest overclocking / least pixel defects?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Possibly interested in one of these PLS screens for work. Few questions:
> 
> Any "real" info if these monitors are PWM free? The PWM on the Catleaps really bothered me, so only interested in a PWM-free monitor. Any real measurements to that end instead of random speculation would be great.
> 
> What percentage of these monitors reliably overclock to 120 Hz or higher? We talking a small percent, large?
> 
> Any preferred vendors for the highest overclocking / least pixel defects?


All the answers to your questions are in the OP (aside from your PWM flickering question).
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/0_40

You should particularly look in:
*Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis*

Over 43% are hitting 120Hz+; 70% of dream-seller's purchasers are reporting 120+ and 51% of green-sum purchasers are reporting 120+. That's not to say that everyone who has bought from them has tried for 120, so I'd imagine that there's an even higher percentage of these monitors hitting 120 than that.

Preferred vendors are:
dream-seller
green-sum
hulustar

I was interested int he same thing you were. Overall I think dream-seller has had the highest percentage of monitors hitting 120+, but more recently green-sum has had a lot reaching 120+. I'd say it's just random, doesn't really matter who you buy from.

I was going to buy from dream-seller or greensum so did a little data mining. Here are the results.

There are 131 QNIX owners who reported a refresh rate. Of those 131 there were 73 that reported a refresh rate of 120Hz or better (55.7%)
There are 27 X-Star owners who reported a refresh rate. Of those 27 there were 14 that reported a refresh rate of 120Hz or better (51.9%)

40 people bought their QNIX monitors from green-sum. Of those 40, 35 reported a refresh rate, and of those 35, 18 reported a refresh rate of 120Hz or better (51.4%)
43 people bought their QNIX monitors from dream-seller. Of those 43, 33 reported a refresh rate, and of those 33, 23 reported a refresh rate of 120Hz or better (69.7%)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Possibly interested in one of these PLS screens for work. Few questions:
> 
> Any "real" info if these monitors are PWM free? The PWM on the Catleaps really bothered me, so only interested in a PWM-free monitor. Any real measurements to that end instead of random speculation would be great.
> 
> What percentage of these monitors reliably overclock to 120 Hz or higher? We talking a small percent, large?
> 
> Any preferred vendors for the highest overclocking / least pixel defects?


I am not going to go into PWM so anyone else please feel free to speak up. As for overclocking percentage there was a member who went through both thread pretty thoroughly and made some percentages. 96hz was MUCH more predominant than 120hz. This is mainly due to the effort many have put into getting that refresh stable and most just like to use NVCP or precisionx to overclock easily to 96hz. 120hz takes effort, you will likely have to get into timings and CRU more, try several cables and also try different ports on your monitor. As for actual numbers, it was along the lines of 10 percent could not overclock at all, 60 percent could get 96hz easy and the remaining 30 percent got 120hz either easily or with a goo deal of research and effort.

The preferred venders are gone over a bit in the OP but i can say from being in this thread from nearly begininng that these have been reliable in comparrison to others:
dreamseller
accessories whole
bigclothcraft
hulustar

I would not let this sway you from possibly trying others as we will create a monopoly. I would say it is likely better to go over warranties, pixel policies, return policies, check squaretrade and maybe even message the sellers some to get a personal feel for them. This is definitely an effort will get you better results scenario.

Hope this helps

EDIT: I Agree with coelacanth but have received poor response from telling people to read(sense were on a forum right?)


----------



## CallsignVega

My main question is in regard to PWM. I've read people on other forums state that they are sure the monitor doesn't use PWM but have not found any solid evidence in this thread nor anywhere else.

As to the other two questions, trends can change fairly quickly and may not be up to date in original posts or FAQ's.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> My main question is in regard to PWM. I've read people on other forums state that they are sure the monitor doesn't use PWM but have not found any solid evidence in this thread nor anywhere else.
> 
> As to the other two questions, trends can change fairly quickly and may not be up to date in original posts or FAQ's.


This info definitely needs adding to the OP:

These monitors are *not* PWM-free, the panel definitely has PWM. There was a review on overclockers.ru (I think) that measured it at ~165Hz, I think TFTcentral's review of the Asus with this panel measured ~250Hz.
I will say that I run my monitor 10 clicks up from bottom (120cd/m2) and PWM is not noticeable at all until you get to much lower brightness levels.

Sorry it's not PWM, but maybe will someone will know of a Korean IPS that is PWM-free. Good luck!


----------



## David164v8

Next Thursday I should hopefully be buying a glossy QX2710 from green-sum. Is there anyway to check if the glossy screen will be fine in my room? I have two Windows to the side of my computer, but no light shining directly onto it, so I think it should be fine.

Also, from reading this thread I need to ask Green-Sum to mark the package as less than £36 and as a gift to avoid being hit with a hefty import fee. Do you guys think the customs guys would give a ****? Don't want to be fined or anything


----------



## Angerism

Hi all,

Has anyone had any beef with the Catleap.inf driver? I upgraded to Win8 today and now I'm having a signiture fail?

Does anyone know how to get around this?

Thanks in advance and sorry if it's already been spoken about, haven't looked through all the pages.


----------



## Shibuya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Next Thursday I should hopefully be buying a glossy QX2710 from green-sum. Is there anyway to check if the glossy screen will be fine in my room? I have two Windows to the side of my computer, but no light shining directly onto it, so I think it should be fine.
> 
> Also, from reading this thread I need to ask Green-Sum to mark the package as less than £36 and as a gift to avoid being hit with a hefty import fee. Do you guys think the customs guys would give a ****? Don't want to be fined or anything


The matte version is actually semi-glossy so that might/might not be enough for you. You wouldn't necessarily be fined since you're not the one who undervalued the package.


----------



## Remmib

*Newegg now sells Qnix/X-Star.*

*Link*


----------



## Shibuya

Also 3rd party sellers like on Amazon (ships from SK)


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> *Newegg now sells Qnix/X-Star.*
> 
> *Link*


Technically it's a 3rd party seller through Newegg. And the seller is from South Korea.

Not sure how returns, refund, and replacement policies will work.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

PWM bothered you how? Eye strain?

And wow re. Newegg though yeah still a 3rd party.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Anyone know how to keep CS:GO/games in 120Hz mode when in borderless windowed mode? I got it finally to stay in 120Hz in normal mode, but it seems to leave it when it goes borderless.


Anyone?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> Technically it's a 3rd party seller through Newegg. And the seller is from South Korea.
> 
> Not sure how returns, refund, and replacement policies will work.


Hmm...."Sold by Neofeel"

Apparently 30 day return policy, with no mention of pixels or backlight bleed, and there is a restocking fee...


----------



## OCNOTE2

:thumb:I got my Qnix from Ebay seller (Green Sum) 2 days ago. Ordered on Saturday 7-27-2013, delivered on Wed 7-31-2013 (Korea to US). I was looing for info on Nvidia GTX 275 compatibility before I decide to purchase Qnix but I couldn't find any information. I went ahead and purchase Qnix without knowing it would work with my GPU GTX 275. I am able to OC to 96hz. This monitor is stunting . Thanks OCN and all member for many useful information.


----------



## Droogie

A 275 is going to struggle at that resolution in games pretty bad.


----------



## apav

Just sharing you guys an update with my progress so far with ipsledmonitors.com (the only seller that offers free returns for defects to the monitor).

After 5 days of shipping cross country, they sent me an email today that they've received the monitor, that all QNIX and X-Stars are out of stock, and that the Korean seller should have more in stock Monday or Tuesday KST. Once it ships I have to wait another 5 days for it to get here, so this is a lot of waiting. They did admit that this monitor has a fair share of flaws, so that was pretty cool at least.

They did say something days earlier along the lines of "we'll see if we can track down a better quality monitor for you," but they never answered my question as to what that means. They did say that I'm in front of the queue for getting a monitor.

If all this hassle means that I receive a perfect monitor in the end, I'll be happy and won't have any complaints. But if I receive another bad one I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

Now my experience with them is getting a little mixed. The guy is taking days to reply back to my email, and even then he hasn't answered my question about how they are finding a better quality monitor, which I've asked twice now. I don't know if he forgot about it or is dodging the question, but that's a huge deciding factor for if I want a return or a replacement. I hate to admit it but I have a feeling he just was saying what I wanted to hear so that I wouldn't ask for a refund.

I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Anyone?


Borderless windowed mode should use whatever refresh rate you use in the desktop. I've never experienced a game that doesn't behave like that, and CS:GO works in that way for me. Try running it with these launch options:

-h 1440 -w 2560 -novid -window -noborder


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> *Newegg now sells Qnix/X-Star.*
> 
> *Link*


Thank you for this info. Newegg has served me well LOL


----------



## sniggleface

Has anyone had an issue with the desktop refresh rate reverting to 60hz occasionally? It seems to specifically happen after the display goes into sleep mode, and then once it's in 60hz it cannot be switched back to my desired refresh rate. The option isn't available in the dropdown menu. Rebooting fixes the problem.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Has anyone had an issue with the desktop refresh rate reverting to 60hz occasionally? It seems to specifically happen after the display goes into sleep mode, and then once it's in 60hz it cannot be switched back to my desired refresh rate. The option isn't available in the dropdown menu. Rebooting fixes the problem.


I had this happen for a while. Re-intalling my drivers (clean install) and re-applying the patch fixed (never seen it since).


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> This info definitely needs adding to the OP:
> 
> These monitors are *not* PWM-free, the panel definitely has PWM. There was a review on overclockers.ru (I think) that measured it at ~165Hz, I think TFTcentral's review of the Asus with this panel measured ~250Hz.
> I will say that I run my monitor 10 clicks up from bottom (120cd/m2) and PWM is not noticeable at all until you get to much lower brightness levels.
> 
> Sorry it's not PWM, but maybe will someone will know of a Korean IPS that is PWM-free. Good luck!


Same here I don't notice PWM until at very low brightness settings that I never use.


----------



## exzacklyright

I ordered on 7/31... but no tracking info?

Nvm.. had to go to ups.com


----------



## Angerism

Is nobody else using windows 8??


----------



## MenacingTuba

I used the same method TFT Central uses to capture PWM @140cdm/2 as well as the shutter-speed method (set cameras shutter to 1/500th always reveals flickering on my Sanyo HD2000's LCD) and did not detect PWM.

The Samsung S27B970D PRAD reviewed used PWM (low 180hz frequency) while TFT Centrals did not, and a few AH-IPS & A-MVA panels are known to suffer from PWM panel lottery so I would not be surprised if these suffer from PWM panel lottery as well.


----------



## exzacklyright

I'm guessing they're not in order haha


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> This info definitely needs adding to the OP:
> 
> These monitors are *not* PWM-free, the panel definitely has PWM. There was a review on overclockers.ru (I think) that measured it at ~165Hz, I think TFTcentral's review of the Asus with this panel measured ~250Hz.
> I will say that I run my monitor 10 clicks up from bottom (120cd/m2) and PWM is not noticeable at all until you get to much lower brightness levels.
> 
> Sorry it's not PWM, but maybe will someone will know of a Korean IPS that is PWM-free. Good luck!


Thanks, as suspected. I also got an email from a large seller stating that all of the PLS panel monitors use PWM. Shame!


----------



## szeged

available on newegg now


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> available on newegg now


just a korean reseller on newegg. Kind of deceiving that newegg does that, but I guess amazon is the same.


----------



## caenlen

wth is PWM...


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> wth is PWM...


http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/pulse_width_modulation.htm

Basically the "cheaper" way of controlling the brightness of a screen, rather than adjusting it's steady-state voltage and maintaining a continuous back light.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> wth is PWM...


PWM = Pulse Width Modulated (output)

with LEDs you can flash them on/off very quickly to have the effect of "dimming the screen", but it can result in a flickering appearance.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> just a korean reseller on newegg. Kind of deceiving that newegg does that, but I guess amazon is the same.


true but still gives others an option to buy them that dont know about overclock.net or the other sellers on ebay. My gfs brother only buys computer parts from newegg and wouldnt trust ebay etc, so people like him are now open to these monitors


----------



## Backfat

I made a thread with a question about an issue to do with a dark grey bar when overclocked, but figured I'd post it in here to see what comes of it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1414965/qnix-qx2710-vertical-gray-bar-in-120hz/0_100

View at 120hz: http://i.imgur.com/X2EjoMi.jpg
60hz: http://i.imgur.com/50V2rCf.jpg


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Backfat*
> 
> I made a thread with a question about an issue to do with a dark grey bar when overclocked, but figured I'd post it in here to see what comes of it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1414965/qnix-qx2710-vertical-gray-bar-in-120hz/0_100
> 
> View at 120hz: http://i.imgur.com/X2EjoMi.jpg
> 60hz: http://i.imgur.com/50V2rCf.jpg


As they said in your other thread, try another cable and mess with timings. All of these monitors are one giant lottery and gamble, so it's a matter of trying different stuff. If all else fails, it's a relatively cheap WQHD monitor that works perfectly at 60hz that you could probably sell to someone else and then try another one.


----------



## Backfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> As they said in your other thread, try another cable and mess with timings. All of these monitors are one giant lottery and gamble, so it's a matter of trying different stuff. If all else fails, it's a relatively cheap WQHD monitor that works perfectly at 60hz that you could probably sell to someone else and then try another one.


As I said in my thread, I don't own another cable, and change the timings to what? Everyone says change timings... change them to what?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Backfat*
> 
> As I said in my thread, I don't own another cable, and change the timings to what? Everyone says change timings... change them to what?


If you had a nasty cough and the doctor said you should take some cough syrup but you didn't own any, would you just suffer or go out and buy some cough syrup?









The timing changes will probably not help (and possibly hurt for all I know), but when you create a custom resolution via CRU or the nVidia panel, there are a ton of text boxes for front porch, sync width, etc. Try changing some of those by a small amount to see if it makes a difference.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Backfat*
> 
> As I said in my thread, I don't own another cable, and change the timings to what? Everyone says change timings... change them to what?


OK you don't have another cable......well that is a problem and could be the whole problem but we don't know that until you try another. This is kinda like we are offering you a method to try and fix it and all you are saying is no.

As for the timings, you need to read and find out what will work better or worse. You don't want to start changing things without having an idea of what you are doing. Try LCD reduced for starters and if that does not help you will simply have to read up on the effects of timings. This thread has a LOAD of good info just search "timings". Also go to the catleap club and the downsampling threads.

You can't just keep claiming no help sorry


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> If you had a nasty cough and the doctor said you should take some cough syrup but you didn't own any, would you just suffer or go out and buy some cough syrup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The timing changes will probably not help (and possibly hurt for all I know), but when you create a custom resolution via CRU or the nVidia panel, there are a ton of text boxes for front porch, sync width, etc. Try changing some of those by a small amount to see if it makes a difference.


+1 love the metaphor.


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> As they said in your other thread, try another cable and mess with timings. All of these monitors are one giant lottery and gamble, so it's a matter of trying different stuff. If all else fails, it's a relatively cheap WQHD monitor that works perfectly at 60hz that you could probably sell to someone else and then try another one.


That and people need to realize these monitors aren't guaranteed anything except bone stock.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> That and people need to realize these monitors aren't guaranteed anything except bone stock.


That is the truth. The one i have is awesome(can go as high as 152hz) but the one my cousin got can only do 102hz even with every little tweak i did to mine.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Backfat*
> 
> As I said in my thread, I don't own another cable, and change the timings to what? Everyone says change timings... change them to what?


Another point to put this in perspective is that if you were not so reluctant to even try another cable it has been known that certain video cards overclock better. For example i have 2 GTX570s and the bottom card can overclock 5hz further than the top. Also on that bottom card the lower port does 3hz better than the top port. I also have a GTX660 and it overclocks better than them all. There are several variables here and any one of them could be causing that line(if it is not just the monitor). You need to get another cable to even start troubleshooting.


----------



## Backfat

Not to sound like a jerk or anything but I feel like I'm being ganged up on so....

For the 6 posts dogging me about me not trying another cable... Especially the doctor metaphor. 1) you're not a doctor 2) you are giving me little confidence you (or anyone else suggesting to try another cable) that you have any idea whether it would even have any effect 3) am I to just buy a $15 cable on a whim from some person on the internet who says "maybe try one?". If there was some write up somewhere that said "Yes if you have this issue, a different cable is likely to solve your problem, or past anecdotal evidence shows it may work". Your advice is akin to: "did you try power cycling it"

Quote:


> That and people need to realize these monitors aren't guaranteed anything except bone stock.
> 
> That is the truth. The one i have is awesome(can go as high as 152hz) but the one my cousin got can only do 102hz even with every little tweak i did to mine.


I wasn't expecting it to, *all I've been asking iswhat this thing is, if there is a possible fix, and if not, will I damage my monitor overclocking at 120hz?*


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Backfat*
> 
> Not to sound like a jerk or anything but I feel like I'm being ganged up on so....
> 
> For the 6 posts dogging me about me not trying another cable... Especially the doctor metaphor. 1) you're not a doctor 2) you are giving me little confidence you (or anyone else suggesting to try another cable) that you have any idea whether it would even have any effect 3) am I to just buy a $15 cable on a whim from some person on the internet who says "maybe try one?". If there was some write up somewhere that said "Yes if you have this issue, a different cable is likely to solve your problem, or past anecdotal evidence shows it may work". Your advice is akin to: "did you try power cycling it"
> I wasn't expecting it to, *all I've been asking iswhat this thing is, if there is a possible fix, and if not, will I damage my monitor overclocking at 120hz?*


Okay lets break this down. You have a problem, well you need to troubleshoot what the problem is. There are several primary variables to consider:

1. the monitor itself, you can't know this until you try everything else. that is pretty much it since this situation is not a known issues and has not been determined to be one thing or another
2. THE CABLE this is literally one of the cheapest pieces to troubleshoot. Yes you will likely need to buy one to see if it is causing it. Sorry man but fixing things sometimes costs money. I have seen poor cables cause ALL kinds of issues.
3. The port on your video card. If you have more than one try another. Otherwise you are talking hardcore troubleshooting and trying a whole other video card
4. the video card itself ^
5. Drivers, although i think this is unlikely it is possible
6. POWER. i also think this is unlikely but you want to try moving the power cable to a different outlet and maybe using a different cable off the power unit.

You are not getting ganged up on. We are trying to help you and your responses have been completely unresponsive to anyone's help. You simply have giving everyone this feel of "your answer was not good enough" and multiple people responding this way is not a bullying thing. Trust me i have better things to do.

If you want a completely free, simple and drop dead 100% guaranteed test sorry man your out of luck.

EDIT: there has never to date been any reported long term side effects from overclocking. So with that being said even with this "line" NO-ONE knows because there has been NO reports.


----------



## air tree

Has anyone got the Ipsledmonitors.com 3 year warranty? if so would you recommend it?


----------



## ronquilent

I wish UPS didn't have to fly their international packages all over the country but I guess that's their only route. Still really impressed by their shipping times though.


----------



## Spartan F8

There is also the timings which like i said you need to read about before you start messing around with it because if you do we will then be helping you to even get a picture back. And NO my answer is NOT comparable to "did you power cycle it" I am starting from the beginning and the basics which starts with the cable followed by what i said above.

But since you said it......Did you power cycle it? LOL J/k Maybe you are reading to much into the negative or joking comments.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> I wish UPS didn't have to roam all over the country to deliver international packages but I guess that's their only route.


Mine kinda did this as well. It literally just flew by me what seemed like twice before it actually got to my area. international shipping is weird. I am sure there are superficial variables that make it sorta justified. Just like international laws LOL.,


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There is also the timings which like i said you need to read about before you start messing around with it because if you do we will then be helping you to even get a picture back. And NO my answer is NOT comparable to "did you power cycle it" I am starting from the beginning and the basics which starts with the cable followed by what i said above.
> 
> But since you said it......Did you power cycle it? LOL J/k Maybe you are reading to much into the negative or joking comments.


A better metaphor would be you call ATT to troubleshoot your internet and they find your connection from the modem to your PC is not working and they ask you to replace that cable which is your cable since it is past the modem and you say NO. Well there is nothing else that can be done since you stopped at step 1. Because it could be the modem port, cable or your pc port/driver. I also might add that the support desk person would not deserve backlash in this event.


----------



## Spartan F8

I asked this a while back and nobody decided to bit. I was wondering if the LCD overdrive technology AMD cards offer would have any positive effect in terms of response. Well i have a AMD card on order to test this out and will report back tomorrow with my results. I will be testing at stock, 96hz and 120hz since they are the most used of any refresh.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Has anyone got the Ipsledmonitors.com 3 year warranty? if so would you recommend it?


I have not, but the reason I didn't is because the site appears to be brand new and I don't trust that they will even be around for 3 years. The domain was registered just two months ago, and they don't even exist on resellerratings.com. Not saying they're a bad company, just haven't gained enough credibility to trust with a warranty.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> I have not, but the reason I didn't is because the site appears to be brand new and I don't trust that they will even be around for 3 years. The domain was registered just two months ago, and they don't even exist on resellerratings.com. Not saying they're a bad company, just haven't gained enough credibility to trust with a warranty.


For those who have this thought going might want to consider that newegg is carrying these monitors now.

With newegg's popularity and reputation it may be OP worthy that they are now carrying them. Just a thought


----------



## Bobotheklown

Just ordered a glossy qnix from newegg with the upgraded 3-5 day shipping.

Next up is a dual vesa mount for my u2711 and this qnix. Thinking of going with this:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005TCMQ2Y/ref=aw_ls__1?colid=2UXJDLUCO7L8Z&coliid=I1YYVW6KOA0Q94
Anyone has experience with this stand or another suggestion?


----------



## Backfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> A better metaphor would be you call ATT to troubleshoot your internet and they find your connection from the modem to your PC is not working and they ask you to replace that cable which is your cable since it is past the modem and you say NO. Well there is nothing else that can be done since you stopped at step 1. Because it could be the modem port, cable or your pc port/driver. I also might add that the support desk person would not deserve backlash in this event.


Yeahhhh except for the fact that they are trained at troubleshooting. You don't know what this problem is so how can you know what a cable would or wouldn't do?

You could say "hey my xbox has a red ring of death, how do I fix it..?" and I could say: "Did you try replacing the controller?" you'd argue, "why?" I'd say: "well if you aren't willing to try to fix your problem by replacing the controller, you don't really care about fixing it..."

And how often do you call tech support anywhere and get any solid advice?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Backfat*
> 
> Yeahhhh except for the fact that they are trained at troubleshooting. You don't know what this problem is so how can you know what a cable would or wouldn't do?
> 
> You could say "hey my xbox has a red ring of death, how do I fix it..?" and I could say: "Did you try replacing the controller?" you'd argue, "why?" I'd say: "well if you aren't willing to try to fix your problem by replacing the controller, you don't really care about fixing it..."
> 
> And how often do you call tech support anywhere and get any solid advice?


If you don't trust us, why are you asking us anything? We're only trying to help. The monitor has two cables: power and DVI-D. There are only so many inexpensive and basic things you can try to debug the issue.


----------



## Backfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> If you don't trust us, why are you asking us anything? We're only trying to help. The monitor has two cables: power and DVI-D. There are only so many inexpensive and basic things you can try to debug the issue.


Because I'm looking for answers from people who know what this issue is, not just guessing. I can guess with the best of em too.

If someone would have said.. "yeahh i've seen that before, it's blahblahblah caused by blahblahblah, I've heard xyz may work for it, if not, try swapping cables, if not try abc.." Then I'd be like ok cool, I'll go get a cable..

And again, I'm not necessarily looking to fix it as it doesn't affect me while gaming. I can only see it outside of games on the desktop at 120hz. I MOSTLY wanted to know what the gray bar was, and if it would cause damage to the monitor.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobotheklown*
> 
> Just ordered a glossy qnix from newegg with the upgraded 3-5 day shipping.


How much did that "upgraded" shipping cost you? Considering that it's sold via a Korean seller so there really is no difference between buying one on newegg, amazon, or ebay. They all seem to come with 3-5 day shipping. Not to mention the newegg seller prices are a little pricier and they don't seem to have any kind of pixel guarantee/return policy. The newegg seller also says he charges a restocking fee.

It just doesn't seem like a good place to buy it imo.


----------



## Bobotheklown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outlawed*
> 
> How much did that "upgraded" shipping cost you? Considering that it's sold via a Korean seller so there really is no difference between buying one on newegg, amazon, or ebay. They all seem to come with 3-5 day shipping. Not to mention the newegg seller prices are a little pricier and they don't seem to have any kind of pixel guarantee/return policy. The newegg seller also says he charges a restocking fee.
> 
> It just doesn't seem like a good place to buy it imo.


From what i read it sounds like all returns and RMAs go through newegg, and I've had good experience with them in that regard in the past. The upgraded shipping was 9.99.

Either way I'll be able to report back here with my experience of the newegg seller.


----------



## Outlawed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobotheklown*
> 
> From what i read it sounds like all returns and RMAs go through newegg, and I've had good experience with them in that regard in the past. The upgraded shipping was 9.99.
> 
> Either way I'll be able to report back here with my experience of the newegg seller.


I wish you luck then friend! These monitors tend to be pixel perfect the majority of the time it seems anyways.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Has anyone got the Ipsledmonitors.com 3 year warranty? if so would you recommend it?


FYI I bought a sqr trade warranty on the monitor I purchased from them.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Backfat*
> 
> Yeahhhh except for the fact that they are trained at troubleshooting. You don't know what this problem is so how can you know what a cable would or wouldn't do?
> 
> You could say "hey my xbox has a red ring of death, how do I fix it..?" and I could say: "Did you try replacing the controller?" you'd argue, "why?" I'd say: "well if you aren't willing to try to fix your problem by replacing the controller, you don't really care about fixing it..."
> 
> And how often do you call tech support anywhere and get any solid advice?


I don't call tech support because i work in tech support. So i am trained, certified and educated. You are being rather impossible and i don't think you are going to get an answer that you can accept. There are SEVERAL issues that cannot be just pin-pointed without troubleshooting. I know this from years of experience and testing. In essence what you are saying is true no-one has been able to say yeah that is caused by this and this could be the exact variable to fix or test it. In this instance you cannot do that there are too many potential variables.

I also think it is very funny that you think they are trained. I have worked for several support desks as a LV2 or LV3 technician and i can tell you right now they are reading off a script and really hardly know more than you do. So i have givin you what you need to know to find out what this is and how to possibly go about either getting around it or knowing if is unfix able.

Quite frankly at this point you have bashed EVERY person that has said a word to you and it is kinda getting ridiculous.


----------



## dir_d

Does this happen to anyone else? The monitor usually says Dual DVI but then sometimes it says Unkown Display Device. When it does this i lose the ability to control the color profile in windows because its not recognized by windows even though the monitor is still recognized in CCC. The only way i can get it back is by disabling crossfire and re enabling it or a restart.

Untitled.jpg 580k .jpg file


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dir_d*
> 
> Does this happen to anyone else? The monitor usually says Dual DVI but then sometimes it says Unkown Display Device. When it does this i lose the ability to control the color profile in windows because its not recognized by windows even though the monitor is still recognized in CCC. The only way i can get it back is by disabling crossfire and re enabling it or a restart.
> 
> Untitled.jpg 580k .jpg file


This has to do with the monitor driver itself. Try installing the catleap driver manually or a generic driver manually in the device manager.


----------



## dir_d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This has to do with the monitor driver itself. Try installing the catleap driver manually or a generic driver manually in the device manager.


I have the catleap driver installed


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dir_d*
> 
> I have the catleap driver installed


Weird try removing it and re-installing. Also if enabling SLI/Crossfire fixes it then try a video driver re-install. The cause is that the monitor driver is not loading correctly and it reads as unknown.


----------



## air tree

What does the square trade warranty cover?


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> What does the square trade warranty cover?


i've heard different reports.there were older post saying squaretrade did not cover a-(minus) panel warranties because the monitors were sold with known defects (someone correct me if I'm wrong). then others who have sent their monitors for "repair" have received a full refund. there was a rumor that only perfect pixel monitors or at least listing that stated zero defects would be covered.

tbh, sqr trade is a huge company, you may get a differnent experience each time. i'm pretty certain that do not "repair" any korean monitors lol


----------



## ronquilent

This is strangely funny....


----------



## Coree

I have one question:
Are screen burn-ins permanent? I still have some after overclocking, now i'm at stock.. It has nearly vanished though.


----------



## Benbenson

Anyone know if this monitor is truly hdcp approved? Nvidia control panel says yes but my DirectTV application says no.

Is this just DirectTV being ****ty like usual?


----------



## Rakunvar

Just a quick question for you guys... So im building a new pc atm, also will have 2 SLI GTX 780 Lightning edition. Looking @ either purchasing the Qnix through ipsledmonitors.com or Newegg. Getting these monitors would be my first jump into the high end versions of monitors and of course am worried about the dead pixel situation down the road.

*My question is basically... If I get them from IPSledmonitors would their warranty, or the Squaretradewarranty be a better bet in the event of dead pixel's and such? I did notice squaretrade doesnt cover past the manf. warranty outlines for it but didnt seem to find them yet... Worried about how long that site will be around with their warranty as well. Newegg seems about the same, plus reliable, and can also charge you a restock fee of like 50$ for them, but i'm not sure how they would deal with pixel issues.

If neither would really cover with warranty, not sure what use the warranty would have aside from just overal failing...

Or...Perhaps adding the "accidental+drops+spills coverage" would be worth the extra 25$ from Squaretrade in the event of pixel issues the "Opps" I dropped it story? lol..*

Thanks guys!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coree*
> 
> I have one question:
> Are screen burn-ins permanent? I still have some after overclocking, now i'm at stock.. It has nearly vanished though.


There has been no reported perminant screen burn-in to date. This is because it is not actually screen burn-in it is color retention. If your get some excessive retention set it back to 60hz for a while and put the screen on a black or white background. Also it can be beneficial to set a short timeout for a screen saver that sets the screen to 60hz and is all black or white.


----------



## Barc0de

Just got an X-Star


----------



## cusinndzl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> This is strangely funny....


Mine is doing the same thing. I find it odd that they are going through two import scans. Even with the weird shipping route mine should arrive on Monday which is pretty darn fast for something shipping from a place so far away.


----------



## junkrok

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> Just a quick question for you guys... So im building a new pc atm, also will have 2 SLI GTX 780 Lightning edition. Looking @ either purchasing the Qnix through ipsledmonitors.com or Newegg. Getting these monitors would be my first jump into the high end versions of monitors and of course am worried about the dead pixel situation down the road.
> 
> *My question is basically... If I get them from IPSledmonitors would their warranty, or the Squaretradewarranty be a better bet in the event of dead pixel's and such? I did notice squaretrade doesnt cover past the manf. warranty outlines for it but didnt seem to find them yet... Worried about how long that site will be around with their warranty as well. Newegg seems about the same, plus reliable, and can also charge you a restock fee of like 50$ for them, but i'm not sure how they would deal with pixel issues.
> 
> If neither would really cover with warranty, not sure what use the warranty would have aside from just overal failing...
> 
> Or...Perhaps adding the "accidental+drops+spills coverage" would be worth the extra 25$ from Squaretrade in the event of pixel issues the "Opps" I dropped it story? lol..*
> 
> Thanks guys!






I did ipsledmonitors + sqr trade. that seems to be the safest option. people have already used their sqr trade warranty on these monitors and received a full refund. Plus the sqr trade was $32 when I bought it. I think people are giving too much credit to newegg, i've bought from resellers on their before. until someone has actually tried to return and got hit with a restocking fee that seems to be the bigger gamble.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coree*
> 
> I have one question:
> Are screen burn-ins permanent? I still have some after overclocking, now i'm at stock.. It has nearly vanished though.


An earlier post (brightbus) says they are not HDCP compliant. He didn't post any source on that though.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> An earlier post (brightbus) says they are not HDCP compliant. He didn't post any source on that though.


Hulustar confirmed they are not HDCP compliant. Not a big deal though if you are just using this for PC.

and yeah I have had some color issues, I just turn the monitor off for a few minutes then back on then color management reapply profile and its fixed for a another week or two


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> Borderless windowed mode should use whatever refresh rate you use in the desktop. I've never experienced a game that doesn't behave like that, and CS:GO works in that way for me. Try running it with these launch options:
> 
> -h 1440 -w 2560 -novid -window -noborder
Click to expand...

didn't work. even did -refresh 120 -freq 120


----------



## Barc0de

Ok, my Paypal account was used (not sure if hacked or just racked charges on my CC) and nearly $3000 has been charged all to Korean names just about a week after my purchase. This is the only transaction through Paypal I have done in 3 months. Pretty damn sure my CC got around, I bought from *!BEWARE! dream-seller* *!BEWARE!* I am only praying they haven't been through my bank account (can't access it right now to check, online banking down atm) and being thankful I used my CC rather than a direct withdrawal.


----------



## Shibuya

Sellers can't see your CC # through paypal so something else must be up


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barc0de*
> 
> Ok, my Paypal account was used (not sure if hacked or just racked charges on my CC) and nearly $3000 has been charged all to Korean names just about a week after my purchase. This is the only transaction through Paypal I have done in 3 months. Pretty damn sure my CC got around, I bought from *!BEWARE! dream-seller* *!BEWARE!* I am only praying they haven't been through my bank account (can't access it right now to check, online banking down atm) and being thankful I used my CC rather than a direct withdrawal.


Wow. I just contacted dream-seller 2 days ago and someone replied, "he is out of the office, until 8/4". Very weird. I would buy from Green-sum until this crap is cleared up.


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Wow. I just contacted dream-seller 2 days ago and someone replied, "he is out of the office, until 8/4". Very weird. I would buy from Green-sum until this crap is cleared up.


Not really, that's after the weekend their time, he may have taken off early on friday


----------



## true86no

Strange, my NVCpanel says it's HDCP.


----------



## viwe649

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> Strange, my NVCpanel says it's HDCP.


Mine too


----------



## Swolern

If anyone wants to see what it takes to run 3 of these monitor I put together a benchmark & scaling thread of 7680x1440 with GK110.

*http://www.overclock.net/t/1415441/7680x1440-benchmarks-plus-2-3-4-way-sli-gk110-scaling*


----------



## Coree

Seems like the burn-in marks disappear when playing games. But when I shut down my monitor for 10hrs and open it again, the burn-in marks are again visible? This cycle just repeats itself. I'm just concerned about this behaviour. I'm thinking of putting a flashing black-white screen for 10-15 hours and see will it help.


----------



## kevinsbane

These monitors are hdcp compliant. However if you patched your drivers to overclock your monitor, this breaks hdcp.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> didn't work. even did -refresh 120 -freq 120


Do your displays flicker as if they're changing mode when you launch CS? When using windowed mode it should be totally seamless with no mode changes, and therefore the game has to be using whatever Windows is using. How are you verifying that CS is not at the correct refresh rate?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> These monitors are hdcp compliant. However if you patched your drivers to overclock your monitor, this breaks hdcp.


Is it patching the drivers or running testmode that breaks HDCP? I think neither AMD nor Nvidia cards need testmode anymore.


----------



## Rakunvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> Just a quick question for you guys... So im building a new pc atm, also will have 2 SLI GTX 780 Lightning edition. Looking @ either purchasing the Qnix through ipsledmonitors.com or Newegg. Getting these monitors would be my first jump into the high end versions of monitors and of course am worried about the dead pixel situation down the road.
> 
> *My question is basically... If I get them from IPSledmonitors would their warranty, or the Squaretradewarranty be a better bet in the event of dead pixel's and such? I did notice squaretrade doesnt cover past the manf. warranty outlines for it but didnt seem to find them yet... Worried about how long that site will be around with their warranty as well. Newegg seems about the same, plus reliable, and can also charge you a restock fee of like 50$ for them, but i'm not sure how they would deal with pixel issues.
> 
> If neither would really cover with warranty, not sure what use the warranty would have aside from just overal failing...
> 
> Or...Perhaps adding the "accidental+drops+spills coverage" would be worth the extra 25$ from Squaretrade in the event of pixel issues the "Opps" I dropped it story? lol..*
> 
> Thanks guys!


Still looking for any tips on this, wanna order them tommorow







Read a ton in here and other places but just wanna run it passed people to see what they think for sure.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barc0de*
> 
> Ok, my Paypal account was used (not sure if hacked or just racked charges on my CC) and nearly $3000 has been charged all to Korean names just about a week after my purchase. This is the only transaction through Paypal I have done in 3 months. Pretty damn sure my CC got around, I bought from *!BEWARE! dream-seller* *!BEWARE!* I am only praying they haven't been through my bank account (can't access it right now to check, online banking down atm) and being thankful I used my CC rather than a direct withdrawal.


This doesn't make much sense if you used paypal. Dream-seller can't see your credit card #. Also do you think a seller with 10,000 ebay sales and a 99% feedback is going to bother scamming one person out of $3000?

edit:

Also, all the people spazzing out when they don't get a response the same day (over a weekend), or their tracking updates change. Calm down.

These are Korean import monitors. Part of the reason they don't cost $600 is because they are not being sold buy a multi-billion dollar corp that has global call centers and reps waiting on you.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> Just a quick question for you guys... So im building a new pc atm, also will have 2 SLI GTX 780 Lightning edition. Looking @ either purchasing the Qnix through ipsledmonitors.com or Newegg. Getting these monitors would be my first jump into the high end versions of monitors and of course am worried about the dead pixel situation down the road.
> 
> *My question is basically... If I get them from IPSledmonitors would their warranty, or the Squaretradewarranty be a better bet in the event of dead pixel's and such? I did notice squaretrade doesnt cover past the manf. warranty outlines for it but didnt seem to find them yet... Worried about how long that site will be around with their warranty as well. Newegg seems about the same, plus reliable, and can also charge you a restock fee of like 50$ for them, but i'm not sure how they would deal with pixel issues.
> 
> If neither would really cover with warranty, not sure what use the warranty would have aside from just overal failing...
> 
> Or...Perhaps adding the "accidental+drops+spills coverage" would be worth the extra 25$ from Squaretrade in the event of pixel issues the "Opps" I dropped it story? lol..*
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> 
> 
> Still looking for any tips on this, wanna order them tommorow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read a ton in here and other places but just wanna run it passed people to see what they think for sure.
Click to expand...

I know everyone values safety in this investment. ~$300 is a lot of coin to put down on a monitor. However, I think newegg is the worst purchasing option for these monitors. Restock fee, not even sold by newegg, increased price, and the biggest thing that everyone is overlooking: "30 day return policy." I highly doubt you will be able to pull any kind of warranty through a newegg sale, so why pay the premium?

Now on to ipsledmonitors.com... another reseller who is pocketing the extra money they charge for their monitors (even more than newegg does), but they are the same as the ones on ebay. Who are these guys? How long are they going to be around for (long enough to honor the warranty they sell)?

*To be blunt, this thread wouldn't exist and none of us would be here if purchasing directly from ebay wasn't 'safe' or gave us all faulty monitors.* My recommendation, and this goes to anyone viewing this thread, is to buy from an ebay seller and then (if you are worried) purchase a squaretrade warranty. It is proven to work, will ship in the same amount of time, and be cheaper than buying from ipsledmonitors.com

The value (performance/price) of this monitor drops as the price is increased over that of ebay. If you can spend ~$400 for a Qnix, I suggest you just save up for a dell. They often go on sale on deal websites


----------



## MingoDynasty

Dell monitors can't overclock to 120hz.

In fact the best thing about these Korean monitors is the potential for 120hz overclock.


----------



## wntrsnowg

True, but I was more making a point of trying to keep the price as low on these as possible is what this is all about. That is why most buy directly at the source (sort of) in SK


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> Dell monitors can't overclock to 120hz.
> 
> In fact the best thing about these Korean monitors is the potential for 120hz overclock.


Well i thought it was price.....or maybe no scaler so less input lag. Also PLS per price(which is different from others and is different from the first reason and most korean panels are IPS not PLS). I mean i was buying and recommending these before i ever started overclocking them. This is coming from someone who has used all the name brands and compared.

Not sure where you were going with this post but it is almost derogatory.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> Dell monitors can't overclock to 120hz.
> 
> In fact the best thing about these Korean monitors is the potential for 120hz overclock.


Exactly, if you want a QNIX get a QNIX/, dell doesn't make a comparable monitor. also, "safe" is all relative, people have been burned on ebay. there is a reason why the price is so low, these monitors are likely to have defects there is no guarantee.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Exactly, if you want a QNIX get a QNIX/, dell doesn't make a comparable monitor. also, "safe" is all relative, people have been burned on ebay, there is a reason why the price is so low.


That is why you get a square trade if possible and have seller communication. Even with a square trade the price is relatively vast from a name brand monitor. Safe is relative but we are on "overclock.net" taking risk is where its at here









EDIT: Defects are a possibility but there has been plenty of people with no reported defects and/or just having backlight bleed(which can happen with name brand as well). For example mine had NO defects at all and the backlight bleed was easily fixed with the backlight bleed "fix"


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> That is why you get a square trade if possible and have seller communication. Even with a square trade the price is relatively vast from a name brand monitor. Safe is relative but we are on "overclock.net" taking risk is where its at here


i'm talking about the incidents where people have either received DOA monitors or extremely bad ones and were SOL. I suppose you could buy square trade, then wait a period of time and send it to them to try to get your money back. again, everything has a price, to some (myself included) that's not an appealing way to buy $300 item.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> i'm talking about the incidents where people have either received DOA monitors or extremely bad ones and were SOL. I suppose you could buy square trade, then wait a period of time and send it to them to try to get your money back. again, everything has a price, to some (myself included) that's not an appealing way to buy $300 item.


Agreed, but you are not buying a 300 dollar item, you are buying a 1200 dollar item for 300(more if you include any refresh rate bumps).

EDIT: Actually looks like you can get them for closer to 900-1000 now name brand.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=558287&SRCCODE=WEBGOOPA&cm_mmc_o=mH4CjC7BBTkwCjCV1-CjCE&gclid=CIuF9tbK5LgCFTFgMgodZBYArQ


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Agreed, but you are not buying a 300 dollar item, you are buying a 1200 dollar item for 300(more if you include any refresh rate bumps).


totally agree on the true value, maybe not as high as $1200 provided the bezel/A- panel







, im more responding to the notion that people are being crapped on for wanting to pay a little extra to have assurance that they can return a monitor they don't want. ebay just isn't for everyone in the market for one of these. i think it's actually good that there are alternatives because it adds competition, they have to compete with price, and ebayers have to consider their return policy/lack thereof.

edit:
also, i wish people would stop coming on here fishing for basic advice, seems like the rest of us have made up our minds and moved on. I read through nearly this entire thread to make up my mind, why can't the others (instead of posting large BOLDED questions to get attention). just saying


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> totally agree on the true value, maybe not as high as $1200 provided the bezel/A- panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , im more responding to the notion that people are being crapped on for wanting to pay a little extra to have assurance that the can return a monitor they don't want. ebay just isn't for everyone in the market for one of these. i think it's actually good that there are alternatives because it adds competition, they have to compete with price, and ebayers have to consider their return policy/lack thereof.
> 
> edit:
> also, i wish people would stop coming on here fishing for basic advice, seems like the rest of us have made up our minds and moved on. I read through nearly this entire thread to make up my mind, why can't the others (instead of posted large BOLDED questions to get attention). just saying


Agreed, These and name brands have there own markets. I personally recommend ditching the bezel it is a piece of crap compared to any other monitor really(maybe some HANNs monitors are close LOL). The A- is the gamble part that everyone MUST read the OP before purchase so they know this. It may be completely fine and have a offset gamma that got it the A- sticker or it could be a mess of stuck pixels(that PP doesn't cover). That is why it is imperative to read research and make sure this is a good deal for said person. I also always tell people to communicate with the Ebay seller and look into warranty alternatives for ANYTHING on Ebay over a certain amount(100 seems like a good bar to not cross)

EDIT: Definitely and on top of that they have slammed long running members for telling them to read. I mean in terms of basic forum use it is pretty standard to AT LEAST read the OP and do a little term searching.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> True, but I was more making a point of trying to keep the price as low on these as possible is what this is all about. That is why most buy directly at the source (sort of) in SK


I want a 2560x1440 monitor that can do 120hz without any problems (dead pixels, BLB, etc.). Can any Dell monitor do this? Can the eBay sellers do this?

Afaik, no, so the only choice here is ipsledmonitors. Pay the premium to have a guaranteed 120hz monitor, and if not then free returns.


----------



## trasixes

Received my X-star a few days ago, and wow! This is my first 1440p monitor so that in itself is amazing, but it also arrived in only 2 days, and with very minimal BLB, and no dead pixels. As icing on the cake, I've gone as high as 120hz with no problems at all.


----------



## Moragg

I read (well, skimmed) both this thread and the other one completely before buying mine - sure, it took a few hours, but I didn't have to repeatedly ask the same things to people tired of answering them.


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barc0de*
> 
> Ok, my Paypal account was used (not sure if hacked or just racked charges on my CC) and nearly $3000 has been charged all to Korean names just about a week after my purchase. This is the only transaction through Paypal I have done in 3 months. Pretty damn sure my CC got around, I bought from *!BEWARE! dream-seller* *!BEWARE!* I am only praying they haven't been through my bank account (can't access it right now to check, online banking down atm) and being thankful I used my CC rather than a direct withdrawal.


Well, that just confirmed it for me. I don't trust ebay enough to order one of these. Gonna go with ipsledmonitors. At least they'd be easier to go after, being in the US.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I read (well, skimmed) both this thread and the other one completely before buying mine - sure, it took a few hours, but I didn't have to repeatedly ask the same things to people tired of answering them.


LOL i could almost rep you for this comment.


----------



## sdemetri

After reading ALL the pages in this very informational and friendly forum thread, i decided to go with Qnix QX 2710 Evolution II from Amazon/MNW Global. Monitor arrived in 4 days in my country EU/Greece, and was delivered to me with little BLB (- bottom center portion of the screen-) which i fixed 100% by applying pressure on the metal frame that holds the LCD panel with the use of a cylinder i created with electrical tape between the outer crappy bezel and a special spot i found was the cause of trouble on the afformentioned metal frame! So No more BLB for me, monitor has perfect colors by using Dell's U2713HM sRGB color profile and runs at 120 Hz no prob with Toasty's well known driver patch. Very happy with my purchase even if it cost me 329$ plus 100$ customs import taxes! I highly recommend it over Dell U2713Hm which i had on my desk for months and sold it cause couldn't stand it anymore (- very slow for me in gaming and everyday use, overshoot, crosshatching, yellow tint BLB e.t.c-)


----------



## $ilent

Anyone had one of these monitors for a while? Just trying to gauge how long they will last, especially the overclocked ones.

Do these korean sellers offer warranty also?


----------



## sdemetri

And here is a photo of my brand new QniX for the Club ...


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> LOL i could almost rep you for this comment.


Wait, reps aren't for helping people?







must change my get reps strategy...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Anyone had one of these monitors for a while? Just trying to gauge how long they will last, especially the overclocked ones.
> 
> Do these korean sellers offer warranty also?


Korean sellers offer 1 month with them, the manufacturers supposedly offer another 11 months afterwards. Don't count on either, esp as you'll still have to pay for shipping to Korea and back.

With regards to OCing damaging the monitor - not sure, I don't think it would as long as you weren't pushing every last Hz out of your monitor. And people have had OCs running for months and been fine, and I haven't heard of Catleap 2Bs suddenly dying, but I wouldn't expect anything.

If you get ST warranty that could cover you, but I spoke to them and they said the mods for BLB fix and panel play aren't manufacturer approved so they can't cover you if you want to do those.


----------



## OneGun

According to This Vid this monitor DOES not use PWM backlighting..


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> According to This Vid this monitor DOES not use PWM backlighting..


I just knocked mine down to the absolute lowest brightness setting and the flickering is definitely there (not huge, but there). But 1 step up and it isn't noticeable, above 2 steps I cannot see anything.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Anyone had one of these monitors for a while? Just trying to gauge how long they will last, especially the overclocked ones.
> 
> Do these korean sellers offer warranty also?


I have had mine for the better part of 6 months overclocked 120hz(and higher) 24/7 no problems.


----------



## ShakDiesel

Does squaretrade pay for return shipping? Also if you get a bad monitor (low oc, several dead pixels) is that reason enough to claim with squaretrade, or does it have to be an actual defect?


----------



## RemagCP

Do you get any burn in, Spartan?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Do you get any burn in, Spartan?


After LOADS of testing with timings, cables, video ports and driver settings i have managed to not get burn-in or more appropriately color retention unless i have a light blue or grey on the screen. For some reason the monitor hates light blue and grey LOL. To counter any screen retention you can easily set a quick screensaver timeout that sets your screen back to 60hz and rotates white and black full screen every 15-30minutes. This will eliminate any color retention that is there(or not there).

You can get a good screensaver (that is safe) from toastyx's CRU page i believe. It only does black but i modified mine to do black and white in increments. You could also just grab a picture screensaver and set it to just white and black in "X" amount of time but it might be hard to find one that has a refresh rate setting.


----------



## ref

So I'm curious, I'm looking into getting one of these but I got a question in regards to 1440p.

I currently have a 24' 1080p monitor, and dabble with down sampling in games. Is down sampling a good example of how 1440p monitors are going to look if it's native? Because honestly, I really didn't notice that much of a difference in-game down sampled to 1440p other than the aliasing being much better, and some subtle increases in image quality in the distance.

Just curious if that is representative of how it will look with a native 1440p monitor for games.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> So I'm curious, I'm looking into getting one of these but I got a question in regards to 1440p.
> 
> I currently have a 24' 1080p monitor, and dabble with down sampling in games. Is down sampling a good example of how 1440p monitors are going to look if it's native? Because honestly, I really didn't notice that much of a difference in-game down sampled to 1440p other than the aliasing being much better, and some subtle increases in image quality in the distance.
> 
> Just curious if that is representative of how it will look with a native 1440p monitor for games.


NO not at all, having native 1440p native is WAY better than having it downsampled. I know this from experience and testing. For exmaple try getting a 1280x720 monitor and downsample it to 1920x1080, next set it next to a native 1080p monitor. You will see the quality difference.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShakDiesel*
> 
> Does squaretrade pay for return shipping? Also if you get a ****ty monitor (low oc, several dead pixels) is that reason enough to claim with squaretrade, or does it have to be an actual defect?


If you get a monitor that breaks whatever the description on the ebay listing says file a claim with ebay. If a perfectly functioning monitor breaks randomly during normal use, file a ST claim and they should cover everything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Do you get any burn in, Spartan?


I know it's not directed at me, but I've never seen anything more than very minor burn in lasting more than 6 secs.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShakDiesel*
> 
> If you buy sqauretrade for one monitor but have more than one of the korean displays could you abuse any issues that arise with any of the monitors using a single warranty?


Possibly, but they would all need to be exactly the same make - e.g. All Qnix/xtar/other korean brand and all glossy/matte.

However, if there is a unit code on the back I suspect ST would ask for it. Not sure myself, someone who got multiple would have to say if there are any differences on the back sticker.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdemetri*
> 
> 
> 
> And here is a photo of my brand new QniX for the Club ...


Thanks but I don't see you on the members list. Did you fill out the members list application in the OP?


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> After LOADS of testing with timings, cables, video ports and driver settings i have managed to not get burn-in or more appropriately color retention unless i have a light blue or grey on the screen. For some reason the monitor hates light blue and grey LOL. To counter any screen retention you can easily set a quick screensaver timeout that sets your screen back to 60hz and rotates white and black full screen every 15-30minutes. This will eliminate any color retention that is there(or not there).
> 
> You can get a good screensaver (that is safe) from toastyx's CRU page i believe. It only does black but i modified mine to do black and white in increments. You could also just grab a picture screensaver and set it to just white and black in "X" amount of time but it might be hard to find one that has a refresh rate setting.


Ah, thank you for the info!

Also, I can't ever remember retention and not burn in, makes sense, because it goes away.


----------



## frankietown

what do we do if some games arent detecting 100hz?


----------



## Markolc

Hey everyone. I just picked up one of these monitors off of ebay, the QNIX 2710 Matte. I'm coming from 3x1080p eyefinity in portrait that I sat way too close to (small desk) and needed something smaller so I thought the 1440p would be perfect. LOVE the monitor so far. It's very bright (may need to tweak that), not backlight bleed so far that I can tell, and no dead pixels. Now I'm very excited to possibly overclock this monitor. I'm running 3x6970s, which I know will drive this monitor just fine on ultra settings most games at around 60 FPS give or take. But I have read that you can't overclock this monitor when using trifire, is that correct? Am I screwed unless I actually remove a video card? My 6970s are all watercooled, I'd rather not have to remove one and re-do the plumbing in my system, not to mention that I wouldn't have much horsepower left to drive this monitor at 60+ FPS.

So I guess my real question is, can I maybe achieve like a 96 Hz overclock with my tri-fire 6970s? I realize i'll never get 120 Hz because I can't get dual crossfire cables on all the cards, but perhaps a mild overclock could be OK?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankietown*
> 
> what do we do if some games arent detecting 100hz?


You need to create the custom resolution using CRU. The nVidia Control Panel does not create resolutions that are detected as native. Just be sure to uncheck "Include extension block" in the utility before rebooting.

As a side note, some games just suck and seem to set 60hz no matter what. I have yet to find a tool that overrides those situations, so if anyone else knows please chime in.


----------



## sdemetri

My bad ... i forgot to complete the member's form! Ok i will apply now ...


----------



## frankietown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> You need to create the custom resolution using CRU. The nVidia Control Panel does not create resolutions that are detected as native. Just be sure to uncheck "Include extension block" in the utility before rebooting.
> 
> As a side note, some games just suck and seem to set 60hz no matter what. I have yet to find a tool that overrides those situations, so if anyone else knows please chime in.


oh okay. i guess i just have the bad luck on those games. yah most games i have are fine with 100hz. thank you, as long as everything is working as it should


----------



## Bonkers

Well, after reading through the threads and wanting one of these Korean monitors since the Catleaps came out I think I am finally ready to pull the trigger on one this week when I get paid. Would like to hear more about the hacked account and dreamseller fiasco going on with the person above but I'm fairly sure something else is going on with that.. Most people seem to have had great luck with these and seem to love them so I'm hoping all goes well for me.


----------



## givaniro

Just got my Qnix QX2710 with an impressive speed from FedEx, south korea to sweden 3 days! Plugged it straight in and so far no to minimal BLB and no dead pixels the seller i ordered from is AccessoriesWhole. I was recommended this buyer on the forums for his Perfect Pixel deal that many other sellers just use it for extra cash but i was told this guy guarantee a Perfect Pixel screen. So far the recommendation of this seller is true no dead pixels or none to minimal BLB! Great seller with fast and good costumer service and im so happy with my new screen!

EDIT: I know its my first post but i created my account just to add my input as i been online reading the forums for several days


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> You need to create the custom resolution using CRU. The nVidia Control Panel does not create resolutions that are detected as native. Just be sure to uncheck "Include extension block" in the utility before rebooting.
> 
> As a side note, some games just suck and seem to set 60hz no matter what. I have yet to find a tool that overrides those situations, so if anyone else knows please chime in.


I guess games that suck would be a few years old - in which case try http://www.softpedia.com/progDownload/RefreshLock-Download-392.html


----------



## kamaltmo

Just got my X star from dream-seller, this monitor is amazing I had one stuck blue pixel that went away very quickly couldnt be happier







Thanks to the OP and everyone on this forum


----------



## bhazard451

I've had my QNIX since the thread started, and it is every bit as awesome months later as it was in the beginning. Hopefully it kick starts great official 120hz 2560x1440 monitors for the masses, and becomes the norm. I like it more than my previous Korean IPS.


----------



## ColdFlo

Where are these custom timings posts? How about the yamakasi ones...................

Custom timings is the most important information this thread can provide. (man this cadence allegro pcb library install is so annoying wont stop taking foreground window focus)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Markolc*
> 
> LOVE the monitor so far. It's very bright (may need to tweak that)


Just overclock it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bonkers*
> 
> Well, after reading through the threads and wanting one of these Korean monitors since the Catleaps came out I think I am finally ready to pull the trigger on one this week when I get paid. Would like to hear more about the hacked account and dreamseller fiasco going on with the person above but I'm fairly sure something else is going on with that.. Most people seem to have had great luck with these and seem to love them so I'm hoping all goes well for me.


Dreamseller was to be avoided before that even.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> Where are these custom timings posts? How about the yamakasi ones...................
> 
> Custom timings is the most important information this thread can provide. (man this cadence allegro pcb library install is so annoying wont stop taking foreground window focus)


Search for "Lightboost hack".


----------



## HeronKusanagi

Some questions:

1) Apparently one can remove the X-star stem simply by tugging hard on it. Fact or myth?

2) DPort variant, is it ok for PS3 and perhaps using it for TV purposes?


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givaniro*
> 
> Just got my Qnix QX2710 with an impressive speed from FedEx, south korea to sweden 3 days! Plugged it straight in and so far no to minimal BLB and no dead pixels the seller i ordered from is AccessoriesWhole. I was recommended this buyer on the forums for his Perfect Pixel deal that many other sellers just use it for extra cash but i was told this guy guarantee a Perfect Pixel screen. So far the recommendation of this seller is true no dead pixels or none to minimal BLB! Great seller with fast and good costumer service and im so happy with my new screen!
> 
> EDIT: I know its my first post but i created my account just to add my input as i been online reading the forums for several days


cant wait for mine
Decided to get exactly the same one as yours !
shipped today, hopefully it arrive soon


----------



## ColdFlo

I'm not seeing any custom timings on these lightboost hack pages. Im looking for monitor timings like Front Porch Back Porch Total Pixels Horizontal and Vertical tweaked to lower the pixel clock as much as possible without causing blanking issues(which I've never experimented with on lcds timings ive been using crts for the last 13 years) Finally an LCD has come along that I would find worthy of even paying for(and at the correct price) and this CRT God monitor is dying on me. I have another for spare parts but its gonna take a long trip on the work bench before I get it back again so this QNIX arriving today will have to do in the interim. I've seen some claiming they have figured out tweaked timings but they havent been posting their findings. Also hidden within the 500 pages of this thread people claim that yamakasi users posted timings but no links. I searched that thread for keywords but came up dry. There were also mentions of other threads that are not coming up in forum searches. I'm sure they are out there. If someone has them bookmarked please post some samples.


----------



## Rakunvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> totally agree on the true value, maybe not as high as $1200 provided the bezel/A- panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , im more responding to the notion that people are being crapped on for wanting to pay a little extra to have assurance that they can return a monitor they don't want. ebay just isn't for everyone in the market for one of these. i think it's actually good that there are alternatives because it adds competition, they have to compete with price, and ebayers have to consider their return policy/lack thereof.
> 
> edit:
> also, i wish people would stop coming on here fishing for basic advice, seems like the rest of us have made up our minds and moved on. I read through nearly this entire thread to make up my mind, why can't the others (instead of posting large BOLDED questions to get attention). just saying


Here I was thinking a forum was to talk and ask questions on the subject contained therein usually. Even though some people do actually read through the forum and still have questions doesn't mean they're just here for attention. Not everyone is going to feel or share the same views on anything in general, as everyone or someone else. Many people are looking to learn the new information that may not be entirely clear or understood, which usually leads into the person wanting to be sure of their decisions and answers, especially when it comes to more expensive items, more in depth technology, or special/specific circumstances. After all, if people didn't treat everything like this, there wouldn't even be any threads at all.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> I'm not seeing any custom timings on these lightboost hack pages. Im looking for monitor timings like Front Porch Back Porch Total Pixels Horizontal and Vertical tweaked to lower the pixel clock as much as possible without causing blanking issues(which I've never experimented with on lcds timings ive been using crts for the last 13 years) Finally an LCD has come along that I would find worthy of even paying for(and at the correct price) and this CRT God monitor is dying on me. I have another for spare parts but its gonna take a long trip on the work bench before I get it back again so this QNIX arriving today will have to do in the interim. I've seen some claiming they have figured out tweaked timings but they havent been posting their findings. Also hidden within the 500 pages of this thread people claim that yamakasi users posted timings but no links. I searched that thread for keywords but came up dry. There were also mentions of other threads that are not coming up in forum searches. I'm sure they are out there. If someone has them bookmarked please post some samples.


There have been some related posts. I am trying to remember the users. Others who have been in the thread since the near-beginning like OneGun might remember. Spartan F8 or MenacingTuba may know too. I am recalling more avatars than names here though...

Agreed that the thread could use more info/posts like that and a whole lot less OMG GUISE WAT SELLAR AND DO I NED POWUR CORD!?


----------



## Spartan F8

here you guys go.

Timings posts searched for "front porch" in quotes

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3920
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3940

After these couple pages the topic kind of dies off by people going on about when it shipped and when it should be there stuff.

EDIT: you might find a bit more going a few pages back or a few pages forward. Really it is a good topic to get going again but a lot of people don't put any effort into it. They just set it to LCD reduced or custom set it NVCP and don't look back and just deal with side effects they could get rid of.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Thanks. Sounds like dude tried that search string too but hey...

Has the overclocking procedure changed much since latest ToastyX release? Or just don't need the test mode step any longer?


----------



## Coree

Okay, Flashing the white/black screen doesn't help my screen persistance. My last try is to turn of my monitor for 24-48 hours, which allows the pixels to 'reset'. The persistant image (Mozilla's search bar) is located on the upper right corner, and is seen after 20-30mins of browsing the internet.


----------



## Dejam87

without using any programs , I can push it till 133hz but then a blue line appear on the middle of my screen ( using stock cable)

BTW is there any program that test if it's real 120hz for me ? D:

P.S sorry for the bad Language. Also I noticed a burn-in on the high right corner of the monitor after using 120hz for a while, is it normal or what O_O ?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Thanks. Sounds like dude tried that search string too but hey...
> 
> Has the overclocking procedure changed much since latest ToastyX release? Or just don't need the test mode step any longer?


Test mode is no longer needed


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dejam87*
> 
> 
> 
> without using any programs , I can push it till 133hz but then a blue line appear on the middle of my screen ( using stock cable)
> 
> BTW is there any program that test if it's real 120hz for me ? D:
> 
> P.S sorry for the bad Language. Also I noticed a burn-in on the high right corner of the monitor after using 120hz for a while, is it normal or what O_O ?


You can use refreshrate multitool to test the frames. Searching for "refreshrate multitool" in google and it will be one of the first links.

Also the burn-in is actually color retention is normal and will go away. There is a good deal of good information in this thread on how to prevent and/or fix the color retention if you search "burn-in" or "color retention" in this thread.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> didn't work. even did -refresh 120 -freq 120
> 
> 
> 
> Do your displays flicker as if they're changing mode when you launch CS? When using windowed mode it should be totally seamless with no mode changes, and therefore the game has to be using whatever Windows is using. *How are you verifying that CS is not at the correct refresh rate?*
Click to expand...

I have Vsync on. So if my refresh rate is 120, it'll do 120FPS. But I can see a huge difference without on, but it just confirms what I see.

Not sure if they flicker. They do I think when in full screen non window mode.


----------



## Shibuya

Just received mine from greensum and it's beautiful

No dead pixels and minimal light bleed, I thought there was one yesterday but I can no longer see it. Couldn't find anything wrong with it. Good thing I didn't pay for a Pixel Perfect version. SWEET monitor.


----------



## ronquilent

Does anyone know if a single GTX 670 2GB can drive 2 Qnix's @120Hz and a third through an active displayport to dual link adapter @96Hz? My primary concern is that normal multitasking and gaming on one of the 120Hz monitors will hit the VRAM ceiling or max out on GPU power.


----------



## exzacklyright

I hate UPS! I don't hear the doorbell where my room is and he just left a note... so now I got to go to the stupid customer care center tomorrow. #1stworldproblems.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> I have Vsync on. So if my refresh rate is 120, it'll do 120FPS. But I can see a huge difference without on, but it just confirms what I see.
> 
> Not sure if they flicker. They do I think when in full screen non window mode.


Odd, I never use vsync personally but I tried enabling it in CS: GO (set to triple buffered) and it didn't seem to do anything. My framerate was still in the 200's. What happens when you disable vsync?

FWIW, with a refresh rate this high I think tearing is so minimal that it's rarely worth having vsync enabled. It also seems to depend on the game and tearing is more noticeable in some engines. In particular, I think CS looks great with vsync disabled and of course ensures that input lag is minimal which is crucial for a FPS.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Doh! You shoulda preempted with your own note!


----------



## Spartan F8

I got my AMD card in (a 6970 used to be precise) for AMD overdrive testing. I used http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/response_time.php for most of the response time testing. First of all overdrive is mostly not used anymore as with a monitor running under 8-10ms response time the side effects are said to not be worth it due to reduced possible monitor live time and color precision issues. I myself thought it was worth 20 bucks to test on this monitor given its already very good response.

First off the testing method i used was the lagom response time pattern being shot by a high speed camera and refresh rate multitool shot by a high speed camera. The percentages i give are a pixel count from left to right difference in the ghosting effect from each test tool recorded by the camera close enough to see the whole pattern and see the individual pixel with a sharpness increase(which may slightly through off the results but this should be a fraction of a percent or up to 2 pixels, as this is completely indistinguishable to the eye your going to have to bare with me on it)

Stock 100 overdrive gave a 11% difference on average between each color stream in terms of ghosting or response. This is equivalent to the 6.4ms response that was tested in another review(forget the user right now) so the resulting response would be 5.7ms

The 150 overdrive gave a 14% difference in all color bands on average(excluding 80 point grey or blue see below) this is relative to a 5.5ms response from 6.4 stock.

The 200 overdrrive setting just through the monitor into test mode(which took safe mode to fix)

Over my testing i also found that the pixel response is effected just as much by the color retention since light blue or grey gave a anomalous reading ranging up to a 8-11ms response and overdrive made it worse at overclock speeds. After setting the monitor to 60hz the response variance between light grey/blue was almost none existent from the rest of the color spectrum. Not sure what is going on here but it seems the qnix doesn't like light grey/blue(or at least mine).

Overall i could not see any color shift or pixel drag from the resulting pixel overvoltage which does show a good power regulation throughout the panel. Ultimately i still don't think it is worth the risk to go from 6.4ms to 5.7ms.

Hope someone found this interesting and i will be selling a 6970 LOL


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Does anyone know if a single GTX 670 2GB can drive 2 Qnix's @120Hz and a third through an active displayport to dual link adapter @96Hz? My primary concern is that normal multitasking and gaming on one of the 120Hz monitors will hit the VRAM ceiling or max out on GPU power.


I have two GTX570s in SLI. Over GPU power is pretty strained to keep 1 Qnix at 120hz. Given that a 670 is about 150% of a 570 you are likely relatively close to my performance. The extra memoy is good if you were talking about one Qnix as i do see VRAM over-utilization but for 3 Qnix's would be outright bottlenecked both in VRAM and GPU power with 1 670. At 1440p 2GB of VRAM is recommended so for 3 Qnix monitors you theoretically would need 6GB to support the texture size at that resolution. With this being said a titan or 780 in SLI would be advisable for 3 monitors at 1440p and even then 120hz will not be possible in some games or situations.


----------



## Shock96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> I hate UPS! I don't hear the doorbell where my room is and he just left a note... so now I got to go to the stupid customer care center tomorrow. #1stworldproblems.


Why is it UPS's fault that you can't hear the doorbell?


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shock96*
> 
> Why is it UPS's fault that you can't hear the doorbell?


because they don't read the note that says "KNOCK ON THE SIDE DOOR" nor leave the package when the note said to leave it.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> because they don't read the note that says "KNOCK ON THE SIDE DOOR" nor leave the package when the note said to leave it.


Although i agree it is pretty lazy of the individual, there is no policy that holds delivery drivers liable to folow any directions that are not attached to the package upon shipment. Therefor however lazy it may have been he didn't do anything "wrong". USPS and FedEx internal policies are the same or worse(in reference to this topic). I know as the company i work for uses all of them.


----------



## ronquilent

Ok, I just received my matte Qnix about 20mins ago. No dead pixels or BLB and went straight to 120Hz. I have tried all of the 120Hz profiles floating around and in the OP and the color is still really warm and yellow. This is a bit scary since my Shimian is dead on the white point and is much more blue relative to the Qnix. Is there anything I can do or am I doing something wrong? I'm quite worried as to why all of the color profiles I've tried don't calibrate the white point to 6500K like my Shimian is at.


----------



## ColdFlo

So I will probably update this post as I feel I should make comparisons between this monitor which I am going to dub the God LCD at least for someone like me and compare it to the God CRT the Sony GDM-FW900 vs the QNIX QX2710(jet black bezel is better for movies in my book).

Overall the picture quality and color reproduction of the CRT are unmatched due in part to the invisible aperture grill and the nature of the diffusion of the electron gun beam through the space of the vacuum tube which is the feature I feared most moving to this QNIX but this has not been the case it is extremely hard to make out the pixels on this screen as on the FW900(the aperture grill is more apparent in games) and the text is superiorly readable just as stated by tek syndicate on their youtube channel but this is not where the QNIX truly shines it shines the most in video playback and I have watched Oblivion 1080P at a very high bitrate/quality x264 stream and it was more enjoyable than the fw900 mostly because of the size and the geometric uniformity of the panel and because the natural shading and grain of film is somewhat obscured and enhanced by the backlight LCD effect which is how film is supposed to be projected through a film onto a screen which is what an lcd is albeit in a far more compact configuration. The GDM-FW900 CRT is too precise for video and even tho it is the most pixel dense CRT I have ever seen and its response is very fast it is not as fast as the QNIX which owes its speed to its internal rendering chips which is an aspect of monitors seldom read about in commercial or ametuer reviews the various chips that make up the pixel engine giving the QNIX the upper hand in overall response time even tho the individual pixels of the monitor will never match the speed of the electron gun beam on phosphors. The CRT shows too many flaws in the source material and it comes off looking creamy and cheap and too much on the surface of the screen while the LCD has an interesting amount of depth to its rendering and while the QNIX with its increased size and resolution overall shows more detail it is not more detailed per unit area like the CRT.

When it comes to gaming and general OS usage the GDM-FW900 is the clear winner the webpages, static images, documents, wallpaper all render more realistically(better color reproduction) on the flat paper like surface of glowing milky phosphors smoothed by the diffusion of the electron gun beam at super high resolution and pixel density. This is most evident in what I am currently thinking should have the graphics crown Borderlands 2. With SweetFX enabled Borderlands 2 becomes moving art on a CRT the milky sheet of phosphors paper effect and SweetFX anti-aliasing really fool the mind as you watch the mountains in the distance grow in size with pixel perfect precision on approach. Walking around in the game feels seamless continuous smooth creamy no holes no empty space just pure continuous graphics drawn as if by a Japanese lithographer glowing Eridium and E-tech bullets shimmer and glow an effect which seems to be lost on the LCD and the aperture grill becomes very obvious on the LCD but once again the offsetting saving grace of the QNIX, its shear size, continues to make gaming immersive and its faster overall response time due to the smaller lithography of its internal pixel processors which make the dynamic images more rapid in many interesting and intriguing ways. The QNIX upon its introduction appears in the mind to be 2x the size of the FW900 but in reality is probably closer to 1.5x the size in overall area or possibly 1.33 now looking it up on a chart. The pitfals of the QNIX are its geometric uniformity and LCD backlight that introduce the most distracting artifacts into the image. The most distracting and destructive of all on Borderlands 2 are the horizontal aliasing due to vertical pixel alignment and because it is a geometric printed screen without an electron gun beam to diffuse and soften the edges there is an panel horizontal aliasing that cannot be removed by the graphics card as the pixel is either one color or another and cannot be a blend of 2 at the same time as a crt can due to beam diffusion. The tearing is far more noticeable and is especially bad on older games with smaller world scale and higher frame rates once again a product of transistors and a digital screen. Another distracting feature of a translucent/parent screen is the swizzle effect of pixel glimmer somewhat below the threshold of conscious perception but is noticeable in the area at the center of the eye's focus intermingling with an imperceptible, except for the swizzle, aperture grill. Over time this can be forgiven as well as the dpi reduction because the extra size and vision realestate still allows faster and more consuming immersion with eye real estate closer to that of imax and the superior 16:9 aspect ratio.

Another fear I had was game playability and this topic of ghosting. Now upon receiving the panel this is no longer a concern(all of these observations have been at 60hz). People in the lightboost monitor clubs and postings all make it seem that only a lightboost monitor is capable of pulling off a flick rail in quake live(not even quake 3 once again my noob detector is alight) and all I have to say about that is to call bullcrap. I was pulling flick rails in Borderlands 2 CS GO Quake 3 Quake2 and the only thing bad about it is the screen tearing which sadly is unavoidable on LCD without some form of VSync. I could make out all the frames inbetween(nothing even close or as bad as motion blur) no horrible gray mush as would be encountered on early LCDs. Sure there was some ghosting in there but let me tell you even phosphors have a major ghosting effect. I have a few Sony CRTS and they all ghost probably even more so than this QNIX because it is a fact of phosphor glow physics. Just because the QNIX ghost is a digital artifact of a transistor screen emulating the line by line rendering a CRT does not mean it is very noticeable or a major factor in your PC gaming experience. Sure when you turn your camera up to 30 to 60 frames per second and play it back in slow motion you can see the difference and because humans can perceive differences in frame rate qualities into the hundreds or thousands of frames or even possibly hundreds of thousands does not mean you can perceive individual frames flying by at 60 frames per second. I don't understand all this fuss about ghosting as on this monitor I don't see any problem at all and I have been gaming for 13 years on the God CRT and am currently Ranked No1 in wins in Crysis 3. Don't let this be a factor in your purchase. I think the superior image quality of IPS/PLS color rendition are the deciding factor and now am confident that my gut made all the right decisions in chosing this monitor to move forward in my hardware acquisitions of ever increasing quality.

So In summary and to be updated at higher refresh rates. The advantage of the QNIX is size and resolution giving an overall higher perceived detail especially in film but the apparence of the aperture grill in games kills this detail effect(I'm also starting to think 27 inches 16:9 is a more appropritate desktop screen size and configuration) The QNIX LCD projection film effect is also superior for video; size with comparable high density resolution are its strong suits. Its' geometric uniformity is also interesting and disorienting(in an interesting new detail kind of way not disorienting as in nauseated or unwanted) especially at the edges of the screen for those used to the CRT fishbowl effect. The Sony GDM-FW900 is still the overall DPI champ tho its smaller screen seems to make its scenes diminutive and its creamy phosphors provide a superior desktop and paper effect this same effect is inferior when it comes to film and cheapens media player classic home cinema. The CRT electron gun beam diffusion also provides for a smoother image while still providing incredible detail lessening the need for aliasing and completely outclassing the digial horizontal aliasing effect of a digital screen with vertically aligned pixels, which cannot be at the edge of a beam diffusion having a gradient across the pixel it must be one color or another creating aliasing at the edges of contrasting lines. The QNIXs much faster pixel chips completely outclass the internal rendering of the Sony with its 13 year older technology. No doubt the QNIX has superior internal codecs whether they be hardware or software that add cleaner focus, overall clarity and transparency, superior speed, and overall latency reduction(in the internal logic space of the monitor). It is very interesting because each of these monitors is the opposite at varying levels of abstraction of its function but overall in the end come out comparable even with a 13 year gap in release. To finish the CRT vs LCD debate I just need the impossible, a 27" 2560x1440 crt with enhanced internals, but this will never happen because Mitsubishi used to make the tubes and this tooling has been scrapped plus it is far more expensive to ship a CRT tube. The GDM-FW900 feels like it weighs 100 pounds(talk of the depth of a crt monitor is for noobs, besides I'm sure most of you have nerd headsets and when do you ever look at the back of the monitor just get out already and go buy a mac so you can look pretty in a movie). Also focusing a beam at a 27inch screen size at that resolution is not easy and was quite a feat on the FW.

Sorry for long post but my eyes getting screwed by the new GOD Scrane.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barc0de*
> 
> Ok, my Paypal account was used (not sure if hacked or just racked charges on my CC) and nearly $3000 has been charged all to Korean names just about a week after my purchase. This is the only transaction through Paypal I have done in 3 months. Pretty damn sure my CC got around, I bought from *!BEWARE! dream-seller* *!BEWARE!* I am only praying they haven't been through my bank account (can't access it right now to check, online banking down atm) and being thankful I used my CC rather than a direct withdrawal.


Hmmm that sucks, I am loving my purchase with dream-seller, only thing that sucked with dream-seller that it took forever to make it in the states and he didn't bubble wrap the outside of the box but no biggie no holes in box or any damage to the monitor. My Qnix had very small BLB but I fixed that with the tape mod and now I hardly notice the BLB and I put on a vesa mount stand and got the monitor overclocked 110Hz anything over 110 and I get lines no dead or stuck pixels, I'm pretty happy games look amazing with this monitor.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> So I will probably update this post as I feel I should make comparisons between this monitor which I am going to dub the God LCD at least for someone like me and compare it to the God CRT the Sony GDM-FW900 vs the QNIX QX2710(jet black bezel is better for movies in my book).
> 
> Overall the picture quality and color reproduction of the CRT are unmatched due in part to the invisible aperture grill and the nature of the diffusion of the electron gun beam through the space of the vacuum tube which is the feature I feared most moving to this QNIX but this has not been the case it is extremely hard to make out the pixels on this screen as on the FW900(the aperture grill is more apparent in games) and the text is superiorly readable just as stated by tek syndicate on their youtube channel but this is not where the QNIX truly shines it shines the most in video playback and I have watched Oblivion 1080P at a very high bitrate/quality x264 stream and it was more enjoyable than the fw900 mostly because of the size and the geometric uniformity of the panel and because the natural shading and grain of film is somewhat obscured and enhanced by the backlight LCD effect which is how film is supposed to be projected through a film onto a screen which is what an lcd is albeit in a far more compact configuration. The GDM-FW900 CRT is too precise for video and even tho it is the most pixel dense CRT I have ever seen and its response is very fast it is not as fast as the QNIX which owes its speed to its internal rendering chips which is an aspect of monitors seldom read about in commercial or ametuer reviews the various chips that make up the pixel engine giving the QNIX the upper hand in overall response time even tho the individual pixels of the monitor will never match the speed of the electron gun beam on phosphors. The CRT shows too many flaws in the source material and it comes off looking creamy and cheap and too much on the surface of the screen while the LCD has an interesting amount of depth to its rendering and while the QNIX with its increased size and resolution overall shows more detail it is not more detailed per unit area like the CRT.
> 
> When it comes to gaming and general OS usage the GDM-FW900 is the clear winner the webpages, static images, documents, wallpaper all render more realistically(better color reproduction) on the flat paper like surface of glowing milky phosphors smoothed by the diffusion of the electron gun beam at super high resolution and pixel density. This is most evident in what I am currently thinking should have the graphics crown Borderlands 2. With SweetFX enabled Borderlands 2 becomes moving art on a CRT the milky sheet of phosphors paper effect and SweetFX anti-aliasing really fool the mind as you watch the mountains in the distance grow in size with pixel perfect precision on approach. Walking around in the game feels seamless continuous smooth creamy no holes no empty space just pure continuous graphics drawn as if by a Japanese lithographer glowing Eridium and E-tech bullets shimmer and glow an effect which seems to be lost on the LCD and the aperture grill becomes very obvious on the LCD but once again the offsetting saving grace of the QNIX, its shear size, continues to make gaming immersive and its faster overall response time due to the smaller lithography of its internal pixel processors which make the dynamic images more rapid in many interesting and intriguing ways. The QNIX upon its introduction appears in the mind to be 2x the size of the FW900 but in reality is probably closer to 1.5x the size in overall area or possibly 1.33 now looking it up on a chart. The pitfals of the QNIX are its geometric uniformity and LCD backlight that introduce the most distracting artifacts into the image. The most distracting and destructive of all on Borderlands 2 are the horizontal aliasing due to vertical pixel alignment and because it is a geometric printed screen without an electron gun beam to diffuse and soften the edges there is an panel horizontal aliasing that cannot be removed by the graphics card as the pixel is either one color or another and cannot be a blend of 2 at the same time as a crt can due to beam diffusion. The tearing is far more noticeable and is especially bad on older games with smaller world scale and higher frame rates once again a product of transistors and a digital screen. Another distracting feature of a translucent/parent screen is the swizzle effect of pixel glimmer somewhat below the threshold of conscious perception but is noticeable in the area at the center of the eye's focus intermingling with an imperceptible, except for the swizzle, aperture grill. Over time this can be forgiven as well as the dpi reduction because the extra size and vision realestate still allows faster and more consuming immersion with eye real estate closer to that of imax and the superior 16:9 aspect ratio.
> 
> Another fear I had was game playability and this topic of ghosting. Now upon receiving the panel this is no longer a concern(all of these observations have been at 60hz). People in the lightboost monitor clubs and postings all make it seem that only a lightboost monitor is capable of pulling off a flick rail in quake live(not even quake 3 once again my noob detector is alight) and all I have to say about that is to call bullcrap. I was pulling flick rails in Borderlands 2 CS GO Quake 3 Quake2 and the only thing bad about it is the screen tearing which sadly is unavoidable on LCD without some form of VSync. I could make out all the frames inbetween(nothing even close or as bad as motion blur) no horrible gray mush as would be encountered on early LCDs. Sure there was some ghosting in there but let me tell you even phosphors have a major ghosting effect. I have a few Sony CRTS and they all ghost probably even more so than this QNIX because it is a fact of phosphor glow physics. Just because the QNIX ghost is a digital artifact of a transistor screen emulating the line by line rendering a CRT does not mean it is very noticeable or a major factor in your PC gaming experience. Sure when you turn your camera up to 30 to 60 frames per second and play it back in slow motion you can see the difference and because humans can perceive differences in frame rate qualities into the hundreds or thousands of frames or even possibly hundreds of thousands does not mean you can perceive individual frames flying by at 60 frames per second. I don't understand all this fuss about ghosting as on this monitor I don't see any problem at all and I have been gaming for 13 years on the God CRT and am currently Ranked No1 in wins in Crysis 3. Don't let this be a factor in your purchase. I think the superior image quality of IPS/PLS color rendition are the deciding factor and now am confident that my gut made all the right decisions in chosing this monitor to move forward in my hardware acquisitions of ever increasing quality.
> 
> So In summary and to be updated at higher refresh rates. The advantage of the QNIX is size and resolution giving an overall higher perceived detail especially in film but the apparence of the aperture grill in games kills this detail effect(I'm also starting to think 27 inches 16:9 is a more appropritate desktop screen size and configuration) The QNIX LCD projection film effect is also superior for video; size with comparable high density resolution are its strong suits. Its' geometric uniformity is also interesting and disorienting(in an interesting new detail kind of way not disorienting as in nauseated or unwanted) especially at the edges of the screen for those used to the CRT fishbowl effect. The Sony GDM-FW900 is still the overall DPI champ tho its smaller screen seems to make its scenes diminutive and its creamy phosphors provide a superior desktop and paper effect this same effect is inferior when it comes to film and cheapens media player classic home cinema. The CRT electron gun beam diffusion also provides for a smoother image while still providing incredible detail lessening the need for aliasing and completely outclassing the digial horizontal aliasing effect of a digital screen with vertically aligned pixels, which cannot be at the edge of a beam diffusion having a gradient across the pixel it must be one color or another creating aliasing at the edges of contrasting lines. The QNIXs much faster pixel chips completely outclass the internal rendering of the Sony with its 13 year older technology. No doubt the QNIX has superior internal codecs whether they be hardware or software that add cleaner focus, overall clarity and transparency, superior speed, and overall latency reduction(in the internal logic space of the monitor). It is very interesting because each of these monitors is the opposite at varying levels of abstraction of its function but overall in the end come out comparable even with a 13 year gap in release. To finish the CRT vs LCD debate I just need the impossible, a 27" 2560x1440 crt with enhanced internals, but this will never happen because Mitsubishi used to make the tubes and this tooling has been scrapped plus it is far more expensive to ship a CRT tube. The GDM-FW900 feels like it weighs 100 pounds(talk of the depth of a crt monitor is for noobs, besides I'm sure most of you have nerd headsets and when do you ever look at the back of the monitor just get out already and go buy a mac so you can look pretty in a movie). Also focusing a beam at a 27inch screen size at that resolution is not easy and was quite a feat on the FW.
> 
> Sorry for long post but my eyes getting screwed by the new GOD Scrane.


Awesome feedback from CRT...was a bit long but so are my posts lol.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Finally got my Qnix (matte). Ordered Wednesday from ipsledmonitors.com and received it today (Monday). But it was shipped from South Korea, not California.



No dead pixels. Overclocked to 120hz without any fuss, although the colors did seem sort of wrong/washed when overclocked? Ended up using Windows color management and upped the gamma.

Minimal backlight bleed, although I guess at this point I'm used to it. There is a small smudge in the bottom right corner. Hard to notice unless you're looking for it, but slightly annoying when you do find it. Not sure how to take an accurate picture of it, and not sure what to do about it either. Would opening up the monitor do anything?

Also I'm using their bundled DVI cable.


----------



## ronquilent

Can someone please tell me if it's normal for the entire monitor to have a reddish/warm hue despite trying every ICC profile on this thread and on google for the QNIX? Is this from another batch of panels which I need to calibrate differently/manually?


----------



## bxchef29

My [Perfect Pixel] FREE EXPRESS X-STAR DP2710LED 27" 2560x1440 Samsung PLS "Matte" just arrived today and looks great it was 308.00 + 49.99 for a 3 year warranty, I am very pleased so far but haven't tried oc it partly cause I don't know how to. However I was playing Mortal kombat and it did not give me the option of 2560x1440 res, Can I fix that? anyway heres a pic


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Can someone please tell me if it's normal for the entire monitor to have a reddish/warm hue despite trying every ICC profile on this thread and on google for the QNIX? Is this from another batch of panels which I need to calibrate differently/manually?


ICC profiles are mostly per monitor as each monitor is slightly different. It is normal for the monitor to potentially have a slight hue in any direction. It will also have a bit better blacks than IPS which can cause a more creamy look on the IPS panel and a more warn look on the Qnix. That part may never completely go away. I also did not have too much luck with the posted ICC profiles. In this instance yes you will likely have to calibrate manually either with windows color management, drivers or a professional colorometer. This site is the best calibration site to go by for the most part and the rest of it will be your personal preference http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

All monitors are different when it comes to color hue and correction yours just didn't closely match anyone else's that posted a ICC profile no reason to get un-settled.

EDIT: I recommend using the drivers as many games ignore ICC profiles anyway. It is not that hard to get really close. If you are really worried about color correction go PRO and get a spyder calibrator otherwise get as close as possible with driver calibration and that website + your preference.

EDIT2: Lastly to change the color ration from each color adjust the brightness of the color that is overpowering the screen down by itself.


----------



## ronquilent

I think I'll just invest in an i1 Display Pro and manually calibrate. I just tweaked the settings with windows display color calibration and a few minutes of naked eye tweaking of the RGB values made the colors look way better. I think I got lucky with the Shimian profile which was actually for the Catleap but this time I'll have to go for it manually.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> I think I'll just invest in an i1 Display Pro and manually calibrate. I just tweaked the settings with windows display color calibration and a few minutes of naked eye tweaking of the RGB values made the colors look way better. I think I got lucky with the Shimian profile which was actually for the Catleap but this time I'll have to go for it manually.


You may have but after using that website and a few others doing it manually i found i was not too lucky and actually the colors could have been a LOT better before. Didn't know till a tried. With this in mind you might be in for a nice surprise when you get that color adjustment tool and calibrate the shimian also.


----------



## bxchef29

just Oc ed my monitor to 100 , thanks forum super easy


----------



## nuttybars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Does anyone know if a single GTX 670 2GB can drive 2 Qnix's @120Hz and a third through an active displayport to dual link adapter @96Hz? My primary concern is that normal multitasking and gaming on one of the 120Hz monitors will hit the VRAM ceiling or max out on GPU power.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1415441/7680x1440-benchmarks-plus-2-3-4-way-sli-gk110-scaling


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nuttybars*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1415441/7680x1440-benchmarks-plus-2-3-4-way-sli-gk110-scaling


Thanks. Currently I'm running 2 1440p Shimians @60Hz and the new Qnix @120Hz. I For gaming 3 120hz monitors definitely won't work a single GTX 670 2GB as Spartan F8 said, however 2 @120Hz and another one at 96Hz for regular desktop stuff + light video watching should be fine. I'll inevitably have to upgrade or go SLI sooner or later though.

Side note: I hate my 60hz Shimians in comparison to the 120Hz smoothness of the QNIX. Almost the difference of day and night.


----------



## nuttybars

I wouldn't know. Ordered mine from greensum on Wednesday last week and it still hasn't shipped.... I've sent him 2 messages and he guaranteed would ship Monday first thing in the morning when his supplier came back from vacation. He also said he'd message me. If I don't see an update by midnight I'm sending another message.


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nuttybars*
> 
> I wouldn't know. Ordered mine from greensum on Wednesday last week and it still hasn't shipped.... I've sent him 2 messages and he guaranteed would ship Monday first thing in the morning when his supplier came back from vacation. He also said he'd message me. If I don't see an update by midnight I'm sending another message.


That's strange. Bought mine from green-sum on Wednesday too and it shipped out on Thursday of last week.


----------



## Roybattius

After a whole bunch of hassle with a DOA qx2710 from one of the ebay seller, I received my qx2710 from ipsledmonitors.com. At least this one powered on when plugged in, but I was having huge driver issues in the beginning. I finally got it straightened out, and it's working great (no dead pixels from what i can tell). Overclocked it to 96hz for a start. Kyle over at ipsledmonitors.com is great at customer service.


----------



## ronquilent

Anyone know what to do about the random blue lines that show up at random times? Is it just a cable thing? Should I get the 24AWG monoprice cable to solve the issue?


----------



## Roybattius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nuttybars*
> 
> I wouldn't know. Ordered mine from greensum on Wednesday last week and it still hasn't shipped.... I've sent him 2 messages and he guaranteed would ship Monday first thing in the morning when his supplier came back from vacation. He also said he'd message me. If I don't see an update by midnight I'm sending another message.


My DOA QX2710 came from green-sum. The time difference (and maybe other things) was killing the communication bandwidth. I would email him/her and then he/she would send me an email back at about 2 in the morning my time. I would reply when I woke up, and the whole cycle would continue again the next early morning.

It was a pretty bad experience that turned out ok when I finally just initiated a chargeback. That's when she finally decided that she better pay for the return shipping.


----------



## Opentoilet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Anyone know what to do about the random blue lines that show up at random times? Is it just a cable thing? Should I get the 24AWG monoprice cable to solve the issue?


Thats OC instability. I have the samething, with different colors. It goes away as soon as I downclock.


----------



## Stylook

Hi,

Thanks to this forum, I could decide to get an alternative monitor which I believe to be fantastic value. I got the Qnix QX2710 and thanks to Outlawed for his recommendations.

Just to inform you guys what I used to overclock:

1. NVCP - under customs to test frequencies, 97hz, 110hz, 115hz and 120hz. The selections were all shown under customs.

2. Precision X - I am not sure what it will do, but in any case I just move the slider of the Pixel clock. Whatever I selected in the NVCP it will shown on the Pixel Clock slider, so I don't think I need to do anything else right? So, I didn't really need to adjust the Precision Pixel Clock.

3. Catleap 2b inf file - I installed this on generic monitor under device manager.

Thats it, so far in BF3 the 120hz selection is shown, playing it was real fun now everything looks very clear from a distance lol. L.A. Noire also has that selection of 120hz, it really looks great.

However, I am having problem with SC2, I am using GTX 690. If I select, in the NVCP for disabled all monitors and select PhyX auto, the game started out fine in 120hz, but when I select in the NVCP 3D mode for dual GPU functionality, SC2 just could not start properly and I have to close the SC2 window under desktop after contrl-alt-del. Anyone with this problem? I would like to use dual gpu functionality if possible for the SC2.









Thank you.


----------



## astarbllr

Just received my QNIX2710 and I was pretty excited about it. No obvious dead pixels and backlight bleeding is not too bad either. The screen had some dust so I decided to clean it, and I noticed near the bottom left, right about where the taskbar is in windows, there is writing on the screen, it's an upside down "10T." I'd say it's in a 20 or 30 pt font, it's pretty big. I'm not sure if this is on the screen or on the matte coating, but now that I saw it I can't unsee it. It does cause some weird reflecting/rainbow effect when I have the monitor powered on too. Has anyone else seen that with their monitor? I'm thinking of asking for a refund... dead pixels is one thing but I figured the monitor screen wouldn't have any defects.


----------



## Shibuya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *astarbllr*
> 
> Just received my QNIX2710 and I was pretty excited about it. No obvious dead pixels and backlight bleeding is not too bad either. The screen had some dust so I decided to clean it, and I noticed near the bottom left, right about where the taskbar is in windows, there is writing on the screen, it's an upside down "10T." I'd say it's in a 20 or 30 pt font, it's pretty big. I'm not sure if this is on the screen or on the matte coating, but now that I saw it I can't unsee it. It does cause some weird reflecting/rainbow effect when I have the monitor powered on too. Has anyone else seen that with their monitor? I'm thinking of asking for a refund... dead pixels is one thing but I figured the monitor screen wouldn't have any defects.


I'm guessing you've tried cleaning it off? IF it doesn't come off then yeah, I would definitely contact the seller


----------



## N3C14R

I got my "Perfect Pixel" x-star dp2710 and there was a stuck blue pixel 1 inch from the left edge of the screen. Not sure if it's enough to warrant an RMA though...


----------



## Kwisatz

Hullo lads and lasses,

I registered because this forum is awesome and I wanted to say thanks for all the info that is collected in here!
But I also wanted to give a mild warning to impatient ppl such as myself. I purchased an X-Star from dream-seller early Monday morning korean time, to be delivered to Germany. Since it wasn't even shipped as of now and dream-seller claims "shipping the same day" I wrote a mail asking if I could expect my monitor to be shipped within the next day. This is what I got:

_Hallo __________________,

dream-seller ist bis zum 10/08/2013 nicht erreichbar und kann nicht auf Ihre Nachricht antworten.

Nachricht von dream-seller:
Hello. Thank you for your message









I am very sorry to say this but the response is delaying because some of our staffs are having holiday in this week and high volume of messages.

We are very sorry about this. Hope you kindly understand this.
We will try our best to response you as soon as possible.

Thank you very much. Have a good day!








Best regards,_

edit: just noticed that the first line is in German, so here is what it says: _dream-seller is out of office until 10/8/2013 and thus unable to respond to your messages._

It's not a big deal really, but it pains me still, since I have to do a lot of writing and juggling with diagrams and tables for my master's thesis atm and I feel very restricted by my ancient 1680*1050 Samsung. And of course I can't wait to play the odd game on 1440p







So, just a quick heads up for the time being...


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> Hullo lads and lasses,
> 
> I registered because this forum is awesome and I wanted to say thanks for all the info that is collected in here!
> But I also wanted to give a mild warning to impatient ppl such as myself. I purchased an X-Star from dream-seller early Monday morning korean time, to be delivered to Germany. Since it wasn't even shipped as of now and dream-seller claims "shipping the same day" I wrote a mail asking if I could expect my monitor to be shipped within the next day. This is what I got:
> 
> _Hallo __________________,
> 
> dream-seller ist bis zum 10/08/2013 nicht erreichbar und kann nicht auf Ihre Nachricht antworten.
> 
> Nachricht von dream-seller:
> Hello. Thank you for your message
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am very sorry to say this but the response is delaying because some of our staffs are having holiday in this week and high volume of messages.
> 
> We are very sorry about this. Hope you kindly understand this.
> We will try our best to response you as soon as possible.
> 
> Thank you very much. Have a good day!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards,_
> 
> edit: just noticed that the first line is in German, so here is what it says: _dream-seller is out of office until 10/8/2013 and thus unable to respond to your messages._
> 
> It's not a big deal really, but it pains me still, since I have to do a lot of writing and juggling with diagrams and tables for my master's thesis atm and I feel very restricted by my ancient 1680*1050 Samsung. And of course I can't wait to play the odd game on 1440p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, just a quick heads up for the time being...


Suck to be you. I'm getting mine today


----------



## Kwisatz

May I inquire if you also bought from dream-seller? You lucky person, you!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> May I inquire if you also bought from dream-seller? You lucky person, you!


Yes I bought from dream seller. I must say it's fun to troll someone a bit


----------



## Kwisatz

Judging by your post history and that you almost lost your nerves over a monitor that didn't arrive instantly I can understand that you now have to vent your frustration on the new guy. Thanks for being so helpful!


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3C14R*
> 
> I got my "Perfect Pixel" x-star dp2710 and there was a stuck blue pixel 1 inch from the left edge of the screen. Not sure if it's enough to warrant an RMA though...


It depends on how much it bothers you. Most of the dead pixels I see just end up being dust particles refracting the light and those are hard to notice.

I would say one dead pixel isn't worth it and it is quite a bit of hassle but as long as their "perfect pixel" policy covers any dead pixels you could RMA it.


----------



## Roybattius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Yes I bought from dream seller. I must say it's fun to troll someone a bit


Yeah, think a little before you post or bad karma might bite you in the ass. Mine arrived DOA. You're not out of the woods yet pal.


----------



## David164v8

Is Bigclothcraft a good seller? I was going to buy from greensum but this guy is slightly cheaper in the UK.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roybattius*
> 
> Yeah, think a little before you post or bad karma might bite you in the ass. Mine arrived DOA. You're not out of the woods yet pal.


also true


----------



## scottw3

I'm about to purchase a QX2710 from green-sum off ebay as well as an MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC video card to run it. One quick question is that the DVI port on this video card is labeled as DVI-I but in the specs it says dual link DVI. This is a higher end card so I was assuming it would run just fine. Can anyone confirm the monitor will run on the DVI port in this card? Thanks!


----------



## ragnarok08

I just got my QX2710 yesterday. I noticed that when the brightness is set to the lowest level (not completely dark), the screen is flickering. Does anyone else notice the same issue? My Dell U2311 doesn't flicker at all at its lowest brightness setting.


----------



## saberX

Hi guys,

For this Qnix/Xtar monitor, what happens when u change the resolution to 1080p via windows 7 desktop? Does it show black bars or does it stretch to fit the screen?
Also wondering the same when playing games.

thnx


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saberX*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> For this Qnix/Xtar monitor, what happens when u change the resolution to 1080p via windows 7 desktop? Does it show black bars or does it stretch to fit the screen?
> Also wondering the same when playing games.
> 
> thnx


The monitor has no built in scaler, so it does whatever your GPU is set to do. By default, that is usually stretching to fit. You can set it to be centered as well.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragnarok08*
> 
> I just got my QX2710 yesterday. I noticed that when the brightness is set to the lowest level (not completely dark), the screen is flickering. Does anyone else notice the same issue? My Dell U2311 doesn't flicker at all at its lowest brightness setting.


I believe it's because the QNIX uses PWM back lightning.


----------



## ragnarok08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> I believe it's because the QNIX uses PWM back lightning.


I thought for PWM the flickering is barely noticeable by human eyes.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragnarok08*
> 
> I thought for PWM the flickering is barely noticeable by human eyes.


PWM flickering is not noticeable at a nomal brightness (120cd/m2). Most people do not set to the lowest brightness, but if you read up on PWM & duty cycle you should see why flickering is more noticeable at the lowest setting.


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> I believe it's because the QNIX uses PWM back lightning.


I notice the pwm backlight flickering all the time on the lowest brightness setting. It's faint, but I can tell it's there. Almost like my eyes are fatigued from staring at a screen for a long and tweaking out a bit.

However, I do not notice it one bump up from the lowest setting. Kinda annoying, but you get what you pay for.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragnarok08*
> 
> I thought for PWM the flickering is barely noticeable by human eyes.


I can't really tell but if i stuff my face in the screen at lowest brightness i can kinda see a flicker. I am really wondering why this is such a big deal? I mean is PWM that bad? I have never had an issue with it that i am aware of and never considered it a make or break variable.

Tell you what i will go over to our marketing development guys today and pull two monitor out that are as much the same as possible aside from PWM and see what i can personally tell. Also i am sure there is some reviews like this on the net elsewhere that can be gone through.

To pinpoint things no one was worried about this or had an issue with it till it was recently brought up. I would also like to see definitive answer on whether it uses it. Heck the flicker could always be something else.


----------



## Spartan F8

Well i found this for the name brand display:

"""""""""""""
"As well as S27A850D , S27B970D also uses quite remarkable combination of lowering voltage and PWM brightness control. Roughly up to 140 cd/m2 is regulated without PWM at lower levels then with PWM, and the frequency is less than 182 Hz. That was not much, if it were only regulated by PWM. When the combined brightness control such frequency would you not mind, perhaps the most sensitive of you maybe."
"""""""""""""

Source
http://extrahardware.cnews.cz/samsung-zpatky-elite-s27b970d-je-stylovy-27-pls-hw-kalibraci/strana/0/10

EDIT: Come to think of it with this information being known, This might be why it overclocks so well but does have side effects. We are pushing the frequency onto this feature thus degrading one aspect to get another(but we kinda sorta knew that already)


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> I believe it's because the QNIX uses PWM back lightning.


Listening to MeancingTuba's review he brings this subject up exactly at *20:23 - 21:35* into the video.

He did not find the monitor to use LED PWM dimming but said another reviewer from Overclock.ru claimed it did use LED PWM dimming and either the other reviewer was wrong, Menacing was wrong or the QNIX may come in either version: one that uses PWM dimming and one that does not.






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ragnarok08*
> 
> I thought for PWM the flickering is barely noticeable by human eyes.


Most people do not see PWM flickering and are not effected by it. However for those people it does effect it can cause nausea, headaches or eye strain when viewing the monitor and it's an issue. Again the percentages are so small that it's not something that is a concern for most users.


----------



## ragnarok08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Listening to MeancingTuba's review he brings this subject up exactly at *20:23 - 21:35* into the video.
> 
> He did not find the monitor to use LED PWM dimming but said another reviewer from Overclock.ru claimed it did use LED PWM dimming and either the other reviewer was wrong, Menacing was wrong or the QNIX may come in either version: one that uses PWM dimming and one that does not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people do not see PWM flickering and are not effected by it. However for those people it does effect it can cause nausea, headaches or eye strain when viewing the monitor and it's an issue. Again the percentages are so small that it's not something that is a concern for most users.


I saw the conflicting information on Internet, too. If everyone has the flickering issue at lowest brightness, then it's probably not an issue. However if it only happens on certain monitors, its a quality issue with the monitor itself.

I had to return my first QX2710 because there is a vertical line to the right of screen running from the bottom all the way to the middle of the screen. I don't want to go through the same hassle again.


----------



## Thegamer2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3C14R*
> 
> I got my "Perfect Pixel" x-star dp2710 and there was a stuck blue pixel 1 inch from the left edge of the screen. Not sure if it's enough to warrant an RMA though...


Stuck pixels can usually be fixed.

Take a cloth or something soft and put it over the stuck pixel then play a video or something so that there is motion on the stuck pixel then with the cloth over the pixel tap it with a pen. You may have to do it pretty hard and try quite a few times but this has always fixed stuck pixels for me.


----------



## DiceAir

I got my monitor today and I must say this is epic. Well worth it and dream seller is the best. They even have a little note in that says thank you for buying and they have opened it to test the monitor. no black light bleed. only problem is my 570sli can't really push over 85Hz.

I can push bf3 at about 70-85FPS with vsync on and on max graphics except aa and post aa. but I running on setting suggested by rival xfactor and game is smooth now


----------



## exzacklyright

Did anyone not get an adapter like this?


Got it all setup to only find out I don't see any adapter :/


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> Did anyone not get an adapter like this?
> 
> 
> Got it all setup to only find out I don't see any adapter :/


Looks like you'll have to send it back...

Just use a US 3-prong cable to connect the adapter to your outlet. That thing doesn't even have a ground pin.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> Did anyone not get an adapter like this?
> 
> 
> Got it all setup to only find out I don't see any adapter :/


That's the adapter I got. They're a dime a dozen on ebay, or you can get them at many stores that have international travel supplies. Not worth returning the monitor, either tell them to ship you an adapter or just try to find one locally.


----------



## exzacklyright

hardly any BBL... 1 dead pixel that I can only see on black backgrounds... not bad so far


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> I have Vsync on. So if my refresh rate is 120, it'll do 120FPS. But I can see a huge difference without on, but it just confirms what I see.
> 
> Not sure if they flicker. They do I think when in full screen non window mode.
> 
> 
> 
> Odd, I never use vsync personally but I tried enabling it in CS: GO (set to triple buffered) and it didn't seem to do anything. My framerate was still in the 200's. What happens when you disable vsync?
> 
> FWIW, with a refresh rate this high I think tearing is so minimal that it's rarely worth having vsync enabled. It also seems to depend on the game and tearing is more noticeable in some engines. In particular, I think CS looks great with vsync disabled and of course ensures that input lag is minimal which is crucial for a FPS.
Click to expand...

I have Vsync enabled in Nvidia settings.

Also, I need my FPS constant. I don't want FPS drops outside of smokes.

fps_max 300 w/ vsync on should yield only 120fps aka your refresh rate. This is how I know for sure my refresh rate goes to 60 in borderless mode.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> I have Vsync on. So if my refresh rate is 120, it'll do 120FPS. But I can see a huge difference without on, but it just confirms what I see.
> 
> Not sure if they flicker. They do I think when in full screen non window mode.
> 
> 
> 
> Odd, I never use vsync personally but I tried enabling it in CS: GO (set to triple buffered) and it didn't seem to do anything. My framerate was still in the 200's. What happens when you disable vsync?
> 
> FWIW, with a refresh rate this high I think tearing is so minimal that it's rarely worth having vsync enabled. It also seems to depend on the game and tearing is more noticeable in some engines. In particular, I think CS looks great with vsync disabled and of course ensures that input lag is minimal which is crucial for a FPS.
Click to expand...

I have Vsync enabled in Nvidia settings.

Also, I need my FPS constant. I don't want FPS drops outside of smokes.

fps_max 300 w/ vsync on should yield only 120fps aka your refresh rate. This is how I know for sure my refresh rate goes to 60 in borderless mode.


----------



## exzacklyright

Might help for newbies to point out in the CRU guide that you need to double click or hit edit on the profile and then hit copy.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Looks like you'll have to send it back...
> 
> Just use a US 3-prong cable to connect the adapter to your outlet. That thing doesn't even have a ground pin.


Could you recommend a 3 prong cable (not sure which one's we're talking about since I only used my first monitor for like a day and really didn't look at the brick)? Won't be getting my replacement monitor until later tonight and I'd like to reduce any problems with the adapter they gave me for my first monitor.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

That just means a regular old computer or monitor power cable.


----------



## saberX

Hey,

is it possible for someone to post a pic of regular desktop with 1080p resolution with no borders? I have an AMD 6870 card btw.

I would appreciate it.


----------



## exzacklyright




----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> Did anyone not get an adapter like this?
> 
> 
> Got it all setup to only find out I don't see any adapter :/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Could you recommend a 3 prong cable (not sure which one's we're talking about since I only used my first monitor for like a day and really didn't look at the brick)? Won't be getting my replacement monitor until later tonight and I'd like to reduce any problems with the adapter they gave me for my first monitor.


A lot of us are using something like this:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5292&seq=1&format=2
or
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5285&seq=1&format=2
or
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5279&seq=1&format=2

The lower the AWG the better the cable. Order the length that you need.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saberX*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> is it possible for someone to post a pic of regular desktop with 1080p resolution with no borders? I have an AMD 6870 card btw.
> 
> I would appreciate it.


Is this what you mean?

http://cdn.overclock.net/9/9d/900x900px-LL-9de9df09_IMG061.jpeg

It's dota 2 @ 1080p borderless window


----------



## mikekink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saberX*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> is it possible for someone to post a pic of regular desktop with 1080p resolution with no borders? I have an AMD 6870 card btw.
> 
> I would appreciate it.


1080p stretched out on this monitor does not look good at all it might be somewhat difficult to determine that from a picture, though 720p and 1080p videos still look good with madvr, but that's just my opinion.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saberX*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> is it possible for someone to post a pic of regular desktop with 1080p resolution with no borders? I have an AMD 6870 card btw.
> 
> I would appreciate it.


If you're wondering whether it might work or not, you have two scenarios:

1) Pushing a 1080p signal from the graphics card to rely on the monitor's scaler - this does not work as the monitor lacks a scaler. It also means: forget about non-PC sources which don't support 1440p.

2) Pushing a 1080p resolution (rendered) while using GPU scaling - this outputs a 1440p signal from the graphics card but everything is rendered at 1080p internally - this DOES work.

Hope this helps.


----------



## exzacklyright

Here's the stuck pixel... tried those "seizure videos" + rubbing it + tapping it.. and no luck yet.


----------



## JDMfanatic

Does anybody know why I have this issue?

After overclocking my monitor to 96hz, it's fine during use, but when I restart the computer, my whole screen basically flickers grey.

It seems like the solution would be to just try a different cable from what I have read?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic*
> 
> Does anybody know why I have this issue?
> 
> After overclocking my monitor to 96hz, it's fine during use, but when I restart the computer, my whole screen basically flickers grey.
> 
> It seems like the solution would be to just try a different cable from what I have read?


Sounds like it's not setting the correct mode when you reboot. I doubt it's the cable since it works fine initially. How are you creating the custom mode/refresh?


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the stuck pixel... tried those "seizure videos" + rubbing it + tapping it.. and no luck yet.


Have you tried running UDPixel over it for a few hours?


----------



## SinfulRoad

Just got my replacement QNIX today, its' brilliant, no problems except for minor backlight bleed, 2 dead pixels (one of which just disappeared I believe,) some gaps, but I'm going to be debezeling it anyways.


----------



## JDMfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Sounds like it's not setting the correct mode when you reboot. I doubt it's the cable since it works fine initially. How are you creating the custom mode/refresh?


I am using the CRU utility, copying the default configuration, making a new configuration and pasting it in, then changing it to 96hz refresh rate. However, it wouldn't show up on my Nvidia control panel so I ended up just using EVGA Pixel OC to overclock my monitor instead. I was confused why it wouldn't show up.

edit: i am using CRU to make my detailed resolution profiles at the moment. I am making them on the active dual dvi monitor and moving the resolution i created to the top. I also have include extension block unchecked. Why isn't it showing up on Nvidia control panel? Where am I supposed to look? The FAQ in the original thread doesn't really address any of these issues for me..


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Have you tried running UDPixel over it for a few hours?


I'm running it right now. Been running it for an hour or so. Might leave it on overnight.

On a side note, Everything seems so small! I zoom in on web pages to make it larger and fit the screen better and then the text gets all blurry or the web pages messes up. Did anyone else have to get used to this?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic*
> 
> I am using the CRU utility, copying the default configuration, making a new configuration and pasting it in, then changing it to 96hz refresh rate. However, it wouldn't show up on my Nvidia control panel so I ended up just using EVGA Pixel OC to overclock my monitor instead. I was confused why it wouldn't show up.
> 
> edit: i am using CRU to make my detailed resolution profiles at the moment. I am making them on the active dual dvi monitor and moving the resolution i created to the top. I also have include extension block unchecked. Why isn't it showing up on Nvidia control panel? Where am I supposed to look? The FAQ in the original thread doesn't really address any of these issues for me..


Good question. I am assuming you already patched your drivers, but if not that is probably it. Also the 326.xx drivers have issues with these monitors, so be sure to avoid those until the official WHQL release. If neither of those are it, I'd say uninstall Pixel OC, reinstall your drivers and use the latest ToastyX patch.


----------



## asuka10456

For some odd reason, my monitor goes nuts when playing NBA 2k13. Really blurry. Not in any other game I have tried so far. Anyone know a fix for this issue? Only happens when the monitor is overclocked. I tried LCD Reduced enabled in CRU and in CCC Reduce DVI Frequency.


----------



## Blackroush

hi Guys is that worth to buy "Perfect Pixel"? in case I got a dead/ stuck pixel with my "Perfect Pixel Monitor" how much is the cost to sent it back to Korea I live in San Francisco? Thanks guys.


----------



## JDMfanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Good question. I am assuming you already patched your drivers, but if not that is probably it. Also the 326.xx drivers have issues with these monitors, so be sure to avoid those until the official WHQL release. If neither of those are it, I'd say uninstall Pixel OC, reinstall your drivers and use the latest ToastyX patch.


So this is what I have done since the last post:

Set my refresh rate back to 60hz and set everything else back to normal
Uninstall my previous Nvidia drivers (they were pretty old, 310~ish
Reinstall latest WHQL drivers (320.49 i believe)
Reinstall ToastyX's latest Nvidia patch (1.2)

This time, I was able to make a custom resolution profile in Nvidia control panel and set the refresh rate to 96 hz, but the same thing happens: grey artifacts on boot that can only be solved by unplugging and replugging my DVI cable. Honestly, at this point it seems like a cable problem.

A side issue is the profiles created from CRU not showing up in Nvidia control panel no matter what I do. Tried unchecking include extension block and all but it seems like nothing gets my CRU custom resolutions to get picked up by Nvidia control panel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackroush*
> 
> hi Guys is that worth to buy "Perfect Pixel"? in case I got a dead/ stuck pixel with my "Perfect Pixel Monitor" how much is the cost to sent it back to Korea I live in San Francisco? Thanks guys.


long story short, nope. just buy a non perfect pixel monitor. it's been generally agreed upon that it's just a marketing gimmick. I just bought a monitor from accessorieswhole and there are no dead pixels and very minimal BLB. better off checking each seller's dead pixel policy.


----------



## rubixcube101

Hey guys i have a bit of a problem with my second monitor affect the overclocked refresh rate on my QNIX. I clicked do not include extension block but it slows it down on the one side of my screen. Works perfectly when the second monitor is unplugged. Anyway of fixing this?


----------



## apav

A little off topic question, but I just switched to Nvidia and cannot get Update Components and Geforce Experience to install. I have gone through many different fixes, and I've had no luck.

But then I remembered. I completely uninstalled all AMD drivers (and deleted all registry entries/hidden folders), but I forgot to disable the ATI pixel patcher and test mode before swapping cards and installing Nvidia drivers. I've turned test mode off, but I can't launch ATI pixel patcher since I don't have the card plugged in.

Is there any possibility that ATIpixel patcher is still enabled and is messing up my Nvidia drivers installation?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> On a side note, Everything seems so small! I zoom in on web pages to make it larger and fit the screen better and then the text gets all blurry or the web pages messes up. Did anyone else have to get used to this?


Yea basically with this monitor web surfing is difficult at first. It takes some getting used to. I initially tried changing the font sizes in FireFox but then pages were rendering all messed up -- e.g. some webpages have a predefined amount of space for text and making the font bigger messed up the layout.

I put the font sizes back to default and I find that increasing the zoom in FireFox works much better (ctrl + or ctrl mouse wheel).

I have a second 27" 1080p monitor next to the Qnix that I use for a lot of other stuff other than gaming.


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> I'm running it right now. Been running it for an hour or so. Might leave it on overnight.
> 
> On a side note, Everything seems so small! I zoom in on web pages to make it larger and fit the screen better and then the text gets all blurry or the web pages messes up. Did anyone else have to get used to this?


I recommend bumping the font sizes in Windows Color and Appearance for all of the items at least by 1 if not more. Additionally you can adjust the actual size of various other vector GUI elements of windows which lets you put adjust them to a comfortable reading level and maintain native resolution sharpness.

Of course, the greater the size of things, the more screen real estate it takes up but honestly it's a balance between the two with more importance on readability since the resolution.

As for the browser, You can easily change the font size and default zoom sizes in Chrome. I'm sure Firefox has the same but I don't use it that often. Again, browser viewport real estate is affected by all of this but the majority of websites are still using a 900px width and 12px font size which is relatively tiny on this screen from a <2 foot distance.


----------



## DiceAir

I can't go past 85HZ then i either get green artifacts or the screen shakes in games. Think my GTX570 SLi setup can't keep up. I'm so ffar happy with 85Hz cause my GPU's can't even push any further. Also think the gtx570 and because it's in SLi is affecting my overclock ability.


----------



## saberX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Is this what you mean?
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/9/9d/900x900px-LL-9de9df09_IMG061.jpeg
> 
> It's dota 2 @ 1080p borderless window


someone already told me games work at 1080p without borders but I was wondering if browsing Firefox (desktop) works at 1080p without borders. Thnx though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikekink*
> 
> 1080p stretched out on this monitor does not look good at all it might be somewhat difficult to determine that from a picture, though 720p and 1080p videos still look good with madvr, but that's just my opinion.


I used to have a u2713hm monitor that did 1080p desktop perfectly and fonts were much more readable.
1440p text is too small for my eyes. 1080p text looked sharper on the 2713hm compared to s2740L which is also 27" but 1080p native monitor. Its due to the physical pixels being smaller on 1440p monitors.
thnx.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If you're wondering whether it might work or not, you have two scenarios:
> 
> 1) Pushing a 1080p signal from the graphics card to rely on the monitor's scaler - this does not work as the monitor lacks a scaler. It also means: forget about non-PC sources which don't support 1440p.
> 
> 2) Pushing a 1080p resolution (rendered) while using GPU scaling - this outputs a 1440p signal from the graphics card but everything is rendered at 1080p internally - this DOES work.
> 
> Hope this helps.


ok Scenario 2 is what I'm looking for. If someone could post a picture of Firefox or chrome with this site open in that scenario that would be perfect. Thnx


----------



## saberX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> I'm running it right now. Been running it for an hour or so. Might leave it on overnight.
> 
> On a side note, Everything seems so small! I zoom in on web pages to make it larger and fit the screen better and then the text gets all blurry or the web pages messes up. Did anyone else have to get used to this?


ya text becomes really small. This is the reason I had to put 1080p on my u2713hm monitor.
trying to find out if these monitors do 1080p fine for web browsing but seems I'm sol due to no scalars in these.


----------



## N3C14R

Ok, my "perfect pixel" x-star developed another stuck pixel which makes the count to 2. Gotta see what dream seller has to say about it..


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3C14R*
> 
> Ok, my "perfect pixel" x-star developed another stuck pixel which makes the count to 2. Gotta see what dream seller has to say about it..


Use UDPixel.


----------



## N3C14R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Use UDPixel.


I synced it to the monitors refresh rate and left it running overnight, didn't fix it.







I also did the apply-pressure-to-the-screen method too, didn't work


----------



## Vauxite

I received my glossy QX2710 today. No dead pixels and none to minimal BLB. Ordered from accessorieswhole. Followed the guide under FAQ and overclocked it to 96Hz. I'm expericing an issue with random green-lines when running a game in fullscreen. But if i run the same game in borderless/windowed fullscreen mode, I don't get any green lines. Running geforce driver 320.49 and a gtx 670 windforce x3 from gigabyte.
Is there any fix for this or should just accept my screen doesn't clock 96Hz?

EDIT:

Not sure what fixed but after a 2nd restart it works just fine at 96Hz


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3C14R*
> 
> Ok, my "perfect pixel" x-star developed another stuck pixel which makes the count to 2. Gotta see what dream seller has to say about it..


What's your REfresh Rate on the screen? Did you overclock it over 96hz?


----------



## David164v8

I asked Greensum if they provided a UK power adaptor for the monitor, and got this response

"Unfortunately, we do not provide a power adapter for U.K. We would think this monitor is directly used without it."

Would I not need some adaptor to actually plug it into the wall? Can I just use those leads that are plugged into most PSU's? (The three pin ones)


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> I asked Greensum if they provided a UK power adaptor for the monitor, and got this response
> 
> "Unfortunately, we do not provide a power adapter for U.K. We would think this monitor is directly used without it."
> 
> Would I not need some adaptor to actually plug it into the wall? Can I just use those leads that are plugged into most PSU's? (The three pin ones)


Yeah that should work.


----------



## fifty

guys are all the codes/labels of the qnix 2710 all the same model (there are whqd, whqd without samsung label, PLS, samsung from the same seller on ebay)? is also the display port model able to overclock as well?


----------



## ZgunnerZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> I asked Greensum if they provided a UK power adaptor for the monitor, and got this response
> 
> "Unfortunately, we do not provide a power adapter for U.K. We would think this monitor is directly used without it."
> 
> Would I not need some adaptor to actually plug it into the wall? Can I just use those leads that are plugged into most PSU's? (The three pin ones)


I'm pretty sure that the plug that comes with it is the standard plug for UK inlets. The adapter they provide is UK>NA. That's why he says it's "directly used without it".


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> guys are all the codes/labels of the qnix 2710 all the same model (there are whqd, whqd without samsung label, PLS, samsung from the same seller on ebay)? is also the display port model able to overclock as well?


No only single DVI models can OC and thats not just these PLS. Has to do with more input lag.


----------



## Stylook

Hi,

Update from my previous post:

1. I installed the NVidia full patch 1.2
2. Used CRU to put in the frequencies as native in NVCP. Now in the NVCP it has 3 light band colors on right pane. Is this normal?

However the Aero Theme Desktop transparent bar and windows has changed to a fix solid color bar. I can't get it to become transparent as what an Aero Theme suppose to be.

But good news is that most games tested can be played smoothly from 96hz to 120hz. It just that I don't quite like the non-aero transparent color bar desktop experience. I tried reactivated in the 'Personalization' section but still couldn't activate the Aero Theme. Did I missed out anything?

Update:

I have figure out why there is no Aero theme, under the NVCP if I select refresh rate under the native to higher than 60hz. The color depth goes to 16bit instead of 32bit. But if I choose custom for 97hz to 120hz, the color depth can stay at 32bit. Aero theme then can be activated. Is this what suppose to happen? I have tried to play SC2 and it's good to go, there is no sudden stutter/lag.

Thoughts: Even though I am using GTX 690 I still need to put in the patch. I believe there is still a cap limitation without the patch that is if I activate the multi-gpu configuration by selecting 'Maximized 3D performance'. It seem that it function like SLI, so patch is still needed. But how does CRU affect the whole, that I don't know for sure. Now that NVCP has the native to select all the 96hz to 120hz but cannot go with 32bit color depth. Due to frustration, I just add in the custom in NVCP and select the Refresh Rate at the custom side and that allow the 32bit to stay. So, I don't really know if CRU has any effect on the whole. Unless I revert back from beginning and just put in the patch and select refresh rate in custom, without the CRU. That's only if I have time to test it out.

Stylook.jpg 413k .jpg file


----------



## fifty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No only single DVI models can OC and thats not just these PLS. Has to do with more input lag.


Ah many thanks
And which one should i get, or better, which one is the better ?
Thank you


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic*
> 
> So this is what I have done since the last post:
> 
> Set my refresh rate back to 60hz and set everything else back to normal
> Uninstall my previous Nvidia drivers (they were pretty old, 310~ish
> Reinstall latest WHQL drivers (320.49 i believe)
> Reinstall ToastyX's latest Nvidia patch (1.2)
> 
> This time, I was able to make a custom resolution profile in Nvidia control panel and set the refresh rate to 96 hz, but the same thing happens: grey artifacts on boot that can only be solved by unplugging and replugging my DVI cable. Honestly, at this point it seems like a cable problem.
> 
> A side issue is the profiles created from CRU not showing up in Nvidia control panel no matter what I do. Tried unchecking include extension block and all but it seems like nothing gets my CRU custom resolutions to get picked up by Nvidia control panel.


Yeah I guess a cable is the best thing you can try now. This doesn't happen at 60hz? Did you try any other refresh rates for the hell of it?

Regarding CRU, the only thing I can think to suggest is be sure you're running it as an administrator. Otherwise, I'd go through the pages of the official CRU thread and see if anyone else has the same issue.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fifty*
> 
> Ah many thanks
> And which one should i get, or better, which one is the better ?
> Thank you


Price and seller is really the only other major consideration (you want matte unless you have no windows at all where your PC is). Stay away from Dream-seller; maybe AccessoriesWhole or Hulustar or Green-Sum. Can find much more overall general info in Post #1 of this thread.


----------



## exzacklyright

So the tape mod in the OP is pretty vauge. I've watched the videos on youtube and they seem complicated since he shows every little thing. After taking off the bezel how much more work do you have to do to apply the tape method to the frame?


----------



## ShakDiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So the tape mod in the OP is pretty vauge. I've watched the videos on youtube and they seem complicated since he shows every little thing. After taking off the bezel how much more work do you have to do to apply the tape method to the frame?


I might be wrong but I believe you just reassemble it after putting the tape around the edge. It just adds a little more thickness to the foam lining that's already there making it harder for the backlight to bleed through.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well I had my bezel open but did not remove the metal frame. Seemed to me that would be the delicate part. Upon getting it off the panel some have found it is noticeably bent so they also straightened with a roller on a flat surface in addition to taping the back side of it (so tape ultimately lies between the frame and the panel itself). OP "vague" partly because the taping part is much more trial-and-errorish, really, as it depends on _your_ frame etc. One key is to put the frame back on and fire the thing up a few times as you are doing the tape part to see the effect, if any, it is having.

There are other posts with more info but they are buried now. Maybe search "tape" though that might find a ton.


----------



## yellowsnow

to be honest i dont think a tape mod is necessary to get rid of the blb. for me the blb was caused by the metal frame being bent inwards causing a pinch where the led would illuminate dispersing it on the screen. just disassemble the monitor to the point you can remove the metal frame that houses the panel. put the frame on the flat surface. get a rubber mallet or hammer and straighten it flat


----------



## wntrsnowg

Im pretty sure that with the tape mod, ive never done it before, you tape the front of the metal bezel and tension it to the backside such that the metal bezel is being pulled away from the screen (reducing BLB). correct me if im wrong


----------



## ronquilent

I think it's best to de-bezel these monitors if the monitor isn't going to be moving around.


----------



## exzacklyright

Anyone know why I had spacers here and not in the corners? When I took off the bezel there were "squares" for spacers on the corners but there wasn't any spacers there. I'm guessing this is just lazy assembly work right?

As for the tape mod... and watching the video 3 times.. still had no idea *** he was doing.


----------



## Bobotheklown

Qnix from newegg's marketplace seller "Neofeel" came in today. 0 dead pixels and some very minimal blb in the bottom right corner of the screen. Extremely satisfied!

I will try overclocking later tonight.


----------



## DiceAir

I have an issue with my screen. I'm at 85Hz and sometimes Like when I played mass effect 3 my screen went off then on but showed me a blue screen and red then back to game. I'm running GTX570 sli, i5-2500k @ 4.5GHz. Also sometimes I get a some green artifacts. is there a way to see if my monitor is handling it correctly?

BTW I overclocked my screen using CRU and also tried Nvidia control panel


----------



## N3C14R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> What's your REfresh Rate on the screen? Did you overclock it over 96hz?


The refresh rate is 6, Nope, left it stock on 60hz since I got it.


----------



## lukelev07

I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of this beast. I ordered the Qnix from green-sum.

I even cleaned my desk to prepare for the arrival









Quick view of the delivery truck arrival









More pics to come, once I get it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

lmao ^^^^


----------



## OneGun




----------



## supdubdup

What are your guys' MOUSE DPI for these 1440p screen?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> What are your guys' MOUSE DPI for these 1440p screen?


I'm at 800 DPI with Windows 7 mouse sensitivity set to max. Seems pretty good.


----------



## Bobotheklown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobotheklown*
> 
> Qnix from newegg's marketplace seller "Neofeel" came in today. 0 dead pixels and some very minimal blb in the bottom right corner of the screen. Extremely satisfied!
> 
> I will try overclocking later tonight.


The BLB is a bit worse than I thought, it looks like almost all along the bottom of the panel it's pretty bad.

I was able to overclock to 115hz without a hitch! 120 started producing some flickering green and red horizontal lines.

Just waiting on my mount to arrive


----------



## nuttybars

Got it!

One stuck pixel in the middle of the screen on the left third. Second one is on the bottom right in the task bar right next to the clock. Very minor BLB on the bottom left third.

No other problems!









The QNIX next to my ASUS VS248H-P. Quite an improvement!

I had horizontal green lines at 120Hz every 20 seconds or so. Is this possibly fixed with a monoprice DVI cable? I'm at 96 Hz now even though I have to lower the graphics on newer games to hit it on my GTX 570.









Forgot to put up a piece of paper with my name but it's logged in if you look hard enough haha.


----------



## voozers

I use 4400 dpi on my 1440p screen although that's because I also play League.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supdubdup*
> 
> What are your guys' MOUSE DPI for these 1440p screen?


I use 3500dpi..You never want to adjust mouse sensitivity in WIN if you are a FPS gamer as it will add more Acceleration..


----------



## MarvinDessica

Ok I'm going to buy a pixel perfect.

Next post dictates which one I buy since I've been at this for 3 days :S


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I have an issue with my screen. I'm at 85Hz and sometimes Like when I played mass effect 3 my screen went off then on but showed me a blue screen and red then back to game. I'm running GTX570 sli, i5-2500k @ 4.5GHz. Also sometimes I get a some green artifacts. is there a way to see if my monitor is handling it correctly?
> 
> BTW I overclocked my screen using CRU and also tried Nvidia control panel


Anyone that can help me?


----------



## nuttybars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Ok I'm going to buy a pixel perfect.
> 
> Next post dictates which one I buy since I've been at this for 3 days :S


Pixel Perfect is a gimmick. Buy the Qnix QX2710. I just bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6 and my pics are above.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Anyone that can help me?


Have you tried a different DVI cable?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Have you tried a different DVI cable?


Haven't tried that. I can get a 28AWG cable with the following specs

Connector Type: DVI-D male to DVI-D male
Signal Type: Digital
Length: 2 Meter
Gauge: 28AWG
Pin Configuration: 24 + 1
Conductor Plating: None
Shielding level: Triple
Shielding type: EMI
1080p support: Yes
Bandwidth: Dual Link
Maximum Resolution: 2560x1600
Min Clock Freq: 21.76 Mhz
Max Clock Freq: 165 Mhz x 2
Max Thoroughput: 7.4 Gbps
Pixels per cycle 2:
Bits per Pixel 24:
DDWG Compliant: Yes
HDCP Compliant: Yes
ROHS Compliant Yes
UL Certified Yes
CL2 (In-Wall): No
VW-1: Yes
Voltage Rating: 30V
Temperature Rating: 80° C


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Anyone that can help me?


85hz is pretty poor overclock. I definitely agree with OneGun that you might want to try a different cable and maybe a different port if possible. Also you may want to use LCD reduced if you are not already. It is possible you just did not get a very good overclocking panel and they are only guaranteed to run at 60hz.

A way you can test if you are running at overclock speeds without frame skipping is refreshrate multitool (google it). You can also get a little app called power strip and do the horizontal line test repeatedly. When doing the test rapidly(button mashing it) if you see a more than 5 frame difference then it is not stable(like if it drops below 80hz when you are at 85hz).

EDIT: There is no just standard monitor benchmarking program that you can use to actually detect stability directly. Powerstrip is as close as you can get that i know of. If anyone knows a better way chime in.


----------



## Jaxonfire




----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 85hz is pretty poor overclock. I definitely agree with OneGun that you might want to try a different cable and maybe a different port if possible. Also you may want to use LCD reduced if you are not already. It is possible you just did not get a very good overclocking panel and they are only guaranteed to run at 60hz.
> 
> A way you can test if you are running at overclock speeds without frame skipping is refreshrate multitool (google it). You can also get a little app called power strip and do the horizontal line test repeatedly. When doing the test rapidly(button mashing it) if you see a more than 5 frame difference then it is not stable(like if it drops below 80hz when you are at 85hz).
> 
> EDIT: There is no just standard monitor benchmarking program that you can use to actually detect stability directly. Powerstrip is as close as you can get that i know of. If anyone knows a better way chime in.


i already checked with powerstrip and my 85Hz is fine. i haven't tried any higher. only 96 but scared to go higher now. i was thinking of going 96Hz max. if i go 96Hz my screen works untill i get into a games then everything shakes and flickers.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> i already checked with powerstrip and my 85Hz is fine. i haven't tried any higher. only 96 but scared to go higher now. i was thinking of going 96Hz max. if i go 96Hz my screen works untill i get into a games then everything shakes and flickers.


Actually the shaking and flickering could be the polarization for the monitor. Try setting the polarity setting in CRU to "+ +" instead of "+ -" or "- +". This sometimes can happen with multiple monitors attached and a few other reasons i forget right now. It helped me when i had a TN panel as secondary. After i got an IPS panel as a secondary monitor the double positive change was no longer needed.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Haven't tried that. I can get a 28AWG cable with the following specs
> 
> Connector Type: DVI-D male to DVI-D male
> Signal Type: Digital
> Length: 2 Meter
> Gauge: 28AWG
> Pin Configuration: 24 + 1
> Conductor Plating: None
> Shielding level: Triple
> Shielding type: EMI
> 1080p support: Yes
> Bandwidth: Dual Link
> Maximum Resolution: 2560x1600
> Min Clock Freq: 21.76 Mhz
> Max Clock Freq: 165 Mhz x 2
> Max Thoroughput: 7.4 Gbps
> Pixels per cycle 2:
> Bits per Pixel 24:
> DDWG Compliant: Yes
> HDCP Compliant: Yes
> ROHS Compliant Yes
> UL Certified Yes
> CL2 (In-Wall): No
> VW-1: Yes
> Voltage Rating: 30V
> Temperature Rating: 80° C


This is a good cable other than the size could be 24AWG and the length could be 1 meter. The extra size has been reported to help in most cases but there has been reports of no benefit at all. Length will almost always give you a bit better signal since there is less distance for the data to travel thus a smaller break down period.

Alright guys time for some sleep night









EDIT: one quick addition. I recommend getting 2 or 3 cables to try. Cables are always hit or miss for the most part since they are very much mass produced. Trying just one is like trying only once to get a bullseye on a dart board.


----------



## fifty

just bought this : http://www.ebay.com/itm/140961485035?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 from green-sum
i dont know if it is a glossy or matte panel but it doesn't make much of a difference for me (even tho i prefer glossy)
i'll post result when it arrive









btw can i use my samsusun s29a950d dvi cable to test a different one instead of the one on the qnix box or should i get another one?


----------



## sloppygamer

Hey guys,

Apologies if this has already been covered, but I was wondering whether I would be able to use an adapter such as DVI-D to HDMI or DVI-D to Mini display port to connect either the X-Star or the QNIX monitor to a graphics card that does not have DVI-D output.

I have just purchased the following card:
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23160

And was hoping to pick up one of these monitors in the near future.

Cheers in advance!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppygamer*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Apologies if this has already been covered, but I was wondering whether I would be able to use an adapter such as DVI-D to HDMI or DVI-D to Mini display port to connect either the X-Star or the QNIX monitor to a graphics card that does not have DVI-D output.
> 
> I have just purchased the following card:
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23160
> 
> And was hoping to pick up one of these monitors in the near future.
> 
> Cheers in advance!


I must say one beast of a card. You should be able to handle any game except crysis3 on pretty much full gfxx or at least medium. SAve up and get one more in the future. I'm waiting for MSI lightning 780
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This is a good cable other than the size could be 24AWG and the length could be 1 meter. The extra size has been reported to help in most cases but there has been reports of no benefit at all. Length will almost always give you a bit better signal since there is less distance for the data to travel thus a smaller break down period.
> 
> Alright guys time for some sleep night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: one quick addition. I recommend getting 2 or 3 cables to try. Cables are always hit or miss for the most part since they are very much mass produced. Trying just one is like trying only once to get a bullseye on a dart board.


Do you guys think changing the gpu that I have to do anyway will help with getting better overclocking results.?I'm currently running GTX570 SLi


----------



## jokrik

Have a bit of question, my QNIX is on its way
Ive been trying to get a proper gold plated DVI-D cables but its so hard to get one in my country
I heard that people can get higher OC on the monitor with better cables

Im wondering would I get the same result with high quality HDMI cable?
I know DVI-D performs well , how about HDMI?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> According to This Vid this monitor DOES not use PWM backlighting..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I just knocked mine down to the absolute lowest brightness setting and the flickering is definitely there (not huge, but there). But 1 step up and it isn't noticeable, above 2 steps I cannot see anything.


Sorry for late response. But with my 3 different Qnix I get 3 different outcomes.
With brightness to lowest settings:

Has flickering
Has no flickering
Screen goes completely black
LOL. Any consistency here?


----------



## sloppygamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I must say one beast of a card. You should be able to handle any game except crysis3 on pretty much full gfxx or at least medium. SAve up and get one more in the future. I'm waiting for MSI lightning 780


Cheers. Yeah will get another down the track when funds allow for it. Able to shed any light on the possibility of adapters though?
Thanks!


----------



## wato21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppygamer*
> 
> Cheers. Yeah will get another down the track when funds allow for it. Able to shed any light on the possibility of adapters though?
> Thanks!


You will be fine using the DVI-I input mate all good.


----------



## sloppygamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wato21*
> 
> You will be fine using the DVI-I input mate all good.


Cheers for clarifying that.


----------



## Ricey20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Have a bit of question, my QNIX is on its way
> Ive been trying to get a proper gold plated DVI-D cables but its so hard to get one in my country
> I heard that people can get higher OC on the monitor with better cables
> 
> Im wondering would I get the same result with high quality HDMI cable?
> I know DVI-D performs well , how about HDMI?


Are you getting the one with HDMI? If so those don't OC well if at all.


----------



## coolfire

Got mine from green-sum on 15 July 13.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricey20*
> 
> Are you getting the one with HDMI? If so those don't OC well if at all.


Never mind!
I thought it also comes with hdmi slot
guess I'll just have to push my luck getting a better DVI-D cable


----------



## viwe649

@OP,would you please add this link to the OP







,cause what i found was,i hit 120hz but it was actually 96hz lol...it's an excellent tool.http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping. I apologize if it's already there


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> @OP,would you please add this link to the OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,cause what i found was,i hit 120hz but it was actually 96hz lol...it's an excellent tool.http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping. I apologize if it's already there


Is it still supposed to say 60Hz?


----------



## viwe649

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Is it still supposed to say 60Hz?


It tells you what your actual refresh rate is,so if you're at 60hz it's suppose to say 60hz 60fps and then you'll get the green light


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> It tells you what your actual refresh rate is,so if you're at 60hz it's suppose to say 60hz 60fps and then you'll get the green light


I'm fairly certain my QNIX is running at 120Hz yet it still shows 60Hz. Something's not right.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Ordered mine. Can't wait.


----------



## voozers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Never mind!
> I thought it also comes with hdmi slot
> guess I'll just have to push my luck getting a better DVI-D cable


Don't bother yet, I thought I had to get a good dvi cable so I bought gold plated monster dvi cable. I never used it and returned it.

With the dvi cable that came with my monitor I managed to get 115hz overclock. I haven't tried higher but I'm pretty sure I can do 120.


----------



## viwe649

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> I'm fairly certain my QNIX is running at 120Hz yet it still shows 60Hz. Something's not right.


Let the tiny box move across your screen for a few seconds without touching anything e.g moving cursor....then run the tool again. Also make sure to close other open tabs


----------



## ColdFlo

Mouse DPI doesnt matter there is the actual DPI of the mouse and then there are in os or game tuning/tweaking variables that you can use to get the cursor to move a given amount for a certain mouse movement. I know the ESReality standard gamer that understands nothing of technology will tell you 400 DPI is the best on a logitech "I cant even remember those old model numbers anymore oh yeah mxx518?(remembered on edit to remove one line)" mouse but thats just gamers that get stuck in a rut and cant adapt to new interfaces like all of you crying about windows 8 when you dont have a choice to but to upgrade because unless you can write millions of lines of code and can upgrade compilers you cant make your own os. New code uses a new compiler and the resulting binaries are faster the kernel is ugpraded(faster more multithreaded utitlizes multicore far more efficiently(from a processing power standpoint you only think about energy because your economy is sabotaged and now your energy prices are going to increase so they tell u to think green and u need a power efficient processor to keep you thinking green and paying huge electric bill) directx gets upgraded. YOU DONT HAVE A CHOICE YOUR A SLAVE GET USED TO IT because you cant write millions of lines of code.....(ur lucky you even get to use it or that it exists stop crying).

That being said you want the highest DPI mouse lol I know this is confusing compared to that last paragraph but allow me to explain. Higher DPI doesnt just mean "mouse moves faster" and I think its ignorant to put on the fly DPI switching buttons on the mouse because then people think its just on the fly sensitivity. I never change my mouse DPI I set aliases in the game to certain weapons so they have the proper sensitivity and zoom(especially on older games). The reason you don't want to use the DPI switching on the fly is you are going to change the curves(they always change relative to DPI) of the movement of the cursor relative to mouse position(even if you remove acceleration mouse curves in the registry) the best way to game is to turn your DPI all the way to maximum and lower your sensitivity in game. In the past or on older games it becomes necessary to possibly even to have to use a decimal or fractional sensitivity aka .9 .5 when maybe if you were using a ball ps/2 mouse in the past you would set a sensitvity of 20 in quake 2 with a 6400 dpi taipan(its always better to go wired turning signal from copper to wireless through the air to wireless to copper again is more circuitry and more time because of component slowdowns than straight copper) you may have to go fractional. This will change the aiming curves even with acceleration removed and you will notice it and it will take getting used to even if your full 360 turnaround mouse movement distance is the same as it was previously with a different mouse or lower dpi setting. The benefit tho is is that you are getting more accuracy you are getting more aim precision because the same corresponding mouse movement has more "pixels" of mouse movement per "pixel" of screen movement or a finer granularity of your mouse which is good for a wrist aimer like me who moves the mouse very little distance as compared to a razer deathadder arm aimer style with a huge mousepad that moves his mouse huge distances to get finer aim tho this tactic has drawbacks and is more tailored to medium to longrange gunfighting in the game and lacks responsiveness for close range combat. Tho even if an arm aimer turned his sensitivity down even further this would benefit him as well. Also I noticed recently that Valves source engine has retailored its ingame sensitivity cvar so the values are more intune with modern mice with higher DPI so that a 2 sensitivity from 6 years ago is still a 2 with a new higher dpi mouse but inreality in the code the sensitivity is actually far lower than the older 2 value.


----------



## Naitsirk

Hei.

Happilly received the X-Star DP2710 yesterday, but having some issues.

I am planning for a new desktop computer, but am currently on a Dell Latitude E6520 with nvidia nvs 4200m gpu and hdmi 1.3 output.
I believe the max hdmi output is 1080p, but was hoping to run the new monitor at 1080p until I get the new computer.

When I connect with hdmi through an hdmi-dvi-d adapter to the supplied dvi-d cable the monitor start giving flashes of separate bright colors; green, red etc and a black/white horizontal lines with a vertical line in the middle..

At first the laptop didn't recognise the monitor, and after updating to the newest nvidia drivers it's just recognised as dual dvi and same color flashing, and now the laptop monitor resolution drops drastically as well and won't let me raise the resolution until I unplug the X-Star..

Is this a familiar issue? Am I doing something wrong, is the monitor DOA, can it not handle 1080p, will it not work with hdmi through adapter (I tried two different adapters) or is the GPU too weak to run the monitor?

Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naitsirk*
> 
> Hei.
> 
> Happilly received the X-Star DP2710 yesterday, but having some issues.
> 
> I am planning for a new desktop computer, but am currently on a Dell Latitude E6520 with nvidia nvs 4200m gpu and hdmi 1.3 output.
> I believe the max hdmi output is 1080p, but was hoping to run the new monitor at 1080p until I get the new computer.
> 
> When I connect with hdmi through an hdmi-dvi-d adapter to the supplied dvi-d cable the monitor start giving flashes of separate bright colors; green, red etc and a black/white horizontal lines with a vertical line in the middle..
> 
> At first the laptop didn't recognise the monitor, and after updating to the newest nvidia drivers it's just recognised as dual dvi and same color flashing, and now the laptop monitor resolution drops drastically as well and won't let me raise the resolution until I unplug the X-Star..
> 
> Is this a familiar issue? Am I doing something wrong, is the monitor DOA, can it not handle 1080p, will it not work with hdmi through adapter (I tried two different adapters) or is the GPU too weak to run the monitor?
> 
> Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions


These monitors don't have internal scalers, so they rely on the GPU to scale a resolution up to 1440p. Since the max HDMI output is 1080p (and there may be other limitations when using the adapter), you may be out of luck until you get a new GPU.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> It tells you what your actual refresh rate is,so if you're at 60hz it's suppose to say 60hz 60fps and then you'll get the green light


No matter what I do it always fails, closing all tabs, other applications, turning off my secondary monitor, nothing.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naitsirk*
> 
> Is this a familiar issue? Am I doing something wrong, is the monitor DOA, can it not handle 1080p, will it not work with hdmi through adapter (I tried two different adapters) or is the GPU too weak to run the monitor?


HDMI -> DVI adapters cannot handle 1440p.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I must say one beast of a card. You should be able to handle any game except crysis3 on pretty much full gfxx or at least medium. SAve up and get one more in the future. I'm waiting for MSI lightning 780
> Do you guys think changing the gpu that I have to do anyway will help with getting better overclocking results.?I'm currently running GTX570 SLi


I am currently on GTX570SLI and i am at 120hz easy now. I have a GTX660 and it does overclock better(but i stick with the 570s for performance). The new 700 series cards are like the titan and are meant to be able to overclock and have no pixel limit.


----------



## David164v8

Just ordered my matte Qnix from greensum. I asked him to put the value as £35 and mark it as a gift. Its 1.30 AM in Seoul, what do you guys think the chances are it'll get dispatched today? (Their today) and how long would it take to get here? Hoping it gets here for my birthday


----------



## Naitsirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> These monitors don't have internal scalers, so they rely on the GPU to scale a resolution up to 1440p. Since the max HDMI output is 1080p (and there may be other limitations when using the adapter), you may be out of luck until you get a new GPU.


Thanks for the clarification.

So turns out the marketing specifications are a bit misleading, it shouldn't say "max resolution", but "only resolution 2560 x 1440".

Oh well, just gotta speed up the process of getting a new desktop computer


----------



## Pwalex

Hey guys, I just got my QNIX shipped in today and everything looks pretty decent so far. No dead pixels, very minimal backlight bleed. However, despite having worked a few minutes ago when I first hooked it up, the buttons are not working at all anymore. Buttons still click in just fine, they just don't do anything. Anyone encounter this problem?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pwalex*
> 
> Hey guys, I just got my QNIX shipped in today and everything looks pretty decent so far. No dead pixels, very minimal backlight bleed. However, despite having worked a few minutes ago when I first hooked it up, the buttons are not working at all anymore. Buttons still click in just fine, they just don't do anything. Anyone encounter this problem?


The adjustments that the buttons make are very slight. If you keep pressing bright +/- is there a difference after you increase / decrease brightness a bunch of times? Is your power button working?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> @OP,would you please add this link to the OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,cause what i found was,i hit 120hz but it was actually 96hz lol...it's an excellent tool.http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping. I apologize if it's already there


I will add it to the end of the OC section. Thanks


----------



## BRAKKUS1

Hey all, I just got my QNIX today also, very happy! everything seems perfect, no dead pixels, minimal backlight bleed and it overclocks to 137hz! So can't say fairer than that.
This thread has been a real help in deciding and making the most of this excellent screen, so thanks it's much appreciated, and toasty i will donate for all your hard work.

Pwalex my buttons wouldn't work first of all, but after I kept my finger on the brightness button for ages it now seems to work whenever i press it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Verified the members list. Entries that haven't followed the signup procedure are removed from the list. If your name suddenly isn't there: try again but read this time


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Verified the members list. Entries that haven't followed the signup procedure are removed from the list. If your name suddenly isn't there: try again but read this time


Honestly, who cares.
It's not like someone would lie about having this screen, can't think of a reason why.
Why bother checking if people actually posted pictures, or maybe you just have nothing useful to do


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Honestly, who cares.
> It's not like someone would lie about having this screen, can't think of a reason why.
> Why bother checking if people actually posted pictures, or maybe you just have nothing useful to do


I have seen mis-information run wild when not checked even in the most unthinkable instances. Ever looked at seller sites that allow people to post reviews without actually owning/buying the product? Fanboys and flamers are everywhere. And i am not calling anyone any names its just there is trolls out there and i think it is pretty nice the OP is kept clean and slick. So i guess you could say i for one care. Plus saying he has nothing useful to do is a bit insulting.


----------



## viwe649

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Honestly, who cares.
> It's not like someone would lie about having this screen, can't think of a reason why.
> Why bother checking if people actually posted pictures, or maybe you just have nothing useful to do


It's not about having the screen,it's about verifying that the information you pass on is indeed genuine(from experience that is) and that you're not some troll who's just seeking attention.


----------



## BRAKKUS1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *David164v8*
> 
> Just ordered my matte Qnix from greensum. I asked him to put the value as £35 and mark it as a gift. Its 1.30 AM in Seoul, what do you guys think the chances are it'll get dispatched today? (Their today) and how long would it take to get here? Hoping it gets here for my birthday


I bought mine from greensum and he was very quick, shipped next working day(it was on a Sunday when i ordered) it was shipped Monday and i received it today! excellent service, I also didn't get hit with any import tax either which i was amazed! so all in for £205, and it was marked with full value on the box.


----------



## Pwalex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> The adjustments that the buttons make are very slight. If you keep pressing bright +/- is there a difference after you increase / decrease brightness a bunch of times? Is your power button working?


It weirdly seems to have fixed itself. What *was* happening was that none of the buttons were doing anything at all. Then it had a brief power interruption (screen flickered a bit) and after that the power button worked again. I did literally nothing to make this happen, but here's hoping it doesn't act up again.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> No matter what I do it always fails, closing all tabs, other applications, turning off my secondary monitor, nothing.


Some browsers only have a 60hz refresh rate. Use Chrome as I know it has a 120hz refresh rate..


----------



## General121

Sorry, I am sure it has been said already but Newegg now carries the qnix, xstar, achieva, and other korean monitors now.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Some browsers only have a 60hz refresh rate. Use Chrome as I know it has a 120hz refresh rate..


That is the only browser I use, I even downloaded Firefox to see if that would work, nope. So I'm at a loss for words, but I do genuinely think that my monitor is running at 96 Hz, movements just feel so much smoother now in games.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Some browsers only have a 60hz refresh rate. Use Chrome as I know it has a 120hz refresh rate..


Use this page to check if your browser is compatible with these tests: http://www.testufo.com/browser.html


----------



## sdemetri

sdemetri is ... reapplying for the Club ...


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> That is the only browser I use, I even downloaded Firefox to see if that would work, nope. So I'm at a loss for words, but I do genuinely think that my monitor is running at 96 Hz, movements just feel so much smoother now in games.


I'm with you on this SinfulRoad. I'll try contacting Mark Rehjon from BlurBusters to help us figure this out.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Use this page to check if your browser is compatible with these tests: http://www.testufo.com/browser.html


I updated to the beta version that this site suggests and it still did not work. Weird.

EDIT: Using firefox 23.010b


----------



## OneGun

Mine works with chrome..This is what everyone is trying to achieve right?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I updated to the beta version that this site suggests and it still did not work. Weird.
> 
> EDIT: Using firefox 23.010b


Says you need v24+ for Firefox to work properly.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Mine works with chrome..This is what everyone is trying to acheive right?


Yeah but i am a firefox attic LOL. Guess i will have to give chrome a try for this one. No biggy.


----------



## ronquilent

I've tried this on Chrome 28.0.1500.95 m (latest stable atm) and still no luck.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yeah but i am a firefox attic LOL. Guess i will have to give chrome a try for this one. No biggy.


I used firefox for ever and loved it until i got Android phones then i never used it again..I know firefox is suppose to work better for BF3 according to Origin staff..Also Chrome has a higher ping then firefox and IE on Speedtest.net..But i Haven't tried firefox recently..How is it now?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I used firefox for ever and loved it until i got Android phones then i never used it again..I know firefox is suppose to work better for BF3 according to Origin staff..Also Chrome has a higher ping then firefox and IE on Speedtest.net..But i Haven't tried firefox recently..How is it now?


Honestly it has been a bit chaotic. Firefox has been trying very hard to catch up in a lot of features that have been adapted by many other browsers. With doing this lately there is so many updates that you never know from one day to the next. On average i would say it is still a very good browser but when i do an update and things break it bothers me.


----------



## DiceAir

So I played BF3 and suddenly my screen went blue and then green. my game crashed. My screen is at 85Hz.


----------



## urakkia

Howdy everyone,

Thought I'd register and share my experience. First off, thanks to everyone in this thread for all the great info. It's been a fantastic resource for this monitor newbie.

Gettin' to business, I ordered the QNIX QX2710 (matte) from green-sum when the price dropped to $270. Ordered on a Thursday, the monitor arrived on the US East coast the following Wednesday. Pretty damn good for overseas shipping.



Yeah, the lighting in my living room sucks. All lamplight, no overhead lighting, which is why I got the matte. Thought I noticed some graininess at first, but that seems to have been from low-quality images. (Like watching a low-res show on a high-def TV.) Don't have anything else to compare it to, but the colors are damn nice. It really shines on high-resolution photographs.



There is a cluster of what looks like 4 dead pixels in region 2 (top-center). Green-sum's policy is 5 or more in the side regions is a defect eligible for return. They bug me; I'd much pref them to be tucked in a corner region somewhere. But the truth of it is, it's hard to notice them unless I'm specifically focusing on them.

Then there's the backlight bleed.



This bothers me enough that I'm willing to try any of the home remedies out there, including opening up the case, if needed.

I haven't tried to overclock it yet. I bought it primarily for the real estate, so I won't lose sleep if it never goes past 60 fps.

I knew it was going to be a gamble, and as luck would have it, the one I received has a few more imperfections than I would have liked. If I had to do it again, I'd probably play it safe and shell out the extra cash to buy from a store with a warranty and easier return policy (e.g. ipsledmonitors). All in all, though, I feel it was worth the asking price.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urakkia*
> 
> Howdy everyone,
> 
> Thought I'd register and share my experience. First off, thanks to everyone in this thread for all the great info. It's been a fantastic resource for this monitor newbie.
> 
> Gettin' to business, I ordered the QNIX QX2710 (matte) from green-sum when the price dropped to $270. Ordered on a Thursday, the monitor arrived on the US East coast the following Wednesday. Pretty damn good for overseas shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, the lighting in my living room sucks. All lamplight, no overhead lighting, which is why I got the matte. Thought I noticed some graininess at first, but that seems to have been from low-quality images. (Like watching a low-res show on a high-def TV.) Don't have anything else to compare it to, but the colors are damn nice. It really shines on high-resolution photographs.
> 
> 
> 
> There is a cluster of what looks like 4 dead pixels in region 2 (top-center). Green-sum's policy is 5 or more in the side regions is a defect eligible for return. They bug me; I'd much pref them to be tucked in a corner region somewhere. But the truth of it is, it's hard to notice them unless I'm specifically focusing on them.
> 
> Then there's the backlight bleed.
> 
> 
> 
> This bothers me enough that I'm willing to try any of the home remedies out there, including opening up the case, if needed.
> 
> I haven't tried to overclock it yet. I bought it primarily for the real estate, so I won't lose sleep if it never goes past 60 fps.
> 
> I knew it was going to be a gamble, and as luck would have it, the one I received has a few more imperfections than I would have liked. If I had to do it again, I'd probably play it safe and shell out the extra cash to buy from a store with a warranty and easier return policy (e.g. ipsledmonitors). All in all, though, I feel it was worth the asking price.


Try loosening the two middle screws on the bottom.. I might help with some of the bottom bleed..


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So I played BF3 and suddenly my screen went blue and then green. my game crashed. My screen is at 85Hz.


Ok also tested planetside 2 and i get this green dots on my screen. Switch it back to 60hz and my screen shakes


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok also tested planetside 2 and i get this green dots on my screen. Switch it back to 60hz and my screen shakes


Pics please.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Pics please.


Ok it's early in the morning lol 4AM here so will post Later for you


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Verified the members list. Entries that haven't followed the signup procedure are removed from the list. If your name suddenly isn't there: try again but read this time
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, who cares.
> It's not like someone would lie about having this screen, can't think of a reason why.
> Why bother checking if people actually posted pictures, or maybe you just have nothing useful to do
Click to expand...

Yes, I am indeed useless. Thank you for your observation







Sorry I couldn't respond earlier to satisfy your need for attention, I was in my fluids class.


----------



## Aflac

Hey guys,

I just got my Qnix from Greensum and I'm more than happy with it. I didn't have any dead pixels and I was able to hit 120hz no problem.

The one issue I do have is some minor back light bleeding that is in the same spots as OneGun. I tried loosening the screws in the middle but that didn't help.

If I could reduce or eliminate that I'd have to say it's a perfect monitor.

Thanks,

Aflac


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok also tested planetside 2 and i get this green dots on my screen. Switch it back to 60hz and my screen shakes


Sounds like it could be your computer or GPU. Do you have any other monitor you can try gaming with to see if it persists?


----------



## jcgamer

So next week is going to be absolutely glorious.

I ordered 2 of the Qnix 2710's from Green-Sum on eBay and then I also have my Corsair k70 mechanical keyboard and some more RAM to boot.

I hope these monitors are perfect/near perfect. Wish me luck!


----------



## coolfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcgamer*
> 
> So next week is going to be absolutely glorious.
> 
> I ordered 2 of the Qnix 2710's from Green-Sum on eBay and then I also have my Corsair k70 mechanical keyboard and some more RAM to boot.
> 
> I hope these monitors are perfect/near perfect. Wish me luck!


green-sum is a great chap to deal with!


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> You need to create the custom resolution using CRU. The nVidia Control Panel does not create resolutions that are detected as native. Just be sure to uncheck "Include extension block" in the utility before rebooting.
> 
> As a side note, some games just suck and seem to set 60hz no matter what. I have yet to find a tool that overrides those situations, so if anyone else knows please chime in.


I know some Unreal engine games are capped at 62fps.


----------



## jcgamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolfire*
> 
> green-sum is a great chap to deal with!


I'm hoping that's not sarcasm!


----------



## OCNOTE2

Qnix/matte from ebay seller. I was able to over clock to 99hz with Nvidia Gtx 275 (really old dog). I am very happy with the purchase and thanks to OCN ( and members) for all helpful information.

edited
P.S no dead pixels, little BLB at the bottom

Two different pics cuz I switched the monitors left to right or right to left.


----------



## coolfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcgamer*
> 
> I'm hoping that's not sarcasm!


Definitely not, mate! lol

They're good!


----------



## saberX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If you're wondering whether it might work or not, you have two scenarios:
> 
> 1) Pushing a 1080p signal from the graphics card to rely on the monitor's scaler - this does not work as the monitor lacks a scaler. It also means: forget about non-PC sources which don't support 1440p.
> 
> 2) Pushing a 1080p resolution (rendered) while using GPU scaling - this outputs a 1440p signal from the graphics card but everything is rendered at 1080p internally - this DOES work.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saberX*
> 
> ok Scenario 2 is what I'm looking for. If someone could post a picture of Firefox or chrome with this site open in that scenario that would be perfect. Thnx


Bump. Some kind soul plz take a pic of scenario 2 for me.


----------



## DiceAir

Ok I may have found my issue. I think my cards can't handle this resolution so well. When i disable my one of my GTX570s My flickering and screen shake stops. I only tested Battlefield 3 so far. Maybe it's time for upgrade


----------



## BlauGruen

Has someone tested what Qnix QX2710 is really drawing when operating? So far, I haven't seen mentioned any max and min values. The average 43-45W in the descriptions seem minimal worse than or equal to other 2560x1440 LEDs from Sony, Fujitsu, Iiyama and Philips (ViewSonic 27",Fujitsu P Line P27T-7, Iiyama ProLite XB2776QS, Philips 272P4QPJKEB).


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok I may have found my issue. I think my cards can't handle this resolution so well. When i disable my one of my GTX570s My flickering and screen shake stops. I only tested Battlefield 3 so far. Maybe it's time for upgrade


I have GT570s in SLI. I am not only running fine but i have been able to get probably further in overclocking this monitor than most. If disabling SLI fixes it then i would look at this from two stand points.

First software - Check over the drivers and possibly do a full and complete re-install of the drivers. There is several good nvidia driver re-install methods that completely wipe any issues that could be present.

Second hardware - One thing you might try is moving the secondary card to the top and then retry SLI. My top and bottom cards have distinctly different performance in terms of overclocking. It is possible you have a card going bad and when in SLI you get dragged down. You may also have a bad SLI bridge.

Just some thoughts before you drop the 570s. But if you are wanting to upgrade the 700 series are a bit more setup for overclocking.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok I may have found my issue. I think my cards can't handle this resolution so well. When i disable my one of my GTX570s My flickering and screen shake stops. I only tested Battlefield 3 so far. Maybe it's time for upgrade


Ok so I swapped my GTX 570's arround and i must say I'm able to hit 96Hz with only slight vertical lines. Should I wait for new Nvidia Drivers or so?


----------



## BlauGruen

I have found as max value 53W related to my question above but it is for Samsung SyncMaster S27B971D of course without OC. I assume the value comes close to one of the Qnix.


----------



## 6steven9

Has anyone bought any of these monitors for newegg i noticed they have started stocking them. They are a little pricer then ebay i'm not sure though if these are "better" quality ie. if they are pixel perfect or not but be cool to know I would def trust buying something from newegg before ebay and newegg deals with the returns as well..


----------



## DiceAir

does anyone know how I can test if my monitor or my display card is giving me horizontal lines in games like bf3 and far cry 3. I've just tested planetside 2 and so far it looks ok. BTW on my desktop my screen looks fine.

Also it will always display horizontal lines at the same area. This is what I've tested so far.

Old monitor is asus ve247H

I ran the same games using build in and gpu sacaling @ 1080p and everything looks fine no lines even with 8xmsaa. Went back to my old monitor and even on 1080p I get horizontal lines. I used the same cable. With SLI disabled it works just fine on both monitors but with enabled on the qnix I get horizontal lines

Edit: Just tested nvidia faceworks and it work fine


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Has anyone bought any of these monitors for newegg i noticed they have started stocking them. They are a little pricer then ebay i'm not sure though if these are "better" quality ie. if they are pixel perfect or not but be cool to know I would def trust buying something from newegg before ebay and newegg deals with the returns as well..


It's the same thing as buying from ebay. It isn't really a Newegg product. It's still coming from Korea and it still has the same risks. You still have to deal with the seller if you need to return it.


----------



## FlyingHellfish

Hi All,

I've a QNIX that runs happily at 120hz. All good up until now on a GTX 670.

However I have recently upgraded to SLI and am having a minor (annoying) issue where I cannot select the overclocked refresh on BF3.

This is my process so far:
Removed the drivers and reset CRU.
Rebooted.
Reinstalled drivers and patched.
Rebooted.
Recreated the known good settings in CRU, unticked the option and set 120hz as the first profile.
Rebooted.
Applied custom colour profile.

SLI is not yet enabled. I can see 120hz in Nvidia CP and in windows screen settings. If I load BF3 up now I can select the native res @ 120hz, although of course one GPU is running at 0%.

I closed BF3 and enabled SLI. I can still see the option of 120hz on NCP and WSS and indeed can select the option in BF3.

However, having shut down over night, I can no longer see the option for 120hz in WSS - although it does appear in NCP. It appears that BF3 looks for the refresh rate in WSS and so cannot display it - I can only pick 59.9hz.

So, do I need to complete the steps in a different order? Perhaps set SLI up before patching the drivers?

I have tried placing the system in test mode as well, this made no difference.

Thanks


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*


Anyone have an answer to this yet?

Are there supposed to be spacers here? I removed them and put them in the corners where it seems like they should go. I was just wondering if it was just poor assembly. There were no bezels in 2 corners. This is what it looked like when I opened it up.


----------



## Emmett

with two 7970's I know you need both bridges connected for overclocking 100+ on these.

Will a single 7990 clock these 100+ ? If so I imagine 2 7990's would not be an issue either?

Thanks.


----------



## DiceAir

My issue could it be due to Setting frame render ahead to 1 or 2 in nvidia control panel or game?

Why is my default hertz is 59Hz and not 60Hz


----------



## SkullTrail

Debating whether or not to buy one. I found one for $250 from a private seller. Can I even OC it with my 7970 or is this a LightBoost-exclusive luxury? I would be going from three Samsung 23" 1080p monitors to one of these 1440p monitors.


----------



## Bobotheklown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Has anyone bought any of these monitors for newegg i noticed they have started stocking them. They are a little pricer then ebay i'm not sure though if these are "better" quality ie. if they are pixel perfect or not but be cool to know I would def trust buying something from newegg before ebay and newegg deals with the returns as well..


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/5380_20#post_20566418


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> My issue could it be due to Setting frame render ahead to 1 or 2 in nvidia control panel or game?
> 
> Why is my default hertz is 59Hz and not 60Hz


No this is not going to cause what you are seeing. Frame rendering does handle parts of the processing between GPU and CPU but you are only going to see a difference in framerate and motion judder. I have mine set to 1 for shadowrun and never have see what you are explaining. Many other games i have tried 1 for better mouse response but still have never seen that.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingHellfish*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I've a QNIX that runs happily at 120hz. All good up until now on a GTX 670.
> 
> However I have recently upgraded to SLI and am having a minor (annoying) issue where I cannot select the overclocked refresh on BF3.
> 
> This is my process so far:
> Removed the drivers and reset CRU.
> Rebooted.
> Reinstalled drivers and patched.
> Rebooted.
> Recreated the known good settings in CRU, unticked the option and set 120hz as the first profile.
> Rebooted.
> Applied custom colour profile.
> 
> SLI is not yet enabled. I can see 120hz in Nvidia CP and in windows screen settings. If I load BF3 up now I can select the native res @ 120hz, although of course one GPU is running at 0%.
> 
> I closed BF3 and enabled SLI. I can still see the option of 120hz on NCP and WSS and indeed can select the option in BF3.
> 
> However, having shut down over night, I can no longer see the option for 120hz in WSS - although it does appear in NCP. It appears that BF3 looks for the refresh rate in WSS and so cannot display it - I can only pick 59.9hz.
> 
> So, do I need to complete the steps in a different order? Perhaps set SLI up before patching the drivers?
> 
> I have tried placing the system in test mode as well, this made no difference.
> 
> Thanks


This sounds like you monitor driver is either messed up or there is another comparable driver installed for your monitor and after a reboot you are loosing profile association. This is when the monitor is registered as a different name, like when moving the monitor from one port to another you do not get to save your CRU settings as it is read as a "new" monitor.

You might try going into the device manager and see what your monitor is showing up as. Also you might want to try removing your monitors driver by uninstalling it their and reinstalling, And if it shows up as "generic display device" that could be part of the problem. Heck using the catleap driver could help too but if you have already it could be the catleap driver mixing bad with the old driver installed.


----------



## moonshine6456

Hello everyone, just got my monitor yesterday and have 1 question about 120hz









In the picture below, my NVIDIA control panel says the monitor is currently running at 120hz but on the windows panel it only gives the options of 59hz and 60hz. Is it suppose to be like this? How can I fix this, and how do I know if it actually is running at 120hz?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> No this is not going to cause what you are seeing. Frame rendering does handle parts of the processing between GPU and CPU but you are only going to see a difference in framerate and motion judder. I have mine set to 1 for shadowrun and never have see what you are explaining. Many other games i have tried 1 for better mouse response but still have never seen that.


Just played a round in battlefield 3. no artifacts so far. maybe because my cards is not being used that much. BF3 is the one game that will strain your card in such a way that it will crash me thinks. I'm getting green dots sometimes when i was running at 85Hz. remember 85Hz has more strain on GPU than 60HZ. What can happen when you overclock your monitor to far?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> Hello everyone, just got my monitor yesterday and have 1 question about 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture below, my NVIDIA control panel says the monitor is currently running at 120hz but on the windows panel it only gives the options of 59hz and 60hz. Is it suppose to be like this? How can I fix this, and how do I know if it actually is running at 120hz?


I'm assuming you've done this, but first make sure you patched the drivers with this. If you create a custom resolution and refresh with the nVidia control panel, it is not actually a low-level system resolution. You can create a low level built-in refresh rate using this. Be sure to uncheck "Include extension block."


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> Hello everyone, just got my monitor yesterday and have 1 question about 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture below, my NVIDIA control panel says the monitor is currently running at 120hz but on the windows panel it only gives the options of 59hz and 60hz. Is it suppose to be like this? How can I fix this, and how do I know if it actually is running at 120hz?


That is really weird and cannot be right. I would try powerstrip's horizontal line test to see if you are indeed running at 120hz or 60hz. One has to be wrong LOL.


----------



## BRAKKUS1

Does anyone know how to change the color/contrast for games? I've got it great for desktop through nvidia control panel but games are terrible!!


----------



## moonshine6456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> I'm assuming you've done this, but first make sure you patched the drivers with this. If you create a custom resolution and refresh with the nVidia control panel, it is not actually a low-level system resolution. You can create a low level built-in refresh rate using this. Be sure to uncheck "Include extension block."


Yes I have done all those, and just did it again, the same thing is showing. I tested with the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping and it shows that I have 120fps, (took a picture with a camera and all blocks are next to each other also) So I am not sure why it is doing this to me









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> That is really weird and cannot be right. I would try powerstrip's horizontal line test to see if you are indeed running at 120hz or 60hz. One has to be wrong LOL.


How exactly do I use this program? What and where should I be looking? :S


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> Yes I have done all those, and just did it again, the same thing is showing. I tested with the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping and it shows that I have 120fps, (took a picture with a camera and all blocks are next to each other also) So I am not sure why it is doing this to me


Did you reboot after making changes in CRU? Also, did you remove all the custom nVidia resolutions? You should only be using CRU at this point. The nVidia control panel is really only good for finding your maximum refresh during testing.


----------



## ShakDiesel

Do you have to reboot for the color profiles to take effect?


----------



## moonshine6456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Did you reboot after making changes in CRU? Also, did you remove all the custom nVidia resolutions? You should only be using CRU at this point. The nVidia control panel is really only good for finding your maximum refresh during testing.


Yes I rebooted after making chances with the CRU. I never made any custom nvidia resolutions o__o. The steps I took were, installing the nvidia patcher, install the CRU, create copy and past the current resolution with 120hz and uncheck "include extension block" -> then restarted and checked

When I installed the powerstrip program I found this 









Thanks for all your quick replies


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> Hello everyone, just got my monitor yesterday and have 1 question about 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the picture below, my NVIDIA control panel says the monitor is currently running at 120hz but on the windows panel it only gives the options of 59hz and 60hz. Is it suppose to be like this? How can I fix this, and how do I know if it actually is running at 120hz?


This doesn't directly address your question but you can also overclock your monitor using EVGA Precision X. You don't have to use the patcher etc. Just move the slider in Precision X to 120Hz and that's it.


----------



## moonshine6456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> This doesn't directly address your question but you can also overclock your monitor using EVGA Precision X. You don't have to use the patcher etc. Just move the slider in Precision X to 120Hz and that's it.


Thanks coel! I just downloaded and checked, and it is already 120hz so I guess it is actually 120:thumb: Been trying to play some games and haven't seen any pixels or artifacting yet. Hope it stays this way


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShakDiesel*
> 
> Do you have to reboot for the color profiles to take effect?


No just set them to default profile..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkullTrail*
> 
> Debating whether or not to buy one. I found one for $250 from a private seller. Can I even OC it with my 7970 or is this a LightBoost-exclusive luxury? I would be going from three Samsung 23" 1080p monitors to one of these 1440p monitors.


Do it omg just do it. Your 7970 is a fine match all around...


----------



## theilya

Hey guys I just wanted to confirm something with regard to X-STAR DP2710.

Does the stem come out of monitor or I need to take of the panel to take it off?
also, can I just pop in a cable from my old monitor into a power brick instead of using the converter adapter?


----------



## Bobotheklown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> Hey guys I just wanted to confirm something with regard to X-STAR DP2710.
> 
> Does the stem come out of monitor or I need to take of the panel to take it off?
> also, can I just pop in a cable from my old monitor into a power brick instead of using the converter adapter?


You need to unscrew a few screws at the bottom of the monitor. Tutorial here (different monitor, same stand):
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dgm_ips-2701wph.htm

Yes you can use a generic power supply or monitor power cord.


----------



## FlyingHellfish

Yep very weird. If I dropped out of SLI it would start working again (options available). Pop SLI back on and the modes are all there. But come reboot they're gone again.

Installed the Catleap .inf and readded the resolutions in CRU and I can now select it, even after reboot.

I'll see how it goes - hopefully that has fixed it, thanks!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobotheklown*
> 
> You need to unscrew a few screws at the bottom of the monitor. Tutorial here (different monitor, same stand):
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dgm_ips-2701wph.htm


Actually it has been reported that the X-Star stock stub is *not* in fact screwed in inside the bezel-whereas QNIX is-and thus can just be pulled out (with a fair amount of force though). So this would also be the only real diff between the two yet discovered, for the record.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyingHellfish*
> 
> Yep very weird. If I dropped out of SLI it would start working again (options available). Pop SLI back on and the modes are all there. But come reboot they're gone again.
> 
> Installed the Catleap .inf and readded the resolutions in CRU and I can now select it, even after reboot.
> 
> I'll see how it goes - hopefully that has fixed it, thanks!


No problem let us know how it goes so others can hopefully read this and not have to ask again.


----------



## Moragg

Had a massive scare today - I left my computer for a bit and when I came back the monitor was blank, bashing keyboard/mouse didn't work. I pressed the on/off switch under the monitor multiple times, nothing happened so I unplugged the DVI-D and pulled out power cable and put it back in - brief flash of light and then nothing







no test patterns or anything.

Turns out the comp crashed, and interestingly if the monitor is turned off using the button underneath pulling out the power cable does not reset this. I didn't realise because I'd taped over my LED, but the loose casing meant I saw a tiny bit of red light seeping through the edge


----------



## Strileckifunk

So when I first got my Qnix, I messed around with OCing it slightly, but couldn't keep it stable with anything > 96hz. Today I reread the guide only intending to put it back to 96 (reinstalled OS a few weeks back), but noticed the part about LCD Reduced in CRU and reduce DVI Frequency in CCC. Tried it out and I'm looking pretty stable at 120hz. There was a little graphical glitch when I first applied it, but I tested out TF2 for about 30 minutes and had no issues









Next is possibly opening this bad-boy up and correcting some of my bleed in the bottom right corner.

Is it weird that I don't really notice a huge difference in games, but scrolling through forums looks silky smooth to me now?


----------



## Strileckifunk

Edit: starting to notice some lines in the top right hand corner that stand out against the white top border of Chrome. Am I damaging my monitor?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> Edit: starting to notice some lines in the top right hand corner that stand out against the white top border of Chrome. Am I damaging my monitor?


Unfortunately I have not seen any solid info as to whether overclocking these monitors actually does any damage. I would imagine that sending more data at it must make its display controller process more which would make it run hotter, as with most other electronic components. I would try setting the clocks lower to see if it disappears and also making sure the monitor has proper ventilation. Even pointing a fan at the back of it as an experiment might be worth doing.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> Edit: starting to notice some lines in the top right hand corner that stand out against the white top border of Chrome. Am I damaging my monitor?


I only OC mine while gaming to avoid any issues..Its just not worth it to have smoother windows movements to me..


----------



## yellowsnow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> Anyone have an answer to this yet?
> 
> Are there supposed to be spacers here? I removed them and put them in the corners where it seems like they should go. I was just wondering if it was just poor assembly. There were no bezels in 2 corners. This is what it looked like when I opened it up.


just opened mine to put in a new stand and spacers are on the corner


----------



## Strileckifunk

I'm starting to suspect that it may be the cable I'm using, which is the one they sent with the monitor. Could anyone link a reliable replacement ?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> I'm starting to suspect that it may be the cable I'm using, which is the one they sent with the monitor. Could anyone link a reliable replacement ?


I've heard good things about these: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/dvi-cables/index.htm

Personally, I use one of these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2687&seq=1&format=2

The latter is 10 feet because of my setup, but you could go shorter if you continue browsing on the site.


----------



## theilya

that a bit expensive for a cable.
if you have amazon prime I think this one is worth it based on reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WA2NKY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> that a bit expensive for a cable.
> if you have amazon prime I think this one is worth it based on reviews:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WA2NKY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Looks a little thin to me..It sure isn't 24AWG..


----------



## saberX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If you're wondering whether it might work or not, you have two scenarios:
> 
> 1) Pushing a 1080p signal from the graphics card to rely on the monitor's scaler - this does not work as the monitor lacks a scaler. It also means: forget about non-PC sources which don't support 1440p.
> 
> 2) Pushing a 1080p resolution (rendered) while using GPU scaling - this outputs a 1440p signal from the graphics card but everything is rendered at 1080p internally - this DOES work.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saberX*
> 
> ok Scenario 2 is what I'm looking for. If someone could post a picture of Firefox or chrome with this site open in that scenario that would be perfect. Thnx


Bump. Some kind soul plz take a pic of scenario 2 for me.


----------



## wrathos

Hi guys,

So I bought a New QNIX QX2710 LED from green-sum in June... and just today, with no probable cause that I can determine, it refuses to be turned on. The light indicator (red, blue blinker) is none-responsive, and for all intents and purposes seems like a power failure of some kind.

I checked the power adapter, and the blinker indicates green, so I'm assuming there's something wrong with the panel itself (short circuit or bad connection somehow). But I don't know if anyone else had a case like this, hoping some of you guys might know what to do.

I didn't get the warranty (silly me), so any help would be appreciated. If I end up buying another one, I'll be sure to fork over that 50 bucks... sigh


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrathos*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> So I bought a New QNIX QX2710 LED from green-sum in June... and just today, with no probable cause that I can determine, it refuses to be turned on. The light indicator (red, blue blinker) is none-responsive, and for all intents and purposes seems like a power failure of some kind.
> 
> I checked the power adapter, and the blinker indicates green, so I'm assuming there's something wrong with the panel itself (short circuit or bad connection somehow). But I don't know if anyone else had a case like this, hoping some of you guys might know what to do.
> 
> I didn't get the warranty (silly me), so any help would be appreciated. If I end up buying another one, I'll be sure to fork over that 50 bucks... sigh


Try plugging it directly into the wall..


----------



## yellowsnow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Actually it has been reported that the X-Star stock stub is *not* in fact screwed in inside the bezel-whereas QNIX is-and thus can just be pulled out (with a fair amount of force though). So this would also be the only real diff between the two yet discovered, for the record.


i got the x-star glossy and it was screwed in so i dont think its wise to try to yank it out


----------



## DiceAir

So I removed my one card. Now only running 1x GTX570. OMW my games won't be as smooth but at least it fixed my flickering. I can go as high as 96Hz won't try further cause I don't want to break the screen. I'm so happy I know what the issue is. Still could be the motherboards PCIe slot but not going to worry. Will just get a single card cause actually I had issues for so long now with this SLI system of mine. Just get a top of the line card like MSI lightning and overclock it like mad.

Edit: My GPu is not downclocking @ 96Hz when in idle. How can I force it to downclock


----------



## phillyd

Buying an X-Star today







Can't wait to enter the world of higher-res media.


----------



## YazX

YazX, Qnix Evolution II OC result, can go with 120Hz but i noticed the screen becomes alittle bit dimmed, so lowered it to 100hz to get full brightness, and there is no actual difference between 120hz and 100hz, so 100hz is fine. no issues at all with the screen.


----------



## wrathos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Try plugging it directly into the wall..


Not sure what difference it would make... the monitor's been working fine until now;;;

[Edit] gave it a try and nothing happened. hahah


----------



## fifty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrathos*
> 
> Not sure what difference it would make... the monitor's been working fine until now;;;
> 
> [Edit] gave it a try and nothing happened. hahah


i bught one qnix glossy couple days ago ill probably receive mine next monday or so.
i bought it from green-sum as well and at the bottom of the page is well written the monitor have 1 year warranty..your doesn't?
if you voided the warranty just go and repair it, a friend of me repaired an lg tv 42 i was about to trash, with just less than a euro..
if you have an eletronic expert near your house consider to visit him..usually the damage they have is very little or non expensive as you think.


----------



## coli

So I got my X-Star, 1 red stuck pixel near the bottom center...
Couldn't do 120hz without glitches, but did 96hz just fine. Can't do DXVA (green screen), is that a AMD driver issue with the patcher?

Overall, very happy with the monitor. Now where's 4K for $400?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So I removed my one card. Now only running 1x GTX570. OMW my games won't be as smooth but at least it fixed my flickering. I can go as high as 96Hz won't try further cause I don't want to break the screen. I'm so happy I know what the issue is. Still could be the motherboards PCIe slot but not going to worry. Will just get a single card cause actually I had issues for so long now with this SLI system of mine. Just get a top of the line card like MSI lightning and overclock it like mad.
> 
> Edit: My GPu is not downclocking @ 96Hz when in idle. How can I force it to downclock


I noticed this too, that if you keep the monitor at 96Hz my video card won't downclock.

Here is one solution:
http://www.overclock.net/t/964370/howto-dual-monitor-downclocking-fix-for-nvidia-cards/0_40

Another solution is to just switch back to 60Hz when you're not gaming. That's what I do.


----------



## DiceAir

So what graphics card do yo guys recommend I use with one of this screens. My cards can't keep up with the games. I'm getting bad FPS in my games like 30-40FPS in newer titles.

I was thinking
780 lightning (when it comes out)
7970 Lightning BE
Wait for new AMD cards
Wait for new Nvidia Cards

I want to get the best performance out of my cards. No dual cards solution please


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So what graphics card do yo guys recommend I use with one of this screens. My cards can't keep up with the games. I'm getting bad FPS in my games like 30-40FPS in newer titles.
> 
> I was thinking
> 780 lightning (when it comes out)
> 7970 Lightning BE
> Wait for new AMD cards
> Wait for new Nvidia Cards
> 
> I want to get the best performance out of my cards. No dual cards solution please


I'm enjoying my single 780 GTX. It's overclocked a decent bit and the temps are still fine since the cooler on this particular model is a bit better than stock. The Lightning will probably be able to squeeze a bit more performance out of the overclocks, but probably not by much. I am guessing it will retail for over $700, so you'll have to do some number crunching to see if it will be worth it at a dollar to performance ratio.

If you wait for new cards, you'll likely be waiting until 2014 so it's a matter of how quickly you want to do some higher framerate gaming.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yellowsnow*
> 
> i got the x-star glossy and it was screwed in so i dont think its wise to try to yank it out


Well then. A counter report.


----------



## ronquilent

How do you guys calibrate these displays? I recently got an i1Display Pro and after calibrating with dispcalGUI at 6500K, 2.2 gamma I got a reddish hue profile in the end. Do you guys just use the software in the box and it does an accurate job?


----------



## Moragg

E
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> How do you guys calibrate these displays? I recently got an i1Display Pro and after calibrating with dispcalGUI at 6500K, 2.2 gamma I got a reddish hue profile in the end. Do you guys just use the software in the box and it does an accurate job?


That's... odd. Did you let your display warm up for ~1 hour first?

My post on calibration is http://www.overclock.net/t/1397938/my-spyder4elite-monitor-calibrator-loan-thread/160 scroll down a bit and you'll see it.

See if that helps fix your reddish hue problem.

Edit: the i1 display pro (xrite photo/display iirc) should be used with "LCD Adaptive HiRes" mode, not "LCD generic".


----------



## Barc0de

What are some of the monitors that use these panels? I am looking for more options as far as color profiles go.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> I'm enjoying my single 780 GTX. It's overclocked a decent bit and the temps are still fine since the cooler on this particular model is a bit better than stock. The Lightning will probably be able to squeeze a bit more performance out of the overclocks, but probably not by much. I am guessing it will retail for over $700, so you'll have to do some number crunching to see if it will be worth it at a dollar to performance ratio.
> 
> If you wait for new cards, you'll likely be waiting until 2014 so it's a matter of how quickly you want to do some higher framerate gaming.


Whats your FPS in games?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Whats your FPS in games?


BF3: 50-140 fps with most things on ultra (this is the worst, since the game is so highly CPU dependent, GPU usage isn't even maxed out)
Far Cry 3: 80-150 fps, all highest
BioShock Infinite: 100-130 fps, all mostly highest
Max Payne 3: 100-140 fps, all highest

These are the more modern games I have been playing recently. Also being stuck on the 320.xx drivers due to the Korean panel bug in 326.xx, there are probably more improvements that will come about once the 326.xx WHQL are released.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> BF3: 50-140 fps with most things on ultra (this is the worst, since the game is so highly CPU dependent, GPU usage isn't even maxed out)
> Far Cry 3: 80-150 fps, all highest
> BioShock Infinite: 100-130 fps, all mostly highest
> Max Payne 3: 100-140 fps, all highest
> 
> These are the more modern games I have been playing recently. Also being stuck on the 320.xx drivers due to the Korean panel bug in 326.xx, there are probably more improvements that will come about once the 326.xx WHQL are released.


I'm running 326.41 and it's been working fine


----------



## jbduck

Does anyone have two of these? I am thinking about getting two of them and run both of them off my Asus GTX 780, but i wanna make sure it will work first..


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbduck*
> 
> Does anyone have two of these? I am thinking about getting two of them and run both of them off my Asus GTX 780, but i wanna make sure it will work first..


If your card has 2 DVI-D (dual link) or DVI-I (dual link) - or 1 of each - it will work.


----------



## jbduck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> If your card has 2 DVI-D (dual link) or DVI-I (dual link) - or 1 of each - it will work.


"DVI Output : Yes x 1 (DVI-I), Yes x 1 (DVI-D)"

Sweet, thank you!


----------



## Stylook

HI, I forgot to put up the image as required:


----------



## Gloomfrost

Just wanted to say that I received my Qnix 2710 glossy from green-sum and am extremely satisfied. I am coming from my Crossover 27Q which after about 11 months got a red line through the panel.

OC'd straight to 120hz with no problems and omg so much smoother!!! First time ever seeing 120hz for myself, it'll be weird coming into work next week, the mouse will feel so laggy!







Haven't tried any games just yet.
One issue was the colour accuracy at 120hz, but I used the 120hz icc posted by dascth from a matte monitor (tried about 10 others, yours looked the best - thanks man! Wish you had a glossy though!







) except I'm at ~18 clicks from min for brightness, not 12 as suggested. Also one issue with 120 is the top right of the screen is a little dimmer than the rest of the screen - not sure what to think of this, but it's not really bothering me.

0 Dead/stuck pixels, and very minor BLB in the top right and panel squeeze bot mid that I have since rubbed out. Price was 280USD + an unfortunate $53 duties from DHL... (I live in Toronto).

Now for the good stuff:

*Comparison vs Crossover 27Q:*

- First thing I noticed was how light the Qnix was... it's very light compared to my Crossover (though my Crossover has the Pivot stand) - maybe twice as light in fact!
- My Crossover had 2 dead pixels and the BLB was a little worse than this Qnix, so I'm really happy that I got a good egg this time around. I got my Crossover from bigclothcraft and even had to return it because the first one had a lot of issues and a giant purple blob in the middle of the screen.. Much better this time around.
- Qnix is running @ 120hz!! That alone justifies the price-point, especially with Crossovers going for $100 more!
- The Qnix stand I found to be okay but it'll be annoying that I have to take the monitor apart to remove the neck to put my vesa pivot stand on which I will steal from the Crossover.

Question: Can these monitors do LightBoost or something similar? Also, 96hz does look better than 120hz in terms of pictures and videos; I would prefer to just keep it at 120hz but is there any updates on whether or not 120hz is more deteriorating to the pcb than 96?

Cheers,


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> E
> That's... odd. Did you let your display warm up for ~1 hour first?
> 
> My post on calibration is http://www.overclock.net/t/1397938/my-spyder4elite-monitor-calibrator-loan-thread/160 scroll down a bit and you'll see it.
> 
> See if that helps fix your reddish hue problem.
> 
> Edit: the i1 display pro (xrite photo/display iirc) should be used with "LCD Adaptive HiRes" mode, not "LCD generic".


Ok, so I followed your settings exactly but I kept white point to as measured. All I can say is I wish I had done this earlier. I could probably debezel the monitor entirely, hang it on a wall and pass it off as a poster picture. Simply amazing.

Thanks and repped


----------



## ronquilent

Also, to everyone who was checking to see 120Hz on the blurbusters browser test, turns out you have to detach all other monitors in order for it to work. Otherwise, the composition rate of Windows stays at 60Hz and reports the wrong refresh rate to the browser even if it's running on a 120Hz monitor.

Also, although I haven't tested this, running multiple 120Hz monitors in a multi-monitor setup will probably show 120Hz in the blur busters test since the composition rate will be the same for all three monitors.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Also, to everyone who was checking to see 120Hz on the blurbusters browser test, turns out you have to detach all other monitors in order for it to work. Otherwise, the composition rate of Windows stays at 60Hz and reports the wrong refresh rate to the browser even if it's running on a 120Hz monitor.
> 
> Also, although I haven't tested this, running multiple 120Hz monitors in a multi-monitor setup will probably show 120Hz in the blur busters test since the composition rate will be the same for all three monitors.


Yep, I have dual 120hz monitors and the test works as expected. When I used to have a primary 120hz monitor and secondary 60hz monitor, I noticed that Windows would alter the refresh rate of the app as soon as it passed fully into either monitor. If you open a completely fresh browser on the 120hz display with no other instances running, it might work properly. It possibly depends on how whichever particular browser (Chrome or Firefox b24) enumerates displays and refresh rates as well.


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Yep, I have dual 120hz monitors and the test works as expected. When I used to have a primary 120hz monitor and secondary 60hz monitor, I noticed that Windows would alter the refresh rate of the app as soon as it passed fully into either monitor. If you open a completely fresh browser on the 120hz display with no other instances running, it might work properly. It possibly depends on how whichever particular browser (Chrome or Firefox b24) enumerates displays and refresh rates as well.


Yes, I think if you re-open the browser directly on the 120Hz monitor then you'll get 120Hz reported. In that case it may not be the composition rate but Chrome itself not updating the browser's internal refresh rate.


----------



## Bobotheklown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Also, to everyone who was checking to see 120Hz on the blurbusters browser test, turns out you have to detach all other monitors in order for it to work. Otherwise, the composition rate of Windows stays at 60Hz and reports the wrong refresh rate to the browser even if it's running on a 120Hz monitor.
> 
> Also, although I haven't tested this, running multiple 120Hz monitors in a multi-monitor setup will probably show 120Hz in the blur busters test since the composition rate will be the same for all three monitors.


Wow nice! That would explain why everywhere except that test tells me 115hz


----------



## DiceAir

I just played BF3 this morning and I do see a small blur or screen shake in the middle of my screen when gaming. any way to test it in the operating system? BTW i overclocked my gpu. Can it be due to bad overclocking. Also after that switched to lower clocks while in game and still same issue. My issue is i don't want to get a new GPU if that's not the issue.

Could it also be due to bad DVI cable. if it is will a 3m 24AWG cable be enough


----------



## thekamikazepr

I recently returned my bad hp monitors, after an almost 2 month long fight with new egg..

My question is about "where and whom to buy from"

theres a couple in amazon for $310, new egg has 9one for $369 i think.

And ebay has them as low as $289.00

amazon told me the return is determined by the seller itself, i contacted him 2 hours ago.

Now if they do pay, 30 back shipping on amazon an/or new egg is it worth the extra expense?

Im scared of getting 6+ dead pixels or a DOA and having to pay half of the monitor cost to send it back to korea.

What sellers are good to buy from on ebay, do any offer return shipping or any return option plans?

Is it stil lthe same qnix and xstar? Xstar is on sell by dreamseller atm


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I just played BF3 this morning and I do see a small blur or screen shake in the middle of my screen when gaming. any way to test it in the operating system? BTW i overclocked my gpu. Can it be due to bad overclocking. Also after that switched to lower clocks while in game and still same issue. My issue is i don't want to get a new GPU if that's not the issue.
> 
> Could it also be due to bad DVI cable. if it is will a 3m 24AWG cable be enough


I am leaving for a float trip so i can't be too detailed. Overclocking my 570s seemed to make the monitor overclock less stable so i removed it.

The cable being 24AWG seems to be the best. The shorter the cable the better but as long as you keep it at or under 6ft(3m) it should be fine.


----------



## MarvinDessica

So my monitor shipped Friday and it will be tomorrow. Holy crap!


----------



## apav

Got a SquareTrade question... anyone know if they will still cover you if you would do something that would probably void the warranty? For instance, I want to open my monitor to unscrew the part of the stand. Thanks!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am leaving for a float trip so i can't be too detailed. Overclocking my 570s seemed to make the monitor overclock less stable so i removed it.
> 
> The cable being 24AWG seems to be the best. The shorter the cable the better but as long as you keep it at or under 6ft(3m) it should be fine.


I can also get a 1.5M Gold plated 28AWG Cable. Will that be good enough. i suppose the stock cable is to weak to handle the resolution


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I can also get a 1.5M Gold plated 28AWG Cable. Will that be good enough. i suppose the stock cable is to weak to handle the resolution


You keep asking like we know for a fact, but really all we can do is recommend based on what has generally given people success. The monitor itself might not be able to handle a higher refresh, or it might be a bad cable. It's all about trial and error.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> You keep asking like we know for a fact, but really all we can do is recommend based on what has generally given people success. The monitor itself might not be able to handle a higher refresh, or it might be a bad cable. It's all about trial and error.


I think the main problem is I don't know how to proper troubleshoot. I want to start with the easy stuff the work to stuff i have to buy. Thinking of first trying another cable. is there anything else I can try before buying another cable? Another thing I noticed if I'm not mistaking the cable that you get is not gold plated.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I think the main problem is I don't know how to proper troubleshoot. I want to start with the easy stuff the work to stuff i have to buy. Thinking of first trying another cable. is there anything else I can try before buying another cable? Another thing I noticed if I'm not mistaking the cable that you get is not gold plated.


If you've done everything you can at a software level (trying different drivers, various refresh rates) and you've tried both connectors on your video card(s) and nothing seems to work there, then the cable is the next logical move. Can you swap the included cable with a friend's cable so you can try for free?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> If you've done everything you can at a software level (trying different drivers, various refresh rates) and you've tried both connectors on your video card(s) and nothing seems to work there, then the cable is the next logical move. Can you swap the included cable with a friend's cable so you can try for free?


Don't have a friend with another dual link DVI cable. The cable i'm getting is the following.

Connector Type: DVI-D male to DVI-D male
Signal Type: Digital
Length: 2 Meter
Gauge: 28AWG
Pin Configuration: 24 + 1
Conductor Plating: None
Shielding level: Triple
Shielding type: EMI
1080p support: Yes
Bandwidth: Dual Link
Maximum Resolution: 2560x1600
Min Clock Freq: 21.76 Mhz
Max Clock Freq: 165 Mhz x 2
Max Thoroughput: 7.4 Gbps
Pixels per cycle 2:
Bits per Pixel 24:
DDWG Compliant: Yes
HDCP Compliant: Yes
ROHS Compliant Yes
UL Certified Yes
CL2 (In-Wall): No
VW-1: Yes
Voltage Rating: 30V
Temperature Rating: 80° C

It's not really expensive. should i still go for it? If I want to go better it's like 10x more expensive here

BTW What do you mean by various refresh rates. Do you think i should actually go higher refresh rates?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Don't have a friend with another dual link DVI cable. The cable i'm getting is the following.
> 
> Connector Type: DVI-D male to DVI-D male
> Signal Type: Digital
> Length: 2 Meter
> Gauge: 28AWG
> Pin Configuration: 24 + 1
> Conductor Plating: None
> Shielding level: Triple
> Shielding type: EMI
> 1080p support: Yes
> Bandwidth: Dual Link
> Maximum Resolution: 2560x1600
> Min Clock Freq: 21.76 Mhz
> Max Clock Freq: 165 Mhz x 2
> Max Thoroughput: 7.4 Gbps
> Pixels per cycle 2:
> Bits per Pixel 24:
> DDWG Compliant: Yes
> HDCP Compliant: Yes
> ROHS Compliant Yes
> UL Certified Yes
> CL2 (In-Wall): No
> VW-1: Yes
> Voltage Rating: 30V
> Temperature Rating: 80° C
> 
> It's not really expensive. should i still go for it? If I want to go better it's like 10x more expensive here
> 
> BTW What do you mean by various refresh rates. Do you think i should actually go higher refresh rates?


Try to get a 24AWG cable if you can. If the cable is returnable then there shouldn't be much to worry about. In the end of the day, it's also handy to just have an extra DVI cable laying around.

Try higher and lower refresh rates, see if you are hitting a hard wall of cutoff at around 96hz or if it's variable. Testing things for a few seconds shouldn't damage the monitor, even if the picture is all wacky.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Try to get a 24AWG cable if you can. If the cable is returnable then there shouldn't be much to worry about. In the end of the day, it's also handy to just have an extra DVI cable laying around.
> 
> Try higher and lower refresh rates, see if you are hitting a hard wall of cutoff at around 96hz or if it's variable. Testing things for a few seconds shouldn't damage the monitor, even if the picture is all wacky.


But on 60hz it's not working. Will higher hz fix my issue


----------



## DiceAir

my bad for double post


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> But on 60hz it's not working. Will higher hz fix my issue


Oh, well that's a pretty bad sign. If your other monitor works with the same cable at 60hz, then there could be an issue with the QNIX.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Oh, well that's a pretty bad sign. If your other monitor works with the same cable at 60hz, then there could be an issue with the QNIX.


Can it be that some of the pins or maybe the cable is not making enough contact or maybe some signal issue. Remember my old screen only single link DVI so maybe something to do with the extra signal. Will try new cable this week. Still find it funny that with the new screen I will find some green dots on blacks and only in games when I have SLi enabled and also funny that I normally see the issue in games and never on desktop.


----------



## nuttybars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So what graphics card do yo guys recommend I use with one of this screens. My cards can't keep up with the games. I'm getting bad FPS in my games like 30-40FPS in newer titles.
> 
> I was thinking
> 780 lightning (when it comes out)
> 7970 Lightning BE
> Wait for new AMD cards
> Wait for new Nvidia Cards
> 
> I want to get the best performance out of my cards. No dual cards solution please


Wait for AMD cards since they're close (within a month and a half roughly from reports). Any more than that and you'll always be waiting for the next gen. The reason I say this is the 79xx prices are dropping rapidly and NVIDIA cards will probably drop when the new cards release. I'm playing on a 570 right now so I'm in the same boat.

According to leaked information (most likely fake), the new AMD cards are going to be extremely competitive with the 780. The 7970 and 7950 are already on par with the 770 so hopefully it works out for the better.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nuttybars*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So what graphics card do yo guys recommend I use with one of this screens. My cards can't keep up with the games. I'm getting bad FPS in my games like 30-40FPS in newer titles.
> 
> I was thinking
> 780 lightning (when it comes out)
> 7970 Lightning BE
> Wait for new AMD cards
> Wait for new Nvidia Cards
> 
> I want to get the best performance out of my cards. No dual cards solution please
> 
> 
> 
> Wait for AMD cards since they're close (within a month and a half roughly from reports). Any more than that and you'll always be waiting for the next gen. The reason I say this is the 79xx prices are dropping rapidly and NVIDIA cards will probably drop when the new cards release. I'm playing on a 570 right now so I'm in the same boat.
> 
> According to leaked information (most likely fake), the new AMD cards are going to be extremely competitive with the 780. The 7970 and 7950 are already on par with the 770 so hopefully it works out for the better.
Click to expand...

I've seen a lot of people say 9970 is between 780 and Titan - even ignoring the probably fake "specs" that were shown.

Hopefully UK pricing is good, the GTX780 and 770 are much more expensive here than across the pond.


----------



## Moragg

Aaaand just came to the realisation that 1440p is not enough. It is just enough for 2 windows open side by side, any more and it gets cluttered.









8K cannot get here soon enough.

*I had this epiphany while following the Skyrim Revisited modding guide, and only being halfway through after 15 hours of modding"


----------



## Quiksmage

Oh damn I didn't realize I had such a colorful section on my screen. Only shows up on certain colors lol. This is a grey.


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quiksmage*
> 
> Oh damn I didn't realize I had such a colorful section on my screen. Only shows up on certain colors lol. This is a grey.


Yikes
Prior to my qnix monitors , i went through 2 monoprice monitors, one of which looked about as bad


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So I removed my one card. Now only running 1x GTX570. OMW my games won't be as smooth but at least it fixed my flickering. I can go as high as 96Hz won't try further cause I don't want to break the screen. I'm so happy I know what the issue is. Still could be the motherboards PCIe slot but not going to worry. Will just get a single card cause actually I had issues for so long now with this SLI system of mine. Just get a top of the line card like MSI lightning and overclock it like mad.
> 
> Edit: My GPu is not downclocking @ 96Hz when in idle. How can I force it to downclock


Probably the same reason it won't downclock on my 120hz monitor. It's sending more than a single 60hz signal, so it won't fully downclock because it wouldn't be able to run it at idle speed and keep that refresh. It does the same thing running 2 or more 60hz screens.

It does downclock, just not all the way.


----------



## PinoJet

Hello,

I currently use a Samsung SyncMaster 226BW 22" and a GTX 580 1,5GB. So I wanted to ask if my GPU is capable of running a dual monitor set-up with a QNIX QX2710 and my old Samsung 226BW?

And can anyone recommend a good ebay seller for EU-buyers? Maybe some1 had some good/bad experiences specifically with purchases in the EU-countries (since I would be ordering from Austria).


----------



## ronquilent

I think calibrating @96/100Hz is the sweet spot. Has anyone actually gotten a super stable overclock @120Hz? (0 random faint blue lines)


----------



## DiceAir

My issue. Could it be the internal speakers interfering with my screen?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> I think calibrating @96/100Hz is the sweet spot. Has anyone actually gotten a super stable overclock @120Hz? (0 random faint blue lines)


I think Spartan managed to push his to 152Hz, so I imagine 120Hz is very stable for him - monoprice cable iirc.
Mine is very nearly stable, very, very occasionally I get a line but that's it - off stock cable.

I could probably get 120Hz stable if I tweaked all the settings down as far as possible, but that takes :effort: and my calibration is for the LCD Reduced profile, changing it would mean the colours would shift again, and since I don't have the calibrator anymore I don't want my colours to be off.


----------



## ronquilent

Does this look comparable to the 28AWG monoprice cable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ3WI8? Ordering from monoprice has $8-11 in shipping so unless I order a couple of them it won't be cost-effective.


----------



## phillyd

I don't plan on overclocking any, but would an "average" DVI-D cable suffice for one of these monitors?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I don't plan on overclocking any, but would an "average" DVI-D cable suffice for one of these monitors?


As long as it's a dual link DVI cable, yes.


----------



## phillyd

How do I know if it's dual-link?


----------



## Moragg

A picture speaks more than 1000 words:


----------



## uio77

Hello guys:

I have a Xstar running very stable at 110Hz. It's connected to a EVGA GTX 770 without any issue. However, when a I connect a second screen to the video card, this second screen starts flickering and loosing image every time I start gaming on the Xstar. The second screen is a 23" Asus running at 60Hz. I set up individually each monitor using Nnvia CP but I cannot find the right settings to stop the second screen misbehaving. Any suggestion from the ones running dual screen without issues??


----------



## CharlieHuggan

Hey guys, have a question google couldn't answer me -

When I get a PS4, can I use a DVI-D to HDMI adapter to play it on this monitor? I don't see why it wouldn't work. I know it won't display games above 1080p, but I don't really care, I have another 1080p monitor if I don't like using this one


----------



## LMka

Guys I've ordered a glossy QNIX 2710 and seller told me that there is no glossy versions left. Should I go for a matte version? Are colors overall worser and less vivid on a matte version than on a glossy version? Also comparing Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG/2755AMG-ACHIEVA Shimian QH2700 Lite Edge-CLUB(they use the same AH-IPS LG panel) to a QNIX 2710 - which one is better? I've checked the numbers and FAQ but real life usually a different story. Maybe someone here has both PLS and IPS displays so he can tell the difference? Sorry if it was already discussed but it is just impossible to read 560 pages. Also I've checked some videos and PLS seem to be less sharp and colors are more unnatural(reddish)than on IPS panels.In my local currency it is going to be like 320 dollars for a QNIX 2710 and 460 for Achieva, is it worth going for an IPS?Huge thanks

IPS is better on this video for example:


----------



## fifty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uio77*
> 
> Hello guys:
> 
> I have a Xstar running very stable at 110Hz. It's connected to a EVGA GTX 770 without any issue. However, when a I connect a second screen to the video card, this second screen starts flickering and loosing image every time I start gaming on the Xstar. The second screen is a 23" Asus running at 60Hz. I set up individually each monitor using Nnvia CP but I cannot find the right settings to stop the second screen misbehaving. Any suggestion from the ones running dual screen without issues??


perhaps all of this troubles can be the missing scaler on the qnix/xtar ?


----------



## phillyd

Thanks for the help!


----------



## DiceAir

So i managed to find a 24AWG cable here 1.8M. Will 1.8M be to long or is it actually good. Not Expensive at all


----------



## phillyd

That definitely won't be too long.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> That definitely won't be too long.


Cool. I'm thinking of getting 2. 1 for when we need another dual link cable


----------



## LMka

Come on guys, please help. Someone should know.

*Guys I've ordered a glossy QNIX 2710 and seller told me that there is no glossy versions left. Should I go for a matte version? Are colors overall worser and less vivid on a matte version than on a glossy version? Also comparing Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG/2755AMG-ACHIEVA Shimian QH2700 Lite Edge-CLUB(they use the same AH-IPS LG panel) to a QNIX 2710 - which one is better? I've checked the numbers and FAQ but real life usually a different story. Maybe someone here has both PLS and IPS displays so he can tell the difference? Sorry if it was already discussed but it is just impossible to read 560 pages. Also I've checked some videos and PLS seem to be less sharp and colors are more unnatural(reddish)than on IPS panels.In my local currency it is going to be like 320 dollars for a QNIX 2710 and 460 for Achieva, is it worth going for an IPS?Huge thanks

IPS is better on this video for example:




Edited by LMka - Today at 6:40 am View History*


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LMka*
> 
> Come on guys, please help. Someone should know.
> 
> *Guys I've ordered a glossy QNIX 2710 and seller told me that there is no glossy versions left. Should I go for a matte version? Are colors overall worser and less vivid on a matte version than on a glossy version? Also comparing Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG/2755AMG-ACHIEVA Shimian QH2700 Lite Edge-CLUB(they use the same AH-IPS LG panel) to a QNIX 2710 - which one is better? I've checked the numbers and FAQ but real life usually a different story. Maybe someone here has both PLS and IPS displays so he can tell the difference? Sorry if it was already discussed but it is just impossible to read 560 pages. Also I've checked some videos and PLS seem to be less sharp and colors are more unnatural(reddish)than on IPS panels.In my local currency it is going to be like 320 dollars for a QNIX 2710 and 460 for Achieva, is it worth going for an IPS?Huge thanks
> 
> IPS is better on this video for example:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edited by LMka - Today at 6:40 am View History*


PLS is more red, but the massive colour shift on OCing makes that negligible. You should be able to find a decent ICC profile on here to fix that.

Look at your current monitor, if there are any reflections at all matte will look better. The IQ difference is minor as this is a light (but effective) AG coating.


----------



## LMka

I already have a 27 inch 1080pn TN panel. Is it worth 150 dollars for selling mine and going for a QNIX 2710? Or should I go directly for the Achieva?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LMka*
> 
> I already have a 27 inch 1080pn TN panel. Is it worth 150 dollars for selling mine and going for a QNIX 2710? Or should I go directly for the Achieva?


Afaik only the PLS versions have a semi-matte option, which to me is worth $100 by itself.

"Directly" suggests you think the Achieva is better, but once calibrated nothing currently available beats an OCed PLS.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> I think calibrating @96/100Hz is the sweet spot. Has anyone actually gotten a super stable overclock @120Hz? (0 random faint blue lines)


I'm able to overclock to 120hz with no artifacts. Gaming on it is just incredible


----------



## AznCQ

I have a question.

Is anyone having an issue with the color accuracy changing throughout the day.

Like for instance, I'll calibrate it and the colors will end up perfect. Then a few hours later, I check the colors and they're off again.

Last night the colors were just fine, then I checked them this morning and the gamma skyrocketed with all the blacks grays being off the charts.

Sometimes the colors will go back to being "accurate" after a while without me doing anything. It's bizzare

Does anyone have this issue and is there a solution?

I am also overclocked at 120HZ, however seems to have same behavior at 96HZ (to a lesser extent but I need to do more testing).


----------



## David164v8

Qnix arrived today, working great! Haven't spotted any dead pixels (and don't want to go looking for them) and I've overclocked it to 96Hz. 120Hz worked, but I got some faint lines across the screen.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I think Spartan managed to push his to 152Hz, so I imagine 120Hz is very stable for him - monoprice cable iirc.
> Mine is very nearly stable, very, very occasionally I get a line but that's it - off stock cable.
> 
> I could probably get 120Hz stable if I tweaked all the settings down as far as possible, but that takes :effort: and my calibration is for the LCD Reduced profile, changing it would mean the colors would shift again, and since I don't have the calibrator anymore I don't want my colours to be off.


I don't see any side effects at on my monitor @120hz anymore. This took every form of tweaking currently mention in this whole thread(which i have been on since it starred). The amount of performance for this monitor seems to be very relative to the amount of effort(at least initial effort) you put into it. I have posted LOADS of info regarding what i have done for others to see and possibly replicate. I recommend going through the OP very thoroughly and take a look at some of my very long posts(search as i have no intention of posting them for a third time and they are very easily found by searching "front porch" or "custom timings").

Right now i don't see any problem with colors, gamma or uniformity unless i get up to about 131hz. And yes after using all manual timings and settings your monitor will essentially be set "different" than anyone else's so you will have to set the colors up manually or use a calibrator. As Moragg said it takes effort and is very similiar to overclocking a CPU manually(at least for me process wise). This is comparable to just upping the mulitplier VS doing all out with each variable and setting. You know which one will be better but there is a lot of people getting these that are not willing to read to much or put forth the effort. They are just going to switch the refresh and go. Well i am going to tell you right now that you are not going to get the best performance by just switching it to 120hz, it will work and may even work OK for some but not nearly as good as it could work. Heck if it worked with no issues or side effects this thread would likely be a LOT smaller.

Push comes to shove it IS possible to have 120hz rock stable for many of these with a little effort. I would say after all my tweaking i have about 25-30hz higher stability(if that makes sense) coming from "just" setting the refresh to 120hz.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> I have a question.
> 
> Is anyone having an issue with the color accuracy changing throughout the day.
> 
> Like for instance, I'll calibrate it and the colors will end up perfect. Then a few hours later, I check the colors and they're off again.
> 
> Last night the colors were just fine, then I checked them this morning and the gamma skyrocketed with all the blacks grays being off the charts.
> 
> Sometimes the colors will go back to being "accurate" after a while without me doing anything. It's bizzare
> 
> Does anyone have this issue and is there a solution?
> 
> I am also overclocked at 120HZ, however seems to have same behavior at 96HZ (to a lesser extent but I need to do more testing).


Many monitors do this to a very slight extent. If you have every had an office job were you look at text all day you would start to notice it a bit(depending on the monitor). It does not surprise me that you are seeing it "enhanced" after overclocking. All i can say is that it is another sign of slight instability and adjusting the monitor further may help but it will likely be present to point regardless. I have tested this and my monitor after "just" OC and no tweaking would have a gamma variance from time A to time B of .5 meaning it could vary from 1.7 to 2.7 from 2.2. After lots of stability work it ranges around .2 meaning from 2.2 it could vary as low as 2.0 and as high as 2.4. Many monitors for our graphics designers have to have less than a .01 variance from time to time.

For a monitor with no factory calibration that is overclocked with just a set it and leave method this is not unthinkable at all and is actually very probable.


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

I have a shimian and just sold a matte qnix and the image is, to my eyes, INDEED LESS SHARP, thats why I sold it. I have been trying like crazy to figure out if the matte coating caused this and if glossy looks sharper but I would have to see it in person. Even though the Qnix overclocked and did'nt look bad, I just could'nt do without the POP that my shimian has.


----------



## gio77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoHnYBLaZe*
> 
> I have a shimian and just sold a matte qnix and the image is, to my eyes, INDEED LESS SHARP, thats why I sold it. I have been trying like crazy to figure out if the matte coating caused this and if glossy looks sharper but I would have to see it in person. Even though the Qnix overclocked and did'nt look bad, I just could'nt do without the POP that my shimian has.


which shimian did you buy?
the QH2700 EDGE?


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

No, i think thats the newer model, I have a qh270 ipsbs. With the black and white bezel


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uio77*
> 
> Hello guys:
> 
> I have a Xstar running very stable at 110Hz. It's connected to a EVGA GTX 770 without any issue. However, when a I connect a second screen to the video card, this second screen starts flickering and loosing image every time I start gaming on the Xstar. The second screen is a 23" Asus running at 60Hz. I set up individually each monitor using Nnvia CP but I cannot find the right settings to stop the second screen misbehaving. Any suggestion from the ones running dual screen without issues??


I'm running 2 screens:
Qnix and a 27" 1080p monitor at 60Hz.

When I game I change the Qnix to ~99Hz using EVGA Precision X (highest I can go without using ToastyX's patcher because I have SLI).
When I start games my second monitor flickers a few times but once the game is started the second monitor is fine.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoHnYBLaZe*
> 
> I have a shimian and just sold a matte qnix and the image is, to my eyes, INDEED LESS SHARP, thats why I sold it. I have been trying like crazy to figure out if the matte coating caused this and if glossy looks sharper but I would have to see it in person. Even though the Qnix overclocked and did'nt look bad, I just could'nt do without the POP that my shimian has.


Maybe the Shimain has an AH-IPS panel. A couple of people on here have seen this panel vs PLS and say AH-IPS looks better.


----------



## junkrok

I thought it was well known that Glossy displays have better image clarity. It seems more likely that you would notice a difference between matte vs glossy than PLS vs AH-IPS.


----------



## ronquilent

It's the other way around actually. Post-calibration my matte QNIX was precisely on the dot for target color temp, gamma, and luminance level. Post-calibration my glossy Shimians were almost 250K+ off the target and about 10 cd/m2 off the target luminance level. This was using the exact same method.

Prior to calibration I thought that the matte had worse colors, luminance, etc. Having said that the clarity difference is slight but if you sit next to a window or light source then the clarity difference starts to become moot. The glossy panels will reflect your face, your blinds, and anything else you may have in the background almost like a translucent mirror. And this is coming from someone who is a very big fan of the glossy panels.

I think the people comfortable with glossy panels are so because they've gotten very used to subconsciously blocking out or ignoring the reflections. if you factor them in then I think you'll see the advantages of a matte depending on your environment. Oh, and the post-calibration black and color saturation are slightly better on the PLS panel.


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

junkrok, thats what my common sense tells me, thats why Im thinking of ordering a glossy. Its between that a $550 overlord tempest


----------



## JoHnYBLaZe

ronquilent, I know what your talking about with the colors, qnix has AWESOME colors. But I mean the IMAGE SHARPNESS is a little more blurry on the qnix, the graphics looked a little flatter or "aliased" if you will. Im guessing (hoping) it was cause of the matte coating on qnix. Lastly, I HATE reflections, I dont have my monitor in an environment where there are any reflections whatsoever. It's funny, we spend a lot of money on GPU's to enhance image quality so it stands to reason that we would also want the clearest picture possible


----------



## $ilent

The power adapter that comes with these, is it a decent unit or is it worth investing in a better one? Im thinking about being in the UK and having to use a 3 pin adapter or something.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Many monitors do this to a very slight extent. If you have every had an office job were you look at text all day you would start to notice it a bit(depending on the monitor). It does not surprise me that you are seeing it "enhanced" after overclocking. All i can say is that it is another sign of slight instability and adjusting the monitor further may help but it will likely be present to point regardless. I have tested this and my monitor after "just" OC and no tweaking would have a gamma variance from time A to time B of .5 meaning it could vary from 1.7 to 2.7 from 2.2. After lots of stability work it ranges around .2 meaning from 2.2 it could vary as low as 2.0 and as high as 2.4. Many monitors for our graphics designers have to have less than a .01 variance from time to time.
> 
> For a monitor with no factory calibration that is overclocked with just a set it and leave method this is not unthinkable at all and is actually very probable.


Thanks for the info.

Can you help guide me in the right direction for how to stabilize it more to have less variance in gamma? Does it have to do with the brightness clicks cause I had trouble finding any information about this.

Thanks


----------



## dioman

Guys, do you know how to change contrast on X-Start monitor? it only has brightness and volume control buttons, should I install some software for that?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Can you help guide me in the right direction for how to stabilize it more to have less variance in gamma? Does it have to do with the brightness clicks cause I had trouble finding any information about this.
> 
> Thanks


I have helped guide others in this aspect. If you search for my older posts regarding overclocking guides, manual timings and overall stability i have been quite detailed and extensive with my explanations. Please try the search parameters that i suggested in my previous post. Once you have read over my previous posts on overclocking you will find all the information i can offer. If i post these tips and tricks here it will be a re-post with no new info. You can also find some good information in the other TWO Qnix threads. One of them is even completely focused on overclocking.

Here is some pages that has a good deal of info from me and some other members to get you started.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3920
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/2210
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/490

This one has my initial review
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/100

EDIT: Other threads
http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel
http://www.overclock.net/t/1382348/post-your-pls-overclocking-results
http://www.overclock.net/t/1403318/qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls

EDIT2: Please do not be limited by the links i have presented. You can also get great info from the catleap OC thread and other pages in this thread.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioman*
> 
> Guys, do you know how to change contrast on X-Start monitor? it only has brightness and volume control buttons, should I install some software for that?


You can adjust contrast with your Graphics card drivers. Both AMD and Nvidia have color control.


----------



## TinyMud

I received my QX2710 Matte from Green-Sum in a record 10 day delivery from South Korea to Canada via DHL; however, the box arrived with a slash right over the screen area which was concealed by the bubble wrapping covering the box - so I did not notice it until I unwrapped. Upon inspection, I found a Fracture and Indentation about the size of Dollar Coin in the Screen.

I've notified Green-Sum about the Shipment Damage and filed a Shipment Damage report to DHL Canada.

I'm am waiting reply from the DHL Investigation Agent and Green-Sum as I type.

Wish me luck. I'm a Disabled Senior and have been saving for months to buy this Monitor.


----------



## dioman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> You can adjust contrast with your Graphics card drivers. Both AMD and Nvidia have color control.


Do you know, is that hardware control or software override? I mean is that sending commands through DDC/CI to monitor, or changing video signal itself (which is sucks) ?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioman*
> 
> Do you know, is that hardware control or software override? I mean is that sending commands through DDC/CI to monitor, or changing video signal itself (which is sucks) ?


Software override.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Software override.


+1 having NO OCD can suck and this is one of the finer points of that.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinyMud*
> 
> I received my QX2710 Matte from Green-Sum in a record 10 day delivery from South Korea to Canada via DHL; however, the box arrived with a slash right over the screen area which was concealed by the bubble wrapping covering the box - so I did not notice it until I unwrapped. Upon inspection, I found a Fracture and Indentation about the size of Dollar Coin in the Screen.
> 
> I've notified Green-Sum about the Shipment Damage and filed a Shipment Damage report to DHL Canada.
> 
> I'm am waiting reply from the DHL Investigation Agent and Green-Sum as I type.
> 
> Wish me luck. I'm a Disabled Senior and have been saving for months to buy this Monitor.


Good luck man, if Green-Sum gives you any hassle, then you can escalate to eBay Buyer Protection and they will kick his ass into gear.


----------



## Blackroush

Hi guys.. I just received my QX2710 from korea. But sometimes I notice flickering on the upper part of the monitor while iam watching netflix. I am not overclocking this monitor yet so it still in the 60hz. I am using GTX 780. any suggestion ? thank you.


----------



## ronquilent

Is there some science behind tweaking the back porch/front porch, etc. or is it just a guess and try repeatedly thing?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Is there some science behind tweaking the back porch/front porch, etc. or is it just a guess and try repeatedly thing?


In this instance they are going to be initially irrelevant. Pushing the pixel clock down as far as possible is going to be the first goal. If you have further issues after doing this (screen judder or shaking) the porch settings and polarity settings come in handy. The information regarding the front porch in regards to overclocked monitors is pretty detailed over in the catleap thread(search "front porch" with quotations) however it was most often not needed. I would definitely not try repeatedly and would read about what those settings actually do first and how that applies to an overclocked panel.

Personally i did very little tweaking with those settings in my venture(my exact settings are posted several pages back. easily found by searching "front porch" in this thread.


----------



## ronquilent

When I change the total horizontal pixels and total vertical lines the back porch and blanking empty out and if I add them back again manually then the horizontal pixels and vertical lines goes back to the original settings. Same thing with setting the pixel clock manually, it changes the refresh rate to 114.834Hz when using 449MHz as per your post.


----------



## apav

Guys I have a very interesting problematic pixel. If you want to hear something really strange, you might want to read this. I honestly don't know what it is, and I can't really explain it well.

So I have this one pixel that is normally fine (displaying the color that it should be). Never noticed this until today. If I put any window around the area it's in, a green pixel appears. Take the window away, it disappears. And it gets even more specific than this. If I put the window below or to the sides of where the pixel is located, it won't show up. Only when the window is above the pixel in question will it appear. If I drag the window down so the pixel is in the window, it's still there, but it isn't green anymore. If I move a white folder window over it, it turns into a grey pixel with a slightly pinkish hue. But if I maximize that window, it vanishes (meaning it starts to work properly).

It gets even weirder. So I tried UDPixel just to see if I can make it go away. I put a window near it so I can find it, and put the UDpixel flashing square ontop of it. After some time when I noticed it was still there, I got rid of the window. I still noticed the pixel in the flashing square even with the window missing. I moved the flashing square away from the pixel and I can't see it. So I moved it back, and I can still see it in the square even when the window isn't there. Just has to be ontop of the pixel for me to see it.

Next, I went into a full white screen via UDPixel just to make sure I couldn't see it because of my black wallpaper. I positioned my eye directly over the pixel so I have it pinpointed, clicked to go into a white screen, and I couldn't find a stuck or dead pixel. I tried all different colors, and still couldn't see it.

So, tl:dr? This pixel turns green when I put a window near (specifically above) it on the desktop, but goes away if I move that window away. If I put the window over it, it looks like a dead pixel, but it isn't a full black, more like a grey. If I maximize the same window, I can't see the pixel anymore. I also cannot see this pixel when viewing the different color palettes in UDPixel.

This is very very strage. Any ideas?

Unless this is a bad sign for my QNIX, I won't be returning it to ipsledmonitors.com. I can only notice it under very specific circumstances. I didn't even notice it until today. Besides that, this monitor is near perfect. One permanently stuck (red pixel) in the bottom left corner (barely noticeable), and that's all the defects I can notice besides this pixel. Also, this monitor can overclock to 135hz without artifacts. I keep it at 120hz though.

Thanks guys!


----------



## phillyd

Hey guys, make sure that you use the edit function, don't double post. It's already confusing enough with most of the posters lacking in avatars/


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> When I change the total horizontal pixels and total vertical lines the back porch and blanking empty out and if I add them back again manually then the horizontal pixels and vertical lines goes back to the original settings. Same thing with setting the pixel clock manually, it changes the refresh rate to 114.834Hz when using 449MHz as per your post.


You can't just use my settings you are going to have to adjust yourself and experiment. I specifically stated that these settings may not work for everyone if i remember correctly. I have not to this day actually found someone with a Qnix that could run as tight of settings as mine. The cutoff seems to be 461MHz usually(for the 8 or 10 people who shared timings with me, which might be all who have tried manually as most don't).

I am not sure about the refresh rate change but i am glad it did not just try and take the timings because you may not have gotten a picture back. Again IDK about the settings reverting or changing the frequency since it has never happened to me. Sounds like a good question for toastyX(maker of CRU) or the CRU forum. It may just be CRU not letting you apply VERY unworkable setting for your monitor's capability.

EDIT: Also if you do not get a picture bad while testing move the monitor to another port and boot again, remove the bad timings and start over. Also if that doesn't work connect another monitor to boot then connect the Qnix up AFTER getting to windows as a secondary screen. You can change it to primary afterwords. I have never seen this not work for me or anyone i have advised it to so you should be good.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys, make sure that you use the edit function, don't double post. It's already confusing enough with most of the posters lacking in avatars/


i am going to have to get me an avatar









EDIT: Avatar engaged


----------



## jcgamer

This was the second monitor I set up. The first one has barely any, but this one has quite a bit. Thankfully it'll be to side of me so it won't bother me that much.


Don't know why this is sideways considering I thought I fixed it :\


Otherwise, I'm pretty happy. These things are beastly!


----------



## iCrap

Just ordered the Qnix with displayport/ hdmi from bigclothcraft....
Anybody know how long the shippping takes?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Hey guys, make sure that you use the edit function, don't double post. It's already confusing enough with most of the posters lacking in avatars/
> 
> 
> 
> i am going to have to get me an avatar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Avatar engaged
Click to expand...

Good choice, now just edit, don't double post any more


----------



## JDMfanatic

Well, still looking for a solution to this problem:

Got a new dual link DVI cable from Blue jeans cable 24 awg, thought it would fix the issue but it didn't. Upon booting up my computer, my qnix monitor will have these weird flashing green artifacts that won't go away unless i unplug and replug the dvi cable from my graphics card. the bios and everything is okay, but after the welcome screen is when these artifacts start coming out.

Picture:

http://i.imgur.com/wfuiyzt.jpg

interestingly enough, my computer starts up with speedfan. When I drag around the speedfan window, the artifacts move along with my speedfan window. If anybody thinks a video of this would help, I could gladly post it.

Followed the overclocking guide using CRU utility, found the resolution in nvidia control panel and used it, overclock works flawlessly while im on it and after i remove and replug the cable, but I'm trying to avoid that. it's a little annoying. Does anybody know what's up? Any settings I can tune to fix this?


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have helped guide others in this aspect. If you search for my older posts regarding overclocking guides, manual timings and overall stability i have been quite detailed and extensive with my explanations. Please try the search parameters that i suggested in my previous post. Once you have read over my previous posts on overclocking you will find all the information i can offer. If i post these tips and tricks here it will be a re-post with no new info. You can also find some good information in the other TWO Qnix threads. One of them is even completely focused on overclocking.
> 
> Here is some pages that has a good deal of info from me and some other members to get you started.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3920
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/2210
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/490
> 
> This one has my initial review
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/100
> 
> EDIT: Other threads
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1382348/post-your-pls-overclocking-results
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1403318/qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls
> 
> EDIT2: Please do not be limited by the links i have presented. You can also get great info from the catleap OC thread and other pages in this thread.


Thank you this will be helpful!! One tip I did read was "enabling gamma on color profile" by selecting "use windows display calibration" which fixed my gamma by itself, maybe might be windows messing up my gamma by itself









Anyways my monitor is capable of near perfect colors at 120HZ, lets hope i can make it stay that way 24/7. Best monitor I ever bought btw.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic*
> 
> Well, still looking for a solution to this problem:
> 
> Got a new dual link DVI cable from Blue jeans cable 24 awg, thought it would fix the issue but it didn't. Upon booting up my computer, my qnix monitor will have these weird flashing green artifacts that won't go away unless i unplug and replug the dvi cable from my graphics card. the bios and everything is okay, but after the welcome screen is when these artifacts start coming out.
> 
> Picture:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/wfuiyzt.jpg
> 
> interestingly enough, my computer starts up with speedfan. When I drag around the speedfan window, the artifacts move along with my speedfan window. If anybody thinks a video of this would help, I could gladly post it.
> 
> Followed the overclocking guide using CRU utility, found the resolution in nvidia control panel and used it, overclock works flawlessly while im on it and after i remove and replug the cable, but I'm trying to avoid that. it's a little annoying. Does anybody know what's up? Any settings I can tune to fix this?


Unplugging and replugging in the DVI cable essentially removes the device and then re-adds it in the device registry. So you are basically unloading and re-loading the monitor driver itself. If after doing this everything is fine i would try re-installing the actual monitor driver in the device manager because it sounds to me like it is not loading properly from boot(which could be a code 28 or code 43 device errors)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Good choice, now just edit, don't double post any more


I don't double post i only "re-post" when people won't search for things. I am getting better though i only post links to the already stated information now(again and again and again)


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> This is very very strage. Any ideas?


Really odd... I would recommend trying a different resolution (that your video card would scale) to see if it still happens to the same pixel, which would then actually be a subpixel of a larger scaled pixel. Also, try a bootable linux distro to see if other operating systems exhibit the same issue. Basically wondering if it's GPU/driver related...


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Just ordered the Qnix with displayport/ hdmi from bigclothcraft....
> Anybody know how long the shippping takes?


I ordered Thursday, Shipped Friday, Here Monday. You can't even get ground shipping that fast!


----------



## WOD35

are all QX2710 able to do 120hz?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Just ordered the Qnix with displayport/ hdmi from bigclothcraft....
> Anybody know how long the shippping takes?


I've read the extra input models have the addition of a controller board that greatly increases the response time? were you aware of that or is it not a big deal?


----------



## MarvinDessica

Mines hit 96hz pretty easily. I LOVE this thing


----------



## helraza

I just noticed that I can see a ghost image of the top right corner of my web browser on my desktop. I was pretty disappointed to see that. I am running a screen washer video off of youtube to try and fix it, but I wonder if you guys had seen anything else. It also looks like that whole side of the monitor might be flickering a bit. Have any of you guys see this before and have some suggestions to fix?


----------



## sniggleface

Geez, seeing more and more of these reports where some artifacting suddenly happens. How long were you running it before seeing the ghosting helraza? What refresh rate?

I assume that running a higher refresh pushes the display controller more, but it would be interesting if someone had an actual temperature reading sensor and could do a definitive test at various refresh rates.


----------



## helraza

I've had this monitor for 3 months now I think. It was running fine until today as far as I can remember. I played around with multiple refresh rates, but at the time I noticed it I was at 100. I was also running one of the custom color profiles that boosted brightness. Only other thing to note is that i used electrical tape to seal the panel to help with black light bleed. However, that was done the day i got the monitor. I rebooted and the flicker seems to be gone not sure what could have caused that. Actually now that I think about it. I had a power outage earlier today for 30 seconds and everything shutdown suddenly. However, I have a high end APC battery backup unit protecting it. Not sure why it didnt keep the power on. Maybe the power shutting off like that damaged the unit, but I find that hard to believe.

So far I've turned off the color profile and turned off the overclock on the refresh rate. Hopefully this screen cleaner video fixes the issue. It's seemed to have already improved things.


----------



## helraza

The Screen Burn in Fix I found online seems to have fixed the issue for the most part. I will keep an eye on it.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WOD35*
> 
> are all QX2710 able to do 120hz?
> I've read the extra input models have the addition of a controller board that greatly increases the response time? were you aware of that or is it not a big deal?


I want to use the monitor with my laptop, so i had no choice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> I ordered Thursday, Shipped Friday, Here Monday. You can't even get ground shipping that fast!


Weird thing is though it hasn't been marked as shipped on ebay, nor did i get any tracking... ordered 2 days ago.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Guys I have a very interesting problematic pixel. If you want to hear something really strange, you might want to read this. I honestly don't know what it is, and I can't really explain it well.
> 
> So I have this one pixel that is normally fine (displaying the color that it should be). Never noticed this until today. If I put any window around the area it's in, a green pixel appears. Take the window away, it disappears. And it gets even more specific than this. If I put the window below or to the sides of where the pixel is located, it won't show up. Only when the window is above the pixel in question will it appear. If I drag the window down so the pixel is in the window, it's still there, but it isn't green anymore. If I move a white folder window over it, it turns into a grey pixel with a slightly pinkish hue. But if I maximize that window, it vanishes (meaning it starts to work properly).
> 
> It gets even weirder. So I tried UDPixel just to see if I can make it go away. I put a window near it so I can find it, and put the UDpixel flashing square ontop of it. After some time when I noticed it was still there, I got rid of the window. I still noticed the pixel in the flashing square even with the window missing. I moved the flashing square away from the pixel and I can't see it. So I moved it back, and I can still see it in the square even when the window isn't there. Just has to be ontop of the pixel for me to see it.
> 
> Next, I went into a full white screen via UDPixel just to make sure I couldn't see it because of my black wallpaper. I positioned my eye directly over the pixel so I have it pinpointed, clicked to go into a white screen, and I couldn't find a stuck or dead pixel. I tried all different colors, and still couldn't see it.
> 
> So, tl:dr? This pixel turns green when I put a window near (specifically above) it on the desktop, but goes away if I move that window away. If I put the window over it, it looks like a dead pixel, but it isn't a full black, more like a grey. If I maximize the same window, I can't see the pixel anymore. I also cannot see this pixel when viewing the different color palettes in UDPixel.
> 
> This is very very strage. Any ideas?
> 
> Unless this is a bad sign for my QNIX, I won't be returning it to ipsledmonitors.com. I can only notice it under very specific circumstances. I didn't even notice it until today. Besides that, this monitor is near perfect. One permanently stuck (red pixel) in the bottom left corner (barely noticeable), and that's all the defects I can notice besides this pixel. Also, this monitor can overclock to 135hz without artifacts. I keep it at 120hz though.
> 
> Thanks guys!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Really odd... I would recommend trying a different resolution (that your video card would scale) to see if it still happens to the same pixel, which would then actually be a subpixel of a larger scaled pixel. Also, try a bootable linux distro to see if other operating systems exhibit the same issue. Basically wondering if it's GPU/driver related...


Looks like it's the monitor, the exact same thing happens at a different resolution, and even in Fedora....

I just noticed something else. I don't think when a window (like a browser) is maximized it fully goes away. I can see the green pixel in the grey rectangle at the absolute bottom of this page, and if I scroll up into the white background, it turns to grey.

But wait it gets even weirder! I scrolled to the absolute bottom of this page, and went back into windowed mode (above the pixel), and the pixel turned to a faint green. If I scroll up (closer to the white), the pixel gets brighter green. The more I scroll down (to the darker color), it gets more faint. I'm just scrolling up and down repeatedly right now and the green is fluctuating in brightness.

So we have ourselves a pixel that responds differently to different variables, unlike a stuck pixel that is always static and one color, or a dead pixel that is always off. I have a green pixel that appears based on how I position a window on the desktop, changes in brightness based on the color of the window, and when the window is over it (maximized or not), it looks almost like a dead pixel on white backgrounds and green on darker ones.

I've never heard of something like this before. Have you? Any possible explanation as to why this is happening and if there's a way to fix it?


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinyMud*
> 
> I received my QX2710 Matte from Green-Sum in a record 10 day delivery from South Korea to Canada via DHL; however, the box arrived with a slash right over the screen area which was concealed by the bubble wrapping covering the box - so I did not notice it until I unwrapped. Upon inspection, I found a Fracture and Indentation about the size of Dollar Coin in the Screen.
> 
> I've notified Green-Sum about the Shipment Damage and filed a Shipment Damage report to DHL Canada.
> 
> I'm am waiting reply from the DHL Investigation Agent and Green-Sum as I type.
> 
> Wish me luck. I'm a Disabled Senior and have been saving for months to buy this Monitor.


Good luck, hope you get it sorted!


----------



## ronquilent

Why does green-sum *drop* the price when sales are _up_ and supply is _decreasing_ or at least constant? Doesn't seem to align with basic supply/demand microeconomics.

Only thing I can think of is it's a marketing ploy aimed to get more people to buy in a short period of time on gut decision... I guess money is the only thing that talks when your ad for the product is riddled with grammatical errors and reads like an unclear accent.

No gripes about the product itself though


----------



## oneilljstn

I am having a little issue with my overclock. When my qnix is the only monitor connected it overclocks perfect, 120hz without and trouble. But when i connect my 60hz tn samsung as well, the overlock stop working. The refresh rate in nvidia control panel still says 120hz, but when i do the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping test, its only says 60hz (when qnix is the only monitor connected it says 120hz)

Any suggestions?


----------



## fifty

ok i got my qnix from green-sum, no dp, none to a very little backlight, i can oc it to 96 (didn't test 120 yet) because i can't figure out how to increase the resolution up to 2560*1440, stuck on 1080p......running win 8 im trying to put the monitor on test mode no luck...

edit...plasma tv connected to the hdmi port was sticking res to 1080p...now running 1440p 120hz stright 0 wrong thing...i have also a s27a950 , what can i say..wow..
testing games now


----------



## WOD35

^ nice! and now it's time for an HTPC for the TV


----------



## DiceAir

So the cable i though was good wasn't. it wasn't even working but what about this cable?

http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/2m-premium-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2793


----------



## fifty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WOD35*
> 
> ^ nice! and now it's time for an HTPC for the TV


hehe no i will keep only the pc


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Looks like it's the monitor, the exact same thing happens at a different resolution, and even in Fedora....
> 
> I just noticed something else. I don't think when a window (like a browser) is maximized it fully goes away. I can see the green pixel in the grey rectangle at the absolute bottom of this page, and if I scroll up into the white background, it turns to grey.
> 
> But wait it gets even weirder! I scrolled to the absolute bottom of this page, and went back into windowed mode (above the pixel), and the pixel turned to a faint green. If I scroll up (closer to the white), the pixel gets brighter green. The more I scroll down (to the darker color), it gets more faint. I'm just scrolling up and down repeatedly right now and the green is fluctuating in brightness.
> 
> So we have ourselves a pixel that responds differently to different variables, unlike a stuck pixel that is always static and one color, or a dead pixel that is always off. I have a green pixel that appears based on how I position a window on the desktop, changes in brightness based on the color of the window, and when the window is over it (maximized or not), it looks almost like a dead pixel on white backgrounds and green on darker ones.
> 
> I've never heard of something like this before. Have you? Any possible explanation as to why this is happening and if there's a way to fix it?


This is bizarre.

Here's some solutions I can think off of the top of my head:

Massage it out
Flip windows upside down and see if same problem occurs
Plug it into a DVD player and see if it reacts to different Colours when playing a movie.


----------



## LMka

Please delete.


----------



## Tom114

So I'm looking at a Qnix right now, but I only have a GTX460 with 786mb, will that be sufficient? I don't game alot but it would be nice to have decent framerate at decent level of detail if I do game.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> So I'm looking at a Qnix right now, but I only have a GTX460 with 786mb, will that be sufficient? I don't game alot but it would be nice to have decent framerate at decent level of detail if I do game.


no it won't be enough. You would have to get 760 and better


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> no it won't be enough. You would have to get 760 and better


Well, that's dissapointing...

EDIT: I'm running now a dual monitor setup with a 1080p screen and 720p isn't that almost just as heavy as 1 1440p monitor?


----------



## MorroWest

Try running one game on each monitor and see how it feels









Your video card memory is to low to play in so high resolution normally.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> So I'm looking at a Qnix right now, but I only have a GTX460 with 786mb, will that be sufficient? I don't game alot but it would be nice to have decent framerate at decent level of detail if I do game.


Here's an older anandtech review for the card, which shows that many games are certainly playable at 2560x1600: http://www.anandtech.com/show/3809/nvidias-geforce-gtx-460-the-200-king

Obviously some newer titles are missing there, but as long as you don't max out the details and can live with 30-60FPS, it will work. Just be prepared to justify buying a newer GPU when you start to realize how good games COULD look on that QNIX.


----------



## AznCQ

I am happy to report that manually tweaking my timings have fixed the variance in color accuracy throughout the day!!

Basically, when you first overclock your monitor its pushing the pixel clock higher than what you really need it at. So the goal is to get the lowest pixel clock possible to maintain your 1440P @ 120HZ for maximum stability and less stress. (MUCH Less Gamma Shift, No more Uniformity issues, no more color variance throughout the day)

For reference, I managed to get my pixel clock down to 459 for 120hz


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oneilljstn*
> 
> I am having a little issue with my overclock. When my qnix is the only monitor connected it overclocks perfect, 120hz without and trouble. But when i connect my 60hz tn samsung as well, the overlock stop working. The refresh rate in nvidia control panel still says 120hz, but when i do the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping test, its only says 60hz (when qnix is the only monitor connected it says 120hz)
> 
> Any suggestions?


I use EVGA Precision X to overclock. Yesterday, it just stopped working. I overclocked to 99Hz and started up a game but it was nowhere near as smooth as it normally is. I checked Precision X and my second video card was not going to full clocks like it normally does when i change the Hz. Nvidia control panel was telling me I was at 99Hz but I know for a fact that it wasn't at 99Hz.

I uninstalled Precision X, rebooted, reinstalled it and it was fixed.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oneilljstn*
> 
> I am having a little issue with my overclock. When my qnix is the only monitor connected it overclocks perfect, 120hz without and trouble. But when i connect my 60hz tn samsung as well, the overlock stop working. The refresh rate in nvidia control panel still says 120hz, but when i do the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping test, its only says 60hz (when qnix is the only monitor connected it says 120hz)
> 
> Any suggestions?


Don't maximize your browser window on the Qnix monitor, if even the sides of the window reach the 2nd monitor, it will default to the 60HZ.

So just manually resize a good portion of the screen avoiding the edges and it should be full 120HZ. I think expanding the window full size without hitting the maximize will work too.


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> I am happy to report that manually tweaking my timings have fixed the variance in color accuracy throughout the day!!
> 
> Basically, when you first overclock your monitor its pushing the pixel clock higher than what you really need it at. So the goal is to get the lowest pixel clock possible to maintain your 1440P @ 120HZ for maximum stability and less stress. (MUCH Less Gamma Shift, No more Uniformity issues, no more color variance throughout the day)
> 
> For reference, I managed to get my pixel clock down to 459 for 120hz


What all timings did you use to push the pixel clock down to 459Hz?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> I am happy to report that manually tweaking my timings have fixed the variance in color accuracy throughout the day!!
> 
> Basically, when you first overclock your monitor its pushing the pixel clock higher than what you really need it at. So the goal is to get the lowest pixel clock possible to maintain your 1440P @ 120HZ for maximum stability and less stress. (MUCH Less Gamma Shift, No more Uniformity issues, no more color variance throughout the day)
> 
> For reference, I managed to get my pixel clock down to 459 for 120hz


I am very glad to see this. I have been trying to get those having issues to do this for a while and so far there has not been very many people who jump on the information. Most of the Qnix overclocking problems can be fixed with doing this and another benefit of the less bloated pixel clock can be a longer life span at that overclock with having less stress. This is very heavily covered in many overclocking and downsampling threads other than this one.

For anyone doing this it would be very beneficial for others if you post your pixel clock timings. Maybe if the information is a bit more predominant here others will start reading and adjusting there settings. If this happens the very redundant questions about instability issues will theoretically reduce quite a lot.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am very glad to see this. I have been trying to get those having issues to do this for a while and so far there has not been very many people who jump on the information. Most of the Qnix overclocking problems can be fixed with doing this and another benefit of the less bloated pixel clock can be a longer life span at that overclock with having less stress. This is very heavily covered in many overclocking and downsampling threads other than this one.
> 
> For anyone doing this it would be very beneficial for others if you post your pixel clock timings. Maybe if the information is a bit more predominant here others will start reading and adjusting there settings. If this happens the very redundant questions about instability issues will theoretically reduce quite a lot.


I'm going to go through the thread and try to accomplish this. I have thus far been OCing the monitor via Precision X only, but I am ready to take the plunge into the more esoteric. Thanks for all the links.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> What all timings did you use to push the pixel clock down to 459Hz?




Here are my settings. I tried using Spartan's settings at first but it sent my monitor straight into test mode (flashing red blue white stripes color). The only way to get out of test mode is to reset your computer.

So I basically started from my default settings, and just decreased total pixels vertical first, then horizontal until it started either going into test mode or artifact (lines and stuff). Then raised it until it was good.

If you get lines blurred artifacts, this means you are CLOSE! So just raise your values until its a clear image (this is your lowest value you are stable at).
How low can you go ?









This is on stock DVI cable that they provided me. I will buy a new cable and see if I can get even better results.


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> So I'm looking at a Qnix right now, but I only have a GTX460 with 786mb, will that be sufficient? I don't game alot but it would be nice to have decent framerate at decent level of detail if I do game.


It's not impossible, it just depends on what settings you want. If you can play newer games (BioShock Infinite, BF3, Tomb Raider, etc.) at lower/lowest settings with 30ish FPS, you will be fine.

If you want to play maxed out, you need at least a 7870 or 660ti/760.


----------



## RockHardMcNasty

So, I've read through the last 150 pages or so, and I've seen others ask questions like mine, but have not seen any real answers. I've been gaming on a Samsung S27A750D 120Hz panel for some time, and recently got a BenQ XL2720T to try out 120Hz + LightBoost.

I'm now looking to go higher res @ 120Hz, especially since my 780s don't really break a sweat @ 1080p.

Anyhow, I've been considering going with 3x Asus VG248QE panels in 3x1 portrait for 3240x1920 @ native 120Hz. However, these Korean panels are intriguing, and considering their better color reproduction (supposedly anyway, I've not yet seen either in person) I think as long as I were to get one that can hit 110 - 120 Hz without issues that I'd be happy, considering that I also wouldn't have any bezels in the middle of the display.

My primary concern with these Korean panels is the response time. The info on the FAQ of the OP states that these panels are no-go for twitch shooters. I know some people in this thread have gone from very fast, native 120Hz TN panels to these. So, for those of you who have experienced both first hand, how much real difference is there? I don't want color and resolution to "make up for it" if you will, I would rather, and am hoping, that it's a non-issue. This is really the only thing that still makes me pretty hesitant on buying one of these.


----------



## Shibuya

Is it normal for the screen to flash red and then green every time I boot up my pc?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockHardMcNasty*
> 
> So, I've read through the last 150 pages or so, and I've seen others ask questions like mine, but have not seen any real answers. I've been gaming on a Samsung S27A750D 120Hz panel for some time, and recently got a BenQ XL2720T to try out 120Hz + LightBoost.
> 
> I'm now looking to go higher res @ 120Hz, especially since my 780s don't really break a sweat @ 1080p.
> 
> Anyhow, I've been considering going with 3x Asus VG248QE panels in 3x1 portrait for 3240x1920 @ native 120Hz. However, these Korean panels are intriguing, and considering their better color reproduction (supposedly anyway, I've not yet seen either in person) I think as long as I were to get one that can hit 110 - 120 Hz without issues that I'd be happy, considering that I also wouldn't have any bezels in the middle of the display.
> 
> My primary concern with these Korean panels is the response time. The info on the FAQ of the OP states that these panels are no-go for twitch shooters. I know some people in this thread have gone from very fast, native 120Hz TN panels to these. So, for those of you who have experienced both first hand, how much real difference is there? I don't want color and resolution to "make up for it" if you will, I would rather, and am hoping, that it's a non-issue. This is really the only thing that still makes me pretty hesitant on buying one of these.


Disclaimer: I have *not* experienced Lightboost ever, but this is the stuff I've learned from reading:

Simply put, the only reasons not to get a Korean PLS are a) money and b)Lightboost
Lightboost has much less motion blur, and so would be better for people who do lots of competitive FPS.

For stuff like RPG PLS would be better for immersion as the colours would be better.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockHardMcNasty*
> 
> My primary concern with these Korean panels is the response time. The info on the FAQ of the OP states that these panels are no-go for twitch shooters. I know some people in this thread have gone from very fast, native 120Hz TN panels to these. So, for those of you who have experienced both first hand, how much real difference is there? I don't want color and resolution to "make up for it" if you will, I would rather, and am hoping, that it's a non-issue. This is really the only thing that still makes me pretty hesitant on buying one of these.


Coming from a 27" TN 120hz panel, I definitely did notice more ghosting but it simply wasn't bad enough to cease using. If you're sensitive to it you will notice. It sounds like you're not willing to compromise, but for me it was a non-issue.

And saying this is no-go for twitch shooters is BS. Here's a nice little run done by myself in a CS:GO GunGame match yesterday using this monitor:


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*


These settings also worked for my QNIX, and anything lower caused problems. However, CRU indicated that having a vertical value of 1445 was invalid even though it does test fine using the nVidia control panel. I raised it to 1450 and all is well with just a 2mhz increase. Thanks for testing this out!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> These settings also worked for my QNIX, and anything lower caused problems. However, CRU indicated that having a vertical value of 1445 was invalid even though it does test fine using the nVidia control panel. I raised it to 1450 and all is well with just a 2mhz increase. Thanks for testing this out!


This seems to be where most get stuck and my panel seems to be an anomaly being able to go further than that. These timings might be worth putting in the OP for other users to at least start from since it is definitely better than CRU's LCD reduced at least in this instance(with the Qnix).


----------



## WOD35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockHardMcNasty*
> 
> So, I've read through the last 150 pages or so, and I've seen others ask questions like mine, but have not seen any real answers. I've been gaming on a Samsung S27A750D 120Hz panel for some time, and recently got a BenQ XL2720T to try out 120Hz + LightBoost.
> 
> I'm now looking to go higher res @ 120Hz, especially since my 780s don't really break a sweat @ 1080p.
> 
> Anyhow, I've been considering going with 3x Asus VG248QE panels in 3x1 portrait for 3240x1920 @ native 120Hz. However, these Korean panels are intriguing, and considering their better color reproduction (supposedly anyway, I've not yet seen either in person) I think as long as I were to get one that can hit 110 - 120 Hz without issues that I'd be happy, considering that I also wouldn't have any bezels in the middle of the display.
> 
> My primary concern with these Korean panels is the response time. The info on the FAQ of the OP states that these panels are no-go for twitch shooters. I know some people in this thread have gone from very fast, native 120Hz TN panels to these. So, for those of you who have experienced both first hand, how much real difference is there? I don't want color and resolution to "make up for it" if you will, I would rather, and am hoping, that it's a non-issue. This is really the only thing that still makes me pretty hesitant on buying one of these.


I've read that the only models that have discernible input lag are the multi-input models which include the addition of a controller board. The DVI only models are direct and supposed to have very good response time I think 6ms


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shibuya*
> 
> Is it normal for the screen to flash red and then green every time I boot up my pc?


I been wondering about this too, mine will do the same if I turn it off from my power strip outlet that it's plug into, but it won't do that if I turn it off from the monitor and just leave the power strip on, never seen a monitor do this before.


----------



## RockHardMcNasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Disclaimer: I have *not* experienced Lightboost ever, but this is the stuff I've learned from reading:
> 
> Simply put, the only reasons not to get a Korean PLS are a) money and b)Lightboost
> Lightboost has much less motion blur, and so would be better for people who do lots of competitive FPS.
> 
> For stuff like RPG PLS would be better for immersion as the colours would be better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Coming from a 27" TN 120hz panel, I definitely did notice more ghosting but it simply wasn't bad enough to cease using. If you're sensitive to it you will notice. It sounds like you're not willing to compromise, but for me it was a non-issue.
> 
> And saying this is no-go for twitch shooters is BS. Here's a nice little run done by myself in a CS:GO GunGame match yesterday using this monitor:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WOD35*
> 
> I've read that the only models that have discernible input lag are the multi-input models which include the addition of a controller board. The DVI only models are direct and supposed to have very good response time I think 6ms


Thanks for the responses. I should have mentioned that, while the lightboost is nice, I am still happy with the performance of my 120hz non-LightBoost Samsung panel. If the performance is roughly on par with that, then it seems like a no-brainer, since I definitely want higher res, and higher res + LB means multiple 1080 panels... and I hate bezels. Anyway I would buy from ipsledmonitors.com so I can return it without issues if I need to.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WOD35*
> 
> I've read that the only models that have discernible input lag are the multi-input models which include the addition of a controller board. The DVI only models are direct and supposed to have very good response time I think 6ms


6.4ms to be exact but really .4 should not be distinguishable.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockHardMcNasty*
> 
> Thanks for the responses. I should have mentioned that, while the lightboost is nice, I am still happy with the performance of my 120hz non-LightBoost Samsung panel. If the performance is roughly on par with that, then it seems like a no-brainer, since I definitely want higher res, and higher res + LB means multiple 1080 panels... and I hate bezels. Anyway I would buy from ipsledmonitors.com so I can return it without issues if I need to.


I have a non-lightboost 120hz Samsung panel as well as the Qnix and i would say that the Qnix is slightly faster. The lack of input lag from a scaler helps a lot.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have a non-lightboost 120hz Samsung panel as well as the Qnix and i would say that the Qnix is slightly faster. The lack of input lag from a scaler helps a lot.


I can't seem to tell the difference between my A950 and QX2710 when rapidly dragging a window up and down that is half on each monitor. The input lag for me is negligible but others might notice it.


----------



## ronquilent

I can confirm that the QNIX has a higher native contrast ratio than my Shimians all post-calibration based on repeated colorimeter readings. The QNIX also has much less input lag than my Shimians from observation.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I been wondering about this too, mine will do the same if I turn it off from my power strip outlet that it's plug into, but it won't do that if I turn it off from the monitor and just leave the power strip on, never seen a monitor do this before.


Mine does the same thing..


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Mine does the same thing..


Oh ok, guess it's a normal thing then....


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> Oh ok, guess it's a normal thing then....


How is the new setup playing BF3?Sorry i passed out the other night when we were playing..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I been wondering about this too, mine will do the same if I turn it off from my power strip outlet that it's plug into, but it won't do that if I turn it off from the monitor and just leave the power strip on, never seen a monitor do this before.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine does the same thing..
Click to expand...

Mine does it as well. From what i've heard it is some kind of test it does when first sensing power


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> This is bizarre.
> 
> Here's some solutions I can think off of the top of my head:
> 
> Massage it out
> Flip windows upside down and see if same problem occurs
> Plug it into a DVD player and see if it reacts to different Colours when playing a movie.


Massaging does nothing and it's in the same spot even when windows is rotated upside down. It's definitely the monitor, the question is, does this mean bad news? Or is this just a harmless defect?

I noticed something else too, but this seems like it could be a common issue. When I overclock my monitor to 120hz, I see the background's brightness flickering on certain sites. The best examples I have are http://www.tomshardware.com/ and http://www.newegg.com/. Again it isn't all that noticeable, but when I look close enough I see these shadowy lines flickering on the background of these sites. If I reduce the overclock to 110hz, the flicker goes away. I understand the screen getting darker is common, but what about this? Haven't spotted it anywhere else besides in browser on certain websites. It's not scan lines, it's more like the screen is flickering in brightness at certain spots, causing these dark lines to appear and disappear. I don't think this is PWM.


----------



## txcLOL

Hey,

got my first QNIX yesterday and most of the setup works quite good. OC is possible to ~100 hz, 110-120 gave me some issues. I've not read all of the posts here on these 568 pages, so maybe an more experienced dude can help me with my question.

The Topic is the refresh rate in games. At the Desktop there are no problem, there are 100 Hz. If i play, for expample, Battlefield 3, there are also no problem (maybe because BF supports all refresh rates?!). But, if i play a game like Payday 2 oder CS:GO, i can see, that the refresh rate is 60. Is this, because the lack of native support of these games?

I tried overclock only with this in built-in Pixel Clock utility in Precision. I'm on the newest patched beta [email protected] my GTX 780.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> I can confirm that the QNIX has a higher native contrast ratio than my Shimians all post-calibration based on repeated colorimeter readings. The QNIX also has much less input lag than my Shimians from observation.


Mind providing some #'s? My Qnix's contrast is 1100:1 once calibrated vs. my CrossOver 2720MDP's 850:1


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *txcLOL*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> got my first QNIX yesterday and most of the setup works quite good. OC is possible to ~100 hz, 110-120 gave me some issues. I've not read all of the posts here on these 568 pages, so maybe an more experienced dude can help me with my question.
> 
> The Topic is the refresh rate in games. At the Desktop there are no problem, there are 100 Hz. If i play, for expample, Battlefield 3, there are also no problem (maybe because BF supports all refresh rates?!). But, if i play a game like Payday 2 oder CS:GO, i can see, that the refresh rate is 60. Is this, because the lack of native support of these games?
> 
> I tried overclock only with this in built-in Pixel Clock utility in Precision. I'm on the newest patched beta [email protected] my GTX 780.


Try searching for "forcing refresh rate" not only in this thread but many games have sites that relate to forcing the highest available refresh. Also if you do get to 120hz and put it as a native resolution the nvidia control panel has a "preferred refresh rate" option that appears after a driver update. This will force games that do not have a refresh rate option to use the 120hz refresh. You can find my detailed post regarding this by again searching for "force refresh rate"

Another option that has help many people is installing the catleap monitor driver or another related 120hz driver(you can easily make them with a EDID creator). You can find this by searching "catleap driver" in this thread.

Yet another option or possibility rather is checking you in game versus driver level vsync since these can not only conflict but can have issues with an OC refresh. You can find info on this by searching "vsync" in this thread.

Hopefully this gets you in the right direction and you don't mind doing some searching because all of your questions have been gone over several times and the information already posted is very detailed and helpful. Also by searching through this thread looking at my posts along with some otehr members that have been around since the beginning will be beneficial to your endeavor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Massaging does nothing and it's in the same spot even when windows is rotated upside down. It's definitely the monitor, the question is, does this mean bad news? Or is this just a harmless defect?
> 
> I noticed something else too, but this seems like it could be a common issue. When I overclock my monitor to 120hz, I see the background's brightness flickering on certain sites. The best examples I have are http://www.tomshardware.com/ and http://www.newegg.com/. Again it isn't all that noticeable, but when I look close enough I see these shadowy lines flickering on the background of these sites. If I reduce the overclock to 110hz, the flicker goes away. I understand the screen getting darker is common, but what about this? Haven't spotted it anywhere else besides in browser on certain websites. It's not scan lines, it's more like the screen is flickering in brightness at certain spots, causing these dark lines to appear and disappear. I don't think this is PWM.


I have replied to your other thread you started but i am also moving it here because this is the main Qnix thread and is where this inquiry should be. I recommend looking back a few pages at the timings posts that have been going on. they will help you with the flickering. Again the weird pixel is likely not a big deal i have seen plenty of mus-behaving pixels before that never were an overall indication of failure. I think you are being a bit paranoid(no offense) due to the couple panels you went through to get a good one.

""""""""""
The flickering is a form of instability due to the excessively high pixel clock over the DVI cable. This can be fixed in two ways:
1. have a better cable
2. try manually getting the best timings and not just changing the refresh rate(which is like like just overclocking a CPU with the multiplier it works but it is definitely not even close to the best way to do it)

The "weird" pixel is not something i would worry too much about. If it was only doing it when overclocked or if it was spreading(meaning you found more over a short time) sure you might be worried. I have seen single pixels on a screen do a lot of things, more often then not it stays just on that pixel but i have never seen what you are describing though i would never likely done so much testing over a single pixel. Overall i think you are reading to much into this. Getting to 135hz without any real trial and error is a fantastic panel. We have been making some good progress in information relating to custom timings and stability over in the Qnix club that would very likely help you out on this and i recommend doing a little reading about the flickering or "scanning" you are seeing and you will likely find a way to adjust to not have to deal with it any longer like i did.
""""""""""


----------



## txcLOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Hopefully this gets you in the right direction


It does, thanks a lot


----------



## DiceAir

Can someone please tell me what the AWG is on the stock cable you get with the Qnix monitors?


----------



## ColdFlo

Finally getting around to applying heatsinks been very busy. My remaining sinks were either not enough area at the base to cover the Wise View(Wise Semiconductor? Couldnt get datasheet but Ive been trying to get this all sinked up tonight so not totally exhaustive search) LRU4122MOL-Q Chips on the Inverter Board. Used Artic Alumina Epoxy on the corners with a swath of Phobya HeGrease down the middle. Both non-conductive non capacitive got alumina on the chip leads fingers crossed on fireup no pop good to go. There's room for fans in there but wiring the power would be a pain unless you had a little power brick or decide to power your entire monitor off a pc powersupply which would be dangerous if it fell off your desk. Put a sink on the chip right after the traces the DVI connector connects to got these numbers but couldn't make out the illegible logo other than its a 45 degree angle globle with latitude and longitude lines drawn on it(some kind of text in the globe looked like numbers completely impossible to makeout with longitude and latitude lines drawn over them I have a canon t4i in the box from christmas but I have yet to pull it out and play with it so I couldn't use it for this and I still dont have time for pic guides right now) (EP269 1229G M35562). Hard to find info on these asian chips very little documentation, poor company websites, and searches bring up little but sales clerks wanting to sell you a mass order. Maybe someone could get the datasheets through them....... Seems these are the 3 chips we are looking for tho maybe some of the others get hot but didnt have a chance to finger test with the monitor on to see whats hot because I couldn't find a configuration with the monitor apart where the wires between the board and panel were connected while panel on and I could touch the board without removing tape and completely adjusting the wiring(and threatening shorts on the board and metal chasis).

Im really liking this panel but the tearing really bugs me more than anything else that and I really like Sony Trinitron coloration(light bright sky blues and orangy reds vs purplish blues and maroon reds). I think the key to advancement of LCD panels lies not in further advancement of LCD technology but the 3 translucent color filters that make up the panel that the LCDs regulate light to. LG uses a color closer to old Sony Trinitron but its too bright causing a lack of contrast and black level making it look cheesy Vizio is even worse and the Sony I had to compare with wasnt knocking my socks off either so In the LCD world maybe these colors are tailored for good LCD reproduction. I've also noticed the more continuous light(I cant see any flicker) of the LCD is more natural and easier on the perception. Its hard to realize that at first coming from CRT but looking back at CRT it does look flickerish now. Tho CRT blacklevel is stellar. Digital artifacts do blow as analog artifacts you dont even see them. Ghosting tho is not a problem for me except maybe on driving games where the car adjusts very small amounts at a time centered in the screen. Then maybe it will bother you. In a FPS I really don't even realize it or notice it. I also think the flicker of Lightboost would be even worse. I think the move to LCD is about size. Size on its own even with huge ugly LCD TV bigscreen pixels can bring more perceivable resolution to an image that a smaller screen just can't show you. You will see details you couldn't' see before; Size by itself everything else being equal IS a resolution enhancement. It is innately built into our perception whether you want to argue its scientific or not.

I think the best solution for the Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q Chips is to buy some copper shims off ebay and then cut that static plastic film on the underside of the panel backer/ board protector plate and bond the copper shims to that backer plate chasis and use it as your heatsink. You could cut that backer off over the chips and put some short aluminum sinks on there too but make sure they are short because you don't have much room to play with and that space is inbetween the tension holding the panel together so anything too tall in there will probably crack that little inverter board.

Also those of you suggesting using a rolling pin to roll out the backer plate to fix out blacklight bleed or the other guy saying hed hit it with a mallet or hammer to straighten it out. *** are you talking about? Did you really do that? I think opening up the inside of the panel assembly(the part that comes from Samsung not QNIX) is asking for dust inside there(when opening and separating the panel use the enclosed bubble and plastic wrap works great to keep dust out and keep everything clean, get some gloves dont touch anything with your fingers). Maybe you could roll the whole panel along the backside with a rolling pin very carefully. I would love to see a before and after of that proving that it does indeed work. Out of all the good tweaks I've read about on this thread. Those to me now seem the most dubious.


----------



## DiceAir

Now I was thinking. If they can just release such a monitor with displayport you will get over the bandwidth limit on a DVI dual link cable. Displayport is 17.28 Gbit/s


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Now I was thinking. If they can just release such a monitor with displayport you will get over the bandwidth limit on a DVI dual link cable. Displayport is 17.28 Gbit/s


I say once 4k is out we organise a lot of OCNers t o contact the sellers so they contact the manufacturers asking for monitors with what we want - i.e. no scaler, DP, a PCB natively capable of running at least 120Hz (something about lanes).

I think they did something like that over on 120Hz.net - but we'd need quite a lot of people to commit to buying beforehand.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I say once 4k is out we organise a lot of OCNers t o contact the sellers so they contact the manufacturers asking for monitors with what we want - i.e. no scaler, DP, a PCB natively capable of running at least 120Hz (something about lanes).
> 
> I think they did something like that over on 120Hz.net - but we'd need quite a lot of people to commit to buying beforehand.


Imagine that. That would be mindblowing but the bandwidth on DP won't be enough. I would say first we need better DP then we can think of doing this. I think they said next DP cable will go about +-21 gbit/s


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Now I was thinking. If they can just release such a monitor with displayport you will get over the bandwidth limit on a DVI dual link cable. Displayport is 17.28 Gbit/s


There's actually no documented bandwidth limit for dual link DVI. It's limited by the cable quality and DVI signal strength. I'm guessing it's preferable because it's older and less complex than DP (read: cheaper).


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> There's actually no documented bandwidth limit for dual link DVI. It's limited by the cable quality and DVI signal strength. I'm guessing it's preferable because it's older and less complex than DP (read: cheaper).


Many DVI-D cables start to have a good deal of problems after 400mhz. Generally speaking a good thick cable can do almost 500mhz before capping out but will have some stability side effects. This makes us using a good cable and keeping it down to about 450mhz very doable. This is no documented limit but there a pretty good and well testing "rue of thumb" per say. Toastyx went over this and i believe overlord forums had a very good post regarding their limits i will have to find them and post a link.

EDIT: Here it is

http://overlordforum.com/topic/44-2560x1440-120hz-possible-over-dvi-d/


----------



## coelacanth

I need some help with CRU.

My current setup = MSi GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes in SLI with the 320.xx Nvidia driver.

Here's what I did:

1) Downloaded ToastyX's patcher and ran the full patch (since I'm running SLI)
2) Rebooted
3) Downloaded CRU
4) Opened CRU and clicked on the resolution in the detailed resolution section, hit Edit, hit Copy, backed out to the main screen, hit Add, in Manual I pasted the specs from my stock detailed resolution, then changed Hz to 96
5) I moved my new resolution with 96Hz to the top of the detailed resolution list in CRU
6) Unchecked "Include extension block" and hit OK
7) Rebooted
8) Went to Nvidia control panel to the resolution section. There was a custom resolution there, but it only listed 60Hz 32-bit color. There was nothing in the custom resolution list about 96Hz. So I looked at PC resolutions right below and clicked on 2560 x 1550 (native). My "native" resolution had changed to 2 choices: 60Hz and 16-bit color, or 96Hz with 32-bit color. I no longer have 60Hz with 32-bit color as an option under native resolution.

I ran the reset tool in CRU and rebooted and went back to Nvidia control panel and my "native" resolution under PC was back to 60Hz with 32-bit color. There was also a custom resolution there, 60Hz with 32-bit color.

So my questions are: Why are the custom resolutions from CRU not showing up in the "Custom" section of Nvidia control panel resolution? Are the custom resolutions supposed to show up under "native" resolution under PC resolutions? If so, why am I now missing 60Hz and 32-bit color (since I still have the profile in CRU)?

Thanks.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Many DVI-D cables start to have a good deal of problems after 400mhz. Generally speaking a good thick cable can do almost 500mhz before capping out but will have some stability side effects. This makes us using a good cable and keeping it down to about 450mhz very doable. This is no documented limit but there a pretty good and well testing "rue of thumb" per say. Toastyx went over this and i believe overlord forums had a very good post regarding their limits i will have to find them and post a link.
> 
> EDIT: Here it is
> 
> http://overlordforum.com/topic/44-2560x1440-120hz-possible-over-dvi-d/


Thanks for that, very interesting!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I need some help with CRU.
> 
> My current setup = MSi GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes in SLI with the 320.xx Nvidia driver.
> 
> Here's what I did:
> 
> 1) Downloaded ToastyX's patcher and ran the full patch (since I'm running SLI)
> 2) Rebooted
> 3) Downloaded CRU
> 4) Opened CRU and clicked on the resolution in the detailed resolution section, hit Edit, hit Copy, backed out to the main screen, hit Add, in Manual I pasted the specs from my stock detailed resolution, then changed Hz to 96
> 5) I moved my new resolution with 96Hz to the top of the detailed resolution list in CRU
> 6) Unchecked "Include extension block" and hit OK
> 7) Rebooted
> 8) Went to Nvidia control panel to the resolution section. There was a custom resolution there, but it only listed 60Hz 32-bit color. There was nothing in the custom resolution list about 96Hz. So I looked at PC resolutions right below and clicked on 2560 x 1550 (native). My "native" resolution had changed to 2 choices: 60Hz and 16-bit color, or 96Hz with 32-bit color. I no longer have 60Hz with 32-bit color as an option under native resolution.
> 
> I ran the reset tool in CRU and rebooted and went back to Nvidia control panel and my "native" resolution under PC was back to 60Hz with 32-bit color. There was also a custom resolution there, 60Hz with 32-bit color.
> 
> So my questions are: Why are the custom resolutions from CRU not showing up in the "Custom" section of Nvidia control panel resolution? Are the custom resolutions supposed to show up under "native" resolution under PC resolutions? If so, why am I now missing 60Hz and 32-bit color (since I still have the profile in CRU)?
> 
> Thanks.


CRU created resolutions are different from nVidia custom resolutions; they're native to the system. You should fully avoid the nVidia custom resolution section when using CRU. I'm not sure why you're losing 32-bit at 60hz as this does not happen to me with the 320.49 drivers. Regardless, if you're planning on running a higher refresh rate and that one works with 32-bit it shouldn't really matter.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Thanks for that, very interesting!
> CRU created resolutions are different from nVidia custom resolutions; they're native to the system. You should fully avoid the nVidia custom resolution section when using CRU. I'm not sure why you're losing 32-bit at 60hz as this does not happen to me with the 320.49 drivers. Regardless, if you're planning on running a higher refresh rate and that one works with 32-bit it shouldn't really matter.


Thanks for the reply. That clears up one mystery -- the CRU custom resolutions show up under PC "native" resolution. Cool.









The remaining mystery is that I have no idea why after running CRU I lose 60Hz 32-bit color as a "native" option.

I guess I'll reinstall the 320.xx drivers, repatch, and retry with CRU.

The reason I want to see both resolutions as "native" is because when I'm not gaming I switch back to 96Hz. I have 2 monitors connected and if I run the Qnix at 96 Hz all the time neither video card downclocks. If I run Qnix at 60Hz then one of my video cards downclocks like normal.

With respect to CRU, it took me a while to figure out what to do in terms of editing, copying, adding, pasting in manual etc. The OP instructions are kind of vague. I learned how to use CRU from reading the thread rather than the OP.

EDIT:

I figured out why I was losing native 60Hz 32-bit color in Nvidia control panel. I was using Precision X to set the pixel clock to "default" and after applying that the Nvidia control panel gets all messed up and keeps thinking that 60Hz 32-bit color is a custom profile rather than a native profile.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Try searching for "forcing refresh rate" not only in this thread but many games have sites that relate to forcing the highest available refresh. Also if you do get to 120hz and put it as a native resolution the nvidia control panel has a "preferred refresh rate" option that appears after a driver update. This will force games that do not have a refresh rate option to use the 120hz refresh. You can find my detailed post regarding this by again searching for "force refresh rate"
> 
> Another option that has help many people is installing the catleap monitor driver or another related 120hz driver(you can easily make them with a EDID creator). You can find this by searching "catleap driver" in this thread.
> 
> Yet another option or possibility rather is checking you in game versus driver level vsync since these can not only conflict but can have issues with an OC refresh. You can find info on this by searching "vsync" in this thread.
> 
> Hopefully this gets you in the right direction and you don't mind doing some searching because all of your questions have been gone over several times and the information already posted is very detailed and helpful. Also by searching through this thread looking at my posts along with some otehr members that have been around since the beginning will be beneficial to your endeavor.
> I have replied to your other thread you started but i am also moving it here because this is the main Qnix thread and is where this inquiry should be. I recommend looking back a few pages at the timings posts that have been going on. they will help you with the flickering. Again the weird pixel is likely not a big deal i have seen plenty of mus-behaving pixels before that never were an overall indication of failure. I think you are being a bit paranoid(no offense) due to the couple panels you went through to get a good one.
> 
> """"""""""
> The flickering is a form of instability due to the excessively high pixel clock over the DVI cable. This can be fixed in two ways:
> 1. have a better cable
> 2. try manually getting the best timings and not just changing the refresh rate(which is like like just overclocking a CPU with the multiplier it works but it is definitely not even close to the best way to do it)
> 
> The "weird" pixel is not something i would worry too much about. If it was only doing it when overclocked or if it was spreading(meaning you found more over a short time) sure you might be worried. I have seen single pixels on a screen do a lot of things, more often then not it stays just on that pixel but i have never seen what you are describing though i would never likely done so much testing over a single pixel. Overall i think you are reading to much into this. Getting to 135hz without any real trial and error is a fantastic panel. We have been making some good progress in information relating to custom timings and stability over in the Qnix club that would very likely help you out on this and i recommend doing a little reading about the flickering or "scanning" you are seeing and you will likely find a way to adjust to not have to deal with it any longer like i did.
> """"""""""


Thanks, I appreciate it. Also, is the 59.950hz the same profile as the stock 60hz one? I was looking at the guide, but I don't see a stock 60hz profile in the CRU. If I change my resolution in Windows, both 59hz and 60hz are there though.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. That clears up one mystery -- the CRU custom resolutions show up under PC "native" resolution. Cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The remaining mystery is that I have no idea why after running CRU I lose 60Hz 32-bit color as a "native" option.
> 
> I guess I'll reinstall the 320.xx drivers, repatch, and retry with CRU.
> 
> The reason I want to see both resolutions as "native" is because when I'm not gaming I switch back to 96Hz. I have 2 monitors connected and if I run the Qnix at 96 Hz all the time neither video card downclocks. If I run Qnix at 60Hz then one of my video cards downclocks like normal.
> 
> With respect to CRU, it took me a while to figure out what to do in terms of editing, copying, adding, pasting in manual etc. The OP instructions are kind of vague. I learned how to use CRU from reading the thread rather than the OP.


I totally agree. I found way more direct info from the thread as well and recommend it over the manual.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Thanks, I appreciate it. Also, is the 59.950hz the same profile as the stock 60hz one? I was looking at the guide, but I don't see a stock 60hz profile in the CRU. If I change my resolution in Windows, both 59hz and 60hz are there though.


This is no big deal it is merely seeing a refresh in between two common modes and displaying both as a result. You can fix this by removing the 59.95hz one and adding just a 60hz one. Sometimes it does take a video driver re-install for it to figure it out(in my experience).


----------



## ronquilent

Wait, are there actual timings we can use to *eliminate* darkening/dimming of the display at increased refresh rates? That would be excellent if possible.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Wait, are there actual timings we can use to *eliminate* darkening/dimming of the display at increased refresh rates? That would be excellent if possible.


There are several good timings posts back just a few pages back. You can also find my post where i break down how to find the best timings per your monitor by searching "front porch" in this thread. And yes it does make several of the side effects of overclocking either completely disappear or at least be a lot lighter.

EDIT: Also the CRU forum thread by toastyX has a lot of good info regarding timings and what not.
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## AznCQ

I appreciate Spartan posting and replying to everyone about issues whether its old or new. Because lets be honest here, for a new owner of this monitor, sifting through 570+ pages is ridiculous and the search engine for threads is not ideal. The information is too scattered, people also won't go through other monitor's thread for information about custom timings when we are only looking for things relevant to our Qnixs', it doesn't make sense.

So imo its good that Spartan is bringing up this information again so new people can still see it and be aware of things like custom timings, uniformity, color profile variance. If he hadn't replied to me about that stuff and linked me to a bunch of threads, I would have had no idea.

There's a lot of information that isn't in the OP like custom timings, examples of timings that work well, and monitor driver. Also there is confusing wording as well, someone should run through the OP and fix it up and add in new information relevant to us.

Also the information I did find in other threads are worded so poorly. No one in those threads mentions that the goal is to push the pixel clock as low as possible, so I had no idea what the purpose of this was, except until Spartan by chance replied in this thread like 5 pages back when I was trying to look for the answer.

In any case, I'm glad the custom timings I posted has worked for most, I found that the vertical pixels need to be raised by 1 or 2, because I found the bottom of the screen was missing a few pixels (barely noticeable) bringing the total pixel clock to around 460.8. This makes it absolutely perfect, color variance so far is ACE!!! So to sum up, I was able to reduce pixel clock from 483 to 460 which has fixed the color profile variance completely. Amazing!


----------



## ronquilent

Although timings are dependent on multiple factors, I still believe that there are a range of timings that can be applied with confidence using just the stock cable and recent GPUs to give a predictable overclock. I know this is counter-intuitive to how CPU overclocking is done but "overclocking" a monitor is nowhere near as sensitive as overclocking a CPU. Therefore, I suggest we start a trend of posting timings that work for us at 120Hz and provide a basis for which other users to work from or use directly. I think posting our timings is the first step to getting other users more comfortable to experiment rather than making it seem like navigating in the middle of the ocean without a compass.









Thanks a bunch Spartan F8 for replying thouroughly and with links to what seems like an endless stream of repeated questions about timings.








Also, many thanks to AznCQ for motivating me to start tweaking around by posting his timings!










These timings for work me without any artifacts/lines at 120Hz. The display still darkens when overclocking to 120Hz with respect to 60Hz though. I'm still trying to tighten the timings even more though, so I'll update the screenshot if that happens.


----------



## sniggleface

nVidia 326.58 beta drivers are out and seemingly working fine with these monitors. I have just installed them, patched them, and my original custom resolution was restored with no problem.

Download for Windows XP (32-bit)
Download for Windows XP (64-bit)
Download for Windows 7/8 and Vista (32-bit) WDDM 1.3
Download for Windows 7/8 and Vista (64-bit) WDDM 1.3


----------



## TinyMud

To Update my Damaged in Shipment QX2710 MATTE report:

After filing a Damage Shipment report to DHL, I`m waiting a call from a Damage Inspector to arrange an inspection at my residence.

As per Green-Sum`s request I E-Mail him several PIC`s of the Damage - Here`s one of them:


----------



## TinyMud

I don't suppose one of you sent one back to Green-Sum in this condition - LOL


----------



## Spartan F8

Tinymud it pains me to see that picture


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinyMud*
> 
> To Update my Damaged in Shipment QX2710 MATTE report:
> 
> After filing a Damage Shipment report to DHL, I`m waiting a call from a Damage Inspector to arrange an inspection at my residence.
> 
> As per Green-Sum`s request I E-Mail him several PIC`s of the Damage - Here`s one of them:


A fellow monitor died in transit







You shouldn't have to pay return shipping to green-sum on that one right?


----------



## TinyMud

I didn't bother to plug it in as I would imagine that there would be too much Bleed Through and Dead Pixels ;o)

I have a feeling some one in CDN Customs has a grudge against Korean Imports.


----------



## TinyMud

As you can see I'm rather Dyslexic and have a habit of missing words when I type - How do you edit posts in this forum?


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There are several good timings posts back just a few pages back. You can also find my post where i break down how to find the best timings per your monitor by searching "front porch" in this thread. And yes it does make several of the side effects of overclocking either completely disappear or at least be a lot lighter.
> 
> EDIT: Also the CRU forum thread by toastyX has a lot of good info regarding timings and what not.
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


Thanks Spartan. I tried following your timings. However this the lowest I can go. If I try decreasing back porch/blanking/total even by 1, the number turns red and I can't save the resolution:


It looks the same to me. Screen is just as dark, and that flickering problem isn't better or worse. Did I do something wrong? I'm very new to all of this.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinyMud*
> 
> As you can see I'm rather Dyslexic and have a habit of missing words when I type - How do edit posts in this forum?


Click the little pencil button in the lower left of your post.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinyMud*
> 
> To Update my Damaged in Shipment QX2710 MATTE report:
> 
> After filing a Damage Shipment report to DHL, I`m waiting a call from a Damage Inspector to arrange an inspection at my residence.
> 
> As per Green-Sum`s request I E-Mail him several PIC`s of the Damage - Here`s one of them:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ouch! Sorry to see that. Out of curiosity, what condition was the box? Wondering if it happened at a manufacturing level or during shipment?


----------



## TinyMud

My posts are edited and corrected - Thanks sniggleface ;o)

There is plainly evidence of an external protrusion into the Shipping Box during shipment; however, I did not notice it upon delivery as the box was wrapped with Bubble Wrap and there is evidence of Black Soot on the surface of the Bubble Wrap..



For your info: I purchased it for $269 USD costing $282 CDN and have a $32.02 CDN Customs charge to pay.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinyMud*
> 
> My posts are edited and corrected - Thanks sniggleface ;o)
> 
> There is plainly evidence of an external protrusion into the Shipping Box during shipment; however, I did not notice it upon delivery as the box was wrapped with Bubble Wrap.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yup, you can clearly see that it was the shipping that damaged that. Bummer you have to go through that with your brand new monitor. We feel for you.


----------



## TheSilentCircus

Wow, I hope things work out for your benefit TinyMud.

I just found out about these monitors after looking at Catleaps for soo long...I pulled the trigger last night from Green-Sum. For $269.90 I had a very hard time not ordering two haha.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> How is the new setup playing BF3?Sorry i passed out the other night when we were playing..


It's awesome man!! It's ok lol we'll play again!


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinyMud*
> 
> My posts are edited and corrected - Thanks sniggleface ;o)
> 
> There is plainly evidence of an external protrusion into the Shipping Box during shipment; however, I did not notice it upon delivery as the box was wrapped with Bubble Wrap and there is evidence of Black Soot on the surface of the Bubble Wrap..
> 
> 
> 
> For your info: I purchased it for $269 USD costing $282 CDN and have a $32.02 CDN Customs charge to pay.


The shipping may be fast but I don't know what's going on during the shipping.

My Qnix from green-sum came wrapped in plastic film. Inside the box it was wet, the cardboard holding the power brick etc. was kind of mushy from being damp, and there was condensed water inside of the plastic bags holding various things. I let everything dry out a bit before plugging everything in...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> It looks the same to me. Screen is just as dark, and that flickering problem isn't better or worse. Did I do something wrong? I'm very new to all of this.


I don't see that you did anything wrong, it may be the screen need a bit more color calibration to accommodate for the overclock. The brightness is not going to be solved by timings. Timings are going to lighten the variance you might see. Calibration will be need to correct the gamma levels and contrast which in tern handle a good amount of the brightness or "pop" look. The flickering is going to be the polarity(positive and negative options in CRU) if you have a secondary monitor or is likely a hardware issue(Gfx card, cable, or the monitor itself if it is still doing it at 60hz).


----------



## TinyMud

The damage kinda looks like a Locking Latch struck it from a Delivery Door Cube Van, in which case, the subsidiary Delivery Co. of DHL (Purolator CDA) would probably be responsible and it probably happened right at my front door.



What got me about the delivery is that the Girl delivering it (I did not see the delivery van as I live in a 2nd story apt) did not request that I sign for it. I actually called DHL, some 20 minutes after receiving it, and reported the damage before they had logged the delivery completion in their OnLine Tracking Report.

In fact DHL has not completed an Online delivery Tracing Time and Date and it's been 3 days.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinyMud*
> 
> The damage kinda looks like a Locking Latch struck it from a Delivery Door Cube Van, in which case, the subsidiary Delivery Co. of DHL (Purolator CDA) would probably be responsible and it probably happened right at my front door.
> 
> 
> 
> What got me about the delivery is that the Girl delivering it (I did not see the delivery van as I live in a 2nd story apt) did not request that I sign for it. I actually called DHL, some 20 minutes after receiving it, and reported the damage before they had logged the delivery completion in their OnLine Tracking Report.


Geez that is horrible, hope everything works out ok and i'm sure you'll get a free replacement.


----------



## theilya

I'm going to be buying the "Qnix QX2710 Evolution II " on craiglist.
The seller is going to let me inspect the monitor while its hooked up to his computer.

What should I look for?
what is the best way to check for lightbleed?

thanks


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. That clears up one mystery -- the CRU custom resolutions show up under PC "native" resolution. Cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The remaining mystery is that I have no idea why after running CRU I lose 60Hz 32-bit color as a "native" option.
> 
> I guess I'll reinstall the 320.xx drivers, repatch, and retry with CRU.
> 
> The reason I want to see both resolutions as "native" is because when I'm not gaming I switch back to 96Hz. I have 2 monitors connected and if I run the Qnix at 96 Hz all the time neither video card downclocks. If I run Qnix at 60Hz then one of my video cards downclocks like normal.
> 
> With respect to CRU, it took me a while to figure out what to do in terms of editing, copying, adding, pasting in manual etc. The OP instructions are kind of vague. I learned how to use CRU from reading the thread rather than the OP.


I did a fresh (clean) install of the 320.18 Nvidia drivers. I rebooted. Ran ToastyX's full patcher. Rebooted. Ran CRU and created a custom resolution for 96Hz and rebooted.

Nvidia control panel is now working, I have 2 native resolutions, one for 60Hz and one for 96Hz. But when I start up Borderlands 2, it is not running at 96Hz, it's still at 60. When I overclock my Qnix with Precision X, the game will play at 96Hz.

Even though Precision X is saying the monitor is running at 96Hz, it's not applying to games now. Anyone have a fix?

I would rather overclock with ToastyX's patcher + CRU (I can reach 96Hz with a lower pixel clock than EVGA Precision X), but I'm having a lot of problems with that method vs. just using Precision X.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> I'm going to be buying the "Qnix QX2710 Evolution II " on craiglist.
> The seller is going to let me inspect the monitor while its hooked up to his computer.
> 
> What should I look for?
> what is the best way to check for lightbleed?
> 
> thanks


If you're going during the day, bring a thick black sheet with you and drape it over yourself and the monitor and load a black image. If you want to mess with the guy, start poking the sheet rapidly while making strange noises.

If you're interested in overclocking it, it's going to be a bit more of an ordeal if he isn't already doing it. Read up on the original post to find instructions and ask the guy if it's okay to try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Even though Precision X is saying the monitor is running at 96Hz, it's not applying to games now. Anyone have a fix?


Try ordering the resolutions in CRU so 96hz is first. You can also fully remove 60hz so that games don't even detect it as a valid refresh rate.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> I'm going to be buying the "Qnix QX2710 Evolution II " on craiglist.
> The seller is going to let me inspect the monitor while its hooked up to his computer.
> 
> What should I look for?
> what is the best way to check for lightbleed?
> 
> thanks


One way you can test it. Bring a movie that has black borders. Turn down all the lights in the room if you can. Play it. Look at the black borders and see if you can see any back light bleeding through when it's in actual use.

To see where to look for back light bleed when the movie is playing, first open up MS Paint and hit F11. Brightness should be where you like to keep it at home. It will show you where to look when the movie is playing for any bleeding that would ruin your experience when you do.

This will hold true if you're playing games that have black borders or if the colors are being crushed from the bleeding through.

For dead pixels open MS Paint and with white back ground hit F11 and get up close on it to look for black dots or trapped dust. If you spot any you'll know where to look. Open up your favorite web site (OCN) and see if the dead pixels will bother you when your actually using it to surf or read documents.

The question would be if you do find faults, is to ask yourself if you can live with the defects and if its worth it based on the price you paid.


----------



## theilya

thanks for the information guys


----------



## theilya

Would $200 be a good price for it?
its two months old and supposedly no dead/stuck pixel and no lightbleed. I dont know if its overclocks tho


----------



## phillyd

Thats like $90 below retail.


----------



## Gloomfrost

You have an amazingly good situation IMO.

First of all, use this website: http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html

You can use the black and white backgrounds to check for back light bleed and dead pixels respectively.

Second, these monitors are all a lottery, if you can actually INSPECT it YOURSELF before buying, you might actually get one of the GOOD monitors for a CHEAPER price than some who have paid more and got a worse one. You also save yourself the risk of receiving a monitor that was damaged during shipping, or getting a faulty power supply or cable... You DO lose out on the '1 year warranty' thing but my crossover 27Q started failing after 11 months and I haven't heard anything back from 'the manufacturer' through my seller even though he kept telling me he'd find out, so I wouldn't really value those anyway.

One word of caution is I suggest you make sure you're using it for at least 5-15minutes just in case you start to see flickering or pulsing of the backlight or some other weird issues that others have reported (not just on this Qnix but the other monitors as well).


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I don't see that you did anything wrong, it may be the screen need a bit more color calibration to accommodate for the overclock. The brightness is not going to be solved by timings. Timings are going to lighten the variance you might see. Calibration will be need to correct the gamma levels and contrast which in tern handle a good amount of the brightness or "pop" look. The flickering is going to be the polarity(positive and negative options in CRU) if you have a secondary monitor or is likely a hardware issue(Gfx card, cable, or the monitor itself if it is still doing it at 60hz).


The flickering is only noticeable at 120hz and above. It just isn't there at 110hz. So is there anyway to fix it now that I've reduced my timings to the lowest I can go?

Speaking of which, how were you able to enter your settings in the CRU without it coming up red? I'm not talking about how does yours work at those timings, but how did the CRU allow you to use them?

Also, it's better to have a lower pixel clock right? I thought it did more than just handle color. Starting to get the hang of it but there's nothing more I can do since I have the lowest pixel clock CRU lets me use.


----------



## AznCQ

Wow, I just found out that full screen games completely ignore the .icc profile that you set. Meaning when you're playing full screen games your colors will be way off and you'll see the gamma shift.

This also explains why my profile wasn't sticking properly.

Anyone know any solution to this?









I'm sticking to full screen windowed mode for now which works fine.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> The flickering is only noticeable at 120hz and above. It just isn't there at 110hz. So is there anyway to fix it now that I've reduced my timings to the lowest I can go?
> 
> Speaking of which, how were you able to enter your settings in the CRU without it coming up red? I'm not talking about how does yours work at those timings, but how did the CRU allow you to use them?
> 
> Also, it's better to have a lower pixel clock right? I thought it did more than just handle color. Starting to get the hang of it but there's nothing more I can do since I have the lowest pixel clock CRU lets me use.


1. If you have it at the lowest possible timings then it still could be the polarity(which i have not seen you mention as of yet) Also if you have a second monitor connected try removing it for a while and maybe even reboot to see if it still flickering. You ay also want to make sure your drivers are patched with toastyx's patch(if they are patched it will tell you and not allow you to run the patch again). other than that i would try a few other cables and see if you can get it to stop flickering.

2. I have no idea mine did not show red and it did allow me to use them

3. Yes it is better to have a low pixel clock(this is comparable to having the highest front side bus when OC a CPU "sort of")

4. It does not directly handle color at all but by having a lowest stressed pixel clock or data rate going through the cable you reduce ALL side effects including color(so technically your statement is correct but maybe not the thought process IDK)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Wow, I just found out that full screen games completely ignore the .icc profile that you set. Meaning when you're playing full screen games your colors will be way off and you'll see the gamma shift.
> 
> This also explains why my profile wasn't sticking properly.
> 
> Anyone know any solution to this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sticking to full screen windowed mode for now which works fine.


Yes use the drivers to set the color up yourself with this website http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
You can also search "calibration" in this thread. There has been a lot of talk about this and i have some detailed posts regarding it further back a bit shouldn't be too hard to find.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Wow, I just found out that full screen games completely ignore the .icc profile that you set. Meaning when you're playing full screen games your colors will be way off and you'll see the gamma shift.
> 
> This also explains why my profile wasn't sticking properly.
> 
> Anyone know any solution to this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sticking to full screen windowed mode for now which works fine.


Use CPKeeper for that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> Yes use the drivers to set the color up yourself with this website http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
> You can also search "calibration" in this thread. There has been a lot of talk about this and i have some detailed posts regarding it further back a bit shouldn't be too hard to find.


He might be using an ICC profile he made himself using a colorimeter / spectrophotometer or using another user's ICC profile, in which case manual calibration is not enough, nor is calibration by eye (inaccurate).

*@ColdFlo:* Here's the datasheet for the EP269. You have a Qnix or an X-Star btw?


----------



## fifty

i received my qnix as well, really minor to no blb , no dp, but when i went ingame with 120hz i had a blinking green orizontal line randomly appearing on the screem..used AznCQ settings and now 120hz flawless, no side effects after gaming. what can i say, i have a s27950d as well, but im impressed by this panel, the color blow away the samsung and the rest , well, 1440p vs 1080p, 120hz....only downside thing is the aestetic side but , well...at least the stand is not as wide as the s27..
for 230 euro, grab one if you can. bought from green sum.


----------



## Doofus McGwire

Ordered two 760s last night (upgrading from 6950 CF) at a cost of $550 with a Splinter Cell: Blacklist code thrown in.
With all the great looking AAAs coming out over the next 6-9 months, I wanted a nice sexy 1440 monitor to boot, but the cheapest model I found was $559 (ASUS on Amazon)...until this thread.

After blowing off a conference call and reading damn near 100 pages, this morning (Thurs) I ordered the QNIX 27" via Amazon reseller EcoMadeArena for $309 and free shipping. Should be here some time (Tues-Thurs). For non-gaming stuff, I'll have two 1080p flanking the QNIX...all three mounted on an Ergomonitor stand.

Can't wait to sneak up and stab fools in SC:B at 1440p!
Thank you everyone for all the great info!

I'll follow-up after delivery.

Dear God...it's already shipping.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doofus McGwire*
> 
> Ordered two 760s last night (upgrading from 6950 CF) at a cost of $550 with a Splinter Cell: Blacklist code thrown in.
> With all the great looking AAAs coming out over the next 6-9 months, I wanted a nice sexy 1440 monitor to boot, but the cheapest model I found was $559 (ASUS on Amazon)...until this thread.
> 
> After blowing off a conference call and reading damn near 100 pages, this morning (Thurs) I ordered the QNIX 27" via Amazon reseller EcoMadeArena for $309 and free shipping. Should be here some time (Tues-Thurs). For non-gaming stuff, I'll have two 1080p flanking the QNIX...all three mounted on an Ergomonitor stand.
> 
> Can't wait to sneak up and stab fools in SC:B at 1440p!
> Thank you everyone for all the great info!
> 
> I'll follow-up after delivery.
> 
> Dear God...it's already shipping.


That's great man! Hope you enjoy your Qnix and those GTX 760's! I love my Qnix great quality panel, beautiful colors and such sharp clarity for the price can't beat it!









That's a funny ass avatar lol


----------



## DiceAir

I'm actually loving the New Nvidia drivers 326.51. My gtx570 can run bf3. I turn down most setting to low and some to high then i can play at 50-60FPS


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I'm actually loving the New Nvidia drivers 326.51. My gtx570 can run bf3. I turn down most setting to low and some to high then i can play at 50-60FPS


I'm gonna install these drivers today, I heard they are working good with these Korean monitors.


----------



## derek427r

I finally decided to pull the trigger on the QNIX at $269. Hopefully I'll get it in a few days!


----------



## MEW2K

Am I the only one a bit confused regarding the ebay sellers statements as follows:

"DVI-D required"

Shouldn´t a DVI-I work just aswell, aslong as it´s a DUAL LINK?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEW2K*
> 
> Am I the only one a bit confused regarding the ebay sellers statements as follows:
> 
> "DVI-D required"
> 
> Shouldn´t a DVI-I work just aswell, aslong as it´s a DUAL LINK?


Technically DVI-I is DVI-D, just with extra analogue inputs.

But yes, it can be confusing.


----------



## MEW2K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Technically DVI-I is DVI-D, just with extra analogue inputs.
> 
> But yes, it can be confusing.


Yeah, Im fully aware of the difference between DVI-D/DVI-I. But as the majority of the sellers refer to it as "DVI-D" like they were hinting at the digital standard DVI-D instead of DVI DUAL LINK. But I guess they just lack the technical understanding?


----------



## iMPLiCiT

What is the consensus on overclockability + quality on these newer panels? I basically want DP + 120 Hz + no dead pixels + accurate colour/colours that don't make my eyes bleed. I would also want it to be matte. Which one is right for me?


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEW2K*
> 
> Am I the only one a bit confused regarding the ebay sellers statements as follows:
> 
> "DVI-D required"
> 
> Shouldn´t a DVI-I work just aswell, aslong as it´s a DUAL LINK?


Yes either or should work.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMPLiCiT*
> 
> What is the consensus on overclockability + quality on these newer panels? I basically want DP + 120 Hz + no dead pixels + accurate colour/colours that don't make my eyes bleed. I would also want it to be matte. Which one is right for me?


You can't get DisplayPort +120hz right now, in any flavour.


----------



## iMPLiCiT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You can't get DisplayPort +120hz right now, in any flavour.


Bummer. Whats the reason for no DP + 120hz? Bandwidth? Also, ignoring DP, which one is best for colour, 120hz and no dead pixels?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMPLiCiT*
> 
> Bummer. Whats the reason for no DP + 120hz? Bandwidth? Also, ignoring DP, which one is best for colour, 120hz and no dead pixels?


Semantics aside (there aren't any 120hz monitors), the only monitors capable of overclocking to 120hz are dual-link DVI only. None of the DisplayPort models can overclock.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMPLiCiT*
> 
> Bummer. Whats the reason for no DP + 120hz? Bandwidth? Also, ignoring DP, which one is best for colour, 120hz and no dead pixels?


It's a gamble and you can't guarantee any of that unless you specifically coordinate with a seller that can hand select a monitor and you'll probably pay a decent amount more than the lowest price.


----------



## iCrap

Got mine today. The idiot sent me the regular model even though i payed for the DP model with HDMI DVI DP. Its flawless though, no dead pixels and no backlight bleed.
I guess i should just keep it, try to get the rest of my money back. (Apparently there is no way this screen would have worked with my laptop anyways)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Got mine today. The idiot sent me the regular model even though i payed for the DP model with HDMI DVI DP. Its flawless though, no dead pixels and no backlight bleed.
> I guess i should just keep it, try to get the rest of my money back. (Apparently there is no way this screen would have worked with my laptop anyways)


It should work. Maybe not at full resolution over HDMI, but if your laptop has DisplayPort, then it'll work with the Qnix at full res.


----------



## uio77

I received the screen a couple of weeks ago. Overclocked to 110Hz without any problem. GTX 770 handle graphics very well.
1440p is a great resolution for gaming and spread sheet.
Very happy with this monster...


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> It should work. Maybe not at full resolution over HDMI, but if your laptop has DisplayPort, then it'll work with the Qnix at full res.


I have a Y510p, it only has VGA and HDMI. Although HDMI is supposed to support 2560x1440p

Maybe there are DVI to HDMI adapters? now i dont want to deal with sending my DVI only model back.


----------



## oneilljstn

Bought mine a while ago, but never got round to posting the pic.
One stuck pixel on the extreme left, i think it might even be the pixel closest to the edge so I cannot see it unless I go looking for it.
There is a little backlight bleed at the bottom right, where the bezel has pulled away from the panel a bit. I might try and fix it, but it doesn't bother me too much.



I tried to take a photo of where the bezel is coming away from the panel, but my phone has a dodgy camera lol.


----------



## Stylook

Yeah, mine too, it's at the center bottom panel is not sticking to the bezel. I just found out that one of my speaker might not be working. I tried to use the speaker config and test the sound output, it's only the right side of the stereo speaker diagram that output the test sound. Sigh. Anyway overall is a darn good panel.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Man Crysis 2 looks nice on this thing. Just picked it and 5 other games up for cheap (and goes to charities too):

https://www.humblebundle.com/


----------



## Master__Shake

sorry if it has already been asked, but im asking if anyone in canada whom has bought one (i read the faq about fees didn't answer my question)had to pay a brokerage fee and if so how much?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> sorry if it has already been asked, but im asking if anyone in canada whom has bought one (i read the faq about fees didn't answer my question)had to pay a brokerage fee and if so how much?


Brokerage fee depends on your carrier. Sales tax will be assessed at the border. There is no customs or duty.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stylook*
> 
> Yeah, mine too, it's at the center bottom panel is not sticking to the bezel. I just found out that one of my speaker might not be working. I tried to use the speaker config and test the sound output, it's only the right side of the stereo speaker diagram that output the test sound. Sigh. Anyway overall is a darn good panel.


Mine bows out at the bottom also but they all do that because the bezels are cheap as ***** !! no BLB at the bottom though so it doesn't really matter.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 1. If you have it at the lowest possible timings then it still could be the polarity(which i have not seen you mention as of yet) Also if you have a second monitor connected try removing it for a while and maybe even reboot to see if it still flickering. You ay also want to make sure your drivers are patched with toastyx's patch(if they are patched it will tell you and not allow you to run the patch again). other than that i would try a few other cables and see if you can get it to stop flickering.
> 
> 2. I have no idea mine did not show red and it did allow me to use them
> 
> 3. Yes it is better to have a low pixel clock(this is comparable to having the highest front side bus when OC a CPU "sort of")
> 
> 4. It does not directly handle color at all but by having a lowest stressed pixel clock or data rate going through the cable you reduce ALL side effects including color(so technically your statement is correct but maybe not the thought process IDK)


Thanks again Spartan. No second monitor, and the drivers are patched. Not sure what polarity does, but I haven't changed it. It's set to + for horizontal and - for vertical.


----------



## Sannakji

Wow the prices for these monitors are steadily going up...


----------



## saberX

I pulled a risky trigger on it and here I am trying 1080p on this monitor.

All I did is change the resolution on windows 7 to 1080p via right click desktop and then screen resolution. I did not mess around with video card settings at all for my AMD 6870. It is probably the gpu that is doing this but there are no black borders just as I wanted for normal browsing or for games. This is the same result one gets on the U2713HM when putting it at 1080p which has a built in scalar. I don't notice any fuzziness at this res.
I guess my phone camera cannot capture the image properly but it looks a lot better than the photo. Basically it looks same as 1080p looks on U2713HM and better than S2740L due to below mentioned smaller physical pixels thing.


So for ppl that wanna use this for 1080p on a desktop, go ahead, it works without borders for desktop browsing and games even without having a scalar built in cuz gpu does the work.

Reasons/Benefits of this:
-1440p text is too small for your eyes and increasing dpi messes up some UI stuff and some in game settings
-1080p text on this monitor looks sharper compared to 1080p on another 27" monitor that is native 1080p like the Dell S2740L or that Benq MVA panel ppl get for ~$200. Reason is cuz 1440p monitor has smaller physical pixels compared to a native 1080p monitor.
-This monitor is about the same price as Dell S2740L while being a lot better (ok maybe a few more bucks when factoring in customs; ~$296 all in for S2740L vs this cost me ~$330 all in)

BL bleed:
I tried 3 U2713HM monitors before returning them and two had abt the same levels of BL bleeding as this and one had worst than this. BL bleed not noticeable when lights are on or daytime. Maybe I lucked out on this one. No dead pixels on this or the three U2713HM monitors that I tried.

Overall I am very happy with this as it is 90% of the U2713HM for a fraction of the price; ~$330 all in for this vs. $624.xx all in for the U2713HM when it was on sale for $540. These don't suffer from the horrible checkerboard pattern over white colour that the U2713HM shows. Blacks were a bit darker on the U2713HM though at 50% brightness, I have this at 50% brightness too and tried other levels but same result.

PS. settings in my gpu:


----------



## jokrik

Can anyone maybe tell me a step by step instruction on how to fix the backlight bleed by pushing the panel, I'm still not sure how it might works though

I know by opening it up and using tape it can fix it but risk of dead pixel is there
I've mine with pretty bad backlight bleed


----------



## DiceAir

So my flickering issue is not solved with another cable. When I enable my SLi on my GTX570's I get flickering on stock 60Hz and when I disable it it works. I tried both cards and they work 100%

Flickering only happens in games so looks like my bottom slot is not working anymore







oh well need to upgrade soon anyway so maybe sell cards and upgrade to 780 GTX or new radeon cards


----------



## MEW2K

My two X-Star DP2710 "Glossy" arrived today from Green-Sum, slight back light bleeding but both are running *stable* at *120hz* so I´m pretty damn satisfied!


----------



## lef1337

got my qnix today minimal blb at the bottom and overclock fine at 120 hz but the screen get darker any color profile for 120 hz?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Post #1 of this thread dude. Also could try a search here for ICC.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lef1337*
> 
> got my qnix today minimal blb at the bottom and overclock fine at 120 hz but the screen get darker any color profile for 120 hz?


Hello lef1337. Congrats on your new QNIX. I see it's your first post on OCN.....Welcome aboard.









The ICC profiles for different over clocking and Hz profiles is located on the first page under *Color Calibration Profiles and How to install them*

Under the same 'spoiler' you will see a link for *How to install Color Calibration Profiles on TFT Central*


----------



## filip5

Hi this is my first post here I just got a QNIX 2710 from Bigclothcrath perfect pixel matte screen, however I have noticed a white pixel stuck near the midlle of the screen
any suggestions on what I should do ?
thanks


----------



## lef1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Hello lef1337. Congrats on your new QNIX. I see it's your first post on OCN.....Welcome aboard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ICC profiles for different over clocking and Hz profiles is located on the first page under *Color Calibration Profiles and How to install them*
> 
> Under the same 'spoiler' you will see a link for *How to install Color Calibration Profiles on TFT Central*


thx for the help it looks fine now is there any monitor driver for the qnix or i just use the generic pnp one


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lef1337*
> 
> thx for the help it looks fine now is there any monitor driver for the qnix or i just use the generic pnp one


A generic monitor driver works fine however using the catleap driver seems to improve compatibility with some games recognizing the OC refresh. You can find this by searching "catleap driver" in this thread.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> A generic monitor driver works fine however using the catleap driver seems to improve compatibility with some games recognizing the OC refresh. You can find this by searching "catleap driver" in this thread.


Can you maybe link to it?


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Can you maybe link to it?


http://www.monitortests.com/catleap.zip


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/catleap.zip


Thanks.


----------



## vosure

Just received (3) X-Star PLS monitors a few days ago; very happy with them though two have a blue/cool cast and the other a red/warm cast.

Just got the Spyder4Elite in today as I really want them all synced, though having major issues with it.

I've spent nearly two hours trying to calibrate these monitors, but the calibrated and non-calibrated result are exactly the same. If I open Sypder Tune and manually adjust the White Point to say Red (slider bar all the way to the right), I can see the difference while sliding but as soon as I let up on the mouse it reverts as if it were in the middle (though the slider stays where I put it).

I've tried various settings via the Color Management tool in Windows (use my profile, letting Windows load the saved profile or not, loading other's icc files, etc.); nothing ever changes, like it's being overwritten.
DisplayProfile.exe does nothing either when switching profiles.

I have no other color management software installed (this is a pretty fresh install of Windows 8.1); I didn't have Catalyst Control Center installed for my W600... tried installing it just in case but no difference.

I'm pulling my hair out here!


----------



## vosure

Well *#@%; I cannot believe I just figured it out.

It was f.lux; duh.


----------



## Chronica

Does anyone know if the Xstar monitors stand is removable without taking off the bezel?

I tried pulling on it but couldn't get it to come out.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chronica*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Xstar monitors stand is removable without taking off the bezel?


It has to be taken apart, I have a guide in my video review


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vosure*
> 
> Just received (3) X-Star PLS monitors a few days ago; very happy with them though two have a blue/cool cast and the other a red/warm cast.
> 
> Just got the Spyder4Elite in today as I really want them all synced, though having major issues with it.
> 
> I've spent nearly two hours trying to calibrate these monitors, but the calibrated and non-calibrated result are exactly the same. If I open Sypder Tune and manually adjust the White Point to say Red (slider bar all the way to the right), I can see the difference while sliding but as soon as I let up on the mouse it reverts as if it were in the middle (though the slider stays where I put it).
> 
> I've tried various settings via the Color Management tool in Windows (use my profile, letting Windows load the saved profile or not, loading other's icc files, etc.); nothing ever changes, like it's being overwritten.
> DisplayProfile.exe does nothing either when switching profiles.
> 
> I have no other color management software installed (this is a pretty fresh install of Windows 8.1); I didn't have Catalyst Control Center installed for my W600... tried installing it just in case but no difference.
> 
> I'm pulling my hair out here!


You came to the right place - I did a post on calibration here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1397938/my-spyder4elite-monitor-calibrator-loan-thread/160#post_20476964
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chronica*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Xstar monitors stand is removable without taking off the bezel?
> 
> I tried pulling on it but couldn't get it to come out.


Mine does, I have normal version. It requires quite a lot of force and wiggling to pull out.
But I heard that the DP version has a screwed in stand, so it could depend on what batch you got.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMPLiCiT*
> 
> Bummer. Whats the reason for no DP + 120hz? Bandwidth? Also, ignoring DP, which one is best for colour, 120hz and no dead pixels?


There are two versions, multi-input that include DP and single-input that are dual-link DVI. Single input dual-link DVI is apparently cheaper / more commonly produced than single input DP, so that was the choice. Dual-link DVI doesn't have bandwidth limitations per spec, so it depends on the transmitter, the receiver, and the cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I have a Y510p, it only has VGA and HDMI. Although HDMI is supposed to support 2560x1440p
> 
> Maybe there are DVI to HDMI adapters? now i dont want to deal with sending my DVI only model back.


HDMI to DVI passive adapters are single link. You need dual-link DVI. Maybe there is an active HDMI to dual-link DVI adapter somewhere out there, but HDMI needs to have sufficient bandwidth for at least 60Hz, which I doubt, unless you're content with running your monitor at 30Hz (maybe even single link will work then).

*@vosure:* I see that you've solved your issue, but you may also want to try using ArgyllCMS (+dispcalGUI if you wish) / HCFR Colorimetre. Fantastic software that might give you more features than even the Spyder4 Elite package. I have the Spyder4Express, got the cheapest package for the sensor. Bet the sensor is the same and only difference is the ambient light sensor and the software package, obviously.


----------



## vosure

@yasamoka Thanks much; I will definitely try those packages out.


----------



## vosure

A bit confused on the Spyder software; the color profiles are sticking now but I'm not able to get them all to match... still have a blue cast on two and red on one.

I'm using the Studio Match and have been at this for 4 hours now :O


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vosure*
> 
> A bit confused on the Spyder software; the color profiles are sticking now but I'm not able to get them all to match... still have a blue cast on two and red on one.
> 
> I'm using the Studio Match and have been at this for 4 hours now :O


Have you tried to turn the other monitors off and calibrate each monitor on its own?

Copy the resulting profiles from the Windows directory that the Spyder software provides you with and keep them someplace else.

Then, try CPKeeper, maybe the issue is simply loading the profiles into the video card gamma table for multiple monitors at the same time. That way you can lock the profiles even if you enter a game.

A more complex alternative is PowerStrip, if you find that works better for you than CPKeeper. I used to use PowerStrip but now CPKeeper does the job so I stick to that.

Just setting up ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI at this point (takes a few minutes + installation of an unsigned driver for the Spyder4 sensor) would offer you a quick and simple option of loading each profile and verifying the calibration. Then you will read a log that provides you with the calibrated monitor's gamma, contrast ratio, color temperature, DeltaE values, etc... try it.


----------



## vosure

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Try CPKeeper, maybe the issue is simply loading the video card gamma table for multiple monitors at the same time. That way you can lock the profiles even if you enter a game.
> 
> A more complex alternative is PowerStrip, if you find that works better for you than CPKeeper. I used to use PowerStrip but now CPKeeper does the job so I stick to that.


Great, thanks; will look into that.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vosure*
> 
> Great, thanks; will look into that.


Edited my reply


----------



## theilya

Got mine of craigslist today.
Paid $200
no dead pixels or light bleed, but I get little line flicker at 120mhz.
Stable at 110


----------



## RemagCP

Looks like green-sum just passed 1,000 panels a little bit ago. I wonder how many more they have left, hopefully lots.

I wonder if the price is going to go down more as well.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> Got mine of craigslist today.
> Paid $200
> no dead pixels or light bleed, but I get little line flicker at 120mhz.
> Stable at 110


Man i wish i could run my monitor at 120MHz. It would kick lightboost's butt and likely even be better than CRT. I am only at 120hz









Seriously even running at 1Mhz refresh would be just crazy


----------



## MarvinDessica

Anyone have trouble with games not responding to your overclock? Anything over 60 gives me horrible tearing!


----------



## DyslexicChciken

I just got my QNIX from IPSLEDmonitors.com. No dead pixels as far as I can say, and no light bleed at all. I definitely recommend IPSLEDmonitors.com, they have amazing customer service. Every time I sent them an email, they replied the same day a few hours later. They are honest saying that you will always have to expect dead pixels and told me that "perfect pixel" for ebay sellers are a gimmick to get more money.

Yes, the stand absolutely sucks. There is supposed to be a hole in the middle so the metal circular plug on the monitor would fit in, but instead the hole is skewed to the side, so the monitor wobbles on the stand.

Anyone know of a good stand and a guide for replacing the stand?

I just got a new problem, I got some hi resolution wallpapers to use for my QNIX, but it is not showing up when I set it as desktop background. Anyone know what is going on? They are not 2560X1440 wallapapers.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> Got mine of craigslist today.
> Paid $200
> no dead pixels or light bleed, but I get little line flicker at 120mhz.
> Stable at 110


That is a major score for $200, nice work!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Anyone have trouble with games not responding to your overclock? Anything over 60 gives me horrible tearing!


If you're unsure as to whether the game is even utilizing your overclock, make sure you're creating your custom refresh rates using CRU as opposed to nVidia control panel or the AMD equivalent. Apparently EVGA Precision X is also able to lock refresh rates for games.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyslexicChciken*
> 
> I just got my QNIX from IPSLEDmonitors.com. No dead pixels as far as I can say, and no light bleed at all. I definitely recommend IPSLEDmonitors.com, they have amazing customer service. Every time I sent them an email, they replied the same day a few hours later. They are honest saying that you will always have to expect dead pixels and told me that "perfect pixel" for ebay sellers are a gimmick to get more money.
> 
> Yes, the stand absolutely sucks. There is supposed to be a hole in the middle so the metal circular plug on the monitor would fit in, but instead the hole is skewed to the side, so the monitor wobbles on the stand.
> 
> Anyone know of a good stand and a guide for replacing the stand?
> 
> I just got a new problem, I got some hi resolution wallpapers to use for my QNIX, but it is not showing up when I set it as desktop background. Anyone know what is going on? They are not 2560X1440 wallapapers.


I purchased this one and am overall satisfied for the price: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C29QN8

You might be able to get it cheaper at monoprice as well.

Unsure about your background problem, depends on the OS. This is a decent site for dual monitor wallpapers (though also missing 1440p): http://www.mandolux.com/

edit: apparently mandolux no longer has a listing of archived wallpapers, bummer


----------



## ronquilent

I'm having second thoughts about the matte version that I have. Does anyone think it's a mistake to sell it because the text isn't as sharp as my glossy panel? I don't know.... I stare at text a lot and I can tell the difference even though the glossy obviously still shows reflections since I sit next to a window. I was thinking about just getting the glossy version of the QNIX since the colors are much better than the IPS panels for sure.... Not sure what to do :/


----------



## DyslexicChciken

Do you have a QNIX glossy version and the matte version, how were you able to tell the difference otherwise?

I wouldn't recommend glossy if there are a lot of lighting in your room. I can tell you that from working on glossy apple monitors at school. It really strains your eye. If you stare at the reflection for too long, you get a "visual after-effect" of the image, where when you look away, say at a white wall, you will see an after-image of the reflection. Best bet is for you to go to a computer store and compare matte and glossy monitors. The difference in colors between glossy and matte monitors aren't too different for me, so I chose the matte one.


----------



## Bludge

Continuing my good luck with Korean monitors, after my iRun was pixel perfect, my $280 glossy QNIX, currently sitting at 120hz, no back-light bleed or dead / stuck pixels. Haven't tested any higher, dont see the point, monitor is being pushed by 780 SLi


----------



## Kwisatz

Been having my X-star for a week now and am happy with it. At first I was very disappointed though: horrible blb over nearly half the screen. The tape fix helped a lot and now I only get minor bleed at the upper corners. Thanks for the tips!

Writting in word is brilliant, I can fit three pages on the screen at the same time, very helpfull when you have to cross reference to different sections. The colours are just amazing (I'm on a matte, but still) and playing games is a totally new experience. Because of the high pixel density you don't really need AA anymore.

My HD6970 2GB is struggling with native resolution in most modern games though, so I turn it down to 1200p (used to be on a 16:10, so I feel comfy with that) and it works like a charm.
For anyone wondering about GPU scaling with radeons and how to not stretch the image but center it in non-fullscreen: that option is greyed out by default in the driver. In order to be able to select it you have to first lower the resolution in windows, then go to the driver and tick the option, reset the resolution and as soon as you start a game with 1080p it will automatically switch into non-fullscreen, but with the surrounding areas blacked out.

Also very helpful for people using firefox and finding the fonts a little too small: https://addons.mozilla.org/de/firefox/addon/no-small-text/
This add-on allows you to set a minimun font size that is applied to all browser texts. I have it set to 16 and it is very comfortable to read. No more zooming out every time!


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> My HD6970 2GB is struggling with native resolution in most modern games though, so I turn it down to 1200p (used to be on a 16:10, so I feel comfy with that) and it works like a charm.
> For anyone wondering about GPU scaling with radeons and how to not stretch the image but center it in non-fullscreen: that option is greyed out by default in the driver. In order to be able to select it you have to first lower the resolution in windows, then go to the driver and tick the option, reset the resolution and as soon as you start a game with 1080p it will automatically switch into non-fullscreen, but with the surrounding areas blacked out.


Have you tried overclocking it? I'm pretty sure if you are prepared to give up some eye candy in game, and overclock it, you can consistently run at some very acceptable frames at 1440p. I personally use a single 7950 (overclocked to 1200/1450/1.2v) and although its certainly not pushing out 120 frames+ consistently in bf3, it can easily average 90 or so on the ground. I'm more of a air person though so I generally get 120+.

Point is, I don't think the 6970 is that much worse, it should at bare minimum be able to handle 1440p @ 60hz when OCd.


----------



## Kwisatz

Actually it is a flashed 6950







, with clock and memory @6970 so it is already reasonably overclocked. I might be able to push it even further if I'd fiddle with the Vcore, but I don't want to, the card is already running pretty hot and is loud as is. Yea, I might be able to run all games @1440p but I prefer to play with full details @1200p. Been playing Dishonored: TBW and it looks absolutely glorious on this screen!
Frostbite engine performs surprisingly well @1440p! Around 60fps with mostly everything cranked up. In Dead Space 3 (thank you humble bundle!) it performs even better I think.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> Got mine of craigslist today.
> Paid $200
> no dead pixels or light bleed, but I get little line flicker at 120mhz.
> Stable at 110


Wow. I always tell myself to check CL regularly and never do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Man i wish i could run my monitor at 120MHz. It would kick lightboost's butt and likely even be better than CRT. I am only at 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously even running at 1Mhz refresh would be just crazy


C'mon dude. I usually think your snarkiness is warranted but this was just a typo most like. Hey I'm jealous of his CL score too.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> Been having my X-star for a week now and am happy with it. At first I was very disappointed though: horrible blb over nearly half the screen. The tape fix helped a lot and now I only get minor bleed at the upper corners. Thanks for the tips!
> 
> The colours are just amazing (I'm on a matte, but still) and playing games is a totally new experience. Because of the high pixel density you don't really need AA anymore.
> 
> My HD6970 2GB is struggling with native resolution in most modern games though, so I turn it down to 1200p (used to be on a 16:10, so I feel comfy with that) and it works like a charm.


Cool that the tape mod worked well for you; did you find it at all difficult to remove the metal frame? Agreed re. the color...but not re. AA. Granted I need less now but surely not none. But this is of course mostly subjective both to personal pref and what one plays. Also interesting that you are having good results at 1200P; I thought the general consensus was that anything below 1440 looked far inferior to running that lower res natively on a different display. At least with 1080P.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> In Dead Space 3 (thank you humble bundle!) it performs even better I think.


Indeed! Haven't downloaded DS 3 yet but this bundle was a total score. Burnout Paradise is actually really fun too. I gave away Mirror's Edge as I already have it. Still have a Dead Space key if anyone wants it.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Anyone have trouble with games not responding to your overclock? Anything over 60 gives me horrible tearing!


What games are you playing? No tearing here.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

You should only get tearing when you are pushing many MORE frames per sec than your refresh rate. So that's strange offhand (unless I'm missing something or you are only playing Farmville).


----------



## Coree

Still having image persistance at 60hz. I see the Firefox's search bar on the right top corner. This is really getting too weird. Last week I left the screen white for 36hrs alltogether, didn't help. Is this permanent? I've had this issue for 3 weeks now! Really i regret OCing this monitor -.-


----------



## ronquilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coree*
> 
> Still having image persistance at 60hz. I see the Firefox's search bar on the right top corner. This is really getting too weird. Last week I left the screen white for 36hrs alltogether, didn't help. Is this permanent? I've had this issue for 3 weeks now! Really i regret OCing this monitor -.-


Do you leave the monitor on for extended periods of time?


----------



## Coree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> Do you leave the monitor on for extended periods of time?


Yes.. But 2 weeks ago I did test to shut down the monitor for 24h, but didn't help.


----------



## Kwisatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cool that the tape mod worked well for you; did you find it at all difficult to remove the metal frame? Agreed re. the color...but not re. AA. Granted I need less now but surely not none. But this is of course mostly subjective both to personal pref and what one plays. Also interesting that you are having good results at 1200P; I thought the general consensus was that anything below 1440 looked far inferior to running that lower res natively on a different display. At least with 1080P.


I'd agree that anything below 1440p would look terrible as long as you stretch that image to full panel size and make the monitor interpolate the pixels. However, I don't do that, I give up some of the panel space when using something called "use centered timings" in the Catalyst Control Center image scaling options. It makes the game play in a quasi-window mode, but borderless and with black backround. So it is like playing in native 1200p.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> What games are you playing? No tearing here.


Crysis 3 Battlefield 3 and XCom so far


----------



## atomicmew

Image burn:

Does anyone know if this does damage? I know it seems to go away after a few mins, but I'm wondering if there is anything permanent. Right now I'm running desktop at 75 Hz and games at 110 Hz.


----------



## Swolern

Damn these monitors just keep getting cheaper & cheaper!!! Now $259








http://slickdeals.net/permadeal/100936/ebay-27-xstar-dp2710-2560x1440-led-monitor-w-samsung-pls-panel-matte


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicmew*
> 
> Image burn:
> 
> Does anyone know if this does damage? I know it seems to go away after a few mins, but I'm wondering if there is anything permanent. Right now I'm running desktop at 75 Hz and games at 110 Hz.


Well first of all, it's image retention. You won't burn in an image on this kind of monitor. You would experience burn in on a screen that was AMOLED like my old Galaxy Nexus which does in fact burn in the image and will NEVER go away. Any image retention you experience will go away with time, but it seems to be hit or miss with who is experiencing it. I left my monitor (96 Hz) on for about 5 hours by accident when I left for class displaying my Chrome homepage, just thank goodness I saw no retention.


----------



## Kaze105

I saw the 259 deal and am really considering of buying the Xstar DP2710. One thing is that I do like playing a lot of FPS games. Considering that it seems like there are people that noticed motion blur, should I consider a different monitor, or is it not so bad.


----------



## KoolKoney

I was thinking about buying on now that it's $260. Is the stand easy to remove tho? Because I want to mount it on my monitor arm. Thanks.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolKoney*
> 
> I was thinking about buying on now that it's $260. Is the stand easy to remove tho? Because I want to mount it on my monitor arm. Thanks.


If prying the case open (flat head screwdriver or other proper plastic tools) and unscrewing two bolts is easy to you, then yes.


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> If prying the case open (flat head screwdriver or other proper plastic tools) and unscrewing two bolts is easy to you, then yes.


Isn't that just for the Qnix ones? I though the X-Star one was different?


----------



## turkletont

Would you guys recommend picking up an x-star from dreamseller for someone who already has a 60hz 1440p korean monitor but wants to upgrade to a 120hz one? or is that too random/luck of the draw to bank on?


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> That is a major score for $200, nice work!
> If you're unsure as to whether the game is even utilizing your overclock, make sure you're creating your custom refresh rates using CRU as opposed to nVidia control panel or the AMD equivalent. Apparently EVGA Precision X is also able to lock refresh rates for games.
> I purchased this one and am overall satisfied for the price: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C29QN8
> 
> You might be able to get it cheaper at monoprice as well.
> 
> Unsure about your background problem, depends on the OS. This is a decent site for dual monitor wallpapers (though also missing 1440p): http://www.mandolux.com/
> 
> edit: apparently mandolux no longer has a listing of archived wallpapers, bummer


I tried CRU and it NEVER inserts it into Nvidias control panel or windows....


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> I'd agree that anything below 1440p would look terrible as long as you stretch that image to full panel size and make the monitor interpolate the pixels. However, I don't do that, I give up some of the panel space when using something called "use centered timings" in the Catalyst Control Center image scaling options. It makes the game play in a quasi-window mode, but borderless and with black backround. So it is like playing in native 1200p.


Ah right. Forgot about that as never done it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Isn't that just for the Qnix ones? I though the X-Star one was different?


Conflicting reports on this. I saw someone claim no screws inside the X-Star so it could just be pulled out but then another guy said his was in fact screwed in. It's really easy regardless. Removing the frame from the panel to do the tape mod is where it can start to get delicate...


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turkletont*
> 
> Would you guys recommend picking up an x-star from dreamseller for someone who already has a 60hz 1440p korean monitor but wants to upgrade to a 120hz one? or is that too random/luck of the draw to bank on?


Have you tried 120hz before? Did you enjoy it? If you answered yes and feel that 120hz is worth the effort, then yes, I would definitely do it. You'll obviously need to sell your current one/buy a brand new PLS one, which, in the process, you will lose around $100. Generally speaking, its a luck of draw beyond 96hz.

In terms of the luck behind it, more than 98% of people who get these monitors do 96hz without problems, beyond that is a matter of luck. Some people manage up to 110, others 115, with the current best being 139 I believe. The question is, however, do you need the extra Hz beyond 96Hz? 96Hz is already a HUGE upgrade from 60Hz, and unless you have extensively used 120hz or beyond that for quite some time beforehand, and are used to how smooth it is, you will virtually see no difference between the two.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Have you tried 120hz before? Did you enjoy it? If you answered yes and feel that 120hz is worth the effort, then yes, I would definitely do it. You'll obviously need to sell your current one/buy a brand new PLS one, which, in the process, you will lose around $100. Generally speaking, its a luck of draw beyond 96hz.
> 
> In terms of the luck behind it, more than 98% of people who get these monitors do 96hz without problems, beyond that is a matter of luck. Some people manage up to 110, others 115, with the current best being 139 I believe. The question is, however, do you need the extra Hz beyond 96Hz? 96Hz is already a HUGE upgrade from 60Hz, and unless you have extensively used 120hz or beyond that for quite some time beforehand, and are used to how smooth it is, you will virtually see no difference between the two.


There is a bit of a difference but it is not going to be a deal breaker between 96hz and 120hz. I would have still sold my crossover and gotten a Qnix. I have gotten mine to 153hz(a line here and there) now and i can say that anything over 120hz just doesn't seem like a worth while improvement and it is completely undetectable by t he naked eye. You can definitely see the difference when doing a benchmark like the UFO motion tests but that is really it. Like you said it is almost certain that will get 96hz and likely you can do about 108, past that is luck of the draw and how much effort you put into working with all the variables involved to get the best stability thus the best overclock.

Coming from a Korean IPS panel i can say even at 60hz this panel was worth it(to sell the crossover and buy the Qnix)


----------



## turkletont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Have you tried 120hz before? Did you enjoy it? If you answered yes and feel that 120hz is worth the effort, then yes, I would definitely do it. You'll obviously need to sell your current one/buy a brand new PLS one, which, in the process, you will lose around $100. Generally speaking, its a luck of draw beyond 96hz.
> 
> In terms of the luck behind it, more than 98% of people who get these monitors do 96hz without problems, beyond that is a matter of luck. Some people manage up to 110, others 115, with the current best being 139 I believe. The question is, however, do you need the extra Hz beyond 96Hz? 96Hz is already a HUGE upgrade from 60Hz, and unless you have extensively used 120hz or beyond that for quite some time beforehand, and are used to how smooth it is, you will virtually see no difference between the two.


Thanks, ya I've used 120hz a lot in the past but switched to a 60hz 1440p because I wanted a higher reso. Now that I'm getting back more in to "competitive" games I miss my 120hz. So If I buy one of these monitors it's specifically just to get a 120 (or close to) hz monitor


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turkletont*
> 
> Thanks, ya I've used 120hz a lot in the past but switched to a 60hz 1440p because I wanted a higher reso. Now that I'm getting back more in to "competitive" games I miss my 120hz. So If I buy one of these monitors it's specifically just to get a 120 (or close to) hz monitor


In that case, definitely go for it. 120hz @ 1440p gaming is out of this world!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There is a bit of a difference but it is not going to be a deal breaker between 96hz and 120hz. I would have still sold my crossover and gotten a Qnix. I have gotten mine to 153hz(a line here and there) now and i can say that anything over 120hz just doesn't seem like a worth while improvement and it is completely undetectable by t he naked eye. You can definitely see the difference when doing a benchmark like the UFO motion tests but that is really it. Like you said it is almost certain that will get 96hz and likely you can do about 108, past that is luck of the draw and how much effort you put into working with all the variables involved to get the best stability thus the best overclock.
> 
> Coming from a Korean IPS panel i can say even at 60hz this panel was worth it(to sell the crossover and buy the Qnix)


Yeah, if you get used to 120hz, 96hz can definitely seem choppier. 153 is really impressive though, what kind of pixel clock do you have to get that high?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> In that case, definitely go for it. 120hz @ 1440p gaming is out of this world!
> Yeah, if you get used to 120hz, 96hz can definitely seem choppier. 153 is really impressive though, what kind of pixel clock do you have to get that high?


153hz = 645mhz @ default timings. Warm cable!


----------



## yasamoka

It is my belief that since these overclockable Korean monitors come with the Explore EP269 controller, they are natively capable of a 450MHz pixel clock (around ~110Hz roughly). The 96Hz is easy since other factors like cable quality, graphics cards, drivers (for those who don't apply patches), etc... come into play after. And to be honest, most of the people who overclock don't go all the way to make sure they're getting a higher overclock / lower pixel clock. They see a scan line and that's that.

Another limitation is the Samsung PLS panel that's used in these. Obviously, with the increased image retention, gamma shift, and uniformity issues (with high pixel clocks according to Spartan F8 - you're awesome), it's clear that these panels are made for 60Hz in mind. For those who cannot calibrate their monitors with a colorimeter / spectrophotometer, or cannot reach a desired gamma level that's pleasing to their eyes (subjective), or cannot find ICC profiles that make the monitor come close to their desired gamma level (again, subjective and not very accurate), they might prefer a lower overclock to reduce the gamma shift. I hope that doesn't seep into the overclocking results.

I'd like to test that theory (in the first paragraph) with a sample of overclockers who've only gotten up to 96Hz, hopefully when I get my monitor.


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> 153hz = 645mhz @ default timings. Warm cable!


Damn! Really stretching the limits there xD


----------



## Sunii

Hello, I was planning to buy a QNIX Monitor and a adjustable stand (This one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648) at the same time. Though, I was wondering if I have to buy new screws to attach the new stand to the back of the monitor or does it happen to have sufficient screws to work with? Thank you. :]


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunii*
> 
> Hello, I was planning to buy a QNIX Monitor and a adjustable stand (This one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120857358937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648) at the same time. Though, I was wondering if I have to buy new screws to attach the new stand to the back of the monitor or does it happen to have sufficient screws to work with? Thank you. :]


Ask the seller if it comes with screws because the monitor does not come with any. The adjustable stand I bought (different model) came with screws that were too long, so I had to use padding between the vesa mount and the monitor in order to get it sturdy. I could have bought different screws or sawed the ends off the included screws but I'm lazy.


----------



## Sunii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Ask the seller if it comes with screws because the monitor does not come with any. The adjustable stand I bought (different model) came with screws that were too long, so I had to use padding between the vesa mount and the monitor in order to get it sturdy. I could have bought different screws or sawed the ends off the included screws but I'm lazy.


Thanks for the reply, I'll ask the seller and see what happens from there.


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunii*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I'll ask the seller and see what happens from there.


Ask him from a different ebay account, if something goes wrong with your monitor they can use you opening up the monitor as a scapegoat to slither out of a warranty claim.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> what kind of pixel clock do you have to get that high?


Pixel clock of 566.7Mhz for 153hz, it took lots of tweaking but it isn't too far fetched when you consider others have gotten to 120hz with stock timings which is just under 500Mhz. I have also seen people post they got around 130hz with just using precisionX. Now i have not played with precisionX but i am thinking it uses stock timings which would be like 540Mhz'ish. So those who have gotten to about 130hz with stock timings could go as far or farther than me with a good deal of effort. Or have a lot better stability at 120hz with the tighter timings. I don't keep it that high since above 140hz i start getting color retention and panel brightness uniformity issues again.

Really pushing the panel as far as possible and then stepping back to 120hz turned out to be a pretty good strategy for me. I run 120hz 24/7 and haven't seen an issue since i stopped messing around with optimization.


----------



## Violet

I just went ahead and pulled the trigger on a Qnix Matte 27".

Said it should arrive Tuesday-Friday.

I'll keep y'all posted.


----------



## thekamikazepr

Got mine last Wednesday. I havent notice a Dead/stuck pixel nor light bleed. was missing the US adapter (I used the same one i had for my monitors). Undecided if I want to mount it or not, not as wiggly as expected (not bad) .


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It is my belief that since these overclockable Korean monitors come with the Explore EP269 controller, they are natively capable of a 450MHz pixel clock (around ~110Hz roughly). The 96Hz is easy since other factors like cable quality, graphics cards, drivers (for those who don't apply patches), etc... come into play after. And to be honest, most of the people who overclock don't go all the way to make sure they're getting a higher overclock / lower pixel clock. They see a scan line and that's that.
> 
> Another limitation is the Samsung PLS panel that's used in these. Obviously, with the increased image retention, gamma shift, and uniformity issues (with high pixel clocks according to Spartan F8 - you're awesome), it's clear that these panels are made for 60Hz in mind. For those who cannot calibrate their monitors with a colorimeter / spectrophotometer, or cannot reach a desired gamma level that's pleasing to their eyes (subjective), or cannot find ICC profiles that make the monitor come close to their desired gamma level (again, subjective and not very accurate), they might prefer a lower overclock to reduce the gamma shift. I hope that doesn't seep into the overclocking results.
> 
> I'd like to test that theory (in the first paragraph) with a sample of overclockers who've only gotten up to 96Hz, hopefully when I get my monitor.


+Rep and looking forward to you getting yours too.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It is my belief that since these overclockable Korean monitors come with the Explore EP269 controller, they are natively capable of a 450MHz pixel clock (around ~110Hz roughly). The 96Hz is easy since other factors like cable quality, graphics cards, drivers (for those who don't apply patches), etc... come into play after. And to be honest, most of the people who overclock don't go all the way to make sure they're getting a higher overclock / lower pixel clock. They see a scan line and that's that.
> 
> Another limitation is the Samsung PLS panel that's used in these. Obviously, with the increased image retention, gamma shift, and uniformity issues (with high pixel clocks according to Spartan F8 - you're awesome), it's clear that these panels are made for 60Hz in mind. For those who cannot calibrate their monitors with a colorimeter / spectrophotometer, or cannot reach a desired gamma level that's pleasing to their eyes (subjective), or cannot find ICC profiles that make the monitor come close to their desired gamma level (again, subjective and not very accurate), they might prefer a lower overclock to reduce the gamma shift. I hope that doesn't seep into the overclocking results.
> 
> I'd like to test that theory (in the first paragraph) with a sample of overclockers who've only gotten up to 96Hz, hopefully when I get my monitor.


I think both of these ideas are definitely worth looking into. I have been hinting about the timings for a while now and it would be interesting to know how many people may be missing out on a good deal of stability. The LVDS converter is interesting as i did not know they made same capable of dual link 400MHz+ support. After a bit of search i found these pages which has a bit of good info regarding these converters if anyone is interested.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2110
http://www.epmi.com.tw/news.php?id=102

It would be interesting to see if this improves resulting overclock stability by having a possible increase of bandwidth. The main issue with LVDS is dithering and scaling capabilities. If yourself or anyone else finds a link to directly purchase these(not in bulk) i would buy one to try it out since my panel is debezeled and the board is easily accessible already. I would also like to try it on other name brand IPS panels i have at my disposal to do some other testing regarding overclock possibilities(although this may also take a OC PCB as well. something that can be easily be obtained from Overlord).


----------



## yasamoka

The monitors here DO use the EP269 controller so we already have the monitors capable of handling 450MHz at stock. 60Hz is sort of an underclock, if you get what I mean.


----------



## mmille24

I went back 20-30 pages, I'm not seeing any comparisons of the two monitors. I give up, so if it's already been talked about, I apologize, but I don't want to have to read 600 pages....

27" QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 2560x1440 PLS Matte Monitor $270
vs
27" X-Star DP2710 2560x1440 LED Monitor w/ Samsung PLS Panel (Matte) $259

Has anyone gotten their hands on both to do a comparison?


----------



## Tom114

I don't know if this is a stupid question or not, but if I purchase one of these. Can I run a game at a lower resolution in full screen mode because it apparently has no scaler?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> I went back 20-30 pages, I'm not seeing any comparisons of the two monitors. I give up, so if it's already been talked about, I apologize, but I don't want to have to read 600 pages....
> 
> 27" QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 2560x1440 PLS Matte Monitor $270
> vs
> 27" X-Star DP2710 2560x1440 LED Monitor w/ Samsung PLS Panel (Matte) $259
> 
> Has anyone gotten their hands on both to do a comparison?


This is covered in the OP. You do not need to read the last 600 pages to find it. You can also search "qnix vs xstar". Although you did apologize if you search the entire forum you will see this has been asked 38 times. To protect myself from those who advocate answers being given regardless of the repeat nature of them i will tell you there is no difference at all with the panel or bezel. There is one unconfirmed report that the stand is more easily removable on the xstar due to a lack of screws in the stalk. This is unconfirmed and has had conflicting reports by other sellers. The panels are the exact same Samsung PLS panel model.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> The monitors here DO use the EP269 controller so we already have the monitors capable of handling 450MHz at stock. 60Hz is sort of an underclock, if you get what I mean.


No i understand that but another one would give me redundant testing from chip to chip. It is another variable not yet explored and basically would be the variance between EP269 LVDS boards. Also i would have a second board for monitor to monitor testing thus looking further into the EP269's capabilities further which is in line with your recommendation. Otherwise i would have to take my Qnix down for cross testing. This would narrow out which part of the monitor is the limiting or proceeding factor(like dropping 20hz in overclock ability from chip to chip of if it is more panel dependent).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> I don't know if this is a stupid question or not, but if I purchase one of these. Can I run a game at a lower resolution in full screen mode?


Yes but only with a computer with a Gfx card that has a scaler. The panel has no internal scaler so any device that does not have a scaler(xbox, playstation, DVD players) will not work. There has also been reports of people not being able to render lower resolutions even with the GPU doing the scaling but after tweaking they have gotten it to work. You can also use software scaling with softth or another comparable software. This is also somewhat covered in the OP.


----------



## theilya

is there any complications with SLI and this monitors?


----------



## iwasaperson

If I grab a non pixel perfect Qnix Gloosy from dream-seller with a 3-year SquareTrade warranty, and it has a dead pixel, what do I do? Note that this is theoretical.


----------



## Aftermath2006

Finally broke down and pulled the trigger on the Qnix from green sum for $269 post pics when it arrives


----------



## Tom114

I also pulled the trigger, bought it here from Green-sum, the cheapest one that ships to the netherlands. The price in paypal was exactly 240 euros.

I don't know if I should be excited or nervous now lol


----------



## iwasaperson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> I don't know if this is a stupid question or not, but if I purchase one of these. Can I run a game at a lower resolution in full screen mode because it apparently has no scaler?


That is anything but a stupid question. From what I've read, you need to use the scaler on your GPU.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> is there any complications with SLI and this monitors?


I have been using SLI since i bought mine. No issues except my overclock is about %8 better with one card VS SLI.


----------



## phillyd

Daggonit I just bought from Dreamseller for $280


----------



## Massive17

Just got a glossy X star. Sorry if this had been covered already, but has anyone debezeled the x star? I'm thinking about debezeling and getting a mount for it.

Also, is the included dual dvi capable good quality or should I get a different one?


----------



## vector7

Thinking about getting the Qnix, do I need special adapters or cables to run them on my SLI MSI 470GTXs?


----------



## iwasaperson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Just got a glossy X star. Sorry if this had been covered already, but has anyone debezeled the x star? I'm thinking about debezeling and getting a mount for it.
> 
> Also, is the included dual dvi capable good quality or should I get a different one?


The X Star has the same panel as the Qnix, so it would be close, if not exactly the same procedure.


----------



## iwasaperson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vector7*
> 
> Thinking about getting the Qnix, do I need special adapters or cables to run them on my SLI MSI 470GTXs?


Yes. You need a Dual-Link DVI cable. Single-Link won't work. Other than that, no.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwasaperson*
> 
> If I grab a non pixel perfect Qnix Gloosy from dream-seller with a 3-year SquareTrade warranty, and it has a dead pixel, what do I do? Note that this is theoretical.


You lament your bad luck.


----------



## iCrap

My screen has burn in, i didn't even know that was possible. Google chrome is now etched into the top right corner of my screen.


----------



## iwasaperson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iwasaperson*
> 
> If I grab a non pixel perfect Qnix Gloosy from dream-seller with a 3-year SquareTrade warranty, and it has a dead pixel, what do I do? Note that this is theoretical.
> 
> 
> 
> You lament your bad luck.
Click to expand...

Is there any way to guarantee a pixel perfect monitor? I heard even the pixel perfects can still have dead pixels.


----------



## iwasaperson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> My screen has burn in, i didn't even know that was possible. Google chrome is now etched into the top right corner of my screen


I'm pretty sure that's just image retention. Try rapidly changing colors on the screen.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> My screen has burn in, i didn't even know that was possible. Google chrome is now etched into the top right corner of my screen.


This happens when a panel is overclocked the easy way and all you do is set it to a higher frequency rather than optimizing the pixel clock. It will go away after a while because like iwasaperson said it is NOT burn in it is color retention.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwasaperson*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that's just image retention. Try rapidly changing colors on the screen.


Also this website works very well. And i suggest getting a quicker screensaver or screen timeout if you don't optimize it.
http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html
EDIT: Do the "fix my screen option"


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This happens when a panel is overclocked the easy way and all you do is set it to a higher frequency rather than optimizing the pixel clock. It will go away after a while because like iwasaperson said it is NOT burn in it is color retention.
> Also this website works very well. And i suggest getting a quicker screensaver or screen timeout if you don't optimize it.
> http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html
> EDIT: Do the "fix my screen option"


Interesting, some time ago when i posted about this no one knew how to fix this. How do you know what to set the pixel clock to?


----------



## Kwisatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwasaperson*
> 
> If I grab a non pixel perfect Qnix Gloosy from dream-seller with a 3-year SquareTrade warranty, and it has a dead pixel, what do I do? Note that this is theoretical.


Believe me, it is not dead/stuck pixels you should be afraid of. I got one at the top right corner and I can only see it when I test for faulty pixels with a white screen and I really have to make an effort too. So far I've only seen one guy who had a cloud of stuck pixels that would really be noticable in every day use.
The thing you have to be afraid of is BLB! I was unlucky as I got a screen that was pretty much unusable after nightfall as the biggets part of it was flooded with light. It was very nasty. The tape mod fixed most of it though. Anyway, I wouldn't waste my money on the scam that PIXEL PERFECT is, but rather write a personal message to the seller, telling him he'd get an extra 20 bucks if my screen had only minor BLB.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Interesting, some time ago when i posted about this no one knew how to fix this. How do you know what to set the pixel clock to?


I know by reading the way i have learned a few things(sorry couldn't resist). There has been a good deal of material in this thread regarding this but it has been recent(maybe earlier than some time ago?). If you search "front porch" or "custom timings"there is a good deal of info regarding lowering the resulting side effects of overclocking and how to effectively lower the pixel clock to lighten these side effects in the thread now. Some good starting points would also be to search in the catleap thread, this thread and take a look at the CRU thread as well(since it is the primary and most effective tool for doing this).

Essentially you need to know what each monitor timing setting actually does and how it effects the overclock(mainly the total pixel count but other do apply). With this you can benchmark the pixel clock in a negative since gauging the resulting image stability using some of the several previously mentioned test tools(powerstrip, UFOtest, refreshrate multitool). This will help to lessen the overall stress of data going over the cable which is what causes overclock side effects in PLS panels(very probably all panels to a certain degree).

After knowing a bit of what you are doing it is very easy and only takes a little time and effort(unless you start trying different cables, ports, drivers, etc) and will result in significantly less predominant side effects(no more panel uniformity issues, color retention, flickering, the occasional green line)

So do a search, read, test and let us know how it turns out.


----------



## fpunch

Does anyone have any opinion of this seller: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130922075493&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123?

He hasn't sold many of these monitors, probably due to the price, but I contacted him, and his pixel perfect policy is truly a pixel perfect policy, not 0-2 but 0, at least in his own words. I'm very sensitive to stuff like dead or defective pixels, even if they are hardly noticeable, so I could pay premium to guarantee there aren't any.


----------



## Gregar Forte

Hi there, I have a question to ask.Is there a difference between X-Star DP2710 and Qnix QX2710? I can get the X-Star DP2710 at approximately 182.20 USD with 6 month warranty while the Qnix one at 345.60 USD. thanks for reply


----------



## MorroWest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregar Forte*
> 
> Is there a difference between X-Star DP2710 and Qnix QX2710?


First post in thread has all needed info.

Q: Should I buy an X-star or Qnix (Which one overclock better?)
A: Short answer: Choose whichever one you want.
Long answer: They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability.


----------



## Kwisatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fpunch*
> 
> Does anyone have any opinion of this seller: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130922075493&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123?
> 
> He hasn't sold many of these monitors, probably due to the price, but I contacted him, and his pixel perfect policy is truly a pixel perfect policy, not 0-2 but 0, at least in his own words. I'm very sensitive to stuff like dead or defective pixels, even if they are hardly noticeable, so I could pay premium to guarantee there aren't any.


I got mine from him. He ships pretty fast, I had mine within five workdays, so that's a plus. One stuck pixel in the upper right corner, which isn't bothering me (I purchased non-pixel perfect). I have to complain about the horrendous back light bleed though! If the tape mod hadn't fixed it (or most of it) I'd have sent the monitr back. It does say 100% tested on the ebay site and there was a letter inside the box from assecorieswhole, but, quite frankly, if a monitor with that amount of blb gets through "testing" I wouldn't give a crap on that garantuee.
That was just my personal experience though and probably some bad luck, generally I haven't read any complaints about him and he also responds very fast. I'd say, go for it, but save the money and don't go for pixel perfect.

edit: I got a x-star, but seeing as there are near to no differences between these two brands I think my input might still be relevant.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwasaperson*
> 
> Is there any way to guarantee a pixel perfect monitor? I heard even the pixel perfects can still have dead pixels.


No. Every monitor has the possibility of having or developing dead or stuck pixels.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

This is a question for people out there who like to wear their "tin foil hats".

It is widely rumored that Apple will be launching a 4k display alongside of their new Mac Pro this Fall 2013.

This display would still be some sort of IPS/PLS manufactured by either LG or Samsung, and I'm assuming the B grade panels would still be picked up by Korean vendors and turned into a new breed of 3840x2160 Qnix/X-Star/whatever monitors.

I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea how this might affect the price of these current 1440p monitors, and how much the rebranded 4k monitors might cost.

Obviously nobody can know for sure, but I'm interested in hearing people's opinions.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> This is a question for people out there who like to wear their "tin foil hats".
> 
> It is widely rumored that Apple will be launching a 4k display alongside of their new Mac Pro this Fall 2013.
> 
> This display would still be some sort of IPS/PLS manufactured by either LG or Samsung, and I'm assuming the B grade panels would still be picked up by Korean vendors and turned into a new breed of 3840x2160 Qnix/X-Star/whatever monitors.
> 
> I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea how this might affect the price of these current 1440p monitors, and how much the rebranded 4k monitors might cost.
> 
> Obviously nobody can know for sure, but I'm interested to hear people's opinions.


I don't see any possible way that these 1440p panels drop much lower than the 259.99 that the xstars were at last week, I'd say 240-250 would be the absolute bottom, IMO


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I thought they'd be going up if anything. The IPS ones did.


----------



## fpunch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> I got mine from him. He ships pretty fast, I had mine within five workdays, so that's a plus. One stuck pixel in the upper right corner, which isn't bothering me (I purchased non-pixel perfect). I have to complain about the horrendous back light bleed though! If the tape mod hadn't fixed it (or most of it) I'd have sent the monitr back. It does say 100% tested on the ebay site and there was a letter inside the box from assecorieswhole, but, quite frankly, if a monitor with that amount of blb gets through "testing" I wouldn't give a crap on that garantuee.
> That was just my personal experience though and probably some bad luck, generally I haven't read any complaints about him and he also responds very fast. I'd say, go for it, but save the money and don't go for pixel perfect.
> 
> edit: I got a x-star, but seeing as there are near to no differences between these two brands I think my input might still be relevant.


Good info, thanks. If I were to go for non pixel perfect, I would probably go for the cheaper ones because more than 1 defective pixels is the same as 1 for me.

Need to ponder some more though this old 22'' 1680x1050 monitor is starting to get on my nerves.


----------



## XCII

Just ordered a qnix from amazon.

Do I need any type of power adapter to use it?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCII*
> 
> Just ordered a qnix from amazon.
> 
> Do I need any type of power adapter to use it?


I also got mine through Amazon and it came with the appropriate power adapter. I recall that another user on this forum did not get an adapter so be prepared to run out and grab one at an international travel supply store if they forget yours.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCII*
> 
> Just ordered a qnix from amazon.
> 
> Do I need any type of power adapter to use it?


It should come with a Korean to U.S. plug adapter, however it will accept the standard power plug that almost every power supply and monitor have used for years. I would recommend using a spare PSU/Monitor plug rather than using the included adapter.

But no you do not NEED anything extra, it should come with everthing required to power on as well as a DVI-D cable


----------



## XCII

Thanks. What exactly would I need to get if they do not provide one?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Dude the power brick just takes a regular PC power cable like he said which you surely have lying around...you don't need or want to use any adapter in the first place. Just plug said reg cable into the convertor like you have with many other components you've owned.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Dude the power brick just takes a regular PC power cable like he said which you surely have lying around...you don't need or want to use any adapter in the first place. Just plug said reg cable into the convertor like you have with many other components you've owned.


We're referring to the power converter for Korean -> US plugs. I believe this is the type of plug you need an adapter for: http://electricaloutlet.org/type-f

Again, it should come with one but if not you should be able to find one for cheap.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

I'm looking to run a second Qnix. I have the first hooked up via Dual-Link DVI-D.

My card has:
1 Dual-Link DVI-D out (in use)
1 Dual-Link DVI-I out
1 HDMI out
1 DisplayPort out

I'm assuming I will need an "Active DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI-D" cable to run the second?

If I am correct, I think the required cable to power 2 of these displays simultaneously is pretty expensive. Does anyone have any cheap cable recommendations that would allow me to run 2 of these displays?

Hopefully I'm wrong!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> I'm looking to run a second Qnix. I have the first hooked up via Dual-Link DVI-D. My card has 1 Dual-Link DVI-D out (in use), 1 Dual-Link DVI-I out, 1 HDMI out, and 1 Displayport out.
> 
> I'm assuming I will need an "Active DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI-D" cable to run the second?
> 
> If I am correct, I think the required cable to power 2 of these displays simultaneously is pretty expensive. Does anyone have any cheap cable recommendations that would allow me to run 2 of these displays?
> 
> Hopefully I'm wrong!


Which card do you have? At first glance, you shouldn't need any adapters of any sort.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCII*
> 
> Thanks. What exactly would I need to get if they do not provide one?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> I'm looking to run a second Qnix. I have the first hooked up via Dual-Link DVI-D. My card has 1 Dual-Link DVI-D out (in use), 1 Dual-Link DVI-I out, 1 HDMI out, and 1 Displayport out.
> 
> I'm assuming I will need an "Active DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI-D" cable to run the second?
> 
> If I am correct, I think the required cable to power 2 of these displays simultaneously is pretty expensive. Does anyone have any cheap cable recommendations that would allow me to run 2 of these displays?
> 
> Hopefully I'm wrong!


The Dual-Link DVI-I out port should work fine. The only difference between DVI-I and DVI-D is that -I also contains analog signal for converting to a VGA connector.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> The Dual-Link DVI-I out port should work fine. The only difference between DVI-I and DVI-D is that -I also contains analog signal for converting to a VGA connector.


Okay, great!

So one Qnix with Dual Link DVI-D and the other with Dual Link DVI-I would work simultaneously?

Would I then be able to power a third 1080p display via HDMI? Or am I then getting into the realm of Eyefinity/Surround and would then need some sort of Active Adapter for three displays?

And kevinsbane, its a Gigabyte GTX 760

Thanks for the help!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Okay, great!
> 
> So one Qnix with Dual Link DVI-D and the other with Dual Link DVI-I would work simultaneously?
> 
> Would I then be able to power a third 1080p display via HDMI? Or am I then getting into the realm of Eyefinity/Surround and would then need some sort of Active Adapter for three displays?
> 
> And kevinsbane, its a Gigabyte GTX 760
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Your GTX 760 will power 2x Qnix at 1440p on your two DL-DVI ports and another 1080p via HDMI just fine. AMD's HD 6xxx and 7xxx series only ship with a single DL-DVI port, hence my initial reservation.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Your GTX 760 will power 2x Qnix at 1440p on your two DL-DVI ports and another 1080p via HDMI just fine. AMD's HD 6xxx and 7xxx series only ship with a single DL-DVI port, hence my initial reservation.


Awesome, thanks!


----------



## jagz

So these qnix's OC quite nicely? I'm jelly, my Crossover does not. I have never seen anything above 60hz (on a computer screen anyway).. I know it's one of those things once you go 90-120hz there is no going back.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCII*
> 
> Thanks. What exactly would I need to get if they do not provide one?


http://www.tmart.com/UK-to-US-Power-Plug-Converter-Adapter_p121985.html

I would be surprised if they forgot to include that, though.


----------



## Analog

I'm thinking about buying a qnix but I have a couple questions.

Does the hdmi version overclock at all? Would a xbox work on the hdmi version?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Analog*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a qnix but I have a couple questions.
> 
> Does the hdmi version overclock at all? Would a xbox work on the hdmi version?


No, HDMI versions do not overclock. Yes, Xbox would work on the HDMI version.


----------



## ColdFlo

Sniggleface wriglyvillian was right and you were wrong and entirely too many posts were wasted talking about the cord again. Sniggleface just sit there and figure out how you were wrong don't post about it again...... The korean power cord plugs into the power brick the same way an american(/your country) power cord plugs into the power brick just switch the part after the power brick from korean to american(or whatever country). Everyone that uses computers has an extra one lying around. You new posters need to realize that regulars on this thread know what they are talking about and just because it doesnt penetrate that "I'm always right" thick skull of yours doesn't mean they are just making suggestions to you that are up for debate. It's topics that have been covered over and over again and they are THE LAW and you are a fool to question them......... I hope that puts it into perspective for the thick skulls out there. Or keep putting your foot in your own mouth..... up to you...... just makes you look bad to everyone. Can't have you continuing on in the thread without even realizing your mistakes................... Sniggle yes everyone does have those power cords. Nothing is wrong with my day there are just too many people that come in this thread that are new and tell people they are wrong when they are wrong(tough if they never realize it) frankly I'm tired of them and I know I'm not the only one I'm just the only one that will say something about it.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCII*
> 
> Thanks. What exactly would I need to get if they do not provide one?


You do not need an adapter at all.

Take any power cord like the one you plug into your PSU or monitor and plug it directly into the power brick and it will work fine. Adapter is totally unnecessary, don't stress


----------



## zazzn

Hi guys,

About a year ago I bought a ShiMain and I wanted to add 2 more 27" monitors to match the ShiMian.

I'm looking at getting the Qnix's or X-star whatever is cheapest seem to be 320 each now on e-bay for DVI only.

I believe if I get one with the card that drives the monitors I can't OC the HZ correct? It looks like my ShiMain can't do over 60 anyways so it's not a big issue. What worries me is I will probably have to get one monitor with DP since I have a 780GTX.

Does this sound right?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> Sniggleface wriglyvillian was right and you were wrong and entirely too many posts were wasted talking about the cord again. Sniggleface just sit there and figure out how you were wrong don't post about it again...... The korean power cord plugs into the power brick the same way an american(/your country) power cord plugs into the power brick just switch the part after the power brick from korean to american(or whatever country). Everyone that uses computers has an extra one lying around. You new posters need to realize that regulars on this thread know what they are talking about and just because it doesnt penetrate that "I'm always right" thick skull of yours doesn't mean they are just making suggestions to you that are up for debate. It's topics that have been covered over and over again and they are THE LAW and you are a fool to question them......... I hope that puts it into perspective for the thick skulls out there. Or keep putting your foot in your own mouth..... up to you...... just makes you look bad to everyone. Can't have you continuing on in the thread without even realizing your mistakes...................


Take it easy, deep breaths... All I'm trying to do is be helpful on this forum. You are correct about that standard power cable being usable, but not everyone has spare cables laying around. It might be easier for this person to get the adapter if they have a store nearby that sells these international power adapters for cheap, since a lot of local computer stores close down these days. I'm simply pointing out what could be acquired if the adapter was not included.

Hope your day gets better!


----------



## 6steven9

Anyone know anything about that feature on ASROCK boards the "hdmi-in" that says you can hook up a console to the motherboard and then you can switch which thing uses the monitor ie. ps3 or computer?? Reason I ask is when I build my computer I want to move my ps3 or ps4 to the computer desk and use the monitor to game on but I know the monitors with just dvi-d don't work, would this "hdmi in" feature allow me to use the x-star which would be connected via dvi-d connect with the console if it's connected to hdmi in port??


----------



## ColdFlo

Ok someone that has had time to nail down the most important chip the EXPLORE EP269(this is why the dvi cable matters so much(signaling voltage to this chip and explains our 110hz hurdle we are seeing evidence of) good deal only took 3 months and 600 pages of posts to get this basic information down that should have been documented in the first break down and pics taken of all the boards with a hi-resolution camera, but hey I don't suppose we are all noobs or anything. LOL. Yes, even I failed to do this but I'm busy and I haven't even unbox my camera yet and don't know how to use it and I had to put my monitor back together before it was attacked with dust or I lost screws. The other chips we stil need datasheets for are the Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q Chips on the inverter board. I thought they were Wise Semiconductor and shot an email to US offices but they claim they only make OLED monitors(just assembly? actual panel? who knows........) and have nothing to do with these chips. In my searches another make designation that keeps coming up for these chips that makes similar packages and function chips is Novatek. Maybe novatek is the manufacturer. To be honest I've been busy lately and still haven't ordered copper shims to cool these(inverter chips) until I'm fully sinked I'm not gonna go above 80hz. I put a sink on EXPLORE EP269 http://www.epmi.com.tw/news.php?id=102 (manufacturer site providing 450M pixelclock limit) but we should probably get the datasheet(possible overvolt/ pencil resistors? who knows.....). Monitor functions with more snap at tighter timings all monitors should be tweaked in this way... especially LCDS.
To be honest I think with some volt modding cooling everyone should be able to get 120hz. Before I bought this monitor I threw the club spreadsheet into excel and found the 120hz achievement rate to be very acceptable at 48%(0.565217391 for QNIX owners)(112.1565217(QNIX) average clock 112.1642857(STDEV 13.70690668)(both monitors together old numbers more QNIX samples than X-Star graphy of QNIX more aggressively 120 probably because of more aggressive clocking owners 115(QNIX) vs 25(X-Star)), 73% stated no dead pixels(QNIX)),with most of the failers being hardware/tweaking inept or scared of everything types because they have no experience(which is the reason I try to hammer some men with balls out of this wussy thread(not everybody just most of you younger generation types which I have names for that you would delete cuz <<<<<<<<)). Anyway finally some real hardware progress worthy of an overclocking forum...... Volt modding could also be able to fix the gamma problem and is probably a result of either panel limitation or the fine voltage stepping is reduced at high frequency interfering with each pixels grey scale or the switch rate of the Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q Chips but we are getting closer. Someone should also finger test(run panel on without destroying or shorting your panel and touching all the electronic components in the interior to see which ones get hot then take high resolution pictures and circle the hot components. We also need a guide on this rolling pin black light bleed fix with before and after proof.


----------



## zazzn

So i'm a little lost because I only went though the last 10 pages. I didn't really want to go through 570+ pages.

Are you saying that you people are now buying a controller and swapping out the ones in the monitor to drive them higher? I though the monitors don't have a controller if they are DVI only and the controller was only needed if you used the DP or HDMI, at which point you wouldn't get anything past 60HZ.

help?


----------



## RemagCP

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> Ok someone that has had time to nail down the most important chip the EXPLORE EP269(this is why the dvi cable matters so much(signaling voltage to this chip and explains our 110hz hurdle we are seeing evidence of) good deal only took 3 months and 600 posts to get this basic information down that should have been documented in the first break down and pics taken of all the boards with a hi-resolution camera, but hey I don't suppose we are all noobs or anything. LOL. Yes, even I failed to do this but I'm busy and I haven't even unbox my camera yet and don't know how to use it and I had to put my monitor back together before it was attacked with dust or I lost screws. The other chips we stil need datasheets for are the Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q Chips on the inverter board. I thought they were Wise Semiconductor and shot an email to US offices but they claim they only make OLED monitors(just assembly? actual panel? who knows........) and have nothing to do with these chips. In my searches another make designation that keeps coming up for this chips that makes similar packages and function chips is Novatek. Maybe novatek is the manufacturer. To be honest I've been busy lately and still haven't ordered copper shims to cool these(inverter chips) until I'm fully sinked I'm not gonna go above 80hz. I put a sink on EXPLORE EP269 http://www.epmi.com.tw/news.php?id=102 (manufacturer site providing 450M pixelclock limit) but we should probably get the datasheet(possible overvolt/ pencil resistors? who knows.....). Monitor functions with more snap at tighter timings all monitors should be tweaked in this way... especially LCDS.
> To be honest I think with some volt modding cooling everyone should be able to get 120hz. Before I bought this monitor I threw the club spreadsheet into excel and found the 120hz achievement rate to be very acceptable at 75%+ with most of the failers being hardware/tweaking inept or scared of everything types because they have no experience(which is the reason I try to hammer some men with balls out of this wussy thread(not everybody just most of you younger generation types which I have names for that you would delete cuz <<<<<<<<)). Anyway finally some real hardware progress worthy of an overclocking forum...... Volt modding could also be able to fix the gamma problem and is probably a result of either panel limitation or the fine voltage stepping is reduced at high frequency interfering with each pixels grey scale or the switch rate of the Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q Chips but we are getting closer. Someone should also finger test(run panel on without destroying or shorting your panel and touching all the electronic components in the interior to see which ones get hot then take high resolution pictures and circle the hot components. We also need a guide on this rolling pin black light bleed fix with before and after proof.






My only problem messing with this stuff is the life expectancy, having to replace a $280 monitor would kinda suuuuuck.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> So i'm a little lost because I only went though the last 10 pages. I didn't really want to go through 570+ pages.
> 
> Are you saying that you people are now buying a controller and swapping out the ones in the monitor to drive them higher? I though the monitors don't have a controller if they are DVI only and the controller was only needed if you used the DP or HDMI, at which point you wouldn't get anything past 60HZ.
> 
> help?


You certainly do not have to do this, it's just speculation as to whether it's possible/helpful. If you get one of these monitors, out of the box your chances of hitting 96hz are quite good. Check out the OP for a breakdown of what refresh rates are generally achieved.


----------



## milan616

Ordered one from Green-sum on Thursday, got it today!


----------



## 187x

I noticed a little bit of burn in I have been having my monitor overclocked for about almost 3 weeks now, you can see it a little bit when you shut it down like a faint outline of the white text of the rain meter skin. I'm sure it will go away if I leave the monitor off for awhile. I was gaming for about 4 hours today room was kinda hot I left the monitor idling for a little bit. I was wondering what causes burn in?


----------



## Karnoffel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I noticed a little bit of burn in I have been having my monitor overclocked for about almost 3 weeks now, you can see it a little bit when you shut it down like a faint outline of the white text of the rain meter skin. I'm sure it will go away if I leave the monitor off for awhile. I was gaming for about 4 hours today room was kinda hot I left the monitor idling for a little bit. I was wondering what causes burn in?


Reverting the monitor back to 60hz when you're not using it/leaving it idle from time to time should prevent the burn in.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karnoffel*
> 
> Reverting the monitor back to 60hz when you're not using it/leaving it idle from time to time should prevent the burn in.


Yeah I always revert it back to 60hz when I'm not gaming.

Update: Everything is good now the burn in has totally went away.


----------



## axiqa

Got my QX2710 from green-sum in over the weekend. No dead pixels, minor BLB in the lower corners, pretty satisfied for $269 so far. Oc'ed to 110hz stable but dropped down to 96hz for the time being.



Opened it up, removed the old stand, and replaced the stand with a monitor arm from Monoprice almost immediately. Makes my 23" monitors look tiny


----------



## thekamikazepr

I'm having issues OC'img the Qnix I have it patch with the "nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2" and I have the CRU set up to 75hz (and is above the 59 default)

I copied and paste the settings then modified the refresh rate like mention.

I rebooted PC between each change and after.. I have attempt this 3 times and even look up a video in you tube.

If i go to the nvidia control panel it only gives me the 60hz option. through the os "screen resolution>advanced " I have 59 and 60.

The driver is UPNP Generic I tried installing the catleap like in the link from toastyx but the results: " you currently have the best driver available"

Not sure what else to try.

I have a gtx 680-


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekamikazepr*
> 
> I'm having issues OC'img the Qnix I have it patch with the "nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2" and I have the CRU set up to 75hz (and is above the 59 default)
> 
> I copied and paste the settings then modified the refresh rate like mention.
> 
> I rebooted PC between each change and after.. I have attempt this 3 times and even look up a video in you tube.
> 
> If i go to the nvidia control panel it only gives me the 60hz option. through the os "screen resolution>advanced " I have 59 and 60.
> 
> The driver is UPNP Generic I tried installing the catleap like in the link from toastyx but the results: " you currently have the best driver available"
> 
> Not sure what else to try.
> 
> I have a gtx 680-


Did you uncheck "Include extension block" in CRU? When you run nvlddmkm-patcher again, does it say the files are already patched?


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> No, HDMI versions do not overclock. Yes, Xbox would work on the HDMI version.


How does everyone know that the HDMI version doesn't OC? I don't think many have purchased it. Wouldn't it depend on whether the DVI-Dual Link interacted with the scaler or not?


----------



## TheSilentCircus

Man....BEST INVESTMENT EVER!

No dead pixels...I can't wait to overclock this....honestly at 260 dollars free shipping no tax...holy crap is all I can say, coming from a 24" HDTV for my monitor to this is ludicrous.











I was worried about the condition of the box but man it was luckily perfect inside.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> How does everyone know that the HDMI version doesn't OC? I don't think many have purchased it. Wouldn't it depend on whether the DVI-Dual Link interacted with the scaler or not?


Because it's been tested, and found wanting. I don't have the energy to find the specific post in this thread or the other where someone tests it, and it disappoints. I do know that it's not just the Qnix, but _no_ multi input monitor has ever, ever overclocked.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Because it's been tested, and found wanting. I don't have the energy to find the specific post in this thread or the other where someone tests it, and it disappoints. I do know that it's not just the Qnix, but _no_ multi input monitor has ever, ever overclocked.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/5750#post_20623341

So then how did this guy buy the "MDP" version of the X-star and achieve stable OC at 120Hz?


----------



## TrevJonez

Just opened up 1 of 3 new x-star pixel perfect screens from dream seller.

I have to say this display is jaw dropping. I've never used a 1440 screen let alone a screen faster than 60hz. perfect OC at 96hz and while yes the color is a bit darker i plan to calibrate using a color monkey device.

best purchase ever.

no dead pixels as they advertised. and to top it all off. absolutely 0 back light bleed. Best part is that the box was beat to hell with a nice hole in the bottom corner. But korea to utah in only 3 days. you can't beat that!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/5750#post_20623341
> 
> So then how did this guy buy the "MDP" version of the X-star and achieve stable OC at 120Hz?


He doesn't have the multi input version. He has an Xstar DP2710.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> He doesn't have the multi input version. He has an Xstar DP2710.


Well, the box it came in is clearly labeled as the MDP version, so that's why I'm asking. I'll PM the poster.


----------



## BruinBears

Just got mine today and it seems to have pretty bad backlight bleed.
Is this within the norm or should I see if they will swap?



This one is at full brightness, Has some yellowish and blueish tinting


----------



## combatant3219

Honestly that looks about normal to me and pretty good compared to other examples. I'm sure you'll barely notice that in use.

Mine has some backlight bleed that is a bit worse than yours (worst in the bottom right corner). Initially I didn't really notice it until I was sitting in a dark room with a dark screen when gaming etc, so I'll probably do the tape mod when I remove the stand and mount on my monitor arm.


----------



## BruinBears

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combatant3219*
> 
> Honestly that looks about normal to me. I'm pretty sure you'll barely notice that in use.
> 
> Mine has some backlight bleed that is a bit worse than yours (worst in the bottom right corner). Initially I didn't really notice it until I was sitting in a dark room with a dark screen when gaming etc, so I'll probably do the tape mod when I remove the stand and mount on my monitor arm.


Yeah i mostly notice it in dark games and especially watching movies that letterbox at the top and bottom. I think i will try the tape fix when i remove the base as well.


----------



## apav

I just remembered, I've had my QNIX since April, sent it to SquareTrade last month and got a new one. Never once did I register either monitor!







So here is my official signup post!



147hz is my highest stable, at 148hz my screen gets dark and really shaky, and it gets progressively worse the higher I go. 155hz is my limit. I'm keeping it at 120hz though









One stuck (red) pixel in bottom left corner, barely noticeable. Also have one "malfunctioning" pixel (acts different from a stuck or dead pixel), and this screen flicker when I OC (though it appears to be different from scan lines). Just greatly reduced the flicker by plugging in the cable to my DVI-D port on my gpu instead of my DVI-I.

For more info on my issues, please see here. Issues aside, dang this thing can overclock.


----------



## Ironsight

Alright I have a few points to make after using the x-star monitor after a couple of weeks.

Initially I got the monitor to run at 120hz without any problems, except I would get random weird blue or green horizontal lines flashing across the screen when blacks were displayed.
Google says it could be the video card or the monitor. I happen to use an SLI setup so I decided to switch around the video cards and now it runs at 120hz with no blue/green horizontal flashing lines. I suppose the DVI output on one card is faulty.

I also noticed that after using the patcher/cru utility to o/c the monitor DO NOT set the refresh rate using the nvidia control panel. Everytime I used that all my games acted buggy. Always right click desktop > screen resolution > advanced settings > monitor and change it there.

As for adjusting the gamma after overclocking, if you youtube search "quick gamma" it'll show you a tutorial that uses quick gamma to calibrate your monitor fast and easy.

I have also noticed "burn in" or "screen persistence" at 120hz that does go away after a while but everyone should be aware and do their best to prevent it.

I hope this helps some people out!


----------



## Swolern

Has anyone seen or have any good 7680x1440 wallpaper for these monitors? My searches are scarce.


----------



## BruinBears

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsight*
> 
> Alright I have a few points to make after using the x-star monitor after a couple of weeks.
> 
> Initially I got the monitor to run at 120hz without any problems, except I would get random weird blue or green horizontal lines flashing across the screen when blacks were displayed.
> Google says it could be the video card or the monitor. I happen to use an SLI setup so I decided to switch around the video cards and now it runs at 120hz with no blue/green horizontal flashing lines. I suppose the DVI output on one card is faulty.
> 
> I also noticed that after using the patcher/cru utility to o/c the monitor DO NOT set the refresh rate using the nvidia control panel. Everytime I used that all my games acted buggy. Always right click desktop > screen resolution > advanced settings > monitor and change it there.
> 
> As for adjusting the gamma after overclocking, if you youtube search "quick gamma" it'll show you a tutorial that uses quick gamma to calibrate your monitor fast and easy.
> 
> I have also noticed "burn in" or "screen persistence" at 120hz that does go away after a while but everyone should be aware and do their best to prevent it.
> 
> I hope this helps some people out!


Mine does the same thing when running at 120Hz, flashing colored horizontal lines.

Perfectly smooth when i drop down to 110Hz though.


----------



## Ghost12

Subbed. Just clicked buy on the Qnix model, a little apprehensive regards quality and the issue regards customs and delivery but will now just wait patiently, well not patiently at all lol.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BruinBears*
> 
> Mine does the same thing when running at 120Hz, flashing colored horizontal lines.
> 
> Perfectly smooth when i drop down to 110Hz though.


I'm experiencing something different.
I've recently changed my wallpaper to a solid and minimalstic color(a shade of brown) and I've noticed horizontal flickering lines in the top right corner. I've figured out it's my OC since they were gone after dropping from 96 Hz back to the default 60 Hz.
Moreover, it appears that part of the screen becomes slightly darker when flickering happens(it can be described as pixels constantly shifting from bright to dark, no color change such as green or blue can be observed as others have mentioned). It's only noticeable when viewing static, solid and rather bright images/colors so it doesn't concern me that much but I'm still curious. Has anybody experienced it?


----------



## DiceAir

new Nvidia drivers.

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/geforce_326_60_beta_driver_download.html


----------



## thekamikazepr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> Did you uncheck "Include extension block" in CRU? When you run nvlddmkm-patcher again, does it say the files are already patched?


Updated driver and reapply patch and "uncheked" include extension, i think the uncheck was my error thanks


----------



## Roybattius

I'm having a weird freezing problem with nvidia pixel clock patcher on 326.41 beta drivers.
I applied the nvidia-pixel-clock-patcher, and overclocked the monitor to 96hz. I'm on Haswell 4770K (not overclocked right now) and have a single GTX 780 running driver 326.41 on Windows 8 Enterprise 64-bit. I've noticed a strange issue. After a while, I start getting window freezes for a split second, second or two. But the interesting thing is that the mouse isn't frozen, just the windows. After rebooting, the problem seems to go away for a bit, but always comes back (especially after waking up from sleep). I unpatched the driver and I haven't seen the problem.


----------



## exzacklyright

Been running 120Hz nonstop. Only thing that bothers me is 1 stuck green pixel :[ (I tried all the methods for trying to fix it)

I have BLB in bottom right as well but the guide to fix it is too vague for me.


----------



## Iggg

I bought 3 of these qnix from dreamseller last month and now Just received an invoice from fedex for $60 for import duties.

Any of you guys got this?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiqa*
> 
> Got my QX2710 from green-sum in over the weekend. No dead pixels, minor BLB in the lower corners, pretty satisfied for $269 so far. Oc'ed to 110hz stable but dropped down to 96hz for the time being.
> 
> 
> 
> Opened it up, removed the old stand, and replaced the stand with a monitor arm from Monoprice almost immediately. Makes my 23" monitors look tiny


Would you mind sharing what stand you are using? Or would anyone have any advice? I think I'm looking to buy two SINGLE monitor stands for 2 Qnixs. I'd like to avoid a dual-monitor arm.

I have read the OP, and I've looked at the HP replacement stand mentioned, and unfortunately I cant find it for sale anywhere anymore. It seemed perfectly fine for my needs, tilt, swivel, height, etc. And it was under $30.

I'm looking to only spend around $20-$30 per replacement stand.

I've found a monoprice stand here: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

On one hand it says it can support 33 pounds, on the other, it says it only accepts up to 23" displays.

Anyone have any updated recommendations for cheap replacement monitor stands?


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Would you mind sharing what stand you are using? Or would anyone have any advice? I think I'm looking to buy two SINGLE monitor stands for 2 Qnixs. I'd like to avoid a dual-monitor arm.
> 
> I have read the OP, and I've looked at the HP replacement stand mentioned, and unfortunately I cant find it for sale anywhere anymore. It seemed perfectly fine for my needs, tilt, swivel, height, etc. And it was under $30.
> 
> I'm looking to only spend around $20-$30 per replacement stand.
> 
> I've found a monoprice stand here: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 
> On one hand it says it can support 33 pounds, on the other, it says it only accepts up to 23" displays.
> 
> Anyone have any updated recommendations for cheap replacement monitor stands?


I have that exact stand, though purchased through Amazon. It's fine but with a couple caveats. You need to use two different included allen wrenches to adjust tilt sensitivity and height, but if you're not adjusting much then it's not a big deal. The other problem is that the included VESA screws were too long. In order to get a fairly tight mount I had to put some padding between the mount and the back of the monitor. Aside from those issues it's working fine, so for the price it's definitely worth considering.


----------



## Doofus McGwire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doofus McGwire*
> 
> Ordered two 760s last night (upgrading from 6950 CF) at a cost of $550 with a Splinter Cell: Blacklist code thrown in.
> With all the great looking AAAs coming out over the next 6-9 months, I wanted a nice sexy 1440 monitor to boot, but the cheapest model I found was $559 (ASUS on Amazon)...until this thread.
> 
> After blowing off a conference call and reading damn near 100 pages, this morning (Thurs) I ordered the QNIX 27" via Amazon reseller EcoMadeArena for $309 and free shipping. Should be here some time (Tues-Thurs). For non-gaming stuff, I'll have two 1080p flanking the QNIX...all three mounted on an Ergomonitor stand.
> 
> Can't wait to sneak up and stab fools in SC:B at 1440p!
> Thank you everyone for all the great info!
> 
> I'll follow-up after delivery.
> 
> Dear God...it's already shipping.


QNIX arrived (east coast U.S.) on Monday afternoon in great condition (order it the previous Thurs afternoon). No damage to any surface or corner of the box&#8230;barely any scuffs neither. Connection was very basic as described by others. No dead pixels! I do have bleeding though from each of the bottom corners. I will work to address this once I understand the BLB solution more. So now my new set-up has the QNIX flanked by dual Asus 23 inchers.

The QNIX picture is great! I immediately DL'd five wallpapers, put them in rotation and just sat back and stared at them (through teary eyes) for about 4-5 minutes. Truly spectacular! I hope to order two more before Batman:AO and BF4 debut in October&#8230;if not, certainly as Christmas presents to myself.

My twin Gigabyte 4MB 760's came in on Saturday, and I will work on OC'ing them before I try to OC my QNIX. I ran just one bench late last night, so here it is OOTB.



I have no idea if this is good, so I'll join the 760 club and see how it compares.
Played some Splinter Cell: Conviction last night and it looked pretty good. As soon as I get my activation code for SC: Black List then I'll try that out too before doing some BF3 MP as well this evening. Overall, I'm very pleased! More info to come.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> I have that exact stand, though purchased through Amazon. It's fine but with a couple caveats. You need to use two different included allen wrenches to adjust tilt sensitivity and height, but if you're not adjusting much then it's not a big deal. The other problem is that the included VESA screws were too long. In order to get a fairly tight mount I had to put some padding between the mount and the back of the monitor. Aside from those issues it's working fine, so for the price it's definitely worth considering.


Okay, thanks! What type of padding did you use between the monitor and mount?

Also, just for lulz, does anyone have any recommended dual-monitor arms that would support two 27"s? I suspect it COULD be cheaper to just buy a dual-arm than buy two single stands for $20-$30 each

If I were to get a dual arm, I'd prefer it to have a stand, not clamp to the desk. Although I'm not sure how common that is

EDIT: It's a clamp arm, but this looks pretty appealing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052AWGLE/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000TSAV3E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0DK678T0QH3Q9RWM2YFQ

I'm thinking any arm that has to support two huge displays is gonna need to have a desk clamp


----------



## Doofus McGwire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsight*
> 
> Alright I have a few points to make after using the x-star monitor after a couple of weeks.
> 
> Initially I got the monitor to run at 120hz without any problems, except I would get random weird blue or green horizontal lines flashing across the screen when blacks were displayed.
> Google says it could be the video card or the monitor. I happen to use an SLI setup so I decided to switch around the video cards and now it runs at 120hz with no blue/green horizontal flashing lines. I suppose the DVI output on one card is faulty.
> 
> I also noticed that after using the patcher/cru utility to o/c the monitor DO NOT set the refresh rate using the nvidia control panel. Everytime I used that all my games acted buggy. Always right click desktop > screen resolution > advanced settings > monitor and change it there.
> 
> As for adjusting the gamma after overclocking, if you youtube search "quick gamma" it'll show you a tutorial that uses quick gamma to calibrate your monitor fast and easy.
> 
> I have also noticed "burn in" or "screen persistence" at 120hz that does go away after a while but everyone should be aware and do their best to prevent it.
> 
> I hope this helps some people out!


Good nuggets for when I start my tweaks. Thanks!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iggg*
> 
> I bought 3 of these qnix from dreamseller last month and now Just received an invoice from fedex for $60 for import duties.
> 
> Any of you guys got this?


If you live in the States or another country with a free trade w/ S Korea then there is no duty owed. IIRC one other American had to deal with this and ended up not having to pay.


----------



## milan616

Anyone looking to buy a Monoprice mount, employee discount sale happening. http://slickdeals.net/f/6229094-EMPLOYEE-DISCOUNT-at-Monoprice-com-on-EVERYTHING

My only problem is I still haven't decided which one I want!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> If you live in the States or another country with a free trade w/ S Korea then there is no duty owed. IIRC one other American had to deal with this and ended up not having to pay.


In Canada, you will be charged sales tax on the value of the monitors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> I'm experiencing something different.
> I've recently changed my wallpaper to a solid and minimalstic color(a shade of brown) and I've noticed horizontal flickering lines in the top right corner. I've figured out it's my OC since they were gone after dropping from 96 Hz back to the default 60 Hz.
> Moreover, it appears that part of the screen becomes slightly darker when flickering happens(it can be described as pixels constantly shifting from bright to dark, no color change such as green or blue can be observed as others have mentioned). It's only noticeable when viewing static, solid and rather bright images/colors so it doesn't concern me that much but I'm still curious. Has anybody experienced it?


This is a known issue that affects every overclocked Qnix/X-star to some extent or another. Panel uniformity is by far the biggest unfixable problem. Your panel will have its own limits.

You can mitigate this by tweaking your settings to achieve a lower pixel clock (Spartan F8 did quite a lot of tweaking there). This will also help reduce the chance of other panel artifacts such as lines or jitteriness that are also associated with overclocking the panel. However, the pixel clock at which your particular panel begins to darken/lose uniformity is, unfortunately, not something we can fix. The best we can do is to use that max pixel clock and squeeze everything we can out of it. If you need to go beyond this pixel clock to hit 120hz, then either you'll have to deal with bad uniformity, or you'll have to settle for <120hz operation.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iggg*
> 
> I bought 3 of these qnix from dreamseller last month and now Just received an invoice from fedex for $60 for import duties.
> 
> Any of you guys got this?


Where do you live? I got mine over a month ago and no invoice.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Subbed. Just clicked buy on the Qnix model, a little apprehensive regards quality and the issue regards customs and delivery but will now just wait patiently, well not patiently at all lol.


That's great man! I hope you enjoy your Qnix who did you buy it from? If you do get a lil BLB it's ok mine has a little BLB but it doesn't bother me as much as the monitor is hardly ever on a total black screen I also got rid of that wobbly stand and put a vesa mount. The panel it self is top quality.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I just remembered, I've had my QNIX since April, sent it to SquareTrade last month and got a new one. Never once did I register either monitor!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my official signup post!
> 
> 
> 
> 147hz is my highest stable, at 148hz my screen gets dark and really shaky, and it gets progressively worse the higher I go. 155hz is my limit. I'm keeping it at 120hz though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One stuck (red) pixel in bottom left corner, barely noticeable. Also have one "malfunctioning" pixel (acts different from a stuck or dead pixel), and this screen flicker when I OC (though it appears to be different from scan lines). Just greatly reduced the flicker by plugging in the cable to my DVI-D port on my gpu instead of my DVI-I.
> 
> For more info on my issues, please see here. Issues aside, dang this thing can overclock.


Wow that is a nice panel. I have never got mine to go above 153hz even with a lot of tweaking. Have you manually set timings yet and tried optimizing the pixel clock? If you did that on stock timings i am going to be pretty impressed.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Okay, thanks! What type of padding did you use between the monitor and mount?
> 
> Also, just for lulz, does anyone have any recommended dual-monitor arms that would support two 27"s? I suspect it COULD be cheaper to just buy a dual-arm than buy two single stands for $20-$30 each


I folded a piece of paper a bunch of times and just shoved it in there.







It's not really visible and the gap is just about a centimeter so it's not too bad.

I haven't personally tried any dual monitor arms, but it seems that even some arms that say 24" max could accommodate this screen weight-wise. Dual monitor is a bit trickier though since it might not have enough space between the mounts to fit dual 27's.


----------



## zazzn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSilentCircus*
> 
> Man....BEST INVESTMENT EVER!
> 
> No dead pixels...I can't wait to overclock this....honestly at 260 dollars free shipping no tax...holy crap is all I can say, coming from a 24" HDTV for my monitor to this is ludicrous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was worried about the condition of the box but man it was luckily perfect inside.


Who did you order from for 260?


----------



## fagoatse

Guys, does it matter which value(horizontal or vertical) is lower under total pixels? I'm trying to reduce panel uniformity and flickers and I've been wondering about it. Does it affect anything or it's pixel clock that matters? I noticed that if I go 1447 a blue line appears but it doesn't at 1448, should I aim for the lowers clock possible or there should be some headroom?


----------



## zazzn

So if I want a 3 monitor setup, I have to get a dp monitor correct since I'm using the 2 dual link dvi's on my 780 gtx. There for I won't be able to oc because the controller board for the hi/dp will not allow for oc and will introduce input lag... Correct?

Just going back to that post made a few pages back that was really long and talking about some of the controllers.... Also where is this thicker gauge wire that you guys are getting?

Finally the best price I see is 289 on eBay by sum green or what ever his name was. My last shimain was from bigcloth but he seems quite a bit more expensive now.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> Guys, does it matter which value(horizontal or vertical) is lower under total pixels? I'm trying to reduce panel uniformity and flickers and I've been wondering about it. Does it affect anything or it's pixel clock that matters? I noticed that if I go 1447 a blue line appears but it doesn't at 1448, should I aim for the lowers clock possible or there should be some headroom?


The total pixel count must be higher than active pixels. This is going to be the rendered pixels VS actual pixels. Getting the rendered pixels as close to actual pixels as possible is generally the best initial strategy the blue line is a break in pixel rendering where part of the pixel count in a vertical or horizontal is missing or rendered around. This is part of the conversion or render method that GPU's use to effectively display an image on the screen which is going to be different than the panel resolution. This is kinda similar to the difference between FPS and HZ. I am trying to find some links to documentation for you guys but it is an odd search because all the terms are too similar to other topics.


----------



## Iggg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> Where do you live? I got mine over a month ago and no invoice.


I live in the U.S.A


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iggg*
> 
> I live in the U.S.A


What did the seller value it at?

I would contact the seller then Fedex.


----------



## Iggg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> What did the seller value it at?
> 
> I would contact the seller then Fedex.


I bought 3 and he valued it at 280 each.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> The total pixel count must be higher than active pixels. This is going to be the rendered pixels VS actual pixels. Getting the rendered pixels as close to actual pixels as possible is generally the best initial strategy the blue line is a break in pixel rendering where part of the pixel count in a vertical or horizontal is missing or rendered around. This is part of the conversion or render method that GPU's use to effectively display an image on the screen which is going to be different than the panel resolution. This is kinda similar to the difference between FPS and HZ. I am trying to find some links to documentation for you guys but it is an odd search because all the terms are too similar to other topics.


Interesting, but as long as I stay way from 2560x1440 it should be fine right? That blue line also got me curious as it appeared on the bottom (so horizontal pixels) and yet it got fixed by increasing vertical. Im currently at 2644 x 1449 and everything seems to be well.

I've got another question, is there any benefit in using CRU as opposed to Nvidia CPL + Catleap inf driver? I'm only aiming at 96Hz which is easily achievable so I figured I don't need it.


----------



## Klopek

I've been reading a lot - hundreds - of pages from this thread.

I was set to buy a monitor when it suddenly hit me - what am I going to do about audio?

My current setup is HDMI through an amplifier which is passed through to a 1080p television. I've already tested and confirmed that I can connect the TV via DVI and still route audio via HDMI into the amplifier. However, Windows still treats the HDMI connection as a video output and it needs to be enabled (as if a second screen) in order to work. After researching. I understand that you cannot output audio only via HDMI.

Am I correct that I read somewhere in this giant thread that there are issues using the Qnix in a multi-display configuration if the other displays have different settings (i.e. resolution and refresh rate)? I'd like to clock the Qnix to 96Hz but fear that my 1080p 60Hz amp/TV will prevent this.

Using extended desktop is a pain because it creates a second screen (which isn't actually there) for the mouse to get lost on and it causes my GPU memory clock to lock at 1575Mhz instead of 150Mhz! The 'duplicate screen' option prevents both of these issues but is surely only available when the screen specs match?.

Am I completely out of luck if I want to carry on using HDMI for audio?


----------



## Paramount

finally i grab my Qnix in my hands








after long tour from Korea to UK then through EU to Turkey and iraq

















jumping from nasty LG E2240 with vga to that PLS 1440p is the biggest step to me in my hardware history
the agent is excellent castle cost me 309$ plus 110$ shipping for 420$ total price absolutely worth every cent
the colour look vivid and more nature ,no edge bleed in my eyes but i can capure little bleeding in the corners by Camera
also there is no dead pixel thanks God , love it so much and thanks guys for that thread


----------



## Paramount

Edit : double post


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klopek*
> 
> I've been reading a lot - hundreds - of pages from this thread.
> 
> I was set to buy a monitor when it suddenly hit me - what am I going to do about audio?
> 
> My current setup is HDMI through an amplifier which is passed through to a 1080p television. I've already tested and confirmed that I can connect the TV via DVI and still route audio via HDMI into the amplifier. However, Windows still treats the HDMI connection as a video output and it needs to be enabled (as if a second screen) in order to work. After researching. I understand that you cannot output audio only via HDMI.
> 
> Am I correct that I read somewhere in this giant thread that there are issues using the Qnix in a multi-display configuration if the other displays have different settings (i.e. resolution and refresh rate)? I'd like to clock the Qnix to 96Hz but fear that my 1080p 60Hz amp/TV will prevent this.
> 
> Using extended desktop is a pain because it creates a second screen (which isn't actually there) for the mouse to get lost on and it causes my GPU memory clock to lock at 1575Mhz instead of 150Mhz! The 'duplicate screen' option prevents both of these issues but is surely only available when the screen specs match?.
> 
> Am I completely out of luck if I want to carry on using HDMI for audio?


I have no idea about your audio configuration, however, I THINK (could be wrong) that the program DisplayFusion corrects the Extended Desktop invisible monitor space between bezels. If there truly is an entire extra invisible monitor created by your HDMI connection, nevermind!

In an Extended Desktop setup, multiple displays dont need to have the same resolution/refresh rate. If the invisible monitor space between BEZELS is your only complaint about using the Extend Desktop mode, try to find out if DisplayFusion corrects it









Again, I could be mistaken/misunderstrood your issue!


----------



## TheSilentCircus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> So if I want a 3 monitor setup, I have to get a dp monitor correct since I'm using the 2 dual link dvi's on my 780 gtx. There for I won't be able to oc because the controller board for the hi/dp will not allow for oc and will introduce input lag... Correct?
> 
> Just going back to that post made a few pages back that was really long and talking about some of the controllers.... Also where is this thicker gauge wire that you guys are getting?
> 
> Finally the best price I see is 289 on eBay by sum green or what ever his name was. My last shimain was from bigcloth but he seems quite a bit more expensive now.


Yes I bought mine from green-sum. The price has gone up a bit but even at 289.99 but I think that is still one of the best deals in my opinion.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> Interesting, but as long as I stay way from 2560x1440 it should be fine right? That blue line also got me curious as it appeared on the bottom (so horizontal pixels) and yet it got fixed by increasing vertical. Im currently at 2644 x 1449 and everything seems to be well.
> 
> I've got another question, is there any benefit in using CRU as opposed to Nvidia CPL + Catleap inf driver? I'm only aiming at 96Hz which is easily achievable so I figured I don't need it.


Yes and Yes the benefit would be having the resolution in the EDID as a native resolution rather than a custom one making it easier recognised by many games and theoretically eliminating the need for the catleap driver. Some reports have shown that using CRU and the catleap driver seems to be the best bet. However odd that is i have seen it still make a difference. It could likely just be a benefit over a generic monitor driver. Also having the resolution as a native one rather than custom "unlocks" the setting in the NVCP for "preferred refresh" which can be set to "highest available" thus improving game refresh compatibility even further. Please note the preferred refresh setting only works to my knowledge with 120hz and only shows up AFTER the refresh is set as a native resolution and the driver re-installed. This may not completely apply to you since you are sticking with 96hz but it is relevant to an advantage of CRU over NVCP.


----------



## bsch3r

I purchased my qnix one week ago. It had severe backlight bleed in the right lower corner. I applied the tape fix and it worked great, backlight bleeding is now only minimal. No pixel defects and it overclocks to 110 MHz. At 120 I get occasional scan lines and image retention, even with tweaking like advised by spartan.

My bigest fear with this monitor was if it had PWM, because here are conflicting reports. I can confirm that the monitor DOES NOT use PWM unless you turn it down to the lowest possible brightness level. At normal levels it does not use PWM, I used the method provided by tftcentral to verify this.

I usually spend a lot of money for hardware. I was very impressed reading in this forum about Callsign Vega´s 3 monitor setup. Therefore I bought an Asus VG248QE and tried out the lightboost 2D hack. I can confirm this provides CRT-like motion. However, regarding image quality, there are worlds between the Qnix PLS panel and the TN-panel of the ASUS monitor, especially when using lightboost. The Qnix has MUCH better color, contrast and black detail. When comparing Qnix in 120 MHz mode against ASUS VG248QE at 120 MHz without lightboost, e.g. with testufo, the Qnix has a little bit more smearing but the difference is not huge, while the Qnix again has much better ovarall image quality. 27 inch light boost monitors are no option for me because of the low resolution compared to the size.

I really would like to know what Vega thinks about this monitor comapred to his 3 Benq TN-Monitors. As I said, the Qnix does not use PWM. In my opinion the much better overall image quality outweighs not having lightboost.

To sum it up: If there was a monitor from a premium brand with 2560x1440 resolution, PLS or IPS panel, 120 Hz and flickerfree without PWM, I would have been willing to pay a lot of money for a couple of weeks ago. The problem: there is no such monitor. Then I found this thread in this forum and I cannot believe that a sub 300 $ monitor from Korea fulfills all my wishes, admittedly with a little bit of tweaking. This is hands down the best display I have ever owned, and I have owned a lot.


----------



## frozen60

I just got my Qnix 2710 yestersday. I have it set up using Catleap drivers + Nvidia control panel only. The monitor is stable at 120hz auto but I had issues with the DVI port on my graphics card. Using the second DVI port fixed the occassional green line/artifact that was appearing.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frozen60*
> 
> I just got my Qnix 2710 yestersday. I have it set up using Catleap drivers + Nvidia control panel only. The monitor is stable at 120hz auto but I had issues with the DVI port on my graphics card. Using the second DVI port fixed the occassional green line/artifact that was appearing.


how and where do I install the Catleap Drivers? I searched in thread and there was a download for it, but it was just a text document... didnt explain much imo


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> how and where do I install the Catleap Drivers? I searched in thread and there was a download for it, but it was just a text document... didnt explain much imo


You would do this in the control panel by re-installing your monitor driver and manually pointing it to the catleap driver. The test you are seeing is the code that drives the inf file to run the monitor EDID. You can search on google "how to manually install a driver" and you will find 5 different comprehensive tutorials on the first page of results(given you have no preset search preferences).


----------



## lef1337

icc profiles dont work in games full screen mode? any way to fix that?


----------



## Klopek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lef1337*
> 
> icc profiles dont work in games full screen mode? any way to fix that?


I haven't got the monitor to mess around with yet but somebody must have mentioned this - which appears to resolve that issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Again, I could be mistaken/misunderstrood your issue!


Thanks for the info, however it is indeed a video output that is not actually connected to a monitor.

I think I'll just get the Qnix - see if HDMI audio is acceptable despite the previously described annoyances and if not, look to installing a dedicated card - perhaps the Xonar DX.

I was pondering a second GPU (which would require a more powerful PSU) to push games at this resolution but this is all *really* starting to get expensive!


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lef1337*
> 
> icc profiles dont work in games full screen mode? any way to fix that?


They don't? That's odd, didn't notice much shift when playing Skyrim...

Edit: turns out Skyrim's fine in fullscreen mode, doesn't touch my calibration at all








But +rep to Klopek for the program, never seen it before.


----------



## true86no

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klopek*
> 
> I've been reading a lot - hundreds - of pages from this thread.
> 
> I was set to buy a monitor when it suddenly hit me - what am I going to do about audio?
> 
> My current setup is HDMI through an amplifier which is passed through to a 1080p television. I've already tested and confirmed that I can connect the TV via DVI and still route audio via HDMI into the amplifier. However, Windows still treats the HDMI connection as a video output and it needs to be enabled (as if a second screen) in order to work. After researching. I understand that you cannot output audio only via HDMI.
> 
> Am I correct that I read somewhere in this giant thread that there are issues using the Qnix in a multi-display configuration if the other displays have different settings (i.e. resolution and refresh rate)? I'd like to clock the Qnix to 96Hz but fear that my 1080p 60Hz amp/TV will prevent this.
> 
> Using extended desktop is a pain because it creates a second screen (which isn't actually there) for the mouse to get lost on and it causes my GPU memory clock to lock at 1575Mhz instead of 150Mhz! The 'duplicate screen' option prevents both of these issues but is surely only available when the screen specs match?.
> 
> Am I completely out of luck if I want to carry on using HDMI for audio?


You should be using HDMI for video(TV) and an Optical cable for audio(receiver). I have this setup running fine.

Asus Z68, 2600k, MSI 580GTX Lightning - DVI-D to Qnix @ 120hz/461mhz Pixel Clock (gaming only) / Intel 3000HD(On board) HDMI to 42" Samsung LCD TV and Optical Cable to Samsung receiver.

Most of the time Qnix stays at 60hz for GPU downclocks/Power savings. I do not have any problems running Qnix 120hz and LCD TV at 60hz together.

P.s. The 580GTX can power both display at the same time in the same manner too but I configure my setup to save power as it runs 24/7.


----------



## theilya

what are the benefits of installing catleap drivers?


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Wow that is a nice panel. I have never got mine to go above 153hz even with a lot of tweaking. Have you manually set timings yet and tried optimizing the pixel clock? If you did that on stock timings i am going to be pretty impressed.


I actually used Nvidia control panel to create a custom resolution, using the "Automatic" standard. For some reason I'm not able to use the resolutions I made in CRU anymore. See my post here. After I plugged my DVI cable into my DVI-D port (instead of my DVI-I), Windows has not been able to detect the custom resolutions I've made in CRU. So I updated my drivers, restarted, repatched them, re-enabled test mode, used the "reset all" program found in the CRU folder, restarted, remade my custom resolutions, and restarted. I'm still only able to see 59hz and 60hz in Windows. However I can create and apply custom resolutions in the Nvidia control panel just fine. Not sure why that is.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> I actually used Nvidia control panel to create a custom resolution, using the "Automatic" standard. For some reason I'm not able to use the resolutions I made in CRU anymore. See my post here. After I plugged my DVI cable into my DVI-D port (instead of my DVI-I), Windows has not been able to detect the custom resolutions I've made in CRU. So I updated my drivers, restarted, repatched them, re-enabled test mode, used the "reset all" program found in the CRU folder, restarted, remade my custom resolutions, and restarted. I'm still only able to see 59hz and 60hz in Windows. However I can create and apply custom resolutions in the Nvidia control panel just fine. Not sure why that is.


Make sure that that in the monitor selection drop down you are on a monitor with a * sign next to it. This indicates it is an monitor. When you switched ports the monitor will show up as a new device and pulls a different IRQ resource thus showing as different in the device manager. If you are not on the monitor listed with a * it is not an active monitor and nothing is going to work. There will be a lot of old duplicates in there(which is multiplied as you try different ports and what not i seriously have like 50 of them only 2 show a * sign).

Let me know if this is it, it is the only thing that comes to mind that could cause it that you did not mention.


----------



## frozen60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> what are the benefits of installing catleap drivers?


If you have an nvidia card, you wont have to use CRU and worry about test mode etc...


----------



## explicitez

I have a question. I know that the panels that only have the dual-link dvi input has no OSD. They also only have brightness control. My question is, does the panels that come with HDMI and Displayport have inputs to adjust things other than brightness like rgb/color values? I know they have an OSD, but I'm not sure what can be adjustable on them. Also, does anyone know how much more input lag is introduced or if its even noticeable on the panels with multiple input types?


----------



## Ghost12

Just received my shipment tracking info from Fedex for the Qnix, screen due Tuesday next week. I hate waiting lol


----------



## Tom114

So mine got shipped on monday and I don't know what UPS is doing right now but my scheduled date is gone and it has stopped in Hong Kong because of " Adverse weather conditions" lol.
From track & trace:
Chek Lap Kok, Hong Kong - 08/21/2013 6:32 P.M.- Adverse weather conditions.


----------



## Rakunvar

K quick question cause im getting overly frustrated...

Trying to run the website test after my OC but I keep getting the Imperfect sync close apps/etc and no matter what I cant get hat to go away... I've gotten it to work a few times but even when Nvida etc shows a higher clock rate it showed lower... Not sure if its just saying the OC isnt working or what.... Any info on that?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> K quick question cause im getting overly frustrated...
> 
> Trying to run the website test after my OC but I keep getting the Imperfect sync close apps/etc and no matter what I cant get hat to go away... I've gotten it to work a few times but even when Nvida etc shows a higher clock rate it showed lower... Not sure if its just saying the OC isnt working or what.... Any info on that?


What browser are you using?


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Make sure that that in the monitor selection drop down you are on a monitor with a * sign next to it. This indicates it is an monitor. When you switched ports the monitor will show up as a new device and pulls a different IRQ resource thus showing as different in the device manager. If you are not on the monitor listed with a * it is not an active monitor and nothing is going to work. There will be a lot of old duplicates in there(which is multiplied as you try different ports and what not i seriously have like 50 of them only 2 show a * sign).
> 
> Let me know if this is it, it is the only thing that comes to mind that could cause it that you did not mention.


When I clicked "Reset all," it got rid of everything. So now the only monitor there in the drop down is the one with a * next to it. Include extension block unchecked as well. Still not showing up. Maybe I have to uninstall the monitor drivers in device manager?

I may just use the Catleap driver and forget about the CRU then, if it's going to give me problems. If I want to use the Nvidia Control panel, I don't need test mode enabled anymore right? But I still need my drivers patched?


----------



## true86no

I switched to the latest 326.80 beta drivers and couldn't not get a stable 120hz anymore. Even with tweaking pixel clock. Haven't the time to revert yet. Beware, guys.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> They don't? That's odd, didn't notice much shift when playing Skyrim...
> 
> Edit: turns out Skyrim's fine in fullscreen mode, doesn't touch my calibration at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But +rep to Klopek for the program, never seen it before.


How did you determine it "did not touch calibration" exactly? Just based on looks? Yeah I haven't noticed much color diff when going into 3D. That's not to say for sure that there isn't one...


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> When I clicked "Reset all," it got rid of everything. So now the only monitor there in the drop down is the one with a * next to it. Include extension block unchecked as well. Still not showing up. Maybe I have to uninstall the monitor drivers in device manager?
> 
> I may just use the Catleap driver and forget about the CRU then, if it's going to give me problems. If I want to use the Nvidia Control panel, I don't need test mode enabled anymore right? But I still need my drivers patched?


You need your drivers patched to hit certain refresh rates regardless of method, since the patch removes the pixel clock limit. You should not need to use test mode at all anymore with the latest driver patcher v1.2. Here's what should work for you (if you don't want to go with the Catleap method):


Uninstall your drivers and disable test mode, reboot
Reinstall your drivers (may as well do the latest beta 326.80) and patch using the latest patcher, reboot
Run CRU and add your custom resolution, uncheck "include extension block", reboot
If your new refresh rate doesn't show up in the standard list, then I'm not really sure what could be going wrong at that point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> I switched to the latest 326.80 beta drivers and couldn't not get a stable 120hz anymore. Even with tweaking pixel clock. Haven't the time to revert yet. Beware, guys.


I'm running 326.80 @ 120hz with no problem, doesn't seem any different than other driver versions.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> I switched to the latest 326.80 beta drivers and couldn't not get a stable 120hz anymore. Even with tweaking pixel clock. Haven't the time to revert yet. Beware, guys.


Thanks for the info, I have 326.58 beta drivers and everything seems fine, I'll stick with these for awhile.


----------



## Rakunvar

Tried every single one of them listed on their site lol


----------



## istudy92

Got a quiz in less than 5 days from amazon..even though they said it would come in 3-4weeks!

I got one dead pixel near the center, and 3 dead looking or discolor end areas...

I could OC it to 120htz but got red lines across center, then did 110 red lines ONCE in a blue moon at center,
96htz fully stable.

I switched from 1080p 60htz ips...i dont see a diffrience in refresh rate...lol


----------



## caenlen

whenever I right click to install catleap driver it says inf does not include digital signature code... how do i get past this?


----------



## blaze0079

Disable driver signature enforcement

Lots of guides on Google


----------



## R0th

Received mine today. Ordered from *accessorieswhole*. Paid around EUR 280,-



Question is tho, I've ordered Perfect Pixel matte, and according to another seller on Ebay, Hulustar, there must be a sticker on top of the box to verify that it is indeed a Perfect Pixel Product.
However this one that I just received hasn't got one.

This is the picture Hulustar mentioned.



Anyone know how else I can verify that it is a Perfect Pixel product, other then installing it and hope to see now dead pixels?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R0th*
> 
> Received mine today. Ordered from *accessorieswhole*. Paid around EUR 280,-
> 
> 
> 
> Question is tho, I've ordered Perfect Pixel matte, and according to another seller on Ebay, Hulustar, there must be a sticker on top of the box to verify that it is indeed a Perfect Pixel Product.
> However this one that I just received hasn't got one.
> 
> This is the picture Hulustar mentioned.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know how else I can verify that it is a Perfect Pixel product, other then installing it and hope to see now dead pixels?


This is probably not something from the manufacturer, but something Hulustar does? If it's a factory thing, then I think a lot of the eBay sellers are selling "seller-tested" perfect pixel monitors rather than factory certified pixel perfect monitors.

I ordered a perfect pixel matte from green-sum and there were no stickers on the box. You're just going to have to plug it in.

Also you have to know what your seller's policy is. Some of the "perfect pixel" policies actually allow for a few dead / stuck pixels.


----------



## sniggleface

EDIT: coelacanth beat me to it. My response anyway:

I'm pretty sure "perfect pixel" is just a term that many people are using. It's not something guaranteed by the manufacturer. Hulustar happens to indicate which monitors they have hand selected as being perfect pixel. By ordering from someone other than hulustar you can't really expect that marking to exist.


----------



## Kaze105

Just got my Qnix QX2710LED. I connected the cables and tried to boot up the computer. The screen showed POST and I was happy, but the moment it passed that, the screen turned blank and blue light started flashing. Any idea why?


----------



## Klopek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> You should be using HDMI for video(TV) and an Optical cable for audio(receiver). I have this setup running fine.


Perhaps if you didn't have a HDMI compatible receiver you'd be forced to do this - but lossless audio codecs or multi-channel PCM audio wouldn't be possible. If you're specifically talking about audio from games then I think that you must be encoding the audio with Dolby Digital Live. Unfortunately I believe you're limited to 5.1 which will be heavily compressed. Either that or you're outputting Stereo PCM.

My current onboard sound doesn't have the DDL license to do this and the software solutions that I've tried cause AV synchronisation issues. To use Dolby Digital Live I'd need to buy a dedicated sound card and if doing so I might as well buy a 7.1 card with analogue outputs (removing the need for DDL).

Thank you for the info about the Qnix and TV running in tandem successfully.


----------



## R0th

Just got it installed. Haven't noticed any BLB or any dead pixel. So far, so good.




Is there any really good quick method to check for BLB?
I suppose turning off all the lights and set a full screen black image?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Here is various colors incl. black. F11 to full screen.

http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php


----------



## TrevJonez

Blinking blue light is the standby.

Try another monitor and get into windows then switch to the qnix


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R0th*
> 
> Anyone know how else I can verify that it is a Perfect Pixel product, other then installing it and hope to see now dead pixels?


Yes there is apparently some factory sticker but idk if on all "PP" or from all sellers and who the hell knows exactly what they check for exactly...at any rate there is really no sense in wondering or fretting about it. If no dead pixels then great that was the point and if there are--well now you have a better shot at getting a replacement, I guess.

So just hook it up!

Edit: oops responded to your latest post already lol...so cool no DP. Though considering they have only gone down in price for that much it had better be an immaculate one.


----------



## Kaze105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Blinking blue light is the standby.
> 
> Try another monitor and get into windows then switch to the qnix


Nothing happens, just continuating blue blinking light. Switch cable back to old 1080p and it works fine. Blinking blue light when I switch it back to qnix.

I can go into bios, but thats it. Everytime I restart, it will just goes into standby after post.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaze105*
> 
> Nothing happens, just continuating blue blinking light. Switch cable back to old 1080p and it works fine. Blinking blue light when I switch it back to qnix.
> 
> I can go into bios, but thats it. Everytime I restart, it will just goes into standby after post.


Try hooking up both your monitors to the video card, and check to see what resolution your video card is sending to the Qnix. Make sure it's 1440p.

Also, check what kind of cable you're using with the Qnix. It needs to be a Dual-Link DVI cable, so the end should look like this:


----------



## Karnoffel

Has anyone tried to paint the bezel with a matte coating?


----------



## Ryder92

Random question for some other owners, so I bought this monitor and was using a gigabyte GTX 570 and overclocking the monitor stable to 120hz, I bought a sapphire radeon 7970 today and installed it, and cant manage to overclock it stabily over 110hz, any idea why?


----------



## Kaze105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Try hooking up both your monitors to the video card, and check to see what resolution your video card is sending to the Qnix. Make sure it's 1440p.
> 
> Also, check what kind of cable you're using with the Qnix. It needs to be a Dual-Link DVI cable, so the end should look like this:
> ]


Edit: Finally got it working. Had to reinstall Nvidia Driver and it suddenly turned on.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> You need your drivers patched to hit certain refresh rates regardless of method, since the patch removes the pixel clock limit. You should not need to use test mode at all anymore with the latest driver patcher v1.2. Here's what should work for you (if you don't want to go with the Catleap method):
> 
> 
> Uninstall your drivers and disable test mode, reboot
> Reinstall your drivers (may as well do the latest beta 326.80) and patch using the latest patcher, reboot
> Run CRU and add your custom resolution, uncheck "include extension block", reboot
> If your new refresh rate doesn't show up in the standard list, then I'm not really sure what could be going wrong at that point.
> I'm running 326.80 @ 120hz with no problem, doesn't seem any different than other driver versions.


This is pretty much what I did, except I didn't uninstall my old drivers first, I just installed over the new ones. And you never mentioned re-enabling test mode, do I need it enabled?

So, something is definitely not right here. I add 120hz, I restart, and as soon as I get to the desktop, I hear the driver uninstalled sound. Go to advanced settings, and I only see 59 and 60hz. If I restart again, then I can see 120hz.

If I add 147hz (just wanted to test if I can go that high in the CRU, because I can if I make a 147hz resolution in Nvidia), I restart. Remember I still am at 120hz. As soon as I get to the desktop I hear the driver uninstalled sound, and my screen flashes, sending me back to 60hz. Then in a few seconds again, it flashes, going back up to 120hz.

I can understand drivers crashing if I enabled 147hz and I couldn't hand it, but I know I can handle 147hz in Nvidia control panel. On top of that, I didn't even enable 147hz, nor do I see it in the dropdown menu of all my resolutions in Windows.

I'm going to forget about adding 147hz and see what happens after I enable 120hz and restart twice.

Edit: Just restarted again. Same sound and screen flashing twice, and then the driver installed sound. 147hz appears in my list of resolutions. When I enable it, I get a pretty decent amount of scan lines (compared to the 147hz I created in Nvidia control panel being completely stable).

I'm going to delete 147hz from the CRU and see what happens. Not sure why I have to restart twice for my resolutions to appear, and what's the deal with the accompanying screen flashes and install/uninstall sounds.

Edit again: Odd... I made 120hz, 110hz, and 96hz custom resolutions. Restarted 4 times now. They appear in the dropdown menu, *but now every time my computer turns on and reaches to the desktop the screen flashes twice and I hear the uninstall sound!!* I just enabled test mode thinking it was because I had it disabled, but that's not it....

It was fine before... what did I do? :X

Edit edit: Tried something else. Hope this gives us more info. I deleted the display in the CRU, restarted and created my new resolutions. Restarted again, and still get the 2 screen flashes, but when I look next to the name of my display, there's a * after it but not "(active)." If I go into device manager, there's the error sign next to my "Generic PnP Monitor," stating "Windows cannot load the device driver for this hardware because a previous instance of the device driver is still in memory. (Code 38)" There's only one display listing in the drop down menu in the CRU, I don't have another one. I deleted them all and created this one.

Meanwhile, I can still change between resolutions in the Nvidia control panel (the resolutions show up there but not in the advanced monitor settings tab). I remember reading though that some games won't use Nvidia custom resolution settings, and the screen flashes are annoying, so I really want to fix the CRU.

This is just too weird.


----------



## theilya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frozen60*
> 
> If you have an nvidia card, you wont have to use CRU and worry about test mode etc...


I have nvidia card I used patcher+CRU would there be any point or benefits of installaing driver now and using NV panel instead?


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze0079*
> 
> Disable driver signature enforcement
> 
> Lots of guides on Google


Thanks when I update to Windows 8.1 Oct 17th during official release of it will it mess it up? I guess I better just go to 60hz restore drivers and start fresh after i install win 8.1 anyway just to be safe.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karnoffel*
> 
> Has anyone tried to paint the bezel with a matte coating?


Indeed, someone did and it came out great. Was weeks and weeks ago though. Could try searching for paint-related terms like primer or sanded. Or, hell, even "paint" itself.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryder92*
> 
> Random question for some other owners, so I bought this monitor and was using a gigabyte GTX 570 and overclocking the monitor stable to 120hz, I bought a sapphire radeon 7970 today and installed it, and cant manage to overclock it stabily over 110hz, any idea why?


Your question kinda answers itself. All things equal all you changed was the Gfx card. It appears your 570 overclocks better. I have a pair of 570s in SLI and they can overclock to about 149hz tops. I also have a GTX760 and it can overclock to 153hz with all things equal. The video card is another persistent variable in the overclocking process.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Remmib's Bezel Painting Guide


----------



## milan616

Has anyone noted their serial number? I was pulling it up for my Square Trade warranty and notice it was a date for the first part. If my guess is right, my monitor was assembled (8/14) two days before it was shipped! Pretty cool.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> This is pretty much what I did, except I didn't uninstall my old drivers first, I just installed over the new ones. And you never mentioned re-enabling test mode, do I need it enabled?


As of the latest patcher, you never need to have test mode enabled since it can patch it without breaking the signature.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Edit: Just restarted again. Same sound and screen flashing twice, and then the driver installed sound. 147hz appears in my list of resolutions. When I enable it, I get a pretty decent amount of scan lines (compared to the 147hz I created in Nvidia control panel being completely stable).


Oddly, my screen also does the flashing with hardware added sound after I log in, but everything works so I never thought twice about it. Even the login screen is 120hz. I'm using Windows 8 x64. At this point I'm not really sure what else to suggest trying.

The nVidia control panel might calculate different timings than CRU which could explain the scan lines.


----------



## Ironsight

Thanks to Spartan F8's posts, and many others, I've lowered my pixel clock from 483 Mhz down to 461.97 Mhz. (Total Pixel Count 2655 1450)

Should I bother to buy a new cable and try to get the pixel clock down to around 450?

Can more people share their experiences with changing out the stock cable, and what cable they are using?

I'm thinking about going to my local NCIX to pick up a Startech or order one off of Monoprice.


----------



## sniggleface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsight*
> 
> Thanks to Spartan F8's posts, and many others, I've lowered my pixel clock from 483 Mhz down to 461.97 Mhz. (Total Pixel Count 2655 1450)
> 
> Should I bother to buy a new cable and try to get the pixel clock down to around 450?
> 
> Can more people share their experiences with changing out the stock cable, and what cable they are using?
> 
> I'm thinking about going to my local NCIX to pick up a Startech or order one off of Monoprice.


If you're not experiencing any artifacts, there's no reason to try another cable. The only reason people do it is if "reasonable" refresh rates aren't working, meaning the cable may not be able to handle how much data is flowing through it. Otherwise, digital is digital and if the signal is intact you're good to go.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> As of the latest patcher, you never need to have test mode enabled since it can patch it without breaking the signature.
> Oddly, my screen also does the flashing with hardware added sound after I log in, but everything works so I never thought twice about it. Even the login screen is 120hz. I'm using Windows 8 x64. At this point I'm not really sure what else to suggest trying.
> 
> The nVidia control panel might calculate different timings than CRU which could explain the scan lines.


I think it might be the latest drivers, I'm not sure what's going on all I know is that it wasn't happening before I installed the new drivers. So I can just disable test mode and never have to worry about it again?


----------



## apav

double post


----------



## LegendFury

Hey guys, is there any way at all to use this monitor with a laptop? Thanks.


----------



## gl0ry

How dependable are the OC's on these monitors? Does it lower the life of the displays?

I'm contemplating going into stupid mode and buying 3 of these coming from BenQ TN panels.

I have a 120hz and 2 60hz monitors but I have 2 780s and I feel like my computer is too powerful for 1080p


----------



## Darknight1

Back light bleed on my new Qnix from green-sum. Seems pretty bad. Should I ask for an exchange?

This is one click up from full lowest brightness:





The one in the center-upper-left goes away a bit when i push gently on it, but the one in the center-upper-right just glares at me.









Thanks!


----------



## gl0ry

So I've decided I'll get two. I'll probably get the pixel perfect models, can anyone suggest x-star or qnix?

Also, I'm a bit confused because the listing on amazon say LG IPS and one just says samsung QHD. Is there any real difference?

Also what's this thing I'm reading about with burn-in? Can't find a lot of info but apparently these panels suffer from it?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Karnoffel*
> 
> Has anyone tried to paint the bezel with a matte coating?
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed, someone did and it came out great. Was weeks and weeks ago though. Could try searching for paint-related terms like primer or sanded. Or, hell, even "paint" itself.
Click to expand...

There is a guide in the OP under a like-titled expandable. It comes out really well

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> So I've decided I'll get two. I'll probably get the pixel perfect models, can anyone suggest x-star or qnix?
> 
> Also, I'm a bit confused because the listing on amazon say LG IPS and one just says samsung QHD. Is there any real difference?
> 
> Also what's this thing I'm reading about with burn-in? Can't find a lot of info but apparently these panels suffer from it?


Probably the most common question here. Look in the OP under FAQ for differences --- none. Id say qnix because it sounds like the less cheap name brand of the two. Burn in sometimes happens with high OCs and is non-permanent


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> There is a guide in the OP under a like-titled expandable. It comes out really well
> Probably the most common question here. Look in the OP under FAQ for differences --- none. Id say qnix because it sounds like the less cheap name brand of the two. Burn in sometimes happens with high OCs and is non-permanent


I think I've decided to go with dreamseller on ebay with the "perfect pixel" guarantee. Seems like most people have good luck with that.

From the research I've done in the past couple of hours, matte seems to be the preferred choice.


----------



## wntrsnowg

I used to be on the fence but having a glossy laptop I can see how annoying glossy would have been. Glossy makes reflections that you wouldn't think would happen. One really needs to be in a basement or cave for glossy to not reflect haha


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I used to be on the fence but having a glossy laptop I can see how annoying glossy would have been. Glossy makes reflections that you wouldn't think would happen. One really needs to be in a basement or cave for glossy to not reflect haha


I've never owned a glossy monitor before. I basically took my mobile phone and threw it up where my monitors are, and i saw the reflection of myself and the light... I was like.. nope. I think the glossy looks better, but if I'm going to get reflections that's a no go.

I hear the Matte on these are high quality/very light, so they basically just cancel out the glare but you still retain the image quality.

Edit: Ended up getting pixel perfect matte qnix, hope I made the right choice!


----------



## gl0ry

So from my understanding, these monitors come with a power brick and I can use my own 110w power cable on that brick without any power issues.

Can someone clarify that for me?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Mine included the foreign power plug with US adapter. You could also unplug the cable from the power brick and plug in your own standard power supply cable


----------



## Paramount

is there any risk overclock Qnix ?? my own oc to 96 Hz !!!


----------



## wntrsnowg

No one really knows yet. Only time will tell. There have been other korean monitors overclocked for year(s) with no problems so I assume the same applies to these


----------



## Kwisatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> Back light bleed on my new Qnix from green-sum. Seems pretty bad. Should I ask for an exchange?
> 
> This is one click up from full lowest brightness:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one in the center-upper-left goes away a bit when i push gently on it, but the one in the center-upper-right just glares at me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I had the same amount of BLB on my X-Star, with the same distribution of bleeding, only upside-down. I consider this intolerable BLB, but I'd be curious to know what other, more experienced users are thinking about it (I never had those issues with my TN panel before).

I was able to fix most of the BLB using the tape method that is being suggested at the front page of this thread and a few youtube videos on how to open up the monitor. Feel free to ask if you need any help. Now, the bleed that emited from the center (which is at the top in your case, was at the bottom in mine) is all but gone. I don't even notice the remaining BLB, not even when playing dark games like Dishonored at night.

This is the BLB _after_ the tape fix. Mind you, the photo was taken with long exposure time, so the BLB looks worse than it actually is. Also, I didn't bother taping the upper part of the screen back then, which is probably the reason why there's still a decent amount of BLB there. I might get to it when I find the nerve and time...


If you don't want to take the risk of breaking something while using the tape mod, I'd seriously consider a refund or exchange on the sellers expense.


----------



## true86no

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *true86no*
> 
> I switched to the latest 326.80 beta drivers and couldn't not get a stable 120hz anymore. Even with tweaking pixel clock. Haven't the time to revert yet. Beware, guys.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sniggleface*
> 
> You need your drivers patched to hit certain refresh rates regardless of method, since the patch removes the pixel clock limit. You should not need to use test mode at all anymore with the latest driver patcher v1.2. Here's what should work for you (if you don't want to go with the Catleap method):
> 
> 
> Uninstall your drivers and disable test mode, reboot
> Reinstall your drivers (may as well do the latest beta 326.80) and patch using the latest patcher, reboot
> Run CRU and add your custom resolution, uncheck "include extension block", reboot
> If your new refresh rate doesn't show up in the standard list, then I'm not really sure what could be going wrong at that point.
> I'm running 326.80 @ 120hz with no problem, doesn't seem any different than other driver versions.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> Thanks for the info, I have 326.58 beta drivers and everything seems fine, I'll stick with these for awhile.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> Tried every single one of them listed on their site lol










managed to get it stable after all.


----------



## true86no

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klopek*
> 
> Perhaps if you didn't have a HDMI compatible receiver you'd be forced to do this - but lossless audio codecs or multi-channel PCM audio wouldn't be possible. If you're specifically talking about audio from games then I think that you must be encoding the audio with Dolby Digital Live. Unfortunately I believe you're limited to 5.1 which will be heavily compressed. Either that or you're outputting Stereo PCM.
> 
> My current onboard sound doesn't have the DDL license to do this and the software solutions that I've tried cause AV synchronisation issues. To use Dolby Digital Live I'd need to buy a dedicated sound card and if doing so I might as well buy a 7.1 card with analogue outputs (removing the need for DDL).
> 
> Thank you for the info about the Qnix and TV running in tandem successfully.


Welcome. Yes, I do have a dedicated sound card. Creative SoundBlaster Xi-Fi platinum.

I only output to my TV and receiver when I'm watching movies or shows. I play games on the Qnix with a cheap 2.1 Altec Lansing. I've even played a movie for my son while gaming. As in 1 PC supplying a movie to the HDTV while at the same time playing a game on the Qnix with the Altec Lansing. I was surprised I could do this.

Honestly I'm not an audiophile though I understand when you say lossless and PCM audio, I am not fussy about them. As long as I hear sounds coming from all my speakers:- coming in the right direction; explosions and sound effects are punchy - I'm good.







.


----------



## DiceAir

so I sort of fixed my issue. Is it safe to run my screen on 96Hz all the time even desktop


----------



## Tom114

Just received mine, It's amazing, no backlight bleeding or any dead pixels. I ordered at Green-sum no pixel perfect.

I had to pay 70 euros for customs though


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Just received mine, It's amazing, no backlight bleeding or any dead pixels. I ordered at Green-sum no pixel perfect.
> 
> I had to pay 70 euros for customs though


I am awaiting to see if I suffer the same fate, I don`t know if this is random or guaranteed or luck. Mine according to Fedex is now in France so over half way here lol


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> I had the same amount of BLB on my X-Star, with the same distribution of bleeding, only upside-down. I consider this intolerable BLB, but I'd be curious to know what other, more experienced users are thinking about it (I never had those issues with my TN panel before).
> 
> I was able to fix most of the BLB using the tape method that is being suggested at the front page of this thread and a few youtube videos on how to open up the monitor. Feel free to ask if you need any help. Now, the bleed that emited from the center (which is at the top in your case, was at the bottom in mine) is all but gone. I don't even notice the remaining BLB, not even when playing dark games like Dishonored at night.
> 
> This is the BLB _after_ the tape fix. Mind you, the photo was taken with long exposure time, so the BLB looks worse than it actually is. Also, I didn't bother taping the upper part of the screen back then, which is probably the reason why there's still a decent amount of BLB there. I might get to it when I find the nerve and time...
> 
> 
> If you don't want to take the risk of breaking something while using the tape mod, I'd seriously consider a refund or exchange on the sellers expense.


I went ahead and submitted an exchange request on eBay. We'll see what they say. Sigh. I guess if they offer to give me a partial refund and keep the monitor, i might try the tape fix. It just seems like I shouldn't have to pull apart a brand new monitor to get an acceptable level of quality - I'm not expecting perfect.

Thanks


----------



## Kaze105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> Back light bleed on my new Qnix from green-sum. Seems pretty bad. Should I ask for an exchange?
> 
> This is one click up from full lowest brightness:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one in the center-upper-left goes away a bit when i push gently on it, but the one in the center-upper-right just glares at me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Hmm. I also got mine from green-suml and have this problem. Shows up at the bottom area only for me. Looks a little better than what the photo shows, but still noticeable.


----------



## 187x

I got a customs duty tax invoice from Fedex for $20.90

I was wondering has anyone else that bought one of these monitors that live in California got charged a customs duty tax?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I got a customs duty tax invoice from Fedex for $20.90
> 
> I was wondering has anyone else that bought one of these monitors that live in California got charged a customs duty tax?


That sounds like sales tax (~7.5%).


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That sounds like sales tax (~7.5%).


No it's not sales tax the invoice states that it's for duties and tax.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> I am awaiting to see if I suffer the same fate, I don`t know if this is random or guaranteed or luck. Mine according to Fedex is now in France so over half way here lol


I'm sure you will, I got one from Fedex and I got a customs fee of $20.90 USD. I am guessing it's the carrier that charges these fees for importing the item. Last year I bought some shoes from China they were delivered/imported by EMS and valued over a $100 and I never received a customs duty fee.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That sounds like sales tax (~7.5%).


Why would Fedex collect sales tax? He said it was a customs duty invoice.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Why would Fedex collect sales tax? He said it was a customs duty invoice.


The same reason why FedEx collected $40 in sales tax from me when I received my monitor. Except I live in Canada. Anytime I hear about a person speak of "duty" or "customs" in these threads, I get suspicious. Since there is no duty, and no custom on these monitors (in Canada or the US), then either something went wrong and they were charged when they weren't, or something went right, but they misinterpreted what they were charged.

In Canada (I realise this is not California, but bear with me; this is an example of how it might end up being sales tax) the customs officials will actually levy sales tax at the point of entry; which then requires the courier to collect that tax. The specifics of it escape me (whether the courier pays the tax in your stead, then forwards the tax on to you... with a small additional fee, or just forwards the tax onwards) but I have seen many people claim it was "customs" or "duty" when it was the standard sales tax, charged on everything you buy (in Canada). We're just used to paying everything at checkout.

So could it be sales tax? Considering California is one of those states which requires paying (sales) tax on internet purchases, it's entirely possible. Especially if it's $20.90, which works out to be about 7.5% of $279.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The same reason why FedEx collected $40 in sales tax from me when I received my monitor. Except I live in Canada. Anytime I hear about a person speak of "duty" or "customs" in these threads, I get suspicious. Since there is no duty, and no custom on these monitors (in Canada or the US), then either something went wrong and they were charged when they weren't, or something went right, but they misinterpreted what they were charged.
> 
> In Canada (I realise this is not California, but bear with me; this is an example of how it might end up being sales tax) the customs officials will actually levy sales tax at the point of entry; which then requires the courier to collect that tax. The specifics of it escape me (whether the courier pays the tax in your stead, then forwards the tax on to you... with a small additional fee, or just forwards the tax onwards) but I have seen many people claim it was "customs" or "duty" when it was the standard sales tax, charged on everything you buy (in Canada). We're just used to paying everything at checkout.
> 
> So could it be sales tax? Considering California is one of those states which requires paying (sales) tax on internet purchases, it's entirely possible. Especially if it's $20.90, which works out to be about 7.5% of $279.


I think you might be right, makes sense to me but $20.90 doesn't bother me, this monitor is amazing!


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I think you might be right, makes sense to me but $20.90 doesn't bother me, this monitor is amazing!


It should say right on the invoice. Fedex is not going to collect *state sales tax*, they collect duty/import tax and add a brokerage fee. If you actually read the invoice from customs it should say exactly what HS code the monitor was declared under and the tax rate for that code.

Canada != US. I think most people in the US are not paying import tax because items pass through customs with out inspection all the time. Only when an item is inspected and needs to be declared does an import tax get assessed.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> It should say right on the invoice. Fedex is not going to collect *state sales tax*, they collect duty/import tax and add a brokerage fee. If you actually read the invoice from customs it should say exactly what HS code the monitor was declared under and the tax rate for that code.


Why not? No, seriously, why not?


----------



## Particle

The fee FedEx charges is a handling fee. If you read your invoice, you'll see that in the fine print it says that it's not to pay for tax, duty, or customs. It's just a fee FedEx is charging you for having moved it through customs. They assess it based on the declared value of the merchandise. Is it a tax? Effectively yes, but it's levied by FedEx for FedEx, not the state.

--

Regarding the backlight bleed: Remember folks that you're buying second-rate panels. Even grade A panels have bleed problems, albeit to a lesser extent.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Why not? No, seriously, why not?


In the US sales tax is collected at a state level. In each state there are varying laws (some states have zero sales tax). In california, for example, sales tax must be collected at the point of sale if the retailer has a brick and mortar (aka sales presence) in the state, otherwise it is up to the buyer to pay their sales tax at the end of the year (which no one does).

Like I said, OP would just need to read his invoice to confirm...


----------



## DiceAir

Now that i can do 96Hz some games doesn't want to go above 60FPS with vsync on and some games even with off doesn't want to go above 60FPS. How can I fix this? I'm running Nvidia GTX570 SLI


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> The fee FedEx charges is a handling fee. If you read your invoice, you'll see that in the fine print it says that it's not to pay for tax, duty, or customs. It's just a fee FedEx is charging you for having moved it through customs. They assess it based on the declared value of the merchandise. Is it a tax? Effectively yes, but it's levied by FedEx for FedEx, not the state.


If I understand that correctly...

It means FedEx pays the tax on your behalf, then turns around and then charges you a fee for the courtesy of doing so... often larger than the actual tax paid. And calls it a "fee" so as to get around the fact that they're making money on paying tax/custom/fees.... At least, that's my own conspiracist theory. Which depressingly makes a lot of business sense







I know that on *another* purchase I made, this one through DHL, they charged me both the sales tax ($40), and their own customs fee ($10 on top of that).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> In the US sales tax is collected at a state level. In each state there are varying laws (some states have zero sales tax). In california, for example, sales tax must be collected at the point of sale if the retailer has a brick and mortar (aka sales presence) in the state, otherwise it is up to the buyer to pay their sales tax at the end of the year (which no one does).
> 
> Like I said, OP would just need to read his invoice to confirm...


I see. I still don't see why that means that FedEx doesn't collect sales tax, ever. It just seems entirely too coincidental that the fee is exactly equivalent to 7.5% of the (common) purchase price of a Qnix, when the item in question is in fact a Qnix monitor, on which no tax has been paid (but ought to have been paid).


----------



## 187x

I took some pictures of the invoice, all I can really see is 14.40 for Duty and I.R. Tax and $6.50 for a Advancement Fee, total of $20.90, and valued at $288


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> The fee FedEx charges is a handling fee. If you read your invoice, you'll see that in the fine print it says that it's not to pay for tax, duty, or customs. It's just a fee FedEx is charging you for having moved it through customs. They assess it based on the declared value of the merchandise. Is it a tax? Effectively yes, but it's levied by FedEx for FedEx, not the state.


Yeah, that's probably what it is.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I took some pictures of the invoice, all I can really see is 14.40 for Duty and I.R. Tax and 6.50 for a Advancement Fee $6.50, total of $20.90, and valued at $288


5% Duty? That's not something that you should be paying.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> 5% Duty? That's not something that you should be paying.


Yeah, I dunno much about this stuff.


----------



## gl0ry

I ordered two of these from dreamseller, so I have a customs fee to expect too?


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I ordered two of these from dreamseller, so I have a customs fee to expect too?


If he shipped it with Fedex probably and how much? It depends where you live, now if dream seller shipped it to me with EMS or DHL I wonder if I would of got a customs fee? Hmmm interesting though.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No there should never be any fees or duty in the US period. That's exactly what "free trade" means. Strange that only a few randoms have gotten these things. Though I do not know if mine came Fed Ex or what it just showed up at my office after only 2 days.


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> No there should never be any fees or duty in the US period.


F****n piece of ***** FedEx I been hearing bad things about them in this thread with duty fees ugh!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Now that i can do 96Hz some games doesn't want to go above 60FPS with vsync on and some games even with off doesn't want to go above 60FPS. How can I fix this? I'm running Nvidia GTX570 SLI


There is a ton of info on this topic and getting games to use hte overclocked refresh rate. Here is a brief summery but you can find more detail by searching "force refresh" or "vsync" in this thread.

1. having the refresh in the EDID by using CRU rather than NVCP
2. Using the catleap driver
3. Vsync will sync to the games standard refresh in most instances. There is a "preferred refresh" but it only works with 120hz to my knowledge.
4. Vsync in game and driver level can also differ so you may need to toggle them back and forth to see which one works.
5. 120hz /= 120FPS. Even is you turn off vsync and you exceed 60FPS it does not mean you are running at 120hz
6. If you google "force refresh" there is a lot off tutorials regarding getting higher refresh rates working with older and not natively compatible games(most involve config change at the file level)


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There is a ton of info on this topic and getting games to use hte overclocked refresh rate. Here is a brief summery but you can find more detail by searching "force refresh" or "vsync" in this thread.
> 
> 1. having the refresh in the EDID by using CRU rather than NVCP
> 2. Using the catleap driver
> 3. Vsync will sync to the games standard refresh in most instances. There is a "preferred refresh" but it only works with 120hz to my knowledge.
> 4. Vsync in game and driver level can also differ so you may need to toggle them back and forth to see which one works.
> 5. 120hz /= 120FPS. Even is you turn off vsync and you exceed 60FPS it does not mean you are running at 120hz
> 6. If you google "force refresh" there is a lot off tutorials regarding getting higher refresh rates working with older and not natively compatible games(most involve config change at the file level)


While we are at it, in CRU where you manually define your custom pixel clocks and refresh rate it shows 96.002 Hz as actual refresh rate. Should I tweak my total pixels values so that it matches 96.000 or it doesn't really matter and I can aim for the lowest pixel clock possible?


----------



## Doofus McGwire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaze105*
> 
> Edit: Finally got it working. Had to reinstall Nvidia Driver and it suddenly turned on.


Ahhh good. I'm having the same problem that you had, but my episodes are occurring well past boot and are accompanied by all GPU fans going to 100%.
Temps are fine and stable throughout, so I hope my solution is the same as yours.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> I got a customs duty tax invoice from Fedex for $20.90
> 
> I was wondering has anyone else that bought one of these monitors that live in California got charged a customs duty tax?


I live in Cali, and I was not charged anything extra when Green sum shipped the monitor to me. He shipped it with UPS.


----------



## pac0tac0

here is my proof, ill get one of the monitor itself on here in a sec.
Bought it though dream seller, but they delayed a day when they sent it to me. But to win me over they gave me a 3 percent off coupon.... i dont know why they bothered hahaha. I received it in two days, apparently it shipped wensday and it got here thursday today.


----------



## DiceAir

Is there any disadvantages by trying 120hz. can it damage my monitor cause I was aiming at 96Hz but will love that preferred refresh rate option but I also think that doesn't work in SLi systems.


----------



## pac0tac0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Is there any disadvantages by trying 120hz. can it damage my monitor cause I was aiming at 96Hz but will love that preferred refresh rate option but I also think that doesn't work in SLi systems.


im curious of this as well, i would assume its possible to fry the board. i have heard of people having heat issues with their korean ips boards. Otherwise i would think it should be alright.

edit, i did just get mine and im running it just fine at 120hz out of the box.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Is there any disadvantages by trying 120hz. can it damage my monitor cause I was aiming at 96Hz but will love that preferred refresh rate option but I also think that doesn't work in SLi systems.


I've been running at 120HZ 24/7. Leaving no screen saver or power saving option. Seems great so far!!! No burn in or image retention either.

When I got my GTX 760, I remember reading that there was basically no chance of damage from overclocking your HZ.


----------



## fagoatse

Well, somehow after adding a custom resolution via CRU it can only be run in 16bit mode : /
edit: could it be my custom resolution colliding with it?
edit2: now even 16-bit disappeared oh well..
Now I remembered why I started using nvcpl instead.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Is there any disadvantages by trying 120hz. can it damage my monitor cause I was aiming at 96Hz but will love that preferred refresh rate option but I also think that doesn't work in SLi systems.


I hear the picture/gamma is affected when running at 120hz for some people. 96hz was supposed to be the sweet spot that everyone can hit without any issue.

I should get mine some time next week. I feel so dumb for buying so many TN panels if this monitor is truly as I've read. Gonna lose a lot of money reselling them.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Is there any disadvantages by trying 120hz. can it damage my monitor cause I was aiming at 96Hz but will love that preferred refresh rate option but I also think that doesn't work in SLi systems.


I have SLI and it works fine for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> While we are at it, in CRU where you manually define your custom pixel clocks and refresh rate it shows 96.002 Hz as actual refresh rate. Should I tweak my total pixels values so that it matches 96.000 or it doesn't really matter and I can aim for the lowest pixel clock possible?


Doesn't matter, mine is 120.00024 or something like that and it had no effect setting it directly to 120hz on the dote.


----------



## pac0tac0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I hear the picture/gamma is affected when running at 120hz for some people. 96hz was supposed to be the sweet spot that everyone can hit without any issue.
> 
> I should get mine some time next week. I feel so dumb for buying so many TN panels if this monitor is truly as I've read. Gonna lose a lot of money reselling them.


i feel so dumb for waiting as long as i did, this thing shoots my nice 27in samsung out of the water in terms of color, res, refresh rate, and size. Its so slender and clean cut i love it!


----------



## theilya

If I debezzle the monitor, will I still be able to attach it to VESA without making the custom board/glue thingy mentioned in the first post?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have SLI and it works fine for me.


I just tried 120hz and i get horizontal lines so it's a no go. Any other way of making my cards clock down and forcing the games to use my new refresh rate


----------



## pac0tac0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I just tried 120hz and i get horizontal lines so it's a no go. Any other way of making my cards clock down and forcing the games to use my new refresh rate


if your fps is higher than your refresh rate it does not matter, the monitor will only display as high as it supports. so if you have 96hz if you are getting 96 or above fps you will be using the optimum refresh rate, but if you want you can always set v sync and that will lock the fps so it does not go over your monitors refresh rate and it will try and hold the fps steady at your monitors refresh rate. Be warned though that setting v sync can cause you to expirence lower fps rates than if you were to just leave it off.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I just tried 120hz and i get horizontal lines so it's a no go. Any other way of making my cards clock down and forcing the games to use my new refresh rate


lower your pixel clock will most likely fix your issue here.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pac0tac0*
> 
> if your fps is higher than your refresh rate it does not matter


Except that's the cause of "screen tearing".


----------



## buffsportsman

Howdy all, I hope to be joining the club in late October/early November when the company I work for offers a buy-back program so I can buy up to $1500 of computer stuff and they reimburse me and then take it out of my check for the next year or so.









Just a couple questions in my preparation though; these power bricks with the monitors (such as this one which I plan to get) just have the standard computer power cords that can plug into it instead of using an adapter that plugs in to the wall, correct?

And also, is overclocking with the method in the OP the best/only way to do it? I see a lot of talk about settings that sound similar to some settings in CCC. And would the .icm files be something I use in CCC or in the Windows settings?

Thanks all, and hope to be joining sooner than later!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> lower your pixel clock will most likely fix your issue here.


How do I do that?


----------



## 187x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> I live in Cali, and I was not charged anything extra when Green sum shipped the monitor to me. He shipped it with UPS.


Really that's crazy! It's gotta be these sellers or carriers, but hey gotta look on the bright side at least it's no more than $21 dollars.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> If I debezzle the monitor, will I still be able to attach it to VESA without making the custom board/glue thingy mentioned in the first post?


The plastic bezzle is what holds it all together. Without that, you would need to modify the components as stated in the OP to hold it all together again


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> How do I do that?


Search "front porch" in this thread. There is one post in particular that has timings listed that i go into quite a bit of depth on how to do it(please do not just try my timings i have only found one other person that can run the same timings). Also the CRU thread with ToastyX has a lot of useful info on how to accomplish this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Except that's the cause of "screen tearing".


Yes it can unless you can keep the FPS at a multiple of your refresh. For example i run shadowrun with no Vsync but i set a config FPS limit to 240fps. This reduces the actual input lag of your input(mouse keyboard) and does make the picture seem to be a bit smoother(even if it is an illusion). I have been doing this for a while now and before i would run 60hz at 120fps. You do have to maintain that fps though to get any benefit because any jumps will result in tearing and throwing off your input. This is also greatly improved by the "presented frames in advance setting", setting pointer acceleration or precession off, and setting the mouse pointer speed to 6 or native(in relation to the DPI).


----------



## gl0ry

So how ugly/noticeable is the bezel in person? I have to say from the pictures, the debezled one looks a billion times better (plastic glossy bezel looks gaudy and cheap), but I don't really plan on doing it as I lack the resources and experience in doing such a thing.

I plan on mounting the monitors on VESA compatible arms. I know I have to open up the bezel just to remove the stem though, hope it's not too daunting.


----------



## iCrap

Why does the color of the monitor change when i OC it? It seems to have a blueish tint when i change to 110hz


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *187x*
> 
> Really that's crazy! It's gotta be these sellers or carriers, but hey gotta look on the bright side at least it's no more than $21 dollars.


Might be a Fedex thing? Green-sum shipped mine UPS. Not sure how it was shipped for AznCQ. I know when I ship outside the US, Fedex charges a flat customs fee to the buyer. UPS does too but they may waive the fee for US customers or for UPS Global Express Saver, which is how mine was sent. You could always ask Fedex and find out what's up. I buy so much crap overseas(hundreds of items) and have yet to pay any fees. Still never got a package international from Fedex though.


----------



## Sunii

Very excited to get my Qnix today (Ordered from Green-Sum). Only found 1 dead pixel so far. However I wasn't sure whether it was my phone or not, but when I tested for back light bleeding it seemed very minimal looking through my eyes. Although my phone showed this after taking a picture. Trust my eyes or my phone? Also would this be considered severe back light bleeding? Thanks :]

Edit: Added in a few more pictures.


----------



## jriley9922

I just got my QX2710 from greesum on ebay... i bought the basic $289 dollar matte finish... i had ZERO dead pixels and ZERO bleeding. Fantastic!

*****the rest of this post is just jibber jabber about FPS stuff for those that care*****

I used the toastyX method and was able to reach 110hz on the included cable.
I didn't bother going for 120hz, b/c others have noted t he included cable is rubbish past 110hz.

I ordered a monoprice 24agw cable. I could have tried 120hz, but i was too anxious to get into some games.

I must note... that i followed the toastyx methods for the patcher and using CRU, with the catleap 120hz driver.... but the refresh rates were not showing up in my nvidia control panel/windows screen resolution screens.
However, after patching, i was able to enter in NVIDIA control panel a 'custom resolution' and first went 2560x1440 90hz, then up to 110hz.

after creating those and applying, i tested with a refresh rate tester, no issues.
then also using 'adaptive vsync' (maxes your FPS to whatever your refresh is) in nvidia panel and turning game settings to lowest... i was indeed pulling those refresh rates. no issues.
I will test 120hz once i get the upgraded cable.

I tested on my old rig, i7 920/ GTX580 supercooled superclocked... in bioshock ultimate, i was able to pull a solid 60fps on Very High at 2560x1440. (ultra seemed to sag down to 45ish)
LOOKED AMAZINGGGGGG. then i set it to low just to crank out 110fps with adaptive vsync... no problem.

Currently building a new rig with crossfire 7950 xfx black editions... (they were under $200 with v.me promo code and mail in rebate this week on newegg... i couldnt resist!)


----------



## jriley9922

are you using Vsync in the game, or NVIDIA control panel?

What i've found, is leave it OFF in all of your in-game settings.... in the NVIDIA control panel, it's under "3d settings" - very last setting, set it to "adaptive" that sets the Vsync globally to whatever your monitor refresh rate is set at within the control panel.

(3d settings in that instance does not mean Nvidia 3d vision, just 3d in the old-sense of hte word, so basically 'gaming')

I just got mine, set it all up, and adaptive vsync was working perfectly with my qx2710 at 90hz and then up at 110hz)


----------



## frozen60

The included cable with my Qnix works at 120Hz on automatic / cvt reduced.


----------



## Ricey20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I think I've decided to go with dreamseller on ebay with the "perfect pixel" guarantee. Seems like most people have good luck with that.
> 
> From the research I've done in the past couple of hours, matte seems to be the preferred choice.


Dream seller's pixel perfect policy is 1-2 stuck or dead pixels. Not exactly perfect and wish they stated it somewhere in their ad. Friend of mine got the PP and found 2 bad pixels, one of which was a stuck pixel near the center of the screen. He contacted them about getting an exchange but that's what they told him. Pretty shady tactic. I also got a PP from them and I have one dead pixel at the very bottom right of the screen so it's not a big deal for me but still disappointing.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricey20*
> 
> Dream seller's pixel perfect policy is 1-2 stuck or dead pixels. Not exactly perfect and wish they stated it somewhere in their ad. Friend of mine got the PP and found 2 bad pixels, one of which was a stuck pixel near the center of the screen. He contacted them about getting an exchange but that's what they told him. Pretty shady tactic. I also got a PP from them and I have one dead pixel at the very bottom right of the screen so it's not a big deal for me but still disappointing.


I read that, but without PP you have a higher chance to get dead pixels of greater quantity. Other vendors are the same. On amazon if you buy a PP they actually say you can get up to 5 dead pixels..

Just reading from the feedback on this thread it seems most people aren't getting dead pixels with dreamseller PP's, but you just stated otherwise. I hope I don't get any.

How long did it take to get yours from dream-seller?


----------



## Ricey20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I read that, but without PP you have a higher chance to get dead pixels of greater quantity. Other vendors are the same. On amazon if you buy a PP they actually say you can get up to 5 dead pixels..
> 
> Just reading from the feedback on this thread it seems most people aren't getting dead pixels with dreamseller PP's, but you just stated otherwise. I hope I don't get any.
> 
> How long did it take to get yours from dream-seller?


It took exactly a week from date ordered for me, but I live in Hawaii so they have to send it from CA to here. I think most get there's withint 4-5 days.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ricey20*
> 
> It took exactly a week from date ordered for me, but I live in Hawaii so they have to send it from CA to here. I think most get there's withint 4-5 days.


Now I find a user on ebay that guarantees 0 dead pixels, but it costs about 70 dollars more per monitor. Now you have me freaking out about getting a monitor with dead pixels and I think it might be too late to cancel my order. I don't even know if he shipped it out yet.


----------



## zazzn

Wait you guys got green-sum monitions recently? I ordered mine on the 15th and was told they were out of stock and that Green-sum was out on vacation or some crap and wouldn't be able to ship till the 26th?

?


----------



## andygully

anyone tried the amd patch on the 13.8 beta 2 drivers? and does it work?


----------



## SpareParts

Hello i got my x-star today and i am happy so far, (can't wait for calibrating & overclocking)

Ebay seller: dream-seller
Perfect Pixel
Matte
Paid 307.90 USD

Order on Sunday and was delivered in Thursday, (Dallas, TX) even got a 3% off for the next purchase.

im coming from 3 dells 2408wfp 16:10 1920 X 1200 , was i little worry for a 16:9 panel but so far is not so bad.

i have included a few pics below.

IMG_20130823_012618.jpg 2379k .jpg file


IMG_20130822_181841.jpg 2825k .jpg file


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> Wait you guys got green-sum monitions recently? I ordered mine on the 15th and was told they were out of stock and that Green-sum was out on vacation or some crap and wouldn't be able to ship till the 26th?
> 
> ?


Yeah, I got mine yesterday, they shipped it this monday.


----------



## DiceAir

Is there any disadvantages of doing this http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/7947-force-dvi-hdmi-resolutions-refresh-rates.html


----------



## Sunii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> anyone tried the amd patch on the 13.8 beta 2 drivers? and does it work?


If you are talking about the AMD Patch for OCing your Monitor then I can confirm that 13.8 Beta 2 drivers worked just fine for me with the patch.


----------



## LMka

Now, I have already purchased and waiting QNIX 2710 for 289 $, when all the latest discussion and buzz about Crossover 2735 after the overclockers.ru review confused me.
Review:
http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/55641/Na_zavist_Applefanam._Obzor_i_testirovanie_korejskogo_monitora_Crossover_2735AMG.html

You can translate it in English.

Even MenacingTtuba is now recommending getting Crossover 2735 over the QNIX 2710:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1400740/crossover-black-tune-2735amg-2755amg-achieva-shimian-qh2700-lite-edge-club/190

Is it really worth 100 $ more for the Crossover 2735?


----------



## jezzer

How big of a chance is there to get a unit with 0 dead pixels and 0 backlight bleed when getting a qnix pls?


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> How big of a chance is there to get a unit with 0 dead pixels and 0 backlight bleed when getting a qnix pls?


90% have backlight bleed, 50% have no dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LMka*
> 
> Now, I have already purchased and waiting QNIX 2710 for 289 $, when all the latest discussion and buzz about Crossover 2735 after the overclockers.ru review confused me.
> Review:
> http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/55641/Na_zavist_Applefanam._Obzor_i_testirovanie_korejskogo_monitora_Crossover_2735AMG.html
> 
> You can translate it in English.
> 
> Even MenacingTtuba is now recommending getting Crossover 2735 over the QNIX 2710:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1400740/crossover-black-tune-2735amg-2755amg-achieva-shimian-qh2700-lite-edge-club/190
> 
> Is it really worth 100 $ more for the Crossover 2735?


Did you read this part?

*1.) Do you want to overclock?*
2.) Are you sensitive to LED PWM Dimming? Read about LED PWM Dimming here
3.) Do you want a glossy monitor?

If your answers are

1.) No
2.) Yes
3.) Yes

Get the Crossover 2735AMG


----------



## DiceAir

I've noticed. unreal engine 3 is a ctually 120hz just that they smooth it out to 62 fps. funny though but it works. I just have to run a config to get my games to run 120hz. Hope the newer games will run @ 120hz. Also tested splinter cell blacklist and must say epic game and I can run full gfx without aa at over 60FPS. If I only had better cooling in my case I could over clock my cards further and get closer to 96FPS in most games. I still feel it's not worth upgrading from 570 sli setup if you have these monitors.

BTW is it ok for my GPU to run full clocks 24/7?


----------



## jriley9922

why are your GPUs running full clock 24/7? Are you gaming 24/7? lol
as soon as you exit out of a game, your GPU's will scale back to nearly 0%......

if you're not using Vsync, then they're running full clock in games for no reason (assuming you have a 60hz monitor)
You cant use over 60fps if your monitor is 60hz... hence vsync existence.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jriley9922*
> 
> why are your GPUs running full clock 24/7? Are you gaming 24/7? lol
> as soon as you exit out of a game, your GPU's will scale back to nearly 0%......
> 
> if you're not using Vsync, then they're running full clock in games for no reason (assuming you have a 60hz monitor)
> You cant use over 60fps if your monitor is 60hz... hence vsync existence.


I meant it's not downclocking. not running at 99% load...lol. I'm using vsync in games dude. and i'm running 96hz

I meant it's in 3d clock 24/7


----------



## Jaeflash

Just ordered a matte X-Star from Dream Seller. It's exactly the model I wanted, and I lucked out. He still has them at $279. Anyone have any experience with what method Dream Seller ships to SoCal and how long it took to get it?


----------



## Doofus McGwire

Very much enjoying this beautiful piece of gear along with my SLI'd 760s, but I've run into an incredibly annoying problems.

My QNIX 27" 2560x1440 randomly goes into stand-by mode, and the only way to get video back is to reboot. This has happened most frequently at steady-state (no foreground programs or apps running), but a few times it has also gone into stand-by while loading web pages or when I open the CPU-Z and Core Temp tools, for example.

Any ideas why this is happening?

I thought it was b/c I was running an "uneven" triple monitor set up of [1920x1080] - [2560x1440] - [1920x1080], but I've disco'd the two 1920s, and still, the 2560x1440 all by itself (as the only monitor in use) still goes into stand-by under the conditions mentioned above.

FWIW, I have the 320.49 drivers for my GPU, and I haven't OC'd the monitor at all.
I did pull in the ASUS profile though, could that be the problem. Maybe I didn't do it completely or correctly?
Could the SLI setup be screwing things up? I can go single-card for a stretch and see if there's any difference, of course.


----------



## Darknight1

A follow up to my backlight issue, green-sum said they needed a bunch of high-resolution photos and were going to open a claim with UPS. Sigh.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaeflash*
> 
> Just ordered a matte X-Star from Dream Seller. It's exactly the model I wanted, and I lucked out. He still has them at $279. Anyone have any experience with what method Dream Seller ships to SoCal and how long it took to get it?


He seems very slow just based on what experience I have with him. I'm trying to cancel an order with him because I wanted to get a pixel perfect version from another dealer who guarantees 0 dead pixels.

Dream-seller hasn't refunded me yet and it's already been over 10 hours since he said he'd refund me.

Speaking of, is Pixel-Perfect worth it if the seller guarantees 0 dead pixels? Price is 359, which is about 60-70 dollars more per monitor give or take.


----------



## xlim3y

Got my Qnix 2710 from Green Sum last night.

Zero dead/stuck pixels (I did not pay for pixel perfect), very minimal backlight bleed (and I can only see it if I'm on a pure black background). It also easily clocks to 120hz, but I hate how dark it gets, so I'm still working on the icc profiles to find one that makes it bearable

It's gorgeous. For $270, it was an amazing purchase.

I want to find some pictures that will really show off the color ability of the monitors. Anyone have a few recommendations? (I've checked google image search, I was looking for more specifics)

Thanks!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

There are links to 1440P collections at various sites in post #1 of this thread. Though another guy here awesomely made and uploaded a .zip of many great ones from all of them which is a huge timesaver for others. It may be linked in the OP; if not I can upload to my Skydrive later for you. Happy to help a bloke from the UK!


----------



## gl0ry

No one has answered this question yet,

How annoying/ugly is the bezel in person? In pictures, debezeled looks a billion times better, but if it isn't bothersome then I probably wouldn't go through the hassle of trying to modify anything other than taking out the stem.


----------



## pac0tac0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> No one has answered this question yet,
> 
> How annoying/ugly is the bezel in person? In pictures, debezeled looks a billion times better, but if it isn't bothersome then I probably wouldn't go through the hassle of trying to modify anything other than taking out the stem.


i like my xstar bezel i prefer it over my old samsung.


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> No one has answered this question yet,
> 
> How annoying/ugly is the bezel in person? In pictures, debezeled looks a billion times better, but if it isn't bothersome then I probably wouldn't go through the hassle of trying to modify anything other than taking out the stem.


That's opinion really matter.. everyone will have a different answer. You'd really just need to find out for yourself.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah IMO the worst part of the bezel is that it's glossy and my screen is matte.


----------



## xlim3y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> There are links to 1440P collections at various sites in post #1 of this thread. Though another guy here awesomely made and uploaded a .zip of many great ones from all of them which is a huge timesaver for others. It may be linked in the OP; if not I can upload to my Skydrive later for you. Happy to help a bloke from the UK!


I've been looking through some of the listed sites, and I've found a few good ones. But yes, the .zip would be much appreciated. I didn't see a link to it, so I'd be quite grateful if you could link it for me.

Thanks mate!


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlim3y*
> 
> I've been looking through some of the listed sites, and I've found a few good ones. But yes, the .zip would be much appreciated. I didn't see a link to it, so I'd be quite grateful if you could link it for me.
> 
> Thanks mate!


Did you get an import invoice?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I meant it's not downclocking. not running at 99% load...lol. I'm using vsync in games dude. and i'm running 96hz
> 
> I meant it's in 3d clock 24/7


If you're running at 96Hz then your video card won't downclock (my experience). Unless I'm gaming I run at 60Hz, and the cards downclock fine.

Here's a thread to help you with downclocking and P states:
http://www.overclock.net/t/964370/howto-dual-monitor-downclocking-fix-for-nvidia-cards/0_40


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> He seems very slow just based on what experience I have with him. I'm trying to cancel an order with him because I wanted to get a pixel perfect version from another dealer who guarantees 0 dead pixels.
> 
> Dream-seller hasn't refunded me yet and it's already been over 10 hours since he said he'd refund me.
> 
> Speaking of, is Pixel-Perfect worth it if the seller guarantees 0 dead pixels? Price is 359, which is about 60-70 dollars more per monitor give or take.


After seeing what a dead pixel looks like on my friend's Qnix, I decided not to pay for pixel perfect. Bright pixel would annoy me but dead pixels are really not that noticeable on these panels imho. I guess if it was in the center maybe I would care a little... I'm a little more tolerant than most though. My current monitor has severe BLB according to other posters here and I don't mind it. I currently have the monoprice 27" 1440 IPS


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> If you're running at 96Hz then your video card won't downclock (my experience). Unless I'm gaming I run at 60Hz, and the cards downclock fine.
> 
> Here's a thread to help you with downclocking and P states:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/964370/howto-dual-monitor-downclocking-fix-for-nvidia-cards/0_40


Untrue, my gtx 680 goes down just fine to P8 which is 0.978 V and 324 MHz on both core and memory.


----------



## Sunii

Here to enter the club! I bought the a normal matte Qnix from Green-Sum for about $270. The monitor has minimum black light bleeding and 1 dead pixel from what I found! It took about 1-2ish days for them to ship it out and it got here in less than a week. I've also heard good customer services from Green-Sum as well, so it made me lean towards to buy theirs (Not to mention it's the cheapest I believe).

Picture:


----------



## theilya

EDIT:
Having issues with SC2 and SLI.
The korean monitor will go blank when i go into SC2 in SLI mode.


----------



## Doofus McGwire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doofus McGwire*
> 
> Very much enjoying this beautiful piece of gear along with my SLI'd 760s, but I've run into an incredibly annoying problems.
> 
> My QNIX 27" 2560x1440 randomly goes into stand-by mode, and the only way to get video back is to reboot. This has happened most frequently at steady-state (no foreground programs or apps running), but a few times it has also gone into stand-by while loading web pages or when I open the CPU-Z and Core Temp tools, for example.
> 
> Any ideas why this is happening?
> 
> I thought it was b/c I was running an "uneven" triple monitor set up of [1920x1080] - [2560x1440] - [1920x1080], but I've disco'd the two 1920s, and still, the 2560x1440 all by itself (as the only monitor in use) still goes into stand-by under the conditions mentioned above.
> 
> FWIW, I have the 320.49 drivers for my GPU, and I haven't OC'd the monitor at all.
> I did pull in the ASUS profile though, could that be the problem. Maybe I didn't do it completely or correctly?
> Could the SLI setup be screwing things up? I can go single-card for a stretch and see if there's any difference, of course.


Ugh. I'm a dummy. Thought I scrubbed all 600 pages, but I see back on page 498 or so references to this problem.
It's on NVidia to address via updated drivers.

Edit: Oh snap...Tue 8/20's 326.80 beta might do it.

_Changes and Fixed Issues in Version 326.80
The following sections list the important changes and the most common issues resolved
since version 326.41. This list is only a subset of the total number of changes made in this
driver version. The NVIDIA bug number is provided for reference.
Windows Vista/Windows 7/Windows 8/Windows 8.1 Fixed
Issues
 Some 27" 1440p monitors with Korean B grade panels are not detected. [1329305]_


----------



## Aflac

Hey guys,

I've had my monitor for a few weeks now and I really am amazed at how nice it is. One thing I do notice, and maybe I'm making a bigger deal out of it than I should but the BLB at the bottom centre is quite noticeable on dark backgrounds.

Would it be worth trying the tape fix listed on the first page??

I'd like to get rid of it if iI could. I tried playing wiht the screws on the back but it only made it worse.


----------



## Aflac

Hey guys,

I've had my monitor for a few weeks now and I really am amazed at how nice it is. One thing I do notice, and maybe I'm making a bigger deal out of it than I should but the BLB at the bottom centre is quite noticeable on dark backgrounds.

Would it be worth trying the tape fix listed on the first page??

I'd like to get rid of it if iI could. I tried playing wiht the screws on the back but it only made it worse.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> Untrue, my gtx 680 goes down just fine to P8 which is 0.978 V and 324 MHz on both core and memory.


True. There are a lot of variables -- SLI, multi-monitor etc. etc.

My point was that it doesn't necessarily mean anything wrong if it won't downclock at 96Hz.

DiceAir doesn't have a sig rig so I don't know if (s)he's running SLI, multiple monitors, what video card etc.

Edit:
DiceAir is running SLI GTX570s. I am running SLI GTX580s. When I'm at 96Hz my cards don't downclock either (though I'm running 2 monitors). But one of my cards does downclock at 60Hz (with SLI one card will always stay at full clocks).

So that's normal behavior on a GTX5xx SLI setup at 96Hz.


----------



## jayhay

All 500 series cards won't downclock when the monitor is oc'd. It's in the nv patcher notes.


----------



## Kwisatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aflac*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've had my monitor for a few weeks now and I really am amazed at how nice it is. One thing I do notice, and maybe I'm making a bigger deal out of it than I should but the BLB at the bottom centre is quite noticeable on dark backgrounds.
> 
> Would it be worth trying the tape fix listed on the first page??
> 
> I'd like to get rid of it if iI could. I tried playing wiht the screws on the back but it only made it worse.


Take a look at page #601 of this thread. You'll find some info to help you decide.


----------



## frozen60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doofus McGwire*
> 
> Ugh. I'm a dummy. Thought I scrubbed all 600 pages, but I see back on page 498 or so references to this problem.
> It's on NVidia to address via updated drivers.
> 
> Edit: Oh snap...Tue 8/20's 326.80 beta might do it.
> 
> _Changes and Fixed Issues in Version 326.80
> The following sections list the important changes and the most common issues resolved
> since version 326.41. This list is only a subset of the total number of changes made in this
> driver version. The NVIDIA bug number is provided for reference.
> Windows Vista/Windows 7/Windows 8/Windows 8.1 Fixed
> Issues
>  Some 27" 1440p monitors with Korean B grade panels are not detected. [1329305]_


I'm using Nvidia drivers 320.49 for my gigabyte 760s SLI and I dont have those problems.
My Qnix is overclocked to 120Hz on auto/cvt_reduced settings.

The way I set it up was by applying the full-nvidia patch, then installing catleap drivers for my monitor, and finally creating the profile using NVidia control panel.
I had to use the second DVI port on the graphics card because a minor line would occasionally appear. Therefore, I had to reinstall the monitor driver since I changed the dvi port.
Finally, I plug in my secondary monitor and setup my desktop the way I want it, in terms of positioning and gamma.

EDIT: Don't forget to remove your GPU overclocks before you do this.


----------



## Doofus McGwire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frozen60*
> 
> I'm using Nvidia drivers 320.49 for my gigabyte 760s SLI and I dont have those problems.
> My Qnix is overclocked to 120Hz on auto/cvt_reduced settings.
> 
> The way I set it up was by applying the full-nvidia patch, then installing catleap drivers for my monitor, and finally creating the profile using NVidia control panel.
> I had to use the second DVI port on the graphics card because a minor line would occasionally appear. Therefore, I had to reinstall the monitor driver since I changed the dvi port.
> Finally, I plug in my secondary monitor and setup my desktop the way I want it, in terms of positioning and gamma.
> 
> EDIT: Don't forget to remove your GPU overclocks before you do this.


Thanks for the info.









Very strange.
My set-up was giving me the blank screen before I could even OC the monitor, but maybe I should just proceed with the normal/your OC procedure, which may solve the problem itself?
I think I'll do that 2nd. Rolling back 326.80 should be painless enough, if it doesn't solve the problem.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> After seeing what a dead pixel looks like on my friend's Qnix, I decided not to pay for pixel perfect. Bright pixel would annoy me but dead pixels are really not that noticeable on these panels imho. I guess if it was in the center maybe I would care a little... I'm a little more tolerant than most though. My current monitor has severe BLB according to other posters here and I don't mind it. I currently have the monoprice 27" 1440 IPS


Oh yeah? I'll have to think about it then!


----------



## Agenesis

Just got mine today, it has a yellow tint to it that looks like I'm wearing those silly gunnar glasses. I'm not even sure if it's fixable.


----------



## WOD35

^

Be sure to read the Color Calibration Profiles and How to install them (Click to show)

under *Monitor Fixes, Support, Help* in the OP


----------



## XCII

Just got mine but it's only showing a blank screen. It showed the windows 8 logo for a second but nothing since.
Any ideas?


----------



## milan616

You might have GPU scaling turned off in your driver options.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milan616*
> 
> You might have GPU scaling turned off in your driver options.


This could be part of it if he has an AMD card. Nvidia has it on by default.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCII*
> 
> Just got mine but it's only showing a blank screen. It showed the windows 8 logo for a second but nothing since.
> Any ideas?


Try connecting it as a secondary monitor and then extending it. If it works then make it the primary display.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doofus McGwire*
> 
> I think I might be stable now...pre OC...with no blank screens for the last 9 hrs.
> The 326.80 drivers (Korean panel B fix) seemed to have resolved my problem.


Great feedback. I am waiting for toasty 's patch to officially support those drivers then i am going to switch over too. Maybe even try and push the overclock a bit further.


----------



## Doofus McGwire

I think I might be stable now...pre OC...with no blank screens for the last 9 hrs.
The 326.80 drivers (Korean panel B fix) seemed to have resolved my problem.


----------



## apav

Strange. I was messing around with my timings before, and I could change the "total" vertical lines to as low as 1445, but after changing the timings a couple times and restarting, the lowest it will accept (it'll be red if I go lower) is 1449. I was using these timings before just fine:



and now this is the lowest I can go:


I think lowering my timings solved my screen flicker issue though.

Is there any difference between the timings if the pixel clock is the same? Like if I wanted to get 450MHz, there's 2 different combinations of settings (backporch, blanking, total) I can use to get 450MHz. But if they both have a pixel clock of 450MHz, are they any different?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> True. There are a lot of variables -- SLI, multi-monitor etc. etc.
> 
> My point was that it doesn't necessarily mean anything wrong if it won't downclock at 96Hz.
> 
> DiceAir doesn't have a sig rig so I don't know if (s)he's running SLI, multiple monitors, what video card etc.
> 
> Edit:
> DiceAir is running SLI GTX570s. I am running SLI GTX580s. When I'm at 96Hz my cards don't downclock either (though I'm running 2 monitors). But one of my cards does downclock at 60Hz (with SLI one card will always stay at full clocks).
> 
> So that's normal behavior on a GTX5xx SLI setup at 96Hz.


Lol not running multiple monitors


----------



## milan616

Anyone else have their Qnix power LED die on them? It was flickering all night, and now it's finally just off. Weird.


----------



## DiceAir

So i managed to get 120hz using this settings http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18511914

is there any settings that's a bit on the dangerous side. What should I be look out for when playing games. I also have the nvidia settings now that's awesome so now I can run 60Hz deskop and 120hz in games I think still have to test.

Edit: So i tried that and still get vertical lines in games only. any tips for me


----------



## XCII

_You might have GPU scaling turned off in your driver options._

Where do I go to find driver options?

_Try connecting it as a secondary monitor and then extending it. If it works then make it the primary display._

Still no luck. Just a blank screen.

Anyone else?
I'm running out of ideas.


----------



## Kaze105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCII*
> 
> _You might have GPU scaling turned off in your driver options._
> 
> Where do I go to find driver options?
> 
> _Try connecting it as a secondary monitor and then extending it. If it works then make it the primary display._
> 
> Still no luck. Just a blank screen.
> 
> Anyone else?
> I'm running out of ideas.


If you did connect 2 monitors, try updating or reinstalling your nvidia drivers to newest one. (Also try the beta if it doesnt work)


----------



## TrevJonez

Designing an Aluminum housing for this thing so I don't have to epoxy a piece of plywood to my panel. though it wont be true vesa. the threads will be 10-32 because i don't have any M3 press in nuts









Need to go to work and get better numbers on the PCB so i can incorporate the pcb standoff mounts into my back panel.

Hopefully I will have 3 of these made and painted tonight.


----------



## asdfdsaf

So I bought a X-star monitor however the brightness button don't work however the decreasing the brightness does work, but I set it a little to low and now I can't increase the brightness with the increase button. What are possible fixes?


----------



## jayhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Designing an Aluminum housing for this thing so I don't have to epoxy a piece of plywood to my panel. though it wont be true vesa. the threads will be 10-32 because i don't have any M3 press in nuts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to go to work and get better numbers on the PCB so i can incorporate the pcb standoff mounts into my back panel.
> 
> Hopefully I will have 3 of these made and painted tonight.


Whoa, nice man! If they come out nice, you should make extra. I'd probably buy one


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> I had the same amount of BLB on my X-Star, with the same distribution of bleeding, only upside-down. I consider this intolerable BLB, but I'd be curious to know what other, more experienced users are thinking about it (I never had those issues with my TN panel before).
> 
> I was able to fix most of the BLB using the tape method that is being suggested at the front page of this thread and a few youtube videos on how to open up the monitor. Feel free to ask if you need any help. Now, the bleed that emited from the center (which is at the top in your case, was at the bottom in mine) is all but gone. I don't even notice the remaining BLB, not even when playing dark games like Dishonored at night.
> 
> This is the BLB _after_ the tape fix. Mind you, the photo was taken with long exposure time, so the BLB looks worse than it actually is. Also, I didn't bother taping the upper part of the screen back then, which is probably the reason why there's still a decent amount of BLB there. I might get to it when I find the nerve and time...
> 
> 
> If you don't want to take the risk of breaking something while using the tape mod, I'd seriously consider a refund or exchange on the sellers expense.


Okay, I think i'm going to try the tape mod. I've looked in the FAQ and it's a bit vague. I see how to open the monitor, but where exactly do you tape? Between the glass LCD panel and the metal frame? I wonder if putting a bead of black silicone or similar would block more. Could make a mess though.


----------



## TrevJonez

typical lazy me decided to ditch the odd angle back design and go to a much simplified two box design similar to the factory x-star design. Still as small as i feel safe with but MUCH easier to bend and assemble for a nice consistent clean look.

Going to go spin up the cnc and start cutting i'll post some photo's after i mock up the first one. if everything goes smoothly I'll make two more and paint them up.

White lines are the pcb sizing and holes.

yellow lines are the 1/16" aluminum

blue dotted lines are bend lines.

as long as the cables are long enough I will be able to make the hook up points be on the left side or right side depending on how you screw together the two parts.


----------



## Kwisatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> Okay, I think i'm going to try the tape mod. I've looked in the FAQ and it's a bit vague. I see how to open the monitor, but where exactly do you tape? Between the glass LCD panel and the metal frame? I wonder if putting a bead of black silicone or similar would block more. Could make a mess though.


It's kinda hard to explain... Once you debezeled the monitor (meaning the metal bezel), you tape the part of the bezel that makes contact with your Panel, like explained in this vid: 




@wntrsnowg or moderator: could you include this vid in the BLB-fix section of the OP? I found it very helpful and the present description _is_ very vague.

The vid is from a 17 piece series, showing all kinds of dismantling the monitor, you won't need all of it, but some parts can be quite helpful (like were to pop the plastic frame to open up the monitor and such).

Here's the whole thing:


----------



## XCII

I tried new drivers and old drivers. I can move around on the screen but I can't see what I'm doing because it's still blank.
I have no idea what to do now.


----------



## Solstice11

Here's my verification post for my X-Star. BTW I love it!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> Okay, I think i'm going to try the tape mod. I've looked in the FAQ and it's a bit vague. I see how to open the monitor, but where exactly do you tape? Between the glass LCD panel and the metal frame? I wonder if putting a bead of black silicone or similar would block more. Could make a mess though.
> 
> 
> 
> It's kinda hard to explain... Once you debezeled the monitor (meaning the metal bezel), you tape the part of the bezel that makes contact with your Panel, like explained in this vid:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *@wntrsnowg or moderator: could you include this vid in the BLB-fix section of the OP? I found it very helpful and the present description is very vague.*
> 
> The vid is from a 17 piece series, showing all kinds of dismantling the monitor, you won't need all of it, but some parts can be quite helpful (like were to pop the plastic frame to open up the monitor and such).
> 
> Here's the whole thing:
Click to expand...

I agree, very vague. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

edit: i already have that youtube playlist under that section


----------



## zazzn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Yeah, I got mine yesterday, they shipped it this monday.


Crap mine was dream seller, i've been waiting over a week they said they can't ship till the 26th... this blow arse.
Big cloth was like 3 days from buying to my door!


----------



## KoolKoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> Crap mine was dream seller, i've been waiting over a week they said they can't ship till the 26th... this blow arse.
> Big cloth was like 3 days from buying to my door!


I think it's because of the influx of orders they have trouble keeping up. Due to the $260 price. Mine was shipped on this Friday the 23rd estimated to arrive this Thrusday the 29th. I ordered it on the 17th didn't ship till the 23rd. I'm super excited tho


----------



## Kwisatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I agree, very vague. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
> 
> edit: i already have that youtube playlist under that section


Ooops, sorry, my bad! I don't know how I could have missed that! Btw, kudos for this thread, if it wasn't for you I might still be staring at that nasty BLB in despair.


----------



## zazzn

260! I paid 289


----------



## Deluxe

You guys think the tape mod would be able to solve any of this?
It's not as bad as it looks on the photo, but the left bottom corner is most annoying.
It's because the frame is slightly bent there.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well in that case you want to try and straighten the frame too with some kind of roller or something flat and heavy...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> 260! I paid 289


Hah whatevs I paid $317 months ago.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> You guys think the tape mod would be able to solve any of this?
> It's not as bad as it looks on the photo, but the left bottom corner is most annoying.
> It's because the frame is slightly bent there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Once you are at the steps to do the tape mod you should just bend the frame back instead. I think the frame is removed to do the tape mod


----------



## tomKPZ

So I bought an X-Star for $259 from dream-seller about a week ago, and it's supposedly shipping tomorrow, the 26th. I'm dying in anticipation, and I'm preemptively expecting back light bleed. Is there an actual guide to fixing back light bleed, like a video or something, rather than the nondescript pictures in the main post?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> So I bought an X-Star for $259 from dream-seller about a week ago, and it's supposedly shipping tomorrow, the 26th. I'm dying in anticipation, and I'm preemptively expecting back light bleed. Is there an actual guide to fixing back light bleed, like a video or something, rather than the nondescript pictures in the main post?






overkill, but sorry I had to lol


----------



## ronquilent

To be fair, the video playlist for fixing backlight bleed doesn't exactly provide a clear/to-the-point visual explanation of how the process works.


----------



## tomKPZ

That genuinely made me laugh









Thanks for the info wntrsnowg!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronquilent*
> 
> To be fair, the video playlist for fixing backlight bleed doesn't exactly provide a clear/to-the-point visual explanation of how the process works.


if you watch all the videos, they walk you through the entire process

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> That genuinely made me laugh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info wntrsnowg!


Hah youre welcome. call me cptn overkill


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> Disregard.


this is only 1920x1080 and multiple input. No thanks you


----------



## MenacingTuba

Might be wise to change the Thread title to *Official Korean PLS Club: Read The First Page*


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> Crap mine was dream seller, i've been waiting over a week they said they can't ship till the 26th... this blow arse.
> Big cloth was like 3 days from buying to my door!


Dream-seller was a horrible experience for me as well. He had almost no communication with me and ignored most of my messages.

Granted he gave me a refund on an order I cancelled... it took him 4 1/2 days though. I even called his phone number in South Korea and some woman answered it, hung up on me because she didn't understand English.


----------



## qnoxluke

My qnix 2710 arrived today everything looked great, but after i plugged it in and powered up my pc nothing much happened. The display blinked white once and then went blank. The power led doesnt even light up. The power supply seems to work fine measured 12 v with a multimeter. I contacted green-sum about it.
Any ideas what the problem could be?


----------



## Doofus McGwire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qnoxluke*
> 
> My qnix 2710 arrived today everything looked great, but after i plugged it in and powered up my pc nothing much happened. The display blinked white once and then went blank. The power led doesnt even light up. The power supply seems to work fine measured 12 v with a multimeter. I contacted green-sum about it.
> Any ideas what the problem could be?


Damn. That sounds pretty awful.
Double-check that you are connected to your vcard's DVI-D dual port? Seems obvious, I know...
Otherwise, uninstall drivers, discon any other monitors, shut down, connect QNIX, start...if you have a visual then re-install drivers.
If you have Nvidia, the 326.80 beta drivers worked out great for me.


----------



## LMka

I received mine today. I bought it from green-sum the matte version for 289 dollars. I've briefly checked it and it has 0 dead pixels and a very slight back light bleeding at the bottom but I almost not noticing it so I guess I keep it as it is. However, when I lower the brightness to minimum I can see some stripes going on the screen which are not so bad but noticable, is this what is called PWM?


----------



## qnoxluke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doofus McGwire*
> 
> Damn. That sounds pretty awful.
> Double-check that you are connected to your vcard's DVI-D dual port? Seems obvious, I know...
> Otherwise, uninstall drivers, discon any other monitors, shut down, connect QNIX, start...if you have a visual then re-install drivers.
> If you have Nvidia, the 326.80 beta drivers worked out great for me.


I am using a MSI 7850.
Tried using it as a secondary monitor together with my tv. It showed up in the windows screen resolution window as a 2560x1440 DVI screen, but again showed no picture or power led. I enabled GPU scaling and disconnected the tv started with only the qnix connected no difference. deinstalling drivers didn't help either.


----------



## Bethamon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qnoxluke*
> 
> My qnix 2710 arrived today everything looked great, but after i plugged it in and powered up my pc nothing much happened. The display blinked white once and then went blank. The power led doesnt even light up. The power supply seems to work fine measured 12 v with a multimeter. I contacted green-sum about it.
> Any ideas what the problem could be?


I am afraid to say but it sounds like your monitor broke off right atm when you turned it on.


----------



## Bethamon

I received my Qnix QX2710 Evo2 today. No dead pixels, stable up to 133Hz and no blacklight bleeding I could notice.
Very fast delivery, good communication with ebay seller "items_dealer".


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bethamon*
> 
> I received my Qnix QX2710 Evo2 today. No dead pixels, stable up to 133Hz and no blacklight bleeding I could notice.
> Very fast delivery, good communication with ebay seller "items_dealer".


Hi Bethamon, Congrats on your monitor. See your new to OCN...welcome aboard too.









I have a question regarding your test. Is there anyway to capture 6 or more squares for an accurate test? According to mdrejohn another *post* which I've quoted below it seems to be the correct way to confirm frame skipping, I've learned. If not you, any other members would be great. I've not seen a frame skipping test in this thread with any more than five squares yet, unless I've missed it. Need to slow your camera capture time down.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mdrejhon*
> 
> You are testing the TestUFO Frame Skipping test at www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping correctly, and 85Hz is definitely frameskipping. However, there's a way to make testing easier. Right now, your frameskipping photo is currently currently capturing too few frames; try for a longer camera exposure.
> 
> To trick any cheap camera into doing that:
> 1. Adjust your "Exposure Compensation" setting in your camera to a higher setting; and
> 2. Lower the brightness of your monitor by a lot. This forces your camera to take a longer exposure.
> 
> For easier frameskipping determination, *you need to take a picture of at least 1/10th second (capture about 6+ squares), and preferably 1/5th second (capture about 10+ squares) for a more accurate frameskipping analysis.* The first visible square should be more than 2 squares away from the last visible square, or it won't easily help you determine frameskipping.
> 
> *Example valid photo of non-frameskipping:*
> 
> 
> *Example valid photo of frameskipping:*
> 
> 
> But yes, very good test of the frameskipping & you have correctly determined your display is frameskipping at 85Hz. I've amended the instructions at www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping to also use a longer camera exposure, since it makes it much easier. to detect frameskipping.
> 
> Secondary verification tests: The moving photo test at www.testufo.com/#test=photo should show obvious microstutters on a frameskipping display. (provided your GPU/browser is not the bottleneck, but it appears this is not the case for you as Chrome manages perfect synchronization running as the only window on systems that has everything chrome://gpu is enabled). Frameskipping will be much easier to see when playing VSYNC ON than when playing VSYNC OFF. Strafing left/right at high speeds at close distances to high-detail objects during fully synchronized framerate=Hz VSYNC ON will show microstutters on a frameskipping display.


Thanks kindly for whomever takes this test with 6 or more squares, preferably 8+ squares.


----------



## Bethamon

Do you expect something like this ?


----------



## Doofus McGwire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qnoxluke*
> 
> I am using a MSI 7850.
> Tried using it as a secondary monitor together with my tv. It showed up in the windows screen resolution window as a 2560x1440 DVI screen, but again showed no picture or power led. I enabled GPU scaling and disconnected the tv started with only the qnix connected no difference. deinstalling drivers didn't help either.


Ah crud. Sorry that I can't help you more. I'm not too experienced beyond the basics.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bethamon*
> 
> Do you expect something like this ?


Thank you Bethamon - that's what I was wanting for confirmation. Nice monitor over clock.

+1 Rep incoming for taking the personal time to provide this info.


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> Okay, I think i'm going to try the tape mod. I've looked in the FAQ and it's a bit vague. I see how to open the monitor, but where exactly do you tape? Between the glass LCD panel and the metal frame? I wonder if putting a bead of black silicone or similar would block more. Could make a mess though.


So I went ahead and tore my new Qnix apart and did the tape mod.

I found the Youtube playlist to be very helpful, and thanks if the guy who produced them ever reads this, but a bit scattered.

In a more concise fashion:
To do the tape mod, see the playlist listed in the FAQ and others have mentioned that starts here:






Watch videos 1 - 5, skip 6 - 10, watch 11 - 13 and stop. Assembly is the reverse.

That said, as others have mentioned in this thread as well, my biggest issue was a giant arse bend in the frame that was putting pressure on the top-middle-left portion of the screen seen in my earlier pics.

green-sum claims to inspect every monitor before it goes out but clearly they're fibbing. I'm guessing this damage had to have happened at Samsung before the sub-panel was even assembled. I don't see any impact that could bend a folded steel frame could not have broken the glass of an LCD panel.

Once I fiddled with the frame on a flat surface for awhile and got it mostly flat and torqued back mostly square, I went ahead and applied the electrical tape because why not.

100% better!

Thanks everyone.


----------



## kevinsbane

I highly doubt that any seller checks anything, regularly.

None of them source their own monitors, so they are just resellers (middlemen). To check them, they would have to open a retail box, plug it in, turn it on and test (by eye?). That takes time, that takes energy, and most importantly, it results in an opened box. It's all well and good if the monitor truly is good, but what if it isn't (and many aren't)? You now have an opened box monitor; not exactly prime goods anymore. So you sell it as non-pixel perfect, for less. People who catch on to this scheme decide not to buy your non-pixel-perfect monitors and go somewhere else, since they know all your reject panels are going to them. Then the person you DO sell one to complains about it because, well, it was opened! What recourse do you have? None, not really. Lot of risk. Costly process. Very little return on investment (if any). And it serves one line of business ("pixel perfect") at the expense of another line of business (non-"pixel perfect"). I know that if a seller does this, I'd stay far, far away from his or her panels that aren't "checked".

If anyone checks, it's most likely done at the factory level. It's the only place where any of this makes any kind of economic or business sense. Do it when you can do it en masse, when you can automate it, and where you don't need to tamper with retail packaging.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I have a question regarding your test. Is there anyway to capture 6 or more squares for an accurate test? According to mdrejohn another *post* which I've quoted below it seems to be the correct way to confirm frame skipping, I've learned. If not you, any other members would be great. I've not seen a frame skipping test in this thread with any more than five squares yet, unless I've missed it. Need to slow your camera capture time down.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mdrejhon*
> 
> You are testing the TestUFO Frame Skipping test at www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping correctly, and 85Hz is definitely frameskipping. However, there's a way to make testing easier. Right now, your frameskipping photo is currently currently capturing too few frames; try for a longer camera exposure.
> 
> To trick any cheap camera into doing that:
> 1. Adjust your "Exposure Compensation" setting in your camera to a higher setting; and
> 2. Lower the brightness of your monitor by a lot. This forces your camera to take a longer exposure.
> 
> For easier frameskipping determination, *you need to take a picture of at least 1/10th second (capture about 6+ squares), and preferably 1/5th second (capture about 10+ squares) for a more accurate frameskipping analysis.* The first visible square should be more than 2 squares away from the last visible square, or it won't easily help you determine frameskipping.
> 
> *Example valid photo of non-frameskipping:*
> 
> 
> *Example valid photo of frameskipping:*
> 
> 
> But yes, very good test of the frameskipping & you have correctly determined your display is frameskipping at 85Hz. I've amended the instructions at www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping to also use a longer camera exposure, since it makes it much easier. to detect frameskipping.
> 
> Secondary verification tests: The moving photo test at www.testufo.com/#test=photo should show obvious microstutters on a frameskipping display. (provided your GPU/browser is not the bottleneck, but it appears this is not the case for you as Chrome manages perfect synchronization running as the only window on systems that has everything chrome://gpu is enabled). Frameskipping will be much easier to see when playing VSYNC ON than when playing VSYNC OFF. Strafing left/right at high speeds at close distances to high-detail objects during fully synchronized framerate=Hz VSYNC ON will show microstutters on a frameskipping display.
Click to expand...

Added this to the OC section in the OP.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> So I went ahead and tore my new Qnix apart and did the tape mod.
> 
> I found the Youtube playlist to be very helpful, and thanks if the guy who produced them ever reads this, but a bit scattered.
> 
> In a more concise fashion:
> To do the tape mod, see the playlist listed in the FAQ and others have mentioned that starts here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watch videos 1 - 5, skip 6 - 10, watch 11 - 13 and stop. Assembly is the reverse.


Added this info the tape mode section in the OP


----------



## fagoatse

Hey guys do your monitors make cracking noises when they warm up? It seems to be coming from the front(bezel I guess?). The panel itself is most likely quite hot and I've loosen the screws a bit so that would explain things. Anyway, I hope it's not a sign of imminent(and premature) death.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bethamon*
> 
> Do you expect something like this ?


What website does this?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> What website does this?


Here you go: http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

Lots of other tests as well if you want them.


----------



## BoingLoings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Dream-seller was a horrible experience for me as well. He had almost no communication with me and ignored most of my messages.
> 
> Granted he gave me a refund on an order I cancelled... it took him 4 1/2 days though. I even called his phone number in South Korea and some woman answered it, hung up on me because she didn't understand English.


I'm on the same boat. I'm giving him until the 28th to ship before I take action.

My transaction is already completed and the money is drawn from my account. How were you able to cancel the order? Did you file a dispute? And then what?

I dislike the lack of communication and excuses he gives for the delays.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah...not trying to rub salt in wounds here rather reiterate to others who have yet to buy--avoid Dream-Seller.


----------



## Ghost12

Expecting mine tomorrow so would be nice to report no issues and a nice overclock lol


----------



## Jaeflash

I'm in the same boat with Dream Seller. I ordered on Friday, then noticed he's not shipping until the 26th. If I don't hear something or have a tracking number in the next couple days, I'm going to take action too. Doesn't ebay have a policy about not selling items you are out of stock on?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoingLoings*
> 
> I'm on the same boat. I'm giving him until the 28th to ship before I take action.
> 
> My transaction is already completed and the money is drawn from my account. How were you able to cancel the order? Did you file a dispute? And then what?
> 
> I dislike the lack of communication and excuses he gives for the delays.


well, it started with someone here telling me they got a perfect pixel one from dreamseller and it had deadpixels with dreamseller refusing replacement. Their policy states up to 2 dead pixels. So I messaged dreamseller about 10hours after my purchase to cancel my order in which he responded that he would grant the return and that is see it in my PayPal statement later that day. 4 days passed and still no refund. In between the wait I sent him at least 6 messages all of which were ignored. I could tell because he was still leaving people feedback during that time. Very stressful situation to deal with no doubt. I have made an order with accessories whole. Their pixel perfect is overpriced but they guarantee 0 dead pixels and minimum backlight bleed. They actually test their monitors, at least that's what they say anyways. He was swift with his reply and provided good communication so either way I feel much more confident about buying from him rather than dreamseller.


----------



## BoingLoings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaeflash*
> 
> I'm in the same boat with Dream Seller. I ordered on Friday, then noticed he's not shipping until the 26th. If I don't hear something or have a tracking number in the next couple days, I'm going to take action too. Doesn't ebay have a policy about not selling items you are out of stock on?


I ordered Friday also, thinking it would ship today. He should just ship us the Qnix. It's only a 10 dollar difference. I thought of doing a dispute but he takes long enough to respond to emails.


----------



## Xentar712

Just got my Qnix from green-sum today(non-pixel perfect edition). It had one dead pixel which I don't really notice and took some heavy looking to even find. BLB is very slight - there's a small spot in the lower left but it's not bad at all. What I did notice was I have a dark region in the upper middle. I didn't really see it until I hit 120Hz which made all my colors a lot darker. Greys, reds and blues really make the dark region unbearable. Judging from the OP, I'm guessing the tape mod might fix this? Anyone else ever resolve a dark region?

I'm glad everyone got together with this forum. This is literally the most support for a monitor I have ever seen! FWIW(assuming I can fix this dark region) I think this monitor is a good buy. I've been using a Monoprice Zero-G 27 inch for a month now, so I get to see them side by side before I sell the Monoprice one to a friend of mine. Here's my two cents on the comparison of the two(both were glossy):

Monoprice Zero-G
pros:
-Brighter screen. Helped the glare issue a little. Almost too bright but I got used to it. Melted my eyes when waking up and using it in a dark room.
-Better build quality. Felt solid when I picked it up and moved it around today. Qnix did not feel as durable.
-Warranty
-Zero dead pixels as advertised.
cons:
-Severe BLB
-Limited to 60Hz

Qnix
pros:
-Overclockable
-cheaper
-BLB can be fixed(hopefully)
cons:
-cheap stand
-defects (i.e. dark region, dead pixel, bent thumb screw for stand, cheap feeling casing)

Overall it's a wash for me. I'm keeping the Qnix only because of overclocking. It's nice to be rid of the BLB, but if I were to be ok with 60Hz, I think I would have stuck with the Monoprice. I did get it for $350 shipped though, so that had something to do with it.


----------



## chris1216

Can anyone help me?
I've had the monitor for about a month. It's been overclocked to around 100 hz just fine. Then the blue light started to flicker weirdly, and then the monitor turned off.
when I plug the dvi cable in, I hear a faint pop, and then the blue light goes dim again. It can still detect the monitor, but no picture. I'm hoping this is just a problem with the dvi cable, and not the monitor.
But then would the light be going dim like that if it was just the dvi cable?
Any suggestions before I try to buy another cable?


----------



## dseg

Well I ordered two screens. One from green-sum (eBay) and another from ipsledmonitors.com. Paid about the same price for both. Both monitors are nice and below is a quick overview of my experience:

*ipsledmonitors.com*
They are based out of the U.S. and have a pretty good return policy. They are very responsive through email and packaged the monitor pretty good. You can see in the picture that the entire box is layered in bubble wrap.


I received my monitor from ipsledmonitors in 2-3 days from ordering. Very fast process.

*Green-sums:*
I did not take a picture of green-sums because it wasn't really even packaged, it was just shipped in the box the monitor comes with and had no bubble wrap.

So which monitor was better? I would have to say green-sums. Here is a picture of the backlight bleed of each monitor:



The camera brings out the back light bleed so much and does not look that bad in person. Before you make fun of pics, I did see a "how to take a picture of BLB" on the front of the thread but have not read it...
So clearly ipsledmonitors.com monitor has much more bleed than green-sums. Green-sum's BLB is extremely minimal (again the picture brings out the light so much). Since I only watch movies on one monitor, I do not believe the BLB from ipsledmonitors.com is worth returning.

As for overclocking, well I got them both to 120Hz in 10 minutes.


Dead pixels are a flip of the coin. But since the BLB was better on green-sums, I would say theirs is better.


----------



## General121

Blb is not by seller but by luck.


----------



## candy_van

Anyone know why the multi-input model QX2710 is 8ms instead of 6ms like with the DVI-D only version? Or is ispledmonitors off there?


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Anyone know why the multi-input model QX2710 is 8ms instead of 6ms like with the DVI-D only version? Or is ispledmonitors off there?


I heard they dont overclock as much also.


----------



## Kaze105

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> So I went ahead and tore my new Qnix apart and did the tape mod.
> 
> I found the Youtube playlist to be very helpful, and thanks if the guy who produced them ever reads this, but a bit scattered.
> 
> In a more concise fashion:
> 
> 
> green-sum claims to inspect every monitor before it goes out but clearly they're fibbing. I'm guessing this damage had to have happened at Samsung before the sub-panel was even assembled. I don't see any impact that could bend a folded steel frame could not have broken the glass of an LCD panel.
> 
> Once I fiddled with the frame on a flat surface for awhile and got it mostly flat and torqued back mostly square, I went ahead and applied the electrical tape because why not.
> 
> 100% better!
> 
> Thanks everyone.


I decided to also do a tape mod. I also checked my monitor frame and found it to be exactly like yours. My frame in the middle horizontal section was definitely bent fairly badly and green-sum said they checked all monitors.

Did the tape mod for only the horizontal section. (going to do all 4 again once I get my 3 monitor stand) I did end up damaging the bezel a little bit when opening with a screw driver. I used a credit card that I was going to throw away and slid it across. The frame just popped out easily with it. You can see the difference below. The photo does look better than it actually is.


Left is with tape mod, right is without.


----------



## entreri00

I have a single solid horizontal line about 60% from the bottom edge to edge. Line of dead pixels? Totally lost cause? It's my second monitor from dream-seller. The Shimian was fine but I thought I'd get an overclockable one. Any advice on fixing or what to do if not fixable is welcome.


----------



## Kwisatz

I'll contribute my story of Dream-Seller then, while we're at it.

I ordered on a Sunday. Nothing happened until Wednesday. I wrote a message, asking why the delay. I got an automoated message back that dream-seller is out of office for the next six days, because vacation. Nothing more, no estimated date of shippment, no nothing. Ok, I thought, that's odd. I sent another message saying that I needed the monitor for the weekend so I wanted to cancel the order. So, order cancelled, I bought from accessoirieswhole. A few hours later I got a mail (not automated this time) saying the monitor was shipped the previous day and they are very terribly sorry and all. I got a tracking number. The tracking number stated the monitor was still not picked up by FedEx, so I wrote them that I canceled my order and they should stop the shipment. No reply. I wrote again, saying it reflects badly on their costumer support if they wouldn't cancel the order. The monitor was shipped the day after. accessoirieswhole's monitor was already on its way. At this stage I was thinking: ok, my own fault, I should have been more patient, now I will just sell the one that has the worse performance







.

I was frenetically refreshing the tracking pages all day ofc (as you do







) and the Dream-Seller monitor wouldn't move from South Korea for a day. Then I got the message that Dream-Seller contacted FedEx and the shipment was aborted. The monitor was returned, I got my money back and all is well.

I don't really know what I should think of Dream-Seller after this. They were incredibly evasive and slack until I put some pressure on them. On the other hand, they fixed the "problem" after all. But it only came this far because they claim "shipping the next day" and then after almost three days NOTHING happened. And then all you get is "sorry, you have to wait another 6 days before we even get it wrapped up and shipped"...

All in all: I would avoid that trader and go for accessoirieswhole or green-sum instead, even if they are a little more expensive.


----------



## tomKPZ

I don't mean to spam the thread with this, but has anyone heard from dream-seller recently? It's been 9 days and my order still hasn't shipped.


----------



## Ghost12

Just received mine, glad to report all is fine. There are no dead pixels at all and minimal blb, lower right centre. The interweb text is tiny though, need to change some settings, or get some binoculars.

Added a custom [email protected] profile which works nicely. Just overclocked and set up 2 resolution speeds, 100hz and 120hz both are fine no problems. Need to install a 120hz color profile now to combat the darkness.


----------



## Bludge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Thanks kindly for whomever takes this test with 6 or more squares, preferably 8+ squares.






Hope these are helpful


----------



## Ghost12

I believe I have followed the procedure for overclocking correctly but need to ask reference running games at the clocks, The ufo refresh rate test still says 60hz valid even though every other place says 120hz including in game bf3 settings

Here is a screen shot confirmation re my res settings in catalyst http://gyazo.com/85da48ae7b09e63134870d3277366749
http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/d..._2013_08_27_13_28_32_503_zps1bd7e4eb.png.html

http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/darryl121/media/bf3_2013_08_27_13_22_21_710_zps9472bbe1.png.html

Thanks in advance


----------



## Moragg

Which browser are you using? I know Chrome is able to detect 120Hz, but not all browsers can.

Normally the issue is something to do with precisionx/cru for Nvidia, but there is only one way to do it with AMD so I don't think you could have done it wrong.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Which browser are you using? I know Chrome is able to detect 120Hz, but not all browsers can.
> 
> Normally the issue is something to do with precisionx/cru for Nvidia, but there is only one way to do it with AMD so I don't think you could have done it wrong.


I am using chrome, every possible way is showing 120hz as selected and available except the ufo test.


----------



## Jaeflash

I had an email this morning from Dream Seller apologizing for the delay, and that there will be one more delay but my monitor will ship on the 28th, and there will be no further delays. I hope so!


----------



## exzacklyright

Anyone want to swap









I'd rather have perfect pixels than 120hz haha. I have one stuck green pixel on the right that's only noticebale on dark backgrounds. Mine runs 120hz flawlessly all day.


----------



## Nightgamerx

Quote:


> I had an email this morning from Dream Seller apologizing for the delay, and that there will be one more delay but my monitor will ship on the 28th, and there will be no further delays. I hope so!


I received the same email from Dream Seller as well around 4:30am EST. Originally I remember seeing the page saying there would be a delay and my monitor would ship on the 26th due to the large influx of orders. After not receiving at tracking number from him I emailed him and his was response was that it would be shipping on the 28th and he's sorry for the delay. Here's to hoping it goes out on time! If both of our ship out on the 28th, do you think they would be delivered this weekend? I'm on the east coast USA.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwisatz*
> 
> I don't really know what I should think of Dream-Seller after this. They were incredibly evasive and slack until I put some pressure on them. On the other hand, they fixed the "problem" after all. But it only came this far because they claim "shipping the next day" and then after almost three days NOTHING happened. And then all you get is "sorry, you have to wait another 6 days before we even get it wrapped up and shipped"...
> .


Pretty much exactly how I feel. accessorieswhole already shipped the monitor within a day, while dream-seller took 4 1/2 days just to give me a refund.


----------



## Agenesis

How do I get past the 60hz limit if I want to overclock via the nvidia control panel? I already installed the patch.

CRU works great on one of my machines with a 780 but I have another computer running a 480 and it wouldn't do 120hz at all. Overclocking via Nvidia CP would be much easier than restarting using CRU.


----------



## Moragg

What you need is some sort of tool that would allow you to choose a pixel, then make sure it only shows colour in certain situations. That would make stuck pixels more desirable than dead ones.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris1216*
> 
> Can anyone help me?
> I've had the monitor for about a month. It's been overclocked to around 100 hz just fine. Then the blue light started to flicker weirdly, and then the monitor turned off.
> when I plug the dvi cable in, I hear a faint pop, and then the blue light goes dim again. It can still detect the monitor, but no picture. I'm hoping this is just a problem with the dvi cable, and not the monitor.
> But then would the light be going dim like that if it was just the dvi cable?
> Any suggestions before I try to buy another cable?


Hmm I am not really sure what to suggest dude but the "pop and flickering" sounds worrisome and I don't have a lot of confidence this is cable-related. But proper troubleshooting dictates you try one...

Good luck.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> What you need is some sort of tool that would allow you to choose a pixel, then make sure it only shows colour in certain situations. That would make stuck pixels more desirable than dead ones.


Wouldn't this type of "control" simply allow the stucks to be fixed?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> What you need is some sort of tool that would allow you to choose a pixel, then make sure it only shows colour in certain situations. That would make stuck pixels more desirable than dead ones.
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't this type of "control" simply allow the stucks to be fixed?
Click to expand...

You're right, I forgot stuck pixels cannot be "turned off" while the monitor is on. That said, you could still specify the pixel and what colour it is stuck on. That way a simple table could be used to decide, from the surrounding pixels, which colour to send to this one so it doesn't stand out like a sore thumb.

E.g. if you have a stuck blue-sub pixel and show blanket red, the comp would decide to make that pixel white, which would stand out a lot less than blue.


----------



## Darknight1

Heh. Well, green-sum ships quickly, but they're liars. So six of one, half-dozen of another.

Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
First of all, we are deeply sorry for your inconvenience. We will make our best efforts to support you.

We received the pictures. Thank you for your cooperation. LCD and LED monitors could have some BLB by their manufacturing nature. In a dark background, LG, SAMSUNG, or DELL monitors have the problem. It is a limit of LCD and LED monitors. Manufacturers say it will be reduced gradually as use.

Please let us know if you have additional questions or issue. Again, sorry for your inconvenience.
Thank you.

Best regards,
Green-Sum

What I've learned from this experience is that these Korean monitors can indeed be a very good value, but you need to be both patient and handy to fix what will more than likely be a damaged panel.

On the plus side, mine's now pretty much fine with zero dead pixels once I took the hammer and tongs (and tape) to it.


----------



## DiceAir

So I've tried the stock cable and the following cable and still can't get 120Hz. I can't get a 24AWG cable here in south Africa

http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/2m-premium-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2793

I get green lines on my screen


----------



## Bethamon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> How do I get past the 60hz limit if I want to overclock via the nvidia control panel? I already installed the patch.
> 
> CRU works great on one of my machines with a 780 but I have another computer running a 480 and it wouldn't do 120hz at all. Overclocking via Nvidia CP would be much easier than restarting using CRU.


Why did u need a patch? I didn't need one.
However, maybe this screenshots helps ya (even when it's in german):


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Edit: Post deleted


----------



## coelacanth

Anyone with SLI get "browser stutter" in the Blur Busters tests? I'm thinking it might also be because I have 2 monitors connected? If I resize Chrome to be a smaller window I get less browser stutter.

I have GTX 580 3GB Lightning Xtremes in SLI.

Also what is the point of getting 8 squares on the Blur Busters Frame Skipping Check?


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I heard they dont overclock as much also.


So they're different panels then?
Really annoying, b/c I'd much rather the lower response rate (if it's actually true) + all the connectivity options.

Samsung lists their panel @ 8ms IIRC, so perhaps the 6ms claim on the DVI only model is just shenanigans?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> So they're different panels then?
> Really annoying, b/c I'd much rather the lower response rate (if it's actually true) + all the connectivity options.
> 
> Samsung lists their panel @ 8ms IIRC, so perhaps the 6ms claim on the DVI only model is just shenanigans?


The panels are the same. The inputs are different. Adding extra inputs and electronics slows the panel's performance down.


----------



## candy_van

Never been too up on panel performance, but just having the connections there slows down the response rate? Even if they're not in use?


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Never been too up on panel performance, but just having the connections there slows down the response rate? Even if they're not in use?


I don't think anyone here knows with certainty. Keep in mind manufacturers pretty much calculate response times on the back of a napkin, their accuracy is always questionable. Maybe the video scaler affects response time by 2ms.


----------



## Jaeflash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightgamerx*
> 
> I received the same email from Dream Seller as well around 4:30am EST. Originally I remember seeing the page saying there would be a delay and my monitor would ship on the 26th due to the large influx of orders. After not receiving at tracking number from him I emailed him and his was response was that it would be shipping on the 28th and he's sorry for the delay. Here's to hoping it goes out on time! If both of our ship out on the 28th, do you think they would be delivered this weekend? I'm on the east coast USA.


Well, it's supposed to be express delivery, which is usually a day or two so I'm hoping we do. Good luck to you!


----------



## Moragg

I'm flummoxed (word of the day







), how is Dreamseller getting so many orders if we keep telling people not to buy from him?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I'm flummoxed (word of the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), how is Dreamseller getting so many orders if we keep telling people not to buy from him?


The spreadsheet on the OP shows dreamseller as being one of the best. I think there was also another post in one of the links on the OP that said to buy from dreamseller. I almost pulled the trigger on them but luckily I read a random post with a complaint and went with green-sum instead.


----------



## Moragg

OP needs changing then, while I can't say dreamseller is awful I've read all of both threads and people pop up with issues from them more than others.


----------



## Kisaha2Kisaha

I exchanged a few emails with all of them and green-sum and accessorieswhole seemed like they really care. I'll go with Accessorieswhole I think, a bit more expensive, but it has very straightforward policies about DOA, returns, dead pixels and such.


----------



## TheSilentCircus

I've been satisfied at 96hz but man I gave 120hz a shot last night with my qnix and holy crap it works like a champ. My only gripe is that it has a bit of a flicker across the monitor that is faintly there. (Visible on certain colors).

I forgot checking if LCD-Reduced will help this, I am going to try this when I get home from work...seriously this monitor has easily been the best investment I made to my rig.


----------



## XCII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qnoxluke*
> 
> I am using a MSI 7850.
> Tried using it as a secondary monitor together with my tv. It showed up in the windows screen resolution window as a 2560x1440 DVI screen, but again showed no picture or power led. I enabled GPU scaling and disconnected the tv started with only the qnix connected no difference. deinstalling drivers didn't help either.


I think I have the same problem.
Windows recognizes it but the screen is blank no matter what?
My power led light works though.


----------



## Ghost12

Just had an issue with mine, its been fine all day then suddenly went into what I can only describe as a test mode, so going through all the dead pixel colour screens etc and various others. Anyone ever experienced this? could not get it out of it, had to unplug from system completely including the power cord and dvi.


----------



## Jaeflash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I'm flummoxed (word of the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), how is Dreamseller getting so many orders if we keep telling people not to buy from him?


He was $20 cheaper than the next seller when I ordered, and I'm cheap lol. I know the risks, and I was okay with a slight delay. Now I just have to cross my fingers that I have no problems with it when I get it.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

I'm definitely pick this up next week or two. But my question is which one?
[Perfect Pixel] FREE EXPRESS X-STAR DP2710LED 27" 2560x1440 Samsung PLS "Matte" or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
Here's were I'm torn between the two...


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> OP needs changing then, while I can't say dreamseller is awful I've read all of both threads and people pop up with issues from them more than others.


Where is this change that is needed? I can't see where I recommend any seller in the OP


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> OP needs changing then, while I can't say dreamseller is awful I've read all of both threads and people pop up with issues from them more than others.
> 
> 
> 
> Where is this change that is needed? I can't see where I recommend any seller in the OP
Click to expand...

I wasn't sure, but it looks like under "trends" - Monitors Sold, Grouped by Ebay Seller - dreamseller has the second most sales. So people think he is a good seller









I realise that wasn't your intention, but perhaps a line (in bold+red) saying "WARNING: Just because a seller has many sales does NOT make them any good. e.g. avoid Dreamseller"


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well, to be more fair than they maybe deserve, his sheer volume could also help explain the delay in communications etc.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well, to be more fair than they maybe deserve, his sheer volume could also help explain the delay in communications etc.


Yeah no kidding, I've seen his listings on the front-page of slickdeals. I don't think it's up to the OP to endorse one seller, wntrsnowg has maintained a list of purchases (good or bad). Tons of anecdotal information and speculation around here.

If there was a clear cut scammer then sure, but basically all I hear is "OMG I ordered on Friday and it didn't show up on my doorstep in 3 days".

edit:

Not to mention all the nonsense about one seller having better "pixel perfect" monitors or BLB than the others. Look at the sample sizes involved its a dice-roll anywhere you buy.


----------



## dseg

Can someone help me out? I overclocked my monitors to 96Hz then 120Hz with no problem and played all my games for a week. I just upgraded to a 780 and I had to reoverclock them. Now I can not get them past 60Hz without my monitors freaking out and flashing blue on one screen and green on another.

Now I got one monitor to 96Hz but other one wont go past 48 FPS?? Confused.

Update:
So I can get each monitor to 120Hz by themselves. But when do both at the same time, the screen flickers. On my 580 (upgraded to 80 today) I was able to OC both monitors to 120Hz at the same time with no problems.


----------



## gl0ry

What the holy fk.

I purchased my monitors from accessorieswhole early monday, and they'll be arriving tomorrow by UPS.

This is ridiculous!


----------



## chris1216

Can anyone help me?
I've had the monitor for about a month. It's been overclocked to around 100 hz just fine. Then the blue light started to flicker weirdly, and then the monitor turned off.
when I plug the cable in, I hear a faint pop. The monitor will light up, then it will go black again, and light will continue to blink..


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris1216*
> 
> Can anyone help me?
> I've had the monitor for about a month. It's been overclocked to around 100 hz just fine. Then the blue light started to flicker weirdly, and then the monitor turned off.
> when I plug the cable in, I hear a faint pop. The monitor will light up, then it will go black again, and light will continue to blink..


Sounds like a power supply issue. Tried a different power supply?


----------



## Xentar712

Weird question. Why would 120 Hz cause me to have internet issues? I literally get 1Mbps when at 120 Hz but 25Mbps at anything lower.


----------



## chris1216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Sounds like a power supply issue. Tried a different power supply?


Would just any generic plug work?


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris1216*
> 
> Would just any generic plug work?


I tried a different power supply.
Anyone else not able to get 2 or more monitors stable without it flashing grey, blue, or green?

So I can overclock both monitors to 120Hz but if I run the FPS test on both at the same time, my FPS average in the 50s. If I run each at a time, I get 120 FPS. This is after upgrading to the 780.

On m 580, I could OC both to 120Hz and run the tester and get 120 FPS on both monitors at the same time.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> OP needs changing then, while I can't say dreamseller is awful I've read all of both threads and people pop up with issues from them more than others.
> 
> 
> 
> Where is this change that is needed? I can't see where I recommend any seller in the OP
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wasn't sure, but it looks like under "trends" - Monitors Sold, Grouped by Ebay Seller - dreamseller has the second most sales. So people think he is a good seller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I realise that wasn't your intention, but perhaps a line (in bold+red) saying "WARNING: Just because a seller has many sales does NOT make them any good. e.g. avoid Dreamseller"
Click to expand...

I thought that is what you might have been referring to. Those trend graphs are simply data analysis on member submissions, no definitive suggestions or recommendations. Of course there can be the adverse effect of biasing where people only buy what is the most purchased, based from that data. I will consider putting a small disclaimer there. Edit: I put up a disclaimer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well, to be more fair than they maybe deserve, his sheer volume could also help explain the delay in communications etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah no kidding, I've seen his listings on the front-page of slickdeals. I don't think it's up to the OP to endorse one seller, wntrsnowg has maintained a list of purchases (good or bad). Tons of anecdotal information and speculation around here.
> 
> If there was a clear cut scammer then sure, but basically all I hear is "OMG I ordered on Friday and it didn't show up on my doorstep in 3 days".
> 
> edit:
> 
> Not to mention all the nonsense about one seller having better "pixel perfect" monitors or BLB than the others. Look at the sample sizes involved its a dice-roll anywhere you buy.
Click to expand...

However, I agree with junkrok. *I am not here to endorse any particular seller*. I was even approached by a certain seller and bribed to make a product they sell look amazing, but I turned it down and reported it to the admins. If I have some definitive and repeating proof against dream-seller, than I will start to throw up warnings and advisement against them. Until then, im sitting back and letting the discussion continue...

For what its worth, I have heard bad experiences about dream-seller too, but no one is bringing them up. Its a dice-roll. If it were guaranteed and perfect every time, these wouldn't be so cheap!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chris1216*
> 
> Would just any generic plug work?
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a different power supply.
> Anyone else not able to get 2 or more monitors stable without it flashing grey, blue, or green?
> 
> So I can overclock both monitors to 120Hz but if I run the FPS test on both at the same time, my FPS average in the 50s. If I run each at a time, I get 120 FPS. This is after upgrading to the 780.
> 
> On m 580, I could OC both to 120Hz and run the tester and get 120 FPS on both monitors at the same time.
Click to expand...

I have a similar issue with my GPU. I have a non-OC monitor and i tried to OC this monitor and that test website shows messed up numbers. Could be an error in the website, or your GPU cannot handle the bandwidth required for 2 OC'd monitors


----------



## Fr33stuffs

Hi guys, i just bought the X-Star Matte and omg. I thought id try a new seller thinking that he might be sending out the best panels. also he was cheapest, I bought it on eBay ended up about 350$ AUD -- I'm Australian. It was fast as postage.. i ordered Thursday. posted Friday in Australia on Saturday delivered on Monday (Due to Australian couriers don't like working weekends) I just opened the box no damage to the outside even though it was just the cardboard box, no bubble wrap like other companies are doing. BUT STILL no dents or anything to the box. Opened it up and checked the panel no damage. jeez they do have a nice finish in person I'm surprised, Plugged the DVI in while computer and panel where off, screwed it in.. the cable seems cheap but I managed to get it tight, Plugged in the power for the panel and BOOM red green ETC. looked good, Turned the PC on and wow nice







Straight away i went into my NVIDIA settings and managed to get it to 80 hz but no higher.. I am upgrading my graphics drivers now i am running a GTX 550 Ti. BEST THING- No dead pixels
AND I cant even see any light bleed!!!








Seller was a new one in town with only about 550 rep from ebay..
Seller: ta_planet_au ( 564 )
Im extremely happy with it. now time to get it to 120 HZ, ill keep posting.

Thanks DD


----------



## Fr33stuffs

Update: Managed to get up to 96 Hz with new drivers!


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I have a similar issue with my GPU. I have a non-OC monitor and i tried to OC this monitor and that test website shows messed up numbers. Could be an error in the website, or your GPU cannot handle the bandwidth required for 2 OC'd monitors


I doubt my 580 was about to handle, but now my 780 can't?
I started messing with it more:

If I set one monitor to 120Hz and the other to 96Hz. both average 50FPS
If I set the OTHER monitor to 120Hz and the OTHER monitor (just switching monitor OC above) They are both show 96 FPS on the screens at the same time.

If I set one monitor to 96 and other to 60 - both average 50FPS
If I set one monitor to 120 and other to 60 - both average 50FPS

If I set them both to 60Hz - both average 50FPS
If I set them both to 120Hz - both average 50FPS
If I set them both to 96Hz - I get a flasking blue/green screen.

So messed up...


----------



## tomKPZ

Does anyone know if a gtx 480 can handle two 2560x1440 monitors overclocked to 120Hz. What if the 480 was overclocked?


----------



## frozen60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Weird question. Why would 120 Hz cause me to have internet issues? I literally get 1Mbps when at 120 Hz but 25Mbps at anything lower.


use a dcp latency checker and post the results with your clocks


----------



## TrevJonez

So joining the club i got the monitors and tore them apart and built new aluminum shells for them. With a 400x400 vesa mount pattern on the back. (I supervise the cad/layout dept at a sign shop so this is quite normal work)

Took a few test pieces to get everything just right. My paint job looked like crap because i rushed it so bad. To cover up that i made some black acrylic overlays and stuck them on for a fairly clean finish.

each screen is on the monoprice stand now. also don't mind the finger prints on the acrylic or the cluttered mess in the room


----------



## wntrsnowg

thats a sick looking computer case trevjonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I have a similar issue with my GPU. I have a non-OC monitor and i tried to OC this monitor and that test website shows messed up numbers. Could be an error in the website, or your GPU cannot handle the bandwidth required for 2 OC'd monitors
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt my 580 was about to handle, but now my 780 can't?
> I started messing with it more:
> 
> If I set one monitor to 120Hz and the other to 96Hz. both average 50FPS
> If I set the OTHER monitor to 120Hz and the OTHER monitor (just switching monitor OC above) They are both show 96 FPS on the screens at the same time.
> 
> If I set one monitor to 96 and other to 60 - both average 50FPS
> If I set one monitor to 120 and other to 60 - both average 50FPS
> 
> If I set them both to 60Hz - both average 50FPS
> If I set them both to 120Hz - both average 50FPS
> If I set them both to 96Hz - I get a flasking blue/green screen.
> 
> So messed up...
Click to expand...

Must just be that website


----------



## zazzn

yeah still waiting on dream seller, ordered on the 16th, he said out of stock again till the 28.


----------



## BoingLoings

Sorry fellas, those waiting are going to be expecting an delay again.

I emailed stating that if it wasn't shipped by the 28th, I would like a refund because this is not what i ordered. I ordered for EXPRESS.

First email, he said I wouldn't have to worry because it will be shipped on the 28th.

Second email, which I received 20 minutes ago, Dream-seller stated unfortunately he's unable to fufill my request and refunded my money!

Good luck to everyone dealing with dream-seller. Seem like that sale was too much for him.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

looks like the factory supplying the Glossy panels to QNIX and X-Star has cut off the supply for an indefinite amount of time, if you have purchased a glossy panel in the last few days chances are you'll either get a refund or be provided an option to get a Matte monitor.


----------



## Nightgamerx

I ordered my Matte X-Star on the 23rd, and just received my tracking information from Dream Seller this morning. Fed Ex tracking number says the package is scheduled to be picked up on the 29th and estimated delivery to the east coast USA is Thursday the 5th. That's a week of shipping, I thought most people get theirs in about 3 days?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightgamerx*
> 
> I ordered my Matte X-Star on the 23rd, and just received my tracking information from Dream Seller this morning. Fed Ex tracking number says the package is scheduled to be picked up on the 29th and estimated delivery to the east coast USA is Thursday the 5th. That's a week of shipping, I thought most people get theirs in about 3 days?


Dreamseller


----------



## gl0ry

I cannot believe that my order from monday is coming today to my house. this is ridiculous speed from accessorieswhole.


----------



## Nightgamerx

Yes, it hasn't been the best experience with the multiple delays, but I'm patient and hoping for a great panel since there has been so many delays. I went with dream seller due to the amount of people that have purchased from him previously and TekSyndicate said they haven't experienced any problems with him in the past and he was the cheapest. If I purchase another, it won't be from him again.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Hey everyone, my monitor seems to have a yellowish/warm tint compared to my old TN panel. When opening a blank white page in MSPaint side-by-side with my TN panel, it actually looks "white-er" and better on the other monitor.

I've tried using various different color profiles as listed in the OP, as well as swapping out DVI cables. I'm also still running at the stock 60Hz.

Has anyone else had this problem? If so, would you mind sharing your color calibration profile? I'm currently using dascth's "initial calibration" from the OP, as it looks a bit less "warm" than all the other profiles I've tried out, however, whites still seem yellowed compared to the TN.

Thanks!


----------



## Massive17

Dreamseller just contacted me and let me know that they don't have any more glossy panels (X-Star), but he offered me a QNIQ perfect pixel Matter version that can ship next week.

I wanted a glossy version, but some people have said that the Matte version has only a light tint of the anti-glare material which doesn't really affect the picture quality. What do you guys think?

If I remember correctly from reading the FAQ in this thread QNIQ and X-Star are pretty much identical, correct?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Dreamseller just contacted me and let me know that they don't have any more glossy panels (X-Star), but he offered me a QNIQ perfect pixel Matter version that can ship next week.
> 
> I wanted a glossy version, but some people have said that the Matte version has only a light tint of the anti-glare material which doesn't really affect the picture quality. What do you guys think?
> 
> If I remember correctly from reading the FAQ in this thread QNIQ and X-Star are pretty much identical, correct?


Correct, the X-Star and Qnix are basically the exact same monitor.

As for the anti-glare coating, I have my Qnix side-by-side with an ASUS matte finish monitor, and the Qnix is much less "matte" than my other monitor. Its actually a nice blend between matte and glossy. It doesn't distort image quality nearly as much as other matte finishes I've seen.

However, it IS closer to matte than it is to glossy, but I think you'd be happy with it


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> In theory, but, there are no reviews to verify this while there are two reviews of the Qnix (mine & =DEAD= from overclock.ru) with nearly identical performance.


True, well, *as far as we know* they're the exact same monitor. Same Samsung PLS panel & same bezel, the PCB *could* vary which *could* lead to differences in overclocking


----------



## BoingLoings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I cannot believe that my order from monday is coming today to my house. this is ridiculous speed from accessorieswhole.


I just ordered their Matte QNIX for 289! I went with them because they have more reviews and less negatives than green-sum.

Let's hope for fast shipping also!


----------



## Jaeflash

Well, I got a tracking number from Dream Seller, but when I track it the FedEx site says that the shipment was cancelled by the sender. I've contacted Dream Seller to find out why it's been cancelled.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Was it matte? I'm starting to think dream-seller has overextended himself, both stock and time-wise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> True, well, *as far as we know* they're the exact same monitor. Same Samsung PLS panel & same bezel, the PCB *could* vary which *could* lead to differences in overclocking


A diff PCB seems very doubtful, at least as it stands today.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frozen60*
> 
> use a dcp latency checker and post the results with your clocks


Tried that. Was getting 1000 us latency constant through every refresh rate I tried. I'm going to try going past 120Hz tonight and see if it's just that particular frequency. To me, it's just bizarre. I would never think that monitor refresh rate would have anything to do with my wifi performance. The only thing I can think of is the signal might be leaking from the cable at a frequency that distorts my Wifi band. The monitor cable is probably touching my antenna in the back of my computer(the slots are on top of each other). Will try to mess with that tonight as well.


----------



## Massive17

Thanks for sharing (+rep), I think I will stick with the QNIX (if I ever get it).

Dreamseller said he can upgrade me to Pixel Perfect QNIX free of charge, but I just realized that I paid $20-$30 more for the Glossy versionso the only thing he's actually "hooking me up" with is the pixel perfect and from what I've read is that pixel perfect doesn't guarantee anything. So if I get a dead pixel even though it's PP, i won't be able to return for exchange or refund, right?

Should I just cancel my order and or take the offer of PP Matte QNIX for $279?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Correct, the X-Star and Qnix are basically the exact same monitor.
> 
> As for the anti-glare coating, I have my Qnix side-by-side with an ASUS matte finish monitor, and the Qnix is much less "matte" than my other monitor. Its actually a nice blend between matte and glossy. It doesn't distort image quality nearly as much as other matte finishes I've seen.
> 
> However, it IS closer to matte than it is to glossy, but I think you'd be happy with it


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Thanks for sharing (+rep), I think I will stick with the QNIX (if I ever get it).
> 
> Dreamseller said he can upgrade me to Pixel Perfect QNIX free of charge, but I just realized that I paid $20-$30 more for the Glossy versionso the only thing he's actually "hooking me up" with is the pixel perfect and from what I've read is that pixel perfect doesn't guarantee anything. So if I get a dead pixel even though it's PP, i won't be able to return for exchange or refund, right?
> 
> Should I just cancel my order and or take the offer of PP Matte QNIX for $279?


Depending on the seller, "Pixel Perfect" can mean different things. I believe DreamSeller guarantees 0-2 dead pixels on his "Pixel Perfect" displays, compared to anywhere from 0-5 on the normal displays.

I was really worried about getting dead/stuck pixels on my monitor, and it turns out I did get one. But honestly, the pixel density on these is high enough that its REALLY hard to notice. I know where mine is and i still have to look pretty hard to see it. I wouldn't stress it









That said, I would recommend just buying a NON pixel perfect display. If it saves you any money that is, not sure what the pricing equates to since hes "hooking you up" and all.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Depending on the seller, "Pixel Perfect" can mean different things. I believe DreamSeller guarantees 0-2 dead pixels on his "Pixel Perfect" displays, compared to anywhere from 0-5 on the normal displays.
> 
> I was really worried about getting dead/stuck pixels on my monitor, and it turns out I did get one. But honestly, the pixel density on these is high enough that its REALLY hard to notice. I know where mine is and i still have to look pretty hard to see it. I wouldn't stress it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, I would recommend just buying a NON pixel perfect display. If it saves you any money that is, not sure what the pricing equates to since hes "hooking you up" and all.


+1 to this. It took me FOREVER to even find my dead pixel. It was really hard to see and still is. Bright pixel on the other hand would irritate me.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nightgamerx*
> 
> I ordered my Matte X-Star on the 23rd, and just received my tracking information from Dream Seller this morning. Fed Ex tracking number says the package is scheduled to be picked up on the 29th and estimated delivery to the east coast USA is Thursday the 5th. That's a week of shipping, I thought most people get theirs in about 3 days?
> 
> 
> 
> Dreamseller
Click to expand...

Monday is a holiday. Probably nothing moves in shipping. Which is typical of most holidays


----------



## TheSilentCircus

So I tried searching in this thread for this so please forgive me if this has been abundantly talked to death but I'd like to know what my options are for a high vram idle clock on my 7970 at 120hz.

It is definitely not an issue temperature wise as the idle temps are about 51c with the idle vram usage at my overclocked value (1525 at 1.20v).

If it makes a difference I am using MSi Afterburner on AMD's 13.8 beta 2 drivers, CRU is on Automatic-LCD Reduced and CCC has the reduce DVI function ticked. I was reading that this could be an Afterburner problem and a solution could be that I add a 110hz refresh rate and put it on while in Windows then just adjust back to 120hz when I am gaming. When I get home from work I might just try a cru reset then start from scratch to see if it helps any.


----------



## dmikester1

Am I right in assuming that these monitors will not do 3D?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> Am I right in assuming that these monitors will not do 3D?


120hz active shutter 3D (Nvidia 3DVision) will not work.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Tried that. Was getting 1000 us latency constant through every refresh rate I tried. I'm going to try going past 120Hz tonight and see if it's just that particular frequency. To me, it's just bizarre. I would never think that monitor refresh rate would have anything to do with my wifi performance. The only thing I can think of is the signal might be leaking from the cable at a frequency that distorts my Wifi band. The monitor cable is probably touching my antenna in the back of my computer(the slots are on top of each other). Will try to mess with that tonight as well.


So an update on my progress. 120Hz brings my Wifi speeds to a crawl while on 122Hz everything works perfectly fine. So strange... Are there any drawbacks to staying on such a random number like 122Hz?


----------



## Klopek

Got my Qnix yesterday from Green-Sum. Happy - no dead/stuck pixels and only minor bleeding at the bottom when viewing a black screen. When I first inspected the screen I did notice that there was some clouding visible in 3 distinct and quite large spots near the center. Thankfully after using it for a few hours this appears to have completely cleared up.

I opened it up today (did not enjoy popping the plastic) to remove the stand neck but also figured I'd try the bleed tape fix. I got so far as unscrewing the metal frame supports before I *completely* lost my nerve. I could not get that metal frame off easily and was convinced I was going to end up wrecking something if I kept jimmying around trying to force it off. Gave up.









Haven't tried overclocking yet nor applying colour profiles - but it looks great out-of-the-box. There's definitely more motion blur compared to my 3ms TV but it's not a huge downgrade.

Tried Bioshock Infinite and was still hitting 60fps+ at 1440p on Ultra with a 7970. Had to apply triple buffering through Radeon Pro for the few moments it did drop frames.


----------



## Klopek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> So an update on my progress. 120Hz brings my Wifi speeds to a crawl while on 122Hz everything works perfectly fine. So strange... Are there any drawbacks to staying on such a random number like 122Hz?


You should stick to multiples of 24 if you watch 24fps movies and TV shows. If not, I don't think it matters.

The last guy having issues with his Wi-fi changed the frequency settings on his router to resolve/avoid the conflict.


----------



## gl0ry

Got mine in today, took two days... holy wow.

I'll set them up later and see how they are, these are pixel perfect versions from aaccessorieswhole which are guaranteed 0 dead pixel and minimal blb


----------



## GoneTurbo

Qnix? How much did you get it for and from who?


----------



## zazzn

Dreamseller must have been out of monitors for the week, I just got my notification as well. But I ordered on the 16th. So......

I'm not going to complain I understand stuff happens but I found another seller for 269, and was about to cancel.

Anyways, i got a fedex number today so I assume I should get it sometime next week.









** Update **

Just found out this clown shipped it international standard shipping. So much for express.....

So I ordered on the 19th paid on the 19th, 28th it finally ships but with international standard service.

BIG THUMBS down for this seller..


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> Qnix? How much did you get it for and from who?


Qnix Matte, Paid 359 for them each. accessorieswhole guarantees 0 dead pixels and minimal bnb with his perfect pixel listings.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klopek*
> 
> You should stick to multiples of 24 if you watch 24fps movies and TV shows. If not, I don't think it matters.
> 
> The last guy having issues with his Wi-fi changed the frequency settings on his router to resolve/avoid the conflict.


Good call, thanks! Switched to channel 6 and it's fine at 120 Hz. Should have done that in the first place.


----------



## gl0ry

I remember reading somewhere that the real perfect panels had those korean stickers on them. Accessorieswhole did deliver. Have yet to open them up!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah...you don't really know jack until you fire them up...


----------



## caenlen

2 QUESTIONS

QUESTION 1 How do I install the Catleap driver? I did advanced startup in win 8 and disabled driver signature enforcement, catleap driver said it installed successfully so i rebooted, and it still shows the same generic PnP monitor in color management, nothing else in the drop down menu, same when I go to properities or CRU no changes or catleap written anywhere.

QUESTION 2 I just went to play a youtube video and my monitor crashed at 105hz, i disabled hardware acceleration and no more crashes, so I should be safe and good to go now right?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I remember reading somewhere that the real perfect panels had those korean stickers on them. Accessorieswhole did deliver. Have yet to open them up!


Doubt that's true... The sticker says "Wide Viewing Angle". Mine had a big red sticker with a red exclamation point with Korean text saying "Tempered glass". I'm convinced it's just luck unless you get a seller that actually opens and checks everything.


----------



## milan616

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> So an update on my progress. 120Hz brings my Wifi speeds to a crawl while on 122Hz everything works perfectly fine. So strange... Are there any drawbacks to staying on such a random number like 122Hz?


I wonder if your pixel clock is ending up at 2.4ghz or some orthogonal frequency and killing wifi due to unshielded components. Doubtful, but would be interesting...


----------



## Jaeflash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> Just found out this clown shipped it international standard shipping. So much for express.....
> 
> So I ordered on the 19th paid on the 19th, 28th it finally ships but with international standard service.
> 
> BIG THUMBS down for this seller..


Yeah, I noticed that on mine too.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> 2 QUESTIONS
> 
> QUESTION 1 How do I install the Catleap driver? I did advanced startup in win 8 and disabled driver signature enforcement, catleap driver said it installed successfully so i rebooted, and it still shows the same generic PnP monitor in color management, nothing else in the drop down menu, same when I go to properities or CRU no changes or catleap written anywhere.
> 
> QUESTION 2 I just went to play a youtube video and my monitor crashed at 105hz, i disabled hardware acceleration and no more crashes, so I should be safe and good to go now right?


anyone welcome to answer my two questions ^^


----------



## Tray

Hey guys, just received my qnix.
I noticed that its quite warm(yellow in color). Attempts to change it throw other colors off balance(nVidia control panel). How do I get whites looking as white as possible?

PS for more info: Dream-seller on ebay, can use 120Hz after installing nvidia patcher...oh Ill just enter this in the form


----------



## gl0ry

so one of my monitors has great perfect color and the other one has a bit of a yellow tint. Any one know what the reason behind this is and if there's any solution?


----------



## gl0ry

Hm, when I use two of these on my 780, the monitor freaks out and has a bunch of artifacts even at default hz. anyone know what's going on?

Edit: disregard this for now I guess.. Dunno what happened but I was able to avoid this again for now.


----------



## GoneTurbo

Just placed an order on a Qnix from green-sum 30mins ago and just gotten a shipping notification









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> so one of my monitors has great perfect color and the other one has a bit of a yellow tint. Any one know what the reason behind this is and if there's any solution?


Perfect pixel on both of them?


----------



## Burnt

I bought from dreamseller as well and mine is also economy shipping. Not too happy about that considering that I order over a week ago and now my monitor isn't expected to be here until next Friday. I am not sure if I want to cancel the order or if I even can anymore but you can sure as hell bet I won't be in a good mood if I get a messed up monitor after waiting this long when I could have bought it from quite a few other places.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> Just placed an order on a Qnix from green-sum 30mins ago and just gotten a shipping notification
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect pixel on both of them?


Yes, no dead pixels and BLB isn't very noticeable for me. The color on one of them is drop dead gorgeous. The other one has a yellow tint like I'm wearing gunner glasses or something.

Both are overclockin to 120hz without an issue, opted to stay at 96hz for now. Still testing

These color issues occur with or without OC on that second panel. Honestly its not very noticeable. I only notice it because the other one is literally perfect in comparison color wise.


----------



## Burnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Yes, no dead pixels and BLB isn't very noticeable for me. The color on one of them is drop dead gorgeous. The other one has a yellow tint like I'm wearing gunner glasses or something.
> 
> Both are overclockin to 120hz without an issue, opted to stay at 96hz for now. Still testing
> 
> These color issues occur with or without OC on that second panel. Honestly its not very noticeable. I only notice it because the other one is literally perfect in comparison color wise.


I think I remember reading somewhere that yellowing of the screen is caused by too much pressure on the panel from the casing. Not sure if that is your problem but I think it could be something around those lines. Could try loosening some screws and see if that fixes it.


----------



## pandalord

Just got my Qnix QX2710 Matte yesterday from green-sum for 330$. It shipped in less than a week and came with no dead/stuck pixels and with standard minor back light bleed. Would definitely recommend green-sum.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burnt*
> 
> I think I remember reading somewhere that yellowing of the screen is caused by too much pressure on the panel from the casing. Not sure if that is your problem but I think it could be something around those lines. Could try loosening some screws and see if that fixes it.


Hm, I dont think that's possible is it? it's just the whole color profile of the monitor./


----------



## Burnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Hm, I dont think that's possible is it? it's just the whole color profile of the monitor./


Well it is the fact that you said yellow made me think of the pressure issue. I'll look around to see if that is indeed something that causes yellowing of the image color. Hopefully someone who knows more then me will chime in.


----------



## Burnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burnt*
> 
> Well it is the fact that you said yellow made me think of the pressure issue. I'll look around to see if that is indeed something that causes yellowing of the image color. Hopefully someone who knows more then me will chime in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Hm, I dont think that's possible is it? it's just the whole color profile of the monitor./


All right, around page 182 they are talking about yellowing. It seems that if your whole screen has a yellow tint then it can be fixed by a color profile. If it is only a certain area then it is probably caused by BLB which can be fixed too.

Hope that helped a little. I swear I read somewhere about pressure having an effect on the panels. I am kinda sleep deprived though and we all know what happens when you mix that and answering on forums. I also accidentally went to a certain three letter forum site looking for answers....this site is much more mature is all I can really say about that!


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burnt*
> 
> All right, around page 182 they are talking about yellowing. It seems that if your whole screen has a yellow tint then it can be fixed by a color profile. If it is only a certain area then it is probably caused by BLB which can be fixed too.
> 
> Hope that helped a little. I swear I read somewhere about pressure having an effect on the panels. I am kinda sleep deprived though and we all know what happens when you mix that and answering on forums. I also accidentally went to a certain three letter forum site looking for answers....this site is much more mature is all I can really say about that!


Yeah I'm looking for a color profile for that, cant find one yet


----------



## Burnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Yeah I'm looking for a color profile for that, cant find one yet


The OP has stuff listed on color profiles. You probably already looked at that though.

I wish you the best of luck friend. When my monitor finally comes we'll see if I have the same issues. With my luck with this purchase I probably will.


----------



## MenacingTuba

The 1st post has plenty of color profiles to chose from.

OP needs to change the thread title to *Qnix/X-Star PLS: Refer to 1st Post for All Relevant Info*


----------



## Tray

none really fix it. How do you make your own profile?

if anyone finds one to fix yellow tint please let me know


----------



## Sungbaby

I have the QNIX 2710, and instead of following the OP's method of overclocking, I just went to the NVIDIA control panel and set a custom resolution to 75Hz. Is this safe? Or should I be using a different method/setting a different frame rate?

Computer specs:

QNIX 2710 2560x1440 Display
AMD FX-8350
PNY GeForce GTX 760
8GB 1600 DDR3 RAM
Cooler Master S524 CPU Cooler
Rosewill 750W Gold PSU
Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 Motherboard


----------



## Burnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tray*
> 
> none really fix it. How do you make your own profile?
> 
> if anyone finds one to fix yellow tint please let me know


You could use the nvidia control panel or amd catalyst to edit the colors. I would assume you would need more blue to counteract the "warm" yellow. Tweaking it by your eye can take forever but if you get it to where you can deal with it you will get used to it. Or if you have access to a monitor spyder that will give you a very VERY accurate color profile but they are pricey for what could be a one time use.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The 1st post has plenty of color profiles to chose from.
> 
> OP needs to change the thread title to *Qnix/X-Star PLS: Refer to 1st Post for All Relevant Info*


I know that. I was talking about ICC profiles to correct the yellowish tint. I've since then used the RGB adjustment in the Nvidia Drivers and have found a fairly suitable level. The differences are mostly in the whiite, which can't really be adjusted too much, but the other colors are pretty spot on.

The one I use as my main monitor is really amazing though. I'm using the Asus PB278Q v3.icc. That is by far my favorite one.

accessorieswhole is an amazing business. I told messaged them about my second monitor having a slight a yellow tint. Their reply was that they can't guarantee colors are all uniform (of course no one can) and he even offered me to refund the difference from the pixel perfect and normal panel price.

I cannot recommend these guys enough. 2 days from South Korea to USA, perfect customer service, responds within minutes.


----------



## Ghost12

I have a problem with my qnix and wondering if anyone knows the reason or the cause, on the first day of use I left it on standby for maybe ten minutes, when came back it was in what can only be described as a test mode, ie looping the dead pixel colour screens and grey scale screens, nothing I could do to bring it out of this mode so had to hart reset my rig, unplug the screen etc then was fine again. That night I switched it off overnight. Last night left on standby and this morning I have switched on to find it yet again in this mode only this time have unplugged several times and it is still in that mode, now typing on 15" 900p, really not amused.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance


----------



## ColdFlo

Windows 8.1 RTM is out. Haven't installed it yet but from the posts it looks solid.
http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/47459-LEAK-MICROSOFT-WINDOWS-8-1-RTM-X86-x64-ENGLISH-DVD-WZT

Oh god is it fast and optimized. So much better than even the jump from 7 to 8. Snappy snappy snappy makes me happy happy happy.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> so one of my monitors has great perfect color and the other one has a bit of a yellow tint. Any one know what the reason behind this is and if there's any solution?


Mine also has a bit of a yellow tint :/ I've been struggling with it for the past few days. I've tried every ICC listed in the OP

It SEEMS to help if you lower the Red & Green values, but I can't get whites to even look as white as my old TN panel


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Mine also has a bit of a yellow tint :/ I've been struggling with it for the past few days. I've tried every ICC listed in the OP
> 
> It SEEMS to help if you lower the Red & Green values, but I can't get whites to even look as white as my old TN panel


The only problem with Windows calibration is it only gives you RGB values many steps after the gamma and there is no good way to quickly switch between them. On top of that the gamma test they give you is lame. There's a lot more to look at, when correcting grey gamma, than looking at the one image Windows provides. Quick Gamma is a little better to switch between colors and is free. I personally use The color profile creator that Adobe provided with CS2 years ago(forget what it's called). I also use a Sypder2Express first to get the "real" baseline color correction and then adjust from there. If you can't get your whites to look white by adjusting those values than you may have to try some more detailed color calibration software. My wife has a monitor that was a little yellow and the only way we got it perfect was by using our friends updated calibrator that had a sensor for 3 channel RGB and for wide and standard gamut. The software alone helped, but there was always a hint of yellow until we used that calibrator.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Those that are using downloaded ICCs need to set the Windows Color CP to activate the profile's gamma values/adjustments as well. See here:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#install

Quote:


> You will also need to enable the profiles gamma correction.
> 
> Go into the advanced tab. You need to select "use Windows display calibration" but it is greyed out initially.
> 
> Click "change system defaults" and a new window pops up which looks the same as the previous one
> 
> Click on "advanced" tab and you should be able to tick "use Windows display calibration" from there. *You should see a change in the screens gamma as the corrections from the profile are loaded*.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Those that are using downloaded ICCs need to set the Windows Color CP to activate the profile's gamma values/adjustments as well. See here:
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#install


I've done this but have yet to find an ICC that gets rid of the yellowish tint to my whites. Anyone have a good colorimeter I could borrow to match my 2 displays?







I'll pay shipping + tip


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Hmm well there is a dude who has lent out his Spyder on an international tour (in Freebies) but not sure if still possible to get in on that. Even manual adjustment in gpu cp not helping (that can be a trial-and-error pain, but still...)?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Hmm well there is a dude who has lent out his Spyder on an international tour (in Freebies) but not sure if still possible to get in on that. Even manual adjustment in gpu cp not helping (that can be a trial-and-error pain, but still...)?


I've tried using the Nvidia Control Panel to adjust the colors as well, I can make the Qnix look pretty good (so i think), but then when I compare it to my other screen, they just dont match :/ The Qnix's whites just look so tinted in comparison.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well at this point I am not convinced your own calibration would make a huge diff in this regard either but still definitely worth a shot. On that note, I sent you a PM.


----------



## gl0ry

I feel like I'm having difficulty with the nvidia drivers. For example I rebooted and my first screen got affected by my adjustments too afterwards. Is there any work around or alternatives to this?

Edit: Yeah nvidia drivers seem to affect both monitors after a restart.. this makes the calibration no good for me.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> I've done this but have yet to find an ICC that gets rid of the yellowish tint to my whites. Anyone have a good colorimeter I could borrow to match my 2 displays?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll pay shipping + tip


I only have a Spyder 2, which doesn't support a wide gamut. It may help but if I were you, I would try and find a Spyder 3 or 4 instead. I was thinking of picking one up as much as I have used this thing in the past 5 years.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I feel like I'm having difficulty with the nvidia drivers. For example I rebooted and my first screen got affected by my adjustments too afterwards. Is there any work around or alternatives to this?
> 
> Edit: Yeah nvidia drivers seem to affect both monitors after a restart.. this makes the calibration no good for me.


Use windows color management. From there, you can choose which monitor to pick the profile from.


----------



## Ghost12

Has nobody got any idea why my monitor is in a looping test mode??????????????????????? Return is going to be a major headache


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Has nobody got any idea why my monitor is in a looping test mode??????????????????????? Return is going to be a major headache


Try and rule out the power supply and DVI cable. I know mine flashed to test mode for a moment when putting the DVI cable in with the power on. Never figured out why and it never did it again. Other than that, you might have to return it.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Has nobody got any idea why my monitor is in a looping test mode??????????????????????? Return is going to be a major headache


Could be a faulty PCB. Not a clue how to test/fix that though.

If you do return seller is likely to ask you to pay shipping/offer a refund. Reject both, and say "you may have to file an ebay claim over this" (or words to that effect) and if they don't move in the next few days file a claim. Seems that that is the only way to get some sellers to do anything.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Try and rule out the power supply and DVI cable. I know mine flashed to test mode for a moment when putting the DVI cable in with the power on. Never figured out why and it never did it again. Other than that, you might have to return it.


Yes at one point about a week after I first hooked it up I could only get it to flash the damn colors then go black. Turned out it suddenly needed both top and bottom pins of DVI cable *screwed in completely tight*. Required a screwdriver. A scary and crappy time that was before I figured it out.

It generally does do the color flash when it is powered on but has no video signal input. Maybe it's some kinda self test.


----------



## dmikester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> 120hz active shutter 3D (Nvidia 3DVision) will not work.


So does that mean it is possible with an AMD card?


----------



## Ghost12

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> Sounds like an os problem or a driver problem or when u put it in sleep mode or whatever and it comes out ive had bugs at that juncture as well. If the monitor is in test mode it means its receiving a signal it cant process for whatever reason. DVI cable driver os bad monitor there are many possible problems in that drive chain. You need to study more about drivers and monitors and your pc in general if someone else had run into that issue and they saw your post they would most likely chime in and help you. Demanding info or asking over and over in a thread this long is not going to help you very much. Your probably better off making your own thread or doing allot of googling. Doing allot of googling(for days or weeks) tends to fix most of my problems that can be fixed. Asking a bunch of noobs in one location is no good. Most of the data in forums and on the internet is erroneous and its a waste of time to ask a small group of idiots anything as they will never have the answer(especially for my kind of questions). But, if you search long and hard through hundreds of thousands of pages you will find gems they are out there perfect gems of knowledge that lead you to the answer or help you directly. Some questions you have about computers you wont google across the answer in under a decade(I've had a few of those). Sorry can't help you with that one as I've never had that on this monitor and I don't fully know your setup which you didnt detail most likely cause your a noob and thats why you didnt supply all the givens, but I have my own things to google so just go ahead and help yourself. I wouldn't jump to the conclusion its a faulty monitor until you have ruled everything else out first and foremost ruling out yourself and your own ignorance. If I had to guess pebkac. Reinstall everything clean your drivers and reinstall(the only correct way to reinstall). Most people cant clean their computers or troubleshoot their own stuff and if those fail reinstall everything if the problem still exists and you did a clean wipe then your only problem is hardware but if the monitor is working in other situations except coming out of sleep as in you turn the monitor on and it displays its not the monitor its your computer driver or os. See how much explaining it took just to tell you that.






Terrible post, Im no noob, my rig is in my sig by the way. Tried on two different pc setups so you can rule out most of your post but thanks for taking the time to reply, and if I was you I would refrain from calling people names on OCN.

[email protected] thanks for that reply I am now in the process of contacting the seller through email to their customer support and ebay itself


----------



## Xentar712

I'm pretty sure this is the thread to be asking his kind of questions considering the monitor isn't widely sold in the US and there is no support elsewhere. Not sure who you're calling noobs or idiots though...


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes at one point about a week after I first hooked it up I could only get it to flash the damn colors then go black. Turned out it suddenly needed both top and bottom pins of DVI cable *screwed in completely tight*. Required a screwdriver. A scary and crappy time that was before I figured it out.
> 
> It generally does do the color flash when it is powered on but has no video signal input. Maybe it's some kinda self test.


Have tried the screwdriver tight, it is definitely a problem with the standby, the first day had it i went to make some supper leaving it on as you would and when came back into the room the flashing was on. I had to switch off the rig and unplug the screen which fixed it. Turned off that night but last night just shut down my rig as normal and left on standby. It is now stuck in that mode. It is not a pc or driver or gpu issue, have tried on my other system with a different gpu and os and the same result.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Use windows color management. From there, you can choose which monitor to pick the profile from.


I do use windows color management. Everytime I reboot, nvidia drivers apply those gamma/rgb settings to both monitors


----------



## coelacanth

@ColdFlo How is your monitor running? What Hz have you achieved? What Hz do you game at and what do you use for web browsing? What method did you use to OC your mon? Curious since you seem to have done a deeper dive into this mon than many others.


----------



## junkrok

Gotta love ColdFlo, always diplomatic!


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I do use windows color management. Everytime I reboot, nvidia drivers apply those gamma/rgb settings to both monitors


So in Color Management, under display 1 there should be your profile for that monitor(Picture with arrow points to where the profile should be. I'm at work so mine is blank). Under display 2, there should be a different profile - the one you created calibrating your second display. If they are the same, that's your problem. If they are different, something else is changing the profile after the fact. Lots of programs will load their own profiles and you could have one of them doing so at startup. Also, if there is more than one profile listed in Color Management, make sure you are setting the calibrated profile as default.

1.jpg 53k .jpg file


----------



## gl0ry

Nevermind I just used windows calibration and adjusted the green levels from there. Worked out great


----------



## Bethamon

Here is a color profile for everyone who has some yellow tint with their Qnix QX2710 at 120Hz.

Hardware I used to calibrate: *QUATO Silver Haze 3* (a precise multi channel colorimeter optimized for LCDs)

sRGB colors
luminance: 120 cd/m2
black point: 0 cd/m2
white point temperature: 6500K

*Attention: PLEASE DON'T USE THIS PROFILE ANYMORE ! TRY THIS ONE INSTEAD* = http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/6300#post_20705987

Qnix_QX2710_icc_color_profile.zip 16k .zip file

PS: How-Tos included in the .zip file.

Would be nice to hear some reports from people who have now better colours with their Qnix & co.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The 1st post has plenty of color profiles to chose from.
> 
> OP needs to change the thread title to *Qnix/X-Star PLS: Refer to 1st Post for All Relevant Info*


lol I see what you're trying to do, but It won't matter how many flags I throw out. There will always be people asking FAQ. I suppose that keeps the FAQ up to date, and we get to help people









I am open to changing the name of the thread. Something like "[Official] The Qnix @ X-Star --2710 Club"

No one really knows what PLS means. It isn't near as common as IPS


----------



## jezzer

What you mean with no one knows what PLS means?

PLS stands for *plane to line switching*, it's an alternative technique made by samsung against IPS from Hitachi wich stands for *in-plane switching*?


----------



## buffsportsman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> What you mean with no one knows what PLS means?
> 
> PLS stands for *plane to line switching*, it's an alternative technique made by samsung against IPS from Hitachi wich stands for *in-plane switching*?


I think he meant that nobody knows the importance/features of PLS compared to IPS.


----------



## Bethamon

Well, I switched to another colorimeter software (dispcalGUI) with which I achieved much better results.
I also added profiles for 60Hz and 96Hz now. The difference between vanilla and new profiles is huge.


Hardware used: Silver Haze 3 (a precise multi channel colorimeter optimized for LCDs)
Software used: dispcalGUI 1.2.7.0
luminance: 265 cd/m2
black point: 0.0 cd/m2
white point temperature: 6554K
sRGB @ 60HZ: ~100%
sRGB @ 96Hz: 99,4%
sRGB @ 120Hz: 98,1%

Qnix_QX2710_color_profiles.zip 33k .zip file


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bethamon*
> 
> Well, I switched to another colorimeter software (dispcalGUI) with which I achieved much better results.
> I also added profiles for 60Hz and 96Hz now. The difference between vanilla and new profiles is huge.
> 
> 
> Hardware used: Silver Haze 3 (a precise multi channel colorimeter optimized for LCDs)
> Software used: dispcalGUI 1.2.7.0
> luminance: 265 cd/m2
> black point: 0.0 cd/m2
> white point temperature: 6554K
> sRGB @ 60HZ: ~100%
> sRGB @ 96Hz: 99,4%
> sRGB @ 120Hz: 98,1%
> 
> Qnix_QX2710_color_profiles.zip 33k .zip file


265cd/m2 ... your eyes must be burning through their sockets.

Black point should be left at "as measured" though - I did a write up on this, try these settings: http://www.overclock.net/t/1397938/my-spyder4elite-monitor-calibrator-loan-thread/160#post_20476964


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Heh heh I thought I knew of something else named Silver Haze and Googling for that device proved it...
















Thanks for your contributions. I will try your ICCs plus am going to be giving DispcalGUI a shot with a DTP-94 and an eye 1 display 2 I have lying around at work. I tried to find free software for this months ago and inexplicably did not run into this one.


----------



## paulkon

Honestly, if you care about the colors enough to even install a profile, I recommend buying a colorimeter. After buying the i1Display 3 and using it with Argyll and madVR test patterns and the recommended parameters, I can vouch for doing color accurate professional imaging work on these monitors*. The resulting precision of the chromaticity coordinates is very close to lab sRGB coordinates. And you can use the colorimeter for calibrating more than once to maintain accuracy.

* I would not recommend using these monitors for reading X-Rays though.


----------



## GoneTurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> Windows 8.1 RTM is out. Haven't installed it yet but from the posts it looks solid.
> http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/47459-LEAK-MICROSOFT-WINDOWS-8-1-RTM-X86-x64-ENGLISH-DVD-WZT
> 
> Oh god is it fast and optimized. So much better than even the jump from 7 to 8. Snappy snappy snappy makes me happy happy happy.


You're awesome. Thanks!


----------



## GoneTurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I do use windows color management. Everytime I reboot, nvidia drivers apply those gamma/rgb settings to both monitors


Can you set different profiles for each monitor? Btw, did you happen to fix your yellow tint on your 2nd Qnix?


----------



## Aftermath2006




----------



## GoneTurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*


Very cool! You on a Titan?


----------



## ColdFlo

Well I've been trying to upgrade windows and I've been tweaking games in my spare time. I'm still waiting on copper shims to come from china so really I'm still only at 80hz but I think I got a good monitor aside from a little BLB. I got my timings really tight(another sign I got a good one) 80hz I think is all you need to eliminate allot of the tearing and brainwash flicker you get at 60hz(I think 60hz is too slow for the 780 and somehow restricts it). I'm gonna go 120hz soon. I don't care what it takes if I have to volt something or even rewire the internals switch 10 DVI cables I will get 120hz unless this one is really just that bad(No Dead Pixels No Dust). You can even order replacements of all these chips right off ebay or alibaba if i reallly had to redo things... I'm opposite than most people on this QNIX. The bezel I kind of like it. I like the clear base stand too. I like the blue LED and it doesnt bother me. Sorry I was kind of tired earlier and I still am, but really either you know whats wrong or ur total noob and I have to say those things. Sounds like I guess you did know and you were hoping or something. Seems odd for your monitor to just die like that without some kind of event a little more drastic than a sleep cycle. Test mode means the panel and monitor still work just the signal processing isnt working aka the non samsung component of the monitor that circuit board in the back in that little square housing. Did you cool that chip was it at 120hz when it failed? Seems like not enough info was given. I too had a problem explaining things when I was younger and I help people allot with pcs and get tired of lazy people that just plink their keyboard and want everything handed to them. Really googling is the only way to know anything online. Don't expect anyone to help you. Most are stingy and jealous and don't want you to know more than they do(most of the time no one knows the ans). Out google them. Really right now I'm more concerned with selling my 680 and some other parts on ebay and buying another 780 so I can really drive 120hz max graphics on all the latest games than I am about actually clocking the monitor at the moment. Really wish this monitor was supported by Nvidia so I didnt need another monitor between driver installs or OS installs.
I've also been studying displays in general OLED finally came out(this month). 4K is not attainable by current graphics hardware. This monitor is the perfect stepping stone at just the right time. It doesnt get any better than this. This is it and I am 100% sure of it. All we have to do now is wait 4 years till 4k OLED comes down in price and then upgrade to that. That will be the true god monitor. Surpassing CRT and Plasma. Resolution is nice and yes I want more but at the end of the day it really comes down to contrast ratio. CRT 15000:1(funny how these numbers are easy to find now and when LCD came out 10 years ago you couldnt find these contrast numbers anywhere on the net) LCD 1000:1 Plasma 20000:1 OLED 1000000:1. OLED is 50x better than Plasma(assuming you actually have the bit depth to drive all those color grades).

Oh yeah none of your color profiles worked on mine(all of them looked far worse with green bluish turquoise tint allot of them). I was looking at that CalMan software but now I'm hesitant because it looks like cheaper colorimeters dont really perform to the level the nice ones do. That klein what an expensive piece of something we all just use a few times. What we really need is a rental service for nice ones so we can just use them a few times and return them. I need to conduct more research to find the best buy on those things.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> Can you set different profiles for each monitor? Btw, did you happen to fix your yellow tint on your 2nd Qnix?


Yes you can set a custom profile to each monitor. With some RGB tweaking (turned down green a bit) I got rid of it for the most part, the back light is still slightly "cooler" than the other one, but they both look gorgeous. They're very close in colors now.

I used the Asus color profile in the Faq.

Again, I CANNOT say enough good things about accessorieswhole. I swear they are the best business I've ever personally dealt with. 2 days international shipping... and he gave me a partial refund (deducation from perfect pixel model) because of the slight yellow tint on one of mine. He even stated that colors aren't covered by their policy but offered it to keep me happy (I was never rude or angry in the first place).

I'll take some pics later on.

By the way, 96hz makes 50-70fps feel sluggish/choppy like it's 30-40fps. Does this effect go away if I crank the refresh rate up a bit more? I used to use a 120hz TN panel and never had that kind of effect.


----------



## rusky1

Ordered a Qnix off Amazon this week! Should be here by tomorrow (according to them







), total came to right over $300 which surprised me quite a bit since it was not some random ebay auction. Can't wait to see the difference between it and my 22" TN panel.


----------



## GoneTurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Ordered a Qnix off Amazon this week! Should be here by tomorrow (according to them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), total came to right over $300 which surprised me quite a bit since it was not some random ebay auction. Can't wait to see the difference between it and my 22" TN panel.


Literally from Amazon or a 3rd party seller on Amazon?


----------



## rusky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> Literally from Amazon or a 3rd party seller on Amazon?


It was 3rd party, I'm still interested how they can deliver from Korea to the US in 2 days though.


----------



## Wickedtt

Hey guys i hope you can help i just got a Qnix 27" 2560x1440 and im trying to overclock it and nothing is happening ive done all the step and i can see the 96hz in CCC but when i go to test it in chrome using the frame skipping it shows up 60hz. Anyone that can help me i would be grateful thank you.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wickedtt*
> 
> Hey guys i hope you can help i just got a Qnix 27" 2560x1440 and im trying to overclock it and nothing is happening ive done all the step and i can see the 96hz in CCC but when i go to test it in chrome using the frame skipping it shows up 60hz. Anyone that can help me i would be grateful thank you.


Use Custom Resolution Utility. Add a profile, set it and reboot, and set it under windows resolution. That was the most successful way for me.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wickedtt*
> 
> Hey guys i hope you can help i just got a Qnix 27" 2560x1440 and im trying to overclock it and nothing is happening ive done all the step and i can see the 96hz in CCC but when i go to test it in chrome using the frame skipping it shows up 60hz. Anyone that can help me i would be grateful thank you.


If you're running multiple monitors (and it looks like you are from your avatar), do not maximize Chrome. If it touches the edge of the screen it will run at 60Hz (or whatever refresh rate your second monitor is running). Resize Chrome so the browser window is only on the Qnix and rerun the tests.


----------



## gl0ry

one of my monitors is locked at 16bit @ 120hz, is that something that can be changed or is it just a bottle neck


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> one of my monitors is locked at 16bit @ 120hz, is that something that can be changed or is it just a bottle neck


How did you overclock it?


----------



## andygully

thank you for the reply a bit late i no but thanks


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> How did you overclock it?


Custom Resolution Utility. It's on the first page FAQ


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Custom Resolution Utility. It's on the first page FAQ


Are you using any other apps like Precision X?

I had my monitor locked at 16-bit because I reset the refresh rate with Precision X and CRU didn't seem to like that. So I reinstalled drivers, redid everything with CRU and I'm fine again.


----------



## dmikester1

Will this monitor do 3D using an AMD card?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> Will this monitor do 3D using an AMD card?


This isn't a 3d monitor


----------



## dmikester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> This isn't a 3d monitor


Good to know.
Thank you


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> Heh. Well, green-sum ships quickly, but they're liars. So six of one, half-dozen of another.
> 
> Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
> First of all, we are deeply sorry for your inconvenience. We will make our best efforts to support you.
> 
> We received the pictures. Thank you for your cooperation. LCD and LED monitors could have some BLB by their manufacturing nature. In a dark background, LG, SAMSUNG, or DELL monitors have the problem. It is a limit of LCD and LED monitors. Manufacturers say it will be reduced gradually as use.
> 
> Please let us know if you have additional questions or issue. Again, sorry for your inconvenience.
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Green-Sum
> 
> What I've learned from this experience is that these Korean monitors can indeed be a very good value, but you need to be both patient and handy to fix what will more than likely be a damaged panel.
> 
> On the plus side, mine's now pretty much fine with zero dead pixels once I took the hammer and tongs (and tape) to it.


I wanted to follow up for the record. green-sum contacted me on ebay and offered me a partial refund which I accepted.

In retrospect, $250 USD for a 27 inch WQHD @ 120hz with zero dead pixels and minimal light bleed (after 30 minutes with a couple of screwdrivers) is an excellent value.

Thanks, all!


----------



## BrunOculus

Do i get a membership card for joining this club Just got an Qnix 2710 from Hulustar. Oh does pixels







and the colours! Wow, just.. Wow Even Netflix look amacing:thumb:


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> I wanted to follow up for the record. green-sum contacted me on ebay and offered me a partial refund which I accepted.
> 
> In retrospect, $250 USD for a 27 inch WQHD @ 120hz with zero dead pixels and minimal light bleed (after 30 minutes with a couple of screwdrivers) is an excellent value.
> 
> Thanks, all!


I've been dealing with him all week with my issue. Only gripe I have is he only answers 1 message a day and I feel like things are moving at a crawl. ATM, he is blaming UPS for the defect... I'm not sure that's the case but I really don't care as long as I get it fixed. The only thing I don't like is he wants to wait for UPS's claim to go through before doing anything more. That could take another week. I'm being patient though because the monitor is still usable. Hopefully it will all work out.


----------



## Screams

Any tutorials on how to either stop/quieten down the buzzing noise?
Doesn't Buzz @ all on 60hz but @ 120hz it turns on (havent tried any other hz cept these 2)

(happens on white backgrounds mainly, Wikipedia being the worst that comes to mind)

Other than that this monitor is amazing.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screams*
> 
> Any tutorials on how to either stop/quieten down the buzzing noise?
> Doesn't Buzz @ all on 60hz but @ 120hz it turns on (havent tried any other hz cept these 2)
> 
> (happens on white backgrounds mainly, Wikipedia being the worst that comes to mind)
> 
> Other than that this monitor is amazing.


I used to have that problem with my old Samsung syncmaster monitors that were built during that time where cheapo caps were being used. It could be a bad cap on the power board. It could be the brick also(although I've never had that problem) so check there too. You can try to dampen it with electrical epoxy or you can replace the cap itself. If you use glue, try not to go overboard because it reduces heat transfer. It might be hard to identify which one because of the high frequency but if you are patient enough you'll track it down.

Of course the easy fix is to use a different refresh rate.







Another thing to try is a different outlet. It sounds stupid but different outlets(or power strips) might change the voltage enough to tweak the frequency. Good luck, I know how you feel. I hate that noise!


----------



## Robertdt

Well, my QNIX QX2710 Evolution II monitor arrived today and so far, I am extremely pleased. I'm upgrading from a nice LG 27" 1080p monitor and the QNIX is significantly improved in terms of picture quality, color clarity, brightness, and just the overall experience. This is a great panel and as far as I can tell, I don't have any stuck pixels or back lighting bleed.

Movies (HDX and Itunes HD) look amazing and the difference in picture quality is basically enormous. I'm really pleased so far with the panel and essentially everything (the back has a nice texture), construction looks reasonably solid.

The only drawback so far is the stand, which others have also mentioned, in that it does seem a little less sturdy than would be ideal. I may get a new desk actually as mine can be slightly wobbly. I am also considering getting a new stand for the monitor but we'll have to see how safe it is to install it (probably will go this route as long as it's not really problematic).

Overall, HUGE improvement from my prior monitor which I thought was pretty good in itself. Amazing picture quality.

Only other drawback is my 7950 does seem to get owned in FPS in the Arma III beta. I think I went from about 50-60 to 30-40, even after turning AA off. Hopefully the full release will run better.

However, I definitely would not go back to a 1080p screen and this monitor is such an improvement as to be almost a new experience when watching movies etc.

Am interested in overclocking it too but slightly concerned about safety of doing so of course. Will read more on it.

Overall though, extremely pleased with the quality for the price (fast shipping too, ordered Monday and received Friday with expedited). Best upgrade I've made to my PC recently I think.


----------



## Massive17

Congrats on the monitor!

Not sure if it's covered in the FAQ, but what utilities do you guys use to check back-light bleed, dead pixels, and etc. ?


----------



## Robertdt

I just tried a few websites with black backgrounds and other color backgrounds and then scanned for backlight (to the best of my ability to see) and stuck pixels (could not see any).

I have been having some problems with watching HD content though. I keep getting an HDCP error message on Vudu HDX movies and which went away for some reason and I was able to watch HDX after downloading Itunes to watch an HD movie on there, but then when I tried switching scaling to GPU scaling, I began getting the same error again and this time Itunes won't play the movie either.

Not sure if this is an AMD driver thing as several people with Nvidia cards have reported no problems or if it is something else.


----------



## Robertdt

Any ideas on this HDCP content thing? I can't watch I Tunes HD or Vudu HDX movies now ... I've tried a few things like clearing cache and reinstalling Itunes and Adobe Flash (Vudu) but it doesn't work.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Any ideas on this HDCP content thing? I can't watch I Tunes HD or Vudu HDX movies now ... I've tried a few things like clearing cache and reinstalling Itunes and Adobe Flash (Vudu) but it doesn't work.


Supposedly it's test mode that breaks HDCP, but that's no longer required to OC these monitors.


----------



## Robertdt

Ok great, I was able to solve it. When I switched from monitor scaling to GPU scaling to compare, it caused some kind of error in device manager with the monitor not being detected properly. Once I uninstalled the monitor and restarted Windows, allowing the monitor to be installed properly and show up without error in device manager, I was able to watch HD content again.

And it looks spectacular!


----------



## Xentar712

So I went ahead and got one of those Monoprice cables everyone recommended even though I've been getting a stable 120Hz all this time. I've been using the cable that came with my Monoprice Zero-G 27" monitor until now and was planning on selling it with that monitor when the time comes. I assumed I would be getting the same cable but instead I got this incredibly thick beast of a cable! To my surprise, it didn't work as well. I turned the computer on and was immediately getting screen tear at 120Hz. I tested the old cord again and watched a 1080p movie with no tear. Put the monoprice 24AWG cord back and got screen tear again. I was kind of surprised really... I'll try again later and this time with the cord straightened(it's so thick it stayed coiled) but I don't think I'll be using this thicker cable.

The cable I'm using is Space Shuttle-D E101344, Style 20276, 30V, 5ft DVI-D. Picture is attached. There's a lot of single link versions but this is one of the few dual link DVI versions I could find on ebay(might want to verify before purchasing)

So I wanted to test the true limit of this cable but wasn't able to get Nvidia to detect a refresh rate of 132Hz. Any idea why?


----------



## General121

People stopped recommending the thick cable awhile back since they found it didn't really work, as you have found.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> People stopped recommending the thick cable awhile back since they found it didn't really work, as you have found.


Doh! Guess I shouldn't have skipped around in the thread so much. Would have saved some money.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Ok great, I was able to solve it. When I switched from monitor scaling to GPU scaling to compare, it caused some kind of error in device manager with the monitor not being detected properly. Once I uninstalled the monitor and restarted Windows, allowing the monitor to be installed properly and show up without error in device manager, I was able to watch HD content again.
> 
> And it looks spectacular!


Damn... I thought I had this solved, but for some reason it keeps reverting back to the "Non-HDCP compliant" message. I'm not sure what is changing that is causing this error. Anyone have any ideas?

This is on Vudu HDX for the most part. What is odd is that when I install ITunes and watch an HD movie on Itunes, suddenly Vudu lets me watch HDX again. But when I uninstall Itunes, I can't watch HDX.

??

I've tried running the CyberDVD Blu-ray diagnostics and when this error occurs, the diagnostic says my monitor AND drivers are not HDCP compliant.

I'm running the most recent 5/13 AMD drivers for my 7950. I could try the beta drivers but does anyone have any ideas as to what might be causing this?


----------



## hutt132

I have my monitor at 120Hz and it looks darker than at 60Hz. I used the 2.2 Gamma 6500k Color Temperature ICC profile which makes it better, but it still seems kind of dark. Is there any way to make it brighter? I have my brightness button clicked all the way up.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I have my monitor at 120Hz and it looks darker than at 60Hz. I used the 2.2 Gamma 6500k Color Temperature ICC profile which makes it better, but it still seems kind of dark. Is there any way to make it brighter? I have my brightness button clicked all the way up.


That's a common "side-effect" of overclocking it to higher numbers. You have to just turn the brightness all the way up and use gamma boosted ICC profiles.

I chose to stay at 96hz because the screen is very smooth and the colors still remain crisp and vibrant.


----------



## BoingLoings

Bought 27" Qnix QX2710 Evolution II MATTE August 28 from "accessorieswhole" an ebay seller and got it August 30th. Seller was very responsive towards email and shipped very fast. The monitor came inside a brown box with Fragile stickers all over it. Got it for $289.

Was able to overclock to 120hz with no problem, but I just default at 96hz which seem like an norm. I used a 10ft Monoprice D-DVI 28awg cable which was like 7 dollars, I just bought it because I bought a $12 monitor also.

Very minimal BLB with 1 stuck/dead? white pixel. Good thing it's white, it blends in with most environment and does not stand out!

The only problem I ran into was running the Netflix app on Windows 8. Something about the graphic card was not verified, I read in a post that it was only an AMD problem.


----------



## jokrik

Just did the tape fix,
have to redid the tape twice, first try the bleed get worse I think the way you open the panel frame does make a different
If you try to push it too hard it would bend the frame and bleed start to appear on other places

but I double the tape on those bleed spots which appear after the first taping

bleed is still there but very low

Gonna take pictures tonight


----------



## lrfpp1

Hello,

I have received my QNIX full connection and instaler
ati 7970 graphics card via dual dvi and windows 8

I tried to overclock it and I think I'm all correctemant reboot but I have a black screen, no signal

my mistake or inconsistency of the screen?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Offhand sounds like a overclock/software mistake but you have given us about as limited information as possible here dude. OC how? What Hz? Etc etc. Does safe mode boot give signal?


----------



## geoxile

Can anyone recommend a cheap VESA stand for the QNIX? Around $30 or less?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a cheap VESA stand for the QNIX? Around $30 or less?


There are a ton of options at monoprice. People seem to like this one:
www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

My friend just bought this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

Links to more options:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=desk+mount+brackets
http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=vesa


----------



## Darknight1

I honestly don't get the whole "the stand sux" thing.

Sure, it's not the best - and if you push on it it'll wiggle; but if you leave it alone it keeps the monitor stood roughly vertical that's good enough for me.

To each their own


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> There are a ton of options at monoprice. People seem to like this one:
> www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 
> Mt friend just bought this one:
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
> 
> Links to more options:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=desk+mount+brackets
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=vesa


I can't use those clamp-type mounts. For that first stand, it says the maximum display size is 23". Will the QNIX really fit it?


----------



## Ostbiten

I've recieved my QNIX yesterday and I am really impressed by it.

So today I tried overclocking it, but I ran into a problem when overclocking.

I get some strange ''dark line'' or something, that ONLY shows up on greyish-backgrounds, nothing else, so I barely see it - but still, what can the problem be?

I am running a AMD 7950 btw.

Photo of monitor in 60 hz (original) Here it's all normal.



And here is what I get when clocking it to 96 hz, here you can see some ''dark line'' or something, and just too see it I got a grey background, because otherwise it doesn't show up. It's the same when overclocking too 85 hz as well. And that's the most I've overclocked, so haven't tested any 120 hz or anything else.


----------



## BoingLoings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a cheap VESA stand for the QNIX? Around $30 or less?


Don't forget the Friends and Family discount: "EMP0794"

It gives you the price that it would cost if you bought 50+

Expires 9/15


----------



## lrfpp1

Actually to make it simple for my english sucks ^^

when I used cru-1.0.1 My screen is not seen by the cannula redemarage Windows

In safe mode the screen is ralume


----------



## geoxile

www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

It seems there are complaints about the tilt being too weak even when fixed. I recall someone posting about an HP replacement monitor stand but I can't find it.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 
> It seems there are complaints about the tilt being too weak even when fixed. I recall someone posting about an HP replacement monitor stand but I can't find it.


Using the "search this thread" tool:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/4520#post_20444092

Hope that helps.


----------



## Robertdt

So is everyone comfortable with overclocking their monitors? I am comfortable with ocing my CPU, ram, and GPU, because we have pretty good data showing that for the most part, it's reasonably safe as well as effective.

However, can we say the same about overclocking monitors? I've read different opinions on this so far (just got my QNIX Evolution II yesterday, and love it), with some saying it is dangerous for the monitor and doesn't really give you the same level of performance as say, a native 120hz monitor (if you were to OC yours to 120hz), while others say it does do so.

It seems a lot of people are doing it, but do we know much about it? "Dangerous" is relative of course, even ocing your CPU is dangerous.

Also, as an aside, anyone notice the power brick for the QNIX QX2710 can get rather hot? I know other people have mentioned this ... I'm not an expert but any concerns with OCing and the demands on the power brick as well?


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> I honestly don't get the whole "the stand sux" thing.
> 
> Sure, it's not the best - and if you push on it it'll wiggle; but if you leave it alone it keeps the monitor stood roughly vertical that's good enough for me.
> 
> To each their own


I like the stand as well, except I'm worried about how easily it seems to tip backwards. The center of gravity is forward of the stand of course due to the weight of the monitor, but it still looks a little less solid in terms of the size of the back part than I'd like.

Also, just to verify, this stand is not really adjustable in any way, right? I thought I saw on an ad for the monitor that it is adjustable in terms of level of tilt, but I can't see how from looking at the stand.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Using the "search this thread" tool:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/4520#post_20444092
> 
> Hope that helps.


Ah thanks. When I tried search I just got a bunch of HTML code for the posts. I couldn't find those stands in stock anywhere (reputable). Dang. Guess I'll have to go with the monoprice stand or something similar.


----------



## Moragg

The plastic stub is screwed into an oval thing. That rotates forwards/back to give a slight option to tilt.

While the stand is definitely sub-par, as long as you leave it alone it does it's job well enough for me not to bother.


----------



## Robertdt

I guess I must be missing something.

So the base of the stand screws into the stem (that is connected to the monitor) with that screw. Once you have screwed in the base, you can tilt the monitor forwards or backwards without unscrewing the base or anything else? I haven't pushed it hard but it seems like it's stuck in just the one initial position and not meant to be adjusted in anyway.


----------



## Xentar712

It's tough but it does tilt back. I felt like mine was going to break when tilting it. Once it's set, never touch it again.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> I guess I must be missing something.
> 
> So the base of the stand screws into the stem (that is connected to the monitor) with that screw. Once you have screwed in the base, you can tilt the monitor forwards or backwards without unscrewing the base or anything else? I haven't pushed it hard but it seems like it's stuck in just the one initial position and not meant to be adjusted in anyway.


Here's a side view:


It's an X-Star but these monitors are almost exactly the same. You can see the piece the plastic stem connects to is not flush with the monitor as I tilted it.


----------



## davio

Is there a suggested ebay seller for qnix QX2710 II monitors?


----------



## Robertdt

You may want to consider an Amazon seller (such as Misemet, which is who shipped mine, although for some reason although I just bought mine Monday and received it yesterday, a new seller is selling them now on Amazon), which may or may not have better deals / reliability. My experience though was very good.


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Here's a side view:
> 
> 
> It's an X-Star but these monitors are almost exactly the same. You can see the piece the plastic stem connects to is not flush with the monitor as I tilted it.


Exactly, great pic. If you notice the 'darker black' portion on top of the clear stand, it slides back and forth in a groove independent of the monitor case itself.

If you look at the youtube thread from the FAQ you can see where you can loosen a couple screws inside the monitor to make the sliding easier.

Mine was fine if a bit stiff by default. I found it easiest to adjust while it's sitting normally and then grasp the bottom of the monitor with one hand and the top of the stand plate with the other, and push or pull them as necessary firmly. I have heard reports where the screws were just waay too tight to move at all, in which case you may have to disassemble the monitor to loosen them up a bit.

Incidentally, disassembling the monitor seems intimidating at first, but honestly all you need is a couple flathead screwdrivers, one philips head and some patience.


----------



## Robertdt

Awesome thanks. Got mine to tilt. Actually prefer the most tilted back setting for the moment.

Are all of you comfortable with overclocking your panels? I've read differing opinions on doing so. (An article saying Nvidia says it's perfectly safe, but other forum members saying things varying from it is safe, to unknown, to one who supposedly "broke the pixels" of a monitor by Ocing it).

Any thoughts? I haven't seen safety of ocing the panel discussed much in the first few pages of this thread.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> There are a ton of options at monoprice. People seem to like this one:
> www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 
> Mt friend just bought this one:
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
> 
> Links to more options:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=desk+mount+brackets
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=vesa


that clamp mount is actually pretty horrible, it has terrible balance and monitors lean to one side or the other if you dont have the arms directly outwards.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Awesome thanks. Got mine to tilt. Actually prefer the most tilted back setting for the moment.
> 
> Are all of you comfortable with overclocking your panels? I've read differing opinions on doing so. (An article saying Nvidia says it's perfectly safe, but other forum members saying things varying from it is safe, to unknown, to one who supposedly "broke the pixels" of a monitor by Ocing it).
> 
> Any thoughts? I haven't seen safety of ocing the panel discussed much in the first few pages of this thread.


Thoughts on the safety of OCing your monitor?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Thoughts on the safety of OCing your monitor?


There are people who have been doing it for over a year without any issues. I think most people in this thread have overclocked. We're overclock.net after all!


----------



## DiceAir

So can anyone suggest me some setting I could try to get 120Hz. I do get 120Hz with a small green lines on the screen. i'm using Nvidia Control panel. ATM I only have 96HZ. I haven't tried any higher yet as I feel 96hz is the sweet spot and then one step ahaid is 120Hz due to movie playback


----------



## funkymunky

Hi,

is my Gigabyte HD 5870 compatible with this monitor?
Can i use it in dual monitor mode with my 24" DELL (1920*1200)?


----------



## self_slaughter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So can anyone suggest me some setting I could try to get 120Hz. I do get 120Hz with a small green lines on the screen. i'm using Nvidia Control panel. ATM I only have 96HZ. I haven't tried any higher yet as I feel 96hz is the sweet spot and then one step ahaid is 120Hz due to movie playback


You could try using reduced blanking mode but that seems to make the monitor a little blurry (as in motion blur kinda thing, have to disable in game motion blur or it gets rediculous!).
You could also try another DVI cable although that didn't help for me.

I just settled for 110Hz. Watched a movie like that and it seemed ok to me. (I rarely watch movies anyway)
96Hz doesn't quite cut it for that smooth feeling in game like 120 does, 110 gets close, but not quite there.
Thinking about dumping this monitor and getting a 144Hz 1080P screen just to see how buttery smooth that is.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *self_slaughter*
> 
> You could try using reduced blanking mode but that seems to make the monitor a little blurry (as in motion blur kinda thing, have to disable in game motion blur or it gets rediculous!).
> You could also try another DVI cable although that didn't help for me.
> 
> I just settled for 110Hz. Watched a movie like that and it seemed ok to me. (I rarely watch movies anyway)
> 96Hz doesn't quite cut it for that smooth feeling in game like 120 does, 110 gets close, but not quite there.
> Thinking about dumping this monitor and getting a 144Hz 1080P screen just to see how buttery smooth that is.


I'm using LCD reduced


----------



## ColdFlo

I tighten my timings even tighter than lcd reduced and it makes the image slightly less latent/(respond faster) and overall image quality seems to improve I think blanking is critical on CRT but I don't think LCD is the same way tho for some reason some buffering or time lag between lines(why vertical blanking is not necesssary hence total pixels 1444) is necessary. I was using 154hz off my god crt before this but not at this high of a resolution and while it was slightly more responsive than 120hz and felt directly connected to the mouse the difference between 120hz and 154hz is minor even when it comes to extremely competitive gaming(your skill is going to determine if you lose not 34hz on your monitor at these speeds). Also 1080p at 144hz is a slower pixel clock rate than 2560x1440p120. This monitor can't be beat for overall speed by anything else except higher resolutions which are unusable by todays graphics cards(other than movies and just rendering window guis) and cost 1000 to 4000 dollars(Asus 4k). Really 2560x1440p120 is too high for truly competitive gaming thank god for scaling but also the other pitfal of the 144hz /lightboost preference that is for some reason popular on this forum(people with no taste or understanding of technology) is that TN panels are completely inferior in color preproduction white reproduction its uncomfortable on the eyes and if a cfl is back there flickering away its going to have the same flicker quality of CRT. I have the god crt and this monitor side by side right now because if i turn off crt it may not be able to turn back on and charge the tube without shorting the circuitry due to static/feedback and its odd cause if you stick a spoon in your mouth and pluck the end like a harp the LCD screen stays perfectly static and the CRT starts to warp around like we all know about. Only reason I would want to see lightboost is to test this effect on a flickering LCD. 1080P is not enough resolution for me not in movies,games, or the desktop and not enough to not see the pixels when you are working on it from computer monitor distance; size will also be smaller and if you somehow found a 1080p 27 or 30" the pixels would definitely be obvious. Its not enough for photo or film editing either. I use google chrome windows with 100 tabs open at a time. I litter my desktop with files and icons. I need a big superbar with a wide selection 1080p would make me claustrophobic.

Nvidia Custom Resolution Timings: Still only 80hz for now so if your going higher set your timings slightly looser 10 above on the big numbers maybe 4 or 5 above on the 1s
Horizontal Vertical
Active pixels 2560 1440
Front porch 1 1
Sync width 1 1
Total pixels 2640 1444
Why can I set the middle numbers to one? I think they are negated and are set based on the total pixel figure???

Oh yeah I finished Bioshock Inifinite this morning. Nice game about to get Clash in the Clouds. A little stiff and it has some lag but what an immersive game like premium console graphics a bit consolish on the whole but its so primo that none of that matters. Mechanics a bit stiff but overall the FPS gunplay is good so much so I now wan to play the DLC which is waves of combat only. Fun for experienced players if you like hitting only headshots but overall somewhat of an easy game. One of those new games that makes your eyes swim in graphics love that about it(Almost like an upgraded sequel to dishonored 2012 vs big step up 2013 grahics difference apparent). Only negative is it seems to be an extreme form of anti-american propaganda. It uses George Washington as the bad heavy and seems to take the side of communists...........OO just play the game and youll see what i mean. I'm understating things to say the least.


----------



## gl0ry

It seems that when I actually play a game in Full Screen mode, 96hz is giving me issues (on one monitor).

It starts to flicker then crashes my drivers constantly. The minute I set it to 60hz it becomes stable. Is this a case of a monitor not being able to handle it or is it a driver issue? I just tried 85hz and it seems to be stable as well..

My second monitor seems to be able to do any hz.

Edit: I guess one of my monitors can't do above 85hz without crashing or flickering when I alt tab during a full screen game.. Kind of weird, but that's fine.


----------



## wim1337

Hello ladies and gents,

I have been absorbing this thread since I ordered a Qnix Perfect Pixel from green-sum Thursday August 29th 20:27 GMT+2 
The price was 342 AU$ ~ 306 US$ ~ 231 € excluding 32 € customs and 49 € VAT which made it 313 €.
I ordered neither matte nor glossy and when the monitor was on its way to Germany I asked green-sum which I would get and he (actually they..) answered within reasonable time. Lucky me, I got a matte Qnix.

I have benefited from you guys a lot reading lots about BBL, overclocking and getting my first few *huge* wallpapers and colorprofiles.

Reading some of the parcel trackings also cheered me up sometimes when DHL would not display the status correctly. As for this reason: here is mine










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



21With delivery courier MUNICH - GERMANY 07:31

20Arrived at Delivery Facility in MUNICH - GERMANY MUNICH - GERMANY 06:06

19Departed Facility in MUNICH - GERMANY MUNICH - GERMANY 04:09

18Processed at MUNICH - GERMANY MUNICH - GERMANY 01:03

Sunday, September 01, 2013

17Arrived at Sort Facility MUNICH - GERMANY MUNICH - GERMANY 23:20

16Departed Facility in LEIPZIG - GERMANY LEIPZIG - GERMANY 22:42

15Processed at LEIPZIG - GERMANY LEIPZIG - GERMANY 21:50

14Clearance processing complete at LEIPZIG - GERMANY LEIPZIG - GERMANY 19:53

13Customs status updated LEIPZIG - GERMANY 19:53

12Processed for clearance at LEIPZIG - GERMANY LEIPZIG - GERMANY 15:03

11Departed Facility in HONG KONG - HONG KONG HONG KONG - HONG KONG02:13

10Clearance processing complete at HONG KONG - HONG KONG HONG KONG - HONG KONG01:55

9Processed at HONG KONG - HONG KONG HONG KONG - HONG KONG01:55

8Arrived at Sort Facility HONG KONG - HONG KONG HONG KONG - HONG KONG00:53

Saturday, August 31, 2013
7Customs status updated HONG KONG - HONG KONG 21:26

6Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)20:33

5Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)16:49

4Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)16:38

3Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)15:31

2Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)15:21

1Shipment picked up SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 11:00



Shipping was really fast 

The Monitor itself is - as ordered - perfect pixel. There is some bleeding but nothing serious, I will work on that the next few days.

I am still waiting for my pr3m!uM-DvI-Du4l-Link-g0ld3n-cable *cough* *cough* but with the stock cable running 120 Hz is no problem - I will update you guys in time how much my QNIX is willing to take.

Thank you for this thread 

PS: My digital camera is not made for non-automatic-mode ^_°



*edit: Got the other cable, reached 135 Hz for the moment... but I have a feeling this could go even further...


----------



## gl0ry

They both overclock to 120hz (SLI) without any issues on desktop or windowed full screen mode for games, but I noticed the minute I activate full screen mode one monitor starts flickering and crashes my drivers. Cranking it down fixes the flickering but weird driver behaviors keep occuring until I down clock to 85hz.

I guess one of my monitors doesn't overclock as well as the other? That's the only explanation I have at the moment. I have them both set to 85hz for now, which is a decent balance between image quality and gaming. Would have preferred to keep them at 96hz but it doesn't really bother me that much.


----------



## jezzer

Anyone has a clue what the difference between the listed ebay models are?

When i check the store of sellers, they have listed the same monitor more then once but with a different price. As example green sum has the the same monitor listed for 329 and 349, both pixel perfect..

Why is one more expensive? Better pixel perfect or something?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Anyone has a clue what the difference between the listed ebay models are?
> 
> When i check the store of sellers, they have listed the same monitor more then once but with a different price. As example green sum has the the same monitor listed for 329 and 349, both pixel perfect..
> 
> Why is one more expensive? Better pixel perfect or something?


Nope, just to confuse customers into buying the product.


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> They both overclock to 120hz (SLI) without any issues on desktop or windowed full screen mode for games, but I noticed the minute I activate full screen mode one monitor starts flickering and crashes my drivers. Cranking it down fixes the flickering but weird driver behaviors keep occuring until I down clock to 85hz.
> 
> I guess one of my monitors doesn't overclock as well as the other? That's the only explanation I have at the moment. I have them both set to 85hz for now, which is a decent balance between image quality and gaming. Would have preferred to keep them at 96hz but it doesn't really bother me that much.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome set-up mate!


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> There are people who have been doing it for over a year without any issues. I think most people in this thread have overclocked. We're overclock.net after all!


I agree, and I'm very tempted to try and see what 90+ hz (hopefully) looks like.

I'm just wondering though, I keep reading on the web that overclocking a monitor is dangerous (mostly forum postings), and then I also read that it is safe (according to Nvidia too with their OC software option for the Titans).

What I'm wondering is, does anyone here know why, specifically, it is (or is not) safe to overclock your monitor? Why it won't cause damage or is highly unlikely to?


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> I agree, and I'm very tempted to try and see what 90+ hz (hopefully) looks like.
> 
> I'm just wondering though, I keep reading on the web that overclocking a monitor is dangerous (mostly forum postings), and then I also read that it is safe (according to Nvidia too with their OC software option for the Titans).
> 
> What I'm wondering is, does anyone here know why, specifically, it is (or is not) safe to overclock your monitor? Why it won't cause damage or is highly unlikely to?


It is safe. If you see something weird, just revert to stock. It may bring extra heat to the pcb but monitors don't put out enough to melt it even at 120hz..


----------



## Robertdt

Ok, I appreciate that and I'm not intending to be rude, but can you tell me specifically WHY it is safe? Like, "the LCD crystals are not affected because..." or something like that. I just keep hearing "It is safe" or "It is dangerous" but never an explanation specifically for why it is one or the other.


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Ok, I appreciate that and I'm not intending to be rude, but can you tell me specifically WHY it is safe? Like, "the LCD crystals are not affected because..." or something like that. I just keep hearing "It is safe" or "It is dangerous" but never an explanation specifically for why it is one or the other.


No I cannot. Please enlight us if you find a scientific explanation. I can only think of heat to be honest.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> I agree, and I'm very tempted to try and see what 90+ hz (hopefully)


well, basically your colors/gamma is gonna get a little more dim but your screen movement will feel smoother. The biggest change will be your mouse cursor, so any games that have screen movement benefit from that. I have a 120hz Benq monitor and even when these monitors are overclocked they feel different from the Benq TN panel. Ips/PLS feels a slower in comparison but its not big deal to me. The colors simple poop all over TN panels


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Ok, I appreciate that and I'm not intending to be rude, but can you tell me specifically WHY it is safe? Like, "the LCD crystals are not affected because..." or something like that. I just keep hearing "It is safe" or "It is dangerous" but never an explanation specifically for why it is one or the other.


no one can guarantee you safety with any overclocking. You can try it and if you thi k the benefits aren't worth the u inherit risk, you can throw it back to default settings.

there have been people who have had overclocked settings forover a year without any issues and that's all we really know


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> no one can guarantee you safety with any overclocking. You can try it and if you thi k the benefits aren't worth the u inherit risk, you can throw it back to default settings.
> 
> there have been people who have had overclocked settings forover a year without any issues and that's all we really know


That is a good sign, but I still think that we have an idea of why ocing a CPU is relatively safe especially if voltage and temps are in check, and the same applies to GPU and ram.

But it just seems like no one really understands (from what I've read so far) why OCing a monitor is safe, or not, nor have I read any real explanation of what is happening when you OC a monitor and why or why not it is not going to affect it in some way.

I'm all for doing cutting edge experimentation and basing it on the best anecdotal evidence, but I also wouldn't mind seeing some information regarding exactly what is happening, why it is safe (according to Nvidia for example) or why it is not (according to other forum posts I've read).

I may try to call Nvidia if I have time to see if they can tell me anything.

I guess I'm being kind of protective because I really like my monitor, but I also find it a bit frustrating that no one actually knows technically what is going on here.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Ok, I appreciate that and I'm not intending to be rude, but can you tell me specifically WHY it is safe? Like, "the LCD crystals are not affected because..." or something like that. I just keep hearing "It is safe" or "It is dangerous" but never an explanation specifically for why it is one or the other.


First off let me tell you that there are no reported long term issues behind doing this....yet. The general assumption for monitor overclocking is that it reduces life span but that is completely speculation. Now this would be your "safe" answer. The scientific one is. the LCD crystals are not affected because....they can do it already, many of these (and many other panels) show in there specifications they are compatible to 120hz but are locked to 85hz or lower. The reason why is because there is a lot of other equipment involved other than the panel as well namely the PCB and the controller board specifically. MANY panels could do more than 60hz and some can go as high as 144hz even but the PCB and controller make it impossible. Also the interface is lacking. DVI craps out just about completely at 500mhz data rate and many controller boards for input(especially multiport model) crap out even sooner. The PCB is another animal in itself. We have seen plenty of examples where someone gets the overlord PCB and BAM there panel does plenty over 60hz. There is something to understand here, this means the who monitor equation could do more than 60hz EXCEPT for the PCB.

So overall i guess a better question would be why are other panels not able to go higher than 60hz? And usually the answer won't be the panel but the other factors involved. I have an overlord PCB and to date have not had a panel IPS,PLS, or LCD that wasn't able to do over 60hz and usually over 75hz. So my advice here is look at the spec sheet for the panel specifically NOT the "monitor".

Hopefully this helps you and others wondering about this









PS: Got my 17" 1080p laptop panel that i cannibalized to 136hz as well using known overclockable equipment to connect it(overlord plus LVDS single port jobs from ebay manufacturer direct)


----------



## Robertdt

Nice, that is the kind of explanation I was looking for, thanks









I guess I'll be trying it


----------



## Robertdt

Hmm, well I tried overclocking it to 96hz and 110hz.

Here is what I noticed:

- A slight to moderate decrease in image quality, a darkening of the image and a loss of detail, and possibly some subtle glitchy behavior I couldn't quite describe

- A definite increase in smoothness, most appreciated in games (over movies) and was nice on the desktop as well. However, in movies especially it did look like things were "sped up" in a way that didn't necessarily look quite natural or correct.

Overall I liked the smoothness but not the perceived decrease in image quality or the sort of unnatural quality the image would take on at times.

For now I decided to go with 60hz. I'm actually a little surprised that some people would go to a lower image quality panel and resolution like 1080p just to get 120hz. I think the difference with 1440p and a better panel is huge compared to the difference with a faster pixel rate.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hmm, well I tried overclocking it to 96hz and 110hz.
> 
> Here is what I noticed:
> 
> - A slight to moderate decrease in image quality, a darkening of the image and a loss of detail, and possibly some subtle glitchy behavior I couldn't quite describe
> 
> - A definite increase in smoothness, most appreciated in games (over movies) and was nice on the desktop as well. However, in movies especially it did look like things were "sped up" in a way that didn't necessarily look quite natural or correct.
> 
> Overall I liked the smoothness but not the perceived decrease in image quality or the sort of unnatural quality the image would take on at times.
> 
> For now I decided to go with 60hz. I'm actually a little surprised that some people would go to a lower image quality panel and resolution like 1080p just to get 120hz. I think the difference with 1440p and a better panel is huge compared to the difference with a faster pixel rate.


You won't see a single change in movies unless you install something called smooth video project and when you do, let me tell you, it's a huge difference.


----------



## paulkon

I realize that the semi-gloss finish does indeed suppress reflections and yet maintain an excellent level of clarity however, do any of you guys notice the slight loss of sharpness when looking at 12-13pt fonts on a contrasty background? Like a code editor? Is the difference in clarity important if I'll use the panels for reading and movie watching?


----------



## Tray

Im seeing green/blue lines flash horizontally on screen when playing bf3 at 120Hz, any solutions?


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> You won't see a single change in movies unless you install something called smooth video project and when you do, let me tell you, it's a huge difference.


I'd like to try it but I guess my problem with the OCing from what I've seen so far is that there is a notable degradation in image quality. I'm just not sure the smoothness is worth the lower image quality and kind of "funky" look and behavior of the monitor at times. It just feels unnatural in a way that detracts from the experience to me more than the increased smoothness adds to it. I'm all for 120hz+ though but not necessarily at the loss of image quality / odd monitor behavior.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> I realize that the semi-gloss finish does indeed suppress reflections and yet maintain an excellent level of clarity however, do any of you guys notice the slight loss of sharpness when looking at 12-13pt fonts on a contrasty background? Like a code editor? Is the difference in clarity important if I'll use the panels for reading and movie watching?


Is the Qnix QX2710 Matt finish also the semi-gloss finish? Or are you talking about the full glossy version of the panel?


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Is the Qnix QX2710 Matt finish also the semi-gloss finish? Or are you talking about the full glossy version of the panel?


The "matte" version of the Qnix is semi-gloss. It's the best matte finish out of all the Korean panels however, in the end it's still a coating on the panel itself which could alter clarity.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> I'd like to try it but I guess my problem with the OCing from what I've seen so far is that there is a notable degradation in image quality. I'm just not sure the smoothness is worth the lower image quality and kind of "funky" look and behavior of the monitor at times. It just feels unnatural in a way that detracts from the experience to me more than the increased smoothness adds to it. I'm all for 120hz+ though but not necessarily at the loss of image quality / odd monitor behavior.


Then try a lower overclock. I don't think 85hz affects the image at all if any. The extra 25hz still makes a pretty big difference.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> You won't see a single change in movies unless you install something called smooth video project and when you do, let me tell you, it's a huge difference.


You can also use madvr's smooth motion filter. It will keep the video framerate static but create 4 duplicate frames in between each real frame. This keeps the "cinema" look but still increases fluidity without causing the "soap opera" effect. The fact is that you are playing video that was filmed in 24fps and upconverting it to 120fps with smooth video project(SVP) it can look awkward or goofy. Using a frame duplicator can increase smoothness but keep the look and feel the movie was supposed to have. I have done a lot of testing with this and my rule of thumb is keep life action the same framerate with duplication(madvr) and ANY animation or CGI can be upconverted with SVP with not real negative awkward effects.

It may be my opinion but if you use SVP on live film it makes it look cartoony which is why i favor smooth motion. But if you use it on already animated video it doesn't bother too much.

Just some thoughts
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Then try a lower overclock. I don't think 85hz affects the image at all if any. The extra 25hz still makes a pretty big difference.


Yeah even running at 72hz over 60hz looks a lot better


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hmm, well I tried overclocking it to 96hz and 110hz.
> - A definite increase in smoothness, most appreciated in games (over movies) and was nice on the desktop as well. However, in movies especially it did look like things were "sped up" in a way that didn't necessarily look quite natural or correct.
> 
> For now I decided to go with 60hz. I'm actually a little surprised that some people would go to a lower image quality panel and resolution like 1080p just to get 120hz. I think the difference with 1440p and a better panel is huge compared to the difference with a faster pixel rate.


On the movie issue - most movies are 24Hz/25Hz, so watching on a 60Hz causes tearing. Over many years our brains learn to completely filter out and ignore this tearing.

Now moe to 120Hz, which is an integer multiple of 24Hz and very nearly of 25Hz. This throws our brain out of sync as we don't expect it to be smooth. Given time though we will learn to appreciate it. Higher fps movies do look better but require a bit of getting used to.

As a side note: all 25Hz movies were originally shot at 24Hz, so you should use ReClock to fix that.


----------



## TangoDown332

Can I be added? Left is my Yamakasi Right is my X-Star both listed in my sig.

http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c7/900x900px-LL-c7cbae1a_1048645_10151495659556629_633727346_o.jpeg


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> On the movie issue - most movies are 24Hz/25Hz, so watching on a 60Hz causes tearing. Over many years our brains learn to completely filter out and ignore this tearing.


No, they use 3:2 pulldown which means the first frame gets displayed 3 times, the second frame two times, and so on until 24 frames are displayed 60 times. This is why you don't get tearing with 24FPS movies at 60Hz.
Quote:


> Now moe to 120Hz, which is an integer multiple of 24Hz and very nearly of 25Hz. This throws our brain out of sync as we don't expect it to be smooth. Given time though we will learn to appreciate it. Higher fps movies do look better but require a bit of getting used to.


Unless the movies are shot at 120Hz, any smoothing by means of interpolation and *not* duplication (which happens already) is inaccurate and does not look very realistic.
Quote:


> As a side note: all 25Hz movies were originally shot at 24Hz, so you should use ReClock to fix that.


Fantastic program, also fixes audio sampling rate to match the FPS change. Has exclusive audio modes (e.g. WASAPI).

Note: 25Hz (FPS) movies shot at 24Hz can lose around 5 minutes for a 2 hour movie, compared to 24FPS. That is a lot...ReClock FTW.

Note *to those who are asking about whether overclocking a monitor is safe or not*: Aside from the empirical evidence that it doesn't seem to cause any issues over time (years) other than the extra heat emitted by the controller chip, these single-input Korean monitors (all?) come with the EP269 controller, which is *natively* capable of a 450MHz pixel clock. How I see it, any pixel clock below 450MHz is considered an underclock







meaning 60Hz is way below what the monitor can achieve at its native capabilities, which is ~106-110Hz generally for 450MHz (according to *ToastyX*).

This also makes sense why you should work at keeping the *pixel clock at or below 450MHz*. Spartan F8 has reported that doing so greatly reduces / eliminates the side effects of overclocking such as gamma shift (darkness), brightness uniformity issues (between the left and right parts of the screen), etc...

Getting my monitor soon, will report gamma and brightness uniformity with different pixel clocks using a Spyder4 colorimeter.


----------



## ColdFlo

You know. I was thinking we need to do some EDID editing or spoofing or something to get these monitors recognized by the os that way we wont need another monitor to work on it when switching drivers or installing a new os. I'm starting to look into it, but this is also another important area. This getting a guide showing rolling of the tray to fix BLB. Cooling guide. Possible overvolting/volt mods(shouldnt need very much here). We also are going to need deeper understandings of Nvidia and ATI drivers. I am very experienced with Nvidia drivers and have figured out quite a bit about them. Like the fact this is the most important Nvidia Key in the whole registry.

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video\{B202520C-37BC-47EC-91D3-AB0FF93DCA86}\0000

The GUID string is of course always variable just look for the one that has the 0000 0001 0002 0003 keys(the folder icons in the registry are called keys in the file tree) and go to the 0000 folder. To change the video modes the games can see edit the NV_Modes string trying to follow the examples of the other entries you can also edit this string when installing drivers by extracting the driver install package with winrar extract here in a new folder(label it so you can tell your different custom driver installs apart also when installing custom drivers which most of you already know you must DISABLE DRIVER SIGNING ENFORCEMENT VIA TESTMODE NFORCERS HQ APP or shutdown /r /o via cmdline or powershell then navigate to the advanced mode restart in the bcd blue menus http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/4924-advanced-startup-settings-boot-windows-8-a.html). Then go to the Display Driver section nvdisp.inf and find the nv_modes string and edit the values there. You'lll notice the nvidia drivers are broken up into different sections section 01 etc etc at the very end of the nvdisp.inf you will see different driver designations which are Nvidias internal designations for the various cards.

Example from 326.80 x64 Drivers(always install main branch not opengl sidebranch)
NVIDIA_DEV.10D8 = "NVIDIA NVS 300"
NVIDIA_DEV.1180 = "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680"
NVIDIA_DEV.1183 = "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Ti"
NVIDIA_DEV.1184 = "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770"
Just search your graphics card name. This gives us the designation for a 680 of NVIDIA_DEV.1180 and 770 of NVIDIA_DEV.1184 which are the same chip and the 770 on refrence design is supposed to have higher specd samsung ram instead of hynix which is probably more expensive. Now search these strings from the top of the file. Lets assume we are installing to Windows 8.1 on a GTX 770.

We get:
%NVIDIA_DEV.10D8% = Section020, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_10D8
%NVIDIA_DEV.1180% = Section091, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1180
%NVIDIA_DEV.1183% = Section091, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1183
%NVIDIA_DEV.1184% = Section091, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1184
This tells us which sections the installer is going to jump to install the correct driver files(.dll files which are basically modular loadable exe files loaded by the kernel or other exes).

But make sure you get the correct section for your corresponding OS.
Which is determined with this string section
[Manufacturer]
%NVIDIA_A% = NVIDIA_SetA_Devices,NTamd64.6.0,NTamd64.6.1,NTamd64.6.2,NTamd64.6.3

Necessitating you choose the correct long list of
%NVIDIA_DEV.10D8% = Section020, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_10D8
%NVIDIA_DEV.1180% = Section091, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1180
%NVIDIA_DEV.1183% = Section091, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1183
%NVIDIA_DEV.1184% = Section091, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1184

From the proper sections headered
[NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.0] = NT 6.0 = Vista or Server 2008
[NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.1]= NT 6.1 = Windows 7 or Server 2008 R2
[NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.2]= NT 6.2 = Windows 8 or Server 2012
[NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.3]= NT 6.3 = Windows 8.1
This is why if you got the latest Windows 8.1 RTM Build 6.3.9600.16384 Leak you'll notice the same microsoft internal build number.(I also read recently that a .1+ means a kernel revision meaning faster processing similar to a minor CPU upgrade)

This causes the installer to daisy chain through the various sections installing the proper drivers for your graphics cards. This is why newer cards experience performance boosts on their release more than older cards because those are the dlls actively being developed in order to feed more data umpf to get them to drive at thier full potential while older cards will see limited performance increases because your older card is still running on the same old driver they designed for it(with possible recompile but I doubt this is done all the time new recompile with optimized/more developed compiler over time means faster code). One time back when I had my old 8800gtx sli I installed gtx 680 only drivers after I modded the nvdisp.inf designation sections as I have illustrated above to be able to install on all cards and once I installed these 680 only drivers on my 8880gtx sli I noticed immediately that the graphics looked more bullish and seemed to have more polygons even on older games(it was rendering better/differently it was immediately noticeable). Really a GPU is just a processor. I find it hard to believe that Directx 11 cant be run on older cards it seems to me to be a matter of codebase and driver control carried out by Microsoft and Nvidia to force us to buy newer cards(maybe a limited amount of it is hardware support but I doubt all of it).

Ok following the daisy chain of driver installer subsections from our example assuming we are using a GTX 770 we see %NVIDIA_DEV.1184% = Section091, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1184. Meaning we should proceed down the nvdisp.inf subsections to Section091.
[Section091]
AddReg = nv_DRS_addreg
AddReg = nv_FTS_addreg
AddReg = nv_commonBase_addreg__01
AddReg = nv_commonDisplayModes_addreg__02
AddReg = nv_controlPanel_addreg
AddReg = nv_global_addreg
AddReg = nv_miscBase_addreg__15
AddReg = nv_opengl_addreg
AddReg = nv_timingRestrictions_addreg
CopyFiles = nv_Drs_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_cplSetup_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_detoured32_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_detoured_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_license_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_nvsmi_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_opencl_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_sysDrivers_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_system32_copyfiles__06
CopyFiles = nv_syswow64_copyfiles__06
DelFiles = nv_nvsmi_delfiles
DelFiles = nv_sysDrivers_delfiles
DelFiles = nv_system32_delfiles
DelFiles = nv_system64_delfiles
DelReg = nv_clearRegistrySwitches_delreg
FeatureScore = DA
NVAllowIR3DDriverPreStage = 1
NVSupport3DVision = 1
NVSupportDisplayUpdate = 1
NVSupportGFExperienceExtendedOptions = 1
NVSupportPhysx = 1
RegisterDLLs = nv_common_registerdll__02

[Section091.CoInstallers]
AddReg = nv_commonCoinstaller_addreg
CopyFiles = nv_coinstaller_copyfiles

[Section091.GeneralConfigData]
MaximumDeviceMemoryConfiguration = 128
MaximumNumberOfDevices = 4

[Section091.Services]
AddService = nvlddmkm, 0x00000002, nv_nvlddmkm_serviceInstall

As you will notice there is the line AddReg = nv_commonBase_addreg__01 and nv_commonDisplayModes_addreg__02 in [Section091].
If you are modifying drivers for others to use or just as good practice for your own use you want to add tweaks to the [nv_commonBase_addreg__0n(1,2,3,etc)] Sections all of them(you could probably also use [nv_commonCoinstaller_addreg] in [Section091.CoInstallers]) so that they will be added no matter which GPU or Operating system the drivers are being installed on and of course [nv_commonDisplayModes_addreg__0n(1,2,3,etc)] will be where the NV_Modes strings are to be able to edit your display resolutions and color bit depth. So this is a little crash course in the layout of the newer Nvidia Drivers over the last few years so you can understand and navigate their fairly straightforward layout to get you started on your own modding and tweaking. Cheers.

P.S. I am impressed by Windows 8.1 RTM 9600 its so much more smooth and lag and glitch free makes gaming and just general os usage far more relaxing; at the same time I have a substantial reg file of tweaks and make extensive use of process lasso.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No, they use 3:2 pulldown which means the first frame gets displayed 3 times, the second frame two times, and so on until 24 frames are displayed 60 times. This is why you don't get tearing with 24FPS movies at 60Hz.


My bad, forgot it was called 3:2 pulldown







This is still unnatural though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Unless the movies are shot at 120Hz, any smoothing by means of interpolation and *not* duplication (which happens already) is inaccurate and does not look very realistic.


I'd still argue that removing the need for 3:2 pulldown would make it smoother.

Motion interpolation would work for, say, 3D animated content. I use SVP on stuff like this and it looks nice. Generally, I would recommend using SVP to make panning shots smoother (certain settings allow that) - I've tried some anime with the characters' moions interpolated and in certain situations it does look very weird - almost overly smooth, as my brain is so used to watching 24Hz content. Or it could just be the interpolation is not complex enough to produce realistic resuls.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I'd still argue that removing the need for 3:2 pulldown would make it smoother.


Definitely, actually that's what I meant by duplication. No more jerkiness!
Quote:


> Motion interpolation would work for, say, 3D animated content. I use SVP on stuff like this and it looks nice. Generally, I would recommend using SVP to make panning shots smoother (certain settings allow that) - I've tried some anime with the characters' moions interpolated and in certain situations it does look very weird - almost overly smooth, as my brain is so used to watching 24Hz content. Or it could just be the interpolation is not complex enough to produce realistic resuls.


Need to try SVP, but I never was convinced with motion interpolation to give this a go.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> You know. I was thinking we need to do some EDID editing or spoofing or something to get these monitors recognized by the os that way we wont need another monitor to work on it when switching drivers or installing a new os.


Just curious, only because I'm venturing towards staying single monitor for the time being. Are there certain situations where the OS won't recognize my monitor? Maybe I'm remembering incorrectly but I thought I just plugged it in and it worked fine right out of the box. I didn't have another monitor in at the time and I don't think I patched the drivers until after I plugged it in. I could be wrong and maybe I did patch them before switching monitors, but I doubt it. I may hold off selling my second monitor, if that's the case.


----------



## bond32

Just got my X-Star in. I ordered the glossy but they didn't have any in stock. Also expected it way sooner but I can't complain too much. Pretty happy with it, although it does have a cheap feeling to it. Sure does look good though.

Is it really necessary to overclock a monitor? Noob question


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Just got my X-Star in. I ordered the glossy but they didn't have any in stock. Also expected it way sooner but I can't complain too much. Pretty happy with it, although it does have a cheap feeling to it. Sure does look good though.
> 
> Is it really necessary to overclock a monitor? Noob question


Of course it is necessary, overclock your SSD too while your at it and your dog.


----------



## dmikester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ribozyme*
> 
> Of course it is necessary, overclock your SSD too while your at it and your dog.


Heh, the reason users are overclocking these monitors is to get them over 60hz to something close to 120hz without having to pay for a 120hz monitor. I can't say from experience, but from what I hear 120hz is well worth it, especially for gaming. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Someday I'll update my old 22" Samsung non-led LCD.


----------



## GoneTurbo

Just picked up my Qnix from UPS. Can't wait to open this baby up when i get home from work


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ribozyme*
> 
> Of course it is necessary, overclock your SSD too while your at it and your dog.
> 
> 
> 
> Heh, the reason users are overclocking these monitors is to get them over 60hz to something close to 120hz without having to pay for a 120hz monitor. I can't say from experience, but from what I hear 120hz is well worth it, especially for gaming. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Someday I'll update my old 22" Samsung non-led LCD.
Click to expand...

Um... you actually can't buy a 120Hz 1440p PLS/IPS monitor. Either buy these monitors or buy another and stick an Overlord PCB in - those are your only options for those specs.


----------



## tomKPZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ribozyme*
> 
> overclock your SSD too while your at


Wait, I can overclock my SSD?


----------



## hutt132

Monitor: Click Here
24AWG DVI-D Cable: Click Here

So far this monitor is looking pretty nice. I got it OCed to 120Hz right now with no problems. I tried 130Hz, but it started to artifact.

Problem so far are 2 dead pixels and some black light bleeding (massage method didn't help), mainly in the bottom right. The bezel bulges out a bit on the bottom center and the panel sits 1/16" too low.

I have the brightness all the way up but it still seems kind of dark for my liking. The monitor darkens even more when OCing, especially at 120Hz. I used these ICC profiles for both 96Hz and 120Hz and they fix the darkening problem when OCing pretty well.

Now it's picture time.









My Setup:


Dead Pixel + Backlight Bleed


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> Heh, the reason users are overclocking these monitors is to get them over 60hz to something close to 120hz without having to pay for a 120hz monitor. I can't say from experience, but from what I hear 120hz is well worth it, especially for gaming. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Someday I'll update my old 22" Samsung non-led LCD.


This is an old arguement and has been repeatedly been proved wrong. Moragg is completely correct about the spec combination and this is the main reason we overclock these monitors. There is also the lack of a scaler that adds addition response time improvement. On top of that this is not "close" to 120hz it IS 120hz and we have plenty of data to back this claim up. The only feature in terms of response that this monitor lacks is lightboost. If you use a 120hz monitor without lightboost it will be visually identical to this monitor in terms of refresh. Other than that if you are going only for a quick response panel that makes old TN panels look like crap in terms of color reproduction everything else is a feature(other than the obvious easily avoided issues like stand, warranty, and multiports).

Push comes to shove i would never buy a retail 120hz panel. I would buy a panel from the manufacturer directly and build a DIY 120hz job exactly the way i want it for a lot cheaper. And in this instance it is not "you get what you pay for" it is more like "some assembly required" which many of us on a website called overclock.net don't mind doing.

Try reading a bit more and learning what you are in a discussion about and your comments will be a lot more to the point and have less mis-information in them


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> Wait, I can overclock my SSD?


Intel next SSDs will have this option yes.


----------



## paulkon

So, no one has an issue with the clarity different on semi-gloss? Just wanted to gather some opinions so that I can make an informed decision on which to buy


----------



## Dollarhax

Just got mine, thought the backlight bleed wasn't too bad but upon further inspection the bottom left and top right are a little bad. I think I might open it up tomorrow. Slightly worried though, since I don't really notice it unless I"m trying to and I'm not sure it's worth the risk of opening it up for the tape fixes buttttt we'll see. Thoughts?


----------



## PropaneTankHank

Has anyone had their monitor go black/turn off for multiple seconds and then turn back on?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

No that behavior not ringing a bell. Lots of factors in this equation though; not the display itself per se.


----------



## Xentar712

Stupid question but did you happen to change refresh rate and forget to hit keep settings?


----------



## PropaneTankHank

Nope, it hasn't been configured at all since having taken it out of the box. This happened with my previous monitor, so I'm inclined to think it has to do with my graphics card or PSU; however while that happened with my previous monitor almost every day, this waited about 3 weeks of constant use to occur. The thing that worries me is that the power light on the monitor actually turns off when this occurs, and the screen flashes red as it returns. Should I try to ship it out asap before the 30 days is up or is there anything you guys could suggest?


----------



## gl0ry

Does anyone here know why one of my monitors won't work properly when going into full screen games past 85hz? The other monitor seems to work just fine, but the minute I go into 90~120hz on the other monitor it starts flashing and crashes my drivers.

I can't tell what the problem is here. Is it the monitor or my gtx 780?


----------



## yesitsmario

Hey guys, in the FAQ it says that glossy is superior for image clarity, can somebody elaborate on that?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PropaneTankHank*
> 
> Nope, it hasn't been configured at all since having taken it out of the box. This happened with my previous monitor, so I'm inclined to think it has to do with my graphics card or PSU; however while that happened with my previous monitor almost every day, this waited about 3 weeks of constant use to occur. The thing that worries me is that the power light on the monitor actually turns off when this occurs, and the screen flashes red as it returns. Should I try to ship it out asap before the 30 days is up or is there anything you guys could suggest?


The power light going off could just mean it's flashing into standby mode. Are you using the same DVI cable? Even if you're using the stock cable, might want to try another one. The one I was given was awful and didn't even fit into the DVI slots correctly. Tough call since you can't reproduce the problem at will.


----------



## bond32

I'm attempting to overclock my x-star, seems to game alright at 96 hz but when I try to play a video, its just a green screen. Did I miss a setting somewhere?

Edit: Think I found it in the media player classic settings to disable DVXA.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yesitsmario*
> 
> Hey guys, in the FAQ it says that glossy is superior for image clarity, can somebody elaborate on that?


Matte monitors have a coating on the glass that dampens some of the colors and sharpness. Depending on the coating, it's usually not much and nobody really noticed until glossy monitors started getting popular. Once you see a glossy monitor, you'll be envious of how sharp and rich the colors are. Unfortunately glossy monitors are prone to glare, so if you are in an office building, in a heavily lit room, or have an open window to your back or side, you will probably be irritated with the glare. I chose glossy because of how much I liked the Monoprice 27" but unfortunately this monitor is far more glare prone than the Monoprice one. I think it has to do with the brighter backlight and some anti-reflective coating under the glass of the Monoprice monitor. I have never seen the matte Qnix so I cannot comment on it other than I heard it is a very light matte coat. I'm kind of wishing I went that direction but I don't really care since I primarily play games at night.


----------



## Geglamash

Received my glossy Qnix. Haven't really inspected it in-detail yet for back light bleed, but after calibration, the colors look as great as my original CrossOver IPS display.
Easily OC'ed to 120hz--loving the smoothness.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Does anyone here know why one of my monitors won't work properly when going into full screen games past 85hz? The other monitor seems to work just fine, but the minute I go into 90~120hz on the other monitor it starts flashing and crashes my drivers.
> 
> I can't tell what the problem is here. Is it the monitor or my gtx 780?


Have you patched your drivers? I think 90hz is around the 300mhz pixel clock range. Search for Toasty X pixel patch.


----------



## GoneTurbo

Oh yes! Easily OC'd to 120hz on first try. No dead/stuck pixels from what I can see. Guess I got lucky









Now i need to test some games on it...


----------



## Jaeflash

My X-Star from Dream Seller arrived unexpectedly today! Tracking estimated Thursday, but I got the call to pick it up this morning. By the time I got home with it, I had about half an hour to play with it before work. It looks fantastic though, I couldn't find a dead or stuck pixel in a quick examination, and the BLB isn't any worse than my Acer 20" has. I only got a quick round of World of Tanks in, and a run of Valley, but holy crap did it blow me away. Pics soon so I can join the club officially.


----------



## sLaYDeMOn

i dont know whether to go with the qnix glossy or tempered glass. anyone have a pic side by side or any suggestions??? i'm so confused. i've been flip flopping between the 2 for the past week. I have a glossy crossover IPS right now and I love it, but i really wonder how awesome the tempered glass would look....


----------



## MenacingTuba

Glass=gray blacks and is far more reflective vs. glossy

glass left vs. glossy


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaeflash*
> 
> My X-Star from Dream Seller arrived unexpectedly today! Tracking estimated Thursday, but I got the call to pick it up this morning. By the time I got home with it, I had about half an hour to play with it before work. It looks fantastic though, I couldn't find a dead or stuck pixel in a quick examination, and the BLB isn't any worse than my Acer 20" has. I only got a quick round of World of Tanks in, and a run of Valley, but holy crap did it blow me away. Pics soon so I can join the club officially.


Same here. I ordered from them. Wasn't too happy considering I ordered the glossy and they didn't have any available, but I'll live.


----------



## sLaYDeMOn

damn the tempered glass looks nice but the reflection does not... this only confused me even more








the right thing to do is go with the glossy... the aesthetically pleasing thing to do is go with the tempered.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TangoDown332*
> 
> Can I be added? Left is my Yamakasi Right is my X-Star both listed in my sig.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c7/900x900px-LL-c7cbae1a_1048645_10151495659556629_633727346_o.jpeg


There is a member submission form in the OP


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Have you patched your drivers? I think 90hz is around the 300mhz pixel clock range. Search for Toasty X pixel patch.


Yes, I had to patch them to even overclock it in the first place AFAIK.

Everything works perfectly fine including that validation/test link. Games even run fine in windowed mode, but the minute I throw up exclusive full screen it starts flickering and crashes the driver unless I back it down to 85hz.


----------



## tomKPZ

So I got my monitor today. Looks great, OCs to 120Hz with little issue. However, after running on 120 for a while, I noticed some burn, so I ran a burn fixer (video that flashes red, green, blue), and now I see some dead/suck pixels. I didn't even know that was possible. Does anyone know what I can do???


----------



## jerrolds

Thinking of ordering a Glossy QNIX or XStar from AccessoriesWide - anyone have their shipment marked as a gift or sample? If so - have you had any problems getting through Customs? I'm in Canada so any experience from there would be welcome.

Thanks!


----------



## yesitsmario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Matte monitors have a coating on the glass that dampens some of the colors and sharpness. Depending on the coating, it's usually not much and nobody really noticed until glossy monitors started getting popular. Once you see a glossy monitor, you'll be envious of how sharp and rich the colors are. Unfortunately glossy monitors are prone to glare, so if you are in an office building, in a heavily lit room, or have an open window to your back or side, you will probably be irritated with the glare. I chose glossy because of how much I liked the Monoprice 27" but unfortunately this monitor is far more glare prone than the Monoprice one. I think it has to do with the brighter backlight and some anti-reflective coating under the glass of the Monoprice monitor. I have never seen the matte Qnix so I cannot comment on it other than I heard it is a very light matte coat. I'm kind of wishing I went that direction but I don't really care since I primarily play games at night.


Thanks for the reply!


----------



## gl0ry

The Matte on this is definitely not very heavy. At certain angles you can see light reflecting off of it, but never in front of you. It's a great balance.


----------



## Burnt

Monitor finally came today, had to go to the FedEx distro to pick it up because they came while I was a work. Totally worth it. Was going to say that the panel had two dead pixels in the bottom right area but I can't seem to find them anymore. Black magic maybe?









Anyways there is BLB along the bottom. I put a strip of electrical tape along the bottom of the panel when I was pulling it apart to take the stand off. It seemed to help lessen the original spot a little but another area popped up along the bottom a few inches away. I am not sure that I actually did the tape right. Was kinda winging it because I hadn't actually seen someone else going through the actual process of putting on the tape. I had read about people doing it this way and that way and decided to just put a strip all the way across the bottom since that was the only side of the panel with bleed. Any feedback would be appreciated.

And has anyone else noticed that the vesa mount holes seem rather shallow? The screws that came with my arm work find on my 24" ASUS monitor but they don't go in all the way on this X-Star.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burnt*
> 
> And has anyone else noticed that the vesa mount holes seem rather shallow? The screws that came with my arm work find on my 24" ASUS monitor but they don't go in all the way on this X-Star.


They're very shallow. Go to your local hardware store and get some free spinning nuts for metric 4 screws. They provided the perfect amount of thickness to get a good fit.


----------



## Burnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> They're very shallow. Go to your local hardware store and get some free spinning nuts for metric 4 screws. They provided the perfect amount of thickness to get a good fit.


Thanks, I have it currently jury-rigged with some washers only on the top two screws and a folded piece of paper along the bottom of the mount. The people on these forums are always the most helpful!

BTW your rig is sexy gl0ry. Love the white/black theme. Was thinking about doing that when I do a custom loop in the next few months. Need to find some of those white single braided cords for my AX750 too.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burnt*
> 
> Thanks, I have it currently jury-rigged with some washers only on the top two screws and a folded piece of paper along the bottom of the mount. The people on these forums are always the most helpful!
> 
> BTW your rig is sexy gl0ry. Love the white/black theme. Was thinking about doing that when I do a custom loop in the next few months. Need to find some of those white single braided cords for my AX750 too.


Thanks very much. I have some way nicer pics that I need to update the sig rig with


----------



## trippinonprozac

I couldnt help myself.... pulled the trigger on one of the Qnix pixel perfects from accessorieswhole. Their policy seems to be for 0 dead pixels so I figured it was worth the extra $50.

How long does Fedex normally take to deliver? Mine is currently in Incheon Sth Korea...


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> I couldnt help myself.... pulled the trigger on one of the Qnix pixel perfects from accessorieswhole. Their policy seems to be for 0 dead pixels so I figured it was worth the extra $50.
> 
> How long does Fedex normally take to deliver? Mine is currently in Incheon Sth Korea...


Definitely worth it, I got mine from him as well.

It took two days with UPS... that guy is fast I don't think it will take much longer than 2-3 business days.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Im in Australia but I guess that is even closer than the US









It was posted on Tuesday but says it wont arrive until Monday on the Fedex tracking


----------



## jlw777

Got mine yesterday and ordered last week Tuesday (27/08/2013) No dead pixels with the tests and minimal BLB, bought from accessorieswhole. with stock cable I'm pulling 96hz stable. Cranked up to 120hz it starts to artifact. Too lazy to shift through 644 pages. But I ordered a 2 meter 24AWG cable (I think the stock cable is 28AWG) Would that make the difference between 96hz and 120 hz Stable?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlw777*
> 
> Got mine yesterday and ordered last week Tuesday (27/08/2013) No dead pixels with the tests and minimal BLB, bought from accessorieswhole. with stock cable I'm pulling 96hz stable. Cranked up to 120hz it starts to artifact. Too lazy to shift through 644 pages. But I ordered a 2 meter 24AWG cable (I think the stock cable is 28AWG) Would that make the difference between 96hz and 120 hz Stable?


From my research it was concluded in this thread that cable size didn't matter.

Not to say trying a different cable wouldn't make a difference, but a thicker cable doesn't give you any better of an overclock, in fact someone said it gave him worse performance.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> From my research it was concluded in this thread that cable size didn't matter.
> 
> Not to say trying a different cable wouldn't make a difference, but a thicker cable doesn't give you any better of an overclock, in fact someone said it gave him worse performance.


This is more of an electrical argument than a research game. Any dual link DVI cable has a certain data rate that it is capable of and the size of the cable in terms of thickness is more about voltage over a distance. The thicker the cable the longer you can potentially send the data signal without data degradation. With overclocking you are pushing that data rate to its limits and cable quality does make a difference but it is not so much dependent of size, but is more on distance. The length of time the data is carried and the quality of the cable are the two main factors where size is a compensation for the length of time or distance the data is carried.

With this being said it is more important to get a very good quality short cable. If the thicker cables seem to have better results that would be worth considering in terms of how well the particular cables are made. The same could be said for a very short thin cable from a certain seller. This is why there are mixed reviews as no cable is equal(same as the monitor). The one thing that does show a very constant positive result is a shorter cable.

Over many of the tests i have done anything over 6ft seemed to have degraded results in stability per refresh regardless of the thickness. I originally bought 3 24AWG monoprice cables which had completely mixed results with one worse, one equal, and one better than the stock cable. After doing this i went up to work and tested about 30 DVI cables with the only constant positive factor being length.

After it was all said and done i found a random old DVI cable in a box at work that had no bells or whistles on ends, 24AWG and barely 3ft long that gave me the best results by a good margin(about 7hz over the best monoprice cable totaling 153hz). So go shorter than 6ft (as every cable i tried over 6ft barely hit 108hz) and get a few to try. Cables are not that expensive and if you have a few gamer friends there is likely several you can borrow and try to get the best overclock and don't worry too much about thickness.

Hope this pinpoints this topic and clears up some mis-information.


----------



## Ghost12

This is the video of my screen problem that I have had to make for the Ebay seller. Hopefully after this return will be prompt.


----------



## incep

New club member checking in









Bought it from accesorieswhole, it arrived in Norway after 6 days with Fedex on the door. Seller had very quick shipping and communication, price was fair.
It arrived well-packaged (seriously, they had like a whole roll of tape on it). It's perfectly stable on it's stand, better than my old Samsung monitor anyway, but I long for my Dell Ultrasharp stand.

No backlight bleed, no dead pixels of any kind, but if the monitor dispalys all white, you can see a scratch in the panel at the lower right area quite visible. Wasn't able to take a pic of it, and it can't be seen with any other colors on.
Quickly overclocked to 96hz with no problems, today I tried 120hz also. Did the test on testufo.com. Took a pic with my DSLR on 1/4 shutter speed, and it came out like this:



This imeans everything is all good, right?


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This is more of an electrical argument than a research game. Any dual link DVI cable has a certain data rate that it is capable of and the size of the cable in terms of thickness is more about voltage over a distance. The thicker the cable the longer you can potentially send the data signal without data degradation. With overclocking you are pushing that data rate to its limits and cable quality does make a difference but it is not so much dependent of size, but is more on distance. The length of time the data is carried and the quality of the cable are the two main factors where size is a compensation for the length of time or distance the data is carried.
> 
> With this being said it is more important to get a very good quality short cable. If the thicker cables seem to have better results that would be worth considering in terms of how well the particular cables are made. The same could be said for a very short thin cable from a certain seller. This is why there are mixed reviews as no cable is equal(same as the monitor). The one thing that does show a very constant positive result is a shorter cable.
> 
> Over many of the tests i have done anything over 6ft seemed to have degraded results in stability per refresh regardless of the thickness. I originally bought 3 24AWG monoprice cables which had completely mixed results with one worse, one equal, and one better than the stock cable. After doing this i went up to work and tested about 30 DVI cables with the only constant positive factor being length.
> 
> After it was all said and done i found a random old DVI cable in a box at work that had no bells or whistles on ends, 24AWG and barely 3ft long that gave me the best results by a good margin(about 7hz over the best monoprice cable totaling 153hz). So go shorter than 6ft (as every cable i tried over 6ft barely hit 108hz) and get a few to try. Cables are not that expensive and if you have a few gamer friends there is likely several you can borrow and try to get the best overclock and don't worry too much about thickness.
> 
> Hope this pinpoints this topic and clears up some mis-information.


Wow, awesome information, thank you. I had bought the Monoprice 24AWG right after I purchased the X-Star, I didn't realize it would be the thickness of a garden hose. I figured 3ft is way too short and needed something bigger, but i get horizontal static lines when I go to the Windows 8 start screen.

Of course the stock cable seems to work better but I'm still not getting 120hz, I still get the horizontal lines but they seem to be less. I tried using the "reduced LCD" timings at 120hz with the CRU program and it worked but after about an hour or so the lines came back, not as bad but still there. Do you think I'm getting some sort of interference? Any advise on hitting 120hz? Its kinda weird that it worked for a while and the lines just came back out of nowhere.

Right now, I'm on 115hz and it seems to be fine, in your experience(you seem to have a lot) do you think I should push it to like 118hz or 119hz? Or should I switch to 110hz, 100hz, etc. What I'm trying to say, is there a sweet spot if I'm having issues with 120hz or is the hz higher the better? Is it better to be on an even number or something like that?









Thanks to anyone who has advise.







I've been reading through the thread but its a ton of info to take in.

EDIT: I also ran a test with the reduced timings at 120hz on the TestUFO frame skipping test and everything was valid and the pic i took looked good, no skipped frames or anything. But after a while I started getting those lines and went back down a few hz.


----------



## jerrolds

Some say the thicker cables are better for OCing, but only by a few hz at most. For me, i tried 2 24AWG cables, and neither out performed the included 28AWG cable - both could hit 115, but the 28 gauge was the only able able to do 117hz.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> So I got my monitor today. Looks great, OCs to 120Hz with little issue. However, after running on 120 for a while, I noticed some burn, so I ran a burn fixer (video that flashes red, green, blue), and now I see some dead/suck pixels. I didn't even know that was possible. Does anyone know what I can do???


Didn't know what was possible? If they are just stuck they will probably work themselves out over time or are methods to unstick them similar to the thing you ran for the image retention (it's not actually "burn"..but maybe you should just lay off for now and use it "normally" for awhile). On that note, the retention spots go away over time too without trying to force it away. Dead are _dead_ and appear black (have no light).


----------



## skwannabe

So these koreans PLS monitors do not have a VESA mount?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes on the rear. Shallow holes but all standard.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skwannabe*
> 
> So these koreans PLS monitors do not have a VESA mount?


Yes VESA 100


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Didn't know what was possible? If they are just stuck they will probably work themselves out over time or are methods to unstick them similar to the thing you ran for the image retention (it's not actually "burn"..but maybe you should just lay off for now and use it "normally" for awhile). On that note, the retention spots go away over time too without trying to force it away. Dead are _dead_ and appear black (have no light).


I've gotten temporary burn in from my previous IPS screens. It's never permanent and a minor irritation that usually only happens when at high brightness. Not sure if PLS screens are susceptible but I don't see why not since they are so similar


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Wow, awesome information, thank you. I had bought the Monoprice 24AWG right after I purchased the X-Star, I didn't realize it would be the thickness of a garden hose. I figured 3ft is way too short and needed something bigger, but i get horizontal static lines when I go to the Windows 8 start screen.
> 
> Of course the stock cable seems to work better but I'm still not getting 120hz, I still get the horizontal lines but they seem to be less. I tried using the "reduced LCD" timings at 120hz with the CRU program and it worked but after about an hour or so the lines came back, not as bad but still there. Do you think I'm getting some sort of interference? Any advise on hitting 120hz? Its kinda weird that it worked for a while and the lines just came back out of nowhere.
> 
> Right now, I'm on 115hz and it seems to be fine, in your experience(you seem to have a lot) do you think I should push it to like 118hz or 119hz? Or should I switch to 110hz, 100hz, etc. What I'm trying to say, is there a sweet spot if I'm having issues with 120hz or is the hz higher the better? Is it better to be on an even number or something like that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to anyone who has advise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been reading through the thread but its a ton of info to take in.
> 
> EDIT: I also ran a test with the reduced timings at 120hz on the TestUFO frame skipping test and everything was valid and the pic i took looked good, no skipped frames or anything. But after a while I started getting those lines and went back down a few hz.


1. This is likely a matter of stability rather than interference as not all stability issues can be immediately seen

2. I would advise you shuffle you variables. Your main points of experimentation are:
.A: the cable(pretty much coovered in my last post)
.B: The port on your video card. I have SLI and my second cards lower port gave the best results by about 3hz
.C: The video card itself. Many have reported including myself that the 7xx nvidia series has given better results.
.D: setup, meaning drivers, monitor driver installation, proper driver patching.
.E: Timings. Any auto timing setting is never going to be as good as manually testing to find the best possible pixel clock. Many people have gotten as low as 450Mhz where auto keeps you around 470Mhz. This can make a big difference even 5-20hz. Try searching "front porch" in this thread as i have already gone into doing this manually in length. Also take a look at toastyx's forum lots of good info there.

3. If you are already at 115hz without extensive cable and timings testing i would say you should be able to get 120hz or higher with some reading and effort.

4. I don't ever recommend clocking back until all variables are exhausted. We are on an overclocking forum go for broke first then play it safe for the long term

5. A sweet spot is when you can maintain a refresh without issues. With all the different variables this is going to be a moving number depending on how well each piece of the puzzle performs and every panel is different.

6. Even number is not the concern. The only refresh number i would be interested in is keeping a multiple of 24hz to match main stream video content which is standard at 24fps(or 23.997). Kepping refresh at a multiple will decrease the pull down effect. If you are not worried about this then don't worry about any odd number framerate.

It is a lot to take in but you will get there


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> ...............................H.....................V
> Active pixels...2560...............1440
> Front porch.......48.....................2
> Sync width.........32.....................2
> Total pixels.....2595...............1444
> (this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
> Pixel [email protected] (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
> Pixel [email protected]
> ...................................................^
> this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU. If you use just the nvidia control panel and use CVT reduced you are at like 500Mhz already. With just the control panel i was able to get 134Hz which is 559Mhz before things got messy. Thinking of this as a kinda limit i tried to get the pixel clock as low as possible and then try again. This got me to 142hz which was just under the pixel clock of what i got before confirming they are very relative to each other. Next after adding the monoprice cable that was better than stock i got to 152Hz at just over the original 559Mhz showing some bandwidth improvement. Now since i hate uniformity issues i have set it back to 120hz but with the newly found total pixels and overall lower pixel clock. This reduced the "strain" i guess that was on the cable for the overclock and vastly decreased negative overclocking effects(gamma shift was better, uniformity was pretty much gone, etc)
> 
> Also using this same methodology i tried downsampling the screen to see how high the pixel count could go on this monitor. I am not going to get too much into it but i was able to get [email protected] with an overall pixel clock of 561Mhz. Please be careful when downsampling though as it can cause the monitor to go into test mode and also corrupt the start resolution. If you do get where restarting the PC does not bring the picture back connect a separate monitor and boot windows, then connect the Qnix as secondary. After that you can switch it to primary and go on as normal. If anyone sees anywhere this can be improved PLEASE jump in. I have done a lot of reading but there could always be something i missed.
> 
> Hopefully this helps some people get 120hz or at least some better results at that refresh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Fixed weird space removal


That worked perfect. I'm now at 120hz (459.86mhz) I used 2652x1445 total pixels cause I'm still using the stock cable. Whats the difference if I used 2560x1440 total pixels?

Since the mhz is lower are we losing anything by adjusting the timings like this? Is it still truly 120hz?









Now lets see if it sticks, cause I had 120hz with "lcd reduced" but eventually it started showing the lines. *fingers crossed*

Thank you very much!









EDIT: It's been about an hour and a half and its been working flawlessly. Thanks again! Gonna hit the front page and report a successful 120hz OC..


----------



## Robertdt

Hey, just curious, for those of you with the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II monitor, what are your brightness settings set at?

Because there is no on screen display, I counted how many times you can push the button to go from least brightness to full brightness, and I got 29, so I have set mine at about 17-19, which is a little brighter than halfway... but I'm not sure this is the optimal setting. Any thoughts? Also, should I be color calibrating this through software? I know I saw some software preset files on the first page but had not considered adjusting it yet.


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> That worked perfect. I'm now at 120hz (459.86mhz) I used 2652x1445 total pixels cause I'm still using the stock cable. Whats the difference if I used 2560x1440 total pixels?
> 
> Since the mhz is lower are we losing anything by adjusting the timings like this? Is it still truly 120hz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now lets see if it sticks, cause I had 120hz with "lcd reduced" but eventually it started showing the lines. *fingers crossed*
> 
> Thank you very much!


I also want to know what would happen if I put total pixels at 2560 x 1440. I don't want to down sample.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hey, just curious, for those of you with the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II monitor, what are your brightness settings set at?
> 
> Because there is no on screen display, I counted how many times you can push the button to go from least brightness to full brightness, and I got 29, so I have set mine at about 17-19, which is a little brighter than halfway... but I'm not sure this is the optimal setting. Any thoughts? Also, should I be color calibrating this through software? I know I saw some software preset files on the first page but had not considered adjusting it yet.


I personally set mine at full. It doesn't white out the colors or anything. I've never had a monitor still look good with brightness set to 100% so I wonder if my backlight is just dimmer than others.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hey, just curious, for those of you with the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II monitor, what are your brightness settings set at?
> 
> Because there is no on screen display, I counted how many times you can push the button to go from least brightness to full brightness, and I got 29, so I have set mine at about 17-19, which is a little brighter than halfway... but I'm not sure this is the optimal setting. Any thoughts? Also, should I be color calibrating this through software? I know I saw some software preset files on the first page but had not considered adjusting it yet.


I go about 8 clicks down from the maximum


----------



## Moragg

I go 10 clicks up from minimum. These monitors are really bright, burn my eyes if I use anything higher than about 16 clicks.

I got 10 clicks as that is just under the usual display calibraiton target of 120cd/m2 for display brightness - measured with an i1 Display Pro.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> That worked perfect. I'm now at 120hz (459.86mhz) I used 2652x1445 total pixels cause I'm still using the stock cable. Whats the difference if I used 2560x1440 total pixels?
> 
> Since the mhz is lower are we losing anything by adjusting the timings like this? Is it still truly 120hz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now lets see if it sticks, cause I had 120hz with "lcd reduced" but eventually it started showing the lines. *fingers crossed*
> 
> Thank you very much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: It's been about an hour and a half and its been working flawlessly. Thanks again! Gonna hit the front page and report a successful 120hz OC..


There are "total pixels", that includes inactive ones, "effective pixels", which includes operational but ignored ones and "optical blacks", ones that have light blocks and are used for "dark current" correction, there are active pixels, that excludes the ignored ones but includes the "optical blacks" thus being equal to your actual resolution. You cannot have your total pixels be equal to your resolution because that is essentially not all of the pixels being rendered for your image to display. Be lowering the total pixel count you remove more ignored pixels for rendering which does in theory have a sweet spot(this is where we get into binning and establishing total pixel standards). Each resolution or pixel count has a certain pad of excess optical black pixels to make sure there is no instability on this avenue. This is done as there is generally plenty of bandwidth to accommodate for it. When we overclock we push the equipments pixel clock to the limit so essentially optimizing this portion of the data stream becomes needed and beneficial where it would not have been before. So inherently you should not be losing any quality by doing this but rather optimizing one more variable in the string between panel and GPU and yes it is still true 120hz and we have proof of it







.

I hope i didn't lose anybody








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I also want to know what would happen if I put total pixels at 2560 x 1440. I don't want to down sample.


Downsampling is not a function of CRU. That is done in the nvidia control panel or with AMD downsampling tool or can be added manually to the render set in the EDID. This is going to be the rendered pixel count being separated and in excess of the active pixel count creating a hardware anti-aliasing effect. Simply put don't worry about accidentally downsampling with CRU.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There are "total pixels", that includes inactive ones, "effective pixels", which includes operational but ignored ones and "optical blacks", ones that have light blocks and are used for "dark current" correction, there are active pixels, that excludes the ignored ones but includes the "optical blacks" thus being equal to your actual resolution. You cannot have your total pixels be equal to your resolution because that is essentially not all of the pixels being rendered for your image to display. Be lowering the total pixel count you remove more ignored pixels for rendering which does in theory have a sweet spot(this is where we get into binning and establishing total pixel standards). Each resolution or pixel count has a certain pad of excess optical black pixels to make sure there is no instability on this avenue. This is done as there is generally plenty of bandwidth to accommodate for it. When we overclock we push the equipments pixel clock to the limit so essentially optimizing this portion of the data stream becomes needed and beneficial where it would not have been before. So inherently you should not be losing any quality by doing this but rather optimizing one more variable in the string between panel and GPU and yes it is still true 120hz and we have proof of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I hope i didn't lose anybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Downsampling is not a function of CRU. That is done in the nvidia control panel or with AMD downsampling tool or can be added manually to the render set in the EDID. This is going to be the rendered pixel count being separated and in excess of the active pixel count creating a hardware anti-aliasing effect. Simply put don't worry about accidentally downsampling with CRU.


Awesome.. Thanks for the explanation. I was just gonna stick with 110hz, I'm very glad I saw your post.







Still working perfecto!







Hope this helps other people too, cause I must have missed the front porch method on the first page or maybe its just not there, or maybe my brain is just mush at this point.


----------



## Betakaiser

Just got my Qnix matte monitor today from accessorieswhole and it has minimal BLB but has a cluster of 4 dead pixels in the center and a separate one below that cluster







. Its very distracting on white backgrounds like this website. Hopefully I can get a replacement from them and keep you all posted.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Betakaiser*
> 
> Just got my Qnix matte monitor today from accessorieswhole and it has minimal BLB but has a cluster of 4 dead pixels in the center and a separate one below that cluster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its very distracting on white backgrounds like this website. Hopefully I can get a replacement from them and keep you all posted.


That's why I opted to buy pixel perfect, the chacne of that happening scared me too much.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> That's why I opted to buy pixel perfect, the chacne of that happening scared me too much.


Likewise with me. I know that its an extra $50 but to me the chance of getting a dud is well worth the extra money.


----------



## Tzoi

Hi, joined up to post in this thread









Bought a X-star DP2710 from dream-seller for USD$279, took 9 working days to arrive here in New Zealand. It went quite a long route (Busan-Incheon-Shanghai-Guangzhou-Singapore-Auckland). No taxes/GST as it was under NZD$400.

I've tried to look for dead pixels using the link in the OP and there doesn't seem to be any. It's daytime so I haven't checked out BLB extensively but from what I can tell there doesn't appear to be much. I don't think there's any panel play either. I haven't tried overclocking the monitor yet, and I don't think my graphics card could handle the higher frame rate anyway (1GB GIGABYTE HD6950) but I probably will at some point. I'll probably have to turn AA off to run things at 60fps at this resolution given my VRAM.

I've mounted the monitor on a VESA stand with two 1080p monitors in portrait on either side. The stand says it can only take up to 24" but since the monitors are in portrait it doesn't really matter. The short VESA holes on the back of the monitor are pretty annoying though. The screws that came with the stand were 3mm or so too long so I bought some washers and put them in between the monitor and the stand (I couldn't find shorter screws of the same type at the hardware store). Hopefully it holds up, I'd imagine this places extra pressure on the screws?

Enjoying the extra screen space so far and am proud to be a member of this club


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tzoi*
> 
> Hi, joined up to post in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a X-star DP2710 from dream-seller for USD$279, took 9 working days to arrive here in New Zealand. It went quite a long route (Busan-Incheon-Shanghai-Guangzhou-Singapore-Auckland). No taxes/GST as it was under NZD$400.
> 
> I've tried to look for dead pixels using the link in the OP and there doesn't seem to be any. It's daytime so I haven't checked out BLB extensively but from what I can tell there doesn't appear to be much. I don't think there's any panel play either. I haven't tried overclocking the monitor yet, and I don't think my graphics card could handle the higher frame rate anyway (1GB GIGABYTE HD6950) but I probably will at some point. I'll probably have to turn AA off to run things at 60fps at this resolution given my VRAM.
> 
> I've mounted the monitor on a VESA stand with two 1080p monitors in portrait on either side. The stand says it can only take up to 24" but since the monitors are in portrait it doesn't really matter. The short VESA holes on the back of the monitor are pretty annoying though. The screws that came with the stand were 3mm or so too long so I bought some washers and put them in between the monitor and the stand (I couldn't find shorter screws of the same type at the hardware store). Hopefully it holds up, I'd imagine this places extra pressure on the screws?
> 
> Enjoying the extra screen space so far and am proud to be a member of this club


What size 1080p monitors did you go portrait with? Also - who did dream seller use to ship to you?


----------



## UrbanToast

Hey everyone just got my Qnix monitor and I overclocked it straight to 120hz. It runs fine but there is a slight horizontal flicker in the top right side of my monitor. It runs fine otherwise and is barely noticeable but does anyone know how to fix this??


----------



## Burnt

So I took apart my monitor again to redo the BLB tape fix. It is better along the bottom but I managed to create a new bleed area on the top and in the bottom right corner. I then took it apart again and taped all the sides but that didn't fix the new bleed areas. I am wondering if it is okay to put a second layer of tape on along the top and the bottom right corner or if that is going to be too thick and cause bleeding everywhere else on the monitor. I have already taken the monitor all the way apart twice tonight and am not looking forward to it again because of risking damage. Anyone already try multiple layers of tape?


----------



## GoneTurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanToast*
> 
> Hey everyone just got my Qnix monitor and I overclocked it straight to 120hz. It runs fine but there is a slight horizontal flicker in the top right side of my monitor. It runs fine otherwise and is barely noticeable but does anyone know how to fix this??


Same thing happen to me at 120hz.

I tuned it to 117hz, it works fine now!


----------



## UrbanToast

Could the dvi cable it came with be the reason this is happening?? I played around with different refresh rates and only at 60hz is it gone. I'm not getting any frame skipping just this annoying flicker.


----------



## Tzoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> What size 1080p monitors did you go portrait with? Also - who did dream seller use to ship to you?


One is a 23" Dell u2312, the other is 23.6" AOC2436vwh which isn't IPS so it can look a bit funny in portrait.

He used fedex I believe


----------



## UrbanToast

My top right flicker is reduced when i drop the refresh rate down to 96hz but i really want to get it to 120hz. Anyone know what the problem is.


----------



## Xentar712

Have you tried the suggestions of Spartan F8 just a few pages back?


----------



## yasamoka

On almost every page, the same advice about overclocking is repeated over and over and over and over again...

People...*read*. Nobody is asking you to read 600 pages, but just jacking up the refresh rate and having expectations is...not a very smart thing to do, particularly with the side effects you get doing such a thing.

When you see a bunch of numbers next to the one you're editing, then it's time to learn what *those numbers* do.


----------



## UrbanToast

Mate there is no need to be rude. I have got the overclock fairly stable except for some scan lines occasionally and one corner of my screen is darker than the rest. What would i need to adjust in CRU to fix this?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanToast*
> 
> Mate there is no need to be rude. I have got the overclock fairly stable except for some scan lines occasionally and one corner of my screen is darker than the rest. What would i need to adjust in CRU to fix this?


I am not being rude, but this question has been asked a million times already. Search for "Front Porch" in this thread, for example, you'll stumble upon Spartan F8's posts where he has given excruciating detail into what he's done to reduce the pixel clock.

Even the reply above mine has mentioned looking a few pages back to find the same posts I'm leading you to.

And you've just described a side effect which solution has been covered several times already...*lower the pixel clock by adjusting other settings.*


----------



## UrbanToast

So lowering the pixel clock will fix both these problems?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanToast*
> 
> So lowering the pixel clock will fix both these problems?


Yes. Find Spartan's posts, he's written it up brilliantly and if that doesn't help come back an ask.

It's a long and boring process, like most OCing, so give it an hour at least.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanToast*
> 
> So lowering the pixel clock will fix both these problems?


Yes, lowering it by adjusting the other numbers. This monitor uses the EP269 display controller which is capable of a 450MHz pixel clock natively. This implies that keeping pixel clock at or below that would reduce / eliminate the side effects of overclocking this monitor (far). Spartan F8 has gotten to ~459MHz @ 120Hz, which is technically a ~2% overclock, considering the capabilities of the display controller.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanToast*
> 
> So lowering the pixel clock will fix both these problems?


Read pages 646 and 647 and you will find some stuff to try, its not your exact problem but worth a shot.


----------



## UrbanToast

I have read his posts and have a fairly good understanding now. i was in the process of lowering the pixel clock and got it to this point which was stable just wasn't sure if these side effects would completely go away with more tweaking. I will keep going lower and see how it goes. Overall i'm loving this monitor, the fact it's overclockable without buying a marked up version like the catleaps is awesome. Thanks for the help.


----------



## geoxile

I just got my Qnix 2710 (matte) in the mail.

Its contrast measured in at 410:1
About 100cd/m^2 brightness and 0.23cd/m^2 black

This is crap. It's worse than the nearly 4 year old TN monitors I have right now.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> I just got my Qnix 2710 (matte) in the mail.
> 
> Its contrast measured in at 410:1
> About 100cd/m^2 brightness and 0.23cd/m^2 black
> 
> This is crap. It's worse than the nearly 4 year old TN monitors I have right now.


I take it those measurements were post-calibration? What contrast ratio were you expecting at that low of brightness? Plus, I don't think the spec they give of 1000:1 is accurate for the matte versions. They have the same spec for glossy and they are the exact same panel.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> I take it those measurements were post-calibration? What contrast ratio were you expecting at that low of brightness? Plus, I don't think the spec they give of 1000:1 is accurate for the matte versions. They have the same spec for glossy and they are the exact same panel.


Yes post-calibration, and I expected at least 800:1. My 24" TN's contrast measures around 600:1 and my secondary TN measures 600:1 to 700:1.

Also, panels tend to have similar contrast ratios across different brightness levels so it shouldn't really matter that the brightness is low; the black levels should drop relative to the maximum brightness. I was expecting some backlight bleed or a few dead pixels or something, but not this.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Yes post-calibration, and I expected at least 800:1. My 24" TN's contrast measures around 600:1 and my secondary TN measures 600:1 to 700:1.
> 
> Also, panels tend to have similar contrast ratios across different brightness levels so it shouldn't really matter that the brightness is low; the black levels should drop relative to the maximum brightness. I was expecting some backlight bleed or a few dead pixels or something, but not this.


Try a higher brightness around 200cd/m^2 and see what you get. It will probably give you better results. If you do, please let me know - I'm curious myself. I think these screens react more harshly at different brightness levels than TN panels do. My contrast ratio on my other IPS screen dropped from 600:1 to under 300:1 when going from 200 to 100 cd/m^2. anandtech has also shown reviews with similar results on other IPS screens. I realize this is PLS but it's really not that different. I personally keep my brightness cranked up on my model to cut down on the glare. Took a while to get used to that brightness though. I haven't measured my levels yet because my colorimeter is on loan, but it looks better than when the screen is dim.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Try a higher brightness around 200cd/m^2 and see what you get. It will probably give you better results. If you do, please let me know - I'm curious myself. I think these screens react more harshly at different brightness levels than TN panels do. My contrast ratio on my other IPS screen dropped from 600:1 to under 300:1 when going from 200 to 100 cd/m^2. anandtech has also shown reviews with similar results on other IPS screens. I realize this is PLS but it's really not that different. I personally keep my brightness cranked up on my model to cut down on the glare. Took a while to get used to that brightness though. I haven't measured my levels yet because my colorimeter is on loan, but it looks better than when the screen is dim.


http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2713hm.htm
IPS panels shouldn't be different from TN panels. I think it has more to do with the nature of LED (backlighting) than it has to do with the actual panel type. Also, I can't really use a higher brightness. I keep my room fairly dark and 100cd/m^2 is the best for me. Even in an office environment 200cd/m^2 would be way too bright for me.

Edit: There is also a weird glow coming off of the monitor. I would think it was IPS glow but I can still (sort of) see it from a distance of a several feet facing the monitor directly. If it's IPS glow it's the worst I've seen short of a defective monitor I've had.


----------



## yasamoka

What colorimeter are you using for measurement? MenacingTuba got 1200:1 in his review and other numbers do match.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Try a higher brightness around 200cd/m^2 and see what you get. It will probably give you better results. If you do, please let me know - I'm curious myself. I think these screens react more harshly at different brightness levels than TN panels do. My contrast ratio on my other IPS screen dropped from 600:1 to under 300:1 when going from 200 to 100 cd/m^2. anandtech has also shown reviews with similar results on other IPS screens. I realize this is PLS but it's really not that different. I personally keep my brightness cranked up on my model to cut down on the glare. Took a while to get used to that brightness though. I haven't measured my levels yet because my colorimeter is on loan, but it looks better than when the screen is dim.


You might be using a Spyder colorimeter I'm guessing? These are known for their inaccuracy in reading black levels. Actually all colorimeters suffer, albeit differently, in black level accuracy.

Brightness control is backlight control. The contrast ratio should barely shift when changing brightness.


----------



## geoxile

Yep, Spyder4. But either way, it still _looks_ worse than the monitors I have right now, both of which are fairly old at this point. You would think it would at least be better than old TN panels. So far the best monitor I've tried is the Dell S2440L but I can't stand glossy screens.


----------



## mudzi

Hi, I am currently using a Fujitsu SL27-1 which has a lot of backlight bleeding and low ppi so im thinking about upgrading my monitor and the one that caught my eye was QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel, I am pretty sure about ordering a pixel perfect version because it doesnt cost a lot more and it would be a shame if I would have major pixel problems and had to send it back. The problem is my current Graphics card is gtx 460 768mb and im quite sure I cant play most games on 1440p but can I still use windows and maybe play Counter Strike : GO and League of Legends? I am gonna start playing these graphicly amazing games as soon as I get a new graphics card and it is probably going to be 8970 if im purchasing a new one. But as far as I know the current 7970 cant play games at high settings with 100fps so do I really need an overclockable monitor? I saw a comparison between the Qnix evolution 2 and a Crossover monitor and the Backlight bleed was not noticable at all on the Crossover while you could clearly see it on the Qnix so, should I get an Qnix or some other brand?


----------



## Moragg

Good point about if you can push the frames or not... but ignoring the OCing ability this monitor still has 1440p PLS with very low input lag. 120Hz (almost) makes it a no-brainer as mouse movement is smoother, and for watching videos it removes the need for unnatural 3:2 pulldown.

In FPS you could turn down some settings to get the high framerates, or (a good thing) 40fps is now an option for vsync, which is a decent number for a smooth experience. 30 is borderline acceptable, 40 gives a nice smooth game (I find anyway.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Yep, Spyder4. But either way, it still _looks_ worse than the monitors I have right now, both of which are fairly old at this point. You would think it would at least be better than old TN panels. So far the best monitor I've tried is the Dell S2440L but I can't stand glossy screens.


Well fwiw...I don't have a a Spyder4 but have brought home and tried various devices from work from an i1 Pro to a ColorMunki and so far have still gotten the best general, overall result with a couple ICCs from others here (after some slight manual tweaks such as to saturation). The ColorMunki especially made it way too dark (though that is a spectro and geared towards print).

Read Menacing Tuba's review if you haven't already. It's very professional and in-depth.


----------



## Moragg

Wigleyvillain - what software did you use for calibration, and what calibration targets did you use? I used the i1 pro and got a very nice result.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

DispcalGUI. "Targets" like D65 and 120cd brightness, for example? (I'm kinda new to this; work general IT for an ad firm at present).


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well fwiw...I don't have a a Spyder4 but have brought home and tried various devices from work from an i1 Pro to a ColorMunki and so far have still gotten the best general, overall result with a couple ICCs from others here (after some slight manual tweaks such as to saturation). The ColorMunki especially made it way too dark (though that is a spectro and geared towards print).
> 
> Read Menacing Tuba's review if you haven't already. It's very professional and in-depth.


I've read his review a few times. Unfortunately reading it more won't fix my problems.


----------



## TinyMud

Before this forum passes judgement on me, I suggest you read this AnandTech thread: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2336972


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> It's very professional and in-depth.


Thx, professionals get paid, I don't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Unfortunately reading it more won't fix my problems.


What is your target brightness? Are you forcing the software to adjust the brightness or turning it down manually first and only letting the software correct the colors & gamma (this is what you should be doing).


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Thx, professionals get paid, I don't.
> What is your target brightness? Are you forcing the software to adjust the brightness or turning it down manually first and only letting the software correct the colors & gamma (this is what you should be doing).


100cd/m^2. Letting the software more or less run its course, I can't really help it.

Before I started the calibration brightness was measured as 103 or 104cd/m^2. Either way, I'm using spyder4pro so I can't set a custom brightness, instead the software will use the closest approximate brightness as a target. So it measured in at around 102cd/m^2 and Spyder targeted 102cd/m^2. I tried dispcalGUI and it's reporting contrast as 486:1 now. The glow is still there though, still viewable from a distance. Up close on my desk it will be even worse.

Oh, the physical controls for brightness suck by the way. There were huge jumps between brightness at the lower end, going from 80ish cd/m^2, 100ish cd/m^2, to 120ish cd/m^2


----------



## MenacingTuba

DL HCFR and measure the default colors, you probably don't need to do anything aside from turn down the brightness.

Don't let the software adjust the brightness, surely there is a Native setting. Could also dl the basICColor 5 demo (let's one use the native brightness) and calibrate it.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Monitor just showed up!!! So happy it made it before the weekend!

Packaging is in great condition however I am at work so cant test until I get home.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> DL HCFR and measure the default colors, you probably don't need to do anything aside from turn down the brightness.
> 
> Don't let the software adjust the brightness, surely there is a Native setting. Could also dl the basICColor 5 demo (let's use use the native brightness) and calibrate it.


Last time I tried HCFR I couldn't get it working with the Spyder. And basiCColor has always been terrible for me. The only environment I was able to ever use it in was a fresh install of Windows 7 32-bit home premium with virtually nothing else on it.


----------



## grsmobile

I live in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada and I was just wondering if this will have any import fees and if it will have tax on it. (5% GST or 5% + 7% PST?) Thanks in Advance!


----------



## Proclaim89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Likewise with me. I know that its an extra $50 but to me the chance of getting a dud is well worth the extra money.


Hey trippinonprozac I read a few posts back that you bought your monitor from accessorieswhole and your in australia. Well im in australia aswell but when I try to purchase from accessorieswhole it says he doesnt ship to australia, just wanted to know how you got working.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> I live in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada and I was just wondering if this will have any import fees and if it will have tax on it. (5% GST or 5% + 7% PST?) Thanks in Advance!


I also live in BC, I've purchased a 4 Korean monitors and paid around 35$ in duty fees.


----------



## BoingLoings

Have anyone experience while gaming at 96hz or 120hz, the monitor just goes into sleep mode? Qnix if it matters

Was playing Saints Row 4 and the monitor just went to sleep, it didn't pick up when I turned off the monitor on/off. It picked up when I restarted the computer. Just happen once. I was gaming with Rayman Legends for longer, no problems. Just asking in case it happens again.

7950 on amd beta drivers


----------



## grsmobile

hey thanks for the reply. so you paid $280 usd > 294 Canadian plus $35 fees taxes etc for grand total $330 or so? is it $35 in duty fees for 4 monitors like u got or just 1?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grsmobile*
> 
> hey thanks for the reply. so you paid $280 usd > 294 Canadian plus $35 fees taxes etc for grand total $330 or so? is it $35 in duty fees for 4 monitors like u got or just 1?


I paid 380$ for a pixel perfect Qnix & 400-500$ for the 3 Crossovers I've purchased. 35$-ish was paid each time


----------



## grsmobile

alright thanks. I was gonna get matte x-star from dreamseller since i heard more people prefer x-star to qnix. $330 is such a steal


----------



## geoxile

Question for you Tuba. Do Spyders measure blacks higher than they should?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Question for you Tuba. Do Spyders measure blacks higher than they should?


Yes, PCM2 has told you this a few times already
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> For what reason?
> 
> Curious because I am going to order two more Qnix/X-Stars in the coming weeks.


Check the Crossover (non Black Tune) thread, AW honored the 1 year warranty and sent quite a few people new video boards/power supplies which fixed their issues.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Check the Crossover (non Black Tune) thread, AW honored the 1 year warranty and sent quite a few people new video boards/power supplies which fixed their issues.


Hmm, that's good of him.

Though that's a $20 premium per monitor over dream-seller.

Decisions, decisions...


----------



## geoxile

Who's PCM2?

Edit: Well, even assuming the black is lower than measured the glow is still very present, even from the front. At normal sitting distance (1.5 to 2 feet) it's VERY noticeable. I got it from ipsledmonitors.com, but should I return it or exchange it?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well you're the first one to really be dissatisfied in this way(s) that I know of and if you do need to return obviously it was a wise move going ipsled...


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well you're the first one to really be dissatisfied in this way(s) that I know of and if you do need to return obviously it was a wise move going ipsled...


Well, it can't be normal behavior. Especially if these PLS monitors are supposed to have less IPS glow than other IPS panels. The best way to describe it would be to say it looks like someone turned up the brightness using digital settings. And I've recalibrated it with the native brightness, no improvements.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> 1.) Who's PCM2?
> 
> 2.) Should I return or exchange it?


1.) Someone who has answered your Spyder question multiple times and PCM2=PC Monitors Reviewer.

2.) Rhetorical question/Not sure if serious


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Well, it can't be normal behavior. Especially if these PLS monitors are supposed to have less IPS glow than other IPS panels. The best way to describe it would be to say it looks like someone turned up the brightness using digital settings. And I've recalibrated it with the native brightness, no improvements.


It sounds like PLS glow. Are you just setting the monitor to an all black screen? Most people aren't complaining about PLS glow because it goes unnoticed during normal use.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> It sounds like PLS glow. Are you just setting the monitor to an all black screen? Most people aren't complaining about PLS glow because it goes unnoticed during normal use.


It's visible during normal use (movies and games) whenever anything is remotely dark. And it's pretty severe. Compared to something like gamma shift on a TN or VA this is much much worse.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> It's visible during normal use (movies and games) whenever anything is remotely dark. And it's pretty severe. Compared to something like gamma shift on a TN or VA this is much much worse.


Well, no one here can see your screen and I'm guessing most are not comparing a TN panel next to their PLS. I think most are just happy with the resolution and overclock-ability. Maybe check your cable to ensure nothing weird is happening there. Otherwise it sounds like your not PLS fan...


----------



## hutt132

The main post is screwed up for me all of a sudden. I'm on a desktop and this is all it shows "The Korean PLS Monitor ClubQnix QX2710 & X-Star DP2710Warning!! This post is not mobile browser friendly. Optimal viewing of the information contained via "desktop" browsingNEW MEMBERSLEASE READ...".


----------



## JSK23

I've been reading this off and on for months now and may finally be ready to pull the trigger. Ive been debating about paying the $60-70 premium for ipsledmonitors solid return policy, vs buying one on ebay and having to worry about the hassle of returning one that looks like crap. Are there any valid coupon codes right now for that site?

Then again I will probably swap out the stand in the immediate future, so if I am already going to be opening it up I can probably tape much of the black light bleed when I do that. But that still doesn't cover any other damage problems or pixel issues.

So that is my internal debate. I can swing the extra cost if its worth it. I just don't want to if doesn't make sense. Kind of wish I know the percentages of monitors that came across to the states fine vs those that have had pixel or blb issues.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Well, no one here can see your screen and I'm guessing most are not comparing a TN panel next to their PLS. I think most are just happy with the resolution and overclock-ability. Maybe check your cable to ensure nothing weird is happening there. Otherwise it sounds like your not PLS fan...


Perhaps people here didn't compare them side-by-side, but they at least decided that PLS looked (sometimes worlds) better, so they must have compared one way or another.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Perhaps people here didn't compare them side-by-side, but they at least decided that PLS looked (sometimes worlds) better, so they must have compared one way or another.


Either way it is all subjective. I think most people myself included noticed the 1440p resolution on a 27" screen before anything else. I don't think many are putting it under the same microscope that you are.


----------



## Net200777




----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Either way it is all subjective. I think most people myself included noticed the 1440p resolution on a 27" screen before anything else. I don't think many are putting it under the same microscope that you are.


I would have noticed it even without comparing it side by side. For me, the problem makes the monitor virtually unusable for anything that's color intensive (like digital art).

After talking to people here I'm beginning to think it's just normal behavior, though I never noticed something like this with the dell S2340L. On the other hand, it looks worse than the video here 



But I tried capturing it on camera and the glow didn't look as nearly as bad on camera as it did in person.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> The main post is screwed up for me all of a sudden. I'm on a desktop and this is all it shows "The Korean PLS Monitor ClubQnix QX2710 & X-Star DP2710Warning!! This post is not mobile browser friendly. Optimal viewing of the information contained via "desktop" browsingNEW MEMBERSLEASE READ...".


Same for me too. I don't know what happened. It was fine yesterday when I looked at it, and it says the last edit was on 8/27 (so nothing has changed immediately).


----------



## yasamoka

@geoxile: Did you try measuring contrast ratio without applying any calibration? Adjust brightness from low to high and measure contrast ratio for each brightness level you set. Don't forget to mention the Black Level measured for each brightness level.

I advise you to use DispcalGUI for that, based on my own experience. Very easy to use. If other software like HCFR works for you, why not.

But take a breath and test things out step by step.


----------



## Moragg

Contrast ratio is affected by BLB and calibration targets - I found that correcting my black level cut my contrast ratio from 1200:1 to 650:1 - leaving it uncorrected (no detectable difference to human eye) gave the best results.


----------



## RKTGX95

Have been lurking here for a little while, and i hope some might help with my questions:

A) Any suggestions on how long might the shipment form Korea (through eBay) might take to Israel? (excluding customs)
B) Most recommended seller of the Qnix QX2710 to Israel?
C) Glossy, Matte or Tempered ?

All help is appreciated


----------



## wim1337

a) a guy ordered to saudi arabia and i think it took about 6 days. I do not know trading routes though...
b) I do not think it depends on Israel, just pick one of the reliable sellers (i got mine from green-sum)
c) depends on your preference







i have matte and i'm satisfied!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wim1337*
> 
> a) a guy ordered to saudi arabia and i think it took about 6 days. I do not know trading routes though...
> b) I do not think it depends on Israel, just pick one of the reliable sellers (i got mine from green-sum)
> c) depends on your preference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have matte and i'm satisfied!


thanks for the input.
So which re-sellers are recommended / trusted the most?

(honestly, i just have no info on the tempered glass option unlike the matte and glossy options)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Perhaps people here didn't compare them side-by-side, but they at least decided that PLS looked (sometimes worlds) better, so they must have compared one way or another.


Well I've got professionally-calibrated Eizos and Apple Thunderbolts and a couple $2000 NEC 1600Ps at work and the general overall IQ on this QNIX is among the most pleasing I've ever seen. Maybe I'm not the "best judge" but still a bit surprised at your impression. Unless there is in fact something wrong with yours...


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well I've got professionally-calibrated Eizos and Apple Thunderbolts and a couple $2000 NEC 1600Ps at work and the general overall IQ on this QNIX is among the most pleasing I've ever seen. Maybe I'm not the "best judge" but still a bit surprised at your impression. Unless there is in fact something wrong with yours...


In your opinion, how does a calibrated QNIX compare to a professionally-calibrated Eizo or, dare say even the NEC 1600p?







I'm curious to know how it compares...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I think the QNIX looks better. Not re. professional work and what have you; I am talking "general IQ" not accuracy and the like. Though I also manually tweaked my QNIX a little raising saturation and color temp a bit to my personal tastes. Not quite apples to apples...


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> @geoxile: Did you try measuring contrast ratio without applying any calibration? Adjust brightness from low to high and measure contrast ratio for each brightness level you set. Don't forget to mention the Black Level measured for each brightness level.
> 
> I advise you to use DispcalGUI for that, based on my own experience. Very easy to use. If other software like HCFR works for you, why not.
> 
> But take a breath and test things out step by step.


It's no better without any calibration. It's actually worse apparently. Either way, the measurements don't change how the monitor actually looks. I've contacted ipsledmonitors for a RMA. I'll probably try another one and hopefully it'll be better.

Edit: Okay, I guess my request for an exchange was denied because of high demand. I can only return it for a refund.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Oh snap. Seems these guys have found a very successful business model though I guess that should come as no surprise. Though supply in general appears tighter now due to popularity...also no surprise. Though one would be that the prices haven't gone up as yet (down if anything over the summer).

And that is still better than having to deal with Korea for any type of RMA service.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Either way, the measurements don't change how the monitor actually looks.


That statement if anything leads me to believe there may in fact be a defect. Have you tried other's ICCs as well just to see?


----------



## Semus

Pulled the trigger on the Qnix QX2710 Glossy. It will be here on Monday and I will post some before and after images of the backlight bleeding (if there is any at all). I really won't like taking it apart to fix the bleeding, but I'll do it if I have to.

I'm really thinking of doing the same with my Crossover 27Q. Not sure if I can fix the blue-ish tint on it, though.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sLaYDeMOn*
> 
> damn the tempered glass looks nice but the reflection does not... this only confused me even more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the right thing to do is go with the glossy... the aesthetically pleasing thing to do is go with the tempered.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Have been lurking here for a little while, and i hope some might help with my questions:
> 
> A) Any suggestions on how long might the shipment form Korea (through eBay) might take to Israel? (excluding customs)
> B) Most recommended seller of the Qnix QX2710 to Israel?
> C) Glossy, Matte or Tempered ?
> 
> All help is appreciated


Just an FYI. I bought my glossy panel through green-sum and it came with tempered glass. I don't think there is a difference when you purchase the two(meaning they all will have glass) and there is glare for sure. Has anyone who purchased a glossy panel not gotten glass? I've been considering removing the glass panel to see the difference but I haven't gotten the guts yet. It's only held on with tape on the edges. Also, from what I;ve read, the matte panels also have glass but it just has a coating on it.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> (honestly, i just have no info on the tempered glass option unlike the matte and glossy options)


Tempered glass option is glossy but with a panel of glass in front - so more reflections + potential for dust to be trapped.

I'd take matte personally, it is a very light coating and gets of of the vast majority of reflections. And my personal theory (I can't really back this up) is that the brightness level makes more difference to the "pop". Glossy may look ever so slightly sharper, but in that case I prefer the mate coating and lower brightness as it is easier on the eyes (and looks more natural, but that part's subjective).

]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> It's no better without any calibration. It's actually worse apparently. Either way, the measurements don't change how the monitor actually looks. I've contacted ipsledmonitors for a RMA. I'll probably try another one and hopefully it'll be better.


Definitely doesn't look worse.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> I would have noticed it even without comparing it side by side. For me, the problem makes the monitor virtually unusable for anything that's color intensive (like digital art).
> 
> After talking to people here I'm beginning to think it's just normal behavior, though I never noticed something like this with the dell S2340L. On the other hand, it looks worse than the video here
> 
> 
> 
> But I tried capturing it on camera and the glow didn't look as nearly as bad on camera as it did in person.


What glow are you speaking of? Is it the white haze that appears when looking at it from above?


----------



## DJ EAM

Hey Fellas,

I'm new here been reading about this monitor for sometime now and thanks to all the awesome posts and discussions here I decided to take the plunge myself too and get one. I picked up the Qnix QX2710 from Red-Cap Pixel Perfect Version for $284.99. Just bought it this past Wed 9/4 has an ETA of Tuesday 9/10, cant wait. I'm currently running an old 22" 720P Active Matrix LCD monitor....sooo cant wait for the Qnix to come in.

Had a few questions if anyone could maybe help me please









1. I saw before there is a FAQ and bunch of other info on the OP first page but for some odd reason its not their today.....is it me or is it missing? (I was hoping to get some of the OC and color utilities)

2. I'm currently running a Sapphire HD7950 Vapor-X - I noticed AMD released a new driver out today Catalyst 13.10 Beta http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles/Pages/AMDCatalyst13-10WINBetaDriver.aspx

does anyone know if I install the new driver will I have to re-install the AMD Pixel Clock Patch too, does this need to be installed with every new driver?

Thanks for any help, and hope your all having a great Friday


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> What glow are you speaking of? Is it the white haze that appears when looking at it from above?


IPS/PLS glow, except it's visible from the front too. I think the effect may have diminished a bit but then again it's probably just because my room is in sunlight right now, so it isn't as noticeable.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> IPS/PLS glow, except it's visible from the front too. I think the effect may have diminished a bit but then again it's probably just because my room is in sunlight right now, so it isn't as noticeable.


I have some glow but it's certainly not from the front. It's far better than the glow I got from my Monoprice IPS, but even that did not have any from the front. I can't see it at all in the video but if you are seeing it, it might be a defect.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> I have some glow but it's certainly not from the front. It's far better than the glow I got from my Monoprice IPS, but even that did not have any from the front. I can't see it at all in the video but if you are seeing it, it might be a defect.


What video? The one from the overclockers.ru review? That's not my monitor, that was just a reference.


----------



## shw89

Anyone who purchased from dreamseller could please pm me his store address or address you guys filled out for the FCC form? I would really like this monitor delivered this week instead of customs making me wait







Thanks.


----------



## MrGreenankle

Is the first huge post broken or is it just looking weird for me? I needed to check how to overclock again since I did a fresh windows installation, but now that's gone... Halp pls!


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGreenankle*
> 
> Is the first huge post broken or is it just looking weird for me? I needed to check how to overclock again since I did a fresh windows installation, but now that's gone... Halp pls!


It's broken.

The files you need to find:

atikmdag-patcher-1.2

>I think this is the latets version, no testmode required









cru-1.0

>again, I think this is the latest version.

Edit: shouldn't be hard to find these on the interwebs. Official links should be on first page after a google search, I wouldn't get programs like these from anywhere else - that's just asking for trouble.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> The main post is screwed up for me all of a sudden. I'm on a desktop and this is all it shows "The Korean PLS Monitor ClubQnix QX2710 & X-Star DP2710Warning!! This post is not mobile browser friendly. Optimal viewing of the information contained via "desktop" browsingNEW MEMBERSLEASE READ...".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Same for me too. I don't know what happened. It was fine yesterday when I looked at it, and it says the last edit was on 8/27 (so nothing has changed immediately).


Looking into this now. Stay tuned.


----------



## Jinru

I haven't been keeping up on the Qnix/X-Star fiasco for the past few months. Is this still the best guide available in text/img or video format for fixing backlight bleeding? Are there any other guides on here or some other site that provides more information?

http://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1g_I0oQEneO4fZDMnTTJiw/videos


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> Anyone who purchased from dreamseller could please pm me his store address or address you guys filled out for the FCC form? I would really like this monitor delivered this week instead of customs making me wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I sure don't know what the hell this is really about; a few people have gotten this bs I think and it always seems to from "Fed Ex" whereas the vast majority of US buyers have no issues with duty, customs or any kind of FCC crap and they just show up in a matter of days. Though mine didn't come via Fed Ex nor do the majority I gather. At first I was suspicious this was another stalling tactic from dream-seller (from whom you probably would not have bought if you'd read more here) but surely not every one of his buyers has dealt with this or we would be aware.

There are many complaints about dream-seller but "FCC forms" is not one them.


----------



## shw89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I sure don't know what the hell this is really about; a few people have gotten this bs I think and it always seems to from "Fed Ex" whereas the vast majority of US buyers have no issues with duty, customs or any kind of FCC crap and they just show up in a matter of days. Though mine didn't come via Fed Ex nor do the majority I gather. At first I was suspicious this was another stalling tactic from dream-seller (from whom you probably would not have bought if you'd read more here) but surely not every one of his buyers has dealt with this or we would be aware.
> 
> There are many complaints about dream-seller but "FCC forms" is not one them.


Ughh, she told me the package wont be delivered until its filled out. But I checked the tracking and its the US, at Ankorage AK... What should I do? I pmd dreamseller in eBay and said his store closed until Monday...


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cancel and order from someone else. Dream-seller was a bad choice anyway, at least relatively speaking.


----------



## shw89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cancel and order from someone else. Dream-seller was a bad choice anyway, at least relatively speaking.


I cant... its shipped and in AK right now .. maybe itll be delivered by Monday.


----------



## jerrolds

My shipment from accesorieswhole is kinda behaving that way too - from SK to Ankorage AK, then for some reason back to SK? Delievery date still says Monday.

This is going thru FedEx as well - i havent heard anything from accesorieswhole so hopefully its just a weird labelling mistake.

Destination is to Canada


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> I haven't been keeping up on the Qnix/X-Star fiasco for the past few months. Is this still the best guide available in text/img or video format for fixing backlight bleeding? Are there any other guides on here or some other site that provides more information?
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1g_I0oQEneO4fZDMnTTJiw/videos


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/6140#post_20686362


----------



## skilly

I used dream-seller and got a perfect monitor. Shipping got delayed because of a monsoon for 3 days but when it shipped it got to me in 4 business days(counting the holiday), they used fedex and it arrived in NC on a Tues, expected delivery date was Thurs so it arrived early and that Monday was Labor day.

And it definitely did not go back to S.K. from AK. I would call the courier asap.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> The main post is screwed up for me all of a sudden. I'm on a desktop and this is all it shows "The Korean PLS Monitor ClubQnix QX2710 & X-Star DP2710Warning!! This post is not mobile browser friendly. Optimal viewing of the information contained via "desktop" browsingNEW MEMBERSLEASE READ...".
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Same for me too. I don't know what happened. It was fine yesterday when I looked at it, and it says the last edit was on 8/27 (so nothing has changed immediately).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looking into this now. Stay tuned.
Click to expand...

big big big TY!


----------



## Semus

Just an FYI, I purchased one of these Korean monitors from Amazon and monitored the shipping from Korea. It said that my Monitor went from Korea to Kentucky and back to Korea all within the space of an hour. This is physically impossible. So, I am going to assume that there is an issue with the tracking service they use. I don't know why this is, but I would venture a guess that this is just an error with the tracking service. I wouldn't be alarmed if you see this happening.


----------



## R0th

Perhaps an addition to VAT/tax section:

Received the bill today from Fed Ex. Delivery in the Netherlands
VAT was 51.45 EUR (67 USD). Bought from AccessoiresWhole.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

The monitor I ordered is also at Ankorage AK. And its been shipped FedEx. So i hope I don't run into this issue. thank god I used my Amex card.


----------



## Arizonian

1st page back to normal.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> Just an FYI, I purchased one of these Korean monitors from Amazon and monitored the shipping from Korea. It said that my Monitor went from Korea to Kentucky and back to Korea all within the space of an hour. This is physically impossible. So, I am going to assume that there is an issue with the tracking service they use. I don't know why this is, but I would venture a guess that this is just an error with the tracking service. I wouldn't be alarmed if you see this happening.


Same with me. mine was in Kentucky, Alaska and Korea all within 3 hours. It was a mess


----------



## junkrok

So I've read a lot of people having to open their monitor to remove the clear plastic "leg" part of the stand. I just gave mine a good tug and it came right out. Not sure why that is my QNIX has that "feature".


----------



## Bold Eagle

subscribed for lot's of reading.


----------



## hutt132

The blue LED light on the bottom right randomly goes on and off and blinks sometimes while my monitor is on. I have it OCed to 120Hz and don't notice anything wrong except for that LED light. Does any one know what's up with it?


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> The blue LED light on the bottom right randomly goes on and off and blinks sometimes while my monitor is on. I have it OCed to 120Hz and don't notice anything wrong except for that LED light. Does any one know what's up with it?


Could have sworn it's suppose to stay lit blue but for me, it no longer does that and remains off. But if I turn it off, it'll shine red.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Could have sworn it's suppose to stay lit blue but for me, it no longer does that and remains off. But if I turn it off, it'll shine red.


Mine blinks blue when the monitor is off


----------



## Robertdt

I just went to Microcenter and took a look at a Dell 27" for 729 dollars, and a (not turned on but out on the shelf) LG Cinema Display for 999.00. Personally, the build quality and stands on these monitors in my view was not that much better than the QNIX QX2710 I have. The stands were a little better in design and height, but the quality of the frames of the monitors (plastic brushed metal, similar to part of the QNIX) was not noticeably better / much better ... also, the picture quality on the Dell was not as good as the QNIX IMO. This could be because of calibration, etc. But I was more pleased with my purchase after making this comparison.


----------



## Semus

The monitors on display at those stores are rarely calibrated. Also, Microcenter sells things at retail. I wouldn't purchase from them unless you are looking to get something super fast. I bought an HP 27xi from them and it was at least $40 more than what Amazon sells them for (shipping included). However, you do have the added benefit of a no hassles return policy within 30 days. Still, unless you are desperate, I wouldn't go with Microcenter. I know you weren't going there to buy anything, but I just wanted to throw that out there.

As a side note, the HP 27xi was a nice monitor (had to return mine) with an excellent on screen menu, but there was a noticeable shadowing on both sides of the monitor that I just couldn't deal with. Didn't feel like an exchange to see if it was just a bad one. Colors were awesome, though. Plus, it was 1080P and not 1440.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> So I've read a lot of people having to open their monitor to remove the clear plastic "leg" part of the stand. I just gave mine a good tug and it came right out. Not sure why that is my QNIX has that "feature".


Well we originally had reports that this was the case with X-Star not QNIX but then that was conflicted by others. Mine was definitely screwed in there with a metal plate too to provide actual support.


----------



## Robertdt

Hey, are you guys using the EDID Color Temperature setting (basically the monitor's specified setting according to Catalyst control panel) or the regular default? Which is likely to be better?


----------



## trippinonprozac

Hey guys,

Just got my Qnix setup last night and I am happy to say I had no dead or stuck pixels but did have quite a lot of backlight bleed. I followed an online tutorial on how to do the tape fix which has fixed the worst area of the bleed quite well. The problem is I now have this massive darker area at the bottom left hand corner of the screen (this area was previously fine).

I taped the entire thing to begin with but after noticing the dark area when I plugged it back in I decided to remove the tape from that area. Unfortunately this has not helped.

I REALLY hope someone could shed some light into what could cause this as I would trade the bleed I had before for this black area I have now.

photo attached -


----------



## trippinonprozac

Might I add, that picture probably makes it look a little worse than it is. Everything is totally visible in the bottom left, just dark.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Might I add, that picture probably makes it look a little worse than it is. Everything is totally visible in the bottom left, just dark.


That almost looks like something got screwed up with the backlight board... Check your connection to the backlight inverter board maybe? I remember reading somewhere that someone was able to test that problem by reversing the cable and making the dark spot appear on the other side of the monitor. I'll try and find that post but no guarantee. Also, are you at 60Hz with that darkness?


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> That almost looks like something got screwed up with the backlight board... Check your connection to the backlight inverter board maybe? I remember reading somewhere that someone was able to test that problem by reversing the cable and making the dark spot appear on the other side of the monitor. I'll try and find that post but no guarantee. Also, are you at 60Hz with that darkness?


This photo is @ 96hz but its the same at 60hz.

Like I said, it didnt come like this, it had no dark spot at all, just BLB.

Which plug is the backlight inverter?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> This photo is @ 96hz but its the same at 60hz.
> 
> Like I said, it didnt come like this, it had no dark spot at all, just BLB.
> 
> Which plug is the backlight inverter?


Here's the link I was talking about. He never described how he fixed the issue unfortunately... different monitor anyways.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/373645-33-backlight-bleeding-mura-effect-clouding

And after seeing the inverter board itself in this video, I don't think you'll be able to mess with the ribbon cables very much. See video 10:


----------



## trippinonprozac

Angry about this! Everything was done carefully and went back together fine. Really have no idea what would of caused this to happen. I have since taken it back apart 3 timems and checked things over and cant get the dark area to dissapear!

Hoping someone can shed some light (no pun intended) ;-)


----------



## billy5000

Hmm I'm not sure if I noticed this before, but my monitor seems to make a faint *popping* (or clicky) sound upon boot. Only on boot. Is this normal?


----------



## paulkon

Is it just me or do these displays start showing panel uniformity issues at ~120Hz near the top-right corner? My sincere apologies if this has been asked before.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Is it just me or do these displays start showing panel uniformity issue at ~120Hz near the top-right corner? My sincere apologies if this has been asked before.


My backlight was slightly dimmer in that corner but was only noticeable by eye above 96 Hz. Light meter showed it to be 10 percent dimmer at lower frequencies but I could not tell on my own.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Nazrule

The back light bleed on my Qnix that I received last week was bothering me a lot and seemed to get worse after a few days. I decided to try doing the tape mod to see if that would fix the issue. Everything was actually going really smooth until I placed the panel back into the metal frame that I had applied the tape to. It's a real tight fit and you have to kinda pop it back into place where each notch is. Anyways sadly a hairline crack appeared on the screen going from where I was getting the back light bleed on 1 side of the stand over to the other....

I guess the back light bleed could've been from stress points on the frame being to tight and applying the tape was too much for it to handle. Anyways lesson learned I guess. I know others have been able to apply the tape successfully and after looking through a bunch of forums I've also heard of people cracking their panels as well.


----------



## timaishu

Im very close to buying one of these qnix panels.

Does it really matter which ebay store I go through? There are several selling them for similar prices. I know the FAQ says pixel perfect isn't worth it, but has anyone here with a PP labeled panel actually get it PP?

Finally, is it safer to go through ebay/paypal, or should I go through a website like http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/default.asp ??


----------



## Nazrule

For the most part Back Light Bleed seems to be more of an issue than dead/stuck pixels and as far as I can tell none of the sellers guarantee no BLB or I would take a second chance at buying another 1.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Im very close to buying one of these qnix panels.
> 
> Does it really matter which ebay store I go through? There are several selling them for similar prices. I know the FAQ says pixel perfect isn't worth it, but has anyone here with a PP labeled panel actually get it PP?
> 
> Finally, is it safer to go through ebay/paypal, or should I go through a website like http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/default.asp ??


Yes. Accesorieswhole guarantees 0 dead pixels. I bought two from him and got 0 dead pixels.


----------



## tomKPZ

Rant coming.

I ordered an X-star from dream-seller on eBay on the 18th. It didn't ship until the 28th. However, when he did ship it, he used economy mail despite clearly stating "FREE EXPRESS SHIPPING" on the eBay listing. It finally arrived on the 3rd, in its stock box (no packaging or anything). The had a large hole in it, I hope to god from shipping. I open the box and can't use my monitor because there's no US power adapter. I go to the store to get one. Also there's a note in the box which says the monitor has been opened due to "testing", although someone probably just returned it. The monitor OCs to 120Hz, but has image burn, a dark spot when OCed, and 2 dead pixels (I blame dream-seller).
On the 3rd, I ordered a Qnix from accessorieswhole. Got the monitor on the 6th, and it has no problems.
dream-seller is a clown, don't order form him. I'm thinking of opening a complaint with eBay to get some of my money back because the item wasn't as described (no express shpiping) just to spite him.

End rant.

Otherwise, if anyone can help with image burn, I would appreciate it. I can live with dead pixels and a dark spot but the burn is pissing me off. It only happens when OCed and is only in the top right quadrant of the screen (where the dark spot is).


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Yes. Accesorieswhole guarantees 0 dead pixels. I bought two from him and got 0 dead pixels.


They guarantee the pixels but leave out any detail about Back Light Bleed for the Pixel Perfect option. This is from their reg option:

"Backlight Bleeding Policy for IPS Panel or PLS Panel

We cannot guarantee for no backlight bleed.
It may have some backlight bleed exist due to panel characteristics.
Even Apple Cinema Display do not guarantee and responsible for backlight bleed
and they also do not take return for that reason.
For same reasons, we also do not guarantee its backlight bleed as return matter.
However, we do inspect each monitors for its condition and do not sell any monitors with excessive backlight bleed.
In normal user circumstance it doesn't have any problem, but can be shown in dark circumstance."


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> Otherwise, if anyone can help with image burn, I would appreciate it. I can live with dead pixels and a dark spot but the burn is pissing me off. It only happens when OCed and is only in the top right quadrant of the screen (where the dark spot is).


Check just a few pages back for overclocking tips that were linked to and repeated over and over.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> It's no better without any calibration. It's actually worse apparently. Either way, the measurements don't change how the monitor actually looks. I've contacted ipsledmonitors for a RMA. I'll probably try another one and hopefully it'll be better.
> 
> Edit: Okay, I guess my request for an exchange was denied because of high demand. I can only return it for a refund.


I'm ordering a Qnix from accessorieswhole on Monday. I'll test the monitor myself and see what's up, if that helps. If you're sure that something is up with the monitor itself, then by all means return it.

Have you tried it on another PC, by the way? Also, what is the first visible black square in this test? Others, can you please compare to see what's up?


----------



## mudzi

Guys I just found this monitor and it is supposed to be overclockable to 125hz! http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-LED-27-2560x1440-HDMI-1-4-LG-S-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/121051875167?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c2f41075f

It also has HDMI and DVI-D outputs and still has 6ms. I think im gonna purchase this instead of Qnix just because the price is a lot less, they also have crossover monitor that costs 200dollars but I doubt that one is overclockable.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> Guys I just found this monitor and it is supposed to be overclockable to 125hz! http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-LED-27-2560x1440-HDMI-1-4-LG-S-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/121051875167?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c2f41075f
> 
> It also has HDMI and DVI-D outputs and still has 6ms. I think im gonna purchase this instead of Qnix just because the price is a lot less, they also have crossover monitor that costs 200dollars but I doubt that one is overclockable.


Well...check this thread out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> This monitor uses the same multi-input board as the Witech Multi Limited Edition, and a monitor pulled before release from Achieva Shimian, and one released by First Semiconductor (I have a prototype of it). The reason for that is the 125hz operation is bogus. The dvi controller board allows an input of up to 125hz. So your computer will say "Heya. I'm sending 125hz (or 130hz, in my case) to your monitor! All is well!". The monitor is saying "Oh sweet! A 125hz input! I can totally take that! Thank you!." Then it tries to pass it to the Timing controller attached to the LCD panel and the monitor is like "Hey...TCON...buddy, I got 125 of these frames for you. What??? What do you mean you can only accept 60 from me? Fine...I'll send you frame 1, 3, 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, etc...."
> 
> Basically...it frame skips. It will accept an input higher than 60hz. The OSD will tell you that it's outputting 125hz. But it only ever sends a 60hz signal to the LCD panel itself. Sorry to burst your bubble.
> 
> Edit: My comments are in regards to the 27" model. I don't have any info on the 30" monitor. It's very well possible that it hits 75hz.


Read more into it, be careful. Might have new models that can hit a native 125Hz, might not. If it comes like that out of the box, *doubt it*.


----------



## mudzi

Ah okey :/ Then I might just go the cheaper version of Crossover without 125hz, I have seen some comparisons between crossover and Qnix and qnix has had a lot more backlight bleeding.

But damn, if that monitor would truly be 125hz it would be amazing.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> Ah okey :/ Then I might just go the cheaper version of Crossover without 125hz, I have seen some comparisons between crossover and Qnix and qnix has had a lot more backlight bleeding.
> 
> But damn, if that monitor would truly be 125hz it would be amazing.


Backlight bleeding that can be fixed, that is. And not everyone has bad backlight bleeding in the first place. I'd venture to say that (almost?) everyone would benefit from the tape mod BLB fix since it seems to be a very common issue regarding the build of this monitor.

I don't think the cheaper CrossOver overclocks. If you're not interested in overclocking the monitor (aka running it at the higher refresh rates that it can *natively* do) then the CrossOver would work for you. However, PLS has a higher contrast ratio and there are differences between the two that you might be missing. Check out this review by our very own MenacingTuba for that.

Be warned that multi-input models of Korean monitors tend to have additional input latency, usually 1 frame vs. 5-7ms (check) @ 60Hz, IIRC.


----------



## Jinru

I managed to fix my backlight bleed by straightening the metal frame. The frame was curving inwards and pressing against the panel causing severe BLB. I couldn't take a before and after pic of my monitor since my phone couldn't do it justice. So I found the closest image resembling the level or BLB my monitor gave off.

The bottom portion of the BLB highlighted in red was how bad my monitor looked. The black area in the middle was where the peak of the curved frame was pinching the panel.

Here are some pics of the curved metal frame.



Here's how it looked after I massaged and worked the frame back into its correct shape. It's still not perfect. You can kinda see how the bottom part of the frame marked in red doesn't sit flush against the desk like the top does.


The result. BLB is a fraction of what it once was. I couldn't get rid of all of it since straightening the frame by hand proved difficult, but I can live with it now. I didn't try the Tape Mod since I didn't have any electrical tape at my disposal. I don't believe it would've made a difference in my case though.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> They guarantee the pixels but leave out any detail about Back Light Bleed for the Pixel Perfect option. This is from their reg option:
> 
> "Backlight Bleeding Policy for IPS Panel or PLS Panel
> 
> We cannot guarantee for no backlight bleed.
> It may have some backlight bleed exist due to panel characteristics.
> Even Apple Cinema Display do not guarantee and responsible for backlight bleed
> and they also do not take return for that reason.
> For same reasons, we also do not guarantee its backlight bleed as return matter.
> However, we do inspect each monitors for its condition and do not sell any monitors with excessive backlight bleed.
> In normal user circumstance it doesn't have any problem, but can be shown in dark circumstance."


There isn't going to be a single person that is going to guarantee for BLB. These are B stock panels after all, there is going to be something wrong with them compared to A stock.

Minimal BLB is a lot less noticeable than dead pixels.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> There isn't going to be a single person that is going to guarantee for BLB. These are B stock panels after all, there is going to be something wrong with them compared to A stock.
> 
> Minimal BLB is a lot less noticeable than dead pixels.


These are A or A- panels not B rated panels. I guess metaphorically you could say the "A" stock is in the store where the "B" stock is on korean ebay sellers page but i do see people who know panel binning terminology and taking it literally which would end up being mis-information. BLB can be fixed and it is no harder than fixing a screen door by dis-assembly. Not only that we have videos spelling it out and dozens of posts that spell it out for people. This is almost just as predominant in some main stream monitors(Asus). This is something people should be well read on and expecting when purchasing a korean panel. Some get really lucky most don't FIX IT!


----------



## shw89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> Rant coming.
> 
> I ordered an X-star from dream-seller on eBay on the 18th. It didn't ship until the 28th. However, when he did ship it, he used economy mail despite clearly stating "FREE EXPRESS SHIPPING" on the eBay listing. It finally arrived on the 3rd, in its stock box (no packaging or anything). The had a large hole in it, I hope to god from shipping. I open the box and can't use my monitor because there's no US power adapter. I go to the store to get one. Also there's a note in the box which says the monitor has been opened due to "testing", although someone probably just returned it. The monitor OCs to 120Hz, but has image burn, a dark spot when OCed, and 2 dead pixels (I blame dream-seller).
> On the 3rd, I ordered a Qnix from accessorieswhole. Got the monitor on the 6th, and it has no problems.
> dream-seller is a clown, don't order form him. I'm thinking of opening a complaint with eBay to get some of my money back because the item wasn't as described (no express shpiping) just to spite him.
> 
> End rant.
> 
> Otherwise, if anyone can help with image burn, I would appreciate it. I can live with dead pixels and a dark spot but the burn is pissing me off. It only happens when OCed and is only in the top right quadrant of the screen (where the dark spot is).


That blows.. i ordered from dreamseller an xstar monitor... i hope im one of the lucky ones who got a good mmonitor!!


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinru*
> 
> I managed to fix my backlight bleed by straightening the metal frame. The frame was curving inwards and pressing against the panel causing severe BLB. I couldn't take a before and after pic of my monitor since my phone couldn't do it justice. So I found the closest image resembling the level or BLB my monitor gave off.
> 
> The bottom portion of the BLB highlighted in red was how bad my monitor looked. The black area in the middle was where the peak of the curved frame was pinching the panel.
> 
> The result. BLB is a fraction of what it once was. I couldn't get rid of all of it since straightening the frame by hand proved difficult, but I can live with it now. I didn't try the Tape Mod since I didn't have any electrical tape at my disposal. I don't believe it would've made a difference in my case though.


Man you should've gotten some electrical tape before you opened it up








Removing the bezel and frame are a PITA.
I had a bent frame aswell, not as bad as you though. Also evened it out but also added electrical tape.
Fixed the BLB that annoyed me the most on dark backgrounds/movie watching.









Here's a little before and after:


----------



## Xentar712

So does anyone with a glossy panel not have a glass panel on top? I'm seeing more "tempered glass" listings from sellers that also have a glossy listing. I ordered glossy and it had glass so I just want to make sure they are the same if I order a second one.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> So does anyone with a glossy panel not have a glass panel on top? I'm seeing more "tempered glass" listings from sellers that also have a glossy listing. I ordered glossy and it had glass so I just want to make sure they are the same if I order a second one.


I got a glossy panel from Bigclothcraft and it dose not have a tempered glass panel.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> So does anyone with a glossy panel not have a glass panel on top? I'm seeing more "tempered glass" listings from sellers that also have a glossy listing. I ordered glossy and it had glass so I just want to make sure they are the same if I order a second one.


My glossy QNIX from green-sum did not come with a glass panel. I would assume they sent you the wrong one.


----------



## billy5000

Can anybody else detect a faint *clicking* sound right before bios and again sometime during the OS loads? That's the only times that happens, but I'm not sure why.


----------



## timaishu

Man, I cant decide. The X-star is on sale from dreamseller for 279 or 309 for a PP panel. For 50-20 bucks more I can get it from ipsledmonitors.com that also has a guarantee of free return shipping if there is a problem and I can return no questions asked. Man I cannot decide as a lot of people here seem to have issues with dreamseller..


----------



## shw89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Man, I cant decide. The X-star is on sale from dreamseller for 279 or 309 for a PP panel. For 50-20 bucks more I can get it from ipsledmonitors.com that also has a guarantee of free return shipping if there is a problem and I can return no questions asked. Man I cannot decide as a lot of people here seem to have issues with dreamseller..


If you're patient and not ordering till Monday/Tuesday i'll do a follow up review with the monitor I bought from dreamseller on the xstar.


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Man, I cant decide. The X-star is on sale from dreamseller for 279 or 309 for a PP panel. For 50-20 bucks more I can get it from ipsledmonitors.com that also has a guarantee of free return shipping if there is a problem and I can return no questions asked. Man I cannot decide as a lot of people here seem to have issues with dreamseller..


Doesn't really matter where you buy it, it could have BLB and stuck or dead pixels from any seller. Don't buy PP!
And defective screens are pretty rare.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Doesn't really matter where you buy it, it could have BLB and stuck or dead pixels from any seller. Don't buy PP!
> And defective screens are pretty rare.


I know that, but it seems I could return it on those grounds to the ipsledmonitors website, not the case for dreamseller.


----------



## Net200777

I fixed my BLB pretty easily without the tape mod, I just used paper.


----------



## geoxile

I'm still undecided on whether to return my monitor. I think I'm getting a bit used to it, it doesn't look quite as noticeable on colors now, but blacks still look like they have a weird metal sheen over them.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hey, are you guys using the EDID Color Temperature setting (basically the monitor's specified setting according to Catalyst control panel) or the regular default? Which is likely to be better?


Any thoughts on this? Just curious about what you guys are using and what is likely to give better picture quality.


----------



## Net200777

I wouldn't put up with it, but that's just me.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I got a glossy panel from Bigclothcraft and it dose not have a tempered glass panel.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> My glossy QNIX from green-sum did not come with a glass panel. I would assume they sent you the wrong one.


Thanks, I was afraid of that. Mine is sent back already because of a defect so I'll have to remind the seller to send me the correct one this time. All this time I was wondering how people were saying they could press the dark spots on their screen to change the BLB.


----------



## jlw777

110 hz stable (3 days now) without tuning down timing in CRU. Waiting for a 24 awg cable to see whether 120 hz attainable without artifact

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Thanks, I was afraid of that. Mine is sent back already because of a defect so I'll have to remind the seller to send me the correct one this time. All this time I was wondering how people were saying they could press the dark spots on their screen to change the BLB.


Pressing on the dark spots can relieve BLB (slightly,) but it's not the end all be all; you'd want to bend the metal frame flat and potentially do the tap mod to really reduce it significantly. If you're going to press against it, do it lightly using a microfiber cloth, you don't want break anything.


----------



## sLaYDeMOn

i want the crossover black tune casing/glass plasma coating with the qnix panel/pcb.







if only the crossover's overclocked...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sLaYDeMOn*
> 
> i want the crossover black tune casing/glass plasma coating with the qnix panel/pcb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if only the crossover's overclocked...


Get an Overlord PCB?


----------



## timaishu

I have been emailing ipsledmonitors.com and while asking about the difference in labeled refresh rates between Qnix and X-Star, they said this:
Quote:


> The X-star DP2710 and QNIX QX2710 are made by the same manufacturer. While the manufacturer provides a different response rate spec for these two monitors, it is likely due to inconsistent methodology. Often GtoG response time measurements are inaccurate so the 2ms delta is within the margin of error.
> 
> Also, the manufacturer has indicated that it may stop producing it's X-star brand, we will likely only stock the QNIX QX2710 going forward.


----------



## sLaYDeMOn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Get an Overlord PCB?


$200


----------



## WOD35

I've had my finger on the trigger for a matte qnix for a while now, but am now considering a 29" 2560x1080 LG for $450... for increased horizontal field of view in games..... but not sure if it's worth the increased price or decreased overall res outside of games?? Plus I've been reading about 2560x1080's "internal bezel" which sounds right ghastly??

Is there a 2560x1080 monitors thread?


----------



## ColdFlo

So you guys just meant the internal panel metal frame "bezel" part to be rolled. Ok see I thought you guys meant the tray part removing all those internal light diffuser plastic sheets which would introduce allot of dust via static attraction when you disassembled the panel in the internal lighted portion where you wouldn't want to even have to clean anything introducing defects and streaks let alone introduce dust inbetween these sheets where it would be visible and impossible to clean. Ok I think I'll try that again next time I go internal. See all the answers we need to fix these panels are simple its just a matter of nailing down the process to do the fix while disrupting(or breaking) the panel as little as possible. Even voltmods are simple its just a matter of knowing the steps. Penciling resistors is even easier. It may not be completely necessary but I would still like to have an EDID modeled or copied from the ASUS PB278Q(maybe we need to find someone with one of these panels and get them to give us their EDID info from a reader prog).

Just ordered some DIY audio grade wire(some nice solder, connectors, wiring harni; gonna do a total interal pc wiring functional upgrade short of the PSU) and got a cheap Razer Taipan(40 bucks new in box) off ebay so I have some hardware modding to do in the near future. Still need some multicore silver wire to make my own sata cables. My huge copper shims should be in soon to make some heatsinks with those Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q inverter chips on the back of the internal panel assembly using the back metal cover as the heatsink coupled to the chips via copper shims I got the big 42mm ones off ebay and I ordered 6 to make sure I got the proper height(most likely overkill but considering the price this monitor cost and what its worth(over 1000 dollars easily)). Thats another thing to remember if these monitors were sold in the USA they would be over 1000 dollars retail easily maybe even 1500 for the 110hz or higher(not to mention PLS is a newer technology even than IPS). Who cares about the case and bezel it doesnt matter and really the QNIX pcb is really not all that bad either. HDMI is crap(does it have HDMI from slickdeals is a feature for fools). I had these debates when HDMI came out and I took the stance that Patrick Norton and others did that HDMI was inferior(inferior resolution especially on introduction fewer conductors and audio on the same cable). 125hz Crossover is a development. I bet Shimian and Crossover are now all going to follow the lead.

I am convinced that the reason for this recent jump in resolution and really who we have to thank for all this technology is RED Camera and their introduction of cheap 4k necessitating asia to release 4k(ahead of the schedule the MPAA wants which is the reason the United States lagged behind Japan for what 30 or 40 years with HD technology; I hope this time Hollywood and TV are dragged along to conform and resolution just continually increases until we have the wall sized panels from Total Recall Original Arnold Version) which is Quad Full HD or Ultra HD, causing the release of Wide Quad HD(2560x1440)(2560x1600 resolution is worthless 16:10 is an inferior aspect ratio(bigger black bars on movies or when zoomed into to fit aspect ratio frame lower overall horizontal section(resolution) of the frame displayed also a lower FOV in games) and the extra pixels only weigh down the gpu even more) which is perfect for us and the current state of graphics card processing power. Now OLED is introduced, 4K laser projectors from both RED and LG and more than likely SONY, Panasonic is retooling their entire line for 3d 4k OLED printing to maintain panel dominance(now that Kuro and infinite black technology(only introduced on a few prototype panels from the release Kuro line) is out of the picture and really must be displaced by OLED now but I have yet to read comparisons or see pics) setting the stage for the next jump in panel technology making these WQHD the perfect stepping stones until that time comes.


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> So you guys just meant the internal panel metal frame "bezel" part to be rolled. Ok see I thought you guys meant the tray part removing all those internal light diffuser plastic sheets which would introduce allot of dust via static attraction when you disassembled the panel in the internal lighted portion where you wouldn't want to even have to clean anything introducing defects and streaks let alone introduce dust inbetween these sheets where it would be visible and impossible to clean. Ok I think I'll try that again next time I go internal. See all the answers we need to fix these panels are simple its just a matter of nailing down the process to do the fix while disrupting(or breaking) the panel as little as possible. Even voltmods are simple its just a matter of knowing the steps. Penciling resistors is even easier. It may not be completely necessary but I would still like to have an EDID modeled or copied from the ASUS PB278Q(maybe we need to find someone with one of these panels and get them to give us their EDID info from a reader prog).
> 
> Just ordered some DIY audio grade wire(some nice solder, connectors, wiring harni; gonna do a total interal pc wiring functional upgrade short of the PSU) and got a cheap Razer Taipan(40 bucks new in box) off ebay so I have some hardware modding to do in the near future. Still need some multicore silver wire to make my own sata cables. My huge copper shims should be in soon to make some heatsinks with those Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q inverter chips on the back of the internal panel assembly using the back metal cover as the heatsink coupled to the chips via copper shims I got the big 42mm ones off ebay and I ordered 6 to make sure I got the proper height(most likely overkill but considering the price this monitor cost and what its worth(over 1000 dollars easily)). Thats another thing to remember if these monitors were sold in the USA they would be over 1000 dollars retail easily maybe even 1500 for the 110hz or higher. Who cares about the case and bezel it doesnt matter and really the QNIX pcb is really not all that bad either. HDMI is crap(does it have HDMI from slickdeals is a feature for fools). I had these debates when HDMI came out and I took the stance that Patrick Norton and others did that HDMI was inferior(inferior resolution especially on introduction fewer conductors and audio on the same cable). 125hz Crossover is a development. I bet Shimian and Crossover are now all going to follow the lead.
> 
> I am convinced that the reason for this recent jump in resolution and really who we have to thank for all this technology is RED Camera and their introduction of cheap 4k necessitating asia to release 4k(ahead of the schedule the MPAA wants which is the reason the United States lagged behind Japan for what 30 or 40 years with HD technology; I hope this time Hollywood and TV are dragged along to conform and resolution just continually increases until we have the wall sized panels from The Running Man) which is Quad Full HD or Ultra HD, causing the release of Wide Quad HD(2560x1440)(2560x1600 resolution is worthless 16:10 is an inferior aspect ratio and the extra pixels only weigh down the gpu even more) which is perfect for us and the current state of graphics card processing power. Now OLED is introduced, 4K laser projectors from both RED and LG and more than likely SONY, Panasonic is retooling their entire line for 3d 4k OLED printing to maintain panel dominance(now that Kuro and infinite black technology(only introduced on a few prototype panels from the release Kuro line) is out of the picture and really must be displaced by OLED now but I have yet to read comparisons or see pics) setting the stage for the next jump in panel technology making these WQHD the perfect stepping stones until that time comes.


And it's for that reason we should stay tuned for a 4k 120hz variant of something like the Qnix from over there.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Just got my Qnix setup last night and I am happy to say I had no dead or stuck pixels but did have quite a lot of backlight bleed. I followed an online tutorial on how to do the tape fix which has fixed the worst area of the bleed quite well. The problem is I now have this massive darker area at the bottom left hand corner of the screen (this area was previously fine).
> 
> I taped the entire thing to begin with but after noticing the dark area when I plugged it back in I decided to remove the tape from that area. Unfortunately this has not helped.
> 
> I REALLY hope someone could shed some light into what could cause this as I would trade the bleed I had before for this black area I have now.
> 
> photo attached -


Can anyone shed some light on what could of possibly caused the issue I am having?

I really want to get this fixed


----------



## tomKPZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Check just a few pages back for overclocking tips that were linked to and repeated over and over.


I can't find it








Can you point me in the right direction?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> And it's for that reason we should stay tuned for a 4k 120hz variant of something like the Qnix from over there.


Due to bandwidth limitations this is going to take a while. Not so much for 60hz but anything higher WILL hit a wall with cabling bandwidth among many other bottlenecks. [email protected] would also be very hard to maintain even with today's most pricy GPUs even for older games due to [email protected] being just over double the processing data as 1440p([email protected] being just over equal to [email protected]). There are a lot of new products that will make it possible though(HDMI 2.0, SSDs, Maxwell series GPUs, etc) but they are just not here yet. Even a Titan GPU can have problems rendering some games at 1440p and maintaining 120fps(much less 241hz for people who like to frame double to reduce input lag to visual association). Until GPUs and other hardware get to a point that i can double my framerate per my refresh at 1440p i will likely stay put. Also many 4K variants so far do not offer the color reproduction benefits of PLS and IPS displays. This is what makes the Qnix such a future proof display. It is just going to be a long time before anything over 1440p will catch up in specs and more importantly *price*.

EDIT: This is why if a [email protected] will likely not show up for a while until other factors of hardware catch up to be able to support it (Display ports might be able to do just over 60hz depending on the PCB and controller board).


----------



## ColdFlo

Yeah resolution is the real killer in games. I think it will take even longer than 4 years for GPUs to get on that level(unless AMD really does pull 4000 cores here in a couple months but I doubt it(this will be the big thing to pay attention to read the release rumors and try to get the one that sounds realistic so you can sell cards and upgrade if you think the new ATI is the solid leader by my calculations the ATI will need at least 3000 cores to beat the 780). 2560x1080 is interesting(but what is the refresh rate usually retail monitors are locked to 60hz) not sure if 1080 is enough vertical resolution for sitting close but I really do like a wide aspect ratio. I can't wait till displays are the same aspect ratio as movies really instead of 4096 or 3840 x 2160(4K,WQFHD,UHD) I would like to see more horizontal resolution and less vertical(6144x1440? No dummy(me) lets use math!, 4096x2160=8847360 almost 9MPixel; 2.4x * x = 8847360; 8847360/2.4 = 3686400 take square root =s 1920 =s 4608x1920 seems like the perfect resolution for movies); the difference between 1440 and 2160 would probably be minimal on a computer monitor but for a big 80 inch TV it would be a big difference in pixel cohesion.

Spartan is also right cables are a limitation, pixel clock chips are a limitation, GPUs are a limitation. My God CRT was not at all limited by the CRT technology but the internal digital boards. Really someone needs to just start designing highly over specd GHZ level display chips. Its ridiculous to think these display chips are so slow yet the one in your smartphone is much faster.

trippinonprozac go back a few pages there are pics on how to fix the internal panel frame bezel couple that with the breakdown youtube videos from Datsch in the first post and pictures and listen to his electric tape fix as well. Your problem is called Back Light Bleed(BLB) its because your LCD panel(that actual layer) is off angle allowing light to come through at an improper angle to the polarizing film that is supposed to act in concert to block the light(or on a white google search home page the effect is reversed). The metal frame of the internal panel is bent you will have to open up the panel and fix the frame to get your LCD film layer to lie perfectly flat fixing your light bleed problem. Also show us a black screen so we can see if its bent because you have a white screen there it could also be that internal led edge lighting strip has some dead leds on one side(tho we have never seen a pic of this so its impossible to be sure you would think the diffusers would still distribute the light better than that even with some dead leds.).


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Can anyone shed some light on what could of possibly caused the issue I am having?
> 
> I really want to get this fixed


Have you taken the bezel off yet? Either take it apart to try to find the cause or rma it. Amazon has an a to z claim department, can't go wrong there.


----------



## Kokin

Question: If buying from Ebay or Amazon, do you have to pay customs or is it all provided within their prices? I'm planning on getting one of these once my 2 IPS monitors sell and I'd like to know if I need a higher budget from the ~$300 price.


----------



## Net200777

I paid 300$ shipped, it arrived in one day.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> Have you taken the bezel off yet? Either take it apart to try to find the cause or rma it. Amazon has an a to z claim department, can't go wrong there.


You must not of read the original post...

I removed the bezel to fix some backlight bleed and thats when this happened. The monitor did not have the dark spot when I first got it. Something I did must of caused it.

It was bought from Korea too, not Amazon.


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> You must not of read the original post...
> 
> I removed the bezel to fix some backlight bleed and thats when this happened. The monitor did not have the dark spot when I first got it. Something I did must of caused it.
> 
> It was bought from Korea too, not Amazon.


Hmmm well if you can't fix it rma it.


----------



## UrbanToast

Ok so I've gotten my monitor to overclock stable at 120hz at 489.60Mhz pixel clock. I'm sill slowly messing with the total pixels to rid the monitor of scan lines. but no matter what setting i have CRU at my top right corner of the monitor is still slightly darker than the rest of the monitor. What setting should i adjust to try and fix this?


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> I'm still undecided on whether to return my monitor. I think I'm getting a bit used to it, it doesn't look quite as noticeable on colors now, but blacks still look like they have a weird metal sheen over them.


I don't think anyone here is really certain on what you are seeing. The way you describe sounds like PLS glow, which is normal. I haven't heard of it being better or worse between monitors, only backlight bleed which should be in isolated regions. Like i mentioned most people here are checking for pixels and backlight bleed, not PLS glow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> Hmmm well if you can't fix it rma it.


What? He opened his monitor and damaged the backlighting element. Now he should be able to RMA it? No wonder these ebay sellers don't accept returns


----------



## ColdFlo

Well if a destructive event occurred like opening up the panel and working on it then maybe the led strip on the left hand side has a short in it and the leds aren't being lit up on the left. Did you try a black screen are you getting white in that area or is it still black when you load up an all black screen? If its still black it looks like you have dead led edge lighting strip/short along the edge led lighting strip/traces most likely from a pcb inside in the panel you broke. Its always good to troubleshoot based on what you know has happened to the panel. If it was fine before you opened it and then you open it and put it back together then its possible you broke something. First time we have seen this. I was thinking it was typical BackLight Bleed in reverse due to a polarizing effect from a bent internal panel frame. Now I'm thinking its dead LED lighting strip PCB. Looks like time to try a return or something. I don't know maybe theres more to it you have to figure it out. I've been looking into modding the LED light strip and it isn't as easy as it looks. You have to get the exact right LEDS light, power, heat, the ones we have in ours are small flat SMT type leds on a strip something like this 



 http://www.amazon.com/Ub54255led6420x2-Replacement-Industrial-Originally-Compatible/dp/B006M53OBO which is a ripoff or this 



. Or if you want to take the genius route http://www.mp3car.com/lcd-display/43743-800x1280-narrowscreen-8.html; wrong color, wrong output, wrong heat(equally stupid overclocker watercooling to boot), and after he spent over 500 in water cooler raw materials alone and with LEDS the whole thing over 1000 dollars he gets a yellow washed out gunnar optics urine screen. Sourcing the LED strips is not easy unless you work in that industry.

http://overlordcomputer.com/products/overlord-pcb-set

This board looks exactly like internal QNIX/X-Star Board and even has the same Pixel Clock DVI Signal chip the EXPLORE(Same logo) must be EP269(only DVI chip they make according to their site). So it must be functionally the same if not identical. I need to open up the panel and take some high resolution pics of all the boards and internals so we can have them for reference at such a high res and in focus so all components can be read easily 24 MPixel would be nice. Still that board is overpriced no way those components cost 200 dollars tho mass producing those boards I'm sure cost a pretty penny I don't know if it justifies that kind of markup. Did QNIX(HyoSung? HYO manufacturer from EDID Use EDID manager free download to read EDID info) copy overlord or did overlord buy some cheap asian boards and are now selling them here in the west for ripoff prices? They mention a TCON board is also included which is different from the Inverter board attached to the back of the panel is it apart of the same overlord PCB or a separate part not pictured? Would be nice to have a Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG/2755AMG or ACHIEVA Shimian QH2700 Lite Edge Bezel tho the silvery metallic at the bottom of the Crossover would be distracting(looks cooler overall but would be distracting as hell watching movies) and the Shimian while it has a nice bezel I don't like either of the stands. I wonder if Black Tune means better black level. Still the cost of these monitors plus the board would put you around 600 bucks(not sure if just a bezel alone is worth double the price). I like the color scheme of LG IPS more the Sky Baby Blues and Orangy Reds but I don't think it works with LCD contrast ratio(but it looks nice and sunny and bright and more real on CRT contrast ratio higher contrast ratio means more of an ability to recreate a high dynamic range effect like in video games) to me it comes off looking washed out and cartoony because of IPS' lesser black level of course I haven't seen them side by side I'm just going off instore comparisons I have seen between all the major brands(LG,Samsung,Sony,Panasonic,Vizio) which seem to hold true across the entire lines.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.Xcrossover+ips&_nkw=crossover+ips&_sacat=0&_from=R40

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=crossover+ips&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.Xshimian&_nkw=shimian&_sacat=0

Seems like both Shimian and Crossover have 2560x1080 variants which look to be brand new. I still dont think 1080 vertical resolution is enough for the pixels to disappear tho the lower GPU load plus higher FOV console tweak would be nice(which allows the tris to be pushed further from the foreground making them smaller decreasing overall graphics load increasing the speed of ingame movements and greatly improves strafe jumping(if allowed by game physics)) to improve overall awareness. Also this would eliminate black bars in movies but would add them to HD aspect TV show content like Breaking Bad and Dexter while it is possible to crop the sides of movies if you crop the top and bottom off HD content you end up with chopped off heads. They are a little pricey coming in at under 500 but at 29" its 698x402x160mm compared to 654mm x 491mm x 160mm for the 27" 2560x1440 Shimian roughly the same size the 1080 is 4/5s the height but an extra 14th the length 1.067278 so its smaller. I bet the Overlord PCB can be adapted to these as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crossover-290HD-IPS-LED-Panorama-29-21-9-Wide-2560x1080-HDMI-1-4a-PC-Monitor-/321141420686?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac585328e

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Achieva-Shimian-FH2900-IPSMS-EDGE-29-Wide-Monitor-LED-LG-S-IPS-2560x1080-HDMI-/231032352927?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item35ca99f09f

Also trying to find some info on these internal panel DVI looking cables. Are those FPD-Link III cables? Tried to google up some pics but found nothing. Would really like to be able to source those parts if I had to or at least look up some specifications so I can make some of my own(they felt very fine not sure I want to attempt it).






Looks like the TCON is the lower board and the inverter boards are the skinny boards on the very edge of the display on the back the one that attachs to the mainboard pixel clock board is the TCON board underneath the metal cover on the back of the display. For some reason the overlord(which states in the comments its the exact copy of the Catleap 2B board) only has one chip while ours have 2 of the Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q Chips. He also states the overlord has OSD so maybe its a little nicer than ours.


----------



## tingc222

Hi guys,

I've been looking into getting this monitor..but just to be sure: is this the one to get (I prefer pixel perfect)?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa

Any differences from the QNIX version at all?

Thanks!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> Well if a destructive event occurred like opening up the panel and working on it then maybe the led strip on the left hand side has a short in it and the leds aren't being lit up on the left. Did you try a black screen are you getting white in that area or is it still black when you load up an all black screen? If its still black it looks like you have dead led edge lighting strip/short along the edge led lighting strip/traces most likely from a pcb inside in the panel you broke. Its always good to troubleshoot based on what you know has happened to the panel. If it was fine before you opened it and then you open it and put it back together then its possible you broke something. First time we have seen this. I was thinking it was typical BackLight Bleed in reverse due to a polarizing effect from a bent internal panel frame. Now I'm thinking its dead LED lighting strip PCB. Looks like time to try a return or something. I don't know maybe theres more to it you have to figure it out.
> 
> http://overlordcomputer.com/products/overlord-pcb-set
> 
> This board looks exactly like internal QNIX/X-Star Board and even has the same Pixel Clock DVI Signal chip the EXPLORE(Same logo) must be EP269(only DVI chip they make according to their site). So it must be functionally the same if not identical. I need to open up the panel and take some high resolution pics of all the boards and internals so we can have them for reference at such a high res and in focus so all components can be read easily 24 MPixel would be nice. Still that board is overpriced no way those components cost 200 dollars tho mass producing those boards I'm sure cost a pretty penny I don't know if it justifies that kind of markup. Did QNIX(HyoSung? HYO manufacturer from EDID Use EDID manager free download to read EDID info) copy overlord or did overlord buy some cheap asian boards and are now selling them here in the west for ripoff prices? They mention a TCON board is also included which is different from the Inverter board attached to the back of the panel is it apart of the same overlord PCB or a separate part not pictured? Would be nice to have a Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG/2755AMG or ACHIEVA Shimian QH2700 Lite Edge Bezel tho the silvery metallic at the bottom of the Crossover would be distracting(looks cooler overall but would be distracting as hell watching movies) and the Shimian while it has a nice bezel I don't like either of the stands. I wonder if Black Tune means better black level. Still the cost of these monitors plus the board would put you around 600 bucks(not sure if just a bezel alone is worth double the price). I like the color scheme of LG IPS more the Sky Baby Blues and Orangy Reds but I don't think it works with LCD contrast ratio(but it looks nice and sunny and bright and more real on CRT contrast ratio higher contrast ratio means more of an ability to recreate a high dynamic range effect like in video games) to me it comes off looking washed out and cartoony because of IPS' lesser black level of course I haven't seen them side by side I'm just going off instore comparisons I have seen between all the major brands(LG,Samsung,Sony,Panasonic,Vizio) which seem to hold true across the entire lines.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.Xcrossover+ips&_nkw=crossover+ips&_sacat=0&_from=R40
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=crossover+ips&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.Xshimian&_nkw=shimian&_sacat=0
> 
> Seems like both Shimian and Crossover have 2560x1080 variants which look to be brand new. I still dont think 1080 vertical resolution is enough for the pixels to disappear tho the lower GPU load plus higher FOV console tweak would be nice(which allows the tris to be pushed further from the foreground making them smaller decreasing overall graphics load increasing the speed of ingame movements and greatly improves strafe jumping(if allowed by game physics)) to improve overall awareness. Also this would eliminate black bars in movies but would add them to HD aspect TV show content like Breaking Bad and Dexter while it is possible to crop the sides of movies if you crop the top and bottom off HD content you end up with chopped off heads. They are a little pricey coming in at under 500 but at 29" its 698x402x160mm compared to 654mm x 491mm x 160mm for the 27" 2560x1440 Shimian roughly the same size the 1080 is 4/5s the height but an extra 14th the length 1.067278 so its smaller. I bet the Overlord PCB can be adapted to these as well.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crossover-290HD-IPS-LED-Panorama-29-21-9-Wide-2560x1080-HDMI-1-4a-PC-Monitor-/321141420686?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac585328e
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Achieva-Shimian-FH2900-IPSMS-EDGE-29-Wide-Monitor-LED-LG-S-IPS-2560x1080-HDMI-/231032352927?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item35ca99f09f
> 
> Also trying to find some info on these internal panel DVI looking cables. Are those FPD-Link III cables? Tried to google up some pics but found nothing. Would really like to be able to source those parts if I had to or at least look up some specifications so I can make some of my own(they felt very fine not sure I want to attempt it).


Your point about the PCB is very interesting. If it can be proven that the board in the qnix is identicle to the one overlord is selling it is going to be pretty bad (as the Qnix is only 100 bucks more and the board is likely a non impactive price point meaning it is likely less than 25). I honestly expected the 2560x1080 variants to emerge at some point but i can say i am a bit dissappointed regarding the price(almost 200 more for less when compared to our monitor mostly). Playing widescreen movies with a more appropriate aspect ratio would be nice but as you said this would not be ideal for standard content(unless you are working on half and watching on half).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tingc222*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've been looking into getting this monitor..but just to be sure: is this the one to get (I prefer pixel perfect)?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa
> 
> Any differences from the QNIX version at all?
> 
> Thanks!


Yeah that is fine. The only thing to look for is there is multiport models now but they will generally have DP in the model indicating they have a display port plus whatever other port. If you want extra ports that is fine but single port displays seem to have a better OC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanToast*
> 
> Ok so I've gotten my monitor to overclock stable at 120hz at 489.60Mhz pixel clock. I'm sill slowly messing with the total pixels to rid the monitor of scan lines. but no matter what setting i have CRU at my top right corner of the monitor is still slightly darker than the rest of the monitor. What setting should i adjust to try and fix this?


Keep working to push the pixel clock down. This will help uniformity. Also try a bit higher brightness. I also found the quality of the cable obviously makes an impact as it is correlated to the pixel clock size.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Question: If buying from Ebay or Amazon, do you have to pay customs or is it all provided within their prices? I'm planning on getting one of these once my 2 IPS monitors sell and I'd like to know if I need a higher budget from the ~$300 price.


This is going to be more dependent on your location rather than the seller. Many in the US have not had to pay customs(except for like California and other states with laws regarding online/oversees purchases)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sLaYDeMOn*
> 
> $200


If you can find a EP269 board for sale directly i would think it is going to be worlds cheaper than overlord and per that last post by ColdFlo could be the same. I have not had much luck finding it yet but duplicated efforts may help our cause


----------



## tingc222

Thanks Spartan! Ordered.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tingc222*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've been looking into getting this monitor..but just to be sure: is this the one to get (I prefer pixel perfect)?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa
> 
> Any differences from the QNIX version at all?
> 
> Thanks!


Watch out for the pixel perfect policies; most of them are not accurate. They allow for, let's say, 1 dead pixel in the center and 3 dead pixels in the surrounding areas. Of course, policies differ between the sellers, but up till now, the best (true) pixel perfect policy I've found is at accessorieswhole. These guys actually understand the difference between stuck and dead pixels and inspect the monitors using different color backgrounds, not only black and white. They offer ZERO dead and stuck pixels. They are the most expensive of the bunch, but they are very highly rated and their customer support seems good.

*@Spartan F8*: I think we should ask the sellers where they get their replacement PCBs from. There were a few incidents where they shipped replacement PCBs to customers who had certain issues. Anybody asked any seller for a replacement PCB and got lucky to buy one (or at least receive a price or know where to buy it from)?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> *@Spartan F8*: I think we should ask the sellers where they get their replacement PCBs from. There were a few incidents where they shipped replacement PCBs to customers who had certain issues. Anybody asked any seller for a replacement PCB and got lucky to buy one (or at least receive a price or know where to buy it from)?


That would be good to know but even if you google "EP269 450mhz" you find a few data sheets and mostly our postings on various sites. My best guess would be these guys mainly because all other relevant links juts about always link back to them: http://www.epmi.com.tw/sayapro03.php?id=93

And this is a neat little data sheet i found on it(sort of) http://www.ineltek.com/ru/files/Explore_company_profile_2010_10.pdf

As far as purchasing it appears to be bulk ordering only from what they told me on the phone(or tried to tell me as they had very broken English). This is not feasible even with a group buy as it would not fit the quantity(unless you are overlord *maybe not confirmed yet*).


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Mine blinks blue when the monitor is off


I think that is standby... If you hit the power button does it turn red and stay off?

What do you most of you guys do with the X-star after shutting down your pc? Do you let the monitor stay in standby mode and blink blue or turn it off with the button?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> I think that is standby... If you hit the power button does it turn red and stay off?
> 
> What do you most of you guys do with the X-star after shutting down your pc? Do you let the monitor stay in standby mode and blink blue or turn it off with the button?


I've covered mine with electrical tape


----------



## rusky1

Haven't been able to OC my monitor any higher than 70hz without getting intermittent horizontal lines on my screen whenever I would move windows. Is there anything specific you guys do? I have a feeling that it has something to do with my video card (5850) or drivers (13.4).


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Due to bandwidth limitations this is going to take a while. Not so much for 60hz but anything higher WILL hit a wall with cabling bandwidth among many other bottlenecks. [email protected] would also be very hard to maintain even with today's most pricy GPUs even for older games due to [email protected] being just over double the processing data as 1440p([email protected] being just over equal to [email protected]). There are a lot of new products that will make it possible though(HDMI 2.0, SSDs, Maxwell series GPUs, etc) but they are just not here yet. Even a Titan GPU can have problems rendering some games at 1440p and maintaining 120fps(much less 241hz for people who like to frame double to reduce input lag to visual association). Until GPUs and other hardware get to a point that i can double my framerate per my refresh at 1440p i will likely stay put. Also many 4K variants so far do not offer the color reproduction benefits of PLS and IPS displays. This is what makes the Qnix such a future proof display. It is just going to be a long time before anything over 1440p will catch up in specs and more importantly *price*.
> 
> EDIT: This is why if a [email protected] will likely not show up for a while until other factors of hardware catch up to be able to support it (Display ports might be able to do just over 60hz depending on the PCB and controller board).


Yes very true which is why it will probably be dual controllers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> I can't find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you point me in the right direction?


I made a video nothing special explaining how to overclock with an nvidia card. Check my post and also make sure your card is compatible.

Anyone looking to purchase one of these monitors. I ordered from MNW GLOBAL on Amazon.( Amazon backs the warranty with A to Z protection with this seller) Once the package shipped it took one day to arrive. As previous people here said before, it's pretty much a waste to buy pixel perfect. My monitor has no dead pixels and I did not order pixel perfect, I simply contacted MNW GLOBAL ahead of time and asked to send a monitor with no dead pixels or backlight bleeding... What I got was a perfect pixel monitor with BAD backlight bleeding lol....... but for 300$ shipped... a 2560x1440 monitor that can overclock... I was more than happy to fix the backlight problems. I am not sure why anyone would buy these monitors without a protection plan or warranty.

To anyone that might be seeing display driver stopped responding message. I get them rarely but I am not sure if it's do to overclock or being the drivers(Beta). I've had it happen in Skyrim sometimes, the screen goes black and the blue led blinks a couple of times but then comes back on. It doesn't happen too often and is not a big inconvenience but last night I did get a driver stopped responding message. This could be due to the fact of an overclock(unlikely) I think its a driver related issue being that we are running in test mode and patching the current driver. If anyone knows anything about this let me know.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Haven't been able to OC my monitor any higher than 70hz without getting intermittent horizontal lines on my screen whenever I would move windows. Is there anything specific you guys do? I have a feeling that it has something to do with my video card (5850) or drivers (13.4).


If you patched everything properly and used CRU correctly, it'll be either
a) GPU
b) Cable
c) Monitor (very unlikely).

Also: what pixel clock does CRU show with your settings? Spartan may be able to work something out from it. (with all the research he's done).

Do you/friends have any parts you could test with? Also try CCC>My Digital Flat Panels>Properties and see if the two "DVI Settings" help at all.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Haven't been able to OC my monitor any higher than 70hz without getting intermittent horizontal lines on my screen whenever I would move windows. Is there anything specific you guys do? I have a feeling that it has something to do with my video card (5850) or drivers (13.4).


Cables - 24AWG vs Length
Timings - CRU/NVCP, Manual vs auto/reduced_search "front porch"
Drivers - GPU/Monitor/full vs partial install
Ports - GPU per port
Overclocking software - CRU vs NVCP vs EDID hacking

Search please. The specifics are littered all over the thread and have been repeated often(roughly 2-3 times per 50 pages)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> If you patched everything properly and used CRU correctly, it'll be either
> a) GPU
> b) Cable
> c) Monitor (very unlikely).
> 
> Also: what pixel clock does CRU show with your settings? Spartan may be able to work something out from it. (with all the research he's done).
> 
> Do you/friends have any parts you could test with? Also try CCC>My Digital Flat Panels>Properties and see if the two "DVI Settings" help at all.


You beat me to it









EDIT: If you are having issues overclocking and have tried all the "easier" testable options listed above posting a screenshot of your timings is going to be best.

EDIT2: Also is it ONLY when you move windows?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> You beat me to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: If you are having issues overclocking and have tried all the "easier" testable options listed above posting a screenshot of your timings is going to be best.
> 
> EDIT2: Also is it ONLY when you move windows?


Lol, I'm just as surprised.

That standard list looks good, but 70Hz seemed weird - it's not the typical "I OCed to 120Hz straight away and got weird stuff" question.

rusky1 - what happens if you try something a lot higher - say 100Hz? And just to confirm, you are running the DVI-D only model off straight off a DVI-D cable? If so, how long is the cable?


----------



## rusky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> If you patched everything properly and used CRU correctly, it'll be either
> a) GPU
> b) Cable
> c) Monitor (very unlikely).
> 
> Also: what pixel clock does CRU show with your settings? Spartan may be able to work something out from it. (with all the research he's done).
> 
> Do you/friends have any parts you could test with? Also try CCC>My Digital Flat Panels>Properties and see if the two "DVI Settings" help at all.


The CCC DVI properties don't help, although reducing DVI frequency seems to make things marginally better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Cables - 24AWG vs Length
> Timings - CRU/NVCP, Manual vs auto/reduced_search "front porch"
> Drivers - GPU/Monitor/full vs partial install
> Ports - GPU per port
> Overclocking software - CRU vs NVCP vs EDID hacking
> 
> Search please. The specifics are littered all over the thread and have been repeated often(roughly 2-3 times per 50 pages)
> You beat me to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: If you are having issues overclocking and have tried all the "easier" testable options listed above posting a screenshot of your timings is going to be best.
> 
> EDIT2: Also is it ONLY when you move windows?


Cable: I have the stock cable that came with the monitor and a thicker (not sure what gauge) gold plated one.



Timings: See picture above

Drivers: I followed the guide. AMD 13.4 Drivers using the amd patcher 1.2. There was no test-mode.exe file used though.

Ports: Using a single 5850 (first 16x slot), plugging the monitor into the DVI-D port. Monitor is single input only.

OC software: CRU
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Lol, I'm just as surprised.
> 
> That standard list looks good, but 70Hz seemed weird - it's not the typical "I OCed to 120Hz straight away and got weird stuff" question.
> 
> rusky1 - what happens if you try something a lot higher - say 100Hz? And just to confirm, you are running the DVI-D only model off straight off a DVI-D cable? If so, how long is the cable?


My thoughts exactly. I wasn't expecting 120hz, but I started questioning things when even 80hz had the tearing. I tried several different refresh rates, 80, 90, 96 , 100, 110, and 120.


----------



## Moragg

Are you able to borrow a GPU? My 7770 1GB ran 120Hz, so perhaps it is to do with the age of the card.

Only other *possibility* and I'm throwing this out there, is that your PCB is different/really broken. Not sure how/why this would be the case though, and it is, again, highly unlikely.

EDIT: A quick search for "5850" brings up this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1990#post_20048057
So I'm definitely leaning towards the idea it's a GPU problem, fortunately for you Hawaii is out soon, and 7950's are going cheap


----------



## rusky1

Quick update!

Looks the the problem was with my GPU OC settings. I had it clocked at 880/1180 which resulted in corruption. As soon as I reverted all clocks back to stock, the problems went away. Thankfully I only have to wait another month or so before the 9970 comes out, I hope it won't be plagued by the same OC problem.

I've now been able to OC to 120hz without any issue.


----------



## sugarhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Can anyone shed some light on what could of possibly caused the issue I am having?
> 
> I really want to get this fixed


This is the backlight. So either you broke it or you accidentally plug off the power


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Quick update!
> 
> Looks the the problem was with my GPU OC settings. I had it clocked at 880/1180 which resulted in corruption. As soon as I reverted all clocks back to stock, the problems went away. Thankfully I only have to wait another month or so before the 9970 comes out, I hope it won't be plagued by the same OC problem.
> 
> I've now been able to OC to 120hz without any issue.


EDIT: Fantastic you figured it out. I cannot run an overclock on my GPUs either without having increased instability.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Quick update!
> 
> Looks the the problem was with my GPU OC settings. I had it clocked at 880/1180 which resulted in corruption. As soon as I reverted all clocks back to stock, the problems went away. Thankfully I only have to wait another month or so before the 9970 comes out, I hope it won't be plagued by the same OC problem.
> 
> I've now been able to OC to 120hz without any issue.


Good to hear. I once had a scare - booted my PC and display was extremely corrupted. Was worried for ~10mins before realising last run I'd altered CRU settings but hadn't restarted, then forgotton all about it









Might be the memory OC that caused the problem - since OCing would use memory more quickly (right?) increasing the risk of instability.


----------



## timaishu

Just ordered a qnix from ipsledmonitors.com

Overall I paid a little more than I had if I went with an ebay seller, but I found comfort in that I have 30 days to make sure the blb/deadpixels don't bother me if it ends up being excessive where I can either return it for a full refund(they pay shipping) or I can rma it and replace it.


----------



## Spartan F8

So i thought this was pretty funny and you guys might enjoy it. I play shadowrun on PC quite often and it is safe to say it is one of my favorite one off half completed FPS games. One of the neat parts about the game is that it is cross platform with Xbox so i play with a lot of console gamers. Well i get lots of hate mail mostly concerning me being to good and accusations of cheating. Well i will be the first to say i by no means "cheat" in its normal form. What i have come to realize is that from a console gamer's capability standpoint that may not be completely true. Just to quantify this idea i have a few statistics and specs to run by for your comparison and interest.

Xbox:
1. runs the game at 720p(1280x720 to be exact)
2. runs with a frame in advance rate of 3-5(input to visual response ratio effecting)
3. Uses a controller or gamepad
4. no real quality enhancements(AA, FXAA, etc)
5. Many play on standard TVs (big input lag)
6. limited to 30FPS (if that)
7. Runs on a standard flash or HDD
8. etc

My PC
1. Runs game at 1440p(4 times the resolution and immersion)
2. Set to run the game at 1 frame in advance (1:1 ratio from input to display at least on the processing level)
3. Using a gaming mouse rated at 6400DPI with the precision off(no pixel interpolation) and 1:1 pointer speed ratio
4. 16xAA, 16x AASF, FXAA, AA trans, HQ texture rendering, etc
5. one of the lowest input lag monitors around(easily 2-4 times as fast on average)
6. 120hz running at 241FPS to reduce mouse input fluidity to visual response(4 times as fast with 8 times as fast response vector)
7. SSD 560mb/s average.
8. i am sure there is more

Now i don't want to get too off topic but a lot of this is tied to the Qnix's specs and response possibilities. It also shows one of the major reasons i think most games are not opting to become cross platform(especially on a FPS basis). On average my score when i am actually trying (and not gauging myself to the "fun" factor) get 30-40% better scores than even seasoned players on console on kill/death ratio(when i run into another PC player i can usually tell).

So with this being said maybe i do "cheat"









Hopefully this is not too off topic and some of you guys find it interesting.


----------



## Moragg

IIRC, Microsoft trialled cross-platform online but abandoned the idea when they realised PC gamers destroyed xboxers. It's not cheating, but nor is it fair. But then, console gaming isn't fair either - same hardware, but lag compensation can sometimes farour certain people.

How old is this game? 241fps with all those settings is huge.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> IIRC, Microsoft trialled cross-platform online but abandoned the idea when they realised PC gamers destroyed xboxers. It's not cheating, but nor is it fair. But then, console gaming isn't fair either - same hardware, but lag compensation can sometimes farour certain people.
> 
> How old is this game? 241fps with all those settings is huge.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shadowrun_%282007_video_game%29 - I have every fix patch and performance optimization that has ever become available and lots of little self made performance tweaks. You can't actually cheat as it is all handled server side. I can run at around 260fps avg but keep it at a multiple of the refresh to avoid tearing. The Qnix has made me a terror in the shadowrun community due to the increase of performance.

It is still kinda a shame that the gaming industry/community is segmented by platform. Lag compensation is definitely a band aid on a bullet hole and massively aids individuals sometimes. I ad my share of it while i was still playing halo from time to time with friends.


----------



## sLaYDeMOn

Anyone have any problems overclocking 2-3 of these monitors on one desktop? Looking to buy 2 or 3 and wondering if i can OC all of them at once without any issues or difficulties..

Edit: Using Xfire 2 x 7970s


----------



## Kokin

Well it's a no brainer PC gamers have a clear advantage over console players. Just comparing aiming with a mouse vs a stick shows such an unfair advantage. Props for the pro console players though, put me with a controller and I'll suck balls compared to when I play on my PC.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugarhell*
> 
> This is the backlight. So either you broke it or you accidentally plug off the power


Which internal connector powers the back light array?? Can someone post a picture?

I was so careful when taking it apart and doing the tape mod. The only thing I can thing of is that when I was yanking the internal plugs out I pulled one of the wires up slightly from its contact from within the connector... Could this be possible?


----------



## sugarhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Which internal connector powers the back light array?? Can someone post a picture?
> 
> I was so careful when taking it apart and doing the tape mod. The only thing I can thing of is that when I was yanking the internal plugs out I pulled one of the wires up slightly from its contact from within the connector... Could this be possible?


Yeah i had the same problem


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugarhell*
> 
> Yeah i had the same problem


Did you fix it?


----------



## sugarhell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Did you fix it?


Yes just check the connectors.Maybe you bent something


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugarhell*
> 
> Yes just check the connectors.Maybe you bent something


Ok will do.

Thanks a lot for your replies mate! Gives me some hope!

Which connector was it though?

Did you have a similar effect on your screen?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This is going to be more dependent on your location rather than the seller. Many in the US have not had to pay customs(except for like California and other states with laws regarding online/oversees purchases


Hmm I do live in California. Does anyone here who bought from Amazon or Ebay and live in Cali get any import fees? If so, how much was it?


----------



## rusky1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hmm I do live in California. Does anyone here who bought from Amazon or Ebay and live in Cali get any import fees? If so, how much was it?


I'm in Cali and bought from Amazon, it was $310 delivered to my door.

Edit: I do have Amazon Prime though.


----------



## paulkon

What are thoughts on buying from AccessoriesWhole? I bought one from green-sum a month ago and it's perfect but that's when the price hit $269. Now he's selling it at $329 and AccessoriesWhole is selling at $299.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

What is the risk with these? I can deal with even backlight bleed around the edges, but blotches and a cloudy backlight drive me insane. Do the sellers take returns on monitors for backlight bleed? I get that they are PLS and 1440p, do monitors from a proper brand have any real advantage? I don't care about scaling or speakers.


----------



## sWaY20

This is unfortunate, seems these monitor are shooting up in price just like the catleaps did.

tapping from the Nexus 4


----------



## Semus

My Qnix QX2710 Glossy Pixel Perfect should be here tomorrow. I'll post my results - BLB or pixel issues. I hope this goes well.

I'll also see if I can do an unboxing for ya.

Cheers


----------



## Jaeflash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hmm I do live in California. Does anyone here who bought from Amazon or Ebay and live in Cali get any import fees? If so, how much was it?


SoCal here. I got on Ebay from Dream Seller. It came FedEx, and there were no import fees. I had mine held at a FedEx/Kinkos location so I could pick it up, rather than risk it sitting out in front of my apartment door all day. It shipped on 8/28 and it was delivered on 9/3.


----------



## gl0ry

holy cow, the prices went up a lot... and fast.


----------



## Kokin

Awesome good to know. Thanks for the replies +rep


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> holy cow, the prices went up a lot... and fast.


gl0ry, what was your experience with AccessoriesWhole? Any dead pixels or backlight bleed? Was the package well-wrapped? Thanks.


----------



## Net200777

Hey I'm having an issue where the monitor goes black and the blue led blinks a few times and then it says the display driver stopped responding. It's done it at 96hz. Any suggestions?

-edit something odd. I did the ufo fps test @ 96 and it had errors but no errors at 130 that's strange. I did notice at 130hz , screen is darker but not by much.

-nvm I tried 120hz again and no errors, and back to 96 and no errors... Hmmm I don't know. The only setting I'm changing is the hz nothing else.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> Hey I'm having an issue where the monitor goes black and the blue led blinks a few times and then it says the display driver stopped responding. It's done it at 96hz. Any suggestions?


Nvidia card?


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> gl0ry, what was your experience with AccessoriesWhole? Any dead pixels or backlight bleed? Was the package well-wrapped? Thanks.


I just bought a pixel perfect from them and they were great. No dead or stuck pixels and it was posted 1 day after I payed and arrived 3 days at my door after that!


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Nvidia card?


GTX Titan.. Is there a new version of cru or patch that I'm unaware of?


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> GTX Titan.. Is there a new version of cru or patch that I'm unaware of?


Not sure but there were some back screen related issues with the WHQL drivers. I think the latest betas sorted that out... I it was to do with the Korean PLS/IPS monitors...


----------



## paulkon

I was thinking about getting the matte X-Star from accessorieswhole since it seems to be the cheapest. It's not pixel perfect though. I bought a non pixel-perfect qnix from green-sum about a month ago but it had no dead pixels.


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Not sure but there were some back screen related issues with the WHQL drivers. I think the latest betas sorted that out... I it was to do with the Korean PLS/IPS monitors...


hmmm I'm running the beta. It could be the two games I had crash were heavily modded lol. I've got about 100 mods in skyrim.. and I must say damn1 It looks good. Also crysis 1 which is buggy due to mods. I just got through playing some BF3 and it didn't crash... hmm I'll report back anything else I find.

Pretty cool though it seemed stable @ 130hz. 140 started to show lines.


----------



## chanwhk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> My Qnix QX2710 Glossy Pixel Perfect should be here tomorrow. I'll post my results - BLB or pixel issues. I hope this goes well.
> 
> I'll also see if I can do an unboxing for ya.
> 
> Cheers


Who did you buy it from?
I'm looking for glossy and stock seems very limited at the mo
Yours is glossy not tempered glass right?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> gl0ry, what was your experience with AccessoriesWhole? Any dead pixels or backlight bleed? Was the package well-wrapped? Thanks.


It was probably the best experience I've ever had buying anything online. Even better than Amazon or Newegg. 2 Day international shipping, phenomenal packaging, great communication from seller.


----------



## chanwhk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> It was probably the best experience I've ever had buying anything online. Even better than Amazon or Newegg. 2 Day international shipping, phenomenal packaging, great communication from seller.


I am currently communicating with AccessoriesWhole trying to get the glossy panel that I've bought and have to agree they respond fairly quick and trying to make it work.
However, glossy panel gonna take 2+ weeks to produce so I might have to get matte.
I really hope its not too matte like other have stated.


----------



## chanwhk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> I was thinking about getting the matte X-Star from accessorieswhole since it seems to be the cheapest. It's not pixel perfect though. I bought a non pixel-perfect qnix from green-sum about a month ago but it had no dead pixels.


BTW they don't have that instock either. They have just received a shipment of Qnix QX2710 matte today however.


----------



## jlw777

I personally vouch for matte screen, as I sit in a well naturally-lit room, with my old BX2450, between 4pm - 6pm, the glaring from the sun makes any dark environment in games or multimedia very hard to see. With the Qnix, it is MUCH better.


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chanwhk*
> 
> Who did you buy it from?
> I'm looking for glossy and stock seems very limited at the mo
> Yours is glossy not tempered glass right?


I bought mine from Amazon.com. It should arrive today. As I said in another post, I'll try to post pictures of the unboxing and BLB (if there is any). I also purchased the pixel perfect version, so we'll see if it lives up to it's name.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> It was probably the best experience I've ever had buying anything online. Even better than Amazon or Newegg. 2 Day international shipping, phenomenal packaging, great communication from seller.


Well to be fair an individual eBay seller doesn't have the volume of Amazon or Newegg but it's still quite impressive when it gets to your door from the other side of the planet in 3 days.


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlw777*
> 
> I personally vouch for matte screen, as I sit in a well naturally-lit room, with my old BX2450, between 4pm - 6pm, the glaring from the sun makes any dark environment in games or multimedia very hard to see. With the Qnix, it is MUCH better.


I have a matte Qnix (secondary) and glossy Shimian (primary) which I look at for coding, etc and if I look from about 2-3 inches away from both screens then i see slight blurring of subpixels. Reflections from the windows make my side monitor useless (where the Qnix is atm) so I really appreciate the elimination of them.

At the same time I'm on-the-edge about the clarity difference for long periods of reading small text. I mainly code on the primary monitor, watch videos on the left, and read articles or documentation on the right monitor.


----------



## Semus

So, it's time to tell my story of the Qnix Q2710 that arrived this morning by UPS.

Here goes...

The unboxing:









Now comes the bad part...

I began to unbox everything and get it all set up for display on my desktop. I was hoping that my experience would be better than most on these forums as far as BLB or dead pixels. Well, I was not so lucky. I turned it on and discovered that I had very heavy BLB on the bottom and top of the monitor. After significant consideration, I decided to go ahead and take it apart to see if I could fix it. I removed the fours screws at the bottom and began the task of removing the front plastic face plate. After doing so I turned it back on to see if it eliminated any of the BLB. It only got rid of about 20% of it. After about an hour of fooling around with the panel, I decided to come up with my own tricks to solve the BLB.

Here's how I did it...

When I was fooling around with the panel, I noticed that if I put pressure on the bottom middle of the panel itself, the BLB would almost be completely gone. Same goes for the top. So, I put some paper (taped) at the top of the plastic face plate and put it back on at the top. That did the trick nicely at the top, although you can still see some BLB that I'm willing to live with.

One thing that people should be aware of is that if you look at the back half of the plastic casing that the panel sits in, take a look at the bottom. You'll notice that the bottom of the back casing is curved upwards in the middle. This might be a manufacturing defect of some kind, I'm not sure. But it's sure not straight as it should be. Also, I had to take a couple of screws out of the sides of the panel so that it flowed more freely inside the casing. This eliminated some BLB.

The BLB that was the absolute worst was the bottom left. It appeared to be pinching down there as some others have discovered. So, I put some pressure (as I said above) in the center of the panel at the bottom and the BLB would go away almost completely. So, I devised a plan of attack. Putting paper or tape down there would not yield any results at all. So tape or paper was out. But, I knew I had to keep pressure down there somehow. So, taking a huge gamble, I decided to drill a very small hole through the back casing at the bottom where the stand swivels. This allowed me to insert a small screw with a washer that would keep constant pressure on the panel at the bottom. After putting the plastic face plate back on (had to leave the bottom unattached because it would still cause pinching) the BLB was completely gone. I now have a panel with extremely minimal BLB only at the very top and you can hardly see it at all.

Here's an image of the screw on the bottom of the panel...



I hope that this post was helpful to some of you and I hope this is a warning to some of you. Be aware that you could have to do some significant fiddling around with your monitor to get it right when it arrives.

As for the colors, they are amazing. very rich colors and the blacks are very good, even for a glossy panel. I'd still recommend this monitor to anyone looking for a great 1440 panel. Overall I'm happy with it.

Cheers


----------



## odds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> So, it's time to tell my story of the Qnix Q2710 that arrived this morning by UPS.
> 
> Here goes...
> 
> The unboxing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now comes the bad part...
> 
> I began to unbox everything and get it all set up for display on my desktop. I was hoping that my experience would be better than most on these forums as far as BLB or dead pixels. Well, I was not so lucky. I turned it on and discovered that I had very heavy BLB on the bottom and top of the monitor. After significant consideration, I decided to go ahead and take it apart to see if I could fix it. I removed the fours screws at the bottom and began the task of removing the front plastic face plate. After doing so I turned it back on to see if it eliminated any of the BLB. It only got rid of about 20% of it. After about an hour of fooling around with the panel, I decided to come up with my own tricks to solve the BLB.
> 
> Here's how I did it...
> 
> When I was fooling around with the panel, I noticed that if I put pressure on the bottom middle of the panel itself, the BLB would almost be completely gone. Same goes for the top. So, I put some paper (taped) at the top of the plastic face plate and put it back on at the top. That did the trick nicely at the top, although you can still see some BLB that I'm willing to live with.
> 
> One thing that people should be aware of is that if you look at the back half of the plastic casing that the panel sits in, take a look at the bottom. You'll notice that the bottom of the back casing is curved upwards in the middle. This might be a manufacturing defect of some kind, I'm not sure. But it's sure not straight as it should be. Also, I had to take a couple of screws out of the sides of the panel so that it flowed more freely inside the casing. This eliminated some BLB.
> 
> The BLB that was the absolute worst was the bottom left. It appeared to be pinching down there as some others have discovered. So, I put some pressure (as I said above) in the center of the panel at the bottom and the BLB would go away almost completely. So, I devised a plan of attack. Putting paper or tape down there would not yield any results at all. So tape or paper was out. But, I knew I had to keep pressure down there somehow. So, taking a huge gamble, I decided to drill a very small hole through the back casing at the bottom where the stand swivels. This allowed me to insert a small screw with a washer that would keep constant pressure on the panel at the bottom. After putting the plastic face plate back on (had to leave the bottom unattached because it would still cause pinching) the BLB was completely gone. I now have a panel with extremely minimal BLB only at the very top and you can hardly see it at all.
> 
> Here's an image of the screw on the bottom of the panel...
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that this post was helpful to some of you and I hope this is a warning to some of you. Be aware that you could have to do some significant fiddling around with your monitor to get it right when it arrives.
> 
> As for the colors, they are amazing. very rich colors and the blacks are very good, even for a glossy panel. I'd still recommend this monitor to anyone looking for a great 1440 panel. Overall I'm happy with it.
> 
> Cheers


Very nice! Good work there and thanks for posting your solution. I'm sure they'll be helpful to someone (if not me once I get my QNIX in the mail within the next few days).

From which seller did you order your QNIX from?


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odds*
> 
> Very nice! Good work there and thanks for posting your solution. I'm sure they'll be helpful to someone (if not me once I get my QNIX in the mail within the next few days).
> 
> From which seller did you order your QNIX from?


I ordered mine from Amazon.com.


----------



## Majkes

I have recently stumbled upon this review and it sparked my interest in korean monitors:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/achieva_27_ips-zero-g.htm

It praised this monitor highly however the biggest issue was the lack of backlight control. Do these panels suffer from these issue as well?


----------



## odds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> I ordered mine from Amazon.com.


Which seller? I ordered mine through Amazon also, but the specific seller was MNW GLOBAL.


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odds*
> 
> Which seller? I ordered mine through Amazon also, but the specific seller was MNW GLOBAL.


Ah yes, it was MNW Global indeed.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

I just got my Qnix 2710 screen today..how do I OC it? it doesn't give me an option of over 60Hz.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 1. This is likely a matter of stability rather than interference as not all stability issues can be immediately seen
> 
> 2. I would advise you shuffle you variables. Your main points of experimentation are:
> .A: the cable(pretty much coovered in my last post)
> .B: The port on your video card. I have SLI and my second cards lower port gave the best results by about 3hz
> .C: The video card itself. Many have reported including myself that the 7xx nvidia series has given better results.
> .D: setup, meaning drivers, monitor driver installation, proper driver patching.
> .E: Timings. Any auto timing setting is never going to be as good as manually testing to find the best possible pixel clock. Many people have gotten as low as 450Mhz where auto keeps you around 470Mhz. This can make a big difference even 5-20hz. Try searching "front porch" in this thread as i have already gone into doing this manually in length. Also take a look at toastyx's forum lots of good info there.
> 
> 3. If you are already at 115hz without extensive cable and timings testing i would say you should be able to get 120hz or higher with some reading and effort.
> 
> 4. I don't ever recommend clocking back until all variables are exhausted. We are on an overclocking forum go for broke first then play it safe for the long term
> 
> 5. A sweet spot is when you can maintain a refresh without issues. With all the different variables this is going to be a moving number depending on how well each piece of the puzzle performs and every panel is different.
> 
> 6. Even number is not the concern. The only refresh number i would be interested in is keeping a multiple of 24hz to match main stream video content which is standard at 24fps(or 23.997). Kepping refresh at a multiple will decrease the pull down effect. If you are not worried about this then don't worry about any odd number framerate.
> 
> It is a lot to take in but you will get there


Oh oh.. Looks like even with the front porch method my monitor still cant fully handle 120hz.. (didnt test new cable or GPU yet though). Everything has been working flawless for about 5 days that I noticed, GPU intensive games, web browsing, etc. I was playing a game Civ 5 last night and this one graphic comes up every in-game year and I noticed a staticy vertical line, not horizontal like last time, it was in a quick info box for the game, the info box goes away and everything seems fine again. And its only in the box and about an inch long, maybe the color has something to do with it? Either way, I down-clocked to 96hz and the line was not there, so I figured it must be the hz.

Now I'm on 118hz with 452.54Mhz pixel clock down from 459.86mhz pixel clock. That vertical line is not there anymore, so I guess it worked. I could not get the pixel clock any lower without lines all over the screen on 120hz. I have not tried a different cable or a new GPU yet, just wanted to give people my experience. I dont use this monitor for movies so Im not concerned with keeping my hz in check for the pull-down effect.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I just got my Qnix 2710 screen today..how do I OC it? it doesn't give me an option of over 60Hz.


The original post has instructions and they are repeated throughout the thread.

Here's instructions that I compiled from the thread to help me (assuming you have an Nvidia GPU):

To overclock the Hz, what you are doing is adding a profile to your Nvidia drivers where you can select 96Hz from a dropdown (whereas normally it would not be possible).

Here are step-by-step instructions:

*1)* Download the Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) and the Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher, both available from this link:
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

You can save them anywhere, they don't have to be on your C: to run them.

*2)* Go into the pixel clock patcher folder and run nvlddmkm-patcher.exe. You only need to run the full patcher with 5xx series GPUs or earlier or if you have SLI. If you have a 6-series GPU or later or you're not running SLI you can just run the normal patcher. Then REBOOT.

*3)* After reboot go into the CRU folder and run CRU.
- In the dropdown at the top make sure the Qnix is selected. Qnix should be the active monitor.
- Highlight the resolution listed under "Detailed resolutions."
- Hit the "Edit" button below the box. This will pop up a new window.
- In the new window hit "Copy." Then hit "OK" to close the window.
- Hit the button "Add" under the "Detailed resolutions" box. This will pop up a new window. Hit "Paste" to populate the screen. Then go down to the area in this screen that says "Refresh rate:" and change it from whatever it is (59.5 or 60.0) to 96. Then hit "OK" to close the window.
- Move the new custom resolution that you created to the top of the list of resolutions under "Detailed resolutions."
- Make sure that "Include extension block" is unchecked.
- Hit OK and CRU will add this new "custom resolution" to your Nvidia drivers.
REBOOT.

*4)* Once you're rebooted, right click on your desktop (or however you want to do it) to go to NVIDIA Control Panel.
- Go to "Change resolution"
- Under PC you should see Qnix listed as 2560 x 1440 (native). It should be highlighted.
- CRU (despite the name, Custom Resolution Utility) does not add "custom resolutions" to NVIDIA Control Panel. It makes your drivers think that whatever resolutions you created are native.
- There's a dropdown next to the monitor labeled "Refresh rate:" You should be able to select 96Hz from this dropdown now.

I use 96Hz for gaming and keep it at 60Hz the rest of the time.

You can adjust the Hz to whatever you want. I use 96. You can try for 120 but you'll probably need to do some tweaking in CRU. To do those tweaks search the thread for "front porch." Spartan F8 has gone over these tweaks extensively.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I use 96Hz for gaming and keep it at 60Hz the rest of the time.


Just curious, why do you go back down to 60hz after gaming?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Oh oh.. Looks like even with the front porch method my monitor still cant fully handle 120hz.. (didnt test new cable or GPU yet though). Everything has been working flawless for about 5 days that I noticed, GPU intensive games, web browsing, etc. I was playing a game Civ 5 last night and this one graphic comes up every in-game year and I noticed a staticy vertical line, not horizontal like last time, it was in a quick info box for the game, the info box goes away and everything seems fine again. And its only in the box and about an inch long, maybe the color has something to do with it? Either way, I down-clocked to 96hz and the line was not there, so I figured it must be the hz.
> 
> Now I'm on 118hz with 452.54Mhz pixel clock down from 459.86mhz pixel clock. That vertical line is not there anymore, so I guess it worked. I could not get the pixel clock any lower without lines all over the screen on 120hz. I have not tried a different cable or a new GPU yet, just wanted to give people my experience. I dont use this monitor for movies so Im not concerned with keeping my hz in check for the pull-down effect.


That is excellent work on keeping the pixel clock down. I'm almost sure that simply changing the DVI port on your GPU (if you have 2 ports and / or 2 GPUs) or swapping out for a different cable would get you those 2 extra Hz, but if you're not concerned about syncing with movies 24FPS, then meh, what's a couple hertz?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Just curious, why do you go back down to 60hz after gaming?


I don't think there is any consensus or data on long-term life-span of these monitors. Overclocking the monitor puts extra stain on the chips and other components in the monitor. I'd rather not strain the monitor more than I have to. I also switch to 96Hz for watching some videos too.

Some other posts in this thread have noted that there is a chip on the PCB in the monitor that is rated for 450MHz pixel clock. Even Spartan F8 wasn't able to get his pixel clock below 450MHz at 120Hz. At 96Hz I'm at about 386MHz pixel clock (or something like that), well within the limits of that 450MHz chip, which is why I've only overclocked to 96Hz rather than 120Hz (which I'm pretty sure I could hit).

I'm just using an overabundance of caution, that's all.

Also, I just got a GTX 780 but when I had SLI GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes and ran over 60Hz both cards would run at full clocks. At 60Hz one of the cards in SLI would downclock as normal.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I don't think there is any consensus or data on long-term life-span of these monitors. Overclocking the monitor puts extra stain on the chips and other components in the monitor. I'd rather not strain the monitor more than I have to. I also switch to 96Hz for watching some videos too.
> 
> Some other posts in this thread have noted that there is a chip on the PCB in the monitor that is rated for 450MHz pixel clock. Even Spartan F8 wasn't able to get his pixel clock below 450MHz at 120Hz. At 96Hz I'm at about 386MHz pixel clock (or something like that), well within the limits of that 450MHz chip, which is why I've only overclocked to 96Hz rather than 120Hz (which I'm pretty sure I could hit).
> 
> I'm just using an overabundance of caution, that's all.
> 
> Also, I just got a GTX 780 but when I had SLI GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes and ran over 60Hz both cards would run at full clocks. At 60Hz one of the cards in SLI would downclock as normal.


Caution is nice, but then again 459MHz is only about 2% higher than 450MHz. Considering that even monitors that don't OC get a few frames extra (60Hz --> 64-67Hz for example), 2% should be nothing to worry about I guess.

Also, *caution* to users who simply *dial in the refresh rate* they want to hit *without* adjusting anything else. *You are doing it wrong*.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Caution is nice, but then again 459MHz is only about 2% higher than 450MHz. Considering that even monitors that don't OC get a few frames extra (60Hz --> 64-67Hz for example), 2% should be nothing to worry about I guess.
> 
> Also, *caution* to users who simply *dial in the refresh rate* they want to hit *without* adjusting anything else. *You are doing it wrong*.


And why would that be "doing it wrong"? If it works, then what exactly is the problem?


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I don't think there is any consensus or data on long-term life-span of these monitors. Overclocking the monitor puts extra stain on the chips and other components in the monitor. I'd rather not strain the monitor more than I have to. I also switch to 96Hz for watching some videos too.
> 
> Some other posts in this thread have noted that there is a chip on the PCB in the monitor that is rated for 450MHz pixel clock. Even Spartan F8 wasn't able to get his pixel clock below 450MHz at 120Hz. At 96Hz I'm at about 386MHz pixel clock (or something like that), well within the limits of that 450MHz chip, which is why I've only overclocked to 96Hz rather than 120Hz (which I'm pretty sure I could hit).
> 
> I'm just using an overabundance of caution, that's all.
> 
> Also, I just got a GTX 780 but when I had SLI GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes and ran over 60Hz both cards would run at full clocks. At 60Hz one of the cards in SLI would downclock as normal.


Gotcha.. Nice write up by the way.. I was totally lost until Spartan told me to look up "front porch" this thread moves so quick.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That is excellent work on keeping the pixel clock down. I'm almost sure that simply changing the DVI port on your GPU (if you have 2 ports and / or 2 GPUs) or swapping out for a different cable would get you those 2 extra Hz, but if you're not concerned about syncing with movies 24FPS, then meh, what's a couple hertz?


Thanks.. I probably should leave it but I wont..







Definitely gonna try another cable, the 24awg from Monoprice were worse than the stock.

And I was just thinking about that other DVI port..







I'll give that a shot after work.

I think I read that Spartan had the best luck with some crappy cable laying around over the Monoprice and stock cables.. Does anyone have a different company that is at a fair price for these cables that they can recommend? I know its a crap shoot with these cable but I haven't read or at least I missed if anyone recommended other ones.


----------



## Woodies0351

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> The original post has instructions and they are repeated throughout the thread.
> 
> Here's instructions that I compiled from the thread to help me (assuming you have an Nvidia GPU):
> 
> To overclock the Hz, what you are doing is adding a profile to your Nvidia drivers where you can select 96Hz from a dropdown (whereas normally it would not be possible).
> 
> Here are step-by-step instructions:
> 
> *1)* Download the Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) and the Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher, both available from this link:
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU
> 
> You can save them anywhere, they don't have to be on your C: to run them.
> 
> *2)* Go into the pixel clock patcher folder and run nvlddmkm-patcher.exe. You only need to run the full patcher with 5xx series GPUs or earlier or if you have SLI. If you have a 6-series GPU or you're not running SLI you can just run the normal patcher. Then REBOOT.
> 
> *3)* After reboot go into the CRU folder and run CRU.
> - In the dropdown at the top make sure the Qnix is selected. Qnix should be the active monitor.
> - Highlight the resolution listed under "Detailed resolutions."
> - Hit the "Edit" button below the box. This will pop up a new window.
> - In the new window hit "Copy." Then hit "OK" to close the window.
> - Hit the button "Add" under the 'Detailed resolutions" box. This will pop up a new window. Hit "Paste" to populate the screen. Then go down to the area in this screen that says "Refresh rate:' and change it from whatever it is (59.5 or 60.0) to 96. Then hit "OK" to close the window.
> - Move the new custom resolution that you created to the top of the list of resolutions under "Detailed resolutions."
> - Make sure that "Include extension block" is unchecked.
> - Hit OK and CRU will add this new "custom resolution" to your Nvidia drivers.
> REBOOT.
> 
> *4)* Once you're rebooted, right click on your desktop (or however you want to do it) to go to NVIDIA Control Panel.
> - Go to "Change resolution"
> - Under PC you should see Qnix listed as 2560 x 1440 (native). It should be highlighted.
> - CRU (despite the name, Custom Resolution Utility) does not add "custom resolutions" to NVIDIA Control Panel. It makes your drivers think that whatever resolutions you created are native.
> - There's a dropdown next to the monitor labeled "Refresh rate:" You should be able to select 96Hz from this dropdown now.
> 
> I use 96Hz for gaming and keep it at 60Hz the rest of the time.
> 
> You can adjust the Hz to whatever you want. I use 96. You can try for 120 but you'll probably need to do some tweaking in CRU. To do those tweaks search the thread for "front porch." Spartan F8 has gone over these tweaks extensively.


Thanks! it worked great!
I just got it outta the box and at 96Htz within 30 minutes .... Damn, this monitor looks good!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Thanks.. I probably should leave it but I wont..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely gonna try another cable, the 24awg from Monoprice were worse than the stock.


Leave it? *FINISH HIM!*








Quote:


> And I was just thinking about that other DVI port..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll give that a shot after work.


Could give 2-3-5Hz, just enough.
Quote:


> I think I read that Spartan had the best luck with some crappy cable laying around over the Monoprice and stock cables.. Does anyone have a different company that is at a fair price for these cables that they can recommend? I know its a crap shoot with these cable but I haven't read or at least I missed if anyone recommended other ones.


Yup, a 3ft cable, which shows that the shorter the cable is, the more it overclocks. (Much) more so than getting a thicker cable.

If you have your case behind or beside your monitor, I say there's no reason not to get a 3ft DVI cable and simply reduce strain, even if you won't OC higher (than 120Hz).


----------



## hutt132

I can't find the "HP Extended Height ZR22w Monitor Stand LV980AA" in stock anywhere.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I can't find the "HP Extended Height ZR22w Monitor Stand LV980AA" in stock anywhere.


You can try looking for the HP ZR24/27/30 stands as they should be similar, if not the same but longer. There's also the HP ZR2240w (LED version of the ZR22w).

Source: I use 2x ZR22w's + 1x ZR2240w.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

I did everything as posted. But in control panel it only say 60Hz.


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You can try looking for the HP ZR24/27/30 stands as they should be similar, if not the same but longer. There's also the HP ZR2240w (LED version of the ZR22w).
> 
> Source: I use 2x ZR22w's + 1x ZR2240w.


I can't find them in any online stores.


----------



## Robertdt

Hey, I know this isn't the most interesting question, but what are you guys setting for your color temperature? Are you checking the EDID tab in your video card's software to use the monitor's preferred setting, or are you sticking with the video card (Catalyst, etc.) software default?

Which is likely to give the better picture quality?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I can't find them in any online stores.


Well you can check out the Monoprice ones:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> There are a ton of options at monoprice. People seem to like this one:
> www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 
> Mt friend just bought this one:
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
> 
> Links to more options:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=desk+mount+brackets
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=vesa


This post should probably be put into the OP where the "stand" section is.


----------



## Semus

I have just managed to successfully overclock my brand new Qnix QX2710 to 96HZ. I can definitely tell you that it makes a difference in games and on the desktop. My mouse appears much smoother as it flies across the screen. Playing games seem much smoother as well. I had forgotten what CRT monitors were like after using nothing but 60HZ for a decade. Such a difference. No wonder people love those 120HZ monitors. Still, you really need the FPS to make sure you take full advantage of it.

I'm wondering why certain people say that the colors are worse with overclocking. I seem to be getting the same colors as I always get with 60HZ. Is there a slight difference when calibrating? I don't see the difference TBH.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I did everything as posted. But in control panel it only say 60Hz.


I know you said you did everything posted, but did you uncheck include extension block? Just checking..


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> I have just managed to successfully overclock my brand new Qnix QX2710 to 96HZ. I can definitely tell you that it makes a difference in games and on the desktop. My mouse appears much smoother as it flies across the screen. Playing games seem much smoother as well. I had forgotten what CRT monitors were like after using nothing but 60HZ for a decade. Such a difference. No wonder people love those 120HZ monitors. Still, you really need the FPS to make sure you take full advantage of it.
> 
> I'm wondering why certain people say that the colors are worse with overclocking. I seem to be getting the same colors as I always get with 60HZ. Is there a slight difference when calibrating? I don't see the difference TBH.


On OCing my monitor to 120Hz the colour shift was huge - I cannot understate that, colour temp dropped by at least 1000K. This is because at 120Hz your pixel clock goes above 450Mhz, which is what the monitor PCB can handle, thus causing massive shift.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Leave it? *FINISH HIM!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could give 2-3-5Hz, just enough.
> Yup, a 3ft cable, which shows that the shorter the cable is, the more it overclocks. (Much) more so than getting a thicker cable.
> 
> If you have your case behind or beside your monitor, I say there's no reason not to get a 3ft DVI cable and simply reduce strain, even if you won't OC higher (than 120Hz).


Looks like changing the DVI port did the trick! That one distorted line is gone, it was there at 120hz this morning while using the other port.










Fingers are crossed that it stays that way, I have high hopes it will.

Are there any other kind of stress tests that I can try? I did the frame skip test and it passed even with the other port.

Thank you!


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> On OCing my monitor to 120Hz the colour shift was huge - I cannot understate that, colour temp dropped by at least 1000K. This is because at 120Hz your pixel clock goes above 450Mhz, which is what the monitor PCB can handle, thus causing massive shift.


I guess it depends on what you're used to. I noticed a change when I went to 120hz but then I used the Asus PB278Q.icc color profile and I thought it helped a lot.


----------



## tomKPZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> Rant coming.
> 
> I ordered an X-star from dream-seller on eBay on the 18th. It didn't ship until the 28th. However, when he did ship it, he used economy mail despite clearly stating "FREE EXPRESS SHIPPING" on the eBay listing. It finally arrived on the 3rd, in its stock box (no packaging or anything). The had a large hole in it, I hope to god from shipping. I open the box and can't use my monitor because there's no US power adapter. I go to the store to get one. Also there's a note in the box which says the monitor has been opened due to "testing", although someone probably just returned it. The monitor OCs to 120Hz, but has image burn, a dark spot when OCed, and 2 dead pixels (I blame dream-seller).
> On the 3rd, I ordered a Qnix from accessorieswhole. Got the monitor on the 6th, and it has no problems.
> dream-seller is a clown, don't order form him. I'm thinking of opening a complaint with eBay to get some of my money back because the item wasn't as described (no express shpiping) just to spite him.
> 
> End rant.
> 
> Otherwise, if anyone can help with image burn, I would appreciate it. I can live with dead pixels and a dark spot but the burn is pissing me off. It only happens when OCed and is only in the top right quadrant of the screen (where the dark spot is).


Update:
Holy motherloving ****. I just got a bill in the mail today from FedEx for "duties, tax, customs, and fees" after my monitor was delivered. dream-seller puts "FREE EXPRESS SHIPPING" in the title, however it is neither "FREE" nor "EXPRESS." How does eBay let him get away with this?
Please, please, PLEASE stay FAR away from dream-seller.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> I guess it depends on what you're used to. I noticed a change when I went to 120hz but then I used the Asus PB278Q.icc color profile and I thought it helped a lot.


Try it with a linear ICC profile and you'll see what i mean. I calibrated my monitor so colours look perfect, but it was completley unusable at 120Hz before.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> Update:
> Holy motherloving ****. I just got a bill in the mail today from FedEx for "duties, tax, customs, and fees" after my monitor was delivered. dream-seller puts "FREE EXPRESS SHIPPING" in the title, however it is neither "FREE" nor "EXPRESS." How does eBay let him get away with this?
> Please, please, PLEASE stay FAR away from dream-seller.


Oh boy, I ordered on the same day as you and they sent it via fedex. It got to me on the Tues after Labor day. The shipping delay was because of a typhoon in China where they get the monitors from, that part was probably true because there were some crazy storms there at the time. But when it shipped it was certainly "express", 4 business days from SK is pretty insane, but I dont know what exact Fedex shipping method they used.

I also got the letter that they inspected it. Mine looked completely brand new.

It stated somewhere, maybe on slickdeals that you needed a USA type plug, so I knew that in advance.

It did come in the monitor box, kinda just like newegg ships their monitors but it wasn't dented or anything, that did have me a little worried though.

And their customer service was perfect, I emailed them and got a reply within 1-2 hours. They even asked if I wanted to cancel my order because of the delay.

But they never mentioned any duties, customs, etc. How much is the bill? Are you from the US or another country? Im on the east coast, USA. I just check my mail and no bill yet..


----------



## tomKPZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Oh boy, I ordered on the same day as you and they sent it via fedex. It got to me on the Tues after Labor day. The shipping delay was because of a typhoon in China where they get the monitors from, that part was probably true because there were some crazy storms there at the time. But when it shipped it was certainly "express", 4 business days from SK is pretty insane, but I dont know what exact Fedex shipping method they used.
> 
> I also got the letter that they inspected it. Mine looked completely brand new.
> 
> It stated somewhere, maybe on slickdeals that you needed a USA type plug, so I knew that in advance.
> 
> It did come in the monitor box, kinda just like newegg ships their monitors but it wasn't dented or anything, that did have me a little worried though.
> 
> And their customer service was perfect, I emailed them and got a reply within 1-2 hours. They even asked if I wanted to cancel my order because of the delay.
> 
> But they never mentioned any duties, customs, etc. How much is the bill? Are you from the US or another country? Im on the east coast, USA. I just check my mail and no bill yet..


I'm from the west coast. The bill is for $20.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Try it with a linear ICC profile and you'll see what i mean. I calibrated my monitor so colours look perfect, but it was completley unusable at 120Hz before.


Are you guys using the EDID color temperature setting (monitor preferred), or the default video card software setting? I noticed it gives a fairly distinct difference in coloration.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> Update:
> Holy motherloving ****. I just got a bill in the mail today from FedEx for "duties, tax, customs, and fees" after my monitor was delivered. dream-seller puts "FREE EXPRESS SHIPPING" in the title, however it is neither "FREE" nor "EXPRESS." How does eBay let him get away with this?
> Please, please, PLEASE stay FAR away from dream-seller.


Hence why I was asking about customs. Two people from California said no customs fee though. What part of the West Coast do you live in?


----------



## tomKPZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hence why I was asking about customs. Two people from California said no customs fee though. What part of the West Coast do you live in?


Southern California


----------



## SLADEizGOD

is there a different stand for the Qnix screen..it feels like its gonna break..lol


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> The original post has instructions and they are repeated throughout the thread.
> 
> Here's instructions that I compiled from the thread to help me (assuming you have an Nvidia GPU):
> 
> To overclock the Hz, what you are doing is adding a profile to your Nvidia drivers where you can select 96Hz from a dropdown (whereas normally it would not be possible).
> 
> Here are step-by-step instructions:
> 
> *1)* Download the Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) and the Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher, both available from this link:
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU
> 
> You can save them anywhere, they don't have to be on your C: to run them.
> 
> *2)* Go into the pixel clock patcher folder and run nvlddmkm-patcher.exe. You only need to run the full patcher with 5xx series GPUs or earlier or if you have SLI. If you have a 6-series GPU or later or you're not running SLI you can just run the normal patcher. Then REBOOT.
> 
> *3)* After reboot go into the CRU folder and run CRU.
> - In the dropdown at the top make sure the Qnix is selected. Qnix should be the active monitor.
> - Highlight the resolution listed under "Detailed resolutions."
> - Hit the "Edit" button below the box. This will pop up a new window.
> - In the new window hit "Copy." Then hit "OK" to close the window.
> - Hit the button "Add" under the "Detailed resolutions" box. This will pop up a new window. Hit "Paste" to populate the screen. Then go down to the area in this screen that says "Refresh rate:" and change it from whatever it is (59.5 or 60.0) to 96. Then hit "OK" to close the window.
> - Move the new custom resolution that you created to the top of the list of resolutions under "Detailed resolutions."
> - Make sure that "Include extension block" is unchecked.
> - Hit OK and CRU will add this new "custom resolution" to your Nvidia drivers.
> REBOOT.
> 
> *4)* Once you're rebooted, right click on your desktop (or however you want to do it) to go to NVIDIA Control Panel.
> - Go to "Change resolution"
> - Under PC you should see Qnix listed as 2560 x 1440 (native). It should be highlighted.
> - CRU (despite the name, Custom Resolution Utility) does not add "custom resolutions" to NVIDIA Control Panel. It makes your drivers think that whatever resolutions you created are native.
> - There's a dropdown next to the monitor labeled "Refresh rate:" You should be able to select 96Hz from this dropdown now.
> 
> I use 96Hz for gaming and keep it at 60Hz the rest of the time.
> 
> You can adjust the Hz to whatever you want. I use 96. You can try for 120 but you'll probably need to do some tweaking in CRU. To do those tweaks search the thread for "front porch." Spartan F8 has gone over these tweaks extensively.


I finally got it. I just made my mistake in not going into the costume setting on the Nvidia control panel side. I pushed it up to just 90Hz & im a happy camper..Thanks for your help.. +Rep for you my friend.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Got my XStar today. Used the EVGA pixel clock and it handled BF3 at 100hz.

Can't wait to try out the CRU and really see what it can do.


----------



## shw89

Does anyone know if I can use any plug for the power supply on my xstar .. the one that came with it is Korean plug


----------



## RagingBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tingc222*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've been looking into getting this monitor..but just to be sure: is this the one to get (I prefer pixel perfect)?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa
> 
> Any differences from the QNIX version at all?
> 
> Thanks!


I just bought this exact monitor from Dreamseller. I got mine and it is indeed Pixel Perfect; no dead pixels. I have no problems with back light bleed whatsoever. The LCD is in the casing correctly and there is no panel play whatsoever. I immediately overclocked it to 120hz and also had no problem. I ordered it on the 5th and recieved it today the 9th. All in all I got the best these Korean monitors have to offer. I'd buy one again when I'm in need of another. I would say go for it based on my experience. Dreamseller even sent a note thanking me for the purchase.

The X-Star and the Qnix are made by the same company. They are basically the same monitor with a different branding.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can use any plug for the power supply on my xstar .. the one that came with it is Korean plug


I used an old PSU plug and it worked fine. Just make sure its a 10A 125V!


----------



## shw89

Holy crap.. this monitor is HUGE.. SO MUCH SPACE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I only got 1 dead pixel and I can only see it when its black. The bleeding isnt so bad either and barely noticable! I got an xstar from dreamseller on ebay. I can't imagine using dual monitor or even 3 on these things.. I am purchasing another one ASAP.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> There are a ton of options at monoprice. People seem to like this one:
> www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 
> Mt friend just bought this one:
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
> 
> Links to more options:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=desk+mount+brackets
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=vesa
> 
> 
> 
> *This post should probably be put into the OP where the "stand" section is.*
Click to expand...

Done


----------



## RobV

I'm finally part of a whole!


----------



## noname2020x

Forgive me if this has been posted before in this thread. I was unable to find an answer.
I used the CRU application by itself to no avail even though I only have 1 graphics card.
Then I used the patcher followed by the CRU and the refresh rate change appears in nvidia control panel and i am able to change it and when i do the screen goes black for a second and gets a tiny bit darker at 96hz and a little darker still at 120hz so it appears to be working.
The problem is, in the windows sdisplay settings it doesnt show anything about 60hz as an option. So i tried the testufo frameskipping link and it says its at 60fps and 60hz. so I tried crysis 3 and some other games using vsync half refresh and they are all 30fps. Whats going on?

thanks!

p.s. ive tried to redo the patch and it says everything was patched successfully, ive also tried closing some excess application to no avail and rebooting several times and making new profiles in cru etc.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> is there a different stand for the Qnix screen..it feels like its gonna break..lol


ANY vesa 100mm stand. Some common and inexpensive solutions can be found in the OP, under the section "Good Replacement VESA Monitor Stands"


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noname2020x*
> 
> Forgive me if this has been posted before in this thread. I was unable to find an answer.
> I used the CRU application by itself to no avail even though I only have 1 graphics card.
> Then I used the patcher followed by the CRU and the refresh rate change appears in nvidia control panel and i am able to change it and when i do the screen goes black for a second and gets a tiny bit darker at 96hz and a little darker still at 120hz so it appears to be working.
> The problem is, in the windows sdisplay settings it doesnt show anything about 60hz as an option. So i tried the testufo frameskipping link and it says its at 60fps and 60hz. so I tried crysis 3 and some other games using vsync half refresh and they are all 30fps. Whats going on?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> p.s. ive tried to redo the patch and it says everything was patched successfully, ive also tried closing some excess application to no avail and rebooting several times and making new profiles in cru etc.


So you patched it, and restarted. You enabled test mode and restarted. You set 96hz in cru and restarted right?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noname2020x*
> 
> Forgive me if this has been posted before in this thread. I was unable to find an answer.
> I used the CRU application by itself to no avail even though I only have 1 graphics card.
> Then I used the patcher followed by the CRU and the refresh rate change appears in nvidia control panel and i am able to change it and when i do the screen goes black for a second and gets a tiny bit darker at 96hz and a little darker still at 120hz so it appears to be working.
> The problem is, in the windows sdisplay settings it doesnt show anything about 60hz as an option. So i tried the testufo frameskipping link and it says its at 60fps and 60hz. so I tried crysis 3 and some other games using vsync half refresh and they are all 30fps. Whats going on?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> p.s. ive tried to redo the patch and it says everything was patched successfully, ive also tried closing some excess application to no avail and rebooting several times and making new profiles in cru etc.


Are you running multiple monitors? If the Test UFO window is maximized and you're running multiple monitors it'll run at the lower Hz of your two monitors. Manually resize the browser so it's only on the Qnix.

Also only Chrome supports 120Hz. Firefox 24+ will too, but that's still beta.


----------



## jerrolds

Well i got my QNIX today - and im able to hit 135hz, although theres some artifacting. Going back down to 120hz permanently which is nice. Looking for decent color profiles for glossy panels in dark room environment. So far not as nice looking as my Tempest or CrossOver w/ color profiles.

The backlight bleed is terrible though. 

Going to attempt the tape mod fix, ive already opened it up to replace the stand...but i have to remove the metal frame around the panel as well? Is it easy to just pop off?


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Well i got my QNIX today - and im able to hit 135hz, although theres some artifacting. Going back down to 120hz permanently which is nice. Looking for decent color profiles for glossy panels in dark room environment. So far not as nice looking as my Tempest or CrossOver w/ color profiles.
> 
> The backlight bleed is terrible though.
> 
> Going to attempt the tape mod fix, ive already opened it up to replace the stand...but i have to remove the metal frame around the panel as well? Is it easy to just pop off?


I didn't bother doing all that I just put some crumpled up paper behind the bottom right screen which is where my blb was coming from and also some tape under the qnix emblem to put pressure from both sides and I can barely see any blb anymore(don't even notice it). You just need to figure out how to get the screen in such a way where there is a minimal amount and get creative on how to fix it.


----------



## shw89

Hmm is my back light bleeding that bad? I was playing csgo, watching dexter and.breaking bad today and it didnt bothet me, nor did I see anything out of the blue compared to my old asus 25" monitor...


----------



## Betakaiser

So accessorieswhole is being subborn on the dead pixels in the center of my screen it has 2 dead across from each other with a some dimmed pixels around them so they are prominent on the screen. Every time I message them they say they refund an amount it started at $30 and now its at $90 but they say if you want a exchange you can do that. I course I've said every-time I want a exchange and they just counter with a refund. I'm not sure what I should do about this report them to Ebay to get a refund or hope they counter with a better refund to compensate the pixels. Need some thoughts on the situation.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Betakaiser*
> 
> So accessorieswhole is being subborn on the dead pixels in the center of my screen it has 2 dead across from each other with a some dimmed pixels around them so they are prominent on the screen. Every time I message them they say they refund an amount it started at $30 and now its at $90 but they say if you want a exchange you can do that. I course I've said every-time I want a exchange and they just counter with a refund. I'm not sure what I should do about this report them to Ebay to get a refund or hope they counter with a better refund to compensate the pixels. Need some thoughts on the situation.


Just file an ebay claim.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Well i got my QNIX today - and im able to hit 135hz, although theres some artifacting. Going back down to 120hz permanently which is nice. Looking for decent color profiles for glossy panels in dark room environment. So far not as nice looking as my Tempest or CrossOver w/ color profiles.
> 
> The backlight bleed is terrible though.
> 
> Going to attempt the tape mod fix, ive already opened it up to replace the stand...but i have to remove the metal frame around the panel as well? Is it easy to just pop off?


Your BLB looks almost exactly the same as mine did at the bottom in the same spots except I had more at the top as well. If your going to do the tape mode just be really careful as somehow my screen cracked when popping the panel back into the metal frame.


----------



## Nazrule

Still debating if I'm gonna give it another go or not and purchase a second 1 to replace the monitor that I broke. I still basically have a whole brand new monitor minus the panel, that I can use as backup parts so I might just go for it. I notice with purchasing from Dream-Seller for the Pixel perfect version it mentions that "light back light bleed" is acceptable. Has anyone had major BLB like the previous post and were able to get an exchange? I'm willing to pay the extra for the pixel perfect version if it means basically I'll have little to no BLB as I don't wanna risk having to take apart another LCD and breaking it.


----------



## noname2020x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> So you patched it, and restarted. You enabled test mode and restarted. You set 96hz in cru and restarted right?


Yes minus the test mode.

The new version says it doesn't require it and it's not even in the download zip (http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU)

and to the other question I am not running multiple monitors. I am only running one.

Any other ideas?

p.s. if im running 96hz and turn on v-sync the framerate should be 48 right?


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> Still debating if I'm gonna give it another go or not and purchase a second 1 to replace the monitor that I broke. I still basically have a whole brand new monitor minus the panel, that I can use as backup parts so I might just go for it. I notice with purchasing from Dream-Seller for the Pixel perfect version it mentions that "light back light bleed" is acceptable. Has anyone had major BLB like the previous post and were able to get an exchange? I'm willing to pay the extra for the pixel perfect version if it means basically I'll have little to no BLB as I don't wanna risk having to take apart another LCD and breaking it.


Purchase a squaretrade warranty with accidental damage protection. And file a claim after like a month or something so it dosnt look shady.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Well i got my QNIX today - and im able to hit 135hz, although theres some artifacting. Going back down to 120hz permanently which is nice. Looking for decent color profiles for glossy panels in dark room environment. So far not as nice looking as my Tempest or CrossOver w/ color profiles.
> 
> The backlight bleed is terrible though.
> 
> Going to attempt the tape mod fix, ive already opened it up to replace the stand...but i have to remove the metal frame around the panel as well? Is it easy to just pop off?


what stand did you buy? I need to replace the one on my Qnix. It feels so flimsily. And where do you put the tape at to fix the BLB? I know I have to take it apart. but just dont know where to place it at.


----------



## gl3nnn

Hi guys. just looking to get some feedback. How are tempered glass monitors? I am looking for a glossy Qnix monitor, but i recently saw Qnix has a tempered glass version.
It seem to be relatively cheaper. How does tempered glass compare to glossy?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Tempered glass is even more reflective which is to say a LOT. And blacks are greyish apparently.


----------



## gl3nnn

I see. So would you say getting a glossy screen is in a way "better" than tempered glass?
Glossy screens also cost more compared to matte screens i don't get it.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Here's the pic.


----------



## timaishu

Mine arrives tomorrow. Crazy considering it shipped 3am this morning from korea. Will post my impressions upon first use.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> what stand did you buy? I need to replace the one on my Qnix. It feels so flimsily. And where do you put the tape at to fix the BLB? I know I have to take it apart. but just dont know where to place it at.


I actually dont know where the tape goes







But i used the ErgoTron Neo Flex - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824994001 - pretty cheap works in Portrait and i prefer them over Dual Arm or Wall Mounts as they are way easier to move, place around the desk etc.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> Your BLB looks almost exactly the same as mine did at the bottom in the same spots except I had more at the top as well. If your going to do the tape mode just be really careful as somehow my screen cracked when popping the panel back into the metal frame.


How did you take the metal frame off?


----------



## gl3nnn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Mine arrives tomorrow. Crazy considering it shipped 3am this morning from korea. Will post my impressions upon first use.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> Here's the pic.


Which buyer did you guys get it from?


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl3nnn*
> 
> Which buyer did you guys get it from?


ipsledmonitors.com


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Hey guys, I just purchased a QNIX Tempered Glass QX2710 from accessorieswhole and their shipping email says delivery should be within 15-30 days, but looking on this thread it appears most people are getting theirs much sooner?
I am in Canada and the order was sent Expedited Int'l. Any idea of whether or not their estimation is correct?

Edit: Looking at my FedEx tracking on their website it shows my estimated delivery is for 9/13/2013, this Friday!!

I can't wait!


----------



## jerrolds

Should take 3 days - this is my 2nd korean monitor - both came in 3 days, i live in Winnipeg MB


----------



## kaurapuuro8

HI,

I ordered my 3rd qnix from bigclothcraft more than a week ago and its not even shipped yet. I tried to contact the seller because last 2 monitors shipped very quickly, but still no answer. Do you think they are beginning to have some sort of supply problems? It would suck if i cant get my 3rd because they cant get hold of any new panels or something...


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaurapuuro8*
> 
> HI,
> 
> I ordered my 3rd qnix from bigclothcraft more than a week ago and its not even shipped yet. I tried to contact the seller because last 2 monitors shipped very quickly, but still no answer. Do you think they are beginning to have some sort of supply problems? It would suck if i cant get my 3rd because they cant get hold of any new panels or something...


I'm almost positive they are having supply problems. I'm trying to exchange mine and the seller is stalling like crazy.


----------



## jriley9922

I noticed on ebay the prices have gone back up from $280ish to $320ish.

I got the QX2710 normal model for $280 a month ago... no dead pixels, honestly no bleeding either. runs 110hz fine, get screen lines at 120hz... but 110hz and I'm a happy camper to make use of my 7950 crossfire setup.

I used the toastyX patcher


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Hey guys, I just purchased a QNIX Tempered Glass QX2710 from accessorieswhole and their shipping email says delivery should be within 15-30 days, but looking on this thread it appears most people are getting theirs much sooner?
> I am in Canada and the order was sent Expedited Int'l. Any idea of whether or not their estimation is correct?
> 
> Edit: Looking at my FedEx tracking on their website it shows my estimated delivery is for 9/13/2013, this Friday!!
> 
> I can't wait!


Mine said delivery expected on Thursday and I got it on a Tues. Had to call in sick after I checked the tracking number.. lol . I was like whahhh.. I used dream-seller though. It really is amazing how fast these are shipped and delivered.


----------



## pcoutu17

I'm so close to picking one of these up. However, I want to make sure I go with a good seller in case something goes wrong. I'm currently between either ipsledmonitors.com, because of their warranty, and accessories whole on ebay, due to certain monitors having a perfect pixel guarantee. Unfortunately, ipsledmonitors.com doesn't guarantee perfect pixels, although their warranty does cover dead pixels of any amount, but accesories whole doesn't guarantee no backlight bleeding. It seems as if ipsledmonitors.com covers backlight bleeding in their warranty as well, but I'm not entirely sure. Can anyone shed light on this? If so, ipsledmonitors.com would be the no brainer.


----------



## Chalupa

I'm going to be buying one of these in the near future. How does the Matte and Glossy finishes look on these? Which one would you suggest? Also I see all the Qnix going for 300+ and the X-Star at 280. Should I just go with the cheaper one?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> I'm almost positive they are having supply problems. I'm trying to exchange mine and the seller is stalling like crazy.


Agreed all indications are that this is the case. IPSLED cannot presently offer replacements only refunds. Not really surprised as they initially went down in price earlier in the summer despite steadily growing interest and sales. At least compared to when I bought in May. First hit eBay late March/early April iirc.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chalupa*
> 
> I'm going to be buying one of these in the near future. How does the Matte and Glossy finishes look on these? Which one would you suggest? Also I see all the Qnix going for 300+ and the X-Star at 280. Should I just go with the cheaper one?


Matte X-Star ftw! (it's what I have)


----------



## noname2020x

Still having trouble getting the overclock working. I actually got windows to say that it's 96/120hz (though that happened once before and it didnt work again for a long time), but using the online frame test thing, it still says its 60fps and 60hz. In game the FPS with v-sync went to 60 so I thought it was finally working, but at 96 hz it was still at 60fps with v-sync so im confused.

My first post on the issue: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/6730#post_20772775


----------



## jerrolds

Run the Pixel Patcher - restore if you have to, reboot - run it again - then reinstall patched values, save and reboot.

Run CRU - set to LCD Reduced and set resolution to 2560x1440 and refresh to 96hz, 120hz, reboot.

Once you get back into windows you should be able to select the new refresh rates, fire up chrome - head over to blurbusters.com and try the UFO motion tests - it should tell you what hz youre running. But a quick and dirty test is to just move your mouse in a circle against a dark background youll see A LOT more mouse icons trailing your movment.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcoutu17*
> 
> I'm so close to picking one of these up. However, I want to make sure I go with a good seller in case something goes wrong. I'm currently between either ipsledmonitors.com, because of their warranty, and accessories whole on ebay, due to certain monitors having a perfect pixel guarantee. Unfortunately, ipsledmonitors.com doesn't guarantee perfect pixels, although their warranty does cover dead pixels of any amount, but accesories whole doesn't guarantee no backlight bleeding. It seems as if ipsledmonitors.com covers backlight bleeding in their warranty as well, but I'm not entirely sure. Can anyone shed light on this? If so, ipsledmonitors.com would be the no brainer.


I went with ipsledmonitor.com for the same reason, the warranty. Also, just so you know, even without buying their 3 year warranty, you still get the 30 days for a hassle free shipping/RMA service, the 3 year warranty is just an extension of that guarantee.

Even though I paid 20 bucks more since they don't have free shipping, I felt more comfortable due to the reasons above and they respond to emails very fast (took an hour between my first email to getting a response). Note too it still ships from korea even though the company is base in the US.


----------



## jerrolds

How do you exactly remove the metal frame around the panel? I'm hoping i can just add crumpled up paper underneath the panel - if the cause is truly that the weight of it is on one spot near the middle

If not - i'm going to have to remove the metal frame and try and straighten it out - are there any tricks/tips to removing it?


----------



## noname2020x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Run the Pixel Patcher - restore if you have to, reboot - run it again - then reinstall patched values, save and reboot.
> 
> Run CRU - set to LCD Reduced and set resolution to 2560x1440 and refresh to 96hz, 120hz, reboot.
> 
> Once you get back into windows you should be able to select the new refresh rates, fire up chrome - head over to blurbusters.com and try the UFO motion tests - it should tell you what hz youre running. But a quick and dirty test is to just move your mouse in a circle against a dark background youll see A LOT more mouse icons trailing your movment.


I did all of that and it says 60fps and 60hz on the UFO motion tests


----------



## jerrolds

Have you tried deleting all the CRU instances of your monitor? Maybe its not using the active one when it should


----------



## wrigleyvillain

The higher Hz entry(s) needs to be on the top in the little window in CRU. Leave stock 60 Hz last. That is the default Windows will use at startup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> I went with ipsledmonitor.com for the same reason, the warranty. Also, just so you know, even without buying their 3 year warranty, you still get the 30 days for a hassle free shipping/RMA service, the 3 year warranty is just an extension of that guarantee.
> 
> Even though I paid 20 bucks more since they don't have free shipping, I felt more comfortable due to the reasons above and they respond to emails very fast (took an hour between my first email to getting a response). Note too it still ships from korea even though the company is base in the US.


That's all well and good though as I said on the last page they can't do any replacements just refunds at least at this time. Still a better warranty of course and easier to get said refund should you need an RMA, I'm sure. People just shouldn't buy from them thinking they can count on an easy return or two to help ensure a "perfect" one.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl3nnn*
> 
> Which buyer did you guys get it from?


On Amazon from ECOMADE ARENA


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Hey guys, I just purchased a QNIX Tempered Glass QX2710 from accessorieswhole and their shipping email says delivery should be within 15-30 days, but looking on this thread it appears most people are getting theirs much sooner?
> I am in Canada and the order was sent Expedited Int'l. Any idea of whether or not their estimation is correct?
> 
> Edit: Looking at my FedEx tracking on their website it shows my estimated delivery is for 9/13/2013, this Friday!!
> 
> I can't wait!


It told me the same thing. I was suppose to get in 9/11 but got it yesterday.


----------



## noname2020x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Have you tried deleting all the CRU instances of your monitor? Maybe its not using the active one when it should


I have tried resetting yes.

Also, I do have the higher Hz values at the top and it says active*.

Still confused...


----------



## odds

Alright guys, I've officially received my QNIX 2710 from MNW GLOBAL on Amazon.com!

Some good news... some bad news. Take a look!











I've got everything up and running now @ a buttery smooth 120Hz. Backlight bleed is moderate, as you can see from the photo. My only concern is the fact that there is an ENTIRE ROW OF DEAD PIXELS! I've rebooted my machine 3x since plugging in the monitor and that same exact row of pixels has been dead black every single time.

Is there anything I can do to fix this dead row of pixels or will I have to ship it back to MNW GLOBAL?









Thanks guys and happy OC'ing!


----------



## odds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odds*
> 
> Alright guys, I've officially received my QNIX 2710 from MNW GLOBAL on Amazon.com!
> 
> Some good news... some bad news. Take a look!
> 
> 
> 
> I've got everything up and running now @ a buttery smooth 120Hz. Backlight bleed is moderate, as you can see from the photo. My only concern is the fact that there is an ENTIRE ROW OF DEAD PIXELS! I've rebooted my machine 3x since plugging in the monitor and that same exact row of pixels has been dead black every single time.
> 
> Is there anything I can do to fix this dead row of pixels or will I have to ship it back to MNW GLOBAL?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys and happy OC'ing!


Well, I've tried using two different DVI cables and have also tried some dead pixel fixer patterns yet my disappointing row of horizontal dead pixels still remains:



Looks like I'll have to contact MNW GLOBAL and get a replacement!


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odds*
> 
> Well, I've tried using two different DVI cables and have also tried some dead pixel fixer patterns yet my disappointing row of horizontal dead pixels still remains:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I'll have to contact MNW GLOBAL and get a replacement!


I ordered from them too, and had the same problem with the blb. No dead pixels however. Just know that you have the option to file an a-z claim should the seller not cooperate.


----------



## Semus

Yes, absolutely unacceptable. Get an exchange immediately. I would not put up with that at all. Never seen an entire row of dead pixels before...

When I turned mine on for the first time, mine had this really weird shadow on the left, right at the edge and it started about 1/4 of the way up and went till about 1/4 from the top. Very strange. However, once the monitor warmed up, the shadow went away and stayed gone. I'm not so sure they inspect these "pixel perfect" models before they ship them. However, I've had mine a couple days and there are no dead pixels at all. I did, however, have serious backlight bleeding that I had to fix. Apparently the X-Star does not have this BLB issue and it's the same exact panel.

I would seriously consider returning that monitor for a complete refund and going with the X-Star. Try doing some research about it and see if that's a good move.


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> I ordered from them too, and had the same problem with the blb. No dead pixels however. Just know that you have the option to file an a-z claim should the seller not cooperate.


I actually had to file an A-Z claim against Mise Net for not contacting me about my Crossover and the blue tint on the left side of the screen. I'm going to return it for a full refund, but the dealer is being a PITA. I had to call Amazon and file a claim.

Just so you know, if the seller does not cooperate, Amazon will take all of their products off of their website all because of one claim. Isn't that crazy!?!? On top of that, Amazon told me that if the seller doesn't want to cooperate, Amazon would give me a full refund and I wouldn't have to return the monitor lol. that's just nuts. I could end up with a free Crossover if this seller doesn't help me out. Still, I'd like to get the refund ASAP, so I hope this dealer really comes through.


----------



## odds

Thanks Net200777 and Semus, I've already e-mailed the seller but haven't filed an official return form through Amazon.com yet. I wish there were a simple repair I could perform to get it working, but it doesn't look like that's the case.

Anyways, I'll let everybody on here know how the return process goes with MNW GLOBAL.


----------



## rexuefeite

yes,Feel free to add yourself, application form is live .thank you


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> I actually had to file an A-Z claim against Mise Net for not contacting me about my Crossover and the blue tint on the left side of the screen. I'm going to return it for a full refund, but the dealer is being a PITA. I had to call Amazon and file a claim.
> 
> Just so you know, if the seller does not cooperate, Amazon will take all of their products off of their website all because of one claim. Isn't that crazy!?!? On top of that, Amazon told me that if the seller doesn't want to cooperate, Amazon would give me a full refund and I wouldn't have to return the monitor lol. that's just nuts. I could end up with a free Crossover if this seller doesn't help me out. Still, I'd like to get the refund ASAP, so I hope this dealer really comes through.


Amazon does it right most of the time when it comes to customer service (and are a lot better than most companies), even when they make mistakes, which is why I prefer to purchase from them when feasible.


----------



## gl3nnn

Any more views on tempered glass monitors? Is dust getting behind the glass a common problem?


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Purchase a squaretrade warranty with accidental damage protection. And file a claim after like a month or something so it dosnt look shady.


Lol thanks for the suggestion, I just have too much of a conscious to do something like that. I think I'm just going to continue to watch this thread to see peoples posts about different sellers and how they are getting treated if they have to return their monitors do to issues before I bite the bullet again.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Well i got my QNIX today - and im able to hit 135hz, although theres some artifacting. Going back down to 120hz permanently which is nice. Looking for decent color profiles for glossy panels in dark room environment. So far not as nice looking as my Tempest or CrossOver w/ color profiles.
> 
> The backlight bleed is terrible though.
> 
> Going to attempt the tape mod fix, ive already opened it up to replace the stand...but i have to remove the metal frame around the panel as well? Is it easy to just pop off?


Just finished with my tape mod - and its a lot better, but i could still improve on bending the metal frame...maybe ill try again another time, took me just under an hour and a half to take it apart, unplug the insides, bend the frame by hand, tape mod it, and put it all back together.

Here it is at middle brightness


And at full brightness (120hz)


----------



## timaishu

I almost wish I never read this thread and jus bought it without ever looking here. Because of you guys, for the first time ever, I noticed that my monitor(my qnix comes tomorrow) that Ive had for 6 years has BLB. Its not bad at all, way better than the pictures seen here, but Ive never noticed it before. -_-


----------



## Stylook

Hi,

Apologize if this question has been answered. Could the Crossover brand monitor be overclocked? The price in Ebay for Qnix and X-Star have increased, sigh. Please feedback on Crossover Monitor.

thank you.


----------



## Massive17

I got a PP Glossy X-Star from Dreamseller and 0 dead pixels, but did get some backlight bleed.

I set it to 96hz and everything worked great.

I just did the same method with CRU and 120hz and it seems to have worked. If I don't see any artifacts, does that mean I'm good to go? Do I need to do anything else ? I see a lot of people tweaking their setting and I was even looking into the front porch method so It can't be as easy as setting the refresh rate to 120HZ in CRU and hitting save, right?

I verified the refresh rate using the UFO Test in my browser and it showed 120hz.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stylook*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Apologize if this question has been answered. Could the Crossover brand monitor be overclocked? The price in Ebay for Qnix and X-Star have increased, sigh. Please feedback on Crossover Monitor.
> 
> thank you.


It can be, but the native refresh rate stays at 60Hz. So these are still superior.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stylook*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Apologize if this question has been answered. Could the Crossover brand monitor be overclocked? The price in Ebay for Qnix and X-Star have increased, sigh. Please feedback on Crossover Monitor.
> 
> thank you.


Single input can be overclocked (at last check) to about 66hz. This is a hard limit - the controller in the monitor cannot handle greater than 67hz. None of the other CrossOvers have been shown to overclock.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> I got a PP Glossy X-Star from Dreamseller and 0 dead pixels, but did get some backlight bleed.
> 
> I set it to 96hz and everything worked great.
> 
> I just did the same method with CRU and 120hz and it seems to have worked. If I don't see any artifacts, does that mean I'm good to go? Do I need to do anything else ? I see a lot of people tweaking their setting and I was even looking into the front porch method so It can't be as easy as setting the refresh rate to 120HZ in CRU and hitting save, right?
> 
> I verified the refresh rate using the UFO Test in my browser and it showed 120hz.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Oh oh.. Looks like even with the front porch method my monitor still cant fully handle 120hz.. (didnt test new cable or GPU yet though). Everything has been working flawless for about 5 days that I noticed, GPU intensive games, web browsing, etc. I was playing a game Civ 5 last night and this one graphic comes up every in-game year and I noticed a staticy vertical line, not horizontal like last time, it was in a quick info box for the game, the info box goes away and everything seems fine again. And its only in the box and about an inch long, maybe the color has something to do with it? Either way, I down-clocked to 96hz and the line was not there, so I figured it must be the hz.
> 
> Now I'm on 118hz with 452.54Mhz pixel clock down from 459.86mhz pixel clock. That vertical line is not there anymore, so I guess it worked. I could not get the pixel clock any lower without lines all over the screen on 120hz. I have not tried a different cable or a new GPU yet, just wanted to give people my experience. I dont use this monitor for movies so Im not concerned with keeping my hz in check for the pull-down effect.


This is my post from the other day.. I ended up changing DVI ports and it has been perfect since. So put your PC through the ringer, play GPU intensive games, etc. That line was the only artifact I had and I didnt notice it until about 5 days later. I also need to do the front porch method because just setting CRU to 120hz didnt work for me, I had about 12 horizontal lines on my W8 start screen originally.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stylook*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Apologize if this question has been answered. Could the Crossover brand monitor be overclocked? The price in Ebay for Qnix and X-Star have increased, sigh. Please feedback on Crossover Monitor.
> 
> thank you.


I know a couple users that have bought the Overlord OC PCB have been able to rig it up with the CrossOver LED-P (but it was not easy, it doesnt drop it like Catleaps or Shimians) - you might wanna visit their forums. Its around $150 for the PCB i believe.

Otherwise, almost postiive that CrossOver IPS's do not overclock past 66hz - they lack the required hardware.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

About time they went up in price...I mean I'm not _glad_ (even though I paid $317 in May) but it sorta defied logic that they hadn't.

Edit: Likely finally driven by recent tighter supply but still. Shimians and Crossovers etc were at least $400 like all last year and past until these PLS hit long after the initial "Catleap overclocking craze" (which were cheaper in their time).

Edit2: Just looked and the cheapest single input dvi Crossover is still $399.


----------



## Geglamash

Talk about bizarre.
Woke up this morning, and panicked for a moment thinking the LCD has been damaged/cracked somehow.

Turns out, there's a clear piece of glass over the LCD (I ordered glossy, so I was a little baffled; I didn't think anything was overlaid on the LCD)
and the cheap adhesive holding the glass up had failed, causing the glass to slip.

Took the bezel off, and removed the glass piece. Everything is A-OK now. Weird.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Sounds like you maybe you got a tempered glass unit instead?


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Ok, so my monitor arrived 2 days earlier than expected and I am ECSTATIC! I can't find a single visible bad pixel anywhere, and absolutely no visible BLB! Accessorieswhole is the best!








I'm busy for most of the day but later tonight I'll post the necessary bits to join the club and try to get some pics up in the next couple of days.

I haven't tried OC'ng yet, but I'll post and let you all know how it goes! Best 300 dollars ever spent!


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Ok, so my monitor arrived 2 days earlier than expected and I am ECSTATIC! I can't find a single visible bad pixel anywhere, and absolutely no visible BLB! Accessorieswhole is the best!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm busy for most of the day but later tonight I'll post the necessary bits to join the club and try to get some pics up in the next couple of days.
> 
> I haven't tried OC'ng yet, but I'll post and let you all know how it goes! Best 300 dollars ever spent!


Which version did you go with? The Qnix or X-Star? And yes, I have to agree with you that this is the best $300 investment I ever made. OC'ed to 96HZ and I LOVE it. My new video card arrived today (GTX760 SC 4GB) and MAN does it really crank out the FPS in all my games. I might actually try 120HZ at some point, but I am really liking 96HZ atm.

Good luck with your new purchase and let us know how it turns out for ya.


----------



## tomKPZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomKPZ*
> 
> Update:
> Holy motherloving ****. I just got a bill in the mail today from FedEx for "duties, tax, customs, and fees" after my monitor was delivered. dream-seller puts "FREE EXPRESS SHIPPING" in the title, however it is neither "FREE" nor "EXPRESS." How does eBay let him get away with this?
> Please, please, PLEASE stay FAR away from dream-seller.


Update:
Well, it appears I now have much more to worry about than my stupid screen burn. I was using the monitor last night, everything working fine. Then I went to bed and when I woke up it looked like this:






So far I've tried switching the monitor's DVI and power cables with the ones on my good monitor (the Qnix), rebooting the machine, and I've even disassembled and reassembled the entire monitor to no avail. I'll have to contact dream-seller for a replacement hopefully. I'll keep my fingers crossed.


----------



## jerrolds

That sucks....how long have you had that monitor, and what refresh rate were you going for?


----------



## tomKPZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> That sucks....how long have you had that monitor, and what refresh rate were you going for?


I've had it about a week. It OCed to 120Hz, but I ran it at 60Hz for the past few days before this happened.


----------



## Massive17

Yea, I noticed that the brightness went down slightly when I hit 120hz.

But yea, I'll test it this weekend and see how it goes. I know many people can't just set the refresh rate 120hz and have it work, but is there a chance that it's all I need to do if I don't see any artifacts or issues? Have people done that before?

Also, I didn't see much difference going from 96 to 120 so I may keep it at 96.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> This is my post from the other day.. I ended up changing DVI ports and it has been perfect since. So put your PC through the ringer, play GPU intensive games, etc. That line was the only artifact I had and I didnt notice it until about 5 days later. I also need to do the front porch method because just setting CRU to 120hz didnt work for me, I had about 12 horizontal lines on my W8 start screen originally.


----------



## Kisaha2Kisaha

Hi from Athens,Greece, EU(still).
I got a pixel perfect Qnix from AccessoriesWhole. Paid 285+15 (extra for EMS shipping) = 300Euros (400$ or 253GBP).
I believe it is pixel perfect (I couldn't see anything) and the bleeding - I believe that- is very minimal. I ordered it Friday night, Sunday afternoon was in Athens airport and I collected it yesterday (because of Greece's postal service difficulty to communicate!).
I am very pleased so far, the matte coating is making it less crisp than glossy monitors I am familiar with, but it was the right decision because the sun is unbelievable bright in Greece, and I'm always working (editing) with open windows (avid smoker!). I communicated with a few ebay sellers, accessorieswhole seemed like the perfect fit. Wasn't very happy about the extra 15euros, but he would send the monitor anyway, I just was polite and fair and send him the extra money (which i'm regreting doing so right now!), as I believe he indeed sent me a quite good monitor(the carton seemed open, he must had checked).
I was also very lucky with custom fees, but that was the reason I wanted EMS from the beginning. While friends had very bad expreriences with FedEX, UPS, and the such (e.g they asked 150$ for a 50$ watch, 100$ for a 70$ dress, [email protected] for a 150$ chinese smartphone e.t.c), it seems that EMS has a milder policy.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Talk about bizarre.
> Woke up this morning, and panicked for a moment thinking the LCD has been damaged/cracked somehow.
> 
> Turns out, there's a clear piece of glass over the LCD (I ordered glossy, so I was a little baffled; I didn't think anything was overlaid on the LCD)
> and the cheap adhesive holding the glass up had failed, causing the glass to slip.
> 
> Took the bezel off, and removed the glass piece. Everything is A-OK now. Weird.


I had the exact same thing happen to me. Freaked me out. Luckily I was already returning it for another defect. They sent the wrong one unfortunately. I'm hoping they send the correct one this time. How well does it sit in the casing without the glass? Is the screen underneath cleanable?


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> Which version did you go with? The Qnix or X-Star? And yes, I have to agree with you that this is the best $300 investment I ever made. OC'ed to 96HZ and I LOVE it. My new video card arrived today (GTX760 SC 4GB) and MAN does it really crank out the FPS in all my games. I might actually try 120HZ at some point, but I am really liking 96HZ atm.
> 
> Good luck with your new purchase and let us know how it turns out for ya.


It would seem that I am one of the (very) lucky ones. I went with the Qnix and not only do I have zero stuck pixels, and no blb, I just tested my OC and I can OC to 120hz without issue!









Perhaps it was my rapport with the seller that helped me through, perhaps it was the prayer, or perhaps it was just the luck of the draw; whatever it is!

I heard of a few people having issues with the high oc frying their ports, is this really something I should be worrying about?

I'm gonna have a few shots of vodka to celebrate!


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> It would seem that I am one of the (very) lucky ones. I went with the Qnix and not only do I have zero stuck pixels, and no blb, I just tested my OC and I can OC to 120hz without issue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps it was my rapport with the seller that helped me through, perhaps it was the prayer, or perhaps it was just the luck of the draw; whatever it is!
> 
> I heard of a few people having issues with the high oc frying their ports, is this really something I should be worrying about?
> 
> I'm gonna have a few shots of vodka to celebrate!


Frying which ports? I had never heard of that before. Perhaps I should reconsider OC'ing lol.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Perhaps it was my rapport with the seller that helped me through, perhaps it was the prayer, or perhaps it was just the luck of the draw; whatever it is!


Cute...but more like basic luck. There is no way these sellers open the boxes and hook these things up. Even just some of the time.

And I thought only Russians shot straight vodka...man hope that bottle has been in the freezer at least.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cute...but more like basic luck. There is no way these sellers open the boxes and hook these things up. Even just some of the time.
> 
> And I thought only Russians shot straight vodka...man hope that bottle has been in the freezer at least.


I doubt all of the sellers that say they test monitors are lying. Most of the perfect pixel purchases that have been reported lately have had no dead pixels, so I think there is probably some testing going on.

There are videos on youtube of some random people testing Qnix monitors too. It was posted somewhere in the thread.


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> I had the exact same thing happen to me. Freaked me out. Luckily I was already returning it for another defect. They sent the wrong one unfortunately. I'm hoping they send the correct one this time. How well does it sit in the casing without the glass? Is the screen underneath cleanable?


Everything is the same.
LCD is cleanable just like any other LCD


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> Frying which ports? I had never heard of that before. Perhaps I should reconsider OC'ing lol.


Yeah, I have absolutely no idea; It was just a comment on 120hz.net and I might have misunderstood the fellow.
Thought it would be best to ask here!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cute...but more like basic luck. There is no way these sellers open the boxes and hook these things up. Even just some of the time.


Aren't there a few posts on this thread suggesting it's happened?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> And I thought only Russians shot straight vodka...man hope that bottle has been in the freezer at least.


You've got that wrong; Russians and Albertans! And no, it was warm at the time but it's in the freezer now lol. I'll take it either way.









At any rate, it seems I was wrong about 120hz being solid. I hadn't yet put it through the paces and after loading up FFXIV I started getting the artifacts. 96hz is 100% so I'll go slowly up from there and see where it ends up.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Suggesting that what has happened exactly?


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Suggesting that what has happened exactly?


Suggesting that some of the monitors had been opened and tested.

On a different note, I can get to 120hz with no artifacts on the desktop, but significant artifacts in the top left of the screen.

I can get to 115hz with very minimal artifacts in the top left only showing up infrequently at irregular intervals, in other words - I can live with it. Happily.
But can my monitor live with it?
Does running a monitor with minimal artifacts put the monitor more at risk of a shortened lifespan or any other kind of problems than if there were none?

Thanks.


----------



## TheSilentCircus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Suggesting that some of the monitors had been opened and tested.
> 
> On a different note, I can get to 120hz with no artifacts on the desktop, but significant artifacts in the top left of the screen.
> 
> I can get to 115hz with very minimal artifacts in the top left only showing up infrequently at irregular intervals, in other words - I can live with it. Happily.
> But can my monitor live with it?
> Does running a monitor with minimal artifacts put the monitor more at risk of a shortened lifespan or any other kind of problems than if there were none?
> 
> Thanks.


Had that problem too (top right of my the monitor for me) until I did LCD Reduced in CRU. Assuming you have you haven't tried that yet that is.


----------



## Stylook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It can be, but the native refresh rate stays at 60Hz. So these are still superior.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Single input can be overclocked (at last check) to about 66hz. This is a hard limit - the controller in the monitor cannot handle greater than 67hz. None of the other CrossOvers have been shown to overclock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I know a couple users that have bought the Overlord OC PCB have been able to rig it up with the CrossOver LED-P (but it was not easy, it doesnt drop it like Catleaps or Shimians) - you might wanna visit their forums. Its around $150 for the PCB i believe.
> 
> Otherwise, almost postiive that CrossOver IPS's do not overclock past 66hz - they lack the required hardware.


Thanks guys. That settles it, will go for Qnix or X-star, well I saw one seller is selling price X-Star cheaper than the rest is Dream-Seller. I heard a bit of complaints buying from him/her, someone also says stay away from him. Any feedback? I just want to see if I got a balance view.


----------



## timaishu

Got my QNIX!

Cant believe how quick it got here. It was shipped Tuesday 3AM PST and it arrived today Wednesday at 5PM PST. INSANE!

Anyways first impressions are good. Ive only spotted one dead pixel, but its so small once I sat back I lost sight of it. I don't see any BLB yet, but I havnt turned off the lights to test, but with this websites backdrop plus my lighted room, I cant see any BLB.


----------



## ConservingClips

First post from a long time lurker and this thread has convinced me to finally upgrade my monitor! A big thank you to everyone who contributed their time and thoughts to the reviews of the actual panels, eBay sellers, and performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stylook*
> 
> Thanks guys. That settles it, will go for Qnix or X-star, well I saw one seller is selling price X-Star cheaper than the rest is Dream-Seller. I heard a bit of complaints buying from him/her, someone also says stay away from him. Any feedback? I just want to see if I got a balance view.


I went to purchase a X-Star from dream-seller today and PayPal marked the transaction and put a security hold on it. After multiple calls and numerous attempts to purchase, the PayPal rep told me that the seller (dream-seller) has a high volume of disputes recently and it automatically marked the transaction for hold. I asked him if this meant I probably shouldn't purchase from the seller and he said "yep" then moved on.

I noticed in the past week that the Qnix prices increased significantly so I was trying to get dream-seller's X-Star for a deal but am now having second thoughts about it. Would anyone care to contribute some input on this or has anyone ordered from dream-seller recently?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Got my QNIX!
> 
> Cant believe how quick it got here. It was shipped Tuesday 3AM PST and it arrived today Wednesday at 5PM PST. INSANE!
> 
> Anyways first impressions are good. Ive only spotted one dead pixel, but its so small once I sat back I lost sight of it. I don't see any BLB yet, but I havnt turned off the lights to test, but with this websites backdrop plus my lighted room, I cant see any BLB.


How was your experience with IPSLEDMonitors.com? Seems positive!


----------



## Massive17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> It would seem that I am one of the (very) lucky ones. I went with the Qnix and not only do I have zero stuck pixels, and no blb, I just tested my OC and I can OC to 120hz without issue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps it was my rapport with the seller that helped me through, perhaps it was the prayer, or perhaps it was just the luck of the draw; whatever it is!
> 
> I heard of a few people having issues with the high oc frying their ports, is this really something I should be worrying about?
> 
> I'm gonna have a few shots of vodka to celebrate!


Congrats!

How did you get to 120hz? Did you just set it to 120 in CRU and that's it?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well actually there are/can be a few nuances or other details but generally now that is it as you no longer have to patch the drivers to Test Mode. Make sure higher Hz entry on the top in CRU. Might also have to select 120 or whatever in your GPU CP too though maybe not (I didn't have to using CRU and patched ATI drivers; no OC at present for me). All this info like most else in post #1 of this thread btw.

Your first hint it "worked" (barring artifacts of course) is a darker overall image, especially at the higher pixel clocks of 120+.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Suggesting that some of the monitors had been opened and tested.


Well they'd like us to think they do but I just can't see how they actually do. I don't know; I guess I shouldn't speculate across the board. But, really, if _any_ actual powered inspection is going on it's at the factory only is my bet. That's where the Perfect Pixel stickers on the box originate, at any rate. I had thought that perhaps IPSLED guys did some inspections but plenty from there have had the same bleed and what not.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ConservingClips*
> 
> First post from a long time lurker and this thread has convinced me to finally upgrade my monitor! A big thank you to everyone who contributed their time and thoughts to the reviews of the actual panels, eBay sellers, and performance.
> I went to purchase a X-Star from dream-seller today and PayPal marked the transaction and put a security hold on it. After multiple calls and numerous attempts to purchase, the PayPal rep told me that the seller (dream-seller) has a high volume of disputes recently and it automatically marked the transaction for hold. I asked him if this meant I probably shouldn't purchase from the seller and he said "yep" then moved on.
> 
> I noticed in the past week that the Qnix prices increased significantly so I was trying to get dream-seller's X-Star for a deal but am now having second thoughts about it. Would anyone care to contribute some input on this or has anyone ordered from dream-seller recently?
> How was your experience with IPSLEDMonitors.com? Seems positive!


Very good *knocks on wood*. Quick email responses, fast as hell shipping and far the monitor looks perfect. I am almost afraid to test for BLB and dead pixels, but I feel it would be in my best interest. But so far from normal useage and games, I have no noticed no blb and I absolutely cannot see any dead pixels from my sitting distance.

Overclocked it to 120hz and didn't notice any weird lines like some users reported. I am going to leave it at 96hz for now.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes and it was actually very likely a blessing in disguise that you weren't able to send dream-seller any money. Avoid.


----------



## Semus

My new X-Star just shipped out to me tonight. I am REALLY hoping it will be here by Friday. We'll see. If not, no big deal. They are usually very quick, though.

Will post my results when it arrives. Might do another unboxing and pictures again just so everyone can see what happens. This Qnix has been an absolute joy so far (only had it three days, though). I just purchased a new video card that arrived today and I wanted to take advantage of it with a dual monitor setup. Especially since I do a lot of 3D modelling and programming. This new card is a beast even though it's not a Titan. Still, for a GTX 760, it rocks. I have it a bit OC'ed even thought it says it's a Super Clocked version. I'm so glad I purchased the 4GB version.

Anyhow, enough about my video card. I should have some pictures for you all on Friday of the new X-Star DP2710. I really hope the black light bleeding isn't serious. I really don't want to have to go through what I did with my Qnix. You'd think they would at least turn on the panels when they are in the plastic casing just to see if the black light bleeding is an issue. Mine was really bad and pinching at the bottom and top. Bleh.


----------



## paulkon

Did you go for the matte or glossy panel?


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Did you go for the matte or glossy panel?


Glossy panel. I know some people prefer a matte screen, but once I saw the image quality and the colors pop I really wanted to stick with glossy.

Also, I just purchased the last DP2710 Glossy Pixel Perfect from Amazon. They expect more around September 20th. Maybe you can still get them from Ebay.


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSilentCircus*
> 
> Had that problem too (top right of my the monitor for me) until I did LCD Reduced in CRU. Assuming you have you haven't tried that yet that is.


Thanks, I had forgotten to try the Reduced setting and it appears that has done it!







120hz verified, with no real noticeable loss in color/quality, and zero artifacts.
This time for real lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Congrats!
> 
> How did you get to 120hz? Did you just set it to 120 in CRU and that's it?


I had to install the driver patch to get it to work with my gtx580, but that was pretty much it. I chose to go the CRU route as it is a little less hassle than using NCP imo and it works great.

Good Luck!


----------



## timaishu

Just noticed after overclocking my qnix to 96hz, youtube videos are a solid green.. Any ideas?


----------



## hueys

What do you guys clean your matte screen with? Will 70pct isopropyl alcohol be harmful to the coating at all?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Just noticed after overclocking my qnix to 96hz, youtube videos are a solid green.. Any ideas?


I heard you have to disable a setting in flash player or something like that. Im sure you can google search "green screen when overclocked monitor" and get some relevant results. It is a common issue with OCing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hueys*
> 
> What do you guys clean your matte screen with? Will 70pct isopropyl alcohol be harmful to the coating at all?


That may be too potent. I would def. try to dilute it more. TBH, I just use water and a microfiber cloth.


----------



## thekeebler

First off I'd like to say I'm very grateful for this thread, it's an invaluable resource for milking my QNIX 2710 for all it's worth.

So I've seen some comments of people saying they run a crossfire 7850 setup (with a single bridge) just fine. Can any of those people chime in and maybe give me some advice? I completed my dual 7850 setup before finding that it is highly recommended that you have 2 bridges connected to overclock this monitor. Ive tried a few games while overclocked to 120 with partial success (Arkham City has minimal glitching/artifacts, FFXIV is worse but serviceable) but others shut down on start-up/ have extreme horizontal lines and artifacting (Bioshock Infinite/ Witcher 2)

I have the latest drivers and followed the instructions. If anyone has any advice or has had any breakthroughs on getting this to work more stable I would really appreciate it.


----------



## WOD35

I read there were typhoons in China where these monitors are made and that's why the sellers got behind and I'm wondering if that's also the reason for the recent price increase. Now at roughly $320, $50 more than they once were. Narrowing the gap between them and the ~$450 29" 2560x1080p'ers. I can't make up my mind.


----------



## Massive17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Thanks, I had forgotten to try the Reduced setting and it appears that has done it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz verified, with no real noticeable loss in color/quality, and zero artifacts.
> This time for real lol
> I had to install the driver patch to get it to work with my gtx580, but that was pretty much it. I chose to go the CRU route as it is a little less hassle than using NCP imo and it works great.
> 
> Good Luck!


I'm running GTX 680 SLI, but I haven't patched my drivers.

I just went into the CRU and changed it to 96hz and everything has been great.

Yesterday I did the same and changed it to 120hz. Again everything was OK, but the screen got a little dim. What does patching the drivers do and If I don't see any artifacting am I good to go or do I need to change any other settings?


----------



## gl0ry

As weird as it sounds, have any of you opted to leave the bezel off?

I used electric tape on the front and inside of the aluminum panel bezel and it look amazing. I've basically left the front half of the bezel off while leaving the back one on to mount to my VESA arms. I know it may seem kinda scary to have the panels literally held together by clips, but they seem quite secure and I have the panels sitting flat on my desk with the vesa arms as support.

I don't know I'll take some pictures tomorrow and let you guys judge, but I feel like it gives it the nice sleek look of the debezled without having to go through too much trouble. I actually prefer having the back of the casing on for functionality reasons, but I may use something to cover it up so it doesn't look as weird.


----------



## Stylook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yes and it was actually very likely a blessing in disguise that you weren't able to send dream-seller any money. Avoid.


Well, it seems that this seller (dream seller) falls into too much inconsistency lately. So, I would also avoid it for now. Thank you for those who gives feed back.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hueys*
> 
> What do you guys clean your matte screen with? Will 70pct isopropyl alcohol be harmful to the coating at all?


I'm pretty sure you should NOT use alchohol of any kind on your monitor.


----------



## Moragg

I just use a microfibre cloth. And if I feel a patch is particularly dirty I just breath on it, and use that very light film of moisture to help clean. Nothing potentially harmful.


----------



## gl3nnn

How do you tell which kind of 3rd party monitor stands will fit the the Korean monitors?


----------



## jerrolds

Distilled water filled spray bottle with microfiber cloth makes for a streak free monitor


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl3nnn*
> 
> How do you tell which kind of 3rd party monitor stands will fit the the Korean monitors?


It has a VESA mount on rear (four holes on back).

As for the green screen with Flash I thought this was not an issue anymore as it was the patched test mode drivers that broke HDCP. The fix before was to right-click on the green and choose option for disable hardware acceleration.


----------



## Semus

So, I just checked my shipping status and it looks as if the seller used FedEx instead of UPS. Their estimated delivery date is next Wednesday the 18th. Wow, that's considerably more time than I'm used to. I'm not going to complain, since it's coming from Korea, but if they had chosen UPS it would have arrived tomorrow. Oh well. Can't say that I am really all that disappointed since I already have one monitor already. Was just looking forward to using the second one this weekend. Oh well, good things come to those who wait.


----------



## jerrolds

Yup any 100mm VESA stand will work - I'm using an Ergotron stand myself. It was decently priced, but im sure you can find better looking stands.


----------



## Semus

Here's the stand I bought. Although, in hindsight I think it would have been better to go with a triple monitor VESA mounting system since that's what I am eventually going to have (3 monitors).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052ATODM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## jerrolds

I had a triple mount stand - it was terrible, flipping between portrait <-> landscape and positioning just right was a pain


----------



## timaishu

Update on my QNIX:

So far I have not found any dead pixels. I had one initially, but it might have been dust as I cannot find it anymore. Back light bleed is minimal. I did the black screen lights off test and could see it on the top center and bottom right, but it was so minimal it doesn't bother me at all. Don't notice it during normal usage or when gaming. Is there a risk I could make it worse if I open it up to do the tape mod? It would be nice if I could eliminate it completely.

As far as overclocking, I hit 96hz no problem but I got a vertical line at 120hz when playing games so I backed it down to 96hz; again, totally fine with me. 96 is better than 60, Im not gonna get but hurt if I cant hit 120.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Update on my QNIX:
> 
> So far I have not found any dead pixels. I had one initially, but it might have been dust as I cannot find it anymore. Back light bleed is minimal. I did the black screen lights off test and could see it on the top center and bottom right, but it was so minimal it doesn't bother me at all. Don't notice it during normal usage or when gaming. Is there a risk I could make it worse if I open it up to do the tape mod? It would be nice if I could eliminate it completely.
> 
> As far as overclocking, I hit 96hz no problem but I got a vertical line at 120hz when playing games so I backed it down to 96hz; again, totally fine with me. 96 is better than 60, Im not gonna get but hurt if I cant hit 120.










Do you even read? Lowering your timings in CRU/trying LCD Reduced will fix your issues. Just search for "front porch" or "timings" in this thread, and look for posts by Spartan f8


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you even read? Lowering your timings in CRU/trying LCD Reduced will fix your issues. Just search for "front porch" or "timings" in this thread, and look for posts by Spartan f8


Haha, now that you mention it I DO remember reading something about that, I just forgot. I will check it out, thanks for the reminder.


----------



## Mutantx

will i have any issues powering this brand with an MSI (ati) r7950? a reseller tells me it may get booting errors


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mutantx*
> 
> will i have any issues powering this brand with an MSI (ati) r7950? a reseller tells me it may get booting errors


You won't have any issues with a 7950.


----------



## paulkon

1-pixel wide vertical lines on the display means that I should increase or decrease the pixel clock via CRU?


----------



## jerrolds

You may not get BIOS/Windows Load if you have more than 2 displays connected to the same card - my 7970 + 2ndary Monitor + HDTV, QNIX only gets off standby once windows loads. Works fine with just QNIX + HDTV though.


----------



## Mutantx

arrr sorry if i wasn't clear - i will in fact be going via hdmi into a 2nd screen, if that will cause any issues


----------



## shw89

I'm about to switch to Linux, possibly mint or ubuntu. Is there something similar to CRU I can oc my monitor?


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Yesterday I did the same and changed it to 120hz. Again everything was OK, but the screen got a little dim. What does patching the drivers do and If I don't see any artifacting am I good to go or do I need to change any other settings?


I didn't even read up on what the patch set out to accomplish, I just installed it because I couldn't get my OC to list in NVCP and I had read that 500/600's needed the full patch.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> So, I just checked my shipping status and it looks as if the seller used FedEx instead of UPS. Their estimated delivery date is next Wednesday the 18th. Wow, that's considerably more time than I'm used to. I'm not going to complain, since it's coming from Korea, but if they had chosen UPS it would have arrived tomorrow. Oh well. Can't say that I am really all that disappointed since I already have one monitor already. Was just looking forward to using the second one this weekend. Oh well, good things come to those who wait.


As I mentioned a couple of pages back my seller (accessorieswhole) listed the same, but upon checking the tracking number at FedEx I seen that it was instead scheduled to be here within a week; and in truth it arrived in 3 days.
Check your tracking and expect it within days.


----------



## Zareth

Just got my qnix evo 2710 yesterday, ordered a perfect pixel from accessories whole.
Absolutely blown away.
The build quality is a lot better than I was expecting and better than the pictures led me to believe.
No dead pixels, no backlight bleed except for an incredibly faint faint bit in lower left corner.
Panel is centered and not sagging.

At first assembly I could not screw the base into the arm well enough without finding a screwdriver, the attached wire that you use to turn it was too weak and broke off when I tried any harder.
I didn't notice that it wasn't in all the way until I realized the monitor was angled to one side.

It is huge. Way bigger than I imagined.
Have not tried ocing yet but so far seems plenty smooth for games like dota 2.

Also minecraft blew my mind at this red. So big.

edit: I read a few complaints about the dvi cable not plugging in properly due to the screws being too short, I thought mine wouldn't but it just takes a good push with a flat head screwdriver while turning it and they caught the threads. I screwed it in quite tight and I bet a lot of issues are from people not having the cable in all the way.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

I've owned my Qnix for about a month now, I was running it at 60Hz just to make sure I didn't encounter any issues.

Today I tried overclocking, and it got right up to 120Hz with the included cable, no issues









I did not use any patches, just ran the CRU utility with "LCD - Reduced" timings for both 96Hz and 120Hz, then applied them via the Nvidia Control Panel.


(please excuse the cable management and horrible picture quality







)

Would it be safe to run a 24/7 96Hz overclock, and then use 120Hz for gaming? Or should desktop usage be 60Hz, and then 120Hz for gaming? I've read that the pixel clock at 96Hz isn't technically even "out of spec".


----------



## coelacanth

nm google answered my question.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mutantx*
> 
> arrr sorry if i wasn't clear - i will in fact be going via hdmi into a 2nd screen, if that will cause any issues


I run my second monitor via hdmi on the same GPU and I can't OC my qnix using the DVI on the same GPU


----------



## paulkon

Does the displayport model overclock to 96Hz - 120Hz?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Does the displayport model overclock to 96Hz - 120Hz?


nope, sadly not.


----------



## paulkon

I got my second QNIX today and thought I'd try out the displayport with my adapter and the adapter essentially caps it off at 60Hz. I literally can't see the other resolutions (96Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz) that I added via CRU. If I disconnect it from the adapter and connect it directly to the dvi port then the resolutions show up just fine and it goes right to 120Hz.

I guess I'll just run the third monitor when it comes in @ 60Hz on via the adapter until I upgrade and get 2 new cards for SLI. That would be an issue if I were gaming though.

I wonder if nvidia is even going to continue with 9xx after the 8xx series starts to roll out. Maybe they'll jump straight to Titan and continue from there?...


----------



## leafonthewind

Tempted to bite the bullet and purchase one of the X-stars from dreamseller. However, I see a lot of people having different issues, is it worth the headache?


----------



## Massive17

I bought mine from him and because of the wait he sent me a PP monitor and it looks good, but it did take some time.

I emailed him the other day telling him I wanted to get another one and he said he's probably not going to ship anything for a couple weeks or more so keep that in mind if you're going to order from him.

I placed an order for my second monitor (couldn't stand my 1080p Samsung after I got my X-Star) from a different seller. Forget his name, but people in this thread recommended him so I hope he send it out soon.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leafonthewind*
> 
> Tempted to bite the bullet and purchase one of the X-stars from dreamseller. However, I see a lot of people having different issues, is it worth the headache?


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> I've owned my Qnix for about a month now, I was running it at 60Hz just to make sure I didn't encounter any issues.
> 
> Today I tried overclocking, and it got right up to 120Hz with the included cable, no issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not use any patches, just ran the CRU utility with "LCD - Reduced" timings for both 96Hz and 120Hz, then applied them via the Nvidia Control Panel.
> 
> 
> (please excuse the cable management and horrible picture quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Would it be safe to run a 24/7 96Hz overclock, and then use 120Hz for gaming? Or should desktop usage be 60Hz, and then 120Hz for gaming? I've read that the pixel clock at 96Hz isn't technically even "out of spec".


I've been running it 24/7 at 120Hz with no issues at all.









No image retention or anything!! love this monitor!!


----------



## Massive17

I jinxed it. The seller said they're all out of X-stars.

I wanted to have 2 matching monitors. He offered me a QNIX. Does anyone haven an X-Star and a QNIX? Are they identical to each other(other than the logo).

I don't want to have them by each other and have one brighter than the other or look different, I dunno maybe my OCD is kicking in.

What do you guys think?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leafonthewind*
> 
> Tempted to bite the bullet and purchase one of the X-stars from dreamseller. However, I see a lot of people having different issues, is it worth the headache?


Yep! I got mine and love it.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> I jinxed it. The seller said they're all out of X-stars.
> 
> I wanted to have 2 matching monitors. He offered me a QNIX. Does anyone haven an X-Star and a QNIX? Are they identical to each other(other than the logo).
> 
> I don't want to have them by each other and have one brighter than the other or look different, I dunno maybe my OCD is kicking in.
> 
> What do you guys think?


As far as we know, they're the same. Same panel, same bezel, etc etc. Overclocking results are less tested with the X-Star.

Personally, it'd bother me to have 2 "identical" monitors with mismatched logos haha.

But as far as the brightness/color and such, you'd see just as much variation from X-Star to X-Star as X-Star to Qnix. Some panels simply have warm/cool tints and might look slightly different than another of the exact same panel


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leafonthewind*
> 
> Tempted to bite the bullet and purchase one of the X-stars from dreamseller. However, I see a lot of people having different issues, is it worth the headache?


I would say it is from a personal standpoint. I would also like to point out that you have 687+ pages to help you with the headache


----------



## zenvent

Just wanted to share my experience real quick. First post here.

I read through many pages of this forum, did tons of research and eventually it lead me to buy an *X-Star from Dream-Seller for ~$279*. I received the monitor in just three days. I opened it up, set it up and [email protected]#$, there's huge defect:

*Defect Images:*
http://i.imgur.com/jFBIf81.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Yu2Z7Yc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kkY2WBx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/By7tJZ5.jpg

They look much worse in person.

So far Dream Seller has offered to refund my purchase, provided I pay to ship the monitor back. The gave me the details on what I needed to do, Fedex estimated the shipping to be around $300. Yep, more than I even paid for the monitor. I'm hoping there's something Dream Seller can do to get the shipping price down. Otherwise I'm not sure what I'm going to do, currently considering getting a square trade insurance policy and claiming it down the road. But who knows if that'll work since I did not get the perfect pixel model. *What would you guys do in my situation?*

The parts of the monitor that work do look great, however the parts that do not look pretty awful. I really badly want a replacement monitor, same type and brand. I think I just got a dud.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenvent*
> 
> Just wanted to share my experience real quick. First post here.
> 
> I read through many pages of this forum, did tons of research and eventually it lead me to buy an *X-Star from Dream-Seller for ~$279*. I received the monitor in just three days. I opened it up, set it up and [email protected]#$, there's huge defect:
> 
> *Defect Images:*
> http://i.imgur.com/jFBIf81.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/Yu2Z7Yc.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/kkY2WBx.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/By7tJZ5.jpg
> 
> They look much worse in person.
> 
> So far Dream Seller has offered to refund my purchase, provided I pay to ship the monitor back. The gave me the details on what I needed to do, Fedex estimated the shipping to be around $300. Yep, more than I even paid for the monitor. I'm hoping there's something Dream Seller can do to get the shipping price down. Otherwise I'm not sure what I'm going to do, currently considering getting a square trade insurance policy and claiming it down the road. But who knows if that'll work since I did not get the perfect pixel model. *What would you guys do in my situation?*
> 
> The parts of the monitor that work do look great, however the parts that do not look pretty awful. I really badly want a replacement monitor, same type and brand. I think I just got a dud.


Is the the blb or the random colors that's the problem?


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Is the the blb or the random colors that's the problem?


I'm going to assume you don't see those lines that are running across the entire screen. Those are apparently rows of dead pixels or pixels that are broken somehow.

This is why I shop at Amazon. The seller I bought my Crossover 27Q from printed a prepaid return label that cost me ZIP. Nada. Nothing. I'm assuming that this isn't always the case. However, if you complain to Amazon enough, they will more than likely eat the cost of shipping after talking to the seller for you. I try to stay away from ebay as much as humanly possible. Others have had great experiences, but I don't take chances with hundreds of dollars. That's just me, though.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Is the the blb or the random colors that's the problem?


It's the two lines of non-functional pixels.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> It's the two lines of non-functional pixels.


Oh wow that is bad, sorry didn't notice the first time. I would definitely not accept having to pay return shipping as you bought under the condition of having a fully functional product. It is obviously defective and you deserve a refund - without you needing to pay return shipping of course.

I would file a paypal claim (if you paid with paypal) if they refuse to pay return shipping or file a charge back with you bank if you paid by credit card.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well sorry and that sucks and I know there is a lot to look through obviously (and his/her price is great...for a reason) but if you really read "many pages" especially more recent ones I don't see how/why you went with dream-seller. More like nightmare as you too have now found out.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenvent*
> 
> Just wanted to share my experience real quick. First post here.
> 
> I read through many pages of this forum, did tons of research and eventually it lead me to buy an *X-Star from Dream-Seller for ~$279*. I received the monitor in just three days. I opened it up, set it up and [email protected]#$, there's huge defect:
> 
> *Defect Images:*
> http://i.imgur.com/jFBIf81.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/Yu2Z7Yc.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/kkY2WBx.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/By7tJZ5.jpg
> 
> They look much worse in person.
> 
> So far Dream Seller has offered to refund my purchase, provided I pay to ship the monitor back. The gave me the details on what I needed to do, Fedex estimated the shipping to be around $300. Yep, more than I even paid for the monitor. I'm hoping there's something Dream Seller can do to get the shipping price down. Otherwise I'm not sure what I'm going to do, currently considering getting a square trade insurance policy and claiming it down the road. But who knows if that'll work since I did not get the perfect pixel model. *What would you guys do in my situation?*
> 
> The parts of the monitor that work do look great, however the parts that do not look pretty awful. I really badly want a replacement monitor, same type and brand. I think I just got a dud.


In your situation, I would talk with dream-seller and see what he's *willing* to do..
And honestly if it costs you more than a couple of bucks out of pocket, maybe bypass him and file a claim through eBay/PayPal, because that's obviously a defective item


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> I'm going to assume you don't see those lines that are running across the entire screen. Those are apparently rows of dead pixels or pixels that are broken somehow.
> 
> This is why I shop at Amazon. The seller I bought my Crossover 27Q from printed a prepaid return label that cost me ZIP. Nada. Nothing. I'm assuming that this isn't always the case. However, if you complain to Amazon enough, they will more than likely eat the cost of shipping after talking to the seller for you. I try to stay away from ebay as much as humanly possible. Others have had great experiences, but I don't take chances with hundreds of dollars. That's just me, though.


Agreed


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Would it be safe to run a 24/7 96Hz overclock, and then use 120Hz for gaming? Or should desktop usage be 60Hz, and then 120Hz for gaming? I've read that the pixel clock at 96Hz isn't technically even "out of spec".


I don't think anybody knows whether it's really that safe or not. The monitors are still so new we haven't gotten the chance to see what the long term results may be! That being said, it's just too good for me to pass it up; it's 120hz all the way for this guy.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leafonthewind*
> 
> Tempted to bite the bullet and purchase one of the X-stars from dreamseller. However, I see a lot of people having different issues, is it worth the headache?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenvent*
> 
> Just wanted to share my experience real quick. First post here.
> 
> I read through many pages of this forum, did tons of research and eventually it lead me to buy an *X-Star from Dream-Seller for ~$279*. I received the monitor in just three days. I opened it up, set it up and [email protected]#$, there's huge defect:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well sorry and that sucks and I know there is a lot to look through obviously (and his/her price is great...for a reason) but if you really read "many pages" especially more recent ones I don't see how/why you went with dream-seller. More like nightmare as you too have now found out.


I'm with wrigleyvillain on this one. I really can't see how *anybody* could ever be so silly as to go through dream-seller after looking through even the last half a dozen pages of this thread.
The risk was so great with these monitors that I spent a full 2 weeks doing my homework on the deal, and it only took about a day for me to realize that dream-seller has carved his name as the absolute worst person to by one of these panels from on ebay.
Go with reputable guys like greensum or accessorieswhole. You will have to pay a couple of dollars more than what DS (should be BS) is charging, but when your talking about something in the $300 price range I'd rather spend a few extra and feel more secure.

Please don't go with dream-seller.


----------



## BoingLoings

I'm guessing this is a bad time to mention that "dream-seller" is selling the Matte X-Star for $269 again.


----------



## kaurapuuro8

Hi,

Bigclothcraft have some problems supplying Qnix Glossy. So they offered me X-Star glossy. Im going to debezel my 2 qnix so i was wondering if the insides of x-star are the same so it does not seem different from my 2 debezeled qnix? Or Should i wait for the Qnix...


----------



## gl3nnn

Not sure about the bezel. But it seems many sellers are having stock problems with glossy Qnix monitors (dream-seller & accessorieswhole included). You can try going to green-sum, they said they have glossy monitors in stock. Not sure why they are the only only store with it available. Seems a little sketchy to me, but don't let my judgement affect yours.

Here's the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123


----------



## Stylook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoingLoings*
> 
> I'm guessing this is a bad time to mention that "dream-seller" is selling the Matte X-Star for $269 again.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> I don't think anybody knows whether it's really that safe or not. The monitors are still so new we haven't gotten the chance to see what the long term results may be! That being said, it's just too good for me to pass it up; it's 120hz all the way for this guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm with wrigleyvillain on this one. I really can't see how *anybody* could ever be so silly as to go through dream-seller after looking through even the last half a dozen pages of this thread.
> The risk was so great with these monitors that I spent a full 2 weeks doing my homework on the deal, and it only took about a day for me to realize that dream-seller has carved his name as the absolute worst person to by one of these panels from on ebay.
> Go with reputable guys like greensum or accessorieswhole. You will have to pay a couple of dollars more than what DS (should be BS) is charging, but when your talking about something in the $300 price range I'd rather spend a few extra and feel more secure.
> 
> Please don't go with dream-seller.


I agree with that. I find that it takes a lot of reading to get to know credible sellers. If you read even the warranty claim of Dream-Seller, it's very bad business to ask customers to pay shipping back to Korea, if the monitor cost USD100 maybe can consider. Because shipping alone could cost half or more than the monitor price itself if you don't have any corporate account.


----------



## gl0ry

Guys this is a very important question if someone could answer me please send me a pm because I'm on a mobile device.

long story short I debezled and epoxyd the PCB box to the back of the panel. Worried about the epoxy application I was stupid enough to not verify the length of the cables. The harness that connects to the bottom corner is short an inch now. Is it ok for me to splice the wire and extend it with similar gauge wiring to extend the cable by a couple of inches. I have done some soldering before but never for anything monitor related.

as far as I can tell it should work but I could really use a pat on the back and some confirmation. Thank you


----------



## i386

Hi all,

I am so excited







, Purchased "QNIX Tempered Glass QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS PC Monitor" from accessorieswhole.

Upgrading from MATTE 19" (1280x1024) to Tempered glass 27" (2560x1440)







I hope I am not going to have a heart attack from the shock.

Shipped two days ago. Tracking shows it reached Mumbai this morning, so maybe it will get here in my country (Oman) today.


----------



## zenvent

Thank you all for reading my post about Dream Seller.

I don't entirely blame them, any other eBay seller in the US would expect you to pay return shipping as well. I knew I was taking a gamble, I had no idea it would cost more than the monitor to ship it back however. I did read many pages about Dream Seller here, searching the forums first. Most were complaints of shipping- which I didn't mind because they have had monsoons on that side of the world. There are many good things said about then here and on other forums. Dream Seller also has many many many positive feedback ratings on just this exact monitor, I feel like I got a dud rather than completely screwed over. I shouldn't have taken a risk on something that has a high likely hood of being defective.

Currently I'm hoping he can cut me a deal and I can just use this monitor for parts or experimentation or something.

I have decided to try a new seller, http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ , we shall see if their service is better. The total ended up being $60 but they claim replacing defective monitors will be very easy with them. I will let you guys know what my experience is like with them.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl3nnn*
> 
> Not sure about the bezel. But it seems many sellers are having stock problems with glossy Qnix monitors (dream-seller & accessorieswhole included). You can try going to green-sum, they said they have glossy monitors in stock. Not sure why they are the only only store with it available. Seems a little sketchy to me, but don't let my judgement affect yours.
> 
> Here's the link:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123


Be aware that when I ordered glossy from them, I got a glass panel model. Someone else a few pages back removed the panel completely to make it like the glossy model.


----------



## gl3nnn

U bought this exact model from green-sum? But anyway, how was the quality of the glass model they gave you?


----------



## phillyd

Oh, idk if I posted yet, but I got mine with 0 dead pixels and minor blb in one corner. Paid $280 for X-Star on ebay, arrived on the third day! I have calibrated colors, and overclocked to 96Hz.


----------



## funkymunky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funkymunky*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> is my Gigabyte HD 5870 compatible with this monitor?
> Can i use it in dual monitor mode with my 24" DELL (1920*1200)?


?


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funkymunky*
> 
> ?


As long as your video card has a Dual Link DVI output and cable, you should be able to run it without issue. You might have some trouble if your video card has less than 1GB VRAM. Other than that, you can run a dual monitor setup as long as your video card has two outputs.


----------



## zenvent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Oh, idk if I posted yet, but I got mine with 0 dead pixels and minor blb in one corner. Paid $280 for X-Star on ebay, arrived on the third day! I have calibrated colors, and overclocked to 96Hz.


What seller did you choose?


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenvent*
> 
> Thank you all for reading my post about Dream Seller.
> I did read many pages about Dream Seller here, searching the forums first. Most were complaints of shipping- which I didn't mind because they have had monsoons on that side of the world. There are many good things said about then here and on other forums. Dream Seller also has many many many positive feedback ratings on just this exact monitor, I feel like I got a dud rather than completely screwed over. I shouldn't have taken a risk on something that has a high likely hood of being defective.


While I can respect that you feel you got 'unlucky' in your dealings, it took me all of 15 minutes to find nearly a dozen posts of people reporting defective monitors from dream-seller and expressing their concerns at his lack of proper support.
As others have said before me, there is a reason that he sells his monitors at such a low price in comparison to the others.

At any rate, I wish you luck in your next purchase; it really is too bad this one didn't work out for you, let's hope the next one is better.









I have heard good things about www.ipsledmonitors.com, at least as far as replacing defective ones goes.
Keep us in the loop!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes I don't have hard data or possibly even all my facts straight on this but even outside of *all* the negative experiences posted I am pretty sure it had been established that dream-sellers panels were of a lower quality "binning" ("B grade" or something like that; maybe even B-) compared to (some) other sellers. The best (A and/or A+ I think) go to the big OEMs straight from Samsung (or into Samsung-branded displays), as far as I understand it.


----------



## jerrolds

Anyone have super tight timings? I get the occasionial green line at @120hz and im using a modified LCD Reduced timing set, i believe ended up at 468mhz with total pixels of 2700x1445.

This is with my best cable, the other ones show more lines.

Anyone get 120hz <= 450mhz with a Radeon card?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah Spartan F8 has done some work and reported good findings on timings and pixel clock and such. Can try searching this thread for "front porch".


----------



## jerrolds

Will do - i read about people suggesting that, thanks much

EDIT: K found this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> ...............................H.....................V
> Active pixels...2560...............1440
> Front porch............48.....................2
> Sync width............32.....................2
> Total pixels.....2595...............1444
> (this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
> Pixel [email protected] (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
> Pixel [email protected]
> ...................................................^
> this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU. If you use just the nvidia control panel and use CVT reduced you are at like 500Mhz already. With just the control panel i was able to get 134Hz which is 559Mhz before things got messy. Thinking of this as a kinda limit i tried to get the pixel clock as low as possible and then try again. This got me to 142hz which was just under the pixel clock of what i got before confirming they are very relative to each other. Next after adding the monoprice cable that was better than stock i got to 152Hz at just over the original 559Mhz showing some bandwidth improvement. Now since i hate uniformity issues i have set it back to 120hz but with the newly found total pixels and overall lower pixel clock. This reduced the "strain" i guess that was on the cable for the overclock and vastly decreased negative overclocking effects(gamma shift was better, uniformity was pretty much gone, etc)
> 
> Also using this same methodology i tried downsampling the screen to see how high the pixel count could go on this monitor. I am not going to get too much into it but i was able to get [email protected] with an overall pixel clock of 561Mhz. Please be careful when downsampling though as it can cause the monitor to go into test mode and also corrupt the start resolution. If you do get where restarting the PC does not bring the picture back connect a separate monitor and boot windows, then connect the Qnix as secondary. After that you can switch it to primary and go on as normal. If anyone sees anywhere this can be improved PLEASE jump in. I have done a lot of reading but there could always be something i missed.
> 
> Hopefully this helps some people get 120hz or at least some better results at that refresh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Fixed weird space removal


I think this might only work with Nvidia cards? As im pretty sure my CRU looks different..more like

Active:................2560.................1440
Front Porch: ....48.......................1
Sync Width:......32.......................2
Back Porch: ....60.......................2
Blanking:.........140.....................5
Total:.................2700.................1445
Sync Polarity:...+........................-

To match 2595 Total - what would the Back Porch/Blanking be?

Thanks!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah. There is a long post or two from him about this I am specifically thinking of with numbers and all. Has also been discussed at various other times throughout this behemoth of a thread.

Would prefer more of that type of content and less of the same regurgitated questions and answers found in the OP but so it goes...


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenvent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Oh, idk if I posted yet, but I got mine with 0 dead pixels and minor blb in one corner. Paid $280 for X-Star on ebay, arrived on the third day! I have calibrated colors, and overclocked to 96Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> What seller did you choose?
Click to expand...

Dream-seller. Good feedback and the cheapest.


----------



## Massive17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaurapuuro8*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Bigclothcraft have some problems supplying Qnix Glossy. So they offered me X-Star glossy. Im going to debezel my 2 qnix so i was wondering if the insides of x-star are the same so it does not seem different from my 2 debezeled qnix? Or Should i wait for the Qnix...


Hey I'm thinking about debezelling mine. I know there's a guide in the front of this thread. Do you have any pictures or tips on how to go about it and was it pretty hard thing to do ?


----------



## jerrolds

Yes check page one for the debezel guide - i took mine apart to fix BLB and its pretty easy.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Dream-seller. Good feedback and the cheapest.


Same here, nothing but good service from them. Got the glossy for 279 and no problems at all. Couple of days delay in shipping because of a typhoon but other than that it was a perfect transaction. They also updated me almost everyday about the delay and even asked if wanted to cancel.

Keeping my fingers crossed that my monitor doesn't fizzle out or something on me. .


----------



## jriley9922

i saw a QX2720 pop up on ebay today for $279

the 2710 is the one everyone has.... anyone know if the 2720 is any different?

it looks like it just has a redsigned input area on the back... and it now has VGA and DVI.
who in the heck would use VGA on this.... VGA cant even do 2560x1440 can it?

anway, just curious if anyone knew anything. Google didnt seem to have any info. Just want to make sure they didn't change the board or something to where it's locked at 60hz.


----------



## jerrolds

^ its 1920x1080 on a 27" monitor? Booo. It's also multi-input, DVI, VGA - which means it probably has a scaler, so no overclocking.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Same here, nothing but good service from them. Got the glossy for 279 and no problems at all. Couple of days delay in shipping because of a typhoon but other than that it was a perfect transaction. They also updated me almost everyday about the delay and even asked if wanted to cancel.
> 
> Keeping my fingers crossed that my monitor doesn't fizzle out or something on me. .


As I've said before, all the negative comments are not to say that across the board that dream-seller has bad units and service. That said, these units and method of purchase is a big enough gamble as it is and dream-sellers are cheaper/est for a reason.

Glad to hear of a couple positive ones again too...


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> There is a member submission form in the OP


Thanks, though I can't see it on this computer at work, will have to wait until I get home







.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Just to add to to the Dream-Seller feedback, I got my matte Qnix from him recently (within a month), and my monitor is perfectly fine.

One dead pixel that I cant even see, even when I'm TRYING to find it. Very minimal BLB. And OCs to 120Hz on stock cable no problem. Shipping only took 4 days from Korea to eastern US.

Recently people seem to have been having problems with his monitors, but *overall* throughout the course of this thread, hes been regarded as one of the better sellers. And his eBay feedback is outstanding.

I've seen people starting to recommend greensum, but a few hundred pages back people were saying to stay away from him.

I really think it's just luck-of-the draw in terms of *panel quality*. And whose to say some monitors weren't just damaged in shipping, outside of the seller's control. I'm not sure dream-seller, or anyone else, has any control over what grade of monitors they get. The only differences really should be in terms of seller communication, shipping practices, etc. But that's just my opinion.

That said, go with whoever you feel the most comfortable with







, I just wanted to throw in some much needed positive feedback for dream-seller.

Edit: Although, buying through Amazon, or a US-based seller (if in the US) would result in feasible returns/exchanges. That's definitely something to consider, despite the extra cost.


----------



## sWaY20

I'm going to order one of these next Fri to replace my overlord. Is there a preference in monitor xstar or qnix? I know this has been asked a thousand times, I'm just worried one might have something (or better than) the other. I was gonna ask about sellers too but the comment above confirms its hit or miss.

tapping from the Nexus 4


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I'm going to order one of these next Fri to replace my overlord. Is there a preference in monitor xstar or qnix? I know this has been asked a thousand times, I'm just worried one might have something (or better than) the other. I was gonna ask about sellers too but the comment above confirms its hit or miss.
> 
> tapping from the Nexus 4


As far as we know, they're exactly the same. Qnix seems to be preferred just because the recorded & verified overclocking results are much more plentiful


----------



## skilly

Is the stock power brick that comes with the Xstar good enough? Does anyone recommend an aftermarket power brick to power the monitor?

Mine gets fairly hot over the course of the day. I was just curious if there were more durable ones out there that would stay cooler and just be a better option for the monitor in general.


----------



## ColdFlo

If you receive a defective panel I suggest you search through my posts and find one of my first posts in this thread. You may find it saving you 50+ dollars on helping you solve your problems. So many people have knocked me for that but if it was you in that position you would be thanking me.

Wow you guys are so new when it comes to computers. Really, Seems like most of you only know about how to play the games and look at your monitor and USE an OS. Pretty Sad. No, you should never use alcohol(usually contains water which takes longer to dry) on your PC....... ever. You can use some acetone to clean the top of the CPU(should dry quickly keep it away from plastic ink on mobo and capacitors and away from the cpu socket but it should dry fast anyway just not super fast blast it with a hair dryer for a minute) but if the thermal paste didnt already pull the text off the cpu the acetone surely will. Never put alcohol on any plastic surface. With plastic you have to be very careful. Even if the screen is glass I still wouldn't use alcohol. You want to use only WATER WITH ONE DROP OF DISH SOAP thats it then maybe a damp rag after its clean with glass cleaner to wipe away streaks if it is made of glass. ANYTHING PLASTIC INCLUDING THE KEYBOARD SHOULD BE WATER, NOT TOO HOT, WITH ONE DROP OF DISH SOAP. Then dry it off(no spray bottle no excess damp squeezed rag these bezels are not like CRTs that can block some excess). Alcohol and other cleaners are too harsh and will eat the plastic making it smooth and removing the text from your keyboard keys or possibly texture from a plastic monitor screen. If you have a motherboard full of tobacco from smoking and fans collecting the sticky in there you can wash it in the sink or the dishwasher(at varying levels of risk use your head the least invasive fix is always the right one but any sticky left will attract more dust so you have to get the job done) and get it almost new(allow a couple days to dry to be anal or try to accelerate it with a carpet drying squirrel cage shop fan or some kind of hot air device that is not so hot it will desolder the components); you can also do this with keyboard internals(but keyboards never seem to go back together right and its a pain sometimes to get all the keys to work at the same time). Computers are delicate they are not like old CRT glass tube monitors(which at the end had plastic film anti glare coatings anyway that you wouldn't want to use chemicals on). Water one drop of soap to clean and if you need to do some plastic repair or scratch remover look to car plastic products like Mother's plastic polish or plastic headlight scratch repair something along those lines expensive detailing/repair products(this stuff is all different has specific applications do your research). Water is not the enemy water is your friend what is your enemy is water plus electricity(one pop and its all over you have to buy a new component dont try to fix it it often results in a pop in a chip you cant replace somewher else on the board you didnt expect 



). Anytime your mixing water and computer components it better not be attached to any kind of power supply(you can get away with wiping the top of the keyboard usually(not sure about chiclet keys(this is the style of keyboard I'm moving to next(lowest keypress depth =s faster gaming)))).

So now onto some new information. I've been researching electronic components and trying to get a handle on the LED global market landscape and of course I learned a few things about the monitor tho not as specific as I'd like. We have all been bothered by the warm color of the monitor at least at first or compared to other monitors. I tried everyones ICC profiles and the ones from ASUS and other monitors with the same Samsung LTM270DL02(these is also a LTM270HL02(smaller 1080p version) that I'm sure allot of you have run across on tftcentral http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/search.php?query=LTM270&select=panel) panel and all the "custom" ones from this thread came out looking blue and green way off base and the ones from ASUS and Samsung with this same panel came off looking essentially the same but with a slight haze to it and looking slightly brighter but ultimately less clear. I'm not sure if ICC profiles are the fix we are looking for but ultimately it is something we should all learn anyway to tweak the monitors to the full potential. The problem I have is our samsung panels to me look the same as the ones at walmart(in color and overall characteristics). Yes ours have a much denser resolution but the color(purplish blues, darker reds overall darker more "cinematic" quality to the picture much like the difference between Canon and Nikon where Samsung PLS would be Nikon and LG IPS would be Canon) and the way the screen draws animation(far more accurately with less blurring) are superior, but even at walmart all the Samsung TVs have that same slightly yellow warmth and darker overall colors. Researching LEDS I have been trying to start at the top in order to find the best quality(not just LCD leds but all leds) and I have come across several lists like this one http://electroiq.com/blog/articles/2012/02/top-10-led-manufacturers-in-2011/. So, of course its "likely" that Samsung is using Samsung LEDs to back-light their own displays. I also ran across this little tidbit:

LED back-lighting in color screens comes in two flavors: white LED back-lights and RGB LED back-lights.[3] White LEDs are used most often in notebooks and desktop screens, and in virtually all mobile LCD screens. A white LED is typically a blue LED with broad spectrum yellow phosphor to give the impression of white light.

From here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlight

Which explains our yellow warmth I also found on Samsungs Display Edge LED page an interesting video at the bottom http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/it-c/display-led/edge-led. Which states they have a new LED the "7030" and lists a 27" WCG"Wide Color Gamut" which these displays can cost thousand of dollars 2000+ here in the states and that it contains red and green phosphors(shows the wafer transferring robotic arms cool almost looks like intel) which are able to achieve 95% plus of the NTSC and Adobe color gamuts so they claim... I am wondering one of the first things I worried about to have to replace about these monitors would be the backlight or as a possible upgrade?........ Is this the LED we could be looking for? I wonder what all would be involved to match one or another to this monitor and PWM dimming would probably require us to identify the current LEDs and their specifications and try to match that as closely as possible and install the new ones in the same orientation. There are many other manufacturers as well. Nichia, LG, Phillips Lumiled, Cree etc etc. Still I have yet to find anything definitive on quality and a majority of these are OEM business type leds(harder to order by joe blow consumer because they require huge orders of 100s of thousands or millions of leds to make it cost effective) and not the other kinds of leds I'm looking for like bicolor/ornamental LEDs. Maybe an RGB(adjustable white color temperature within what bounds I'm not sure yet) led would be better but more than likely this would require extra circuitry we don't have.

I've also been catching up on the easily researchable part of LCD evolution(the part people can understand the back-light). And if i hadn't been on CRT for so long I would already know this but it shouldn't have been necessary to open up the panel to figure out this is an edge lit LCD(the reason for LCD Edge lighting is to make the panel overall more slim). As we all know commercial production LCDs started out with CFL backlights and then to LED backlights which first came in the form of an array often taking the same panel thickness that the CCFLs they replaced did. Which leads to these 2 articles which should sum up most of this for you plus one has an expanded(exploded?) Samsung TV showing you all the Layers of a Samsung panel separated on glass displays across an entire showroom.

http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57572740-221/led-lcd-backlights-explained/
^Has Exploded Diffuser Sheer Layer "Light Guides"(the pock marks make up the array in the light guide on an edge lit from dascth video 



) or something I read they are called
http://reviews.cnet.com/2795-6482_7-399.html This page states that Samsung was the progenitor of Edge Lit LCDs.
http://reviews.cnet.com/led-tvs-review-10-things-you-need-to-know Center picture gallery has the all the "Exploded" layers of a Samsung Edge-Lit Flat panel.

So the reason we have such poor black level is the Edge Lit LCD without local dimming. To me Edge Lit local dimming is not at all desirable because it introduces what looked like picture banding on CRT and I remember reading about these reviews on Amazon from Slickdeals' posts about certain LCD TVs a few years ago and people were complaining about what they thought was a defect when infact it was completely intended to try to increase black-level on a thin panel to satisfy the consumer(I would rather have a higher performance screen than a thin screen I'm not going to spend years looking at the back or side of a monitor......) only to introduce banding effects in certain situations causing people to avoid the panels because of the viral effect of internet reviews that manufacturers have still not fully adjusted to. Making a dimming mod would be extremely difficult(at least at first glance) and would probably not be desirable anyway so a blacklevel fix other than fixing the bleed is not possible without switching to full array backlighting which would require allot of money and a completely new internal panel frame and internal light reflector with perfectly spaced holes more work than anyone would want to attempt only to have a questionable result. Not to say that switching the backlight at all would have a positive result because most likely the WCG"Wide Color Gamut" 7030 LEDS may have a different color tuned Wide Gamut LCD panel layer to go along with it with different colors that work differently with the other LEDS(kind of doubt this tho).

Still we need to indentify the Samsung LEDs used to edge light our models. Dascth's video is very poor for this I think they are only half exposed on his. Honestly I don't want to open up my panel that much cause you will get dust inbetween those light diffuser sheets(the LEDs I think from his video are along the bottom of the internal LCD panel I'm pretty sure they look like these http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/it-c/display-led/edge-led tho you can only see the top edge of the yellow and unless they have markings along the top(doesn't look like they do) it may be impossible to identify these by lookiing at them because they all look so similar so this may require an email). I'll get right on this(sorry thinking as I go a little can't think of everything which takes time and we are all limited on time).

LTM270DL02_Datasheet.pdf 1246k .pdf file

No mention of LEDS used.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> No, you should never use alcohol(usually contains water which takes longer to dry) on your PC....... ever. You can use some acetone to clean the top of the CPU(should dry quickly keep it away from plastic ink on mobo and capactors and away from the cpu socket but it should dry fast anyway just not super fast blast it with a hair dryer for a minute) but if the thermal paste didnt already pull the text off the cpu the acetone surely will. Never put alcohol on any plastic surface. With plastic you have to be very careful. Even if the screen is glass I still wouldn't use alcohol. You want to use only WATER WITH ONE DROP OF DISH SOAP thats it then maybe a damp rag after its clean with glass cleaner to wipe away streaks if it is made of glass. ANYTHING PLASTIC INCLUDING THE KEYBOARD SHOULD BE WATER, NOT TOO HOT, WITH ONE DROP OF DISH SOAP. Then dry it off. Alcohol and other cleaners are too harsh and will eat the plastic making it smooth and removing the text from your keyboard keys or possibly texture from a plastic monitor screen.


I use alcohol on my CPU, acetone sounds like a bad idea, especially if you're saying it will rub the lettering off the CPU (which alcohol does not do). I use diluted alcohol on my keyboard and mouse-pad sometimes and haven't noticed any ill-effects either.

As far as cleaning the Qnix, I use a microfiber cloth, and sometimes just a tiny bit of water.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I use alcohol on my CPU, acetone sounds like a bad idea, especially if you're saying it will rub the lettering off the CPU (which alcohol does not do). I use diluted alcohol on my keyboard and mouse-pad sometimes and haven't noticed any ill-effects either.
> 
> As far as cleaning the Qnix, I use a microfiber cloth, and sometimes just a tiny bit of water.


What's worse is he's saying not to put alcohol on a plastic surface, but recommending acetone for cleaning CPUs. Never use acetone near anything plastic related (something near that CPU is definatly made of plastic) because it dissolves certain "plastics." If you want to clean your monitor use specifically made monitor cleaners or distilled water.


----------



## Stylook

Hi all,

Would like to know if any of you have this symptom like playing online videos (Youtube, etc..) in Google Chrome where it would suddenly hang and lock, needed to reset the PC? I have this symptoms and it seems that I cannot play any online videos with Google Chrome now. But I could use Windows IE 10. My OS is Win 7 Ultimate.

I have been using NVC customs resolution of 110hz with all OPs for patch and CRU added.

Would appreciate any feedback.

Thank you.


----------



## Robertdt

Hey guys, I keep asking this question and no one has answered yet, but:

EDID color temperature settings, or Catalyst default temperature settings?

Can't decide entirely which gives the better picture and wondering what everyone else has as their setting.


----------



## paulkon

Rule of thumb is to disable all GPU driver post-processing and calibrate with ICC + video LUTs to maximize accuracy. 3DLUTs for applications which support it.


----------



## turkletont

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor/330932578190?customid=wyVckBznEeOciUZqSFMiPQ0_Kb7i3_0_0_0&pub=5574652453&afepn=5337259887&campid=5337259887&pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e&afepn=5337259887

bout to pull the trigger on this for $270.

Can somebody quickly clarify one thing for me:
I have a 1440p monitor, I want a 1440p monitor that can do 120 hz.. that's all I'm interested in. What are the chances of this doing 120hz or close to it. And if not, can I return it?

thxxx


----------



## Stylook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stylook*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Would like to know if any of you have this symptom like playing online videos (Youtube, etc..) in Google Chrome where it would suddenly hang and lock, needed to reset the PC? I have this symptoms and it seems that I cannot play any online videos with Google Chrome now. But I could use Windows IE 10. My OS is Win 7 Ultimate.
> 
> I have been using NVC customs resolution of 110hz with all OPs for patch and CRU added.
> 
> Would appreciate any feedback.
> 
> Thank you.


Hi all,

It's ok, I found out nothing to do with CRU or patch etc. It's the notorious Realtek HD audio driver matter.

Cheers


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hey guys, I keep asking this question and no one has answered yet, but:
> 
> EDID color temperature settings, or Catalyst default temperature settings?
> 
> Can't decide entirely which gives the better picture and wondering what everyone else has as their setting.


Start by reading "Color Calibration Profiles and How to install them" in the first post of this thread. The main point is you need to use an ICC profile activated within the Color Management control panel in Windows.


----------



## jerrolds

Ok after a bunch of testing - these are my best possible timings with my Radeon 7970, ending up with a pixel clock of 459.86MHz - LCD Reduced is 469.20Mhz

Hopefully this helps people struggling to get a clean 120hz refresh.


----------



## ColdFlo

I would rather not have to worry about iso alcohol under my CPU socket(not drying for hours or longer); with acetone there is no worry. Just a damp paper towel ontop of the CPU. I used alcohol at first but one time I got to wiping a little too much and worried about runoff/excess(I've cleaned allot of CPUs in last 15 years which I'm sure allot of us have). Acetone dries really fast. It doesn't really hurt the PCB and it would have to have prolonged contact to hurt any plastic components. I think shorting under the socket is a much bigger worry(walmart 91% iso is 9% water) than eating through plastic(which would need a significant amount of acetone and time(comparative to what you can get off a damp rag doesn't need to be seriously damp to clean thermal paste with acetone(I don't know of another widespread cheap solvent that dries so fast or is as powerful) eliminates having to bust out hairdryer(if you did hit it with hairdryer even some under the socket would evaporate completely) or waiting just overall better practice) excess/runoff will dry fast). I cleaned my first Logitech keyboard with alcohol then I got my first Razer keyboard and looked up how to really do it then I realized what the alcohol had done to the Logitech. It had smoothed the texture off the keys and some of the key text. Any kind of cleaner is too harsh for number of times you will have to clean something like a keyboard or monitor(unless it is glass(I still don't know what this screen is made of to be honest I still have the protective packing plastic still on it.







The matte coating is a plastic film that you can see removed on callsignvegas thread)).

Just had one of those belated tweaking moments(well I've only had the monitor for a month now).

In the Nvidia drivers go to Video > Adjust Video Color Settings > Advanced and set it to Full 0-255(did a search can't remember if someone mentioned this or not thread is too long and its been a month since I read it have a slight inkling(maybe a little more) this has already been discussed). In the past it always did this by default but I just checked it(maybe since first time I got this monitor and I switched it to Full and of course the Black Level and picture are much clearer now. I have allot of experience playing with these settings as MPC progressed on the CRT but since it always defaulted the correct setting with the CRT I assumed it was doing it with this monitor too. I thought it was just LCD limitation. Well at least I caught it somewhat early. Now I feel like watching some film tonight.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mackereland*
> 
> has anyone bought QNIX from *overclockmonitor.com*? Haven't seen it before.
> Should I be the first one who buys it and leave a comment here? Please share your experience if you have any.


Sketchy with a capitol S


----------



## rvega

Got my X-STAR DP2710 Matte on the Sept 10th, after reading this forum obsessively for over a week, watching every disassembly video and review I could find.

There is so much information here, thanks to everyone who's taken the time to post.

I got mine for 269 USD from dream-seller on ebay. It arrived two days earlier than expected via Fedex (4 days total from ebay order to my doorstep).

It is perfect, flawless!, not one single dead pixel, no fuzziness, banding or discoloration, minimal BLB, no electrical buzzing.
Nothing broken, nothing missing.

The one caveat is that it came with a Korean plug, but I had read about that in this forum and was ready with a quality, standard US three prong cable to replace it.

The monitor worked right on the first try and the colors were so beautiful!, best monitor I have ever owned. Applied the sRGB profiles posted on the front page and tested it at 60, 96 and then 120 hz. It worked on each mode perfectly. I tried bluray playback at NTSC and 24 frame rates and gaming with Borderlands 2. No tearing, no ghosting.

I am running it landscape in dual config with my old trusty S-Panel Samsung 226BW 22inch panel in portrait mode, driven by my aging superclocked EVGA GTX 460 1GB.

I apologize for the crappy iPhone pictures, it is late around here and my desk is jet black.

IMG_0816.JPG 425k .JPG file


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> *I would rather not have to worry about iso alcohol under my CPU socket(not drying for hours or longer); with acetone there is no worry.* Just a damp paper towel ontop of the CPU. I used alcohol at first but one time I got to wiping a little too much and worried about runoff/excess(I've cleaned allot of CPUs in last 15 years which I'm sure allot of us have). Acetone dries really fast. It doesn't really hurt the PCB and it would have to have prolonged contact to hurt any plastic components. I think shorting under the socket is a much bigger worry(walmart 91% iso is 9% water) than eating through plastic(which would need a significant amount of acetone and time(comparative to what you can get off a damp rag doesn't need to be seriously damp to clean thermal paste with acetone(I don't know of another widespread cheap solvent that dries so fast or is as powerful) eliminates having to bust out hairdryer(if you did hit it with hairdryer even some under the socket would evaporate completely) or waiting just overall better practice) excess/runoff will dry fast). I cleaned my first Logitech keyboard with alcohol then I got my first Razer keyboard and looked up how to really do it then I realized what the alcohol had done to the Logitech. It had smoothed the texture off the keys and some of the key text. Any kind of cleaner is too harsh for number of times you will have to clean something like a keyboard or monitor(unless it is glass(I still don't know what this screen is made of to be honest I still have the protective packing plastic still on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )).
> 
> Just had one of those belated tweaking moments(well I've only had the monitor for a month now).
> 
> In the Nvidia drivers go to Video > Adjust Video Color Settings > Advanced and set it to Full 0-255(did a search can't remember if someone mentioned this or not thread is too long and its been a month since I read it have a slight inkling(maybe a little more) this has already been discussed). In the past it always did this by default but I just checked it(maybe since first time I got this monitor and I switched it to Full and of course the Black Level and picture are much clearer now. I have allot of experience playing with these settings as MPC progressed on the CRT but since it always defaulted the correct setting with the CRT I assumed it was doing it with this monitor too. I thought it was just LCD limitation. Well at least I caught it somewhat early. Now I feel like watching some film tonight.


What? Iso alcohol does not takes hours to try. It takes mere seconds. I let mine evaporate, usually about 10 seconds and fan some air at it with my hand and its good to go.

EDIT: Wait now I am more confused. Why would you get iso alcohol UNDER the socket? Are you referring to the pin side?


----------



## Spartan F8

I think we can drop the CPU alcohol cleaning chat in the Monitor and displays section Qnix thread. There are plenty of CPU cleaning swipes that can be purchased for next to free on the internet but that really has nothing to do with the monitor. There is a TON of good info regarding this in the CPU section of the forum. I think it would be neat to know what LEDs are in our panel and might take a look myself in the next few days(given i get time).

I did see a comment a few pages back regarding my timings and blanking. The truth is i keep my back porch with a slightly offset blanking set and it causes my black frame insertion to be an extremely small time variance from the rest of the pixel clock. Ideally these would be mathematically sound however the chances i would ever see an effect from it is less than my chances of winning the lottery by buying one ticket and the decrease of pixel clock is worth it to me to include a margin for error. I would not however recommend anyone else do this for obvious reasons. The lowest exact pixel clock i have ever gotten @120hz was 455mhz not too far off from what the rest of you have achieved.

I did also see someone ask again what the difference between the Xstar and Qnix panels(Number 30







). I am a bit disappointed that he got a serious answer(even though that might be a bit mean). I have also noticed our recommendation for people to search "front porch" for timings information might be getting a bit diluted since when you search it you mostly find posts where we are again advising people to search. It may be better to search front porch but definitely use oldest to newest.

Also ColdFlo you are exactly right. Setting the driver to allow 0-255 color definitely helps video playback as long as the video player renderer is set to match it or in "untouched mode". There is also a mountain of other settings involved with video decoding and rendering that can make the Qnix destroy most other displays in playback(honestly the theater looks likes crap now unless you just want BIG). For anyone interested in this i recommend checking the Madvr forum, LAV forum, and any in depth MPC forum(avoid any that keep going on about UI stuff they are just about useless). I primarily recommend taking a look at frame duplication for cinema video and frame interpolation for animation video(due to the lack of soap opera effect) to take advantage of the extra refresh rate in video playback. One of the most amazing things you can do with this panel is optimize video playback/rendering and then watch timescapes on it in 1440p native


----------



## ColdFlo

Look Acetone is better keep crying. So you all watched a youtube video about how to clean your processor and stayed there for 10 years(LOL) good for you. You guys are making a big deal about nothing, reposting huge quotes wasting the threads time. Move on. You definitely don't want to use alcohol on a matte plastic screen or your keyboard. (how did I know that applied to some of you O> ?)

Here is some new information people might actually care about. The Samsung monitors and ASUS monitors that use these same panels have these exact same defects probably on all of them. http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=13&model=PB278Q&id=20120921015917269&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

This one says he got his direct from Samsung
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=13&model=PB278Q&id=20120921015917269&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

LOL ASUS' policy is more than 6 dead pixels before replacement. http://www.service.asus.com/#!zbd/cjej http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20130124182950069&board_id=13&model=PB278Q&page=1&SLanguage=en-us LOLOLOL and Slickdealers were questioning these "cheapo" "korean(most of these monitors are Korean; LG is Korean too)" sellers and companies............

These are not A- or B panels thats just how these panels are and the amount of dead pixels we have been seeing is not that out of bounds compared with the major brands either. We are just overly picky bourgeois middle class snob people who don't have clue about the industry or what we are talking about....... LCD monitors I keep reading have extremely high QC rejection rates I guess they just miss some. Those BLB pics you guys are exaggerating it by turning the brightness all the way up on a black image.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> Look Acetone is better keep crying. So you all watched a youtube video about how to clean your processor and stayed there for 10 years(LOL) good for you. You guys are making a big deal about nothing, reposting huge quotes wasting the threads time. Move on. You definitely don't want to use alcohol on a matte plastic screen or your keyboard. (how did I know that applied to some of you O> ?)
> 
> Here is some new information people might actually care about. The Samsung monitors and ASUS monitors that use these same panels have these exact same defects probably on all of them. http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=13&model=PB278Q&id=20120921015917269&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
> 
> This one says he got his direct from Samsung
> http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=13&model=PB278Q&id=20120921015917269&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
> 
> LOL ASUS' policy is more than 6 dead pixels before replacement. http://www.service.asus.com/#!zbd/cjej http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20130124182950069&board_id=13&model=PB278Q&page=1&SLanguage=en-us LOLOLOL and Slickdealers were questioning these "cheapo" "korean(most of these monitors are Korean; LG is Korean too)" sellers and companies............
> 
> These are not A- or B panels thats just how these panels are and the amount of dead pixels we have been seeing is not that out of bounds compared with the major brands either. We are just overly picky bourgeois middle class snob people who don't have clue about the industry or what we are talking about....... LCD monitors I keep reading have extremely high QC rejection rates I guess they just miss some. *Those BLB pics you guys are exaggerating it by turning the brightness all the way up on a black image*.


This x2

I saw some pics awhile back where someone mentioned maxing out brightness to display blb. Why would someone do this as you are realistically gonna run it full brightness anyways. Not a true test really.


----------



## paulkon

Spartan F8, if you don't mind sharing, what are your exact timings in CRU? IMHO instead of beating around the bush on this topic it may be better to simply post the timings for the benefit of reducing, if not eliminating, further questions on this topic.


----------



## jerrolds

Do a little searching Spartan posts his timings for Nvidia cards, i quoted it a couple pages back actually. If you have a Radeon, you might want to give my timings a go - I was able to beat LCD reduced pixel clock by almost 10Mhz which i think is pretty good


----------



## mudzi

Has anyone here bought from red-cap? He sells a pixel perfect monitor very cheap : here!

But i´m kinda sceptical, should I go for it? Im planning on buying it on Monday as an birthday gift for myself


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Haven't heard anything in awhile but I believe Red-Cap is like Dream-Seller--"very cheap" for a reason.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Spartan F8, if you don't mind sharing, what are your exact timings in CRU? IMHO instead of beating around the bush on this topic it may be better to simply post the timings for the benefit of reducing, if not eliminating, further questions on this topic.


I do not beat around the bush. I simply do not like to repost data that i have already posted before. And no it will not stop questions on this topic. The fact that someone just a couple pages back asked what teh difference between Xstar and Qnix again proves this. You comment actually proves my point as well since had you actively and comprehensively looked through my posts you would have seen my exact timings and my description behind them. A repost my reduce questions for a short time but the effects will be temporary and by far from eliminating. More over, sometimes i am intentionally vague to get people to read and search more rather than just take my settings or exact word for it on these topics. I have a good deal of expertise and have quite the resume but i am at no point going to think there is nothing else to be discovered and would never want myself(outside of work) to be an ends all for people. I have provided my input in the hopes we can ALL build on it to make further progress. Anyone could potentially do some research and find something i may have missed that could push the bar further.

Like ColdFlo(who may have been getting a bit harsh) pointed out the setting in the NVCP about color range. I had completely forgotten about this until he pointed it out and now i can enjoy yet another step in quality with my video playback. Anyone could make contributions like this with a little research.

So bottom line if you can't seem to find my post about a certain topic then send me a PM and when i get some time i will find it and relay the quote of it to you. This will aid in not further bloating the thread with redundant information. And if you see me be a bit vague i am likely trying to "teach a man to fish". This also comes back to what ColdFlo was saying about people in this thread not being too "tech savvy" in some areas.

I look at it this way. Many members are people who wanted the best monitor for the cheapest price or the [email protected] PLS combo. This inherent group does not dictate Guru degree set people but mainly a bargain shopper and/or gamers. Even hard core PC gamers are not going to just know many of these details behind monitor overclocking and display optimization. Generally in any given thread you have your "developer" group and your "information seeker" group. This is what we see here and there is nothing necessarily wrong with it. Most everyone has a specialty set and many of those are not going to be hardware optimization and engineering. Even members of OCN that are masters of CPU OC may come over here and learn something. This is not something to be criticized(ColdFlo) but is a mere byproduct of a forum. It is up to us with knowledge to further the usefulness of the thread and help others out and keeping the info factual. If you get tired of this then opt out and no-one will think any less o you they will just look to others(and hopefully mis-information doesn't spread which would not be said persons fault). It is also a benefit of the thread to have many members that are not completely topic central as it gives them such a bias standpoint they could potentially find or point out something we missed in their line of research(i know i don't remember every fact all the time).

Anyway hope this clears a few things up








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Do a little searching Spartan posts his timings for Nvidia cards, i quoted it a couple pages back actually. If you have a Radeon, you might want to give my timings a go - I was able to beat LCD reduced pixel clock by almost 10Mhz which i think is pretty good











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> Has anyone here bought from red-cap? He sells a pixel perfect monitor very cheap : here!
> 
> But i´m kinda sceptical, should I go for it? Im planning on buying it on Monday as an birthday gift for myself


I got my first crossover from redcap. Luckily everything went well. He is talked about as a good seller on the crossover forum but there is a bad story from time to time. Now there is not much discussion since Accessoirieswhole has pretty much taken over.

A good tip: if you want to check OCN reviews on certain ebay sellers specifically monitors you can search the "Monitors and displays" section with their name in quotes. For exampe: "red-cap" or "redcap" or "dream-seller" or "dreamseller"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Haven't heard anything in awhile but I believe Red-Cap is like Dream-Seller--"very cheap" for a reason.


This may be true in certain areas but in the Qnix thread "you get what you pay for" is dead wrong. I recommend anyone looking at any seller to buy a monitor to search and find actual reviews from people who have actually bought from them to reduce any passing comment from creating mis-information.


----------



## i386

Wohooooo finally









331$+20$ shipping + 15 $ Customs = 366$







from accessorieswhole

From south Korea to Oman,shipped 11/9 arrived 14/9 .

Tempered glass (Glossy)

no bubble wrap












I found one dead pixel(maybe dust between the panel and the glass), minimal BLB.

I will try few games then try to OC


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> Has anyone here bought from red-cap? He sells a pixel perfect monitor very cheap : here!
> 
> But i´m kinda sceptical, should I go for it? Im planning on buying it on Monday as an birthday gift for myself


A few have purchased from Red-Cap. From the members list submissions, 4 to be exact. They had no issues


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rvega*
> 
> Got my X-STAR DP2710 Matte on the Sept 10th, after reading this forum obsessively for over a week, watching every disassembly video and review I could find.
> 
> There is so much information here, thanks to everyone who's taken the time to post.
> 
> I got mine for 269 USD from dream-seller on ebay. It arrived two days earlier than expected via Fedex (4 days total from ebay order to my doorstep).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It is perfect, flawless!, not one single dead pixel, no fuzziness, banding or discoloration, minimal BLB, no electrical buzzing.
> Nothing broken, nothing missing.
> 
> The one caveat is that it came with a Korean plug, but I had read about that in this forum and was ready with a quality, standard US three prong cable to replace it.
> 
> The monitor worked right on the first try and the colors were so beautiful!, best monitor I have ever owned. Applied the sRGB profiles posted on the front page and tested it at 60, 96 and then 120 hz. It worked on each mode perfectly. I tried bluray playback at NTSC and 24 frame rates and gaming with Borderlands 2. No tearing, no ghosting.
> 
> I am running it landscape in dual config with my old trusty S-Panel Samsung 226BW 22inch panel in portrait mode, driven by my aging superclocked EVGA GTX 460 1GB.
> 
> I apologize for the crappy iPhone pictures, it is late around here and my desk is jet black.
> 
> IMG_0816.JPG 425k .JPG file


Welcome to the club, and OCN first poster!

So many first posters in this thread, its great to see people signing up because of this


----------



## Scorpion49

I'm thinking on selling my 3007WFP-HC and buying one of these, I really can't let go of 120hz glossy goodness after I picked up another VG236HE but the screen is so damn tiny. I've bought a catleap from dream-seller before so maybe I will go that route again.


----------



## i386

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Ok after a bunch of testing - these are my best possible timings with my Radeon 7970, ending up with a pixel clock of 459.86MHz - LCD Reduced is 469.20Mhz
> 
> Hopefully this helps people struggling to get a clean 120hz refresh.


I have 7970
This is the first oc setting I did and It worked ,now I am running @120hz with no issue.Thanks


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Hey I'm thinking about debezelling mine. I know there's a guide in the front of this thread. Do you have any pictures or tips on how to go about it and was it pretty hard thing to do ?


I just debezeled mine and it one and a half days. Mostly for the plastidip to dry.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1404407/how-to-create-a-vesa-mount-after-debezelling-your-monitor-qnix-qx2710/150#post_20802158

There's my post from the other thread that goes over in detail what I did.

Was it difficult? Not entirely. On a scale of 1-10 I'd say it was probably a 6 or 7.

Get a guitar pick though. It was the tool of choice for me to pry open bezels/brackets. I can't imagine using anything else without damaging it.

I almost had a panic attack when I epoxy'd the pcb on the back of the monitor. The backlight cable is the exact length it needs to be with little to no slack. I routed it through the bottom and the cord was too short, I had to splice it and extend the wire, but it ended up working out for me.


----------



## timaishu

Looks like mine isn't a great overclocker. I tried the 120hz method above and even tried 96hz reduced and still no luck.

Its always the same row of pixels, just one that cant handle it. Gonna look through this to try and find some settings to try. Would like to alteast find something stable at 96hz.


----------



## gl0ry

I managed to bend the aluminum brackets, one perfectly and the other still had a bit of distortion. I used electrical tape on the inside and my BLB is about as minimal as possible.

Here are some before and after shots. *The photos aren't entirely accurate because time of day and settings on the camera aren't the exact same.*

Before:
 Monitor 1
 Monitor 2

After:
 Monitor 1
 Monitor 2

The result of bracket pressure are those yellow/golden like Backlight bleeds. That's basically the pressure of a bent bracket directly on the panel. You can test how much BLB your panel has by taking the bracket off and just holding the panel in place. There's no pressure from the bracket at that point and you can easily verify what the lowest amount of BLB you can achieve is.


----------



## Semus

From what I have noticed, the way the panel sits inside it's original casing, you're going to get back light bleeding no matter what. The fact that some others have reported little to no BLB is beyond me, but it appears that all of these Qnix monitors show BLB in the exact same spots, which means there is a defect with the casing. Either that, or there is a defect with the panel. The fact that most of my BLB disappeared when I started messing with the panel would indicate there is, in fact, a defect with the panel. Or rather, a defect with the metal casing that holds the panel.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> From what I have noticed, the way the panel sits inside it's original casing, you're going to get back light bleeding no matter what. The fact that some others have reported little to no BLB is beyond me, but it appears that all of these Qnix monitors show BLB in the exact same spots, which means there is a defect with the casing. Either that, or there is a defect with the panel. The fact that most of my BLB disappeared when I started messing with the panel would indicate there is, in fact, a defect with the panel. Or rather, a defect with the metal casing that holds the panel.


It's a bit of both. The large yellowish/golden BLB is usually due to the casing. The lighter white BLB is just a defect in the panel. Gotta remember these are B grade panels for a reason.

The BLB is not even noticeable on anything other than a pure black screen anyways, and even then it can be difficult to notice depending on what angle you're at.


----------



## jerrolds

My backlight bleed was BAD, i had to bend the frame by hand a few times (taking out the metal frame each time), and folded about 4 - 5 pieces of paper to put pressure against the bottom of the frame, as if i was pinching it from the outside.

Before:


Paper insert things...


After:


Top part still has BLB - only way to fix that is to bend the metal frame ..which i dont really wanna do again


----------



## nvhanzila

good,Fantastic work taking all the good posts and putting it all in one place.thank you


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> It's a bit of both. The large yellowish/golden BLB is usually due to the casing. The lighter white BLB is just a defect in the panel. Gotta remember these are B grade panels for a reason.
> 
> The BLB is not even noticeable on anything other than a pure black screen anyways, and even then it can be difficult to notice depending on what angle you're at.


Yes, I agree.

I wanted to post some results of overclocking to 96HZ. It appears that I start to get some image retention at around an hour of use. The very odd thing is that the image retention only happens in the top right corner of the monitor. Very odd. So, if I do OC to 96HZ I have to be very careful about the amount of time I do it. I have come to the conclusion that it really just isn't worth doing if I'm going to get this image retention. It does eventually clear itself after setting the monitor back to 60HZ, but what would happen if you left the monitor like that for 24 hours? Or perhaps even longer? Would there be permanent damage? I have actually gone up to 120HZ, but the colors were really dark and washed out. I know there are ICC profiles that can alleviate some of the color problems, but if the image retention is so bad, is it worth it?

Another thing I have noticed is that with some games 1080P works just fine. I realize that the video card is doing the scaling, but it seems to work fine with most games I've played. The image isn't as sharp as 1440, but with some games it's hardly noticeable, especially from a certain distance away. The further the better. For example, Simcity 5 is a game I play quite often and it look great at 1080P. The reason i play it at 1080P is because my FPS is through the roof. If I switch to 1440 I get FPS in the 50's and 60's depending on what I'm looking at at the time. It's not a game breaker, but when you have FPS well over 100 at 1080P with minimal IQ loss, I don't mind the IQ loss.

The video card I currently own is a GTX 760 4GB and it's OC'ed. I haven't pushed the OC yet, but it's still rather new and I don't want to kill it just yet. My processor is rather old (2600K), but it's still running at 4.3 GHZ. I'm not sure how much better the performance would be with a newer processor at the same exact speed (perhaps it has something to do with the architecture).

Anyhow, I'm getting off track here...

All in all I am in love with this QX2710. So much so that I purchased an X-Star DP2710 that should be here Monday. If this one works out I might just spring for a third and call it a day. However, I'd have to get another video card... decisions, decisions...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> Yes, I agree.
> 
> I wanted to post some results of overclocking to 96HZ. It appears that I start to get some image retention at around an hour of use. The very odd thing is that the image retention only happens in the top right corner of the monitor. Very odd. So, if I do OC to 96HZ I have to be very careful about the amount of time I do it. I have come to the conclusion that it really just isn't worth doing if I'm going to get this image retention. It does eventually clear itself after setting the monitor back to 60HZ, but what would happen if you left the monitor like that for 24 hours? Or perhaps even longer? Would there be permanent damage? I have actually gone up to 120HZ, but the colors were really dark and washed out. I know there are ICC profiles that can alleviate some of the color problems, but if the image retention is so bad, is it worth it?
> 
> Another thing I have noticed is that with some games 1080P works just fine. I realize that the video card is doing the scaling, but it seems to work fine with most games I've played. The image isn't as sharp as 1440, but with some games it's hardly noticeable, especially from a certain distance away. The further the better. For example, Simcity 5 is a game I play quite often and it look great at 1080P. The reason i play it at 1080P is because my FPS is through the roof. If I switch to 1440 I get FPS in the 50's and 60's depending on what I'm looking at at the time. It's not a game breaker, but when you have FPS well over 100 at 1080P with minimal IQ loss, I don't mind the IQ loss.
> 
> The video card I currently own is a GTX 760 4GB and it's OC'ed. I haven't pushed the OC yet, but it's still rather new and I don't want to kill it just yet. My processor is rather old (2600K), but it's still running at 4.3 GHZ. I'm not sure how much better the performance would be with a newer processor at the same exact speed (perhaps it has something to do with the architecture).
> 
> Anyhow, I'm getting off track here...
> 
> All in all I am in love with this QX2710. So much so that I purchased an X-Star DP2710 that should be here Monday. If this one works out I might just spring for a third and call it a day. However, I'd have to get another video card... decisions, decisions...


The color retention of this monitor has been very thoroughly discussed. It is in no way permanent and your 24 hours comment is mute as computers have had screen savers forever. Also you will not have color retention as much or at all if you optimize your monitor timings. I will personally say 120hz is worth it IF you use color correction and if you optimize each variable in the overclock(cable, Gfx port, timings, driver setup). Also i and others have found graphics card overclocking and monitor overclocking at the same time is most often a no no and can have adverse effects. If you are going to triple these and game you are going to need serious graphics power to maintain even 60fps. SLI GTX760s may not be up to the task for many games. The memory is big enough you should not have any issues rendering older games even at 96 or 120hz. Newer games are generally going to be a different story.


----------



## gl0ry

I didn't notice any retention at 96hz, but with SLI and dual monitors the most I can do is 85hz on both monitors simultaneously which is just fine for me. Both monitors seem perfectly capable of 120hz alone though, but its not a big deal.

I actually find the picture quality to be a bit degraded at 120hz, since the gamma gets lower. 85hz I see no difference in picture at all but the extra 25hz helps the smoothness of the mouse a lot.

96 was good too, but I can't use it with SLI for whatever reason.


----------



## mudzi

So I just ordered a Qnix Qx2710 Pixel Perfect from Green-Sum since it was the cheapest pixel perfect monitor (except red-cap) and had lots of great feedback here in the members list. Im currently running a Nvidia Gtx 460 768mb and was wondering if I might be able to play LoL at the highest res? Maybe dota2? My graphics card is overclocked like hell (love this card) and gets 1440 points in 3Dmark extreme (around 6970) and my cpu is an i7 2600k. And also, is this the right plug for the power supply?


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> The color retention of this monitor has been very thoroughly discussed. It is in no way permanent and your 24 hours comment is mute as computers have had screen savers forever. Also you will not have color retention as much or at all if you optimize your monitor timings. I will personally say 120hz is worth it IF you use color correction and if you optimize each variable in the overclock(cable, Gfx port, timings, driver setup). Also i and others have found graphics card overclocking and monitor overclocking at the same time is most often a no no and can have adverse effects. If you are going to triple these and game you are going to need serious graphics power to maintain even 60fps. SLI GTX760s may not be up to the task for many games. The memory is big enough you should not have any issues rendering older games even at 96 or 120hz. Newer games are generally going to be a different story.


Perhaps you misunderstood my comments or perhaps I didn't explain the 24 hour comment very well. I was speaking about leaving things on the screen for 24 hours during gaming or whatever you are doing. Yes, gaming for 24 hours is probably not likely, but there are cases where things can be left on the screen for an excessive amount of time. Regardless, I get your point. As far as optimizing the timings, I'm not sure I understand what that even means. For example, if I set a certain HZ, the timings or pixel clocks are at a set rate, meaning I cannot change them individually and have them stick. They always change together. Perhaps there are some other timings you are speaking about? Or perhaps there is a way to get those timings to stick somehow? Either way, I'll try and see if I can do some research on that. I'd certainly like to run at 96HZ without the image retention.

As far as using the GTX 760 in SLI with three monitors, it will more than likely be in 1080P mode. I will have to disagree with you about the FPS with these cards. A friend of mine has the exact same setup and can get some serious FPS in most games. Now, are we talking BF3 with triple 1440's at max settings? Probably not. However, I don't play FPS (first person shooter) games. The games (and simulations) that I run on this computer I'm able to max out. The same goes for that friend of mine (we are into the same games and simulations - rFactor/iRacing).

In conclusion I'd like to point out that these were just my experiences, and in no way did I make that post to infer that others would get the exact same results if they were to OC their monitor. It seems as though you might have thought that I was trying to scare people away from experimenting with their own monitors. That simply wasn't the case. If my post made it sound that way, I do apologize.

Cheers


----------



## wntrsnowg

Is anyone that is good with graphics willing to make a new banner and 2 section headers for the op?


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> So I just ordered a Qnix Qx2710 Pixel Perfect from Green-Sum since it was the cheapest pixel perfect monitor (except red-cap) and had lots of great feedback here in the members list. Im currently running a Nvidia Gtx 460 768mb and was wondering if I might be able to play LoL at the highest res? Maybe dota2? My graphics card is overclocked like hell (love this card) and gets 1440 points in 3Dmark extreme (around 6970) and my cpu is an i7 2600k. And also, is this the right plug for the power supply?


You're going to run out of vram reeaaaaally fast at 1440p.


----------



## mizi

QX2710, is it works with PS3?

also i paid 88 euro in taxes (cost of the monitor 327$), shipped to the netherlands


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> Yes, I agree.
> 
> I wanted to post some results of overclocking to 96HZ. It appears that I start to get some image retention at around an hour of use. The very odd thing is that the image retention only happens in the top right corner of the monitor. Very odd. So, if I do OC to 96HZ I have to be very careful about the amount of time I do it. I have come to the conclusion that it really just isn't worth doing if I'm going to get this image retention. It does eventually clear itself after setting the monitor back to 60HZ, but what would happen if you left the monitor like that for 24 hours? Or perhaps even longer? Would there be permanent damage? I have actually gone up to 120HZ, but the colors were really dark and washed out. I know there are ICC profiles that can alleviate some of the color problems, but if the image retention is so bad, is it worth it?


I agree that it is strange, I only get image retention in the top right of my monitor as well!
The good news is, even after 8 or 9 hours of a static screen (for the team! lol) it goes back to normal at 60hz within about 15-20 minutes.
I have no problems running this thing at 120hz, and I think I will continue to do so for the most part.








I don't seem to get the 'dimming' or washing out of colors that others are reporting though, maybe it's just my eyes lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mizi*
> 
> QX2710, is it works with PS3?
> 
> also i paid 88 euro in taxes (cost of the monitor 327$), shipped to the netherlands


No. These monitors do not work with either the PS3 or the 360. Sorry.


----------



## mizi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> So I just ordered a Qnix Qx2710 Pixel Perfect from Green-Sum since it was the cheapest pixel perfect monitor (except red-cap) and had lots of great feedback here in the members list. Im currently running a Nvidia Gtx 460 768mb and was wondering if I might be able to play LoL at the highest res? Maybe dota2? My graphics card is overclocked like hell (love this card) and gets 1440 points in 3Dmark extreme (around 6970) and my cpu is an i7 2600k. And also, is this the right plug for the power supply?


i have 560ti and 2500K
DOTA2
AA off, Ambient Occlusion off, shadows on low
teamfights at 20-30fps
normal gameplay 50-60fps


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> I agree that it is strange, I only get image retention in the top right of my monitor as well!
> The good news is, even after 8 or 9 hours of a static screen (for the team! lol) it goes back to normal at 60hz within about 15-20 minutes.
> I have no problems running this thing at 120hz, and I think I will continue to do so for the most part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't seem to get the 'dimming' or washing out of colors that others are reporting though, maybe it's just my eyes lol.


Well, that's good to hear, then. I might consider 96HZ again at some point. I don't get washed out colors at 96HZ at all. It seems to be perfect. When I switch to 120HZ, that's when the colors get washed out and darker. Seems like the IQ is worse as well.


----------



## timaishu

Im gonna search this thread, but does anyone have any overclocking CRU settigns for 96hz? I can even do it with reduced settings. There is one row of pixels that turn red. Even tried the "reduce dvi frequency at high-resolution" button and no luck. Hmmmm


----------



## hueys

If you don't mind explaining, what factors cause the white vs yellow BLB?


----------



## iwasaperson

Does anyone here have the glass qx2710? I was thinking of getting one. Does it have BLB? Does it OC well?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Got XStar matte about a week ago. Need to debezel to get the pressure off the bottom corners... Does 120hz with no trouble too!!! Can't wait to get another one!


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hueys*
> 
> If you don't mind explaining, what factors cause the white vs yellow BLB?


Typically, the yellow BLB is caused by the panel itself being pushed on. This is usually due to the metal frame surrounding it, or even the plastic bezel.

Most yellow BLB can be fixed by opening the monitor and straightening the frame or reducing the pressure applied against the panel in some way.

White BLB can be still be improved, but to a lesser degree. Hope this helps


----------



## yasamoka

@Semus: You can lower the pixel clock at 120Hz so that the issues you see are reduced / eliminated. Search "Front Porch" in this thread. This has been repeated every few pages.

The refresh rate is tied to the Pixel Clock only in automatic mode.


----------



## Proclaim89

Just purchased a qnix qx2710 from greensum for $370AUD. I swear aus gets ripped off like crazy, so jelous of those that got theirs for $279, damn typhoons!








Anyway plan on 96hz lcd reduced. Maybe 120hz but if retention kicks in ill go back to 96.


----------



## Remmib

Looks like prices just went up by $20 all around the board (as far as sellers go).









Cheapest now is *Dream-Seller X-Star DP2710 for $300* (was previously $280).


----------



## jerrolds

Would love to see more people post their timings. The lowest I've able to get was a pixel clock of just over 459Mhz (about 10 less than LCD Reduced). Right now to run at 119hz because 120hz gives me random green lines







I know a slightly better cable will work but ive gone through 4 and im using the best i have









I need a pixel clock of around 456Mhz lol

Spartan F8 got one under it, but it was for Geforce cards - need Radeon timings!


----------



## Moragg

These are my settings using HD7870XT


----------



## Latvik

what's the deal with the PLS vs. IPS these days? Should I get one of these for mmo's or go for an IPS?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Latvik*
> 
> what's the deal with the PLS vs. IPS these days? Should I get one of these for mmo's or go for an IPS?


Copy and Pasted this from the FAQ section in the OP.

Q: Differences between IPS and PLS? (why is one better than the other, if that?)
A: IPS is made by LG and PLS is made by Samsung. They are both pretty much the same thing, but technically PLS is better.


----------



## jerrolds

PLS tend to darken at higher refresh rates - the gamma is too low or something - have to compensate by tweak color settings w/ color profiles, also PLS have slightly better black levels which is good. Other than that - identical.


----------



## shaolin95

I am almost ready to jump into it. Probably the QNIX Matte ...or Glossy, if I can make up my mind which one is best for Photo Editing. Just trying to find a place that can ship fast seeing that there is this week delay in Korea now.


----------



## evilpandy

Posted in the wrong korean panel thread I think... Is a 6850 way underpowered for this monitor? I'm really wanting to move up to a 1440p/27'' and am kind of worried I'll have to upgrade the graphics card too. Gonna mostly be playing LoL as far as games go, but I mostly need this for the screen space.


----------



## Geek Branden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilpandy*
> 
> Posted in the wrong korean panel thread I think... Is a 6850 way underpowered for this monitor? I'm really wanting to move up to a 1440p/27'' and am kind of worried I'll have to upgrade the graphics card too. Gonna mostly be playing LoL as far as games go, but I mostly need this for the screen space.


What OSs are you using other than Windows? Do you intend to play any other games? What is your combined budget?


----------



## jerrolds

You can still use your 6850, you just wont be able to feed [email protected] - but you can still scale to 1080p and not experience input lag and tearing. Itll still look amazing.

Down the line, upgrade and make full use of this panel if you want.

Outside of games tho, your experience will just be as great as everyone elses.


----------



## evilpandy

I'm on windows 7 pro, and am probably not going to be playing too many other games. Probably Dota2 and that's it. I haven't really thought about a budget yet.

Still using the system in my sig, except with a 6850 instead of IGP.


----------



## Latvik

yea I saw that, I was just reading other sites (the classic google "pls vs ips") and so I was reading how they were comparing it to the eIPS etc etc.

edit: also sounds like I want matte finish, any opinions on anti-glare? (dont know if these even have it, was looking at Overlords earlier)


----------



## zenvent

Update:

I received my monitor from http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ and after the initial testing results I can tell you I'm still drooling. x1440 @ 120hz right out of the box, insignificant blb and no dead pixels. This looks and works like a $1000 monitor- great!

I am currently working with Dream Seller on my other monitor, he has kept daily communication with me- seems very friendly and well spoken. I have asked him for a replacement rather than a return, FedEx is supposed to pickup and return the monitor today (Dream Seller's expense).

While ipsledmonitors did send me a perfect monitor, I noticed that it was still shipped from Korea and has the same address as Dream Seller. So the only advantage these guys have over Dream Seller should be the return policy- which I didn't have to use on this monitor. So as it stands I'm not sure it's worth the $60 premium yet or not.

*THM:*
Dream Seller has a cheaper price and very very fast shipping. Customer support is there, and nice- however they take a day to respond.
Ipsledmonitors Costs more but can offer peace of mind (though I cannot verify returns). Phone support is nice and instantly available.

I shall return once more to update on how returns end up going with Dream Seller- if they go smoothly the risk may be worth it.

*I'm also considering a square trade insurance policy, I confirmed that they will cover both of these sellers. They do not ask for a serial number, so I suppose one plan could cover multiple monitors.


----------



## timaishu

Im gonna buy a new dvi cable on my way home from work. My monitor just cannot seem to overclock. I have tried a couple presets I found others used and no luck. Always a single row of vertical pixels turns red.


----------



## zenvent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Im gonna buy a new dvi cable on my way home from work. My monitor just cannot seem to overclock. I have tried a couple presets I found others used and no luck. Always a single row of vertical pixels turns red.


Could be the cable, just don't spend too much. I thought the included cables seemed to be quite nice, but didn't actually try them. I'm using a 15' DVI-D cable from monoprice that was dirt cheap and it's working great for me.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenvent*
> 
> Could be the cable, just don't spend too much. I thought the included cables seemed to be quite nice, but didn't actually try them. I'm using a 15' DVI-D cable from monoprice that was dirt cheap and it's working great for me.


Yeah, Im gonna hit up frys electronics, they seem to have good prices.

The included cable looks good to me, I just figure its worth trying and if not, I will return it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah don't let a potentially underpowered GPU hold you back. Get the display now while you can and upgrade GPU later as needed. Hell, 7950s can be found >$200. 6850 Crossfire isn't bad either. I liked mine but began to run into VRAM bottlenecks with only 1GB (and that was at 1200P).


----------



## shaolin95

Looks like I chose the worst week to get this as nothing will ship until the 23rd :/


----------



## wrigleyvillain

There are tight stock issues in general of late.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilpandy*
> 
> Posted in the wrong korean panel thread I think... Is a 6850 way underpowered for this monitor? I'm really wanting to move up to a 1440p/27'' and am kind of worried I'll have to upgrade the graphics card too. Gonna mostly be playing LoL as far as games go, but I mostly need this for the screen space.


For League, you will be okay. I use a 7950 for Portrait Eyefinity (3240x1920 => 3500x1920 with bezel compensation) and League barely took up any VRAM and had low GPU usage.

For other games like Tomb Raider, Crysis, BF3, your GPU and VRAM aren't good enough. Tomb Raider actually uses the full 3GB of my 7950.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> There are tight stock issues in general of late.


I am just thinking the longest I wait the more expensive they are going to get or maybe we will start getting crappier ones LOL
I found a user selling one used so maybe I will just go with that one. From USA, no dead pixels...safer bet.


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenvent*
> 
> I shall return once more to update on how returns end up going with Dream Seller- if they go smoothly the risk may be worth it.
> 
> *I'm also considering a square trade insurance policy, I confirmed that they will cover both of these sellers. They do not ask for a serial number, so I suppose one plan could cover multiple monitors.


SquareTrade does, in fact, require a serial number to finalize your warranty. I know because I have one on my monitor. In theory you could delay filing the Serial Number until later, but they DO ask for one.


----------



## Semus

Just received my second monitor today. I ordered a pixel perfect glossy X-Star DP2710 from Amazon. Ordered last Wednesday and it showed up this afternoon. It had the exact same black light bleed problem that my Qnix did. I performed the exact same fix, but it seems that there is still BLB on the bottom. I'll have to take the panel out to fix this one, I'm afraid. The really odd part is that I ordered a Pixel Perfect model and there is a stuck green pixel near the center and bottom of the screen off to the right hand side. Very weird they wold sell this as pixel perfect. The pixel showed itself as soon as I turned it on. They need better quality control imo.

However, I can't be mad because there is no discoloration on the monitor at all. I tried an all white screen and it's very uniform across the entire monitor, so that's a plus.

Just wanted to post my results. I'll post some pictures after I set up a dual display with VESA mounts. Right now they are still in their cases and I don't have them VESA mounted. Time to buy some JB Weld black spray paint!


----------



## shaolin95

What is the PP policy. Some are like 2 pixels are still within the PP policies for example do it depends.


----------



## Semus

Directly from Amazon.com: * Perfect Pixel. (Zero Pixel Defect)


----------



## JohanSWEC

Thinking about buying one, just wondering if this is the correct version ? Otherwise if possible, mind linking the correct Matte version from accessorieswhole ? No getting pixel perfect, as it seem to be mostly a ploy to make a little extra.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohanSWEC*
> 
> Thinking about buying one, just wondering if this is the correct version ? Otherwise if possible, mind linking the correct Matte version from accessorieswhole ? No getting pixel perfect, as it seem to be mostly a ploy to make a little extra.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25


That appears to be the correct version. Pixel perfect is mostly a scam with these monitors in my opinion. Again, for the record, this is my opinion. However, the last pixel perfect I got was actually pixel perfect. This could have just been blind luck. Still, I only spent $20 more for it. The back light bleeding is another issue entirely. That requires the user to fix themselves. It's really too bad they haven't figured out how to alleviate these back light bleeding problems with these monitors. This also seems like blind luck.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> What is the PP policy. Some are like 2 pixels are still within the PP policies for example do it depends.


Please see the OP regarding PP. Also this has been discussed quite a bit already. Verdict is PP = Scam.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Please see the OP regarding PP. Also this has been discussed quite a bit already. Verdict is PP = Scam.


I was telling the other user about his recent amazon purchase and PP not asking. I know how the PP thing works and I am not paying for it.


----------



## Coolio831

I'm wondering if I can maybe purchase 2 more monitors, I was looking at getting 2 X-Sars and run my qnix as center. I know nvidia is picky about having 3 of the same brand monitors, but being as they are shown as Generic Plug and Play,will it work? I could also just install the ocn monitor driver and trick nvcp that they are all the same?


----------



## Semus

In my opinion, when an advertisement says (ZERO PIXEL DEFECT), I expect it to be so, regardless of their definition of pixel perfect. This is just my personal feeling, of course, so please don't attack me.

On a more uplifting note, I took the panel apart on my new X-Star and found it to be bent out of shape quite a bit. I proceeded to bend it back as close to perfect as I could possibly get it and re-installed it. I would say the BLB issue is about 98% fixed just from that procedure alone. I still had to do some other tricks with the plastic casing, but that fix was minimal. All-in-all a great purchase.


----------



## RemagCP

I hope these monitors don't do the same thing as hard drives and stay high priced even when the disasters are over.

Makes me sound like a jerk, I'm so sorry!


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> I hope these monitors don't do the same thing as hard drives and stay high priced even when the disasters are over.
> 
> Makes me sound like a jerk, I'm so sorry!


What disasters?


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> That appears to be the correct version. Pixel perfect is mostly a scam with these monitors in my opinion. Again, for the record, this is my opinion. However, the last pixel perfect I got was actually pixel perfect. This could have just been blind luck. Still, I only spent $20 more for it. The back light bleeding is another issue entirely. That requires the user to fix themselves. It's really too bad they haven't figured out how to alleviate these back light bleeding problems with these monitors. This also seems like blind luck.


The one I ordered wasn't labeled pixel perfect or anything and it arrived pixel perfect.


----------



## xZora

Hi there, new to the forums, but lurked this thread for a while. My Qnix QX2710 just came in, and I'm up an running.. but one problem.
It seems that the angle of the monitor is quite drastic. I see a lot of people say that it's only 2-5 degrees, but this feels like nearly 20-25 range.

Does the stand allow for me to tilt this back so it's nearly 90 (since it feels like it might crack), or do I just have to get an aftermarket LCD stand to mount it to?


----------



## zenvent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> SquareTrade does, in fact, require a serial number to finalize your warranty. I know because I have one on my monitor. In theory you could delay filing the Serial Number until later, but they DO ask for one.


Sorry, specifically I mean I don't think they ask for a serial until it's time to file a claim. Am I wrong? They haven't asked for one on my brother's expensive Bose headphones is why I made this assumption.

Thanks.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xZora*
> 
> Hi there, new to the forums, but lurked this thread for a while. My Qnix QX2710 just came in, and I'm up an running.. but one problem.
> It seems that the angle of the monitor is quite drastic. I see a lot of people say that it's only 2-5 degrees, but this feels like nearly 20-25 range.
> 
> Does the stand allow for me to tilt this back so it's nearly 90 (since it feels like it might crack), or do I just have to get an aftermarket LCD stand to mount it to?


Yes you can tilt it forward or back, the stand is just really tight by default.


----------



## xZora

So I can tilt the mechanism that's on the bottom, the piece before the flat stand, it will just feel like I'm about to snap it? And by tight by default, you mean to the point where it actually feels like it's 100% solid?


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenvent*
> 
> Sorry, specifically I mean I don't think they ask for a serial until it's time to file a claim. Am I wrong? They haven't asked for one on my brother's expensive Bose headphones is why I made this assumption.
> 
> Thanks.


No, they ASK you to "Finalize your warranty" via email after you buy it. Like I said, I'm pretty sure you can stall in giving them the serial number or linking / sending in a receipt (assuming it's non-ebay, ebay purchases don't need receipts). But they DO ask.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xZora*
> 
> So I can tilt the mechanism that's on the bottom, the piece before the flat stand, it will just feel like I'm about to snap it? And by tight by default, you mean to the point where it actually feels like it's 100% solid?


I had to push really hard to get my monitor to tilt.

Watch this video to see more about where / how it tilts:


----------



## timaishu

Okay, I think I am gonna completely give up on overclocking this qnix. I tried 72hz and cant do that without a line.

It is one single row of vertical pixels which are problematic. At 60hz they are not there, but 72 it is faint, at 96 it is obvious, at 120 it is very obvious. The higher the frequency, the more red they turn.


----------



## Geek Branden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilpandy*
> 
> I'm on windows 7 pro, and am probably not going to be playing too many other games. Probably Dota2 and that's it. I haven't really thought about a budget yet.
> 
> Still using the system in my sig, except with a 6850 instead of IGP.


I think that you might not be able to play your games at the highest available graphical settings using a 1440p monitor. It would be a good idea to get a more powerful GPU. You do not need a GTX 780 or Radeon 7970 for the games you intend to play. The price for a 7950 is very reasonable now. I have one inside my gaming rig. I do, however, fully intend to replace it with a Nvidia flagship due to fan noise and poor driver support for Linux kernel OSs. I would avoid Crossfire and SLI unless you intend to have a multi-monitor setup.

___


----------



## viwe649

Hey guys,

Just wondering if you guys have used the ASUS PB278Q color profile on the QNIX?? It's freaking amazing!

Just hope somebody would make a similar one for 120hz at full brightness.


----------



## jerrolds

I think i tried every profile on the front page - i *may* have ended up with that one. I used my calibrated Panasonic and Overlord Tempest to tweak by eye - but i also had to up the Brightness in CCC by 12, Contrast by 5, and warm up the Temperature to 6300k and the OSD brightness to 15 clicks from the bottom.

I'm happy with it now. (This is at 120hz w/ @459Mhz pixel clock - default LCD Reduced is even darker)


----------



## shaolin95

I finally pulled the trigger yesterday night and got the Qnix PP Matte from http://www.overclockmonitor.com. I was reading about Dual Link...I am not so clear about that. Does the Monitor come already with that cable? From what I read my GTX660ti supports it. I was going to sell the 660 and use a GTX260 but now I think I better not do that, even though gaming is not the reason I bought the monitor for.
So any clarification about the cable and if I need to buy one is appreciated.

BTW, I have non idea how they do it but I ordered yesterday night and today I got a notification from UPS that the package will be delivered tomorrow! I cant wait


----------



## benedrix

hello guys i just received my qnix matte from amazon.co.uk from MNW GLOBAL INC. Ordered Friday and came by monday, no customs charges or delivery charges.Came with an adapter for british plugs, dvi cable, audio cable and a personal letter!! I highly recommend this seller to British people. Maybe put it on the original forum post for other fellow brits to see.

Anyways i was wondering if you guys could tell if the light bleed on my monitor is that bad, see attachments. Is it worth sending it back to get another? Because my monitor has no dead pixels. The monitor is absolutely awesome btw.

Any questions plz ask.









Also i don't understand the colour profiles thing, can anyone explain? Do i just double click those icc files?


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benedrix*
> 
> Also i don't understand the colour profiles thing, can anyone explain? Do i just double click those icc files?


Check out, "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" and you'll see "Color Calibration Profiles and How to install them" in the OP. . Tons of good info there.

I used the recommended Asus PB278Q.icc profile and think it looks great.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well you can right-click and choose Install Profile but there is a bit more to it than that especially to ensure that Windows uses the ICC's gamma adjustment as well (otherwise you often don't see much difference). Start in the OP as said and there is a really good guide about ICC installation at TFTCentral (think linked in OP).

As for your bleed it's generally not that bad and that one spot on the bottom right may be able to be reduced by simply removing the bottom screws from that side.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Okay, I think I am gonna completely give up on overclocking this qnix _on my ancient 5850_


Fixed that for ya.







You are the one of the *very* few to report such difficulties so at this point I would say it's likely not the monitor. There's hope yet!


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well you can right-click and choose Install Profile but there is a bit more to it than that especially to ensure that Windows uses the ICC's gamma adjustment as well (otherwise you often don't see much difference). Start in the OP as said and there is a really good guide about ICC installation at TFTCentral (think linked in OP).
> Fixed that for ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are the one of the *very* few to report such difficulties so at this point I would say it's likely not the monitor.


Haha sorry, I need to change that. I actually have a 7950


----------



## benedrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Check out, "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" and you'll see "Color Calibration Profiles and How to install them" in the OP. . Tons of good info there.
> 
> thanks but what about my light bleed?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Haha sorry, I need to change that. I actually have a 7950


Doh! Surprising. Really, the vast majority can do 96 at least as you likely know. Well, I still wouldn't give up *totally*. Next time you change major "factors in your equation" such as a new GPU or even a new Windows install I'd try it again. You never know...

Doubtful it's such but have you at least tried different Catalyst drivers? Perhaps the newest 13.10 betas?


----------



## Net200777

From what I noticed getting rid of the blb, different things have worked for different people.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Any suggestions as to which seller to buy from? I'm in the UK if that matters. Also anyone know what import fees are going to be?


----------



## benedrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Any suggestions as to which seller to buy from? I'm in the UK if that matters. Also anyone know what import fees are going to be?


i got this one off amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DW5WA12/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but no more left.

look at my post on the previous page more details there


----------



## benedrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well you can right-click and choose Install Profile but there is a bit more to it than that especially to ensure that Windows uses the ICC's gamma adjustment as well (otherwise you often don't see much difference). Start in the OP as said and there is a really good guide about ICC installation at TFTCentral (think linked in OP).
> 
> As for your bleed it's generally not that bad and that one spot on the bottom right may be able to be reduced by simply removing the bottom screws from that side.
> Fixed that for ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are the one of the *very* few to report such difficulties so at this point I would say it's likely not the monitor. There's hope yet!


Thankyou! I will try to remove some screws on that side then. This monitor is the best ive ever seen of any TV/monitor, theres so many pixels facebook home feed only takes up 1/3 of the screen with browser fullscreen. Its looks great in games too, soooo much sharper than my last monitor and soooo much brighter.

Also I think the stuff about taxes in the uk on the main page is a bit confusing, it needs we written and u should put some good sllers for british people there as well.

"hello guys i just received my qnix matte from amazon.co.uk from *MNW GLOBAL INC*. Ordered Friday and came by monday, no customs charges or delivery charges.Came with an adapter for british plugs, dvi cable, audio cable and a personal letter!! I highly recommend this seller to British people. "


----------



## $ilent

Guys im about to buy a QX2710, from hulustar, its this item here - http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541

I take it theres nothing I should be aware of that should stop me buying this monitor is there?

thanks all


----------



## jerrolds

I used accessorieswide - shipped Wed, arrived Mon - and when i complained about the excessive BLB, they were pretty prompt on responses (a day max) and i ended up getting some credit back.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Guys im about to buy a QX2710, from hulustar, its this item here - http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130868312541
> 
> I take it theres nothing I should be aware of that should stop me buying this monitor is there?
> 
> thanks all


Why not buy PP (they claim 0 pixels is their policy) for $319 ($10 off when you sign up) from OverclockMonitor.com?
I ordered mine yesterday late for me and was shipped the same day and it is going to be delivered tomorrow. I was able to get constant fast replies to all my inquiries.
I cannot be 100% is a great deal until I get it tomorrow but so far, I am impressed.


----------



## $ilent

For some reason the normal QX2710 and PP QX2710 from green-sum doesnt ship to UK, so I ordered this one from greensum instead - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140997037695


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Why not buy PP (they claim 0 pixels is their policy) for $319 ($10 off when you sign up) from OverclockMonitor.com?
> I ordered mine yesterday late for me and was shipped the same day and it is going to be delivered tomorrow. I was able to get constant fast replies to all my inquiries.
> I cannot be 100% is a great deal until I get it tomorrow but so far, I am impressed.


Because when it says perfect pixel it generally does not count dark pixels, bright pixels or stuck pixels. Also if it has dead pixels and they can actually be proven to be dead pixels then do they refund you/RMA or are they going to try and refund a certain amount relative to the amount of dead pixel(NOT counting dark, bright or stuck). These are important questions to ask before trying a commonly known scam. If they count dark, bright and stuck pixels in their PP policy and it is a full RMA/refund then i agree it would be a great deal. It would also be made better if it could be bought in conjunction with a square trade warranty as teh ST warranty would be in line with the PP policy.


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Why not buy PP (they claim 0 pixels is their policy) for $319 ($10 off when you sign up) from OverclockMonitor.com?
> I ordered mine yesterday late for me and was shipped the same day and it is going to be delivered tomorrow. I was able to get constant fast replies to all my inquiries.
> I cannot be 100% is a great deal until I get it tomorrow but so far, I am impressed.


Perfect pixel is a scam. They allow a few dead pixels, and there's no reason to believe that you'll get a better monitor than a regular.


----------



## shaolin95

Yes but still, the price is cheaper and at least there will be no dead pixels (even if dark ones are not counted) so price wise is cheaper so that was my point. I was not going to pay extra for PP if it was the usual $30 or more that people ask for.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Perfect pixel is a scam. They allow a few dead pixels, and there's no reason to believe that you'll get a b etter monitor than a regular.


Again, see his link, is $345 , mine is $319 so whats your point? PP or not, is still cheaper mate.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Again, see his link, is $345 , mine is $319 so whats your point? PP or not, is still cheaper mate.


Well that may be so, but ive never bought anything from overclockmonitor.com....id rather stick to ebay and follow everyone else.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Again, see his link, is $345 , mine is $319 so whats your point? PP or not, is still cheaper mate.


overclockmonitor registered their domain a month ago, you're likely their first customer...

at any rate, it appears to be a korean ebay sellers site, just like http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/. If you buy from a korean seller on ebay you at least have ebay buyer protection to file a claim, which many have resorted to. If you buy from an outside website, you pretty much have no ability to file a claim. I would at least go with a site that has a store address/phone number.


----------



## $ilent

Does anyone else find it strange that green-sum only delivers to the UK on his *free express* shipped monitor? His PP one and normal shipping one doesnt post to UK...


----------



## L33k

I recently purchased the x-star from dream-seller. When it arrived it had bad back light bleed and one dead pixel. It overclocked to 110 hz before getting some bits of artifacts or distortion when it laced. I reduced it to 100 hz and it has been an excellent monitor since. The two discrepancies have not bothered me until last night when I noticed another issue.

I went from a excel spreadsheet to windows 8 start menu, which is a solid color (green for me) and apps with blank space around the apps for those who don't know, and noticed in the top right of the screen the excel screen image *burned into the screen* kind of like a plasma would, except with detail.... Now this on top of the other two issues, and the rather LONG shipping time it took to get to me (2 1/2 weeks), is really bothering me. Is this normal amoung the panel?

Anyone have the same issue? Can it be fixed?

TL;DR My x-star panel is burning images and wonder *** is up.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Well that may be so, but ive never bought anything from overclockmonitor.com....id rather stick to ebay and follow everyone else.


Your money not mine.
Regards


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> Perfect pixel is a scam. They allow a few dead pixels, and there's no reason to believe that you'll get a better monitor than a regular.


It depends on the seller.


----------



## sWaY20

Is this a glossy monitor? I know the others say "Glossy" but im not sure about "tempered glass"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121163916866?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Anyone able to say anything about the backlight uniformity of the X-Star? Like, can you see where its lighter and darker when you move dark windows around, and such.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Is this a glossy monitor? I know the others say "Glossy" but im not sure about "tempered glass"
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121163916866?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Ive read a few pages in this thread and noticed people saying the tempered glass one arrived after supposedly ordering glossy one IIRC.


----------



## L33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33k*
> 
> I recently purchased the x-star from dream-seller. When it arrived it had bad back light bleed and one dead pixel. It overclocked to 110 hz before getting some bits of artifacts or distortion when it laced. I reduced it to 100 hz and it has been an excellent monitor since. The two discrepancies have not bothered me until last night when I noticed another issue.
> 
> I went from a excel spreadsheet to windows 8 start menu, which is a solid color (green for me) and apps with blank space around the apps for those who don't know, and noticed in the top right of the screen the excel screen image *burned into the screen* kind of like a plasma would, except with detail.... Now this on top of the other two issues, and the rather LONG shipping time it took to get to me (2 1/2 weeks), is really bothering me. Is this normal amoung the panel?
> 
> Anyone have the same issue? Can it be fixed?
> 
> TL;DR My x-star panel is burning images and wonder *** is up.


BUMP not sure if anyone saw it since it ended up on the last page/last post before people started to reply to others


----------



## $ilent

maybe try underclock it some more L33k? or see if it does it at 60hz?


----------



## L33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> maybe try underclock it some more L33k? or see if it does it at 60hz?


That was the first thing I tried. It made the "burn" less defined but still there and still annoying


----------



## $ilent

maybe its a fault? not seen many others mentioning that sort of problem.


----------



## L33k

I have contacted dream seller but I am out of the warranty the day after I got it due to the long shipping. Also he is on vacation until 9/22


----------



## $ilent

These ebay sellers enjoy vacations, all the more power to them I suppose if they are making money


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Ive read a few pages in this thread and noticed people saying the tempered glass one arrived after supposedly ordering glossy one IIRC.


That happened to me. It also had a defect so I returned mine. It FINALLY made it back after well over a week and now I'm getting my replacement shipped to me...after Korean Thanksgiving


----------



## MaIakai

Registered just to say Bought an X-star last Wednesday, Still not here but I have tracking. Will post pics of BLB when Ig et it.


----------



## yesitsmario

Hey guys, does watching youtube videos at 480p suck with one of these high res monitors? I ask because 480p is usually the smoothest playback with no buffer. There's just a bunch of issues lately with youtube and different isps having buffer problems. I can get 720p to work on youtube ~70% of the time. 1080p is more like 50/50.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yesitsmario*
> 
> Hey guys, does watching youtube videos at 480p suck with one of these high res monitors? I ask because 480p is usually the smoothest playback with no buffer. There's just a bunch of issues lately with youtube and different isps having buffer problems. I can get 720p to work on youtube ~70% of the time. 1080p is more like 50/50.


Yes and no. Take a few steps back(6ft maybe) and it will look OK but sitting 2-3ft from the screen 480p will look terrible without upscaling and filtering. Best thing that i would do is open your video at 720p or 1080p and let it sit for a couple minutes to let the buffer exceed your playback by a bit then play the video. That way you don't sit on your cache so to speak.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> That happened to me. It also had a defect so I returned mine. It FINALLY made it back after well over a week and now I'm getting my replacement shipped to me...after Korean Thanksgiving


Ive just ordered too and seen that notice about thanksgiving, it says will ship after 24th or 26th...so not gonna be here in sept i dont think.


----------



## gl3nnn

Hi. For Qnix users, theres like a 'button' beside the blue LED power button. What exactly is it for. I kinda pushed it in and now its stuck?


----------



## tingc222

Same with mine. Quite sure it's a placeholder?


----------



## gl3nnn

So it does nothing? Cuz it's really stuck in there.


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl3nnn*
> 
> So it does nothing? Cuz it's really stuck in there.


It's not connected to anything.
This bezel is used by a lot of korean/chinese companies.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

lol yes that's where the OSD button would be if these had one. As said this bezel gets around.

Wait there's a Korean Thanksgiving?


----------



## wntrsnowg

That button is just hot glue gunned in place. Nothing was actually broken


----------



## picket23

Little bit of BLB top right, so far hasn't made me want to open it at all


No bright pixels, haven't come across any dead pixels. This sample seems pretty well put together all around I'm happy to report.

Overclocks to 120hz using stock cable! Accessorieswhole was the seller, non pixel perfect.
Was really expecting to get dudded here, thought all the good panels might have been sold by now. Happy that this was not the case, not so far anyway.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Way to check out the first post, bro.


----------



## jerrolds

Almost perfect BLB - congrats







It looks like the top right of the metal frame is putting a bit too much pressure on the panel - not worth opening up imo. Probably not noticeable at medium brightness.


----------



## wntrsnowg

That's a nice screen you've got there picket23. Also, welcome to ocn!


----------



## kroken

Why so many defected screens? where can i buy one perfect without bad pixels?







)

Red-cap offers a pretty good pixel warrenty right?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> Why so many defected screens? where can i buy one perfect without bad pixels?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


From Dell. Or Apple. Or HP. Or Samsung.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Sure you can get a Dell etc with no DP guaranteed...you just may have to get it replaced two or three times first. Granted it's a whole lot easier to do so though. And I still have the impression most of these do not have pixel defects same as a name brand unit.


----------



## paulkon

In my opinion, one of the best parts about getting one of these monitors is that you won't have to feel bad when 4K monitors become mainstream after 3-5 years and you feel the urge to switch. The prices on these Korean monitors make it easy to buy without regret.


----------



## JohanSWEC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Sure you can get a Dell etc with no DP guaranteed...you just may have to get it replaced two or three times first. Granted it's a whole lot easier to do so though. And I still have the impression most of these do not have pixel defects same as a name brand unit.


Well, as far I've read, it's not really a issue with defect pixels. And if you do get unlucky, it's like what 1-2 defect pixels ? That's acceptable results, with such a price like these. The main problem with them seems to be backlight bleed, or ?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Agreed. Not just price but also such a high total pixel count. Of course location of dead ones can matter in addition to number. But more than person has said they have a few and do not really notice unless searching them out.


----------



## kroken

Wich sellers have the cheapest one?


----------



## L33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> lol yes that's where the OSD button would be if these had one. As said this bezel gets around.
> 
> Wait there's a Korean Thanksgiving?


Inorite! My screen is burning images into the panel and I wrote dream-seller an email and it said he was out until 9/22 for Korean thanksgiving. Didn't know there were Indians and pilgrims in Korea hahaha j/k


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> Wich sellers have the cheapest one?


On ebay search 2560x1440 Qnix(or xstar) and sort by price lowest to highest and you will have your answer.


----------



## Kokin

The prices are higher right now than before though. A few weeks ago, prices were at $260~300 for a matte non-perfect pixel Qnix/X-star. Now, prices are $300~330.


----------



## kroken

this two same as the qnix? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e6fcfb462

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-New-Crossover-27QW-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-AH-IPS-/130978066076?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7ee6ae9c

overclock possible 90+HZ?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> this two same as the qnix? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e6fcfb462
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-New-Crossover-27QW-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-AH-IPS-/130978066076?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7ee6ae9c
> 
> overclock possible 90+HZ?


Umm no it very clearly says "Crossover" and "IPS" not "Qnix" and "PLS". Not sure how you thought otherwise. And no they won't overclock without an alternate PCB(overlord).


----------



## kroken

Looks like the same to me except the design lol.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Do any Ebay sellers do BLB perfect ones like they do perfect pixel ones?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Do any Ebay sellers do BLB perfect ones like they do perfect pixel ones?


I seriously doubt any of them actually open it up and look at anything. I think they just sell and hope you don't return it. There's no real good way to measure BLB and IPS/PLS monitors are prone to it so you'll probably never see that with the ebay sellers. The big name retailers will accept BLB returns but even they send them out like that and hope you don't return it. I have many devices with IPS displays and almost all have some sort of BLB. I've only returned two for severity issues, one monitor and one laptop.


----------



## leafonthewind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yesitsmario*
> 
> Hey guys, does watching youtube videos at 480p suck with one of these high res monitors? I ask because 480p is usually the smoothest playback with no buffer. There's just a bunch of issues lately with youtube and different isps having buffer problems. I can get 720p to work on youtube ~70% of the time. 1080p is more like 50/50.


This might help with your streaming problems, it lets you preload the whole video
http://lifehacker.com/preload-entire-youtube-videos-by-disabling-dash-playbac-1186454034


----------



## Cookybiscuit

I doubt I'd care about dead pixels on a 1440p monitor, but its the uncertainty around BLB and lack of ability to return it thats stopping me getting one of these. I've lived so long with 120Hz that its another thing I couldn't do without, again overclocking on these isn't a guarantee, but I suppose overclocking never is.

Has anyone ever had the seller actually accept a return on one of these? Do people get ones with bad colour, backlight or contrast uniformity on them? Worst thing about my last monitor was how crap the backlight was.


----------



## jerrolds

I have not seen any Korean sellers that offer a BLB protection other than (obviously excessive to a point where its a defect) - as BLB is considered normal to IPS/PLS panels.

Its has a way bigger grey area. Mine was really really undeniably bad, and they tried to say it was normal - after a few days theyre saying i can get a partial refund, which im ok with since i opened it up and fixed it - but this might not have been the best answer to those not willing to actually tear it apart.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The prices are higher right now than before though. A few weeks ago, prices were at $260~300 for a matte non-perfect pixel Qnix/X-star. Now, prices are $300~330.


The prices ive seen are either like $319 but $20 shipping, or $345 and free shipping. Would have been ace to get one back when they were like $270


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> I doubt I'd care about dead pixels on a 1440p monitor, but its the uncertainty around BLB and lack of ability to return it thats stopping me getting one of these. I've lived so long with 120Hz that its another thing I couldn't do without, again overclocking on these isn't a guarantee, but I suppose overclocking never is.
> 
> Has anyone ever had the seller actually accept a return on one of these? Do people get ones with bad colour, backlight or contrast uniformity on them? Worst thing about my last monitor was how crap the backlight was.


I had uniformity problems(small dark spot) and got mine returned. The seller is sending me a new one after their holiday. I also had a dead pixel which I had to struggle to even find, let alone care about. BLB was average when compared to other monitors. The main thing about these is you can easily open them up and fix the bleed. Some of these new monitors don't have screws, so taking them apart is a real chore. Overall I was happy except for the dark spot. Oh yeah, and the glass fell off mine so don't get the tempered glass. It's held on by a thin piece of tape and they don't even clean the dust before putting it on! For $280, it was a no brainer purchase. If I had to pay mid-$300, I think I would look to spend the extra $200 for the Tempest monitors. At least they test the OC before it ships and I hear their QC is good. Still, if money is an issue, these monitors are a steal.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I have not seen any Korean sellers that offer a BLB protection other than (obviously excessive to a point where its a defect) - as BLB is considered normal to IPS/PLS panels.
> 
> Its has a way bigger grey area. Mine was really really undeniably bad, and they tried to say it was normal - after a few days theyre saying i can get a partial refund, which im ok with since i opened it up and fixed it - but this might not have been the best answer to those not willing to actually tear it apart.


How good was the refund?


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> think I would look to spend the extra $200 for the Tempest monitors. At least they test the OC before it ships and I hear their QC is good.


I can vouch for that - Tempest OCs are hand checked before shipping out, BLB is very minimal (Scribby had to basically hire a (3rd party) team of QA in China, and return i think 2 batches since they tested so poorly. In the end they were quality monitors, uniformity was good, very good BLB, and 96hz+ OC.

Not sure if he's changed his policies lately though.


----------



## JohanSWEC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leafonthewind*
> 
> This might help with your streaming problems, it lets you preload the whole video
> http://lifehacker.com/preload-entire-youtube-videos-by-disabling-dash-playbac-1186454034


Thanks, remember doing this earlier this year, but had to re-install OS. And totally forgot about how awesome it is, me be watching 720P HD now!


----------



## JohanSWEC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> How good was the refund?


Last I read about refunds, it seems to be either send it back for a new screen or accept a partal refund ? Might be totally wrong though, but remember reading about it. Might've been on the Sweclockers though...


----------



## paulkon

So, I got my Qnix today and I'm not sure if this is burn-in or something else or how to fix it:

*@60Hz:*



*@120Hz:*



Any ideas on solving this? I still see some remnants of what looks like burn-in @96Hz as well.


----------



## caenlen

Overclocked my monitor, some games work fine, other games load but when they load all you can hear is the audio and the monitor starts cycling through all the colors? Anyone know what to do here? Most of my games work fine though with the Overclock.

114hz QNIX PLS 1440p

amd patched, and CCC both DVI boxes checked, and CRU extension block i tried both checked and unchecked it made no diff.

thoughts?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> Overclocked my monitor, some games work fine, other games load but when they load all you can hear is the audio and the monitor starts cycling through all the colors? Anyone know what to do here? Most of my games work fine though with the Overclock.
> 
> 114hz QNIX PLS 1440p
> 
> amd patched, and CCC both DVI boxes checked, and CRU extension block i tried both checked and unchecked it made no diff.
> 
> thoughts?


1. What games?
2. Are there pre-defined display settings for the game?
3. Does the game load at lower refresh rates ok?
4. Does the game load ok in windowed mode?
5. Does that game actually support that frame rate?
6. do you have an Nvidia card or an ATI card?
7. Have you checked the game's 3D settings in your drivers?
8. Have you tried looking up any info about this particular game not loading properly?
9. Does the game load on other monitors? Without the overclock set up on this monitor?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> So, I got my Qnix today and I'm not sure if this is burn-in or something else or how to fix it:
> 
> *@60Hz:*
> 
> 
> 
> *@120Hz:*
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas on solving this? I still see some remnants of what looks like burn-in @96Hz as well.


Try searching "clouding" in this thread and the crossover thread. Also you can optimize your timings to not have so much gamma shift and color uniformity. This is NOT burn-in(which does *NOT* happen with these monitors at all. These monitor have color retention at overclocked speeds which is temporary)


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Thanks for the answers. So I get that these are made by a no brand company, alot of the parts are crap, it has no OSD, no speakers (realistically) etc. being this cheap is the image actually as good as a 'proper' 1440p display made by say Dell or Asus or something? Is 120Hz on these like 120Hz on TN?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Thanks for the answers. So I get that these are made by a no brand company, alot of the parts are crap, it has no OSD, no speakers (realistically) etc. being this cheap is the image actually as good as a 'proper' 1440p display made by say Dell or Asus or something? Is 120Hz on these like 120Hz on TN?


The panel itself is the exact same panel that you would find in a "proper" display by Dell or ASUS. The screen is a PLS panel made by Samsung, I beleive the OP mentions a few brand-name displays that use the same one. The image quality _should_ be exactly the same. With these, you might just have to worry about some BLB or dead/stuck pixels.

And yes, its is TRUE 120Hz, no frame skipping, assuming you can get yours to 120. Results may vary.







But 96Hz is almost guaranteed based on the recorded results so far.


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Try searching "clouding" in this thread and the crossover thread. Also you can optimize your timings to not have so much gamma shift and color uniformity. This is NOT burn-in(which does *NOT* happen with these monitors at all. These monitor have color retention at overclocked speeds which is temporary)


I tightened the timings down to 459 MHz and after searching for "clouding" I haven't come across any fixes to the specific problem I'm having. Is the fix to just wait it out and see if it gets better?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Right thanks, I just hate playing anything by chance, wish I could just pay another $100 or something and have them go through a few to get a good one, especially when its coming all the way from Korea I'd be screwed if it were bad.

Is back-light bleed even noticeable? My current has 0, and my last had the tiniest amount around all edges, so I have no idea. Seems to me like the BLB people complain about with these are almost always in one corner. I game and thats about it.

Also, X-Star over QNIX, no?


----------



## jerrolds

You can order QNIX from amazon and ipsledmonitors.com if you like, also people are getting 3rd party warranties (squaretrade) for even more protection .


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> I tightened the timings down to 459 MHz and after searching for "clouding" I haven't come across any fixes to the specific problem I'm having. Is the fix to just wait it out and see if it gets better?


The clouding type fix was basically identical to the BLB fix. It was a form of more securing the panel in the cheap bezel and casing that it comes in. There was a before and after post in the crossover forum that was quite appealing. The first picture looked like your 120hz pic and the after pic looked as clear as your 60hz post. It may or may not help in this situation due to the clouding being a byproduct of the overclock but would be worth a try(at least to me). Also by calibrating you can make it much less apparent.


----------



## paulkon

Looks like I'll have to clean the backlight array to get rid of the clouding: 




Anyone ever done this before? It looks risky...


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Looks like I'll have to clean the backlight array to get rid of the clouding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever done this before? It looks risky...


Watch the teardown videos on the 1st post. It shows how to get to it. It's quite involved which is why I just returned mine for a replacement - but certainly doable. Just make sure you have a couple hours to work. By the time I get my replacement it will have been 3 weeks so I'm almost wishing I tried to fix it myself first...


----------



## sonano

Just want to vouch for overclockmonitor.com. link: (http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html)

I bought a Perfect Pixel Qnix from them, $319 with the sale. Customer service was friendly and helpful. Arrived in 2 days from Korea to Canada, well protected with bubble wrap. Their Perfect Pixel policy is 0 dead/bright pixels, and sure enough there were none on mine.

I'd recommend giving overclockmonitor.com a shot, the only downside is no Ebay protection support. Compared to ebay sellers, the price is very cheap for a guaranteed 0 dead pixel monitor.


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Watch the teardown videos on the 1st post. It shows how to get to it. It's quite involved which is why I just returned mine for a replacement - but certainly doable. Just make sure you have a couple hours to work. By the time I get my replacement it will have been 3 weeks so I'm almost wishing I tried to fix it myself first...


Just saw 



 and I'm scared about how it'll look when I put it back together. I guess it's either this or contacting the seller for a replacement which who knows when will come back... I suppose I'll wear some gloves and do it very carefully.

It almost feels like I would need access to a clean room environment in order to do this without fear of other crap getting in-between the diffuser and LCD lol


----------



## Semus

Am I to understand that when you change any of the three boxes in the "Frequency" (red box) section that they all work together and cannot be changed individually? You can edit them individually, but when you change one number the others change with it. Therefore, I don't see where you can just change one number and not have the others affected.

CRU image below...

Untitled-1.jpg 108k .jpg file


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Anyone know about overclocking the monitor and GPU at the same time? I read someone say it doesn't work but I don't know if theres any truth in it.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Anyone know about overclocking the monitor and GPU at the same time? I read someone say it doesn't work but I don't know if theres any truth in it.


Completely separate. My CPU/GPU/Monitor are all overclocked.


----------



## timaishu

Anyone else here have 0 luck overclocking? I didn't buy into this expecting more than 60hz, but I am kinda bummed that I cant go passed it despite seemingly everyone else being able to.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Do you have the multi display output version?


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Do you have the multi display output version?


Nope, its dvi only.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Anyone else here have 0 luck overclocking? I didn't buy into this expecting more than 60hz, but I am kinda bummed that I cant go passed it despite seemingly everyone else being able to.


Unless you have the multi-input model or the PCB has changed i don't see how you can NOT get any amount of overclocking without doing something wrong.
Which method are you trying?
Patched for sure?
Monitor driver correct? (catleap custom driver or generic?)
What exactly is the error you are getting back when trying to even overclock to 61hz?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Completely separate. My CPU/GPU/Monitor are all overclocked.


This is true but depending on what GPU you have it can cause the side effects to be more predominant(uniformity mostly). I have tested this with 3 cards being my 570, and 760, and an ATI card i got a while back for overdrive testing. Nvidia cards seemed to have increased negative effects with the GPU overclocked but the ATI card did not(at least from what i could tell). I would say go for it unless you notice negative effects in overclocking both.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> Am I to understand that when you change any of the three boxes in the "Frequency" (red box) section that they all work together and cannot be changed individually? You can edit them individually, but when you change one number the others change with it. Therefore, I don't see where you can just change one number and not have the others affected.
> 
> CRU image below...
> 
> Untitled-1.jpg 108k .jpg file


Yes this is true because your blanking has to be in sync with the rest of the process. Mainly the front porch, back porch and total pixel count is where your tweaking will centralize and yes it will change across the frequency board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Looks like I'll have to clean the backlight array to get rid of the clouding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever done this before? It looks risky...


I have and it is a bit risky without proper environment, gloves and cleaning materials. Definitely doable and when you start it is like seating a CPU for the first time. You get better and used to it. So with that being said practice a bit on a busted LCD panel first and then try the real thing.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Anyone else here have 0 luck overclocking? I didn't buy into this expecting more than 60hz, but I am kinda bummed that I cant go passed it despite seemingly everyone else being able to.


What exactly is the issue? It won't display overclocked at all or is it just not "flawless" OC? Have you tried a different cable? I know others have mentioned different timings with CRU.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Anyone else here have 0 luck overclocking? I didn't buy into this expecting more than 60hz, but I am kinda bummed that I cant go passed it despite seemingly everyone else being able to.


Your positive your changing the correct CRU values? Normally it says something like (active*) beside the monitor label.


----------



## timaishu

^^^^ I followed a guide I found that involved installing and ati patch and then using cru. There is a single row of vertical pixels that turns red.

I have tried 72hz using LCD reduced and letting it chose the values and I can see a faint line appear. If I bump it up to 96hz, the line turns more red, at 120hz, the line is much more apparent. Seems the higher I go, the more red it gets. When I put it back to 60hz, the line completely disappears.

I am using the supplied cable, amd drivers are up-to-date.

I guess I should reiterate that I have not tried 61hz, as that would be a pointless non noticeable overclock. I am just trying the standard clocks I have seen others achieve.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Your positive your changing the correct CRU values? Normally it says something like (active*) beside the monitor label.


I second this question and for the sake of efficiency helping you out could you post your timings? (screen shot proffered)


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> ^^^^ I followed a guide I found that involved installing and ati patch and then using cru. There is a single row of vertical pixels that turns red.
> 
> I have tried 72hz using LCD reduced and letting it chose the values and I can see a faint line appear. If I bump it up to 96hz, the line turns more red, at 120hz, the line is much more apparent. Seems the higher I go, the more red it gets. When I put it back to 60hz, the line completely disappears.
> 
> I am using the supplied cable, amd drivers are up-to-date.
> 
> I guess I should reiterate that I have not tried 61hz, as that would be a pointless non noticeable overclock. I am just trying the standard clocks I have seen others achieve.


get a better dvi cable


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> ^^^^ I followed a guide I found that involved installing and ati patch and then using cru. There is a single row of vertical pixels that turns red.
> 
> I have tried 72hz using LCD reduced and letting it chose the values and I can see a faint line appear. If I bump it up to 96hz, the line turns more red, at 120hz, the line is much more apparent. Seems the higher I go, the more red it gets. When I put it back to 60hz, the line completely disappears.
> 
> I guess I should reiterate that I have not tried 61hz, as that would be a pointless non noticeable overclock. I am just trying the standard clocks I have seen others achieve.


61 hz would be to see if ANY overclock speed was achievable. You did not clearly explain what you were seeing as you are able to overclock but your getting an artifact in return. This is very likely a weak point in the panel which is the primary reason for some of these panels to not be overclocked sometimes, not that they can't but they have a visual defect at any higher speed. There has been others with this issue although it has been rare it does happen. You can try tweaking the timings and trying a few different cables to see if that helps but there may not be any way to eliminate the effect(which has happen before with other members though not often). It is very unfortunate because there is no real way to get around it other than keeping the pixel clock low(which the stress causes this to be apparent) and having a good solid cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> get a better dvi cable


This may or may not help but certainly worth a try.


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> ^^^^ I followed a guide I found that involved installing and ati patch and then using cru. There is a single row of vertical pixels that turns red.
> 
> I have tried 72hz using LCD reduced and letting it chose the values and I can see a faint line appear. If I bump it up to 96hz, the line turns more red, at 120hz, the line is much more apparent. Seems the higher I go, the more red it gets. When I put it back to 60hz, the line completely disappears.
> 
> I am using the supplied cable, amd drivers are up-to-date.
> 
> I guess I should reiterate that I have not tried 61hz, as that would be a pointless non noticeable overclock. I am just trying the standard clocks I have seen others achieve.


I think those lines of pixels are related to the DVI cable. Try a better connection, or better yet try a completely different cable. You should have had a cable supplied to you when you got the monitor. Are you using the one they supplied? Are you using your own? I would swap them out and see if it makes a difference.


----------



## timaishu

I might order one from mono price and see what happens. I am gonna gonna return in as that would be a dumb reason when I have 0 dead pixels and minimal blb. I would be afraid of risking the chance of ending up with worse panel in terms of dead pixels and blb.

Ill post some timings later tonight after I do homework.


----------



## jerrolds

I wonder if opening it up and reseating the cables will help - you know what i would do?

Id sell it locally - put it up on Kijiji or whatever the equivalent is for the US (Craigslist)? Compare it against the price of an Apple Thunderbolt ($1000) and say its faster 8ms vs 12ms, clearer if its Glossy, has no input lag and sell it for $350 or so.

I sold my old Crossover LED-P for $450CDN a couple months ago with that strategy, as long as you advertise it correctly - there will be a casual who wont know about QNIX/Korean Scene and would love to get an Apple Thunderbolt like display for 1/3rd of the price.

In the meantime (or wait after youve sold it) - try your luck again, seriously youre the only person that hasnt been able to overclock to 96hz


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I wonder if opening it up and reseating the cables will help - you know what i would do?
> 
> Id sell it locally - put it up on Kijiji or whatever the equivalent is for the US (Craigslist)? Compare it against the price of an Apple Thunderbolt ($1000) and say its faster 8ms vs 12ms, clearer if its Glossy, has no input lag and sell it for $350 or so.
> 
> I sold my old Crossover LED-P for $450CDN a couple months ago with that strategy, as long as you advertise it correctly - there will be a casual who wont know about QNIX/Korean Scene and would love to get an Apple Thunderbolt like display for 1/3rd of the price.
> 
> In the meantime (or wait after youve sold it) - try your luck again, seriously youre the only person that hasnt been able to overclock to 96hz


I COULD return it as I bought it from ipsledmonitors.com and they claim a no questions asked 30 days return policy. I just feel its too risky, what if I got one back with dead pixels and worse blb. Is it really worth the trade off? I don't know. I will try a new cable though. Will buy one off mono price and see what happens.


----------



## paulkon

Has anyone returned a defective panel to accessorieswhole and *not* had to pay the return shipping cost? e.g. clouding


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Has anyone returned a defective panel to accessorieswhole and *not* had to pay the return shipping cost? Does any seller cover the return shipping cost for a replacement for defective panels? e.g. clouding


yes this has happened before. i think green sum, pictures were taken, etc. it was a long process


----------



## timaishu

Okay, here are some photos of what I am seeing. Note, its the exact same line no matter if its 72, 96, 120hz. The higher the frequency, the more apparent it becomes. I took this at 120hz just to make it easier for the camera to pick up.



Here are 72hz cru settings.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Okay, here are some photos of what I am seeing. Note, its the exact same line no matter if its 72, 96, 120hz. The higher the frequency, the more apparent it becomes. I took this at 120hz just to make it easier for the camera to pick up.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are 72hz cru settings.


Have you tried another cable?Looks like a messed up monitor but worth a try..


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> I COULD return it as I bought it from ipsledmonitors.com and they claim a no questions asked 30 days return policy. I just feel its too risky, what if I got one back with dead pixels and worse blb. Is it really worth the trade off? I don't know. I will try a new cable though. Will buy one off mono price and see what happens.


If it were me, I would trade it in(assuming the cable isn't the issue). The whole point of these is to OC them. The odds of you getting a dead pixel are good but IMO the dead pixels are so hard to see that I would trade 1 or 2 for 96Hz. The BLB is repairable as well. If you are ok with just 60Hz, there are other nicer options with warranties out there. I would not have bought this monitor if it was $350 and only 60 Hz - I would have stuck with the Monoprice Zero-G and dealt with the eye melting brightness(btw, that monitor is on Massdrop for $350 again for 1 more day).


----------



## junkrok

That looks like the screen tearing I get on mine. However, I think another cable is worth a shot, also if you have another GPU to connect it to that would tell you a lot as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> If it were me, I would trade it in(assuming the cable isn't the issue). The whole point of these is to OC them. The odds of you getting a dead pixel are good but IMO the dead pixels are so hard to see that I would trade 1 or 2 for 96Hz. The BLB is repairable as well. If you are ok with just 60Hz, there are other nicer options with warranties out there. I would not have bought this monitor if it was $350 and only 60 Hz - I would have stuck with the Monoprice Zero-G and dealt with the eye melting brightness(btw, that monitor is on Massdrop for $350 again for 1 more day).


I disagree, people are willing to pay more for no dead pixels and minimal BLB. I think that's the main thing holding people back from buying one. He could actually sell it for more if it were guaranteed, many have said they would pay $100 more just for that kind of service on these. I actually stopped OCing mine, the image retention was becoming annoying and 96Hz didn't provide a significant difference.

edit:

How is the monoprice zero-g any better? It's just a re-badged shimian and has a "5-dead pixel warranty", bad advice.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah, while somewhat subjective and can depend on GPU horsepower too, I fully disagree about the OC being "the point". The high res and real estate is the point. The OC is just butter.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> That looks like the screen tearing I get on mine. However, I think another cable is worth a shot, also if you have another GPU to connect it to that would tell you a lot as well.
> I disagree, people are willing to pay more for no dead pixels and minimal BLB. I think that's the main thing holding people back from buying one. He could actually sell it for more if it were guaranteed, many have said they would pay $100 more just for that kind of service on these. I actually stopped OCing mine, the image retention was becoming annoying and 96Hz didn't provide a significant difference.
> 
> edit:
> 
> How is the monoprice zero-g any better? It's just a re-badged shimian and has a "5-dead pixel warranty", bad advice.


5 dead pixel warranty over a year, meaning they won't cover the exchange past 30 days if dead pixels appear over time. You can return it for exchange no questions asked within the 30 days. I got one on a Massdrop a few months ago. The ones sold there are guaranteed pixel perfect Apparently Monoprice checks them all before shipping and almost nobody had a dead pixel. The couple that did, got exchanges right away. From my understanding, the guy who organized the Massdrop found that Monoprice checks all their monitors for dead pixels even though they don't advertise it.

It's debatable if it's better or not. If you don't want to OC and don't mind glossy, $350 is a good price for an included warranty and 30 day hassle free return. Unless you can think of a better deal? I personally prefer the QNIX but I want to OC so I'm biased


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah, while somewhat subjective and can depend on GPU horsepower too, I fully disagree about the OC being "the point". The high res and real estate is the point. The OC is just butter.


I guess you're right, but when I got this monitor it was $280. Now they range from $320-350. At that price, there are other options. Just sayin...


----------



## jerrolds

OC is kind of the point for these QNIX/XStar monitors - lets be honest, these are not the most sexy looking monitors, and have pretty garbage build quality. If I didnt care about OCing - the new CrossOvers Blacktune or Shimian Lite Edges are much better


----------



## junkrok

The new Achieva and Crossover appear to have QC issues, one of the ebay sellers flat out told me not to buy one. The QNIX is still the lowest price and while the OC is not guaranteed on everyone's setup its more of a nice feature. In other words people would still be buying the QNIX even if it didn't have any potential to OC.

I'm curious how much of the OC capability is the monitor's doing and how much of it depends on the GPU, cable, timings etc. Seems like the majority of us connect it to one machine and assume the monitor is the limiting factor.


----------



## kroken

QC issues?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> The new Achieva and Crossover appear to have QC issues, one of the ebay sellers flat out told me not to buy one. The QNIX is still the lowest price and while the OC is not guaranteed on everyone's setup its more of a nice feature. In other words people would still be buying the QNIX even if it didn't have any potential to OC.
> 
> I'm curious how much of the OC capability is the monitor's doing and how much of it depends on the GPU, cable, timings etc. Seems like the majority of us connect it to one machine and assume the monitor is the limiting factor.


I agree, it might be worthwhile to add that as a field in the table on page 1


----------



## Semus

These monitors are fantastic investments. I would have to say that even with back light bleeding issues and without the ability to OC, it's still a fantastic investment. If you are anywhere near capable of taking things apart, you can fix the back light bleeding. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out how to remove the panel from the plastic casing or remove the metal bezel from the LCD display panel. It's really not hard at all and it fixes 99% of BLB issues.

If you are hesitant about buying one, don't be. However, if you get those solid lines, return it. Get another one. If that one has back light bleeding, fix it. Take the gamble. It only took me an hour to fix mine and I was back up and running.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Fantastic investment indeed and I still don't agree about teh "importance" of the OC. I've been at 60 Hz for most of the time I've had it; personally can't even really tell much diff at higher Hz frankly but I also only have a single 7950 at present (mini-itx for now). I wanted a large higher res screen with great color and IQ and no dead pixels without paying an arm and a leg to a large OEM. And the Monoprice or Microcenter ones have junk panels. Before these PLS hit I was probably just gonna go Shimian even though they were ~$400. So glad I didn't have to "QC issues" or not.

And what "other options" at $350? 1080P Lightboost TN? No thanks.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Fantastic investment indeed and I still don't agree about teh "importance" of the OC. I've been at 60 Hz for most of the time I've had it; personally can't even really tell much diff at higher Hz frankly but I also only have a single 7950 at present (mini-itx for now). I wanted a large higher res screen with great color and IQ and no dead pixels without paying an arm and a leg to a large OEM. And the Monoprice or Microcenter ones have junk panels. Before these PLS hit I was probably just gonna go Shimian even though they were ~$400. So glad I didn't have to "QC issues" or not.
> 
> And what "other options" at $350? 1080P Lightboost TN? No thanks.


Have you really tried OCing?
Even from 60 to 96hz moving the mouse around or grab a window and move it around, the difference is very obvious and much more at 120 hz.
In any case, I agree with you...this is a great deal no matter how you look at it.
I am going to man up and open mine to fix the BLB. I hope I dont kill a pixel doing so lol
Regards


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Of course. Up to 120Hz. Not a whole lot of difference to me even trying games I could push 120+ like CS Source. Not everyone's brains perceive this as well or as much as others; that's not news. I came from a really slow old TN Cinema Display I got from work and I never noticed any ghosting on that ancient POS either. When I upgrade my GPU setup I'll give it a shot again; why not.

Fine I acknowledge that higher Hz is a major selling point for many people and of course accounts for a large part of the huge popularity of these displays but I really think anyone who feels they are simply all about the higher Hz is missing the forest for the trees.


----------



## jerrolds

After you get used to 120hz you really cant go back. Yesterday i fired up Bioshock, and while the FPS was 130fps (inside, on High settings) it felt stuttery/laggy or just plain weird - thought my video card was throttling or something and needed a reboot. Turns out the monitor was at 60hz...

As long as your careful - opening it up isnt that bad, i had to do mine 4 times







(first time was to replace the stand, 2nd time was to bend the metal frame and do tape mod, 3rd time was to bend it better, 4th time was to add paper insert thingies to fine tune the bleed)

Although on the 3rd attempt i thought i ripped one of the LED ribbon things, i think its just tape used to secure it. God i was scared, thought i would turn it on and only half the panel would light up.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Of course. Up to 120Hz. Not a whole lot of difference to me even trying games I could push 120+ like CS Source. Not everyone's brains perceive this as well or as much as others; that's not news. I came from a really slow old TN Cinema Display I got from work and I never noticed any ghosting on that ancient POS either. When I upgrade my GPU setup I'll give it a shot again; why not.
> 
> Fine I acknowledge that higher Hz is a major selling point for many people and of course accounts for a large part of the huge popularity of these displays but I really think anyone who feels they are simply all about the higher Hz is missing the forest for the trees.


Yeah I remember back in the day, my brother will be using his CRT monitor at 60hz and I will go crazy unless I could run it at least at 75hz or the flickering will drive me nuts









True though, like I didnt really buy it for gaming so OCing was not my main concern.


----------



## timaishu

I can barely push modern games maxed out above 60fps anyways.

I dunno you guys, I will guy a high end cable today to see if it does anything, if it fixes, it I will order a mono price cable and return the expensive one.

If I really got desperate. I suppose I could order another one from ipsledmonitors.com and just decide which I would like to keep and return the other one.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Of course. Up to 120Hz. Not a whole lot of difference to me even trying games I could push 120+ like CS Source. Not everyone's brains perceive this as well or as much as others; that's not news. I came from a really slow old TN Cinema Display I got from work and I never noticed any ghosting on that ancient POS either. When I upgrade my GPU setup I'll give it a shot again; why not.
> 
> Fine I acknowledge that higher Hz is a major selling point for many people and of course accounts for a large part of the huge popularity of these displays but I really think anyone who feels they are simply all about the higher Hz is missing the forest for the trees.


The best part is not "smoothness" but lower motion blur if you have higher Hz.

The OC for me was the cherry on top, I'd been watching the Korean monitors for many months but jumped on the XStar as it had the semi-matte screen coating I was after. The OC is nice, but all it gives me is smoother window movement as I cannot push 120fps on my current system.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Cherry on top is a good way to put it.

Though aren't "smoothness" and "low blur" two sides of the same coin?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Cherry on top is a good way to put it.
> 
> Though aren't "smoothness" and "low blur" two sides of the same coin?


The coin bein 120Hz?

They're very different. Play a movie back at 10Hz and that's not smooth. Play it back at 60Hz and it's very smooth.
Play a game where g2g is 1 second and it won't matter if you have 300Hz, it'll be very blurry. 60Hz at 1ms g2g would be much less blurry.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well, the coin being the overall visual "positive effects" from a higher refresh rate, ideal when matching the frames per sec.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well, the coin being the overall visual "positive effects" from a higher refresh rate, ideal when matching the frames per sec.


Or at least keeping a multiple of each other. 120hz looks and feels better at 240FPS using a frame limiter rather than adding yet another filter on the screen(vsync)


----------



## skilly

Just tried the new WHQL 327.23 Nvidia driver. First I went to 60hz, then installed the driver, then used the nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2 and all went well. Running on 120hz now and all seems good.


----------



## Droogie

How bad is the input lag on these? About the same as an IPS? I messed around with a Catleap, and it was definitely noticeable compared to my 120hz TN.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> How bad is the input lag on these? About the same as an IPS? I messed around with a Catleap, and it was definitely noticeable compared to my 120hz TN.


From what I've heard/researched, with no OSD and no scaler, input lag should be minimal









I don't notice a difference between these and any other TN monitor I've used, though I'm far from an expert on the subject


----------



## jerrolds

When both at 120hz, the input lag is identical to the BenQ XL2420T in my experience


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> From what I've heard/researched, with no OSD and no scaler, input lag should be minimal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't notice a difference between these and any other TN monitor I've used, though I'm far from an expert on the subject


I noticed some lag, and the motion blur was pretty terrible. I might have to wait for an IPS with lightboost.


----------



## Kokin

How bad are the speakers on these? I don't care about audio quality as I have a pair of Sennheiser HD555s and a 2.1 system, but sometimes my gf uses my 2.1 system to play PS3 and I prefer to have something playing without my headphones.


----------



## valtopps

has anyone owned there Korean PLS Monitors a year, just want to know how many had problems with them.


----------



## Dodgexander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> How bad are the speakers on these? I don't care about audio quality as I have a pair of Sennheiser HD555s and a 2.1 system, but sometimes my gf uses my 2.1 system to play PS3 and I prefer to have something playing without my headphones.


Here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Just plugged in my phone to the built in speakers for the lulz, I was hoping to be able to come in here and tell you all they're not actually that bad, but THEY ARE THAT BAD! Some of the worst things I've ever heard, I'd rather listen through my phone speaker than through the monitor. Oh well, I couldn't care less, I was just hoping I'd get a pleasant surprise. AVOID THESE SPEAKERS LIKE THE PLAGUE!


Sent from my Crescent using Tapatalk 4


----------



## tx-jose

Ordered one of the X-Star's. is the motion bluur really that bad to where FPS games suck?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> I noticed some lag, and the motion blur was pretty terrible. I might have to wait for an IPS with lightboost.


Input lag was tested to at 6.4ms overall. I wouldn't say it is terrible but it is definitely noticeable compared to a monitor with lightboost. But setting it next to another 120hz panel that both not using lightboost was practically identical. This is why those buying these and overclocking should not expect lightboost level clarity and merely 120hz level clarity. Plus 6.4ms although is rather low compared to many other IPS and PLS screens is not quite as good as many TN gaming panels. I found sitting slightly back from the monitor helped me get used to it after using lightboost on my Asus.

It also might be a while before we get a lightboost IPS panel considering they have not had any panels that i have seen go above 60hz natively yet much less the prospect of lightboost. Also it seems the industry is starting to focus a bit on 4K displays which are only coming out at 30hz due to cable bus limitations. Hopefully we don't get stuck in another rut like the 1080p plague and they get [email protected] and stick with it for years.

I see what you mean though [email protected] + lightboost with no scaler would likely be amazing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose*
> 
> Ordered one of the X-Star's. is the motion bluur really that bad to where FPS games suck?


No not at all. In fact in my opinion if you have never experienced lightboost or a high rated gaming panel you may not even tell over standard panels. I have had lightboost and although i did notice it didn't take me long to live without it. These are great for games and FPS will be fine. If you have had lightboost it is a bit like going from 120hz back to 60hz at first (at least to me). The resolution more than made up for it but i do miss lightboost.

Bottom line FPS definitely don't suck and you still get a big reaction time benefit. There is just a slight motion blur. Many of my games had a motion blur setting and after turning it off it compensated for a lot of the blur. Honestly i wish i still had my 144hz Asus so i could test motion blur again (since in game motion blur was on during initial testing).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> has anyone owned there Korean PLS Monitors a year, just want to know how many had problems with them.


I was one of the first to buy 1 (3 now). I have owned it for just under 6 months (i think guestament) and have not had any issues. You are not likely going to find anyone that has owned one for a year since they have not been out that long. This is kinda apparent if you look at the age age of this thread, the first post was 4/22/13 which was not too long after they came out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> How bad are the speakers on these? I don't care about audio quality as I have a pair of Sennheiser HD555s and a 2.1 system, but sometimes my gf uses my 2.1 system to play PS3 and I prefer to have something playing without my headphones.


I tried mine an then quickly turned them off. It was kinda like listening to those dirt cheap "sound systems" you can buy from walmart (which was an insult to my ears). My advise is to take the nice size savings you got from buying a Qnix over a name brand and buy some real speakers.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Just tried the new WHQL 327.23 Nvidia driver. First I went to 60hz, then installed the driver, then used the nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2 and all went well. Running on 120hz now and all seems good.


Thanks for the heads up on compatibility


----------



## tx-jose

Thanks man. Lol

I have just a standard 60hz 2ms asus 24".....I dont play competitive or anything but I love me my Battlefield 3 and soon 4. When I saw the system req for BF4 I decided to make the jump for high res over what I have now just for that extra something. I haven't even seen 120hz in person so ots no big deal. Cant wait for tomorrow when it arrives!! Its in Menphis, Tn right now


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose*
> 
> Thanks man. Lol
> 
> I have just a standard 60hz 2ms asus 24".....I dont play competitive or anything but I love me my Battlefield 3 and soon 4. When I saw the system req for BF4 I decided to make the jump for high res over what I have now just for that extra something. I haven't even seen 120hz in person so ots no big deal. Cant wait for tomorrow when it arrives!! Its in Menphis, Tn right now


I have a 60hz 2ms Asus 24" for my wife's xbox and i think the Qnix @ 60hz beat it in terms of response due to the lack of a scaler. Her's does have VGA, HDMI, and DVI though so there is quite a bit of scaler(slang). After i got 120hz running it just makes the Asus look like a slide show







. If you haven't seen 120hz then you will not only be fine but you are in for a treat









I would make sure you are able to maintain 120FPS or higher though otherwise you are going to just get a bunch of tearing or vsync buffering.


----------



## Jinru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> I can barely push modern games maxed out above 60fps anyways.
> 
> I dunno you guys, I will guy a high end cable today to see if it does anything, if it fixes, it I will order a mono price cable and return the expensive one.
> 
> If I really got desperate. I suppose I could order another one from ipsledmonitors.com and just decide which I would like to keep and return the other one.


Are you using the DVI cable that came with the monitor? I think I was the first person to post on here about having 0 luck OC'ing, but buying a new cable from monoprice fixed it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/450_50#post_19885043
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/900_50#post_19935019


----------



## jerrolds

As someone who has tried both a QNIX @120hz AND a Benq XL2420T @120hz w/ Lightboost _*side-by-side*_. i can tell you that input lag between the two are identical in real world games (and i used to play CRT Quake 1, 2, 3 and CS Beta 0.7 at a very serious level).

I could no tell any difference whatsoever - my ghetto test was to share a window between the two monitors and move them to see if any lagged behind the other, and they were identical. With my connected Panasonic ST50 using custom mode (lots of video processing) there was a definite, noticable, unplayable lag. Of course i didnt have a splitter so i couldnt do any stop watch tests, but again - no difference.

I used Bioshock Infinite @ 120fps, and Half Life 2 @ 300fps+ vsync off, and no real difference. TFTcentral measured the Benq at 13ms http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/benq_xl2420t.htm#input_lag using SMTT 2.0 method, which i think show results that are slower than traditional method (not taht its "slower" in that the numbers are higher because its an apples-to-oranges comparison), if QNIX was measured in another way at ~7ms, then i can see them being identical if tested similarly.

And motion blur - is VERY playable @120hz...yes Lightboost is better, but not by much. I found myself going back to the QNIX and ditching the lightboost cuz everything else looked better. Ended up returning the BenQ. So personally Lightboost is not worth it. I really really wanted to keep it, but could not justify it if i wasnt really gonna use it. Id rather take the savings and upgrade my video card.


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Hey guys, so I tightened up my timings @ 120hz in CRU and managed to get to the point where I no longer need LCD Reduced in order to avoid artifacts, but I can't seem to bring my Total horizontal and vertical below 2670x1445 without them becoming greyed out. Also, when I try to reduce one and not the other I end up with vertical lines all over my screen.

Should the right setting with my timings be able to get me to 120hz without any burn in? It's minor now and it goes away after about 15 minutes @ 60hz, but it is somewhat annoying.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have a 60hz 2ms Asus 24" for my wife's xbox and i think the Qnix @ 60hz beat it in terms of response due to the lack of a scaler. Her's does have VGA, HDMI, and DVI though so there is quite a bit of scaler(slang). After i got 120hz running it just makes the Asus look like a slide show
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If you haven't seen 120hz then you will not only be fine but you are in for a treat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would make sure you are able to maintain 120FPS or higher though otherwise you are going to just get a bunch of tearing or vsync buffering.


If the refresh rate is 120Hz with Vsync OFF, and I'm getting below 120fps, tearing shouldn't really be an issue should it? I was under the impression that tearing occurs when you're pushing *more* frames than your Hz with Vsync off.

I REALLY noticed tearing with Vsync off at 60Hz because I had higher fps than 60, but with 120Hz I don't really notice it since my fps is below 120


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Hey guys, so I tightened up my timings @ 120hz in CRU and managed to get to the point where I no longer need LCD Reduced in order to avoid artifacts, but I can't seem to bring my Total horizontal and vertical below 2670x1445 without them becoming greyed out. Also, when I try to reduce one and not the other I end up with vertical lines all over my screen.
> 
> Should the right setting with my timings be able to get me to 120hz without any burn in? It's minor now and it goes away after about 15 minutes @ 60hz, but it is somewhat annoying.


What are your timings exactly? Whats the Pixel Clock, 450Mhz?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Dream seller or ta-planet?

Also is it common for people to be able to get to 120Hz but with graphical issues? Seems alot of people are saying the screen gets dimmer or colours diminish.


----------



## JohanSWEC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Dream seller or ta-planet?
> 
> Also is it common for people to be able to get to 120Hz but with graphical issues? Seems alot of people are saying the screen gets dimmer or colours diminish.


Most people are able to achieve it, but tend to clock it down to 96Hz. I can't talk from experience though, as I haven't recieved mine yet.

I used accessorieswhole, was said to be the least likely to cause trouble.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Thanks for the info. Accessorieswhole are another 30 quid where I am unfortunately, so I don't think I'll use them. Import tax is another concern, I asked ta-planet what their policy is on it and they said they mark outgoing monitors as $150, yet to hear from Dreamseller.

Just tried 96Hz, difference isn't too much from 120Hz so I think I could live with it.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Accessorieswhole are another 30 quid where I am unfortunately, so I don't think I'll use them. Import tax is another concern, I asked ta-planet what their policy is on it and they said they mark outgoing monitors as $150, yet to hear from Dreamseller.
> 
> Just tried 96Hz, difference isn't too much from 120Hz so I think I could live with it.


I used dream seller for an X-Star Glossy.. No problems at all, except I did get a that customs bill in the mail from fed-ex for $20. Not really an issue and I will probably try and dispute it with fed-ex.. I thought we had open trade agreement with SK? Other than that I'd recommend them. My monitor has very minimal BLB and is not worth opening IMO, no dead pixels and OC's to 120hz with a cable I got from Bluejeanscable.com while using the "front porch" method.


----------



## paulkon

Alright, so I'm going to open up my Qnix all the way down to the diffuser sheets and glass to try and clean up the clouding. Any tips?


----------



## jerrolds

^ Take pics! Mine kinda gets cloudy at @120hz, i wanna see what the panel looks like without the diffuser sheet off (are they held on by those 2 top gold colored ribbons)?


----------



## tx-jose

Mine is out for delivery!! Cant wait for work to be over!!!

I ordered it on Tuesday...well Wednesday at 2:00am and its already on its way to my house. I used the guy That logan from Tech Syndicate recommended.


----------



## yoyocrazy

I decided to buy a qnix from accessorieswhole and its been great so far. However, some stuck pixels are appearing in the center of the screen (mostly green). I notice if I push on the screen, many go away, and many are created anew. They're not really fully bright stuck pixels, and most of them are only visible on black, but I'm worried the problem will get worse. Maybe some of the layers of the panel are separating? If anyone could provide any insight, I would appreciate it.


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> What are your timings exactly? Whats the Pixel Clock, 450Mhz?


I'm not sure which ones are irrelevant so I'll post the lot of them.
H V
Front Porch 48 1
Sync Width 32 1
Back Porch 30 3
Blanking 110 5
Total 2670 1445

Refresh rate 210Hz
Horizontal 173.400KHz
Pixel Clock 462.98

If I try to reduce the total pixels lower than 2641on H or 1443 on V the numbers in CRU turn red and the OK button get's greyed out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyocrazy*
> 
> I decided to buy a qnix from accessorieswhole and its been great so far. However, some stuck pixels are appearing in the center of the screen (mostly green). I notice if I push on the screen, many go away, and many are created anew. They're not really fully bright stuck pixels, and most of them are only visible on black, but I'm worried the problem will get worse. Maybe some of the layers of the panel are separating? If anyone could provide any insight, I would appreciate it.


How long have you had your Qnix? I had the same thing happen with my Toshiba LED a year ago and I really don't want to go through that again.


----------



## jerrolds

Try mine, it has a Pixel Clock of 459Mhz

48 1
32 2
12 2
92 5
2652 1445

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/6910#post_20798547

So far i havent seen anyone with better timings


----------



## Quwe

Hello people! First time poster here.

I've read through the other QNIX thread and decided to pull the trigger this weekend. I was just wondering which seller should I buy from; Accesorieswhole, excellentcastle or bigclothcraft? Do they all ship fast to Europe? (I live in Finland btw).

Accesorieswhole seems to have quite big stock (like 200 avail.) so I guess (s)he would ship it asap. Not really about the others since they have only like couple of them.


----------



## skilly

459.86mhz has been the lowest I was able to get mine.

Oddly enough 461.45mhz 2652*1450 seems to work better I think. Is that even possible or are my eyes playing tricks on me? I noticed little static (barely noticeable on top right for a millisecond) when I open a metro app with 459 but do not get the static at 461.45mhz.


----------



## yoyocrazy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> How long have you had your Qnix? I had the same thing happen with my Toshiba LED a year ago and I really don't want to go through that again.


Had it for a week.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> 459.86mhz has been the lowest I was able to get mine.
> 
> Oddly enough 461.45mhz 2652*1450 seems to work better I think. Is that even possible or are my eyes playing tricks on me? I noticed little static (barely noticeable on top right for a millisecond) when I open a metro app with 459 but do not get the static at 461.45mhz.


Would you mind posting them? Cuz im using [email protected] clock - at 120hz, i get the occasional green scan line thing...maybe 461.45Mhz is more "stable" for these monitors


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Would you mind posting them? Cuz im using [email protected] clock - at 120hz, i get the occasional green scan line thing...maybe 461.45Mhz is more "stable" for these monitors


Not at all:

Front Porch: 48 4
Sync width: 32 5
Back porch: 12 1
Blanking: 92 10
Total: 2652 1450

@120hz using a bluejeanscable, not the stock cable.


----------



## JohanSWEC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quwe*
> 
> Hello people! First time poster here.
> 
> I've read through the other QNIX thread and decided to pull the trigger this weekend. I was just wondering which seller should I buy from; Accesorieswhole, excellentcastle or bigclothcraft? Do they all ship fast to Europe? (I live in Finland btw).
> 
> Accesorieswhole seems to have quite big stock (like 200 avail.) so I guess (s)he would ship it asap. Not really about the others since they have only like couple of them.


Pretty sure Ebay detects your country, and then only show the sellers which ship there. Unless you've disabled that option. I went with Accesorieswhole, said to be pretty problem free seller, they also send worldwide and had no issues sending to Sweden.


----------



## Quwe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohanSWEC*


Yeah I think I'll go with accesorieswhole








How long did it take for you to arrive? what about the taxes?


----------



## hueys

Wish these monitors would go on sale again. Been wanting to pick up a second one lately.


----------



## JohanSWEC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quwe*
> 
> Yeah I think I'll go with accesorieswhole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long did it take for you to arrive? what about the taxes?


Haven't recieved it yet, so can't say. Regarding taxes, it's the normal "moms" and possible administration fees. So something like 25% + 100 SEK, think they usually write down the taxed price though. Heard they usually write it as $150-200. Pretty sure there isn't any customs fees on electronic's.

Though, this is only from what I've read and might be wrong, I'm not worried though. No idea how it's in Finland though...


----------



## MaIakai

Just got my display, No dead pixels checked with dead pixel buddy. Least I can't find them(they may just be that small)

BLB is pretty bad but im used to it from my old ASUS VS24, No super hot spots or anything

Stand did suck but its usable. Hated that I had to take the bezel off just to remove the stand foot. Mounted on a proper vesa stand.

Back Bezel is probably one of the cheapest, crappiest bezels I've ever seen on a monitor. Haven't tried overclocking or calibration yet, but so far I love it.


----------



## Kuudere

I ordered a pair of x-star DP2710LED's from dream-seller, says he's not active until Monday so we shall see when they actually arrive I guess.

I wanted Glossy but I can deal with matte, I don't have to worry about reflections at least. Hopefully I don't set my 660 Ti on fire trying to play games on it... though I'm more worried about if the stock 660 ti from evga actually has two dual link DVI ports like the specs page says


----------



## hutt132

Here are my timing, no artifacts. I'm using this cable: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-24AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B003L11FIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377385659&sr=8-1&keywords=24awg+dvi-d


Also, does this monitor work with the GeForce 327.23 driver with the NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher?


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> Here are my timing, no artifacts. I'm using this cable: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-24AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B003L11FIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377385659&sr=8-1&keywords=24awg+dvi-d
> 
> 
> Also, does this monitor work with the GeForce 327.23 driver with the NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher?


Yep, works just fine on 327.23.

How do you do for image burn with those timings? Is there any way we can avoid it @ 120hz or is it a given?


----------



## hutt132

I'm guessing image burn is if you leave a still image on your screen for a while, it will still show that image for a little bit if you pull something else up?

With my monitor OCed to 120Hz I haven't seen any image burn even after I had my desktop up for hours.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I'm guessing image burn is if you leave a still image on your screen for a while, it will still show that image for a little bit if you pull something else up?
> 
> With my monitor OCed to 120Hz I haven't seen any image burn even after I had my desktop up for hours.


That's because you lowered the pixel clock close to 450MHz, which is what this board is capable of. Good job and hope the majority of those dialing in a refresh rate and leaving it at that follow through with this.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Since these monitors don't have internal stuff to handle different inputs, do they still turn on and off when the computer goes on and off like a normal monitor or no? Also what happens when you start up a game at a non 1440p resolution? Just concerned about some older games that don't support proper resolutions, will it work if I enable GPU scaling in the control panel?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Since these monitors don't have internal stuff to handle different inputs, do they still turn on and off when the computer goes on and off like a normal monitor or no? Also what happens when you start up a game at a non 1440p resolution? Just concerned about some older games that don't support proper resolutions, will it work if I enable GPU scaling in the control panel?


1. Yes
2. It will load but look VERY scaled
3. Yes and this will have to be on for it to work


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Thanks.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Since these monitors don't have internal stuff to handle different inputs, do they still turn on and off when the computer goes on and off like a normal monitor or no?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 1. Yes


So thats means that I should ignore or cover that blue blinking light on the x-star when i power down my pc? I usually shut the monitor off but fear that after a while the power button will stop functioning.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Also does the cable really make a difference for overclocking? I'd of thought with DVI being digital it wouldn't matter. If it does, what kind of cable should I get?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> So thats means that I should ignore or cover that blue blinking light on the x-star when i power down my pc? I usually shut the monitor off but fear that after a while the power button will stop functioning.


I put a piece of tape over the LED initially and it was fine







. After i de-bezeled the monitor i actually removed the LED completely. In an event of failure i can solder it back on for error detection.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Also does the cable really make a difference for overclocking? I'd of thought with DVI being digital it wouldn't matter. If it does, what kind of cable should I get?


After trying almost 50 different cables i can tell you for certain that not all cables are equal thus making it a viable factor in overclocking.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Are cables of the same brand going to be different in overclocking potential or can you just buy a good one and be done?


----------



## Panchie

Just got my X-star from dream-seller and it's in perfect condition! No BLB or dead pixels, might try to overclock soon


----------



## kroken

Great news! did you order the perfect pixel one?

Damn its hard to decide wich seller to go for..

dream.seller have the x star for 308USD perfect pixels...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Are cables of the same brand going to be different in overclocking potential or can you just buy a good one and be done?


Brand has really nothing to do with it. Most of these all comes from the same place and get a badge smacked onto them. Like i said ALL cables are different and you can't just buy a cool gold fat looking cable and expect it to run the best. I had tried around 50 different cables at my office just to try. I also bought some thick gold platted cables from monoprice. In the end i found an old 28AWG cable in a box that ran the best(by like 4-8hz). This cable has no "gold", it is not 24AWG and it doesn't appear to have any cool names(monster, Nike, Porsche) on it. ALL cables are mass produced and all cables are subject to binning by performance. When mass production and binning takes place they will all be rated to run the standard data rate but any access capabilities are going to be varied. With this being said i would try multiple cables from ANY source you can either buy cheaply(monoprice) or try for free(Try friends cables).

EDIT: Just make sure they are DVI-D dual link


----------



## jerrolds

Ive tried 5-6 cables, from 24AWG cables from monoprice/overlord to included cables with my 120hz lightboost BenQ. The included 28AWG cable from the 60hz CrossOver was the best performing one. And they all displayed picture at the same hz, but the one im using now has the last artifacts.

Imo cables generally wont net you higher overclocks, if your monitor cant do 120hz (black/blinking screen) then no cable in the world will help you - but if at 120hz you get green scan lines - lowering pixel clock and getting a better quality cable will help.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Thanks guys. As to perfect pixel, I know its generally regarded as a cash grab with no real benefits over the non perfect pixel one in terms of dead pixels, but anyone know if they are a higher grade panel or are picked out for less BLB or something?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Imo cables generally wont net you higher overclocks, if your monitor cant do 120hz (black/blinking screen) then no cable in the world will help you - but if at 120hz you get green scan lines - lowering pixel clock and getting a better quality cable will help.


Out of the cables i tried there were several that would allow me to go as high as 150hz but then there was also some that crapped out even before 120hz(black/blinking). I am not sure how much data you were able to get only trying 5-6 cables but my findings point quite the other direction. Timings were a big part of the equation as certain cables would work with certain timings however the cable definitely affected the resulting refresh possibilities. Green scan lines are instability, a certain level of instability will render you a blank screen as the refresh cannot even be established. If a certain cable can grant you more stability than another than it is a bit misleading to say it wont at least potentially allow for a higher overclock.

Sorry to put you down man but these factors do build on each other
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Thanks guys. As to perfect pixel, I know its generally regarded as a cash grab with no real benefits over the non perfect pixel one in terms of dead pixels, but anyone know if they are a higher grade panel or are picked out for less BLB or something?


BLB is not a warrantable issue for any seller. The perfect pixel is a scam however if your are able to confirm the specifications or guarantee behind the perfect pixel claim with the seller and then buy a square trade warranty with it the square trade warranty will be based and accountable for the level of quality claimed by the PP claim.

Bottom line PP = scam BUT can be useful if bought with a square trade warranty.


----------



## HtoTheOdor

Are these two equal in tearms of reaction time and image quality
http://www.ebay.de/itm/CROSSOVER-New-27QW-IPS-LED-Perfect-Pixel-27-LG-AH-IPS-2560X1440-DVI-PC-MONITOR-/130992783845?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7fc741e5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-Perfect-Pixel-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/120926762189?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbf4cd


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HtoTheOdor*
> 
> Are these two equal in tearms of reaction time and image quality
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/CROSSOVER-New-27QW-IPS-LED-Perfect-Pixel-27-LG-AH-IPS-2560X1440-DVI-PC-MONITOR-/130992783845?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7fc741e5
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-Perfect-Pixel-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/120926762189?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbf4cd


Firstly this question would be better placed in the crossover forums. Secondly AH-IPS is going to have better picture quality than S-IPS. The reaction time could be slightly better with the AH-IPS as it is the newest tech but other than the IPS type the monitors are identical so there should not be a visible difference between the two. Since they are the same price i personally would defintely go for the AH-IPS as it is the only panel type that may have a slightly better picture than a PLS panel. Honestly if you are set on a crossover rather than the Qnix(100 bucks less) i would get the best tech possible. Also you could always grab a overlord PCB and overclock. An AH-IPS panel overclocked to 120hz would be at the top of the current monitor food chain.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Out of the cables i tried there were several that would allow me to go as high as 150hz but then there was also some that crapped out even before 120hz(black/blinking). I am not sure how much data you were able to get only trying 5-6 cables but my findings point quite the other direction. Timings were a big part of the equation as certain cables would work with certain timings however the cable definitely affected the resulting refresh possibilities. Green scan lines are instability, a certain level of instability will render you a blank screen as the refresh cannot even be established. If a certain cable can grant you more stability than another than it is a bit misleading to say it wont at least potentially allow for a higher overclock.
> 
> Sorry to put you down man but these factors do build on each other


Thanks, no worries - more info is always good. But i think my point was - unless you have 50 cables lying around, dropping $10-$15 per DLDVI cable in the hopes that getting out of a blink/black screen at higher overclocks (without tweaking timings) is a costly endeavor .

Right now this QNIX is at 119hz (120hz has slight scan lines, and 135hz+ has more corruption, but i got picture which was surprising) - and i used the same cable with my Tempest OC - that i could not get past 117hz (118hz and it was blinking). So the cable has more wiggle room, but the panel did not - at that point i dont think there was nothing i could do to get the Tempest to hit 118hz by simply swapping cables. Before the QNIX i didnt even think the cable this cable could go above 120hz.

You had a panel where 1 particular cable could not hit 120hz? Then swapping out the cable got you 150hz? Or did most of the cables hover around 120hz, until you found one that would do 150hz? Or did most of the cables to 140hz+?


----------



## hueys

Woke my computer from sleep this morning, turned on my monitor and saw brief flashes of red and green. Is there anything I should be concerned about? Repeated it a couple of times and didn't notice anything. Could my graphics card be dying?


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Firstly this question would be better placed in the crossover forums. Secondly AH-IPS is going to have better picture quality than S-IPS. The reaction time could be slightly better with the AH-IPS as it is the newest tech but other than the IPS type the monitors are identical so there should not be a visible difference between the two. Since they are the same price i personally would defintely go for the AH-IPS as it is the only panel type that may have a slightly better picture than a PLS panel. Honestly if you are set on a crossover rather than the Qnix(100 bucks less) i would get the best tech possible. Also you could always grab a overlord PCB and overclock. An AH-IPS panel overclocked to 120hz would be at the top of the current monitor food chain.


I know the OC PCBs needed some not so easy modifications to work with the CrossOver LED-Ps, they werent simply drop ins like Catleaps and Shimians (more or less). Getting an OC PCB to work on these proprietary Crossover desings might take a bit of work, assuming the actual component interfaces are the same. Might want to get some pics of the insides of the new Crossovers to Scribby so he can guesstimate compatibility. It would be cool though.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Can I just use any random PSU 'kettle plug' I have? Monitor spec says it only pulls 50w so I'm guessing it should be fine.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> You had a panel where 1 particular cable could not hit 120hz? Then swapping out the cable got you 150hz? Or did most of the cables hover around 120hz, until you found one that would do 150hz? Or did most of the cables to 140hz+?


Many of the cables actually allowed me to get at least picture at 148hz which seems to be about the limit of my panel. Different cables granted different levels of stability as you also pointed out. However there was a few cables that either excelled in the refresh rate(153hz was my ceiling) and some that did not perform at what appeared to be the panels PAR level(one as bad as 112hz tops, 113hz BLANK). This indicates that yes many cables do seem to have a median level of quality that will only result in different levels of stability rather than any real world effect on refresh OC ceiling(which is why your comment was still relatively sound and why i tried to be a bit nicer than i normally am







) however some of those who get completely stuck at a low refresh or want to try to get just a bit higher can definitely use cables and timings together for their ventures benefit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hueys*
> 
> Woke my computer from sleep this morning, turned on my monitor and saw brief flashes of red and green. Is there anything I should be concerned about? Repeated it a couple of times and didn't notice anything. Could my graphics card be dying?


Re-seat the cable and don't worry about it unless it happens again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Can I just use any random PSU 'kettle plug' I have? Monitor spec says it only pulls 50w so I'm guessing it should be fine.


Yes any PSU like plug should be fine. I have testing a LOT and size/length don't seem to have any real effect on the OC or function.


----------



## paulkon

Just to confirm, when you say "limit of the panel" do you mean the limit of the PCB or the pixel control circuit board (the board that rests on top-rear of the panel) or the actual LEDs in the panel themselves?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Just to confirm, when you say "limit of the panel" do you mean the limit of the PCB or the pixel control circuit board (the board that rests on top-rear of the panel) or the actual LEDs in the panel themselves?


I was not referring to any internal component specifically but the overall tested refresh that the panel seemed to be capable of. It was a generic statement measured by thorough testing(i am not always speaking technically specific).


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Many of the cables actually allowed me to get at least picture at 148hz which seems to be about the limit of my panel. Different cables granted different levels of stability as you also pointed out. However there was a few cables that either excelled in the refresh rate(153hz was my ceiling) and some that did not perform at what appeared to be the panels PAR level(one as bad as 112hz tops, 113hz BLANK). This indicates that yes many cables do seem to have a median level of quality that will only result in different levels of stability rather than any real world effect on refresh OC ceiling(which is why your comment was still relatively sound and why i tried to be a bit nicer than i normally am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) however some of those who get completely stuck at a low refresh or want to try to get just a bit higher can definitely use cables and timings together for their ventures benefit.


Ah cool - Thanks for this.


----------



## HtoTheOdor

Which monitor with an AH-IPS panel should i buy then? The priorities are reaction time and picture quality. My budget is 450$.
I also want to know, if i could use this monitor stand, the space between the screws is 100mm.

I am sorry for my english and I appreciate your help.


----------



## MaIakai

well damn, my X-Star has no problem OCing to 120hz with a monoprice 24awg cable.
Managed to hit 133hz with no noticeable graphics defects. Beyond that the test fails. Haven't tried gaming yet.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HtoTheOdor*
> 
> Which monitor with an AH-IPS panel should i buy then? The priorities are reaction time and picture quality. My budget is 450$.
> I also want to know, if i could use this monitor stand, the space between the screws is 100mm.
> 
> I am sorry for my english and I appreciate your help.


The AH-IPS was he second link i believe. If you scroll WAY down in that very bloated Ebay posting it tells you the panel type in the specifications list. That VESA stand will match up with the holes that it has and may work but it is only rated for a 24" panel. There is a very good single monitor VESA stand on monoprice that should ship to your area(assuming Europe as your post showed euros). Also here is the same stand on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105970-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1379785985&sr=1-11&keywords=monitor+vesa+stand


----------



## HtoTheOdor

So they are no diffecrnces between the Onix, Xstar and Crosover one?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HtoTheOdor*
> 
> So they are no diffecrnces between the Onix, Xstar and Crosover one?


You only posted 2 monitor links both were crossovers. The Qnix and Xstar are exactly the same but the crossover is different.

Qnix/xstar = PLS
crossover = IPS whether it be S-IPS or AH-IPS


----------



## HtoTheOdor

I am sorry I ask so much. What is beter PLS or IPS?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HtoTheOdor*
> 
> I am sorry I ask so much. What is beter PLS or IPS?


PLS is generally considered to be better than IPS aminly due to black levels and contrast capabilities. However AH-IPS specifically tends to be equal or better than PLS. PLS tends to be a bit warm and better at a warmer color scale. AH-IPS is the exact opposite in that it is a bit better at cool colors and tends to have a bit better gamma levels(in my opinion). I have tested both and prefer PLS for games but i still think AH-IPS was a tad superior. My advise is to go to the store and take a look at both if you can and decide yourself.


----------



## HtoTheOdor

Whats with reaction time?


----------



## kroken

Is this better than the qnix if im not going to overclock? shimian qh2700


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HtoTheOdor*
> 
> Whats with reaction time?


visibly identical that part of the tech really hasn't gone anywhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> Is this better than the qnix if im not going to overclock? shimian qh2700


This is a question of IPS vs PLS which i already spoke on. I would taking a look at thread and forums that specifically regard the IPS vs PLS. This is going to be mainly dependent on preference especially if you don't plan on OCing.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HtoTheOdor*
> 
> Whats with reaction time?


Korean IPS is normally 6ms for response time, while PLS is 8ms. Both seem to be equal in input lag (about 8-10ms iirc). I've had both IPS/PLS 120hz panels - they are identical in terms of amount of blur/input lag when tested side by side. IPS dont darken when overclocked while its not uncommon for PLS to, so the contrast levels kind of even out since while the black levels are darker, so is everything else. But there is the option to combat this with color profiles.

Right now i like the PLS by a hair more because the darks are better, and there are a lot of games that have dark backgrounds.


----------



## shaolin95

Guys when using the ICS profiles from here, do you guys have the Nvidia control panel set to Other Applications Control color settings or Use Nvidia settings?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Guys when using the ICS profiles from here, do you guys have the Nvidia control panel set to Other Applications Control color settings or Use Nvidia settings?


Yes you have to otherwise the driver or NVCP will be running the calibration settings for the screen which is default unless you have modified them.


----------



## kroken

How common is really bad bleeding on these?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> How common is really bad bleeding on these?


About the same as Asus Monitors or many other name brands that are not known for having no backlight bleed. If you search over the forum it is pretty clear that it does happen but more often than not it is minimal or no more than store bought panels. I think there was a post were a member went through all the backlight bleed posts per member and put together a little statistics behind this. The post was mainly common terms though so it would be hard to find. Overall i think there was like a 50% chance to get none or very little. Another 25-35% of people fixed theirs with the BLB fix which left a margin of people who just complained and never got back to post or never mentioned it.


----------



## mudzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> How common is really bad bleeding on these?


It´s really common to have some sort of backlight bleeding but it isnt always really bad, and the really bad ones are fixable. Now I know some people are "fanboys" to these monitors and will say just as much as any other brand but I have seen blb on 1/50 monitors by regular brands. And there is always minimal blb on these monitors. The one monitor is sadly the one im using right now


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> It´s really common to have some sort of backlight bleeding but it isnt always really bad, and the really bad ones are fixable. Now I know some people are "fanboys" to these monitors and will say just as much as any other brand but I have seen blb on 1/50 monitors by regular brands. And there is always minimal blb on these monitors. The one monitor is sadly the one im using right now


In my field i have probably used over 1000 monitors. In that amount i have used several brands. Some like Asus generally had backlight bleed like these almost the same amount of time. Dell although was less still had many that did(taken from the 300 monitors we currently have sitting in our office). Others like samsung and apple seemed to have much less if any at all. These monitors mainly have backlight bleed due to the POS bezel they through them in. This is not necessarily backlight bleed and more like brightness from pressure. If you discount all the monitors that have been fixed by adjusting or removing the bezel YES it is about the same as many name brand monitors.

Overall i do believe my experience does qualify me as a worthy opinion(roughly 20 times yours at least). The "fanboy" comment is inappropriate as name calling is against the terms of use here at OCN. If you think it is more then please go over all the posts in this thread regarding backlight bleed and tally them up. Then discount all the ones that were resolved by adjusting the bezel OR were not attempted to be fixed. Next i will walk around my office and tally up all 300+ Dell monitors we have backlight bleed on and we can compare. I think you might be surprised by the findings.

Otherwise please keep your posts helpful, mis-information free and no name calling


----------



## jerrolds

I've owned 3 korean monitors (crossover/tempest/qnix) and they all had some BLB, qnix was by far the worst. Tempest had very very little (thanks to Scribby hand checking), while the Crossover had slightly more. I've gone thru 3 Asus TN panels, and 3 Asus IPS panels, none of those had BLB.

If i had to put a number with these QNIX panels - id say 1/5 chance of getting BLB so bad that youll have to open it up, from that 50/50 shot of getting a good panel, or one with BLB that most can live with.

Crossover album:


http://imgur.com/p7pc2

 (with blb pics vs Asus TN)
Tempest OC vs Crossover:


http://imgur.com/6ajbP

Qnix (pre-fix): http://i.imgur.com/8UIzNek.jpg, and after fixing frame + paper inserts (http://i.imgur.com/CZ7Z8DZ.jpg)

Unfortunately i didnt take pics of the week i played with 3xAsus 23" IPS/TN panels with Eyefinity - but they were pixel perfect with no blb that i remember.

EDIT: The Benq XL2420T was also PP with no BLB.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I've owned 3 korean monitors (catleap/tempest/qnix) and they all had some BLB, qnix was by far the worst. Tempest had very very little (thanks to Scribby hand checking), while the Crossover had slightly more. I've gone thru 3 Asus TN panels, and 3 Asus IPS panels, none of those had BLB.
> 
> If i had to put a number with these QNIX panels - id say 1/5 chance of getting BLB so bad that youll have to open it up, from that 50/50 shot of getting a good panel, or one with BLB that most can live with.
> 
> Crossover album:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/p7pc2
> 
> (with blb pics vs Asus TN)
> Tempest OC vs Crossover:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/6ajbP
> 
> Qnix (pre-fix): http://i.imgur.com/8UIzNek.jpg, and after fixing frame + paper inserts (http://i.imgur.com/CZ7Z8DZ.jpg)
> 
> Unfortunately i didnt take pics of the week i played with 3xAsus 23" IPS/TN panels with Eyefinity - but they were pixel perfect with no blb that i remember.


This is true but it does not discount what i said and actually supports it to an extent. Yes you are going to get backlight bleed but no it is not generally the panel. I have 6 of these korean panels 5 of which i had backlight bleed. After opening up all 5 and adjusting the casing 0 have backlight bleed now. What this means is NONE of my panels have backlight bleed, they simply had a crap casing that put pressure on the panel. Again i am not talking against your experience i am just saying if you are going to buy one of these panels you should be expecting to likely have to open the case up and straighten things up a bit. Which is also mentioned in the OP if i remember correctly. If the panels had backlight bleed outside of the casing that would be a different story.

Bottom line is your making an argument for a different part of the monitor the "case" which is very well known to be a POS.


----------



## jerrolds

Ya from my limited experience - not 20x like you but maybe 2 or 3x







and the BLB was for sure from the total garbage metal framing caused by assembly. Id take BLB over dead/stuck/bright pixels since every case ive read up on have been fixable. Cloudy picture is a bit tougher to fix (actually cleaning the diffuser panel thing)

QNIX/XSTAR has a signicantly higher chance of BLB than the other korean monitors i would think, CrossOver/Catleap/Shimian/Tempests/etc arent nearly this bad - but then again, many of those dont overclock outside of the Tempest which is also quite a bit more money.

Overall QNIX is a great buy for sure, if you dont mind the real possibility of opening it up.


----------



## Spartan F8

Agreed. Maybe in future models(that i very much hope are still overclockable) will have a better case that doesn't cause so much pressure BLB. Maybe they can borrow some of the apparently good casing that the other korean panels are now using.

BTW the crossover blade edition has the exact same casing and has the same BLB rates. I have owned 2 blade models and on both i pulled the casing and BAM no BLB. Both are sold now......Man i need to start talking more pictures


----------



## kreusader

Hi I'm new here but have been a long time lurker. I just recently ordered the X-Star 27 Matte version from dreamseller on ebay. Just received the package yesterday morning but been having problems with a red vertical line on the right side of the screen with a white horizontal line going across it on the same side of the monitor. Has anyone else have this problem? The problem is there within the bios also so I don't think its my gpu (its a msi 7950 no overclock if that helps).

So far I just placed an order for another dvi dual link cable to see if it helps. Also just to add cable does not screw into the monitor. Hope I don't have to return it so far love it and haven't attempt to overclock it or mess around with it much.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matt-X-Star-DP2710-LED-Korea-27-Samsung-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Monitor-/231011755432?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item35c95fa5a8
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matt-Panel-X-Star-DP2710-LED-27-2560x1440-QHD-Samsung-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/221212300675?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item338147d583

Worth the extra for a years coverage? Also just noticed listing says yellow tinting is normal, but dreamseller doesn't, I'm thinking of maybe buying from dreamseller as they might take a return for a yellow tint.


----------



## RexKobra

Hello,

I placed an order yesterday for a QNIX 2710. I have a question concerning 1080P on this monitor.

*If need be, can this display be used in 1080P without any issues? I have heard some state that downgrading the resolution on this monitor to 1080P is fine, and will look as good or better than a 27" that runs 1080P as its native resolution.(which makes no sense to me)*

Can anyone here confirm or deny this? Anyone here run 1080P in games on the 1440P monitors?

Thank you for your time.


----------



## Panchie

Got mine when it was 269


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RexKobra*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I placed an order yesterday for a QNIX 2710. I have a question concerning 1080P on this monitor.
> 
> *If need be, can this display be used in 1080P without any issues? I have heard some state that downgrading the resolution on this monitor to 1080P is fine, and will look as good or better than a 27" that runs 1080P as its native resolution.(which makes no sense to me)*
> 
> Can anyone here confirm or deny this? Anyone here run 1080P in games on the 1440P monitors?
> 
> Thank you for your time.


Just switched mine to 1080p and loaded shadowrun. I also tried [email protected] and loaded shadowrun. Both worked great









EDIT: Just for the heck of it i tried [email protected] the screen turned back on but it was a hell of a light show. Kinda like a vertical kaleidoscope. I don't know if i would recommend trying it but it was neat to look at. It reverted back and i got picture after the standard timeout. All is well and i now know something about the panel i didn't before.


----------



## Quwe

How does Green-sum handle DOA cases and does (s)he cover the shipping back? Also I couldn't find "worldwider adapter included" in the description so will I get everything I need for it to work?
I live in Finland


----------



## kroken

Thanks for answering about the bleeding. im worried about it because i fly FSX at nighttimes and would like to have a dark and clean pic, 2-3 bad pixels is nothing compared to BAD bleeding.. So are my chances better if i choose like shimian or crossover? ive read these threads over and over but cant really decide, maby i should buy all of em and see lol..


----------



## Cookybiscuit

If I can't get to 120Hz is it more likely the cable or the monitor?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> Thanks for answering about the bleeding. im worried about it because i fly FSX at nighttimes and would like to have a dark and clean pic, 2-3 bad pixels is nothing compared to BAD bleeding.. So are my chances better if i choose like shimian or crossover? ive read these threads over and over but cant really decide, maby i should buy all of em and see lol..


I am not sure you have understood. There is a pressure bleed that is very common on these panels and any other panel that uses this casing. If you adjust the casing the chance of backlight bleed on the actual panel is low and is comparable to any other screen. Yes if you buy this panel you will have to likely open it up and adjust the clips(AKA backlight bleed fix). Pressure light bleed is different than actual panel backlight bleed(which is usually kinda yellowish in my experiences where bleed from pressure is white) the panel very rarely has backlight bleed. Yes if you buy a different model korean monitor that doesn't use this case you may have a better chance of not having to open the monitor up and fix it.

If you don't mind opening up the monitor bezel and making some corrections then this is going to be your best bang for your buck. If you want to spend around an extra 100$ to get what i would consider a lesser panel just so it will have a different bezel and have less of a chance you will have to open it up then go for it. People pay for convenience and that is what we are talking about here. I just to make it clear that the Qnix and Xstar do not have a high rate of backlight bleed over really any other panel, they have a garbage bezel that DOES have a high rate of needing to be adjusted. I personally don't count the bezel as a deciding factor since i don't mind either de-bezeling or taking just 20 minutes to adjust it and with the video tutorials we have in the OP there is no reason anyone can't do this. If you don't want to have to deal with it then i recommend finding the best deal you can on another korean model that has a different case.

bottom line

panel /= case
not buying a panel because of a 20 minute case adjustment just seems silly to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> If I can't get to 120Hz is it more likely the cable or the monitor?


First i would say not enough information. Are you getting no picture at all at 120hz? Artifacts/scanlines at 120hz? Is there one solid line that is a bit there no matter the OC?

The panel, cable, timings, GFx card/ports and drivers all work together. Having a fail point can give you certain side effects that will tell you and us what it may be. Without more info no-one is going to be able to honestly answer that question.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Sorry I don't have the monitor yet, just looking for info before I get one. I'm just concerned because I made a custom resolution of 2560x1440p 96Hz (which alot of people seem to go for), and no game seems to accept it, it just doesn't appear, but if I go back and make 60Hz or 120Hz with it, 1440p appears.


----------



## skilly

uncheck extension block? it is the first selection in CRU?

Just wait for the monitor..


----------



## kroken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am not sure you have understood. There is a pressure bleed that is very common on these panels and any other panel that uses this casing. If you adjust the casing the chance of backlight bleed on the actual panel is low and is comparable to any other screen. Yes if you buy this panel you will have to likely open it up and adjust the clips(AKA backlight bleed fix). Pressure light bleed is different than actual panel backlight bleed(which is usually kinda yellowish in my experiences where bleed from pressure is white) the panel very rarely has backlight bleed. Yes if you buy a different model korean monitor that doesn't use this case you may have a better chance of not having to open the monitor up and fix it.
> 
> If you don't mind opening up the monitor bezel and making some corrections then this is going to be your best bang for your buck. If you want to spend around an extra 100$ to get what i would consider a lesser panel just so it will have a different bezel and have less of a chance you will have to open it up then go for it. People pay for convenience and that is what we are talking about here. I just to make it clear that the Qnix and Xstar do not have a high rate of backlight bleed over really any other panel, they have a garbage bezel that DOES have a high rate of needing to be adjusted. I personally don't count the bezel as a deciding factor since i don't mind either de-bezeling or taking just 20 minutes to adjust it and with the video tutorials we have in the OP there is no reason anyone can't do this. If you don't want to have to deal with it then i recommend finding the best deal you can on another korean model that has a different case.
> 
> bottom line
> 
> panel /= case
> not buying a panel because of a 20 minute case adjustment just seems silly to me.
> First i would say not enough information. Are you getting no picture at all at 120hz? Artifacts/scanlines at 120hz? Is there one solid line that is a bit there no matter the OC?
> 
> The panel, cable, timings, GFx card/ports and drivers all work together. Having a fail point can give you certain side effects that will tell you and us what it may be. Without more info no-one is going to be able to honestly answer that question.


Thanks for clarifying! i have no problem at all opening it up and fix it. now ive just ordred the x-star and hope it will arrive in great condition without the yellowish bleed!


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Does the image retention @ 120hz pose any real significant risk over time? It goes away in about 5-10 minutes of being @ 60hz, but will it reduce image quality over time?
I got my pixel clock down to 460 without artifacts but it seems to retain the image worse than when I was running it at 461 or higher.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Does the image retention @ 120hz pose any real significant risk over time? It goes away in about 5-10 minutes of being @ 60hz, but will it reduce image quality over time?
> I got my pixel clock down to 460 without artifacts but it seems to retain the image worse than when I was running it at 461 or higher.


I would hope that no one can answer this question at least from experience. I don't think anyone has willingly left there monitor on without a screensaver or a screen timeout. So i think it is pretty safe to say no-one knows for sure without a theoretical standpoint. Looking at the way the technology works it is possible that if you let your monitor repeatedly be exposed to long term(hours) image retention than yes it could reduce color accuracy over time especially in the parts of the screen that the image retention is most frequent. I would highly recommend not doing so as it would be purposefully destroying your monitor.

If you optimized the timings and are still getting image retention it might be a good idea to stick with 96hz. OR take measures to make sure the image retention is not happening or is at least very short term all the time. This can be done by a screen saver, running at 96hz/60hz on the desktop, making sure you exit(or minimize) your game when leaving the computer or just setting a hard screen timeout. There are also screen savers that are designed for reversing image retention(look up plasma TV retention screen savers).

Bottom line is either turn the refresh down or be very responsible when leaving the computer running. Also in times of surfing when the top border is stationary drop to 60hz/96hz. I don't have image retention at 120hz anymore but at 140hz(which is the highest i can go without too much uniformity issues) still gives me image retention so i don't use that refresh when surfing but i might use it games(never leaving it unattended over 30 minutes straight).

Hope this helps


----------



## timaishu

Okay, so I bought a new dvi cable and there is no change, that vertical line still appears. It looks to me its a fault with the panel.

Is it really worth going through the hassle of returning this only to risk having dead pixels/more blb for another gamble of possibly being able to overclock past 60hz?


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Okay, so I bought a new dvi cable and there is no change, that vertical line still appears. It looks to me its a fault with the panel.
> 
> Is it really worth going through the hassle of returning this only to risk having dead pixels/more blb for another gamble of possibly being able to overclock past 60hz?


If you cant OC past 60hz with this panel than I say yes try for another. But is it returnable just cause you cant OC past 60hz? I thought these are not guaranteed to OC over 60hz and that's the risk you take.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Okay, so I bought a new dvi cable and there is no change, that vertical line still appears. It looks to me its a fault with the panel.
> 
> Is it really worth going through the hassle of returning this only to risk having dead pixels/more blb for another gamble of possibly being able to overclock past 60hz?


I would suspect there's a panel fault causing that line to have a problem, and the whole line of pixels may go funny later on even at 60Hz, so I'd try and get a replacement.

Also: try OCing to 96Hz and increasing your front porch, sync width, and/or back porch. That may help.


----------



## junkrok

Have you even tried another PC/GPU? I really don't know why you would return one of these panels when it has no noticeable defects (missing the forest for the trees). But yeah go get one with horrible BLB that may or may not OC on your same setup...


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Have you even tried another PC/GPU? I really don't know why you would return one of these panels when it has no noticeable defects (missing the forest for the trees). But yeah go get one with horrible BLB that may or may not OC on your same setup...


Despite your sarcasm, you pretty much hit my point. I don't know if the risk is worth it. I am totally satisfied with my monitor in terms of blb and dead pixels, it just cannot overclock. And no, I don't have another computer to test it on, but frankly, I think that is not a concern considering my old monitor had no issues with the same setup.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Despite your sarcasm, you pretty much hit my point. I don't know if the risk is worth it. I am totally satisfied with my monitor in terms of blb and dead pixels, it just cannot overclock. And no, I don't have another computer to test it on, but frankly, I think that is not a concern considering my old monitor had no issues with the same setup.


My main point was, unless you've overclocked another QNIX on your current setup or tried to OC on another PC and experienced the same problem with the same monitor I don't think you say its the monitor with certainty. But yeah, even if you were able to determine that, I probably wouldn't risk it considering some of the bad ones I've seen on here.


----------



## paulkon

Has anyone ordered from ipsledmonitors.com and had any problems with returns? Do they cover the shipping cost within the return period?


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Has anyone ordered from ipsledmonitors.com and had any problems with returns? Do they cover the shipping cost within the return period?


Shop Amazon a-z protection plan.


----------



## JSK23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Has anyone ordered from ipsledmonitors.com and had any problems with returns? Do they cover the shipping cost within the return period?


I ordered mine from them Friday after a sustained email conversation over their warranty. They insist it is 100% satisfaction guaranteed, any pixels or amount of BLB you aren't happy with. They cover the return shipping as well. It was the only way I could justify the higher cost.


----------



## Ghost12

Had an email this morning from the seller now finally agreeing that my screen is faulty. The qnix engineer accepts faulty pcb and they are wanting to post a replacement and for me to fit it myself. I have not been inside my screen, anyone know if this is plug and play replacement or would require soldering?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Had an email this morning from the seller now finally agreeing that my screen is faulty. The qnix engineer accepts faulty pcb and they are wanting to post a replacement and for me to fit it myself. I have not been inside my screen, anyone know if this is plug and play replacement or would require soldering?


Pretty sure the youtube videos listed in the OP showed a good shot of the PCB. I doubt it's soldered. I didn't specifically look when I opened mine, but it looked like it was designed to be put together with just a screwdriver. Keeps the price down.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Pretty sure the youtube videos listed in the OP showed a good shot of the PCB. I doubt it's soldered. I didn't specifically look when I opened mine, but it looked like it was designed to be put together with just a screwdriver. Keeps the price down.


Thanks. Yes watched some this morning, appears to be a straight swap. Could also complete the blb tape mod at the same time. I have agreed to have it posted.


----------



## Woned

I finally decided to buy a QNIX from accessorieswhole, it should arrive by the end of this week.

I was wondering, what DVI cable do you guys recommend that I can buy online? Hopefully something available from newegg / NCIX.


----------



## dorcopio

Hi all, I have a lot of questions about monitors:

1) I want the highest pixel density possible, reading the first page it seems that the best option is 27" 1440p (1600p are only 30" and 2160p cost 3500$), right?
2) Is there any way to get 120Hz on Linux? I didn't understood how this 120Hz thing works...
3) What's the difference between QX2700 and QX2710 II?
4) Can I get the QX2700 @120Hz?
5) Can I get 120Hz over HDMI? I don't like the double DVI thing and seeing that SHARP's IGZO monitor use 2xHDMI to achieve [email protected] I thought it could be possible to achieve [email protected] in the same way.
6) If I've understood correctly HDMI must be version 2.0 to stream [email protected]; who needs to be HDMI 2.0 capable: the cable, the GPU or the monitor?


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Despite your sarcasm, you pretty much hit my point. I don't know if the risk is worth it. I am totally satisfied with my monitor in terms of blb and dead pixels, it just cannot overclock. And no, I don't have another computer to test it on, but frankly, I think that is not a concern considering my old monitor had no issues with the same setup.


Personally i would go for it again...BLB is easy enough to fix, 1 or 2 dead pixels around the edges arent noticable at this pixel density - the only problem is if you have a cluster near the middle - which is aun deniable cause for return.

I would try at least one more time


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Hi all, I have a lot of questions about monitors:
> 
> 1) I want the highest pixel density possible, reading the first page it seems that the best option is 27" 1440p (1600p are only 30" and 2160p cost 3500$), right?
> 2) Is there any way to get 120Hz on Linux? I didn't understood how this 120Hz thing works...
> 3) What's the difference between QX2700 and QX2710 II?
> 4) Can I get the QX2700 @120Hz?
> 5) Can I get 120Hz over HDMI? I don't like the double DVI thing and seeing that SHARP's IGZO monitor use 2xHDMI to achieve [email protected] I thought it could be possible to achieve [email protected] in the same way.
> 6) If I've understood correctly HDMI must be version 2.0 to stream [email protected]; who needs to be HDMI 2.0 capable: the cable, the GPU or the monitor?


1) 1600p is a different aspect ratio(16:10 vs 16:9). It's virtually the same ppi and more expensive
2) Assuming your video card has drivers for Linux, it's possible but I don't know for sure.
3) From what I understand the 2700 has more inputs and a scalar. The 2710 only has DVI-D and no scalar.
4) From the threads I was reading a few months ago, many were getting 90ish Hz. There might be more up to date info now - check those threads.
5) There is no HDMI port on these monitors. Personally, I avoid HDMI like the plague. The cables are more expensive(good ones at least) and all you gain is sound. They are also more limited than DVI-D and Displayport in resolution unless you have v1.4, in which case it's hard to tell just by looking at the connection or wire.
6) all need to be compatible. I don't know any card that has HDMI 2.0 yet. I thought it was coming out next year. Chances are if you have a wire that's 1.4 compatible, it will be 2.0 compatible. 2.0 is intended for 4k resolutions.


----------



## Xentar712

I know someone else removed their glass from the tempered glass models. Anybody have an opinion on this? I'm getting my replacement sent tomorrow but they are out of glossy models. My choices are get a tempered glass model and remove the pane or just go with matte. I think I might go with matte since removing the pane might leave a gap in the casing. Anyone have an opinion on this?

Does anyone maybe own both a matte and glossy and can comment on how different they are? I know many say the matte coating is super light, which is why I'm considering it. Is the matte coating on a hard surface or directly on the LCD?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

1600P displays are also wide gamut. Designed for photo and design work not "desktop use" and gaming. Colors are different (because there are essentially more of them).

The matte is a light semi-gloss coating on the screen/panel itself to answer the guy above me.


----------



## Xentar712

Maybe the current models are, but resolution and color gamut are independent of each other. If Qnix decided to make a 2560x1600 monitor, it doesn't necessarily have to have a wide color gamut.


----------



## timaishu

Man, I still cannot decide. I mean, I never get higher than 70fps anyways, will I really actually see a noticeable difference at 96/120hz if my fps don't even reach those numbers?


----------



## jerrolds

Yes - 60fps on a 120hz display looks better than 60hz for when the times you do go over 60fps you dont get screen tear. To avoid screen tear you could do vsync, which introduces input lag. Your 7950 will push almost every game to 80fps+ with some tewaking on newer gpu intensive games. I'm not sure if your CPU is a limiting factor though.

Your particular QNIX is defective past 60hz which is really too bad - you bought it using ipsledmonitors right? i would take advantage of their no questions asked return policy and go for another one.


----------



## junkrok

i don't see why this is such a big deal. so far you only tried a different cable, which many have indicated has little or no effect on OC. if you were that concerned wouldn't you try another GPU/drivers, even another PC? I actually stopped OCing mine because the gamma and "burn in" we're annoying. I think these monitors are awesome 1440/27" PLS monitors, but are not good 120Hz monitors as many of us have some issue. And yes, I realize this is overclock.net

edit: also, if I had a verified pixel perfect monitor, I'd keep it or sell it, since there is such a high demand for it


----------



## L33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Try searching "clouding" in this thread and the crossover thread. Also you can optimize your timings to not have so much gamma shift and color uniformity. This is NOT burn-in(which does *NOT* happen with these monitors at all. These monitor have color retention at overclocked speeds which is temporary)


Can some one elaborate on this color retention? I see it a the image being burned in and it last for a few hours or until the next image is "burned."

He is a video I just shot and it has the same effect on 60hz and 100hz


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Maybe the current models are, but resolution and color gamut are independent of each other. If Qnix decided to make a 2560x1600 monitor, it doesn't necessarily have to have a wide color gamut.


True; just commenting on what exists *today*.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Your particular QNIX is defective past 60hz which is really too bad - you bought it using ipsledmonitors right? i would take advantage of their no questions asked return policy and go for another one.


Though beforehand make sure stock is back to levels where they can offer a replacement and not just a refund.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33k*
> 
> Can some one elaborate on this color retention? I see it a the image being burned in and it last for a few hours or until the next image is "burned."
> 
> He is a video I just shot and it has the same effect on 60hz and 100hz


I see that "color burn in" even at 96hz, but I didn't think these monitors had that problem at 60Hz. which why i don't OC my QNIX anymore.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Do all of these have burn in at higher refresh?


----------



## jerrolds

Mine doesnt - i've looked for it, but nothing so far. I havent left a screen with white text/dark backgroundf or more than say 30mins or so though. Normal use i havent seen any Image Retention. I've tested using solid color backgrounds and the only anomalies is slight cloudiness in some areas of the screen @120hz - totally not noticeable outside of solid color (green + white) slides

I dont see any trace of IR from where the windows task bar/time is either - so i think my panel is luckily immune.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Do all of these have burn in at higher refresh?


i'm going to say, yes, they all seem to exhibit some burn in. i think it's more noticeable with high contrast patterns which jerrolds, post above, doesn't mention testing. if you were working in excel for a day then went to another color you'd probably notice it.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I never noticed any either though only ran 120Hz for a matter of hours and 96 for a month or so as yet.


----------



## air tree

I'm thinking buying this http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni4.htm Are they anygood? Like returns or RMA's?


----------



## paulkon

Yeah, I'm still not sure about ipsledmonitor's return policy since a few months ago they said that they covered the cost of return shipping but now their site says they don't cover return shipping or refund initial shipping cost. Starting to seem sketch. $50 just for shipping back and forth to return.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I never noticed any either though only ran 120Hz for a matter of hours and 96 for a month or so as yet.


i suppose I can't say definitively, but it "burn in" does seem to be a common symptom of OCing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> $50 just for shipping back and forth to return.


... how much would it cost to return you monitor on ebay? i don't think anyone even has other than replacements for DOA monitors.


----------



## valtopps

I just bought a x-star on ebay for $299.00 shipped. im going to buy a squaretrade warranty for $42 for 3 years. total $341.00
I just hope its going to work with my sig system.

did you notice that ipsledmonitor is got an open box one for $260.00


----------



## junkrok

squar trade is good for warranty claims (I have a square trade warranty), but i don't think you can send a monitor to them for any reason and have it refunded.


----------



## coli

What is up with the $20.45 duties from fedex? seller was dreamseller

Okay, looks like he used the wrong HS code, if he had used 85282170 it would be duty free.

http://export.gov/fta/ftatarifftool/TariffDetail.aspx?ID=363387&PortType=Import&Partner=1


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33k*
> 
> Can some one elaborate on this color retention? I see it a the image being burned in and it last for a few hours or until the next image is "burned."
> 
> He is a video I just shot and it has the same effect on 60hz and 100hz


If you are getting *color retention* at even 60hz than i would go for an RMA. These monitors can have color retention at OC speeds if you do not optimize your timings or you could have a low performing panel(this is always a possibility). Please do note that this is not "burn in" but color retention as it is always temporary. However you should not be having this happen at 60hz as it is the guaranteed refresh of these panels. This would be considered a form of defection and warrant able. I also recommend NEVER leaving a picture on the screen for hours and use a screen time out or screen saver. Leaving a picture on the screen is bad for your screen even if it was not causing retention it would not be good for it.

These panels especially at overclocked speeds act a bit like plasma when it comes to having retention, i recommend people who purchase these look at the side effects and responsibilities that plasma screen owners deal with.


----------



## JSK23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Yeah, I'm still not sure about ipsledmonitor's return policy since a few months ago they said that they covered the cost of return shipping but now their site says they don't cover return shipping or refund initial shipping cost. Starting to seem sketch. $50 just for shipping back and forth to return.


This worries me a bit, they must have changed it like yesterday? I ordered it last week and the policy was still as it was before and I have a email discussion with a CS rep stating that as well. I hope I don't run in to any issues.


----------



## paulkon

This was the response I got from their sales rep when I emailed them about the policy change:
Quote:


> "Yes our return policy has changed going forward. Unfortunately, there were cases of customers abusing the return policy (e.g. ordering multiples and returning the majority) . If we continued down that path we would have to raise our prices, affecting all customers."


----------



## JSK23

From IPSLED CS moments ago:
Quote:


> Hi JSK23
> 
> Yes, you are still covered under the old return policy (the policy was updated over the weekend). We don't expect our customers to read our return policy daily, so it would not be fair to apply the new one to your order. No worries.
> 
> Thank you,


Phew, that had me worried. I was pretty sure I checked it thursday before I ordered friday and it was still the old one. Thankfully I was correct.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Another fine example of people trying (and in some cases succeeding) to game the system and ruining a good thing for everyone else going forward. "Oh, I know, I'll just order four and keep the one with the least bleed cause those suckers at IPSLED will return pay shipping!" Nice. I bet you thought you were some kind of genius too.


----------



## valtopps

im a noob with monitors I just order a 1440p monitor and people are talking about oc to 120hz. if my monitor can oc to 120hz can I watch 3d movies on it?


----------



## dorcopio

quote name="Xentar712" url="/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/7250#post_20851425"]
1) 1600p is a different aspect ratio(16:10 vs 16:9). It's virtually the same ppi and more expensive
2) Assuming your video card has drivers for Linux, it's possible but I don't know for sure.
3) From what I understand the 2700 has more inputs and a scalar. The 2710 only has DVI-D and no scalar.
4) From the threads I was reading a few months ago, many were getting 90ish Hz. There might be more up to date info now - check those threads.
5) There is no HDMI port on these monitors. Personally, I avoid HDMI like the plague. The cables are more expensive(good ones at least) and all you gain is sound. They are also more limited than DVI-D and Displayport in resolution unless you have v1.4, in which case it's hard to tell just by looking at the connection or wire.
6) all need to be compatible. I don't know any card that has HDMI 2.0 yet. I thought it was coming out next year. Chances are if you have a wire that's 1.4 compatible, it will be 2.0 compatible. 2.0 is intended for 4k resolutions.[/quote]

1) According to this site: http://members.ping.de/~sven/dpi.html
30" 1600p is 100.63 PPI
27" 1440p is 108.79 PPI
Which is quite big as difference.
Is anything above 108.79 PPI in the market? Excluding anything costing over 1000$ and things like the IBM T220 which you can't use for modern desktop and games.

2) Are you referring to closed or open driver?

3) Is the lacking of DVI-D preventing the 2700 from getting OC'd @120Hz?

4) Is that possible without DVI-D?

5) What is going to be the next big standard, like VGA or USB? DVI, HDMI or DP?
Can something old like DVI match HDMI and DP?
I come from VGA and I would like to jump to something really new and advanced, DVI isn't "fascinating" me.

6) Do you mean that a modern monitor can't get any benefit from a HDMI 2.0 connection?
And that I need special VGA to take advantage of HDMI 2.0?
Reading here: http://www.nvidia.it/object/geforce-gtx-780-it.html#pdpContent=2
It doesn't specify which HDMI it has.

NEW question: I'm reading that QNIX 27XX are great panels in cheap monitor (which I don't care) but you can have various little problems in getting them @120Hz:
- some won't get @120Hz
- some will suffer from image burn
- some will suffer from backlight bleeding
- some will suffer from color retention
- something more I don't remember

The fact is: is there anything which is officially 120Hz?
Is there any better panel/monitor?
I prefer spending 600$ and get for sure a [email protected] than spending 300$ and get a lottery ticket.


----------



## dorcopio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> 1) 1600p is a different aspect ratio(16:10 vs 16:9). It's virtually the same ppi and more expensive
> 2) Assuming your video card has drivers for Linux, it's possible but I don't know for sure.
> 3) From what I understand the 2700 has more inputs and a scalar. The 2710 only has DVI-D and no scalar.
> 4) From the threads I was reading a few months ago, many were getting 90ish Hz. There might be more up to date info now - check those threads.
> 5) There is no HDMI port on these monitors. Personally, I avoid HDMI like the plague. The cables are more expensive(good ones at least) and all you gain is sound. They are also more limited than DVI-D and Displayport in resolution unless you have v1.4, in which case it's hard to tell just by looking at the connection or wire.
> 6) all need to be compatible. I don't know any card that has HDMI 2.0 yet. I thought it was coming out next year. Chances are if you have a wire that's 1.4 compatible, it will be 2.0 compatible. 2.0 is intended for 4k resolutions.


1) According to this site: http://members.ping.de/~sven/dpi.html
30" 1600p is 100.63 PPI
27" 1440p is 108.79 PPI
Which is quite big as difference.
Is there anything above 108.79 PPI in the market? Excluding anything costing over 1000$ and things like the IBM T220 which you can't use for modern desktop and games.

2) Are you referring to closed or open driver?

3) Is the lacking of DVI-D preventing the 2700 from getting OC'd @120Hz?

4) Is that possible without DVI-D?

5) What is going to be the next big standard (like VGA or USB): DVI, HDMI or DP?
Can something old like DVI match HDMI and DP?
I come from VGA and I would like to jump to something really new and advanced, DVI isn't "fascinating" me.

6) Do you mean that a modern monitor can't get any benefit from a HDMI 2.0 connection?
And that I need special VGA to take advantage of HDMI 2.0?
Reading here: http://www.nvidia.it/object/geforce-gtx-780-it.html#pdpContent=2
It doesn't specify which HDMI it has.

NEW question: I'm reading that QNIX 27XX are great panels in cheap monitors (but I don't care abount monitors) but they can have various little problems when getting them @120Hz:
- some won't get @120Hz
- some will suffer from image burn
- some will suffer from backlight bleeding
- some will suffer from color retention
- something more I don't remember

Question: is there anything over 1080p to be officially 120Hz?
Is there any better panel/monitor than QNIX 27XX?
I prefer spending 600$ to get [email protected] for sure than spending 300$ to get a lottery ticket.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> im a noob with monitors I just order a 1440p monitor and people are talking about oc to 120hz. if my monitor can oc to 120hz can I watch 3d movies on it?


No, 3D monitors are able to polarize with the glasses to black out the screen, these are not.


----------



## Killa Cam

can the display port versions oc to 120hz as well?


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Just picked up a matte qnix from ipsledmonitors.com. They were backordered on all the glossy's


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> can the display port versions oc to 120hz as well?


No. Only the no-scalar DL-DVI only ones can.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> 1) According to this site: http://members.ping.de/~sven/dpi.html
> 30" 1600p is 100.63 PPI
> 27" 1440p is 108.79 PPI
> Which is quite big as difference.
> Is there anything above 108.79 PPI in the market? Excluding anything costing over 1000$ and things like the IBM T220 which you can't use for modern desktop and games.


Ipad? Monitorwise, there's really nothing in the desktop market.
Quote:


> 3) Is the lacking of DVI-D preventing the 2700 from getting OC'd @120Hz?


Different design, different board. It has DL-DVI-D, but that isn't the issue. It's the internal electronics.
Quote:


> 4) Is that possible without DVI-D?


Not on these monitors.
Quote:


> 5) What is going to be the next big standard (like VGA or USB): DVI, HDMI or DP?


My prediction is HDMI, even though I detest it.
Quote:


> Can something old like DVI match HDMI and DP?


Yes. Except for transmitting sound, which it can't do.
Quote:


> 6) Do you mean that a modern monitor can't get any benefit from a HDMI 2.0 connection?


The vast majority (like 99%+) of monitors and computers can't even take advantage of HDMI 1.4b, let alone HDMI 2.0.
Quote:


> And that I need special VGA to take advantage of HDMI 2.0?


VGA is completely incompatible with HDMI.
Quote:


> Reading here: http://www.nvidia.it/object/geforce-gtx-780-it.html#pdpContent=2
> It doesn't specify which HDMI it has.


You need a DVI->VGA adapter to use that card with a VGA monitor, and you can only use one VGA monitor as it only has one DVI-I port that you can use with the adapter.
Quote:


> NEW question: I'm reading that QNIX 27XX are great panels in cheap monitors (but I don't care abount monitors) but they can have various little problems when getting them @120Hz:
> - some won't get @120Hz *True. Most do, although some with issues.*
> - some will suffer from image burn *Sort of true. It's "image retention", a temporary artifact which goes away. Various IPS/PLS panels have suffered from this issue. Not an issue at 60hz, tends to be exacerbated at high overclocks.*
> - some will suffer from backlight bleeding *Very true. Quite common actually, but also can be (partially) fixed.*
> - some will suffer from color retention *Generally true. It's the same issue as the "image burn".*
> - something more I don't remember *Of course it's... well, it might be true. Uniformity and brightness issues at high overclocks is the other primary issue.*


Quote:


> Question: is there anything over 1080p to be officially 120Hz?


Not at the consumer level.
Quote:


> Is there any better panel/monitor than QNIX 27XX?


Of course. How much do you want to pay? And what kind of "better" are you looking for?
Quote:


> I prefer spending 600$ to get [email protected] for sure than spending 300$ to get a lottery ticket.


That monitor that you speak of does not exist, at _any_ price right now. The Qnix/xstar is the only 1440p panel that can common get to 120hz, is PLS/IPS and can do so at a cheap price. Yes, it's a risk. It is, however, the only game in town.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> Just picked up a matte qnix from ipsledmonitors.com. They were backordered on all the glossy's


I got a Matte too and trust me, it is very nice so dont feel sad about the glossy


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That monitor that you speak of does not exist, at _any_ price right now. The Qnix/xstar is the only 1440p panel that can common get to 120hz, is PLS/IPS and can do so at a cheap price. Yes, it's a risk. It is, however, the only game in town.


Don't the Tempest monitors OC near 120Hz? Really, if he's willing to spend $600, just get any compatible monitor and put an Overlord PCB in it.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> 1) According to this site: http://members.ping.de/~sven/dpi.html
> 30" 1600p is 100.63 PPI
> 27" 1440p is 108.79 PPI
> Which is quite big as difference.
> Is there anything above 108.79 PPI in the market? Excluding anything costing over 1000$ and things like the IBM T220 which you can't use for modern desktop and games.


Stick with 27" then. Those numbers might be closer - I'm not sure if the diagonal is rounded or not. Either way, 1600p monitors are a waste of money imho. 16:9 is just as good an aspect ratio.

You're not going to find any monitors with a higher ppi at that size. There just isn't a demand for it yet and most older video cards can't handle doing anything useful on it other than displaying stationary pictures. Plus, the price tag would be expensive. An iPad screen is tiny and easier to QC than a 27" panel.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> I got a Matte too and trust me, it is very nice so dont feel sad about the glossy


oh I wont. Im excited to go from my u2711 with crazy input lag and that annoying AG coaiting to one of these. OC or not, I still look at it as an upgrade.







. Can't wait to join to club haha.


----------



## dorcopio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> VGA is completely incompatible with HDMI.
> You need a DVI->VGA adapter to use that card with a VGA monitor, and you can only use one VGA monitor as it only has one DVI-I port that you can use with the adapter..


Sorry I haven't been clear: with VGA I was meaning both Video Graphic Adapter and Video Graphics Array

Question 5) -> Video Graphics Array
Question 6) -> Video Graphic Adapter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Not at the consumer level.
> Of course. How much do you want to pay? And what kind of "better" are you looking for?
> That monitor that you speak of does not exist, at _any_ price right now. The Qnix/xstar is the only 1440p panel that can common get to 120hz, is PLS/IPS and can do so at a cheap price. Yes, it's a risk. It is, however, the only game in town.


I cannot believe it...(in a sad meaning of the sentence)
We've Apple throwing "Retina" things everywhere and we have nothing more than 2 or 3 monitors capable of [email protected], all via unofficiale ways?
We've 32" 2160p costing 3500$ and 30" 1600p STIll cost 500-1500$??? Feels like wrong to me.


----------



## skilly

I just wanted to chime in and give an update on my x-star. I've been trying a lot of different cable all with different results. Basically every time I get a new cable and OC to 120hz I notice a little line here or some static there. I think I've finally found a cable that works for me 100%. The only cable I cannot try are the 3ft ones, so its 6ft only for me. I've also tested both DVI ports with all cables.

1. Stock cable, 28awg, , OC to 120hz standard I get horizontal lines everywhere on the start screen. Tried front porch method and noticed a few lines playing games. 110hz is perfect.

2. Monoprice 24awg 6ft. . Basically the same as the stock, maybe even worse. 110hz is perfect.

3. Bluejeanscable.. 24awg 6ft. Worked fine for about a week and noticed some static when opening an app. It must have always been there but it took a bit to notice. 110hz is perfect.

4. Cable Matters 28awg 6ft. OC'd at 120hz on standard and noticed just a little static on top right, all other cable would be unusable on standard. Did the front porch method and tested all of the other issues I had with other cables and so far its been perfect 100% . I may notice something in the future but its been a few days now and I have seen no distortion whatsoever.

So for you guys asking for cable recommendation I've had the best luck with this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Ferrites-Copper/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380034039&sr=8-1&keywords=dvi-d+cable+matters

Hope this helps someone. Your mileage may vary..


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> I just wanted to chime in and give an update on my x-star. I've been trying a lot of different cable all with different results. Basically every time I get a new cable and OC to 120hz I notice a little line here or some static there. I think I've finally found a cable that works for me 100%. The only cable I cannot try are the 3ft ones, so its 6ft only for me. I've also tested both DVI ports with all cables.
> 
> 1. Stock cable, 28awg, , OC to 120hz standard I get horizontal lines everywhere on the start screen. Tried front porch method and noticed a few lines playing games. 110hz is perfect.
> 
> 2. Monoprice 24awg 6ft. . Basically the same as the stock, maybe even worse. 110hz is perfect.
> 
> 3. Bluejeanscable.. 24awg 6ft. Worked fine for about a week and noticed some static when opening an app. It must have always been there but it took a bit to notice. 110hz is perfect.
> 
> 4. Cable Matters 28awg 6ft. OC'd at 120hz on standard and noticed just a little static on top right, all other cable would be unusable on standard. Did the front porch method and tested all of the other issues I had with other cables and so far its been perfect 100% . I may notice something in the future but its been a few days now and I have seen no distortion whatsoever.
> 
> So for you guys asking for cable recommendation I've had the best luck with this one:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Ferrites-Copper/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380034039&sr=8-1&keywords=dvi-d+cable+matters
> 
> Hope this helps someone. Your mileage may vary..


Nice stuff . Thanks for sharing mate!


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Nice stuff . Thanks for sharing mate!


Agree, I'll take your word for it and grab one. Can't hurt


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Sorry I haven't been clear: with VGA I was meaning both Video Graphic Adapter and Video Graphics Array
> 
> Question 5) -> Video Graphics Array
> Question 6) -> Video Graphic Adapter.


Ah. In that case, no video card supports HDMI 2.0, and probably will not for now and the near future (1-2 years?)
Quote:


> I cannot believe it...(in a sad meaning of the sentence)
> We've Apple throwing "Retina" things everywhere and we have nothing more than 2 or 3 monitors capable of [email protected], all via unofficiale ways?
> We've 32" 2160p costing 3500$ and 30" 1600p STIll cost 500-1500$??? Feels like wrong to me.


Retina never referred to refresh rates, so...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Don't the Tempest monitors OC near 120Hz? Really, if he's willing to spend $600, just get any compatible monitor and put an Overlord PCB in it.


Forgot about those, yes the Tempest X270OC can overclock as well, but they're little more than Catleap 2B's in different shells. They, at least, do not suffer from image retention, colour shifts, uniformity and brightness issues when overclocked. But 120hz is still not guaranteed.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Retina never referred to refresh rates, so....


I think his point was we have major continuous advancement the amount of pixels on the screen, yet very little in their refresh rate.


----------



## Deluxe

Because 99% of pc users could'nt care less about higher than 60hz.
We are a lot of people but a tiny percentage


----------



## haralla

20130925-P1070529.JPG 5425k .JPG file


I actually live in Seoul and went and pick up a QX2710 from Yongsan in Seoul for just under $270 with guaranteed no dead pixels.

Overclocked and tested at 120mhz with no frameskipping.

How is my backlight bleed?

I found 1 dead pixel, which means I can definitely return it for a refund/exchange if needed but since it seems to reach 120mhz I take it it's not really worth replacing? Bear in mind it would only take me a few hours to get a replacement free of charge.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Because 99% of pc users could'nt care less about higher than 60hz.
> We are a lot of people but a tiny percentage


Where did you get this statistic?
A majority of gamers care about low FPS, and I believe gamers make up a huge portion of "pc users."


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Where did you get this statistic?
> A majority of gamers care about low FPS, and I believe gamers make up a huge portion of "pc users."


As much as I'd like to agree, I don't think gamers make up that much of the "pc user" category. everyone owns a PC these days. I'd estimate maybe 10-20% are gamers, and of that, only 40-50% are concerned with resfresh rates. I base this on nothing but pure guesstimation


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> As much as I'd like to agree, I don't think gamers make up that much of the "pc user" category. everyone owns a PC these days. I'd estimate maybe 10-20% are gamers, and of that, only 40-50% are concerned with resfresh rates. I base this on nothing but pure guesstimation


Also with these monitor you need a pretty decent GPU.. You can still be a gamer with a weak video card that cannot push 1440 or 120hz.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> I cannot believe it...(in a sad meaning of the sentence)
> We've Apple throwing "Retina" things everywhere and we have nothing more than 2 or 3 monitors capable of [email protected], all via unofficiale ways?
> We've 32" 2160p costing 3500$ and 30" 1600p STIll cost 500-1500$??? Feels like wrong to me.


even Apple doesn't have a 27" monitor higher than 1440p. Their newest iMac that came out today has that resolution. It's just too expensive and video card can't handle it as well. Besides, "retina" is all about pixel density and not total pixels. Their latest iPad is 2048 x 1536 which is 3.1 million pixels. These monitors have almost 3.7 million pixels. If you used the same "retina" pixel density on a 27" panel, it would have over 15 million pixels. Huge difference in processing power needed to operate that!


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Because 99% of pc users could'nt care less about higher than 60hz.
> We are a lot of people but a tiny percentage


100% agree with this comment. We are in a huge minority right now. Maybe in a few years after most upgrade to the 120 Hz or 240 Hz televisions, will everyone start caring about their PC monitor refresh rate. Even most gamers don't really care about 120Hz because they don't know what they are missing. I certainly didn't know anything until I actually saw it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Where did you get this statistic?
> A majority of gamers care about low FPS, and I believe gamers make up a huge portion of "pc users."


I think you're right about caring for low fps, but I think most gamers would agree that >45fps is perfectly acceptable and 60fps is optimum. My only source of info to go off of is the sheer amount of reviews I see for GTX 660(midrange) vs 670 and 680 reviews. If most gamers were that concerned, most would purchase the high end cards, which is not the case. Hard to measure things accurately this way, I know, but I think most game card manufacturers would admit their Nvidia "60's" series cards sell the best over the others.

I do not think gamers are a huge portion of pc users. Considering the amount of business users, I think gamers are roughly 10%.


----------



## dorcopio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Forgot about those, yes the Tempest X270OC can overclock as well, but they're little more than Catleap 2B's in different shells. They, at least, do not suffer from image retention, colour shifts, uniformity and brightness issues when overclocked. But 120hz is still not guaranteed.


Practically Tempest have the same panels of Catleap/QNIX coupled with a slightly different PCB?
What about percentage of overclock success?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> even Apple doesn't have a 27" monitor higher than 1440p. Their newest iMac that came out today has that resolution. It's just too expensive and video card can't handle it as well. Besides, "retina" is all about pixel density and not total pixels. Their latest iPad is 2048 x 1536 which is 3.1 million pixels. These monitors have almost 3.7 million pixels. If you used the same "retina" pixel density on a 27" panel, it would have over 15 million pixels. Huge difference in processing power needed to operate that!


I know, that's why I've written "Retina" and not Retina.
I'm so sad...
And as someone stated we're only 5% of the whole computer market: no producer will care about us.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Practically Tempest have the same panels of Catleap/QNIX coupled with a slightly different PCB?
> What about percentage of overclock success?


Tempests and Catleaps use an LG IPS panel. Qnix use a Samsung PLS panel.

Percentage of overclock success is high, but probably about the same as with Qnix/Catleap 2B. Overlord X270OC are tested to 96hz, but no operation beyond 60hz is warrantied.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I know, that's why I've written "Retina" and not Retina.
> I'm so sad...
> And as someone stated we're only 5% of the whole computer market: no producer will care about us.


I'm not saying it won't come. It will. Just not for 5-8 years. Seriously, at the ppi you desire, 15 million pixels too much to ask. Even HDMI 2.0, which is brand new and won't be out till next year, only supports 9 million pixels at 60Hz.

Progress happens regardless of what category you are in. Apple will always push their users to like pretty things. High ppi monitors are pretty so they will adopt the technology when it is available. Other manufacturers will do the same. It will cost you but they will eventually make the monitor you want.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Overlord X270OC are tested to 96hz, but no operation beyond 60hz is warrantied.


They are tested _at_ 96hz, Scribby tests at 96hz to ensure that the OC models actually overclock before shipping them out - many of them go above that normally between 110-120hz.


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> 100% agree with this comment. We are in a huge minority right now. Maybe in a few years after most upgrade to the 120 Hz or 240 Hz televisions, will everyone start caring about their PC monitor refresh rate. Even most gamers don't really care about 120Hz because they don't know what they are missing. I certainly didn't know anything until I actually saw it.


Retina doesn't precisely equate to pixel-density because what Apple says they mean by it is that from a nominal viewing distance for the particular device in question, the pixel density is enough to where the human eye cannot distinguish between pixels.

For a 27" iMac this is around 28", for an iPhone it's around 6" and for an 8"-9" tablet it's around 12" - 18". If any of us were to bring the screen within 4 inches of our faces (assuming 20/20 vision) then the display would need a pixel density of 2190 ppi for pixels to be indistinguishable.

http://wolfcrow.com/blog/notes-by-dr-optoglass-the-resolution-of-the-human-eye/

Devices like the Google Glass are already around or above this mark however the ppi would need to be much higher than 2190 if the display really is within less than 4 inches of our eye because of the pixel screen space limitation of 640 x 360.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Retina doesn't precisely equate to pixel-density because what Apple says they mean by it is that from a nominal viewing distance for the particular device in question, the pixel density is enough to where the human eye cannot distinguish between pixels.
> 
> For a 27" iMac this is around 28", for an iPhone it's around 6" and for an 8"-9" tablet it's around 12" - 18". If any of us were to bring the screen within 4 inches of our faces (for people with 20/20 vision) then the display would need a pixel density of 2190 ppi for pixels to be indistinguishable.
> 
> http://wolfcrow.com/blog/notes-by-dr-optoglass-the-resolution-of-the-human-eye/
> 
> Devices like the Google Glass are already around or above this mark however the ppi would need to be much higher than 2190 if the display really is within less than 4 inches of our eye because of the physical screen space limitation of 640 x 360.


You're right, I actually thought about that after I wrote it. That's precisely the reason why I don't really care so much about 4k and will be happy with this monitor for many years. I have a really tough time seeing the pixels - which is good! It's like when people show me their 1080p phones and I compare it to my Nexus 4 which has a 768p screen. At the distance I hold the phone away from my face, I can not tell any difference.


----------



## jerrolds

4K at 30" will look amazing - itll take at least 2 years before we can even power it at 60hz tho, we're barely able to power 1440p at 120hz outside of multi GPU setups


----------



## paulkon

Where the "nominal distance" doesn't stay constant is for video. Because we're not "reading" the video the range of distance from which we can sit or lean into the screen varies quite a bit more than text. This is why 4K/8K is being introduced. Because people sitting 4 feet all the way to 15 feet away from a 85" - 100" TV wouldn't be able to distinguish between pixels.


----------



## jerrolds

Agreed - i am currently 8ft away from my 1080p 60" and it looks terrible outside of movies/videos - no way i can use it as a monitor. I cant really even game on it since ive been spoiled with 120hz 1440p.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> 100% agree with this comment. We are in a huge minority right now. Maybe in a few years after most upgrade to the 120 Hz or 240 Hz televisions, will everyone start caring about their PC monitor refresh rate. Even most gamers don't really care about 120Hz because they don't know what they are missing. I certainly didn't know anything until I actually saw it.
> I think you're right about caring for low fps, but I think most gamers would agree that >45fps is perfectly acceptable and 60fps is optimum. My only source of info to go off of is the sheer amount of reviews I see for GTX 660(midrange) vs 670 and 680 reviews. If most gamers were that concerned, most would purchase the high end cards, which is not the case. Hard to measure things accurately this way, I know, but I think most game card manufacturers would admit their Nvidia "60's" series cards sell the best over the others.
> 
> I do not think gamers are a huge portion of pc users. Considering the amount of business users, I think gamers are roughly 10%.


Although i agree that a lot of people do not know or care about over 60hz refresh, i do have a big issue with made up statistics. Lets stop tossing made up percentages around as it is technically mis-information. if you don't care about 120hz then don't overclock the monitor is still fantastic. Many do not know about refresh rates, FPS, response times, input lag etc but this is not a constant on the need or desire for the technology. I do think anything over 30FPS without excessive tearing is playable but that is not the point really, this is not just for gamers. As someone who works a good deal from home remotely i can say having a 120hz screen makes the whole desktop experience better and majorly cut down on my headaches after staring at the screen for 12 ours straight. For desktop use and frame duplication does not require a beastly Gfx card to do. Otherwise i think many gamers are "concerned" with the level of refresh and would love to have the extra frames but everyone has a budget and a knowledge base to properly use it. Honestly before getting teh Qnix and seeing PLS [email protected] i would think money would be better spent of Gfx card but now after using this monitor it is pretty apparent that no matter how powerful your machine is it can only display as good as your screen. So that ind set has switched, from personal experience i can also say that many of my friends initially thought the same thing until after seeing PLS in action.

Bottom line there is no real way to pull these stats in an honest manner and so far there has been percentages through out. Percentages give the general thought of being fact or "real" but these so far have been guessing and assumptions(even though i will even admit that there is valid thought behind it but that still does not make it fact).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Agreed - i am currently 8ft away from my 1080p 60" and it looks terrible outside of movies/videos - no way i can use it as a monitor. I cant really even game on it since ive been spoiled with 120hz 1440p.


Agreed, I also can't hardly go to the movies anymore because at that size all i can do is stare at the pixels. I think i am going to have to get that seike 4K TV to be able to stand the PPI.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Although i agree that a lot of people do not know or care about over 60hz refresh, i do have a big issue with made up statistics. Lets stop tossing made up percentages around as it is technically mis-information.


I said I think, not that 10% is fact. Unless you were talking about someone else. My whole comment was an opinion.


----------



## Nazrule

Just placed a order from ipsledmonitors.com for an Xstar 27inch and hopefully this 1 will have minimal BLB. After somehow cracking my 1st monitor after doing the tape mod on my Qnix which I think was from a pressure point from the warped metal frame I didn't want to take another chance of having to do that again. They cost more than some of the ebay sellers but their warranty seems much better. I'll post back on how it is when I receive it.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> Just placed a order from ipsledmonitors.com for an Xstar 27inch and hopefully this 1 will have minimal BLB. After somehow cracking my 1st monitor after doing the tape mod on my Qnix which I think was from a pressure point from the warped metal frame I didn't want to take another chance of having to do that again. They cost more than some of the ebay sellers but their warranty seems much better. I'll post back on how it is when I receive it.


Was it a glossy or matte that cracked?


----------



## Nazrule

Matte, it was after I applied the tape and was popping it back into the metal frame. Cracked right at a pressure point where I was getting bad back light bleed.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Hey guys,

Just wanted to give you a bit of feedback on a new seller on the block - zoneforbuyer.

I just purchased a Qnix from him - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251245265208?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

$25 cash back which made him the cheapest on ebay.com.au That is a good $50 cheaper than the next option for Australian buyers. The monitor was sent out next day and has arrived extremely well packaged with the entire outer box protective wrapped. No import fees etc.

I have purchased from Accessorieswhole before who were also very good but this one came quicker, was better packaged and was a fraction of the price.

Big







to these guys!


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> Matte, it was after I applied the tape and was popping it back into the metal frame. Cracked right at a pressure point where I was getting bad back light bleed.


Damn. If the pressure on it were that bad you'd think they would have QC'd it.


----------



## jerrolds

When I bent the metal frame into shape i made sure it was flush against the floor in every possible way, lying down, on its side, upside down, right side up...then after i put it all together i realized i had a metal T-square i couldve used







Imo its pretty tough to bend it in such a way that itll crack when putting it back on.

That does suck tho.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> When I bent the metal frame into shape i made sure it was flush against the floor in every possible way, lying down, on its side, upside down, right side up...then after i put it all together i realized i had a metal T-square i couldve used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Imo its pretty tough to bend it in such a way that itll crack when putting it back on.
> 
> That does suck tho.


I did it awhile back and didn't really see anyone talking about bending the frame back at the time mostly just the tape mod. I just made sure to do a real good even job with the tape but I guess with the frame being bent and adding the tape all around was too much pressure and cracked it.







Oh well at least if this new 1 has bad bleeding I should be able to get a free replacement.


----------



## Proclaim89

On the tram with my qnix qx2710 lol. Will post picks later, really concernee for dead, bright pixels and excessive blb. Wish me luck!


----------



## HappyHimitsu

SCARE OF A LIFETIME!

Ok, so wow. About half an hour ago I was playing an Oculus Rift Demo called 'fallen angel's lair' or something like that, when something went funny with my video card (Possible unstable OC on my gtx 580) and I ended up with a blank screen and about a 3 and a half inch wide row of pixels on the right side of my monitor looking very badly damaged (the row was similar to the way the pixels would appear if you had an unstable OC on your Qnix, but much brighter).
Resetting my PC and keeping my fingers crossed, I arrived at my UEFI only to be very disappointed that the damage was still there. I figured my brand new monitor was borked...
So, feeling somewhat defeated (and out $340) I resolved myself to trying multiple things, powering on and off the monitor repeatedly, switching ports on my GPU, wriggling the cord, etc. Only to be disappointed every time and nearly ready to cry (not seriously







, but I had nearly given up and gone to bed seriously bummed.).
So after booting back in to windows to gauge whether or not I would be able to work with a portion of my screen being borked, I noticed that the damage had seemed to fade somewhat. This gave me hope.
I started running through all the wallpapers I have set up on my desktop, leaving the brightest ones to sit for a minute or two, and then switching back to the dark ones, and YAY!!! The 'damage' began to fade and is now completely gone!
It turned out that when my video card did it's 'thing' the brightness of the rows of pixels had caused some rather heavy, but temporary (thank God, I did) burn in. Our Qnix was not damaged after all and now I am happily typing this out telling you my story.

So if something similar happens to you guys, do what I did and keep your fingers crossed that it's only some temporary burn in!

I'm so happy right now lol, what an emotional night!


----------



## yasamoka

It's not burn-in, it's (color / image) retention. They are very different.


----------



## Proclaim89

Well I set it up, and ttriedny monoprice 24awg cable, plugged it in and bam, scan lines like a laser show. Started to cry then tried the default one, and is perfect WOW, $35 down the drain but im happy, time to oc


----------



## true86no

Has anyone tried the 327.23 nvidia drivers? I checked the last few pages and there were no mentions.

Disregard. I searched it and found the answer. Turns out the drivers were out a week. Hehe. I tend to take time to read every post so I am currently backlogged 30 pages...


----------



## zgr7

Greetings everyone. This is my first message on these forums. I've been searching a lot lately for 'the' monitor but so far nothing that would satisfy my needs. I was going to buy Viewsonic VP 2770 but i couldn't find it in anywhere. Now i got interested in these Korean PLS Monitors. What would be the best option you think for me. My criterias are:

-27" 2560x1440
-PWM-free like VP2770 (i had issues with Asus PB278Q)
-I want to use 1440p res in video editing in desktop and 1080p res in gaming
-I'm not interested in high refresh rates. I'm currently gaming on a 19" 75hz Viewsonic VX922 2ms LCD monitor, which is pretty fine imo. A ghost free image at 60-75hz is good enough for me (i play FPS games mostly. Quake Live, UT and COD)
-HDMI in connection (to be used as a camera output monitor)
-Minimal backlight bleeding (very important) and minimal pixel issues
-Budget: 800$-1000$
-I want to solve my monitor issues with one product only, instead of buying a 1440p monitor for video editing, and 1080p monitor for gaming.

Is there a Korean PLS Monitor that ticks these or am i out of luck? What would you recommend? I'm not interested in any Dell or Asus like models to be used as a single monitor. They are not good enough. It is either VP2770 (which i can't find anywhere) or Korean alternatives. If i can't find a solution, i guess i'll have to go with a two monitor setup.

Your help is GREATLY appreciated.


----------



## Texastitan

Im looking to buy this monitor but i have a question about connections and cant seem to find the answer for this. I have a asus 780 and it has two DVI ports. Will i be able to just buy an adapter?

This is my graphics card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121779

Since you need a DVI D for this monitor, am i able to just buy an adapter from DVI to DVI D and still be able to OC it?


----------



## jerrolds

Yes - that video card should have 2xDL-DVI outputs, one DVI-I and one DVI-D. The I stands for Integrated, which supports DVI-A (analog) and DVI-D (digital). You wont need any adapters to get that video card to work with up to 2 QNIX (or any 1440p DVI only) panels.

DVI-D (digital only, single-link or dual-link)
DVI-A (analog only)
DVI-I (integrated, combines digital and analog in the same connector; digital may be single- or dual-link)

http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/GTX780DC2OC3GD5/ for more details about that card


----------



## Texastitan

thank you! very relieved! cant wait to order one


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It's not burn-in, it's (color / image) retention. They are very different.


That hardly changes the purpose of my post does it?


----------



## mudzi

Just got my monitor and this is amazing, no pixel errors and no backlight bleeding (unless you look from the side. Ordered a pixel perfect one from green-sum and people say pixel perfect is a scam but this was worth it







It also managed to do 96hz out of the box in nvidia controllpanel and after 1 minute off usage 60hz became laggy


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well...the premium served it's purpose for you I guess but it's still quite possible to get a defect-free one non-PP. "Scam" is a little strong of a term, granted.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> That hardly changes the purpose of my post does it?


Not the purpose of your post, but the repeated question from others who keep asking whether "burn-in" is permanent or not.

It's not burn-in, it's image retention. That's what it is.


----------



## HappyHimitsu

lol, fair enough; but though I can respect your somewhat finicky regard for semantics I still fail to see how what you are saying really matters.
In the case of my post, I had initially suspected burn-in so that is the term that I used throughout.
So long as the lot of us know what we are getting at, does such conversation really necessitate an impeccable application of the already somewhat untoward English language?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Uh it "matters"-greatly-because "image retention" is not actual damage and thus *not permanent*. Burn-in is.


----------



## mdrejhon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Uh it "matters"-greatly-because "image retention" is not actual damage and thus *not permanent*. Burn-in is.


If you run a panel prone to image retention for a long time, the retention can essentially burn in. Google "permament image retention on LCD"

Mainly happens when voltage inversion is poor (Google "LCD inversion"), combined with forcing the temporary retention to occur in the same place for a very long time (e.g. days, weeks, months), the temporary retention can slowly become harder to fade away. A properly designed LCD, with good voltage inversion, doesn't have retention issues, though.


----------



## jerrolds

You can have stubborn IR, but it wont be permanent - most of the time people run slides/static for a few days at most to get rid of it. LCD is typically much harder to get even short duration IR

Plasma/LCD wont get burn-in unless its displaying the same static image FOR WEEKS without change...so basically impossible unless done on purpose.


----------



## Proclaim89

Ok so ive tried 96hz and 120hz, and its AMAZING! 1440P NEVER LOOKED SO GOOD! I have 2 stuck pixels but thats nothing to cry about espcially since I have barely any blb. 120hz has some scan lines and it did get a little darker. Cant really tell a difference between 96hz&120hz so ill go back to 96hz, but first to see how far this beast can go. Me thinks I got lucky, (espcially with the blb) little uniformity issues but dont really notice it, using asus pb278q v3.icc profile.Using gtx 560.


----------



## junkrok

my IR was pretty bad at anything above 96Hz. I think it has a lot to do with static images, which the majority of gamers probably do not experience (other than a HUD).

i eventually got smart and realized I didn't need an overclocked monitor for doing excel and email.


----------



## mdrejhon

First, good job on correct capture of Frame Skipping Test on TestUFO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Proclaim89*
> 
> Cant really tell a difference between 96hz&120hz so ill go back to 96hz


That's because the IPS pixel transitions are a bit too slow to have less motion blur at 120Hz than at 96Hz. It's much easier to tell apart 96Hz and 120Hz on a TN display (as crappy as the colors may be). The lower refresh rate is a good compromise since it's easier for a GPU to generate [email protected] than to generate [email protected]


----------



## air tree

So overall guys what seller and where would you buy one of these monitors?


----------



## Net200777

Does anyone know the cause of my gpu crashing back to windows running at 96hz or higher? First the screen goes black and the blue light blinks and then it crashes back to the desktop. I think this happens mostly in modded games not sure, but it doesn't happen that often either and sometimes it recovers by itself. I'm running 96hz 32bit everything is auto.


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Uh it "matters"-greatly-because "image retention" is not actual damage and thus *not permanent*. Burn-in is.


Nice of you to share your opinion, but I think you are misunderstanding my point.
I am simply implying that it really does not matter which term I used in lieu of the sense of the context in which I used the term. Why? Because you all know what I meant, right?
Now, don't you have better things to do than argue with me about whether or not it is acceptable to use the term 'burn in' in place of 'very bad image retention'?
I can't help but push a little harder when people get pushy. In fact, it *is* image burn and not image retention. You sir, are wrong.









I apologize for the acrimonious mockery of your position towards my post, but I already explained that I was speaking in retrospect towards what I had _thought_ had happened to my monitor and so I retained the term.


----------



## timaishu

I think Im just going to keep my monitor, even thought it cannot go beyond 60hz. The only thing holding me back from sending it in is the fact I have zero dead pixels and very minimal BLB. Im not liking the risk of ending up with a worse monitor.

Just sucks, I mean I would love to be able to overclock, but it seems like I am not quaranteed to end up with a perfect monitor like I have now.


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> I think Im just going to keep my monitor, even thought it cannot go beyond 60hz. The only thing holding me back from sending it in is the fact I have zero dead pixels and very minimal BLB. Im not liking the risk of ending up with a worse monitor.
> 
> Just sucks, I mean I would love to be able to overclock, but it seems like I am not quaranteed to end up with a perfect monitor like I have now.


What's the problem with overclock? Is there a hdmi port on yours?


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> What's the problem with overclock? Is there a hdmi port on yours?


I made post couple pages back. Mine is a dvi only panel. Beyond 60hz I get a red vertical line. I can even see it at 70hz. The higher the clock, the more apparent the line becomes by turning a reddish color.


----------



## jerrolds

I think its worth the risk to try again, BLB is easy enough to fix - and chances that youll get dead/bright/stuck pixels in a place where youd be bothered by it would be pretty low. But if youre comfortable and like your panel - then awesome - your monitor is probably better than 99% of the people in a 50km radius.


----------



## Dejam87

my League of legends won't start at all ( even the launcher ) if im using 96hz or 120hz yet all my other games work just fine , any idea guys ? ( i oc'ed from nvidiapanel only )

but when I switch back to 60hz , the game works just fine , strange XD


----------



## valtopps

are you using the dvi cable they sent you in the box also what video card are you using?


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> I think Im just going to keep my monitor, even thought it cannot go beyond 60hz. The only thing holding me back from sending it in is the fact I have zero dead pixels and very minimal BLB. Im not liking the risk of ending up with a worse monitor.
> 
> Just sucks, I mean I would love to be able to overclock, but it seems like I am not quaranteed to end up with a perfect monitor like I have now.


Understandable. I got a great panel and I wouldn't want to give it up either.
That being said I agree with the others that your chances of getting anything you can't repair easily are pretty slim. I would do the return personally.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> I made post couple pages back. Mine is a dvi only panel. Beyond 60hz I get a red vertical line. I can even see it at 70hz. The higher the clock, the more apparent the line becomes by turning a reddish color.


if you're seriously going to dump a 0dp no BLB panel, PM me for an offer. don't waste it.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> if you're seriously going to dump a 0dp no BLB panel, PM me for an offer. don't waste it.


I wouldn't get rid of it. I would either keep it or return it.

And I guess I shouldn't have raved so hard about the blb. Mine does have it, but its not enough to bother me, its not perfect, but its perfect for me in that for my normal usesage I cannot see it. If I load up a black screen and turn off the lights, I can see it. But I never use it with the lights off with dark stuff so its a non issue.

But as for pixels, it is pixel perfect.


----------



## valtopps

would a blu ray movie do 1440p? or these monitors are for mainly for gamming. I bought one of these monitors should be in Monday, I mostly watch movies and only game very little. I was looking for something sharper and cleaner. hope I didn't waste my money.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> would a blu ray movie do 1440p? or these monitors are for mainly for gamming. I bought one of these monitors should be in Monday, I mostly watch movies and only game very little. I was looking for something sharper and cleaner. hope I didn't waste my money.


Very few blu rays do anything above 1080p. Only documentaries do 1440p+ right now. If you're asking if you can watch them on a 1440p screen, then yes.

What you WILL GET is a sharper picture, because these monitors look amazing. The black levels are very good and the colors are amazing. But this has nothing to do with pixels. Just be sure to download the proper color setting from the first post. Also, if you overclock, make sure you grab the right one for your refresh rate. Additionally, Turn off desktop composition if you want 120Hz looks to your movies. You can do it for all of Windows or just for say VLC or XBMC. Just go into your C: drive program files or where ever you installed the program and rght-click the exe and choose Properties, then under Compatibility, check "Disable desktop composition" and click OK. This should make the videos run at whatever refresh rate you have. XBMC also allows you to cap your refresh rate at the videos native frames per second. It's up to you. This also works for games.


----------



## mudzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> So overall guys what seller and where would you buy one of these monitors?


green-sum


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

So I got this at 2am EST from ipsledmonitors.com.
Quote:


> Thank you for placing your order. Would you be willing to receive a QNIX
> QX2710LED monitor instead of the X-star DP2710LED. They are both made by the
> same manufacturer, have the same panel, bezel, and technical specs. Side by
> side they are identical monitors other than the logo.
> 
> The reason for this is the manufacturer has stopped producing the X-star
> brand. We inspected our last remaining stock and they were not in a
> condition we would want to ship to our customers.
> 
> We apologize for any inconvenience and appreciate your business.
> Thank you


Didn't realize they were doing any type of QC before shipping, assuming he's not just blowin smoke up my arse


----------



## Woned

Going to pick up my monitor at fedex today, I paid 329$ and they told me yesterday that I will have to pay 61$ for customs... Didnt quite expect that. I just hope it will be a good one!


----------



## Clexzor

Hey all couple questions if anyone could share some knowledge.

Currently using a pb278 2560x1440 60hz great monitor really love it couipled with my gtx 780 @ 1254mhz

I was looking to pick one of these up and use my pb278 for my workstation. Im really liking the fact that you can possibly OC above 80hz.

However im hearing folks are getting image retention when overclocking. Is that something that can be fixed manually or just luck of the draw?

Was looking to get this one http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00BUI6S3Y/ref=pd_cp_pc_1

Also would the difrence be that much? If not id prly shell out for a vewsonic instead.


----------



## driedupfish

I bought the Qnix monitor from http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ because of their return policy, that you can return the monitor for any reason for free. The monitor arrived from South Korea so I am guessing they just order from ebay sellers and have it directly shipped to the buyer. The monitor came looking like it's been taken out. There are fingerprints on the frame and the plastic film looks like it has been removed and reapplied. I figured maybe because the seller took out the monitor to test for dead pixels before shipping it.

However, there are very noticeable backlight bleeding, so I decided to return it the very next day. I ordered the monitor on 9/13, it arrived on the 9/18, I asked for a return shipping label the very next day, but they didn't email me one until the end of the day on 9/20. It shouldn't be a problem as they stated a 30 day return period, right? Well that is what was stated on their return policy at the time I place the order. Here come's the fishy part: they changed the return policy soon after I asked for a refund.

Here is the current return policy : https://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Articles.asp?ID=3

Here is return policy at the time I place my order :



Notice how they changed the return period from 30 to 14 days and added that last statement at the end where you aren't suppose to remove the factory shrink wrap (like I said mine looks like the film has been removed and reapplied).

I returned the monitor on Monday and it should arrive on Friday, which is exacatly 14 days from the day I place the order.

I did some digging and found that these people also sell other things from Korea like dashcam and door locks.

http://www.electricdoorlockshop.com/return-information_a/251.htm

http://www.blackvuecamera.com/blackvue-camera-returns_a/255.htm

Notice for the other 2 products they are selling the return period is still 30 days.

Doesn't this seem fishy to anyone else or am I being paranoid?

Let's just hope that I can get my money back. Fingers crossed.


----------



## Clexzor

Lol well you just made me not want to get one


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> I bought the Qnix monitor from http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ because of their return policy, that you can return the monitor for any reason for free. The monitor arrived from South Korea so I am guessing they just order from ebay sellers and have it directly shipped to the buyer. The monitor came looking like it's been taken out. There are fingerprints on the frame and the plastic film looks like it has been removed and reapplied. I figured maybe because the seller took out the monitor to test for dead pixels before shipping it.
> 
> However, there are very noticeable backlight bleeding, so I decided to return it the very next day. I ordered the monitor on 9/13, it arrived on the 9/18, I asked for a return shipping label the very next day, but they didn't email me one until the end of the day on 9/20. It shouldn't be a problem as they stated a 30 day return period, right? Well that is what was stated on their return policy at the time I place the order. Here come's the fishy part: they changed the return policy soon after I asked for a refund.
> 
> Here is the current return policy : https://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Articles.asp?ID=3
> 
> Here is return policy at the time I place my order :
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how they changed the return period from 30 to 14 days and added that last statement at the end where you aren't suppose to remove the factory shrink wrap (like I said mine looks like the film has been removed and reapplied).
> 
> I returned the monitor on Monday and it should arrive on Friday, which is exacatly 14 days from the day I place the order.
> 
> I did some digging and found that these people also sell other things from Korea like dashcam and door locks.
> 
> http://www.electricdoorlockshop.com/return-information_a/251.htm
> 
> http://www.blackvuecamera.com/blackvue-camera-returns_a/255.htm
> 
> Notice for the other 2 products they are selling the return period is still 30 days.
> 
> Doesn't this seem fishy to anyone else or am I being paranoid?
> 
> Let's just hope that I can get my money back. Fingers crossed.


They changed their policy because too many ppl were abusing it (ordering multiple - picking the best, returning the rest). Any orders placed prior should be fine (free, no questions asked) but after that..i believe its $50?

How bad was the BLB? Was well did it overclock? Were there any dead/bright/stuck/pixels? Any uniformity issues while OC'd? Image Retention happening?

Cuz BLB is actually pretty easy to fix - id keep it if it OC'd well and had no other issues.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> So I got this at 2am EST from ipsledmonitors.com.
> Didn't realize they were doing any type of QC before shipping, assuming he's not just blowin smoke up my arse


Quote:
Thank you for placing your order. Would you be willing to receive a QNIX
QX2710LED monitor instead of the X-star DP2710LED. They are both made by the
same manufacturer, have the same panel, bezel, and technical specs. Side by
side they are identical monitors other than the logo.

The reason for this is the manufacturer has stopped producing the X-star
brand. We inspected our last remaining stock and they were not in a
condition we would want to ship to our customers.

We apologize for any inconvenience and appreciate your business.
Thank you

Got the exact same email from them at the same time as well.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> Quote:
> Thank you for placing your order. Would you be willing to receive a QNIX
> QX2710LED monitor instead of the X-star DP2710LED. They are both made by the
> same manufacturer, have the same panel, bezel, and technical specs. Side by
> side they are identical monitors other than the logo.
> 
> The reason for this is the manufacturer has stopped producing the X-star
> brand. We inspected our last remaining stock and they were not in a
> condition we would want to ship to our customers.
> 
> We apologize for any inconvenience and appreciate your business.
> Thank you
> 
> Got the exact same email from them at the same time as well.


just got an invoice for the QNIX.

I have a gut feeling that these final orders are going to be the garbage that people who bought multiple to only pick one returned.


----------



## driedupfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> So I got this at 2am EST from ipsledmonitors.com.
> Didn't realize they were doing any type of QC before shipping, assuming he's not just blowin smoke up my arse


I don't think IPSLEDMONITOR do any kind of QC themselves as the one I have ordered came directly from South Korea. Also, when I asked for an exchange (which was only a couple days ago) they told me that there is no more Qnix in stock.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> I don't think IPSLEDMONITOR do any kind of QC themselves as the one I have ordered came directly from South Korea. Also, when I asked for an exchange (which was only a couple days ago) they told me that there is no more Qnix in stock.


Lol, well that doesnt make me feel any better. Either another shipment came in, or the QNIX im getting is a return.

And its hard not to believe that they QC some of their items, especially after them blatantly saying they "checked" their remaining inventory, and it wasnt up to par. That implies that they opened them out and tested some out. Who knows though.


----------



## paulkon

I think they're just sending out the monitors people returned to them. I was going to buy from them but held off because I wasn't sure when they changed their return policy. Now I'm definitely not going to order from them after they've pulled these stunts.


----------



## Clexzor

Anyone?? wanted to see if that's a legit one

Hey all couple questions if anyone could share some knowledge.

Currently using a pb278 2560x1440 60hz great monitor really love it couipled with my gtx 780 @ 1254mhz

I was looking to pick one of these up and use my pb278 for my workstation. Im really liking the fact that you can possibly OC above 80hz.

However im hearing folks are getting image retention when overclocking. Is that something that can be fixed manually or just luck of the draw?

Was looking to get this one http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00BUI6S3Y/ref=pd_cp_pc_1

Also would the difrence be that much? If not id prly shell out for a vewsonic instead.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

The image retention generally goes away on it's own if you see any at all.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> I think they're just sending out the monitors people returned to them. I was going to buy from them but held off because I wasn't sure when they changed their return policy. Now I'm definitely not going to order from them after they've pulled these stunts.


i doubt it, mine arrived new in box. same with a lot of posters.

also notice they have a clearance section with open box:
http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/category-s/1833.htm

my guess is too many people were returning monitors for free trying to get a "perfect one" some have indicated.


----------



## RandySavage

I'm about to buy one of these for a new rig. Did the compatibility issues with the Nvidia drivers get resolved? I'm presently planning on going for a 780...

Also curious about the image retention issues w/ overclocking and any improvements of different models as asked by the poster above me.


----------



## Clexzor

Hope it works with my 780 just bought the glossy one from ecomade arena. See how it turns out.


----------



## Roybattius

Has anybody in the states got a letter from FEDEx about an import duty charge? I thought we had a free trade agreement with S. Korea and we weren't supposed to get that. If fedex is wrong, do you just call them up and say they made a mistake?


----------



## jerrolds

Yes i believe so - freaking Fedex, youd think theyd know this. Just another cash grab.


----------



## Clexzor

Yea just bought mine from ecomade arena hope it goods got the perfect pixel modle for 368 even though I hear it still can have a couple but shouldn't be a big deal long as it overcloks lol

oph and yes just call fedex and complain they will remove or drop the charge. Because you shouldn't be charged anything extra from s korea.


----------



## Clexzor

Quick question I don't think mine comes with an 220w adapter any have a recom. adapoter they are using?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roybattius*
> 
> Has anybody in the states got a letter from FEDEx about an import duty charge? I thought we had a free trade agreement with S. Korea and we weren't supposed to get that. If fedex is wrong, do you just call them up and say they made a mistake?


Was it dream-seller? These only come from Fed Ex for whatever reason. Either a particular seller is not paying some export fee or something or Fed ex is somehow diff than other carriers. Yes technically there should be no duty owed by buyer as we understand it due to free trade agreement plus the majority of US buyers just get theirs no fee no hassle.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> Yea just bought mine from ecomade arena hope it goods got the perfect pixel modle for 368 even though I hear it still can have a couple but shouldn't be a big deal long as it overcloks lol
> 
> oph and yes just call fedex and complain they will remove or drop the charge. Because you shouldn't be charged anything extra from s korea.


I just called to dispute and they said I need a "certificate of origin" and wouldn't waive the fee, I was charged $20.45. They said if the shipper can provide it they can waive the charge. FedEx says they have no way of knowing if it was manufactured in S.K. Looks like there is a way to dispute it on the back and re-bill the shipper but IDK if that will work.

I used dream-seller.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Interesting...it really sounds like DS is not doing something other sellers are (or perhaps using a cheaper shipping option?) but also now that maybe it's not money-related which I would otherwise assume. However I can also say with essential certainty that not every DS buyer has had to deal with this. But you are def not the first either.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Still safe to buy an X-Star with whats happened the page before? Does X-Star VS Qnix matter?


----------



## mudzi

People complaining about a 20 dollars fee? I had to pay 25% of the screen extra


----------



## Roybattius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> People complaining about a 20 dollars fee? I had to pay 25% of the screen extra


The point is there shouldn't be any import duty.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes. You live in Sweden. Apples to oranges. But all in all $20 really isn't worth getting bent out of shape over outside of the principle of it.

Said it before, will say once again--DS is to be avoided.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Said it before, will say once again--DS is to be avoided.


Who would you use?


----------



## jerrolds

I've used accesorieswhole and greensum - both have been fine. FedEx and DHL used respectively to Canada if that matters.


----------



## AznCQ

Why are people still using dream-seller......

Highly recommend greensum


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Price difference between the sellers is quite a bit. Acessorieswhole Qnix £210, green-sum £225. I cant see any difference in the listings to warrant a £15 jump to green-sum, other than it coming with a '110-240V Adapter', I can't see the Acessorieswhole one saying it does, but living in the UK I don't think I need it (?). I do notice Acessorieswhole has a 3 dead pixel limit compared to the usual 5 though.

ta_planet X-Star (which I'm tempted to use because they said they don't accurately mark its value for customs) is £206, Acessorieswhole X-Star is £223.

What do I go with? Also is it just me or does Acessorieswhole list the same monitor a thousand times with no differences at all in the listing?


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Also is it just me or does Acessorieswhole list the same monitor a thousand times with no differences at all in the listing?


You're correct. In fact many sellers list the same monitor multiple times with different prices to create a false dilemma in the customer's mind. If the customer goes for the higher priced item then it's just more profit for them.

Qnix probably buys these panels from Samsung at $100. Sell it to these resellers for $200. Then the resellers start sell it at $250 and up. Now the average price is at $320 I think.


----------



## Massive17

I just had a bad experience with accesorieswhole.

Ordered a Glossy X-Star. He told me I would have 2 wait a week. I was fine with that. He kept pushing the QNIX even though I told him I wasn't interested MANY times.
He told me he would ship after a Korean Holiday. I had to keep asking him because 2 weeks had gone by. He just replied that he doesn't have any and asked if I wanted a QNIZ AGAIN. After I said no, he said he would give me a Glossy X-Star for $30 extra because it had HDMI (which I don't need). I'm just upset cause this whole time he knew he didn't have any and kept wasting my time and trying to push the QNIX.

Does anyone know of any sellers that have the X-Star (glossy) in stock?

I already have an X-star so that's why I don't want a QNIX. If there is no other choice but to get a QNIX, then I will have to debezel them so they match.


----------



## Clexzor

For anyone looking for top of line DVI cables Grefen makes the best in fact they support 4k on the 15ft or less one you pay though.
We use these at work are excellent quality and shielding nothing better.

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dcable.jsp?prod_id=5402


----------



## Roybattius

So the first QNX I got from greensum was DOA. (s)he wanted to blame it on DHL. The second one I got is from IPSLEDMonitors doesn't have any dead pixels as far as I can see. So I can't recommend greensum, but it's all a crapshoot and they're all probably the same when it comes to trying to not pay for return shipping.

Previously I would have highly recommended IPSLEDMonitors even if they cost a bit more because of their customer service. The one I got from them was packed much, much better than the one from greensum, so just from that aspect I would expect less DOAs from IPSLED. But the last email I sent them about the fedex situation went unanswered, so i'm thinking about testing the waters with another seller for my second one.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> I just had a bad experience with accesorieswhole.
> 
> Ordered a Glossy X-Star. He told me I would have 2 wait a week. I was fine with that. He kept pushing the QNIX even though I told him I wasn't interested MANY times.
> He told me he would ship after a Korean Holiday. I had to keep asking him because 2 weeks had gone by. He just replied that he doesn't have any and asked if I wanted a QNIZ AGAIN. After I said no, he said he would give me a Glossy X-Star for $30 extra because it had HDMI (which I don't need). I'm just upset cause this whole time he knew he didn't have any and kept wasting my time and trying to push the QNIX.
> 
> Does anyone know of any sellers that have the X-Star (glossy) in stock?
> 
> I already have an X-star so that's why I don't want a QNIX. If there is no other choice but to get a QNIX, then I will have to debezel them so they match.


Wow thats pretty OCD







The only difference between the 2 that i know of is the logo, easy fix would be to sand and paint over the bezel (unless you really like glossy bezels). But with 2 27" panels - i wouldve personally debezelled them anyways.


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roybattius*
> 
> So the first QNX I got from greensum was DOA. (s)he wanted to blame it on DHL. The second one I got is from IPSLEDMonitors doesn't have any dead pixels as far as I can see. So I can't recommend greensum, but it's all a crapshoot and they're all probably the same when it comes to trying to not pay for return shipping.
> 
> Previously I would have highly recommended IPSLEDMonitors even if they cost a bit more because of their customer service. The one I got from them was packed much, much better than the one from greensum, so just from that aspect I would expect less DOAs from IPSLED. But the last email I sent them about the fedex situation went unanswered, so i'm thinking about testing the waters with another seller for my second one.


What was the fedex situation? Also, did you see any clouding or other issues when overclocked? I'm thinking about buying from ipsled mainly because of the peace of mind of the return policy.


----------



## Massive17

Yea, I guess I'm OCD









I want to make sure my monitors match.

It appears that everyone is running out of X-stars (glossy).

Does anyone know of any sellers in California that sell these?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Wow thats pretty OCD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only difference between the 2 that i know of is the logo, easy fix would be to sand and paint over the bezel (unless you really like glossy bezels). But with 2 27" panels - i wouldve personally debezelled them anyways.


----------



## mcsmgs

Just unwrapped my QX2710 from AccesoriesWhole. I found no dead pixels after a quick background test. Back light is even except some light bleed at the lower right part of the panel. Let's see what OC I get out of this unit. Will post the results shortly


----------



## dseg

Seems like the sellers of these screens are either running out or shipping returned monitors.
Also looks like a lot of people are abusing www.ipsledmonitors.com's return policy.


----------



## driedupfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Seems like the sellers of these screens are either running out or shipping returned monitors.
> Also looks like a lot of people are abusing www.ipsledmonitors.com's return policy.


People here are saying that some people are abusing the return policy. Here is the thing, they don't refund the shipping, which is $20. So I wouldn't say people are returning it for reasons that are trivia. If I can live with the backlight bleeding, I would. Because otherwise I return the monitor and I still lost $20.


----------



## paulkon

I still don't understand why ipsledmonitors charges a "shipping cost" when all the sellers ship from S. Korea for free. I guess that's part of their profit.


----------



## Roybattius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> I still don't understand why ipsledmonitors charges a "shipping cost" when all the sellers ship from S. Korea for free. I guess that's part of their profit.


The "shipping cost" isn't really a shipping cost. It's really about having your reseller here in the states and having good customer support, so you pay $60 extra. I had really good emails with Kyle at ipsled. For example, after my DOA from greensum, and getting my second monitor, my video card still wasn't driving the monitor propertly. He didn't really solve the problem for me, but he was good at responding to me and getting me to come up with new ideas.

The packaging that whoever in Korea is doing for ipsled was far superior to the packaging I received from greensum. Greensum's qnix had bubble wrap on the outside, but just the cardboard stuff and some paper in the inside, where ipsled's packaging was the cardboard box was roughed up from the trip from Korea, but the inside was so tight that I had to have my son's babysitter hold the box while I removed it from the box. It was that tight.

At the end of the day, it's a crap shoot anyway. My first one from greensum was DOA, and I had to eventually to do a chargeback on the credit card before (s)he would pay for the shipping costs.


----------



## junkrok

wow, some really naive people in this thread.

As someone who worked in retail, i can say some customers will take advantage of anything. I actually worked at best buy and the day after the super bowl there was a line of people with returning TVs they "rented" from us.

look at REI/Costco people will return things for any reason, they are now changing their policy. even if they lose a small amount to them it is worth it for the time. it's no wonder grade A panels are not widely available here like they are in korea.

also, i'm pretty sure it's not free to ship things from korea? ya think maybe that is built in their cost?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> wow, some really naive people in this thread.
> 
> As someone who worked in retail, i can say some customers will take advantage of anything. I actually worked at best buy and the day after the super bowl there was a line of people with returning TVs they "rented" from us.
> 
> look at REI/Costco people will return things for any reason, they are now changing their policy. even if they lose a small amount to them it is worth it for the time. it's no wonder grade A panels are not widely available here like they are in korea.
> 
> also, i'm pretty sure it's not free to ship things from korea? ya think maybe that is built in their cost?


Agreed on all counts

I have experienced several similar situations and honestly people who will take advantage and cause excessive unwarranted returns shot the rest of us in the foot as it will in the end push prices up.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Agreed on all counts
> 
> I have experienced several similar situations and honestly people who will take advantage and cause excessive unwarranted returns shot the rest of us in the foot as it will in the end push prices up.


I used to be a manager at Radio Shack. You cant image the amount of big screen TVs we sold during Super Bowl weekend to get them back "because it was not as good as they expected" the next week.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

Anybody know why I'm entering test mode when I start up Halo 1? Any tips to fix this?


----------



## haralla

Did post earlier but didn't get a reply. I am a bit of a noob when it comes to these screens...

I live in Seoul at the moment and went down to the area where they are selling all of these monitors. There doesn't seem to be much buzz about this particular monitor here as no one actually knew the model number I was looking for. They had to go look it up on their computer systems to see if they had stock. To buy direct from here the price is around $270.

I bought one and have it all set up and overclocked to 120mhz with no problems. However, there is 1 dead pixel and some BLB. How bad is it on my copy? I can definitely return it for free and get another as they accept returns for any dead pixels. Just wondering if I should bother or not since I do live near the shop even though it manages to overclock perfectly. Advice please....picture attached


----------



## paulkon

Is that display a completely black screen?

Also, just curious, do they sell any 4K screens there?


----------



## haralla

Yes completely black from a dead pixel tester. They do sell 4k but it's not cheap


----------



## Xentar712

So now that my return is over, I'd like to share my experience so hopefully it won't get repeated. I originally bought a glossy panel from green-sum on 8/22 and it arrived at my door 8/26. The panel worked ok, had a little BLB and a dead pixel. It had a defect in the top middle where there was a dark spot(clouding I suppose). The panel was also a tempered glass model and not a glossy one.

After two days, I woke up to see my glass fall off it's mount

Of course at this point I requested a return. After a day, the seller insisted that the monitor was damaged during shipment and wished to have UPS pick the package up to inspect it. There was no visible damage on the package, so I think she just filed a claim to see what happens. Unfortunately, UPS never contacted me, so I had to contact them and initiate it myself. The package was finally picked up on 9/5(I requested the RMA on 8/28). Note that I've been in contact with the seller this whole time, but she only responds once a day - it's very frustrating to communicate with someone only once a day. I had to make my messages count and a few times I never got questions answered.

I'm assuming UPS inspected it quickly because the package was immediately returned to the sender. By 9/7 it was in Korean customs. It literally sat in customs until 9/11 until green-sum provided her phone number to clear it. Then it was put on hold for a customs invoice to clear duty relief! That lasted until 9/16! On 9/17 it was finally delivered back to green-sum. But wait, there's more...

The seller contacted me on 9/18 to let me know that my replacement was going to be shipped...after Korean Thanksgiving(Nooo!). Not the end of the world I guess. I already waited so long, what's a few more days. Then Monday rolls around(this week). Instead of getting a tracking number like I expected, I get an email saying they are out of stock of glossy monitors. Apparently, everyone is out of glossy monitors but they still show them in stock and ship tempered glass in it's place. She didn't think I would notice the first time which is why it wasn't mentioned until now. My choices were matte or tempered glass. I chose tempered glass again. My thoughts were, if the glass fell off again or annoyed me, I would take it off like others have. Amazingly enough, it was shipped the 25th and arrived at my doorstep early this afternoon.

Opened it and am using it now. No BLB! Wow! At first I thought I had 2 dead pixels but I determined it was dust specks between the glass and screen. Best way to tell this is to put the "pixel" inside a tiny circle in paint. Then change viewing angles left to right. If the pixel moves outside the circle, it's dust. So no dead pixels either. OC'ed it to 120Hz right away(now using the cable from Amazon that someone mentioned a few pages back). My only complaint is there is some weird light clouding that can be seen at bootup with a black screen. After all this, I seriously don't care, as it can only be seen with a black screen.

In hindsight, if I knew this was going to be so painfully long beforehand, I would have fixed it myself. My glass could have easily been removed and that dark spot probably could have been fixed but cleaning between the screen layers(as someone else previously showed with an iMac video). I'm glad things eventually worked out but that was a long process. Most of the issues stem from the fact I could only communicate with the seller once a day. I only have a week left on my eBay buyer protection and I've only gotten to use this monitor <4 days total. Hope this helps someone in the future.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haralla*
> 
> Did post earlier but didn't get a reply. I am a bit of a noob when it comes to these screens...
> 
> I live in Seoul at the moment and went down to the area where they are selling all of these monitors. There doesn't seem to be much buzz about this particular monitor here as no one actually knew the model number I was looking for. They had to go look it up on their computer systems to see if they had stock. To buy direct from here the price is around $270.
> 
> I bought one and have it all set up and overclocked to 120mhz with no problems. However, there is 1 dead pixel and some BLB. How bad is it on my copy? I can definitely return it for free and get another as they accept returns for any dead pixels. Just wondering if I should bother or not since I do live near the shop even though it manages to overclock perfectly. Advice please....picture attached


That BLB honestly isnt that bad - im thinking thats 100% brightness? You have some at the middle top, and left corner - you may be able to fix it without taking out the metal frame by jamming some pieces of paper between the front frame and behind bezel (so that it presses against the frame)

Youll know what i mean if you use your thumbs to press down on the bezel.


----------



## haralla

so considering it overclocks to 120mhz you reckon it is worth just keeping? TBH I can't even see the dead pixel from normal viewing distance


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haralla*
> 
> so considering it overclocks to 120mhz you reckon it is worth just keeping? TBH I can't even see the dead pixel from normal viewing distance


Yup definitely - how does it look at normal brightness? Mine takes 30 clicks to get from 0 -> 100% and i keep it about 7 clicks from 0% at night, and 12-15ish during the day. Go ahead and fire up a dark game and see if the BLB gets in the way, just sit at least a couple feet back to make sure its not IPS Glow.

Splinter Cell for me, was unplayable until i fixed it up by bending the frame/using paper inserts (tape mod was not neccessary for me - as it was the frame adding uneven pressure to the panel)


----------



## Roybattius

Mine is at 100hz right now. Had problems at 110 hz. Just don't care. It has no dead pixels and a great panel


----------



## Roybattius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haralla*
> 
> so considering it overclocks to 120mhz you reckon it is worth just keeping? TBH I can't even see the dead pixel from normal viewing distance


What games are you playing that it impacts you at 120 hz vs 96 hz or whatever? Dead pixels are another matter.


----------



## paulkon

Ok, so I wasn't able to get past the black framed bracket-like diffuser that lies underneath the LCD. Has anyone determined where there might be some clips or tiny hidden screws which are holding the bracket? I doubt that I have to use an unreasonable amount of prying force to get it to pop out.

Unfortunately, although the videos are very helpful, the actual removal of the bracket was skipped over since the next video just shows it off the panel assembly on the side.


----------



## JSK23

My Qnix matte came from IPSLED today. Im using the Asus ICC recommended in the first post.

First impressions, wow, this is glorious. I don't believe I have any stuck pixels. I did a quick scan, but will go over it with a fine tooth comb later on.

The good news is 120hz seems to work just fine? I created a custom profile in the Nvidia control panel and that was all I had to do. No CRU, no nothing. I used the web frame skip test, and with little else running I get the Valid/green sign. Counter Strike GO seemed to run just fine at 120hz too. The tint does seem to dim every so slightly, hardly noticeable when I go from 60hz to 120hz. If I were to show someone who wasn't staring at it for 20 minutes, they probably couldn't even tell. So I guess its fine?


That is my black light bleed. I think because of my camera the picture makes it look a tad bit worse than it actually is.

Is that bad? Return worthy? Or since I seem to hit 120hz just deal with it or try the paper fix or remove the bezel? I do have a new stand on the way so I will be taking it apart at least partially sometime early next week.

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> you may be able to fix it without taking out the metal frame by jamming some pieces of paper between the front frame and behind bezel (so that it presses against the frame)
> 
> Youll know what i mean if you use your thumbs to press down on the bezel.


Are there directions somewhere on exactly how to do this? Should I try it?


----------



## junkrok

eh, that doesn't look bad at all. maybe try loosening the screws in the back?


----------



## Kuudere

I think I might have lucked out, I've been playing around with the two I ordered for a few hours now, and they're both in great shape. No dead/stuck pixels for the moment (though I haven't done a through test, I don't really want to) and no obvious backlight bleed either, but again I haven't fully tested/examined.

I'm actually fairly surprised that they worked easily, just plugged in and powered up without issue, hopefully they don't catch fire on me in a few weeks...


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JSK23*
> 
> My Qnix matte came from IPSLED today. Im using the Asus ICC recommended in the first post.
> 
> First impressions, wow, this is glorious. I don't believe I have any stuck pixels. I did a quick scan, but will go over it with a fine tooth comb later on.
> 
> The good news is 120hz seems to work just fine? I created a custom profile in the Nvidia control panel and that was all I had to do. No CRU, no nothing. I used the web frame skip test, and with little else running I get the Valid/green sign. Counter Strike GO seemed to run just fine at 120hz too. The tint does seem to dim every so slightly, hardly noticeable when I go from 60hz to 120hz. If I were to show someone who wasn't staring at it for 20 minutes, they probably couldn't even tell. So I guess its fine?
> 
> 
> That is my black light bleed. I think because of my camera the picture makes it look a tad bit worse than it actually is.
> 
> Is that bad? Return worthy? Or since I seem to hit 120hz just deal with it or try the paper fix or remove the bezel? I do have a new stand on the way so I will be taking it apart at least partially sometime early next week.
> 
> Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!
> 
> Are there directions somewhere on exactly how to do this? Should I try it?


That BLB isnt bad, isnt perfect either - i dont think loosening the screws will help but you can try it. If you look at my previous post http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/6940#post_20803131 you can see where i put paper inserts inbetween the bezel and the frame to put pressure on the panel which removed the BLB.

With the cover still on - i pressed on the bezel using my thumbs to guage where the best places to put them, marked them with tape. Removed the bezel and folded up pieces of paper and put them in the right places. Put the bezel back on and it helped alot.

If that still doesnt work - you may have to take the metal frame out and straighten it, theres videos on the front page for that. Just be careful, you pry the little inside latches off the hinges and the bezel should come off with a bit of work.


----------



## Coldplayer

Anyone know what the default brightness is like how many clicks from the lowest on the QNIX. just not sure what brightness to set it too before calibrating.


----------



## CrazyAsian

Would it be possible to replace the stand with something like this?

If so, do you need screws? A mounting bracket? How does it work? =P

Also, first time poster =D


----------



## $ilent

Hi guys, I got my QX2710 this morning from green-sum.

The monito comes with:

1x MOSTCN switching adapter, which has a small circle plug and an inlet for a 3-pin PSU cable
1x 3 pin to USA plug
1x headphone jack
1x DVI cable

As a UK user whos househould has 3 pin plugs, how do I set this thing up? Do I need to use this switching adapter thing or can I just put my current 1080 3 pin plug into this monitor and plug that straight into the socket in the wall?


----------



## arvidab

Just use a "PSU" cable which fit into your wall socket and plug it in the switching power brick. C13/C14 is what the plug is called.


----------



## jojoenglish85

I tried to use PSLED and the website starts freaking out when i try to check out lol. With the x-star is it possible for me to connect it to my video card via the second dvi-i port since my main monitor is already using the dvi-d port with the cable that comes with the x-star monitor?


----------



## $ilent

cheers arvida I got it sorted









My monitor looks great, just did a dead pixel check. I have 1 pixel that is grey against a white background, is that dead or stuck? Whats the difference?

Also thank God for this tilting stand, I was sat looking at my monitor with it angled back like 30 degree thinking oh I cant keep using this can I? then noticed it tilts...lol


----------



## mcsmgs

Ok, After a late night trying to overclock my QX2710 i've had mixed results.

I am using Windows 8.1 RTM and ATI Radeon HD 4850. However there is no official Catalyst drivers for the HD 4000 series anymore (Thanks ATI). I had to use a modded 12.11 BETA Catalyst driver.
After a long round of installing and un-installing drivers I finally managed to get CCC loaded and the drivers recognized.

I've patched the drivers with the ATI patcher just fine but the CRU have mixed results. I only managed to get CRU to show 80hz on CCC and the windows resolution panel. However if I add anything above 80hz it wont show up at all.

Does that mean that it is as far as it goes in terms of overclocking? I assumed that you could get higher frequencies to at least show up even if the monitor rejected the refresh rate.

Have I missed something in the process?


----------



## jojoenglish85

Thats probably as far as you can overclock it then.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Hi guys, I got my QX2710 this morning from green-sum.
> 
> The monito comes with:
> 
> 1x MOSTCN switching adapter, which has a small circle plug and an inlet for a 3-pin PSU cable
> 1x 3 pin to USA plug
> 1x headphone jack
> 1x DVI cable
> 
> As a UK user whos househould has 3 pin plugs, how do I set this thing up? Do I need to use this switching adapter thing or can I just put my current 1080 3 pin plug into this monitor and plug that straight into the socket in the wall?


Willing to share how much you paid at customs? I'm in the UK and a bit concerned. Apparently green-sum marks it as a gift, so not much, but they say they have had times where customs have stuck a random value on it.


----------



## Woned

I recieved my monitor last night from AccessoriesWhole, came with no dead pixels and mininal BLB (not enough to warrant opening it up)

Gotta wait till I upgrade my 570 to start trying to overclock it, but all in all, I got lucky! (except the 61$ customs fee)


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcsmgs*
> 
> Ok, After a late night trying to overclock my QX2710 i've had mixed results.
> 
> I am using Windows 8.1 RTM and ATI Radeon HD 4850. However there is no official Catalyst drivers for the HD 4000 series anymore (Thanks ATI). I had to use a modded 12.11 BETA Catalyst driver.
> After a long round of installing and un-installing drivers I finally managed to get CCC loaded and the drivers recognized.
> 
> I've patched the drivers with the ATI patcher just fine but the CRU have mixed results. I only managed to get CRU to show 80hz on CCC and the windows resolution panel. However if I add anything above 80hz it wont show up at all.
> 
> Does that mean that it is as far as it goes in terms of overclocking? I assumed that you could get higher frequencies to at least show up even if the monitor rejected the refresh rate.
> 
> Have I missed something in the process?


IMO, I think the GPU is holding you back. You need more GDDR ram and bus speed. 2GB is recommended, I think that card only has 512MB, right?


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Willing to share how much you paid at customs? I'm in the UK and a bit concerned. Apparently green-sum marks it as a gift, so not much, but they say they have had times where customs have stuck a random value on it.


Yeah it was about £46 I think, I didnt speak to green-sum so I dont know about that marking it as gift stuff comes from lol. I think its about right that, I got stuff before that was more expensive and I think it was like £50-£60.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Thanks.


----------



## $ilent

When Ive had stuff shipped over its always ended up about 20% of the price is added on for import tax and the other duties.


----------



## mcsmgs

I see. shouldn't you be able to see higher refresh rates even if your monitor don't support it? 80hz is nice but the majority of of qnix and x-star owners are managing 96hz at least. I will try on a nvidia with official drivers and see if I get anything better.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcsmgs*
> 
> I see. shouldn't you be able to see higher refresh rates even if your monitor don't support it? 80hz is nice but the majority of of qnix and x-star owners are managing 96hz at least. I will try on a nvidia with official drivers and see if I get anything better.


I've always had weird luck with the CCC and the drivers. Def try a Nvidia card, what card is it? And also is there an option to show unsupported refresh rates in CCC (just taking a guess) ?

I've read if your monitor cannot handle the overclock you will get a black screen, and if you get static lines its prob the GPU or the cable. Not sure about why the higher than 80hz are not showing at all though. I'm sure there is a CCC guru that will pop in at any moment..


----------



## $ilent

Anyone got any favourite 1440 wallpapers? Been on a few sites, but none of the wallpapers seem "sharp" just big actual pictures. I was looking at something like ocean or space.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Anyone got any favourite 1440 wallpapers? Been on a few sites, but none of the wallpapers seem "sharp" just big actual pictures. I was looking at something like ocean or space.


I like this site:

http://interfacelift.com/wallpaper/downloads/date/widescreen/2560x1440/


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcsmgs*
> 
> Ok, After a late night trying to overclock my QX2710 i've had mixed results.
> 
> I am using Windows 8.1 RTM and ATI Radeon HD 4850. However there is no official Catalyst drivers for the HD 4000 series anymore (Thanks ATI). I had to use a modded 12.11 BETA Catalyst driver.
> After a long round of installing and un-installing drivers I finally managed to get CCC loaded and the drivers recognized.
> 
> I've patched the drivers with the ATI patcher just fine but the CRU have mixed results. I only managed to get CRU to show 80hz on CCC and the windows resolution panel. However if I add anything above 80hz it wont show up at all.
> 
> Does that mean that it is as far as it goes in terms of overclocking? I assumed that you could get higher frequencies to at least show up even if the monitor rejected the refresh rate.
> 
> Have I missed something in the process?


Are you adding other custom resolutions? Like 2650x1080? cuz i found that if you have mixed resolutions with different refresh rates, only 1 of them will show up. For example

[email protected]
[email protected] - when you change to this resolution, you only see the 120hz selectable 144hz is gone - until i make a [email protected] setting.

Other than that you should have at least have them selectable, it may not work, but it should be selectable. I know ive had up to 144hz in CRU and it shows up as a selectable resolution.


----------



## Woned

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Anyone got any favourite 1440 wallpapers? Been on a few sites, but none of the wallpapers seem "sharp" just big actual pictures. I was looking at something like ocean or space.


I suggest 4walled.org


----------



## mcsmgs

Maybe is the fact I have a weird combination of things. My CCC and drivers are from a older 12.11 BETA version since is the only drivers I managed to install on my windows 8.1 machine. The fact that there will be no more CCC drivers in windows 8.1 for ATI HD 4000 series doesn't help.


----------



## mcsmgs

No. I am adding only supported resolutions (2560x1440). I've managed to get both windows and CCC to show up to 84hz( LCD Reduced) which the monitor supports. anything above [email protected] simply don't show up anywhere after I restart.

That's what is bugging me. they don't show up at all regardless whether my monitor support it or not. From which version of CCC gives you the choice to display EDID not supported on the resolution list?

Should I start considering a better cable even though I think is unlikely the case?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Anyone got any favourite 1440 wallpapers? Been on a few sites, but none of the wallpapers seem "sharp" just big actual pictures. I was looking at something like ocean or space.


Most of the ones I found seemed to be smaller images upscaled (badly) to 1440p. I just found an image I liked, found the original (on deviantart) and upscaled it myself (with photoshop) to 1440p. I'd suggest doing the same unless you can find something where the original is truly 1440p (or above).


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcsmgs*
> 
> No. I am adding only supported resolutions (2560x1440). I've managed to get both windows and CCC to show up to 84hz( LCD Reduced) which the monitor supports. anything above [email protected] simply don't show up anywhere after I restart.
> 
> That's what is bugging me. they don't show up at all regardless whether my monitor support it or not. From which version of CCC gives you the choice to display EDID not supported on the resolution list?
> 
> Should I start considering a better cable even though I think is unlikely the case?


No not yet..i would uninstall/reinstall your drivers, at which point will blow out your patched pixel clock. Re-run Toastys patcher and start fresh. If you tried installing custom monitor drivers, id uninstall them too. My CrossOver/Tempest/QNIX were all the default "Dual Link DVI" or something, whatever the generic 1440p monitor drivers are.


----------



## biggyk

hey all,

I had a look at the first page regarding duty costs to Canada and I see the one person did not have to pay duty. However, I do see here and there people in Canada had to pay. Can anyone confirm? Do we not have a free trade agreement with SK?


----------



## jerrolds

We (Canada) dont have free trade with Korea afaik - i had to pay about $35 for my QNIX for duty, Accessorieswhole put a $200 value on the package.


----------



## biggyk

Your sure that not just tax?

I used a few duty calculators and it does show duty at 0 when selecting computer monitor from sk.

Either way I want to pull the trigger on one.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Anyone got any favourite 1440 wallpapers? Been on a few sites, but none of the wallpapers seem "sharp" just big actual pictures. I was looking at something like ocean or space.


There are links in the OP and I have a great collection form them that some other guy posted that I put in a 7z file.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=89ACA07250424A4E!210&authkey=!AONzQ87EFOJoY7w


----------



## Cookybiscuit

About to pull the trigger on a Qnix from accessorieswhole, before I do, just want to make sure theres no difference at all in build quality or oc-ability of the Qnix and X-Star?


----------



## $ilent

How much cookie? Dont you fancy an ebay job?







Also from the first post, "They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability."

Also to current QX2710 owners, do any of you have to unplug your monitor power every time you use it? I heard its not a good idea to put the monitor into standbye mode when not using it?


----------



## jerrolds

I've owned 3 different korean ips, and i left them plugged in 24x7 ..altho i dont put it on standby, i do try and turn it off...i just dont unplug it.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I've owned 3 different korean ips, and i left them plugged in 24x7 ..altho i dont put it on standby, i do try and turn it off...i just dont unplug it.


Im confused, my monitor has a power button you press it monitor goes off but orange button stays on. Is this its standby mode, or does it go into standby mode where the monitor goes off by itself after like 20 minutes or something?


----------



## jerrolds

Actually ..im not sure...if i press the power button, i think the orange LED is always on. Standby i think is a blinking blue led, at least thats what happens when power on my computer and wait for BIOS to show up.

Orange = Off
Blinking Blue = Standby (waiting for signal)
Sold Blue = image shown


----------



## valtopps

well I got my x-star today zero pixels but theres some blb on top but very little. I was scared that some people where getting a charge from fedex but I didn't.
ive been asking for about a week now and no one knew, I was asking about an amd apu (5800k) would work on a 1440p monitor. the answer is yes!!!

my monitor is set to 2560x1440 60hz. works good. I even played bf2 demo but the video options didn't have 1440? not sure if its my apu or the game.
I also bought a asus gtx 760 thinking the apu wouldn't work with the monitor, ill guess I plug it in when it arrives and see if I can get bf2 demo to 1440.
the problem with 2650x1440 everything is so tiny ( text, icons ect) how do I fix this problem?

next I have to learn how to dim this monitor its pretty bright.
any help would be appreciated


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Actually ..im not sure...if i press the power button, i think the orange LED is always on. Standby i think is a blinking blue led, at least thats what happens when power on my computer and wait for BIOS to show up.
> 
> Orange = Off
> Blinking Blue = Standby (waiting for signal)
> Sold Blue = image shown


Cool so its ok to leave it on orange? I have been unplugging it from the power brick otherwise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> the problem with 2650x1440 everything is so tiny ( text, icons ect) how do I fix this problem?


Which text, icons? On windows or on your internet browser?


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> well I got my x-star today zero pixels but theres some blb on top but very little. I was scared that some people where getting a charge from fedex but I didn't.
> ive been asking for about a week now and no one knew, I was asking about an amd apu (5800k) would work on a 1440p monitor. the answer is yes!!!
> 
> my monitor is set to 2560x1440 60hz. works good. I even played bf2 demo but the video options didn't have 1440? not sure if its my apu or the game.
> I also bought a asus gtx 760 thinking the apu wouldn't work with the monitor, ill guess I plug it in when it arrives and see if I can get bf2 demo to 1440.
> the problem with 2650x1440 everything is so tiny ( text, icons ect) how do I fix this problem?
> 
> next I have to learn how to dim this monitor its pretty bright.
> any help would be appreciated


Go in to your personalizations and change the sizing of everything, it keeps the same resolution.


----------



## $ilent

and on your browser, if uding firefox just hold CONTROl (Ctrl) and scroll in or out to zoom.

On a browser note, does anyone else find it incredibly annoying viewing youtube and google on thier 1440p monitor? Both alignment miles to the left on my screen now, its well annoying.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> and on your browser, if uding firefox just hold CONTROl (Ctrl) and scroll in or out to zoom.
> 
> On a browser note, does anyone else find it incredibly annoying viewing youtube and google on thier 1440p monitor? Both alignment miles to the left on my screen now, its well annoying.


While I can't test your situation since I'm not near my rig, but I use scripts (tampermonkey) that change youtube's layout and it all centres perfectly.


----------



## $ilent

whats a script?


----------



## valtopps

ie on the top right corner I changed it to 150% and its still a little small? I guess I can try 200%
I fixed the icons now I can see them, how do I dim this monitor down its to bright ?? nvm I see there are no # when you change the brightness just hold the button.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> whats a script?


I *think* they're javascript or something. If using Chrome you install Tampermonkey, if using Firefox you install Greasemonkey. They run on certain websites (you can edit these) to reorganise the page, automate some tasks, or add functionality (e.g. a download button on youtube).

I use:
http://userscripts.org/scripts/show/101753
http://userscripts.org/scripts/show/65477

I highly recommend both.


----------



## $ilent

Got a picture of my monitors BLB in dark room:



Is my BLB considered bad? when Im using he monitor the picture looks great, cant see any uneven colours or anything, its only if I do an actual backlight bleed test do I notice the backlight bleed lol


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes does not look bad and if you don't notice during normal use then you're golden man. Mine was bad enough on the bottom to notice in darker scenes in game and such. Fortunately was on bottom and removing the screws alleviated pretty much enough that now I don't really see unless I look for it. I did have bezel open for stand removal but taking off the frame seemed just too delicate to do just yet.


----------



## $ilent

My monitor has quite a few manufacturing issues, if you wanna call them that!

When tilted forward my monitor slants down to the right by about 1cm, so it hangs 1cm lower than left side. There is a gap in the monitor, biggest at the centre where its like 2mm at best. Also the screen itself hangs low, id say it needs moving up about 1mm or 2mm but its not so low its missing stuff from the desktop that id see if it was sat right.

But all these things are just aesthical to me, they dont bother me at all. Maybe some day in the future ill sit down and think about debezzling it, that would probably reduce my BLB too if I did that.

I have 1 stuck pixel too, briefly tried pressing and rubbing it but it didnt go away. Its on far right side anyway, and its grey so I cant even see it.


----------



## Nazrule

Does ipsledmonitors.com normally take awhile to ship? Says on their site 2-5 days express shipping but my order's been in processing for 4 days now. Maybe I'm just being a little impatient as my 1st monitor from Green-Sum shipped out within 8 hours and I had it within 3 days of ordering. Just not sure if I'm having an issue with IPLS or it's normal.


----------



## Clexzor

LOL wanted to drop this by...some fools over on BF3 forums don't belive I have a 2560x1440 96hz monitor and can run it...makes lol so hard the scrubbage on those forums is isnane









BTW I didn't let them in on this thread secret is safe ha


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Got a picture of my monitors BLB in dark room:
> 
> 
> 
> Is my BLB considered bad? when Im using he monitor the picture looks great, cant see any uneven colours or anything, its only if I do an actual backlight bleed test do I notice the backlight bleed lol


That's not blb you're too close move back at least 5ft... But it loss like you have a tiny bit in the top left

That's mostly IPS glow


----------



## valtopps

when I install my gtx760 and I oc the monitor to 96hz, do I have to buy a better dvi cable or I can use the stock cable that came with the monitor.


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> when I install my gtx760 and I oc the monitor to 96hz, do I have to buy a better dvi cable or I can use the stock cable that came with the monitor.


Get some copper plated ones or is it gold?


----------



## shaolin95

Guys in your opinion how bad is my case and do you think is an easy fix?
Its hard to really show how it looks so I used post processing to approximate what I see in total dark room.
In my monitor, the image shows the leak areas brighter than what my eyes see when I look at my actual monitor in real life, specially I can tell because on the lower right part it is not as bright as it shows on the picture but I feel is a fairly close representation.

At least on the dead pixels part, I got no dead pixels as expected. This one is the one I bought from overclockmonitor.com
Thanks for any comments.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/m9kd.jpg/


----------



## Net200777

Anyone know the little converter that we plug in to use in our walls outlets? I want to buy a new one on Amazon or ebay but the one that I got is faulty and I have to rig it up in the wall.


----------



## Clexzor

just about any tech shop frys, microcenter should have a converter...


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> Anyone know the little converter that we plug in to use in our walls outlets? I want to buy a new one on Amazon or ebay but the one that I got is faulty and I have to rig it up in the wall.


You could also just get an American power plug to plug into the power brick. I think most of us are not using the little adapter, but just bought new plugs.

Something like this:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5285&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Cookybiscuit

So, since the panel is made by Samsung, does the backlight and stuff is too? Ordered mine today, a bit concerned about backlight being uneven (not BLB).


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> So, since the panel is made by Samsung, does the backlight and stuff is too? Ordered mine today, a bit concerned about backlight being uneven (not BLB).


Mm I didnt know there were two different things...can you tell if the image I posted a bit earlier is one or the other..or both?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

When I say uneven backlight, I mean like being able to see streaks and dark spots. It's pretty plain to see if have a monitor that does it if you say look at a dark sky in a game and move the camera around, or you display a grey screen.


----------



## Robertdt

Hey, question for you guys with the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II monitor.

On the bottom panel (right above the QNIX logo), do you guys have a small gap between the paneling / frame and the actual LCD panel that then kind of tapers in on the sides? Basically in the center of my monitor on the bottom where the frame meets the panel, there is a slight gap, almost as though the frame on the bottom of the panel is slight bent outward in the middle, and it isn't contacting the actual LCD screen as much as the rest of the frame.

Do you guys have the same thing? Is it supposed to be there? And is it something to be concerned about (I haven't noticed any blacklight bleed from that area).


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hey, question for you guys with the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II monitor.
> 
> On the bottom panel (right above the QNIX logo), do you guys have a small gap between the paneling / frame and the actual LCD panel that then kind of tapers in on the sides? Basically in the center of my monitor on the bottom where the frame meets the panel, there is a slight gap, almost as though the frame on the bottom of the panel is slight bent outward in the middle, and it isn't contacting the actual LCD screen as much as the rest of the frame.
> 
> Do you guys have the same thing? Is it supposed to be there? And is it something to be concerned about (I haven't noticed any blacklight bleed from that area).


lol nothing wrong man unless its like half inch even some of the asus panels that cost 600 at work have the small gap on the bottom nothing wrong..


----------



## jojoenglish85

Just purchased my x-star perfect pixel earlier this morning for a great price.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> lol nothing wrong man unless its like half inch even some of the asus panels that cost 600 at work have the small gap on the bottom nothing wrong..


Glad to hear it, thanks


----------



## mcsmgs

Not sure this will be of much help but here are my findings with my Qnix QX2710.

Windows 8.1 RTM

Radeon HD 4850

CCC 12.11 BETA Modded.

Since my card is no longer supported in windows 8.1 I could only run CCC with modded drivers. Pixel patch and CRU were used to overclock the qx2710. However I cold only insert refresh rates up to 84hz for some reason anything above that just wouldn't show in CCC or windows.

After a couple of days struggling with drivers and researching I remembered from my old arcade building days that PowerStrip does refresh rate timings on the fly.

That helped me to push my monitor to higher frequencies to a point in which I could clearly notice frameskipping. That helped bypass the limitation that CRU had on my setup. So if anyone out there with a similar problem PowerStrip is a great way to truly test your monitor capabilities but I cant stress this enough this stool can really DAMAGE your panel if used wrongly so be extra careful.

BTW I had to settle to 84hz







as is turned out to be the most stable timing.


----------



## Blackroush

Hi guys I have a problem with my monitor Qnix & Xtar (Both of them). Sometimes I cannot boot my PC at cold boot (Stuck at a blank screen) but after reset it can boot perfectly. Is that common? Anyways Iam using GTX 780, Gigabyte Mini ITX Mobo, 4770K @ 4.2hz, Seasonic 850W Gold.


----------



## air tree

Do you guys think i should buy a True pixel perfect monitor for $420? He even offers free shipping the full package for a year. Or should i just risk and get one for $320?

The $320 dollar one http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-27inch-DVI-PC-Monitor-/130939707569?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c9d60b1

And the $420 dollar pixel perfect one http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-1440p-PLS-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/121156200631?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3578e8b7


----------



## Blackroush

Just buy the cheaper one.. $100 different is alot. although they have a perfect pixel it doesn't mean it will not get a problem during shipping..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Do you guys think i should buy a True pixel perfect monitor for $420? He even offers free shipping the full package for a year. Or should i just risk and get one for $320?
> 
> The $320 dollar one http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-27inch-DVI-PC-Monitor-/130939707569?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c9d60b1
> 
> And the $420 dollar pixel perfect one http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-1440p-PLS-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/121156200631?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3578e8b7


----------



## Mbalmer

I have a QNIX 2700 and I am going to buy a QNIX 2710 Or an X Star, glossy, in the hopes it overclocks because my 2700 only goes to 65hz. I have seen the list of members on the first post, but is there any theory about who I should buy from and what monitor overclocks better? I am leaning toward an X Star because it is only 304 at the moment, but it looks like more people have gone with the QNIX. I'm just hoping to hit 96hz then it will be worth it.

Thanks.


----------



## Blackroush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> I have a QNIX 2700 and I am going to buy a QNIX 2710 Or an X Star, glossy, in the hopes it overclocks because my 2700 only goes to 65hz. I have seen the list of members on the first post, but is there any theory about who I should buy from and what monitor overclocks better? I am leaning toward an X Star because it is only 304 at the moment, but it looks like more people have gone with the QNIX. I'm just hoping to hit 96hz then it will be worth it.
> 
> Thanks.


I can do 120Hz in my Qnix 2710 without flickering, iam not trying to overclock my Xstar yet. I think it depends on the panel, If you get lucky you can push it out until 120Hz but keep in mind you will get darker color if you do an overclock.


----------



## Blackroush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Do you guys think i should buy a True pixel perfect monitor for $420? He even offers free shipping the full package for a year. Or should i just risk and get one for $320?
> 
> The $320 dollar one http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-27inch-DVI-PC-Monitor-/130939707569?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c9d60b1
> 
> And the $420 dollar pixel perfect one http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-1440p-PLS-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/121156200631?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3578e8b7


Hey that $420 Monitor is MDP version which have a complete connection ( VGA, HDMI, DVI, and Display Port) on it. Wow that awesome.


----------



## Lambo

Hi,
I'm looking at purchasing a pair of QNX2710 monitors, and was wondering if there was any downside in terms of overclockability with purchasing the version that comes with an ad board (other than the $40 price difference). I like the flexibility of being able to use display port and other connectors.

Thanks.


----------



## Blackroush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lambo*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm looking at purchasing a pair of QNX2710 monitors, and was wondering if there was any downside in terms of overclockability with purchasing the version that comes with an ad board (other than the $40 price difference). I like the flexibility of being able to use display port and other connectors.
> 
> Thanks.


based on this posts you can't do 120Hz on MDP version http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3990


----------



## Lambo

Has anyone tried adding an ad board to a non-mdp version of a monitor?


----------



## Lambo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackroush*
> 
> based on this posts you can't do 120Hz on MDP version http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3990


That's unfortunate. I guess I'll have to go with the regular version then. Thanks for the quick response!


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> When I say uneven backlight, I mean like being able to see streaks and dark spots. It's pretty plain to see if have a monitor that does it if you say look at a dark sky in a game and move the camera around, or you display a grey screen.


Some may have uniformity issues when overclocked, at least mine does - but its totally not noticable outside of solid color slides. Normal desktop/games/movies its not an issue at all.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Thanks.


----------



## Xentar712

Installed this stand today. It's phenomenal! Tilt, rotate, height and swivel. No branding on it either. I had to use my VESA wall mount kit to attach it. You can install the plate of the stand directly but I didn't like the way the metal tabs rubbed against the back of the monitor and you have to permanently remove the back plastic cover of the stand. I talked the seller down to $25 for mine.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yes single dvi input only for more than 60Hz. Higher input lag on multi-input pcb.


----------



## valtopps

when I install my gtx760 and I oc the monitor to 96hz, do I have to buy a better dvi cable or I can use the stock cable that came with the monitor.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> when I install my gtx760 and I oc the monitor to 96hz, do I have to buy a better dvi cable or I can use the stock cable that came with the monitor.


Won't know till you try but I was able to hit 120hz with the stock cable no prob.


----------



## valtopps

then that mean I don't have to buy one, thanks


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> then that mean I don't have to buy one, thanks


Ya you really don't need one, but if you go overlordcomputer.com and check out their cables that they offer if you want some really good ones.


----------



## jvolkman

I received a QNIX qx2710 and so far I'm pretty happy. I haven't found any dead or stuck pixels yet, and backlight bleed is minimal (just a tiny bit at the top). I did notice that my unit uses a PWM dimmer - somewhere around 160hz by my estimates.

One blemish that caught my eye is a bright spot near the bottom left bezel. It's definitely behind the panel; there's a parallax effect when I move my head back and forth. Maybe an LED that's brighter than the others?



I've tried to highlight it in the picture, although it's still difficult to see. Has anyone else noticed similar issues? Any remedies?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Do you guys think i should buy a True pixel perfect monitor for $420? He even offers free shipping the full package for a year. Or should i just risk and get one for $320?
> 
> The $320 dollar one http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-27inch-DVI-PC-Monitor-/130939707569?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c9d60b1
> 
> And the $420 dollar pixel perfect one http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-1440p-PLS-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/121156200631?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3578e8b7


I've noticed that a lot of users here seem to tend to sway others towards buying non-pixel perfect monitors. I've seen enough people here that have some nasty row of dead pixels or some other sort of weird issue that I just do not want to be a part of. You may save money, but if in the case you get something that bothers you, it's not like you can easily send it back considering they're imports.

I can say that I bought two pixel perfects from accessorieswhole and they both have 0 dead pixels and fair~low BLB. Got them in two business days.... Extremely happy with mine.

With that said, there are many people who don't get pixel perfects and have ones that don't have any issues either.


----------



## Clexzor

Yeah I bought of the pixel perfect one just in case...I didn't feel like arguing if it came in with lots of dead pixels

I attempted to pick up one the pixel perfect monitors from these guys
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CI3EQA2/ref=pe_385040_30332190_pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
He emailed me within 30 minutes of buying it making sure I had a good gpu etc
I asked him about the pixel perfect monitors he stated that yes for the most part of the pixel perfect ones they kinda in his own words hand pick those...lol

But like anything coming over sees they get tossed around and beat up so anything can happen if not packaged well.


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> Yeah I bought of the pixel perfect one just in case...I didn't feel like arguing if it came in with lots of dead pixels


To each their own. But as the OP and various posts throughout this thread point out, there is no difference whatsoever in the "Perfect Pixel" monitors. Odds are very good that none of the sellers with any volume open up any of the boxes and check squat. You just pay extra, and if you have any problems you will still have to argue with the seller. Your extra money buys literally nothing.

I'd also like to point out that buying on Amazon buys you nothing either; Amazon.com isn't selling these monitors - third-party sellers are. Often times the same exact third-party sellers that are selling the monitors on eBay for a hundred bucks cheaper.

But hey, it's your money, whatever makes you happy!


----------



## shaolin95

Well I bought mine from overclockmonitors.com for $319 ($10 more than no pixel perfect.) I had extensive emails about the terms and he stated that it will be checked and what the cutoff time was for the other to be able to ship that same day as I wanted due to the time needed for testing plus that it was a zero dead pixel policy instead of what I have seen from many ebay sellers where 0-2 is somehow called pixel perfect.
I am happy I got one with no dead ones....lucky? Maybe..but at least I had all email proof I needed if it was not the case.


----------



## JQuantum

Hey guys just wanted to update, my QNIX I got a while back, well the dark spot it had for grays/blues are gone. It looks and seems like a pixel perfect monitor. Only difference is that I'm using a 7950 now instead of a 670 SLI lol and I moved it 200km away from where it was before.


----------



## biggyk

The message I got from Green-sum yesterday

Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
Thank you for the inquiry.
Perfect pixel version guarantees no dead pixel.
And least back light bleeding.

However stuck pixel(1 or 2) can be on the screen.
Normally there is no stuck pixel because we do full test before despatching.

Thank you and have a good weekend.

Regards,

- green-sum


----------



## timaishu

So I am trying to test my qnix on my brothers computer. He has a gigabyte gtx570 SC. I installed the newest drivers, then used the nvidia full patch and then set 96hz in cru, but nothing is happening, the card is still ouputting only 60h What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> So I am trying to test my qnix on my brothers computer. He has a gigabyte gtx570 SC. I installed the newest drivers, then used the nvidia full patch and then set 96hz in cru, but nothing is happening, the card is still ouputting only 60h What am I doing wrong?


Did you restart?


----------



## timaishu

Yes I did. I uninstalled old drivers. Restarted. Installed new ones restarted. Then used the patch and then set crew. Still at 60hz, I cannot adjust it in the nvidia controll panel either.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Yes I did. I uninstalled old drivers. Restarted. Installed new ones restarted. Then used the patch and then set crew. Still at 60hz, I cannot adjust it in the nvidia controll panel either.


And you restarted after using CRU to create a custom refresh rate?


----------



## timaishu

Yep.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> To each their own. But as the OP and various posts throughout this thread point out, there is no difference whatsoever in the "Perfect Pixel" monitors. Odds are very good that none of the sellers with any volume open up any of the boxes and check squat. You just pay extra, and if you have any problems you will still have to argue with the seller. Your extra money buys literally nothing.
> 
> I'd also like to point out that buying on Amazon buys you nothing either; Amazon.com isn't selling these monitors - third-party sellers are. Often times the same exact third-party sellers that are selling the monitors on eBay for a hundred bucks cheaper.
> 
> But hey, it's your money, whatever makes you happy!


lol ok I chose amazon because I have an account with them... and actually not all perfect pixel panels state 0 defective pixels which looking back in the thread a lot of people got he ones stating perfect pixel yet below itll state 1-3 stuck etc pixels is non returnable reason. So in fact I am very pleased with my purchase as ive already talked to the seller not Amazon but thanks for trying to point the obv I was unaware that amazon wasn't selling the monitor lolsssss

You reply seems slightly snobby and sounds like you were one of the ones that bought pixel perfect but ddint read the fine print..


----------



## timaishu

That was weird after a minute the custom refresh rate appeared.

Well I tested the theory that my amd card is not at fault and this monitor cannot overclock, its not hardware related on my end.


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> lol ok I chose amazon because I have an account with them... and actually not all perfect pixel panels state 0 defective pixels which looking back in the thread a lot of people got he ones stating perfect pixel yet below itll state 1-3 stuck etc pixels is non returnable reason. So in fact I am very pleased with my purchase as ive already talked to the seller not Amazon but thanks for trying to point the obv I was unaware that amazon wasn't selling the monitor lolsssss
> 
> You reply seems slightly snobby and sounds like you were one of the ones that bought pixel perfect but ddint read the fine print..


Because someone doesn't use "lolsssss" in a sentence does not make them snobby.

Actually, no, Perfect Pixel is a waste of money as described in the OP: I got my "regular" QNIXes from green-sum on eBay for $250 bucks and it's perfect after some BLB remediation and partial refund. I am glad you're are satisfied with your purchase, that's really all that matters in the end.

That said, given that this entire 751+ page thread is not about your personal buying experience, perhaps my reiterating advice from people smarter than me that have posted earlier in this thread would be helpful to others.

Good luck!


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> Because someone doesn't use "lolsssss" in a sentence does not make them snobby.
> 
> Actually, no, Perfect Pixel is a waste of money as described in the OP: I got my "regular" QNIXes from green-sum on eBay for $250 bucks and it's perfect after some BLB remediation and partial refund. I am glad you're are satisfied with your purchase, that's really all that matters in the end.
> 
> That said, given that this entire 751+ page thread is not about your personal buying experience, perhaps my reiterating advice from people smarter than me that have posted earlier in this thread would be helpful to others.
> 
> Good luck!


what....go away dude your post is quite unneeded to begin with...

Fact I was agreeing with the guy above me...not sure whats up your butt?? but ok

And you obv totally missed what we were talking about and the reason for our purchase but im glad you had to throw in your 2 cents for no reason...









oh wait you one of those weirdo's that gets hard on when spending less than someone I guess who knows weird.......lmao The Korean pls monitor club even wieder


----------



## Camberwell

So I'm thinking of upgrading my Samsung T240 which I've had for the last 4 years. I use it for gaming primarily, mostly BF3 and soon BF4. I've never had any issue with input lag or motion blur (which I've only heard about since reading on this forum if I'm honest so I guess I'm not affected?). I currently have a GTX 680, but when Maxwell comes around I'm hoping to upgrade.

Initially I was looking at the newer 144Hz 24" monitors as I read good things about them. Then I came across this thread and oh boy am I tempted. Since I have no experience of higher than 60Hz gaming, just having the higher resolution is very appealing, but having the potential ability to oc to 120Hz is icing on the cake. However, I hate dead pixels.

TLDR, is there an ebay seller that has a real perfect (zero dead) pixel policy, rather than the 0-2 dead pixels that most say is not worth the extra money? I'm on a tight budget and return shipping from Europe to Korea is something I'd like to avoid since it would likely cost as much as the monitor!

Also, is the X-star as good as the Qnix Evolution II? Or are they the same? Thanks for any advice!


----------



## Mbalmer

I have a QNIX 2700 and today I purchased an X-Star 2710, glossy, from dream-seller. I hope I get one that can hit at least 96hz. If that happens, then I say it is worth it. My other has no dead pixels so if the X-Star doesn't work out, I will keep my original, sell my new one, and probably try again. I also ordered another gtx 670 4gb to help run BF4. I will have this by the end of the week, I assume, and will give an update on how mine overclocks....keeping fingers crossed.


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Yes I did. I uninstalled old drivers. Restarted. Installed new ones restarted. Then used the patch and then set crew. Still at 60hz, I cannot adjust it in the nvidia controll panel either.


After you set it in cru, did you go to the nvidia cp and set customize a new res?


----------



## Xentar712

So I took my monitor apart yesterday with three goals: replace the stand, remove the tempered glass pane and try to clean the so called clouding off my LCD. Here's an example of the clouding I was getting. It's hard to get in a picture but you can basically see these vertical stripes when you're looking at a black screen.

So after opening it up, I was able to remove the glass panel with minimal torture. I used a small flat head to pry a corner and then slid an old gift card to break the seal. Once I went around 360 degrees, the pane came right off. Then I was able to peel the double sided tape off the panel.

Once I got the panel opened up(just like in the tutorial videos) I couldn't see anything wrong. I ended up plugging everything back in and lifted the panel up while it was on so I could find out what layer was causing the stripes. After lifting the LCD layer 45 degrees, I could clearly see that the striping was in the LCD panel itself and had nothing to do with the backlighting or diffuser layers. It's hard to tell but I did get a shot of the stripes while I had the LCD layer lifted from the panel.

I tried to wipe both sides with a lint free cloth but the stripes remained. I didn't get the guts to moisten and wipe the backside because I literally had no clue what I was doing at this point lol. I have touched the front of an LCD panel but never the rear. So I'm back together now and everything is fine still, with the exception of the stripes which I barely notice and hardly care about. One more thing. Once I had it all back together, I noticed something very...odd.

Turns out, underneath that tempered glass is a matte screen! So I originally opted for the tempered glass model in hopes for glossy underneath and I should have just gotten the matte. What I don't understand is why you would ruin a perfectly good anti-gloss screen with a glass pane! If I had to guess, they discontinued the glossy panels and these tempered glass models are replacing them. All I can say is don't be fooled!

Coming from someone who prefers glossy monitors, I can easily say this is the best matte screen I have ever owned. It is coated just enough to remove the glare and that's it. I can't compare to the actual glossy model, but it sure is close to being as sharp as my last glossy monitor.

So one question I have is if anyone has ever cleaned the backside of an LCD panel and if there is anything special cleaning solution I can use, or should I just use water? I may try and open it up again in the future, but I'm in no rush until I know that I might have a chance of fixing it.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Just wondering, how long do people find it takes for image retention to take? Seconds? Minutes? Hours?


----------



## jvolkman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Just wondering, how long do people find it takes for image retention to take? Seconds? Minutes? Hours?


Do you mean how long before images are retained? I set mine to 96hz earlier today and browsed the web for ~15-30 minutes, and then noticed retention. I'd say it disappeared after going back to 60hz in a similar amount of time.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvolkman*
> 
> Do you mean how long before images are retained? I set mine to 96hz earlier today and browsed the web for ~15-30 minutes, and then noticed retention. I'd say it disappeared after going back to 60hz in a similar amount of time.


Is your monitor at full brightness? I've yet to see image retention on mine (120Hz) but I run it at ~10 clicks from bottom.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Don't have the monitor yet, just figuring whats normal.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding image retention. When I've experienced it (3D monitor in Lightboost mode), display something dark on white, hold still for a few seconds, and it holds the image, fading after a second or two. From what you guys are saying, it sounds like they run retention free for half an hour, then start doing it?


----------



## jvolkman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Is your monitor at full brightness? I've yet to see image retention on mine (120Hz) but I run it at ~10 clicks from bottom.


Mine is not at full brightness. I don't think brightness would affect retention anyway; the image is retained by the LCD panel whereas the brightness is controlled by the LED backlight array.

I only noticed the retention on a gray background, such as #666: http://www.color-hex.com/color/666666


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> So I'm thinking of upgrading my Samsung T240 which I've had for the last 4 years. I use it for gaming primarily, mostly BF3 and soon BF4. I've never had any issue with input lag or motion blur (which I've only heard about since reading on this forum if I'm honest so I guess I'm not affected?). I currently have a GTX 680, but when Maxwell comes around I'm hoping to upgrade.
> 
> Initially I was looking at the newer 144Hz 24" monitors as I read good things about them. Then I came across this thread and oh boy am I tempted. Since I have no experience of higher than 60Hz gaming, just having the higher resolution is very appealing, but having the potential ability to oc to 120Hz is icing on the cake. However, I hate dead pixels.
> 
> TLDR, is there an ebay seller that has a real perfect (zero dead) pixel policy, rather than the 0-2 dead pixels that most say is not worth the extra money? I'm on a tight budget and return shipping from Europe to Korea is something I'd like to avoid since it would likely cost as much as the monitor!
> 
> Also, is the X-star as good as the Qnix Evolution II? Or are they the same? Thanks for any advice!


This is the 31st time this has been asked. Please read the OP(also search xstar vs Qnix). There is also NO seller on ebay that can and will guarantee PP as it is a SCAM(Just search scam in this thread and you will find this has been brought up possibly hundreds of times).


----------



## ronquilent

Is there a reason for why retention happens on some overclock panels and not others? I've been running my qnix at 120Hz for a couple of weeks now and sometimes the same page will be up for 20 minutes yet I still don't see any retention. The only thing that could possibly be helping is that I've set all the screens to stop receiving a signal after 2 minutes of inactivity which sends them into standby mode with the blinking LEDs.


----------



## jerrolds

Try LCD reduced, and then if that doesnt work - look for other peoples timings, Spartan F8 for example has one where the pixel clock is below 450Mhz for nvidia cards, and i have one for Radeons that is 459Mhz..and is the lowest ive seen. 450Mhz is technically the supported limit for the hardware on these panels, obviously people are going past it but to me thats technically overclocking.

Try this and see if it helps


----------



## SinfulRoad

Yeah no retention here using it for like 12 hours a day (running 96 hz) for over almost 2 months.


----------



## yasamoka

*@Spartan F8:* Doesn't accessorieswhole have a suitable Pixel Perfect policy? I discussed this with him and he said that he tests with multiple color backgrounds and guarantees 0 dead and stuck pixels.

Many people have ordered from him and received monitors with 0 dead and stuck pixels and good BLB. I only remember reading one that didn't and they refunded him the price difference / offered to replace in some way (they tried to go for the first).

So I don't see why one wouldn't order from them. If they get a PP panel, that's that, if not, they refund the price difference. And more often than not they seem to be turning out to be actually PP.

I don't understand from the sample size we have how we can determine if PP is a scam if we haven't collected statistics for each seller and made sure everyone who is looking for stuck and dead pixels is actually finding them / knows the difference. It's too messed up to know this or that.


----------



## jojoenglish85

I have a Shimian and X-star in the mail right now, can't wait until they both arrive.


----------



## MarkiMeerkat

Just wanted to share my experience with BCC on eBay.

Bought the 27" Pixel Perfect Qnix QX2710 for an accepted offer of the same price previously advertised on this very forum.

Shipped after less than 36hrs (I imagine for Pixel Perfect checks); arrived in Australia overnight and then got in the hands of Australia Post eParcel, who as per always took longer to deliver within Perth than it took to arrive from Korea!!!

Well packaged as per other reports.

Screen had been opened and tested but still had all stickers and protective film, etc.

NOT ONE DEAD OR STUCK PIXEL!
MINIMAL LIGHT BLEED!
Honestly, very hard to spot, must be looking for it!

Immediately overclocked via nVidia Control Panel to 96Hz for Win 7 office installation, 120Hz for the gaming installation.

No humming, no heat from power pack, the twin GTX560i's in SLi are running no hotter than before upgrade.

Overall a great experience with a valued eBay seller, he deserves the business from anyone here interested in one of these babies.

Disclaimer: I am in no way affiliated to BCC, but I did promise good review if he accepted my offer, and provided a perfect monitor, which he did.

So I owed him that much (Martin is the General Manager's name).

Thanks for all the info, help, guidance and profiles people have shared here, forums are the best place to find the right stuff.

Cheers and beers for all!


----------



## dorcopio

Does this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-1440p-PLS-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/121156200631?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3578e8b7

supports 120 Hz over DVI port? (I can't get if it's DL or not)

Could [email protected] be streamed over Display Port?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Does this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-1440p-PLS-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/121156200631?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3578e8b7
> 
> supports 120 Hz over DVI port? (I can't get if it's DL or not)
> 
> Could [email protected] be streamed over Display Port?


No. Only the monitors with only DL-DVI support overclocking.


----------



## mudzi

Does anyone know how to play League Of Legends with overclocked monitor, the launcher itself wont load when I have my monitor overclocked but if I go down to native it loads.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> This was mentioned a couple times in this thread but not super clearly. This applies to the people with SLI setups who are trying to get over ~100Hz (400MHz pixel clock).
> 
> Nvidia has a pixel clock limit in their drivers. You can get around this limit by using Precision X (or other methods in this thread) if you have a single video card.
> 
> BUT for SLI setups, here's what ToastyX has to say as of June 8, 2013 about his patch:
> 
> "The patch is still needed in three cases:
> 
> *1. SLI needs the full patch to work properly beyond 400 MHz pixel clock.*
> 2. Some 500-series cards are limited to 400 MHz without the full patch. 600-series and newer cards are not limited.
> 3. CRU needs the regular patch to add resolutions beyond 330 MHz pixel clock. The regular patch won't break HDCP.
> 
> 600-series and newer cards without SLI don't need the patch when using the NVIDIA control panel or the EVGA pixel clock feature."
> 
> A lot of us have SLI and these monitors so I thought this was worth repeating / clarifying. If you're not going to go over 100Hz, then you can just stick to Precision X (or whatever other method you use to overclock the Hz).


Good post mate!

So if I am going to be doing a tri sli with 660tis then as long as I stick to 100Mhz or less, I have no need to patch it, right?


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> Does anyone know how to play League Of Legends with overclocked monitor, the launcher itself wont load when I have my monitor overclocked but if I go down to native it loads.


LoL works fine for me..so thats weird - but im also using fullscreen borderless (windowed) mode..maybe that has something to do with it


----------



## mudzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> LoL works fine for me..so thats weird - but im also using fullscreen borderless (windowed) mode..maybe that has something to do with it


Well the patcher doesnt even start, but im currently patching in 60hz, I will probably be able to change to 120hz when im all logged in.


----------



## biggyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> *@Spartan F8:* Doesn't accessorieswhole have a suitable Pixel Perfect policy? I discussed this with him and he said that he tests with multiple color backgrounds and guarantees 0 dead and stuck pixels.
> 
> Many people have ordered from him and received monitors with 0 dead and stuck pixels and good BLB. I only remember reading one that didn't and they refunded him the price difference / offered to replace in some way (they tried to go for the first).
> 
> So I don't see why one wouldn't order from them. If they get a PP panel, that's that, if not, they refund the price difference. And more often than not they seem to be turning out to be actually PP.
> 
> I don't understand from the sample size we have how we can determine if PP is a scam if we haven't collected statistics for each seller and made sure everyone who is looking for stuck and dead pixels is actually finding them / knows the difference. It's too messed up to know this or that.


Thats where Im really stuck. Do I spend the extra cash knowing that its covered, or spend less and take a chance. BLB is not a concern just pixel errors.


----------



## jerrolds

Can you get squaretrade to cover you? PP is probably a scam, ive ordered 2 non-pp panels from Korea (Crossover/Qnix) and neither had any dead/bright/stuck pixels.

I know you can get them off Amazon, but i would think their pixel policy is the same as their other monitors.


----------



## kevinsbane

What perfect pixel is:

100 monitors come down the line. 80% of these are actually "perfect pixel".
50 are pulled off. They get checked. 40 of those are marked perfect pixel. The rest are put back into the pool of monitors.

Of the general pool: 67% (40 out of 60) are "perfect pixel".
Of the "perfect pixel" poo: 100% are "perfect pixel".

This is if they are ACTUALLY doing what they claim. Best case scenario. Doubtful this is what actually happens. Anyways.

"perfect pixel" definition: who knows.

It is NOT the premium pixel guarantee that Dell offers.
It is not _any_ kind of guarantee.
What it means, is that they checked it and they didn't see any bright pixel defects. They do not guarantee it will not develop bright pixel defects. They do not guarantee it will not have dark pixel defects. It does not guarantee that every pixel will be perfect. It does not guarantee that backlight bleed will not be a problem, tinting will not be present nor that uniformity will be good. It does not guarantee contrast will be good.

The _only guarantee_ that pixel perfect/perfect pixel offers is that you _will_ be paying more.

Perhaps you have a higher chance of getting a monitor without bright pixel defects. So far though, I haven't seen that that is the case.


----------



## shaolin95

So many assumptions on this thread seriously.
What are the facts from users ? That is what matters not all this speculation...


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

anyone else who ordered from IPSledmonitors check their CC statement? The company name it was under was POP-SHUVIT INDUSTRIES HOWELL MI, and was categorized by my CC as automotive.

Approval Code 02423R
Merchant Name POP-SHUVIT INDUSTRIES
Merchant City Name HOWELL
Merchant Zip Code 48855
Partial Shipment Indicator N
Merchant Category Description AUTO PARTS, ACCESSORIES
Broad Industry Description RETAIL-GENERAL
POS Mode Description ONLINE


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> *@Spartan F8:* Doesn't accessorieswhole have a suitable Pixel Perfect policy? I discussed this with him and he said that he tests with multiple color backgrounds and guarantees 0 dead and stuck pixels.


I am almost certain he does not. Doing such a test would be prohibitively expensive to do. Think of the logistics involved. You need to have the package delivered to you, then you need to open it, then hook it up, test it, and if it is perfect pixel, then you repackage, and reship. Twice the shipping costs, at least 10-15 minutes worth of worker time, another 10-15 minutes of processing time, and there goes ALL your profit margin. And that's if the monitor actually is "perfect pixel". What if it isn't? You've just opened a monitor! Now you can't sell the monitor as new, as it's been opened and clearly been "tampered" with. Worth much less. Testing pixel perfect only makes economic sense at the factory, before monitors are packaged and shipped.
Quote:


> Many people have ordered from him and received monitors with 0 dead and stuck pixels and good BLB. I only remember reading one that didn't and they refunded him the price difference / offered to replace in some way (they tried to go for the first).
> 
> So I don't see why one wouldn't order from them. If they get a PP panel, that's that, if not, they refund the price difference. And more often than not they seem to be turning out to be actually PP.


Consider the following. I sell two lines of monitors. One is pixel perfect, the other is not. The PP line is $30 more. 80% of monitors are pixel perfect to begin with. People who buy non-PP get 80% perfect, 20% not; and if they get a "bad" monitor, oh well, it wasn't PP to begin with.

People who buy PP get 80% perfect, 20% not. The 20% complain as they paid for PP and didn't, get their (extra) money back. What's the difference? The PP people paid $30 more and got the _exact same monitor_. And they got _nothing_ for their extra money, they just got the ability to pay more if they "won" the lottery and got the PP monitor, when the same person who bought a non-PP monitor would have the same chance to get a PP monitor, without having to pay more if they did.

That policy (refunding the difference) essentially says the following: "Buying PP monitors means that you get to pay extra if you get a good monitor". The policy can only make sense for a customer if the penalty to the seller for sending out a non-PP monitor is greater than the risk of actually sending out a clearly defective product. Otherwise, buying PP is only paying for the privilege of winning the prize, when there was no need to in the first place.
Quote:


> I don't understand from the sample size we have how we can determine if PP is a scam if we haven't collected statistics for each seller and made sure everyone who is looking for stuck and dead pixels is actually finding them / knows the difference. It's too messed up to know this or that.


Considering the majority of monitors, PP or not, are actually without bright pixel defects, (i take it from this thread), then I think it is safe to say that buying PP is, at best, a poor use of money; and at worst, buying PP is falling for a scam.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> anyone else who ordered from IPSledmonitors check their CC statement? The company name it was under was POP-SHUVIT INDUSTRIES HOWELL MI, and was categorized by my CC as automotive.
> 
> Approval Code 02423R
> Merchant Name POP-SHUVIT INDUSTRIES
> Merchant City Name HOWELL
> Merchant Zip Code 48855
> Partial Shipment Indicator N
> Merchant Category Description AUTO PARTS, ACCESSORIES
> Broad Industry Description RETAIL-GENERAL
> POS Mode Description ONLINE


Yup mine shows up as the same thing. I finally got tracking info for mine and it looks like it actually shipped over the weekend. Should arrive today or tomorrow and I'll update after I've tested it. I'm still concerned that they've removed the standard 1 year warranty completely from their site and only now show a $50 3 year warranty.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> *@Spartan F8:* Doesn't accessorieswhole have a suitable Pixel Perfect policy? I discussed this with him and he said that he tests with multiple color backgrounds and guarantees 0 dead and stuck pixels.
> 
> Many people have ordered from him and received monitors with 0 dead and stuck pixels and good BLB. I only remember reading one that didn't and they refunded him the price difference / offered to replace in some way (they tried to go for the first).
> 
> So I don't see why one wouldn't order from them. If they get a PP panel, that's that, if not, they refund the price difference. And more often than not they seem to be turning out to be actually PP.
> 
> I don't understand from the sample size we have how we can determine if PP is a scam if we haven't collected statistics for each seller and made sure everyone who is looking for stuck and dead pixels is actually finding them / knows the difference. It's too messed up to know this or that.


I honestly think that accessorieswhole could be the one exception to this rule on the PP warranty. Accessorieswhole in the past has had great communication with several people who have bought from them. I myself have had good experiences. You have a good point about statistics but overall if something says "perfect pixel" but is in no way credible to that name(meaning the fact that it is not perfect and only covers dead not stuck, bright, dark, etc) this means by definition it is false advertising in regards to terminology. You could easily say in small print you exclude these circumstances but for the average user who is not going to look into this very deeply PP should be PP. This is why if you really want to try PP i always recommend contacting sellers and question what their "version" of the word "perfect" means. My reasons for calling it a scam is when they alter or make conditions to the word "perfect".

Bottom line is yes PP can still be summarized as a scam overall. Accessorieswhole and possibly other sellers could be exceptions to this general "consensus" (sense no-one has compiled all the data to essentially prove it as you pointed out). I would recommend everyone who seriously considers PP do their research here and with that individual seller.

Also keep in mind this is my opinion of what constitutes a scam. In my mind(and many others i would also assume) perfect should equal perfect(or comparable to name brand general quality) which is what makes this a scam as it is willing-fully mis-leading. You do see this type of mis-information with a hint of truth everywhere, for example i would also consider the marketing of TVs that only do frame interpolation as 120hz/240hz technically or partially a scam with the way it is worded. Where it simply says 120hz rather than saying 60hz filtered to 120hz. This is really close to the same as saying "Perfect" but this and this and this don't count. Mis-information is mis-information period. If these sellers sold this as "Dead pixel free" or "all pixels will at least turn on" then sure that would be fine as it in no way guarantees perfect functionality.

So bottom line here is saying perfect but in small print(which is not even present in most of these ebay sellers posts) saying but being broken in these SEVERAL ways don't count is SCAM material and should be reported as such. If you or anyone else thinks mis-representation is not scam material then we are going to have to agree to dis-agree.

Overall anytime you pay extra for a warranty i would do a bit extra research on what you just did(or did not in this case) buy. And accessorieswhole i will admit could be and has shown to be on several occasions a exception to this.


----------



## jerrolds

While Accessorieswhole has been a get communicator in my experience, my non-pp QXIX came with *very* bad BLB - and it was pretty obvious as soon i turned it on. I dont think any QA wouldve thought that was acceptable in the most loosest sense of the word.

They say they open every box for inspection, but they did not do that with mine - if they did, then their definition of acceptable is very different than what i thought. But i was able to fix the BLB, and they offered a $40 refund which was better than nothing.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> How much cookie? Dont you fancy an ebay job?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also from the first post, "They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability."
> 
> Also to current QX2710 owners, do any of you have to unplug your monitor power every time you use it? I heard its not a good idea to put the monitor into standbye mode when not using it?


I leave it plugged in. But I do switch of the surge protector.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> Yup mine shows up as the same thing. I finally got tracking info for mine and it looks like it actually shipped over the weekend. Should arrive today or tomorrow and I'll update after I've tested it. I'm still concerned that they've removed the standard 1 year warranty completely from their site and only now show a $50 3 year warranty.


same. mine shipped on friday from korea and was out for deliver by 9am today, crazy.

I just picked up a squaretrade warranty for $42 and called it a day.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaXxJaPxX*
> 
> same. mine shipped on friday from korea and was out for deliver by 9am today, crazy.
> 
> I just picked up a squaretrade warranty for $42 and called it a day.


You know I will never understand that. Its supposed to be some economy shipping yet it got to my house in 2 days while UPS you will have to pay a lot for that extra speed and its just within the USA. lol


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> How much cookie? Dont you fancy an ebay job?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also from the first post, "They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability."
> 
> Also to current QX2710 owners, do any of you have to unplug your monitor power every time you use it? I heard its not a good idea to put the monitor into standbye mode when not using it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I leave it plugged in. But I do switch of the surge protector.


Where did you hear that it is bad for the monitor?

With my x-star I just shut down the PC, I had used some black tape to cover the blinking led. I feel pressing the power button will wear it out over time.. whats the difference between "off" red light and "standby" blinking light? I would think unplugging it every time cant be good for it either right?


----------



## timaishu

I think I am going to contact ipsledmonitors.com and see about exchanging/refunding my monitor. I hate to do it, because I like it, but I am finding it hard to get over the fact that it cant overclock. I am just worried about what happens, if I get a replacement from them that is worse than what I have now. I have no recourse other than selling here or wherever at a loss to try a third time. hmmmmm


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Uh last I heard you can't a replacement at all due to tight stock. Maybe no longer the case...


----------



## junkrok

if it is pixel perfect, don't waste it. I might be interested in taking it off your hands.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> Well the patcher doesnt even start, but im currently patching in 60hz, I will probably be able to change to 120hz when im all logged in.


You sure you're getting internet at all? I had an issue where 120Hz was interfering with channel 1 on my Wifi


----------



## mudzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> You sure you're getting internet at all? I had an issue where 120Hz was interfering with channel 1 on my Wifi


Yup and I can confirm this is the problem, although im able to just overclock as soon as im logged in its not too much too worry about


----------



## paulkon

What? How does overclocking the panel affect the wireless signal?


----------



## valtopps

only when there a full moon


----------



## theilya

new nvidia driver wont let me OC past 90hz

I had it at 110 for a while

EDIT: new patch fixed it


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> What? How does overclocking the panel affect the wireless signal?


The only thing I can think of is the signal from the DVI cable interferes with my wireless antennae which are right underneath. It only happens at 120Hz and only on channel 1. 119Hz, 121Hz work perfectly. So strange... I switched to channel 6 and all is fine.


----------



## FeelKun

Thanks


----------



## kroken

Got my qnix, some bleeding down to the right, ive openend it up and put one layoer of eletric tape, didnt help much, maby a little. when i push on the screen it seems to be better. anything i can do? put more layrs of tape?


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> Got my qnix, some bleeding down to the right, ive openend it up and put one layoer of eletric tape, didnt help much, maby a little. when i push on the screen it seems to be better. anything i can do? put more layrs of tape?


Get creative =) I used crumpled up paper like the kind you ship with to get the just the right pressure.


----------



## valtopps

I cant see how a thin piece of electrical tape can fix it? maybe double or triple the tape.


----------



## kroken

Yeah i will add 3 layers more to it and see what happens


----------



## valtopps

I got very little blb on top but im scared to open the monitor, plus its so little it doesn't bother me. let me know if adding 3 strips did the job.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> Yeah i will add 3 layers more to it and see what happens


If you want to get gutsy, plug it in and analyze the BLB with the cover off and the monitor on. I had a very small amount on the very edge that could not be fixed.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Most of the time the bad bleed is actually to do with the metal frame that surrounds the panel. Very easy to remove, sit on flat surface and then straighten. Once this is done you may be surprised that you dont even need any tape!


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> if it is pixel perfect, don't waste it. I might be interested in taking it off your hands.


Yeah its pixel perfect. Just stuck at 60hz.

I mean, I love the monitor, its perfect, it just cant overclock. Maybe I should just ignore it and keep what I got. My card cant even push modern games maxed out past 60fps anyways.

I guess the only reason I am considering replacing is that Im jelly that you guys can overclock but I cant.


----------



## valtopps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Most of the time the bad bleed is actually to do with the metal frame that surrounds the panel. Very easy to remove, sit on flat surface and then straighten. Once this is done you may be surprised that you dont even need any tape!


have you done this?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> have you done this?


The frame is easy to flatten. The metal is so thin, it's no wonder why so many have bent ones. I accidentally bent mine when taking it apart and was able to flatten it back out with heavy books.


----------



## Mbalmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Yeah its pixel perfect. Just stuck at 60hz.
> 
> I mean, I love the monitor, its perfect, it just cant overclock. Maybe I should just ignore it and keep what I got. My card cant even push modern games maxed out past 60fps anyways.
> 
> I guess the only reason I am considering replacing is that Im jelly that you guys can overclock but I cant.


This is exactly the situation I am in. (Except I just ordered another 670 so I should be able to run 96-120 fps) I have a QNIX 2700 (I assume the model before 2710) and it is pixel perfect, very little BLB at bottom right, but I can only overclock to 65hz. I couldn't stand it, so I ordered an x-star two days ago. Trying to sell my other on craigslist, but I live in rural Iowa and there aren't many people here that appreciate a 1440p monitor I guess, because I have only had 2 bites and neither got far enough to make me a counter offer. Is $275 to much to ask for? I'd take $200 if someone would just make me an offer.............not from here though because I don't have enough reps and that is NOT my angle for posting this.

Anyway, I can't wait to try my new one when it gets here. Hopefully before the weekend.


----------



## shaolin95

Guys I just got a X-Rite ColorMunki Display and was wondering about a few settings.

#1 I guess it matters how much brightness I have before resting? I did 10 steps up from lowest brightness.

#2 What One Response Curve should I use 2.2?

#3 ICC profile version 2 or 4?

#4 Enable ADC ?

#5 Technology type CCFL, White LED , RGB LED?

Thanks for any help!


----------



## gl0ry

I've still not gotten a straight answer from anyone yet. Hopefully someone has the answer now.

My monitors overclock to 120hz without an issue when sli is disabled, but the minute it is enabled, anything past 85hz running in "Exclusive Full Screen" causes the drivers to flicker and crash.

Is this a limitation with SLI and is there anything I can do about it? 85hz is fine, but if I can go higher I would like to.

Edit: Yes, I have used the SLI patcher.


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I've still not gotten a straight answer from anyone yet. Hopefully someone has the answer now.
> 
> My monitors overclock to 120hz without an issue when sli is disabled, but the minute it is enabled, anything past 85hz running in "Exclusive Full Screen" causes the drivers to flicker and crash.
> 
> Is this a limitation with SLI and is there anything I can do about it? 85hz is fine, but if I can go higher I would like to.
> 
> Edit: Yes, I have used the SLI patcher.


which gpus?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> which gpus?


Two GTX 780s


----------



## mboner1

When they offer a partial refund for defects because they don't want to replace, what is the amount offered generally??? Cheers guys.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Two GTX 780s


hmmm I have a pair of 780s and dont seem to have issues.

have you tried overclocking directly from NVCP?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> hmmm I have a pair of 780s and dont seem to have issues.
> 
> have you tried overclocking directly from NVCP?


I use CRU, i don't even really understand how to overclock through NVCP unlses you mean to make custom resolutions


----------



## paulkon

So is it safe to order from ipsledmonitors? With the knowledge that it shows up as an automotive company in the CC statement?


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> So is it safe to order from ipsledmonitors? With the knowledge that it shows up as an automotive company in the CC statement?


Yeah its safe. I got mine from there just fine. They are quick with emails too.


----------



## junkrok

I don't think it is an issue really. I've gone to restaurants and had them show up Direct Marketing on my CC. It is weird, but not unheard of. if you're really paranoid, paypal works well for online stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Yeah its pixel perfect. Just stuck at 60hz.
> 
> I mean, I love the monitor, its perfect, it just cant overclock. Maybe I should just ignore it and keep what I got. My card cant even push modern games maxed out past 60fps anyways.


OK, but my offer stands. i actually don't OC anymore, because gamma/color issues. also I realized I didn't push many games past 60fps too. Which is why all take an awesome panel over a bad OC'ed one.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> So is it safe to order from ipsledmonitors? With the knowledge that it shows up as an automotive company in the CC statement?


I think it's safe to order from them in that you'll get a monitor. As for the whole warranty policy that has changed a few times on their site recently hard to say with returns or replacements if you do end up having a monitor with an issue. Mine should be arriving tomorrow so I'll post how it turns out.


----------



## trippinonprozac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I use CRU, i don't even really understand how to overclock through NVCP unlses you mean to make custom resolutions


Yep, I mean just creating a custom res. You can still adjust timings manually if you really want.


----------



## jehnubis

Hello all,
Just got my X-star Dp 2710 (Matte) in today. Everything working just fine for now. I got this version because i thought i would need the OSD in the front. LOL, i would have done fine with the Qnix. I dont even bother with the OSD adjustments at all. The plastic bezels and stand feels damn cheap. It feels like i purchased this thing at my local swap meet. I live in southern California and this thing has that "MADE IN MEXICO" type of feel.

Colors out of the box were great..only needed to adjust things very slightly to get things right.

Very glad it has the VESA mounts, so i will probably go grab a monitor arm for this thing.


----------



## Camberwell

Just bit the bullet and ordered a QNIX QX2710 Evo II, fingers crossed for a good one.....


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trippinonprozac*
> 
> Yep, I mean just creating a custom res. You can still adjust timings manually if you really want.


Same thing happens unless I disable SLI.


----------



## theilya

did you try downloading latest patcher?
what drivers are you using?


----------



## VENAXIS

My QNIX QX2710 27" Matte Perfect Pixels is on its way!







Got it for $399 from ebay (It's funny how the glossy version is more expensive than the matte's)

How the hell did it increase from $300 to $400 in less than a year? I have no idea.


----------



## shaolin95

Ouch. I bought mine from overclockmonitors.com for $319 (PP) and it arrive in two days so its insane ebay is going that high now. I better get another soon.


----------



## Warpony

Hi all,

Ordered mine from accessorieswhole last week, got it yesterday and was so excited. This until I noticed that there's dust or something caught under the panel.




Not sure how well it photographs, but it's quite few pixels wide and it's just off center, so my eye catches it ALL the time. There's also another speck to the left, but it's less annoying.

Given, it's not on the outside. Tried gently rubbing, cleaning and by sellers recommendation tapping on it. Nothing. It's there.

I was prepared to open up and maybe need to fix BLB or alike, but could i get rid of this dirt without starting to go very deep into the actual layers of the screen? Not sure i'm comfortable with that.

Any suggestions? Cause this monitor is hardly useable with this very visible dark spot that annoys the living crap out of me.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Ouch. I bought mine from overclockmonitors.com for $319 (PP) and it arrive in two days so its insane ebay is going that high now. I better get another soon.


$319 :'(

Haha yeah I only paid that much because accessorieswhole insures there are no dead pixels, not even one (Perfect Pixel version), and for their free Expedited Int'l Shipping which is a big plus for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warpony*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Ordered mine from accessorieswhole last week, got it yesterday and was so excited. This until I noticed that there's dust or something caught under the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how well it photographs, but it's quite few pixels wide and it's just off center, so my eye catches it ALL the time. There's also another speck to the left, but it's less annoying.
> 
> Given, it's not on the outside. Tried gently rubbing, cleaning and by sellers recommendation tapping on it. Nothing. It's there.
> 
> I was prepared to open up and maybe need to fix BLB or alike, but could i get rid of this dirt without starting to go very deep into the actual layers of the screen? Not sure i'm comfortable with that.
> 
> Any suggestions? Cause this monitor is hardly useable with this very visible dark spot that annoys the living crap out of me.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I also got mine from accessorieswhole just today and awaiting its arrival. I spoke with them about the warranty and this is what they said:

"Warranty is 1 year.
If the monitor is faulty, we cover return shipping fee for 3 months after purchase.
After 3 months, you have to pay for the return shipping fee.
Within the warranty period, if there is any issue with the adapter or PCB board, we support it free of charge."

I was asking them about the Perfect Pixel version. I'm thinking it's the same thing with yours since you got it from them.

So you either do it yourself (somehow) or ask them if it's possible to return it to them so they can fix it.


----------



## Warpony

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> I also got mine from accessorieswhole just today and awaiting its arrival. I spoke with them about the warranty and this is what they said:
> 
> "Warranty is 1 year.
> If the monitor is faulty, we cover return shipping fee for 3 months after purchase.
> After 3 months, you have to pay for the return shipping fee.
> Within the warranty period, if there is any issue with the adapter or PCB board, we support it free of charge."
> 
> I was asking them about the Perfect Pixel version. I'm thinking it's the same thing with yours since you got it from them.
> 
> So you either do it yourself (somehow) or ask them if it's possible to return it to them so they can fix it.


I also payed extra for the pixel perfect.

I contacted accessorieswhole on ebay and they:
1) Said i should try knocking with my finger. (Did, nothing)
2) Offered to refund the difference between a normal screen and pixel perfect.

The second option is just baffling. Nevermind that "Pixel perfect" might be a scam, but to offer it, send a faulty monitor and then offer to buy the pixel perfect back?!

Oh well, we'll see.


----------



## biggyk

That does sound pretty sketchy.


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> When they offer a partial refund for defects because they don't want to replace, what is the amount offered generally??? Cheers guys.


green-sum offered me $15. I countered with $25 and they accepted. I did this via the eBay resolution process to avoid any shenanigans .


----------



## shaolin95

I got $30 from mine because of BL issues even thought now I am not sure if mine was really a bad case..oh well
I used the money for a SquareTrade warranty with a discount coupon code so almost perfect match


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warpony*
> 
> I also payed extra for the pixel perfect.
> 
> I contacted accessorieswhole on ebay and they:
> 1) Said i should try knocking with my finger. (Did, nothing)
> 2) Offered to refund the difference between a normal screen and pixel perfect.
> 
> The second option is just baffling. Nevermind that "Pixel perfect" might be a scam, but to offer it, send a faulty monitor and then offer to buy the pixel perfect back?!
> 
> Oh well, we'll see.


Those people are charging A LOT for the Perfect Pixel version and this happens? They even say they test it 100% before shipping, that's probably just to see if it turns on or not, which is rubbish. I heard about the refund for the difference between the normal and the pixel perfect from another vendor, didn't know it applied accessorieswhole.. -_-

Oh god I just hope this doesn't happen to me as well..

Please keep us updated on the matter, I'm very interested to know how they're going to deal with it.


----------



## Massive17

Maybe this has been addressed before.

I just got my second X-Star. Only one dead pixel.

I followed the same instructions to OC it but the option to set refresh rate to 96hz in Nvidia control panel doesn't appear. Am I doing something wrong or is it not possible to OC both monitor?


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> did you try downloading latest patcher?
> what drivers are you using?


I've used a few different driver versions and yeah I downloaded the latest patcher. On beta atm.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darknight1*
> 
> green-sum offered me $15. I countered with $25 and they accepted. I did this via the eBay resolution process to avoid any shenanigans .


Ha! and they call that a partial refund?? I have seen some pretty banged up screens where the buyer has been offered a "partial refund". If mine arrives like some i have seen here and there i will be wanting the majority of my money back or they will be getting the monitor back and forced to refund my dough. Hopefully it doesn't come to that tho. I'm not expecting perfection, far from it, but if i get a dent in the screen or a group of like 50 pixels, they better be offering more than $15 lol.

On another note, i would like to invite/ ask you all to take the poll i started about your experiences with the korean monitors. Cheers...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1430315/how-are-the-korean-monitors-holding-up/20


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Ha! and they call that a partial refund?? I have seen some pretty banged up screens where the buyer has been offered a "partial refund". If mine arrives like some i have seen here and there i will be wanting the majority of my money back or they will be getting the monitor back and forced to refund my dough. Hopefully it doesn't come to that tho. I'm not expecting perfection, far from it, but if i get a dent in the screen or a group of like 50 pixels, they better be offering more than $15 lol.
> 
> On another note, i would like to invite/ ask you all to take the poll i started about your experiences with the korean monitors. Cheers...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1430315/how-are-the-korean-monitors-holding-up/20


Yeah, mine wasn't as bad as some; it just had some wicked back light bleed that I was able to fix by opening up the panel and bending the metal frame back into shape and applying some electrical tape. It only took me a half hour and is perfect now, so I figured $25 bucks was fair. I probably could have gotten more, but *shrug*. If it can't be fixed to look decent, sic eBay / Amazon / etc on them and send that sucker back.

Good luck!


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warpony*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Ordered mine from accessorieswhole last week, got it yesterday and was so excited. This until I noticed that there's dust or something caught under the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how well it photographs, but it's quite few pixels wide and it's just off center, so my eye catches it ALL the time. There's also another speck to the left, but it's less annoying.
> 
> Given, it's not on the outside. Tried gently rubbing, cleaning and by sellers recommendation tapping on it. Nothing. It's there.
> 
> I was prepared to open up and maybe need to fix BLB or alike, but could i get rid of this dirt without starting to go very deep into the actual layers of the screen? Not sure i'm comfortable with that.
> 
> Any suggestions? Cause this monitor is hardly useable with this very visible dark spot that annoys the living crap out of me.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Do you have the glass version or the matte? Either way, the fix will be the same. You'll have to pop off the metal bracket of the panel which is pretty straight forward. If you have the glass, it will be taped on top of the bracket that comes off. If it's glass, wipe behind the glass. If you have matte or glossy, remove the two pieces of tape and lift the lcd to see if the dust is behind it or not. There's really not that much more risk, it lifts right up with your fingernail. I had some dust behind my glass that made it look like dead pixels. I just permanently removed my glass though because the screen was matte behind it and the glass only added glare


----------



## Net200777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> I use CRU, i don't even really understand how to overclock through NVCP unlses you mean to make custom resolutions


That's the problem. Open up Nvidia CP. Go to custom resolution, set a new res with the refresh you want as well as 32 bit color. Go back and apply it. You then should be good to go.


----------



## paulkon

Just FYI, anything that looks like an irregular black spot on the screen, will be dust behind the LCD in most cases. So, opening up the panel and keeping the whole assembly vertical (so that dust doesn't start to settle) and wiping it very gently with a microfiber cloth should fix it.


----------



## Coree

I've been battling this image retention issue for 5 weeks now. I even left my monitor OFF for 2½ weeks, because my backup system had a 5450 and for some reason it didn't work on the QX2710, soI used a old 19'' Dell. My last chance is just to lower the pixel clock lower than on stock. Atm is at 59Hz and pixel clock at 226 Mhz. Could underclocking help the issue? Also, can the stock cable be the issue? I allways get the Mozilla Firefox's search bar and magnifying glass visible on the top right corner. But this image retention comes and then fades away. Seems like it's very prone to static images. Any of you guys faced the same issue that I have?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coree*
> 
> I've been battling this image retention issue for 5 weeks now. I even left my monitor OFF for 2½ weeks, because my backup system had a 5450 and for some reason it didn't work on the QX2710, soI used a old 19'' Dell. My last chance is just to lower the pixel clock lower than on stock. Atm is at 59Hz and pixel clock at 226 Mhz. Could underclocking help the issue? Also, can the stock cable be the issue? I allways get the Mozilla Firefox's search bar and magnifying glass visible on the top right corner. But this image retention comes and then fades away. Seems like it's very prone to static images. Any of you guys faced the same issue that I have?


As little as it happens, the top right corner is the only spot I have it. It is VERY faint though


----------



## Coree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> As little as it happens, the top right corner is the only spot I have it. It is VERY faint though


Yeah mines faint too. But I can prevent this by leaving the top right corner blank, and when i'm browsing the internet I don't use fullscreen..
I just hope that this isn't permanent :/ I've been flashing black/white static images switching every 10 sec for weeks now, no success though.


----------



## jerrolds

Ive read that lowering the overclock (back down to 60hz) returns the IR back to normal. Google LCD Repair v2 - theres a "fix my pixels" option that runs static, run that for an hour (or a few) to see if it gets rid of it.

What was your pixel clock when you overclocked?


----------



## Coree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Ive read that lowering the overclock (back down to 60hz) returns the IR back to normal. Google LCD Repair v2 - theres a "fix my pixels" option that runs static, run that for an hour (or a few) to see if it gets rid of it.
> 
> What was your pixel clock when you overclocked?


When I tried 96Hz, I ONLY changed the refresh rate. (I don't exactly remember the pixel clock)


----------



## Spartan F8

With many of the recent posts i think it is proper to re-affirm that Perfect Pixel is still a SCAM... and apparently this does apply to accessorieswhole like any other seller. "guaranteeing" a perfect pixel monitor by the use of a inspection and then sending a defective monitor is just got SCAM all over it. I mean really how many times does this need to happen before people stop buying PP. How many of these do we really think "developed" dead pixels in shipment? Or is it a bit more likely that the "inspection" is a load of crap and they get lucky here and there(in which "here and there" IS a perfect term for the reliability of PP from buyers who reported).

I really think this specific argument needs to be put to rest as PP = SCAM otherwise we are going to just keep revisiting it every 10-15 pages in the thread.

EDIT: Directly from the OP

Q: Is it worth it to buy a pixel perfect monitor?
A: No. All evidence as of now suggests that probability of receiving a monitor with no or little dead pixels is random, even if purchasing a 'pixel perfect' monitor. It seems that it is a marketing ploy for them to get more money.

^^^ This is what new members should be going off of. There is no further argument here it is a SCAM.


----------



## jerrolds

While i agree with PP is a scam (they dont actually check the panels before shipping out) - doesnt it give the buyer leverage for free return shipping if the panel does have bright/dead/stuck pixels that break the sellers "Pixel Perfect" definition?

If it does - then it can be worth it to some buyers (not that theyll get a PP panel, but they can return and exchange for free)

If they still dont pay for return shipping, then its a scam all the way around.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> While i agree with PP is a scam (they dont actually check the panels before shipping out) - doesnt it give the buyer leverage for free return shipping if the panel does have bright/dead/stuck pixels that break the sellers "Pixel Perfect" definition?
> 
> If it does - then it can be worth it to some buyers (not that theyll get a PP panel, but they can return and exchange for free)
> 
> If they still dont pay for return shipping, then its a scam all the way around.


The leverage is what makes it worthwhile, but there seems to be a fairly high chance of getting a perfect monitor anyway. If you don't get what you pay for, the seller is responsible for all costs.i got it (admittedly on the cheap with some good old-fashioned bargaining) and don't regret it at all. A dead pixel or two not near the center, that I could put up with, but a stuck one would drive me insane. For me the extra 10% was money well spent.


----------



## shaolin95

I think the problem is, we all have different experiences so I cannot call a SCAM something without evidence.
The one I bought was perfect , and the email chats I exchanged were very clear before I purchased, plus I only paid $10 extra for it.
So I can only speak for my personal experience with overclockmonitors.com. Since I was not there, nor were you, I cannot tell they did or did not check it.

Regards


----------



## Clexzor

Hey guys got my monitor in today from ecomade arena came in pefect shape no dead pixels will clock to 120 but have it at 96hz feels awesome compared to my pb278q on my workstatin way better for gaming









anyways I wanted to replace the mount/stand and live near a microcenter they have quite a few all a little on the high side but wanted to see if this would fit it

http://www.microcenter.com/product/352094/10-24_Desktop_Monitor_Stand_DLB100
or
http://www.microcenter.com/product/360060/Full-Motion_13_-_27_LCD_TV-Monitor_Mount

I measured the mount holes seems to be fine any thoughts thanks for help1


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> I think the problem is, we all have different experiences so I cannot call a SCAM something without evidence.
> The one I bought was perfect , and the email chats I exchanged were very clear before I purchased, plus I only paid $10 extra for it.
> So I can only speak for my personal experience with overclockmonitors.com. Since I was not there, nor were you, I cannot tell they did or did not do check it.
> 
> Regards


First hand accounts do not discount this argument. That is like saying dinos didn't exist since you were not there or this guy cannot be proven to have done the theft since no-one was there to see it. We have evidence and it is called ample inconsistencies which you just pointed out in your comment. If someone claims something and is wrong even close to HALF the time(even 25% would be good enough for a scam in my opinion) then it is a complete fictional statement based on luck. 50% is not even good odds really when talking about buying a new product. I can tell you what it would be good odds in GAMBLING. Which is all the Perfect Pixel really is.

And this is not just from my personal experience. I have been in this thread since it was started and have seen most(almost all) the reports here and in the sister thread(plus hardforums thread). Our abundant reports ARE evidence. If you want to toss $10 into the fire thats fine but everyone needs to be well informed that this by definition, evidence and through reported chats with seller IS a scam.

EDIT: The supermarket sells what they call is a "perfect" 12 pack of soda but about *half* of these "perfect" packs of soda have busted cans that leaked everywhere. Don't you think it is appropriate to call it a SCAM? I mean what exactly are the standards here? Can they be wrong 70% of the time before it can be declared a scam?


----------



## shaolin95

well I did not "throw" it as I did get what I asked and payed for.
I am also referring to the experience with the vendor I chose. So just because others dont test does not mean they all do the same thing. That is the problem. You determined that if these dont do it, then nobody does. That makes no sense.


----------



## Darknight1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coree*
> 
> I've been battling this image retention issue for 5 weeks now. I even left my monitor OFF for 2½ weeks, because my backup system had a 5450 and for some reason it didn't work on the QX2710, soI used a old 19'' Dell. My last chance is just to lower the pixel clock lower than on stock. Atm is at 59Hz and pixel clock at 226 Mhz. Could underclocking help the issue? Also, can the stock cable be the issue? I allways get the Mozilla Firefox's search bar and magnifying glass visible on the top right corner. But this image retention comes and then fades away. Seems like it's very prone to static images. Any of you guys faced the same issue that I have?


No, I've not seen this issue at all.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> well I did not "throw" it as I did get what I asked and payed for.
> I am also referring to the experience with the vendor I chose. So just because others dont test does not mean they all do the same thing. That is the problem. You determined that if these dont do it, then nobody does. That makes no sense.


No i would say that the evidence points to making the assumption they are not going to check it until proven otherwise. Like making the seller send you a personal picture of your monitor on before shipment with no dead pixels. Overall this is known to be a scam and yes there is a possibility that some sellers may actually check(even though some have said so and been proven to be liars) but this would not in any way completely discredit the consensus as a whole.

I mean sure there are some dark, gloomy scary alleys that may be perfectly safe to walk down but the general consensus if to still be careful and make sure.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Net200777*
> 
> That's the problem. Open up Nvidia CP. Go to custom resolution, set a new res with the refresh you want as well as 32 bit color. Go back and apply it. You then should be good to go.


nah, same thing happened with nvcp.


----------



## kroken

OK i opened it up and added about 5 layers of tape but it didnt do the trick, then i added some pressure to the bleedding area and a little better.. so i tried the opposite way and gave it some pressure from the back and bleed disappeared!, now the only problem is to get the mainframe on


----------



## skilly

Did anyone use the nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2.2.zip lately? The last one I used was 1.2.

The reason I'm asking is because I went to help my buddy install and overclock his new Qnix and he has Norton installed. Norton wouldn't allow us to install the patcher because it said it was a "ws.trojan.h" . We made the exception and everything worked great after that.. Im assuming it's a false positive because its touching sensitive files but has anyone else gotten that Trojan message? I downloaded it from http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher . Thanks!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> I think the problem is, we all have different experiences so I cannot call a SCAM something without evidence.
> The one I bought was perfect , and the email chats I exchanged were very clear before I purchased, plus I only paid $10 extra for it.
> So I can only speak for my personal experience with overclockmonitors.com. Since I was not there, nor were you, I cannot tell they did or did not check it.
> 
> Regards


The issue is not so much that you got a "Perfect pixel" monitor by paying for it, but rather... would you have gotten the very same monitor, and not have paid extra for the "perfect pixel" guarantee? The numbers we've gathered so far point to the conclusion that while many people get pixel perfect monitors when they pay for them, many people also get pixel perfect monitors - without paying for it.

So what then, did you really pay for? Did you pay for them to check it? (I doubt they did, but I will not say they didn't, because they might have, even though there's zero business sense in doing so) Did you pay for a "better" monitor? Not really, as "pixel perfect" covers a very narrow spectrum of pixel defects, of which many other defects are possible (or even more likely!) Did you pay for better warranty protection? Not really, since it seems one common mode of dealing with a bright pixel defect is simply to refund the difference - ie, you paid extra for the privelege of winning the panel lottery when, in all likelihood, you would've gotten the same panel without paying extra. Are you paying for peace of mind? Well, no argument there. Too bad more than a few have found that their "peace of mind" investment proved to be nothing of the sort.


----------



## junkrok

How is this still even being debated? Read through this thread and it is obvious. If you think some korean ebay seller is going to sift through their stock for an additional $20 you are dreaming. The manufacturer does not make a "pixel perfect" monitor, therefore it cannot be sold.

Im impressed that this scam still works on people. if I ever found a product that had say a 20%+ of being defective, I would claim to sell a "perfect" version for a higher rate. Then if the customer ends up getting a defective one, refund the additional cost. The ones that get a "perfect" one encourage others to pay the extra fee, and the ones who get the refund feel like they were compensated for the trouble. Pure genius!


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> How is this still even being debated? Read through this thread and it is obvious. If you think some korean ebay seller is going to sift through their stock for an additional $20 you are dreaming. The manufacturer does not make a "pixel perfect" monitor, therefore it cannot be sold.
> 
> Im impressed that this scam still works on people. if I ever found a product that had say a 20%+ of being defective, I would claim to sell a "perfect" version for a higher rate. Then if the customer ends up getting a defective one, refund the additional cost. The ones that get a "perfect" one encourage others to pay the extra fee, and the ones who get the refund feel like they were compensated for the trouble. Pure genius!


I specifically made sure to get a PP policy where you don't get a refund if there are issues. The ones where you do are scams, the ones where you don't aren't. That said the sellers will try and scam you if it isn't PP by offering refunds, and some even just ignore you.

So PP isn't a scam, so long as you know what to look for and don't let them give you a partial refund in the case of a bad monitor.


----------



## jerrolds

Buying "Pixel Perfect" to me is buying leverage so the seller pays for return shipping, essentially a free exchange. I dont think they actually open up and check anything.

EDIT: a word


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I specifically made sure to get a PP policy where you don't get a refund if there are issues. The ones where you do are scams, the ones where you don't aren't. That said the sellers will try and scam you if it isn't PP by offering refunds, and some even just ignore you.
> 
> So PP isn't a scam, so long as you know what to look for and don't let them give you a partial refund in the case of a bad monitor.


Really? Well in my opinion any time you have to FORCE a seller to do anything it kinda screams scam. I do agree that you could message the seller and be a pain enough to get what you want but that still means the root premise is a scam. I guess i might be expecting to much though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Buying "Pixel Perfect" to me is buying leverage for the seller paying for return shipping, essentially a free exchange. I dont they actually open up and check anything.


The above comment covers this one leverage is a term that is in line with trying to get what you want rather than buying a extra level of warranty and NO, most maybe all do NOT actually open the box even if they say they are. Have them send you a picture and then post that picture here so we can cross reference and make sure they are not sending the same picture over and over again. And many times they wont pay return shipping, then will just try and refund a difference making the whole idea pointless.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I specifically made sure to get a PP policy where you don't get a refund if there are issues. The ones where you do are scams, the ones where you don't aren't. That said the sellers will try and scam you if it isn't PP by offering refunds, and some even just ignore you.
> 
> So PP isn't a scam, so long as you know what to look for and *don't let them give you a partial refund in the case of a bad monitor.*


Bolded for emphasis.

If your seller wants to refund you on your "PP" monitor which isn't PP, then they _must_ offer you more than just the difference. There must be a penalty, some sort of incentive such that sending out a bad monitor actively punishes the seller (thus they are incentivized not to send out bad monitors).


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> How is this still even being debated? Read through this thread and it is obvious. If you think some korean ebay seller is going to sift through their stock for an additional $20 you are dreaming. The manufacturer does not make a "pixel perfect" monitor, therefore it cannot be sold.
> 
> Im impressed that this scam still works on people. if I ever found a product that had say a 20%+ of being defective, I would claim to sell a "perfect" version for a higher rate. Then if the customer ends up getting a defective one, refund the additional cost. The ones that get a "perfect" one encourage others to pay the extra fee, and the ones who get the refund feel like they were compensated for the trouble. Pure genius!


Hahaha THIS!^


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Really? Well in my opinion any time you have to FORCE a seller to do anything it kinda screams scam. I do agree that you could message the seller and be a pain enough to get what you want but that still means the root premise is a scam. I guess i might be expecting to much though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The above comment covers this one leverage is a term that is in line with trying to get what you want rather than buying a extra level of warranty and NO, most maybe all do NOT actually open the box even if they say they are. Have them send you a picture and then post that picture here so we can cross reference and make sure they are not sending the same picture over and over again.


I fully accept that they try and scam you with PP, but if you can force a refund/replacement easily through ebay buyer protection then I'm not fussed what the seller wanted.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> And many times they wont pay return shipping, then will just try and refund a difference making the whole idea pointless.


But if this not to the Buyers liking, they can use this as leverage during the eBay dispute - eBay will (most likely) side with the buyer and force the seller to pay for return (or even cross ship) shipping.


----------



## paulkon

I'm curious to know what sort of defects qualify these panels to be sold to third-party resellers in S. Korea. Assuming that the panel is running at 60Hz (full 300 cd/m2 brightness, no panel uniformity issues), and has no dead pixels or clouding or dust behind the LCD, etc.

I mean Samsung themselves sells their own panels in their own casing at 3x the price so it makes me wonder how this is all even works. Is the extra ~$600 really for a better bezel, stand, connectivity options, and OSD?


----------



## VENAXIS

I ordered my PP QNIX QX2710 from accessorieswhole yesterday. They say here they inspect each item three times. They also say Santa Claus visits every Christmas, I don't know what to believe anymore..









I'll have to wait till my item arrives (That's of course when they ship it since it's stuck at "This order is being processed through PayPal", even though PayPal records show that the payment is complete and that they've already received it)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered my PP QNIX QX2710 from accessorieswhole yesterday. They say here they inspect each item three times. They also say Santa Claus visits every Christmas, I don't know what to believe anymore..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to wait till my item arrives (That's of course when they ship it since it's stuck at "This order is being processed through PayPal", even though PayPal records show that the payment is complete and that they've already received it)


ok....LOL what does an inspection entitle? Is it as fast as Santa?

Anyway i think it might be better to move the discussion somewhere other than the PP SCAM since we are trying to find one golden nugget in a swamp.


----------



## timaishu

So I emailed ipsledmonitors.com and they said they cannot offer an exchange to due to low quantities, but they can still take it back. I asked what the issue is and they say that asked their qnix rep and they said, "The main board, DPL-2560LS.REV.01, was designed by Display Land Co. Ltd. for 60Hz operation. It just so happens that the board will process the extra data for higher refresh rates, although not flawlessly in most cases. Timing, temperature, and even impedance can effect the performance. A pixel/ frame error at higher refresh rates is not indicative of a panel issue. The panel and TCON board (Samsung parts) are not involved in producing those "mistakes". It's likely the main board is not keeping up at higher refresh rates, it's actually atypical when it does (although that is preferred by enthusiasts)."

So I at least know its not a panel defect but is actually working as designed, its just those whom can overclock are purely lucky. So I have a big decision to make. Return it for money back and either gamble again with them or a different seller; OR, I just keep what I have and be happy I have a monitor I love despite its overclocking struggles.


----------



## Aftermath2006

so i have been gaming for awhile on 120hz with the Qnix then all the sudden today i go to fire up a game and nothing above 60 hz will work just tried 120hz 110hz 96hz 120hz get green stuff 110 and 96 screen jumps 60 hz still works fine anybody got any ideas


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> So I emailed ipsledmonitors.com and they said they cannot offer an exchange to due to low quantities, but they can still take it back. I asked what the issue is and they say that asked their qnix rep and they said, "The main board, DPL-2560LS.REV.01, was designed by Display Land Co. Ltd. for 60Hz operation. It just so happens that the board will process the extra data for higher refresh rates, although not flawlessly in most cases. Timing, temperature, and even impedance can effect the performance. A pixel/ frame error at higher refresh rates is not indicative of a panel issue. The panel and TCON board (Samsung parts) are not involved in producing those "mistakes". It's likely the main board is not keeping up at higher refresh rates, it's actually atypical when it does (although that is preferred by enthusiasts)."
> 
> So I at least know its not a panel defect but is actually working as designed, its just those whom can overclock are purely lucky. So I have a big decision to make. Return it for money back and either gamble again with them or a different seller; OR, I just keep what I have and be happy I have a monitor I love despite its overclocking struggles.


Thanks for the info, that's actually good news for me as like I've mentioned before I accidentally cracked my 1st panel doing the tape mod trick but everything else is like brand new except the lcd panel itself and it overclocked with 0 issues to 120hz. So in the event that my new Qnix doesn't overclock well I should be able to just take the panel out from the new case and put it in my 1st monitor and get it to 120hz.


----------



## niccroetger

I am having some trouble overlocking my QNIX QX2710 from accessorieswhole (ebay), I have followed the process in this thread but to no success

1- Connected my Gigabyte 7970Ghz via 2 crossfire cables

2- Patched the driver (Cata 13.10betaV2) and restarted (program now reports all drivers already patched)

3- Open CRU and copy the default 59.950 profile and adding a new profile only changing the refresh rate

4- I move this new profile too the top of the list and just below it the default 59.950 profile.

5- I reboot the computer, when i reach the windows welcome screen i can hear all the normal start-up signs but the screen itself reports "DVI-mode power saver" and shuts off with the blue light turning

6- In order to enter my desktop normally i have to start the computer in safe mode and reset-all (removing the profile from CRU does not resolve the issue)

7- Once I have run reset-all in safemode the computer will boot normally

I can't seem to find anyone else with this problem. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Note I have also started a new tread based on this problem, but i am not sure where the question would be more appropriate


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> ok....LOL what does an inspection entitle? Is it as fast as Santa?
> 
> Anyway i think it might be better to move the discussion somewhere other than the PP SCAM since we are trying to find one golden nugget in a swamp.


I really hope it is! Haha









Alright.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> Thanks for the info, that's actually good news for me as like I've mentioned before I accidentally cracked my 1st panel doing the tape mod trick but everything else is like brand new except the lcd panel itself and it overclocked with 0 issues to 120hz. So in the event that my new Qnix doesn't overclock well I should be able to just take the panel out from the new case and put it in my 1st monitor and get it to 120hz.


Let me know how it goes, if your new ones overclocks, would you be willing to sell me your main board?


----------



## valtopps

im tring to oc mine at 96hz? I have one NVidia card so I didn't use the patch. I open cru clicked on the 59hz, copied it put the paste never got highlighted. but some how I added another and changed the hz to 96 and add put it on top. rebooted the pc and I still at 60hz? I know im doing something wrong can someone help me please.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> im tring to oc mine at 96hz? I have one NVidia card so I didn't use the patch. I open cru clicked on the 59hz, copied it put the paste never got highlighted. but some how I added another and changed the hz to 96 and add put it on top. rebooted the pc and I still at 60hz? I know im doing something wrong can someone help me please.


I never tried pasting or anything like that. Try just clicking on it < edit < enter the refresh rate you want < hit okay < restart. Don't worry about forgetting the previous settings, the reset-all.exe will put it back how it was.


----------



## valtopps

I just put up a pic of what I got. maybe I need the patch?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

so do these really OC to 120hz usually? Without issue?


----------



## jojoenglish85

damn all i did was continue to make a custom resolution and change the clock speed in increments of 5hz until my screen went blank. then i dialed it back until it was stable. I save the profile and thats it, very easy.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> damn all i did was continue to make a custom resolution and change the clock speed in increments of 5hz until my screen went blank. then i dialed it back until it was stable. I save the profile and thats it, very easy.


how high did you get it? how do you know you aren't missing frames etc.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> so do these really OC to 120hz usually? Without issue?


Most can oc to 96 without much issue, and a large sample size can oc to 120. They aren't without issues though.

The most common and unavoidable issue @ 120hz is that it lowers your gamma and kind of makes your colors less accurate (Darker and less vibrant picture). Other common issue is that it causes image retention.

I don't believe there's much of any issue with 96hz. I believe it also lowers gamma to some extent but it's barely noticeable if that. Most consider it a sweet spot.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> Most can oc to 96 without much issue, and a large sample size can oc to 120. They aren't without issues though.
> 
> The most common and unavoidable issue @ 120hz is that it lowers your gamma and kind of makes your colors less accurate (Darker and less vibrant picture). Other common issue is that it causes image retention.
> 
> I don't believe there's much of any issue with 96hz. I believe it also lowers gamma to some extent but it's barely noticeable if that. Most consider it a sweet spot.


Yeah I am considering ordering one from green-sum..... he has one tagged with *pixel perfect* for 349, not tagged with pixel perfect for 339

The listing for the pixel perfect one still mentions up to 5 dead pixels.

Do these PLS panels usually come with pixel issues or is the success rate pretty good?

I got a crossover 27qw ah-ips that I paid the extra for perfect pixel and it has a dead pixel already 20 or so days later... I'm in the process of returning it.

Im guessing these come with a dvi-d wire and a plug adapter in the box?


----------



## gl0ry

accessorieswhole guarantees 0 dead pixels with his pixel perfects and it is who I got mine from... it came in 2 days..


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> accessorieswhole guarantees 0 dead pixels with his pixel perfects and it is who I got mine from... it came in 2 days..


That is who I got the ah ips one from....

It came with no dead pixels but developed one 20 or so days later....

He offered to refund my pixel perfect fee + $10 which was nice of him but I don't want a monitor with pixel issues.

I'm currently waiting a response on whether he'd prefer if I just get a refund or like to do an exchange.

If he does an exchange I'll probably ask for a qnix since they are about the same price.


----------



## gl0ry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> That is who I got the ah ips one from....
> 
> It came with no dead pixels but developed one 20 or so days later....
> 
> He offered to refund my pixel perfect fee + $10 which was nice of him but I don't want a monitor with pixel issues.
> 
> I'm currently waiting a response on whether he'd prefer if I just get a refund or like to do an exchange.
> 
> If he does an exchange I'll probably ask for a qnix since they are about the same price.


That's rather unfortunate, but to be fair he wouldn't have known it would develop that issue 20 days later.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl0ry*
> 
> That's rather unfortunate, but to be fair he wouldn't have known it would develop that issue 20 days later.


I don't blame him. I just paid $100 extra to not have to deal with any pixel issues. So it isn't on the customer to keep the item if it isn't what they paid for after only 20 days.


----------



## VENAXIS

Alright guys, as I said before I have already ordered my QNIX QX2710 Matte Perfect Pixel for $399. I've noticed that the response time differs from a seller to another. I've seen some who say the QX 2710 has a response time of 6ms (The one I ordered from accessorieswhole said that) and others say it has a response time of 8ms. I'm almost certain the QX2710 is 6ms, so why are they different? Are there more than one version of the QX2710 model?


----------



## Warpony

Update on my monitor with dirt/dust stains from accessorieswhole.

They replied:
Quote:


> "Hi Thanks for your response. The price difference between perfect pixel monitor and non-perfect pixel monitor is US $60. We can refund more US $40 as a compensation. So we can refund US $100. Hope you will consider it. If you still decide to return the monitor, we normally refund the payment after receiving the monitor. We do not send a replacement. Hope for your understanding. We will wait for your response


So they refuse to replace it? Strange.

While waiting for the above reply i opened the monitor to see if i could clean it. Sadly, once i got down to the actual panel and opened it turned out to be more than dirt. No idea what, but i couldn't get the speck off by gently cleaning it with some cotton dipped in isopropylacohol.
I put it back together and it turned out it actually wasn't in vain. The stain is still there, but ALOT smaller. If i don't actively search for it i can't find it. I bet it'll still annoy me from time to time, but overall i can live with it in its current state.

This leads me to the conclussion that I'd rather live with this tiny flaw, rather than the hassle of sending back, ordering from someone else and praying the same thing doesn't happen. So i'll take the $100 refund and get a still very nice monitor for cheaper than i expected (and it was cheap to begin with).

Big thanks for all the discussions, pictures, how-to's etc of how to dismantle the monitor. Couldn't have done it without you!


----------



## genidoi

Does anyone have a minor problem with these monitors where the colour profile resets to the default windows one every now and then when you boot up? I have an xstar at 110hz.

Its a small inconvienience as the colours are way off with the default profile, which the one I use fixes, but its annoying to have to change it to the profile every boot up.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Does anyone have a minor problem with these monitors where the colour profile resets to the default windows one every now and then when you boot up? I have an xstar at 110hz.
> 
> Its a small inconvienience as the colours are way off with the default profile, which the one I use fixes, but its annoying to have to change it to the profile every boot up.


Use http://goebish.free.fr/cpk/ and change the settings so it starts when you log in. I do, it also has the bonus of forcing your colour profile in games.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genidoi*
> 
> Does anyone have a minor problem with these monitors where the colour profile resets to the default windows one every now and then when you boot up? I have an xstar at 110hz.
> 
> Its a small inconvienience as the colours are way off with the default profile, which the one I use fixes, but its annoying to have to change it to the profile every boot up.


Google and download monitor calibration wizard or mcw. Once you make sure your ICC profile is active open mcw, give that profile a name and save it, then load it in mcw, tick the force persistent profile and it will never change again.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The issue is not so much that you got a "Perfect pixel" monitor by paying for it, but rather... would you have gotten the very same monitor, and not have paid extra for the "perfect pixel" guarantee? The numbers we've gathered so far point to the conclusion that while many people get pixel perfect monitors when they pay for them, many people also get pixel perfect monitors - without paying for it.


Yes but all the arguments I keep reading are the same tired phrases. Your argument can be used against you as well.
This is a simple matter of facts. Were you there when they shipped my monitor? Did they test it or not? I dont know...I dont act like I know what others do and dont do...I do not have a crystal ball like many of you here.
Of course for me $10 was hardly a pain to pay to have leverage if I needed it. So its pointless to debate something when some people already went to each vendor and exposed them for lying about testing the monitors. I thank you for spending all that money visiting all those vendors to expose this scam. You guys rock!

End of this topic for me....btw, not sure why people is paying $400 for PP when some vendors sell it for $319..oh well...


----------



## biggyk

Are you guys in the US getting charged duty and tax when brought over the border? I live close the the Buffalo border and just wondering if I should just have it shipped to a Kinek point in the US and go pick it up.

Fedex just told me if shipping from SK to Canada for computer equipment is no duty but 15% tax on the value.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warpony*
> 
> Update on my monitor with dirt/dust stains from accessorieswhole.
> 
> They replied:
> So they refuse to replace it? Strange.
> 
> While waiting for the above reply i opened the monitor to see if i could clean it. Sadly, once i got down to the actual panel and opened it turned out to be more than dirt. No idea what, but i couldn't get the speck off by gently cleaning it with some cotton dipped in isopropylacohol.
> I put it back together and it turned out it actually wasn't in vain. The stain is still there, but ALOT smaller. If i don't actively search for it i can't find it. I bet it'll still annoy me from time to time, but overall i can live with it in its current state.
> 
> This leads me to the conclussion that I'd rather live with this tiny flaw, rather than the hassle of sending back, ordering from someone else and praying the same thing doesn't happen. So i'll take the $100 refund and get a still very nice monitor for cheaper than i expected (and it was cheap to begin with).
> 
> Big thanks for all the discussions, pictures, how-to's etc of how to dismantle the monitor. Couldn't have done it without you!


I just get the exact same email for an IPS monitor I bought from him. I think he doesn't realize that if an item isn't as described he is liable for the return shipping not the customer.


----------



## kroken

I have some flickering at 96% how can i fix this? i found spartans post for setting up 120% what settings to use with 96?


----------



## Coree

Left the LCD repar v2.0 program running for 6 hours, no success. Seems my monitor is just faulty or something.


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warpony*
> 
> Update on my monitor with dirt/dust stains from accessorieswhole.
> 
> They replied:
> So they refuse to replace it? Strange.
> 
> While waiting for the above reply i opened the monitor to see if i could clean it. Sadly, once i got down to the actual panel and opened it turned out to be more than dirt. No idea what, but i couldn't get the speck off by gently cleaning it with some cotton dipped in isopropylacohol.
> I put it back together and it turned out it actually wasn't in vain. The stain is still there, but ALOT smaller. If i don't actively search for it i can't find it. I bet it'll still annoy me from time to time, but overall i can live with it in its current state.
> 
> This leads me to the conclussion that I'd rather live with this tiny flaw, rather than the hassle of sending back, ordering from someone else and praying the same thing doesn't happen. So i'll take the $100 refund and get a still very nice monitor for cheaper than i expected (and it was cheap to begin with).
> 
> Big thanks for all the discussions, pictures, how-to's etc of how to dismantle the monitor. Couldn't have done it without you!


That is weird since this is worse than having more than 5 pixels in one place.. I'd take the hundred as well, I'd hate to send it back and wait again for another screen that might be even worse.

Thanks for the update! Mine will be shipped tomorrow


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> End of this topic for me....btw, not sure why people is paying $400 for PP when some vendors sell it for $319..oh well...


Because I contacted overclockmonitor.com and they don't have a "perfect" Pixel Perfect policy, unlike accessorieswhole's policy. No wonder his price is the highest.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biggyk*
> 
> Are you guys in the US getting charged duty and tax when brought over the border? I live close the the Buffalo border and just wondering if I should just have it shipped to a Kinek point in the US and go pick it up.
> 
> Fedex just told me if shipping from SK to Canada for computer equipment is no duty but 15% tax on the value.


Depends on your province. You are liable for the full sales tax in your province on the value of the item.


----------



## valtopps

im tring to oc mine at 96hz? I have one NVidia card so I didn't use the patch. I open cru clicked on the 59hz, copied it put the paste never got highlighted. but some how I added another and changed the hz to 96 and add put it on top. rebooted the pc and I still at 60hz? I know im doing something wrong can someone help me please.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> im tring to oc mine at 96hz? I have one NVidia card so I didn't use the patch. I open cru clicked on the 59hz, copied it put the paste never got highlighted. but some how I added another and changed the hz to 96 and add put it on top. rebooted the pc and I still at 60hz? I know im doing something wrong can someone help me please.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


One way of changing the refresh rate I haven't seen mentioned: go to Control Panel>Display>Screen Resolution and click "advanced settings" then under the "monitor" tab change the refresh rate. Try seeing if that works.


----------



## Clexzor

with my gtx 780 i did the patch then used CRU and worked great try valtopps


----------



## XCII

I ordered a Qnix from amazon sometime around the end of October. When I fist got it, it would not work. Windows recognized it but I couldn't get a picture. After trying everything I could think of I contacted the seller and asked for a replacement. It took forever trying to work everything out with the seller, the manufacturer, and UPS since they all say it is the other's fault.

Anyway...I finally got my replacement and it works perfectly. No dead pixels and overclocks great. Has a little black light bleed but not much at all. Very happy with this one.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

http://www.amazon.com/DP2710-LED-2560x1440-samsung-Monitor/dp/B00CAJ3RI6/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1380737302&sr=1-3&keywords=qnix

so this is the same thing as the qnix right? it is like 20$ cheaper


----------



## XCII

Yes, it's basically the same thing.


----------



## mudzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/DP2710-LED-2560x1440-samsung-Monitor/dp/B00CAJ3RI6/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1380737302&sr=1-3&keywords=qnix
> 
> so this is the same thing as the qnix right? it is like 20$ cheaper


Yup, just another text


----------



## Massive17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Maybe this has been addressed before.
> 
> I just got my second X-Star. Only one dead pixel.
> 
> I followed the same instructions to OC it but the option to set refresh rate to 96hz in Nvidia control panel doesn't appear. Am I doing something wrong or is it not possible to OC both monitor?


Anyone?


----------



## valtopps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> with my gtx 780 i did the patch then used CRU and worked great try valtopps


that did the trick, thank you:thumb:


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Anyone?


Can you OC the new panel by itself? As long as your drivers are patched, and CRU has the new resolutions for that *active monitor - it should work.


----------



## hutt132

I'm seriously considering buying a Spyder4 Pro to properly calibrate my monitor. I'm at 120Hz and have gone through all the ICC profiles posted in the main post of the thread. The best one, which is the one I'm using now, still has a blueish tint and the gamma is a bit off.

Can anyone vouch for this calibrator that it works well and properly calibrates the monitor? If I get it I'll upload the ICC profile it makes to hopefully help others out with their overclocked monitors.


----------



## Massive17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Can you OC the new panel by itself? As long as your drivers are patched, and CRU has the new resolutions for that *active monitor - it should work.


When I run the patcher, it shows that everything is patched. I even made the new monitor a primary and tried patching and it still shows patched.


----------



## jerrolds

remove the patch, plug both of them in - and patch again i guess


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I'm seriously considering buying a Spyder4 Pro to properly calibrate my monitor. I'm at 120Hz and have gone through all the ICC profiles posted in the main post of the thread. The best one, which is the one I'm using now, still has a blueish tint and the gamma is a bit off.
> 
> Can anyone vouch for this calibrator that it works well and properly calibrates the monitor? If I get it I'll upload the ICC profile it makes to hopefully help others out with their overclocked monitors.


I know the home theatre community - are HARDCORE when it comes to calibration - generally dont like Sypder, they normally recommend the i1 Display Pro for entry level calibration. That or the X-Rite ColorMunki (they often say to use both)


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah I only recently learned you can calibrate TVs. Makes sense of course; just never thought about it.

I think my Panasonic plasma is new enough. Gotta find out how to get into maintenence mode or whatever the deal is...


----------



## valtopps

im at 120hz it seem to run fine, is there a way to test it? also I noticed that my screen is a little darker is this normal ?


----------



## jerrolds

Dont get into maintenence if you can avoid it. I'm guessing you have the ST60? Or the step down S60? If you have the higher VT or ZT60 (then good for you







- but look at highdefjunkines.com - they have settings you can use (if you prep, or dont prep your panel)

Using hardware calibration is superior of course - but going this way isnt bad, or hire a pro calibrator after about 500hrs.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> im at 120hz it seem to run fine, is there a way to test it? also I noticed that my screen is a little darker is this normal ?


Yes its normal, try lowering your timings - search the thread for mine if you have a radeon, or Spartan F8 if you have a geforce card. Mine barely dims at 120hz


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I know the home theatre community - are HARDCORE when it comes to calibration - generally dont like Sypder, they normally recommend the i1 Display Pro for entry level calibration. That or the X-Rite ColorMunki (they often say to use both)


So I should get this instead of the Spyder4 Pro?
http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380744755&sr=8-1&keywords=X-Rite+ColorMunki

It's $13 cheaper than the Spyder.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Because I contacted overclockmonitor.com and they don't have a "perfect" Pixel Perfect policy, unlike accessorieswhole's policy. No wonder his price is the highest.


They did when I bought it at least.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> So I should get this instead of the Spyder4 Pro?
> http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380744755&sr=8-1&keywords=X-Rite+ColorMunki
> 
> It's $13 cheaper than the Spyder.


I got that exact one 2 days ago and it is fantastic.
I did it after researching for a while and finding out it was better than the Spyder, plus it lets me calibrate my Project too!

It also has flare screen calibration and ambient light calibration options.
Really great when you get it calibrated to your environment.
Regards

BTW This is an email from a Level 2 tech support on my questions about using or not using the Ambient light option etc .
Might benefit some other users

Quote:


> In an effort to resolve your support Case, the following comment has been added. Please review this comment, and respond as indicated.
> 
> Comment: I would recommend turning off "ADC" and not using the video LUTs to adjust brightness by opening the ColorMunki Display "Preferences" window with the ColorMunki plugged in. Follow these instructions to turn these functions off:
> 1. On PC&#8230;go to "File" and click on "Preferences".
> 2. Uncheck "Achieve display luminance value using video LUTs" and "Enable ADC". Select "White LED" for your Technology Type.
> 3. Click "OK" to save these settings and close the "Preferences" window.
> 4. Select "Profile My Display".
> 5. When profiling, select the "Advanced" method and use D65 for the white point and select the bottom radio button to choose a target luminance of 120 cd/m2.
> 6. Uncheck both of the "Advanced Options" and click "Next".
> 
> The recommended display profiling settings of a D65 white point, 2.2 gamma, and 120cd/m2 has been set by the industry experts. The photographers and graphic designers of the world have determined that a monitor profiled to these parameters will most closely match a print that is viewed in a 5000K light booth (Graphic arts standard). The default gamma (aka; tone response) is set at 2.2 in ColorMunki's Preference menu found in "File" > "Preferences" from the home screen. We would recommend using the Advanced method and select the bottom option to set luminance to a specific level and then select "120". If your prints are darker than your display, feel free to try a lower display luminance setting of 100, 90, or even 80.
> 
> Whenever you are making color-critical decisions on-screen (editing images), your room lighting should be quite dim. The recommendation is 32-64 lux...described as similar to when a movie theater dims their lighting for coming attractions. At 32 lux, it will be difficult to read a newspaper...but probably still can.
> 
> The following link will take you to our ColorMunki Display profiling training video:
> 
> http://www.xrite.com/product_overview.aspx?ID=1513&Action=support&SupportID=5664
> 
> Thank you,


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> I got that exact one 2 days ago and it is fantastic.
> I did it after researching for a while and finding out it was better than the Spyder, plus it lets me calibrate my Project too!
> 
> It also has flare screen calibration and ambient light calibration options.
> Really great when you get it calibrated to your environment.
> Regards
> 
> BTW This is an email from a Level 2 tech support on my questions about using or not using the Ambient light option etc .
> Might benefit some other users


I did a write up about calibrating monitors if you're interested:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1397938/my-spyder4elite-monitor-calibrator-loan-thread/160#post_20476964


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> I got that exact one 2 days ago and it is fantastic.
> I did it after researching for a while and finding out it was better than the Spyder, plus it lets me calibrate my Project too!
> 
> It also has flare screen calibration and ambient light calibration options.
> Really great when you get it calibrated to your environment.
> Regards
> 
> BTW This is an email from a Level 2 tech support on my questions about using or not using the Ambient light option etc .
> Might benefit some other users


Thanks man. I'll probably pick that one up soon then.


----------



## Zoxc

I'd recommend ColorHug for monitor calibration if you don't mind using a Linux LiveCD/VM when calibrating. http://www.hughski.com/


----------



## kevinballer08

Did anybody get hit with a customs notice?

I ordered an X-Star from dream-seller and received a customs notice for $21.50 from fedex a week later. I live on the U.S. west coast and thought when reading through the thread there were no customs fees to the U.S.?


----------



## biggyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinballer08*
> 
> Did anybody get hit with a customs notice?
> 
> I ordered an X-Star from dream-seller and received a customs notice for $21.50 from fedex a week later. I live on the U.S. west coast and thought when reading through the thread there were no customs fees to the U.S.?


Probably tax and $20 doesnt seem like much.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinballer08*
> 
> Did anybody get hit with a customs notice?
> 
> I ordered an X-Star from dream-seller and received a customs notice for $21.50 from fedex a week later. I live on the U.S. west coast and thought when reading through the thread there were no customs fees to the U.S.?


Usually you're not suppose to get customs fee, I didn't when I ordered mine. But for the people that do get customs fee, it seems that because they ordered from dream-seller and hes obviously doing something wrong when shipping it.

Once again, avoid dream-seller!!!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinballer08*
> 
> Did anybody get hit with a customs notice?
> 
> I ordered an X-Star from dream-seller and received a customs notice for $21.50 from fedex a week later. I live on the U.S. west coast and thought when reading through the thread there were no customs fees to the U.S.?


I ordered an ips from accessorieswhole and was delivered via UPS, no customs fees.


----------



## biggyk

Does US buyers still have to pay tax? if not I may just get mine shipped across the border.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I did not pay tax


----------



## Nazrule

Finally received my monitor, paid 48 bux total for taxes and fees from DHL but this is in Canada. Anyways I'm really happy as so far with some limited testing I have zero bad pixels, little to no Back Light Bleed, also can overclock to 120hz







I was worried the most about BLB as my last monitor from Geen-Sum had bad Back Light Bleed and I cracked the screen doing the tape mod trying to fix it.

Got this new 1 from ipsledmonitors.com, it did take longer to ship and I was worried about the warranty on their site changing but in the end very happy with what I got. I won't see how they are with honoring warranties as I obviously won't be trying to get this replaced or refunded.


----------



## skilly

I noticed that the even with the pixel clock at 404mhz or less the card doesn't idle down on 5xx series NVIDIA GPUs anymore.. Does anyone know what the lowest clock speed is now in order to get the GPU to idle down, or am I doing something wrong? It idles down at 60hz but I would rather be at the highest hz possible but at lowest GPU temp while not gaming. Thank you!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> Finally received my monitor, paid 48 bux total for taxes and fees from DHL but this is in Canada. Anyways I'm really happy as so far with some limited testing I have zero bad pixels, little to no Back Light Bleed, also can overclock to 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was worried the most about BLB as my last monitor from Geen-Sum had bad Back Light Bleed and I cracked the screen doing the tape mod trying to fix it.
> 
> Got this new 1 from ipsledmonitors.com, it did take longer to ship and I was worried about the warranty on their site changing but in the end very happy with what I got. I won't see how they are with honoring warranties as I obviously won't be trying to get this replaced or refunded.


that website looks interesting.... US based return.... Return for any reason. Shipping shouldn't be bad in the US either.

Lets worst case scenario it.

order = 350$ incl shipping
RMA = 306$ for me after losing 20$ shipping and paying 24$ to ship back to cali (USPS standard post 31x11x15 box assuming 10 pound weight)
re order = 350$
so for 394$ I can take a crack at two qnix. If I get perfect one on first crack (don't really care if it oc's or not just a bonus) = 350$ obviously.

I am highly considering it.

how much about does the qnix actually weigh does anyone know? Hmm found an amazon listing says shipping weight is 19.8 so accounting for that shipping back from PA would be 34.58 so not too bad.


----------



## valtopps

is it me that im not use to it or does 96hz in game feels strange the way it looks and feels?
I think I like 60hz the best, its brighter and seems smoother. im I the only one who thinks this?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> I got that exact one 2 days ago and it is fantastic.
> I did it after researching for a while and finding out it was better than the Spyder, plus it lets me calibrate my Project too!
> 
> It also has flare screen calibration and ambient light calibration options.
> Really great when you get it calibrated to your environment.
> Regards
> 
> BTW This is an email from a Level 2 tech support on my questions about using or not using the Ambient light option etc .
> Might benefit some other users


I find 120 cd/m2 is way to dull for gaming, i'm using a spyder elite 3 with no issues, calibrated many displays with it, i find 180 cd/m2 is as low as i would go for gaming with ips screens and PLS screens generally need to be around the 250 cd/m2 mark to have a satisfactory level of brightness and clarity for games like bf3 or there are simply to many dark spots where i can't see people that can see me. It's all personal preference when it comes to brightness and gaming unless doing photo work then the recommended brightness is 120 cd/m2. Like i said i generally wouldn't go below 180 or above 250 cd/m2 based on the display i'm using. This is based on about 15 monitors/ tv's i have calibrated in the last 6 to 12 months.

On the ips / pls factor, i don't get how people continually call pls the same as ips, they are very different. IPS is bright, very bright, while pls is slightly over saturated with darker blacks. They are actually complete opposites of each other in many ways. Again it's personal preference to what each individual likes better, but to call them the same is misleading and completely false.


----------



## mudzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> is it me that im not use to it or does 96hz in game feels strange the way it looks and feels?
> I think I like 60hz the best, its brighter and seems smoother. im I the only one who thinks this?


Your eyes are too slow







Also when overclocking you should use another ICC proifle.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> Your eyes are too slow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also when overclocking you should use another ICC proifle.


ya try one of the color profiles...when I upped mine to 110hz changed color profile wow big difference its awesome for sure...









huge difference in gaming from 2560x1440 on 60hz


----------



## kroken

I have some flickering at 96hz right upper corner, how can i fix this? also im using the ASUS PB278Q V3 profile is it the best for 96hz?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> I have some flickering at 96hz right upper corner, how can i fix this? also im using the ASUS PB278Q V3 profile is it the best for 96hz?


What do you prefer the qnix or the asus? cheers.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> What do you prefer the qnix or the asus? cheers.


if you mean monitor vs monitor they are both great...the pb278 has very accurate colors when calibrated right however i cannot notice a diffrence with a good color profile on the qnix...
Also for gaming i prefer the Qnix becuase you can defiantly tell a diffrence in gaming from 60hz to 90+hz

easier to see stuff etc. plus i can run without vsync on the qnix with little to no screen tearing which is awesom for fps shooters.


----------



## kroken

I dont own the asus im using the asus ICC profile for my qnix! anyone knows how to get rid of the flickering as as q above?


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I find 120 cd/m2 is way to dull for gaming, i'm using a spyder elite 3 with no issues, calibrated many displays with it, i find 180 cd/m2 is as low as i would go for gaming with ips screens and PLS screens generally need to be around the 250 cd/m2 mark to have a satisfactory level of brightness and clarity for games like bf3 or there are simply to many dark spots where i can't see people that can see me. It's all personal preference when it comes to brightness and gaming unless doing photo work then the recommended brightness is 120 cd/m2. Like i said i generally wouldn't go below 180 or above 250 cd/m2 based on the display i'm using. This is based on about 15 monitors/ tv's i have calibrated in the last 6 to 12 months.
> 
> On the ips / pls factor, i don't get how people continually call pls the same as ips, they are very different. IPS is bright, very bright, while pls is slightly over saturated with darker blacks. They are actually complete opposites of each other in many ways. Again it's personal preference to what each individual likes better, but to call them the same is misleading and completely false.


Well my main reason for the Monitor is for photo editing plus I am a Home Theater guy as well so I do not like over bright images so 120 works great for me. In fact it is 9 to 10 clicks from lowest brightness for me which was exactly what I was using before I got the x-rite to test it









I only plan to use it for gaming for games that just wont work with 3D vision but even my quick tests of Metro and Crysis 3 looked great so guess is all a matter of preferences.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> Your eyes are too slow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also when overclocking you should use another ICC proifle.


Yeah, I have profiles calibrated for each Hz setting as it will look too dark if you leave the same settings plus the difference in smoothness should be very obvious.
I can post my calibrated ICS files here but of course it varies so is not going to be perfect for everyone.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> I dont own the asus im using the asus ICC profile for my qnix! anyone knows how to get rid of the flickering as as q above?


hmm i dont think a icc profile will resolve flickering. I think that the panels limit beuase mine will 110-115hz but not 120hz as it will flicker but 110hz is great for me since i only use a single gpu setup vs sli.
and cannot reach such frames anyways.
Also unless you can achieve solid fps i saw basical no diffrence from 90hz to 110hz but im sure its there just not noticeable to me.







but anything past 60hz defiantly makes a diffrence. So dont get bummed if yours cant achieve over 100hz


----------



## Battou62

Forgive me as I have not read this whole thread, but will these panels run @ 96 hertz out of the box? Can I get some feedback on how nice/noticeable this is? I feel like I have been stuck on 60 hertz forever


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Battou62*
> 
> Forgive me as I have not read this whole thread, but will these panels run @ 96 hertz out of the box? Can I get some feedback on how nice/noticeable this is? I feel like I have been stuck on 60 hertz forever


Yep most will do 90hz+ prety easily mine will do 110hz with CRU no custom resolution needed just straight overclock
















And yes after using a pb278q 2560x1440 60hz i can defiantly tell a diffrence...alot better for fps shooters


----------



## Mbalmer

Mine is in transit. Looks like it won't be delivered until Monday. I was hoping to be able to play with it this weekend. My goal is to hit 96hz. Anything over that will be icing on the cake. Waiting for cool stuff sucks.


----------



## biggyk

Was on over clockmonitors.com and sent an email about their pixel policy. I had the qx2710 from their daily deals and $10 off at 319 in my cart. I watched it jump to 339 during yesterday evening. Sure takes a while to respond. Does anyone know what their definition of pixel perfect is?


----------



## kroken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> hmm i dont think a icc profile will resolve flickering. I think that the panels limit beuase mine will 110-115hz but not 120hz as it will flicker but 110hz is great for me since i only use a single gpu setup vs sli.
> and cannot reach such frames anyways.
> Also unless you can achieve solid fps i saw basical no diffrence from 90hz to 110hz but im sure its there just not noticeable to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but anything past 60hz defiantly makes a diffrence. So dont get bummed if yours cant achieve over 100hz


Ofc not. but there is no flickering at 120hz but at 96 there is lol.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kroken*
> 
> Ofc not. but there is no flickering at 120hz but at 96 there is lol.


oh ha i gotcha my bad ill let one of the otehr guys that has messed with these chime in im sure they will respond shortly


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biggyk*
> 
> Was on over clockmonitors.com and sent an email about their pixel policy. I had the qx2710 from their daily deals and $10 off at 319 in my cart. I watched it jump to 339 during yesterday evening. Sure takes a while to respond. Does anyone know what their definition of pixel perfect is?


This is from many emails I exchanged with them. They were very quick to reply at all times but remember the time zones.
Quote:


> Regarding perfect pixel policy, we will update it on our website. Anyway, perfect pixel monitors allows 0 dead pixel. Under the manufacturer's policy, only bright dots are considered as dead pixel, but since we test every single monitor. And we try our best to send 'literally no dead pixel' monitors.


Still better to get that from them again in case things have changed that way you have it on writing. But it looks like the normal PP policy to me.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> if you mean monitor vs monitor they are both great...the pb278 has very accurate colors when calibrated right however i cannot notice a diffrence with a good color profile on the qnix...
> Also for gaming i prefer the Qnix becuase you can defiantly tell a diffrence in gaming from 60hz to 90+hz
> 
> easier to see stuff etc. plus i can run without vsync on the qnix with little to no screen tearing which is awesom for fps shooters.


Cheers man, i owned the asus pb278q and found there was a fair bit of black crush, are you finding the qnix similar in that regard? I'm hoping by going with a glossy panel over matte that might help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> Mine is in transit. Looks like it won't be delivered until Monday. I was hoping to be able to play with it this weekend. My goal is to hit 96hz. Anything over that will be icing on the cake. Waiting for cool stuff sucks.


Tell me about it. I'm hoping like hell mine arrives before the long weekend over here in Australia. It has made it from south korea to New south Wales tonight, hopefully they can get the remaining flight over and done with snappily. Think i'm asking a bit much lol, i only ordered it monday night and want it by friday lol.


----------



## dorcopio

Do I need CRU, patch and third part softwares even for 96Hz?


----------



## Mbalmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Cheers man, i owned the asus pb278q and found there was a fair bit of black crush, are you finding the qnix similar in that regard? I'm hoping by going with a glossy panel over matte that might help.
> Tell me about it. I'm hoping like hell mine arrives before the long weekend over here in Australia. It has made it from south korea to New south Wales tonight, hopefully they can get the remaining flight over and done with snappily. Think i'm asking a bit much lol, i only ordered it monday night and want it by friday lol.


I ordered mine on Monday too, but It doesn't even look like it has made it out of S. Korea yet. Originally FedEx had on their tracking that I would get it today, but then yesterday they moved it to Monday. I think they are just messing with me at this point.

Hope you get yours before the weekend and enjoy it.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> I ordered mine on Monday too, but It doesn't even look like it has made it out of S. Korea yet. Originally FedEx had on their tracking that I would get it today, but then yesterday they moved it to Monday. I think they are just messing with me at this point.
> 
> Hope you get yours before the weekend and enjoy it.


Well mine says its not expected until Tuesday but it has made good progress after sitting 30 minutes down the road from the seller for the first day lol.

Hope you get yours tomorrow too lol , pixel perfect and issue free!! Good karma for friday monitors!!!! lol.


----------



## jerrolds

Getting stuff shipped before the long weekend is against policy for delivery companies - im pretty sure


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Getting stuff shipped before the long weekend is against policy for delivery companies - im pretty sure


Shut your dirty mouth lol. Positive thoughts, and constant refreshing of the tracking info will get it here quicker


----------



## shaolin95

Hope you guys get them soon..i hate getting my stuff delayed like that so I know the feeling :/


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Hope you guys get them soon..i hate getting my stuff delayed like that so I know the feeling :/


I was just trying to remember earlier today the last thing i was excited for and couldn't wait to get... It was my galaxy s4, funny how once you have it a few weeks you couldn't care less lol.


----------



## shaolin95

hahahah while I mostly care , yeah some times even the same moment I get it, I test it then go do something else but I feel happy is there already








Lately I only buy stuff I really want so it makes it more exciting than before when I will just buy random crap from ebay


----------



## valtopps

yes, anything over 60hz


----------



## valtopps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Do I need CRU, patch and third part softwares even for 96Hz?


yes anything over 60hz


----------



## biggyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> This is from many emails I exchanged with them. They were very quick to reply at all times but remember the time zones.
> Still better to get that from them again in case things have changed that way you have it on writing. But it looks like the normal PP policy to me.


I sent an email at 7am their time yeaterday Hopefully I hear back tonight.


----------



## paulkon

How many holidays does S. Korea have? They seem to revert to holidays or vacations when they can't meet shipping times or ebay case resolution replies.


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> How many holidays does S. Korea have? They seem to revert to holidays or vacations when they can't meet shipping times or ebay case resolution replies.


Up to 15 days off. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Public_holidays_in_South_Korea

We have in the US have roughly 9 to 11 depending on what businesses give Good Friday and Christmas Eve off


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Do I need CRU, patch and third part softwares even for 96Hz?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> yes anything over 60hz


This is untrue, you can create custom resolutions/refresh rates in the Nvidia Control Panel without using any patches or 3rd party applications. ATI users may need to use CRU and patch, but neither are required for Nvidia users.

The CRU offers a few more timing options than the Nvidia Control Panel however


----------



## shaolin95

But youj dont get all of them in your games though. At least with my Nvidia cards I have 3 created but only 96Hz shows as an option besides 60


----------



## biggyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> How many holidays does S. Korea have? They seem to revert to holidays or vacations when they can't meet shipping times or ebay case resolution replies.


Lol...... I did forget about the holiday today... Or well last night.


----------



## Camberwell

My QX2710 Evo II is on hold in Hong Kong after clearing customs there, hoping it's just waiting to be put on a plane.....


----------



## Aftermath2006

so i have been gaming for awhile on 120hz with the Qnix then all the sudden today i go to fire up a game and nothing above 60 hz will work just tried 120hz 110hz 96hz 120hz get green stuff 110 and 96 screen jumps 60 hz still works fine anybody got any ideas

nobody got ant ideas on what is up with this also when i turned monitor on to day it flashed red green blue then everything started up fine but overclocks still no longer work


----------



## timaishu

Do higher refresh rates have any effect if your fps is still below 60? Like, if you average 45 in modded skyrim, and overclock to 96/120hz, is there any difference compared to 60hz even though you havnt reached the 60hz 60fps cap?


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Do higher refresh rates have any effect if your fps is still below 60? Like, if you average 45 in modded skyrim, and overclock to 96/120hz, is there any difference compared to 60hz even though you havnt reached the 60hz 60fps cap?


if its a constant 60fps then no, but lots of people run with vsync off (since it can introduce input lag) - and anything above 60fps theres screen tearing @60hz...65fps on a 120hz display will still look better cuz of no tearing.


----------



## hutt132

Well, I ordered the X-Rite CMUNDIS ColorMunki Display. I'll let you guys know if I like it when it gets here and I'll upload some ICC profiles.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> if its a constant 60fps then no, but lots of people run with vsync off (since it can introduce input lag) - and anything above 60fps theres screen tearing @60hz...65fps on a 120hz display will still look better cuz of no tearing.


I understand that, but if the fps is lower than 60, would there be any difference compared to a higher refresh rate? Only a couple of my games make it higher than 60fps(aside from older titles) so I am trying to justify a reason for or against returning mine and trying for another that may be able to overclock(mine cannot go past 60hz without issues).


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> I understand that, but if the fps is lower than 60, would there be any difference compared to a higher refresh rate? Only a couple of my games make it higher than 60fps(aside from older titles) so I am trying to justify a reason for or against returning mine and trying for another that may be able to overclock(mine cannot go past 60hz without issues).


Still yes. Since the screen is refreshing more times in a second, you get the next frame faster, so the input lag is reduced. Though this isn't massively pronounced, the biggest effect is far less tearing, you don't have no use vsync anymore. Been using a 120Hz monitor for a year, its always in 120Hz mode but alot of the time just cap my games to 60FPS rather than bounce between 120 and 60.

My Qnix has just cleared customs, hopefully I can get it on a Saturday delivery.


----------



## junkrok

No, there would be no perceivable difference if you are running at 60FPS. Less input lag is a weak argument, the screen will display as fast as the source allows. How would it display it faster if the GPU has not provided new data?


----------



## TheSilentCircus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> if its a constant 60fps then no, but lots of people run with vsync off (since it can introduce input lag) - and anything above 60fps theres screen tearing @60hz...65fps on a 120hz display will still look better cuz of no tearing.


True about the input lag, but false about the tearing. (try to enable or force triple-buffering to help with any input lag with v-sync on)

Even if your FPS was below a monitor's refresh rate, disabling v-sync can still cause tearing to occur although a higher refresh rate can mean less chance of tearing. It is like console games that run at 30fps but constantly have tearing problems.


----------



## mudzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> I understand that, but if the fps is lower than 60, would there be any difference compared to a higher refresh rate? Only a couple of my games make it higher than 60fps(aside from older titles) so I am trying to justify a reason for or against returning mine and trying for another that may be able to overclock(mine cannot go past 60hz without issues).


Well im not sure that it not being overclockable is eligable for a refund? And no there´s no difference between a 60 hz monitor and a 120hz monitor at that low fps, the only difference is that you will be used to 120hz if you have it so it will feel a lot more unnatural than if you would be used to 60hz.


----------



## jerrolds

Nope..lower than your refresh rate shouldnt look different. Unless your running double buffer vsync, then anything below 60fps will drop down to a multiple of 60, which is 30fps. On a 120hz display, i suppose anything lower than 120fps will drop down to 60fps.

I think as long as you use triple buffer or vysnc off, lower than 60fps will look the same on a 60hz or 120hz if all other factors are the same


----------



## genidoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Use http://goebish.free.fr/cpk/ and change the settings so it starts when you log in. I do, it also has the bonus of forcing your colour profile in games.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Google and download monitor calibration wizard or mcw. Once you make sure your ICC profile is active open mcw, give that profile a name and save it, then load it in mcw, tick the force persistent profile and it will never change again.


Thanks guys, problem solved. +rep to both of you.


----------



## andyd1

Hi. I received the Qnix monitor last week and I can't believe I've gone this long at lower resolutions. Anyway, I bought this mount based on the FAQ in the OP...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

But it looks like the screws don't fit. Am I supposed to get a hold of shorter screws?


----------



## Kokin

Are the increased prices due to the Korean holiday, hence the drop in production/supply? Seems silly that in a matter of 2~3 weeks, the prices went from $250~290 up to $330~$400. I was thinking of selling my IPS Eyefinity setup for one of these guys, but that was when it was at around $270.

Do you guys think the prices will drop again?


----------



## valtopps

not now, there in demand


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Are the increased prices due to the Korean holiday, hence the drop in production/supply? Seems silly that in a matter of 2~3 weeks, the prices went from $250~290 up to $330~$400. I was thinking of selling my IPS Eyefinity setup for one of these guys, but that was when it was at around $270.
> 
> Do you guys think the prices will drop again?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e still $299...from Dream-Seller tho - might want to tell him to mark it correctly so you dont get dinged on import


----------



## Kokin

I've been keeping up with the thread since about a month ago, so I want to avoid dream-seller just because of the import fee/tax that people are getting hit by when purchasing from him.

My situation is that I want to sell 2 of my 3 IPS monitors (for $300~350) and use that money to buy a Qnix (X-Star isn't in production anymore). I still wanted to use my 3rd IPS monitor as a secondary to the Qnix, but at these current prices, I wouldn't be able to get a Qnix without selling all 3 monitors.

For me, I can sell 2 of my current monitors for a Qnix, but I don't feel like it's worth it if I have sell all 3 as I originally paid $700+ for all 3 in 2012 and I still have a larger resolution when using all 3 (3240x1920 in portrait).


----------



## kroken

Ok Im giving up this crap after 6h, tried to get rid of some bleeding in corner, tried everything listed in this thread but ended up with more bleed instead.... The frame looks like a drunk grandma after My tools lol


----------



## Coldplayer

Got a QNIX 2710 and everytime i restart my pc i have to go to screen resolution and detect monitor for it to go to 120hz. Anyone know a workaround for this?


----------



## mboner1

Looks like im not gonna get mine today. Got the long weekend to get through now. Boooooooooooo!!!!!!!


----------



## youyou

CROSSOVER
QNIX
X-star
? which would be the best and should I buy a perfect pixel, i do want perfect pixels








& which one would have less bleed.
& which model # 6ms o,o please


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youyou*
> 
> CROSSOVER
> QNIX
> X-star
> ? which would be the best and should I buy a perfect pixel, i do want perfect pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & which one would have less bleed.
> & which model # 6ms o,o please


pixel perfect is a complete scam

http://www.overclock.net/t/1430173/so-i-think-my-korean-1440p-ah-ips-developed-a-bad-pixel-already-any-advice


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youyou*
> 
> CROSSOVER
> QNIX
> X-star
> ? which would be the best and should I buy a perfect pixel, i do want perfect pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & which one would have less bleed.
> & which model # 6ms o,o please


Read the thread. All these questions have been answered plenty of times already


----------



## youyou

nvm got it Thank's


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Cheers man, i owned the asus pb278q and found there was a fair bit of black crush, are you finding the qnix similar in that regard? I'm hoping by going with a glossy panel over matte that might help.
> Tell me about it. I'm hoping like hell mine arrives before the long weekend over here in Australia. It has made it from south korea to New south Wales tonight, hopefully they can get the remaining flight over and done with snappily. Think i'm asking a bit much lol, i only ordered it monday night and want it by friday lol.


Just to make sure, black crush meaning inability to distinguish the darkest black squares here? http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php
If so, then no. I can make out all black squares.


----------



## CrazyAsian

Just got my Qx2710 today, PP from overclockmonitor.com

No dead pixels or anything, no backlight bleeding as far as I can see, monitor is great, fast shipping, great communication, stand isn't as bad as people make it out to be, overclocks to 120hz no problemo!


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyAsian*
> 
> Just got my Qx2710 today, PP from overclockmonitor.com
> 
> No dead pixels or anything, no backlight bleeding as far as I can see, monitor is great, fast shipping, great communication, stand isn't as bad as people make it out to be, overclocks to 120hz no problemo!


Cool man! I got mine from there too. Can you post a pic of your screen in dark room showing a black image. I still dont know if my case of BLB is bad or normal but I do see two spotlights near the top. Is my only disappointment although I did get $30 off for that and since I mostly use for photo editing and not movies I am mostly fine but still I would like to fix it...I just need to man up lol
Thanks!


----------



## Woned

Using the guide on 120hz.com I can overclock to 120hz without any artifacts however the pixel clock goes up to 459 (or maybe 469 I cant remember).

Do you guys recommend keeping the clock below 450 at all times? I put it at 114hz which is about 445 pixel clock for now.


----------



## taizzle

ok guys sorry if i'm posting at the wrong thread, please point me to the right direction if i'm at the wrong place. Currently running qnix QX2710 overclocked to 120hz best monitor i ever owned. No dead pixels no back light bleeding luckily got a perfect one. But when i use the "atikmdag-patcher" to overclock my monitor something strange happens. i can overlcock to 120hz or 96hz no problem. All games that i run play like a charm no problems there. But when i try to play videos from curtain site such as "kickstarter" or video previews on steam it only plays the audio and where the video should be is just black youtube plays just fine though. i did some research and it seem only mp4 videos does this. as soon as i restore back to normal before the atikmdag-patcher the video plays fine but the patcher is the problem for sure. someone please i bought this monitor to run at 120hz right now at 60hz there is no problems "atikmdag-patcher" is the problem. anyone with the solution please respond~~ specs hd 7950, intel 3570k, motherboard gd65


----------



## CrazyAsian

Just some quick photos with my phone, pretty sure the "bleeding" is these pics are just from phone quality + angle. Cant actually notice it with my eyes.



http://imgur.com/CWXjq


Also, managed to get mine to 120hz no problem, still cant get the colour profiles down though =P What settings are you using atm?


----------



## Magariz

Anyone know ways to adjust the stand for the Qnix QX2710? Has a wicked lean to it. Currently have it propped up on a folded steel series mouse mat lol.


----------



## CrazyAsian

I just put one hand down on the stand, base shaft in thumb webbing, and the other hand tilting it from the topcentreback


----------



## Magariz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woned*
> 
> Using the guide on 120hz.com I can overclock to 120hz without any artifacts however the pixel clock goes up to 459 (or maybe 469 I cant remember).
> 
> Do you guys recommend keeping the clock below 450 at all times? I put it at 114hz which is about 445 pixel clock for now.


Haven't played with mine too much yet, but I get artifacting at 120hz. Perfect at 75hz, haven't tried anything else yet but gonna be following this thread to see if there are any kung fu ninja tricks some people got. These monitors are amazing though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyAsian*
> 
> I just put one hand down on the stand, base shaft in thumb webbing, and the other hand tilting it from the topcentreback


I will double check when I get home, but I dont think it has a pivot. Pretty sure it's stationary, but like I said didn't look very close as I didn't have much time last night. lol


----------



## CrazyAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magariz*
> 
> Haven't played with mine too much yet, but I get artifacting at 120hz. Perfect at 75hz, haven't tried anything else yet but gonna be following this thread to see if there are any kung fu ninja tricks some people got. These monitors are amazing though.
> I will double check when I get home, but I dont think it has a pivot. Pretty sure it's stationary, but like I said didn't look very close as I didn't have much time last night. lol


It tilts, it's just takes a little elbow grease.


----------



## Magariz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyAsian*
> 
> It tilts, it's just takes a little elbow grease.


So it's basically like installing ram the first time, if you think youre gonna break it use just a little more force and you got it.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magariz*
> 
> So it's basically like installing ram the first time, if you think youre gonna break it use just a little more force and you got it.


Ya it's been mentioned a million times, the stands are stiff but will pivot forward or back with some force.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyAsian*
> 
> Just some quick photos with my phone, pretty sure the "bleeding" is these pics are just from phone quality + angle. Cant actually notice it with my eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/CWXjq
> 
> 
> Also, managed to get mine to 120hz no problem, still cant get the colour profiles down though =P What settings are you using atm?


That is a LOT better than mine for sure :/
I am thinking on trying over the weekend.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyAsian*
> 
> Just some quick photos with my phone, pretty sure the "bleeding" is these pics are just from phone quality + angle. Cant actually notice it with my eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/CWXjq
> 
> 
> Also, managed to get mine to 120hz no problem, still cant get the colour profiles down though =P What settings are you using atm?


That BLB is almost perfect congrats - theres a *tiny* and i mean almost insignificant near the middle right...but its not worth opening up imo.


----------



## skilly

Is anyone with a NVIDIA 5xx series card having a problem idling down? It used to idle down for me at 404mhz pixel clock but now it just stays at max all of the time. I didnt change anything that I know of. I did install the new drivers but also tried the older ones, older patcher, older CRU again with no luck. My setting in nvidia contols in power mgmt is on adaptive, I cannot think of what else it could be. It used to idle down no problem. And it idles down immediately if i put it on 60hz.. Any feedback is appreciated. Thank you!


----------



## CrazyAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> That is a LOT better than mine for sure :/
> I am thinking on trying over the weekend.


Just looked at the bottom of my screen and I can see that the frame is pretty damn bent, luckily it hasnt caused me any BLB, but from what I've read you can hopefully fix it with little to no issues =P

Good luck on that!


----------



## Mbalmer

My new one is, according to FedEx tracking, on the truck for delivery today!!! It was in Anchorage, Alaska, yesterday and now it is here in little Southeast Iowa. Pretty cool when you think about it.

I plan to overclock it today/tonight. I will post my results. I have the X-Star coming.


----------



## Magariz

Are there any games that don't support 2560x1440? Like fairly recent games, not titles from 15 years ago lol.


----------



## shaolin95

I havent seen one. Got any in mind? I can check if I have it


----------



## jerrolds

I havent seen any game that couldnt support 2560x1440....*maybe* Dark Souls..but theres mods where you can increase the resolution/frame limit. Some games wont support Ultra widescreen aspect ratios like 2650x1080...I couldnt get Splinter Cell Blacklist working at that custom resolution, it always tries to stretch it.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I havent seen any game that couldnt support 2560x1440....*maybe* Dark Souls..but theres mods where you can increase the resolution/frame limit. Some games wont support Ultra widescreen aspect ratios like 2650x1080...I couldnt get Splinter Cell Blacklist working at that custom resolution, it always tries to stretch it.


I was just about to post about DaS.







Dark Souls works perfect at 1440 with the DSFix, just the FPS and hz are still at 60 unless the author updated again, i haven't check in a while. Dark Souls would be 720 regardless of monitor anyways without DSFix.

I cannot think of any games that do not run at 1440 and I have tried a lot. Never tried Splinter Cell though, good to know. .


----------



## BroJin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marsha11*
> 
> Mid way through unistalling drivers the screen has gone into a mix of yellow and red lines and bars.
> 
> The monitor is 2 months old from Korea (Accessories Whole on ebay). Its been overclocked from day one @ 110hz. Never had any issues with it until now.
> 
> Im on another monitor now and alls well. As soon as i switch to the QNIX and reset my pc it show the ASUS motherboard boot screen ok and then the windows logo, but when it gets to the login page/screen its a scrambled screen.???
> 
> How can it show the boot up and logo screen ok but anything after this is messed up?


Anyone having this issue when installing new Video Driver?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1431325/has-my-qnix-2710-died/30


----------



## Cookybiscuit

.


----------



## PhutileEfforts

*1440p OC'd monitor owners, can you run Dead Space 1 for me?*
95% of all my games work on my 100hz oc'd 1440p qnix monitor, except for Dead Space 1, Madden 08, and a few others.

you can hear the sound when you launch the game, but hte monitor cycles through all its colors. tried editing ini files so it matche smy hz/rez at launch and still same thing.

*
most of my games work fine, just curious, can someone try out the original dead space for me on a OC monitor see if the monitor plays sound but not picture?*


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhutileEfforts*
> 
> *1440p OC'd monitor owners, can you run Dead Space 1 for me?*
> 95% of all my games work on my 100hz oc'd 1440p qnix monitor, except for Dead Space 1, Madden 08, and a few others.
> 
> you can hear the sound when you launch the game, but hte monitor cycles through all its colors. tried editing ini files so it matche smy hz/rez at launch and still same thing.
> 
> *
> most of my games work fine, just curious, can someone try out the original dead space for me on a OC monitor see if the monitor plays sound but not picture?*


why are you playing a 5 year old sports game? im just curious. Do what you want just asking.


----------



## shaolin95

I think I have Dead Space 1. I will give it a shot tonight.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magariz*
> 
> Are there any games that don't support 2560x1440? Like fairly recent games, not titles from 15 years ago lol.


There are a few, but most are totally fine. For example, Darksiders and Darksiders 2 do not nativity support 1440p, but there are ways to force the resolution in most games.

In the case of the Darksiders series, you have to edit some Hexadecimal values in order to enable 2560x1440.

Check out http://www.wsgf.org/ for information on how to enable 1440p for the few modern games you come across that don't support it


----------



## PhutileEfforts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> why are you playing a 5 year old sports game? im just curious. Do what you want just asking.


I don't own any consoles. and Madden 08 was the last one they made for PC, but some guy off on NFL forums updates rosters each week, so basically its up to date roster/stat wise.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Got mine today, pretty happy with it, overclocks to 96Hz fine, 120Hz gets horizontal green lines occasionally but not too bothered, don't use it as it dims the screen more I'd like. Not sure how good or bad my BLB is though, has a tiny bit at the bottom of the screen that doesn't seem to affect anything when in use, has quite alot at the right side that can be seen in darker scenes. The BLB is yellow and gets worse if I press it, that means I can fix it by taking it apart, no?


Probably. I believe yellow is usually indicative of a bent spot on metal frame inside on panel? Could be mixing that up tho and it's the white. At any rate you should open it and at least investigate.


----------



## Mbalmer

I just got mine in about an hour ago and it clocked to 120hz no problem. I just went through the Nvidia control panel and didn't download the patch. Is that ok? My pixel clock is 483.xxx. Is that acceptable? I am going to try 144hz just for fun, but not sure if I should download the patch or not (or just leave the good thing I have going alone).

I have a little backlight bleed at the top center that I can't see when gaming or when on websites. I saw when running a youtube video that checks for BLB. Also, during that test I think I saw a struck green pixel, but I don't see it while gaming or surfing, so I am not going to try to find it because then it will drive me nuts.

Overall I am very, very happy with it (after an hour of use) and glad that I got a new one even though I had a QNIX 2700. It would only overclock to 65hz.

Thanks.

EDIT: I tried 144 and a pop up box said that my monitor doesn't support that. Tried 130hz and lines were everywhere. Tried 125hz and there were alot of lines, but not as many as 130hz.

I'm done with it. Looks awesome.

Someone let me know, please, if my pixel clock is ok. I read about the numbers somewhere in the last few days, but now I can't find where that was.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

so im thinking about going two or three monitor setup with crossfire 7950's I know I can only use the outputs on the first card. I'm already using dvi so I have two display port and an hdmi left. my card has mini display ports and comes with mini to full size DP adapter. im guessing this will work since it is just a physical adapter.

Does this monitor actually have all the outputs listed on the page? DVI HDMI DP ?

How do you switch between these inputs, OSD? if it has an OSD i'm guessing it has more input lag than the standard dvi only monitor?

Can the multi input models be overclocked?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPort-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-DP-PC-Monitor-/111103342614?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de467816


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Is it normal for the power brick to be quite hot?


----------



## Mbalmer

Mine is pretty warm. I would guess that it is normal.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Right thanks. I'd planned to hide it away taped to the back of my desk, now I'm not so sure.


----------



## Mbalmer

I would let some air get to it just to be on the safe side of things. Mine is setting on top of my desk tucked behind my right speaker.


----------



## PhutileEfforts

*1440p OC'd monitor owners, can you run Dead Space 1 for me?
95% of all my games work on my 100hz oc'd 1440p qnix monitor, except for Dead Space 1, Madden 08, and a few others.*

you can hear the sound when you launch the game, but hte monitor cycles through all its colors. tried editing ini files so it matche smy hz/rez at launch and still same thing.

*most of my games work fine, just curious, can someone try out the original dead space for me on a OC monitor see if the monitor plays sound but not picture?*

Anyone test this for me?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Have you tried setting display scaling to be done by the GPU?


----------



## PhutileEfforts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Have you tried setting display scaling to be done by the GPU?


nope will try now, will edit if it works, thanks man!


----------



## PhutileEfforts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Have you tried setting display scaling to be done by the GPU?


nope still boots up the dead space game but the monitor cycles through all the colors u can hear the sound fine... all the other games work fine at my OC... not sure whats up, reinstalled several times, a few other games do it too.

might be amd? some guy said dead space 1 worked fine on his 120hz oc but he has nvidia... hmm might have to try nvidia see if it works.


----------



## timaishu

Hey guys, I figured I would share this with you. So I have been back and forth trying to decide if I want to roll the dice and try for another monitor and I just cannot decide. The monitor so far has no dead pixels as everytime I think I find one it turns out to be dust. The blb isn't bad enough to bother me and I am sure if I did the tape mode it would be better. Anyways here is something interesting I learned from the rep at ipsledmonitors.com
Quote:


> Sorry for the delay. I asked our QNIX rep about overclocking. We cannot guarantee overclocking on every monitor as it vastly depends on configuration. The main board, DPL-2560LS.REV.01, was designed by Display Land Co. Ltd. for 60Hz operation. It just so happens that the board will process the extra data for higher refresh rates, although not flawlessly in most cases. Timing, temperature, and even impedance can effect the performance.
> 
> A pixel/ frame error at higher refresh rates is not indicative of a panel issue. The panel and TCON board (Samsung parts) are not involved in producing those "mistakes". It's likely the main board is not keeping up at higher refresh rates, it's actually atypical when it does (although that is preferred by enthusiasts).


I am thinking this might be my answer. I asked to see if they can put me in contact with the manufacturer to see if its possible to purchase the board itself. We will see.. I have 4 days left to decide what I want to do. Assuming I could actually purchase the board for not too much, that might be the best compromise. I dunno....


----------



## Duffsta82

Hi guys i brought My XStar from Dream-Seller last monday arrived this week on wednesday to New Zealand. No BLB can only overclock to 96hz gets pink lines after that. But i have a problem the box was damaged on the way over didn't have any bubble wrap around it!! and i have a White large amount of pixels damaged that i can see with any black back ground or dark color.. Seems fine when iam on facebook or a white background here are the pictures


http://imgur.com/ii8h0

Ive emailed Dream-Seller and they have sent me details to send it back but not sure what will happen with a refund since i payed for a pixel perfect monitor.. I am thinking i will buy anther off http://www.overclockmonitor.com/ and ask for my refund and if they refuse when they receive it i will do a chargeback to get my money back depending on how good they are..

Can anyone tell me what kinda dead pixels i have in those pics??? really a pain when watching a movie or playing a game..

thanks guys


----------



## PhutileEfforts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duffsta82*
> 
> Hi guys i brought My XStar from Dream-Seller last monday arrived this week on wednesday to New Zealand. No BLB can only overclock to 96hz gets pink lines after that. But i have a problem the box was damaged on the way over didn't have any bubble wrap around it!! and i have a White large amount of pixels damaged that i can see with any black back ground or dark color.. Seems fine when iam on facebook or a white background here are the pictures
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ii8h0
> 
> Ive emailed Dream-Seller and they have sent me details to send it back but not sure what will happen with a refund since i payed for a pixel perfect monitor.. I am thinking i will buy anther off http://www.overclockmonitor.com/ and ask for my refund and if they refuse when they receive it i will do a chargeback to get my money back depending on how good they are..
> 
> Can anyone tell me what kinda dead pixels i have in those pics??? really a pain when watching a movie or playing a game..
> 
> thanks guys


looks like backlight bleed kinda... hmm maybe not, need to see it on diff colors... try red and greed bright backgrounds and post new pics.


----------



## Duffsta82

Thanks for your reply PhutileEfforts, I just tired this pixel test at http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php Cant see it on red or green or white or any color other than black or grey i think... The hole in the box aligns with where the damage is on the screen hmmmm.. Would backlight bleed be in the one little spot ? when watching a movie i can see it at times and gaming when the background is black, if i turn up the brightness it gets worse i think..


----------



## Duffsta82

So if it isn't a damaged dead pixel and its a backlight or damage from shipping over wouldn't that still count as a return?? They are paying to send it back with fedex even if say to bad it isn't a bunch of dead pixels and anther problem i could just chargeback to my credit card and fight it i guess?


----------



## PhutileEfforts

if its aligned with where the box was damaged, then yeah u need a replacement... contact seller... they will prob give u the runaround tho or make u pay the $100+ to ship it back for a replacement... :/


----------



## Duffsta82

Yeah he sent me his address back and Fedex Account number so iam guessing hes paying for it since this wasn't my fault.. Hopefully will get a refund or replacement.. lucky we have ebay & paypal protection in a way..


----------



## Aftermath2006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aftermath2006*
> 
> so i have been gaming for awhile on 120hz with the Qnix then all the sudden today i go to fire up a game and nothing above 60 hz will work just tried 120hz 110hz 96hz 120hz get green stuff flickers 110 and 96 screen jumps and is kinda blacked out in places 60 hz still works fine with no issues anybody got any ideas
> 
> nobody got ant ideas on what is up with this also when i turned monitor on to day it flashed red green blue then everything started up fine but overclocks still no longer work


Nobody have any insight into this i still cant figure it out and have gotten no assistance with this in the days since its been happening im really not sure whats going on with it


----------



## Duffsta82

Have you playing around with CRU or video card drivers?


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Hey guys, I figured I would share this with you. So I have been back and forth trying to decide if I want to roll the dice and try for another monitor and I just cannot decide. The monitor so far has no dead pixels as everytime I think I find one it turns out to be dust. The blb isn't bad enough to bother me and I am sure if I did the tape mode it would be better. Anyways here is something interesting I learned from the rep at ipsledmonitors.com
> I am thinking this might be my answer. I asked to see if they can put me in contact with the manufacturer to see if its possible to purchase the board itself. We will see.. I have 4 days left to decide what I want to do. Assuming I could actually purchase the board for not too much, that might be the best compromise. I dunno....


The board will probably run you around $150 at least, if they even can sell to you. You can also try and contact Scribby from Overlordcomputer.com, he sells overclockable boards for around that price - but they are for IPS panels..not sure if theyre compatible.

I personally would just roll the dice again, this is obviously bothering you - the chances of you getting an 96hz+ overclockable panel are very good - the chances of you getting bad enough BLB where you have to open it up and work with the frame...also decent, but you can fix it. The chances of getting dead/bright/stuck pixels are low, and the ones you do get will probably not be noticable. Theres a small chance that youll get a cluster in the middle (very small imo) but that warrants a protected return.


----------



## Aftermath2006

i have not messed with cru or the drivers since i had it overclocked to 120hz had no issues played everything great then i went to play borderlands 2 the other day and boom green lines where there is supposed to be clouds and smoke so then i tried all my other resolutions and the only one that worked properly is the stock 60hz does it sound like a driver problem maybe


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Anyone know how to remove the metal frame from the panel? Do I have to take the panel and all the cables out? I have the bezel off and the two bars that hold the panel in place off, just cant figure out how to get the metal frame away.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Anyone know how to remove the metal frame from the panel? Do I have to take the panel and all the cables out? I have the bezel off and the two bars that hold the panel in place off, just cant figure out how to get the metal frame away.


im planning on painting my metal bezel my self. Remmib said it just snaps off, i'm wondering if you need to take the screws on the side off first? I can't tell from the pics.

honestly this is what worries me the most about this whole thing bending the metal bezel or it snapping off quickly and scratching the glass.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Definitely need to take out the screws for those bars, it covers the little tab things. I almost want to just send it back for fear of breaking anything.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

when you say metal frame, you mean the metal bezel on the front of the monitor right? Yeah he says to use thin plastic trim tools to get it of... they didnt have them at home depot today so I just got thin plastic putty knifes


----------



## hutt132

I'm currently painting the bezel on my monitor. I took it off and sanded it with 400 grain and sprayed it with two coats of clear primer. I'm waiting for that to dry and will do a few coats of the black spray paint tomorrow. Will post picks when done.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I'm currently painting the bezel on my monitor. I took it off and sanded it with 400 grain and sprayed it with two coats of clear primer. I'm waiting for that to dry and will do a few coats of the black spray paint tomorrow. Will post picks when done.


Is sanding metal really necessary before you prime it? I'm not thinking you need to sand metal that isn't already painted as there is nothing to remove....

Can you give any tips on removing the bezel?


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Is sanding metal really necessary before you prime it? I'm not thinking you need to sand metal that isn't already painted as there is nothing to remove....
> 
> Can you give any tips on removing the bezel?


I sanded the plastic bezel on the front of the monitor. The bezel comes off after unscrewing the 4 screws on the back bottom and unclipping all the clips around the bezel.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I sanded the plastic bezel on the front of the monitor. The bezel comes off after unscrewing the 4 screws on the back bottom and unclipping all the clips around the bezel.


ohhh I thought you meant the metal bezel. Okay. Im just getting rid of the entire plastic housing nvm.

does anyone know the answers to these questions?

so im thinking about going two or three monitor setup with crossfire 7950's I know I can only use the outputs on the first card. I'm already using dvi so I have two display port and an hdmi left. my card has mini display ports and comes with mini to full size DP adapter. im guessing this will work since it is just a physical adapter.

Does this monitor actually have all the outputs listed on the page? DVI HDMI DP ?

How do you switch between these inputs, OSD? if it has an OSD i'm guessing it has more input lag than the standard dvi only monitor?

Can the multi input models be overclocked?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPort-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-DP-PC-Monitor-/111103342614?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de467816


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> im planning on painting my metal bezel my self. Remmib said it just snaps off, i'm wondering if you need to take the screws on the side off first? I can't tell from the pics.
> 
> honestly this is what worries me the most about this whole thing bending the metal bezel or it snapping off quickly and scratching the glass.


So, you're leaving your monitor without the housing on it? How did you get all the components to stick to the panel? Could you post more picture of the back and front, please?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> So, you're leaving your monitor without the housing on it? How did you get all the components to stick to the panel? Could you post more picture of the back and front, please?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1404407/how-to-create-a-vesa-mount-after-debezelling-your-monitor-qnix-qx2710

I'd love to take credit but someone else came up with this method. I haven't done it yet, my monitor comes monday.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> ohhh I thought you meant the metal bezel. Okay. Im just getting rid of the entire plastic housing nvm.
> 
> does anyone know the answers to these questions?
> 
> so im thinking about going two or three monitor setup with crossfire 7950's I know I can only use the outputs on the first card. I'm already using dvi so I have two display port and an hdmi left. my card has mini display ports and comes with mini to full size DP adapter. im guessing this will work since it is just a physical adapter.
> 
> Does this monitor actually have all the outputs listed on the page? DVI HDMI DP ?
> 
> How do you switch between these inputs, OSD? if it has an OSD i'm guessing it has more input lag than the standard dvi only monitor?
> 
> Can the multi input models be overclocked?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPort-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-DP-PC-Monitor-/111103342614?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de467816


Since the seller is listing all of those inputs, has pics with all of those inputs I'm gonna guess yes it does have them but if your worried email the seller and ask.

From what I have seen many others say no you can not overclock the multi input monitors or at least not very high.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> So, you're leaving your monitor without the housing on it? How did you get all the components to stick to the panel? Could you post more picture of the back and front, please?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1404407/how-to-create-a-vesa-mount-after-debezelling-your-monitor-qnix-qx2710
> 
> I'd love to take credit but someone else came up with this method. I haven't done it yet, my monitor comes monday.
Click to expand...

I finally did it after toying around with the idea. Mine came out great and doesnt look like some cheap chinese plastic thing anymore. If you have a free day, definitely worth a look into


----------



## valtopps

WAIT WHAT ARE YOU GUYS DOING TO YOUR NEW MONITORS?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> im planning on painting my metal bezel my self. Remmib said it just snaps off, i'm wondering if you need to take the screws on the side off first? I can't tell from the pics.
> 
> honestly this is what worries me the most about this whole thing bending the metal bezel or it snapping off quickly and scratching the glass.


Yes, you definitely remove those screws first, heh. They are what hold the metal bezel in place.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I finally did it after toying around with the idea. Mine came out great and doesnt look like some cheap chinese plastic thing anymore. If you have a free day, definitely worth a look into


Would be awesome if you posted some pics in my thread so that more people can see that it turns out well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> WAIT WHAT ARE YOU GUYS DOING TO YOUR NEW MONITORS?


Making them sexy.


----------



## valtopps

there already sexy, yeah show us some pic of what your doing to them


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valtopps*
> 
> there already sexy, yeah show us some pic of what your doing to them


Removing the plastic bezel and painting the metal bezel matte black.


----------



## Paps.pt

Guys, please help!

I had my monitor OCed to 120Hz and decided to update my Nvidia Driver but now my PC is constantly freezing. What should I do?

Cheers


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I finally did it after toying around with the idea. Mine came out great and doesnt look like some cheap chinese plastic thing anymore. If you have a free day, definitely worth a look into




When I first saw this method, my jaw dropped..... Yes I am ready for monday or tuesday.























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> Since the seller is listing all of those inputs, has pics with all of those inputs I'm gonna guess yes it does have them but if your worried email the seller and ask.
> 
> From what I have seen many others say no you can not overclock the multi input monitors or at least not very high.


That is what I figured. I'll just msg the seller and ask if they use an OSD or just the button to switch. If no OSD i'm guessing the input lag difference is minimal. We'll see how well my first one oc's and if i can stand the gamma change.

If it doesn't oc good or I don't like the colors when Oc'ed I might add one more for eyefinity who knows


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Guys, please help!
> 
> I had my monitor OCed to 120Hz and decided to update my Nvidia Driver but now my PC is constantly freezing. What should I do?
> 
> Cheers


Never mind, I figured it out. I had to revert to 60hz, unpatch, patch again and then going back to 120hz.

EDIT: problem is still there after all. Please heeeeeeeelppp me!

Cheers


----------



## andyd1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyd1*
> 
> Hi. I received the Qnix monitor last week and I can't believe I've gone this long at lower resolutions. Anyway, I bought this mount based on the FAQ in the OP...
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 
> But it looks like the screws don't fit. Am I supposed to get a hold of shorter screws?


Anyone? I can't seem to find screws that will work for this mount. I thought there would be more users considering it's in the OP


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Never mind, I figured it out. I had to revert to 60hz, unpatch, patch again and then going back to 120hz.
> 
> EDIT: problem is still there after all. Please heeeeeeeelppp me!
> 
> Cheers


Reinstall your NVIDIA driver. Make sure you choose advanced install and tick the box next to perform clean install.


----------



## theilya

LCD reduced settings will not save for some reason.


after I click ok and go back it shows manual, not LCD reduced as I selected


----------



## Moragg

Um... LCD reduced timings have been saved. It just says manual so you have the option to further tweak them if desired. Check the numbers - they are exactly the same in both photos.


----------



## theilya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Um... LCD reduced timings have been saved. It just says manual so you have the option to further tweak them if desired. Check the numbers - they are exactly the same in both photos.


hmm i figured it would show LCD reduced when I go back to it.
thanks


----------



## hutt132

I ended up painting the bezel matte black. I sanded it with 400 grit sand paper, applied two coats of clear primer, and two coats of matte black paint. I also did the tape mod on the bottom of the metal frame. Seemed to help a little bit for the back light bleed down there.


----------



## apav

So what have you guys done to help with the 120hz screen darkening effect in games? Setting my gamma to 1.3 in some games really helps, but I don't know if I make the colors worse by doing that.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I ended up painting the bezel matte black. I sanded it with 400 grit sand paper, applied two coats of clear primer, and two coats of matte black paint. I also did the tape mod on the bottom of the metal frame. Seemed to help a little bit for the back light bleed down there.


Looks pretty nice, like brushed aluminium. Can you explain how you did the tape mod? I took the bezel off and couldn't figure out if I needed to unplug everything and take the panel out to be able to remove the metal frame.


----------



## Paps.pt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> Guys, please help!
> 
> I had my monitor OCed to 120Hz and decided to update my Nvidia Driver but now my PC is constantly freezing. What should I do?
> 
> Cheers


Anyone? I am desperate here. It was working fine before the update... Now it freezes every 10 seconds. Did this happened to anyone else?
Thanks


----------



## kossair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I ended up painting the bezel matte black. I sanded it with 400 grit sand paper, applied two coats of clear primer, and two coats of matte black paint. I also did the tape mod on the bottom of the metal frame. Seemed to help a little bit for the back light bleed down there.]


It looks fantastic. Very professional, but I'd honestly get rid of those stickers and either sand/paint the base as well or get a mount for your monitor. Otherwise, very well done!


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Looks pretty nice, like brushed aluminium. Can you explain how you did the tape mod? I took the bezel off and couldn't figure out if I needed to unplug everything and take the panel out to be able to remove the metal frame.


To completely remove the metal frame I think you have to unplug everything, because there's a metal plate screwed to the back of the panel that overlaps the metal frame on the top. All I did was unlatch the metal frame on the bottom and sides and just lifted it up on the bottom enough to put tape on the bottom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kossair*
> 
> It looks fantastic. Very professional, but I'd honestly get rid of those stickers and either sand/paint the base as well or get a mount for your monitor. Otherwise, very well done!


Those are not stickers lol. That's the original bezel. I put painters tape over the logo and button labels when I spray painted the bezel. Thinking back, I should have just painted over the logo, too. I plan on getting a vesa mount stand later on so I didn't bother painting the stand.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I ended up painting the bezel matte black. I sanded it with 400 grit sand paper, applied two coats of clear primer, and two coats of matte black paint. I also did the tape mod on the bottom of the metal frame. Seemed to help a little bit for the back light bleed down there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great!


----------



## Hl86

Ordered a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution OC Thursday from www.overclockmonitor.com. Got it today Monday. Patched it and sat it to 120hz, which worked. No dead pixels or bad blacklight bleeding.
I can really say im pleasantly satisfied with it.


----------



## Hl86

After playing around with colors in Nvidia control panel i cant get it look good. Its very bland coloring than my samsung syncmaster s23a700d.
Is there some more features i can play with other than Nvidia control panel?


----------



## dorcopio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I ended up painting the bezel matte black. I sanded it with 400 grit sand paper, applied two coats of clear primer, and two coats of matte black paint. I also did the tape mod on the bottom of the metal frame. Seemed to help a little bit for the back light bleed down there.


Could you explain how did you get this brushed alluminium appearance?
It reminds me my EliteBook:


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> So what have you guys done to help with the 120hz screen darkening effect in games? Setting my gamma to 1.3 in some games really helps, but I don't know if I make the colors worse by doing that.


In my case, I am using a x-rite calibration device so I did calibrations for each setting and is great.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

go pens.

but on another note can you post the icc profiles you made?


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> go pens.
> 
> but on another note can you post the icc profiles you made?


Sure I will do that tonight. They were created in a dark environment but I did not use the Ambien light option to do the readings.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Sure I will do that tonight. They were created in a dark environment but I did not use the Ambien light option to do the readings.


cool I usually game with the lights off at night time.

Expecting my monitor here from UPS any minute gonna see how high I can oc hoping for 96 atleast, probably won't use 120 constantly as I hear it screws the colors pretty good.


----------



## Spedboy

Hey guys, noticed in the FAQ that for 120hz with one of these monitors you would need to use 2 crossfire bridges. I have 2 7870's in crossfire and only have the option for one crossfire bridge between each card. Will there be any issues or can someone confirm it is working? Will still probably pull the trigger on one of these regardless as 1440p seems the way to go.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spedboy*
> 
> Hey guys, noticed in the FAQ that for 120hz with one of these monitors you would need to use 2 crossfire bridges. I have 2 7870's in crossfire and only have the option for one crossfire bridge between each card. Will there be any issues or can someone confirm it is working? Will still probably pull the trigger on one of these regardless as 1440p seems the way to go.


when I get mine I gotta see how high it oc's. if it oc's to 120 ill be willing to take a bridge off my 7950s and see if it still works.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Could you explain how did you get this brushed alluminium appearance?
> It reminds me my EliteBook:


I assume you're referring to that bottom portion of the bezel.

It comes like that out of the box. He simply painted the bezel above it that was glossy.


----------



## mboner1

Welp, pretty sure i should be receiving mine tomorrow after the long delay because of the long weekend, getting the tempered glass version so will update with pics... if i'm not too devastated by some deal breaking defect.

I have a spyder elite to calibrate with so the gamma issue at higher refresh rates won't be a issue for me i assume, but does anyone know if it is potentially doing damage to the components by over clocking to 96 or 120hz ??


----------



## Stylook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> I just wanted to chime in and give an update on my x-star. I've been trying a lot of different cable all with different results. Basically every time I get a new cable and OC to 120hz I notice a little line here or some static there. I think I've finally found a cable that works for me 100%. The only cable I cannot try are the 3ft ones, so its 6ft only for me. I've also tested both DVI ports with all cables.
> 
> 1. Stock cable, 28awg, , OC to 120hz standard I get horizontal lines everywhere on the start screen. Tried front porch method and noticed a few lines playing games. 110hz is perfect.
> 
> 2. Monoprice 24awg 6ft. . Basically the same as the stock, maybe even worse. 110hz is perfect.
> 
> 3. Bluejeanscable.. 24awg 6ft. Worked fine for about a week and noticed some static when opening an app. It must have always been there but it took a bit to notice. 110hz is perfect.
> 
> 4. Cable Matters 28awg 6ft. OC'd at 120hz on standard and noticed just a little static on top right, all other cable would be unusable on standard. Did the front porch method and tested all of the other issues I had with other cables and so far its been perfect 100% . I may notice something in the future but its been a few days now and I have seen no distortion whatsoever.
> 
> So for you guys asking for cable recommendation I've had the best luck with this one:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Ferrites-Copper/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380034039&sr=8-1&keywords=dvi-d+cable+matters
> 
> Hope this helps someone. Your mileage may vary..


I should have read your findings earlier, I am really disappointed with Monoprice, it's worst than the default cable.







Fortunately the default cable still gives good results. Sigh.


----------



## jerrolds

Yes i need a cable *slightly* better than the default - but i cant order that cable from amazon.com (they dont ship it to Canada, and amazon.ca does not carry it







)

Anyone wanna buy one and sell/ship it to me?


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Yes i need a cable *slightly* better than the default - but i cant order that cable from amazon.com (they dont ship it to Canada, and amazon.ca does not carry it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Anyone wanna buy one and sell/ship it to me?


Try contacting *Monoprice* to see if they will ship to Canada?


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Yes i need a cable *slightly* better than the default - but i cant order that cable from amazon.com (they dont ship it to Canada, and amazon.ca does not carry it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Anyone wanna buy one and sell/ship it to me?


If you have Paypal, I can probably help you out. I get discounts on USPS shipping too. PM me


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Try contacting *Monoprice* to see if they will ship to Canada?


Yea i tried a 24AWG from monoprice - it was worse than the 28AWG default....kinda need someone with an extra DLDVI cable that can do 120hz without artifacts







My QNIX can hit 135hz, but anything over 119hz theres slight green scan lines.

I think a better quality cable and/or faster timings can fix this - but i cant find any times lower than [email protected] for Radeon cards unfortunately


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Yea i tried a 24AWG from monoprice - it was worse than the 28AWG default....kinda need someone with an extra DLDVI cable that can do 120hz without artifacts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My QNIX can hit 135hz, but anything over 119hz theres slight green scan lines.
> 
> I think a better quality cable and/or faster timings can fix this - but i cant find any times lower than [email protected] for Radeon cards unfortunately


Look up Grefen DVI cables they are the best you can buy
they sypport 4k resolution on single line 15ft cost me 110 you get the idea...


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> Look up Grefen DVI cables they are the best you can buy
> they sypport 4k resolution on single line 15ft cost me 110 you get the idea...


i have the 15ft one for 110$ and its awesom at 120hz


----------



## HardwareDecoder

So I got my monitor and I couldn't be more dissapointed..... Has a pretty decent sized (2 atleast) dead pixels on the right hand side. Black light bleed is pretty obnoxious in a black screen. Oc's only to 96khz I get lines at 120. Honestly you get what you pay for and I should have known better.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> So I got my monitor and I couldn't be more dissapointed..... Has a pretty decent sized (2 atleast) dead pixels on the right hand side. Black light bleed is pretty obnoxious in a black screen. Oc's only to 96khz I get lines at 120. Honestly you get what you pay for and I should have known better.


Way to fill me with dread bro.

You disappointed overall by the display quality or the issues you are facing with the 2 dead pixels and blb?


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> So I got my monitor and I couldn't be more dissapointed..... Has a pretty decent sized (2 atleast) dead pixels on the right hand side. Black light bleed is pretty obnoxious in a black screen. Oc's only to 96khz I get lines at 120. Honestly you get what you pay for and I should have known better.


You can fix BLB, by straightening out frame and/or evening out the pressure on it by placing pieces of paper. And if you get lines at 120hz (and not straight up blinking on/off) that means you can improve it with tighter timings.

Dig around, you can still get a decent picture with a bit of work.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Where do I adjust timings in the CRU? And where do I put pieces of paper? under the metal bezel inside the monitor case? The pictures in the tape mod part of the front page are pretty terrible they don't show me anything.

Hmm and now I don't even seem to have an option for crossfirex in the amd control center.

Okay so I had some nerd rage on first getting this but i'm trying to calm down a bit....

Xfire is back after reinstalling drivers, repatched drivers. set to 110hz seems to be fine picture looks okay.

110hz confirmed by the website in the OP.

The dead pixels really aren't very noticeable at all from about a three foot sitting distance.

Alright coming back down from anger here.... Now I just need to fix the black light bleed, any better tutorials on how to do that ?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Where do I adjust timings in the CRU? And where do I put pieces of paper? under the metal bezel inside the monitor case? The pictures in the tape mod part of the front page are pretty terrible they don't show me anything.
> 
> Hmm and now I don't even seem to have an option for crossfirex in the amd control center.
> 
> Okay so I had some nerd rage on first getting this but i'm trying to calm down a bit....
> 
> Xfire is back after reinstalling drivers, repatched drivers. set to 110hz seems to be fine picture looks okay.
> 
> 110hz confirmed by the website in the OP.
> 
> The dead pixels really aren't very noticeable at all from about a three foot sitting distance.
> 
> Alright coming back down from anger here.... Now I just need to fix the black light bleed, any better tutorials on how to do that ?


I think i'm going to be identical to you tomorrow lol, best case scenario anyway haha.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Alright coming back down from anger here.... Now I just need to fix the black light bleed, any better tutorials on how to do that ?


I'm also trying to do this, would help if someone who has done it could chime in. The videos in the OP aren't terribly clear.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

.


----------



## Camberwell

Just got my Qnix today, from ebay seller bigclothcraft. Bought a Perfect Pixel monitor, and that's exactly what I got so lottery or not, I feel justified at spending the extra bucks









Also backlight bleed is pretty minimal, no worse than my old Samsung TN monitor!

Overclocked straight to 120Hz but didn't like the darker colours so I dialled it back to 110Hz and used one of the 110Hz ICC profiles in the OP and now everything is butter smooth and the right colour!

I've been wanting a 2560x1440 screen for a while now but they are twice the price of this monitor where I live, so I'm really glad I took the gamble and ordered this one, and the fact that it oc's nicely is an added bonus


----------



## noogai93

Quick question another xstar arrived today, i can OC only one at a time, if both are connected they default to 60hz

Im running a gtx670. Any help as to OC both screens at the same time ?


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> cool I usually game with the lights off at night time.
> 
> Expecting my monitor here from UPS any minute gonna see how high I can oc hoping for 96 atleast, probably won't use 120 constantly as I hear it screws the colors pretty good.


I have been using 96Hz for the most part lately but I tried 120hz and the computer goes into constant freezing like stops and goes. I did not have that before I got my tri sli setup with 660ti so I am trying to find some timings that work with SLI to do it again then calibrate at 120hz to send post the files.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> I have been using 96Hz for the most part lately but I tried 120hz and the computer goes into constant freezing like stops and goes. I did not have that before I got my tri sli setup with 660ti so I am trying to find some timings that work with SLI to do it again then calibrate at 120hz to send post the files.


mine did 110hz using shl38's 110hz icc I think. Got lines at 120. Colors looked good with his profile.

I got the metal bezel all painted up and drying, about to epoxy the pcb/vesa mount on per the debezel vesa mount guide.

edit: just realized I need the metal bezel to hold the glass in right with the weight on top of it. So that will happen tomorrow once the paint has cured up.


----------



## mboner1

Missed my delivery driver by 30 mins. Boooo!!!! They left a card saying they will try again tomorrow. I want it today! lol.


----------



## shaolin95

*My profiles are all set to 120 cd/m2*

Here is one ICS for 120Hz Lights off in the room.
Brightness level 11 steps up from lowest.

Forum120HzNoLightsD65.zip 8k .zip file


I did it with the x-rite Colormunki display.

I am also adding a 96Hz one that I normally use when photo editing that matches my local walmart prints pretty closely.

Gabe96hzNoLightAmbientOffFlareOffD65.zip 8k .zip file


This 96hz might be more accurate as it was taken just now after the monitor has been warming up and I did two runs with identical results.
Brightness is 10 steps from lowest.

96HzOct7NolightsNoAmbienNoFlare2ndTryeD65.zip 8k .zip file


And for people that use 60Hz here it is as well.
Brightness could be either 9 or even ten steps up from lowest.

60HzOct72013NoLightsNoAmbienNoFlareD65.zip 8k .zip file


----------



## OneGun

Who are all these new guys?Sorry guys been busy working..I am back to help with whatever i can..


----------



## mboner1

Just went and picked mine up from the local fedex and gotta say.. it's AMAZING!!!!

Haven't done a thing to it yet, but compared to my old asus pb278q 2560x1440p monitor, well there's no competition. This thing with tempered glass is nuts. Love it already. , If it has issues, i can't see them, ran a quick pixel test and couldn't see a dead pixel anywhere. The stand is dodgy, not the base but feels like the panel is to heavy for the glass like bit holding it up, everyone elses like that?

Stoked so far, gonna calibrate it later after tea and a bit of a play around , might post some pics later. Peace!!


----------



## mboner1

Anyone know if those power plug adapters are safe to use as well? Little skeptical about using that for 24/7 use.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

i'd think so they are just metal to metal.

Glad you like yours and it has no dead pixels.

I have never been lucky, Oh well my dead pixel/s aren't that noticeable.

I'm pretty excited I think my metal bezel looks great

Got it drying now says it takes 24 hours to fully dry. Although it is dry to the touch I'm gonna wait till atleast 7 or 8 tonight to put it on the glass just in case.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> i'd think so they are just metal to metal.
> 
> Glad you like yours and it has no dead pixels.
> 
> I have never been lucky, Oh well my dead pixel/s aren't that noticeable.
> 
> I'm pretty excited I think my metal bezel looks great
> 
> Got it drying now says it takes 24 hours to fully dry. Although it is dry to the touch I'm gonna wait till atleast 7 or 8 tonight to put it on the glass just in case.


Don't feel to bad i have found 1 dead/stuck? green pixel, it looks a little cloudy around that dead pixel as well, is that normal??

I noticed the cloudy area on a grey screen when calibrating, then noticed it was a dead/stuck pixel when i was on a black screen checking it out.

Back light bleed is nearly non existent except for at the top a tiny bit, i think it looks worse in pics than in person, the pixel is not noticeable in photos either, here's a few pics at max brightness, calibrated. FTR max brightness is 253 cdm with 0.28 black level giving it a contrast ratio of 903:1 , not too shabby!!!!

My hands were not as steady as i would have liked lol, taken with galaxy s4..


----------



## HardwareDecoder

double


----------



## HardwareDecoder

.


----------



## mboner1

edited


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I actually have a decent bit of black light bleed in the bottom right corner area so i gotta figure out what I want to do to try to fix some of that.
> 
> Here are my crappy pics with a cellphone camera. I'll take some better ones with the digi cam once my epoxy sets and I get my VESA desk mount stand tomorrow.
> 
> Got the bezel just resting on the panel with the screen protector on and my PCB box all mounted up ready to be epoxied to the back of the panel.
> 
> Note: it isn't mounted to that huge piece of wood I know the pic is terrible, if you look closely it is just mounted to a piece of hardboard.


I think i will be envious when your done lol, but i'm not gonna risk it, just gonna stick with the crappy stand god (accessorieswhole) gave me lol.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

.


----------



## dorcopio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*


What were you playing?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> What were you playing?


They were just a few wallpapers i had.

That would be one weird/ epic game if those pics were from the one game lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> so I have a good bit of yellowish BLB in the bottom right corner what is my best bet to fix it on a debezelled monitor ? black electrical tape on the inside of the metal bezel? one layer? two layers what? Should I just tape in the right corner, or all the way around ?
> 
> when I had the plastic case on if I put extra pressure on the plastic bezel in that area it seemed to help lessen the BLB.
> My wife knew I was doing this before I ever ordered the monitor and actually helped me take it apart.
> 
> She was cool with it up until we had to take the metal bezel off, that part was really scary and isn't that easy it has a series of metal clips. I ended up basically having to pry it out with those plastic putty knives you see in the pic. They weren't as thin as I would have liked either.
> 
> I think I did the tiniest bend in the metal bezel in one spot also but I kind of just bent it back with my fingers and I'm not thinking you can tell anymore or that it will be an issue.
> 
> Have you looked at remmibs guide? It looks like a 1000$ monitor when he is done with it (from the front anyway) which is what is important.
> 
> You know you can remove the stand post and VESA mount it without taking very much of it apart at all right? you don't have to debezel it to change stands.
> 
> I cant stand LED's on electronic devices and I hate this crappy stand, I have another monitor that has that stand and it wobbles when i type on my mech keyboard I hate it.


Haha, i just told my fiancee what a neckbeard is the other day and she is already calling me that for obsessing over 1 tiny pixel lol, if i started pulling the monitor apart she would have a crack lol.

Think i'm just gonna count myself lucky and try and enjoy it. Has anyone had any success with http://www.jscreenfix.com/ for dead or stuck pixels, ran it for 10 mins to no avail.


----------



## RandySavage

Any difference between the standard QNIX and the Evolution II? I noticed a few of the II's showing up in the OP. About to buy one of these... looks like AW, Greensum, and Dream Seller are still the front runners? IPSLED?


----------



## jagz

Sorry to skip all the way to here but which qnix's can overclock to 90+hz reliably ? thanks.


----------



## VENAXIS

Getting my QNIX QX2710 tomorrow!! The weekend holiday delayed it forever. Psyched!


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Sorry to skip all the way to here but which qnix's can overclock to 90+hz reliably ? thanks.


Every QNIX QX2710 seems to be able to get at least 96Hz. Most can get 120Hz with the proper timings. (I think cable length matters as well, but some people don't agree)

It makes no difference which Qnix though, matte, glossy, glass, can all get 96Hz+ as long as its the QX2710 model with the Samsung PLS screen.

There are some very old Qnixs out there that use a different bezel and an LG IPS screen, although they're pretty much extinct now. I'm unsure of how well they overclocked, but basically any that you'll easily find for sale today will do 96Hz+


----------



## mboner1

Here's my icc profile if you want to chuck it in the pile. It's for max brightness, which was 250cdm on mine, good for gaming, movies, not so much for photo editing etc....

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/250cdm.icm


----------



## air tree

Hmm I'm still trying to make up my mind if i should risk it and get a X-STAR or just suck it up and get a Viewsonic Vp2770.... The viewsonic is $700 so that does put a dent in my wallet. What do you guys think? With your experiences with backlight bleeding and other things?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Hmm I'm still trying to make up my mind if i should risk it and get a X-STAR or just suck it up and get a Viewsonic Vp2770.... The viewsonic is $700 so that does put a dent in my wallet. What do you guys think? With your experiences with backlight bleeding and other things?


I think you would get a different answer depending on who you ask man, but from my experience I would say go for the qnix or x star if that's what your looking at. My qnix beats the Asus pb278q I owned hands down with a leg in the air.

Having said that, I think it's a raffle. But it's a raffle even buying from the store if you go with the viewsonic, no 2 panels are the same and you could get a bad one of those. Difference is you can probz return the viewsonic straight away.

Go for it is my suggestion. But it is a little risky I think.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Hmm I'm still trying to make up my mind if i should risk it and get a X-STAR or just suck it up and get a Viewsonic Vp2770.... The viewsonic is $700 so that does put a dent in my wallet. What do you guys think? With your experiences with backlight bleeding and other things?


Do you plan on gaming? The VP2770 has a 12ms response time, which is quite a bit worse than the Qnix or X-Star. I think the average for these is about 8ms, which is already a little slow, but not too bad


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Hmm I'm still trying to make up my mind if i should risk it and get a X-STAR or just suck it up and get a Viewsonic Vp2770.... The viewsonic is $700 so that does put a dent in my wallet. What do you guys think? With your experiences with backlight bleeding and other things?


Your profile picture + your comment. LOL!


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Do you plan on gaming? The VP2770 has a 12ms response time, which is quite a bit worse than the Qnix or X-Star. I think the average for these is about 8ms, which is already a little slow, but not too bad


According to multiple reviews the viewsonic is the fastest ips/pls 1440P on the market and is on par with korean monitors. Just pointing that out.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Does anyone else feel like their backlight is flickering? I'm not massively sensitive to flicker, but I can see it on some TV's. On my Qnix the lowest possible brightness setting exibits very obvious flickers, its more of a flash than a flicker really, it just bumps in and out of blackness. One up from that its more of a flicker, extremely obvious.

At max brightness (what I always use it on) I sometimes think I can see flicker, but I'm not sure if I can or if my eyes are just messing with me. There have been other times though where it has had a pretty obvious flicker that dissapears when I switch resolutions away and back.


----------



## mudzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Hmm I'm still trying to make up my mind if i should risk it and get a X-STAR or just suck it up and get a Viewsonic Vp2770.... The viewsonic is $700 so that does put a dent in my wallet. What do you guys think? With your experiences with backlight bleeding and other things?


Id say go for this, but thats probably because the monitor I got is perfect


----------



## TrptJim

My monitor arrived yesterday from accesorieswholesale. It has a bit of backlight bleed in the bottom right corner (very exaggerated in pictures) that I will attempt to fix sometime soon, but otherwise there are no dead pixels and everything else seems to be working good. Except... twice in the past day I have gotten a garbled screen, once at 96hz and once at 120hz about 5 hours later. This is after about 12 hours of use. Is this from the monitor or my PC? I am running at 60hz right now to see if it happens again. It's a bit worrying, as there are no other issues with static or flashing lines at any other time.

Also, this is my first post after lurking for years. Hi.


----------



## eculley65

Purchased a Qnix yesterday from newegg seller "Neofeel".. shipped today and will be delivered tomorrow. How the hell did they manage to get this overnighted from Korea for $10?

Anyways, wish me luck on the pixel / backlight bleeding aspect.


----------



## polomintus

Sorry if this is a silly question but I want to know if the Qnix or X-Star will work on a dual-link DVI-I port.... I've looked through the FAQ on the first page and all it mentions is DVI-D Duallink

Now it is my understanding and correct me if I'm wrong is that a DVI-I is both Digital and Analog so a DVI-I Dual link is equal or better in some ways for the both support....

So will these screens work on a dual-link DVI-I Card (The card I have is a Geforce GTX275 which has 2 Dual Link DVI-I ports.) And I believe the max resolution is 2560x1440 which matches the same as the screen in any case... (I know the games will take a hit in FPS, this is'nt a concern)... The reason I ask this question is because these korean sellers do not list my card as compatible and in fact there are many Dual Link DVI-I and Even DVI-D they don't list... So will it work or not







thx


----------



## TrptJim

Well, I found the problem with my lightbleed. I took the casing off and immediately noticed this:



Time to straighten her out.


----------



## paulkon

Is that the frame, panel, or both that are bent?


----------



## TrevJonez

Looks like the panel chassis and frame. 2 of my 3 where this way when I tore them apart. Little bit of finesse and you can straighten it out. The two of mine that were tweaked now have no BLB but do have like an odd lighter stripe when a solid black screen is shown.

the 3rd was flat and still has BLB.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Is the tape mod still a thing or do people just straighten out the frame?


----------



## TrptJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Looks like the panel chassis and frame. 2 of my 3 where this way when I tore them apart. Little bit of finesse and you can straighten it out.


Do you have any tips on safely straightening the panel? I have the panel completely out, but I am unsure what to do at this point beyond putting it face down on a flat surface and putting something heavy and padded on it.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrptJim*
> 
> Well, I found the problem with my lightbleed. I took the casing off and immediately noticed this:
> 
> 
> 
> Time to straighten her out.


Makes me wonder how they managed to put that frame on without snapping the screen. I didn't realize lcd screens were flexible. I mean, that is terrible bending considering its blatantly obvious in a small picture.


----------



## hutt132

I got my ColorMunki Display today and it made my monitor look much better at 120Hz. The only negative thing about it is that the colors look ever so slightly washed out. I calibrated with the brightness at 22 clicks from the lowest setting, monitor tilted back, and at night with the lights off. Also, does anyone know how many brightness clicks the QNIX QX2710 can actually do?

Here's my .icc profilefor 120Hz: http://www.mediafire.com/?1kdh8hztdk49te9
(I'll be adding profiles for 96Hz and 60Hz when I get the time)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> Here are my timing, no artifacts. I'm using this cable: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-24AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B003L11FIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377385659&sr=8-1&keywords=24awg+dvi-d


----------



## birthdaymonkey

Just got my X-star from Dreamseller, paid the extra $10 for "perfect pixel" guarantee.

I'm pleased to report that this panel is indeed perfect. Almost no BLB and no dead pixels. I tried and returned 9 -- yes, nine -- brand name displays (U2713HM, PB278Q, VP2770), all of which had at least one pixel defect and more bleed than this X-star.

Needless to say I'm very pleased. Now I just have to work up the courage to get the awful stand off this thing.


----------



## TrptJim

Put some light weights on the corner to push it down, with something wedged under the where the bend starts. I'm now waiting and sweating, worrying if anything will go wrong. If anyone has a better method, let me know.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrptJim*
> 
> Put some light weights on the corner to push it down, with something wedged under the where the bend starts. I'm now waiting and sweating, worrying if anything will go wrong. If anyone has a better method, let me know.


Why are you doing this?


----------



## Kuudere

Well isn't that nice. FexEx wants $36.50 from me for the duty and tax invoice after I've had my two monitors for a weekish. Do I call and dispute it or just pay it?









Also, one of my screens has image retention on it whereas the other doesn't, and the one that does has a backlight that can turn all the way off if I want it to, but the other doesn't. One did have a different color temperature but I think that's my GPU's DVI ports as flipping which port they're connected to changes the color temperatures on the.

Otherwise, no other issues to report on my end.


----------



## TrptJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Why are you doing this?


Check a couple posts back. I described the problem and posted pictures. I hooked it up to see if it works at all, and the BLB seems to be better but not quite there yet.



If I bend the corner by hand I can get the BLB to disappear entirely. I may look for something to clamp the corner.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *birthdaymonkey*
> 
> Just got my X-star from Dreamseller, paid the extra $10 for "perfect pixel" guarantee.
> 
> I'm pleased to report that this panel is indeed perfect. Almost no BLB and no dead pixels. I tried and returned 9 -- yes, nine -- brand name displays (U2713HM, PB278Q, VP2770), all of which had at least one pixel defect and more bleed than this X-star.
> 
> Needless to say I'm very pleased. Now I just have to work up the courage to get the awful stand off this thing.


Luckily with the X-Star you just have to tug on the clear stub of the stand until it comes off, you don't need to open up the casing.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Anyone else get this? I'm not particularly sensitive to flicker, but at the lowest brightness setting the screen practically blacks out in bursts. I can also see it very faintly at max brightness.


----------



## VegetarianEater

ok so i can't find a straight answer in this topic (and yes i searched) but is hdmi-dvi possible with these monitors for the sole purpose of testing to make sure it works? i want to buy one soon (the price just keeps going up, don't wanna wait any longer) but i won't have desktop to use it with currently, just a laptop with hdmi. will i be able to get 1080p on the monitor with an adapter? worst case scenario i try and lug it over to a friend's house to test it...


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VegetarianEater*
> 
> ok so i can't find a straight answer in this topic (and yes i searched) but is hdmi-dvi possible with these monitors for the sole purpose of testing to make sure it works? i want to buy one soon (the price just keeps going up, don't wanna wait any longer) but i won't have desktop to use it with currently, just a laptop with hdmi. will i be able to get 1080p on the monitor with an adapter? worst case scenario i try and lug it over to a friend's house to test it...


Short answer, no. This monitor only accepts dual-link DVI 2560 x 1440. I tried doing exactly what you want to do with a single-link DVI to HDMi cable and it didn't work. The reason why I even attempted to try was because I thought the pixel clock patcher would work for mobile GPUs and allow me to push the full 2560 x 1440 pixles over a single-link DVI but I was wrong.


----------



## VegetarianEater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Short answer, no. This monitor only accepts dual-link DVI 2560 x 1440. I tried doing exactly what you want to do with a single-link DVI to HDMi cable and it didn't work. The reason why I even attempted to try was because I thought the pixel clock patcher would work for mobile GPUs and allow me to push the full 2560 x 1440 pixles over a single-link DVI but I was wrong.


alright thanks


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrptJim*
> 
> My monitor arrived yesterday from accesorieswholesale. It has a bit of backlight bleed in the bottom right corner (very exaggerated in pictures) that I will attempt to fix sometime soon, but otherwise there are no dead pixels and everything else seems to be working good. Except... twice in the past day I have gotten a garbled screen, once at 96hz and once at 120hz about 5 hours later. This is after about 12 hours of use. Is this from the monitor or my PC? I am running at 60hz right now to see if it happens again. It's a bit worrying, as there are no other issues with static or flashing lines at any other time.
> 
> Also, this is my first post after lurking for years. Hi.


Your timings might not be stable - have you tried a lower hz but using LCD Standard, then being a bit more adventurous and doing LCD Reduced..then finally custom timings? Also that BLB is pretty bad - might wanna think about opening it up and straightening out the frame (and using pieces of paper against the inside of bezel and frame to even out the pressure if needed)


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else get this? I'm not particularly sensitive to flicker, but at the lowest brightness setting the screen practically blacks out in bursts. I can also see it very faintly at max brightness.


Ya mine exhibits obvious strobing at the lowest brightness - at around 7 ticks from the bottom its pretty good (my camera doesnt pick it up). My Panasonic ST50 is way worse, luckily it doesnt bother me. Try looking at your LCD/Plasma HDTV...i bet you its worse than your monitor


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Ya mine exhibits obvious strobing at the lowest brightness - at around 7 ticks from the bottom its pretty good (my camera doesnt pick it up). My Panasonic ST50 is way worse, luckily it doesnt bother me. Try looking at your LCD/Plasma HDTV...i bet you its worse than your monitor


Right thanks. I've noticed it on TV's alot yea, thankfully it isn't too noticable on max brightness, but I'll have to see what the Ebay seller says.


----------



## TrptJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Your timings might not be stable - have you tried a lower hz but using LCD Standard, then being a bit more adventurous and doing LCD Reduced..then finally custom timings? Also that BLB is pretty bad - might wanna think about opening it up and straightening out the frame (and using pieces of paper against the inside of bezel and frame to even out the pressure if needed)


It's not just the frame, but the entire panel that is bent. I took the panel out and used some weights to even it out, but that only did so much. I jammed some cardboard underneath the right corner and top of the bottom middle right to torque it a bit more straight, and I am fairly satisfied with how it is now. It's barely noticeable unless the room is pitch black.



About the screen garbling, I was using custom timings I found here for 120hz before it went garbled.

I'm pretty uneducated about these settings, though, so I don't know how to modify these further. I would appreciate any help.


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrptJim*
> 
> It's not just the frame, but the entire panel that is bent. I took the panel out and used some weights to even it out, but that only did so much. I jammed some cardboard underneath the right corner and top of the bottom middle right to torque it a bit more straight, and I am fairly satisfied with how it is now. It's barely noticeable unless the room is pitch black.
> 
> 
> 
> About the screen garbling, I was using custom timings I found here for 120hz before it went garbled.
> 
> I'm pretty uneducated about these settings, though, so I don't know how to modify these further. I would appreciate any help.


Sir, that's a night and day difference! I'm receiving mine today and I'll definitely try to do it the way you did (If I had BLB issues). It looks perfect


----------



## TrptJim

I think I found the answer for my screen garbling. It looked suspiciously like GPU memory problems, so I hopped on Google to connect some dots. Apparently GPUs don't use idle clockrates on their memory for extreme resolutions/refresh rates. I noticed that idle temps were 14C (36C to 50C) higher than with my old 1080p 120hz setup, and I think that the garbled mess may have been caused by the memory failing at that speed; I was giving my GPU's memory a permanent stress test. I returned them to default speeds, which lowered temps by 5C to 45C, so we'll see if things are smooth from here on out.










Here's my clock speeds at the desktop. GPU is clocked down, memory is not.


----------



## air tree

What is a good 3 monitor mount stand? I need to mount a X star and 2 Dell 23" monitors.


----------



## theilya

I updated to windows 8 recently and I just noticed I have 4 weird lines on the edge of the screen.

any ideas where it came from and how do I remove it?


----------



## Duffsta82

Cookybiscuit, Hi i brought a xstar off dream-seller arrived last week iam really sensitive to PWM (backlight flicker) it only seems to have pwm on the first 2 clicks from the bottom brightness which is amazing !! but sad thing is the box was damaged on the journey over and theres a mark on the screen







so iam sending it back this week and ive brought a qnix from overclockmonitors should arrive next week. Apart from the damage no BLB and no dead pixels and no pwm.. it doesn't flicker like your one does now iam scared hope i don't receive one that flickers at high brightness or even low they must all be different backlights?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> I had my monitor OCed to 120Hz and decided to update my Nvidia Driver but now my PC is constantly freezing. What should I do?


There's a new value that needs to be patched for SLI with some cards.

Get the latest version of the patcher: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## Mbalmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> I updated to windows 8 recently and I just noticed I have 4 weird lines on the edge of the screen.
> 
> any ideas where it came from and how do I remove it?


The problem is that your house is haunted and you need to move. There is a weird clown face that is reflecting off of your screen. I don't think you can see it because you are under its power. Move away very fast.


----------



## mboner1

My power brick for the monitor is getting super hot, anyone running the monitor 24/7 ??


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> The problem is that your house is haunted and you need to move. There is a weird clown face that is reflecting off of your screen. I don't think you can see it because you are under its power. Move away very fast.


+1 rep for making me laugh my ass off








edit/ Seriously every time I look at that pic and read your post it I cant stop laughing.. man i need some coffee.


----------



## yasamoka

@Cookybiscuit & Jerrolds: can you test for PWM flicker using TFTCentral's method? Use a camera with a 1/10 exposure.

I couldn't pick up any PWM flicker on my own Qnix QX2710 using this method, but I can try again. The Qnix might have 2 models, one with PWM and one without.

At the lowest brightness I don't have any strobing that I can notice, but I'm sure that I could notice it if it was there, particularly if it's not at regular intervals.

EDIT: I have a 60FPS handycam that I could test with when I get back home. Surely it could pick up the strobing at least as easily as the camera you used in that video picked it up, as that video is running at 30FPS.


----------



## Duffsta82

Yasamoka I think you might be right about the possibility of 2 models, I couldnt see any PWM on the XStar I am sending back, the qnix I brought will be here next week I'll check when it arrives, on my other LED monitors I can clearly see PWM with a camera viewing it..


----------



## mboner1

Hey guys, quick question about vesa mounting my qnix..

If i was to vesa mount it, and i didn't want to take it apart to risk worsening the back light bleed (as i have none) could i just leave the neck hanging out and still just connect the vesa mount, or do i need to open it up to make sure there are no wires in the way?? Cheers.

Also that tutorial is just for DIY'ers yeah? I just want to buy one and chuck it on without having to open up the monitor.


----------



## polomintus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polomintus*
> 
> Sorry if this is a silly question but I want to know if the Qnix or X-Star will work on a dual-link DVI-I port.... I've looked through the FAQ on the first page and all it mentions is DVI-D Duallink
> 
> Now it is my understanding and correct me if I'm wrong is that a DVI-I is both Digital and Analog so a DVI-I Dual link is equal or better in some ways for the both support....
> 
> So will these screens work on a dual-link DVI-I Card (The card I have is a Geforce GTX275 which has 2 Dual Link DVI-I ports.) And I believe the max resolution is 2560x1440 which matches the same as the screen in any case... (I know the games will take a hit in FPS, this is'nt a concern)... The reason I ask this question is because these korean sellers do not list my card as compatible and in fact there are many Dual Link DVI-I and Even DVI-D they don't list... So will it work or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx


Sorry to bump this post, I'm eager to order this screen and I don't want to waste my money could someone answer?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polomintus*
> 
> Sorry to bump this post, I'm eager to order this screen and I don't want to waste my money could someone answer?


Yes, it will work.


----------



## jerrolds

You can if you want..but itll be super ugly - opening it wont affect BLB in any way...its the metal frame that causes it. Youre safe to remove the bezel, and replace the stand without affecting your BLB.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polomintus*
> 
> Sorry to bump this post, I'm eager to order this screen and I don't want to waste my money could someone answer?


DVI-I stands for integrated - supports both DVI-D (digital) and A (analog) - itll work as long as you have a dual link DVI output and a video card that can support 1440p


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> You can if you want..but itll be super ugly - opening it wont affect BLB in any way...its the metal frame that causes it. Youre safe to remove the bezel, and replace the stand without affecting your BLB.


Cheers man, i'm just really happy with everything except the stand, and i generally don't stick with a monitor for long but this ones a keeper.. so i don't want to damage it myself lol. I think i will just try vesa mounting it without opening it up and leaving the glass neck hanging out and seeing if i can live with it.. if not i will have to take it apart to get it off, i was mainly concerned of doing damage by not opening it and checking for wires where i'm going to be screwing the holes, probably a stupid question but i haven't really looked into vesa mounting until now. Cheers.

Is there any reason this vesa stand won't work with the qnix?? It says it's specified for 17- 23 inch monitors but supports up to 15kg, the qnix is only 7kg tops.

http://www.mwave.com.au/product/brateck-lcd-monitor-table-stand-warm-desk-clamp-black-vesa-75100mm-15kg-aa32030#detailTabs=tabOverview


----------



## biggyk

Mine just arrived this morning. Can't wait to get home. Ordered from overclockmonitor.com ordered Sunday night. Pretty fast shipping. Their replies to email are pretty quick.


----------



## Doc3379

Just thought I would post a quick report on my experience to add to the mix. I ordered an X-Star DP2710 (Matte) from Dream-Seller last Monday Sept 30. It arrived at my house in Georgia 4 days later on Thursday Oct 3. Mine was shipped in the original box with no outer box or wrapping and it made the trip just fine. The monitor itself is in excellent condition as well! I've been using an Asus VG248QE 120Hz TN panel and I am blown away at how incredible the colors are on this X-Star. (I have a Spyder 4 that I calibrated it with as well.) There is hardly any light bleed and I can't even notice it in games. There is 1 dead pixel that is all the way on the far right side of the screen, completely out of the way. If it were one more pixel over to the right you wouldn't even be able to see it. I've had mine overclocked to 96Hz since the first day I got it and have not noticed any screen retention or distortion. I will more than likely be buying two more of these in the next couple months.


----------



## VENAXIS

Just received my QNIX QX2710 Ev. II screen today (Perfect Pixel) from *accessorieswhole*, and I gotta say it's beautiful. The only problems I'm having is what appears to be a stuck pixel in the middle bottom of the screen, where my Windows 7 toolbar is, and a bit excessive BLB at the bottom right and left (Very noticeable, sometimes even at bright screens - I'll try to fix this later). It is very annoying to see as I was hoping for a perfect pixel screen, but that's okay. I opened a case just now and hoping for decent refund.


----------



## Mbalmer

Seriously, what is this part that I outlined? Is it your reflection? Doesn't seem to me that it is because you wouldn't be facing that way when taking a picture.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, what is this part that I outlined? Is it your reflection? Doesn't seem to me that it is because you wouldn't be facing that way when taking a picture.


id be tripping ballz bro holdin my fire power tight lol


























































straight up someone from another planet wtachin you jeese they like you talk tot hem ig uessssl ol


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, what is this part that I outlined? Is it your reflection? Doesn't seem to me that it is because you wouldn't be facing that way when taking a picture.


Dude! Hahahaha


----------



## Mbalmer

I don't want to derail the thread, but someone really does have some explaining to do with this picture. If he/she can't, then they have a ghost problem. I don't care what anyone says, but I believe in ghosts. I spent a night at the Villisca Axe Murder House, and I am a believer.


----------



## eculley65

I honestly don't know why I got so lucky, but, I got my Qnix today from a newegg seller. I did NOT pay extra for a pixel perfect display. However, I have 0 dead pixels. The colors, out of the box, are absolutely incredible. I checked for light bleed and I really cannot see any.

I was sure I was going to have something to complain about, but I have nothing.. so far.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> I don't want to derail the thread, but someone really does have some explaining to do with this picture. If he/she can't, then they have a ghost problem. I don't care what anyone says, but I believe in ghosts. I spent a night at the Villisca Axe Murder House, and I am a believer.


I would hazard to guess that it was a movie or show and the picture was taken at a bad angle. Otherwise, there's the chance it was a glossy version and the reflection of someone appeared on the photo. Pretty funny picture though!


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I would hazard to guess that it was a movie or show and the picture was taken at a bad angle. Otherwise, there's the chance it was a glossy version and the reflection of someone appeared on the photo. Pretty funny picture though!


It was a hipster nerd selfie. Dude was trying to be artsy by showing the vertical lines thru the reflection of his face. Or are those his blinds?

Or ghosts.


----------



## theilya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, what is this part that I outlined? Is it your reflection? Doesn't seem to me that it is because you wouldn't be facing that way when taking a picture.


its not a reflection, I just have a movie playing. (supernatural)
I only noticed the lines on the black background

but the lines are persistent on every background.

can i get some serious answers please


----------



## birthdaymonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Luckily with the X-Star you just have to tug on the clear stub of the stand until it comes off, you don't need to open up the casing.


Wow, thanks for that! I'm so glad I posted here before going to the trouble of opening my monitor. The clear plastic stub came out with a little bit of wiggling and force.


----------



## Mbalmer

Were you on Windows 7 before your update? Try going back and seeing if the lines are still there. I'll be honest, that doesn't make any sense to me as far as Windows 8 causing this, but lets try that first.


----------



## theilya

the lines appeared after I had monitor running for about 48hr straight.
I think it overheated or something. Ill shut it down for couple hours and see if it comes back.

last resort is back towindows 7 i guess


----------



## Mbalmer

Why did you have your monitor running for so long? Also, is it possible that it is screen burn in?


----------



## theilya

botting WoW....









I usually just leave my computer running 24/7

edit: screen burn in seems to fit as the pattern of the lines fit this:


THANK YOU

gave you reps









any ideas on how to fix it?


----------



## Mbalmer

Botting? Not sure what that is.

Anyway, There are some youtube videos that you can run as well as "pixel fixer apps" that you can run. Sometimes this works and sometimes not. I would try them and see what you get. I doubt just turning it off for a while will fix it.

In my honest opinion, your monitor is screwed. Hope I'm wrong.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> botting WoW....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually just leave my computer running 24/7
> 
> edit: screen burn in seems to fit as the pattern of the lines fit this:
> 
> 
> THANK YOU
> 
> gave you reps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any ideas on how to fix it?


Normally to fix any Image Retention you can run static for a few hours (or overnight, or 2) - google LCD Repair v2 and youll find on there. You can also try and create "inverse" images so that all the other pixels get worked and "catch up" to the image retention.

Just be aware that if you run a dvd or video and it freezes to some state (showing a logo) and it stays like that for a good amount of time..you might produce more image retention.


----------



## theilya

run the burn fix and it seemed to have fixed it.
its gone pretty much

going to also run it overnight jsut in case


----------



## biggyk

Guys I was just scrolling through the thread trying to find the answer. I was able to oc to 120hz. Awesome! When I update my nvidia drivers in the future, do I need to revert back to 60hz first or anything like that before proceeding?


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Normally to fix any Image Retention you can run static for a few hours (or overnight, or 2) - google LCD Repair v2 and youll find on there. You can also try and create "inverse" images so that all the other pixels get worked and "catch up" to the image retention.
> 
> Just be aware that if you run a dvd or video and it freezes to some state (showing a logo) and it stays like that for a good amount of time..you might produce more image retention.


Would running these utility's permanently fix retention? Or could you still get it afterwards?


----------



## Mbalmer

You could still get it afterwards. It doesn't prevent any future damage. Is that what you are asking?


----------



## Xentar712

Got my 3rd QNIX in today. Unlike the last two which were tempered glass(aka matte with a glass pane covering it), this one was glossy. I got this one from Accessorieswhile since green-sum was out of stock. I have to say, I really like the package that was sent. It was boxed within a box, which is nice. I have no BLB whatsoever - not even a tiny bit! I do have 1 dead pixel but like the others I've seen, I hardly notice it(it's near the middle too). OC to 120Hz with no problems at all. With the dead pixel, this is the best one I've gotten so far, hands down.

One thing to note is how my monitor was packaged. I almost believe that this seller actually does check their models. My box had no tape on it and looked like it had been opened before. There was also extra stuff done on the inside. For example, the stand was securely taped to the foam, the cardboard was taped to the monitor, there was an extra piece of plastic taped to the screen and the bag that contained the monitor had signs of use. None of the other two I received were like this. In fact, they were both identically packaged. Of course there's no way to prove this, but I found it interesting.

Now onto glossy vs matte, I can confirm that there isn't a whole lot of difference in picture quality but you can tell. It's really hard to show you but I did try and take pictures of the same pictures to illustrate. Note that these are on different computers so the calibration is slightly different(haven't calibrated my new one yet because I don't want to). The pictures are so close to being the same unless you really zoom in. I can say that the glossy model's text is ever so slightly sharper but that's about it. It's really the best matte coating I've ever seen in a monitor. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me as I don't check the thread as much as I used to.

1glossy.JPG 7823k .JPG file


1matte.JPG 7089k .JPG file


2glossy.JPG 8014k .JPG file


2matte.JPG 6738k .JPG file


----------



## timaishu

So I ended up returning my monitor back to ipsledmonitors.com, was going to sell it to a member here, but it unfortunately didn't work out. I bought my next one through overclockmonitors.com, I had emailed them a bit and liked their communication with me, also talked to another guy from this thread who had a good experience. I got their pixel perfect model as they told me that they check every monitor to see which they will list it as (pixel perfect or standard), so I figured it was worth the extra price. Hope it all works out in my favor.


----------



## eculley65

proof for club membership.


----------



## hutt132

Does anyone know how many brightness clicks this monitor goes up to?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Mine has 30 clicks before it stops registering the button presses.


----------



## VENAXIS

Anyone else having a gay pixel that changes color? Mine changes color depending on the background (I'll post results and pixel colors on different background colors once I get back home). I tried many fixes out there but to no avail.. Any help would be appreciated







(I hope it's not a dead sub-pixel!







)


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> Anyone else having a gay pixel that changes color? Mine changes color depending on the background (I'll post results and pixel colors on different background colors once I get back home). I tried many fixes out there but to no avail.. Any help would be appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I hope it's not a dead sub-pixel!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I have one like that.

It only shows up sometimes though and only on very specific colors...so odd.


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> I have one like that.
> 
> It only shows up sometimes though and only on very specific colors...so odd.


Yes same with mine. Hope there is a fix for it, but If it was a dead sub-pixel then I'll just settle for a refund (Difference between the normal and the Perfect Pixel price).


----------



## SeekerZA

Here is my 120Hz OC settings i found stable so far. Setup yesterday only after endless browsing.



Not much info is said about overclocking panel to 120Hz besides bringing the pixel clock down. Did i do it right?

I had mine first set to the common 96Hz but waited it out for a thicker cable before jumping to 120Hz.

With regards to the color profile, I've tested many and when i had my display on 96Hz i found shaolin95's color profile best!

Evens now with 120Hz set, i yet again found his 120Hz color profile best









My testing was looking at various still images, and pausing HD video's at different scenes ( check background, colors, darkness, does it appear better? Worst? Ask yourself that when looking for a Great color profile )

all this while browsing through different color profiles on the fly with the "Display Profile" app.

Hope this helps others like me as well


----------



## mboner1

Alright, so i took everyones advice and vesa mounted my qnix, wasn't feeling to safe with the original stand.. now i'm feeling even less safe!!! had a few issues, the screws for the vesa panel thing didn't go all the way in so i had to get some washers , but that is the least of my problems ( i think.. i hope...) The vesa mount and arm seem to be hanging. The supposed weight this is supposed to support is 15 kg and this should be way under, but i am currently living in fear of it just falling over. Here's a few pics, don't mind the mess currently setting it all up so yeah, am i worrying stupidly or is this not how it's meant to be!!!! PLEASE HELP!!!! Thanks!!


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Alright, so i took everyones advice and vesa mounted my qnix, wasn't feeling to safe with the original stand.. now i'm feeling even less safe!!! had a few issues, the screws for the vesa panel thing didn't go all the way in so i had to get some washers , but that is the least of my problems ( i think.. i hope...) The vesa mount and arm seem to be hanging. The supposed weight this is supposed to support is 15 kg and this should be way under, but i am currently living in fear of it just falling over. Here's a few pics, don't mind the mess currently setting it all up so yeah, am i worrying stupidly or is this not how it's meant to be!!!! PLEASE HELP!!!! Thanks!!


It doesn't look like it's standing straight, is that normal for this mount? I'd like to know as well. Mine (VideoSecu wall mount) says it can take up to 20KG (44lbs) [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1UYHG]. I'm gonna post some pictures of it along with the proof of ownership of my QX2710 soon.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> It doesn't look like it's standing straight, is that normal for this mount? I'd like to know as well. Mine (VideoSecu wall mount) says it can take up to 20KG (44lbs) [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1UYHG]. I'm gonna post some pictures of it along with the proof of ownership of my QX2710 soon.


That's what i'm trying to remember , i think the arm might have been a bit tilted before placing the monitor, i would just take it all apart and do it again, but this mount is balls and it's a 2 person job and my girlfriend is getting a bit ****ty with me calling her in to support the monitor "just in case" lol.

Is your monitor arm tilted at all??


----------



## mboner1

just re did it with better placement of the stand and still the same result. Wasn't leaning until i put the monitor on. Is it gonna snap???


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> That's what i'm trying to remember , i think the arm might have been a bit tilted before placing the monitor, i would just take it all apart and do it again, but this mount is balls and it's a 2 person job and my girlfriend is getting a bit ****ty with me calling her in to support the monitor "just in case" lol.
> 
> Is your monitor arm tilted at all??


Hahahahaha!









I haven't mounted it yet because I wanted to fix my extreme BLB issues first. I'll post pictures in the thread asap








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> just re did it with better placement of the stand and still the same result. Wasn't leaning until i put the monitor on. Is it gonna snap???


Man I'd be worried..







I hope somebody with experience in VESA mounts could reply. I'm interested to know as well.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> Hahahahaha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't mounted it yet because I wanted to fix my extreme BLB issues first. I'll post pictures in the thread asap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man I'd be worried..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope somebody with experience in VESA mounts could reply. I'm interested to know as well.


Yeah, i am more than a little concerned. I Would really like it as well, if only i felt comfortable with it supporting the weight. I would hate to see something that does actually weigh the supposed maximum weight this stand supports (15kg.)

Looking forward to seeing how yours turns out.

Few more pics , still messy soz, if anyone can let me know if i should take it off cos it's dangerous that would be great


----------



## polomintus

Right, Just got paid and its time to order this sucker...

But the question is should I get the Glossy or the Matt Version of the X-Star..... Grrrrr choices...

Another thing is that should I take out eBays insurance for an additionally £35.00 meaning Its covered for 3 years and even if I drop the screen in an accidental rage they will repair or refund







Choices.... Any input appreciated .


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Here is my 120Hz OC settings i found stable so far. Setup yesterday only after endless browsing.
> 
> 
> 
> Not much info is said about overclocking panel to 120Hz besides bringing the pixel clock down. Did i do it right?
> 
> I had mine first set to the common 96Hz but waited it out for a thicker cable before jumping to 120Hz.
> 
> With regards to the color profile, I've tested many and when i had my display on 96Hz i found shaolin95's color profile best!
> 
> Evens now with 120Hz set, i yet again found his 120Hz color profile best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My testing was looking at various still images, and pausing HD video's at different scenes ( check background, colors, darkness, does it appear better? Worst? Ask yourself that when looking for a Great color profile )
> 
> all this while browsing through different color profiles on the fly with the "Display Profile" app.
> 
> Hope this helps others like me as well


Glad you are liking my settings amigo!
And thanks for sharing your OC. I am going to give it a try as with tri sli I noticed some issues gaming at 120Hz so I will try your settings.


----------



## biggyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polomintus*
> 
> Right, Just got paid and its time to order this sucker...
> 
> But the question is should I get the Glossy or the Matt Version of the X-Star..... Grrrrr choices...
> 
> Another thing is that should I take out eBays insurance for an additionally £35.00 meaning Its covered for 3 years and even if I drop the screen in an accidental rage they will repair or refund
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Choices.... Any input appreciated .


I picked matte because I don't like reflections from any light that's in the room.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Glad you are liking my settings amigo!
> And thanks for sharing your OC. I am going to give it a try as with tri sli I noticed some issues gaming at 120Hz so I will try your settings.


What kind of issues gaming? I have a single video card, is changing timing necessary?

A question I have for the rest. Do I need to unpatch and go back to 60hz before upgrading my video drivers?


----------



## Kokin

The matte is actually a semi-glossy, but it does not reflect light like glossy versions. It is not similar to the matte that Dell or HP monitors use.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biggyk*
> 
> I picked matte because I don't like reflections from any light that's in the room.
> What kind of issues gaming? I have a single video card, is changing timing necessary?


In my case I saw a few anomalies like lines, some random red or blue line across the screen from time to time which I did not get before doing SLI so I am hoping timings will fix it. Mine is showing like 480s clock right now.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biggyk*
> 
> A question I have for the rest. Do I need to unpatch and go back to 60hz before upgrading my video drivers?


I'd like to know this as well.


----------



## polomintus

Gosh! Gonna be £85 in Duty Fees.... Almost half the cost of the unit, that's just ridiculous.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yeah, i am more than a little concerned. I Would really like it as well, if only i felt comfortable with it supporting the weight. I would hate to see something that does actually weigh the supposed maximum weight this stand supports (15kg.)
> 
> Looking forward to seeing how yours turns out.
> 
> Few more pics , still messy soz, if anyone can let me know if i should take it off cos it's dangerous that would be great


Heh - dont worry, i opened up the casing 4 times and i just put it on a pillow face down to unscrew, the flipped it over to pry the bezel off.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biggyk*
> 
> A question I have for the rest. Do I need to unpatch and go back to 60hz before upgrading my video drivers?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I'd like to know this as well.


Nope - go ahead and update your video card drivers normally. This will effectively "unpatch" your monitor. Once installed (and restarted) go ahead and re-patch and reboot your computer. When you get back all your CRU values will return.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Glad you are liking my settings amigo!
> And thanks for sharing your OC. I am going to give it a try as with tri sli I noticed some issues gaming at 120Hz so I will try your settings.


REP to you for sharing with us your settings.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> REP to you for sharing with us your settings.


As far as ive seen - my settings have the lowest Pixel Clock @ 120hz for Radeon cards (Spartan F8 has lower for Geforce i believe) ..give these a shot


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Heh - dont worry, i opened up the casing 4 times and i just put it on a pillow face down to unscrew, the flipped it over to pry the bezel off.


Any tips or stuff I need to know before opening it? I don't wanna break anything









This is my huge issue with the screen


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> Any tips or stuff I need to know before opening it? I don't wanna break anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my huge issue with the screen


Just follow the videos and you'll be fine. I was a little less careful than he was and mine ended up ok. Biggest spot to be careful IMO is unscrewing the backlight board and letting it dangle. One bad move could probably rip the ribbon cables off. By the way, is that BLB or glow?


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Just follow the videos and you'll be fine. I was a little less careful than he was and mine ended up ok. Biggest spot to be careful IMO is unscrewing the backlight board and letting it dangle. One bad move could probably rip the ribbon cables off. By the way, is that BLB or glow?


Alright I'll make sure I do it carefully, thanks!









Sadly that's BLB..


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> Alright I'll make sure I do it carefully, thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly that's BLB..


Oh, and use a plastic opening tool instead of a screwdriver if you want your casing to not look like it was chewed open. If you don't have one now, get some for the future. Chances are you will use one again someday. You can get a dozen. for $5 on eBay


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> Any tips or stuff I need to know before opening it? I don't wanna break anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my huge issue with the screen


I used a butter knife to pry the casing off lol - but you might want to be careful as i knicked the plastic in some places. Just put it into the seam and twist, the first time you take the casing off its a bit stubborn so try 2 butter knives to lessen the pressure on one point







Just keep turning until you hear a pop - dont worry it wont break, just keep aware of the case.

Make sure you have a set of screwdrivers, because the panel that houses the board uses something like 1mm philips head screws (very tiny) and youre going to need to remove it to get to the other screws that hold the metal frame in place

The metal frame uses tabs or something to keep it in place, IIRC i had the panel face down so i can use my butter knife to pry the tab out and over the latch thing







Once the frame was loose i flipped it back onto its back and lifted it out and away so i can straighten it.

Good luck - its not hard, just be careful and youll be fine.


----------



## air tree

Any good vesa mounts you guys would recommend that would hold 1x 27" and 2x 23" monitors?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quick question about frame skipping & stuttering,

I have no stuttering or frame skipping whatsoever when only running the Qnix at 120Hz, after closing background programs like Skype, Steam, DropBox, Firewall, etc etc.

However, i get occasional stuttering & frame skipping when I have 2 or 3 displays hooked up, along with all my background programs running.

I THINK I have noticed some micro-stutters in games as well with my background programs and multiple displays.

Is this normal?


----------



## dante`afk

Is a third party DVI-D cable mandatory or is the included one sufficient?

And if so, please explain the specifics.


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> Is a third party DVI-D cable mandatory or is the included one sufficient?
> 
> And if so, please explain the specifics.


Included one is sufficient.


----------



## SEALBoy

When I try and overclock my QNIX, the image dims and I get image retention artifacts developing fairly quickly. I can fix the image by messing around with the color settings, but is there any fix for the image retention? I have tried overlocking from 120 Hz all the way down to 96Hz, but I get image retention at all of those levels.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SEALBoy*
> 
> When I try and overclock my QNIX, the image dims and I get image retention artifacts developing fairly quickly. I can fix the image by messing around with the color settings, but is there any fix for the image retention? I have tried overlocking from 120 Hz all the way down to 96Hz, but I get image retention at all of those levels.


Try knocking down your monitors brightness (using buttons under the panel) to ~11 clicks above minium and see if that helps.


----------



## eculley65

so.. my qnix has OSD that actually works. Anyone else?


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eculley65*
> 
> so.. my qnix has OSD that actually works. Anyone else?


Take a picture.


----------



## timaishu

Ohhh I wish overclockmonitors.com would ship mine already. Was hoping they would ship quick, so far its looking like I will probably get it either Monday or Saturday(if the shipper does Saturday that is). I see the shipping label was made, but UPS doesn't actually have it yet it seems.


----------



## RemagCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> You could still get it afterwards. It doesn't prevent any future damage. Is that what you are asking?


Yup, that answers that, thanks.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Ohhh I wish overclockmonitors.com would ship mine already. Was hoping they would ship quick, so far its looking like I will probably get it either Monday or Saturday(if the shipper does Saturday that is). I see the shipping label was made, but UPS doesn't actually have it yet it seems.


it might be well on the way, one I ordered from korea was in kentucky going through customs before it ever showed anything on the tracking.


----------



## eculley65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Take a picture.


I'll post a video when I get home.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Ohhh I wish overclockmonitors.com would ship mine already. Was hoping they would ship quick, so far its looking like I will probably get it either Monday or Saturday(if the shipper does Saturday that is). I see the shipping label was made, but UPS doesn't actually have it yet it seems.


mmm with me it looks like it was not shipping but dont forget the time difference too. I got the tracking later that night. Good luck


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> mmm with me it looks like it was not shipping but dont forget the time difference too. I got the tracking later that night. Good luck


I ordered mine yesterday at noon.


----------



## shaolin95

Ouch that sucks...did you check back with them?


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Ouch that sucks...did you check back with them?


I emailed them, but they only respond around 11pm-1am pst, so I will know tonight. I logged into my account there and was able to pull up my tracking#, so I atleast know a label was made, it just doesn't say UPS actually has it yet.


----------



## mboner1

So i returned the desk vesa mount i bought and picked up this stand.. http://www.usa.philips.com/c/tv-and-monitor-accessories/sb1s22w_27/prd/en/

Works great except the monitor slides to the bottom, looks like it can't handle the weight??? Still going to keep using it with the monitor at the lowest height tho.


----------



## eculley65

I was asked for photos.. I decided to post a video.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eculley65*
> 
> I was asked for photos.. I decided to post a video.


Showoff.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Showoff.


I see somone is a bit jelly.









Anyway thanks for posting the video! Do the monitors without the OSD still have the ability to change the color settings, but just doing it blind?


----------



## TrptJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> Any tips or stuff I need to know before opening it? I don't wanna break anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my huge issue with the screen


The yellow light means that you may have a bent panel. If you aren't sending it back, definitely open the casing and take a look. Check my post in this thread to see how I fixed mine. I should compile them into one post.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I see somone is a bit jelly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway thanks for posting the video! Do the monitors without the OSD still have the ability to change the color settings, but just doing it blind?


Yeah, i was only playin.


----------



## VegetarianEater

OSD might mean more input lag, no?

nice that you can set up the color and all, but i'd rather have the one with just brightness control and no input lag...


----------



## theilya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Glad you are liking my settings amigo!
> And thanks for sharing your OC. I am going to give it a try as with tri sli I noticed some issues gaming at 120Hz so I will try your settings.


I checked out your 120hz ICC profile and it just so bright on my monitor.
brightness 10 clicks from the darkest setting


----------



## caenlen

When I go to play some games, my color profile changes when I exit the game, I have to manually go back an enforce my color profile in color management. Any way to fix this? GTX 780 + QNIX at 102hz, using the 110hz profile listed on front page. Nvidia driver is patched and I am OC'ing through Nvidia not CRU.


----------



## SeekerZA

I recently started using Color Profile Keeper v0.5.

Download that, choose your color profile and hit lock. I set it to start with windows on bootup.

That should help


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> I checked out your 120hz ICC profile and it just so bright on my monitor.
> brightness 10 clicks from the darkest setting


It was calibrated for 120cda on a dark room so no idea why it will be too bright for you, specially since it seems for gaming some people like brighter.
I got one calibrated with ambient reading on which makes things darker even with a reading of lux 0
You can test this:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11789282/Forum120hz2ndtry11ClicksD65.icm


----------



## Duffsta82

Timaishu i know your excited bud but have some patience they seem like a really legit company so far id recommend them to anyone, From my last experience with a ebay seller i had to send it back cos it was damaged on the way over, as long as it turns up not damaged is the main thing. Wednesday was a public holiday in South Korea so that explains why you didn't hear till Thursday. I ordered mine from them Tuesday sent on Thursday i should get it Monday i will do a full review once it arrives.

Eculley65 you must have the DP ( Dual Input Port version ) which does have OSD But i don't think you are able to overclock much more than 60hz from what ive heard... Have you attempted to overclock ?


----------



## Duffsta82

Eculley65, Also as VegetarianEater stated it could possibly have more input lag compared to the non DP version..


----------



## eculley65

I use the display to game primarily. I have not noticed any sort of input lag on this monitor. Take that how you will


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> I recently started using Color Profile Keeper v0.5.
> 
> Download that, choose your color profile and hit lock. I set it to start with windows on bootup.
> 
> That should help


thanks a ton. that works.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> As far as ive seen - my settings have the lowest Pixel Clock @ 120hz for Radeon cards (Spartan F8 has lower for Geforce i believe) ..give these a shot


Just tried and it worked









Where is Spartan F8's one? i want to give it a go


----------



## Duffsta82

eculley65 have you tried overclocking yet?


----------



## eculley65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duffsta82*
> 
> eculley65 have you tried overclocking yet?


As soon as I got it, I bumped it to 96.. works great, no issues at all. I have yet to try 120, though.


----------



## dorcopio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eculley65*
> 
> As soon as I got it, I bumped it to 96.. works great, no issues at all. I have yet to try 120, though.


So does the OSD affect overclockability none at all?


----------



## Duffsta82

That's interesting then, maybe you got lucky


----------



## SeekerZA

Was playing around a lot more.

My new results, not much difference from before but i did get the pixel clock lower


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Just tried and it worked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where is Spartan F8's one? i want to give it a go


Quote:


> Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post
> 
> ...............................H.....................V
> Active pixels...2560...............1440
> Front porch.......48.....................2
> Sync width.........32.....................2
> Total pixels.....2595...............1444
> (this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
> Pixel [email protected] (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
> Pixel [email protected]
> ...................................................^
> this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU. If you use just the nvidia control panel and use CVT reduced you are at like 500Mhz already. With just the control panel i was able to get 134Hz which is 559Mhz before things got messy. Thinking of this as a kinda limit i tried to get the pixel clock as low as possible and then try again. This got me to 142hz which was just under the pixel clock of what i got before confirming they are very relative to each other. Next after adding the monoprice cable that was better than stock i got to 152Hz at just over the original 559Mhz showing some bandwidth improvement. Now since i hate uniformity issues i have set it back to 120hz but with the newly found total pixels and overall lower pixel clock. This reduced the "strain" i guess that was on the cable for the overclock and vastly decreased negative overclocking effects(gamma shift was better, uniformity was pretty much gone, etc)
> 
> Also using this same methodology i tried downsampling the screen to see how high the pixel count could go on this monitor. I am not going to get too much into it but i was able to get [email protected] with an overall pixel clock of 561Mhz. Please be careful when downsampling though as it can cause the monitor to go into test mode and also corrupt the start resolution. If you do get where restarting the PC does not bring the picture back connect a separate monitor and boot windows, then connect the Qnix as secondary. After that you can switch it to primary and go on as normal. If anyone sees anywhere this can be improved PLEASE jump in. I have done a lot of reading but there could always be something i missed.
> 
> Hopefully this helps some people get 120hz or at least some better results at that refresh thumb.gif
> 
> EDIT: Fixed weird space removal


I tried his .2595...............1444 but i guess it was too much for my cable maybe..just went into test mode. 2652x1445 worked great for me and no more lines or issues when gaming at 120hz


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Was playing around a lot more.
> 
> My new results, not much difference from before but i did get the pixel clock lower


Thanks for this, I was using shaolin95's to start with (and props to him for posting his timings) but was getting one narrow stripe down the monitor (only on OCN and with BF4 actually). These settings have sorted that. Between 3 kids and work, I don't get enough time to play around with the settings much so you guys have saved me a lot of time, and now I can really enjoy my new toy


----------



## theilya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Was playing around a lot more.
> 
> My new results, not much difference from before but i did get the pixel clock lower


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> It was calibrated for 120cda on a dark room so no idea why it will be too bright for you, specially since it seems for gaming some people like brighter.
> I got one calibrated with ambient reading on which makes things darker even with a reading of lux 0
> You can test this:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11789282/Forum120hz2ndtry11ClicksD65.icm


@shaolin95, thanks ill give it a shot.

@SeekerZA, can you please explain the benefits of lower pixel clock?


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> Thanks for this, I was using shaolin95's to start with (and props to him for posting his timings) but was getting one narrow stripe down the monitor (only on OCN and with BF4 actually). These settings have sorted that. Between 3 kids and work, I don't get enough time to play around with the settings much so you guys have saved me a lot of time, and now I can really enjoy my new toy


I dont even recall posting timings just ICS profiles. I must be losing my mind or is the high fever I got


----------



## SeekerZA

To my understanding from reading, i stand corrected keep that in mind!

Lowering pixel clock is what we want when overclocking these panels, to help reduce the overclock effects which are visibly seen the higher you overclock.

I can see the difference from 96Hz to 120Hz. Well almost hard to tell now though









BUT the overall image went darker and the color felt slightly drawn back.


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> I dont even recall posting timings just ICS profiles. I must be losing my mind or is the high fever I got


Oops, not your fever, just me! I am actually using your ICC profile for 120Hz, which is great, so thanks for that! Been so busy trawling through this thread to get the best info, I lose track...


----------



## shaolin95

hahah cool. Glad that worked. Its a good thread sharing stuff like I am using someone elses timing settings etc so it is very useful.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

so basically find whatever OC you can run with no lines, then start decreasing the pixel clock for better colors until you get artifacts?

And people are saying mono price cables are actually better?


----------



## theilya

wrong topic

edit


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrptJim*
> 
> The yellow light means that you may have a bent panel. If you aren't sending it back, definitely open the casing and take a look. Check my post in this thread to see how I fixed mine. I should compile them into one post.


Oh good thing it's fixable! I'll definitely check yours once I open it up.

Thanks!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I used a butter knife to pry the casing off lol - but you might want to be careful as i knicked the plastic in some places. Just put it into the seam and twist, the first time you take the casing off its a bit stubborn so try 2 butter knives to lessen the pressure on one point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just keep turning until you hear a pop - dont worry it wont break, just keep aware of the case.
> 
> Make sure you have a set of screwdrivers, because the panel that houses the board uses something like 1mm philips head screws (very tiny) and youre going to need to remove it to get to the other screws that hold the metal frame in place
> 
> The metal frame uses tabs or something to keep it in place, IIRC i had the panel face down so i can use my butter knife to pry the tab out and over the latch thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the frame was loose i flipped it back onto its back and lifted it out and away so i can straighten it.
> 
> Good luck - its not hard, just be careful and youll be fine.


Thanks a lot for answering! I'm gonna use a butter knife then, sounds safe too.

Thanks again!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xentar712*
> 
> Oh, and use a plastic opening tool instead of a screwdriver if you want your casing to not look like it was chewed open. If you don't have one now, get some for the future. Chances are you will use one again someday. You can get a dozen. for $5 on eBay


A dozen for $5? Not bad at all! I'll use a butter knife like jerrolds suggested.

Thanks!


----------



## omgoblins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> wrong topic
> 
> edit


Nice.

I have just a few questions before I buy a monitor that maybe someone could help me with. I've tried reading through the thread a bit and the 1st page, but I am juust a little bit unsure of what's what and when spending so much I want to be 100% confident.

1. I have an AMD 7950 3GB right now it's overclocked to 1100 / 1525 with no problems although I've had it at 1200/1700 before fine with Shogun 2, artifacting in Skyrim.
Is this a good video card for this monitor? I know it's not the worlds best, but it's pretty powerful I think. I actually have 2 of these cards, but I haven't crossfired them yet as I was going to use the second for another build, but if I have to I might put it in mine and just use my old 560-Ti for the other. I assume 2x 7950 would be enough to do 1440p but how high could I expect to overclock the *Monitor* with my gpus still keeping up? I know no one can say for sure, but a rough estimate would be great. Ideally I would like to shoot for 96Hz refresh rate, but I'm doubtful whether my one 7950 could push that alone.

2. Qnix or X-Star?
I know they are essentially the same and it seems most people go for the QNIX. Is there any reason to go for one over the other, like recent quality control or anything?

3. Where to buy. I see 4 options.
$309.90 - GreenSum do they get hit with customs charges now? I remember seeing someone say something about them or AW getting hit.
$346.48 - Amazon (ECOMADE ARENA)
$350.84 - ipsledmonitors
$359.58 (5-15 day ship) or $369.58 for 3-5 day shipping from neofeel
What is the best option for me? I live in the US. Is it worth it to pay $41 more from ipsledmonitors? I can't get a good read on the shipping/return situation from GreenSum. Some people saying they want you to pay but you can talk them out of it or have to do something to get them to? I wouldn't mind paying a little more to ensure return shipping is free and easy and/or that my money is staying in the US, but is that big of a difference (13%) worth it? Is there any difference in the quality of panels between the two vendors? The newegg and amazon look too risky to me.

4. It seems like I will need to buy a new cable and probably mount I see the mounts, but everyone talking about the monoprice cable and I don't see a link for it?

5. Is that it? Am I missing anything?

I'm really looking forward to upgrading from my 27" Hanns G 1980x1200 LCD monitor. It's a good number of years old now and even though there is no BLB or dead pixels, everything just feels kind of dull and its a big thick clunky monitor.

Thanks for any help guys, I know I must be the 10000th person to ask these questions


----------



## mboner1

Call me overly cautious but all The minor issues people have running at 120hz must mean its doing some sort of long term damage ?? It's not normal for 120hz to cause a dull image and lines surely. I think I'm just going to stick with 60hz, not to mention the fact that their aren't that many games I could have max settings in and maintain 120 fps.


----------



## jerrolds

@omgoblins

1. 7950, especially when overclocked is almost perfect for this panel. 90% of the games you can hit 120fps+, and the more modern games you can sacrifice things like AA/HBAO to get a good 90fps+. Just know that youre going as fast as your system allows, which is a good thing..nothing holding you back.

2. The are the same, the only reason i got a QNIX cuz it was cheaper than the XSTAR at the time

3. Korean ebay sellers are cheaper, harder to return, no real guarantees. IPSLedmonitors like companies still order from Korean ebay sellers but put your address for shipping - have the added cost of more insurance (shipping will be covered, or cheaper since its the US). Up to your level of braveness, most ppl get monitors fine from SK (i received 2 and theyre pretty much pixel perfect, one had BLB that i fixed). You get what you pay for here.

4. Just search for Dual Link DVI on monoprice - youll find them for around $10. Most of the time the supplied cable will do just fine.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> @omgoblins
> 
> 1. 7950, especially when overclocked is almost perfect for this panel. 90% of the games you can hit 120fps+, and the more modern games you can sacrifice things like AA/HBAO to get a good 90fps+. Just know that youre going as fast as your system allows, which is a good thing..nothing holding you back.


What 90% of games can hit 120fps+ @ 1440p on a single 7950?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Call me overly cautious but all Tue minor issues people have running at 120hz must mean its doing some sort of long term damage ?? It's not normal for 120hz to cause a dull image and lines surely. I think I'm just going to stick with 60hz, not to mention the fact that their aren't that many games I could have max settings in and maintain 120 fps.


Not necessarily. Almost all 120Hz OCs end up with a pixel clock above 450MHz (native capability of display controller). There's currently an increasing trend (finally!) for tightening your timings in order to lower that pixel clock, as that reduces the side effects of overclocking. The darkening is a gamma shift that occurs even with the pixel clock being way lower than 450MHz, such as @96Hz. It simply increases with pixel clock / refresh rate / both (tests have to be done to confirm).

Lines mean you've reached one of three bottlenecks: cable, monitor, graphics card. Lowering pixel clock will make it easier for all and will show a monitor bottleneck easier.


----------



## dante`afk

To the owners here, how is the picture quality compared for example to other IPS panels not from Korea? Are they equal or worse?

I can imagine since you have to calibrate colours on your own if you OC to 120hz that they are not that optimal?
How is the picture quality if you stay at 60hz compared to 120hz?

Furthermore, 1440p @120hz just cries for CF or SLI, a single card is just not sufficient, unless you play on low settings or like 30 fps gaming on max settings.

edit, another question: what is the benefit of 120hz if you cannot use it if you are on a single card?
edit2, if someone wants 120hz, wouldnt it be just better to get the BenQ XL2420T?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> To the owners here, how is the picture quality compared for example to other IPS panels not from Korea? Are they equal or worse?
> 
> I can imagine since you have to calibrate colours on your own if you OC to 120hz that they are not that optimal? Furthermore, 1440p @120hz just cries for CF or SLI, a single card is just not sufficient, unless you play on low settings or like 30 fps gaming on max settings.


Compared to other PLS panels which this is, it compares favorably. I owned the asus pb278q which is 1440p and the qnix is much better. Not sure if it's because i got a glossy panel and the asus was matte or whether this is better no matter what. But one other thing this is better for is 1920x1080p, i always noticed with the asus that 1080p content looked better on my hdtv, but this one 1080p looks better than my hdtv.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> To the owners here, how is the picture quality compared for example to other IPS panels not from Korea? Are they equal or worse?
> 
> I can imagine since you have to calibrate colours on your own if you OC to 120hz that they are not that optimal?
> How is the picture quality if you stay at 60hz compared to 120hz?
> 
> Furthermore, 1440p @120hz just cries for CF or SLI, a single card is just not sufficient, unless you play on low settings or like 30 fps gaming on max settings.
> 
> edit, another question: what is the benefit of 120hz if you cannot use it if you are on a single card?
> edit2, if someone wants 120hz, wouldnt it be just better to get the BenQ XL2420T?


All IPS/PLS panels come from LG/Samsung


----------



## biggyk

I over clocked to 120hz and I get no lines or artifacts. The picture did get a bit darker but did try a few different color configs. Do I really need to be changing the cru settings? Have been reading here but still unsure.


----------



## timaishu

Ohhhh, I gotta wait until Monday to get my new qnix.


----------



## eculley65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Ohhhh, I gotta wait until Monday to get my new qnix.


Just a couple of days ;-)


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> To the owners here, how is the picture quality compared for example to other IPS panels not from Korea? Are they equal or worse?
> 
> I can imagine since you have to calibrate colours on your own if you OC to 120hz that they are not that optimal?
> How is the picture quality if you stay at 60hz compared to 120hz?
> 
> Furthermore, 1440p @120hz just cries for CF or SLI, a single card is just not sufficient, unless you play on low settings or like 30 fps gaming on max settings.
> 
> edit, another question: what is the benefit of 120hz if you cannot use it if you are on a single card?
> edit2, if someone wants 120hz, wouldnt it be just better to get the BenQ XL2420T?


People seem to misunderstand the draw of a refresh rate higher than 60Hz, its not just the framerate. At 96Hz, theres far less vertical tearing than 60Hz, removing the need for vsync (which hurts framerate and induces input lag), also theres less input lag as the delay between the frame being produced and it appearing is reduced. You don't need to be able to get to 96Hz to reap the benefits.

I had a VG278H for about a year, the refresh rate was nice but the colours and viewing angles were a total joke. The Qnix is less expensive, looks a billion times better and is just as good for twitch gaming once overclocked to 96Hz, I guess the single input reduces input lag, tested my VG278H and Qnix side by side (120Hz/96Hz) couldn't feel any difference in delay, though admittedly the 120Hz image on the Asus was a tad smoother. I don't regret the switch one bit, if these were under a more popular name and sold at their current price in the west, no one would buy anything else.


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omgoblins*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> I have just a few questions before I buy a monitor that maybe someone could help me with. I've tried reading through the thread a bit and the 1st page, but I am juust a little bit unsure of what's what and when spending so much I want to be 100% confident.
> 
> 1. I have an AMD 7950 3GB right now it's overclocked to 1100 / 1525 with no problems although I've had it at 1200/1700 before fine with Shogun 2, artifacting in Skyrim.
> Is this a good video card for this monitor? I know it's not the worlds best, but it's pretty powerful I think. I actually have 2 of these cards, but I haven't crossfired them yet as I was going to use the second for another build, but if I have to I might put it in mine and just use my old 560-Ti for the other. I assume 2x 7950 would be enough to do 1440p but how high could I expect to overclock the *Monitor* with my gpus still keeping up? I know no one can say for sure, but a rough estimate would be great. Ideally I would like to shoot for 96Hz refresh rate, but I'm doubtful whether my one 7950 could push that alone.
> 
> 2. Qnix or X-Star?
> I know they are essentially the same and it seems most people go for the QNIX. Is there any reason to go for one over the other, like recent quality control or anything?
> 
> 3. Where to buy. I see 4 options.
> $309.90 - GreenSum do they get hit with customs charges now? I remember seeing someone say something about them or AW getting hit.
> $346.48 - Amazon (ECOMADE ARENA)
> $350.84 - ipsledmonitors
> $359.58 (5-15 day ship) or $369.58 for 3-5 day shipping from neofeel
> What is the best option for me? I live in the US. Is it worth it to pay $41 more from ipsledmonitors? I can't get a good read on the shipping/return situation from GreenSum. Some people saying they want you to pay but you can talk them out of it or have to do something to get them to? I wouldn't mind paying a little more to ensure return shipping is free and easy and/or that my money is staying in the US, but is that big of a difference (13%) worth it? Is there any difference in the quality of panels between the two vendors? The newegg and amazon look too risky to me.
> 
> 4. It seems like I will need to buy a new cable and probably mount I see the mounts, but everyone talking about the monoprice cable and I don't see a link for it?
> 
> 5. Is that it? Am I missing anything?
> 
> I'm really looking forward to upgrading from my 27" Hanns G 1980x1200 LCD monitor. It's a good number of years old now and even though there is no BLB or dead pixels, everything just feels kind of dull and its a big thick clunky monitor.
> 
> Thanks for any help guys, I know I must be the 10000th person to ask these questions


1. Unless your playing older games or turning the settings way down no way you'll be getting a constant 120 or even 96fps with a single 7950, I'd crossfire for sure.

2. I would go for a Qnix as the X-star has been discontinued and may delay your order trying to get 1 like what happened to me when I tried to order 1 they emailed me back a few days later and asked if i would take a Qnix instead.

3. 1st monitor I ordered from Green-Sum, got it really fast, no dead pixels, overclocked to 120hz but it had major backlight bleed. 2nd monitor I ordered from iplsmonitors, took 7 days but was because they didn't have any X-Stars left and also DHL shipping took forev, but the monitor had no dead pixels or backlight bleed and overclocks to 120hz so perfect. Just my experiences though with these 2 sellers and I'm sure it's random.

4. Used the cable that came with each monitor and both overclocked to 120hz with 0 issues so I would just stick with the cable it comes with.

Hope this helps


----------



## mboner1

Does anyone know what monitor these PLS panels were originally intended for?? I mean the IPS ones are supposedly for the Apple imac's yeah? Were these for the samsung S27B970D or whatever it is??


----------



## paulkon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Does anyone know what monitor these PLS panels were originally intended for?? I mean the IPS ones are supposedly for the Apple imac's yeah? Where these for the samsung S27B970D or whatever it is??


SAMSUNG S27A850D


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> SAMSUNG S27A850D


Where did you find that out? I can't see where it says that the 850D uses the same LTM270DL02 panel that the QNIX uses?

Found it. Turns out it IS used in the more expensive s27B970D top end samsung.. http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/samsung_s27b970d.htm

edit. Turns out both the models we listed use the same LTM270DL02 panel.

...and so does the asus pb278q which i wasn't particularly fond of. Weird.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eculley65*
> 
> Just a couple of days ;-)


It too long though!









I returned my other one and bought another. Going from 27 in back to my 6 year old 22 is saddening. The picture quality is terrible in comparison and it looks so small.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What 90% of games can hit 120fps+ @ 1440p on a single 7950?


What do you mean? Itll be easier to tell you what games CANT hit 120fps with a single 7950. Any game outside of Bioshock Infinite, Tomb Raider, Crysis, Splinter Cell, BF3, Hitman Absolution, Witcher 2, Farcray 3 wont hit 120fps at Ultra with AA/HBAO, but you can for sure tweak it so its High-Ultra without AA/HBAO and itll be 90fps+ easily, well except for Crysis. That and Farcry 3 runs like **** on everything.

The above (8) games I've tweaked and made to look very very good, and still have a high framerate to take advantage of these monitors.

Obviously a Titan is best, but 7950 is a not a bad match.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Can anyone explain the whole pixel clock thing? Right now I have it at 60Hz at the desktop and 96Hz when gaming (because of image retention), it does 118Hz fine though so I have some room.

My resolution info just looks like that at the minute, obviously just set to auto. What am I meant to be changing to bring the pixel clock down? Will it help with the image retention?


----------



## hutt132

I have a ColorMunki Display and it made my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Matte monitor look much better at 120Hz. The only negative thing about it is that the colors look ever so slightly washed out. I calibrated with the brightness at 22 clicks from the lowest setting, monitor tilted back, and at night with the lights off.

QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Matte; 22 click brightness
120Hz: http://www.mediafire.com/?1kdh8hztdk49te9
96Hz: http://www.mediafire.com/?ba914rm5z52l9wa
60Hz: http://www.mediafire.com/?7w3e2lpgr5zn4wx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> Here are my timing, no artifacts. I'm using this cable: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-24AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B003L11FIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377385659&sr=8-1&keywords=24awg+dvi-d


----------



## ds84

Can the QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPort be overclocked to 120hz?


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Can the QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPort be overclocked to 120hz?


No


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Can the QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPort be overclocked to 120hz?


Yes.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nazrule*
> 
> No


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yes.


Lol, yes or no? I know that the Basic model with DVI-D can be overclocked to 120hz, though i haven read up yet. But, can the DPort ver do it as well?


----------



## Nazrule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Lol, yes or no? I know that the Basic model with DVI-D can be overclocked to 120hz, though i haven read up yet. But, can the DPort ver do it as well?


I'm assuming he just looked at your post and assumed your asking if this model will hit 120hz which yes alot of them will but not the multi port version that has hdmi, a dport, vga. I don't have the multi port version but have been going this this thread for several months and several people have reported that the multi port version of this monitor does very little overclocking. Just google QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPort overclock and I'm sure you'll see what I'm talking about.


----------



## ds84

I have a crazy idea, need pro's opinion.

If i get the qnix qx2710 evolution II DVI-D only ver, and pair with a hdmi switcher, will it work? It goes something like this:

PC ---> DVI-D to HDMi cable ---> HDMI Switcher ---> HDMI to DVI-D cable ---> monitor

PS4 ---> HDMI cable ---> HDMi Switcher ---> HDMI to DVI-D cable ---> monitor

Reason is coz the basic model is able to OC up to 120hz. im not sure if the DVI-D plays a part or not, but i doubt HDMI will be able to support 120hz.

Plz give ur inputs. thanks.


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> To the owners here, how is the picture quality compared for example to other IPS panels not from Korea? Are they equal or worse?
> 
> I can imagine since you have to calibrate colours on your own if you OC to 120hz that they are not that optimal?
> How is the picture quality if you stay at 60hz compared to 120hz?
> 
> Furthermore, 1440p @120hz just cries for CF or SLI, a single card is just not sufficient, unless you play on low settings or like 30 fps gaming on max settings.
> 
> edit, another question: what is the benefit of 120hz if you cannot use it if you are on a single card?
> edit2, if someone wants 120hz, wouldnt it be just better to get the BenQ XL2420T?


See my reply on [H]


----------



## Nikola-Tesla

Anybody tried downsampling in games with that monitor? Is downsampled [email protected] doable?
Simple pcb and thick cable look promising.


----------



## bloodycliff

first tme posting. got the QNIX. one dead pixel, 0 BLB. Running a geek squat cable (but tried a different one and the problem stays the same)

the problem involves the over clocks. is can hit 120 fine, but when it boots at the oc, it gets really weird. the screen will be almost completely black, and when I use ctrl/shift/dlelete it only shows me half of the screen. most oc's work on the fly, but only 90 and below work on boot. on most things between 120 and 95, I get gray flashing lines going across my screen (mostly happens when im on a web browser at full screen

running 2 (non identical) 580gtx's
used the sli patch and cru.
paring this monitor with a 1920x1080 asus monitor
when the computer starts, I have it set the qnix to be my main display, however, the asus was the monitor and gpu that windows was primarily installed on. I was wondering if that might cause the problem also. what I mean to say, windows was installed on gpu 1 and the qnix is on gpu 2, so the bios still runs on the asus.

any help would be appreciated

also I am using lcd reduced in all my cru settings, didn't really make a differenct, but thought it would help


----------



## A Monell

Several months ago I purchased a Qnix QX2710LED monitor (matte) from IPSledmonitors. It appeared to have no dead pixels and very minimal backlight bleed. I ran the Nvidia driver patch and was able to overclock to 120Mhz immediately with no problems (using the suggested heavy-duty cable and a GTX 760 2gig card ).
I have been running it at 60 Mhz for the most part with an occasional rainy weekend at 96 MHZ for RC sims.

Three weeks ago at 96 I started getting horizontal black bands that progressed to a dark screen with bands of my desktop jittering around. Originally this took several hours to develop but showed up immediately at 120 Mhz. I could also force this with the white screen in the TTi screen test utility. It is now constant at 90Mhz.

This week at 60 MHZ my brightness has started flickering.

Is this a common failure mode for these monitors?
I did purchase the three year extended warranty from IPSledmonitors so I am wondering whether to contact them and start the replacement process.

I was also wondering how reliable the power supplies for these are and if my symptoms pointed to a bad one.
Thanks for any ideas, Alex


----------



## gockelmax

i think my QNIX QX2710 just died








Now I get flickering at 60Hz, but as soon as I go up with Hertz the flickering lessens.
I had the Qnix at 112Hz for aboout 4 months I think.
I tried another monitor PSU, another DVI-D cable, and another PC.
The monitor also flickers when im in BIOS, so it has nothing to do with the drivers.

Can anyone help me or did anyone already have a similar issue and managed to solve it?

@A Monell: Well that#s what I call a coincidence^^ almost same minute same flickering.
Im also getting horizontal darker lines


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gockelmax*
> 
> i think my QNIX QX2710 just died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I get flickering at 60Hz, but as soon as I go up with Hertz the flickering lessens.
> I had the Qnix at 112Hz for aboout 4 months I think.
> I tried another monitor PSU, another DVI-D cable, and another PC.
> The monitor also flickers when im in BIOS, so it has nothing to do with the drivers.
> 
> Can anyone help me or did anyone already have a similar issue and managed to solve it?
> 
> @A Monell: Well that#s what I call a coincidence^^ almost same minute same flickering.
> Im also getting horizontal darker lines


Well that was a bad hour for QNIX's lol. Wish i could help but i don't know' personally i'm not overclocking for the fear of what you guys are dealing with. Hope it's temporary and someone knows how to fix it with timings or something??


----------



## gockelmax

OK guys I dunno why but the flickering is gone.
I let the monitor cool down for about an hour or so and the flickering was still there but not as bad as before.
another hour of usage and the flickering is gone.


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gockelmax*
> 
> OK guys I dunno why but the flickering is gone.
> I let the monitor cool down for about an hour or so and the flickering was still there but not as bad as before.
> another hour of usage and the flickering is gone.


I had the flickering problem myself after running a pixel flashing video to fix a stuck pixel I have on my screen (1 hour long). After the video, screen flickering occurred for about 5-10 minutes, but after that it was completely gone.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> I had the flickering problem myself after running a pixel flashing video to fix a stuck pixel I have on my screen (1 hour long). After the video, screen flickering occurred for about 5-10 minutes, but after that it was completely gone.


What about the pixel, was that fixed or still there??


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> I have a crazy idea, need pro's opinion.
> 
> If i get the qnix qx2710 evolution II DVI-D only ver, and pair with a hdmi switcher, will it work? It goes something like this:
> 
> PC ---> DVI-D to HDMi cable ---> HDMI Switcher ---> HDMI to DVI-D cable ---> monitor
> 
> PS4 ---> HDMI cable ---> HDMi Switcher ---> HDMI to DVI-D cable ---> monitor
> 
> Reason is coz the basic model is able to OC up to 120hz. im not sure if the DVI-D plays a part or not, but i doubt HDMI will be able to support 120hz.
> 
> Plz give ur inputs. thanks.


HDMI to DVI-D (and vice-versa ofc) cables are single-link. This monitors needs dual-link DVI so HDMI is out of the question, not even for 60Hz.

Any device which does not output the native resolution of this monitor (2560x1440) will NOT work with it as it lacks an internal scaler. Therefore, up till now, this is strictly a PC-only monitor. No consoles work on the single-input Qnix.

Some other monitors might support resolutions such as 1280x720p and double them (2x2) without having a more complex scaler but this one does not.


----------



## drdrache

verification post...
x-star Overclocked to 96hz


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> What about the pixel, was that fixed or still there??


Sadly it is still there..


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> Sadly it is still there..


Bad luck, same deal with mine, but i only ran that utility for like 10- 15 mins. Ah well 1 stuck pixel out of 3,686400 isn't going to ruin my day


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Bad luck, same deal with mine, but i only ran that utility for like 10- 15 mins. Ah well 1 stuck pixel out of 3,686400 isn't going to ruin my day


Oh it's great to know I'm not the only one







Now I feel like it's not even there


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> HDMI to DVI-D (and vice-versa ofc) cables are single-link. This monitors needs dual-link DVI so HDMI is out of the question, not even for 60Hz.
> 
> Any device which does not output the native resolution of this monitor (2560x1440) will NOT work with it as it lacks an internal scaler. Therefore, up till now, this is strictly a PC-only monitor. No consoles work on the single-input Qnix.
> 
> Some other monitors might support resolutions such as 1280x720p and double them (2x2) without having a more complex scaler but this one does not.


So, in other words, if i get the DPort ver with the scalar, it will work with consoles using hdmi and with pc using displayport?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> So, in other words, if i get the DPort ver with the scalar, it will work with consoles using hdmi and with pc using displayport?


Yes this is correct, but you will not be able to overclock it and will be stuck with 60Hz.


----------



## dansi

do u guys suffer from image retention with your oc qnix?
for example i can see my facebook sidebar even after i closed the page. try it by putting something with light background like OCN forums over where your sidebar was....

u dont need facebook either, something like hwmonitor (with static text and white background) opened for awhile, and there is that image retention....


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Yea me too. I just run it an 60Hz on the desktop and 96Hz in games.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> I had the flickering problem myself after running a pixel flashing video to fix a stuck pixel I have on my screen (1 hour long). After the video, screen flickering occurred for about 5-10 minutes, but after that it was completely gone.


Flashing the entire screen R-G-B can cause the weak pixels to get stuck, although you're bound to run into that sooner or later. So you might end up with more stuck pixels (prematurely).

No need for videos. Sometimes you're not even certain they run as fast as possible (at the refresh rate) to nudge that stuck pixel to finally move. They might jitter and miss frames so that makes them less effective.

Use *UDPixel* and set it to flash only the single pixel itself or a bunch of pixels including the stuck pixel. I remember using the first method and gave it a few hours. It removed a stuck pixel that appeared on my (then ~2-2.5 -year-old) ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED. The stuck pixel appeared a few days later then silently disappeared forever. It's been a few months.

So yes unsticking pixels can work but no need to flash the whole screen. Just flash the stuck pixel itself.


----------



## bloodycliff

well no help here, but I solved it myself.

at first I thought it might be because I was using a program called ultramon (which is a dual screen display controller program) uninstalled it, no help.

so I went with my original hunch, qnix was plugged into gpu 2, monitor 1 was plugged into gpu 1. where as gpu 1 was the primary gpu for windows. I put the qnix on gpu1 and the other on gpu2 and some of the problems went away. put them both on gpu 2 and boom, works great now. oc'ed to 120 fine, started fine, but artifacts and studdering in game. set to 110 now and works the charm


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodycliff*
> 
> well no help here, but I solved it myself.
> 
> at first I thought it might be because I was using a program called ultramon (which is a dual screen display controller program) uninstalled it, no help.
> 
> so I went with my original hunch, qnix was plugged into gpu 2, monitor 1 was plugged into gpu 1. where as gpu 1 was the primary gpu for windows. I put the qnix on gpu1 and the other on gpu2 and some of the problems went away. put them both on gpu 2 and boom, works great now. oc'ed to 120 fine, started fine, but artifacts and studdering in game. set to 110 now and works the charm


Recommended to push your pixel clock down when you get close to 450MHz (110Hz+). That would lessen the overclocking side effects and allow you to run a higher refresh rate at the same pixel clock you are using now (I'm guessing 443MHz at 110Hz).

Just by tightening my timings according to Jerrold's post (I have an AMD GPU), I got 117Hz at 448MHz up from 110Hz at 443MHz. Gamma shift is the same and there are no uniformity issues (measured and verified).

If you have an Nvidia GPU search for Spartan F8's post "Front Porch".


----------



## Han Bao Quan

Hi all
After lurking around this forum for years I decided to join.
I just recently bought 3 X-starDP2710LED from dream-seller to replace my old set of 24'' 1080p. They all look great and work as expected. However I ran into this small problem.

When I installed Linux on my computer, after installing the NVidia driver (I have 2 GTX 780) one of the monitors would not show any picture, instead it kept cycling through all the colors (white, red, green, blue, gray). If I plug in just that one monitor to one of the DVI ports and install the drivers, everything is fine. As soon as I plug in the other 2 monitors (one to the other DVI ports and one to the Displayport to Dual link DVI), then the same thing happen again. I tried with my AMD 7970 as well as several different Linux distros, same thing. The strange thing is everything works fine in Windows 8.

Does anyone have any hindsight? Thank you very much.

Great forum by the way.


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Flashing the entire screen R-G-B can cause the weak pixels to get stuck, although you're bound to run into that sooner or later. So you might end up with more stuck pixels (prematurely).
> 
> No need for videos. Sometimes you're not even certain they run as fast as possible (at the refresh rate) to nudge that stuck pixel to finally move. They might jitter and miss frames so that makes them less effective.
> 
> Use *UDPixel* and set it to flash only the single pixel itself or a bunch of pixels including the stuck pixel. I remember using the first method and gave it a few hours. It removed a stuck pixel that appeared on my (then ~2-2.5 -year-old) ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED. The stuck pixel appeared a few days later then silently disappeared forever. It's been a few months.
> 
> So yes unsticking pixels can work but no need to flash the whole screen. Just flash the stuck pixel itself.


Thanks for the answer! I have heard of UDPixel but haven't tried it yet. I'll try it once I get back from my trip.

This actually sounds safer to me. Thanks again!


----------



## skilly

Does anyone with a GTX 580 or any 5xx series card have a problem idling down even at less than 404mhz pixel clock speed? Its supposed to idle down at anything with 404mhz or less.

Im wondering if my GPU is shot or something, because I could have sworn it used to work and idle down at the 404mhz speed.

It still idles down at 60hz though, but anything above it does not.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Han Bao Quan*
> 
> Hi all
> After lurking around this forum for years I decided to join.
> I just recently bought 3 X-starDP2710LED from dream-seller to replace my old set of 24'' 1080p. They all look great and work as expected. However I ran into this small problem.
> 
> When I installed Linux on my computer, after installing the NVidia driver (I have 2 GTX 780) one of the monitors would not show any picture, instead it kept cycling through all the colors (white, red, green, blue, gray). If I plug in just that one monitor to one of the DVI ports and install the drivers, everything is fine. As soon as I plug in the other 2 monitors (one to the other DVI ports and one to the Displayport to Dual link DVI), then the same thing happen again. I tried with my AMD 7970 as well as several different Linux distros, same thing. The strange thing is everything works fine in Windows 8.
> 
> Does anyone have any hindsight? Thank you very much.
> 
> Great forum by the way.


I've read a few days ago an article concerning Nvidia's and AMD's shananigans concerning monitors. Nvidia seems to not allow 3 (or 3+) monitors from running in multi-monitor mode on Linux as that would be offering a similar experience to the Windows counterpart, or so I've read. Might want to find out more about some driver limitation along these lines.

@VENAXIS: Tell us how it goes, whether it removes the stuck pixel or not.


----------



## Han Bao Quan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I've read a few days ago an article concerning Nvidia's and AMD's shananigans concerning monitors. Nvidia seems to not allow 3 (or 3+) monitors from running in multi-monitor mode on Linux as that would be offering a similar experience to the Windows counterpart, or so I've read. Might want to find out more about some driver limitation along these lines.
> 
> @VENAXIS: Tell us how it goes, whether it removes the stuck pixel or not.


Hi yasamoka, thanks for the reply.
I was running 3 monitors with linux on my old Viewsonic 24'' just fine. This only happens with this new X-Star. When I unplug the troubled one and tried a different 24'' then everything works. So I have no idea why that one monitor would not work in Linux, in Windows it runs beautifully.


----------



## crun

damn, recently i have ordered 7950 to update my rig.

i was considering a korean monitor one year ago, but my HD5850 was incompatible. now i really want it again...

what i'm scared of is lack of warranty (well, shipment to korea from poland must cost fortune. its 1 year only too) and potential issues with it (not overclockable to ~90-120hz or working badly in this speed, large bleeds, GPU not fast enough for 1440p)

how many buyers have reported their korean-monitor-deaths? i saw at least one on neogaf (after few months of use)


----------



## polomintus

After counting up the duty tax and adding more warranty using square offered by eBay for an additional 2 years warranty it comes in at around £330.00....

So while these screens look super cheap they are not that cheap considering you only get 1 year limited warranty and might be troublesome returning the item to south korea. Now with this in mind my question is are these better than say 'Dell Ultrasharp U2713HM" as these on eBay refrub are only £349.99 and £500 new. So how do these compare to Dell's Ultrasharp range?

Putting the 60hz only aside, I plan to use for Design work so motion video/games isn't a big issue on the herts side of things through it may be good on my eyes for hours on end coding and editing.


----------



## Hl86

I have very little frame skipping at 120hz. Is that something i should be concerned at and fix?

Like a frameskip every time it has passed through from top to bottom.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crun*
> 
> damn, recently i have ordered 7950 to update my rig.
> 
> i was considering a korean monitor one year ago, but my HD5850 was incompatible. now i really want it again...
> 
> what i'm scared of is lack of warranty (well, shipment to korea from poland must cost fortune. its 1 year only too) and potential issues with it (not overclockable to ~90-120hz or working badly in this speed, large bleeds, GPU not fast enough for 1440p)
> 
> how many buyers have reported their korean-monitor-deaths? i saw at least one on neogaf (after few months of use)


This thread might give you a bit of a insight into the failure rate..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1430315/how-are-the-korean-monitors-holding-up


----------



## crun

nice, thank you!

can't....resist....

is this the best offer? I want it to be shipped to Poland. Any problems with returning the monitor (in case I feel the BLB is too excessive etc.) to the accesoriesswhole? Can they ship it as a gift?

Anybody has VESA mounted it? Is it solid? I have my monitors attached to the wall.

Also, AC uses a type F power plug. My country (Poland) uses type E sockets... do I need a changover plug or I'm good to go?

Oh and one more question. How well does 1080p games and movies look on this monitor? From what I've read it is ok. It is hard to believe for me, because 720p games on a 1080p monitor (E2370v-BF) look absolutely horrible.
OC'ed 7950 should be enough for 1440p/no AA for now and nearest future though.


----------



## skilly

Does anyone have an issue where their refresh rates would just vanish and only 60hz is avail? I'll be in 120, 110 or 96hz, doesnt matter, but if i leave the screen sitting for a few minutes and come back the refresh rate is 60hz and the rest are not available until restart and eventually it will go back to 60hz.

The only thing I have at boot is EVGA precision, geforce experience is not installed.. Its been fine for a month or 2, it just started happening a few days ago. Tried the old drivers, old patcher, old CRU , nothing seems to keep my custom values working. The weird thing is it switches when Im not doing anything.. I dont have screen saver or anything on.

Any advise? Thank you!

EDIT:
I'm assuming this error is because of the patch but does anyone else get this..I looked in my windows logs in system and found this:

The description for Event ID 14 from source nvlddmkm cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.

If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event.

The following information was included with the event:

\Device\Video1
CMDre 00000000 00000804 00862a20 00000004 00000084


----------



## Rhuarc86

So i just picked up a qnix. I have trifire 7950's. Has anyone been able to do say 96hz overclock with any stability? I realize two bridges are required for 120, just seeing if i can do any sort of overclock at all.


----------



## dante`afk

Got my Qnix today and it`s awesome! Looks so good, and the colours wow! No dead pixels, very slight blb on the lower left corner, but not noticeable if you dont look on it like crazy.

Though I think I got a problem. I can go 120hz, 133hz, 140hz, and I see this number also capped in games with vsync, so it seems to work.. If I run the test on firefox it shows 120hz but with framestutter (2). If i run it on IE or chrome it stays as 60fps?

Also, what pixelclock is healthy? I am currently at 483 but I`ve read somewhere that it should not be above 460?

I installed the catleap drivers and im using the Nvidia CP.

http://abload.de/image.php?img=120i7prl.png http://abload.de/image.php?img=606fpav.png

edit - in some games i see 120fps with vsync on, in other games i see only 60fps in vsync on. and then in other games vsync off does 120fps cap and fsync on 60fps cap. why is this?

edit2, how do you apply settings with CRU? this is how it looks like but there is nothing like save or apply?

http://abload.de/image.php?img=cruoasg3.jpg


----------



## timaishu

Got my monitor from overclock.net and am disappointed. I bought the pixel perfect version and have a dead pixel smack dab in the middle of the screen and another to the lower right. UGH. So much for pixel perfect.


----------



## timaishu

Okay, now I am really mad, I just counted 7, yes SEVEN jacked up pixels. This is totally unacceptable.

Two really dark ones, and the rest are harder to see and show up at different angles and are colored. They are not dust on the screen as I wiped over these spots several times.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Okay, now I am really mad, I just counted 7, yes SEVEN jacked up pixels. This is totally unacceptable.
> 
> Two really dark ones, and the rest are harder to see and show up at different angles and are colored. They are not dust on the screen as I wiped over these spots several times.


Certain sellers have different amounts of pixels that they deem acceptable, in certain regions of the screen. Usually its around 5, check with your seller, you might be entitled to an exchange.

For the pixel perfect version, 7 is usually unacceptable. You said you got yours from overclock.net? _*This*_ website? Or did you mean overclockmonitor.com?

Assuming you live in the US, and it wasn't shipped directly from Korea through an eBay seller, you might actually be able to get the seller to pay for the return shipping, since it wouldn't be nearly as expensive. Try contacting them and seeing what they say.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Certain sellers have different amounts of pixels that they deem acceptable, in certain regions of the screen. Usually its around 5, check with your seller, you might be entitled to an exchange. Although you'd probably have to pay for return shipping
> 
> Many sellers also offer partial refunds for faulty products, so you might be able to get some of your money back if you can live with those 7 pixels :X
> 
> EDIT: For the pixel perfect version, 7 is definitely unacceptable. You said you got yours from overclock.net....? AKA this website? Or did you mean overclockmonitor.com?


The website. Per their emails with me, they say that dark and stuck don't count as dead, but color pixels do and zero are allowed for a PP panel. Well, mine has 2-3 color pixels and the rest are dark. I am going to email them and see what they say.

EDIT: So two of them was actually stuck on dirt as I was able to scrape whatever was off off and it went away. I still have 1 color pixel and 3 dark ones though.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Does anyone have an issue where their refresh rates would just vanish and only 60hz is avail? I'll be in 120, 110 or 96hz, doesnt matter, but if i leave the screen sitting for a few minutes and come back the refresh rate is 60hz and the rest are not available until restart and eventually it will go back to 60hz.
> 
> The only thing I have at boot is EVGA precision, geforce experience is not installed.. Its been fine for a month or 2, it just started happening a few days ago. Tried the old drivers, old patcher, old CRU , nothing seems to keep my custom values working. The weird thing is it switches when Im not doing anything.. I dont have screen saver or anything on.
> 
> Any advise? Thank you!
> 
> EDIT:
> I'm assuming this error is because of the patch but does anyone else get this..I looked in my windows logs in system and found this:
> 
> The description for Event ID 14 from source nvlddmkm cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.
> 
> If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event.
> 
> The following information was included with the event:
> 
> \Device\Video1
> CMDre 00000000 00000804 00862a20 00000004 00000084


This is sort of a shot in the dark.

I was using ToastyX's patcher and CRU and also playing around with the PrecisionX method. When I used PrecisionX to set the monitor's refresh rate back to "default," it screwed up my CRU settings. I stopped using PrecisionX because of this and now only use the patcher + CRU.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> The website. Per their emails with me, they say that dark and stuck don't count as dead, but color pixels do and zero are allowed for a PP panel. Well, mine has 2-3 color pixels and the rest are dark. I am going to email them and see what they say.
> 
> EDIT: So two of them was actually stuck on dirt as I was able to scrape whatever was off off and it went away. I still have 1 color pixel and 3 dark ones though.


Hm well if they allow 0 colored pixels, and you still have 1 or more, that's still unacceptable by their standards and they should help you out. Plus, theyre located in the US so return shipping isn't out of the question









I'm sure they'll be able to work something out that you'll be happy with. Returning to a korean eBay seller on the other hand is next to impossible haha


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Hm well if they allow 0 colored pixels, and you still have 1 or more, that's still unacceptable by their standards and they should help you out. Plus, theyre located in the US so return shipping isn't out of the question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure they'll be able to work something out that you'll be happy with. Returning to a korean eBay seller on the other hand is next to impossible haha


We will see. I now notice in retrospect they seemed to use color in place of bright or vice versa so now I am not sure exactly what was meant by color. On a blackbackground I see nothing, but on white, I have a couple black dots and one that looks redish/pink.


----------



## Rhuarc86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhuarc86*
> 
> So i just picked up a qnix. I have trifire 7950's. Has anyone been able to do say 96hz overclock with any stability? I realize two bridges are required for 120, just seeing if i can do any sort of overclock at all.


So, I answered my own question. It may not be 120hz, but 96hz feels stable and looks better than 60 using just one crossfire bridge. Just as an FYI.


----------



## pk7677

Hi guys, just got my Qnix today and I'm pretty excited, overclocked to 120hz after 15 mins of playing, just wondering if there is any downside of using the overclock setting 24/7. Will it shorten my monitor life span by a lot? Or I shouldn't worry about it too much?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pk7677*
> 
> Hi guys, just got my Qnix today and I'm pretty excited, overclocked to 120hz after 15 mins of playing, just wondering if there is any downside of using the overclock setting 24/7. Will it shorten my monitor life span by a lot? Or I shouldn't worry about it too much?


No one has really reported a dead monitor after months or even a year + of overclocking it. You should try to keep your pixel clock rate as close to 450 as possible since that is the default spec of the board.


----------



## pk7677

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> No one has really reported a dead monitor after months or even a year + of overclocking it. You should try to keep your pixel clock rate as close to 450 as possible since that is the default spec of the board.


Is 459.86 fine or am I on little bit of high side?


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> This is sort of a shot in the dark.
> 
> I was using ToastyX's patcher and CRU and also playing around with the PrecisionX method. When I used PrecisionX to set the monitor's refresh rate back to "default," it screwed up my CRU settings. I stopped using PrecisionX because of this and now only use the patcher + CRU.


I have precision installed but never messed with the refresh rates in the program, just CRU. Im in the middle of reformatting and trying W7 at this point.

Doesn't idle down unless its 60hz and now it changes to 60hz at random.. Does anybody think I have damage to the monitor or gpu?

Ive tried everything and cannot figure it out. Maybe Ill have better luck with W7 but i highly doubt it. Im just worried either the monitor or the gpu is damaged... yikes.


----------



## Coolio831

So I just finished installing all my programs/games from an upgrade to windows 8, I'm trying to install the Yamakasi Catleap drivers so that games can recognize 96Hz, I have disabled UAC, and i'm getting errors cause the third party INF does not contain digital signature information. It's getting kinda late, sure would like to get this fixed before i get to bed.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pk7677*
> 
> Is 459.86 fine or am I on little bit of high side?


That's similar to what Spartan had and he's been using it for 8months+. It's as low as you can go for 120Hz 1440p.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> No one has really reported a dead monitor after months or even a year + of overclocking it. You should try to keep your pixel clock rate as close to 450 as possible since that is the default spec of the board.


Well some people were having issues just the other day (page 806). Whether or not as a direct result from overclocking i don't know, but to me it sounds likely.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gockelmax*
> 
> i think my QNIX QX2710 just died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I get flickering at 60Hz, but as soon as I go up with Hertz the flickering lessens.
> I had the Qnix at 112Hz for aboout 4 months I think.
> I tried another monitor PSU, another DVI-D cable, and another PC.
> The monitor also flickers when im in BIOS, so it has nothing to do with the drivers.
> 
> Can anyone help me or did anyone already have a similar issue and managed to solve it?
> 
> @A Monell: Well that#s what I call a coincidence^^ almost same minute same flickering.
> Im also getting horizontal darker lines


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A Monell*
> 
> Several months ago I purchased a Qnix QX2710LED monitor (matte) from IPSledmonitors. It appeared to have no dead pixels and very minimal backlight bleed. I ran the Nvidia driver patch and was able to overclock to 120Mhz immediately with no problems (using the suggested heavy-duty cable and a GTX 760 2gig card ).
> I have been running it at 60 Mhz for the most part with an occasional rainy weekend at 96 MHZ for RC sims.
> 
> Three weeks ago at 96 I started getting horizontal black bands that progressed to a dark screen with bands of my desktop jittering around. Originally this took several hours to develop but showed up immediately at 120 Mhz. I could also force this with the white screen in the TTi screen test utility. It is now constant at 90Mhz.
> 
> This week at 60 MHZ my brightness has started flickering.
> 
> Is this a common failure mode for these monitors?
> I did purchase the three year extended warranty from IPSledmonitors so I am wondering whether to contact them and start the replacement process.
> 
> I was also wondering how reliable the power supplies for these are and if my symptoms pointed to a bad one.
> Thanks for any ideas, Alex


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> which monitor did u get and which site? and how did shipping work out ?
> 
> i am in mumbai too and want a Monitor for regular work with maximum screen space and later to also PS3 game on it.


Decided to answer here so other fellow citizens can be helped as well









People were going for Qnix and X-star was under priced and very few people were buying it. Since the first few shipments are always in great condition so as to increase the sale of the product, I went with x-star.

The shipping and customs came out to be 25% of the product price. Luckily the seller mentioned a lower price of 80$ only.

I think for PS3 you need to buy the one with multi-port, I have no experience with those models.

Also, checkout my review from my signature to get all the other details.
Very very light unnoticeable BLB, which should go once I try the tape fix but I would rather just leave it as its unnoticeable and it overclocks to 144 Hz stable


----------



## Spartan F8

Well i am back from Florida in which i very interestingly enough met a person who owned a Qnix(not giving any names). Anyways i just got done reading about 40 pages of posts and i did not see really anything new. I did humorously see someone ask the difference between a Qnix and an xstar again(i think that makes 44 times if you don't count the poll as extra).

I can report that my Monitor is still running strong at 120hz 24/7 @ 449Mhz(dont ask for my timings just find my post). I have also upgraded to two 770s SLI from my old 570s SLI setup(which my wife about killed me for LOL). The 770s did seem to do a bit better when benchmarking the monitor but i was still not able to get to 154hz completely stable. It just seemed to be a bit more stable but still a no go. I also found if you want some just crazy smoothness(without the Soap Opera effect) in movies you can change the "frames in advance" and GPU/CPU queue size in madvr(renderer for MPC or POT player) with smooth motion on. This increases the processed frames before they are displayed on the screen thus increasing clarity the higher the refresh is. It does look a bit weird when a video has slow motion in it. Warning though, after using this watching videos without it makes everything seem like a slide show.

I also read someone asking about [email protected] It is definitely possible with a display port version 1.2(although we haven't seen any come with this natively yet). It also possible with very strict timings and the PCB this monitor has to get [email protected](the resulting pixel clock would be around 539Mhz which is definitely doable with considering some of the people getting over 120hz here on stock timings). The problem is there is nothing native or directly overclockable yet. So the only way to get [email protected] would have to be built(the origin panel being the skyworth or the seike panel which are both capable of higher refresh at lower resolutions). I may in the future build a [email protected] monitor build but i have other projects currently. I will likely use the seike and the PCB from our Qnix(after some interesting programing).

I also saw many questions about the pixel clock data rate. Kokin has been keeping up quite a bit but i would like to point out that the MAX frequency for our monitor's electronics is 450Mhz so anything close to that would be considered OK. So if you hit the max exact refresh i have seen frequently of 459 your fine. This would be a very slight overclock from the 450Mhz ceiling. Honestly i have ran mine as high as 612Mhz and with some coaxing was still able to get a picture(with side effects).

Lastly, any GPU older than the 600 series for nvidia is likely not going to clock down with the pixel clock over 300Mhz(400Mhz for SLI). This has been gone over a few times and can say from owning a 500 series card and a 700 series card that it is true. If you are going to run 120hz with a 500 series or lower card just expect to use a bit more electricity and possible shorten your GPU's lifetime(maybe go from 20 years to 15 years so nothing to worry about and just about the same as a CPU overclock with disabling scale down features).

Anyway i am out night everyone


----------



## Clexzor

Good info Spartan!

So quick question for a noob here the point of lowering the pixel clock from stock Is to lower the frequency close to 450hz? so the monitor isn't being pushed to hard right?


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> Got my Qnix today and it`s awesome! Looks so good, and the colours wow! No dead pixels, very slight blb on the lower left corner, but not noticeable if you dont look on it like crazy.
> 
> Though I think I got a problem. I can go 120hz, 133hz, 140hz, and I see this number also capped in games with vsync, so it seems to work.. If I run the test on firefox it shows 120hz but with framestutter (2). If i run it on IE or chrome it stays as 60fps?
> 
> Also, what pixelclock is healthy? I am currently at 483 but I`ve read somewhere that it should not be above 460?
> 
> I installed the catleap drivers and im using the Nvidia CP.
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=120i7prl.png http://abload.de/image.php?img=606fpav.png
> 
> edit - in some games i see 120fps with vsync on, in other games i see only 60fps in vsync on. and then in other games vsync off does 120fps cap and fsync on 60fps cap. why is this?
> 
> edit2, how do you apply settings with CRU? this is how it looks like but there is nothing like save or apply?
> 
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=cruoasg3.jpg


anyone?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I can report that my Monitor is still running strong at 120hz 24/7 @ 449Mhz(dont ask for my timings just find my post).


ya, good lluck on 29 pages of posts :d


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> anyone?
> ya, good lluck on 29 pages of posts :d


can't open your pics for some reason.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Well i am back from Florida in which i very interestingly enough met a person who owned a Qnix(not giving any names). Anyways i just got done reading about 40 pages of posts and i did not see really anything new. I did humorously see someone ask the difference between a Qnix and an xstar again(i think that makes 44 times if you don't count the poll as extra).
> 
> I can report that my Monitor is still running strong at 120hz 24/7 @ 449Mhz(dont ask for my timings just find my post)


I don't really have time to search through all the pages looking for your post. I doubt anyone does either. Why don't you post it again and maybe the OP will add it to the info on overclocking.

Also I'm really at a loss as to why you try to make it sound like the guy from florida who owns a qnix is in the witness protection program. I'm sure no one here really gives a crap if some random dude in florida owns a qnix.


----------



## dante`afk

okay i think i figured most of it by my own now.

is this frame skipping?


http://imgur.com/1TQQkqb

 even at 70hz... what does that mean? screen is bad for OC?

i guess it is not recommended to keep the screen OC`d if frames are skipped?


----------



## Duffsta82

My monitor from overclockmonitors.com should arrive today it was stuck in customs for 4 days, Only took 2 days from South Korea to New Zealand which was pretty amazing but stuck in customs for 4 days due to Customs/DHL messing around wasn't so much fun i had to keep on there back about it.. I am hoping mine doesn't turn out with dead pixels like timaishu one did cos i ordered pixel perfect as he did will let you guys know later today.
This is my 2nd monitor had to send back the first to Dream-Seller due to panel damage so scared ****less about reading Timaishu post today.. Fingers crossed..


----------



## shaolin95

Yeah my experience with them was great but just heard of another user which has like 4 dead pixels so that sucks. Hope yours is good.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> can't open your pics for some reason.
> I don't really have time to search through all the pages looking for your post. I doubt anyone does either. Why don't you post it again and maybe the OP will add it to the info on overclocking.
> .


Cause its easier for you to search than for him to post it every 10 pages. The first post about it is on page 393.


----------



## biggyk

So im at 120hz and a clock of 483mhz but I have no visual problems what so ever....should I just leave it? At the moment im running a single gtx 460


----------



## Duffsta82

Hey who was the other user?







do you know if he brought the perfect pixel version? when did you receive yours? It seems most people are happy with them so far did this other person just get theres this week also ?







dam nervous now will have to wait till they open today..


----------



## shaolin95

Yeah he just received it. I bought mine on September 16th.
And yes, he ordered PP as well.
I will ask if I can mention his name.

I was recommending those guys but if they are going to start sending crap out then I will not do so any longer.


----------



## Duffsta82

Yeah i was hoping i could do the same with there company name will see and let you know how the unboxing goes today, Can you ask him if he got the OC matte version? i wonder what date he brought his on hmmm


----------



## Duffsta82

I also seen you posted on his youtube channel with his OC video 3 weeks back... Pretty guttered if turns out i have heaps of dead pixels.. Has he contacted the seller? they are meant to be pixel perfect no dead ones only dark dead pixels i think...


----------



## junkrok

i have no idea why people are buying from that site. it says on the front, "top rated ebay seller". So you guys are basically buying from one of the ebay sellers with no buyer protection/ claim process.

Also, how many more of you need to fall victim of the perfect pixel scam; it doesn't work. Yeah I get it, one of you got a zero dead pixel monitor, as did many others who didn't pay the 'perfect pixel fee'.


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> So I just finished installing all my programs/games from an upgrade to windows 8, I'm trying to install the Yamakasi Catleap drivers so that games can recognize 96Hz, I have disabled UAC, and i'm getting errors cause the third party INF does not contain digital signature information. It's getting kinda late, sure would like to get this fixed before i get to bed.


*Fixed!*: Had to disable driver signature in W8.


----------



## Duffsta82

Yeah I am starting to believe its all luck of the draw either way will wait and see when it arrives today, yes eBay is safer but you still have PayPal and a thing called a charge back if you are ripped off.


----------



## shaolin95

His name is timaishu if you want to contact him btw.


----------



## biggyk

I got mine last week from them and mine is PP, very minimal back light bleed dont even notice it. Showed up in 3 days.


----------



## Duffsta82

Shaolin95, he's the guy I was talking about as well seems he is the only one to report bad pixels so far then?? If its just the one case of it happening and everyone else so far that I've heard of has been happy with them that's not so bad, guess I'll know soon hopefully timaishu can work it out with them they seem legit on emails I've recieved ..


----------



## Duffsta82

Biggyk, thanks that's good to know will do a review today


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duffsta82*
> 
> Shaolin95, he's the guy I was talking about as well seems he is the only one to report bad pixels so far then?? If its just the one case of it happening and everyone else so far that I've heard of has been happy with them that's not so bad, guess I'll know soon hopefully timaishu can work it out with them they seem legit on emails I've recieved ..


Yeah, I sent my contact their an email too since I have been recommending them to see wth happened with that monitor.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Okay, now I am really mad, I just counted 7, yes SEVEN jacked up pixels. This is totally unacceptable.
> 
> Two really dark ones, and the rest are harder to see and show up at different angles and are colored. They are not dust on the screen as I wiped over these spots several times.


You have the WORST luck....does it overclock at all?







Have you tried using a pixel flipper/massage the area to "wake" them up.


----------



## Ryder92

Hey I am not sure if this has been posted already in this thread or perhaps another, but can we start a collection of 2560x1440p wallpapers to download?


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryder92*
> 
> Hey I am not sure if this has been posted already in this thread or perhaps another, but can we start a collection of 2560x1440p wallpapers to download?


http://wallpaperswide.com/

Filter by resolution...


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> You have the WORST luck....does it overclock at all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried using a pixel flipper/massage the area to "wake" them up.


Yeah, it can do 96hz. I tried 120 and got some horizontal line flickering, that was without playing with the settings though and just using reduced.

I did try UDPixel for about 20 minutes but stopped because it was distracting while trying to do homework. Maybe I will try running it all night tonight to see what happens.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't really have time to search through all the pages looking for your post. I doubt anyone does either. Why don't you post it again and maybe the OP will add it to the info on overclocking.
> 
> Also I'm really at a loss as to why you try to make it sound like the guy from florida who owns a qnix is in the witness protection program. I'm sure no one here really gives a crap if some random dude in florida owns a qnix.


Firstly, Find my post. I honestly don't plan on reposting it primarily because lazy people are a dime a dozen. Plenty of people have found the post and given me rep on it and the length of the thread has not slowed this down. The OP has not added the post and part of the reason is in the post. All monitors are different. Bottom line is if you don't "have the time" to read and do it right then don't do it. That is an excuse plan and simple. Plus it is a comment that i have seen about 6 times. Although that is not as frequent as asking the difference in brands it is on the same level. You are asking for reposts(which someone actually did themselves about 15 pages back) and i do not with any level of criticism(maybe a PM but not to you due to this post) plan on reposting it.

Secondly, The only reason i posted i met a fellow Qnix owner was that it was interesting. It may have been a worthless comment but it is even more worthless posting a backlash remark about it. I went about 700 miles away and found another owner out of the blue. Not useful but still neat. I really don't know where you got the witness protect program from.

lastly, My comment for the most part had useful, information and overall helpful information that i have already gotten rep for and yours was utterly worthless and a bit insulting. Not only to me but the other commenter you for some reason replied to(clarifying nothing since he likely has no idea it was a picture post). Maybe you should consider posting comments that actually help this thread be useful and is a bit more positive. Anyone who has kept up with the thread could go back several pages and start slamming people and no one gives a crap about that for sure. They do care about "new" information which i put in all my comments to a degree(i will not however bloat the thread with even more reposts).

Hopefully this comments helps you help others like i have








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> Good info Spartan!
> 
> So quick question for a noob here the point of lowering the pixel clock from stock Is to lower the frequency close to 450hz? so the monitor isn't being pushed to hard right?


Yes the MAX supported data rate of the Qnix is 450Mhz so everything over that is considered an overclock. This does allow with tweaking for people to run 96hz with technically no overclock on the hardware itself. That is why the success rate for 96 is quite a bit higher than 120hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> anyone?


Yes that is frame skipping.
1. Make sure you are using a compatible browser for this test
2. Try with the browser NOT in full screen
3. Make sure you have any secondary monitor disabled when running the test(windows key + P works great)
4. Make sure you have no text resizing plugins on(they alias and could have refresh limits)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Cause its easier for you to search than for him to post it every 10 pages. The first post about it is on page 393.

























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biggyk*
> 
> So im at 120hz and a clock of 483mhz but I have no visual problems what so ever....should I just leave it? At the moment im running a single gtx 460


Lower the pixel clock will likely help the longevity of the monitor(just from a knowledge of how the electronics work there is no evidence yet). Also you might try putting a solid white background on the screen and seeing if there is any uniformity issues. Optimizing the pixel lock will help this as well.


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> okay i think i figured most of it by my own now.
> 
> is this frame skipping?
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/1TQQkqb
> 
> even at 70hz... what does that mean? screen is bad for OC?
> 
> i guess it is not recommended to keep the screen OC`d if frames are skipped?


anyone?


----------



## Spartan F8

Delete


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> anyone?


From what ive read and seen id say it skipping it should be continuous but someone correct me if wrong you should also feel it skipping in games I dnt do the test but I can get 124hz and get no skipping I guss


----------



## Hl86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> anyone?


How does it look at 60hz ?


----------



## Hl86

If i overclocked it to 120hz in nvidia controlpanel and sat it to display highest refreshrate in games. It should overwrite the games settings right?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hl86*
> 
> If i overclocked it to 120hz in nvidia controlpanel and sat it to display highest refreshrate in games. It should overwrite the games settings right?


Yes on older games that don't have a refresh rate option. I have seen newer games ignore the option since they have there own refresh option.


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hl86*
> 
> How does it look at 60hz ?


no skipping at 60 but everything above. I dont feel anything being wrong at 120hz when playing games or watching videos though.

so the main question is probably, what does frameskipping mean in the end, is this bad for the screen?


----------



## gibsont01

Hi, Just got two Qnix QX2710 monitors, and they are great! Just had a question regarding the 120hz setup. I have both monitors connected via dvi-d cables to a single Titan card. I ran the CRU tool and set the refresh rate to 120, but it looks like only my main monitor has 120 hz associated with it. Any ideas on why this is?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> no skipping at 60 but everything above. I dont feel anything being wrong at 120hz when playing games or watching videos though.
> 
> so the main question is probably, what does frameskipping mean in the end, is this bad for the screen?


I would try testing again with powerstrip to make sure it is just not the browser test braking somehow. Also frameskipping basically means you are not running at that refresh your monitor could still be running at 60hz and is skipping frames to make the difference. This is something that the Qnix has not done or even been reported to do as of yet. The monitor will overclock till it fails or goes into test mode. If yours frame skips than you either got a monitor with a different PCB or the test you are using is giving false results(which i find more likely). You can also try getting the "refreshrate mutitool" it is basically the same as the UFO test but it is a stand alone app(so no possibilities of the browser not refresh syncing properly). The multitool would be a more reliable test(the website is just easier for people)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsont01*
> 
> Hi, Just got two Qnix QX2710 monitors, and they are great! Just had a question regarding the 120hz setup. I have both monitors connected via dvi-d cables to a single Titan card. I ran the CRU tool and set the refresh rate to 120, but it looks like only my main monitor has 120 hz associated with it. Any ideas on why this is?


This question would be better in the CRU thread. I can say that you might want to make sure that refresh is listed for both monitors and the monitors your editing have a * by them indicating there active. You also might want to make sure that the pixel patch has been set right(has happens to me during driver updates)


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yes that is frame skipping.
> 1. Make sure you are using a compatible browser for this test
> 2. Try with the browser NOT in full screen
> 3. Make sure you have any secondary monitor disabled when running the test(windows key + P works great)
> 4. Make sure you have no text resizing plugins on(they alias and could have refresh limits)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lower the pixel clock will likely help the longevity of the monitor(just from a knowledge of how the electronics work there is no evidence yet). Also you might try putting a solid white background on the screen and seeing if there is any uniformity issues. Optimizing the pixel lock will help this as well.


thanks man you rock, it seems it was the second screen. no stuttering at 120hz on one screen.

im currently at 459 pixelcock with the default shipped DVI-D cable. would you recommend to get the monoprice cable in order to go down to 450?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> thanks man you rock, it seems it was the second screen. no stuttering at 120hz on one screen.
> 
> im currently at 459 pixelcock with the default shipped DVI-D cable. would you recommend to get the monoprice cable in order to go down to 450?


I was having this issue as well, if the test frameskips because of a secondary monitor, does that also mean there will be frameskipping in games if the second monitor is still in use?

As for the Monoprice cable, there have been mixed results. Some people (like Spartan) were able to reduce their pixel clock using it, but others actually saw better results using the stock included cable. I believe cable length is what maxes a difference more than AWG.

If you're willing to spend the money, go for it, but it is definitely not a guaranteed reduction in pixel clock. Running at 459 shouldn't really be harmful in any way, as its only a slight overclock


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> thanks man you rock, it seems it was the second screen. no stuttering at 120hz on one screen.
> 
> im currently at 459 pixelcock with the default shipped DVI-D cable. would you recommend to get the monoprice cable in order to go down to 450?


My results, I've tried a bunch of cables.. Hope this helps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> I just wanted to chime in and give an update on my x-star. I've been trying a lot of different cable all with different results. Basically every time I get a new cable and OC to 120hz I notice a little line here or some static there. I think I've finally found a cable that works for me 100%. The only cable I cannot try are the 3ft ones, so its 6ft only for me. I've also tested both DVI ports with all cables.
> 
> 1. Stock cable, 28awg, , OC to 120hz standard I get horizontal lines everywhere on the start screen. Tried front porch method and noticed a few lines playing games. 110hz is perfect.
> 
> 2. Monoprice 24awg 6ft. . Basically the same as the stock, maybe even worse. 110hz is perfect.
> 
> 3. Bluejeanscable.. 24awg 6ft. Worked fine for about a week and noticed some static when opening an app. It must have always been there but it took a bit to notice. 110hz is perfect.
> 
> 4. Cable Matters 28awg 6ft. OC'd at 120hz on standard and noticed just a little static on top right, all other cable would be unusable on standard. Did the front porch method and tested all of the other issues I had with other cables and so far its been perfect 100% . I may notice something in the future but its been a few days now and I have seen no distortion whatsoever.
> 
> So for you guys asking for cable recommendation I've had the best luck with this one:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Ferrites-Copper/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380034039&sr=8-1&keywords=dvi-d+cable+matters
> 
> Hope this helps someone. Your mileage may vary..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> I was having this issue as well, if the test frameskips because of a secondary monitor, does that also mean there will be frameskipping in games if the second monitor is still in use?
> 
> As for the Monoprice cable, there have been mixed results. Some people (like Spartan) were able to reduce their pixel clock using it, but others actually saw better results using the stock included cable. I believe cable length is what maxes a difference more than AWG.
> 
> If you're willing to spend the money, go for it, but it is definitely not a guaranteed reduction in pixel clock. Running at 459 shouldn't really be harmful in any way, as its only a slight overclock


I have found no frame skipping in games. Games in full screen take over the screen and generally this seperates it from the secondary screens field of view. This is why in a full screen game if you click on your secondary monitor it will minimize or window the game. However i do recommend turning the secondary display off when full screen gaming to better make use of VRAM especially since you are trying to push [email protected] Less unused load on the GPU means more power for the game thus higher FPS.

And the cables i got from monoprice were very hit or miss. I ended up finding an old cable in a box at work that got me slightly better than the best monoprice cable. After testing dozens of cables the only conclusion i could draw was keep your cable under 10ft since the length does take a toll on data degradation. The size actually showed that over 6ft required a 24AWG cable and under 6ft 24AWG did just as good. I am currently using a nameless white DVI-D cable that is 28AWG and just under 3ft long.

I would say if you have friends or can get a hold of cables cheap(monoprice may be the best place but there are others out there) to test with than sure but i would go spending a fortune on cables and definitely benchmark the pixel clock first.


----------



## dante`afk

thanks for the cable answers.

I got another one for games, I am currently testing which games I have support 120hz, should every game support it? also there is some odd behaviour.

sometimes I have to disable/re-enable vsync ingame in order to see the 120 cap. sometimes i have to go fullscreen, i assume 120 windowed does not work?

wow menu 120 ok - wow ingame 120 ok if going to fullscreen, no 120 if windowed
sc2 menu 60 max - ingame 120 ok if going to fullscreen, no 120 if windowed
diablo 3 60 max fullscreen with vsync on or off - window mode vsync off = over 120, window mode vsync on = max 60 fps ?? does d3 not support 120hz?
dishonored 120 fullscreen ok
deus ex: hr 120 fullscreen ok.

so can I assume as a general rule of thumb, windowed mode does not like 120 and will not (if never) work?
not every game will run on 120? (like diablo3?)


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have found no frame skipping in games. Games in full screen take over the screen and generally this seperates it from the secondary screens field of view. This is why in a full screen game if you click on your secondary monitor it will minimize or window the game. However i do recommend turning the secondary display off when full screen gaming to better make use of VRAM especially since you are trying to push [email protected] Less unused load on the GPU means more power for the game thus higher FPS.
> 
> And the cables i got from monoprice were very hit or miss. I ended up finding an old cable in a box at work that got me slightly better than the best monoprice cable. After testing dozens of cables the only conclusion i could draw was keep your cable under 10ft since the length does take a toll on data degradation. The size actually showed that over 6ft required a 24AWG cable and under 6ft 24AWG did just as good. I am currently using a nameless white DVI-D cable that is 28AWG and just under 3ft long.
> 
> I would say if you have friends or can get a hold of cables cheap(monoprice may be the best place but there are others out there) to test with than sure but i would go spending a fortune on cables and definitely benchmark the pixel clock first.


Now that you mention secondary display, since I am using the 660ti HDMI output for Audio on my HK receiver..that is detected as another display...I wonder how if anything, that really affects my performance.
Heck, I changed the Resolution to the smallest for that one just in case.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> thanks for the cable answers.
> 
> I got another one for games, I am currently testing which games I have support 120hz, should every game support it? also there is some odd behaviour.
> 
> sometimes I have to disable/re-enable vsync ingame in order to see the 120 cap. sometimes i have to go fullscreen, i assume 120 windowed does not work?
> 
> wow menu 120 ok - wow ingame 120 ok if going to fullscreen, no 120 if windowed
> sc2 menu 60 max - ingame 120 ok if going to fullscreen, no 120 if windowed
> diablo 3 60 max fullscreen with vsync on or off - window mode vsync off = over 120, window mode vsync on = max 60 fps ?? does d3 not support 120hz?
> dishonored 120 fullscreen ok
> deus ex: hr 120 fullscreen ok.
> 
> so can I assume as a general rule of thumb, windowed mode does not like 120 and will not (if never) work?
> not every game will run on 120? (like diablo3?)


I could be wrong, but I THINK windowed mode would still work at 120Hz as long as NO PART of the window is touching your second screen running at 60Hz.

I've seen some "windowed fullscreen" settings actually extend a few pixels onto my second monitor, thus reducing the refresh rate to 60.

As for games supporting 120Hz, you can usually force them if you choose the "Preferred Refresh Rate: Use Highest Available" setting for that game in the Nvidia Control Panel. It works with a lot of games that do not include a GUI refresh rate setting, but it does not work with all games

Vsync Off will not limit your frames to your monitors refresh rate, so you could see fps way higher than 120.


----------



## dante`afk

you`re right, some games seem to extend pixels to the second screen which is causing this.

i dont see this Preferred Refresh Rate setting in my NV CP, but I set it in NV inspector though.

http://i.imgur.com/0HgRdMa.jpg


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> you`re right, some games seem to extend pixels to the second screen which is causing this.
> 
> i dont see this Preferred Refresh Rate setting in my NV CP, but I set it in NV inspector though.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/0HgRdMa.jpg


In the Nvidia Control Panel, under the Manage 3D Settings section, Program Settings tab, you can select the refresh rate for specific programs that otherwise wouldn't let you change it.

This is useful if you wanted to run 96Hz on the desktop, but wanted to run games at 120Hz, and the game has no option to set its own refresh rate


----------



## pk7677

Can I run 1920x1080 @ 120hz on my Qnix without having my screen centered in the middle with black boarders? 60hz @ 1920x1080 works fine, I get stretched full screen, looks ugly as hell tho, but before my new graphics card gets here I want to play bf3 @ 1920x1080 @ 120hz without my screen centered in the middle surrounded by black boarders. Any one got solution to my problem? Please help.

Btw when I got to CCC when its 120hz the scale image to full screen doesn't work and overscan is grey out too...


----------



## theilya

i wonder will this screen work on the new 290x


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> i wonder will this screen work on the new 290x


It will, and you should be able to run 2 of the DVI-D only versions off a single card too


----------



## Duffsta82

*


----------



## Duffsta82

*


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> In the Nvidia Control Panel, under the Manage 3D Settings section, Program Settings tab, you can select the refresh rate for specific programs that otherwise wouldn't let you change it.
> 
> This is useful if you wanted to run 96Hz on the desktop, but wanted to run games at 120Hz, and the game has no option to set its own refresh rate


hehe I know what ya mean, but for whatever reason I don`t have it in my CP. I could bet I saw it some hours ago and now it disappeared.



http://imgur.com/o15LZsC


----------



## Remmib

Has anyone tried one of the multi-input Qnix models with a Mac?

Need to know if it is compatible (even though the seller page says it probably isn't.)


----------



## Duffsta82

If I remember right I've heard people saying it worked cos it has a display port


----------



## Kokin

It does work with a Mac, but you need the DisplayPort or multi-input version. The person I'm buying a Qnix from had it working with a Mac. I'll ask him how he did it when I buy it on Friday

http://www.technologyx.com/pc-hardware/display/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/3/

This review also showed getting 120Hz through two Multi-input models, but it only OC'd using DL-DVI, HDMI did not work (it can't drive 1440p @ 120Hz anyway). I thought multi-input versions were not overclockable?


----------



## Duffsta82

*


----------



## seize

Hey guys, I just got my monitor (X-Star 2710) and it's fantastic! I bought it for 309 from dream seller and got it in 3 days. I don't see any dead pixels and very minimal backlight bleed. I have it OC to 96hz right now and everything seems to be smooth!


----------



## Duffsta82

Hey has anyone been able to fix yellow backlight bleed? Mines pretty bad between middle and right sides bottom if I press on it gets a bit better but kinda moves.. worth opening her up??


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duffsta82*
> 
> Hey has anyone been able to fix yellow backlight bleed? Mines pretty bad between middle and right sides bottom if I press on it gets a bit better but kinda moves.. worth opening her up??


look at o.p. has instructions for backlight bleed i believe.

Your welcome


----------



## Duffsta82

Ok so i think i should rewrite my opinion about the Qnix OC (perfect pixel, matte) i received from http://www.overclockmonitor.com i finally arrived home after work to try her out properly.
I now take back my statement on the 1 dead pixel turns out no dead pixels so it is a Perfect Pixel just like advertised very happy.
It just has a (very very) small DARK SPOT which i have to go looking to find, The seller did tell me that (dark spots) aren't included in the PP promises which is fine he was straight up & to be honest this is to be expected very happy.

The monitor overclocks to 120hz easily just as the OC version says on his site, it might suffer from some image retention but i am running it at 486Mhz in CRU Pixel clock, it may happen less once i tweak the setting to under 450Mhz, ill probably be running it at 60hz desktop & 96 for gaming anyway screen gets darker as you go up as everyone else has experienced.

The only things i can say weren't perfect are the stand which doesn't even fit the monitor seems it has to much plastic at the bass of the stand ill probably get some sand paper out tomorrow make a temp fix before i buy a stand for my desk.
Also the BLB on the lower right is not the best kinda yellowish i can see it easy when playing movies or dark games, looks like normal to maybe bit worse than normal BLB but i realize this is due to the Monitors Bezel/frame not the panel its self most of the time. Pushing the bezel makes it better but moves it around to other spots.

So overall i am very happy with this monitor the stand may not work right & it has some BLB but that's it all fixable i think.
overclocks to 120hz easily & No Dead Pixels at all

They answered every email i sent to them over the sale explained everything i needed to know very good customer service keeping you in the loop.


----------



## Duffsta82

Seems i get image retention with anything over 60hz that sites on the screen for to long. Games & movies should be ok i am guessing but anything desktop related like web browser url bar & writing an email etc seem to hold on the screen for like 20mins.. anyone else have this problem?


----------



## dmikester1

Anyone know how these compare to the new "Yamakasi Catleap Precision 2703 27" 2560x1440 IPS LED LCD Monitor"? Obviously it is IPS instead of PLS. I see it is on sale on Ebay for $319 right now.


----------



## mudzi

How about MAC OSX and Linux on a self-built machine, I can easily "hackintosh" this computer and tri-boot is awesome, I like all the different operating systems for different things so would this work? Obviously I dont care about overclocking it on OSX/Linux


----------



## SirDuke

I just received mine-- it's the multi input Qnix QX2710 LED, matte. The screen looks great and has no dead pixels but the blacklight bleed is pretty bad. Going to try the tape fix.

Mine has an OSD with the ability to lower both the brightness and contrast, but neither of those settings appear to do anything to the blacklight itself. Is that normal? Is there not a way to just lower the intensity of the LED backlight?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> Anyone know how these compare to the new "Yamakasi Catleap Precision 2703 27" 2560x1440 IPS LED LCD Monitor"? Obviously it is IPS instead of PLS. I see it is on sale on Ebay for $319 right now.


It probably will not be overclockable, so you would lose that feature.

As far as I know, the LG IPS panels are little bit sharper than these Samgsung PLS panels, but the PLS panels have richer colors.

If running above 60Hz is not important to you, and you'd prefer sharper text over richer colors, it might be a good choice. But personally I think the real draw to these is the fact that they're pretty much the only monitor on the market that can run at 2560x1440 at 120Hz


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Okay so I can do 110hz easily without changing anything @ 443 pixel clock.

120hz gives me green lines so I want to try to lower the pixel clock.

Whenever I change anything like front porch/back porch it doesn't seem to change the pixel clock very much @ 120hz

If I am in manual model in CRU and I change the pixel clock to say 450 it puts me @ 112hz automatically.

I'm not understanding how I am supposed to fine tune this.

if I use automatic - lcd reduced. It sets the pixel clock @ 469 for 120hz


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Okay so I can do 110hz easily without changing anything @ 443 pixel clock.
> 
> 120hz gives me green lines so I want to try to lower the pixel clock.
> 
> Whenever I change anything like front porch/back porch it doesn't seem to change the pixel clock very much @ 120hz
> 
> If I am in manual model in CRU and I change the pixel clock to say 450 it puts me @ 112hz automatically.
> 
> I'm not understanding how I am supposed to fine tune this.


Try changing the pixel clock to 459.86mhz.. Thats the lowest I know of that anyone has gotten to so far.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pk7677*
> 
> Can I run 1920x1080 @ 120hz on my Qnix without having my screen centered in the middle with black boarders? 60hz @ 1920x1080 works fine, I get stretched full screen, looks ugly as hell tho, but before my new graphics card gets here I want to play bf3 @ 1920x1080 @ 120hz without my screen centered in the middle surrounded by black boarders. Any one got solution to my problem? Please help.
> 
> Btw when I got to CCC when its 120hz the scale image to full screen doesn't work and overscan is grey out too...


Yes you can. You can set the image scaling options in CCC - to "ungrey" the option, make sure your windows resolution is set to the resolution you want to modify (1920x1080)


----------



## jerrolds

[deleted]


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Try changing the pixel clock to 459.86mhz.. Thats the lowest I know of that anyone has gotten to so far.


If I change the pixel clock manually it lowers it to whatever hz it feels like.

Like, I can't just lower the pixel clock without it changing the refresh rate?



that is the highest i've been able to go. I don't see any lines @ 117 hz but I feel like if I knew what I was doing to tweak it I could go to 120.


----------



## TrptJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duffsta82*
> 
> Hey has anyone been able to fix yellow backlight bleed? Mines pretty bad between middle and right sides bottom if I press on it gets a bit better but kinda moves.. worth opening her up??


From what I've seen on my panel, yellow backlight bleed may be caused by the entire panel being bent, while white backlight bleed is from the metal surround/bracket pressing against the panel. Lay a ruler against your screen at different angles to see if it is flat across its entire length.

Here's what my backlight bleed looked like:


When I took the panel out of the casing I saw this:


I laid the panel down face-first and place weights on to hold it flat.


This did 95% of the job, and a bit of strategically placed cardboard to torque it completely straight did the rest. How it looks now:


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> If I change the pixel clock manually it lowers it to whatever hz it feels like.
> 
> Like, I can't just lower the pixel clock without it changing the refresh rate?


Unfortunately only works one way - set the timings and you get the calculated pixel clock.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Unfortunately only works one way - set the timings and you get the calculated pixel clock.


hmmm So that likely means i'm stuck @ 117hz then? I'm just not sure what to change to go for 120hz.

I haven't even done the frame skipping test yet @ 120hz so i'll need to do that before I call it working anyway.

I will probably just use 96hz anyway as this looks pretty dark.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> If I change the pixel clock manually it lowers it to whatever hz it feels like.
> 
> Like, I can't just lower the pixel clock without it changing the refresh rate?


In CRU if you go to custom timings there is options for "total pixels" and options for "front porch". These and th other timings options will be what you use to manipulate the pixel clock without changing the refresh. For example if your pixel clock is 486Mhz with your total pixels at 2760x1468 you can simply start with optimizing the lowest total pixels that will still display a picture. Meaning changing the total pixel slightly lower to 2750x1461 thus getting a pixel clock of something like 478Mhz and keeping the same refresh. This basically benchmarks the blanking intermediary state of the monitor. This is a kind of overshoot that all monitors do to make sure they are able to always display a picture. What you will be doing is optimizing your monitor to the limit and leaving little to no room for error at the benefit of reducing the bloated data rate.

You can find more info regarding this by finding my old post(again that i wont be reposting, search "front porch" and you will find it pretty easy". You can also check out the CRU thread for some very in depth timings handling and the catleap thread has quite an extensive research behind timing optimization. Lastly 120hz.net has some good threads that i read over in my research and optimizing. I definitely recommend knowing what all this does before you start.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Unfortunately only works one way - set the timings and you get the calculated pixel clock.


I think he was changing from teh refresh option to the pixel clock option thus working backwards and not being able to do any direct optimization.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> hmmm So that likely means i'm stuck @ 117hz then? I'm just not sure what to change to go for 120hz.
> 
> I haven't even done the frame skipping test yet @ 120hz so i'll need to do that before I call it working anyway.
> 
> I will probably just use 96hz anyway as this looks pretty dark.


No matter what level of overclocking you do it is going to through off the gamma shift. This is a side effect of the over bloating pixel clock and lack of factory calibration. I would recommend calibrating the monitor at both refreshes and see how good a picture you can get, then decide(after pixel clock optimization).


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> hmmm So that likely means i'm stuck @ 117hz then? I'm just not sure what to change to go for 120hz.
> 
> I haven't even done the frame skipping test yet @ 120hz so i'll need to do that before I call it working anyway.
> 
> I will probably just use 96hz anyway as this looks pretty dark.




Not my pic, but those should work.


----------



## bmancreations

I am getting a Mac Mini (for work) and was planning on getting a third of these monitors, so then on my desk, there would be three of them (would look amazing) but then thought, wait, does the Mac Mini have Duel Link DVI? No, I don't think so? Are there anyways I can use these monitors with it?


----------



## jerrolds

You can use (mini) Display Port -> Dual Link DVI **active** adapter - but most only go up to 350mhz, when i tested my adapter i could only overclock up to 80hz or so


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> You can use (mini) Display Port -> Dual Link DVI **active** adapter - but most only go up to 350mhz, when i tested my adapter i could only overclock up to 80hz or so


80hz ain't bad, thanks for the tip.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> I'm assuming this error is because of the patch but does anyone else get this..I looked in my windows logs in system and found this:
> 
> The description for Event ID 14 from source nvlddmkm cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.
> 
> If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event.
> 
> The following information was included with the event:
> 
> \Device\Video1
> CMDre 00000000 00000804 00862a20 00000004 00000084


I dont know if it's just my setup or if everyone is getting the error. I downgraded my drivers to 320.18 and the Event ID 14 error is completely gone.. Its been about 24hours and not one error.. It used to be that I got an error every 20-30 mins. Does anyone else see that error in their system logs with the latest drivers?


----------



## inertianinja

About Glossy vs. Matte:

If I'm used to working on a laptop that has a glass screen (retina MBP), would that be a good indicator that I would like the Glossy screen?


----------



## rawzkee

Can anyone confirm if this is what backlight bleeding is? The images I have found online when searching backlight bleeding do not seem as severe as this.I am kind of new to this whole monitor troubleshooting deal so any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## TrptJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawzkee*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if this is what backlight bleeding is? The images I have found online when searching backlight bleeding do not seem as severe as this.I am kind of new to this whole monitor troubleshooting deal so any help is greatly appreciated.


If the distortion in that pic isn't from the camera, I would say that your panel is severely bent and the LEDs that are located there aren't functioning.


----------



## rawzkee

Might be distortion from the camera because the panel isn't bent. Would you know if this is something easily repaired, or is monitor done for?


----------



## TrptJim

I would return that one, if I were you. I considered my panel to be pretty bad, but I still had illumination from all LEDs. I would send that pic to the seller and get him to pay for shipping and send a replacement.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrptJim*
> 
> I would return that one, if I were you. I considered my panel to be pretty bad, but I still had illumination from all LEDs. I would send that pic to the seller and get him to pay for shipping and send a replacement.


I agree with this, I think that's unacceptable by every seller's terms.


----------



## rawzkee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> I agree with this, I think that's unacceptable by every seller's terms.


It might be a little too late for that. I purchased the monitor about one month and a half ago saw it was defective but had to leave the country before being able to return it within 14 day refund policy. I emailed ebay seller about warranty terms and possibly exchanging, but I highly doubt this will be possible. In the event that I have to keep it, would paying a technician to repair or replace Led too costly?


----------



## TrptJim

It doesn't hurt to ask. If you bought it from a top seller, they do care about their user rating and may be willing to work out something with you as long as you don't give them a bad review.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawzkee*
> 
> Might be distortion from the camera because the panel isn't bent. Would you know if this is something easily repaired, or is monitor done for?


The casing is not bent - but for sure the metal frame around the panel is putting uneven pressure...youre going to definately need to open it up and take out the metal frame and straight it out.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> 
> 
> Not my pic, but those should work.


cool those let me boot up 120hz with no lines / artifacts that I can see so far.

I'll need to run that 120hz frame skip test to see if it is good or not.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> cool those let me boot up 120hz with no lines / artifacts that I can see so far.
> 
> I'll need to run that 120hz frame skip test to see if it is good or not.


Great! Make sure you use Chrome.. Firefox doesnt play nice with the frame skip test, at least for me.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Great! Make sure you use Chrome.. Firefox doesnt play nice with the frame skip test, at least for me.


Seems like I am good to go at 120 (still need to play games to confirm I guess).

EDIT: got green lines as soon as I launched metro last light. That is okay though pushing 120hz all the time on everything is gonna be hard anyway even with xfire 7950's i'd guess.

I think i'll try running 110 with these settings. Pixel clock only 421mhz so should be good for colors as well..





Thanks alot for posting those settings. I didn't want to try to figure it all out my self pretty busy with anatomy and physiology right now and prefer to spend time gaming not fiddling.

Btw which 120hz profile are most people using ? I am actually using the slh28 110hz profile at 17 clicks brightness like he said. Looks the best to me so far. Hutt132 has a decent 120hz profile but the slh28 one looks better to me.

Is there any solid info on how overclocking effects the life span of these monitors? as long as it lasts two good years i'll be happy. 4k should be affordable then anyway.

random musing: the wire they supply for the monitor has screws on it that aren't even long enough to actually screw in to the monitor.... I tried for like 10 mins couldn't get it to screw in to the monitor end, worked fine on the gfx card end though.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Seems like I am good to go at 120 (still need to play games to confirm I guess).
> 
> EDIT: got green lines as soon as I launched metro last light. That is okay though pushing 120hz all the time on everything is gonna be hard anyway even with xfire 7950's i'd guess.
> 
> .


Try switching DVI ports if you can... Or get a different cable. But 110hz is totally fine, IMO. I usually run with 110hz just to keep the chip under 450mhz.


----------



## VENAXIS

A question for monitor overclockers: Does overclocking your monitor reduces the panel's lifespan?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Try switching DVI ports if you can... Or get a different cable. But 110hz is totally fine, IMO. I usually run with 110hz just to keep the chip under 450mhz.


I have 7950's in xfire, each card only has one DVI. and with xfire you can only use the first cards ports supposedly. So i'd have to switch cards around to try another port.

I might do it eventually but i'm liking the 420mhz pixel clock of 110hz anyway. Seems the colors are a bit better and 10hz isn't gonna make a huge difference anyway.

Another cable might be an option, like I said earlier it seems the screws on the supplied cable aren't even long enough to screw in to the port on the monitor... I couldn't get it to screw in anyway. I just have it hanging there









I've seen some people say the mono price ones are better, other people say they aren't I would like a longer cable but I'd imagine that would reduce overclock potential.

I'm torn anyway..... I feel like I can tell the difference in BF3 between 60 and 110hz but to keep up such a high framerate @ 1440p I have to play with pretty low settings.

Seems like a big trade off, stunning visuals at 1440p or performance. I will likely only run 110hz on multi player games where quick reactions make a big difference.

So far the settings you gave me earlier for 120hz seem to be working great for 110hz. Played a few rounds of noshar canals team death match on low settings @ like 100+ to 150 fps on noshar canal and didn't seen any issue except maybe the colors not being the best even with the icc profile. Such is the fate when oc'ing these though.


----------



## thuynh022

Just received my qnix from red cap today. (After reading all the negative reviews if course) Ordered a Pixel perfect from him for 310. So far no dead pixels, very little bleed at top right. Will try to overclock tonight. The screen looks amazing next to my 1080p TN panel.


----------



## mboner1

Still a little concerned about the high temps of the power brick. It's ALMOST to hot to keep your hand on. Does anyone know of a adequate replacement from ebay? I'm in Australia not that that should matter as i obviously have the right lead to the power point, just need a appropriate power brick for this monitor.


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Still a little concerned about the high temps of the power brick. It's ALMOST to hot to keep your hand on. Does anyone know of a adequate replacement from ebay? I'm in Australia not that that should matter as i obviouslt have the right lead to the power point, just need a appropriate power brick for this monitor.


I'd like to know as well, from either Amazon or eBay.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Still a little concerned about the high temps of the power brick. It's ALMOST to hot to keep your hand on. Does anyone know of a adequate replacement from ebay? I'm in Australia not that that should matter as i obviously have the right lead to the power point, just need a appropriate power brick for this monitor.


I really wouldn't worry about it, it isn't gonna get hot enough to ignite wood. It does get fairly hot however.. I wouldn't leave it on a carpet floor mostly because of static and carpet insulating it making the bottom hotter though, not really because of risk of fire.

I really need to buy a laser thermometer, I've wanted one for awhile and this would be a good time to have one.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> A question for monitor overclockers: Does overclocking your monitor reduces the panel's lifespan?


Overclocking Korean panels hasn't been around long enough to calculate with a certain degree of accuracy if it will reduce the panels lifespan. We can induce however that due to the higher pixel clock frequency and the higher strain you are putting on the panel and boards, it probably will reduce its life, but by how much we don't know. I really don't know the average life expectancy of a TV or a monitor but I can imagine with personal experience it will last quite sometime normally. If the monitor lasts like a year, maybe it's not recommended to overclock it. I'll take the risk just like I take the risk overclocking my CPU and GPUs. Plus I don't think I've heard of an overclocked Yamakasi Catleap die and those have been around a while longer.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirDuke*
> 
> I just received the multi input Qnix QX2710 LED, matte. The screen looks great and has no dead pixels but the blacklight bleed is pretty bad. Going to try the tape fix.
> 
> Mine has an OSD with the ability to lower both the brightness and contrast, but neither of those settings appear to do anything to the blacklight itself. Is that normal? Is there not a way to just lower the intensity of the LED backlight?


Could you try confirming if the multi-input version is overclockable via DL-DVI? Someone was able to do it via the review in my quote below:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It does work with a Mac, but you need the DisplayPort or multi-input version. The person I'm buying a Qnix from had it working with a Mac. I'll ask him how he did it when I buy it on Friday
> 
> http://www.technologyx.com/pc-hardware/display/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/3/
> 
> This review also showed getting 120Hz through two Multi-input models, but it only OC'd using DL-DVI, HDMI did not work (it can't drive 1440p @ 120Hz anyway). I thought multi-input versions were not overclockable?


----------



## Duffsta82

*


----------



## ds84

Hi, can i get some verifications on whether 770 2gb or in sli is good enough for 1440p gaming in ultra without AA, for latest games.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Hi, can i get some verifications on whether 770 2gb or in sli is good enough for 1440p gaming in ultra without AA, for latest games.


A single 770 2GB should be good enough for 1440p without AA and get 60~90FPS+ for most games. You may possibly reach 2GB for some games, but typically you won't go much higher than 1~1.5GB at that res.

Even with my 3240x1920 res, I don't hit 2GB unless it's a game like Tomb Raider where it makes use of all 3GB of my VRAM.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> A single 770 2GB should be good enough for 1440p without AA and get 60~90FPS+ for most games. You may possibly reach 2GB for some games, but typically you won't go much higher than 1~1.5GB at that res.
> 
> Even with my 3240x1920 res, I don't hit 2GB unless it's a game like Tomb Raider where it makes use of all 3GB of my VRAM.


So, if im intending to plae that, what shld i change in settings?


----------



## Ghost12

Well my screen has been broken since 48hrs after purchase back in August, a replacement pcb is finally in the post and half way across the world to arrive tomorrow. I have just stripped down my screen in preparation and removed the old pcb. I was a little apprehensive about doing this but in all honesty it took maybe 15 minutes. So far so good. Just awaiting the post man now.


----------



## Duffsta82

Ok guys i need help!!!

I have been getting image retention even at 60hz!!! i can't do anything so pissed off at the moment! I just tried loading up doom3 it crashed with a flickering image on load up.. now my whole screen is flickering hardout with normal windows image in the background!! and it had retention of the crash all in like 5secs!!! on 60hz! iam sending this thing back not happy at all 2nd monitor now that is fautly dam my luck!!!

emailed overclockmonitor.com yesterday about this haven't heard back left a couple emails hopefully he replys soon this is unacceptable for $440nz if it wasn't doing it at 60hz i wouldn't be so worried damit!


----------



## jerrolds

IR at 60hz is probably good cause for a return, not sure if you wanna try your luck again though. I guess ive been pretty lucky as i get zero IR at 120hz (just horrible BLB i was able to fix)


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> So, if im intending to plae that, what shld i change in settings?


You'll have to play with the settings but definitely not gonna work with ultra + AA or else it dips down to 15-20 fps. You can stick with all high/normal settings and it honestly looks the same to me unless I stand in place and take screenshots.


----------



## Kokin

Whoops double post.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> So, if im intending to plae that, what shld i change in settings?


As mentioned, turning off AA completely (or using FXAA if you really need it) - and HBAO/Tesselation can boost performance a lot.


----------



## Duffsta82

Hey Jerrolds, iam fully guttered i thought it was only over 60hz but turns out at 60hz as well really unlucky 2nd monitor now!! dream-seller hopefully we refund me today for the other monitor and iam not happy about this i hope they will email me back soon and help me sort this out .. thing is i love this monitor just the defect image retention is horrible and when something crashed it seems to get retention on the flicker if it was cos of the Screen res it was set at







so it flickered hard out for like 15mins got a huge headache from it.
Don't know if i can bring my self to order anther one now lucky much!


----------



## Duffsta82

*


----------



## bmancreations

I just purchased my second X-Star, I hope it arrives as awesome as the first one


----------



## bmancreations

Guys, I am now looking for a desk mount for these monitors, hoping for something cheap (I'm in Canada).

I have 2 X-Stars, and hope to get a third (right now I have an old heavy HP 24" LCD).

Ideas?


----------



## iiDeadSeriousii

Ordered my first QNIX last week! Due to the weekend the payment wasn't processed until early Monday morning and that's when the monitor shipped out. It was at my doorstep Wednesday afternoon. For free shipping it's unfathomable that something made it to my house from S. Korea in under two days.

Everything arrived in great condition and I only have two issues. First was the screw to connect the stand to the monitor. The screw was stripped and isn't really gripping it's threads. Anybody know of what size this screw is? I'm thinking maybe a #8, but just to be safe I'm bring some #6, #8, and #10 from work to check it out later.

My only other problem was a single red pixel sitting to the bottom of the center. That looks to be the worst of my issues as BLB isn't as bad as other people have mentioned, or maybe I have a higher tolerance (or it's very possibly I was so damn excited that I turned a blind eye to it). I did an initial overclock to 96hz just to see if it would work and it did. When I get the thing properly mounted on a stand this afternoon I'll do more extensive tests and see if my SLI GTX680 setup can even handle what I'm trying to overclock to.


----------



## jojoenglish85

Look what i recieved in the mail today???







No dead pixels, got this baby from Dreamseller slight back light bleed.
Got one more in the mail and im waiting patiently for it to get here









Dreamseller is BOSS, he has my vote oh and i got this for like $287


----------



## Spartan F8

Well i am not sure if anyone is interested but here is my settings for downsampling the Qnix to 4K. I have been PMing back and forth with another member trying to optimize this to try and get 4K at as high of a refresh as possible. So far i can only get 55hz but the other member has been able to get 60hz. His timings don't work for me but mine are a bit more tight so he may get higher once he gets back to me. The goal for me is to get [email protected] downsampled(may not be possible but it is a good number to shoot for).

This will be most usefull for people who want the highest detail possible with even sacrificing the high refresh. Many people think 72hz is a big leap from 60hz and many can't see a big difference from 96hz to 120hz(not counting lightboost as the Qnix does not have it). I have played several games with the 4K downsample and i can really say it does help a lot(especially with older games). Also many games that are not FPS or very reaction skill based would benefit more from the mass increased detail and sharpness. I played some Skyrim at [email protected] and then [email protected] and really there was not a major difference(may be due to the games somewhat poor coding). I then applied the downsample and played [email protected] The increased detail and clarity is not night and day but is definitely worth noting. Other games like civilization were benefited greatly by the increased map scope or screen real estate.

I welcome any other members interested in this to try it out and share their settings. The higher the refresh @ 4K the better. Any higher downsample than 4K is a bit more of a bragging right but i would still be interested to see it. My current highest downsample is [email protected](48hz interlaced). I find this to be the one other form of overclocking that has not been explored to much here so it would be great to at least get some good research behind it.

Happy overclocking











EDIT: I would also like to note if you do not get to 60hz and only get something like 55~58hz then it will not be a standard refresh per your EDID(so it will not show up in games). Normally many downsampling people will tell you to manually hack the EDID to include the odd refresh but you can also add a native offset refresh to CRU. For example if your 4K downsample is 57hz and it does not show up in games then add a custome resolution in CRU for [email protected] This is an in-direct way of "hacking" the EDID(which i find MUCH easier as it is like 6 steps instead of two more applications and 36 steps). After there is a native resolution with that refresh windows will now see it as a standard refresh thus displaying it in games and the windows resolution selector and displaying it for all intermediary resolutions(including your 4K downsample).


----------



## Remmib

^Nice work Spartan, I look forward to seeing more from you.


----------



## Spartan F8

Note, Don't use regular AA in dead space or left 4 dead with a downsampled resolution. For some reason the game just pukes when both are used together. Downsampling would still beat AA anyway but you have to blow the games display config file to get the screen back so i wanted to let everyone know.

EDIT: Turns out shadowrun has no clue what to do with a 4K resolution. And it is not just the downsample either, i just tried it on my native [email protected] TV and it did the same thing.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

maybe im just blind but my menu doesn't look like yours. It doesn't have a display mode as reported by windows section in CRU when I hit edit the custom resolution.

Also why is it called down sampling? isn't it up-sampling adding more pixels than the monitor is designed for ? not trying to sound smart since i'm not when it comes to this.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> maybe im just blind but my menu doesn't look like yours. It doesn't have a display mode as reported by windows section in CRU when I hit edit the custom resolution.
> 
> Also why is it called down sampling? isn't it up-sampling adding more pixels than the monitor is designed for ? not trying to sound smart since i'm not when it comes to this.


Firstly that is CRU not nvidia custom resolutions. CRU is not meant for downsampling as it does not have a rendered VS processed pixel count. If you have AMD then you need to use the "AMD downsampling tool".

Secondly, the reason it is called downsampling is because it is rendering a higher pixel count and then downsampling it to the screen thus creating a form of hardware anti-aliasing. Think of it as a brute force anti-aliasing. Up sampling would be something like Jinc or Lanzos creating new intermediary pixels by slicing the origin image through re-bit mapping. Old CRT's had a form of upsampling to them since there was no actual native resolution(or least in the way understand native today).

Please note that you would NOT use CRU for downsampling. Please take a look at these two very well laid out and detailed tutorials on downsampling. After reading through these you have a very good idea of what i being done here and the benefits/tradeoffs there are:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509076

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=346325


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Firstly that is CRU not nvidia custom resolutions. CRU is not meant for downsampling as it does not have a rendered VS processed pixel count. If you have AMD then you need to use the "AMD downsampling tool".
> 
> Secondly, the reason it is called downsampling is because it is rendering a higher pixel count and then downsampling it to the screen thus creating a form of hardware anti-aliasing. Think of it as a brute force anti-aliasing. Up sampling would be something like Jinc or Lanzos creating new intermediary pixels by slicing the origin image through re-bit mapping. Old CRT's had a form of upsampling to them since there was no actual native resolution(or least in the way understand native today).
> 
> Please note that you would NOT use CRU for downsampling. Please take a look at these two very well laid out and detailed tutorials on downsampling. After reading through these you have a very good idea of what i being done here and the benefits/tradeoffs there are:
> 
> http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509076
> 
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=346325


awesome will do.

edit: apparently that amd down sampling tool doesn't work for 13xx amd drivers









it takes some process of reinstalling 12.11 adding the resolution and then reinstalling 13xxx

haven't even tested if that works.

Reading over the first link it seems this is a form of AA and the monitor won't actually be displaying 4K as I thought it was...... Seems i'm not as interested as I thought at first.


----------



## Spartan F8

It is a form of aliasing but if you look at those tutorial pictures you will notice it IS and day different from other forms of AA. But no not true 4K.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> It is a form of aliasing but if you look at those tutorial pictures you will notice it IS and day different from other forms of AA. But no not true 4K.


yeah I got all excited that this monitor could do 4k









Seems to be alot more difficult to get it to work on amd hardware (of course) or i'd check it out.

Honestly i'm already torn between running stuff @ 1440p/60/96/110hz. Seeing as how even with xfire 7950s I'm gonna have to play stuff on low to keep up 110+fps most of the time.

I figure the higher refresh rate only makes a big deal on online fps games where a fraction of a second make a big difference some times.

For single player games 60 is fine with everything on ultra.

Wondering what other peoples thoughts are.


----------



## Mbalmer

I have a question that might seem stupid to some, but why are the normal overclock numbers people use are 96, 110, and 120hz? Why not 104, or 115, or some other number? Is there some common denominator that I am not seeing in the three?


----------



## thehidecheck

Thought I'd post my project here, figure y'all be interested. QNIX 2710 + 2 laptop screens for the perfect surround setup. I would have made a build log... but I'm bad bout that stuff.



A wonderful and unique setup. Had to use laptop screens because there were no commercially available high res screens of the correct size. Utilizing laptop screens for portrait, i was able to maintain the correct resolution 1440p with appropriately sized monitors. As an added benefit, the bezels on the laptop screens are ridiculously small. Have yet to do brightness/contrast adjusting, will get to it soon.

As far as the size and resolution of the display as a whole, I believe it is a near perfect setup for many video game genre's(fps, rpg, and driving to be included). After sampling many setups, i find the portrait-landscape-portrait setup to be the most ideal for gaming. Typical surround, 3x landscape, wasted resolution too far into my peripheral vision and had bezels too close to the center/focus of the image. Come time to browse the interwebs, i got another 21.5" sitting on the side.

Edit: making the frame and getting the right controller boards were a beach and a half.


----------



## Mbalmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thehidecheck*
> 
> Thought I'd post my project here, figure y'all be interested. QNIX 2710 + 2 laptop screens for the perfect surround setup. I would have made a build log... but I'm bad bout that stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful and unique setup. Had to use laptop screens because there were no commercially available high res screens of the correct size. Utilizing laptop screens for portrait, i was able to maintain the correct resolution 1440p with appropriately sized monitors. As an added benefit, the bezels on the laptop screens are ridiculously small. Have yet to do brightness/contrast adjusting, will get to it soon.
> 
> As far as the size and resolution of the display as a whole, I believe it is a near perfect setup for many video game genre's(fps, rpg, and driving to be included). After sampling many setups, i find the portrait-landscape-portrait setup to be the most ideal for gaming. Typical surround, 3x landscape, wasted resolution too far into my peripheral vision and had bezels too close to the center/focus of the image. Come time to browse the interwebs, i got another 21.5" sitting on the side.
> 
> Edit: making the frame and getting the right controller boards were a beach and a half.


That is awesome. At some point I am going to have to do something with 3 screens, but I don't think I am smart enough to do it this way. Good work.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thehidecheck*
> 
> Thought I'd post my project here, figure y'all be interested. QNIX 2710 + 2 laptop screens for the perfect surround setup. I would have made a build log... but I'm bad bout that stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> A wonderful and unique setup. Had to use laptop screens because there were no commercially available high res screens of the correct size. Utilizing laptop screens for portrait, i was able to maintain the correct resolution 1440p with appropriately sized monitors. As an added benefit, the bezels on the laptop screens are ridiculously small. Have yet to do brightness/contrast adjusting, will get to it soon.
> 
> As far as the size and resolution of the display as a whole, I believe it is a near perfect setup for many video game genre's(fps, rpg, and driving to be included). After sampling many setups, i find the portrait-landscape-portrait setup to be the most ideal for gaming. Typical surround, 3x landscape, wasted resolution too far into my peripheral vision and had bezels too close to the center/focus of the image. Come time to browse the interwebs, i got another 21.5" sitting on the side.
> 
> Edit: making the frame and getting the right controller boards were a beach and a half.


nice modi and magni I see you got tired of the bright led on the modi


----------



## thehidecheck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> nice modi and magni I see you got tired of the bright led on the modi


My bed is 2 feet to the right of this pic, couldnt sleep at night


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thehidecheck*
> 
> My bed is 2 feet to the right of this pic, couldnt sleep at night


Yeah I got a modi about 2 months ago my self and the led is ******ed bright. I really hate led's on electronics even though they do serve a purpose.

I think im gonna put electrical tape on the modi and my qnix also


----------



## Testier

Essentially, by buying the PLS monitor comparing to korean IPS monitor, you take a risk at dead, bright and stuck pixels since the perfect pixel monitors does nothing, but you gain 120hz, am I right?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Essentially, by buying the PLS monitor comparing to korean IPS monitor, you take a risk at dead, bright and stuck pixels since the perfect pixel monitors does nothing, but you gain 120hz, am I right?


you are wrong because any monitor from any manufacturer has a chance of bad pixels. but you are right that the qnix can be oced


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> you are wrong because any monitor from any manufacturer has a chance of bad pixels. but you are right that the qnix can be oced


I know what you are saying, but manufacturers like dell would consider even one dead pixel to be defect where in this case, it would not be. I found one korean IPS monitor that guarantees ZERO dead pixel but nothing on the PLS can offer zero dead pixel. I would prefer not to take the risk of getting one dead pixel.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> I know what you are saying, but manufacturers like dell would consider even one dead pixel to be defect where in this case, it would not be. I found one korean IPS monitor that guarantees ZERO dead pixel but nothing on the PLS can offer zero dead pixel. I would prefer not to take the risk of getting one dead pixel.


http://www.dell.com/support/troubleshooting/us/en/19/KCS/KcsArticles/ArticleView?c=&l=&s=&docid=414288

that is a big negative buddy. Dell allows a certain amount of defect also.
Quote:


> During LCD manufacturing process, it is not uncommon for one or more sub-pixels to become fixed in an unchanging state. A display with 1 to 5 fixed sub-pixel is considered normal and within industry standards.


that is part of the reason I never spent the 630$ on a dell UH27 or whatever the model number is.

They offer no better guarantee than the koreans.


----------



## thehidecheck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> I know what you are saying, but manufacturers like dell would consider even one dead pixel to be defect where in this case, it would not be. I found one korean IPS monitor that guarantees ZERO dead pixel but nothing on the PLS can offer zero dead pixel. I would prefer not to take the risk of getting one dead pixel.


More than anything, you lose the security of being able to rma a defective monitor. Based completely on my entirely biased experiences, these korean ips's aren't shipping with any more dead pixels as compared to a monoprice or a dell.

If I might further elaborate on dead pixel experiences, a few dead pixels does not subjectively ruin your monitor. In fact, for games and movies, they are hardly noticeable. I believe the value of dead pixels are highly over estimated. Given the choice between a solid 1080p ips 27" or a 1440p ips 27" with a few dead pixels, I'd pick the 1440p in an instant.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> http://www.dell.com/support/troubleshooting/us/en/19/KCS/KcsArticles/ArticleView?c=&l=&s=&docid=414288
> 
> that is a big negative buddy. Dell allows a certain amount of defect also.
> that is part of the reason I never spent the 630$ on a dell UH27 or whatever the model number is.
> 
> They offer no better guarantee than the koreans.


http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-u2410/pd

Bottom of the page, premium panel warranty.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thehidecheck*
> 
> More than anything, you lose the security of being able to rma a defective monitor. Based completely on my entirely biased experiences, these korean ips's aren't shipping with any more dead pixels as compared to a monoprice or a dell.
> 
> If I might further elaborate on dead pixel experiences, a few dead pixels does not subjectively ruin your monitor. In fact, for games and movies, they are hardly noticeable. I believe the value of dead pixels are highly over estimated. Given the choice between a solid 1080p ips 27" or a 1440p ips 27" with a few dead pixels, I'd pick the 1440p in an instant.


Personally preferences. Sorry


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-u2410/pd
> 
> Bottom of the page, premium panel warranty.


Right, that is a pixel that is stuck 'white' if you get ones that are stuck 'black' they allow a certain number of those. So like I said, dell does not guarantee it would be 100% perfect.

So Really the dell offers nothing better than a very nice stand, Same stand that comes on my U2312HM 1080p monitor.

Good thing you can replace the stand completely for $30 with a fully adjustable vesa wall/desk mount stand.

Then consider you can overclock to 96 hz easily and usually 110hz and some times 120hz with the qnix and it only costs ~300$ makes the dell look like a pretty bad purchase *IMO.*

Don't get me wrong dell makes nice monitors I love my 2312 but if I could do it again i'd have just spent $100 more and bought a second 1440p instead


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> I know what you are saying, but manufacturers like dell would consider even one dead pixel to be defect where in this case, it would not be. I found one korean IPS monitor that guarantees ZERO dead pixel but nothing on the PLS can offer zero dead pixel. I would prefer not to take the risk of getting one dead pixel.


This monitor is basically getting the functionality of overclocking (96~120Hz), 1440p, and PLS panel quality at a price MUCH LOWER than most monitors that only have 1 or 2 of these qualities.

You take a risk, but that's part of getting those 4 rewards.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> This monitor is basically getting the functionality of overclocking (96~120Hz), 1440p, and PLS panel quality at a price MUCH LOWER than most monitors that only have 1 or 2 of these qualities.
> 
> You take a risk, but that's part of getting those 4 rewards.


Are the PLS superior to the normal IPS panels? I am assuming they are true 8 bit not dithered right? And would a 29 inch 2560 x 1080 be comparable to it?

Off topic: is your profile pic from steins gate?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I've owned both IPS and PLS and I think they are pretty similar, I couldn't say one looked nicer than the other. Again it all comes down imo to the ability to overclock it if that matters to you.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I've owned both IPS and PLS and I think they are pretty similar, I couldn't say one looked nicer than the other. Again it all comes down imo to the ability to overclock it if that matters to you.


Ever had any experience with the high end dell lines?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Ever had any experience with the high end dell lines?


such as Dell UltraSharp U2713HM 27" ?

No like I said I just have a dell 2312HM nothing special.

What I do know however is that the U2713HM uses the exact same IPS panel as the korean IPS monitors, I had a crossover 27QW briefly and it was a very nice looking picture. All the IPS is made by LG all PLS is made by samsung.

The only difference is the "grading" of the panel. Supposedly the dells are higher graded panels but that in no way means that you will get a dell without dark dead pixels on it which their policy that I linked earlier allows a certain number of.

So you could spend 600$+ on a dell and end up with bad pixels and buy a korean IPS for $300 and end up with less/none it is all luck of the draw.

I guess the only thing is if you made enough noise about it maybe dell would let you exchange it. Who knows.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> such as Dell UltraSharp U2713HM 27" ?
> 
> No like I said I just have a dell 2312HM nothing special.
> 
> What I do know however is that the U2713HM uses the exact same IPS panel as the korean IPS monitors, I had a crossover 27QW briefly and it was a very nice looking picture. All the IPS is made by LG all PLS is made by samsung.
> 
> The only difference is the "grading" of the panel. Supposedly the dells are higher graded panels but that in no way means that you will get a dell without dark dead pixels on it which their policy that I linked earlier allows a certain number of.
> 
> So you could spend 600$+ on a dell and end up with bad pixels and buy a korean IPS for $300 and end up with less/none it is all luck of the draw.
> 
> I guess the only thing is if you made enough noise about it maybe dell would let you exchange it. Who knows.


I see. I want see how much I am losing in terms of color quality to the PLS.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> I see. I want see how much I am losing in terms of color quality to the PLS.


I really think they are pretty comparable. I've seen somewhere that people think IPS has a bit nicer colors but PLS has better black level.

I could have that backwards though, Do some research on the net I guess. Like I said I've had both and like them both.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Are the PLS superior to the normal IPS panels? I am assuming they are true 8 bit not dithered right? And would a 29 inch 2560 x 1080 be comparable to it?
> 
> Off topic: is your profile pic from steins gate?


I assume it's similar to the colors of the 6-bit S-IPS monitors that HP/Dell use. I'll be getting my Qnix tomorrow and I can compare it to my HP ZR22w's.

I wouldn't go for the ultra-wide res, I hate my Eyefinity setup in Landscape, as it is just way too wide and short. Hence why I always have it as Portrait.

Yes, it is a photo I took of the Kurisu 1/8 scale figma my gf bought for me.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I really think they are pretty comparable. I've seen somewhere that people think IPS has a bit nicer colors but PLS has better black level.
> 
> I could have that backwards though, Do some research on the net I guess. Like I said I've had both and like them both.


So it seems PLS is pretty much samsung's version of eIPS, which is the cheapest IPS panels with lower quality and using 6 bit to dither to 8 bit. So the PLS might not be true 8 bit monitors.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> So it seems PLS is pretty much samsung's version of eIPS, which is the cheapest IPS panels with lower quality and using 6 bit to dither to 8 bit. So the PLS might not be true 8 bit monitors.


I don't know which version of IPS they are based off, but yes they basically changed some stuff from IPS because they didn't want to pay LG anything. I know they are advertised as 8 bit just like IPS.

I don't know if that is somehow a lie. I know that PLS looks perfectly good to me, I Certainly wouldn't pay double for a dell IPS vs a korean PLS. You may feel differently.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't know which version of IPS they are based off, but yes they basically changed some stuff from IPS because they didn't want to pay LG anything. I know they are advertised as 8 bit just like IPS.
> 
> I don't know if that is somehow a lie. I know that PLS looks perfectly good to me, I Certainly wouldn't pay double for a dell IPS vs a korean PLS. You may feel differently.


The thing about 120hz is that is not worth it to me. I will need to 2 titans to drive it up, I can probably only afford one. It will be a useless gimmick for me.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> The thing about 120hz is that is not worth it to me. I will need to 2 titans to drive it up, I can probably only afford one. It will be a useless gimmick for me.


The only game so far i've bothered to actually play with the monitor overclocked is Bf3 multiplayer. Seems like i'd rather have the quickest reaction possible for online and sacrifice settings.

That being said I get 100-150 fps all the time with my two 7950's on low @ 1440p.

Single player games I will likely play on ultra @ 1440p and get over 60fps.

You can get two 7950's for around $400 now and totally spank a 780 @ 1440p

And if you aren't interested in overclocking the monitor than a qnix probably isn't for you. Get a crossover or an achevia IPS monitor then, they have no backlight bleed issues like the qnix can have.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> The only game so far i've bothered to actually play with the monitor overclocked is Bf3 multiplayer. Seems like i'd rather have the quickest reaction possible for online and sacrifice settings.
> 
> That being said I get 100-150 fps all the time with my two 7950's on *low* @ 1440p.
> 
> Single player games I will likely play on ultra @ 1440p and get over 60fps.
> 
> You can get two 7950's for around $400 now and totally spank a 780 @ 1440p
> 
> And if you aren't interested in overclocking the monitor than a qnix probably isn't for you. Get a crossover or an achevia IPS monitor then, they have no backlight bleed issues like the qnix can have.


Yeah, I am not running this low. Alright, I think I might just go for the U2913WM on craigslist or go for a dell or something. Maybe go for tri U2410 since I already have one.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I assume it's similar to the colors of the 6-bit S-IPS monitors that HP/Dell use. I'll be getting my Qnix tomorrow and I can compare it to my HP ZR22w's.
> 
> I wouldn't go for the ultra-wide res, I hate my Eyefinity setup in Landscape, as it is just way too wide and short. Hence why I always have it as Portrait.
> 
> Yes, it is a photo I took of the Kurisu 1/8 scale figma my gf bought for me.


Cool. Thanks for confirming it is a 6 bit dithering. I definitely will not purchase one then.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Cool. Thanks for confirming it is a 6 bit dithering. I definitely will not purchase one then.


I don't think he really confirmed anything..... note the word assume.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't think he really confirmed anything..... note the word assume.


Point. Still, all evidents lead to a 6 bit dithered to 8 bit.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Are the PLS superior to the normal IPS panels? I am assuming they are true 8 bit not dithered right? And would a 29 inch 2560 x 1080 be comparable to it?
> 
> Off topic: is your profile pic from steins gate?


They are both very similar when comparing brighter images. PLS does better with dark images since its blacks are lower, but gamma also shifts so the whole picture is darker - so overall contrast is almost the same. I find the PLS to be harder to calibrate (without your own hardware) since everyones panel overclocks alittle differently - the gamma shift on my 120hz might be different than yours. So if we use someones shared icc profile - it could look quite different.

Luckily for me i have a calibrated panel beside it so i can tweak and get them looking identical, at least visually.

a 29" 2560x1080p would not be compatible as the pixel pitch on that monitor will be waaaay less denser, it look pretty crappy comparatively imo. For example the Dell 2913WM has a pixel pitch of 0.09 (H) mm x 0.26 (V) mm

Using this website http://members.ping.de/~sven/dpi.html - it caculates [email protected]" is 0.2651mm while a 27" 2560x1440 would be 0.2335mm

I couldnt find any posted pixel pitch of 2560x1440p QNIX







im sure you can dig deeper


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> They are both very similar when comparing brighter images. PLS does better with dark images since its blacks are lower, but gamma also shifts so the whole picture is darker - so overall contrast is almost the same. I find the PLS to be harder to calibrate (without your own hardware) since everyones panel overclocks alittle differently - the gamma shift on my 120hz might be different than yours. So if we use someones shared icc profile - it could look quite different.
> 
> Luckily for me i have a calibrated panel beside it so i can tweak and get them looking identical, at least visually.
> 
> a 29" 2560x1080p would not be compatible as the pixel pitch on that monitor will be waaaay less denser, it look pretty crappy comparatively imo. For example the Dell 2913WM has a pixel pitch of 0.09 (H) mm x 0.26 (V) mm
> 
> Using this website http://members.ping.de/~sven/dpi.html - it caculates [email protected]" is 0.2651mm while a 27" 2560x1440 would be 0.2335mm
> 
> I couldnt find any posted pixel pitch of 2560x1440p QNIX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im sure you can dig deeper


I know about the ICC thing. Without a calibrator, the ICC profile from another monitor is completely useless. Hmm so my U2410 currently have 0.27ishm pixel pitch. Interesting. I might end up spending more on a U2711, but I have yet to seen a reasonable priced one available for purchase.


----------



## Nikola-Tesla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Well i am not sure if anyone is interested but here is my settings for downsampling the Qnix to 4K. I have been PMing back and forth with another member trying to optimize this to try and get 4K at as high of a refresh as possible. So far i can only get 55hz but the other member has been able to get 60hz. His timings don't work for me but mine are a bit more tight so he may get higher once he gets back to me. The goal for me is to get [email protected] downsampled(may not be possible but it is a good number to shoot for).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This will be most usefull for people who want the highest detail possible with even sacrificing the high refresh. Many people think 72hz is a big leap from 60hz and many can't see a big difference from 96hz to 120hz(not counting lightboost as the Qnix does not have it). I have played several games with the 4K downsample and i can really say it does help a lot(especially with older games). Also many games that are not FPS or very reaction skill based would benefit more from the mass increased detail and sharpness. I played some Skyrim at [email protected] and then [email protected] and really there was not a major difference(may be due to the games somewhat poor coding). I then applied the downsample and played [email protected] The increased detail and clarity is not night and day but is definitely worth noting. Other games like civilization were benefited greatly by the increased map scope or screen real estate.
> 
> I welcome any other members interested in this to try it out and share their settings. The higher the refresh @ 4K the better. Any higher downsample than 4K is a bit more of a bragging right but i would still be interested to see it. My current highest downsample is [email protected](48hz interlaced). I find this to be the one other form of overclocking that has not been explored to much here so it would be great to at least get some good research behind it.
> 
> Happy overclocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I would also like to note if you do not get to 60hz and only get something like 55~58hz then it will not be a standard refresh per your EDID(so it will not show up in games). Normally many downsampling people will tell you to manually hack the EDID to include the odd refresh but you can also add a native offset refresh to CRU. For example if your 4K downsample is 57hz and it does not show up in games then add a custome resolution in CRU for [email protected] This is an in-direct way of "hacking" the EDID(which i find MUCH easier as it is like 6 steps instead of two more applications and 36 steps). After there is a native resolution with that refresh windows will now see it as a standard refresh thus displaying it in games and the windows resolution selector and displaying it for all intermediary resolutions(including your 4K downsample).


This convinced me to buy one.
Downsampling is not for every game, but it works wonders with complex trees, grass and resolution-dependent LOD.

+rep and keep up the good work


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Yeah, I am not running this low. Alright, I think I might just go for the U2913WM on craigslist or go for a dell or something. Maybe go for tri U2410 since I already have one.


yeah it occured to me something must be wrong and I figured out that the ULPS power saving setting had been turned back on somehow, turned it off and was getting 90-130+ fps on ultra w/ no msaa. So overclocking to 110+hz is a def win with my setup.

Point is you don't need 2k worth of gpu's to push 1440p @ 120hz I have 400 worth of gpus


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Point. Still, all evidents lead to a 6 bit dithered to 8 bit.


These panels are 8bit panels. Please look up the samsung panel as the specs are the same. What evidence are you even referring to?

EDIT: Taken from the OP: http://www.datadisplay-group.com/fileadmin/pdf/produkte/Displays/Samsung/LTM270DL02_Datasheet.pdf
Please see "true 8 bit display" on the forth page.

People should really start reading the OP before spreading mis-information.


----------



## Kwkevinlin

A question about connecting XBOXs. The only way to use the Qnix with a Xbox is to buy the HDMI version. However, that version is more expensive and not overclockable.

What are some other solutions that could connect the Xbox the dual DVI Qnix? Like a TV box that outputs dual DVI?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> So it seems PLS is pretty much samsung's version of eIPS, which is the cheapest IPS panels with lower quality and using 6 bit to dither to 8 bit. So the PLS might not be true 8 bit monitors.


I don't know where your getting your assumptions from but you can google the panel used. It's a 8 bit pls banel which is used in the highest end $1200 + samsung monitor. I have owned a lot of different monitors in the last few months and this one smashes the rest by far. As far as ips vs pls is concerned the ips panels usually are brighter, with less pop but more accuracy to colors, and worse black levels, obviously in contrasy you are getting better blacks, colors with more pop but less accurate (slightly over saturated) and slightly lower brightness. With the asus pb278q i owned (2560x1440p pls panel) i did definitely notice the lower brightness and the black crush i had was unacceptable at any brightness setting. With this i don't see that at all at any brightness setting, i have it calibrated using the spyder elite 3.

So you say you know about icc profiles well the only downside of this panel vs a ips would be slightly over saturated colors (which a lot of people prefer hence samsungs popularity with hdtv's) which can be fixed by calibrating your qnix. You are right in saying someone elses profile might not help, but as you say every panel is different, even every dell will be different and you might get one that you personally think is worse or you might get one that you personally think is better than a qnix, no one can decide for you, but to say "So it seems PLS is pretty much samsung's version of eIPS, which is the cheapest IPS panels with lower quality and using 6 bit to dither to 8 bit. So the PLS might not be true 8 bit monitors" is just wrong.


----------



## dante`afk

I`m seeing an odd behavior since I got the Qnix


If powering off the screen, it goes dark but still is bright, so it is like dark with light behind it. I have to wait a couple of minutes until it gets really shut down.

The color/brightness/contrast correction in the Nvidia CP seem to reset from time to time, I have to go back into the CP and click quick on "use application control settings" and back on "use nvidia settings".

Does anyone else has this?


----------



## TrptJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> I have a question that might seem stupid to some, but why are the normal overclock numbers people use are 96, 110, and 120hz? Why not 104, or 115, or some other number? Is there some common denominator that I am not seeing in the three?


The reason I do so is to keep the refresh rate at a multiple of 24Hz so that 24fps movies are displayed as they were intended, avoiding the slight stutter from the use of pulldown.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kwkevinlin*
> 
> A question about connecting XBOXs. The only way to use the Qnix with a Xbox is to buy the HDMI version. However, that version is more expensive and not overclockable.
> 
> What are some other solutions that could connect the Xbox the dual DVI Qnix? Like a TV box that outputs dual DVI?


I don't think there is any way because the monitor does not have a built in scalar.

You basically have to choose between if you want overclockability or ability to connect a console. It looks like the CrossOver BlackTune 2763AMG supports consoles though.


----------



## Kokin

There is proof of the multi input version with DL-DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort overclocking but only through the DL-DVI port. See my posts a few pages back.

I was asking about this but no responses.


----------



## Kokin

There is proof of the multi input version with DL-DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort overclocking but only through the DL-DVI port. See my posts a few pages back.

I was asking about this but no responses.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> There is proof of the multi input version with DL-DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort overclocking but only through the DL-DVI port. See my posts a few pages back.
> 
> I was asking about this but no responses.


I am not sure why people repeatedly say the multi-input version does not overclock. I myself have never seen evidence that it didn't so i am not sure where many have gotten this info. Honestly though, having the scaler's input lag(which is it is the same one in other korean monitors the input lag caused will be high) it makes it not worth it. The resulting motion blur would out-weigh any increase in refresh(in my opinion). Not sure why no one else replied or why you double posted this(technically triple counting the repost).

Also i found this on 120hz.net and thought it might be nice to post here. Pretty much the same mod i did to mine except i did not do the fans(the heatsink is more than enough and doesn't require cutting).



http://imgur.com/IRS2C


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am not sure why people repeatedly say the multi-input version does not overclock. I myself have never seen evidence that it didn't so i am not sure where many have gotten this info. Honestly though, having the scaler's input lag(which is it is the same one in other korean monitors the input lag caused will be high) it makes it not worth it. The resulting motion blur would out-weigh any increase in refresh(in my opinion). Not sure why no one else replied or why you double posted this(technically triple counting the repost).
> 
> Also i found this on 120hz.net and thought it might be nice to post here. Pretty much the same mod i did to mine except i did not do the fans(the heatsink is more than enough and doesn't require cutting).
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/IRS2C


Whats the point of that if it isn't over heating?


----------



## jojoenglish85

I hate to say it but as it stands now, i have an Shinmian on the way just got my XSTAR in and have owned my Overlord Tempest for over a year now. The XSTAR is very vibrant, the colors are much better than the Overlord in my opinion. The reason being is because looks like the Overlord doesn't use a true white led, its coated blue, so no matter what you do, you can not change the blue hue you see, no matter what you do. I can get both monitors close but i can't get them exact. Im considering getting two more and selling off the Overlord and Shinmian. The overlord looks fat next to the XSTAR as well. I ended up getting a pixel perfect with minimal light bleed from Dreamsellers if anyone cares.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> I hate to say it but as it stands now, i have an Shinmian on the way just got my XSTAR in and have owned my Overlord Tempest for over a year now. The XSTAR is very vibrant, the colors are much better than the Overlord in my opinion. The reason being is because looks like the Overlord doesn't use a true white led, its coated blue, so no matter what you do, you can not change the blue hue you see, no matter what you do. I can get both monitors close but i can't get them exact. Im considering getting two more and selling off the Overlord and Shinmian. The overlord looks fat next to the XSTAR as well. I ended up getting a pixel perfect with minimal light bleed from Dreamsellers if anyone cares.


You could always remove tints with software calibration although there is a loss in the color palette (little impact on consumer use and hardly noticeable if not using the monitor for color-accurate work). You would need a colorimeter.

The Spyder4Express package sells for ~$100 and gives you (as all I've seen leads me to believe) the same sensor as the higher-end packages (Pro, Elite) sans the ambient light sensor and the more advanced software. Coupled with free software like HCFR or ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI, you've got yourself a pretty good calibration. Is weak at measuring black level though.

At $170, the Colormunki Display which (seems to) uses a similar sensor to the i1 Display Pro (colorimeter!) but lacks support in 3rd-party color apps (SDK was never released).

At $250, the (reference) i1DP is excellent for the price.

You will never be able to get two monitors (especially different models) to look exactly the same without sacrificing quality for at least one of them.

On a sidenote, bluish tints are not necessarily from the White LED backlight. Blue errors are the least noticeable so they could slip as inaccuracy into panels. Green, then Red, errors are the most noticeable so those have a smaller tolerance.

These PLS panels seem to have either pure whites or a yellow tint to them. Smaller variance than the S-IPS panels on the other Korean monitors (not necessarily all).

Mine has that yellow tint, corrected it with a Spyder4 at 60Hz, 96Hz, 110Hz. I will make those ICC profiles available soon.

P.S.: RIP English, lack of sleep does that to me.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Whats the point of that if it isn't over heating?


Life span. If you run higher than normal refresh than you produce more heat by the resulting data rate that is processed. The panel may not be overheating outright but it is operating at a higher than normal temp. Just the same as you would buy a better heatsink for a CPU or GPU that is overclocked even if it can run the overclock at some ridiculous temp(like 60 C for AMD or like 80 for intel) you generally want it to run at a lower operating temp so it doesn't potentially die in 2 years.


----------



## larrytek7

Thinking about pulling the trigger on two X-Star DP2710 one with DVI only and another with DVI, VGA & HDMI. I have a Windows 7 box with a GTX660 and a MacBook Pro Retina 15". I would also buy a dual link dvi KVM and two thunderbolt to dual link adapters for my MacBook. Any gaming I do on my Windows 7 box would be through the dual link DVI. Regarding hooking up the second monitor to Windows 7, will HDMI work at 2560x1440 to my GTX660 as long as I buy a HDMI 1.4 cable?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am not sure why people repeatedly say the multi-input version does not overclock. I myself have never seen evidence that it didn't so i am not sure where many have gotten this info.


I believe this is/was the case with (some) of the IPS offerings? And it stood to reason that the scaler would increase input lag or otherwise somehow render the PCB unable to hit higher pixel clocks. Though, yeah, apparently just speculation and too much of it.


----------



## Darkshowdo

Okay... I took the plunge and bought the Qnix QX2710,

Pretty excited about this. Really want to feel how the 1440p gaming feel at 90+hz

Anyone know a lifespan on these qnix with OC?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> Okay... I took the plunge and bought the Qnix QX2710,
> 
> Pretty excited about this. Really want to feel how the 1440p gaming feel at 90+hz
> 
> Anyone know a lifespan on these qnix with OC?


Nope. But it doesn't look like to many of the korean models have broken down just yet if you check these poll results. If it works when you get it, then it's probz going to be alright, although over clocking has caused people some issues recently.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1430315/how-are-the-korean-monitors-holding-up


----------



## Darkshowdo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Nope. But it doesn't look like to many of the korean models have broken down just yet if you check these poll results. If it works when you get it, then it's probz going to be alright, although over clocking has caused people some issues recently.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1430315/how-are-the-korean-monitors-holding-up


Good to know,

Think i may just leave it at 60hz for a little to i get adjusted to it.
Then maybe look further into it.

Just so im correct from what i have been seeing on videos and other places.
Loosening the 4 screws at the bottom can make the light bleed it less noticeable?


----------



## mrsus

Got mine when this thread was around 20 post ( so april maybe ) and working perfectly at 96 mhz without any problem.


----------



## Kokin

*Anyone trying to connect a Qnix/X-Star DL-DVI to a Mac requires an active DL-DVI to mini-DP adapter.* The person I bought this Qnix from had it working with a Mac and showed it to me in person. His adapter needed to be powered by a USB cable, so it was definitely an active adapter. (Please add to FAQ section in OP)

Well I just setup my Qnix and comparing it to my HP ZR22w (non-LED 6-bit S-IPS) and HP ZR2240w (LED 6-bit S-IPS) they are all almost the same in terms of panel/ color quality.

In terms of build quality, the HP monitors rock due to being the entry-level professional-grade monitors that they are. Everyone wasn't kidding about the crappy build quality of the Qnix. Not only does it move around when I'm typing on my keyboard, it is slightly leaning towards the right side, so it is off by about 10~15 degrees (not really acceptable).

Fortunately for me, my seller gave me a desk arm mount and I plan to use the arm for my HP ZR2240w and the coveted HP stand for the Qnix.








I will be testing out for BLB, dead pixels, and of course overclocking.









Below are my thoughts about comparing the Qnix to my HP ZR22w and HP ZR2240w.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



The Qnix is very vibrant in colors and almost makes my IPS monitors look washed out. It has a higher saturation in colors and has a slight reddish tint to the colors (possibly the LED itself).

My HP ZR22w has the most natural colors, though it has a very slight blue/cool tint to them and makes things look softer. My guess is that the fluorescent lighting doesn't have such an aggressive red tint (LEDs tent to have a reddish tint to their lighting, which make LED whites "pop out" more).

My HP ZR2240w is very reddish compared to both and most likely needs a better color profile. However, the colors match very closely to the Qnix except that the blues are being affected by the red tint.

It is easier to spot details on my HP monitors as their colors aren't as vibrant as the Qnix, so this is one downside of the Qnix. While the vibrant colors make the Qnix more appealing to look at, the natural colors of the HP ZR22w would be better if it were to be used for photography/graphics design/etc.

For blacks, all 3 are excellent, though the cooler-tinted HP ZR22w makes it look like it has a darker black.



What's the best part? I got my used (2-months) Qnix for *$180*, though I had to drive about 2 hours one-way (4 hours total) to get such a deal.

Edit: Almost no BLB detected! There's just a slight bleed toward the upper-right top side, but it's so faint that it might just be IPS/PLS glow.

No dead pixels!









120Hz with 459Mhz settings done!


----------



## tangosmango

I just recently got my X-star. I'm trying to test with 120hz and it only works when I have my X-star enabled, but once I enable my other monitor (an old 21" 60hz), it starts giving 'Poor performance' errors in testufo.com

System:
4 gigs of RAM
4670k stock
Gigabyte GTX 770

Any ideas?

EDIT: Did a little more fiddling around. When I have both monitors enabled, I'm getting a max refresh rate of 60hz. Also, when I try to overclock to 144hz, I get blue/red/greens lines.


----------



## hutt132

I get bad (coil?) whine coming from my QX2710 when there's high FPS in games such as loading screens and Minecraft at 120Hz. Does anyone have a fix for this?


----------



## mboner1

Hey guys, i'm getting a horizontal flash across my screen every now and again when i scroll the mouse up and down, it's happening 3 or 4 times a day, nothing major just wondering if it's to do with timings and if i could fix it?? Or even is it likely to get worse???


----------



## Testier

I think I am going with an OCN's member's U2711. Probably very low hassles and trustworthy sale. Just a little too expensive, but aha well, you got pay for a quality product. It seems just too many risks and uncertainty involved in the ebay monitors. I am really curious for a comparison of korean monitors vs dell/apple "prosumer" monitors. In terms of color quality and accuracy. When both are calibrate, just for curiosity's sake. Also, thanks again for informing me the fact that PLS panels are not real 8 bits and are just substandard panels like the e-IPS. Though 120hz are nice.... but I generally suck enough in games anyways......


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> I think I am going with an OCN's member's U2711. Probably very low hassles and trustworthy sale. Just a little too expensive, but aha well, you got pay for a quality product. It seems just too many risks and uncertainty involved in the ebay monitors. I am really curious for a comparison of korean monitors vs dell/apple "prosumer" monitors. In terms of color quality and accuracy. When both are calibrate, just for curiosity's sake. Also, thanks again for informing me the fact that PLS panels are not real 8 bits and are just substandard panels like the e-IPS. Though 120hz are nice.... but I generally suck enough in games anyways......


See my post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Below are my thoughts about comparing the Qnix to my HP ZR22w and HP ZR2240w.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The Qnix is very vibrant in colors and almost makes my IPS monitors look washed out. It has a higher saturation in colors and has a slight reddish tint to the colors (possibly the LED itself).
> 
> My HP ZR22w has the most natural colors, though it has a very slight blue/cool tint to them and makes things look softer. My guess is that the fluorescent lighting doesn't have such an aggressive red tint (LEDs tent to have a reddish tint to their lighting, which make LED whites "pop out" more).
> 
> My HP ZR2240w is very reddish compared to both and most likely needs a better color profile. However, the colors match very closely to the Qnix except that the blues are being affected by the red tint.
> 
> It is easier to spot details on my HP monitors as their colors aren't as vibrant as the Qnix, so this is one downside of the Qnix. While the vibrant colors make the Qnix more appealing to look at, the natural colors of the HP ZR22w would be better if it were to be used for photography/graphics design/etc.
> 
> For blacks, all 3 are excellent, though the cooler-tinted HP ZR22w makes it look like it has a darker black.


It's probably best you go for a definite working product.

I took a 4-hr drive and $180 risk, but I already knew it was guaranteed no dead pixels from my seller. The monitor getting no/little BLB and overclocking to 120Hz was icing on the cake. 120Hz is definitely noticeable, but it really isn't necessary outside of FPS games.

The Qnix is definitely a beautiful monitor and I'm already liking it over my HP IPS Eyefinity setup. 27" is the perfect size for me considering my Eyefinity setup is similar to a 40" monitor/TV.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> I think I am going with an OCN's member's U2711. Probably very low hassles and trustworthy sale. Just a little too expensive, but aha well, you got pay for a quality product. It seems just too many risks and uncertainty involved in the ebay monitors. I am really curious for a comparison of korean monitors vs dell/apple "prosumer" monitors. In terms of color quality and accuracy. When both are calibrate, just for curiosity's sake. Also, thanks again for informing me the fact that PLS panels are not real 8 bits and are just substandard panels like the e-IPS. Though 120hz are nice.... but I generally suck enough in games anyways......


One more time for those in the cheap seats...

I don't know where your getting your assumptions from but you can google the panel used. It's a 8 bit pls banel which is used in the highest end $1200 + samsung monitor. I have owned a lot of different monitors in the last few months and this one smashes the rest by far. As far as ips vs pls is concerned the ips panels usually are brighter, with less pop but more accuracy to colors, and worse black levels, obviously in contrast you are getting better blacks, colors with more pop but less accurate (slightly over saturated) and slightly lower brightness. With the asus pb278q i owned (2560x1440p pls panel) i did definitely notice the lower brightness and the black crush i had was unacceptable at any brightness setting. With this i don't see that at all at any brightness setting, i have it calibrated using the spyder elite 3.

So you say you know about icc profiles well the only downside of this panel vs a ips would be slightly over saturated colors (which a lot of people prefer hence samsungs popularity with hdtv's) which can be fixed by calibrating your qnix. You are right in saying someone elses profile might not help, but as you say every panel is different, even every dell will be different and you might get one that you personally think is worse or you might get one that you personally think is better than a qnix, no one can decide for you, but to say "So it seems PLS is pretty much samsung's version of eIPS, which is the cheapest IPS panels with lower quality and using 6 bit to dither to 8 bit. So the PLS might not be true 8 bit monitors" is just wrong.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> One more time for those in the cheap seats...
> 
> I don't know where your getting your assumptions from but you can google the panel used. It's a 8 bit pls banel which is used in the highest end $1200 + samsung monitor. I have owned a lot of different monitors in the last few months and this one smashes the rest by far. As far as ips vs pls is concerned the ips panels usually are brighter, with less pop but more accuracy to colors, and worse black levels, obviously in contrasy you are getting better blacks, colors with more pop but less accurate (slightly over saturated) and slightly lower brightness. With the asus pb278q i owned (2560x1440p pls panel) i did definitely notice the lower brightness and the black crush i had was unacceptable at any brightness setting. With this i don't see that at all at any brightness setting, i have it calibrated using the spyder elite 3.
> 
> So you say you know about icc profiles well the only downside of this panel vs a ips would be slightly over saturated colors (which a lot of people prefer hence samsungs popularity with hdtv's) which can be fixed by calibrating your qnix. You are right in saying someone elses profile might not help, but as you say every panel is different, even every dell will be different and you might get one that you personally think is worse or you might get one that you personally think is better than a qnix, no one can decide for you, but to say "So it seems PLS is pretty much samsung's version of eIPS, which is the cheapest IPS panels with lower quality and using 6 bit to dither to 8 bit. So the PLS might not be true 8 bit monitors" is just wrong.


----------



## tkotter

I could really use some convincing here. Right now my current monitor is a 20" 1600x900 Asus monitor







(I know, I know. I'm upgrading my GPU to a 280x and I desperately need to upgrade my monitor. I'm not sure if I should upgrade to a 23" 1080p monitor for around $150ish or just go all out and get a QNIX/X-STAR(leaning towards the X-STAR but still not sure which I would choose).

So deep down I think I want to go for the 1440p monitor and shell out the extra cash, I just need a little extra push to hit that "Submit Order" button. Can anyone else that was in my situation or anyone in general help?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkotter*
> 
> I could really use some convincing here. Right now my current monitor is a 20" 1600x900 Asus monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I know, I know. I'm upgrading my GPU to a 280x and I desperately need to upgrade my monitor. I'm not sure if I should upgrade to a 23" 1080p monitor for around $150ish or just go all out and get a QNIX/X-STAR(leaning towards the X-STAR but still not sure which I would choose).
> 
> So deep down I think I want to go for the 1440p monitor and shell out the extra cash, I just need a little extra push to hit that "Submit Order" button. Can anyone else that was in my situation or anyone in general help?


push the button a 280x @ 1080p is a waste

Also guys It seems I just cant hit 120hz (can hit 110 no problem with 420mhz clock) is it likely my monitor PCB, gfx card or the wire it comes with? I guess my first option is switch my xfire setup around and see if it will do 120hz with the other card if not. Buy the 24 gauge mono price wire?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> I think I am going with an OCN's member's U2711. Probably very low hassles and trustworthy sale. Just a little too expensive, but aha well, you got pay for a quality product. It seems just too many risks and uncertainty involved in the ebay monitors. I am really curious for a comparison of korean monitors vs dell/apple "prosumer" monitors. In terms of color quality and accuracy. When both are calibrate, just for curiosity's sake. Also, thanks again for informing me the fact that PLS panels are not real 8 bits and are just substandard panels like the e-IPS. Though 120hz are nice.... but I generally suck enough in games anyways......


I have gone gone back and checked every post that was somewhat after or a direct reply to you and no one at any point said ANYTHING that could be even interpreted or indicated as a confirmation or even hint that these were somehow a 6bit panel(WHICH IS COMPLETELY FALSE).

What i did find is several members(including me) telling you it was most definitely proven to be a true 8bit panel. Now i just want anyone who sees these posts and then sees the later resulting reply from this person and think about the credibility here. Interestingly enough if you go to any credible review site(including this one) many very reputable testers will tell you PLS is VERY comparable in quality to AH-IPS which is the best version of IPS currently out.

I said it once and i will say it again, Please keep mis-information to yourself if you insist on believing it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> push the button a 280x @ 1080p is a waste
> 
> Also guys It seems I just cant hit 120hz (can hit 110 no problem with 420mhz clock) is it likely my monitor PCB, gfx card or the wire it comes with? I guess my first option is switch my xfire setup around and see if it will do 120hz with the other card if not. Buy the 24 gauge mono price wire?


Agreed about the 280x for 1080p

First what are your timings for 120hz? Also the wire length is generally more important than the gauge(but i would stick with at least 28AWG). I tried tons of cables and a 28AWG 3' cable ended up being the best by about 4hz(which was a cheap cable). Changing the xfire setup can help. My cards ports all have a 2-3hz difference between them.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have gone gone back and checked every post that was somewhat after or a direct reply to you and no one at any point said ANYTHING that could be even interpreted or indicated as a confirmation or even hint that these were somehow a 6bit panel(WHICH IS COMPLETELY FALSE).
> 
> What i did find is several members(including me) telling you it was most definitely proven to be a true 8bit panel. Now i just want anyone who sees these posts and then sees the later resulting reply from this person and think about the credibility here. Interestingly enough if you go to any credible review site(including this one) many very reputable testers will tell you PLS is VERY comparable in quality to AH-IPS which is the best version of IPS currently out.
> 
> I said it once and i will say it again, Please keep mis-information to yourself if you insist on believing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed about the 280x for 1080p
> 
> First what are your timings for 120hz? Also the wire length is generally more important than the gauge(but i would stick with at least 28AWG). I tried tons of cables and a 28AWG 3' cable ended up being the best by about 4hz(which was a cheap cable). Changing the xfire setup can help. My cards ports all have a 2-3hz difference between them.


Yeah I realized I can just disable xfire and try the second card like that. These are the timings I have been trying (they work great at 110hz but someone gave me them a few pages back for 120)

I have tried fiddling with them a bit changing front porch/back porch up and down and these numbers are the best (changing the porch's lower gives terrible pictures)but I still get horizontal thin green lines even with these settings.



edit: should be 48 instead of 42 was fiddling









edit2: Okay I just disabled xfire and plugged in to the second card 120hz *seems* to be working. is it likely to keep working if I swap cards and re-enable xfire?
Or would xfire in general be an issue.

edit3: Okay so I swapped card slots and re-enabled xfire and the green lines came back. Seems I can only do 120hz with one card which kind of makes it pointless for most things.

So it seems the limitation lies in Xfire, or one of my cards. Not the wire nor the monitor. Good to know. Maybe better timings would help? Idk


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> edit2: Okay I just disabled xfire and plugged in to the second card 120hz *seems* to be working. is it likely to keep working if I swap cards and re-enable xfire?
> Or would xfire in general be an issue.


I would try moving your second card that you got a stable refresh to the first slot of your motherboard and see if is that cards port that happens to have a bit better data rate. Originally my bottom card did clock better and i had to swap them and then i found out the bottom port of that card did the nest by about 2hz. Disabling SLI for me doesn't seem to help the overclock but xfire could be different. Also try going up little by little and testing games while you do it. If your can get within 5hz of 120 then you could always go on a cable hunt for the last little bit.


----------



## mboner1

deleted.


----------



## mboner1

Well i tried just copy and pasting the original 60hz profile and it worked with the 96hz but youtube videos get garbled, my pixel clock is only 380 as well, then i tried these settings..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*


youtube videos still get garbled, pixel clock goes down to 365.

I notice that soon as i install the patch without doing the over clock youtube videos just get a green screen, then with the over clock as i said it's all garbled and i need to hard reset. Can someone help??

Alright, so it only happens with youtube in firefox, in chrome it worked fine, i also got a error message from cru after it crashed from using youtube in firefox saying "preference.readprefs err=2, what=xmlexception, where=4, name=preferences.
Any ideas at all??


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I would try moving your second card that you got a stable refresh to the first slot of your motherboard and see if is that cards port that happens to have a bit better data rate. Originally my bottom card did clock better and i had to swap them and then i found out the bottom port of that card did the nest by about 2hz. Disabling SLI for me doesn't seem to help the overclock but xfire could be different. Also try going up little by little and testing games while you do it. If your can get within 5hz of 120 then you could always go on a cable hunt for the last little bit.


ya didn't work with either card setup in xfire. did work with single card. I think I had 117 working in xfire ill try that again. if so ill just live with it


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Well i tried just copy and pasting the original 60hz profile and it worked with the 96hz but youtube videos get garbled, my pixel clock is only 380 as well, then i tried these settings..
> youtube videos still get garbled, pixel clock goes down to 365, my horizontal clock might be too high, should i change that, think it's 185??
> 
> I notice that soon as i install the patch without doing the over clock youtube videos just get a green screen, then with the over clock as i said it's all garbled and i need to hard reset. Can someone help??
> 
> Alright, so it only happens with youtube in firefox, in chrome it worked fine, i also got a error message from cru after it crashed from using youtube in firefox saying "preference.readprefs err=2, what=xmlexception, where=4, name=preferences.
> Any ideas at all??


Well i don't know if anyone else has had this issue (??) but it happens in internet explorer as well, so it's obviously a adobe issue with the over clock, surely someone else must have experienced this??


----------



## mboner1

Same thing happens when i try and watch any downloaded videos or dvd's in my media player. 96hz has been real, but since no one seems to be able to help i will be heading back to 60. Peace!


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Same thing happens when i try and watch any downloaded videos or dvd's in my media player. 96hz has been real, but since no one seems to be able to help i will be heading back to 60. Peace!


it;s a know issue with the patch, read the OP of the patch for fixes


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> There is proof of the multi input version with DL-DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort overclocking but only through the DL-DVI port. See my posts a few pages back.
> 
> I was asking about this but no responses.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am not sure why people repeatedly say the multi-input version does not overclock. I myself have never seen evidence that it didn't so i am not sure where many have gotten this info. Honestly though, having the scaler's input lag(which is it is the same one in other korean monitors the input lag caused will be high) it makes it not worth it. The resulting motion blur would out-weigh any increase in refresh(in my opinion). Not sure why no one else replied or why you double posted this(technically triple counting the repost).
> 
> Also i found this on 120hz.net and thought it might be nice to post here. Pretty much the same mod i did to mine except i did not do the fans(the heatsink is more than enough and doesn't require cutting).
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/IRS2C


Concerning the Crossover "125hz" 2730MDP

"Overclocking" a U2713hm (people have thought it was possible, it is not)

Is that conclusive proof that the multi-input Qnix does not overclock? No, of course not. However, the absence of _affirmative_ confirmation that it does, and the abundance of evidence that multi-input monitors of other manufacturers do _not_ overclock points to the highly likely possibility that multi-input Qnixes do not overclock.

The only post I ever saw on the overclockability of "multi-input" monitors, in fact, was someone with a "normal" Qnix with a single-input model.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> No dead pixels!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 120Hz with 459Mhz settings done!


FYI, to validate an overclock, you need a photograph of your screen running the blur-busters test, not just a screenshot.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> it;s a know issue with the patch, read the OP of the patch for fixes


The only thing i can see is to disable hardware accelaration and i have already done that via ccc and by clicking on the youtube video. Any other suggestions i'm missing??


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> The only thing i can see is to disable hardware acceleration and i have already done that via ccc and by clicking on the youtube video. Any other suggestions i'm missing??


updates should be on par, but I had the same issue until I turned off accelerations and DVXA on nearly everything.
120hz 7970ghz, 13.11beta1 drivers.

the accelerations have to turned off on each software component, not in CCC.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> updates should be on par, but I had the same issue until I turned off accelerations and DVXA on nearly everything.
> 120hz 7970ghz, 13.11beta1 drivers.
> 
> the accelerations have to turned off on each software component, not in CCC.


Cheers man, just turned off all instances (4) of dvxa in in media player classic and that seems to have resolved the issue there, will try firefox again after i re install it. Going to have to calibrate again, picture looks a tad crappy now. I have 110hz with a pixel clock of 443, that's acceptable yeah??

I gave rep+ but hasn't added it yet for some reason


----------



## mboner1

anyone know how to remove the overclock completely??


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> anyone know how to remove the overclock completely??


reset-all.exe in the CRU zip, then reboot.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> *Anyone trying to connect a Qnix/X-Star DL-DVI to a Mac requires an active DL-DVI to mini-DP adapter.* The person I bought this Qnix from had it working with a Mac and showed it to me in person. His adapter needed to be powered by a USB cable, so it was definitely an active adapter. (Please add to FAQ section in OP)
> 
> Well I just setup my Qnix and comparing it to my HP ZR22w (non-LED 6-bit S-IPS) and HP ZR2240w (LED 6-bit S-IPS) they are all almost the same in terms of panel/ color quality.
> 
> In terms of build quality, the HP monitors rock due to being the entry-level professional-grade monitors that they are. Everyone wasn't kidding about the crappy build quality of the Qnix. Not only does it move around when I'm typing on my keyboard, it is slightly leaning towards the right side, so it is off by about 10~15 degrees (not really acceptable).
> 
> Fortunately for me, my seller gave me a desk arm mount and I plan to use the arm for my HP ZR2240w and the coveted HP stand for the Qnix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be testing out for BLB, dead pixels, and of course overclocking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are my thoughts about comparing the Qnix to my HP ZR22w and HP ZR2240w.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The Qnix is very vibrant in colors and almost makes my IPS monitors look washed out. It has a higher saturation in colors and has a slight reddish tint to the colors (possibly the LED itself).
> 
> My HP ZR22w has the most natural colors, though it has a very slight blue/cool tint to them and makes things look softer. My guess is that the fluorescent lighting doesn't have such an aggressive red tint (LEDs tent to have a reddish tint to their lighting, which make LED whites "pop out" more).
> 
> My HP ZR2240w is very reddish compared to both and most likely needs a better color profile. However, the colors match very closely to the Qnix except that the blues are being affected by the red tint.
> 
> It is easier to spot details on my HP monitors as their colors aren't as vibrant as the Qnix, so this is one downside of the Qnix. While the vibrant colors make the Qnix more appealing to look at, the natural colors of the HP ZR22w would be better if it were to be used for photography/graphics design/etc.
> 
> For blacks, all 3 are excellent, though the cooler-tinted HP ZR22w makes it look like it has a darker black.
> 
> 
> 
> What's the best part? I got my used (2-months) Qnix for *$180*, though I had to drive about 2 hours one-way (4 hours total) to get such a deal.
> 
> Edit: Almost no BLB detected! There's just a slight bleed toward the upper-right top side, but it's so faint that it might just be IPS/PLS glow.
> 
> No dead pixels!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 120Hz with 459Mhz settings done!


Congrats, Yeah, I guess the 27 Korean are alright.... But though, anyone have any comparison against true 8 bit panels? Actually, anyone have comparison between 6 bit IPS vs 8 bit IPS?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> reset-all.exe in the CRU zip, then reboot.


Hmm tried that , I think this over clocking has confused my spyder elite, seems to be trying to calibrate to the wrong black level , I'm getting massive black crush after disabling the over clock and resetting all settings. Can't see all the boxes in the black level test where I had it perfect before. This sucks.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Hmm tried that , I think this over clocking has confused my spyder elite, seems to be trying to calibrate to the wrong black level , I'm getting massive black crush after disabling the over clock and resetting all settings. Can't see all the boxes in the black level test where I had it perfect before. This sucks.


you can also delete all monitors in CRU, shutdown, start up the computer and it should re-detect the monitor.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have gone gone back and checked every post was somewhat after or a direct reply to you and no one at any point said ANYTHING that could be even interpreted or indicated as a confirmation or even hint that these were somehow a 6bit panel(WHICH IS COMPLETELY FALSE).
> 
> What i did find is several members(including me) telling you it was most definitely proven to be a true 8bit panel. Now i just want anyone who sees these posts and then sees the later resulting reply from this person and think about the credibility here. Interestingly enough if you go to any credible review site(including this one) many very reputable testers will tell you PLS is VERY comparable in quality to AH-IPS which is the best version of IPS currently out.
> 
> I said it once and i will say it again, Please keep mis-information to yourself if you insist on believing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed about the 280x for 1080p
> 
> First what are your timings for 120hz? Also the wire length is generally more important than the gauge(but i would stick with at least 28AWG). I tried tons of cables and a 28AWG 3' cable ended up being the best by about 4hz(which was a cheap cable). Changing the xfire setup can help. My cards ports all have a 2-3hz difference between them.


Wait what? I was not aware of anyone telling me it is a true 8 bit panel? Especially looking some other forum's post regarding PLS being samsung's eIPS. However, if you have informations otherwise, link me. More than happy to know. I apologize if I had not seen your post, on large threads like this, I skim through a lot of posts, however, do you have the panel serial number that I can look up for myself?

Edit dug up your post. I stand corrected. It did remind an issue of it though. W-LED. The U2711 is CCFL LCD. Is the price of RGB LED still insane?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> you can also delete all monitors in CRU, shutdown, start up the computer and it should re-detect the monitor.


Thanks, yeah I tried that already a few times, the spyder is confused, it has done this before, it starts calibrating for 16-235 and crushing blacks, and unless you can manually tell it on the TV that its 0-255 it won't change back, just hooked it up to my HDTV and did a quick calibration with TV set to full rgb and CCC set to full rgb and it has switched back, just gotta hope it stays like that when I retry the monitor with the dvi cable. Should have just stuck with 60hz dammit.


----------



## dante`afk

I have raised the font size on the Qnix to 120% because it`s just too small and I feel like that my eyes get pretty tense after some time.

However, it is also on 120% now on my second 24" screen. Are there any programs that can adjust the size on the screens individually instead on both?

I am tempered to buy a second Qnix now only because of this. 120% font size on the 24" is pretty big....


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Wait what? I was not aware of anyone telling me it is a true 8 bit panel? Especially looking some other forum's post regarding PLS being samsung's eIPS. However, if you have informations otherwise, link me. More than happy to know. I apologize if I had not seen your post, on large threads like this, I skim through a lot of posts, however, do you have the panel serial number that I can look up for myself?
> 
> Edit dug up your post. I stand corrected. It did remind an issue of it though. W-LED. The U2711 is CCFL LCD. Is the price of RGB LED still insane?


No biggy, i am glad you came back and posted to clear things up


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> No biggy, i am glad you came back and posted to clear things up


Haha.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> FYI, to validate an overclock, you need a photograph of your screen running the blur-busters test, not just a screenshot.


You sir are correct and here is the appropriate photo:



Last night, I took some comparison photos between the 3 different monitors and below are a few of them. These were on stock color profiles and taken only with a Canon S95, so it could have been better tested, but I don't have the correct equipment for it. The monitor behind the Qnix is another HP ZR22w and is close enough to its twin that I didn't test it out.

Left (HP ZR2240w) | Middle (HP ZR22w) | Right (Qnix QX2710)







Even though the HP ZR2240w looks the most accurate in photos, the HP ZR22w physically looks better to my eyes (subjective of course).


----------



## drdrache

[quote name="Kokin" } snip [/quote]

are these all calibrated with the same tool with the same lighting?

cause from what I can tell (and have been reading), if they aren't, this shows us absolutely nothing.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> [quote name="Kokin" } snip


are these all calibrated with the same tool with the same lighting?

cause from what I can tell (and have been reading), if they aren't, this shows us absolutely nothing.[/quote]

+1 we need calibration or it doesn't count. You could put 8 of the same monitor next to each other and see these type of results if you don't calibrate.


----------



## Kokin

No they are not calibrated and I don't have the equipment to do so. I'll try to find color profiles to help with the differences, but that's really the best I can do with what I have.

I just wanted to show the differences when every monitor was set to default settings. As stated, the PLS panel is a lot more vibrant than IPS panels and makes the colors of the Qnix more saturated. Then I was showing the difference between a LED-lit IPS and a Fluorescent-lit IPS vs the Qnix.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> No they are not calibrated and I don't have the equipment to do so. I'll try to find color profiles to help with the differences, but that's really the best I can do with what I have.
> 
> I just wanted to show the differences when every monitor was set to default settings. As stated, the PLS panel is a lot more vibrant than IPS panels and makes the colors of the Qnix more saturated. Then I was showing the difference between a LED-lit IPS and a Fluorescent-lit IPS vs the Qnix.


the differences can vary so much with uncalibrated panels, where those 3 panels could be QNIX's and look that different.
EDIT :
I didn't see Spartan's reply, this really didn't need said again.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> No they are not calibrated and I don't have the equipment to do so. I'll try to find color profiles to help with the differences, but that's really the best I can do with what I have.
> 
> I just wanted to show the differences when every monitor was set to default settings. As stated, the PLS panel is a lot more vibrant than IPS panels and makes the colors of the Qnix more saturated. Then I was showing the difference between a LED-lit IPS and a Fluorescent-lit IPS vs the Qnix.


Fair enough, but certain pre calibrated monitors are easy to judge than non calibrated. the HPs might be pre calibrated since I know dell does to their ultrasharps.


----------



## flipmatthew

Do y'all think it's a good idea to order from ipsledmonitors.com? Other users reported success earlier, but I haven't seen any talk of them recently.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Fair enough, but certain pre calibrated monitors are easy to judge than non calibrated. the HPs might be pre calibrated since I know dell does to their ultrasharps.


Honestly i have never been impressed with pre-calibration. All the digital artists at my work have our monitors professionally calibrated and it is always a big difference. Granted the pre-calibration generally gets the right color hue and sharpness, the gamma, contrast and saturation are generally all still way off from what a spyder(or greater) calibrator will give you. I will agree Dell and Apple do tend to pre-calibrate a bit better but using a calibration device will always give you more exact results.


----------



## birthdaymonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Honestly i have never been impressed with pre-calibration. All the digital artists at my work have our monitors professionally calibrated and it is always a big difference. Granted the pre-calibration generally gets the right color hue and sharpness, the gamma, contrast and saturation are generally all still way off from what a spyder(or greater) calibrator will give you. I will agree Dell and Apple do tend to pre-calibrate a bit better but using a calibration device will always give you more exact results.


Before getting my X-star I tried 5 Dell U2713HMs, which were supposedly factory calibrated. They all looked night-and-day different when compared side-by-side. I think Dell's factory calibration is BS.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *birthdaymonkey*
> 
> Before getting my X-star I tried 5 Dell U2713HMs, which were supposedly factory calibrated. They all looked night-and-day different when compared side-by-side. I think Dell's factory calibration is BS.


Probably is. It is just a easier to know the results are not completely off the chart.


----------



## breefee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> Do y'all think it's a good idea to order from ipsledmonitors.com? Other users reported success earlier, but I haven't seen any talk of them recently.


I'm seconding this question.

I want to buy one of these, and it would seem like this is by far the safest way to do it. Will it even exist to honor the warranty in three years, though? I remember reading that the website has a 1 year long registration.

The unconditional return policy is the best part, I guess, but at least one person had had trouble with that too-
http://www.overclock.net/t/1409213/https-www-ipsledmonitors-com#post_20866544


----------



## aggielaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> Do y'all think it's a good idea to order from ipsledmonitors.com? Other users reported success earlier, but I haven't seen any talk of them recently.


I ordered mine from them on October 9th. Monitor shipped on the 11th and arrived on the 14th. Maybe I didn't read closely enough, as I thought ipsledmonitors.com stocked these in the US, but my monitor shipped from Korea. I am happy with their service. They sent order confirmation and payment confirmation emails. They did not send the shipping confirmation email they promised in earlier correspondence, but I was able to track my monitor via the "track order" tab on their website without issue.

Best,
HC


----------



## Cookybiscuit

So, who's going to be first to DIY an Nvidia G-Sync system onto their Qnix/X-Star?

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7436/nvidias-gsync-attempting-to-revolutionize-gaming-via-smoothness


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> So, who's going to be first to DIY an Nvidia G-Sync system onto their Qnix/X-Star?
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7436/nvidias-gsync-attempting-to-revolutionize-gaming-via-smoothness


I wonder how this would effect the 3D capability of a monitor. Something to think about.


----------



## viwe649

Do you guys think the Qnix/ X-star will support the G-Sync module?


----------



## eliongater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viwe649*
> 
> Do you guys think the Qnix/ X-star will support the G-Sync module?


It would be nice, but I think it has something to do with display port, as the Asus can only use DP after g sync is added.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

But DVI-D/Display Port can be converted back and forth without an active adapter, no? I thought they used the same pins.


----------



## jlw777

I upgraded to Windows 8.1, in games, the refresh rate stays @ 60hz while I used nvidia control panel to oc to 120hz. Is it a driver issue? Any got a fix?


----------



## derek0309

I just got my qnix from excellentcastle on ebay. I ordered a perfect pixel but I am not sure are these dust behind the frame or dead pixels. Can someone please help me out.


This lower left corner also has a bit BLB. Other than this corner there are no dead pixels on the monitor. It seems kind of weird to me that there are so many dead pixels in one corner. Please give your input. Thanks!


----------



## Stim0x

My QNIX 2710 died last night in a flurry of colours which can only be described as something hallucinogenic.

I quickly turned off the monitor when I saw it at that point but unfortunately the monitor wouldnt display anything afterwards. It powers on, but it's almost as though the monitor acts as though it gets no signal - flashing blue power LED and all.

I've tried different monitors/cables to confirm it's an issue with the monitor itself, but I'm not sure where to start.

It had been running at 120hz flawlessly up to that point for around 3/4 months.

I suspect I may need to replace the PCB but I'm not having much joy finding any sources for it. The part number is DPL-2560LS by "displayland."

Has anyone else had similar issues? I note that a couple of people have been searching for the PCB on this thread but I've not seen anything in the way of a response.

The Overlord PCB looks similar but costs pretty penny - I'm not even sure if that'll fix it.
http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/accessories/products/overlord-pcb-set

I've asked them if it's compatible.


----------



## yasamoka

I remember some sellers shipping PCBs for those who had issues with their monitors at the PCB-level. This is a better solution than sending back the monitor if the customer can replace the PCB themselves.


----------



## Nimz300

Got my qnix qx2710, 4 days to deliver, overclocked to 96 hertz no issue. no dead pixs or blb. very happy. Only one thing to mention is the customs fee is a whooping 96 euro for green-sum to Netherlands. just saying.


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nimz300*
> 
> Got my qnix qx2710, 4 days to deliver, overclocked to 96 hertz no issue. no dead pixs or blb. very happy. Only one thing to mention is the customs fee is a whooping 96 euro for green-sum to Netherlands. just saying.


Who did they ship with? I bought from bigclothcraft on ebay, and they delivered with DHL to me (I'm a Brit living in Den Haag) and customs fees were €57. I read on the Tweakers forums that FedEx costs are much higher for these monitors....one guy got hit with a bill of €170!!


----------



## Sir Unreal

I got my Qnix a few days ago and I have the problem, that other resolutions than 2560x1440 doesn't work (independent of the frame rate). I got those colorful vertical lines, when I switch to 1920x1080 or 1600x900 or 1366x768 (all at 60 Hz). [email protected] Hz or 96 Hz or even 120 Hz works fine. 1920x1200 and 1600x1200 also works fine. I changed the DVI cable from the stock one to two different DVI-D (single link) and no resolution works. Maybe a problem with the cable(s) or a configuration error in CRU?


----------



## Nimz300

I kinda figured out these fees are random for some reason. Mine was delivered with DHL from green-sum. (also a Brit living in Amsterdam)...to be honest, i cant really complain as it is still much cheaper than getting a pls monitor with these specs here in Netherlands or the EU for that matter. At the end of the day, i paid an extra 40 euro on top of my initial expectation....


----------



## mboner1

Alright, so after a few errors and glitches and a bit of insanity i am finally calibrated @ 96hz. took a bit of tweaking to get everything just right but yeah, here is the worlds best 96hz profile..









But seriously, it's for 96hz, max brightness which is 240cdm after the over clock. Here's a few calibration pics and then the profile...










And here's the profile for anyone that wants the best 96hz profile ever









https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/96hz.icm

Does everyone elses gpu run hotter at 96hz at idle on the desktop?? Mine's about 12 degrees hotter, if i switch back to 60hz drops straight back down.


----------



## rubixcube101

Does anyone have a problem with bluescreening on overclock? When switching profiles ive been getting this as of recent:
Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.1
Locale ID: 3081

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode: 3b
BCP1: 00000000C0000005
BCP2: FFFFF880076F50B5
BCP3: FFFFF880104BC290
BCP4: 0000000000000000
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service Pack: 1_0
Product: 256_1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Does everyone elses gpu run hotter at 96hz at idle on the desktop?? Mine's about 12 degrees hotter, if i switch back to 60hz drops straight back down.


Yes mine runs a fair bit hotter. Its because it doesnt clock down as much as when its at 60Hz


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stim0x*
> 
> My QNIX 2710 died last night in a flurry of colours which can only be described as something hallucinogenic.
> 
> I quickly turned off the monitor when I saw it at that point but unfortunately the monitor wouldnt display anything afterwards. It powers on, but it's almost as though the monitor acts as though it gets no signal - flashing blue power LED and all.
> 
> I've tried different monitors/cables to confirm it's an issue with the monitor itself, but I'm not sure where to start.
> 
> It had been running at 120hz flawlessly up to that point for around 3/4 months.
> 
> I suspect I may need to replace the PCB but I'm not having much joy finding any sources for it. The part number is DPL-2560LS by "displayland."
> 
> Has anyone else had similar issues? I note that a couple of people have been searching for the PCB on this thread but I've not seen anything in the way of a response.
> 
> The Overlord PCB looks similar but costs pretty penny - I'm not even sure if that'll fix it.
> http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/accessories/products/overlord-pcb-set
> 
> I've asked them if it's compatible.


Try connecting another monitor as your primary screen with the Qnix disconnected. Then boot into windows and let the OS finish loading. Then try connecting the Qnix as a secondary display. Try getting a picture that way. Mine has done this several times in the process of messing around with timings and overclocking past 148hz but i was ALWAYS able to get the picture back using this method. FYI this will clear your CRU settings since it is going to reset the driver association. You can get them back by copy and pasting with the slider in CRU top menu.

If your screen did truly die then i think the heatsink mod i posted a few pages back is starting to look like a good idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Unreal*
> 
> I got my Qnix a few days ago and I have the problem, that other resolutions than 2560x1440 doesn't work (independent of the frame rate). I got those colorful vertical lines, when I switch to 1920x1080 or 1600x900 or 1366x768 (all at 60 Hz). [email protected] Hz or 96 Hz or even 120 Hz works fine. 1920x1200 and 1600x1200 also works fine. I changed the DVI cable from the stock one to two different DVI-D (single link) and no resolution works. Maybe a problem with the cable(s) or a configuration error in CRU?


What GPU are you using nvidia or AMD? You need to set the scaling to the GPU and also check the "override the scaling in games" option. Also make sure scaling is set to the "aspect ratio". Lastly sometimes certain GPUs have trouble scaling for me, my gtx760 gave me headaches but my gtx770 SLI worked fine but i was always able to get 720p to work as it is exactly a quarter resolution.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Does everyone elses gpu run hotter at 96hz at idle on the desktop?? Mine's about 12 degrees hotter, if i switch back to 60hz drops straight back down.


Everyone is going to run a bit hotter since you are processing a lot more data to present the screen. This is a simple fact that is relative to the pixel clock. And this is going to happen even with clocking down(unless you have a screen saver that just turns the screen off)


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Try connecting another monitor as your primary screen with the Qnix disconnected. Then boot into windows and let the OS finish loading. Then try connecting the Qnix as a secondary display. Try getting a picture that way. Mine has done this several times in the process of messing around with timings and overclocking past 148hz but i was ALWAYS able to get the picture back using this method. FYI this will clear your CRU settings since it is going to reset the driver association. You can get them back by copy and pasting with the slider in CRU top menu.
> 
> If your screen did truly die then i think the heatsink mod i posted a few pages back is starting to look like a good idea.
> What GPU are you using nvidia or AMD? You need to set the scaling to the GPU and also check the "override the scaling in games" option. Also make sure scaling is set to the "aspect ratio". Lastly sometimes certain GPUs have trouble scaling for me, my gtx760 gave me headaches but my gtx770 SLI worked fine but i was always able to get 720p to work as it is exactly a quarter resolution.


I haven't had a chance to get the full chip size (14mm?) and clearances, but I have some options floating about for high performing passive heatsinks. if someone who has more time to take apart their monitor (i know, only a few min, but space/time doing these things are slim for me for another week) and get me the vertical hight restriction, as well up/down and left/right (when sitting landscape of course)
I can feed that info to the OEM, and see about a mass run


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Everyone is going to run a bit hotter since you are processing a lot more data to present the screen. This is a simple fact that is relative to the pixel clock. And this is going to happen even with clocking down(unless you have a screen saver that just turns the screen off)


Spewing. I was already on the edge with temps, 37 at idle with a barely acceptable noise output from the fan, up to 56 @ 96hz with a totally unacceptable output from the fan. The 290x had better be quiet









Is image retention a fait accompli at 96hz or just a few get it?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I haven't had a chance to get the full chip size (14mm?) and clearances, but I have some options floating about for high performing passive heatsinks. if someone who has more time to take apart their monitor (i know, only a few min, but space/time doing these things are slim for me for another week) and get me the vertical hight restriction, as well up/down and left/right (when sitting landscape of course)
> I can feed that info to the OEM, and see about a mass run


The chip itself is just over 1/2 inch square. The heatsink i put on was slightly under 3/4 inch square so it fit nicely over it. The height of my heatsink was about 1/8 inch but i did have slightly more room maybe between 3/16 and 1/4 inch.

Did you try the monitor as a secondary yet?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Is image retention a fait accompli at 96hz or just a few get it?


If you optimize the pixel clock then at 96hz you should be well under the PCB MAX operating limit of 450Mhz so there is no reason anyone should get image retention. If you do get image retention with a pixel clock under 450Mhz then it could be foreshadowing of future problems.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Did you try the monitor as a secondary yet?
> If you optimize the pixel clock then at 96hz you should be well under the PCB MAX operating limit of 450Mhz so there is no reason anyone should get image retention. If you do get image retention with a pixel clock under 450Mhz then it could be foreshadowing of future problems.


Well i haven't noticed any image retention yet, just want to be cautious. I have seen your timings in cru but i saw someone say you need different timings for amd cards, is that accurate.

FTR i haven't changed my timings at all, only the hz. Ignore the funky quality of the pic , fraps doesn't use the icc profile for some reason when taking pics of the desktop..

Is this pixel clock pretty standard/ safe?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Well i haven't noticed any image retention yet, just want to be cautious. I have seen your timings in cru but i saw someone say you need different timings for amd cards, is that accurate.
> 
> FTR i haven't changed my timings at all, only the hz. Ignore the funky quality of the pic , fraps doesn't use the icc profile for some reason when taking pics of the desktop..
> 
> Is this pixel clock pretty standard/ safe?


I can't make out the timings in that picture. I think it shows your pixel clock in the 300s which should be fine.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I can't make out the timings in that picture. I think it shows your pixel clock in the 300s which should be fine.


Sorry, if you right click it and open in new tab it is bigger. Yeah, pixel clock is 386. Cheers man.


----------



## derek0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derek0309*
> 
> I just got my qnix from excellentcastle on ebay. I ordered a perfect pixel but I am not sure are these dust behind the frame or dead pixels. Can someone please help me out.
> 
> 
> This lower left corner also has a bit BLB. Other than this corner there are no dead pixels on the monitor. It seems kind of weird to me that there are so many dead pixels in one corner. Please give your input. Thanks!


Anyone?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derek0309*
> 
> Anyone?


Guessing, but it certainly looks like dust or dirt and not dead or stuck pixels to me, but i'm only comparing it to what my stuck pixel looks like which is green lol.


----------



## derek0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Guessing, but it certainly looks like dust or dirt and not dead or stuck pixels to me, but i'm only comparing it to what my stuck pixel looks like which is green lol.


Thanks. I feel like it's dust too but I'm hesitating to open the monitor, don't wanna end up getting more dust in.


----------



## lazy bum

just got a Qnix 2710 and I feel a little silly but I can't find where the serial number is on the monitor or box. I need it to finalize the squaretrade warranty. Can anyone point out where it's located?

I see a 10 digit number on the box but it's in a phone number format and everything's written in Korean, of course. Is that it? I can't find any numbers at all on the actual monitor.


----------



## Sir Unreal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> What GPU are you using nvidia or AMD? You need to set the scaling to the GPU and also check the "override the scaling in games" option. Also make sure scaling is set to the "aspect ratio". Lastly sometimes certain GPUs have trouble scaling for me, my gtx760 gave me headaches but my gtx770 SLI worked fine but i was always able to get 720p to work as it is exactly a quarter resolution.


That was it. Thank you very much.


----------



## EmZkY

I just jumped on the Korean wagon and ordered an ★QNIX★ QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel 27" from accessorieswhole







. Crossing my fingers for a good monitor.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I can't make out the timings in that picture. I think it shows your pixel clock in the 300s which should be fine.


Is there a reason why people shouldn't select "automatic- lcd standard" instead of manual timings. The creator of cru, toasty recommends that it be selected and that it will let the gpu clock down at idle. Tried it out and it does lower the temps back to normal when idle...

http://overlordforum.com/topic/21-overclocking-quick-start-guide/


----------



## Stim0x

Quote:


> Try connecting another monitor as your primary screen with the Qnix disconnected. Then boot into windows and let the OS finish loading. Then try connecting the Qnix as a secondary display. Try getting a picture that way. Mine has done this several times in the process of messing around with timings and overclocking past 148hz but i was ALWAYS able to get the picture back using this method. FYI this will clear your CRU settings since it is going to reset the driver association. You can get them back by copy and pasting with the slider in CRU top menu.
> 
> If your screen did truly die then i think the heatsink mod i posted a few pages back is starting to look like a good idea.


Tried this, thanks for the suggestion.

I had some colour on the screen when I tried it the first time - first a fully red screen, then green.

It went off shortly after..

My guess is it's shot. I've tried to contact the original supplier as per another suggestion to see if they can send out a replacement PCB.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Is there a reason why people shouldn't select "automatic- lcd standard" instead of manual timings. The creator of cru, toasty recommends that it be selected and that it will let the gpu clock down at idle. Tried it out and it does lower the temps back to normal when idle...
> 
> http://overlordforum.com/topic/21-overclocking-quick-start-guide/


more or less
""Automatic - LCD standard" (CRU) / "CVT reduced blank" (NVIDIA CP) will allow the video card to clock down when idle. If your monitor can't handle that at 120 Hz, try "Automatic - LCD reduced" (CRU) / copy the settings below (NVIDIA CP). If that doesn't help, you will have to reduce the refresh rate."

basically, we are already past that point, our clocks are too high using those options, we need to skip right to manual.
(aka, for me LCD reduced gives me a pixelclock of 469.xx, where manual is 459.xx)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> more or less
> ""Automatic - LCD standard" (CRU) / "CVT reduced blank" (NVIDIA CP) will allow the video card to clock down when idle. If your monitor can't handle that at 120 Hz, try "Automatic - LCD reduced" (CRU) / copy the settings below (NVIDIA CP). If that doesn't help, you will have to reduce the refresh rate."
> 
> basically, we are already past that point, our clocks are too high using those options, we need to skip right to manual.
> (aka, for me LCD reduced gives me a pixelclock of 469.xx, where manual is 459.xx)


+1 Also any 6xx or 7xx series card still clocks down or at least should(has for me but i have seen a few people say theirs didn't).


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> more or less
> ""Automatic - LCD standard" (CRU) / "CVT reduced blank" (NVIDIA CP) will allow the video card to clock down when idle. If your monitor can't handle that at 120 Hz, try "Automatic - LCD reduced" (CRU) / copy the settings below (NVIDIA CP). If that doesn't help, you will have to reduce the refresh rate."
> 
> basically, we are already past that point, our clocks are too high using those options, we need to skip right to manual.
> (aka, for me LCD reduced gives me a pixelclock of 469.xx, where manual is 459.xx)


Well in my cru it doesn't change the pixel clock it just goes dull indicating obviously that i can't change anything, Does your pixel clock actually go up in cru in front of your eyes when you click automatic-lcd standard?

Just went through and clicked all options without applying them, and the only one that changed the pixel clock was crt which sent it up to 530 lol, the rest stayed on 386 and went dull.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Well in my cru it doesn't change the pixel clock it just goes dull indicating obviously that i can't change anything, Does your pixel clock actually go up in cru in front of your eyes when you click automatic-lcd standard?
> 
> Just went through and clicked all options without applying them, and the only one that changed the pixel clock was crt which sent it up to 530 lol, the rest stayed on 386 and went dull.


switch it to 120hz, and look at the pixel clock.
LCD reduced will have 469.xx, and the manual settings I use, are 459.xx.


----------



## derek0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derek0309*
> 
> I just got my qnix from excellentcastle on ebay. I ordered a perfect pixel but I am not sure are these dust behind the frame or dead pixels. Can someone please help me out.
> 
> 
> This lower left corner also has a bit BLB. Other than this corner there are no dead pixels on the monitor. It seems kind of weird to me that there are so many dead pixels in one corner. Please give your input. Thanks!


What do others think? Thanks


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> of course it won't go up, becasue they all default to 60hz,
> 
> switch it to 120hz, and look at the pixel clock.


Huh? I thought you said yours went up when you changed it? Also mine stays on 96hz after doing it. I'm talking bout in my 96hz profile I change it to automatic instead of manual, not in the 60hz one. Am I effectively doing nothing? Each time I open the 96hz profile it still says manual. But it has definitely lowered the temps so I don't know what's going on.

Sorry if these are stupid questions but I am just trying to understand what's going on. And if I can possibly use the auto setting as it seems to play nicer.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Huh? I thought you said yours went up when you changed it? Also mine stays on 96hz after doing it. I'm talking bout in my 96hz profile I change it to automatic instead of manual, not in the 60hz one. Am I effectively doing nothing? Each time I open the 96hz profile it still says manual. But it has definitely lowered the temps so I don't know what's going on.
> 
> Sorry if these are stupid questions but I am just trying to understand what's going on. And if I can possibly use the auto setting as it seems to play nicer.


ohhh, if you open a saved profile, it won't change until saved, then the profile will reflect the new settings.
I was talking about adding a new profile, IIRC it's not a good idea to mess with a current profile, just add new, delete old.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derek0309*
> 
> What do others think? Thanks


I as well think it's dust, and really the only way to find out is remove the glass (I assume you have the tempered glass one)
if it's not, then that's pretty close to alot of dead/stuck pixels (honestly, never saw them like that before, but it happens)


----------



## bond32

Hey guys, been checking in on this thread a bunch. Just wanted to say thanks for the great info. Had my X-Star for a few weeks now and I have loved it. Periodically tweaked the refresh rate when I got it, but nothing stuck. Just now I have 120 hz working and it looks fantastic.


----------



## stolemyowncar

So is 300$ standard for these? I'm about to be returning my third defective 2770, so I'm kind of starting to honestly consider these.

Also are the pixel perfects really not any better than the standard ones? Or to ask it in a different way... or has the average experience with pixel perfects been better?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

with all the talk of dead monitors recently and people with them saying they overclocked I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the square trade warranty ?


----------



## derek0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I as well think it's dust, and really the only way to find out is remove the glass (I assume you have the tempered glass one)
> if it's not, then that's pretty close to alot of dead/stuck pixels (honestly, never saw them like that before, but it happens)


Mine is not tempered glass


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derek0309*
> 
> Mine is not tempered glass


If they tell you it is dust and the ebay seller asks you to open it your self and clean it make sure you get it in writing on ebay messages that they will send a replacement if you break something. I have a feeling they will just tell you to 'clean it' which obviously will require opening it.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> If they tell you it is dust and the ebay seller asks you to open it your self and clean it make sure you get it in writing on ebay messages that they will send a replacement if you break something. I have a feeling they will just tell you to 'clean it' which obviously will require opening it.


if it's not tempered glass, then there is nothing for him to take apart to clean, that is under the film.


----------



## derek0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> If they tell you it is dust and the ebay seller asks you to open it your self and clean it make sure you get it in writing on ebay messages that they will send a replacement if you break something. I have a feeling they will just tell you to 'clean it' which obviously will require opening it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> if it's not tempered glass, then there is nothing for him to take apart to clean, that is under the film.


Still waiting for my ebay seller to reply







its Monday morning in South Korea. If its not dust then I will have to return/exchange it







arghhh


----------



## Profwoot

Anyone running two of these Korean monitors from the same GPU? Right now my primary is a Shimian (16 months and still perfect!), and my secondary is an old Samsung TN that I'm looking to replace with one of these PLS monitors. My GPU is a GTX670, so I only have the one duallink DVI-D connection, hooked up to the Shimian.

So here's the question: if I get a multi-input QNIX, is the full 1440 resolution possible via displayport or HDMI? The GTX670 also has a duallink DVI-I, but the product descriptions all say that won't work.

Sorry if this is a dumb question; I haven't really kept track of this stuff since I got my Shimian. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

So, apparently the guys who sell the Overlord Tempest monitors are planning on making a G-Sync version...


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Profwoot*
> 
> Anyone running two of these Korean monitors from the same GPU? Right now my primary is a Shimian (16 months and still perfect!), and my secondary is an old Samsung TN that I'm looking to replace with one of these PLS monitors. My GPU is a GTX670, so I only have the one duallink DVI-D connection, hooked up to the Shimian.
> 
> So here's the question: if I get a multi-input QNIX, is the full 1440 resolution possible via displayport or HDMI? The GTX670 also has a duallink DVI-I, but the product descriptions all say that won't work.
> 
> Sorry if this is a dumb question; I haven't really kept track of this stuff since I got my Shimian. Thanks in advance.


From my understanding, Displayport will, not HDMI, unless it's the new version.

Also, I have a GTX 770 2GB, and will have two of these setup sometime this week, so will let you know.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Profwoot*
> 
> Anyone running two of these Korean monitors from the same GPU? Right now my primary is a Shimian (16 months and still perfect!), and my secondary is an old Samsung TN that I'm looking to replace with one of these PLS monitors. My GPU is a GTX670, so I only have the one duallink DVI-D connection, hooked up to the Shimian.
> 
> So here's the question: if I get a multi-input QNIX, is the full 1440 resolution possible via displayport or HDMI? The GTX670 also has a duallink DVI-I, but the product descriptions all say that won't work.
> 
> Sorry if this is a dumb question; I haven't really kept track of this stuff since I got my Shimian. Thanks in advance.


The product descriptions are wrong. You can run both a Shimian and Qnix off a single GTX 670, via both DL-DVI-D or DL-DVI-I. As for your question, DP will run at 1440p, but HDMI will not.


----------



## Profwoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> From my understanding, Displayport will, not HDMI, unless it's the new version.
> 
> Also, I have a GTX 770 2GB, and will have two of these setup sometime this week, so will let you know.


Thanks. After some research, I figured out that a male d/l DVI-D cable works just fine with a female d/l DVI-I port, and have confirmed that by switching my Shimian to the DVI-I. So it looks like I won't have to do anything special to get my dual-IPS setup going. Great success.


----------



## bijan588

How is this blb? The camera makes it look WAY worse than it actually is.

Also is it normal for the panel to be a bit loose? (It has a few mm of give if I press it in.)


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> switch it to 120hz, and look at the pixel clock.
> LCD reduced will have 469.xx, and the manual settings I use, are 459.xx.


Tried setting it to 120hz and it said 493 pixel clock for manual and for automatic standard, switching to automatic reduced lowered the pixel clock to 469. Weird that i get the opposite result to others?? Changing it at 96hz makes no difference to the pixel clock on any setting, all stay at 386. Think i'm going to stick with automatic standard as that clocks down at idle, i'm down from 56 degrees at idle to 38, big difference.. if it's safe?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> How is this blb? The camera makes it look WAY worse than it actually is.
> 
> Also is it normal for the panel to be a bit loose? (It has a few mm of give if I press it in.)


I think yours is very similar to mine, bottom right top right.


----------



## Kokin

So it looks like a DL-DVI => DP passive adapter kinda works, but since my 7950 only has mini-DP, it has to be DL-DVI=>DP(passive adapter)=>mini-DP(passive adapter). It won't go anywhere past 60Hz with this setup and will produce these lines that "blink" in and out of the screen. Not really viable via passive adapters, though an active adapter produces clear signals.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> How is this blb? The camera makes it look WAY worse than it actually is.
> 
> Also is it normal for the panel to be a bit loose? (It has a few mm of give if I press it in.)


This looks similar to what I see when I take a photo, but in real life, I see about 95% black with a bit of bleeding or possibly just IPS/PLS glow at the top. Outside of an all-black background, I don't see this at all, even in dark movies/games. As long as you're not seeing it in your normal operations, it should be good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Tried setting it to 120hz and it said 493 pixel clock for manual and for automatic standard, switching to automatic reduced lowered the pixel clock to 469. Weird that i get the opposite result to others?? Changing it at 96hz makes no difference to the pixel clock on any setting, all stay at 386. Think i'm going to stick with automatic standard as that clocks down at idle, i'm down from 56 degrees at idle to 38, big difference.. if it's safe?


When setting to manual clocks, do you adjust the Front porch, sync width, and back porch? I'm using the settings that jerrolds previously posted and it works like a charm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> As far as ive seen - my settings have the lowest Pixel Clock @ 120hz for Radeon cards (Spartan F8 has lower for Geforce i believe) ..give these a shot


The only downside to 120Hz would be the gamma shift, but if I set my gamma level to 1.35 (from 1.00) in AMD CCC, it gets close to my colors at 60Hz.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> So it looks like a DL-DVI => DP passive adapter kinda works, but since my 7950 only has mini-DP, it has to be DL-DVI=>DP(passive adapter)=>mini-DP(passive adapter). It won't go anywhere past 60Hz with this setup and will produce these lines that "blink" in and out of the screen. Not really viable via passive adapters, though an active adapter produces clear signals.
> This looks similar to what I see when I take a photo, but in real life, I see about 95% black with a bit of bleeding or possibly just IPS/PLS glow at the top. Outside of an all-black background, I don't see this at all, even in dark movies/games. As long as you're not seeing it in your normal operations, it should be good.
> When setting to manual clocks, do you adjust the Front porch, sync width, and back porch? I'm using the settings that jerrolds previously posted and it works like a charm.
> The only downside to 120Hz would be the gamma shift, but if I set my gamma level to 1.35 (from 1.00) in AMD CCC, it gets close to my colors at 60Hz.


Cheers man, i was looking for the AMD timings last night and couldn't find them anywhere! ...However now i think i'm just going to stick with the auto settings at 386 pixel clock for 96hz as i have already done a calibration that i'm happy with with the spyder elite, re doing the timings would mean a re calibration as it would shift the gamma differently wouldn't it?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

so that spyderelite costs almost as much as the monitor, any decent cheap alternatives?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Cheers man, i was looking for the AMD timings last night and couldn't find them anywhere! ...However now i think i'm just going to stick with the auto settings at 386 pixel clock for 96hz as i have already done a calibration that i'm happy with with the spyder elite, re doing the timings would mean a re calibration as it would shift the gamma differently wouldn't it?


From what I've read, the gamma shift isn't really apparent until 100Hz+, at 120Hz, you'll see a huge shift down, but you could easily change it via CCC desktop color settings.

I think 1.3 or 1.35 gamma and a contrast of 110 bring my 120Hz color levels pretty close to 60Hz levels. This is just from my perspective though, I don't have any calibration equipment.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> '
> 
> From what I've read, the gamma shift isn't really apparent until 100Hz+, at 120Hz, you'll see a huge shift down, but you could easily change it via CCC desktop color settings.
> 
> I think 1.3 or 1.35 gamma and a contrast of 110 bring my 120Hz color levels pretty close to 60Hz levels.


and this is without using an icc profile? I might give it a try an compare it between the slh28 110hz profile ive been using


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> and this is without using an icc profile? I might give it a try an compare it between the slh28 110hz profile ive been using


Yep, no ICC profile yet. I'll probably play around with different profiles sometime this week since I'm boggled down with midterms, lab reports, research projects, etc.









Edit: I should probably mention this is with my Qnix only 5 clicks up from the lowest brightness setting. From lowest to highest, I have 30 clicks.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yep, no ICC profile yet. I'll probably play around with different profiles sometime this week since I'm boggled down with midterms, lab reports, research projects, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I should probably mention this is with my Qnix only 5 clicks up from the lowest brightness setting. From lowest to highest, I have 30 clicks.


only 5 up ? what the heck lol. Let me try it, ill see how many clicks I have. SOme times I can click my backlight off, other times it only goes down to a minimum level.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> so that spyderelite costs almost as much as the monitor, any decent cheap alternatives?


I think it's worth it , i have used it on about 10 different monitors in the past 12 months, i was sending myself insane trying to be satisfied with manual adjustments and always tweaking picture settings, it might take me a while but once i get set with a profile with the spyder i don't even think about it anymore. I got ripped off on mine as well though, cost like $320 au. When this one gives out i might change it up a bit and go for the x rite i1 display pro or the colormunki but the spyder has served my purpose well... My purpose is insanity btw lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> From what I've read, the gamma shift isn't really apparent until 100Hz+, at 120Hz, you'll see a huge shift down, but you could easily change it via CCC desktop color settings.
> 
> I think 1.3 or 1.35 gamma and a contrast of 110 bring my 120Hz color levels pretty close to 60Hz levels. This is just from my perspective though, I don't have any calibration equipment.


Yeah, i'm still noticing a fair gamma shift at 96hz, i prefer to err on the side of caution and don't really want my pixel clock that high, plus the possibility of image retention and the hassle of a re calibration, i think i'm done yo. I will definitely keep those settings handy for the next time i play around with it tho, so thanks.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

idk kokin I just tried 5 clicks and your settings and it was super dark....... Like hella dark lol.....

used that lagom website color chart and catalyst to calibrate

ended up using max brightness and 1.30 gamma, compared it to the icc profile I was using and it looks alot better at 117hz. Much better colors imo.

used the avchd calibration stuff also. I don't have any way to use a blue filter so i cant judge the colors but I did the black/white level and I was right on the money it seems.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yep, no ICC profile yet. I'll probably play around with different profiles sometime this week since I'm boggled down with midterms, lab reports, research projects, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I should probably mention this is with my Qnix only 5 clicks up from the lowest brightness setting. From lowest to highest, I have 30 clicks.


Also if you use this gamma/ sharpness test it tells you if your gamma is correct, if you squint at it and it all turns into one big grey box then your gamma is set correctly. Just thought it might be handy if your trying to adjust your gamma manually...

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> idk kokin I just tried 5 clicks and your settings and it was super dark....... Like hella dark lol.....
> 
> used that lagom website color chart and catalyst to calibrate
> 
> ended up using max brightness and 1.30 gamma, compared it to the icc profile I was using and it looks alot better at 117hz. Much better colors imo.
> 
> used the avchd calibration stuff also. I don't have any way to use a blue filter so i cant judge the colors but I did the black/white level and I was right on the money it seems.


LOL! I don't like to rape my eyes to death at the higher brightness levels, though I'm not used to max brightness. I'm glad the gamma change in CCC helped with your colors.

Typically I use:

Night time: 5~7 clicks from off/min brightness
Day time: 10~15 clicks from off/min brightness


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Also if you use this gamma/ sharpness test it tells you if your gamma is correct, if you squint at it and it all turns into one big grey box then your gamma is set correctly. Just thought it might be handy if your trying to adjust your gamma manually...
> 
> http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php


haha was just about to go to bed and saw your post, sure enough on the sharpness test it says the middle should blend in and yea, it doesn't @ 1.30 for me but it does @ 1.45









think i'm about done also as you said earlier im starting to go abit nuts my self
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> LOL! I don't like to rape my eyes to death at the higher brightness levels, though I'm not used to max brightness. I'm glad the gamma change in CCC helped with your colors.
> 
> Typically I use:
> 
> Night time: 5~7 clicks from off/min brightness
> Day time: 10~15 clicks from off/min brightness


yea Im calibrating in a completely dark room since I like to game in the dark. I know it isn't the best for the eyes but im 25 and still don't need glasses so it isn't that bad









15 clicks is close to where I was at using slh28's icc profile I think his was 17 clicks.

I tried your 5 and I was like not gonna happen lol.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Also if you use this gamma/ sharpness test it tells you if your gamma is correct, if you squint at it and it all turns into one big grey box then your gamma is set correctly. Just thought it might be handy if your trying to adjust your gamma manually...
> 
> http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php


This was pretty helpful. +rep

@5~7 clicks, 1.55 gamma is best
@30 clicks (max), 1.5 gamma is best


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> This was pretty helpful. +rep
> 
> @5~7 clicks, 1.55 gamma is best
> @30 clicks (max), 1.5 gamma is best


Yeah I added rep for that too.

We are pretty close then kokin im digging 1.45 is that 1.50 with any contrast change or no? im not using any.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Yeah I added rep for that too.
> 
> We are pretty close then kokin im digging 1.45 is that 1.50 with any contrast change or no? im not using any.


That is with no contrast change. Looks like I should use similar profiles to you, if we're this close.


----------



## rwong48

I got a glossy X-Star DVI-only a few months ago, and it's been running at 120Hz great.

I want the DisplayPort version, as much as I am a DVI+Windows guy, it'd be nice to hook up my work Mac to it. I wish I knew the DP version existed when I bought it..

But it seems like no one can buy the glossy version nowadays? Whenever I try to buy (last time from dream-seller, this time from accessorieswhole), they tell me that there's a shortage, and to try to switch me to matte. Why are their auctions still up? Other people experience this too, right?
Quote:


> Hi
> 
> Sorry for your inconvenience.
> Qnix QX2710 Dport Glossy monitor is out of stock.
> If it's alright, can you change it to Matte monitor?
> 
> If you want a refund, we will refund it immediately.
> 
> We will wait for your response.
> Thank you.
> 
> - accessorieswhole


Quote:


> Hi
> 
> Sorry for your inconvenience.
> We have checked with the manufacturer and they are lacking of Glossy panel to produce the monitor.
> 
> Is display port a must for you?
> How about below monitor?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111103319602&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
> 
> If you pay the price difference, we can send you this one.
> 
> We're sorry for your trouble.
> 
> If you want a refund, we will refund your payment immediately.
> Thank you.
> 
> - accessorieswhole


This guy even tried getting me to buy a different monitor/panel, but I want the PLS one. Gotta have dat 120Hz (although I probably won't be getting it with the Mac mDP.. 120Hz with only Windows DVI will be fine)

Last time, I said I'd just wait, and it shipped in like 2 days. Not sure if the same thing will happen this time. Should I switch to matte or call his bluff? Honestly, I still want glossy, but my past 10 monitors have been matte and they were fine. I think glossy has an extra punch to it.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwong48*
> 
> I got a glossy X-Star DVI-only a few months ago, and it's been running at 120Hz great.
> 
> I want the DisplayPort version, as much as I am a DVI+Windows guy, it'd be nice to hook up my work Mac to it. I wish I knew the DP version existed when I bought it..
> 
> But it seems like no one can buy the glossy version nowadays? Whenever I try to buy (last time from dream-seller, this time from accessorieswhole), they tell me that there's a shortage, and to try to switch me to matte. Why are their auctions still up? Other people experience this too, right?
> 
> This guy even tried getting me to buy a different monitor/panel, but I want the PLS one. Gotta have dat 120Hz (although I probably won't be getting it with the Mac mDP.. 120Hz with only Windows DVI will be fine)
> 
> Last time, I said I'd just wait, and it shipped in like 2 days. Not sure if the same thing will happen this time. Should I switch to matte or call his bluff? Honestly, I still want glossy, but my past 10 monitors have been matte and they were fine. I think glossy has an extra punch to it.


You could actually just get an active DL-DVI to mini-DP adapter and it will work with your Mac. The matte coating is very light on this monitor and is considered semi-glossy.

If you don't need another monitor and just want to connect your X-Star to your Mac, I suggest just getting a refund and buying an active adapter.


----------



## yasamoka

@HardwareDecoder: Check out my last post for colorimeter recommendations.


----------



## gonsa

I don't know which seller to choose. green-sum or accessorieswhole.
green-sum has the pixel-perfect policy though..


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> I don't know which seller to choose. green-sum or accessorieswhole.
> green-sum has the pixel-perfect policy though..


I went with accessories whole about 2 weeks ago, didn't buy perfect pixel as there are far to many reports of people still getting dead or stuck pixels, and a stuck pixel is better than some of the other issues you may get anyway. I ended up with 1 stuck pixel, no other issues i can see, fast delivery, good communication. I would recommend them based on my experience.


----------



## ya mother

What is the difference between the tempered glass and Glossy?....thought they were the same?.....I used to have 27" Hazro with a glass front and it was glossy?


----------



## Feyla

Hi,

I have read through some of this monster thread, and pretty much decided that I'm going to get a QNIX QX2710. My only concern is what will happen if I'm not at home when this is delivered (which I most likely won't be), since this is being shipped from Korea. I don't want it to be sent back







I live in the UK, anyone got any idea? I have contacted dream-seller and green sum to see what they say also.

Apologies if this has been covered before, I haven't read the whole thread yet.

Thanks


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have read through some of this monster thread, and pretty much decided that I'm going to get a QNIX QX2710. My only concern is what will happen if I'm not at home when this is delivered (which I most likely won't be), since this is being shipped from Korea. I don't want it to be sent back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I live in the UK, anyone got any idea? I have contacted dream-seller and green sum to see what they say also.
> 
> Apologies if this has been covered before, I haven't read the whole thread yet.
> 
> Thanks


I have also decided on the same monitor QNIX QX2710.......(my dilemma is between the glossy and glass?....any pics of them both?) ...... it depends on which courier they use.....they are not going to send it back straight away, you will get a card through the door saying about re-delivery or you probably will be able to pick it up from them when it suits you.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwong48*
> 
> I got a glossy X-Star DVI-only a few months ago, and it's been running at 120Hz great.
> 
> I want the DisplayPort version, as much as I am a DVI+Windows guy, it'd be nice to hook up my work Mac to it. I wish I knew the DP version existed when I bought it..
> 
> But it seems like no one can buy the glossy version nowadays? Whenever I try to buy (last time from dream-seller, this time from accessorieswhole), they tell me that there's a shortage, and to try to switch me to matte. Why are their auctions still up? Other people experience this too, right?
> 
> This guy even tried getting me to buy a different monitor/panel, but I want the PLS one. Gotta have dat 120Hz (although I probably won't be getting it with the Mac mDP.. 120Hz with only Windows DVI will be fine)
> 
> Last time, I said I'd just wait, and it shipped in like 2 days. Not sure if the same thing will happen this time. Should I switch to matte or call his bluff? Honestly, I still want glossy, but my past 10 monitors have been matte and they were fine. I think glossy has an extra punch to it.


FYI, no multi input version has been shown to overclock as of yet, and many have been shown not to overclock.


----------



## stolemyowncar

I think I'm going to be getting one of these, because I'm really sick of going with the mainstream brands for twice the price and finding defects all over the place anyway.

So what's the best place to get these? dream seller seems to have the lowest price at 304. Is 330 worth it for the ipsledmonitor's return policy? I've heard some bad things about someone wanting to do a return on these forums.


----------



## Ghost12

I have my 1440p screen fixed today, replacement pcb. I use a second screen but it wont let me move my mouse across although the screen is on? I have extended desktop chosen. Any ideas?

Thanks


----------



## ya mother

There is so many to choose from and they all use the same ads and pictures?

Ymakazi.

Qnix

Crossover

catleap

Are they not just the same panels in different frames/stands?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> I have my 1440p screen fixed today, replacement pcb. I use a second screen but it wont let me move my mouse across although the screen is on? I have extended desktop chosen. Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks


This is going to be the most ******ed suggestion ever lol but..

Have you tried going to the left and the right side of your main monitor to get it to the 2nd monitor? Like just cos your monitor is on the left side doesn't mean it will be to the left side of the main screen with the mouse to get to it, try right side. Told you it was dumb lol.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> This is going to be the most ******ed suggestion ever lol but..
> 
> Have you tried going to the left and the right side of your main monitor to get it to the 2nd monitor? Like just cos your monitor is on the left side doesn't mean it will be to the left side of the main screen with the mouse to get to it, try right side. Told you it was dumb lol.


lol it may sound dumb but that worked, is it possible to switch?

Edit - lol I am dumb, switched it round in windows

Thanks


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> lol it may sound dumb but that worked, is it possible to switch?
> 
> Edit - lol I am dumb, switched it round in windows
> 
> Thanks


No worries lol.


----------



## Duffsta82

http://imgur.com/T1LSR

Hey guys here's some pictures of my problems i have.
BLB is it fixable or to bad to fix do you think?
The image retention is at 72hz/96hz/120hz in those pictures but also gets some image retention at 60hz but not as bad.
Also the green & grey colored background show some random dark bar type image thing that shows up when overclocked past 60hz this is before image retention sets in seems the left side of my screen plays up with that those bars and image retention is a problem right side not so bad









what do you guys think? also my stand doesn't fit ive gotta get around to fixing it before it fells over due to stand being dodgey.

Also the image retention goes away after about 5 mins when playing a fast paces game..
Gets up to 130hz same to send back due to retention what do u guys think?


----------



## Duffsta82

Guys i can get a Spyder 3 Express Calibrator really cheap is it worth it??

seems like it will calibrate colors fine but doesn't do brightness is there any point in it since iam wanting to calibrate 120hz colors are **** and its to dark.
Could i just use the Spyder 3 for the colors and do the brightness by hand??


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> FYI, no multi input version has been shown to overclock as of yet, and many have been shown not to overclock.


http://www.technologyx.com/pc-hardware/display/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/3/

This review shows two multi-input qx2710's overclocking to 120Hz. See page 2 for the pictures of the multi-input Qnix. They mention that overclocking only worked when using the DL-DVI port on the monitor, unsure about if it overclocks on DisplayPort.

I saw a few other people successfully overclocking multi-input versions when I was looking into this last week, but I didn't get to take down those posts.


----------



## rwong48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You could actually just get an active DL-DVI to mini-DP adapter and it will work with your Mac. The matte coating is very light on this monitor and is considered semi-glossy.
> 
> If you don't need another monitor and just want to connect your X-Star to your Mac, I suggest just getting a refund and buying an active adapter.


Yeah, I thought about doing that, but those things are quite costly (and who knows if they will work). Is there a recommended one in this thread somewhere?

Part of the reason for getting another monitor was (sadly) by letting my Windows machine to fall back to a 1440p display instead of a 1080p one, my window positions wouldn't get screwed up. But if the multi-input version won't OC, it's completely out of the question.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> FYI, no multi input version has been shown to overclock as of yet, and many have been shown not to overclock.


Thank you, that is a huge decider for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> http://www.technologyx.com/pc-hardware/display/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/3/
> 
> This review shows two multi-input qx2710's overclocking to 120Hz. See page 2 for the pictures of the multi-input Qnix. They mention that overclocking only worked when using the DL-DVI port on the monitor, unsure about if it overclocks on DisplayPort.
> 
> I saw a few other people successfully overclocking multi-input versions when I was looking into this last week, but I didn't get to take down those posts.


Interesting. I wouldn't be surprised if OC was DVI-only.

Now I'm still a bit undecided on what to do. Maybe I should look into active mDP->DVI-DL adapters and try to find one that "will" work.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> http://www.technologyx.com/pc-hardware/display/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/3/
> 
> This review shows two multi-input qx2710's overclocking to 120Hz. See page 2 for the pictures of the multi-input Qnix. They mention that overclocking only worked when using the DL-DVI port on the monitor, unsure about if it overclocks on DisplayPort.
> 
> I saw a few other people successfully overclocking multi-input versions when I was looking into this last week, but I didn't get to take down those posts.


That review doesn't validate their overclock. It only states that they set the resolution + refresh rate, but the same has been the case with all previous multi-input "overclocks". Further testing of the panel itself has shown that despite the GPU and software side of things was working as intended (sending 120hz to the monitor) the monitor itself was not in fact displaying 120fps, but rather 60 fps and skipping every other frame.

So pardon my doubt on their results. I until someone captures a valid test (a la http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping), then I will treat any claims of overclocking with a healthy dose of skepticism. Especially since that particular mode of failure (frameskipping of multi-inputs at >60hz signals) is well known, well-documented and very common.

I did notice that the CrossOver Black Tune 2755 thread has some claims of overclocking as well - I intend to investigate that further as one of the members actually has a multi-input "overclocked" monitor - as of now, I will treat that as an unconfirmed report.


----------



## derek0309

To people who have experience in returning these monitors to South Korea for refund or exchange. What is the procedure? If the seller agrees to pay for all the shipping, would the seller arrange a pick-up for me or do I ship it first and report the shipping fees? Also do I need to wrap the monitor back in the bubble wrap that comes with it? Thanks a lot!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derek0309*
> 
> To people who have experience in returning these monitors to South Korea for refund or exchange. What is the procedure? If the seller agrees to pay for all the shipping, would the seller arrange a pick-up for me or do I ship it first and report the shipping fees? Also do I need to wrap the monitor back in the bubble wrap that comes with it? Thanks a lot!


I had to return an IPS to a korean seller. He eventually agreed to pay for return shipping and gave me his fedex acct number and I arranged return shipping.


----------



## Duffsta82

Which seller & whats the reason your sending it back?
I had to return my first xstar to dream-seller he paid for shipping back and refunded me within 1 week i just dropped it off at fedex for him, Didn't even bubble wrap it since he didn't on the way over & already had a hole in the box, you could bubble wrap it though up to you.


----------



## derek0309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I had to return an IPS to a korean seller. He eventually agreed to pay for return shipping and gave me his fedex acct number and I arranged return shipping.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duffsta82*
> 
> Which seller & whats the reason your sending it back?
> I had to return my first xstar to dream-seller he paid for shipping back and refunded me within 1 week i just dropped it off at fedex for him, Didn't even bubble wrap it since he didn't on the way over & already had a hole in the box, you could bubble wrap it though up to you.


Thanks.
I ordered from excellentcastle and the problem is the 2 pictures I posted few pages back, I dont know whether those are dusts or dead pixels. However, the customer service from excelletcastle is the best out of all sellers imo, quickest response(still only one a day tho), saw my pictures, agree to do an exchange or refund a discount.. I am still waiting for his reply regarding the exchange procedure. He also marked the item for only $80 so I did not have to pay a lot of duties (I live in Canada).


----------



## stolemyowncar

I think I'm going to try out ipsledmonitors.com. 30 bucks more, yeah, but looking at the member experiences on the first page of this topic it seems to be mostly positive.


----------



## Duffsta82

derek0309, the picture you posted looks like dead pixels, At least these Korean sellers are keeping to there word as advertised







he will contact you with the procedure.


----------



## thr33niL

Ordered a "pixel perfect" QNIX from red-cap on Saturday. Already shipped and could be here as early as Wednesday. Crossing my fingers.


----------



## Sir Unreal

I have a new problem:

After a few hours of use my Windows 7 freezes at about twice a minute for 6-7 seconds - even the mouse pointer is not usable.
What is that? Does anyone had this before?
I will try the new nvidia driver (from today, 2013/10/21) and I will stop all services and processes one after another.

What I changed since the Qnix is plugged in: Nvidia driver, Intel INF update, Firefox 24, the patch for higher frame rates, CRU config.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> This is going to be the most ******ed suggestion ever lol but..
> 
> Have you tried going to the left and the right side of your main monitor to get it to the 2nd monitor? Like just cos your monitor is on the left side doesn't mean it will be to the left side of the main screen with the mouse to get to it, try right side. Told you it was dumb lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> lol it may sound dumb but that worked, is it possible to switch?
> 
> Edit - lol I am dumb, switched it round in windows
> 
> Thanks


Gave me a huge laugh guys. Good to know it worked anyways.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duffsta82*
> 
> Guys i can get a Spyder 3 Express Calibrator really cheap is it worth it??
> 
> seems like it will calibrate colors fine but doesn't do brightness is there any point in it since iam wanting to calibrate 120hz colors are **** and its to dark.
> Could i just use the Spyder 3 for the colors and do the brightness by hand??


How cheap exactly? The darkening is not brightness loss as much as it is gamma shift. The actual brightness loss is less than a click of brightness, something not really noticeable. Calibrating for brightness (white luminance) is a bad idea as it will block out brighter colors and keep the same black level, reducing the contrast ratio (difference between brightest white and darkest black).

If it's not that cheap compared to a Spyder4Express, save your money, take the time to learn about color calibration (if you opt for the basic packages where it's recommended to use 3rd-party software), then buy a colorimeter. Alternatively, the basic software is enough to get you by for the first calibration but I wouldn't count on its accuracy too much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That review doesn't validate their overclock. It only states that they set the resolution + refresh rate, but the same has been the case with all previous multi-input "overclocks". Further testing of the panel itself has shown that despite the GPU and software side of things was working as intended (sending 120hz to the monitor) the monitor itself was not in fact displaying 120fps, but rather 60 fps and skipping every other frame.
> 
> So pardon my doubt on their results. I until someone captures a valid test (a la http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping), then I will treat any claims of overclocking with a healthy dose of skepticism. Especially since that particular mode of failure (frameskipping of multi-inputs at >60hz signals) is well known, well-documented and very common.
> 
> I did notice that the CrossOver Black Tune 2755 thread has some claims of overclocking as well - I intend to investigate that further as one of the members actually has a multi-input "overclocked" monitor - as of now, I will treat that as an unconfirmed report.


The 2735 or 2755 is on its way to being confirmed as frameskipping. I'll link you when I know.


----------



## Profwoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwong48*
> 
> I got a glossy X-Star DVI-only a few months ago, and it's been running at 120Hz great.
> 
> I want the DisplayPort version, as much as I am a DVI+Windows guy, it'd be nice to hook up my work Mac to it. I wish I knew the DP version existed when I bought it..
> 
> But it seems like no one can buy the glossy version nowadays? Whenever I try to buy (last time from dream-seller, this time from accessorieswhole), they tell me that there's a shortage, and to try to switch me to matte. Why are their auctions still up? Other people experience this too, right?
> 
> This guy even tried getting me to buy a different monitor/panel, but I want the PLS one. Gotta have dat 120Hz (although I probably won't be getting it with the Mac mDP.. 120Hz with only Windows DVI will be fine)
> 
> Last time, I said I'd just wait, and it shipped in like 2 days. Not sure if the same thing will happen this time. Should I switch to matte or call his bluff? Honestly, I still want glossy, but my past 10 monitors have been matte and they were fine. I think glossy has an extra punch to it.


I just ordered a glossy X-Star this morning from dream-seller and didn't hear anything about it being out of stock. Maybe I got lucky, or have some bad news coming.


----------



## caenlen

Gsync modules come out next month, Nvidia said it will cost about $79, and some monitors will support a manual install of it as long as you own a modern Nvidia GPU. Anyone here from OCN who owns a QNIX OC'd care to try this mod out and risk the $79 investment?

because if it works out... victory will be mine xD 1440p 108hz with gsync... /drool


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> Gsync modules come out next month, Nvidia said it will cost about $79, and some monitors will support a manual install of it as long as you own a modern Nvidia GPU. Anyone here from OCN who owns a QNIX OC'd care to try this mod out and risk the $79 investment?
> 
> because if it works out... victory will be mine xD 1440p 108hz with gsync... /drool


I thought it was only compatible on 1080p 120 Hz native monitors?











Just no way I'm going back to 1080p now that I've seen 1440.

*EDIT - Update*

Eventually for "*Select*' monitors and various resolutions.
Quote:


> *Q: What are the resolutions of G-SYNC monitors?*
> A: NVIDIA G-SYNC enabled monitors will be available in a variety of resolutions from 1920x1080, to 2560x1440 to 4Kx2K. The ASUS VG248QE NVIDIA G-SYNC enabled monitor has a max resolution of 1920x1080.


Quote:


> *Q: What display companies are planning on introducing G-SYNC monitors?*
> A: Many of the industry's leading monitor manufacturers have already included G-SYNC in their product roadmaps for 2014. Among the first planning to roll out the technology are *ASUS, BenQ, Phillips and ViewSonic.*


It's safe to say you can tack on $175 to current monitor prices in addition to their current cost when they come enabled.
Quote:


> *Q: How much more does G-SYNC add to the cost of a monitor?*
> A: The NVIDIA G-SYNC Do-it-yourself kit will cost approximately *$175*.


Doesn't work for all games.
Quote:


> *Q: Does NVIDIA G-SYNC work for all games?*
> A: NVIDIA G-SYNC works with all games. However, we have found some games that do not behave well and for those games we recommend that users take advantage of our control panel's ability to disable G-SYNC per game. Games that NVIDIA discovers that have trouble with G-SYNC will be disabled by default in our driver.


The G-Sync Kit is only for specific monitor you can add on.
Quote:


> *Q: When will I be able to purchase this?*
> A: The NVIDIA G-SYNC Do-it-yourself kits for the ASUS VG248QE monitor will be available for purchase later this year. We will have more information to come on how and when to get G-SYNC enabled monitors in the future.


SO it's not for the Korean monitors. Here's the link of FAQ's - http://www.geforce.com/hardware/technology/g-sync/faq


----------



## Darkshowdo

Well i order a Qnix on Sat.. I just hope it gets here and works good,


----------



## stolemyowncar

Does anyone know how the Qnix matte monitors compare to other monitors' matte finishes? Like is the Qnix's light, or slight, or what?


----------



## tonyay163

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has tried using a DVI-D dual link to HDMI cable to plug it into a laptop? My friends and I each bought one and two of them are using laptops: Lenovo Y570 and Lenovo Y580 but when they plug it in, it does not display at all. Then they go into Window's Screen Resolution, they try to change the settings but when they try to save, it says "Unable to save display settings". Does anyone know what the problem is?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyay163*
> 
> Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has tried using a DVI-D dual link to HDMI cable to plug it into a laptop? My friends and I each bought one and two of them are using laptops: Lenovo Y570 and Lenovo Y580 but when they plug it in, it does not display at all. Then they go into Window's Screen Resolution, they try to change the settings but when they try to save, it says "Unable to save display settings". Does anyone know what the problem is?


DL-DVI is incompatible with HDMI. You may be able to run it at a lower refresh rate than 60hz; try 40hz.


----------



## Feyla

Ordered a pixel perfect Qnix from dream-seller (non-pixel perfect was only £10 less so thought why not). I'm in the UK, does it come with a power adapter or do I need to get one?

Excited


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Ordered a pixel perfect Qnix from dream-seller (non-pixel perfect was only £10 less so thought why not). I'm in the UK, does it come with a power adapter or do I need to get one?
> 
> Excited


You get that from ebay?


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> You get that from ebay?


Yes eBay, and dream-seller just told me that it doesn't come with an adapter. I'm not sure what I need to get, is it type C to type G? Can anyone confirm, thanks.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Yes eBay, and dream-seller just told me that it doesn't come with an adapter. I'm not sure what I need to get, is it type C to type G? Can anyone confirm, thanks.


does Uk use same plug as US ? I used a standard power supply cable (im in US)


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Yes eBay, and dream-seller just told me that it doesn't come with an adapter. I'm not sure what I need to get, is it type C to type G? Can anyone confirm, thanks.


Mine came with an adapter plug but to my knowledge just a regular kettle lead will plug into the brick and work.


----------



## ya mother

Anyone got any pics of a tempered glass Monitor and a glossy one please?


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Yes eBay, and dream-seller just told me that it doesn't come with an adapter. I'm not sure what I need to get, is it type C to type G? Can anyone confirm, thanks.


South Korea uses the same round 2 pin type F plug as used in continental Europe, so you just need a Euro to UK adapter....


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> does Uk use same plug as US ? I used a standard power supply cable (im in US)


No, I don't think so
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Mine came with an adapter plug but to my knowledge just a regular kettle lead will plug into the brick and work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> South Korea uses the same round 2 pin type F plug as used in continental Europe, so you just need a Euro to UK adapter....


Thanks, ordered one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KMF8DM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hopefully that'll do the job


----------



## mboner1

So i'm noticing that after calibrating with the spyder elite 3 if i test like 24 hours later i'm getting different results. Gamma varies , calibrated at 2.20 and if i check the calibration 24 hours later it shows 2.28, i was calibrated at 6500k now showing 6350k so slightly to warm. This is all at 96hz , at 60hz and with all other monitors i haven't had this issue, is it likely that the 96hz is the culprit for a truly inconsistent image or could it just be confusing the spyder into reading it wrong?? I pass all the test patterns etc... Just very irritating having it always read different. If i do a recal it will generally make it slightly brighter than the last (gamma back to 2.2) with the same color curve.


----------



## vs17

Pulled the trigger on a QNIX matte from green-sum yesterday. Went with the *pixel perfect* version for $10 more; scam or not, I figured it was worth a shot. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111073520913

Even with pixel perfect from green-sum the end cost was slightly less than the ones advertised by accessorieswhole and available on amazon/newegg. I was debating between these two sellers for a long time and decided it wouldn't make much of a difference in the end. Here's hoping it arrives this week before Batman and without any dead pixels or bad bleeding.

I'm very excited. I've been using a 1080p projector as my main computer monitor for the last 2 years, but all this talk of 1440p was too enticing to pass up.

*A question for current owners*, how does this thing handle FPS games like BF3 or Counter-Strike? I'm a little worried about the 8ms response time causing slight blur in fast motion play.


----------



## Ghost12

My base stand is skewy to my screen, not usually ocd but its getting on my nerves lol


----------



## Darkshowdo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vs17*
> 
> *A question for current owners*, how does this thing handle FPS games like BF3 or Counter-Strike? I'm a little worried about the 8ms response time causing slight blur in fast motion play.


From what ive been reading and showing its seems it is not notciable at all.

I also order a qnix on sat. Hopefully it get here soon, but i got mine from Amazon due to if anything goes wrong hopefully i have there back to help me.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> From what ive been reading and showing its seems it is not notciable at all.
> 
> I also order a qnix on sat. Hopefully it get here soon, but i got mine from Amazon due to if anything goes wrong hopefully i have there back to help me.


I agree, coming from a standard 60hz TN panel, it's awesome!


----------



## bmancreations

Ok guys, I now got my second X-Star monitor and it looks perfect, just like my first.

Now I want to attach these to a desk mount, how do I remove the stand from the monitor? This might be in the first FAQ post, but want to confirm here.


----------



## thr33niL

My QNIX is in the country, has cleared customs and hopefully will be on my doorstep tomorrow!

Quick question. I plan on overclocking it but is there really any benefit of pushing it to 120Hz if you don't ever plan on running 120FPS? I have a 7950 and at that resolution, I doubt I'll ever see any modern game push close to that many frames.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thr33niL*
> 
> My QNIX is in the country, has cleared customs and hopefully will be on my doorstep tomorrow!
> 
> Quick question. I plan on overclocking it but is there really any benefit of pushing it to 120Hz if you don't ever plan on running 120FPS? I have a 7950 and at that resolution, I doubt I'll ever see any modern game push close to that many frames.


I am running both of my at 96hz simply because within Windows, its just so smooth when moving windows and all that. I don't even care about any content that I watch.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thr33niL*
> 
> My QNIX is in the country, has cleared customs and hopefully will be on my doorstep tomorrow!
> 
> Quick question. I plan on overclocking it but is there really any benefit of pushing it to 120Hz if you don't ever plan on running 120FPS? I have a 7950 and at that resolution, I doubt I'll ever see any modern game push close to that many frames.


Yes because:
1) Smoother when browsing web
2) Older games get 120Hz goodness
3) No tearing if your game framerate goes above 60Hz (i think this happens, not sure)
4) Quite a few colour profiles have been made for OCed monitors so you can find whatever looks best
5) E-peen.


----------



## shaolin95

So, a small side story...I am a photography fan and the Qnix has certainly improved my editing.
My latest set of pictures got a lot more positive feedback than ever before thanks to the Qnix (and x-rite) calibration.
So not only gaming is good with it for sure!









Here is one of my favorites And sorry if it feels out of topic but this is the main reason I bought the Qnix for and I am glad to see results right away!








http://www.flickr.com/photos/lgabrielg/10395380345/
I want one! by GabrielG2k11, on Flickr


----------



## Darkshowdo

That is a very pretty picture for sure.

Im quite excited going from a TN to PLS

Im ready to see the new colors.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Ok guys, I now got my second X-Star monitor and it looks perfect, just like my first.
> 
> Now I want to attach these to a desk mount, how do I remove the stand from the monitor? This might be in the first FAQ post, but want to confirm here.


4.30 in on this you tube video


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> That is a very pretty picture for sure.
> 
> Im quite excited going from a TN to PLS
> 
> Im ready to see the new colors.


Oh you will...its a thing of beauty!








Thanks


----------



## blunden

Am I correct in assuming all figures or text other than the logo are just stickers on both the Qnix and X-star?

Since there seem to be slight differences between the older images and newer ones I can't really judge it solely based on those.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thr33niL*
> 
> My QNIX is in the country, has cleared customs and hopefully will be on my doorstep tomorrow!
> 
> Quick question. I plan on overclocking it but is there really any benefit of pushing it to 120Hz if you don't ever plan on running 120FPS? I have a 7950 and at that resolution, I doubt I'll ever see any modern game push close to that many frames.


Yep there is a benefit, but mostly for FPS games. I've gotten back to playing BF3 ever since I got my Qnix a few days ago. The main benefits would be smoother movements and less input lag. Even if I'm getting somewhere between 60~90FPS on my 7950 with lowered settings, the 120Hz really helps.

For the most part, it isn't as noticeable in MMO/MOBA games, though you'll notice some added smoothness to moving your camera and some animations/movements.

In movies/shows/anime, you may notice less motion blur for fast actions or less smoothness in animations that require a lower refresh rate for you to not see repeating animations (think small movements like a stomach going in and out while breathing).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> Am I correct in assuming all figures or text other than the logo are just stickers on both the Qnix and X-star?
> 
> Since there seem to be slight differences between the older images and newer ones I can't really judge it solely based on those.


It's actually not a sticker. You'd have to paint over it if you want to get rid of it.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> 4.30 in on this you tube video


That's crazy, that's the only way to do it, wow, what if I don't want to take apart my perfect panel.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> That's crazy, that's the only way to do it, wow, what if I don't want to take apart my perfect panel.


HACKSAW!!!!


----------



## junkrok

So are people overclocking the display port models now? I'm curious if these companies will eventually move over to display port only and how that would effect the possibility of OC'ing.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> That's crazy, that's the only way to do it, wow, what if I don't want to take apart my perfect panel.


It's really not that bad, i didn't want to do it either, but it only took 5 mins, finding a vesa stand i felt comfortable with was the hard part lol.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> It's really not that bad, i didn't want to do it either, but it only took 5 mins, finding a vesa stand i felt comfortable with was the hard part lol.


Yea it does seem easy enough, I was just surprised that was what was needed to be done.


----------



## stolemyowncar

Question for you folks buying it off of Ebay, does it take a while for the status of the package to be displayed after they get the tracking number together? I ordered mine yesterday and they gave me a tracking number yesterday but there's no status on it yet.

I did look at ipsled, but the entire thing seemed like one huge scam to me to get like 50 more bucks out of you.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> Question for you folks buying it off of Ebay, does it take a while for the status of the package to be displayed after they get the tracking number together? I ordered mine yesterday and they gave me a tracking number yesterday but there's no status on it yet.
> 
> I did look at ipsled, but the entire thing seemed like one huge scam to me to get like 50 more bucks out of you.


yeah ive had it damn near show up before it activated the tracking. ANd yeah I think ipsled is a scam


----------



## thr33niL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> Question for you folks buying it off of Ebay, does it take a while for the status of the package to be displayed after they get the tracking number together? I ordered mine yesterday and they gave me a tracking number yesterday but there's no status on it yet.I did look at ipsled, but the entire thing seemed like one huge scam to me to get like 50 more bucks out of you.


Mine shipped with DHL and tracking it with eBay didn't show anything new. Kept saying "unconfirmed". But when I tracked directly on the DHL site, it already ha passed through a number of Korean sorting stations and left for the states.


----------



## OQOQ

Just set up my QNIX, no dead pixels or noticeable bleed. However, i can only OC it to 81hz, at 82 or higher the entire screen is just a mess of scrambled colours, static and lines. From what i have read people tend to notice some lines showing up when an OC is not stable, not the entire screen freaking out. Anyone have any advice on what could be the issue? or what i could do to get up to 96 or 120hz?

I had read that replacing the cheap included DVI cable can help?

I am running the screen off a GTX460 (yes due to be replaced) in Windows 8 64 if that makes a difference,


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OQOQ*
> 
> Just set up my QNIX, no dead pixels or noticeable bleed. However, i can only OC it to 81hz, at 82 or higher the entire screen is just a mess of scrambled colours, static and lines. From what i have read people tend to notice some lines showing up when an OC is not stable, not the entire screen freaking out. Anyone have any advice on what could be the issue? or what i could do to get up to 96 or 120hz?
> 
> I had read that replacing the cheap included DVI cable can help?
> 
> I am running the screen off a GTX460 (yes due to be replaced) in Windows 8 64 if that makes a difference,


lower your pixel clock. on the left side of cru try 48 32 12, on the right side try 231

try that for 96hz

sry dont have a pic right now on my laptop eating dinner.

Speaking of cables Im tired of the one that came with the monitor, for some reason I cant get it to screw in to the monitor, it screws in to the gfx card fine.

Also i'd like to get the other 3 hz and be at 120.

Is this cable my best bet? http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-24AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B003L11FIQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382479080&sr=8-2&keywords=monoprice+dvi+dual+link

was just reading the comments on this one even though its 28 awg (thinner) The first comment is a guy saying these work for 120hz better than other cables, it is like 10$ cheaper too I might go for it over the monprice one.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Ferrites-Copper/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1382479800&sr=8-8&keywords=24awg+dvi+dual+link

went ahead and ordered it for 8$ and free prime shipping (no tax yay idk what is up with amazon some times they charge tax some times they don't) should be here Thursday i'll update on how it works


----------



## semajha

Any other thoughts/experiences with the text's sharpness/readability? I plan on using this monitor for web development.

Looking forward to a new a monitor with sharp text because my current monitor(apple cinema display 23") has such a heavy anti-glare coat on it... Makes the text fuzzy/sparkly... I realize that they're a two screen options. One being matte and the other being glossy. If I go with glossy I wouldn't have to worry about any anti-glare coating or would I?


----------



## Remmib

The text looks perfectly fine for me with the matte coating.


----------



## semajha

I've always preferred matte for color accuracy but since I'll be using my apple display as a secondary display, I can use that for color reference. I want to have the sharpest and best text display possible so I'm pretty sure on the glossy.

What's the deal with tempered glass?


----------



## raclimja

i am thinking of buying either the QNIX QX2710 or X-STAR DP2710LED.

my computer is Alienware m17x R3 i7 2920XM w/ Radeon HD 6990m 2GB (8.851.2.0 GPU driver)

it has HDMI out and mini display port out.

my question is is it possible to overclock the QNIX or X-STAR?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> I've always preferred matte for color accuracy but since I'll be using my apple display as a secondary display, I can use that for color reference. I want to have the sharpest and best text display possible so I'm pretty sure on the glossy.
> 
> What's the deal with tempered glass?


The other day someone's tempered glass fell off their monitor. Underneath was a matte panel. So from that sample size of 1, it seems the tempered glass models just have a sheet of glass over a matte panel.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> I've always preferred matte for color accuracy but since I'll be using my apple display as a secondary display, I can use that for color reference. I want to have the sharpest and best text display possible so I'm pretty sure on the glossy.
> 
> What's the deal with tempered glass?


Tempered glass is supposed to be a sheet of glass over a *glossy* panel. I assume the person got a matte panel due to the short supply of glossy panels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raclimja*
> 
> i am thinking of buying either the QNIX QX2710 or X-STAR DP2710LED.
> 
> my computer is Alienware m17x R3 i7 2920XM w/ Radeon HD 6990m 2GB (8.851.2.0 GPU driver)
> 
> it has HDMI out and mini display port out.
> 
> my question is is it possible to overclock the QNIX or X-STAR?


From what I read, multi-input monitors will overclock, but it has to be over the DL-DVI port on the monitor. I haven't seen anyone try it via DisplayPort. I can confirm that the DL-DVI port will work with an active DL-DVI to mini-DP adapter, though I'm unsure if it supports overclocking.

I've tried using a passive DL-DVI to DP adapter with another DP to mini-DP adapter and I could not get the patched 120Hz option to show up on CCC, it would only show up when I attached the cable to my 7950's DL-DVI port.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> The other day someone's tempered glass fell off their monitor. Underneath was a matte panel. So from that sample size of 1, it seems the tempered glass models just have a sheet of glass over a matte panel.


Na, mines a glossy with tempered glass bought from accessorieswhole. Definitely not matte underneath the glass, i messaged and confirmed before buying as well.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

how successful have people been with the tape mod in removing BLB? The pictures in the OP don't show anything at all on how to properly do it..... I'm starting to get annoyed at my blb.


----------



## JE14

Unfortunately I'm having a bit of a problem with my Qnix monitor







. I was on the computer yesterday when all of a sudden the screen turned black and the blue power light seemed to fade in and out. I have been unable to get any picture whatsoever since. I can only see the backlight of the monitor and the blue light stays on when powered on but besides that it's just a black screen. Tested video card with another monitor and it's fine. I bought it in August on ebay so I highly doubt there's anything the seller will be willing to do about it. I'm hoping anybody out there has any suggestions. Thanks.


----------



## dzap

just wanted to share my findings.

Upgraded from 5850 to gtx580. 110hz max stable oc on x-star went to 120hz stable oc


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE14*
> 
> Unfortunately I'm having a bit of a problem with my Qnix monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was on the computer yesterday when all of a sudden the screen turned black and the blue power light seemed to fade in and out. I have been unable to get any picture whatsoever since. I can only see the backlight of the monitor and the blue light stays on when powered on but besides that it's just a black screen. Tested video card with another monitor and it's fine. I bought it in August on ebay so I highly doubt there's anything the seller will be willing to do about it. I'm hoping anybody out there has any suggestions. Thanks.


it has only been two months i'd message them. I know you can do an ebay case within 45 days so you are likely screwed on that respect.

Might be able to do a chargeback with the credit card since it failed so quick.

Were you overclocking? just curious.


----------



## JE14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> it has only been two months i'd message them. I know you can do an ebay case within 45 days so you are likely screwed on that respect.
> 
> Might be able to do a chargeback with the credit card since it failed so quick.
> 
> Were you overclocking? just curious.


I was only OC up to 110hz max but that was rare. I usually just left it as it stock. I sent green-sum a message, but I really don't look forward to paying the steep shipping fees if it can't be fixed. If I let the monitor go to sleep I can wake it up by pressing a key from the keyboard but only the backlight comes on. Really disappointed as I had no issues prior to this. Do you think it could possibly be the power brick? I saw someone on youtube claim he fixed a similar problem with a new power brick but his display still showed some video.


----------



## kaiju

Is there anyway you can test your refresh rate in-game?

I've tried the UFO tests but they don't seem consistent as Chrome can do 120hz in windowed mode and downclocks to 60hz in fullscreen. Firefox can do 120hz but it says it's having issues with the latest version.


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Is there anyway you can test your refresh rate in-game?
> 
> I've tried the UFO tests but they don't seem consistent as Chrome can do 120hz in windowed mode and downclocks to 60hz in fullscreen. Firefox can do 120hz but it says it's having issues with the latest version.


If you have 2 monitors running the test will not work. Disable your second monitor and run the testufo, it should work....


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE14*
> 
> I was only OC up to 110hz max but that was rare. I usually just left it as it stock. I sent green-sum a message, but I really don't look forward to paying the steep shipping fees if it can't be fixed. If I let the monitor go to sleep I can wake it up by pressing a key from the keyboard but only the backlight comes on. Really disappointed as I had no issues prior to this. Do you think it could possibly be the power brick? I saw someone on youtube claim he fixed a similar problem with a new power brick but his display still showed some video.


Try a power supply first but if not then get a replacement pcb from the seller and swap it out yourself.


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> If you have 2 monitors running the test will not work. Disable your second monitor and run the testufo, it should work....


Ah, I see. So if I play games, I should disable my second monitor as well?

Just tested Chrome with a single screen and it keeps my refresh rate in fullscreen. Thanks!

Edit: Just found out about Windows Key+P. Awesome.


----------



## OQOQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> lower your pixel clock. on the left side of cru try 48 32 12, on the right side try 231
> 
> try that for 96hz
> 
> sry dont have a pic right now on my laptop eating dinner.
> 
> Speaking of cables Im tired of the one that came with the monitor, for some reason I cant get it to screw in to the monitor, it screws in to the gfx card fine.
> 
> Also i'd like to get the other 3 hz and be at 120.
> 
> Is this cable my best bet? http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-24AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B003L11FIQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382479080&sr=8-2&keywords=monoprice+dvi+dual+link
> 
> was just reading the comments on this one even though its 28 awg (thinner) The first comment is a guy saying these work for 120hz better than other cables, it is like 10$ cheaper too I might go for it over the monprice one.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-Ferrites-Copper/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1382479800&sr=8-8&keywords=24awg+dvi+dual+link
> 
> went ahead and ordered it for 8$ and free prime shipping (no tax yay idk what is up with amazon some times they charge tax some times they don't) should be here Thursday i'll update on how it works


Hey i tried what you suggested but no luck, are you able to post a screen of your settings please?


----------



## Feyla

Ordered Qnix from dream-seller yesterday. 24 hours later emailed to ask when they were planning to dispatch, they said not until the day after tomorrow (Friday). Is that normal? I thought it was 1 day dispatch. I was hoping to get it this week won't happen now.









The waiting game sucks!


----------



## Darkshowdo

Dont worry my friend, its kinda normal.

I order my last Friday, Didnt get sent till yesterday.
Fedex says monday it will be here. But its already here in the US, So i think it be here this week.

I was told it takes about 2-3 business day to ship cause they check it before shipment.


----------



## flv1333

I just took the leap and ordered myself a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II from Ebay. (red-cap) Hopefully it will arrive without a hitch.


----------



## JE14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Try a power supply first but if not then get a replacement pcb from the seller and swap it out yourself.


Thanks. I see you had a DOA monitor and managed to fix it with a new pcb. May I ask what seller you bought from?


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE14*
> 
> Thanks. I see you had a DOA monitor and managed to fix it with a new pcb. May I ask what seller you bought from?


Yes, was accesorieswhole. Was not quite doa, was 48hrs after.


----------



## thr33niL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> I just took the leap and ordered myself a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II from Ebay. (red-cap) Hopefully it will arrive without a hitch.


I did the same (from red-cap) last weekend. He had it shipped out on Monday so pretty quick out the door. Mine is in Seattle right now and might get to me today or at the latest, tomorrow. I'll post some pics of the packaging, etc when it shows so you know what to expect.

Feels like Christmas Eve!


----------



## geogga

So currently I have the MX239H, amazing monitor with a AH-IPS, 1920.1080 and no dead pixels or BLB. So I really want to get the QNIX, and found a nice website that is in US with a pixel perfect guarantee with returns and RMAs possible. How big is the difference from going 1080 to 1440, AH-IPS to PLS/normal IPS, and possible BLB?
Want to pull the trigger, but really want a solid product with no problems, but unfortunately it's a hit or miss with these Korean stuff.
Do you think I should buy 2 monitors so if 1 has like worse BLB than the other I can return one instead of waiting and RMAing?


----------



## flv1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thr33niL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> I just took the leap and ordered myself a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II from Ebay. (red-cap) Hopefully it will arrive without a hitch.
> 
> 
> 
> I did the same (from red-cap) last weekend. He had it shipped out on Monday so pretty quick out the door. Mine is in Seattle right now and might get to me today or at the latest, tomorrow. I'll post some pics of the packaging, etc when it shows so you know what to expect.
> 
> Feels like Christmas Eve!
Click to expand...

Nice! thanks for the heads up. Mine is going to Germany, customs is notorious for taking forever to let things through (damn bureaucracy). I have also noticed that in the OP Germany has not been listed yet, so I'll post my bills as well.


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It's actually not a sticker. You'd have to paint over it if you want to get rid of it.


Really? Is that true for both the Qnix and the X-star? The LED logo looks really tacky.

What about the spec logos on the top right side? Those are stickers at least, right?


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Ordered Qnix from dream-seller yesterday. 24 hours later emailed to ask when they were planning to dispatch, they said not until the day after tomorrow (Friday). Is that normal? I thought it was 1 day dispatch. I was hoping to get it this week won't happen now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The waiting game sucks!


Post some pics up when you get it.


----------



## Jboss

Hey i just got a new graphic card and i'm trying to set the OC settings back up but it ain't working.
I went into CRU and put in the OC settings at 96hz, 110hz, 120hz and save them but when i reboot my computer they don't show up as an option.

I still have the marker of "Test Mode" on the bottom right of my screen so i don't think that's the issue.

Thanks!

For some reason i can copy the default setting but when i click "Add" and go under "LCD Reduced" or "LCD Standard" it doesn't let me paste.


----------



## Darkshowdo

Well, just found out mine is waiting at my doorstep. Will post pictures and update when i get home for my QNIX EVO 2.

Hopefully all is well with it.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> Well, just found out mine is waiting at my doorstep. Will post pictures and update when i get home for my QNIX EVO 2.
> 
> Hopefully all is well with it.


Woot woot.


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Post some pics up when you get it.


Will do


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OQOQ*
> 
> Hey i tried what you suggested but no luck, are you able to post a screen of your settings please?


----------



## thr33niL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> Well, just found out mine is waiting at my doorstep. Will post pictures and update when i get home for my QNIX EVO 2.Hopefully all is well with it.


Nice!

I was really hoping mine would come in today as well but it's almost 12:00 PST and it hasn't been updated past "arrived at delivery facility" yet. Looks like I'll most likely have to wait another grueling 30 hrs or so. Rats.


----------



## bmancreations

Is there anything that can be done about ghosting? My new second monitor is doing this, as its the one left with windows open for information, and isn't touched as often. Running at 96hz.


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> how successful have people been with the tape mod in removing BLB? The pictures in the OP don't show anything at all on how to properly do it..... I'm starting to get annoyed at my blb.


----------



## jaydoc

Hi

I just received a QNIX Q2710 from IPSLEDmonitors.com. It was supposedly an openbox product for $280. The description said 1 small bad pixel at the right edge of the monitor. However I have used those online browser-based dead pixel checkers and cannot identify any dead pixel. However I am convinced there have to a few dead pixels, after all that is the nature of this beast, isn't it?

Is there any software out there that can do this more accurately? Thanks.


----------



## geogga

If there is no problem when viewing, then there's no problem. Don't ruin your happiness by purposely trying to find a dead pixel. If you do find it like a week later, then oh well, its 1 pixel.
and BTW, I was on that website and couldn't find any open box qnix?

EDItT: NVM, saw the clearance tab, and it looks very very cheap, I found a monitor with no BLB and 1 dead pixel for $250.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Joseph Dirt*


Yup I just did it and I made some decent improvement although it is not perfect. I noticed that my metal frame was not straight either and I came up with the "brick method" on how to fix it.

Basically my metal frame was convex (bulging out) along the middle of the horizontal parts of the frame (top/bottom) So I set some bricks on that part and it helped a decent bit and I used my hands to carefully bend the rest of it in to more straight alignment.



I'm not posting any before and after pics of my backlight bleed because Honestly pictures of BLB look nothing like what it looks like to the human eye.


----------



## jaydoc

i thought so too. but i have always had a prying mind

i must add that for 270$ including shipping this openbox was a good deal. i was apprehensive at first, but my doubts melted away when i turned it on.

hopefully it lasts a good while too. thanks for the reply.


----------



## thr33niL

Dang. My QNIX arrived in Seattle at 5AM this morning, via DHL, then it took 4 hours to transfer to a delivery center. After that it had a "transferred through" Seattle tag. Now it says its back at the delivery center.

Sucky seeing how the previous 36 hours it traveled through several centers in Korea then flew all the way to Cinncinati, OH for customs, then to Seattle last night. Now that it's within driving distance, DHL is fiddle farting around with it. Oh well. Guess tomorrow will do. Was really hoping for today though.


----------



## sidewu

Is there any free games that looks nice on 1440p?


----------



## blunden

I see some people running in Test Mode to use patched drivers which isn't exactly great for security. Wouldn't it be better to generate your own trusted CA certificate that you use to sign a Code Signing certificate with? You could then sign the driver yourself each time you patch a new version and Windows should accept it in normal mode if I'm not mistaken. Not 100% sure it works when modifying .sys-files though but maybe that's not an issue in this case.

http://stackoverflow.com/questions/84847/how-do-i-create-a-self-signed-certificate-for-code-signing-on-windows/16027204#16027204

http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dd919238%28v=ws.10%29.aspx#bkmk_signstep2


----------



## Zipper Fairy

So, as far as i know, I shouldn't be getting any sort of image retention at 96Hz, as my pixel clock is only 393 (well below 450). However, it seems that I'm getting image retention in the top-right corner.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> So, as far as i know, I shouldn't be getting any sort of image retention at 96Hz, as my pixel clock is only 393 (well below 450). However, it seems that I'm getting image retention in the top-right corner.


No guarantee of presence or absence of image retention above 60hz. You got a bum panel.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> I see some people running in Test Mode to use patched drivers which isn't exactly great for security. Wouldn't it be better to generate your own trusted CA certificate that you use to sign a Code Signing certificate with? You could then sign the driver yourself each time you patch a new version and Windows should accept it in normal mode if I'm not mistaken. Not 100% sure it works when modifying .sys-files though but maybe that's not an issue in this case.
> 
> http://stackoverflow.com/questions/84847/how-do-i-create-a-self-signed-certificate-for-code-signing-on-windows/16027204#16027204
> 
> http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dd919238%28v=ws.10%29.aspx#bkmk_signstep2


Latest patchers don't need test mode


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> Really? Is that true for both the Qnix and the X-star? The LED logo looks really tacky.
> 
> What about the spec logos on the top right side? Those are stickers at least, right?


The logo at the bottom middle, specs at the top-right, and model number at the top-left are not stickers. They were printed on the bezel, so you'd have to sand them off and paint the bezel if you want them gone.

You could also go bezel-less as others have done.


----------



## Kokin

Sorry posting on my phone always double posts despite using desktop or mobile mode.


----------



## Jyve

I think I lucked out. Occasionally I'll do a CL search for 2560x1440 just to see what's available. Last week one popped up for $250. Asked the seller if it had any dead or stuck pixels. He said no, it was perfect. Asked if he'd take 225 for it. This all not knowing brand or anything.

Picked it up a few days ago and turns out its a Qnix 2710 glossy! Immediately over clocked it to 120hz and all seems to be great.

Pretty amazed at guild wars 2 at 120hz. Panning the camera around was just gorgeous.

Love this thread and all the info here. Thanks fellas! Pixel perfect for 225 bucks = win!


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The logo at the bottom middle, specs at the top-right, and model number at the top-left are not stickers. They were printed on the bezel, so you'd have to sand them off and paint the bezel if you want them gone.
> 
> You could also go bezel-less as others have done.


Seriously? Who in their right mind would think printing the specs on the frame was a good idea?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Latest patchers don't need test mode


Oh, ok. Do they do something like what I described?


----------



## kaiju

Do you guys disable your other monitors when gaming with dual screen setups?


----------



## bijan588

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Do you guys disable your other monitors when gaming with dual screen setups?


No, Why would we?


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> No, Why would we?


Just checking to see if people have any problems running 120hz with a 60hz monitor.

Do you run GPU scaling for both monitors?


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> So, as far as i know, I shouldn't be getting any sort of image retention at 96Hz, as my pixel clock is only 393 (well below 450). However, it seems that I'm getting image retention in the top-right corner.


This happened to me when I first got the monitor, running at 96hz, top-right corner just like you described.

It only seemed to showup on the desktop though, is this the same for you?

All I did to fix it was change the desktop wallpaper and it seemed to go away, hasn't come back either.

But if you're still having problems maybe try refreshing the pixels to get rid of the "burned in" image: http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html


----------



## Darkshowdo

So received my qnix today no dead pixel which is great and just slight blb.
If I'm correct by losing the panel it will solve a little of this blb from what I heard in a review.


----------



## Darkshowdo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Just checking to see if people have any problems running 120hz with a 60hz monitor.
> 
> Do you run GPU scaling for both monitors?


As for this I have no issue running two monitors with the qnix. I cannot fit two 27 on my desk so I'm using qnix and 24

Both are fine.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Just checking to see if people have any problems running 120hz with a 60hz monitor.
> 
> Do you run GPU scaling for both monitors?


Just make sure you run things within your Qnix if you want to run 120Hz without problems. If the 120Hz application moves to any of the 60Hz monitor(s), it will break the 120Hz on that app. Mostly windowed mode can trigger this.

I actually initially setup my Qnix with my portrait Eyefinity and it worked fine aside from having the lack of desk space for all 4 monitors. Patching the Qnix to 120Hz forced me to turn off Eyefinity due to my other 3 just being 60Hz monitors.

Currently have my 120Hz Qnix with a portrait 60Hz IPS and full screen has worked fine to not break 120Hz in games. Only Qnix is set to GPU scaling, though it wasn't necessary.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Just make sure you run things within your Qnix if you want to run 120Hz without problems. If the 120Hz application moves to any of the 60Hz monitor(s), it will break the 120Hz on that app. Mostly windowed mode can trigger this.
> 
> I actually initially setup my Qnix with my portrait Eyefinity and it worked fine aside from having the lack of desk space for all 4 monitors. Patching the Qnix to 120Hz forced me to turn off Eyefinity due to my other 3 just being 60Hz monitors.
> 
> Currently have my 120Hz Qnix with a portrait 60Hz IPS and full screen has worked fine to not break 120Hz in games. Only Qnix is set to GPU scaling, though it wasn't necessary.


I dont have any scaling options set in CCC. No need to set it to gpu scaling for 1440 120hz right ?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I dont have any scaling options set in CCC. No need to set it to gpu scaling for 1440 120hz right ?


It made no difference for me, so I don't think so.


----------



## kaiju

Cheers fellas, appreciate the heads up.


----------



## P1ngou1N

I will soon join the club with a Qnix from Red-Cape.
Ordered one for me and one for a friend, 320 dollars each with pixel perfect (was cheaper than the normal one so...).

I want it so bad !!


----------



## flv1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> I will soon join the club with a Qnix from Red-Cape.
> Ordered one for me and one for a friend, 320 dollars each with pixel perfect (was cheaper than the normal one so...).
> 
> I want it so bad !!


Yeah they work fast! I ordered it yesterday around 4 PM GMT+2 and this morning I got my Fedex tracking number! At the moment I'm like you, I also can't wait to have it setup


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Just make sure you run things within your Qnix if you want to run 120Hz without problems. If the 120Hz application moves to any of the 60Hz monitor(s), it will break the 120Hz on that app. Mostly windowed mode can trigger this.
> 
> I actually initially setup my Qnix with my portrait Eyefinity and it worked fine aside from having the lack of desk space for all 4 monitors. Patching the Qnix to 120Hz forced me to turn off Eyefinity due to my other 3 just being 60Hz monitors.
> 
> Currently have my 120Hz Qnix with a portrait 60Hz IPS and full screen has worked fine to not break 120Hz in games. Only Qnix is set to GPU scaling, though it wasn't necessary.


I have my setup to extended desktop to my hdtv for movies only, you saying that by doing that i'm breaking the 120hz on the qnix for media player only when i drag it back? It says it's playing at 24fps and i haven't downloaded the codecs and shiz for 120fps in media player classic anyway so if thats the only app it affects i'm all good.


----------



## skuko

offered $315 to red-cap, will see if he bites









i have a 21:9 screen, but this seems like too good to pass up lolz.


----------



## Duffsta82

*


----------



## Duffsta82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> So, as far as i know, I shouldn't be getting any sort of image retention at 96Hz, as my pixel clock is only 393 (well below 450). However, it seems that I'm getting image retention in the top-right corner.


I wouldn't call it bung mine does the same thing i even get some at 60hz but not really noticeable unless on a grey background and i really look for it.. happens after 60hz pretty bad right up to 130hz but since i use it for games that high its to fast to be getting image burn... just use 60hz or desktop


----------



## skuko

fook it, i ordered it for 330 bucks, lets see how long they take to deliver to slovakia. also, sent a message to red-cap to declare as a gift with a value of 149,99 EUR to avoid additional fees, let's see what they can do.


----------



## geogga

Can you guys tell me how it is when you receive it? I don't mind the pixels as many sellers have pixel perfect or some policy like that. Main problem for me would be the BLB, which I don't have any on my MX239h


----------



## Darkshowdo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geogga*
> 
> Can you guys tell me how it is when you receive it? I don't mind the pixels as many sellers have pixel perfect or some policy like that. Main problem for me would be the BLB, which I don't have any on my MX239h


Well most people here on OCN Receive panels with zero dead pixel but some BLB.

In most cases you can easily fix the BLB By tape fix or a little cardboard under the area of the BLB to solve the pressure issue.
Which then makes this panel perfect.

Its worth the cost savings to get this montior over name brand, as the blb can easily be fixed.


----------



## thr33niL

The wife has informed me DHL just dropped off my QNIX!

Only about 7 hours of work to go before I get to play with it.. This is going to be a looooong day.


----------



## stolemyowncar

It's a bit startling how fast these get here. I ordered mine just 3 days ago (technically less) and it's already out for delivery in my area right now. That means it's very likely to be here today.

To be honest, I'm kind of scared. Considering I've went through over 8 mainstream brand monitors that all had defects (including no less than 3 Viewsonic VP2770's), I'm kind of wondering just how bad my Qnix is going to be. With my monitor luck it won't even work! Cross your fingers and all that, I suppose.

I'm expecting it to be pretty bad, but I guess at this price I can't complain much. Dirt cheap compared to the other monitors I've been chewing through (430$+ cheaper than the Viewsonic).


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> It's a bit startling how fast these get here. I ordered mine just 3 days ago (technically less) and it's already out for delivery in my area right now. That means it's very likely to be here today.
> 
> To be honest, I'm kind of scared. Considering I've went through over 8 mainstream brand monitors that all had defects (including no less than 3 Viewsonic VP2770's), I'm kind of wondering just how bad my Qnix is going to be. With my monitor luck it won't even work! Cross your fingers and all that, I suppose.
> 
> I'm expecting it to be pretty bad, but I guess at this price I can't complain much. Dirt cheap compared to the other monitors I've been chewing through (430$+ cheaper than the Viewsonic).


You know thinking like that does not help


----------



## bmancreations

So I think everyone missed my post a few pages back...

Anything to be done about ghosting images? If I leave my second monitor as is (information displayed) it will eventually leave a burn in, which isn't really burn in but ya know.

Is that really anything to worry about, so far it seems to go away after my screensaver goes on, but its still scary.


----------



## geogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> Well most people here on OCN Receive panels with zero dead pixel but some BLB.
> 
> In most cases you can easily fix the BLB By tape fix or a little cardboard under the area of the BLB to solve the pressure issue.
> Which then makes this panel perfect.
> 
> Its worth the cost savings to get this montior over name brand, as the blb can easily be fixed.


Yea, I've seen the many videos about it, but looks confusing, because I don't even have it yet*. Do we to need specifically electric tape or can it be like masking tape or something ?


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> You know thinking like that does not help


It doesn't, but I'm going to be done with work in about 5 hours. And then I'm going to also play tennis with a coworker. Chances are I'm not even gonna get home to this thing in less than 6-7 hours. All I can do is fret and be pessimistic lol.

Edit: just been confirmed as delivered on UPS, too.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I have my setup to extended desktop to my hdtv for movies only, you saying that by doing that i'm breaking the 120hz on the qnix for media player only when i drag it back? It says it's playing at 24fps and i haven't downloaded the codecs and shiz for 120fps in media player classic anyway so if thats the only app it affects i'm all good.


Naw, I'm talking about when an application is running 60Hz+, like a Windowed-mode game. For movies/shows, I have been able to drag it back and forth since it's only running 24~30FPS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> So I think everyone missed my post a few pages back...
> 
> Anything to be done about ghosting images? If I leave my second monitor as is (information displayed) it will eventually leave a burn in, which isn't really burn in but ya know.
> 
> Is that really anything to worry about, so far it seems to go away after my screensaver goes on, but its still scary.


I also get slight image retention when using 120Hz. I don't see it when playing games or watching media, so it's not bothering me. I only really see it if there's a gray-ish solid background like when you open up a small image in Firefox and the rest of the background is showing the retained image(s).

It goes away after my monitor has been in standby/sleep, so I don't worry about it.


----------



## junkrok

Do we really need a play-by-play from everyone who is being shipped a monitor? i should create an '[Official] I just ordered a monitor, here is the most recent tracking status' thread. Don't forget to include what you ate for breakfast each day








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geogga*
> 
> Yea, I've seen the many videos about it, but looks confusing, because I don't even have it yet*. Do we to need specifically electric tape or can it be like masking tape or something ?


I thought most people were bending the frame to correct blb as that was the true cause?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I thought most people were bending the frame to correct blb as that was the true cause?


Even when bending the frame, it could still produce some BLB. The tape method allows people to incrementally fix the BLB in cases where the frame bend fix was not enough.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

got the new wire still cant do 120 hz :-(

tried with 48 32 12 and 2 3 1 -- pixel clock was 460

intermittent horizontal greeen lines across the screen. I think my pcb just doesn't like over 110hz.

The wire was sitting out in the cold, and got pretty cold so I will try later I guess doubt it will make a difference.


----------



## thuynh022

For the people who have done square trade claims. Did you have to provide a serial number? I can't find one anywhere in my monitor.


----------



## geogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Do we really need a play-by-play from everyone who is being shipped a monitor? i should create an '[Official] I just ordered a monitor, here is the most recent tracking status' thread. Don't forget to include what you ate for breakfast each day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought most people were bending the frame to correct blb as that was the true cause?


Actually both methods are used to decrease significant BLB, but I was reading on [H]ard and some dude was actually quite the idiot and apparently started to un mantle the monitor and FKed up big time.


----------



## theilya

Do I have to use two CF bridges for AMD cards to OC the monitor?


----------



## thr33niL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Do we really need a play-by-play from everyone who is being shipped a monitor? i should create an '[Official] I just ordered a monitor, here is the most recent tracking status' thread. Don't forget to include what you ate for breakfast each day


Personally I found it helpful to see how long it potentially could take to get mine in the mail. Gotta imagine that if you're here posting on the one millionth page of the thread, you are a new or soon to be owner of one of these monitors and care about the shipping process. That may just be me but still...


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> Do I have to use two CF bridges for AMD cards to OC the monitor?


From what I've read, it is recommended that you do.


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Do we really need a play-by-play from everyone who is being shipped a monitor? i should create an '[Official] I just ordered a monitor, here is the most recent tracking status' thread. Don't forget to include what you ate for breakfast each day


Because this post is so much less worthless than our play-by-plays, which may perhaps tell other worried buyers how their purchase could play out with X seller and such.

In case you didn't get it, that was sarcasm.

Also, before you start criticizing us for doing this, why don't you start to go rambling on everyone's twitter feed and Facebook page. Don't forget to make a topic about how you're doing that, and how you find this or that stupid. Oh wait, that would effectively be doing the same thing anyway. You know what, you might as well stop posting because that's some manner of a status update, whether it be your thoughts or otherwise. No one cares to hear them and we certainly don't need them (much like you don't need our "play-by-plays"), after all.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> Because this post is so much less worthless than our play-by-plays, which may perhaps tell other worried buyers how their purchase could play out with X seller and such.
> 
> In case you didn't get it, that was sarcasm.
> 
> Also, before you start criticizing us for doing this, why don't you start to go rambling on everyone's twitter feed and Facebook page. Don't forget to make a topic about how you're doing that, and how you find this or that stupid. Oh wait, that would effectively be doing the same thing anyway. You know what, you might as well stop posting because that's some manner of a status update, whether it be your thoughts or otherwise. No one cares to hear them and we certainly don't need them (much like you don't need our "play-by-plays"), after all.


rep added


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Do we really need a play-by-play from everyone who is being shipped a monitor? i should create an '[Official] I just ordered a monitor, here is the most recent tracking status' thread. Don't forget to include what you ate for breakfast each day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought most people were bending the frame to correct blb as that was the true cause?


Yeah nothing beats a post about someone *****in'' this is a ton better. Thanks!


----------



## junkrok

Well can you at least update us on who won the tennis match?

It's a monitor thread, not a UPS thread. Hang around here for a little while and see how old it gets. I try to find quality content on this 855 page thread, but I can't when every page is someone talking about waiting 4 days to receive a monitor or where the UPS guy left their box.

I now realize how futile it is to call someone out on it, as there will be another to take his place tomorrow.


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Well can you at least update us on who won the tennis match?
> 
> It's a monitor thread, not a UPS thread. Hang around here for a little while and see how old it gets. I try to find quality content on this 855 page thread, but I can't when every page is someone talking about waiting 4 days to receive a monitor or where the UPS guy left their box.
> 
> I now realize how futile it is to call someone out on it, as there will be another to take his place tomorrow.


What "quality content" are you trying to find? If you have some keywords, there happens to be a handy, dandy "Search this Thread" button at the top. I mean really this isn't any worse than "unboxing" posts or anything, and it's not really irrelevant as part of the apprehension new buyers have for this is how the Korean sellers treat their consumers in terms of shipping time, how easily it gets to the US, etc. It's quite relevant.

Also, it's not a tennis match, it's simply us hitting the ball back in forth. Mainly for fun and recreation. My coworker isn't at a level where I could seriously play against them anyway. You gotta get some exercise otherwise these office jobs take their toll on your body, regardless of how well you eat.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

So I have a strange issue. I had been overclocked to 110hz perfectly fine for awhile. Now I'm starting to have some issues, when I switch to a full screen game some times it goes all technicolor and is fixed by alt-tabbing 2-5 times. Some times games start in technicolor mode (looks like a stereotypical acid trip) some times it only happens after I've alt tabbed.

This happens with the dvi wire that came with it and the one I just got.

I'm wondering if my pcb has degraded some how as like I said 110hz was rock solid for awhile.

Maybe I should ask for a replacement PCB? I could try lowering my overclock settings but ill be pretty bummed if I can't run at atleast 110hz









come to think of it I did install the latest radeon beta driver recently and it wasn't officially released someone posted it here on OCN.

I should probably go back to the last beta driver and see if the issue remains. Hopefully not.


----------



## Kokin

The DL-DVI cable I got with the monitor is labeled:

E119932-T AWM 20276 80C 30V VW-1 COPARTNER DVI DIGITAL DUAL LINK
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> Well can you at least update us on who won the tennis match?
> 
> It's a monitor thread, not a UPS thread. Hang around here for a little while and see how old it gets. I try to find quality content on this 855 page thread, but I can't when every page is someone talking about waiting 4 days to receive a monitor or where the UPS guy left their box.
> 
> I now realize how futile it is to call someone out on it, as there will be another to take his place tomorrow.


I've been reading every post in this thread since late August/early September to get early research done before I bought this monitor and luckily there have been lots of informative posts on the optimal 120Hz settings, gamma settings, and ICC profiles. You can even use the "Search This Thread" button if you want to find something specifically.

Also, why not just skip through the shipping update posts? I found them useless as well, but the excitement of waiting is understandable and it doesn't take more than a split second to skip a post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> So I have a strange issue. I had been overclocked to 110hz perfectly fine for awhile. Now I'm starting to have some issues, when I switch to a full screen game some times it goes all technicolor and is fixed by alt-tabbing 2-5 times. Some times games start in technicolor mode (looks like a stereotypical acid trip) some times it only happens after I've alt tabbed.
> 
> This happens with the dvi wire that came with it and the one I just got.
> 
> I'm wondering if my pcb has degraded some how as like I said 110hz was rock solid for awhile.
> 
> Maybe I should ask for a replacement PCB? I could try lowering my overclock settings but ill be pretty bummed if I can't run at atleast 110hz


How does it run with just a single 7950? Have you tried switching the cards to see if the bottom one will get better results?

I have no problems with the leaked beta. Asder's betas have always worked fine for me and the one time it didn't was related to a patch in LoL, which was fixed the next patch or two.


----------



## gonsa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I thought it was only compatible on 1080p 120 Hz native monitors?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just no way I'm going back to 1080p now that I've seen 1440.
> 
> *EDIT - Update*
> 
> Eventually for "*Select*' monitors and various resolutions.
> 
> It's safe to say you can tack on $175 to current monitor prices in addition to their current cost when they come enabled.
> Doesn't work for all games.
> The G-Sync Kit is only for specific monitor you can add on.
> SO it's not for the Korean monitors. Here's the link of FAQ's - http://www.geforce.com/hardware/technology/g-sync/faq


too bad. GSync would be heaven on these monitors.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The DL-DVI cable I got with the monitor is labeled:
> 
> E119932-T AWM 20276 80C 30V VW-1 COPARTNER DVI DIGITAL DUAL LINK
> I've been reading every post in this thread since late August/early September to get early research done before I bought this monitor and luckily there have been lots of informative posts on the optimal 120Hz settings, gamma settings, and ICC profiles. You can even use the "Search This Thread" button if you want to find something specifically.
> 
> Also, why not just skip through the shipping update posts? I found them useless as well, but the excitement of waiting is understandable and it doesn't take more than a split second to skip a post.
> How does it run with just a single 7950? Have you tried switching the cards to see if the bottom one will get better results?
> 
> I have no problems with the leaked beta. Asder's betas have always worked fine for me and the one time it didn't was related to a patch in LoL, which was fixed the next patch or two.


I havent had any problems with my xfire setup related to 120hz so I'm not thinking that is it. It does seem to have started after installing the newest beta so I'll just go back a version and see if it fixes it.

hmm cant seem to find a 13.11 beta v2 listed anywhere. I'll just go back to 13.11 beta v1 I had no issues with that afaik. If that technicolor stuff keeps happening with beta v1 ill have to get a new pcb i guess


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I havent had any problems with my xfire setup related to 120hz so I'm not thinking that is it. It does seem to have started after installing the newest beta so I'll just go back a version and see if it fixes it.
> 
> hmm cant seem to find a 13.11 beta v2 listed anywhere. I'll just go back to 13.11 beta v1 I had no issues with that afaik. If that technicolor stuff keeps happening with beta v1 ill have to get a new pcb i guess


There was no 13.11 beta 2. Make sure you do a clean uninstall using ATI uninstaller or DDU. It's useful for when you go back to older drivers.

I only suggested it since you never know if it's your top GPU's DVI port that is causing the hiccups. The good part is that you're not watercooled, so it's a quick job to switch them up.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> There was no 13.11 beta 2. Make sure you do a clean uninstall using ATI uninstaller or DDU. It's useful for when you go back to older drivers.
> 
> I only suggested it since you never know if it's your top GPU's DVI port that is causing the hiccups. The good part is that you're not watercooled, so it's a quick job to switch them up.


Shouldn't be since this is the setup i've had since I got this monitor. I guess I can swap them around if the problem persists. just reinstall beta1 gonna give it a try.

edit: fired up path of exile and been alt tabbing like a mad man, no issues yet... starting to think it was def the newest beta driver. Good I didn't want to deal with a pcb issue. We shall see if my luck holds.


----------



## bijan588

Now I am a sad bijan.



http://imgur.com/Jzj2F


A word of warning, the pixel did not get stuck until after I overclocked to 96HZ. I'm not sure if that's what caused it, but just keep in mind there is a possibility this can damage our pa

Keep that in mind guys.

EDIT: I've contacted dream seller.


----------



## Darkshowdo

FIXED!


----------



## dzap

Hey guys, is there any way around to automatically reduce the GPU clocks when not gaming, while using GTX580 and patched drivers? Is there any work around?


----------



## Darkshowdo

My Last question i think..

Think it was okay for me to put some thick paper behind the monitor to push it to the bezel more so the BLB is not as bad?
Shouldn't catch on fire?


----------



## thr33niL

Got my Qnix in today and have been tinkering with it for a few hours now. Night and day vs my old monitor! I'm extremely impressed. Zero dead/stuck pixels so I did well there. I do have what I would say is average BLB for these monitors. Plus a little yellowing on the bottom right so I'm going to eventually take it apart and do some fixing. Have a different issue that I managed to snap a picture of. In an all-black screen I get some sort of off-shaded bar that runs vertical. Its hard to notice and took some work to just get a shot of it. It seems to source right out of that yellowing I spoke of and doesn't appear in any other color than all black. Any color or white, there's no sign of it. Its not a huge deal and its something I can live with if I have to but I personally think it has something to do with the panel issue (bend) that is causing the yellow. Anyone else ever experience this?


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thr33niL*
> 
> Got my Qnix in today and have been tinkering with it for a few hours now. Night and day vs my old monitor! I'm extremely impressed. Zero dead/stuck pixels so I did well there. I do have what I would say is average BLB for these monitors. Plus a little yellowing on the bottom right so I'm going to eventually take it apart and do some fixing. Have a different issue that I managed to snap a picture of. In an all-black screen I get some sort of off-shaded bar that runs vertical. Its hard to notice and took some work to just get a shot of it. It seems to source right out of that yellowing I spoke of and doesn't appear in any other color than all black. Any color or white, there's no sign of it. Its not a huge deal and its something I can live with if I have to but I personally think it has something to do with the panel issue (bend) that is causing the yellow. Anyone else ever experience this?


Mine has something like that as well, except it runs horizontally from left to right and it's more noticeable while I'm scrolling on a web page or something. Not noticeable during gameplay or anything. It's towards the bottom of the screen, a little ways up. I think I can live with that. Where I notice it most is using this web page.

Also, I did a red/black/green/blue background test. It seems I have a dead red subpixel in one spot. That's all. Since I'll rarely be ever looking at a pure red background, I think that's fine, since that's all I've seen. I haven't even ever noticed it during regular use, just pure color background tests.

This is what is bothering me the most:
I have two reasonably sized patches of backlight bleed (yellowish) that are on the very bottom middle, that's what's bothering me the4 most. To the left and right of the bottom middle. They extend a decent ways in though. Anyone got some ideas on how I should go about fixing these? They're pretty apparent on dark backgrounds and stuff regardless. Picture:



It's kind of a crappy picture but you can see those two patches. Right in between them is pretty much the center of the screen. I've tried bending the left and right side of the monitor towards me a bit. What happens is it shifts to the opposite side of the side I'm bending when I do that. I guess this might be possible to resolve using some cardboard or something. Any ideas on where to put it?

So total list of flaws:
1. Random very slightly off-color band about 30% up the screen (annoying during browsing but nothing major).
2. Dead red subpixel (really terribly minor)
3. Backlight bleed at the bottom.

Well for 320$ it's still not a bad deal. Plays games fine, though that backlight bleed is terribly noticeable on dark backgrounds... though it's not any worse than one of the Viewsonics I got. If I get it fixed this thing will be much better. Though that off-color band kind of bothers me... it's not even an accurate description since I don't know what to call it. I probably won't bother with overclocking since I don't think these are meant to do that.

Edit: Actually dead subpixel thing turned into a stuck pixel... o.o Well whatever


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> Hey guys, is there any way around to automatically reduce the GPU clocks when not gaming, while using GTX580 and patched drivers? Is there any work around?


My 7970 wasn't down clocking at idle , was sitting on 56 degrees at idle depending on ambient temps and i discovered setting it to "automatic lcd standard" in cru instead of manual has made it down clock. Now sits on 38 at idle, still a little up from 35 before the over clock. Give it a shot if it doesn't put your pixel clock any higher.


----------



## Kokin

Mine downclocks to 500Mhz regardless of being 120Hz or 60Hz. Is your ULPS disabled?

I guess you could always just use the higher refresh rates when you really need it.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Mine downclocks to 500Mhz regardless of being 120Hz or 60Hz. Is your ULPS disabled?
> 
> I guess you could always just use the higher refresh rates when you really need it.


Yeah, ulps is disabled. I just set it to auto in cru and run 96hz all the time. 60hz requires a different icc profile so i'm not switching between the 2. I decided 96hz was way better once i tried it out so i'm sticking with that. Cheers.


----------



## skuko

found this in the crossover thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1355400/if-you-own-an-nvidia-card-and-buy-a-27-korean-ips-prepare-to-take-it-up-the-rear

did anyone try to test it with a qnix/xstar and an nvidia card?


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have two reasonably sized patches of backlight bleed (yellowish) that are on the very bottom middle, that's what's bothering me the4 most. To the left and right of the bottom middle. They extend a decent ways in though. Anyone got some ideas on how I should go about fixing these? They're pretty apparent on dark backgrounds and stuff regardless. Picture:
> 
> 
> 
> It's kind of a crappy picture but you can see those two patches. Right in between them is pretty much the center of the screen. I've tried bending the left and right side of the monitor towards me a bit. What happens is it shifts to the opposite side of the side I'm bending when I do that. I guess this might be possible to resolve using some cardboard or something. Any ideas on where to put it?
> 
> So total list of flaws:
> 1. Random very slightly off-color band about 30% up the screen (annoying during browsing but nothing major).
> 2. Dead red subpixel (really terribly minor)
> 3. Backlight bleed at the bottom.
> 
> Well for 320$ it's still not a bad deal. Plays games fine, though that backlight bleed is terribly noticeable on dark backgrounds... though it's not any worse than one of the Viewsonics I got. If I get it fixed this thing will be much better. Though that off-color band kind of bothers me... it's not even an accurate description since I don't know what to call it. I probably won't bother with overclocking since I don't think these are meant to do that.
> 
> Edit: Actually dead subpixel thing turned into a stuck pixel... o.o Well whatever


^Anyone, or is it a TL;DR moment? My only real question is about the BLB, and suggestions on how to bend the panel...


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> Hey guys, is there any way around to automatically reduce the GPU clocks when not gaming, while using GTX580 and patched drivers? Is there any work around?


I have dual SLI EVGA 580 3gbs.

When I run just one I could not get it to downclock at all, except on 60hz. I think I might have been able to downclock at like 70hz or something but didn't bother.

Now, when I run in SLI I can downclock while at 96hz on desktop and it idles down to 400 not 50 like 60hz does, but it does downclock a little. So now , I run 96hz on the desktop and 120hz while gaming.

That's my experience at least, the patcher site says there are exact numbers for full downclocks etc, but i could never get it to work properly. SLI was the only thing that helped me. I've tried older patcher, older CRU, older drivers and all with the same result. Changing the hz and/or SLI was the only solution I found.


----------



## thr33niL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> ^Anyone, or is it a TL;DR moment? My only real question is about the BLB, and suggestions on how to bend the panel...


There are a few YouTube videos on panel bending and the tape fix for normal BLB. I'm going to be doing some research on this myself since it's something I will be attempting in the near future.


----------



## stolemyowncar

Is your "off-color" line visible during a straight flat color background if you look for it enough? Mine is mostly visible while scrolling through this site...


----------



## thr33niL

No. It's only visible with a all black screen. It has kind of a 3D look to it. Any color or white and it's gone. Even on the black screen you have to be looking for it.


----------



## stolemyowncar

Well, it looks like I got quite a dud of a panel then, even amongst these Korean panels. I suppose this is just my usual luck with monitors. Nothing to be surprised about since I went through 8-9 mainstream brand monitors that all had defects. I suppose considering my luck I should just be happy that it works.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> Well, it looks like I got quite a dud of a panel then, even amongst these Korean panels. I suppose this is just my usual luck with monitors. Nothing to be surprised about since I went through 8-9 mainstream brand monitors that all had defects. I suppose considering my luck I should just be happy that it works.


Chin up mate, i seen quite a few bad BLB problems be fixed with just sticking paper in there, might just be a bit of trial and error, but i think you should be able to alleviate it somewhat.


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Chin up mate, i seen quite a few bad BLB problems be fixed with just sticking paper in there, might just be a bit of trial and error, but i think you should be able to alleviate it somewhat.


Talking mainly about that weird line I have, not the BLB. I know that the BLB is generally fixable. The line is not noticeable at all while gaming but is a slight annoyance while browsing. I don't think I've ever even seen anyone even talk about a similar problem to this before. I'm not sure what the heck it is at all, or what implications it could mean in the future.

There's also one stuck pixel, but that's honestly much less than what I was expecting so whatever.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> found this in the crossover thread:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1355400/if-you-own-an-nvidia-card-and-buy-a-27-korean-ips-prepare-to-take-it-up-the-rear
> 
> did anyone try to test it with a qnix/xstar and an nvidia card?


Very interesting Skuko. This could be relative to the amount of motion blur we are seeing even at 120hz. I would give it a try but using ages old drivers with my brand new gxt770s is a no go and i would not sacrifice the support of other resolutions to run in a scaleless environment.

EDIT: this would also eliminate any chance of downsampling. If you run at 1440p all the time no matter what and have a nvidia series card 5xx series and older you might consider for faster lag.


----------



## vs17

Received my QNIX 2710 from green-sum after 2 days; South Korea to my doorstep in MD, USA. I spent the extra 10 bucks to get the *pixel perfect* version and from what I can tell there are no visible stuck or dead pixels anywhere on the screen. Maybe I am just missing them, but ignorance is bliss. BLB appears to be at a minimum as well.

This is my first nice monitor in a long time, can anyone here at OCN recommend a program or procedure I should run through to verify that this new display is in good and working order?


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vs17*
> 
> Received my QNIX 2710 from green-sum after 2 days; South Korea to my doorstep in MD, USA. I spent the extra 10 bucks to get the *pixel perfect* version and from what I can tell there are no visible stuck or dead pixels anywhere on the screen. Maybe I am just missing them, but ignorance is bliss. BLB appears to be at a minimum as well.
> 
> This is my first nice monitor in a long time, can anyone here at OCN recommend a program or procedure I should run through to verify that this new display is in good and working order?


Good luck with your new QNIX..









Check out the OP it has tons of info that will help you. Specifically the, "Overclocking Guide and Help" section. It will tell you how to run frame skip tests, etc.


----------



## inertianinja

Could I use the QNIX at 120hz with an active MiniDisplayport --> DVI adapter?


----------



## Spartan F8

I highly recommend trying out crysis 1 on this screen running at 4K downsampled. Running at [email protected] only gave me about 50FPS on ultra settings. Running at [email protected] on ultra settings gave me about 47FPS avg so it really didn't matter. Also DO NOT use regular AA with downsampling in crysis, i have tried it several times and it will create a page fault in your VRAM and bluescreen for some reason. Ambient, AASF, FXAA and others were fine and didn't kill anything just regular AA for some reason(probably more ground breaking crysis 1 coding at work).

EDIT: Skyrim looks fantastic at 4K but it does cut the FPS in half. Which is not too bad since 16xAAq did worse and downsampled at 4K still looks better.


----------



## Profwoot

So I ordered my X-Star at 8:30am Monday, and it showed up today (Friday) a little before 3pm. Not bad.

I've heard that unlike the QNIX, the X-Star clear plastic foot can be pulled off without having to take the bezel off and whatnot, but haven't been able to confirm that. Has anyone here done it that way? I'm not too eager to bust into the thing unless absolutely necessary.


----------



## blunden

Does anyone know the proper length for the screws to fit the VESA mounting holes on the back? Some mounts seem to include screws that are too long.

EDIT: I realize it might be hard to say exactly because it depends on how think the plate you are mounting it to is. Still, a rough estimate would be nice.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> Does anyone know the proper length for the screws to fit the VESA mounting holes on the back? Some mounts seem to include screws that are too long.


I used 3/8 inch screws and they seemed to work for me(my mount is about 1/16 inch thick though). Also you could always use a washer or two


----------



## caenlen

when i play some games my color profile will not work in game (chivalry medieval warfare as an example) i have c2 keeper color profile installed, and it works on desktop and all, some games my color profile i know is working, others like the game mentioned, it just will not work, its very dark...

anyway to fix this? :/

i have qnix at 102hz, and i have ds100hz profile installed, c2keeper installed, and yamakasi monitor driver installed. win8.1 gtx 780.


----------



## Spartan F8

This tends to work most of the time for me but i have not found any app or method that works quite perfectly. This app works the most compared to other software i have tried.

http://120hz.net/showthread.php?611-Colour-profile-enforcer-app


----------



## caenlen

thanks spartan.


----------



## tangosmango

I'm a bit confused on what to set my settings in games.

I've set my refresh rate to 100hz on Nvidia control panel. In Bioshock Infinite, I put my resolution at 2560x1440p but do I keep vertical sync on or off? Using Fraps, with V-sync on, I'm at a constant 50 (not sure why it's not 60) FPS. Without it, I'm around 75-80FPS.

I've used the testufo website to confirm that 120hz is working but is there a way to test that it is working in game as well?

Also, when I set my refresh rate to 120hz and I do the testufo test, it shows as only 60hz. I was able to get it at 120hz with valid results few days ago. Not sure why it's giving a problem now

4670k
Gigabyte 770 GTX OC
8gigs RAM
X-star DP2710LED


----------



## dzap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> My 7970 wasn't down clocking at idle , was sitting on 56 degrees at idle depending on ambient temps and i discovered setting it to "automatic lcd standard" in cru instead of manual has made it down clock. Now sits on 38 at idle, still a little up from 35 before the over clock. Give it a shot if it doesn't put your pixel clock any higher.


Unfortunately, that didnt help. Any other ideas?
I really dont want to run 96hz just for power saving feature to kick in, when I am [email protected] But having my gtx580 on water idle at 40C is anoying...


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> I'm a bit confused on what to set my settings in games.
> 
> I've set my refresh rate to 100hz on Nvidia control panel. In Bioshock Infinite, I put my resolution at 2560x1440p but do I keep vertical sync on or off? Using Fraps, with V-sync on, I'm at a constant 50 (not sure why it's not 60) FPS. Without it, I'm around 75-80FPS.


It sounds like your fps drops to half of your refresh rate becasue you have vsync on and your computer isn't fast enough to render it at 100 fps (and the game doesn't use triple buffering). Vsync has nothing to do with 60 fps, it's just that most monitors run at 60 Hz so that's why people and articles mention 60 or 30 fps in relation to vsync.

Since you have an Nvidia card you can also try the adaptive vsync setting which basically automatically disables vsync when your fps drops below your refresh rate and activates it when it goes above it. It works really great in some games and less well in others.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzap*
> 
> [quote name="mboner1" url="/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/8550#post_21055060"]My 7970 wasn't down clocking at idle , was sitting on 56 degrees at idle depending on ambient temps and i discovered setting it to "automatic lcd standard" in cru instead of manual has made it down clock. Now sits on 38 at idle, still a little up from 35 before the over clock. Give it a shot if it doesn't put your pixel clock any higher. :thumb:


Unfortunately, that didnt help. Any other ideas?I really dont want to run 96hz just for power saving feature to kick in, when I am [email protected] But having my gtx580 on water idle at 40C is anoying...[/QUOTE]
just make a different profile in afterburner with low clocks and run that while idling/not gaming


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> It sounds like your fps drops to half of your refresh rate becasue you have vsync on and your computer isn't fast enough to render it at 100 fps (and the game doesn't use triple buffering). Vsync has nothing to do with 60 fps, it's just that most monitors run at 60 Hz so that's why people and articles mention 60 or 30 fps in relation to vsync.
> 
> Since you have an Nvidia card you can also try the adaptive vsync setting which basically automatically disables vsync when your fps drops below your refresh rate and activates it when it goes above it. It works really great in some games and less well in others.


You're totally right. I was able to turn off AA and it was giving me more FPS (up to 100). So does this mean for optimal results I should play with 100hz and with AA off? What about bumping down the res to 1080?


----------



## LonelyTV

I received my two Qnix monitors last night. I was eager to check out how much they could overclock to considering I've read several posts here saying how much these monitors vary in "overclock-ability". Strangely enough I have found that both panel will not show 120hz in Windows as an option to choose. The highest it will show is 110hz no matter what I try. I just need some validation on what I think the issue might be. I am NOT running these monitors at the same time.

I've got two options that I'm thinking might be the cause of it and I'm leaning more towards the latter: 1) The "stock" DVI cable that came with it or 2) My video card (ATI Radeon HD 6950) is causing it not to show for some reason. However, AMD's Catalyst Control Center is showing that the "Maximum reported refresh rate" is 120hz. I've even tried an OS (Windows 7 & 8) reinstall to see if it was causing it, unfortunately it didn't fix it. Any idea what might be causing this?

*TL;DR:* My OS (Windows 7 and 8) only shows 110hz as the max on two panels (running one at a time) on a ATI Radeon HD 6950. But, the control panel reports 120hz.


----------



## Sedako

I've had my monitor since late June, and just recently, it's developed some strange blotches running in a vertical line the length of the screen. It can only be seen with certain colors, and it's not on the surface because I've tried cleaning it. I'm waiting to hear back from green-sum to see if it's covered under his warranty.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I used 3/8 inch screws and they seemed to work for me(my mount is about 1/16 inch thick though). Also you could always use a washer or two


Had the same issue with mine , Is it normal for the screws to vary depending on the vesa stand/ arm that you buy??? I returned the arm i bought because it sort of dangled from the vesa plate , now i'm using 2 washers on each screw with the stand i bought, none of the screws seem to go all the way in. It's like my holes aren't deep enough for any of the screws (that's what she said.)


----------



## bmancreations

I have successfully taken apart my two X-Stars and have mounted them. Not as crazy as I thought it would be, though I think I may have made one of them have slightly worse blb, but still hardly noticable.

I was going to do a setup photo tour, but didn't think how my old 24" would look beside the two 27s, so now I really want a third, but that will have to wait abit lol

Also, you don't notice how ****ty the casing is to these monitors until you take them apart, I might have to follow the paint/mount tutorial for the LCD some day.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I have successfully taken apart my two X-Stars and have mounted them. Not as crazy as I thought it would be, though I think I may have made one of them have slightly worse blb, but still hardly noticable.
> 
> I was going to do a setup photo tour, but didn't think how my old 24" would look beside the two 27s, so now I really want a third, but that will have to wait abit lol
> 
> Also, you don't notice how ****ty the casing is to these monitors until you take them apart, I might have to follow the paint/mount tutorial for the LCD some day.


Did you have any issues with the depth of the screw holes? (that's what he asked)


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Did you have any issues with the depth of the screw holes? (that's what he asked)


Sorry, yes. I actually cut my screws to make them fit, had a tool that worked, I was worried that I'd make them too short, but it worked out.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Sorry, yes. I actually cut my screws to make them fit, had a tool that worked, I was worried that I'd make them too short, but it worked out.


Cheers. Seems like that's the standard for these monitors then. I'm just gonna stick with my 2 washers and hope it hangs on lol. Should be fine i think.


----------



## stolemyowncar

Alright, the pixel on my monitor is indeed a dead sub pixel. The blue and green components of it work fine, and it turns off on black images. I guess that's not too bad.

I also managed to completely fix my backlight bleed via some cardboard and duct tape. This now looks better than the Viewsonics I had.

The only thing left is that weird slightly off color line, but it's only visible on flat color backgrounds if I look for it. A non issue during anything except browsing certain sites

Well all in all after I fixed the blb it became much better, though with that random off-color-ish line it's still a lot worse than most peoples' I guess. it's serviceable. I just hope it doesn't break apart on me or something.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> Alright, the pixel on my monitor is indeed a dead sub pixel. The blue and green components of it work fine, and it turns off on black images. I guess that's not too bad.
> 
> I also managed to completely fix my backlight bleed via some cardboard and duct tape. This now looks better than the Viewsonics I had.
> 
> The only thing left is that weird slightly off color line, but it's only visible on flat color backgrounds if I look for it. A non issue during anything except browsing certain sites
> 
> Well all in all after I fixed the blb it became much better, though with that random off-color-ish line it's still a lot worse than most peoples' I guess. it's serviceable. I just hope it doesn't break apart on me or something.


cardboard along the inside of the metal bezel held in with duct tape?


----------



## stolemyowncar

The duct tape was just used to keep multiple strips of cardboard together. The cardboard is mostly held in by the pressure from the frame.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> Could I use the QNIX at 120hz with an active MiniDisplayport --> DVI adapter?


120Hz didn't work when I used a 2 adapters: DL-DVI --> DP (passive) --> mini-DP.

I don't have access to an active adapter, though the person who sold this Qnix to me used a DL-DVI --> mini-DP (active) adapter to use this monitor on a Mac. Unfortunately, he only used OSX, so I couldn't test out 120Hz when I bought the monitor from him.


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> You're totally right. I was able to turn off AA and it was giving me more FPS (up to 100). So does this mean for optimal results I should play with 100hz and with AA off? What about bumping down the res to 1080?


All it means is that for vsync to have any positive effect when running at 100Hz your computer needs to be able to render the game at 100 fps or more. Otherwise it will just lower your fps.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> 120Hz didn't work when I used a 2 adapters: DL-DVI --> DP (passive) --> mini-DP.
> 
> I don't have access to an active adapter, though the person who sold this Qnix to me used a DL-DVI --> mini-DP (active) adapter to use this monitor on a Mac. Unfortunately, he only used OSX, so I couldn't test out 120Hz when I bought the monitor from him.


Just tried it for who ever was asking with my spare active adapter i have lying around from my eyefinity days and it's a no go at 96hz and 60hz, no picture, blue led just flashes on the monitor.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Just tried it for who ever was asking with my spare active adapter i have lying around from my eyefinity days and it's a no go at 96hz and 60hz, no picture, blue led just flashes on the monitor.


Was it a single link or dual link DVI adapter? My passive one works, though it has a few lines that flash here and there.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Should I, and if I do, should I buy a third 670 ftw for it? How hard is overclocking the monitor?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Was it a single link or dual link DVI adapter? My passive one works, though it has a few lines that flash here and there.


Dual link. I got no picture with either 96hz or 60hz, it's definitely a active display port adapter as well, i used it for eyefinity. Weird.


----------



## Profwoot

For the VESA mount, my Shimian needed 1/4" spacers (Home Depot had some nylon ones for 32 cents each). For my old Samsung that I mounted for a couple days before my new X-Star showed up, the normal 1/2" or 3/8" screws (whatever came with; I forget the length) fit all the way in. For the X-Star, the 1/4" spacers were too big, so I found some old nylon washers laying around that were maybe 1/8"-ish that worked perfectly. It doesn't seem like hole depth has any consistency. If you're waiting for a monitor (and plan a VESA mount), it might be a good idea to run and get some different sized spacers/washers so you can use your new toy when it arrives.


----------



## 271973

I'm about to order a QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ2 27" matte from green-sum. Two questions for you lovely folks:

- Is there an increased risk of trapped dust if you get a Tempered Glass version? Or is the likelihood equal?
- Has anyone ordered something similar from green-sum in the UK recently? I've contacted them asking about whether or nor they mark it as a gift, and what they put the value down as but they said they can't confirm until Monday.

Thanks!


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> - Is there an increased risk of trapped dust if you get a Tempered Glass version? Or is the likelihood equal?


I'd say the risk of dust is much higher since you add an additional layer that isn't part of the panel. That is just my logical conclusion, not personal experience, but you would have to have looked at hundres of different ones from each model to make any good conclusions based on personal experience.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> - Has anyone ordered something similar from green-sum in the UK recently? I've contacted them asking about whether or nor they mark it as a gift, and what they put the value down as but they said they can't confirm until Monday.
> 
> Thanks!


I did not order from green-sum because AccessoriesWhole had a much better pixel policy but I got this response from green-sum a few days ago:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *green-sum*
> In terms of the declaration issue, we can declare your item as lower value, and mark as a 'commercial sample' or 'gift'. But please excuse that we cannot predict the tax, because sometime Customs pick up randomly and impose taxes. Tax issue is out of our control. Please remind us at once after you order, if you want to declare your item lower value.


I know from others that they don't list a lower value unless you ask them to.


----------



## JE14

I'm in the USA but I ordered from green-sum back in August and my monitor just died on me. I contacted them and it took 3 emails and the threat of a chargeback to get a response back. I sent in a video showing the defect and they told me to wait until Monday for them to respond. The monitor was great before this and I probably just got unlucky but if you do decide to purchase this monitor, from any seller, make sure you buy the Squaretrade warranty.


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE14*
> 
> I'm in the USA but I ordered from green-sum back in August and my monitor just died on me. I contacted them and it took 3 emails and the threat of a chargeback to get a response back. I sent in a video showing the defect and they told me to wait until Monday for them to respond. The monitor was great before this and I probably just got unlucky but if you do decide to purchase this monitor, from any seller, make sure you buy the Squaretrade warranty.


May I ask whether you had it overclocked or anything? I got mine from green-sum as well.

I'm probably not going to even try overclocking mine. It seems silly to grab these cheap monitors with crappy PCB's and ask for more out of them than you would the mainstream brand ones. >_>


----------



## TinDaDragon

Just ordered my X-Star from dream-seller.

I can't wait!


----------



## bond32

My X-Star from Dreamseller is still holding good. Had it since Aug. Been running it at 120hz for a few weeks now, looks pretty darn good.

I personally wasn't happy with Dreamseller. Long story, but it's all good now.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> May I ask whether you had it overclocked or anything? I got mine from green-sum as well.
> 
> I'm probably not going to even try overclocking mine. It seems silly to grab these cheap monitors with crappy PCB's and ask for more out of them than you would the mainstream brand ones. >_>


Those were my thoughts exactly, .. Then I started thinking and I thought "I will just try it out and see if 96hz is as good as I remember 120hz being" .. And it was even better because its in 1440p and I decided then I had to have it lol. So I have stuck with it. Personally if I even get 6 months out of this monitor I'm happy, I went through 4 monitors in a month before getting this and I wouldn't swap it for nothing. If it dies I get another one. Obviously I want it to last but at this price I would go 2 more times before I gave up on them lol.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> May I ask whether you had it overclocked or anything? I got mine from green-sum as well.
> 
> I'm probably not going to even try overclocking mine. It seems silly to grab these cheap monitors with crappy PCB's and ask for more out of them than you would the mainstream brand ones. >_>


You're just a tiny bit too pessimistic. These boards are made for the higher refresh rates else they wouldn't even overclock without skipping frames. You can get 96Hz easily without any fiddling, just a click or two.


----------



## gonsa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Profwoot*
> 
> For the VESA mount, my Shimian needed 1/4" spacers (Home Depot had some nylon ones for 32 cents each). For my old Samsung that I mounted for a couple days before my new X-Star showed up, the normal 1/2" or 3/8" screws (whatever came with; I forget the length) fit all the way in. For the X-Star, the 1/4" spacers were too big, so I found some old nylon washers laying around that were maybe 1/8"-ish that worked perfectly. It doesn't seem like hole depth has any consistency. If you're waiting for a monitor (and plan a VESA mount), it might be a good idea to run and get some different sized spacers/washers so you can use your new toy when it arrives.


I wanted to install another mount too when it arrives.
Is it compatible with a Vesa mount straight away or do we need to do something before?
Which mount did you get?


----------



## JE14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> May I ask whether you had it overclocked or anything? I got mine from green-sum as well.
> 
> I'm probably not going to even try overclocking mine. It seems silly to grab these cheap monitors with crappy PCB's and ask for more out of them than you would the mainstream brand ones. >_>


I OC'd occasionally but not very often. It would reset itself whenever I restarted so I just stopped messing with it. They're great monitor's while they last. The quality of the pcb soldering is piss poor though. I opened mine up after it died and I was pretty amazed by how terrible it was. That being said I'd still recommend it just make sure you buy the squaretrade warranty if buying on ebay.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Hey everyone,

I borrowed a Spyder4Pro from one of my friends and I've created some color profiles for various refresh rates.

I've included 60, 96, 110, and 120Hz profiles,

QNIX Color Profiles.zip 10k .zip file


These were calibrated at 120 cd/m2, which is 11-12 clicks from the bottom on my monitor


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I borrowed a Spyder4Pro from one of my friends and I've created some color profiles for various refresh rates.
> 
> I've included 60, 96, 110, and 120Hz profiles,
> 
> QNIX Color Profiles.zip 10k .zip file
> 
> 
> These were calibrated at 120 cd/m2, which is 11-12 clicks from the bottom on my monitor


Good stuff here, but did you actually specify a target luminance or did you hit a post-calibration luminance close to 120cd/m2? I'm asking this because dropping down from the native luminance of the display post-calibration to 120cd/m2 will cause loss of contrast ratio due to lowering the brightness of whites while keeping blacks the same.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Good stuff here, but did you actually specify a target luminance or did you hit a post-calibration luminance close to 120cd/m2? I'm asking this because dropping down from the native luminance of the display post-calibration to 120cd/m2 will cause loss of contrast ratio due to lowering the brightness of whites while keeping blacks the same.


I targeted for 120 and then made sure that I was running at 120 while calibrating









EDIT: I may have actually been running around 125 since the brightness setting clicks on these isn't super accurate, but I was close!


----------



## bmancreations

Are there any HDMI to DVI-D that would work for these monitors?

I know DisplayPort to DVI-D can work (active) but any HDMI?


----------



## blunden

Is the monitor inf originally posted for the Catleap used by anyone anymore? If so, I decided to properly name the monitor in the inf so that it doesn't show up as a Catleap. I'm OCD like that.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/a5bh7akvohboadc/qnix-xstar-display-inf.zip


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> I targeted for 120 and then made sure that I was running at 120 while calibrating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I may have actually been running around 125 since the brightness setting clicks on these isn't super accurate, but I was close!


Awesome, works. The luminance dips a bit on calibration if the monitor had a yellowish tint (10cm/m2 for me) as the non-yellowish ones seem to have quite accurate whites out-of-the-box. Did your monitor have a yellowish tint?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> It was calibrated for 120cda on a dark room so no idea why it will be too bright for you, specially since it seems for gaming some people like brighter.
> I got one calibrated with ambient reading on which makes things darker even with a reading of lux 0
> You can test this:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11789282/Forum120hz2ndtry11ClicksD65.icm


This is what I am currently using and it looks a bit darker/yellower than stock.

I tried the 120Hz one from Zipper Fairy, but it gets a lower contrast and a lot more blue-ish.


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> Is the monitor inf originally posted for the Catleap used by anyone anymore? If so, I decided to properly name the monitor in the inf so that it doesn't show up as a Catleap. I'm OCD like that.
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/download/a5bh7akvohboadc/qnix-xstar-display-inf.zip


I need it anyway to get the 120hz in games, so might aswell have the correct name


----------



## rcoolb2002

Well I just ordered the Qnix 2710 Evo II. Hope it will be a nice upgrade from my Acer 1080p 60hz panel.

I was debating the best way to get the most noticeable difference for my money Monitor vs Graphics card.

Hopefully i made the right choice.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> Well I just ordered the Qnix 2710 Evo II. Hope it will be a nice upgrade from my Acer 1080p 60hz panel.
> 
> I was debating the best way to get the most noticeable difference for my money Monitor vs Graphics card.
> 
> Hopefully i made the right choice.


Hope it comes to you safe and sound.









It should work well with your 7950.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> This is what I am currently using and it looks a bit darker/yellower than stock.
> 
> I tried the 120Hz one from Zipper Fairy, but it gets a lower contrast and a lot more blue-ish.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Awesome, works. The luminance dips a bit on calibration if the monitor had a yellowish tint (10cm/m2 for me) as the non-yellowish ones seem to have quite accurate whites out-of-the-box. Did your monitor have a yellowish tint?


Yep haha, my monitor had a pretty warm/yellow tint to it, so the profiles I posted should be pretty blue/cool


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I borrowed a Spyder4Pro from one of my friends and I've created some color profiles for various refresh rates.
> 
> I've included 60, 96, 110, and 120Hz profiles,
> 
> QNIX Color Profiles.zip 10k .zip file
> 
> 
> These were calibrated at 120 cd/m2, which is 11-12 clicks from the bottom on my monitor


]

96Hz profile, seems perfect on my screen, Thanks for posting these


----------



## LonelyTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Are there any HDMI to DVI-D that would work for these monitors?
> 
> I know DisplayPort to DVI-D can work (active) but any HDMI?


I was told on another forum that a cable like *this* would work. However, it was in context to a laptop with a NVIDIA GPU which needed a custom resolution set for it to output to the monitor. I'm ordering this cable Monday to see if it works or not.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LonelyTV*
> 
> I was told on another forum that a cable like *this* would work. However, it was in context to a laptop with a NVIDIA GPU which needed a custom resolution set for it to output to the monitor. I'm ordering this cable Monday to see if it works or not.


Tried it. Didn't work on mine. But tried active display port adapter to dvi and that didn't work for me but supposedly did on someone elses so i don't know, you might have more luck than i did.


----------



## tonyay163

Anyone have a way to get Intel hd graphics 3000 running the monitor 2560x1440 60hz with HDMI? I got it working with a NVIDIA card using the patch on another laptop.


----------



## dante`afk

When I`m playing fullscreen, the second monitor gets the color/brightness/gamma adjustments from the first monitor.

is this normal? pretty annoying to re-apply them always afterwards.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> When I`m playing fullscreen, the second monitor gets the color/brightness/gamma adjustments from the first monitor.
> 
> is this normal? pretty annoying to re-apply them always afterwards.


There's a great program that forces your .icc profiles even while in games. Typically fullscreen games override your settings, and sometimes don't revert back to your custom color profiles after you exit them.

Try out Color Profile Keeper: http://goebish.free.fr/cpk/

It allows you to load in .icc files onto different monitors, and forces these profiles at all times


----------



## dante`afk

Thanks for that. Though does not work if you change the color profile with the nvidia CP.

I am using now your calibrated 120hz icc profile, looks pretty good thanks for sharing this here.

Would there be any way that I could make it brighter?


----------



## blunden

I keep seeing people here saying that the X-Star stand is easier to remove but all the unboxing videos and pixtures I've seen show them to be identical with the Qnix. Did they change the stand on the X-Star in a later revision?

I'm about 300 pages in so far, so the change must've been a while ago.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LonelyTV*
> 
> I was told on another forum that a cable like *this* would work. However, it was in context to a laptop with a NVIDIA GPU which needed a custom resolution set for it to output to the monitor. I'm ordering this cable Monday to see if it works or not.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Tried it. Didn't work on mine. But tried active display port adapter to dvi and that didn't work for me but supposedly did on someone elses so i don't know, you might have more luck than i did.


My passive DL-DVI to DP works, but produces lines that flash in and out of the screen.

The person I bought my Qnix from demo'd it to me using an active DL-DVI to mini-DP adapter(usb-powered) and used his Mac to drive it; this produced a clear signal that had no lines or anything weird.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> I keep seeing people here saying that the X-Star stand is easier to remove but all the unboxing videos and pixtures I've seen show them to be identical with the Qnix. Did they change the stand on the X-Star in a later revision?
> 
> I'm about 300 pages in so far, so the change must've been a while ago.


I've also read that the X-Star needed less work or less screws to be unscrewed compared to the Qnix. Maybe someone who did it on a X-Star can chime in?


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> I keep seeing people here saying that the X-Star stand is easier to remove but all the unboxing videos and pixtures I've seen show them to be identical with the Qnix. Did they change the stand on the X-Star in a later revision?
> 
> I'm about 300 pages in so far, so the change must've been a while ago.


Except for the label, the Qnix and Xstar are 100% identical.
Maybe some stands are easier to remove than others, but I doubt that differs per brand.
It's likely you have to open up the bezel in order to remove it.


----------



## bijan588

Having now seen both there is an actuall difference.

The xstar that I got had those little plastic peg tab things holding the stand in (I was able to pull it out), while the qnix uses skrews.

Not sure if I got some mutant models, but yeah.


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> Having now seen both there is an actuall difference.
> 
> The xstar that I got had those little plastic peg tab things holding the stand in (I was able to pull it out), while the qnix uses skrews.
> 
> Not sure if I got some mutant models, but yeah.


Looking at pictures from when people first got them and comparing to now I know there are some minor differences but I never saw that. Could you post some pictures?


----------



## jtfjtfjtf

Would a Geforce gtx 560 ti 1.25 gig graphics card be enough for this type of monitor? I know it can handle up to 2560x1600 but would a monitor this large just be pushing things too far?

Use would be for casual game playing (I play Rome 2 occasionally) and then also photoshop work.

Also, would taping the monitor for backlight bleed void the seller's warranty or a squaretrade warranty?

Thanks


----------



## Profwoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> I wanted to install another mount too when it arrives.
> Is it compatible with a Vesa mount straight away or do we need to do something before?
> Which mount did you get?


The X-Star has VESA mounts in the back, nothing special required (except I had to do the minor surgery to get the clear plastic leg off).

I got the Ergotron dual monitor arms. Amazon's got it on sale right now for $199. It's designed for a max of 24" monitors but it holds the weight of the Korean ones just fine (while losing a bit of maneuverability/range of motion as you'd expect).


----------



## dzap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> just make a different profile in afterburner with low clocks and run that while idling/not gaming


And forget ever changing those profiles... Thats the issue right there.

If anyone finds any info on GTX 5xx series power savings feature on [email protected], please let me know


----------



## tonyay163

I'm having an issue with Intel HD 3000 graphics on my Lenovo Y570 laptop and the X-Star monitor.

First of all, I tried setting the custom resolution to 2560 x 1440 @ 30 Hz in the Intel Control Panel but it says that it is "invalid".
Therefore, I tried 20 Hz and it gave me the same problem.
Then, I tried 40 Hz and now it tells me that it exceeds the "maximum" bandwidth (which I know isn't true cause I can run 48 Hz on another laptop with the same cable / HDMI port)
Lastly, I even tried 1920 x 1080 @ 40, 60 Hz and it says that the maximum was exceeded again (which should be impossible)

Can anyone shed some light on this issue? Or can recommend steps for me to try?


----------



## BlauGruen

Quote:


> Macbook, Laptops and On-Board graphics cards are also NOT compatible.


Intel HD graphics 3000 is the internal graphical unit ("on-board graphics") of the Sandybridge generation CPU.


----------



## tonyay163

Actually, I have another laptop, a Y580 that works with these monitors. I can get it running at 60Hz in HDMI with just a small artifact (sometimes it has some green lines on the edge of the screen when gaming). I also read in some other places that You can get at least 40 Hz at this resolution, even with Intel HD 3000 graphics.


----------



## ya mother

I seen someone on here was wondering whether the Tempered glass was glossy underneath or matte.....one person said glossy and another matte, so i contacted accessoriewhole and they got back to me with this reply......

Sorry for the late response due to the weekend.
Qnix says it is matte screen + tempered glass.


----------



## MeneerVent

Hello,
Im planning on getting a korean monitor. Which do you think is better? The Qnix or Xstar (overclockability, color accuracy, quality)? And would it be a good idea to buy a "pixel perfect monitor"? And do you people recommend any specific seller? Im planning on buying a glossy version too, is that a mistake?
Grtz


----------



## TinDaDragon

Just got my shipping info and it's through FedEx. Any one with experience being shipped by FedEx? I'm kind of scared after their incidents.


----------



## Profwoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinDaDragon*
> 
> Just got my shipping info and it's through FedEx. Any one with experience being shipped by FedEx? I'm kind of scared after their incidents.


It's probably good I didn't hear about the incidents then. Mine was shipped via FedEx and I had no issues.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Profwoot*
> 
> It's probably good I didn't hear about the incidents then. Mine was shipped via FedEx and I had no issues.


*Yeah apparently a plane went down out at sea and the only survivor which was a fedex guy made a house on a desert island with all our monitors.*


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Hello,
> Im planning on getting a korean monitor. Which do you think is better? The Qnix or Xstar (overclockability, color accuracy, quality)? And would it be a good idea to buy a "pixel perfect monitor"? And do you people recommend any specific seller? Im planning on buying a glossy version too, is that a mistake?
> Grtz


Neither, neither, neither, no, AccessoriesWhole, not necessarily.


----------



## flv1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Hello,
> Im planning on getting a korean monitor. Which do you think is better? The Qnix or Xstar (overclockability, color accuracy, quality)? And would it be a good idea to buy a "pixel perfect monitor"? And do you people recommend any specific seller? Im planning on buying a glossy version too, is that a mistake?
> Grtz
> 
> 
> 
> Neither, neither, neither, no, AccessoriesWhole, not necessarily.
Click to expand...

lol I love these kind of answers.


----------



## ya mother

Not really an answer tbh.....all i got from that was no, no, no, defo no, Accessorieswhole and i'm not sure?

No reasons to and why?

Glossy vs matte is personal preference imo and also how much light you have coming into your room for reflections.....i prefer glossy as it makes the colours jump more and looks more vibrant......there seems to be 4 main distributors which is accessorieswhole, green-sum, Excellentcastle and dreamseller....this is on uk ebay.....and i'm going to order pixel perfect because i don't want to take the chance of getting any dead pixels.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Not really an answer tbh.....all i got from that was no, no, no, defo no, Accessorieswhole and i'm not sure?
> 
> No reasons to and why?
> 
> Glossy vs matte is personal preference imo and also how much light you have coming into your room for reflections.....i prefer glossy as it makes the colours jump more and looks more vibrant......there seems to be 4 main distributors which is accessorieswhole, green-sum, Excellentcastle and dreamseller....this is on uk ebay.....and i'm going to order pixel perfect because i don't want to take the chance of getting any dead pixels.


Read your post, and the answers will match up to your questions:
Overclockability, X-star vs Qnix? Neither is better.
Colour accuracy, X-star vs Qnix? Neither is better.
Quality, X-star vs Qnix? Neither is better.
Good idea to buy perfect pixel? No.
Which dealer is recommended? AccessoriesWhole.
Glossy is a mistake? Not necessarily.

Pixel perfect is at best placebo, and at worst a scam. It's your money.


----------



## Sieze2

Hey there. I just got a qnix 2710 after lurking on this thread for a few weeks. The pixels are all fine, and I am getting a little backlight bleed (but its not a problem). Every few days the screen has a fit and goes like the picture below. I thought it was the overclock so I lowered it to 85 hz (from 96). But it still did it. Just now it went again running at the stock 60 hz as I scrolled with the mouse wheel. When the computer restarts its fine. Does anyone have any advice? The supplied cable is fully screwed in to both to the monitor and graphics card btw.

http://s206.photobucket.com/user/sieze2/media/null_zpsabb3695d.jpg.html
http://s206.photobucket.com/user/sieze2/media/qnixsettings_zpse7d80bee.jpg.html


----------



## flv1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Not really an answer tbh.....all i got from that was no, no, no, defo no, Accessorieswhole and i'm not sure?
> 
> No reasons to and why?
> 
> Glossy vs matte is personal preference imo and also how much light you have coming into your room for reflections.....i prefer glossy as it makes the colours jump more and looks more vibrant......there seems to be 4 main distributors which is accessorieswhole, green-sum, Excellentcastle and dreamseller....this is on uk ebay.....and i'm going to order pixel perfect because i don't want to take the chance of getting any dead pixels.


There is also red-cap as a seller. I choose them as their price was the best at the time of buying.

On a side note: Fedex shows my monitor at the depot one hour away. So close I can taste it!, but its on hold as the scheduled delivery is Wednesday!


----------



## flv1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sieze2*
> 
> Hey there. I just got a qnix 2710 after lurking on this thread for a few weeks. The pixels are all fine, and I am getting a little backlight bleed (but its not a problem). Every few days the screen has a fit and goes like the picture below. I thought it was the overclock so I lowered it to 85 hz (from 96). But it still did it. Just now it went again running at the stock 60 hz as I scrolled with the mouse wheel. When the computer restarts its fine. Does anyone have any advice? The supplied cable is fully screwed in to both to the monitor and graphics card btw.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s206.photobucket.com/user/sieze2/media/null_zpsabb3695d.jpg.html
> http://s206.photobucket.com/user/sieze2/media/qnixsettings_zpse7d80bee.jpg.html


I have read in other forums that the delivered DVI cable is not the best, do you maybe have another one you can try? As most problems are solved with a higher quality cable.

Edit: By the way. are you running an AMD (ati) Card? overclocked with afterburner?


----------



## Sieze2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I have read in other forums that the delivered DVI cable is not the best, do you maybe have another one you can try? As most problems are solved with a higher quality cable.
> 
> Edit: By the way. are you running an AMD (ati) Card? overclocked with afterburner?


Yes I am running a 7950 overclocked with afterburner. Its totally stable though, and the monitor has never gone crazy when playing a game.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> There is also red-cap as a seller. I choose them as their price was the best at the time of buying.
> 
> On a side note: Fedex shows my monitor at the depot one hour away. So close I can taste it!, but its on hold as the scheduled delivery is Wednesday!


Red cap has had the most bad buying experiences on this forum. Which is probably part of the reason why he's the cheapest.


----------



## flv1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sieze2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I have read in other forums that the delivered DVI cable is not the best, do you maybe have another one you can try? As most problems are solved with a higher quality cable.
> 
> Edit: By the way. are you running an AMD (ati) Card? overclocked with afterburner?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I am running a 7950 overclocked with afterburner. Its totally stable though, and the monitor has never gone crazy when playing a game.
Click to expand...

ULPS is the culprit, My screen used to do that when I watched something, You tube, local files (Movie), twitch. Surfing a static page was fine, but if it had flash videos or something similar, boom. I have a 2 monitor setup though, I was able to guestimate the window position and pull it to my other monitor, as soon as I closed said application all was fine again. (As if I restarted my PC)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> There is also red-cap as a seller. I choose them as their price was the best at the time of buying.
> 
> On a side note: Fedex shows my monitor at the depot one hour away. So close I can taste it!, but its on hold as the scheduled delivery is Wednesday!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red cap has had the most bad buying experiences on this forum. Which is probably part of the reason why he's the cheapest.
Click to expand...

Damn :-( I hope everything works out for me.


----------



## Coolio831

Ordered my 2nd QNIX!


----------



## TrptJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sieze2*
> 
> Hey there. I just got a qnix 2710 after lurking on this thread for a few weeks. The pixels are all fine, and I am getting a little backlight bleed (but its not a problem). Every few days the screen has a fit and goes like the picture below. I thought it was the overclock so I lowered it to 85 hz (from 96). But it still did it. Just now it went again running at the stock 60 hz as I scrolled with the mouse wheel. When the computer restarts its fine. Does anyone have any advice? The supplied cable is fully screwed in to both to the monitor and graphics card btw.


Is your GPU's memory overclocked? I had the same issue with my screen doing that, and I found that my GPU's memory was not clocking down to idle speeds and causing it to fail after a period of time. Lowering it to stock speeds fixed it.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Pixel perfect is at best placebo, and at worst a scam. It's your money.


So if i get a monitor with a dead pixel i cant return it if ive paid extra?


----------



## Sieze2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrptJim*
> 
> Is your GPU's memory overclocked? I had the same issue with my screen doing that, and I found that my GPU's memory was not clocking down to idle speeds and causing it to fail after a period of time. Lowering it to stock speeds fixed it.


Humm ok good advice, i'll try that first, then disabling ULPS. Can afterburner do that ? If so how?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> So if i get a monitor with a dead pixel i cant return it if ive paid extra?


You can try. The vast majority of "perfect pixel" policies do not cover a single dead pixel, or two, three, or even four dead pixels. Most if not all will cover a single bright pixel defect. All will tend to be a pain to return even with a legitimate claim. None guarantee that a bright pixel will not develop during your ownership.

Statistically insignificant, but it doesn't seem like the distribution of panels with bright pixel defects vs panels without bright pixel defects ("perfect pixel") is any different when one goes for perfect pixel or non-perfect pixel. Thus, given the anecdotal evidence so far, you have as much chance of getting a "perfect pixel" panel whether or not you pay for it. Hence, in my opinion, they're just labeling some monitors as "perfect pixel" and selling them for more. Not necessarily true, of course, but that is my opinion given what we know.


----------



## slothiraptor

Do you guys think $290 for a used x-star with no dead pixels and shipped from the US is a good deal?


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You can try. The vast majority of "perfect pixel" policies do not cover a single dead pixel, or two, three, or even four dead pixels. Most if not all will cover a single bright pixel defect. All will tend to be a pain to return even with a legitimate claim. None guarantee that a bright pixel will not develop during your ownership.
> 
> Statistically insignificant, but it doesn't seem like the distribution of panels with bright pixel defects vs panels without bright pixel defects ("perfect pixel") is any different when one goes for perfect pixel or non-perfect pixel. Thus, given the anecdotal evidence so far, you have as much chance of getting a "perfect pixel" panel whether or not you pay for it. Hence, in my opinion, they're just labeling some monitors as "perfect pixel" and selling them for more. Not necessarily true, of course, but that is my opinion given what we know.


Thanks for clearing that up for me.....think i will get a normal one now and buy a decent DVID cable instead.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I seen someone on here was wondering whether the Tempered glass was glossy underneath or matte.....one person said glossy and another matte, so i contacted accessoriewhole and they got back to me with this reply......
> 
> Sorry for the late response due to the weekend.
> Qnix says it is matte screen + tempered glass.


Haha, i asked accessorieswhole the same question without them knowing my preference before buying and this is a direct copy and paste of the reply...

Hi

Thanks for your message.
It is glossy monitor.
Qnix added the tempered glass on Qnix glossy monitor.

If you have any other queries, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you.

- accessorieswhole

Nice to know it's a different answer depending on the day you ask lol. Either way i'm super happy with my monitor and if i was guessing i would say mine is a glossy. I'm glad i got the tempered glass version , but that was part of the selling point for me, i didn't like the matte on the asus pb278q.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sieze2*
> 
> Humm ok good advice, i'll try that first, then disabling ULPS. Can afterburner do that ? If so how?


I stick to using Sapphire Trixx (get the modded one for memory voltage). You can disable ULPS through the settings and then you can keep your overclocked settings without any problems with the monitor. It will even downclock your core clocks to 500mhz when idle or watching videos.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Haha, i asked accessorieswhole the same question without them knowing my preference before buying and this is a direct copy and paste of the reply...
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks for your message.
> It is glossy monitor.
> Qnix added the tempered glass on Qnix glossy monitor.
> 
> If you have any other queries, please feel free to contact us.
> Thank you.
> 
> - accessorieswhole
> 
> Nice to know it's a different answer depending on the day you ask lol. Either way i'm super happy with my monitor and if i was guessing i would say mine is a glossy. I'm glad i got the tempered glass version , but that was part of the selling point for me, i didn't like the matte on the asus pb278q.


Cheers for that.....they probs havent a clue and just have a wild guess lol.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Do you guys think $290 for a used x-star with no dead pixels and shipped from the US is a good deal?


Well being in Canada, I have been paying $400 for them, so yes its a good deal.


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Just adding more info to the pool

- Bought a Glossy Qnix from accessorieswhole, paid for the perfect pixel version, had 1 dead pixel in lower left corner. Not a big deal.

- Had bad BLB in the middle-top and middle-bottom, could see where the panel was warped outward, possibly happened during shipping? who knows

- Debezeled the monitor which took care of the BLB

- Overclocks to 120hz, I keep it at 96hz b/c the right side of the screen gets darker than the rest at >100hz

- Very happy with the monitor now that it's been debezeled.

I also have a Crossover q-led pivot model that I bought from dream seller last year. Again, I paid for a pixel perfect version and it had zero dead pixels and zero BLB, but I think this is b/c of the better quality metal housing.

If I had to buy another monitor, I'd still pay for a pixel perfect version but I'd go with a different vendor, possibly dream seller again. Maybe I'm part of the problem.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Joseph Dirt*
> 
> Just adding more info to the pool
> 
> - Bought a Glossy Qnix from accessorieswhole, paid for the perfect pixel version, had 1 dead pixel in lower left corner. Not a big deal.


I'd ask for at least a refund for the difference. Mine has a stuck pixel in the middle and that's what I'm gonna do. They didn't check the monitor before shipping it else they'd have found a dead / stuck pixel.
Quote:


> - Had bad BLB in the middle-top and middle-bottom, could see where the panel was warped outward, possibly happened during shipping? who knows
> 
> - Debezeled the monitor which took care of the BLB


Debezeling fixed the warping issue that caused yellow bleeding? I have some yellow bleeding at the middle-bottom.
Quote:


> - Overclocks to 120hz, I keep it at 96hz b/c the right side of the screen gets darker than the rest at >100hz


Tighten your timings. I am at 110Hz or 117Hz and there are no brightness uniformity issues, measured with colorimeter and my eyes don't fool me too.

Enjoy your monitor dude.


----------



## bmancreations

Where do I find the versions of these monitors (preferably XSTAR) with extra inputs? I can't find them anywhere. I have so far bought from green-sum and dream seller, do I just search there pages?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slothiraptor*
> 
> Do you guys think $290 for a used x-star with no dead pixels and shipped from the US is a good deal?


If that's the price, you may as well buy the new ones for $300 with free shipping. I got my used Qnix for $180, but that was a bit of a lucky find.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Where do I find the versions of these monitors (preferably XSTAR) with extra inputs? I can't find them anywhere. I have so far bought from green-sum and dream seller, do I just search there pages?


Lots of results from Ebay? These were the cheapest I could find and the good part is that accessorieswhole is selling them (one of the better Ebay sellers).

X-Star Multi-Input Matte:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-Panel-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/111103349320?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de469248

X-Star Multi-Input Glossy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MDP-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-DP-DVI-HDMI-PC-Monitor-/121130962369?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33f7cdc1

If you go through with one of these, could please try to overclock it and let us know if the multi-input version will overclock? I have seen people overclock the multi-input one, but only through the DL-DVI port on the monitor. I haven't seen anyone try it on the DP port.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> If that's the price, you may as well buy the new ones for $300 with free shipping. I got my used Qnix for $180, but that was a bit of a lucky find.
> Lots of results from Ebay? These were the cheapest I could find and the good part is that accessorieswhole is selling them (one of the better Ebay sellers).
> 
> X-Star Multi-Input Matte:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-Panel-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/111103349320?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de469248
> 
> X-Star Multi-Input Glossy:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MDP-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-DP-DVI-HDMI-PC-Monitor-/121130962369?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33f7cdc1
> 
> If you go through with one of these, could please try to overclock it and let us know if the multi-input version will overclock? I have seen people overclock the multi-input one, but only through the DL-DVI port on the monitor. I haven't seen anyone try it on the DP port.


Thanks, from that link I found this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-1440p-PLS-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/121156200631?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3578e8b7

So, that is the same as the two XSTARs I have bought, just with extra inputs now?


----------



## ds84

Where did you see ppl OC the multi-input with DVI-DL? I only saw ppl asking if it was OC-able or not...


----------



## bmancreations

Well here is my setup. I have two normal XSTARs right now, overclocked to 96hz, loving it.

The third monitor is currently an older 24 inch doing nothing. I am getting a Mac Mini. So I want to connect the XSTAR to the mac mini, but since this mac will only be used sometimes, I want to be able to use it for other things, maybe a console, or maybe a third screen along with the other two I have. The only way to really do this is to have more then just DVI.

So my quesiton is, but now I guess we don't know? If I use it as a third screen for my current setup, I want to overclock it to 96hz to match the other two screens. Then if I switch inputs to say DisplayPort with the Mac Mini, I don't really care what its at, if its 60hz or not. I want to be able to switch back and forth between them, 60hz Mac to 96hz PC. Will this happen or will it change everytime?

Also, will I notice the "input" lag? I'm never bought this originaly because of that, never cared about it. I do play games though, but I doubt I'd see a difference? Correct?

**I was just looking at the current Mac Mini (might change when they refresh) but I swear it had Mini Displayport, but now it only shows Thunderbolt, and from my research that only does 1080P?

**Forgot, my GTX 770 only has HDMI & DisplayPort left. So if I used the DisplayPort for the Mac, HDMI can't do 1440P, unless these monitors & the 770 supports the new standard for HDMI?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Where did you see ppl OC the multi-input with DVI-DL? I only saw ppl asking if it was OC-able or not...


There was a monitor forum that had a few people do it. I forgot which one it was, hence why I can't directly link them. One of the people from this forum did a review on it and has been running 120Hz since then (I was reading this forum a few weeks ago). If I can find it, I will link it, otherwise this is all I have to show:

http://www.technologyx.com/pc-hardware/display/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/3/

You can see in page 2 that they have the multi-input version and through the comments, HDMI could not overclock, but the DL-DVI worked for both monitors.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> There was a monitor forum that had a few people do it. I forgot which one it was, hence why I can't directly link them. One of the people from this forum did a review on it and has been running 120Hz since then (I was reading this forum a few weeks ago). If I can find it, I will link it, otherwise this is all I have to show:
> 
> http://www.technologyx.com/pc-hardware/display/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/3/
> 
> You can see in page 2 that they have the multi-input version and through the comments, HDMI could not overclock, but the DL-DVI worked for both monitors.


Again... the "overclock" was not validated via the frame skipping test. Thus it cannot be relied upon as a test for the ability to overclock (for example, the recent CrossOver Blacktune 2735 was thought to be able to, but has since been proven not to be overclockable.)


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Again... the "overclock" was not validated via the frame skipping test. Thus it cannot be relied upon as a test for the ability to overclock (for example, the recent CrossOver Blacktune 2735 was thought to be able to, but has since been proven not to be overclockable.)


Well I've been trying to find the other posts, but so far the handful of posts I've read in the last hour have been able to overclock the multi-input to about 75Hz (even with HDMI) and higher overclocks tend to skip frames for the ones I have read.

I'll try to contact the person who did that review and let them do a frame skip test if possible, so we can find out.


----------



## Lysergix710

Whacking this here too for anyone else currently making this decision on an overclockable choice some info i havnt read anywhere else and noticed while deciding myself.. the QNIX has 6MS response time where as the XSTAR has 8MS. Id read that they were similar in all ways and doubt its much difference but since im getting one for the overclockability i know ill go with the QNIX. Really obvious info but i got seconds away from pulling the trigger on a XSTAR from reading that it was the same as the QNIX but cheaper and i know there would be other eager beavers doing the same

LOL just looked at the first page... full ******


----------



## yasamoka

Ummm no. They are identical. Response times listed are incorrect. Qnix and X-Star are produced by the same company and the X-Star will eventually (if not already) be discontinued.


----------



## gonsa

for what it's worth, for Portugal, the customs were €80 and the handling by FedEx were €49.
total €130!

all hail the portuguese taxes!


----------



## Lysergix710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Ummm no. They are identical. Response times listed are incorrect. Qnix and X-Star are produced by the same company and the X-Star will eventually (if not already) be discontinued.


Not suprised, thanks for the info


----------



## guitarwar241

Does ToastyX update his NVIDIA Pixel Patch tool? With the new patch that came out, the SLI limits can't be found and it screws up 120Hz for me (I'm using a GTX 690). Had to revert back to the old driver.


----------



## guitarwar241

Double post.


----------



## inertianinja

I know people were experimenting with different gauge DVI cables...

Has anyone played with different gauge power cables? I went digging through my office server closet in search of a replacement power cord (US plug), and found that we had 18ga cables and 14ga cables.

Might this have some positive effect with overclocking?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inertianinja*
> 
> I know people were experimenting with different gauge DVI cables...
> 
> Has anyone played with different gauge power cables? I went digging through my office server closet in search of a replacement power cord (US plug), and found that we had 18ga cables and 14ga cables.
> 
> Might this have some positive effect with overclocking?


Might do, Spartan found that shorter length cables helped, and some people have found thickness to make a difference, though with cables it's very hit-and-miss. I was lucky enough for my included cable to manage 120Hz just fine, some people have ordered the thicker cable multiple times and found just one that lets them push the higher Hz.

There doesn't seem to be any risk of damage here, so I would experiment away. And let us know the results


----------



## Ghost12

I did not have chance to play bf3 before my screen broke when bought it, not played it since fixing it either as waiting for bf4, just thought would load it up and have a look a few minutes ago. Loaded up metro for a quick blast and I must say I am very disappointed. The motion blur and input lag is unplayable on this screen for me in bf3, hurts my eyes also. Looks like I will have to go back to 1080p 60hz 2ms.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> I did not have chance to play bf3 before my screen broke when bought it, not played it since fixing it either as waiting for bf4, just thought would load it up and have a look a few minutes ago. Loaded up metro for a quick blast and I must say I am very disappointed. The motion blur and input lag is unplayable on this screen for me in bf3, hurts my eyes also. Looks like I will have to go back to 1080p 60hz 2ms.


you can turn off the motion blur in most games (not sure on metro, but for sure bf3), if you have that on, then complain about motion blur on the monitor, then you really are not comparing the monitors fairly.

but saying it's unplayable with an extra 6ms of lag, Honestly you are not that good. I say this based on one assumption, if you were that good, and 6ms is that big of a deal, you'd not even have bought this monitor ever, you'd have a 144hz or a 120hz lightboost.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> you can turn off the motion blur in most games (not sure on metro, but for sure bf3), if you have that on, then complain about motion blur on the monitor, then you really are not comparing the monitors fairly.
> 
> but saying it's unplayable with an extra 6ms of lag, Honestly you are not that good. I say this based on one assumption, if you were that good, and 6ms is that big of a deal, you'd not even have bought this monitor ever, you'd have a 144hz lightboost.


I was on metro bf3, motion blur off in game. All low settings, same as on other screen, blur/input or screen lag unplayable. What you see with your eyes has nothing to do with game skill, it is more than noticeable. Am pre loading bf4 now, when play it maybe better, will see in the next couple of days.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Well here is my setup. I have two normal XSTARs right now, overclocked to 96hz, loving it.
> 
> The third monitor is currently an older 24 inch doing nothing. I am getting a Mac Mini. So I want to connect the XSTAR to the mac mini, but since this mac will only be used sometimes, I want to be able to use it for other things, maybe a console, or maybe a third screen along with the other two I have. The only way to really do this is to have more then just DVI.
> 
> So my quesiton is, but now I guess we don't know? If I use it as a third screen for my current setup, I want to overclock it to 96hz to match the other two screens. Then if I switch inputs to say DisplayPort with the Mac Mini, I don't really care what its at, if its 60hz or not. I want to be able to switch back and forth between them, 60hz Mac to 96hz PC. Will this happen or will it change everytime?
> 
> Also, will I notice the "input" lag? I'm never bought this originaly because of that, never cared about it. I do play games though, but I doubt I'd see a difference? Correct?
> 
> **I was just looking at the current Mac Mini (might change when they refresh) but I swear it had Mini Displayport, but now it only shows Thunderbolt, and from my research that only does 1080P?
> 
> **Forgot, my GTX 770 only has HDMI & DisplayPort left. So if I used the DisplayPort for the Mac, HDMI can't do 1440P, unless these monitors & the 770 supports the new standard for HDMI?


Anyone have info on this?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> I was on metro bf3, motion blur off in game. All low settings, same as on other screen, blur/lag unplayable. what you see with your eyes has nothing to do with game skill, it is more than noticeable. Am pre loading bf4 now, when play it maybe better, will see in the next couple of days.


I did word that wrong,
but on bf4. and bf3 the blur isn't much worse than my old 75Hz TN panels (HP branded) and, substantially less when I was smart enough to turn off the extra blur.
I can't say what it looks like on low settings, maybe that reduces the crispness enough to create more software blur?

but I was trying to convey, the 6ms extra lag time, isn't a big deal unless that 6ms is the last mile upgrade.
I feel the crispness of the colors, the resolution and the size, far outweight some value that is almost unmeasurable by the human body. (yes, perceivable in some use-cases, but majority, I don't think I can be convinced) the change to 120hz is much more noticeable than even my change from 16ms to the 8ms.

Sorry again though, I didn't mean to "attack" you, quick reply's arn't my forte


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Anyone have info on this?


yes sir;

thunderbolt port = MiniDP as well
switch between systems 96hz, that's software/PC side, not monitor, so yes, switching (if switching cables) changes to what the OS wants.

input lag, refer to my previous post, it's seriously subjective past a certain point.

is this a multi input?
if not, you need an ACTIVE DP -> DL-VI converter to get 96hz reliably.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I did word that wrong,
> but on bf4. and bf3 the blur isn't much worse than my old 75Hz TN panels (HP branded) and, substantially less when I was smart enough to turn off the extra blur.
> I can't say what it looks like on low settings, maybe that reduces the crispness enough to create more software blur?
> 
> but I was trying to convey, the 6ms extra lag time, isn't a big deal unless that 6ms is the last mile upgrade.
> I feel the crispness of the colors, the resolution and the size, far outweight some value that is almost unmeasurable by the human body. (yes, perceivable in some use-cases, but majority, I don't think I can be convinced) the change to 120hz is much more noticeable than even my change from 16ms to the 8ms.
> 
> Sorry again though, I didn't mean to "attack" you, quick reply's arn't my forte


I did not take any offence, just relaying my instant feeling from the game, it was awful, maybe you are correct, maybe graphic settings, could also be the blur making the lag feel worse. All I know is it was awful, aim was awful, blur was awful and it hurt my eyes. I have not played for weeks really since bf4 beta. I also played bf3, infantry [email protected] 13 something by 7 something, all low with 70 fov so maybe this change also has effected my perception. I am about to upgrade to a 780 lightning so hopefully when get on bf4 a mix of settings will help, maybe even an oc. I was not calling the screen, it is fantastic in all the sp stuff have played on it, the colours and everything is great. In Bf may not even be as perceptible on large cq in a tank but in bf3 in metro it was terrible.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> I did not take any offence, just relaying my instant feeling from the game, it was awful, maybe you are correct, maybe graphic settings, could also be the blur making the lag feel worse. All I know is it was awful, aim was awful, blur was awful and it hurt my eyes. I have not played for weeks really since bf4 beta. I also played bf3, infantry [email protected] 13 something by 7 something, all low with 70 fov so maybe this change also has effected my perception. I am about to upgrade to a 780 lightning so hopefully when get on bf4 a mix of settings will help, maybe even an oc. I was not calling the screen, it is fantastic in all the sp stuff have played on it, the colours and everything is great. In Bf may not even be as perceptible on large cq in a tank but in bf3 in metro it was terrible.


wait, you are not playing @ 1440 res? scaled?


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> wait, you are not playing @ 1440 res? scaled?


? 1440p in game.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> I also played bf3, infantry [email protected] 13 something by 7 something,


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> wait, you are not playing @ 1440 res? scaled?


sorry, that's what threw me off, old settings -> new... carry on


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> sorry, that's what threw me off, old settings -> new... carry on


Lol, if can get this download done, maybe a vpn connection will be able to compare later. May take more game config file work or settings.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> yes sir;
> 
> thunderbolt port = MiniDP as well
> switch between systems 96hz, that's software/PC side, not monitor, so yes, switching (if switching cables) changes to what the OS wants.
> 
> input lag, refer to my previous post, it's seriously subjective past a certain point.
> 
> is this a multi input?
> if not, you need an ACTIVE DP -> DL-VI converter to get 96hz reliably.


Thank you very much. The issue now is that I would use the DP to MiniDP for the Mac. But my videocard only has DP & HDMI left over, so what would my option be to be able to overclock? Is Duel Link DVI the only one that can be overclocked to 96hz? Yes the third monitor is multi input.

So the quesiton is, I would need to use HDMI for my current setup, so does a 770GTX and that monitor support the new HDMI standard that allows 4K resolution, and would it be overclockable.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Thank you very much. The issue now is that I would use the DP to MiniDP for the Mac. But my videocard only has DP & HDMI left over, so what would my option be to be able to overclock? Is Duel Link DVI the only one that can be overclocked to 96hz? Yes the third monitor is multi input.


someone else is going to have to chime in here...
no idea, supposedly you could get it to 96 with DP/DVI but.... i know it would have to be an ACTIVE converter though.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> ? 1440p in game.


What's the 13 something by 7 something?


----------



## caenlen

not sure why but recently when i apply overclockt he vram will not downlock it stays at default 1502 24.7 while my monitor is oc'd?

before it would downclock... :/ nothing has changed besides new whql drivers yesterday

gtx 780 ^


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What's the 13 something by 7 something?


Lowered res used to play at for bf3 infantry on 1080p native screen, cant remember the numbers exactly.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> someone else is going to have to chime in here...
> no idea, supposedly you could get it to 96 with DP/DVI but.... i know it would have to be an ACTIVE converter though.


Yes, but the mac will be using the DP. So it has to be HDMI, I am fine with it not being overclocked, but no point if it will only be 1080p


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Yes, but the mac will be using the DP. So it has to be HDMI, I am fine with it not being overclocked, but no point if it will only be 1080p


in that case no,
1440p will not go over HDMI.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> in that case no,
> 1440p will not go over HDMI.


So the only way to get 1440P on both the Mac & my current setup would be to have an active DuelLink DVI to miniDisplay port (which sucks because those are expensive) and use another one of those active adapters but normal DisplayPort. Darn...thats a bit expensive.

I suppose I could use a DP to DP cable, and a DP to MiniDP and just switch the cables when needed, since the Mac Mini won't be used all that often, but I hate that lol

One last question, I'm not sure if we ended up answering this. Can the DisplayPort be overclocked on these multi monitors?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> So the only way to get 1440P on both the Mac & my current setup would be to have an active DuelLink DVI to miniDisplay port (which sucks because those are expensive) and use another one of those active adapters but normal DisplayPort. Darn...thats a bit expensive.
> 
> I suppose I could use a DP to DP cable, and a DP to MiniDP and just switch the cables when needed, since the Mac Mini won't be used all that often, but I hate that lol
> 
> One last question, I'm not sure if we ended up answering this. Can the DisplayPort be overclocked on these multi monitors?


no one has been able to prove it is overclocking.
some people get the hz, but haven't been able to prove it's not just dropping frames.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> no one has been able to prove it is overclocking.
> some people get the hz, but haven't been able to prove it's not just dropping frames.


there is a frame drop tester you can do. i have done it and = dropped frames on mine.

each panel is diff tho.


----------



## Aithos

So I've read a lot of this thread (not all) and the general consensus seems to be that these monitors have "little" input lag. Has anyone done any actual testing like review sites such as Anandtech do? You've all seen the charts, the ones that show what they measured for input lag vs other comparable monitors...

For the sake of clarity: I am not referring to pixel response time. I don't care if it's 6ms, 8ms or 1ms like the Asus VG248qe. Pixel response is nearly meaningless because the difference in a couple "real" ms is nothing and most monitors with 1ms response don't end up being that in the real world, it's like contrast ratios (subjective). However, I'm referring to the processing lag that most IPS/PLS panels have. I've heard that because these are single input and don't include a scaler that the processing lag is eliminated, is that true?

I used to competitive game, I play FPS as well as MOBA games like LoL and MMORPGs like WoW and I cannot deal with 30+ ms of input lag like a lot of the Dell/major brand IPS panels. I want to be 100% sure that when I get this I'm not going to notice that it's worse than what I'm currently using. Why can't someone make a glossy 120hz 1920x1200+ monitor in 24", I don't care if it's TN or IPS. I don't want to downgrade to 1080p and I can't stand matte finish screens but I need 120hz!!!

WHY MONITOR COMPANIES WHY!?!?!


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> there is a frame drop tester you can do. i have done it and = dropped frames on mine.
> 
> each panel is diff tho.


What do dropping frames actually mean? Is the monitor usable when this happens?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> What do dropping frames actually mean? Is the monitor usable when this happens?


It means that it isn't running true 120Hz. To compensate for the increased refresh rate, the monitor has to "drop frames" meaning that out of 120 frames per second, you'll only be getting 80~100 frames per second (just an estimate, not really sure how many frames you lose).

I'm trying to ask the person who did the review about the 120Hz multi-input versions on TechnologyX to take a photo of the frameskipping test so we can find out if it is true 120Hz or there is frame skipping.


----------



## Intrexion

Anyone familiar with "storewithstory" on eBay? Can get the Qnix from him for $299 while other big-name sellers ask atleast $340 (there are some who ask $300 but they dont ship to The Netherlands).


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It means that it isn't running true 120Hz. To compensate for the increased refresh rate, the monitor has to "drop frames" meaning that out of 120 frames per second, you'll only be getting 80~100 frames per second (just an estimate, not really sure how many frames you lose).
> 
> I'm trying to ask the person who did the review about the 120Hz multi-input versions on TechnologyX to take a photo of the frameskipping test so we can find out if it is true 120Hz or there is frame skipping.


It's more like it runs at 60 fps no matter what HZ signal you send it, so it will drop as many frames as necessary to maintain 60 fps.


----------



## JE14

So I've decided to go ahead and order a new monitor while I ship my dead one off to Korea. Just wondering if you guys think I should order from amazon or ebay. Amazon usually has a great return policy but I don't want to be stuck with paying returning shipping again if anything goes wrong. Does anyone know if return shipping on defective items is free for qnix's bought on amazon?


----------



## sidewu

I use my old monitor as a side monitor and for the PS3. The other day I tried to set it as main monitor and play some games to get more FPS. It was awful, I had to change it back within the first hour because it was overwhelming.

The step from 1080p to 1440p is not that noticeable but if you go from 1080p to 1440p, wow.


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE14*
> 
> So I've decided to go ahead and order a new monitor while I ship my dead one off to Korea. Just wondering if you guys think I should order from amazon or ebay. Amazon usually has a great return policy but I don't want to be stuck with paying returning shipping again if anything goes wrong. Does anyone know if return shipping on defective items is free for qnix's bought on amazon?


Just wondering how much did you pay for returning it, and what are they doing? Money back or something?


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intrexion*
> 
> Anyone familiar with "storewithstory" on eBay? Can get the Qnix from him for $299 while other big-name sellers ask atleast $340 (there are some who ask $300 but they dont ship to The Netherlands).


I bought mine from bigclothcraft on ebay, they shipped to me here in NL with DHL and I only had to pay €57 import tax and DHL fees. Some sellers use FedEx, and some Dutch buyers have been getting hit with really high fees....


----------



## JE14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolemyowncar*
> 
> Just wondering how much did you pay for returning it, and what are they doing? Money back or something?


I haven't sent it yet but I imagine it's around 100-120$. I bought it from green-sum and they told me there was nothing they could do but to send it in to the manufacturer for repair.


----------



## MeneerVent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> I bought mine from bigclothcraft on ebay, they shipped to me here in NL with DHL and I only had to pay €57 import tax and DHL fees. Some sellers use FedEx, and some Dutch buyers have been getting hit with really high fees....


So with FedEX I can expect an amount higher than €57 (I'm dutch too)? Accesoireswhore let me know that he only ships with FedEX to the netherlands, maybe it would be a better idea to buy it from bigclothcraft than. How much where your DHL fees?


----------



## Intrexion

I dont mind paying custom fees as long as they dont exceed 100 euros. From what I've read on tweakers.net FedEx charges less than DHL?..


----------



## sidewu

I asked the ebay seller to under value the monitor. It cost me $23 duties in Canada. Some sellers did not want to under value and some other wanted to. Just ask around.


----------



## Intrexion

"storewithstory" has the best price for me and is willing to undervalue. I'm only weary of ordering because no one in this thread seems to have bought their Qnix/X-star from them.


----------



## MeneerVent

It looks like it will be cheaper to buy a new one. At least if sending with FedEX from Netherlands.


----------



## Lysergix710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intrexion*
> 
> "storewithstory" has the best price for me and is willing to undervalue. I'm only weary of ordering because no one in this thread seems to have bought their Qnix/X-star from them.


I think this is a green sum listing matching storewithstories lowest price ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11

Now if only that listing was glossy i would order


----------



## Intrexion

Storewithstory accepted my 300 offer, greensun asks 330 and doesnt even ship to my country. They have seperate listings for excluded countries that are priced higher. I contacted them and they say its because shipping to the excluded countries is more expensive.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intrexion*
> 
> I dont mind paying custom fees as long as they dont exceed 100 euros. From what I've read on tweakers.net FedEx charges less than DHL?..


At least here in Canada, I got charged about $10 more from FedEx, it was the same package. I think it depends.


----------



## blunden

Very happy with my Qnix from AccessoriesWhole so far. It is pretty huge though. I did however have to use a knife to widen the hole in the stand through which you screw in the screw for the stand a little. FedEx delivered it today, despite previously holding it until Thursday. They even went out of their way to call me when they were unable to deliver it to the office and instead came around my apartment with it.

Now I just have to find a way to fit my old Dell 2007WFP 20" IPS onto my desk. Did I mention the Qnix is huge?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aithos*
> 
> So I've read a lot of this thread (not all) and the general consensus seems to be that these monitors have "little" input lag. Has anyone done any actual testing like review sites such as Anandtech do? You've all seen the charts, the ones that show what they measured for input lag vs other comparable monitors...
> 
> For the sake of clarity: I am not referring to pixel response time. I don't care if it's 6ms, 8ms or 1ms like the Asus VG248qe. Pixel response is nearly meaningless because the difference in a couple "real" ms is nothing and most monitors with 1ms response don't end up being that in the real world, it's like contrast ratios (subjective). However, I'm referring to the processing lag that most IPS/PLS panels have. I've heard that because these are single input and don't include a scaler that the processing lag is eliminated, is that true?
> 
> I used to competitive game, I play FPS as well as MOBA games like LoL and MMORPGs like WoW and I cannot deal with 30+ ms of input lag like a lot of the Dell/major brand IPS panels. I want to be 100% sure that when I get this I'm not going to notice that it's worse than what I'm currently using. Why can't someone make a glossy 120hz 1920x1200+ monitor in 24", I don't care if it's TN or IPS. I don't want to downgrade to 1080p and I can't stand matte finish screens but I need 120hz!!!
> 
> WHY MONITOR COMPANIES WHY!?!?!


that lag is much lower on single input models, and the full input lag is NOT just the monitor, it's from the mouse to the screen. you need to have someone test and let you know, from mouse polling rate, GPU frame time, to the monitor pixel response time.

unless you are speaking of only the GPU to screen, then that still varys based on interface type (multi input and scalars increase time logarithmically as data rates go up (DP and DL-DVI are considered electronically by some to be a single input type)) and GPU framebuffer.

me testing mine, and then joe smoe from canada testing the VG248qe, will give us different #'s, that cannot be DIRECTLY compared, they can be referenced, but not compared..


----------



## Intrexion

I've gone ahead and placed my order for the qnix with storewithstory. I'll keep you updated wether I have to pay any customs fees or whatever.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Red cap has had the most bad buying experiences on this forum. Which is probably part of the reason why he's the cheapest.


dammit, i ordered from him, now you got me worried.


----------



## ya mother

Took the plunge and ordered a Qnix Tempered Glass from accessorisewhole who are gonna mark it as $200 for me.


----------



## ya mother

Took the plunge and ordered a Qnix Tempered Glass from accessorisewhole who are gonna mark it as $200 for me.


----------



## gonsa

So, my Qnix from acessorieswhole arrived yesterday. 0 dead pixels!! also very few blb.
i'm very happy with it.

now i've got two questions:
1st - I tried to scale it down to 1920x1080 through nvidia control panel but it gets very blurred and out of focus at that resolution. I know it's not it's native resolution but is it possible to have it at 1080 with a clear and sharp image?

2nd - I tried to use some ICC profiles for different Hz that someone posted here some days ago but I didn't see any difference when applied them. I followed this link http://www.lightroomforums.net/showthread.php?14070-How-to-assign-an-sRGB-ICC-Profile-to-your-monitor-(Windows) on how to apply. I set them as default but I don't see any changes.. What am I missing?

thank you


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> So, my Qnix from acessorieswhole arrived yesterday. 0 dead pixels!! also very few blb.
> i'm very happy with it.
> 
> now i've got two questions:
> 1st - I tried to scale it down to 1920x1080 through nvidia control panel but it gets very blurred and out of focus at that resolution. I know it's not it's native resolution but is it possible to have it at 1080 with a clear and sharp image?


Why would you want to scale it down to 1080p?


----------



## gonsa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Why would you want to scale it down to 1080p?


to be able to run some heavy games at decent framerates..


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> to be able to run some heavy games at decent framerates..


Sort of defeats the object really as your not gonna benefit from all the lovely eye candy that you get from playing on a 2560x1440 Monitor.

What graphics card you using?


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Why would you want to scale it down to 1080p?


Presumably for gaming in demanding games where he can't run full resolution at a high enough framerate. I personally set my driver to apply no scaling so that it would show at native resolution with a black frame around it. Since I upgraded from a 20" monitor the usable area should still be at least as big as my old monitor and the size helps out when doing graphics work and general desktop stuff.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> So, my Qnix from acessorieswhole arrived yesterday. 0 dead pixels!! also very few blb.
> i'm very happy with it.
> 
> now i've got two questions:
> 1st - I tried to scale it down to 1920x1080 through nvidia control panel but it gets very blurred and out of focus at that resolution. I know it's not it's native resolution but is it possible to have it at 1080 with a clear and sharp image?
> 
> 2nd - I tried to use some ICC profiles for different Hz that someone posted here some days ago but I didn't see any difference when applied them. I followed this link http://www.lightroomforums.net/showthread.php?14070-How-to-assign-an-sRGB-ICC-Profile-to-your-monitor-(Windows) on how to apply. I set them as default but I don't see any changes.. What am I missing?
> 
> thank you


1) Why not just keep the 2560x1440 res and change the resolution in-game? If I need 100+FPS, I normally keep the 1440p res in-game and just lower the settings. I could care less about eye candy for FPS games like BF3, though lowered settings aren't as noticeable in BF3 compared to other games.

2) Make sure you are forcing color profiles through Windows. I'm not sure if Nvidia Control Panel does this, but AMD's CCC can force your own color settings, which diables/unchecks the Windows settings (see picture below).

Just making sure but you are doing this right? (Open in new tab if you cannot see it)


----------



## gonsa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> 2) Make sure you are forcing color profiles through Windows. I'm not sure if Nvidia Control Panel does this, but AMD's CCC can force your own color settings, which diables/unchecks the Windows settings (see picture below).
> 
> Just making sure but you are doing this right? (Open in new tab if you cannot see it)


yes i'm doing it like in your image. i added all three profiles for different Hz, i set one as default but nothing changes visually.
i'm not doing anything in the nvidia control panel aside from the OC to 120Hz.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> not sure why but recently when i apply overclockt he vram will not downlock it stays at default 1502 24.7 while my monitor is oc'd?
> 
> before it would downclock... :/ nothing has changed besides new whql drivers yesterday
> 
> gtx 780 ^


no one has answered me yet, just curious ^


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> These monitors are not HDCP compliant so the PS3 will not allow itself to be used on your QNix.


Sorry to be quoting such an old post but I just wanted to point out that it actually is HDCP compliant, at least according to Nvidia control panel. I'm a bit surprised it us though as I would've guessed that was handled by the chip that handled scaling, OSD etc.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> yes i'm doing it like in your image. i added all three profiles for different Hz, i set one as default but nothing changes visually.
> i'm not doing anything in the nvidia control panel aside from the OC to 120Hz.


ICC profiles don't overclock. They can compensate for the colour variances due to overclocks. Check the first post in this thread, there's a section on how to overclock.


----------



## gonsa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> ICC profiles don't overclock. They can compensate for the colour variances due to overclocks. Check the first post in this thread, there's a section on how to overclock.


i'm overclokcing simply with the nvidia control panel. not using toastyx programs because i'm using a single gtx780.
the icc profiles someone posted back here was supposely to enhance the colours with different OCs. I do apply them but nothing changes to my eyes.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> i'm overclokcing simply with the nvidia control panel. not using toastyx programs because i'm using a single gtx780.
> the icc profiles someone posted back here was supposely to enhance the colours with different OCs. I do apply them but nothing changes to my eyes.


Ah, I missed that.

The profile changes can be very subtle. And nvidia can't seem to hold ICC profiles in games, which is a pain. So when you apply the profile nothing happens at all?


----------



## gonsa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Ah, I missed that.
> 
> The profile changes can be very subtle. And nvidia can't seem to hold ICC profiles in games, which is a pain. So when you apply the profile nothing happens at all?


yep, i add them, make it default and nothing..
how are the ICC profiles created? now i just wanted to see changes happening..


----------



## jc265

I get my Qnix 2710 today! 4 days to get from South Korea to Kansas City. Not bad at all. I can't wait to try out games at 1440p/120hz!


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> These monitors are not HDCP compliant so the PS3 will not allow itself to be used on your QNix.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to be quoting such an old post but I just wanted to point out that it actually is HDCP compliant, at least according to Nvidia control panel. I'm a bit surprised it us though as I would've guessed that was handled by the chip that handled scaling, OSD etc.
Click to expand...

Yeah, my mistake. It's test mode that broke HDCP compliancy, the monitors themselves are fine. That said, I don't think you can use a PS3 with these anyways unless you get the scaler on the multi-input version.


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Yeah, my mistake. It's test mode that broke HDCP compliancy, the monitors themselves are fine. That said, I don't think you can use a PS3 with these anyways unless you get the scaler on the multi-input version.


Yes, the part about the PS3 needing the multi-input version with a scaler is true as far as I know.


----------



## Broadband

Hello lads,

just got my Qnix Matte 2710 evolution ii. I'm having a hard time trying to calibrate it. Even after using a "huey Pro" I am not satisfied at all. The profile generated by that tool was way toooo yellow-ish.

Then I came across this thread and in particulat to this line:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by hutt132 View Post
> 
> I have a ColorMunki Display and it made my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Matte monitor look much better at 120Hz. The only negative thing about it is that the colors look ever so slightly washed out. I calibrated with the brightness at 22 clicks from the lowest setting, monitor tilted back, and at night with the lights off.


What does he mean by 22 clicks from the lowest setting. I understrand why he's talking about clicks, since the scale is not linear (1 click doesn't always result in +1 brightness). Assuming the lowest value is zero (it is, right?), by smashing the brightness 22 times up, my screen is still way way too dark, to the point the Dota2 is barely visible.

Can you please clarify? Plus, should I assume he left the contrast at max?

EDIT: i am not even happy with my blacks, maybe once I sort this out they'll get better too. So far they look more gray than black -.-
Thanks,
BB


----------



## yasamoka

Clicks of brightness on the monitor itself. Physically pressing the buttons to the right-hand side 22 times from the minimum brightness. Don't adjust anything in software, the ICC profile does that (and not by coarse adjustments like sliders but rather smooth curves).

11-12 clicks is about 140-150cd/m2 on my monitor. 22 is quite high.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> yep, i add them, make it default and nothing..
> how are the ICC profiles created? now i just wanted to see changes happening..


u have to go to control panel, appearance, display, then right hand side it will say calibrate monitor colors, do that, then AND ONLY THEN will it accept the icc profiles when u set them as default.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> there is a frame drop tester you can do. i have done it and = dropped frames on mine.
> 
> each panel is diff tho.


They are all the same when it comes to dropping frames or not. The variance seen is a matter of quantity (in the case of the single DVI input - how much does it overclock?) over quality (Does the multi-input model drops frames or not?).

Can you please post the proof? I'm assuming you are using a multi-input Qnix QX2710?

Edit: *@gonsa:* Use Color Profile Keeper. Anything is better than the built-in Windows Color Calibration functionality.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> They are all the same when it comes to dropping frames or not. The variance seen is a matter of quantity (in the case of the single DVI input - how much does it overclock?) over quality (Does the multi-input model drops frames or not?).
> 
> Can you please post the proof? I'm assuming you are using a multi-input Qnix QX2710?
> 
> Edit: *@gonsa:* Use Color Profile Keeper. Anything is better than the built-in Windows Color Calibration functionality.


what are you even saying?
how does quailty factor into dropped frames?


----------



## gonsa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> u have to go to control panel, appearance, display, then right hand side it will say calibrate monitor colors, do that, then AND ONLY THEN will it accept the icc profiles when u set them as default.


This!!


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> yes i'm doing it like in your image. i added all three profiles for different Hz, i set one as default but nothing changes visually.
> i'm not doing anything in the nvidia control panel aside from the OC to 120Hz.


Did you tick the box 'Use my settings for this device'? When I change color profiles I see a definite change, and I don't have to use any 3rd party software to keep it either....I am however using the ToastyX patch and CRU for my overclock, I don't know if that makes a difference or not.


----------



## Broadband

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Clicks of brightness on the monitor itself. Physically pressing the buttons to the right-hand side 22 times from the minimum brightness. Don't adjust anything in software, the ICC profile does that (and not by coarse adjustments like sliders but rather smooth curves).
> 
> 11-12 clicks is about 140-150cd/m2 on my monitor. 22 is quite high.


Thanks for the reply. I figured he was talking of manually adjusting it on the screen OSD. My question was: is teh minimum brightness zero (that's what i get when I go all the way left)? If so, even 22 clicks righward aren't enough, still too dark. Weird that 12 are enough for you.

The above quote was copied and pasted from the first page of this thread where I also got the profile file.

How do I tell Cat control center to not touch anything?
Edit: as for the last question. When applying a profile through win them CCC seems to deactivate its own color adjustments.

Thanks again


----------



## P1ngou1N

Have you tried Battlefield 4 with your 1440p monitors ? If yes, which graphic card are you using, wich settings, and is it playable ?

My monitor should be here next monday, and am wondering what card to get.
I will try with my gtx580 but am sure it will be slow as hell.

Do you think gtx770 with 2go is enough ?


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Have you tried Battlefield 4 with your 1440p monitors ? If yes, which graphic card are you using, wich settings, and is it playable ?
> 
> My monitor should be here next monday, and am wondering what card to get.
> I will try with my gtx580 but am sure it will be slow as hell.
> 
> Do you think gtx770 with 2go is enough ?


I played the multiplayer beta, maxed out on a GTX770 (2GB version) and it was beautiful. Though I never got to see any building fall, so maybe the FPS would have gone down to non-ideal specs, but overall it was smooth and no issues.

Though I do have 16GB of RAM, 4770K i7 and on an SSD.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Have you tried Battlefield 4 with your 1440p monitors ? If yes, which graphic card are you using, wich settings, and is it playable ?
> 
> My monitor should be here next monday, and am wondering what card to get.
> I will try with my gtx580 but am sure it will be slow as hell.
> 
> Do you think gtx770 with 2go is enough ?


Should get my monitor on monday and im playing bf4 at the moment with my GTX770 and a 27" 1920x1080 120hz and its smooth as.....but with 2560x1440p im hoping it wont be too bad, if so im gonna drop xAA to zero as with a 2560x1440 i read on here you dont need it on with having so many more pixels you wont see the jaggys as much.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Should get my monitor on monday and im playing bf4 at the moment with my GTX770 and a 27" 1920x1080 120hz and its smooth as.....but with 2560x1440p im hoping it wont be too bad, if so im gonna drop xAA to zero as with a 2560x1440 i read on here you dont need it on with having so many more pixels you wont see the jaggys as much.


i'm playing it with a 7970 GHZ, high @1440,
but my system is a i7-4770K @4.9ghz, 32GB of ram, and 4X ssd raid-0


----------



## jc265

Just got my QNIX QX2710 today and need a little help on overclocking. Followed all instructions but when I OC to 120hz I get blue lines through movies, 110hz the screen went all white with some blue squares, 96hz the screen went all blue with dark squares. What am I doing wrong? Do I have a monitor that wont do past 60hz without issue? I'm using a 7970ghz edition 3gb card if that helps.


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Have you tried Battlefield 4 with your 1440p monitors ? If yes, which graphic card are you using, wich settings, and is it playable ?
> 
> My monitor should be here next monday, and am wondering what card to get.
> I will try with my gtx580 but am sure it will be slow as hell.
> 
> Do you think gtx770 with 2go is enough ?


For 1440p 120 hz, I would really recommend a 3GB 780.
I'm running in to the limit of my vram (670 SLI) easily by just selecting high settings without msaa.
I lowered some less important settings to medium to get around 1.7 GB usage, I get roughly 100-150 fps.
I have to say, you don't really notice the difference between high/med and ultra, unless you start staring at textures.
I honestly just want ~120 FPS to make use of the 120 Hz, if that means lowering some things to medium, so be it.

settings:


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Have you tried Battlefield 4 with your 1440p monitors ? If yes, which graphic card are you using, wich settings, and is it playable ?
> 
> My monitor should be here next monday, and am wondering what card to get.
> I will try with my gtx580 but am sure it will be slow as hell.
> 
> Do you think gtx770 with 2go is enough ?
> 
> 
> 
> For 1440p 120 hz, I would really recommend a 3GB 780.
> I'm running in to the limit of my vram (670 SLI) easily by just selecting high settings without msaa.
> I lowered some less important settings to medium to get around 1.7 GB usage, I get roughly 100-150 fps.
> I have to say, you don't really notice the difference between high/med and ultra, unless you start staring at textures.
> I honestly just want ~120 FPS to make use of the 120 Hz, if that means lowering some things to medium, so be it.
> 
> settings:
Click to expand...

only thing I'm going to disagree with you...

if there wasn't much difference between med and ultra... then we would not have... the ultra settings... there is massive difference.
you always stare at textures... the entire game is textures.


----------



## P1ngou1N

Thanks for your answers. I think am gonna go for the GTX770 and will play BF4 in High or less.
And don't really want to invest much in graphics now because it seems 800series is gonna come soon next year. Ithink I will buy the gtx880 when it's available, hoping it will have 4go Vram and lasts longer.

Btw, I just got (literally) my monitor. Expected next monday, already here. With quite a surprise : No taxes. It took only 4 days to deliver in France : https://www.fedex.com/fedextrack/?tracknumbers=553324214586&locale=fr_FR&cntry_code=fr&language=french
Am waiting for my friend this afternoon to unpack these babies (ordered one for me and one for a friend). Hoping to not have bad surprises.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Thanks for your answers. I think am gonna go for the GTX770 and will play BF4 in High or less.
> And don't really want to invest much in graphics now because it seems 800series is gonna come soon next year. Ithink I will buy the gtx880 when it's available, hoping it will have 4go Vram and lasts longer.
> 
> Btw, I just got (literally) my monitor. Expected next monday, already here. With quite a surprise : No taxes. It took only 4 days to deliver in France : https://www.fedex.com/fedextrack/?tracknumbers=553324214586&locale=fr_FR&cntry_code=fr&language=french
> Am waiting for my friend this afternoon to unpack these babies (ordered one for me and one for a friend). Hoping to not have bad surprises.


Who did you get them from? and let us know how they are.


----------



## P1ngou1N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Who did you get them from? and let us know how they are.


Will do









Ordered from Red-Cap on Ebay for 320 dollars each in PerfectPixel version.
A bit disappointed by the package however. The monitors were sent without any sort of protection (in their boxes).
I don't really know how it's called in English, but there wasn't even Bullpack (the kind of plastic paper with bubbles to protect packages...) around the monitor's boxes.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Will do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered from Red-Cap on Ebay for 320 dollars each in PerfectPixel version.
> A bit disappointed by the package however. The monitors were sent without any sort of protection (in their boxes).
> I don't really know how it's called in English, but there wasn't even Bullpack (the kind of plastic paper with bubbles to protect packages...) around the monitor's boxes.


it's called bubblewrap, AFAIK.

i ordered the exact same monitor from red-cap, it's on the way to slovakia, fedex estimated delivery is monday next week. i will definitely post how it is, since i read bad stuff about red-cap all over the place, even though the vast majority of ebay feedback is positive.

i asked them to declare as gift for 149.99 EUR to avoid excessive import charges, they replied via mail after shipping, that they declared as i told them to, so we'll see.


----------



## P1ngou1N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> it's called bubblewrap, AFAIK.


Thank you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> i asked them to declare as gift for 149.99 EUR to avoid excessive import charges, they replied via mail after shipping, that they declared as i told them to, so we'll see.


It seems they didn't sent mine as a gift (as i asked them to). I believe i really got lucky to bypass customs (and i am usually unlucky on these things).
Cross your fingers, you can be lucky as well


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Thanks for your answers. I think am gonna go for the GTX770 and will play BF4 in High or less.
> And don't really want to invest much in graphics now because it seems 800series is gonna come soon next year. Ithink I will buy the gtx880 when it's available, hoping it will have 4go Vram and lasts longer.
> 
> Btw, I just got (literally) my monitor. Expected next monday, already here. With quite a surprise : No taxes. It took only 4 days to deliver in France : https://www.fedex.com/fedextrack/?tracknumbers=553324214586&locale=fr_FR&cntry_code=fr&language=french
> Am waiting for my friend this afternoon to unpack these babies (ordered one for me and one for a friend). Hoping to not have bad surprises.


Why not an R9-280X if you want more VRAM? You also get a faster memory subsystem and generally same or better performance at 1440p.

@drdrache: Quality vs. quantity doesn't really mean "quality" in the sense you have understood it. *A* quality, aka does the monitor drop frames or not.


----------



## P1ngou1N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Why not an R9-280X if you want more VRAM? You also get a faster memory subsystem and generally same or better performance at 1440p.


Yeah I know, it will kind of sound silly but i like Nvidia products. I never had issues with their pilots and all the cards i had till now worked really well. I have more trust in them than i have in AMD.
And since they are about the same price, and the same overall performance, i prefer to go Nvidia. The only downside to me is the lack of 3go Vram which are on the AMD.

Otherwise, *we unpacked our two Qnix* (one is for my friend). They are awesome. Just being in windows and surfing is quite a shock








We have no dead or stuck pixels, and no BLB (or really very few). There was a note in both boxes from Red-Cap, so at least they opened them, can't say for sure they tested them.

I tried overclocking mine, it takes 120hz without issues (but i had just my phone to take pictures of the missing frames test).

I also played a little bit of BF4 with my old GTX580, i run about 70-90fps with preset to medium, which is quite impressive to me. I think i will be able to go "high" with the GTX770, and maybe some options to ultra.

All in all we were really lucky I believe. No taxes, No dead pixels and no BLB on both screens, jackpot !

EDIT : Just a quick note about colors. It's amazing to go from TN to PLS. It's really day and night to me.
EDIT 2 : Thanks to all overclocker's guys who helped me choose my screen. Two weeks ago, i didn't thought such monitors existed for this price (230€ with delivery).


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Thanks for your answers. I think am gonna go for the GTX770 and will play BF4 in High or less.
> And don't really want to invest much in graphics now because it seems 800series is gonna come soon next year. Ithink I will buy the gtx880 when it's available, hoping it will have 4go Vram and lasts longer.
> 
> Btw, I just got (literally) my monitor. Expected next monday, already here. With quite a surprise : No taxes. It took only 4 days to deliver in France : https://www.fedex.com/fedextrack/?tracknumbers=553324214586&locale=fr_FR&cntry_code=fr&language=french
> Am waiting for my friend this afternoon to unpack these babies (ordered one for me and one for a friend). Hoping to not have bad surprises.
> 
> 
> 
> Why not an R9-280X if you want more VRAM? You also get a faster memory subsystem and generally same or better performance at 1440p.
> 
> @drdrache: Quality vs. quantity doesn't really mean "quality" in the sense you have understood it. *A* quality, aka does the monitor drop frames or not.
Click to expand...

thanks, like I said, I misunderstood.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Why not an R9-280X if you want more VRAM? You also get a faster memory subsystem and generally same or better performance at 1440p.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I know, it will kind of sound silly but i like Nvidia products. I never had issues with their pilots and all the cards i had till now worked really well. I have more trust in them than i have in AMD.
> And since they are about the same price, and the same overall performance, i prefer to go Nvidia. The only downside to me is the lack of 3go Vram which are on the AMD.
> 
> Otherwise, *we unpacked our two Qnix* (one is for my friend). They are awesome. Just being in windows and surfing is quite a shock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have no dead or stuck pixels, and no BLB (or really very few). There was a note in both boxes from Red-Cap, so at least they opened them, can't say for sure they tested them.
> 
> I tried overclocking mine, it takes 120hz without issues (but i had just my phone to take pictures of the missing frames test).
> 
> I also played a little bit of BF4 with my old GTX580, i run about 70-90fps with preset to medium, which is quite impressive to me. I think i will be able to go "high" with the GTX770, and maybe some options to ultra.
> 
> All in all we were really lucky I believe. No taxes, No dead pixels and no BLB on both screens, jackpot !
> 
> EDIT : Just a quick note about colors. It's amazing to go from TN to PLS. It's really day and night to me.
> EDIT 2 : Thanks to all overclocker's guys who helped me choose my screen. Two weeks ago, i didn't thought such monitors existed for this price (230€ with delivery).
Click to expand...

bf4, on high/ultra on my 7970 GHZ (read 280x) @ 1440P, 120hz, i'm getting 80-90-100 FPS. and by the reviews the 770 is about 15-20% slower than the 280x, and until the prices drop like nvidia has stated, over $100 more expensive, and has less ram.

right now, AMD is the price/performance king. when the TI and GHZ 780's come out, it may not stay that way.
I currently am in a dislike mode for nvidia because they are trying (and as gamers/consumers we are letting them) nickle and dime us to death.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> u have to go to control panel, appearance, display, then right hand side it will say calibrate monitor colors, do that, then AND ONLY THEN will it accept the icc profiles when u set them as default.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> This!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> Did you tick the box 'Use my settings for this device'? When I change color profiles I see a definite change, and I don't have to use any 3rd party software to keep it either....I am however using the ToastyX patch and CRU for my overclock, I don't know if that makes a difference or not.


Try using the Color Profile Keeper. The Windows solution for custom color profiles is kind of finicky. Sometimes they get turned off after exiting 3D applications (like games), and they also are usually not active while in-game.

Color Profile Keeper allows you to add in an .icc, associate it with a monitor, and force that profile at all times









http://goebish.free.fr/cpk/


----------



## P1ngou1N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> bf4, on high/ultra on my 7970 GHZ (read 280x) @ 1440P, 120hz, i'm getting 80-90-100 FPS. and by the reviews the 770 is about 15-20% slower than the 280x, and until the prices drop like nvidia has stated, over $100 more expensive, and has less ram.
> 
> right now, AMD is the price/performance king. when the TI and GHZ 780's come out, it may not stay that way.
> I currently am in a dislike mode for nvidia because they are trying (and as gamers/consumers we are letting them) nickle and dime us to death.


Well, I don't really want to go off topic, but i have to disagree with you.
I looked a lot of review before thinking about the gtx770, here are a few on games i'm interested in:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7400/the-radeon-r9-280x-review-feat-asus-xfx/12
http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/61201-amd-radeon-r9-280x-vs-nvidia-geforce-gtx-770-4k/?page=2
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/R9_280X_Direct_Cu_II_TOP/7.html
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_r7_260x_r9_270x_280x_review_benchmarks,18.html

I never saw one review were 280x was 15% faster. At best, it's on par with GTX770 in the reviews i saw.
Moreover from what i read, nvidia is quieter, with less power consumption, better cooling and better OC.

In my country (France), price drops have already happened. 770GTX is 280€ (there is even a gigabyte for 250€), with Assassin's Creed 3, Splinter Cell Blacklist and Batman Origins. I think I can sell each codes for 25€ which brings the GTX770 at almost 200€.

I really don't see were 280x is the best actual price/performance.

Prove me wrong before i make my purchase because i really want to buy the best one available in this range of price. But for me, it seems GTX770 is still the winner.

Quote me and answer in a new thread to stop polluting this one


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P1ngou1N*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> bf4, on high/ultra on my 7970 GHZ (read 280x) @ 1440P, 120hz, i'm getting 80-90-100 FPS. and by the reviews the 770 is about 15-20% slower than the 280x, and until the prices drop like nvidia has stated, over $100 more expensive, and has less ram.
> 
> right now, AMD is the price/performance king. when the TI and GHZ 780's come out, it may not stay that way.
> I currently am in a dislike mode for nvidia because they are trying (and as gamers/consumers we are letting them) nickle and dime us to death.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I don't really want to go off topic, but i have to disagree with you.
> I looked a lot of review before thinking about the gtx770, here are a few on games i'm interested in:
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7400/the-radeon-r9-280x-review-feat-asus-xfx/12
> http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/61201-amd-radeon-r9-280x-vs-nvidia-geforce-gtx-770-4k/?page=2
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/R9_280X_Direct_Cu_II_TOP/7.html
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_r7_260x_r9_270x_280x_review_benchmarks,18.html
> 
> I never saw one review were 280x was 15% faster. At best, it's on par with GTX770 in the reviews i saw.
> Moreover from what i read, nvidia is quieter, with less power consumption, better cooling and better OC.
> 
> In my country (France), price drops have already happened. 770GTX is 280€ (there is even a gigabyte for 250€), with Assassin's Creed 3, Splinter Cell Blacklist and Batman Origins. I think I can sell each codes for 25€ which brings the GTX770 at almost 200€.
> 
> I really don't see were 280x is the best actual price/performance.
> 
> Prove me wrong before i make my purchase because i really want to buy the best one available in this range of price. But for me, it seems GTX770 is still the winner.
> 
> Quote me and answer in a new thread to stop polluting this one
Click to expand...

the 280x is nothing but a faster 7970. there is no heat issues, or sound issues. those are all 290x. so, best bet is look at the 7970's not the 280 reviews. selling games that people already have 99% of the time, doesn't make for a cheaper card, it's a "buy me now gimmick" only adds value IMO if you want and don't have that game.

if you look at ALL of those reviews they are doing 4K res. where both cards show their chip-set age. go find a overclocked ghz 7970 review and use that. (some how, the 280x isn't even doing the frames I see with my 7970)
if the price has dropped, good, but you haven't posted a price for a 280x. and nvidia has never been the BEST for super OC. they make it harder than AMD does. always have. (that's even said in the reviews you posted) and cooling is subjective.

EDIT: I'm not starting a AMD/NVIDIA war here. please no one take it as that. From his links, I was incorrect about the speed. I remembered incorrectly, and I did mention price/performance, that's what i'm going for, disregarding the free game gimmicks


----------



## 271973

Has anyone ordered from green-sum recently, to the UK, and got their order via DHL? I ordered on Sunday and in early hours of the morning I got 'Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)' as the last update.

Long shot, but wanted to see how long after this sort of stage other users got their delivery. I already paid DHL's customs/fee request and want to know if I should hang about tomorrow/Saturday.


----------



## jc265

Hey all. Hopefully someone sees this and can help.. I received my QNIX 2710 yesterday (yay!) but am having issues..

Overclocked to 120hz = blue lines on bottom of screen and random overall garbage (as seen here )
Overclocked to 110hz = fine for a while then garbaged image as seen above
Overclocked to 96hz = see above^^

Once my screen goes to hell I have to restart the computer to get it to display again.
I also have another monitor hooked up (hanns.g hg281d) and when I unplugged my QNIX when it was looking like the picture above, my hanns.g displayed the same garbage.

Whats going on??


----------



## 271973

Graphics card issue maybe? What is the card? Are you overclocking it?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jc265*
> 
> Hey all. Hopefully someone sees this and can help.. I received my QNIX 2710 yesterday (yay!) but am having issues..
> 
> Overclocked to 120hz = blue lines on bottom of screen and random overall garbage (as seen here )
> Overclocked to 110hz = fine for a while then garbaged image as seen above
> Overclocked to 96hz = see above^^
> 
> Once my screen goes to hell I have to restart the computer to get it to display again.
> I also have another monitor hooked up (hanns.g hg281d) and when I unplugged my QNIX when it was looking like the picture above, my hanns.g displayed the same garbage.
> 
> Whats going on??


Turn off ULPS if you have it turned on. That is often the culprit of these messed up images.

What GPU are you using?


----------



## HTC_guy

I just got my hands on a QNIX qx2710 2560x1440. Note that its the one with DP, DVI and HDMI. I connected to a Laptop, so I am forced to use HDMI.

Im from South Africa, so we dont have access to Amazon/eBay all those kinds of site, so I was forced to source it locally. Still, it was cheaper than a main brand of screen, which would be about R9000, I paid R5000 for this screen.

I have read a lot of this thread, but I dont have the time really to read over 800 pages









I dont think my BLB is bad on my panel, but I am concerned that my blacks appear too dark. This screen came with OSD and brightness and contrast was on full. I put them down, but I have no idea what level they should be on









I noticed this last night when I moved my Steam window across from my QNIX to my laptop screen. On the Qnix it was looking a bit too dark and couldnt make out things, but on Laptop screen it was the perfect grey colour and looked good

Can someone help me please?


----------



## jc265

I'm using a 7970ghz ed at stock speed. Just disabled ULPS so hopefully I don't have that issue any more!


----------



## HTC_guy

Will loaded a ICC profile fix my black issues? Trying to figure out if these profiles adjust the bightness levels, or if I need to load a custom profile and still manually adjust my brightness etc etc


----------



## geogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jc265*
> 
> I'm using a 7970ghz ed at stock speed. Just disabled ULPS so hopefully I don't have that issue any more!


Well?


----------



## TinDaDragon

Mine should be coming today

SO EXCITED!!!!!!


----------



## Lodewykk

Hi

I'm considering ordering one of these monitors.

Question:
These monitors have "bypass-type" boards that do no reworking of the image. What does that mean for lower res (eg 1080p) content or 4:3 games? I have an Nvidia 600-series gpu. Does the monitor stretch what it gets, or does it just display it directly, centered with black borders? If the monitor sretches the content, is there a nice and easy way to force the GPU to output it in some letterboxed or centered unstreched format?

If I missed an earlier reply or should post this elsewhere, please let me know







I don't really know the search terms to use for this.

Cheers
Lodewykk


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodewykk*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I'm considering ordering one of these monitors.
> 
> Question:
> These monitors have "bypass-type" boards that do no reworking of the image. What does that mean for lower res (eg 1080p) content or 4:3 games? I have an Nvidia 600-series gpu. Does the monitor stretch what it gets, or does it just display it directly, centered with black borders? If the monitor sretches the content, is there a nice and easy way to force the GPU to output it in some letterboxed or centered unstreched format?
> 
> If I missed an earlier reply or should post this elsewhere, please let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really know the search terms to use for this.
> 
> Cheers
> Lodewykk


no scaling, means no stretching - "Does the monitor stretch what it gets, or does it just display it directly, centered with black borders?" is what it does. (unless you have GPU scaling or software scaling, but the MONITOR itself doesn't


----------



## jc265

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geogga*
> 
> Well?


Had to leave for work shortly after changing the setting. Will update later today if I still have the issue. Thanks!


----------



## Lodewykk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> no scaling, means no stretching - "Does the monitor stretch what it gets, or does it just display it directly, centered with black borders?" is what it does. (unless you have GPU scaling or software scaling, but the MONITOR itself doesn't


Thanks. This is pretty cool. I know other people hate it but I prefer pixel-for-pixel representation


----------



## 271973

So summary of my order:

- Ordered Sunday from green-sum, Qnix QX2710 - Matte - Pixel Perfect, shipping via DHL
- Asked for lower value/Gift labelling on package (need to check they did this)
- DHL text message after 48 hours requesting customs fee in advance: £28.79
- Shipping to Northern Ireland, UK
- Arrived Friday morning via white van man (not official DHL van)

- Arrived bubble wrapped, was pleased with condition, no knocks or bruises
- DID NOT INCLUDE UK power adapter for the plug (I didn't ask for one, but I understood they usually throw one in)

- Everything booted up fine, was quite a dark image until I used "QX2710 2013-04-20 D6500 1.8 HQ-MQ XYZLUT+MTX EDID-OFF 100Hz w_perceptual gamut mapping MAX-BRI" from Post#1
- Managed 120Hz, tested and seems fine but need better camera to test the blocks on the test page (no gaps, but I only get 4-5 blocks showing on this 4S camera)
- No dead pixels
- Back light bleed -


http://imgur.com/7nVGp79

 - this isn't noticeable in gaming or movies but I will open it up and try the tape fix at some point. Comparatively, how does this BLB seem? Good? Bad? Average?

For membership:


http://imgur.com/MGUlzBe


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> - Back light bleed -
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/7nVGp79
> 
> - this isn't noticeable in gaming or movies but I will open it up and try the tape fix at some point. Comparatively, how does this BLB seem? Good? Bad? Average?


As a general rule it's better than mine. Also, try shoving some cardboard in front or behind that spot, under the panel, before you try that tape fix, imo. It's so much easier to do and there is absolutely no risk. Took me like 15 minutes to fix blb much worse than that.


----------



## TinDaDragon

My monitor arrived today. Thank you shipping gods!

No dead pixels at all.

Will post pics later.

EDIT: PICS


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I borrowed a Spyder4Pro from one of my friends and I've created some color profiles for various refresh rates.
> 
> I've included 60, 96, 110, and 120Hz profiles,
> 
> QNIX Color Profiles.zip 10k .zip file
> 
> 
> These were calibrated at 120 cd/m2, which is 11-12 clicks from the bottom on my monitor


Started using the 120Hz profile and it's better now. The one I was previously using had better contrast, but the over-saturation got too annoying (subtle red tones would become super red).


----------



## mudzi

Does anyone here know if Mac OS X works with this monitor, was thinking of installing it on my PC


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mudzi*
> 
> Does anyone here know if Mac OS X works with this monitor, was thinking of installing it on my PC


It does, but I don't think you can overclock them. If it's a Hackintosh build and you have a graphics card with the DL-DVI output, you should be good. If you're using it straight off a Mac, you will need to get an active DL-DVI to mini-DP adapter (typically USB powered).


----------



## mudzi

Alright, thanks for the respond. Don´t really care about overclocking it since im only gonna use OSX for editing/photoshop


----------



## JTHMfreak

Just purchased: QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll LED 2560x1440 QHD PLS Panel by samsung Monitor DVI-D MATTEE Screen Perfect pixel
Thats the right one, yeah?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTHMfreak*
> 
> Just purchased: QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll LED 2560x1440 QHD PLS Panel by samsung Monitor DVI-D MATTEE Screen Perfect pixel
> Thats the right one, yeah?


The perfect pixel option is considered to be a marketing scam by some people, as there usually isn't a 0 dead pixel guarantee, but yep! that's the correct monitor


----------



## JTHMfreak

I agree its a marketing scam, since a certain amount of dead pix is considered pix perfect. But good to know I got the right one, now its a waiting game. Dang thing wont ship til monday


----------



## mboner1

Here's my 96hz profile if anyone wants it. It's still the best one going around









https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/tits31.icm


----------



## Feyla

Received my Qnix today, looking awesome so far. I can't notice any dead pixels or BLB, but I haven't done any tests yet.



Made one mistake of pressing in the round button next to the power LED thinking it was the power button... lol.



What is it and can I fix it?

Now to get to overclocking ^^

Edit: Also I didn't get any customs charge which I was quite surprised about. I'm in the UK and bought from dream seller who shipped via Fedex. Although maybe they're planning to send me an invoice for it.

Edit2: Tried overclocking with CRU, 96hz seems to work perfectly. Tried 110hz and I get blotchy images on the left hand side. Could anyone help with timings? I don't know what to change:


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodewykk*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I'm considering ordering one of these monitors.
> 
> Question:
> These monitors have "bypass-type" boards that do no reworking of the image. What does that mean for lower res (eg 1080p) content or 4:3 games? I have an Nvidia 600-series gpu. Does the monitor stretch what it gets, or does it just display it directly, centered with black borders? If the monitor sretches the content, is there a nice and easy way to force the GPU to output it in some letterboxed or centered unstreched format?
> 
> If I missed an earlier reply or should post this elsewhere, please let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't really know the search terms to use for this.
> 
> Cheers
> Lodewykk


As far as I know they don't support lower input signals than 2560x1440. To use lower resolutions you can set your GPU to scale it though. The video card actually seems to detect the absence of a scaler and won't even show the option of letting the monitor handle scaling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> The perfect pixel option is considered to be a marketing scam by some people, as there usually isn't a 0 dead pixel guarantee, but yep! that's the correct monitor


AccessoriesWhole actually seems to state no dead or defective pixel of any kind is ok on their Perfect Pixel version, unlike basically all other sellers. I even asked and confirmed it with them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTHMfreak*
> 
> I agree its a marketing scam, since a certain amount of dead pix is considered pix perfect. But good to know I got the right one, now its a waiting game. Dang thing wont ship til monday


For most sellers, yes. See above. Also, when combined with a SquareTrade monitor it apparently makes a difference because what is considered faulty depends on the warranty conditions set by the seller, even if the sellers wouldn't honor it in practice.

EDIT: Photo to prove ownership for the club:









Link in case Dropbox doesn't like hotlinking: https://www.dropbox.com/s/cjwm9kvei7h1bj9/IMG_20131102_134519.jpg


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> AccessoriesWhole actually seems to state no dead or defective pixel of any kind is ok on their Perfect Pixel version, unlike basically all other sellers. I even asked and confirmed it with them.
> For most sellers, yes. See above. Also, when combined with a SquareTrade monitor it apparently makes a difference because what is considered faulty depends on the warranty conditions set by the seller, even if the sellers wouldn't honor it in practice.


Yeah I ordered a pixel perfect Qnix QX2710 Matte from them and it came with 1 blue stuck pixel left of center. Don't bother except, as some others have said previously, it's coupled with a SquareTrade warranty which you can then use for claim since you have not received what you have paid for. But that could be tricky, not sure how everything works.


----------



## MeneerVent

Should I buy the Qnix from accessorieswhole or from green-sum? Green sum costs €10,- more (€260,-) but he offers perfect pixel guarantee. accessorieswhole told me he ships it like it costs 200 dollar and with FedEX. greensum didn't reply yet (I asked greensum 10 minutes ago).


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Received my Qnix today, looking awesome so far. I can't notice any dead pixels or BLB, but I haven't done any tests yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Made one mistake of pressing in the round button next to the power LED thinking it was the power button... lol.
> 
> 
> 
> What is it and can I fix it?
> 
> Now to get to overclocking ^^
> 
> Edit: Also I didn't get any customs charge which I was quite surprised about. I'm in the UK and bought from dream seller who shipped via Fedex. Although maybe they're planning to send me an invoice for it.
> 
> Edit2: Tried overclocking with CRU, 96hz seems to work perfectly. Tried 110hz and I get blotchy images on the left hand side. Could anyone help with timings? I don't know what to change:


where is the power button?


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> where is the power button?


Under the power icon, there are 4 physical buttons.

e: 5 infact


----------



## MarnArg

Nice monitor.


----------



## rusky1

Has anyone been able to run an overclock on their GPU along with an overclocked monitor yet? I'm limited to 60hz if I OC my gpu even by 1mhz.

Edit: Really hoping that this is just my 5850 not wanting to play nice with this particular monitor because I'm throwing in a pair of 290x's once the nonref models come out. Those will be overclocked and I'd like to run my monitor at 96hz for that.


----------



## yort

My pixel perfect Qnix from green-sum arrived earlier this week. It came with one stuck red pixel and minor back light bleed. I knew what pixel perfect probably meant so I'm satisfied with how the monitor turned out.

I have a couple of questions about running my crossfire 7850's at 96 Hz with a single bridge. The cards run Dota 2, BioShock Infinite, Skyrim and Dragon Age Origins overclocked at or above 96 fps without any problems. Most of the info in this thread has been about two connector cards not working with only one bridge. So far my one connector cards are running fine, but I am trying to find situations that make them fail.


What does single bridge failure look like? (game doesn't load, screen tearing, low fps)
I don't own many games, but the ones I have run without problems. When should my crossfire setup be failing?
I have to lower AA and some settings to get my fps above 96. My random nontechnical guess is that maybe the 7850's can't saturate the bridge at those settings, or maybe they will just work on a game by game basis.


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Should I buy the Qnix from accessorieswhole or from green-sum? Green sum costs €10,- more (€260,-) but he offers perfect pixel guarantee. accessorieswhole told me he ships it like it costs 200 dollar and with FedEX. greensum didn't reply yet (I asked greensum 10 minutes ago).


I would say go with accessorieswhole if going for the perfect pixel model because they are the only one who seems to cover every type of pixel fault in that guarantee. Green-sum doesn't cover stuck pixels at all I think (which are the most annoying ones).


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Has anyone been able to run an overclock on their GPU along with an overclocked monitor yet? I'm limited to 60hz if I OC my gpu even by 1mhz.
> 
> Edit: Really hoping that this is just my 5850 not wanting to play nice with this particular monitor because I'm throwing in a pair of 290x's once the nonref models come out. Those will be overclocked and I'd like to run my monitor at 96hz for that.


Mine seems to work fine at 96hz with an overclocked HD 7950. I think It'll be your card rather than the overclock.


----------



## ya mother

is there a big noticeable difference between 96hz and 120hz?


----------



## TinDaDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> is there a big noticeable difference between 96hz and 120hz?


Not really

60Hz -> 96Hz is the biggest jump


----------



## Coolio831

2nd Qnix arrived yesterday, no dead pixels, paid for pixel perfect, from what I can tell, no backlight bleed. Ordered from Green-Sum this time around, 1st order was from dream-seller. Overall extremely happy! Now I just need 1 more and that damn 780 lightning thats stuck at ontracs facility 3 MILES away.. On-trac should be not-on-trac.


----------



## Testier

Would the class C power plug it comes with be an issue? After considerations, I think that korean PLS/IPSs are cheap enough to do get the job and cannot be ignored. Afterall, I doubt I can see a serious difference comparing to my U2410. Also, what are the rough chances are getting a pixel perfect one from green sum? 50/50?

Also, it says 2-5 days of shipping, true?


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Would the class C power plug it comes with be an issue? After considerations, I think that korean PLS/IPSs are cheap enough to do get the job and cannot be ignored. Afterall, I doubt I can see a serious difference comparing to my U2410. Also, what are the rough chances are getting a pixel perfect one from green sum? 50/50?


No clue on the statistics, but so far i've been spending the extra on pixel perfect and so far i have 2 monitors with no dead/stuck pixels. I say spend the extra $20 and go for a pixel perfect one, even though I've seen reports of people getting a perfect pixel when they had ordered a non pixel perfect monitor.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> No clue on the statistics, but so far i've been spending the extra on pixel perfect and so far i have 2 monitors with no dead/stuck pixels. I say spend the extra $20 and go for a pixel perfect one, even though I've seen reports of people getting a perfect pixel when they had ordered a non pixel perfect monitor.


Yeah, i think I am going with this one. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Yeah, i think I am going with this one. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11


Thats the exact same one i ordered (Ad) I say pull the trigger!


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> Thats the exact same one i ordered (Ad) I say pull the trigger!


thanks. I know I bashed these monitors before, but just so cheap........ and not too bad for the price either.


----------



## timaishu

For anyone that remembers my posts from before. After returning perfect (aside from being unable to overclock) qnix to ispledmonitors.com, I ended up purchasing a "pixel perfect" model from overclockmonitor.net. That one was even worse, yes it could overclock, but it sat crooked and have several dead pixels and dust under the screen. After emailing back and for for close to three weeks, I finally secured a return(I didn't pay anything). Overclockmonitors.com made a damage claim with UPS, and whether they think it was actually damaged or if this is some sort of loop hole to get the monitor back for a lower or free price, I do not know. But once they received it, they told me their can either refund me, or ship me a replacement.

I can say that I am very happy with the customer service over at overclockmonitor.net. My only real gripe is their response times take a full day, and recently have taken upwards of several days. But they have been very helpful and understanding and I am glad I am getting the return I felt I deserved without me having to pay return shipping.

I will report back when I get my third and hopefully final monitor. (third times a charm right?)


----------



## THS89

Just overclocked my Qnix QX2710 to 96hz. It passes frameskip tests.

Are there any dangers to overclocking ?

96hz was my first attempt. Is it worth trying higher like 120 ?

EDIT: Just wanted to add, the average stable overclock for all monitors listed is 111Hz. The average for Qnix ones is also 111Hz. This number may be higher since others (like me) may not have attempted higher refresh rates than what we posted (like 96hz for me)


----------



## Coolio831

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> thanks. I know I bashed these monitors before, but just so cheap........ and not too bad for the price either.


I see now, I'm glad to see your starting to consider these, Yea they are nice monitors for the price, and they come with a bonus too, Their overclockable







What was your reason for the bashing?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THS89*
> 
> Just overclocked my Qnix QX2710 to 96hz. It passes frameskip tests.
> 
> Are there any dangers to overclocking ?
> 
> 96hz was my first attempt. Is it worth trying higher like 120 ?
> 
> EDIT: Just wanted to add, the average stable overclock for all monitors listed is 111Hz. The average for Qnix ones is also 111Hz. This number may be higher since others (like me) may not have attempted higher refresh rates than what we posted (like 96hz for me)


I've had my monitor overclocked to 120hz since day one, every once an awhile i'll set it to 60hz for the games that I can't push 96fps +. I've not had any issues or degradation.

Edit: Sometimes i'll just leave it at 60hz, Games like bf4 where you can select your refresh rate? I would set 120hz there, Only annoying thing is that bf3/4 wont stay at 96hz or 120 even though I've played a match minutes before and join another server to see my frames are capped at 60fps, i have to set 60hz and then apply, then switch to either 96 or 120hz again for it to display higher than 60fps.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolio831*
> 
> I see now, I'm glad to see your starting to consider these, Yea they are nice monitors for the price, and they come with a bonus too, Their overclockable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What was your reason for the bashing?


Lets see, W-LED, somewhat bad color quality compare to ultrasharps(you dont say), PLS = eIPS etc. I need money for a 780 TI or 780 ti BE so.... and still want some $ leftover.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1*
> 
> Has anyone been able to run an overclock on their GPU along with an overclocked monitor yet? I'm limited to 60hz if I OC my gpu even by 1mhz.
> 
> Edit: Really hoping that this is just my 5850 not wanting to play nice with this particular monitor because I'm throwing in a pair of 290x's once the nonref models come out. Those will be overclocked and I'd like to run my monitor at 96hz for that.


Most likely your 5850 since I can reach up to 1300mhz with my 7950 and it still runs 120Hz fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Lets see, W-LED, somewhat bad color quality compare to ultrasharps(you dont say), PLS = eIPS etc. I need money for a 780 TI or 780 ti BE so.... and still want some $ leftover.


That's a lot of money for a 780 TI. Why not double up on your 7970? You'll get the same/better performance for half the price.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> Lets see, W-LED, somewhat bad color quality compare to ultrasharps(you dont say), PLS = eIPS etc. I need money for a 780 TI or 780 ti BE so.... and still want some $ leftover.


PLS ~= AH-IPS, not eIPS. PLS is clearly superior to eIPS. The panels are a full 8bit panels, and almost all if not all eIPS panels are 6bit + FRC panels. Ultrasharps do have better uniformity and general colour calibration, but that's not an issue with the technology, but rather something that comes with factory setup.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> That's a lot of money for a 780 TI. Why not double up on your 7970? You'll get the same/better performance for half the price.


already sold it. On my friend's 7950 right now. I prefer single card usually.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> PLS ~= AH-IPS, not eIPS. PLS is clearly superior to eIPS. The panels are a full 8bit panels, and almost all if not all eIPS panels are 6bit + FRC panels. Ultrasharps do have better uniformity and general colour calibration, but that's not an issue with the technology, but rather something that comes with factory setup.


I really wish RGB LED's price becomes reasonable.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> I really wish RGB LED's price becomes reasonable.


So do I.

But to be honest, RGB LED monitors don't offer anything over WLED monitors. They offer a larger colour gamut to be sure, but seeing as how WLED monitors already cover the sRGB gamut (99%+ of the internet and consumer content) the extra gamut is actively detrimental :-/


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> So do I.
> 
> But to be honest, RGB LED monitors don't offer anything over WLED monitors. They offer a larger colour gamut to be sure, but seeing as how WLED monitors already cover the sRGB gamut (99%+ of the internet and consumer content) the extra gamut is actively detrimental :-/


What also would be nice is ATW polarizers. Also, pulled the trigger on it.


----------



## Velathawen

Glad to finally join the club! I was pretty nervous about the dead pixels and BLB and it seems like I've managed to get by problem free.

P1000807.JPG 486k .JPG file


----------



## Rawnzii

..


----------



## ya mother

Mines so close i can smell it.....it's at the fedex depot 6 mile away.....wont get it till tomorrow with it being a sunday tho


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Here's my 96hz profile if anyone wants it. It's still the best one going around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/tits31.icm


care to post more info on it?(what calibrator, what brightness level, is your qnix matte or glossy?)


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawnzii*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger on this monitor but before I do I want to make sure this is the right one if I want to overclock it. Also should I buy from Green-Sum or accessorieswhole? I read all the info on page 1 I just want to make sure I'm ordering the correct monitor from a good seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27in-PC-Monitor-/111078161308?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dcc63b9c&_uhb=1


This is the correct one and yes accessorieswhole is one of the best sellers though getting a monitor with or without problems is a lottery.


----------



## MeneerVent

Bought the Pixel Perfect version from greensum for €260,-. Paypal charged €275,- goddamnit. Anyone knows how long it will take to be delivered to the Netherlands?


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> *SNIP*
> 
> Edit2: Tried overclocking with CRU, 96hz seems to work perfectly. Tried 110hz and I get blotchy images on the left hand side. Could anyone help with timings? I don't know what to change:


Is anyone able to help with my timing please? Eager to try 110/120hz but don't know how I should adjust these.

I have tried changing the Front Porch vertical to 2 lines and Sync width vertical to 2 lines, as I saw this in a previous post by Spartan I believe. But this didn't help me I still have the same problem.


----------



## Cutekiller

Hi guys!

I'm looking for a 1440p screen to run my new NVIDIA GTX 780 card!

How does the QNIX in FPS games? Is it fast enough?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cutekiller*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I'm looking for a 1440p screen to run my new NVIDIA GTX 780 card!
> 
> How does the QNIX in FPS games? Is it fast enough?


It's obviously not as fast as something like a 144Hz TN panel, so for *true* competitive ranked gaming, it isn't the best option. But compared to other IPS/PLS panels on the market, its quite good due to the lack of OSD.

Running at 120Hz also lessens the need for VSync, which also helps with input lag


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Bought the Pixel Perfect version from greensum for €260,-. Paypal charged €275,- goddamnit. Anyone knows how long it will take to be delivered to the Netherlands?


I ordered mine on a Thursday and got it the following Tuesday (I'm a Brit living in The Hague).


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Is anyone able to help with my timing please? Eager to try 110/120hz but don't know how I should adjust these.
> 
> I have tried changing the Front Porch vertical to 2 lines and Sync width vertical to 2 lines, as I saw this in a previous post by Spartan I believe. But this didn't help me I still have the same problem.


What graphics card are you using? It may be either your monitor/DL-DVI cable/graphics card that is the problem.

Below are jerrolds' settings that work very well for me.


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> What graphics card are you using? It may be either your monitor/DL-DVI cable/graphics card that is the problem.
> 
> Below are jerrolds' settings that work very well for me.


I have a HD 7950 and using the cable which came with the monitor. I'll give those settings a go thanks.

Edit: Just tried those settings with 110/120hz. 110hz seems to be working! But with 120hz I get the blotchy images on the left side again. Is it worth adjusting anything else to try for 120hz? Or does it probably mean that 110hz is my monitors limit?

Thanks though, happy I can get 110hz!


----------



## MeneerVent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> I ordered mine on a Thursday and got it the following Tuesday (I'm a Brit living in The Hague).


That's pretty fast, I am used to wait min.3 weeks for things to arrive from China. Howmuch did you need to pay on taxes and with what company does he ship?


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cutekiller*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I'm looking for a 1440p screen to run my new NVIDIA GTX 780 card!
> 
> How does the QNIX in FPS games? Is it fast enough?


If you tell us what monitor you have now we might be able to tell you how the Qnix would compare to that in terms of gaming.

I play Battlefield 4 on mine and I really like the experience. Granted, I used to play games on my Dell 2007WFP IPS.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

hey guys im about to pull the trigger! is this a good deal? does it matter that its not pixelperfect?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140934439651


----------



## Captivate

So I've been thinking and I'm interested in this monitor. I'm noticing I don't use my 3x1080p Surround setup all that much; bezels are annoying, and my far right monitor is never ever used except when I'm gaming. I would sell two of the three monitors and use the money to purchase one of these bad boys. However, is it guaranteed that they will run 120Hz? Or at least 96Hz? My current monitors are 120Hz and I'm an absolute sucker for refresh rates, I can easily see 60Hz and I can not stand it anymore..... What to do


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> So I've been thinking and I'm interested in this monitor. I'm noticing I don't use my 3x1080p Surround setup all that much; bezels are annoying, and my far right monitor is never ever used except when I'm gaming. I would sell two of the three monitors and use the money to purchase one of these bad boys. However, is it guaranteed that they will run 120Hz? Or at least 96Hz? My current monitors are 120Hz and I'm an absolute sucker for refresh rates, I can easily see 60Hz and I can not stand it anymore..... What to do


I was at a similar boat, I had 3x IPS monitors in Portrait Eyefinity and I ended up keeping one as a secondary portrait monitor in conjunction with my Qnix. Although my screen estate and resolution shrunk, I am much happier with the larger screen, especially when it's at 120Hz.

There is no guarantee for any overclock, but 90% who try will get 96Hz and anything past that is pretty much lottery. Despite that, many people have been able to get 110~120Hz easily.

The biggest change for you will probably be the better colors, but you may not care for them. I'm not sure if the higher response times (6~8ms vs your 1ms) would change things, but from what I've read, it isn't noticeable.

Btw, really cool build, interested to see how that setup fairs when it's completed.


----------



## Captivate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I was at a similar boat, I had 3x IPS monitors in Portrait Eyefinity and I ended up keeping one as a secondary portrait monitor in conjunction with my Qnix. Although my screen estate and resolution shrunk, I am much happier with the larger screen, especially when it's at 120Hz.
> 
> There is no guarantee for any overclock, but 90% who try will get 96Hz and anything past that is pretty much lottery. Despite that, many people have been able to get 110~120Hz easily.
> 
> The biggest change for you will probably be the better colors, but you may not care for them. I'm not sure if the higher response times (6~8ms vs your 1ms) would change things, but from what I've read, it isn't noticeable.
> 
> Btw, really cool build, interested to see how that setup fairs when it's completed.


Yeah, selling two of my gaming monitors and buying the QNIX actually ends up saving money. TriSLI for 1440p is complete overkill though. Some games still actually struggle at 3x1080p.
And hopefully at the tail end of this week I should be getting the rig together!


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> That's pretty fast, I am used to wait min.3 weeks for things to arrive from China. Howmuch did you need to pay on taxes and with what company does he ship?


I bought mine from a different ebay seller (bigclothcraft), they used DHL and I paid €57 total for tax and fees - make sure you have cash though, the delivery person that came was an independant courier and I could not pin....it is amazingly fast as you said compared to usual buying from China/Hong Kong!


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, I got my qnix 2710 running at 96hz, but all games i've tried seem to limit the FPS to 60. (for example batman arkham origins and BF4. BF4) BF4 even reports a max resolution of 2560 x 1440 @ 59.96.

Does anyone know why that is? OC'ing it is kinda the point here to get the higher refresh rates in games.

EDIT: Nvidia control panel shows 120 HZ, UFO frame skipping test shows 120 hz, no frame skipping.

So what's with the games? I don't get it


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> I have a HD 7950 and using the cable which came with the monitor. I'll give those settings a go thanks.
> 
> Edit: Just tried those settings with 110/120hz. 110hz seems to be working! But with 120hz I get the blotchy images on the left side again. Is it worth adjusting anything else to try for 120hz? Or does it probably mean that 110hz is my monitors limit?
> 
> Thanks though, happy I can get 110hz!


I actually got 120hz for the first time with these settings!
a shame it doesn't work within bf4 :/


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> care to post more info on it?(what calibrator, what brightness level, is your qnix matte or glossy?)


Yep, its calibrated with a spyder elite, did about 100 calibrations on all different brightness settings and refresh rates. I went with max brightness for gaming as you.are creating some black crush by over clocking. Max brightness on mine after the over clock and calibration was 240 CD/m. My screen is glossy , battlefield 4 seriously looks crazy good on this monitor.

I know some people will say 240cdm is too bright but for online gaming I wouldn't want to go any lower than 200cdm, its too hard to spot people. 120cdm is generally recommended for color critical.work like prints, not gaming.


----------



## MeneerVent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey guys, I got my qnix 2710 running at 96hz, but all games i've tried seem to limit the FPS to 60. (for example batman arkham origins and BF4. BF4) BF4 even reports a max resolution of 2560 x 1440 @ 59.96.
> 
> Does anyone know why that is? OC'ing it is kinda the point here to get the higher refresh rates in games.
> 
> EDIT: Nvidia control panel shows 120 HZ, UFO frame skipping test shows 120 hz, no frame skipping.
> 
> So what's with the games? I don't get it


Try putting Vsync off, normally it is on on default.


----------



## latprod

Apparenty that helped







such a ridiculously easy solution, thanks man


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by ****oatse*
> 
> care to post more info on it?(what calibrator, what brightness level, is your qnix matte or glossy?)
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, its calibrated with a spyder elite, did about 100 calibrations on all different brightness settings and refresh rates. I went with max brightness for gaming as you.are creating some black crush by over clocking. Max brightness on mine after the over clock and calibration was 240 CD/m. My screen is glossy , battlefield 4 seriously looks crazy good on this monitor.
> 
> I know some people will say 240cdm is too bright but for online gaming I wouldn't want to go any lower than 200cdm, its too hard to spot people. 120cdm is generally recommended for color critical.work like prints, not gaming.
Click to expand...

I bet I can't talk you into a 120hz version, can i?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Ok guys, so greensum has a glossy nonpixel perfect for $300 and then theres a matte pixelpefect from storewithstory for 319 but will prob drop to around 300 also... wich one would u choose? Finish not mattering


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Ok guys, so greensum has a glossy nonpixel perfect for $300 and then theres a matte pixelpefect from storewithstory for 319 but will prob drop to around 300 also... wich one would u choose? Finish not mattering


I

I got a non pixel perfect from accessorieswhole, not a single dead/stuck pixel, it seems to be more a marketing thing than anything else.
I prefer glossy screens so it's a no brainer for me, but if u feel safer paying a little xtra then go for it. 19 $ isn't exactly a whole lot. I'd also take the store rating into consideration, and go with greensum.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Have you heard of greensum? Wod u buy from him?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Have you heard of greensum? Wod u buy from him?


I bought from him, everything is fine


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Have you heard of greensum? Wod u buy from him?


I think he is one of the more reputable sellers with great feedback, so go for it.
apart from that, i am so happy i took a chance on this monitor, it's amazing


----------



## skuko

my qnix from red-cap is in customs, hope they dont hold it for long.


----------



## Intrexion

I received my Qnix from "sellerwithstory" today. Had to pay 55 euros customs fee at delivery. I ordered wednesday, it was shipped thursday and I received it monday.

I'm very happy with the monitor, I haven't found and dead/stuck pixels yet and there is no blb at all!


----------



## ya mother

Got mine today....one dead pixel and cant see any light bleed?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Will i have to pay customs fee with shipping to usa?


----------



## ya mother

Well i got my Qnix Tempered Glass 27" LPS 2560x1440 panel today.....i messed around with the brightness contrast and colour for around 2 minutes and quickly overclocked it to 96hz just to see how easy it was.....then i couldnt help myself and loaded up BF4.

It's like going from watching standard tv to HD.....it's absolutely outstanding. My old monitor is the samsung 27" s27a950 3D 120hz/1920x1080 which cost £700 that i'm comparing it with btw.

I got one dead pixel which is a bit of a bummer but i had one on me samsung and it didnt bother me.

So for £212.91 delivered ( NO CUSTOMS CHARGE YET ) it's a Hazro without the 60hz bollocks for less than half the price....and i got the tempered glass one but with the guarantee it's not gonna fall off like the Hazro as its fitted inside not the outside.

Packaging was amazing as well....box within a box and extra cardboard covering the screen inside the main box and polystyrene etc etc.

For the price i can't recommend these enough, i mean for £212.00 what you going to get for that?


----------



## mercaptan

Purchased a Matte QNIX 2710 from Storewithstory for $285.00 total (accepted offer, was retailing at $300 at that point). Should arrive in a few hours- order was placed on the evening of 10/30, so that makes 3 business days to get from South Korea to here.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Will i have to pay customs fee with shipping to usa?


Good question, I really don't know. Although I purchased mine through Amazon, so I'm hoping everything was included in my price. My Qnix shipped out today.


----------



## mercaptan

Ok, received the monitor:

Standard packaging, wrapped in a nice layer of white open-cell foam. White box had a large vertical crease on both sides - pulled it out, no issues with the monitor.

- One slightly gray pixel on white screen, not distracting at all.
- OC'ed at 96HZ easily (verified no skipping), haven't tried past that, probably won't
- Stereo cable is worthlessly short
- Color seemed a bit 'warm' with default profile - used one of the ICC profiles from the front page (another Matte, 96hz OC)
- What the heck is this 'button' next to the power light?
- Much better response time than the HDTV I used as a monitor previously - did not have a gaming mode, and had substantial input lag.
- Well worth $285. I'm very happy.

Seller was "storewithstory." Seemed relatively unknown, seems to be an OK seller - though I don't think I will need to return this monitor so I cannot attest to customer service.


----------



## gbmaztah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercaptan*
> 
> Ok, received the monitor:
> 
> Standard packaging, wrapped in a nice layer of white open-cell foam. White box had a large vertical crease on both sides - pulled it out, no issues with the monitor.
> 
> - One slightly gray pixel on white screen, not distracting at all.
> - OC'ed at 96HZ easily (verified no skipping), haven't tried past that, probably won't
> - Stereo cable is worthlessly short
> - Color seemed a bit 'warm' with default profile - used one of the ICC profiles from the front page (another Matte, 96hz OC)
> - What the heck is this 'button' next to the power light?
> - Much better response time than the HDTV I used as a monitor previously - did not have a gaming mode, and had substantial input lag.
> - Well worth $285. I'm very happy.
> 
> Seller was "storewithstory." Seemed relatively unknown, seems to be an OK seller - though I don't think I will need to return this monitor so I cannot attest to customer service.


Thanks for the info. I purchased the same monitor from "storewithstory" yesterday. How long did it take for them to provide you with tracking information? Also if you don't mind me asking, where do you live?


----------



## stolemyowncar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercaptan*
> 
> Ok, received the monitor:
> 
> Standard packaging, wrapped in a nice layer of white open-cell foam. White box had a large vertical crease on both sides - pulled it out, no issues with the monitor.
> 
> - One slightly gray pixel on white screen, not distracting at all.
> - OC'ed at 96HZ easily (verified no skipping), haven't tried past that, probably won't
> - Stereo cable is worthlessly short
> - Color seemed a bit 'warm' with default profile - used one of the ICC profiles from the front page (another Matte, 96hz OC)
> - What the heck is this 'button' next to the power light?
> - Much better response time than the HDTV I used as a monitor previously - did not have a gaming mode, and had substantial input lag.
> - Well worth $285. I'm very happy.
> 
> Seller was "storewithstory." Seemed relatively unknown, seems to be an OK seller - though I don't think I will need to return this monitor so I cannot attest to customer service.


I don't think there is any audio out on these by default. Just an FYI. The cable is not only worthlessly short, it doesn't do anything. I had to open this up to fix the backlight bleed on it and there is a slot near those buttons that's basically just not hooked up to anything.


----------



## mercaptan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gbmaztah*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I purchased the same monitor from "storewithstory" yesterday. How long did it take for them to provide you with tracking information? Also if you don't mind me asking, where do you live?


No worries.

- Purchased evening of 10/30
- Received tracking info morning of 11/1
- Received on afternoon of 11/4

I live on the US west coast.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

man im going crazy....I have the glossy qnix from greensum for 301 in my cart... I just cant do it lol. I wish I had more balls LOL. I wish i could get the pixel perfect option for this one.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> man im going crazy....I have the glossy qnix from greensum for 301 in my cart... I just cant do it lol. I wish I had more balls LOL. I wish i could get the pixel perfect option for this one.


I know that feel. Mine has been sitting in my cart for about a month.


----------



## Captivate

I really want to buy this monitor, but a few things are holding me back.

- I REALLY want 120hz. Anything less is just a no-no. I'm reading 90+% can do at least 96Hz, which might be enough, I don't know, but I'm a sucker for refreshrates.
- It seems like many people get bad luck of the draw and get BLB or Dead Pixels =[
- Going from surround to 1440p kind of makes my 3-way SLI setup a complete and utter overkill.
- Not being able to surround anymore! Sometimes I do like it.


----------



## DiceAir

So i went from 2x GTX570 SLI to 2x AMD radeon R9-280x. Anything you guys can suggest me I should do to get the most out of my screen and crossfire setup. I already removed Nvidia drivers etc etc. Anything i can do to force the refresh rate for games etc etc. Thanks in advance


----------



## rcoolb2002

Wooo mine is here. Super fast. Man is it pretty. Makes my old thing look tiny!

Hope I dont kill my 7950 with it.


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> Wooo mine is here. Super fast. Man is it pretty. Makes my old thing look tiny!
> 
> Hope I dont kill my 7950 with it.


My single 7950 works well with it.







Currently playing Crysis 2 at max settings and runs very smooth, no AA though, not needed at this res.


----------



## ya mother

After Looking at what i thought was 1 dead pixel, it seems to be a clump of 7 dead pixels together, so i used a dead pixel checker and found 4 more.......11 in total.....not happy.


----------



## ya mother

The wife found another 2 (she has better eyes than me lol) so thats 13 dead pixels.......it wouldnt be too bad but the group of 7 together looks horrendous.


----------



## Moragg

Don't worry, that's more than any seller allows, so you should be able to get a full refund, or replacement at the very least. Just be sure to hound the seller and don't agree to any partial refunds.


----------



## ya mother

Just been in touch with acessorisewhole and they got back to me straight away.....they want pictures which i had already took.....just doing the school run then post them off to them.


----------



## ya mother

Here is the pics i sent.....

I count 7 here.....



6



1


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> man im going crazy....I have the glossy qnix from greensum for 301 in my cart... I just cant do it lol. I wish I had more balls LOL. I wish i could get the pixel perfect option for this one.


dude, do it. I was in the same boat, just went for it and couldn't be happier.


----------



## rcoolb2002

So I just tried to play Tomb Raider on Ultra with tressfx @ 1440 on my [email protected]

Solid 21FPS


----------



## gonsa

What's the best way to fix the plastic bending frame at the middle of the screen?


----------



## Broadband

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I figured he was talking of manually adjusting it on the screen OSD. My question was: is teh minimum brightness zero (that's what i get when I go all the way left)? If so, even 22 clicks righward aren't enough, still too dark. Weird that 12 are enough for you.
> 
> The above quote was copied and pasted from the first page of this thread where I also got the profile file.
> 
> How do I tell Cat control center to not touch anything?
> Edit: as for the last question. When applying a profile through win them CCC seems to deactivate its own color adjustments.
> 
> Thanks again


Hey guys can you please clarify this? I fear I might be doing something totaally off.

On my screen both 11 and 22 clicks from the lowest brigthness look way too dark, to the point Dota2 is nearly black. It's now set to about 85 (not 85 clicks, just a bright value of 85).

Plus: I tried to oc my screen to 96. As from the first page,

- I first patched my ATI card (got an ok message back),
- reboot - still good
- created the custom resolution with 96Hz refresh rate by first cloning the default one and then changing the Hz.
- When I reboot, I see the win8 loading screen and all but when the pc is about to load the desktop (you know, where you are supposed to enter the credentials) the screen goes black.

What's weird to me is that it goes black even before I tell CCC to use the newly created frequency, because as I said before I don't even make it to the win screen in order to open cc.
To make my screen show something again I've got to reset all to default.

Might this be related with my screen being a multiinput model?

Thanks again and sorry for the wall of text.


----------



## HTC_guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> Hey guys can you please clarify this? I fear I might be doing something totaally off.
> 
> On my screen both 11 and 22 clicks from the lowest brigthness look way too dark, to the point Dota2 is nearly black. It's now set to about 85 (not 85 clicks, just a bright value of 85).
> 
> Plus: I tried to oc my screen to 96. As from the first page,
> 
> - I first patched my ATI card (got an ok message back),
> - reboot - still good
> - created the custom resolution with 96Hz refresh rate by first cloning the default one and then changing the Hz.
> - When I reboot, I see the win8 loading screen and all but when the pc is about to load the desktop (you know, where you are supposed to enter the credentials) the screen goes black.
> 
> What's weird to me is that it goes black even before I tell CCC to use the newly created frequency, because as I said before I don't even make it to the win screen in order to open cc.
> To make my screen show something again I've got to reset all to default.
> 
> Might this be related with my screen being a multiinput model?
> 
> Thanks again and sorry for the wall of text.


well its nice to see someone else with the same issue lol









I also have the multi-input model, and all I have seen online is people talking about "12-clicks from bottom" or "28-clicks from top"

Unfortunately this is for the majority of peeps who have the single input screen. Ours (multi with OSD) is definitely different.

Is there someone here who can measure the brightness and post details for us who dont have fancy equipment?









@Broadband, what brightness and contrast level are you on?


----------



## Broadband

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HTC_guy*
> 
> well its nice to see someone else with the same issue lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have the multi-input model, and all I have seen online is people talking about "12-clicks from bottom" or "28-clicks from top"
> 
> Unfortunately this is for the majority of peeps who have the single input screen. Ours (multi with OSD) is definitely different.
> 
> Is there someone here who can measure the brightness and post details for us who dont have fancy equipment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Broadband, what brightness and contrast level are you on?


Hey mate,

i'll let you know when I get home later today.

did you have the same issue with oc'ing your screen?


----------



## HTC_guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> Hey mate,
> 
> i'll let you know when I get home later today.
> 
> did you have the same issue with oc'ing your screen?


dude I will be totally honest here, I am not OC'ing yet. I know that running 2560x1440 at 60Hz on HDMI is already pushing the limits.

At this stage, I just want to get the screen looking as good as possible. This includes any mods I might have to do.

Im looking all over the web for the best tape/cardboard mods on Youtube. I had the screen in pieces last night, as I removed the plastic base stand. I have mounted the screen on the wall.

Im going to take it apart again to see how straight the metal frame is. Gonna try straighten it as much as possible. Then add electical tape as well.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Just been in touch with acessorisewhole and they got back to me straight away.....they want pictures which i had already took.....just doing the school run then post them off to them.


Did u get the pixel plus with this monitor? Man im sory for you... that blows.


----------



## Broadband

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HTC_guy*
> 
> dude I will be totally honest here, I am not OC'ing yet. I know that running 2560x1440 at 60Hz on HDMI is already pushing the limits.
> 
> At this stage, I just want to get the screen looking as good as possible. This includes any mods I might have to do.
> 
> Im looking all over the web for the best tape/cardboard mods on Youtube. I had the screen in pieces last night, as I removed the plastic base stand. I have mounted the screen on the wall.
> 
> Im going to take it apart again to see how straight the metal frame is. Gonna try straighten it as much as possible. Then add electical tape as well.


How comes you have to go through that process? Is there anything clearly wrong with the image you get?


----------



## HTC_guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> How comes you have to go through that process? Is there anything clearly wrong with the image you get?


Im not happy with the blacks that I get on Heroes of Newerth. I have some BLB on the bottom of the panel in the corners, so I am going to try and reduce that BLB as much as possible!!

The blacks on this screen arent really.... BLACK!! They more lightish grey which I find REALLY annoying. Will do what I can to fix it.

Obviously I cant do anything about the IPS glow. That comes with the technology.

Also why I am interested in your OSD settings for brightness and contrast.


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, I have, for some reason, just had some image retention, burn-in, or whatever u wanna call it. any ideas how to fix it?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HTC_guy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> How comes you have to go through that process? Is there anything clearly wrong with the image you get?
> 
> 
> 
> Im not happy with the blacks that I get on Heroes of Newerth. I have some BLB on the bottom of the panel in the corners, so I am going to try and reduce that BLB as much as possible!!
> 
> The blacks on this screen arent really.... BLACK!! They more lightish grey which I find REALLY annoying. Will do what I can to fix it.
> 
> Obviously I cant do anything about the IPS glow. That comes with the technology.
> 
> Also why I am interested in your OSD settings for brightness and contrast.
Click to expand...

I am trying to sort out what you consider black, since everyone agrees, the blacks on these PLS screens (NOT IPS which you seem to indicate)
is the blackest you can get. And if you are not getting your blacks in one game, then it's that game's colors that are off. try another calibrated ICS.

the technology that is refered to as IPS glow, isn't just IPS/PLS screens, it's every LCD, usually LED back-lighted. and is known as Backlight bleed.

As far as I know, 99% of the people with calibration tools and these monitors, didn't buy the multi-inputs for a reason. (i know I didn't, but I wanted 96/120hz)

TL;DR : the screens blacks are about as black as the come, if not, fix your software's colors.


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> The technology that is refered to as IPS glow, isn't just IPS/PLS screens, it's every LCD, usually LED back-lighted. and is known as Backlight bleed.


No, that is incorrect. IPS glow and backlight bleeding is not the same thing, even though might look like it sometimes. IPS glow is usually yellow or slightly purple.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> The technology that is refered to as IPS glow, isn't just IPS/PLS screens, it's every LCD, usually LED back-lighted. and is known as Backlight bleed.
> 
> 
> 
> No, that is incorrect. IPS glow and backlight bleeding is not the same thing, even though might look like it sometimes. IPS glow is usually yellow or slightly purple.
Click to expand...

i stand corrected, I looked into and was about to edit, but at the same time, IPS glow is not only on IPS screens, so the term is still incorrect


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Just been in touch with acessorisewhole and they got back to me straight away.....they want pictures which i had already took.....just doing the school run then post them off to them.


You should ask accessorisewhole what the heck was the guy in their company that checks monitors doing. I had similar experience with aw before. They promised me to pay extra caution to blb but sent me a monitor with crazy crazy crazy blb. I posted blb photos on overclock, and got an angry email from them saying they would deny the return if i keep posting photo on forums, because what i did "hurt" their business. What the heck? They cannot even stand up on their words. Stay away from i were you.

by the way they will probably send you an email threaten to deny return/exchange since you posted photos and "hurt" their business.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> You should ask accessorisewhole what the heck was the guy in their company that checks monitors doing. I had similar experience with aw before. They promised me to pay extra caution to blb but sent me a monitor with crazy crazy crazy blb. I posted blb photos on overclock, and got an angry email from them saying they would deny the return if i keep posting photo on forums, because what i did "hurt" their business. What the heck? They cannot even stand up on your words. Stay away from i were you.
> 
> by the way they will probably send you an email threaten to deny return/exchange since you posted photos and "hurt" their business.


sounds like they are too close to north korea


----------



## Broadband

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> i stand corrected, I looked into and was about to edit, but at the same time, IPS glow is not only on IPS screens, so the term is still incorrect


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I am trying to sort out what you consider black, since everyone agrees, the blacks on these PLS screens (NOT IPS which you seem to indicate)
> is the blackest you can get. And if you are not getting your blacks in one game, then it's that game's colors that are off. try another calibrated ICS.
> 
> the technology that is refered to as IPS glow, isn't just IPS/PLS screens, it's every LCD, usually LED back-lighted. and is known as Backlight bleed.
> 
> As far as I know, 99% of the people with calibration tools and these monitors, didn't buy the multi-inputs for a reason. (i know I didn't, but I wanted 96/120hz)
> 
> TL;DR : the screens blacks are about as black as the come, if not, fix your software's colors.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> i stand corrected, I looked into and was about to edit, but at the same time, IPS glow is not only on IPS screens, so the term is still incorrect


So you are confirming multi input screens have no chance to OC'?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> i stand corrected, I looked into and was about to edit, but at the same time, IPS glow is not only on IPS screens, so the term is still incorrect
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I am trying to sort out what you consider black, since everyone agrees, the blacks on these PLS screens (NOT IPS which you seem to indicate)
> is the blackest you can get. And if you are not getting your blacks in one game, then it's that game's colors that are off. try another calibrated ICS.
> 
> the technology that is refered to as IPS glow, isn't just IPS/PLS screens, it's every LCD, usually LED back-lighted. and is known as Backlight bleed.
> 
> As far as I know, 99% of the people with calibration tools and these monitors, didn't buy the multi-inputs for a reason. (i know I didn't, but I wanted 96/120hz)
> 
> TL;DR : the screens blacks are about as black as the come, if not, fix your software's colors.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> i stand corrected, I looked into and was about to edit, but at the same time, IPS glow is not only on IPS screens, so the term is still incorrect
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So you are confirming multi input screens have no chance to OC'?
Click to expand...

we havn't seen it proven that they can. if they can it will only be with DVI/DP.


----------



## jincuteguy

So are these Korean IPS monitors worth it? I want to get one and I will prob get the Qnix Evolution 2 (one with PLS). But Im still not sure if it still worth it though. Or get the Asus PB278Q (around $550).


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So are these Korean IPS monitors worth it? I want to get one and I will prob get the Qnix Evolution 2 (one with PLS). But Im still not sure if it still worth it though. Or get the Asus PB278Q (around $550).


I think they are worth every penny, i'm on #4 with zero/zero (BLB/DEAD pixels) only own one myself... but ordering for friends and such.


----------



## Broadband

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> we havn't seen it proven that they can. if they can it will only be with DVI/DP.


well that's the port i Was trying to OC over and didn't work either. I guess it's just a no.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I think they are worth every penny, i'm on #4 with zero/zero (BLB/DEAD pixels) only own one myself... but ordering for friends and such.


Which one u're talking about? The Qnix Evolution 2?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I think they are worth every penny, i'm on #4 with zero/zero (BLB/DEAD pixels) only own one myself... but ordering for friends and such.
> 
> 
> 
> Which one u're talking about? The Qnix Evolution 2?
Click to expand...

in my case, the X-star, but they are the same.


----------



## Broadband

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HTC_guy*
> 
> well its nice to see someone else with the same issue lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have the multi-input model, and all I have seen online is people talking about "12-clicks from bottom" or "28-clicks from top"
> 
> Unfortunately this is for the majority of peeps who have the single input screen. Ours (multi with OSD) is definitely different.
> 
> Is there someone here who can measure the brightness and post details for us who dont have fancy equipment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Broadband, what brightness and contrast level are you on?


brightness 87
contrast 100

as profile I am using that on this thread's first page (the one suited for 60 Hz)

Is it looking good? Hard to tell, I don't have anything to compare it with.

I've even tried to calibrate witha proper HW tool, more than once. Didn't look good at all, way too yellow.

Hopefully we'll fins sombody else with the same multi input screen


----------



## JTHMfreak

Cool, the seller I went through made it to where i don't have to pay any duty fees to UPS, I get my monitor tomorrow, shipped yesterday.


----------



## Kimpan1239

So I bought from Green-Sun and he didnt undervalue the item even tho I asked him and he said he would... I had to pay another 100 USD for it.

I got it and it's "almost" stable at 120hz after a few hours there are some lines in the screen. Im just running it at 96hz to be safe.

Havent figured out the settings for the screen yet, but I got a LG IPS 27" and it's alot brighter. Suppose I gotta find a suitable color profile >.<
Is there a list with like loads of diffrent profiles for this screen expect the 4 on the start? Because I dont like any of them and I dont really know how to fix it myself yet


----------



## mboner1

So has anyone tried out my 96hz icc profile yet??


----------



## mboner1

Double post.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> So has anyone tried out my 96hz icc profile yet??


waiting for your 120hz profile


----------



## hcopp

A couple of questions after reading through this. Will I have to pay any customs fees from the US? I was under the impression there wouldn't be any. Also I have a UPS tracking # and an EMS tracking number, neither of which show any information whatsoever, its been a bit over 24 hours, and it said it would hopefully be delivered tomorrow. I know that would be absolutely best case scenario, but to be honest I'm now kind of concerned about the customs / duty thing. Any advice / info is appreciated.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

ya im still kinda confused on this also.. I live in minnesota. can any of you guys that live in the us speak up? did you have to pay customs fee?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> waiting for your 120hz profile


Sorry mate, had some problems with our power shutting off , something tripping the switch, long story short i don't have the time to mess around with another profile atm. Soz.


----------



## JTHMfreak

I am not paying a customs fee, called UPS to ask since I saw my monitor was at the hub, apparently my seller took care of that for me.
the weird part is the tracking now shows my monitor in Alaska, ***?


----------



## TehNomad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTHMfreak*
> 
> I am not paying a customs fee, called UPS to ask since I saw my monitor was at the hub, apparently my seller took care of that for me.
> the weird part is the tracking now shows my monitor in Alaska, ***?


I bought an X-Star off Ebay (dream-seller) on 11/1 and my FedEx tracking also shows my monitor is in transit from Alaska.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> by the way they will probably send you an email threaten to deny return/exchange since you posted photos and "hurt" their business.


I disagree......accessorisewhole replied within 5 minutes to my Email and everytime i have emailed them they have been back in touch straight away to help me solve the problem......this shows they have *EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE* unlike others i have heard about which sometimes can take a week to respond.

I have had defective goods from currys, John lewis etc etc......this can happen to anybody.

They have just got back to me again saying it could be dust underneath the glass which could be the case.....they have asked me to tap on the screen to try and dislodge it which i have just now tried to no avail.

Has anyone opened up a tempered glass unit before.....is it the same process as the normal panels?

It would be a shame to send it back because of dust?


----------



## X79guy

has anyone here bought from worldbest365?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> has anyone here bought from worldbest365?


Never heard of them. If you could link me their eBay page I would be able to tell you their reliability.

Edit: Actually found their eBay page and they seem legitimate.


----------



## HTC_guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I am trying to sort out what you consider black, since everyone agrees, the blacks on these PLS screens (NOT IPS which you seem to indicate)
> is the blackest you can get. And if you are not getting your blacks in one game, then it's that game's colors that are off. try another calibrated ICS.
> 
> the technology that is refered to as IPS glow, isn't just IPS/PLS screens, it's every LCD, usually LED back-lighted. and is known as Backlight bleed.
> 
> As far as I know, 99% of the people with calibration tools and these monitors, didn't buy the multi-inputs for a reason. (i know I didn't, but I wanted 96/120hz)
> 
> TL;DR : the screens blacks are about as black as the come, if not, fix your software's colors.


thanks for the reply. I saw online that people were saying the blacks were good, I just cant see it though... I dont have a lot of BLB, I think Im quite fortunate in this regard, but I do have this kind of glow on all the blacks on the screen. I will try take some pics and then post here so you can see what Im talking about.

I have mounted the screen on the wall using VESA mounts, as I was sitting too close to it. It's also now on eye level and this has definitely appeared to help with things.

If I could just get rid of the glow i would be happy. My Samsung T260 had no glow whatsoever.


----------



## HTC_guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> brightness 87
> contrast 100
> 
> as profile I am using that on this thread's first page (the one suited for 60 Hz)
> 
> Is it looking good? Hard to tell, I don't have anything to compare it with.
> 
> I've even tried to calibrate witha proper HW tool, more than once. Didn't look good at all, way too yellow.
> 
> Hopefully we'll fins sombody else with the same multi input screen


sheesh bro, doesnt that brightness burn your eyeballs on a white background??









what tool are you using to calibrate? what is the brightness level on your tool saying when you have the screen set to 87 on the OSD (in cd/m2)

I used this profile
Quote:


> Personally, out of every calibration profile posted here the Asus PB278Q.icc (TFT Central source, not User source) looked the best on my monitor, and is a favorite for others as well. (It becomes named Asus PB278Q v3.icc when loaded into windows color management).


and I used this tool

http://goebish.free.fr/cpk/

cheers


----------



## HTC_guy

excellent thread on another site details exactly what Im reffering to. a clear disadvantage of IPS/PLS technology.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1749881


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HTC_guy*
> 
> excellent thread on another site details exactly what Im reffering to. a clear disadvantage of IPS/PLS technology.
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1749881


I don't see the point of that thread, other than they incorrectly place PLS and IPS in the same categorys that they don't 100% belong in.
namely color reproduction. they are very very similar technologys I agree, but to group them as the same (where anyone with eyes can see the differences, namely in blacks.), if you do that; might as well add TN panels to the group.

I don't know where that discussion was going, but it degraded into "CRT vs LCD" which we don't need. CRTs are now more of a niche that the crts that people want to compare to, most of them that are being used as the shining examples of crt tech, not a single normal consumer could afford, nor afford the hardware to run it (how many people had cards that could push the HZ with a RGBHV Monitor Cable? ) . they were super high end (Read : QHD prices) so, it's not a fair assessment.

do we want LCD tech to get pushed? of course. should we spend our time wishing it was like CRTs? I don't think so personally. innovation is a forward looking concept, not wishing of the past....

(this rant is not directed at the quoted, I just got going.... sorry







)


----------



## HTC_guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I don't see the point of that thread, other than they incorrectly place PLS and IPS in the same categorys that they don't 100% belong in.
> namely color reproduction. they are very very similar technologys I agree, but to group them as the same (where anyone with eyes can see the differences, namely in blacks.), if you do that; might as well add TN panels to the group.
> 
> I don't know where that discussion was going, but it degraded into "CRT vs LCD" which we don't need. CRTs are now more of a niche that the crts that people want to compare to, most of them that are being used as the shining examples of crt tech, not a single normal consumer could afford, nor afford the hardware to run it (how many people had cards that could push the HZ with a RGBHV Monitor Cable? ) . they were super high end (Read : QHD prices) so, it's not a fair assessment.
> 
> do we want LCD tech to get pushed? of course. should we spend our time wishing it was like CRTs? I don't think so personally. innovation is a forward looking concept, not wishing of the past....
> 
> (this rant is not directed at the quoted, I just got going.... sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


no problem at all. I agree that it did turn into a bit of a CRT vs LCD debate, and I agree that one needs to move ahead and push ahead new tech.

I guess my point was more the first page or two, where they touched on the blacks achieved by LCD tech. The best description I have found so far...
Quote:


> It does get better if you turn down the brightness to next to nil, but you will still see what appears to be black with this transparent white layer superimposed on top


I will have to fiddle around to get my brightness and contrast right, but its tricky as I dont have a calibration tool and I cant use the "use 22 clicks from bottom" method as I have the multi input model,, which means I have an OSD to adjust brightness and contrast.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HTC_guy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I don't see the point of that thread, other than they incorrectly place PLS and IPS in the same categorys that they don't 100% belong in.
> namely color reproduction. they are very very similar technologys I agree, but to group them as the same (where anyone with eyes can see the differences, namely in blacks.), if you do that; might as well add TN panels to the group.
> 
> I don't know where that discussion was going, but it degraded into "CRT vs LCD" which we don't need. CRTs are now more of a niche that the crts that people want to compare to, most of them that are being used as the shining examples of crt tech, not a single normal consumer could afford, nor afford the hardware to run it (how many people had cards that could push the HZ with a RGBHV Monitor Cable? ) . they were super high end (Read : QHD prices) so, it's not a fair assessment.
> 
> do we want LCD tech to get pushed? of course. should we spend our time wishing it was like CRTs? I don't think so personally. innovation is a forward looking concept, not wishing of the past....
> 
> (this rant is not directed at the quoted, I just got going.... sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> no problem at all. I agree that it did turn into a bit of a CRT vs LCD debate, and I agree that one needs to move ahead and push ahead new tech.
> 
> I guess my point was more the first page or two, where they touched on the blacks achieved by LCD tech. The best description I have found so far...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> It does get better if you turn down the brightness to next to nil, but you will still see what appears to be black with this transparent white layer superimposed on top
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I will have to fiddle around to get my brightness and contrast right, but its tricky as I dont have a calibration tool and I cant use the "use 22 clicks from bottom" method as I have the multi input model,, which means I have an OSD to adjust brightness and contrast.
Click to expand...

I agree, there is a fine point between "bright enough to actually see" and "**** colors are washed out", I personally hate having to turn on more lights to see my monitor better, so I deal with "greyer" blacks to get a bit more brightness from my screen. OF COURSE....

if I had a working calibration tool, quite a bit of that can be fixed. (and, if you had one, you could keep your settings "neutral" and get really close to desired)


----------



## Wakalakaz

I just pulled the trigger and ordered one of these last night went with the x-star from dream-seller, only 299. Says it shipped last night, cant wait to get it and i hope it comes this weekend, but that's a tall order. Whats the fastest people have gotten them from Korea?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> I just pulled the trigger and ordered one of these last night went with the x-star from dream-seller, only 299. Says it shipped last night, cant wait to get it and i hope it comes this weekend, but that's a tall order. Whats the fastest people have gotten them from Korea?


3 working days from dream-seller's "shipped"

ordered Sunday morning (like 4am ish (Sunday 4pm in Korea) ) it was on my doorstep in Michigan, USA wed, about noon.

NOW, I see that as a best case, most of my other orders, were 4 working days. with one being held up for a total of 6 working days (some holiday in korea)


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> 3 working days from dream-seller's "shipped"
> 
> ordered Sunday morning (like 4am ish (Sunday 4pm in Korea) ) it was on my doorstep in Michigan, USA wed, about noon.
> 
> NOW, I see that as a best case, most of my other orders, were 4 working days. with one being held up for a total of 6 working days (some holiday in korea)


ahh i c thanks the the reply. Yeah hopefully i will have it on Saturday so i can mess with it this weekend. Im super pumped for the 1440p, i remember when 1080p came out and my parents got an HDTV. At first I could barely tell the difference and though HD was a scam and stupid. Fast forward a year of 2 and now im spoiled its 1080 or bust for me. Hopefully this kick ass monitor wont spoil all the other 1080p screens for me lol.

Side note, how do 1080p movies and TV shows look on this thing? do they stretch or get distorted at all?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> 3 working days from dream-seller's "shipped"
> 
> ordered Sunday morning (like 4am ish (Sunday 4pm in Korea) ) it was on my doorstep in Michigan, USA wed, about noon.
> 
> NOW, I see that as a best case, most of my other orders, were 4 working days. with one being held up for a total of 6 working days (some holiday in korea)
> 
> 
> 
> ahh i c thanks the the reply. Yeah hopefully i will have it on Saturday so i can mess with it this weekend. Im super pumped for the 1440p, i remember when 1080p came out and my parents got an HDTV. At first I could barely tell the difference and though HD was a scam and stupid. Fast forward a year of 2 and now im spoiled its 1080 or bust for me. Hopefully this kick ass monitor wont spoil all the other 1080p screens for me lol.
> 
> Side note, how do 1080p movies and TV shows look on this thing? do they stretch or get distorted at all?
Click to expand...

I think they look awesome, but I use MadVR upscaling with smoothing (120hz), even without madvr... they still look 1080p.


----------



## bond32

Running my xstar at 120hz I see some small red lines horizontal across the screen. Looks great but are these lines signs I should back it down to 96?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Running my xstar at 120hz I see some small red lines horizontal across the screen. Looks great but are these lines signs I should back it down to 96?


Its a sign that your overclock is very close to being stable. Adjust your timings slightly and you should be fine







Dropping it back down to 96Hz probably isn't necessary.


----------



## ferrari312

Ordered from storewithstory on Thursday afternoon.

They emailed asking for my mobile before they would ship. Sent mobile Friday morning and in the evening got a text from DHL saying i had a delivery scheduled with a tracking number.

Saturday morning ( i think ) monitor was at a location in Korea, I then got a call from DHL asking for me to pay duty which I did. (£10







)

Parcel winged its way to Europe by Sunday evening, and was in the UK Monday morning. It arrived yesterday.

Monitor was wrapped in thick foam wrap ( about 3mm ? ) and well protected. Had a zero pixel defect sticker on it.

Box was in good shape, all usual package and covering in place on a new product you would expect.

Fired monitor up last night, iRacing is my thing pretty much, didnt see any dead pixels , refresh rate was clocked at 96Hz didnt try to go higher. Some BLB but i coudl actually live with it. very impressed with monitor..

all in all a great purchase and it cost £216 , cant argue with that.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Its a sign that your overclock is very close to being stable. Adjust your timings slightly and you should be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dropping it back down to 96Hz probably isn't necessary.


This was using the nvidia custom resolution. I'll try CRU and drop timings, thanks


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> This was using the nvidia custom resolution. I'll try CRU and drop timings, thanks


With an Nvidia card and the CRU, you should easily be able to get your pixel clock down to 459, that should help


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> With an Nvidia card and the CRU, you should easily be able to get your pixel clock down to 459, that should help


Seems good now. Still having strange issues in BF4, seems at 1440p any refresh rate occasionally it will hang when turning quickly or a big explosion happens. I think it is just not optimized for sli yet. Running 2 770 lightning cards with a mild OC.


----------



## Warsteiner

Ok I have been looking at 1440P monitors for a while now. I am really considering 3 different models. Can you guys give me your opinion on which one to get? or if there is a better one available. I would want the pixel perfect model of whatever one I get as dead/stuck pixels drive me nuts. Here are the 3 I am looking at:

Crossover 27QW: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY10M4480
QNIX QX2710: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY10G0367
Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X69280

Some questions you might have:
Budget: would like to keep it under $400 for pixel perfect
No I do not need to order it from Newegg and will be shopping around for the best price
EBay is fine as long as the seller has a good rating and feedback
I would love it if I could run the monitor at 120Hz, but 96Hz reliably will probably be good enough for me


----------



## TinDaDragon

Hmm.

Does overclocking lower the lifespan of the panels? I've had my X Star OC'd to 96Hz with no problem at all. Just don't want it to die in the future. I don't have the money to shell out for another one


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warsteiner*
> 
> Ok I have been looking at 1440P monitors for a while now. I am really considering 3 different models. Can you guys give me your opinion on which one to get? or if there is a better one available. I would want the pixel perfect model of whatever one I get as dead/stuck pixels drive me nuts. Here are the 3 I am looking at:
> 
> Crossover 27QW: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY10M4480
> QNIX QX2710: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY10G0367
> Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X69280
> 
> Some questions you might have:
> Budget: would like to keep it under $400 for pixel perfect
> No I do not need to order it from Newegg and will be shopping around for the best price
> EBay is fine as long as the seller has a good rating and feedback
> I would love it if I could run the monitor at 120Hz, but 96Hz reliably will probably be good enough for me


As far as I know, they Qnix QX2710 (and the X-Star) are the only Korean 1440p monitors that are capable of overclocking. At least to something as high as 96 or 120Hz.

The CrossOver 27QW uses the exact same panel as the Qnix. So with that one, you would be trading overclocking for a different bezel, the screen itself would be the same.

The CrossOver Black Tune uses an AH-IPS screen which is known for having sharper text/crisper images, but PLS is known for better colors. So in that case you'd be trading overclocking and colors for a different bezel and sharper text.

Honestly, as far as PLS vs. IPS go, theyre pretty similar. The real major difference here is the refresh rate. So out of the ones youve listed, the Qnix is the only one who will be able to do 120Hz









EDIT: Keep in mind that the only Qnix that is known to overclock is the *DVI ONLY* model. Multi-input ones seem to have issues going much above 60Hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TinDaDragon*
> 
> Hmm.
> 
> Does overclocking lower the lifespan of the panels? I've had my X Star OC'd to 96Hz with no problem at all. Just don't want it to die in the future. I don't have the money to shell out for another one


Its hard to say, as they haven't really been around for too long. There are overclocked Catleaps that have been alive for well over a year now, so the general consensus is: not really.

The maximum rated pixel clock is 450. So if your pixel clock is around 459 when at 120Hz, that's really not running much outside of the rated spec.

At 96Hz you'd be way below the max rated pixel clock, so you should be fine


----------



## JTHMfreak

BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!! Excuse the cam quality. Add me to the list. And how do I calibrate and check for dead pixels. Exactly how do I OC it?


----------



## TinDaDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTHMfreak*
> 
> BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!! Excuse the cam quality. Add me to the list. And how do I calibrate and check for dead pixels. Exactly how do I OC it?


Check the first post.


----------



## Warsteiner

Quote:


> As far as I know, they Qnix QX2710 (and the X-Star) are the only Korean 1440p monitors that are capable of overclocking. At least to something as high as 96 or 120Hz.
> 
> The CrossOver 27QW uses the exact same panel as the Qnix. So with that one, you would be trading overclocking for a different bezel, the screen itself would be the same.
> 
> The CrossOver Black Tune uses an AH-IPS screen which is known for having sharper text/crisper images, but PLS is known for better colors. So in that case you'd be trading overclocking and colors for a different bezel and sharper text.
> 
> Honestly, as far as PLS vs. IPS go, theyre pretty similar. The real major difference here is the refresh rate. So out of the ones youve listed, the Qnix is the only one who will be able to do 120Hz wink.gif
> 
> EDIT: Keep in mind that the only Qnix that is known to overclock is the DVI ONLY model. Multi-input ones seem to have issues going much above 60Hz.


Thank you for the reply. I had no idea that the others would not overclock. I am just really starting to research these monitors. Is there a better one than the ones I listed that I should give a look to?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warsteiner*
> 
> Thank you for the reply. I had no idea that the others would not overclock. I am just really starting to research these monitors. Is there a better one than the ones I listed that I should give a look to?


Actually, I could be wrong, after checking http://www.overclockmonitor.com/ it seems that theyre listing the CrossOver BlackTune you posted as an overclocking model too, although its quite a bit more expensive than a Qnix or X-Star :O

It must be new, I have never seen them posted before, at least not as overclockable


----------



## DiceAir

Upgraded my graphics card from 570sli to R9-280x Crossfire and must say it's amazing. But the reason posting here is because changing my Grpahics card not only I get higher FPS but also able to do 120Hz with no scan lines etc etc


----------



## gbmaztah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Upgraded my graphics card from 570sli to R9-280x Crossfire and must say it's amazing. But the reason posting here is because changing my Grpahics card not only I get higher FPS but also able to do 120Hz with no scan lines etc etc


I've been thinking about picking up a second 280x myself. How is Crossfire running for you? Do you notice any microstutter?


----------



## motorwayne

Question: Do the Nvidia and Radeon cards both work to overclock these monitors? I've seen the Nvidia software mentioned a few times, what about Radeon software? Deciding on next video card GTX780 or R9 290X but want to make sure software will work.

Cheers


----------



## Testier

My monitor arrived today. I think the ebay seller told me perfect pixel means zero dead pixel and I think he is right on my monitor. Had to pay import tax though. somewhat backlight bleed on full black screen at bottom/mid left corner


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> My monitor arrived today. I think the ebay seller told me perfect pixel means zero dead pixel and I think he is right on my monitor. Had to pay import tax though. somewhat backlight bleed on full black screen at bottom/mid left corner


How much was teh import tax if you dont' mind me asking?


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> How much was teh import tax if you dont' mind me asking?


55ish I think.


----------



## bmancreations

I will at Xmas have three of these monitors. I have a GTX 770 2GB card (windforce). I am wondering if it's possible to game on three 1440P monitors with this card? Yes and I mean at 1440P, not at a lower res.

Or, assuming its not really possible (unless graphic settings are in ****ty mode) what card upgrade would allow me to do so. Please note, my system is ITX, so single GPU is only possible.


----------



## bmancreations

Also, are all QNIXs & XSTARs exactly the same, or are there different versions for each?

I just went to buy my third XSTAR (multi input) but they say none left...so looking at the QNIX, the same?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I will at Xmas have three of these monitors. I have a GTX 770 2GB card (windforce). I am wondering if it's possible to game on three 1440P monitors with this card? Yes and I mean at 1440P, not at a lower res.
> 
> Or, assuming its not really possible (unless graphic settings are in ****ty mode) what card upgrade would allow me to do so. Please note, my system is ITX, so single GPU is only possible.


You will need to lower settings, with a 7970 (similar performance to 770) and 3x 1920x1080p screens i was able to get 45fps average on bf3 with ultra and no aa. I'm assuming you would be around 30fps with the same settings at 1440p. I would upgrade to titan or 290x if i was doing eyefinity or surround. Even then your not going to get 60fps at ultra in many games. Eyefinity or surround with 1440p is really a crossfire or sli proposition at this stage of the game if you ask me.


----------



## MorroWest

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I have laptop with HDMI and DisplayPort outs only I do need active adapter (~110€/100$)?
No gaming planned, just regular Autodesk Inventor/SolidWorks stuff.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorroWest*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I have laptop with HDMI and DisplayPort outs only I do need active adapter (~110€/100$)?
> No gaming planned, just regular Autodesk Inventor/SolidWorks stuff.


Ya the the active adapter will work just usually people don't get it b/c it's pretty expensive.......


----------



## MorroWest

Expensive + big and ugly.
Haven't find any dock/port replicator with dual-link DVI









Probably it would be better to get multi input monitor then.

Edit:
There ain't any multi input matte monitors as far as I know.
So yeah...Qnix/X-Star + adapter seems to be only way to go.
Also Qnix+adapter=multi input monitor price.

Suggestions for those active adapters?


----------



## JTHMfreak

having a bit of a hrad time with the guide, things not showing up, someone help[ please?


----------



## JTHMfreak

It all seems greek to me, maybe I am not in the right spot.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTHMfreak*
> 
> It all seems greek to me, maybe I am not in the right spot.


is it the OC guide on page 1 you are talking about? what's the problem?


----------



## JTHMfreak

The prob is I am too ******ed, or that the guide is weird to me, I can't seem to get the same pics as the guide.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> You will need to lower settings, with a 7970 (similar performance to 770) and 3x 1920x1080p screens i was able to get 45fps average on bf3 with ultra and no aa. I'm assuming you would be around 30fps with the same settings at 1440p. I would upgrade to titan or 290x if i was doing eyefinity or surround. Even then your not going to get 60fps at ultra in many games. Eyefinity or surround with 1440p is really a crossfire or sli proposition at this stage of the game if you ask me.


Thanks, that is pretty much what I thought. Though, from my experience, I am ok with 30fps and above, so I might be able to pull it off, but an upgrade will help. Maybe that 780TI card will be awesome.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Thanks, that is pretty much what I thought. Though, from my experience, I am ok with 30fps and above, so I might be able to pull it off, but an upgrade will help. Maybe that 780TI card will be awesome.


I don't think it will be that high. 3x 1440p has a bigger resolution than 4K (11M pixels vs 8M pixels), so you should be looking at 4K charts and still expect lower numbers than that.

That said, I was able to play games in med/high settings, no AA with my 7950 when I was using a 3240x1920 res (3x 1080p in portrait - 6M pixels). Since 3x 1440p is almost double 3x 1080p, you will most likely need a dual-GPU card or move out of mITX.


----------



## Wakalakaz

I currently have a 7870 GHz edition, i ordered 1 x-star and i plan to keep using my 23in 1080p monitor as well. If i am in a game on the xstar but have netflix on the other screen is that very straining on my GPU? or does it not take that much VRAM to run a movie/netflix?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> I currently have a 7870 GHz edition, i ordered 1 x-star and i plan to keep using my 23in 1080p monitor as well. If i am in a game on the xstar but have netflix on the other screen is that very straining on my GPU? or does it not take that much VRAM to run a movie/netflix?


It barely consumes any GPU power if you do other non-gaming things on other monitors. You may lose 1 or 2FPS at most, most likely none.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It barely consumes any GPU power if you do other non-gaming things on other monitors. You may lose 1 or 2FPS at most, most likely none.


awesome! thank for the help.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It barely consumes any GPU power if you do other non-gaming things on other monitors. You may lose 1 or 2FPS at most, most likely none.


Unless it is a very VRAM intensive game. Netflix plus a secondary monitor can add up to a good amount of VRAM. Just having my secondary monitor active ate 5-6FPS off of Skyrim. On the other hand Shadowrun didn't have any effect at all.

I also just tried running netflix on my second monitor while playing Skyrim and it took me from about 90FPS to 77FPS. Now i do have a LOT of texture mods and whatnot so it will use all of my 2GB of VRAM if it is allowed. So overall i would say in best case scenario it will have no performance impact and worst case scenario(since my VRAM was maxed) it can take 10-15% hit. Really depends on the game.

You could always very easily check it both ways real quick and see first hand what the impact is.


----------



## X79guy

Just received my Qnix QX2710LED today from worldbest365. Took 2 days to get it after buying it







Right out of the box OCed to 120hz in the nvidia control panel with no problems. Not getting any lines and there is *zero* backlight bleed. Using the supplied cable. Can anyone tell me why people use the pixel clock patcher and CRU for nvidia cards when you can just create a custom resolution from the nvidia control panel? I have tried BF4 and it reads my monitor as 2560x1440 120hz with no problems. Is there some thing I am not understanding?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Accessorieswhole is offering me another board to try and fix my flickering, I'm not sure if its the language gap or them dodging the question but I cant get them to say if or not they will replace it if I take it apart and screw it up by accident, obviously I don't want to dig into a monitor and possibly break it when I'm sure they have the ability to take a return. Anyone done this before? Did the Ebayer say it was covered?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Accessorieswhole is offering me another board to try and fix my flickering, I'm not sure if its the language gap or them dodging the question but I cant get them to say if or not they will replace it if I take it apart and screw it up by accident, obviously I don't want to dig into a monitor and possibly break it when I'm sure they have the ability to take a return. Anyone done this before? Did the Ebayer say it was covered?


id make sure I asked them point blank if further damage occurs from opening the monitor if they will accept the return, if not then they need to accept the return now.

I had an annoying time with like 15 back and forth messages (only one from them per 24 hours also annoying) trying to get a monitor returned. I bought from someone else next time.


----------



## AznCQ

Any idea when these monitors will drop to 269 again? or never









Wanted to get a 2nd one, but I guess I waited too long.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Any idea when these monitors will drop to 269 again? or never
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to get a 2nd one, but I guess I waited too long.


the pricing is all over the place on them. I'd wait they might go down around black friday


----------



## JTHMfreak

OCs to 120 with no frame skipping, but definitely some laggy or hang issues with mouse, lower the OC?
Even at 96, I get weird lag and hangs, almost like my pc itself is slowed down. Followed the guide.
Went down to 60 and still have the issue, Never had this before the oc


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> Just received my Qnix QX2710LED today from worldbest365. Took 2 days to get it after buying it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right out of the box OCed to 120hz in the nvidia control panel with no problems. Not getting any lines and there is *zero* backlight bleed. Using the supplied cable. Can anyone tell me why people use the pixel clock patcher and CRU for nvidia cards when you can just create a custom resolution from the nvidia control panel? I have tried BF4 and it reads my monitor as 2560x1440 120hz with no problems. Is there some thing I am not understanding?


Some game wont read the NVidia control panel...thus using CRU instead makes the Defualt Native 120hz instead leaving the Native to 60hz and using NVc to up.


----------



## hcopp

Question:

I received mine today , Qnix glossy. I love it. A couple questions actually. Is there a film over the display that needs tobe removed? When using the monitor it doesn't appear so, but when its off it looks cloudy. Also, there is a large, large cluster of dead pixels in the bottom left hand corner, at least 10+ within a 3" radius. I contacted greensum and am awaiting a response. What usually happens here? Do I have to send this back or will they send one out in advance? I have heard the possibility of a partial refund? I would be willing to consider that if I knew that the pixels would not get worse, any input? Thanks guys.


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hcopp*
> 
> Question:
> 
> I received mine today , Qnix glossy. I love it. A couple questions actually. Is there a film over the display that needs tobe removed? When using the monitor it doesn't appear so, but when its off it looks cloudy. Also, there is a large, large cluster of dead pixels in the bottom left hand corner, at least 10+ within a 3" radius. I contacted greensum and am awaiting a response. What usually happens here? Do I have to send this back or will they send one out in advance? I have heard the possibility of a partial refund? I would be willing to consider that if I knew that the pixels would not get worse, any input? Thanks guys.


Interesting that you mention this because I have a catleap 2b and noticed that the qnix looks cloudy when off, while the catleap 2b looks completely black. However the Qnix has better colors and seems to be more color accurate then the 2b which has a yellow tint to it. Overall I am extremely annoyed that I payed $800 for the 2b but extremely happy that I payed only 289.99 for the Qniz


----------



## Astonished

Just received my X-Star for $299 from Dream-Seller on eBay.

From Korea to South Carolina in 2 days...

No dead pixels, very little bleeding, overclocks to 120hz easily.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I don't think it will be that high. 3x 1440p has a bigger resolution than 4K (11M pixels vs 8M pixels), so you should be looking at 4K charts and still expect lower numbers than that.
> 
> That said, I was able to play games in med/high settings, no AA with my 7950 when I was using a 3240x1920 res (3x 1080p in portrait - 6M pixels). Since 3x 1440p is almost double 3x 1080p, you will most likely need a dual-GPU card or move out of mITX.


I am confused. 4K is a much higher res than 1440P...?


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Accessorieswhole is offering me another board to try and fix my flickering, I'm not sure if its the language gap or them dodging the question but I cant get them to say if or not they will replace it if I take it apart and screw it up by accident, obviously I don't want to dig into a monitor and possibly break it when I'm sure they have the ability to take a return. Anyone done this before? Did the Ebayer say it was covered?


Lol I replaced my board with the same seller, I did not get into the cover if I screwed up scenario though as took 6 weeks to just sort that part.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Lol I replaced my board with the same seller, I did not get into the cover if I screwed up scenario though as took 6 weeks to just sort that part.


What is the process of replacing the board? Might try to fix my BLB while I'm there.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I am confused. 4K is a much higher res than 1440P...?


He is saying that three 1440p monitors in surround is higher than 4K. Also three 1080p monitors in surround is pretty close to 4K. It is also good to point out that if your system can run [email protected](maintaining 120FPS) you can also likely run [email protected] since there is only about a 8% difference in total processing. for example:

2560x1440x120 = 442368000
3840x2160x60(4K) = 497664000
_________________________
0.888888%

With this in mind three 1440p monitors at 120hz would require a enormous amount of GPU power. I don't think even Titans in SLI could keep you over or equal to 60FPS. The VRAM requirements alone would be 6GB or more as 1440p can easily utilize 2GB of VRAM depending on the game and the texture sizes. You having 3 times that much resolution would ideally need 3 times the VRAM or more.

All that said i have GTX770s in SLI and i can push most everything at 120hz/FPS but still in certain games must turn down settings to keep 120FPS. So ideally i(with my system) would need 3 times the GPU power of GTX770s in SLI. The new AMD GPU or the GTX780ti in TRI SLI might be able to push 1440p times 3 screens in surround and keep 120FPS given you do not hit a VRAM ceiling due to textures.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> He is saying that three 1440p monitors in surround is higher than 4K. Also three 1080p monitors in surround is pretty close to 4K. It is also good to point out that if your system can run [email protected](maintaining 120FPS) you can also likely run [email protected] since there is only about a 8% difference in total processing. for example:
> 
> 2560x1440x120 = 442368000
> 3840x2160x60(4K) = 497664000
> _________________________
> 0.888888%
> 
> With this in mind three 1440p monitors at 120hz would require a enormous amount of GPU power. I don't think even Titans in SLI could keep you over or equal to 60FPS. The VRAM requirements alone would be 6GB or more as 1440p can easily utilize 2GB of VRAM depending on the game and the texture sizes. You having 3 times that much resolution would ideally need 3 times the VRAM or more.
> 
> All that said i have GTX770s in SLI and i can push most everything at 120hz/FPS but still in certain games must turn down settings to keep 120FPS. So ideally i(with my system) would need 3 times the GPU power of GTX770s in SLI. The new AMD GPU or the GTX780ti in TRI SLI might be able to push 1440p times 3 screens in surround and keep 120FPS given you do not hit a VRAM ceiling due to textures.


It's a disappointment really. 4K screens are basically here, or more importantly, higher then 1080p screens are here. I should be able to do this kind of setup on one GPU.









I guess I will have to either lower graphic settings, which I dont think I am willing to do, or lower to 1080p in game. Interesting information though, thanks


----------



## bloodr0se

This might be slightly OT but has anybody tried both the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II and the Crossover 27QW and which one of the two would they recommend or would the recommendation be for a different model entirely?

I would most be using it for gaming.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> What is the process of replacing the board? Might try to fix my BLB while I'm there.


It was real simple, I was a bit apprehensive but went without hitch and all honesty took a very short time. Follow the video guide in the op for dismantling the casing. When you get the cover off the pcb itself is just a few screws to remove and swap the board out, I was worried regards getting the wires back correctly but each one only fits in the correct place due to size of the plugs.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> This might be slightly OT but has anybody tried both the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II and the Crossover 27QW and which one of the two would they recommend or would the recommendation be for a different model entirely?
> 
> I would most be using it for gaming.


I've actually had both. The 27QW was very very nice picture maybe just a little tiny bit better than the qnix IPS vs PLS

However not enough to justify overlooking the 96-120hz you get with the qnix.

One good thing with the crossover is backlight bleed is a non issue.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> It was real simple, I was a bit apprehensive but went without hitch and all honesty took a very short time. Follow the video guide in the op for dismantling the casing. When you get the cover off the pcb itself is just a few screws to remove and swap the board out, I was worried regards getting the wires back correctly but each one only fits in the correct place due to size of the plugs.


I didn't get to look when I took out the stand, but the wires are basically just plugs? Like what you would connect to your motherboard?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> It's a disappointment really. 4K screens are basically here, or more importantly, higher then 1080p screens are here. I should be able to do this kind of setup on one GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will have to either lower graphic settings, which I dont think I am willing to do, or lower to 1080p in game. Interesting information though, thanks


They are far from mainstream sadly. I would hazard to guess that most of us on these computer enthusiast forums barely make 1% of the actual PC gaming population. If you look at the majority, most people are playing on laptops.

I could never agree with putting gaming and laptops together, but that's an entirely different topic.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I didn't get to look when I took out the stand, but the wires are basically just plugs? Like what you would connect to your motherboard?
> They are far from mainstream sadly. I would hazard to guess that most of us on these computer enthusiast forums barely make 1% of the actual PC gaming population. If you look at the majority, most people are playing on laptops.
> 
> I could never agree with putting gaming and laptops together, but that's an entirely different topic.


Yeah it's three different plug style cords


----------



## ya mother

Update on my dead pixel problem.....im only concerned about this group of dead pixels tbh as i cant live with these.....



I have been in contact with the buyer and they suggested it could be dust.....so i asked them if i could open up the Monitor and clean the glass and panel as it would be a shame to send it all the way back to Korea if it was as easy as that to fix it and they agreed as long as i didnt damage anything.

So yesterday i opened it up and removed the glass (easy job) and there was no dust.....wiped it anyway just incase.....now they have offered me a partial refund or return the Monitor.....i have said there is no way i could live with this blob on my monitor so a want to return it.

My question is has anyone done this and who pays the return charge as i have just looked online and from the UK to Korea its gonna cost £108.00...$173.77 which is more than half the cost of the Monitor?


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I've actually had both. The 27QW was very very nice picture maybe just a little tiny bit better than the qnix IPS vs PLS
> 
> However not enough to justify overlooking the 96-120hz you get with the qnix.
> 
> One good thing with the crossover is backlight bleed is a non issue.


Thanks, so would you probably go for the 27QW then or does the OC'ing potential outweigh the Crossover's benefits.

I guess I'm trying to future proof my setup as much as possible really.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Update on my dead pixel problem.....im only concerned about this group of dead pixels tbh as i cant live with these.....
> 
> 
> 
> I have been in contact with the buyer and they suggested it could be dust.....so i asked them if i could open up the Monitor and clean the glass and panel as it would be a shame to send it all the way back to Korea if it was as easy as that to fix it and they agreed as long as i didnt damage anything.
> 
> So yesterday i opened it up and removed the glass (easy job) and there was no dust.....wiped it anyway just incase.....now they have offered me a partial refund or return the Monitor.....i have said there is no way i could live with this blob on my monitor so a want to return it.
> 
> My question is has anyone done this and who pays the return charge as i have just looked online and from the UK to Korea its gonna cost £108.00...$173.77 which is more than half the cost of the Monitor?


This is my biggest concern about importing one of these things tbh. I've noticed that some of the ebay sellers do offer to pay return costs for the first year though. Is the original listing you bought it from still live (assuming that it was ebay)?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Update on my dead pixel problem.....im only concerned about this group of dead pixels tbh as i cant live with these.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been in contact with the buyer and they suggested it could be dust.....so i asked them if i could open up the Monitor and clean the glass and panel as it would be a shame to send it all the way back to Korea if it was as easy as that to fix it and they agreed as long as i didnt damage anything.
> 
> So yesterday i opened it up and removed the glass (easy job) and there was no dust.....wiped it anyway just incase.....now they have offered me a partial refund or return the Monitor.....i have said there is no way i could live with this blob on my monitor so a want to return it.
> 
> My question is has anyone done this and who pays the return charge as i have just looked online and from the UK to Korea its gonna cost £108.00...$173.77 which is more than half the cost of the Monitor?


If you didn't pay for a pixel perfect version you might be screwed. I paid for a pixel perfect version on my first korean monitor and it developed 2 bad pixels after about 10-15 days. I insisted they pay for the return shipping. I think they only did pay for the return shipping because I filed for a chargeback with my credit card and they realized they might end up with no money or monitor if they didn't do it. This was accessories whole and they had stated 0 dead pixels in the ad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Thanks, so would you probably go for the 27QW then or does the OC'ing potential outweigh the Crossover's benefits.
> 
> I guess I'm trying to future proof my setup as much as possible really.


well they both have pro's and cons

*pros* of the 27qw are no backlight problems
possibly slightly better picture but that is in the eye of the beholder.

*cons* of the 27qw are I really did not like that silver piece of plastic on the bottom. It does come off very easy as I was gonna paint it before I realized I had bad pixels

does not overclock at all.

*pros* of the qnix
overclocks from 96-120hz with alot of them doing 120hz
the two I have had only did 110hz each but that is fine with me.

When you overclock you have a gamma shift but I was able to completely fix that using 1.45 gamma in the amd control panel and it passes all the color/gamma tests and looks great.

*cons* of the qnix are backlight bleed
*
cons of both:* utterly garbage stand (they have the exact same stand) I replaced it with a mono price desk mount stand

I have what I believe to be backlight bleed on my monitor, or it might just be the normal PLS glow I hear people talking about. If you play a ton of games like Battlefield3/4 You will never even see backlight bleed except on loading screens. If you play more dark action adventure games like metro 2033 or tombraider or some such that glow/bleed can he highly annoying. I put black electrical tape around the frame of my monitor as per the OP post on this thread and it didn't seem to do much.

I want to take pictures of it to get peoples opinion on if it is backlight bleed or if it is just the glow but I can never get a good picture of it that looks anything like what it actually looks like to my eye.

Over all I am very happy with my qnix for the 310$ I spent on it. It came pixel perfect but developed one bright pixel but you CANNOT see it from normal viewing distance even on a black screen unless you look very hard for it.

so the qnix does have the possibility of annoying BLB that some people have had success in fixing, but some have not had luck like me. But again I'm not entirely sure if mine is what is considered backlight bleed or if it is "normal" pls glow.


----------



## ya mother

I think the zero dead pixel policy is different......they do promise no more than 6 dead pixels on all their monitors but if you get 6 then your screwed....but obviously the perfect pixel means your paying for zero.

Theres no way im paying £108.00 to send it back....but they seem ok so far......im going to insist on a perfect pixel replacement with no extra charge for my inconvenience......i have 45 days to do a chargeback so still plenty of time.


----------



## Velathawen

So I get severe artifacts ONLY when looking at the log-in screen and in these types of colors, such as when I look at the pictures in a viewer. Everywhere else the monitor works fine (games, movies, etc.), is there any way to fix this?

P1000813.JPG 2326k .JPG file


P1000814.JPG 3088k .JPG file


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I think the zero dead pixel policy is different......they do promise no more than 6 dead pixels on all their monitors but if you get 6 then your screwed....but obviously the perfect pixel means your paying for zero.
> 
> Theres no way im paying £108.00 to send it back....but they seem ok so far......im going to insist on a perfect pixel replacement with no extra charge for my inconvenience......i have 45 days to do a chargeback so still plenty of time.


Just out of curiosity, did you look at any of those online international parcel firms when you got the £108 quote? My OH is from Japan and was able to send all of the Christmas presents for family back home last year by 2 day UPS for less than half of what Royal Mail wanted for a much slower service.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I think the zero dead pixel policy is different......they do promise no more than 6 dead pixels on all their monitors but if you get 6 then your screwed....but obviously the perfect pixel means your paying for zero.
> 
> Theres no way im paying £108.00 to send it back....but they seem ok so far......im going to insist on a perfect pixel replacement with no extra charge for my inconvenience......i have 45 days to do a chargeback so still plenty of time.


Alternatively, see if they let you keep it for ~£50. It may be the case that the controller board can be swapped out to a "better" AH-IPS panel, in which case you could get one with a nice stand and AH-IPS, swap out the controller to get 120Hz on that, and put the 60Hz controller in the bad Qnix.

It may work, but I don't know much about controller compatibility.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> ]
> If you didn't pay for a pixel perfect version you might be screwed. I paid for a pixel perfect version on my first korean monitor and it developed 2 bad pixels after about 10-15 days. I insisted they pay for the return shipping. I think they only did pay for the return shipping because I filed for a chargeback with my credit card and they realized they might end up with no money or monitor if they didn't do it. This was accessories whole and they had stated 0 dead pixels in the ad
> well they both have pro's and cons
> 
> *pros* of the 27qw are no backlight problems
> possibly slightly better picture but that is in the eye of the beholder.
> 
> *cons* of the 27qw are I really did not like that silver piece of plastic on the bottom. It does come off very easy as I was gonna paint it before I realized I had bad pixels
> 
> does not overclock at all.
> 
> *pros* of the qnix
> overclocks from 96-120hz with alot of them doing 120hz
> the two I have had only did 110hz each but that is fine with me.
> 
> When you overclock you have a gamma shift but I was able to completely fix that using 1.45 gamma in the amd control panel and it passes all the color/gamma tests and looks great.
> 
> *cons* of the qnix are backlight bleed
> *
> cons of both:* utterly garbage stand (they have the exact same stand) I replaced it with a mono price desk mount stand
> 
> I have what I believe to be backlight bleed on my monitor, or it might just be the normal PLS glow I hear people talking about. If you play a ton of games like Battlefield3/4 You will never even see backlight bleed except on loading screens. If you play more dark action adventure games like metro 2033 or tombraider or some such that glow/bleed can he highly annoying. I put black electrical tape around the frame of my monitor as per the OP post on this thread and it didn't seem to do much.
> 
> I want to take pictures of it to get peoples opinion on if it is backlight bleed or if it is just the glow but I can never get a good picture of it that looks anything like what it actually looks like to my eye.
> 
> Over all I am very happy with my qnix for the 310$ I spent on it. It came pixel perfect but developed one bright pixel but you CANNOT see it from normal viewing distance even on a black screen unless you look very hard for it.
> 
> so the qnix does have the possibility of annoying BLB that some people have had success in fixing, but some have not had luck like me. But again I'm not entirely sure if mine is what is considered backlight bleed or if it is "normal" pls glow.


Really helpful post, thanks. I think I'm going to opt for the Qnix as I have to wear glasses all the time and the matte screen is probably better for my eyes than the Crossover glossy one anyway. Still can't completely decide though....


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, did you look at any of those online international parcel firms when you got the £108 quote? My OH is from Japan and was able to send all of the Christmas presents for family back home last year by 2 day UPS for less than half of what Royal Mail wanted for a much slower service.


tbh i only checked 1 online shipping site and after i recovered from the shock and stopped shaking i was too scared to look anymore.









@ Moragg i think your replying to someone elses problem and have qouted my dead pixel post m8.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Really helpful post, thanks. I think I'm going to opt for the Qnix as I have to wear glasses all the time and the matte screen is probably better for my eyes than the Crossover glossy one anyway. Still can't completely decide though....


The matte screen is very nice on the qnix, blocks a good bit of glare and doesn't change the picture hardly at all.

I don't even remember if the 27qw was glossy or not honestly, but now that you mention it I think it was and glare kind of sucked with it. So that could be added as another con I spose.


----------



## ya mother

Its actually no more than 3 dead pixels.....dunno where i got 6 from lol.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> @ Moragg i think your replying to someone elses problem and have qouted my dead pixel post m8.


Unless I read it wrong, I thought you had the dead pixel problem?


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> The matte screen is very nice on the qnix, blocks a good bit of glare and doesn't change the picture hardly at all.
> 
> I don't even remember if the 27qw was glossy or not honestly, but now that you mention it I think it was and glare kind of sucked with it. So that could be added as another con I spose.


I think it comes in both but the matte version of it tends to be a bit more expensive. The reviews I've read say that the screen sparkles but also can reflect quite a large amount.

I've made an offer for a QX2710 on ebay anyway so it's just a case of waiting for the seller to respond now.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> I think it comes in both but the matte version of it tends to be a bit more expensive. The reviews I've read say that the screen sparkles but also can reflect quite a large amount.


Honestly the worst part about that monitor imo was that stupid silver bezel. I mean what were they thinking? Before I even bought that monitor I had a feeling it was a bad idea and that would drive me nuts, well it did. I was all ready to paint it too









Maybe im just ocd but I couldn't stop looking at it .

Haha I just noticed that the monitor stand in that pic isn't even level. that thing is so bad it moves when you type.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Honestly the worst part about that monitor imo was that stupid silver bezel. I mean what were they thinking? Before I even bought that monitor I had a feeling it was a bad idea and that would drive me nuts, well it did. I was all ready to paint it too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe im just ocd but I couldn't stop looking at it .
> 
> Haha I just noticed that the monitor stand in that pic isn't even level. that thing is so bad it moves when you type.










That is a bit shocking actually. I can't say the silver bezel would bother all that much although obviously I haven't seen it in person. I'm someone who often plays games in the dark though which may have contributed to my less than stellar eyesight.

I'll need to start looking for an alternate stand actually since I've heard nothing but bad things about the stock ones. Is the supplied stand on the Qnix just as bad?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a bit shocking actually. I can't say the silver bezel would bother all that much although obviously I haven't seen it in person. I'm someone who often plays games in the dark though which may have contributed to my less than stellar eyesight.
> 
> I'll need to start looking for an alternate stand actually since I've heard nothing but bad things about the stock ones. Is the supplied stand on the Qnix just as bad?


it is 100% the exact same stand! I bought this

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2

if anyone wants to buy anything from monoprice let me know and I can email you a $5 off coupon and I get a 10$ credit for referring people. They generally have very good products for resonable prices. Honesty: the shipping speed has sucked a little bit in my opinion.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Unless I read it wrong, I thought you had the dead pixel problem?


yeah but you baffled me with this statement of which i haven't a clue what you mean lol

*"It may be the case that the controller board can be swapped out to a "better" AH-IPS panel"*


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> it is 100% the exact same stand!


Will definitely need to look into that then. Do most of the major sellers provide a dual-dvi cable btw or do you usually need to buy one separately? I know my video card supports it but I can't remember if there was one in the box since I've only ever used it connected to my TV via HDMI.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Will definitely need to look into that then. Do most of the major sellers provide a dual-dvi cable btw or do you usually need to buy one separately? I know my video card supports it but I can't remember if there was one in the box since I've only ever used it connected to my TV via HDMI.


I edited my post with info on the stand I bought and I can get you 5$ off if you buy from monoprice.

They come with a wire which works fine. I replaced it with a wire that atleast one dude on amazon claimed worked better even than the supplied/mono price wires but it didn't help my max overclock at all.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I edited my post with info on the stand I bought and I can get you 5$ off if you buy from monoprice.
> 
> They come with a wire which works fine. I replaced it with a wire that atleast one dude on amazon claimed worked better even than the supplied/mono price wires but it didn't help my max overclock at all.


Monoprice would be fine but I'm in the UK and I'm not sure how they are re: international shipping.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Monoprice would be fine but I'm in the UK and I'm not sure how they are re: international shipping.


ahh, yeah I have no idea on that one.

edit: found this pretty quick.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=me%3DA1EPTO47FZ4KN6&field-keywords=vesa

works out really well if you have amazon prime i'd imagine free shipping.

monoprice Uk store on amazon.com uk.

I don't know if the 5$ off coupon would still work or not though.

I just realized I could have gotten the same stand from mono price through amazon in the US and the price would have been about the same but it would have come in 2-3 business days. I think it took them a week.









wow just realized all the rep you guys have given, thanks lol!


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> ahh, yeah I have no idea on that one.
> 
> edit: found this pretty quick.
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=me%3DA1EPTO47FZ4KN6&field-keywords=vesa
> 
> works out really well if you have amazon prime i'd imagine free shipping.
> 
> monoprice Uk store on amazon.com uk.
> 
> I don't know if the 5$ off coupon would still work or not though.
> 
> I just realized I could have gotten the same stand from mono price through amazon in the US and the price would have been about the same but it would have come in 2-3 business days. I think it took them a week.


That's awesome, thanks.









It's free delivery on that for everyone in the UK btw. Everything above £10 gets free delivery here and they offer free shipping on music/games/movies regardless of price. You can even use £0.50 CD's as filler items to get other items delivered for free so it's not all bad here in the old country.









I'm not looking to mount it to anything so I'll probably just go for this one I think.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_2?m=A1EPTO47FZ4KN6&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1383917429&sr=1-2&keywords=vesa


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> That's awesome, thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's free delivery on that for everyone in the UK btw. Everything above £10 gets free delivery here and they offer free shipping on music/games/movies regardless of price. You can even use £0.50 CD's as filler items to get other items delivered for free so it's not all bad here in the old country.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not looking to mount it to anything so I'll probably just go for this one I think.
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_2?m=A1EPTO47FZ4KN6&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1383917429&sr=1-2&keywords=vesa


that one says 10-23 inches but I also think it might be the one in the OP ad the weight it says is more than enough for these monitors, so should work fine.

if you want to pm me your email or some throw away email if you don't want advertisements from them (I use an email for all my online shopping / mailing lists etc) I can send out that coupon and see if it works. If not no biggie.


----------



## Broadband

I am looking to get a good stand for my QNIX. has anybody had anything shipped from Monoprice to Europe?
Delivery costs to Europe on their website are overwhelming...

Otherwise, any other suggestion? A different brancd maybe?

Thanks a lot


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> I am looking to get a good stand for my QNIX. has anybody had anything shipped from Monoprice to Europe?
> Delivery costs to Europe on their website are overwhelming...
> 
> Otherwise, any other suggestion? A different brancd maybe?
> 
> Thanks a lot


Can't you just buy it from Amazon UK using the link above?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Unless I read it wrong, I thought you had the dead pixel problem?
> 
> 
> 
> yeah but you baffled me with this statement of which i haven't a clue what you mean lol
> 
> *"It may be the case that the controller board can be swapped out to a "better" AH-IPS panel"*
Click to expand...

There was a bit of talk about it earlier - the controller board is what takes the input and displays it on the screen. It can also be swapped out - like Overlord's PCBs - so if you could put one in, say a Dell U2713HM or another 1440p panel it could work and give you 120Hz on that.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> There was a bit of talk about it earlier - the controller board is what takes the input and displays it on the screen. It can also be swapped out - like Overlord's PCBs - so if you could put one in, say a Dell U2713HM or another 1440p panel it could work and give you 120Hz on that.


So its not the actual panel that has dead pixels....it's something else that causes this?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> So its not the actual panel that has dead pixels....it's something else that causes this?


The panel has dead pixels - it's just that the thing that controls the panel could be taken out and used elsewhere to give 120Hz on a different 1440p panel that doesn't have dead pixels.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Here's a free Steam key for "Batman: Arkham Asylum - Game of the Year Edition" for whoever claims it first







Which will probably be a lurker who wont post, but meh!

https://www.humblebundle.com/gift?key=S4yBTMbxKx5sPTwy


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> The panel has dead pixels - it's just that the thing that controls the panel could be taken out and used elsewhere to give 120Hz on a different 1440p panel that doesn't have dead pixels.


Ah i see.


----------



## MeneerVent

Got my Qnix today..
I tried to connect it to the PC I build yesterday, that has a 4670k, VI Hero and no GPU. First I get some colors (Red and green I believe) and than a bunch of lines. When I connect it to my TV first and boot up, and than connect to the Qnix I get this colors and lines. When I connect the monitor to the PC and than boot it up I get nothing. I am using this cheapass hdmi-dvi DL converter, with the stock cable. Anyone know what can be wrong? I will be buying a discrete GPU as soon as the Aftermarket coolers for the R9 290 come out, would this solve the problem?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> Here's a free Steam key for "Batman: Arkham Asylum - Game of the Year Edition" for whoever claims it first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which will probably be a lurker who wont post, but meh!
> 
> https://www.humblebundle.com/gift?key=S4yBTMbxKx5sPTwy


I gave you a rep since the key was already used but no one posted a thank you for it. Very nice of you!


----------



## pk7677

Any body using windows 8.1 pro? Why isn't my overclock working? I followed the steps I did in windows 7 before upgrading to w8 but 120hz doesn't show up in monitor setting in windows. What am I doing wrong?

Edited: Forgot to use the amd patcher on my new graphics cards, now its all fixed. Thanks.


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I gave you a rep since the key was already used but no one posted a thank you for it. Very nice of you!


Ditto. Wonder who took the key and didn't bother saying thanks?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pk7677*
> 
> Any body using windows 8.1 pro? Why isn't my overclock working? I followed the steps I did in windows 7 before upgrading to w8 but 120hz doesn't show up in monitor setting in windows. What am I doing wrong?
> 
> Edited: Forgot to use the amd patcher on my new graphics cards, now its all fixed. Thanks.


Yeah I did the same thing upgraded to 8.1 and forgot to run the patcher couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Got my Qnix today..
> I tried to connect it to the PC I build yesterday, that has a 4670k, VI Hero and no GPU. First I get some colors (Red and green I believe) and than a bunch of lines. When I connect it to my TV first and boot up, and than connect to the Qnix I get this colors and lines. When I connect the monitor to the PC and than boot it up I get nothing. I am using this cheapass hdmi-dvi DL converter, with the stock cable. Anyone know what can be wrong? I will be buying a discrete GPU as soon as the Aftermarket coolers for the R9 290 come out, would this solve the problem?


IIRC, you can not use any sort of adapter. It needs to be DVI > DVI only.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Dual link DVI. Active display port adapters do work but they are like $80.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Got my Qnix today..
> I tried to connect it to the PC I build yesterday, that has a 4670k, VI Hero and no GPU. First I get some colors (Red and green I believe) and than a bunch of lines. When I connect it to my TV first and boot up, and than connect to the Qnix I get this colors and lines. When I connect the monitor to the PC and than boot it up I get nothing. I am using this cheapass hdmi-dvi DL converter, with the stock cable. Anyone know what can be wrong? I will be buying a discrete GPU as soon as the Aftermarket coolers for the R9 290 come out, would this solve the problem?


1440p resolutions (and Qnixes) are not compatible with HDMI->DVI adapters.


----------



## MeneerVent

That sucks








Wasted €10,-
Well, I just ordered a 5450 (cheapest GPU I could find) and I will just use that until I get the 290


----------



## JTHMfreak

So it appears that I do not have a single dead pixel, nice. And it did 120hz without any problems last night.


----------



## Coree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> That sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wasted €10,-
> Well, I just ordered a 5450 (cheapest GPU I could find) and I will just use that until I get the 290


Ehh, 5450 may NOT work.
I have a Sapphire 5450 1GB version, and the monitor did not post when I tried to use it. Only works with my 7870LE..
I don't know if it's the GPU vendor or something, or the GPU is just not capable. Quite misleading, as the ebay sellers say that there is support for the 5450.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

5450 worked for me. XFX passive with 512MB. Saw BIOS, did not actually boot an OS, though that should be good enough. Have one in my server box and hooked the QNIX up to it at one point to test when I could not get video signal suddenly on main rig (turned out needed to tighten cable completely on display connection side on both top and bottom pins).


----------



## MeneerVent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coree*
> 
> Ehh, 5450 may NOT work.
> I have a Sapphire 5450 1GB version, and the monitor did not post when I tried to use it. Only works with my 7870LE..
> I don't know if it's the GPU vendor or something, or the GPU is just not capable. Quite misleading, as the ebay sellers say that there is support for the 5450.


Does that GPU work on other monitors?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> 5450 worked for me. XFX passive with 512MB. Saw BIOS, did not actually boot an OS, though that should be good enough. Have one in my server box and hooked the QNIX up to it at one point to test when I could not get video signal suddenly on main rig (turned out needed to tighten cable completely on display connection side on both top and bottom pins).


But does the Qnix work and show stuff when you connect it to the 5450?

Who has a cheap GPU working with the Qnix?


----------



## travanx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> it is 100% the exact same stand! I bought this
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2
> 
> if anyone wants to buy anything from monoprice let me know and I can email you a $5 off coupon and I get a 10$ credit for referring people. They generally have very good products for resonable prices. Honesty: the shipping speed has sucked a little bit in my opinion.


About to pull the trigger on one of these monitors. For those that may not know monoprice does really cheap overnight shipping if you live in California. I think its a flat $5 last time I bought a huge box of stuff to rewire the entire house for HDMI and ethernet.


----------



## Ryder92

Hey quick question for the rest of the owners out there, Ive been looking for a VESA mount arm for this monitor, just wondering what everyone else has to weigh in on this. Rather it clip onto the desk than screw in. Havent really been able to find anything for monitors over 24 inches, and the ones I have arent exactly what I am looking for.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I posted one a few pages back


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryder92*
> 
> Hey quick question for the rest of the owners out there, Ive been looking for a VESA mount arm for this monitor, just wondering what everyone else has to weigh in on this. Rather it clip onto the desk than screw in. Havent really been able to find anything for monitors over 24 inches, and the ones I have arent exactly what I am looking for.


Clip on like a clothes pin? Or potato chip bag thingy? I don't think there is one like that and if there is I'm sure the weight of the monitor would be too great. If I'm wrong I'd like to see this!

I think youre stuck with the screw down kind.


----------



## Ryder92

I understand the clamp mechanics, but I cannot be screwing anything into my desk currently, the product you showed me (hardware decoded) will actually work perfectly, are there instructions on removing the stand from the Qnix qx2710 somewhere?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryder92*
> 
> I understand the clamp mechanics, but I cannot be screwing anything into my desk currently, the product you showed me (hardware decoded) will actually work perfectly, are there instructions on removing the stand from the Qnix qx2710 somewhere?


Many places, but I used this Youtube video to do it, starts around *4:00*.


----------



## Ryder92

Thanks mate repped^^


----------



## Testier

K. I did not have an option to change hz in catalyst after patching.


----------



## X79guy

For those who bought the glossy QX2710, if you look at the screen when its off you will notice it looks "cloudy". Well I was doing some investigating and there is actually a sheet of glass in front of the actual panel. This may also apply to the matte version. An easy test to do without taking apart the monitor is to just tap on the front of it while the monitor is on. If there is not a temporary flash, then there is glass in front of it. Also it will have a distinct sound. I plan to remove the glass as I dont like the look of it when its off.


----------



## Velathawen

Question for those who had enough problems to warrant a potential return, what was the procedure like? I bought my monitor from green-sum and I've informed them about the ridiculous pixel problems when I look at lighter color content (like light blue) and they have requested I email them at a separate email outside of Ebay to enable the sending of higher resolution pictures of my claim. Is this supposed to be standard procedure? Thanks!

Pics for reference:


----------



## Coree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Does that GPU work on other monitors?
> But does the Qnix work and show stuff when you connect it to the 5450?
> 
> Who has a cheap GPU working with the Qnix?


Yes, the 5450 works on my old Dell 19''. The Qnix's led light just blinks, and nothing appears on the screen.


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> For those who bought the glossy QX2710, if you look at the screen when its off you will notice it looks "cloudy". Well I was doing some investigating and there is actually a sheet of glass in front of the actual panel. This may also apply to the matte version. An easy test to do without taking apart the monitor is to just tap on the front of it while the monitor is on. If there is not a temporary flash, then there is glass in front of it. Also it will have a distinct sound. I plan to remove the glass as I dont like the look of it when its off.


maybe you bought the tempered glass version?

I have a glossy qnix and there is definitely no glass anywhere on the panel


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Many places, but I used this Youtube video to do it, starts around *4:00*.


Excellent review.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Question for those who had enough problems to warrant a potential return, what was the procedure like? I bought my monitor from green-sum and I've informed them about the ridiculous pixel problems when I look at lighter color content (like light blue) and they have requested I email them at a separate email outside of Ebay to enable the sending of higher resolution pictures of my claim. Is this supposed to be standard procedure? Thanks!
> 
> Pics for reference:


Yeah the company i went through asked me to email them the pics.....standard procedure i would have thought.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> For those who bought the glossy QX2710, if you look at the screen when its off you will notice it looks "cloudy". Well I was doing some investigating and there is actually a sheet of glass in front of the actual panel. This may also apply to the matte version. An easy test to do without taking apart the monitor is to just tap on the front of it while the monitor is on. If there is not a temporary flash, then there is glass in front of it. Also it will have a distinct sound. I plan to remove the glass as I dont like the look of it when its off.


You have the Tempered glass version the same as mine.


----------



## DiceAir

Can someone please enlightened me as to why I get this issue?

So my issue is I upgraded from GTX570SLI to AMD R9-280x crossfire. I used CRU now to set my Screen refresh rate to 96Hz. sometimes when I play games and watch a video file I get screen flickering and that never used to happen on my GTX570 SLI setup.

I'm using windows 8.1 and I also reformatted my pc after changing Graphics cards. BTW this is only happening in full screen. I tried changing cables with a lindy Dual DVI gold lated cable with no go. With the stock cable I can play a little longer without it flickering I also tried chaning sli bridges and connecting 2 at the same time. I feel so angry with myself for not waiting for the R9-290/290x non reference cards so I don't have to put up with this multi gpu nonsense.

Anyway. Is there something I can maybe tried. Oh I also tried having LCD reduced still same issue.


----------



## MeneerVent

Does anyone know if the Sapphire HD 6450 1GB will work on this monitor? Or have expierence with it?


----------



## DiceAir

oh and just another thing is when I start up my pc even on 60hz I get 2 screen flickers and then it goes away.


----------



## Testier

The frame skipping test still shows 60fps for some reason after I have overclocked it. How can I change that?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testier*
> 
> The frame skipping test still shows 60fps for some reason after I have overclocked it. How can I change that?


Overclock you monitor to 96hz









But seriously, it's probably your browser, switch to mozilla if you aren't using that already, in chrome it says 48fps or something and a error message for chrome saying something about vsync. Half 96=48 so something funky with chrome for that test.


----------



## Testier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Overclock you monitor to 96hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, it's probably your browser, switch to mozilla if you aren't using that already, in chrome it says 48fps or something and a error message for chrome saying something about vsync. Half 96=48 so something funky with chrome for that test.


I OC it to 120hz..... Catalyst shows 120hz, so does windows. In TF2, I had Vsync on and after report 119ish FPS most of the the time. I was using chrome since it had some issue in waterfox. But, in that case, I think it is actual stable at 120hz.


----------



## Jyve

I had no issues with chrome and the refresh rate test.


----------



## DiceAir

So looks like my screen is a no overclocker. I get flickering anything above 60Hz. had it on 95Hz on my GTX570sli but on 60hz feel smoother for me


----------



## Spartan F8

This thread could be relevant to the Qnix having a new PCB that frame skips but it has not been proven yet and could just be the users computer.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1440780/qx2710-frame-skipping


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> You have the Tempered glass version the same as mine.


Hmmm. This is the one I purchased here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206204954?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 and no where does it mention the fact that it has glass. If I would have known that I would have bought one without glass. The ghost image gets annoying.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> Hmmm. This is the one I purchased here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321206204954?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 and no where does it mention the fact that it has glass. If I would have known that I would have bought one without glass. The ghost image gets annoying.


They have sent you the wrong one mate.......they do Matte....Glossy and Tempered glass......my glass looks great apart from all the dead pixels underneath.


----------



## Testier

I think I got some tearing playing warframe(white line in the middle of the screen) rarely. But, I will keep it since apparently 120hz is quite smooth. Might be just an anomaly.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This thread could be relevant to the Qnix having a new PCB that frame skips but it has not been proven yet and could just be the users computer.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1440780/qx2710-frame-skipping


Never heard of any QNIX's skipping frames.


----------



## ya mother

Got some burn in at the top of my screen after overclocking to 96hz.....it's the firefox top bar.....how do you stop this?......does this only happen when you overclock?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Got some burn in at the top of my screen after overclocking to 96hz.....it's the firefox top bar.....how do you stop this?......does this only happen when you overclock?


Only overclock when playing games is the best way to prevent burn-in. Don't overclock if all you're doing is office work or Internet browsing.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Never heard of any QNIX's skipping frames.


It seems to happen for the multi-input Qnix's, but the person who had 120Hz on multi-inputs never did the test when I requested it, so I'm not considering that valid anymore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Got some burn in at the top of my screen after overclocking to 96hz.....it's the firefox top bar.....how do you stop this?......does this only happen when you overclock?


It's a common occurrence when overclocking. I leave my 120Hz on 24/7, but my monitor also shuts off after a few minutes of idle time, so the burn-in doesn't stay unless I'm working on research papers for hours at a time.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> that one says 10-23 inches but I also think it might be the one in the OP ad the weight it says is more than enough for these monitors, so should work fine.
> 
> if you want to pm me your email or some throw away email if you don't want advertisements from them (I use an email for all my online shopping / mailing lists etc) I can send out that coupon and see if it works. If not no biggie.


Thanks, PM'd you.

I'm interested in these claims that the Qnix may have a new unoverclockable PCB because I'm having a hard time getting a reputable seller to do me a good deal on one of these monitors at the moment so if it can't be OC'd then I'll probably just give up and opt for a cheaper alternative.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It seems to happen for the multi-input Qnix's, but the person who had 120Hz on multi-inputs never did the test when I requested it, so I'm not considering that valid anymore.
> It's a common occurrence when overclocking. I leave my 120Hz on 24/7, but my monitor also shuts off after a few minutes of idle time, so the burn-in doesn't stay unless I'm working on research papers for hours at a time.


I went to pick up a chinese meal and left my browser on for around 30 minutes.....so wont be doing that again.......will still have another chinese next week tho.









Its gone now......think my dreamscene has got rid of it.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I went to pick up a chinese meal and left my browser on for around 30 minutes.....so wont be doing that again.......will still have another chinese next week tho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its gone now......think my dreamscene has got rid of it.


I see it all the time, but it doesn't show up when I'm playing games or watching movies/shows, so it doesn't bother me. Just set your Windows to automatically shut off your monitor after 5 mins, so the burn-in doesn't occur as much.


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I went to pick up a chinese meal and left my browser on for around 30 minutes.....so wont be doing that again.......will still have another chinese next week tho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its gone now......think my dreamscene has got rid of it.


I have left my monitor on since I got it a few days ago and I have not had any burn in at all


----------



## LazarusIV

Hey guys, I'll be ordering this qnix monitor later this week along with an R9 290. I'm wondering what DVI cable the monitor uses. I haven't had a new monitor for a long time so I'm not quite sure what's normal now. The R9 290 uses dual link DVI-D, does the monitor also use dual link DVI-D? Is that basically the norm now for any monitor? Will this cable work for me? Thanks everyone for the help, I'll put up pictures as soon as I get the new stuff!


----------



## rcoolb2002

I just noticed the burn in as well. from my browsers upper bar.

Stable @ 120 hz though


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> I have left my monitor on since I got it a few days ago and I have not had any burn in at all


It's at 120Hz? Leave it on with Microsoft Word for 30mins~1h and you will see the burn-in on grayish backgrounds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Hey guys, I'll be ordering this qnix monitor later this week along with an R9 290. I'm wondering what DVI cable the monitor uses. I haven't had a new monitor for a long time so I'm not quite sure what's normal now. The R9 290 uses dual link DVI-D, does the monitor also use dual link DVI-D? Is that basically the norm now for any monitor? Will this cable work for me? Thanks everyone for the help, I'll put up pictures as soon as I get the new stuff!


Most people get good results with the DL-DVI cable that they provide with the monitor. Your results will vary, but you should try with the stock cable first before buying one.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It's at 120Hz? Leave it on with Microsoft Word for 30mins~1h and you will see the burn-in on grayish backgrounds.


hmm.... I run 110hz and I have never seen any burn in....


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Most people get good results with the DL-DVI cable that they provide with the monitor. Your results will vary, but you should try with the stock cable first before buying one.


Excellent, I will do that. Thanks!


----------



## mboner1

Alright, so i just updated graphics driver to 13.11 beta 9.2 and re applied the overclock, but when i moved windows to the edge f the screen it would make the whole screen jump around, not flicker but jump and like vibrate. I went into amd ccc and ticked the box that says reduce dvi frequency and that solved it, thought it might help some people. I don't think reduce dvi frequency will have any adverse affects??


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Alright, so i just updated graphics driver to 13.11 beta 9.2 and re applied the overclock, but when i moved windows to the edge f the screen it would make the whole screen jump around, not flicker but jump and like vibrate. I went into amd ccc and ticked the box that says reduce dvi frequency and that solved it, thought it might help some people. I don't think reduce dvi frequency will have any adverse affects??


my gaming computer is down until wednesday or so but I will also test with those new drivers unless something else comes out by then. To me this is odd, since doesn't the frequency need to be atleast a certain level to display a certain refresh?


----------



## DiceAir

So I figured out my issue might be related to the AMD/ATI patcher that I need to use to be able to overclock


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> my gaming computer is down until wednesday or so but I will also test with those new drivers unless something else comes out by then. To me this is odd, since doesn't the frequency need to be atleast a certain level to display a certain refresh?


Yeah, i'm not sure, all i know is without that box ticked i was like slamming the browser to the right side like so it would take up half the screen, and everything would judder, with the box ticked it doesn't do it anymore, was the first thing i tried as well, re ran the overclock test in the o.p and verified 96fps. No idea why the new driver caused it or what the reduce dvi frequency does other than assuming it lowers the timings. It says it's for high resolutions so yeah, would be good if you check it out as well.. Especially if you have the same issue after updating your drivers.


----------



## Ryder92

@HardwareDecoder do you still have those 5$ off coupons?


----------



## Kokin

No problems with 13.11 beta9.2. Only played BF3 and League of Legends though. Browsing and videos are pretty good.


----------



## AnnoyinDemon

I remember my brother had the Qnix screen and I broke it







Was a good screen


----------



## GiveMeHope

Hey guys,

I wondered if there's a way to ensure that I'll be getting a display with zero dead/stuck pixels? I'd be happy to pay a little bit more, but I really want to be absolutely sure that there is no dead/stuck pixels there. Are there any sellers that provide this guarantee?

Thanks.


----------



## Ryder92

Yea, anyone on Ebay that offers *perfect pixel* models, youll need to pay anywhere from 20-40$ extra for that gaurantee. If you are really interested take a look at the first page of the thread and check out who bought their monitors from which seller and see the issues they got (ie, if they bought a perfect pixel, did it come with no issues, backlight bleed, etc). Honestly I just took my chances and judging by the list so did many others and my monitor is in mint condition, minor backlight bleed which was fixable, but no dead or stuck pixels. I bought from Green-sum on ebay, I know dream-seller also offers perfect pixel models as well.


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I wondered if there's a way to ensure that I'll be getting a display with zero dead/stuck pixels? I'd be happy to pay a little bit more, but I really want to be absolutely sure that there is no dead/stuck pixels there. Are there any sellers that provide this guarantee?
> 
> Thanks.


One thing to remember is that these panels are going to be grade "A" or "A-" panels. That means that regardless of dead/stuck pixels there could be (and will, thats why their not A+ panels) be other defects. These defects could be so mild that the average joe would not notice them to severe. An example of a defect would be sever banding, dark blotches, uneven color, ect. If you are extremely picky and notice any little detail, then the korean monitors are not for you. If you don't notice anything, then my advise is *don't go looking for it*. I don't understand why people go through the trouble of looking for dead/stick pixels. If you don't notice it during normal use, then you most likely will never notice it. On the other hand, if you go out of the way to find a defect, you will notice it constantly. Remember, ignorance is bliss







.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryder92*
> 
> Yea, anyone on Ebay that offers *perfect pixel* models, youll need to pay anywhere from 20-40$ extra for that gaurantee. If you are really interested take a look at the first page of the thread and check out who bought their monitors from which seller and see the issues they got (ie, if they bought a perfect pixel, did it come with no issues, backlight bleed, etc). Honestly I just took my chances and judging by the list so did many others and my monitor is in mint condition, minor backlight bleed which was fixable, but no dead or stuck pixels. I bought from Green-sum on ebay, I know dream-seller also offers perfect pixel models as well.


Yeah, but on pixelperfect models I still see a policy about dead/stuck pixels on their page, so I guess that means there's a possibility that they won't be **perfect**, correct?


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> One thing to remember is that these panels are going to be grade "A" or "A-" panels. That means that regardless of dead/stuck pixels there could be (and will, thats why their not A+ panels) be other defects. These defects could be so mild that the average joe would not notice them to severe. An example of a defect would be sever banding, dark blotches, uneven color, ect. If you are extremely picky and notice any little detail, then the korean monitors are not for you. If you don't notice anything, then my advise is *don't go looking for it*. I don't understand why people go through the trouble of looking for dead/stick pixels. If you don't notice it during normal use, then you most likely will never notice it. On the other hand, if you go out of the way to find a defect, you will notice it constantly. Remember, ignorance is bliss
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I understand and I'm sensitive about issues on display, but at the same time I want IPS/PLS and 120 Hz which means Korean monitors are the only option.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryder92*
> 
> @HardwareDecoder do you still have those 5$ off coupons?


Yeah man pm me an email


----------



## Ryder92

It varies buyer to buyer honestly, just make sure to read their policies. These buyers guarantee zero dead pixels http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/130922075493?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7b905565 , http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649 , but the price tag matches. Where as a buyer like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321237632896?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acb414780 states ""Perfect Pixel] 27" Matte Qnix QX2710 LED Monitor This monitor may have up to 1 x Dead pixel."" . Truthfully its alot about what you want to pay and the product you are willing to accept. I consider myself very unlucky and took my chances anyway with buying a non perfect pixel model and mine happens to be pixel perfect. Honestly when it comes down to it you're talking about millions of pixels and one or two isnt a huge deal. Like GiveMeHope said, these are not A+ panel, they are samsung and apple cinema display rejects, this doesent mean they are not an incredible value and completely worth your time/money. But if you are in the business of perfection, these probably arent the monitors for you.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Pixel perfect is basically a scam. Most "pixel perfect" listings still allow a certain number of dead pixels. So it is pretty bogus and the ones that really offer 0 charge $50-100 more.

I had bought a "pixel perfect" from accessorieswhole originally and it had a dead pixel I made them pay for return shipping since it wasn't what I paid for. The amount of effort I had to expend to make that happen was pretty ridiculous.

It really aggravated me when they kept saying it's dust clean it with a cloth..... lol


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Pixel perfect is basically a scam. Most "pixel perfect" listings still allow a certain number of dead pixels. So it is pretty bogus and the ones that really offer 0 charge $50-100 more.
> 
> I had bought a "pixel perfect" from accessorieswhole originally and it had a dead pixel I made them pay for return shipping since it wasn't what I paid for. The amount of effort I had to expend to make that happen was pretty ridiculous.
> 
> It really aggravated me when they kept saying it's dust clean it with a cloth..... lol


Agreed, id say the majority of these (90% or more) are indeed perfect pixel. I have had three of these korean monitors over the last couple years, and all had no dead or stuck pixels even though I bought the "non perfect pixel" ones.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> Agreed, id say the majority of these (90% or more) are indeed perfect pixel. I have had three of these korean monitors over the last couple years, and all had no dead or stuck pixels even though I bought the "non perfect pixel" ones.


Heh... you are doing better than me I've had three koreans now including the one i'm keeping long term now.

Two of them showed up pixel perfect, atleast I think they did..... All developed atleast 1-2 dead pixels eventually.

This one actually has a "bright pixel" You cannot see it even on dark backgrounds unless you really try and are sitting really close, so I don't really give a crap.

Also both qnix I have had only oc to 110hz even trying different wires, but 110hz is perfectly fine.

The glow/backlight bleed (not sure which one my monitor has) is much much more annoying.


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Heh... you are doing better than me I've had three koreans now including the one i'm keeping long term now.
> 
> Two of them showed up pixel perfect, atleast I think they did..... All developed atleast 1-2 dead pixels eventually.
> 
> This one actually has a "bright pixel" You cannot see it even on dark backgrounds unless you really try and are sitting really close, so I don't really give a crap.
> 
> Also both qnix I have had only oc to 110hz even trying different wires, but 110hz is perfectly fine.
> 
> The glow/backlight bleed (not sure which one my monitor has) is much much more annoying.


Interestingly, the qnix I have went all the way to 130hz without any problems. I didnt want to go further in fear of damaging the PCB. I keep it at 120hz and its been on since the day I got it without a hiccup.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> Interestingly, the qnix I have went all the way to 130hz without any problems. I didnt want to go further in fear of damaging the PCB. I keep it at 120hz and its been on since the day I got it without a hiccup.


Yeah it could even be my video cards, although I have tried with both my 7950's as the one connected to the qnix still can only do like 117 or something max so I just keep it at 110.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> Interestingly, the qnix I have went all the way to 130hz without any problems. I didnt want to go further in fear of damaging the PCB. I keep it at 120hz and its been on since the day I got it without a hiccup.


How old is your QNIX monitor? I'm interested on buying 1 soon...


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> How old is your QNIX monitor? I'm interested on buying 1 soon...


I have had it for about 5 days now.


----------



## geogga

I'm thinking bout buying 2 or maybe 3 Qnix and testing out them all for BLB and 120hz capability. The place I'll be ordering from is in my country and allows refunds and RMAs.


----------



## DiceAir

Anyone iwht amd having issues when you have the power option on windows to automatically switch off screen then you can't resume it? I've overclocked to 96Hz but this morning when I came to my pc the power on screen was flickering and moving the mouse or pressing buttons for like 2 min didn't do anything had to press reset on my pc. maybe it's a problem with AMD cards.

I tried 96hz again last night and was running very nice on Battlefield 4, Bioshosck infinite and Far cry 3. running R9-280x crossfire so for now I will disable that feature in windows as 96hz isn't that high anyway so will test for the rest of the week to see if it's solved. but if anyone can confirm this or give me a workaround I will appreciate it.

I was also wondering if it could be my CPU not getting enough voltages making my pc unstable but wouldn't that make my pc bluescreen or so. my CPU is at 1.35V and has been running like that since whenever. Everything was running fine on my old GTX570sli. I also have intle c1e enabled in bios maybe I should disable it and also see but for now I think until someone can verify that they having the same issue and tell me what to do I can just wait and see if it will happen again. BTW I fixed my previous issue by just swapping the cards around.


----------



## bloodr0se

Finally clicked the Buy button on a Qnix last night and it's on it's way to me now. It seems to be moving quite quickly so I should hopefully have it either tomorrow or on Wednesday at the latest.

Excited yet slightly terrified at the same time.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Pixel perfect is basically a scam. Most "pixel perfect" listings still allow a certain number of dead pixels. So it is pretty bogus and the ones that really offer 0 charge $50-100 more.
> 
> I had bought a "pixel perfect" from accessorieswhole originally and it had a dead pixel I made them pay for return shipping since it wasn't what I paid for. The amount of effort I had to expend to make that happen was pretty ridiculous.
> 
> It really aggravated me when they kept saying it's dust clean it with a cloth..... lol


I imagine this is probably true. I read a post on another forum this morning where someone had been through a similar thing. The seller (I think it was AW actually) sent them a long ebay message detailing how these displays are usually meant for use in Game Centres and PC Bang where a small number of dead pixels doesn't really matter and that the manufacturers don't actually consider these things to be faulty unless they have over 10 dead pixels.

That's all well and good but if that's the case then they shouldn't really be selling 'pixel perfect' monitors. There's going to be a difference in expectations between a guy who can pick up these things for $150-200 in a Pusan market and someone who has paid $300 + delivery + customs fees to have it shipped halfway across the planet.


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> I imagine this is probably true. I read a post on another forum this morning where someone had been through a similar thing. The seller (I think it was AW actually) sent them a long ebay message detailing how these displays are usually meant for use in Game Centres and PC Bang where a small number of dead pixels doesn't really matter and that the manufacturers don't actually consider these things to be faulty unless they have over 10 dead pixels.
> 
> That's all well and good but if that's the case then they shouldn't really be selling 'pixel perfect' monitors. There's going to be a difference in expectations between a guy who can pick up these things for $150-200 in a Pusan market and someone who has paid $300 + delivery + customs fees to have it shipped halfway across the planet.


These monitors actually sell in Korea for around $250 USD. So the price they sell them for is pretty good especially when you consider that fact that you can order one on a monday and get it the next day


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> These monitors actually sell in Korea for around $250 USD. So the price they sell them for is pretty good especially when you consider that fact that you can order one on a monday and get it the next day


Oh I'm not saying they don't present a bargain to Westerners at all, they definitely do and we wouldn't be here if they didn't. I actually didn't know these things existed before last week otherwise I would have just bought one the last time I was in Korea myself and brought it back with me. The level of retail customer service you actually get in person over there is phenomenal.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> For those who bought the glossy QX2710, if you look at the screen when its off you will notice it looks "cloudy". Well I was doing some investigating and there is actually a sheet of glass in front of the actual panel. This may also apply to the matte version. An easy test to do without taking apart the monitor is to just tap on the front of it while the monitor is on. If there is not a temporary flash, then there is glass in front of it. Also it will have a distinct sound. I plan to remove the glass as I dont like the look of it when its off.


Hey, just read this and was wondering what it means. Any reason for the glass to be there, does it have any effect on the screen itself?


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey, just read this and was wondering what it means. Any reason for the glass to be there, does it have any effect on the screen itself?


It is the Tempered Glass version Makes the colours look more vibrant etc......downside is reflections from the glass can be bad if you have light behind you etc.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> It is the Tempered Glass version Makes the colours look more vibrant etc......downside is reflections from the glass can be bad if you have light behind you etc.


So you're saying the tempered glass version is more vibrant than the glossy? Or are they the same?
I don't like matte (anti glare coating...) so I went for the glossy, I have no lights that disturbs the screen.
But he seemed to indicate that there was an extra layer of glass on top of the glossy screen?


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> So you're saying the tempered glass version is more vibrant than the glossy? Or are they the same?
> I don't like matte (anti glare coating...) so I went for the glossy, I have no lights that disturbs the screen.
> But he seemed to indicate that there was an extra layer of glass on top of the glossy screen?


Well funny you should say that but some companys sell the tempered glass with a glossy panel underneath the glass, and some with a matte panel underneath according to this thread, and the response i got from a company who sells them on ebay (they told me it was matte underneath but a different company told a guy on here his was glossy?)....i cant comment on whether the Tempered is more vibrant than the Glossy just that it is more vibrant then the matte.....i have a 27" samsung glossy and a qnix tempered glass and tbh i cant really see which is better....i just like the idea that the glass is easier to clean and wont scratch as easy as a glossy panel......but then theres the dust problem with the tempered glass potentially getting behind the glass.


----------



## Harry604

What over clocks better

The one input dual dvi or with display port


----------



## YouSirName

My QNIX overclocks to 110hz, however when I overclock it I get a faint buzzing noise. Any solution to reduce/remove the buzzing?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Well funny you should say that but some companys sell the tempered glass with a glossy panel underneath the glass, and some with a matte panel underneath according to this thread, and the response i got from a company who sells them on ebay (they told me it was matte underneath but a different company told a guy on here his was glossy?)....i cant comment on whether the Tempered is more vibrant than the Glossy just that it is more vibrant then the matte.....i have a 27" samsung glossy and a qnix tempered glass and tbh i cant really see which is better....i just like the idea that the glass is easier to clean and wont scratch as easy as a glossy panel......but then theres the dust problem with the tempered glass potentially getting behind the glass.


Yeah i read that, that's why I went with the glossy one.
Mine's behaving pretty well, OC's to 110hz stable, in game as well, no dead pixels, but suffers from a little BLB. But this is all normal.
I was interested in what was said about the glass plate over the glossy screen because I was contemplating opening it up to see if I can fix the BLB, but if there is another sheet of glass over the screen then I am worried that I'll mess something up


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Yeah i read that, that's why I went with the glossy one.
> Mine's behaving pretty well, OC's to 110hz stable, in game as well, no dead pixels, but suffers from a little BLB. But this is all normal.
> I was interested in what was said about the glass plate over the glossy screen because I was contemplating opening it up to see if I can fix the BLB, but if there is another sheet of glass over the screen then I am worried that I'll mess something up


No you would see the glass if it was tempered.....its constructed a bit differently to a none glass one....theres 2 metal bars either side that steady the glass in place underneath the bezel held in by 2 screws on each of them (i have photos if anyones interested?) and i dont have that much bleed tbh as i think the glass pushes onto the actual panel and adds pressure to the screen just like the tape or paper fix.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> No you would see the glass if it was tempered.....its constructed a bit differently to a none glass one....theres 2 metal bars either side that steady the glass in place underneath the bezel held in by 2 screws on each of them (i have photos if anyones interested?) and i dont have that much bleed tbh as i think the glass pushes onto the actual panel and adds pressure to the screen just like the tape or paper fix.


Any info you might have, as well as pictures, would be much appreciated








So you found it was easy to open?


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Any info you might have, as well as pictures, would be much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you found it was easy to open?


Basically i followed the youtube video on how to open up the qnix at the start of this thread.....then once i got the bezel off you can see the 2 metal bars left and right.....i unscrewed these just to gain access to the glass panel as you have to use a stanley blade or very thin knife to cut through the gluey silicone type substance that holds the glass onto the metal frame.







Once you have cut along the glue it's just a case of carefully lifting up the glass........the glue is still very sticky so it reseals itself upon re-attaching it back to the frame which is good as re glueing it could have become a pain to do not to mention over spillage.

Hope this helps anyone with a Tempered glass who might want to remove dust etc.


----------



## theilya

I was wondering if anyone can advise me:

I use to have 660ti SLI and ran at 120hz no problem
Switched to 280x CF and ran at 120hz no problem
Switched to 780 SLI and I'm getting 1-2 small flicker lines at 120hz, but everything is fine at 115hz.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

So the bottom line... it's alright to purchase a tempered glass / glossy version? I'm still getting more info regarding this monitor before i purchase.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> So the bottom line... it's alright to purchase a tempered glass / glossy version? I'm still getting more info regarding this monitor before i purchase.


yeah took me 2 weeks to make my mind up......basically after my glass fronted Hazro 2560x1440 60hz glass fell off, i missed the resolution after i went to a samsung 27" 1920x1080 120hz....but loved the 120hz. of the sammy.

So these just look like the Hazros that can overclock to 120hz, but for half the price.

For the money theres nothing out there that even comes close to these Montiors........ some of you might be thinking "yeah but you got 14 dead pixels on yours" and yes that has soured it a bit for me as it has to go back to Korea, which leaves me without a Monitor for around 2 weeks.....but if i get another one and it's near perfect it will be well worth it imo.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> yeah took me 2 weeks to make my mind up......basically after my glass fronted Hazro 2560x1440 60hz glass fell off, i missed the resolution after i went to a samsung 27" 1920x1080 120hz....but loved the 120hz. of the sammy.
> 
> So these just look like the Hazros that can overclock to 120hz, but for half the price.
> 
> For the money theres nothing out there that even comes close to these Montiors........ some of you might be thinking "yeah but you got 14 dead pixels on yours" and yes that has soured it a bit for me as it has to go back to Korea, which leaves me without a Monitor for around 2 weeks.....but if i get another one and it's near perfect it will be well worth it imo.


No doubt. I literally went through 4 monitors in a month before buying this one and lots more before that, never returned them, just sold them off at a loss because i wasn't happy with them. In a worse case scenario If this one broke down tomorrow (please don't) lol , i would buy another 1 instantly, and if that one broke down i would buy another one. The way i look at it is if i'm getting 3+ months from each monitor i'm getting my moneys worth. They really are fantastic monitors, i have had some expensive ones in the past and they don't compare.


----------



## tennisski

First time poster, recently joined, hello all, and thanks everyone for all the great info on this epic thread!!

I purchased two of these from Amazon (sold by "Bizaroo"), and I could not be happier with them. Got both of them mounted on my dual monitor stand, and powered them on. Using 2 EVGA GTX670-FTW's in SLI, and these work just fine to drive both of these monitors. Best thing? ZERO dead pixels on either monitor, and ZERO back-light bleed on either monitor. I am totally stoked and feel very lucky that I didn't have any of these issues. Also, did I mention how beautiful these things are? Wow, I've had two 20" monitors for a while now, and moving to these things just blew me away -- crisp details everywhere, beautiful, vibrant colors. I just can't hardly get over how great they are.

If you're on the fence about buying these things, I'd recommend them whole-heartedly. I realize that I may have gotten very lucky to get two monitors with no problems like I did, but I am very happy with my purchase.

Next thing I'll work on is figuring out the OC'ing of these and try to get them at least up to 96Hz, and if I'm lucky, up to 120Hz!!!


----------



## xGHOSTx

How is the black color in the "tempered glass" version? I read a post from NCX that those tempered glass panels can display grayish blacks. While they are different from the "glossy" version which are deeper blacks.


----------



## DiceAir

Further on narrowed my problem. GuesAMD has to release abetter driver for crossfire R9-280x cause anything above 330mhz pixel clock my screen is having this double image that scans across the monitor.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tennisski*
> 
> Next thing I'll work on is figuring out the OC'ing of these and try to get them at least up to 96Hz, and if I'm lucky, up to 120Hz!!!


click on "Nvidia control panel" and go to "change resolution" click on the customise tab then a box will open up....click on the "create custom resolution" then set the refresh rate from 60hz up to 96hz using the up and down arrows and click test and if ok choose apply and jobs done.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGHOSTx*
> 
> How is the black color in the "tempered glass" version? I read a post from NCX that those tempered glass panels can display grayish blacks. While they are different from the "glossy" version which are deeper blacks.


No issues here with tempered glass and glossy. I have literally no backlight bleed either tho so that probably helps with perceived black levels. Blacks look awesome like they should on a pls panel ie; better than ips.


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGHOSTx*
> 
> How is the black color in the "tempered glass" version? I read a post from NCX that those tempered glass panels can display grayish blacks. While they are different from the "glossy" version which are deeper blacks.


When the monitor is off, it looks like a cloudy gray. If you mean while its on, then in theory it could have worse blacks then the non tempered glass version because just like reflecting light from the front, the glass will also reflect light from the back side facing the screen.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> When the monitor is off, it looks like a cloudy gray. If you mean while its on, then in theory it could have worse blacks then the non tempered glass version because just like reflecting light from the front, the glass will also reflect light from the back side facing the screen.


My tempered glass qnix has much better black levels than my previous matte asus pb278q. I think the tempered glass helps with black levels personally.


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> My tempered glass qnix has much better black levels than my previous matte asus pb278q. I think the tempered glass helps with black levels personally.


AG coatings are known to cause the same effect. Light bounces off the back of the AG and creates a "halo" effect.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Just placed an order for Qnix QX2710 PP from excellentcastle, who in the email guaranteed no BLB and dead/stuck pixel issues.

Should arrive within the next few days.


----------



## nm10721

Hi,

just joined this forum. I bought a Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II from Ebay Seller *storewithstory* and its all mainly positive, good comms, £187.32 delivered to the U.K and only £17.37 in duties paid meaning £204.69 all in which is pretty immense. Only slight problem is I have one red pixel which I presume means its stuck and not dead. I know this is within the tolerance levels (he says tolerance of 5 in the auction) so I can't and wont complain tbh, just looking for some tips on how to get rid of it and if it might just go away on its own. I guess in time I know I'll not give a sh** about it, it's just cause it's all new and shiny that it's a bit annoying









Are these flashy videos all over You Tube and elsewhere actually worth persisting with??. I've also tried applying thumbnail/massagging pressure, but it's still stubbornly present.

Any tips would be appreciated!!


----------



## geogga

Massaging is for BLB, not for pixels. Dead/stuck/bright pixels can't be fixed I'm pretty sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Just placed an order for Qnix QX2710 PP from excellentcastle, who in the email guaranteed no BLB and dead/stuck pixel issues.
> 
> Should arrive within the next few days.


Guaranteed no BLB and dead pixels?
BS.


----------



## iplaybeats

i just send an order for the x star. anyone know of a duel monitor mount? I have a glass table so I doubt clamps will work for me. On-desk stands and wall mounts seem to be the best option.


----------



## Beatwolf

So this is the stand that´s linked to in the first post right, which people seem to like? What do i need to do once I get it, disassemble anything from the monitor ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003L11FUY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1EPTO47FZ4KN6


----------



## killswitchh

I Got my X-star a while ago and I've never OCed a monitor. Is there a thread dedicated to this? Will I see a difference in bf4?

Thanks guys! Can't seem to find the FAQ


----------



## digitalforce

Kill: The FAQ is on the the first post (Page 1)

So.. I currently have a Catleap Q270 @ 60hz. Has anyone have any comparison going from that monitor to a Qnix or X-Star? I really would just like 100-120hz with the same amazing picture quality (especially blacks) as my Catleap. Is it all just "luck of the draw" or is there a better website or seller that I can count on?

Thank you in advance.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killswitchh*
> 
> I Got my X-star a while ago and I've never OCed a monitor. Is there a thread dedicated to this? Will I see a difference in bf4?
> 
> Thanks guys! Can't seem to find the FAQ


You will see a big difference in response time..It reacts so much quicker.I use mine for BF4 and i couldn't ever imagine playing at 60hz again..


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> What over clocks better
> 
> The one input dual dvi or with display port


Dual Link DVI is the only one that overclocks without frame skip. The ones with multi-input will most likely frame skip and not OC well at all.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killswitchh*
> 
> I Got my X-star a while ago and I've never OCed a monitor. Is there a thread dedicated to this? Will I see a difference in bf4?
> 
> Thanks guys! Can't seem to find the FAQ


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So this is the stand that´s linked to in the first post right, which people seem to like? What do i need to do once I get it, disassemble anything from the monitor ?
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003L11FUY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1EPTO47FZ4KN6


Yes, you'll need to open the monitor and remove the built-in part of the stand. Removing it is easy but opening the monitor seems like a minefield because the cables are short and the plastic casing isn't the best quality. There are videos on Youtube if you still want to try though.

Tbh, the only reason I would consider it is if the included stand turns out to be completely unusable.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tennisski*
> 
> First time poster, recently joined, hello all, and thanks everyone for all the great info on this epic thread!!
> 
> I purchased two of these from Amazon (sold by "Bizaroo"), and I could not be happier with them. Got both of them mounted on my dual monitor stand, and powered them on. Using 2 EVGA GTX670-FTW's in SLI, and these work just fine to drive both of these monitors. Best thing? ZERO dead pixels on either monitor, and ZERO back-light bleed on either monitor. I am totally stoked and feel very lucky that I didn't have any of these issues. Also, did I mention how beautiful these things are? Wow, I've had two 20" monitors for a while now, and moving to these things just blew me away -- crisp details everywhere, beautiful, vibrant colors. I just can't hardly get over how great they are.
> 
> If you're on the fence about buying these things, I'd recommend them whole-heartedly. I realize that I may have gotten very lucky to get two monitors with no problems like I did, but I am very happy with my purchase.
> 
> Next thing I'll work on is figuring out the OC'ing of these and try to get them at least up to 96Hz, and if I'm lucky, up to 120Hz!!!


Bought mine from same as you. Ordered matte but was sent glossy, but since there are 0 dead pix so far and it ocs to 120 just fine I'm not gonna mess with sending it back. Shipped on a monday and was here on wednesday.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geogga*
> 
> Guaranteed no BLB and dead pixels?
> BS.


That's what they said. I'm sure it's subjective so it probably meant no serious BLB. Anyway we'll know soon!


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Yes, you'll need to open the monitor and remove the built-in part of the stand. Removing it is easy but opening the monitor seems like a minefield because the cables are short and the plastic casing isn't the best quality. There are videos on Youtube if you still want to try though.
> 
> Tbh, the only reason I would consider it is if the included stand turns out to be completely unusable.


Hmm might reconsider it then.. would like a proper stand but don´t wanna break anything.


----------



## flv1333

Well time to Give a bit of an update(bit... that's an understatement lol). Here is the Qnix Adventure I had. Happy reading, I'll be posting Pix in a bit... that is if I'm not lazy and actually clean off my mess of a desk tonight.









On the 24th of Oct I ordered the Qnix QX2710 with Red-Cap for 329,99USD (246,13EUR) which included shipping Via Fedex. The Following morning I received an email with the tracking number. According to Fedex the delivery date was to be the 30th. The long wait began.

On the 29th I got a phone call from Fedex asking if I was available to take the package as they where able to deliver early. I wasn't...







They where however nice enough to have the package re-routed to my office for the next day.

So the 30th finally arrives! as does Fedex with my monitor. Prior to letting the driver go I made sure to check the box for scratches dings and dents.... nothing. Now for the Packaging of the Box... well, it had some delivery labels.... and a handle... I wasn't at all impressed with the way it was sent. No sort of extra protection around the box at all, just some tape to keep the box top from opening. I am glad that Fedex was nice to the package for a change.

The first thing I had to check was the screen (Hopefully no cracks!) .... turned out that... it had none! time to breathe a little easy, but just a little. The rest of the unpack was quite uneventful, Power cable, a very flimsy DVI cable, a power brick and ... instructions? LOL tossed those in the bin.









Now for the setup. I have a Desktop clamp dual monitor Holder thingy (Yeah that's right, thingy) which had a Benq XL2420t 120hz and Benq... no idea but its a nice monitor.. connected. I took the Power and DVI cables from the 2420 and stood the Qnix Right in front. First thought... Damn that's big... So I power the thing up and am greeted with a crisp screen and PIXELS....LOTS AND LOTS OF PIXELS!!!!







Windows 8 automatically changed all the setting accordingly. I was (and still am) amazed at the clarity, color and... well.... PIXELS!!!









Ahh that brings me to my next point, Pixels.... I remembered seeing a Pixel test in the OP. Loaded the site and made it full screen, I must have cycled back and fourth for a good 15 minutes. Not a single dead or stuck pixel. YES!







Back light bleed was there but no that bad to warrant the use of the tape mod.

I immediately booted up BF4 and fraps to see the kind of FPS I'm getting.... hmm something is off everything is smudgy not sharp at all !!! With all the excitement of the new monitor I totally forgot to change the settings in BF4. Easy Fix. Woah! able to push 150FPS! WOW... the color, the sharpness.... the .... ghosting... :-( !!60hz!! Time to OC

Thanks again to the OP for such a comprehensive collection of programs and tutorials, Patched my driver, Downloaded and setup the CRU, not too much I thought at first... lets try 80hz.. rebooted. all OK. No skipped frames. MOAR! 96hz. ALL GOOD!







110hz AWESOME! MOAR MOAR!!!









120hz... oops









Frame skip test went though without any problem, but when I loaded BF4 I had horizontal green Pixel lines that show every once in a while... alt f4... ALT F4!! I thought I killed it, It was bad. Changed back to 110hz and rebooted. Everything back to normal. Phew. Just to be sure that I don't accidentally choose 120hz again I proceeded to erase the profile.









Now to the Vesa mount. I had a heck of a time trying to find screws which where long enough to fit but not too long. In the end I swiped the Screws from my 2420 and used washers. Perfect, Nearly. Once the Monitor hangs on the Vesa mount you notice how flimsy the plastic really is. ALOT more BLB showed in comparison to the regular desk Stand. Looks like I need to do the Tape mod after all, Ahh well, at least I can then also remove that
stupid foot.

Payment Recap: (Germany)

Qnix: 246,13€ ($329,99) From Red-Cap (Ebay)

Customs: Shipped to Germanyone by Fedex
Printed Invoice (from red-cap = $150)
33,10€ + 10€ Fedex charge

246,13€ + 43,10 = Qnix delivered to your door (Germany) for 289,23€ ($388,45)

All In All I am quite pleased with this monitor and thank everyone for providing such an thread filled with information and experiences.









Thanks for sticking with meh! Let the 1440p gaming begin!


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Hmm might reconsider it then.. would like a proper stand but don´t wanna break anything.


I'd recommend just watching one of the good Youtube videos and then just think about if it's something that you're comfortable with doing. It's the cheap plastic and poor quality assembly used for the monitors that is the problem really and it's slightly annoying that you have to disassemble the casing the reach the VESA mount. It would be helpful if they could fix that in future versions and I'm sure a lot of people wouldn't even mind paying a little more for it.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> Well time to Give a bit of an update(bit... that's an understatement lol). Here is the Qnix Adventure I had. Happy reading, I'll be posting Pix in a bit... that is if I'm not lazy and actually clean off my mess of a desk tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the 24th of Oct I ordered the Qnix QX2710 with Red-Cap for 329,99USD (246,13EUR) which included shipping Via Fedex. The Following morning I received an email with the tracking number. According to Fedex the delivery date was to be the 30th. The long wait began.


I'd heard nothing but bad things about that seller before which is why I personally avoided him but it sounds like you did OK, apart from the less than stellar packaging.

Enjoy.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Just got my monitor in last night.
Quick and probably dumb question. The power brick that came with mine has the 3 prong plug that most USA monitors and power supplies use, except that the cord it came with is a Korean 220V plug. If i were to plug in my USA 120V plug from a TV will that work? It would be nice to not have to buy a converter.


----------



## angelnieves

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Just got my monitor in last night.
> Quick and probably dumb question. The power brick that came with mine has the 3 prong plug that most USA monitors and power supplies use, except that the cord it came with is a Korean 220V plug. If i were to plug in my USA 120V plug from a TV will that work? It would be nice to not have to buy a converter.


Yes, that would work fine.


----------



## Wakalakaz

thanks for the quick reply, that's a sigh of relief. I have to wait for my computer parts to come in tomo. Sold my old computer on craigslist and ordered new parts including a 770 so can actually get some decent frames on this new monitor : ).


----------



## angelnieves

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> thanks for the quick reply, that's a sigh of relief. I have to wait for my computer parts to come in tomo. Sold my old computer on craigslist and ordered new parts including a 770 so can actually get some decent frames on this new monitor : ).


No problem! Enjoy your new setup!


----------



## skuko

mine arrived today at last, it was stuck in customs for a couple of days.

no dead pixels (checked with eizo monitor test), a little bleed on the center to bottom right (can live with that for the time being). overclocked to 96Hz out of the box (gtx 680), loving it so far.

bought from red-cap. 329.99 USD = ~250 EUR, customs fees to slovakia = 50 EUR + 14 EUR to fedex to clear it for me.

one thing that bothers me a little is the colors.


qnix using 96Hz icc profile from the first post on the left (even though i tried more icc profiles, can't seem to see any difference with my eyes) on the left, dell u2412m on the right. (standard icc profile from tftcentral).

you can clearly see that the dell has a lot colder colors and i like them like that, is there any way to set the qnix up like that? i tried to tinker witht he nvidia control panel to no avail so far.

nevermind those lines on the dell, it's PWM showing up on my phone camera.

edit: hmm on the picture, the qnix colors look way better than the dell lolz.


----------



## Beatwolf

I guess you could try to go through a lot more icc profiles?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> mine arrived today at last, it was stuck in customs for a couple of days.
> 
> no dead pixels (checked with eizo monitor test), a little bleed on the center to bottom right (can live with that for the time being). overclocked to 96Hz out of the box (gtx 680), loving it so far.
> 
> bought from red-cap. 329.99 USD = ~250 EUR, customs fees to slovakia = 50 EUR + 14 EUR to fedex to clear it for me.
> 
> one thing that bothers me a little is the colors.
> 
> 
> qnix using 96Hz icc profile from the first post on the left (even though i tried more icc profiles, can't seem to see any difference with my eyes) on the left, dell u2412m on the right. (standard icc profile from tftcentral).
> 
> you can clearly see that the dell has a lot colder colors and i like them like that, is there any way to set the qnix up like that? i tried to tinker witht he nvidia control panel to no avail so far.
> 
> nevermind those lines on the dell, it's PWM showing up on my phone camera.
> 
> edit: hmm on the picture, the qnix colors look way better than the dell lolz.


Check out the profiles in my sig, they're quite a bit colder than many I've seen posted. My Qnix has VERY warm colors without using an icc profile


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> mine arrived today at last, it was stuck in customs for a couple of days.
> 
> no dead pixels (checked with eizo monitor test), a little bleed on the center to bottom right (can live with that for the time being). overclocked to 96Hz out of the box (gtx 680), loving it so far.
> 
> bought from red-cap. 329.99 USD = ~250 EUR, customs fees to slovakia = 50 EUR + 14 EUR to fedex to clear it for me.
> 
> one thing that bothers me a little is the colors.
> 
> 
> qnix using 96Hz icc profile from the first post on the left (even though i tried more icc profiles, can't seem to see any difference with my eyes) on the left, dell u2412m on the right. (standard icc profile from tftcentral).
> 
> you can clearly see that the dell has a lot colder colors and i like them like that, is there any way to set the qnix up like that? i tried to tinker witht he nvidia control panel to no avail so far.
> 
> nevermind those lines on the dell, it's PWM showing up on my phone camera.
> 
> edit: hmm on the picture, the qnix colors look way better than the dell lolz.


She looks so much better with a tan lol


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> you can clearly see that the dell has a lot colder colors and i like them like that, is there any way to set the qnix up like that?
> edit: hmm on the picture, the qnix colors look way better than the dell lolz.


If you have an nvidia GPU you can setup the color set manually in the NVCP. Use a website like http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ to calibrate. Also in the NVCP the color spectrum can be adjusted separately between each color type. Using this you can edit the red color brightness/gamma down a good bit. After doing so adjust the overall brightness to keep your color vibrance. Then set green slightly down a bit. This should give you pretty much identical color to an LG IPS panel variant(the cooler look). I did this when adjusting the Qnix right next to a crossover IPS panel. NVCP color setups like to stick in games better too so it was a win win.

Or you could get a pro color calibration tool(could i used the one from work and then returned it).


----------



## skuko

tried to tinker around in nvcp, i did some changes, but as far as i'd like to....but i'm starting to like the warmer colors lol


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> tried to tinker around in nvcp, i did some changes, but as far as i'd like to....but i'm starting to like the warmer colors lol


Same here. I just about went through the same thought process







Warm colors are nice.


----------



## angelnieves

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> tried to tinker around in nvcp, i did some changes, but as far as i'd like to....but i'm starting to like the warmer colors lol


yeah, your eyes end up adjusting lol


----------



## digitalforce

I currently have a Catleap Q270 that is absolutely perfect. I am a bit hesitant to get a Qnix or X-Star and have it not live up to the Catleap. I want OC but that seems hit and miss as well.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Any new things going on with these monitors? I haven't read the past 1000 posts in this thread haha. Been a little busy with school.


----------



## nm10721

Quote:


> Hi,
> 
> just joined this forum. I bought a Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II from Ebay Seller storewithstory and its all mainly positive, good comms, £187.32 delivered to the U.K and only £17.37 in duties paid meaning £204.69 all in which is pretty immense. Only slight problem is I have one red pixel which I presume means its stuck and not dead. I know this is within the tolerance levels (he says tolerance of 5 in the auction) so I can't and wont complain tbh, just looking for some tips on how to get rid of it and if it might just go away on its own. I guess in time I know I'll not give a sh** about it, it's just cause it's all new and shiny that it's a bit annoying smile.gif
> 
> Are these flashy videos all over You Tube and elsewhere actually worth persisting with??. I've also tried applying thumbnail/massagging pressure, but it's still stubbornly present.
> 
> Any tips would be appreciated!!


Can anyone help, I've attached a picture. Perhaps someone can confirm that it's definitely stuck and not dead,

thanks


----------



## JTHMfreak

I used to massage stuck pixels out on my samsung. Just have something like a microfiber cloth over your finger while you rub a circular motion, worked for me plenty of times


----------



## nm10721

thanks for the reply, did you have a look at my edited post above, I've added a picture

thanks

Neil


----------



## jincuteguy

So I'm looking for a 30" monitor 2560-1600 with PLS panel. Does anyone know if Qnix or X-star make 30" version besides those 27 ones? Any infos would be appreciated.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nm10721*
> 
> thanks for the reply, did you have a look at my edited post above, I've added a picture
> 
> thanks
> 
> Neil


If it is just a stuck pixel should come out no prob


----------



## JTHMfreak

So when gaming at 120 I get these thin blue lines sporadically, lower the hz?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTHMfreak*
> 
> So when gaming at 120 I get these thin blue lines sporadically, lower the hz?


Most likely yes. I don't own one yet...but soon.. Try 110 and update us.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTHMfreak*
> 
> So when gaming at 120 I get these thin blue lines sporadically, lower the hz?


Pretty much. Have you tried lowering your Pixel Clock Rate as much as possible in CRU? If you're still getting those blue lines, I would just drop to 105~115Hz.


----------



## jincuteguy

So out of all o fthese 27" monitors, which one come out the top? the Qnix?


----------



## Strileckifunk

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive monitor arm that can fasten to a desk for my Qnix?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strileckifunk*
> 
> Can anyone suggest an inexpensive monitor arm that can fasten to a desk for my Qnix?


These two are probably the cheapest, currently using on my secondary monitor, but these work well for the Qnix as well.

3-way desk-mount

2-way desk-mount


----------



## ya mother

Sent my qnix back yesterday and asked for a pixel perfect glossy and they havent got any in stock......so they said if i wanted a glossy to try a "Crossover" are these the same panels and do they overclock the same?

Anyone got one of these to confirm......they look identical?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120926766239&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT


----------



## ya mother

Just found a crossover thread and it seems they dont overclock....back to the drawing board.

Right what about the X-STAR with DP/DVI/HDMI.......do they overclock?....... or do i have to get just the Dual Dvi for it to overclock?


----------



## nm10721

Quote:


> If it is just a stuck pixel should come out no prob


thanks JTHMFREAK, no luck so far but I'll have another bash!


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nm10721*
> 
> thanks JTHMFREAK, no luck so far but I'll have another bash!


Sometimes tapping on the screen can shift them.


----------



## Kokin

The multi-input versions will overclock, but I cannot find any proof of them running without frame skipping. As far as we know, only the DL-DVI models have true overclocking.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The multi-input versions will overclock, but I cannot find any proof of them running without frame skipping. As far as we know, only the DL-DVI models have true overclocking.


AW are advertising these as overclockable http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-P-LED-Pivot-27-2560x1440-HDMI1-4-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/121133226189?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item1c341a58cd

But i think the P stands for pivot.....AW have the 2730MD without the P, they say these overclock as well but just dont say it in the title?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-LED-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-DVI-HDMI-S-IPS-PC-Monitor-/121148760756?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c350762b4


----------



## nm10721

Quote:


> Sometimes tapping on the screen can shift them. thumb.gif


tried that mate, no luck so far, thanks tho


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> AW are advertising these as overclockable http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-P-LED-Pivot-27-2560x1440-HDMI1-4-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/121133226189?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item1c341a58cd
> 
> But i think the P stands for pivot.....AW have the 2730MD without the P, they say these overclock as well but just dont say it in the title?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-LED-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-DVI-HDMI-S-IPS-PC-Monitor-/121148760756?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c350762b4


That's weird, I thought Crossovers didn't overclock at all. They repeat the claim further down in the ad : "Support vertical frequency 125 hz overclocking". Strange.

Are these new/different versions of the crossovers?

Edit: Apparently not, frameskips everything over 60hz it seems, so for OC'ing it's still the Qnix Dual Dvi version that rules the roost.


----------



## ya mother

I found these on the crossover forum on this site........normal crossovers don't overclock but these are the new 2730MD that replace the old 2720MD.

I think i will end up with one of these......going for the pixel perfect Glossy this time.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTHMfreak*
> 
> If it is just a stuck pixel should come out no prob


Stuck/hot pixels usually disappear over time.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I found these on the crossover forum on this site........normal crossovers don't overclock but these are the new 2730MD that replace the old 2720MD.
> 
> I think i will end up with one of these......going for the pixel perfect Glossy this time.


Hypermatrix said, in that thread regard the 2730MD model.

"This monitor uses the same multi-input board as the Witech Multi Limited Edition, and a monitor pulled before release from Achieva Shimian, and one released by First Semiconductor (I have a prototype of it). The reason for that is the 125hz operation is bogus. The dvi controller board allows an input of up to 125hz. So your computer will say "Heya. I'm sending 125hz (or 130hz, in my case) to your monitor! All is well!". The monitor is saying "Oh sweet! A 125hz input! I can totally take that! Thank you!." Then it tries to pass it to the Timing controller attached to the LCD panel and the monitor is like "Hey...TCON...buddy, I got 125 of these frames for you. What??? What do you mean you can only accept 60 from me? Fine...I'll send you frame 1, 3, 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, etc...."

Basically...it frame skips. It will accept an input higher than 60hz. The OSD will tell you that it's outputting 125hz. But it only ever sends a 60hz signal to the LCD panel itself. Sorry to burst your bubble."


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hypermatrix said, in that thread regard the 2730MD model.
> 
> "This monitor uses the same multi-input board as the Witech Multi Limited Edition, and a monitor pulled before release from Achieva Shimian, and one released by First Semiconductor (I have a prototype of it). The reason for that is the 125hz operation is bogus. The dvi controller board allows an input of up to 125hz. So your computer will say "Heya. I'm sending 125hz (or 130hz, in my case) to your monitor! All is well!". The monitor is saying "Oh sweet! A 125hz input! I can totally take that! Thank you!." Then it tries to pass it to the Timing controller attached to the LCD panel and the monitor is like "Hey...TCON...buddy, I got 125 of these frames for you. What??? What do you mean you can only accept 60 from me? Fine...I'll send you frame 1, 3, 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, etc...."
> 
> Basically...it frame skips. It will accept an input higher than 60hz. The OSD will tell you that it's outputting 125hz. But it only ever sends a 60hz signal to the LCD panel itself. Sorry to burst your bubble."


Thanks for that.....glad you told me mate as i was just about to buy it.......hmm.....gonna have to go for the tempered glass pixel perfect QNIX then, as they have sold out of glossy. rep your way latprod


----------



## Ghost12

Since upgrading my gpu yesterday to the msi 780 lightning I am having a new love in with my screen lol, everything is impressive now am maxing my games over my 7870.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Since upgrading my gpu yesterday to the msi 780 lightning I am having a new love in with my screen lol, everything is impressive now am maxing my games over my 7870.


What's your FPs in games like BF4 etc etc


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Thanks for that.....glad you told me mate as i was just about to buy it.......hmm.....gonna have to go for the tempered glass pixel perfect QNIX then, as they have sold out of glossy. rep your way latprod


hehe, Thank hypermatrix for pointing it out, I was only quoting him


----------



## bloodr0se

Delivery driver arrived with mine just minutes after my girlfriend left for work this morning so I've rescheduled delivery for tomorrow. Literally cannot wait to get it and try it out.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> hehe, Thank hypermatrix for pointing it out, I was only quoting him


Yeah but i never seen that?...... so if it wasnt for you i would have bought that frame skipping piece of junk and that would have been 2 Monitors i would have had in the space of a couple of weeks and wouldnt have a leg to stand on sending that crossfire back as i would have to prove it wasnt producing true 120hz.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> What's your FPs in games like BF4 etc etc


Not played bf4 yet since installing, will post later when play tonight. Ran some comparison benches with my friend last night, same screen, same mobo, same cpu but he has 670sli and was very similar avg frames in Tomb raider and Metro ll.


----------



## MeneerVent

Got my Sapphire HD 6450 today, and it works with the Qnix. I can play BF3 MP with 15FPS, lowest settings and 720p lol.
DOSE PIXELS
Coming from a 1366x768 monitor, this is awesome.
I have minimal backlight bleeding and one awkward pixel in the right-bottom corner, on a white background its lightblue but with other colors it is just the color it should be. And this stand, It's horrible. I put it my books of the Hunger Games trilogy under it, otherwise it would be to low.
What sucks is that there are not many video's and websites that really support this res. Now I can basically move an entire site to the left side of the screen and one on the right and still have empty space.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> What's your FPs in games like BF4 etc etc


It's hard to tell at the moment as bf4 is running pants .....i was getting 60fps (GTX770 AMP) on Ultra, dropping down to 9fps then spiking back up again.....lag/rubber banding etc doesnt help when your running Fraps to see your frame rate.....i reduced the eye candy from ultra to Medium and still not that much better.....people with Titans were getting similar results.

Until the game is running bug free I'm not gonna even run fraps again.....me buying a 7990 has nothing to do with this by the way lol


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> What's your FPs in games like BF4 etc etc
> 
> 
> 
> It's hard to tell at the moment as bf4 is running pants .....i was getting 60fps (GTX770 AMP) on Ultra, dropping down to 9fps then spiking back up again.....lag/rubber banding etc doesnt help when your running Fraps to see your frame rate.....i reduced the eye candy from ultra to Medium and still not that much better.....people with Titans were getting similar results.
> 
> Until the game is running bug free I'm not gonna even run fraps again.....me buying a 7990 has nothing to do with this by the way lol
Click to expand...

don't use fraps, use the built in FPS counter, it seems like FRAPS and overlays kill performance for BF4


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> don't use fraps, use the built in FPS counter, it seems like FRAPS and overlays kill performance for BF4


built into what exactly?


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> don't use fraps, use the built in FPS counter, it seems like FRAPS and overlays kill performance for BF4


Just remembered i did use the perfoverlay.drawfps true console command not fraps.....fraps didnt want to play ball for some strange reason?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> don't use fraps, use the built in FPS counter, it seems like FRAPS and overlays kill performance for BF4
> 
> 
> 
> built into what exactly?
Click to expand...

BF4 of course.

"perfoverlay.drawfps true"

also, turn off origin "ingame" those both give crazy random stuff.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> BF4 of course.
> 
> "perfoverlay.drawfps true"
> 
> also, turn off origin "ingame" those both give crazy random stuff.


ahh thanks man, wasn't aware of any of that. pretty new to the whole bf4 gig


----------



## ya mother

Bf4 just looks amazing on these Monitors.....gpu hungry tho when your turning all the eye candy up......eats vram for breakfast.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Bf4 just looks amazing on these Monitors.....gpu hungry tho when your turning all the eye candy up......eats vram for breakfast.


How is the 770 holding up? Have you got it set to ultra? I'm getting around 60-100 fps with ultra but no aa with my 7970, framerate differs depending on the map pretty heavily.


----------



## Strileckifunk

my 7970 runs this game like a champ without any AA. Streaming is incredibly rough on my rig, so I tried turning it down to 1080p to help. Man, do i really appreciate the difference in the resolutions after doing that!


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> How is the 770 holding up? Have you got it set to ultra? I'm getting around 60-100 fps with ultra but no aa with my 7970, framerate differs depending on the map pretty heavily.


Have to turn some settings down a bit to high instead of Ultra.......i think its because of the vram only being 2gb on the gtx770......the 7970 has 3gb i believe, which makes a hell of a difference at 2560x1440.

Just bought myself a 7990X6gb and a haswell mobo and 4770k, so as soon as i get my new Monitor i will be back in business.


----------



## thr33niL

Is it common for stuck/dead pixels to happen over time with these monitors? I bought my Qnix about a month ago and out of the box, I did quite a few tests and didn't find any pixel issues. The BLB was a little bad but I was happy to live with it and maybe attempt to fix it later. Well, this last week, I noticed a stuck pixel... then a few days later.. another stuck pixel. No more have cropped up in the last 3-4 days but I'm a little worried more will be on their way since after 2-3 weeks, I went from perfect pixels to 2 stuck pixels. I've tried a few non-physical pixel repairing methods to no avail. Next course of action seems to be tapping the pixel with a blunt instrument. Really don't want it to come to that but...


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Have to turn some settings down a bit to high instead of Ultra.......i think its because of the vram only being 2gb on the gtx770......the 7970 has 3gb i believe, which makes a hell of a difference at 2560x1440.
> 
> Just bought myself a 7990X6gb and a haswell mobo and 4770k, so as soon as i get my new Monitor i will be back in business.


So is there any general consensus on which GPU is better for 1440p, the R280X or the 770. The 770 only has 2GB VRAM but much better benchmarks than a R9280X. But he 280X has the 3GB VRAM?


----------



## eliminate1337

What's the advantage of the 'bypass board' compared to a normal monitor? Does this mean I have to run everything at 1440p? If I send the monitor a 1080p signal, what will it do?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eliminate1337*
> 
> What's the advantage of the 'bypass board' compared to a normal monitor? Does this mean I have to run everything at 1440p? If I send the monitor a 1080p signal, what will it do?


They bypass board has 2 accidental benefits, and one benefit intended by the manufacturer. The real benefit is that it's cheaper to make - thus a cheaper monitor. The two accidental benefits is that because it's so simple, little additional input lag is added by the internal monitor electronics - thus the monitor has low input lag as compared to other contemporaries. Also, because it's so simple, it doesn't do any sanity checks on the input signal - it just does what the signal tells it to do. Thus, it is possible to overclock the monitor above the 60hz design spec.

If you send it a 1080p signal, nothing will happen. Literally. It'll just sit there and be blank.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> If you send it a 1080p signal, nothing will happen. Literally. It'll just sit there and be blank.


I thought they were capable of running games in 1080p, albeit bordered.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> If you send it a 1080p signal, nothing will happen. Literally. It'll just sit there and be blank.


So basically, you cannot use a lower resolution on these monitors? I plan to lower it down to 1080p for smooth gaming if i have a chance to buy one soon... I'm still doing research.


----------



## nm10721

Quote:


> Is it common for stuck/dead pixels to happen over time with these monitors? I bought my Qnix about a month ago and out of the box, I did quite a few tests and didn't find any pixel issues. The BLB was a little bad but I was happy to live with it and maybe attempt to fix it later. Well, this last week, I noticed a stuck pixel... then a few days later.. another stuck pixel. No more have cropped up in the last 3-4 days but I'm a little worried more will be on their way since after 2-3 weeks, I went from perfect pixels to 2 stuck pixels. I've tried a few non-physical pixel repairing methods to no avail. Next course of action seems to be tapping the pixel with a blunt instrument. Really don't want it to come to that but...


I've got a stuck red pixel out of the box and tbh none of those methods have worked for me


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> So is there any general consensus on which GPU is better for 1440p, the R280X or the 770. The 770 only has 2GB VRAM but much better benchmarks than a R9280X. But he 280X has the 3GB VRAM?


As far as i know the larger the resolution the more vram needed, But i have seen the gtx770 beat the 7970 at 2560x1440 in benchmarks, even tho the 7970 has 1gb more vram?.....so it must be game depended.

Maybe the likes of crysis and bf4 which are graphically more intense than your average game, and you need a bit more vram oomph for more fps.....but on benchmarks the gtx770 owns the 7970 90% of the time.

Don't get me wrong when you turn a couple of settings from Ultra to high, the naked eye wont notice any difference and your probs talking about 5/10fps max, but i like to have everything up full, especially when ive just paid £358 for a gpu.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> So basically, you cannot use a lower resolution on these monitors? I plan to lower it down to 1080p for smooth gaming if i have a chance to buy one soon... I'm still doing research.


The monitor does not have a scaler built in, but if your GPU has a scaler it can perform GPU scaling and you'll be fine. You can select 1080 or whatever resolution you want and the GPU will scale it to the monitor.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> The monitor does not have a scaler built in, but if your GPU has a scaler it can perform GPU scaling and you'll be fine. You can select 1080 or whatever resolution you want and the GPU will scale it to the monitor.


I think NVCP has this scaler in settings... I haven't touch that yet since i game at native resolution at 1080p on my current monitor... Hopefully if i get the 1440p monitor, i'll have a chance to play with this.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nm10721*
> 
> thanks JTHMFREAK, no luck so far but I'll have another bash!


Sometimes you have to use a decent bit of pressure and it may take a min, I did it with my monitor on several times and it fixed it


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Pretty much. Have you tried lowering your Pixel Clock Rate as much as possible in CRU? If you're still getting those blue lines, I would just drop to 105~115Hz.


I will try the pixel clock rate, what should I lower it to?


----------



## nm10721

Quote:


> Sometimes you have to use a decent bit of pressure and it may take a min, I did it with my monitor on several times and it fixed it


thanks. I was applying a lot of pressure, tbh I think I'll quit whilst im ahead just now as its not working, maybe it'll disappear in time. I'll no doubt end up forgetting about it anyway


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nm10721*
> 
> thanks. I was applying a lot of pressure, tbh I think I'll quit whilst im ahead just now as its not working, maybe it'll disappear in time. I'll no doubt end up forgetting about it anyway


Yeah, a single pixel is not too big of a deal.


----------



## Hollowcrown

Battlefield 4 has been out for a bit now and I am wondering how the monitors stand up with the game?
I am looking to build a new pc to play this game and does anyone have any experience or reviews with bf4 and the monitors?
How is the motion blur?

Want to make sure this is the right choice to pair up with the game


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hollowcrown*
> 
> Battlefield 4 has been out for a bit now and I am wondering how the monitors stand up with the game?
> I am looking to build a new pc to play this game and does anyone have any experience or reviews with bf4 and the monitors?
> How is the motion blur?
> 
> Want to make sure this is the right choice to pair up with the game


When I got my screen fixed I played bf3 just before bf4 release, I posted at the time that the motion blur or input lag effect on fast paced gameplay such as bf3 operation metro was completely unplayable on this screen Imo, since switching to bf4 had no such problems, it is great. I have motion blur off in game and then one step further using a settings cfg file which virtually removes all game motion blur.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So I'm looking for a 30" monitor 2560-1600 with PLS panel. Does anyone know if Qnix or X-star make 30" version besides those 27 ones? Any infos would be appreciated.


Watch out. 30" LCD panels generally have inferior color reproduction, black levels, contrast ratios, etc... than 27" 1440p monitors. At least that's the trend seen till now. So they're not better in that sense.


----------



## Astonished

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> When I got my screen fixed I played bf3 just before bf4 release, I posted at the time that the motion blur or input lag effect on fast paced gameplay such as bf3 operation metro was completely unplayable on this screen Imo, since switching to bf4 had no such problems, it is great. I have motion blur off in game and then one step further using a settings cfg file which virtually removes all game motion blur.


Care to post the .cfg settings?


----------



## Hollowcrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> When I got my screen fixed I played bf3 just before bf4 release, I posted at the time that the motion blur or input lag effect on fast paced gameplay such as bf3 operation metro was completely unplayable on this screen Imo, since switching to bf4 had no such problems, it is great. I have motion blur off in game and then one step further using a settings cfg file which virtually removes all game motion blur.


That sounds great! Any reason why its better for bf4 and not the bf3? I hope its like that for all monitors and oyu just didnt get a lucky one haha


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hollowcrown*
> 
> That sounds great! Any reason why its better for bf4 and not the bf3? I hope its like that for all monitors and oyu just didnt get a lucky one haha


No idea, may be the design between the two games but no problems playing bf4 on this screen whereas if would have been playing bf3 for longer would not have been able to use it.

@Astonished my Bf4 cfg lines as follows

GameTime.MaxVariableFps 200.000000
*GstRender.MotionBlur 0.000000*
PerfOverlay.DrawFps 1
PerfOverlay.DrawGraph 0
PerfOverlay.Enable 1
Render.DrawScreenInfo 0
Render.VsyncFlashTestEnable 0
RenderDevice.Dx11Dot1Enable 1
RenderDevice.Dx11Dot1RuntimeEnable 1
RenderDevice.Dx11Enable 1
RenderDevice.renderaheadlimit 0
RenderDevice.TripleBufferingEnable 0
RenderDevice.VSyncEnable 0
Screenshot.Format png
UI.DrawEnable 1
*WorldRender.DxDeferredCsPathEnable 1
WorldRender.FxaaEnable 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurEnable 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurFixedShutterTime 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurForceOn 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurMax 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurMaxSampleCount 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurQuality 0*
WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapResolution 1024


----------



## bmancreations

So I now have 3 of these 27" monitors (sadly, 2 XSTAR, 1 QNIX, would have loved one last XSTAR) and I have them wall mounted.

So the next step is cable management, I want to punch the hole into the wall, and do it that way (as they do with newer TV setups). So to do this I need to buy longer DVI cables to reach the entire length. As in side monitor cables go sideways to the middle monitor, then into the wall, so only one hole









My question is, my monitors currently overlook to 96hz without issue, how much of a difference does cables make? I want to buy the cheapest I can find of DVI, but is that fine, will I have issues, will the longer length cause issue? Note, I will be getting I think 10FT cables, if not longer to accomplish the clean inside wall run.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> So I now have 3 of these 27" monitors (sadly, 2 XSTAR, 1 QNIX, would have loved one last XSTAR) and I have them wall mounted.
> 
> So the next step is cable management, I want to punch the hole into the wall, and do it that way (as they do with newer TV setups). So to do this I need to buy longer DVI cables to reach the entire length. As in side monitor cables go sideways to the middle monitor, then into the wall, so only one hole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My question is, my monitors currently overlook to 96hz without issue, how much of a difference does cables make? I want to buy the cheapest I can find of DVI, but is that fine, will I have issues, will the longer length cause issue? Note, I will be getting I think 10FT cables, if not longer to accomplish the clean inside wall run.


I think @ 10 feet, you'll be fine with AWG24 cables with ferrites (the bumpy things!) monoprice is a good place.


----------



## Craigaaa

Pretty close to purchasing this QNIX 2710 evo2 and setting it up to 120Hz. Currently have Galaxy 660Ti 3GB versions in SLI. Crysis 3 all ULTRA 2560x1440 averages about 50fps. Found someone that wants to buy my white crossover 27Q. Had the crossover since they first came out almost 2 years ago. Everything works great but had to replace the LED driver REV 00 after 4 months because of the mosfet issue. I know the LG S-IPS panel in my crossover is 80cd/m2 brighter than the SAM PLS panel. Does anyone seem to notice it being a little dimmer than most panels at max brightness? Also what video board manufacture and LED driver do they use? I know the crossovers were manufactured with Digital Waves Korean pcb's. I am just curious if anyone has torn theirs apart to replace any components.


----------



## Wakalakaz

bad news guy : (


http://imgur.com/NGzlg

 ive got a whole row of vertical blue pixels dead : / does ne one know what i should do? maybe a fix?


----------



## noogai93

Does anyone know how to get nvidia surround running with overclocked screens? i have 3 xstars @100Hz ive tried removing the 60hz option in cru but when i go to enable surround my pc bluescreens, i can only get it to surround at 60hz.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> I think @ 10 feet, you'll be fine with AWG24 cables with ferrites (the bumpy things!) monoprice is a good place.


I don't know anything about cables, what is AWG24 and bumpy things? lol


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noogai93*
> 
> Does anyone know how to get nvidia surround running with overclocked screens? i have 3 xstars @100Hz ive tried removing the 60hz option in cru but when i go to enable surround my pc bluescreens, i can only get it to surround at 60hz.


Yea I need to know, cause after xmas I will be trying out surround for the first time...so 96hz would be nice.


----------



## noogai93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noogai93*
> 
> Does anyone know how to get nvidia surround running with overclocked screens? i have 3 xstars @100Hz ive tried removing the 60hz option in cru but when i go to enable surround my pc bluescreens, i can only get it to surround at 60hz.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Yea I need to know, cause after xmas I will be trying out surround for the first time...so 96hz would be nice.


Should also mention im running 2 670s in sli, two xstars connected to the 1st gpu, the other connected to the 2nd gpu, running full patched 331.65 on windows 8 64


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noogai93*
> 
> Should also mention im running 2 670s in sli, two xstars connected to the 1st gpu, the other connected to the 2nd gpu, running full patched 331.65 on windows 8 64


Well I'd assume you'd have more luck. I will have 1 GTX 770 running all three monitors, but I am planning on upgrading the card. And well if Surround has issues, plus I don't like how it basically takes over windows, I might have to go with AMD on this one.


----------



## noogai93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Well I'd assume you'd have more luck. I will have 1 GTX 770 running all three monitors, but I am planning on upgrading the card. And well if Surround has issues, plus I don't like how it basically takes over windows, I might have to go with AMD on this one.


yeah nvidia surround is pretty terrible on windows 8, some things work some dont, mostly its just awkward window placement, the drivers are terrible


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I don't know anything about cables, what is AWG24 and bumpy things? lol


AWG is American Wire Gauge. The lower the AWG the fatter the cable. From Spartan F8's tests (results reported in this thread), it seems that the wire gauge is less important than wire length. The shorter the cable the better for overclocking these monitors, though it seems that cable quality varies quite a bit, even with the "same" cables.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I don't know anything about cables, what is AWG24 and bumpy things? lol
> 
> 
> 
> AWG is American Wire Gauge. The lower the AWG the fatter the cable. From Spartan F8's tests (results reported in this thread), it seems that the wire gauge is less important than wire length. The shorter the cable the better for overclocking these monitors, though it seems that cable quality varies quite a bit, even with the "same" cables.
Click to expand...

Gauge is extremely important for high frequency digital signals.
example :
Quote:


> Parallel Digital Video (e.g., DVI and HDMI):
> The dominant consumer digital video formats are HDMI and DVI. In HDMI and DVI, digital signals are run at bitrates which vary with resolution, and which can run quite high; currently, the highest HDMI resolution in common use is 1080p/60, which involves running signal at 1.485 Gbps. What does wire gage have to do with this sort of application?
> 
> As with analog video--and indeed, much more so, because of the very high frequencies involved--the really important attribute of a cable is its characteristic impedance. Here, we're not dealing with coaxial cable, but with twisted pairs, where characteristic impedance is much harder to control and is liable to change significantly from one inch to the next.
> 
> The frequencies in use here do an interesting thing to the significance of wire gage, which requires a bit of three-dimensional thinking to understand. In a 1.485 Gbps bitstream, our fundamental frequency is normally considered to be about half that bitrate, or 742.5 MHz, and because we're trying to convey some harmonics of that fundamental frequency to keep our bit edges from rounding off too much to be recognized by the receiving circuit, the bandwidth required to handle that is about three times that frequency, or 2.2275 GHz. Remember "skin effect"? Well, whether we're talking about 742 MHz or 2.2 GHz, skin effect at these frequencies is extreme. There is essentially no signal flowing through the middle of an HDMI cable conductor--it is all skimming the surface.
> 
> What that means to wire gage is that an increase in size is no longer as significant as it would be at lower frequencies, because the increase in wire surface area is proportional to diameter rather than to the square of diameter. Let's consider, say, the difference between a 24 and a 22 AWG cable. If we were buying 24 or 22 AWG wire for DC power, and wanted to know how much loss we'd see in a run, we'd be interested primarily in the cross-sectional area. A 24 AWG wire has a circular mil area of 404; a 22 AWG wire has a circular mil area of 640.4. Since DC resistance is inversely proportional to this area, this makes a big difference--the resistance of the 22 AWG wire is a bit less than 2/3 the resistance of the 24, for any given distance.
> 
> But if we're looking at skin effect, the picture changes. The cross-sectional area is practically irrelevant because the "skin depth" is next to nothing. Instead of cross-sectional area, loss to resistance is going to be inversely proportional to the amount of copper through which the signal actually passes--that is, it's going to be inversely proportional to the cable's surface area--or, speaking in cross-sectional terms, its perimeter. A 24 AWG wire has a diameter of .0201 inch, and a 22 AWG wire has a diameter of .0253 inch. Since the perimeters are simply these numbers each multiplied by pi, we can see the ratio of perimeters without doing that multiplication. The 22 AWG is "bigger" than the 24 by .0253/.0201, or a factor of 1.259. When we were concerned with area of the cross-section rather than perimeter, the ratio of circular mils was much steeper: 640.4/404, making the 22 AWG "bigger" by a factor of 1.585. Instead of the use of 22 AWG dropping resistance to about 63% of the 24 AWG wire's resistance, as happens at DC, it drops resistance only to about 80% of the 24 AWG's value.
> 
> Now, any reduction in resistance is good; the point here is simply to show that it isn't as good as one might expect. If all else were equal, one would expect 22 AWG HDMI cable to be useful for a distance of about 20% longer than a similar 24 AWG cable (this almost certainly overstates the advantage, because, of course, all else isn't equal. The longer run will show greater performance losses from other factors, including capacitance, crosstalk, skew and return loss).
> 
> The cable quality factors that really matter in HDMI cable are, primarily, impedance control on the TMDS pairs (which do the heavy lifting in the HDMI cable), and skew, which is a measure of the difference in electrical length of the conductors and pairs (by "electrical length," we mean the length of the wire, as measured by the time it takes a pulse to travel down the line; this may vary from physical length for a number of reasons, most but not all of which are related to impedance control). These parameters are notoriously difficult to control, and have nothing in particular to do with wire gage except insofar as it is sometimes easier to control tolerances in larger than in smaller cable. So, wire gage means something in HDMI cable; but it is not ordinarily the primary factor in measuring cable quality. A cable with superior return loss and skew can easily outperform a larger cable in a distance run.


that pretty much sums that up, quality can out weight the need for thicker cables, but at the same time, thicker cables are needed as well. it's a 2 part solution where a better part can pick up the slack of another part, but can't carry the load (I hope that makes sense, to someone other than me) I know in spartanF8's tests it didn't matter, but the tests didn't include "premium" cables, nore cables of excess length,

NOW.. the bumpy things are ferrite cores (chokes/beads) :


which :
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead*
> Ferrite beads are used to prevent interference in two directions: from a device or to a device.[1] A conductive cable acts as an antenna - if the device produces radio frequency energy, this can be transmitted through the cable, which acts as an unintentional radiator. In this case the bead is required for regulatory compliance, to reduce EMI. Conversely, if there are other sources of EMI, such as household appliances, the bead prevents the cable from acting as an antenna and receiving interference from these other devices. This is particularly common on data cables and on medical equipment


TL;DR

quality is more important than size, but not exclusively
the bumps are EMI safety, not determined by quality, all ranges use them.


----------



## ya mother

Well i sent my Monitor back with all the dead pixels, and purchased another tempered gloss one (wanted a glossy but they said they had no perfect pixel glossy left even tho they were still advertised on ebay?)
And got an email saying the tempered glass one they had was the last one and they had checked it and it had 3 dead pixels and would knock off $60 off the price of the perfect pixel price which really is what it costs extra for perfect pixel lol.

I told them no and they have refunded me the money on the 2nd one but i havent been refunded yet on the first one until it reaches korea,

So the search continues.....the price difference from sellers is all over the place....you can pay £260 right up to £440 for the same monitor?......i dont understand....then the pixel perfect policy differs from seller to seller....only AV say no dead pixels but others say 3 for pixel perfect which imo is not perfect is it?

Now i'm looking at X-star as they are the same panel.....still nothing?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Well i sent my Monitor back with all the dead pixels, and purchased another tempered gloss one (wanted a glossy but they said they had no perfect pixel glossy left even tho they were still advertised on ebay?)
> And got an email saying the tempered glass one they had was the last one and they had checked it and it had 3 dead pixels and would knock off $60 off the price of the perfect pixel price which really is what it costs extra for perfect pixel lol.
> 
> I told them no and they have refunded me the money on the 2nd one but i havent been refunded yet on the first one until it reaches korea,
> 
> So the search continues.....the price difference from sellers is all over the place....you can pay £260 right up to £440 for the same monitor?......i dont understand....then the pixel perfect policy differs from seller to seller....only AV say no dead pixels but others say 3 for pixel perfect which imo is not perfect is it?
> 
> Now i'm looking at X-star as they are the same panel.....still nothing?


x-star is the EXACT same monitor, and the tempered are not gloss. I have one, and it's matte under the tempered. in my luck, I've gotten only 1 dead pixel over 6 monitors from dream_seller. one of them had BLB so bad, I didn't think it was fixable, some bending and tape later... done.


----------



## DiceAir

Ok guys is there any way of forcing my desktop to 60hz but my games to 96Hz?


----------



## Ryder92

Not unless you change CRU profiles every time you are about to game. Sadly, as far as I know, this is the only way this can be done


----------



## Valesthesia

Any chance I can get a link to the current 'best bet' for ordering a 27" q-nix? I can't seem to find which one I should be purchasing.

I plan on getting matte even though I don't think there will be any glare or anything- is that a good choice? I won't be near any light but will be near many other monitors and TVs and such. Everything I Google says to go with matte, though.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valesthesia*
> 
> Any chance I can get a link to the current 'best bet' for ordering a 27" q-nix? I can't seem to find which one I should be purchasing.
> 
> I plan on getting matte even though I don't think there will be any glare or anything- is that a good choice? I won't be near any light but will be near many other monitors and TVs and such. Everything I Google says to go with matte, though.


What do you mean by 'best bet'? Best bet as in best price or best bet as in OC potential/no dead pixels/BLB?


----------



## Valesthesia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> What do you mean by 'best bet'? Best bet as in best price or best bet as in OC potential/no dead pixels/BLB?


I'm not going to lie, I don't even know. I've done what I can reading but now I am just confused- especially when eBay is involved =) Best bet as in quality for the $$$, I'd rather pay a little extra for a seller that ends up delivering a better product.


----------



## angelnieves

Has anyone has any luck using a capture card (ex. Avermedia c985) with this monitor? Using a DVI-D to HDMI cable did not seem to work or does not maintain the 120Hz OC I currently had with just DVI-D connection. Any recommendations?


----------



## Wakalakaz

Has Anyone had experience with Dream-Seller returns? My x-star has a whole row of dead pixels if it was a couple here or there i would be ok with it, but its many more than that. I would want to return it if he will pay for shipping. If not i would take a partial refund. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience.


----------



## Ryder92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valesthesia*
> 
> Any chance I can get a link to the current 'best bet' for ordering a 27" q-nix? I can't seem to find which one I should be purchasing.
> 
> I plan on getting matte even though I don't think there will be any glare or anything- is that a good choice? I won't be near any light but will be near many other monitors and TVs and such. Everything I Google says to go with matte, though.


Check out the first page of the thread and make your decision based on that. Honestly, with the exception of a few sellers who have bad reputations, for the most part you are going to have the same chances with whoever you go through. I have not heard of a bad experience with green-sum (who I bought from) or dreamseller, but each buyer is going to have a different experience. Matte really is the clear choice, it can be used with glare or without, it does not hold finger prints as easily as glossy, and I personally think it looks about the same in quality. The matte finish on the QX2710 is not particularly aggressive though, honestly its up the the user and what you like. The last few pages of the thread have led me to believe that most of the sellers on Ebay are currently out of stock of pixel perfect glossy screens, meaning your glossy screen will almost definitely have dead pixels. Either way, its a beautiful screen and a savvy buy, you wont be disappointed.


----------



## Valesthesia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryder92*
> 
> Check out the first page of the thread and make your decision based on that. Honestly, with the exception of a few sellers who have bad reputations, for the most part you are going to have the same chances with whoever you go through. I have not heard of a bad experience with green-sum (who I bought from) or dreamseller, but each buyer is going to have a different experience. Matte really is the clear choice, it can be used with glare or without, it does not hold finger prints as easily as glossy, and I personally think it looks about the same in quality. The matte finish on the QX2710 is not particularly aggressive though, honestly its up the the user and what you like. The last few pages of the thread have led me to believe that most of the sellers on Ebay are currently out of stock of pixel perfect glossy screens, meaning your glossy screen will almost definitely have dead pixels. Either way, its a beautiful screen and a savvy buy, you wont be disappointed.


Thanks!

So I should basically just buy the cheapest matte from a big seller like green-sum or dream-seller? By the looks of it, it doesn't matter if I go with x-star or qnix, right? Just wondering, because in the FAQ the majority of people purchased qnix.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valesthesia*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> So I should basically just buy the cheapest matte from a big seller like green-sum or dream-seller? By the looks of it, it doesn't matter if I go with x-star or qnix, right? Just wondering, because in the FAQ the majority of people purchased qnix.


Not to add more confusion to the mix but i had a matte asus pb278q 1440p monitor and didn't like the matte at all. Got the glossy tempered glass qnix and it is awesome. The popular choice for recommendations on the internet for gamers does indeed seem to be matte but that is because of glare primarily, purely for image quality the nod goes to glossy and tempered glass, more vibrant colors etc. not just my opinion. So if glare won't be a issue for you go for glossy and tempered glass, if glare is a issue then go matte. I personally won't ever be going matte again.

Oh and accessorieswhole seems to be a pretty safe bet atm. Don't go pixel perfect either, still might get dead pixels or worse issues.


----------



## semajha

+1 for gloss. Most people I know who are against glossy screens are professional graphic designers or photo editors. Apparently, glossy displays don't display true, accurate colors. Makes sense, hence the "more vibrant colors and contrast" you get off glossy displays.

anyone want to clarify the whole dvi port issue? I just recently found out that there's more than one type of DVI connection. My graphics card(gtx 470) has a DVI jack that is not compatible with DVI cable that these monitors come with. Should I worry? Or is it as easy as buying an adapter?


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> +1 for gloss. Most people I know who are against glossy screens are professional graphic designers or photo editors. Apparently, glossy displays don't display true, accurate colors. Makes sense, hence the "more vibrant colors and contrast" you get off glossy displays.
> 
> anyone want to clarify the whole dvi port issue? I just recently found out that there's more than one type of DVI connection. My graphics card(gtx 470) has a DVI jack that is not compatible with DVI cable that these monitors come with. Should I worry? Or is it as easy as buying an adapter?


well, there are(in our cases)
DVI-D (digital only, single link or dual link)
DVI-I (integrated, combines digital and analog in the same connector; digital may be single or dual link)

either of them will work if they are DUAL LINK, not dual link, not going to work (no adaptors)



according to this, your card is supposed to have it :


I am going to +1 for MATTE screens, any sort of back-lighting behind you, makes most glossy screens worthless IMO.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> x-star is the EXACT same monitor, and the tempered are not gloss. I have one, and it's matte under the tempered. in my luck, I've gotten only 1 dead pixel over 6 monitors from dream_seller. one of them had BLB so bad, I didn't think it was fixable, some bending and tape later... done.


did you just follow the video linked on page 1? I dont quite understand how and on what part you are supposed to apply the tape. Could you clarify since you managed to do it? Thanks!


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> did you just follow the video linked on page 1? I dont quite understand how and on what part you are supposed to apply the tape. Could you clarify since you managed to do it? Thanks!


----------



## The Storm

The wife has given me the full go ahead to get one now I am deciding which one to go for. Kinda pumped about it, it should be so much nicer than my samsung 27" 1080p.

Dream seller on ebay has the X-star for 279 shipped right now, I was really looking for the Qnix but I understand they are the same...wow $279 is so cheap.


----------



## Broadband

hey guys,

I am gonna upload a couple images. Can you help me judge if it's BLB and how bad it is?



Top tight corner is some light (not BLB I guess) which is not so harhs as it smoothly fades into a brigther light.
The bottom is off puuting.

To me they look pretty bad -.- They ca be noticed clearly even when playing.
Is it something I can fix somehow? maybe by disasambling it? Electrical tape etc?

Thanks a lot


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> hey guys,
> 
> I am gonna upload a couple images. Can you help me judge if it's BLB and how bad it is?
> 
> Is it something I can fix somehow? maybe by disasambling it? Electrical tape etc?
> 
> Thanks a lot


I don't think that is too bad but if you are noticing it i would do something to fix it. Take a look at the first page of the thread and look for Backlight bleed fix. There are videos and tutorials about fixing it.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok guys is there any way of forcing my desktop to 60hz but my games to 96Hz?


I don't know about amd, but with nvidia I just change it in the control panel after the different settings were made, very easy for me.


----------



## Hollowcrown

What eBay seller is the best to buy it from?
I saw on slick deals some for $270 shipped from ebay but do these have higher dead pixel percentage? Or is it all the same from every seller


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hollowcrown*
> 
> What eBay seller is the best to buy it from?
> I saw on slick deals some for $270 shipped from ebay but do these have higher dead pixel percentage? Or is it all the same from every seller


accessorieswhole only allow 3 dead pixels on a normal panel, and on the "Perfect Pixel" they allow none.....dont think other sellers are as strict tbh.


----------



## orbster556

Hey All:

Just ordered an X-Star 2710 from dream-seller; although part of me wanted to hold off to see if any sales were offered, figured prices weren't going to dip much below $279.

I did, however, have a quick question concerning voltage converters and plug adapters: specifically, am I correct in thinking I will not need a voltage converter but will need to pick up a Type B plug adapter (an adapter that accepts Type C plugs and outputs Type B)?

Alternatively, if I had a spare 3-prong power cord -- ones traditionally used with TV and PSUs -- would I be able to use that cord instead of the the cord that ships with the monitor?

Thanks, in advance, for any insight or info.

Regards,


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbster556*
> 
> Hey All:
> 
> Just ordered an X-Star 2710 from dream-seller; although part of me wanted to hold off to see if any sales were offered, figured prices weren't going to dip much below $279.
> 
> I did, however, have a quick question concerning voltage converters and plug adapters: specifically, am I correct in thinking I will not need a voltage converter but will need to pick up a Type B plug adapter (an adapter that accepts Type C plugs and outputs Type B)?
> 
> Alternatively, if I had a spare 3-prong power cord -- ones traditionally used with TV and PSUs -- would I be able to use that cord instead of the the cord that ships with the monitor?
> 
> Thanks, in advance, for any insight or info.
> 
> Regards,


You can just swap it for any ATX-style 3 pin power cord. Mine arrived today and that's all I did when I tested it. Most of the Korean sellers provide a power adaptor for the local socket type or a completely universal one but I just replaced the power cord as the supplied travel adaptor was actually quite nice so we're planning to save it for vacations.

The power packs provided with the monitor are universal current and will automatically switch to 110-240 volts wherever you are. South Korea uses the same 220v Schuko system as Continental Europe.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valesthesia*
> 
> I'm not going to lie, I don't even know. I've done what I can reading but now I am just confused- especially when eBay is involved =) Best bet as in quality for the $$$, I'd rather pay a little extra for a seller that ends up delivering a better product.


Depending on your region, possibly Dreamseller or AccessoriesWhole then. Both are really well established but are less keen to reduce the value listed on the shipping invoice so that can cause high import taxes in Canada and Europe. For America it's no problem whatsoever.

BigClothCraft. ExcellentCastle and StoreWithStory also each have a good and solid reputation.


----------



## Ryder92

I actually don't know much about the Xstar other than it is a cheap Korean monitor that most likely uses the same panels. I can however vouch that the Qnix is a great monitor, no regrets about buying it. Yea, pretty much, unless you are really really concerned about dead pixels and are going to buy the *pixel perfect* guarantee, then I would say just buy one from whoever seems like a reputable buyer for the right price. Again, I bought from green-sum with no guarantee at 289.99, and my monitor is immaculate. Either way, good luck!


----------



## xGHOSTx

I received the Qnix today from eBay seller storewithstory. Bought the perfect pixel with matte screen, after my best offer was accepted. Shipping was fairly quick via UPS. I was expecting the monitor to have some flaws, but for my surprise there are no dead or stuck pixels and there is no light bleed at all, screen looks even. Also overclocked to 120Hz without any issues.

The thing that I noticed is when I turn the brightness way down, I can see a slight flickering, although it's hard to see. When I turn the brightness up it goes away. I guess it is because of the PWM?


----------



## orbster556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> You can just swap it for any ATX-style 3 pin power cord. Mine arrived today and that's all I did when I tested it. Most of the Korean sellers provide a power adaptor for the local socket type or a completely universal one but I just replaced the power cord as the supplied travel adaptor was actually quite nice so we're planning to save it for vacations.
> 
> The power packs provided with the monitor are universal current and will automatically switch to 110-240 volts wherever you are. South Korea uses the same 220v Schuko system as Continental Europe.


Thanks for the clarification; am glad I won't have to worry about purchasing any other accessories to be able to use the monitor when it arrives.

Thanks again.

Regards,


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryder92*
> 
> I actually don't know much about the Xstar other than it is a cheap Korean monitor that most likely uses the same panels. I can however vouch that the Qnix is a great monitor, no regrets about buying it. Yea, pretty much, unless you are really really concerned about dead pixels and are going to buy the *pixel perfect* guarantee, then I would say just buy one from whoever seems like a reputable buyer for the right price. Again, I bought from green-sum with no guarantee at 289.99, and my monitor is immaculate. Either way, good luck!


you need to read before you post stuff like this, x-star and QNIX are the SAME, the difference is the box, and the name on the bezel.


----------



## killswitchh

So, is it safe to OC my x-star to 120hz with a 125v power cord? Used a normal cord with the brick that has 240v max.

Also, what happens to your monitor if you overdue it?


----------



## semajha

How do these monitors compare to the ASUS PB278Q? I'm checking out some reviews the asus seems to be a very good monitor as well. Other than the price, are there any other major differences between the two?

Just want to mention that I'm a light gamer, this monitor will mostly be used for web developing.


----------



## Ryder92

I need to read before I post what I know about the product that I own? I didn't post any misinformation, simply answered to the best of my knowledge "*I actually don't know much about the Xstar* other than it is a cheap Korean monitor that most likely uses the same panels" which I stated, I said nothing conclusively and even so you reverberated my point that they are the same panels with different names. No need to be a dick about it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> accessorieswhole only allow 3 dead pixels on a normal panel, and on the "Perfect Pixel" they allow none.....dont think other sellers are as strict tbh.


And the policy doesn't work. I ordered a PP from them and got a single blue stuck pixel left of center. Not an issue for me really but they didn't follow their policy did they.


----------



## Lacertia

Ah this is annoying, I'm not hopeful that I'll get it before the weekend







. Slow ass delivery people lol.

Wednesday, November 13, 2013 Location Time
16 Forwarded for delivery VICTORIA STATE OUTLYING AREAS - AUSTRALIA 10:20


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Not to add more confusion to the mix but i had a matte asus pb278q 1440p monitor and didn't like the matte at all. Got the glossy tempered glass qnix and it is awesome. The popular choice for recommendations on the internet for gamers does indeed seem to be matte but that is because of glare primarily, purely for image quality the nod goes to glossy and tempered glass, more vibrant colors etc. not just my opinion. So if glare won't be a issue for you go for glossy and tempered glass, if glare is a issue then go matte. I personally won't ever be going matte again.
> 
> Oh and accessorieswhole seems to be a pretty safe bet atm. Don't go pixel perfect either, still might get dead pixels or worse issues.


These are semi-glossy matte coatings like the ASUS PB278Q I'm guessing. Glare would annoy me far more so glossy and tempered glass are a no-go for me and many people here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> +1 for gloss. Most people I know who are against glossy screens are professional graphic designers or photo editors. Apparently, glossy displays don't display true, accurate colors. Makes sense, hence the "more vibrant colors and contrast" you get off glossy displays.


It's the same panel behind the glass. Glare is the problem. It messes with colors and also lowers perceived contrast ratio.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGHOSTx*
> 
> I received the Qnix today from eBay seller storewithstory. Bought the perfect pixel with matte screen, after my best offer was accepted. Shipping was fairly quick via UPS. I was expecting the monitor to have some flaws, but for my surprise there are no dead or stuck pixels and there is no light bleed at all, screen looks even. Also overclocked to 120Hz without any issues.
> 
> The thing that I noticed is when I turn the brightness way down, I can see a slight flickering, although it's hard to see. When I turn the brightness up it goes away. I guess it is because of the PWM?


Not necessarily PWM. I'm trying to have a steady hand with the camera when measuring PWM, but it needs practice. Another user found no PWM flicker even at lowest brightness but he saw it flicker. So I'm guessing it's a different kind of flicker for the first two brightness steps or so. My monitor is the same it seems, I can't notice any flicker whatsoever at higher brightnesses but once I dip down to the lowest brightnesses I see some kind of pulse, might not be constant.

@*drdrache*: that's the theory, but Spartan F8's tests with 30 cables have found the biggest impact from length first and foremost.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Joseph Dirt*


Yeah, I've watched it a couple of times, but I don't really grasp how he applies the tape, and where. It's also pretty blurry and unfocused, and he never shows how he did it.
there's just a before and after.
So I'm wondering, where is the tape applied? How is the tape applied? It seems like it's a bunch of little squares around the metal frame, but hard to see.
How thick is the tape ? I don't want it to be too much so I can't put it back together.
And what is the purpose of the tape? To make the metal frame tighter against the chassis? Or is it strategically placed to block out light bleed?

I'd be really happy if someone could talk me through this properly, cuz mine's suffering from a little too much bleed than I am comfortable with.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> These are semi-glossy matte coatings like the ASUS PB278Q I'm guessing. Glare would annoy me far more so glossy and tempered glass are a no-go for me and many people here.
> 
> @*drdrache*: that's the theory, but Spartan F8's tests with 30 cables have found the biggest impact from length first and foremost.


That's fine, i believe it is a glossy panel with tempered glass as was indicated to me when buying. The image quality of the tempered glass glossy is far better than the matte asus pb278q that i owned. To each their own but i personally feel the drop off in IQ from the matte version supersedes any glare issues you may get from glossy/tempered glass.


----------



## ya mother

They gave one to a guy on here and because he paid for pixel perfect and had one dead pixel they paid for the return postage and gave him another one......a bit of an inconvenience but still it's nice to know they honour their policy.

Im really struggling to find a Glossy or Tempered glass......loads on ebay but when you contact them they say they are out of stock?

One seller has offered me a Tempered glass with 3 dead pixels for 3% off lol.....i said tell me where they are and i will consider it.....if they are at the sides then not really a big problem tbh.

There doesnt seem to be any glossy or glass ones knocking about.....found one but it says "does not ship to UK? Which is odd because it was from Dreamseller who ships to the UK.......just not that Qnix?


----------



## Kokin

The semi-glossy coating on the Qnix Matte version is a very light layer. I have an HP ZR2240w right next to it and if I shine my phone's LED to both monitors, the HP's matte coating will absorb most of the light, resulting in this blurry circle while the Qnix will actually reflect the LED in much more detail.

My camera can't really pick it up, but the right circle actually reflects the LED (brightest point) at the center of the circle and there is a rainbow halo like what you would see in a glass plane.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killswitchh*
> 
> So, is it safe to OC my x-star to 120hz with a 125v power cord? Used a normal cord with the brick that has 240v max.
> 
> Also, what happens to your monitor if you overdue it?


Yes, the brick will allow for 100~240V input, so you are good to go.

As far as going too far, I think you start to see corruption when you're at your limits and eventually it will go to test mode if you go past that. I'm not exactly sure how it works, but you can ask Spartan F8 since I remember him saying he was able test up to 150Hz on his monitor.


----------



## Shepardg

Alright guys, here's the situation:

I got stationed in korea, so i thought it would be a great idea to get one of those super low price (i.e. cheap) 2560x1440 monitors i hear so much about. I didn't bring my desktop with me but i did bring my Sager 9390 (780gtx non-sli version).

I got a x-star for around 280$ (after conversions etc.) and I'm trying to get it running and i'm not having any luck.

I've tried the DVI port in my laptop (still unsure if it's Dual link or not)
I've tried a DVI-D > HDMI cable also (i would assume this would support 2560x1440)

I'm running windows 8.1 and have nvidia drivers 331.58

It's virtually a clean install with only 3 games installed so far.

I power on the monitor, and i get the blinking blue LED in the lower corner.
The thing that sucks though, is i bought it from a local hobby shop, and they don't do returns... which is partially my fault for not asking, but also the language barrier rearing it's ugly head.

Am i hosed? I haven't tried display port > DVI-D yet and honestly i'm not even sure that's a thing.

Am I out 280$ or what







Someone help!

EDIT : Windows see's that a "DUAL-DVI" is connected, but i can't make any changes. Nvidia control panel also sees this, but again, I am unable to make changes.
When i try to set windows to "Show desktop only on 2" I hit apply and i get : "Display settings could not be changed, Please try a different combination of display settings"


----------



## kevinsbane

What laptop do you have? HDMI to DVI converters do not work with this monitor. Active displayport to dual link dvi converters will work, but aren't cheap.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shepardg*
> 
> Alright guys, here's the situation:
> 
> I got stationed in korea, so i thought it would be a great idea to get one of those super low price (i.e. cheap) 2560x1440 monitors i hear so much about. I didn't bring my desktop with me but i did bring my Sager 9390 (780gtx non-sli version).
> 
> I got a x-star for around 280$ (after conversions etc.) and I'm trying to get it running and i'm not having any luck.
> 
> I've tried the DVI port in my laptop (still unsure if it's Dual link or not)
> I've tried a DVI-D > HDMI cable also (i would assume this would support 2560x1440)
> 
> I'm running windows 8.1 and have nvidia drivers 331.58
> 
> It's virtually a clean install with only 3 games installed so far.
> 
> I power on the monitor, and i get the blinking blue LED in the lower corner.
> The thing that sucks though, is i bought it from a local hobby shop, and they don't do returns... which is partially my fault for not asking, but also the language barrier rearing it's ugly head.
> 
> Am i hosed? I haven't tried display port > DVI-D yet and honestly i'm not even sure that's a thing.
> 
> Am I out 280$ or what
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone help!
> 
> EDIT : Windows see's that a "DUAL-DVI" is connected, but i can't make any changes. Nvidia control panel also sees this, but again, I am unable to make changes.
> When i try to set windows to "Show desktop only on 2" I hit apply and i get : "Display settings could not be changed, Please try a different combination of display settings"


Flashing blue power LED means the monitor is in Standby and isn't receiving a signal. Do you see any BIOS screens etc at power up?


----------



## jacqg

Sorry guys I have no idea about how the Vesa mounts work and there are so many choices. How do I choose? I have a QNIX panel but I am using a plastic foldable table right now so I don't know if it's okay for me to use a mount even?

I'd just like to ask for advice.

My table:


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacqg*
> 
> Sorry guys I have no idea about how the Vesa mounts work and there are so many choices. How do I choose? I have a QNIX panel but I am using a plastic foldable table right now so I don't know if it's okay for me to use a mount even?
> 
> I'd just like to ask for advice.
> 
> My table:


yeah you could use the same one I use that clips on to a desk/table from mono price i can link it later today.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Just received mine, I'm extremely happy with it, overclocked to 120 Hz like a champ. Loaded a calibration from the first post, looks very good and similar to my calibrated IPS 23".


----------



## Broadband

help needed








got a multi input QNIX and I am trying to overclock. Video card is an

ATI 7950 OC Vapor-X on CCC 13.9
Driver Packaging Version: 13.152.1.8-131008a-163824C-ATI
Got these drivers a couple weeks ago.

Patching the driver is super easy, I get "patch ok" message back. The problems come up when creating the new profile via CRU 1.1
I first began by creating the custom resolution with a refresh of 96 as suggested in this thread (by cloning the default one). Upon restarting (so even before I was able to actually apply this newly created profile via CCC!!!) the screen would turn up black. I could see the Bios phase but then righy before win8 was able to load, I got no signal. Shouldnt CRU just create a new profile that I THEN, after rebooting, I have to apply?

After several attempts, just out of curiousity, i made a new profile IDENTICAL (copy and paste - no editing) to the original one, which is the standar [email protected] Reboot. Same result. Black screen. To make it show somwthing again i need to reset any cry setting by kicking CRU's reset-all.exe.

Am i missing something? Is this expected because this is a multi input which are known to not OC?

Cheers


----------



## Harry604

Does glossy = tempered glass


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broadband*
> 
> help needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got a multi input QNIX and I am trying to overclock. Video card is an
> 
> ATI 7950 OC Vapor-X on CCC 13.9
> Driver Packaging Version: 13.152.1.8-131008a-163824C-ATI
> Got these drivers a couple weeks ago.
> 
> Patching the driver is super easy, I get "patch ok" message back. The problems come up when creating the new profile via CRU 1.1
> I first began by creating the custom resolution with a refresh of 96 as suggested in this thread (by cloning the default one). Upon restarting (so even before I was able to actually apply this newly created profile via CCC!!!) the screen would turn up black. I could see the Bios phase but then righy before win8 was able to load, I got no signal. Shouldnt CRU just create a new profile that I THEN, after rebooting, I have to apply?
> 
> After several attempts, just out of curiousity, i made a new profile IDENTICAL (copy and paste - no editing) to the original one, which is the standar [email protected] Reboot. Same result. Black screen. To make it show somwthing again i need to reset any cry setting by kicking CRU's reset-all.exe.
> 
> Am i missing something? Is this expected because this is a multi input which are known to not OC?
> 
> Cheers


Multi-input are known not to overclock, but they usually do not fail in this manner. Usually they just skip frames, which means they seem to work normally, but the extra frames are only partially displayed - lots of tearing is seen.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Does glossy = tempered glass


No they are both different.......one has a glossy coating an the other has a piece of glass over it......they look similar imo.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> No they are both different.......one has a glossy coating an the other has a piece of glass over it......they look similar imo.


I believe there were several reports on this thread that someone who received a tempered glass model actually had a matte finish beneath it.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Does glossy = tempered glass


Mine is glossy and has NO tempered glass. I have debezeled the monitor so i have confirmed this. It would not be surprising if a couple tempered glass panels got mixed up with straight glossy though.

However i would imagine a matte panel with tempered glass is quite the screw up.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Just an update on my situation. My xstar came with a full row of dead pixels. I got it from Dreamseller on ebay. I messaged him as soon as i found the pixels. He was very responsive and helpful with replies <5 minutes after i would send each message. They gave me instructions for sending it back to Korea and they paid for shipping. Once they get it back i assume they are gonna give me a refund or maybe send me another one. either way i would be happy as long as i end up with one of these monitors.

Ill prolly end up ordering from dream seller again once i get the money back because the return experience was so good, and i feel like the dead pixel was just bad luck because many people got near perfect monitors from him.

Id really be fine even if there was 5-10 dead pixels, but a whole row is 1440 dead pixels lol. Just bad luck on my part.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Mine is glossy and has NO tempered glass. I have debezeled the monitor so i have confirmed this. It would not be surprising if a couple tempered glass panels got mixed up with straight glossy though.
> 
> However i would imagine a matte panel with tempered glass is quite the screw up.


Indeed. Mine is also glossy but i have left the tempered glass on


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Just tried the tape mod, used one layer around all edges, black electrical tape. It seems to have reduced it a bit on the bottom, but it did nothing to the bleed on the right side. What do?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> However i would imagine a matte panel with tempered glass is quite the screw up.


I think someone posted about receiving a tempered glass monitor over a matte screen earlier in the thread.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Just an update on my situation. My xstar came with a full row of dead pixels. I got it from Dreamseller on ebay. I messaged him as soon as i found the pixels. He was very responsive and helpful with replies <5 minutes after i would send each message. They gave me instructions for sending it back to Korea and they paid for shipping. Once they get it back i assume they are gonna give me a refund or maybe send me another one. either way i would be happy as long as i end up with one of these monitors.
> 
> Ill prolly end up ordering from dream seller again once i get the money back because the return experience was so good, and i feel like the dead pixel was just bad luck because many people got near perfect monitors from him.
> 
> Id really be fine even if there was 5-10 dead pixels, but a whole row is 1440 dead pixels lol. Just bad luck on my part.


This is good to know becasue I am about to pull the trigger on an Xstar from dreamseller. Sounds like they are good to deal with. Thanks for the heads up. Good luck man, I hope it all works out for you.


----------



## Ghost12

Must be a few weeks since I replaced my pcb, received an email today from the seller requesting I return the defective one lol, no mention of postage cost from the Uk to Korea, safe to say it was thrown in the bin then.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Must be a few weeks since I replaced my pcb, received an email today from the seller requesting I return the defective one lol, no mention of postage cost from the Uk to Korea, safe to say it was thrown in the bin then.


Yeah they really want those pcb's, they really wanted the monitor that I received damaged back and I had no idea why at the time. Must have wanted to take the pcb out of it.


----------



## Shepardg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Flashing blue power LED means the monitor is in Standby and isn't receiving a signal. Do you see any BIOS screens etc at power up?


Hey, thanks for the response

I'm a bit hung over, got taken to the cops station last night, bought a rose for like 20$, my buddy got his eye dumb'd up, so bare with my grammatical schenangians.

I have a sager 9390 (core i7 3980?, 32g ram, 160+250SSD, 780gtx, blu-ray burner, etc.)

I am not seeing any bios or anything from the monitor itself on startup.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shepardg*
> 
> Hey, thanks for the response
> 
> I'm a bit hung over, got taken to the cops station last night, bought a rose for like 20$, my buddy got his eye dumb'd up, so bare with my grammatical schenangians.
> 
> I have a sager 9390 (core i7 3980?, 32g ram, 160+250SSD, 780gtx, blu-ray burner, etc.)
> 
> I am not seeing any bios or anything from the monitor itself on startup.


No worries, it sounds like you're having a real adventure there.









That card fully supports dual link dvi so maybe try a different cable if you can and check the connections are ok.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Must be a few weeks since I replaced my pcb, received an email today from the seller requesting I return the defective one lol, no mention of postage cost from the Uk to Korea, safe to say it was thrown in the bin then.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah they really want those pcb's, they really wanted the monitor that I received damaged back and I had no idea why at the time. Must have wanted to take the pcb out of it.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Must be a few weeks since I replaced my pcb, received an email today from the seller requesting I return the defective one lol, no mention of postage cost from the Uk to Korea, safe to say it was thrown in the bin then.


so, they replaced it, but you're not decent enough to return the part? did you pay to get the new one shipped to you? if no, then it's only fair for you to return the damaged.

..and people wonder why sellers don't always work with people to resolve problems.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

I got sent out a replacement PCB too, also got asked to return it. Haven't got around to trying the new one yet though.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> *so, they replaced it,* *but you're not decent enough to return the part? did you pay to get the new one shipped to you? if no, then it's only fair for you to return the damaged.
> *
> ..and people wonder why sellers don't always work with people to resolve problems.


This post made me lol. Fyi, they were not doing me a favour by replacing my pcb. I bought a product from them that was faulty ( lasted 48hrs), which took them near on 7 weeks to resolve. Their resolution was for me to replace my own pcb ( they should really have had to pay return shipping on the screen and replacement as a whole), if the screen was not from half way across the world this would not be an acceptable solution. They replaced it now going on a month ago, no mention of returning the pcb at the time of conversation. You think I should have to pay for the postage on return???? shoddy customer service companies must love you and your ideology. I paid for a fully working product (generic faults accepted), at no point in that process should I have to fix it myself or incur extra financial penalty.


----------



## drdrache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *drdrache*
> 
> *so, they replaced it,* *but you're not decent enough to return the part? did you pay to get the new one shipped to you? if no, then it's only fair for you to return the damaged.
> *
> ..and people wonder why sellers don't always work with people to resolve problems.
> 
> 
> 
> This post made me lol. Fyi, they were not doing me a favour by replacing my pcb. I bought a product from them that was faulty ( lasted 48hrs), which took them near on 7 weeks to resolve. Their resolution was for me to replace my own pcb ( they should really have had to pay return shipping on the screen and replacement as a whole), if the screen was not from half way across the world this would not be an acceptable solution. They replaced it now going on a month ago, no mention of returning the pcb at the time of conversation. You think I should have to pay for the postage on return???? shoddy customer service companies must love you and your ideology. I paid for a fully working product (generic faults accepted), at no point in that process should I have to fix it myself or incur extra financial penalty.
Click to expand...

well, part of my statement was incorrect not knowing the history, just based on the one comment, sorry for that. but, I guess that makes it ok for you to damn my ideology of "doing the right thing, even if someone else doesn't"
we all paid for a working product with the much higher chance of defects. with the known possibility that returning/fixing may cost more than it's worth. that's the known "korean monitor lottery" if you didn't sign up for that, sorry for your bad luck. next time buy from a big brand. (with, amazingly, a lottery of defects)


----------



## Moragg

What? Main thing here is he should not be out-of-pocket, I'm fairly sure he'd have returned it if it the seller gave him the money to do so - up front, because it'd be incredibly hard to get it out of them otherwise.


----------



## rcoolb2002

I am unable to load color profiles.

I have done quite a bit of searching, but under my color management the only options are printers.

According to microsoft this is because a "third party software" is controlling the color management. I have not found any color management profiles available in CCC, and im pretty sure others here have CCC and are able to load the ICC profiles.

Any ideas?


----------



## NeuronJN




----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Yeah they really want those pcb's, they really wanted the monitor that I received damaged back and I had no idea why at the time. Must have wanted to take the pcb out of it.


They need it back because they will RMA the bad parts to their venders which they will then get reimbursed. Also they might need physical proof that the monitor was damaged during shipping since their insurance will cover the damages. Usually we just have the customer take pictures and send them to our shipping company but there are salvageable parts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost12*
> 
> This post made me lol. Fyi, they were not doing me a favour by replacing my pcb. I bought a product from them that was faulty ( lasted 48hrs), which took them near on 7 weeks to resolve. Their resolution was for me to replace my own pcb ( they should really have had to pay return shipping on the screen and replacement as a whole), if the screen was not from half way across the world this would not be an acceptable solution. They replaced it now going on a month ago, no mention of returning the pcb at the time of conversation. You think I should have to pay for the postage on return???? shoddy customer service companies must love you and your ideology. I paid for a fully working product (generic faults accepted), at no point in that process should I have to fix it myself or incur extra financial penalty.


They should have taken care of you not everyone knows or should know how to repair these. I understand some people aren't as technically inclines as others. I had my LED driver in my crossover 27Q fail since the mosfet overheated. This was at 4 months of use and granted I bought the 27Q when it first came out about 2 years ago. No one online had any problems at all and could not find a company that sold the led driver exactly for the LG-S-IPS panel. I emailed AW pictures of the failed mosfet on the pcb and demanded a new REV of the previous engineered design. I even stated that I will not accept another REV 00 led driver. I told them that I work on monitors on a daily basis and will be replacing it myself. They sent me a new REV of the LED driver over night. I was very happy how they handled it. Luckily I work on monitors/industrial computers everyday and replaced it myself within a few minutes. I also could have ordered a new one from my work but shouldn't have to pay a dime since it was under the 1 year warranty.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> I am unable to load color profiles.
> 
> I have done quite a bit of searching, but under my color management the only options are printers.
> 
> According to microsoft this is because a "third party software" is controlling the color management. I have not found any color management profiles available in CCC, and im pretty sure others here have CCC and are able to load the ICC profiles.
> 
> Any ideas?


If its saying third party program is being used for color management such as your video driver. Have you ran through the windows built in calibration wizard? If yes it should have created a profile for your monitor unless you have another program installed that is controlling color management.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeuronJN*


Are those the QNIX evo II? Not bad. I kind of liked the glossy LG panel on the crossover over matte. I just sold my crossover 27Q last night and currently using a hansg at 1080p. I can't believe how cheap these monitors are now. I remember paying over $400 the crossover. Unfortunately I have been without a debit card for 2 weeks now! My bank just shipped me a new one with pin. Can't wait until its here so I can buy one of these, miss the high res.


----------



## The Storm

Well after countless hours reading up on these monitors and coming to the conclusion like everyone has already stated many times over that the Qnix and Xstar are the same panel just different names, I pulled the trigger. I found dreamseller has a run on the Xstar Matte versions for $279, I couldnt resist the temptation any longer. I also decided to add the square trade 3yr warranty for $41.99, not bad for $320 total, even if I dont get a full 120 overclock on it I will be satisfied if it doesnt have dead pixels. Now I need to decide to keep my 27" samsung 1080p and set it off to the side or just sell it...decisions decisions.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Well after countless hours reading up on these monitors and coming to the conclusion like everyone has already stated many times over that the Qnix and Xstar are the same panel just different names, I pulled the trigger. I found dreamseller has a run on the Xstar Matte versions for $279, I couldnt resist the temptation any longer. I also decided to add the square trade 3yr warranty for $41.99, not bad for $320 total, even if I dont get a full 120 overclock on it I will be satisfied if it doesnt have dead pixels. Now I need to decide to keep my 27" samsung 1080p and set it off to the side or just sell it...decisions decisions.


Once you see the Xstar i'm tipping you will sell the samsung.. and grab another Xstar or Qnix if you need a 2nd monitor lol.


----------



## xGHOSTx

I'm wondering why the glossy versions are priced higher than the matte with some sellers. I already have the QNIX matte/semi gloss version which looks good btw. I wanted to buy a glossy one first, but the matte was cheaper and they were being offered as perfect pixel.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGHOSTx*
> 
> I'm wondering why the glossy versions are priced higher than the matte with some sellers. I already have the QNIX matte/semi gloss version which looks good btw. I wanted to buy a glossy one first, but the matte was cheaper and they were being offered as perfect pixel.


IMO the glossy protective layer looks much clearer than the matte. Matt finish is going to look a little fuzzier than glossy.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Once you see the Xstar i'm tipping you will sell the samsung.. and grab another Xstar or Qnix if you need a 2nd monitor lol.


I'm astonished how much you like these Korean monitors over the other branded monitors, having gone through so many before settling on these. Even without the overclocking, too, which you did only recently. Would you go into detail as to why you prefer these over all the other branded monitors? It would surely be interesting to read, given that these are cheaper, have practically no input lag, AND overclock.

I have a Qnix myself but have no other branded 1440p monitors to compare to but based on what I see in front of me, a beautiful display that responded well to hardware calibration.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I'm astonished how much you like these Korean monitors over the other branded monitors, having gone through so many before settling on these. Even without the overclocking, too, which you did only recently. Would you go into detail as to why you prefer these over all the other branded monitors? It would surely be interesting to read, given that these are cheaper, have practically no input lag, AND overclock.
> 
> I have a Qnix myself but have no other branded 1440p monitors to compare to but based on what I see in front of me, a beautiful display that responded well to hardware calibration.


cheaper, have practically no input lag, AND overclock. I think thats all the info anyone needs. I mean I just sold my crossover 27Q so I could run this QNIX at 120Hz. Same type of panel technology as LG, reliable, from what I've been reading no problems with video board or led driver, overclockable to 120Hz, cheapest. (QNIX) The reason why these smaller korean companies are the way to go is because they are the same panels DELL, HP, LG and Apple cinema use for a third of the price. The only difference is the video board kit manufacture which all are made in korea anyways. They are all made overseas. Really smart to what they did. Basically design their own bezel, chassis, stand, buy the panel and find a manufacture that makes a video board kit compatible with the panel (led driver, video board and osd with cabling included) Monitors don't take much time to assemble either esspecially if every cable is included and you dont have to spend time crimping pins, making lvds cables etc.


----------



## motorwayne

Hi there, do the Radeon R9 290X cards work well with the Qnix monitors at 96+Hz?

Cheers, trying to decide on the R9 290X or a GTX 780 classified

Motorwayne


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> cheaper, have practically no input lag, AND overclock. I think thats all the info anyone needs. I mean I just sold my crossover 27Q so I could run this QNIX at 120Hz. Same type of panel technology as LG, reliable, from what I've been reading no problems with video board or led driver, overclockable to 120Hz, cheapest. (QNIX) The reason why these smaller korean companies are the way to go is because they are the same panels DELL, HP, LG and Apple cinema use for a third of the price. The only difference is the video board kit manufacture which all are made in korea anyways. They are all made overseas. Really smart to what they did. Basically design their own bezel, chassis, stand, buy the panel and find a manufacture that makes a video board kit compatible with the panel (led driver, video board and osd with cabling included) Monitors don't take much time to assemble either esspecially if every cable is included and you dont have to spend time crimping pins, making lvds cables etc.


I did think, when writing that, that I basically covered 90% of the answer to my question LOL

Think is, he seems more of a color nut (I became one a while ago), so it seems his fascination stems from other areas as well, as before he even overclocked, it was a keeper.

These sellers are obviously on to a big thing, and when 4K becomes mainstream, I hope they're still there to give us the same fantastic deals and maybe even be the first to offer 4K 120Hz. But with the current trends I bet this time around it would be a standard thing to do anyways.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I did think, when writing that, that I basically covered 90% of the answer to my question LOL
> 
> Think is, he seems more of a color nut (I became one a while ago), so it seems his fascination stems from other areas as well, as before he even overclocked, it was a keeper.
> 
> These sellers are obviously on to a big thing, and when 4K becomes mainstream, I hope they're still there to give us the same fantastic deals and maybe even be the first to offer 4K 120Hz. But with the current trends I bet this time around it would be a standard thing to do anyways.


Yeah, your right, i'm a nut when it comes to any tv/monitor. I sent my girlfriend nuts with me before i got the spyder elite lol. I honestly bought the Qnix with low expectations, just hoping. I have come to the conclusion that i either had a really bad asus pb278q or i have a really good Qnix. Also the only other monitor which i was satisfied with out of about the last 10 i have had in the past 12 months was the dell s2240l which is also glossy and tempered glass, i liked them so much i bought 3 for eyefinity but with monitors being the way they are the quality control on them was terrible and literally all 3 were different sizes and the first 1 i got was better than the rest and a single 22 incher was just to small for my setup.

So to answer the question, for me it's a combination of the glossy and tempered glass, the black levels are great which i have had issues with nearly every other monitor including the asus with details being crushed in dark areas making it impossible for battlefield etc, the colors are great when calibrated, it's 1440p obviously , 1080p on this looks substantially better than on the asus as well, and the 96hz doesn't hurt either. Honestly i expected this performance from the asus.

It's early sunday morning and i haven't slept lol so i'm sorry if i rambled on or it didn't make sense, from my experience your not missing anything over owning a asus, i haven't seen the dell 1440p in action or the samsung but i THINK the samsung is a glossy tempered glass using this panel so it would look nearly identical i would imagine.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yeah, your right, i'm a nut when it comes to any tv/monitor. I sent my girlfriend nuts with me before i got the spyder elite lol. I honestly bought the Qnix with low expectations, just hoping. I have come to the conclusion that i either had a really bad asus pb278q or i have a really good Qnix. Also the only other monitor which i was satisfied with out of about the last 10 i have had in the past 12 months was the dell s2240l which is also glossy and tempered glass, i liked them so much i bought 3 for eyefinity but with monitors being the way they are the quality control on them was terrible and literally all 3 were different sizes and the first 1 i got was better than the rest and a single 22 incher was just to small for my setup.
> 
> So to answer the question, for me it's a combination of the glossy and tempered glass, the black levels are great which i have had issues with nearly every other monitor including the asus with details being crushed in dark areas making it impossible for battlefield etc, the colors are great when calibrated, it's 1440p obviously , 1080p on this looks substantially better than on the asus as well, and the 96hz doesn't hurt either. Honestly i expected this performance from the asus.
> 
> It's early sunday morning and i haven't slept lol so i'm sorry if i rambled on or it didn't make sense, from my experience your not missing anything over owning a asus, i haven't seen the dell 1440p in action or the samsung but i THINK the samsung is a glossy tempered glass using this panel so it would look nearly identical i would imagine.


Interesting... I was actually considering the PB278Q up till now, then thought about looking for a 1440p @ 120hz capable (or close) monitor and after reading up found that these monitors are rated amongst the highest quality of being able to do so.

I'm a huge fan of gloss as I've been sporting HP w2338h's x 4 for the past 4 years. No BLB and perfect blacks across them as well as nice colors. I'm looking to upgrade to a 27" and wondering which of these panels offers the best in gloss/color capabilities, as well as I hear they're guaranteed to at least hit 100hz which I'm sure the diff between 100 and 120 is barely noticeable vice 60/120.

Originally was going to go overlord but I hear better reviews here.

Also Tempered glass vs gloss? Or is it a combined thing or what's the difference?

What I"m doing with the monitors?

Gaming , editing, work , drawing ( comics / characters, other ) 3D , and other things.

Looking @ hooking them on this http://www.wsgf.org/products/freedom-wsgf-edition-ultimate-desk-stand horizontally of course.

Any info or suggestions on which QNIX brand to get would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## jay40u

So hesitant to buy one because I've read some people having their monitors die within 6 months to 1 year.
Not being very technical, it would be a pain to try and fix it myself. I know there'd be no chance of the seller honouring warranty on eBay after the 2 months of negative feedback being past - or past their 30 day policy. So now the question is is half price worth the risk of a panel breaking down..
The thread is huge and just wondering if anyone else has had their monitors for a while and it's broken down and what you did? Just take it as a loss and purchase another one?

The price is just too attractive, I guess if I buy one and it breaks down I'll go for a pb278q for $600, and the $300 qnix will go down the drain.
But then again if it works, it's a saving of $300 and maybe I could buy another one 6 months later lol!

Also when I click on the guide to overclock to have a read of what it consists of, nothing happens :/


----------



## dante`afk

Anyone else experiencing this?

When running movies on Amazon.com (I believe the player uses Microsoft Silverlight) and running on 120hz on the Qnix, the screen just shows snowflakes. I have to restart the PC and turn back to 60hz to make it work.


----------



## Kokin

Try turning off hardware acceleration (both Flash and browser). The driver patch breaks my hardware acceleration when playing flash videos, so simply disabling this makes them work again.


----------



## rcoolb2002

OH yeah baby


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> 
> 
> OH yeah baby


Nice work. I did that with my samsung 120fps monitor, it makes pr0n look real









Do you have the tutorial handy? lol.


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Nice work. I did that with my samsung 120fps monitor, it makes pr0n look real
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the tutorial handy? lol.


Tutorial for which portion. If you are happy with MPC-HC then you can just download the entire package from SVP. If you use potplayer or something else then yeah there are a few more steps.

Looks very good on this monitor, but now all my 720p rips looks like crap haha.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> Tutorial for which portion. If you are happy with MPC-HC then you can just download the entire package from SVP. If you use potplayer or something else then yeah there are a few more steps.
> 
> Looks very good on this monitor, but now all my 720p rips looks like crap haha.


This is the best most in depth tutorial i have ever found regarding madvr + LAV + SVP(syth) + ffdshow optimization. Now there are several other tweaks i do for my system in madvr but the tutorial gets you to a pretty good starting point. The rest is your preference and tinkering.

http://www.ezoden.com/684/tutorial-htpc


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This is the best most in depth tutorial i have ever found regarding madvr + LAV + SVP(syth) + ffdshow optimization. Now there are several other tweaks i do for my system in madvr but the tutorial gets you to a pretty good starting point. The rest is your preference and tinkering.
> 
> http://www.ezoden.com/684/tutorial-htpc


Awesome link, I've just started playing with madvr and this will help a lot. +rep


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This is the best most in depth tutorial i have ever found regarding madvr + LAV + SVP(syth) + ffdshow optimization. Now there are several other tweaks i do for my system in madvr but the tutorial gets you to a pretty good starting point. The rest is your preference and tinkering.
> 
> http://www.ezoden.com/684/tutorial-htpc


Nice work. I knew it would be appreciated in here lol.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Interesting... I was actually considering the PB278Q up till now, then thought about looking for a 1440p @ 120hz capable (or close) monitor and after reading up found that these monitors are rated amongst the highest quality of being able to do so.
> 
> I'm a huge fan of gloss as I've been sporting HP w2338h's x 4 for the past 4 years. No BLB and perfect blacks across them as well as nice colors. I'm looking to upgrade to a 27" and wondering which of these panels offers the best in gloss/color capabilities, as well as I hear they're guaranteed to at least hit 100hz which I'm sure the diff between 100 and 120 is barely noticeable vice 60/120.
> 
> Originally was going to go overlord but I hear better reviews here.
> 
> Also Tempered glass vs gloss? Or is it a combined thing or what's the difference?
> 
> What I"m doing with the monitors?
> 
> Gaming , editing, work , drawing ( comics / characters, other ) 3D , and other things.
> 
> Looking @ hooking them on this http://www.wsgf.org/products/freedom-wsgf-edition-ultimate-desk-stand horizontally of course.
> 
> Any info or suggestions on which QNIX brand to get would be greatly appreciated.


I also own a PB278q which I use for my second PC... I can tell you this if it helps...after gaming on both I defiantly prefer the Qnix...just because of the almost no input lag and the fact that I can run 80hz makes it feel a lot smoother....also once you use the color profile the Qnix isn't to far off..it gets a ltitle darker but nothing that you cant adjust to.

Anyways hope that helps also Newegg sales them now lol so you can from newegg..


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> I also own a PB278q which I use for my second PC... I can tell you this if it helps...after gaming on both I defiantly prefer the Qnix...just because of the almost no input lag and the fact that I can run 80hz makes it feel a lot smoother....also once you use the color profile the Qnix isn't to far off..it gets a ltitle darker but nothing that you cant adjust to.
> 
> Anyways hope that helps also Newegg sales them now lol so you can from newegg..


Thank you, which of the Qnix's are most recommended for both gaming/everyday work/artwork (drawing, comics, etc )
I prefer gloss if possible. Also saw the Debezel thread and really intrigued.

I'd probably buy 1 first then slowly move to 2 more they're cheap so it makes an easy decision to at least test. I'm currently using 4x HP w2338h's and love them, but I really want to move up to 27"


----------



## shhhpark

hey guys i was wondering if anyone has ordered in the ny/nj area and who might be the fastest shipping wise? I really want it to come before thanksgiving possibly this coming week would be awesome. thanks!


----------



## chenw87

I purchased a QNIX monitor about 3 months ago. Today, I was using it and all of a sudden, the screen shut off. Now I can't get it to turn back on







Anyone seen this before?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chenw87*
> 
> I purchased a QNIX monitor about 3 months ago. Today, I was using it and all of a sudden, the screen shut off. Now I can't get it to turn back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone seen this before?


You should provide more detail.

Was it overclocked and if so, what to?
Was it on 24/7 or did you have it turn off during idle time?
What graphics card are you using?
Does it work on any other computer or graphics card?


----------



## chenw87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> You should provide more detail.
> 
> Was it overclocked and if so, what to?
> Was it on 24/7 or did you have it turn off during idle time?
> What graphics card are you using?
> Does it work on any other computer or graphics card?


Sorry, here's some more information. Let me know if you need anything else.

Not overclocked.
It was not on 24/7. I have my monitor set to shut off after 5 minutes idle. I also shut down my PC at night and the monitor goes in to standby mode (flashing light).
GeForce GTX260.
The issue is that it doesn't even power on. I have tried other outlets and leaving it unplugged for a while but it didn't help. This is the same behavior regardless of whether or not a DVI cable is plugged in.


----------



## Kokin

Hmm I haven't really seen anyone have this issue and I've been reading all the posts in this thread for a few months now. It's possible your power brick went bad (since it gets so hot), but it could also be related to the monitor itself.

You should wait for someone else to chime in, but otherwise it may be worth trying to buy another power brick with an input of 100~240V 1.2A and output of 12V 5A (60W). Power bricks tend to have different adapters, so bring your broken one if you decide to buy one so you can match up the plugs.


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shhhpark*
> 
> hey guys i was wondering if anyone has ordered in the ny/nj area and who might be the fastest shipping wise? I really want it to come before thanksgiving possibly this coming week would be awesome. thanks!


Overclockmonitor.com is located in the US, and NewEgg has also started carrying these monitors. I think those are your two best options within the US. However, mine arrived in only 6 days to PA from Korea haha.

Edit: Also Amazon, except I'm not sure if Newegg and Amazon will actually ship from the US or if they're just a middleman for Korean sellers


----------



## chenw87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hmm I haven't really seen anyone have this issue and I've been reading all the posts in this thread for a few months now. It's possible your power brick went bad (since it gets so hot), but it could also be related to the monitor itself.
> 
> You should wait for someone else to chime in, but otherwise it may be worth trying to buy another power brick with an input of 100~240V 1.2A and output of 12V 5A (60W). Power bricks tend to have different adapters, so bring your broken one if you decide to buy one so you can match up the plugs.


Thanks. The LED on the power brick lights up when I plug it in but that may not mean anything. I'll see if I can find a replacement although I'm not even sure where to find one.


----------



## noogai93

I still havent found a solution to bsod with OC'd screens in nvidia surround. Could anyone help me with this issue ?

Specs:
3x xstar oc'd to 100Hz
2x nvidia gtx 670 sli
331.65 drivers (full-patch)
windows 8 pro 64bit

Nvidia surround will work at 60hz, but as soon as i force it to use 100hz in cru (by making 100hz the only option) i get a bsod
when trying to enable surround.


----------



## mboner1

I'm thinking i might go crossfire soon, is there anything different that needs to be done in regards to the over clock when you add a 2nd GPU?


----------



## DiceAir

Anyone else having this issue where the dektop lags @ 60Hz but on 96Hz it's fine. it feels like frame skipping but it's not. my Mouse cursor feels very laggy and so on. hard to explain. BTW I'm on crossfire R9-280x cards


----------



## Kokin

Maybe you've gotten used to the 96Hz on the desktop, so that anything slower "feels" like lag.

I keep my Qnix constantly at 120Hz, but I have a 60Hz IPS monitor right next to it and everything on that monitor feels very slow if I'm moving programs around (mouse as well).


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Maybe you've gotten used to the 96Hz on the desktop, so that anything slower "feels" like lag.
> 
> I keep my Qnix constantly at 120Hz, but I have a 60Hz IPS monitor right next to it and everything on that monitor feels very slow if I'm moving programs around (mouse as well).


But at work I'm using a normal 1080p 60Hz screen and it feels much smoother.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> But at work I'm using a normal 1080p 60Hz screen and it feels much smoother.


Yeah i had that issue after applying the overclock the first time i went back planning on using 60hz again but in bf3 everything was hella jittery. Thought it must be just me. Switched back to 96hz and haven't really given it a second thought now tho tbh.


----------



## bullet beard

Hey folks - been reading this thread for a few weeks and finally decided to take the plunge









Got my QNIX ordered from "excellentcastle" last night for £199.98 with free shipping. I live in Scotland, so there will be import tax. Asked him to mark it as a gift with a value of £50 (didn't want to be too unrealistic), which he said he would. Fingers crossed!

Anyways, very excited now







I've always had a TN panel and never used anything over 1920x1080, I feel like a kid on Christmas eve...

I've got an option to add a SquareTrade 3 year warranty for £30. It says I can buy the warranty up to 30 days after purchasing the monitor. Anyone in the UK have experience with this in regards to these monitors?

The only draw back at the moment is that I run two MSI 7970 Lightning cards - and they DO NOT have dual link DVI ports







I have no idea if I can overclock my QNIX using an active DisplayPort to dual link DVI adapter, but I don't want to spend £80 on an adapter to find out. Any advice? In the mean time I got my hands on a cheap EVGA GTX 680, while I decide what to do with my GPUs. May sell them both and pick up a 7xx.

I do love new tech







Will let you know how my back light bleed etc is.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yeah i had that issue after applying the overclock the first time i went back planning on using 60hz again but in bf3 everything was hella jittery. Thought it must be just me. Switched back to 96hz and haven't really given it a second thought now tho tbh.


Just funny cause my monitor at work feels smoother. i can see the mouse cursor on my screen is laggy. It looks like frame skipping etc etc. i hope I haven't damaged the monitor by overclocking it. For now i will leave it at 96hz but it's just funny that i get this issue.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Just funny cause my monitor at work feels smoother. i can see the mouse cursor on my screen is laggy. It looks like frame skipping etc etc. i hope I haven't damaged the monitor by overclocking it. For now i will leave it at 96hz but it's just funny that i get this issue.


Yeah it was definitely noticeable for me as well, i thought the laser on my mouse was stuffed or something. 96hz looks a lot better than the original 60hz anyway so i say just overclock it and forget about it.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bullet beard*
> 
> Hey folks - been reading this thread for a few weeks and finally decided to take the plunge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my QNIX ordered from "excellentcastle" last night for £199.98 with free shipping. I live in Scotland, so there will be import tax. Asked him to mark it as a gift with a value of £50 (didn't want to be too unrealistic), which he said he would. Fingers crossed!
> 
> Anyways, very excited now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've always had a TN panel and never used anything over 1920x1080, I feel like a kid on Christmas eve...
> 
> I've got an option to add a SquareTrade 3 year warranty for £30. It says I can buy the warranty up to 30 days after purchasing the monitor. Anyone in the UK have experience with this in regards to these monitors?
> 
> The only draw back at the moment is that I run two MSI 7970 Lightning cards - and they DO NOT have dual link DVI ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea if I can overclock my QNIX using an active DisplayPort to dual link DVI adapter, but I don't want to spend £80 on an adapter to find out. Any advice? In the mean time I got my hands on a cheap EVGA GTX 680, while I decide what to do with my GPUs. May sell them both and pick up a 7xx.
> 
> I do love new tech
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will let you know how my back light bleed etc is.


Are you sure? Those are pretty modern cards (and newer than mine in fact) so I'd be really surprised if they didn't support dual-link DVI.


----------



## bullet beard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Are you sure? Those are pretty modern cards (and newer than mine in fact) so I'd be really surprised if they didn't support dual-link DVI.


Unfortunately, yeah







Have a look, Hilbert mentions it most of the way down the page:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_radeon_hd_7970_lightning_review,3.html


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bullet beard*
> 
> Unfortunately, yeah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look, Hilbert mentions it most of the way down the page:
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_radeon_hd_7970_lightning_review,3.html


I thought the bottom-right port on the 3rd screenshot down was dual-link DVI. That's exactly what the port on my card looks like anyway but the plug on the DL-DVI cable looks like a male version of the DVI port at the top (if that makes sense).

I wonder if an updated BIOS for the card could help with that, it seems quite weird to me.

With regards to your other questions, I ordered mine from ExcellentCastle and the customs charges were around £17 (£10 of that was the courier "admin" fee). DHL sent me a text about that straight away and I'd already paid them online before the monitor even left Incheon.

I have purchased the ST warranty for it as well and submitted the receipt with no problem but obviously I haven't needed to claim on it yet and hopefully won't ever need to at all.


----------



## bullet beard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> I thought the bottom-right port on the 3rd screenshot down was dual-link DVI. That's exactly what the port on my card looks like anyway but the plug on the DL-DVI cable looks like a male version of the DVI port at the top (if that makes sense).
> 
> I wonder if an updated BIOS for the card could help with that, it seems quite weird to me.
> 
> With regards to your other questions, I ordered mine from ExcellentCastle and the customs charges were around £17 (£10 of that was the courier "admin" fee). DHL sent me a text about that straight away and I'd already paid them online before the monitor even left Incheon.
> 
> I have purchased the ST warranty for it as well and submitted the receipt with no problem but obviously I haven't needed to claim on it yet and hopefully won't ever need to at all.


I've had a look around, there's no BIOS update or anything to change it to a dual link port, it seems to be a hardware limitation. Time to sell them I think!







Anyone want them?









Seems like you got pretty low customs charges - did excellentcastle mark your monitor as a gift with a certain value? Haven't heard anything from DHL yet...

Have been hearing some good things about SquareTrade, so I Think I'll pick up the warranty once the monitor gets here.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bullet beard*
> 
> I've had a look around, there's no BIOS update or anything to change it to a dual link port, it seems to be a hardware limitation. Time to sell them I think!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone want them?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like you got pretty low customs charges - did excellentcastle mark your monitor as a gift with a certain value? Haven't heard anything from DHL yet...
> 
> Have been hearing some good things about SquareTrade, so I Think I'll pick up the warranty once the monitor gets here.


I would test it out with those cards first man. Just doesn't sound right, i mean the dual link dvi port is right there lol. Not saying that review is wrong, but i would sure double check before selling them off at a loss.

Not a fan of the msi 7970's tho. Had 1, it was trash.


----------



## bullet beard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I would test it out with those cards first man. Just doesn't sound right, i mean the dual link dvi port is right there lol. Not saying that review is wrong, but i would sure double check before selling them off at a loss.
> 
> Not a fan of the msi 7970's tho. Had 1, it was trash.


Aye, I'll give it a go before I sell them. However putting "7970 lightning dual link DVI" into Google comes up with nothing but reviewers and customers complaining about the lack of dual link DVI on the card. Bit of a silly decision from MSI...


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bullet beard*
> 
> I've had a look around, there's no BIOS update or anything to change it to a dual link port, it seems to be a hardware limitation. Time to sell them I think!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone want them?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like you got pretty low customs charges - did excellentcastle mark your monitor as a gift with a certain value? Haven't heard anything from DHL yet...
> 
> Have been hearing some good things about SquareTrade, so I Think I'll pick up the warranty once the monitor gets here.


I've PM'd you.

+1 on testing the cards before getting rid of them. They're really modern cards and the idea that they wouldn't work with this monitor due to some manufacturing flaw doesn't sound quite right. Worst case is that you can always try to sell them on later anyway. Maybe just try one first as well without the CrossFire.


----------



## Ghost12

That is really strange regards the Msi 7970 connection, I had crossfire 7870 and they have dual link dvi.


----------



## bullet beard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> I've PM'd you.
> 
> +1 on testing the cards before getting rid of them. They're really modern cards and the idea that they wouldn't work with this monitor due to some manufacturing flaw doesn't sound quite right. Worst case is that you can always try to sell them on later anyway. Maybe just try one first as well without the CrossFire.


I should have gone straight to the MSI website to begin with. The cards definitely only have single link DVI ports.

http://uk.msi.com/product/vga/R7970-Lightning.html


----------



## DiceAir

Just another question. If I overclock it to 110Hz I can actually do that but when switched on I get some buzzing then go away. Do i risk damaging it or don't I have to worry about the buzzing sound and just leave it at 110Hz?


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bullet beard*
> 
> I should have gone straight to the MSI website to begin with. The cards definitely only have single link DVI ports.
> 
> http://uk.msi.com/product/vga/R7970-Lightning.html


Dependant on your own personal preferences then I guess you have two choices. Sell them and get a new card (or cards) now before your monitor arrives from Korea or wait to test them but risk possibly waiting an extra day or two if the cards don't work and you need to buy an alternative.

Fortunately DHL usually deliver the monitors from Seoul to the UK major cities in 3-4 days.


----------



## dmikester1

FYI, buy.com is giving 20x cashback today. So if you buy the QNIX for $329 from here -> http://www.rakuten.com/prod/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-ll-matte-screen-27-2560x1440-samsung-pls/256201243.html , you will get over $65 in buy.com bucks to spend as you wish. I am very very tempted to pull the trigger on that. I don't see any warranty details though. I'm assuming standard 1 year warranty?

Oh yeah, plus another $16.xx for using my Discover card!


----------



## LunaP

So after some discussion w/ another last night pulled the trigger on a brand new X Star off amazon for about 360$ From what I"m told QNIX/XSTAR the DP2170 is the same model and I got the gloss one. Should be arriving in less than 2 days apparently o__o crazyness since it's coming from Korea.

Gonna test this baby out w/ my Titans and see how she goes, if I like it I'll grab 2 more


----------



## Lacertia

Finally got mine qnix after a week of painful waiting.

Absolutely perfect no dead/stuck pixals. The most Minor BLB at the top left. Wonderful screen, Love it. Beautiful!!!.


----------



## LunaP

Just to make sure, I notice people are only buying QNIX monitors lately, have they released something over the Xstar or are they still the same models?


----------



## jacqg

I just wanna follow up on which VESA stand to buy with a plastic table and also, how do you guys clean this?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Just funny cause my monitor at work feels smoother. i can see the mouse cursor on my screen is laggy. It looks like frame skipping etc etc. i hope I haven't damaged the monitor by overclocking it. For now i will leave it at 96hz but it's just funny that i get this issue.


Cursor stutter bug on AMD drivers @ 60Hz. Had the same since 13.8 Beta 2 up till 13.11 Beta 8 where it disappeared for me. At 96Hz and 120Hz there is no stuttering cursor. It's not that the higher refresh rates feel sufficiently smoother to not notice cursor stutter, there *is* no stutter at higher refresh rates.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So after some discussion w/ another last night pulled the trigger on a brand new X Star off amazon for about 360$ From what I"m told QNIX/XSTAR the DP2170 is the same model and I got the gloss one. Should be arriving in less than 2 days apparently o__o crazyness since it's coming from Korea.
> 
> Gonna test this baby out w/ my Titans and see how she goes, if I like it I'll grab 2 more


Congrats and yes they are the same. My X star is on its way as we speak. Managed $279 on ebay from dreamseller. I added the 3 yr warranty from square trade too.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Congrats and yes they are the same. My X star is on its way as we speak. Managed $279 on ebay from dreamseller. I added the 3 yr warranty from square trade too.


Thanks I might try them if this one proves itself







still amazed it can arrive that fast from Korea, I swear EMS = 3-5 days, but it's 1-2 its stating  no idea how they get away w/ that.


----------



## Beatwolf

So can anyone point me to a guide on how to get rid of or reduce image retention? I´m getting pretty bad image retention at 110hz and also at 96hz.

I know i´ve asked before and was told to search this thread but couldn´t really find anything useful.

Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## mookotheking

Looking into getting a glossy QNIX, is the one posted in this link a glossy or matte from greensum?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140934439651


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mookotheking*
> 
> Looking into getting a glossy QNIX, is the one posted in this link a glossy or matte from greensum?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140934439651


I also inquired on that item last week... The seller said to contact them first prior to ordering for the stock availability... But the title says glossy with a star...


----------



## cabaretcabaret

Hi guys,

I received my new Qnix PLS the other day and I'm so pleased with it.

The only thing is that I seem to have exhausted all the possibilities of increasing the refresh rate beyond 60Hz to no avail. I'm running XP so I can't use the patch method in the FAQ and no matter what other method I try (eg reforce) ATI CCC states the max refresh rate is 60Hz and I see no reduction in flicker.

So my question is: Assuming the stock dual DVI cable is not the limit, is there any way to overclock in XP?

(My GPU is AMD HD 7700)

I read though the thread as best I can and can't seem to find much info on it. Hopefully I'm just an idiot, and there's a simple solution.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So can anyone point me to a guide on how to get rid of or reduce image retention? I´m getting pretty bad image retention at 110hz and also at 96hz.
> 
> I know i´ve asked before and was told to search this thread but couldn´t really find anything useful.
> 
> Any help would be much appreciated.


I am experiencing the same thing. It is especially bad with web browsers etc. My advice is to just have it at 60 if you are working with static images. Gaming or Color slides always gets rid of it if i am unlucky .


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cabaretcabaret*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I received my new Qnix PLS the other day and I'm so pleased with it.
> 
> The only thing is that I seem to have exhausted all the possibilities of increasing the refresh rate beyond 60Hz to no avail. I'm running XP so I can't use the patch method in the FAQ and no matter what other method I try (eg reforce) ATI CCC states the max refresh rate is 60Hz and I see no reduction in flicker.
> 
> So my question is: Assuming the stock dual DVI cable is not the limit, is there any way to overclock in XP?
> 
> (My GPU is AMD HD 7700)
> 
> I read though the thread as best I can and can't seem to find much info on it. Hopefully I'm just an idiot, and there's a simple solution.


This might come off as a bit harsh, but seriously it´s time to upgrade from Windows XP.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cabaretcabaret*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I received my new Qnix PLS the other day and I'm so pleased with it.
> 
> The only thing is that I seem to have exhausted all the possibilities of increasing the refresh rate beyond 60Hz to no avail. I'm running XP so I can't use the patch method in the FAQ and no matter what other method I try (eg reforce) ATI CCC states the max refresh rate is 60Hz and I see no reduction in flicker.
> 
> So my question is: Assuming the stock dual DVI cable is not the limit, is there any way to overclock in XP?
> 
> (My GPU is AMD HD 7700)
> 
> I read though the thread as best I can and can't seem to find much info on it. Hopefully I'm just an idiot, and there's a simple solution.


I do believe you're the first person I know who is trying to overclock your monitor while running XP.

No, seriously. You're the first. Don't know how to help you, sorry; which is saying a lot, seeing as I've followed these monitors for more than 18 months now... (I have an _original_ Catleap 2B)


----------



## cabaretcabaret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> This might come off as a bit harsh, but seriously it´s time to upgrade from Windows XP.


Not harsh at all, I've been of the same mind for a while. I've just been in upgrade purgatory for a long time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I do believe you're the first person I know who is trying to overclock your monitor while running XP.
> 
> No, seriously. You're the first. Don't know how to help you, sorry; which is saying a lot, seeing as I've followed these monitors for more than 18 months now... (I have an _original_ Catleap 2B)


Well at least I'm not going insane then.

Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## LunaP

DANG, just looked @ my email, apparently the Korean seller emailed me @ 2am in the morning stating he needed my phone # in order to ship it, so now I gotta wait till tonight before it's shipped







so much for having it by tomorrow









Really anxious to see this thing in person.


----------



## LunaP

Hey guys another question on this, as far as the OC goes w/ these monitors, how does it compare w/ lightboost on the Asus monitors, is there blurring? Or is there something it uses to negate that? Just curious, friend keeps throwing that at me everytime I try to recommend it to him.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Hey guys another question on this, as far as the OC goes w/ these monitors, how does it compare w/ lightboost on the Asus monitors, is there blurring? Or is there something it uses to negate that? Just curious, friend keeps throwing that at me everytime I try to recommend it to him.


Lightboost is slightly sharper at fast motion. The Qnix is fast and doesn't have a that much blur at all compared to other 120hz monitors without lightboost. When you get a Qnix and overclock to 120hz that is all you should expect "120hz". For me the combination of [email protected] + PLS beat lightboost for me and my needs/wants. Yes lightboost will give you slightly less blur BUT only at the expense of only having 1080p and a TN panel.

Also many games have in game motion blurring which many people either do not know about or never turn off. If you have had lightboost like me and then switched to the Qnix ther eis a bit more blur but after turning off the in game blurring it was practically the same. Now you could turn around and say that you could have lightboost and in game blur off, but how much clarity are you really going for? If i was professionally gaming as a career i might sacrifice almost anything for that extra motion sharpness or response time but that is not the case.

Many friends of mine have lightboost but after seeing the Qnix in action a lot of them have at least gone IPS/PLS even with the reduced motion clarity. So bottom line is if your friend is a pro gamer that is reliant on his performance than sure lightboost makes sense, other than that the Qnix just covers much more ground in terms of other computer needs(colors, screen real estate, still at least 96hz, etc).


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Lightboost is slightly sharper at fast motion. The Qnix is fast and doesn't have a that much blur at all compared to other 120hz monitors without lightboost. When you get a Qnix and overclock to 120hz that is all you should expect "120hz". For me the combination of [email protected] + PLS beat lightboost for me and my needs/wants. Yes lightboost will give you slightly less blur BUT only at the expense of only having 1080p and a TN panel.
> 
> Also many games have in game motion blurring which many people either do not know about or never turn off. If you have had lightboost like me and then switched to the Qnix ther eis a bit more blur but after turning off the in game blurring it was practically the same. Now you could turn around and say that you could have lightboost and in game blur off, but how much clarity are you really going for? If i was professionally gaming as a career i might sacrifice almost anything for that extra motion sharpness or response time but that is not the case.
> 
> Many friends of mine have lightboost but after seeing the Qnix in action a lot of them have at least gone IPS/PLS even with the reduced motion clarity. So bottom line is if your friend is a pro gamer that is reliant on his performance than sure lightboost makes sense, other than that the Qnix just covers much more ground in terms of other computer needs(colors, screen real estate, still at least 96hz, etc).


+1 you guys are awesome @ really detailing things out , greatly appreciated









I feel much better as well about my purchase now, super excited to get it.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I am experiencing the same thing. It is especially bad with web browsers etc. My advice is to just have it at 60 if you are working with static images. Gaming or Color slides always gets rid of it if i am unlucky .


yeah it does go away after a bit of gaming. However, somebody mentioned something about being able to make it dissappear via some kind of setting or whatever.


----------



## Diogenes5

Can anybody recommend a monitor stand you can get off ebay? The HP stand recommended in this thread is no longer for sale. I have the one from monoprice but the footprint is huge and annoying. I would like a monitor stand like the one dell uses that can swivel, tilt, and twist the monitor sideways for portrait view.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## jincuteguy

Are these Qnix 27 Evolution II or the TEmpest Overlord 27" (that can overclock to 120hz) worth more than getting a 30" 2560-1600 monitor such as the Yamakasi Spart 30" or the Monoprice 30" one? I mean like am I better with getting a Qnix 27" Evolution II or the Tempest Overlord over those Korean 30" 2560-1600 ones?


----------



## ZeVo

Guys, who should I buy my monitor from on eBay? Or maybe I should order from www.ipsledmonitors.com?

And would a 550 Ti be perfectly fine with the QNIX if I was just watching movies and on the Internet until I get my 780?


----------



## bustacap22

.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Are these Qnix 27 Evolution II or the TEmpest Overlord 27" (that can overclock to 120hz) worth more than getting a 30" 2560-1600 monitor such as the Yamakasi Spart 30" or the Monoprice 30" one? I mean like am I better with getting a Qnix 27" Evolution II or the Tempest Overlord over those Korean 30" 2560-1600 ones?


Do you play games? Do you have a powerful enough video card to reach over 60fps at native res with these panels? If you do I would recommend the Qnix evo II because it can overclock to 120Hz. BTW they are all made in korea or taiwan.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Guys, who should I buy my monitor from on eBay? Or maybe I should order from www.ipsledmonitors.com?
> 
> And would a 550 Ti be perfectly fine with the QNIX if I was just watching movies and on the Internet until I get my 780?


Accesories whole or green-sum. Yes, it should be fine.


----------



## ZeVo

Thanks for that info. Another question I have is the whole glossy vs matte screen. I'm in a bad situation where my desk is forward in my room and there is a window right behind me shining towards the desk. Should I avoid glossy then even though the image clarity is better? I always close the blinds and only a little bit of light is visible.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Thanks for that info. Another question I have is the whole glossy vs matte screen. I'm in a bad situation where my desk is forward in my room and there is a window right behind me shining towards the desk. Should I avoid glossy then even though the image clarity is better? I always close the blinds and only a little bit of light is visible.


I have a window right behind me also and used a glossy panel for a little over a year. I noticed glare once in a while with the blinds open but I usually shut them if its really sunny. I honestly think if you only have a little light coming through it will not be a issue. I personally love the look of a glossy protective layer/polarizer on a panel. I will never buy matte again.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I have a window right behind me also and used a glossy panel for a little over a year. I noticed glare once in a while with the blinds open but I usually shut them if its really sunny. I honestly think if you only have a little light coming through it will not be a issue. I personally love the look of a glossy protective layer/polarizer on a panel. I will never buy matte again.


Awesome then. If anything I can also just put up some poster board to cover the windows as they aren't big, but yeah only minimal light comes through. Thanks for your help! Hopefully I'll be getting a QNIX soon. Won't be able to do any gaming until I get a 780 though, but I bet it will kick a** even by just watching movies.


----------



## Velathawen

Got mine from green-sum problem free, the similar time zone meant replies to queries were really snappy too. Turns out the artifacts I was experiencing earlier were due to my 460s, haven't had a single problem ever since I got my 780. Picked the QNIX cause it was listed cheaper when I was shopping


----------



## JTHMfreak

Clean it with distilled water and a microfiber rag, what I use on my tvs and monitors


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Do you play games? Do you have a powerful enough video card to reach over 60fps at native res with these panels? If you do I would recommend the Qnix evo II because it can overclock to 120Hz. BTW they are all made in korea or taiwan.
> Accesories whole or green-sum. Yes, it should be fine.


Yea but why did you recommend getting the Qnix 27" over any other Korean 30" ones? Isn't 30" bigger and better with 1600p res?


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea but why did you recommend getting the Qnix 27" over any other Korean 30" ones? Isn't 30" bigger and better with 1600p res?


Reason most steer away from the 1600p panels is that they don't overclock much if at all....also the colors on them are not as good as 1440p pnaels as they are over saturated wide gamut etc and havbe a noticeable grainy image quality...

Also the input lag on them is a good bit higher than the qnix which can be noticeable if you've been on a panel with low input lag etc...

Of course gaming at 96hz on 1440p was huge difference from 60hz on anything lol

oh and overc Christmas prly pick up a second Qnix for price of a single 1600p pnael


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> Reason most steer away from the 1600p panels is that they don't overclock much if at all....also the colors on them are not as good as 1440p pnaels as they are over saturated wide gamut etc and havbe a noticeable grainy image quality...
> 
> Also the input lag on them is a good bit higher than the qnix which can be noticeable if you've been on a panel with low input lag etc...
> 
> Of course gaming at 96hz on 1440p was huge difference from 60hz on anything lol
> 
> oh and overc Christmas prly pick up a second Qnix for price of a single 1600p pnael


Please see this explanation by MenacingTuba on the other Korean PLS thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The matte CCFL back-lit 30" models all use grainy matte coatings, have poor contrast (500-800:1 vs. 900-1300:1 for the 27")/black levels and are wide gamut (google this)=inaccurate and over-saturated colors for consumer media. Unless you know how to enable color management in the very few programs which support color management or have an AMD graphics card+use these settings (AMD Catalyst Control Center>display color section and check "Use Extended Display Identification Data (EDID)" in Color Temperature Control) the colors will be wrong. None of the Korean 30" monitors have sRGB modes so there is no way to get proper colors for games and movies unless you own and AMD graphics card. The Crossover 30X does not use a grainy matte coating but suffers from the same obvious overshoot ghosting as the Dell 3014.
> 
> 30" monitors also have far more IPS/PLS glow vs. a 27" when viewed from 60-90cm/2-3ft, so, unless you want to sit at least 121cm/4ft away the bottom sides of the screen will exhibit far more glow in dark scenes vs. a 27", especially if the brightness is cranked. The increase in resolution from 1440-1600 is minimal.
> 
> 
> 
> All 30" monitors are a rip off since 2x 1440p monitors can be purchased for the same price. The 27" monitors typically have superior overdrive solutions (less ghosting), better color and brightness uniformity, and glossy+matte options. The 30" which use Tempered Glass have very poor black levels, for example, the Samsung 970D on the left in the below image uses the same tempered glass as the Apple Cinema+Thunderbolt Display, Dell S series and Korean monitors. The NEC on the right uses LG's semi-glossy coating which is basically the same as the coating the matte Qnix+X-Star use.


The 1600p panels have tempered glass which results in poor black levels.


----------



## dmikester1

Well, I did it! Used by birthday money to buy the Qnix last night. Original price on rakuten.com was $329. I had ~$60 in rakuten bucks bringing it to $279 out of pocket. Then they had a 20% cashback deal yesterday, so I will get ~$65 in rakuten bucks to spend later! Super stoked!! Do people generally buy an extended warranty on these? I see the Squaretrade 3 year was $48. I assume they come with the normal 1 year warranty. And then I think pretty much all credit cards now days offer an additional 1 year warranty for free as well.


----------



## mookotheking

Is there a noticeable difference in clarity between the semi-gloss (matte) vs the glossy?


----------



## Ghost12

Question to Nvidia users, I have ran the patcher and used the cru as instructed, then reboot but no 96hz showing in the control panel. It worked perfectly on my amd gpu but swapped to 780 and the first time have tried it just now. Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks

Edit - have now ignore


----------



## Feyla

Quick and probably stupid question: If I get a Wii U which connects to a tv/monitor via HDMI, will I be able to connect it to my Qnix with a Dual DVI > HDMI adapter, even if it won't go above 60hz?


----------



## Ghost12

I have the oc now recognised in windows and nvidia panel and in game, also valid result in ufo frame tester . One more question, when gaming, as just tested it, I have a small circle icon with a red line through it in the top left corner of my screen, not large but have never seen it before or when clocked on my amd gpu. is this normal?

Thanks


----------



## jcleary47

I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these monitors as an early birthday/christmas present to myself. I noticed that some models are "Perfect Pixel" models and some are not. I was hoping to buy from a US retailer (Overclockmonitor.com) and noticed they have one glossy on sale for $299 but they are not "Perfect Pixel" models. Is it really a larger risk purchasing one that is not a "Perfect Pixel" model? If so I will purchase from eBay because I definitely want a glossy screen.


----------



## dmikester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these monitors as an early birthday/christmas present to myself. I noticed that some models are "Perfect Pixel" models and some are not. I was hoping to buy from a US retailer (Overclockmonitor.com) and noticed they have one glossy on sale for $299 but they are not "Perfect Pixel" models. Is it really a larger risk purchasing one that is not a "Perfect Pixel" model? If so I will purchase from eBay because I definitely want a glossy screen.


This question has been asked several times. And it's been shown that "Pixel Perfect" is basically a gimmick. Some people who order "Pixel Perfect" get dead pixels and some people who don't order a "Pixel Perfect" monitor get zero dead pixels. I'd say just get the best deal you can find from a reputable seller. I've also heard the matte is somewhat glossy and much preferred over the glossy.


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> This question has been asked several times. And it's been shown that "Pixel Perfect" is basically a gimmick. Some people who order "Pixel Perfect" get dead pixels and some people who don't order a "Pixel Perfect" monitor get zero dead pixels. I'd say just get the best deal you can find from a reputable seller. I've also heard the matte is somewhat glossy and much preferred over the glossy.


Thanks for the info. I suppose I could consider a matte display then. This site has a bunch of different prices for these monitors but they seem to be the same, so I guess I have to figure out what that means...if there is really a difference or not.

Example:

$329 QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" 2560x1440 WQHD PLS Computer Monitor *Matte
$309 New QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ OC 27" 2560x1440 WQHD PLS Computer Monitor *Matte

Seems like the better one (or just the same) is cheaper...


----------



## mboner1

Welp, i now have a 2nd "stuck" pixel. Not sure if it was always there and i never noticed it or if it's a brand spanking newbie.

I now have 2, one green and this newly discovered red one, i kind of feel sad for them, all lonely without their buddy, all i need now is a blue one and i will have the trifecta of stuck pixels.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I suppose I could consider a matte display then. This site has a bunch of different prices for these monitors but they seem to be the same, so I guess I have to figure out what that means...if there is really a difference or not.
> 
> Example:
> 
> $329 QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" 2560x1440 WQHD PLS Computer Monitor *Matte
> $309 New QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ OC 27" 2560x1440 WQHD PLS Computer Monitor *Matte
> 
> Seems like the better one (or just the same) is cheaper...


Marketing. They're both overclockable, but the ebay seller now decided to capitalize in on it by putting it in the auction. It's cheaper to put a new auction entirely than to revise the original.


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Welp, i now have a 2nd "stuck" pixel. Not sure if it was always there and i never noticed it or if it's a brand spanking newbie.
> 
> I now have 2, one green and this newly discovered red one, i kind of feel sad for them, all lonely without their buddy, all i need now is a blue one and i will have the trifecta of stuck pixels.


I couldn't help but laugh when I read trifecta. Try this to help fix them. Run it for at least for 6 hours if they are stuck well: http://udpix.free.fr/


----------



## coelacanth

I usually game at 96Hz and switch back to 60Hz for desktop use. I fired up Borderlands 2 yesterday and forget to switch back to 96Hz and instantly I noticed how choppy it was. I switched it back to 96Hz and it was so much smoother. I've grown used to gaming at 96Hz (and have the graphics cards to push 96+ FPS) and it's fantastic. The colors right out of the box blew away my TN panel, making gaming even more enjoyable (my Qnix is on the "warmer" side, which I think looks good. I haven't messed with the colors or color profiles at all).

I'm really happy that I found this thread and got one of these monitors. I got really lucky with no backlight bleed, not dead / stuck pixels (ordered pixel perfect matte from green-sum), no image retention, and no problems OCing to 100Hz.


----------



## angelnieves

Has anyone has any luck using a capture card (ex. Avermedia c985) with this monitor? Using a DVI-D to HDMI cable did not seem to work and does not maintain the 120Hz OC I currently had with just DVI-D connection. Any recommendations on how to capture this type of monitor with Avermedia Live Gamer HD C985 capture card?


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I usually game at 96Hz and switch back to 60Hz for desktop use. I fired up Borderlands 2 yesterday and forget to switch back to 96Hz and instantly I noticed how choppy it was. I switched it back to 96Hz and it was so much smoother. I've grown used to gaming at 96Hz (and have the graphics cards to push 96+ FPS) and it's fantastic. The colors right out of the box blew away my TN panel, making gaming even more enjoyable (my Qnix is on the "warmer" side, which I think looks good. I haven't messed with the colors or color profiles at all).
> 
> I'm really happy that I found this thread and got one of these monitors. I got really lucky with no backlight bleed, not dead / stuck pixels (ordered pixel perfect matte from green-sum), no image retention, and no problems OCing to 100Hz.


Could you give your opinion on the matte screen for these monitors? I'm heavily wavering between going glossy or matte. I use a glossy now and I really like the perceived clarity and...depth of it versus my other monitor which is matte.


----------



## Angrychair

serioiusly considering one of these, really don't know much about them, but they seem too good to be true for the price.


----------



## LunaP

Still waiting for mine to be shipped, seller hasn't responded in over 36 hours. Ordered from Amazon, says shopuld arrive by the 20th, but still says "Preparing to ship"


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Could you give your opinion on the matte screen for these monitors? I'm heavily wavering between going glossy or matte. I use a glossy now and I really like the perceived clarity and...depth of it versus my other monitor which is matte.


I'm sure I could get used to a glossy monitor but I really don't like the glare because I have multiple windows and light sources in my room.

The matte coating on the Qnix / X-Star is pretty light, and I even notice slight reflections on it sometimes. I would say it's between matte and gloss, but more on the matte side. A light matte.

It's all personal preference though, there are many happy glossy owners here.


----------



## jcleary47

Okay cool. I'll have to make a decision and just go for it. I'm really nervous about having dead or stuck pixels or whatever but I know that's part of the deal so I'll cross my fingers.


----------



## jincuteguy

So is it better to order these Qnix 27" Evolution II monitors from overclockmonitor.com or better to buy it on Ebay? Anyone that alredy purchased these monitors can give o ut some infos would be appreciated.

Also, yea I know a lot of the 30" monitors have "grainy" coating, but I think they have the newer versions available and it has less grainy anti glare coating on them. So besides the 120hz overclock, i dont see why these 30" ones are not as good as the 27". For the wide gamut color, you can always try to calibrated it.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So is it better to order these Qnix 27" Evolution II monitors from overclockmonitor.com or better to buy it on Ebay? Anyone that alredy purchased these monitors can give o ut some infos would be appreciated.
> 
> Also, yea I know a lot of the 30" monitors have "grainy" coating, but I think they have the newer versions available and it has less grainy anti glare coating on them. So besides the 120hz overclock, i dont see why these 30" ones are not as good as the 27". For the wide gamut color, you can always try to calibrated it.


I bought mine from bizaroo on amazon, came with no dead pixels and really fast shipping.


----------



## latprod

Just go for it, i love mine. Glossy from accesorieswhole on ebay, no dead pixels just 1440p heaven @96hz


----------



## CarsonKT

I have questions about VESA stand,

does all dell monitor stands are standard VESA 100 stand? I googled some pictures, but I have no experience with VESA stand, er.....hard for me to tell.

and my second question is, will a stand from 19" monitor strong enough to hold the monitor? I don't want it smash on my desk really

thanks.


----------



## jcleary47

Okay I'm going to order the Glossy model from accessorieswhole on eBay.

My last question is, do you guys feel the squaretrade warranty is worth it for these? I mean, what exactly do they do for these monitors? Do I have to actually send it to them to have it fixed or do they just replace it or what. I've never used a 3rd party warranty service like that before.

Thanks


----------



## mookotheking

How much did you end up paying for the glossy from Accessorieswhole?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Okay I'm going to order the Glossy model from accessorieswhole on eBay.
> 
> My last question is, do you guys feel the squaretrade warranty is worth it for these? I mean, what exactly do they do for these monitors? Do I have to actually send it to them to have it fixed or do they just replace it or what. I've never used a 3rd party warranty service like that before.
> 
> Thanks


I purchased the warranty from square trade. One other person on here stated they had one of these monitors and had purchased the warranty through square trade and had an issue with the monitor. They contacted square trade and set up shipping the monitor to them, shipping was paid by them, they recieved it and could not repair it. Once they decided they couldnt repair it they issued a refund for the purchase price and the guy turned around and just bought another one. Once I purchased the plan they sent me a confirmation email and it stated all the rules, pretty much stating the same, its free shipping to them and if they cant fix it they refund you the money for a new monitor.


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I purchased the warranty from square trade. One other person on here stated they had one of these monitors and had purchased the warranty through square trade and had an issue with the monitor. They contacted square trade and set up shipping the monitor to them, shipping was paid by them, they recieved it and could not repair it. Once they decided they couldnt repair it they issued a refund for the purchase price and the guy turned around and just bought another one. Once I purchased the plan they sent me a confirmation email and it stated all the rules, pretty much stating the same, its free shipping to them and if they cant fix it they refund you the money for a new monitor.


Awesome good information. I'm guess that warranty doesn't include dead or stuck pixels?

I see that accessorieswhole has a perfect pixel model that states "No Dead pixel, No Stuck pixel guaranteed!" whereas other "perfect pixel" models say 0-3 at most...but they do charge about $40-$50 more for that guarantee, if the guarantee is even a reality at all.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Awesome good information. I'm guess that warranty doesn't include dead or stuck pixels?
> 
> I see that accessorieswhole has a perfect pixel model that states "No Dead pixel, No Stuck pixel guaranteed!" whereas other "perfect pixel" models say 0-3 at most...but they do charge about $40-$50 more for that guarantee, if the guarantee is even a reality at all.


No i dont believe it covers stuck or dead pixels, whole rows of pixels I would say yes. It also doesnt cover cosmetic damage either. I went for the normal X-star on ebay from dreamseller. $279 shipped for the normal one, at 2560X1440 I cant see a couple little pixels being dead that big of a deal.


----------



## jcleary47

Ordered the Glossy and the 3 year Square Trade warranty, super excited. It said I MIGHT get it by Friday, fingers crossed !!!


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mookotheking*
> 
> How much did you end up paying for the glossy from Accessorieswhole?


i paid like 350,but the ones that ship to norway are a little more expensive. Still ****s on any dell/Asus ive tried


----------



## GiveMeHope

I'm having this problem that my games don't recognize that I have a 120 Hz monitor after overclocking, and they only have 60 Hz options. I've used the CRU tool and the 120 Hz option is on the top, any suggestions?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> I'm having this problem that my games don't recognize that I have a 120 Hz monitor after overclocking, and they only have 60 Hz options. I've used the CRU tool and the 120 Hz option is on the top, any suggestions?


Nvidia or AMD?


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Nvidia or AMD?


GTX 770. 120 Hz is set in the control panel and the browser tests confirm it.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> GTX 770. 120 Hz is set in the control panel and the browser tests confirm it.


Set "preferred refreshrate" is set to "highest available" in the 3D settings menu globally. This will generally force many games to use 120hz(especially if they don't have an internal refresh rate setting).


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Set "preferred refreshrate" is set to "highest available" in the 3D settings menu globally. This will generally force many games to use 120hz(especially if they don't have an internal refresh rate setting).


This setting doesn't exist for me. Do I need to install something for it to appear?


----------



## Spartan F8

If you have not re-installed your drivers since you overclocked and put the 120hz refresh in the EDID with CRU then your current driver installation does not read your monitor as supporting anything over 60hz. With that being said the setting would not be there until you re-install your video drivers and the monitor is detected as a 120hz enabled screen. This is because all PC games generally support 60hz so if your monitor is only read as 60hz it does not even show the option as there is no need for it.

Try re-installing the drivers "fully" and then checking the setting again. It should be there afterwards.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> I'm having this problem that my games don't recognize that I have a 120 Hz monitor after overclocking, and they only have 60 Hz options. I've used the CRU tool and the 120 Hz option is on the top, any suggestions?


Make sure GeForce Experience is not installed. It triggers a bug in NVIDIA's driver that affects EDID overrides.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Make sure GeForce Experience is not installed. It triggers a bug in NVIDIA's driver that affects EDID overrides.


What you can't use geforce experience with OC qnix monitors so you can't use shadowplay that's a deal breaker...............


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> If you have not re-installed your drivers since you overclocked and put the 120hz refresh in the EDID with CRU then your current driver installation does not read your monitor as supporting anything over 60hz. With that being said the setting would not be there until you re-install your video drivers and the monitor is detected as a 120hz enabled screen. This is because all PC games generally support 60hz so if your monitor is only read as 60hz it does not even show the option as there is no need for it.
> 
> Try re-installing the drivers "fully" and then checking the setting again. It should be there afterwards.


I've done this. Basically fully uninstalled everything from nvidia and used driver sweeper to clean everything, then restarted, then used CRU to add 120 Hz, then another restart, then installed the latest driver, it's still not there







Is there something else I should do?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Make sure GeForce Experience is not installed. It triggers a bug in NVIDIA's driver that affects EDID overrides.


Done this as well. Didn't work


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> I've done this. Basically fully uninstalled everything from nvidia and used driver sweeper to clean everything, then restarted, then used CRU to add 120 Hz, then another restart, then installed the latest driver, it's still not there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there something else I should do?
> Done this as well. Didn't work


I think your order of operations isn't right? You shouldn't be installing fresh drivers after using CRU to create (custom) native resolutions.

1) Start from a clean slate, uninstall all drivers, reboot, reinstall new drivers, reboot.

2) Go into the pixel clock patcher folder and run nvlddmkm-patcher.exe. You only need to run the full patcher with 5xx series GPUs or if you have SLI. Since you have 7-series GPU and no SLI you can just run the normal patcher. Then REBOOT.

3) After reboot go into the CRU folder and run CRU.
- In the dropdown at the top make sure the right monitor is selected. It should be the "active" monitor.
- Highlight the resolution listed under "Detailed resolutions."
- Hit the "Edit" button below the box. This will pop up a new window.
- In the new window hit "Copy." Then hit "OK" to close the window.
- Hit the button "Add" under the 'Detailed resolutions" box. This will pop up a new window. Hit "Paste" to populate the screen. Then go down to the area in this screen that says "Refresh rate:' and change it from whatever it is (59.5 or 60.0) to 120. Then hit "OK" to close the window.
- Move the new custom resolution that you created to the top of the list of resolutions under "Detailed resolutions."
- Make sure that "Include extension block" is unchecked.
- Hit OK and CRU will add this new "custom resolution" to your Nvidia drivers.
REBOOT.

4) Once you're rebooted, right click on your desktop (or however you want to do it) to go to NVIDIA Control Panel.
- Go to "Change resolution"
- Under PC you should see godmon listed as 2560 x 1440 (native). It should be highlighted.
- CRU (despite the name, Custom Resolution Tool) does not add "custom resolutions" to NVIDIA Control Panel. It makes your drivers think that whatever resolutions you created are native.
- There's a dropdown next to the monitor labeled "Refresh rate:" You should be able to select 120Hz from this dropdown now.

You can tighten up your timings to lower your pixel clock at 120Hz. Lots of people in the thread have gone over this.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I think your order of operations isn't right? You shouldn't be installing fresh drivers after using CRU to create (custom) native resolutions.
> 
> 1) Start from a clean slate, uninstall all drivers, reboot, reinstall new drivers, reboot.
> 
> 2) Go into the pixel clock patcher folder and run nvlddmkm-patcher.exe. You only need to run the full patcher with 5xx series GPUs or if you have SLI. Since you have 7-series GPU and no SLI you can just run the normal patcher. Then REBOOT.
> 
> 3) After reboot go into the CRU folder and run CRU.
> - In the dropdown at the top make sure the right monitor is selected. It should be the "active" monitor.
> - Highlight the resolution listed under "Detailed resolutions."
> - Hit the "Edit" button below the box. This will pop up a new window.
> - In the new window hit "Copy." Then hit "OK" to close the window.
> - Hit the button "Add" under the 'Detailed resolutions" box. This will pop up a new window. Hit "Paste" to populate the screen. Then go down to the area in this screen that says "Refresh rate:' and change it from whatever it is (59.5 or 60.0) to 120. Then hit "OK" to close the window.
> - Move the new custom resolution that you created to the top of the list of resolutions under "Detailed resolutions."
> - Make sure that "Include extension block" is unchecked.
> - Hit OK and CRU will add this new "custom resolution" to your Nvidia drivers.
> REBOOT.
> 
> 4) Once you're rebooted, right click on your desktop (or however you want to do it) to go to NVIDIA Control Panel.
> - Go to "Change resolution"
> - Under PC you should see godmon listed as 2560 x 1440 (native). It should be highlighted.
> - CRU (despite the name, Custom Resolution Tool) does not add "custom resolutions" to NVIDIA Control Panel. It makes your drivers think that whatever resolutions you created are native.
> - There's a dropdown next to the monitor labeled "Refresh rate:" You should be able to select 120Hz from this dropdown now.
> 
> You can tighten up your timings to lower your pixel clock at 120Hz. Lots of people in the thread have gone over this.


Thanks again. Worked like a charm. I did these first time but I'm not sure what was wrong. Now everything seems great.


----------



## edwardpark8

Hey guys, I have two GTX 660s and the sli option disappeared. SLI was working fine before the nvidia 331.82 patch. I have a sudden feeling it has to do with the CRU and pixel clock patch. I reset all the settings using the appropriate programs for CRU and pixel clock patch after I installed the latest nvidia drivers, but the sli option disappeared. I also have Nvidia Geforce Experience, the sli bridge is connected, and I'm using a 27 inch Qnix 1440p. Does anyone know a fix? Thanks for reading


----------



## killswitchh

So, is it safe to OC my x-star to 120hz with a 125v power cord? Used a normal cord with the brick that has 240v max.

Also, what happens to your monitor if you overdue it?


----------



## ZeVo

Speaking of the brick for the QNIX, is it perfectly safe voltage for people like me who live in the US?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Speaking of the brick for the QNIX, is it perfectly safe voltage for people like me who live in the US?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killswitchh*
> 
> So, is it safe to OC my x-star to 120hz with a 125v power cord? Used a normal cord with the brick that has 240v max.
> 
> Also, what happens to your monitor if you overdue it?


Yup you're totally fine using a normal power cord with the brick, and the brick works perfectly fine in the US.


----------



## ZeVo

Awesome. Thanks.


----------



## Yume

*FedEx custom charges on Korean X-Star DP2710 shipped to USA.*

I live in Portland, Oregon USA.

On Nov 19, 2013 around 5 pm Seoul, South Korea time, I ordered two X-Star DP2710 2560x1440 Samsung PLS Panel Matte Monitors (eBay item #330932578190) from dream-seller for $279 each.

About 3 hours ago, I received an email from dream-seller saying:
"The shipping time takes about 5-7 business days or longer depending on how long it takes to clear customs.
Please note that Fed ex will either bill you or ask you to pay a bill.
This bill is not the shipping fee, it is the customs that they paid in advance when picking it up at the customs."

I was not aware of a customs charge and have not been told what it would be, which troubles me.

Can anyone provide me information on this and the practices of other sellers?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killswitchh*
> 
> So, is it safe to OC my x-star to 120hz with a 125v power cord? Used a normal cord with the brick that has 240v max.
> 
> Also, what happens to your monitor if you overdue it?


Your input voltage of your power supply has nothing to do with overclocking the monitor what so ever. If there is only 120Vac output at your household wall outlet the power supply will use 120Vac and no greater. Now if you have 220Vac wired to an outlet like say your stove, you can also plug in the power supply to that as well. I would then suggest getting larger gauge. The normal operating input range is typically 100Vac ~ 240Vac. The standard power cord gauge will be fine also since its rated properly. The main thing you have to worry about is the current draw of the monitor and wattage. I was under the assumption that when "overclocking your monitor" your gpu is now sending 120Hz signal to the input of the video board then sending the data signal to the panels logic board. This will increase the load on the chip and input panel which then can display lines or artifacts simply because the monitor can't handle the data at 120Hz. So you aren't really overclocking the chip at all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Speaking of the brick for the QNIX, is it perfectly safe voltage for people like me who live in the US?


110~240Vac


----------



## Spartan F8

Everyone should just bypass the voltage inverter and run the 12v power directly off the power supply


----------



## iplaybeats

I also ordered from Dream seller for around 280 each. I bought 2 monitors on 2 separate orders last week and received each monitor 2-3 days after it shipped. I live in California and received no custom charges. I think there is information about potential custom charges on the product info if you look at the page. Almost all sellers have that information posted.


----------



## jincuteguy

So you can't use Shadow Play when you o verclocked to 120hz? that kinda suck.

Also I'm in Cali too so are you guys 100% sure that they dont charge customs fee right?


----------



## rcoolb2002

For those of you with dead pixels or ghosting, you can try this browser fix.

JscreenFix


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So you can't use Shadow Play when you o verclocked to 120hz? that kinda suck.
> 
> Also I'm in Cali too so are you guys 100% sure that they dont charge customs fee right?


They shouldn't do. America have a free trade agreement with South Korea.


----------



## Shepardg

So i got my monitor working, I had/have a bad DVI-D cable (should have probably checked that first ting) however, i got the cable to work by bending it and it threw up a reliable picture (it did have some scan lines that would flicker across the screen, but nothing that wasn't tollerable. I can't get a new cable this week as i'm in the airforce stationed in korea, so getting off base this week is sorta a no-go.

My new problem, i updated to the latest nvidia drivers, and now i can't get a picture to the monitor. not sure what might be causing it. any clues? I uninstalled nvidia experience,


----------



## Shepardg

... Never mind, it's the damn cable....


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Quick and probably stupid question: If I get a Wii U which connects to a tv/monitor via HDMI, will I be able to connect it to my Qnix with a Dual DVI > HDMI adapter, even if it won't go above 60hz?


Anyone know please?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Anyone know please?


No it will not work as the Qnix does not have a scaler and the Wii U doesn't have scaling. If the Wii U could output 1440p it could work but consoles are stuck in the plague of 1080p(and lower). Even the PS4 and Xbone wont have scaling or(to my knowledge) 1440p support. PC graphics have scaling in the video chipset or card.


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Anyone know please?


The wiiU does not have HDCP implementation so possible that it will work, but most of the games run @ 720p so you will only see them @ 720p on your screen with black borders, since the QNIX does not do anything to the input signal (upscale etc).


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> The wiiU does not have HDCP implementation so possible that it will work, but most of the games run @ 720p so you will only see them @ 720p on your screen with black borders, since the QNIX does not do anything to the input signal (upscale etc).


I have rigged the Qnix to do this with an xbox360 and PS3. It looks terrible and completely cuts the performance of the panel to a point of not being worth it. The visuals are blurry and washed out even compared to inferior quality panels. The Wii U having even less graphics capabilities will likely be the same or worse.

If you want to try it set the resolution to 720p on a separate monitor saving the changes. Then connect the qnix and try it. If it works then you will see a horrible picture. If it doesn't work try applying the resolution again. Sometimes hot swapping the cable can work with the PS3 so it could work with the Wii U too. Also if the screen does show up but looks like a color visualization then the picture is trying to display but the console cannot match the appropriate scaling settings(tried an original xbox for grins).


----------



## Feyla

@Spartan F8 & rcoolb2002,

ok thank you. I think I won't bother then, I'll get a nice TV instead before I get a console.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Another update on my situation...

After my first monitor had a row of dead pixels, i had to send ti back to Korea. The seller gave me instructions on how to make a COD(charge on delivery) package pick up. I went through the proces son the fedex website, it was a pretty big pain filling out the forms for internatonal shipping. Lots of laws and rules, lots of information they need for customs etc.

Fed ex picked it up next day and it got all the way to incheon Korea before it was held up at customs and needed proof of export documentation that i may have not included or they just always need it im not sure. Either way the seller faxed them over as soon as i messaged him and it was official returned yesterday. i asked for a replacement because lots of other have had success from this seller and i kinda didnt want to deal with getting the refund money and finding a new one to buy. But the new monitor is on the way and im even more anxious to get it this time because i had the chance to see the glory that is 1440p and now i want it back lol.

The seller was Dream-Seller, overall good customer service for the return, but it sucked that it the monitor had such a glaring defect. Overall i would recommend him because the customer service was relatively painless considering the risk you take when ordering form Korea.


----------



## mookotheking

Does anyone know if this seller (worldbest365) in the link is also green-sum? Their listings look similar. I want to buy a glossy screen and this looks to be the cheapest one available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/321206204954?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac961ba1a


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So anything new and noteworthy in these PLS threads of late?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So anything new and noteworthy in these PLS threads of late?


Moar members,

and my monitor finally was shipped 4 days after ordering ;__; even though it says delivery date is today there's no way that's possible since it was shipped from Korea last night, and I'm in AZ lol


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So anything new and noteworthy in these PLS threads of late?


I've posted a few color profiles created with a Spyder4Pro, they're listed in my sig if you're still actively updating the OP with them


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> I've posted a few color profiles created with a Spyder4Pro, they're listed in my sig if you're still actively updating the OP with them


I can't view the color profile... rr maybe i'm missing the page? Can you post it?


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

finally opened mine up, and its damn near perfect aside from that large bleed through on the bottom. ill OC it this weekend hopefully


----------



## rcoolb2002

I did the tape mod and it didnt seem to really help at all with the BLB. Still pretty much all along the bottom of the monitor


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iplaybeats*
> 
> I also ordered from Dream seller for around 280 each. I bought 2 monitors on 2 separate orders last week and received each monitor 2-3 days after it shipped. I live in California and received no custom charges. I think there is information about potential custom charges on the product info if you look at the page. Almost all sellers have that information posted.


Thanks for the info.

Can you tell me what monitors you ordered?


----------



## iplaybeats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Can you tell me what monitors you ordered?


2 X-Stars ( both $280), ordered separately within last week. I had always planned to buy 2 but wanted to buy one first to try it out. The next day I saw that the price had a sales badge with a counter counting down with a couple hours left. Seeing that 280 was such a great deal and thinking the price will jump up after, I bought a second one ( they tricked me, it was still 280 even after the counter ran out). Both came in 2 days after their respective shipping dates to California.

Monitor 1 has pretty bad backlight bleeding in the bottom row and top right corner, as well as a stuck pixel which I cannot get rid of in the center of the screen. It was able to OC to 110hz with stability. Monitor 2 is perfect with no backlight bleeding and no dead/stuck pixels. It OC'd to 100hz with stability, but the colors are much warmer than monitor 1. I'm receiving a color calibration tool this week, so that will hopefully fix the color differences between the two.


----------



## Spartan F8

I wanted to show everyone a link that another member sent me of overclocking IPS for a price that could give the Qnix a run for its money. They also seem to have the overclocking PCB for much cheaper than the overlord site.

http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25&product_id=42
http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=50

I plan on getting the overclocking PCB for my crossover blade edition. Then i can do a direct side by side comparison of the IPS vs PLS(which i have already done but this time there is overclocking







)


----------



## Feyla

Just got an invoice in the post from FedEx, £98.33 for VAT and Duty... was hoping I'd managed to avoid this. This is 2 weeks or so after I received the monitor btw. That puts my total price at around £335, not such a great bargain anymore, but oh well, still good.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Another update on my situation...
> 
> After my first monitor had a row of dead pixels, i had to send ti back to Korea. The seller gave me instructions on how to make a COD(charge on delivery) package pick up. I went through the proces son the fedex website, it was a pretty big pain filling out the forms for internatonal shipping. Lots of laws and rules, lots of information they need for customs etc.
> 
> Fed ex picked it up next day and it got all the way to incheon Korea before it was held up at customs and needed proof of export documentation that i may have not included or they just always need it im not sure. Either way the seller faxed them over as soon as i messaged him and it was official returned yesterday. i asked for a replacement because lots of other have had success from this seller and i kinda didnt want to deal with getting the refund money and finding a new one to buy. But the new monitor is on the way and im even more anxious to get it this time because i had the chance to see the glory that is 1440p and now i want it back lol.
> 
> The seller was Dream-Seller, overall good customer service for the return, but it sucked that it the monitor had such a glaring defect. Overall i would recommend him because the customer service was relatively painless considering the risk you take when ordering form Korea.


Hope you have better luck this time man!


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Just got an invoice in the post from FedEx, £98.33 for VAT and Duty... was hoping I'd managed to avoid this. This is 2 weeks or so after I received the monitor btw. That puts my total price at around £335, not such a great bargain anymore, but oh well, still good.


Don't pay it, VAT is "only" 20% so you shouldn't be charged anywhere near that much, and there's no Duty to be paid.


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Don't pay it, VAT is "only" 20% so you shouldn't be charged anywhere near that much, and there's no Duty to be paid.


Oh right, that's interesting, what should I do then just ignore it or contact them?

To be precise, the the invoice is broken down as follows:

Duty: £33.41
VAT: £54.42
Advancement Fee £10.50

No idea what the advancement fee is.


----------



## jcleary47

My glossy was out of stock when I ordered and they offered to swap in either the matte or the glossy tempered glass and I opted for the tempered glass. It looks like it should ship out today so hopefully I'll get it soon.

Bummer that my original order was out of stock even though it was up on their eBay store but no big deal I guess.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Don't pay it, VAT is "only" 20% so you shouldn't be charged anywhere near that much, and there's no Duty to be paid.


Duty depends on where you live in the world - England may very well have imposed duty on imported monitors. Which, according to this site, is 14%.

But I don't know, since the duty for LCD monitors entering Canada (what I know for sure) is 0% whereas the site shows that Canada has a 6% duty rate. It is referencing the wrong heading for Canada, citing 8528.59.9000 (doesn't exist), when 8528.51.00 00 should apply, being a "Monitor and projector, not incorporating television reception apparatus"; being "of a kind solely or principally used in an automatic data processing system".

Even so, 41% is steep D:

EDIT:

The 14% should not apply to you - really, 8528.51 is the customs code that should apply to you. Looks like someone misclassified your item as 8528.59 as opposed to 8528.51.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The TARIC site*
> 8528
> Monitors and projectors, not incorporating television reception apparatus; reception apparatus for television, whether or not incorporating radio-broadcast receivers or sound or video recording or reproducing apparatus
> 
> - Cathode-ray tube monitors
> 
> - Other monitors
> *8528 51
> - - Of a kind solely or principally used in an automatic data-processing system of heading 8471
> *8528 59
> - - Other


----------



## mookotheking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> My glossy was out of stock when I ordered and they offered to swap in either the matte or the glossy tempered glass and I opted for the tempered glass. It looks like it should ship out today so hopefully I'll get it soon.
> 
> Bummer that my original order was out of stock even though it was up on their eBay store but no big deal I guess.


Which ebay seller did you try ordering from? I'm trying to get a glossy version too but it seems like there doesn't seem to be stock from any of the sellers even though they have listings for it.


----------



## TylerRWL

Hey fellas,
just wanted to join in on the conversation. I purchased the Qnix on Saturday the 16th. I did not get the pixel perfect version just the standard unit from green-sum. However, it arrived today the 20th and the unit is pixel perfect and has absolutely no backlight bleed. Panels are all tight with no play, though the stand is way too wobbly for my liking. Ill probably vesa mount it at some point in time.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Don't pay it, VAT is "only" 20% so you shouldn't be charged anywhere near that much, and there's no Duty to be paid.
> 
> 
> 
> Duty depends on where you live in the world - England may very well have imposed duty on imported monitors. Which, according to this site, is 14%.
> 
> Even so, 41% is steep D:
Click to expand...

I'm UK too, it's 20% and no duty with SK. Most of that is "handling fees" which are extortionate and should be challenged - I bought mine for £220 and got a £50 bill - £44 VAT and £6 Handling, which I thought was fair.

There was a bit of a question on which category monitors fell in, but I believe it fell onto the "no duty" side - since electronics with SK are free trade. I suggest ringing and challenging the Duty cost, after doing a bit of googling.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I'm UK too, it's 20% and no duty with SK. Most of that is "handling fees" which are extortionate and should be challenged - I bought mine for £220 and got a £50 bill - £44 VAT and £6 Handling, which I thought was fair.
> 
> There was a bit of a question on which category monitors fell in, but I believe it fell onto the "no duty" side - since electronics with SK are free trade. I suggest ringing and challenging the Duty cost, after doing a bit of googling.


Yeah. The duty charged was 14%, which happens to be the duty assessed on 8528.59. So basically, the customs official had no idea what he was dealing with, and basically said that this "monitor" was a generic piece of image-displaying equipment that is not primarily used with an automatic data processing device (a computer), coming from an unknown third country, and thus (wrongly) classified it under 8528.59.

Bring up the fact that it is a computer monitor, to be primarily used with a computer (automatic data processing device) and thus ought to be classified 8528.51.


----------



## Moragg

Definitely challenge it - tell them you'll pay VAT and Handling and they should talk to customs about Duty. You already have the monitor after all, no need to pay what you shouldn't - though once they agree to that make them email you with saying that's fine.


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Duty depends on where you live in the world - England may very well have imposed duty on imported monitors. Which, according to this site, is 14%.
> 
> But I don't know, since the duty for LCD monitors entering Canada (what I know for sure) is 0% whereas the site shows that Canada has a 6% duty rate. It is referencing the wrong heading for Canada, citing 8528.59.9000 (doesn't exist), when 8528.51.00 00 should apply, being a "Monitor and projector, not incorporating television reception apparatus"; being "of a kind solely or principally used in an automatic data processing system".
> 
> Even so, 41% is steep D:
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> The 14% should not apply to you - really, 8528.51 is the customs code that should apply to you. Looks like someone misclassified your item as 8528.59 as opposed to 8528.51.


I found your link to dutycalculator.com helpful. Why is it crossed out?


----------



## Redvineal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> I did the tape mod and it didnt seem to really help at all with the BLB. Still pretty much all along the bottom of the monitor


To this day I still don't fully understand what the tape mod guide is trying to show. It's not very thorough, but that's not my point here.

After many attempts to fix the bleed at the top of my QX2710, with the bezel and metal frame removed from the panel, I discovered an extremely thin layer of glass (seemed like glass, at least) that I could slightly lift. I decided to lift it mid-way between two points of severe bleed, and it dramatically reduced both bleed points!

The more permanent solution I came up with still involved electrical tape...only in a different way. I took a small strip of tape (maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inches) and folded it, similar to rolling it up, until it became thick enough to rest UNDER, and hold up, the glass (again, maybe glass, not sure) where I manually lifted before. I was careful to leave enough tape exposed as a sort of "pull tab" in case I need to take it out.

I'm not sure how helpful this is to you, and I apologize for not having any pictures to share. However, if you can get an idea of what I describe above, I hope I've helped in some way! Feel free to PM me if you want more info.


----------



## shhhpark

so i just received my qnix today and its beautiful!! no dead pixels and no bleeding as far as i can tell. My only issue at this point now is once i follow the steps to overclock and get my monitor running at 96hz my youtube videos wont work. I get sound and when i go through the progress bar i get a thumbnail but i get no picture. I uninstalled the drivers and tried again but same issue


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mookotheking*
> 
> Which ebay seller did you try ordering from? I'm trying to get a glossy version too but it seems like there doesn't seem to be stock from any of the sellers even though they have listings for it.


accessorieswhole


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> I found your link to dutycalculator.com helpful. Why is it crossed out?


The link itself is fine, but my comment on it is wrong. See the edit where I've revised my comments concerning duty owed.


----------



## Feyla

Thanks for the help Moragg and kevinsbane, I'll do a bit of research then challenge them as it definitely looks like I shouldn't be paying that much.


----------



## zushikikato

How often to the prices go up and down?
I see people recommend green-sum, dream seller but their prices are like $320 and I know they can go down to $260.
Is there anywhere right now I can get a glossy for about $270 and the seller has good ratings in terms of warranty or quality.


----------



## TylerRWL

I paid 290 on Friday night for my glossy


----------



## Loktar Ogar

I'm wondering if they also follow Thanksgiving and Black Friday sale or any US related sales?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I'm wondering if they also follow Thanksgiving and Black Friday sale or any US related sales?


I highly doubt it will go any lower than it already is, but I may be wrong.


----------



## Slylen

Curse you all and your compelling arguments! I have also pulled the trigger on a QNIX QX2710 from dream seller. Wish me luck!


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slylen*
> 
> Curse you all and your compelling arguments! I have also pulled the trigger on a QNIX QX2710 from dream seller. Wish me luck!


I'm holding up until next week... I'm very tempted to pull the trigger as well... lol


----------



## Slylen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I'm holding up until next week... I'm very tempted to pull the trigger as well... lol


I've been sneaking around OCN for a couple months now because im making a new computer to replace my old Qosmio laptop from a few years back. Didnt even now about 1440p till i came here haha. Honestly you might save a 10 or 20 bucks on black friday but i doubt it.

Ill post all my results and such when i recieve my monitor.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Yeah, i guess you are right about this.... Maybe around 10 - 20 bucks off...

Looking forward for your post soon..


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slylen*
> 
> I've been sneaking around OCN for a couple months now because im making a new computer to replace my old Qosmio laptop from a few years back. Didnt even now about 1440p till i came here haha. Honestly you might save a 10 or 20 bucks on black friday but i doubt it.
> 
> Ill post all my results and such when i recieve my monitor.


I've found that as far as getting the ability to get upwards of 120hz on a 1440p display, this route is the cheapest and most viable option. There are plenty of 1080 displays out there that operate at 120hz, but that resolution just isn't for me, and I am not sure I want to throw down $500 or so for a 60hz monitor @ 1440 that may or may not let me OC it higher.


----------



## Ovrclck

Guys, halp! The X-star is $279.00 for the matte finish. Should I buy it?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Guys, halp! The X-star is $279.00 for the matte finish. Should I buy it?


Depends on you if you want a Matte finish... If so, go for it. It's the same panel as the QNIX.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Depends on you if you want a Matte finish... If so, go for it. It's the same panel as the QNIX.


Hmm. I had a matte screen protector on my phone before and hated the look, I'm guessing the same will apply to the X-Star?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Owners say that the Matte finish is slightly glossy... Much better if you PM those who had owned and made the post of it here...


----------



## Moragg

Matte is hands down brilliant. I went to this from glossy, and all I can say is the lack of reflections is a joy. Light above me, windows open, it has to be a dark background and there be something pure white near the screen to see even a very smudged reflection. Most of the time absolutely nothing is visible, except the beautiful colours (no graininess as the older heavier matte coatings had).

I cannot recommend matte over glossy for anyone except professionals who need it, but then I wouldn't suggest they get a cheap monitor like these.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Matte is hands down brilliant. I went to this from glossy, and all I can say is the lack of reflections is a joy. Light above me, windows open, it has to be a dark background and there be something pure white near the screen to see even a very smudged reflection. Most of the time absolutely nothing is visible, except the beautiful colours (no graininess as the older heavier matte coatings had).
> 
> I cannot recommend matte over glossy for anyone except professionals who need it, but then I wouldn't suggest they get a cheap monitor like these.


Awesome!! I'm pulling the trigger!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hmm. I had a matte screen protector on my phone before and hated the look, I'm guessing the same will apply to the X-Star?


No they are different. Screen protectors are not at all similar to the coatings that go in front of the panel.

The Matte Qnix is a a semi-glossy coating and is closer to glossy than it is to matte. The matte layer on the Qnix does not absorb and dull light as much as regular matte screens and actually reflects a bit of light/color though nothing close to what Glossy versions will reflect.


----------



## Kokin

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/9240#post_21195027

Please see my previous post for a comparison between a matte (left) vs a semi-glossy matte (right).


----------



## zushikikato

Where are you guys finding the glossy for $290?


----------



## Remmib

Has anyone who lives in Canada ordered a Qnix/X-Star?

Wondering if there will be customs/duties fees for my friend in Vancouver.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zushikikato*
> 
> Where are you guys finding the glossy for $290?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/321206204954?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac961ba1a

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3


----------



## zushikikato

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/321206204954?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac961ba1a
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3


Thanks! Now to wait till Black Friday or get it now...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zushikikato*
> 
> Thanks! Now to wait till Black Friday or get it now...


Black friday will likely have very little relative effect on these panels due to the already very low price. If you can get one of these panels for as low as 280 then i would go ahead and pull the trigger. They won't be going any cheaper. The only possible price deduction would be the listings on newegg or amazon having some sort of combo deal or percentage off. The problem is that amazon and newegg generally have a higher price than ebay sellers which nullifies much if not all of this discount.


----------



## LunaP

HOPING my gloss X star arrives tomorrow







I really wanna compare this to my current monitor. If it matches up or beats it I'm putting in 2 more orders <3


----------



## CarsonKT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Has anyone who lives in Canada ordered a Qnix/X-Star?
> 
> Wondering if there will be customs/duties fees for my friend in Vancouver.


Just got mine today, and there will be duty and also DHL process fee $10, COD fee $4, tax will depends on price of the monitor and all HST rate

The one I got has no dead pixels (I didn't pay for a perfect pixel one), well at least with my naked eyes I can't find one while running the simple color test.
there is some BLB lower RHS,

Just tried to overclock the monitor, and maximum I get is 115Hz........so close
I read somewhere that it also has something to do with dvi cable quality, maybe wait for black friday and get some decent cable and try again


----------



## mookotheking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerRWL*
> 
> I paid 290 on Friday night for my glossy


Which ebay seller did you get yours from?


----------



## Captivate

Is Paypal the only way to pay on Ebay?


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I can't view the color profile... rr maybe i'm missing the page? Can you post it?


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37067274/My%20QNIX%20Monitor%20Color%20Profiles.zip This should work :/


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Has anyone who lives in Canada ordered a Qnix/X-Star?
> 
> Wondering if there will be customs/duties fees for my friend in Vancouver.


I paid around 25 for each of mine to calgary. I did get the seller to reduce the value though, I believe he put it to around 200 each, but I dont remember.


----------



## X79guy

Just checking back in. I have had my monitor for a while now with no issues at 120hz, and it is on 24/7.


----------



## The Storm

I guess I didn't win the shipping lottery, I ordered mine on Saturday the 16th, according to the tracking number it is still in Incheon Korea. It's now Thursday the 21st and I was hoping to have it by now.


----------



## ryantc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I guess I didn't win the shipping lottery, I ordered mine on Saturday the 16th, according to the tracking number it is still in Incheon Korea. It's now Thursday the 21st and I was hoping to have it by now.


that's weird, I ordered on Friday, and shipped on Monday, and had it last night. Are you using EMS?


----------



## The Storm

Ems? I ordered from dreamseller on ebay and it stated expedited shipping.


----------



## TylerRWL

Same as Ryantc here. Ordered Friday, shipped Monday and was here Wednesday. I bought from green-sum


----------



## jcleary47

My order from accessorieswhole has been in 'Manifest' status for 2 days now. Not sure if that means it has or hasn't shipped. I know UPS doesn't always update sometimes.


----------



## CarsonKT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Ems? I ordered from dreamseller on ebay and it stated expedited shipping.


it seems that by default dreamseller uses FedEx, it really shouldn't be this long.

same here, I ordered on Friday and received yesterday, paid CAD$ 23.xx to DHL for fees and tax


----------



## The Storm

Well I am usually the guy that if something goes wrong it's going to happen to me. Maybe fed ex tracking is just really slow to update? But the estimated delivery day is showing Monday the 25th...that's 9 days after ordering and I'm in indiana.


----------



## mookotheking

Did anyone in the US have to pay customs fees?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mookotheking*
> 
> Did anyone in the US have to pay customs fees?


I didn't

Also my monitor should be arrive today


----------



## BIGTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Well I am usually the guy that if something goes wrong it's going to happen to me. Maybe fed ex tracking is just really slow to update? But the estimated delivery day is showing Monday the 25th...that's 9 days after ordering and I'm in indiana.


They are just taking time to make sure that you get the best one! Do you plan to OC your X-star? Let us know how it works out for you.

I just need to make sure it has a high level of WAF ($280 sure does help) and I will pull the trigger!


----------



## Okt00

Just ordered a QNIX QX2710 Evo II (Matte) from ipsledmonitors.com, I figured they say right on the page they will replace if any issues arrise...
Quote:


> IPSLEDMONITORS.com will cover dead pixels (any amount), uneven backlighting or discoloration, total backlight or screen failure, screen flickering or any intermittent screen display issues.


The VESA arm mounts should be here before so I can get everything ready for my new panel. Second one will come if I like the way this one looks. The BENQ I have now is a TN 1080p panel, and it's time for some more pixels.


----------



## jcleary47

What are some good VESA mounts for this monitor?

Also, I'll want to use my current 24" monitor as my 2nd monitor and possibly rotate it 90 degrees vertically. Any recommendations on a mount that can do this?

Also:

Louisville, KY, United States 11/21/2013 10:19 A.M. Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Shipment submitted to Clearing Agency, awaiting final release.

Maybe I will get it tomorrow after all


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIGTom*
> 
> They are just taking time to make sure that you get the best one! Do you plan to OC your X-star? Let us know how it works out for you.
> 
> I just need to make sure it has a high level of WAF ($280 sure does help) and I will pull the trigger!


Haha, yeah I hope its a good one. Ya, I plan on overclocking it.


----------



## dmikester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Also:
> 
> Louisville, KY, United States 11/21/2013 10:19 A.M. Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Shipment submitted to Clearing Agency, awaiting final release.
> 
> Maybe I will get it tomorrow after all


That's hilarious! This is what the tracking for my monitor says:
Louisville, KY, United States 11/21/2013 10:18 A.M. Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Shipment submitted to Clearing Agency, awaiting final release.

Where are you located?


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> That's hilarious! This is what the tracking for my monitor says:
> Louisville, KY, United States 11/21/2013 10:18 A.M. Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Shipment submitted to Clearing Agency, awaiting final release.
> 
> Where are you located?


I'm located in Maine. Pretty much all my packages get routed through Kentuck and/or Chelmsford, MA depending where it's originating from. I believe those are the two big hubs for UPS that service the region.


----------



## Ovrclck

*From IPSledmonitors.
QNIX QX2710 (Matte) *OPEN BOX*
Our Price: $189.98
5 pixel defect, minor backlight bleed

X-star DP2710 (Matte) *OPEN BOX*
Our Price: $229.98
2 pixel defect, minor backlight bleed

Not bad for the price! I'm thinking of picking up the X-star with two dead pixels.


----------



## Captivate

Just ordered a matte qnix 27" from accessoirieswhole. Fingers crossed it overclocks well, has no blb nor stuck pixels!


----------



## viper2005

Hello guys

I have a peculiar problem with my matte xstar, meaning that i can see the refresh line with the corner of my eye.

So i have to ask
is there something wrong with the monitor or with the radeon 5770?

Thank you


----------



## Jotaro

After reading through this thread I decided to order an X-STAR. $280 from dreamseller. I'll cross my fingers for a good result on the quality roulette.


----------



## Coree

Seems like I spotted a new stuck pixel on my monitor. The weird thing is, that on white backgrounds it shows a light cyan color. But when the background is black, it knows how to display white and black? Pixel acting weird







Same goes for my other stuck pixel on the bottom right corner: it knows how to display a black pixel on a white background, but shows a red-green-blue pixel on a black/dark background. Ehh, seems like the timing is wrong or something lol.
(Checked this by using UDpixel. I suggest you others to check this out, those who have stuck pixels)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jotaro*
> 
> After reading through this thread I decided to order an X-STAR. $280 from dreamseller. I'll cross my fingers for a good result on the quality roulette.


Makes me wish I had read through this thread more, I ended up paying 380$ after shipping for my X Star from Amazon


----------



## Clexzor

Does anyone know if its possible to pick up/buy the pcb boards/internals on these....id like to see the price on the pcb maybe buy one in case one of my monitors fails don't havto mess with anything just replace the guts


----------



## bmancreations

I don't really know if this was talked about before or not...

I just noticed that (currently only have two of my monitors setup) that both of these monitors look different together. If I put a white or a light color program/image between the two, you can see that one is more of a darker/greyish color (or tone, not really sure how to describe it, maybe onees just brighter) its not serious, but I never changed color profiles or any settings other then overclocking. Shouldn't they be exactly the same?


----------



## TylerRWL

Has anyone attempted to replace the speakers in their Qnix? The stock units have a noticeable "tinny" sound, and not that it matters to much because the screen alone is worth the price, but id like to have a complete monitor with awesome speakers. If no one has tried this I may make a tutorial on this because im certainly going to research and replace mine.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I don't really know if this was talked about before or not...
> 
> I just noticed that (currently only have two of my monitors setup) that both of these monitors look different together. If I put a white or a light color program/image between the two, you can see that one is more of a darker/greyish color (or tone, not really sure how to describe it, maybe onees just brighter) its not serious, but I never changed color profiles or any settings other then overclocking. Shouldn't they be exactly the same?


There seems to be a good amount of variation in the monitors. Some come with a warm yellow / orange hue. Some come with a cooler blueish hue.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I don't really know if this was talked about before or not...
> 
> I just noticed that (currently only have two of my monitors setup) that both of these monitors look different together. If I put a white or a light color program/image between the two, you can see that one is more of a darker/greyish color (or tone, not really sure how to describe it, maybe onees just brighter) its not serious, but I never changed color profiles or any settings other then overclocking. Shouldn't they be exactly the same?


Not at all. All monitors are different which is why icc profiles that are good for one qnix may not be good for another. If they have good quality control you would "hope" they are similar, but in reality they never are. I bought 3 dell s2240l's for eyefinity and as well as all having different temperatures to the picture they also were different sizes, half a inch difference between the 3 of them, meaning a full inch between smallest and the biggest. It's not just the qnix , it's all monitors/tv's, that's why it's called panel lottery.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I don't really know if this was talked about before or not...
> 
> I just noticed that (currently only have two of my monitors setup) that both of these monitors look different together. If I put a white or a light color program/image between the two, you can see that one is more of a darker/greyish color (or tone, not really sure how to describe it, maybe onees just brighter) its not serious, but I never changed color profiles or any settings other then overclocking. Shouldn't they be exactly the same?


There is a youtube video explanation on this... Especially when you overclock them.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37067274/My%20QNIX%20Monitor%20Color%20Profiles.zip This should work :/


I've been trying out different profiles in the last few weeks and the 120Hz profile from Zipper Fairy is still my favorite one. Thanks again for sharing.


----------



## rcoolb2002

So I still can't figure out why I do not have color management options.

I'm thinking it is because I do not have any MONITOR drivers installed maybe?



Lots of googling says that "third party control of color management".

I have the typical software installed: CCC, AMD APP SDK, Raptr, etc. What else could be controlling my color profiles?


----------



## TylerRWL

Looks like you might need the catleap driver from the OP


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerRWL*
> 
> Looks like you might need the catleap driver from the OP


Guess I am blind because I have not found a link to the monitor driver in the OP or in my various searching online. I hear rumors it exists though.


----------



## TylerRWL

More research tells me the catleap driver allows the "overclocking" to stick in games. What does device manager say your monitor is?

EDIT: Here is the link to the Samsung driver for the PLS monitor that uses the same panel as the QNIX.

http://www.samsung.com/hk_en/support/model/LS27A850DS/XK-downloads


----------



## bmancreations

So I know there are a bunch of links, but anyone wanna help me out quickly lol

I have 2 XSTARs at 96hz, and will hopefully have a third QNIX at 96hz as well. I am running Windows 8.1.

Where and how do I get the best color profile? Install instuctions? Or do I have go through that entire video?

**Also, is it possible back light bleed can get worse? I swear one of my monitors looks worse recently.


----------



## TylerRWL

You just download what profile you want from the link in the OP. then install them through color management. Desktop (right-click) > screen resolution > advanced settings > color management > add > browse. Tick the box that says use my settings for this device.


----------



## Broseidon

Getting some weird backlight issues.. every so often, the monitor will instantly become very hazy and washed out.. then slowly returns to normal over a period of 5-10 minutes. Anyone else had this happen?


----------



## latprod

Have any of you tried to OC the Qnix when running SLI?
I just got my second gtx 780 yesterday, updated to latest drivers, did everything in the order I did before the upgrade (when i was running it without problems at 96hz)
I used the full patcher, rebooted, opened up CRU and did that whole thing, rebooted, changed to 96hz.
Now both in heaven and 3dmark the screen just goes black and i have to reboot.
When i enter windows it says that windows has recovered from a shutdown.
can't run games, and now it's just crashing every minute or so regardless of what I'm doing
I'm running the new .82 drivers btw


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerRWL*
> 
> More research tells me the catleap driver allows the "overclocking" to stick in games. What does device manager say your monitor is?
> 
> EDIT: Here is the link to the Samsung driver for the PLS monitor that uses the same panel as the QNIX.
> 
> http://www.samsung.com/hk_en/support/model/LS27A850DS/XK-downloads
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you for the driver. Just what I was looking for.

Unforunately that didnt help my issue. I still cannot control the color profiles through windows color management.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> Thank you for the driver. Just what I was looking for.
> 
> Unforunately that didnt help my issue. I still cannot control the color profiles through windows color management.


Here's the icc profile i made for 96hz.. i think it's the best 1 but i may be a little biased









https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/tits31.icm

As far as making the profile stick, load it via that windows setting you are using, download mcw from the link below, and install it. restart the computer, once restarted open mcw, make sure it is not the default curve when you open it, meaning it's not a straight line from the bottom left to the top right of the box, it should be a little tiny bit curved for my profile. If it's loaded enter a name for it in mcw, click save, then load it from the drop down box and click force persistent profile, then click load again to make sure it's loaded. works like a charm









http://www.hex2bit.com/products/product_mcw.asp

Don't mind the bad colors in this pic, fraps doesn't use the icc profile for some reason when i take pics, which is why i use dxtory for everything but the desktop, everything else uses the icc profile, fraps might not because i don't have the full paid for version. Here's what it should look like if loaded properly..


----------



## MajorTierce79

Hey guys did you know that the Glossy version of the Qnix has been discontinued...I was looking to get one and they are back ordered everywhere, then I saw that accessoriewhole on ebay had some so I bought one, and he replied to me that he didn't have it anymore that the manufacturer would not be getting more glossy panel and that it was discontinued...any of you guys heard about this or is he telling me lies so I grab another version from him?

Thx


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Here's the icc profile i made for 96hz.. i think it's the best 1 but i may be a little biased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/tits31.icm
> 
> As far as making the profile stick, load it via that windows setting you are using, download mcw from the link below, and install it. restart the computer, once restarted open mcw, make sure it is not the default curve when you open it, meaning it's not a straight line from the bottom left to the top right of the box, it should be a little tiny bit curved for my profile. If it's loaded enter a name for it in mcw, click save, then load it from the drop down box and click force persistent profile, then click load again to make sure it's loaded. works like a charm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hex2bit.com/products/product_mcw.asp
> 
> Don't mind the bad colors in this pic, fraps doesn't use the icc profile for some reason when i take pics, which is why i use dxtory for everything but the desktop, everything else uses the icc profile, fraps might not because i don't have the full paid for version. Here's what it should look like if loaded properly..


Thank you for the information. I will check it out, but I would still like to figure out why win8.1 doesnt show any display devices under color management.


----------



## fagoatse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> Thank you for the information. I will check it out, but I would still like to figure out why win8.1 doesnt show any display devices under color management.


Get Color profile keeper and ignore that terrible color management in windows.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MajorTierce79*
> 
> Hey guys did you know that the Glossy version of the Qnix has been discontinued...I was looking to get one and they are back ordered everywhere, then I saw that accessoriewhole on ebay had some so I bought one, and he replied to me that he didn't have it anymore that the manufacturer would not be getting more glossy panel and that it was discontinued...any of you guys heard about this or is he telling me lies so I grab another version from him?
> 
> Thx


I have sent my tempered glass back to AW and they told me the same when i asked for a Glossy panel......but Greensum got some Glossy panels in 2 days ago so i bought one from them.


----------



## MajorTierce79

Yeah well now it looks that he is out, only one that I saw was the DisplayPort version


----------



## JTHMfreak

Ok, just noticed this, used to play Castlevania LOS on my last monitor perfect. I have tried evrery hz setting there is, and multiple graphics card settings, but the game just wont run right on this monitor. I get all kinds of weird green flashes and video driver fails. I cant figure out if it is the monitor or what, I have tried multiple settings that work for older games such as the witcher, I would really like to p;lay this game, help me.


----------



## mookotheking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I have sent my tempered glass back to AW and they told me the same when i asked for a Glossy panel......but Greensum got some Glossy panels in 2 days ago so i bought one from them.


I just bought a glossy one from worldbest365 yesterday. I also contacted greensum and he said he has glossy panels in stock. I believe worldbest365 and greensum are the same seller due to their listings looking nearly the same but bought the worldbest365 listing since it was cheaper at $295 vs $299. I've also heard the same that glossy panels are no longer being manufactured from other sellers, such as ipsledmonitors.com so maybe greensum is the only one that has any stock left at this point.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/321206204954?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac961ba1a


----------



## MajorTierce79

Worldsbest doesn't ship to Canada :-(


----------



## mookotheking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MajorTierce79*
> 
> Worldsbest doesn't ship to Canada :-(


Did you contact worldsbest to confirm that? I thought I've read of Canadians getting monitors from greensum (worldsbest).


----------



## MajorTierce79

Greensum does ship to Canada but worldsbest doesn't even ship to North America...I sent a message to see if they would...


----------



## gypopotamus

Just got my qnix from excellent castle on ebay! very very happy with it, looks great, but need to do some colour calibration. 120hz out of the box, without any messing with timings or anything


----------



## mookotheking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MajorTierce79*
> 
> Greensum does ship to Canada but worldsbest doesn't even ship to North America...I sent a message to see if they would...


I live in the US and he shipped it to me...I think it's just an error in his listing


----------



## MajorTierce79

That is weird because the ebay listing you posted doesn't even show up on ebay.ca, and when I click on it, it clearly says doesn't ship to Canada and when you read lower it says doesn't ship to North America!


----------



## mookotheking

I received my tracking number already so he definitely ships to North America.


----------



## crun

http://www.ebay.pl/itm/Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/221308381901?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item338701eacd&_uhb=1

Any idea if in case of bad panel (let's say BLB) I can ship it back and get a refund from them? (storewithstory)

Also, what's with the "slim"? 1 month ago when I didn't notice any slim monitors. Thinner bezel? But panel and electronics are 100% the same?


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TylerRWL*
> 
> You just download what profile you want from the link in the OP. then install them through color management. Desktop (right-click) > screen resolution > advanced settings > color management > add > browse. Tick the box that says use my settings for this device.


I do not get the "Add" option. It's greyed out?


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crun*
> 
> http://www.ebay.pl/itm/Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/221308381901?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item338701eacd&_uhb=1
> 
> Any idea if in case of bad panel (let's say BLB) I can ship it back and get a refund from them? (storewithstory)
> 
> Also, what's with the "slim"? 1 month ago when I didn't notice any slim monitors. Thinner bezel? But panel and electronics are 100% the same?


I would check out the blb policy they have before sending back.......ive noticed a few sellers saying it is acceptable to have some backlight bleed.....also have you tried the paper or tape fixes....theres a brilliant tutorial at the beginning of this thread to sort it out.

How bad is the bleed?....any pics?


----------



## Woned

I live in canada, I purchased it on ebay from the cheapest available (I paid 330$ I think) and I also had to pay 60$ for customs.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woned*
> 
> I live in canada, I purchased it on ebay from the cheapest available (I paid 330$ I think) and I also had to pay 60$ for customs*tax*.


If you paid for customs, you got charged for something that does not exist. $60 on $330 can be reasonably broken down as $10 handling "fee" by your shipping company (DHL?) and $50 tax, or about 15%. You are liable and are assessed the total sales tax for your province on your monitor.


----------



## ya mother

I got charged £35 from fedex even tho i sent it back the next week through fedex and now been charged £29.11 from DHL before they will even deliver my new one ....lol


----------



## LunaP

Don't think I'm ordering from Amazon again, still waiting, and now its caught up in customs, the shipper took an additional 3 days to ship it after contacting me the first time.

I'm hearing good things about dream seller and a couple others people mentioned that actually backup all defects/pixels etc, whoever has speedy shipping + a good track record please let me know. I don't think I'll receive my monitor till end of next week at this rate.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Don't think I'm ordering from Amazon again, still waiting, and now its caught up in customs, the shipper took an additional 3 days to ship it after contacting me the first time.
> 
> I'm hearing good things about dream seller and a couple others people mentioned that actually backup all defects/pixels etc, whoever has speedy shipping + a good track record please let me know. I don't think I'll receive my monitor till end of next week at this rate.


I have order from the three big guys, dream-seller, accessorieswhole and green-sum. All got to me within 3 days, all in good condition.


----------



## jcleary47

Mine is coming this afternoon. I'll take some pics if I remember. Fingers crossed for no dead pixels


----------



## Woned

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> If you paid for customs, you got charged for something that does not exist. $60 on $330 can be reasonably broken down as $10 handling "fee" by your shipping company (DHL?) and $50 tax, or about 15%. You are liable and are assessed the total sales tax for your province on your monitor.


Makes sense. Thanks for the clarification. I dont remember the exact words they used ( They made me pay physically when I picked up the package at their office) but I don't remember seeing the broken-down elements of the 60$ amount.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I have order from the three big guys, dream-seller, accessorieswhole and green-sum. All got to me within 3 days, all in good condition.


Thanks I'll use these guys instead.


----------



## dmikester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Mine is coming this afternoon. I'll take some pics if I remember. Fingers crossed for no dead pixels


Nice, mine says "out for delivery" as well! Super stoked to see this bad boy. Hoping like the rest of you for little to no BLB and zero dead pixels!

Not sure if anyone in here has ordered from rakuten.com (buy.com) seller - MNW GLOBAL. But I ordered mine on Monday Nov, 18 and it is coming today, Nov 22. Can't complain at all on the ship time on that one.


----------



## dmikester1

I am seriously blown away at how fast they can ship this stuff!

Altoona, WI, United States 11/22/2013 8:20 A.M. Out For Delivery
Minneapolis, MN, United States 11/22/2013 5:21 A.M. Arrival Scan
Louisville, KY, United States 11/22/2013 4:43 A.M. Departure Scan


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> I am seriously blown away at how fast they can ship this stuff!
> 
> Altoona, WI, United States 11/22/2013 8:20 A.M. Out For Delivery
> Minneapolis, MN, United States 11/22/2013 5:21 A.M. Arrival Scan
> Louisville, KY, United States 11/22/2013 4:43 A.M. Departure Scan


Wish it was the same for me, I'm a 45 minute trip from the airport but they're slow as hell at getting packages done.

Ordered on the 16th

18:54 20-Nov-2013 Posting/Collection 서울양천
Posting office zip code : 158055
Transit or Destination country : U.S.A
22:24 20-Nov-2013 Departure from outward office of exchange 국제우편물류센터
Dispatch number : 945
22:31 20-Nov-2013 INCHEON
19:57 21-Nov-2013 Arrival at inward office of exchange USLAXA
19:58 21-Nov-2013 USLAXA
Customs retention reason : 기타


----------



## fastpcman12

how would you compare these korean monitors vs the u3011?

i want to sell the u3011 and buy the qunix evolution glossy.


----------



## Jotaro

Ahh... the monitor shipped from South korea to my country in one single night, but it's going to be held up in customs for the week. What a pain. They're also charging me almost $30 in taxes, but that's not much.


----------



## jcleary47

This monitor is amazing. No dead pixels from what I can tell from the various tests, backlight bleed is minimal, and there is zero play in the panel between the screen/glass and frame.

This is the Glossy Tempered Glass model. So far so good.


----------



## LunaP

Is there Glossy AND Glossy + Tempered or are they the same thing, just curious since I ordered the X Star


----------



## lightsout

No more glossys being made? That sucks. I was going to order one in 2 weeks when I get some cash. Hopefully I can find one.


----------



## crun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I would check out the blb policy they have before sending back.......ive noticed a few sellers saying it is acceptable to have some backlight bleed.....also have you tried the paper or tape fixes....theres a brilliant tutorial at the beginning of this thread to sort it out.
> 
> How bad is the bleed?....any pics?


no, no. you misunderstood me. i am considering buying this monitor (it's like my 3rd attempt already^)

i just can't decide which seller should I trust. i would love to be able to ship it back if i dislike it (i have never had a bad pixel or excessive blb in my screen). i would also like them to be albo to ship it as gift. ofc I want it cheap and ship fast (this isn't really that important)


----------



## 271973

Anyone else have a GTX 670 and a QNIX? I've been having trouble with my overclock and testing it using http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping.

I've been trying Firefox and Chrome, but I usually get a desync error in Firefox, and in Chrome at the moment it's usually going at like 30FPS.

Also, aside from that in the past I've gotten a 96Hz OC, but when I use Dota2 in borderless window mode (with compositing turned off), the FPS jumps all over the place and I get game-ruining graphical stutter.

I am running a second 1920x1080 monitor as an extended display, could this impact my OC and gaming?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> Anyone else have a GTX 670 and a QNIX? I've been having trouble with my overclock and testing it using http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping.
> 
> I've been trying Firefox and Chrome, but I usually get a desync error in Firefox, and in Chrome at the moment it's usually going at like 30FPS.
> 
> Also, aside from that in the past I've gotten a 96Hz OC, but when I use Dota2 in borderless window mode (with compositing turned off), the FPS jumps all over the place and I get game-ruining graphical stutter.
> 
> I am running a second 1920x1080 monitor as an extended display, could this impact my OC and gaming?


I do not have a GTX 670 and QNIX but you may try to reset to defaults in NV Control panel and restart... or uninstall your NV drivers and use driver cleaner in safemode and delete the NVIDIA Folder in C: and try to install the new drivers again.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crun*
> 
> no, no. you misunderstood me. i am considering buying this monitor (it's like my 3rd attempt already^)
> 
> i just can't decide which seller should I trust. i would love to be able to ship it back if i dislike it (i have never had a bad pixel or excessive blb in my screen). i would also like them to be albo to ship it as gift. ofc I want it cheap and ship fast (this isn't really that important)


Ah right.....then the first bit still applies about the sellers policy on backlight bleed..... not sure any of them ship them as a gift as customs are wise to this.....accessoriswhole, greensum and dreamseller are the top main sellers not just for the amount they shift but for their customer service and positive feedback from customers.

Heres what AW have on their description........

*
We cannot guarantee for no backlight bleed.
It may have some backlight bleed exist due to panel characteristics.
Even Apple Cinema Display do not guarantee and responsible for backlight bleed
and they also do not take return for that reason.
For same reasons, we also do not guarantee its backlight bleed as return matter.
However, we do inspect each monitors for its condition and do not sell any monitors with excessive backlight bleed.
In normal user circumstance it doesn't have any problem, but can be shown in dark circumstance.*


----------



## Yume

A post would be easier to find if the post # was provided.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Cause its easier for you to search than for him to post it every 10 pages. The first post about it is on page 393.


Am slowly reading thru posts and agree with HardwareDecoder in post #8104 when he wrote:
"I don't really have time to search through all the pages looking for your post."

When you say in post # 8108 that "the first post about it is on page 393", the page # varies depending on the number of posts per page that someone sets in their preferences.

I set mine to 100 per page so this post of mine will appear on page 96 using my option.

Am not complaining. Just a suggestion for when the post # is available.

Edit: See that the link works to the post so that makes it even easier to find.


----------



## Budiesel

Hey all, this thread got me convinced to pull the trigger on one of these monitors. 100% happy with my decision. 120hz with the supplied dvi-d cable. No stuck pixels (that I can see), very minimal backlight bleed. Joined the forum just to say thanks to all the people on here for the wealth of information!


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> Anyone else have a GTX 670 and a QNIX? I've been having trouble with my overclock and testing it using http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping.
> 
> I've been trying Firefox and Chrome, but I usually get a desync error in Firefox, and in Chrome at the moment it's usually going at like 30FPS.
> 
> Also, aside from that in the past I've gotten a 96Hz OC, but when I use Dota2 in borderless window mode (with compositing turned off), the FPS jumps all over the place and I get game-ruining graphical stutter.
> 
> I am running a second 1920x1080 monitor as an extended display, could this impact my OC and gaming?


I am running SLI'd GTX 670's and I am running at 96hz.

When I did the test at that site, I was having sync issues. I did what it recommended and shut off my other monitor and made the browser window a square in the middle of the QNIX monitor...not full screen browser window and that fixed the sync issues.

I had read that having a second monitor can cause interference with the test and having the browser window full screen can too.

When testing in Battlefield 4 at 2560x1440 @ 96 I noticed no glitches or stuttering or anything so I assume it's fine.

I am having trouble getting things to work at 120hz though and I'm not sure why. Haven't dived into the issue yet.


----------



## dannystang

Gents first time poster long time reader.

Building a new PC and luckily found this thread, searched through the threads yet a google search gives me conflicting results.

I will be building a pc with a GTX 770 (for me it more than enough).

My concern is blogs I have read mention they used 2 QNIX Monitors (with the multiple video connections) though, price wise 2 X-Star would save me a lot of money.

Now the GTX 770 has Dual Link DVI-D and DVI-I pretty straight forward. XStar model has DVI-D (I get it DVI-D and go to the DVI-I)

My concern is I found a thread from someone with this exact setup and when they tried to connect 2 of the Xstar monitors to the 770 one worked the other did not.

Was this possibly in error on his part or if I order the 2 monitors (with DVI-D port ONLY) and can plug them both in to the Nvidia card without issue?

Thanks in advance!!


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Budiesel*
> 
> Hey all, this thread got me convinced to pull the trigger on one of these monitors. 100% happy with my decision. 120hz with the supplied dvi-d cable. No stuck pixels (that I can see), very minimal backlight bleed. Joined the forum just to say thanks to all the people on here for the wealth of information!


I see you are the most recent entry in the members list which shows you bought from green-sum for $319.

Am wondering when you ordered it, if you paid any customs fees, and how long it took to arrive.


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> *From IPSledmonitors.
> QNIX QX2710 (Matte) *OPEN BOX*
> Our Price: $189.98
> 5 pixel defect, minor backlight bleed
> 
> X-star DP2710 (Matte) *OPEN BOX*
> Our Price: $229.98
> 2 pixel defect, minor backlight bleed
> 
> Not bad for the price! I'm thinking of picking up the X-star with two dead pixels.


Those have been there for over a week which was when I first noticed they had a Clearance section which doesn't come up on the home page.

Did you try to contact them? I called three times, only reached a message machine, and never got a call back.

Site says "Product is sold as is with no warranty or exchange policy. Returns are not accepted. Please consider before purchase."

If I lived near them, would go and take a look.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> Those have been there for over a week which was when I first noticed they had a Clearance section which doesn't come up on the home page.
> 
> Did you try to contact them? I called three times, only reached a message machine, and never got a call back.
> 
> Site says "Product is sold as is with no warranty or exchange policy. Returns are not accepted. Please consider before purchase."
> 
> If I lived near them, would go and take a look.


I emailed them. Haven't heard back yet, I would love to save shipping costs and just go pick it up. I'm not too far away from them.


----------



## Budiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> I see you are the most recent entry in the members list which shows you bought from green-sum for $319.
> 
> Am wondering when you ordered it, if you paid any customs fees, and how long it took to arrive.


Ordered it a couple weeks ago, only took around 5 or 6 days to get to me, no customs fees (U.S.).


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dannystang*
> 
> Gents first time poster long time reader.
> 
> Building a new PC and luckily found this thread, searched through the threads yet a google search gives me conflicting results.
> 
> I will be building a pc with a GTX 770 (for me it more than enough).
> 
> My concern is blogs I have read mention they used 2 QNIX Monitors (with the multiple video connections) though, price wise 2 X-Star would save me a lot of money.
> 
> Now the GTX 770 has Dual Link DVI-D and DVI-I pretty straight forward. XStar model has DVI-D (I get it DVI-D and go to the DVI-I)
> 
> My concern is I found a thread from someone with this exact setup and when they tried to connect 2 of the Xstar monitors to the 770 one worked the other did not.
> 
> Was this possibly in error on his part or if I order the 2 monitors (with DVI-D port ONLY) and can plug them both in to the Nvidia card without issue?
> 
> Thanks in advance!!


I don't know exactly if some might come with issues, but I have 2 XSTARS connected to a 770 through DVI, working without issue, both overclocked to 96hz. I will also be getting a multi input QNIX and connecting it through DisplayPort (hoping that it overclocks). The 770 is a good card.


----------



## dannystang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I don't know exactly if some might come with issues, but I have 2 XSTARS connected to a 770 through DVI, working without issue, both overclocked to 96hz. I will also be getting a multi input QNIX and connecting it through DisplayPort (hoping that it overclocks). The 770 is a good card.


BIG THANKS!! Now I can order


----------



## bmancreations

OK, so I managed to add the color profile from the first page to both my monitors, but they still seem off from each other. How do I know the profiles are working?


----------



## The Storm

Ok so my X-star showed up today without warning lol. Anyway worked a 16hr shift and now getting to set this thing up. First impressions are the packing was very very good, the box had zero damage. Hooked it up right away and turned it on, everything works great, not one single dead pixel, mind you that I did NOT order a pixel perfect monitor. I did a quick 96hz OC and it took right away. Not sure if my 7950's will push this thing properly at 120hz on BF4 but I might as well try to see if it will OC that high.


----------



## The Storm

I have changed my color calibration to a few from the first page. How would I revert it back to the stock color profile?


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Ok so my X-star showed up today without warning lol. Anyway worked a 16hr shift and now getting to set this thing up. First impressions are the packing was very very good, the box had zero damage. Hooked it up right away and turned it on, everything works great, not one single dead pixel, mind you that I did NOT order a pixel perfect monitor. I did a quick 96hz OC and it took right away. Not sure if my 7950's will push this thing properly at 120hz on BF4 but I might as well try to see if it will OC that high.


That's great! Even more so for "the guy that if something goes wrong it's going to happen to me".









Having ordered the same item from dream-seller, hope I'm as fortunate.

Were you charged any customs fees?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> That's great! Even more so for "the guy that if something goes wrong it's going to happen to me".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having ordered the same item from dream-seller, hope I'm as fortunate.
> 
> Were you charged any customs fees?


It was worth the little delay in shipping.







It overclocks right on up to 120hz as well. I haven't been charged any as of yet, Fedex dropped it off and my wife signed for it.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> OK, so I managed to add the color profile from the first page to both my monitors, but they still seem off from each other. How do I know the profiles are working?


Download monitor calibration wizard and if it's loaded it should look like the image below with some color and variation in the line, and NOT a straight grey line from bottom left to top right.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Here's the icc profile i made for 96hz.. i think it's the best 1 but i may be a little biased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/tits31.icm
> 
> As far as making the profile stick, load it via that windows setting you are using, download mcw from the link below, and install it. restart the computer, once restarted open mcw, make sure it is not the default curve when you open it, meaning it's not a straight line from the bottom left to the top right of the box, it should be a little tiny bit curved for my profile. If it's loaded enter a name for it in mcw, click save, then load it from the drop down box and click force persistent profile, then click load again to make sure it's loaded. works like a charm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hex2bit.com/products/product_mcw.asp
> 
> Don't mind the bad colors in this pic, fraps doesn't use the icc profile for some reason when i take pics, which is why i use dxtory for everything but the desktop, everything else uses the icc profile, fraps might not because i don't have the full paid for version. Here's what it should look like if loaded properly..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I have changed my color calibration to a few from the first page. How would I revert it back to the stock color profile?


Type in color in the start box , click on color management, then click on the color profile you added then click remove. Restart pc. Done yo.


----------



## bmancreations

Sorry, that program did nothing


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Sorry, that program did nothing


You mean the icc profile did nothing, your just using the program to verify the icc profile is loaded then saving it if it's loaded with mcw, then forcing it with mcw. If it's not loading then that's a different issue.


----------



## timaishu

Got my third monitor and not sure what to think. Not sure if any remember, but I returned a good screen because it wouldn't overclock worth a damn. Returned it and went with overclockmonitor.com and purchased their pp model. It was aweful, had a couple dead pixels(plus a red color pixel and a couple black) and the stand was crooked. Returned that one and got my replacement. Initially it looks really good. On a white screen I see zero black pixels. Stand is perfect. However, I fired up a game and noticed I have a pixel that is stuck white. Now, overclockmonitor.com's warranty covers this, and technically I should be entitled to another replacement, but I am getting sick of it. Think I should try my luck again or just say screw it and deal with the white pixel. It is stable at 120hz which is nice.


----------



## ZeVo

Have you guys had better experience with green-sum or dream-seller? I don't know who to order from.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Got my third monitor and not sure what to think. Not sure if any remember, but I returned a good screen because it wouldn't overclock worth a damn. Returned it and went with overclockmonitor.com and purchased their pp model. It was aweful, had a couple dead pixels(plus a red color pixel and a couple black) and the stand was crooked. Returned that one and got my replacement. Initially it looks really good. On a white screen I see zero black pixels. Stand is perfect. However, I fired up a game and noticed I have a pixel that is stuck white. Now, overclockmonitor.com's warranty covers this, and technically I should be entitled to another replacement, but I am getting sick of it. Think I should try my luck again or just say screw it and deal with the white pixel. It is stable at 120hz which is nice.


I would stick with the stuck pixel. There is also the finger rubbing method and stick pixel fix visualization that you could try. Honestly if i were to get that monitor as even my first i would keep it(your at 120hz, good stand, ONLY 1 stuck pixel, little BLB).


----------



## Lysergix710

So when i overclock at 120hz i get the slightest couple of dark tear/looking lines on the left hand edge of my screen, im guessing this could be fixed with some changed timings but im unsure what to change ? or should i stay at 96hz ?


----------



## crun

Which samsung monitor is using the Samsung PLS panel from QNIX?


----------



## Harry604

So i just bought a qnix 2710 glossy from greensum

I have crossover q27 and a samsung s27a950d

Now I get both in one lol 120hz and 1440p

Hope It arrives when I get back from vacation in Europe on Tuesday


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Have you guys had better experience with green-sum or dream-seller? I don't know who to order from.


I don't think you can go wrong with either. Many people have ordered from both and they have been good. I personally ordered from dreamseller because of the sale and had a good experience.


----------



## crun

Meh. After some thinking, QNIX isn't as cheap as I thought. There is a slight chance that gift would help me avoid tax(23%) and customs (14%). And invoice wouldn't necessary make it less expensive...

Actually, I could get, for example, U2371HM for the same money


----------



## MajorTierce79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crun*
> 
> Meh. After some thinking, QNIX isn't as cheap as I thought. There is a slight chance that gift would help me avoid tax(23%) and customs (14%). And invoice wouldn't necessary make it less expensive...
> 
> Actually, I could get, for example, U2371HM for the same money


But you couldn't overclock it








The main reason why people grab these is to overclock it....


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crun*
> 
> Meh. After some thinking, QNIX isn't as cheap as I thought. There is a slight chance that gift would help me avoid tax(23%) and customs (14%). And invoice wouldn't necessary make it less expensive...
> 
> Actually, I could get, for example, U2371HM for the same money


But that's a 1080p 23 inch ips 60hz monitor isn't it??? Fair difference.


----------



## Parkalash

Hi i got my QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ This week and it has some annoying BLB and panel play thats kinda annoying so im trying to fix it. But the panel play isnt the same as i have seen it other posts, its the glass itself that isnt in place.

This is what it looks like, hope i can get some help

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x17jeuu_2013-11-23-13-32-53_tech


----------



## crun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> But that's a 1080p 23 inch ips 60hz monitor isn't it??? Fair difference.


No, it's a 27" 1440p display. It was just an example, I am more interested in FG2421. For me it is either QNIX or FG2421 I think (both are quite different though, I know)


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crun*
> 
> No, it's a 27" 1440p display. It was just an example, I am more interested in FG2421. For me it is either QNIX or FG2421 I think (both are quite different though, I know)


Maybe I just got lucky, but mine is zero dead pixels, slight BLB, and overclocks to 120hz with no problems. Its basically a great monitor. Perfectly happy with my $340 purchase.


----------



## Zaikar

Hi guys, just a question.

I've seen a few other monitors like the amazing Qnix or X-Star, those are that ones:
- ACHIEVA Shimian
- YAMAKASI CATLEAP 2703
- CROSSOVER 27QW (that with AH-IPS and 420cd/m)!!

So I'd love to ask you, is the CROSSOVER 27QW really worth it and better than the Onix?? Because the price is almost the same...

Tell me your opinion!

Thanks


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> You mean the icc profile did nothing, your just using the program to verify the icc profile is loaded then saving it if it's loaded with mcw, then forcing it with mcw. If it's not loading then that's a different issue.


No I mean, that program has no options, how do you verify it? You said if it has something other than a line from bottom left to right...thats all I saw. So what now?


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I would stick with the stuck pixel. There is also the finger rubbing method and stick pixel fix visualization that you could try. Honestly if i were to get that monitor as even my first i would keep it(your at 120hz, good stand, ONLY 1 stuck pixel, little BLB).


Blb is actually on the bad side I think. Worst of the 3 so far.

I am gonna wait and see what overclockmonitor has to say as they have been very helpful thus far. It just seems like a loosing battle all around in trying to get a perfect one. So far though I am leaning towards just keeping it and hopefully I will forget about the single stuck white pixel.


----------



## LunaP

I think I'm gonna order from Dream seller right now if he's faster then the green one, my monitor's still showing it's in customs, and the seller hasn't responded in days. This was ordered last week too. I bet I'll get the new one before this one.


----------



## lightsout

Never heard of this overclockmonitor site. Are they affiliated with a certain ebay seller? Anyone got any info on them? I assume they are also overseas? (korea?)


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Never heard of this overclockmonitor site. Are they affiliated with a certain ebay seller? Anyone got any info on them? I assume they are also overseas? (korea?)


I can vouch for them as being legit. I bought one from them but it had a lot of issues and they took care of me in getting it replace at no cost to me. Although the one they sent me back also isnt perfect, but I think in general these monitors are a gamble.


----------



## lightsout

Thanks for the info.


----------



## LunaP

Holy crap, overstock from a business buyout near me and they've got 12 Dell U3011's @ 550$ brand new non refurb......not sure what to do now LOL, Buy 3 and go tri , buy 3 and sell for double or leave it and stick w/ X star ( if it ever arrives, )


----------



## jincuteguy

Dell U3011's are grainy coating, i wouldn't bother with them.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Dell U3011's are grainy coating, i wouldn't bother with them.


That can be removed though, and only worked w/ them a few times at my old office. Other than that just irritated @ the wait time, I'm not sure if the korean post office stops tracking after it hits the US or if customs is just sitting on it w/o updating its been a week now and the status hasn't updated.


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I think I'm gonna order from Dream seller right now if he's faster then the green one, my monitor's still showing it's in customs, and the seller hasn't responded in days. This was ordered last week too. I bet I'll get the new one before this one.


It's about 6:35 am Sunday in dream-seller land. They are closed on weekend. I ordered from them and it was shipped FedEx Economy.

First email from them said "The shipping time takes about 5-7 business days or longer depending on how long it takes to clear customs."

A later estimate said "usually it only takes about 3-5 business days."


----------



## jincuteguy

So how long does it usually take them to ship the monitor to you? I heard ppl ordered and got their monitors within 3 days. Not sure which seller it was but it was either accessorieswhole or dream-seller.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So how long does it usually take them to ship the monitor to you? I heard ppl ordered and got their monitors within 3 days. Not sure which seller it was but it was either accessorieswhole or dream-seller.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CDH1G7Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

expensive I know, I didn't research prices enough as someone linked me there.

It's been 6 business days so far.


----------



## Iggg

have anyone figured out how to hook up an xbox or ps4 with these korean monitors since they don't have a built in scaler?


----------



## Strileckifunk

I'm starting to worry. I've had my Qnix for a few months now, but I'm starting to get a burn in (atleast that's what I think it's called) if I view fb for a couple minutes and start doing something else with darker colors, say a game for example, or even view my Steam libary, I can easily start the see all the white from FB resonating. It's similar to what happened when I tried overclocking it when I got it. I never kept it overclocked, set it to stock and removed the program I used to change the refresh rate.

Is there anything I can do? It seems to be getting worse; it takes less time to leave an imprint and is starting to last longer (20-30 min right now)


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> No I mean, that program has no options, how do you verify it? You said if it has something other than a line from bottom left to right...thats all I saw. So what now?


Well is it showing just a black straight line? Or is it slightly curved with color like the pic i linked? If it's a straight black line then the icc profile is NOT working. If it is working, then you name it in the box that says save, then you save it. Then in the box below that it will show up, then you load it and "force persistent profile" and windows will never change back to default.

If windows isn't loading it then i guess all you can do is go to color management and try adding it again, setting as default etc. I have the spyder elite and that loads my icc profile at startup everytime , then i just use mcw to force it in all programs. If anyone else has a way to load the profile that would be great, but mcw is for saving it once loaded and forcing it so you never have to worry about windows not loading it... you just need to get it to load the first time.


----------



## kamaltmo

So my monitor has a corrupt EDID is there any way any of you could give me a .dat dump or from one of yours so i can get it working again


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamaltmo*
> 
> So my monitor has a corrupt EDID is there any way any of you could give me a .dat dump or from one of yours so i can get it working again


how do I do that ?

nvm figured it out, file is attached. has the default 59.9hz setting and my 110hz I had to rename it to edid.png since it wouldn't let me upload a .dat file just rename it obviously.

edid.png 1k .png file


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> how do I do that ?
> 
> nvm figured it out, file is attached. has the default 59.9hz setting and my 110hz I had to rename it to edid.png since it wouldn't let me upload a .dat file just rename it obviously.
> 
> edid.png 1k .png file


Got to love it when you go to the trouble of helping someone out and uploading something for them and they disappear lol.


----------



## Crazedmonk86

X-star DP2710LED Ordered from Dream-seller on 11/23/13 Shipping to Boise Idaho.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazedmonk86*
> 
> X-star DP2710LED Ordered from Dream-seller on 11/23/13 Shipping to Boise Idaho.


Grats man, hopefully it arrives fast!!! Mine came from him and it arrived without any dead pixels and overclocks great


----------



## Crazedmonk86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Grats man, hopefully it arrives fast!!! Mine came from him and it arrived without any dead pixels and overclocks great


I hope it comes fast, I'm super impatient and I am dying for a 2560x1440 monitor that has the possibility to overclock so i can keep my 120hz.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazedmonk86*
> 
> I hope it comes fast, I'm super impatient and I am dying for a 2560x1440 monitor that has the possibility to overclock so i can keep my 120hz.


Ah the glorious waiting game. These guys are good about getting it out fast. You will have it no time and will be in aw of its glory!!


----------



## jincuteguy

Should I pull the trigger on one of the 30" one? or the Qnix / X-star 27" one?


----------



## lightsout

For some reason I thought only the evolution OC'd. I read the faq and this seems to be false. Any reason to go with one over the other? I am looking for a glossy screen, I think the evolution glossies are not produced now?


----------



## philthy84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> For some reason I thought only the evolution OC'd. I read the faq and this seems to be false. Any reason to go with one over the other? I am looking for a glossy screen, I think the evolution glossies are not produced now?


Some Ebay sellers still have some stock of the glossy screen. I just purchased one from Worldsbest and it has already been shipped.


----------



## lightsout

I saw that. I won't have funds until a week from Wednesday. Hoping to still score one.


----------



## Sannakji

LOL at that name... X-star DP2710LED... is that a zero or an 'O'... ;P Koreans will try any dirty trick in the book haha.

Is there any noticeable improvement in this model over their first ones? Still the standard IPS etc.? The name is getting me hopefull hah.







Would people consider this the best option? I'm not going to be overclocking it. I'd rather have HDMI than the ability to overclock, but that's so rare on these monitors...

(+REP given to you guys that help out here cause I've visited this thread often and seen you guys giving a lot of advice.







)


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> LOL at that name... X-star DP2710LED... is that a zero or an 'O'... ;P Koreans will try any dirty trick in the book haha.
> 
> Is there any noticeable improvement in this model over their first ones? Still the standard IPS etc.? The name is getting me hopefull hah.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would people consider this the best option? I'm not going to be overclocking it. I'd rather have HDMI than the ability to overclock, but that's so rare on these monitors...
> 
> (+REP given to you guys that help out here cause I've visited this thread often and seen you guys giving a lot of advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The X-Star DP2710 is actually a Samsung PLS panel, and it is a 0 (zero). I personally have this model. It only has 1 input and it Dual link DVI. The QNIX Evolution II is the same panel as the X-Star, the only difference is that you can find a Qnix evolution II in a multi input model. The multi input model does have an Hdmi input along with dual link dvi but from the reviews I have read, that model is not overclockable. The PLS panel is produced by Samsung and it's just there version as the IPS panel is produced by LG.


----------



## The Storm

Double Pls delete


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Im going to be ordering one. Im just worried about customs. What happens if customs puts there dirty hands on it.. Does it still get shipped after they are done, or does it sit there till you pay them something.. Anyone have any info on this.. I know my luck is that they would check my package and just thought thought makes me uneasy. I dont want to have to deal with trying to get the damn thing delivered. Its cheap enough where i wouldnt worry to much about warranty or the thing burning out in a year or 2. I do however dont like the thought of dead pixels. Light bleeding is easy enough to kinda fix... The bezel is to thick for my liking too, but hey the price is right.









edit: What about the power brick, are they all still 220? Or did they finally make it usa compatible.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Im going to be ordering one. Im just worried about customs. What happens if customs puts there dirty hands on it.. Does it still get shipped after they are done, or does it sit there till you pay them something.. Anyone have any info on this.. I know my luck is that they would check my package and just thought thought makes me uneasy. I dont want to have to deal with trying to get the damn thing delivered. Its cheap enough where i wouldnt worry to much about warranty or the thing burning out in a year or 2. I do however dont like the thought of dead pixels. Light bleeding is easy enough to kinda fix... The bezel is to thick for my liking too, but hey the price is right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: What about the power brick, are they all still 220? Or did they finally make it usa compatible.


Are you in the U.S? As far as know we have a free trade agreement with Korea, I didn't have any problems with customs. It landed in Anchorage AK, passed customs and was in Indy the next morning. I personally ordered the X-Star from dreamseller and I did not get the pixel perfect model and it arrived pixel perfect and over clocked to 120hz. The power brick comes with an adapter to plug in to 110, but I set that aside and used the standard power cord from a spare psu laying around, I think everyone has those standard 3 pin input power plugs laying around.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Are you in the U.S? As far as know we have a free trade agreement with Korea, I didn't have any problems with customs. It landed in Anchorage AK, passed customs and was in Indy the next morning. I personally ordered the X-Star from dreamseller and I did not get the pixel perfect model and it arrived pixel perfect and over clocked to 120hz. The power brick comes with an adapter to plug in to 110, but I set that aside and used the standard power cord from a spare pau laying around, I think everyone has those standard 3 pin input power plugs laying around.


I bought mine at radioshack, the power plug, no adapters for me

i went down to 90hz, any higher and the gamme is just to off for me


----------



## Joeking78

Just ordered this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261194776123?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Can't wait to get hold of it









Two 290x will be ok for this res @ 120hz?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joeking78*
> 
> Just ordered this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261194776123?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> Can't wait to get hold of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two 290x will be ok for this res @ 120hz?


Haha yeah, that will be a bit overkill. My 7950's overclocked will push mine.
I backed my monitor down to 110hz, and run my cards at 1050/1500. My 4770k will go higher than 4.6 as well, it's just a personal preference but I like to back things down just a notch or 2 that way I always have headroom and not pushing things too hard.


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Haha yeah, that will be a bit overkill. My 7950's overclocked will push mine.
> I backed my monitor down to 110hz, and run my cards at 1050/1500. My 4770k will go higher than 4.6 as well, it's just a personal preference but I like to back things down just a notch or 2 that way I always have headroom and not pushing things too hard.


Thank you


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joeking78*
> 
> Thank you


No problem


----------



## Sannakji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> The X-Star DP2710 is actually a Samsung PLS panel, and it is a 0 (zero). I personally have this model. It only has 1 input and it Dual link DVI. The QNIX Evolution II is the same panel as the X-Star, the only difference is that you can find a Qnix evolution II in a multi input model. The multi input model does have an Hdmi input along with dual link dvi but from the reviews I have read, that model is not overclockable. The PLS panel is produced by Samsung and it's just there version as the IPS panel is produced by LG.


Wow, they're double the price! About the same cost as buying a monitor and T.V. seperately... hmm...


----------



## tennisski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazedmonk86*
> 
> X-star DP2710LED Ordered from Dream-seller on 11/23/13 Shipping to Boise Idaho.


I bought mine from Bizaroo on Amazon, and it was 5 days total from clicking "purchase" to having them on my doorstep in Meridian, Idaho...ordered on Thursday, delivered on Tuesday!!


----------



## Stim0x

Not sure if anyone else has had any success getting new PCBs from their resellers, but to confirm - Dream-seller will not ship replacement parts.


----------



## Darkshowdo

I've had my monitor for a couple months already but i was just getting it setup, Finally got a VESA desk mount for my two monitors so its much better then before.
For what ever reason though my small Samsung TV VESA holes are near the top of the TV causing it to sit low on the desk. Which is fine for now ill be getting a new one soon.


----------



## Jotaro

Am I good to use a single GTX 680 with this thing?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jotaro*
> 
> Am I good to use a single GTX 680 with this thing?


You should be good. You for sure won't be able to max games like BF4 out, but lowering the AA and some other settings and you'll do just fine.


----------



## LunaP

Welp after contacting the seller a few times, finally got a response, and nearly the same time he responded as about 30 minutes after the monitor left customs in LAX after sitting there nearly a week, so I'm pretty sure it was requiring something from him









Either way looks like it should be here by tuesday hopefully, even though I'm just a 45 minute plane trip, unless it leaves super early morning from there hits the post office here around 8am gets sorted and shot out around noon. Here's hoping though.

I'll be running mine on SLI Titans, so I'll be good, may add a 3rd in shortly.


----------



## jincuteguy

So Newegg is having the Dell U3014 for $850 right now. I went to my local Fry's store and price matched it. Brought home the monitor. I tested out the monitor at the store before I bought it. To my surprised that the screen is almost like a PLS panel from the Asus PB278Q. The anti glare coating is almost non existent. So do you guys think I should keep this monitor? I still have 15 days to return back to my local Fry's store.

I always thought Dell have a heavy anti glare coating on most of their expensive monitors, but I was wrong with this U3014 newest model. Did Dell decide to use the PLS panel from Samsung? Because the screen looks really close to the PLS Asus PB278Q monitor (also tested it out at the local store). Any suggestions would be appricaited. I almost jizzed my pants when I first turned on this monitor.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So Newegg is having the Dell U3014 for $850 right now. I went to my local Fry's store and price matched it. Brought home the monitor. I tested out the monitor at the store before I bought it. To my surprised that the screen is almost like a PLS panel from the Asus PB278Q. The anti glare coating is almost non existent. So do you guys think I should keep this monitor? I still have 15 days to return back to my local Fry's store.
> 
> I always thought Dell have a heavy anti glare coating on most of their expensive monitors, but I was wrong with this U3014 newest model. Did Dell decide to use the PLS panel from Samsung? Because the screen looks really close to the PLS Asus PB278Q monitor (also tested it out at the local store). Any suggestions would be appricaited. I almost jizzed my pants when I first turned on this monitor.


They got a LOT of feedback from the U3011 monitors lol AG was one of the biggest complaints. I was almost tempted to pick one up as there's an overstock business buyout near me and they have 12 extras left over which are going for 550$ a pop, unopened / includes default warranty etc.

Honestly @ the price of the X star/Qnix I'd order one to verify myself, if I hated it I'd return it and go back to the commercial world. That's what I'm doing w/ this one I ordered, if I like it I'll get 3 more, if not then either the Dell U3014 or the PB278Q and after which I'll just remove the AG off myself.


----------



## Ripsnort

I just pulled the trigger on a X-star DP2710LED. After talking to "The Storm" I'm very comfortable with the purchase. The current deal on Ebay is hard to beat. - $279 with free shipping!

Thanks to "The Storm" for all the help and info ~


----------



## netdevil

After discovering this thread I couldn't stop looking at the ebay listing







so you guessed it had to pulled the trigger to stop the itch









Can't wait to be a member


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ripsnort*
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on a X-star DP2710LED. After talking to "The Storm" I'm very comfortable with the purchase. The current deal on Ebay is hard to beat. - $279 with free shipping!
> 
> Thanks to "The Storm" for all the help and info ~


Congrats on the purchase, these monitors are awesome!! Hey no problem man glad I could help


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Are you in the U.S? As far as know we have a free trade agreement with Korea, I didn't have any problems with customs. It landed in Anchorage AK, passed customs and was in Indy the next morning. I personally ordered the X-Star from dreamseller and I did not get the pixel perfect model and it arrived pixel perfect and over clocked to 120hz. The power brick comes with an adapter to plug in to 110, but I set that aside and used the standard power cord from a spare psu laying around, I think everyone has those standard 3 pin input power plugs laying around.


Ahh ok. That sounds good Im in South Dakota, so I hope its just as quick as your.


----------



## semajha

I still can't make up my mind... One day I'll be so sure to pull the trigger and then later, I'll have second thoughts and hesitate... Maybe I should just save up a little more for the asus pb27q...









Has green-sum's reputation been typically good? I'm not too worried about how fast they ship, more concerned about their return/replacement policy.


----------



## jincuteguy

Yea the Dell U3014 that I just got today at $850, the anti glare coating is so good, it's like non-existent. Now whether I should return it within 15days and get those Qnix / Xstar on ebay or keep this.


----------



## semajha

honestly, if I had the money to get that dell and the anti glare coating wasn't bad. I'd keep it. Not worth taking the gamble, unless you really care that much about overclocking... I'm broke, so it's a different story.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Congrats on the purchase, these monitors are awesome!! Hey no problem man glad I could help


So where is the magic place so I can bookmark, as thats 100$ less than what I paid for lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea the Dell U3014 that I just got today at $850, the anti glare coating is so good, it's like non-existent. Now whether I should return it within 15days and get those Qnix / Xstar on ebay or keep this.


You've got me more than tempted, and you cold always just get 2 xstars as left and right monitors to go beside it. I'm tempted to find out if I can use my Dell Discount to take off an addiional 17% , highly doubt it but worth a shot.

I'll be stopping by fry's tomorrow anyways, to exchange my 4960X for a 4930K so I'll see if I can get them to take it off the shelf and hook it up since when its on a 50 split box the quality isn't as great |:


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So where is the magic place so I can bookmark, as thats 100$ less than what I paid for lol.


Dreamseller on ebay, it was $279 shipped to my door, it arrived pixel perfect and virtually no blb.


----------



## Lysergix710

If my overclocked monitor has some really slight black lines near the edges, almost like extremely faint tears. Can i adjust my timings to remove them ?


----------



## jincuteguy

For anyone that has a U3011 or U3014, do you guys have the preset for Srgb? Im looking through my U3014 right now and there's no Srgb preset mode. I see "standard" , "movie", "gaming", etc modes just no Srgb.

Edited: Nvm, I got the SRGB mode now.

Also, does anyone know if this U3014 support Audio?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lysergix710*
> 
> If my overclocked monitor has some really slight black lines near the edges, almost like extremely faint tears. Can i adjust my timings to remove them ?


I have no idea what you mean by that. Perhaps you can elaborate a bit more or post some photos.


----------



## Lysergix710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> I have no idea what you mean by that. Perhaps you can elaborate a bit more or post some photos.


I will post some pictures later of 120hz, i dont think you will be able to see much they are really faint at 96hz just like darker patches of monitor tearing out from the edges. Really only noticable while browsing/scrolling mainly and certain colour pages make it stand out more.


----------



## Joeking78

Just got confirmation that my Qnix has been shipped







Hopefully here for the weekend.


----------



## joej323

Will the de-bezel mods posted for the Qnix work the same way for X-Star? I'm having trouble passing up the $280 deal on ebay as well...


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lysergix710*
> 
> I will post some pictures later of 120hz, i dont think you will be able to see much they are really faint at 96hz just like darker patches of monitor tearing out from the edges. Really only noticable while browsing/scrolling mainly and certain colour pages make it stand out more.


Sounds like monitor burn-in to me.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Sounds like monitor burn-in to me.


i agree.....is it not your browser bar you can see?


----------



## GiveMeHope

Hi all

I'm having an odd issue with my Qnix QX2710. When I bought it, I was using a Geforce 770 and it worked well and overclocked to 120 Hz with no problems. Today I upgraded to a Geforce 780 Ti and reinstalled drivers and the settings etc, but the thing is that now it's working really bad. It doesn't overclock one tiny bit (after any overclock the screen is fine after a few seconds and then turns blue and everything is messed up). Also even without any overclock now the screen is flickering all the time. I can easily see the backlight turning on and off.

Any idea what the problem might be?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> I'm having an odd issue with my Qnix QX2710. When I bought it, I was using a Geforce 770 and it worked well and overclocked to 120 Hz with no problems. Today I upgraded to a Geforce 780 Ti and reinstalled drivers and the settings etc, but the thing is that now it's working really bad. It doesn't overclock one tiny bit (after any overclock the screen is fine after a few seconds and then turns blue and everything is messed up). Also even without any overclock now the screen is flickering all the time. I can easily see the backlight turning on and off.
> 
> Any idea what the problem might be?


Does the same thing happen when you put the 770 (if you still have it?) Maybe try reinstalling drivers using DDU from the Nvidia forums and see if the same thing happens.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Does the same thing happen when you put the 770 (if you still have it?) Maybe try reinstalling drivers using DDU from the Nvidia forums and see if the same thing happens.


I don't have the 770 anymore (sold it). I tried reinstalling drivers (cleaned with DDU and done everything from scratch), it's the same.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> I don't have the 770 anymore (sold it). I tried reinstalling drivers (cleaned with DDU and done everything from scratch), it's the same.


Does the nvidia control panel have a option for operating at different frequencies for high resolution displays like AMD??? My overclock seems to act a little funky with wierd vibrations after doing a driver update everytime, i just check that option and it fixes it then i uncheck it and it's fine after that.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Does the nvidia control panel have a option for operating at different frequencies for high resolution displays like AMD??? My overclock seems to act a little funky with wierd vibrations after doing a driver update everytime, i just check that option and it fixes it then i uncheck it and it's fine after that.


I'm not sure but I don't think so.


----------



## ya mother

Got my qnix today from greensum with no dead pixels (paid the extra for that) and i didnt get a tempered glass this time i went for a Glossy.....problem is it seems a bit washed out and not as vibrant to me than the last one......im not sure how you sort this out?.....is there a step by step guide to adding a profile?.....all im doing is fiddling around in nvidia control panel.


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> Got my qnix today from greensum with no dead pixels (paid the extra for that) and i didnt get a temepered glass this time i went for a Glossy.....problem is it seems a bit washed out and not as vibrant to me than the last one......im not sure how you sort this out?.....is there a step by step guide to adding a profile?.....all im doing is fiddling around in nvidia control panel.


The first post in this thread has some good information on adding profiles. I've been playing around with them too. I loaded one up that made it a little better but I too find the brightness to be not what I was hoping. Hopefully I can find a profile that will sort that out.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> The first post in this thread has some good information on adding profiles. I've been playing around with them too. I loaded one up that made it a little better but I too find the brightness to be not what I was hoping. Hopefully I can find a profile that will sort that out.


Try mine out, it's for max brightness and 96hz ...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/tits31.icm


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joej323*
> 
> Will the de-bezel mods posted for the Qnix work the same way for X-Star? I'm having trouble passing up the $280 deal on ebay as well...


For what it's worth they're both the exact same models so I don't see an issue.


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Try mine out, it's for max brightness and 96hz ...
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/tits31.icm


Nice I'll check it out when I get home.

I do use 120hz, is there any problem with me loading this if I use 120hz?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Nice I'll check it out when I get home.
> 
> I do use 120hz, is there any problem with me loading this if I use 120hz?


Won't be any issues, there is just more of a gamma shift @ 120hz as opposed to 96hz.


----------



## hoonstar

When I OC to 96Hz I hear a very faint buzzing in the background

When I OC to 120Hz I hear it a little bit louder

Is this safe? what does it mean?


----------



## wjmeyer

I ordered my X-Star 27" 2560x1440 monitor from dream-seller via eBay, it arrived in a week. The monitor has no (correction dead pixels, and no backlight bleed (yea), works with MSI low-profile HD6570 graphics card, but I needed 120v power cord for power brick. The tilt stem wouldn't move (the 2 screws holding it within the monitor case are probably too tight), so rather than take the monitor apart and risk messing up something, I built a stand to mount to the 4 VESA mount screw holes with a wood base and 2 metal brackets, It works fine and is more stable than stock stand. I don't need to overclock since I rarely play games (more interested in stock market watchlists, etc., 60Hz is fine for my use). I'm very pleased with my $279 hi-res monitor, much better than 1080p monitor and great deal.


----------



## Okt00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjmeyer*
> 
> I ordered my X-Star 27" 2560x1440 monitor from dream-seller via eBay, it arrived in a week. The *monitor has no pixels*, and no backlight bleed (yea), works with MSI low-profile HD6570 graphics card, but I needed 120v power cord for power brick. The tilt stem wouldn't move (the 2 screws holding it within the monitor case are probably too tight), so rather than take the monitor apart and risk messing up something, I built a stand to mount to the 4 VESA mount screw holes with a wood base and 2 metal brackets, It works fine and is more stable than stock stand. I don't need to overclock since I rarely play games (more interested in stock market watchlists, etc., 60Hz is fine for my use). I'm very pleased with my $279 hi-res monitor, much better than 1080p monitor and great deal.


No pixels? You sure you don't want to send it back...

Pics of the stand! Love the DIY monitor work...


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Try mine out, it's for max brightness and 96hz ...
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/tits31.icm


right i have the file what do i do with it now?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> right i have the file what do i do with it now?


I would load it by going to start menu, typing in "color" then click on color management, make sure the box that says use my settings for this device is ticked, then add the profile. download mcw from the link below, and install it. restart the computer, once restarted open mcw, make sure it is not the default curve when you open it, meaning it's not a straight line from the bottom left to the top right of the box, it should be a little tiny bit curved for my profile. If it's loaded enter a name for it in mcw, click save, then load it from the drop down box and click force persistent profile, then click load again to make sure it's loaded. works like a charm









http://www.hex2bit.com/products/product_mcw.asp

Don't mind the bad colors in this pic, fraps doesn't use the icc profile for some reason when i take pics, which is why i use dxtory for everything but the desktop, everything else uses the icc profile, fraps might not because i don't have the full paid for version. Here's what it should look like if loaded properly..



EDIT:

I have left the most important step out, you need to place the icc profile in \Windows\system32\spool\drivers\color


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> I'm having an odd issue with my Qnix QX2710. When I bought it, I was using a Geforce 770 and it worked well and overclocked to 120 Hz with no problems. Today I upgraded to a Geforce 780 Ti and reinstalled drivers and the settings etc, but the thing is that now it's working really bad. It doesn't overclock one tiny bit (after any overclock the screen is fine after a few seconds and then turns blue and everything is messed up). Also even without any overclock now the screen is flickering all the time. I can easily see the backlight turning on and off.
> 
> Any idea what the problem might be?


Any thoughts on this? (The old card was MSI and the new one is EVGA).

I also reinstalled all the drivers and completed all the steps, nothing changes. It doesn't even overclock 1Hz above 60. so basically anything above 60 returns a flickering screen. but the screen flickering at normal refresh rates is gone now. I'm using the newest drivers (331.82).


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Any thoughts on this? (The old card was MSI and the new one is EVGA).
> 
> I also reinstalled all the drivers and completed all the steps, nothing changes. It doesn't even overclock 1Hz above 60. so basically anything above 60 returns a flickering screen. but the screen flickering at normal refresh rates is gone now. I'm using the newest drivers (331.82).


Used another graphics card (another GTX 770), it now overclocks!

Is there something wrong with the GTX 780 Ti that I have?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Used another graphics card (another GTX 770), it now overclocks!
> 
> Is there something wrong with the GTX 780 Ti that I have?


Hmm.. did you maybe try using a different driver version on the 780 Ti? Very odd problem you have.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Hmm.. did you maybe try using a different driver version on the 780 Ti? Very odd problem you have.


Yes I did use the 331.65 drivers and it was the same.


----------



## Hollowcrown

Anywhere have the glossy model for around $280?


----------



## LunaP

Alright so I just got my monitor, found it was @ the wrong post office as well.

Turned it on ( at work ) and it looks great for 1 , 2nd though ITS MATTE, I clearly ordered gloss, and double checked on amazon, so contacting the seller. Other than that quality is very nice. Sucks cuz now I need to send it back.

Other issue is thing lines keep zipping across the screen, white/gray, not sure what the issue is here, tried connecting to a normal power plug vs using the adapter. So 1st attempt = defect I believe + received the wrong monitor |: Also the box says DP2710LED/MDP but on the side it has DP2710LED checked vs DP2710LED/MDP not sure what this means.

Gonna order from dream seller and hope I get a better model, I'm in love though no qualms if I get a good batch.

Also is there any diff between tempered glass and glossy?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Glossy-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932580721?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e7171

vs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Glossy-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932580721?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e7171

besides the price.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Just ordered my Qnix off of Amazon, had a gift card there but also with Amazon I should be getting it by Wednesday and if I don't like it I can return it without hassle. Glad to finally be joining the club!!!!!

Been wanting a proper 1440p monitor for a while now







WOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!


----------



## Okt00

Ordered on Thursday, showed up at work here this morning. Gotta say I'm a little excited to get this thing home and onto it's arm. (Which is clamped to the desk and wired up waiting.)


----------



## Captivate

Ordered one last week and it just arrived today. It's pretty stunning compared to my 24" 1080p Gaming display.

My eyes hurt though, anyone else experienced the same? Is it too bright? I'm a monitor noob, no idea how to set this thing up properly.


----------



## LunaP

Anyone else ever receive matte vs gloss or vice versa?

Also any idea what the white/gray lines that run across the screen are almost like bad voltage or signal or something. Bad cable possibly? I have it on a DP --> Dual DVI converter atm on my laptop just testing it atm.


----------



## GoEz

I want to bite on one of these for xmas, but as a gamer I'm concerned with the motion bleed some people have mentioned. I spend most of my time on Battlefield, can anyone shed some light on how noticeable this is? For reference my current monitor has 5ms response, will I notice any difference switching to a Korean panel?


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I have it on a DP --> Dual DVI converter atm on my laptop just testing it atm.


that's probably the issue right there


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Joseph Dirt*
> 
> that's probably the issue right there


Are there any converter cables people recommend then ? I have 2 titans but plan on 3 of these monitors, each titan only has 1 DVI-D port. The rest is HDMI/DVI-I/DP


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Won't be any issues, there is just more of a gamma shift @ 120hz as opposed to 96hz.


Hmm, your profile made my screen seem a little bit more red, which I think made it look darker than what I'm using now.

Where can I go in my system to see what my current settings are for brightness, etc.?

I see settings in Nvidia Control Panel but they are set to "Other Applications control color settings"


----------



## LunaP

Also any ebay sellers that are within the US or close enough to where I could get it within 2-3 days vs waiting 5 days for customs to clear? I really wanna get one now that I've received this one, gonna sell the current one I have to a coworker at least if the cables fine and wait for a gloss.

This thing is the real deal.


----------



## driedupfish

Hey guys/girls, I have just ordered the X-Star from Dream-Seller. Do I need some sort of power adapter converter? I live in the US btw.


----------



## deathsycthehe11

I have a AMD HD5850. Anybody know the reasons why is not supported with this monitor?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> Hey guys/girls, I have just ordered the X-Star from Dream-Seller. Do I need some sort of power adapter converter? I live in the US btw.


You dont need a power adapter, but I would use a different cable. The plug in on the power block is the same 3 pin plug in thats on every power supply out there. I just grabbed an old spare PSU power cable and used it instead.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathsycthehe11*
> 
> I have a AMD HD5850. Anybody know the reasons why is not supported with this monitor?


where did you get the information that it is not supported? According to http://www.amd.com/US/PRODUCTS/DESKTOP/GRAPHICS/ATI-RADEON-HD-5000/HD-5850/Pages/ati-radeon-hd-5850-overview.aspx#2 it has a dual link dvi output.


----------



## 5thape

I just received my X-Star today and having two issues. First there is no signal being sent from my video card to the monitor. The monitor is powered and when I turn it on it flashes red, green and blue but then the blue light in the front of the monitor blinks and nothing is on the screen. Second, there's a pretty large gap between the top and bottom screen and the bezel. Has anyone had the same problems?


----------



## rumon

Hi All,

My QNIX arrived today, best £225 (including DHL duty fee). No dead pixels and some 


http://imgur.com/Fcv9z1F

, it's not really bothering me at the moment to open it up and sort out.

Coming from dual 20" monitors the amount of screen real estate is crazy







.


----------



## Captivate

Found 1 dead pixel :'(
Also some BLB. Oh well, I knew what to expect for this price, still a good product. Unfortunately, cannot unsee.


----------



## deathsycthehe11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> where did you get the information that it is not supported? According to http://www.amd.com/US/PRODUCTS/DESKTOP/GRAPHICS/ATI-RADEON-HD-5000/HD-5850/Pages/ati-radeon-hd-5850-overview.aspx#2 it has a dual link dvi output.


On amazon, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUI44US?tag=li-org-per-mon-us-20
the second picture.


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> Found 1 dead pixel :'(
> Also some BLB. Oh well, I knew what to expect for this price, still a good product. Unfortunately, cannot unsee.


You can give it to me. That way you can unsee it forever


----------



## LunaP

So the seller responded, and apologized for selling me a matte, and offered to return for a refund, or if I wanted to keep it he'd partially refund me.

I have the monitor on at home and no more lines so guessing it was just my Nvidia 335m having startup issues, though worked fine after my last post. Now I'm home and this thing does look amazing though darks are super dark, dunno if theres anyway to turn dynamic contract on/off but next to my HP monitors I can def see the diff in color. For a matte screen its amazing, so I'm sure I'll be 2x impressed w/ an actual gloss.

Dream seller seems to only be selling gloss fro 700$ (why ? ) and there's also tempered glass models which noones gotten back on if theyr'e gloss underneath, better, or just matte /semi.

I'll probably go w/ the accessories person on ebay as they seem to have a good stock of gloss.

The brightness hurts my eyes atm but I can't see anything w/o it up when it comes to blacks and others, they're way to deep lol.


----------



## Diogenes5

Got my X-Star in today. Sprung extra for tempered glass. I prefer the mac cinema display look and coming from an achieva shimian, I had always kicked myself for not getting a tempered glass screen. The glare was a little bit worse but the colors just seem better, and it will be easier to clean.

My monitor overclocks to 110 hz. Tried 120 but the hz test showed that my monitor was maxing out at 110. Not a big deal to me. Played some starcraft 2 and it made a world of difference, I could more accurately see my cursor in intense gaming situations.

The stand is pretty bad but not as bad as the one on my achieva shimian. They put the monitor on tilt which is very annoying. The old monoprice monitor stand I got takes up way too much space on my desktop so I sprung for the gateway monitor stand. I wanted a dell one just because I have owned many dells in the past but for the dells you have to by the stand and their special vesa adapter which is somewhat expensive given you have to pay S&H twice. The gateway wasn't cheap either but at least it has the USB hub.

Sadly, my monitor has a cluster of pixels in the bottom right that glow a little bit brighter than all the other pixels. I assume this is backlight bleed. My achieva shimian basically looked perfect to me so this is a downgrade in that aspect. I knew the chances and I'm ok with it. At least there are no stuck pixels and I only notice it if I'm watching out for it. It is barely noticeable in most situations.

Considering that they charge so much for gaming monitors with fast refresh and crappier resolution/color accuracy from TN panels I am extremely happy with my purchase. It's not perfect but this monitor is a great balance for media consumption, productivity, and gaming.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diogenes5*
> 
> Got my X-Star in today. Sprung extra for tempered glass. I prefer the mac cinema display look and coming from an achieva shimian, I had always kicked myself for not getting a tempered glass screen. The glare was a little bit worse but the colors just seem better, and it will be easier to clean.
> 
> My monitor overclocks to 110 hz. Tried 120 but the hz test showed that my monitor was maxing out at 110. Not a big deal to me. Played some starcraft 2 and it made a world of difference, I could more accurately see my cursor in intense gaming situations.
> 
> The stand is pretty bad but not as bad as the one on my achieva shimian. They put the monitor on tilt which is very annoying. The old monoprice monitor stand I got takes up way too much space on my desktop so I sprung for the gateway monitor stand. I wanted a dell one just because I have owned many dells in the past but for the dells you have to by the stand and their special vesa adapter which is somewhat expensive given you have to pay S&H twice. The gateway wasn't cheap either but at least it has the USB hub.
> 
> Sadly, my monitor has a cluster of pixels in the bottom right that glow a little bit brighter than all the other pixels. I assume this is backlight bleed. My achieva shimian basically looked perfect to me so this is a downgrade in that aspect. I knew the chances and I'm ok with it. At least there are no stuck pixels and I only notice it if I'm watching out for it. It is barely noticeable in most situations.
> 
> Considering that they charge so much for gaming monitors with fast refresh and crappier resolution/color accuracy from TN panels I am extremely happy with my purchase. It's not perfect but this monitor is a great balance for media consumption, productivity, and gaming.


I was under the assumption from reading that gloss > tempered glass. Is it the other way around? Been trying to find out.

Also

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-27inch-DVI-PC-Monitor-/130939708865?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c9d65c1

Looking to order this unless anyone knows anywhere better, OR if Tempered = better than gloss as in still glossy but adds ????????????????

much appreciated


----------



## Diogenes5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I was under the assumption from reading that gloss > tempered glass. Is it the other way around? Been trying to find out.
> 
> Also
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-27inch-DVI-PC-Monitor-/130939708865?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c9d65c1
> 
> Looking to order this unless anyone knows anywhere better, OR if Tempered = better than gloss as in still glossy but adds ????????????????
> 
> much appreciated


It's subjective. Tempered glass adds glare and cost. The effect on color is subjective. Think of glossy as a normal dell ips monitor, not meant to be touched. Tempered glass is like an apple display or a touch display, a smooth layer of glass covering the actual panel. I had a lot of trouble cleaning my Achieva Shimian with normal monitor-cleaning products, but it did have less glare than my current monitor. I did not get tempered glass in the first place because people complained that it was installed after factory manufacture and trapped dust inside.

Nothing is straightfoward. Lots of office workers I know prefer Dell's ultra-thick anti-glare because they are in environments with a ton of ambient light. It all depends on your needs.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Hmm, your profile made my screen seem a little bit more red, which I think made it look darker than what I'm using now.
> 
> Where can I go in my system to see what my current settings are for brightness, etc.?
> 
> I see settings in Nvidia Control Panel but they are set to "Other Applications control color settings"


I wouldn't change any settings in the nvidia control panel while using the icc profile, kind of defeats the purpose. I would just turn the brightness on the monitor to maximum. If it's to dark it could be because you are using 120hz and i'm using 96hz with that profile and maybe you should use a 120hz icc profile or go back to 96hz. As far as it looking more red, calibrated displays are generally warmer, also my display was a little green dominant out of the box so if yours wasn't then there's a chance yours is to red now. I would use this image to make sure your gamma is correct with that icc profile and 120hz, if it's correct the boxes should blend in to eachother if you squint while looking at it...

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diogenes5*
> 
> It's subjective. Tempered glass adds glare and cost. The effect on color is subjective. Think of glossy as a normal dell ips monitor, not meant to be touched. Tempered glass is like an apple display or a touch display, a smooth layer of glass covering the actual panel. I had a lot of trouble cleaning my Achieva Shimian with normal monitor-cleaning products, but it did have less glare than my current monitor. I did not get tempered glass in the first place because people complained that it was installed after factory manufacture and trapped dust inside.
> 
> Nothing is straightfoward. Lots of office workers I know prefer Dell's ultra-thick anti-glare because they are in environments with a ton of ambient light. It all depends on your needs.


Appreciate it, I'll just go ahead w/ gloss then. This matte does look pretty insane but for some reason vs gloss the brightness hurts my eyes, maybe I"m just getting used to it I dunno. Either way is the seller above good?

I'm looking for the fastest possible method of getting my monitor

Also just clocked it straight to 120hz in the nvidia panel so these are pretty solid, brightness went down a bit but bumping the gamma to 1.2 fixed it.


----------



## mboner1

For anyone who is interested here's a download link for a calibration utitlity that has all the tests you could ask for, it's legit and it's free, just download the mp4 version. I think it should be added to the op, not sure how to go about that tho...

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration


----------



## LunaP

Darn it seems all sellers are out of gloss, and stating it's due to supplier no longer making? They said they have CrossOver glosses in stock, how do they compare w/ X-STAR/QNIX?


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> where did you get the information that it is not supported? According to http://www.amd.com/US/PRODUCTS/DESKTOP/GRAPHICS/ATI-RADEON-HD-5000/HD-5850/Pages/ati-radeon-hd-5850-overview.aspx#2 it has a dual link dvi output.


It actually lists the 5850 as not compatible on green-sum's QX2710 page if you scroll down to the VGA section. Not sure why either.

Can't seem to get 120 to work flawlessly on mine. There's the occasional red line across the screen during gaming so I had to downclock to 110, is this a cabling issue or a monitor issue?


----------



## LunaP

Guess I"ll grab a QNIX vs an X-Star granted they're the exact same just feels diff swapping lol.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3

I believe this IS gloss correct? gonna order 3

What I"m not undersatnding is both of these sellers are selling X stars for 500-750$ for the gloss versions.

All I've received in feedback thus far is that they're out , and people won't have more in stock for another couple months or so supposedly.


----------



## mookotheking

Just received my glossy monitor today from worldbest365 aka greensum that was ordered on 11/21 for $295. Its perfect, no dead pixels or back light bleed.


----------



## mookotheking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Guess I"ll grab a QNIX vs an X-Star granted they're the exact same just feels diff swapping lol.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> I believe this IS gloss correct? gonna order 3
> 
> What I"m not undersatnding is both of these sellers are selling X stars for 500-750$ for the gloss versions.
> 
> All I've received in feedback thus far is that they're out , and people won't have more in stock for another couple months or so supposedly.


I sent greensum a question about that listing. He said you have to tell him that you want glossy after buying it, otherwise he said they will just ship a random one (matte or glossy). I just went ahead and ordered from the worldbest365 listing instead which was for a glossy one, so that I wouldn't have to deal with any possible confusion.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Are there any converter cables people recommend then ? I have 2 titans but plan on 3 of these monitors, each titan only has 1 DVI-D port. The rest is HDMI/DVI-I/DP


They work just fine with DVI-I.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mookotheking*
> 
> I sent greensum a question about that listing. He said you have to tell him that you want glossy after buying it, otherwise he said they will just ship a random one (matte or glossy). I just went ahead and ordered from the worldbest365 listing instead which was for a glossy one, so that I wouldn't have to deal with any possible confusion.


yeah greesum hasn't responded to me in days, I've asked him 3x now this week.

Also though for greensums' I see
Estimated between Wed. Nov. 27 and Tue. Dec. 3

and for worlds best I see

Estimated between Fri. Nov. 29 and Thu. Dec. 12

Though how fast did you receive yours, I don't wanna wait a full 9 business days again if possible, and would love to get a 2-3 day as long as customs doesn't hold up. whoever responds/ships the fastest I'm with.


----------



## mookotheking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> yeah greesum hasn't responded to me in days, I've asked him 3x now this week.
> 
> Also though for greensums' I see
> Estimated between Wed. Nov. 27 and Tue. Dec. 3
> 
> and for worlds best I see
> 
> Estimated between Fri. Nov. 29 and Thu. Dec. 12
> 
> Though how fast did you receive yours, I don't wanna wait a full 9 business days again if possible, and would love to get a 2-3 day as long as customs doesn't hold up. whoever responds/ships the fastest I'm with.


I received mine in 3 business days. Ordered on 11/21 Thursday, received today (Monday). I am in NYC.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mookotheking*
> 
> I received mine in 3 business days. Ordered on 11/21 Thursday, received today (Monday). I am in NYC.


Ah ok appreciate it.

The EVO II is the same as the DP2710 Xstar right? I've seen a few diff QNIX's and I know one of the models is the same, so just wanted to verify. Appreciate it.


----------



## mookotheking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ah ok appreciate it.
> 
> The EVO II is the same as the DP2710 Xstar right? I've seen a few diff QNIX's and I know one of the models is the same, so just wanted to verify. Appreciate it.


Yes they are the same.


----------



## jincuteguy

So which seller that you got delayed shipping? I thought most of the sellers ship pretty fast.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mookotheking*
> 
> Yes they are the same.


Ordered from both green and WBC
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So which seller that you got delayed shipping? I thought most of the sellers ship pretty fast.


I ordered from amazon seller was Seonghun. He also sent me the wrong monitor, thankfully a coworker is wanting to buy it off me. Just pulled the trigger on 2 more , 1 from each seller on ebay, I'll see which gets here first. I'll grab the 3rd next week.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ordered from both green and WBC
> I ordered from amazon seller was Seonghun. He also sent me the wrong monitor, thankfully a coworker is wanting to buy it off me. Just pulled the trigger on 2 more , 1 from each seller on ebay, I'll see which gets here first. I'll grab the 3rd next week.


Damn you have a lot of money







Yea I would just buy from Ebay seller like accessoriewhole, dream-seller, or green-sum. Try to avoid unknown seller on amazon.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Damn you have a lot of money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I would just buy from Ebay seller like accessoriewhole, dream-seller, or green-sum. Try to avoid unknown seller on amazon.


+1.

Well 3 monitors worth $300-$400 isn't a lot of money.

Most similar quality monitors go for $800+.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Okt00*
> 
> No pixels? You sure you don't want to send it back...
> 
> Pics of the stand! Love the DIY monitor work...


LOL, too funny


----------



## STaRGaZeR69

Got a QNIX yesterday, this thing is amazing









Ordered a pixel perfect version and it came with no dead pixels and no BLB. Went straight to 120Hz.

Do you guys know of a good timmings guide? After trying with several CRU timmings I can get 119.30Hz, 119.40Hz, 119.50Hz, 119.60Hz... I'm shooting for exactly 119.88, but I just can't get there. Closest is 119.90Hz. Any help?

Also, is there a way to apply new timmings in CRU without restarting?


----------



## spiderxjz82

Don't post around here too often, but I'm trying to research these monitors.

I've got SLI Titans, each Titan has DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI and DP ports, one of each.

Can I run triple monitors on these cards without issue with a monitor such as this (Using two DVI-D and one of the DVI-I ports)?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-Matte-Screen-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/251271988226?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item3a80fa4402

And the next question is that I guess if I can run them, I will be restricted to 60Hz and not able to push 120Hz over DVI-I, for example.


----------



## Jotaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Don't post around here too often, but I'm trying to research these monitors.
> 
> I've got SLI Titans, each Titan has DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI and DP ports, one of each.
> 
> Can I run triple monitors on these cards without issue with a monitor such as this (Using two DVI-D and one of the DVI-I ports)?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-Matte-Screen-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/251271988226?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item3a80fa4402
> 
> And the next question is that I guess if I can run them, I will be restricted to 60Hz and not able to push 120Hz over DVI-I, for example.


To my knowledge if you don't have enough DVI-D ports, you will have to use an active displayport and a converter.


----------



## spiderxjz82

I thought so too, but then noticed this post, didn't know whether it was related at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> They work just fine with DVI-I.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Damn you have a lot of money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I would just buy from Ebay seller like accessoriewhole, dream-seller, or green-sum. Try to avoid unknown seller on amazon.


Yeah, only odd part is neither of those sellers have responded to me for the past 2 days now, even after putting in the orders earlier last night which was about morning/early afternoon Korea time. Still nothing even now. I'm worried more about green-sum as I'm told you have to specify what type of monitor you want regardless of what the description says... and if he ships matte without reading my email I'mma rage.

Ordered from WBC as well as both state 2-5 days so we'll see who actually arrives Friday and who arrives next week. Hopefully this time I get gloss. Once I do I'll grab my 3rd.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> +1.
> 
> Well 3 monitors worth $300-$400 isn't a lot of money.
> 
> Most similar quality monitors go for $800+.


Very true, was originally gonna settle for the PB278Q from samsung x3 and just remove the AG, that or a Dell U3014 x3
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jotaro*
> 
> To my knowledge if you don't have enough DVI-D ports, you will have to use an active displayport and a converter.


I have the Display port -> DVI-D and it works fine, retested @ home on my SLI Titans. Since you have 2 you'll be fine as you'll already have 2x DVI-D's so any of the DP's can convert for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> I thought so too, but then noticed this post, didn't know whether it was related at all.


Not sure about this as when I attempted using DVI-I the monitor wouldn't accept it. Could be the cable though or the adapter, didn't test on my Titan.


----------



## Jotaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> I thought so too, but then noticed this post, didn't know whether it was related at all.


Well either way, your titan will have an active displayport so there's no use gimping yourself on the offchance that DVI-I actually does work.


----------



## Mp0wer

Is it true the tempered glass on QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" is installed after the manufacturer process and will cause dust between the glass and panel, should I stay away from the glass and just get the glossy instead?


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jotaro*
> 
> Well either way, your titan will have an active displayport so there's no use gimping yourself in the case that DVI-I actually does work.


It does but the monitor has no DP right? And I thought that from the description and also from what others have said that DP->DVI adapters won't work?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> Is it true the tempered glass on QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" is installed after the manufacturer process and will cause dust between the glass and panel, should I stay away from the glass and just get the glossy instead?


It's true about aftermarket but causing dust is different, the only caution is that dust MAY get in between when installing. As for anything getting in after, unless you're in a super dusty room the chance even then is super low. If you know what you're doing you can always remove the glass and clean it. I believe its been proven that it's Matte behind it, vs gloss which is a shame.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> It does but the monitor has no DP right? And I thought that from the description and also from what others have said that DP->DVI adapters won't work?


They work I have one.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> They work I have one.


Normal, passive/active DP->SL-DVI will not; unless you run at <30hz.


----------



## spiderxjz82

I see, so currently there is no way to run at 60/80Hz with SLI Titans due to connector limitations?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Normal, passive/active DP->SL-DVI will not; unless you run at <30hz.


Not sure what SL-DVI is but mine is DP->DVI-D


----------



## Mp0wer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> It's true about aftermarket but causing dust is different, the only caution is that dust MAY get in between when installing. As for anything getting in after, unless you're in a super dusty room the chance even then is super low. If you know what you're doing you can always remove the glass and clean it. I believe its been proven that it's Matte behind it, vs gloss which is a shame.


Does the glossy have the matte finish behind it too?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> Does the glossy have the matte finish behind it too?


No , matte is just a film placed over gloss. Another term used for it is AG (anti glare ) coating. most monitors are Glossy by default. If you remove the film ( there's a thread by Call Sign-Vega for it) you'll have a gloss panel. It's a tedious process though.

Tempered glass is more like when you're looking @ an apple cinema display, that type of front.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Not sure what SL-DVI is but mine is DP->DVI-D


Then either you have an active DP->DL-DVI converter (the one with a USB cable) and do not realise it, or you are running your monitor at <60hz (30hz perhaps) or you are seriously violating the DVI spec (which one person has managed to do, but his situation was temporary and for testing only; it was far, _far_ from stable).

DisplayPort is not compatible (by design) with dual link DVI. It is only directly compatible with single link DVI.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Then either you have an active DP->DL-DVI converter (the one with a USB cable) and do not realise it, or you are running your monitor at <60hz (30hz perhaps) or you are seriously violating the DVI spec (which one person has managed to do, but his situation was temporary and for testing only; it was far, _far_ from stable).
> 
> DisplayPort is not compatible (by design) with dual link DVI. It is only directly compatible with single link DVI.


Depends if its multi mode or a single mode Display port though no? Since a multi-mode Display port has circuitry for sending both DVI and DisplayPort signals out of the port. Just look for the ++
Single mode no, you'll need the adapter you specified though.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Depends if its multi mode or a single mode Display port though no? Since a multi-mode Display port has circuitry for sending both DVI and DisplayPort signals out of the port. Just look for the ++
> Single mode no, you'll need the adapter you specified though.


It does not depend on multi-mode or single mode DisplayPort; DisplayPort++ is physically and electrically incompatible with DL-DVI. DP++ cannot physically send out a DL-DVI signal - the electrical pathways simply do not exist. The only way for DisplayPort++ to output a DL-DVI signal is for it to output a native DP signal, then for a converter to read that DP signal, and then convert it into a DL-DVI signal via internal electronics, then re-emit the DL-DVI signal using the adapter's own TMDS clock generator.


----------



## Okt00

So I plugged in my new display last night and went for an OC, I started with 120Hz, whole screen just goes nuts. Tried 96Hz, Still totally bat**** crazy, 80Hz causes flicker and a large bright blue illumination along the top bezel. I tried both the 10ft DVI-D cable I got from monoprice and the one which came with the display, slightly different pattern.

Using CRU is the only value you modify the refresh rate? or do you tweak the other values in manual mode?


----------



## semajha

@lunap Which eBay seller did you purchase your monitor from? Sounds like they have a good return policies.


----------



## semajha

So is there anyone who regrets buying a glossy?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> It does not depend on multi-mode or single mode DisplayPort; DisplayPort++ is physically and electrically incompatible with DL-DVI. DP++ cannot physically send out a DL-DVI signal - the electrical pathways simply do not exist. The only way for DisplayPort++ to output a DL-DVI signal is for it to output a native DP signal, then for a converter to read that DP signal, and then convert it into a DL-DVI signal via internal electronics, then re-emit the DL-DVI signal using the adapter's own TMDS clock generator.


I don't know then, it just works for me, 120hz and all. Also no mine does not have the USB cable. From what I'm pulling up online I"m showing it's possible as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> @lunap Which eBay seller did you purchase your monitor from? Sounds like they have a good return policies.


Both, neither are responding either its been more than 2 days since I started emailing them, and also 14 hours after ordering still nothing, I know its after midnight there now, so hopefully this afternoon. Though it stated same day shipping on one, and I ordered it around 6am their time. So I can't vouch for either. According to 1) Green-sum send's whatever regardless of what you order , even if you buy an item with a description, you'll have to email and specify. And WBC supposedly sends what you order.

Since I've already had one bad experience I feel now I need to verify w/ the sellers to ensure I get what I order now.


----------



## semajha

oh, I referring back to your post about receiving the wrong display(matte I believe, instead of glossy) which seller did you purchase that monitor from? And I'd like to hear some of the reasons why you chose glossy over matte. I know the whole glossy vs. matte topic has been discussed to to death but I always like to hear more opinions and thoughts about it from different people.

my original plan was to get glossy but after seeing so many people not recommending it, it kind steered me away. From my knowledge the matte coating is very light but having experienced the horrors of heavy-anti glare coating on my current monitor, any mention of ag coating makes me shudder.... but then you have the whole reflection and glare issues with glossy. I'm assuming though, that since these displays are quite vibrant and bright it would help alleviate these problems?

Thanks for your reply.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I don't know then, it just works for me, 120hz and all. Also no mine does not have the USB cable. From what I'm pulling up online I"m showing it's possible as well.


Something is up then. What exactly is your setup?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> oh, I referring back to your post about receiving the wrong display(matte I believe, instead of glossy) which seller did you purchase that monitor from? And I'd like to hear some of the reasons why you chose glossy over matte. I know the whole glossy vs. matte topic has been discussed to to death but I always like to hear more opinions and thoughts about it from different people.
> 
> my original plan was to get glossy but after seeing so many people not recommending it, it kind steered me away. From my knowledge the matte coating is very light but having experienced the horrors of heavy-anti glare coating on my current monitor, any mention of ag coating makes me shudder.... but then you have the whole reflection and glare issues with glossy. I'm assuming though, that since these displays are quite vibrant and bright it would help alleviate these problems?
> 
> Thanks for your reply.


Ah that was Seonghyung on Amazon. As for Gloss vs matte, its all personal taste, my friend loves matte w/ a passion, I just love the vibrant colors on gloss tbh, I work with matte monitors at work and gloss at home, so I can clearly feel/see the difference when working with them. Gloss just has richer/deeper/darker colors where areas matte you'll lose some clarity/vibrance in exchange for AG. This isn't always the case but there will always be a difference.

Enter the Xstar/Qnix/DP2710 series.

Their Matte coat is VERY thin it seems, but it's still easy to tell its matte, due to super blurred reflection. The coating isn't grainy at all and feels high quality. So this is one of the few times I'll compliment matte for being so elegant. That said, here's how I see it with gloss. Either way you're going to see a semi reflection, whether blurred as in "somethings there just can't make it out" or "here there's me"
Next depending on how controlled your lighting situation is you'll have minimal to no reflection at all. Anytime my monitors are on I can't see any reflection, and blacks are super deep and rich, and I love it.

If you're by a window w/ the sun directly coming in then that's a different story I guess. Just like if you have your phone outside it's harder to see it though in doors with the brightness on high enough it overlays. For me I covered my window w/ my DVD shelf so there's no bigger there.

Coming from owning/working w/ both for years since the early days of X-Brite from sony to today's versions, I can say this, gloss is more of an acquired taste, while matte is more of a standard , which is why many are so used to it. Gloss is amazing though, given the correct application and quality, though low end glossy's next to high end professional mattes will make people favor matte more.

These are professional style displays I'll give it that, as my artwork, comics, etc in adobe photoshop/flash/Maya etc look way more vibrant (without oversaturation) allowing me to get the most accurate color pallete out.

tl;dr version
Gloss = sexy, and bring out the best in a monitor IMO,

Think of it like a standard photo printing on your printer or using kodak/premium gloss paper to print, you definitely notice the quality of the gloss.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Something is up then. What exactly is your setup?


Twas just my m11x Alienware using DP -> DVI-D cable provided to the monitor to test it while I was at work. Nvidia 335m graphics (optimus)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Twas just my m11x Alienware using DP -> DVI-D cable provided to the monitor to test it while I was at work. Nvidia 335m graphics (optimus)


Single input, or multi-input monitor?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Single input, or multi-input monitor?


Single 1x DVI-D
X star DP2710


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Single 1x DVI-D
> X star DP2710


Needs further investigation. Hmmmmmmmmmm. Something is not right here.

DP cannot, as in physically _cannot_, pass through a DL-DVI signal.
DL-DVI is needed to drive these monitors at native resolution and refresh rate.
SL-DVI is not compatible with DL-DVI signals - they are not interchangeable, and they are not easily (if at all) convertable between each other.
A DP->DVI cable does not have any conversion electronics in it; they are passthrough cables only.
The only person to drive a monitor such as these at native resolution, and native refresh rates, did so via an HDMI->DVI adapter, and seriously violated the DVI spec in doing so, and even then, barely managed to hit native refresh at native resolution.

So. What's going on, hm.... I think we need to figure out what exactly is happening here.


----------



## Crumby

So im interested in buying a Qnix monitor. I saw one on Newegg and was wondering if it was the Over Clockable one. I thought it was because its the one with only the DVI input but i want to check here.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885

Thanks for helping in advance!


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> The brightness hurts my eyes atm but I can't see anything w/o it up when it comes to blacks and others, they're way to deep lol.


Could try f.lux

http://sleepjunkies.com/tools/flux-app-review/

I found it useful to automatically change the brightness according to the time of day and also has keyboard shortcuts to lower/raise the brightness.


----------



## Ovrclck

@Kaiju

Love your avatar


----------



## Captivate

Just discovered another dead pixel







Cannot unsee.


----------



## Captivate

By the way sometimes after a reboot CRU does not save my settings for some reason? Like right now Windows says I only have 60Hz available, but the nvidia control panel says I'm at 110 Hz. And it feels like that refreshrate too, but the problem is when I'm in a game, it will only display the 60Hz, not the 110Hz... Anyone?


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crumby*
> 
> So im interested in buying a Qnix monitor. I saw one on Newegg and was wondering if it was the Over Clockable one. I thought it was because its the one with only the DVI input but i want to check here.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885
> 
> Thanks for helping in advance!


Yes and there are many other sources for that monitor along with the X-Star DP2710 equivalent.

I suggest exploring the first post in this thread.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mookotheking*
> 
> Just received my glossy monitor today from worldbest365 aka greensum that was ordered on 11/21 for $295. Its perfect, no dead pixels or back light bleed.


Is this true that they are the same seller? I just ordered one from worldbest, he had two now its down to one more glossy. Sent an email just to be sure I get a glossy.

The wife is making me wait until Christmas before I get to use it. But I will be testing it out just to be sure everything works in case I need to ship it back.

Hoping for a good OC and that my 660's can handle 1440p just fine.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Got my second Qnix today, unplugged my old one, put in the new one, was initially very pleased as it has absolutely no backlight bleed what so ever, overclocked to 130Hz no issues. Opened up the Google homepage and noticed a problem right off the bat.

(Skip about 15 seconds in, the far shot bleaches the screens)



As is obvious, it has a slight yellow tint to it, and after testing it some more, it has very, very slight black crush. Not sure if this is the norm and my 'white' one is just a lucky one? I know "warm" is often an option on monitors but its something I hate. Anyone able to compare? My old one is totally pure white, the new one is like a very slight sepia filter.


----------



## Jyve

I picked up a Qnix off CL a while back. How can I tell if its glossy or tempered glass? If it turns out to he glass(I think it is) it would appear there is a smudge between the glass and the panel, how do I remove the glass front?

PS: what size screws is everyone using for a vesa mount?


----------



## mackenzielittle

Hey there guys. So I just got my X-Star monitor in the mail and everything is perfect except that there is a fairly noticeable yellow hue. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions or color profiles they might mind sharing to help remedy this? As far as I could tell none of the ICC color profiles that are posted are for an overly yellow monitor. Thanks in advance!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is this true that they are the same seller? I just ordered one from worldbest, he had two now its down to one more glossy. Sent an email just to be sure I get a glossy.
> 
> The wife is making me wait until Christmas before I get to use it. But I will be testing it out just to be sure everything works in case I need to ship it back.
> 
> Hoping for a good OC and that my 660's can handle 1440p just fine.


Would explain things if so, since last night I put in an order for both Worldsbest AND green. Finally 56 hours later Green responded to all 6 of my emails from this week. Basically cut/pasted the same answer to all of them ignoring the questions lol.. but still answered at least one that it would be glossy. He still hasn't shipped though so hopefully it goes out today.

As for worlds best, they both literally gave me 1 star after the purchase, but I think it's automated, no response from him yet though.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mackenzielittle*
> 
> Hey there guys. So I just got my X-Star monitor in the mail and everything is perfect except that there is a fairly noticeable yellow hue. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions or color profiles they might mind sharing to help remedy this? As far as I could tell none of the ICC color profiles that are posted are for an overly yellow monitor. Thanks in advance!


Same boat here, check a few posts up. I was thinking about a colour profile, but I cant think how you could make a monitor display any whiter than it already can through a colour profile.


----------



## lightsout

Two monitors with yellow tint. That sucks, which model and what seller did you guys use?

I had a Shimian and if anything it was a little cool. But to me it made for beautiful whites. I am going to be bummed if the one I just ordered comes with a yellow tint like that. I ordered the glossy evolution.


----------



## netdevil

I just unboxed my QNIX. This is my first 1440p display and I am in awe. I ordered from green sum listing although I saw the worldbest one because of the rep (apparently some say they are the same person here) I wanted the gloss version as described in the listing unfortunately someone here said a note has to be sent to the seller or else you gonna get random matt/glossy. By that time, mine was already shipped imagined how bumped I was. Luckily I got the glossy, perfect panel no blb no yellow hue no dead pixel phew. Thanks to the fellows who contributed to this thread which led to my best buy of the year


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> I just unboxed my QNIX. This is my first 1440p display and I am in awe. I ordered from green sum listing although I saw the worldbest one because of the rep (a*pparently some say they are the same person here)* I wanted the gloss version as described in the listing unfortunately someone here said a note has to be sent to the seller or else you gonna get random matt/glossy. By that time, mine was already shipped imagined how bumped I was. Luckily I got the glossy, perfect panel no blb no yellow hue no dead pixel phew. Thanks to the fellows who contributed to this thread which led to my best buy of the year


They are the same seller, he responded to all my emails, both monitors were shipped @ literally the same time, so it may either be 2 ID's or 2 people in the same store.

He did respond stating he would ensure it's a gloss panel though, I got the tracking info for both.

Oddly Worldsbest365 = Nov 29th - Dec 12th

While

Greesum's = Nov27th - Dec 3rd

They're supposedly both expedited so not sure why the difference if they're the same.

*EDIT*

n/m greensums says expedited , worldbest says outside of US expedited. I thought green was overseas as well ?


----------



## timaishu

Decided to just keep what I have. Not gonna return this one. The white pixel really isn't that noticeable in game anyways as I forget about it when it gets lost in all the other colors and whatever it is I am doing in game. It tends to just blend in. Only time it really bugs me is on this website as the grey/blue background makes it stick out. But ingame usage, I don't notice it hardly ever. I just gotta keep telling myself that I almost kept my last one which had like 4-5 dead pixels and I kinda got used to it. With time, Im sure I wont care.

If anything though, I got a partial refund of 20 bucks out of it. Just to risky I think its to attempt another return.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> I just unboxed my QNIX. This is my first 1440p display and I am in awe. I ordered from green sum listing although I saw the worldbest one because of the rep (a*pparently some say they are the same person here)* I wanted the gloss version as described in the listing unfortunately someone here said a note has to be sent to the seller or else you gonna get random matt/glossy. By that time, mine was already shipped imagined how bumped I was. Luckily I got the glossy, perfect panel no blb no yellow hue no dead pixel phew. Thanks to the fellows who contributed to this thread which led to my best buy of the year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are the same seller, he responded to all my emails, both monitors were shipped @ literally the same time, so it may either be 2 ID's or 2 people in the same store.
> 
> He did respond stating he would ensure it's a gloss panel though, I got the tracking info for both.
> 
> Oddly Worldsbest365 = Nov 29th - Dec 12th
> 
> While
> 
> Greesum's = Nov27th - Dec 3rd
> 
> They're supposedly both expedited so not sure why the difference if they're the same.
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> n/m greensums says expedited , worldbest says outside of US expedited. I thought green was overseas as well ?
Click to expand...

I noticed the different shipping dates as well. Weird if it's the same person but who knows.


----------



## jcleary47

Does anyone know if I need to run the Pixel Clock Patcher anytime I update my Nvidia drivers if I'm running an overclock on this?


----------



## guiscard

I just got my Matte 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor DVI-D from Storewithstory.

It arrived via DHL to Croatia in a week with a 540 Kuna customs and handling fee (as expected).

No dead pixels (it was *not* sold as 'pixel-perfect'), and no light bleeding that I can see.

Beautiful screen, bright and huge compared to my old 22" Dell.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crumby*
> 
> So im interested in buying a Qnix monitor. I saw one on Newegg and was wondering if it was the Over Clockable one. I thought it was because its the one with only the DVI input but i want to check here.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885
> 
> Thanks for helping in advance!


Yes this is the overclockable version.


----------



## Jotaro

I wish my monitor would leave Alaska.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Final Update on my situation. I had received a monitor with a full row of dead pixels, and had to send it back. Dreamseller was very good at communication and being accommodating, but international shipping is a pain no matter what.

Finally got my replacement monitor roughly 2.5 weeks after i ordered the original one. The replacement one is flawless, no backlight bleed, no dead pixel, and overclocked to 120 first try. Cannot be happier to finally have a good solid 1440p monitor. Ive tried out about 4-5 games last night and i have to say that bioshock infinite looks the best on 1440p of all of them. That game is really something else. Cant wait to play through it a second time in 1440.

Overall i dont regret getting the monitor and i dont regret ordering from dreamseller. I think getting a bum monitor is a risk you have to be ok with if you are ordering one of these monitors. It is the trade off for only paying 300 buck for the best monitor you have ever had.


----------



## Jotaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Final Update on my situation. I had received a monitor with a full row of dead pixels, and had to send it back. Dreamseller was very good at communication and being accommodating, but international shipping is a pain no matter what.
> 
> Finally got my replacement monitor roughly 2.5 weeks after i ordered the original one. The replacement one is flawless, no backlight bleed, no dead pixel, and overclocked to 120 first try. Cannot be happier to finally have a good solid 1440p monitor. Ive tried out about 4-5 games last night and i have to say that bioshock infinite looks the best on 1440p of all of them. That game is really something else. Cant wait to play through it a second time in 1440.
> 
> Overall i dont regret getting the monitor and i dont regret ordering from dreamseller. I think getting a bum monitor is a risk you have to be ok with if you are ordering one of these monitors. It is the trade off for only paying 300 buck for the best monitor you have ever had.


What was the damage on the return shipping

Edit: I mean financial damage


----------



## Wakalakaz

none, I contacted Dreamseller and he showed me how to set up a charge on delivery shipment and billed it to his account number. I think since the defect was so large(the full line of pixels was technically 1440 dead pixels XD) he paid for the full replacement. I there was only a handful of dead pixels or maybe too much BLB for your taste i dunno if he would pay the shipping.


----------



## Jotaro

That's excellent to hear, since I've also ordered from dreamseller. I wouldn't attempt a return for a few minor defects, but I'm glad he'll take it back if it's completely busted.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jotaro*
> 
> That's excellent to hear, since I've also ordered from dreamseller. I wouldn't attempt a return for a few minor defects, but I'm glad he'll take it back if it's completely busted.


yeah, i had ordered from him because on the list he is almost flawless and i saw that he had the most "perfect" monitors as of recent. So i think i just had some bad luck. Also his communication was great during the return proccess. Around 9pm central time he would respond to my messages because i assume thats when he wakes up for work. But when i sent him ebay messages after 9 pm he responded to each one within 5 mins making it real easy to ask questions about the shipment and other things that came up during the return.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> yeah, i had ordered from him because on the list he is almost flawless and i saw that he had the most "perfect" monitors as of recent. So i think i just had some bad luck. Also his communication was great during the return proccess. Around 9pm central time he would respond to my messages because i assume thats when he wakes up for work. But when i sent him ebay messages after 9 pm he responded to each one within 5 mins making it real easy to ask questions about the shipment and other things that came up during the return.


Nice. Glad to hear you got a decent monitor in the end man. After that first one and the waiting you deserved it! Waiting for cool new stuff sucks lol.


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Nice. Glad to hear you got a decent monitor in the end man. After that first one and the waiting you deserved it! Waiting for cool new stuff sucks lol.


Haha thanks, the waiting was the worst part! Because they already gave me a taste of the 1440, then I had to go back to my peasant 23in 1080p monitor. Overall it was definitely worth the wait.


----------



## LunaP

Just a heads up on worldbest vs greemsum

Not sure still if theyre the same but worls only responds to emails once a day after which even if you immediately respond he wont respond till the next day. Im canceling my order as I put to verify with me before shipment for product description.

I stated I wanted gloss only not matte or tempered glass and explained my situation. He shipped without reading then responded the next day that its tempered and hopes I like it.

So now im filing to have it returned hopefully before it leaves and leaving negative feedback. Responding only once every 24 hours is horrendous.

Greensum verfified it was gloss and ensured me of it prior to shipping. So just in case any of you are considering gloss from worldbest just be advised hes very slow at responding and you will now need to confirm before purchase as he does not send what is described on the item.

Hope this helps any speedy buyers.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Ive tried out about 4-5 games last night and i have to say that bioshock infinite looks the best on 1440p of all of them. That game is really something else. Cant wait to play through it a second time in 1440.
> 
> I have tried mulitple games as well, Bioshock Infinite is amazing but the one that blows me away so far is Tomb Raider, wow that game is really detailed.
> .


----------



## Jotaro

Hey question. if I get this thing up to 120Hz, will I be able to use Nvidia 3D Vision?


----------



## Wakalakaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I have tried mulitple games as well, Bioshock Infinite is amazing but the one that blows me away so far is Tomb Raider, wow that game is really detailed.


Oooo ill have to pick up tomb raider during a good black Friday sale then.


----------



## iplaybeats

I have the same problem. One of my monitor has a nice white to it ( I think its perfect) but the other one has a very yellow/red tint to it. Even after I used my ColorMunki Display to match both of them, it still doesn't fix it.


----------



## Ovrclck

Alright guys! I finally made the jump! New QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor Glossy from Green-Sum


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Oooo ill have to pick up tomb raider during a good black Friday sale then.


DO IT!! You really wont be dissappointed, visually stunning, and overall good game.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Alright guys! I finally made the jump! New QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor Glossy from Green-Sum


Grats make sure to email him to clarify that you want a Gloss panel, else you may get a matte or tempered glass w/ matte. I just finished opening a case against worldseller, and escalating with paypal atm. Since he refuses to check email anytime other than 9am Korean time, stopping a payment should get his attention pretty quickly. Beware of these descriptions as they're not always what the seller puts. It seems (now experience with 2 bad sellers) that they see you purchased a monitor and just send whatever is available.

Please follow up with him and let us know how it goes.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats make sure to email him to clarify that you want a Gloss panel, else you may get a matte or tempered glass w/ matte. I just finished opening a case against worldseller, and escalating with paypal atm. Since he refuses to check email anytime other than 9am Korean time, stopping a payment should get his attention pretty quickly. Beware of these descriptions as they're not always what the seller puts. It seems (now experience with 2 bad sellers) that they see you purchased a monitor and just send whatever is available.
> 
> Please follow up with him and let us know how it goes.


Already done!, they're quick, they already left positive feedback lol.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Already done!, they're quick, they already left positive feedback lol.


The feedback is automated it seems, as I got it within 2 minutes of payment, but didn't hear back till 16 hours later. Did they confirm it would be Glossy?


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakalakaz*
> 
> Haha thanks, the waiting was the worst part! Because they already gave me a taste of the 1440, then I had to go back to my peasant 23in 1080p monitor. Overall it was definitely worth the wait.


Haha I know how that feels can't imagine going back to my measly 23 incher as well









Enjoy your 1440p mate


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just a heads up on worldbest vs greemsum
> 
> Not sure still if theyre the same but worls only responds to emails once a day after which even if you immediately respond he wont respond till the next day. Im canceling my order as I put to verify with me before shipment for product description.
> 
> I stated I wanted gloss only not matte or tempered glass and explained my situation. He shipped without reading then responded the next day that its tempered and hopes I like it.
> 
> So now im filing to have it returned hopefully before it leaves and leaving negative feedback. Responding only once every 24 hours is horrendous.
> 
> Greensum verfified it was gloss and ensured me of it prior to shipping. So just in case any of you are considering gloss from worldbest just be advised hes very slow at responding and you will now need to confirm before purchase as he does not send what is described on the item.
> 
> Hope this helps any speedy buyers.


Wow that is not what I wanted to hear. Just ordered a glossy from worldsbest last night. I will be pissed if I get a matte while in the meantime all the other glossies get sold by the other guys. I sent him a message on ebay right after payment. I am going to send an email to the paypal adress as well.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Wow that is not what I wanted to hear. Just ordered a glossy from worldsbest last night. I will be pissed if I get a matte while in the meantime all the other glossies get sold by the other guys. I sent him a message on ebay right after payment. I am going to send an email to the paypal adress as well.


Yeah it pissed me off, and his response was every morning @ 9am he responds to emails for the day, = after he responds even if you immediately respond back you won't hear from him again till the next day.

I explicitly put that I wanted gloss only , not tempered glass or matte, or gloss w/ tempered ( which i hear doesn't exist anymore) and he confirmed that it was tempered loooong after shipping it out. Instead of apologizing just said he hoped I enjoy it and if I have any other questions please let him know. I responded back immediately to that and no response, so 12 hours later this morning is when I filed a case with Ebay and paypal , under "incorrect item" and opened a dispute. If he's gonna ignore emails, let's see him ignore the bank.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> DO IT!! You really wont be dissappointed, visually stunning, and overall good game.


+1 agree looks great but was even great looking @1080 really, Black flag I am enjoying maxed out on this screen atm and Arma 3 also does it justice in parts.


----------



## ZeVo

I'm still torn about glossy vs. matte. Really don't know which to choose. I have a window right behind me which sucks, but I always have the blinds closed, so some light still gets through. Should I not risk it and just get matte?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I'm still torn about glossy vs. matte. Really don't know which to choose. I have a window right behind me which sucks, but I always have the blinds closed, so some light still gets through. Should I not risk it and just get matte?


If you like gloss get it, shouldn't be an issue, if not matte's fine as well, I hate matte personally but this once is pretty nice, Still prefer gloss though. On mine its bright but some colors appear really dark its about the dynamic contrast I guess?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I'm still torn about glossy vs. matte. Really don't know which to choose. I have a window right behind me which sucks, but I always have the blinds closed, so some light still gets through. Should I not risk it and just get matte?


Risk it and go glossy + tempered glass









I'm biased tho cos that's what i got and love it!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> The feedback is automated it seems, as I got it within 2 minutes of payment, but didn't hear back till 16 hours later. Did they confirm it would be Glossy?


Just from what is listed on the header of the auction.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

New QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor
★ + 110-240V + 100% Quality Testing + Warranty ★Glossy


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If you like gloss get it, shouldn't be an issue, if not matte's fine as well, I hate matte personally but this once is pretty nice, Still prefer gloss though. On mine its bright but some colors appear really dark its about the dynamic contrast I guess?


Why do you hate matte?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Risk it and go glossy + tempered glass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm biased tho cos that's what i got and love it!


So this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3

And like above, any particular reason you like glossy over matte? Glossy is about $20 cheaper too over matte.


----------



## Marley217

Lurker here:

Thank you all for providing such detailed information on these monitors, and on the ebay sellers.

I purchased a Qnix QX2710LED II at storewithstory, and I have no complaints. The package arrived within a week of transferirng the money, which is crazy fast for dutch customs. I asked if storewithstory would put a lower price on the box, and I ended up paying €57 on import taxes. Which I'm very satisfied with.

Out of the box, whites were a bit yellow when connected to the ati HD6870 and the R9 280x. But after calibrating the gamma in the color management menu, it looks stunning.
Whites are spectacular, blacks are really matte (and actually black) and colors are very realistic and vibrant. My samsung led syncmaster looks like absolute ***** next to this monitor.
Actually, my philips ambilight tv (purchased for €650 at the time) is also lacking compared to the Qnix, although much better than the syncmaster.
Obviously the added pixels is the main reason we buy this panel, and it doesn't disappoint. I love the added space on my screen, and the extra pixels actually make quite the difference in games. 1080p actually feels a bit claustrophobic now, just like 720p used to be.

There are no dead pixels, no backlight bleed and I'm running this monitor on 96hz. The monitor looks and feels very solid, this feels like a professional product.
I did manage to run it on 120hz but there were some horizontal artifacts. When gaming on 96hz I adore the smoothness. Note that it doesn't contribute to smoothness when you have < 60 fps. But when playing some smite, I easily managed to get >100 fps, and smoothness was crazy good. It's quite strange to see gaming characters walk as smooth as people do IRL.
I'm almost tempted to buy something like a R9 290x or GTX 780 to get +- 90 fps on games like BF4 and crysis 3.

When playing movies on this screen, the image is much smoother on 96hz than on 60hz. Yet it's not as smooth as the philips amiblight and its 100hz engine. I believe this actually creates intermediate frames.
I do think playback on the Qnix is smooth enough at 96hz, for me to complete ignore the philips ambilight.

So this turned out to be quite the sales pitch for PLS...*I am in no way affiliated with any Korean PLS monitor brand*


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Wow that is not what I wanted to hear. Just ordered a glossy from worldsbest last night. I will be pissed if I get a matte while in the meantime all the other glossies get sold by the other guys. I sent him a message on ebay right after payment. I am going to send an email to the paypal adress as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it pissed me off, and his response was every morning @ 9am he responds to emails for the day, = after he responds even if you immediately respond back you won't hear from him again till the next day.
> 
> I explicitly put that I wanted gloss only , not tempered glass or matte, or gloss w/ tempered ( which i hear doesn't exist anymore) and he confirmed that it was tempered loooong after shipping it out. Instead of apologizing just said he hoped I enjoy it and if I have any other questions please let him know. I responded back immediately to that and no response, so 12 hours later this morning is when I filed a case with Ebay and paypal , under "incorrect item" and opened a dispute. If he's gonna ignore emails, let's see him ignore the bank.
Click to expand...

I am waiting to see what happens. Sucks cause I don't have the funds to reorder if my money gets tied up for a bit if this goes south. I really hope he sees my email and does it right. I think theres a very good chance that he is out of glossies, hopefully not. I would hope that him waking up to your dispute would have him think twice on sending me the wrong item. We shall see. Thank you for your info. Wish I could just cancel and order from greensum. Waiting game I suppose. The email once a day thing is really lame I agree. Its not that hard to log back on a couple hours later and answer a question.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Just from what is listed on the header of the auction.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> New QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor
> ★ + 110-240V + 100% Quality Testing + Warranty ★Glossy


Description means nothing if the seller doesn't verify the contents of the box, this has happenned to others, so it's an iffy statement, just be sure to email about it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Why do you hate matte?
> So this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> And like above, any particular reason you like glossy over matte? Glossy is about $20 cheaper too over matte.


Cuz it's not gloss









Closest thing I've seen the tempered + gloss is the apple cinema display iirc.

matte IS Gloss just w/ film over it to dull things out, that's why I hate it. It reduces the quality even if by a smidgeon. I have no glare w/ my current monitors, though quality is something you take a small sacrifice for , for those that are in areas where glare is just impossible to escape.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> I'm having an odd issue with my Qnix QX2710. When I bought it, I was using a Geforce 770 and it worked well and overclocked to 120 Hz with no problems. Today I upgraded to a Geforce 780 Ti and reinstalled drivers and the settings etc, but the thing is that now it's working really bad. It doesn't overclock one tiny bit (after any overclock the screen is fine after a few seconds and then turns blue and everything is messed up). Also even without any overclock now the screen is flickering all the time. I can easily see the backlight turning on and off.
> 
> Any idea what the problem might be?


I now know what's wrong, it's my second monitor. Basically the Qnix overclocks with the GTX 780 Ti easily when no other monitor is connected, but as soon as I connect my other monitor (which is a 60 Hz 1080p IPS), the screen starts flickering, even at 61Hz. So basically no overclock with two monitors with 780 Ti. I used DisplayPort, DVI and HDMI cables for the 1080p display, but it's the same.

I did not have this issue with my MSI GTX 770 at all. Has this happened to anyone?

(When I try a lower resolution with 120 Hz, it works).


----------



## mookotheking

Can someone who has actually received a monitor from greensum tell me whats the name on the return address on the shipping label?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Same boat here, check a few posts up. I was thinking about a colour profile, but I cant think how you could make a monitor display any whiter than it already can through a colour profile.


You would be very surprised, actually. You lower the components (of R,G,B) that make the whites yellow and there you go, 6500K whites.

Of course, software calibration introduces minimal gradient loss if not handled at the monitor side (let's say palette becomes 92% of original size for example), but for consumer use it does the job.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> You would be very surprised, actually. You lower the components (of R,G,B) that make the whites yellow and there you go, 6500K whites.
> 
> Of course, software calibration introduces minimal gradient loss if not handled at the monitor side (let's say palette becomes 92% of original size for example), but for consumer use it does the job.


Which there was a way to extract the current profile I have on this one. That way when my gloss comes from greensum ( as long as it's not tempered as well ) I can swap it over IF anything seems off.


----------



## philthy84

I'm scheduled to receive my Qnix monitor today for the glossy version. I ordered from Worldbest and after reading about what's been going on lately I'm a little concerned I won't be receiving the correct monitor type. Is there anyway to tell from outside the box what type of monitor is being delivered? That way I could inspect it before UPS leaves and could refuse delivery if it's the wrong monitor.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philthy84*
> 
> I'm scheduled to receive my Qnix monitor today for the glossy version. I ordered from Worldbest and after reading about what's been going on lately I'm a little concerned I won't be receiving the correct monitor type. Is there anyway to tell from outside the box what type of monitor is being delivered? That way I could inspect it before UPS leaves and could refuse delivery if it's the wrong monitor.


Sadly no these are highly dull looking boxes, part of which I believe is a means to escape import costs, as I noticed " GIFT 100$" was on mine. Each seller could be different though.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sadly no these are highly dull looking boxes, part of which I believe is a means to escape import costs, as I noticed " GIFT 100$" was on mine. Each seller could be different though.


worldsbest is greensum right? On my monitor box it had a hand written label on the side that told what input/screen model it had on it.

Sorry I lied and it just had the different inputs listed on the side with check boxes, not the screen type


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Description means nothing if the seller doesn't verify the contents of the box, this has happenned to others, so it's an iffy statement, just be sure to email about it.
> Cuz it's not gloss
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Closest thing I've seen the tempered + gloss is the apple cinema display iirc.
> 
> matte IS Gloss just w/ film over it to dull things out, that's why I hate it. It reduces the quality even if by a smidgeon. I have no glare w/ my current monitors, though quality is something you take a small sacrifice for , for those that are in areas where glare is just impossible to escape.


Gotcha. Thanks a lot for explaining. I'll get a glossy then. Hopefully they don't run out by the time I get mine.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Gotcha. Thanks a lot for explaining. I'll get a glossy then. Hopefully they don't run out by the time I get mine.


No problem, just go with whatever you enjoy most


----------



## philthy84

I just received my package from Worldbest, going to check things out right now and post an update.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philthy84*
> 
> I just received my package from Worldbest, going to check things out right now and post an update.


Yeah , if you said you ordered gloss, possibly you got gloss + tempered glass, I've never experienced once myself but IF you spot glass, verify its not matte behind it as well. Keeping my fingers crossed for you though.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philthy84*
> 
> I just received my package from Worldbest, going to check things out right now and post an update.


Good luck! Hopefully the monitor comes out tits mcgee.


----------



## philthy84

Ok there is definitely glass on the screen but to me it doesn't look like a matte finish behind it. I wont be able to turn it on till early next week at the earliest. I'm thinking about just asking for a refund already.


----------



## philthy84

Just went ahead and requested a refund from Worldbest and placed an order with Green-sum. Hopefully Worldbest makes the refund process easy.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philthy84*
> 
> Ok there is definitely glass on the screen but to me it doesn't look like a matte finish behind it. I wont be able to turn it on till early next week at the earliest. I'm thinking about just asking for a refund already.


I take it the glass makes the gloss look bad huh? If I were you I'd start the case now with Ebay, that way when the seller comes back he has to respond in via that method. It's his own fault for deceving. I'm getting paypal on now actually to refund me so that he's forced to recall it. I hate dealing with people like this. So definitely glad I ordered from 2 different sellers, HOPEFULLY green-sum is different. He'll be responding in another 5 hours about my tempered glass comment so we'll see.


----------



## APhamX

Hey guys, I have 3x Planar 2710MW's and I'm looking for an upgrade for 3x 2560x1600 monitors and I'm looking at the x star one. I don't want to mess this up. I looked at the perfect pixel model, however reading some things online, some people have had dead pixels even when they ordered the perfect pixel monitor, I'll be using these for gaming and video editing. [Looking at dreamseller atm]


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philthy84*
> 
> Ok there is definitely glass on the screen but to me it doesn't look like a matte finish behind it. I wont be able to turn it on till early next week at the earliest. I'm thinking about just asking for a refund already.


Did you received a matte or glossy finish?


----------



## philthy84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I take it the glass makes the gloss look bad huh? If I were you I'd start the case now with Ebay, that way when the seller comes back he has to respond in via that method. It's his own fault for deceving. I'm getting paypal on now actually to refund me so that he's forced to recall it. I hate dealing with people like this. So definitely glad I ordered from 2 different sellers, HOPEFULLY green-sum is different. He'll be responding in another 5 hours about my tempered glass comment so we'll see.


The glare from the tempered glass is just unacceptable to me. I also sent Green-sum some messages about my purchase asking to to please make sure it's just a plain Glossy screen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Did you received a matte or glossy finish?


Looks like glossy to my eyes but I can't be 100% sure without actually turning on the display and I currently don't have a device right now to use it with.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *philthy84*
> 
> Ok there is definitely glass on the screen but to me it doesn't look like a matte finish behind it. I wont be able to turn it on till early next week at the earliest. I'm thinking about just asking for a refund already.
> 
> 
> 
> I take it the glass makes the gloss look bad huh? If I were you I'd start the case now with Ebay, that way when the seller comes back he has to respond in via that method. It's his own fault for deceving. I'm getting paypal on now actually to refund me so that he's forced to recall it. I hate dealing with people like this. So definitely glad I ordered from 2 different sellers, HOPEFULLY green-sum is different. He'll be responding in another 5 hours about my tempered glass comment so we'll see.
Click to expand...

how long will it take to get back money from paypal? Does the seller have to get it back first.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I picked up a Qnix off CL a while back. How can I tell if its glossy or tempered glass? If it turns out to he glass(I think it is) it would appear there is a smudge between the glass and the panel, how do I remove the glass front?
> 
> PS: what size screws is everyone using for a vesa mount?


No one?


----------



## mookotheking

Does anyone actually have pictures of the tempered glass one?


----------



## mookotheking

How do you tell the difference between tempered glass and glossy? I assume both are reflective. I supposedly have a glossy from worldbest but now I don't know if its tempered glass or glossy. Is there a definitive way of distinguishing between the two?


----------



## lightsout

Glossy screen should be a little soft. And should have some give when you push on the screen. Tempered has a sheet of glass over the screen so it should feel more rigid.


----------



## mookotheking

What is bad about the tempered glass? Is the clarity or colors compromised?


----------



## lightsout

I don't think there is anything wrong with it. I think some just love the look of the glossy version. Since I believe the tempered is matte underneath it kind of kills it for these people


----------



## Jyve

Pretty sure mine is tempered glass then. Looks like I'll be tearing it apart tomorrow


----------



## mookotheking

Is there any way to determine if what's underneath the tempered glass is indeed a matte or glossy screen? I didn't want a matte screen. I won't be able to verify if mine is tempered glass or glossy since I'm on vacation. Now I'm worried. It did look pretty good when I turned it on a few days ago.


----------



## lightsout

Anyone heard from worldbest today yet?


----------



## Ovrclck

Green-Sum just replied to my inquiry. They were about to ship glossy with tempered glass. Hopefully they have just the plain gloss in stock.

"Hello, this is Green-Sum.
First of all, thanks for your order. We will always make our best efforts to support you.

Your monitor has glossy with tempered glass screen. We can say tempered glass is more close to glossy. Due to this issue, we are currently holding your monitor. Could you let us know whether we can ship out your parcel or not? We are waiting for your eBay message."


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Green-Sum just replied to my inquiry. They were about to ship glossy with tempered glass. Hopefully they have just the plain gloss in stock.
> 
> "Hello, this is Green-Sum.
> First of all, thanks for your order. We will always make our best efforts to support you.
> 
> Your monitor has glossy with tempered glass screen. We can say tempered glass is more close to glossy. Due to this issue, we are currently holding your monitor. Could you let us know whether we can ship out your parcel or not? We are waiting for your eBay message."


Beat me to it,

Anyways update for everyone, Green-sum is out of glossy and is only shipping tempered, though he tried to say that he had no idea what monitor I wanted after he repsonded the day before to my "I don't want tempered glass or matte" and stated that it's gloss only. So he's attempting to recall the shipment and refund me.

Worldseller is nowhere to be found, so looks like if he doesn't respond in time Paypal will auto refund me the money in his place. Apparently the factories haven't made any new gloss monitors in a while so there's a shortage.

This really sucks, both sellers gipped me now + the one from amazon, I'm having horrible luck getting one of these.

Update paypal just refunded me from Worldbest without issue.

Now another word from the Amazon dealer which many of you should pay attention to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amazon Seller*
> The person in disributor who ship the goods recently changed.
> He sent the wrong monitor to us. That was what happen.
> We are very sorry.
> 
> *Please check US$298 panel and manufacturing date.
> If it has been manufactured several months with LG panel, please do not buy.*
> If it is samsung panel, it is good buying.


Basically for these 300$ and below Monitors verify with the seller that these are indeed Samsung PLS and NOT LG IPS in disguise, apparently alot have been sold under the name QNIX/XSTAR so be careful!

Back to waiting another 24 hours before Green-sum replies again


----------



## cudamac

Hey everyone, i recently purchased a qnix monitor this past sunday, and it finally arrived today. only problem is, ive plugged it in and got no picture. well i swapped dvi-d cables and outputs on my gpu and such, well i discovered that the monitor is in fact on, and connected.... but the backlight is not on, like an old gameboy. ive searched google and read thru this thread quite a bit, but havent come across anyone else with this problem. what do i do!?
any info will help me out a ton, thanks


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Green-Sum just replied to my inquiry. They were about to ship glossy with tempered glass. Hopefully they have just the plain gloss in stock.
> 
> "Hello, this is Green-Sum.
> First of all, thanks for your order. We will always make our best efforts to support you.
> 
> Your monitor has glossy with tempered glass screen. We can say tempered glass is more close to glossy. Due to this issue, we are currently holding your monitor. Could you let us know whether we can ship out your parcel or not? We are waiting for your eBay message."
> 
> 
> 
> Beat me to it,
> 
> Anyways update for everyone, Green-sum is out of glossy and is only shipping tempered, though he tried to say that he had no idea what monitor I wanted after he repsonded the day before to my "I don't want tempered glass or matte" and stated that it's gloss only. So he's attempting to recall the shipment and refund me.
> 
> Worldseller is nowhere to be found, so looks like if he doesn't respond in time Paypal will auto refund me the money in his place. Apparently the factories haven't made any new gloss monitors in a while so there's a shortage.
> 
> This really sucks, both sellers gipped me now + the one from amazon, I'm having horrible luck getting one of these.
> 
> Update paypal just refunded me from Worldbest without issue.
> 
> Now another word from the Amazon dealer which many of you should pay attention to.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Amazon Seller*
> The person in disributor who ship the goods recently changed.
> He sent the wrong monitor to us. That was what happen.
> We are very sorry.
> 
> *Please check US$298 panel and manufacturing date.
> If it has been manufactured several months with LG panel, please do not buy.*
> If it is samsung panel, it is good buying.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Basically for these 300$ and below Monitors verify with the seller that these are indeed Samsung PLS and NOT LG IPS in disguise, apparently alot have been sold under the name QNIX/XSTAR so be careful!
> 
> Back to waiting another 24 hours before Green-sum replies again
Click to expand...

Crap!! Good to know! Thanks for the update.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Crap!! Good to know! Thanks for the update.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


NP My Amazon seller has a few gloss in stock but they're about 60-80$ more, but if he's confirming they're PLS at least, and he's going to give me a discount for the wrong item, so I'll try him one more time, honestly even in the upper 300's these monitors are literally a steal.


----------



## Ovrclck

Do these ebay sellers like to mess with us in the U.S? I literally replied seconds after I received their msg. No reply









I only heard from what I read that they will usually reply once a day at most?lol


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Green-Sum just replied to my inquiry. They were about to ship glossy with tempered glass. Hopefully they have just the plain gloss in stock.
> 
> "Hello, this is Green-Sum.
> First of all, thanks for your order. We will always make our best efforts to support you.
> 
> Your monitor has glossy with tempered glass screen. We can say tempered glass is more close to glossy. Due to this issue, we are currently holding your monitor. Could you let us know whether we can ship out your parcel or not? We are waiting for your eBay message."


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Green-Sum just replied to my inquiry. They were about to ship glossy with tempered glass. Hopefully they have just the plain gloss in stock.
> 
> "Hello, this is Green-Sum.
> First of all, thanks for your order. We will always make our best efforts to support you.
> 
> Your monitor has glossy with tempered glass screen. We can say tempered glass is more close to glossy. Due to this issue, we are currently holding your monitor. Could you let us know whether we can ship out your parcel or not? We are waiting for your eBay message."
> 
> 
> 
> Beat me to it,
> 
> Anyways update for everyone, Green-sum is out of glossy and is only shipping tempered, though he tried to say that he had no idea what monitor I wanted after he repsonded the day before to my "I don't want tempered glass or matte" and stated that it's gloss only. So he's attempting to recall the shipment and refund me.
> 
> Worldseller is nowhere to be found, so looks like if he doesn't respond in time Paypal will auto refund me the money in his place. Apparently the factories haven't made any new gloss monitors in a while so there's a shortage.
> 
> This really sucks, both sellers gipped me now + the one from amazon, I'm having horrible luck getting one of these.
> 
> Update paypal just refunded me from Worldbest without issue.
> 
> Now another word from the Amazon dealer which many of you should pay attention to.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Amazon Seller*
> The person in disributor who ship the goods recently changed.
> He sent the wrong monitor to us. That was what happen.
> We are very sorry.
> 
> *Please check US$298 panel and manufacturing date.
> If it has been manufactured several months with LG panel, please do not buy.*
> If it is samsung panel, it is good buying.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Basically for these 300$ and below Monitors verify with the seller that these are indeed Samsung PLS and NOT LG IPS in disguise, apparently alot have been sold under the name QNIX/XSTAR so be careful!
> 
> Back to waiting another 24 hours before Green-sum replies again
Click to expand...

Thanks for the updates guys. So it sounds like if worldseller has none I am out. Hopefully I get one as thats what the listing said when I ordered. He hasn't responded yet and its like 1230pm over there.

I really wanted one of these to try and overclock, but I think glossy is more important that possible OC. I may have to look at a shimian which is what I had previously.


----------



## Ovrclck

Wow, this is my first experience, so far I'm definitely not pleased.

Without even replying to my gloss none tempered question. This is their response

"Thank you for your purchase of eBay item #xxxxxxxxx, We appreciate your business.
We hope you receive your package in time.
We are always making our best effort to meet your expectation. However delivery time may vary by location or customs clearance in each country. Please contact us through ebay MY MESSAGE if you have any difficulty before OPENING CASE.
We can resolve any problems through communication. Our Customer Support team will support you.

Our business hour is 9a.m. to 6p.m. if you send a message to us, we will respond in 24 hours.
Feel free to contact us. Thank you."


----------



## lightsout

Hey sorry for the double.

Anyone know anyone other options that have a glossy screen at this price point. I saw one crossover but think its matte. Shimians have gone way up in price.

Also how is the tempered model compared to the matte? Does it look similar to a glossy?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey sorry for the double.
> 
> Anyone know anyone other options that have a glossy screen at this price point. I saw one crossover but think its matte. Shimians have gone way up in price.
> 
> Also how is the tempered model compared to the matte? Does it look similar to a glossy?


I emailed these guys below if their Glossy was indeed gloss and not tempered glass, Samsung PLS and not LG. I'll post what they say asap.
http://www.overclockmonitor.com/new-arrivals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-gsy.html


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey sorry for the double.
> 
> Anyone know anyone other options that have a glossy screen at this price point. I saw one crossover but think its matte. Shimians have gone way up in price.
> 
> Also how is the tempered model compared to the matte? Does it look similar to a glossy?
> 
> 
> 
> I emailed these guys below if their Glossy was indeed gloss and not tempered glass, Samsung PLS and not LG. I'll post what they say asap.
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/new-arrivals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-gsy.html
Click to expand...

Forgot about that site. Price looks good. Don't see anything about shipping is it also free?


----------



## mboner1

Well i just emailed accessorieswhole about my excessively hot power supply, i have had the monitor about a month so i don't expect them to do anything, i just wanted a link to where i could buy a power supply from that would work with the qnix or possibly to buy it from them. This is what they said..

Hi

Thanks for contacting us.
It is normal for the power adapter to become hot during working.
If it become defective, we will send a replacement adapter.
Don't worry about it.

If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you.

I have got to recommend them whole heartedly. They have replied within 5 mins of me sending a message to them EVERY single time.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey sorry for the double.
> 
> Anyone know anyone other options that have a glossy screen at this price point. I saw one crossover but think its matte. Shimians have gone way up in price.
> 
> Also how is the tempered model compared to the matte? Does it look similar to a glossy?
> 
> 
> 
> I emailed these guys below if their Glossy was indeed gloss and not tempered glass, Samsung PLS and not LG. I'll post what they say asap.
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/new-arrivals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-gsy.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Forgot about that site. Price looks good. Don't see anything about shipping is it also free?
Click to expand...

I believe just sales tax.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## lightsout

So worldsbest shipped my monitor without responding to my two emails that I did not want matte or tempered. Just sent another. Don't really see why he could not simply reply unless he is just trying to pull a fast one.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So worldsbest shipped my monitor without responding to my two emails that I did not want matte or tempered. Just sent another. Don't really see why he could not simply reply unless he is just trying to pull a fast one.


looks like we both got shafted. Sigh.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Ovrclck

How easy would it be to remove the tempered glass?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Agenesis

I get no output on my HD 4600. Anybody know what's causing the error?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> How easy would it be to remove the tempered glass?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


I think people have done it but I believe its matte underneath so... may as well get a matte if so.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Thanks for the updates guys. So it sounds like if worldseller has none I am out. Hopefully I get one as thats what the listing said when I ordered. He hasn't responded yet and its like 1230pm over there.
> 
> I really wanted one of these to try and overclock, but I think glossy is more important that possible OC. I may have to look at a shimian which is what I had previously.


Most likely you won't hear from them for another 21-22 hours, they already did their response rounds today, I'm done dealing w/ worldbest365.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Wow, this is my first experience, so far I'm definitely not pleased.
> 
> Without even replying to my gloss none tempered question. This is their response
> 
> "Thank you for your purchase of eBay item #xxxxxxxxx, We appreciate your business.
> We hope you receive your package in time.
> We are always making our best effort to meet your expectation. However delivery time may vary by location or customs clearance in each country. Please contact us through ebay MY MESSAGE if you have any difficulty before OPENING CASE.
> We can resolve any problems through communication. Our Customer Support team will support you.
> 
> Our business hour is 9a.m. to 6p.m. if you send a message to us, we will respond in 24 hours.
> Feel free to contact us. Thank you."


Which seller is that? if any of hte 2 then yeah just like above I've been keeping watch it'll be about 21-22 hours before they respond again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I emailed these guys below if their Glossy was indeed gloss and not tempered glass, Samsung PLS and not LG. I'll post what they say asap.
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/new-arrivals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-gsy.html


Lol I emailed them earlier about it as well, here's hoping for good news.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So worldsbest shipped my monitor without responding to my two emails that I did not want matte or tempered. Just sent another. Don't really see why he could not simply reply unless he is just trying to pull a fast one.


It hasn't shipped yet though, mine stated that for 2 days now but he easily grabbed it back, just make sure to email then raise a case if you need to with Ebay, he'll give you the same excuse he gave me that it was probably one of his workers that fudged the description which is why its confusing, yet they won't change it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> How easy would it be to remove the tempered glass?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Not to hard I'd imagine other than debelzing temp to remove then reapplying.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I think people have done it but I believe its matte underneath so... may as well get a matte if so.


^ This pretty much.

Remember guys verify the 2 of these facts before purchasing:

1) If Gloss is it Tempered Glass?
2) If Matte is it tempered glass?
2) Is it a Samsung PLS Panel or LG IPS

Samsung = good to go LG = CRAP


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Most likely you won't hear from them for another 21-22 hours, they already did their response rounds today, I'm done dealing w/ worldbest365.
> Which seller is that? if any of hte 2 then yeah just like above I've been keeping watch it'll be about 21-22 hours before they respond again.
> Lol I emailed them earlier about it as well, here's hoping for good news.
> It hasn't shipped yet though, mine stated that for 2 days now but he easily grabbed it back, just make sure to email then raise a case if you need to with Ebay, he'll give you the same excuse he gave me that it was probably one of his workers that fudged the description which is why its confusing, yet they won't change it.
> Not to hard I'd imagine other than debelzing temp to remove then reapplying.
> ^ This pretty much.
> 
> Remember guys verify the 2 of these facts before purchasing:
> 
> 1) If Gloss is it Tempered Glass?
> 2) If Matte is it tempered glass?
> 2) Is it a Samsung PLS Panel or LG IPS
> 
> Samsung = good to go LG = CRAP


So if I'm going for a glossy it should or shouldn't be tempered glass? Kinda worried to buy from eBay now. Maybe I'll have some better luck going to another website and buying off there.


----------



## lightsout

Wait when did the lg IPS screens become crap? I think that's false unless something has changed. My shimian was gorgeous. Only reason I'm looking hard for one of these is over clocking and price.

Pretty safe to assume if worldsbest didn't offer a glossy to anyone else then he has none. But I don't really have any grounds to cancel as he hasn't admitted that the product is wrong. I don't want to file a complaint and then have my money tied up forever if something goes weird.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Wait when did the lg IPS screens become crap? I think that's false unless something has changed. My shimian was gorgeous. Only reason I'm looking hard for one of these is over clocking and price.
> 
> Pretty safe to assume if worldsbest didn't offer a glossy to anyone else then he has none. But I don't really have any grounds to cancel as he hasn't admitted that the product is wrong. I don't want to file a complaint and then have my money tied up forever if something goes weird.


Quality is a bit less and the response is lower, that + they're not as high OC champs as the PLS panels are, There's a huge thread on PLS vs IPS for this type, PLS has a better color range, and brightness as well.

As for worldsbest its gonna be tempered glass, When he responds he'll tell you that, and afterwards open a case with Ebay so that 24 hours from his response he'll refund you. Trust me it's Ebay, the buyer is way more protected than the seller. I got my refund from both at the same time so I honestly think its the same person or team.


----------



## lightsout

Yes I'm sure it will be. That sucks. So how exactly do I do that on the orders page of eBay? Hopefully he actually responds tomorrow. Thanks for the info on pls vs IPS. I'm tempted to just keep the glass version. But I will be upset if it doesn't have that pop I am hoping for, as far as color goes. Really don't want to have to go through the hassle of returning one overseas but wish I could try it out first.

Lunap which model did you get sent to you? Glass or matte? How did it look I think you said it was like a semi at? Like a light coating. I may just go with it but would appreciate some input.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Wait when did the lg IPS screens become crap? I think that's false unless something has changed. My shimian was gorgeous. Only reason I'm looking hard for one of these is over clocking and price.
> 
> Pretty safe to assume if worldsbest didn't offer a glossy to anyone else then he has none. But I don't really have any grounds to cancel as he hasn't admitted that the product is wrong. I don't want to file a complaint and then have my money tied up forever if something goes weird.
> 
> 
> 
> Quality is a bit less and the response is lower, that + they're not as high OC champs as the PLS panels are, There's a huge thread on PLS vs IPS for this type, PLS has a better color range, and brightness as well.
> 
> As for worldsbest its gonna be tempered glass, When he responds he'll tell you that, and afterwards open a case with Ebay so that 24 hours from his response he'll refund you. Trust me it's Ebay, the buyer is way more protected than the seller. I got my refund from both at the same time so I honestly think its the same person or team.
Click to expand...


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Which seller is that? if any of hte 2 then yeah just like above I've been keeping watch it'll be about 21-22 hours before they respond again.
> 
> Lol I emailed them earlier about it as well, here's hoping for good news.


haha awesome man. Let's hope!








Green-Sum.

I can always deny the delivery of the monitor. Hopefully it'll be a smooth return.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Yes I'm sure it will be. That sucks. So how exactly do I do that on the orders page of eBay? Hopefully he actually responds tomorrow. Thanks for the info on pls vs IPS. I'm tempted to just keep the glass version. But I will be upset if it doesn't have that pop I am hoping for, as far as color goes. Really don't want to have to go through the hassle of returning one overseas but wish I could try it out first.


You can try http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/cancel-transaction-process.html#open


----------



## mboner1

Well I know at least one other person has taken the tempered glass off of their screen and it was glossy. I am confident my tempered glass monitor is glossy as well. It was confirmed by the seller (accessorieswhole) and compared to my Asus pb278q (matte) it is completely different. I was under the impression all qnix's were pls as well, when did that change???


----------



## Ovrclck

If that's true. I'd rather just remove the glass. That is something I don't mind doing.


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *philthy84*
> 
> I'm scheduled to receive my Qnix monitor today for the glossy version. I ordered from Worldbest and after reading about what's been going on lately I'm a little concerned I won't be receiving the correct monitor type. Is there anyway to tell from outside the box what type of monitor is being delivered? That way I could inspect it before UPS leaves and could refuse delivery if it's the wrong monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly no these are highly dull looking boxes, part of which I believe is a means to escape import costs, as I noticed " GIFT 100$" was on mine. Each seller could be different though.
Click to expand...

I don't recall seeing anyone in USA on this forum saying they had to pay customs fees on these monitors.

I recently received two X-Stars from dream-seller totalling $568 and did not pay any fees.

See my post here for more:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1444232/customs-fees-on-monitors-shipped-from-south-korea-to-usa

Edit: 2 x $279 = $$558.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> I don't recall seeing anyone in USA on this forum saying they had to pay customs fees on these monitors.
> I recently received two X-Stars from dream-seller totalling $568 and did not pay any fees.
> See my post here for more:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1444232/customs-fees-on-monitors-shipped-from-south-korea-to-usa
> 
> Edit: 2 x $279 = $$558.


pretty sure you will never hear of it, since we have a free trade agreement with south korea. I'm no expert but I think it means us citizens won't pay customs/tax on goods received from S. Korea


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Do these ebay sellers like to mess with us in the U.S? I literally replied seconds after I received their msg. No reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only heard from what I read that they will usually reply once a day at most?lol


Dream-seller usually replied very quickly.
He/She said they were there between 9 am to 6 pm their time Mon-Fri.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> Dream-seller usually replied very quickly.
> 
> He/She said they were there between 9 am to 6 pm their time Mon-Fri.


It's almost 5pm their time right now. Still no reply.


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> The feedback is automated it seems, as I got it within 2 minutes of payment, but didn't hear back till 16 hours later. Did they confirm it would be Glossy?
> 
> 
> 
> Just from what is listed on the header of the auction.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> New QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor
> ★ + 110-240V + 100% Quality Testing + Warranty ★Glossy
Click to expand...

When I just clicked on your link, the Glossy is not showing after the second star.
Was it removed?

Edit: Oops! Logged out. Saw eBay page still open and now see:

*★* *Glossy + 110-240V + 100% Quality Testing + Warranty* *★*


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> Dream-seller usually replied very quickly.
> 
> He/She said they were there between 9 am to 6 pm their time Mon-Fri.
> 
> 
> 
> It's almost 5pm their time right now. Still no reply.
Click to expand...

May depend on what you ask and at what stage of the transaction.

Placed my order around midnight PST. 16 and 17 hours later, they sent two emails which I was unaware of.

18 hours, after buying, I received a phone call from what sounded like a young woman asking a shipping question.

I mention that because I was surprised at how well she spoke English.


----------



## monkeys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I'm still torn about glossy vs. matte. Really don't know which to choose. I have a window right behind me which sucks, but I always have the blinds closed, so some light still gets through. Should I not risk it and just get matte?


I have a matte and 2 glossies, in your case matte is my recommendation...imo no brainer


----------



## Harry604

I bought my monitor 2 days ago says it's in ohio now

I messaged greensum to ask again if I got glossy for sure here is his response.. His first response was yes we shipped u glossy

Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.

Since you said you wanted a glossy version, we are informing you about the difference between previous version and current version. Previous glossy version was not coated with any films. So there were lots of problems such as scratches. Since the reason, the manufacturer changed the specification close to tempered glass one so that those problems could be reduced. To make sure, we are holding your item. Please let us know if we can ship the monitor or not.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us.

Thank you.

Best regards,
Green-Sum


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> I bought my monitor 2 days ago says it's in ohio now
> 
> I messaged greensum to ask again if I got glossy for sure here is his response.. His first response was yes we shipped u glossy
> 
> Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
> 
> Since you said you wanted a glossy version, we are informing you about the difference between previous version and current version. Previous glossy version was not coated with any films. So there were lots of problems such as scratches. Since the reason, the manufacturer changed the specification close to tempered glass one so that those problems could be reduced. To make sure, we are holding your item. Please let us know if we can ship the monitor or not.
> 
> If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Green-Sum


Sounds like you just got a tempered glass glossy.

Congrats


----------



## Jotaro

They are taking my package all over North America. First Alaska now Memphis, Memphis is no closer to my house than Alaska was.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jotaro*
> 
> They are taking my package all over North America. First Alaska now Memphis, Memphis is no closer to my house than Alaska was.


That's FedEx for you


----------



## skuko

wonder if any1 can help me with this.

i have a qnix and have this weird problem. i have set up my colors to my liking in the nvidia control panel, but when i launch a full screen game (so far tested with diablo 3), the settings disappear. if i select windowed fullscreen in the game options, the settings from nvcp are kept.

is there any way to force the nvidia control panel color settings at all times?

i also have a secondary monitor DELL U2412, but i don't use nvidia control panel for colors on that.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> wonder if any1 can help me with this.
> 
> i have a qnix and have this weird problem. i have set up my colors to my liking in the nvidia control panel, but when i launch a full screen game (so far tested with diablo 3), the settings disappear. if i select windowed fullscreen in the game options, the settings from nvcp are kept.
> 
> is there any way to force the nvidia control panel color settings at all times?
> 
> i also have a secondary monitor DELL U2412, but i don't use nvidia control panel for colors on that.


Try monitor calibration wizard. Download it, then name it and save it in monitor calibration wizard, then load the profile you just saved in the drop down box, click force persistent profile and click load.

http://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/Video-Tweak/Monitor-Calibration-Wizard.shtml


----------



## Twistacles

Just got my X-Star DP2710 a few days ago from dream-seller.

I was hit with 55$ of import duties (Montreal) but I sorta expected it. Came out to 355$ CAD total so not too bad.

I was a little miffed that I had to take the screen apart to remove the stand, but it wasn't too painful and only took me like 10 minutes.

With the stock cable i'm overclocking at 110Hz. At 120 I get weird blue interlacing lines. Maybe with a different cable that would dissapear but im not complaining!

The colors don't seem too impressive out of the box (compared to my Benq TN panels) but im gonna try out some color profiles and report back.


----------



## Jyve

With the tempered glass can you remove it and reapply it or once the glass comes off its off for good?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> I bought my monitor 2 days ago says it's in ohio now
> 
> I messaged greensum to ask again if I got glossy for sure here is his response.. His first response was yes we shipped u glossy
> 
> Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
> 
> Since you said you wanted a glossy version, we are informing you about the difference between previous version and current version. Previous glossy version was not coated with any films. So there were lots of problems such as scratches. Since the reason, the manufacturer changed the specification close to tempered glass one so that those problems could be reduced. To make sure, we are holding your item. Please let us know if we can ship the monitor or not.
> 
> If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Green-Sum


I got the exact same response from worldsbest. He doesn't say if it's over a matte or glossy screen though. Can anyone here that has the glass version confirm what's underneath.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I got the exact same response from worldsbest. He doesn't say if it's over a matte or glossy screen though. Can anyone here that has the glass version confirm what's underneath.


Different people have reported different things. I believe mine is glossy beneath the tempered glass, but i haven't taken it off. I asked the seller and they assured me it was glossy underneath, this was before i indicated a preference.


----------



## lightsout

OK so you actually own a tempered glass. I would think you would be able to tell if it was matte underneath. So I assume you are correct. I will have to confirm with the seller which it is. Hopefully he knows and is honest.

Someone posted some pictures a number of pages back with tempered vs matte and the glass screen was totally washed out. Black's were gray. There was a ton of light right on the monitor with a really bad glare. So idk. I wouldn't think a piece of glass would change it that much. Hopefully just some bad pictures. Doesn't the iMac have a sheet of glass over it? My moms has a good amount of light in the room and the screen looks excellent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I got the exact same response from worldsbest. He doesn't say if it's over a matte or glossy screen though. Can anyone here that has the glass version confirm what's underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> Different people have reported different things. I believe mine is glossy beneath the tempered glass, but i haven't taken it off. I asked the seller and they assured me it was glossy underneath, this was before i indicated a preference.
Click to expand...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twistacles*
> 
> Just got my X-Star DP2710 a few days ago from dream-seller.
> 
> I was hit with 55$ of import duties (Montreal) but I sorta expected it. Came out to 355$ CAD total so not too bad.
> 
> I was a little miffed that I had to take the screen apart to remove the stand, but it wasn't too painful and only took me like 10 minutes.
> 
> With the stock cable i'm overclocking at 110Hz. At 120 I get weird blue interlacing lines. Maybe with a different cable that would dissapear but im not complaining!
> 
> The colors don't seem too impressive out of the box (compared to my Benq TN panels) but im gonna try out some color profiles and report back.


Congrats!

PS: No import duties. Just sales taxes + "processing fee".


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twistacles*
> 
> Just got my X-Star DP2710 a few days ago from dream-seller.
> 
> I was hit with 55$ of import duties (Montreal) but I sorta expected it. Came out to 355$ CAD total so not too bad.
> 
> I was a little miffed that I had to take the screen apart to remove the stand, but it wasn't too painful and only took me like 10 minutes.
> 
> With the stock cable i'm overclocking at 110Hz. At 120 I get weird blue interlacing lines. Maybe with a different cable that would dissapear but im not complaining!
> 
> The colors don't seem too impressive out of the box (compared to my Benq TN panels) but im gonna try out some color profiles and report back.


ditto on the 110hz, 120hz has blue lines.

I tried a different wire and it didn't help, the wire I bought also had an amazon review of a guy saying he had been through a bunch of wires trying to get that last 10 hertz and this one worked for him, well didn't work for me

I really think changing the wire is not likely to help as the limitation on these lies in the PCB. I mean if you ever saw the solder job they did on these pcb's LOL!

Also the wire they come with is a perfectly acceptable quality wire so I wish I had saved the $8 or whatever I spent replacing it.


----------



## Twistacles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> ditto on the 110hz, 120hz has blue lines.
> 
> I tried a different wire and it didn't help, the wire I bought also had an amazon review of a guy saying he had been through a bunch of wires trying to get that last 10 hertz and this one worked for him, well didn't work for me
> 
> I really think changing the wire is not likely to help as the limitation on these lies in the PCB. I mean if you ever saw the solder job they did on these pcb's LOL!
> 
> Also the wire they come with is a perfectly acceptable quality wire so I wish I had saved the $8 or whatever I spent replacing it.


Oh, well that saves me the trouble of looking for a wire. Thanks!

Don't think I care that much about the last 10hz anyway. I woulda been happy with 90~hz so I have no complaints


----------



## Ovrclck

So overclockmonitor. com replied to my question about tempered. Sounds like plain glossy is out and tempered glass is now the norm.

" Regarding plain glossy version of QNIX QX2710 LED, you might mean the past version. Currently released glossy version is somewhat similar to tempered glass version. As far as we know, when they released QNIX QX2710 very first time, 'glossy version' meant plain glossy and tempered glass. However, by sellers, plain glossy and tempered glass version were separated(When we even did not exist.). We found out this information since so many customers had asked about it. (We learned it as well.







)

And now, plain glossy are not likely released. We also have some glossy, but it is not sell-able quality."

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## LunaP

Sigh and yeah greensum responded as well with the no film comment which is obvious for gloss he said his rep would go down if they sold normal gloss. So I left negative feedback for both im just gonna pay 380 $ for the gloss panels then unless someone can confirm like a few have been asking but ignored if you can remove the glass on the gloss?


----------



## shhhpark

can anyone help? Whenever i overclock my monitor to 96hz my firefox and ie won't play youtube videos. I hear sound but the screen is black. in chrome it works though. before i patch and use cru youtube works fine in firefox. thanks!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shhhpark*
> 
> can anyone help? Whenever i overclock my monitor to 96hz my firefox and ie won't play youtube videos. I hear sound but the screen is black. in chrome it works though. before i patch and use cru youtube works fine in firefox. thanks!


Hmm I don't own one of these yet, maybe yours can't oveclock that high?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Sigh and yeah greensum responded as well with the no film comment which is obvious for gloss he said his rep would go down if they sold normal gloss. So I left negative feedback for both im just gonna pay 380 $ for the gloss panels then unless someone can confirm like a few have been asking but ignored if you can remove the glass on the gloss?


Hopefully someone will answer our questions on removing the glass..If not, maybe we can be the pioneers! lol

If no one else is going to be selling plain gloss. I give up. Anything is better than my current 27" hanns G.


----------



## Ovrclck

double post


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shhhpark*
> 
> can anyone help? Whenever i overclock my monitor to 96hz my firefox and ie won't play youtube videos. I hear sound but the screen is black. in chrome it works though. before i patch and use cru youtube works fine in firefox. thanks!


You need to right click on the video and disable hardware acceleration, I had the same issue. Its a AMD thing I think.


----------



## shhhpark

i doubt it's the overclock i was able to get it to run at 120hz but just wanted to keep it at a safe 96. I game on it for hours at 96hz fine no problem. its only watching videos in firefox/ie. there no picture but there is sound. in chrome videos work fine but ijust normally use firefox


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shhhpark*
> 
> i doubt it's the overclock i was able to get it to run at 120hz but just wanted to keep it at a safe 96. I game on it for hours at 96hz fine no problem. its only watching videos in firefox/ie. there no picture but there is sound. in chrome videos work fine but ijust normally use firefox


Did you miss my post? You just need to right click the video and disable hardware acceleration.


----------



## mboner1

Woops.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> ditto on the 110hz, 120hz has blue lines.
> 
> I tried a different wire and it didn't help, the wire I bought also had an amazon review of a guy saying he had been through a bunch of wires trying to get that last 10 hertz and this one worked for him, well didn't work for me
> 
> I really think changing the wire is not likely to help as the limitation on these lies in the PCB. I mean if you ever saw the solder job they did on these pcb's LOL!
> 
> Also the wire they come with is a perfectly acceptable quality wire so I wish I had saved the $8 or whatever I spent replacing it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twistacles*
> 
> Oh, well that saves me the trouble of looking for a wire. Thanks!
> 
> Don't think I care that much about the last 10hz anyway. I woulda been happy with 90~hz so I have no complaints


That doesn't mean that a cable doesn't help the OC. You tried a single cable that didn't get you higher OCs and concluded cables don't help?

Shorter = better. 3ft cables are most likely to get you higher overclocks, and they're cheaper.


----------



## LunaP

Well since it appears noones attempted to remove the glass ever on a tempered glass /glossy , I'll move on to removing the matte film from my matte monitor and see how that goes then report back.
Granted the process takes about 6-8 hours so I'll report back tonight.

Any other updates on the tempered glass please do update. What we want to know is:

1) Is the frame slightly bigger to incorporate the glass or is is the same size and the glass is just fit in the bezel space in front of the gloss/matte?
2) After removing is there a gap between the bezel and the gloss screen?

If anyone would be so kind as to provide this, then we can move on to ordering tempered gloss and just remove the panel using easy steps.

If noone has done this, then I guess I"ll just end up having to purchase one and try it myself then post a tutorial for everyone.

Appreciate any input on this


----------



## lightsout

Well thanks for all the info guys. Looks like I'm just going to go with the tempered glass model. Could consider a crossover but without the possibility to overclock don't really want to get one.


----------



## Harry604

tracking says it arrived at the sort facility in my city..

its only 1155 am so hopefully i will get it today

ill let u know if its glossy with tempered glass


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> tracking says it arrived at the sort facility in my city..
> 
> its only 1155 am so hopefully i will get it today
> 
> ill let u know if its glossy with tempered glass


Thanks

I'm currently removing the bezel on mine and going to head to homedepot for some wet shop towels, and some distilled water, and probably a mini roller to apply even pressure. I'll take a video when I start to peel the film off.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> I'm currently removing the bezel on mine and going to head to homedepot for some wet shop towels, and some distilled water, and probably a mini roller to apply even pressure. I'll take a video when I start to peel the film off.


Awesome man! Good luck!


----------



## LunaP




----------



## Harry604

woo says its with delivery courier

what am i gonna do with all these monitors now

i have a

samsung s27a950D
crossover 27Q
asus VH247


----------



## LunaP

And now I know I have a pls


----------



## Fromm

*Delivered Nov-28-13
Fromm
X-STAR DP2710
Matte
dream-seller
Stable 110Hz
$279.00
Issues: None*


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That doesn't mean that a cable doesn't help the OC. You tried a single cable that didn't get you higher OCs and concluded cables don't help?
> 
> Shorter = better. 3ft cables are most likely to get you higher overclocks, and they're cheaper.


I concluded it based on my own (admittedly limited) experience and other posts from this thread. I see how you could take offense from what I first said though.

Now that I think of it I have actually used two of the cables that come with these monitors and one other cable, no 3 ft ones though.

I understand the logic between a 3ft cable, but I feel like using one would be highly impracticable for most people with such a short length.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I concluded it based on my own (admittedly limited) experience and other posts from this thread. I see how you could take offense from what I first said though.
> 
> Now that I think of it I have actually used two of the cables that come with these monitors and one other cable, no 3 ft ones though.
> 
> I understand the logic between a 3ft cable, but I feel like using one would be highly impracticable for most people with such a short length.


I didn't take offence from what you said, I was just disagreeing with your conclusion since members who have extensively tested many cables found quite a difference between one cable and another. It's mostly a lottery with wires as you have experienced, though.

For those whom it would work for, there's no reason not to go for a 3ft cable to generally enable higher OCs.


----------



## Harry604

cru is not working for me

i went and made a custom resolution in NVCP

does 120hz
no BLB
no dead pixels

is it better to use CRU


----------



## LunaP

Had a stripped screw so took a bit and here we are. Need to find an alternative to machine towels so ill sub paper ones later gotta go buy distilled water.


----------



## Harry604

got my monitor its glossy with tempered glass

at 120hz it seems to be darker than my crossover27q hard to see in bf4 in dark areas


----------



## lightsout

Great news that it's glossy under there. When you say it's darker at 120hz. Does that mean when you Oc it's changing the color of the monitor? Or is it always a little dark?

How do you like the screen with the glass on it? Is the glare really bad? And which seller was yours from?

Sorry this was meant for Harry604


----------



## Harry604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Great news that it's glossy under there. When you say it's darker at 120hz. Does that mean when you Oc it's changing the color of the monitor? Or is it always a little dark?
> 
> How do you like the screen with the glass on it? Is the glare really bad? And which seller was yours from?
> 
> Sorry this was meant for Harry604


the monitor seems darker than my 27Q

i think it looks good with the glass and glossy.... the glare is not bad same as my 27Q and my samsung s27a950D


----------



## kevinsbane

The monitors get darker and less uniform as your increase your overclock.


----------



## lightsout

Thanks for the help bro. I'm just going to give him the go ahead on my glass model.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Great news that it's glossy under there. When you say it's darker at 120hz. Does that mean when you Oc it's changing the color of the monitor? Or is it always a little dark?
> 
> How do you like the screen with the glass on it? Is the glare really bad? And which seller was yours from?
> 
> Sorry this was meant for Harry604
> 
> 
> 
> the monitor seems darker than my 27Q
> 
> i think it looks good with the glass and glossy.... the glare is not bad same as my 27Q and my samsung s27a950D
Click to expand...


----------



## LunaP

NoW we play the waiting game...

For those of you with the glass are you removing it or no?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> NoW we play the waiting game...
> 
> For those of you with the glass are you removing it or no?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shhhpark*
> 
> i doubt it's the overclock i was able to get it to run at 120hz but just wanted to keep it at a safe 96. I game on it for hours at 96hz fine no problem. its only watching videos in firefox/ie. there no picture but there is sound. in chrome videos work fine but ijust normally use firefox


Were you able to fix it? The patcher tends to break flash content (Youtube, Instagram, etc.), so you need to turn off Hardware Acceleration as mboner1 mentioned. You should also turn it off via the Options menu (Options > Advanced Tab > General Tab).

I only use PaleMoon (Firefox variant) and I also experience broken flash video on IE, but everything works on Chrome.


----------



## lightsout

Wow that's scary is that thing all wet? I will leave the glass on unless I really don't like it. How hard was it to get the bezel off?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> NoW we play the waiting game...
> 
> For those of you with the glass are you removing it or no?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Wow that's scary is that thing all wet? I will leave the glass on unless I really don't like it. How hard was it to get the bezel off?


Mine doesn't have the glass I ordered gloss and got plain matte. Yeah the clothes are more than damp, it's distilled water though using a spray bottle. I'm reapplying every 2-3 hours. The film is slowly starting to allow me at it but much to early to start peeling. Gonna go to the movies and when I get back check it again, around 10pm tonight I'll attempt to remove teh film, I'll video it and take pics so you guys can see the difference.

As for the bezel from start to cloths took me about 10-15 minutes tops mainly due to being careful. It's pretty easy to get everything off though.


----------



## lightsout

Looks interesting. I guess you just need to let it sit for a while when it's done to be sure it's totally dry.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Wow that's scary is that thing all wet? I will leave the glass on unless I really don't like it. How hard was it to get the bezel off?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine doesn't have the glass I ordered gloss and got plain matte. Yeah the clothes are more than damp, it's distilled water though using a spray bottle. I'm reapplying every 2-3 hours. The film is slowly starting to allow me at it but much to early to start peeling. Gonna go to the movies and when I get back check it again, around 10pm tonight I'll attempt to remove teh film, I'll video it and take pics so you guys can see the difference.
> 
> As for the bezel from start to cloths took me about 10-15 minutes tops mainly due to being careful. It's pretty easy to get everything off though.
Click to expand...


----------



## Zipper Fairy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Got my second Qnix today, unplugged my old one, put in the new one, was initially very pleased as it has absolutely no backlight bleed what so ever, overclocked to 130Hz no issues. Opened up the Google homepage and noticed a problem right off the bat.
> 
> (Skip about 15 seconds in, the far shot bleaches the screens)
> 
> 
> 
> As is obvious, it has a slight yellow tint to it, and after testing it some more, it has very, very slight black crush. Not sure if this is the norm and my 'white' one is just a lucky one? I know "warm" is often an option on monitors but its something I hate. Anyone able to compare? My old one is totally pure white, the new one is like a very slight sepia filter.


I had the same issue with mine. I calibrated it using a Spyder4Pro and created some pretty "cool" .icc profiles. They're linked in my sig if you wanna try them out.

You can also lower the Red/Green values in the ATI/Nividia control panel to try and match it to your other monitor


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Looks interesting. I guess you just need to let it sit for a while when it's done to be sure it's totally dry.


I need to keep it wet the whole time though, just tested it now and teh AG coating came off a bit, gonna leave it for another few hours then it should come off easily. I'll be sure to take a vid of it and take a pic of the coating so you guys can see how thin/thick it is. I'm excited to see it in its ultimate performance and teh color diff as well. If it goes well I'll just order a few more mattes since they're easier to grab and be done w/ it


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipper Fairy*
> 
> I had the same issue with mine. I calibrated it using a Spyder4Pro and created some pretty "cool" .icc profiles. They're linked in my sig if you wanna try them out.
> 
> You can also lower the Red/Green values in the ATI/Nividia control panel to try and match it to your other monitor


Thanks, I'll have to try them.


----------



## lightsout

Missed this on my phone thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The monitors get darker and less uniform as your increase your overclock.


----------



## philthy84

Green-sum just refunded me for my order. Luckily was able to get it cancelled before it had shipped out. I think I'm done trying my luck with Ebay sellers and thinking about just spending a little more cash for the Tempest X270OC from Overlord since they seem to have glossy panels. How do these monitors compare with the Qnix?


----------



## Harry604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philthy84*
> 
> Green-sum just refunded me for my order. Luckily was able to get it cancelled before it had shipped out. I think I'm done trying my luck with Ebay sellers and thinking about just spending a little more cash for the Tempest X270OC from Overlord since they seem to have glossy panels. How do these monitors compare with the Qnix?


I just got my monitor from greensum

and its perfect... the tempered glass with glossy looks awesome,

overclocked to 120hz
no dead pixels
no blb


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> I just got my monitor from greensum
> 
> and its perfect... the tempered glass with glossy looks awesome,
> 
> overclocked to 120hz
> no dead pixels
> no blb


Awesome dude. Excited to get mine!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Awesome dude. Excited to get mine!


Guess ill try it too


----------



## lightsout

SWEET!! Can't wait!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *philthy84*
> 
> Green-sum just refunded me for my order. Luckily was able to get it cancelled before it had shipped out. I think I'm done trying my luck with Ebay sellers and thinking about just spending a little more cash for the Tempest X270OC from Overlord since they seem to have glossy panels. How do these monitors compare with the Qnix?
> 
> 
> 
> I just got my monitor from greensum
> 
> and its perfect... the tempered glass with glossy looks awesome,
> 
> overclocked to 120hz
> no dead pixels
> no blb
Click to expand...


----------



## shhhpark

yup that fixed it! i thought i tried this before and it didn twork but restarted the browser and bam there we go. thanks!!

also i overclocked to 96hz as stated and passed the test for frame skipping i think. i was running a bunchmark in grid 2 before and noticed my max and min fps at 60hz which is causing me to believe something is wrong. can anyone help?


----------



## shhhpark

btw i got mine from bigclothcraft. ordered it on sunday night and it was AT MY DOOR in new jersey on wednesday!! no dead pixels and no backlight bleed. i got really lucky!!


----------



## lightsout

Feeling much better after the recent posts. TOld worldsbest to go ahead and ship. Hoping to get it by the end of the week to see how she looks.


----------



## LunaP

K about time to remove the film


----------



## lightsout

Lets see this!!


----------



## Ovrclck

:grabs popcorn:

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## LunaP

And shes coming off super easy



Aww yeah that shimmy



Ladies and gents this is your matte film


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 
> 
> And shes coming off super easy
> 
> 
> 
> Aww yeah that shimmy
> 
> 
> 
> Ladies and gents this is your matte film


So you didn't try to get another glossy one? You just use the matte one that they sent u and remove the anti glare coating?


----------



## lightsout

Looks like it peeled right off. So is the panel wet now. On the sides or anything? How long do you plan on letting it dry before you put it back together and fire it up?


----------



## coli

Is it possible to use the LVDS output of thin mini-itx boards and connect directly to these monitors?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So you didn't try to get another glossy one? You just use the matte one that they sent u and remove the anti glare coating?


Well im tempted to get the tempered glass now after reading but yeah vs returning I figured why not. Ill put it back together tomorrow sleeping early tonight.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Looks like it peeled right off. So is the panel wet now. On the sides or anything? How long do you plan on letting it dry before you put it back together and fire it up?


Only the film as damp on top rest is dry the cloths absorb the liquid just helps moisten I could easily put back together now if I wanted to. I can make a tutorial if you want


----------



## lightsout

Yeah I would think removing the glass would be easier. Hopefully holds true for all that it's gloss underneath.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Looks like it peeled right off. So is the panel wet now. On the sides or anything? How long do you plan on letting it dry before you put it back together and fire it up?
> 
> 
> 
> Only the film as damp on top rest is dry the cloths absorb the liquid just helps moisten I could easily put back together now if I wanted to. I can make a tutorial if you want
Click to expand...

Oh I see. Thought it was wetter than that. Thanks for the tutorial offer I ordered the glass model. So hopefully won't have it need. I will ask though was it easy to remove the casing? I did it once with a shimian and it had a bunch of clips that were a bit of a pain.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Yeah I would think removing the glass would be easier. Hopefully holds true for all that it's gloss underneath.


Yeah for the glass itd probably be a 30 minute job. Ill order some tomorrow and do that when they arrive these thi gs are surprisingly easy to take apart.


----------



## lightsout

Thanks for the help. +rep

Anyone running sli and overclocking their monitor is it true I need two sli bridges? I wasn't aware of this just read the op. Guess I should try and pick one up.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Thanks for the help. +rep
> 
> Anyone running sli and overclocking their monitor is it true I need two sli bridges? I wasn't aware of this just read the op. Guess I should try and pick one up.


Im running Sli and no issue with overclocking. Running a single bridge. Do you mean for multiple monitors?


----------



## lightsout

In the guide in the op for overclocking the monitor it says you will need two bridges. Also says a driver patch if needed with sli
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Thanks for the help. +rep
> 
> Anyone running sli and overclocking their monitor is it true I need two sli bridges? I wasn't aware of this just read the op. Guess I should try and pick one up.
> 
> 
> 
> Im running Sli and no issue with overclocking. Running a single bridge. Do you mean for multiple monitors?
Click to expand...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> In the guide in the op for overclocking the monitor it says you will need two bridges. Also says a driver patch if needed with sli


Quote:


> Single and SLI Nvidia card setups can patch their Nvidia driver to overclock (*Note: It is not necessary to do any patch. I would try without patching first*). The patch is more important for SLI card owners


This? Not sure when it was originally posted, may have changed due to drive updates and all, though I'd be interested on this as well.


----------



## rushstrike

Sorry I haven't been active on this thread since my post over half a year ago.

I want to clarify more about the tape mod technique. The idea behind the tape is to actually apply some pressure when you put it all together so that the LCD panel become more flush with the metallic reflector. I think that the cheap reflector not being perfectly leveled causes a lot of lighting problems. So depending on where you think you have the problem you might try to be creative and figure out ways to make your screen flush. My monitor luckily had a problem in the bottom right so i was able to apply some tape in the bottom right as a means to push the LCD tightly against the reflector. Good luck everyone with your monitor!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Im running Sli and no issue with overclocking. Running a single bridge. Do you mean for multiple monitors?


Do you think the 120hz is really worth it over a 30" 2560-1600 one? I just bought the Dell U3014 and still have over a week to return.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you think the 120hz is really worth it over a 30" 2560-1600 one? I just bought the Dell U3014 and still have over a week to return.


Honestly its user pref, if you need the real estate then sure, I was debating between 1080 @ 120hz or 1440p/1600p initially and decided on higher screen estate. Though @ the cost of the 3014 ( though u got a d/c iirc ) It's a steal for the Korean panels IMO, granted the 120hz isn't like the Asus w/ Light boost 2.0 its still ncie and cleaner for games, and even if not it's still a cheap high quality display @ 1440p which you can't find anywhere else, and 1600p is only a 160px upgrade height wise, nothing changes width wise.

I upgraded from a 23" so the 27" is def noticeable, so the size would be diff as well between the 2 BUT if you like matte and haven't experienced 120hz or even 96hz and dont' really do FPS or game intensively then the Dell's fine, its just a GREAT price-performance deal. If you have more than a week to return why not order a panel to test that way if nothing else you can return the panel of whichever you don't prefer


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Honestly its user pref, if you need the real estate then sure, I was debating between 1080 @ 120hz or 1440p/1600p initially and decided on higher screen estate. Though @ the cost of the 3014 ( though u got a d/c iirc ) It's a steal for the Korean panels IMO, granted the 120hz isn't like the Asus w/ Light boost 2.0 its still ncie and cleaner for games, and even if not it's still a cheap high quality display @ 1440p which you can't find anywhere else, and 1600p is only a 160px upgrade height wise, nothing changes width wise.
> 
> I upgraded from a 23" so the 27" is def noticeable, so the size would be diff as well between the 2 BUT if you like matte and haven't experienced 120hz or even 96hz and dont' really do FPS or game intensively then the Dell's fine, its just a GREAT price-performance deal. If you have more than a week to return why not order a panel to test that way if nothing else you can return the panel of whichever you don't prefer


Yea the problem is im deciding between factory pre-calibrated color / 30" with 120hz. Like is 120hz really that good? I haven't experienced it sadly. I mean if it's really a god sent then I'll def go with a Korean 1440 27" that can overclock to 120hz over this Dell U3014.


----------



## Harry604

In the past, the manufacturer released the monitor in three different versions, glare, anti-glare, and tempered glass. Panel without coating was glossy, so it was called glossy panel. However, this panel had lots of problems and very weak from shock and scratches. So the manufacturer no longer produce monitors without any coating. And panel with anti-glare coating and tempered glass is actually glare. So the manufacturer now produces two versions, glossy and matte. You might feel a little confused, but literally, tempered glass version is one of glare panels as it is glare. As long as we know, there's no glossy + tempered glass panel. If there's one like that, it would be too glare to use.
FYI, AH-IPS panel, which is used for YAMAKASI, CROSSOVER, and ACHIEVA, is also anti-glare coated panel with tempered glass. And they call it glare panel. The difference is just the panel is thinner and has better quality than S-IPS panel, which is previous version.

Hope the above is helpful to understand. BTW, so you do not like the 'current glossy' version? Please let us know.

Thank you.

Best regards,
Green-Sum


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> In the past, the manufacturer released the monitor in three different versions, glare, anti-glare, and tempered glass. Panel without coating was glossy, so it was called glossy panel. However, this panel had lots of problems and very weak from shock and scratches. So the manufacturer no longer produce monitors without any coating. And panel with anti-glare coating and tempered glass is actually glare. So the manufacturer now produces two versions, glossy and matte. You might feel a little confused, but literally, tempered glass version is one of glare panels as it is glare. As long as we know, there's no glossy + tempered glass panel. If there's one like that, it would be too glare to use.
> FYI, AH-IPS panel, which is used for YAMAKASI, CROSSOVER, and ACHIEVA, is also anti-glare coated panel with tempered glass. And they call it glare panel. The difference is just the panel is thinner and has better quality than S-IPS panel, which is previous version.
> 
> Hope the above is helpful to understand. BTW, so you do not like the 'current glossy' version? Please let us know.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Green-Sum


Ok so it is a matte screen underneath. Weird. Oh well if I don't like it I will remove the AG. Going forward with it. Heres what I got from worlds best.

Glare panel is two versions. One without any coating, and another one with anti-glare coating and a tempered glass on it. The tempered glass makes the coated panel glossy, so the manufacturer releases tempered glass version as glossy since it is literally 'glossy'. Do you not like it? If so, please let us know. We are not sure if we can find a panel without any coating, but we will try.

Thank you.

Best regards,
Worldbest365


----------



## Harry604

guess im ripping the monitor apart


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Try monitor calibration wizard. Download it, then name it and save it in monitor calibration wizard, then load the profile you just saved in the drop down box, click force persistent profile and click load.
> 
> http://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/Video-Tweak/Monitor-Calibration-Wizard.shtml


seems to do the trick nicely, thanks


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

so im alittle confused... they dont make glossy and more? and only with the tempered galss somtimes? can some one take a side pic of the tempered glass one? so ican see what it looks like?


----------



## LunaP

Alright so I hooked it back up and there is not to much of a diff on the gloss, is there a way to disable dynamic contrast cuz I'm hating how dark things are on here.

Anywhoo go to off of what greesum said ( from Harry604 which I also received ) I'm clarifying he means PLS vs IPS as this is what they're supposed to be.

As for the matte removal, I've noticed one thing I can now see faintly what appears to be diagnaol lines shooting across the screen but not moving almost like an aliased effect mainly noticable on white but still feint, I believe this is due to pressue though as if I push in it fades out so I may have to reopen as I noticed the rubber bumpers on the back weren't all the same height so once that's done this should be good.

Though as far as Matte vs Gloss goes thus far on these there appears to be a small difference however colors appear a bit more lively and backlight is a smidgeon. better now for illuminating properly.

Seems the matte film is a tad thinner than normal brands.


----------



## viper2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright so I hooked it back up and there is not to much of a diff on the gloss, is there a way to disable dynamic contrast cuz I'm hating how dark things are on here.
> 
> Anywhoo go to off of what greesum said ( from Harry604 which I also received ) I'm clarifying he means PLS vs IPS as this is what they're supposed to be.
> 
> As for the matte removal, I've noticed one thing I can now see faintly what appears to be diagnaol lines shooting across the screen but not moving almost like an aliased effect mainly noticable on white but still feint, I believe this is due to pressue though as if I push in it fades out so I may have to reopen as I noticed the rubber bumpers on the back weren't all the same height so once that's done this should be good.
> 
> Though as far as Matte vs Gloss goes thus far on these there appears to be a small difference however colors appear a bit more lively and backlight is a smidgeon. better now for illuminating properly.
> 
> Seems the matte film is a tad thinner than normal brands.


You put it back together with the same bezels?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper2005*
> 
> You put it back together with the same bezels?


Yup, Just something I noticed while inside but I didn't have the appropriate tape for it.


----------



## stilllogicz

For Nvidia, do we no longer need the patcher? Just setting the custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> In the past, the manufacturer released the monitor in three different versions, glare, anti-glare, and tempered glass. Panel without coating was glossy, so it was called glossy panel. However, this panel had lots of problems and very weak from shock and scratches. So the manufacturer no longer produce monitors without any coating. And panel with anti-glare coating and tempered glass is actually glare. So the manufacturer now produces two versions, glossy and matte. You might feel a little confused, but literally, tempered glass version is one of glare panels as it is glare. As long as we know, there's no glossy + tempered glass panel. If there's one like that, it would be too glare to use.
> FYI, AH-IPS panel, which is used for YAMAKASI, CROSSOVER, and ACHIEVA, is also anti-glare coated panel with tempered glass. And they call it glare panel. The difference is just the panel is thinner and has better quality than S-IPS panel, which is previous version.
> 
> Hope the above is helpful to understand. BTW, so you do not like the 'current glossy' version? Please let us know.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Green-Sum


I can show a email from accessorieswhole guaranteeing it's glossy + tempered glass, and someone else had a email saying it's matte + tempered glass. Same deal with people who have actually removed the tempered glass, 1 had matte underneath, another had glossy. You could get either by the sounds of it. They just say they only have whatever they plan on sending you i reckon.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> guess im ripping the monitor apart


But I thought you said it looked great and you thought it was glossy underneath right? Why the change of heart. After hearing from Lunap that it is a very small difference I am not going to bother unless it looks really bad.


----------



## Craigaaa

Anyone else having trouble running a custom resolution (110Hz or 120Hz) with the new Nvidia 331.82 driver? The previous 331.65 driver works perfect. If you add a custom resolution, 2560x1440 110Hz or 120Hz, then test, it will take about 30 seconds for the test to complete. Once you click yes, accept and run, the monitor video goes out, video board still receiving video signal but just backlight. Windows also locks up and you are forced to shutdown improperly. I have ran with windows aero disabled, enabled and disabled SLI, reinstalled twice and nothing seems to work. Trying version 331.93 beta driver now. If both fail then I will have to revert to 331.65.

QNIX 2710 evo II
GTX660Ti SLI


----------



## Crazedmonk86

X-star on feded truck for delivery. Ordered sunday from Dream-seller on ebay.. man thats some fast shipping it hit Alaska last night and made it all the way to california, salt late city and now here in boise in ONE night. Newegg from cali takes 3 stinkin days.


----------



## Harry604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> But I thought you said it looked great and you thought it was glossy underneath right? Why the change of heart. After hearing from Lunap that it is a very small difference I am not going to bother unless it looks really bad.


its looks good its actually the same as my actual glossy crossover 27q

im just picky.... eats away at me knowing it might be matte under the glass


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Anyone else having trouble running a custom resolution (110Hz or 120Hz) with the new Nvidia 331.82 driver? The previous 331.65 driver works perfect. If you add a custom resolution, 2560x1440 110Hz or 120Hz, then test, it will take about 30 seconds for the test to complete. Once you click yes, accept and run, the monitor video goes out, video board still receiving video signal but just backlight. Windows also locks up and you are forced to shutdown improperly. I have ran with windows aero disabled, enabled and disabled SLI, reinstalled twice and nothing seems to work. Trying version 331.93 beta driver now. If both fail then I will have to revert to 331.65.
> 
> QNIX 2710 evo II
> GTX660Ti SLI


Can I ask you a question since your also running sli. Do you need to run with two sli bridges to hit 120hz. And do you patch the driver as the OP says you need to with sli.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> But I thought you said it looked great and you thought it was glossy underneath right? Why the change of heart. After hearing from Lunap that it is a very small difference I am not going to bother unless it looks really bad.
> 
> 
> 
> its looks good its actually the same as my actual glossy crossover 27q
> 
> im just picky.... eats away at me knowing it might be matte under the glass
Click to expand...

Same as the crossover glossy! Thats excellent. I am very happy to hear that thanks for the info. Now I'm getting impatient lol.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> For Nvidia, do we no longer need the patcher? Just setting the custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel?


I just attempted it, and no change, though for some reason regardless I'm getting 60hz on the ufo test.

Updated drivers - removed nvidia experience
patched SLI
rebooted
ran CRU set 120 hz set to top
rebooted
came back nothing
set windows/nvidia to 120hz
nothing
Color goes dark as normal though and I've set it to where it looks like I'm on 60hz as far as brightness/color wise.

Can't think of anything else for the time being , unless anyone else has had this issue?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Can I ask you a question since your also running sli. Do you need to run with two sli bridges to hit 120hz. And do you patch the driver as the OP says you need to with sli.
> Same as the crossover glossy! Thats excellent. I am very happy to hear that thanks for the info. Now I'm getting impatient lol.


I have narrowed it down to be an SLI issue. I will try and find a Tri sli bridge. Can you send me the link to the patch?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stilllogicz*
> 
> For Nvidia, do we no longer need the patcher? Just setting the custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel?
> 
> 
> 
> I just attempted it, and no change, though for some reason regardless I'm getting 60hz on the ufo test.
> 
> Updated drivers - removed nvidia experience
> patched SLI
> rebooted
> ran CRU set 120 hz set to top
> rebooted
> came back nothing
> set windows/nvidia to 120hz
> nothing
> Color goes dark as normal though and I've set it to where it looks like I'm on 60hz as far as brightness/color wise.
> 
> Can't think of anything else for the time being , unless anyone else has had this issue?
Click to expand...

So it worked or it didn't work for you?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Can I ask you a question since your also running sli. Do you need to run with two sli bridges to hit 120hz. And do you patch the driver as the OP says you need to with sli.
> Same as the crossover glossy! Thats excellent. I am very happy to hear that thanks for the info. Now I'm getting impatient lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I have narrowed it down to be an SLI issue. I will try and find a Tri sli bridge. Can you send me the link to the patch?
Click to expand...

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

Please report back what happens I will be attempting an OC with sli soon. The OP also says you need a bridge on both sli fingers, guess I need to buy a second one.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So it worked or it didn't work for you?
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> Please report back what happens I will be attempting an OC with sli soon. The OP also says you need a bridge on both sli fingers, guess I need to buy a second one.


The patch says 400/500 gpus. Also I cannot get the monitor to work without locking up every 2 seconds with SLI enabled. I tried 3 driver versions and cannot get it to work with SLI.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So it worked or it didn't work for you?
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> Please report back what happens I will be attempting an OC with sli soon. The OP also says you need a bridge on both sli fingers, guess I need to buy a second one.
> 
> 
> 
> The patch says 400/500 gpus. Also I cannot get the monitor to work without locking up every 2 seconds with SLI enabled. I tried 3 driver versions and cannot get it to work with SLI.
Click to expand...

I think you misread the info for the patch.
Quote:


> NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher modifies the NVIDIA video driver to remove the 330 MHz pixel clock limit for dual-link DVI and the 400 MHz limit for SLI *and* 400/500-series GPUs.


So now it won't work even at 60hz? Was it working before with SLI?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So it worked or it didn't work for you?
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> Please report back what happens I will be attempting an OC with sli soon. The OP also says you need a bridge on both sli fingers, guess I need to buy a second one.


Haven't installed the patch yet but installed two single SLI bridges on both SLI buses. It is working in SLI as we speak @ 60Hz. I am going to attempt 120Hz in SLI.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I think you misread the info for the patch.
> So now it won't work even at 60hz? Was it working before with SLI?


Gotcha must have read it wrong. It will not work with a single SLI bridge, SLI enabled @ 60Hz. It freezes constantly every 2 seconds and windows will shut it off. In device manager there is an exclamation point on one of my 660Ti's forgot to write the error message down.


----------



## lightsout

Sounds like I need a second sli bridge


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Sounds like I need a second sli bridge


Yes, for it to work in SLI you will need a bridge on each sli bus. One of mine is a standard pcb and the other a flex pcb. It works but I may end up just buying a standard pcb bridge to match. The patch worked. When I set the custom resolution, the pixel clock is 241Mhz, but I think that is X2 (combined) since both are connected to each other. With a single card it makes sense why it works. The pixel clock is only 241Mhz which is not over the limit.


----------



## lightsout

NIce! So this is all on the new driver? Appreciate the feedback. +rep.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So it worked or it didn't work for you?
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> Please report back what happens I will be attempting an OC with sli soon. The OP also says you need a bridge on both sli fingers, guess I need to buy a second one.


No change, but got sidetracked by steam black friday sales sorry








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> The patch says 400/500 gpus. Also I cannot get the monitor to work without locking up every 2 seconds with SLI enabled. I tried 3 driver versions and cannot get it to work with SLI.


Just a thought, I noticed I logged into safe mode only after applying the patch, but found out my antivirus was blocking the patch fully.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Haven't installed the patch yet but installed two single SLI bridges on both SLI buses. It is working in SLI as we speak @ 60Hz. I am going to attempt 120Hz in SLI.


n/m didn't catch this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Yes, for it to work in SLI you will need a bridge on each sli bus. One of mine is a standard pcb and the other a flex pcb. It works but I may end up just buying a standard pcb bridge to match. The patch worked. When I set the custom resolution, the pixel clock is 241Mhz, but I think that is X2 (combined) since both are connected to each other. With a single card it makes sense why it works. The pixel clock is only 241Mhz which is not over the limit.


Gonna try mine now I have 2 single cables.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> NIce! So this is all on the new driver? Appreciate the feedback. +rep.


Mines the latest non beta one. Brb restarting to test.

Alright hooked up another SLI so I'm in dual now. No changes still.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> NIce! So this is all on the new driver? Appreciate the feedback. +rep.


Thanks, it is the 331.82 latest non beta!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> No change, but got sidetracked by steam black friday sales sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a thought, I noticed I logged into safe mode only after applying the patch, but found out my antivirus was blocking the patch fully.
> n/m didn't catch this.
> Gonna try mine now I have 2 single cables.
> Mines the latest non beta one. Brb restarting to test.


It should work. Let us know.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Thanks, it is the 331.82 latest non beta!
> It should work. Let us know.


Updated the post it's not, I'm removing and readding the resolutions.

Now it shows 96hz but ufo test shows 30hz not even 60 Lol

Back to 60 now but yeah can't go above, though monitor is showing its 96


----------



## TelFiRE

Ok, finally got one ordered. Qnix tempered glass. Sure hope there's not major blb on mine!


----------



## Harry604

Im satisfied with it

its just as glossy as a crossover,colors are better than the crossover, the crossover has a little yellow tint to it this is much better...

selling my s27a950d for 400$ at 5pm

then im selling my 27Q for 250$

might have to sell my 2x 680 lightning use the money from what i sold to get 2x 780ti to power this thing fully


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Im satisfied with it
> 
> its just as glossy as a crossover,colors are better than the crossover, the crossover has a little yellow tint to it this is much better...
> 
> selling my s27a950d for 400$ at 5pm
> 
> then im selling my 27Q for 250$
> 
> might have to sell my 2x 680 lightning use the money from what i sold to get 2x 780ti to power this thing fully


Is yours glass + matte or glass + gloss? and from who, I'm worried about getting an LG IPS vs a Samsung PLS though.


----------



## Harry604

its glass+ not sure

i was told it was glossy and requested it before buying...

it looks glossy..... im sure if it was matte it would be easy to tell compared to a glossy monitor even with the glass

got it from greensum


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Updated the post it's not, I'm removing and readding the resolutions.
> 
> Now it shows 96hz but ufo test shows 30hz not even 60 Lol
> 
> Back to 60 now but yeah can't go above, though monitor is showing its 96


I did a clean install of the driver 331.82, patched it, enabled SLI, added custom resolution and then it worked for me.


----------



## 6steven9

Hey all i just received my Qnix from bigclothcraft and it's a beautiful monitor and I was amazed at how fast it was delivered I ordered a second little monitor for an axillary display in my country a day before i ordered this monitor and they somehow arrived at my door step at the exact same day







. No dead pixels and very minimal BLB very happy, had to pay $28 bucks for customs but that's nothing i'm in Canada Fyi.

Now my question about OC i'm running 2 EVGA 780 ti SC ACX cards and was wondering what the reason is to use those programs to OC the monitor instead of the nvidia control panel? I couldn't OC to 120 i got green lines across the screen but i was able to OC to 100hz but i noticed in my games with vsync on it stays at 60hz is that why you have to use CRU and those other programs? I know someone asked this awhile back but didn't keep track of an answer thanks in advance


----------



## lightsout

Wow you don't think two 680s will do it? I guess not if your trying to lock 120. I am going to be running mine off of two 660s for the time being. I don't need uber max settings though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Im satisfied with it
> 
> its just as glossy as a crossover,colors are better than the crossover, the crossover has a little yellow tint to it this is much better...
> 
> selling my s27a950d for 400$ at 5pm
> 
> then im selling my 27Q for 250$
> 
> might have to sell my 2x 680 lightning use the money from what i sold to get 2x 780ti to power this thing fully


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I did a clean install of the driver 331.82, patched it, enabled SLI, added custom resolution and then it worked for me.


That's what I did, and yeah not sure why its not working at all... 2nd time doing it now.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Wow you don't think two 680s will do it? I guess not if your trying to lock 120. I am going to be running mine off of two 660s for the time being. I don't need uber max settings though.


Two 680s will crush any game at 1440p on all Ultra settings. It should not have a problem. I think he may just upgrade to upgrade.


----------



## Jotaro

How long until this damn truck gets here


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Hey all i just received my Qnix from bigclothcraft and it's a beautiful monitor and I was amazed at how fast it was delivered I ordered a second little monitor for an axillary display in my country a day before i ordered this monitor and they somehow arrived at my door step at the exact same day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . No dead pixels and very minimal BLB very happy, had to pay $28 bucks for customs but that's nothing i'm in Canada Fyi.
> 
> Now my question about OC i'm running 2 EVGA 780 ti SC ACX cards and was wondering what the reason is to use those programs to OC the monitor instead of the nvidia control panel? I couldn't OC to 120 i got green lines across the screen but i was able to OC to 100hz but i noticed in my games with vsync on it stays at 60hz is that why you have to use CRU and those other programs? I know someone asked this awhile back but didn't keep track of an answer thanks in advance


Is SLI even enabled? If you enable SLI you should have to populate each SLI bus on your video card with a SLI bridge as well as patching the driver.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> That's what I did, and yeah not sure why its not working at all... 2nd time doing it now.


You have two SLI bridges connected right? Also I am running off the DVI-I not DVI-D. Not sure if that makes a difference just listing my config. I also have mine set to 110Hz since 120Hz had a few horizontal lines. I just discovered a stuck pixel top left corner all the way into the corner. Sad since it wasn't there last week.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Is SLI even enabled? If you enable SLI you should have to populate each SLI bus on your video card with a SLI bridge as well as patching the driver.


Sli is enabled and i'm using the 3way evga sli bling bridge so it connects all fingers if that's what you meant


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Sli is enabled and i'm using the 3way evga sli bling bridge so it connects all fingers if that's what you meant


Yes, and you patched it? I am not sure if you have to use the programs they are talking about but mine seems to work with the Nvidia driver.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Is SLI even enabled? If you enable SLI you should have to populate each SLI bus on your video card with a SLI bridge as well as patching the driver.
> You have two SLI bridges connected right? Also I am running off the DVI-I not DVI-D. Not sure if that makes a difference just listing my config. I also have mine set to 110Hz since 120Hz had a few horizontal lines. I just discovered a stuck pixel top left corner all the way into the corner. Sad since it wasn't there last week.


I'm @ 96 and 100 atm, since I have great color settings at this setting.

DVI-D which it should be and 2 single SLI cables connecting the two. I'm running Titans so GPU shouldn't be an issue.

What are you setting your resolutions with CRU? CRU reduced blank ? auto? manual?

I'm using nvidia control panel after installing the catleap monitor driver, since CR utility requires a restart per it seems and still wans't working.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Yes, and you patched it? I am not sure if you have to use the programs they are talking about but mine seems to work with the Nvidia driver.


Like the latest nivida patch ? Then ya? What i'm curious about is when you play games and enabled vsync is it showing the OC fps like staying at 120 or 100 because mine isn't, it's showing 60 with vsync but it shows 100 in windows......


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm @ 96 and 100 atm, since I have great color settings at this setting.
> 
> DVI-D which it should be and 2 single SLI cables connecting the two. I'm running Titans so GPU shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> What are you setting your resolutions with CRU? CRU reduced blank ? auto? manual?
> 
> I'm using nvidia control panel after installing the catleap monitor driver, since CR utility requires a restart per it seems and still wans't working.


DVI-D and DVI-I both can be used. The DVI-I has 4 analog pins out, which are not used. I am not using CRU. I am using the Nvidia control panel for custom res. What are the benefits over the nvidia control panel? I thought CRU was optional.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Like the latest nivida patch ? Then ya? What i'm curious about is when you play games and enabled vsync is it showing the OC fps like staying at 120 or 100 because mine isn't, it's showing 60 with vsync but it shows 100 in windows......


I don't enable vsync because the games that I play are new so I hit around 90-120fps or lower in each game. Is this in a specific game or multiple?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> DVI-D and DVI-I both can be used. The DVI-I has 4 analog pins out, which are not used. I am not using CRU. I am using the Nvidia control panel for custom res. What are the benefits over the nvidia control panel? I thought CRU was optional.
> I don't enable vsync because the games that I play are new so I hit around 90-120fps or lower in each game. Is this in a specific game or multiple?


My apologies I meant CVT vs CRU CR = utility
I'm using nvidia control panel as I stated. It's not accepting on the website though, windows/nvidia shows my hz settings but ufo tester will NOT go over 60...

I see
Automatic
GTF
DMT
CVT
CVT Reduced
Manual

Tried all of these NONE are working, 96 100 110 120hz each. Is there some other option I'm missing?


----------



## flushentitypacket

Sorry if this is a really dumb question, but what retailers/vendors are regarded to be the best in terms of where I should buy one of these monitors? Thanks, all!


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I don't enable vsync because the games that I play are new so I hit around 90-120fps or lower in each game. Is this in a specific game or multiple?


Just in sc2 which i know is really bad for scaling basically i just want a way to test to see if i'm getting 100hz for sure i haven't installed batman or ac4 yet that i got with the card.


----------



## Jotaro

Okay, figured it out. ufotest fails when I have my other display connected. Otherwise it works, and hits 120Hz no less


----------



## Anusha

i'm sorry if this question has been asked before, but can we use a HDMI to Dual Link DVI converter to plug this monitor to the iGPU of the 4770K via the only HDMI port on the Asus Maximus VI Hero, just in case I have to RMA my video card and I get stranded with the iGPU for few days? do such converters exist?


----------



## Jotaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> i'm sorry if this question has been asked before, but can we use a HDMI to Dual Link DVI converter to plug this monitor to the iGPU of the 4770K via the only HDMI port on the Asus Maximus VI Hero, just in case I have to RMA my video card and I get stranded with the iGPU for few days? do such converters exist?


No, definitly not. HDMI can be converted to SL-DVI, but the QNIX requires DL-DVI


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flushentitypacket*
> 
> Sorry if this is a really dumb question, but what retailers/vendors are regarded to be the best in terms of where I should buy one of these monitors? Thanks, all!


Green-Sum
DreamSeller
bigclothcraft
accessorieswhole


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jotaro*
> 
> No, definitly not. HDMI can be converted to SL-DVI, but the QNIX requires DL-DVI


i see. sad, but thanks for the reply.

one more thing. how would they look like if you play games at a non-native res like 1080p?


----------



## hoonstar

When I OC to 96Hz I hear a very faint buzzing in the background

When I OC to 120Hz I hear it a little bit louder

Is this safe? what does it mean?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Green-Sum
> DreamSeller
> bigclothcraft
> accessorieswhole


Did you end up ordering from someone else or are you going w/ Greensum?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Did you end up ordering from someone else or are you going w/ Greensum?


I ended up going with Green-sum.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I ended up going with Green-sum.


K guess I"ll give it another shot, thanks.

Finally got my monitor up and going and running 110hz w/ the same brightness/color as if I was running 60. Probably do the same for 120.


----------



## lightsout

Did you have to do anything special to get it running? What are you using to calibrate colors?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I ended up going with Green-sum.
> 
> 
> 
> K guess I"ll give it another shot, thanks.
> 
> Finally got my monitor up and going and running 110hz w/ the same brightness/color as if I was running 60. Probably do the same for 120.
Click to expand...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Did you have to do anything special to get it running? What are you using to calibrate colors?


Color's wise it came great, no over saturation at all, so may just be lucky, I tested out one of the ICM's but backed off to the generic one.

I mainly increased brightness by 5% lowered Contrast by 3% and increased gamma by .1

.15 for 120hz along w/ 6% brightness increase


----------



## lightsout

Oh that's not bad. Good to see you don't have the yellow tint issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Did you have to do anything special to get it running? What are you using to calibrate colors?
> 
> 
> 
> Color's wise it came great, no over saturation at all, so may just be lucky, I tested out one of the ICM's but backed off to the generic one.
> 
> I mainly increased brightness by 5% lowered Contrast by 3% and increased gamma by .1
> 
> .15 for 120hz along w/ 6% brightness increase
Click to expand...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oh that's not bad. Good to see you don't have the yellow tint issue.


Have you tried going into the nvidia control panel and setting the Green/Blue Channels manually and increasing their brightness/contrast?


----------



## Taint3dBulge

So dual dvi splitter do you guys recommend to get the best over clock outa these monitors..

I found this on amazon..

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVISPL1DD-1-Feet-Digital-Splitter/dp/B00111EMMO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1385783691&sr=8-11&keywords=dual+dvi+cable

Also going to get one of these to hold her up.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B21TLQU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3W3STWCK1O3NR


----------



## lightsout

Oh I don't even have mine yet just saw some reports of yellow tint issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oh that's not bad. Good to see you don't have the yellow tint issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried going into the nvidia control panel and setting the Green/Blue Channels manually and increasing their brightness/contrast?
Click to expand...

What's the splitter for? Is that needed? Does that dual end go in the GPU?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> So dual dvi splitter do you guys recommend to get the best over clock outa these monitors..
> 
> I found this on amazon..
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVISPL1DD-1-Feet-Digital-Splitter/dp/B00111EMMO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1385783691&sr=8-11&keywords=dual+dvi+cable
> 
> Also going to get one of these to hold her up.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B21TLQU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3W3STWCK1O3NR


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oh I don't even have mine yet just saw some reports of yellow tint issues.
> What's the splitter for? Is that needed? Does that dual end go in the GPU?


Ah

and the splitter is to convert 1 signal into 2 , so technically 2x 1080p's depending on the b/w and splitting the max it can put out so 120hz / 2 = 60 per channel. Though I could be wrong and it could pump out more, this is just from what I remmeber.

The cable that comes w/ the box is more than adequate though.


----------



## lightsout

I see, thanks.


----------



## Harry604

Just took the matte coating off of a asus 278q i had lying around
Went perfect nice and glossy now...

Getting tempted to Take the glass off the qnix and see if there is anything I can take off underneath


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Just took the matte coating off of a asus 278q i had lying around
> Went perfect nice and glossy now...
> 
> Getting tempted to Take the glass off the qnix and see if there is anything I can take off underneath


DO IT! That guy taking off the matte coating before really opened my eyes to how crap it is. I mean, i didn't like matte already but seeing that made me realize what it actually is that they do.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Just took the matte coating off of a asus 278q i had lying around
> Went perfect nice and glossy now...
> 
> Getting tempted to Take the glass off the qnix and see if there is anything I can take off underneath


Yeah it's amazing how easy it is right? Just the waiting part is time consuming lol. As for the glass it's not on professionally from what I've seen so it's pretty easy to remove. What I"m curious about though for the glass is the bezel is the bezel thicker because of the glass or does it incorporate into it.

Let us know how your 278Q compares w/ your QNIX since they're technically the exact same panel








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> DO IT! That guy taking off the matte coating before really opened my eyes to how crap it is. I mean, i didn't like matte already but seeing that made me realize what it actually is that they do.


Yeah I was showing someone on skype that when I hold the matte film up tot he screen it gets about 7-10 shades darker, which for these monitors and any high caliber ones with dynamic contrast , this means the deeper darks will blend together making you have cave dark scenes making it annoying to figure out what's where in games etc. The film is however a BIT thinner than some I've seen, wasn't grainy at all so felt more like a screen protector in a way.


----------



## Harry604

well it peeled off fine... monitor was nice and glossy..

i got to put the metal bezel back on guess i pressed little to hard on bottom left corner cracked the lcd...

put it all together and bottom corner is messed lines across the bottom and left side... monitor does look amazing besides the cracked part lol

keep touching the cracked part screen went all haywire flickering lines everywhere can even make out the picture....

now theres a v278q sitting in my backyard lol...

had 4 screens on my desk today
sold the s27a950d
broke the v278q

now im left with the qnix and crossover


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> well it peeled off fine... monitor was nice and glossy..
> 
> i got to put the metal bezel back on guess i pressed little to hard on bottom left corner cracked the lcd...
> 
> put it all together and bottom corner is messed lines across the bottom and left side... monitor does look amazing besides the cracked part lol
> 
> keep touching the cracked part screen went all haywire flickering lines everywhere can even make out the picture....
> 
> now theres a v278q sitting in my backyard lol...
> 
> had 4 screens on my desk today
> sold the s27a950d
> broke the v278q
> 
> now im left with the qnix and crossover


I'm gonna order 2 QNIX's tonight w/ the Glass/ Gloss and try this again. If I rike them then I'll grab another and complete the overhaul of my 4x 23" HPw2338h's and take them to work to add to my desk for a more efficient workday


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> well it peeled off fine... monitor was nice and glossy..
> 
> i got to put the metal bezel back on guess i pressed little to hard on bottom left corner cracked the lcd...
> 
> put it all together and bottom corner is messed lines across the bottom and left side... monitor does look amazing besides the cracked part lol
> 
> keep touching the cracked part screen went all haywire flickering lines everywhere can even make out the picture....
> 
> now theres a v278q sitting in my backyard lol...
> 
> had 4 screens on my desk today
> sold the s27a950d
> broke the v278q
> 
> now im left with the qnix and crossover


Oh nooooooo. So it's stuffed????


----------



## Harry604

Yup it's done


----------



## kushandej

I just got the qnix and overclocked it. It is stable but im getting some image burn into the screen...Does everyone get this? I havent noticed at 60hz only when overclocking. Is there any way to fix it? Ive just been running my games 80hz then everything else at 60. Can it cause any permanent damage? the images seem to go away within a bit


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kushandej*
> 
> I just got the qnix and overclocked it. It is stable but im getting some image burn into the screen...Does everyone get this? I havent noticed at 60hz only when overclocking. Is there any way to fix it? Ive just been running my games 80hz then everything else at 60. Can it cause any permanent damage? the images seem to go away within a bit


If only there was a thread dedicated to the possible side effects that may come up with this monitor and had every answer to your question repeated over and over every few pages by multiple members.

Sorry couldn't help it. Search "burn in", "image retention" or "color retention" in this thread.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> If only there was a thread dedicated to the possible side effects that may come up with this monitor and had every answer to your question repeated over and over every few pages by multiple members.
> 
> Sorry couldn't help it. Search "burn in", "image retention" or "color retention" in this thread.


Could always make a section in the OP


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> Yup it's done


That sucks man.


----------



## Mp0wer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So overclockmonitor. com replied to my question about tempered. Sounds like plain glossy is out and tempered glass is now the norm.
> 
> " Regarding plain glossy version of QNIX QX2710 LED, you might mean the past version. Currently released glossy version is somewhat similar to tempered glass version. As far as we know, when they released QNIX QX2710 very first time, 'glossy version' meant plain glossy and tempered glass. However, by sellers, plain glossy and tempered glass version were separated(When we even did not exist.). We found out this information since so many customers had asked about it. (We learned it as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> And now, plain glossy are not likely released. We also have some glossy, but it is not sell-able quality."
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


I ordered from this company hoping to get just glossy, this was before you posted this, I told them I wanted glossy, not matte, not tempered glass, they haven't responded or shipped out my monitor, this sucks









I hope they don't ship the not sell-able quality one

On their website, they have glossy, matte, tempered glass?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Could always make a section in the OP


There is also a section in the OP but it doesn't have all the info the thread does. Threads rules are to read the OP first which he did NOT do by the context of his post and questions.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> I ordered from this company hoping to get just glossy, this was before you posted this, I told them I wanted glossy, not matte, not tempered glass, they haven't responded or shipped out my monitor, this sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope they don't ship the not sell-able quality one
> 
> On their website, they have glossy, matte, tempered glass?


I would see if there is a phone number to call. I can tell you from experience they usually take 24 hours to respond. For me on the west coast. I always got emails back around midnight. Sometimes if I emailed them early morning they might respond the same day that night.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> I would see if there is a phone number to call. I can tell you from experience they usually take 24 hours to respond. For me on the west coast. I always got emails back around midnight. Sometimes if I emailed them early morning they might respond the same day that night.


Ur lucky then for the past week even if I email the moment they do I never see a reply until exactly 24 hours later.

All he does is copy the same reply to all my emails for the day regardless of what I ask. So I beleive their game is to hope you just accept it and are to lazy to return. A few nehative votes might get them to pay attention though


----------



## junkrok

overclockmonitor is just a site run by an ebay seller, notice it has the Top Rated Seller ebay graphic on their front-page. they used the same graphics that greensum uses on their listings. I don't know why you would buy from their site instead of ebay, since buying from the site means they no longer have to adhere to ebays seller standards (reply to all emails, update tracking within 1 day, etc.)

also has anyone actually received a glossy in past month? It seems like all the sellers are selling the Tempered Glass as the glossy version now.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> I ordered from this company hoping to get just glossy, this was before you posted this, I told them I wanted glossy, not matte, not tempered glass, they haven't responded or shipped out my monitor, this sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope they don't ship the not sell-able quality one
> 
> On their website, they have glossy, matte, tempered glass?


If you requested the glossy monitor, you will get the glossy one.

Simple as that.

You're just being paranoid.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> overclockmonitor is just a site run by an ebay seller, notice it has the Top Rated Seller ebay graphic on their front-page. they used the same graphics that greensum uses on their listings. I don't know why you would buy from their site instead of ebay, since buying from the site means they no longer have to adhere to ebays seller standards (reply to all emails, update tracking within 1 day, etc.)
> 
> also has anyone actually received a glossy in past month? It seems like all the sellers are selling the Tempered Glass as the glossy version now.


This is true. I don't think anyone is selling plain gloss anymore.


----------



## jincuteguy

Do they still shipping out the wrong one? Like instead of Tempered glass, they ship out Matte?


----------



## junkrok

I was unable to buy a second Glossy qnix. most of the sellers admitted they were selling the qnix tempered glass as the "new" glossy.

I think many people here are being fooled into thinking their tempered glass monitor is the same as the glossy. It is not.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I was unable to buy a second Glossy qnix. most of the sellers admitted they were selling the qnix tempered glass as the "new" glossy.
> 
> I think many people here are being fooled into thinking their tempered glass monitor is the same as the glossy. It is not.


What u mean it is "not" the same? Isn't tempered glass and glossy provide the glossiness? I dont see the difference in "reality". In theory it prob different.

Also does anyone know if these Qnix / X-star Evolution 2 PLS monitors hare wide gamut? Or are they just 2560-1440res PLS panel and that's it?


----------



## Harry604

to be honest

tempered glass is just as glossy as my q27 glossy if not better image quality


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What u mean it is "not" the same? Isn't tempered glass and glossy provide the glossiness? I dont see the difference in "reality". In theory it prob different.
> 
> Also does anyone know if these Qnix / X-star Evolution 2 PLS monitors hare wide gamut? Or are they just 2560-1440res PLS panel and that's it?


I mean exactly what I said. It's not the same monitor that was being sold 3 months ago.

I have the GLOSSY QNIX QX2710 Evolution II. There is no tempered glass plate between my view and the panel, there is only a Glossy panel without any matte coating, hence it is the Glossy version.

The TEMPERED GLASS QX2710 Evolution II adds a tempered glass plate between the bezel and panel. Some have even reported that the panel behind the tempered glass is matte coated, which defeats the purpose.

Regardless, it is a different monitor. I wanted another GLOSSY QX2710 and I can't find one because the sellers are now claiming the tempered glass model is the "Glossy" model. Maybe the Tempered Glass is just as good, but I don't want to buy one and find out it is not...


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I mean exactly what I said. It's not the same monitor that was being sold 3 months ago.
> 
> I have the GLOSSY QNIX QX2710 Evolution II. There is no tempered glass plate between my view and the panel, there is only a Glossy panel without any matte coating, hence it is the Glossy version.
> 
> The TEMPERED GLASS QX2710 Evolution II adds a tempered glass plate between the bezel and panel. Some have even reported that the panel behind the tempered glass is matte coated, which defeats the purpose.
> 
> Regardless, it is a different monitor. I wanted another GLOSSY QX2710 and I can't find one because the sellers are now claiming the tempered glass model is the "Glossy" model. Maybe the Tempered Glass is just as good, but I don't want to buy one and find out it is not...


Whether if it has the matte behind the tempered glass or not, it still look the same man. Who told u it will look different with the matte behind the tempered glass?
Also I dont get why are they still selling "matte" screen? lol like who would use a matte screen monitor anymore? Like the only benefit u get is no reflection, but even if u see reflection, it's minimal with the screen turned on.


----------



## Jotaro

I ordered an X-STAR monitor. The box had a big X-STAR logo on it. I just noticed that the logo on the bezel says QNIX. Hah.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Whether if it has the matte behind the tempered glass or not, it still look the same man. Who told u it will look different with the matte behind the tempered glass?
> Also I dont get why are they still selling "matte" screen? lol like who would use a matte screen monitor anymore? Like the only benefit u get is no reflection, but even if u see reflection, it's minimal with the screen turned on.


If its matte behind it it will be slightly darker and more contrast I believe the main worry is of its gloss or matte BEHIND the glass. I ordered gloss and got matte I removed the matte film and I can tell you there IS a difference


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Whether if it has the matte behind the tempered glass or not, it still look the same man. Who told u it will look different with the matte behind the tempered glass?
> Also I dont get why are they still selling "matte" screen? lol like who would use a matte screen monitor anymore? Like the only benefit u get is no reflection, but even if u see reflection, it's minimal with the screen turned on.


I'm sorry to say, but you don't seem to know much about the advantages/disadvantages between Matte, Glossy, or Tempered Glass monitors.

If the QNIX tempered glass has a matte panel installed, it degrades the image clarity/sharpness that a true Glossy (non-matte coated) panel would have. It's not all the same, but people are being tricked on ebay now.

QNIX QX2710 Glossy != QNIX QX2710 Tempered Glass != QNIX QX2710 Matte

These are three different monitors and buyers should be educated, not misled, on their differences.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I'm sorry to say, but you don't seem to know much about the advantages/disadvantages between Matte, Glossy, or Tempered Glass monitors.
> 
> If the QNIX tempered glass has a matte panel installed, it degrades the image clarity/sharpness that a true Glossy (non-matte coated) panel would have. It's not all the same, but people are being tricked on ebay now.
> 
> QNIX QX2710 Glossy != QNIX QX2710 Tempered Glass != QNIX QX2710 Matte
> 
> These are three different monitors and buyers should be educated, not misled, on their differences.


In my experience, matte panels have the same observable image quality as glossy panels.

Matte panels may produce a grainy effect but most monitor manufacturers have alleviated these problems with matte monitors.

Especially if your room is exposed to sunlight, it makes perfect sense to get a matte panel.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I'm sorry to say, but you don't seem to know much about the advantages/disadvantages between Matte, Glossy, or Tempered Glass monitors.
> 
> If the QNIX tempered glass has a matte panel installed, it degrades the image clarity/sharpness that a true Glossy (non-matte coated) panel would have. It's not all the same, but people are being tricked on ebay now.
> 
> QNIX QX2710 Glossy != QNIX QX2710 Tempered Glass != QNIX QX2710 Matte
> 
> These are three different monitors and buyers should be educated, not misled, on their differences.
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, matte panels have the same observable image quality as glossy panels.
> 
> Matte panels may produce a grainy effect but most monitor manufacturers have alleviated these problems with matte monitors.
> 
> Especially if your room is exposed to sunlight, it makes perfect sense to get a matte panel.
Click to expand...

I have to disagree with you there. IMO glossy panels look much more vibrant. The picture looks beautiful. With matte it is kind of dulled. That is my experience.

EDIT****

Anyone know if this tracking is showing my monitor in the US? Seems like it but then the December 1 hit shows korea again. Or does the Kentucky thing just mean they are anticipating it?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I have to disagree with you there. IMO glossy panels look much more vibrant. The picture looks beautiful. With matte it is kind of dulled. That is my experience.


Pretty much this, While some mfc's MAY have gotten rid of the grainyness, there is still a small sacrifice made for matte over gloss. I left half on my X-star to prove this, color's were a bit brighter, darks could be seen better and weren't all blended together thanks to the matte film making dynamic contrast less annoying. There was about a 10 shade diff as well and sharpness went up.

Gloss on the left w/o matte, matte film on the right. For monitors like these, having darker colors/less backlight getting through = annoying when cranking them up to 120hz as intended. Granted there is a need for matte, just wanting to point out that there IS a difference.


----------



## StarFrost

I just received my Qnix QX2710 Matte and in black areas it looks like in this video: 



 when viewed from angles, and when sitting straight on I can see it a little bit in the bottom right. Doesn't look like backlight bleed though

Is this normal?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I'm sorry to say, but you don't seem to know much about the advantages/disadvantages between Matte, Glossy, or Tempered Glass monitors.
> 
> If the QNIX tempered glass has a matte panel installed, it degrades the image clarity/sharpness that a true Glossy (non-matte coated) panel would have. It's not all the same, but people are being tricked on ebay now.
> 
> QNIX QX2710 Glossy != QNIX QX2710 Tempered Glass != QNIX QX2710 Matte
> 
> These are three different monitors and buyers should be educated, not misled, on their differences.
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience, matte panels have the same observable image quality as glossy panels.
> 
> Matte panels may produce a grainy effect but most monitor manufacturers have alleviated these problems with matte monitors.
> 
> Especially if your room is exposed to sunlight, it makes perfect sense to get a matte panel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have to disagree with you there. IMO glossy panels look much more vibrant. The picture looks beautiful. With matte it is kind of dulled. That is my experience.
> 
> EDIT****
> 
> Anyone know if this tracking is showing my monitor in the US? Seems like it but then the December 1 hit shows korea again. Or does the Kentucky thing just mean they are anticipating it?
Click to expand...

Got my answer on the shipping. It just hit Alaska, expected delivery is Monday


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Got my answer on the shipping. It just hit Alaska, expected delivery is Monday


Sorry to ask again if I did, which seller did you order from and did you grab gloss? If so they told you tempered + gloss right? Hopefully you'll be able to tell when you get it. Lemme know though as I'm debating on who to order through now as I can't trust greensum anymore w/ this whole " We only take the time to respond once a day " ordeal.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Got my answer on the shipping. It just hit Alaska, expected delivery is Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to ask again if I did, which seller did you order from and did you grab gloss? If so they told you tempered + gloss right? Hopefully you'll be able to tell when you get it. Lemme know though as I'm debating on who to order through now as I can't trust greensum anymore w/ this whole " We only take the time to respond once a day " ordeal.
Click to expand...

Once a day is annoying to me but its acceptable. I can't knock them for it.

I got it from worldsbest, and from the emails I have seen from greensum they appear to be the same.

I was happy with his responses though he was upfront and held my package until I confirmed I was ok with it. I am getting a tempred glass version. Do not plan to remove the glass unless it looks really bad. Don't want to risk damaging it unless totally necessary. But I will just be testing it and then wrapping it back up as this is my Christmas present from my wife.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Once a day is annoying to me but its acceptable. I can't knock them for it.
> 
> I got it from worldsbest, and from the emails I have seen from greensum they appear to be the same.
> 
> I was happy with his responses though he was upfront and held my package until I confirmed I was ok with it. I am getting a tempred glass version. Do not plan to remove the glass unless it looks really bad. Don't want to risk damaging it unless totally necessary. But I will just be testing it and then wrapping it back up as this is my Christmas present from my wife.


Kk good to know ,

also worldsbest has a longer shipment date declared than greensum, any idea on that?

I"ll probably remove the panel on mine and test behind it to verify. Appreciate it, I think my monitor has a warm filter going for it, any tools out there that can help me set a cooler tone? I reduced the red's by about 3-4% so far. I just noticed I can clearly tell the diff in skin tone between monitors though lol.


----------



## Joshdm2001

I ordered a glossy QNIX from green-sum. I had no idea the "new glossy" = tempered glass. How do I remove the matte coating once I open up the monitor? Does it just peel right off?


----------



## lightsout

Idk why the shipping times are different. Noticed that too. Mine is coming from ups. The speed is two business days which imo is crazy fast from Korea. I'm in California BTW. Don't like hearing that it's warm though. Someone posted their personal cool icc profile. Never tried it as I don't have mine but I think I downloaded it. Could share it if you want or maybe the guy that made it should idk his screen name it's in his Sig.


----------



## Ovrclck

Looks like mine will be shipped on Monday. Doh!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> I ordered a glossy QNIX from green-sum. I had no idea the "new glossy" = tempered glass. How do I remove the matte coating once I open up the monitor? Does it just peel right off?


Depends first if you have glossy or matte underneath, from what we've been seeing it seems 50/50. As for removing the matte film the process takes about 5-6 hours. First 15-20 minutes dismantling it ( takes a while due to being careful ) the next 5-6 hours letting it sit w/ damp towerls over the screen until the film loosens up enough to remove it. Then its about a 5 minute process of putting it back together.

I'm very pleased after removing mine, I'm in LOVE w/ this monitor. My light is overhead in my room so I have like 0% reflection most of the time. Lovin the deep blacks and colors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Idk why the shipping times are different. Noticed that too. Mine is coming from ups. The speed is two business days which imo is crazy fast from Korea. I'm in California BTW. Don't like hearing that it's warm though. Someone posted their personal cool icc profile. Never tried it as I don't have mine but I think I downloaded it. Could share it if you want or maybe the guy that made it should idk his screen name it's in his Sig.


Yeah I think there was a tool someone posted I"m browsing through now where it gives the options almost like having an OSD.


----------



## Joshdm2001

LunaP, how do I tell if I have matte or glossy under the tempered glass. Do you have a guide or know of a link to removing matte?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> LunaP, how do I tell if I have matte or glossy under the tempered glass. Do you have a guide or know of a link to removing matte?


I'll have to wait for my tempered to arrive to make a guide so I can see how the glass is taped on.

As for telling which you have? I'd guess by dimming the lights a bit and looking @ all angles @ the reflection and checking for any blur. If you see blur matte exists if its just pure 100% reflection then it should be gloss. Though I'll know once I receive it.


----------



## lightsout

Seems like it's hard to really say for sure as it seems fairly subjective to ones eyes unless we all actually open ours up. I will report what mine appears to be when I get it.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll have to wait for my tempered to arrive to make a guide so I can see how the glass is taped on.
> 
> As for telling which you have? I'd guess by dimming the lights a bit and looking @ all angles @ the reflection and checking for any blur. If you see blur matte exists if its just pure 100% reflection then it should be gloss. Though I'll know once I receive it.


I'm 99.99999 per cent sure mine is glossy beneath the tempered glass just by the way it looks and by comparison to the asus pb278q matte screen i had, plus accessorieswhole confirmed it's glossy, but not knowing for 100% sure is... irritating lol. I have sent them off another email just for clarification, i don't want them telling me what they think i want to hear, i just want the truth from them. I will let you guys know what they say. FTR this is what i sent them...

Hi, sorry to bother you again, but i am seeing some reports from people that the qnix tempered glass 2710 has a matte screen underneath.If it does it's no big deal, i will just remove it myself, Just wondering if you can confirm either way if it's glossy or matte or is it a fifty fifty chance of being either? Thanks!


----------



## MenacingTuba

Tempered glass left vs. glossy.


Tempered glass left vs. semi-glossy (same coating as the Qnix). This photo is much better


It should be pretty obvious if the monitor is using tempered glass.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Tempered glass left vs. glossy.
> 
> *It should be pretty obvious if the monitor is using tempered glass.*


Yeah but issue is figuring out what's behind the glass lol.


----------



## Mp0wer

Can someone cypher this email from overclockmonitor.com, I have no idea what he's talking about

First of all, thank you for your purchase.

Regarding the panel, the manufacturer currently produces glossy panel as; just a panel(people call it glossy) + anti-glare coating + tempered glass. This is also applied to AH-IPS panel which is newest LG's panel and LG calls it 'Glossy' panel. Well, QNIX uses SAMSUNG PLS panel, but we are just letting you know how the glossy panel is like. We are holding your item. Please let us know if we can ship the monitor(in your definition, it's tempered glass) or not.

Thank you.

Best regards,
Overclockmonitor.com


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I'm 99.99999 per cent sure mine is glossy beneath the tempered glass just by the way it looks and by comparison to the asus pb278q matte screen i had, plus accessorieswhole confirmed it's glossy, but not knowing for 100% sure is... irritating lol. I have sent them off another email just for clarification, i don't want them telling me what they think i want to hear, i just want the truth from them. I will let you guys know what they say. FTR this is what i sent them...
> 
> Hi, sorry to bother you again, but i am seeing some reports from people that the qnix tempered glass 2710 has a matte screen underneath.If it does it's no big deal, i will just remove it myself, Just wondering if you can confirm either way if it's glossy or matte or is it a fifty fifty chance of being either? Thanks!


I bet they really have no idea. I'm pretty sure I just got a standard matte my self, no tempered glass or anything and I love it. Best 300$ I ever spent running 110hz now for a couple months no issues.


----------



## Prohibit

Hi guys I had my 27" qnix 1440p OC'd to 110hz for about 2 months before it stopped turning on for me, the screen did start to glitch and then shut off with a puff of smoke coming out the back on it's hopefully not final working hour, I THINK I have found the problem, but cannot replace the part because I have no idea what it says... here's a pic - i've circled the part that's faulty (assuming it's not meant to have a melted hole through the middle) and if anyone can help identify what it is that would be ****in awesome!

the two parts that look the same next to it say Z2W and than a 32 on it's side, but the one that's faulty is different I have no idea what it says in place of Z2W but I can see that it has a 25 on its side rather than a 32. If any one could help me out it would be much appreciated! Thanks heaps


----------



## wjmeyer

Need advice: I tried two different video cards, an MSI HD6570 and an (old ATI) HD4250 and can only get 2246x1263 resolution from my new 27" X-Star, when checked on screenresolution.org website. Right-clicking on the screen, and clicking screen resolution says I'm getting 2560x1440, but I'm really not. Updated drivers don't get me to 2560x1440 resolution. Both cards have specs up to 2560x1600, what's the problem.
I can upgrade to a new graphics card (with low power consumption), but don't need hi-end card since I don't do any gaming (more into stock investing). Any advice appreciated.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Tempered glass left vs. glossy.
> 
> 
> Tempered glass left vs. semi-glossy (same coating as the Qnix). This photo is much better
> 
> 
> It should be pretty obvious if the monitor is using tempered glass.


Yeah, we are trying to establish for certain what is behind the tempered glass, we know we have tempered glass lol, just some reports of matte beneath the tempered glass have a few of us concerned, although i think it would still be pretty noticeable if that were the case too.


----------



## m3us

@Prohibit check out this site,its got some data on surface mounted devices like that
http://www.marsport.org.uk/smd/mainframe.htm

Its a SOT23 package;Could be a MMBD1202 or a DTC124ECA

MMBD1202
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/MM/MMBD1201.pdf

DTC124ECA
http://www.rectron.com/data_sheets/dtc124eca.pdf

Clear pictures of the back and front of the diagram could help.Otherwise just buy a replacement PCB board from your seller.

@wjmeyer
On ebay specifications of the korean monitors,the hd 5750 is said to not be supported by the monitor
check this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-QHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/330965189439?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item4d0f10033f


----------



## wjmeyer

m3us: My bad, "upon further review",the card was a MSI HD-6570 (2GB), not the unsupported HD-5750. I corrected my orig. post. Thanks.


----------



## m3us

No problem,i would check the cables and restart the system.
Try asking your seller about it.


----------



## lightsout

I'm pretty sure the 6770 was just a rebadged 5770. Was that not the case with the 6570? I guess if it has 2gb of ram it's at least somewhat different.


----------



## m3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yeah, we are trying to establish for certain what is behind the tempered glass, we know we have tempered glass lol, just some reports of matte beneath the tempered glass have a few of us concerned, although i think it would still be pretty noticeable if that were the case too.


I asked dream-sellers its matte underneath tempered glass for x-star tempered glass listing.


----------



## yawa

Sigh I forgot this thread existed, disregard my other thread.


----------



## Joshdm2001

Found this over at hard forums. Even though it's a dell, the concept is the same. May try this on my QNIX if my tempered glass truly does have matte underneath.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1674033


----------



## m3us

I think guys have done this on the korean monitors ,check earlier posts in this thread.


----------



## Net200777

Hello everyone. I haven't been keeping up with any of the latest things going on with these monitors. Is there any newer version of CRU and ways to overclock?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> Can someone cypher this email from overclockmonitor.com, I have no idea what he's talking about
> 
> First of all, thank you for your purchase.
> 
> Regarding the panel, the manufacturer currently produces glossy panel as; just a panel(people call it glossy) + anti-glare coating + tempered glass. This is also applied to AH-IPS panel which is newest LG's panel and LG calls it 'Glossy' panel. Well, QNIX uses SAMSUNG PLS panel, but we are just letting you know how the glossy panel is like. We are holding your item. Please let us know if we can ship the monitor(in your definition, it's tempered glass) or not.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Overclockmonitor.com


Here's what I got from them.
Quote:


> Hope you had a happy Thanksgiving!
> 
> And, sorry for the late response. The email account had some system errors. Hope you understand it!
> 
> Nowadays, we also know that customers are very looking for 'plain glossy' Qnix QX2710. Unfortunately, we only have glossy version which has tempered glass on it. The manufacturer produces glossy panels with anti-glare coating and tempered glass. They said that plain glossy(panel without anything on it) had many problems.
> 
> And QNIX QX2710 uses PLS panel. And YAMAKASI, ACHIEVA, and CROSSOVER use LG IPS panel.
> As long as we know, LG's new panel, AH-IPS panel is also tempered glassed. More specifically, a panel + anti-glare coating + tempered glass. So you can think that current PLS glossy panel is same as AH-IPS panel. Well, AH-IPS is much thinner, so they are not exactly same though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> We have some plain glossy panel-QNIX QX2710, but they are not so sell-able condition. So we are just keeping them.
> Are you only interested in QNIX QX2710 plain glossy? We also know that many customers want those version, but we cannot find it since the manufacturer does not produce it anymore.
> 
> We use DHL or UPS to ship monitors to the US. And as long as everything goes smoothly, shipping will be done within 5~7 business days, sometimes, even faster.
> 
> Please feel free to contact if you have additional questions. We will be always willing to help you!! Thnak you!
> 
> Best,
> Overclockmonitor.com


Basically they're putting coating on the gloss panels and if not they're putting tempered glass. It may be a thin version of what I pulled off in which would be semi gloss which I'd be more fine with. I believe the issues they're having with the gloss only is scratching or the way the polarizer is applied, hence the film eliminating the diagonal lines. I noticed this on mine a bit but I'm more in belief it's just one of the cables not seated correctly or something touching somewhere inside so I'll open up and take a look.

Anywhoo to sum up what the seller is saying:

QNIX/XSTAR are PLS while all other korean models are IPS, normal gloss is no longer sold only as tempered glass w/ AG coating. When they say "they produce glossy panels" most monitors by default are gloss w/ matte applied, so in a nut shell they're ONLY producing matte screens w/ tempered glass to give it a semi glossy look.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> Found this over at hard forums. Even though it's a dell, the concept is the same. May try this on my QNIX if my tempered glass truly does have matte underneath.
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1674033


I guess ag coating just doesn't bother me. i use that exact same monitor on my freebsd machine and have never noticed any sparkling like that guy says


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Here's what I got from them.
> Basically they're putting coating on the gloss panels and if not they're putting tempered glass. It may be a thin version of what I pulled off in which would be semi gloss which I'd be more fine with. I believe the issues they're having with the gloss only is scratching or the way the polarizer is applied, hence the film eliminating the diagonal lines. I noticed this on mine a bit but I'm more in belief it's just one of the cables not seated correctly or something touching somewhere inside so I'll open up and take a look.
> 
> Anywhoo to sum up what the seller is saying:
> 
> QNIX/XSTAR are PLS while all other korean models are IPS, normal gloss is no longer sold only as tempered glass w/ AG coating. When they say "they produce glossy panels" most monitors by default are gloss w/ matte applied, so in a nut shell they're ONLY producing matte screens w/ tempered glass to give it a semi glossy look.


This is ******ed. So basically we get a matte with a reflective surface. Which defeats the purpose of true gloss. So our colors are slightly dulled due to the matte and I'm stuck at looking at my ugly reflective face with tempered glass. Explains why green-sum is selling these for 299$

Three dealers have confirmed this.
Green-sum
Dream seller
Overclock monitor

Am I wrong is there a color advantage to going tempered glass over matte now that we know they use ag?


----------



## m3us

I guess tempered glass is just for protection at this point.
IMO Matte is the only choice now.
The matte is more expensive than the tempered glass though (atleast for me when i checked.)


----------



## Harry604

Having my real glossy crossover q27 beside my tempered glass qnix with who knows what under it

There exactly the same can't tell a difference

Nothing is blurry on the tempered glass


----------



## aufkrawall

Dam it. If I had known this before I would have ordered the matte one.
I don't need any protection if the screen is located at the very other side of the table...

Edit: Ok, Harry's post sounds good on the other hand. Such tension...


----------



## Mp0wer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aufkrawall*
> 
> Dam it. If I had known this before I would have ordered the matte one.
> I don't need any protection if the screen is located at the very other side of the table...
> 
> Edit: Ok, Harry's post sounds good on the other hand. Such tension...


The tension is crazy, I just ordered a qnix with tempered glass, I'll remove the antiglare and use the glass as protection


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Hi guys, I've decided I want to try to take a chance with a Korean monitor. I've heard the Qnix is the best choice.

Basically, all I want to know is, if this seller

http://www.overclockmonitor.com/daily-deals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html

ships to Canada. If not, are there any Canadians here who have ordered one of these? What is the best site to order off? Thanks.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Hi guys, I've decided I want to try to take a chance with a Korean monitor. I've heard the Qnix is the best choice.
> 
> Basically, all I want to know is, if this seller
> 
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/daily-deals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html
> 
> ships to Canada. If not, are there any Canadians here who have ordered one of these? What is the best site to order off? Thanks.


I'm in Manitoba and I just received mine last week I ordered off Ebay from bigclothcraft no dead pixels and very little BLB after all said and done think i paid 360, customs fees and taxes weren't that much it was like 28 bucks which i was amazed by....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> The tension is crazy, I just ordered a qnix with tempered glass, I'll remove the antiglare and use the glass as protection


I'd hold off on removing AG just yet, there are 2 reasons why I can see if they stopped doing Glossy. Since they're A- monitors the only option I can see is that either 1) Scratching
or 2) Polarizer.

After I removed my AG and popped it back on I started to notice diagonal (very faint) lines going from top left to bottom right, mainly noticeable on white but still very faint so after a bit I don't really notice them until I'm looking.

That said either 1) When I put it back together one of the wires isn't connected all the way in or protected as earlier, or 2) The polarizer isn't on correctly, as I notice if I push the matte film against it, I can't see it. So this is definitely a concern. I'm working on finals though and having a bad time getting Snort-report to pick up new rules properly for one assignment, but after which I'll be taking mine apart again to verify the safety of the cables then attempt again, if all is good after that then there's no worry.


----------



## driedupfish

Does anyone have trouble using Color Calibration Profile (ICC) posted on the first page or your own along with f.lux? Can anyone confirm that both can work together or do I have to disable f.lux to get ICC profile working?

Thanks.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> I'm in Manitoba and I just received mine last week I ordered off Ebay from bigclothcraft no dead pixels and very little BLB after all said and done think i paid 360, customs fees and taxes weren't that much it was like 28 bucks which i was amazed by....


http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-27-QX2710-Evolution-ll-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130874118193?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e78b49031&_uhb=1

Is that the link?

Is it safer to go through Ebay rather then that other site I posted? I never bought an item off Ebay before.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-27-QX2710-Evolution-ll-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/130874118193?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e78b49031&_uhb=1
> 
> Is that the link?
> 
> Is it safer to go through Ebay rather then that other site I posted? I never bought an item off Ebay before.


I recommend going through ebay that way you're protected.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I recommend going through ebay that way you're protected.


Ok.

From this list, which one do you recommend?

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xqnix&_nkw=qnix&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Are these all different sellers? I'm confused.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Ok.
> 
> From this list, which one do you recommend?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xqnix&_nkw=qnix&_sacat=0&_from=R40
> 
> Are these all different sellers? I'm confused.


They're all different.

go with this one.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3&_uhb=1

btw. Are you looking for matte or tempered glass?


----------



## Slaughtahouse

I forgot to mention that I want Matte (window by my computer desk) and I want to get a pixel perfect one. Yes, I know you can still get a dead pixel but if they are saying 0-1 pixels and minimal BLB, I rather pay the extra 10-20$ for it.

Sorry, should of mentioned that first.

Also, is the Qnix the best for the money? Should there be other ones to consider?


----------



## Mp0wer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'd hold off on removing AG just yet, there are 2 reasons why I can see if they stopped doing Glossy. Since they're A- monitors the only option I can see is that either 1) Scratching
> or 2) Polarizer.


Hey LunaP

Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll hold off on taking the AG off









Doesn't the apple monitor use tempered glass too?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> I forgot to mention that I want Matte (window by my computer desk) and I want to get a pixel perfect one. Yes, I know you can still get a dead pixel but if they are saying 0-1 pixels and minimal BLB, I rather pay the extra 10-20$ for it.
> 
> Sorry, should of mentioned that first.
> 
> Also, is the Qnix the best for the money? Should there be other ones to consider?


Qnix/Xstar are the same you can go with either, don't be fooled by pixel perfect, it's just an extra money gimmick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> Hey LunaP
> 
> Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll hold off on taking the AG off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't the apple monitor use tempered glass too?


Yeah same as the apple cinema displays.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'd hold off on removing AG just yet, there are 2 reasons why I can see if they stopped doing Glossy. Since they're A- monitors the only option I can see is that either 1) Scratching
> or 2) Polarizer.
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't the apple monitor use tempered glass too?
Click to expand...

Pretty sure they don't have matte under though. Just saying.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Qnix/Xstar are the same you can go with either, don't be fooled by pixel perfect, it's just an extra money gimmick


^ This


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Ok. I went for the 300$ matte version

:0

dat risk lol

Hopefully it's good. Thanks for the help guys. + rep to both of you


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Ok. I went for the 300$ matte version
> 
> :0
> 
> dat risk lol
> 
> Hopefully it's good. Thanks for the help guys. + rep to both of you


Awesome man. You'll be pleased









Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Awesome man. You'll be pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


I sure hope so. I bought the BenQ XL2720t and while it was a good monitor... 520$ for 1080p just made me feel ill. So I returned it. Even if this has a dead pixel or two, I wont mind. I just pray that it won't be a total turd.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Awesome man. You'll be pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I sure hope so. I bought the BenQ XL2720t and while it was a good monitor... 520$ for 1080p just made me feel ill. So I returned it. Even if this has a dead pixel or two, I wont mind. I just pray that it won't be a total turd.
Click to expand...

I haven't played on a 1080p in years, can't beat $300 for Samsung PLS.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Failuyr

Has anyone taken the internals/panel out and built themselves a slim bezel?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> I sure hope so. I bought the BenQ XL2720t and while it was a good monitor... 520$ for 1080p just made me feel ill. So I returned it. Even if this has a dead pixel or two, I wont mind. I just pray that it won't be a total turd.


Don't worry, while I was showing a difference between gloss/matte you really won't know the difference by much as long as you don't have a gloss.

As I stated earlier when I opened the box I was dissapointed to see matte however, I was still blown away by the quality, I almost convereted to matte, but in the end it's gloss for me.

You're getting a 300$ monitor that's not only top grade, but the 120hz is amazing, even @ 100hz it's still the same, Tomb Raider looks AMAZING on this thing in 1440p, and my SLI Titan's couldn't be happier, in fact I"m grabbing a 3rd in preparation for swapping out all of my monitors for these, so either or you're gonna be happy









I'll definitely take the time to make a tutorial though for taking it apart if none exist here, for those that really do want to remove the film if need be. Just need to verify on my end if its the polarizer or the cables for these lines.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

I know, it sounds too good to be true. It's not like my single 780 can push new end games at 120hz native, but I might setup a 120hz profile for games anyways. Especially since I play a bunch of older titles. I've just read that some people have had issues running 120hz 24/7. But i've been on 120hz for years (22" 1050p...) and I love 120hz.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> I know, it sounds too good to be true. It's not like my single 780 can push new end games at 120hz native, but I might setup a 120hz profile for games anyways. Especially since I play a bunch of older titles. I've just read that some people have had issues running 120hz 24/7. But i've been on 120hz for years (22" 1050p...) and I love 120hz.


Even a single 780 should be able to push 90+ as long as settings aren't maxed, in which w/ these monitors anything around 96+ so far is nearly the same as 120hz so most people usually get off around having a 96/100/110hz profile vs 120. Mine's currently on 110 for now. I may drop it back down to 100 in the future but 110 seems to be my frame rate average on TR so I don't see the need to push it further. It's gorgeous and you're gonna pinch yourself when you see it, 1440p and 100hz+ it's truly ahead of its game.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Well, I have BF4 set to a custom settings. On my 1050p display, I get 100-120fps. When I had my benq 1080p, I was averaging around 90-100. So i'm figuring that 1440p would be around 50-60fps. But that is one of the most demanding games I play, everything else should be fine.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Well, I have BF4 set to a custom settings. On my 1050p display, I get 100-120fps. When I had my benq 1080p, I was averaging around 90-100. So i'm figuring that 1440p would be around 50-60fps. But that is one of the most demanding games I play, everything else should be fine.


I doubt it'll drop by that much, as you can tone down the aliasing settings as well as SMAA as the 1440p aspect will more than compensate for it







at most you may keep the same frame rate lol.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

do any of you guys know what greensums perfect pixel police is? it dosnt say on his listing. it just has the regular pixel policy.
thanks


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

also, this listing is for a glosssy monitor. I thought they were all matt or glass now??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3

what about these guys? there in the us?
http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I doubt it'll drop by that much, as you can tone down the aliasing settings as well as SMAA as the 1440p aspect will more than compensate for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at most you may keep the same frame rate lol.


Oh yea, forgot about the AA.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> do any of you guys know what greensums perfect pixel police is? it dosnt say on his listing. it just has the regular pixel policy.
> thanks


Ignore it , it means nothing, just go regular.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> also, this listing is for a glosssy monitor. I thought they were all matt or glass now??
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> what about these guys? there in the us?
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm


It's a 50/50 from what we're told, gloss behind glass, or matte behind glass or matte.

Forgot about them. Clicking About/Contact shows they're in Cali.
Quote:


> IPSLEDMONITORS.com will cover dead pixels (any amount), uneven backlighting or discoloration, total backlight or screen failure, screen flickering or any intermittent screen display issues.


If that's true it sounds pretty good.


----------



## Ovrclck

Even if you order witg ipsledmonitors. com, the monitor still ships from Korea.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

hmm so were would you guys get it? i have bad luck with electronics lol so im just nervous...


----------



## Mp0wer

I'm actually using a BenQ 144Hz, the gaming is pretty smooth with 0 lag or ghosting, but the colors and blacks are absolutely horrible, hopefully my qnix won't have any lag, but those beautiful inky blacks and vibrant colors will make up for any lag.

I also hope the contrast ratio is good, so I can see those dark areas in operation lockers in BF4


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> hmm so were would you guys get it? i have bad luck with electronics lol so im just nervous...


No one is selling just plain gloss anymore.
Either
Green-sum
accessorieswhole
or the other variants. They're all getting their stock from the same distributor (I think)


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> also, this listing is for a glosssy monitor. I thought they were all matt or glass now??
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> what about these guys? there in the us?
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm


Sent an email to green-sum asking for clarification this is what he said.

Dear joshdm_99,

Hello, thank you for your confirmation.

BTW, your order is glossy version it seems to be close to tempered.
The previous glossy version had big problems due to the panel was too weak.
So the manufacture is just producing the glossy panel as the New version as well.
It is called the glossy version and our listing that your order is saying 'glossy' on the sub tittle.
Please check it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140934439651

We are going to provide the tracking number as soon as available through the ebay.
If you have other questions, please let us know it.

Thank you.

- green-sum

I am not sure what he means by "close to tempered." It's either glass or it's not. What does he mean by close? My follow up question was, is it glass? So we shall see what he says.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> Sent an email to green-sum asking for clarification this is what he said.
> 
> Dear joshdm_99,
> 
> Hello, thank you for your confirmation.
> 
> BTW, your order is glossy version it seems to be close to tempered.
> The previous glossy version had big problems due to the panel was too weak.
> So the manufacture is just producing the glossy panel as the New version as well.
> It is called the glossy version and our listing that your order is saying 'glossy' on the sub tittle.
> Please check it.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140934439651
> 
> We are going to provide the tracking number as soon as available through the ebay.
> If you have other questions, please let us know it.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> - green-sum
> 
> I am not sure what he means by "close to tempered." It's either glass or it's not. What does he mean by close? My follow up question was, is it glass? So we shall see what he says.


Most likely you'll be waiting 24 hours from now for another answer. He sucks at responses.


----------



## Joshdm2001

Yeah I know. Just weird.


----------



## LunaP

Alright just ordered a tempered glass glossy, let's see how this pans out lol.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright just ordered a tempered glass glossy, let's see how this pans out lol.


From who?

Mines in long beach, CA btw. (about 10 miles from here)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> From who?
> 
> Mines in long beach, CA btw. (about 10 miles from here)


greensum sadly since he has the fastest shipping dates it seems.


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> also, this listing is for a glosssy monitor. I thought they were all matt or glass now??
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> what about these guys? there in the us?
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm


Ok I think I figured this out. This product is a matte screen with a Piano-black high glossy slim bezel. I won't know for sure until I get it, but this is how overclockmonitor is advertising it in their fine print, and I know green-sum gets his stock from overclockmonitor.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> From who?
> 
> Mines in long beach, CA btw. (about 10 miles from here)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> greensum sadly since he has the fastest shipping dates it seems.
Click to expand...

I think he is fine if you don't need to communicate with him. In which case he is still fine just takes some time.

There is no need for two sli bridges at 60hz right? I don't see why there would be just want to confirm that so I can do my testing as I don't have an extra bridge yet.


----------



## aufkrawall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> I'm actually using a BenQ 144Hz, the gaming is pretty smooth with 0 lag or ghosting, but the colors and blacks are absolutely horrible, hopefully my qnix won't have any lag, but those beautiful inky blacks and vibrant colors will make up for any lag.
> 
> I also hope the contrast ratio is good, so I can see those dark areas in operation lockers in BF4


Hehe, funny. For exactly the same reasons I've ordered a Qnix as well.








With bypass PCb there shouldn't be any lag, I think. Just more motion blur and ghosting.

With 144Hz 1ms TN I can't read any text in motion either, btw. And lightboost even kills IQ further...


----------



## the9quad

Quick question since the 290/290x's don't use crossfire bridges is it possible to trifire now with the pixel patch. I'm finally back from vacation today and picking up my qnix evolution II and 3rd 290x today from the office, I sure hope it's possible.


----------



## snsgn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Failuyr*
> 
> Has anyone taken the internals/panel out and built themselves a slim bezel?


This is really something I would like to do. I didn't even receive my ordered Qnix yet, but I am sure that the bezel is pretty ugly









My first post here btw, waiting for my Qnix









Greetings from the Netherlands.

- snsgn


----------



## Stige

This just arrived









EDIT: 120Hz is fine on desktop, few line artifacts in CSGO, 110Hz is perfect everywhere.

And zero dead/stuck pixels, luckyy?


----------



## snsgn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> 
> 
> This just arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: 120Hz is fine on desktop, few line artifacts in CSGO, 110Hz is perfect everywhere.
> 
> And zero dead/stuck pixels, luckyy?


Cool! That's what I play. Good to hear it works on at least 110hz.

Can't wait to get my Qnix finally. It arrived today at my house when I was gone for just an hour or so. Hope to get lucky tomorrow...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snsgn*
> 
> This is really something I would like to do. I didn't even receive my ordered Qnix yet, but I am sure that the bezel is pretty ugly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first post here btw, waiting for my Qnix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings from the Netherlands.
> 
> - snsgn


Bezel is thin and sexy if you ask me, much thinner than most out there which is nice. Though I plan on debezeling mine once I have 3 of them for 3mm separation








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This just arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: 120Hz is fine on desktop, few line artifacts in CSGO, 110Hz is perfect everywhere.
> 
> And zero dead/stuck pixels, luckyy?


Grats is it gloss or matte? If Gloss does it have the tempered glass?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snsgn*
> 
> Cool! That's what I play. Good to hear it works on at least 110hz.
> 
> Can't wait to get my Qnix finally. It arrived today at my house when I was gone for just an hour or so. Hope to get lucky tomorrow...


Let us know which you ordered.


----------



## mboner1

Updated response from accessorieswhole on the tempered glass glossy or matte situation...

Hi

Thanks for contacting us.
Qnix says it is fifty fifty chance of being either.

If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Updated response from accessorieswhole on the tempered glass glossy or matte situation...
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks for contacting us.
> Qnix says it is fifty fifty chance of being either.
> 
> If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
> Thank you.


That's almost as bad as the response I got from Greensum yesterday after ordering.

"The monitor is *both matte and gloss* please let me know if you have any other questions" lolwut?


----------



## kangarooster

Hi! First time poster here.

Two weeks after receiving my monitor (QNIX) a vertical line appeared on the screen. I have not overclocked neither graphics card or monitor. The line is also noticeable in BIOS (so I guess it can't be driver related). It goes from the bottom of the screen maybe 80 % up. It stops exactly where there is a defect pixel (the red sub pixel is stuck on red) (coincidence?).
Here are some pictures. It was hard to get a good shoot with my SGS2.

http://www.ladda-upp.se/bilder/gbzkaznvnfkohm/
http://www.ladda-upp.se/bilder/uuwrsxzgrjvfmm/
http://www.ladda-upp.se/bilder/opshkvinvhzxw/

The defect pixel is not noticeable.

What could be the problem?


----------



## snsgn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Let us know which you ordered.


Well, actually I ordered one from a seller that I don't see so often in this thread. It's from red-cap and I toke the perfect pixel one.
When I listed all Qnix monitors on ebay as cheapest first, this is the one I got the cheapest with perfect pixel, for $330: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321222997974

I'll let you guys know ofcourse when I got it running if there are any problems







.


----------



## LunaP

I think I figured out my gray lines issue, I believe it may have to do w/ the shielding on the cable, tried another and the screen went berserk, so I'll be picking up a high quality one prior to heading home, if that fixes it I'll just order matte's and remove the film myself since they're cheaper


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> That's almost as bad as the response I got from Greensum yesterday after ordering.
> 
> "The monitor is *both matte and gloss* please let me know if you have any other questions" lolwut?


Yeah, i know right. This is after they already confirmed to me that tempered glass means glossy when i enquired the first time. I found this post on another forum about the mac book, with people having a similar discussion...

"According to Phil Schiller at the Apple MacWorld 2009 keynote, the glass and attached black bezel on the 17" MPB are removed, and replaced with a silver bezel for the matte screen version. The screen under the glass is the same matte screen used in the previous matte MBPs."

I'm tipping if this is what apple does possibly the matte tempered glass version some people have got here are from apple rejects (possibly IPS as well???) And the glossy tempered glass are from samsung maybe?

Or is that too simplistic? lol.


----------



## MeneerVent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snsgn*
> 
> Well, actually I ordered one from a seller that I don't see so often in this thread. It's from red-cap and I toke the perfect pixel one.
> When I listed all Qnix monitors on ebay as cheapest first, this is the one I got the cheapest with perfect pixel, for $330: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321222997974
> 
> I'll let you guys know ofcourse when I got it running if there are any problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Keep about €55,- cash at hand. In my case the postman didn't have change, pay attention to that.
I also live in the netherlands btw.
Oh, and redcap has a bad reputation, that is why nobody really buys from him.


----------



## snsgn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Keep about €55,- cash at hand. In my case the postman didn't have change, pay attention to that.
> I also live in the netherlands btw.
> Oh, and redcap has a bad reputation, that is why nobody really buys from him.


I'll keep that in mind about the cash.

About the reputation. His feedback rating went up from 97,5 to 97,8 since I ordered.
Also, the feedback he gets on the Qnix monitors are all good. People often even mention they didn't had any backlight bleeding or defect pixels.

Still, I'll keep my fingers crossed and I'll inform you guys tomorrow about my Qnix yet to come.


----------



## LunaP

Well I'll know today for sure, as I'll be picking up some DVI-D cables from Fry's on the way home, if it fixes my issue I'll cancel my tempered glass orders and just order Matte's, afterwhich I'll remove the film myself







as I'm unsure if the bezel on the tempered glass models is different.

Either way I plan on debezeling them.


----------



## xGHOSTx

My monitor colors look good, but I noticed a little bit of green hue specially on white backgrounds, so I played a bit with the Nvidia Color Settings under the Nvidia control panel and changed the colors a bit to my liking and now they look better. But when playing games in full screen they change back to default it seems, when I exit the games it goes back to my settings. This may be an Nvidia thing, but I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to keep this settings even when playing games. Haven't tried with Windows custom ICC yet.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Question, how long does it take to get a tracking number and such? I only ordered it yesterday but im just curious. Seller was "Storewithstory".


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Question, how long does it take to get a tracking number and such? I only ordered it yesterday but im just curious. Seller was "Storewithstory".


More than likely it'll ship tonight, or be sent out for shipping, they never really ship the same day you order it seems. So should be in your Ebay listing by tonight hopefully. Does the seller do expedited / EMS? If not then you won't get one and could end up waiting weeks. So be careful when shopping to verify the sellers shipping methods.


----------



## taafe

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=121114422949

Is this the best Korean monitor? If not could someone send me the uk link as where I can find the best 27" 1540x1440 qnix or x-star. Thank you


----------



## Slaughtahouse

"FREE Expedited Int'l Shipping"

I find it strange that they ship from Korea as fast as people say. They must have a facility here in North America, a warehouse or something. Doesn't make sense.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> "FREE Expedited Int'l Shipping"
> 
> I find it strange that they ship from Korea as fast as people say. They must have a facility here in North America, a warehouse or something. Doesn't make sense.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> "FREE Expedited Int'l Shipping"
> 
> I find it strange that they ship from Korea as fast as people say. They must have a facility here in North America, a warehouse or something. Doesn't make sense.


That's what airplanes are for!


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That's what airplanes are for!


Yea... but wouldn't they have to stock pile a bunch on the plain for it to be worth it? That, or the manufacturer has a deal with a warehouse in countries and just ships X amount there ahead of time. So whenever someone orders one, it just goes on a truck etc. I don't know anything about international shipping and how it's done. Just curious.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Bezel is thin and sexy if you ask me, much thinner than most out there which is nice. Though I plan on debezeling mine once I have 3 of them for 3mm separation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grats is it gloss or matte? If Gloss does it have the tempered glass?
> Let us know which you ordered.


Gloss, I wanted Gloss cause of IPS









What is tempered class?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That's what airplanes are for!
> 
> 
> 
> Yea... but wouldn't they have to stock pile a bunch on the plain for it to be worth it? That, or the manufacturer has a deal with a warehouse in countries and just ships X amount there ahead of time. So whenever someone orders one, it just goes on a truck etc. I don't know anything about international shipping and how it's done. Just curious.
Click to expand...

No they always come from Korea this is my second one you can see it right on the tracking. I agree though its weird that its so fast and free. And they all offer it free.

Mine shipped saturday, hit alaska, then kentucky, then southern cal and is on a truck right now out for delivery.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Ahahah what a crazy world we live in


----------



## jgoeders

Ordered a QNIX QX2710 Matte on Thursday from ipsledmonitors.com and received it today. Although they are based in the US, and returns are sent to the US, the monitor shipped directly from Korea

Haven't had much time with it yet - but everything seems fine. Spent a couple minutes on a dead pixel test and couldn't find any problems, and no apparent back light bleed, so I'm quite happy. Haven't tried overclocking yet.

I'm in Canada, and I did have to pay COD (12% tax + 13 fee to DHL)


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGHOSTx*
> 
> My monitor colors look good, but I noticed a little bit of green hue specially on white backgrounds, so I played a bit with the Nvidia Color Settings under the Nvidia control panel and changed the colors a bit to my liking and now they look better. But when playing games in full screen they change back to default it seems, when I exit the games it goes back to my settings. This may be an Nvidia thing, but I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to keep this settings even when playing games. Haven't tried with Windows custom ICC yet.


CPKeeper.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Is installing ICCs any different under Windows 8?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Yea... but wouldn't they have to stock pile a bunch on the plain for it to be worth it? That, or the manufacturer has a deal with a warehouse in countries and just ships X amount there ahead of time. So whenever someone orders one, it just goes on a truck etc. I don't know anything about international shipping and how it's done. Just curious.


It's part of freight shipping, multiple vendors or companies pool into shipment which saves heavily on money, this is for goods that ship out daily as well so it comes down to a fraction of the cost.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Gloss, I wanted Gloss cause of IPS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is tempered class?


If you've ever seen the apple cinema displays its just a piece of glass in front of the screen to protect it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> No they always come from Korea this is my second one you can see it right on the tracking. I agree though its weird that its so fast and free. And they all offer it free.
> 
> Mine shipped saturday, hit alaska, then kentucky, then southern cal and is on a truck right now out for delivery.


Not really weird once you get into it lol, I used to mass order things from Japan and still do, as only 20% of what comes out of Japan anime wise is available on our Ebay/stores







so naturally I looked in on it


----------



## King PWNinater

Will crossfire and SLI configuration improve monitor overclocking?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Will crossfire and SLI configuration improve monitor overclocking?


Shouldn't have any effect, the main thing you should need is a good caliber DVI-D cable. As there are many different types of DVI-D cables and some may be bad and others may have interference, this can cause issues or make it appear that your monitor can't handle 120hz, I tested this last night with a lower end DVI-D cable and the monitor went crazy @ anything above 75hz, so cable quality is definitely something to take into account. 9.9GB/s cables are a great place to start and monoprice has them super cheap.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=4#feedback

Here's a good one w/ reviews w/ the QNIX.

So for those that are getting crappy OC's test with another cable as yours might not be pushing it's limit, theres a lottery with cabling as well.


----------



## lightsout

So just got my monitor. SOunded a little funny when I signed for it. Got it in and the glass is totally shattered, just peaked inside to see glass everywhere. Ugg, hopefully the return process is easy and they don't give me any hassle.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So just got my monitor. SOunded a little funny when I signed for it. Got it in and the glass is totally shattered, just peaked inside to see glass everywhere. Ugg, hopefully the return process is easy and they don't give me any hassle.


Oh god...did the screen look torn up as well? That's horrible


----------



## Ovrclck

So sorry to hear that buddy! Hope the return process goes smooth.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So sorry to hear that buddy! Hope the return process goes smooth.


Buyer protection ftw! This is why we order from Ebay and not reseller websites


----------



## lightsout

Yeah pretty dumb. But oh well things happen.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Buyer protection ftw! This is why we order from Ebay and not reseller websites


What does Ebay do in these situations?


----------



## killswitchh

Wish I knew there was a $23 tax fee for shipping in to U.S. :-(


----------



## King PWNinater

How many hertz will 3 7970s get me on a Qnix?


----------



## Roybattius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killswitchh*
> 
> Wish I knew there was a $23 tax fee for shipping in to U.S. :-(


FedEx tried to pull that crap with me. It's B.S. We have a free trade agreement with S. Korea and should not be paying import duties.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Buyer protection ftw! This is why we order from Ebay and not reseller websites
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does Ebay do in these situations?
Click to expand...

Well they better take care of it if this guy jerks me around. I have opened up a case waiting for the seller to respond.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killswitchh*
> 
> Wish I knew there was a $23 tax fee for shipping in to U.S. :-(


From what site? That ipsled site? If so sounds like they are scamming since it comes from Korea. You shouldn't pay any tax on an ebay sale.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roybattius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *killswitchh*
> 
> Wish I knew there was a $23 tax fee for shipping in to U.S. :-(
> 
> 
> 
> FedEx tried to pull that crap with me. It's B.S. We have a free trade agreement with S. Korea and should not be paying import duties.
Click to expand...

Thats strange UPS didn't say anything.


----------



## killswitchh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roybattius*
> 
> FedEx tried to pull that crap with me. It's B.S. We have a free trade agreement with S. Korea and should not be paying import duties.


Awesome! I just got it in the mail today and looked pretty legit. If you guys didn't pay from that to fedex then I'm not going to lol. Free trade agreement hugh, I'll look into that! Thanks

I got mine form Dream Seller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Just got home to my package of Qnix goodness! Hooked it up and this is the first site I have visited on it!!!! This is incredible! No dead pixels and no noticeable light bleed!







Hell I'm even happy with the color profile (but I'll tweak it a bit).

Ordered on Amazon and got the Pixel Perfect Qnix pls Matte. I am very very happy. We'll see if it overclocks though LOL


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Just got home to my package of Qnix goodness! Hooked it up and this is the first site I have visited on it!!!! This is incredible! No dead pixels and no noticeable light bleed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hell I'm even happy with the color profile (but I'll tweak it a bit).
> 
> Ordered on Amazon and got the Pixel Perfect Qnix pls Matte. I am very very happy. We'll see if it overclocks though LOL


Congrats man!!! Good luck with the overclock. I landed an Xstar and it arrived without any dead pixels, no BLB and overclocked right to 120hz with ease.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So sorry to hear that buddy! Hope the return process goes smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> Buyer protection ftw! This is why we order from Ebay and not reseller websites
Click to expand...

Yes sir!!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Slaughtahouse

I asked them to mark it lower and they responded (rather quickly I might add):

"We normally mark as a gift and declare low value on invoice."

So hopefully I don't get pillaged when the truck comes by asking for money lool


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Congrats man!!! Good luck with the overclock. I landed an Xstar and it arrived without any dead pixels, no BLB and overclocked right to 120hz with ease.


All I can say is I wish I had made this choice so much sooner. I now understand the hype! Just played a couple games real quick and it's just so glorious. Don't even need MSAA anymore!


----------



## pheint

Just got mine delivered today!

Model: Qnix QX2710 Evo II (Matte)

Bought from: Newegg.com $330 + $9 shipping = $339 total

No dead / stuck pixels. No backlight bleed. No panel play. I am excite!



Spoiler: Box Pics


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

I can get up to 110hz but at 120hz I get lines lol. ALL GOOD!!!! I bumped it back down to 96hz and am leaving it there. WOOOOT!


----------



## Mannequinsdenia

OK, so I feel like I've searched everywhere with no good answers, so I'm sorry if This has been asked before.
I bought three of these PLS monitors and I am able to overclock them individually to 120hz with ease, but as soon as I run them in nvidia surround they dont seem to give me any option to clock them any higher. I've tried CRU before and after running them in surround, but they just dont want to leave 60hz. I've tried evga pixel clock overclocking but it freezes the screen, I think it's because it's trying to overclock one dvi cable/one monitor but not the others.
I found this thread and this guy seems to have successfully overclocked all three using CRU before he switches to surround by haveing the 59hz profile still as an option but this doesnt seem to be working for me. The monitors just switch back to 60hz when I enable surround.
http://overlordforum.com/topic/294-how-can-i-overclock-7680x1440/

I also see swolern has successfully overclocked all of his monitors in surround to 96hz in this thread.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1415441/7680x1440-benchmarks-plus-2-3-4-way-sli-gk110-scaling

I feel like I might need a custom monitor ID that tells nvidia drivers these monitors default resolution is 120hz or something of the sort. I really dont know if that even makes sense.

any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mannequinsdenia*
> 
> OK, so I feel like I've searched everywhere with no good answers, so I'm sorry if This has been asked before.
> I bought three of these PLS monitors and I am able to overclock them individually to 120hz with ease, but as soon as I run them in nvidia surround they dont seem to give me any option to clock them any higher. I've tried CRU before and after running them in surround, but they just dont want to leave 60hz. I've tried evga pixel clock overclocking but it freezes the screen, I think it's because it's trying to overclock one dvi cable/one monitor but not the others.
> I found this thread and this guy seems to have successfully overclocked all three using CRU before he switches to surround by haveing the 59hz profile still as an option but this doesnt seem to be working for me. The monitors just switch back to 60hz when I enable surround.
> http://overlordforum.com/topic/294-how-can-i-overclock-7680x1440/
> 
> I also see swolern has successfully overclocked all of his monitors in surround to 96hz in this thread.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1415441/7680x1440-benchmarks-plus-2-3-4-way-sli-gk110-scaling
> 
> I feel like I might need a custom monitor ID that tells nvidia drivers these monitors default resolution is 120hz or something of the sort. I really dont know if that even makes sense.
> 
> any help would be greatly appreciated


When you're in surround, do you have the option to create custom resolutions? Also are you in SLI, if so you should at least have 2 in the DVI-D's and one in the DVI-I's from here if set custom resolution isn't available then try going into the windows properties and clicking on advanced settings for resolution and try setting it for the monitor there?


----------



## Mannequinsdenia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> When you're in surround, do you have the option to create custom resolutions? Also are you in SLI, if so you should at least have 2 in the DVI-D's and one in the DVI-I's from here if set custom resolution isn't available then try going into the windows properties and clicking on advanced settings for resolution and try setting it for the monitor there?


Thanks for the reply.
Yes I have 2 gtx 680's in sli
The create custom resolution is greyed out in Nvidia control panel
I've tried doing it directly from the windows properties too, but it only has 59 and 60hz options in the drop down menu even if I add it in the CRU.


----------



## lightsout

Sounds like a bunch of people got theirs today. Making me jealous with my shattered one sitting here but good for you guys. It's getting me more excited hearing that everyone is loving there's.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mannequinsdenia*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> Yes I have 2 gtx 680's in sli
> The create custom resolution is greyed out in Nvidia control panel
> I've tried doing it directly from the windows properties too, but it only has 59 and 60hz options in the drop down menu even if I add it in the CRU.


Surround with custom resolutions is broken in 331.xx. Install 327.23 or older.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Do you guys have any feedback / experience buying from gn_wholesale? I need feedback please... Thanks.


----------



## LunaP

Alright after some tests and cleaning I believe the polarizer on mine is offset, not from removing the film though since that literally fell off after I was done. This is chance you take though, and I'm seeing this on different threads for other monitors as well. It's faint but I may just send it back to the seller as if he'd know anyways









Might just stick w/ matte, unless these 2 glass panels really knock it out of the park for me, granted if they ever ship lol, with greensums 1 Q a day then respond the next day w/ a Q to hold up shipping.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Am I losing my mind or is my screen "clearer" after raising the refresh rate? Like the text is easier to read LOL


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Am I losing my mind or is my screen "clearer" after raising the refresh rate? Like the text is easier to read LOL


Welcome to our world <3

Also it's funny, no matter how much crap we all go through to get one of these, it's all worth it in the end once everything's solved, because honestly NOTHING beats what these monitors offer









So I've no qualms with sending back and testing different vendors, because in the end I know I"ll be staying w/ these babies for a looooooong time


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

ok so i think im going to get this one.
the xstar is the same as the qnix right? i heard somthing about the stand being able to take off easier?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Welcome to our world <3
> 
> Also it's funny, no matter how much crap we all go through to get one of these, it's all worth it in the end once everything's solved, because honestly NOTHING beats what these monitors offer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I've no qualms with sending back and testing different vendors, because in the end I know I"ll be staying w/ these babies for a looooooong time


I feel the same way as you but this matte possibility underneath is really irritating me lol, i was 99% sure it was glossy until everyone started reporting matte underneath. I can't imagine a pane of glass could make this monitor look the way it does compared to the asus pb278q. It has to be glossy, if i stand above it and look down, i see a reflection of text against the glass, that would be a good indication that it isn't matte wouldn't it??


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If you've ever seen the apple cinema displays its just a piece of glass in front of the screen to protect it.


Don't think there is any, feels like plastic.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I feel the same way as you but this matte possibility underneath is really irritating me lol, i was 99% sure it was glossy until everyone started reporting matte underneath. I can't imagine a pane of glass could make this monitor look the way it does compared to the asus pb278q. It has to be glossy, if i stand above it and look down, i see a reflection of text against the glass, that would be a good indication that it isn't matte wouldn't it??


Mine just shipped so I should have it in a few days I'll let you know then since I plan on taking it apart anyways.


----------



## abt12

Going ahead with this - got convinced to send my 2x 1080p 24" IPS back and pick up one 1440p instead! Doing a QNIX/Xstar.

Does it matter who among the "established sellers" (dream-seller, green-sum, accessorieswhole are the 3 I'm looking at) I buy from? Dream-seller has a pixelperfect one for $318, normal for $300 - the $18 for a bit more peace of mind seems worth it to me. Thoughts?

Pulling the trigger shortly!


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Downloaded a bunch of the ICC profiles on the OP (thank you so much for having them!) and one of them was incredibly spot on! So within a few hours I already have a few of my friends ready to buy one now! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Thanks to everyone that contributes to this thread, it really has been a huge help even though I have only posted in here just now


----------



## libertysky

just got mine.

no dead pixels

light bleeding at top right but i don't care in the least bit. it's very unnoticeable.and the only way i noticed was with a side-by-side comparison with a $700 pro art line ASUS P-IPS monitor

screen real estate is amazing.

colors are perfectly fine to me. after testing the ASUS and Samsung ICC profiles provided, i ended up calibrating it myself. much better now









however, PLS is definitely not as clear as P-IPS. even at 2560x1440, the 1920x1200 P-IPS is sharper.

other than that, 120 Hz rf no problem. It's pretty cool how fluid the mouse cursor moves now. I haven't found much applications for it though as I'm getting a max of 110 fps in LOL and graphics settings isn't the cause for the fps cap as opposed to network latency.

It's definitely a great deal. I'm pleased with this purchase.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *libertysky*
> 
> just got mine.
> 
> no dead pixels
> 
> light bleeding at top right but i don't care in the least bit. it's very unnoticeable.and the only way i noticed was with a side-by-side comparison with a $700 pro art line ASUS P-IPS monitor
> 
> screen real estate is amazing.
> 
> colors are perfectly fine to me. after testing the ASUS and Samsung ICC profiles provided, i ended up calibrating it myself. much better now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> however, PLS is definitely not as clear as P-IPS. even at 2560x1440, the 1920x1200 iP-IPS is sharper.
> 
> other than that, 120 Hz rf no problem. It's pretty cool how fluid the mouse cursor moves now. I haven't found much applications for it though as I'm getting a max of 110 fps in LOL and graphics settings isn't the cause for the fps cap as opposed to network latency.
> 
> It's definitely a great deal. I'm pleased with this purchase.


Is your panel matte or glass? I saw a sharpness increase on mine after removing the matte since the film appears to give a SLIGHT blur.


----------



## libertysky

was that something you need to open the monitor for?

I removed the plastic film over the screen as I figured it was just a screen protector.

after calibrating (the cleartype section) though, it's much better now.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *libertysky*
> 
> was that something you need to open the monitor for?
> 
> I removed the plastic film over the screen as I figured it was just a screen protector.
> 
> after calibrating (the cleartype section) though, it's much better now.


The right side is the matte film. I removed that. You have to open the bezel to remove the film though.


----------



## MGMG8GT

Strange issue for me. Got my new Q-nix -- ordered glossy, got tempered...ugh. 6 stuck pixels as well. Almost no BLB though.

Overclocking to 96hz and when I select 96, desktop clocks ramp up from idle 300 to 500 core on my 7950 and the voltage goes from 0.806 idle to full power. Any way to keep this from happening or maybe a quick way to switch back and forth for gaming?


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGMG8GT*
> 
> Strange issue for me. Got my new Q-nix -- ordered glossy, got tempered...ugh. 6 stuck pixels as well. Almost no BLB though.
> 
> Overclocking to 96hz and when I select 96, desktop clocks ramp up from idle 300 to 500 core on my 7950 and the voltage goes from 0.806 idle to full power. Any way to keep this from happening or maybe a quick way to switch back and forth for gaming?


How can you tell if it's actual glossy or tempered? It does look like glossy, mine that is but it feels like plastic? Shouldn't it be glass or something?


----------



## libertysky

* i forgot to mention i found the stand perfectly fine. it is a bit wobbly compared to other stands, but that's more cuz it's tiny compared to the size of the monitor. quality-wise, it's decent. if i push on my ASUS PA, it will rock back and forth, just a little more stiff.

so that was a +

(X-star 2710)


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Mine just shipped so I should have it in a few days I'll let you know then since I plan on taking it apart anyways.


Sweet man. Let me know what you think it is just by looking at it if you can as well, i would like to think it would be noticeable if it was matte.


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> How can you tell if it's actual glossy or tempered? It does look like glossy, mine that is but it feels like plastic? Shouldn't it be glass or something?


No one knows. These Korean vendors speak in riddles. I asked my vendor if he was shipping me tempered glass and his response was, seems like tempered glass. What does that mean? From reading this thread it looks like some people get glass, some get plastic, some get matte under glass, some don't. It's all a crap shoot and no consistency.


----------



## ebhsimon

I have a small story to tell, but here's some background information on the screen.

Bought from green-sum on eBay for $299 USD ($340 AUD is what I paid).
Bought glossy version because it was $20 cheaper than the matte version which is what I wanted originally.

Overclocked to 115hz, I get scan lines at 120.

SO anyway, after two days of owning this awesome monitor the glass slid down. So from the outside there's the bezel first, then a glass layer, and then the naked screen.
The glass slid down and I could see the double sided sticky tape on the screen!

So I dismantled the monitor (very easy thanks to the guy who had those youtube videos. seriously thank you a lot you saved my ass) and just took out the glass. I put it back together and now because the bare screen is matte, it's basically a matte screen.

Because I had a glossy screen, with the curtains open I could not see **** if I was looking at a dark background (especially when play black light retribution).
Now with the glass removed it's basically the same as my matte samsung BX2450 and I think I've just saved myself $20.

*TLDR; I think the only difference between matte and glossy is a panel of glass.*


----------



## skuko

So i found myself in this situation...
I like my qnix and all, but i'm now facing a dilemma. Since the colors can only be calibrated by software, i'm suffering from nvidias inability to fix the issue of not forcing ICC profiles in fullscreen applications (games) for years now (ofc i only found out the hard way).

So now I face the decision to either switch back to my Dell u2913wm (and lose the vertical res, which i have come to appreciate + gain some input lag - i'm going to test it today when home from work, but i think it's pretty bad on the dell, at least it the game "hard reset"), switch gpu to amd (and lose shadowplay), play in windowed fullscreen (if permitted by the application) and put up with screen tearing, or finally just put up with ****ty colors in games. And you wouldn't believe how crappy for example planetside2 looks without calibrated colors :-(. Any advice guyze?

also, the plastic frame housing has a really big gap in the middle on the lower side. do i have to disassemble to fix this? (or is it fixable only by disassembly and reassembly at all?)


----------



## snowpetrel

for those looking to buy from "storewithstory" (which was the cheapest at least when I was looking) I can only say go for it. I ordered a pixel perfect qnix for 329$ (he had a no bright pixel and max. 2 dead pixels at sides and none in center policy at that time which is better then most others)

He sent me a message asking if it was ok to send a glossy, because it was not specified in the description. After that he kept me up to date about when the packet was sent. It got stuck in the customs department because they said the invoice was missing, but 1 message and 4 hours later I had a new invoice in my mail. After I received the packet it was also clear that an invoice WAS attached, but it was partly in korean and the customs department ignored it so this was for sure not the fautl of storewithstory.

the screen I got had no dead pixels, some backlight bleeding but it is only really noticeable in the bottom right corner. I will try the tape fix later on. it overclocked straight to 96Hz with no problems. 120 Hz I had a few wavering lines, but I only tried it shortly. The only other "disadvantage" is that it is very bright, but with some more research for a good color profile that can be fixed.


----------



## Velathawen

Question about the color profiles you guys are using -

I'm running my monitor at 110hz as I get the red scan lines on occasion if I try to run it at 120, is there any problem with running the other ICC Profiles that are listed at 96/100hz or should I just go through and try to make my own?


----------



## snowpetrel

color profiles are all quite subjective. Find one you like for color sharpness/brightness/... on your screen in your room. As far as I understand all the Hz matters for in the color profiles is that the colors get distorted a bit differently on different framerates. Your colors might be off a bit, but it should work.


----------



## The Storm

Well I just recieved an import duties tax from FedEx today, $20.45. I am located in the USA so I dont understand this, plenty of phone calls will be made today. For reference I ordered an Xstar from dreamseller, and have had the monitor in my possesion for 2 weeks.


----------



## Peedge

Hello everyone.

This is Peedge.

I am likely one of the newest members on this site.

I am awaiting delivery of a QX2710 from green-sum and this seems like the right place to be hanging out.

Its great to meet you all!


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peedge*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> This is Peedge.
> 
> I am likely one of the newest members on this site.
> 
> I am awaiting delivery of a QX2710 from green-sum and this seems like the right place to be hanging out.
> 
> Its great to meet you all!


Good day to you Peedge!!!


----------



## Peedge

So what is the consensus on the tempered glass?
Mine said glossy, but green-sum confirmed it is glossy with tempered glass.

Do I want to remove the glass?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> So i found myself in this situation...
> I like my qnix and all, but i'm now facing a dilemma. Since the colors can only be calibrated by software, i'm suffering from nvidias inability to fix the issue of not forcing ICC profiles in fullscreen applications (games) for years now (ofc i only found out the hard way).
> 
> So now I face the decision to either switch back to my Dell u2913wm (and lose the vertical res, which i have come to appreciate + gain some input lag - i'm going to test it today when home from work, but i think it's pretty bad on the dell, at least it the game "hard reset"), switch gpu to amd (and lose shadowplay), play in windowed fullscreen (if permitted by the application) and put up with screen tearing, or finally just put up with ****ty colors in games. And you wouldn't believe how crappy for example planetside2 looks without calibrated colors :-(. Any advice guyze?
> 
> also, the plastic frame housing has a really big gap in the middle on the lower side. do i have to disassemble to fix this? (or is it fixable only by disassembly and reassembly at all?)


Happens with AMD too. It's a DirectX11 game issue where the gamma ramp is reset by a fullscreen game. Use CPKeeper to force profiles on in fullscreen games. It was just asked a page or two ago.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> So i found myself in this situation...
> I like my qnix and all, but i'm now facing a dilemma. Since the colors can only be calibrated by software, i'm suffering from nvidias inability to fix the issue of not forcing ICC profiles in fullscreen applications (games) for years now (ofc i only found out the hard way).
> 
> So now I face the decision to either switch back to my Dell u2913wm (and lose the vertical res, which i have come to appreciate + gain some input lag - i'm going to test it today when home from work, but i think it's pretty bad on the dell, at least it the game "hard reset"), switch gpu to amd (and lose shadowplay), play in windowed fullscreen (if permitted by the application) and put up with screen tearing, or finally just put up with ****ty colors in games. And you wouldn't believe how crappy for example planetside2 looks without calibrated colors :-(. Any advice guyze?
> 
> also, the plastic frame housing has a really big gap in the middle on the lower side. do i have to disassemble to fix this? (or is it fixable only by disassembly and reassembly at all?)
> 
> 
> 
> Happens with AMD too. It's a DirectX11 game issue where the gamma ramp is reset by a fullscreen game. Use CPKeeper to force profiles on in fullscreen games. It was just asked a page or two ago.
Click to expand...

Cpk doesn't work, art last not with planetside 2....:-(

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> Cpk doesn't work, art last not with planetside 2....:-(
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2


Try MCW or Color Clutch.

Also try Borderless Windowed mode.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Try MCW or Color Clutch.
> 
> Also try Borderless Windowed mode.


MCW doesn't work either, haven't tried color clutch. windowed fullscreen works, but it introduces screen tearing.

edit: color clutch is too much effort, i'm not willing to create a batch file for each and every game i play. also, it can be detected as cheat, because of the DLL injection.


----------



## MGMG8GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> How can you tell if it's actual glossy or tempered? It does look like glossy, mine that is but it feels like plastic? Shouldn't it be glass or something?


Then you have actual glossy. If there is a piece of glass, you have the tempered glass. If you can press on the screen like you would to unstick a pixel, you have glossy or matte depending on what it looks like obviously.

This was the reply from Greensum
Quote:


> Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
> 
> Actually, tempered glass version is also glossy version as it is 'glossy'. The newest LG AH-IPS panel, which LG calls it as glossy, is a panel itself(people usually calls it 'glossy') + anti-glare coating(at this point, a matte panel) + tempered glass (glossy panel again). QNIX's panel is also like that. Hope you understand it.
> 
> Hope the answer above helps you. Please let us know if you have any questions.
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Green-Sum
> 
> - green-sum
> Click "respond" to reply through Messages, or go to your email to reply
> 
> Respond


----------



## elusus

Just wanted to thank everyone that contributed to this thread. Made a decision to order the x-star from dreamseller. Ordered on 11/27 and was delivered on 12/2. Best 279$ I've ever spent! Also got lucky and received one with no dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGMG8GT*
> 
> Then you have actual glossy. If there is a piece of glass, you have the tempered glass. If you can press on the screen like you would to unstick a pixel, you have glossy or matte depending on what it looks like obviously.
> 
> This was the reply from Greensum


I get no distortion even if I press it semi-hard, so just a cover on the screen?


----------



## MGMG8GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I get no distortion even if I press it semi-hard, so just a cover on the screen?


Right. If it's firm, it's glass. If it is soft and you can distort it, it's either matte or glossy without the glass. To a lot of people, it won't matter much either way. I did let green-sum know that the panels are NOT glossy if they just stick a piece of glass on them. That's not correct and he needs to correct the listing -- in my mind I did not get the product I ordered.

Now, does it look bad? No, not to me.


----------



## Ovrclck

Mine was just shipped and I should have it by tomorrow. Order placed on Nov.28, shipped today.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Do you guys have any feedback / experience buying from (ebay) gn_wholesale? He only had 60 feedback at this time but it seems a good seller. I need feedback please... Thanks.


----------



## skuko

this is pretty messed up and should be probably mentioned in the OP.

i do not recommend to buy these korean monitors if you have an nvidia card, unless you don't care about the colors in fullscreen applications.

nvidia drivers have no ability to maintain ICC profiles in fullscreen applications and there are only partially working workarounds, if that.

pretty disappointing to me. not the fault of the monitor itself per se, but i wish i knew about this earlier nevertheless.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/501853/geforce-drivers/nvidia-forever-ignoring-custom-color-profile-support-in-full-screen-games-collaboration-thread-/1


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

So there's CPKeeper, MCW, Powerstrip, and maybe one other proggie for attempting to keep ICC/ ICM profiles while in games. Has anyone had some good success with the latest AAA games? I know it would only pertain to the AMD side since Nvidia doesn't allow this at all.


----------



## skuko

does ATI force ICC profiles in FULLSCREEN applications? i need to know this, because it will decide whether my next GPU will be green or red.

i.e. if you play planetside 2 in fullscreen, not windowed, nor windowed fullscreen, do your colors stay the same as calibrated on desktop, or do they change?

i can see them change on nvidia when i alt tab from the game and click teh game in taskbar, i can see how the colors change before the game maximizes back. it's driving me crazy.

i've tested MCW and CPK. not willing the do the DLL injections for two reasons -

1) too much effort, can't be arsed to create a batch file for every game i play
2) it's a potential "cheat" detection for anti cheat measures in online games due to the fact that it's a DLL memory injection.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

From the research I've been doing it seems all the success has been on the Red team gpu. It absolutely does not work with Nvidia yet. Tonight I plan on trying cpkeeper and mcw and possibly one other. I mainly want my profile to stick in Skyrim, Trine2, and BF4 would be nice hahaha


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Mine was just shipped and I should have it by tomorrow. Order placed on Nov.28, shipped today.


Grats is this your 2nd or 1st one again? lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> this is pretty messed up and should be probably mentioned in the OP.
> 
> i do not recommend to buy these korean monitors if you have an nvidia card, unless you don't care about the colors in fullscreen applications.
> 
> nvidia drivers have no ability to maintain ICC profiles in fullscreen applications and there are only partially working workarounds, if that.
> 
> pretty disappointing to me. not the fault of the monitor itself per se, but i wish i knew about this earlier nevertheless.
> 
> https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/501853/geforce-drivers/nvidia-forever-ignoring-custom-color-profile-support-in-full-screen-games-collaboration-thread-/1


Mine keeps my color profiles when I load games, I don't see it flop back for whatever reason, any chance it might be driver related?


----------



## Fromm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fromm*
> 
> *Delivered Nov-28-13
> Fromm
> X-STAR DP2710
> Matte
> dream-seller
> Stable 110Hz update: Stable 96Hz
> $279.00
> Issues: None*


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats is this your 2nd or 1st one again? lol


1st


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Grats is this your 2nd or 1st one again? lol
> Mine keeps my color profiles when I load games, I don't see it flop back for whatever reason, any chance it might be driver related?


are you sure it doesn't flop back or do you just not see it flop back? your calibration may be close enough to what the screen default is for you not to notice it. can you test by completely miscalibrating the scree into a new ICC profile and test it?

also, which drivers are you using at the moment?


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Well I just recieved an import duties tax from FedEx today, $20.45. I am located in the USA so I dont understand this, plenty of phone calls will be made today. For reference I ordered an Xstar from dreamseller, and have had the monitor in my possesion for 2 weeks.


After seeing your post, I checked my mail and see that I was also charged.

Called Fedex Broker in Anchorage (contact info in bottom left corner of page 4 on my invoice).

Just received call back saying they are going to reclassify it from 8528.59.3370 to 8528.51.0000 and remove charges.

If you have any questions, I can answer after I get some rest.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> are you sure it doesn't flop back or do you just not see it flop back? your calibration may be close enough to what the screen default is for you not to notice it. can you test by completely miscalibrating the scree into a new ICC profile and test it?
> 
> also, which drivers are you using at the moment?


I can swap it up when I get home, 331.82 atm. Though I'm hearing 327.xx are having the least issues atm.


----------



## Vesanius

Just got my Spyder4 Pro today and I got to say that the profiles provided in the first post or on any other site were nowhere near the correct colors for me and they were all too yellow or blue for my screen and room lightning. So I decided to share my profile here in case someone else feels the same.

Qnix QX2710 @ 96Hz, 6500k white point, 120cd/m2, 2.2 gamma and 11 clicks brightness from the minimum. Matte monitor. The room lightning is quite dim.

QNIXQX2710-96hz.zip 2k .zip file


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

So newegg sells the qnix for 345$
The seller 27 monitors is covered by neweggs warenty. 30 day return and 90 day warenty. I taked to newegg and they said even though its a marketplace seller, they stock the monitor and handle returns. So since its handled by newegg here in the states should i go that route or ebay?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> So newegg sells the qnix for 345$
> The seller 27 monitors is covered by neweggs warenty. 30 day return and 90 day warenty. I taked to newegg and they said even though its a marketplace seller, they stock the monitor and handle returns. So since its handled by newegg here in the states should i go that route or ebay?


WUT that means next day delivery is POSSIBURU!!!!! FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Hahah wow ^ still dosnt naswer my question lol. Because i can get a ebay one for less


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Hahah wow ^ still dosnt naswer my question lol. Because i can get a ebay one for less


Ebay you're protected no matter what, but you have to pay for return shipping from what I'm told = $$
NewEgg still good protection policy, swift delivery, I just like the notion of knowing I'll have it tomorrow vs end of the week or sometime next week then waiting days for responses to get it returned.

short answer if you're really worried go ebay. 100% protection.
In a rush? New Egg


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Ya thats why, return shipping to southkorea would cost alot$


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> WUT that means next day delivery is POSSIBURU!!!!! FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF




go Ebay.
It's still coming from Korea lol

Plus, you're paying tax too. Ebay, no tax


----------



## snsgn

Well guys, I got my Qnix today!

No dead pixels (perfect pixel), little bit of backlight bleeding at the bottom right and bottom left.

There's one thing that concerns me. I've got a vertical faded line @ 1/3 of the screen from the left. Anyone had this problem yet?
I will try to make a photo of it, if you guys don't get it









Also the stand is horrible, but that's OK. I just ordered this stand today.


----------



## Ovrclck

Dude, Already in California?









Ontario, CA, United States 12/03/2013 10:11 A.M.Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Released by Clearing Agency. Now in-transit
12/03/2013 10:05 A.M.Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Shipment submitted to Clearing Agency, awaiting final release.
Incheon, Korea, Republic of 12/03/2013 10:55 P.M.Departure Scan
12/03/2013 7:38 P.M.Export Scan
12/03/2013 6:30 P.M.Arrival Scan
Seoul, Korea, Republic of 12/03/2013 6:25 P.M.Departure Scan
Incheon, Korea, Republic of 12/03/2013 6:05 P.M.Arrival Scan
Seoul, Korea, Republic of 12/03/2013 6:00 P.M.Departure Scan
12/03/2013 5:46 P.M.Origin Scan
12/03/2013 11:12 A.M.Pickup Scan
Korea, Republic of 11/28/2013 9:05 P.M.Order Processed: Ready for UPS


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> 
> 
> go Ebay.
> It's still coming from Korea lol
> 
> Plus, you're paying tax too. Ebay, no tax


Ya well i dont pay tax because im not in ca, also they (newegg) have stock in there wherehouse here in the us. So technically they get shipped from the us.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> 
> 
> go Ebay.
> It's still coming from Korea lol
> 
> Plus, you're paying tax too. Ebay, no tax
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya well i dont pay tax because im not in ca, also they (newegg) have stock in there wherehouse here in the us. So technically they get shipped from the us.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, forgot about that. Oops. ^_^

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Dude, Already in California?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ontario, CA, United States 12/03/2013 10:11 A.M.Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Released by Clearing Agency. Now in-transit
> 12/03/2013 10:05 A.M.Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Shipment submitted to Clearing Agency, awaiting final release.
> Incheon, Korea, Republic of 12/03/2013 10:55 P.M.Departure Scan
> 12/03/2013 7:38 P.M.Export Scan
> 12/03/2013 6:30 P.M.Arrival Scan
> Seoul, Korea, Republic of 12/03/2013 6:25 P.M.Departure Scan
> Incheon, Korea, Republic of 12/03/2013 6:05 P.M.Arrival Scan
> Seoul, Korea, Republic of 12/03/2013 6:00 P.M.Departure Scan
> 12/03/2013 5:46 P.M.Origin Scan
> 12/03/2013 11:12 A.M.Pickup Scan
> Korea, Republic of 11/28/2013 9:05 P.M.Order Processed: Ready for UPS


The EMS Tracking numbers they gave me return "NOT FOUND"
Only thing that works are the UPS numbers which I which they'd use a different service. UPS breaks more packages than any other provider. Mine's only showing the label was received but was supposedly shipped more than 48 hours ago lol. This is from Greensum.


----------



## Traverser

Well I've owned my Qnix for about a month now and have been very happy. No dead pixels, and very minimal back light bleed.

So not sure if anyone has mentioned (at over 1k pages this thread is way to long to go through) and what I originally found. That with a single 670 I was only able to overclock the monitor to a stable 110hz. I than added another 670 for sli and was able to get to a stable 120hz with the DVI cable that came with the monitor. I have since switched out my Asus GeneV to a Gigabyte UD5H and was still stable at 120hz. Haven't tried higher yet since my set up is only able to keep BF4 frames average around 120 on the lowest graphic settings in multi player.

The monitor and game still look fantastic, though I could be awhile since I tried any higher setting at 60hz.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Just ordered my QNIX... Was going to order right from ebay, but was having a nervous break down thinking about different things that would go wrong.. So I ended up ordering through amazon for 30 bucks more (peace of mind i have now)... Looks like it might be even faster shipping from amazon too, plus its free.. saying it should be on my doorstep in 3 days time, or even less 0_0... So as long as it comes undamaged and has the dvi d adabtor ill be all set to go..







Is there a link to show an easy way to overclock the monitor with amd cards... I have my 6950 in my box right now, thats untill my new rmaed 290x comes back.. Or if im lucky my money refunds.. :| Anyways i wanna do at least a 96khz oc, i think that should be more then enough..


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snowpetrel*
> 
> for those looking to buy from "storewithstory" (which was the cheapest at least when I was looking) I can only say go for it. I ordered a pixel perfect qnix for 329$ (he had a no bright pixel and max. 2 dead pixels at sides and none in center policy at that time which is better then most others)
> 
> He sent me a message asking if it was ok to send a glossy, because it was not specified in the description. After that he kept me up to date about when the packet was sent. It got stuck in the customs department because they said the invoice was missing, but 1 message and 4 hours later I had a new invoice in my mail. After I received the packet it was also clear that an invoice WAS attached, but it was partly in korean and the customs department ignored it so this was for sure not the fautl of storewithstory.
> 
> the screen I got had no dead pixels, some backlight bleeding but it is only really noticeable in the bottom right corner. I will try the tape fix later on. it overclocked straight to 96Hz with no problems. 120 Hz I had a few wavering lines, but I only tried it shortly. The only other "disadvantage" is that it is very bright, but with some more research for a good color profile that can be fixed.


Thanks for that! It's quite reassuring. It still seems all to weird that these type of monitors exist. I still haven't recieved a tracking number but I have received an email from 'storewithstory' that they were in the process of shipping it on Dec 2. I'm dying in anticipation here... I keep spaming F5 on my Ebay order page to see if it changes. Man, I need to take some chill pills!

+rep for the great feedback.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> MCW doesn't work either, haven't tried color clutch. windowed fullscreen works, but it introduces screen tearing.
> 
> edit: color clutch is too much effort, i'm not willing to create a batch file for each and every game i play. also, it can be detected as cheat, because of the DLL injection.


MCW does work. How come people don't know how to use this?? It's really simple.


----------



## Traverser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Just ordered my QNIX... Was going to order right from ebay, but was having a nervous break down thinking about different things that would go wrong.. So I ended up ordering through amazon for 30 bucks more (peace of mind i have now)... Looks like it might be even faster shipping from amazon too, plus its free.. saying it should be on my doorstep in 3 days time, or even less 0_0... So as long as it comes undamaged and has the dvi d adabtor ill be all set to go..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a link to show an easy way to overclock the monitor with amd cards... I have my 6950 in my box right now, thats untill my new rmaed 290x comes back.. Or if im lucky my money refunds.. :| Anyways i wanna do at least a 96khz oc, i think that should be more then enough..


I went the Amazon way too. FYI mine came from BizBuy International.


----------



## LunaP

Curious there was someone earlier that broke their 278Q when attempting to remove the film, wondering if you're still around and still have the monitor as I had a question.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Curious there was someone earlier that broke their 278Q when attempting to remove the film, wondering if you're still around and still have the monitor as I had a question.


Did yours arrive?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Did yours arrive?


Nope, no clue where it is either, both shipping labels that were generated 2 days ago are invalid, and the UPS labels generated the day after are blank and awaiting info.


----------



## Mp0wer

Mine will be here tomorrow, they shipped it out this morning, and it's scheduled to be here tomorrow, that's like overnight shipping....









But it's ups, I hope it's not in pieces when I get it









Ordered from http://www.overclockmonitor.com


----------



## Stige

Burnin...

Had no idea these monitors have burnin aswell.


----------



## Traverser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Burnin...
> 
> Had no idea these monitors have burnin aswell.


I don't use Sleep mode or have the monitor turn off after a give time at idle, and after leaving the computer on for over a weekend. Didn't notice burn in, so I'll check when I get home tonight.


----------



## lightsout

Woke up to know reply from worldsbest about my shattered monitor. Was hoping he would respond last night. I guess I get to wait another day to see if he replies. Do you guys think I am going to have to pay return shipping for a monitor UPS broke? I better not thats ridiculous all the way back to Korea. If they give me a hard time I may open it and see if its all good besides the broken glass. Maybe just take the glass out and run it like that.

Anyone know of a guide for removing the glass? I'm curious about the space that would be left where the glass was. Wouldn't really like a gap all away around the panel. Anyone removed the glass on theres?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Woke up to know reply from worldsbest about my shattered monitor. Was hoping he would respond last night. I guess I get to wait another day to see if he replies. Do you guys think I am going to have to pay return shipping for a monitor UPS broke? I better not thats ridiculous all the way back to Korea. If they give me a hard time I may open it and see if its all good besides the broken glass. Maybe just take the glass out and run it like that.
> 
> Anyone know of a guide for removing the glass? I'm curious about the space that would be left where the glass was. Wouldn't really like a gap all away around the panel. Anyone removed the glass on theres?


If you didn't start a case I would just to have it on file, they respond SUPER quick when those are open.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> MCW does work. How come people don't know how to use this?? It's really simple.


no, MCW does NOT work on nvidia cards. if you know something i and the other people on nvidia forums don't, how about explaining instead of being a smart ass?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Woke up to know reply from worldsbest about my shattered monitor. Was hoping he would respond last night. I guess I get to wait another day to see if he replies. Do you guys think I am going to have to pay return shipping for a monitor UPS broke? I better not thats ridiculous all the way back to Korea. If they give me a hard time I may open it and see if its all good besides the broken glass. Maybe just take the glass out and run it like that.
> 
> Anyone know of a guide for removing the glass? I'm curious about the space that would be left where the glass was. Wouldn't really like a gap all away around the panel. Anyone removed the glass on theres?


You just wrote the guide
A. Order said monitor from worldsbest
2. UPS glass removal service - free of charge
3. Blow glass shards with air can or datavac
4. Profit??










Kidding though. I hope you can get a replacement before x-mas


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Traverser*
> 
> I went the Amazon way too. FYI mine came from BizBuy International.


I got myn from MNW GLOBAL... Looked like they send it faster then the others..


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Woke up to know reply from worldsbest about my shattered monitor. Was hoping he would respond last night. I guess I get to wait another day to see if he replies. Do you guys think I am going to have to pay return shipping for a monitor UPS broke? I better not thats ridiculous all the way back to Korea. If they give me a hard time I may open it and see if its all good besides the broken glass. Maybe just take the glass out and run it like that.
> 
> Anyone know of a guide for removing the glass? I'm curious about the space that would be left where the glass was. Wouldn't really like a gap all away around the panel. Anyone removed the glass on theres?
> 
> 
> 
> If you didn't start a case I would just to have it on file, they respond SUPER quick when those are open.
Click to expand...

No I did right away. It says to give him to friday to respond.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Woke up to know reply from worldsbest about my shattered monitor. Was hoping he would respond last night. I guess I get to wait another day to see if he replies. Do you guys think I am going to have to pay return shipping for a monitor UPS broke? I better not thats ridiculous all the way back to Korea. If they give me a hard time I may open it and see if its all good besides the broken glass. Maybe just take the glass out and run it like that.
> 
> Anyone know of a guide for removing the glass? I'm curious about the space that would be left where the glass was. Wouldn't really like a gap all away around the panel. Anyone removed the glass on theres?
> 
> 
> 
> You just wrote the guide
> A. Order said monitor from worldsbest
> 2. UPS glass removal service - free of charge
> 3. Blow glass shards with air can or datavac
> 4. Profit??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kidding though. I hope you can get a replacement before x-mas
Click to expand...

Lol pretty much man. I am tempted to pull it out but want to hear what he has to say.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> no, MCW does NOT work on nvidia cards. if you know something i and the other people on nvidia forums don't, how about explaining instead of being a smart ass?


Not being a smartass and it does work with nvidia cards.

You need to add the icc profile into Local disk C, windows,system32,spool,drivers,color. Then go to start and type in "color management" and make sure you have ticked the box that says "use my settings for this device". Then click add and add the profile you are trying to use. Restart the computer, open mcw, give windows a couple of minutes and it should , you can tell in mcw that the icc profile is loaded because the curve will be different from the default curve ie; not straight and with a tiny bit of color. Once it's loaded name the profile in mcw and click save, then select it in mcw from the drop down box and click "force persistent profile" and load it. All done. Let me know how you go.


----------



## King PWNinater

Will two 7970s get me a better Monitor overclock than one 7970?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Woke up to know reply from worldsbest about my shattered monitor. Was hoping he would respond last night. I guess I get to wait another day to see if he replies. Do you guys think I am going to have to pay return shipping for a monitor UPS broke? I better not thats ridiculous all the way back to Korea. If they give me a hard time I may open it and see if its all good besides the broken glass. Maybe just take the glass out and run it like that.


Is the seller from ebay? I found this on ebay page maybe it would help.

http://pages.ebay.com/coverage/index.html


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Not being a smartass and it does work with nvidia cards.
> 
> You need to add the icc profile into Local disk C, windows,system32,spool,drivers,color. Then go to start and type in "color management" and make sure you have ticked the box that says "use my settings for this device". Then click add and add the profile you are trying to use. Restart the computer, open mcw, give windows a couple of minutes and it should , you can tell in mcw that the icc profile is loaded because the curve will be different from the default curve ie; not straight and with a tiny bit of color. Once it's loaded name the profile in mcw and click save, then select it in mcw from the drop down box and click "force persistent profile" and load it. All done. Let me know how you go.


mcw? What is it, and Where do you get it?


----------



## snsgn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snsgn*
> 
> Well guys, I got my Qnix today!
> 
> No dead pixels (perfect pixel), little bit of backlight bleeding at the bottom right and bottom left.
> 
> There's one thing that concerns me. I've got a vertical faded line @ 1/3 of the screen from the left. Anyone had this problem yet?
> I will try to make a photo of it, if you guys don't get it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the stand is horrible, but that's OK. I just ordered this stand today.


Read the above ^

This is what I meant:


Weird line at the left. Anyone knows if it can be fixed and how?

(Lol @ crooked monitor stand...)

EDIT: the gradient is just the wallpaper. It's not the monitor that fades the colour to something darker at the sides.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> mcw? What is it, and Where do you get it?


Monitor calibration wizard. And you get it here







....

http://www.hex2bit.com/products/product_mcw.asp


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snsgn*
> 
> Read the above ^
> 
> This is what I meant:
> 
> 
> Weird line at the left. Anyone knows if it can be fixed and how?
> 
> (Lol @ crooked monitor stand...)
> 
> EDIT: the gradient is just the wallpaper. It's not the monitor that fades the colour to something darker at the sides.


Someone else posted an issue like this about 2-3 days ago. But there line is on the right side. I don't know if there is a solution or not, I just know that you're not alone.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Woke up to know reply from worldsbest about my shattered monitor. Was hoping he would respond last night. I guess I get to wait another day to see if he replies. Do you guys think I am going to have to pay return shipping for a monitor UPS broke? I better not thats ridiculous all the way back to Korea. If they give me a hard time I may open it and see if its all good besides the broken glass. Maybe just take the glass out and run it like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Is the seller from ebay? I found this on ebay page maybe it would help.
> 
> http://pages.ebay.com/coverage/index.html
Click to expand...

Thanks, +rep


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Finally got some tracking information. Never heard of DHL though.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



7 Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 12:58

6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 22:22

5 Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 20:30

4 Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 19:33

3 Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 18:58

2 Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 18:55

1 Shipment picked up SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 16:08



Hopefully it's not a dud *crosses fingers*


----------



## dante`afk

Does anyone know how to run permanently successfully 120hz on a Qnix if you use 2 screens (extended) ?

With Framelimiter on 120/121, I don`t really feel like to screen to be running on 120hz. Even though the FPS says 121.

With Vsync and framelimiter off, what happens is, sometimes it is running on 120hz, sometimes if i alt tab into the second screen and back, it stays at 60hz (60fps) So I have to alt tab multiple times out and back in to see the 120hz (120fps) again. In addition I can just feel how the screen is much smoother compared to running with the framelimiter (suggesting it is not running there with 120hz)

Is there anything I can do, despite to switch off the second screen and stay only on one when gaming?

What I forgot to add is, I am playing all games in window mode fullscreen, might this be A reason too? The Majority of the games run on 120hz if played in fullscreen, but not on window mode.

I mean, a proper not overclocked 120hz would be able to run 120hz also in window mode, right?

I guess the culprit is the second screen, because if I disable it, games run as smooth with the framelimiter as if I`d have it disabled and only running it with vsync......

Well, guess for 2x Qnix then?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Finally got some tracking information. Never heard of DHL though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 7Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA12:58
> 
> 6Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)22:22
> 
> 5Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)20:30
> 
> 4Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)19:33
> 
> 3Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)18:58
> 
> 2Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)18:55
> 
> 1Shipment picked up SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)16:08
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it's not a dud *crosses fingers*


DHL is the absolute worst. Even worse than FedEx, in my opinion. I hope nothing bad happens to your monitor.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> DHL is the absolute worst. Even worse than FedEx, in my opinion. I hope nothing bad happens to your monitor.


LOL

grreeeat


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> LOL
> 
> grreeeat


Don't worry haha, that is only my experience. Nothing should happen. If something does, eBay Buyer Protection.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> Mine will be here tomorrow, they shipped it out this morning, and it's scheduled to be here tomorrow, that's like overnight shipping....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's ups, I hope it's not in pieces when I get it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered from http://www.overclockmonitor.com


let us know how it goes...


----------



## timaishu

Anyone have issues with a random flicker when changing webpages? This only happens to me when the monitor is overclocked. Currently at 96hz. Its not everytime, just sometimes. I will open a new page, or close a window and screen will kind of flicker with horizontal lines/tearing, then its back to normal just as quick as it happened. Never has happened in game or when sitting looking at one window.


----------



## Joeking78

Well after waiting 10 days for my Qnix to ship from Korea (EMS lost it briefly in Hong Kong) I just received a call from the post office to say a package just arrived for me...hoping its the Qnix and not some random thing I ordered and forgot about.

BTW Excellentcastle (lol) the Ebay seller was excellent with his help in tracking down my lost monitor, very good seller.


----------



## StarFrost

Hi guys, I have a problem and I'm hoping someone can help.

Whenever I overclock my qnix to 120hz that I got a few days ago, the screen gets darker in the top right and has these dark gradation lines that you can see in the picture on the right side, and the top left gets a little bit brighter as you can see in the picture. At 60hz the colors are completely solid throughout as they should be.

*60hz:*


*120hz:*


----------



## lightsout

worldsbest got back to me about my broken screen. Sending him a video of the damage.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> worldsbest got back to me about my broken screen. Sending him a video of the damage.


Good luck man.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Not being a smartass and it does work with nvidia cards.
> 
> You need to add the icc profile into Local disk C, windows,system32,spool,drivers,color. Then go to start and type in "color management" and make sure you have ticked the box that says "use my settings for this device". Then click add and add the profile you are trying to use. *Restart the computer, open mcw, give windows a couple of minutes and it should ,* you can tell in mcw that the icc profile is loaded because the curve will be different from the default curve ie; not straight and with a tiny bit of color. Once it's loaded name the profile in mcw and click save, then select it in mcw from the drop down box and click "force persistent profile" and load it. All done. Let me know how you go.


sorry for being overly nervous mate, no offense.

i have not tested your guide yet due to being at work, but will do when i come home. i have however used MCW before and there's something that doesn't add up from your guide.

are you saying that MCW should magically pick up the ICC profile by itself? as far as i know, you have to calibrate the screen with MCW in order to get a profile created, which you then can save and have persistent. please correct me, if i'm wrong.

in the past, i have used the MCW in the following way:

1. install
2. run, calibrate display
3. save the profile and select it from the pulldown menu, check persistent and load at windows start.

it works on desktop, but gets ignored in a FULLSCREEN game, i.e. planetside 2, guild wars 2. if you have said games, you can easily check this by toggling windowed fullscreen and fullscreen in the game options. windowed fullscreen keeps the ICC/MCW profile (but introduces screen tearing, thus making it unusable for me), but the fullscreen ignores the profile. it is clearly noticeable in the color shift when toggling the game options between windowed fullscreen and fullscreen.

hope i made my point clear. anyhow, i will test your guide point by point tonight, even though i highly doubt that MCW will pick up the ICC profile by itself, just by "waiting a couple of minutes".

edit: i have bolded the part in your quote that doesn't make sense to me. it should what? pick the profile up by itself?


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StarFrost*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem and I'm hoping someone can help.
> 
> Whenever I overclock my qnix to 120hz that I got a few days ago, the screen gets darker in the top right and has these dark gradation lines that you can see in the picture on the right side, and the top left gets a little bit brighter as you can see in the picture. At 60hz the colors are completely solid throughout as they should be.
> 
> *60hz:*
> 
> 
> *120hz:*


AFAIK it's a normal gamma shift due to the higher frequency going through the board. you can try to alleviate this by manually adjusting the timings in CRU/NVCP.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> sorry for being overly nervous mate, no offense.
> 
> i have not tested your guide yet due to being at work, but will do when i come home. i have however used MCW before and there's something that doesn't add up from your guide.
> 
> are you saying that MCW should magically pick up the ICC profile by itself? as far as i know, you have to calibrate the screen with MCW in order to get a profile created, which you then can save and have persistent. please correct me, if i'm wrong.
> 
> in the past, i have used the MCW in the following way:
> 
> 1. install
> 2. run, calibrate display
> 3. save the profile and select it from the pulldown menu, check persistent and load at windows start.
> 
> it works on desktop, but gets ignored in a FULLSCREEN game, i.e. planetside 2, guild wars 2. if you have said games, you can easily check this by toggling windowed fullscreen and fullscreen in the game options. windowed fullscreen keeps the ICC/MCW profile (but introduces screen tearing, thus making it unusable for me), but the fullscreen ignores the profile. it is clearly noticeable in the color shift when toggling the game options between windowed fullscreen and fullscreen.
> 
> hope i made my point clear. anyhow, i will test your guide point by point tonight, even though i highly doubt that MCW will pick up the ICC profile by itself, just by "waiting a couple of minutes".
> 
> edit: i have bolded the part in your quote that doesn't make sense to me. it should what? pick the profile up by itself?


Well i'm pretty sure that windows loads the icc profile and not any other program, i'm just saying you will notice it has loaded in MCW by the change in the curve which you will be aware of as you have obviously used it before. Personally i have a spyder elite and that loads the profile for me at start up and i just use mcw to force it cos like you said in some games it gets disabled, but i know that windows loads it if you put the icc profile where i said and make sure it's added in color management.

https://help.gnome.org/users/gnome-color-manager/stable/color-import-windows.html.en

Basically says what i said earlier under windows 7. All that's left then is to name it and save it in mcw then make sure you click force persistent profile and load it in mcw. That will force it on for any games that try and change it.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Well i'm pretty sure that windows loads the icc profile and not any other program, i'm just saying you will notice it has loaded in MCW by the change in the curve which you will be aware of as you have obviously used it before. Personally i have a spyder elite and that loads the profile for me at start up and i just use mcw to force it cos like you said in some games it gets disabled, but i know that windows loads it if you put the icc profile where i said and make sure it's added in color management.
> 
> https://help.gnome.org/users/gnome-color-manager/stable/color-import-windows.html.en
> 
> Basically says what i said earlier under windows 7. All that's left then is to name it and save it in mcw then make sure you click force persistent profile and load it in mcw. That will force it on for any games that try and change it.


right. except it doesn't. if i go by your system specs, then i can assume you have an ATI card, which explains why you say it works. it works for ATI cards, because the driver properly forces the ICC profile, in which case you don't even need MCW, just install the desired ICC profile and let the driver do the work.

in my case (Gigabyte GTX680) and all other nvidia cases for that matter, the driver doesn't do this and no tool will reliably help you. see this thread.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/501853/nvidia-forever-ignoring-custom-color-profile-support-in-full-screen-games-collaboration-thread-/

please take your time and read at least through the OP. this is a nvidia specific problem and this is why i was asking for confirmation from ATI users if this works without problems, as i am deciding whether i should go red or green with my next card









edit: as a matter of fact, the same topic was posted here








http://www.overclock.net/t/1107875/nvidia-forever-ignoring-custom-color-profile-support-in-full-screen-games


----------



## taafe

Hey all please could someone advise me on the best Korean 1440p monitor available in the uk? Ive been on ebay and noticed that there are quite a few ive decided to go with the glossy though as I live in a man cave so there shouldn't be no light issues. Honestly though I am nervous about buying just hope I dont get a crap one or something so just looking for the best and should I buy direct or ebay? Thanks


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> right. except it doesn't. if i go by your system specs, then i can assume you have an ATI card, which explains why you say it works. it works for ATI cards, because the driver properly forces the ICC profile, in which case you don't even need MCW, just install the desired ICC profile and let the driver do the work.
> 
> in my case (Gigabyte GTX680) and all other nvidia cases for that matter, the driver doesn't do this and no tool will reliably help you. see this thread.
> 
> https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/501853/nvidia-forever-ignoring-custom-color-profile-support-in-full-screen-games-collaboration-thread-/
> 
> please take your time and read at least through the OP. this is a nvidia specific problem and this is why i was asking for confirmation from ATI users if this works without problems, as i am deciding whether i should go red or green with my next card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: as a matter of fact, the same topic was posted here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1107875/nvidia-forever-ignoring-custom-color-profile-support-in-full-screen-games


I'm not 100% certain but i think i used ICC profiles with a 670 i had.

I thought you were able to load the profile and it worked in windowed mode but had trouble KEEPING icc profiles active in full screen?? If so mcw should fix that.

That thread on OCN about mcw saying it only works for very few games is incorrect i believe. In my time using it i have only seen 1 game that reverts back to defaults and that is need for speed most wanted. Rage also tries to but mcw overrides it. I really do believe it should work with nvidia cards if you place the icc profile correctly and add it in windows properly and then name and save it in mcw and force persistent profile. and finaly load it. Please let me know if it works once you have tried it.


----------



## Joeking78

It's arrived









Zero dead pixels according to the sticker but I've yet to test it, trying to find a computer at work with a DVI input. No transit damage, looks great.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I'm not 100% certain but i think i used ICC profiles with a 670 i had.
> 
> I thought you were able to load the profile and it worked in windowed mode but had trouble KEEPING icc profiles active in full screen?? If so mcw should fix that.
> 
> That thread on OCN about mcw saying it only works for very few games is incorrect i believe. In my time using it i have only seen 1 game that reverts back to defaults and that is need for speed most wanted. Rage also tries to but mcw overrides it. I really do believe it should work with nvidia cards if you place the icc profile correctly and add it in windows properly and then name and save it in mcw and force persistent profile. and finaly load it. Please let me know if it works once you have tried it.


it's not been working with your 670 and here's why:
Quote:


> 1) Direct Hardware-level force (ATI ONLY) If you are an ATI user, there is a very easy fix for this. Use PowerStrip, load up the color profile, and enable the setting "Write directly to palette DAC". This setting under PowerStrip allows it to bypass the driver/OS altogether and write directly to the hardware. An effective method to force calibrated colors in fullscreen games. However, Nvidia has locked out this ability. EnTech, the developer behind PowerStrip explains:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Write directly to palette DAC" is an EnTech expression that predates NVidia, and essentially refers to going around the OS and the display driver, and writing directly to the hardware. NVidia does not approve of this method, and starting with the Geforce8 no longer shares hardware register data with EnTech.
Click to expand...

MCW method on nvidia cards only works for a few games and most of them are openGL (including RAGE, which you mentioned). however, the vast majority of games are direct3d, a.k.a. DX and this method does not work with most of them. i mentioned planetside 2 and guildwars 2, which i tested yesterday.

official response from nvidia does not give any reason to be optimistic about a proper fix to this issue.
Quote:


> This problem can be universally fixed for all software if the problem was addressed on the driver/video level. Unfortunately, Nvidia has been shrugging the problem off as if it is not a big deal:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Nvidia
> Thank you for the update and I apologize for the confusion.
> 
> After the doing further research, I found that NVIDIA does not control or have any function to control the color settings while playing games in full screen mode. Since, these features are application specific it is controlled via the applications. Therefore, please use the games setup if applicable.
Click to expand...

all of the above leads me to the recommendation not to buy korean screens if you are an avid nvidia fan, as they cannot be calibrated on a hardware level and there's no way to force the software calibration in fullscreen games.

i am kinda puzzled by the fact that people aren't screaming in rage about this







the foremost reason for buying these screens if the fact that you get the best of both worlds, right? 120Hz and accurate colors (well, not so accurate in case of nvidia users).....


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> it's not been working with your 670 and here's why:
> MCW method on nvidia cards only works for a few games and most of them are openGL (including RAGE, which you mentioned). however, the vast majority of games are direct3d, a.k.a. DX and this method does not work with most of them. i mentioned planetside 2 and guildwars 2, which i tested yesterday.
> 
> official response from nvidia does not give any reason to be optimistic about a proper fix to this issue.
> all of the above leads me to the recommendation not to buy korean screens if you are an avid nvidia fan, as they cannot be calibrated on a hardware level and there's no way to force the software calibration in fullscreen games.
> 
> i am kinda puzzled by the fact that people aren't screaming in rage about this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the foremost reason for buying these screens if the fact that you get the best of both worlds, right? 120Hz and accurate colors (well, not so accurate in case of nvidia users).....


Well i would have expected more noise from nvidia users about it as well if it weren't working. Have you tried it yourself the way i said?


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Well i would have expected more noise from nvidia users about it as well if it weren't working. Have you tried it yourself the way i said?


i would have too. no i haven't tested it the way you said yet, i'm at work still, doing my research into the issue









i have however used and calibrated the screen with MCW in the past week and have been using a persistent profile created by MCW itself, sadly to no avail. i'm quite confident that i have used it correctly and it leads me to think that what you suggested will not work either, but i will give it a try later, it's only a couple of minutes, after all.

my guess is that nvidia users aren't up in arms about this for several reasons.

1.) they have zero idea about proper colors and they don't care (i.e. using TN panel monitors for gaming).
2.) they use screens with HW color options (i.e. monitors with OSD, which alleviates the problem - i can say i haven't been awre of this issue as up until a short time ago, i have been using exclusively DELL monitors with OSD and all that shebang and i haven't even used ICC profiles, i just set the colors up with the monitor OSD and i guess the majority of users do it like that as well)

so i guess it's either lack of knowledge or ignorance, or both (at least i didn't care up until now)


----------



## Prospector

Hi guys,I wanted ask what additional fees someone has to pay,if he order the Qnix to come in UK?? Which delivery service would be the best to choose so that to pay the minimum amount of additional fees or taxes,for the monitor monitor to arrive at UK? Sorry for my english.


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prospector*
> 
> Hi guys,I wanted ask what additional fees someone has to pay,if he order the Qnix to come in UK?? Which delivery service would be the best to choose so that to pay the minimum amount of additional fees or taxes,for the monitor monitor to arrive at UK? Sorry for my english.


Depends on which Ebay seller you chose I reckon...I went with Excellentcastle and he charged me 10 pounds shipping which is a good deal and it got here fairly quick.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prospector*
> 
> Hi guys,I wanted ask what additional fees someone has to pay,if he order the Qnix to come in UK?? Which delivery service would be the best to choose so that to pay the minimum amount of additional fees or taxes,for the monitor monitor to arrive at UK? Sorry for my english.


mate, tell me why do you want somebody else to do your research? take this up with UK postal service and customs or whatever delivery service the seller offers. right?

i live in slovakia, so i had to figure out my import fees and alo how to screw around the system for myself, who would help me do that? just do your research before ordering


----------



## Prospector

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> mate, tell me why do you want somebody else to do your research? take this up with UK postal service and customs or whatever delivery service the seller offers. right?
> 
> i live in slovakia, so i had to figure out my import fees and alo how to screw around the system for myself, who would help me do that? just do your research before ordering


Man,about my country I know everything that I need to know for the additional fees etc. My friend who just moved to Uk ,he didn't know nor do I what will happen if he order one monitor i.e from Korea..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joeking78*
> 
> Depends on which Ebay seller you chose I reckon...I went with Excellentcastle and he charged me 10 pounds shipping which is a good deal and it got here fairly quick.


Did you pay any addional fees other than 10£? Which delivery service you choose? EMS right? Thank you for Info.


----------



## Joeking78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prospector*
> 
> Man,about my country I know everything that I need to know for the additional fees etc. My friend who just moved to Uk ,he didn't know nor do I what will happen if he order one monitor i.e from Korea..
> Did you pay any addional fees other than 10£? Which delivery service you choose? EMS right? Thank you for Info.


No duty here in Dubai if its under a set value but it may be different in other countries.

Google tax on imports for your country and you should find something. Here in Dubai if it's over 300 pounds (I think) then you have to pay 5% tax.


----------



## Ghost12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prospector*
> 
> Hi guys,I wanted ask what additional fees someone has to pay,if he order the Qnix to come in UK?? Which delivery service would be the best to choose so that to pay the minimum amount of additional fees or taxes,for the monitor monitor to arrive at UK? Sorry for my english.


Some harsh replies, rather out of place on a help thread forum. Mine came via Fedex and I got a bill for £36.00, the ebay seller was accesorieswhole.

Hope this helps


----------



## Prospector

Thank you very much guys


----------



## Joeking78

Try this...http://www.dutycalculator.com/country-guides/Import-duty-taxes-when-importing-into-the-United-Kingdom/


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Will two 7970s get me a better Monitor overclock than one 7970?


No the monitor ability overclock lies with the monitor.


----------



## HeyBear

The FAQ on the first page also has some info on various import taxes depending on your location, look under the spoiler *VAT, Fees, Taxes by Country*

U.K.: From whybother
Marked at £30 the customs fee will simply be VAT or £6. The shipping company also charges a fee tho.
http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/
Monitors imported to the UK:
Value <£135 = 20%
Value >£135 = 14% (Duty) + 20% of Value + Duty
Plus shipping company fee.
http://www.dutycalculator.com/help_center/will-there-be-any-extra-charges-from-the-shipping-provider/
If the monitor was marked with a value of £250 and shipped via Royal Mail, your total customs fee would be £100. Gotta love this country...
If marked as a gift and less than £36 there should be no customs charge tho.

I'm not sure what happens if the monitor get's damaged in transit if you do the above and mark it as a gift with a £36 value though...


----------



## StarFrost

Can anyone play the video in this post at 60hz and 120hz and post their results?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/90#post_19825011

I'm having the same problem and I'm curious about how common it is.


----------



## Joeking78

All setup at home...96hz overclock straight out of the box







Time to play some games...will try 120hz later









EDIT: wow, this is amazing quality for the price, the difference between my old Samsung 1080p is hard to believe...maybe the best investment PC wise I ever made.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Well i would have expected more noise from nvidia users about it as well if it weren't working. Have you tried it yourself the way i said?


so, i've tested it the way you described, without success. i must therefore conclude, that i either have to sell the monitor, or replace the GPU or an ATI. dammit.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> so, i've tested it the way you described, without success. i must therefore conclude, that i either have to sell the monitor, or replace the GPU or an ATI. dammit.


Is windows at least loading it? Come to the red team, it's better over here anyway


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> it's not been working with your 670 and here's why:
> MCW method on nvidia cards only works for a few games and most of them are openGL (including RAGE, which you mentioned). however, the vast majority of games are direct3d, a.k.a. DX and this method does not work with most of them. i mentioned planetside 2 and guildwars 2, which i tested yesterday.
> 
> official response from nvidia does not give any reason to be optimistic about a proper fix to this issue.
> all of the above leads me to the recommendation not to buy korean screens if you are an avid nvidia fan, as they cannot be calibrated on a hardware level and there's no way to force the software calibration in fullscreen games.
> 
> i am kinda puzzled by the fact that people aren't screaming in rage about this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the foremost reason for buying these screens if the fact that you get the best of both worlds, right? *120Hz and accurate colors (well, not so accurate in case of nvidia users)*.....


This is assuming that *all* monitors aren't properly calibrated. It's random out of the factory but there is tuning somewhat. Nothing like a commercial release so it's hit and miss but rarely by that much, there are bad batches however.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> i would have too. no i haven't tested it the way you said yet, i'm at work still, doing my research into the issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have however used and calibrated the screen with MCW in the past week and have been using a persistent profile created by MCW itself, sadly to no avail. i'm quite confident that i have used it correctly and it leads me to think that what you suggested will not work either, but i will give it a try later, it's only a couple of minutes, after all.
> 
> my guess is that nvidia users aren't up in arms about this for several reasons.
> 
> 1.) they have zero idea about proper colors and they don't care (i.e. using TN panel monitors for gaming).
> 2.) they use screens with HW color options (i.e. monitors with OSD, which alleviates the problem - i can say i haven't been awre of this issue as up until a short time ago, i have been using exclusively DELL monitors with OSD and all that shebang and i haven't even used ICC profiles, i just set the colors up with the monitor OSD and i guess the majority of users do it like that as well)
> 
> so i guess it's either lack of knowledge or ignorance, or both (at least i didn't care up until now)


Don't forget 3) Monitors may have close to perfect color in which no one*²* going to notice a small change. Not every monitor is the same, which means there are probably a lucky bunch.

*²* If you're doing artwork or heavy photoshop and design like I do ( especially for comics ) then yes colors are important.

Apparently I'm very lucky w/ mine as my only issue thus far has been w/ somewhat saturated red which I've reduced by about 7% in its brightness and lowered vibrance by 5% Now everythings balanced beautifully. As far as color profiles, I'm not sure if it was you that was asking but I ran some tests with Tomb Raider and I can see the diff between the 2 I made loaded in full screen and in window.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Is windows at least loading it? Come to the red team, it's better over here anyway


I was considering jumping to the 290X but still waiting for them to fix some of the underlying issues that have been reported over the years as for Crossfire. Once I see stable cards, then possibly, but this means I'll be swapping from a surround setup + 1 to an eyefinity setup of 5 lol = I'll have to sell both my Titans( grabbing a 3rd ) and get 4x 290x's for 5x 1440p @ 100hz









That's a lotta debezzling lolol.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This is assuming that *all* monitors aren't properly calibrated. It's random out of the factory but there is tuning somewhat. Nothing like a commercial release so it's hit and miss but rarely by that much, there are bad batches however.
> Don't forget 3) Monitors may have close to perfect color in which no one*²* going to notice a small change. Not every monitor is the same, which means there are probably a lucky bunch.
> 
> *²* If you're doing artwork or heavy photoshop and design like I do ( especially for comics ) then yes colors are important.
> 
> Apparently I'm very lucky w/ mine as my only issue thus far has been w/ somewhat saturated red which I've reduced by about 7% in its brightness and lowered vibrance by 5% Now everythings balanced beautifully. As far as color profiles, I'm not sure if it was you that was asking but I ran some tests with Tomb Raider and I can see the diff between the 2 I made loaded in full screen and in window.
> I was considering jumping to the 290X but still waiting for them to fix some of the underlying issues that have been reported over the years as for Crossfire. Once I see stable cards, then possibly, but this means I'll be swapping from a surround setup + 1 to an eyefinity setup of 5 lol = I'll have to sell both my Titans( grabbing a 3rd ) and get 4x 290x's for 5x 1440p @ 100hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a lotta debezzling lolol.


A lot of money a lot of debezzeling a lot of trouble shooting no matter which way you go i reckon. Will be awesome once it's all set up tho. I had eyefinity and crossfire and discovered the 2 don't play well together. Got rid of eyefinity, then got rid of crossfire lol, but getting rid of crossfire was only due to needing the money not because of difficulties. I am feeling a little urge to go eyefinity with these in portrait mode lol, but the crap shoot on what is behind the tempered glass makes me nervous on grabbing 2 more and hoping they match. Not knowing about 1 in isolation is less of a big deal, but having the differences staring you in the face, no thanks lol.

So your saying you got mcw to force the profile with a Nvidia card and keep it loaded in full screen?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> So your saying you got mcw to force the profile with a Nvidia card and keep it loaded in full screen?


I wasn't using MCW I just installed and updated the ICM's, I'm considering purchasing a spyder though. Originally I was looking @ EIZO monitors for my lightroom / photoshop work lol, these monitors are really nice though.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I wasn't using MCW I just installed and updated the ICM's, I'm considering purchasing a spyder though. Originally I was looking @ EIZO monitors for my lightroom / photoshop work lol, these monitors are really nice though.


Nice. I'm not going crazy. I knew i had it working with a 670. +rep for letting me know i'm not nuts.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Im going crazy.... dreamseller is selling the x-star for 279$.... the pixel perfect went up to 329$ uggggg. Why is this so difficult for me....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Im going crazy.... dreamseller is selling the x-star for 279$.... the pixel perfect went up to 329$ uggggg. Why is this so difficult for me....


I'll be buying 3 of them if I have to return my glass ones, and just remove the film myself.


----------



## yasmas1

I've been lurking this thread for well over a month, and i finally decided to get a qnix. The qnix arrived is just 2 days from storewithstory. zero dead/stuck pixels (i didn't buy a perfect)
No BLB at all, but a strong tint of warm yellow on the lower half of the screen. It looks like i have f.lux turned on only on the bottom half, I think it will take some time getting used to.
I live in denmark and the package was sent with DHL. The seller marked the package $85 which resulted in me saving $84 in import fees.








DHL has a taxing brokerage free of $32 which is totally legit compared to the $30 of Post Danmark which usually take 1-2 weeks to process the package, which is insane compared to the few hours DHL takes.
The monitor overclocks easily to 120 hertz with only a few scanlines. I decided to go ahead and order a new high quality cable which will arrive tomorrow.

Is there a fix for the yellow tint on the bottom of the screen, i know i've read something about it in the thread but on what page i don't know









All in all i paid $299 + $20 Shipping + $55 is import fees, and $20 for a new cable.

I don't regret getting this monitor over the ASUS VG278HE at all.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Finally clicked the "Buy it Now" button yesterday and bought QNIX from gn_whole from ebay... He opted for EMS to minimize the additional cost/fees by my request. It was dispatched about 3 hours ago from KR... I hope there will be no physical damage when arrived. I will probably get it by Friday or next week due to EMS and clearing stuff or probably from slow process than FedEx. Wish me luck!


----------



## lightsout

I'm tempted to a get a matte screen on the next one to not worry about another shattering. There really isn't much protection for the screen just the little layer of bubble wrap they use. But obviously plenty of others got theirs fine.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I'm tempted to a get a matte screen on the next one to not worry about another shattering. There really isn't much protection for the screen just the little layer of bubble wrap they use. But obviously plenty of others got theirs fine.


I say pull urs out anyways and check for damages, if the screens fine (it'll probably be matte) then you can just ask for a partial refund.









This is what I did from the previous seller, I kept my matte when I ordered gloss, got a partial refund for that as well as for the polarizer issue. So ended up shaving about 100$ from the monitor. For you though it'll probably be like 20-25$ the additional for me was from the defect but I don't notice it at a slight angle so it'll be either my left or right monitor for surround


----------



## mboner1

Well i just updated to the latest amd 13.11 beta 9.5 drivers and seem to have lost the ability to overclock the monitor. It's not showing up as a option, only 60hz


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I'm tempted to a get a matte screen on the next one to not worry about another shattering. There really isn't much protection for the screen just the little layer of bubble wrap they use. But obviously plenty of others got theirs fine.
> 
> 
> 
> I say pull urs out anyways and check for damages, if the screens fine (it'll probably be matte) then you can just ask for a partial refund.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I did from the previous seller, I kept my matte when I ordered gloss, got a partial refund for that as well as for the polarizer issue. So ended up shaving about 100$ from the monitor. For you though it'll probably be like 20-25$ the additional for me was from the defect but I don't notice it at a slight angle so it'll be either my left or right monitor for surround
Click to expand...

I have considered that, and depending how he responds I may. I honestly just haven't wanted to deal with the glass or I would have done it already. The glass is a mess but it's all contained in the plastic right now.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Is windows at least loading it? Come to the red team, it's better over here anyway


yeah windows loads it without problems, ICC work in desktop mode but when i run for example guild wars 2 and switch to fullscreen, the ICC profile (or MCW profile) gets disabled and i can clearly see a fairly big gamma shift and the display get a lot darker. i can see this also in the game itself when i toggle between windowed fullscreen and 2560x1440 fullscreen. it's driving me nuts.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> yeah windows loads it without problems, ICC work in desktop mode but when i run for example guild wars 2 and switch to fullscreen, the ICC profile (or MCW profile) gets disabled and i can clearly see a fairly big gamma shift and the display get a lot darker. i can see this also in the game itself when i toggle between windowed fullscreen and 2560x1440 fullscreen. it's driving me nuts.


Well i don't know man if you have named and saved the icc profile in mcw and clicked force persistent profile then loaded it from the drop down box and it's not working i'm out of ideas.


----------



## Sylphanos

Hey all after some lurking here i finally bought the qnix.
It has arrived today and its looking great. No dead pixels and OCed straight to 120hz with no problems.
However i think i have alot backlight bleeding.



Is this acceptable or should i return it / try tape mod.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'll be buying 3 of them if I have to return my glass ones, and just remove the film myself.


Which one the pixel perfect? Or the regular for 279?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Which one the pixel perfect? Or the regular for 279?


Regular, since according to 1000's on this thread, there's no difference between the 2.


----------



## Joeking78

Anyone with 2x 290x and 96hz/1440p can share their FPS in BF4 at Ultra?

I'm getting 96 with v-sync, Ultra, 2x AA with some little dips to 65-70...no overclocks.


----------



## FatalProximity

can someone direct me to a link that can explain how i would OC the QNIX monitor. I'm considering getting one this week if its easy.

edit: also if someone can suggest the best place to buy it that would be nice (I live in Canada)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatalProximity*
> 
> can someone direct me to a link that can explain how i would OC the QNIX monitor. I'm considering getting one this week if its easy.
> 
> edit: also if someone can suggest the best place to buy it that would be nice (I live in Canada)


Just click page 1 of this thread, has the whole process right there on the first post









VERY easy process.


----------



## HeyBear

Hmm, this talk of lost calibrations while gaming has me a little worried... I was hoping to build a new rig over the Christmas holidays and I'd just about settled on two 780 ti's and two of the matte Qnix montiors... The fact that it doesn't seem to have come up extensively before now (to my knowledge) has me wondering how bad the issue really is though.

Coming from 1080p TN panels, would this be really obvious do you think? Enough to pass up 780 ti's and go for two 290x's instead?







I hate tricky decisions!


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sylphanos*
> 
> Hey all after some lurking here i finally bought the qnix.
> It has arrived today and its looking great. No dead pixels and OCed straight to 120hz with no problems.
> However i think i have alot backlight bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this acceptable or should i return it / try tape mod.


Do the tape mod. If you return it you may get a screen with dead pixels, and can't overclock. Not worth the risk when tape mod is an easy fix.


----------



## Traverser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joeking78*
> 
> Anyone with 2x 290x and 96hz/1440p can share their FPS in BF4 at Ultra?
> 
> I'm getting 96 with v-sync, Ultra, 2x AA with some little dips to 65-70...no overclocks.


Using 1440, I've read that anti aliasing is a waste of power from your gpu's. I couldn't tell a differance, though I has been awhile since I've played with the graphics levels.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Just got my monitor...

WOWOWOOWOWOWOWOWOWOOW

No dead pixels from what I can see, no black light bleed.

From what I can tell... absolutely perfect

HOLY ****!

Coming from a 22" 1680x1050 120hz display. This is mind blowing

Edit: I just hit 120hz in the custom resolution. Didnt change anything else and Whammy! It's running. Thing is, my panel got quite dark doing that. So im gonna try and make it brighter through the gamma settings. Besides that... this is like winning the lottery.

edit 2: That didnt last long. I had some red and blue distortion lines going horizontal. Trying 96hz now.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Just got my monitor...
> 
> WOWOWOOWOWOWOWOWOWOOW
> 
> No dead pixels from what I can see, no black light bleed.
> 
> From what I can tell... absolutely perfect
> 
> HOLY ****!
> 
> Coming from a 22" 1680x1050 120hz display. This is mind blowing
> 
> Edit: I just hit 120hz in the custom resolution. Didnt change anything else and Whammy! It's running. Thing is, my panel got quite dark doing that. So im gonna try and make it brighter through the gamma settings. Besides that... this is like winning the lottery.
> 
> edit 2: That didnt last long. I had some red and blue distortion lines going horizontal. Trying 96hz now.


I can do 120 but it seems 105-110hz is the sweet spot on mine, you might give that a go.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hmm, this talk of lost calibrations while gaming has me a little worried... I was hoping to build a new rig over the Christmas holidays and I'd just about settled on two 780 ti's and two of the matte Qnix montiors... The fact that it doesn't seem to have come up extensively before now (to my knowledge) has me wondering how bad the issue really is though.
> 
> *Coming from 1080p TN panels, would this be really obvious do you think?* Enough to pass up 780 ti's and go for two 290x's instead?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate tricky decisions!


VERY


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> VERY


Thanks for the reply, Luna.

Did you mean the issue with the losing the calibration would be very noticeable? Or just the jump from 1080p TN to 1440 PLS is very noticeable? I'm guessing the latter. Do you game much on your Titans? Have you noticed poor colour, especially when overclocked?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, Luna.
> 
> Did you mean the issue with the losing the calibration would be very noticeable? Or just the jump from 1080p TN to 1440 PLS is very noticeable? I'm guessing the latter. Do you game much on your Titans? Have you noticed poor colour, especially when overclocked?


The latter, and I can from a TN panel so it was very much recognizable on the sharpness/color/detail etc. Probably also the 1440p as well. As far as Color degradation due to overclock the only thing that changes for me is the gamma which I readjust as well as the brightness and it looks like 60hz again. Colors were spot on for me. As far as color issues the same applies to just about any monitor in a way. I have 4 HP monitors all the same model, and it varied a bit with each, but after calibrating / moving it over all were the same, mainly in the OSD settings vs internal.

Hope that helps.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> The latter, and I can from a TN panel so it was very much recognizable on the sharpness/color/detail etc. Probably also the 1440p as well. As far as Color degradation due to overclock the only thing that changes for me is the gamma which I readjust as well as the brightness and it looks like 60hz again. Colors were spot on for me. As far as color issues the same applies to just about any monitor in a way. I have 4 HP monitors all the same model, and it varied a bit with each, but after calibrating / moving it over all were the same, mainly in the OSD settings vs internal.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Yes thanks. I think my hearts still set on 780 ti's so glad to hear it's not going to be too much of an issue. I won't be doing anything that requires a professional level of calibration so as long as I can get it looking good to my eyes, i'll be happy.

Now I just have to chance my luck on the monitor lottery!










p.s. Thanks for taking the time to document your matte coating removal, could prove useful down the line, +REP for your troubles.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Yes thanks. I think my hearts still set on 780 ti's so glad to hear it's not going to be too much of an issue. I won't be doing anything that requires a professional level of calibration so as long as I can get it looking good to my eyes, i'll be happy.
> 
> Now I just have to chance my luck on the monitor lottery!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. Thanks for taking the time to document your matte coating removal, could prove useful down the line, +REP for your troubles.


np and Ah! I need to create a more detailed version for step by step lol, it's quite easy to do but I know some may fear breaking something so I'll wanna add in more pics for this specific bezel. There's also another thread for removing the bezel and reattaching the back plate to it for ultra thinness which is INSANE if you see them in surround


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I can do 120 but it seems 105-110hz is the sweet spot on mine, you might give that a go.


The only thing im worried about, is the long term effects of doing such. I'm gonna leave it at 60hz for the time being. Maybe in the next few days i'll dabble higher refresh rates. Games do look a lot better but BF4 feels sluggish compared to my 120hz tn. I guess I'll just have to get used to it. Shouldn't be a problem. Also, there is more noticeable input lag but it's not bad to my surprise.

The strangest thing is that some games like CS:GO are crashing. It brings my monitor to 680x480 or something and its just a black screen. Guacamelee also crashes on boot.


----------



## the9quad

Received mine a couple of days ago:
One bad pixel, I am ok with that.
Overclocked to 120hz first try, no coil whine.
Set up some color profiles to test out from this thread, and adjusted my gamma and I love it.

I didn't get mine off Ebay, I paid 325 from amazon, recieved a glossy QNIX qxz2710


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Received mine a couple of days ago:
> One bad pixel, I am ok with that.
> Overclocked to 120hz first try, no coil whine.
> Set up some color profiles to test out from this thread, and adjusted my gamma and I love it.
> 
> I didn't get mine off Ebay, *I paid 325 from amazon, recieved a glossy QNIX qxz2710*


WUT? I DEMAND TO KNOW WHICH SELLER! LOL I"LL RETURN MINE IN A HEARTBEAT







Cruise control ftw


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Received mine a couple of days ago:
> One bad pixel, I am ok with that.
> Overclocked to 120hz first try, no coil whine.
> Set up some color profiles to test out from this thread, and adjusted my gamma and I love it.
> 
> I didn't get mine off Ebay, I paid 325 from amazon, recieved a glossy QNIX qxz2710


pics or it didn't happen


----------



## TelFiRE

Mine arrived today! I am semi-happy with it. On the one hand, the colors are great, there are no dead pixels, and I think I hit the lottery on backlight bleed compared to some pictures I have seen.

However, I have two 60hz 1080 monitors I was planning to do surround with. This monitor doesn't play nice with surround! Obviously, it is capable of running at 60hz and 1080, which are the only stated requirements for surround, but it claims that the monitor doesn't run at the same refresh rate as the others. This is disappointing, but a possibility that I had considered. Someone told me it wouldn't work, I just didn't believe them, because I thought, a monitor is a monitor, as long as it goes high enough resolution. Not so much.

If anyone knows an adapter that can make this work let me know, I'd really appreciate it.

That said I'm pretty stoked on the monitor still, and the main reason I got it was for more working space and 1440 gaming instead of 1080 will still be nice, so I'm not TOO disappointed.

P.S. is there a form I have to fill out to be a part of your club, like there was for 780? I'm not seeing it. Do I just copy to sig?


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hmm, this talk of lost calibrations while gaming has me a little worried... I was hoping to build a new rig over the Christmas holidays and I'd just about settled on two 780 ti's and two of the matte Qnix montiors... The fact that it doesn't seem to have come up extensively before now (to my knowledge) has me wondering how bad the issue really is though.
> 
> Coming from 1080p TN panels, would this be really obvious do you think? Enough to pass up 780 ti's and go for two 290x's instead?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate tricky decisions!


i'm prbably gonna have to sell the screen, even though i like it. i can't affrod to sell my 680, would lose more money on that than on the screen. if i was building a new machine and was set on this screen, i'd definately go for ATI.

had i known this fact, i wouldn't have bought the monitor to be honest.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> The only thing im worried about, is the long term effects of doing such. I'm gonna leave it at 60hz for the time being. Maybe in the next few days i'll dabble higher refresh rates. Games do look a lot better but BF4 feels sluggish compared to my 120hz tn. I guess I'll just have to get used to it. Shouldn't be a problem. Also, there is more noticeable input lag but it's not bad to my surprise.
> 
> The strangest thing is that some games like CS:GO are crashing. It brings my monitor to 680x480 or something and its just a black screen. Guacamelee also crashes on boot.


I understand on the long term effects, I don't think any of us know yet. I run mine overclocked while gaming and when I'm done I just put it back to 60 for everything else.


----------



## StarFrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StarFrost*
> 
> Can anyone play the video in this post at 60hz and 120hz and post their results?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/90#post_19825011
> 
> I'm having the same problem and I'm curious about how common it is.


Anyone want to try this? Curious to see how common it is.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

96hz seems to be perfect. I could try 110 or 100 but I think it works well. I think it's also smart to keep it only on for games. Since many of these panels can get strange artifacts, I dont want to risk it. It's almost too good. Colours, lighting, resolution, image quality overall is just insane.

There is more motion blur at 120hz on this PLS panel vs my TN native 120hz but even so... common it's not even fair. This blows it out of the water


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> i'm prbably gonna have to sell the screen, even though i like it. i can't affrod to sell my 680, would lose more money on that than on the screen. if i was building a new machine and was set on this screen, i'd definately go for ATI.
> 
> had i known this fact, i wouldn't have bought the monitor to be honest.


Thanks for the reply, Skuko. This has got me in a bit of a quandary!

I'll have to look into it some more, i'm planning to go sli/crossfire and watercool both cards in an attempt to get close to 120hz, I just have reservations over how smooth the AMD cards are in crossfire. I suppose the point is moot if the visuals suffer as much as you have found.

Would probably get more out of Mantle and TrueAudio as well compared to g-sync as I'm going for these monitors.

The 780 ti's still have a hook in me though... If only Nvidia would sort it out!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, Skuko. This has got me in a bit of a quandary!
> 
> I'll have to look into it some more, i'm planning to go sli/crossfire and watercool both cards in an attempt to get close to 120hz, I just have reservations over how smooth the AMD cards are in crossfire. I suppose the point is moot if the visuals suffer as much as you have found.
> 
> Would probably get more out of Mantle and TrueAudio as well compared to g-sync as I'm going for these monitors.
> 
> The 780 ti's still have a hook in me though... If only Nvidia would sort it out!


For what it's worth I've heard that GSync will work with many of the korean brands.

I believe Skuko may have just gotten a bad monitor, there's always bound to be a bad apple in every batch lol. Same goes w/ GPU's and their ASIC %


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> For what it's worth I've heard that GSync will work with many of the korean brands.
> 
> I believe Skuko may have just gotten a bad monitor, there's always bound to be a bad apple in every batch lol. Same goes w/ GPU's and their ASIC %


Egads! They don't make this easy! Think i'm just gonna have to throw some money at things and see what happens, that usually works out doesn't it









Thanks again, Luna.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Egads! They don't make this easy! Think i'm just gonna have to throw some money at things and see what happens, *that usually works out doesn't it*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again, Luna.




Found it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nvidia*
> This, Huang promised, would not only allow gamers to disable VSync and not have tearing or frame stuttering in games, but it would also allow gamers to run games as fast as their monitors would allow while simultaneously dropping input lag (the time it takes for your movements to be translated to your monitor).
> 
> The GSync module will be initially available to modders looking to mod their monitors to accommodate it. While the ASUS VG248QE is the only monitor officially supporting it today, *there are also variants of the 27-inch Korean IPS gaming monitors which would also be able to run on a GSync module by replacing the scaler.*
> 
> *The benefits of a variable refresh rate are huge. Images will always be sharp and clear, motion blur is greatly reduced at low frame rates* and it opens up several options to game developers to make their worlds more realistic instead of electing to make design compromises to keep frame rates high.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> WUT? I DEMAND TO KNOW WHICH SELLER! LOL I"LL RETURN MINE IN A HEARTBEAT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cruise control ftw


Was bizaroo. Also it was $350. My bad, bought so much crap lately, thought it was $325. I can post pics tomorrow.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Was bizaroo. Also it was $350. My bad, bought so much crap lately, thought it was $325. I can post pics tomorrow.


Did the monitor ship from Korea?


----------



## TelFiRE

Newegg has it for $350 but ships from Korea anyway, so I don't really see the point. Greensum got it to me in Utah in 3 business days for no charge.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Newegg has it for $350 but ships from Korea anyway, so I don't really see the point. Greensum got it to me in Utah in 3 business days for no charge.


We're talking gloss here not tempered matte or matte lol. This is srs bizness +_+


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> We're talking gloss here not tempered matte or matte lol. This is srs bizness +_+


I emailed the seller (Bizaroo) on what exactly they have left in stock. Will post response as soon as I hear back.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I emailed the seller (Bizaroo) on what exactly they have left in stock. Will post response as soon as I hear back.


w000 thx!


----------



## TelFiRE

I thought you couldn't get gloss any more? You can get for $350?! DAMMIT! Mine is tempered but I assume it is matte underneath, so like the worst of both worlds







Oh well, it's still gorgeous


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> We're talking gloss here not tempered matte or matte lol. This is srs bizness +_+


I took some pics of what they sent me as glossy, seems glossy to me, hope this helps.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Mine is tempered but I assume it is matte underneath, so like the worst of both worlds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, it's still gorgeous


You don't like the Tempered version? What's bad about it? I ordered a Tempered...


----------



## chris21010

Hello, i recently got my Qunix 2710 LED Display and was quite happy to overclock it to 96KHz without any issues. tried 120Hz for a while but my 570 isn't capable of keeping up at that rate with my dual monitor setup. that aside the bleeding on mine was very minimal, only a little on the top right edge, and 2 dead black pixels around the edge but one stuck green pixel about 2" from the bottom and 4" from the center. this one pixel is only annoying because i know it is there but under normal use i never can really see it.

All around a wonderful purchase BUT i have one issue that i would like to ask about:



Looking at that image i made in paint you can see that there is an obvious color difference in the two halves of my monitor when the screen is a dark shade of grey. it disappears if it gets too black or too white. i actually noticed this initially watching some videos and i thought someone stupid used a bad filter and encoded it poorly, alas that is not the case. is there something that can be done to address this or is this simply a defect in the monitor that i can not return it over?


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> You don't like the Tempered version? What's bad about it? I ordered a Tempered...


Well, my understanding is that the tempered glass has a matte coating underneath. Which I don't really understand. Because the main purpose of a matte coating is to reduce glare, I thought. But with the tempered glass, you still get glare regardless.

I'm not at all worried about the glare, it's totally dark in here, I just wish it didn't have the matte.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

I ordered myn yesterday and Its supposed to be at my house tomorrow i guess.. My god thats fast... I sent out my 290x for rma and it wont hit cali till friday or monday at latest.. I sent it out monday morning.. I live in south dakota.. facepalm.. I guess the Korean's really know how to ship goods..

I just hope myn works out to be good, it seems like there has been afew monitors that have been bad recently.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> I ordered myn yesterday and Its supposed to be at my house tomorrow i guess.. My god thats fast... I sent out my 290x for rma and it wont hit cali till friday or monday at latest.. I sent it out monday morning.. I live in south dakota.. facepalm.. I guess the Korean's really know how to ship goods..
> 
> I just hope myn works out to be good, it seems like there has been afew monitors that have been bad recently.


Mine is basically flawless and yea this shipping its unreal. Hopefully you get a good one. I think the majority of people do end up getting a near perfect panel. It's just those few occurrences that really make this seem sketchy. I ordered Sunday night and it got to Southern Ontario, Canada in 3 days.

edit: BTW, the DHL shipping was really good. The guy was waiting on my driveway when I got home. Perfect timing. No damages to the box what so ever


----------



## Ovrclck

Wow! Colors are amazing, I haven't touched any of the settings yet. Besides some BLB. I'm happy to report, no dead pixels! I kinda dig the tempered glass look.











So glad I didn't waste my money on a pixel perfect.


----------



## lightsout

Congrats Bro glad to hear it!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Congrats Bro glad to hear it!


Thanks man!


----------



## Doomtomb

Is there a way to stop the creaking of moving this display? I put it on a monitor arm and everytime I move it, it sounds like Old Mrs. Hubbard's Cupboard


----------



## Beat

I'm from South Africa and wanting to buy one of these beasts of a screen,

I'm just worried whether I should go PixelPerfect or not, The exchange rate is a bit of a killer as it is for me between non perfect vs perfect.

Is it worth the extra? I'm rather finicky when it comes to dead pixels and spot them rather easily on screens so I'm rather scared of getting a monitor that does has compared to say the piece of mind I get with a pixel perfect, I see some people say the PixelPerfect is just a marketing term more than anything?


----------



## libertysky

just wondering, what's the average lifespan of these monitors if anyone knows? i know these haven't been released that long, but i saw some posts mentioning ~1 yr. i hope that's a small percentage outlier group of owners and not an expected lifespan for owners in general


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *libertysky*
> 
> just wondering, what's the average lifespan of these monitors if anyone knows? i know these haven't been released that long, but i saw some posts mentioning ~1 yr. i hope that's a small percentage outlier group of owners and not an expected lifespan for owners in general


That was 1st gen models which are no longer being made, we're on 3rd gen now







so the burn outs don't really occur anymore on the PCB


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Just got my Spyder4 Pro today and I got to say that the profiles provided in the first post or on any other site were nowhere near the correct colors for me and they were all too yellow or blue for my screen and room lightning. So I decided to share my profile here in case someone else feels the same.
> 
> Qnix QX2710 @ 96Hz, 6500k white point, 120cdm, 2.2 gamma and 11 clicks brightness from the minimum. Matte monitor. The room lightning is quite dim.
> 
> QNIXQX2710-96hz.zip 2k .zip file


Incredible, I must have gone through 7 profiles when I first setup the monitor and chose the one that had the least "warmth" and honestly I loved it but then I loaded yours up tonight and kept going back and forth between it and the one I had been using and the whites using your profile are legit white. Impressive sir and thank you! I love it! +rep!!!


----------



## Mp0wer

I got mine, no dead pixels, no bleeding, plus they shipped it overnight for free

Although I'm not a fan of the blue led flashing when it's off or sleeping


----------



## Ovrclck

Overclocked to 96Hz with ease. Can't do anything above that. Satisfied.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Well, my understanding is that the tempered glass has a matte coating underneath. Which I don't really understand. Because the main purpose of a matte coating is to reduce glare, I thought. But with the tempered glass, you still get glare regardless.
> 
> I'm not at all worried about the glare, it's totally dark in here, I just wish it didn't have the matte.


I'm trying not to get to hung up on mine. I personally think mine is tempered glass and glossy but who really knows. It looks better to me than matte anyway and that's all that matters, i mean, if you hadn't been reading this thread you would think it's glossy wouldn't you? It's not like you can tell is my point.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I'm trying not to get to hung up on mine. I personally think mine is tempered glass and glossy but who really knows. It looks better to me than matte anyway and that's all that matters, i mean, if you hadn't been reading this thread you would think it's glossy wouldn't you? It's not like you can tell is my point.


Honestly, I can't even tell lol


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Greensum, and yeah..sadly..2 together... they're in Alaska now they just left = blizzard is done so here's hoping lol. No biggie if not I'll just order from amazon after.
> 
> Or keep whichever is working, remove the matte if there is any and if polarizer is fine, swap it out w/ mine and send mine back.
> That was 1st gen models which are no longer being made, we're on 3rd gen now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so the burn outs don't really occur anymore on the PCB


Seriously? Thats sick. I didnt know they're updated.

It's weird. I feel like I stole or committed a crime with this monitor. How can I have this 1440p crazy display while paying lower then the 27" 1080p tn panel i bought a few weeks ago? lol idk this is NUTS


----------



## mboner1

I'm glad everyone is digging the tempered glass, i am as well.

Oh and i said i had a issue earlier with the overclocking on the newest AMD driver but i think it was my fault, i ran a driver sweeping utility with a new install of win8.1 and i think it broke quite a few things, re installed win8.1 and all is good. Hot tip... don't use any unofficial driver utilities with windows 8 or 8.1 lol.


----------



## Stige

Any tips and tricks to lessen the burnin effect on top right corner? It is really the only complain I got about this thing, it burns in really damn fast when I got browser upfront.

Apart from the obvious "lower refresh rate" ofcourse.
Would suck to play at low refresh rates.


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Incredible, I must have gone through 7 profiles when I first setup the monitor and chose the one that had the least "warmth" and honestly I loved it but then I loaded yours up tonight and kept going back and forth between it and the one I had been using and the whites using your profile are legit white. Impressive sir and thank you! I love it! +rep!!!


I'm glad it's working for you too! I'm quite impressed of the result myself too.


----------



## Joshdm2001

Very happy. Mine came in earlier today. I ordered the glossy model from green-sum.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Glossy = tempered glass.

Monitor looks fantastic. Glass reflection is not bad at all and unnoticeable in the dark with lights off. Lights on its still not too bad. I just look past it.

No dead pixels and minor blb on bottom and lower left corner.

Shipped quickly via UPS. Box and monitor arrived in perfect condition.

No color calibration required. Picture is sharp and clear. Actually digging the glass.

Stand is ok. Not the worst, not the best.

Haven't tried overclocking yet.

Overall very pleased and impressed. Hopefully these things have a long life expectancy.


----------



## Ovrclck

overclocking takes two seconds, just patch and on your way. Everything looks so much better when overclocked. The difference is night/day.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

^^^ He speaketh da truth!


----------



## GoEz

Anyone have a snug portrait-landscape setup with either of these monitors? Like this one



Is it strange for the monitors to use different resolutions? Excuse the nub questions I have no experience with multi monitor setups...yet.


----------



## skuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> For what it's worth I've heard that GSync will work with many of the korean brands.
> 
> I believe Skuko may have just gotten a bad monitor, there's always bound to be a bad apple in every batch lol. Same goes w/ GPU's and their ASIC %


i don't.









we can agree to disagree about it, but i stand by what i said until proven otherwise.

let me again point you to this thread if you want to read up on the issue.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1107875/nvidia-forever-ignoring-custom-color-profile-support-in-full-screen-games

i wish i could capture it on video, but i don't have the gear to do it.


----------



## mboner1

Well i had to re-install windows 8.1 and re did the calibration since it's been awhile since i did the last one and it's recommended to re-calibrate every couple of months at least. It's for a tempered glass qnix at max brightness which is 235 cdm @ 96hz.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59654549/tits32.icm

Also why the hell aren't big companies like samsung and dell etc. taking notice of the popularity of these monitors and releasing a premium version 1440p 96/120/144hz monitor?? Makes no sense to me.


----------



## mboner1

Now i have to click "detect" in windows under personalize>display>adjust resolution>advanced settings>monitor>detect for it to detect the overclock. Using win8.1 and the newest beta driver, anyone had similar issues???? It's detected in ccc the whole time as 96hz capable so i'm thinking i might need to apply something in there.


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> Does anyone know how to run permanently successfully 120hz on a Qnix if you use 2 screens (extended) ?
> 
> With Framelimiter on 120/121, I don`t really feel like to screen to be running on 120hz. Even though the FPS says 121.
> 
> With Vsync and framelimiter off, what happens is, sometimes it is running on 120hz, sometimes if i alt tab into the second screen and back, it stays at 60hz (60fps) So I have to alt tab multiple times out and back in to see the 120hz (120fps) again. In addition I can just feel how the screen is much smoother compared to running with the framelimiter (suggesting it is not running there with 120hz)
> 
> Is there anything I can do, despite to switch off the second screen and stay only on one when gaming?
> 
> What I forgot to add is, I am playing all games in window mode fullscreen, might this be A reason too? The Majority of the games run on 120hz if played in fullscreen, but not on window mode.
> 
> I mean, a proper not overclocked 120hz would be able to run 120hz also in window mode, right?
> 
> I guess the culprit is the second screen, because if I disable it, games run as smooth with the framelimiter as if I`d have it disabled and only running it with vsync......
> 
> Well, guess for 2x Qnix then?


any1?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> any1?


Yeah, it's the second screen causing the issue. If i connect a 2nd screen it defaults to the lower one at times be it frame rate or resolution. They both really need to be the same frame rate and resolution for everything to work as it should i have found.


----------



## Vesanius

It works just fine in full screen even with a 1080p 60hz monitor running beside it. However if I happen to run anything in windowed mode and the window touches the edge of the screen (without going to the other monitor) it drops the FPS to half just like if the window was placed in between of the two monitors. That includes a boarderless windowed mode too. The only solution I happened to find for this was to move my second monitor either to below or top of my main screen in the screen settings, but that's kinda annoying too as it feels strange to move your mouse up or down to reach the monitor on your left. Got to live with that until I can find a better solution or until I have money to buy two more Qnix's.


----------



## dante`afk

Thanks.

So that means either 2x Qnix or fullscreen. Sucks.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> Seriously? Thats sick. I didnt know they're updated.
> 
> It's weird. I feel like I stole or committed a crime with this monitor. How can I have this 1440p crazy display while paying lower then the 27" 1080p tn panel i bought a few weeks ago? lol idk this is NUTS


They're A- Panels = Samsung can't officially sell them so this is their method vs scraping them lol, They're cheap to make so either way Samsung is making $$$$
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoEz*
> 
> Anyone have a snug portrait-landscape setup with either of these monitors? Like this one
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it strange for the monitors to use different resolutions? Excuse the nub questions I have no experience with multi monitor setups...yet.


I don't but will soon, and currently I just have 1 1440p while my other 3 are 1080p so its not unnatural, I have 1 1080 p in portrait as well. I'll upload a pic later.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skuko*
> 
> i don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *we can agree to disagree about it, but i stand by what i said until proven otherwise.
> *
> let me again point you to this thread if you want to read up on the issue.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1107875/nvidia-forever-ignoring-custom-color-profile-support-in-full-screen-games
> 
> i wish i could capture it on video, but i don't have the gear to do it.


I think you misunderstood me, I'm talking about your monitor not having a good color calibration








Not that it can't hold its own, and I've already proven other wise that the profiles stick in games for mine, not sure if its card or driver or w/e related. Hit or miss, but either way my statement of bad batch meant you just had a badly calibrated monitor, and was just informing the user so that he didn't decline due to 1 negative remark when there are tons of happy users. It is a lottery though.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I emailed the seller (Bizaroo) on what exactly they have left in stock. Will post response as soon as I hear back.


Thank you for contacting us and for your interest in the QNIX QX2710 IPS LCD monitor.

To answer your question, the tempering of the glass may be present to strengthen the IPS Panel and integrity of the panel structure. However the GLOSSY screen model panel finish is glossy without any "matte" finish items present.

Please let us know if you have any additional questions or concerns.

Warmest Regards,
Bizaroo!
Customer Service Team

Not sure if this is entirely true. It has to be tempered+matte underneath. Unless all the other tempered glass ones are the same (glass no matte)?


----------



## Ovrclck

I think this has been asked before. But is it safe to run these monitors overclocked 24/7?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Thank you for contacting us and for your interest in the QNIX QX2710 IPS LCD monitor.
> 
> To answer your question, the tempering of the glass may be present to strengthen the IPS Panel and integrity of the panel structure. However the GLOSSY screen model panel finish is glossy without any "matte" finish items present.
> 
> Please let us know if you have any additional questions or concerns.
> 
> Warmest Regards,
> Bizaroo!
> Customer Service Team
> 
> Not sure if this is entirely true. It has to be tempered+matte underneath. Unless all the other tempered glass ones are the same (glass no matte)?


Alright thanks but that's not as confusing as Greensum, I asked him to once again confirm if it's gloss or matte as I explained it cannot be gloss AND matte else it would just be matte lol.

Here's his response.. Completely beats around the bush.
Quote:


> Hello, this is Green sum.
> 
> Thank you for your information and advice for it.
> 
> As you know, we are reporting the information from the manufacture as the seller, please understand that at first. We already informed the all of information about the panel through the ebay messages.
> 
> Panel without coating was glossy, so it was called glossy panel.
> Matte and glossy is different panel from the first as you know.
> 
> We are selling only the glossy and matte panel those are supported from the manufacture.
> If all of buyers would report to receive the tempered version than glossy from us, we would stop to sell that version as well.
> Because buyer's satisfaction is very important.
> If so, we are going to make the claim strongly to manufacture with this issue.
> 
> Please don't misunderstand that we don't want to avoid the respond.
> We are saying the true and information from the manufacture.
> 
> We are also having difficulty a lot with this issue to proceed CS. However there is only way to convey the information like this.
> We are saying really be honest for you.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> - green-sum


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I think this has been asked before. But is it safe to run these monitors overclocked 24/7?


I've been, no change thus far, I set my monitor to sleep after 20-30 minutes of inactivity as well.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I've been, no change thus far, I set my monitor to sleep after 20-30 minutes of inactivity as well.


Great! Thanks


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Great! Thanks


lol just edited my previous post in response to your other Dx


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoEz*
> 
> Anyone have a snug portrait-landscape setup with either of these monitors? Like this one
> 
> 
> 
> Is it strange for the monitors to use different resolutions? Excuse the nub questions I have no experience with multi monitor setups...yet.


Is that a 27" or a 30' in that picture? I was looking into this when I had my previous 27" korean. Saw some pictures like that but turned out they were all with 30" dells. To get a monitor that would fit in portrait along with the 27" it was going to need to be extremely small, which meant really low res. That is of course if you want it to line up perfectly like it dies in the pic.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright thanks but that's not as confusing as Greensum, I asked him to once again confirm if it's gloss or matte as I explained it cannot be gloss AND matte else it would just be matte lol.
> 
> Here's his response.. Completely beats around the bush.
> 
> I've been, no change thus far, I set my monitor to sleep after 20-30 minutes of inactivity as well.


Haha, so he's basically saying no one has any idea on what's behind the tempered glass and if enough people complain they will simply stop offering tempered glass and only do matte and possibly glossy??


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Haha, so he's basically saying no one has any idea on what's behind the tempered glass and if enough people complain they will simply stop offering tempered glass and only do matte and possibly glossy??


Your interpretation skills are pro lol







pretty much seems the case haha


----------



## Taint3dBulge

I cant wait till it hits me doorstep. I keep refreshing to see if its been delivered..

Gosh dang thats so fast for free shipping lol..


----------



## Slaughtahouse

I knew they're were A- panels, I just didn't know that these Qnix had revisions.

Games never looked so good.


----------



## bmancreations

I have 3 of these monitors mounted, and I am looking to get them debezeled and painted and ready to be mounted again. The issue is the tutorials look a bit to complex for myself, wondering if anyone on here is in Ottawa and has experience?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaughtahouse*
> 
> I knew they're were A- panels, I just didn't know that these Qnix had revisions.
> 
> Games never looked so good.


Sucks that your team lost







BTW use the INGAME FPS, hit the tilde ~ perfoverlay.drawfps 1 then hit enter.


----------



## Jetlitheone

So any monitor 400$ or less that will impress me? Have a Dell U2711 (I love it) just wondering if its worth getting one so I can overclock and just return my Dell..


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> So any monitor 400$ or less that will impress me? Have a Dell U2711 (I love it) just wondering if its worth getting one so I can overclock and just return my Dell..


I purchased mine soley on price, I didnt care if it was Qnix or X-star. I picked up the X-star from Dreamseller for $279 shipped. It arrived pixel perfect, no BLB and overclocked to 120hz.....SCORE....


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Sucks that your team lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW use the INGAME FPS, hit the tilde ~ perfoverlay.drawfps 1 then hit enter.


I prefer fraps. That game i just joined too. I just wanted to see how it looked... which was amazing ahahahha

Here's a crappy pic of my setup


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Taint3dBulge

I hope the cold doesnt hurt the panel at all. Its -1f outside plus windchill... -28 or so.. Darn cold... I wanna make sure i get it from outside asap..


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I purchased mine soley on price, I didnt care if it was Qnix or X-star. I picked up the X-star from Dreamseller for $279 shipped. It arrived pixel perfect, no BLB and overclocked to 120hz.....SCORE....


thats the one im trying to get the balls to purchase... ssuch a good price. I JUST CANT DO IT


----------



## GoEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I don't but will soon, and currently I just have 1 1440p while my other 3 are 1080p so its not unnatural, I have 1 1080 p in portrait as well. I'll upload a pic later.


That would be awesome, I'm trying to figure out how my 24" will go next to a 27". I've read that TN panels don't do well in portrait, why is this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is that a 27" or a 30' in that picture? I was looking into this when I had my previous 27" korean. Saw some pictures like that but turned out they were all with 30" dells. To get a monitor that would fit in portrait along with the 27" it was going to need to be extremely small, which meant really low res. That is of course if you want it to line up perfectly like it dies in the pic.


I believe it's a 30", which is why it looks so nice.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> I got mine, no dead pixels, no bleeding, plus they shipped it overnight for free
> 
> Although I'm not a fan of the blue led flashing when it's off or sleeping


It flashes blue when there's no signal. You can press the power button and get a solid red LED when it's off. I find the solid red to be slightly less irritating than the flashing blue.


----------



## mboner1

Well no matter what i do now i need to go into display settings and hit detect before it detects the 96hz after every restart. It's a pain in the ass. I don't know if it's windows 8.1 or the newest driver or cru not being updated or if i somehow wiped the edid info of the monitor. I even tried using a qnix display driver i found online and still need to detect manually. If anyone else is using the latest AMD drivers please let me know here if you face the same issues. Grrr.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

I'm on Windows 8.1 using 13.11 wqhl with an R 290 gpu. I do not have that issue. Mine registers as 96hz every time.


----------



## LunaP

Think I'm gonna give this a shot and see how well it works









http://www.asusparts.eu/en/Asus-04020-00780000

This should do well w/ covering the back for a modded version of debezling, may test.

http://www.asusparts.eu/en/Asus-13010-00050400


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> thats the one im trying to get the balls to purchase... ssuch a good price. I JUST CANT DO IT


DO IT!!!!!!! you wont be dissapointed.


----------



## The Storm

If any of you recieve import duties and taxes that live in the United States from FedEx you can have it fixed. It is an error on their behalf and they will fix it, A BIG THANK YOU to Yume on here who pointed me in the right direction to get this resolved. The Senior Manager at the Alaska duties facility took care of me and changed the classification. I spoke with her a few times today and she informed me that she now has the problem resolved and it should be corrected for any new monitors that come in from Korea through there post. So if any of you get billed from fedex get it resolved imediatly, if you wait so many days past they cannot correct it for you. Call the number at the bottom left of your bill on Page 4.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> I'm on Windows 8.1 using 13.11 wqhl with an R 290 gpu. I do not have that issue. Mine registers as 96hz every time.


Hmmm. Might have to give that a go. I'm running the latest beta. Do you have a issue where your mouse loads like a second after windows? On win7 my mouse was always ready but on win 8.1 it's behind and so is my external hdd, not sure if win8.1 is just loading quicker or if i'm having issues.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Hmmm. Might have to give that a go. I'm running the latest beta. Do you have a issue where your mouse loads like a second after windows? On win7 my mouse was always ready but on win 8.1 it's behind and so is my external hdd, not sure if win8.1 is just loading quicker or if i'm having issues.


You might be having issues, I am on Win 8.1 and my Hz setting always stays the way I leave it, and also my mouse is always there and loaded as soon as the screen loads.


----------



## dante`afk

Isn`t there some software that lets you put a space between both screens, so you can get effectively 120hz in window mode?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> You might be having issues, I am on Win 8.1 and my Hz setting always stays the way I leave it, and also my mouse is always there and loaded as soon as the screen loads.


I'm beginning to think so too. I had a bios flash go bad the other day on my mobo, usb port failed halfway through. Think i had to many things plugged into the front case ports, now this, might need a new mobo. guess i will try out the whql drivers and see how that plays out. cheers.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Hmmm. Might have to give that a go. I'm running the latest beta. Do you have a issue where your mouse loads like a second after windows? On win7 my mouse was always ready but on win 8.1 it's behind and so is my external hdd, not sure if win8.1 is just loading quicker or if i'm having issues.


Nope my mouse and ssd's are up and working the second 8.1 is up. I have mine boot right in to desktop and I'm usually immediately opening up chrome or something haha. Definitely might want to reinstall your bios, I have a feeling that could have more to do with it than your amd driver. But 13.11 wqhl has been perfectly reliable for me with games and such so it's not a bad idea trying it out anyways


----------



## MGMG8GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Alright thanks but that's not as confusing as Greensum, I asked him to once again confirm if it's gloss or matte as I explained it cannot be gloss AND matte else it would just be matte lol.
> 
> Here's his response.. Completely beats around the bush.
> 
> I've been, no change thus far, I set my monitor to sleep after 20-30 minutes of inactivity as well.


That is BS from Green-sum. They are selling tempered glass and matte panels. Their response to me was that since the tempered glass had a glossy look to it, it was glossy.

I have the tempered glass from him and it's very nice, I like it a lot. But it's not, in terms of monitor lingo, a glossy panel. It may be underneath the glass but who knows.


----------



## the9quad

Mine boots up fine, then the screen will flash once. After that flash, it's at 120hz.. I can live with that, as literally it's like a few seconds after boot up that this happens. On windows 8.1 with the latest Cat betas.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> thats the one im trying to get the balls to purchase... ssuch a good price. I JUST CANT DO IT


do it!!! nao!!!
Price dropped $10 $289 now for Glossy+Tempered glass.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGMG8GT*
> 
> That is BS from Green-sum. They are selling tempered glass and matte panels. Their response to me was that since the tempered glass had a glossy look to it, it was glossy.


Yeah I asked them to stop trying to explain things and just tell me, they're saying it matches the product description but the product description STATES that it's glossy lol. Pretty bad way of doing business if you ask me. If he responds matte underneath then I'll file another claim w/ Paypal which will be the 2nd one against him, and just purchase on amazon. Sick of dealing w/ sellers that can't give straight answers and feel the need for a biography.


----------



## MGMG8GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah I asked them to stop trying to explain things and just tell me, they're saying it matches the product description but the product description STATES that it's glossy lol. Pretty bad way of doing business if you ask me. If he responds matte underneath then I'll file another claim w/ Paypal which will be the 2nd one against him, and just purchase on amazon. Sick of dealing w/ sellers that can't give straight answers and feel the need for a biography.


This is what he told me. I don't think he has any idea what is under the glass but he states, effectively, that what he is selling is a matte panel with a piece of glass on it.
Quote:


> Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
> 
> Actually, tempered glass version is also glossy version as it is 'glossy'. The newest LG AH-IPS panel, which LG calls it as glossy, is a panel itself(people usually calls it 'glossy') + anti-glare coating(at this point, a matte panel) + tempered glass (glossy panel again). QNIX's panel is also like that. Hope you understand it.
> 
> Hope the answer above helps you. Please let us know if you have any questions.
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Green-Sum


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGMG8GT*
> 
> This is what he told me. Notice he purposefully stays away from matte in reference to the actual product he sold. I don't think he has any idea what is under the glass.


You just confirmed he stated gloss + AG coating ( essentially matte ) + glass = glossy again... jesus. We need to make a list of sellers and what they actually carry and what they don't (as opposed as to what they think they do )

I plan on debezeling mine, so guess what I lose the glass anyways when doing surround, so what then matte? Then remove all film, I don't want to deal w/ another polarizer issue again depending on how quickly these are assembled.


----------



## MGMG8GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> You just confirmed he stated gloss + AG coating ( essentially matte ) + glass = glossy again... jesus. We need to make a list of sellers and what they actually carry and what they don't (as opposed as to what they think they do )
> 
> I plan on debezeling mine, so guess what I lose the glass anyways when doing surround, so what then matte? Then remove all film, I don't want to deal w/ another polarizer issue again depending on how quickly these are assembled.


Yeah I re-read what he said a few times and finally gleamed that. He is effectively saying the glossy he is selling is a matte panel with a piece of glass is all.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGMG8GT*
> 
> Yeah I re-read what he said a few times and finally gleamed that. He is effectively saying the glossy he is selling is a matte panel with a piece of glass is all.


so what are our options now? This kinds ticks me off. Just the hassle of shipping it back sounds like a pain.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> so what are our options now? This kinds ticks me off. Just the hassle of shipping it back sounds like a pain.


If you're not gonna debezel and it looks fine then no issue I guess, but if you plan to then open a claim w/ Ebay. Product is not what you ordered or Product does not match description. I have 4 feedbacks I'm entitled to him atm so I'm gonna give 4 negative. That should change things up.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If you're not gonna debezel and it looks fine then no issue I guess, but if you plan to then open a claim w/ Ebay. Product is not what you ordered or Product does not match description. I have 4 feedbacks I'm entitled to him atm so I'm gonna give 4 negative. That should change things up.


They would pay for return shipping? I just left Green-Sum negative feedback myself.

I would eventually get to debezeling. Just not right now









"eBay Money Back Guarantee has got you covered. We're here to help.
Seller's return policy for this item
This item must be returned within 14 days after the buyer receives it. The buyer pays for return shipping. The refund will be given as Money Back.
More details from the seller:
Restocking fees: No"

Not bad Ebay. I just wish these sellers would change the description!!!

I'm still satisfied but I want the best damnit lol. Can't complain too much for $300 though..


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Nope my mouse and ssd's are up and working the second 8.1 is up. I have mine boot right in to desktop and I'm usually immediately opening up chrome or something haha. Definitely might want to reinstall your bios, I have a feeling that could have more to do with it than your amd driver. But 13.11 wqhl has been perfectly reliable for me with games and such so it's not a bad idea trying it out anyways


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Mine boots up fine, then the screen will flash once. After that flash, it's at 120hz.. I can live with that, as literally it's like a few seconds after boot up that this happens. On windows 8.1 with the latest Cat betas.


Will try and keep this short.. Well mine just keeps getting weirder and weirder, tried 13.11 whql and mouse worked fine at startup then overclocked the monitor and everything went slow so i thought alright it's the overclock...

Then i installed 13.11 beta 9.5 without overclock to make sure and nope, slow to load again, I installed the overclock anyway and it didn't show up. Then i uninstalled the drivers, moved my mouse from usb3 to usb2 port, removed external hdd and connected to onboard graphics and connected to the tv and installed 13.11 beta 9.4 lol, rebooted and all was good, disconnected from tv and connected to qnix rebooted and all was good, overclocked rebooted and the mouse worked and the overclock worked and all was good, connected external hdd and put mouse back into usb3 and have rebooted several times and mouse loads at start up fine, external drive loads fine, overclock loads fine, so i have no idea what's going on. I'm a little scared it's the mobo going bad with the correlation to the usb ports but who knows, like i said earlier i have ran u driver cleaning utility yesterday that i think may have stuffed with windows picking up the overclock and maybe connecting my tv then the monitor forced it to re register whatever it lost. Time will tell i guess. + rep to you guys.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I took some pics of what they sent me as glossy, seems glossy to me, hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quick question, if you poke the screen with your finger, does it leave an imprint against the screen like with typical matte screens? If not, it's glass.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Will try and keep this short.. Well mine just keeps getting weirder and weirder, tried 13.11 whql and mouse worked fine at startup then overclocked the monitor and everything went slow so i thought alright it's the overclock...
> 
> Then i installed 13.11 beta 9.5 without overclock to make sure and nope, slow to load again, I installed the overclock anyway and it didn't show up. Then i uninstalled the drivers, moved my mouse from usb3 to usb2 port, removed external hdd and connected to onboard graphics and connected to the tv and installed 13.11 beta 9.4 lol, rebooted and all was good, disconnected from tv and connected to qnix rebooted and all was good, overclocked rebooted and the mouse worked and the overclock worked and all was good, connected external hdd and put mouse back into usb3 and have rebooted several times and mouse loads at start up fine, external drive loads fine, overclock loads fine, so i have no idea what's going on. I'm a little scared it's the mobo going bad with the correlation to the usb ports but who knows, like i said earlier i have ran u driver cleaning utility yesterday that i think may have stuffed with windows picking up the overclock and maybe connecting my tv then the monitor forced it to re register whatever it lost. Time will tell i guess. + rep to you guys.


That's insane LOL but hey whatever works! Lets hope it stays like this, but I agree it's probably in the mobo


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quick question, if you poke the screen with your finger, does it leave an imprint against the screen like with typical matte screens? If not, it's glass.


must be glass, is that bad?>


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> must be glass, is that bad?>


Not at all. I think yours is also matte finish panel +tempered glass.

green-sum = You're ******* out
love east bound and down btw


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Not at all. I think yours is also matte finish panel +tempered glass.


I really wouldnt know how to tell. It's pretty reflective to be honest, and when I flick my finger on it, it doesn't feel like glass. If I turn the monitor off, it's like a mirror, also on dark screens.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> That's insane LOL but hey whatever works! Lets hope it stays like this, but I agree it's probably in the mobo


Don't say that lol. It did it again anyway, and i removed the external hard drive and it's all good., i have restarted like 15 times and the overclock is there and my mouse is loading at start up. The hard drive is old and might just be to slow to keep up with win8.1 and ssd loading times ? I have no idea how the external hard drive failing could cause the overclock to not register tho,it could still be the mobo and usb ports. Just gonna grab a 2tb internal drive and call it a day i think. If that doesn't fix it then a new mother board is on the cards. Cheers. I hate troubleshooting, sorry for goin off topic everyone lol.


----------



## VegetarianEater

finally got a chance to check out my qnix using my friend's computer, and it's freakin amazing, haven't noticed any major flaws yet. Can't wait to build my computer next week and start gaming at 1440p!


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Don't say that lol. It did it again anyway, and i removed the external hard drive and it's all good., i have restarted like 15 times and the overclock is there and my mouse is loading at start up. The hard drive is old and might just be to slow to keep up with win8.1 and ssd loading times ? I have no idea how the external hard drive failing could cause the overclock to not register tho,it could still be the mobo and usb ports. Just gonna grab a 2tb internal drive and call it a day i think. If that doesn't fix it then a new mother board is on the cards. Cheers. I hate troubleshooting, sorry for goin off topic everyone lol.


Yea I'm still thinking mobo then since it's probably usb related rather than drive... well if the drive is just plain out dying that could be an issue. Have you updated your usb drivers for said mobo? I have a 1tb storage drive and a 700gig usb external drive hooked up to mine at all times just about as well.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Yea I'm still thinking mobo then since it's probably usb related rather than drive... well if the drive is just plain out dying that could be an issue. Have you updated your usb drivers for said mobo? I have a 1tb storage drive and a 700gig usb external drive hooked up to mine at all times just about as well.


I installed all the drivers from here, no usb drivers that i could tell tho.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z77%20Extreme4/?cat=Download&os=Win8a

I really don't know what to do as far as troubleshooting the motherboard other than waiting for flat out failure to boot or something. I think i will just try booting with heaps of flash drives plugged in and see what happens lol.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

LOL!!! That's one way to try it









Was there an issue on the previous bios for your board that made you go to the latest? If not then I'd say roll back to the previous bios and see if that helps.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I installed all the drivers from here, no usb drivers that i could tell tho.
> 
> http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z77%20Extreme4/?cat=Download&os=Win8a
> 
> I really don't know what to do as far as troubleshooting the motherboard other than waiting for flat out failure to boot or something. I think i will just try booting with heaps of flash drives plugged in and see what happens lol.


Also I found that you are not alone in this problem...

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=709109


----------



## maka12

Just received my xstar Dp2710 led from dreamseller paid 211 pound for pixel perfect with free shipping, ordered last Thursday,
it looks amazing not 1 dead pixel and no light bleed, really happy with it, overclocked it to 96htz runs Battlefield 4 perfect. just hope it lasts.

Is the Square trade insurance worth getting, anyone got it? or had to use it?

thanks
maka


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maka12*
> 
> Just received my xstar Dp2710 led from dreamseller paid 211 pound for pixel perfect with free shipping, ordered last Thursday,
> it looks amazing not 1 dead pixel and no light bleed, really happy with it, overclocked it to 96htz runs Battlefield 4 perfect. just hope it lasts.
> 
> Is the Square trade insurance worth getting, anyone got it? or had to use it?
> 
> thanks
> maka


I purchased the square trade warranty. I read where another member had to use it and it worked out great. Square trade paid the shipping to them, they could not repair it, and refunded their money for the price paid of the monitor.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Also I found that you are not alone in this problem...
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=709109


Your a champ man. Well it looks like its a well known issue and possibly not a sign of complete failure and might even get fixed by a bios update. Guess I will just have to pick and choose which ports I plug things into and how many, would have been nice to know before I attempted a bios update over USB tho lol. My internet is down as well now lol but I'm just being churned haha if I was smarter I wouldn't have got a new GPU, updated the bios andinstalled win8.1 and changed isp's all in the same week so that if issues did arise I could troubleshoot easier haha. Live and learn.


----------



## maka12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I purchased the square trade warranty. I read where another member had to use it and it worked out great. Square trade paid the shipping to them, they could not repair it, and refunded their money for the price paid of the monitor.


Great will buy it now
thanks


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Your a champ man. Well it looks like its a well known issue and possibly not a sign of complete failure and might even get fixed by a bios update. Guess I will just have to pick and choose which ports I plug things into and how many, would have been nice to know before I attempted a bios update over USB tho lol. My internet is down as well now lol but I'm just being churned haha if I was smarter I wouldn't have got a new GPU, updated the bios andinstalled win8.1 and changed isp's all in the same week so that if issues did arise I could troubleshoot easier haha. Live and learn.


Nice... knowing is half the battle!


----------



## mage182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maka12*
> 
> Just received my xstar Dp2710 led from dreamseller paid 211 pound for pixel perfect with free shipping, ordered last Thursday,
> it looks amazing not 1 dead pixel and no light bleed, really happy with it, overclocked it to 96htz runs Battlefield 4 perfect. just hope it lasts.
> 
> Is the Square trade insurance worth getting, anyone got it? or had to use it?
> 
> thanks
> maka


My monitor is in shipping now but I already bought a 3yr SquareTrade contract for it just to be safe. I found a 40% off coupon so the 3 years only came to $25 bucks. A small price to pay for protection.


----------



## honeylaunebaer

hi guys, first post here cause i cant find an answer anywhere:

I really want a double 27" Qnix Setup but i only own a AMD A10-6800K (Mainboard has no DP, only HDMI and DVI-D (ASRock FM2A85X-ITX)

Is the GPU capable of running 2 displays at 2560x1440? I'm fine with gaming only on one screen and at upscaled Full HD - my problem right now is that I'm not sure if i can get a signal on the 2nd screen using a HDMI--> DVI-D Cable like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-HDTV-HD-5ft-Gold-24-1-DVI-D-Male-to-Male-HDMI-Cable-/181224265474?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2a31ced702

Would even 1 screen run on the DVI-D exit of the mainboard?

i really would appreciate your help.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

so would you guys go for the standard x-star and add the 3year square trade or get the pixel perfect for about the same price?


----------



## chalamah

Hello!

Thinking about pulling the trigger on a glossy qnix.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130922075493?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I do have a question before I go ahead.

To pixel perfect, or not to pixel perfect? I have read the first post with reguards to this not affecting your chances but would like another opinion on this please. Someone made a very good point that if the supplier actually checks for monitors being pixel perfect, the ones that are not perfect would then be shipped to customers that did not pay extra. Making the chance of getting a defective one higher. Or do they not check at all, and perfect pixel just means if it's not perfect you can send it back for free?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> so would you guys go for the standard x-star and add the 3year square trade or get the pixel perfect for about the same price?


Standard and 3yr warranty. Its known that there is no difference in pixel perfect and regular.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

can i purchase the warrenty after i buy the monitor or afterwards? i found a coupon for %30 off so im not sure when i can use it


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> can i purchase the warrenty after i buy the monitor or afterwards? i found a coupon for %30 off so im not sure when i can use it


Yes as far as I know you can buy the warranty for your monitor after you purchase it.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chalamah*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> Thinking about pulling the trigger on a glossy qnix.
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130922075493?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> I do have a question before I go ahead.
> 
> To pixel perfect, or not to pixel perfect? I have read the first post with reguards to this not affecting your chances but would like another opinion on this please. Someone made a very good point that if the supplier actually checks for monitors being pixel perfect, the ones that are not perfect would then be shipped to customers that did not pay extra. Making the chance of getting a defective one higher. Or do they not check at all, and perfect pixel just means if it's not perfect you can send it back for free?


It's really not worth it. Save your money and just go for the regular one. I received mine yesterday with zero pixel defects except for some black light bleeding. $299.00


----------



## snowpetrel

I decided to go for pixel perfect, but just because it was only 20 dollars difference between that one and the next cheapest at the time.
I don't think you should go over 330-350 to get pixel perfect; else it is not worth it.

Be careful that you read their definition of pixel perfect though! Some sellers consider up to 3 dead pixels or so "pixel perfect'. Good luck finding what you like


----------



## travanx

Ordered a pixel perfect Qnix matte from wordlbest365. Can't wait to pair this with my 2 HP LP2475W's. Can't wait. When does the tracking normally arrive?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *travanx*
> 
> Ordered a pixel perfect Qnix matte from wordlbest365. Can't wait to pair this with my 2 HP LP2475W's. Can't wait. When does the tracking normally arrive?


Depending on what time it is over in Korea. Usually anywhere from 12-24 hours.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> can i purchase the warrenty after i buy the monitor or afterwards? i found a coupon for %30 off so im not sure when i can use it


Is your coupon one time use? If not could u give it to me? I have been looking for a code so I can square trade mine.

Thanks.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I have 3 of these monitors mounted, and I am looking to get them debezeled and painted and ready to be mounted again. The issue is the tutorials look a bit to complex for myself, wondering if anyone on here is in Ottawa and has experience?


Anyone? My last try asking, cause I know it's a long shot on these forums.


----------



## LunaP

Both my monitors arrived time to unpack them.

Yup even though it's got glass, and a reflection I can tell the diff of the sharpness, which def tells me its matte behind it, and it's auto taking the same settings as my main monitor, anyways to get them to take separate settings? Or rename one ?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Both my monitors arrived time to unpack them.
> 
> Yup even though it's got glass, and a reflection I can tell the diff of the sharpness, which def tells me its matte behind it, and it's auto taking the same settings as my main monitor, anyways to get them to take separate settings? Or rename one ?


Will you be removing the glass and matte finish?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Will you be removing the glass and matte finish?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


I actually don't mind the glass at this point in time just worried about later when I actually go to debezel it, also I feel like theres an input lag atm, I have both @ 96hz but as I"m typing lol I'm watching my words type themselves after I finish, its a slight off beat, though could be something else? meh.

Probably just need to restart, even backspace is slow, I'll do it after I pop out the 3rd one. Apparently the screws needed to mount these are shorter than average as the other ones I just put on my old one are actually to long D:


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Anyone? My last try asking, cause I know it's a long shot on these forums.


Doubt it. Looks like you're on your own.


----------



## Mbalmer

I am building my dad a computer (Mom is paying, not me) for Christmas and I want to know if it will work with a 1440p monitor. I have a Qnix 2700 that I bought last year that I am going to give him because I recently purchased an X-star because the Qnix was one that wouldn't overclock because it was the previous model.

This is the monitor I am giving him:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Inch-Qnix-LED-QX2700-S-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Quad-HD-Monitor-New-/160933563920?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2578634e10

This is the motherboard information with a picture of the DVI input. (You might have to open/zoom the picture)
http://us.msi.com/product/mb/FM2-A85XMA-E35.html#/?div=Detail

This is the computer I am going to put together because of the help I got in THIS thread.

CPU AMD A8-6600K 3.9GHz Quad-Core $104.74
Motherboard MSI FM2-A85XMA-E35 Micro ATX FM2 $64.99
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 $59.99
Storage Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" SSD $89.35
Case XION XON-560 mATX/ ITX Meshed Mini Tower Case, USB 3.0, Black/Blue LED 29.99
Power Supply Antec 380W ATX12V / EPS12V $44.98
Operating System Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) $82.99
Mouse Gigabyte GM-M6800 Wired Optical $14.98

I know in the Ebay add it says you have to have a graphics card but he is not playing games. He will use this computer for chatting in Civil War forums, selling a lot of stuff on Ebay that he uploads pictures for, and watching youtube videos. He really won't be doing anything else with it.

Will This Work???

Thanks!!


----------



## LunaP

Was surprised to see the packing. He might've taken my advice about UPS lol that or they always do this , dunno, previous seller sent it as is w/ nothing protective.



Since the screws are to long have to get new ones before putting them on props, the right monitor's colors aren't as flush as the others, attempting to calibrate but may juts be a bad one or an IPS, gonna probably return it and try again neither of these have bad pixels or blb.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Both my monitors arrived time to unpack them.
> 
> Yup even though it's got glass, and a reflection I can tell the diff of the sharpness, which def tells me its matte behind it, and it's auto taking the same settings as my main monitor, anyways to get them to take separate settings? Or rename one ?


This is why i think mines glossy, it's just sharper than the asus pb278q and i can see a reflection on the inside on the glass from text if i look straight down from above , can you??

Just to finalize on my issues of the overclock not applying at restart and mouse lagging at start up, it seemed to be because i had them (mouse and hdd) plugged into usb3.0 ports and the asrock z77 extreme 4 needs a intel usb driver and a Asmedia usb 3.0 driver for some stupid reason, and for some even stupider reason there is no mention or link to it on the motherboard driver page, installed the asmedia driver and it's fixed.


----------



## lightsout

Luna that's how my broken one came. Are you referring to the bubble wrap or the sticker? Or both? Nice setup BTW. Like the book collection.


----------



## travanx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Depending on what time it is over in Korea. Usually anywhere from 12-24 hours.


Just got my tracking info at midnight PST going through UPS.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *travanx*
> 
> Just got my tracking info at midnight PST going through UPS.


Hope it isn't smashed, I got one from UPS that was smashed.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Mine came UPS and all is well.... but I have had some bad luck with them in the past too







But that also goes for Fed-ex and I've never had luck with DHeLL

Update on my monitor... After playing BF4 for quite a while with the 96hz refresh rate and an avg of 90fps I am just floored. I had to scoop my jaw up off the ground a few times and I got annihilated my first couple rounds because I was in shock at how amazing it looks and just how incredibly smooth it is now! (coming from 60hz and 1080p)

WOOOOOOOOOOOOO!


----------



## HeyBear

Not sure if It's normal, but a few of the listings that I had been watching jumped up in price over the last couple of days ($50 or so if I remember correctly) Hopefully it's just a few sellers trying to capitalise on the Christmas rush and not a general trend...


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Mine came UPS and all is well.... but I have had some bad luck with them in the past too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that also goes for Fed-ex and I've never had luck with DHeLL
> 
> Update on my monitor... After playing BF4 for quite a while with the 96hz refresh rate and an avg of 90fps I am just floored. I had to scoop my jaw up off the ground a few times and I got annihilated my first couple rounds because I was in shock at how amazing it looks and just how incredibly smooth it is now! (coming from 60hz and 1080p)
> 
> WOOOOOOOOOOOOO!


Not to be a debbie downer, but these monitors produce a lot more blur then 120hz tn panels. Even if you get these guys to 120hZ, its not the same. That being said... man I know how you feel. I came from 1680x1050 22" 120hz... the image quality at this size is ridiculous. Ive got mine setup at 96hz too and I can pull that framerate as well... its unbelievable.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Not sure if It's normal, but a few of the listings that I had been watching jumped up in price over the last couple of days ($50 or so if I remember correctly) Hopefully it's just a few sellers trying to capitalise on the Christmas rush and not a general trend...


Yea the seller I bought from went from 299 US to 406 US. (Storewithstorey). Probably holiday a thing


----------



## kangel433

Just received the Qnix today. No dead pixel, minimal blb, but there's a slight yellow tint on the bottom 3/4th of the screen.
It OCs to 120hz without scanlines, but then the top right side becomes very dark as well. So I'm guessing 96hz will be the way to go with mine.

Input lag is noticeable to me compared to the asus vg248 (and the blurr/ghosting compared to lightboost), but not as bad as I expected.
This monitor is definitely nice for everything non-gaming related.

Is the yellow tint on the lower side of the screen normal? or should I be looking into RMA'ing


----------



## Anusha

Add me up folks. Just got my QX2710.



I'm in Japan and it took about a week to arrive at home. But I ordered it on a Saturday morning and they were not operating in the weekend so they received the order only on Monday. So, 5 days actually.

I told the seller to put the price as $100 so that i won't be charged duties. and they didn't charge me any. so glad! DHL was the shipper. within the country, they used Sagawa as the courier. they probably wouldn't have charged duties anyways, but i didn't want to take the chance.

about the monitor though, there is no backlight bleeding that i can notice. (if there is some bleeding, it is same as the old Iiyama 27" 1080p display i had before this) and no dead pixels that i can see. i got one with pixel perfect guarantee. unfortunately, it cannot hit 120Hz. it can hit 96Hz though. 108Hz also doesn't work. i'm going to keep it at 96Hz for now. maybe there is a way i can get 120Hz.

still getting used to the size of the text. they are so small .

man now i need a powerful GPU. GTX670 doesn't quite cut it when playing Crysis 3 MP.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> Add me up folks. Just got my QX2710.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in Japan and it took about a week to arrive at home. But I ordered it on a Saturday morning and they were not operating in the weekend so they received the order only on Monday. So, 5 days actually.
> 
> I told the seller to put the price as $100 so that i won't be charged duties. and they didn't charge me any. so glad! DHL was the shipper. within the country, they used Sagawa as the courier. they probably wouldn't have charged duties anyways, but i didn't want to take the chance.
> 
> about the monitor though, there is no backlight bleeding that i can notice. (if there is some bleeding, it is same as the old Iiyama 27" 1080p display i had before this) and no dead pixels that i can see. i got one with pixel perfect guarantee. unfortunately, it cannot hit 120Hz. it can hit 96Hz though. 108Hz also doesn't work. i'm going to keep it at 96Hz for now. maybe there is a way i can get 120Hz.
> 
> still getting used to the size of the text. they are so small .
> 
> man now i need a powerful GPU. GTX670 doesn't quite cut it when playing Crysis 3 MP.


Mine won't go over 100Hz either. I bought another DVI cable to test. Hopefully that's the fix. If not, 96 is fine :-D

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## FatalProximity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Mine won't go over 100Hz either. I bought another DVI cable to test. Hopefully that's the fix. If not, 96 is fine :-D
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Let us know if the better DVI cable helps! might get one for mine when my monitor gets here


----------



## mmille24

These dropped a bit in price. I keep seeing everyone ordering Qnix the last few pages. Is there still no difference between the two?

The X-Star is now 279...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

Any reason why I shouldn't pull the trigger on the X-Star?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Luna that's how my broken one came. Are you referring to the bubble wrap or the sticker? Or both? Nice setup BTW. Like the book collection.


Bubble wrap lol, and thanks its just the first 3, stretches for a while
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> Add me up folks. Just got my QX2710.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in Japan and it took about a week to arrive at home. But I ordered it on a Saturday morning and they were not operating in the weekend so they received the order only on Monday. So, 5 days actually.
> 
> I told the seller to put the price as $100 so that i won't be charged duties. and they didn't charge me any. so glad! DHL was the shipper. within the country, they used Sagawa as the courier. they probably wouldn't have charged duties anyways, but i didn't want to take the chance.
> 
> about the monitor though, there is no backlight bleeding that i can notice. (if there is some bleeding, it is same as the old Iiyama 27" 1080p display i had before this) and no dead pixels that i can see. i got one with pixel perfect guarantee. unfortunately, it cannot hit 120Hz. it can hit 96Hz though. 108Hz also doesn't work. i'm going to keep it at 96Hz for now. maybe there is a way i can get 120Hz.
> 
> still getting used to the size of the text. they are so small .
> 
> man now i need a powerful GPU. GTX670 doesn't quite cut it when playing Crysis 3 MP.


You can adjust the dpi in the desktop settings, for the font, and sadly I instantly recognized japan from the corner of your photo where the slidering doors are haha, and if I'm not mistaken that small green corner is the edge of your tatami mat?







I miss it so bad there, lived there for 3+ years in the Kanagawa area in Honcho Yokosuka.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Mine won't go over 100Hz either. I bought another DVI cable to test. Hopefully that's the fix. If not, 96 is fine :-D
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


All 3 of mine hit 120 easily though I'm staying @ 100/110, verify the cable at least supports 9.9 gb/s there are many that only do 2.3 and 3.2 which shouldn't even be regarded as DVI-D probably for the old 2048x1536.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatalProximity*
> 
> Let us know if the better DVI cable helps! might get one for mine when my monitor gets here


Usually does
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> These dropped a bit in price. I keep seeing everyone ordering Qnix the last few pages. Is there still no difference between the two?
> 
> The X-Star is now 279...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e
> 
> Any reason why I shouldn't pull the trigger on the X-Star?


They're both the same panel so you're fine w/ either. I have both now.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> These dropped a bit in price. I keep seeing everyone ordering Qnix the last few pages. Is there still no difference between the two?
> 
> The X-Star is now 279...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e
> 
> Any reason why I shouldn't pull the trigger on the X-Star?


From the pictures, the stand looks exactly the same. So I have no idea. Unless there is different or more outputs but it's the exact same panel in the exact same case. I just with Qnix because a lot of people were recommending that one.

edit: Nope. Same DVI-D and everything else is identical. So yea, its the same.


----------



## criminal

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

Worth getting?


----------



## mmille24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> They're both the same panel so you're fine w/ either. I have both now.


Thanks!

Also, the glossy QNIX is going for 289 now. Which is also a drop for those that are looking for one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Also, the glossy QNIX is going for 289 now. Which is also a drop for those that are looking for one...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3


It's not glossy sadly lol it's just glass to make it look that way, he's probably raising prices due to the amount of returns. Holiday pricing would raise more if it was the case. I'm shipping one of mine back to him later, need to order one more. He emailed back though claiming it's gloss underneath. We'll see I'm gonna probably prop open the bad one just to look.


----------



## TelFiRE

There's no difference. Same panel. Same stand, in most cases from what I've seen, although the stands aren't always uniform with either.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Well guys im going to do it... getting the xstar for 279 and prob a square trade warrenty. Iv been draging my feet for more then 3 months. Just need to do it and deal with any probs when they come. Wish me luck


----------



## TelFiRE

Do it fo sho! I got one, never lookin back. In fact since it doesn't play nice with my other two 1080 27 inch monitors for nvidia surround, I'll likely sell them both and buy 2 more!


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Just a quick crappy photo with me phone... looks good..

Zero blb and no dead pixels that I can see.. Worth every penny.. Plus shiped and to my door step in 2 days free shipping.. ha.. whats not to like.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Holy **** i did it.... hope i get a good one.


----------



## PvT Parts

Hey just bought me a Qnix!

Been reading this forum for like 3 weeks to see how these Korean PLS monitors have been working out for people. Been super impressed from what I've read and bought mine Sunday night. I'm already impressed by how freaking fast the shipping are on these things for free shipping that is. I still have 2 items I ordered a week ago and still haven't got them even though they're located in CA lolz....

So quick question are IPS/PLS monitors vulnerable to any kind of cold weather damage? Cause I am actually supposed to get mine delivered today but it got held up in KY and didn't make in time due to the weather I guess. So its probably sitting in a trailer outside the building until tomorrow morning and its starting to get pretty dam cold here in MN.

Also new here be gentle


----------



## cipp

Just to clarify, there are no customs/import fees for US residents, right? The FAQ doesn't mention USA and the thread search brings up godawful results. I'm almost certain there's a free trade agreement between the US and Korea but some people have told me they were charged $13+3% when buying


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> you give us gloss lovers hope!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just realized I made some veritcal scratches on my screen from the static cloth used for cleaning these, feeling the cloth it was rough, *** LOL can only see it from the side so debating returning it now but the colors/brightness and everything is so damn perfect.... sigh I wonder if I can even return it w/ the matte film off after complaining it was matte LOL. Maybe I'll say it started to peel.


You're a very honest human being. You want to return a monitor that you screwed yourself? Sounds good.


----------



## Ovrclck

Bizaroo is sending me comparison photos of their Glossy +tempered and matte. Looks like they are actually real and not just copy paste like most ebay sellers lol. They may be the only ones actually stating "gloss" with no matte underneath.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> And just realized *I made some veritcal scratches on my screen* from the static cloth used for cleaning these, feeling the cloth it was rough, *** LOL can only see it from the side so *debating returning it now* but the colors/brightness and everything is so damn perfect.... sigh I wonder if I can even return it w/ the matte film off after complaining it was matte LOL. *Maybe I'll say it started to peel.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Noone else would it'd go back to the factory lol, *it was a bad panel to begin w/ if the polarizer wasn't on properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yeah I asked them to stop trying to explain things and just tell me, they're saying it matches the product description but the product description STATES that it's glossy lol. Pretty bad way of doing business if you ask me. If he responds matte underneath then I'll file another claim w/ Paypal which will be the 2nd one against him, and just purchase on amazon. Sick of dealing w/ sellers that can't give straight answers and feel the need for a biography.


I bet they'd be pretty sick of dealing with dishonest customers too. You never know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I plan on debezeling mine, so guess what I lose the glass anyways when doing surround, so what then matte? Then remove all film, *I don't want to deal w/ another polarizer issue again depending on how quickly these are assembled.*


Or how quickly you are to screw with them. But it doesn't matter, you can return them right? Take a couple more chances after that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Was surprised to see the packing. He might've taken my advice about UPS lol that or they always do this , dunno, previous seller sent it as is w/ nothing protective.
> 
> 
> 
> Since the screws are to long have to get new ones before putting them on props, the right monitor's colors aren't as flush as the others, attempting to calibrate but may juts be a bad one or an IPS, *gonna probably return it and try again neither of these have bad pixels or blb.*


Don't forget to screw with it first, tell them it's peeling off and you feel bad about their shoddy construction.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> It's not glossy sadly lol it's just glass to make it look that way, he's probably raising prices due to the amount of returns. Holiday pricing would raise more if it was the case. I'm shipping one of mine back to him later, need to order one more. He emailed back though claiming it's gloss underneath. We'll see I'm gonna probably prop open the bad one just to look.


What's with all the hate for lunaP all of a sudden. Give the guy a break. Nice work with the monitors man they look sweet.

So I have lost track of what you ended up with, is it 3 tempered glass and you reckon only 1 of them is matte underneath?


----------



## motorwayne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I bet they'd be pretty sick of dealing with dishonest customers too. You never know.
> Or how quickly you are to screw with them. But it doesn't matter, you can return them right? Take a couple more chances after that.
> Don't forget to screw with it first, tell them it's peeling off and you feel bad about their shoddy construction.


Guess it just depends on how much you want to lie to a company that is trying to do you a service, doesn't it.


----------



## cipp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motorwayne*
> 
> Guess it just depends on how much you want to lie to a company that is trying to do you a service, doesn't it.


Yeah.. if I accidentally scratched one of these monitors I'd take responsibility for it and live with it. I guess if someone was either A) Broke or B) a scumbag, they might try to game the return system to get a new monitor.. this is why we can't have nice things


----------



## Darkest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> What's with all the hate for lunaP all of a sudden. Give the guy a break. Nice work with the monitors man they look sweet.
> 
> So I have lost track of what you ended up with, is it 3 tempered glass and you reckon only 1 of them is matte underneath?


Maybe it has something to do with his outright dishonesty and terrible attitude? I don't know, just maybe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Yeah.. if I accidentally scratched one of these monitors I'd take responsibility for it and live with it. I guess if someone was either A) Broke or B) a scumbag, they might try to game the return system to get a new monitor.. this is why we can't have nice things


Exactly. Good to know some people still have morals.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkest*
> 
> Maybe it has something to do with his outright dishonesty and terrible attitude? I don't know, just maybe.
> Exactly. Good to know some people still have morals.


Your morals don't have to be everyone else's , just sayin.

I wouldn't try and get my money back either but that's for eBay and PayPal to decide, not the moral police on here. Give the guy a break, he has been quite helpful on here.


----------



## Darkest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Your morals don't have to be everyone else's , just sayin.
> 
> I wouldn't try and get my money back either but that's for eBay and PayPal to decide, not the moral police on here. Give the guy a break, he has been quite helpful on here.


Of course they don't, in the same respect a thief obviously has different morals to most other people.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> *Your morals don't have to be everyone else's , just sayin.*
> 
> I wouldn't try and get my money back either but that's for eBay and PayPal to decide, not the moral police on here. Give the guy a break, he has been quite helpful on here.


We are indeed thinking of ourselves. We end up paying higher prices and returns become more difficult.

Who cares about those sellers on the other side of the globe, I'm a selfish greedy bastard. Actually, I would encourage the practice of everyone screwing their own monitors and returning them just because they are nice chaps that deserve to pay return shipping.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Okay guys I have a serious question I bought a Dell Ultrasharp u2711 and im kind of worried it might crap out on me (bought refurb from dell) is there any monitor that would be equal to it and could possibly overclock? Thanks!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> You're a very honest human being. You want to return a monitor that you screwed yourself? Sounds good.


I think you need to try a little bit harder when reading you'd correct yourself








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Bizaroo is sending me comparison photos of their Glossy +tempered and matte. Looks like they are actually real and not just copy paste like most ebay sellers lol. They may be the only ones actually stating "gloss" with no matte underneath.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


That's the other Amazon one right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I bet they'd be pretty sick of dealing with dishonest customers too. You never know.
> Or how quickly you are to screw with them. But it doesn't matter, you can return them right? Take a couple more chances after that.
> Don't forget to screw with it first, tell them it's peeling off and you feel bad about their shoddy construction.


Again w/ the "I read 1 post and now I'm convinced this was all that there was"







Please do attempt to read a bit more before you overexert yourself in attempting to call people out







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Yeah.. if I accidentally scratched one of these monitors I'd take responsibility for it and live with it. I guess if someone was either A) Broke or B) a scumbag, they might try to game the return system to get a new monitor.. this is why we can't have nice things


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkest*
> 
> Maybe it has something to do with his outright dishonesty and terrible attitude? I don't know, just maybe.
> Exactly. Good to know some people still have morals.
> 
> Of course they don't, in the same respect a thief obviously has different morals to most other people.


This post is exactly my point on the effect of 1 person skipping over and looking @ specific words and starting chaos, that everyone else jumps on









Wow you guys are quick to jump at something that someone completely twisted, vs just going off 1 person's reply how about going a bit further back? Almost looks as if everyones on the same IP as well but what do I know right?









a) I didn't get this monitor from the ebay seller I was complaining about
b) There were issues to begin with in which the monitor was already considered defective (i.e the polarizer)
c) Noone else would get this monitor unless you enjoy buying refurbished broken ones, which I've already found this seller is selling from his replies

The initial monitor in question was originally received as not described and defective, I attempted to make use of it, though the seller was already ready to have it shipped back and sent back RMA'd due to this, it CANNOT be resold in this condition regardless. That is prior to what I did to it.

2nd Jesus christ people are uptight it was meant as a JOKE / Saracasm hence the face, WELCOME TO THE INTERNETZ









3rd Trolls will be Trolls and h8r's gonna h8









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Who cares about those sellers on the other side of the globe*, I'm a selfish greedy bastard.* Actually, I would encourage the practice of everyone screwing their own monitors and returning them just because they are nice chaps that deserve to pay return shipping.


Thank you for at least being honest


----------



## Sylphanos

Currently i am doing the tape mod to fix my backlight bleed.
removed the metal frame taped it and put everything back together, but then i noticed somehing on the back casing.

I dont know if anyone has brought this up yet but from pictures/video's(from different people) i have seen some of the rubber/foam spacers are missing or they are on other places.
And everyone has them on other spots/missing. Can this be a cause for backlight bleed and other things aswell?

for comparison here is mine:


compared to the video in the OP mine are all different and other spacer heights aswell


----------



## cipp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Your morals don't have to be everyone else's , just sayin.
> 
> I wouldn't try and get my money back either but that's for eBay and PayPal to decide, not the moral police on here. Give the guy a break, he has been quite helpful on here.


Terms and Conditions do _not_ decide what it is _right_ and _wrong_ in terms of morality. They define the lines of acceptable and intolerable use of their business..

Just because he has answered a few posts does not mean he's entitled to blatantly rip off a seller.. you can tell he's even _proud_ of the idea since he announced it to the world, which is worse.

It's okay to stand up for what's right and denounce those who do wrong, you don't have to sit on the sideline.


----------



## Darkest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 2nd Jesus christ people are uptight it was meant as a JOKE / Saracasm hence the face, WELCOME TO THE INTERNETZ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd Trolls will be Trolls and h8r's gonna h8


Of course it was. Keep it up kid


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkest*
> 
> Of course it was. Keep it up kid


Thank you, and as a suggestion you should stick to 1 account for trolling vs many


----------



## Darkest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thank you, and as a suggestion you should stick to 1 account for trolling vs many


What are you talking about? This is my only account on OCnet, I actually made it because I saw your posts. That is honestly, regardless of what you believe, the only reason I'm here. I was outright disgusted with the fact you had heavily modified a monitor and then intended to return it under false pretenses. The fact is I still am, but that's another issue. If you don't believe me feel free to ask your moderators, they can check my I.P and verify that for you.


----------



## yasamoka

@LunaP: I'm sorry, my text parser only reads up to 50 characters before it's full and I feel the need to urinate. So it took some time to reply to your post.

It didn't look like a joke to me, but again, on further inspection, I would have understood it as a joke starting from the 57th character which I had the unfortunate incident of not being able to read. Sincere apologies to your kindest of hearts.

I would claim that if you got it from the seller you were complaining about, _you would have every right to screw it and return it_ since it would only be fair.

The factory which will be getting the monitor you screwed would not be too happy, I'm afraid. I'd ask them how they would feel.

Last night someone died by gunshot, but since I don't know who died, I shouldn't give a flying ****.

Whoops, parser full, will be back.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thank you, and as a suggestion you should stick to 1 account for trolling vs many


So did any of your tempered glass monitors have glossy or are all matte? And are you going to go ahead and remove the matte?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkest*
> 
> What are you talking about? This is my only account on OCnet, I actually made it because I saw your posts. That is honestly, regardless of what you believe, the only reason I'm here. I was outright disgusted with the fact you had heavily modified a monitor and then intended to return it under false pretenses. The fact is I still am, but that's another issue. If you don't believe me feel free to ask your moderators, they can check my I.P and verify that for you.


More like you jumped to conclusions over what one person say, and right keep it up







I explained it once, unlike a conversation IRL it's easy for you to scroll back up and read through the thread


----------



## Darkest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> More like you jumped to conclusions over what one person say, and right keep it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I explained it once, unlike a conversation IRL it's easy for you to scroll back up and read through the thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Damage control is a lovely aspect of internet communication for that very reason. Kudos.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> @LunaP: I'm sorry, my text parser only reads up to 50 characters before it's full and I feel the need to urinate. So it took some time to reply to your post.
> 
> It didn't look like a joke to me, but again, on further inspection, I would have understood it as a joke starting from the 57th character which I had the unfortunate incident of not being able to read. Sincere apologies to your kindest of hearts.


No worries, mistakes happen, if you read on from the OLD post you quoted I continued to state that I was keeping it and making it a side monitor for my surround setup as I can't see the polarizer that way. Regardless it sounds like you didn't really read my post but whatever I explained myself and you're entitled to keep flaming for w/e you want to make yourself believe. I'd suggest taking it out of thread though as trolling at this point is against ToS. The only monitor I"m returning is one of the tempered due to the color being less saturated and either a green/blue hue which I can't rectify or get near the others. Highly doubt its because I have it in the Reg DVI-I port vs DVI-D and it still overclocks fine as well.

That and we pay for the shipping not the seller. The only thing that was scratched was the polarizer which is on wrong anyways which even if returned the factory would have to remove and replace the filter which is a fast process for them.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkest*
> 
> Damage control is a lovely aspect of internet communication for that very reason. Kudos.


So is taking a few minutes extra to read before jumping in and embarassing yourself









It happens









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> So did any of your tempered glass monitors have glossy or are all matte? And are you going to go ahead and remove the matte?


I'm going to this weekend on the bad one just to check, just gonna lift it a bit and check underneath that way there's no markings or anything. Should take no less than 5 minutes.


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Terms and Conditions do _not_ decide what it is _right_ and _wrong_ in terms of morality. They define the lines of acceptable and intolerable use of their business..
> 
> Just because he has answered a few posts does not mean he's entitled to blatantly rip off a seller.. you can tell he's even _proud_ of the idea since he announced it to the world, which is worse.
> 
> It's okay to stand up for what's right and denounce those who do wrong, you don't have to sit on the sideline.


Exactly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> @LunaP: I'm sorry, my text parser only reads up to 50 characters before it's full and I feel the need to urinate. So it took some time to reply to your post.
> 
> It didn't look like a joke to me, but again, on further inspection, I would have understood it as a joke starting from the 57th character which I had the unfortunate incident of not being able to read. Sincere apologies to your kindest of hearts.
> 
> I would claim that if you got it from the seller you were complaining about, _you would have every right to screw it and return it_ since it would only be fair.
> 
> The factory which will be getting the monitor you screwed would not be too happy, I'm afraid. I'd ask them how they would feel.
> 
> Last night someone died by gunshot, but since I don't know who died, I shouldn't give a flying ****.
> 
> Whoops, parser full, will be back.


Ha... good post.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Terms and Conditions do _not_ decide what it is _right_ and _wrong_ in terms of morality. They define the lines of acceptable and intolerable use of their business..
> 
> Just because he has answered a few posts does not mean he's entitled to blatantly rip off a seller.. you can tell he's even _proud_ of the idea since he announced it to the world, which is worse.
> 
> It's okay to stand up for what's right and denounce those who do wrong, you don't have to sit on the sideline.


And they are providing a service for a fee not doing a favor for free. Like you said the terms and conditions do a fine job of defining the lines of acceptable and intolerable use of their business.

Getting off topic now lol but I don't think this would be sitting on the sidelines. I have no issue with standing up for what's right, but this isn't a obvious case of what's right, his monitor already had issues as he said. I also don't think its right when other people try and put their beliefs onto others, so I guess in a way I'm doing exactly what your suggesting I do (not sitting on the sidelines) just not in a way you agree with lol.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> So is taking a few minutes extra to read before jumping in and embarassing yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to this weekend on the bad one just to check, just gonna lift it a bit and check underneath that way there's no markings or anything. Should take no less than 5 minutes.


Will you be able to put the tempered glass back on afterwards or once its off its off? So you have 2 others you believe to be glossy underneath??


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Just to clarify, there are no customs/import fees for US residents, right? The FAQ doesn't mention USA and the thread search brings up godawful results. I'm almost certain there's a free trade agreement between the US and Korea but some people have told me they were charged $13+3% when buying


Only members in USA that I've seen here who have been charged customs fees were myself and The Storm on X-Star DP2720 from dream-seller this week. Got that reversed by talking to Fedex broker in Anchorage. They had misclassified it. Supposed to be corrected for future purchases.

The Matte X-Star DP2710 is $279 including shipping from dream-seller on eBay.

Below is link to a review:
https://teksyndicate.com/videos/x-star-dp2710-27-2560x1440-samsung-psl-panel-led-matte-screen-monitor-overview

While they are very similar, The review guy preferred the X-Star over the Qnix.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Will you be able to put the tempered glass back on afterwards or once its off its off? So you have 2 others you believe to be glossy underneath??


I have 2 glass panels. I don't have to remove them since they're taped on just after removing the frame I'll be able to see in. This should require no maintenance other than popping the front bezel off.


----------



## Ovrclck

@LunaP

Amazon is correct.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> @LunaP
> 
> Amazon is correct.


Awesome appreciate it <3 +1


----------



## cipp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> Only members in USA that I've seen here who have been charged customs fees were myself and The Storm on X-Star DP2720 from dream-seller this week. Got that reversed by talking to Fedex broker in Anchorage. They had misclassified it. Supposed to be corrected for future purchases.
> 
> The Matte X-Star DP2710 is $279 including shipping from dream-seller on eBay.
> 
> Below is link to a review:
> https://teksyndicate.com/videos/x-star-dp2710-27-2560x1440-samsung-psl-panel-led-matte-screen-monitor-overview
> While they are very similar, The review guy preferred the X-Star over the Qnix.


Gotcha, thanks


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Gotcha, thanks


Underneath the hoods they're both the exact same panel, so either which you go for will be fine.

The only difference that may come up time to time are shady sellers selling IPS panels inside QNIX/XStars from what I've heard reported from others. It may be a way to scare away from buying but again since this is a nameless brand you can't disregard ALL rumors or warnings.


----------



## Marley217

Ok, so I just encountered some bad burn in on my Qnix monitor. I have it clocked at 96hz, and I just had a window burned it quite badly.
After having it turned off for a half an hour, the burn in image is gone. But I would like to know what caused this burn in. Is it the overclock? Can I use different timings (or a slightly lower refresh rate), or should I just keep it at 60hz when not gaming/watching shows?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Awesome appreciate it <3 +1


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Ok, so I just encountered some bad burn in on my Qnix monitor. I have it clocked at 96hz, and I just had a window burned it quite badly.
> After having it turned off for a half an hour, the burn in image is gone. But I would like to know what caused this burn in. Is it the overclock? Can I use different timings (or a slightly lower refresh rate), or should I just keep it at 60hz when not gaming/watching shows?


Just to note, you're not actually overclocking your monitor, curious how that phrase started lol , the boards are set to receive up to a specific signal, so you're only increasing the signal refresh out of your video card to the monitor, the monitor can either accept it or not know how to handle it.

As for your issue this is known as image persistence, it can be caused by many issues such as faulty hardware, impurities and bad capacitors. Usually the image persistence is temporary, but can become permanent if left unchecked (such as not turning off the monitor for a LOOOONG time )

Though easily the issue can be fixed by either 1) shutting the monitor off for a bit like you did or 2) pulling up a white background (screensaver or picture) and putting it over ( if an image ) the affected area as the pixels are stuck in a static position. Hope this helps.


----------



## EvgeniX

so if Glossy = Matte + Tempered Glass... why not get Matte in first place?
so they all stop sell real Glossy anymore?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> so if Glossy = Matte + Tempered Glass... why not get Matte in first place?
> so they all stop sell real Glossy anymore?


Some did , some didn't some just are confused @ what they're selling









Either way it's a good thing there's a plethora of people w/ them to help us figure out the best sellers to talk to that KNOW what they're dealing w/









As for the matte + glass, it DOES give a good gloss impression. Only issue I guess would be for those that prefer gloss AND debezling as I'm unsure if the glass would stay on, depending on how it's attached, from my initial understanding it SHOULD but there'd be tape though it could be both ways. I'll see this weekend.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just to note, you're not actually overclocking your monitor, curious how that phrase started lol , the boards are set to receive up to a specific signal, so you're only increasing the signal refresh out of your video card to the monitor, the monitor can either accept it or not know how to handle it.
> 
> As for your issue this is known as image persistence, it can be caused by many issues such as faulty hardware, impurities and bad capacitors. Usually the image persistence is temporary, but can become permanent if left unchecked (such as not turning off the monitor for a LOOOONG time )
> 
> Though easily the issue can be fixed by either 1) shutting the monitor off for a bit like you did or 2) pulling up a white background (screensaver or picture) and putting it over ( if an image ) the affected area as the pixels are stuck in a static position. Hope this helps.


Thanks for your reply LunaP!

It did struck me as odd, since I've never seen burn in/image persistence in lcd's. Aren't lcd screens supposed to never ever show image persistence?
So the screen burned in, only after having one window open for about 40 minutes. The higher refresh rate must have something to do with that.

Edit:
After googling my problem I've found that the higher refresh rate most definitely is the problem. I'm using CRU, and using the LCD - standard timings. Does anyone know how to obtain the best timings?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Thanks for your reply LunaP!
> 
> It did struck me as odd, since I've never seen burn in/image persistence in lcd's. Aren't lcd screens supposed to never ever show image persistence?
> So the screen burned in, only after having one window open for about 40 minutes. The higher refresh rate must have something to do with that.
> 
> Edit:
> After googling my problem I've found that the higher refresh rate most definitely is the problem. I'm using CRU, and using the LCD - standard timings. Does anyone know how to obtain the best timings?


If automatic is an option I'd choose that, but If you're using Nvidia I highly recommend using the Nvidia Control panel for custom resolutions and setting to automatic, if ATI, I can't help there, but there are a few ATI guru's here that can lead you on that direction.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quick question. Let's say I don't like a certain ICC profile. I can just remove and click on "reset settings to system default' to get back to my original default color?


Is the profile highlighted in yellow the system default?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quick question. Let's say I don't like a certain ICC profile. I can just remove and click on "reset settings to system default' to get back to my original default color?


Yup Yup.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yup Yup.


Phewww







Rep for you sir.


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Incredible, I must have gone through 7 profiles when I first setup the monitor and chose the one that had the least "warmth" and honestly I loved it but then I loaded yours up tonight and kept going back and forth between it and the one I had been using and the whites using your profile are legit white. Impressive sir and thank you! I love it! +rep!!!


In case you or anyone else for that matter are interested, here's an updated ICC profile. I noticed that they grey in my old profile was a bit greenish and that's eliminated with the new profile (at least for me).

Qnix QX2710 @ 96Hz, 6500k white point, 120cd/m2, 2.2 gamma and 11 clicks brightness from the minimum. Matte monitor with quite dim room lightning.

QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file


----------



## Sylphanos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sylphanos*
> 
> Currently i am doing the tape mod to fix my backlight bleed.
> removed the metal frame taped it and put everything back together, but then i noticed somehing on the back casing.
> 
> I dont know if anyone has brought this up yet but from pictures/video's(from different people) i have seen some of the rubber/foam spacers are missing or they are on other places.
> And everyone has them on other spots/missing. Can this be a cause for backlight bleed and other things aswell?
> 
> for comparison here is mine:
> 
> 
> compared to the video in the OP mine are all different and other spacer heights aswell


after some testing with the spacers on the back by moving them around a couple of times and checking for backlight bleed i think that they can definitly increase and decrease the bleed.
for example i switched between a higher spacer and lower spacer and vice versa and each time the backlight bleed switched places to where the higher spacer was.

here is a small example:
with spacer pressing at the back - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - without spacer


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> In case you or anyone else for that matter are interested, here's an updated ICC profile. I noticed that they grey in my old profile was a bit greenish and that's eliminated with the new profile (at least for me).
> 
> Qnix QX2710 @ 96Hz, 6500k white point, 120cd/m2, 2.2 gamma and 11 clicks brightness from the minimum. Matte monitor with quite dim room lightning.
> 
> QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file


Thank you I will try this once I'm home!


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Hope the first page will be updated with new profiles...









EDIT: Also, there is some posters here that they will confirm if using a high quality Dual Link DVI cables will OC more?


----------



## Warsteiner

I just ordered the X-Star matte finish for $279! I hope I get a good panel. How hard is it to remove the stand completely? How far do I need to take the monitor apart to do so?


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If automatic is an option I'd choose that, but If you're using Nvidia I highly recommend using the Nvidia Control panel for custom resolutions and setting to automatic, if ATI, I can't help there, but there are a few ATI guru's here that can lead you on that direction.


Oh ok thanks! Actually, I own ati atm, but my msi GTX 780 will arrive tomorrow ^.^


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If automatic is an option I'd choose that, but If you're using Nvidia I highly recommend using the Nvidia Control panel for custom resolutions and setting to automatic, if ATI, I can't help there, but there are a few ATI guru's here that can lead you on that direction.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh ok thanks! Actually, I own ati atm, but my msi GTX 780 will arrive tomorrow ^.^
Click to expand...

Congrats! I'm really hoping I can put together enough cash to pick up a 780 for my monitor. Don't think my 660's will be enough


----------



## bmancreations

I finally got the color profiles to load, and I know this because I seen it change.

But if I put a white image between the monitors, they both still look slightly different. Is there something else that could cause that? One is basically, greyer/darkerish


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> In case you or anyone else for that matter are interested, here's an updated ICC profile. I noticed that they grey in my old profile was a bit greenish and that's eliminated with the new profile (at least for me).
> 
> Qnix QX2710 @ 96Hz, 6500k white point, 120cd/m2, 2.2 gamma and 11 clicks brightness from the minimum. Matte monitor with quite dim room lightning.
> 
> QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file


Loving this! Looks great on my tempered glass qnix Thank you Rep+


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Congrats! I'm really hoping I can put together enough cash to pick up a 780 for my monitor. Don't think my 660's will be enough


Thanks









Yeah, this is the very first time I'm buying a TOTL graphics card. I'm feeling that the computational power of single GPU's is finally able to pretty much run anything at 1440p at high settings, with > 60 fps. I feel that, for the current gaming dogma (high res, single monitor, no 3D) these cards are everything we need. Something has to change pretty drastically in order to need better GPU's.

I'm coming from the ati HD6870, which barely managed 40fps on high with BF3. I actually bought the R9 280X, and found out this card is everything you need for full hd gaming, but won't get you passed 40 fps running 1440p with demanding games. I figured, why the heck would I spend ~ €270 on something that's already lacking! The R9 290X also didn't quite catch my interest, since I would need an active displayport adapter for my third screen. The adapter + the 290X was coming dangerously close to the GTX 780 in terms of price, so I just went for easymode nvidia.

The GTX 660ti will run most games just fine on 1440p. I'm even able to run skyrim + 2K textures on 1440p with the HD6870 (I do get bad frame drops though). If you're a competitive BF3-BF4 player, and you want to play on high, you will need something better. But you probably already know ALL of this.


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I finally got the color profiles to load, and I know this because I seen it change.
> 
> But if I put a white image between the monitors, they both still look slightly different. Is there something else that could cause that? One is basically, greyer/darkerish


Every panel is unique and the same settings are note likely to give you a perfect match in two different monitors, but some calibration devices and softwares are offering a feature which allows you to match the colors on multiple monitors. If don't have a calibration device yourself and you are not planning to get one then all you can really do is to try manually calibrate the monitors so they would look the same. Pick the monitor you think has better colors (especially white and grey in your case) to your eye and try to manually match the other monitor to it. You are unlike to get a perfect match but with some effort you can get it close enough so you won't really notice the difference unless all you are doing is watching a blank white page








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> The GTX 660ti will run most games just fine on 1440p. I'm even able to run skyrim + 2K textures on 1440p with the HD6870 (I do get bad frame drops though). If you're a competitive BF3-BF4 player, and you want to play on high, you will need something better. But you probably already know ALL of this.


If someone is a competitive BF3 or BF4 player, then they wouldn't have one of this Korean panels anyway. They are not exactly known to be good gaming panels for competitive gaming and especially not if it's a fast moving game like any FPS game really. And don't get me wrong as they are still pretty decent for gaming if you are not a competitive player or you don't need a fast panel for any other reason and I am loving my own Qnix as it's a great overall monitor. I'd definitely buy a faster monitor if I'd go back to competitive FPS gaming though.

And it's great to see that my calibration is working for many others too. A great monitor can turn into a amazing one with a good color profile.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> If someone is a competitive BF3 or BF4 player, then they wouldn't have one of this Korean panels anyway. They are not exactly known to be good gaming panels for competitive gaming and especially not if it's a fast moving game like any FPS game really. And don't get me wrong as they are still pretty decent for gaming if you are not a competitive player or you don't need a fast panel for any other reason and I am loving my own Qnix as it's a great overall monitor. I'd definitely buy a faster monitor if I'd go back to competitive FPS gaming though.
> 
> And it's great to see that my calibration is working for many others too. A great monitor can turn into a amazing one with a good color profile.


Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking after I wrote that







However, I'm not completely convinced that it would matter all too much. Especially when you're gaming over the internet. The Qnix has a response time of what, 8ms? Even less when running at higher refresh rates? That's really quite negligible considering you can easily get 30 -150 ms ping depending on the quality/distance of the servers. Obviously when playing professionally every millisecond matters, but this wasn't what I meant with competitive gaming!

About the image persistence: I've found that I could ONLY see it with a dark blue/dark grey background. When going pure black, I don't see anything.
I'll try some different refresh rates, to see if they run more stable. Maybe 72/84 works better in the long run. Has anyone experienced any image persistence at plain 60hz?


----------



## Taint3dBulge

something weird is going on while playing bf4.. Not sure if its monitor or game related. In locker room the screen will darken ALOT for afew seconds then it will pop back to normal.. Happens every now and again, most of the time after a spawn. Ill spawn and 5~8 seconds later it will pop back to normal. Anyone else.. Im using a profile at 96hz.


----------



## the9quad

Playing competitively and playing professionally are two different things.

These monitors are perfectly fine for competitive gaming.
I honestly do not know anyone who plays professionally (i.e. they are sponsored and get paid for it).
I do know plenty of people who play competitive BF (i.e play in clans and are in various ladders, _I've even been on a #1 team in 1942 myself-ancient times_) .

I don't think the _majority_ of people who play competitive BF really care about a 1ms vs sub 8ms display. You are always gonna have a "johnny pro gamer" who thinks they are a "pro" and "needs" a 144mhz <1ms display, and honestly if your getting paid to do this and are a pro you should probably have one, however, every one of the ahem... "pro" gamers I have ever seen does not.







this is true of BF as really it's netcode and other factors are gonna make that negligible.


----------



## passinos

I am in $289 X-star on ebay


----------



## Vesanius

As I said, it really won't matter much for most of the gamers, but I'd still get a faster panel if I were a competitive FPS gamer. I mean there is a rather big difference between Qnix and my 2ms Syncmaster for example (for my eye anyway). Telling someone that 8ms vs 1 or 2 ms does not make a difference is like saying that 120hz doesn't make a difference over 60hz. And like I said, I personally love the monitor and it's overall the best monitor I've ever had, but I've had better gaming monitors for sure and I can tell the difference quite easily. Just like you can tell the difference between 120hz and 60hz.

Now I just need to open the monitor and put something below the panel as it sits couple pixels too low in the bezel and the picture is cut a little bit. Not bothering me enough to make me open the monitor, but once I can find a decent stand that doesn't cost a fortune I shall do it at the same time. So can anyone recommend a good VESA mounted stand for this monitors? It should be a regular stand that sits on the table and should have a height and tilt adjustment.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Congrats! I'm really hoping I can put together enough cash to pick up a 780 for my monitor. Don't think my 660's will be enough
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, this is the very first time I'm buying a TOTL graphics card. I'm feeling that the computational power of single GPU's is finally able to pretty much run anything at 1440p at high settings, with > 60 fps. I feel that, for the current gaming dogma (high res, single monitor, no 3D) these cards are everything we need. Something has to change pretty drastically in order to need better GPU's.
> 
> I'm coming from the ati HD6870, which barely managed 40fps on high with BF3. I actually bought the R9 280X, and found out this card is everything you need for full hd gaming, but won't get you passed 40 fps running 1440p with demanding games. I figured, why the heck would I spend ~ €270 on something that's already lacking! The R9 290X also didn't quite catch my interest, since I would need an active displayport adapter for my third screen. The adapter + the 290X was coming dangerously close to the GTX 780 in terms of price, so I just went for easymode nvidia.
> 
> The GTX 660ti will run most games just fine on 1440p. I'm even able to run skyrim + 2K textures on 1440p with the HD6870 (I do get bad frame drops though). If you're a competitive BF3-BF4 player, and you want to play on high, you will need something better. But you probably already know ALL of this.
Click to expand...

I have considered the r9 290 since the price is so good. But your comment of easymode nvidia sums it up for me. Had a 7950 and it just seems like a lot more hoops to oc. 780 seems like it has a ton of power. Hopefully I can gather the funds. I will probably go used if I can find one.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

so how far after the pruchase can i add square trade warrenty? any thoughts?


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> As I said, it really won't matter much for most of the gamers, but I'd still get a faster panel if I were a competitive FPS gamer. I mean there is a rather big difference between Qnix and my 2ms Syncmaster for example (for my eye anyway). Telling someone that 8ms vs 1 or 2 ms does not make a difference is like saying that 120hz doesn't make a difference over 60hz. And like I said, I personally love the monitor and it's overall the best monitor I've ever had, but I've had better gaming monitors for sure and I can tell the difference quite easily. Just like you can tell the difference between 120hz and 60hz.


I have a syncmaster as well, and it indeed feels a bit lighter. But the difference between 60hz and 120 hz is way, way bigger. Not necessarily in response time, but the fluidity makes such a big difference (if you actually generate 120 fps). I guess it all comes back to what you're planning to do with the monitor. The lower response time would definitely be beneficial for the hand eye coordination. But, even with the syncmaster I'm quite awful at that


----------



## Light Phaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StarFrost*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem and I'm hoping someone can help.
> 
> Whenever I overclock my qnix to 120hz that I got a few days ago, the screen gets darker in the top right and has these dark gradation lines that you can see in the picture on the right side, and the top left gets a little bit brighter as you can see in the picture. At 60hz the colors are completely solid throughout as they should be.
> 
> *60hz:*
> 
> 
> *120hz:*


I have the exact same issue with my Qnix, is this considered a normal behavior with this monitor ?

I don't mind having darker screen, but losing consistency is a bummer...


----------



## LunaP

From tests taken the 120hz vs true 120hz witb lightboos is about 20% I prefer a 20 loss for more screen real estate and a more professional panel vs a washed out tn panel my friend has the 278H and I brought my xstar over we didnt see to much of a diff. So hes returning hia and getting a qnix. He lives on bf3 and bf4

Just chiming in thats all not saying ones better than the other.

Ok so its def a color dif all 4 others show the same color set gonna try calibrating if not ill return it my gloss obe is still sharper than the tempered lol its noticeable so im still betting matte.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I have considered the r9 290 since the price is so good. But your comment of easymode nvidia sums it up for me. Had a 7950 and it just seems like a lot more hoops to oc. 780 seems like it has a ton of power. Hopefully I can gather the funds. I will probably go used if I can find one.


Linus (yes I'm quoting youtube benchmarkers, I think he's quite good) actually tested the R9 290X watercooled, and it did surpass the GTX 780 on air. I guess you could watercool the R9 290X, with a cheap cooler, and go slightly over the cheapest GTX780's price. I'd still go with the GTX 780 though. If I pay premium, I want the premium drivers & UI!
I've actually had quite few problems with the ati drivers. But the interface is just ridiculous. I actually wasn't able to press the freaking apply button for multiple months!


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Light Phaser*
> 
> I have the exact same issue with my Qnix, is this considered a normal behavior with this monitor ?
> 
> I don't mind having darker screen, but losing consistency is a bummer...


I think it's fairly normal yeah. I haven't paid much attention to the inconsistency, but it is a bit too dark for me. I actually like 96hz a lot. I actually like 96hz more than 60hz, but that's probably just because I calibrated it at 60hz


----------



## Light Phaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> I think it's fairly normal yeah. I haven't paid much attention to the inconsistency, but it is a bit too dark for me. I actually like 96hz a lot. I actually like 96hz more than 60hz, but that's probably just because I calibrated it at 60hz


Thank you for your reply, I was worried to have a defective screen but you made feel better about it









Yet I'm a little shocked not so many people complain about this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> From tests taken the 120hz vs true 120hz witb lightboos is about 20% I prefer a 20 loss for more screen real estate and a more professional panel vs a washed out tn panel my friend has the 278H and I brought my xstar over we didnt see to much of a diff. So hes returning hia and getting a qnix. He lives on bf3 and bf4
> 
> Just chiming in thats all not saying ones better than the other.
> 
> Ok so its def a color dif all 4 others show the same color set gonna try calibrating if not ill return it my gloss obe is still sharper than the tempered lol its noticeable so im still betting matte.


I love your wallpaper, instantly grabed it on google image, I now have the same


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> From tests taken the 120hz vs true 120hz witb lightboos is about 20% I prefer a 20 loss for more screen real estate and a more professional panel vs a washed out tn panel my friend has the 278H and I brought my xstar over we didnt see to much of a diff. So hes returning hia and getting a qnix. He lives on bf3 and bf4
> 
> Just chiming in thats all not saying ones better than the other.
> 
> Ok so its def a color dif all 4 others show the same color set gonna try calibrating if not ill return it my gloss obe is still sharper than the tempered lol its noticeable so im still betting matte.


120hz on these PLS is not the same as 120hz on a tn. That is for sure. LB is it a different story. I've been using a 120hz display for quite some time (without LB) and the difference is noticeable. There is more blurring on these displays. If I had to put a figure on it. I would say 60% blur for 100hz+ PLS. 100% being 60hz lcd. 30% on a 120hz display. 0-5% on LB. This is just from my experience. Some games it's not noticeable. But CS:GO at 120hz on this display feels so choppy compared to my TN.

BUT

With all said and done, I'd take this PLS panel any day of the week. The resolution, the colours, the... everything. It's so nice lol


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I have considered the r9 290 since the price is so good. But your comment of easymode nvidia sums it up for me. Had a 7950 and it just seems like a lot more hoops to oc. 780 seems like it has a ton of power. Hopefully I can gather the funds. I will probably go used if I can find one.
> 
> 
> 
> Linus (yes I'm quoting youtube benchmarkers, I think he's quite good) actually tested the R9 290X watercooled, and it did surpass the GTX 780 on air. I guess you could watercool the R9 290X, with a cheap cooler, and go slightly over the cheapest GTX780's price. I'd still go with the GTX 780 though. If I pay premium, I want the premium drivers & UI!
> I've actually had quite few problems with the ati drivers. But the interface is just ridiculous. I actually wasn't able to press the freaking apply button for multiple months!
Click to expand...

Yeah 780 all the way.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Linus (yes I'm quoting youtube benchmarkers, I think he's quite good) actually tested the R9 290X watercooled, and it did surpass the GTX 780 on air. I guess you could watercool the R9 290X, with a cheap cooler, and go slightly over the cheapest GTX780's price. I'd still go with the GTX 780 though. If I pay premium, I want the premium drivers & UI!
> I've actually had quite few problems with the ati drivers. But the interface is just ridiculous. I actually wasn't able to press the freaking apply button for multiple months!


Or you could OC *3*x R9 290x's *On stock cooling* and beat *4*x 780 ti's. personal story-
http://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/fire+strike+3dmark+score+extreme+preset/version+1.1

and my OC is very mild compared to what other people are doing, not to mention AMD drivers have stepped up quite a bit, Nvidia....yeah not so much.
In the words of a wise man, "I've got information man, new **** has come to light"


----------



## magitsu

Qnix 2710 pixel perfect matte from Overclockmonitor. 96, 110 and 120Hz all with no problems. Zero stuck/dead pixels. Slight backlight bleed from low right corner.
Works fine with my 6950 or R9 290 with bundled DVI.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I have considered the r9 290 since the price is so good. But your comment of easymode nvidia sums it up for me. Had a 7950 and it just seems like a lot more hoops to oc. 780 seems like it has a ton of power. Hopefully I can gather the funds. I will probably go used if I can find one.
> 
> 
> 
> Linus (yes I'm quoting youtube benchmarkers, I think he's quite good) actually tested the R9 290X watercooled, and it did surpass the GTX 780 on air. I guess you could watercool the R9 290X, with a cheap cooler, and go slightly over the cheapest GTX780's price. I'd still go with the GTX 780 though. If I pay premium, I want the premium drivers & UI!
> I've actually had quite few problems with the ati drivers. But the interface is just ridiculous. I actually wasn't able to press the freaking apply button for multiple months!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah 780 all the way.
Click to expand...

If you can. Go for the evga classified. Used, they're going for low 500ish shipped or craigslist.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I have considered the r9 290 since the price is so good. But your comment of easymode nvidia sums it up for me. Had a 7950 and it just seems like a lot more hoops to oc. 780 seems like it has a ton of power. Hopefully I can gather the funds. I will probably go used if I can find one.
> 
> 
> 
> Linus (yes I'm quoting youtube benchmarkers, I think he's quite good) actually tested the R9 290X watercooled, and it did surpass the GTX 780 on air. I guess you could watercool the R9 290X, with a cheap cooler, and go slightly over the cheapest GTX780's price. I'd still go with the GTX 780 though. If I pay premium, I want the premium drivers & UI!
> I've actually had quite few problems with the ati drivers. But the interface is just ridiculous. I actually wasn't able to press the freaking apply button for multiple months!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah 780 all the way.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you can. Go for the evga classified. Used, they're going for low 500ish shipped or craigslist.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes that would be my choice if I got my pick.We'll see what happens when I get the cash. I will just be air cooling. Classy would be the best but I would like any EVGA with ACX cooler.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Or you could OC *3*x R9 290x's *On stock cooling* and beat *4*x 780 ti's. personal story-
> http://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/fire+strike+3dmark+score+extreme+preset/version+1.1
> 
> and my OC is very mild compared to what other people are doing, not to mention AMD drivers have stepped up quite a bit, Nvidia....yeah not so much.
> In the words of a wise man, "I've got information man, new **** has come to light"


+ rep for sharing my sentimonies









Who's that in your profile pic??


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> + rep for sharing my sentimonies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who's that in your profile pic??


Mr. Kenny Powers. He changed the face of professional baseball at 19 yrs. old.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Mr. Kenny Powers. He changed the face of professional baseball at 19 yrs. old.


I knew i knew who it was!!!! i haven't seen that show tho lol, not on over here, might have to download it. Cheers dude.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I knew i knew who it was!!!! i haven't seen that show tho lol, not on over here, might have to download it. Cheers dude.


If you do be perpared to laugh, only other show I find just as funny is workaholics. the type of humour is not for everyone though.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> If you do be perpared to laugh, only other show I find just as funny is workaholics. the type of humour is not for everyone though.


Haha i loooove workaholics. Downloading now lol. Can't believe they are up to season 4 of Eastbound and down and there has been no mention of it over here.


----------



## motorwayne

Locked and loaded, just grabbed a pixel perfect, no bleed that I can see Qnix from a local supplier in New Zealand.

WHAT A JAW DROPPER!! Already Vesa mounted it next two a 23.

Ha, my gaming life is complete....for now.

Motorwayne


----------



## the9quad

Is there such a thing as a triple monitor stand for these things? For future reference of course because if I buy one more pc part, my wife will kill me!


----------



## travanx

I see I ordered at the exact wrong time! The tracking basically went out during Korea's weekend. I work from home and was looking forward to setting this up to get some stuff done this weekend. If it's as good as everyone says I am selling my other two monitors and going into triple Qnix. How many of these can I hookup with crossfire 7950s?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Is there such a thing as a triple monitor stand for these things? For future reference of course because if I buy one more pc part, my wife will kill me!


http://www.wsgf.org/products/freedom-wsgf-edition-triple-xl-desk-stand

best in it's class , there's also a 5x1 version. Google for pics


----------



## UNOE

How is unlocking pixel clock work with AMD r9 series. Do you still have to use test mode with w8 ?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> http://www.wsgf.org/products/freedom-wsgf-edition-triple-xl-desk-stand
> 
> best in it's class , there's also a 5x1 version. Google for pics


Thanks + rep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> How is unlocking pixel clock work with AMD r9 series. Do you still have to use test mode with w8 ?


Here is what i had to do:

Install Catalyst driver, reboot, run pixel patcher, reboot, set up resolution in CRU, reboot.

Voila 120hz, no test mode or any of that crap, couldn't have been easier. Works in trifire btw, apparently without the crossfire bridges you are no longer limited to 2 cards in the pixel patcher.


----------



## hillsj01

I have some deep concerns about purchasing one of these monitors. I was going to buy through ipsledmonitors.com, would you guys say that they are reputable? and if there is something wrong, will I get a replacement?

My girlfriend is actually buying me one for Christmas, I just gotta give her the link to the one I would like. Would you recommend dream-seller, or ipsledmonitors.com

-New to OC.net, Looks like a great forum!


----------



## wntrsnowg

I havent been browsing this thread for awhile now, school getting crazy. In the next coming weeks I will have time to get more active, respond to peoples PMS asking me to update the OP, and lastly figure out what is going on with the members list signup form in the OP (For some reason it isn't showing....). hang tight peeps, and gl out there to anyone with finals week upon them


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hillsj01*
> 
> I have some deep concerns about purchasing one of these monitors. I was going to buy through ipsledmonitors.com, would you guys say that they are reputable? and if there is something wrong, will I get a replacement?
> 
> My girlfriend is actually buying me one for Christmas, I just gotta give her the link to the one I would like. Would you recommend dream-seller, or ipsledmonitors.com
> 
> -New to OC.net, Looks like a great forum!


I called ipsledmonitors.com 2-3 times but never heard back. If I lived in that area, I would check out their clearance items.

Dream-seller X-Star DP2710 Matte is $279 with free shipping compared to ipsledmonitors.com $339 + $20 shipping.

I recently bought two from dream-seller. No dead pixels, minor backlight bleeding, haven't overclocked.

Below is link to an X-Star review:
https://teksyndicate.com/videos/x-star-dp2710-27-2560x1440-samsung-psl-panel-led-matte-screen-monitor-overview

The review guy preferred the X-Star over the Qnix and recommended dream-seller.

Plus: Can get $41.99 SquareTrade 3 yr warranty on X-Star DP2710 Matte with dream-seller so total would be $321 with warranty.


----------



## m3us

I ordered a x-star from dream-seller.
TBH he is the only one who replies to messages on ebay(well he replies in a way you can comprehend)
I can vouch for him.


----------



## taafe

Please can someone tell me if I should get matte or glossy? Would a gtx 680 be enough or will I need to upgrade? Im from the uk shoulf I buy the qnix off amazon or ebay? Really wanna get one of these monitors but like everyone on here im nervous as to any problems I might get. Thanks


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Or you could OC *3*x R9 290x's *On stock cooling* and beat *4*x 780 ti's. personal story-
> http://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/fire+strike+3dmark+score+extreme+preset/version+1.1
> 
> and my OC is very mild compared to what other people are doing, not to mention AMD drivers have stepped up quite a bit, Nvidia....yeah not so much.
> In the words of a wise man, "I've got information man, new **** has come to light"


I'm checking out the benchmarks, but the quad GTX 780 is scoring way better, as is the triple GTX 780. Check out the new benchmarks!

Another thing, why the heck do you have three R9 290xs? XD Did you have a loaner or something?
I've also heard pretty awful stuff about crossfire (and sli for that matter). Can you actually use all three cards consistently with different games? I Doubt that you would need to though!


----------



## m3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Please can someone tell me if I should get matte or glossy? Would a gtx 680 be enough or will I need to upgrade? Im from the uk shoulf I buy the qnix off amazon or ebay? Really wanna get one of these monitors but like everyone on here im nervous as to any problems I might get. Thanks


Im getting matte;my seller (dream-seller on ebay) told me that only matte(AG coating) and tempered glass on matte are being produced by X-star/Qnix.
Some sellers might have old stock of glossy (no coating or glass).

About your gtx 680 well depends on what you play/plan on doing with your monitor...

Most of the guys here bought from EBAY afaik


----------



## TelFiRE

So I overclocked to 96hz and I thought I noticed a difference but now I'm not so sure it's actually running at that and not just placebo. In all games, it still says either 60hz or 59.95hz and doesn't offer a 96hz resolution as an option. Is this normal? Does a game have to specifically support a refresh rate? I see 96hz in both windows resolution settings and the nvidia control panel, but not games.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> So I overclocked to 96hz and I thought I noticed a difference but now I'm not so sure it's actually running at that and not just placebo. In all games, it still says either 60hz or 59.95hz and doesn't offer a 96hz resolution as an option. Is this normal? Does a game have to specifically support a refresh rate? I see 96hz in both windows resolution settings and the nvidia control panel, but not games.


Well does it lock at 96 fps when you use vsync? I've actually never looked at the refresh rate of my monitor in a game. Just use fraps and turn vsync on.


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3us*
> 
> Im getting matte;my seller (dream-seller on ebay) told me that only matte(AG coating) and tempered glass on matte are being produced by X-star/Qnix.
> 
> Some sellers might have old stock of glossy (no coating or glass).
> 
> About your gtx 680 well depends on what you play/plan on doing with your monitor...
> 
> Most of the guys here bought from EBAY afaik


Ive heard people say that the glossy looks brighter and has better colours compared to the matte? My setup is in a room with not much light so would glossy be better for me? As to what id be using my monitor for is mainly gaming and Internet browsing etc I play all types of games mainly 3rd person batman, tomb raider, black flag but I do like racing games nfs etc ive only ever gamed on a 1080p 60hz monitor I didn't really wanna upgrade until maxwell but if I cant hit 60hz at full settings I may have too. Thanks


----------



## taafe

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=111078161308

Whats the evolution 2? This is the one ive been been looking at he has a 99.6% feed back has anyone bought from the guy? Im in the uk? Thanks


----------



## m3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Ive heard people say that the glossy looks brighter and has better colours compared to the matte? My setup is in a room with not much light so would glossy be better for me? As to what id be using my monitor for is mainly gaming and Internet browsing etc I play all types of games mainly 3rd person batman, tomb raider, black flag but I do like racing games nfs etc ive only ever gamed on a 1080p 60hz monitor I didn't really wanna upgrade until maxwell but if I cant hit 60hz at full settings I may have too. Thanks


Glossy ie a screen without matte(AG coating) or tempered glass would be brighter and more colourful for sure.Its just that most sellers don't have it anymore ....


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=111078161308
> 
> Whats the evolution 2? This is the one ive been been looking at he has a 99.6% feed back has anyone bought from the guy? Im in the uk? Thanks


I have the evolution 2, it's fantastic. I didn't get it from that seller but still great monitor! Running at 96hz


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> So I overclocked to 96hz and I thought I noticed a difference but now I'm not so sure it's actually running at that and not just placebo. In all games, it still says either 60hz or 59.95hz and doesn't offer a 96hz resolution as an option. Is this normal? Does a game have to specifically support a refresh rate? I see 96hz in both windows resolution settings and the nvidia control panel, but not games.


Yea then you haven't got your monitor to be at a native 96hz. It should show up in games.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Ive heard people say that the glossy looks brighter and has better colours compared to the matte? My setup is in a room with not much light so would glossy be better for me? As to what id be using my monitor for is mainly gaming and Internet browsing etc I play all types of games mainly 3rd person batman, tomb raider, black flag but I do like racing games nfs etc ive only ever gamed on a 1080p 60hz monitor I didn't really wanna upgrade until maxwell but if I cant hit 60hz at full settings I may have too. Thanks


Maxwell will be just another failure of a generation just like Ivy/Haswell basicly, no real reason to upgrade for worse overclockability.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Ive heard people say that the glossy looks brighter and has better colours compared to the matte? My setup is in a room with not much light so would glossy be better for me? As to what id be using my monitor for is mainly gaming and Internet browsing etc I play all types of games mainly 3rd person batman, tomb raider, black flag but I do like racing games nfs etc ive only ever gamed on a 1080p 60hz monitor I didn't really wanna upgrade until maxwell but if I cant hit 60hz at full settings I may have too. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Maxwell will be just another failure of a generation just like Ivy/Haswell basicly, no real reason to upgrade for worse overclockability.
Click to expand...

Maxwell is nvidia, intels new arc is broadwell. And I don't see how ivy was a fail. Maybe if someone spent a bunch too go from sandy to ivy kind of pointless


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Maxwell is nvidia, intels new arc is broadwell. And I don't see how ivy was a fail. Maybe if someone spent a bunch too go from sandy to ivy kind of pointless


/facepalm









But point was understood so


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Thanks + rep
> Here is what i had to do:
> 
> Install Catalyst driver, reboot, run pixel patcher, reboot, set up resolution in CRU, reboot.
> 
> Voila 120hz, no test mode or any of that crap, couldn't have been easier. Works in trifire btw, apparently without the crossfire bridges you are no longer limited to 2 cards in the pixel patcher.


This would be great news. I ditched my 7970 trifire when I bought this screen because it was terrible with trifire.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Maxwell is nvidia, intels new arc is broadwell. And I don't see how ivy was a fail. Maybe if someone spent a bunch too go from sandy to ivy kind of pointless
> 
> 
> 
> /facepalm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But point was understood so
Click to expand...


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3us*
> 
> Glossy ie a screen without matte(AG coating) or tempered glass would be brighter and more colourful for sure.Its just that most sellers don't have it anymore ....


They sell them on ebay uk I guess I will get a glossy then sorry for all the questions but also im sure theres the option for hdmi connection would that be better? If not what kind of dvi do I neee because ive heard that you can increase hz better if you can a good quality dvi lead?


----------



## LunaP

Hmm either my monitor isn't accepting the ICM profiles or I'm doing something wrong, loaded several now and rebooted and nothing, running through tests before I box this thing back up. I can't tell if its the green or the blue that's off. Though it could be the yellows.


----------



## m3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> They sell them on ebay uk I guess I will get a glossy then sorry for all the questions but also im sure theres the option for hdmi connection would that be better? If not what kind of dvi do I neee because ive heard that you can increase hz better if you can a good quality dvi lead?


Just make sure you ask them what they mean by glossy,sounds lame but some of them label tempered glass on matte as "glossy".
afaik the mnitors have dual link dvi


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hillsj01*
> 
> I have some deep concerns about purchasing one of these monitors. I was going to buy through ipsledmonitors.com, would you guys say that they are reputable? and if there is something wrong, will I get a replacement?
> 
> My girlfriend is actually buying me one for Christmas, I just gotta give her the link to the one I would like. Would you recommend dream-seller, or ipsledmonitors.com
> 
> -New to OC.net, Looks like a great forum!


They are legitimate. I ordered one from them but ended up returning it and I paid nothing to return and got all my money back.


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> So I overclocked to 96hz and I thought I noticed a difference but now I'm not so sure it's actually running at that and not just placebo. In all games, it still says either 60hz or 59.95hz and doesn't offer a 96hz resolution as an option. Is this normal? Does a game have to specifically support a refresh rate? I see 96hz in both windows resolution settings and the nvidia control panel, but not games.


Try to update your monitor drivers with *this* inf file. That's created especially for your (and my) problem where games wouldn't recognize the overclocked refresh rates when played in full screen. Worked for me.


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3us*
> 
> Just make sure you ask them what they mean by glossy,sounds lame but some of them label tempered glass on matte as "glossy".
> Really?? That is lame! Whats the matte like though? Is it still desent looking picture?
> afaik the mnitors have dual link dvi


----------



## Vesanius

Now that I remember, I'd like to ask if anyone one know what those two white bright(ish) pixels on my screen are. First I thought they are dead pixels, but they can't be seen on black background and it's very hard to see them on blue or any other dark color. On white they are quite visible though and same on green and red (though, not so visible as on white). I thought that white pixels on this panels are the dead ones and black ones are the ones that are stuck but what the hell are this two pixels I have here. They can't be dead pixels or can they? Shouldn't they be visible on black background too then (and even be easiest to notice on dark background).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*


Matte is just fine. It's the matte layer or whatever it's called, that's on top of the panel is actually quite thin and doesn't affect the sharpness or colors too much. Definitely not something you should be scared of.


----------



## Jacoblab

I just setup my xstar and it has a bit of a gap between the bezel and panel at the bottom of the monitor. Is that normal?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> I just setup my xstar and it has a bit of a gap between the bezel and panel at the bottom of the monitor. Is that normal?


Which version did you buy? If Tempered glass then there's an issue, if not then one of the paddings inside isn't supporting it or rubbed off possibly. Do you have a screenshot of it?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hillsj01*
> 
> I have some deep concerns about purchasing one of these monitors. I was going to buy through ipsledmonitors.com, would you guys say that they are reputable? and if there is something wrong, will I get a replacement?
> 
> My girlfriend is actually buying me one for Christmas, I just gotta give her the link to the one I would like. Would you recommend dream-seller, or ipsledmonitors.com
> 
> -New to OC.net, Looks like a great forum!


Save your money and go with dream seller.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Save your money and go with dream seller.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


This all the way, you're protected by Ebay + paypal in this case, while other sides its at the discretion of the seller if they'll accept it back if it contains flaws, or is broken.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Just to clarify, there are no customs/import fees for US residents, right? The FAQ doesn't mention USA and the thread search brings up godawful results. I'm almost certain there's a free trade agreement between the US and Korea but some people have told me they were charged $13+3% when buying


I made a thread a few pages back about my experience on this. I got a bill from FedEx a week after my Xstar arrived and it was for $25. I spoke with another member here named Yume and he gave me great information to get this corrected. Anyway I contacted the main office in Alaska and talked with the senior manager. It seems they have the classification wrong on these monitors and we are getting charged wrong from FedEx. After lengthy discussions and many phone calls, my issue was resolved and she took care of my bill. I told her there will be a lot of these going through here and asked what can be done about this. She has now reclassified these monitors from Korea and anyone else from Wednesday on should not get a bill and the monitors will fall under the new classification.







Cheers guys. If anyone still gets a bill message me and I can help you get it resolved. The time frame is limited so the faster you try to get your bill taken care of the better.


----------



## Jacoblab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Which version did you buy? If Tempered glass then there's an issue, if not then one of the paddings inside isn't supporting it or rubbed off possibly. Do you have a screenshot of it?


I have the matte version. It doesn't seem to be affecting the picture or causing backlight bleed, which the monitor only has a tiny amount of in a corner.
It comes out about 7mm in the bottom middle of the screen.

Sorry about the bad picture


----------



## LotionExplosion

I just ordered an X-Star (without that perfect pixel) check.. I really, really hope I get one that doesn't have any dead/stuck pixels. I wonder if the G-sync mod will be made available for these Korean monitors.

Either way, I'm incredibly stoked. How are you guys enjoying your monitors?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> I just ordered an X-Star (without that perfect pixel) check.. I really, really hope I get one that doesn't have any dead/stuck pixels. I wonder if the G-sync mod will be made available for these Korean monitors.
> 
> Either way, I'm incredibly stoked. How are you guys enjoying your monitors?


Loving it!!


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> I just ordered an X-Star (without that perfect pixel) check.. I really, really hope I get one that doesn't have any dead/stuck pixels. I wonder if the G-sync mod will be made available for these Korean monitors.
> 
> Either way, I'm incredibly stoked. How are you guys enjoying your monitors?


Me too! Hopefully we luck out!
Will order a 2nd if 1st looks good.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Me too! Hopefully we luck out!
> Will order a 2nd if 1st looks good.


Good luck to both of you, my Xstar still amazes me everyday. Sold my 7950's and now I am without GPU's till Wednesday...but then I will have 2 R9-290's. My monitor overclocks to 120hz but I found the sweet spot is 110hz on BF4, 115 and up the colors dont seem to be as rich as 110.


----------



## bmancreations

Now that I have three of these, the next time I buy montiors, hopefully they are cheap (price) 30" 4K monitors


----------



## TelFiRE

Hmm, it would be really useful if someone would update the OP overclocking guide. "Make a new profile" is really not enough detail. I'm completely lost in here. I did everything that looks like it should work but still can't see my hz in game. There is like no information out there about this program.

Can anyone explain to me how to do this? I downloaded CRU, but it doesn't look like the screenshots in the OP, and the OP just glosses over a lot of info and I have absolutely no idea what to do in here. I tried just editing my hz up to 96, that does nothing. In fact I can't even figure out how to change resolutions with this program, no matter what settings I put in it won't affect my resolution or refresh rate.
Quote:


> To use the utility above: click the stock 60Hz profile, press the copy button, make a new profile and then use the paste button.


Ok, what does "make a new profile" mean here? And it should also be noted that when you click copy, paste disappears. Am I supposed to click "Add"? And if so, under detailed I assume since 2550x1440 isn't an option under standard? But, I see no paste button in the window that pops up. Still, I filled out all the same settings and made one at 96hz.
Quote:


> This has created a mirror image of the stock profile. Next, just edit the refresh rate number at the bottom (should be 60 originally) to something like 96.


Ok, but what else? It's definitely not that simple for me, nothing happens when you change that.
Quote:


> Here is some explanation + pictures of the window that pops up to edit your custom refresh rate in CRU [CLICK].


Mine doesn't look like this, but similar, is that an old version?
Quote:


> This makes a refresh rate profile for your computer of 96 Hz. Once that's done, reboot your computer can go into your computer settings (catalyst control center for AMD, and Nvidia control panel for Nvidia) and choose the refresh rate that you just created.


The refresh rate I created didn't show up, I was able to make Windows run at 96hz with nvidia control panel though. Won't show up in games so does me no good.

And while I'm here asking questions I've got one more for you, I was rather disappointed that my QX2710 didn't work with my other two monitors (27", 1080) for Nvidia Surround. I was reading that it is probably because of the sync polarity. I see that can be changed in CRU (well, whenever I get it to work that is...) Will this screw with my monitor? I'd really like to be able to do nvidia surround.

Thanks a bunch in advance for any help you can provide, I guess I'm the only one too dumb to figure out these instructions


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Now that I have three of these, the next time I buy montiors, hopefully they are cheap (price) 30" 4K monitors


3 of these would be sweet but I dont have the desktop space for it lol. My 27" sammy is only 1080 so I have it running off my igpu on my 4770k, I just load up MSI afterburner, real temp, and windows resource monitor so I can see loads and temps real time when I am gaming


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> 3 of these would be sweet but I dont have the desktop space for it lol. My 27" sammy is only 1080 so I have it running off my igpu on my 4770k, I just load up MSI afterburner, real temp, and windows resource monitor so I can see loads and temps real time when I am gaming


i have a 2500k, and a 1080p asus, can i do the same thing?? why not just extend the desktop? am i missing somthing? I orderd my x-star on thursday. and want to use both monitors, one for gmming and the other to have stufff up on screen to just brows the net or whatever.


----------



## The Storm

Yeah you can do that. I just like doing it this way, I want maximum gpu power for gaming. It may not have any effect on gpu power but it's easy to do it this way.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

thats a cool idea, never thought you could do that? so how does it work? are there 2 desktops? sorry just never heard of that. can you run the xstar overclocked and it wont interfier with the sammy?? how do you designate the intel gpu to the samy?


----------



## The Storm

Yeah I run my XSTAR overclocked and my Sammy stock 60hz. Use your X-star as normal, plug your second monitor into your mother board video port, mine is hdmi. Go into your bios and make sure your setting is on to run igpu and gpu through pcie is turned on. Boot up your system and your second monitor should be recognized and fire up accordingly. You can choose to extend your desktop if you wish.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

+ rep to you sir, thx for the help, i will definatly try this, might as well use my igpu. one othe question, can i do the same thing if i want to run it through my gts 450?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> + rep to you sir, thx for the help, i will definatly try this, might as well use my igpu. one othe question, can i do the same thing if i want to run it through my gts 450?


No problem man!!
I am unsure on this, I have 2 gpu's so if I were to populate my last slot it would hurt my performance by switching my lanes to 8x 4x 4x isntead of my current 8x 8x set up.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Me too! Hopefully we luck out!
> Will order a 2nd if 1st looks good.


You're definitely gonna love it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> 3 of these would be sweet but I dont have the desktop space for it lol. My 27" sammy is only 1080 so I have it running off my igpu on my 4770k, I just load up MSI afterburner, real temp, and windows resource monitor so I can see loads and temps real time when I am gaming


http://ergotechgroup.com/gaming/

Check these out for small desks and gaming needs







Getting one myself for these 3


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

i guess i can use my 450 to drive my other monitor. only reason i have it is for physx and i dont use it for that much. now i just need my xstar to show up in one piece...


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> I'm checking out the benchmarks, but the quad GTX 780 is scoring way better, as is the triple GTX 780. Check out the new benchmarks!
> 
> Another thing, why the heck do you have three R9 290xs? XD Did you have a loaner or something?
> I've also heard pretty awful stuff about crossfire (and sli for that matter). Can you actually use all three cards consistently with different games? I Doubt that you would need to though!


Look at the picture, I am saying I am beating _some_ 4x780/ti's with _my_ 3x290x's, and I am doing it with a really crappy OC on air. see how I am number 45 look below me. That was to counteract the quote from a youtube OC'er who said it takes a OC 290x to break even with a stock 780, the dude is full of poop. Performance wise 290x's are at the very least even with a 780 at stock. *To put it another way look at the hall of fame, how many 3 card 780/ti/titans do you see beating 4 290x's? Answer is zero. Now look at the 3x290x's several of them are beating 4 of those nvidia cards.*

Pound for pound aka for the price the 290's are the king, no questions about that. 290x's are a waste, imo. If had to pick a card all over again it would be 290's. If price was no question it would be the 780 ti's maybe, I'd have to see what mantle brings to the table first.

Yes I can actually use all 3 cards on different games. Crossfire on 290/290x's is awesome no more bridges, increased bandwidth, no microstutter.

And why do I have 3 cards, so I can game at 1440p 120fps in every game i play with everything cranked up.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Look at the picture, I am saying I am beating _some_ 4x780/ti's with _my_ 3x290x's, and I am doing it with a really crappy OC on air. see how I am number 45 look below me. That was to counteract the quote from a youtube OC'er who said it takes a OC 290x to break even with a stock 780, the dude is full of poop. Performance wise 290x's are at the very least even with a 780 at stock. *To put it another way look at the hall of fame, how many 3 card 780/ti/titans do you see beating 4 290x's? Answer is zero. Now look at the 3x290x's several of them are beating 4 of those nvidia cards.*
> 
> Pound for pound aka for the price the 290's are the king, no questions about that. 290x's are a waste, imo. If had to pick a card all over again it would be 290's. If price was no question it would be the 780 ti's maybe, I'd have to see what mantle brings to the table first.
> 
> Yes I can actually use all 3 cards on different games. Crossfire on 290/290x's is awesome no more bridges, increased bandwidth, no microstutter.
> 
> And why do I have 3 cards, so I can game at 1440p 120fps in every game i play with everything cranked up.


THIS!







I'm in the exact same boat, just waiting for more to come in stock and I'll have my tri-fire 1440p gloriousness


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Look at the picture, I am saying I am beating _some_ 4x780/ti's with _my_ 3x290x's, and I am doing it with a really crappy OC on air. see how I am number 45 look below me. That was to counteract the quote from a youtube OC'er who said it takes a OC 290x to break even with a stock 780, the dude is full of poop. Performance wise 290x's are at the very least even with a 780 at stock. *To put it another way look at the hall of fame, how many 3 card 780/ti/titans do you see beating 4 290x's? Answer is zero. Now look at the 3x290x's several of them are beating 4 of those nvidia cards.*
> 
> Pound for pound aka for the price the 290's are the king, no questions about that. 290x's are a waste, imo. If had to pick a card all over again it would be 290's. If price was no question it would be the 780 ti's maybe, I'd have to see what mantle brings to the table first.
> 
> Yes I can actually use all 3 cards on different games. Crossfire on 290/290x's is awesome no more bridges, increased bandwidth, no microstutter.
> 
> And why do I have 3 cards, so I can game at 1440p 120fps in every game i play with everything cranked up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> THIS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the exact same boat, just waiting for more to come in stock and I'll have my tri-fire 1440p gloriousness


I have two 290's mining currently. I'm scared to put them in my main rig so far. By experience with tri fire 7970's was terrible at best. I sometimes waited 2 or 3 months to play a game with smoothness at 1440p 120hz. The drivers where terrible. I had them at launch and even 3 months after cards where released I couldn't play many games with tri-fire. And most the time I would have to disable all but one GPU to get some descent exceptable smoothness. I know this is the point where people chime in saying I need to do various tweaks and frame capping, radeon pro and what not but I tried it all. I literally probably spent 100 hours last year trying to get things working right with the 7970's tried everything you can suggest and even more obscure stuff you never heard of.

Thanks for you post I really glad to here microstutter and the bridge issue has gotten better (I witnessed the bridge issues I was using two bridges on two cards and disabled the third card for a month before I sold them). I really really want to like these card. I think AMD makes the best hardware hands down. I just need it to work out of box with non beta drivers. Some things I do require non beta drivers. And I just don't understand how AMD can release a card and not have any whql drivers, even a month are two after release. This is what happen to me with 7970's too I was always using a beta driver. Because nothing else worked better. I understand they want to push fixes to use sooner but if 90% of your users of 7970 and r9 series cards are using beta drivers throughout 95% of the first two years of the lifetime of that card, then something is terrible wrong. I shouldn't be a beta driver more than 50% of the time. I understand its just a name of the driver and nvidia whql isn't alway perfect. But please just release the good drivers as whql please. Its almost like its left there as a excuse. The game doesn't work right "well your on a beta drive so it will be fixed" meanwhile I go back and us the last whql and game won't even load and there is even more issues in other games.

Anyways end of rant. That's why I'm scared to throw the two 290's cards in my system. With one 780 in my main rig I haven't really had to do any driver tweaks or anything fixes from crashing games or games not loading. Only thing I have done is every driver update I just update. Most the time been on whql thus far.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Look at the picture, I am saying I am beating _some_ 4x780/ti's with _my_ 3x290x's, and I am doing it with a really crappy OC on air. see how I am number 45 look below me. That was to counteract the quote from a youtube OC'er who said it takes a OC 290x to break even with a stock 780, the dude is full of poop. Performance wise 290x's are at the very least even with a 780 at stock. *To put it another way look at the hall of fame, how many 3 card 780/ti/titans do you see beating 4 290x's? Answer is zero. Now look at the 3x290x's several of them are beating 4 of those nvidia cards.*
> 
> Pound for pound aka for the price the 290's are the king, no questions about that. 290x's are a waste, imo. If had to pick a card all over again it would be 290's. If price was no question it would be the 780 ti's maybe, I'd have to see what mantle brings to the table first.
> 
> Yes I can actually use all 3 cards on different games. Crossfire on 290/290x's is awesome no more bridges, increased bandwidth, no microstutter.
> 
> And why do I have 3 cards, so I can game at 1440p 120fps in every game i play with everything cranked up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> THIS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the exact same boat, just waiting for more to come in stock and I'll have my tri-fire 1440p gloriousness


I originally had 1 Titan, and then was waiting to see what would come out, then ended up winning a new titan (unopened) for about 540$ on Ebay, so now I have SLI, had I not, I was contemplating either jumping ship to 4x 290's or 3x 780 ti's though now I'm looking @ a 3rd titan possibly, and the margin between mine and the others is about 5-10% so I'm not going to sweat it to much, thought the price for the 290's is really nice, crazy how the 290's are out performing the 290x's though.

Any of the 3 cards will do 1440 just fine , and I'm going 3 cards just like you guys so I can do full settings as well in surround across the board w/o worrying.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I have two 290's mining currently. I'm scared to put them in my main rig so far. By experience with tri fire 7970's was terrible at best. I sometimes waited 2 or 3 months to play a game with smoothness at 1440p 120hz. The drivers where terrible. I had them at launch and even 3 months after cards where released I couldn't play many games with tri-fire. And most the time I would have to disable all but one GPU to get some descent exceptable smoothness. I know this is the point where people chime in saying I need to do various tweaks and frame capping, radeon pro and what not but I tried it all. I literally probably spent 100 hours last year trying to get things working right with the 7970's tried everything you can suggest and even more obscure stuff you never heard of.
> 
> Thanks for you post I really glad to here microstutter and the bridge issue has gotten better (I witnessed the bridge issues I was using two bridges on two cards and disabled the third card for a month before I sold them). I really really want to like these card. I think AMD makes the best hardware hands down. I just need it to work out of box with non beta drivers. Some things I do require non beta drivers. And I just don't understand how AMD can release a card and not have any whql drivers, even a month are two after release. This is what happen to me with 7970's too I was always using a beta driver. Because nothing else worked better. I understand they want to push fixes to use sooner but if 90% of your users of 7970 and r9 series cards are using beta drivers throughout 95% of the first two years of the lifetime of that card, then something is terrible wrong. I shouldn't be a beta driver more than 50% of the time. I understand its just a name of the driver and nvidia whql isn't alway perfect. But please just release the good drivers as whql please. Its almost like its left there as a excuse. The game doesn't work right "well your on a beta drive so it will be fixed" meanwhile I go back and us the last whql and game won't even load and there is even more issues in other games.
> 
> Anyways end of rant. That's why I'm scared to throw the two 290's cards in my system. With one 780 in my main rig I haven't really had to do any driver tweaks or anything fixes from crashing games or games not loading. Only thing I have done is every driver update I just update. Most the time been on whql thus far.


I feel your pain







I had quad 7970's for a while, then went down to 3. In most games I actually had pretty good scaling and smooth gameplay but there were plenty of times I didn't. My board only did 8, 4, 4 on the pcie lanes and having single bridges between the 3 may have added some issue. I too, purchased at launch when those came out. However for me I'm completely ready to take the plunge again. This time I'll be on X79 hardware so really maximize that bandwidth. Plus comparing the latency and frame times of 7970 multi gpu to the current beta drivers and multi- 290 gpus has already blown me away.

I completely understand your hesitation though. I will be posting a lot of feedback once I get all 3 setup and rocking with the x79.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> I feel your pain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had quad 7970's for a while, then went down to 3. In most games I actually had pretty good scaling and smooth gameplay but there were plenty of times I didn't. My board only did 8, 4, 4 on the pcie lanes and having single bridges between the 3 may have added some issue. I too, purchased at launch when those came out. However for me I'm completely ready to take the plunge again. This time I'll be on X79 hardware so really maximize that bandwidth. Plus comparing the latency and frame times of 7970 multi gpu to the current beta drivers and multi- 290 gpus has already blown me away.
> 
> I completely understand your hesitation though. I will be posting a lot of feedback once I get all 3 setup and rocking with the x79.


I was on x79 to. The problem for me is I really sensitive to anything less than 100hz I can easily tell the difference from 100hz to 120hz. Some people will say impossible. But I know right when I see it I think people that aren't going for smooth don't really care to much how smooth it is. As long as the FPS counter says 100 plus frames they think they got a great deal on there cards. But 7970's where terrible at displaying more than 100 FPS in games even older dx9 games I had to use one card. I even played a new game at the time FC3 in dx9 mode on low settings so I could have my smooth 120fps and only used one of the three 7970's. This was only thing smooth enough for me. I just can't imagine spending $1200 again and not being able to use my video cards on a game I like and want to play. I don't want to have two cards sitting in my loop with nothing to do.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

I think what you were noticing was the frame latency. There were some games with my multi- 7970's that even at 160fps it didn't feel smooth but going back to a single card did lol. I'm not trying to talk you in to them, but I'm pretty confident it's a different story this go around. I'm gong to give it a shot


----------



## wabak

Hi, wondering if anyone can give me some advice.

Looking at buying the X-Star from dream-seller on eBay, but after reading the bit about customs etc I'm worried I'll be charged a lot, and dream-seller is out of the office till tomorrow I assume.

I live in the UK, will I really get charged £100 on top of my purchase just for receiving the monitor?







I sent them an email, but really impatient and want to purchase it now haha...


----------



## latprod

Hi guys, trying to use MCW to force presistent profile so applications do not override the profile I'm currently using in windows.

The problem is, MCW won't let me load anything, it's just "default" and I have to go through a wizard to calibrate, which I know very little about, and I certainly haven't got any calibration hardware.
Is there another way to force the profile?


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wabak*
> 
> Hi, wondering if anyone can give me some advice.
> 
> Looking at buying the X-Star from dream-seller on eBay, but after reading the bit about customs etc I'm worried I'll be charged a lot, and dream-seller is out of the office till tomorrow I assume.
> 
> I live in the UK, will I really get charged £100 on top of my purchase just for receiving the monitor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sent them an email, but really impatient and want to purchase it now haha...


Not sure about UK I know US doesn't really get dinged or the amount is super small like 10bucks I'm in Canada and I just got mine last week i had to pay 28bucks i'm sure someone from UK has bought 1 on these forums........


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hi guys, trying to use MCW to force presistent profile so applications do not override the profile I'm currently using in windows.
> 
> The problem is, MCW won't let me load anything, it's just "default" and I have to go through a wizard to calibrate, which I know very little about, and I certainly haven't got any calibration hardware.
> Is there another way to force the profile?


have you placed the icc profile in c/windows/system32/spool/drivers/color and gone to color management and ticked "use my settings for this device" and added the icc profile in there?


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Yeah you can do that. I just like doing it this way, I want maximum gpu power for gaming. It may not have any effect on gpu power but it's easy to do it this way.


Your GPU will idle close to 10c cooler with only one Monitor. Good idea to put the second on iGPU.
Going to try it myself


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> You're definitely gonna love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://ergotechgroup.com/gaming/
> 
> Check these out for small desks and gaming needs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting one myself for these 3


I love these stands. Been using the = Ergotech Triple Horizontal LCD Monitor Arm Desk Stand (100-D16-B03) on my 3x Dell 2412m's.

But now going to 2x 27" X-stars or 1x27" X-star in Landscape and 1x 2412m in Portrait.

Guess I will have to get rid on my 100-D16-B03


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Good luck to both of you, my Xstar still amazes me everyday. Sold my 7950's and now I am without GPU's till Wednesday...but then I will have 2 R9-290's. My monitor overclocks to 120hz but I found the sweet spot is 110hz on BF4, 115 and up the colors dont seem to be as rich as 110.


Thanks. Hope you get unlockable 290s!


----------



## romboy

Well i am part of the club bought a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II 27" LED Monitor 12/2/13 from amazon the price was $339.00 the seller is ECOMADE ARENA anybody ever deal with them any feedback for me?It will be hear Monday.


----------



## mboner1

I decided to do a quick video to get impressions on whether or not you guys think it's tempered glass and glossy or tempered glass and matte, i think it's glossy but now unsure. Pretty crappy quality but might be able to tell something from it lol.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wabak*
> 
> Hi, wondering if anyone can give me some advice.
> 
> Looking at buying the X-Star from dream-seller on eBay, but after reading the bit about customs etc I'm worried I'll be charged a lot, and dream-seller is out of the office till tomorrow I assume.
> 
> I live in the UK, will I really get charged £100 on top of my purchase just for receiving the monitor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sent them an email, but really impatient and want to purchase it now haha...


Hi Webak, you could get hit with a hefty VAT/ import duty charge unfortunately. I haven't brought one personally yet so this is not from first hand experience, but i've been following the thread for some time now. A number of sellers will mark down the price and label the monitor as a gift which can reduce the charges but I don't think dream-seller will do it, I copied the following from his xstar listing:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CUSTOMS & DUTIES

With FedEx and EMS shipping, under-valuing is not possible. According to FedEx and EMS shipping policy.
Only the actual price must be declared.
Therefore, even if you ask us for under-valuing, if the product is being shipped out via FedEx and EMS,
we can't do under-valuing, and custom taxes will be levied on buyer's side. Please be aware of this notification.

We are not responsible any applicable customs charge, taxes and duties. These fees are not included in the item price or shipping cost. Such fees are to be paid by the buyer.

Please check with your country's custom office to determine what these additional cost will be prior to bidding or purchase.



As far as what the charges will be, there's some info on the front page:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



U.K.: From whybother
Marked at £30 the customs fee will simply be VAT or £6. The shipping company also charges a fee tho.
http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/
Monitors imported to the UK:
Value <£135 = 20%
Value >£135 = 14% (Duty) + 20% of Value + Duty
Plus shipping company fee.
http://www.dutycalculator.com/help_center/will-there-be-any-extra-charges-from-the-shipping-provider/
If the monitor was marked with a value of £250 and shipped via Royal Mail, your total customs fee would be £100. Gotta love this country...
If marked as a gift and less than £36 there should be no customs charge tho.



Unfortunately we don't have the same free trade agreement with South Korea that America has, so unless customs overlooks the package, there will always be some charge to pay on top of the initial price. Hope that helps.


----------



## TelFiRE

That seems like a looooot of dough to throw at just the stand. More than a monitor itself. I'm looking at this one instead: http://www.tykesupply.com/Triple_Monitor_Stands-Triple_Monitor_Stand_Free_Standing_Curved_Arm.html


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> have you placed the icc profile in c/windows/system32/spool/drivers/color and gone to color management and ticked "use my settings for this device" and added the icc profile in there?


Yep, followed the guide to the letter. I Can also use displayprofile to change them around, but i am not able to load them in mcw


----------



## wabak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hi Webak, you could get hit with a hefty VAT/ import duty charge unfortunately. I haven't brought one personally yet so this is not from first hand experience, but i've been following the thread for some time now. A number of sellers will mark down the price and label the monitor as a gift which can reduce the charges but I don't think dream-seller will do it, I copied the following from his xstar listing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CUSTOMS & DUTIES
> 
> With FedEx and EMS shipping, under-valuing is not possible. According to FedEx and EMS shipping policy.
> Only the actual price must be declared.
> Therefore, even if you ask us for under-valuing, if the product is being shipped out via FedEx and EMS,
> we can't do under-valuing, and custom taxes will be levied on buyer's side. Please be aware of this notification.
> 
> We are not responsible any applicable customs charge, taxes and duties. These fees are not included in the item price or shipping cost. Such fees are to be paid by the buyer.
> 
> Please check with your country's custom office to determine what these additional cost will be prior to bidding or purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> As far as what the charges will be, there's some info on the front page:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> U.K.: From whybother
> Marked at £30 the customs fee will simply be VAT or £6. The shipping company also charges a fee tho.
> http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/
> Monitors imported to the UK:
> Value <£135 = 20%
> Value >£135 = 14% (Duty) + 20% of Value + Duty
> Plus shipping company fee.
> http://www.dutycalculator.com/help_center/will-there-be-any-extra-charges-from-the-shipping-provider/
> If the monitor was marked with a value of £250 and shipped via Royal Mail, your total customs fee would be £100. Gotta love this country...
> If marked as a gift and less than £36 there should be no customs charge tho.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately we don't have the same free trade agreement with South Korea that America has, so unless customs overlooks the package, there will always be some charge to pay on top of the initial price. Hope that helps.


It does, thanks a lot mate. Completely missed that in his ad.

I'll wait on his reply, but otherwise I'll have to look for another seller as it's within my budget at £211, but adding a possible £100 ontop of that it's a no-go atm.


----------



## maka12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wabak*
> 
> It does, thanks a lot mate. Completely missed that in his ad.
> 
> I'll wait on his reply, but otherwise I'll have to look for another seller as it's within my budget at £211, but adding a possible £100 ontop of that it's a no-go atm.


no way you will pay 100pound I bought the same one from dreamseller 211pound , you will pay around 70 pounds its well worth it the monitor is amazing..


----------



## Marley217

So I just performed this tape mod that should fix the backlight bleed: 



This does not help one bit. This only means there is no light exiting from the sides, which is fine.

It might help you if: the bleed is lessened if you press the panel back (I guess?). Anyway, my bleed only gets worse when I press the panel back.
I have not found any before - after pictures, that proves that the tape mod actually fixes it. Which makes me think, the tape mod would not help anyone.

Before:









During:









*Much scare*









After:









For me, the problem is not caused by backlight bleeding. There does seem to be a pressure at the right corners of the panel. And the problem is probably located inside the panel.
Fixing this problem would probably need some slight bending of the metal backplate of the panel, and I'm way too scared to try that. But maybe, this problem is just not fixable.
David Thomson has disassembled the entire panel, and made very good informational videos about this. I don't really have the time to further investigate this any time soon. So maybe he knows more (is he active on this thread?), or someone else is willing to try.

Anyway, the backlight bleed (or whatever the right technical term is), is heavily exagerated on my pictures.
If I would take the same photograph, under the same settings of my sammie syncmaster, the screen would probably be entirely white!

Sorry for the humongous images :x

Edit: I've added sponges on the back to support the panel, and I've also removed the screws from the right side metal plate that attaches the panel to the bezel.
Both these things made absolutely zero difference to the backlight bleed. So the pressure points are indeed coming from inside the panel. If the problem is even caused by pressure points...


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wabak*
> 
> Hi, wondering if anyone can give me some advice.
> 
> Looking at buying the X-Star from dream-seller on eBay, but after reading the bit about customs etc I'm worried I'll be charged a lot, and dream-seller is out of the office till tomorrow I assume.
> 
> I live in the UK, will I really get charged £100 on top of my purchase just for receiving the monitor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sent them an email, but really impatient and want to purchase it now haha...


Does dream seller have the qnix? Im after one too but a seller called accessorieswhole im from the UK too


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

well I purchsed my x-star from dreamseller on thursday. According to ebay he hasnt shipped it yet. did it take awhile for the info to get updated for you guys?


----------



## hirtqt

Looking to order one of these bad boys, but I got a few questions:

1) What's the difference between QNIX and X-Star? I understand they are the same company but how does the bezels compare with each other?
2) What's the difference between matte and glossy? Is the extra $40 for a temper glassed monitor better at all?
3) What color bit is for each monitor?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hirtqt*
> 
> Looking to order one of these bad boys, but I got a few questions:
> 
> 1) What's the difference between QNIX and X-Star? I understand they are the same company but how does the bezels compare with each other?
> 2) What's the difference between matte and glossy? Is the extra $40 for a temper glassed monitor better at all?
> 3) What color bit is for each monitor?
> 
> Thanks for the help.


1) acorrding to many they are the same panel and same bezel
2)at this point there seems to be alot of confusion on if there is glossy under the temperd glass. also there seems to be no straight up glossy anymore, so there is only matte and tempered. from what iv gathered its a very light matte coating as well.
3) i beileve they are 8bit.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> 1) acorrding to many they are the same panel and same bezel
> 2)at this point there seems to be alot of confusion on if there is glossy under the temperd glass. also there seems to be no straight up glossy anymore, so there is only matte and tempered. from what iv gathered its a very light matte coating as well.
> 3) i beileve they are 8bit.


1) Correct they're the exact same panels nothing else.
2) Appears BGKris found an amazon seller still selling gloss.
3) Correct they're 8 bit


----------



## lwhitit

After reading half of this thread (and the other qnix thread here) I am convinced this was the right way to go. I was debating between the HP ZR2740w for $425 or the X-Star for $279 + square trade warranty for the last week. Hopefully I can track down a coupon for the warranty after x-mas to make this an even better deal. This will go nicely with u2412m that I picked up last year vs a Korean monitor. Thanks everyone for all the info on here. The monitor should be waiting for me when I get home on the 16th.


----------



## travanx

For anyone curious about tracking. This is how mine currently looks before delivery on the 9th.

Louisville, KY, United States 12/08/2013 4:51 P.M. Departure Scan
12/08/2013 11:56 A.M. Import Scan
12/08/2013 8:58 A.M. Arrival Scan
12/08/2013 8:15 A.M. Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Released by Clearing Agency. Now in-transit
Anchorage, AK, United States 12/07/2013 10:45 P.M. Departure Scan
12/07/2013 9:02 P.M. Arrival Scan
Incheon, Korea, Republic of 12/08/2013 7:10 A.M. Departure Scan
Louisville, KY, United States 12/07/2013 7:42 A.M. Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Shipment submitted to Clearing Agency, awaiting final release.
Incheon, Korea, Republic of 12/07/2013 5:32 P.M. Export Scan
12/07/2013 4:25 P.M. Arrival Scan
Seoul, Korea, Republic of 12/07/2013 4:20 P.M. Departure Scan
12/07/2013 3:06 P.M. Origin Scan
12/07/2013 10:52 A.M. Pickup Scan
Korea, Republic of 12/06/2013 2:29 A.M. Order Processed: Ready for UPS


----------



## Vesanius

Meh.. Opened the monitor to fix the pane positioning, which was a little too low. Well got that fixed and the panel is now perfectly centered, but I had hard times opening those clips on top of the monitor and broke the plastic a little which now looks a bit ugly







Oh well I guess it will do.. Maybe I'll de-bezel this one day anyway.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *travanx*
> 
> For anyone curious about tracking. This is how mine currently looks before delivery on the 9th.
> 
> Louisville, KY, United States 12/08/2013 4:51 P.M. Departure Scan
> 12/08/2013 11:56 A.M. Import Scan
> 12/08/2013 8:58 A.M. Arrival Scan
> 12/08/2013 8:15 A.M. Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Released by Clearing Agency. Now in-transit
> Anchorage, AK, United States 12/07/2013 10:45 P.M. Departure Scan
> 12/07/2013 9:02 P.M. Arrival Scan
> Incheon, Korea, Republic of 12/08/2013 7:10 A.M. Departure Scan
> Louisville, KY, United States 12/07/2013 7:42 A.M. Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Shipment submitted to Clearing Agency, awaiting final release.
> Incheon, Korea, Republic of 12/07/2013 5:32 P.M. Export Scan
> 12/07/2013 4:25 P.M. Arrival Scan
> Seoul, Korea, Republic of 12/07/2013 4:20 P.M. Departure Scan
> 12/07/2013 3:06 P.M. Origin Scan
> 12/07/2013 10:52 A.M. Pickup Scan
> Korea, Republic of 12/06/2013 2:29 A.M. Order Processed: Ready for UPS


when did you buy the monitor orgianlly?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 1) Correct they're the exact same panels nothing else.
> 2) Appears BGKris found an amazon seller still selling gloss.
> 3) Correct they're 8 bit


I think so! Just waiting for the comparison pictures they promised.


----------



## 271973

I overclocked my Qnix to 120hz earlier and it works great. I use LCD Reduced setting in CRU. Gaming is also great.

However, I have just noticed that the OC to 120hz makes my 780 Ti use 55% GPU power (with 0% GPU usage), and that a 96hz OC uses 25% power.

Is this normal? It causes my idle temperatures to be 55c which is 20c above what it is at standard 60hz.

EDIT: I run a dual monitor setup, 1x Qnix and 1x 1080p monitor.


----------



## MGMG8GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> I overclocked my Qnix to 120hz earlier and it works great. I use LCD Reduced setting in CRU. Gaming is also great.
> 
> However, I have just noticed that the OC to 120hz makes my 780 Ti use 55% GPU power (with 0% GPU usage), and that a 96hz OC uses 25% power.
> 
> Is this normal? It causes my idle temperatures to be 55c which is 20c above what it is at standard 60hz.
> 
> EDIT: I run a dual monitor setup, 1x Qnix and 1x 1080p monitor.


I run AMD and have the same problem. BTW how do you get it to run LCD Reduced? I try to select that and it just saves as manual


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGMG8GT*
> 
> I run AMD and have the same problem. BTW how do you get it to run LCD Reduced? I try to select that and it just saves as manual


I just selected LCD Reduced in 'Timings' and hit OK. To be honest, I find CRU a bit buggy and the recommended 'copy' 'paste' method has never worked for me. No idea why.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

guys what mount are you using with your montior? ideally I dont want to go over 50 bucks? and i would like it to go up down tilt /swing and extend closer .
iv seen a few on monoprice? those any good?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> guys what mount are you using with your montior? ideally I dont want to go over 50 bucks? and i would like it to go up down tilt /swing and extend closer .
> iv seen a few on monoprice? those any good?


This may work?
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2&ref=cj


----------



## Warsteiner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> guys what mount are you using with your montior? ideally I dont want to go over 50 bucks? and i would like it to go up down tilt /swing and extend closer .
> iv seen a few on monoprice? those any good?


I ordered this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HHNCQY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It is for 2 monitors but it was Under $50 and I am sure you can hook just 1 mount up if you need too. These mounts are usually designed to be configurable and modular. I bought it because after 111 reviews it still has a 5 star review. I will let you know when it arrives how it actually is.


----------



## lightsout

That is an excellent mount. I used it for dual 24"s. It is very sturdy. I'm not sure about using it for one as I don't remember if the arms can come off. But honestly I never considered it.

After I got rid of it I got a single mount from monoprice and was disappointed as the quality was no where near the one from amazon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warsteiner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> guys what mount are you using with your montior? ideally I dont want to go over 50 bucks? and i would like it to go up down tilt /swing and extend closer .
> iv seen a few on monoprice? those any good?
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HHNCQY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It is for 2 monitors but it was Under $50 and I am sure you can hook just 1 mount up if you need too. These mounts are usually designed to be configurable and modular. I bought it because after 111 reviews it still has a 5 star review. I will let you know when it arrives how it actually is.
Click to expand...


----------



## travanx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> when did you buy the monitor orgianlly?


12/5 at around midnight PST. So it was shipped within 24 hours. If it gets here Monday that's really fast and only the weekend messed up the speed. But seeing how it went back to Korea, to AK and then back to KY and now is in Oakland,CA tonight that's even more impressive. Could the package really go back and forth twice before getting to CA though?


----------



## Stige

Is there any sure fire way to know if it is actual Glossy or Tempered Glass?
I honestly got no idea how to tell and would love to know so I can remove that tempered crap from the monitor if it is like that infact.
The screen feels like plastic and I get no artifacts when I press on it with my thumb, even if I press pretty hard on it.

If I take it apart will the Tempered bit just come off and result in a matte panel? I saw the pic a few pages ago that someone removed it or something from the monitor and it became so much more clearer.
And again, I'm not sure if mine is even blurred or not, it SEEMS pretty clear to my eyes.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

wow thanks guys for the replys! I looked at them all, Im also serisoulsy thinking of this one. since it can be mounted thru a cable gormet hole in my desk.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Desktop-Monitor-TV-LCD-LED-Cantilever-Swivel-Mount-Desk-Table-17-19-20-21-22-23-/121137276209?pt=US_TV_Mounts_Brackets&hash=item1c34582531


----------



## rwong48

Just fooled around trying to get 120Hz to work on my work MacBook Pro (late 2013 with nvidia GT 750M, yes the $2599 model, no I would never pay for this crap). I'm using an X-Star with the Monoprice mini displayport to dual-link DVI adapter.

It's been working fine with 120Hz on Windows. I've been switching the cable back and forth between my pc and the monoprice adapter to my mbp, which is really annoying.

Using SwitchResX, I couldn't get 120Hz to work at all, but I got 85Hz to work, and it looked like crap. Text was shadowy. Needless to say, I'm stuck with 60Hz when using this thing with a mac. god, I hate this ecosystem. (it even maxes out at 100Hz on my BenQ XL2420T, which does 120Hz natively, and has DisplayPort natively.)

I'm still tempted to try the multi-input model. I've given up with gaming on the Samsung PLS - input lag, response time, and FPS are just that much faster with the 1080p XL2420T - so I'm not too concerned about the additional input lag from a multi-input Samsung PLS. I just want 120Hz to work. my eyes can't use 60Hz any more.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Is there any sure fire way to know if it is actual Glossy or Tempered Glass?
> I honestly got no idea how to tell and would love to know so I can remove that tempered crap from the monitor if it is like that infact.
> The screen feels like plastic and I get no artifacts when I press on it with my thumb, even if I press pretty hard on it.
> 
> If I take it apart will the Tempered bit just come off and result in a matte panel? I saw the pic a few pages ago that someone removed it or something from the monitor and it became so much more clearer.
> And again, I'm not sure if mine is even blurred or not, it SEEMS pretty clear to my eyes.


it's most likely glass.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Mralternation

Has anyone found any nice monitor stands for the x-star other than the ones that are provided in the main page of this thread?


----------



## Stige

I guess the only way to know is to dissemble it all, time to get to work me thinks...


----------



## lightsout

I doubt it. Mine showed like it landed in Kentucky first. But I realized it was just an anticipation. As it came in through Anchorage. I think it eventually did hit Kentucky. The tracking seemed really weird though. Reads funky
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *travanx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> when did you buy the monitor orgianlly?
> 
> 
> 
> 12/5 at around midnight PST. So it was shipped within 24 hours. If it gets here Monday that's really fast and only the weekend messed up the speed. But seeing how it went back to Korea, to AK and then back to KY and now is in Oakland,CA tonight that's even more impressive. Could the package really go back and forth twice before getting to CA though?
Click to expand...


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I guess the only way to know is to dissemble it all, time to get to work me thinks...


Yup, tempered glass it was, which is now a bit shattered








Prying it off = Not a gut plan! But with razor it came off real easy and quick.

But the weird thing to me is, it still looks like glossy even without the glass!

A few (crappy) pictures:

Just glued to the panel itself


This is what you get when you just try to pry it off with a screwdriver lol


Proper way to do it


Still looks like Glossy to me?


Just some glass on there, no visible damage whatsoever to the monitor itself


The glass


Working just fine


----------



## Ovrclck

Now you have just a plain matte


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Now you have just a plain matte


My XL2420T looked nothing like this and it was matte, got like zero reflection on it but this sure looks very glossy compared to how the XL2420T was atleast.
If this is their definition of Matte then what is that on the XL2420T lol


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> My XL2420T looked nothing like this and it was matte, got like zero reflection on it but this sure looks very glossy compared to how the XL2420T was atleast.
> If this is their definition of Matte then what is that on the XL2420T lol


Yeah the matte in Qnix isn't much of a matte. Got quite a bit of reflection myself too.


----------



## sntflw

Hello there,

couple of days ago I received my Qnix2710 from hulustar - very much like it, zero dead pixels but some BLB if I'm correct. Read something, and some people say it's normal to have these bright corners at PLS/IPS panels, so I'm curious if I could fix this with the tape mod, or if it's really just how the monitor "is".. would be thankful for some advice.

With the tapemod, I think I'll feel kind of..uncomfortable removing the metal frame, would it be enough to simply remove the black bezel and apply some tape where the BLB exists? I couldnt really find any video/how-to on how to safely/correctly remove the metal frame yet.

Thanks for your help.

This is how it looks, black screen, but of course because of my phone's camera, it looks way more bright than it actually is.


Lowered the brightness on the phone, this is more how it looks like in reality (to me):



I can feel that the black bezel is sitting really tight at the display/panel where the brightness occurs, is this because the metal frame is a bit bent? (This is just what I assume by reading this thread) - Is this fixable?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> My XL2420T looked nothing like this and it was matte, got like zero reflection on it but this sure looks very glossy compared to how the XL2420T was atleast.
> If this is their definition of Matte then what is that on the XL2420T lol


That's awesome! No scratches on the bezel from the razor or anything?
If you had to say, is it more glossy without the glass, or pretty much the same?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Now you have just a plain matte
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My XL2420T looked nothing like this and it was matte, got like zero reflection on it but this sure looks very glossy compared to how the XL2420T was atleast.
> If this is their definition of Matte then what is that on the XL2420T lol
Click to expand...

That shot where its clean looks like a glossy panel to me. But pics are deceiving.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sntflw*
> 
> Hello there,
> 
> couple of days ago I received my Qnix2710 from hulustar - very much like it, zero dead pixels but some BLB if I'm correct. Read something, and some people say it's normal to have these bright corners at PLS/IPS panels, so I'm curious if I could fix this with the tape mod, or if it's really just how the monitor "is".. would be thankful for some advice.
> 
> With the tapemod, I think I'll feel kind of..uncomfortable removing the metal frame, would it be enough to simply remove the black bezel and apply some tape where the BLB exists? I couldnt really find any video/how-to on how to safely/correctly remove the metal frame yet.
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> This is how it looks, black screen, but of course because of my phone's camera, it looks way more bright than it actually is.
> 
> 
> Lowered the brightness on the phone, this is more how it looks like in reality (to me):
> 
> 
> 
> I can feel that the black bezel is sitting really tight at the display/panel where the brightness occurs, is this because the metal frame is a bit bent? (This is just what I assume by reading this thread) - Is this fixable?


The tapemod will not help a single bit against your backlight problem. Because I'm pretty sure all PLS panels have this. Well atleast my panel has this, and the tapemod did not help one bit.
I think it's just an inherent flaw of this panel. But hey, I honestly still love the blacks. I have a desklight which makes it pretty much impossible for me to ever see... Again, if You/I would take the same photograph of any tn panel, the screen would be a lot brighter.

I took apart the entire monitor, and there are no tight spots/pressure points. Maybe there are pressure points inside the panel, but I'm not opening that one up
Actually, all photographs that show any bleed, show the highest amount of bleed at the right side. Is this where the LEDs are located? I'm pretty sure it's caused by the way this panel was designed.


----------



## sntflw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> The tapemod will not help a single bit against your backlight problem. Because I'm pretty sure all PLS panels have this. Well atleast my panel has this, and the tapemod did not help one bit.
> I think it's just an inherent flaw of this panel. But hey, I honestly still love the blacks. I have a desklight which makes it pretty much impossible for me to ever see... Again, if You/I would take the same photograph of any tn panel, the screen would be a lot brighter.
> 
> I took apart the entire monitor, and there are no tight spots/pressure points. Maybe there are pressure points inside the panel, but I'm not opening that one up
> Actually, all photographs that show any bleed, show the highest amount of bleed at the right side. Is this where the LEDs are located? I'm pretty sure it's caused by the way this panel was designed.


Thanks for your reply, but you say there are no tight spots - when I put my finger on the lower bezel, at some points, there's a gap between bezel and panel itself, just big enough for my finger nail. Moving to left and right, I notice that this gap at some points (at the right end e.g.) is non-existent, so I thought this may be the source of the backlight bleed. Just wanted to check if anyone else had some sort of changing in the "bezel-display-gap-size" or does know if this can result in such backlight bleed.
Maybe I'll try to open the monitor in the next days and see if it's getting any better.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sntflw*
> 
> Thanks for your reply, but you say there are no tight spots - when I put my finger on the lower bezel, at some points, there's a gap between bezel and panel itself, just big enough for my finger nail. Moving to left and right, I notice that this gap at some points (at the right end e.g.) is non-existent, so I thought this may be the source of the backlight bleed. Just wanted to check if anyone else had some sort of changing in the "bezel-display-gap-size" or does know if this can result in such backlight bleed.
> Maybe I'll try to open the monitor in the next days and see if it's getting any better.


There is absolutely no pressure coming from the bezel. Trust me. I also tried the panel without the bezel attached. The front bezel that is. Still the same bleed.
There are even soft sponges on the backside of the panel to support the panel. It has nothing to do with the bezel, or the support system. It's inside the panel.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> There is absolutely no pressure coming from the bezel. Trust me. I also tried the panel without the bezel attached. The front bezel that is. Still the same bleed.
> There are even soft sponges on the backside of the panel to support the panel. It has nothing to do with the bezel, or the support system. It's inside the panel.


Wow, crazy. good to know!


----------



## m3us

All this backlight bleeding is making me nervous...
Is the back light bleeding visible always or only when its dark/black?


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Wow, crazy. good to know!


No problem. I wouldn't recommend taking apart your panel, unless some already figured out a mod that actually works, with actual proof.
I was very careful, but still damaged the plastic bezel slightly. Fortunately I was already planning to take it apart to remove the stand.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Yup, tempered glass it was, which is now a bit shattered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prying it off = Not a gut plan! But with razor it came off real easy and quick.
> 
> But the weird thing to me is, it still looks like glossy even without the glass!
> 
> A few (crappy) pictures:
> 
> Just glued to the panel itself
> 
> 
> This is what you get when you just try to pry it off with a screwdriver lol
> 
> 
> Proper way to do it
> 
> 
> Still looks like Glossy to me?
> 
> 
> Just some glass on there, no visible damage whatsoever to the monitor itself
> 
> 
> The glass
> 
> 
> Working just fine


People saying that's matte has gots to be blind.

Clearly glossy man, you prefer it with or without the glass? Your gonna have to get use to it now anyway haha


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> No problem. I wouldn't recommend taking apart your panel, unless some already figured out a mod that actually works, with actual proof.
> I was very careful, but still damaged the plastic bezel slightly. Fortunately I was already planning to take it apart to remove the stand.


+Rep for your efforts.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Yup, tempered glass it was, which is now a bit shattered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prying it off = Not a gut plan! But with razor it came off real easy and quick.
> 
> But the weird thing to me is, it still looks like glossy even without the glass!
> 
> Proper way to do it


Well this is good news, proves that its on securely so you can easily debezel and not worry about it coming off, though I believe people still remove the gray frame around it to make it even thinner, I'll have to verify. Either way







+1 for your findings!
Quote:


> Still looks like Glossy to me?


Yup Very, can you put a piece of glass up to the screen and see if you see a difference in sharpness on text? Becareful when you do it just put it flat lol. Which seller did you get this from so we know who has the REAL gloss underneath.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> People saying that's matte has gots to be blind.
> 
> Clearly glossy man, you prefer it with or without the glass? Your gonna have to get use to it now anyway haha


It should be the same and or nicer w/o it, though many claim it makes it look even better, I have mine next to my current gloss and the only diff I really see I think is sharpness, it's not crazy but I can notice if I really pay attention.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> +Rep for your efforts.


Yes this +1


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> +Rep for your efforts.


Thanks!!


----------



## Warsteiner

My monitor shipped today from Dream-Seller on E-Bay. Here is hoping I get a good one!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warsteiner*
> 
> My monitor shipped today from Dream-Seller on E-Bay. Here is hoping I get a good one!


----------



## lightsout

I'm still in a holding pattern with my broken monitor sitting next to me. The seller filed with UPS on friday, so the weekend was dead time. They are trying to rush ups to give a return label then I will get my refund when they receive the monitor.

I could escalate and get ebay involved which I have threatened. But I believe ebays policy is that the buyer pays return shipping. So that doesn't really help me. So I think the seller is doing as he should it just sucks to have this thing sitting here for a week.


----------



## LunaP

Just ordered another monitor from greensum, and also emailed him about returning the other. This way I'll get a new one to replace the other by the time I get the shipment information hopefully. After that just awaiting the Ergo's to come back in stock and get one and debezel these things for some amazing surround









Showed my friend the monitor and put it next to his Asus 120hz 278H or w/e its called, he's returning that now and grabbing 2 of these.


----------



## romboy

wow all good no dead pixels no light bleed wow.


----------



## deploring

Hey guys, looking to pull the trigger on one of these babies tonight. Just a few questions before I do!

I've been reading and you guys have said the glossy version is out of stock? What would this be then?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3

Seems kinda weird that that has a price tag so much lower than the matte version. Also is the 3 year warranty worth it? I'm extremely OCD about dead pixels and things like that, and I've read that some people have had their monitors stop working within 5 months-1year so that scares me.


----------



## animatedculture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> There is absolutely no pressure coming from the bezel. Trust me. I also tried the panel without the bezel attached. The front bezel that is. Still the same bleed.
> There are even soft sponges on the backside of the panel to support the panel. It has nothing to do with the bezel, or the support system. It's inside the panel.


This is true, i tried tape mod twice, straightened the bezel, i don't know what else i can do. I took off the metal bezel and the bleed is the exactly the same with the bezel on. My monitor has BLB but its not so bad, I got use it . I rather have BLB than dead pixels. 300 dollars, best computer investment =]


----------



## xorxhs

I did try to oc my Qnix model. I have patched ATI drivers and set up a new resolution with 96Hz with utility. Rebooted but still cant change refresh rate above 60 Hz through CCP. Any ideas?


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animatedculture*
> 
> This is true, i tried tape mod twice, straightened the bezel, i don't know what else i can do. I took off the metal bezel and the bleed is the exactly the same with the bezel on. My monitor has BLB but its not so bad, I got use it . I rather have BLB than dead pixels. *300 dollars, best computer investment* =]


Couldn't agree more.
Actually, all the BLB I've seen so far is extremely similar. It's by far, the worst at the right corners, and the bleed is reddish.
I doubt any mod could fix this unfortunately... But hey, it's literally impossible to see with normal use...


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> That's awesome! No scratches on the bezel from the razor or anything?
> If you had to say, is it more glossy without the glass, or pretty much the same?


I would say it's still Glossy even without the glass, maybe a bit more clear text. I'll try to take a comparison shot as the glass is now shattered like one half with glass and other without, just need a find a proper camera to borrow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> That shot where its clean looks like a glossy panel to me. But pics are deceiving.


It looks exactly like that in person aswell, reflects so well for supposedly being matter under tempered glass.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Well this is good news, proves that its on securely so you can easily debezel and not worry about it coming off, though I believe people still remove the gray frame around it to make it even thinner, I'll have to verify. Either way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 for your findings!
> Yup Very, can you put a piece of glass up to the screen and see if you see a difference in sharpness on text? Becareful when you do it just put it flat lol. Which seller did you get this from so we know who has the REAL gloss underneath.


Yeah was my plan originaly, read the top of this post ^^
Seller was overclockonitor.com
Just ordered the standard Glossy, no perfect pixel or anything like that.


----------



## LotionExplosion

So my order is going to get here ridiculously fast.



I am still incredibly nervous and hope I get a model with no dead pixels and minimal backlight bleeding.. By the way, how is backlight bleeding to most people in person? Is it worth taking the monitor apart, or is it just a minor thing? If it isn't a big issue, I think I'll probably just leave my monitor as is.


----------



## Stige

Don't notice the bleed in normal use at all.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> So my order is going to get here ridiculously fast.
> 
> 
> 
> I am still incredibly nervous and hope I get a model with no dead pixels and minimal backlight bleeding.. By the way, how is backlight bleeding to most people in person? Is it worth taking the monitor apart, or is it just a minor thing? If it isn't a big issue, I think I'll probably just leave my monitor as is.


Some backlight bleeding is normal for any monitor out of the box.

Severe backlight bleeding (extending 5cm or deeper from the perimeter to the center) is not normal though.


----------



## travanx

Not going to overclock yet as I can't find my other crossfire adapter for the 7950's. Unpacked the Qnix matte perfect pixel from worldbest365, and nothing wrong physically with the monitor. Eventually figured how to get the 2 HP LP2475W's working with the Qnix all connected on one card.

Very happy with this as I mainly work on construction plans. So the Qnix is in the middle and the others are on the sides to throw Architect's plans on while I work. Tried dead pixel backgrounds really quick and don't see any dead pixels. Very happy and will use this for a few days before I try to modify anything. Can't wait to order a new mount as I want this higher than the stock setting.

I think I am convinced enough to get 2 more of these in the next couple of months. How would I go about connecting three displays to my 7950's? The card the current setup is connected into has 2 DVI and one Displayport. And the Qnix is in the top DVI. For gaming I would still probably only use a single monitor.


----------



## Stige

Few comparison pictures with the tempered glass on the left side, taken with awful phone camera as I don't have a real one.

Not sure if it blurs much at all but it sure makes everything a wee bit darker.


----------



## wabak

Bought the X-Star from dream-seller yesterday, spoke with him a little about customs and that, at this stage I just really want my hands on the monitor haha.


----------



## Marley217

Soooo, does anyone have three of these monitors running next to eachother debezeled?

I reckon you would need quite the GPU to run games on this resolution


----------



## mage182

My X-Star was delivered yesterday. Took 4 business days. No damage, no backlight bleeding, no dead pixels. Will overclock once my 780 is delivered today. I'll def be ordering a second X-Star so I have a pair.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I would say it's still Glossy even without the glass, maybe a bit more clear text. I'll try to take a comparison shot as the glass is now shattered like one half with glass and other without, just need a find a proper camera to borrow.
> It looks exactly like that in person aswell, reflects so well for supposedly being matter under tempered glass.
> Yeah was my plan originaly, read the top of this post ^^
> Seller was overclockonitor.com
> Just ordered the standard Glossy, no perfect pixel or anything like that.


Thanks, I'm about to ship 2 of my monitors back to Greensum as well as cancel the one I just ordered, I have one email where after I explained the differences between gloss and matte and what I wanted, and asked him to be truthful he stated it was gloss underneath, he then responded it"s gloss no worries no matte, but now after ordering the new monitor from him to replace the bad one I got, I put down that I wanted the same model as last time the tempered glass with gloss ( since he doesn't carry glossy by itself ) I got the shipment info yesterday morning and then this morning I received an email from him saying he's confused that there is no such thing as tempered glass with gloss, its gloss + matte + glass = tempered. So that concludes my suspicion on the small difference I"m seeing between the 3.

I wrote back to him, and pretty rageful at this time, asking him to re explain himself as I re-explained and copy / pasted his previous email swearing it was gloss underneath. If he comes back it's matte, then thats 5 negative ratings he gets since thats 5 monitors now I've attempted through him, first 2 I passed off as a mistake , 2nd 2 he swore on and the last was to replace one due to color issues. Now it appears I'll be canceling the recent order and sending both back if he's lying. Thank god for Ebay's buyer protection. Tired of these games and language barriers.

You mentioned standard glossy though but it came w/ the glass?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Soooo, does anyone have three of these monitors running next to eachother debezeled?
> 
> I reckon you would need quite the GPU to run games on this resolution


Not to much most can just it'd be recommended SLI for high end settings if you were to run Surround. I have SLI off atm and 1 Titan runs on 3 just fine, so the 780 would tackle it just as easy, and the 290 would def have no issue.

I plan on debezeling mine once I have all true gloss.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I would say it's still Glossy even without the glass, maybe a bit more clear text. I'll try to take a comparison shot as the glass is now shattered like one half with glass and other without, just need a find a proper camera to borrow.
> It looks exactly like that in person aswell, reflects so well for supposedly being matter under tempered glass.
> Yeah was my plan originaly, read the top of this post ^^
> Seller was overclockonitor.com
> Just ordered the standard Glossy, no perfect pixel or anything like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'm about to ship 2 of my monitors back to Greensum as well as cancel the one I just ordered, I have one email where after I explained the differences between gloss and matte and what I wanted, and asked him to be truthful he stated it was gloss underneath, he then responded it"s gloss no worries no matte, but now after ordering the new monitor from him to replace the bad one I got, I put down that I wanted the same model as last time the tempered glass with gloss ( since he doesn't carry glossy by itself ) I got the shipment info yesterday morning and then this morning I received an email from him saying he's confused that there is no such thing as tempered glass with gloss, its gloss + matte + glass = tempered. So that concludes my suspicion on the small difference I"m seeing between the 3.
> 
> I wrote back to him, and pretty rageful at this time, asking him to re explain himself as I re-explained and copy / pasted his previous email swearing it was gloss underneath. If he comes back it's matte, then thats 5 negative ratings he gets since thats 5 monitors now I've attempted through him, first 2 I passed off as a mistake , 2nd 2 he swore on and the last was to replace one due to color issues. Now it appears I'll be canceling the recent order and sending both back if he's lying. Thank god for Ebay's buyer protection. Tired of these games and language barriers.
> 
> You mentioned standard glossy though but it came w/ the glass?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Soooo, does anyone have three of these monitors running next to eachother debezeled?
> 
> I reckon you would need quite the GPU to run games on this resolution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not to much most can just it'd be recommended SLI for high end settings if you were to run Surround. I have SLI off atm and 1 Titan runs on 3 just fine, so the 780 would tackle it just as easy, and the 290 would def have no issue.
> 
> I plan on debezeling mine once I have all true gloss.
Click to expand...

So you returned the monitor that has the coating removed and a scratched panel? Did you let him know?

For anyone wondering wolrdsbest365 is definitely greensum. I finally got my return label for my broken monitor and the label came from greensum_cs.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thanks, I'm about to ship 2 of my monitors back to Greensum as well as cancel the one I just ordered, I have one email where after I explained the differences between gloss and matte and what I wanted, and asked him to be truthful he stated it was gloss underneath, he then responded it"s gloss no worries no matte, but now after ordering the new monitor from him to replace the bad one I got, I put down that I wanted the same model as last time the tempered glass with gloss ( since he doesn't carry glossy by itself ) I got the shipment info yesterday morning and then this morning I received an email from him saying he's confused that there is no such thing as tempered glass with gloss, its gloss + matte + glass = tempered. So that concludes my suspicion on the small difference I"m seeing between the 3.
> 
> I wrote back to him, and pretty rageful at this time, asking him to re explain himself as I re-explained and copy / pasted his previous email swearing it was gloss underneath. If he comes back it's matte, then thats 5 negative ratings he gets since thats 5 monitors now I've attempted through him, first 2 I passed off as a mistake , 2nd 2 he swore on and the last was to replace one due to color issues. Now it appears I'll be canceling the recent order and sending both back if he's lying. Thank god for Ebay's buyer protection. Tired of these games and language barriers.
> 
> You mentioned standard glossy though but it came w/ the glass?
> Not to much most can just it'd be recommended SLI for high end settings if you were to run Surround. I have SLI off atm and 1 Titan runs on 3 just fine, so the 780 would tackle it just as easy, and the 290 would def have no issue.
> 
> I plan on debezeling mine once I have all true gloss.


What the, so, I guess you aren't able to run games on ultra right?
Edit, sorry, you've already answered this


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So you returned the monitor that has the coating removed and a scratched panel? Did you let him know?
> 
> For anyone wondering wolrdsbest365 is definitely greensum. I finally got my return label for my broken monitor and the label came from greensum_cs.


Ive no reason to return the original on thats my xstar its the best out of all of them. I cant see the scratch unless enough light and at an angle I have it on my left.

The 2 im returning are qnix from greensum, just awaiting his reply. He wants a pic of the monitor that has washed out colors though not sure how to procure it as photos cant justify color when its a 20% difference. Its both offset and also like reducing vibrance by 20 and increasing doesnt help it just bleeds. Its either yellos or blues thats off.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Thanks, I'm about to ship 2 of my monitors back to Greensum as well as cancel the one I just ordered, I have one email where after I explained the differences between gloss and matte and what I wanted, and asked him to be truthful he stated it was gloss underneath, he then responded it"s gloss no worries no matte, but now after ordering the new monitor from him to replace the bad one I got, I put down that I wanted the same model as last time the tempered glass with gloss ( since he doesn't carry glossy by itself ) I got the shipment info yesterday morning and then this morning I received an email from him saying he's confused that there is no such thing as tempered glass with gloss, its gloss + matte + glass = tempered. So that concludes my suspicion on the small difference I"m seeing between the 3.
> 
> I wrote back to him, and pretty rageful at this time, asking him to re explain himself as I re-explained and copy / pasted his previous email swearing it was gloss underneath. If he comes back it's matte, then thats 5 negative ratings he gets since thats 5 monitors now I've attempted through him, first 2 I passed off as a mistake , 2nd 2 he swore on and the last was to replace one due to color issues. Now it appears I'll be canceling the recent order and sending both back if he's lying. Thank god for Ebay's buyer protection. Tired of these games and language barriers.
> 
> You mentioned standard glossy though but it came w/ the glass?
> Not to much most can just it'd be recommended SLI for high end settings if you were to run Surround. I have SLI off atm and 1 Titan runs on 3 just fine, so the 780 would tackle it just as easy, and the 290 would def have no issue.
> 
> I plan on debezeling mine once I have all true gloss.


This is the one I ordered http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-gsy.html

And it looks pretty Glossy to me even without the tempered glass on it, I mean the reflection is not blurred or anything even slightest, it's a clear mirror.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Okay I have a u2711 I HATE the coating. Im returning it

I have a U2713HM or another monitor in my sights the X-star

Which one would be better? Thanks!


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> This is the one I ordered http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-gsy.html
> 
> And it looks pretty Glossy to me even without the tempered glass on it, I mean the reflection is not blurred or anything even slightest, it's a clear mirror.


FYI green-sum gets his monitors from overclock monitor.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Okay I have a u2711 I HATE the coating. Im returning it
> 
> I have a U2713HM or another monitor in my sights the X-star
> 
> Which one would be better? Thanks!


X star as you can get it in gloss or remove the coating from your u2711 yourself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> FYI green-sum gets his monitors from overclock monitor.


Curious how you found this bit of info, but also weird that greensum would state that the monitors are not gloss underneath and don't exist if he does indeed get them from here....


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> X star as you can get it in gloss or remove the coating from your u2711 yourself.
> Curious how you found this bit of info, but also weird that greensum would state that the monitors are not gloss underneath and don't exist if he does indeed get them from here....


The coating is okay just the u2711 is a hard coat and looks bad on whites. How well does the X-star usually overclock and does it make a reasonable difference (never seen true 120hz or anything over 60hz)


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> X star as you can get it in gloss or remove the coating from your u2711 yourself.
> Curious how you found this bit of info, but also weird that greensum would state that the monitors are not gloss underneath and don't exist if he does indeed get them from here....


http://green-sum.com/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-tg.html

Link takes you to his personal store. Descriptions of all monitors says the monitors are provided by overclock monitors.com


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> http://green-sum.com/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-tg.html
> 
> Link takes you to his personal store. Descriptions of all monitors says the monitors are provided by overclock monitors.com


FYI:

green-sum = overclockmonitor = green-sum.com

I spoke to the same "rep" on all three when I was trying to buy a second REAL glossy QNIX. Each eventually admitted they had been selling the Tempered Glass version as the "New" Glossy QNIX.

Also notice all the graphics on overclockmonitor match their ebay store, even says "Platinum Seller" on the site, which is an ebay seller rating and makes no sense for a retailer outside of ebay.

I would say buy from ebay if you want buyer protection from green-sum, buying from that site means you are stuck with their own made up rules.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> The coating is okay just the u2711 is a hard coat and looks bad on whites. How well does the X-star usually overclock and does it make a reasonable difference (never seen true 120hz or anything over 60hz)


99.99% guaranteed minimum of 96hz which is noticeable over 60, most go 110-120 easily.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> 99.99% guaranteed minimum of 96hz which is noticeable over 60, most go 110-120 easily.


How horrible is the color and or stand?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So you returned the monitor that has the coating removed and a scratched panel? Did you let him know?
> 
> For anyone wondering wolrdsbest365 is definitely greensum. I finally got my return label for my broken monitor and the label came from greensum_cs.
> 
> 
> 
> Ive no reason to return the original on thats my xstar its the best out of all of them. I cant see the scratch unless enough light and at an angle I have it on my left.
> 
> The 2 im returning are qnix from greensum, just awaiting his reply. He wants a pic of the monitor that has washed out colors though not sure how to procure it as photos cant justify color when its a 20% difference. Its both offset and also like reducing vibrance by 20 and increasing doesnt help it just bleeds. Its either yellos or blues thats off.
Click to expand...

Oh so you did get a wonky one?

Who's been buying from dream seller lately? Does he use ups or dhl to the USA? Don't think I am going with greensum again once he gives me my refund. Dream seller looks like the one unless anyone has any reason not to.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> How horrible is the color and or stand?


Stands fine once you prop it in, if you're a heavy typer or bang your desk you may see wobble, though I have 3 so they're against eachother so I no longer see this though I'm gonna put them on arms anyways. Color's beautiful on 2/3 just the only one something's off and I can't for the life of me figure out which it is. And 2 are perfectly in sync and I wanna fix this else it'll drive me nuts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oh so you did get a wonky one?
> 
> Who's been buying from dream seller lately? Does he use ups or dhl to the USA? Don't think I am going with greensum again once he gives me my refund. Dream seller looks like the one unless anyone has any reason not to.


Just the color as mentioned above, and not sure, I gave up w/ dream as he kept telling me gloss is no longer in production and matte is all he carries. He was straight forward though which I appreciated.


----------



## Yume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Who's been buying from dream seller lately? Does he use ups or dhl to the USA? Don't think I am going with greensum again once he gives me my refund. Dream seller looks like the one unless anyone has any reason not to.


Dream-seller used Fedex, at least with me and The Storm.


----------



## Jetlitheone

How much is customs on these?


----------



## LotionExplosion

Dream seller is using FedEx for mine as well. Should be here in a couple days!

I know this is a heavily debatable subject, but is 120hz even really worth it? I was considering bumping up the refresh rate on my monitor, but can you actually notice it that well in games? Also, how are people finding the 8ms response time on these monitors? I'm pretty big on DotA 2, if that helps any.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> Dream seller is using FedEx for mine as well. Should be here in a couple days!
> 
> I know this is a heavily debatable subject, but is 120hz even really worth it? I was considering bumping up the refresh rate on my monitor, but can you actually notice it that well in games? Also, how are people finding the 8ms response time on these monitors? I'm pretty big on DotA 2, if that helps any.


The response is actually 5-6ms as opposed to 8 which is incorrectly displayed on many Ebay pages. As for 120 vs 96 I don't notice to much, though 60 -> 96/100 is noticeable and buttery smooth.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> How much is customs on these?


If you're in the US then 0


----------



## Ovrclck

Green-Sum is crediting me $15 if I revise the negative feedback that I left.


----------



## LotionExplosion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> The response is actually 5-6ms as opposed to 8 which is incorrectly displayed on many Ebay pages. As for 120 vs 96 I don't notice to much, though 60 -> 96/100 is noticeable and buttery smooth.
> If you're in the US then 0


I was thinking of going to 96hz. Do you get image retention?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> I was thinking of going to 96hz. Do you get image retention?


None, and I have 3 sitting @ 96 atm, had the original on 120 for 2 weeks but it's down to 96 to test for differences in refresh


----------



## Jetlitheone

Okay I think im going to order the X-star, im assuming dream-seller is the best seller?

And it comes with a converter or no?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> FYI:
> 
> green-sum = overclockmonitor = green-sum.com
> 
> I spoke to the same "rep" on all three when I was trying to buy a second REAL glossy QNIX. Each eventually admitted they had been selling the Tempered Glass version as the "New" Glossy QNIX.
> 
> Also notice all the graphics on overclockmonitor match their ebay store, even says "Platinum Seller" on the site, which is an ebay seller rating and makes no sense for a retailer outside of ebay.
> 
> I would say buy from ebay if you want buyer protection from green-sum, buying from that site means you are stuck with their own made up rules.


Also, no one has just plain gloss anymore.

from overclockmonitor.com aka green-sum
Save your money and just buy from ebay. Buyer protection as stated above









"
Hello! It's good to see you! Thank you for contacting us.

Regarding plain glossy version of QNIX QX2710 LED, you might mean the past version. Currently released glossy version is somewhat similar to tempered glass version. As far as we know, when they released QNIX QX2710 very first time, 'glossy version' meant plain glossy and tempered glass. However, by sellers, plain glossy and tempered glass version were separated(When we even did not exist.). We found out this information since so many customers had asked about it. (We learned it as well.







)

And now, plain glossy are not likely released. We also have some glossy, but it is not sell-able quality.

Please feel free to contact us anytime you have questions!
"


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yume*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Who's been buying from dream seller lately? Does he use ups or dhl to the USA? Don't think I am going with greensum again once he gives me my refund. Dream seller looks like the one unless anyone has any reason not to.
> 
> 
> 
> Dream-seller used Fedex, at least with me and The Storm.
Click to expand...

Cool thanks, I think I will use him this time.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Also, no one has just plain gloss anymore.
> 
> from overclockmonitor.com aka green-sum
> Save your money and just buy from ebay. Buyer protection as stated above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
> Hello! It's good to see you! Thank you for contacting us.
> 
> Regarding plain glossy version of QNIX QX2710 LED, you might mean the past version. Currently released glossy version is somewhat similar to tempered glass version. As far as we know, when they released QNIX QX2710 very first time, 'glossy version' meant plain glossy and tempered glass. However, by sellers, plain glossy and tempered glass version were separated(When we even did not exist.). We found out this information since so many customers had asked about it. (We learned it as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> And now, plain glossy are not likely released. We also have some glossy, but it is not sell-able quality.
> 
> Please feel free to contact us anytime you have questions!
> "


Summarized version: "We don't understand what we're selling but we can sell you what we think we have labeled







"


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Summarized version: "We don't understand what we're selling but we can sell you what we think we have labeled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "












Yes sir


----------



## PvT Parts

So I just go my Qnix yesterday and I love it. The BLB is minimal and have only 1 dead pixel in the top right corner. This thing is amazing currently just using it stock out of the box. Even with 1 dead pixel this was worth every single penny.

I do have a question though I hope someone can help me out. So I over clocked my monitor to 96ghz fine worked fine no problems detected as 96ghz in games and all, but the colors are really are really washed out and super dark. I downloaded some ICC profiles and tried them but nothing changes colors still look out of wack. After downloading and trying out multiple profiles nothing changes. Is there anything else you have to do after going into color management and setting a profile to default for it to change? I'm uneducated with using ICC profiles.


----------



## doctakedooty

So I was wondering if anyone has dealt with bizarro frim amazon for the qnix monitor I purchased it on the 6th and it still says carrier has been notified packing in transit to carrier been like that since the 7th


----------



## rwong48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> I know this is a heavily debatable subject, but is 120hz even really worth it? I was considering bumping up the refresh rate on my monitor, but can you actually notice it that well in games? I'm pretty big on DotA 2, if that helps any.


You'll never look at a computer the same way again.

It's a pretty big difference for just surfing the web.. there's definitely a difference for games like SC2 and Dota 2, even though the most practical use is for FPS.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So I was wondering if anyone has dealt with bizarro frim amazon for the qnix monitor I purchased it on the 6th and it still says carrier has been notified packing in transit to carrier been like that since the 7th


That's who I ordered from took about 4 days to get to my house in alabama.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> That's who I ordered from took about 4 days to get to my house in alabama.


Did yours stay stuck like that with " Package has left seller facility and is in transit to carrier - December 7, 2013 2:23:52 AM "


----------



## Jetlitheone

If I get my monitor to 96hz will it be true 96hz ? if that makes sense...

I know its not going to be anything like lightboost but will it be similar to a TN panel in terms of smoothness ?

Ive seen 120hz on TV's and thats just upscaled and it looks great. Easier on my eyes


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Yes it's actually 96hz


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> If I get my monitor to 96hz will it be true 96hz ? if that makes sense...
> 
> I know its not going to be anything like lightboost but will it be similar to a TN panel in terms of smoothness ?
> 
> Ive seen 120hz on TV's and thats just upscaled and it looks great. Easier on my eyes


Hasn't Nvidia disabled lightboost on the newer drivers. I know there big thing now is GSync


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Did yours stay stuck like that with " Package has left seller facility and is in transit to carrier - December 7, 2013 2:23:52 AM "


I honestly don't remember, it was over thanksgiving holiday, i was out of town anyway, so I wasn't checking.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I honestly don't remember, it was over thanksgiving holiday, i was out of town anyway, so I wasn't checking.


Well I guess all I can do is wait can't wait to see this thing before I plunge into 2 more for NVidia surround vision.


----------



## Warsteiner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Did yours stay stuck like that with " Package has left seller facility and is in transit to carrier - December 7, 2013 2:23:52 AM "


I would not worry too much. It has been my experience that FedEx and UPS both are horrible at updating tracking information. Most of my stuff usually will stick at one status until delivered then magically it all shows up with the proper dates and time on where it was. UPS is especially bad and sometime even after its delivered they won't update for a day or two.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warsteiner*
> 
> I would not worry too much. It has been my experience that FedEx and UPS both are horrible at updating tracking information. Most of my stuff usually will stick at one status until delivered then magically it all shows up with the proper dates and time on where it was. UPS is especially bad and sometime even after its delivered they won't update for a day or two.


Alright I appreciate it I will just wait when it gets here it gets here


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Well I guess all I can do is wait can't wait to see this thing before I plunge into 2 more for NVidia surround vision.


Found the history>

December 2, 2013, 7:28 pm, Madison AL US Delivered
December 2, 2013, 5:50 am, Huntsville AL US Out for delivery
November 29, 2013, 11:45 am, Huntsville AL US First delivery attempt. A second attempt will be made on the next business day
November 29, 2013, 9:27 am, Huntsville AL US Out for delivery
November 29, 2013, 7:58 am, Huntsville AL US Package arrived at a carrier facility
November 29, 2013, 6:48 am, Birmingham AL US Package has left the carrier facility
November 29, 2013, 4:56 am, Louisville KY US Package has left the carrier facility
November 29, 2013, 4:55 am, Birmingham AL US Package arrived at a carrier facility
November 29, 2013, 2:31 am, Louisville KY US Package arrived at a carrier facility
November 29, 2013, 2:13 am, Louisville KY US Package arrived at destination country
November 29, 2013, 12:45 am, INCHEON KR Package has left the carrier facility
November 29, 2013, 12:30 am, Louisville KY US Package arrived at a carrier facility
November 28, 2013, 11:16 pm, Louisville KY US Completed customs clearance process
November 28, 2013, 10:50 pm, INCHEON KR Package has left the carrier facility
November 28, 2013, 7:45 pm, INCHEON KR Package has left the carrier facility
November 28, 2013, 6:45 pm, INCHEON KR Package arrived at a carrier facility
November 28, 2013, 6:40 pm, SEOUL KR Package has left the carrier facility
November 28, 2013, 6:00 pm, INCHEON KR Package arrived at a carrier facility
November 28, 2013, 5:55 pm, SEOUL KR Package has left the carrier facility
November 28, 2013, 2:47 pm, Anchorage AK US Package has left the carrier facility
November 28, 2013, 12:12 pm, Anchorage AK US Package arrived at a carrier facility
November 28, 2013, 10:45 am, Louisville KY US Initiated customs clearance process
November 28, 2013, 11:29 am, SEOUL KR Package received by carrier
November 27, 2013, 8:54 pm, KR Package has left seller facility and is in transit to carrier


----------



## doctakedooty

Sweet thank you how did your monitor arrive such as blacklight bleed and dead pixels from Bizarro I searched a good bit before I decided on him about different sellers.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Sweet thank you how did your monitor arrive such as blacklight bleed and dead pixels from Bizarro I searched a good bit before I decided on him about different sellers.


Pixels=1 stuck pixel lower right corner- I only notice it when the monitor is displaying a totally black screen with pc off to be honest.- so I am not complaining, it's only one anyway.
Back light bleed= have some at the top, only noticeable when the pc is off and monitor is on to be honest.
Overclock= went to 120hz on first try with very little gamma shift.
Colors=really nice, nothing weird.

Your experience might be better or worse than mine. I am happy with what i received, but if your one of those people who can't stand one bad pixel, or any black light bleed, you might have to send it back and try again.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PvT Parts*
> 
> So I just go my Qnix yesterday and I love it. The BLB is minimal and have only 1 dead pixel in the top right corner. This thing is amazing currently just using it stock out of the box. Even with 1 dead pixel this was worth every single penny.
> 
> I do have a question though I hope someone can help me out. So I over clocked my monitor to 96ghz fine worked fine no problems detected as 96ghz in games and all, but the colors are really are really washed out and super dark. I downloaded some ICC profiles and tried them but nothing changes colors still look out of wack. After downloading and trying out multiple profiles nothing changes. Is there anything else you have to do after going into color management and setting a profile to default for it to change? I'm uneducated with using ICC profiles.


Go into your control panel settings for your video card , nvidia control panel for Nvidia and CCC for ATI, and increase gamma to about 1.15 or 1.20 and brightness by about 2-4% and you'll be back at the norm. The Gamma is mostly affected. Mine are all @ 96hz currently @ That setting and they look as if they're @ 60hz


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatalProximity*
> 
> Let us know if the better DVI cable helps! might get one for mine when my monitor gets here


Didn't make a difference. 96Hz is still sweet.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Is this one of the overclockable monitors spoken about in this thread?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Is this one of the overclockable monitors spoken about in this thread?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651.


Yup though if you're looking for gloss hold off on that just yet, I'm in the middle of educating this seller on proper terms and how things work w/ monitors and facts vs "thoughts"









There seems to be a confusion by the seller as to what he's selling as he isn't entirely sure how to explain it = he doesn't know. Hopefully if he reads the last 4 emails I gave him step by step tutorials on, he'll repky and the world will be set straight.

Should have an answer within the next hour or so.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yup though if you're looking for gloss hold off on that just yet, I'm in the middle of educating this seller on proper terms and how things work w/ monitors and facts vs "thoughts"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There seems to be a confusion by the seller as to what he's selling as he isn't entirely sure how to explain it = he doesn't know. Hopefully if he reads the last 4 emails I gave him step by step tutorials on, he'll repky and the world will be set straight.
> 
> Should have an answer within the next hour or so.


Wait, wait, wait... You're saying that the seller, "Greensum", doesn't know how to tell if a monitor is glossy or matte? You got a matte one after ordering a glossy one?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Wait, wait, wait... You're saying that the seller, "Greensum", doesn't know how to tell if a monitor is glossy or matte? You got a matte one after ordering a glossy one?


Yup he has no idea what's under the hood, he thinks glossy = gloss + matte + tempered glass

Though his Distributor DOES have Gloss panels w/ Glass on them, the confusion is the fact he's unaware or simply does not know enough to explain it better. A few of us have been having issues w/ this which we're trying to put to rest or just abandon all together and recommend other sellers.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yup he has no idea what's under the hood, he thinks glossy = gloss + matte + tempered glass
> 
> Though his Distributor DOES have Gloss panels w/ Glass on them, the confusion is the fact he's unaware or simply does not know enough to explain it better. A few of us have been having issues w/ this which we're trying to put to rest or just abandon all together and recommend other sellers.


Does dream seller have this issue? Anyone else who doesn't have this issue?


----------



## lightsout

Sweet! Complained to greensum that I just wanted my money now that the monitor is on its way back to korea. He sent the refund before receiving it! Dream seller here I come.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Does dream seller have this issue? Anyone else who doesn't have this issue?


You're looking for Glossy right? BGKris and I have been working in the background to procure reputable sellers for everyone. I have 2 monitors from GreenSum currently, and he should be responding soon about my questions since I ordered a 3rd. I've no issue taking a hit for the team to find out. I'm gonna end up debelzing them anyways so doesn't bother me as much.

I'll keep you updated.


----------



## jincuteguy

I thought there are no more "glossy" ones? Only tempered glass (matte under) and matte ones?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I thought there are no more "glossy" ones? Only tempered glass (matte under) and matte ones?


Someone removed their glass in surprise to find gloss.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

looks like im not going to get the lighting fast shipping that so many of you had... I ordered my x-star from dreamseller last Thursday. and according to the tracking its still in southkorea...


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Yup he has no idea what's under the hood, he thinks glossy = gloss + matte + tempered glass
> 
> Though his Distributor DOES have Gloss panels w/ Glass on them, the confusion is the fact he's unaware or simply does not know enough to explain it better. A few of us have been having issues w/ this which we're trying to put to rest or just abandon all together and recommend other sellers.


You guys are wasting your time trying to explain this to green-sum. I went through this same topic with them a month ago. I ended up talking to the same person on ebay and their two retail sites (this is before I discovered it was all the same seller). They all tried to lure me into buying a Glossy that was really Tempered Glass.

All three times they, only after showing that I owned the real Glossy model, did they admit they new they were selling tempered glass as the "new" glossy.

In other words. green-sum KNOWS they are selling the tempered glass model incorrectly as Glossy. They don't care because unaware customers will buy it on ebay and think nothing of it, assuming they have a glossy monitor. It's completely dishonest, but that's typical for these sellers. They just want to move the product any way possible, look at the Perfect Pixel scam...

I'll just wait until another Glossy monitor is available.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Valueable info. +1.
So what's the story with these reguarding glossy versions? I hear that they once had glossy and now they don't but there will in the future?


----------



## SunisidJim

Hey guys, I ordered one of these last week and got it yesterday. This was well worth the price after following this thread the past couple of months. Amazing picture.

I have a question about the vesa mounting though. I have this one here http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2#description and used the screws that came with it which I believe are m4 10mm screws and they ended up being too long, which I thought were just too snug at first, but nope. I tightened past the other end and two others just became stuck and couldn't unscrew. The vesa holes were spinning with em. 30 minutes later with a pair of needle nose pliers got them out. They fit perfectly on the acer h233h.

Just curious if anyone else had this problem? I'm going to see if I can find 8mm screws this weekend, but it really sucked going through that haha. Just curious if anyone else had problems with the screws that came with that vesa mount?

Another issue I had after this I noticed the front of the bezel where the middle logo is has a pretty decent sized gap, is this normal? I actually took it off (twice) and couldn't fix it. Just warped I guess. Guess that's one of the downsides I'm hoping and not a defect on my end.

Anyway, awesome site/forums and this monitor is damn sexy.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> You guys are wasting your time trying to explain this to green-sum. I went through this same topic with them a month ago. I ended up talking to the same person on ebay and their two retail sites (this is before I discovered it was all the same seller). They all tried to lure me into buying a Glossy that was really Tempered Glass.
> 
> All three times they, only after showing that I owned the real Glossy model, did they admit they new they were selling tempered glass as the "new" glossy.
> 
> In other words. green-sum KNOWS they are selling the tempered glass model incorrectly as Glossy. They don't care because unaware customers will buy it on ebay and think nothing of it, assuming they have a glossy monitor. It's completely dishonest, but that's typical for these sellers. They just want to move the product any way possible, look at the Perfect Pixel scam...
> 
> I'll just wait until another Glossy monitor is available.


We've had one that received a tempered glass from him that had gloss under the glass.


----------



## LunaP

Speak of the devil
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greensum*
> Hello, this is CS manager of green-sum store.
> I looked over your messages, I am writing to explain in detail to prevent confusion.
> First of all, I appreciate your continuous interest and orders in our product.
> 
> I contacted manufacturer to check up if original Glossy panel is available, and opened our stock to check the panel before shipping.
> *Currently manufacturer produces Glossy panel monitor with tempered glass.*
> It seems to take time to restock Glossy panel one you are looking for.
> I know you may be confused the word " Glossy ",however we are also following the description provide from manufacturer.
> 
> If you receive the item, I guess you are not satisfied with the panel again.
> Therefore I suggest that we cancle the last transaction and will inform you if original version glossy panel without glass is available.
> Is that ok with you?
> And we will refund the other 2 transactions after item return. Would you like to accept this?
> 
> Because we would like to give you full satisfaction.
> And we are willing to offer the best price if glossy panel without tempered glass model is ready.
> Hope you understand the situation, we will do as you would like to do. please let us know.
> Looking forward to your reply.


All I asked was for him to confirm that the panel I received as well as the one I ordered is the gloss + tempered glass...lol wth

Either way as long as he doesn't cancel my order out of confusion, then I'll be sending back my 3rd as it will be replacing it, and hopefully all is well then I can order my 3 arm stand debezel and be on my way.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> We've had one that received a tempered glass from him that had gloss under the glass.


I'm aware. It doesn't change the fact people go to their Glossy listings, buy, and then receive a Tempered Glass monitor. My point was green-sum is well aware that it's not the same monitor they sold as Glossy a few months ago, and they don't care.

It's also insane that someone would need to buy multiple Tempered Glass monitors, removing the glass from each monitor and then ship them back until you find one with a legit Glossy panel. Simply not worth the time and money.

Not surprised green-sum does not want to sell you yet another Tempered Glass monitor if you're already sending two back.


----------



## artemisk

Hey guys, I'm having trouble connecting one of these to a laptop. I wouldn't have thought that there'd be a problem, but upon plugging it in, the monitor just flashes green then red, then stays in stand-by with no image.
I had bought this cable since it seemed to match, but I read in this thread that hdmi->dvi-d will not work for some reason. My 2 laptops only have (HP dv6) hdmi and vga, and (Samsung ATIV book 9) micro-hdmi and mini-vga. Does this mean that there's no way to connect either of them, with any adapter(s)? This is only a temporary situation, so I would be happy with even a compromised solution like low frame rate or only 1080p, etc., but it seems like such a shame to not be able to use such a nice monitor, even if it's only for a few months.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *artemisk*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm having trouble connecting one of these to a laptop. I wouldn't have thought that there'd be a problem, but upon plugging it in, the monitor just flashes green then red, then stays in stand-by with no image.
> I had bought this cable since it seemed to match, but I read in this thread that hdmi->dvi-d will not work for some reason. My 2 laptops only have (HP dv6) hdmi and vga, and (Samsung ATIV book 9) micro-hdmi and mini-vga. Does this mean that there's no way to connect either of them, with any adapter(s)? This is only a temporary situation, so I would be happy with even a compromised solution like low frame rate or only 1080p, etc., but it seems like such a shame to not be able to use such a nice monitor, even if it's only for a few months.


No possible way to plug it into a laptop that doesn't have a mini display port or dvi input on it.


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Speak of the devil
> All I asked was for him to confirm that the panel I received as well as the one I ordered is the gloss + tempered glass...lol wth
> 
> Either way as long as he doesn't cancel my order out of confusion, then I'll be sending back my 3rd as it will be replacing it, and hopefully all is well then I can order my 3 arm stand debezel and be on my way.


I asked ipsledmonitors.com this question. I figured, why not ask an American, someone we can understand and is in the business.

Hello, What is the
difference between the QNIX QX2710LED Evolution II (Glossy)
27" 2560X1440 Computer Monitor And the QNIX QX2710LED
Evolution II (Tempered Glass) 27" 2560X1440?

Hi Joshua, The two monitors have identical
panel/specifications aside from one main difference. The
QNIX QX2710LED Evolution II (Tempered Glass) variant adds a
plate of anti-glare tempered glass between the panel and
your view. The QNIX QX2710LED Evolution II (Glossy) has no
tempered glass, nor any matte coating. The Glossy variant is
currently not in production; we are discussing a time-frame
with the manufacturer (QNIX) at the
moment. Thanks,---Bill Heckerson

Bill,

THanks for the quick reply. Does the tempered glass model have
Matte coating?

Josh,
The recent batch has used Matte coated panels. The manufacturer has not been
clear on this specification, hence we are not selling tempered glass QNIX
QX2710s until we can get clarification on their build process.
Thanks,---Bill Heckerson


----------



## Jetlitheone

So my xstar shipped. I ordered it Tuesday morning and it's dusk on Wednesday so not bad!

Fedex says it'll be here Monday which makes me sad lol thought I'd get lucky and get it in 2 days like some of you guys lol


----------



## Joshdm2001

This is what green-sum has been trying to say in his broken English. The monitors are matte+glossy(glass) and they no longer sell the old glossy because the manufacturer had too many problems with it. Legally, he can advertise the monitors as glossy because technically the glass is gossy due to its reflective nature. But, this is what you would expect, the old saying goes, you get what you pay for, especially if your buying A- panels from another country.


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> We've had one that received a tempered glass from him that had gloss under the glass.


I'm not convinced that it actually has gloss under the glass. I don't think the guy got official confirmation it was glossy. Reading through the thread I think he believes it's glossy and was asking the community for help in determining if it was glossy. Maybe the manufacturer is using thinner matte coating? Or a different type of matte coating? Glossy under glass contradicts what all the vendors are saying...


----------



## ya mother

I recently removed the glass from my monitor (pixel problem) and the panel was matte, i sent it back and got a glossy panel and tbh its not as sharp as the tempered glass.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> I'm not convinced that it actually has gloss under the glass. I don't think the guy got official confirmation it was glossy. Reading through the thread I think he believes it's glossy and was asking the community for help in determining if it was glossy. Maybe the manufacturer is using thinner matte coating? Or a different type of matte coating? Glossy under glass contradicts what all the vendors are saying...


Well if you consider a "perfect" reflection from the panel Matte then I don't know what Glossy is for you really.
But yes, I would definitely go as far as to say my panel is Glossy even after removing the Tempered Glass, the reflection is just way too clear and good to be any sort of matte at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I recently removed the glass from my monitor (pixel problem) and the panel was matte, i sent it back and got a glossy panel and tbh its not as sharp as the tempered glass.


Like real matte? No reflection to speak of whatsoever?


----------



## ya mother

yep.....real matte......but with the glass its more glossy than my glossy panel i have now if that makes any sense.....i am thinking of selling my glossy panel and getting a tempered glass again, but it was the chance of getting one with dust in between the glass and panel that put me off.....but saying as how sharper the glass one was i might just take the risk.

Anyone in the UK fancy a pixel perfect glossy QNIX panel for the price i paid.....guaranteed no dead pixels.









Tbh i don't think there would be a difference between gloss and matte once you put glass over it.....its not like it's gonna be more glossy?


----------



## dante`afk

anyone using f.lux with a qnix? i see that the right side of the screen is considerable darker than the left one. the same dark side is flickering also if you look slightly.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> yep.....real matte......but with the glass its more glossy than my glossy panel i have now if that makes any sense.....i am thinking of selling my glossy panel and getting a tempered glass again, but it was the chance of getting one with dust in between the glass and panel that put me off.....but saying as how sharper the glass one was i might just take the risk.
> 
> Anyone in the UK fancy a pixel perfect glossy QNIX panel for the price i paid.....guaranteed no dead pixels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tbh i don't think there would be a difference between gloss and matte once you put glass over it.....its not like it's gonna be more glossy?


I would be interested in purchasing your monitor. One question though: does it overclock to 120hz+?


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I would be interested in purchasing your monitor. One question though: does it overclock to 120hz+?


I overclocked it to 110hz......never tried 120hz........will try it now and take a screenshot.


----------



## Warsteiner

So I had a thought and would like to see if anyone has tried it yet. I may try when my monitor gets here if it is needed. My idea is to deal with backlight bleed. Has anyone tried to find a material such as a rubber seal of some kind to fit in the monitor bezel at all? This would hopefully block out the light bleed and create a better seal for the monitor. I am thinking that a 1/16 or 1/32 round rubber seal that could be fed in without even opening the monitor up. This would have to go on the inner bezel and not the outer plastic one. This idea may be stupid and feel free to tell me so, but it was just a thought. Of course I have not received my monitor yet so cannot be sure if it is even viable.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I overclocked it to 110hz......never tried 120hz........will try it now and take a screenshot.


Ok sweet.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I'm aware. It doesn't change the fact people go to their Glossy listings, buy, and then receive a Tempered Glass monitor. My point was green-sum is well aware that it's not the same monitor they sold as Glossy a few months ago, and they don't care.
> 
> It's also insane that someone would need to buy multiple Tempered Glass monitors, removing the glass from each monitor and then ship them back until you find one with a legit Glossy panel. Simply not worth the time and money.
> 
> .


I don't think he's aware he just has no clue what he has, also who would order a ton of monitors just to remove and send back? lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> This is what green-sum has been trying to say in his broken English. The monitors are matte+glossy(glass) and they no longer sell the old glossy because the manufacturer had too many problems with it. Legally, he can advertise the monitors as glossy because technically the glass is gossy due to its reflective nature. But, this is what you would expect, the old saying goes, you get what you pay for, especially if your buying A- panels from another country.


Yeah but some people HAVE received w/ gloss underneath the issue is its hit or miss so we're still looking, I'm probably just going to order from amazon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> I'm not convinced that it actually has gloss under the glass. I don't think the guy got official confirmation it was glossy. Reading through the thread I think he believes it's glossy and was asking the community for help in determining if it was glossy. Maybe the manufacturer is using thinner matte coating? Or a different type of matte coating? Glossy under glass contradicts what all the vendors are saying...


Well just read below here he reposted the pics, should be proof enough, you're referring to someone asking, in which he verified, then there's stige who also removed his and verified.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I recently removed the glass from my monitor (pixel problem) and the panel was matte, i sent it back and got a glossy panel and tbh its not as sharp as the tempered glass.


You got a bad monitor then, gloss will always be sharper than matte w/o OSD settings to increase it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Well if you consider a "perfect" reflection from the panel Matte then I don't know what Glossy is for you really.
> But yes, I would definitely go as far as to say my panel is Glossy even after removing the Tempered Glass, the reflection is just way too clear and good to be any sort of matte at all.
> Like real matte? No reflection to speak of whatsoever?


Ah see here he is







and yeah don't let anyone tell you different or call you out that's 100% Gloss.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> I was thinking of going to 96hz. Do you get image retention?


I for one, am getting a lot of image retention at 96hz.

I'm using CRU with the automated lcd timings though.


----------



## ya mother

just done the test and yes it saved the 120hz no problem.....i keep it at 96hz as it seems to be what most people have theirs at and tbh i cant tell any difference between 96hz and 120hz..










As you can see in the box it has saved 60hz/96hz/and 120hz.









The only problem is backlight bleed which can be solved with the tape mod.....but tbh i think if they haven't got any dead pixels then they will have bleed as these panels are all rejects of some sort (which is why they are so cheap) and something is the matter with all of them as stated by a few people on this forum.....but with bleed at least its fixable but sadly with my tempered glass the 14 dead pixels werent.
If you want a monitor that has no dead pixels and light bleed etc you will have to pay £900 for something like an apple thunderbolt.









@ Luna p....i think your wrong about the glossy being sharper than matte ...glossy coating is different to matte coating and you lose some sharpness with glossy coated panels..... glossy brings out colour vibrancy and in my opinion looks so much better than matte but this is just my opinion and taste.


----------



## Without Wax

Purchased a 30" monitor from ebay from a korean seller recently and it has been caught in customs. The charge is for £75. Considering the monitor cost £340, it feels quite steep.

My question is, if I decline to pay for this, will the item simply return back to the seller, or am I now obliged to pay either way?

What is the action to take in this case? Any recommendations would be most welcome


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> I for one, am getting a lot of image retention at 96hz.
> 
> I'm using CRU with the automated lcd timings though.


I'm almost curious if CRU settings differ from the driver settings, as I'm not having issues with any of my 3 though I'm using my Graphics control panel vs CRU which I couldn't get to work anyways so removed.

For those of you getting image retention can you post if you're using CRU or your Graphics Driver ? ( i.e. CCC or Nvidia CC) Would love to get some statistics.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> @ Luna p....i think your wrong about the glossy being sharper than matte ...glossy coating is different to matte coating and you lose some sharpness with glossy coated panels..... glossy brings out colour vibrancy and in my opinion looks so much better than matte but this is just my opinion and taste.


Nope, Matte is Gloss w/ the coating over it, remove the coating and poof back to gloss as it originally was lol. You obviously have to make a small sacrifice somewhere for covering up a screen with another film, this is all in for those that are in areas where they NEED the anti glare. Been verified numerous times by many removing. My first one I ordered as gloss was matte I removed the film, it's much sharper and brighter. I posted pics, just as the STige did w/ the glass next to his screen.

Here's mine w/ half the matte on the right and no matte on the left.


AWW YEEE look @ dat sharpness


----------



## m3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> just done the test and yes it saved the 120hz no problem.....i keep it at 96hz as it seems to be what most people have theirs at and tbh i cant tell any difference between 96hz and 120hz..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the box it has saved 60hz/96hz/and 120hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem is backlight bleed which can be solved with the tape mod.....but tbh i think if they haven't got any dead pixels then they will have bleed as these panels are all rejects of some sort (which is why they are so cheap) and something is the matter with all of them as stated by a few people on this forum.....but with bleed at least its fixable but sadly with my tempered glass the 14 dead pixels werent.
> If you want a monitor that has no dead pixels and light bleed etc you will have to pay £900 for something like an apple thunderbolt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ Luna p....i think your wrong about the glossy being sharper than matte ...glossy coating is different to matte coating and you lose some sharpness with glossy coated panels..... glossy brings out colour vibrancy and in my opinion looks so much better than matte but this is just my opinion and taste.


15 dead pixels is a lot.Are you sure this is not enough reason for a return?


----------



## ya mother

You might be correct but i didnt notice such a big difference between the tempered glass panel and glossy panel.....it was very slight.....not like night and day on your photo....then again a camera lens is so much better than the naked eye....take light bleed for instance.....hardly noticeable to the naked eye but take a photo and all is revealed.

So your saying a glossy panel has no coating?....it is just the panel?.....my other samsung sa27950d 120hz 3d monitor has a gloss coating, you can see the ripples when its switched off and i also read it was coated?.....so i presumed these were the same being from Samsung?


----------



## m3us

Glossy panel has no coating


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3us*
> 
> 15 dead pixels is a lot.Are you sure this is not enough reason for a return?


I returned it and got the glossy panel as i heard a lot of the glass panels had dust in them (which can look like dead pixels) i had 14 dead pixels but 7 of them were clumped together in one blob which looked horrendous....... they refunded me after i returned it no problem.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3us*
> 
> Glossy panel has no coating


yeah i think your correct as i cant see any rippling on the Qnix.....i just thought they had done a better job this time.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> looks like im not going to get the lighting fast shipping that so many of you had... I ordered my x-star from dreamseller last Thursday. and according to the tracking its still in southkorea...


Wow that sucks. I ordered one from him last night. Fedex says its scheduled for Monday. But we'll see if that holds up.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> I returned it and got the glossy panel as *i heard a lot of the glass panels had dust in them* (which can look like dead pixels) i had 14 dead pixels but 7 of them were clumped together in one blob which looked horrendous....... they refunded me after i returned it no problem.


This is pretty rare though as they're added on in static free areas. Though in other cases still in areas where dust isn't an issue, a blow is used prior to ensure. Easy fix though is to pop the front end of the monitor off and use a canned blower it'll blow anything out easily. There's just enough room to get it in lol.


----------



## doctakedooty

So update on my qnix from bizaroo from amazon finally arrived at carrier facility. Should arrive tomorrow according to ups. I came up with a idea though we should figure out how to get these cheaper and start selling them.


----------



## Gilly225

This thing is beautiful...1440p at 112hz..I'll never go back lol

Qnix Evolution II
GTX SC 770 ACX Cooling


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Ugggggg....this wait is killing me. Im worried that i got a dud.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I'm almost curious if CRU settings differ from the driver settings, as I'm not having issues with any of my 3 though I'm using my Graphics control panel vs CRU which I couldn't get to work anyways so removed.
> 
> For those of you getting image retention can you post if you're using CRU or your Graphics Driver ? ( i.e. CCC or Nvidia CC) Would love to get some statistics.
> Nope, Matte is Gloss w/ the coating over it, remove the coating and poof back to gloss as it originally was lol. You obviously have to make a small sacrifice somewhere for covering up a screen with another film, this is all in for those that are in areas where they NEED the anti glare. Been verified numerous times by many removing. My first one I ordered as gloss was matte I removed the film, it's much sharper and brighter. I posted pics, just as the STige did w/ the glass next to his screen.
> 
> Here's mine w/ half the matte on the right and no matte on the left.
> 
> 
> AWW YEEE look @ dat sharpness


Honestly I'm becoming bewildered about this glossy stuff. I don't know too much about monitors and stuff. All I'm looking for is the best monitor I can get. Since when do I have to remove glass to see a glossy screen?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

So my schedualed delivery is for mon next week. Have you guys recieved your monitors earlier then the projected date?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> So my schedualed delivery is for mon next week. Have you guys recieved your monitors earlier then the projected date?


Ditto on that one I wanna know as well Monday for me too!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So update on my qnix from bizaroo from amazon finally arrived at carrier facility. Should arrive tomorrow according to ups. I came up with a idea though we should figure out how to get these cheaper and start selling them.


I would love to do something like this in the U.S
I wonder how much the monitors actually cost. I bet they're making a boat load of green off of us


----------



## Gilly225

Anyone know if you can run this with surround with 2 Other 1080p Monitors? Me and another guy are trying to figure it out on another forum. Comes up saying that there is different sync polarities.


----------



## mage182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Ditto on that one I wanna know as well Monday for me too!


Mine was scheduled for 12/11, came 12/09.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Honestly I'm becoming bewildered about this glossy stuff. I don't know too much about monitors and stuff. All I'm looking for is the best monitor I can get. Since when do I have to remove glass to see a glossy screen?


What's the question?

It's just user preference if you want gloss go gloss if you want matte go matte. I was just pointing out the difference to someone else.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I would love to do something like this in the U.S
> I wonder how much the monitors actually cost. I bet they're making a boat load of green off of us


My brother is in Thailand and goes to South Korea often because he is doing a 3 year stay out there for church he is leaving to go back out there after the holidays he is going to see what he can find there in Thailand on them and when he goes to South Korea the prices if I can get some dirt chip give him the cash and have him ship them over we could be in business.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> This is pretty rare though as they're added on in static free areas. Though in other cases still in areas where dust isn't an issue, a blow is used prior to ensure. Easy fix though is to pop the front end of the monitor off and use a canned blower it'll blow anything out easily. There's just enough room to get it in lol.


The glass is sealed with a clear silicone glue, i had to use a thin blade to gut it open to lift the glass up to check it wasnt dust.....sadly it wasnt and it had to be returned.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ya mother*
> 
> The glass is sealed with a clear silicone glue, i had to use a thin blade to gut it open to lift the glass up to check it wasnt dust.....sadly it wasnt and it had to be returned.


One of the pros of buying through ebay


----------



## LotionExplosion

Where did you order from? 15 dead pixels is a lot.. I'm so worried now that my order is coming in.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> What's the question?
> 
> It's just user preference if you want gloss go gloss if you want matte go matte. I was just pointing out the difference to someone else.


I want gloss but I apparently can't get gloss but if I remove the glass I can get gloss. What's going on?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I want gloss but I apparently can't get gloss but if I remove the glass I can get gloss. What's going on?


Who said you can't get gloss? lol

All I said is we're verifying which sellers have actual gloss behind their tempered screens vs the ones that have matte behind them.


----------



## FatalProximity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I want gloss but I apparently can't get gloss but if I remove the glass I can get gloss. What's going on?


The confusion is strong in this one


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatalProximity*
> 
> The confusion is strong in this one


I don't blame him. People are mixing this up.

QNIX/X-star Glossy = A non-coated glossy panel placed in the bezel. (This is the panel's original state when it is made)

QNIX/X-star Matte = Added Matte coating to the panel then placed in the bezel the same way. The matte coating reduces reflections.

QNIX/X-star Tempered Glass = A tempered glass plate is placed in front of the panel. Users have reported that both Matte coated and original glossy (un-coated panels) are being placed behind the tempered glass plate, seems a bit random which you will get.. The only way to find out what type of panel is behind the glass is to remove it, which requires disassembling the bezel.

edit:

The reason for confusion. green-sum decided they would start selling the Tempered Glass model to customers who purchase through their "Glossy" listing. In other words, if you bought the Glossy QNIX from green-sum 3 months ago, you would have received a QNIX Glossy. If you buy it today, you will instead receive a tempered glass QNIX. It's not the same, but they figure most users will see that the Tempered Glass is (shiny) and thus assume they got what they paid for. Unless, you're me and have the actually Glossy QNIX that was in stock 3 months ago.


----------



## romboy

same


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilly225*
> 
> This thing is beautiful...1440p at 112hz..I'll never go back lol
> 
> Qnix Evolution II
> GTX SC 770 ACX Cooling


Do you have bf4? If so what kind of frames are you getting with that card?


----------



## romboy

I am getting a lot of image retention at 96hz. 2


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *romboy*
> 
> I am getting a lot of image retention at 96hz. 2


how long does your monitor stay on with nothing in motion just dormant?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *romboy*
> 
> I am getting a lot of image retention at 96hz. 2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> how long does your monitor stay on with nothing in motion just dormant?


Please include if you're using your video driver to OC or a 3rd party app.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I don't blame him. People are mixing this up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> QNIX/X-star Glossy = A non-coated glossy panel placed in the bezel. (This is the panel's original state when it is made)
> 
> QNIX/X-star Matte = Added Matte coating to the panel then placed in the bezel the same way. The matte coating reduces reflections.
> 
> QNIX/X-star Tempered Glass = A tempered glass plate is placed in front of the panel. Users have reported that both Matte coated and original glossy (un-coated panels) are being placed behind the tempered glass plate, seems a bit random which you will get.. The only way to find out what type of panel is behind the glass is to remove it, which requires disassembling the bezel.
> 
> edit:
> 
> The reason for confusion. green-sum decided they would start selling the Tempered Glass model to customers who purchase through their "Glossy" listing. In other words, if you bought the Glossy QNIX from green-sum 3 months ago, you would have received a QNIX Glossy. If you buy it today, you will instead receive a tempered glass QNIX. It's not the same, but they figure most users will see that the Tempered Glass is (shiny) and thus assume they got what they paid for. Unless, you're me and have the actually Glossy QNIX that was in stock 3 months ago.


Not really a mix up just multiple sellers acting confused @ what they sell w/ the obvious issue of Gloss being reportedly out on every seller. This is from multiple user input sadly.

I'd love to have JUST gloss. Even tempered gloss is fine. As long as it's not matte lol. The point is to warn or check prior to buying to ensure the user is getting what they're looking for as preference is preference and I'd be upset if I didn't get what I ordered as well. Just lookin out for people


----------



## Deadeye

Thinking of getting this one in UK, any recommendation from where to get it and be delivered to UK ?


----------



## PvT Parts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Go into your control panel settings for your video card , nvidia control panel for Nvidia and CCC for ATI, and increase gamma to about 1.15 or 1.20 and brightness by about 2-4% and you'll be back at the norm. The Gamma is mostly affected. Mine are all @ 96hz currently @ That setting and they look as if they're @ 60hz


Thanks LunaP it worked perfect! Also while I was using CRU I was getting image retention, but using my graphics control panel I get none.


----------



## Deadeye

Now just need to decide witch one Qnix or X-Star, i know their the same, apart from Design of frame.... hm decisions decisions, maybe i'm missing anything, googling it know, but maybe some one knows more then me?









Ok just my wrong observation that Xstar same glossy panel







sorry


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PvT Parts*
> 
> Thanks LunaP it worked perfect! Also while I was using CRU I was getting image retention, but using my graphics control panel I get none.


NP and good to know appreciate the update on GPU vs CRU
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadeye*
> 
> Now just need to decide witch one Qnix or X-Star, i know their the same, apart from Design of frame.... hm decisions decisions, maybe i'm missing anything, googling it know, but maybe some one knows more then me?


Qnix/Xstar are the same, the difference isn't even the panel, just the name on it. EXACT same Panel underneath. Go w/ whatever sounds cooler.


----------



## romboy

20 min


----------



## romboy

no


----------



## makotech222

Ughhh Almost perfect...

Ordered my X-star from Dreamseller for 270. Got it today, and theres a thin black line near the bottom of my screen. Pics below. What are my options? This is an obvious defect, can i return to SK? how much is shipping?

Good news is, no dead pixels or backlight bleed. and it overclocks to 120 easily >.>



http://imgur.com/tZ7N5Mn


----------



## Gilly225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Do you have bf4? If so what kind of frames are you getting with that card?


Everything on Maxed Except for Anti-Alias I average I would say around 85-90. When Flying I'm around 110-125, sometimes in certain areas I'll push around 180.

My GPU is overclocked pretty heavily I'm at 60mhz offset and 500mhz mem offset with over-voltage.


----------



## Deadeye

Guys what do you think, should i go with this buyer or another one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PERFECT-PIXEL-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Monitor-/221251896058?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item3383a402fa

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Matte-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321239742388?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4acb6177b4

I know price is different a bit, but maybe i'm missing something


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I don't blame him. People are mixing this up.
> 
> QNIX/X-star Glossy = A non-coated glossy panel placed in the bezel. (This is the panel's original state when it is made)
> 
> QNIX/X-star Matte = Added Matte coating to the panel then placed in the bezel the same way. The matte coating reduces reflections.
> 
> QNIX/X-star Tempered Glass = A tempered glass plate is placed in front of the panel. Users have reported that both Matte coated and original glossy (un-coated panels) are being placed behind the tempered glass plate, seems a bit random which you will get.. The only way to find out what type of panel is behind the glass is to remove it, which requires disassembling the bezel.
> 
> edit:
> 
> The reason for confusion. green-sum decided they would start selling the Tempered Glass model to customers who purchase through their "Glossy" listing. In other words, if you bought the Glossy QNIX from green-sum 3 months ago, you would have received a QNIX Glossy. If you buy it today, you will instead receive a tempered glass QNIX. It's not the same, but they figure most users will see that the Tempered Glass is (shiny) and thus assume they got what they paid for. Unless, you're me and have the actually Glossy QNIX that was in stock 3 months ago.


So whats bad about another layer of glass? I how hard is it to remove the tempered glass to get the matte or glossy undercoat?


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> So whats bad about another layer of glass? I how hard is it to remove the tempered glass to get the matte or glossy undercoat?


It's not necessarily bad, but I don't see any advantage to having it in front of your monitor. The tempered glass seems to be mounted cheaply as users in the past complain about it sliding down. Also, it appears to break easily during transit.

If it is a glossy panel behind the tempered glass, it begins to make sense because the tempered glass may protect an uncoated glossy screen.

If it is a Matte panel behind the tempered glass, then it seems to be redundant, if not a disadvantage. Mainly because the matte screen is already protected and reduces reflections. I would suspect the tempered glass would only add a reflective surface in front of your matte panel and do nothing to improve image clarity.

* Is it hard to remove? I don't think it is, but you have to disassemble the bezel, which is the last thing I want to do on a $300 monitor I purchased.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> So whats bad about another layer of glass? I how hard is it to remove the tempered glass to get the matte or glossy undercoat?


Not much, and you adjust to it fairly quickly, if you're not debezling then don't worry about it. Our job is just to make sure if you're really into either or that we give you the right information, so you don't end up angered or confused


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Not much, and you adjust to it fairly quickly, if you're not debezling then don't worry about it. Our job is just to make sure if you're really into either or that we give you the right information, so you don't end up angered or confused


So one last question: Can one visually tell the difference between a tempered glass Qnix/Xstar with glossy or matte finish underneath?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> So one last question: Can one visually tell the difference between a tempered glass Qnix/Xstar with glossy or matte finish underneath?


It's difficult to so quick answer is no. For those that are used to both, it just gives you a sense of curiosity.

You'll be fine w/ it though as you don't mind mine the way it is just I'm removing the bezel so I want to ensure its gloss underneath as I'll need to remove the glass in order to debezel fully.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> It's difficult to so quick answer is no. For those that are used to both, it just gives you a sense of curiosity.
> 
> You'll be fine w/ it though as you don't mind mine the way it is just I'm removing the bezel so I want to ensure its gloss underneath as I'll need to remove the glass in order to debezel fully.


I do care about glossy finish because I want the best image clarity. Anyways if one can't tell why does it matter? Which has higher image clarity: tempered glass with either matter or gloss finish underneath or just matte?

Sorry I asked another question! I gave you rep!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I do care about glossy finish because I want the best image clarity. Anyways if one can't tell why does it matter? Which has higher image clarity: tempered glass with either matter or gloss finish underneath or just matte?
> 
> Sorry I asked another question! I gave you rep!


Lol no worries we're here to help, you'd have better clarity w/ tempered + gloss, as I believe tempered + matte would have at least another .2 offset due to the film. BGKris and I should have some updated info shortly, so far we've only found 1 amazon seller w/ gloss still in stock, we're looking for Ebay sellers.


----------



## makotech222

Question. I have my monitor running at 96hz and i've tested it as such. However, when i turn Vsync on, i get limited to 60fps. Any idea why?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Vsinc limits frames to 60 wich is the standard for 60hz panels. Is your screen still have that black line?


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Just how bad is the motion blur in FPS games?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Delivery date changed from Monday to Tuesday. -.-


----------



## snsgn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> Just how bad is the motion blur in FPS games?


I'm playing Counter Strike: Global Offensive and I must say it's not THAT bad. I'm playing at 100Hz and way over 100fps.
A 24" 1080p 120/144Hz gaming monitor would do better, because I can see the difference as my roommate has one.
Still, it doesn't really annoy me so much.


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makotech222*
> 
> Question. I have my monitor running at 96hz and i've tested it as such. However, when i turn Vsync on, i get limited to 60fps. Any idea why?


The game you are playing is not recognizing the 96hz OC in full screen (your V-syn should cap your FPS @ 96 in windowed mode) and updated monitor driver is needed. Check *this* thread for a link for the ini file and for a guide how to install it.


----------



## Warsteiner

My monitor hit the states! It is sitting in Anchorage now. Hopefully it will not take until Monday to reach Ohio.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snsgn*
> 
> I'm playing Counter Strike: Global Offensive and I must say it's not THAT bad. I'm playing at 100Hz and way over 100fps.
> A 24" 1080p 120/144Hz gaming monitor would do better, because I can see the difference as my roommate has one.
> Still, it doesn't really annoy me so much.


Did you disable motion blur? I heard that's more of an option for lightboost , unchecking it for these improves it quite a bit from what I've seen.


----------



## snsgn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Did you disable motion blur? I heard that's more of an option for lightboost , unchecking it for these improves it quite a bit from what I've seen.


Nope, I haven't. You are talking about that LightBoost software? If it really improves, I'm gonna try that tomorrow. (gonna sleep now, it's 4:00 am here.)


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilly225*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Do you have bf4? If so what kind of frames are you getting with that card?
> 
> 
> 
> Everything on Maxed Except for Anti-Alias I average I would say around 85-90. When Flying I'm around 110-125, sometimes in certain areas I'll push around 180.
> 
> My GPU is overclocked pretty heavily I'm at 60mhz offset and 500mhz mem offset with over-voltage.
Click to expand...

This is at 1440p? Those numbers seem high for a 770. Thought it would be lower thats great.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> This is at 1440p? Those numbers seem high for a 770. Thought it would be lower thats great.


Could be the 4gb edition.


----------



## makotech222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> The game you are playing is not recognizing the 96hz OC in full screen (your V-syn should cap your FPS @ 96 in windowed mode) and updated monitor driver is needed. Check *this* thread for a link for the ini file and for a guide how to install it.


I tried installing it, but it says the inf doesnt have a digital signature. Im on windows 8 and i followed the instructions to disable digital signing









And yes, my monitor still has a hugh black line on it >.>


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makotech222*
> 
> I tried installing it, but it says the inf doesnt have a digital signature. Im on windows 8 and i followed the instructions to disable digital signing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, my monitor still has a hugh black line on it >.>


Unplug the DVI cable from the back of the monitor and see if the TEST mode activates on it.

Test mode is where it flashes between different colors and grayscale. If you still see the lines then its the monitor and you need to file a return, if not then try a different Cable.


----------



## amelauwc

I think I am gonna completely give up on overclocking this qnix. I tried 72hz and cant do that without a line.








It is one single row of vertical pixels which are problematic. At 60hz they are not there, but 72 it is faint, at 96 it is obvious, at 120 it is very obvious. The higher the frequency, the more red they turn.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> This is at 1440p? Those numbers seem high for a 770. Thought it would be lower thats great.
> 
> 
> 
> Could be the 4gb edition.
Click to expand...

I can't see the extra vram doing a ton for frames.


----------



## makotech222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Unplug the DVI cable from the back of the monitor and see if the TEST mode activates on it.
> 
> Test mode is where it flashes between different colors and grayscale. If you still see the lines then its the monitor and you need to file a return, if not then try a different Cable.


Yeah, its definitely there, its the monitor. I already emailed Dreamseller about it, no reply yet. I still would like to get the INF to install. Running in windowed mode works but i would like full screen to work too.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I can't see the extra vram doing a ton for frames.


It adds like one frame.

I don't think he's getting consistently high frames I added 100mhz to my 770 on gpu and don't get that. I mean a lot of maps do but not all


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makotech222*
> 
> I tried installing it, but it says the inf doesnt have a digital signature. Im on windows 8 and i followed the instructions to disable digital signing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, my monitor still has a hugh black line on it >.>


Then you haven't successfully disabled it as it shouldn't be saying such a thing if it's not enabled.


----------



## makotech222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Then you haven't successfully disabled it as it shouldn't be saying such a thing if it's not enabled.


Indeed. I tried permanntly disabling it, and it said it succeeded but i guess not. Did the temp version and it worked after that. Fullscreen vsync now works. Thanks for the help!


----------



## makotech222

Ugh. i got a really crappy monitor from dreamseller. I just noticed that at 96hz, i get a faint green line down the middle of my screen, in addition to the horizontal black one thats permanent. I hope i can get a replacement.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makotech222*
> 
> Ugh. i got a really crappy monitor from dreamseller. I just noticed that at 96hz, i get a faint green line down the middle of my screen, in addition to the horizontal black one thats permanent. I hope i can get a replacement.


After dealing with a shattered screen, and waiting over a week to get it handled, I am really hoping this one goes smooth and there are no issues with it. I also ordered from Dreamseller this time around.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makotech222*
> 
> Ugh. i got a really crappy monitor from dreamseller. I just noticed that at 96hz, i get a faint green line down the middle of my screen, in addition to the horizontal black one thats permanent. I hope i can get a replacement.


The black line there when it's not overclocked? If you're only experiencing it when it's OC'd then that's not a valid reason for a replacement unfortunately.....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> It adds like one frame.
> 
> I don't think he's getting consistently high frames I added 100mhz to my 770 on gpu and don't get that. I mean a lot of maps do but not all


It pans better @ higher resolutions is what I"m getting at, + they're tweaked a bit.

Alright guys finalization from Greensum here ya go.

"Hi,
*I meant that current panel is Matte + Tempered glass*, that is why we are holding your transaction to get your confirmation before shipping.
If we send this tempered glass version without your confirmation, you may not be satisfied.

That is why I said, we will let you know when manufacturer produces only Glossy panel without tempered glass. If you want only Glossy+Glass.
I am trying to offer the item exactly you want. Because you don't like Matte + Glass.

Please understand our effort, if we do not care about your preference of panel, we can just ship one of stock.
However we do care about your satisfaction, hope you understand if there is language barrier because English is not our native language.
And also there is time difference, if you send a message after our business hours, we can see it next morning.
Our CS members are working hard for you, please confirm if Matte+Glass version is OK, or what you would like to do.
Please let us know.

- green-sum"

Edit

He responded to my other email.

"The 2 monitors would be Matte + Glass.
We will pick them up if you do not want to keep them. We will take care of shipping cost.
And we can cancel the last transaction, could you accept it?
Sorry we have specific time when we check all message at once, we will try to answer asap.

- green-sum
Click "respond" to reply through Messages, or go to your email to reply

Respond
"








After clearly pointing out he told me it was GLoss+ Glass in the previous email when I purchased them originally....god just STAY away from this seller, SERIOUSLY bad news.


----------



## Gilly225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> This is at 1440p? Those numbers seem high for a 770. Thought it would be lower thats great.


Yes at 1400p...1080p I was averaging over 110


----------



## LunaP

Just tested TR on Surround 7680x1440 and holy crap I'm in love. Benchmark nabbed 60fps on average for ultimate settings minus tressFX.

Still debating on what I"m gonna do w/ these 2 monitors though...


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Good to know Luna. Thanks for checking.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

I received my QNIX [Tempered Glass] yesterday and just tested it out today. I'm sure it's Tempered because it's Glossy and not Matte and i don't plan to check the details inside and i may break it. No pixel issues that i can personally see on RGB and only got minor BLB on lower left that is unnoticeable... Shipping was fast. I recommend ebay seller (gn_wholesale) even though the seller only had less than 75 feedback at the moment and i do not see a negative feedback regarding these kind of monitor.









EDIT: Supposed to be: "Tempered because it's Glossy"


----------



## dethypoo

Just registered here and would like to say thank you to everyone who provided information, helping me transition through the process of purchasing my QX2710. I received it the other day, no back light bleed, no dead pixels and able to overclock 120 without a single hiccup in HD video/games. I a_m_ having trouble trying to properly calibrate the colour(no tools for it, and presets posted are not working so well), but im sure i will get it eventually. Just waiting for my active Display port to DVI and i will have all 3 of my monitors up and running(then i will post pictures).


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> * Is it hard to remove? I don't think it is, but you have to disassemble the bezel, which is the last thing I want to do on a $300 monitor I purchased.


It's 4 screws and the front bezel comes off, all you need to do to remove the tempered glass from the monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I received my QNIX [Tempered Glass] yesterday and just tested it out today. I'm sure it's Glossy and not Matte and i don't plan to check the details inside and i may break it. No pixel issues that i can personally see on RGB and only got minor BLB on lower left that is unnoticeable... Shipping was fast. I recommend ebay seller (gn_wholesale) even though the seller only had less than 75 feedback at the moment and i do not see a negative feedback regarding these kind of monitor.


No way to know really if it's Gloss or Matte if you got the glass on it, only way to know for sure is to take the glass off and see.


----------



## Joshdm2001

Am I missing something? Green-sum just jacked up the price of his suspect glossy monitor by $180 bucks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> Am I missing something? Green-sum just jacked up the price of his suspect glossy monitor by $180 bucks!
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3


Prices have gone up on overclockmonitor.com aswell: http://www.overclockmonitor.com/daily-deals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-gsy.html/


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshdm2001*
> 
> Am I missing something? Green-sum just jacked up the price of his suspect glossy monitor by $180 bucks!
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3


He doesnt carry glossy


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> No way to know really if it's Gloss or Matte if you got the glass on it, only way to know for sure is to take the glass off and see.


I meant to say: I'm sure it's Tempered because it's glossy...







I'll edit that post...

Green-sum is mad!







lol


----------



## Joshdm2001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> He doesnt carry glossy


That's why I called It "suspect glossy." Anyways I emailed him asking why the dramatic hike increase. Will let everyone know if he responds. It's pretty bizarre. One doesn't just drive their own price up 180$ when the competition is still selling for around 300-330 price range.


----------



## Gilly225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Just tested TR on Surround 7680x1440 and holy crap I'm in love. Benchmark nabbed 60fps on average for ultimate settings minus tressFX.
> 
> Still debating on what I"m gonna do w/ these 2 monitors though...


Is that 3 of these Korean Monitors? I have 2 1080p and 1 qnix 1440p was trying to do surround as an option. Or may just bite it and buy 2 more.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Hey guys, i'm getting a horizontal flash across my screen every now and again when i scroll the mouse up and down, it's happening 3 or 4 times a day, nothing major just wondering if it's to do with timings and if i could fix it?? Or even is it likely to get worse???


Did you ever figure this out? I get this too sometimes, but only when overclocked. Never noticed it in game though.


----------



## Gilly225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I can't see the extra vram doing a ton for frames.


It's the 2GB version. Im Currently playing In a tank on Haitan and im going from 139 to 131 ha...No reason to lie


----------



## Gilly225

He may of jacked prices up for Christmas. I literally just bought one from him a week and a half ago Pixel Perfect for $319. Now I click on the item and it's $499


----------



## Simca

Anyone have a u2410 and can compare this monitor to the u2410. Considering buying one of these...simply for the resolution. Just want to know how it fares in color and wow factor compared to u2410.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Anyone have a u2410 and can compare this monitor to the u2410. Considering buying one of these...simply for the resolution. Just want to know how it fares in color and wow factor compared to u2410.


I'm sure it'll look better. Plus 27" ! Huge difference there alone and the resolution as well


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilly225*
> 
> He may of jacked prices up for Christmas. I literally just bought one from him a week and a half ago Pixel Perfect for $319. Now I click on the item and it's $499


yeah i got mine a few weeks ago plus Extra for pixel perfect.......and also he knows nobody has any Glossy panels in stock.....i waited for a week for him to get a couple of glossy panels in.

Might put my Glossy on ebay.


----------



## makotech222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> The black line there when it's not overclocked? If you're only experiencing it when it's OC'd then that's not a valid reason for a replacement unfortunately.....


Yeah it was there when i first turned on the monitor. The green line is from OCing, i think.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> how long does your monitor stay on with nothing in motion just dormant?


For me it can show retention after only 10 minutes of having a window open. But the retention seems to show up only in that one dark blue background I have...


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilly225*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I can't see the extra vram doing a ton for frames.
> 
> 
> 
> It's the 2GB version. Im Currently playing In a tank on Haitan and im going from 139 to 131 ha...No reason to lie
Click to expand...

Sorry if thats how I came off not what I meant. Was just comparing to my 660 sli, which in benches is a bit better than a 770. I play @ 1200p on High with no MSAA and don't average frames that high. I mostly play TDM which is congested small maps, not sure how that plays into.

I'm in the market for a new gpu so your post had me rethinking as I am all set to get a 780.


----------



## semajha

is it just me or am i noticing more people choosing the qnix over the x-star? To my knowledge, they are both the exact same monitor with a different logo, why are more people getting q-nix?


----------



## lightsout

I think its more of a price/reputable seller thing. Whichever has the best of both people are getting. I went with an xstar because I wanted to go with dreamseller over greensum. And I was happy with the price.


----------



## Marley217

Another thing about the image retention and backlight bleed. Both of these things seem to occur exclusively on the right side of the panel.
Seriously, I just had the facebook page open (screen was set at 96hz) for only 5-10 minutes and I'm still seeing those chat icons on the rights side.

So it might actually be necessary to open up the actual panel, and check for any pressure points or whathaveyous.
It might be worth it, since a lot of you seem to have the same BLB problem.

Edit, the image retention also seems to have disappeared within 5-10 minutes. So it's not the biggest of deals.


----------



## lightsout

Lol is this someone from OCN? Price is cool but shipping it $70









Says glossy, who knows.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Glossy-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-O-C-Monitor-/281225082269?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item417a52359d


----------



## semajha

the thing is, i noticed that usually x-star has the best prices on eBay, also sold by sellers such as dreamseller, greesum, etc.. q-star, a lot times, is 10-30 dollars more. I don't always keep up with this thread but every time I do skim around, I just happened to notice people going with q-stars... Guess i'll be going with x-star, just wanted to make sure there wasn't some important, new information on these monitors that I wasn't aware of.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> the thing is, i noticed that usually x-star has the best prices on eBay, also sold by sellers such as dreamseller, greesum, etc.. q-star, a lot times, is 10-30 dollars more. I don't always keep up with this thread but every time I do skim around, I just happened to notice people going with q-stars... Guess i'll be going with x-star, just wanted to make sure there wasn't some important, new information on these monitors that I wasn't aware of.


I have noticed that as well, it seems like the matte version always had the lowest price. But as far as I know its just a name everything else is the same.


----------



## semajha

Good to know, thanks for replying so quickly!


----------



## Loktar Ogar

I would say go with X-STAR since it has the best price over QNIX... It's basically the same. Just choose a good seller. Also, i would like to comment on the pixel issues. It seems the dead pixel is not that common but the BLB is always there but very minimal and only noticeable in black background with high brightness. This is OK if you are not that picky.









Coming from a 24" TN monitor, I'm still checking for differences (small & big)... So far, I've noticed more vibrant colors in general than TN and I'm not sure if there are other big differences still. I'm just a regular PC gamer so i guess that is not a real thing for me or is there something else i should know about? The size from 24" to 27" is not that a big deal as well... Maybe it's just me.


----------



## semajha

I don't think I'll mind some backlight bleeding, I have it pretty bad on my current monitor but this is only noticeable on very dark or black backgrounds. Seems to be the same case with these type of monitors. I just need to quit being a pansy and purchase one of these already.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

I would say yes and it seems the sellers are getting wiser and bringing the prices up. For a $300 monitor with a PLS 27" panel you won't get wrong.. But looking at your rig specs, i guess it wont be that much different coming from 23" Apple Cinema Display... and consider upgrading your GPU if you are looking for smoother game play. Reading other users comments, you must have at least a GTX 780 or R9 290 to have an average FPS of 50...


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I would say go with X-STAR since it has the best price over QNIX... It's basically the same. Just choose a good seller. Also, i would like to comment on the pixel issues. It seems the dead pixel is not that common but the BLB is always there but very minimal and only noticeable in black background with high brightness. This is OK if you are not that picky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coming from a 24" TN monitor, I'm still checking for differences (small & big)... So far, I've noticed more vibrant colors in general than TN and I'm not sure if there are other big differences still. I'm just a regular PC gamer so i guess that is not a real thing for me or is there something else i should know about? The size from 24" to 27" is not that a big deal as well... Maybe it's just me.


Was your previous monitor 1080p? For me the resolution change alone was huge, so much more desktop space. This was back when I had my Shimian.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I would say yes and it seems the sellers are getting wiser and bringing the prices up. For a $300 monitor with a PLS 27" panel you won't get wrong.. But looking at your rig specs, i guess it wont be that much different coming from 23" Apple Cinema Display... and consider upgrading your GPU if you are looking for smoother game play. Reading other users comments, you must have at least a GTX 780 or R9 290 to have an average FPS of 50...


I run one gtx 770 and I get a consistent 55fps minimum in all my games with everything on Ultra (battlefield 4) it drops sometimes and I get around 75fps average.

BUT the biggest gain with these is 1440p and the ~100hz you can overclock them to.

I have a u2711 I plan on sending back to dell and I for one cant wait for high hz, low input lag, and not insanely bad matte finish (u2711 is horrible lol)


----------



## semajha

looks like someone in the U.S. is selling a "perfect glossy" qnix for $280.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Glossy-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-O-C-Monitor-/281225082269?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item417a52359d

would jump on it but i've decided to stick with matte.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I would say yes and it seems the sellers are getting wiser and bringing the prices up. For a $300 monitor with a PLS 27" panel you won't get wrong.. But looking at your rig specs, i guess it wont be that much different coming from 23" Apple Cinema Display... and consider upgrading your GPU if you are looking for smoother game play. Reading other users comments, you must have at least a GTX 780 or R9 290 to have an average FPS of 50...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I run one gtx 770 and I get a consistent 55fps minimum in all my games with everything on Ultra (battlefield 4) it drops sometimes and I get around 75fps average.
> 
> BUT the biggest gain with these is 1440p and the ~100hz you can overclock them to.
> 
> I have a u2711 I plan on sending back to dell and I for one cant wait for high hz, low input lag, and not insanely bad matte finish (u2711 is horrible lol)
Click to expand...

Is that with MSAA on or off? In bf4?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Was your previous monitor 1080p? For me the resolution change alone was huge, so much more desktop space. This was back when I had my Shimian.


Yes it was 1080p... I also noticed that in Windows Desktop. Thanks for adding that up.







At the moment, I can say that the colors are enjoyable... I'm now browsing for colorful and not so bright HD 1440p Wallpapers.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> I run one gtx 770 and I get a consistent 55fps minimum in all my games with everything on Ultra (battlefield 4) it drops sometimes and I get around 75fps average.
> 
> BUT the biggest gain with these is 1440p and the ~100hz you can overclock them to.


Thanks for your user comment about GTX 770.







And oh! i completely forgot the OC capability of this monitor so this is a plus!









So (semajha) you can consider that as well...


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is that with MSAA on or off? In bf4?


MSAA off since I cant really see much difference at this resolution


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> looks like someone in the U.S. is selling a "perfect glossy" qnix for $280.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Glossy-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-O-C-Monitor-/281225082269?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item417a52359d
> 
> would jump on it but i've decided to stick with matte.


54$ shipping lol


----------



## Ovrclck

That's crazy! Lol

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## semajha

Loktar, how's the text readability? Are you on matte or glossy?


----------



## semajha

Yeah, screw that then. I just noticed that too, sorry guys thought I'd try and help with a good deal.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> Yeah, screw that then. I just noticed that too, sorry guys thought I'd try and help with a good deal.


No worries, to someone, that may be worth it though. Just not me lol

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> Loktar, how's the text readability? Are you on matte or glossy?


It's a QNIX [Tempered] so it's Glossy on outside and most likely Matte inside. lol I really can't tell if it's bad or not but it's alright i guess...


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> For me it can show retention after only 10 minutes of having a window open. But the retention seems to show up only in that one dark blue background I have...


CRU or Driver?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Another thing about the image retention and backlight bleed. Both of these things seem to occur exclusively on the right side of the panel.
> Seriously, I just had the facebook page open (screen was set at 96hz) for only 5-10 minutes and I'm still seeing those chat icons on the rights side.
> 
> So it might actually be necessary to open up the actual panel, and check for any pressure points or whathaveyous.
> It might be worth it, since a lot of you seem to have the same BLB problem.
> 
> Edit, the image retention also seems to have disappeared within 5-10 minutes. So it's not the biggest of deals.


are you using CRU or your driver, so far we've had reports it doesn't show when using the driver vs the utility.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> is it just me or am i noticing more people choosing the qnix over the x-star? To my knowledge, they are both the exact same monitor with a different logo, why are more people getting q-nix?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> the thing is, i noticed that usually x-star has the best prices on eBay, also sold by sellers such as dreamseller, greesum, etc.. q-star, a lot times, is 10-30 dollars more. I don't always keep up with this thread but every time I do skim around, I just happened to notice people going with q-stars... Guess i'll be going with x-star, just wanted to make sure there wasn't some important, new information on these monitors that I wasn't aware of.


Xstar's been around a bit and thinning out in some hence more QNIX orders as Xstar no longer has gloss in stock. Most people just jump @ w/e is being told to grab and the latest is QNIX so it started a roll lol.


----------



## Ovrclck

Qnix sounds sexier









Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> CRU or Driver?
> are you using CRU or your driver, so far we've had reports it doesn't show when using the driver vs the utility.
> 
> Xstar's been around a bit and thinning out in some hence more QNIX orders as Xstar no longer has gloss in stock. Most people just jump @ w/e is being told to grab and the latest is QNIX so it started a roll lol.


I have answered this before, but I think it got burried









Anyway, I use CRU, with my ATI card. And the timings I use are the automatic LCD standard. I've also tried the LCD reduced, but had similar results.
Actually, tomorrow I will recieve the GTX 780, so I'll be able to 'overclock' using the nvidia driver (if that's what you mean with driver). Will post back tomorrow-ish if I still get image retention.

Another thing, I actually prefer the image on 96hz. This is obviously because I calibrated the monitor on 96hz, but switching between color profiles and refresh rates when switching between gaming-non gaming is a drag! I hope the nvidia drivers will come through for me!


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Qnix sounds sexier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


I'm also pleasantly surprised by the bezel quality of Qnix. It actually looks quite robust and fancy.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Qnix sounds sexier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


X-star here sounds sexy lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> I have answered this before, but I think it got burried
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I use CRU, with my ATI card. And the timings I use are the automatic LCD standard. I've also tried the LCD reduced, but had similar results.
> Actually, tomorrow I will recieve the GTX 780, so I'll be able to 'overclock' using the nvidia driver (if that's what you mean with driver). Will post back tomorrow-ish if I still get image retention.
> 
> Another thing, I actually prefer the image on 96hz. This is obviously because I calibrated the monitor on 96hz, but switching between color profiles and refresh rates when switching between gaming-non gaming is a drag! I hope the nvidia drivers will come through for me!


Yeah people w/ CRU have been reporting it mostly.

As for the 96hz, the only change you need to do after increasing it is up the gamma by .8 per ever 15hz you increase for every 30hz increase its gamma by .16 and brightness by 2%


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> As for the 96hz, the only change you need to do after increasing it is up the gamma by .8 per ever 15hz you increase for every 30hz increase its gamma by .16 and brightness by 2%


It's going to be different for every monitor. Best way to set it accurately is to use the image below and adjust like you said until both the circle and background blend together when you squint at it.

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/sharpness.php


----------



## Gilly225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Sorry if thats how I came off not what I meant. Was just comparing to my 660 sli, which in benches is a bit better than a 770. I play @ 1200p on High with no MSAA and don't average frames that high. I mostly play TDM which is congested small maps, not sure how that plays into.
> 
> I'm in the market for a new gpu so your post had me rethinking as I am all set to get a 780.


Oh yeah, I've been trying to get pretty decent at the jet...Add me if you want to play sometime though..anyone else also - Gilly225


----------



## Stige

Has anyone tried doing custom resolution for say 1280x960?
Can you run even higher refresh rate for lower resolutions? Like 144Hz at that resolution or something?

EDIT: Just got 120Hz running perfect, Lagom Contrast and Gamma tests are nearly spot on aswell.
Thank you for that "Front Porch" reference


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilly225*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Sorry if thats how I came off not what I meant. Was just comparing to my 660 sli, which in benches is a bit better than a 770. I play @ 1200p on High with no MSAA and don't average frames that high. I mostly play TDM which is congested small maps, not sure how that plays into.
> 
> I'm in the market for a new gpu so your post had me rethinking as I am all set to get a 780.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, I've been trying to get pretty decent at the jet...Add me if you want to play sometime though..anyone else also - Gilly225
Click to expand...

Sent you a request. Nice stats bro, I suck lol. Don't play much conquest myself. Prefer small maps.


----------



## semajha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> CRU or Driver?
> are you using CRU or your driver, so far we've had reports it doesn't show when using the driver vs the utility.
> 
> Xstar's been around a bit and thinning out in some hence more QNIX orders as Xstar no longer has gloss in stock. Most people just jump @ w/e is being told to grab and the latest is QNIX so it started a roll lol.


haha, makes sense... Well, cheapest x-star right now is a tempered glass model for $280. I don't really want or need a tempered glass but it's cheaper than the regular matte version. Final question though.... So is it true that every tempered glass model has a matte panel underneath it? If so... then great! How many people have actually gotten glossy underneath there monitor?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gilly225*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Sorry if thats how I came off not what I meant. Was just comparing to my 660 sli, which in benches is a bit better than a 770. I play @ 1200p on High with no MSAA and don't average frames that high. I mostly play TDM which is congested small maps, not sure how that plays into.
> 
> I'm in the market for a new gpu so your post had me rethinking as I am all set to get a 780.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, I've been trying to get pretty decent at the jet...Add me if you want to play sometime though..anyone else also - Gilly225
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sent you a request. Nice stats bro, I suck lol. Don't play much conquest myself. Prefer small maps.
Click to expand...

Add me if you can "Heisenburg82"
Mobile battlelog doesn't have ad player feature. I just started playing..









Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> haha, makes sense... Well, cheapest x-star right now is a tempered glass model for $280. I don't really want or need a tempered glass but it's cheaper than the regular matte version. Final question though.... So is it true that every tempered glass model has a matte panel underneath it? If so... then great! How many people have actually gotten glossy underneath there monitor?


Both the tempered's I got are matte underneath, confirmed by the seller than promised they were gloss AFTER I received them lol. Anyways they found 2 Normal Gloss panels in their warehouse and are going to ship them to me, if I like I'll return the 2 I have if not I'll keep 1 temperd and return the off color one.

Most are matte underneath, though some DO have gloss, as Stige pointed out.


----------



## semajha

Wow, is all this with greensum? I remember you had some trouble with that guy. Sucks you have to go through all that BS.

Thank you for always responding back with helpful info. Left you a rep for a question you responded to nearly 3 weeks ago, lol.


----------



## Gilly225

So I was at 1440p at 112 hz In Battlefield. Not sure what happened but all I can get is 60hz to show up now. In NVIDIA Control Panel it shows it at 112Hz same with CRU. I uninstalled Geforce Experience...still nothing.


----------



## semajha

Just ordered a Matte X-STAR from dream-seller for $299!


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Good luck! I'm sure it will do well... I feel exited for you.


----------



## Gilly225

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilly225*
> 
> So I was at 1440p at 112 hz In Battlefield. Not sure what happened but all I can get is 60hz to show up now. In NVIDIA Control Panel it shows it at 112Hz same with CRU. I uninstalled Geforce Experience...still nothing.


Started from scratch again and now it works...Dunno what was going on there. I'm scared to reboot now


----------



## gandscha

Hi there.

just registered to give you my feedback.
Thank you all for the tons of information i got here.

The Shipping:
On dec the 5th afternoon i ordered a QNIX QX2710 [Matte] [NOT perfect pixel, because you guys convinced me its just a scam] from ebay-seller accessorieswhole an d it arrived on dec 10th in the morning.
Thats really fast for shipping from korea to germany. thumbs up.

The Good:
I had no defect pixels, yay
the picture is just amazing, never had better
I could overclock to 120 hz no problem. But the colors get a little worse which shouldnt bother any gamer.

The Bad:
The stand is crap, everyone knows that. I dont mind it.
the blue LED is to bright for my taste, but thats fixable.
Unfortunately i had backlight bleeding, fortunately it was fixable.

The Fix:
As mentioned i had an noticable amount of backlight bleeding that was to much for me.
I did the electric tape mod like descibed before in the forums here. there is good guide on youtube. its totally doable and not hard at all.
I think what really helped was bending the metal frame until it was straight an flat on my table. just be gentle to that frame it bends easily. also be gentle to all the clips.

After i reassembled the monitor the backlight bleed was gone. I mean really faint so you could only see it if you turned the brightnes all up and want to see it.
overall im really happy with the result. didn't expect the outcome to be that good.

i also dimmed the power LED. i could have soldered in a resistor, but i was lazy a just took a black marker









Overall i dont regret buying the monitor an i would do it again.
Just be ready to to get a monitor with flaws. Keep in mind the panel you get was was in a batch that didn't pass Quality Check. which still means it CAN be flawless

cheers


----------



## Jetlitheone

My monitor is still in Korea (moved to another part of it) I ordered 12/10 so thats aggravating lol I thought I might get lucky and get it tomorrow.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> 54$ shipping lol


I just bought that.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I just bought that.


Power to you man. I just thought it was too expensive to get shipped.


----------



## LotionExplosion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gandscha*
> 
> Hi there.
> 
> just registered to give you my feedback.
> Thank you all for the tons of information i got here.
> 
> The Shipping:
> On dec the 5th afternoon i ordered a QNIX QX2710 [Matte] [NOT perfect pixel, because you guys convinced me its just a scam] from ebay-seller accessorieswhole an d it arrived on dec 10th in the morning.
> Thats really fast for shipping from korea to germany. thumbs up.
> 
> The Good:
> I had no defect pixels, yay
> the picture is just amazing, never had better
> I could overclock to 120 hz no problem. But the colors get a little worse which shouldnt bother any gamer.
> 
> The Bad:
> The stand is crap, everyone knows that. I dont mind it.
> the blue LED is to bright for my taste, but thats fixable.
> Unfortunately i had backlight bleeding, fortunately it was fixable.
> 
> The Fix:
> As mentioned i had an noticable amount of backlight bleeding that was to much for me.
> I did the electric tape mod like descibed before in the forums here. there is good guide on youtube. its totally doable and not hard at all.
> I think what really helped was bending the metal frame until it was straight an flat on my table. just be gentle to that frame it bends easily. also be gentle to all the clips.
> 
> After i reassembled the monitor the backlight bleed was gone. I mean really faint so you could only see it if you turned the brightnes all up and want to see it.
> overall im really happy with the result. didn't expect the outcome to be that good.
> 
> i also dimmed the power LED. i could have soldered in a resistor, but i was lazy a just took a black marker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall i dont regret buying the monitor an i would do it again.
> Just be ready to to get a monitor with flaws. Keep in mind the panel you get was was in a batch that didn't pass Quality Check. which still means it CAN be flawless
> 
> cheers


Very informative post! I'm crossing my fingers hoping I get no dead pixels when my monitor comes in tomorrow.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Mine just left alaska this morning. Hoping to get it tommarow!


----------



## FatalProximity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gandscha*
> 
> Hi there.
> 
> The Fix:
> As mentioned i had an noticable amount of backlight bleeding that was to much for me.
> I did the electric tape mod like descibed before in the forums here. there is good guide on youtube. its totally doable and not hard at all.
> I think what really helped was bending the metal frame until it was straight an flat on my table. just be gentle to that frame it bends easily. also be gentle to all the clips.
> 
> After i reassembled the monitor the backlight bleed was gone. I mean really faint so you could only see it if you turned the brightnes all up and want to see it.
> overall im really happy with the result. didn't expect the outcome to be that good.
> 
> i also dimmed the power LED. i could have soldered in a resistor, but i was lazy a just took a black marker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall i dont regret buying the monitor an i would do it again.
> Just be ready to to get a monitor with flaws. Keep in mind the panel you get was was in a batch that didn't pass Quality Check. which still means it CAN be flawless
> 
> cheers


Thanks for your post, do you mind providing a link to the youtube video you used for the tape mod?


----------



## ColdFusionWi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatalProximity*
> 
> Thanks for your post, do you mind providing a link to the youtube video you used for the tape mod?


YouTube Tape Mod Play List

You can also go to the first post in this thread, scroll down a little bit, and you'll find the "Tape Mod to fix back light bleed" section that you can click on to give you more information.


----------



## FatalProximity

Thanks!


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Power to you man. I just thought it was too expensive to get shipped.


Yeah.... I paid 360 on a monitor so I thought its the same price for a guaranteed 120hz pixel perfect. And possibly glossy without tempered glass.


----------



## doctakedooty

Just wanted to say I got my Qnix 27in Evoluation II monitor in today from Bizaroo on Amazon I was able to easily overclock it to 120Hz not a single dead pixel and almost no backlight bleed I have one very tiny bleed on the bottom right corner of the screen but you can barely see it when the screen is completely black.


----------



## CptAsian

Hey guys. I stumbled across these monitors a few days ago, and I was just wondering about one of the Qinx monitors in comparison to one or two 23" Dell Ultrasharp 1080p monitors. Getting a 27" seems like a more practical alternative, and it's cheaper than getting two Dells. So getting a 27" and using my current 23" 1080p monitor as a secondary seems like a nice option right now, and I'm sure you all think the same, right?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Just wanted to say I got my Qnix 27in Evoluation II monitor in today from Bizaroo on Amazon I was able to easily overclock it to 120Hz not a single dead pixel and almost no backlight bleed I have one very tiny bleed on the bottom right corner of the screen but you can barely see it when the screen is completely black.


Is it the really nice glossy version without tempered glass?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Is it the really nice glossy version without tempered glass?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Just wanted to say I got my Qnix 27in Evoluation II monitor in today from Bizaroo on Amazon I was able to easily overclock it to 120Hz not a single dead pixel and almost no backlight bleed I have one very tiny bleed on the bottom right corner of the screen but you can barely see it when the screen is completely black.


99.9% sure its gloss w/ Tempered glass over it. As only a select few carry solid gloss. You have to message the seller prior so they know.


----------



## taafe

Anybody from the UK delt with accessories whole from ebay.uk? Or would dream seller ship to uk? And where can I get a glossy monitor from?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Anybody from the UK delt with accessories whole from ebay.uk? Or would dream seller ship to uk? And where can I get a glossy monitor from?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Just wanted to say I got my Qnix 27in Evoluation II monitor in today from Bizaroo on Amazon I was able to easily overclock it to 120Hz not a single dead pixel and almost no backlight bleed I have one very tiny bleed on the bottom right corner of the screen but you can barely see it when the screen is completely black.


If I'm not mistaken accessorieswhole = Greensum he has several Ebay names.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Anybody from the UK delt with accessories whole from ebay.uk? Or would dream seller ship to uk? And where can I get a glossy monitor from?


I got my tempered glass qnix from accessorieswhole. No issues, always replied fast, fast shipping. I believe mine is glossy under the tempered glass as well, but it's a bit of a crap shoot. They stated it was definitely glossy, then i emailed back to confirm once all this stuff started going on in here lol and they said it's a 50/50 chance of being matte or glossy.

EDIT: I'm in Australia, don't think that should make any difference to you tho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If I'm not mistaken accessorieswhole = Greensum he has several Ebay names.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> If I'm not mistaken accessorieswhole = Greensum he has several Ebay names.


Pretty sure you are mistaken there. (the comment so good i had to quote it twice! lol.)


----------



## lightsout

worldsbest365 is greensum. I don't think accessorieswholesale is.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I got my tempered glass qnix from accessorieswhole. No issues, always replied fast, fast shipping. I believe mine is glossy under the tempered glass as well, but it's a bit of a crap shoot. They stated it was definitely glossy, then i emailed back to confirm once all this stuff started going on in here lol and they said it's a 50/50 chance of being matte or glossy.
> 
> EDIT: I'm in Australia, don't think that should make any difference to you tho.
> 
> Pretty sure you are mistaken there. (the comment so good i had to quote it twice! lol.)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> worldsbest365 is greensum. I don't think accessorieswholesale is.


whoops yeah beat me to correcting myself, appreciate it haha. My bad.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

The xstar arrived in mephise tenesse at 3pm. So what are the chances i will get it tommarow u think?


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Is it the really nice glossy version without tempered glass?


Its not glossy its matte It looks amazing been on a 1080p Vizio 32in TV forever so this is like night and day I just got to calibrate it some. My 2 780Ti have no problem pushing this thing I am hoping middle of January do surround vision and 2 more Ti's hopefully I will get lucky and get 2 more like this. I did buy the pixel perfect version.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Its not glossy its matte It looks amazing been on a 1080p Vizio 32in TV forever so this is like night and day I just got to calibrate it some. My 2 780Ti have no problem pushing this thing I am hoping middle of January do surround vision and 2 more Ti's hopefully I will get lucky and get 2 more like this. I did buy the pixel perfect version.


That is actually a pretty funny coincidence because I've been using that same Vizio 32" 1080p TV you've been using for the past 6 years.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> The xstar arrived in mephise tenesse at 3pm. So what are the chances i will get it tommarow u think?


It'll probably be there tomorrow, you're lucky

when did you order?

I think we ordered the same date and my monitor is STILL in korea !


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> It'll probably be there tomorrow, you're lucky
> 
> when did you order?
> 
> I think we ordered the same date and my monitor is STILL in korea !


A week ago today.


----------



## jakeface1

I'm supposed to get my Qnix glossy tomorrow. It's in Alaska now, I'll post back if it arrives with tempered glass or not. I bought it from green-sum.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gandscha*
> 
> Hi there.
> 
> just registered to give you my feedback.
> Thank you all for the tons of information i got here.
> 
> The Shipping:
> On dec the 5th afternoon i ordered a QNIX QX2710 [Matte] [NOT perfect pixel, because you guys convinced me its just a scam] from ebay-seller accessorieswhole an d it arrived on dec 10th in the morning.
> Thats really fast for shipping from korea to germany. thumbs up.
> 
> The Good:
> I had no defect pixels, yay
> the picture is just amazing, never had better
> I could overclock to 120 hz no problem. But the colors get a little worse which shouldnt bother any gamer.
> 
> The Bad:
> The stand is crap, everyone knows that. I dont mind it.
> the blue LED is to bright for my taste, but thats fixable.
> Unfortunately i had backlight bleeding, fortunately it was fixable.
> 
> The Fix:
> As mentioned i had an noticable amount of backlight bleeding that was to much for me.
> I did the electric tape mod like descibed before in the forums here. there is good guide on youtube. its totally doable and not hard at all.
> I think what really helped was bending the metal frame until it was straight an flat on my table. just be gentle to that frame it bends easily. also be gentle to all the clips.
> 
> After i reassembled the monitor the backlight bleed was gone. I mean really faint so you could only see it if you turned the brightnes all up and want to see it.
> overall im really happy with the result. didn't expect the outcome to be that good.
> 
> i also dimmed the power LED. i could have soldered in a resistor, but i was lazy a just took a black marker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall i dont regret buying the monitor an i would do it again.
> Just be ready to to get a monitor with flaws. Keep in mind the panel you get was was in a batch that didn't pass Quality Check. which still means it CAN be flawless
> 
> cheers


Interesting. The tape mod did nothing for my BLB. Although the BLB is not visible at normal lightings, it somewhat visible when watching very dark scenes, in the dark.
So exactly what frame did you bend? The metal backplate of the panel? Or the metal thingies that hook onto the bezel and are screwed into the sides of the panel?


----------



## gandscha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gandscha*
> 
> Hi there.
> 
> just registered to give you my feedback.
> Thank you all for the tons of information i got here.
> 
> The Shipping:
> On dec the 5th afternoon i ordered a QNIX QX2710 [Matte] [NOT perfect pixel, because you guys convinced me its just a scam] from ebay-seller accessorieswhole an d it arrived on dec 10th in the morning.
> Thats really fast for shipping from korea to germany. thumbs up.
> 
> The Good:
> I had no defect pixels, yay
> the picture is just amazing, never had better
> I could overclock to 120 hz no problem. But the colors get a little worse which shouldnt bother any gamer.
> 
> The Bad:
> The stand is crap, everyone knows that. I dont mind it.
> the blue LED is to bright for my taste, but thats fixable.
> Unfortunately i had backlight bleeding, fortunately it was fixable.
> 
> The Fix:
> As mentioned i had an noticable amount of backlight bleeding that was to much for me.
> I did the electric tape mod like descibed before in the forums here. there is good guide on youtube. its totally doable and not hard at all.
> I think what really helped was bending the metal frame until it was straight an flat on my table. just be gentle to that frame it bends easily. also be gentle to all the clips.
> 
> After i reassembled the monitor the backlight bleed was gone. I mean really faint so you could only see it if you turned the brightnes all up and want to see it.
> overall im really happy with the result. didn't expect the outcome to be that good.
> 
> i also dimmed the power LED. i could have soldered in a resistor, but i was lazy a just took a black marker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall i dont regret buying the monitor an i would do it again.
> Just be ready to to get a monitor with flaws. Keep in mind the panel you get was was in a batch that didn't pass Quality Check. which still means it CAN be flawless
> 
> cheers
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. The tape mod did nothing for my BLB. Although the BLB is not visible at normal lightings, it somewhat visible when watching very dark scenes, in the dark.
> So exactly what frame did you bend? The metal backplate of the panel? Or the metal thingies that hook onto the bezel and are screwed into the sides of the panel?
Click to expand...

When i took of that metal frame, that was clipped to the panel and put it on the table i noticed it was not flat at all. It wobbled and the insides, where the tape was applied later on where not flat. It was just not looking right and in my theory it was that uneaveness that caused the bleeding at bottton left+right and top left.
So it took me about half an hour of bending. The frame was flat in the table then. Still not 100% geometrical correct but MUCH better. I might open it up again to see if i can eliminate that very last of bleeding.
But now i only see it on a black screen when focussing at that area.


----------



## Hardrock

So I am considering the Qnix QX2710, hows the motion blur on this monitor in FPS games like BF4 ? I would like the bigger screen size and higher resolution of the Qnix but the native 120hz and 144hz monitors it seem have an edge is FPS gaming. Any thought on this ? I guess the caveat is the motion blur may change when you OC the monitor to 110-120hz.

I am coming from an old Dell 2407wfp 1920x1200 @ 60HZ.

Thanks


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> So I am considering the Qnix QX2710, hows the motion blur on this monitor in FPS games like BF4 ? I would like the bigger screen size and higher resolution of the Qnix but the native 120hz and 144hz monitors it seem have an edge is FPS gaming. Any thought on this ? I guess the caveat is the motion blur may change when you OC the monitor to 110-120hz.
> 
> I am coming from an old Dell 2407wfp 1920x1200 @ 60HZ.
> 
> Thanks


It will be roughly half of what you have now aka better by 50%, and 1/4 worse than a 144hz tn panel I believe.


----------



## Ovrclck

I was finally able to test bf4 with my ti classified. 96Hz looks unreal in game! Very pleased.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I was finally able to test bf4 with my ti classified. 96Hz looks unreal in game! Very pleased.


Can't wait to get my monitor in!


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I was finally able to test bf4 with my ti classified. 96Hz looks unreal in game! Very pleased.


Yea it is I was playing it earlier at 120hz I just got to find a icc profile to fit my monitor I have tried almost all of them on the OP they all look washed out on colors almost some were decent


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> It will be roughly half of what you have now aka better by 50%, and 1/4 worse than a 144hz tn panel I believe.


Thanks, So where are you guys currently ordering your Qnix monitors from. New Egg has a sale on the "Pixel perfect" monitor for $372 although the warranty isn't the best:

Of course I want to make sure I get the version of the QX270 that is supposed to OC.

Return for refund within: 30 days
Return for replacement within: 90 days

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3PC1705719


----------



## the9quad

Tha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Thanks, So where are you guys currently ordering your Qnix monitors from. New Egg has a sale on the "Pixel perfect" monitor for $372 although the warranty isn't the best:
> 
> Return for refund within: 30 days
> Return for replacement within: 90 days
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3PC1705719


That isn't a bad price I got mine from amazon then just paid $50 for a 3 yr warranty from square trade


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Can't wait to get my monitor in!


you'll love it bro!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Yea it is I was playing it earlier at 120hz I just got to find a icc profile to fit my monitor I have tried almost all of them on the OP they all look washed out on colors almost some were decent


It's hard to get used to it, everything looks so nice, kinda dizzy lol

Have you tried the last profile that was posted here a few days ago? Maybe try bumping it down to 96hz?

QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file


----------



## Hardrock

It seems like IPS LED Monitors has a pretty sweet warrenty for $50

Add Our 5 Star 3 Year Replacement Warranty To Any Monitor

Screen Failure
IPSLEDMONITORS.com will cover dead pixels (any amount), uneven backlighting or discoloration, total backlight or screen failure, screen flickering or any intermittent screen display issues.

Electrical or Mechanical Failures

IPSLEDMONITORS.com will cover any mechanical or electrical failure that inhibits use of monitor. This includes On Screen Display (OSD) mechanical and capacitive touch interface, power button, bezel and monitor mount, monitor stand, input video interface (electrical or mechanical), monitor power interface (electrical or mechanical), or any electrical or mechanical failure not listed herein that results in degraded use of monitor.

3 Year Replacement Warranty
IPSLEDMONITORS.com will provide a 3-year replacement warranty to purchasing customers of qualified products. In the event of any above-mentioned screen, electrical, or mechanical failures IPSLEDMONITORS.com shall execute a one-time limited replacement of monitor at no additional cost to customer. Monitor replacement is subject to available stock, and if unavailable, will be substituted with equivalent.

IPSLEDMONITORS.com 3 Year Replacement Warranty purchase must be completed within 30 days of initial product order. Warranty becomes effective immediately following warranty purchase for a period no more than 3 years from the original product order date. Warranties are non-transferrable and non-refundable.

IPSLEDMONITORS.com 3 Year Replacement Warranty explicitly covers failures that result from normal use. Issues not covered include, but are not limited to: damage resulting from misuse or failure to perform proper maintenance, cosmetic damages that do not result in degraded use of monitor, included accessories: power adapter, power cable, or video interface cable, incompatibility with software or interfaced hardware, normal wear to any non-operating parts which does not affect the functionality of the product.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> It seems like IPS LED Monitors has a pretty sweet warrenty for $50
> 
> Add Our 5 Star 3 Year Replacement Warranty To Any Monitor
> 
> Screen Failure
> IPSLEDMONITORS.com will cover dead pixels (any amount), uneven backlighting or discoloration, total backlight or screen failure, screen flickering or any intermittent screen display issues.
> 
> Electrical or Mechanical Failures
> 
> IPSLEDMONITORS.com will cover any mechanical or electrical failure that inhibits use of monitor. This includes On Screen Display (OSD) mechanical and capacitive touch interface, power button, bezel and monitor mount, monitor stand, input video interface (electrical or mechanical), monitor power interface (electrical or mechanical), or any electrical or mechanical failure not listed herein that results in degraded use of monitor.
> 
> 3 Year Replacement Warranty
> IPSLEDMONITORS.com will provide a 3-year replacement warranty to purchasing customers of qualified products. In the event of any above-mentioned screen, electrical, or mechanical failures IPSLEDMONITORS.com shall execute a one-time limited replacement of monitor at no additional cost to customer. Monitor replacement is subject to available stock, and if unavailable, will be substituted with equivalent.
> 
> IPSLEDMONITORS.com 3 Year Replacement Warranty purchase must be completed within 30 days of initial product order. Warranty becomes effective immediately following warranty purchase for a period no more than 3 years from the original product order date. Warranties are non-transferrable and non-refundable.
> 
> IPSLEDMONITORS.com 3 Year Replacement Warranty explicitly covers failures that result from normal use. Issues not covered include, but are not limited to: damage resulting from misuse or failure to perform proper maintenance, cosmetic damages that do not result in degraded use of monitor, included accessories: power adapter, power cable, or video interface cable, incompatibility with software or interfaced hardware, normal wear to any non-operating parts which does not affect the functionality of the product.


But who is the warranty with? Just them? These guys could be gone tomorrow don't you think? Thats what I would be worried about. Will they even be around the whole time. SInce they are pretty small.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakeface1*
> 
> I'm supposed to get my Qnix glossy tomorrow. It's in Alaska now, I'll post back if it arrives with tempered glass or not. I bought it from green-sum.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It should be tempered,

After a long debate back and forth this week, green sum is sending me plain gloss monitors from his distributor as they still had 2 somewhere in there, though he said they're not pixel perfect = not sellable quality but THEN took back his words as all my models are non pixel perfect but are still 100% dead pixel blb free. so he informed me its the same so doesn't matter.

SO just gota return slip for DHL for the one off color monitor, and he's gonna send me 2 gloss, if I like I"ll send back the other tempered glass model as well to him, I'm starting to get headaches in my eyes now due to the sharpness difference ( only like 2-5% ) but my eyes somehow are seeing it between the 2 monitors ( my real gloss and the tempered / matte )

I'll report back afterwards.


----------



## Hardrock

I know what you are saying the warranty is just w/ that company. I guess I was assuming that they would be around for a bit lol


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> I know what you are saying the warranty is just w/ that company. I guess I was assuming that they would be around for a bit lol


I mean don't get me wrong it sounds good. I think they have been around for at least a year? Maybe don't quote me on that. But its not like its newegg or something. Just something to consider.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I mean don't get me wrong it sounds good. I think they have been around for at least a year? Maybe don't quote me on that. But its not like its newegg or something. Just something to consider.


and they get their monitors from green-sum too lol
Just go buy from Ebay. Buyer protection.


----------



## lightsout

What do you mean they get them from greensum? All that just to make 20 bucks? Are you confusing them with overclockmonitors that is acutely greensums site? Or am I crazy?


----------



## junkrok

I bought my glossy qnix from ipsledmonitors, when they had it in stock. The monitor definitely came from their company and had their logo on the invoice, so I don't know what BGKris is talking about. Actually, I was really happy with them, answered my questions in plain english, etc. but I did buy the squaretrade warranty instead of theres.

Buyer protection is only good for 30days, and it does not cover your shipping cost back to Korea which can be super expensive on a large package. I would only do ebay if I was scoring a major deal, but the prices seem higher now.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> I bought my glossy qnix from ipsledmonitors, when they had it in stock. The monitor definitely came from their company and had their logo on the invoice, so I don't know what BGKris is talking about. Actually, I was really happy with them, answered my questions in plain english, etc. but I did buy the squaretrade warranty instead of theres.
> 
> Buyer protection is only good for 30days, and *it does not cover your shipping cost back to Korea* which can be super expensive on a large package. I would only do ebay if I was scoring a major deal, but the prices seem higher now.


Ebay has paid all my return shipping costs.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ebay has paid all my return shipping costs.


That's likely because you claimed significantly not as described (which was because gsum is misrepresenting the product tempered glass vs glossy). Most of the auctions go into detail about dead pixels and BLB being normal, so you could conceivably receive a monitor with bad BLB or an anoying pixel defect in the center of your screen and would be SOL. In those cases, I'd rather ship to Cali than Korea.

edit:

Also from ebays buyer protection page:

"If the cost of return shipping isn't covered by the seller according to their return policy, *we may decide to pay for return shipping costs in some cases*. If we don't pay for the return shipping costs, the buyer is responsible."


----------



## bmgjet

Im really impressed with this screen.
Just got my QX2710LED
$280
Free shipping to NZ
From green-sum.

Overclocks 144hz. 148 it starts missing frames in the LCD test and 150 it comes up unsupported. (tested going up in 10hz steps then started going down by 2hz until it was stable)
Sticking to 120hz tho since BF4 doesnt get enough frames at 2K to justify running the extra hz.

No dead pixels
Slight light bleeding bottom right corner but its hidden by start bar icon.
Picture seems to be off slightly upwards since I can see a black line along the bottom and at the top things get slightly cut off.

Also ordered matt one but got glossy but still better then I expected and very happy,


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junkrok*
> 
> That's likely because you claimed significantly not as described (which was because gsum is misrepresenting the product tempered glass vs glossy). Most of the auctions go into detail about dead pixels and BLB being normal, so you could conceivably receive a monitor with bad BLB or an anoying pixel defect in the center of your screen and would be SOL. In those cases, I'd rather ship to Cali than Korea.
> 
> edit:
> 
> Also from ebays buyer protection page:
> 
> "If the cost of return shipping isn't covered by the seller according to their return policy, *we may decide to pay for return shipping costs in some cases*. If we don't pay for the return shipping costs, the buyer is responsible."


I only complained to the seller, didn't open a case, but good to know for others thinking otherwise.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Im really impressed with this screen.
> Just got my QX2710LED
> $280
> Free shipping to NZ
> From green-sum.
> 
> Overclocks 144hz. 148 it starts missing frames in the LCD test and 150 it comes up unsupported. (tested going up in 10hz steps then started going down by 2hz until it was stable)
> Sticking to 120hz tho since BF4 doesnt get enough frames at 2K to justify running the extra hz.
> 
> No dead pixels
> Slight light bleeding bottom right corner but its hidden by start bar icon.
> Picture seems to be off slightly upwards since I can see a black line along the bottom and at the top things get slightly cut off.
> 
> Also ordered matt one but got glossy but still better then I expected and very happy,


Grats and its matte under the glass lol.


----------



## Hardrock

So are you guys buying Pixel perfect or not, whats the general consensus on that?


----------



## bmgjet

Mine was just the cheapest lol. Not pixel perfect.


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> So are you guys buying Pixel perfect or not, whats the general consensus on that?


Consensus is that it's pretty much a scam. More than likely the sellers charge extra for a "pixel perfect" monitor but don't really check for dead pixels before they ship it. Maybe 5 out of 10 monitors have no dead pixels as it is, so they make extra money just by chance.

And if the monitor does have dead pixels they just offer a refund for the difference of the price of a non-perfect monitor. And people are okay with this b/c it's easier than shipping it back to get a new one.

But hey, I could be wrong.


----------



## Jetlitheone

So I'm pretty bummed. I ordered my monitor on like Tuesday night and it's still in Korea. It hasn't moved at all either in over 24 hours now... What gives?


----------



## m3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> So I'm pretty bummed. I ordered my monitor on like Tuesday night and it's still in Korea. It hasn't moved at all either in over 24 hours now... What gives?


Mine took a day to get out of korea aswell,whos your shipping provider and what service did your seller get ?
Like mine is fedex economy intl.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3us*
> 
> Mine took a day to get out of korea aswell,whos your shipping provider and what service did your seller get ?
> Like mine is fedex economy intl.


Dream-seller

Fedex economy international

Status: all times in local Korean times.

12/12/2013 - Thursday
-

9:48 pm
At local FedEx facility
JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

2:01 pm
Left FedEx origin facility
SASANG-GU BUSAN KR

10:47 am
Picked up
SASANG-GU BUSAN KR

12/11/2013 - Wednesday
-

12:04 am
Shipment information sent to FedEx


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Well, I got my Matte Qnix QX2710LED the other day. Just got to really test it out last night and today. Panel is near perfect... No back-light bleed that I've noticed. No dead pixels. The bottom center of the bezel (near the Qnix logo) does bow out a little from the panel, but you cannot notice while using, only when inspecting it from the side and it has zero effect on performance.

I'm surprised how good this thing looks and performs. I actually find it's response time to be rather good (I was expecting more ghosting). In fact, I think it performed better on the pixel tests on lagom than my 3ms TN panel did (and it obviously calibrated MUCH better on the rest of the lagom tests due to the PLS panel).

I overclocked it to 120hz no problem. No frame drops. Although, in 120hz, panel uniformity suffers a little. There becomes a bit of gamma shift in the upper left area of the screen, really only noticeable on purple and red screen tests. Blue and green perform well. I'm not noticing any artifacts or anomalies thus far. If I was to do photo work, I'd switch it back to 60Hz mode as it seemed near perfect after slight calibrating using CCC in conjunction with lagom. I will admit, gaming with 120hz and with panel quality such as this, is freaking awesome. Goodbye TN panels.

Panel is well placed into the bezel.

Purchased for $290 shipped from StoreWithStory on ebay. It made it's way from Korea to my house in NJ in less than 24 hours (they shipped it on the 9th, I received it on the 10th via DHL). StorewithStory supposedly does a full test before shipping, offers paid return shipping if DOA, and also a 1 year warranty through them. They did not advertise it as having a volt adapter or US cable, but it came including a US one. I can say I was rather pleased with their service.

This just might be the best $290 I've ever spent.

The stand/enclosure are cheap, but ya know... it sits on the desk just fine.

So, I guess, add me to the club please.

Thanks for the info in the OP - helped me out prior to purchase and also with overclocking.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Anybody from the UK delt with accessories whole from ebay.uk? Or would dream seller ship to uk? And where can I get a glossy monitor from?


Yeah i dealt with them.....got dead pixels so i sent it back and they refunded me.....brilliant communication.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gandscha*
> 
> When i took of that metal frame, that was clipped to the panel and put it on the table i noticed it was not flat at all. It wobbled and the insides, where the tape was applied later on where not flat. It was just not looking right and in my theory it was that uneaveness that caused the bleeding at bottton left+right and top left.
> So it took me about half an hour of bending. The frame was flat in the table then. Still not 100% geometrical correct but MUCH better. I might open it up again to see if i can eliminate that very last of bleeding.
> But now i only see it on a black screen when focussing at that area.


Ok thanks!
I can imagine that a bend frame would give you BLB. I don't think I have the same problem though.
I even tried the panel without having the right frame screwed to the panel, still the same BLB.

Could you see the BLB with normal use? I can only see it with a black background, and with all lights turned off in the room.


----------



## gandscha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Ok thanks!
> I can imagine that a bend frame would give you BLB. I don't think I have the same problem though.
> I even tried the panel without having the right frame screwed to the panel, still the same BLB.
> 
> Could you see the BLB with normal use? I can only see it with a black background, and with all lights turned off in the room.


Room in daylight:
you cant see any backlight bleeding, no chance.

Room with lights dimmed:
i can barely see very little backlight bleeing right above the BRI+. but im biased and i focus on that area. When asking my girlfriend to look for any defects or any deviation, she didn't see it.

Totally dark room:
Yes its noticable when looking at a black screen. But even then its not annoying and i never sit in such darkness. I dont think its comfortable.

After fixing the frame+tape mod i can say im very happy with my Qnix, before i really was not.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gandscha*
> 
> Room in daylight:
> you cant see any backlight bleeding, no chance.
> 
> Room with lights dimmed:
> i can barely see very little backlight bleeing right above the BRI+. but im biased and i focus on that area. When asking my girlfriend to look for any defects or any deviation, she didn't see it.
> 
> Totally dark room:
> Yes its noticable when looking at a black screen. But even then its not annoying and i never sit in such darkness. I dont think its comfortable.
> 
> After fixing the frame+tape mod i can say im very happy with my Qnix, before i really was not.


I assume this is after the mod? I'd say this sounds pretty similar to my experiences with the Qnix.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Dream-seller
> 
> Fedex economy international
> 
> Status: all times in local Korean times.
> 
> 12/12/2013 - Thursday
> -
> 
> 9:48 pm
> At local FedEx facility
> JUNG-GU INCHEON KR
> 
> 2:01 pm
> Left FedEx origin facility
> SASANG-GU BUSAN KR
> 
> 10:47 am
> Picked up
> SASANG-GU BUSAN KR
> 
> 12/11/2013 - Wednesday
> -
> 
> 12:04 am
> Shipment information sent to FedEx


Mine just arrived in grandforks wich is about 3 hrs from me. Not sure ill get it today or not.


----------



## Warsteiner

My monitor is on the truck and out for delivery! I am super excited and hope I got a good one!


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Joseph Dirt*
> 
> Maybe 5 out of 10 monitors have no dead pixels as it is, so they make extra money just by chance.


Hmm, where you getting the 5 out of 10 thing? Honestly I don't think the dead pixel rate is nearly that high (that is to say, I think way more than 5/10 will have NO dead pixels). From reading through this thread very few people report dead pixels, almost everyone reports Backlight Bleed. I think these Samsung panels were rejected for various reasons, so there's definitely a chance for a small number of dead pixels, but by far the most common reason for rejection seems to be backlight bleed, chances are everything else is fine with the majority of the panels.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Freaking two day shipping is going to take 4 days. Bastards.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Ooooo its out for delivery


----------



## ColdFusionWi

I'm pretty sure I'm going to be purchasing a matte X-Star next week. I've spent the last 8 years with an HP w2408 with 1 stuck pixel and a lot of BLB. So even if I get or 2 dead pixels and some BLB I know it will still be much better than what I have right now. I just hope that my 2 670's (FTW models) will keep up with the frame rates; if not I'll more than likely sell them and get a 780 Ti or 290X and call it a day.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> So I'm pretty bummed. I ordered my monitor on like Tuesday night and it's still in Korea. It hasn't moved at all either in over 24 hours now... What gives?


Fedex sucks compared to UPS in this case. Once my first monitor was in UPS hands that thing flew over here. I am in the same boat as you ordered tuesday night and its still in Korea, I see two hits for JUNG-GU INCHEON KR . Last one was lat night at 10:33 pm. Hoping that was when it got on the plane. But hey UPS shattered my screen so I'd rather it get here in one piece a couple days later.

Anyone care to share their recent fedex tracking? Just curious where it enters the US and how long it takes after that.


----------



## passinos

From Dream-Seller.
Bought on 12-6-2013
On fedex vehicle for delivery 12-13-2013. THATS TODAY!!!
Can't wait..
Ordering a second as soon as I sell my 3x u2412m

X-star Matte BTW


----------



## passinos

Damn, Dream Seller just jacked price up from $279 to $299


----------



## Ovrclck

@lightsout

How's your replacement monitor coming along? Did you ever get that squared away?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> @lightsout
> 
> How's your replacement monitor coming along? Did you ever get that squared away?


Didn't know you could tag someone like that.
Yeah I got a refund from Greensum, took a while, finally sent an angry email and he refunded once it was on its way back to Korea.

I ordered the new one from dream seller. Its scheduled to be here tuesday.

Seal beach whats up! I'm in HB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> From Dream-Seller.
> Bought on 12-6-2013
> On fedex vehicle for delivery 12-13-2013. THATS TODAY!!!
> Can't wait..
> Ordering a second as soon as I sell my 3x u2412m
> 
> X-star Matte BTW


Man thats slow delivery compared to UPS. But I know fedex was having issues due to storms this last week.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Good to know that your are getting refunds from the seller. It seems to me that they are avoiding these type of problems.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Fedex sucks compared to UPS in this case. Once my first monitor was in UPS hands that thing flew over here. I am in the same boat as you ordered tuesday night and its still in Korea, I see two hits for JUNG-GU INCHEON KR . Last one was lat night at 10:33 pm. Hoping that was when it got on the plane. But hey UPS shattered my screen so I'd rather it get here in one piece a couple days later.
> 
> Anyone care to share their recent fedex tracking? Just curious where it enters the US and how long it takes after that.


same exact status haha


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Didn't know you could tag someone like that.
> Yeah I got a refund from Greensum, took a while, finally sent an angry email and he refunded once it was on its way back to Korea.
> 
> I ordered the new one from dream seller. Its scheduled to be here tuesday.
> 
> Seal beach whats up! I'm in HB.


Awesome man! Good to hear!

I lived in HB for many years









Do you play bf4? What's your name on there? My brother and I are obsessed (in a healthy kinda way )


----------



## lightsout

I do. My name is lightsout714. Not as good as a lot of folks on this site but I like to play.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I do. My name is lightsout714. Not as good as a lot of folks on this site but I like to play.


I'm not the greatest either, I used to care about stats in bf3. Now it's more fun without worrying about my k/d ratio


----------



## Hardrock

You know my KD ratio ha been taking a beating in BF4, I felt much more locked in with BF3. I don't care, its just fun to unload a full auto clip into someones head.


----------



## lightsout

That's what I'm talking about!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> You know my KD ratio ha been taking a beating in BF4, I felt much more locked in with BF3. I don't care, its just fun to unload a full auto clip into someones head.


----------



## Torethyr

Hey, I'm looking at buying a korean 1440p ips/pls monitor and these seem to be the cheapest ones going right now.

Is it really worth the ~$30 to get the "perfect pixel" guarantee or is it luck of the draw either way? Their wording on the perfect pixel warrantee is a bit dubious.


----------



## FatalProximity

Most people here agree that pixel perfext is just a marketing ploy to get you to pay more. no evidence that they are less likely to have dead pixels


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toerthyr*
> Is it really worth the ~$30 to get the "perfect pixel" guarantee or is it luck of the draw either way? Their wording on the perfect pixel warrantee is a bit dubious.


PIXEL PERFECT VS NON PIXEL-PERFECT = no difference just a scam for more money










Basically hit or miss w/ any. Save money and just buy normal.


----------



## Warsteiner

Well my Monitor got delivered from Dream-Seller around 12:30 PM today. It has been sitting here staring at me while I work. I am resisting the temptation of going home early to hook it up. I did take it out and power it up. I tried with 3 different machines that I have here in my Cube to see if I could get it to work but none of them liked it. I did however get to see the monitor test screens flashing showing a Green, Red, Blue, and other screens. Judging from that I did not see any dead or stuck pixels and I looked at it for quite a while trying to get it to work with my computers. None of them have good video cards as the best I have is integrated with the Intel HD3000. Pretty sure that is why it won't work here. Just shows me a bunch of gobbly **** on the screen.

As a side note this thing is a lot bigger than my 24" monitor. Much bigger than I though it would be.

Quick edit for those of you wanting to know the shipping route it took. Here is my shippers log:

-

12/13/2013 - Friday

12:18 pm Delivered TOLEDO, OH

9:26 am On FedEx vehicle for delivery NORTHWOOD, OH

8:24 am At local FedEx facility NORTHWOOD, OH

6:34 am At destination sort facility ROMULUS, MI

4:03 am Departed FedEx location MEMPHIS, TN

12/12/2013 - Thursday

11:35 pm Arrived at FedEx location MEMPHIS, TN

2:47 pm Departed FedEx location ANCHORAGE, AK

12/11/2013 - Wednesday

4:16 pm International shipment release - Import ANCHORAGE, AK

2:03 pm In transit ANCHORAGE, AK

11:57 am Arrived at FedEx location ANCHORAGE, AK

10:36 pm In transit JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

9:34 pm In transit JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

12/10/2013 - Tuesday

9:47 pm At local FedEx facility JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

2:35 pm Left FedEx origin facility SASANG-GU BUSAN KR

11:18 am Picked up SASANG-GU BUSAN KR


----------



## Ovrclck

dvi-d fo sho


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> dvi-d fo sho


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> PIXEL PERFECT VS NON PIXEL-PERFECT = no difference just a scam for more money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically hit or miss w/ any. Save money and just buy normal.


Apparently works in DVI-I as well and OC's well, at least it does on my SLI Titans as I only have a total of 2x DVI-D ports.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Apparently works in DVI-I as well and OC's well, at least it does on my SLI Titans as I only have a total of 2x DVI-D ports.


Thanks for the clarification. DVI-I works as well. I should know, I was using it on my backup 580


----------



## aaaflyer

hello everyone! newbie here to learn and understand how this monitor works and overclocks!

so glad to have come across this thread. Was doing some research for my new build, was having difficulties deciding 120hz 23inch or 1440p. Never had imagined that 1440p at 120hz is possible at such attractive price (well, overclock to 120hz is a plus)!

I am not buying now, because I will only build my rig at the end of june next year. So will be here reading through the threads and ask questions~ haha









do you guys think the price of the monitor will drop over the next half a year? from what I know the price has increased over the time?

also there is a revision of the version of the plb board? now it is safer and more reliable than before?

thanks!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> hello everyone! newbie here to learn and understand how this monitor works and overclocks!
> 
> so glad to have come across this thread. Was doing some research for my new build, was having difficulties deciding 120hz 23inch or 1440p. Never had imagined that 1440p at 120hz is possible at such attractive price (well, overclock to 120hz is a plus)!
> 
> I am not buying now, because I will only build my rig at the end of june next year. So will be here reading through the threads and ask questions~ haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you guys think the price of the monitor will drop over the next half a year? from what I know the price has increased over the time?
> 
> also there is a revision of the version of the plb board? now it is safer and more reliable than before?
> 
> thanks!


Welcome !

To answer your questions prices are up atm due to limited amounts until more are produced as well as the holidays approaching, so they may or may not decrease after january.

PCB issues have been fixed since revision 0 and are now on either 2 or 3 and no more issues.

Image retention reported seems mostly due to 3rd party apps with incorrect settings. Fix is using the graphics built in software very easy to do.

All other's such as pricing and setting up are on the first page and recommendations for sellers change so feel free to ask!


----------



## semajha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Damn, Dream Seller just jacked price up from $279 to $299


Yup, I should have bought my monitor a couple weeks back when he had it listed for $279. Oh well, $10 difference.

And congrats on your purchase!







I ordered mine yesterday. My package just left SASANG-GU BUSAN KR sorting facility.


----------



## aaaflyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Welcome !
> 
> To answer your questions prices are up atm due to limited amounts until more are produced as well as the holidays approaching, so they may or may not decrease after january.
> 
> PCB issues have been fixed since revision 0 and are now on either 2 or 3 and no more issues.
> 
> Image retention reported seems mostly due to 3rd party apps with incorrect settings. Fix is using the graphics built in software very easy to do.
> 
> All other's such as pricing and setting up are on the first page and recommendations for sellers change so feel free to ask!


thanks LunaP! this thread is really lively~ hahaha yupp have been reading up extensively over the past 2 days. will be here reading and posting questions all the way until june when i can finally post my hoot too!


----------



## Ovrclck

Are two 780 ti classy's overclocked to say 1300mhz enough to run surround sound with decent frame rates or is tri-sli the sweet spot?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Are two 780 ti classy's overclocked to say 1300mhz enough to run surround sound with decent frame rates or is tri-sli the sweet spot?


You should be fine w/ SLI 780's lol friend has a pair while I have Titans we compare benches quite a bit. My titans are currently Stock till I get my WC rig setup so his cards are about 5% faster than mine and I get about 92-100fps on TR w/ max settings minux tress FX so you should definitely get more than 60fps.

Not to mention I'm running PCI-E 2.0 vs 3.0 and much older hardware, vs what he's running.

3 however IS the sweet spot of all since 4 cards is mostly for benchmarking as the frame rates don't really add up at that point and is only recommended for x58 and x79 builds.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Monitor finally in Anchorage Alaska ! says itll be delivered here Tuesday but its friday now I think it'll be here Monday (unless they deliver on weekends?)


----------



## semajha

If it's with FedEx, I believe they do. Just not on Sundays.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> If it's with FedEx, I believe they do. Just not on Sundays.


Actually says special instructions deliver weekday only -.-


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys quick question for ya:

Is it possible to remove the glass on a tempered glass model of the QNIX? I had read a method of doing it for the glassy cover on the Achieva models (heat gun/hair dryer with a credit card and plunger), but wanted to know if there was any definitive proof/guide or walkthrough?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

ok well i got my xstar up and running. so far no dead or stuck pixels alittle blb on the bottom left but not bad at all. I do hovever notice that there is alot of lps sheen... the blacks look like ther are more like glowing... not sure i like that
maybe my brightness is to high


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Hey guys quick question for ya:
> 
> Is it possible to remove the glass on a tempered glass model of the QNIX? I had read a method of doing it for the glassy cover on the Achieva models (heat gun/hair dryer with a credit card and plunger), but wanted to know if there was any definitive proof/guide or walkthrough?


@Stige Removed his with a razor
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/10640#post_21351493

Your method might be cleaner? I don't think there is anything guide wise.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> You should be fine w/ SLI 780's lol friend has a pair while I have Titans we compare benches quite a bit. My titans are currently Stock till I get my WC rig setup so his cards are about 5% faster than mine and I get about 92-100fps on TR w/ max settings minux tress FX so you should definitely get more than 60fps.
> 
> Not to mention I'm running PCI-E 2.0 vs 3.0 and much older hardware, vs what he's running.
> 
> 3 however IS the sweet spot of all since 4 cards is mostly for benchmarking as the frame rates don't really add up at that point and is only recommended for x58 and x79 builds.


Thank you. Another card and two more monitors are on my wishlist now


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Toerthyr*
> Is it really worth the ~$30 to get the "perfect pixel" guarantee or is it luck of the draw either way? Their wording on the perfect pixel warrantee is a bit dubious.
> 
> 
> 
> PIXEL PERFECT VS NON PIXEL-PERFECT = no difference just a scam for more money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically hit or miss w/ any. Save money and just buy normal.
Click to expand...

nothings changed here


----------



## Ovrclck

all your Korean PLS monitors are belong to us


----------



## LotionExplosion

Finally got my X-Star today, just wanted to pitch in and say I have no dead/stuck pixels as well as no BLB.. OC'ed to 96hz just fine, don't have a powerful enough GFX card to take on 120hz right now so I haven't tried it out just yet.

Also, as someone who hasn't used an IPS/PLS panel before.. Holy cow. The difference is insane.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

So is there a way to get a color profile so i can make my whites more white? At this point they seem alittle warm or a hint of yellow. It needs more blue i think. When i go to the color profile it dosnt seem to let me add more blu just take away.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

I dont know.. i guess besides the increase in rez, im not really seeing the huge diffrance...?? Actually the blacks seem worse on this then my old asus. They have the shine" and they look more grey then anything? Maybe im not doing it right?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> Finally got my X-Star today, just wanted to pitch in and say I have no dead/stuck pixels as well as no BLB.. OC'ed to 96hz just fine, don't have a powerful enough GFX card to take on 120hz right now so I haven't tried it out just yet.
> 
> Also, as someone who hasn't used an IPS/PLS panel before.. Holy cow. The difference is insane.


I've never seen a PLS panel in person before either. Crazy goodness.


----------



## lwhitit

Looks like a few of us got deliveries today, I ordered Sunday afternoon HST. Mine started with a Thursday delivery date then jumped to Sunday after spending an extra day waiting for pickup. Check tracking number today and it was delivered! My x-star beat me home, I can't wait to play with it.

Date/TimeActivity Location

12/13/2013 - Friday
-

10:48 am
Delivered
SAN FRANCISCO, CA

8:50 am
On FedEx vehicle for delivery
SAN FRANCISCO, CA

8:34 am
At local FedEx facility
SAN FRANCISCO, CA

6:12 am
At destination sort facility
SAN FRANCISCO, CA

4:16 am
Departed FedEx location
MEMPHIS, TN

12/12/2013 - Thursday
-

11:35 pm
Arrived at FedEx location
MEMPHIS, TN

2:47 pm
Departed FedEx location
ANCHORAGE, AK

12/11/2013 - Wednesday
-

10:36 pm
In transit
JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

9:34 pm
In transit
JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

4:14 pm
International shipment release - Import
ANCHORAGE, AK

2:03 pm
In transit
ANCHORAGE, AK

11:57 am
Arrived at FedEx location
ANCHORAGE, AK

12/10/2013 - Tuesday
-

9:47 pm
At local FedEx facility
JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

2:35 pm
Left FedEx origin facility
SASANG-GU BUSAN KR

11:18 am
Picked up
SASANG-GU BUSAN KR

12/08/2013 - Sunday
-

9:50 pm
Shipment information sent to FedEx


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Hey guys is there away to get my white point to more around 7500k color? 6500 is just to warm for me. I dont see anywere i can adjust this?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Hey guys is there away to get my white point to more around 7500k color? 6500 is just to warm for me. I dont see anywere i can adjust this?


There are a few utilities for this and or some of the ICM's floating around on the threads.

Also










http://www.ebay.com/itm/221333633278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661

I WON w0000 Finally can mark this one off my list









Missed it the last time it was up and coulda gotten it for 120 less but 2nd guessed myself and missed it thank god he put it back up but sadly others found it the 2nd time around


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> nothings changed here


This is why i kind of left this thread.

1. good questions
2. good answers
3. TON OF SHIPPING COMMENTS
4. Same questions again
5. anyone who says "search gets trolled"
6. answer get re-answered
7. REPEAT (1100 pages worth)

Don't believe me search "front porch" and look at all the repeat situations. Then search "shipped" and see 800 of the 1100 pages pop up.

Honestly if you got rid of all the shipping comments and people refusing to read the thread could be maybe as little as 150-250 pages if that. You could fit all the good info into 15-20 pages which is guess is somewhat of the case for many threads but this one in particular is just rampant. I guess it is the nature of the product, its use and the majority of people it attracts to buy.

I do have some good info to add for guys running firefox and use the Qnix at 120hz.

A: Open a new tab
B: Type "about:config" into the address bar(no quotes)
C: Accept that if you just change crap that you don't know what it is and brake firefox it is your own ignorant fault.
D: Search "layout.frame_rate"
E: Right click and click modify
F: Change this value to either your refresh rate of your monitor or exactly double it(i think it looks better doubled)
G: Enjoy a good deal smoother page loading(at least on your eyes)

I have given some good, useful new information. And now for anyone who wants to find this info again after it gets lost in this threads repeat cycle you can SEARCH: Guhpobrake


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> There are a few utilities for this and or some of the ICM's floating around on the threads.
> 
> Also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221333633278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661
> 
> I WON w0000 Finally can mark this one off my list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Missed it the last time it was up and coulda gotten it for 120 less but 2nd guessed myself and missed it thank god he put it back up but sadly others found it the 2nd time around


forgive my ignorance, what is an icm?


----------



## lumpythemoose

Got one from MNW Global (Amazon). Matte non perfect pixel.
2 day shipping to california. OC 120, no dead pixel or BLB. Very satisfied!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> forgive my ignorance, what is an icm?


Image Color Matching Profile but we either refer to them as ICM's or color profiles for short. On the 1st page first post there are a few, and there are others posted around where white balance is fixed.

Just go into your monitor properties and load it up.


----------



## lightsout

Dude $600. You got issues lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Hey guys is there away to get my white point to more around 7500k color? 6500 is just to warm for me. I dont see anywere i can adjust this?
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few utilities for this and or some of the ICM's floating around on the threads.
> 
> Also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221333633278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661
> 
> I WON w0000 Finally can mark this one off my list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Missed it the last time it was up and coulda gotten it for 120 less but 2nd guessed myself and missed it thank god he put it back up but sadly others found it the 2nd time around
Click to expand...


----------



## chalas

Hey guys,

So I got my Qnix today. Not a single problem with pixels or light bleeding. But, the problem I have is with the frame skipping test. The website displays less frames/hertz than the profile I set. Even at 60 is showing 46. Is that fine?

Thanks!


----------



## jakeface1

So I got my "glossy" version of the Qnix today from Green-Sum. It arrived as tempered glass with matte underneath. I removed the glass and the stand, I'm happy to say that it has no dead or stuck pixels and the BLB is only in the bottom right corner. So I just decided to keep it.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Dude $600. You got issues lol.


True but not owning this isn't one of them









Missed it for 500$ previous round, coulda saved money that way, still hunting down the others time to time, and normally this goes for about 1-3k so I lucked out <3

She's gonna be part of the build log you'll see, and you should see my whole collection , you'll come up w/ a different word after


----------



## xNiNELiVES

I know I asked a similar question to this before, but can one see the difference between tempered glass and glossy (without tempered glass?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This is why i kind of left this thread.
> 
> 1. good questions
> 2. good answers
> 3. TON OF SHIPPING COMMENTS
> 4. Same questions again
> 5. anyone who says "search gets trolled"
> 6. answer get re-answered
> 7. REPEAT (1100 pages worth)
> 
> Don't believe me search "front porch" and look at all the repeat situations. Then search "shipped" and see 800 of the 1100 pages pop up.
> 
> Honestly if you got rid of all the shipping comments and people refusing to read the thread could be maybe as little as 150-250 pages if that. You could fit all the good info into 15-20 pages which is guess is somewhat of the case for many threads but this one in particular is just rampant. I guess it is the nature of the product, its use and the majority of people it attracts to buy.
> 
> I do have some good info to add for guys running firefox and use the Qnix at 120hz.
> 
> A: Open a new tab
> B: Type "about:config" into the address bar(no quotes)
> C: Accept that if you just change crap that you don't know what it is and brake firefox it is your own ignorant fault.
> D: Search "layout.frame_rate"
> E: Right click and click modify
> F: Change this value to either your refresh rate of your monitor or exactly double it(i think it looks better doubled)
> G: Enjoy a good deal smoother page loading(at least on your eyes)
> 
> I have given some good, useful new information. And now for anyone who wants to find this info again after it gets lost in this threads repeat cycle you can SEARCH: Guhpobrake


We're all just excited man, this is the thread to share our experiences. Able it be shipping woes or whatever. I use Chrome btw


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Image Color Matching Profile but we either refer to them as ICM's or color profiles for short. On the 1st page first post there are a few, and there are others posted around where white balance is fixed.
> 
> Just go into your monitor properties and load it up.


I did see those on the front page but there all for 6500k. I like mine cooler like 7500.i just wish there was a way to change it besides having to get icc's.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> We're all just excited man, this is the thread to share our experiences. Able it be shipping woes or whatever. I use Chrome btw


Pretty much this id rather have an open lively thread vs a static locked thread lol dobt see the issue and have yet to see someone troll on searching. Were all excited here even when things go wrong we back eachother up


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Pretty much this id rather have an open lively thread vs a static locked thread lol dobt see the issue and have yet to see someone troll on searching. Were all excited here even when things go wrong we back eachother up


+1


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> I did see those on the front page but there all for 6500k. I like mine cooler like 7500.i just wish there was a way to change it besides having to get icc's.


You should be able to set it in the nvidia control panel, been awhile since i owned a nvidia card but with AMD they have a slider to set the color temp, you can just slide it to 7500.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> From Dream-Seller.
> Bought on 12-6-2013
> On fedex vehicle for delivery 12-13-2013. THATS TODAY!!!
> Can't wait..
> Ordering a second as soon as I sell my 3x u2412m
> 
> X-star Matte BTW


Got my X-star today

looking good here. Bleed is not worse than my Dell's at got 96hz first round. MOH and BF4 are awesome!
trying 110 and 120 tomorrow.

Any use AMD CCC for LCD overdrive? suppose to higher power to LCD to prevent Ghosting or something.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> You should be able to set it in the nvidia control panel, been awhile since i owned a nvidia card but with AMD they have a slider to set the color temp, you can just slide it to 7500.
> 
> 
> 
> I did read that amd owners can do that. I can not find any settings in the NVidia control though
Click to expand...


----------



## jakeface1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I know I asked a similar question to this before, but can one see the difference between tempered glass and glossy (without tempered glass?


Mine was tempered with matte underneath but I could tell the difference. The glass is way too reflective and almost caused a haze to the entire image. Maybe that's because it was matte under? I'm not sure.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakeface1*
> 
> Mine was tempered with matte underneath but I could tell the difference. The glass is way too reflective and almost caused a haze to the entire image. Maybe that's because it was matte under? I'm not sure.


I'm talking about gloss vs glass though...


----------



## Warsteiner

Well I finally got my monitor setup and tested. I took me a while because I hooked up my VESA mount at the same time. So far no dead/stuck pixels that I can see and no BLB. I feel like I hit the lottery. This thing is absolutely worth every penny! Now I just gotta get some time to try overclocking it.


----------



## sat1va

My qnix just arrived from here - http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=17&product_id=44

Oh boy am i not sorry i bought this thing! Thing came very securely packaged and cushioned on my doorstep after 6 days of ordering. Did order on a friday so it's really only 3/4 days. Free shippiung.

Just plugged it in and got it going, have had it going for about 45 minutes and im yet to find one imperfection on the panel. Have been eyeing off every pixel on different coloured backgrounds and i'm yet to find a dead or stuck pixel. The build quality greatly exceeds my expectations, the stand actually isn't as you hear people harp on about. I have to hit my desk pretty hard to make it wobble. Coming from a 27 inch 1080p TN panel is like going from a daewoo to a diablo. I feel the need to cuss to express my adoration of this thing, but i've already received 2 warnings on OCN and i fear another will provoke disciplinary action frown.gif

Everything on my desktop looks 5 times smaller than it did before, and 10 times clearer. The colours are amazing they are vibrant and pop out of the screen, whites and pure and blacks are suprisingly dark. I guess that's just my lack of IPS experience talking.

I can't waste anymore precious seconds it's time to enjoy this thing and let me rig finally stretch its legs and show me what it's got.

Game on.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sat1va*
> 
> My qnix just arrived from here - http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=17&product_id=44
> 
> Oh boy am i not sorry i bought this thing! Thing came very securely packaged and cushioned on my doorstep after 6 days of ordering. Did order on a friday so it's really only 3/4 days. Free shippiung.
> 
> Just plugged it in and got it going, have had it going for about 45 minutes and im yet to find one imperfection on the panel. Have been eyeing off every pixel on different coloured backgrounds and i'm yet to find a dead or stuck pixel. The build quality greatly exceeds my expectations, the stand actually isn't as you hear people harp on about. I have to hit my desk pretty hard to make it wobble. Coming from a 27 inch 1080p TN panel is like going from a daewoo to a diablo. I feel the need to cuss to express my adoration of this thing, but i've already received 2 warnings on OCN and i fear another will provoke disciplinary action frown.gif
> 
> *Everything on my desktop looks 5 times smaller than it did before, and 10 times clearer. The colours are amazing they are vibrant and pop out of the screen, whites and pure and blacks are suprisingly dark. I guess that's just my lack of IPS experience talking.*
> 
> I can't waste anymore precious seconds it's time to enjoy this thing and let me rig finally stretch its legs and show me what it's got.
> 
> Game on.


If you want a laugh, plug in your old monitor and take a look. When I returned mine, I plugged in my old 22 tn panel from 7 years ago and it looked so aweful. Colors were flat and bland, everything looks so full. Don't know how I used it for so long. I don't think I can ever not use an ips/pls monitor forever now.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Dude $600. You got issues lol.
> 
> 
> 
> True but not owning this isn't one of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Missed it for 500$ previous round, coulda saved money that way, still hunting down the others time to time, and normally this goes for about 1-3k so I lucked out <3
> 
> She's gonna be part of the build log you'll see, and you should see my whole collection , you'll come up w/ a different word after
Click to expand...

Looking forward to it


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sat1va*
> 
> My qnix just arrived from here - http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=17&product_id=44
> 
> Oh boy am i not sorry i bought this thing! Thing came very securely packaged and cushioned on my doorstep after 6 days of ordering. Did order on a friday so it's really only 3/4 days. Free shippiung.
> 
> Just plugged it in and got it going, have had it going for about 45 minutes and im yet to find one imperfection on the panel. Have been eyeing off every pixel on different coloured backgrounds and i'm yet to find a dead or stuck pixel. The build quality greatly exceeds my expectations, the stand actually isn't as you hear people harp on about. I have to hit my desk pretty hard to make it wobble. Coming from a 27 inch 1080p TN panel is like going from a daewoo to a diablo. I feel the need to cuss to express my adoration of this thing, but i've already received 2 warnings on OCN and i fear another will provoke disciplinary action frown.gif
> 
> Everything on my desktop looks 5 times smaller than it did before, and 10 times clearer. The colours are amazing they are vibrant and pop out of the screen, whites and pure and blacks are suprisingly dark. I guess that's just my lack of IPS experience talking.
> 
> I can't waste anymore precious seconds it's time to enjoy this thing and let me rig finally stretch its legs and show me what it's got.
> 
> Game on.


That's a good price, to bad they r out of stock

LOL Looks like thy r back in stock an hour later ! HA


----------



## Hardrock

Well I am officially part of the club. I put a low ball offer in on a Pixel Perfect QX2710 and the guy accepted LOL, got it for $ 325, list $ 349.95. Do you guys think I should get the square trade warranty ?

Got it from "storewithstory" on Ebay.

Well it looks like I have 30 days to buy the Square Trade warranty, I will just wait and see what the monitor look once its delivered.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

its really hard to tell if I do have blb... the pls glow is hard to really tell. if I shift my head what I think is bleed just turns black. I think there may be a tiny bit on the bottom lol not sure...


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> its really hard to tell if I do have blb... the pls glow is hard to really tell. if I shift my head what I think is bleed just turns black. I think there may be a tiny bit on the bottom lol not sure...


Don't bother wasting your time worrying about back light bleed imo. Even if you buy local and spend 5 grand on a tv backlight bleed happens on some sets. If it's to the level of it being defective then you wouldn't have to second guess it. Just enjoy.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Don't bother wasting your time worrying about back light bleed imo. Even if you buy local and spend 5 grand on a tv backlight bleed happens on some sets. If it's to the level of it being defective then you wouldn't have to second guess it. Just enjoy.


Yep. My dell ultrasharp has ips glow. It's normal lol


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> its really hard to tell if I do have blb... the pls glow is hard to really tell. if I shift my head what I think is bleed just turns black. I think there may be a tiny bit on the bottom lol not sure...


That's rather normal to be honest. Even the top end A+ grade panels occasionally have such effect. The problem, if you can even call it a problem, seems to be that if you watch the monitor from small angles the backlight comes more visible and thus there seems to be a bit backlight bleeding in bottom of the screen if you turn your head in certain ways (because the stand is too low in my opinion). At least in my case that's quite easily fixed by raising the monitor a bit (have a book or whatever under the stand) so there's less angle and thus the black might look better. I wouldn't bother too much though as it sounds rather minimal and you probably won't even notice it unless it's a very dark scene and you are paying special attention to it.


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> So is there a way to get a color profile so i can make my whites more white? At this point they seem alittle warm or a hint of yellow. It needs more blue i think. When i go to the color profile it dosnt seem to let me add more blu just take away.


Try my profile. It's also 6500k but the white is a lot more whiter than in any of the profiles on the front page. I also found the profiles on the front page rather yellow and mine is quite different and worked for quite a few so far. Give it a shot at least.

QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file


And sorry for the double post.. Was browsing through the posts and didn't realize I was replying to the same guy in two different posts... Should probably get some sleep sometimes too


----------



## jadenx2

quick question: if i'm using CRU to OC, do i need to reboot every time i want to switch back to 60hz? or can i just switch to 60z through my nvidia CP on the fly?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> quick question: if i'm using CRU to OC, do i need to reboot every time i want to switch back to 60hz? or can i just switch to 60z through my nvidia CP on the fly?


oh wow that's what im talking about. thanks man! how did you get the whites better? what are u using?
thanks
again +1 rep for you sir


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> oh wow that's what im talking about. thanks man! how did you get the whites better? what are u using?
> thanks
> again +1 rep for you sir


I suppose you were replying to me. I calibrated it with Spyder4 pro in a room which has quite dim lightning.

And to the other guy; you can change the refresh rate on fly. You only need to reboot if you set up a new profile.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Try my profile. It's also 6500k but the white is a lot more whiter than in any of the profiles on the front page. I also found the profiles on the front page rather yellow and mine is quite different and worked for quite a few so far. Give it a shot at least.
> 
> QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> And sorry for the double post.. Was browsing through the posts and didn't realize I was replying to the same guy in two different posts... Should probably get some sleep sometimes too


I've tried 12 different ICC profiles so far and this is by far the best. Whites are white as hell, blacks are black, and eveything looks how it should. Been using it for a week now or so whenever you first posted it. Thank you again!


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> I've tried 12 different ICC profiles so far and this is by far the best. Whites are white as hell, blacks are black, and eveything looks how it should. Been using it for a week now or so whenever you first posted it.


What did you like about the updated version btw? Were the greys better on your screen than before?


----------



## TelFiRE

I did get 96hz working in games btw. Thanks for all who helped.

I honestly can't see a difference, trying really hard, but 60hz seems to be just as good.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> What did you like about the updated version btw? Were the greys better on your screen than before?


Grays pop more and white actually got slightly whiter from the first version lol. Blues are deeper.


----------



## NitrousX

Just received my Qnix earlier today. Just put it together and man the colors look incredible! There are no visible dead pixels and there is minimal bleeding. The only problem I have with my particular unit is that the overall image seems to be a little bit blurred (kinda like using FXAA in games). I am using the included DVI adapter and both ends are connected firmly. Do I maybe need to adjust the cleartype settings or something?


----------



## aaaflyer

hey guys, wanna know what are the pros of getting a glass screen beside easy cleaning.

is the clarity between matte and glossy about the same? since matte layer is grain free.

also, does the quality of the dual link dvi affect the ability to overclock if i am using high tier gpu? quality of the cable came with the monitor?

thanks!


----------



## jiangster

I was wondering the same thing -- about the matte vs glossy. Also are all "tempered glass" models glossy by default? I heard some people mention that both matte and glossy panels can have a tempered glass over it... and that dust is prone to gather between the panel and the glass.

Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Anusha

I believe the ones marked in red are the actual backlight bleeds, but what's the reason for those bright sports near the corners?



P.S.
My camera sucks.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I know I asked a similar question to this before, but can one see the difference between tempered glass and glossy (without tempered glass?


Yes, you got tempered glass if you don't get distortion when you push on the monitor with your finger.

If you got the tempered glass it also might feel like plastic when you touch it, atleast mine did even though it was clearly glass when I removed it.

Hope this helps a little bit.


----------



## aufkrawall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> I believe the ones marked in red are the actual backlight bleeds, but what's the reason for those bright sports near the corners?
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.
> My camera sucks.


Should be the IPS glow.

I got my Qnix now for 1.5 weeks and so far I'm very happy with it.
It's tempered glass. Should there be any kind of "moving surface particles" visible with a glossy panel? I have the suspicion that it's probably a matte panel behind the glass.
I got one defect pixel (which I don't notice in games and movies) and some minor backlight bleeding.
There's also a vertical line visible in the right half, but just with some colors like dark yellow. Most likely nothing I can do about this?
It's not a big deal though, I had more expensive 1080p displays that showed such issues much stronger.


----------



## cloudbuster

Hi guys is there really a diference when it comes to AH-IPS and PLS?
There a few different ones on eBay any particular brand is AH-IPS is better.
I would be building a new PC with a R9 280X and I5.

My old monitor was a gateway 23 1200 60hz.
I never notice any bad lag.

I will mainly play RPG/ PVP

Thanks.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Damn fedex. package is at local facility.

says since the delivery date is Tuesday I cant pick it up and it might not come till Tuesday.

Does that make any sense!?..









Delivery date was Monday but it changed cause Fedex is slow but they got here early..


----------



## PvT Parts

So I was messing around looking at my book marked pages and I still had my book mark for my Qnix from geen-sum just checked it out again for the hell of it. Then I saw the freaking price....Hes selling it for $469.00 now! *** lol I bought mine from him literately a week ago for 299.00. Its not just that all the qnix got jacked up in price. I was hopping to buy a 2nd Qnix but I guess i'll be waiting till the holiday season is over. Hopefully it will go back down.


----------



## m3us

Just received my monitor,it had no dead pixels and has some minimal backlight bleed on top (negligible)
OCed to 96hz no problems.
Dream seller actually checks his monitors before shipping em so I can vouch for him


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Yes, you got tempered glass if you don't get distortion when you push on the monitor with your finger.
> 
> If you got the tempered glass it also might feel like plastic when you touch it, atleast mine did even though it was clearly glass when I removed it.
> 
> Hope this helps a little bit.


+1

How does one remove the glass? I've checked through the thread about especially the opening post. I found no guides to remove the glass...


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> What did you like about the updated version btw? Were the greys better on your screen than before?


The greys are much better! Mine had a yellowish tint. Took that right away. I really love this color profile. Can't thank you enough.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> +1
> 
> How does one remove the glass? I've checked through the thread about especially the opening post. I found no guides to remove the glass...


exacto knife or hot air gun to loosen the glue then cut free.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> exacto knife or hot air gun to loosen the glue then cut free.


I do this after I've removed the bezel I assume? I feel like within doing that process I'll damage the panel with the heat or something...


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> What did you like about the updated version btw? Were the greys better on your screen than before?


Where are your ICC profiles located? I here the good feedback, when I get my monitor I'd like to have them at the ready.


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Where are your ICC profiles located? I here the good feedback, when I get my monitor I'd like to have them at the ready.


On the last two pages of this thread at least and you can also search my old posts. There's not too many of them. But I'll quote myself here for you, just learn to use the search in the future








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Try my profile. It's also 6500k but the white is a lot more whiter than in any of the profiles on the front page. I also found the profiles on the front page rather yellow and mine is quite different and worked for quite a few so far. Give it a shot at least.
> 
> QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file


There's also an older version available in some of my older posts, but the updated version should be way better. Feel free to try the old one too though, but pay attention to your grays and see how they looks since they are a bit greenish in my older profile which is fixed in the updated version.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> The greys are much better! Mine had a yellowish tint. Took that right away. I really love this color profile. Can't thank you enough.


I meant compared to my older profile, which had greenish grays. But I'm glad my profile is working well for you as well! I find it a bit odd that so many people find my profile much better than the ones on the front page even thought there's a lot of them available. I wonder what devices and softwares were used with them and if they make such a big difference. I wish my profile would be added to the front page too, but it seems like it's not being updated anymore. I even sent a PM to him


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Yea hopefully your latest profile gets on the main page


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> On the last two pages of this thread at least and you can also search my old posts. There's not too many of them. But I'll quote myself here for you, just learn to use the search in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's also an older version available in some of my older posts, but the updated version should be way better. Feel free to try the old one too though, but pay attention to your grays and see how they looks since they are a bit greenish in my older profile which is fixed in the updated version.
> I meant compared to my older profile, which had greenish grays. But I'm glad my profile is working well for you as well! I find it a bit odd that so many people find my profile much better than the ones on the front page even thought there's a lot of them available. I wonder what devices and softwares were used with them and if they make such a big difference. I wish my profile would be added to the front page too, but it seems like it's not being updated anymore. I even sent a PM to him


Thanks! That makes it a lot easier to access. What gamma are you using with this? Can you make a glossy 120hz profile?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I do this after I've removed the bezel I assume? I feel like within doing that process I'll damage the panel with the heat or something...


That is correct. I've never done it, can't really comment.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> hey guys, wanna know what are the pros of getting a glass screen beside easy cleaning.
> 
> is the clarity between matte and glossy about the same? since matte layer is grain free.
> 
> also, does the quality of the dual link dvi affect the ability to overclock if i am using high tier gpu? quality of the cable came with the monitor?
> 
> thanks!


Stige has comparison photos with the glass on and off, about 7 pages back or if you look in the gallery, he can also post it.

As for the cable the one it comes with is fine, but if you're buying or have a separate cable make sure its rated in the 9gb range. The GPU doesn't matter as long as it's supported.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jiangster*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing -- about the matte vs glossy. Also are all "tempered glass" models glossy by default? I heard some people mention that both matte and glossy panels can have a tempered glass over it... and that dust is prone to gather between the panel and the glass.
> 
> Can anyone confirm this?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Dust can only get in when they initially put the glass on. None of mine have it. The glass as mentioned above adds somewhat of a small clarity offset as well as brightness but probably by about 1% for clarity and you can see the difference in contract. Combine matte + the glass + Gloss and you've got a good 3-5% difference from Gloss at least.

Is it really noticable? No, unless you have them side by side for comparison.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Yes, you got tempered glass if you don't get distortion when you push on the monitor with your finger.
> 
> If you got the tempered glass it also might feel like plastic when you touch it, atleast mine did even though it was clearly glass when I removed it.
> 
> Hope this helps a little bit.


Adding on to this for the initial question, you CAN tell the difference between Gloss underneath and Matte. If Matte is underneath you will not see deep blacks when the monitor is off. Such as I have my tempered next to mine I will see a MUCH brighter black backround on the tempered glass when the monitor is off as far as reflections go.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cloudbuster*
> 
> Hi guys is there really a diference when it comes to AH-IPS and PLS?
> There a few different ones on eBay any particular brand is AH-IPS is better.
> I would be building a new PC with a R9 280X and I5.
> 
> My old monitor was a gateway 23 1200 60hz.
> I never notice any bad lag.
> 
> I will mainly play RPG/ PVP
> 
> Thanks.


PLS is newer so the quality is a bit better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PvT Parts*
> 
> So I was messing around looking at my book marked pages and I still had my book mark for my Qnix from geen-sum just checked it out again for the hell of it. Then I saw the freaking price....Hes selling it for $469.00 now! *** lol I bought mine from him literately a week ago for 299.00. Its not just that all the qnix got jacked up in price. I was hopping to buy a 2nd Qnix but I guess i'll be waiting till the holiday season is over. Hopefully it will go back down.


From the sounds of it they're running out of stock, as they've been telling me they've been waiting for more production.

Currently Regular Gloss is also in production.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> +1
> 
> How does one remove the glass? I've checked through the thread about especially the opening post. I found no guides to remove the glass...


Stige posted screenshots a while back basically after removing the faceplate you need a sharp/thin razor to remove the tape holding the glass down so that you don't dmg the glass/screen. Stige can fill you in.


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Thanks! That makes it a lot easier to access. What gamma are you using with this? Can you make a glossy 120hz profile?


It's 2.2 gamma, 120 cd/m2 brightness, 6500k white level and 12 clicks brightness from the minimum. And no I can't calibrate a glossy monitor because I don't have one. Mine is matta and doesn't really run too well @ 120hz and thus I am not really bothered of doing one right now. It runs decently @ 117hz though so I might do calibration in that rate at some point, but I have the device in it's own box right now and I can't be bothered to fix one now. I'll need to get myself a 110hz profile at some point so I guess that's when I'll do a 120hz (or 117hz) version too.


----------



## semajha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> hey guys, wanna know what are the pros of getting a glass screen beside easy cleaning.
> 
> is the clarity between matte and glossy about the same? since matte layer is grain free.
> 
> also, does the quality of the dual link dvi affect the ability to overclock if i am using high tier gpu? quality of the cable came with the monitor?
> 
> thanks!


Hmmm.. Did you come from a glossy display before rGetting your qnix


----------



## semajha

Ignore the last post, I quoted the wrong person and couldn't delete it. On my phone


----------



## aaaflyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> +1
> 
> How does one remove the glass? I've checked through the thread about especially the opening post. I found no guides to remove the glass...


why u guys want to remove the glass? since its matte underneath, just order a matte will do no?

even if for debezel, a pure matte/glossy without the glass is easier right? confused


----------



## the9quad

Add me to the list of people using vesanius's new ICC profile.

On a side note: My qnix OC's perfectly fine to 120 hz, but I run it at 100hz as I cant tell the difference, and it allows me to run games with a 102 framerate limit. I seem to end up with less stress on my cards and my monitor that way (that's what I am telling myself anyway, because it seems logical).


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Add me to the list of people using vesanius's new ICC profile.
> 
> On a side note: My qnix OC's perfectly fine to 120 hz, but I run it at 100hz as I cant tell the difference, and it allows me to run games with a 102 framerate limit. I seem to end up with less stress on my cards and my monitor that way (that's what I am telling myself anyway, because it seems logical).


The most important thing is your own eye. If you can't see any difference then there's absolutely no reason to OC the monitor to 120Hz as it does require more from your GPU. Except that a higher refresh rate should be easier for your eyes, which can be noticed if you sit at the computer for a long period. I'm personally using 96hz too and occasionally 110hz while I'm gaming. I'm keeping it @ 96hz while not gaming so it's multiplied by 24, which is the frame rate that most of the video is captured and thus it should give a smoother look. And it's great to see that the profile works yet for another person. I almost didn't post it at all in the first place so the fact that people find it a good profile makes me happy


----------



## cloudbuster

so is PLS newer than AH-IPS?
I thought AH was the newer version.

I was willing to sacrifice refresh rate for color quality.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Damn fedex. package is at local facility.
> 
> says since the delivery date is Tuesday I cant pick it up and it might not come till Tuesday.
> 
> Does that make any sense!?..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Delivery date was Monday but it changed cause Fedex is slow but they got here early..


Yeah mines in oakland. (I'm in SoCal). Mine still says tuesday but I think its going to change. If not oh well but we'll see. I won't have a gpu to test an monday now anyways. Sold my 660's getting a 780 in a few days


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Yeah mines in oakland. (I'm in SoCal). Mine still says tuesday but I think its going to change. If not oh well but we'll see. I won't have a gpu to test an monday now anyways. Sold my 660's getting a 780 in a few days


So aggravating lol just want it.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

so this monitor is starting to grow on me,







I guess the only thing im alittle disapointed is on a all black screen the black leve isn any better then my tn panel if not a touch worse... it that dang pls glow. is there anything I can do to fix this?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Yeah mines in oakland. (I'm in SoCal). Mine still says tuesday but I think its going to change. If not oh well but we'll see. I won't have a gpu to test an monday now anyways. Sold my 660's getting a 780 in a few days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So aggravating lol just want it.
Click to expand...

Trust me I know, I was all excited last week when mine showed up only to shake the box and hear all the broken glass. Then it sat there in the box all week staring at me.







Now thats finally over ready for mine as well.!

So these things don't work on onboard graphics right? Its not the right type of DVI?


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> so this monitor is starting to grow on me,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the only thing im alittle disapointed is on a all black screen the black leve isn any better then my tn panel if not a touch worse... it that dang pls glow. is there anything I can do to fix this?


Check the main page. There's a guide in the first post which may or may not help with the BLB. It requires you to remove the bezel and open the metal framing of the panel, but it's not rocket science. A common sense to not use too much force on anything and being overall careful applies though. I personally couldn't bother doing that since it doesn't really bother me that much. The metal frame of my panel was bend a bit, but it seems to have no effect (for some people it causes more BLB).


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Check the main page. There's a guide in the first post which may or may not help with the BLB. It requires you to remove the bezel and open the metal framing of the panel, but it's not rocket science. A common sense to not use too much force on anything and being overall careful applies though. I personally couldn't bother doing that since it doesn't really bother me that much. The metal frame of my panel was bend a bit, but it seems to have no effect (for some people it causes more BLB).


well I don't think I explained my self sorry, I don't think I have blb very bad. its just the kinda shimmer or "shine from the panel. it dosnt allow it to get that deep inky black at all. blb has more of a yellow is sheen like a flash light this purblish sheen is just all over and kinda changes when the way you look at it. I suppose its just the way it is but its defiantly not as good as I had hoped.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I do this after I've removed the bezel I assume? I feel like within doing that process I'll damage the panel with the heat or something...


4 screws and the front bezel comes off, only thing you need to do to remove the glass.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> +1
> 
> How does one remove the glass? I've checked through the thread about especially the opening post. I found no guides to remove the glass...


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> well I don't think I explained my self sorry, I don't think I have blb very bad. its just the kinda shimmer or "shine from the panel. it dosnt allow it to get that deep inky black at all. blb has more of a yellow is sheen like a flash light this purblish sheen is just all over and kinda changes when the way you look at it. I suppose its just the way it is but its defiantly not as good as I had hoped.


You explained you well enough and I get what you mean as mine is just the same. I just think that taping could potentially help with this exact problem. I just don't find it annoying enough myself to do it for my panel.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> 4 screws and the front bezel comes off, only thing you need to do to remove the glass.


Does it leave any residue? Thanks by the way for showing me.


----------



## TelFiRE

Man, this thread moves really fast. I hope there's time for someone to see and give me an answer to this question...

If I am considering three of these, what is the cheapest way to get that to work on a GPU with only 2 DVI ports (GTX 780) plus HDMI and what I think is DisplayPort?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Man, this thread moves really fast. I hope there's time for someone to see and give me an answer to this question...
> 
> If I am considering three of these, what is the cheapest way to get that to work on a GPU with only 2 DVI ports (GTX 780) plus HDMI and what I think is DisplayPort?


Pretty sure you need an active display port to dvi adapter. But someone else can confirm.


----------



## bmgjet

Just went and placed feedback on Green-sum.
The screen I bought for $280 is no selling for $469.00

Looks like I got my one at a good time.

Thats the second thing Iv bought at just the right time.
Got my 2X 7970s for $288 each and now the same ones are $397


----------



## romboy

So whats everybody using for color calibration profile?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

These ICC profiles don't seem to do anything!!! I don't see any visual color difference. Whats wrong with my monitor or computer?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Try my profile. It's also 6500k but the white is a lot more whiter than in any of the profiles on the front page. I also found the profiles on the front page rather yellow and mine is quite different and worked for quite a few so far. Give it a shot at least.
> 
> QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> And sorry for the double post.. Was browsing through the posts and didn't realize I was replying to the same guy in two different posts... Should probably get some sleep sometimes too


this one is the best! Vesanius nailed it!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Just went and placed feedback on Green-sum.
> The screen I bought for $280 is no selling for $469.00
> 
> Looks like I got my one at a good time.
> 
> Thats the second thing Iv bought at just the right time.
> Got my 2X 7970s for $288 each and now the same ones are $397


You can still get the xstar which is the same thing for $305.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

so is there a way to have one wallpaper on my xstar and another on my old asus?


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> These ICC profiles don't seem to do anything!!! I don't see any visual color difference. Whats wrong with my monitor or computer?


Download a profile, double click it so it copies the file to the correct Windows folder. Once that's done open Control Center ▸ Color Management and then add the profile to the system by clicking the Add button. Click on the Advanced tab and look for Display Calibration. Calibration curve loading is enabled by the Use Windows display calibration checkbox but it is not sensitive. This can be enabled by clicking on Change system defaults and then returning to the Advanced tab and then clicking the checkbox.

Hopefully that helps. You should see a huge difference with a calibrated icc profile.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> so is there a way to have one wallpaper on my xstar and another on my old asus?


Not without having a a software doing it. I am using DisplayFusion for multiscreen tools and I love it. It happens ot be on steam sale every now and then and I paid 7 or 8 euros (~$10) for mine. It also has a free version which gives you plenty of good options too and one of them is to have different wallpapers on each monitors. It supports different resolutions and all that so give it a try. I'm sure you'll like it.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Does it leave any residue? Thanks by the way for showing me.


Well it's some sort of glue so a bit, but it is easy to scrape off if it does.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Well it's some sort of glue so a bit, but it is easy to scrape off if it does.


I just got my monitor 30 min ago and have been using it. Fixed the stupid ICC profile issue. I needed to check a box in advance settings for it to actually work... Right now the ICC profile by NCX over on his review @120hz seems to be best adjusted for my monitor... The whitebalance seems to be most spot on.

Anyways I think I might have gotten the original glossy or something. It doesn't seem like glass to me... I'll post a pic

No image retention by the way works fine at 120hz, haven't tested any farther. Smooth as hell. 1 single dead pixel though... Can't even find it again though lol.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Well it's some sort of glue so a bit, but it is easy to scrape off if it does.


Is there any way to get the tempered glass back on if say i only wanted to take it off to see what's behind it or is it a once it's off it stays off type of deal???


----------



## m3us

can running the monitor with an oc ruin the monitor in the long run?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> so is there a way to have one wallpaper on my xstar and another on my old asus?


Ultramon is a must with any multi monitor setup. I guess it costs money I have an old *ahem* cracked version.

http://www.realtimesoft.com/ultramon/

This one has a free version.
http://www.displayfusion.com/


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Ultramon is a must with any multi monitor setup. I guess it costs money I have an old *ahem* cracked version.
> 
> http://www.realtimesoft.com/ultramon/
> 
> This one has a free version.
> http://www.displayfusion.com/


DisplayFusion does the same and based on the features on the site even more and costs less. Especially if you can grab it from a steam sale, which is quite likely around the Christmas time. It's available without steam too, but the steam version is the same as Pro and I got mine from steam for -75%. Software bought from steam won't require steam running either as it will be installed just as any other software and only they activation key and the downloaded files come from it. Oh and most of the base features are available in the free version as well and those are more than enough for most of the users. Just my two cents.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Ultramon is a must with any multi monitor setup. I guess it costs money I have an old *ahem* cracked version.
> 
> http://www.realtimesoft.com/ultramon/
> 
> This one has a free version.
> http://www.displayfusion.com/
> 
> 
> 
> DisplayFusion does the same and based on the features on the site even more and costs less. Especially if you can grab it from a steam sale, which is quite likely around the Christmas time. It's available without steam too, but the steam version is the same as Pro and I got mine from steam for -75%. Software bought from steam won't require steam running either as it will be installed just as any other software and only they activation key and the downloaded files come from it. Oh and most of the base features are available in the free version as well and those are more than enough for most of the users. Just my two cents.
Click to expand...

Yes thanks I have always used the copy of ultramon I have but saw display fusion via google. It does look like the better choice and the free version will probably do what he wanted. I did not realize steam sold software though thans for the tip.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I just got my monitor 30 min ago and have been using it. Fixed the stupid ICC profile issue. I needed to check a box in advance settings for it to actually work... Right now the ICC profile by NCX over on his review @120hz seems to be best adjusted for my monitor... The whitebalance seems to be most spot on.
> 
> Anyways I think I might have gotten the original glossy or something. It doesn't seem like glass to me... I'll post a pic
> 
> No image retention by the way works fine at 120hz, haven't tested any farther. Smooth as hell. 1 single dead pixel though... Can't even find it again though lol.


Jealous lol they won't deliver it even though it's 20 min down the road


----------



## mmille24

So I got my xstar monitor and when plugging it in, it keeps shuffling through different colors. Anyone have this issue before? Anyone know what the problem could be?

It does this:


----------



## jakeface1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> So I got my xstar monitor and when plugging it in, it keeps shuffling through different colors. Anyone have this issue before? Anyone know what the problem could be?
> 
> It does this:


Mine does the same thing when the dvi cable is unplugged. I think it a diagnostics of some sort.


----------



## mmille24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakeface1*
> 
> Mine does the same thing when the dvi cable is unplugged. I think it a diagnostics of some sort.


So then maybe the DVI connection from the computer to the monitor isn't valid?


----------



## jakeface1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> So then maybe the DVI connection from the computer to the monitor isn't valid?


Possibly, do you have another cable you can try?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Jealous lol they won't deliver it even though it's 20 min down the road


I got mine in 2 days and I live in Cali. Though I got it off of eBay.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> So then maybe the DVI connection from the computer to the monitor isn't valid?


You are using a Dual link DVI Cable and have a Dual link DVI capable graphics card ?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Heres the picture of my monitor. I think it may be originally glossy. I can't tell if it is or glass over gloss. Even by pressing the surface I can't tell.


----------



## mmille24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> You are using a Dual link DVI Cable and have a Dual link DVI capable graphics card ?


I only have one monitor and no video card. I'm plugging the DVI cable into the motherboard (HD4000) graphics card.


----------



## NitrousX

So I overclocked my QNIX to 96Hz successfully and there is no frame skipping according to the testufo website. My question is that every time NVIDIA releases a new set of drivers (whether it be WHQL or BETA), do I have to reapply Toasty's patch and as well as the CRU? If you someone could give me a definitive answer on this that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## jakeface1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> I only have one monitor and no video card. I'm plugging the DVI cable into the motherboard (HD4000) graphics card.


That may be the issue. Is it a dual link DVI out on your PC?

EDIT: After looking into it, the HD4000 does not support dual link DVI. :/


----------



## Hardrock

Oh, there is your problem. That wont work. You will need to buy a graphics card with DVI-D capability. What do you plan to do with this PC, are you gonna run games ? Are you trying to run this monitor off a Laptop ?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

my new R9 290x won't do 110hz on either dvi-d port







my old 7950's would guess I gotta try 96hz now


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> nothings changed here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *This is why i kind of left this thread.*
> 
> 1. good questions
> 2. good answers
> 3. TON OF SHIPPING COMMENTS
> 4. Same questions again
> 5. anyone who says "search gets trolled"
> 6. answer get re-answered
> 7. REPEAT (1100 pages worth)
> 
> Don't believe me search "front porch" and look at all the repeat situations. Then search "shipped" and see 800 of the 1100 pages pop up.
> 
> Honestly if you got rid of all the shipping comments and people refusing to read the thread could be maybe as little as 150-250 pages if that. You could fit all the good info into 15-20 pages which is guess is somewhat of the case for many threads but this one in particular is just rampant. I guess it is the nature of the product, its use and the majority of people it attracts to buy.
> 
> I do have some good info to add for guys running firefox and use the Qnix at 120hz.
> 
> A: Open a new tab
> B: Type "about:config" into the address bar(no quotes)
> C: Accept that if you just change crap that you don't know what it is and brake firefox it is your own ignorant fault.
> D: Search "layout.frame_rate"
> E: Right click and click modify
> F: Change this value to either your refresh rate of your monitor or exactly double it(i think it looks better doubled)
> G: Enjoy a good deal smoother page loading(at least on your eyes)
> 
> I have given some good, useful new information. And now for anyone who wants to find this info again after it gets lost in this threads repeat cycle you can SEARCH: Guhpobrake
Click to expand...

Haha. Yes, my attention has wandered as well. I occasionally check back to see if/how I can update the OP to keep the information relevant. That is, if people even read the op, right?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Heres the picture of my monitor. I think it may be originally glossy. I can't tell if it is or glass over gloss. Even by pressing the surface I can't tell.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The glass is pretty thick I was surprised. Like 3/16" maybe. You should be able to tell if its glass. If its gloss the screen will dent in a little when you press it.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> The glass is pretty thick I was surprised. Like 3/16" maybe. You should be able to tell if its glass. If its gloss the screen will dent in a little when you press it.


Thats the only way? I don't wanna damage this thing man.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> The glass is pretty thick I was surprised. Like 3/16" maybe. You should be able to tell if its glass. If its gloss the screen will dent in a little when you press it.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the only way? I don't damage this thing man.
Click to expand...

Thats not the only way I'm just saying it seems like it should be failry easy to tell. You know when you touch an lcd screen and it does that blur effect like water or whatever. If its glass it won't do that. Really don't think you will hurt it by doing that but by all means don't mess it up on my account.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

The Tempered glass is thick and it wont damage your screen if you press it. I know because i just removed the front bezel out of curiosity.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

I touched and it doesn't distort. I have glass with gloss.

Well I actually do have image retention at 120hz. 110hz is fine which is weird. I guess I'm going to have to stay at 96hz for the lack of these artifacts, and the slightly better colors. Its too bad that I can actually see the difference between 120hz and 96hz. Not so much between 110 and 120Hz.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> The Tempered glass is thick and it wont damage your screen if you press it. I know because i just removed the front bezel out of curiosity.


Third time i have asked on here but no one seems to answer can you put the tempered glass back on if you choose or is it off for good once it's off?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Third time i have asked on here but no one seems to answer can you put the tempered glass back on if you choose or is it off for good once it's off?


The tempered glass is literally a piece of glass that sits in front of the panel mounted in the bezel. It is not molded onto it or somehow part of the panel itself so YES you can. Had you removed the bezel you would have easily became aware of this.

Sometimes it takes a few times when asking an obvious question.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Third time i have asked on here but no one seems to answer can you put the tempered glass back on if you choose or is it off for good once it's off?


Just glue it back there? Not exactly hard lol


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Pretty sure you need an active display port to dvi adapter. But someone else can confirm.


Thanks for the info. So just something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/170964702256?lpid=82

Can anyone confirm? I was under the impression this monitor was finicky about using non-DVI connections?

Also, if it matters, I don't care about OC (I can't tell a difference between 60hz and 96hz tbh, and no way would my single 780 run that high FPS on three 1440s anyway).

Thanks.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> The tempered glass is literally a piece of glass that sits in front of the panel mounted in the bezel. It is not molded onto it or somehow part of the panel itself so YES you can. Had you removed the bezel you would have easily became aware of this.
> 
> Sometimes it takes a few times when asking an obvious question.


No need for the attitude, i have taken it apart, wasn't looking at that stage to see how the glass was connected. I have seen plenty of stupider questions on here that i have replied to with out the ****iness.


----------



## maka12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Try my profile. It's also 6500k but the white is a lot more whiter than in any of the profiles on the front page. I also found the profiles on the front page rather yellow and mine is quite different and worked for quite a few so far. Give it a shot at least.
> 
> QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> And sorry for the double post.. Was browsing through the posts and didn't realize I was replying to the same guy in two different posts... Should probably get some sleep sometimes too


thanks this profile is the best one for my xstar at 96hz tried about 15 like this one best blacks are better
maka


----------



## romboy

QNIX QX2710 Evolution II how do you get your stock Hz profile back?


----------



## romboy

all set found how 2 go back stock


----------



## romboy

Every time i clock up monitor 2 75HZ OR 96HZ my computer every now and than seems 2 get a bunch of lines in it i have 2 restart computer 2 fix it because i cant see whats on the screen.It does not seem 2 do it in games ?


----------



## semajha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> why u guys want to remove the glass? since its matte underneath, just order a matte will do no?
> 
> even if for debezel, a pure matte/glossy without the glass is easier right? confused


Well the good thing about the tempered displays is that they're usually priced the same as matte and sometimes gloss. I've even seen some tempered display models for a little cheaper. In that case if you're being indecisive on whether to get a tempered glass or regular, you can just buy the tempered version for the same price and if you decide not to like it, you can remove the glass.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> Well the good thing about the tempered displays is that they're usually priced the same as matte and sometimes gloss. I've even seen some tempered display models for a little cheaper. In that case if you're being indecisive on whether to get a tempered glass or regular, you can just buy the tempered version for the same price and if you decide not to like it, you can remove the glass.


And I ordered Glossy version which had the glass and was still Glossy underneath the glass, so not every display is matte underneath.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Whats the difference between setting the timings in CRU in comparison to setting them in the nvidia control panel. I believe I may be able to set some manual timings and achieve 120hz without artifacts. I can run 115hz without it... Would this be possible?

Well it looks like that CRU doesn't do the enforcing but the Nvidia control panels. I copied the reduced setting that was created in CRU into the nvidia control panel and boom, I got 120hz without any artifacts!


----------



## mboner1

Well i just removed the tempered glass and it's definitely glossy underneath as well. Mine was bought from accessorieswhole, put the tempered glass back on and couldn't be happier!!! So people need to stop with the crap that tempered= matte! Quite a few of us now have tempered with glossy. It's a 50/50 chance.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Well i just removed the tempered glass and it's definitely glossy underneath as well. Mine was bought from accessorieswhole, put the tempered glass back on and couldn't be happier!!! So people need to stop with the crap that tempered= matte! Quite a few of us now have tempered with glossy. It's a 50/50 chance.


Wait you put it back on? Why do that, doesn't it lose some clarity?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Wait you put it back on? Why do that, doesn't it lose some clarity?


Nope.


----------



## Stige

But there is no benefit in having the glass on either really. So why have it at all?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> But there is no benefit in having the glass on either really. So why have it at all?


I see zero benefit in taking it off unless it's matte underneath. If i wanted just glossy i would have looked for just glossy. I wanted glossy + tempered glass because i think it looks better.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I see zero benefit in taking it off unless it's matte underneath. If i wanted just glossy i would have looked for just glossy. I wanted glossy + tempered glass because i think it looks better.


A glass won't exactly enhance the picture lol, no way can a glass in front of your display improve anything you see tbh.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> A glass won't exactly enhance the picture lol, no way can a glass in front of your display improve anything you see tbh.


That's your opinion. Mine is that it does exactly that. Why do they put glass on high end big screen tv's if it's so "lol" worthy? It looks better to me with it than without it.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> A glass won't exactly enhance the picture lol, no way can a glass in front of your display improve anything you see tbh.
> 
> 
> 
> Why do they put glass on high end big screen tv's if it's so "lol" worthy? It looks better to me with it than without it.
Click to expand...

Word


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Well it's official I can't go above 60hz on my new 290x.

Either something is wrong with my new 290x or my monitor is going bad. or... Idk but I'm going insane trying to make it all work. tried running the video card at completely stock and it still screws up with anything past 60hz. Tried both dvi ports on the video card.

edit: screw up means all kinds of colors/lines etc.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Well it's official I can't go above 60hz on my new 290x.
> 
> Either something is wrong with my new 290x or my monitor is going bad. or... Idk but I'm going insane trying to make it all work. tried running the video card at completely stock and it still screws up with anything past 60hz. Tried both dvi ports on the video card.
> 
> edit: screw up means all kinds of colors/lines etc.


Question - do you have your previous GPU that was able to over clock the refresh rate handy still? Can you give that a try? Were you at any time able to over clock the refresh rate with the 290X?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Question - do you have your previous GPU that was able to over clock the refresh rate handy still? Can you give that a try? Were you at any time able to over clock the refresh rate with the 290X?


I don't I sold my 7950's to pay for this









I don't think I ever had the 290x set to more than 60hz since i've been basically building a new rig lately (just got it completely finished 2 hours ago)

So maybe my 290x and my monitor just aren't cooperating? I had no issues running 110hz on my 7950's (either one)


----------



## Selquist979

Have been thinking about grabbing an X-Star dp2710 matte. Thing that i'm wondering about is gaming on it with a 2GB card. I'm not expecting to max out many games @1440 with a 770 but am wondering what kind of performance can I expect? I have watched a few bench vids with the 770 @1440 and they are all over the place with results(different testers and way diff numbers)


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Well it's official I can't go above 60hz on my new 290x.
> 
> Either something is wrong with my new 290x or my monitor is going bad. or... Idk but I'm going insane trying to make it all work. tried running the video card at completely stock and it still screws up with anything past 60hz. Tried both dvi ports on the video card.
> 
> edit: screw up means all kinds of colors/lines etc.


What do you mean it won't work at higher frequencies? Like what on the monitor happens?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Selquist979*
> 
> Have been thinking about grabbing an X-Star dp2710 matte. Thing that i'm wondering about is gaming on it with a 2GB card. I'm not expecting to max out many games @1440 with a 770 but am wondering what kind of performance can I expect? I have watched a few bench vids with the 770 @1440 and they are all over the place with results(different testers and way diff numbers)


I have a 680 classified hydro copper which has similar performance to a 770 and I can run most games on high settings at 50-70fps.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't I sold my 7950's to pay for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think I ever had the 290x set to more than 60hz since i've been basically building a new rig lately (just got it completely finished 2 hours ago)
> 
> So maybe my 290x and my monitor just aren't cooperating? I had no issues running 110hz on my 7950's (either one)


My 290 doesn't detect it on start up, i think it had more trouble on the 13.11 beta 9.5 than beta 9.4 so i switched back. I think it's a driver issue in conjunction with the new cards, are you running windows 8.1 by any chance?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> My 290 doesn't detect it on start up, i think it had more trouble on the 13.11 beta 9.5 than beta 9.4 so i switched back. I think it's a driver issue in conjunction with the new cards, are you running windows 8.1 by any chance?


i am on 8.1, and I am running beta 9.5 I think. You saying that is the issue? What do you mean it doesn't "detect it" ?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> i am on 8.1, and I am running beta 9.5 I think. You saying that is the issue? What do you mean it doesn't "detect it" ?


Same as me except you have the x. I have to right click the desktop then go screen resolution hit detect then go >advanced settings>monitor and it shows up.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

my custom resolution shows up in the AMD control panel but i have to select it every time i reboot. that's annoying but the real problem is when i go to play a game, i get all kinds of distortion like colored lines and it looks like i'm on an acid trip.

this doesnt happen at 60hz


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> my custom resolution shows up in the AMD control panel but i have to select it every time i reboot. that's annoying but the real problem is when i go to play a game, i get all kinds of distortion like colored lines and it looks like i'm on an acid trip.


Yeah, mine shows up in ccc as well, and i have to re select it every reboot. I spoke to that toastyx dude who created cru i think on a different website and he just said it must be a driver issue with 8.1 and the new amd drivers. Here it is actually..

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Windows-not-applying-overclock-at-startup-QNIX2710

Here's a list of what i tried to fix it, my advice would be don't waste your time and just remember to detect it yourself, it's not worth the hassle lol..

Tried re installing r9 290 bios, tried re formatting, re installed patcher countless times, tried a qnix edid i found online not sure if i installed it correctly, tried installing windows in mbr and gpt mode with uefi and without. Tried forcerefresh and similar programs, tried both bios switches on card and both dvi ports (both of which are supposedly dual dvi- gigabyte r9 290) . Tried reverting back to amd beta 13.11 beta 9.4 which it worked with previously but not anymore and tried the latest whql driver. Only thing i haven't done is revert back to windows 7 64 bit. Out of ideas.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yeah, mine shows up in ccc as well, and i have to re select it every reboot. I spoke to that toastyx dude who created cru i think on a different website and he just said it must be a driver issue with 8.1 and the new amd drivers. Here it is actually..
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Windows-not-applying-overclock-at-startup-QNIX2710
> 
> Here's a list of what i tried to fix it, my advice would be don't waste your time and just remember to detect it yourself, it's not worth the hassle lol..
> 
> Tried re installing r9 290 bios, tried re formatting, re installed patcher countless times, tried a qnix edid i found online not sure if i installed it correctly, tried installing windows in mbr and gpt mode with uefi and without. Tried forcerefresh and similar programs, tried both bios switches on card and both dvi ports (both of which are supposedly dual dvi- gigabyte r9 290) . Tried reverting back to amd beta 13.11 beta 9.4 which it worked with previously but not anymore and tried the latest whql driver. Only thing i haven't done is revert back to windows 7 64 bit. Out of ideas.


my issue is the distrortion idc if i have to select it at boot that is a minor inconvenience.

I'm wondering if my monitor can no longer do over 60hz or if my new 500$ video card can't do over 60hz.

I'm using the same cru settings for 110hz I was on my 7950's so that should be fine.

I doubt the monitor has gone bad since ive barely used it. Sold my 7950's so I had no way of even using it till last week and i've been busy studying for school and rebuilding my rig and setting up a water loop so I haven't tried it alot till today. I played some bf4 on 60hz the other day all was fine.

i'll reinstall beta4 and try that. I think im on beta 5 but im not even sure.

so I guess all I can do is reinstall beta 4 (if i'm past that) and get my friends computer with my old 670 in it to see if that works. That way I can rule out the monitor or the video card. This sucks big time.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> my issue is the distrortion idc if i have to select it at boot that is a minor inconvenience.
> 
> I'm wondering if my monitor can no longer do over 60hz or if my new 500$ video card can't do over 60hz.
> 
> I'm using the same cru settings for 110hz I was on my 7950's so that should be fine.
> 
> I doubt the monitor has gone bad since ive barely used it. Sold my 7950's so I had no way of even using it till last week and i've been busy studying for school and rebuilding my rig and setting up a water loop so I haven't tried it alot till today. I played some bf4 on 60hz the other day all was fine.
> 
> i'll reinstall beta4 and try that. I think im on beta 5 but im not even sure.
> 
> so I guess all I can do is reinstall beta 4 (if i'm past that) and get my friends computer with my old 670 in it to see if that works. That way I can rule out the monitor or the video card. This sucks big time.


Yeah , i would try different drivers and the big fix that would probably work would be to go back to windows 7, guess it just depends how dedicated to windows 8 you are and how much crap you would lose by doing it.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yeah , i would try different drivers and the big fix that would probably work would be to go back to windows 7, guess it just depends how dedicated to windows 8 you are and how much crap you would lose by doing it.


i dont think 8.1 is causing my monitor to display all the crazy distortion, It might be the cause of having to select the stuff at boot.

I'm really afraid it is my video card or monitor that isnt capable of over 60hz.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> i dont think 8.1 is causing my monitor to display all the crazy distortion, It might be the cause of having to select the stuff at boot.
> 
> I'm really afraid it is my video card or monitor that isnt capable of over 60hz.


Are you running any monitoring software? I have found hwinfo caused wierd issues on 8.1 and core temp on my girlfriends computer with win 8.1 had issues. I think it's 8.1 and the amd drivers. I also have a memory leak going on as well, there's a heap of little issues on 8.1. Like you said, you know the monitor can do 110hz or whatever you get, and there is no reason the gpu shouldn't be able to do it.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Are you running any monitoring software? I have found hwinfo caused wierd issues on 8.1 and core temp on my girlfriends computer with win 8.1 had issues. I think it's 8.1 and the amd drivers. I also have a memory leak going on as well, there's a heap of little issues on 8.1. Like you said, you know the monitor can do 110hz or whatever you get, and there is no reason the gpu shouldn't be able to do it.


I usually run msi afterburner, and have been running asus gpu tweak some times also.

I ran amd driver uninstaller, reinstalled 13.11 beta 9.4 and still have the same issue.

I can try without them but I doubt it's causing this:


----------



## mboner1

Yeah, that don't look good. I wouldn't rule out driver issues and windows 8.1 tho. Are you able to try windows 7 on another hard drive or something?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yeah, that don't look good. I wouldn't rule out driver issues and windows 8.1 tho. Are you able to try windows 7 on another hard drive or something?


I mean I guess I could, but I really think my next step is to get my friends computer like I said, and try with another video card.

I have this terrible feeling that my video card is to blame. I will be really happy if it isn't just my card/monitor.

It's really odd to me that it works fine at 60hz though, if the card was actually screwed up i'd expect it to screw up at any refresh but idk.

Your card/monitor don't have any distortion issues mboner? What settings you running in cru?

I'm back on my laptop or i'd take a screenshot but I'm running

48 2
32 3
12 1

sorry I forget if left is back porch or front porch or whatever. I honestly know exactly 0 about what front/back porch do but those are the settings someone posted here at some point for 120hz and I always used them just fine @ 110hz on my 7950's


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I mean I guess I could, but I really think my next step is to get my friends computer like I said, and try with another video card.
> 
> I have this terrible feeling that my video card is to blame. I will be really happy if it isn't just my card/monitor.


Well i know my issues with detection started once i switched from windows 7 to win 8.1, i know it's different to what your getting but it's clearly having a impact on something. Upto you whether you try it out or not. If mine was like that i think i would give it a go.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Well i know my issues with detection started once i switched from windows 7 to win 8.1, i know it's different to what your getting but it's clearly having a impact on something. Upto you whether you try it out or not. If mine was like that i think i would give it a go.


you have a point because he has a 670 and he is running windows 7, so I won't actually know if it was 8.1 or my video card if I use his machine to test. My card is waterblocked so I can't even just stick it in his rig to test it either


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> you have a point because he has a 670 and he is running windows 7, so I won't actually know if it was 8.1 or my video card if I use his machine to test. My card is waterblocked so I can't even just stick it in his rig to test it either


Well let me know how it goes if you do try it out, would be intersted to know myself.


----------



## the9quad

Did ya patch the driver and set a custom res in cru? I've uninstalled drivers about a hundred times with a290x and. 8.1 and it works every time


----------



## xNiNELiVES

1. Set the custom refresh rate using CRU.
2. Restart your computer
3. Set your refresh rate in your AMD control panel or CCC or whatever its called (I'm an Nvidia guy).

If this doesn't work I don't know what would...


----------



## Hardrock

Guys New egg has a great Shell Shocker deal on a 4 port USB 3.0 hub, 78% off @ $12.00 and free shipping. Personally I am gonna stick one on the back of my Qnix monitor so I have some USB ports in close reach.

Check it out,

http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-17-195-001-_-12152013_5

I picked up this USB 3.0 Extension cable for it:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812422972

Total Bill was $17.45


----------



## paulkon

Has anyone considered not overclocking these because the color and brightness variation is very apparent when I measure it with my colorimeter. I've been running it at 96 hz for about 3 months now and I notice the monitor drifting from the calibration within 2 weeks.

Before that I ran it at 120 hz for 1 month and I had to recalibrate at the and of the week. I ran the exact same experiment on my other 2 qnixes all purchased from separate sellers and I've observed the same thing.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Its colors are gradually washed out?


----------



## lightsout

My monitor hit oakland, ca friday night, departed saturday morning at 1am and has seen no activity since. Hopefully its just because of the weekend. Still scheduled for tuesday was hoping it would show up a day early.


----------



## LotionExplosion

When I turn the monitor on, it cycles through red and green colors really fast. This only happens when I kill all the power to the monitor. If I turn it off via the power button and then turn it back on later, it doesn't go red/green. I was wondering if killing all the power to the monitor is harmful to it at all? Reason I ask is because all of my monitors are connected to a power bar, and its much easier to turn the power bar off at night instead of each monitor individually.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Has anyone considered not overclocking these because the color and brightness variation is very apparent when I measure it with my colorimeter. I've been running it at 96 hz for about 3 months now and I notice the monitor drifting from the calibration within 2 weeks.
> 
> Before that I ran it at 120 hz for 1 month and I had to recalibrate at the and of the week. I ran the exact same experiment on my other 2 qnixes all purchased from separate sellers and I've observed the same thing.


This is really odd.. The colors change over time? It makes me kind of worried about running this in constant overclock.


----------



## cloudbuster

So the ones that say SLIM are the same as those that don't say it?
Also it have to be single DVI to overclock? So if it say DVI-D don't even look at it.

I looked the FAQ but that not there.
Thanks.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Did ya patch the driver and set a custom res in cru? I've uninstalled drivers about a hundred times with a290x and. 8.1 and it works every time


yes


----------



## TelFiRE

I have searched this thread extensively and can't find an answer, so I'm going to ask again. Thanks very much in advance to anyone who can help.

I want to run three Qnix 27 inchers at 1440 off my single GTX 780 in nvidia surround. I do not care about overclocking the monitor, 60hz is fine. I have 2 DVI, 1 HDMI, and 1 Display-Port. What do I need in order to plug the third monitor into one of the non-DVI ports? (I assume I can't plug it into my motherboard's and still have it run properly?) I have seen some saying it will work only with some $80 adapter? If so, can you link me to a good one? Or if that's just in order to get the 120hz, I'd like to run at 60hz for cheaper if possible.

Please let me know, and thanks a bunch!


----------



## wabak

Mines has been in Japan since the 13th, and another update on the 14th saying it was still in Japan.

The expected date is Tuesday, so hopefully it still manages to arrive by then.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Mines been 20min away since Saturday morning 6am. If they don't deliver it till tomorrow I'll be pissed.


----------



## m3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> When I turn the monitor on, it cycles through red and green colors really fast. This only happens when I kill all the power to the monitor. If I turn it off via the power button and then turn it back on later, it doesn't go red/green. I was wondering if killing all the power to the monitor is harmful to it at all? Reason I ask is because all of my monitors are connected to a power bar, and its much easier to turn the power bar off at night instead of each monitor individually.
> This is really odd.. The colors change over time? It makes me kind of worried about running this in constant overclock.


My xstar cycles through colours at the start and end aswell, seems normal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Has anyone considered not overclocking these because the color and brightness variation is very apparent when I measure it with my colorimeter. I've been running it at 96 hz for about 3 months now and I notice the monitor drifting from the calibration within 2 weeks.
> 
> Before that I ran it at 120 hz for 1 month and I had to recalibrate at the and of the week. I ran the exact same experiment on my other 2 qnixes all purchased from separate sellers and I've observed the same thing.


What kind of recalibration did you perform and how is the overclock actually affecting the displays? is it getting brighter, darker, contrast change, colour distortion?


----------



## wabak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Mines been 20min away since Saturday morning 6am. If they don't deliver it till tomorrow I'll be pissed.


Can't you go pick it up? haha.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

so for those of you on windows 8.1 with a 290/290x can you overclock past 60hz?

I'm trying to figure out if my distortion problem is just me or others aswell. I've tried every driver including the last whql and keep getting this same screen over 60hz. Some times it works fine for a minute depending on the game, then this happens. I'm not sure if it is my card, monitor, windows 8.1, amd drivers or a combination of all of the above.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> so for those of you on windows 8.1 with a 290/290x can you overclock past 60hz?
> 
> I'm trying to figure out if my distortion problem is just me or others aswell. I've tried every driver including the last whql and keep getting this same screen over 60hz. Some times it works fine for a minute depending on the game, then this happens. I'm not sure if it is my card, monitor, windows 8.1, amd drivers or a combination of all of the above.


You know my story. Have you checked memory usage? I have had a couple of red screens from gaming because of a memory leak. I doubt it would cause that but is a possibility.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wabak*
> 
> Can't you go pick it up? haha.


Lol they won't let me. Anyways it's out for delivery. Should be here within the next hour or two since they come early in my area


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> You know my story. Have you checked memory usage? I have had a couple of red screens from gaming because of a memory leak. I doubt it would cause that but is a possibility.


issue seems to be I needed to enable "gpu scaling" in CCC.

Odd, I think I never needed it with my 7950's


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> issue seems to be I needed to enable "gpu scaling" in CCC.
> 
> Odd, I think I never needed it with my 7950's


Ah, yep! ****, sorry man, i had the same problem when i tried to run 3dmark11 and it was trying to run @ 1200x 720 or whatever res it runs at. I could have saved you a lot of time if i had remembered lol. My bad.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Has anyone tried cleaning this monitors screen because I have and it was a terrible experience lasting 20 min?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Ah, yep! ****, sorry man, i had the same problem when i tried to run 3dmark11 and it was trying to run @ 1200x 720 or whatever res it runs at. I could have saved you a lot of time if i had remembered lol. My bad.


Don't worry didn't fix it anyway I thought it did.

it seems I can either overclock the video card, OR the monitor. If I do both I get those screens. Don't ask me what is going on but I am about to sell this 290x and buy a 780ti


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Has anyone tried cleaning this monitors screen because I have and it was a terrible experience lasting 20 min?


What do you mean?
What'd you clean it with


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Don't worry didn't fix it anyway I thought it did.
> 
> it seems I can either overclock the video card, OR the monitor. If I do both I get those screens. Don't ask me what is going on but I am about to sell this 290x and buy a 780ti


Well at least now is your chance







Just sold another one of my 7950's for 430.00 so you'll get more than you paid for your 290x









What will suck is if you have the same issue with the 780ti


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> What do you mean?
> What'd you clean it with


Well when you get the monitor in it won't be the cleanest thing in the world or maybe it was just me. But eventually when it gets smudged you're going to want to clean it. I used Windex and it was the worst idea of all time. I used a different glass cleaning detergent. This with paper towels and a LOT of pressure.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Well when you get the monitor in it won't be the cleanest thing in the world or maybe it was just me. But eventually when it gets smudged you're going to want to clean it. I used Windex and it was the worst idea of all time. I used a different glass cleaning detergent. This with paper towels and a LOT of pressure.


Whoa lol I have special monitor cleaner I use. Winded has ammonia so not really a good idea to use


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Well when you get the monitor in it won't be the cleanest thing in the world or maybe it was just me. But eventually when it gets smudged you're going to want to clean it. I used Windex and it was the worst idea of all time. I used a different glass cleaning detergent. This with paper towels and a LOT of pressure.


Haha, you should just use a screen cleaning cloth.

Even something crappy like this..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-Microfiber-Screen-Lens-Glasses-Sunglasses-Eyewear-Cleaning-Cloths-Wipe-/221051366188


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Windex smears like a mofo.

I don't know about these other screen cleaning cloths... This thing was like 90 times harder to clean than any iPhone or something within this realm.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Well at least now is your chance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just sold another one of my 7950's for 430.00 so you'll get more than you paid for your 290x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What will suck is if you have the same issue with the 780ti


Why are they selling for so much atm????


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Why are they selling for so much atm????


These crazy Litecoin miners are buying up all the GPU's and created a shortage. The AMD gpu's are especially profitable with mining so they are in crazy demand. I have made more money back than the amount I purchased new from my collection of 7970's and 7950's. It paid for my tri-fire 290 setup and 4820k cpu!!!!


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> These crazy Litecoin miners are buying up all the GPU's and created a shortage. The AMD gpu's are especially profitable with mining so they are in crazy demand. I have made more money back than the amount I purchased new from my collection of 7970's and 7950's. It paid for my tri-fire 290 setup and 4820k cpu!!!!


Haha, well that sucks, i just missed out, sold my 7970 a fortnight ago. Might advertise my 290 for a silly price and see if i get any bites lol.

edit: Advertised on ebay for $600 auction and $800 buy it now lol. Let's see how serious these miners are lol.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Haha, well that sucks, i just missed out, sold my 7970 a fortnight ago. Might advertise my 290 for a silly price and see if i get any bites lol.
> 
> edit: Advertised on ebay for $600 auction and $800 buy it now lol. Let's see how serious these miners are lol.


LOL! It's worth a shot, they are on Amazon for $899.99!!!!!!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

im about to list my 290x. i can sell the waterblock on here pretty easily I'll bet.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> LOL! It's worth a shot, they are on Amazon for $899.99!!!!!!


Really?? Haha, i just revised it to more realistic $550 auction price and $720 buy it now. Ah well, see how it plays out lol. I haven't been backwards about why the price is high either lol.


----------



## the9quad

All I had to do was install cats, run the patcher reboot. Run cru set my 120hz make it the top resolution. Reboot. When I rebooted I was 120 hz.

Windows 8.1 same procedure worked for whql's and betas.

Worked about 30 times every time doing it this way.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> All I had to do was install cats, run the patcher reboot. Run cru set my 120hz make it the top resolution. Reboot. When I rebooted I was 120 hz.
> 
> Windows 8.1 same procedure worked for whql's and betas.
> 
> Worked about 30 times every time doing it this way.


Just finished watching Eastbound and down. All 4 seasons lol. + rep to you... Although i am acting like more of a prick because of kenny powers lol.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Damn just got this baby in.

:O 120hz is perfect. no blacklight bleed...

Am I lucky? lol


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Really?? Haha, i just revised it to more realistic $550 auction price and $720 buy it now. Ah well, see how it plays out lol. I haven't been backwards about why the price is high either lol.


Yea that should definitely sell I would think LOL


----------



## amorello

Hello guys, I just purchased an Asus VG248QE but now I am thinking of returning it and making a 1440p monitor purchase, it just doesn't feel that much of a jump versus my old monitor.
Why should I go with something like Qnix or X-Star over Dell or Asus ones? Can the Dell and Asus OC like korean PLS?
The input lag and quality, overall performance of a Qnix compare to lets say a Asus PB278Q?
I like the responsiveness of my VG248QE but it doesn't justify the price in my opinion, I want something more








Thank you


----------



## muscleking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Damn just got this baby in.
> 
> :O 120hz is perfect. no blacklight bleed...
> 
> Am I lucky? lol


mine is like that. 1 dead pixel close to the corner and no backlight bleed. dead pixel is the way to go.

overclock mine to 72hz just to be on the reliably side. but goes to 115hz stable. 120 works but reboot then no good had to reset. can't complain. great monitors.


----------



## dante`afk

I was just about to order a second Qnix in order to have also 120hz in window mode with a 120hz an 60hz dual screen setup while gaming. However, after doing some more testing with just one screen now (only the 120hz enabled), I see the same tearing with window mode as with 2 screens running. If I enable fullscreen it is gone and smoother than in window mode.

So, playing in window mode with a 120hz does not seem viable? Can anyone test it? I see the screen to be considerable smoother (particular in scrolling) if playing in fullscreen instead of window mode.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> mine is like that. 1 dead pixel close to the corner and no backlight bleed. dead pixel is the way to go.
> 
> overclock mine to 72hz just to be on the reliably side. but goes to 115hz stable. 120 works but reboot then no good had to reset. can't complain. great monitors.


Its awesome, I had a dell u2711 from Dell, it was nice but not like this !


----------



## Ovrclck

Hey guys, what's the best vesa single mount for the qnix?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> mine is like that. 1 dead pixel close to the corner and no backlight bleed. dead pixel is the way to go.
> 
> overclock mine to 72hz just to be on the reliably side. but goes to 115hz stable. 120 works but reboot then no good had to reset. can't complain. great monitors.


Overclock it to at least 96hz.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Okay so theres a tiny tiny "pressure spot" on it, cant notice it when sitting down and it might vanish, but otherwise it overclocks like a champ. Looks great and is very fluid.









now waiting till my other gtx770 comes in, that shipped out today


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Its awesome, I had a dell u2711 from Dell, it was nice but not like this !


Yep, i had the asus pb278q and it wasn't as good as this. I don't know why but these are better. Did you get tempered glass or matte?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yep, i had the asus pb278q and it wasn't as good as this. I don't know why but these are better. Did you get tempered glass or matte?


Matte actually, can barely tell it's on. The Matte finish on the Dell was horrendous.

Anyone know how to get 144hz to stick?

My monitor displays it


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Matte actually, can barely tell it's on. The Matte finish on the Dell was horrendous.
> 
> Anyone know how to get 144hz to stick?
> 
> My monitor displays it


Doubt your 144Hz OC is anywhere near stable on the Qnix. What timings and pixel clock are you using for 144Hz?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Doubt your 144Hz OC is anywhere near stable on the Qnix. What timings and pixel clock are you using for 144Hz?


Yeah, no you're right. It isn't stable I got ahead of myself, lol

I can confirm, 120hz is stable though I did the frame skip test with my SLR no skipped frames:thumb:


----------



## dante`afk

Can anyone confirm while gaming that his screen is smoother in fullscreen than playing in window mode?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Okay so anyone know why my monitor is artifacting when viewing full screen movies and games sometimes?

(like none at all in chrome or desktop)


----------



## dethypoo

Yes my gaming is smoother and FPS is higher while in full screen mode. When i switch games into window or border-less window to keep my custom icc colour profile, i lose about 20-30 fps.


----------



## TelFiRE

Can anyone state definitively what hardware is necessary in order to run one of these at 60Hz, 1440p through a HDMI or Display-Port connection?

Thanks very much.


----------



## semajha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Damn just got this baby in.
> 
> :O 120hz is perfect. no blacklight bleed...
> 
> Am I lucky? lol


lucky! congrats on your flawless, new display. mine is still chillin' in jung-gu icheon.... honestly, i'm starting to have doubts about this monitor. while it's good seeing people are getting their monitors without many issues, I somewhat have the feeling i'll be be the unlucky one. Seems like I always have some problems with any new gadget purchase... Keeping my fingers crossed.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Damn just got this baby in.
> 
> :O 120hz is perfect. no blacklight bleed...
> 
> Am I lucky? lol
> 
> 
> 
> lucky! congrats on your flawless, new display. mine is still chillin' in jung-gu icheon.... honestly, i'm starting to have doubts about this monitor. while it's good seeing people are getting their monitors without many issues, I somewhat have the feeling i'll be be the unlucky one. Seems like I always have some problems with any new gadget purchase... Keeping my fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

if you are declaring this, it will happen









Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Okay so anyone know why my monitor is artifacting when viewing full screen movies and games sometimes?
> 
> (like none at all in chrome or desktop)


Okay so lowered my pixel clock a tad and runnig 120hz without scan lines.

sweeet

and its not perfect, let me list why I think its A-

theres a couple tiny bruises (hard to find) in the monitor or dust I don't know... I think that's why it was declared A-

Otherwise I'm happy, you cannot get a perfect monitor of this size anyways, no matter if you go with Dell or Apple there's always something tiny wrong.

I had 4 replacements on my U2711 and still had bruises on one or a dead pixel on another... Lol if you're looking for perfection you won't find it


----------



## FatalProximity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Hello guys, I just purchased an Asus VG248QE but now I am thinking of returning it and making a 1440p monitor purchase, it just doesn't feel that much of a jump versus my old monitor.
> Why should I go with something like Qnix or X-Star over Dell or Asus ones? Can the Dell and Asus OC like korean PLS?
> The input lag and quality, overall performance of a Qnix compare to lets say a Asus PB278Q?
> I like the responsiveness of my VG248QE but it doesn't justify the price in my opinion, I want something more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you


I just went from the ASUS VG248QE to the QNIX and can say that it was very much worth the jump. I am not noticing the input lag of the QNIX but I am noticing quite a bit more ghosting. Regardless you definitely won't regret getting this, colors are outstanding if you're only used to tn panels.


----------



## Edgexcore

Just bought a X-Star on 12-15 from dream-seller on ebay. I will update here once I receive it!!!


----------



## lurker2501

My Qnix monitor randomly resets the frame-rate from 96 to 60 for no particular reason when watching a movie or playing games or even while on the desktop. Has somebody encountered the same issue? Does it mean the panel cannot hold the overclock?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatalProximity*
> 
> I am not noticing the input lag of the QNIX but I am noticing quite a bit more ghosting. Regardless you definitely won't regret getting this, colors are outstanding if you're only used to tn panels.


I also noticed some ghosting while playing WOW when strafing (left to right) on 60Hz.... It got lessen when i OC it to 96Hz.... I'm not sure the outcome if 120Hz due to my low power temporary GPU (GT 240) cannot save the new refresh rate profile above 96Hz... Soon i'll replace my GPU to a higher end. Still thinking what to buy until now...


----------



## lightsout

Mine is on the truck, but I just sold my gpu's so it will be a few days before I can test it.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Mine is on the truck, but I just sold my gpu's so it will be a few days before I can test it.


What GPU are you getting?

Im getting my second 770 on Wednesday, cant wait since one isnt really good enough for 120hz gaming at 1440p


----------



## lightsout

780 classy.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Mine is on the truck, but I just sold my gpu's so it will be a few days before I can test it.
> 
> 
> 
> What GPU are you getting?
> 
> Im getting my second 770 on Wednesday, cant wait since one isnt really good enough for 120hz gaming at 1440p
Click to expand...


----------



## MatthewK

Literally just got my X-star DP2710 less than an hour ago (bought it for $279 off eBay, non-pixel-perfect listing). Initial testing doesn't show any dead or stuck pixels so I'm really relieved about that, although those might possibly develop over time. Backlight bleed on the other hand does seem pretty bad along the bottom. I might consider doing the tapemod at some point because yeah it's pretty bad. It has a "tan" colored tint to it. Worst BLB in any monitor I've had before and I've owned a lot. 96Hz seems to be fine. Briefly tested 120Hz and it also seems fine, but I didn't do any extensive testing or anything.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This is why i kind of left this thread.
> 
> 1. good questions
> 2. good answers
> 3. TON OF SHIPPING COMMENTS
> 4. Same questions again
> 5. anyone who says "search gets trolled"
> 6. answer get re-answered
> 7. REPEAT (1100 pages worth)
> 
> Don't believe me search "front porch" and look at all the repeat situations. Then search "shipped" and see 800 of the 1100 pages pop up.
> 
> Honestly if you got rid of all the shipping comments and people refusing to read the thread could be maybe as little as 150-250 pages if that. You could fit all the good info into 15-20 pages which is guess is somewhat of the case for many threads but this one in particular is just rampant. I guess it is the nature of the product, its use and the majority of people it attracts to buy.
> 
> I do have some good info to add for guys running firefox and use the Qnix at 120hz.
> 
> A: Open a new tab
> B: Type "about:config" into the address bar(no quotes)
> C: Accept that if you just change crap that you don't know what it is and brake firefox it is your own ignorant fault.
> D: Search "layout.frame_rate"
> E: Right click and click modify
> F: Change this value to either your refresh rate of your monitor or exactly double it(i think it looks better doubled)
> G: Enjoy a good deal smoother page loading(at least on your eyes)
> 
> I have given some good, useful new information. And now for anyone who wants to find this info again after it gets lost in this threads repeat cycle you can SEARCH: Guhpobrake


this!


----------



## lurker2501

Anyone?


----------



## cloudbuster

So to over clock it need to have a single DVI plug or is to only have 1 input plug no matter the type.
Or all the version over clock no matter the connector?
Also the ones that say slim are thinner or the same?
Thanks.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> My Qnix monitor randomly resets the frame-rate from 96 to 60 for no particular reason when watching a movie or playing games or even while on the desktop. Has somebody encountered the same issue? Does it mean the panel cannot hold the overclock?


I haven't experienced this issue yet. What did you use to OC the monitor? I can think of things like: Patching the driver using ToastyX tool from http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher or using CRU instead of NVCP to add custom resolution or trying different drivers. Lastly i don't think this is a GPU issue unless you can test it with different GPU... or the issue is the Monitor itself? and i hope not...


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Okay so lowered my pixel clock a tad and runnig 120hz without scan lines.
> 
> sweeet
> 
> and its not perfect, let me list why I think its A-
> 
> theres a couple tiny bruises (hard to find) in the monitor or dust I don't know... I think that's why it was declared A-
> 
> Otherwise I'm happy, you cannot get a perfect monitor of this size anyways, no matter if you go with Dell or Apple there's always something tiny wrong.
> 
> I had 4 replacements on my U2711 and still had bruises on one or a dead pixel on another... Lol if you're looking for perfection you won't find it


Its sucks to get the bruises on your monitor... I guess I got really lucky.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Just finished watching Eastbound and down. All 4 seasons lol. + rep to you... Although i am acting like more of a prick because of kenny powers lol.


I saw the entire series also. Terrible terrible terrible ending...


----------



## jameyscott

Are there any Koreans that have multiple inputs, vesa mount, and overclockable to around 120hz? (Don't murder me for a question that has probably been asked a million times.)


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Its sucks to get the bruises on your monitor... I guess I got really lucky.


Yep haha I think i have had not one without a bruise of some sort. Seems matte just isn't that protected so they always get them. Literally my 7th matte one they all had it. Lol one reason why gloss is better


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Are there any Koreans that have multiple inputs, vesa mount, and overclockable to around 120hz? (Don't murder me for a question that has probably been asked a million times.)


Not possible. With that you need a scaler and that causes input lag which nullifies the ability to overclock.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Okay so lowered my pixel clock a tad and runnig 120hz without scan lines.
> 
> sweeet
> 
> and its not perfect, let me list why I think its A-
> 
> theres a couple tiny bruises (hard to find) in the monitor or dust I don't know... I think that's why it was declared A-
> 
> Otherwise I'm happy, you cannot get a perfect monitor of this size anyways, no matter if you go with Dell or Apple there's always something tiny wrong.
> 
> I had 4 replacements on my U2711 and still had bruises on one or a dead pixel on another... Lol if you're looking for perfection you won't find it


Funny you should mention 'bruises'

I think I have one on mine. Looks like a smudge on the glass but on the inside. Been thinking of removing the glass and checking it out. Could this be the case or is this on the panel itself?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatthewK*
> 
> Literally just got my X-star DP2710 less than an hour ago (bought it for $279 off eBay, non-pixel-perfect listing). Initial testing doesn't show any dead or stuck pixels so I'm really relieved about that, although those might possibly develop over time. Backlight bleed on the other hand does seem pretty bad along the bottom. I might consider doing the tapemod at some point because yeah it's pretty bad. It has a "tan" colored tint to it. Worst BLB in any monitor I've had before and I've owned a lot. 96Hz seems to be fine. Briefly tested 120Hz and it also seems fine, but I didn't do any extensive testing or anything.


Are u sure its not pls "shine" does it change when viewed from diffrent angles? If so from what i understand thats normal? Although i think shine is more of a silvery purple color. At least it is on mine. Id have to say the blacklevels arent as go as i hoped but are barable. My asus tn panel had aswome blacks.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Not possible. With that you need a scaler and that causes input lag which nullifies the ability to overclock.


I guess I'll be getting the Qnix, then. Unless someone can suggest another that overclocks well, similarly priced and has better colors/input lag.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Funny you should mention 'bruises'
> 
> I think I have one on mine. Looks like a smudge on the glass but on the inside. Been thinking of removing the glass and checking it out. Could this be the case or is this on the panel itself?


Panel itself. But sometimes these bruises get "relieved" so just leave it be and it will either go away or you'll forget about it


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Is there any extra customs cost/taxes for dream-sellers 27" X-Star coming to the US?

At $299 I am very very tempted to pick one up.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Nope no customs to the USA


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Nope no customs to the USA


Fantastic. Now to break it to the GF.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> Fantastic. Now to break it to the GF.


Always the hardest part lol


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> Fantastic. Now to break it to the GF.


If she supports your habit. Wife her.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Panel itself. But sometimes these bruises get "relieved" so just leave it be and it will either go away or you'll forget about it


I've had the monitor for a few months. I also bought it used so if it was going to go away it would have already.

Don't notice during gaming but surfing I do. Against a light background it shows up pretty well. Roughly an inch in diameter. Really looks like a smudge on the inside of the glass.


----------



## Hypknox

So about those custom charges to the US....

It took a bit but I actually just received a customs fee in the amount of $20.45.

This was from my Qnix ebay order through dream-seller.

dream-seller has been excellent to work with, but I did not expect this fee. His response was pretty much I have to take it up with FedEx revenue. Their response was you may want to check with the seller. I ended up having to return the monitor due to damages from shipping. I do not fault dream-seller for this, he's actually been pretty cool throughout the entire process.

*Has anyone experienced this and if so have you had any luck in getting the customs fee reimbursed?
My biggest fear at this point is now receiving another unexpected customs charge for the return shipment.*


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> If she supports your habit. Wife her.


What about if she just doesn't give a **** if you do it or not? lol, still wife her??


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I've had the monitor for a few months. I also bought it used so if it was going to go away it would have already.
> 
> Don't notice during gaming but surfing I do. Against a light background it shows up pretty well. Roughly an inch in diameter. Really looks like a smudge on the inside of the glass.


That's pretty big... Mines only about a couple cm in size. Maybe it's dust? Can you see it from any angle?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> Fantastic. Now to break it to the GF.
> 
> 
> 
> If she supports your habit. Wife her.
Click to expand...

Sig worthy.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Sig worthy.










One of the main reasons my wife is my wife is that she supports me in anything I do. Even spending thousands on computer parts.


----------



## wabak

As of 6am this morning, my monitor left India... for delivery today in Scotland... can't see it happening haha.

Some weird travel, Korea, China, Japan, China, India... UK next I hope!

Also, when you apply an ICC profile does it work within games? (fullscreen) or only on the desktop?


----------



## VindalooJim

Which is the best Korean monitor to go for? Which tend to have the better build quality (bezel and stand), which tend to be the best overclockers and which have the least backlight bleeding?

Also if anyone could name some reputable eBay sellers that they have bought from, it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## m3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> Which is the best Korean monitor to go for? Which tend to have the better build quality (bezel and stand), which tend to be the best overclockers and which have the least backlight bleeding?
> 
> Also if anyone could name some reputable eBay sellers that they have bought from, it would be greatly appreciated.


I got a X-star dp2710 from dream-seller.
The build quality is'nt great,the stand is wobbly and the bezel itself is bent outwards on the bottom,but these are minor problems for me.
Im running 96hz atm,seems fine..
Dream-seller is a good seller.He replies to your questions in proper english and checks the monitor before shipping you ask for it .


----------



## HardwareDecoder

@mboner1

It seems a reinstall of windows 8.1 fixed me up. Been playing batman for over an hour @110hz with 1200mhz on the 290x and nothing odd as happened. Fingers crossed tightly.


----------



## dante`afk

My screen got considerable brighter today after setting this here up:


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> @mboner1
> 
> It seems a reinstall of windows 8.1 fixed me up. Been playing batman for over an hour @110hz with 1200mhz on the 290x and nothing odd as happened. Fingers crossed tightly.


Good to hear man. Is it detecting the overclock at startup as well or just got rid of the awful display corruption you were getting??


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Good to hear man. Is it detecting the overclock at startup as well or just got rid of the awful display corruption you were getting??


Seems to select it at startup automatically so far.

I'm trying to do everything step by step so I can isolate any problems that might occur.

So far I just have drivers, arkham origins installed so I have a game to test with and msi afterburner for ocing/monitoring.

I've seen corruption when pushing the video card oc past 1200 but that is normal if it is unstable, I haven't seen that hideous brownish screen that kept popping up on any video card oc. Thank god, really hoping a reinstall fixed me up.


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3us*
> 
> I got a X-star dp2710 from dream-seller.
> The build quality is'nt great,the stand is wobbly and the bezel itself is bent outwards on the bottom,but these are minor problems for me.
> Im running 96hz atm,seems fine..
> Dream-seller is a good seller.He replies to your questions in proper english and checks the monitor before shipping you ask for it .


Thank you.
That doesn't sound too good, the stand and bezel would irritate me. How is the backlight bleeding on it?

I've noticed that 96Hz seems to be the overclock "sweet spot" for most of these Korean panels.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Seems to select it at startup automatically so far.
> 
> I'm trying to do everything step by step so I can isolate any problems that might occur.
> 
> So far I just have drivers, arkham origins installed so I have a game to test with and msi afterburner for ocing/monitoring.
> 
> I've seen corruption when pushing the video card oc past 1200 but that is normal if it is unstable, I haven't seen that hideous brownish screen that kept popping up on any video card oc. Thank god, really hoping a reinstall fixed me up.


I re installed about 10 times, like you i just kept doing the drivers slowly, and testing it. I think it might be the intel chipset drivers or intel inf drivers causing issues detecting it. It's weird but definitely a windows 8 issue i reckon, hopefully it just works for you now anyway.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

annnnd it happened again maybe my monitor has just burned out for over 60hz


----------



## mboner1

Ha! Well I just red screened again in bf4 and I'm in the process of re installing windows 7 again. Completely over it at this point, if this doesn't fix it the cards going back. I will let you know if windows 7 fixes any of the issues.


----------



## spiritfly

I'm really in a need of a good 27 inch monitors as I haven't upgraded since my dual 22 samsung 2232BW (yeah I know..)

I've found that the cheapest seller for X-Star is dream-seller and the cheapest for Qnix is excellentcastle. So according to the table of all members who bought from these sellers posted in the main post I've made this:

excellentcastle:

bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
gggggggg
ppppp

dream-seller:

bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbBbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
gggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg
pppppppppppppPpppPpPP

b - menas has some bleeding
g - perfect with no issues
p - stuck/dead pixel

Seems like the X-Star is more reliable than the Qnix at least when bought from the cheapest ebay sellers. This is the quickest summary I could come up with. What do you guys think?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> My screen got considerable brighter today after setting this here up:


How and where is that screen


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> annnnd it happened again maybe my monitor has just burned out for over 60hz


Well re-installing windows 7 has helped the detection issue, it detects it automatically every time now. Haven't fired up bf4 to see if it helps with red screens. Time will tell. How long ago did you switch graphics cards and how long have you been on win8?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Well re-installing windows 7 has helped the detection issue, it detects it automatically every time now. Haven't fired up bf4 to see if it helps with red screens. Time will tell. How long ago did you switch graphics cards and how long have you been on win8?


Okay so I've only seen that brown glitched screen once so far and I've been on since like 7am

I've tried metro last light, bf4, batman arkham origins, bioshock infinite all @ 1200 gpu clock/110hz refresh.

Hopefully that screen will just stay away!

I have had this 290x for like maybe 2 weeks? But I barely used it till recently since I was studying for finals (thank god, I barely passed anatomy and physiology with a 70.19% lol such a hard class. A bunch of people didn't even show up to the final.

I've been on windows 8.1 for awhile now but like I said I reinstalled today. custom refresh is set at boot every time for me. As long as that distortion crap stays away i'll be super happy


----------



## Face2Face

G-Sync and these monitors - gonna happen?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> G-Sync and these monitors - gonna happen?


I doubt it


----------



## m3us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> Thank you.
> That doesn't sound too good, the stand and bezel would irritate me. How is the backlight bleeding on it?
> 
> I've noticed that 96Hz seems to be the overclock "sweet spot" for most of these Korean panels.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> Thank you.
> That doesn't sound too good, the stand and bezel would irritate me. How is the backlight bleeding on it?
> 
> I've noticed that 96Hz seems to be the overclock "sweet spot" for most of these Korean panels.


The bezel problem is unnoticeable when seen from front anyway.The BLB is negligible ,i only see it if the room is dark and the brightness is highest..
I cant really comment on the 96hz since i just saw most of em running at it with less problems so i went for it.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Okay so I've only seen that brown glitched screen once so far and I've been on since like 7am
> 
> I've tried metro last light, bf4, batman arkham origins, bioshock infinite all @ 1200 gpu clock/110hz refresh.
> 
> Hopefully that screen will just stay away!
> 
> I have had this 290x for like maybe 2 weeks? But I barely used it till recently since I was studying for finals (thank god, I barely passed anatomy and physiology with a 70.19% lol such a hard class. A bunch of people didn't even show up to the final.
> 
> I've been on windows 8.1 for awhile now but like I said I reinstalled today. custom refresh is set at boot every time for me. As long as that distortion crap stays away i'll be super happy


Yeah i surprisingly really liked windows 8.1 as well, i wouldn't have persevered with it for so long if i hadn't but all the little issues just got the better of me in the end, and i really need to know if it's the gpu or windows 8.1 causing the red screen in bf4 cos i will be returning the gpu if that's the problem so looks like i'm stuck on windows 7 for awhile yet.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yeah i surprisingly really liked windows 8.1 as well, i wouldn't have persevered with it for so long if i hadn't but all the little issues just got the better of me in the end, and i really need to know if it's the gpu or windows 8.1 causing the red screen in bf4 cos i will be returning the gpu if that's the problem so looks like i'm stuck on windows 7 for awhile yet.


I have not had one red screen in BF4, just the distortion screens I was getting (hopefully gone now) But those had nothing to do with BF4 it's self i'm pretty sure.

heck BF4 hasn't even crashed for me in awhile.


----------



## Jetlitheone

If you guys are getting scan lines. Make sure you lower your pixel clock. Worked for me.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I have not had one red screen in BF4, just the distortion screens I was getting (hopefully gone now) But those had nothing to do with BF4 it's self i'm pretty sure.
> 
> heck BF4 hasn't even crashed for me in awhile.


Yeah quite a few people have said the same thing which makes me think i might have got a dud card. But everyone elses overclock was detected on win 8.1 as well except mine so i had some weird win 8 issues going on.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Yeah quite a few people have said the same thing which makes me think i might have got a dud card. But everyone elses overclock was detected on win 8.1 as well except mine so i had some weird win 8 issues going on.


got another screwed up screen, this one while playing bf4 I set res to 60 then back to 110 and it was fine. I think overclocking these monitors burns them out slowly.

I think i'll have to just run @ 60hz again pretty soon.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> got another screwed up screen, this one while playing bf4 I set res to 60 then back to 110 and it was fine. I think overclocking these monitors burns them out slowly.
> 
> I think i'll have to just run @ 60hz again pretty soon.


Are your timings automatic?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Are your timings automatic?


nope, these same settings were rock solid on my 7950's never once had display corruption. Now with this 290x it seems to happen a lot.

I don't think it is the 290x though. I'm gonna try LCD standard for awhile see if that works... I didn't even think of that till now thanks.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> nope, these same settings were rock solid on my 7950's never once had display corruption. Now with this 290x it seems to happen a lot.
> 
> I don't think it is the 290x though. I'm gonna try LCD standard for awhile see if that works... I didn't even think of that till now thanks.


I was running with lcd standard the whole time, seemed to lower the gpu clocks at idle where the other way didn't for me. Just played crysis 3 while i wait for bf4 to download again for about a hour with no issues, becoming more hopeful my issue was windows 8, real test will be bf4, i really don't want to have to return this card.

Just seeing that pic makes me miss windows 8.1 already







lol.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

yea running with lcd standard timings for 110hz didn't work, was getting those blue lines across the screen (the normal ones when pixel clock is too high)


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> That's pretty big... Mines only about a couple cm in size. Maybe it's dust? Can you see it from any angle?


Yeah. I can see it at any angle.


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> yea running with lcd standard timings for 110hz didn't work, was getting those blue lines across the screen (the normal ones when pixel clock is too high)


Are you remembering to copy the original monitor profile and just edit the refresh rate? Doing it in this manner made it work flawless on my 290. It seems like you're either using old profiles or a pre-defined one (such as LCD standard) as opposed to the stock one for the monitor.

The way to do this was to: Double-click the top-most detailed resolution (2560x1440 @ 59.950 Hz (241.50 MHz) [+/-]) Click copy.

Then click Add to add a new detailed resolution.

Now, in order to paste, CRU only allows you to do this when selecting Automatic - CRT Standard under the Timing drop down. From there paste your default profile and only change the Refresh rate to your desired frequency.

For example, here's a screenshot of my 96Hz Profile if you want to try these settings (I mostly use 120 though).


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> Are you remembering to copy the original monitor profile and just edit the refresh rate? Doing it in this manner made it work flawless on my 290. It seems like you're either using old profiles or a pre-defined one (such as LCD standard) as opposed to the stock one for the monitor.
> 
> The way to do this was to: Double-click the top-most detailed resolution (2560x1440 @ 59.950 Hz (241.50 MHz) [+/-]) Click copy.
> 
> Then click Add to add a new detailed resolution.
> 
> Now, in order to paste, CRU only allows you to do this when selecting Automatic - CRT Standard under the Timing drop down. From there paste your default profile and only change the Refresh rate to your desired frequency.
> 
> For example, here's a screenshot of my 96Hz Profile if you want to try these settings (I mostly use 120 though).


yeah that doesn't work I get lines on the screen cause the pixel clock is too high


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> yeah that doesn't work I get lines on the screen cause the pixel clock is too high


It makes no difference on mine (as it works exactly the same either way), but have you tried toggling the following in Catalyst Control Center [My Digital Flat-Panels] > [Properties (Digital Flat-panel)]

Reduce DVI frequency on high-resolution displays

Alternate DVI operational mode

Also make sure GPU scaling is off.

I find it strange that your monitor would work with your previous video card but not the 290x at overclocked refresh rates...


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> It makes no difference on mine (as it works exactly the same either way), but have you tried toggling the following in Catalyst Control Center [My Digital Flat-Panels] > [Properties (Digital Flat-panel)]
> 
> Reduce DVI frequency on high-resolution displays
> 
> Alternate DVI operational mode
> 
> Also make sure GPU scaling is off.
> 
> I find it strange that your monitor would work with your previous video card but not the 290x at overclocked refresh rates...


Everything makes a difference. Each monitor can only handle a specific pixel clock before you get blue lines etc, those settings I posted earlier worked great @ 110hz on my old video card. So either something is up with my 290x or the monitor has degraded.

here is what he said:

http://120hz.net/showthread.php?1410-Alternate-DVI-operational-mode

*These options aren't really documented, so I can only guess based on what I know.

"Reduce DVI frequency on high-resolution displays" probably has no effect on most monitors. Back when video cards, monitors, and cables could barely handle the full single-link DVI bandwidth, some people were having signal quality problems with 1600x1200 monitors like the Dell 2001FP. 1600x1200 @ 60 Hz without reduced blanking is close to the single-link DVI limit of 165 MHz, so that option would use the CVT reduced blanking standard to reduce the pixel clock to around 130 MHz to get a more stable signal, similar to how we reduce the timing parameters to get a better overclock. Nowadays, most LCD monitors use CVT reduced blanking by default (or EIA/CEA-861 for 1080p), so that option wouldn't have any effect. It should be left off so it doesn't mess with the timing parameters.

"Alternate DVI operational mode" is coherent mode, meaning the clock and data are synchronized. Originally, DVI was non-coherent because the clock multiplier caused a delay in the clock signal that needed to be compensated for at the receiving end. This caused problems when using longer cables because the length affected the delay. Nowadays, everything is designed to use coherent signals for better stability, so this option should be left on. It shouldn't be turned off unless you're using an older non-coherent display.*

So it seems I should not use reduce dvi frequency

What I really don't get is how changing video cards changes my max stable monitor OC. I mean aren't the video card and the monitor separate, all the vid card does is sends a signal to the monitor.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

What would be really awesome is if ToastyX could chime in and maybe point me in the direction of what is going in. I have very limited knowledge about what my actual issue could be. Is it likely my 290x is some how off? Or the monitor has degraded some?

Everything works flawlessly @ 60hz.

Like the settings I posted earlier came from Spartan F8 or someone else who actually has a clue about what all the numbers mean. They worked fine forever @ 110hz on my 7950's

If I tried to use the normal settings from my monitor and put 110hz I get blue lines because the pixel clock is too high or something.

I know plenty about oc'ing cpu's but not that much about monitors lol.

My recent problem is just getting random display corruption @ anything over 60hz with this new card.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> What would be really awesome is if ToastyX could chime in and maybe point me in the direction of what is going in. I have very limited knowledge about what my actual issue could be. Is it likely my 290x is some how off? Or the monitor has degraded some?
> 
> Everything works flawlessly @ 60hz.
> 
> Like the settings I posted earlier came from Spartan F8 or someone else who actually has a clue about what all the numbers mean. They worked fine forever @ 110hz on my 7950's
> 
> If I tried to use the normal settings from my monitor and put 110hz I get blue lines because the pixel clock is too high or something.
> 
> I know plenty about oc'ing cpu's but not that much about monitors lol.
> 
> My recent problem is just getting random display corruption @ anything over 60hz with this new card.


I know a few things









Honestly if you haven't changed anything from the last card to this one it is possible that the older card had better overclocking capabilities but i am very skeptical that is the case. I have seen it happen, my GTX770s in SLI overclocked better than my GTX780ti does.

The max pixel clock of the PCB of the Qnix is 450mhz. With that being said you should easily be able to do 72hz or 96hz with even stock timings. If your running fine at 60 but have issues past that then it sounds like implementation not capabilities.

I would start with some basics. Re-install drivers. Completely redo your CRU profiles. Try just LCD reduced before tinkering with the manual timings since LCD reduced for 96hz is well under the 450mhz ceiling. Also try different ports on your card as not all ports have the same overclockability(shown in my past posts). If your using the same cable it is probably OK but you never know, you could have kinked it or chipped the pins when swapping so the cable is a potential factor.

Also i would leave any voltage or timing effective driver level option default and stick with CRU. AMD drivers are known to be a bit flakky in between versions so i would leave it out and maybe even try an older driver set.

Lastly if you want ToastyX help direct try him on his thread. He is a bit easier to hail on his own turf.

Hope this helps and after some testing feel free to post results and seek more help.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I know a few things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly if you haven't changed anything from the last card to this one it is possible that the older card had better overclocking capabilities but i am very skeptical that is the case. I have seen it happen, my GTX770s in SLI overclocked better than my GTX780ti does.
> 
> The max pixel clock of the PCB of the Qnix is 450mhz. With that being said you should easily be able to do 72hz or 96hz with even stock timings. If your running fine at 60 but have issues past that then it sounds like implementation not capabilities.
> 
> I would start with some basics. Re-install drivers. Completely redo your CRU profiles. Try just LCD reduced before tinkering with the manual timings since LCD reduced for 96hz is well under the 450mhz ceiling. Also try different ports on your card as not all ports have the same overclockability(shown in my past posts). If your using the same cable it is probably OK but you never know, you could have kinked it or chipped the pins when swapping so the cable is a potential factor.
> 
> Also i would leave any voltage or timing effective driver level option default and stick with CRU. AMD drivers are known to be a bit flakky in between versions so i would leave it out and maybe even try an older driver set.
> 
> Lastly if you want ToastyX help direct try him on his thread. He is a bit easier to hail on his own turf.
> 
> Hope this helps and after some testing feel free to post results and seek more help.


things I've done so far:

1. reinstalled windows 8.1 and only installed drivers really
2. tried both dvi ports on the card.
3. tried lcd standard/monitor default/custom timings
4. tried w/ reduce dvi frequency
5. tried w/ reduce dvi frequency + alternate dvi mode
6. tried w/ alternate dvi mode
7. tried every single amd driver since the initial r290 release whql
8. with and without gpu scaling set

Where is Toasty's thread btw ? is it on OCN ?

Also did you see the pics I posted? this isn't normal pixel clock is too high blue lines or anything, this is total display corruption. Like crazy colors/brown block etc


----------



## Hardrock

Just got my monitor set up and all I can say is HOLY C$$AP this thing is beautiful. The resolution is absolutely absurd !!! I did a simple web based pixel test and I don't see any dead or stuck pixels. With an all black screen and a dark room I cant detect any black light bleed. I am very happy !!!!! Bye Bye 1080 SUCKERS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!









Bough it here for $ 325, pixel perfect SON !!!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321237632896&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120


----------



## spiritfly

Guys may I have your attention please??

I have a single Radeon 7800. I want to buy two possibly three of these. I guess I must use display port for the job and it seems I must buy the multi port version of it. I don't mind getting that as I don't plan to play games on it or watch movies, so I will be perfectly fine with stock 60Hz.

The question is: can I run 2 or 3 of these through display port on my single Radeon 7800 ?


----------



## sat1va

For you this model might not be the right fit, as it only has one dual dvi link cable and is quite fussy with even the cable that is used. Mine for example would not work with my own dual link dvi cable, i had to use the one provided. You would also have to daisy chain the monitors and use DVI - DP1.2 adapters so it could get messy.

What is your exact GPU model?


----------



## spiritfly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sat1va*
> 
> For you this model might not be the right fit, as it only has one dual dvi link cable and is quite fussy with even the cable that is used. Mine for example would not work with my own dual link dvi cable, i had to use the one provided. You would also have to daisy chain the monitors and use DVI - DP1.2 adapters so it could get messy.
> 
> What is your exact GPU model?


My GPU is: Saphire Radeon HD7870 GHz edition 2GB

It has a Single DVI, Dual DVI, HDMI and DP.

I know that getting two/three Qnix/X-Star's might not be the ideal for me. But since I'm not interested in overclocking it to 120Hz I was actually thinking about the multi-port versions:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/321151317895?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item4ac61c3787

OR

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DP-Multi-Matte-2560x1440-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-Monitor-/111231287794?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19e5e6c1f2

They both include DP, HDMI, DP, VGA.

As I understood by reading all those comments about them, it's impossible to clock them to 120Hz because of a different PCB or something. But since I don't mind them being 60Hz... I just need to know if I can run two or three of them on a single Display Port on my GPU?

But then on the other hand.. I wouldn't mind exploring the option of dual or triple 120Hz monitors on DVI







What would I have to do in this case?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> things I've done so far:
> 
> 1. reinstalled windows 8.1 and only installed drivers really
> 2. tried both dvi ports on the card.
> 3. tried lcd standard/monitor default/custom timings
> 4. tried w/ reduce dvi frequency
> 5. tried w/ reduce dvi frequency + alternate dvi mode
> 6. tried w/ alternate dvi mode
> 7. tried every single amd driver since the initial r290 release whql
> 8. with and without gpu scaling set
> 
> Where is Toasty's thread btw ? is it on OCN ?
> 
> Also did you see the pics I posted? this isn't normal pixel clock is too high blue lines or anything, this is total display corruption. Like crazy colors/brown block etc


Sounds to me like you might try popping your old video card in and see if that makes the difference. Also, anyone else here using this video card and having issues?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Sounds to me like you might try popping your old video card in and see if that makes the difference. Also, anyone else here using this video card and having issues?


sold them. and I only have access to an nvidia card. so I won't know if it was drivers or my card that is the issue


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> sold them. and I only have access to an nvidia card. so I won't know if it was drivers or my card that is the issue


That is true but if it does work you will narrow it down to either that AMD drivers or AMD video card.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

it must be the card then. others here with the same one claim no issues. I can't easily RMA either cause I have it waterblocked. I just don't get why it can't seem to do over 60. no access to a real 120 monitor to test either. looks like I'm stuck @ 60hz


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> it must be the card then. others here with the same one claim no issues. I can't easily RMA either cause I have it waterblocked


Try setting it to LCD reduced with the refresh still at 60hz just to see if it is timings jacked.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Try setting it to LCD reduced with the refresh still at 60hz just to see if it is timings jacked.


will do

I haven't had my whole screen change to crazy brown blocks recently like it had been, now everything just gets blurry if that means anything. Like i'll be running along fine @ 110 for a random amount of time then it gets blurry. If I set the res to 60, then back to 110 it's fine again for a bit. It makes no sense to me. The video card operates perfectly as far as I know.


----------



## Valesthesia

Hi,

I'm having some problems. I got a new PC recently but my old PC worked fine.

I have downloaded CRU and am attempting to change the settings. I don't know what I'm doing wrong but when I hit copy, there is never any paste option. I don't remember having such a simple problem before....

Either way, I manually put in the value of 120 MHz and the settings that were on the 60MHz profile and that worked. I tried to change it to LCD Standard and hit okay, but that settings would not save. Every time I open it up again it's back to Manual.

Finally, after reboot and such I cannot see anything beyond 60 MHz in nVidia control panel.

What the heck am I doing wrong?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> things I've done so far:
> 
> 1. reinstalled windows 8.1 and only installed drivers really
> 2. tried both dvi ports on the card.
> 3. tried lcd standard/monitor default/custom timings
> 4. tried w/ reduce dvi frequency
> 5. tried w/ reduce dvi frequency + alternate dvi mode
> 6. tried w/ alternate dvi mode
> 7. tried every single amd driver since the initial r290 release whql
> 8. with and without gpu scaling set
> 
> Where is Toasty's thread btw ? is it on OCN ?
> 
> Also did you see the pics I posted? this isn't normal pixel clock is too high blue lines or anything, this is total display corruption. Like crazy colors/brown block etc


Here's where i contacted him... http://www.monitortests.com/forum/

Remember to hit + rep


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Here's where i contacted him... http://www.monitortests.com/forum/
> 
> Remember to hit + rep


Funny thing is you can literally google ToastyX and find that forum.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Funny thing is you can literally google ToastyX and find that forum.


Haha, i don't get it?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Haha, i don't get it?


That's ok most people don't. but enough of these comments, they don' help.


----------



## Beat

Just got my Qnix 27' Matte and my word...what an AWESOME screen!! Can't stop looking at it, so smooth and crisp!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Haha, i don't get it?


he is saying I should have just googled it.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> he is saying I should have just googled it.


Have you got a hold of him yet? FTR all my issues have gone away since switching back to windows 7, no red screen in bf4 YET, and overclock on the monitor works fine, I did have some issues at first with massive stutter in bf4 and windows 7 but then i realized it's cos i have switched to a i7 4770k and windows 8 has unparked cores by default where you have to do it yourself in win 7. Was skeptical about that being the issue but it sorted it out straight away.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

na I don't care any more


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> he is saying I should have just googled it.


How did the test with reduced 60hz timings go? Also ToastyX may respond a bit quicker with a detailed PM of the situation and the troubleshooting you have done so far. With any of these guys(including me) you want to help them help you

(and my point wasn't to be derogatory in the fatc that you could have searched, it was that searching should be the default position and someone circumventing this by just posting a link "again" and then asking for rep was a bit ......)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> na I don't care any more


So you are going to stick with 60hz? Well you could always downsample







(of course that can be a pain with AMD too)


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> How did the test with reduced 60hz timings go? Also ToastyX may respond a bit quicker with a detailed PM of the situation and the troubleshooting you have done so far. With any of these guys(including me) you want to help them help you
> 
> (and my point wasn't to be derogatory in the fatc that you could have searched, it was that searching should be the default position and someone circumventing this by just posting a link "again" and then asking for rep was a bit ......)
> So you are going to stick with 60hz? Well you could always downsample
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (of course that can be a pain with AMD too)


Sorry for trying to help. Should have just done it like a smart ass like you


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Sorry for trying to help. Should have just done it like a smart ass like you


Yes i am a smart ass because i constantly try to tell people to go fishing rather than ask for a fish so they can be smart asses themselves. I simply try and push people not only in the right direction but also a bit towards helping themselves in the process. Also saying sorry for helping is just trying to setup a victimized outlook thus demonizing me, not appreciated, and doesn't help anyone. I just explained my comment that was all. Honestly this should have stopped with my original comment. Please PM me any more comments like this since it does not contribute to the thread.

On a better note i have gone through the thread and grabbed each of my more informative posts. So if anyone wants the downsampling instructions, timings optimizations, pros/cons, BLB fix, review posts PM me and i will forward them to you. I am not going to repost them though they are all in this thread like 3-4 times already.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> How did the test with reduced 60hz timings go? Also ToastyX may respond a bit quicker with a detailed PM of the situation and the troubleshooting you have done so far. With any of these guys(including me) you want to help them help you
> 
> (and my point wasn't to be derogatory in the fatc that you could have searched, it was that searching should be the default position and someone circumventing this by just posting a link "again" and then asking for rep was a bit ......)
> So you are going to stick with 60hz? Well you could always downsample
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (of course that can be a pain with AMD too)


I'm pretty sure for some reason whenever I overclock my video card it contributes to the problem.

Example: run video card @ 1200mhz @ 60hz refresh -- no problems
run video card @ 1000mhz(stock) @ 110hz -- pretty sure no problems
run video card @ 1200mhz @ 110hz -- all hell breaks loose.

So if my video card was oc was unstable, why does it work fine @ 60hz as far as I know. Shouldn't the video card oc have nothing to do with the refresh of the monitor? All it does is sends out a signal to be displayed by the monitor. Shouldn't I have issues @ 60hz? Since the video card core clock has nothing to do with the refresh rate of the monitor.

I haven't even confirmed fully yet the stock video card settings is stable w/ 110. I am working on that for the next few days and if nothing happens i'll say it is.

but *THEORETICALLY* my monitor is still capable of 110hz even with an oc'ed video card. My 7950's ran 1150/1500 the whole time I had them @ 110hz with no issues.

So I guess the test will be if I run @ 1000mhz (stock) on the video card and 110hz (known to be stable on this monitor with other amd cards.) and I have no issues, will that determine that something was wrong with the video card oc settings? I really don't want to have a video card I can't oc at all since if I can't OC I'm wasting my time trying to get over 90fps in most games anyway.

So far my options seem to be: Run 1200mhz @ 60fps
or run 1000mhz @ 110fps.

Now I know what you are thinking. It's got to be an unstable video card OC? Well I've tried lowering the OC also to 1100mhz and I remember getting the same garbled screens. (any 290/x should be able to do 1100 MHz stable imo) or it's a piece of junk


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I'm pretty sure for some reason whenever I overclock my video card it contributes to the problem.
> 
> Example: run video card @ 1200mhz @ 60hz refresh -- no problems
> run video card @ 1000mhz @ 110hz -- pretty sure no problems
> run video card @ 1200mhz @ 110hz -- all hell breaks loose.
> 
> So if my video card was oc was unstable, why does it work fine @ 60hz as far as I know. Shouldn't the video card oc have nothing to do with the refresh of the monitor? All it does is sends out a signal to be displayed by the monitor.
> 
> I haven't even confirmed fully yet the stock video card settings is stable w/ 110. I am working on that for the next few days and if nothing happens i'll say it is.


No you could very well be onto what your problem or at least part of it. GPU and VRAM overclocks can have a BIG effect on refresh rate overclocking. There is a bit of talk about it earlier but it is all but lost. Chances are that some of the lower overclocks may not be fully stable either and it is not apparent on the desktop. Depending on driver versions there has been members that have found ANY overclocking of VRAM undermining there monitor overclock.

I have found that my card looses monitor stability if i overclock over 1250mhz at 120hz(and this is big since i can overclock to 153hz normally). I would try bone stock GPU and VRAM clocks first and see how that goes. Also see if your timings not being standard directly correlates to your GPU clocks and stability(saw this happen at 120hz.net).

Lastly i haven't found any actual connection between the effects of GPU overclocking and monitor overclocking. I think over in the random catleap threads someone made a very good point on how VRAM overclock can effect the timings due to the processing of pixels > the blanking period and optical blacks DE-stabilizing at higher speeds but i can't find it right now. but if VRAM and GPU speed are related one could just push the other to instability(like the wrench in the machine complex)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Now I know what you are thinking. It's got to be an unstable video card OC? Well I've tried lowering the OC also to 1100mhz and I remember getting the same garbled screens. (any 290/x should be able to do 1100 MHz stable imo) or it's a piece of junk


LOL yeah that would suck if the GPU clock is locked at overclocked speeds, but another thing you could try and is slightly underclocking the VRAM to see if that makes a difference and allows you to up the GPU clock. This can be effective, i underclocked my 780ti's memory and got another 60mhz out of the core clock(which was still a nice bump in FPS with no monitor OC effects, kinda like a trade).


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> No you could very well be onto what your problem or at least part of it. GPU and VRAM overclocks can have a BIG effect on refresh rate overclocking. There is a bit of talk about it earlier but it is all but lost. Chances are that some of the lower overclocks may not be fully stable either and it is not apparent on the desktop. Depending on driver versions there has been members that have found ANY overclocking of VRAM undermining there monitor overclock.
> 
> *I have found that my card looses monitor stability if i overclock over 1250mhz at 120hz*(and this is big since i can overclock to 153hz normally). I would try bone stock GPU and VRAM clocks first and see how that goes. Also see if your timings not being standard directly correlates to your GPU clocks and stability(saw this happen at 120hz.net).
> 
> *Lastly i haven't found any actual connection between the effects of GPU overclocking and monitor overclocking.* I think over in the random catleap threads someone made a very good point on how VRAM overclock can effect the timings due to the processing of pixels > the blanking period and optical blacks DE-stabilizing at higher speeds but i can't find it right now. but if VRAM and GPU speed are related one could just push the other to instability(like the wrench in the machine complex)


these are the settings I have used on this monitor for 4-6 months on the 7950's I had with no issues.



You seem to say video card oc'ing has an effect and then doesn't have an effect? Sorry I'm just a bit confused.

if you were me would you keep trying my 110hz that I know my monitor has been able to do previously (on dif cards) @ stock gpu settings to rule out monitor degrading somehow or what would you do ?

Really sucks if I have to choose between a monitor OC and a Video card oc. Some people here say they have 290/x's and these monitors oc'ed I wonder if they have the video card oc'ed also? Should I consider an RMA on this card?


----------



## passinos

After using CRU and OC'n my X-star to 120hz, I can't watch any videos. They are blank screen.
I have tried going back to 60hz using 2nd LCD which is not OC'd and even moving 2nd LCD to Intel inboard GPU.
Anyone seen this?
Thanks


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> LOL yeah that would suck if the GPU clock is locked at overclocked speeds, but another thing you could try and is slightly underclocking the VRAM to see if that makes a difference and allows you to up the GPU clock. This can be effective, i underclocked my 780ti's memory and got another 60mhz out of the core clock(which was still a nice bump in FPS with no monitor OC effects, kinda like a trade).


Hmm I really don't want to have to underclock my video card in anyway. I'll be doing an RMA if it comes to that.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> these are the settings I have used on this monitor for 4-6 months on the 7950's I had with no issues.
> 
> 
> 
> You seem to say video card oc'ing has an effect and then doesn't have an effect? Sorry I'm just a bit confused.
> 
> if you were me would you keep trying my 110hz that I know my monitor has been able to do previously (on dif cards) @ stock gpu settings to rule out monitor degrading somehow or what would you do ?
> 
> Really sucks if I have to choose between a monitor OC and a Video card oc. Some people here say they have 290/x's and these monitors oc'ed I wonder if they have the video card oc'ed also? Should I consider an RMA on this card?


I am saying it does have an effect and they are a bit linked. I have an overclock on my GPU making it 1241Mhz, but if i turn off my monitor overclock of 120hz to 60hz i can get my GPU to 1313Mhz. That is almost a 9% difference in overclock due to the monitor keeping stability. Now this is not always happening since i have found people who did not see a difference(at least at 120hz or 96hz and they may not have tested it as much as i did to find those limits).

If i were you i would do what i always do, test the whole setup with all the variables over and over and OVER again till i find the absolute best sweet spot and the limits in either direction. You might find the best place to be is a moderate/high GPU overclock with using 96hz(with custom or stock timings). You might also find that VRAM or a certain timings setting with the monitor was acting as an anchor(like finding that a 100mhz VRAM underclock resolves everything or something). IDK about you but i enjoy troubleshooting stuff like this almost more than actually playing games/using the hardware so for me your in for a neat ride.

I would not consider an RMA until you really narrow down all the aspects of what is going on. There is always the possibility you will find a work around. You may also fin a wall with the card and if you are not satisfied and you see much better performance from other users(including the monitor overclock, got to keep variables as same as possible) you may want to try again with an RMA if it is not costly.

Lastly, those timings look fine but you could try setting the sync width to 1 for lines and the front porch to 1 for lines. It gives you a slightly longer blanking period but i couldn't see any extra blurring at least at 120hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> After using CRU and OC'n my X-star to 120hz, I can't watch any videos. They are blank screen.
> I have tried going back to 60hz using 2nd LCD which is not OC'd and even moving 2nd LCD to Intel inboard GPU.
> Anyone seen this?
> Thanks


what video player are you using?
nvidia or AMD GPU?
have you checked your scaling options?
lastly have you checked video hardware acceleration?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Hmm I really don't want to have to underclock my video card in anyway. I'll be doing an RMA if it comes to that.


I definitely understand that but as a matter or troubleshooting it may be worth it especially if it is only like 50mhz and fixes your whole issue.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I am saying it does have an effect and they are a bit linked. I have an overclock on my GPU making it 1241Mhz, but if i turn off my monitor overclock of 120hz to 60hz i can get my GPU to 1313Mhz. That is almost a 9% difference in overclock due to the monitor keeping stability. Now this is not always happening since i have found people who did not see a difference(at least at 120hz or 96hz and they may not have tested it as much as i did to find those limits).
> 
> If i were you i would do what i always do, test the whole setup with all the variables over and over and OVER again till i find the absolute best sweet spot and the limits in either direction. You might find the best place to be is a moderate/high GPU overclock with using 96hz(with custom or stock timings). You might also find that VRAM or a certain timings setting with the monitor was acting as an anchor(like finding that a 100mhz VRAM underclock resolves everything or something). *IDK about you but i enjoy troubleshooting stuff like this almost more than actually playing games/using the hardware so for me your in for a neat ride.
> *
> I would not consider an RMA until you really narrow down all the aspects of what is going on. There is always the possibility you will find a work around. You may also fin a wall with the card and if you are not satisfied and you see much better performance from other users(including the monitor overclock, got to keep variables as same as possible) you may want to try again with an RMA if it is not costly.
> 
> Lastly, those timings look fine but you could try setting the sync width to 1 for lines and the front porch to 1 for lines. It gives you a slightly longer blanking period but i couldn't see any extra blurring at least at 120hz.
> what video player are you using?
> nvidia or AMD GPU?
> have you checked your scaling options?
> lastly have you checked video hardware acceleration?
> I definitely understand that but as a matter or troubleshooting it may be worth it especially if it is only like 50mhz and fixes your whole issue.


I enjoy it to a degree but I am now past that point and would just like to enjoy my 300$ monitor and my 500$ video card @ 96-110hz with some decent video oc to help push those frames.

Should I be using alternate dvi operation mode in amd drivers or not? I saw somewhere ToastyX said to leave it on.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I enjoy it to a degree but I am now past that point and would just like to enjoy my 300$ monitor and my 500$ video card @ 96-110hz
> 
> Should I be using alternate dvi operation mode in amd drivers or not? I saw somewhere ToastyX said to leave it on.


I can relate to that. Sometimes the work has to stop even if ti is fun.

Concerning the DVI mode, This is a quote from ToastyX from 120hz.net and is the best description i have found(props to ToastyX)

""""""""""""""""""
These options aren't really documented, so I can only guess based on what I know.

"Reduce DVI frequency on high-resolution displays" probably has no effect on most monitors. Back when video cards, monitors, and cables could barely handle the full single-link DVI bandwidth, some people were having signal quality problems with 1600x1200 monitors like the Dell 2001FP. 1600x1200 @ 60 Hz without reduced blanking is close to the single-link DVI limit of 165 MHz, so that option would use the CVT reduced blanking standard to reduce the pixel clock to around 130 MHz to get a more stable signal, similar to how we reduce the timing parameters to get a better overclock. Nowadays, most LCD monitors use CVT reduced blanking by default (or EIA/CEA-861 for 1080p), so that option wouldn't have any effect. It should be left off so it doesn't mess with the timing parameters.

"Alternate DVI operational mode" is coherent mode, meaning the clock and data are synchronized. Originally, DVI was non-coherent because the clock multiplier caused a delay in the clock signal that needed to be compensated for at the receiving end. This caused problems when using longer cables because the length affected the delay. Nowadays, everything is designed to use coherent signals for better stability, so this option should be left on. It shouldn't be turned off unless you're using an older non-coherent display.
""""""""""""""""""""

With that said i would leave it on if i used AMD cards.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I can relate to that. Sometimes the work has to stop even if ti is fun.
> 
> Concerning the DVI mode, This is a quote from ToastyX from 120hz.net and is the best description i have found(props to ToastyX)
> 
> """"""""""""""""""
> These options aren't really documented, so I can only guess based on what I know.
> 
> "Reduce DVI frequency on high-resolution displays" probably has no effect on most monitors. Back when video cards, monitors, and cables could barely handle the full single-link DVI bandwidth, some people were having signal quality problems with 1600x1200 monitors like the Dell 2001FP. 1600x1200 @ 60 Hz without reduced blanking is close to the single-link DVI limit of 165 MHz, so that option would use the CVT reduced blanking standard to reduce the pixel clock to around 130 MHz to get a more stable signal, similar to how we reduce the timing parameters to get a better overclock. Nowadays, most LCD monitors use CVT reduced blanking by default (or EIA/CEA-861 for 1080p), so that option wouldn't have any effect. It should be left off so it doesn't mess with the timing parameters.
> 
> "Alternate DVI operational mode" is coherent mode, meaning the clock and data are synchronized. Originally, DVI was non-coherent because the clock multiplier caused a delay in the clock signal that needed to be compensated for at the receiving end. This caused problems when using longer cables because the length affected the delay. Nowadays, everything is designed to use coherent signals for better stability, so this option should be left on. It shouldn't be turned off unless you're using an older non-coherent display.
> """"""""""""""""""""
> 
> With that said i would leave it on if i used AMD cards.


Yea I quoted that earlier As to why I was leaving it on. I'll keep it on then.

Also I just tried your suggestion for 110 and I get no picture at all.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiritfly*
> 
> I'm really in a need of a good 27 inch monitors as I haven't upgraded since my dual 22 samsung 2232BW (yeah I know..)
> 
> I've found that the cheapest seller for X-Star is dream-seller and the cheapest for Qnix is excellentcastle. So according to the table of all members who bought from these sellers posted in the main post I've made this:
> 
> excellentcastle:
> 
> bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
> gggggggg
> ppppp
> 
> dream-seller:
> 
> bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbBbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
> gggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg
> pppppppppppppPpppPpPP
> 
> b - menas has some bleeding
> g - perfect with no issues
> p - stuck/dead pixel
> 
> Seems like the X-Star is more reliable than the Qnix at least when bought from the cheapest ebay sellers. This is the quickest summary I could come up with. What do you guys think?


They're both the same, the sellers just have things marked up different, as it's based on w/e they wanna sell in however they want to sell such as the BS Perfect Pixel. Go with whatever name sounds cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> G-Sync and these monitors - gonna happen?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> I doubt it


I've posted on this a few times I'll refind it and requote/source G-Sync will be working for these monitors. It's already been confirmed for the panels.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Anything special I gotta do to get 120hz on my monitor with sli?

Just got a second 770 and having problems. When I enable it it just locks up every 10 seconds or so. Like the monitor locks up also does this in 60hz mode. Only when I enable sli does it do this. I'm not overclocking anything at all right now.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Anything special I gotta do to get 120hz on my monitor with sli?
> 
> Just got a second 770 and having problems. When I enable it it just locks up every 10 seconds or so. Like the monitor locks up also does this in 60hz mode. Only when I enable sli does it do this. I'm not overclocking anything at all right now.


Did you use the FULL pixel patch?


----------



## jameyscott

So it's not worth the extra money for a "pixel perfect" monitor?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Did you use the FULL pixel patch?


No I didn't...


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Did you use the FULL pixel patch?


Where is this patch?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Where is this patch?


http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> So it's not worth the extra money for a "pixel perfect" monitor?


This has been gone over so many times i think i am just going to start quoting one of my previous statements, and BTW if you search "scam" in this thread the PP topic is the only topic that shows up.

Anyways her is the quote

Perfect pixel is a blunt statement that when you receive your monitor there will be no dead pixels. This is a complete load of nonesense as mainstream monitors cannot even guarantee no dead pixels. There has been plenty of times that my company will order dozens of monitors and a small portion of them will have dead pixels and will have to be sent in for a RMA. This demonstrates that a "guarantee" of no dead pixels is nonesense. Not to mention is says "dead" pixels which is too vague to count "stuck" pixels or "bright" pixels.

The only way this is valid in any way is IF with the particular seller you are going to states that their "perfect pixel" class warrants that if there is ANY dead/stuck/bright pixels they will RMA the monitor for free(meaning paid shipping back). This is certainly not the case as we have heard many people in the Qnix club have bad experiences with the perfect pixel term(scam). I would confirm this with the seller before even ordering.

Most of the time what i have seen is even with a perfect pixel term used if there is an actual dead pixel(a lot of the time they are stuck) the seller will try and give you a partial refund(which is a great conversation).

All in all this has been repeatedly confirmed to be a marketing term(scam). I would look more into what the sellers warranty period is and what the acceptable level of dead/stuck/bright pixels is which does apply even with perfect pixels. You want piece of mind buy an actual warranty (squaretrade) otherwise unless you contact the seller and specifically find out what perfect pixel entails or you are just tossing money into the fire.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


DUDE, you're a lifesaver. Lol worked perfect!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> So it's not worth the extra money for a "pixel perfect" monitor?


'

Nope, just a money making technique, just the luck of the draw.

Every monitor usually has something odd with it otherwise it wouldn't be A- most people have backlight bleed. Some people like me dont have that and have a small bruise in the monitor. Either was the monitor is amazing.









Best purchase I've made this year.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

well the new amd whql just came out so i'm gonna give that a try see if it helps me


----------



## mboner1

That sucks, wish i had waited a few more hours now and seen if it fixed my red screen issue. Ah well, not going through that all again for the 100th time.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yes i am a smart ass because i constantly try to tell people to go fishing rather than ask for a fish so they can be smart asses themselves. I simply try and push people not only in the right direction but also a bit towards helping themselves in the process. Also saying sorry for helping is just trying to setup a victimized outlook thus demonizing me, not appreciated, and doesn't help anyone. I just explained my comment that was all. Honestly this should have stopped with my original comment. Please PM me any more comments like this since it does not contribute to the thread.
> 
> On a better note i have gone through the thread and grabbed each of my more informative posts. So if anyone wants the downsampling instructions, timings optimizations, pros/cons, BLB fix, review posts PM me and i will forward them to you. I am not going to repost them though they are all in this thread like 3-4 times already.


I wouldn't mind a PM because no one puts them in the original post anymore and searching through this thread is a pain in the ass.


----------



## Jetlitheone

So I used that pixel clock patch and it works now but all my games flicker when sli is enabled...?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> After using CRU and OC'n my X-star to 120hz, I can't watch any videos. They are blank screen.
> I have tried going back to 60hz using 2nd LCD which is not OC'd and even moving 2nd LCD to Intel inboard GPU.
> Anyone seen this?
> Thanks


I think it is a common issue when OCing monitors. This is sometimes referred to as green screen, because most of the time the video shows a constant green screen. There is a fix to it by adjusting some video playback setting. Search the thread for green screen or the like.


----------



## muscleking

i was using the old BFG 7900gtx video card and it can do 96 no problem. ok set to 96hz tonight and will keep it that way and see how long it can last.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I think it is a common issue when OCing monitors. This is sometimes referred to as green screen, because most of the time the video shows a constant green screen. There is a fix to it by adjusting some video playback setting. Search the thread for green screen or the like.


Actually this is hardware acceleration being broken due to the full patch. If your not using SLI you can use hte partial patch and still have flash hardware acceleration. If you have a muti-GPU setup you have to use the full patch and flash hardware acceleration will need to be turned off(which doesn't matter just about everyone has a fast enough CPU for software flash filtering these days).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> So I used that pixel clock patch and it works now but all my games flicker when sli is enabled...?


Here
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=380613

Also searching flickering in this thread will give you several answers. Check all your variables, there hasn't been a simple catch all fix for this. It could be several different things and i am sure you have been doing some tinkering to get things working so make sure it isn't something simple and search.

The one time this happened to me a driver re-install worked. You having JUST patched may need to re-install drivers and patch first thing after to start from scratch and remove any possible corruption(clean install too).


----------



## Spartan F8

delete


----------



## taafe

Please can someone from the UK advise me on where best to purchase a monitor im really kinda nervous because I am a noob when it comes to monitors and if anything were to go wrong Im worried I wouldn't be able to sort it. Would a single gtx 680 be enough? Really wanna order asap so I can game all over Christmas with hopefully a supperd looking screen, thanks people


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Please can someone from the UK advise me on where best to purchase a monitor im really kinda nervous because I am a noob when it comes to monitors and if anything were to go wrong Im worried I wouldn't be able to sort it. Would a single gtx 680 be enough? Really wanna order asap so I can game all over Christmas with hopefully a supperd looking screen, thanks people


There is no "best" place, most places are the same however if you can get the squaretrade warranty or don't mind spending a little more and buy from newegg. Also i recommend reading through a lot of the thread(especially the OP) and becoming NOT a noob before buying. It is always best to know what you are doing before you do it. Lastly, a GTX680 should be fine but you may want to consider in the future moving to SLI to maintain 120fps in some games(depending on the requirements of games you play).

When i had 570s in SLI i was able to keep 60-80fps in most games and some would stay at 120fps. A GTX680 is pretty much equal or slightly better that 570s in SLI and equal to a GTX770 which i have both owned. When i had two GTX770s in SLI it pretty much took anything i could through at it except for VRAM. 1440p needs at least 2GB of VRAM and 3GB would be ideal.

I am not from the UK but newegg will ship there. If you go ebay then you may have to pay VAT but it will get there.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Actually this is hardware acceleration being broken due to the full patch. If your not using SLI you can use hte partial patch and still have flash hardware acceleration. If you have a muti-GPU setup you have to use the full patch and flash hardware acceleration will need to be turned off(which doesn't matter just about everyone has a fast enough CPU for software flash filtering these days).
> Here
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=380613
> 
> Also searching flickering in this thread will give you several answers. Check all your variables, there hasn't been a simple catch all fix for this. It could be several different things and i am sure you have been doing some tinkering to get things working so make sure it isn't something simple and search.
> 
> The one time this happened to me a driver re-install worked. You having JUST patched may need to re-install drivers and patch first thing after to start from scratch and remove any possible corruption(clean install too).


Ok fixed. Thanks. Any idea why bf4 just crashes after a little while?

Guessing it's just the game lol


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Ok fixed. Thanks. Any idea why bf4 just crashes after a little while?
> 
> Guessing it's just the game lol


BF4 is a glitch, buggy load of crap........and such a good game. BF4 is a love hate relationship. The game runs and then it doesn't, just keep up with updates for it.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Actually this is hardware acceleration being broken due to the full patch. If your not using SLI you can use hte partial patch and still have flash hardware acceleration. If you have a muti-GPU setup you have to use the full patch and flash hardware acceleration will need to be turned off(which doesn't matter just about everyone has a fast enough CPU for software flash filtering these days).
> Here
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=380613
> 
> Also searching flickering in this thread will give you several answers. Check all your variables, there hasn't been a simple catch all fix for this. It could be several different things and i am sure you have been doing some tinkering to get things working so make sure it isn't something simple and search.
> 
> The one time this happened to me a driver re-install worked. You having JUST patched may need to re-install drivers and patch first thing after to start from scratch and remove any possible corruption(clean install too).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I think it is a common issue when OCing monitors. This is sometimes referred to as green screen, because most of the time the video shows a constant green screen. There is a fix to it by adjusting some video playback setting. Search the thread for green screen or the like.


Reps to you.
Flash GPU Acceleration was issue.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I think it is a common issue when OCing monitors. This is sometimes referred to as green screen, because most of the time the video shows a constant green screen. There is a fix to it by adjusting some video playback setting. Search the thread for green screen or the like.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I think it is a common issue when OCing monitors. This is sometimes referred to as green screen, because most of the time the video shows a constant green screen. There is a fix to it by adjusting some video playback setting. Search the thread for green screen or the like.


Reps to you.
Flash GPU Acceleration was issue.


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There is no "best" place, most places are the same however if you can get the squaretrade warranty or don't mind spending a little more and buy from newegg. Also i recommend reading through a lot of the thread(especially the OP) and becoming NOT a noob before buying. It is always best to know what you are doing before you do it. Lastly, a GTX680 should be fine but you may want to consider in the future moving to SLI to maintain 120fps in some games(depending on the requirements of games you play).
> 
> When i had 570s in SLI i was able to keep 60-80fps in most games and some would stay at 120fps. A GTX680 is pretty much equal or slightly better that 570s in SLI and equal to a GTX770 which i have both owned. When i had two GTX770s in SLI it pretty much took anything i could through at it except for VRAM. 1440p needs at least 2GB of VRAM and 3GB would be ideal.
> 
> I am not from the UK but newegg will ship there. If you go ebay then you may have to pay VAT but it will get there.


Ive not looked into newegg and I have been reading through the thread so if I ordered from newegg wouldn't I get taxed on it? Ive heard they dont do glossy but as I game in a dark room I tgink glossy woulf be better for me. Also whats a good quality dvi lead? Is it true that you need a good quality one? I mainly play 3rd person batman, tomb raider assassin's creed etc I only have a 650w psu so would be an expensive upgrade if I was to sli too but I may just wait until maxwell as long as I can get 60hz roughly in most games that will be cool for now


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Ive not looked into newegg and I have been reading through the thread so if I ordered from newegg wouldn't I get taxed on it? Ive heard they dont do glossy but as I game in a dark room I tgink glossy woulf be better for me. Also whats a good quality dvi lead? Is it true that you need a good quality one? I mainly play 3rd person batman, tomb raider assassin's creed etc I only have a 650w psu so would be an expensive upgrade if I was to sli too but I may just wait until maxwell as long as I can get 60hz roughly in most games that will be cool for now


This is a quote of my DVI research:

""""""""""""""""""""""
This is more of an electrical argument than a research game. Any dual link DVI cable has a certain data rate that it is capable of and the size of the cable in terms of thickness is more about voltage over a distance. The thicker the cable the longer you can potentially send the data signal without data degradation. With overclocking you are pushing that data rate to its limits and cable quality does make a difference but it is not so much dependent of size, but is more on distance. The length of time the data is carried and the quality of the cable are the two main factors where size is a compensation for the length of time or distance the data is carried.

With this being said it is more important to get a very good quality short cable. If the thicker cables seem to have better results that would be worth considering in terms of how well the particular cables are made. The same could be said for a very short thin cable from a certain seller. This is why there are mixed reviews as no cable is equal(same as the monitor). The one thing that does show a very constant positive result is a shorter cable.

Over many of the tests i have done anything over 6ft seemed to have degraded results in stability per refresh regardless of the thickness. I originally bought 3 24AWG monoprice cables which had completely mixed results with one worse, one equal, and one better than the stock cable. After doing this i went up to work and tested about 30 DVI cables with the only constant positive factor being length.

After it was all said and done i found a random old DVI cable in a box at work that had no bells or whistles on ends, 24AWG and barely 3ft long that gave me the best results by a good margin(about 7hz over the best monoprice cable totaling 153hz). So go shorter than 6ft (as every cable i tried over 6ft barely hit 108hz) and get a few to try. Cables are not that expensive and if you have a few gamer friends there is likely several you can borrow and try to get the best overclock and don't worry too much about thickness.
"""""""""""""""""""


----------



## LunaP

So my new Gloss only ( no glass / no matte ) models should be coming in this week. Got one of the tempered glass models back in its box, greensum had me submit a request for DHL to pick it up but when they got there they asked for an invoice and all this paperwork that I was not informed about, if anyones dealt with DHL as the return before if you could please pass on a copy of your invoice (just the important section or copy the data out such as weight etc ) Appreciate it.


----------



## amorello

Has anyone heard about the new QNIX QX2710 DP Multi: http://www.overclock.net/t/1440228/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel-multi-input-model-discussion
It doesn't have only a single DVI and it has OSD etc. But does it lose it's overclockability and input lag, does anyone know?


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Has anyone heard about the new QNIX QX2710 DP Multi: http://www.overclock.net/t/1440228/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel-multi-input-model-discussion
> It doesn't have only a single DVI and it has OSD etc. But does it lose it's overclockability and input lag, does anyone know?


Its old but no it cannot OC its the same quality though just meant to be used as a 60hz for those that want the extra options for input


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Its old but no it cannot OC its the same quality though just meant to be used as a 60hz for those that want the extra options for input


...Darn and I was happy to hear about it. Now back to choosing which 1440p to buy


----------



## Jetlitheone

I'm going nuts. Why is my display flickering for sli again?! It stopped and came back -.- ***


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Its old but no it cannot OC its the same quality though just meant to be used as a 60hz for those that want the extra options for input


Wow. I'm glad this came up since everyone was completely ignoring my repeated pleading, and since there's no info whatsoever about this in the OP. Very good to know I can get a version with other inputs.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Actually this is hardware acceleration being broken due to the full patch. If your not using SLI you can use hte partial patch and still have flash hardware acceleration. If you have a muti-GPU setup you have to use the full patch and flash hardware acceleration will need to be turned off(which doesn't matter just about everyone has a fast enough CPU for software flash filtering these days).
> Here
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=380613
> 
> Also searching flickering in this thread will give you several answers. Check all your variables, there hasn't been a simple catch all fix for this. It could be several different things and i am sure you have been doing some tinkering to get things working so make sure it isn't something simple and search.
> 
> The one time this happened to me a driver re-install worked. You having JUST patched may need to re-install drivers and patch first thing after to start from scratch and remove any possible corruption(clean install too).
> 
> 
> 
> Ok fixed. Thanks. Any idea why bf4 just crashes after a little while?
> 
> Guessing it's just the game lol
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> I'm going nuts. Why is my display flickering for sli again?! It stopped and came back -.- ***


Apparently the newest update for bf4 broke sli. People are complaining about various issues.

Also are you using two sli cables? You need to if you want to OC your monitor.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Apparently the newest update for bf4 broke sli. People are complaining about various issues.
> 
> Also are you using two sli cables? You need to if you want to OC your monitor.


Read about that two cable thing. It's a myth lol


----------



## Psychohack

Thinking of buying this X-star, but I am worried it will have pixel problems if I don't pay more for a pixel perfect one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Tempered-Glass-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-DVI-PC-Monitor-/121232555003?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3a05fbfb

Do they test all of these monitors and sort them out? If so I would guess not paying for the pixel perfect means your getting a worse monitor. However if they only cherry pick a few, and never look at the rest, I suppose you could have a chance of getting a perfect pixel for less money.

For $50 more I can get a 0-1 bad pixel "pixel perfect". Is it worth it? Do they sort through all of these and segregate? For even more I found one add that says 0 bad pixels, but then the price is nearing $400.

Looking for advice.

Also, I have this computer in the living room with only a wall behind me (no windows behind me or much of anything but a wall. Would glossy be better than the coated in this case? There are no lights behind me either.
My 60" TV is glossy and I never seem to notice, in fact its the only tv in the house that is glossy and I think it looks the best. My cell phone is glossy also and I can't say it ever bothered me (Samsung Note 2)...However I am fine with Matte as well if there is not a better picture with the glossy.


----------



## rocket47

doublepost


----------



## rocket47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> Thinking of buying this X-star, but I am worried it will have pixel problems if I don't pay more for a pixel perfect one.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Star-DP2710-LED-Tempered-Glass-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-DVI-PC-Monitor-/121232555003?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3a05fbfb
> 
> Do they test all of these monitors and sort them out? If so I would guess not paying for the pixel perfect means your getting a worse monitor. However if they only cherry pick a few, and never look at the rest, I suppose you could have a chance of getting a perfect pixel for less money.
> 
> For $50 more I can get a 0-1 bad pixel "pixel perfect". Is it worth it? Do they sort through all of these and segregate? For even more I found one add that says 0 bad pixels, but then the price is nearing $400.
> 
> Looking for advice.
> 
> Also, I have this computer in the living room with only a wall behind me (no windows behind me or much of anything but a wall. Would glossy be better than the coated in this case? There are no lights behind me either.
> My 60" TV is glossy and I never seem to notice, in fact its the only tv in the house that is glossy and I think it looks the best. My cell phone is glossy also and I can't say it ever bothered me (Samsung Note 2)...However I am fine with Matte as well if there is not a better picture with the glossy.


Go read the post 11297, it will help you.
I have the xstar, not the perfect pixel, just the normal.
No dead, stuck pixels.

its not worth the extra 30-50 extra $ imo.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Apparently the newest update for bf4 broke sli. People are complaining about various issues.
> 
> Also are you using two sli cables? You need to if you want to OC your monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> Read about that two cable thing. It's a myth lol
Click to expand...

Well your having issues so... Pretty sure its been confirmed.


----------



## jim2point0

Can't seem to get my Qnix QX2710 to downsample at all


----------



## semajha

I am happy to report, that the x-star($299, non-perfect pixel, matte) I bought from dreamseller is 100% full functional with no noticeable dead/stuck pixels!!!!!









and you guys weren't kidding, the display enclosure is cheap as hell. can't wait to debezel this thing and rig a custom mount/stand to it.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jim2point0*
> 
> Can't seem to get my Qnix QX2710 to downsample at all


answered your PM


----------



## jim2point0

Yeah. I saw









Pretty frustrating that I can't get any downsampling resolutions to work at 60hz. A lot of games require that. And sadly, I'd rather have 4K even if it means I'm forced to use a 1080p monitor. You get spoiled by that IQ, and it looks much better than 2560x1440 native.

I know nothing about tweaking monitors, overclocking them (or video cards, for that matter), etc etc... so if that is required, I'm probably boned.


----------



## Psychohack

Well I got confirmation from the seller that the one I was looking at with tempered glass ("glossy") actually has a matte panel underneath. So that is pointless







However it is still the cheapest option. How hard is the matte coating to remove?? Or...should I just avoid all this and get a matte? I was just hoping for a better looking monitor since glare is probably not an issue for me, but putting a glass over the regular matte panel just makes more stuff in the way of the screen.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> ...............................H.....................V
> Active pixels...2560...............1440
> Front porch.......48.....................2
> Sync width.........32.....................2
> Total pixels.....2595...............1444
> (this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
> Pixel [email protected] (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
> Pixel [email protected]
> ...................................................^
> this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU. If you use just the nvidia control panel and use CVT reduced you are at like 500Mhz already. With just the control panel i was able to get 134Hz which is 559Mhz before things got messy. Thinking of this as a kinda limit i tried to get the pixel clock as low as possible and then try again. This got me to 142hz which was just under the pixel clock of what i got before confirming they are very relative to each other. Next after adding the monoprice cable that was better than stock i got to 152Hz at just over the original 559Mhz showing some bandwidth improvement. Now since i hate uniformity issues i have set it back to 120hz but with the newly found total pixels and overall lower pixel clock. This reduced the "strain" i guess that was on the cable for the overclock and vastly decreased negative overclocking effects(gamma shift was better, uniformity was pretty much gone, etc)
> 
> Also using this same methodology i tried downsampling the screen to see how high the pixel count could go on this monitor. I am not going to get too much into it but i was able to get [email protected] with an overall pixel clock of 561Mhz. Please be careful when downsampling though as it can cause the monitor to go into test mode and also corrupt the start resolution. If you do get where restarting the PC does not bring the picture back connect a separate monitor and boot windows, then connect the Qnix as secondary. After that you can switch it to primary and go on as normal. If anyone sees anywhere this can be improved PLEASE jump in. I have done a lot of reading but there could always be something i missed.
> 
> Hopefully this helps some people get 120hz or at least some better results at that refresh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Fixed weird space removal


Are these the lowest timings you've been able to obtain? Is this pretty much like overclocking to find the smallest pixel count without being unstable?

EDIT:

I just tried this and whenever I input these values and try to test them my monitor just goes into a loop of colors and gradients. I'm guessing it isn't stable? I can tell my computer is still working underneath this veil of stubbornness. What do I do to take it out of this mode without having to restart my computer?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Are these the lowest timings you've been able to obtain? Is this pretty much like overclocking to find the smallest pixel count without being unstable?
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I just tried this and whenever I input these values and try to test them my monitor just goes into a loop of colors and gradients. I'm guessing it isn't stable? I can tell my computer is still working underneath this veil of stubbornness. What do I do to take it out of this mode without having to restart my computer?


I think if you wait a minute itll reset.. not sure.

Anyways how much better is a monoprice cable than the one that came with this?

I have one that came with my dell but not sure how much better it is since I get the exact same results as the one that came with this one


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Are these the lowest timings you've been able to obtain? Is this pretty much like overclocking to find the smallest pixel count without being unstable?
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I just tried this and whenever I input these values and try to test them my monitor just goes into a loop of colors and gradients. I'm guessing it isn't stable? I can tell my computer is still working underneath this veil of stubbornness. What do I do to take it out of this mode without having to restart my computer?


NO you cannot just use these timings
YES it is a bit like overclocking a CPU
YES you should learn what you are doing with custom timings before just pressing buttons
NO you cannot get out of that mode without a reboot
YES they were the lowest timing that worked for ME not you

Every monitor is different and this is a method for optimizing timings(for those who have read and know what they are doing). The flashing colors are you screen going to test mode since your blanking and optical blacks went out of an operating space, This is kinda like the monitor BSODing thus indicating not only instability but that you royally missed any possible mark of stability.

If i am not mistaken this is the third time i posted this and the third time a member has made this mistake. This is the hard way to get better results. Like using the northbridge, HT link, FSB and multiplier to overclock a CPU rather than JUST changing the multiplier. Maybe i can change this post up to get people to stop(maybe just remove the timings all together). Most people usually site around 460mhz with the pixels at 2652x1446ish.

There are many other very useful posts regarding timings and what worked for who, I pointed you in the right direction but you got to do a little research.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> I think if you wait a minute itll reset.. not sure.
> 
> Anyways how much better is a monoprice cable than the one that came with this?
> 
> I have one that came with my dell but not sure how much better it is since I get the exact same results as the one that came with this one


I have not seen the 1 minute thing before but i tempted to push my monitor into test mode to try it. The cable is always a variable but i think the main problem here is people just trying to put my timings in without actually optimizing.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> NO you cannot just use these timings
> YES it is a bit like overclocking a CPU
> YES you should learn what you are doing with custom timings before just pressing buttons
> NO you cannot get out of that mode without a reboot
> YES they were the lowest timing that worked for ME not you
> 
> Every monitor is different and this is a method for optimizing timings(for those who have read and know what they are doing). The flashing colors are you screen going to test mode since your blanking and optical blacks went out of an operating space, This is kinda like the monitor BSODing thus indicating not only instability but that you royally missed any possible mark of stability.
> 
> If i am not mistaken this is the third time i posted this and the third time a member has made this mistake. This is the hard way to get better results. Like using the northbridge, HT link, FSB and multiplier to overclock a CPU rather than JUST changing the multiplier. Maybe i can change this post up to get people to stop(maybe just remove the timings all together). Most people usually site around 460mhz with the pixels at 2652x1446ish.
> 
> There are many other very useful posts regarding timings and what worked for who, I pointed you in the right direction but you got to do a little research.
> I have not seen the 1 minute thing before but i tempted to push my monitor into test mode to try it. The cable is always a variable but i think the main problem here is people just trying to put my timings in without actually optimizing.


Thanks for replying, that was helpful. I'm sorry I'm another redundant commenter but how do you think I found this old post of yours on timings? I was _researching_.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Another thing I wanna add here. I've been learning a little about this stuff and also if your timings are too low and you still see the screen as in you have signal. Sometimes even that is too low and you have to up the timings. I actually think this dell dvi cable is crap cause I can't get to timings most people can get to... I mean I can but once I'm in a game the damn game goes nuts if it's too low then if it's too high I get artifacts. Maybe I need to cave and buy another cable or try the one that came with this.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Thanks for replying, that was helpful. I'm sorry I'm another redundant commenter but how do you think I found this old post of yours on timings? I was _researching_.


Here is i very common quite well working timings set. you might also try setting the vertical front porch and syn width to 1(has helped in the past).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Another thing I wanna add here. I've been learning a little about this stuff and also if your timings are too low and you still see the screen as in you have signal. Sometimes even that is too low and you have to up the timings. I actually think this dell dvi cable is crap cause I can't get to timings most people can get to... I mean I can but once I'm in a game the damn game goes nuts if it's too low then if it's too high I get artifacts. Maybe I need to cave and buy another cable or try the one that came with this.


DVI cable research....Another cable is always worth trying but don't buy any expensive brand name crap:
____________
This is more of an electrical argument than a research game. Any dual link DVI cable has a certain data rate that it is capable of and the size of the cable in terms of thickness is more about voltage over a distance. The thicker the cable the longer you can potentially send the data signal without data degradation. With overclocking you are pushing that data rate to its limits and cable quality does make a difference but it is not so much dependent of size, but is more on distance. The length of time the data is carried and the quality of the cable are the two main factors where size is a compensation for the length of time or distance the data is carried.

With this being said it is more important to get a very good quality short cable. If the thicker cables seem to have better results that would be worth considering in terms of how well the particular cables are made. The same could be said for a very short thin cable from a certain seller. This is why there are mixed reviews as no cable is equal(same as the monitor). The one thing that does show a very constant positive result is a shorter cable.

Over many of the tests i have done anything over 6ft seemed to have degraded results in stability per refresh regardless of the thickness. I originally bought 3 24AWG monoprice cables which had completely mixed results with one worse, one equal, and one better than the stock cable. After doing this i went up to work and tested about 30 DVI cables with the only constant positive factor being length.

After it was all said and done i found a random old DVI cable in a box at work that had no bells or whistles on ends, 24AWG and barely 3ft long that gave me the best results by a good margin(about 7hz over the best monoprice cable totaling 153hz). So go shorter than 6ft (as every cable i tried over 6ft barely hit 108hz) and get a few to try. Cables are not that expensive and if you have a few gamer friends there is likely several you can borrow and try to get the best overclock and don't worry too much about thickness.
____________


----------



## LunaP

If the cable suppirts 9+ gb/s itll do the job I bought 2 for 9 $ each at frys. The one that came with all of mine was the same quality

Also my glossy came (non tempered)


----------



## Jetlitheone

How's this one?

Cables To Go 26911 DVI-D Male/Male Dual Link Digital Video Cable,Black(2 Meter/6.56 Feet)
http://amzn.com/B0000X0VCY


----------



## lightsout

Have you tried a second sli cable? Anyone else want to speak on that. Anyone running sli and not needing two cables to run 120hz?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Have you tried a second sli cable? Anyone else want to speak on that. Anyone running sli and not needing two cables to run 120hz?


Don't have one laying around. No one sells those in retail around here.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> How's this one?
> 
> Cables To Go 26911 DVI-D Male/Male Dual Link Digital Video Cable,Black(2 Meter/6.56 Feet)
> http://amzn.com/B0000X0VCY


That works, I have that one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Have you tried a second sli cable? Anyone else want to speak on that. Anyone running sli and not needing two cables to run 120hz?


I was having issues before and finally added it then it worked it seemed, I can test w/o it though.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> That works, I have that one.
> I was having issues before and finally added it then it worked it seemed, I can test w/o it though.


Please do lol


----------



## Jetlitheone

Also the flickering thing is battlefield 4 I guess. Damn game lol.... Why must they ruin everything.


----------



## lightsout

That might just be an sli thing.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Also the flickering thing is battlefield 4 I guess. Damn game lol.... Why must they ruin everything.


I just purchased BF4 so I'll see. Also are you using CRU ? If so try using your video driver, CRU is more for people that either wanna play the lottery or know what they're doing. The video driver seems to know the exact settings for pushing via your card.

Anywhoo to answer some people that have been asking the difference between monitors.

Also this is just coming from me but having all 3 types of monitors now I can tell the difference between the 3.

My matte before had some softing which for those unfamiliar with photography soft filters is where a slight blur is applied to an image to give it a semi glow, this as well as refering to lowering the sharpness of an image.

So the matte was originally about 3-5% softing on the screen. also a bit of backlight is suppressed.

Tempered glass + matte = slightly softer effect of about 1% or so not much diff w/ lightng not as sharp next to gloss.

Gloss = AMAZING sharp/richer colors. I have 4 monitors now so this can relate to some data. Gonna go ahead and get another gloss now to replace my other tempered matte.

Will you notice the difference without having all to compare with? Not to much, unless our OCD it might bother you knowing something's different. I"m not but I Do prefer the best of what I can get when it comes to video/graphics and sound.

I think the monitor came with 1 dead pixel but I think it's gone now. Actually no put up a black screen I have to put my face in close to see it, pixels @ this density are nearly impossible to see by themselves so I'm satisfied. I'll run a fixer later and should fix it.

Hope this answers some questions.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> I just purchased BF4 so I'll see. Also are you using CRU ? If so try using your video driver, CRU is more for people that either wanna play the lottery or know what they're doing. The video driver seems to know the exact settings for pushing via your card.
> 
> Anywhoo to answer some people that have been asking the difference between monitors.
> 
> Also this is just coming from me but having all 3 types of monitors now I can tell the difference between the 3.
> 
> My matte before had some softing which for those unfamiliar with photography soft filters is where a slight blur is applied to an image to give it a semi glow, this as well as refering to lowering the sharpness of an image.
> 
> So the matte was originally about 3-5% softing on the screen. also a bit of backlight is suppressed.
> 
> Tempered glass + matte = slightly softer effect of about 1% or so not much diff w/ lightng not as sharp next to gloss.
> 
> Gloss = AMAZING sharp/richer colors. I have 4 monitors now so this can relate to some data. Gonna go ahead and get another gloss now to replace my other tempered matte.
> 
> Will you notice the difference without having all to compare with? Not to much, unless our OCD it might bother you knowing something's different. I"m not but I Do prefer the best of what I can get when it comes to video/graphics and sound.
> 
> I think the monitor came with 1 dead pixel but I think it's gone now. Actually no put up a black screen I have to put my face in close to see it, pixels @ this density are nearly impossible to see by themselves so I'm satisfied. I'll run a fixer later and should fix it.
> 
> Hope this answers some questions.


What do you use to fix dead pixels? (Stuck)


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> What do you use to fix dead pixels? (Stuck)


Few utilities in the thread or load a video that flashes through every color and put it over the affected area and leave it there about an hour.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Have you tried a second sli cable? Anyone else want to speak on that. Anyone running sli and not needing two cables to run 120hz?


Tri crossfire on 290x's here and 120 hz is flawless. I didnt have to do anything but apply the pixel patch and type in 120 into cru. Unfortunately the 290x's don't use crossfire bridges so that probably won't help ya.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Few utilities in the thread or load a video that flashes through every color and put it over the affected area and leave it there about an hour.


Oh alright and no I'm using nvidia way not cru


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Oh alright and no I'm using nvidia way not cru


The nvidia control panel uses the same timings profiles as CRU except for LCD reduced. Both ways are for people who know what they are doing unless you use the profiles.


----------



## cennis

Hi everyone,

I ordered a QNIX original glossy from overclockmonitors.com(green-sum) before reading this thread, however I was fraudulently received a tempered glass model.

There was also a bruise on the monitor and thus DHL accepted as claim for damaged item.

Now that the item is finally shipped back to green-sum, he replies

"We will issue the refund for the item. However, please understand that
we cannot issue the refund for the custom charge. It would be greatly
appreciated if you kindly understand it."

Is there a way I can get this amount back?

canada/paid 35$ cad if relevant

Thanks

also, do not order from overclockmonitors.com/green-sum
slow communication
fraudulent


----------



## wabak

I got my monitor today, Matte 27" X-Star from dream-seller.

No dead pixels that I've noticed so far(paid for pixel perfect) and some minimal backlight bleed that should be easily sorted.

Overclocked to 96hz with no issues, remains after reboots etc, and after applying an ICC profile I couldn't be happier with it.

Great Purchase, AC4 looks ridiculous at 1440p!


----------



## Herr Terror

X-Star DP2710; glossy; ordered Saturday, 12/14 from AccessoriesWhole on eBay and arrived Tuesday, 12/17 (in Maryland); zero dead pixels; no discernible backlight bleed; $285 total - skipped pixel perfect/squaretrade gimmickry. No damage to screen or bezel, and no dust underneath the screen.

Apart from an extra couple millimeters' gap in the lower left corner, the bezel is tight - unlike most reports.

Will begin with the OC tests tonight. Could not be happier with the decision.


----------



## Vatican

Guys I just got a QNIX Q2710 Evo II from Red-Cap...I bought the PIXEL Perfect b**** model and it came with no dead pixels sure..but there's SO MUCH backlight bleed. These monitors are such a gamble...I bought a Shimian over a year ago and it had no problems whatsoever and that was a non-pixel perfect version.

Anyway, I tried contacting Red-Cap and they are not accepting an exchange saying the bleed is considered normal to the...??

Does this look normal to you? Will the black tape fix even work for this mess? I see like yellow blobs in the bottom center of screen:


----------



## gandscha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vatican*
> 
> Guys I just got a QNIX Q2710 Evo II from Red-Cap...I bought the PIXEL Perfect b**** model and it came with no dead pixels sure..but there's SO MUCH backlight bleed. These monitors are such a gamble...I bought a Shimian over a year ago and it had no problems whatsoever and that was a non-pixel perfect version.
> 
> Anyway, I tried contacting Red-Cap and they are not accepting an exchange saying the bleed is considered normal to the...??
> 
> Does this look normal to you? Will the black tape fix even work for this mess? I see like yellow blobs in the bottom center of screen:


This a little worse than the QNIX i ordered from accessorieswhole.

Fortunately i could fix the issue by doing the electrical tape mod + bending the metal frame arround the panel (invest time here).
When i dissasembled mine, the frame wobbled on my table and was curved in many places.

I you are a little crafty i can definitly recommend doing the same. Its really not difficult.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herr Terror*
> 
> X-Star DP2710; glossy; ordered Saturday, 12/14 from AccessoriesWhole on eBay and arrived Tuesday, 12/17 (in Maryland); zero dead pixels; no discernible backlight bleed; $285 total - skipped pixel perfect/squaretrade gimmickry. No damage to screen or bezel, and no dust underneath the screen.
> 
> Apart from an extra couple millimeters' gap in the lower left corner, the bezel is tight - unlike most reports.
> 
> Will begin with the OC tests tonight. Could not be happier with the decision.


No dust? So you got the tempered glass model? If so then it's most likely matte underneath.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Herr Terror*
> 
> X-Star DP2710; glossy; ordered Saturday, 12/14 from AccessoriesWhole on eBay and arrived Tuesday, 12/17 (in Maryland); zero dead pixels; no discernible backlight bleed; $285 total - skipped pixel perfect/squaretrade gimmickry. No damage to screen or bezel, and no dust underneath the screen.
> 
> Apart from an extra couple millimeters' gap in the lower left corner, the bezel is tight - unlike most reports.
> 
> Will begin with the OC tests tonight. Could not be happier with the decision.


Just to clarify the no dead pixel policies are gimmickry. Square trade warranties are legit and a wise purchase, especially when you are overclocking your monitor. A 3 yr warranty that is pretty highly rated for $50 is a sweet deal.


----------



## jim2point0

I couldn't detect any dead pixels on my QNIX. I did go for the pixel perfect version though. If there's a dead pixel, I can't find it. So at least there's that.

Still trying to wrap my head around going from a 23" 1080p to a 27" 1440p. The difference in size is staggering. My desktop is sooooo huuuuuge.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> No dust? So you got the tempered glass model? If so it's matte underneath.


How come your telling everyone that tempered glass definitely = matte when we know that's not true??


----------



## Herr Terror

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> No dust? So you got the tempered glass model? If so it's matte underneath.


It's listed as the tempered glass model, which my research says is essentially glossy. Is that not correct?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Just to clarify the no dead pixel policies are gimmickry. Square trade warranties are legit and a wise purchase, especially when you are overclocking your monitor. A 3 yr warranty that is pretty highly rated for $50 is a sweet deal.


Quite right. Not sure why I lumped them together.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

just an updated to anyone that cares. I have finished my build log, and I have been running 96hz/1100 core on my card and haven't had any further issues yet.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gandscha*
> 
> This a little worse than the QNIX i ordered from accessorieswhole.
> 
> Fortunately i could fix the issue by doing the electrical tape mod + bending the metal frame arround the panel (invest time here).
> When i dissasembled mine, the frame wobbled on my table and was curved in many places.
> 
> I you are a little crafty i can definitly recommend doing the same. Its really not difficult.


I'm interested on how you removed the metal frame around the panel. I'm planning to do this fix due to small back light bleed on the lower left portion of the screen. The issue i'm seeing is the tempered glass.. it is glued on the panel metal frame.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> How come your telling everyone that tempered glass definitely = matte when we know that's not true??


My apologies I worded it incorrectly and should have said " it's MOST likely matte underneath"

I've asked several sellers on ebay to confirm it and the information returned from them stated by the manufacturer was the matte + tempered was the new norm for gloss due to issues shipping and damaging and scratching easily , which I'm not seeing. There are a few cases where gloss may have been tempered. Granted I've had to explain the entire pricess of what the difference between the 2 are.

They get around this by saying "Gloss + film + Tempered glass" which ultimately means matte + tempered"


----------



## Psychohack

I am still thinking about these monitors. I have put another best offer out there. So far the response on those is dismal. They knock less than $5 off on a counteroffer for a pixel perfect (that many say is a scam). I put the offers on pixel perfect models just above what you can buy the regular one for. Still waiting on another response.....I figure if they aren't really doing anything for the pixel perfect anyway, you would think they might consider the best offers or give a better counteroffer....

Anyway, Micro Center (local) has more stock of the Asus PB278Q 27inch 2560x1440 now. They were out last Friday. I can get one of these for $499 plus tax and not deal with any of this Korean BS and return for any reason by simply driving over there. I would also have a normal warranty, better stand, more inputs, etc. Basically a couple hundred dollars more.....

So, do these Korean models look any better than the ASUS and is the overclock ability worth the hassles? Is the Samsung panel nicer looking?

If you take the extra $200 out of the equation, which would you get? Qnix/X-star vs. ASUS with no consideration to the price??


----------



## Loktar Ogar

I bought the QNIX/X-Star because of the ability to OC! I mostly play games so this will benefit me. Secondly i watch movies... Enjoying every moment watching Despicable Me 1 & 2 with wonderful colors...









My bottom line is: Smoother games playing with wonderful colors! Win!


----------



## jim2point0

Hey! Potentially n00b question here. But is there any benefit to overclocking a monitor to 120hz if you generally can't get games to run much faster than 60 FPS?

60 FPS has always been my maximum framerate to target because it feels perfect for me. I've been surprised by all the hype around overclocking to 120hz since I discovered this monitor.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> I am still thinking about these monitors. I have put another best offer out there. So far the response on those is dismal. They knock less than $5 off on a counteroffer for a pixel perfect (that many say is a scam). I put the offers on pixel perfect models just above what you can buy the regular one for. Still waiting on another response.....I figure if they aren't really doing anything for the pixel perfect anyway, you would think they might consider the best offers or give a better counteroffer....
> 
> Anyway, Micro Center (local) has more stock of the Asus PB278Q 27inch 2560x1440 now. They were out last Friday. I can get one of these for $499 plus tax and not deal with any of this Korean BS and return for any reason by simply driving over there. I would also have a normal warranty, better stand, more inputs, etc. Basically a couple hundred dollars more.....
> 
> So, do these Korean models look any better than the ASUS and is the overclock ability worth the hassles? Is the Samsung panel nicer looking?
> 
> If you take the extra $200 out of the equation, which would you get? Qnix/X-star vs. ASUS with no consideration to the price??


Same panel I believe between the 2.

You're asking in a biased thread, but I'll give you a general answer.

1) Multiple inputs are there for those that have no other means of 1 specific, so vs gotta have because vs just need this.
2) Panels of the PB278Q are relative to the Xstar/QNIX so you're saving money 289$ vs 500$ (normally 600) so 200$
3) no OSD on screen for calibration but this can be done via software
4) Ebay no hassle return so just like store return you can send it back, just wait a bit longer for ebay.
5) Still curious where the OC phrase came from as you're just increasing the signal rate as these have a separate control box in them that allow a higher refresh rate in which you're telling your video card to send to. That being said, 99% of these from what's been seen online and in this thread, have the ability to hit 96-100hz out of box with no issues, after which is still a high % at least 80+ for hitting 120 and above. Though @ 96/100 people have claimed to see no difference.

So save 200$ and gain the ability of 1440p w/ a higher refresh rate?
or pay 200$ more and stick with 60hz, the refresh rate is the main selling point of these monitors, as well as the lower price for buying roughly the same model, without the extra bells and whistles.

If refresh rate is no matter and you want peace of mind and prefer availability offline, then PB278Q may be for you, I'd still get this monitor anyways due to the savings, only because I'm doing surround and the difference of 600$ is more noticable vs 200$ and I could buy another titan easily with that money.

Hope that helps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jim2point0*
> 
> Hey! Potentially n00b question here. But is there any benefit to overclocking a monitor to 120hz if you generally can't get games to run much faster than 60 FPS?
> 
> 60 FPS has always been my maximum framerate to target because it feels perfect for me. I've been surprised by all the hype around overclocking to 120hz since I discovered this monitor.


Unless you're running outdated hardware or maxing out every single setting possible, you should be easily able to hit more than 60fps in just about any game, with regards to BF4 and 1 - 2 other titles requiring lower settings or more powerful hardware. What game are you having issues with? All mine run at whatever refresh rate I set it too. I preferably run Tombraider @ 100fps as it's gorgeous, but have tested it up to 130 fps as well on 130hz.


----------



## Psychohack

I agree with most of that except #4 of no hassle ebay return. Any return is annoying with mail order and they wont take it back for some reasons.
Its really the OC that attracts me and price second. Otherwise I would buy the Asus. I wish they could OC as easy.
I should mention I just built a 4770k 780ti system. So my 32" Samsung 1080p LED TV just doesnt seem right anymore


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> I agree with most of that except #4 of no hassle ebay return. Any return is annoying with mail order and they wont take it back for some reasons.


thats why I said
Quote:


> 4) Ebay no hassle return so just like store return you can send it back, *just wait a bit longer for ebay*.


Also they have to take it back regardless, hence the ebay buyer protection, you WILL get your money back and or a new model, these guys don't like negative reviews.


----------



## jim2point0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Unless you're running outdated hardware or maxing out every single setting possible, you should be easily able to hit more than 60fps in just about any game, with regards to BF4 and 1 - 2 other titles requiring lower settings or more powerful hardware. What game are you having issues with? All mine run at whatever refresh rate I set it too. I preferably run Tombraider @ 100fps as it's gorgeous, but have tested it up to 130 fps as well on 130hz.


I usually tweak settings and downsample as much as I possibly can in order to get the best image quality possible @ 60 FPS. And having been spoiled by that image quality, I don't think I can drop it in order to squeeze out more frames. To me 60 is perfect. That's why I was wondering if there was still any benefit to overclocking the monitor if you plan on hitting 60 FPS in most games.

I'm sure 120 feels mind-bogglingly amazing, but not if it comes at the cost of aliasing everywhere


----------



## Psychohack

True. I guess the squeeky wheel gets the oil on ebay & paypal. (Personally have over 1100 100% feedback). This is where u almost have to buy the perfect pixel version. So u have more agrument for return If u do end up getting more than one bad pixel
5 pixels might bother me....


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jim2point0*
> 
> I usually tweak settings and downsample as much as I possibly can in order to get the best image quality possible @ 60 FPS. And having been spoiled by that image quality, I don't think I can drop it in order to squeeze out more frames. To me 60 is perfect. That's why I was wondering if there was still any benefit to overclocking the monitor if you plan on hitting 60 FPS in most games.
> 
> I'm sure 120 feels mind-bogglingly amazing, *but not if it comes at the cost of aliasing everywhere*


Welcome to beauty 1440p you need less alias settings due to the immense pixel density, that + you shouldn't need downsampling at this point, remove a few settings and just use antistropic @ 4-8x vs 16x and SMAA off. You'll bee surprised to see hardly any difference. These settings were more for 1080p, I like smooth vs blurred or jagged scenes imo, I just like things to be clear.

I honestly think you should play around lowering and raising settings to see if you can even spot any differences. Granted turning ALL aliasing off you'll see TINY jagged lines in some areas hence why I'm stating you should put a bit of AA or Antistropic. lemme know how it turns out.


----------



## melodystyle2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vatican*
> 
> Guys I just got a QNIX Q2710 Evo II from Red-Cap...I bought the PIXEL Perfect b**** model and it came with no dead pixels sure..but there's SO MUCH backlight bleed. These monitors are such a gamble...I bought a Shimian over a year ago and it had no problems whatsoever and that was a non-pixel perfect version.
> 
> Anyway, I tried contacting Red-Cap and they are not accepting an exchange saying the bleed is considered normal to the...??
> 
> Does this look normal to you? Will the black tape fix even work for this mess? I see like yellow blobs in the bottom center of screen:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Straight away dispute on ebay, don't touch a single screw, this is unacceptable.


----------



## Brien

Just got my QNIX in today.

Switching over from a 5-6 year old Samsung LCD, the black levels are crazy. Perhaps they are too good? Is this something that my eyes will adjust to, because the blacks are pretty intense looking. Using the Samsung ICC profile from the first post.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brien*
> 
> Just got my QNIX in today.
> 
> Switching over from a 5-6 year old Samsung LCD, the black levels are crazy. Perhaps they are too good? Is this something that my eyes will adjust to, because the blacks are pretty intense looking. Using the Samsung ICC profile from the first post.


you think the black leves are that good? are you talking a entire black screen or just blacks in an image? I for one don think the blacks are that special on a all dark screen.


----------



## Brien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> you think the black leves are that good? are you talking a entire black screen or just blacks in an image? I for one don think the blacks are that special on a all dark screen.


The blacks in images. I had a Samsung Syncmaster T240HD that I bought in like 2007, so maybe my eyes just became really used to really crappy blacks?


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brien*
> 
> The blacks in images. I had a Samsung Syncmaster T240HD that I bought in like 2007, so maybe my eyes just became really used to really crappy blacks?


lol that could be. the color do look pretty nice. To me the biggest diffrence is the increase in rez. and screen realeastate.


----------



## Brien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> lol that could be. the color do look pretty nice. To me the biggest diffrence is the increase in rez. and screen realeastate.


My old monitors colors were super washed out, almost yellowish. The biggest change is actually having the intense whites and blacks. Will have to get used to them.


----------



## Jetlitheone

My monitor has I think one dead pixels and 3 tiny dust spots.

Don't know if it's worth taking back but I don't think so since I get 120 on this. And no backlight bleed so I'm guessing I could get much worse.


----------



## Riadon

My monitor arrived from Amazon with no backlight bleeding or dead pixels, but I am unable to overclock it past 81 hz. If I go past 81 hz, a bunch of my pixels turn red and there are dancing horizontal (red) lines. I used NVidia Control Panel to overclock. I will try CRU with LCD reduced and report back.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> My monitor arrived from Amazon with no backlight bleeding or dead pixels, but I am unable to overclock it past 81 hz. If I go past 81 hz, a bunch of my pixels turn red and there are dancing horizontal (red) lines. I used NVidia Control Panel to overclock. I will try CRU with LCD reduced and report back.


Damn, what brand?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *melodystyle2003*
> 
> Straight away dispute on ebay, don't touch a single screw, this is unacceptable.


Another reason why going for pixel perfect is BS.


----------



## ftlum

Hi All.

I was wondering if what looks like a colored sticker on the upper left bezels (especially the X-star's one) comes off.
Also, I was trying to decide between a multi-port vs. single (DVI-D) port display. It looks like the multis have OSDs but don't overclock.
If you don't have an OSD, can everything be configured in software? Also, is overclocking really that useful?

thanks!


----------



## bmancreations

Hey,

So I have been seeing more and more image burn with my montiors, of course it depends on what I am doing.

Is there any solution, change, or anything new to this that might help? Or is the only way to prevent it is to stay on 60hz? I know it's not permanent, but it can be annoying at times.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Damn, what brand?


QNIX QX2710

How do I reset my color management profile to default? I am stuck with a custom setting that doesn't fit my monitor.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> My monitor arrived from Amazon with no backlight bleeding or dead pixels, but I am unable to overclock it past 81 hz. If I go past 81 hz, a bunch of my pixels turn red and there are dancing horizontal (red) lines. I used NVidia Control Panel to overclock. I will try CRU with LCD reduced and report back.


Try a different cable if you have it that doesn't sound good.


----------



## Meteo

just unpacked and setup my X-Star dp2710 and put it through the tests.

no deadpixels as far as I can tell.
120 hrz with no frameskipping
no major backlight bleeding. but not really sure how to measure this. I do notice an overall "glow" when I display a black image on the screen. But Im assuming this is a fault of the panel technology rather than this particular monitor

I bought from dreamseller on ebay for $299

It was a risk and I was prepared to deal with a few dead pixels and some backlight bleeding.
But at 299 for a 1440p 120hrz monitor, this deal cant really be beat
So far extremely happy with the purchase!

Also should I keep it at 120hrz or should I move it back down to 96 to be safe?


----------



## mboner1

So i have been running with 96hz since overclocking and just decided to try and see if i could get 120hz and i can, but my pixel clock is 497, is that dangerously high???


----------



## wabak

Theres a picture of my backlight bleed, will attempt the tape fix if anyone thinks it'd help?

Not that bothered by it so far anyway...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meteo*
> 
> just unpacked and setup my X-Star dp2710 and put it through the tests.
> 
> no deadpixels as far as I can tell.
> 120 hrz with no frameskipping
> no major backlight bleeding. but not really sure how to measure this. I do notice an overall "glow" when I display a black image on the screen. But Im assuming this is a fault of the panel technology rather than this particular monitor
> 
> I bought from dreamseller on ebay for $299
> 
> It was a risk and I was prepared to deal with a few dead pixels and some backlight bleeding.
> But at 299 for a 1440p 120hrz monitor, this deal cant really be beat
> So far extremely happy with the purchase!
> 
> Also should I keep it at 120hrz or should I move it back down to 96 to be safe?


Use a screen saver and you should be fine. If you get some image retention then set the screen to completely black for 5 minutes then white for 5 minutes and it will be gone. I run mine 120hz 24/7.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> So i have been running with 96hz since overclocking and just decided to try and see if i could get 120hz and i can, but my pixel clock is 497, is that dangerously high???


No but it is the stock clock for 120hz. The max normal data rate for these panels PCB is 450mhz. Running yours at 497mhzis an overclocked speed but it is definitely not going to break anything. If you see any side effects they wont be permanent and you can always try optimizing your clocks with my tutorial.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wabak*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theres a picture of my backlight bleed, will attempt the tape fix if anyone thinks it'd help?
> 
> Not that bothered by it so far anyway...


That is not that bad of bleed at all. The tape mod could help some but honestly if i had that panel i would leave it alone.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Use a screen saver and you should be fine. If you get some image retention then set the screen to completely black for 5 minutes then white for 5 minutes and it will be gone. I run mine 120hz 24/7.
> No but it is the stock clock for 120hz. The max normal data rate for these panels PCB is 450mhz. Running yours at 497mhzis an overclocked speed but it is definitely not going to break anything. If you see any side effects they wont be permanent and you can always try optimizing your clocks with my tutorial.


Cheers man, i just googled and found that. Are those stock timings of yours going to have any impact on image quality? It appears to look a little different on mine compared to the stock timings is all.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Cheers man, i just googled and found that. Are those stock timings of yours going to have any impact on image quality? It appears to look a little different on mine compared to the stock timings is all.


Yes the higher the pixel clock is technically above the 450mhz mark the more side effects you will have. Every panel is different and you may have no side effects at all. The gamma shift will be apparent but calibration can fix that. The effects you want to look for is mainly artifacts/lines or panel uniformity. Try putting a completely white background on and see if the brightness is uniform across the screen, if it is your good, if not then work your timings a bit.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yes the higher the pixel clock is technically above the 450mhz mark the more side effects you will have. Every panel is different and you may have no side effects at all. The gamma shift will be apparent but calibration can fix that. The effects you want to look for is mainly artifacts/lines or panel uniformity. Try putting a completely white background on and see if the brightness is uniform across the screen, if it is your good, if not then work your timings a bit.


Well if the only concern with such a high pixel clock is side effects then i will just stick with it because so far i'm not having any. I will have to recalibrate with my spyder elite, i will put the icc profile on here a bit later, it will be for max brightness 120hz, not sure who it was but someone asked me to do one for 120hz before so yeaha.

EDIT. Change of plans , going with 110hz as it keeps pixel clock under 450 so i won't be uploading it as i can't see a 110hz icc profile being useful for many people. If anyone wants it i will upload it.


----------



## Riadon

I opened "color management" calibration for a couple of seconds, and without making any changes or even pressing "next", the colors on my screen suddenly became washed out, my screen became overly bright, and contrast disappeared. How do I reset to the default color settings? The display is fine on my other computer.


----------



## spiritfly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ftlum*
> 
> Hi All.
> 
> I was wondering if what looks like a colored sticker on the upper left bezels (especially the X-star's one) comes off.
> Also, I was trying to decide between a multi-port vs. single (DVI-D) port display. It looks like the multis have OSDs but don't overclock.
> If you don't have an OSD, can everything be configured in software? Also, is overclocking really that useful?
> 
> thanks!


I'm still thinking over this too and I still can't decide what version to get since I'm gaming only occasionally. I have never owned a 120hz, but from what I've understand 120Hz should only be noticeable in fast games with a lot of movement. Apparently some people with sensitive eyes(sensitive to Hz or something..) could notice the difference even on the desktop and having a 120Hz monitor doesn't strain their eyes as much.

If there IS such a thing as sensitive eyes to monitor Hz I definitely consider myself one. So although I don't game much, I still lean more towards the single DVI-D port display just because of that. But then again whether the monitor is going to be overclock-able is still a question of luck even though it's a single DVI-D port version.

What do you guys think about non-gamers? Should we get single dvi-d version or multi-port version with OSD of this monitor?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Here is i very common quite well working timings set. you might also try setting the vertical front porch and syn width to 1(has helped in the past).
> 
> 
> DVI cable research....Another cable is always worth trying but don't buy any expensive brand name crap:
> ____________
> This is more of an electrical argument than a research game. Any dual link DVI cable has a certain data rate that it is capable of and the size of the cable in terms of thickness is more about voltage over a distance. The thicker the cable the longer you can potentially send the data signal without data degradation. With overclocking you are pushing that data rate to its limits and cable quality does make a difference but it is not so much dependent of size, but is more on distance. The length of time the data is carried and the quality of the cable are the two main factors where size is a compensation for the length of time or distance the data is carried.
> 
> With this being said it is more important to get a very good quality short cable. If the thicker cables seem to have better results that would be worth considering in terms of how well the particular cables are made. The same could be said for a very short thin cable from a certain seller. This is why there are mixed reviews as no cable is equal(same as the monitor). The one thing that does show a very constant positive result is a shorter cable.
> 
> Over many of the tests i have done anything over 6ft seemed to have degraded results in stability per refresh regardless of the thickness. I originally bought 3 24AWG monoprice cables which had completely mixed results with one worse, one equal, and one better than the stock cable. After doing this i went up to work and tested about 30 DVI cables with the only constant positive factor being length.
> 
> After it was all said and done i found a random old DVI cable in a box at work that had no bells or whistles on ends, 24AWG and barely 3ft long that gave me the best results by a good margin(about 7hz over the best monoprice cable totaling 153hz). So go shorter than 6ft (as every cable i tried over 6ft barely hit 108hz) and get a few to try. Cables are not that expensive and if you have a few gamer friends there is likely several you can borrow and try to get the best overclock and don't worry too much about thickness.
> ____________


I see you are very dedicated for the research of these monitors. I thank you for your contribution (+ Rep) and I also thank you for posting some other settings that the majority can use. These work great and now I have absolutely no artifacts. My previous timings gave me an artifact (seen in dark situations) every couple of minutes.


----------



## Meteo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiritfly*
> 
> I'm still thinking over this too and I still can't decide what version to get since I'm gaming only occasionally. I have never owned a 120hz, but from what I've understand 120Hz should only be noticeable in fast games with a lot of movement. Apparently some people with sensitive eyes(sensitive to Hz or something..) could notice the difference even on the desktop and having a 120Hz monitor doesn't strain their eyes as much.
> 
> If there IS such a thing as sensitive eyes to monitor Hz I definitely consider myself one. So although I don't game much, I still lean more towards the single DVI-D port display just because of that. But then again whether the monitor is going to be overclock-able is still a question of luck even though it's a single DVI-D port version.
> 
> What do you guys think about non-gamers? Should we get single dvi-d version or multi-port version with OSD of this monitor?


120hz is not just for games. I can also easily see flickering @ 60 hz when seeing using my peripheral vision. Happens with my phone too. When I oced from 60 to 120hz, everything was smoother eg dragging windows, moving the mouse cursor. I can easily see the mouse "skipping" when I move my mouse cursor at 60hz. At 120hz its hardly noticeable. Like you're moving a physical mouse pointer across the screen.


----------



## spiritfly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meteo*
> 
> 120hz is not just for games. When I oced from 60 to 120hz, everything was smoother eg dragging windows, moving the mouse cursor. I can easily see the mouse "skipping" when I move my mouse cursor at 60hz. At 120hz its hardly noticeable. Like you're moving a physical mouse pointer across the screen.


Thanks for confirming this. I will definitely go for the overclockable edition now. I do spend a lot of time reading online stuff and many times when I'm quite focused on the content I often find myself scrolling down while still trying to catch the next line in the text and so the text gets blurred during the scrolling. This blurring gives me headaches and makes me turn away from my monitor.

Now I guess this won't be a problem with a 120Hz and in fact I will be ordering one it right now!


----------



## Jetlitheone

After seeing the backlight bleed some if you guys have I think I'm gonna deal with the 3 tiny pieces of dust in the screen. Although it annoys me knowing they're there (can't see it easily since they're small and I don't sit an inch from my monitor) I think every monitor has at least one problem. Do if I were to return this or something I'm sure I'll get a worse one or something... Idk what do you guys think? There's two just a little size if a pixel and one like diagonal about 4cm big. 2 in middle of screen one just above task bar in bottom right


----------



## lightsout

You can take the glass off and clean it if you want to go that route.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Or should I get square trade . How does that even work


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> You can take the glass off and clean it if you want to go that route.


It's a matte finish one


----------



## lightsout

Really and you think there's something in the panel? Never heard of that. That sucks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> You can take the glass off and clean it if you want to go that route.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a matte finish one
Click to expand...


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Really and you think there's something in the panel? Never heard of that. That sucks.


No I think it's a pressure spot from shipping. All my matte screens have had it. Can only see it on pure white so I guess I'll just deal with it and take that I got an otherwise great monitor lol:thumb:


----------



## lightsout

Oh I see. Man I'm still dying to test mine it's sitting in the box. Saturday!!!


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oh I see. Man I'm still dying to test mine it's sitting in the box. Saturday!!!


Lol depending on what you're coming from. These things looks amazing. 120hz is so slick as well


----------



## LunaP

Anyone get issues when scrolling on forums or other things, and sometimes seeing your text slightly lag behind while you're typing? I highly doubt its related to the monitor, just started around the same time.


----------



## MGMG8GT

So I guess OC ability is not 100% monitor based. My 7950 could do 120hz no problems. My 780ti cannot. Max 110hz.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oh I see. Man I'm still dying to test mine it's sitting in the box. Saturday!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Lol depending on what you're coming from. These things looks amazing. 120hz is so slick as well
Click to expand...

I had a shimian. One of the early IPS Korean monitors. Was in love with it but it broke. Been on some ancient Westinghouse 1200p forever that is on its last leg. I'm ready.


----------



## bmancreations

Can anyone explain why the bezels are so off?

I have two of these wall mounted, going to be a third, but the more I angle the side monitor (towards me) it just does not line up with the center monitor, its just off?

Shouldn't it line up perfectly? If I get the top of them to match, the bottom will be wrong....makes no sense?


----------



## fouBelieve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I had a shimian. One of the early IPS Korean monitors. Was in love with it but it broke. Been on some ancient Westinghouse 1200p forever that is on its last leg. I'm ready.


Just curious, how did it break?
I was worried that these korean monitors will slowly die out within 1-2 years due to cheap parts.
Then I read of some people saying their monitors died within 4 months-1 year or so...

But the price was too good, I purchased 2 for a dual monitor set up.

Now I'm worried again, aha.


----------



## lightsout

Haha no you don't need to worry. At least not on account of me. My monitor was only a few weeks old. Huge fight at home. I was in the wrong. Long story short my wife punched the monitor about six times lmao. So yeah. That sucked. We've since made up







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I had a shimian. One of the early IPS Korean monitors. Was in love with it but it broke. Been on some ancient Westinghouse 1200p forever that is on its last leg. I'm ready.
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious, how did it break?
> I was worried that these korean monitors will slowly die out within 1-2 years due to cheap parts.
> Then I read of some people saying their monitors died within 4 months-1 year or so...
> 
> But the price was too good, I purchased 2 for a dual monitor set up.
> 
> Now I'm worried again, aha.
Click to expand...


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Haha no you don't need to worry. At least not on account of me. My monitor was only a few weeks old. Huge fight at home. I was in the wrong. Long story short my wife punched the monitor about six times lmao. So yeah. That sucked. We've since made up


Haha, she knew what to attack to hurt you then lol.


----------



## lightsout

Lol exactly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Haha no you don't need to worry. At least not on account of me. My monitor was only a few weeks old. Huge fight at home. I was in the wrong. Long story short my wife punched the monitor about six times lmao. So yeah. That sucked. We've since made up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, she knew what to attack to hurt you then lol.
Click to expand...


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Haha no you don't need to worry. At least not on account of me. My monitor was only a few weeks old. Huge fight at home. I was in the wrong. Long story short my wife punched the monitor about six times lmao. So yeah. That sucked. We've since made up


lol man. I'm so sorry. But that is too funny


----------



## jim2point0

So when you're calibrating contrast during windows calibration, do you just skip contrast on the QNIX? Because there's no way to adjust that...


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Haha no you don't need to worry. At least not on account of me. My monitor was only a few weeks old. Huge fight at home. I was in the wrong. Long story short my wife punched the monitor about six times lmao. So yeah. That sucked. We've since made up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol man. I'm so sorry. But that is too funny
Click to expand...

Ha its all good I laugh about it too. Finally got my replacement though.


----------



## passinos

Sorry if this was talked about already.
Is there a 30" Version of a Qnix or X-star that OCs to 120hz?


----------



## NitrousX

So it seems that if you apply ToastyX's full patch (required for SLI and CFX users) it will break HDCP support - meaning you won't be able to play Blurays anymore. Do you guys think there will ever be a workaround to this issue?


----------



## Psychohack

Finally got a best offer counter offer on a pixel perfect QNIX for $319....now I just have to decide on this or the ASUS. I have heard the ASUS can be overclocked to 85 Hz.....but still $550 with tax...better stand and bezel, same panel I think, probably slower response time, could have it tonight, can return it the next day if I don't like it.....choices choices.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Sorry if this was talked about already.
> Is there a 30" Version of a Qnix or X-star that OCs to 120hz?


There is not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> So it seems that if you apply ToastyX's full patch (required for SLI and CFX users) it will break HDCP support - meaning you won't be able to play Blurays anymore. Do you guys think there will ever be a workaround to this issue?


Watch blueray content and not blueray discs. There are plenty of avenues to do this legally. I keep bloated DVD and Blueray discs with excessive copyright software away form my PC. It also says this in the notes for the patch.


----------



## Luminouslight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> Finally got a best offer counter offer on a pixel perfect QNIX for $319....now I just have to decide on this or the ASUS. I have heard the ASUS can be overclocked to 85 Hz.....but still $550 with tax...better stand and bezel, same panel I think, probably slower response time, could have it tonight, can return it the next day if I don't like it.....choices choices.


Even if you get a pixel perfect, there can still be defects aside from Backlight Bleed. My monitor gets a single "faded" vertical line on certain colors the higher I overclock my monitor. Being at 72 Hz, it isn't visible, but if is 120Hz it becomes quite visible. Just know while there is a chance at greater reward, there is also greater risk as well.

That and I have a single dead pixel but that doesn't bother me that much as it is away near a corner of the screen.


----------



## Psychohack

These are the reasons I am still considering the local available asus at 499 plus tax......I have to go there tonight anyway. Hoping they have one on display. Last week they were out if them and none on display.


----------



## LunaP

Ha! The luck of getting 2 monitors in a row w/ a color off balance of the same type !









Oh well 5th times the charm amirite?









So it seems some have warm filters and others have cool filters (effects)


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There is not.
> Watch blueray content and not blueray discs. There are plenty of avenues to do this legally. I keep bloated DVD and Blueray discs with excessive copyright software away form my PC. It also says this in the notes for the patch.


I can play Bluray 1080P MKV's just fine (using VLC) but when I stick Bluray movies into my computer and try to play them with PowerDVD or TotalMedia Theatre I get an HDCP error message.

The intent of my question is whether or not there will ever be a workaround for HDCP for those using ToastyX's full patch.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> These are the reasons I am still considering the local available asus at 499 plus tax......I have to go there tonight anyway. Hoping they have one on display. Last week they were out if them and none on display.


I have both the qnix and the pb278q and cannot game on the asus...lol it hurts my eyes literaly esp on battlefield jeese it does....with my qnix above 80hz usually 96hz its way easier on my eyes and enjoyable no doubt.


----------



## Psychohack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> I have both the qnix and the pb278q and cannot game on the asus...lol it hurts my eyes literaly esp on battlefield jeese it does....with my qnix above 80hz usually 96hz its way easier on my eyes and enjoyable no doubt.


Did you overclock the Asus though? I read it can do 80-85hz?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ha! The luck of getting 2 monitors in a row w/ a color off balance of the same type !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well 5th times the charm amirite?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it seems some have warm filters and others have cool filters (effects)


How are you exchanging these? lol

and how much is shipping to Korea ?!


----------



## jim2point0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> EDIT: I would also like to note if you do not get to 60hz and only get something like 55~58hz then it will not be a standard refresh per your EDID(so it will not show up in games). Normally many downsampling people will tell you to manually hack the EDID to include the odd refresh but you can also add a native offset refresh to CRU. For example if your 4K downsample is 57hz and it does not show up in games then add a custome resolution in CRU for [email protected] This is an in-direct way of "hacking" the EDID(which i find MUCH easier as it is like 6 steps instead of two more applications and 36 steps). After there is a native resolution with that refresh windows will now see it as a standard refresh thus displaying it in games and the windows resolution selector and displaying it for all intermediary resolutions(including your 4K downsample).


Sorry to bug you again. I used your 4K timings to create a 4K resolution on my system. So it's 55hz.

I then went into CRU (first time using this) and created a 2560x1440 resolution @ 55hz as well. Though in the drop-down list, I see "HYO049B - Dual-DVI" twice. The first entry has "(restart required)" next to it. Should I add this resolution to both of those?

After adding that in CRU, I still can't select the 4K resolution or the 2560x1440 @ 55hz in Windows


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> How are you exchanging these? lol
> 
> and how much is shipping to Korea ?!


Free, I just go to DHL and request a pick up date, then fill out the invoice and set it to charge to the seller. They already picked up the last one.

Not sure what happenned but my monitors now act like they're @ 96+ hz when @ 60. Meaning the brightness/gamma is lower than it was so I have to adjust it. Only annoying thing is that Nvidia sometimes confuses the 3 monitors as the same one and certain settings I apply to one apply to all.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jim2point0*
> 
> Sorry to bug you again. I used your 4K timings to create a 4K resolution on my system. So it's 55hz.
> 
> I then went into CRU (first time using this) and created a 2560x1440 resolution @ 55hz as well. Though in the drop-down list, I see "HYO049B - Dual-DVI" twice. The first entry has "(restart required)" next to it. Should I add this resolution to both of those?
> 
> After adding that in CRU, I still can't select the 4K resolution or the 2560x1440 @ 55hz in Windows


Generally in CRU you will see all the driver sets that exist for monitors that are or "were" attached to your computer at any time. Like a safe mode device manager this will be overbloated with old entries. However in CRU you will see a "*" next to each display that is "active". You want your custom resolution entries to be under active displays so they are actually seen and used. It will not hurt to have your settings under both an active and non active display but it is unneeded.

Depending on if you added this custom resolution to an active display is whether you will see it in windows or not.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Spartan ive been running 96hz @ 1100 core for awhile now on stock volts on my card and no issues. So I think ill bump it up to 110hz soon and see if I can get that to work, if not ill just go down to 96 for the future.


----------



## Jacoblab

Does this mean I overclocked right? I didn't see any gamma change like I have heard of happening when you overclock the panel


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> Does this mean I overclocked right? I didn't see any gamma change like I have heard of happening when you overclock the panel


Yes that means your running properly. You can see the gamma shift by switching back and forth from 60hz to 120hz, if you see no gamma shift or darkening when doing that you must have a really good panel.


----------



## jim2point0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Generally in CRU you will see all the driver sets that exist for monitors that are or "were" attached to your computer at any time. Like a safe mode device manager this will be overbloated with old entries. However in CRU you will see a "*" next to each display that is "active". You want your custom resolution entries to be under active displays so they are actually seen and used. It will not hurt to have your settings under both an active and non active display but it is unneeded.


THANKS! Finally got it working. 4K showing up in games now =) I'll go add one to your mountain of rep


----------



## Xenzeus

Hey guys, I'm about to order a glossy qnix displayport from accessorieswhole and just wondering that If I still would be able to OC with displayport.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenzeus*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm about to order a glossy qnix displayport from accessorieswhole and just wondering that If I still would be able to OC with displayport.


I don't think you can..

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenzeus*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm about to order a glossy qnix displayport from accessorieswhole and just wondering that If I still would be able to OC with displayport.


No you can't and it is a real shame that you can't since DP has the highest data rate of any of the ports currently out. I have a Qnix DP model for my wife since she connects her MAC to it as well and could not overclock with the DP at all.


----------



## Xenzeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I don't think you can..
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> No you can't and it is a real shame that you can't since DP has the highest data rate of any of the ports currently out. I have a Qnix DP model for my wife since she connects her MAC to it as well and could not overclock with the DP at all.


Well, that's suck. I thought the fact dp is better than dvi means it can do everything dvi does. Thankfully, I haven't ordered it yet. Thanks guys.


----------



## Psychohack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xenzeus*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm about to order a glossy qnix displayport from accessorieswhole and just wondering that If I still would be able to OC with displayport.


Just so you know, thats a matte panel with a piece of glass.....so no glossy advantages. ...confirmed with seller because I was looking at the same one.


----------



## fouBelieve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Haha no you don't need to worry. At least not on account of me. My monitor was only a few weeks old. Huge fight at home. I was in the wrong. Long story short my wife punched the monitor about six times lmao. So yeah. That sucked. We've since made up


Hahaha that is too funny, thanks and hope you're enjoying the new monitor







haha

Does anyone know if you can do a no pixel test without an actual GPU? Im waiting for the non reference 290s but have ordered my monitors, will the no pixel test work with the on board graphics? Im worried if it cant display at that resolution then it doesnt fill all pixels to test or something?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Ha! The luck of getting 2 monitors in a row w/ a color off balance of the same type !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well 5th times the charm amirite?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it seems some have warm filters and others have cool filters (effects)


Why not buy a colorimeter and use it to calibrate all the monitors? Then they'll look more alike than ever before. It's not practical to keep trying your luck for another monitor in the hopes of getting ones that are close in color, that's not logical. There are loads of colorimeters out there, like the Spyder4 (Express, skip the higher packages) or the X-Rite i1 Display Pro (higher-end) or the ColorMunki Display (same sensor as the i1DP apparently, takes longer to measure, and no SDK made available --> usable only with 3rd-party software that offer reverse-engineered support aka HCFR + ArgyllCMS).

If you opt for any of these except the i1DP you can use 3rd-party software with them and save the cost of getting the respective company's software. Also doable with the i1DP as 3rd-party software, paid and non-paid, is quite excellent. I use ArgyllCMS myself on a Spyder4Express.


----------



## bmancreations

Now having three of these monitors at 96hz, I am quite happy.

My only concern is with the whole 4K stuff being shown etc...

I am assuming my next set of monitors are going to be 30" 4K 120Hz or better. Does anyone know what kind of timeframe we are talking about for monitors like this (at least for the price ranges we see with these Korean monitors?)....

Just wondering how long these 27"s I have will last me lol


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Why not buy a colorimeter and use it to calibrate all the monitors? Then they'll look more alike than ever before. It's not practical to keep trying your luck for another monitor in the hopes of getting ones that are close in color, that's not logical. There are loads of colorimeters out there, like the Spyder4 (Express, skip the higher packages) or the X-Rite i1 Display Pro (higher-end) or the ColorMunki Display (same sensor as the i1DP apparently, takes longer to measure, and no SDK made available --> usable only with 3rd-party software that offer reverse-engineered support aka HCFR + ArgyllCMS).
> 
> If you opt for any of these except the i1DP you can use 3rd-party software with them and save the cost of getting the respective company's software. Also doable with the i1DP as 3rd-party software, paid and non-paid, is quite excellent. I use ArgyllCMS myself on a Spyder4Express.


Cuz it's easier to just have 3 that are the same, I have 2 that are the same first try with both just these other 2 have been the same so next one should fix it, + I'm replacing them all with real gloss ones anyways.

2nd, people are reporting that the color profiles aren't working in games, and other things, so vs having to custom load, that + the ICM I load on one loads across them , as they're all diff, they don't seem to keep their own, this is just one issue I'm seeing currently, not sure where the issue lies but hope its with nvidia and fixed later.

More logical this way, and less expensive. If the color's off there no reason for me to keep it just to pay 60-130$ for a device I'm only gonna use once to fix or push a defect that still will not match up perfectly without additional work and even then will still be off due to the imbalance should it be washed out. THAT is illogical. Customer satisfaction all the way.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> Cuz it's easier to just have 3 that are the same, I have 2 that are the same first try with both just these other 2 have been the same so next one should fix it, + I'm replacing them all with real gloss ones anyways.
> 
> 2nd, people are reporting that the color profiles aren't working in games, and other things, so vs having to custom load, that + the ICM I load on one loads across them , as they're all diff, they don't seem to keep their own, this is just one issue I'm seeing currently, not sure where the issue lies but hope its with nvidia and fixed later.
> 
> More logical this way, and less expensive. If the color's off there no reason for me to keep it just to pay 60-130$ for a device I'm only gonna use once to fix or push a defect that still will not match up perfectly without additional work and even then will still be off due to the imbalance should it be washed out. THAT is illogical. Customer satisfaction all the way.


Hoo boy.

How exactly are you calibrating your monitors, by eye? At 120Hz? Well, good luck. Because the gamma shift is not really a gamma shift equally at all points but rather one that requires multi-point gamma calibration, aka like the vast majority of gamma errors.

Huge efforts are made to color-match produced content on hugely expensive monitors like NECs, Eizos, HP, Dells, etc... so that the content displays the colors the creator of such content wants you to see and you blow it all by moving a slider that you think fixes something and messes up pretty much everything else. You'll be getting an inaccurate whitepoint, inaccurate gamma, inaccurate grayscale, inaccurate colors, banding, etc... the works. While you think that "looks good", it doesn't. You'll know what looks good when you take a look at a calibrated monitor.

The Qnix drifts, it drifts colors rapidly when it is overclocked; one user here reported that he had to recalibrate once every month @60Hz, once every week or so @ 120Hz IIRC. I've been noticing my gamma being off since the first time I made a profile and set it to work, which used to give me almost perfect results (gamma ~2.19-2.21 IIRC) rather than the nasty 2.64 @ 96Hz and something like 2.93 @ 110Hz which is poo. You won't use the colorimeter once, you'll be using it regularly, and to complain about $90-130 (the Spyder4Express costs $80 now btw...) is not too logical...you have 3 Titans, 3 Qnixes going back and forth, and the seller is pretty much paying that sort of money for return shipping.

Customer satisfaction all the way, but Anal Customer Disorder is another thing entirely, especially when you're blowing all that effort by calibrating "by eye" and messing up the colors that you so much desired to get matched. These sellers are nice, but it's actions like these that lock down return policies and make them more suspicious of us. I don't remember a seller asking a customer to show them the dead pixel they got with a perfect pixel policy, but now accessorieswhole did when I told them I have a blue stuck pixel left of center. It's their right to ask for proof but obviously they have lost that customer - seller trust that used to exist just a while ago.

Save yourself the hassle, listen to proper advice, and go for a colorimeter so that you get your gamma accurate, your whites accurate, and your colors fantastic. I mean, I have a single monitor and having accurate colors is very very important, especially at 110Hz where the high gamma induces some sort of black crush (as mboner up there used to say, which is true) which makes sense as now the lower end of the grayscale is closer together when gamma > standard gamma = 2.2 (and the opposite is true, upper end grays are mashed when gamma < 2.2 which happens when you raise the gamma slider).

You have 3 monitors. A colorimeter itself has trouble matching these monitors due to variance, *let alone* being able to match them by eye.

For the second point, applying color profiles works when using MCW, Color Profile Keeper, or Color Clutch. No idea if some people simply don't have any way to enforce color profiles with Nvidia, but for other it works and that means there's a chance of PEBKAC and / or certain drivers messing up, a problem which I wouldn't bet on lasting forever if anything. I myself am in the process of making a color profile tool (no details now) using Color Clutch to preserve the color profiles in 3D application mode so if Color Clutch works for you (you need to test, if it works for you then there's no reason to worry about the color profiles not working in games. Obviously), there you go.

There's no "washed out", it's simply the case that some panels have yellow tints, others have blue tints. It's perfectly normal and would easily happen with other branded monitors. Heck, the Catleaps / Crossovers and the IPS variants have more variance than these PLS panels, you would have had a heart attack if you were going for the IPS variants.


----------



## Jinru

First person to PM me get my 35% off Square Trade coupon for their Qnix/Xstar.

edit: gone


----------



## Spartan F8

Unless your doing professional graphics of some sort or use your computer for color determinant work then there is no reason to go buy a 60-400 dollar color calibrator. Yes it will be off but if you calibrate by your "eye" then it is your preference. If your not doing anything that needs to be 100% accurate who cares.

I have a spyder calibrator and yes there was an increase in accuracy when using it over the manual calibration. But for everyday use and gaming it is not worth it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Unless your doing professional graphics of some sort or use your computer for color determinant work then there is no reason to go buy a 60-400 dollar color calibrator. Yes it will be off but if you calibrate by your "eye" then it is your preference. If your not doing anything that needs to be 100% accurate who cares.
> 
> I have a spyder calibrator and yes there was an increase in accuracy when using it over the manual calibration. But for everyday use and gaming it is not worth it.


60-400 is a very wide range. I'm sure 80 is good for those who just want a casual calibration. It is definitely worth it for me and mostly the owners of the ~19 devices for whom I have calibrated their displays. For gaming it's made a difference as well. I used to really like how the grass looked in BF3 when the calibration profile was enabled. It looked fantastic. Eye calibration is never accurate, it's easily shown to introduce more trouble than it's worth. What looks good to you today might not look good to you the next day, as what the eye "sees" will vary based on the condition you are in.

When you've splashed out on a 300+ monitor, and GPUs worth way more than that to drive 1440p 120Hz, and a computer that will ensure suitable operation for everything, $80 is a paltry sum to be paid to ensure all your refresh rates look about as accurate as each other and all your monitors look almost the same, which will be impossible to do by eye already.

But I'm sure you already know that as you have a colorimeter yourself.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> *Hoo boy.* <--- Biggest issue right here
> 
> *How exactly are you calibrating your monitors, by eye? At 120Hz? Well, good luck. Because the gamma shift is not really a gamma shift equally at all points but rather one that requires multi-point gamma calibration, aka like the vast majority of gamma errors.*
> 
> Huge efforts are made to color-match produced content on hugely expensive monitors like NECs, Eizos, HP, Dells, etc... so that the content displays the colors the creator of such content wants you to see and you blow it all by moving a slider that you think fixes something and messes up pretty much everything else. You'll be getting an inaccurate whitepoint, inaccurate gamma, inaccurate grayscale, inaccurate colors, banding, etc... the works. While you think that "looks good", it doesn't. You'll know what looks good when you take a look at a calibrated monitor.
> 
> The Qnix drifts, *it drifts colors rapidly when it is overclocked;* one user here reported that he had to recalibrate once every month @60Hz, once every week or so @ 120Hz IIRC. I've been noticing my gamma being off since the first time I made a profile and set it to work, which used to give me almost perfect results (gamma ~2.19-2.21 IIRC) rather than the nasty 2.64 @ 96Hz and something like 2.93 @ 110Hz which is poo. You won't use the colorimeter once, you'll be using it regularly, and to complain about $90-130 (the Spyder4Express costs $80 now btw...) is not too logical...you have 3 Titans, 3 Qnixes going back and forth, and the seller is pretty much paying that sort of money for return shipping.
> 
> Customer satisfaction all the way, *but Anal Customer Disorder is another thing entirely, especially when you're blowing all that effort by calibrating "by eye" and messing up the colors that you so much desired to get matched. These sellers are nice, but it's actions like these that lock down return policies and make them more suspicious of us.* I don't remember a seller asking a customer to show them the dead pixel they got with a perfect pixel policy, but now accessorieswhole did when I told them I have a blue stuck pixel left of center. It's their right to ask for proof but obviously they have lost that customer - seller trust that used to exist just a while ago.
> 
> Save yourself the hassle, listen to proper advice, and go for a colorimeter so that you get your gamma accurate, your whites accurate, and your colors fantastic. I mean, I have a single monitor and having accurate colors is very very important, especially at 110Hz where the high gamma induces some sort of black crush (as mboner up there used to say, which is true) which makes sense as now the lower end of the grayscale is closer together when gamma > standard gamma = 2.2 (and the opposite is true, upper end grays are mashed when gamma < 2.2 which happens when you raise the gamma slider).
> 
> You have 3 monitors. A colorimeter itself has trouble matching these monitors due to variance, *let alone* being able to match them by eye.
> 
> For the second point, applying color profiles works when using MCW, Color Profile Keeper, or Color Clutch. No idea if some people simply don't have any way to enforce color profiles with Nvidia, but for other it works and that means there's a chance of PEBKAC and / or certain drivers messing up, a problem which I wouldn't bet on lasting forever if anything. I myself am in the process of making a color profile tool (no details now) using Color Clutch to preserve the color profiles in 3D application mode so if Color Clutch works for you (you need to test, if it works for you then there's no reason to worry about the color profiles not working in games. Obviously), there you go.
> 
> There's no "washed out", it's simply the case that some panels have yellow tints, others have blue tints. It's perfectly normal and would easily happen with other branded monitors. Heck, the Catleaps / Crossovers and the IPS variants have more variance than these PLS panels, you would have had a heart attack if you were going for the IPS variants.[/spoiler]


Seems like there's a big misunderstanding and you're explaining your side of the story all of a sudden.

1) It's not an issue w/ overclock, nor did I say I was, I stated I was @ the default 60hz, but apparently you're jumping over and reading key words.
2) It's a BIG issue w/ one color being offset, maybe more.
3) I have 2 monitors that are perfect as is out of box not needing calibration
4) This is the 2nd one just a diff color off
5) I'm aware this happens especially w/ these being panels that don't make it to real production
6) Yes Colors can be washed out, stating that's not possible is ending the conversation stating you're arguing to argue, some panels have it others don't IT HAPPENS.
7) Again I'm not buying a device for a 1 time use, if its defective for one then there's no reason to resell it why give someone else the same grief? Srsly?
7) Ask questions first before you start assuming a huge story and starting drama in the thread, the last person that did it trolled on for 3 pages getting everyone riled up over a misunderstanding because they read TOO fast, which you're demonstrating by ignoring my previous posts.

You can preach all you want and you're MOST welcome to keep w/e defective panel you get and make the best of it, but I on the other hand will at least make sure I get one I can work with. You've no idea what I'm doing or trying, but you just wrote all that out of anger because you "assumed" I guarantee if you had a monitor with awful tint or washed colors you wouldn't sit there and calibrate it to match your others and be like" I feel bad for the seller so I'll just forfeit the buying experience and keep it"

This thread doesn't need drama or flame posts, it's for people to post their success or failures and reattempts as they love this monitor...jesus

Calm down and ask next time, I didn't bother reading all of it after the first few paragraphs and especially after the name calling and flaming. Good day sir, hope you feel better.


----------



## yasamoka

My, you're dense.

Once you start overclocking these monitors, you'll run into further issues with keeping the colors matching and looking good.

Suit yourself, I'm out.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> My, you're dense.
> 
> Once you start overclocking these monitors, you'll run into further issues with keeping the colors matching and looking good.
> 
> Suit yourself, I'm out.


And apparently you can't read, or fail to communicate , if this convo was meant to be one sided just say it, nothing wrong w/ being wrong, my point is not to call you out, it's to settle you down to keep you from getting riled up and jumping to conclusions before reading. People who believe they know everything are really bad at being responded to and don't expect people to respond with anything other than "sorry or ok thx"

Again you've no clue what I've done or did, I have settings for the monitors @ 96 and 110hz they look beautiful. But you didn't read that either, you're to damn busy being defensive, so go cool off then come back. Apology accepted. Have a GREAT day


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaP*
> 
> And apparently you can't read, or fail to communicate , if this convo was meant to be one sided just say it, nothing wrong w/ being wrong, my point is not to call you out, it's to settle you down to keep you from getting riled up and jumping to conclusions before reading.
> 
> Again you've no clue what I've done or did, I have settings for the monitors @ 96 and 110hz they look beautiful. But you didn't read that either, you're to damn busy being defensive, so go cool off then come back. Apology accepted. Have a GREAT day


Oh I can read, I bet you. I also know what I'm doing.

But calling two monitors "perfect" and another one "washed-out" explains clearly that you understand how these things work. Because one will have a much smaller color gamut than the others, right? And there's no more need for calibration since they're perfect.

I don't have to read everything you say to give my opinion. My opinion still applies no matter what you have done, did, or will do.


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Oh I can read, I bet you. I also know what I'm doing.
> 
> But calling two monitors "perfect" and another one "washed-out" explains clearly that you understand how these things work. Because one will have a much smaller color gamut than the others, right? And there's no more need for calibration since they're perfect.
> 
> I don't have to read everything you say to give my opinion. My opinion still applies no matter what you have done, did, or will do.










All I'm reading is troll and I thought you were out. You're not giving your opinion you're stating it like you have facts and you're flaming and name calling which shows you're angry, which goes back to the original statement. Thank you for proving my point that you're not reading, this is the entire reason why you're angry because you're failing to do the simple part.

Assuming I don't know anything is great, keep that mentality up and see where it gets you in life. Apparently YOU don't know what you're talking about because apparently you don't have any issues whatsoever, so everyone should just keep anything failed that they have. You're just arguing for the sake of arguing, I've never seen a person so dense.

Apparently working w/ professional displays and in the art industry as well and dealing w/ electronics and MULTIPLE monitors at a time, including those at work and other places gives me NO room to state whether something is washed out or not. I think you need to start educating yourself.


----------



## Spartan F8

take this little argument to a PM chat


----------



## Jetlitheone

Someone wanna give me an icc profile for 120hz? Thanks!


----------



## LunaP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> take this little argument to a PM chat


I asked him too but he refutes so w/e I added him to the ignore list. No point in fueling his flaming.


----------



## asuka10456

Anywhere I can order a normal glossy from? I have one that is glossy without the tempered glass, not sure how big the difference would be if they sit next to each other. Also anyone knows if there would be any issues using 2 of these at 120hz with a GTX 760(ASUS GTX760-DC2OC-2GD5)?

Weird thing is, I was only able to have a stable 115hz with a PowerColor HD 7950 but with the GTX 760, 120hz is running fine.


----------



## caenlen

http://puu.sh/5TvZD.jpg anyone know where we can download the yamakasi driver for the monitor? hotfile has been taken down.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> http://puu.sh/5TvZD.jpg anyone know where we can download the yamakasi driver for the monitor? hotfile has been taken down.


 qnix.zip 0k .zip file


catleap.zip 1k .zip file


----------



## the9quad

Got tired of not being able to just throw in a blu-ray and press play. So, I went back to 80 hz for gaming (closest number to the 330 pixel clock limit) and 72 hz for movies. Still nice, but I really wish AMD would get their heads out of their tushes and bump that limit up to at least 450.


----------



## prostreetcamaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> catleap.zip 1k .zip file


Just curious what is the benefit of these drivers over the generic driver windows uses?

BTW got my monitor yesterday and it has no backlight bleed and no dead or stuck pixels. I have it at 120hz and love it so far.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Why not buy a colorimeter and use it to calibrate all the monitors? Then they'll look more alike than ever before. It's not practical to keep trying your luck for another monitor in the hopes of getting ones that are close in color, that's not logical. There are loads of colorimeters out there, like the Spyder4 (Express, skip the higher packages) or the X-Rite i1 Display Pro (higher-end) or the ColorMunki Display (same sensor as the i1DP apparently, takes longer to measure, and no SDK made available --> usable only with 3rd-party software that offer reverse-engineered support aka HCFR + ArgyllCMS).
> 
> If you opt for any of these except the i1DP you can use 3rd-party software with them and save the cost of getting the respective company's software. Also doable with the i1DP as 3rd-party software, paid and non-paid, is quite excellent. I use ArgyllCMS myself on a Spyder4Express.


I will agree with you that you can't get even close to calibrated image quality without a coloromiter. Having said that in this case it is pointless using a coloromiter with a eyefinity or surround set up as it simply doesn't work. You can only calibrate 1 monitor to the gpu. So you would calibrate the center monitor and try and match the outside 2 as close to the center monitor as possible. Had to learn this the hard way myself.

+rep for info. (just joking spartan fu i mean f8)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I will agree with you that you can't get even close to calibrated image quality without a coloromiter. Having said that in this case it is pointless as using a coloromiter with a eyefinity or surround set up as it simply doesn't work. You can only calibrate 1 monitor to the gpu. So you would calibrate the center monitor and try and match the outside 2 as close to the center monitor as possible. Had to learn this the hard way myself.
> 
> +rep for info. (just joking spartan fu i mean f8)


I saw that and actually got a chuckle out of it sense i immediately knew what you meant.







Darn qwerty keyboards always putting "U" under "8".


----------



## bmancreations

I know it was not that long ago but...

I am about to get the multi-input version for Xmas, and I am very worried it will not overclock (cause most say it hasne't been confirmed one way or the other).

I can't exactly use two monitors at 96hz, and one at 60hz, that would be annoying.

Any word on this?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I saw that and actually got a chuckle out of it sense i immediately knew what you meant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darn qwerty keyboards always putting "U" under "8".


Haha, good, i was just playing.


----------



## lightsout

I think it's a definite no from everything I have read.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I know it was not that long ago but...
> 
> I am about to get the multi-input version for Xmas, and I am very worried it will not overclock (cause most say it hasne't been confirmed one way or the other).
> 
> I can't exactly use two monitors at 96hz, and one at 60hz, that would be annoying.
> 
> Any word on this?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I know it was not that long ago but...
> 
> I am about to get the multi-input version for Xmas, and I am very worried it will not overclock (cause most say it hasne't been confirmed one way or the other).
> 
> I can't exactly use two monitors at 96hz, and one at 60hz, that would be annoying.
> 
> Any word on this?


I have not yet seen a confirmation with actual proof of a multi-input version of the Qnix overclocking but i will say any overclocking would likely be a bit negated by the input lag of the scaler. You might get a bit better fluidity but at the expense of more motion blur due to the response time staying the same.

You can use monitors at different refresh rates next to each other and as long as they are both within about 20-30hz you will be fine(in terms of the annoying factor). Actually i have my Qnix at 120hz next to an Asus at 79hx overclocked. The difference takes about a half second to get used to and is not bad. This is a different story once you get close to 60hz. Our eyes have been trained over the years to be accustomed to 60hz or 24-30hz so if you get a bit over that you feel less and less of a difference. If you can even get your second monitor to 70hz next to 96hz it wont be too bad.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> catleap.zip 1k .zip file


+rep, thanks a ton man


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> +rep, thanks a ton man


No problem


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prostreetcamaro*
> 
> Just curious what is the benefit of these drivers over the generic driver windows uses?


Not sure to be honest.


----------



## prowess

Hey guys, I'm planning on getting a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ but I wanted to know if it's compatible with an AMD 7950?

Also, has anyone bought one off ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121117252582?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)? Does it come with everything that's needed to get the monitor working out of the box or would I have to buy a power cord, dvi cable, etc?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Not sure to be honest.


It can improve 120hz compatibility with some games for those NOT using CRU to impose the custom resolution.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prowess*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm planning on getting a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ but I wanted to know if it's compatible with an AMD 7950?
> 
> Also, has anyone bought one off ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121117252582?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)? Does it come with everything that's needed to get the monitor working out of the box or would I have to buy a power cord, dvi cable, etc?


it comes with everything.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> It can improve 120hz compatibility with some games for those NOT using CRU to impose the custom resolution.


I actually can verify this. 102hz fullscreen no monitor driver = hearthstone only runs at 60 frames, i install monitor driver and voila hearthstone is running at 102 frames - via nvidia control panel custom resolution, so hearthstone is one example anyway.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prostreetcamaro*
> 
> Just curious what is the benefit of these drivers over the generic driver windows uses?
> 
> BTW got my monitor yesterday and it has no backlight bleed and no dead or stuck pixels. I have it at 120hz and love it so far.


sry for being a noob but how do you install these drivers?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> sry for being a noob but how do you install these drivers?


I believe i did it just by going to start> right click computer>manage> device manager>monitors> update driver software and point it to where the driver is located. It depends on what the download is tho, because i believe you can download just a registry file as well which you just double click and it installs it.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I believe i did it just by going to start> right click computer>manage> device manager>monitors> update driver software and point it to where the driver is located. It depends on what the download is tho, because i believe you can download just a registry file as well which you just double click and it installs it.


you also have to disable device driver signature, in windows 8 you do anyway -


----------



## the9quad

Anyone know exactly which files get patched with ToastyX's ATI patch? I'd like to just make a back up of those files so I can replace them when I want to watch a blu-ray instead of having to re-install drivers everytime.


----------



## andream88

Hi guys,

just received an X-Star DP2710 from AccessoriesWhole (tempered glass, paid 189GBP), it is a tempered glass version (matte under the glass).
It should have served as a sample for a customer who wants to order quite a few of them, guess what?

it came with a huge amount of defective pixels (must be approx 100x), most visibile on a green screen.
Looks like someone damaged the screen with their thumb during the assembly (before putting the glass on).
I've tried to locate the problem with a magnifying lens and it looks like some green sub-pixels are very lazy and don't light up properly. I've already tried all sorts of software cure, but nothing has changed.

I guess the only option is to get it shipped back?

cheers


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Anyone know exactly which files get patched with ToastyX's ATI patch? I'd like to just make a back up of those files so I can replace them when I want to watch a blu-ray instead of having to re-install drivers everytime.


Well, I am officially an idiot. All you have to do is re-run the patch and it will restore from back up.


----------



## ya mother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andream88*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> just received an X-Star DP2710 from AccessoriesWhole (tempered glass, paid 189GBP), it is a tempered glass version (matte under the glass).
> It should have served as a sample for a customer who wants to order quite a few of them, guess what?
> 
> it came with a huge amount of defective pixels (must be approx 100x), most visibile on a green screen.
> Looks like someone damaged the screen with their thumb during the assembly (before putting the glass on).
> I've tried to locate the problem with a magnifying lens and it looks like some green sub-pixels are very lazy and don't light up properly. I've already tried all sorts of software cure, but nothing has changed.
> 
> I guess the only option is to get it shipped back?
> 
> cheers


AW paid for mine to be shipped back and then refunded me straight away after they checked it.....great customer service.


----------



## andream88

Yeah i'm sure AW will deal with it, but it's a huge pain in the ass nonetheless.

I've paid VAT as a company on top of it, so i'm not sure about what needs to be done to ship it back and receive a replacement without having to pay the VAT for a second time!!

Let's see what AW suggests to do...


----------



## maka12

Hi
had my x star for a few weeks and love it , I am running at 96hz but was wondering what do i have to do with timings i read people have to get timings right can someone explain?
thanks


----------



## hanzy

I ordered a QNIX from storewithstory late Monday, and I had it on Thursday.
It was being shipped to East Coast USA.
Very surprised how quickly I had the product!

I have not set it up yet.

When I do, I will do some comparisons with my ASUS PB278Q.


----------



## cbrazeau1115

My monitor was scheduled for delivery, wake up this morning to check it (was in Anchorage yesterday) to find out its magically out for delivery today. Excited and nervous to check out the quality.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maka12*
> 
> Hi
> had my x star for a few weeks and love it , I am running at 96hz but was wondering what do i have to do with timings i read people have to get timings right can someone explain?
> thanks


If you only plan on running at 96hz then you very likely do not have to mess with the timings. The main reason for optimizing timings is to reduce the very overbloated pixel clock data rate. The max data rate for the Qnix PCB is 450mhz and at 96hz you very likely are still under that even with stock timings thus making timings optimization less useful. With a 120hz overclock the data rate get well over 450mhz and requires tweaking.

Bottom line you are fine at 96hz but if you go to 120hz you might want to read up on it. PM me if you have some specific questions and i will point you in the right direction.


----------



## ledger

Hi, I'm looking to buy the QX2710 but my graphics card is only a gtx 560. Will I be able to do any kind of gaming? (Witcher 2, Batman Arkham Origins)
I will be upgrading my card in a couple of weeks, would a GTX 760 be good buy? (something for about $250)
BTW I will buy the monitor from Ebay seller "storewithstory" & he also accepted my offer








Does anyone know if I would have to pay any duty fees shipped to the United Sates?
Thanks


----------



## Ovrclck

I can comment on the duty fees. There is none for us US residents.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## ledger

Thanks BGKris. I really appreciate it.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Hey I'm just curious if we should still be using 2 crossfire bridges because I've been troubleshooting a problem the whole day. Essentially I went to play some Borderlands 2 today and while loading the only way I can describe it was that it was as if both 7950s were outputing their own signal. It was like there was the normal loading screen but then several times a second a full image would scan down the screen. It did that with crossfire on. So I ended up troubleshooting it deducing that it had to do with having my monitor overclocked to 96 hz with crossfire on. But when I went to reinstall the latest WHQL drivers cleanly and after all was said and done it stated that my crossfire bridge was not set up correctly. So I'm only using one at the moment and that error doesn't show up. So is it just possible that my bridge is broken? Was just wondering if I could still game with one bridge because I haven't noticed any discrepancies yet. And if I were to have to have a second bridge, does it matter what kind?


----------



## Zenophobe

X-Star DP2710LED color profile 120hz with Spyder4 Elite
2.2 gamma
6500K color temp

ASUSPB278Q-3.zip 2k .zip file


----------



## prowess

You guys know the difference between the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II QHD vs WQHD?

Also, are they compatible with a Radeon 7950?


----------



## ledger

I got this info from some website: http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=8
*What is WQHD?*
QHD (Quad HD), also sometimes advertised as WQHD due to its widescreen shape, is a display resolution of 2560×1440 pixels in a 16:9 aspect ratio.
It has four times as many pixels as the 720p HDTV video standard, hence the name.

WQHD stands for 'Wide Quad HD', which is also referred to QHD.

I guess it's the same thing.


----------



## taafe

So ive just ordered my qnix DP2710 from ebay accessorieswhole £214 free shipping, I even had the cheek to ask him to mark it as a gift to avoid the £100 customs fee so fingers crossed on that one. Hope I get a desent one ive been so anxious about getting one but you only live once and its Christmas, now just deciding whether to tell the misses now or some other day when shes in a better mood


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> So ive just ordered my qnix DP2710 from ebay accessorieswhole £214 free shipping, I even had the cheek to ask him to mark it as a gift to avoid the £100 customs fee so fingers crossed on that one. Hope I get a desent one ive been so anxious about getting one but you only live once and its Christmas, now just deciding whether to tell the misses now or some other day when shes in a better mood


Same here, couldn't wait to order one after spending a couple of days reading 1150 pages @ overlcock.net!
Wait till she's in a better mood, there's nothing worse IMO than having a woman bicker & complain!








Well I actually have a good excuse, I told my wife I bought it for her Xmas gift.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledger*
> 
> Same here, couldn't wait to order one after spending a couple of days reading 1150 pages @ overlcock.net!
> Wait till she's in a better mood, there's nothing worse IMO than having a woman bicker & complain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I actually have a good excuse, I told my wife I bought it for her Xmas gift.


My wife still don't know I bought mine. It arrived when it she wasn't at home. Actually the UPS guy drove away right when she was pulling in. I hooked it up and she asked where did I get it (she was in a bad mood) told her it was with all my computer stuff just decided to use it again. It worked but only because I have so many computer parts she can't keep up with it. Plus it was part of my bonus so she never will know. I know I am a bad bad person.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> My wife still don't know I bought mine. It arrived when it she wasn't at home. Actually the UPS guy drove away right when she was pulling in. I hooked it up and she asked where did I get it (she was in a bad mood) told her it was with all my computer stuff just decided to use it again. It worked but only because I have so many computer parts she can't keep up with it. Plus it was part of my bonus so she never will know. I know I am a bad bad person.


Score! My wife is very acccepting of my habit. i showed her the EVGA X79 Dark and she said it looked awesome. Didn't even mention the price. I can't wait to get a QNIX, and the only way I convinced her to let me get one after we moved is because it'll be on "her" set up. Which is basically my secondary computer that she might occasionally use.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> My wife still don't know I bought mine. It arrived when it she wasn't at home. Actually the UPS guy drove away right when she was pulling in. I hooked it up and she asked where did I get it (she was in a bad mood) told her it was with all my computer stuff just decided to use it again. It worked but only because I have so many computer parts she can't keep up with it. Plus it was part of my bonus so she never will know. I know I am a bad bad person.


if you have to hide things from her you are in for a bad time.


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> My wife still don't know I bought mine. It arrived when it she wasn't at home. Actually the UPS guy drove away right when she was pulling in. I hooked it up and she asked where did I get it (she was in a bad mood) told her it was with all my computer stuff just decided to use it again. It worked but only because I have so many computer parts she can't keep up with it. Plus it was part of my bonus so she never will know. I know I am a bad bad person.


LOL! Damn you're good!
My wife is too sneaky for trickery!
BTW you are not a bad person.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I believe i did it just by going to start> right click computer>manage> device manager>monitors> update driver software and point it to where the driver is located. It depends on what the download is tho, because i believe you can download just a registry file as well which you just double click and it installs it.


ok so when I try to do that it just says that windows thinks the generic one is ok, and dosnt proceed.?


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledger*
> 
> Same here, couldn't wait to order one after spending a couple of days reading 1150 pages @ overlcock.net!
> Wait till she's in a better mood, there's nothing worse IMO than having a woman bicker & complain!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I actually have a good excuse, I told my wife I bought it for her Xmas gift.


Shes lucky though I was gonna treat myself to a 780ti classified but im kinda saving up for an engagement ring so I must a good heart right? Anyways I will keep you people posted and what are chances of getting this before Christmas? Its says the 24th but I highly doubt that


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Score! My wife is very acccepting of my habit. i showed her the EVGA X79 Dark and she said it looked awesome. Didn't even mention the price. I can't wait to get a QNIX, and the only way I convinced her to let me get one after we moved is because it'll be on "her" set up. Which is basically my secondary computer that she might occasionally use.


I wish my wife was like that she doesn't understand this hobby. In my defense though she stays at home with the baby. I work a min of 60 hours a week on the production line fof Nissan making Altimas, Maximas and the Leaf. She doesn't understand that work is hard either but anyone who has worked for a car manufactor knows its physically demanding. So I see it as this is my stress relief from work etc. She has every tv station known to manbecause she is a tv person I can't stand tv. I am addicted to benching and ocn lol.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I wish my wife was like that she doesn't understand this hobby. In my defense though she stays at home with the baby. I work a min of 60 hours a week on the production line fof Nissan making Altimas, Maximas and the Leaf. She doesn't understand that work is hard either but anyone who has worked for a car manufactor knows its physically demanding. So I see it as this is my stress relief from work etc. She has every tv station known to manbecause she is a tv person I can't stand tv. I am addicted to benching and ocn lol.


As long as I spend time with the her and my son, he's six months old, she's fine with my hobby. Obviously they are my main priority, but she understands I need to get away to play games and schtuff.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> As long as I spend time with the her and my son, he's six months old, she's fine with my hobby. Obviously they are my main priority, but she understands I need to get away to play games and schtuff.


Yea I never hardly get on my pc unless its when I get home for work since I work night shift there asleep or when there not at home. My smart phone on the other hand I am always checking OCN or reading. I guess OCN is to me like Facebook and Twitter are to others. I wish there was some way to make her understand. Other then that I am always out doing family stuff. I think the worst part is working night shift it feels like throught the week I never see them since I am going to bed when they wake up and getting up when they go to bed. My little girl is 9 months they get big fast. I remember being able to hold her in one hand not anymore lol


----------



## Zenophobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I will agree with you that you can't get even close to calibrated image quality without a coloromiter. Having said that in this case it is pointless using a coloromiter with a eyefinity or surround set up as it simply doesn't work. You can only calibrate 1 monitor to the gpu. So you would calibrate the center monitor and try and match the outside 2 as close to the center monitor as possible. Had to learn this the hard way myself.
> 
> +rep for info. (just joking spartan fu i mean f8)


I'm about with my Spyder Elite to calibrate all my monitors separately. Samsung BW205 x 2 and X-Star 2710 Looks great! Can't respond to the eyefinity setting thou... Guess since it's "one" monitor you would have to set it manually.


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys just got my monitor running. Set 120hz in NV control panel. UFOtest says I am at 60hz. But I had the option for 120hz in BF4 and it ran fine. Does this mean I am at 120? Confused.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey guys just got my monitor running. Set 120hz in NV control panel. UFOtest says I am at 60hz. But I had the option for 120hz in BF4 and it ran fine. Does this mean I am at 120? Confused.


So did you use CRU? DId you restart you computer? Don't maximize your browser window when running the UFO test.

I'm having a problem in which when I start an episode of a TV series on HBO Go my computer goes into the static mode. Its as if you change your TV to a station that doesn't have a channel.



Everything else is working fine on the monitor... I have it at 120hz my timings are these:


Except my Vertical Front porch and sync width pixels are both 2, instead of 3 and 5.

Using my stock cable, could it be the reason?


----------



## ftlum

Hi All.

I'm still debating on going for 1440p. I finally got a new computer (my wife didn't give me too much trouble







) with a Gigabyte 2GB GTX 770 so I can potentially run that resolution now.
I'm currently playing Skyrim (modded like crazy) and Tomb Raider, and was wondering if I'm going to have to go with SLI or a Maxwell card when they come out.
I understand that with 1440p, you can turn down AA a lot-- will I get good FPS if I do that and keep everything else maxed out? Or would I be back to turning down shadows (etc) again to try to squeeze out more FPS? Also, when you decrease AA, does that also reduce how much VRAM you need? I'd just be using a single monitor and from what I've read it looks like 2GB would be ok but if it's not enough, I probably would not want to shell out more $ for a second 2GB GTX (too bad combining 2GB and 4GB cards doesn't help).

thanks!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey guys just got my monitor running. Set 120hz in NV control panel. UFOtest says I am at 60hz. But I had the option for 120hz in BF4 and it ran fine. Does this mean I am at 120? Confused.
> 
> 
> 
> So did you use CRU? DId you restart you computer? Don't maximize your browser window when running the UFO test.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having a problem in which when I start an episode of a TV series on HBO Go my computer goes into the static mode. Its as if you change your TV to a station that doesn't have a channel.
> 
> 
> 
> Everything else is working fine on the monitor... I have it at 120hz my timings are these:
> 
> 
> Except my Vertical Front porch and sync width pixels are both 2, instead of 3 and 5.
> 
> Using my stock cable, could it be the reason?
Click to expand...

I am not using cruI think I restarted.

Pretty sure it was working. Never gamed past 60hz before. Was playing bf4 and kept dropping the quality, the higher the frames got the smoother it felt. To me it looked like frame interpolation on an LCD tv. Is that kind of what I would expect to see with the monitor at 120hz? It had to be working because I could clearly see a difference the more I went above 60hz.

Anyways its back in the box, until Christmas. But man the thing was gorgeous. Did not see any dead pixels. Colors looked great. Super excited.


----------



## prowess

Can someone explain the downsides of these monitors not having a strobe backlight, though?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I am not using cruI think I restarted.
> 
> Pretty sure it was working. Never gamed past 60hz before. Was playing bf4 and kept dropping the quality, the higher the frames got the smoother it felt. To me it looked like frame interpolation on an LCD tv. Is that kind of what I would expect to see with the monitor at 120hz? It had to be working because I could clearly see a difference the more I went above 60hz.
> 
> Anyways its back in the box, until Christmas. But man the thing was gorgeous. Did not see any dead pixels. Colors looked great. Super excited.


Its CRU. Your desktop and a few other things work with the refresh rate you set in the NV control panel. You have to enable it in CRU to get the full experience with every program.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I am not using cruI think I restarted.
> 
> Pretty sure it was working. Never gamed past 60hz before. Was playing bf4 and kept dropping the quality, the higher the frames got the smoother it felt. To me it looked like frame interpolation on an LCD tv. Is that kind of what I would expect to see with the monitor at 120hz? It had to be working because I could clearly see a difference the more I went above 60hz.
> 
> Anyways its back in the box, until Christmas. But man the thing was gorgeous. Did not see any dead pixels. Colors looked great. Super excited.
> 
> 
> 
> Its CRU. Your desktop and a few other things work with the refresh rate you set in the NV control panel. You have to enable it in CRU to get the full experience with every program.
Click to expand...

Ok cool man thanks.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> ok so when I try to do that it just says that windows thinks the generic one is ok, and dosnt proceed.?


Did you point it to the folder with the qnix driver by selecting let me pick manually?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zenophobe*
> 
> I'm about with my Spyder Elite to calibrate all my monitors separately. Samsung BW205 x 2 and X-Star 2710 Looks great! Can't respond to the eyefinity setting thou... Guess since it's "one" monitor you would have to set it manually.


Once you set it up into eyefinity or surround it will only load 1 color profile on restart. It can't load all 3.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prowess*
> 
> Can someone explain the downsides of these monitors not having a strobe backlight, though?


Slightly more blur during fast motion. Basically the downside is you can only expect 120hz refresh nothing more nothing less.


----------



## prowess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Slightly more blur during fast motion. Basically the downside is you can only expect 120hz refresh nothing more nothing less.


Thanks.

Does anyone know if these monitors are compatible with a Radeon 7950?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prowess*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Does anyone know if these monitors are compatible with a Radeon 7950?


why wouldn't it be ?


----------



## jameyscott

Of course it is. The 7950 has a dual link dvi.


----------



## LotionExplosion

So I heard that by leaving these overclocked on 96/120hz, color accuracy drops over time. Is this a true statement? I don't want to screw up my display but I'd really like that 96hz.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I believe i did it just by going to start> right click computer>manage> device manager>monitors> update driver software and point it to where the driver is located. It depends on what the download is tho, because i believe you can download just a registry file as well which you just double click and it installs it.
> 
> 
> 
> ok so when I try to do that it just says that windows thinks the generic one is ok, and dosnt proceed.?
Click to expand...

I don't remember exactly but you have to select "let me pick drivers" or along the lines of that. Then just point to the. Inf file.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I wish my wife was like that she doesn't understand this hobby. In my defense though she stays at home with the baby. I work a min of 60 hours a week on the production line fof Nissan making Altimas, Maximas and the Leaf. She doesn't understand that work is hard either but anyone who has worked for a car manufactor knows its physically demanding. So I see it as this is my stress relief from work etc. She has every tv station known to manbecause she is a tv person I can't stand tv. I am addicted to benching and ocn lol.
> 
> 
> 
> As long as I spend time with the her and my son, he's six months old, she's fine with my hobby. Obviously they are my main priority, but she understands I need to get away to play games and schtuff.
Click to expand...

Same here, my son is 10 and a half months old.

I'm looking into getting one of these monitors early next year.


----------



## RAIDo

Is excellentcastle a good seller for qnix monitorrs? This is the monitor that I was looking at : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271312832266&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Also, how bad is the backlight bleed on these and is it fixable?


----------



## Zenophobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAIDo*
> 
> Is excellentcastle a good seller for qnix monitorrs? This is the monitor that I was looking at : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271312832266&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
> 
> Also, how bad is the backlight bleed on these and is it fixable?


My X-Star is perfect no back-light bleed that's noticeable no stuck pixels that's noticeable etc... worth every penny. Now just waitin on my 290x Windforce to power this beast.


----------



## RAIDo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zenophobe*
> 
> My X-Star is perfect no back-light bleed that's noticeable no stuck pixels that's noticeable etc... worth every penny. Now just waitin on my 290x Windforce to power this beast.


Is x-star more or less the same? Also cN I have a link to where you bought it from.


----------



## doctakedooty

I just want to say this for anyone looking at these monitors or on the fence about it. I have had mine for about 2 weeks coming from a 1080p tv. I have played on my buddies 144hz monitors and 1080p 60hz monitors and I was debating these for over a month or going with a name brand 1080p monitor with lightboost and 144hz refresh. I will say I made the right choice going with these there amazing. Needless to say my buddies are now ordering some because after playing on mine for a hour and going back to theres they hate it. Its not hard to find some good ones just ask on these forums for good salers and you will increase your odds of good monitors. Hopefully this helps someone from reading through 384 pages to come to this conclusion.


----------



## Hardrock

I have my Qnix running @ 110Hz with CRU on LCD standard settings. I would like to go to 120 Hz but I don't really understand the Pixel clock timings in CRU. Anyone got a link to a good resource where I can read up on that ?

My GPU is an ASUS R9 280X so it should be able to do 120 Hz I would hope.

Thanks Guys , have a 1440p Christmas LOL !!


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> I have my Qnix running @ 110Hz with CRU on LCD standard settings. I would like to go to 120 Hz but I don't really understand the Pixel clock timings in CRU. Anyone got a link to a good resource where I can read up on that ?
> 
> My GPU is an ASUS R9 280X so it should be able to do 120 Hz I would hope.
> 
> Thanks Guys , have a 1440p Christmas LOL !!


It will but you won't be able to play all games at 120fps


----------



## Hardrock

Right, my 1 GPU maxes out at about 100 fps in BF4 on ultra with Aliasing off. But, I would still like to try it for shoots and giggles though. Maybe Crossfire 280's are in my future once those lite coin boys move on to the next thing. And, I would like to understand what the CRU timings do.


----------



## the9quad

It take me 3 cards to get a frame rate that never dips below 100 in bf4 with ultra settings and 2x aliasing. That's with 3 r9 290x's, a 4930k at 4.5ghz, and 32 gigs of ddr3 @2400mhz. I think you can hit 100 fps with one card, but I doubt you'd average that consistently.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> It take me 3 cards to get a frame rate that never dips below 100 in bf4 with ultra settings and 2x aliasing. That's with 3 r9 290x's, a 4930k at 4.5ghz, and 32 gigs of ddr3 @2400mhz. I think you can hit 100 fps with one card, but I doubt you'd average that consistently.


Your point is well taken, but maybe some of my older games like Splinter Cell, NFS Shift, Medal of Honor ect would run at 120 fps. Anyone got a link to explain the CRU timings ?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> It take me 3 cards to get a frame rate that never dips below 100 in bf4 with ultra settings and 2x aliasing. That's with 3 r9 290x's, a 4930k at 4.5ghz, and 32 gigs of ddr3 @2400mhz. I think you can hit 100 fps with one card, but I doubt you'd average that consistently.


How is the game running in tri fire? No stuttering? I'm averaging between 60-100 fps mainly around 90 with ultra and no AA. Thinking bout grabbing a 2nd card for bf4, but don't want to do it if it just introduces more issues.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Same here, my son is 10 and a half months old.
> 
> I'm looking into getting one of these monitors early next year.


All right! Even the senior mod is joining in!


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> How is the game running in tri fire? No stuttering? I'm averaging between 60-100 fps mainly around 90 with ultra and no AA. Thinking bout grabbing a 2nd card for bf4, but don't want to do it if it just introduces more issues.


BF4 is so broken at the moment anyways though. I run ultra with I think 2x or 4x aa and I drop no lower then 115fps with sli 780 ti with no overclock. With a slight overclock I never drop below 120 fps. My 4930k is at 4.3 for gaming and 16gb of Corsair Dominator GT 2133 Cas9 ram.


----------



## Edgexcore

So mine just arrived! Bought from dream-seller, good guy. Very little black light bleed at the bottom, most likely fixable (tape mod). NO DEAD PIXELS!!! So happy guys!









But I am having SLI issues now, looking for some help.
No issues with the monitors so...

I installed the lastest 331.81 drivers for my EVGA GTX 670 FTW SLI setup. clean install, no problems. Whenever I turn on SLI it will randomly freeze up for a second or two every 5-10 seconds.
SLI off, no freezes, but now it doesnt recognize my second card. ***.
I then used Driver Sweeper to clean the drivers out from Nvidia.
Reninstalled, still laggy all the time in SLI.

any ideas guys?

may try an older driver in the mean time.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edgexcore*
> 
> So mine just arrived! Bought from dream-seller, good guy. Very little black light bleed at the bottom, most likely fixable (tape mod). NO DEAD PIXELS!!! So happy guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I am having SLI issues now, looking for some help.
> No issues with the monitors so...
> 
> I installed the lastest 331.81 drivers for my EVGA GTX 670 FTW SLI setup. clean install, no problems. Whenever I turn on SLI it will randomly freeze up for a second or two every 5-10 seconds.
> SLI off, no freezes, but now it doesnt recognize my second card. ***.
> I then used Driver Sweeper to clean the drivers out from Nvidia.
> Reninstalled, still laggy all the time in SLI.
> 
> any ideas guys?
> 
> may try an older driver in the mean time.


Try just running your second card as primary without sli if you can and see if it still does it. Second card may be going bad. Before that I would check previous drivers. I know I have driver issues with sli 780ti I can run black ops 2 or crysis 2 in sli or I reboot. A lot of people in the 780ti forums have the same issue. Also try another sli bridge if you have one.

Is the issue doing that in a game or in windows desktop?


----------



## Edgexcore

I am gonna try 320 drivers and see what happens.


----------



## Zenophobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAIDo*
> 
> Is x-star more or less the same? Also cN I have a link to where you bought it from.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/321135502506?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## Hardrock

For the life of me I cant get past 110 HZ. It seems when the pixel clock of my monitor get past 430 i get scan lines, there doesn't seem to be anything I can do to get rid of them. Any ideas, my current clocks are attached.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> For the life of me I cant get past 110 HZ. It seems when the pixel clock of my monitor get past 430 i get scan lines, there doesn't seem to be anything I can do to get rid of them. Any ideas, my current clocks are attached.


try this, these settings work for me up to like 115hz or so.


----------



## Hardrock

Thanks, that works great @ 115Hz. Actually, now there are fewer scan lines at 120 Hz. Maybe I can tweak it from here to get to 120. Thanks a bunch, I Rep'd ya !


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Thanks, that works great @ 115Hz. Actually, now there are fewer scan lines at 120 Hz. Maybe I can tweak it from here to get to 120. Thanks a bunch, I Rep'd ya !


np this stuff can be frustrating I had a heck of a time figuring out what was going on with my 290x and ocing my monitor.


----------



## Ovrclck

Woohoo! My monitor does 120Hz. Looks like I needed a shorter dvi cable. Just installed a 3ft and set CRU, bam!


----------



## taafe

Ive ordered a qnix from accessorieswhole and was just wondering if you receive a tracking number only when its been dispatched or can they send and then give you the tracking number? Just being inpatient wanted it for crimbo day


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Has anyone tried doing custom resolution for say 1280x960?
> Can you run even higher refresh rate for lower resolutions? Like 144Hz at that resolution or something?
> 
> EDIT: Just got 120Hz running perfect, Lagom Contrast and Gamma tests are nearly spot on aswell.
> Thank you for that "Front Porch" reference


Is there a youtube video or something to show exactly how to make the changes to Gamma?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Is there a youtube video or something to show exactly how to make the changes to Gamma?


If you have an nvidia card.:

1. Right click
2. open the nvidia control panel
3. click "adjust desktop color settings
4. Click "use nvidia settings
5. Use gamma slider
6. open up a gamma test pic for gamma adjustment
7. Use google to find a gamma adjuster they are everywhere

Or download http://quickgamma.de/indexen.html


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> If you have an nvidia card.:
> 
> 1. Right click
> 2. open the nvidia control panel
> 3. click "adjust desktop color settings
> 4. Click "use nvidia settings
> 5. Use gamma slider
> 6. open up a gamma test pic for gamma adjustment
> 7. Use google to find a gamma adjuster they are everywhere
> 
> Or download http://quickgamma.de/indexen.html


oops, I was in the wrong section..lol Under video instead of display


----------



## Hardrock

Hey any of you guys figure out how to run a game that only supports up to 1920x1200 full screen @ 1440P ? Specifically, I am talking about splinter cell chaos theory.

Thanks


----------



## Ovrclck

I'm getting a lot of white lines in bf4 @120hz. Reducing the pixel clock would eliminate the lines eh?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> How is the game running in tri fire? No stuttering? I'm averaging between 60-100 fps mainly around 90 with ultra and no AA. Thinking bout grabbing a 2nd card for bf4, but don't want to do it if it just introduces more issues.


It runs great, I really haven't had any xfire issues. Other than that flashing texture a patch ago that they fixed. Framrate is crazy. I lock it so I'm at 103. It maxes out at 200 but the mins drop it to 100 so I just lock it. No micro stutter, and it's as painless as a single card.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Anyway to have 144hz actually stick on nvidia control panel?


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> It take me 3 cards to get a frame rate that never dips below 100 in bf4 with ultra settings and 2x aliasing. That's with 3 r9 290x's, a 4930k at 4.5ghz, and 32 gigs of ddr3 @2400mhz. I think you can hit 100 fps with one card, but I doubt you'd average that consistently.


Something must be wrong.
With no frame rate limiter im getting 100-130fps with dips into the 90s on 1440p Ultra 4X MSAA.
Set Frame rate limiter to 101FPS since im running 100hz on the screen on bf4 and it never moves off it until the memory leak fills up all my ram after a hour and half, Then I get dips to 20fps for half a sec every 4-5mins.

Iv only got 2X 7970s ghz and 8350 @ 5ghz, 8GB 2ghz ram.

Also if you haddnt noticed BF4 has had lots of stuff disabled in it over the last few patches.
High and Ultra are the same now. (some people have even reported medium terrain setting as being better then ultra/high, But when I compared with some screen shots it looked worse)
Physics have been removed.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Something must be wrong.
> With no frame rate limiter im getting 100-130fps with dips into the 90s on 1440p Ultra 4X MSAA.
> Set Frame rate limiter to 101FPS since im running 100hz on the screen on bf4 and it never moves off it until the memory leak fills up all my ram after a hour and half, Then I get dips to 20fps for half a sec every 4-5mins.
> 
> Iv only got 2X 7970s ghz and 8350 @ 5ghz, 8GB 2ghz ram.
> 
> Also if you haddnt noticed BF4 has had lots of stuff disabled in it over the last few patches.
> High and Ultra are the same now. (some people have even reported medium terrain setting as being better then ultra/high, But when I compared with some screen shots it looked worse)
> Physics have been removed.


Oh my average frame rate is way way high sits at 200 a lot of the time, I have it limited because I want it to never drop. With it at 103 I never drop, never. It gives me the smoothest experience that way as my refresh rate is 100hz, without having to use vsync, I can run 120hz but when stuff gets crazy it can dip below that for a second or two, so I keep it at 100hz 103 fps. I also limit it because I can't see or feel any difference between 100 and 120 and it lets my cards relax.


----------



## bmgjet

That makes more sense now.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So I just got a used 670 4GB and used Precision X to set 96Hz...is that all I have to do? Don't notice any darkening as with CRU and my 7950. I know there is a test for this but not familiar with using it.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> So I just got a used 670 4GB and used Precision X to set 96Hz...is that all I have to do? Don't notice any darkening as with CRU and my 7950. I know there is a test for this but not familiar with using it.


How did you set your refresh rate with precision x?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well, more specifically, with the included "EVGA Pixel Clock Overclocking" utility.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

I'm having a problem in which when I start an episode of a TV series on HBO Go my computer goes into the static mode. Its as if you change your TV to a station that doesn't have a channel.



Everything else is working fine on the monitor... I have it at 120hz my timings are these:


Except my Vertical Front porch and sync width pixels are both 2, instead of 3 and 5.

Using my stock cable, could it be the reason?

PS Sorry for reposting, I was helping somebody and I think people passed over my question by confusing it with help for another person.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Well, more specifically, with the included "EVGA Pixel Clock Overclocking" utility.


Interesting haven't used Precision since it was released. Don't see many people here using that.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I'm having a problem in which when I start an episode of a TV series on HBO Go my computer goes into the static mode. Its as if you change your TV to a station that doesn't have a channel.
> 
> 
> 
> Everything else is working fine on the monitor... I have it at 120hz my timings are these:
> 
> 
> Except my Vertical Front porch and sync width pixels are both 2, instead of 3 and 5.
> 
> Using my stock cable, could it be the reason?
> 
> PS Sorry for reposting, I was helping somebody and I think people passed over my question by confusing it with help for another person.


Yeah it could be. The included cable isn't great,

I'm getting a higher grade cable tomorrow. Will post results.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Yeah it could be. The included cable isn't great,
> 
> I'm getting a higher grade cable tomorrow. Will post results.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Except my Vertical Front porch and sync width pixels are both 2, instead of 3 and 5.
> 
> Using my stock cable, could it be the reason?
> 
> PS Sorry for reposting, I was helping somebody and I think people passed over my question by confusing it with help for another person.


This might be more related to HTPC being broke by the nvidia driver patch. The cable would not cause this specific type of issue. Questions i would ask is does this literally NOT happen doing anything else on the computer? Other videos? What type of codecs, sample rates, bit rates, etc of the video?

I would also try re-installing the drivers without the patch and try your content again.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This might be more related to HTPC being broke by the nvidia driver patch. The cable would not cause this specific type of issue. Questions i would ask is does this literally NOT happen doing anything else on the computer? Other videos? What type of codecs, sample rates, bit rates, etc of the video?
> 
> I would also try re-installing the drivers without the patch and try your content again.


I don't use the patch.


----------



## Pinecallado

Has anyone got a monitor from eBay seller storewithstory? It's been over a day and the monitor still hasn't shipped yet.


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> Has anyone got a monitor from eBay seller storewithstory? It's been over a day and the monitor still hasn't shipped yet.


I'm in the same boat as you. Just purchased a monitor from storewithstory yesterday & have not received shipping status yet.
Hopefully they will ship the monitors ASAP it's 4:32 pm there......keeping my fingers crossed!


----------



## Zenophobe

Takes about a day longer. You most likely will not have them by xmas.


----------



## Pinecallado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledger*
> 
> I'm in the same boat as you. Just purchased a monitor from storewithstory yesterday & have not received shipping status yet.
> Hopefully they will ship the monitors ASAP it's 4:32 pm there......keeping my fingers crossed!


Now I'm starting to regret not just getting the $299 one from dream seller. At least that seller promised to deliver the monitor before Christmas.

Now I'm just refreshing my email waiting for shipping confirmation. Sigh...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zenophobe*
> 
> Takes about a day longer. You most likely will not have them by xmas.


I know will probably not have this by Xmas but I was hoping to not wait a long time for it to be shipped. How long did it take for some of you guys monitors to be shipped?


----------



## fouBelieve

Hey, so i just received 2x today.
I built my new PC today but unfortunately the last part is the non reference 290s.
I was hoping to use these with my onboard from my cpu/mobo.

after i built my pc, i tested via cpu mobo hdmi and it displays.
But when i connect my qnix, it flashes through different colours and gradients.

Would anyone know the cause?
Do i have to use it with a dedicated GPU?

Hope these non reference 290s dont take too long if i cant test for dead pixels i wont be able to return it time







thought i wouldve been able to use it with on board, nobody replied to me last time..

Please help! Thanks in advance.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Hey, so i just received 2x today.
> I built my new PC today but unfortunately the last part is the non reference 290s.
> I was hoping to use these with my onboard from my cpu/mobo.
> 
> after i built my pc, i tested via cpu mobo hdmi and it displays.
> But when i connect my qnix, it flashes through different colours and gradients.
> 
> Would anyone know the cause?
> Do i have to use it with a dedicated GPU?
> 
> Hope these non reference 290s dont take too long if i cant test for dead pixels i wont be able to return it time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thought i wouldve been able to use it with on board, nobody replied to me last time..
> 
> Please help! Thanks in advance.


Yes, the 2560 x 1440 displayes needs a duallink connection via. dvi. so you'll have to wait to get the 290's. :/


----------



## fouBelieve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen*
> 
> Yes, the 2560 x 1440 displayes needs a duallink connection via. dvi. so you'll have to wait to get the 290's. :/


Hey mate thanks for the reply.
The mobo has the correct plug which comes with the qnix.
Im assuming the cpu or mobo (im a noob so not sure where the integrated graphics is from) cant display 1440p and qnix can ONLY display 1440p?

Hope these cards are out soon


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Hey mate thanks for the reply.
> The mobo has the correct plug which comes with the qnix.
> Im assuming the cpu or mobo (im a noob so not sure where the integrated graphics is from) cant display 1440p and qnix can ONLY display 1440p?
> 
> Hope these cards are out soon


Its a bit technical but yes, bassicly. The screens can go lower on res, BUT still needs the DVI dual link. So yes, your DVI cables will plug in fine, but the onboard / cpu only support single channel, so your not gonna get any image on screen. you need a dedicated GPU with dual link DVI (most cards nowadays)


----------



## fouBelieve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnsen*
> 
> Its a bit technical but yes, bassicly. The screens can go lower on res, BUT still needs the DVI dual link. So yes, your DVI cables will plug in fine, but the onboard / cpu only support single channel, so your not gonna get any image on screen. you need a dedicated GPU with dual link DVI (most cards nowadays)


But if my mobo has the exact plug that you say and the monitor can do a lower res, why is it flicking thru those colours? It should be able to display right?


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> Has anyone got a monitor from eBay seller storewithstory? It's been over a day and the monitor still hasn't shipped yet.


i have. they are not operating in the weekends. i ordered it one saturday, not knowing that they didn't work in the weekends. i got the reply on monday though.

the monitor was delivered on the next friday. but i'm in Japan, so it arrives faster i guess. just a few hundred miles from South Korea.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Something must be wrong.
> With no frame rate limiter im getting 100-130fps with dips into the 90s on 1440p Ultra 4X MSAA.
> Set Frame rate limiter to 101FPS since im running 100hz on the screen on bf4 and it never moves off it until the memory leak fills up all my ram after a hour and half, Then I get dips to 20fps for half a sec every 4-5mins.
> 
> Iv only got 2X 7970s ghz and 8350 @ 5ghz, 8GB 2ghz ram.
> 
> Also if you haddnt noticed BF4 has had lots of stuff disabled in it over the last few patches.
> High and Ultra are the same now. (some people have even reported medium terrain setting as being better then ultra/high, But when I compared with some screen shots it looked worse)
> Physics have been removed.


I am getting about the same with my 7970 CFs. Around 100.
Running 110hz


----------



## Pinecallado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> i have. they are not operating in the weekends. i ordered it one saturday, not knowing that they didn't work in the weekends. i got the reply on monday though.
> 
> the monitor was delivered on the next friday. but i'm in Japan, so it arrives faster i guess. just a few hundred miles from South Korea.


I finally got the shipping message around 3:30AM EST. That was a relief.

And you got it by the end of the week? It seems for many of the other members here it only took about 3 days to get their monitor and they live in the other side of the world.


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> I finally got the shipping message around 3:30AM EST. That was a relief.
> 
> And you got it by the end of the week? It seems for many of the other members here it only took about 3 days to get their monitor and they live in the other side of the world.


Same here got an email that the monitor has been shipped DHL. Delivery estimate Dec. 27 to Jan. 10.
Good luck.


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> But if my mobo has the exact plug that you say and the monitor can do a lower res, why is it flicking thru those colours? It should be able to display right?
> Sorry just a little confused still ><


There is a difference between DVI-I (which is probably what your onboard has) and DVI-D. You need the dual or the picture will not show up. While the connectors may look the same, the pinouts are slightly different.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> I finally got the shipping message around 3:30AM EST. That was a relief.
> 
> And you got it by the end of the week? It seems for many of the other members here it only took about 3 days to get their monitor and they live in the other side of the world.


It all depends on how long it spends in customs, and really no one knows how long that is going to take to process through.


----------



## Tiger S.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledger*
> 
> Same here got an email that the monitor has been shipped DHL. Delivery estimate Dec. 27 to Jan. 10.
> Good luck.


I got one also. I'm thinking next week though, there are two holiday off days this work week in the US.


----------



## Pinecallado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledger*
> 
> Same here got an email that the monitor has been shipped DHL. Delivery estimate Dec. 27 to Jan. 10.
> Good luck.


Good luck to you too! Hopefully we both won't have to wait until next week to see our monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> There is a difference between DVI-I (which is probably what your onboard has) and DVI-D. You need the dual or the picture will not show up. While the connectors may look the same, the pinouts are slightly different.
> It all depends on how long it spends in customs, and really no one knows how long that is going to take to process through.


My package was cleared by customs about a hour ago. It went quicker than I expected.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiger S.*
> 
> I got one also. I'm thinking next week though, there are two holiday off days this work week in the US.


I just found out DHL is closed not only on Christmas but the day after Christmas. I guess I could forget about getting my monitor on Thursday. But since it took only a few hours for the package to travel from South Korea to the US do you think a miracle might happen and my package ends up getting delivered to tomorrow? My package is in Ohio which is only two states away from NJ...


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> Good luck to you too! Hopefully we both won't have to wait until next week to see our monitor.
> *My package was cleared by customs about a hour ago. It went quicker than I expected.*
> I just found out DHL is closed not only on Christmas but the day after Christmas. I guess I could forget about getting my monitor on Thursday. But since it took only a few hours for the package to travel from South Korea to the US do you think a miracle might happen and my package ends up getting delivered to tomorrow? My package is in Ohio which is only two states away from NJ...


Mine 'cleared' in a day, but then sat in Anchorage, AK for another day. What surprised me though was that in 1 night it got to the sorting facility and was out for delivery the next day... and that was a Saturday.


----------



## Edgexcore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> Try just running your second card as primary without sli if you can and see if it still does it. Second card may be going bad. Before that I would check previous drivers. I know I have driver issues with sli 780ti I can run black ops 2 or crysis 2 in sli or I reboot. A lot of people in the 780ti forums have the same issue. Also try another sli bridge if you have one.
> 
> Is the issue doing that in a game or in windows desktop?


I have switched cards, no effect. Seems both cards are in working order. Both cards individually run super smooth









I tried 320 drivers, SLI is good to go with no lag, but I am unable to overclock past 96 (I have tested my max to be 122hz w no lines on the latest 331 drivers.)

tried 327 drivers, SLI laggy, no problem overclocking monitor.

Latest 331 drivers, SLI laggy, no prob overclocking monitor.

I am using Driver Sweeper each change BTW. I think my next step is to go back to 320 and go from there, maybe i forgot to full patch that time around...

I find it odd that adding a new monitor is causing such an issue with my drivers now...


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> Good luck to you too! Hopefully we both won't have to wait until next week to see our monitor.
> My package was cleared by customs about a hour ago. It went quicker than I expected.
> I just found out DHL is closed not only on Christmas but the day after Christmas. I guess I could forget about getting my monitor on Thursday. But since it took only a few hours for the package to travel from South Korea to the US do you think a miracle might happen and my package ends up getting delivered to tomorrow? My package is in Ohio which is only two states away from NJ...


Wow! Got to Ohio pretty quick. Damn it, mine still has a ways to go to Nevada. I hope you get your monitor tomorrow.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This might be more related to HTPC being broke by the nvidia driver patch. The cable would not cause this specific type of issue. Questions i would ask is does this literally NOT happen doing anything else on the computer? Other videos? What type of codecs, sample rates, bit rates, etc of the video?
> 
> I would also try re-installing the drivers without the patch and try your content again.


Sorry for initially not answering your questions, I thought those were addressed to someone else. As far as I know this has only happened when I start up and episode on HBO Go. No other video does this. After the episode starts playing and this static stuff occurs to my monitor, if I turn off the monitor the video I hear stops playing and then quickly resumes when my monitor comes back on. When the monitor comes back on I can see the rest of the episode fine!


----------



## asuka10456

Right now I have a X-Star DP2710 Glossy without the tempered glass. Anywhere I can order a normal glossy from? I have one that is glossy without the tempered glass, not sure how big the difference would be if they sit next to each other. Also is the Qnix variant identical? If it is, I guess that is another one I can try to hunt down without tempered glass.

Also anyone knows if there would be any issues using 2 of these at 120hz with a GTX 760(ASUS GTX760-DC2OC-2GD5)?

Right now I'm currently having issues running a single one of these Monitors with this Video Card. At first it was fine for about a week, now my graphics drivers keep crashing, tried completely removing them, reinstalling betas, older drivers etc. Also have the same card and monitor in my wife's rig, she had the same issue but it seemed to just to be a power supply problem for her, it was fixed. In my case. I haven't figured it out.

If anyone can provide information, that would be great. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Psychohack

I ended up buying the ASUS instead of the QNIX/X-Star. Kind of glad I did. It cost a bit more (but still the cheapest price $499), but I have peace of mind, a perfect screen with excellent backlighting, and a nice stand with pivot. Also a better warranty.

It overclocks to 80Hz easily. It will go to 85, but one time I had it no resync when switching resolutions, so I backed if off to 80. 86-87 gives you some static and 88-89 won't come on. So 80 seems to be the sweet stable spot. I played Crisis for a couple hours no problem. I know it is not quite as fast as the Korean ones, but all the other pluses outweigh the extra speed for me. Also, I don't have time for a ton of tweaking, fixing, modifying stands, etc., so for me I think this was a wise choice.

My computer is definitely faster than my monitor







Had to turn on V-sync because I was getting tearing. FPS was way into the triple digits on Crysis. 4770k and 780 Ti etc.

Anyway, I just thought I would report back in case anyone else is considering a name brand local purchase vs. Korean.....

I am using the Display Port connector which is nice because it passes audio, but......
The speakers suck. I was using the speakers in my 32" TV and they were fine, but even for a not very demanding person the ASUS speakers are too quiet. You have to turn everything all the way up and they sound like a 70's portable radio.


----------



## taafe

Please someone help.. accessorieswhole from ebay have just got back to me saying there gloss monitor has sold out but I can get my money back, matte or tempered glass. Which is the closest to a glossy? Or which would be better? I cannot believe this I so wanted it for Christmas day


----------



## Psychohack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Please someone help.. accessorieswhole from ebay have just got back to me saying there gloss monitor has sold out but I can get my money back, matte or tempered glass. Which is the closest to a glossy? Or which would be better? I cannot believe this I so wanted it for Christmas day


Get Matte because the tempered glass they have now is just a piece of glass over a matte display.....none of the glossy benefits and just something else in the way of a matte screen degrading it further.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Psychohack, what is the model of your ASUS monitor?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Sorry for initially not answering your questions, I thought those were addressed to someone else. As far as I know this has only happened when I start up and episode on HBO Go. No other video does this. After the episode starts playing and this static stuff occurs to my monitor, if I turn off the monitor the video I hear stops playing and then quickly resumes when my monitor comes back on. When the monitor comes back on I can see the rest of the episode fine!


Yeah HBO Go does *not* use HDCP


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Yeah HBO Go does *not* use HDCP


Whats HDCP? Any way around it?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> I ended up buying the ASUS instead of the QNIX/X-Star. Kind of glad I did. It cost a bit more (but still the cheapest price $499), but I have peace of mind, a perfect screen with excellent backlighting, and a nice stand with pivot. Also a better warranty.
> 
> It overclocks to 80Hz easily. It will go to 85, but one time I had it no resync when switching resolutions, so I backed if off to 80. 86-87 gives you some static and 88-89 won't come on. So 80 seems to be the sweet stable spot. I played Crisis for a couple hours no problem. I know it is not quite as fast as the Korean ones, but all the other pluses outweigh the extra speed for me. Also, I don't have time for a ton of tweaking, fixing, modifying stands, etc., so for me I think this was a wise choice.
> 
> My computer is definitely faster than my monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to turn on V-sync because I was getting tearing. FPS was way into the triple digits on Crysis. 4770k and 780 Ti etc.
> 
> Anyway, I just thought I would report back in case anyone else is considering a name brand local purchase vs. Korean.....
> 
> I am using the Display Port connector which is nice because it passes audio, but......
> The speakers suck. I was using the speakers in my 32" TV and they were fine, but even for a not very demanding person the ASUS speakers are too quiet. You have to turn everything all the way up and they sound like a 70's portable radio.


Are you running 1440p or 1080P ? cause I get no tearing at 1440p at 120hz on Crysis 3 lol.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Whats HDCP? Any way around it?


High Definition Content Protection and no , but its only for moview bought online like iTunes digital downloads and such, kind of a protection on the movies so it signs it to you only making it harder to pirate them off


----------



## Zenophobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Psychohack, what is the model of your ASUS monitor?


I'm betting it's an 1080p monitor


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Whats HDCP? Any way around it?


Jetlitheone is right about the HDCP. Do you use the patcher and CRU or Nvidia control panel to overclock you monitor?

I just started using the Nvidia control panel and have had better luck. I can watch Netflix with the windows 8 app and it used to give me a problem if I used the patch and cru. With Nvidia control panel HDCP doesn't seem to be a problem for me. IDK if it will help your HBO issue but it worked for my Netflix issue. With the patcher and CRU the Netflix app would just sit there loading and then say problem delivering content or something along those lines, now it just loads like it should. I believe it says in the OP that the full patcher will break HDCP content if you use it.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Well, If that is the case then 1440P still has a big advantage.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

So use the patcher?


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> Get Matte because the tempered glass they have now is just a piece of glass over a matte display.....none of the glossy benefits and just something else in the way of a matte screen degrading it further.


Thanks ive asked for the matte although im annoyed at accessorieswhole because they clearly saif they had 10 in stock and they probably know most wanted ask for the money back there'd just go with matte or tempered anyways hopefully ive made the right decision


----------



## Psychohack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Are you running 1440p or 1080P ? cause I get no tearing at 1440p at 120hz on Crysis 3 lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Are you running 1440p or 1080P ? cause I get no tearing at 1440p at 120hz on Crysis 3 lol.


1440p on Crysis 1 which does not have a V-Sync check mark in the options. You have to turn it on manually. I actually turned on adaptive V-Sync in the Nvidia controls to correct it. Having a computer fast enough that you have to use it is not necessarily a bad thing







I was getting triple digit FPS in Crysis and the monitor is only 80hz, so this makes tearing happen at times....V-sync slows it down and syncs the FPS with the monitors refresh rate.

In your case, you probably won't see tearing unless you have V-Sync off and your computer is able to spit out more than 120 FPS (more than this will be faster than 120Hz can display properly).....I don't have Crisis 3, but it may have a V-sync option in the graphics settings (if it is on you should not see tearing). I don't think you can display FPS in Crysis 3 without another program from what I read. In Crysis 1 you just hit the "`" key (above the tab on the left) and type in r_DisplayInfo = 1 to turn it on.

The resolution has nothing to do with tearing typically other than it does affect how many FPS your computer can spit out. Lower resolution would actually make tearing easier to occur...

In other words.....you might not be getting tearing because you computer is not fast enough to make it happen, or you might have V-sync on or multiple buffering or other means of dealing with it......


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> 1440p on Crysis 1 which does not have a V-Sync check mark in the options. You have to turn it on manually. I actually turned on adaptive V-Sync in the Nvidia controls to correct it. Having a computer fast enough that you have to use it is not necessarily a bad thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting triple digit FPS in Crysis and the monitor is only 80hz, so this makes tearing happen at times....V-sync slows it down and syncs the FPS with the monitors refresh rate.
> 
> In your case, you probably won't see tearing unless you have V-Sync off and your computer is able to spit out more than 120 FPS (more than this will be faster than 120Hz can display properly).....I don't have Crisis 3, but it may have a V-sync option in the graphics settings (if it is on you should not see tearing). I don't think you can display FPS in Crysis 3 without another program from what I read. In Crysis 1 you just hit the "`" key (above the tab on the left) and type in r_DisplayInfo = 1 to turn it on.
> 
> The resolution has nothing to do with tearing typically other than it does affect how many FPS your computer can spit out. Lower resolution would actually make tearing easier to occur...
> 
> In other words.....you might not be getting tearing because you computer is not fast enough to make it happen, or you might have V-sync on or multiple buffering or other means of dealing with it......


My computer is definitely not fast enough to run Crysis 3 at over 120fps... lol not many people have a PC that fast


----------



## Psychohack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Thanks ive asked for the matte although im annoyed at accessorieswhole because they clearly saif they had 10 in stock and they probably know most wanted ask for the money back there'd just go with matte or tempered anyways hopefully ive made the right decision


Dealing with all this crap is a big part of why I just went to Micro Center and got an ASUS......it was too easy since they are not far from my work. No hassles. I sacrificed 16-40 Hz worth of speed, but I got a perfect picture, no backlight bleed, no crappy stand, no crappy bezel, more inputs, pivot, OSD, speakers (crappy ones), warranty....etc for $218 more. And I still have over 3 weeks more to try it out and return for any reason I want. I can still change my mind and get a QNIX (although after a weekend with the ASUS, I doubt that will happen).


----------



## kris319

I just picked up two QX2710s and I have to say I'm very impressed coming from a 24" tn panel. I have one running at 120hz with no issues by simply creating a custom profile in Nvidia control panel.

I just purchased an X rite i1 Display pro and I have no idea what setting to select in regards to ccfl, wide gamut ccfl, white led and rgb led, some input would be greatly appreciated. I'm pretty sure it's a noob question but my knowledge on monitors is no where near that of PCs.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kris319*
> 
> I just picked up two QX2710s and I have to say I'm very impressed coming from a 24" tn panel. I have one running at 120hz with no issues by simply creating a custom profile in Nvidia control panel.
> 
> I just purchased an X rite i1 Display pro and I have no idea what setting to select in regards to ccfl, wide gamut ccfl, white led and rgb led, some input would be greatly appreciated. I'm pretty sure it's a noob question but my knowledge on monitors is no where near that of PCs.


White led calibration afaik


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> Dealing with all this crap is a big part of why I just went to Micro Center and got an ASUS......it was too easy since they are not far from my work. No hassles. I sacrificed 16-40 Hz worth of speed, but I got a perfect picture, no backlight bleed, no crappy stand, no crappy bezel, more inputs, pivot, OSD, speakers (crappy ones), warranty....etc for $218 more. And I still have over 3 weeks more to try it out and return for any reason I want. I can still change my mind and get a QNIX (although after a weekend with the ASUS, I doubt that will happen).


I feel you! I hope I don't regret buying the QX2710. It sucks buying something and having to gamble on a brand new monitor. And then the hassle of trying to return something to South Korea!







For my protection I did purchase the Square Trade warranty, don't know if paying the extra $50 is even worth it.


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> Dealing with all this crap is a big part of why I just went to Micro Center and got an ASUS......it was too easy since they are not far from my work. No hassles. I sacrificed 16-40 Hz worth of speed, but I got a perfect picture, no backlight bleed, no crappy stand, no crappy bezel, more inputs, pivot, OSD, speakers (crappy ones), warranty....etc for $218 more. And I still have over 3 weeks more to try it out and return for any reason I want. I can still change my mind and get a QNIX (although after a weekend with the ASUS, I doubt that will happen).


I feel like exchanging a couple emails is well worth saving $218.


----------



## Psychohack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cbrazeau1115*
> 
> I feel like exchanging a couple emails is well worth saving $218.


How does a couple emails fix the design issues...?


----------



## cbrazeau1115

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> How does a couple emails fix the design issues...?


While the stand is wobbly, so are plenty of other monitors. Bezel is fine, backlight bleed is fine and fixable if not fine, pixels are a risk on any monitor - difference here being your getting a monitor from Korea and not a warehouse in your home nation.

So for $200 less I have a little more hassle if I need to return it and no formal warrenty. Ill take that deal every time.


----------



## Psychohack

I guess I am different. I think it is worth $200 for an A or A+ panel, warranty, solid very adjustable pivot stand, no risk of bad pixels (for 30 days I can return for any reason and then standard warranty afterwards) etc etc. .....However, it was not an easy decision. I debated and reaearched for days and I entirely understand why someone would choose these panels.


----------



## RedLegion

WOW! What an amazing monitor. Got it working no problem and it was set to 120 Hz right away without any noticeable problems.

One question though, is there anything else I need to do to fix the darkness in the colors? And should I have a color profile or anything?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedLegion*
> 
> WOW! What an amazing monitor. Got it working no problem and it was set to 120 Hz right away without any noticeable problems.
> 
> One question though, is there anything else I need to do to fix the darkness in the colors? And should I have a color profile or anything?


You can just adjust the gamma. For me on catalyst control center I do 1.35 gamma for 110hz and 1.25 gamma for 96hz passes all gamma tests. As far as colors they look great to me.


----------



## ledger

Just got a text that my DHL shipment will arrive tomorrow with my QX2710!
That's crazy the package was shipped Dec 23 & I'll have it on the 24th.......


----------



## Pinecallado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledger*
> 
> Just got a text that my DHL shipment will arrive tomorrow with my QX2710!
> That's crazy the package was shipped Dec 23 & I'll have it on the 24th.......


That's great for you!







I hope my package arrives tomorrow too!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



It wouldn't be fair if it didn't. The package is just two states away


----------



## RedLegion

Another question. I had to unhook my HDMI monitor to get my Qnix to work. Can I only run one monitor through my 7950?


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> That's great for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope my package arrives tomorrow too!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't be fair if it didn't. The package is just two states away


I'm in Nevada, there's no way I'd get mine & not you. You are so much closer to Ohio.
I did receive a text but not an email in regards to delivery also when I check DHL Tracking it does not show expected delivery date.
I hope the text is legit!


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedLegion*
> 
> Another question. I had to unhook my HDMI monitor to get my Qnix to work. Can I only run one monitor through my 7950?


Shouldnt have to, Im driving a TV with cloned view on it over HDMI at the same time to 1080 resized.
Desktop and videos work, Just games go blank.

Was anoying to set up tho and after each driver gpu driver re-install. Since it defaults to HDMI first and DVI screen goes blank until I set it up as primary then clone it.
Being TV is in another room is the hardest bit, Since cant see what im doing with out getting up and down a few times.


----------



## Pinecallado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledger*
> 
> I'm in Nevada, there's no way I'd get mine & not you. You are so much closer to Ohio.
> I did receive a text but not an email in regards to delivery also when I check DHL Tracking it does not show expected delivery date.
> I hope the text is legit!


Has your tracking status moved from

"7 Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA" yet?

From doing a little research on google I learned that when its still on that status it probably means that only the paperwork has been transferred to Ohio and cleared by customs. Not the actual package weirdly. Must be to make the process faster.

So this means that the package is still traveling from Korea to the US. It didn't travel to the US in the speed of light like I thought.

But this earlier post from one of the members still gives me hope we might get it tomorrow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> So after looking at my old tracking it looks like they send the paperwork first and then the monitor arrives in Cincinnati later..Here is my tracking..As you will see when my monitor actually arrived in Cincinnati..So number 8 is when your monitor is actually in the US..
> 
> Friday, May 24, 2013 Location Time
> 17 Delivered - Signed for by : JOSH ORANGE 10:56
> 
> 16 With delivery courier IRVINE, CA - USA 10:13
> 
> 15 Arrived at Delivery Facility in IRVINE - USA IRVINE, CA - USA 09:31
> 
> 14 Departed Facility in LOS ANGELES GATEWAY - USA LOS ANGELES GATEWAY, CA - USA 08:46
> 
> 13 Processed at LOS ANGELES GATEWAY - USA LOS ANGELES GATEWAY, CA - USA 08:46
> 
> 12 Arrived at Sort Facility LOS ANGELES GATEWAY - USA LOS ANGELES GATEWAY, CA - USA 06:51
> 
> 11 Departed Facility in CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 05:41
> 
> 10 Processed at CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 04:12
> 
> 9 Clearance processing complete at CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 03:34
> 
> 8 Arrived at Sort Facility CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 03:31
> 
> Thursday, May 23, 2013 Location Time
> 7 Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 13:56
> 
> 6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 21:57
> 
> 5 Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 20:40
> 
> 4 Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 20:35
> 
> 3 Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 19:30
> 
> 2 Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 19:29
> 
> 1 Shipment picked up


----------



## jim2point0

If there's anyone else curious as to what timings might work for 5120x2880, here's what I've managed so far:


----------



## Jetlitheone

Why doesnt 4k work in games?

Plus it looks terrible







lol


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> Has your tracking status moved from
> 
> "7 Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA" yet?
> 
> From doing a little research on google I learned that when its still on that status it probably means that only the paperwork has been transferred to Ohio and cleared by customs. Not the actual package weirdly. Must be to make the process faster.
> 
> So this means that the package is still traveling from Korea to the US. It didn't travel to the US in the speed of light like I thought.
> 
> But this earlier post from one of the members still gives me hope we might get it tomorrow.


Tracking status is the same as yours.
Here is the text I got, "DHL shipment #180******* is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Can't sign for it? Leave signed note w/tracking # or visit http://www.dhl-usa.com/ondemand"
I believe we will get them tomorrow!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jim2point0*
> 
> If there's anyone else curious as to what timings might work for 5120x2880, here's what I've managed so far:


Try some of those bios tweaks and/or power management hacks i sent you and you will likely be able to raise that refresh quite a bit. Any refresh that you try and apply that gives those 5 pixels at the top of the screen should give a working display if the data rate is set to 3D mode when the resolution is applied.

But i bet that looks quite amazing in games(excluding the excessive hardware requirements).


----------



## HardwareDecoder

well i'm happy it seems I can do 1100 core / 110hz on my 290/qnix. Tested for a few days now on tons of games.


----------



## fouBelieve

Just curious before i get my gpu to test,
If im running 2 qnix screens, does the resolution become higher than 1440p?
If i overclock them, should i try and overclock them on the same hz? Because it will be from only one gpu.
Is there anything i need to do different to the overclock guide for dual monitors?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Just curious before i get my gpu to test,
> If im running 2 qnix screens, does the resolution become higher than 1440p?
> If i overclock them, should i try and overclock them on the same hz? Because it will be from only one gpu.
> Is there anything i need to do different to the overclock guide for dual monitors?


You aren't gonna be able to run 2x 1440p screens @ a decent frame rate on any single gpu. You are taking about eyefinity or whatever the NVidia equivalent is I assume?


----------



## fouBelieve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> You aren't gonna be able to run 2x 1440p screens @ a decent frame rate on any single gpu. You are taking about eyefinity or whatever the NVidia equivalent is I assume?


Hi id be buying a non reference r9 290 when it comes out. I will only be gaming on one screen and the other is for other purposes like web browsing or work.
I thought that would have been fine.
Whoops, what a waste of money lol


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Hi id be buying a non reference r9 290 when it comes out. I will only be gaming on one screen and the other is for other purposes like web browsing or work.
> I thought that would have been fine.
> Whoops, what a waste of money lol


oh, if you are just gaming on one and using the other for browsing or whatever it will be fine. It will slow down games maybe 1-3 fps or something but that is it.

a 290 will work great. I'm loving my 290x with my 1440 qnix.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Why doesnt 4k work in games?
> 
> Plus it looks terrible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


For many games you may have to modify the game config file to enable a 4K resolution. Many games to date do not yet have proper support for 4K resolutions. Also if your 4K downsampled resolution uses a non native refresh rate(like 52hz or something) you will need to add a resolution to CRU fo that refresh at a native resolution for it to show up properly in games/applications(like entering [email protected]).

Lastly it looks horrible since you are very likely on the desktop and no-one really wants to anti-alias the desktop since it blurs everything a bit and shrinks the UI way too low. However in games downsampling is the best method by far to implement AA(even though it is the most resource hog and brute force attack method).


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Did you point it to the folder with the qnix driver by selecting let me pick manually?
> Once you set it up into eyefinity or surround it will only load 1 color profile on restart. It can't load all 3.


The Spyder loader is not that good IMO. I use Color Profile Keeper to load multiple color profiles and it works.

Windows loader and Nvidia's LUT is 8-bit, so that causes banding. AMD's LUT is 10-bit (there are hacks to enable 10-bit monitor support on AMD cards even), so they can use dithering to avoid banding on 8-bit monitors.

So, avoid Windows loader and use external loaders like dispwin (ArgyllCMS) and CPK.

Also, try to shift away to using HCFR and dispcalGUI + ArgyllCMS, they're superior and allow multi-monitor calibration easily.


----------



## fouBelieve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> oh, if you are just gaming on one and using the other for browsing or whatever it will be fine. It will slow down games maybe 1-3 fps or something but that is it.
> 
> a 290 will work great. I'm loving my 290x with my 1440 qnix.


Well yeah thats what i thought until you confused me haha









What i wanted to know was:

1. If im running 2 qnix screens, does the resolution become higher than 1440p?
Or is it still 1440p x 2 monitors, if that makes sense

2. If i overclock them, should i try and overclock them on the same hz? Because it will be from only one gpu.

3. Should i just overclock the one monitor ill be gaming on

4. In general, is there anything i need to do different to the overclock guide for dual monitors that i wouldnt do if i was just oc one screen?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> Get Matte because the tempered glass they have now is just a piece of glass over a matte display.....none of the glossy benefits and just something else in the way of a matte screen degrading it further.


Not necessarily true. Some are tempered glass and glossy. For the 100th time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> Dealing with all this crap is a big part of why I just went to Micro Center and got an ASUS......it was too easy since they are not far from my work. No hassles. I sacrificed 16-40 Hz worth of speed, but I got a perfect picture, no backlight bleed, no crappy stand, no crappy bezel, more inputs, pivot, OSD, speakers (crappy ones), warranty....etc for $218 more. And I still have over 3 weeks more to try it out and return for any reason I want. I can still change my mind and get a QNIX (although after a weekend with the ASUS, I doubt that will happen).


My qnix is much better quality than the asus pb278q i had. Few other people have reported the same. Your the first to say the asus is better and to be fair... you haven't seen the qnix in action. Enjoy your monitor.


----------



## Pinecallado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledger*
> 
> Tracking status is the same as yours.
> Here is the text I got, "DHL shipment #180******* is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Can't sign for it? Leave signed note w/tracking # or visit http://www.dhl-usa.com/ondemand"
> I believe we will get them tomorrow!


Its a Christmas miracle! I hope your package is marked "With delivery courier" too!



Now to play the waiting game. If I miss this Truck today then I won't be able to get my package until Friday....


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Well yeah thats what i thought until you confused me haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What i wanted to know was:
> 
> 1. If im running 2 qnix screens, does the resolution become higher than 1440p?
> Or is it still 1440p x 2 monitors, if that makes sense
> 
> 2. If i overclock them, should i try and overclock them on the same hz? Because it will be from only one gpu.
> 
> 3. Should i just overclock the one monitor ill be gaming on
> 
> 4. In general, is there anything i need to do different to the overclock guide for dual monitors that i wouldnt do if i was just oc one screen?


1. It becomes 5120x1440
2. I have 3 overclocked to the same, why would want one differnet?
3. You can, but its great to have all of them overclocked.
4. Its the same.


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> Its a Christmas miracle! I hope your package is marked "With delivery courier" too!
> 
> Now to play the waiting game. If I miss this Truck today then I won't be able to get my package until Friday....


My DHL status is still on Step #11, but according to your previous post for the package that went to Los Angeles
that person received their package the same day so there is still hope for me!
You do have the option of leaving a signed note on your door but that's probably not very safe.


----------



## Psychohack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Not necessarily true. Some are tempered glass and glossy. For the 100th time.:


100% True! The seller he was looking at only had tempered glass with a matte panel! I contacted them myself because I was looking at the same monitor.....yes there have been glossy panel with glass, but not in this case.

" Hi

Thanks for contacting us.
It is glass in front of a matte screen.

If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you.

- accessorieswhole"

It doesn't get any more true than that....

As for the Asus monitor....each person has to decide for themselves what they can live with or deal with. Mechanically the Asus is great, the stand is great, it adjusts up and down easily and has a lot of range, the bezel fits perfect, it tilts well, it pivots good, the plastic is high quality, the plastic is not glossy, it's heavy for its size, it doesn't wobble, etc etc. And I got a perfect panel with no backlight bleeding or dead pixels or anything. A small few complained about some issues with the buttons and other random issues, but you have a warranty to take care of those issues without paying extra and in most cases ASUS actually responded to any negative reviews with an offer for help.

Your going to pay more...no way around that, so if you have $320 and getting more is a problem, then the choice is easy....

You will always find some bad reviews on every monitor, but with the Korean monitors, people are expecting certain issues and then happy if they don't experience them. With a name brand monitor that costs more, people are expecting perfection, so any little thing trips a complaint....so it's all a matter of perspective.

One bad thing about the Korean monitors that I was struggling with is....you know your getting a reject panel. This is just the way it is, something about it did not pass QC, weather you want to admit it or are tuned to seeing it, it's still a reject for some reason and many are not because of dead pixels (so buying pixel perfect does not mean it is not a reject for some other reason). It may be very minor and it could even be something that is not seen once together....but its a gamble.

Anyway, you get what you pay for in this world. It always seems to hold true. Of course this all depends on the type of person you are, how picky you are, and how much time your willing to put into something to make it right. The Korean monitors are worth what your paying as long as your not being duped by some of the ones that are priced too high. I am not bashing them. They are a viable option and in some ways (speed) they are better than the name brands. However, your not stuck at 60 Hz with the ASUS. Most seem to get 80-85 out of them.

For me, I don't have much free time to mess with stuff and I will pay more for less troubles and hassles. It was not always this way though. 20 years ago, I would have bought the Korean monitor just because it was cheaper and I would have rolled the dice, but as you get older, have kids, work more, commute longer, etc. your view on value changes. Money is easier to get and time is harder to find......

I am also super picky, so one bad pixel, a bowed out frame, or other issue would irritate me. If I got one with a problem, I would have a hard time living with it and so I just avoided the possibility by paying more and buying locally. I am sure I am in the minority on this thread...so please don't think I am trying to talk anyone out of the Korean monitor. I was very close to buying one myself and it was not an easy choice.


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> 100% True! The seller he was looking at only had tempered glass with a matte panel! I contacted them myself because I was looking at the same monitor.....yes there have been glossy panel with glass, but not in this case.
> 
> " Hi
> 
> Thanks for contacting us.
> It is glass in front of a matte screen.
> 
> If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
> Thank you.
> 
> - accessorieswhole"
> 
> It doesn't get any more true than that....
> 
> As for the Asus monitor....each person has to decide for themselves what they can live with or deal with. Mechanically the Asus is great, the stand is great, it adjusts up and down easily and has a lot of range, the bezel fits perfect, it tilts well, it pivots good, the plastic is high quality, the plastic is not glossy, it's heavy for its size, it doesn't wobble, etc etc. And I got a perfect panel with no backlight bleeding or dead pixels or anything. A small few complained about some issues with the buttons and other random issues, but you have a warranty to take care of those issues without paying extra and in most cases ASUS actually responded to any negative reviews with an offer for help.
> 
> Your going to pay more...no way around that, so if you have $320 and getting more is a problem, then the choice is easy....
> 
> You will always find some bad reviews on every monitor, but with the Korean monitors, people are expecting certain issues and then happy if they don't experience them. With a name brand monitor that costs more, people are expecting perfection, so any little thing trips a complaint....so it's all a matter of perspective.
> 
> One bad thing about the Korean monitors that I was struggling with is....you know your getting a reject panel. This is just the way it is, something about it did not pass QC, weather you want to admit it or are tuned to seeing it, it's still a reject for some reason and many are not because of dead pixels (so buying pixel perfect does not mean it is not a reject for some other reason). It may be very minor and it could even be something that is not seen once together....but its a gamble.
> 
> Anyway, you get what you pay for in this world. It always seems to hold true. Of course this all depends on the type of person you are, how picky you are, and how much time your willing to put into something to make it right. The Korean monitors are worth what your paying as long as your not being duped by some of the ones that are priced too high. I am not bashing them. They are a viable option and in some ways (speed) they are better than the name brands. However, your not stuck at 60 Hz with the ASUS. Most seem to get 80-85 out of them.
> 
> For me, I don't have much free time to mess with stuff and I will pay more for less troubles and hassles. It was not always this way though. 20 years ago, I would have bought the Korean monitor just because it was cheaper and I would have rolled the dice, but as you get older, have kids, work more, commute longer, etc. your view on value changes. Money is easier to get and time is harder to find......
> 
> I am also super picky, so one bad pixel, a bowed out frame, or other issue would irritate me. If I got one with a problem, I would have a hard time living with it and so I just avoided the possibility by paying more and buying locally. I am sure I am in the minority on this thread...so please don't think I am trying to talk anyone out of the Korean monitor. I was very close to buying one myself and it was not an easy choice.


Great post. I'm sure you bought the right monitor. I know that buying the Korean monitors is a gamble but it is a viable option for some of us to get 2550x1440 resolution and having a good chance to overclock to 120hz.

And of course then there is the downside with the quality control, dead pixels, & bleeding.








For the $200 - $300 price difference I guess that is a chance some of us are willing to take.
It still baffles me how they can offer free shipping and still make money on the sale.


----------



## TelFiRE

They make money on these because they are defect panels that would otherwise go in the trash.

Not to scare anyone away, usually the defect is minor enough that it won't affect your experience.


----------



## DiceAir

So I have some issues running this screen properly on my R9-280x crossfire. i have connected both crossfire connectors on my cards. so when i run 96Hz on my desktop and my cards going in full clocked down mode. 300mhz core and 150 memory I get green dots etc etc in media playback and sometimes it will scree jump. the only way that I can fix this is by forcing my gpu to 500mhz core and 1500mhz memory. I'm using LCD reduced. Is there any way of fixing this so that I can enjoy power saving and lower temps while still having 96Hz?

Just naother note when I leave everything default and just push the hz to 96Hz then my top card stays at 500MHz/1500MHz and don't downclock but my idle temps is something like 47C with 30% fan speed. on 40% fan speed I get some coil whie but my Graphics cards is working fine.

Hope this is enough info. Thanks


----------



## Loktar Ogar

^ I'm still thinking what ASUS monitor Psychohack talks about? This would be my 2nd question, the first question was directly asked to him...


----------



## Psychohack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledger*
> 
> Great post. I'm sure you bought the right monitor for you. I know that buying the Korean monitors is a gamble but it is a viable option for some of us to get 2550x1440 resolution and having a good chance to overclock to 120hz.
> 
> And of course then there is the downside with the quality control, dead pixels, & bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the $200 - $300 price difference I guess that is a chance some of us are willing to take.
> It still baffles me how they can offer free shipping and still make money on the sale.


Labor prices







They may be paying cheaper Korean prices on their end for the shipping as well (not sure on that one). I am sure they are getting the panels near, at, or below the manufacturers cost since they did not meet QC standards (which is probably their cousin down the street). They did hardly any R&D, kept the electronics to a minimal which saved on Engineering time and cost to produce. They are not following a strict approved vendor list on properly tested "name brand" electronic components. They are very likely using cheap knockoffs of simple things like transistors and capacitors, etc. Their mark up is smaller than the big names because they are selling directly from Korea with no USA distribution costs. Etc. Etc.

There is a huge difference between a Korean designed, made, and distributed product and a "name brand" designed, dictated, and manufactured in Korea product. Name brands have to protect their name brands. QNIX can just change their name tomorrow and lose nothing....I did work as a manufacturing engineer (with electronics degree) and visited China several times to oversee several outsourcing projects







I was also the guy that had to analyze the samples and review every component they used. Well you usually get crap the first couple times around and you have to force them to use an approved vendor list on components or you will get substandard stuff.

I am not going to go into it to deeply, but having an approved vendor list for every single component vs them just building it their way is a HUGE difference. I have seen them take a USA designed and built product and make their version without an AVL and it was night and day just looking at them. And once you get into the electronic components, forget it.....they have some crazy junk components in China. They even copy name brand spec sheets line for line that it is so obvious they never did the proper testing to generate their own spec sheets. It is ridiculous. Anyway, you can get stuff made overseas that is super high quality, but if it is not dictated and controlled by a "Brand Name", forget it....they will do the bare minimum and cheap out everything just to maximize profit. It's almost like they are predators pushing the limits of what they can get away with, but when held to the fire, they will and can produce great things.

Anyway, that is a bit off topic and a whole careers worth of discussion.....but does come back to the "You get what you pay for"....most of the time.

Every once in a while a "name brand" will make a mistake and slap their name on something they aren't controlling. For instance I bought a Sharp TV on black Friday. Piece of junk. It worked, but the picture quality was terrible. The old LCD fluorescent backlit Samsung I was replacing looked way better. Anyway, after some research I found out it was "Licensed by Sharp", Made in China, For Best Buy, and even had Best Buy on the manufacturers sticker in the Back........not a real Sharp product! They just sold their name and let them put it on there! I have a Real Sharp Aquos Quattron and it looks fantastic". But still. "I got what I paid for"....$400 for a Sharp 50" LED TV...what a joke. I had to take it back and buy a $700+ TV so I could get something that was actually good. Of course most people would have been happy campers with it had they not known the difference or had a quality TV to compare to, or more money to spend.


----------



## Psychohack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> ^ I'm still thinking what ASUS monitor Psychohack talks about? This would be my 2nd question, the first question was directly asked to him...


I bought the ASUS PB278Q. It took me days and a lot of reading and research to decide though. Most of the reviews on it are very good. I think there are over 200 reviews on amazon and you can find others. I also found out people were able to overclock them some so your not stuck with 60Hz.

Also, I had to go to Micro Center for something else and they got 3 of the ASUS in stock. They had none the week before, and they had the cheapest price I could find anywhere ($499). Had this not been the case I may have ordered the Korean monitor and rolled the dice. It was not an easy choice, but the whole "30 days return for any reason" and "have it now" pretty much made me decide was worth buying and trying. I could simply drive it over there to return it if I wasn't satisfied for ANY reason. Being Christmas (buying lots of presents), real estate and personal property tax time, and just building a near $2k computer taken into account...spending the extra money was a factor heavily weighed.
So far I am happy with the decision....but the luxury is I still have until next month with nothing to lose if I want to return it. And I also have Asus warranty after that. You can also purchase microcenters warranties if your really paranoid


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> I bought the ASUS PB278Q. It took me days and a lot of reading and research to decide though. Most of the reviews on it are very good. I think there are over 200 reviews on amazon and you can find others. I also found out people were able to overclock them some so your not stuck with 60Hz.
> 
> Also, I had to go to Micro Center for something else and they got 3 of the ASUS in stock. They had none the week before, and they had the cheapest price I could find anywhere ($499). Had this not been the case I may have ordered the Korean monitor and rolled the dice. It was not an easy choice, but the whole "30 days return for any reason" and "have it now" pretty much made me decide was worth buying and trying. I could simply drive it over there to return it if I wasn't satisfied for ANY reason. Being Christmas (buying lots of presents), real estate and personal property tax time, and just building a near $2k computer taken into account...spending the extra money was a factor heavily weighed.
> So far I am happy with the decision....but the luxury is I still have until next month with nothing to lose if I want to return it. And I also have Asus warranty after that. You can also purchase microcenters warranties if your really paranoid


Good decision.







If i have the chance i will do the same but my funds are limited.


----------



## xGHOSTx

So if I want to get a real glossy panel now, there's almost no chance anymore? I know there are some users who got glossy behind the tempered glass, but from reading here it seems chances are slim.


----------



## Hardrock

Ok guys here is my solution for the Qnix Stand. First off, I love my old Dell Monitor stand so I wanted to find a way to use the stock Dell 2407 monitor stand I had with the VESA mount on the Qnix Display.

The first issue is that Dell uses a proprietary snap in VESA mount on there monitors that will only work with other Dell monitors. There are no screw holes to go with 100mm or 75mm VESA mounts.

STOCK BRACKETT:



You need to replace the stock dell backplate with the Dell VESA mounting adapter plate below

DELL VESA ADAPTER PLATE




The plate is available on Ebay for $15.00 . The 4 mounting screws that came with the VESA plate ( To attach the back plate to the monitor) were about 1/8 of an inch to long so I had to cut them down with a hacksaw. You could just as easily for to Lowes and buy some shorter screws.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400628424577?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The stock Dell Stand has 2 alignment posts
STOCK ALIGNMENT POSTS ON STOCK DELL MOUNT



For my monitor I had to overdrill these two holes on the VESA adapter plate so the guide holes would fit to my Dell Stand alignment posts:
OVER DRILL THESE HOLES ON DELL VESA ADAPTER PLATE



Personally I think the Dell stands are about the best out there. I was glad to find a solution to allow me to keep my favorite stand. Hopefully this will help some people out. Also, I used some sticky tape to mount a USB 3.0 hub on the back for extra connectivity.

There are numerous Dell stands available for purchase on Ebay,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-24-Computer-Monitor-Stand-/251405353657?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item3a88ed42b9

A word of warning, there are a few Dell stands that use a different mounting pattern. So, If you are planning on buying a stand online please compare the screw mounting patterns on the stock Dell stand you are planning to order with the VESA plate to make sure they are the same. Good luck, here are some pics on my final set up.

*>> TO CLARIFY <<* The stand that I use below is for a Dell 2407wfp Ultrasharp monitor. That monitor weighs 18lbs. The Qnix has enough weight for the tension on the stand spring to work properly. If you are going to buy a monitor stand online, I suggest you look up the stock monitor it is associated with to make sure that the weight of the Qnix is close to the stock Dell monitor weight.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGHOSTx*
> 
> So if I want to get a real glossy panel now, there's almost no chance anymore? I know there are some users who got glossy behind the tempered glass, but from reading here it seems chances are slim.


It still looks beautiful. For the price, nothing beats it.


----------



## Gilly225

Tried out the down-sampling...must of done something wrong bc my 1440p picture looked better


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So I have some issues running this screen properly on my R9-280x crossfire. i have connected both crossfire connectors on my cards. so when i run 96Hz on my desktop and my cards going in full clocked down mode. 300mhz core and 150 memory I get green dots etc etc in media playback and sometimes it will scree jump. the only way that I can fix this is by forcing my gpu to 500mhz core and 1500mhz memory. I'm using LCD reduced. Is there any way of fixing this so that I can enjoy power saving and lower temps while still having 96Hz?
> 
> Just naother note when I leave everything default and just push the hz to 96Hz then my top card stays at 500MHz/1500MHz and don't downclock but my idle temps is something like 47C with 30% fan speed. on 40% fan speed I get some coil whie but my Graphics cards is working fine.
> 
> Hope this is enough info. Thanks


anyone?


----------



## jim2point0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Try some of those bios tweaks and/or power management hacks i sent you and you will likely be able to raise that refresh quite a bit. Any refresh that you try and apply that gives those 5 pixels at the top of the screen should give a working display if the data rate is set to 3D mode when the resolution is applied.
> 
> But i bet that looks quite amazing in games(excluding the excessive hardware requirements).


It looks absolutely insane in-game but yeah, I definitely lack the hardware to even hit 20 FPS< let alone 30 FPS. At least in Assassin's Creed 4.

*Here's an example of how perfect the AA is though.* Mmmm.... all those perfectly smooth lines









I'd prefer higher refresh rates on my resolutions if possible so I'll still look into any tweaks I can do.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGHOSTx*
> 
> So if I want to get a real glossy panel now, there's almost no chance anymore? I know there are some users who got glossy behind the tempered glass, but from reading here it seems chances are slim.


I used to own a glossy korean monitor (Shimian). And now have a tempered Qnix. Can't say I can tell a difference between the screens. Both are beautiful and look glossy.

Athough I only used the qnix for about thirty minutes as it is my Christmas present for tomorrow. But had to test it out.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> anyone?


anything more than 60 hz and your card is not going to go back to the default idle speed.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> anything more than 60 hz and your card is not going to go back to the default idle speed.


my 290x does....


----------



## Pinecallado

Does anyone know the latest DHL delivers? Its almost 6:00 and they still haven't't showed up yet









EDIT:IT CAME! IT CAME! IT CAME! Funny it finially came around ^6:00PM









I PRAY TO THE CHRISTMAS ANGEL THERE'S NO DEAD PIXELS AND MINIMUM BACKLIGHT BLEED! I PRAY TO THE CHRISTMAS ANGEL THERE'S NO DEAD PIXELS AND MINIMUM BACKLIGHT BLEED! I PRAY TO THE CHRISTMAS ANGEL THERE'S NO DEAD PIXELS AND MINIMUM BACKLIGHT BLEED!


----------



## RedLegion

Any ways to fix the monitor issue im having? Have my Qnix up and running as my main monitor on my 7950, but whenever I plug in my other Asus through HDMI to run as a secondary, my Qnix turns off.. When they are both plugged in I cant make my Qnix primary or do anything to extend it.


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pinecallado*
> 
> Does anyone know the latest DHL delivers? Its almost 6:00 and they still haven't't showed up yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:IT CAME! IT CAME! IT CAME! Funny it finially came around ^6:00PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I PRAY TO THE CHRISTMAS ANGEL THERE'S NO DEAD PIXELS AND MINIMUM BACKLIGHT BLEED! I PRAY TO THE CHRISTMAS ANGEL THERE'S NO DEAD PIXELS AND MINIMUM BACKLIGHT BLEED! I PRAY TO THE CHRISTMAS ANGEL THERE'S NO DEAD PIXELS AND MINIMUM BACKLIGHT BLEED!


Good luck. I got my monitor, no dead pixels but bleeding & other screen imperfections.
Screen looks great in everything just when there are black backgrounds it's very noticeable, LOL!
I will email the seller & send some photos, hopefully he will except an exchange.
There is now way this is considered slight bleeding.


----------



## Hardrock

That "light bleed" along the entire bottom of the screen may indicate that the metal frame around the panel isn't seated correctly or its bent. It would be very easy to pop off the front bezel and take a look at it. A bit of electrical tape and some elbow grease may get you fixed. Good luck either way.


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> That "light bleed" along the entire bottom of the screen may indicate that the metal frame around the panel isn't seated correctly or its bent. It would be very easy to pop off the front bezel and take a look at it. A bit of electrical tape and some elbow grease may get you fixed. Good luck either way.


Thanks for the reply. I will probably try the tape mode. The only thing that worries me is the right side bottom having some jagged imperfections.
Do you think that is fixable?


----------



## Hardrock

If you find a part of your monitor without any issues and press on the adjacent frame you will see the pixels go dark. I am not 100% sure but the whole problem you are having could be from an incorrectly seated or bent frame pushing on the panel causing pixel distortion and light bleed. Its worth a shot to try and fix it. If you press on frame in the lower right corner what happens ? Do the light bleed or dark areas change at all ? FYI the frame come off very very easily. 4 screws in the back, flip the screen over and gently pop it off.

This link about stand removal shows how to do it. Really easy don't be worried.

http://www.technologyx.com/featured/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/2/


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> If you find a part of your monitor without any issues and press on the adjacent frame you will see the pixels go dark. I am not 100% sure but the whole problem you are having could be from an incorrectly seated or bent frame pushing on the panel causing pixel distortion and light bleed. Its worth a shot to try and fix it. If you press on frame in the lower right corner what happens ? Do the light bleed or dark areas change at all ? FYI the frame come off very very easily. 4 screws in the back, flip the screen over and gently pop it off.
> 
> This link about stand removal shows how to do it. Really easy don't be worried.
> 
> http://www.technologyx.com/featured/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/2/


I'm going to remove the frame & see what's going on in there.
When I press on the right corner the light bleeds but I can still the jagged lines through it, if that makes any sense.


----------



## Hardrock

Well see what you get. There may be permanent damage to the panel


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> my 290x does....


My core does,but not the memory, maybe it's a crossfire thing, I don't know. I just set it back to 60hz when im done so it idles at default.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Hey guys trying to find some good timings for 120hz as I get the occasional blue lines that show up. Got a nice new cable but it seems when I set the timings too low I get lines permanently and when it's too high I get flickers (usually only in dark scenes and such in movies and games) any help would be appreciated !

Merry Christmas


----------



## Hardrock

I have been having trouble getting to 120 Hz as well. If anyone got some timings please, please post em up. Merry Christmas BTW !


----------



## lightsout

Woot, wife let me bust out the monitor tonight. Merry Christmas to me! Loving it. Haven't seen any defects so far.


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Well see what you get. There may be permanent damage to the panel


Loosening the 4 screws actually helped a bit. I did take the front bezel off & checked the metal frame but it wasn't really that
tight around the screen. I still see some of the jagged lines on the right bottom but it's not that bad.
Tomorrow I will try a bit more.


----------



## Hardrock

Glad to hear you made some progress. Hopefully you can tweak it some more tomorrow. Also, check to make sure the panel is sitting correctly in the case.


----------



## conzilla

Alright i finally have enough money to order one. Is the general consensus greensum or what? And should i go for a pixel perfect monitor or is it a waste of money? I have also read that overclocking may have harmfull effects or is this a load of crap. Last question is i have a r9 290 will i need any extra cables? Thanks all for your help.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psychohack*
> 
> 100% True! The seller he was looking at only had tempered glass with a matte panel! I contacted them myself because I was looking at the same monitor.....yes there have been glossy panel with glass, but not in this case.
> 
> " Hi
> 
> Thanks for contacting us.
> It is glass in front of a matte screen.
> 
> If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
> Thank you.
> 
> - accessorieswhole"
> 
> It doesn't get any more true than that....
> 
> As for the Asus monitor....each person has to decide for themselves what they can live with or deal with. Mechanically the Asus is great, the stand is great, it adjusts up and down easily and has a lot of range, the bezel fits perfect, it tilts well, it pivots good, the plastic is high quality, the plastic is not glossy, it's heavy for its size, it doesn't wobble, etc etc. And I got a perfect panel with no backlight bleeding or dead pixels or anything. A small few complained about some issues with the buttons and other random issues, but you have a warranty to take care of those issues without paying extra and in most cases ASUS actually responded to any negative reviews with an offer for help.
> 
> Your going to pay more...no way around that, so if you have $320 and getting more is a problem, then the choice is easy....
> 
> You will always find some bad reviews on every monitor, but with the Korean monitors, people are expecting certain issues and then happy if they don't experience them. With a name brand monitor that costs more, people are expecting perfection, so any little thing trips a complaint....so it's all a matter of perspective.
> 
> One bad thing about the Korean monitors that I was struggling with is....you know your getting a reject panel. This is just the way it is, something about it did not pass QC, weather you want to admit it or are tuned to seeing it, it's still a reject for some reason and many are not because of dead pixels (so buying pixel perfect does not mean it is not a reject for some other reason). It may be very minor and it could even be something that is not seen once together....but its a gamble.
> 
> Anyway, you get what you pay for in this world. It always seems to hold true. Of course this all depends on the type of person you are, how picky you are, and how much time your willing to put into something to make it right. The Korean monitors are worth what your paying as long as your not being duped by some of the ones that are priced too high. I am not bashing them. They are a viable option and in some ways (speed) they are better than the name brands. However, your not stuck at 60 Hz with the ASUS. Most seem to get 80-85 out of them.
> 
> For me, I don't have much free time to mess with stuff and I will pay more for less troubles and hassles. It was not always this way though. 20 years ago, I would have bought the Korean monitor just because it was cheaper and I would have rolled the dice, but as you get older, have kids, work more, commute longer, etc. your view on value changes. Money is easier to get and time is harder to find......
> 
> I am also super picky, so one bad pixel, a bowed out frame, or other issue would irritate me. If I got one with a problem, I would have a hard time living with it and so I just avoided the possibility by paying more and buying locally. I am sure I am in the minority on this thread...so please don't think I am trying to talk anyone out of the Korean monitor. I was very close to buying one myself and it was not an easy choice.


Yeah i also contacted the same seller and they told me 100% it will be tempered glass and glossy, then they changed it to a 50 50 chance of it being matte or glossy under the tempered glass the second time i asked. I know for a FACT that i got tempered glass and glossy (from accesorieswhole) like a few others on here. They don't know what they are selling.

As for the asus, well while these are rejects, i believe they are rejects for higher grade panels, like the top end samsung pls panels selling for $1100 here in AUS. The black levels on my asus were terrible and the matte finish was a negative. I would pick the qnix over the asus every single time.


----------



## Maverickbp

I've tried searching to see if this issue has been brought up before but amidst the 1000+ pages it eventually became too daunting.

I was looking to purchase two additional X-Star's and stand them in portrait mode for an Eyefinity setup as keeping them in landscape mode may not work as well due to how big they are. However I noticed an issue once I took a closer look at the VESA mounting on the back. The mounting holes are aligned just fine if you plan on keeping it in landscape mode as they are placed correctly in the middle going from left to right, however vertically they are placed a good couple of inches lower than center. There's at least a couple inches more space above the mounting holes than there is below it. Now I've never attempted this kind of setup before but it seems to me once the monitor is flipped vertically the bracket will be a good deal off of center to either the left or the right which may cause issues when trying to get three as close as possible side by side.

So my question is does anyone have these mounted in portrait mode and did you run into any difficulty? What did to use to accomplish it? I saw this triple stand VESA mount last night and thought for $70 it would serve nicely.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BDT072S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=36ELPQS1C5JV&coliid=I1LWA81YL0BFSD


----------



## LotionExplosion

So the volume controls don't seem to work for me on my X-Star, any idea why? I know there's no volume display on the monitor, but I can't even find my monitor on my audio sources on my computer; pic related: http://i.imgur.com/jxik9AE.png - None of these are my X-Star and regardless, I've tried them all with no luck. Yes I have show disabled and disconnected devices checked.


----------



## lightsout

Did you plug in the speaker wire?


----------



## Jetlitheone

So 100% fine now !

Tried the dvi-I and it works amazing.

Try another DVI port folks


----------



## ledger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Glad to hear you made some progress. Hopefully you can tweak it some more tomorrow. Also, check to make sure the panel is sitting correctly in the case.


Thank you for all your help.
My wife is loving the new screen. If I did not mention anything to her about the bleeding she would never even have noticed!
She says, "I don't see anything wrong with it, it's fine! LOL


----------



## zucciniknife

So I have one Qnix and one X-Star(same display) but for some reason I can't get the (x-star) display to setup in a dual display configuration on windows 8.1. GPU is a HD 7950, the ports the displays are using are both of the DVI's. Anyone have suggestions? You can PM me too if you want.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> In case you or anyone else for that matter are interested, here's an updated ICC profile. I noticed that they grey in my old profile was a bit greenish and that's eliminated with the new profile (at least for me).
> 
> Qnix QX2710 @ 96Hz, 6500k white point, 120cd/m2, 2.2 gamma and 11 clicks brightness from the minimum. Matte monitor with quite dim room lightning.
> 
> QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file


Man, I'm still loving your ICC profile. Any chance to make a 110Hz or 120?


----------



## Shepardg

So I got my X-star working, but i get alot of scan lines. I've tried two different DVI-I cables, and I guess it's possible i got two bad cables, but the chances are sorta remote right?

anyway, it works good enough for 250 bucks but here's my new dilema:

I have a 9390 Sager laptop with a 780gtx Mobile GPU.
Latest drivers from Nvidia 331.82, and the used the unlock patch that's posted in the first post of this thread.

I just got cyberlink powerdvd 13, and used their Blu-Ray Check utility and it's posting two errors 1)My driver apparently isn't HDCP compatible 2)My monitor isn't HDCP compatible.

I assume that the driver issue is because it was unlocked with the patch? but are these monitors HDCP compatible?

Trying to watch the Akira Blu-Ray i got for christmas, and I'm super sad lol

Merry christmas OC ^^


----------



## Marley217

Hi! This post is about the image retention I'm experiencing with the Qnix panel when using >60 refresh rates.

I have finally received the GTX 780, and using the Nvidia driver for overclocking could solve the problem according to some.
I tried a lot of different setups, with different timings etc, but the image retention persists. Here's the funny thing: I've found that the image retention only occurs on the rights side of the screen.
Another thing: When using refresh rates > 72 I can actually see horizontal flickering on a dark grey/dark blue is background (for instance the background on this forum), but again, only on the right side of the screen.

So why does this only occur on the right side of the screen?

In the meantime, I'm using a refresh rate of 84 when gaming, and I can't see any horizontal flickering.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shepardg*
> 
> So I got my X-star working, but i get alot of scan lines. I've tried two different DVI-I cables, and I guess it's possible i got two bad cables, but the chances are sorta remote right?
> 
> anyway, it works good enough for 250 bucks but here's my new dilema:
> 
> I have a 9390 Sager laptop with a 780gtx Mobile GPU.
> Latest drivers from Nvidia 331.82, and the used the unlock patch that's posted in the first post of this thread.
> 
> I just got cyberlink powerdvd 13, and used their Blu-Ray Check utility and it's posting two errors 1)My driver apparently isn't HDCP compatible 2)My monitor isn't HDCP compatible.
> 
> I assume that the driver issue is because it was unlocked with the patch? but are these monitors HDCP compatible?
> 
> Trying to watch the Akira Blu-Ray i got for christmas, and I'm super sad lol
> 
> Merry christmas OC ^^


When you want to watch a bluray, you will have to run the patch again to restore the driver, and go back to 60 hz. Then it will work. Only way it works unfortunately. On the other hand it only takes like 30 seconds to run the patcher and reboot.

Hope that helps


----------



## cloudbuster

As of Monday, December 23, 2013 it say this, they send it using DHL
Step Location Time
12 Forwarded for delivery DFW AIRPORT, TX - USA 10:25

Does that mean they gave the Box to another carrier?


----------



## Sedro

Does anybody know the official website of QNIX?


----------



## andom

Have a few questions:

1) Do all the QNIX QX2710 variants on ebay come with a power brick?

2) What additional accessories do I need to buy?

3) Why are some roughly around $400 and others $700.

Thanks.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

1) They should yes unless something gets screwed up. But not a common problem as far as I know and pretty much everyone has gotten one.

2) None provided you have a DVI-D port on your card. $80 or so *active* mini-DP adapters work too but not above 60Hz.

3) Not sure offhand; I have not been paying attention to the market last few months. Link to one of each?


----------



## bmancreations

I just got my third monitor, the multi input version, and its hooked up through DisplayPort, and it's making a high pitch noise.

Is it broken, or is something else going on?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Too little information man. What do the other inputs do? Troubleshoot a little please (e.g. try different stuff; trial-and-error).


----------



## zucciniknife

Does anyone know why my new xstar would not be working, it's connected through dvi right now and is recognized but settings can't be applied. And when turned on the blue power light just flashes. Any ideas on what to do?


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I just got my third monitor, the multi input version, and its hooked up through DisplayPort, and it's making a high pitch noise.
> 
> Is it broken, or is something else going on?


Might be Coil whine from the PCB. If it is, it can be fixed by putting a small bit of glue around the offending coil.

This link is for an Overloard Tempest monitor so the internals in yours may be a bit different.

http://overlordforum.com/topic/410-epoxy-fix-to-reduce-coil-whine/


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Does anyone know why my new xstar would not be working, it's connected through dvi right now and is recognized but settings can't be applied. And when turned on the blue power light just flashes. Any ideas on what to do?


You are connected through a Dual-DVI port ?


----------



## RedLegion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> So I have one Qnix and one X-Star(same display) but for some reason I can't get the (x-star) display to setup in a dual display configuration on windows 8.1. GPU is a HD 7950, the ports the displays are using are both of the DVI's. Anyone have suggestions? You can PM me too if you want.


Exact same problem here. same card and OS. Ive asked a couple times with no help.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Might be Coil whine from the PCB. If it is, it can be fixed by putting a small bit of glue around the offending coil.
> 
> This link is for an Overloard Tempest monitor so the internals in yours may be a bit different.
> 
> http://overlordforum.com/topic/410-epoxy-fix-to-reduce-coil-whine/


Seems to have fixed itself, just took 5 minutes and it went away.

Though, I can confirm that the Multi Input version does not overclock. I guess I will be wasting my other 96hz monitors when gaming


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> You are connected through a Dual-DVI port ?


Yes, either of the monitors are connected through dvi.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Seems to have fixed itself, just took 5 minutes and it went away.
> 
> Though, I can confirm that the Multi Input version does not overclock. I guess I will be wasting my other 96hz monitors when gaming


Cool, maybe it was a capacitor on the PCB charging. Overloard computers sells the overclockable PCB for that monitor but its $ 200. If you find a monitor on Ebay with a cracked screen or something you can get it cheap and swap out the PCB's, just a thought,


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zucciniknife*
> 
> Yes, either of the monitors are connected through dvi.


Oh I see you are going for a Dual monitor set up, hopefully someone will chime in on that. I am only running a single monitor.


----------



## zucciniknife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Oh I see you are going for a Dual monitor set up, hopefully someone will chime in on that. I am only running a single monitor.


Ok, I'm going to check and see if I can run it as a single real quick

EDIT: Monitor by itself does in fact work.

Thinking this may be a driver issue,any thoughts?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> my 290x does....


But how can I then get my card to fully downclock and without flickering?


----------



## bmancreations

So I have my 3 monitors setup, and trying out Nvidia surround, but something does not seem right.

The 2 side montiors, the game looks almost zoomed in, the middle is normal, but the sides are weird.

You know what I am talking about, this can't be how multiscreen gaming is like?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> So I have my 3 monitors setup, and trying out Nvidia surround, but something does not seem right.
> 
> The 2 side montiors, the game looks almost zoomed in, the middle is normal, but the sides are weird.
> 
> You know what I am talking about, this can't be how multiscreen gaming is like?


It actually may be determinant on the game your playing. Many games have resolution sets to work with 1080pX3 gaming and don't get the zoomed or "stretched" look you are seeing. Especially older games generally don't have these very high resolutions and sort of compensate to get the 1440pX3 to work. This is apparent when some members have tried gaming in 4K and have had less than desirable results.

I would try a few other games and see how it looks. If you get mixed results where some games look good and others are crappy it is likely the game is not supporting the very high resolution you have properly. If they all look bad than you might try border correction/manually entering the resolution in the games config files. Also if the resolution didn't take overall properly then you should see some of the effects on the desktop, if you don't it could be another indication that the game is badly rendering that massive pixel texture size.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Cool, maybe it was a capacitor on the PCB charging. Overloard computers sells the overclockable PCB for that monitor but its $ 200. If you find a monitor on Ebay with a cracked screen or something you can get it cheap and swap out the PCB's, just a thought,


www.emaxeon.com same thing cheaper.


----------



## DiceAir

So now even on 60hz my video playback I get small dots flickering across screen unless I force my memory on 1500mhz and core on 500mhz


----------



## Maverickbp

Did anyone see my post a few pages back regarding mounting these in portrait mode? The VESA mounting holes while centered horizontally aren't centered vertically. The holes are a good couple of inches off center so if you were to flip the monitor vertically the bracket wouldn't be directly in the center. Anyone have theirs mounted vertically? Does that cause an issue? I'd imagine if you only have one it wouldn't but I'm hoping someone here has a triple setup like I'm planning and could tell me there's experiences with it and/or what VESA mount they used to accomplish this task.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Three of these things just sounds like more trouble that it's really worth.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Three of these things just sounds like more trouble that it's really worth.


Do you say that because of my post or for some other reason? I ask because I love my monitor.


----------



## APhamX

Do these look good in an eyefinity setup?


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> It actually may be determinant on the game your playing. Many games have resolution sets to work with 1080pX3 gaming and don't get the zoomed or "stretched" look you are seeing. Especially older games generally don't have these very high resolutions and sort of compensate to get the 1440pX3 to work. This is apparent when some members have tried gaming in 4K and have had less than desirable results.
> 
> I would try a few other games and see how it looks. If you get mixed results where some games look good and others are crappy it is likely the game is not supporting the very high resolution you have properly. If they all look bad than you might try border correction/manually entering the resolution in the games config files. Also if the resolution didn't take overall properly then you should see some of the effects on the desktop, if you don't it could be another indication that the game is badly rendering that massive pixel texture size.
> www.emaxeon.com same thing cheaper.


I have tried Bioshock Infinite, and Guild Wars 2, both very new games. They both are selected as the correct resolution, so I don't believe it's the games. As I said, it's not the entire game that looks streched/zoomed, the middle screen is 100% normal. Though, what else could cause this, if not the game? And, the desktop is fine, all screens look great.

I think it might be Nvidfia Surround, as I just tried again, Guild Wars 2 looked normal, Bioshock Infinite still looks odd. It's almost random. Plus it messes with my desktop setup, and Display Fusion....so I dont even know if I am going to bother gaming on three. Since even with my high end system (and I do have a 780TI) I can't play at that res at full specs ;(

It's sad.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> Do these look good in an eyefinity setup?


I can't imagine a reason they wouldn't. One panel looks gorgeous so just imagine 3 of them! Takes quite a bit of GPU power to push that kind of setup though. Thankfully I have such a setup wasting away on one panel.


----------



## Riadon

I managed to get my QX2710 to 120 hz with LCD reduced, but with a pixel clock of 469.20 MHz. Is it really safe to run it this high? I thought I heard somewhere that the PCB is rated up to a maximum of 450 MHz or something.

I don't have any artifacts that I can notice.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Seems i'm not the only one who can only oc his 290/x so far while ocing the qnix without getting artifacts, someone else in the 290 forum has the same issue.
So it isn't just me it seems to be a problem with (some?) qnix and 290's together.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> I managed to get my QX2710 to 120 hz with LCD reduced, but with a pixel clock of 469.20 MHz. Is it really safe to run it this high? I thought I heard somewhere that the PCB is rated up to a maximum of 450 MHz or something.
> 
> I don't have any artifacts that I can notice.


The pixel clock frequency just like your CPU frequency can have a moderate overclock with absolutely no side effects. You running your monitor at 469mhz when it is rated at 450 is like running a CPU rated for 3Ghz at 3.15Ghz(only about a 5% overclock). You could potentially go lower but only if needed due to side effects(artifacts, uniformity, etc).


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Do you say that because of my post or for some other reason? I ask because I love my monitor.


No not yours so much...


----------



## bmancreations

Can the LED lights for these monitors be turned off?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Can the LED lights for these monitors be turned off?


I used a little square piece of electrical tape before i debezeled mine. You could break the LED soldering on the control board, but other than that no.


----------



## APhamX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> I can't imagine a reason they wouldn't. One panel looks gorgeous so just imagine 3 of them! Takes quite a bit of GPU power to push that kind of setup though. Thankfully I have such a setup wasting away on one panel.


I was just wondering how big the borders are, do you mind measuring? I have dual 7950's at the moment with a third 7970 in standby if needed.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> I was just wondering how big the borders are, do you mind measuring? I have dual 7950's at the moment with a third 7970 in standby if needed.


23.5mm on the sides


----------



## Maverickbp

Ya the borders are thicker than I'd like. You may be limited on your settings options with 7950's If you try to run three of these beasts. They're good cards but you won't get near the extra power adding a third card that you did when you added your second. Hopefully one day they'll fix that though but I'm not holding my breath. Even with my 290's I may need to turn a setting down here or there depending on the game I'm playing. 7680 x 1440 isn't an easy feat on some games depending on your expectations.

I originally looked at the 7950's before getting this monitor but once I saw the huge drop in performance various sites were reporting going from 1920x1080 to 2560x1440 on just one monitor I knew I better just bite the bullet and grab some 290's. Of course not every game has to be ran at max settings with everything enabled.


----------



## bmancreations

So I have a multi-input version and have to use Display Port, as my video cards two DVIs are taken.

So it will not overclock. This is disappointing (even though I knew it was very likely it wouldn't).

If I got a Active, DVI to DP connector, will that overclock? Or is it just this version of the monitor will not overclock?


----------



## APhamX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Ya the borders are thicker than I'd like. You may be limited on your settings options with 7950's If you try to run three of these beasts. They're good cards but you won't get near the extra power adding a third card that you did when you added your second. Hopefully one day they'll fix that though but I'm not holding my breath. Even with my 290's I may need to turn a setting down here or there depending on the game I'm playing. 7680 x 1440 isn't an easy feat on some games depending on your expectations.
> 
> I originally looked at the 7950's before getting this monitor but once I saw the huge drop in performance various sites were reporting going from 1920x1080 to 2560x1440 on just one monitor I knew I better just bite the bullet and grab some 290's. Of course not every game has to be ran at max settings with everything enabled.


Yeah, I'm just playing MMO's. The extra real-estate is nice for the GUI, and it isn't all that demanding. And editing videos should be a step up as my current monitors are TN panels.


----------



## Maverickbp

Ya mmo's will run fine.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> So I have a multi-input version and have to use Display Port, as my video cards two DVIs are taken.
> 
> So it will not overclock. This is disappointing (even though I knew it was very likely it wouldn't).
> 
> If I got a Active, DVI to DP connector, will that overclock? Or is it just this version of the monitor will not overclock?


I think the fact that your monitor has a scaler in it kills the option to OC.


----------



## APhamX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> 23.5mm on the sides


hmm. Thanks and repped. Mine are 20mm. Hopefully I won't noticed a difference.


----------



## DiceAir

So seeing as you need two crossfire bridges to overclock this monitor how would you run 3x r9-280x to overclock this monitor?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So seeing as you need two crossfire bridges to overclock this monitor how would you run 3x r9-280x to overclock this monitor?


I do not think you can. It works with 3x290 or 3x 290x's because they don't use bridges, but the 280x's sorry man I dont think it is possible.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

9quad you were right my memory does not downclock @ 110hz didn't notice that until you said something.


----------



## caenlen

I am hacing trouble with Nvidia custom resolution, fullscreen games that were 102hz now are limited to 60, even though nothing has changed and my desktop is still 102hz.

Nvidia has trouble sometimes forcing the monitor OC in game, any fix to this? I really want to avoid CRU if possible, it messed up my monitor last time I tried it.


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I think the fact that your monitor has a scaler in it kills the option to OC.


Ive just ordered a qnix how do I know if mine will overclock? Whats a scaler? How do I know if the monitor thats being shipped will overclock? I just thought all qnix monitors oc??


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Ive just ordered a qnix how do I know if mine will overclock? Whats a scaler? How do I know if the monitor thats being shipped will overclock? I just thought all qnix monitors oc??


if it only has a dual dvi connection then it overclocks.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> 9quad you were right my memory does not downclock @ 110hz didn't notice that until you said something.


Mine didn't downclock either, but if i select automatic lcd standard instead of manual in cru it does downclock at idle. Worth a shot.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Ive just ordered a qnix how do I know if mine will overclock? Whats a scaler? How do I know if the monitor thats being shipped will overclock? I just thought all qnix monitors oc??


The OP has the exact model number of monitor that will overclock. A monitor scaler is exactly what it sounds like, a piece of hardware that captures the data input in mid stream to "scale" it properly to the monitor's aspect ratio/pixel size. You will know if the monitor you purchased will overclock if you paid attention to the information regarding what monitor model will overclock compared to the monitor you bought. If you just "thought" all Qnix monitors overclocked then you did not do proper research on the product you just bought.

like the9quad said if it ONLY has a DVI connector chances are it will overclock, however i think many of these questions are better asked before purchasing(any item really). I think many people can buy this monitor and even with no knowledge of monitor overclocking can get on this thread and get enough help to get them on their 96-120hz merry way, but you must at least make sure you are buying the right panel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Mine didn't downclock either, but if i select automatic lcd standard instead of manual in cru it does downclock at idle. Worth a shot.


Not using standard monitor timings can cause your graphics interface from downclocking. You can also get this when using multiple monitors, a ultra high resolution(or downsampling), etc. This will not damage your GPU but may cause it to run a bit hotter. Their is a good deal of chat about this very topic in ToastyX's forum that includes some tricks to keep reduced timings but allow the graphics unit to idle down.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> I am hacing trouble with Nvidia custom resolution, fullscreen games that were 102hz now are limited to 60, even though nothing has changed and my desktop is still 102hz.
> 
> Nvidia has trouble sometimes forcing the monitor OC in game, any fix to this? I really want to avoid CRU if possible, it messed up my monitor last time I tried it.


There is an nvidia 3D setting called "preferred refresh" that can be set to highest available that will force games to use the highest refresh rate in the EDID however i don't believe this option shows up unless you have a 120hz native resolution option in the EDID(which requires CRU). You could try manually setting the overclocked refresh in the games config file(which some games require if they are older anyway). lastly you can use nvidia inspector to force most games to a certain refresh.


----------



## bmancreations

So two weird things about my new Qnix Multi Input version.

1. After my system goes to sleep, when it turns back on, wakes up, any windows I left over there, have been moved to my other monitors. Uh what?
2. That high pitch noise I was talking about (someone said maybe PCB was getting ready) seems to come back temporarily.

Not major issues, but those on-top of it not overclocking, and having the worst backlight bleed so far, I am not happy. (I have two XStars, no problems). Yes, I can fix the BLB, and I knew it would 99% not overlcock, but still. I wish a single GPU had three Dual Link DVIs


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Mine didn't downclock either, but if i select automatic lcd standard instead of manual in cru it does downclock at idle. Worth a shot.


that worked +rep


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedro*
> 
> Does anybody know the official website of QNIX?


In the OP, under "Relevant manufacturer and discussion/information links (Click to show)" there lies the link for "Qnix Manufacturer website"

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Seems to have fixed itself, just took 5 minutes and it went away.
> 
> Though, *I can confirm that the Multi Input version does not overclock.* I guess I will be wasting my other 96hz monitors when gaming


I will add this information to the FAQ section in the OP.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> So two weird things about my new Qnix Multi Input version.
> 
> 1. After my system goes to sleep, when it turns back on, wakes up, any windows I left over there, have been moved to my other monitors. Uh what?
> 2. That high pitch noise I was talking about (someone said maybe PCB was getting ready) seems to come back temporarily.
> 
> Not major issues, but those on-top of it not overclocking, and having the worst backlight bleed so far, I am not happy. (I have two XStars, no problems). Yes, I can fix the BLB, and I knew it would 99% not overlcock, but still. I wish a single GPU had three Dual Link DVIs


1. If your computer runs on an SSD, "sleep" and "hibernate" are useless. Just turn your comp on/off completely and it will be as fast as sleep/hibernate. Also, sometimes with ssds, sleep/hibernate have unforeseen side effects on them. If you dont run on an ssd, idk lol.









2. Maybe coil whine, as mentioned previously.

Even connecting the multi-input monitor via dual-link DVI will not result in it being able to overclock. Multi-input monitors cannot overclock, period. It is due to their PCB design.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I'm using custom timings for 110hz that i've posted here plenty of times and my memory still doesn't downclock.... Whats up with that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Mine didn't downclock either, but if i select automatic lcd standard instead of manual in cru it does downclock at idle. Worth a shot.


can't use standard because the pixel clock is too high for 110hz I think? I'll try again later I guess.

I'm also ordering a 3ft dvi cable from monoprice cause I want to see if it fixes my issue of not being able to overclock my video card fully when running my monitor @ 110hz.

Someone else has the same problem as me and I'm wondering if a shorter wire might help. At any rate I think a 3ft wire might let me get that last 10hz


----------



## bmgjet

Here are a few problems iv come across using the screen overclocked.

In power settings turning the screen off with the PC it wont turn back on until PC is restarted.
ULPS crashes windows.
GPU doesnt overclock as high.
GPU doesnt downclock fully only to 925mhz from 1ghz instead of the 500mhz.
When running dual screen it will only run at 60hz.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Here are a few problems iv come across using the screen overclocked.
> 
> In power settings turning the screen off with the PC it wont turn back on until PC is restarted.
> ULPS crashes windows.
> GPU doesnt overclock as high.
> GPU doesnt downclock fully only to 925mhz from 1ghz instead of the 500mhz.
> When running dual screen it will only run at 60hz.


1. Use a black screensaver and/or use a screen saver that changes the refresh back to 60hz thus eliminating this issue
2. ULPS is for money saving not overclocking
3. Can be true especially with AMD but you will have to gauge the trade-off or get a better GPU(you are only going to loose 2-4% anyways)
4. Not idling can be caused by non standard timings and can also be caused by having multiple monitors connected. I would check both of these.
5. Actually when running dual screen you should still be able to run higher than 60hz if it is entered into the EDID(CRU). If you are basing this off of tests(UFO test, refreshrate multitool) then you are likely still running higher than 60hz the tests just don't run accurately with multiple monitors active.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 1. Use a black screensaver and/or use a screen saver that changes the refresh back to 60hz thus eliminating this issue
> 2. ULPS is for money saving not overclocking
> 3. Can be true especially with AMD but you will have to gauge the trade-off or get a better GPU(you are only going to loose 2-4% anyways)
> 4. Not idling can be caused by non standard timings and can also be caused by having multiple monitors connected. I would check both of these.
> 5. Actually when running dual screen you should still be able to run higher than 60hz if it is entered into the EDID(CRU). If you are basing this off of tests(UFO test, refreshrate multitool) then you are likely still running higher than 60hz the tests just don't run accurately with multiple monitors active.


I am wondering that also, so if I connect a secondary monitor to the same gpu (or even my mobo integrated) I should still be running 110hz on my qnix for gaming? Like bf4 will let you select your timings such as 60hz or 110hz even. I want to run a second monitor that just shows the map all the time.

Anyway to know for sure that the qnix is still doing over 60?


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I am wondering that also, so if I connect a secondary monitor to the same gpu (or even my mobo integrated) I should still be running 110hz on my qnix for gaming? Like bf4 will let you select your timings such as 60hz or 110hz even. I want to run a second monitor that just shows the map all the time.
> 
> Anyway to know for sure that the qnix is still doing over 60?




As soon as I plug the second screen in it drops to 60hz.
You can tell because the colour changes and everything reports it as 60hz. And lose the option to select any higher.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I'm using custom timings for 110hz that i've posted here plenty of times and my memory still doesn't downclock.... Whats up with that?
> can't use standard because the pixel clock is too high for 110hz I think? I'll try again later I guess.
> 
> I'm also ordering a 3ft dvi cable from monoprice cause I want to see if it fixes my issue of not being able to overclock my video card fully when running my monitor @ 110hz.
> 
> Someone else has the same problem as me and I'm wondering if a shorter wire might help. At any rate I think a 3ft wire might let me get that last 10hz


I couldn't get passed 96.I changed to a 3ft and now I'm able to hit 120 with this cable from Amazon.
C2G / Cables to Go 26912 DVID Male/Male Dual Link Digital Video Cable, Black (1 Meter/3.28 feet)


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as I plug the second screen in it drops to 60hz.
> You can tell because the colour changes and everything reports it as 60hz. And lose the option to select any higher.


I just setup my second screen and it seems to be working fine, qnix shows up as 110hz still in CCC


----------



## Zenophobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as I plug the second screen in it drops to 60hz.
> You can tell because the colour changes and everything reports it as 60hz. And lose the option to select any higher.


how do you do this? I would love to have the map on a secondary monitor.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

hmm my battle log just kleeps saying Loading battle screen.... nothing ever happens


----------



## bmgjet

What connector is your second screen on.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> What connector is your second screen on.


dvi-d the screen works fine it's battle screen that isn't working


----------



## bmgjet

Mine is qx is on the dual link dvi and 2nd screen is on the single link dvi.
So maybe its something to do with that.

Have battle log on 2nd screen and when joining game it has battle screen button on the joining message bar.

Its funny how the battle screen shows things sooner then your games screen. When you spawn you can move around and shoot on the battle screen while the main screen is still black.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> For anyone interested i have found pushing the total pixels and lines as low as possible helped quite a bit and did reduce uniformity issues. You kinda just keep lowering it 10 at a time for pixels and 1 at a time for the lines until you reach the lowest point(meaing the screen doesn't come back or comes back with lines and what not). After doing this my overall pixel clock for [email protected] was only 443MHz. Getting the pixel clock as low as possible without rendering issues seemed to be what allowed me to go further in terms of refresh.


Just wanted to say thank you. I've been reading posts that include "front porch" and have a better understanding now. I now understand how to fix the lines when hitting 120hz. Can't wait to experiment.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> For anyone interested i have found pushing the total pixels and lines as low as possible helped quite a bit and did reduce uniformity issues. You kinda just keep lowering it 10 at a time for pixels and 1 at a time for the lines until you reach the lowest point(meaing the screen doesn't come back or comes back with lines and what not). After doing this my overall pixel clock for [email protected] was only 443MHz. Getting the pixel clock as low as possible without rendering issues seemed to be what allowed me to go further in terms of refresh.
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to say thank you. I've been reading posts that include "front porch" and have a better understanding now. I now understand how to fix the lines when hitting 120hz. Can't wait to experiment.
Click to expand...

Is there any sort of guide with all of this information put togethor?

I'm about to get my X-Star and while 96Hz would be plenty fine... getting 120Hz would be all the more nicer.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Mine is qx is on the dual link dvi and 2nd screen is on the single link dvi.
> So maybe its something to do with that.
> 
> Have battle log on 2nd screen and when joining game it has battle screen button on the joining message bar.
> 
> Its funny how the battle screen shows things sooner then your games screen. When you spawn you can move around and shoot on the battle screen while the main screen is still black.


yeah that's exactly my setup qnix on dvi-d and a dell 1080p monitor on dvi-d single link

anyway the issue was simple, cant use battlelog in hardcore, and I don't play normal so dual monitor is going to be of little use to me.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Is there any sort of guide with all of this information put togethor?
> 
> I'm about to get my X-Star and while 96Hz would be plenty fine... getting 120Hz would be all the more nicer.


unfortunately no.. It's a matter of searching. I have some links I can share. http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3920
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3940


----------



## explosion987

Hi Ya'll

Has anyone bought this from the UK recently? I would like to know the VAT charges for the UK, and the UK section of import charges in the OP seems out of date.

From here it seems like the import duty for Korean Monitors is 0%, and it just includes the standard VAT.

Can anybody from the UK confirm this?

Cheers


----------



## Gilly225

In need of quick help, trying to mount my qnix, I took apart the monitor and the clear stand. I am trying to mount it on my 3 plus 1 arm however the screws will not go all the way down in the vesa mount. I was wondering what size screws people were using. My asus fit perfectly, the qnix seems to have a smaller hole, and needs a much shorter screw.
thanks


----------



## lightsout

I had 120hz set it CRU. Rebooted and windows no longer showed the option for 120. Is it supposed to stick? I have it as the second option in CRU. In the top set of resolutions. Is there a real guide to use this app? THe thread for it doesn't have much info. Seemed like after I used it I still need to have the custom res in NV control panel. Feel like I'm doing this wrong


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *explosion987*
> 
> Hi Ya'll
> 
> Has anyone bought this from the UK recently? I would like to know the VAT charges for the UK, and the UK section of import charges in the OP seems out of date.
> 
> From here it seems like the import duty for Korean Monitors is 0%, and it just includes the standard VAT.
> 
> Can anybody from the UK confirm this?
> 
> Cheers


The reason there is no duty on that calculation is the value is wrong these monitors are 200 quid which is roughly $300, with 190 quid in the calculator (the cheapest X-Star I can find) it comes to just under 260 quid all in.
http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/saved_calculations/view_details/186842727/


----------



## explosion987

Thanks for the reply. Very helpful. I put that much as other people have suggested to ask the seller to mark it as worth $200? Would you recommend this or not?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

It is actually illegal to mark down cost (tax evasion) and many sellers won't do it anymore.

As it is illegal we cannot discuss it on this site.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Just wanted to say thank you. I've been reading posts that include "front porch" and have a better understanding now. I now understand how to fix the lines when hitting 120hz. Can't wait to experiment.


NP








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Is there any sort of guide with all of this information put togethor?
> 
> I'm about to get my X-Star and while 96Hz would be plenty fine... getting 120Hz would be all the more nicer.


Search "front porch" and skip all posts that simply say "search for front porch"


----------



## semajha

Anyone else occasionally get this test pattern of solid colors when first turning on the monitor? For an example, when I first power on my computer, i'll then power on the monitor and for a quick 1-2 sec, the monitor will flash a solid color of red, green, etc.. then go back to normal? Should I be concerned? I'm doing some searches on this phenomenon and a couple of people have actually had their monitors stuck in that mode&#8230;. Kind of worried now.







This monitor hasn't given me any other problems.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> Anyone else occasionally get this test pattern of solid colors when first turning on the monitor? For an example, when I first power on my computer, i'll then power on the monitor and for a quick 1-2 sec, the monitor will flash a solid color of red, green, etc.. then go back to normal? Should I be concerned? I'm doing some searches on this phenomenon and a couple of people have actually had their monitors stuck in that mode&#8230;. Kind of worried now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This monitor hasn't given me any other problems.


That is the monitor's test mode. The monitor going into test mode is normal but i am pretty sure it shouldn't be doing it every time you turn on the monitor. Also if it gets stuck in that mode you can always switch the monitor to another port and you should get a picture, if that doesn't work then boot up windows with another monitor and connect the Qnix AFTER getting to the desktop.


----------



## Maverickbp

No one else has theirs mounted vertically? One mounted vertically may not pose an issue but with the mounting holes being a couple inches left/right of center once you flip it vertically, I'd imagine a triple mounted setup might be problematic if you're trying to squeeze them together bezel to bezel.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> No one else has theirs mounted vertically? One mounted vertically may not pose an issue but with the mounting holes being a couple inches left/right of center once you flip it vertically, I'd imagine a triple mounted setup might be problematic if you're trying to squeeze them together bezel to bezel.


Plenty of people have mounted these vertical in surround........you just never hear from them again. Plus just debezel the monitor, use a good aftermarket stand, bypass the power connectors to run 12v power directly off your PC power supply and call it a day.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Plenty of people have mounted these vertical in surround........you just never hear from them again. Plus just debezel the monitor, use a good aftermarket stand, bypass the power connectors to run 12v power directly off your PC power supply and call it a day.


Well I was some would respond lol. The idea of debezeling these may appeal to me one day but not at first. I'm sure some have three of these mounted in an eyefinity setup without going to such extremes. I just want to know how they did it/what mount they used. I may be worrying for nothing and it may mount just fine with a traditional triple mount stand, but if I can get some assurances first that would be good.


----------



## Maverickbp

I've found my stand lol. I've been looking at getting a new chair/desk in addition to the triple monitor stand...

http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server5100/6fed2/products/40/images/181/2__14234.1347467144.940.493.jpg


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I had 120hz set it CRU. Rebooted and windows no longer showed the option for 120. Is it supposed to stick? I have it as the second option in CRU. In the top set of resolutions. Is there a real guide to use this app? THe thread for it doesn't have much info. Seemed like after I used it I still need to have the custom res in NV control panel. Feel like I'm doing this wrong


I still have to go into nvcp and manually change the res. I actually don't need cru, works just with nvcp.


----------



## lightsout

Just doing it in the NV cp didn't make it show up in windows settings and didn't show up in the ufotest. Seems to be working good now. I can't say I notice any issues when running 120hz as far as color shift out weird lines. Happy about that. I still disable it when not gaming though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I had 120hz set it CRU. Rebooted and windows no longer showed the option for 120. Is it supposed to stick? I have it as the second option in CRU. In the top set of resolutions. Is there a real guide to use this app? THe thread for it doesn't have much info. Seemed like after I used it I still need to have the custom res in NV control panel. Feel like I'm doing this wrong
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to go into nvcp and manually change the res. I actually don't need cru, works just with nvcp.
Click to expand...


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *explosion987*
> 
> Hi Ya'll
> 
> Has anyone bought this from the UK recently? I would like to know the VAT charges for the UK, and the UK section of import charges in the OP seems out of date.
> 
> From here it seems like the import duty for Korean Monitors is 0%, and it just includes the standard VAT.
> 
> Can anybody from the UK confirm this?
> 
> Cheers


There is some information (and a calculator) about this in the OP under "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help", in the section titled "VAT, Fees, Taxes by Country (Click to hide)"


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Well I was some would respond lol. The idea of debezeling these may appeal to me one day but not at first. I'm sure some have three of these mounted in an eyefinity setup without going to such extremes. I just want to know how they did it/what mount they used. I may be worrying for nothing and it may mount just fine with a traditional triple mount stand, but if I can get some assurances first that would be good.


Hey man, seen you ask a few times, only issue i have had with the vesa mounts is the holes on the monitor for the vesa mount seem a little shallow, i have seen a few others have this issue as well, meaning the screws only go say 2/3rds of the way in. I have used 2 washers on each screw to fill in the gap with no issues so far. I tried using a vesa mount desk clamp originally but the whole thing was dipping and i didn't feel it was safe, replaced it with a philips stand, it rotates and lowers and does all that cool stuff, but it is only for a 24 inch monitor and doesn't support the weight properly, it just sits in the lowest position and i dont use it in portrait mode anyway, so make sure you get a strong stand, and have a few washers handy would be my advice.


----------



## caenlen

What color profile you guys using at 120hz? I have tried several and just can't get it right.

If I go to Control Panel - Hardware 0 Display - and Calibrate through Windows - I can get it just right but there is no way to save this ICC creation so that I can enforce it through colour keeper... :/ or is there?


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Hey man, seen you ask a few times, only issue i have had with the vesa mounts is the holes on the monitor for the vesa mount seem a little shallow, i have seen a few others have this issue as well, meaning the screws only go say 2/3rds of the way in. I have used 2 washers on each screw to fill in the gap with no issues so far. I tried using a vesa mount desk clamp originally but the whole thing was dipping and i didn't feel it was safe, replaced it with a philips stand, it rotates and lowers and does all that cool stuff, but it is only for a 24 inch monitor and doesn't support the weight properly, it just sits in the lowest position and i dont use it in portrait mode anyway, so make sure you get a strong stand, and have a few washers handy would be my advice.


Ya I saw the posts about the shallow screw holes. So you haven't tried mounting it vertically in an eyefinity/surround setup then? That's my concern as trying to line up three monitors as close/even as possible when each stand arm is attached a good two inches to the left/right of center(depending on which way you flipped the monitor) could prove problematic. Horizontally there wouldn't be an issue as the vesa mounts are centered for that.

Thank you for the note about the desk clamp stand. I was looking at one on Amazon and it seemed to get pretty good reviews while looking pretty sturdy. Wonder why those people had less issues. Did you have enough space on your desk's lip for a good "clamping"? Do you think it could've been the quality of the stand you bought? Getting a triple monitor stand that only has a single base that sits on the desk seems to me would require one heavy base to support the weight. That or would require you bolt it to the desk.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Ya I saw the posts about the shallow screw holes. So you haven't tried mounting it vertically in an eyefinity/surround setup then? That's my concern as trying to line up three monitors as close/even as possible when each stand arm is attached a good two inches to the left/right of center(depending on which way you flipped the monitor) could prove problematic. Horizontally there wouldn't be an issue as the vesa mounts are centered for that.
> 
> Thank you for the note about the desk clamp stand. I was looking at one on Amazon and it seemed to get pretty good reviews while looking pretty sturdy. Wonder why those people had less issues. Did you have enough space on your desk's lip for a good "clamping"? Do you think it could've been the quality of the stand you bought? Getting a triple monitor stand that only has a single base that sits on the desk seems to me would require one heavy base to support the weight. That or would require you bolt it to the desk.


I don't know why i had issues, i re did it like 5 times, i really wanted to keep it but it just wasn't safe enough for me. I posted pics on here asking for opinions, few people agreed it didn't look right, the arm i bought was rated for up to 15kg, it was a brateck so wasn't the highest quality, but should have been adequate. I weighed the qnix and it comes in at 5.5 to 5.7 kg on my scales so shouldn't have had any issues. I think a few guys have a portrait set up on here that would be more qualified to answer than i am, just wanted to give you the info i know since you were asking and no one was helping. I know it can be frustrating people just skimming over your posts.

You could try just looking through all the pictures in the thread and finding the users that have a portrait eyefinity set up and shooting them a pm, like this guy. Doesn't seem like he has too many issues.

halodude23


----------



## kimjor

Just ordered a Qnix QX270 from Green-Sum, can't wait for it to get here and clear customs!! Crosses fingers for no dead pixels and minimal bleed!

Comming from Eyefinity 3x22" with 1680*1050 60hz where one screen died on me, so I'll be using the two left as side screens.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> I don't know why i had issues, i re did it like 5 times, i really wanted to keep it but it just wasn't safe enough for me. I posted pics on here asking for opinions, few people agreed it didn't look right, the arm i bought was rated for up to 15kg, it was a brateck so wasn't the highest quality, but should have been adequate. I weighed the qnix and it comes in at 5.5 to 5.7 kg on my scales so shouldn't have had any issues. I think a few guys have a portrait set up on here that would be more qualified to answer than i am, just wanted to give you the info i know since you were asking and no one was helping. I know it can be frustrating people just skimming over your posts.
> 
> You could try just looking through all the pictures in the thread and finding the users that have a portrait eyefinity set up and shooting them a pm, like this guy. Doesn't seem like he has too many issues.
> 
> halodude23
> 
> No I appreciate your help. You did give me something to think about when it comes to the desk clamp and thank you for that member's name. a 3x setup probably isn't "too" common and the members who have it may no longer be looking at this thread as well. Hopefully i'll find my answers soon.


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone knows if the new Planar PXL2790MW has a glossy surface (edge-to-edge glass) compare to these Korean monitors?


----------



## Zenophobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maverickbp*
> 
> Well I was some would respond lol. The idea of debezeling these may appeal to me one day but not at first. I'm sure some have three of these mounted in an eyefinity setup without going to such extremes. I just want to know how they did it/what mount they used. I may be worrying for nothing and it may mount just fine with a traditional triple mount stand, but if I can get some assurances first that would be good.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/lightbox/post/21467003/id/1813052


----------



## walmartshopper

Got my X-star from dream-seller. No dead pixels and no BLB. Haven't tried overclocking beyond 80hz yet. I removed the stand and mounted to an Ergotron LX dual stacking arm along with a Crossover 27Q and two Dell U2412s. Running the Crossover and one Dell in portrait and the X-star and other Dell in landscape. Using Arch Linux and a GTX 660.

To other Linux nvidia users: The simplest way to get them working is:

Option "IgnoreEDIDChecksum" "DFP-0, DFP-3" (where DPF-0 is the X-star and DFP-3 is the Crossover)

This will use the monitor's built-in edid and ignore the invalid checksum, so no custom edid is needed.


----------



## lightsout

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walmartshopper*
> 
> Got my X-star from dream-seller. No dead pixels and no BLB. Haven't tried overclocking beyond 80hz yet. I removed the stand and mounted to an Ergotron LX dual stacking arm along with a Crossover 27Q and two Dell U2412s. Running the Crossover and one Dell in portrait and the X-star and other Dell in landscape. Using Arch Linux and a GTX 660.
> 
> To other Linux nvidia users: The simplest way to get them working is:
> 
> Option "IgnoreEDIDChecksum" "DFP-0, DFP-3" (where DPF-0 is the X-star and DFP-3 is the Crossover)
> 
> This will use the monitor's built-in edid and ignore the invalid checksum, so no custom edid is needed.





Thats an interesting monitor layout.


----------



## Tiger S.

Got my Xstar in today as well. I will live with it for a few days before I judge. One thing I do know, the stand, speakers and packaging are as advertised.


----------



## walmartshopper

Quote:


> Thats an interesting monitor layout.


Having all four monitors mounted on ergotron arms allowed me to try some different setups, and this is the one that I found most useful. I do mostly programming, and having 1440p in portrait is perfect for writing code. Then having a 1200p in portrait is perfect for web browsing since most sites fit within the 1200px width. Then I have the X-star and second Dell for videos, games, and other things that are better suited for landscape. I have tried a 2x2 grid of all landscape and 1x4 row of all portrait, but nothing beats having one of each monitor size in each orientation. The only problem I had initially was that fonts looked ugly on the portrait monitors because of sub-pixel hinting. But I tried the Infinality font rendering patches, and now fonts look great in both portrait and landscape, although slightly better in landscape.

The stacked 27" and 24" are only 80px taller than the 27" in portrait. Screenshot of actual desktop:


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *walmartshopper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Thats an interesting monitor layout.
> 
> 
> 
> Having all four monitors mounted on ergotron arms allowed me to try some different setups, and this is the one that I found most useful. I do mostly programming, and having 1440p in portrait is perfect for writing code. Then having a 1200p in portrait is perfect for web browsing since most sites fit within the 1200px width. Then I have the X-star and second Dell for videos, games, and other things that are better suited for landscape. I have tried a 2x2 grid of all landscape and 1x4 row of all portrait, but nothing beats having one of each monitor size in each orientation. The only problem I had initially was that fonts looked ugly on the portrait monitors because of sub-pixel hinting. But I tried the Infinality font rendering patches, and now fonts look great in both portrait and landscape, although slightly better in landscape.
> 
> The stacked 27" and 24" are only 80px taller than the 27" in portrait. Screenshot of actual desktop:
Click to expand...

Thats cool, sounds like it works well for you.


----------



## theilya

is anyone having issue where if in NV panel power settings are set to adapative the monitor will flicker when video card downclocks to 300mhz or something.
This doesnt happen when I have "prefer maximum performance" set


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zenophobe*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/lightbox/post/21467003/id/1813052


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zenophobe*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/lightbox/post/21467003/id/1813052


Ya mboner1 posted that but ya. I know it can be done. I'm just wondering if they ran into any issues and if so what were they plus what mount they used.


----------



## lightsout

So I finally took some time to do some gaming. Been getting clocks sorted out with my new gpu then had to get a new motherboard. All I can say is wow. I had gamed on a 1440p in the past. But have never experienced 120hz. Its pretty sweet. Took BF4 to another level for sure.


----------



## Torethyr

Just pulled the trigger on a matte screen X-Star from dream-seller. Can't wait.

Thanks for having this thread. Helped me tremendously in making a decision.


----------



## jordanjr23

I just received my matte x-star from dreamseller. No backlight bleed or dead pixels I can see. It's been a few hours and it appears stable at 120hz no artifacts or anything funny WOOT!!!!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

So sounds like Dream Seller no longer has a lot of crap stock...but maybe that was not a totally fair assessment at the time (last summer). Could be his volume was just that much higher and people with problems are more vocal about them.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Just wondering if the 780ti is like the 290x when overclocked. It makes a qnix screen that is overclocked over 96hz, tear or artifact. I keep reading that the 290x can only overclock a tiny bit then the monitor will aryifact and would have to be down clocked. Thanks for any info. Also thoughts on a 780ti classified vs 290x dcii or lightning. Will the 4 gigof ram and 512 bit really make that big of a difference on 1440p....


----------



## bmgjet

The higher the res the more important vram and memory interface speed becomes, Especially with some form of AA.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Just received my X-Star from dreamseller.

Ordered Monday and it arrived Friday. Pretty insane coming from Korea.

VESA mounted it to the wall for full motion.

Thing I noticed right off the bat: Doesn't come with a power wire that works with U.S. plugs (had to borrow one from previous monitor). Larger viewing area and much more desktop space. Base stem is there to stay and looks ugly (base can be removed).

Things I noticed a bit later: Color is not very good out of the box, 96Hz is simple as changing a 60 to 96.

Things I noticed later: 120Hz gives off static horizontal lines, 120Hz makes colors even worse (correctable though). 120Hz makes games feel smooth as butter. Movies look awesome in both 96 and 120 mode.

Things I looked into: My monitor has moderate back light bleeding (not light but not picture destroying) but it only has 1 dead pixel in the bottom right corner. This doesn't bother me because I knew I was paying much less for an A- panel. A particular bad patch of light bleeding would probably be fixed by a tape mod anyways.

*So a few things I need help with:

Is the base stem removable or is it melded with the plastic in the bezel?
Where are some good color profiles for 120Hz / 96Hz X-Star?
edit:







They are on the first post.
How do I get rid of the few horizontal "glitch / static" lines that appear in 120Hz?
I'm guessing the base clock needs reducing but how? Currently it is at 483.3984 MHz.

Also League of Legends will just crash if not opened in 60Hz mode. It will play alright in 96Hz / 120Hz but when you first open the client it crashes.*

*edit: I got rid of video corruption in 120Hz by using these settings. Thank you immensely Spartan F8!
I'm using the 3ft. DVI-D cable the monitor came with.*


Although if you think using preconceived settings is too easy then overclocking consists of reducing "Total Pixels" by 10 and "Total Lines" by 1 until the problem goes away and you don't get a black screen.


----------



## causese1990

Hi guys. Do you still recommend this monitor?

I have a 780 Ti / 4820k (idk if it matters)

Which one should i purchase? I'M FROM EU, i hope it doesn't matter.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matt-/221240659002?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item3382f88c3a

or

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Matte-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321239742404?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item4acb6177c4


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Just received my X-Star from dreamseller.
> 
> Ordered Monday and it arrived Friday. Pretty insane coming from Korea.
> 
> VESA mounted it to the wall for full motion.
> 
> Thing I noticed right off the bat: Doesn't come with a power wire that works with U.S. plugs (had to borrow one from previous monitor). Larger viewing area and much more desktop space. Base stem is there to stay and looks ugly (base can be removed).
> 
> Things I noticed a bit later: Color is not very good out of the box, 96Hz is simple as changing a 60 to 96.
> 
> Things I noticed later: 120Hz gives off static horizontal lines, 120Hz makes colors even worse (correctable though). 120Hz makes games feel smooth as butter. Movies look awesome in both 96 and 120 mode.
> 
> Things I looked into: My monitor has moderate back light bleeding (not light but not picture destroying) but it only has 1 dead pixel in the bottom right corner. This doesn't bother me because I knew I was paying much less for an A- panel. A particular bad patch of light bleeding would probably be fixed by a tape mod anyways.
> 
> *So a few things I need help with:
> 
> Is the base stem removable or is it melded with the plastic in the bezel?
> Where are some good color profiles for 120Hz / 96Hz X-Star?
> How do I get rid of the few horizontal "glitch / static" lines that appear in 120Hz?
> I'm guessing the base clock needs reducing but how? Currently it is at 483.3984 MHz.
> 
> Also League of Legends will just crash if not opened in 60Hz mode. It will play alright in 96Hz / 120Hz but when you first open the client it crashes.*
> 
> *edit: I got rid of video corruption in 120Hz by using these settings. Thank you immensely Spartan F8!
> I'm using the 3ft. DVI-D cable the monitor came with.*
> 
> 
> Although if you think using preconceived settings is too easy then overclocking consists of reducing "Total Pixels" by 10 and "Total Lines" by 1 until the problem goes away and you don't get a black screen.


my qnix came with a 6ft dvi cable. Maybe xstar ships with a 3ft?

I'm about to order a 3ft from mono price I want to see if I can get that last 10hz to 120hz


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> Hi guys. Do you still recommend this monitor?
> 
> I have a 780 Ti / 4820k (idk if it matters)
> 
> Which one should i purchase? I'M FROM EU, i hope it doesn't matter.
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matt-/221240659002?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item3382f88c3a
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Matte-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321239742404?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item4acb6177c4


I bought my X-Star for USD $299 (EUR 218,36) from dreamseller.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


----------



## spiritfly

Can some from the EU say how many days did they wait for the monitors to arrive?

I bought one X-Star and one Qnix from different sellers to test my luck and I'm very eager to get them before New Year







They were sent to me through EMS to Macedonia, so I was wondering if anyone else got them through EMS and how many days did you wait?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Just wondering if the 780ti is like the 290x when overclocked. It makes a qnix screen that is overclocked over 96hz, tear or artifact. I keep reading that the 290x can only overclock a tiny bit then the monitor will aryifact and would have to be down clocked. Thanks for any info. Also thoughts on a 780ti classified vs 290x dcii or lightning. Will the 4 gigof ram and 512 bit really make that big of a difference on 1440p....


I don't have these issues with my 780. As far as the 290 artifacting any gpu will do that with too high an OC. 290 just has small amount of OC room on air because of heat.


----------



## causese1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I bought my X-Star for USD $299 (EUR 218,36) from dreamseller.
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


That link seems to be for US only ...and some other









i'd have to buy this one
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Matt-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-QHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-/221240657728?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item3382f88740

Do i need a plug converter too? where can i get it or what am i looking for? ( im from germany







)


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> 1. If your computer runs on an SSD, "sleep" and "hibernate" are useless. Just turn your comp on/off completely and it will be as fast as sleep/hibernate. Also, sometimes with ssds, sleep/hibernate have unforeseen side effects on them. If you dont run on an ssd, idk lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Maybe coil whine, as mentioned previously.
> 
> Even connecting the multi-input monitor via dual-link DVI will not result in it being able to overclock. Multi-input monitors cannot overclock, period. It is due to their PCB design.


Sry, that was no answer? Yes I am on SSD, what does any of that have to do with my DisplayPort MultiInput version turning off, and moving windows to my other monitors, even thougn the other two normal DVI input monitors only sleep, have to do with SSD?

Anyone else? Why is the Multiinput version turning off (red light) and moving my windows around, when my computer sleeps? The other monitors don't do this.


----------



## dezerteagle323

sorry for the dumb question, but whats the difference with the "EVO 2" model?


----------



## prostreetcamaro

Anybody else with a 290 or 290X get corruptions like this if you set your graphics cards voltage to +200? It seems me and two other people are having this issue over on the 290/290X thread. It does not do this when I connect my asus 120hz VG278H monitor up. It only does this with the qnix. It does not matter what frequency I have the monitor set to either. 60hz to 120hz they all do this.

You are looking at 60hz here. For some reason +200 extra voltage on my 290X is causing problems with the monitor itself. Very very strange.


----------



## The Storm

I have an X-star and I am using 2 unlocked 290's and I dont have any issues with my monitor, I can run it at all my preset settings 60, 96, 105, 120hz without any problems. I am on windows 8.1


----------



## Tiger S.

Seems like Dream Sellers after holiday batch of XStars are legit. Mine has no blb or dead pixels and can also oc to 120hz without any issues. Still looking for the right .icc. Asus and Samsung seem a little bright, Viewsonic is almost there, for me anyhow.


----------



## conzilla

Iam getting ready to order today is it worth the extra for the pixel perfect model. And are there any difference between the x-star and the qnix. The x-star seem to be 299 and the qnix seem to be anywhere from 330 to 400.


----------



## Torethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conzilla*
> 
> Iam getting ready to order today is it worth the extra for the pixel perfect model. And are there any difference between the x-star and the qnix. The x-star seem to be 299 and the qnix seem to be anywhere from 330 to 400.


1) No. You can still have a few dead pixels with PP and they won't replace. The non-PP tend to be alright, anyway.

2) No. The Qnix and XStar are identical. Go for the cheapest.


----------



## Vatican

So I ordered a X-Star from dream-seller and so far everything is really great. No BLB, No dead pixels...goes to 96hz but starts showing green lines at 120hz.

HOWEVER, even though it seems like there is no BLB...there is this WIERD glow like effect when i start viewing the monitor at different angles...i can't pin point what it is but it starts to glow especially on blacks. Almost like an off balance white type of glow. Any idea what this might be? I was under the impression these monitors are PLS similar to IPS which have great viewing angles.


----------



## razaice

I see the x-star is $299 right now and the qnix is a little more. Do prices on these monitors ever drop lower than this, or is the about the lowest I could expect? I'd also only be interested in the matte version.


----------



## Vatican

Definitely get the X-star, they really have minimal bleeding compared to the QNIX's. I had both and they are the same exact monitor. The X-star from dream-seller actually seems better built.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razaice*
> 
> I see the x-star is $299 right now and the qnix is a little more. Do prices on these monitors ever drop lower than this, or is the about the lowest I could expect? I'd also only be interested in the matte version.


Matte was recently $279. But there seems to be no rhyme or reason to it. I would just buy now instead of waiting a month to hopefully save $20. But thats me.


----------



## Smoot178

Greetings everyone.

Just got my QNIX and I LOVE it. Bright and beautiful. poor stand, but the stand isn't why we buy them.

I am wondering how 3 of these in surround mode on two EVGA GTX 780ti SC would fare. Anyone have any benchmarks on this? I bought this monitor along with those 2 cards and I kinda wanna try the three way surround.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I don't have these issues with my 780. As far as the 290 artifacting any gpu will do that with too high an OC. 290 just has small amount of OC room on air because of heat.


it's not because of heat, or being oc'ed too high, well it is because of being oc'ed too high but not because the card is oc'ed past what it is stable @ 60hz. I know what you are saying but it's not correct in this case.

I'm on water and my core hits 50c max. it isn't normal gpu artifacting I know what that looks like. It is full display corruption.

The way to explain it is most of us with this problem can do 1200mhz @ 60hz or 1100 mhz @ 120hz.

but not 1200mhz @ 120hz. Which doesn't completely make sense since the max monitor oc should have nothing to do with the max gpu oc

It seems to be a problem with the qnix since I think people can do 1200mhz @ 120hz on different monitors besides the qnix


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoot178*
> 
> Greetings everyone.
> 
> Just got my QNIX and I LOVE it. Bright and beautiful. **** stand, but the stand isn't why we buy them.
> 
> I am wondering how 3 of these in surround mode on two EVGA GTX 780ti SC would fare. Anyone have any benchmarks on this? I bought this monitor along with those 2 cards and I kinda wanna try the three way surround.


The GTX780ti is the fastest GPU period right now but the problem isn't speed it is VRAM. With one 1440p monitor it is recommended to have 2GB+ of VRAM, having three you will need 6GB+ to support the pixel space and not get bottlenecked. Now that doesn't mean it won't work and work well in some situations, it just means certain games with huge texture sizes will get bottlenecked. One good example is Skyrim, i have a GTX780ti and when playing skyrim on my Qnix i have seen the VRAM get to about 2.4GB. Now that is with one screen so if you triple that you are going to be getting cut short with on;ly having 3GB total usable VRAM.

Now for testing purposes i have setup my crossover, Qnix and Dell(1440p) in surround to benchmark(and borrowed a second and third GTX780ti). Needless to say using one card got destroyed in many modern games, however older games like shadowrun, Dead space 1, tomb raider anv. all were within playable FPS(around and just over 30-45) with some mainly texture or VRAM intensive settings off(AA, object detail, texture detail).

With two cards many games like BF4, Skyrim, and crysis did get a good deal better in FPS but there was a catch. At all points in the game there was always parts were i would get a BIG drop in FPS, like turning a corner and getting view of a very large area with a lot of textures visible. I know this happens to a certain extent anyway but this was different and the change was excessive. Like in Skyrim when in a cave i could get as high as 80FPS but when leaving the cave and going into open space(or "skyrim") i would drop to 20-30FPS. Battlefields results and crysis(3) were very similar. Older games ran perfectly fine on two cards, i think the somewhat raided setup of the VRAM gave it just enough to handle older textures fast enough.

With three cards the FPS increased in older games again but it was a lot less predominant. Only gaining about 25-30% in overall frames. There was also several spots that the frame were less than with 2 cards. Newer games were even worse. The increase was apparent in certain parts of the games that were very confined(skyrim cave) but any open view areas were just about the same as having two cards. Areas that i dropped to 25FPS with two cards dropped to 28-30FPS with 3.

Now one thing that made a big difference in these bottleneck points was dropping any setting that was heavily reliant on VRAM. Like in Skyrim turning texture size all the way down and turning view distance all the way down made a huge difference being outdoors. Battlefield didn't get much better in most areas but there was a difference(i think BF4 is just buggy anyway). The most convincing evidence that this is a VRAM bottleneck is that these settings changes only effected the lowest FPS and not so much the average.

So bottom line triple monitoring these with two GTX780ti's would be potentially viable if your expecting to turn a few settings down(related to VRAM use) and get no better than 60FPS(which would make overclocking a little mute). Really in this situation it may be more viable for a Titan or if a 6GB variant of the GTX780ti(higher than 6GB would be best but options are limited). VRAM overclocks also seemed to help more than what i would usually expect(10FPS from a mere 100mhz). Lastly if you do run portrait surround with 1440p monitors i highly recommend debezeling due to the thick bezel size.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> it's not because of heat, or being oc'ed too high, well it is because of being oc'ed too high but not because the card is oc'ed past what it is stable @ 60hz. I know what you are saying but it's not correct in this case.
> 
> I'm on water and my core hits 50c max. it isn't normal gpu artifacting I know what that looks like. It is full display corruption.
> 
> The way to explain it is most of us with this problem can do 1200mhz @ 60hz or 1100 mhz @ 120hz.
> 
> but not 1200mhz @ 120hz. Which doesn't completely make sense since the max monitor oc should have nothing to do with the max gpu oc
> 
> It seems to be a problem with the qnix since I think people can do 1200mhz @ 120hz on different monitors besides the qnix


This may be unrelated but i run my GTX780ti at 1241mhz and run my Qnix at 144hz while gaming in first person shooters(120hz in everything else). So if the issue was with the Qnix shouldn't it be constant between cards? Or could this be an issue with the Qnix combined with AMD cards. I also ran the Qnix at at least 120hz with a GTX 460, 570(SLI), 760, 770(SLI), 780ti. I did notice a higher potential refresh overclock with single card solutions and noticed there was a slight trade off in overclock between the monitor and VRAM(meaning with certain VRAM overclocks would limit monitor overclocks but nothing related to the GPU clocks).


----------



## razaice

This may be a very stupid question, but is it possible to run these monitors in 1080 and still have the picture fill the screen even though they don't have a scaler? I may just be misunderstanding what a scaler does.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razaice*
> 
> This may be a very stupid question, but is it possible to run these monitors in 1080 and still have the picture fill the screen even though they don't have a scaler? I may just be misunderstanding what a scaler does.


Yes you can but the GPU will have to do the scaling which can lead to a more stretched looking picture. I have ran my Qnix at pretty much every resolution with nvidia cards at least in which always worked as long as the GPU was selected to do scaling in the NVCP. I also think you have a good understanding of the GPU scaler, you just were not considering the graphics card has a scaler itself. The Qnix not being able to scale generally only limits you from being able to connect it to other non scalable devices(consoles, DVD players, many laptop DVI connectors, etc).


----------



## Smoot178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Stuff.


What sort of FPS were you getting in BF4 in SLI with 3 x 1440? I am the type that is happy with anything above 30 FPS and I wouldn't mind not going FULL ULTRA to do a surround setup at 60 FPS.

Also, was this at 120hz?


----------



## razaice

One more quick question. I noticed some of the ebay sellers mention the buyer having to pay custom taxes. Is this something that actually happens? How much would it cost? Thanks for all the help everyone.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoot178*
> 
> What sort of FPS were you getting in BF4 in SLI with 3 x 1440? I am the type that is happy with anything above 30 FPS and I wouldn't mind not going FULL ULTRA to do a surround setup at 60 FPS.


Average was about 40FPS with two GTX780ti's(this is with many VRAM settings down and the rest ultra). Also one card gives me around 24FPS and three cards was 48FPS(with the power of the GTX780ti my rig may have bottlenecking at this point). And all of these average framerates would still even with settings down drop in certain areas like i said. So the 40FPS average would drop easily to 20FPS in certain parts. Overclocking the VRAM made this a bit better keeping it over 25FPS which may work since you never know your system could be better than mine thus potentially having a slightly higher average or drops(which could keep you right at 30).


----------



## Smoot178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Average was about 40FPS with two GTX780ti's(this is with many VRAM settings down and the rest ultra). Also one card gives me around 24FPS and three cards was 48FPS(with the power of the GTX780ti my rig may have bottlenecking at this point). And all of these average framerates would still even with settings down drop in certain areas like i said. So the 40FPS average would drop easily to 20FPS in certain parts. Overclocking the VRAM made this a bit better keeping it over 25FPS which may work since you never know your system could be better than mine thus potentially having a slightly higher average or drops(which could keep you right at 30).


Last question, was this at 120hz?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoot178*
> 
> Last question, was this at 120hz?


Yes i kept the refresh at 120hz for testing. Changing the refresh didn't make a difference in FPS when i tried it at 60hz and the motion was about the same. There may have been slightly more blur at 60hz vs 120hz regardless of FPS but it wasn't much.


----------



## Ovrclck

hey guys, I've searched this thread and couldn't find an answer. When making adjustments in nvcp to say the total pixels or lines. The new changes don't stick.

In CRU, I'm able to make the changes. Do I still have to match the nvcp with CRU? Or if I mess with the timing in CRU, it bypass's windows all together? I'm trying to fix my scan line issue at 120 but it seems nothing is helping.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razaice*
> 
> One more quick question. I noticed some of the ebay sellers mention the buyer having to pay custom taxes. Is this something that actually happens? How much would it cost? Thanks for all the help everyone.


If you're in the US, there is no duty t ax.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> hey guys, I've searched this thread and couldn't find an answer. When making adjustments in nvcp to say the total pixels or lines. The new changes don't stick.
> 
> In CRU, I'm able to make the changes. Do I still have to match the nvcp with CRU? Or if I mess with the timing in CRU, it bypass's windows all together? I'm trying to fix my scan line issue at 120 but it seems nothing is helping.


CRU directly modifies the EDID(well mostly) thus bypassing windows. The settings in the NVCP don't stick unless it is a new not defined resolution/refresh, any overlaps generally go back to the default settings. Even then it is setup as a custom resolution and not a native one thus not getting detected by some games and apps. It is best to test with the NVCP to make real time changes(and not restarting constantly) to find the best timings then putting those into CRU to make the timings "stick".


----------



## conzilla

The trigger has been pulled. Now for a prayer to the monitor gods. Please let my monitor have no dead pixels and little or no back light bleed AMEN.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> CRU directly modifies the EDID(well mostly) thus bypassing windows. The settings in the NVCP don't stick unless it is a new not defined resolution/refresh, any overlaps generally go back to the default settings. Even then it is setup as a custom resolution and not a native one thus not getting detected by some games and apps. It is best to test with the NVCP to make real time changes(and not restarting constantly) to find the best timings then putting those into CRU to make the timings "stick".


My games can detect the custom resolutions no problem.
As you can see from the picture, the resolutions are already defined. It's when I try to go modify the existing resolutions after clicking yes to test is where it's not saving.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> This may be unrelated but i run my GTX780ti at 1241mhz and run my Qnix at 144hz while gaming in first person shooters(120hz in everything else). So if the issue was with the Qnix shouldn't it be constant between cards? Or could this be an issue with the Qnix combined with AMD cards. I also ran the Qnix at at least 120hz with a GTX 460, 570(SLI), 760, 770(SLI), 780ti. I did notice a higher potential refresh overclock with single card solutions and noticed there was a slight trade off in overclock between the monitor and VRAM(meaning with certain VRAM overclocks would limit monitor overclocks but nothing related to the GPU clocks).


well my 7950's ran overclocked @ 110hz @ the same max settings they did for @ 60hz just fine so I really don't know the answer man. Maybe it is just the combo of some 290/x's + qnix since some people on 290's claim to have no issues.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> My games can detect the custom resolutions no problem.
> As you can see from the picture, the resolutions are already defined. It's when I try to go modify the existing resolutions after clicking yes to test is where it's not saving.


I have seen this happen to me as well. Take a screen shot of your settings that work then delete the current custom profile for that resolution. Next keep modifying the timings until you either crash or start getting artifacts. Then save that resolution, you might even want to take screenshots as you go. Something about having a custom resolution profile already set gets the "test" feature stuck. This is actually kinda what i was stating in my post.

I have seen this when downsampling. I can tell when the "test" mode gets stuck when i can start applying outlandish settings. Like it got stuck on me when downsampling 4K and i was able to set my Qnix to [email protected] but when testing on the UFO test it showed me still at 65hz which was my previous saved profile set. Taking a screenshot, deleting, and then using the test feature seemed to fix the inaccurate "test" button. So basically you can't "save this resolution" until your done or you break "test" for that profile.

Hope this makes since as it is a bit hard to explain


----------



## kennyparker1337

Is it possible to remove the base stem on these monitors if you debezel them (but put the bezel back on)?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Is it possible to remove the base stem on these monitors if you debezel them (but put the bezel back on)?


Yes, check the OP for instructions.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have seen this happen to me as well. Take a screen shot of your settings that work then delete the current custom profile for that resolution. Next keep modifying the timings until you either crash or start getting artifacts. Then save that resolution, you might even want to take screenshots as you go. Something about having a custom resolution profile already set gets the "test" feature stuck. This is actually kinda what i was stating in my post.
> 
> I have seen this when downsampling. I can tell when the "test" mode gets stuck when i can start applying outlandish settings. Like it got stuck on me when downsampling 4K and i was able to set my Qnix to [email protected] but when testing on the UFO test it showed me still at 65hz which was my previous saved profile set. Taking a screenshot, deleting, and then using the test feature seemed to fix the inaccurate "test" button. So basically you can't "save this resolution" until your done or you break "test" for that profile.
> 
> Hope this makes since as it is a bit hard to explain


Gotcha. I guess I was confused. I figured it out. Thanks!


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> The GTX780ti is the fastest GPU period right now but the problem isn't speed it is VRAM. With one 1440p monitor it is recommended to have 2GB+ of VRAM, having three you will need 6GB+ to support the pixel space and not get bottlenecked. Now that doesn't mean it won't work and work well in some situations, it just means certain games with huge texture sizes will get bottlenecked. One good example is Skyrim, i have a GTX780ti and when playing skyrim on my Qnix i have seen the VRAM get to about 2.4GB. Now that is with one screen so if you triple that you are going to be getting cut short with on;ly having 3GB total usable VRAM.
> 
> Now for testing purposes i have setup my crossover, Qnix and Dell(1440p) in surround to benchmark(and borrowed a second and third GTX780ti). Needless to say using one card got destroyed in many modern games, however older games like shadowrun, Dead space 1, tomb raider anv. all were within playable FPS(around and just over 30-45) with some mainly texture or VRAM intensive settings off(AA, object detail, texture detail).
> 
> With two cards many games like BF4, Skyrim, and crysis did get a good deal better in FPS but there was a catch. At all points in the game there was always parts were i would get a BIG drop in FPS, like turning a corner and getting view of a very large area with a lot of textures visible. I know this happens to a certain extent anyway but this was different and the change was excessive. Like in Skyrim when in a cave i could get as high as 80FPS but when leaving the cave and going into open space(or "skyrim") i would drop to 20-30FPS. Battlefields results and crysis(3) were very similar. Older games ran perfectly fine on two cards, i think the somewhat raided setup of the VRAM gave it just enough to handle older textures fast enough.
> 
> With three cards the FPS increased in older games again but it was a lot less predominant. Only gaining about 25-30% in overall frames. There was also several spots that the frame were less than with 2 cards. Newer games were even worse. The increase was apparent in certain parts of the games that were very confined(skyrim cave) but any open view areas were just about the same as having two cards. Areas that i dropped to 25FPS with two cards dropped to 28-30FPS with 3.
> 
> Now one thing that made a big difference in these bottleneck points was dropping any setting that was heavily reliant on VRAM. Like in Skyrim turning texture size all the way down and turning view distance all the way down made a huge difference being outdoors. Battlefield didn't get much better in most areas but there was a difference(i think BF4 is just buggy anyway). The most convincing evidence that this is a VRAM bottleneck is that these settings changes only effected the lowest FPS and not so much the average.
> 
> So bottom line triple monitoring these with two GTX780ti's would be potentially viable if your expecting to turn a few settings down(related to VRAM use) and get no better than 60FPS(which would make overclocking a little mute). Really in this situation it may be more viable for a Titan or if a 6GB variant of the GTX780ti(higher than 6GB would be best but options are limited). VRAM overclocks also seemed to help more than what i would usually expect(10FPS from a mere 100mhz). Lastly if you do run portrait surround with 1440p monitors i highly recommend debezeling due to the thick bezel size.
> This may be unrelated but i run my GTX780ti at 1241mhz and run my Qnix at 144hz while gaming in first person shooters(120hz in everything else). So if the issue was with the Qnix shouldn't it be constant between cards? Or could this be an issue with the Qnix combined with AMD cards. I also ran the Qnix at at least 120hz with a GTX 460, 570(SLI), 760, 770(SLI), 780ti. I did notice a higher potential refresh overclock with single card solutions and noticed there was a slight trade off in overclock between the monitor and VRAM(meaning with certain VRAM overclocks would limit monitor overclocks but nothing related to the GPU clocks).


Wow, great information. I have a 780ti as well, and was quite disappointed in its performance with three screens. It's funny though, they keep advertising these cards "4K GAMING" and yet, the people who are going to buy these $800 cards, will be gaming with three monitors, and we can't do even 1440P (2.5K) on them. lol So stupid.

So when can I grab a single GPU, attach it to 3x 30" 4K at 120hz or higher monitors with 60+FPS.....looks like it's going to be awhile


----------



## Ovrclck

@Spartan F8 I had to reinstall my nvidia drivers. Once that was done,now I'm able to adjust my timings. 120hz at 459. Thanks again.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Wow, great information. I have a 780ti as well, and was quite disappointed in its performance with three screens. It's funny though, they keep advertising these cards "4K GAMING" and yet, the people who are going to buy these $800 cards, will be gaming with three monitors, and we can't do even 1440P (2.5K) on them. lol So stupid.
> 
> So when can I grab a single GPU, attach it to 3x 30" 4K at 120hz or higher monitors with 60+FPS.....looks like it's going to be awhile


Well on one end your right these cards do not play certain games at ultra high resolutions within acceptable framerates, really any game like BF4, Crysis3, skyrim will not play at 4K. There is just too much detail and texture size to be held in a 3GB GPU. BUT there is several games they will, games like state of decay, dead space3, and really any major mainstream game plays just fine due to the MUCH less overhead engine and graphics detail. Heck i was playing dead space 1 at 240FPS with a framerate cap(rather than vsync).

Games are advancing as fast(and sometimes faster) than graphics hardware. MOST games will play at ultra HD with a GTX780ti(especially SLI which they do recommend for 4K gaming) but there will always be games that push the edge of graphics technology and may never play at 4K without thousands of dollars of hardware(cysis) but it is good to think about the tons of games that have be out that are still played by many. My console emulators love my 780ti even at 4K downsampled.

Bottom line is uber graphics games will always be right at the limits of hardware or just out of reach. In the future the 800 and 900 series will come out, possibly be 2 to 3 times as powerful. Then a new skyrim, BF, or crysis will come out to bring them to their knees. The only way nvidia could be more honest about 4K capability is put a who bunch of "fine" print below it listing possible games, settings, and any other requirement/situation in which it will work. They just figured that the 780ti supported enough games and situations that they could get away with the marketing badge.

EDIT: Just for kicks and grins i also was able to play Shadowrun at about 460FP average so yes 4K support for most game older than 2010 or with simplified graphics engines.


----------



## taafe

I order a qnix last week from accessorieswhole ebay.uk and the tracking update stopped on 23rd December not had any updates since. I know fed ex will be busy but should I contact the seller or FedEx?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> CRU directly modifies the EDID(well mostly) thus bypassing windows. The settings in the NVCP don't stick unless it is a new not defined resolution/refresh, any overlaps generally go back to the default settings. Even then it is setup as a custom resolution and not a native one thus not getting detected by some games and apps. It is best to test with the NVCP to make real time changes(and not restarting constantly) to find the best timings then putting those into CRU to make the timings "stick".
> 
> 
> 
> My games can detect the custom resolutions no problem.
> As you can see from the picture, the resolutions are already defined. It's when I try to go modify the existing resolutions after clicking yes to test is where it's not saving.
Click to expand...

What theme is that?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Wow, great information. I have a 780ti as well, and was quite disappointed in its performance with three screens. It's funny though, they keep advertising these cards "4K GAMING" and yet, the people who are going to buy these $800 cards, will be gaming with three monitors, and we can't do even 1440P (2.5K) on them. lol So stupid.
> 
> So when can I grab a single GPU, attach it to 3x 30" 4K at 120hz or higher monitors with 60+FPS.....looks like it's going to be awhile


3 screens @1440p is considerably higher than 4k single monitor which they were touting.

3840x2160 vs effectively 7680x1440 unless I'm mistaken, 3 of these monitors is close to 8k I'm probably wrong but it's still more than 4k.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Wow, great information. I have a 780ti as well, and was quite disappointed in its performance with three screens. It's funny though, they keep advertising these cards "4K GAMING" and yet, the people who are going to buy these $800 cards, will be gaming with three monitors, and we can't do even 1440P (2.5K) on them. lol So stupid.
> 
> So when can I grab a single GPU, attach it to 3x 30" 4K at 120hz or higher monitors with 60+FPS.....looks like it's going to be awhile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 screens @1440p is considerably higher than 4k single monitor which they were touting.
> 
> 3840x2160 vs effectively 7680x1440 unless I'm mistaken, 3 of these monitors is close to 8k I'm probably wrong but it's still more than 4k.
Click to expand...

7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels is *25% more pixels* than 3840×2160 (4K) @ 8,294,400 pixels.

7680×4320 (8K) @ 33,177,600 pixels is *66% more pixels* than 7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels

So a triple 1440p monitor is a fair amount more than 4K but no where near 8K.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> 7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels is *25% more pixels* than 3840×2160 (4K) @ 8,294,400 pixels.
> 
> 7680×4320 (8K) @ 33,177,600 pixels is *66% more pixels* than 7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels
> 
> So a triple 1440p monitor is a fair amount more than 4K but no where near 8K.


Yeah there ya go, I figured I'd be wrong but it was more than 4k


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> 7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels is *25% more pixels* than 3840×2160 (4K) @ 8,294,400 pixels.
> 
> 7680×4320 (8K) @ 33,177,600 pixels is *66% more pixels* than 7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels
> 
> So a triple 1440p monitor is a fair amount more than 4K but no where near 8K.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah there ya go, I figured I'd be wrong but it was more than 4k
Click to expand...

Unrelated...

I laugh every time I see your avatar. It reminds me of this (mostly the TV bit at the very end)...


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> 7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels is *25% more pixels* than 3840×2160 (4K) @ 8,294,400 pixels.
> 
> 7680×4320 (8K) @ 33,177,600 pixels is *66% more pixels* than 7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels
> 
> So a triple 1440p monitor is a fair amount more than 4K but no where near 8K.


Umm..isnt true 4K 4096 x 2560, which would mean 3x is 12228x7680?

Nonetheless, I feel like we should still be able to game at 120hz 60+FPS at any resolution. It's hardware has slowed down, and its sad.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> What theme is that?


placebo I think. http://solmiler.deviantart.com/art/Placebo-for-Windows-7-188414149


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> What theme is that?
> 
> 
> 
> placebo I think. http://solmiler.deviantart.com/art/Placebo-for-Windows-7-188414149
Click to expand...

Thanks Bro, been out of the theme game for a while. That black one caught my eye though.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Thanks Bro, been out of the theme game for a while. That black one caught my eye though.


No worries. My pc is apart at the moment, I'll double check and let you know for sure.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Thanks Bro, been out of the theme game for a while. That black one caught my eye though.
> 
> 
> 
> No worries. My pc is apart at the moment, I'll double check and let you know for sure.
Click to expand...

Your good that link was just what I needed. Dude makes some nice stuff. Been a while since I've been on deviant.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Your good that link was just what I needed. Dude makes some nice stuff. Been a while since I've been on deviant.


right on! Enjoy


----------



## raistlinx37

What kind of customs fees if you are in the United states?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raistlinx37*
> 
> What kind of customs fees if you are in the United states?


$0


----------



## raistlinx37

Awesome! Exactly what I wanted to hear just ordered mine Friday morning.


----------



## Rodman

Hey guys thanks for the great thread and all the info. Was able to OC and add custom display profiles to my QNIX 2710. My screen currently is OC at 110hz. My concern is I have this weird pigmentation going on my display in certain game backgrounds depending the color the screen is producing at the time. It won't ever do it at regular 60hz but any overclock I will get this. Like I said can't notice it unless its certain colors displaying on the screen. Thanks again







[/URL]

btw its the weird rainbow color on the right of the screen

Ahh btw just noticed it right now while watching a video. double edit =\

I feel uber ******ed. seems to only do that at 110hz. pretty bad on my screen but you guys probably wont be able to see what im talking about


----------



## Heidi

Hey, I just got me a Qnix QX2710 with multi port board! So far s ogood...no dead pixels but no OC as well...however, I didn't tried hard to get to OC it, but just looked for most obvious control panel options. As well as that, my monitor comes with multi language menus.
I am using some of the ICC found here, but will read through forum to find info about it. Picture clarity is excellent. Very colourful and sharp. However, I am not a gamer, not one single game to play but I would like to increase fluidity of picture through increase of refresh. I'll be happy with 100Hz, as that's already 80% increase of refresh rate!
My card, Powercolor HD 7870 Myst is only a DVI-I therefore I have to use HDMI and a little bit of lag.
Will see in the near future, maybe I'll draw out my old XFX GTX285...lool!


----------



## Tiger S.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> placebo I think. http://solmiler.deviantart.com/art/Placebo-for-Windows-7-188414149


Thanks for the find, gives my desktop more of a linux feel. Very easy on the eyes


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> 7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels is *25% more pixels* than 3840×2160 (4K) @ 8,294,400 pixels.
> 
> 7680×4320 (8K) @ 33,177,600 pixels is *66% more pixels* than 7680×1440 (Triple Monitor) @ 11,059,200 pixels
> 
> So a triple 1440p monitor is a fair amount more than 4K but no where near 8K.
> 
> 
> 
> Umm..isnt true 4K 4096 x 2560, which would mean 3x is 12228x7680?
> 
> Nonetheless, I feel like we should still be able to game at 120hz 60+FPS at any resolution. It's hardware has slowed down, and its sad.
Click to expand...

There is no "true" 4K. They all are 4K.









The one you listed is the 16:10 aspect ratio one, usually used for "pro" monitors.
The one I used was the 16:9 which is used in television and there for more commonly used for displays.
There is also a film version too which is 17:9 aspect ratio (4096 × 2160).
There is yet another version that is 4:3 aspect ratio (4096 × 3072) which is allowed in Vimeo and Youtube.


----------



## bmancreations

So stupid lol

Can there ever just be one version, like codecs, containers....geeez. lol


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rodman*
> 
> Hey guys thanks for the great thread and all the info. Was able to OC and add custom display profiles to my QNIX 2710. My screen currently is OC at 110hz. My concern is I have this weird pigmentation going on my display in certain game backgrounds depending the color the screen is producing at the time. It won't ever do it at regular 60hz but any overclock I will get this. Like I said can't notice it unless its certain colors displaying on the screen. Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> btw its the weird rainbow color on the right of the screen
> 
> Ahh btw just noticed it right now while watching a video. double edit =\
> 
> I feel uber ******ed. seems to only do that at 110hz. pretty bad on my screen but you guys probably wont be able to see what im talking about


try lowering your pixel clock.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> Hey, I just got me a Qnix QX2710 with multi port board! So far s ogood...no dead pixels but no OC as well...however, I didn't tried hard to get to OC it, but just looked for most obvious control panel options. As well as that, my monitor comes with multi language menus.
> I am using some of the ICC found here, but will read through forum to find info about it. Picture clarity is excellent. Very colourful and sharp. However, I am not a gamer, not one single game to play but I would like to increase fluidity of picture through increase of refresh. I'll be happy with 100Hz, as that's already 80% increase of refresh rate!
> My card, Powercolor HD 7870 Myst is only a DVI-I therefore I have to use HDMI and a little bit of lag.
> Will see in the near future, maybe I'll draw out my old XFX GTX285...lool!


Hate to say it but the multi input version does not overclock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiger S.*
> 
> Thanks for the find, gives my desktop more of a linux feel. Very easy on the eyes


No problem! Cheers!


----------



## taafe

Dec 24 07:52 WONMI-GU BUCHEON this was the last update I had from fed ex was supposed to be delivered tomorrow


----------



## dante`afk

Does anyone know if it works to plug the Qnix ona PS3 via DVI?


----------



## Zenophobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> Does anyone know if it works to plug the Qnix ona PS3 via DVI?


I don't believe so but if it does with will not fill the screen due to the lack of a scaler.

Edited:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1454543/will-a-ps4-work-on-an-achiva-shimian-2560x1440p-monitor-help-needed


----------



## TelFiRE

Hi guys,
Does anyone have 2 other monitors paired with this in Nvidia Surround?

Perhaps other 27 inch panels that are 1080 or smaller panels that roughly fit the height when turned portrait?

Also, importantly, that have the same sync polarity, etc, because my current other 1080s are not compatible.

Thanks


----------



## cloudbuster

Dont know if this a good pic but here is mine. Cant tell if it have dead pixels waiting on the OS to finish the PC


----------



## Meteo

think I spoke too soon about my monitor. Found a stuck pixel today







Pretty sure it wasnt there before though...

good thing about it is that its only visible on a black screen. Does anyone know if there are any tricks to get rid of it?


----------



## Koslov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meteo*
> 
> think I spoke too soon about my monitor. Found a stuck pixel today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure it wasnt there before though...
> 
> good thing about it is that its only visible on a black screen. Does anyone know if there are any tricks to get rid of it?


Been awhile since I had a stuck pixel but I did fix it by using this app: http://www.jscreenfix.com/
Then using a soft pencil eraser head while pressing gently the exact area a few time


----------



## baskln

Hey everyone, I've been stalking this forum for the past few days and am itching to pull the trigger on one of these but am a bit nervous of course. I"m considering selling my Asus VE278Q to make up for some of the cost of it. I've been looking at the following:

XSTAR from Dreamseller for $299 http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

QNIX from Storewithstory for $309.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/321237616203?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

QNIX from Greensum for $319.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/121117252582?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Would any of you pick one of these over the other, or do you guys have another suggestion, or should I just go with the cheapest one, the XSTAR from Dreamseller? From what I've read it sounds like buying pixel perfect is a waste of money. I was also considering buying from ipsledmonitors, but that's going to add at least another 60 bucks after shipping and theirs being slightly more expensive.

Thanks all for the help!


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baskln*
> 
> Hey everyone, I've been stalking this forum for the past few days and am itching to pull the trigger on one of these but am a bit nervous of course. I"m considering selling my Asus VE278Q to make up for some of the cost of it. I've been looking at the following:
> 
> XSTAR from Dreamseller for $299 http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
> 
> QNIX from Storewithstory for $309.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/321237616203?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
> 
> QNIX from Greensum for $319.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/121117252582?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
> 
> Would any of you pick one of these over the other, or do you guys have another suggestion, or should I just go with the cheapest one, the XSTAR from Dreamseller? From what I've read it sounds like buying pixel perfect is a waste of money. I was also considering buying from ipsledmonitors, but that's going to add at least another 60 bucks after shipping and theirs being slightly more expensive.
> 
> Thanks all for the help!


I'm sure people have gotten good ones and bad ones from all of those sellers. DreamSeller probably sells more of them than anyone, probably because of the lower prices of the X-star being offered (sometimes they're as low as 259, mostly recently 279).

I personally purchased mine from StoreWithStory and had a great experience. Received it super quick and the monitor was free of any problems.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

So are these the best 1440p to get now? My Dell U2711 is having some problem and might get it replaced. My friend bough a Yamakasi Catleap IPS 2 year ago and the back light in one side died after 6 months and the stand was very flimsy. How reliable are these PLS screen?


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> So are these the best 1440p to get now? My Dell U2711 is having some problem and might get it replaced. My friend bough a Yamakasi Catleap IPS 2 year ago and the back light in one side died after 6 months and the stand was very flimsy. How reliable are these PLS screen?


Best? Doubtful. With these you are clearly taking a chance. The biggest advantage to these are the price and the fact that most of them are easily overclockable to at least 96hz and due to the lack of a scaler have very little input lag. Keep in mind, many of them do not retain perfect image quality when overclocked, many panels have gamma inconsistency when doing so (as in variances at different areas of the panel). Also, the enclosures/stands are pretty flimsy. However, if you're placing it on a desk, it does hold the thing up. I admit the enclosure is cheap, but it doesn't look horrible, I generally expected worse.

For the money though, I fail to find a better gaming monitor or color reproduction. They really do have great image quality, especially at default 60hz, but so will the more expensive IPS panel monitors.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> Best? Doubtful. With these you are clearly taking a chance. The biggest advantage to these are the price and the fact that most of them are easily overclockable to at least 96hz and due to the lack of a scaler have very little input lag. Keep in mind, many of them do not retain perfect image quality when overclocked, many panels have gamma inconsistency when doing so (as in variances at different areas of the panel). Also, the enclosures/stands are pretty flimsy. However, if you're placing it on a desk, it does hold the thing up. I admit the enclosure is cheap, but it doesn't look horrible, I generally expected worse.
> 
> For the money though, I fail to find a better gaming monitor or color reproduction. They really do have great image quality, especially at default 60hz, but so will the more expensive IPS panel monitors.


Overclocking is not really something i am going after. When i am comparing i know U2711 will have better build quality but these PLS monitors compare to other Koren monitors? IPS vs PLS? Also Glossy vs Matte?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> So are these the best 1440p to get now? My Dell U2711 is having some problem and might get it replaced. My friend bough a Yamakasi Catleap IPS 2 year ago and the back light in one side died after 6 months and the stand was very flimsy. How reliable are these PLS screen?
> 
> 
> 
> Best? Doubtful. With these you are clearly taking a chance. The biggest advantage to these are the price and the fact that most of them are easily overclockable to at least 96hz and due to the lack of a scaler have very little input lag. Keep in mind, many of them do not retain perfect image quality when overclocked, many panels have gamma inconsistency when doing so (as in variances at different areas of the panel). Also, the enclosures/stands are pretty flimsy. However, if you're placing it on a desk, it does hold the thing up. I admit the enclosure is cheap, but it doesn't look horrible, I generally expected worse.
> 
> For the money though, I fail to find a better gaming monitor or color reproduction. They really do have great image quality, especially at default 60hz, but so will the more expensive IPS panel monitors.
Click to expand...

I agree these things are beautiful. I have the tempered glass version and BF4 looks so nice. Color looks great. Great purchase. Just hoping it lasts. I guess we will find out.


----------



## bmancreations

I forgot the answer to this question.

If I got the normal XSTAR DVI version, but used a DVI to Displayport Adapter, would it overclock?


----------



## Rodman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> try lowering your pixel clock.


I did that thanks fixed =). I went into CRU and put LCD Reduced and that fixed the problem. 120hz won't budge though. Pretty happy with 110


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baskln*
> 
> Hey everyone, I've been stalking this forum for the past few days and am itching to pull the trigger on one of these but am a bit nervous of course. I"m considering selling my Asus VE278Q to make up for some of the cost of it. I've been looking at the following:
> 
> XSTAR from Dreamseller for $299 http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
> 
> QNIX from Storewithstory for $309.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/321237616203?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
> 
> QNIX from Greensum for $319.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/121117252582?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
> 
> Would any of you pick one of these over the other, or do you guys have another suggestion, or should I just go with the cheapest one, the XSTAR from Dreamseller? From what I've read it sounds like buying pixel perfect is a waste of money. I was also considering buying from ipsledmonitors, but that's going to add at least another 60 bucks after shipping and theirs being slightly more expensive.
> 
> Thanks all for the help!


Hey I got a Pixel perfect from Storewithstory for $325 (ebay best offer he accepted). Shipping was fast but more importantly the monitor was in great shape. I did some basic pixel tests and was unable to find a dead or stuck pixel. There a very very small amount of BLB in the lower left corner but honestly unless the screen is pitch black you cant see it. I am very happy with my set up, chugging along at 115hz all day long, no issues. Also, for what its worth this is my first attempt at overclocking a monitor so I am very pleased. I got the Matte finish version, it looks killer.

I did go ahead and slap a Dell stand on it, much better than the stock monstrosity

.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Overclocking is not really something i am going after. When i am comparing i know U2711 will have better build quality but these PLS monitors compare to other Koren monitors? IPS vs PLS? Also Glossy vs Matte?


Other korean monitors are starting to have tolerable build qualities, compared to this one. These are still some of the cheapest options, however. PLS > IPS (for the most part. Newer versions of IPS are better; most of the time you wont see them on korean monitors). Glossy if living in cave/basement, matte if you have any source of natural light in a room. The matte on these is more semi-glossy than your traditional matte. Glossy are terrible at reflecting ambient light, imo.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *baskln*
> 
> Hey everyone, I've been stalking this forum for the past few days and am itching to pull the trigger on one of these but am a bit nervous of course. I"m considering selling my Asus VE278Q to make up for some of the cost of it. I've been looking at the following:
> 
> XSTAR from Dreamseller for $299 http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
> 
> QNIX from Storewithstory for $309.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/321237616203?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
> 
> QNIX from Greensum for $319.90 http://www.ebay.com/itm/121117252582?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
> 
> Would any of you pick one of these over the other, or do you guys have another suggestion, or should I just go with the cheapest one, the XSTAR from Dreamseller? From what I've read it sounds like buying pixel perfect is a waste of money. I was also considering buying from ipsledmonitors, but that's going to add at least another 60 bucks after shipping and theirs being slightly more expensive.
> 
> Thanks all for the help!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey I got a Pixel perfect from Storewithstory for $325 (ebay best offer he accepted). Shipping was fast but more importantly the monitor was in great shape. I did some basic pixel tests and was unable to find a dead or stuck pixel. There a very very small amount of BLB in the lower left corner but honestly unless the screen is pitch black you cant see it. I am very happy with my set up, chugging along at 115hz all day long, no issues. Also, for what its worth this is my first attempt at overclocking a monitor so I am very pleased. I got the Matte finish version, it looks killer.
> 
> I did go ahead and slap a Dell stand on it, much better than the stock monstrosity
> 
> .
Click to expand...

What did you pay for that stand?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rodman*
> 
> I did that thanks fixed =). I went into CRU and put LCD Reduced and that fixed the problem. 120hz won't budge though. Pretty happy with 110


Right on!


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> What did you pay for that stand?


I have the stand from an Dell 2407wfp monitor I have. You can buy them on Ebay fro 12-40 dollars like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-24-Computer-Monitor-Stand-/251405353657?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item3a88ed42b9

If you buy a stand just double check that the weight of the monitor the stand is made for if close to the Qnix. This will ensure the spring tension in the stand is close to correct so it wont bottom out.

I explained how to adapt the stock Dell stand to the VESA mount here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/11630#post_21452437

You can get the VESA plate from here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400628424577?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

If you add all of the above stand components up, it comes to $ 37.86 with shipping !!!

It works great !


----------



## Rodman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Right on!


Gaaah! I got another question man. My SLI 780ti will not downclock at all while in 110hz now. They will downclock on my 96 and 60 hz settings but not on 110. I closed every single item on the notification bar and that won't fix the problem. Here is a pic =\. Thanks


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rodman*
> 
> Gaaah! I got another question man. My SLI 780ti will not downclock at all while in 110hz now. They will downclock on my 96 and 60 hz settings but not on 110. I closed every single item on the notification bar and that won't fix the problem. Here is a pic =\. Thanks


Try manual in CRU. Lower the total pixels 10 at a time and total lines 1 at a time until the problems disappear or take the lead reduced settings but input them manually.
I would use nvcp to make the changes. Using CRU, you would have to reboot for each change.


----------



## raistlinx37

Would asus 770gtx 4gb version in 2x sli drive 3 X- Stars ok?


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raistlinx37*
> 
> Would asus 770gtx 4gb version in 2x sli drive 3 X- Stars ok?


Almost any single GPU can drive 3 of these monitors, if your talking about gaming, then yes two of those are awesome thanks to the 8GB VRAM.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raistlinx37*
> 
> Would asus 770gtx 4gb version in 2x sli drive 3 X- Stars ok?


I don't think so.... Not at any good settings anyway.


----------



## Torethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Almost any single GPU can drive 3 of these monitors, if your talking about gaming, then yes two of those are awesome thanks to the 8GB VRAM.


VRAM isn't aggregated in SLI. 4 and 4 is 4, not 8.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

2x 770's really aren't all that strong for such a high resolution as 3x 2560x1440p monitors.

see here

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-770-gk104-review,3519-12.html

the 770 is essentially a 680, with 7680x1440 you are going to be getting like 20-30 fps in most games best case scenario. That is games that actually scale very well with SLI.

You really need like 3x 780/ti's or 3x 290/x's or 3x titans or something for that many monitors. Basically one high ends graphics card for each monitor would give a very good experience.


----------



## xartion

My X-Star has been sitting in Memphis, TN for almost 24 hours now. Hopefully I get it tomorrow (Memphis is only 450 miles from me)









I hope the monitor has no BLB or dead pixels


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torethyr*
> 
> VRAM isn't aggregated in SLI. 4 and 4 is 4, not 8.


uh really? That would make no sense lol


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> uh really? That would make no sense lol


it makes perfect sense but I don't feel like going in to an in depth explanation on how sli/xfire work (very similar) but you can certainly google all about it.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> it makes perfect sense but I don't feel like going in to an in depth explanation on how sli/xfire work (very similar) but you can certainly google all about it.


Well, then I don't understand why people want multi Titans for their 6GBs then....One would be good enough.


----------



## Torethyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Well, then I don't understand why people want multi Titans for their 6GBs then....One would be good enough.


For power along with the frame buffer. If you have a Titan then you probably have a multi monitor setup, that's all 6GB of VRAM is good for really. With 3 or more monitors and that much power you need the 6GB so SLI'ing 780s which have 3GB won't cut it.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torethyr*
> 
> For power. If you have a Titan then you probably have a multi monitor setup, that's all 6GB of VRAM is good for really. With 3 or more monitors and that much power you need the 6GB so SLI'ing 780s won't cut it.


that's true I didn't even remember the 780's only have 3gb of memory. Much better idea to tri-fire 290/x's then imo. Well once the prices come back down to MSRP that is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Well, then I don't understand why people want multi Titans for their 6GBs then....One would be good enough.


you really need to do some research







the reason people want multiple titans with 6gb is that if you use a say 4gb and 6gb card in SLI it will default to using 4gb of vram on each. You also need a lot of vram for high resolutions.


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Some of the things that I find most impressive in this monitor are the contrast, black levels, and color accuracy. I use Lagom.nl to do my monitor calibrations and this is the only monitor that I've used that I've been able to differentiate all of the black level and white saturation tests. Also, in the contrast test, after slight saturation and individual (R,G,B) color gamma tweaking, having every color bar at equal luminosity from top to bottom. The improvement in black levels alone is amazing. There are things I had thought were black previously (on things I've worked on) that turned out not being so once viewed with this monitor, revealing they were indeed a lighter shade. There's no going back for me. Even though they are a gamble, if I need more monitors in the future, these will be at the top of my list and also in my recommendation to others. The smoothness when overclocked is also just awesome... 60hz feels slow now, heh.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> What did you pay for that stand?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the stand from an Dell 2407wfp monitor I have. You can buy them on Ebay fro 12-40 dollars like this one:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-24-Computer-Monitor-Stand-/251405353657?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item3a88ed42b9
> 
> If you buy a stand just double check that the weight of the monitor the stand is made for if close to the Qnix. This will ensure the spring tension in the stand is close to correct so it wont bottom out.
> 
> I explained how to adapt the stock Dell stand to the VESA mount here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/11630#post_21452437
> 
> You can get the VESA plate from here:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/400628424577?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> If you add all of the above stand components up, it comes to $ 37.86 with shipping !!!
> 
> It works great !
Click to expand...

Thanks man appreciate it! +rep


----------



## raistlinx37

What are a few good triple monitor stands that would support the xstars. No clamp stands as I have a glass desk.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rodman*
> 
> I did that thanks fixed =). I went into CRU and put LCD Reduced and that fixed the problem. 120hz won't budge though. Pretty happy with 110


Try these timings:


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Ok guys about ready to pull the trigger on another GPU. Just been waiting and reading.. Im still concerned about a 780 ti's 3gb of ram and 386bit vs the 290x 4gb of ram and 512bit.. Im kinda thinking of the future here for the next year or 2... I really dont want to run out of ram if you know what i mean... Opinions are welcome.. I was on the amd side for quite some time. These 780ti classies look nice tho.. But will mantel destroy the advantage the 780ti has over the 290x's as of right now.. Sorry I know i been going on and on about this but im the type that always ends up thinking i made the wrong decision.. Well at least i dont think that way with my B E A Utiful qnix 27" inch im got infront of me right now.. I just want to be able to have super high fps and still crank up all the details and get close to 100fps in most games.. THATS WHAT I BOUGHT THE MONITOR FOR RIGHT!!!!!????

Anyways, I just want to have 1 gpu, no need for 2 really.....


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Ok guys about ready to pull the trigger on another GPU. Just been waiting and reading.. Im still concerned about a 780 ti's 3gb of ram and 386bit vs the 290x 4gb of ram and 512bit.. Im kinda thinking of the future here for the next year or 2... I really dont want to run out of ram if you know what i mean... Opinions are welcome.. I was on the amd side for quite some time. These 780ti classies look nice tho.. But will mantel destroy the advantage the 780ti has over the 290x's as of right now.. Sorry I know i been going on and on about this but im the type that always ends up thinking i made the wrong decision.. Well at least i dont think that way with my B E A Utiful qnix 27" inch im got infront of me right now.. I just want to be able to have super high fps and still crank up all the details and get close to 100fps in most games.. THATS WHAT I BOUGHT THE MONITOR FOR RIGHT!!!!!????
> 
> Anyways, I just want to have 1 gpu, no need for 2 really.....


the 290 is definitely a better buy at MSRP. The problem is getting it for MSRP right now


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> the 290 is definitely a better buy at MSRP. The problem is getting it for MSRP right now


Ya its a good buy, but I want to be happey and have the card that can give me the best fps for a single card.. As I said the classy will do that, but will mantel make me wish I would of waited, along with the extra gig of vid ram. ya know what i mean.. I could surly do 2 290x's but i dont want the hassle of xfire or sli.. just want the easy and everything of 1 card.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Ya its a good buy, but I want to be happey and have the card that can give me the best fps for a single card.. As I said the classy will do that, but will mantel make me wish I would of waited, along with the extra gig of vid ram. ya know what i mean.. I could surly do 2 290x's but i dont want the hassle of xfire or sli.. just want the easy and everything of 1 card.


if you are using 1 monitor 3/4gb of vram is a non issue. the 780ti is not a good bang/buck card at all compared to a 290. I'm very happy with my 290x but I only paid $500. my advise is wait a month or two till 290 is back at msrp and buy one. hope it unlocks to a 290x


----------



## Taint3dBulge

I had a 290x, Had to RMA it, did perform nice thought, that was before this new monitor i got... Also not going to wait another month, ill pay the extra to get it now... Iv been waiting about 2 years or more now for a video card... If i were to get a 290x it would be a dcii, or what i really want is a matrix or lightning, If i could wait it would be for a matrix..... But those are 2+ months away i take it..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raistlinx37*
> 
> Would asus 770gtx 4gb version in 2x sli drive 3 X- Stars ok?


I am a bit late to this topic but 770s in SLI would likely get destroyed by triple 1440p in many games. The 4GB would be good BUT honestly due to the lack of speed compared to a 780ti having 3GB vs 4GB would be mute. You may have slightly higher minimum FPS during VRAM bottleneck spots(per my post below). One thing is for sure, is that overclocking would be a bit pointless sense you would likely very rarely get over 60FPS. See my post below regarding 780ti research with 1440pX3

_________________________
The GTX780ti is the fastest GPU period right now but the problem isn't speed it is VRAM. With one 1440p monitor it is recommended to have 2GB+ of VRAM, having three you will need 6GB+ to support the pixel space and not get bottlenecked. Now that doesn't mean it won't work and work well in some situations, it just means certain games with huge texture sizes will get bottlenecked. One good example is Skyrim, i have a GTX780ti and when playing skyrim on my Qnix i have seen the VRAM get to about 2.4GB. Now that is with one screen so if you triple that you are going to be getting cut short with on;ly having 3GB total usable VRAM.

Now for testing purposes i have setup my crossover, Qnix and Dell(1440p) in surround to benchmark(and borrowed a second and third GTX780ti). Needless to say using one card got destroyed in many modern games, however older games like shadowrun, Dead space 1, tomb raider anv. all were within playable FPS(around and just over 30-45) with some mainly texture or VRAM intensive settings off(AA, object detail, texture detail).

With two cards many games like BF4, Skyrim, and crysis did get a good deal better in FPS but there was a catch. At all points in the game there was always parts were i would get a BIG drop in FPS, like turning a corner and getting view of a very large area with a lot of textures visible. I know this happens to a certain extent anyway but this was different and the change was excessive. Like in Skyrim when in a cave i could get as high as 80FPS but when leaving the cave and going into open space(or "skyrim") i would drop to 20-30FPS. Battlefields results and crysis(3) were very similar. Older games ran perfectly fine on two cards, i think the somewhat raided setup of the VRAM gave it just enough to handle older textures fast enough.

With three cards the FPS increased in older games again but it was a lot less predominant. Only gaining about 25-30% in overall frames. There was also several spots that the frame were less than with 2 cards. Newer games were even worse. The increase was apparent in certain parts of the games that were very confined(skyrim cave) but any open view areas were just about the same as having two cards. Areas that i dropped to 25FPS with two cards dropped to 28-30FPS with 3.

Now one thing that made a big difference in these bottleneck points was dropping any setting that was heavily reliant on VRAM. Like in Skyrim turning texture size all the way down and turning view distance all the way down made a huge difference being outdoors. Battlefield didn't get much better in most areas but there was a difference(i think BF4 is just buggy anyway). The most convincing evidence that this is a VRAM bottleneck is that these settings changes only effected the lowest FPS and not so much the average.

So bottom line triple monitoring these with two GTX780ti's would be potentially viable if your expecting to turn a few settings down(related to VRAM use) and get no better than 60FPS(which would make overclocking a little mute). Really in this situation it may be more viable for a Titan or if a 6GB variant of the GTX780ti(higher than 6GB would be best but options are limited). VRAM overclocks also seemed to help more than what i would usually expect(10FPS from a mere 100mhz). Lastly if you do run portrait surround with 1440p monitors i highly recommend debezeling due to the thick bezel size.
This may be unrelated but i run my GTX780ti at 1241mhz and run my Qnix at 144hz while gaming in first person shooters(120hz in everything else). So if the issue was with the Qnix shouldn't it be constant between cards? Or could this be an issue with the Qnix combined with AMD cards. I also ran the Qnix at at least 120hz with a GTX 460, 570(SLI), 760, 770(SLI), 780ti. I did notice a higher potential refresh overclock with single card solutions and noticed there was a slight trade off in overclock between the monitor and VRAM(meaning with certain VRAM overclocks would limit monitor overclocks but nothing related to the GPU clocks).
_____________________


----------



## raistlinx37

Would I be able to run 2 monitors with the sli asus 770 gtx 4gb


----------



## arsenal

Hey guys - quick question that I didn't see addressed in the FAQ by OP.

I have an early 2008 macbook pro with an 8600M GT and I'm curious to see if anyone thinks I will have issues running one of the basic Qnix/X-Star monitors.

Being an older MBP, it actually has dual DVI out so I don't see the actual connection being a problem at all. I do not intend to use this for gaming - I have no intention of OCing whatsoever. It will be strictly used for graphic design and coding. A lot of the ebay listings for these monitors say not to use them with macs or laptops which seems like a bit of a blanket statement to cover their ass from people that don't know the difference between a VGA port and a DVI port.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arsenal*
> 
> Hey guys - quick question that I didn't see addressed in the FAQ by OP.
> 
> I have an early 2008 macbook pro with an 8600M GT and I'm curious to see if anyone thinks I will have issues running one of the basic Qnix/X-Star monitors.
> 
> Being an older MBP, it actually has dual DVI out so I don't see the actual connection being a problem at all. I do not intend to use this for gaming - I have no intention of OCing whatsoever. It will be strictly used for graphic design and coding. A lot of the ebay listings for these monitors say not to use them with macs or laptops which seems like a bit of a blanket statement to cover their ass from people that don't know the difference between a VGA port and a DVI port.


Its says its Dual Link DVI so i dont see why it would not work. I was even able to run my Dell U2711 @ 1440p 50Hz via HDMI with Nvidia Custom Resolutions.


----------



## arsenal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Its says its Dual Link DVI so i dont see why it would not work. I was even able to run my Dell U2711 @ 1440p 50Hz via HDMI with Nvidia Custom Resolutions.


Appreciate that! Are you in Toronto, Canada or California?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arsenal*
> 
> Appreciate that! Are you in Toronto, Canada or California?


Canada.


----------



## arsenal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Canada.


Excellent. I'm in Waterloo. Any advice re: brokerage + duty on these monitors coming into Canada?


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

A Qnix 27" 1440p and a single 290 work fantastic together. You will play any game perfectly smooth with pretty much all details turned up just back off on the anti-aliasing, you really won't need as much if any.


----------



## walmartshopper

My x-star ended up with occasional artifacts at 120hz, so I used CRU and exported a custom edid with 60, 80, 96, and 115hz. Then I copied it to my Linux install and used the CustomEDID option. All four refresh rates are available and work perfectly in Linux. Exporting from CRU and using CustomEDID is much easier than messing around with modelines.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Is 96Hz noticeable? Also does overclocking have an effect in the life of the panel and circuitry?


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Is 96Hz noticeable? Also does overclocking have an effect in the life of the panel and circuitry?


I use 96hz, going from 60 is amazing...I have a third monitor that is stuck at 60, and it sucks beside 96hz.

And no one knows, but there has been no reports of dying monitors.


----------



## brucethemoose

If the circuitry doesn't hold up, I'll probably be the first to know, as I've had a Korean monitor longer than anyone and generally leave it on 24/7 at 115hz.

Aside from some weird issues at startup (which I believe are driver related), no problems so far.

Also, yes, 96hz is noticeably better. Just run some LCD blur tests and see for yourself.


----------



## Boochy

Hey everyone, I've been following another thread on here that talks about the Qnix 27'' Evolution II Monitor and after reading through the pages I'm extremely interested in purchasing it. I just had a few questions about the monitor itself.

1- I know it'll output 1440p but how well will this scale with movies? I believe I watch movies just as much as I game; Netflix, Amazon Instant Video, and I have in my shopping cart on Amazon a bluray internal drive to watch my blurays and dvds. Will I get the black border around my monitor so it'll be native to 1080p or will it get upscaled to 1440p? Will this apply to some pc games that will not be able to do 1440p?

2- I also have in my cart on Amazon a Nvidia GTX 780 ACX Cooler, so I've read I shouldn't have a problem maxing most games on 1440p correct? I'll probably add another 780 a year from now...lol

I was thinking about buying this from Amazon but it's at $349 and for a Pixel Perfect it's at $379. I've seen it cheaper on eBay. How is this seller?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6

Thanks again guys in advance!


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Is 96Hz noticeable? Also does overclocking have an effect in the life of the panel and circuitry?


I'd say, definitely. When you first switch to using a higher refresh rate, you will immediately feel the smoothness even within desktop with the mouse. It just seems to glide along the screen unlike before. Both 96 and 120 feel worlds better than 60, but I do prefer 120 over 96. Either way, both are a nice improvement in smoothness and response. Response tests can further prove it, but experiencing it first hand is probably the best.

In regards to how they last, I'm not certain. I haven't really read cases of them dying out, but I would s'pose it's possible that they can slowly deteriorate over time (as with most things when overclocked). I'm going to continue to run mine at 120hz unless I notice any issues, in which case I'd lower it to 96 and see how that fares.


----------



## lang15

Hi,

Another ++++ for the X-Star from Dream-seller. Ordered 12/25, received today, 12/30 in NYC. No dead pixels, got 100hz on the first try and works beautifully in games. Backlight bleeding is minimal, less then my last IPS screen. I get artifacts and green lines on 120hz, but no big deal from someone who's been gaming at 60hz.

Overall, highly recommended as long as it lasts. Very happy.


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boochy*
> 
> Hey everyone, I've been following another thread on here that talks about the Qnix 27'' Evolution II Monitor and after reading through the pages I'm extremely interested in purchasing it. I just had a few questions about the monitor itself.
> 
> 1- I know it'll output 1440p but how well will this scale with movies? I believe I watch movies just as much as I game; Netflix, Amazon Instant Video, and I have in my shopping cart on Amazon a bluray internal drive to watch my blurays and dvds. Will I get the black border around my monitor so it'll be native to 1080p or will it get upscaled to 1440p? Will this apply to some pc games that will not be able to do 1440p?
> 
> 2- I also have in my cart on Amazon a Nvidia GTX 780 ACX Cooler, so I've read I shouldn't have a problem maxing most games on 1440p correct? I'll probably add another 780 a year from now...lol
> 
> I was thinking about buying this from Amazon but it's at $349 and for a Pixel Perfect it's at $379. I've seen it cheaper on eBay. How is this seller?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> 
> Thanks again guys in advance!


That seller does sell a good amount of those. The list on the OP (first post) documents where members purchased theirs from.

I purchased mine from StoreWithStory (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/321237616203?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acb41064b)
I received mine quick and they have the best offer option. Shipping was super fast and the monitor is flawless... I don't know how much worth it has, but they state they include 1 year warranty and test them all before shipping (which I believe they actually do). Also, free shipping back to them if DOA. It took a few days for them to process order/test it, but once it was shipped, I received it the next day... Overnight shipping from Korea is pretty impressive.


----------



## caenlen

anyone got a color profile for a reading mode?
gaming is amazing, but reading anything burns my eyes on this monitor :/


----------



## Boochy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> That seller does sell a good amount of those. The list on the OP (first post) documents where members purchased theirs from.
> 
> I purchased mine from StoreWithStory (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/321237616203?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acb41064b)
> I received mine quick and they have the best offer option. Shipping was super fast and the monitor is flawless... I don't know how much worth it has, but they state they include 1 year warranty and test them all before shipping (which I believe they actually do). Also, free shipping back to them if DOA. It took a few days for them to process order/test it, but once it was shipped, I received it the next day... Overnight shipping from Korea is pretty impressive.


Ahh okay I picked the one I did, because it offered an outlet adapter for the US to use, unless StoreWithStory offers one as well? And did you purchase the Square Trade? I figured 1 year with the monitor itself is fine. And Drumz have you tried watching movies in regards to my first question? Thanks man


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boochy*
> 
> Hey everyone, I've been following another thread on here that talks about the Qnix 27'' Evolution II Monitor and after reading through the pages I'm extremely interested in purchasing it. I just had a few questions about the monitor itself.
> 
> 1- I know it'll output 1440p but how well will this scale with movies? I believe I watch movies just as much as I game; Netflix, Amazon Instant Video, and I have in my shopping cart on Amazon a bluray internal drive to watch my blurays and dvds. Will I get the black border around my monitor so it'll be native to 1080p or will it get upscaled to 1440p? Will this apply to some pc games that will not be able to do 1440p?
> 
> 2- I also have in my cart on Amazon a Nvidia GTX 780 ACX Cooler, so I've read I shouldn't have a problem maxing most games on 1440p correct? I'll probably add another 780 a year from now...lol
> 
> I was thinking about buying this from Amazon but it's at $349 and for a Pixel Perfect it's at $379. I've seen it cheaper on eBay. How is this seller?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> 
> Thanks again guys in advance!


Netflix and online videos scale to 1440p and do it very well, looks just as good as my 1080p TV. With MadVR, downloaded videos look slightly better than native 1080p IMHO, as MadVR does a fantastic job up-scaling and takes advantage of higher refresh rates by generating extra frames.

A GTX 780 is plenty. You'll find you don't need 4x MSAA, light SMAA is fine at 1440p.

I don't know about him now, but green-sum has been around since the beginning.


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boochy*
> 
> Ahh okay I picked the one I did, because it offered an outlet adapter for the US to use, unless StoreWithStory offers one as well? And did you purchase the Square Trade? I figured 1 year with the monitor itself is fine. And Drumz have you tried watching movies in regards to my first question? Thanks man


The one from StoreWithStory included a US power cable, no adapter necessary. Besides, all you need in the event it comes with Korea plug is an extra PC power supply cable to hook to the power brick of the AC adapter in place of the other one. It uses standard 3-pin cables same as the power supply.

I generally do not watch movies on my computer, but so long as you stick with a refresh rate that is similar (a multiple, divisible, etc) to that of the original movie (most commonly 24 fps), you should be good. This is why 96 and 120 are popular choices.

Sorry didn't see question about SquareTrade... No I did not, I saw that they included their own 1 year warranty and that was enough for me. SquareTrade is great for peace of mind for a few years if you want to spend the extra money.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Does anyone know if its possible to buy a better stand or some kind of wall-mount?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Does anyone know if its possible to buy a better stand or some kind of wall-mount?


Yes, you can use any 100mm VESA mount on these monitors.


----------



## Tiger S.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> anyone got a color profile for a reading mode?
> gaming is amazing, but reading anything burns my eyes on this monitor :/


I have been trying out a lot of different profiles, On this panel, the NEC PA271w_fullv4 seems to tone down the gamma and brightness enough to read without color fade. It really depends on what I am running, 120hz seems to lose some gamma for me so I go with a totally different icc.


----------



## Boochy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> The one from StoreWithStory included a US power cable, no adapter necessary. Besides, all you need in the event it comes with Korea plug is an extra PC power supply cable to hook to the power brick of the AC adapter in place of the other one. It uses standard 3-pin cables same as the power supply.
> 
> I generally do not watch movies on my computer, but so long as you stick with a refresh rate that is similar (a multiple, divisible, etc) to that of the original movie (most commonly 24 fps), you should be good. This is why 96 and 120 are popular choices.
> 
> Sorry didn't see question about SquareTrade... No I did not, I saw that they included their own 1 year warranty and that was enough for me. SquareTrade is great for peace of mind for a few years if you want to spend the extra money.


Thanks guys for all the help! Appreciate the fast replies I've gotten! Also Drum I went ahead and ordered the Qnix from the buyer you linked me; hoping no dead pixels and minor backlight bleed


----------



## fouBelieve

Hi sorry for the noob questions but if anyone can please help. I need to buy a cheap GPU to test my monitors, will these work with DVI-I?

1.
In the eBay graphics that they have, it has a X for DVI-I and says will only work with DVI-D.
Can anyone please confirm if it works with DVI-I or only DVI-D?

2.
It also says will not work with laptops. If I find a laptop with a dedicated GPU (eg. gt650m, or anything not integrated HD) will it work as well?

3.
If you use a VGA to DVI conversion adapter, will it still display properly?

4.
If I'm using dual monitors, one for gaming and one for web browsing beside it, should I overclock both to the same speeds?
Or should I just overclock the gaming one and leave the other one? Will this damage my GPU or monitor in any way being different HZ speeds?


----------



## taafe

At last ive just received my qnix DP2710 matte from assessorieswhole and its superb apart from the stand which im not to worried about as im gonna look into getting a new one. Theres zero dead pixels from what ive noticed up to now and blb is minimal although I use a youtube vid to test the black screen and dead pixels because when I went to page 1 on here I couldn't open the links from some reason but I will check tomorrow again. I did notice I got really low frames in cod on max settings even one nfs rivals which is capped at 30 fps it was unplayable so looks like im gonna need a new card. So until then there isnt any point in oc it because I dont have the raw power to do so. Anyone recommend a new game I can try at 1440p that will make me drool? Lol overall I am really pleased with the monitor and anybody looking into them should just bite the bullet because chances are you'll be happy and if not you can always return but for £213 + vat its as good as a high quality display once you get the mount sorted. Any questions please ask I'll upload some photos soon as and I cant wait to oc this thing


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lang15*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Another ++++ for the X-Star from Dream-seller. Ordered 12/25, received today, 12/30 in NYC. No dead pixels, got 100hz on the first try and works beautifully in games. Backlight bleeding is minimal, less then my last IPS screen. I get artifacts and green lines on 120hz, but no big deal from someone who's been gaming at 60hz.
> 
> Overall, highly recommended as long as it lasts. Very happy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You can definitely hit 120Hz solid with some minor adjustments. Try lowering your overall pixel to 2659 and lines to 1445 and see if that helps.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boochy*
> 
> Ahh okay I picked the one I did, because it offered an outlet adapter for the US to use, unless StoreWithStory offers one as well? And did you purchase the Square Trade? I figured 1 year with the monitor itself is fine. And Drumz have you tried watching movies in regards to my first question? Thanks man


Keep in mind if you have to use the pixel patcher, it will break bluray playback. If you are only using one video card, ignore that as you won't have to use the patch anyway.


----------



## decrescent

So ive run into a problem with my QNIX evo 2 D: So I was just browsing the web when all of the sudden my screen went very dim and has a faint flicker too it. Every other time you power on the monitor you can see it's proper brightness but it only lasts 1 seconds before going back to very dim. Is there a fix that can be done for this or a place that you can order parts from? I've had mine since about may and it overclocked to 120hz and stayed there about 50% of its life span.) No idea what to do, it makes me so sad that over a 300 dollar monitor just went very dark instead of some weirder problems that you'd just toss it away.


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decrescent*
> 
> So ive run into a problem with my QNIX evo 2 D: So I was just browsing the web when all of the sudden my screen went very dim and has a faint flicker too it. Every other time you power on the monitor you can see it's proper brightness but it only lasts 1 seconds before going back to very dim. Is there a fix that can be done for this or a place that you can order parts from? I've had mine since about may and it overclocked to 120hz and stayed there about 50% of its life span.) No idea what to do, it makes me so sad that over a 300 dollar monitor just went very dark instead of some weirder problems that you'd just toss it away.


Sometimes my Shimian gets grumpy and won't boot at 115hz, have you tried using the CRU reset? It should be in the program's folder.


----------



## Herr Terror

I ordered shorter M4 machine screws to replace the ones that came with the VESA mount I ordered from Monoprice. The problem is that the screws that came with the mount are stuck in the VESA holes, and keep turning counter-clockwise without coming out because the screw holes are loose inside the bezel.

I vaguely remember someone else having this problem but can't remember if they were able to pull the screws out without removing the bezel. Does anyone remember?


----------



## decrescent

I haven't tried a CRU reset mostly because I don't know how to go about doing that. What I tried to fix the dimming and flickering was taking off the 120hz over clock and putting it back to 59/60 and then testing it on another pc in the house. Same problem persisted so then I opened up the paneling and make sure all of the wires pushed in properly and nothing was loose. After that I put it back together and the same problem is still there and it makes me so sad. xD


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decrescent*
> 
> I haven't tried a CRU reset mostly because I don't know how to go about doing that. What I tried to fix the dimming and flickering was taking off the 120hz over clock and putting it back to 59/60 and then testing it on another pc in the house. Same problem persisted so then I opened up the paneling and make sure all of the wires pushed in properly and nothing was loose. After that I put it back together and the same problem is still there and it makes me so sad. xD


Try moving the Qnix to a different port on your computer, if that doesn't fix it then try starting windows with another screen and connect the Qnix AFTER getting to the desktop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> anyone got a color profile for a reading mode?
> gaming is amazing, but reading anything burns my eyes on this monitor :/


Try increasing gamma to make blacks more apparent, or you can always go into windows appearance and turn up the font sizes for all the windows text(stock is 9 point font try 11 or 12). Lastly try using "cleartype" text tool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Hi sorry for the noob questions but if anyone can please help. I need to buy a cheap GPU to test my monitors, will these work with DVI-I?
> 
> 1.
> In the eBay graphics that they have, it has a X for DVI-I and says will only work with DVI-D.
> Can anyone please confirm if it works with DVI-I or only DVI-D?
> 
> 2.
> It also says will not work with laptops. If I find a laptop with a dedicated GPU (eg. gt650m, or anything not integrated HD) will it work as well?
> 
> 3.
> If you use a VGA to DVI conversion adapter, will it still display properly?
> 
> 4.
> If I'm using dual monitors, one for gaming and one for web browsing beside it, should I overclock both to the same speeds?
> Or should I just overclock the gaming one and leave the other one? Will this damage my GPU or monitor in any way being different HZ speeds?


1. Most video cards have ports that can have DVI-I or DVI-D connected to them. Take a look at the connectors on your device and match it to the picture. You may find it will work with both.

2. It is possible that this would work but i would make sure that the dedicated graphics card still has the internal scaler built into it. The scaler is the part that is needed for picture, as long as your device has one you just need the right port.

3. NO VGA gets pretty crappy past 1080p, even if it did work somehow it would look terrible.

4.
A) You should overclock to your hearts extent. It may be beneficial to have the web browsing monitor at 96hz or lower to prevent image retention on top borders of the browser.
B) This is completely up to you, i would say do a lot of reading on the potential side effects, how to fix them and then make an informed decision.
C) Not at all, graphics cards are designed for these potential scenarios.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Is 96Hz noticeable? Also does overclocking have an effect in the life of the panel and circuitry?


This is going to be different from person to person but many studies have shown that ANY refresh a good deal over 60hz IS much smoother to the majority of individuals. I can tell the difference between 60hz and 75hz so 96hz is a lot smoother. 120hz makes 60hz look like a picture slide show.

There is no proof of overclocking effecting monitor life span but it stands to reason it might. This is going to be more about the electronics of the panel mainly the PCB. The Qnix PCB is rated for 450mhz so it stands to reason that any data rate being transferred under 450mhz should be fine. With that being said 96hz should have no life span effect at all. 120hz however could have an effect with stock timings since the pixel clock is around 500mhz. If you optimize your timings you can get this down to around 460mhz.

With only 10mhz over the rated ceiling it is very likely that it would still have no noticeable effect on life span. The difference would be somewhere in the ballpark of 27 years instead of 30 years(example only). So bottom line either stick with 96hz or optimize your timings if you are worried about your panel's longevity.


----------



## lang15

Quote:


> You can definitely hit 120Hz solid with some minor adjustments. Try lowering your overall pixel to 2659 and lines to 1445 and see if that helps.


Thanks, but I can't seem to get a stable 120hz. I've tried yours and multiple other settings from this thread and from 120hz.net. Anything above about 110hz gives lots of unstable green lines. I kept messing around and all of sudden I was just getting black screens in Windows even after restarting, so I had to reconnect my other monitor, reset and redo the 90 and 100hz settings. I was afraid of doing some kind of permanent damage. Maybe I'll try again after I digest all this more (I've never worked on OCing monitors before).


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lang15*
> 
> Thanks, but I can't seem to get a stable 120hz. I've tried yours and multiple other settings from this thread and from 120hz.net. Anything above about 110hz gives lots of unstable green lines. I kept messing around and all of sudden I was just getting black screens in Windows even after restarting, so I had to reconnect my other monitor, reset and redo the 90 and 100hz settings. I was afraid of doing some kind of permanent damage. Maybe I'll try again after I digest all this more (I've never worked on OCing monitors before).


You will not do damage. If you get stuck boot up with a different monitor and then reconnect the Qnix AFTER getting windows. This will always get you a picture back. After reading your posts it sounds like you might want to try a different cable, try another port on the gfx card and lastly try re-installing the drivers, patch(full), and then re-test. A improper driver install or weak cable can make a difference in OC ceiling.


----------



## Torethyr

Is a higher refresh rate noticeable *if* your framerate _isn't_ surpassing 60 FPS? I imagine that wouldn't really do anything in that case.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torethyr*
> 
> Is a higher refresh rate noticeable *if* your framerate _isn't_ surpassing 60 FPS? I imagine that wouldn't really do anything in that case.


You will likely not see a difference between [email protected] vs [email protected] *but* having a 96hz or 120hz refresh will cut down the overall blanking period thus lowering the response time which could give you slightly less motion blur.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> You will likely not see a difference between [email protected] vs [email protected] *but* having a 96hz or 120hz refresh will cut down the overall blanking period thus lowering the response time which could give you slightly less motion blur.


It's hard to say, I just went from playing at 96hz, to 60hz, and I think I could tell, but that might have also been the lower framerate due to going from single monitor 1440, to triple. Still, 96 or higher is very nice to have.


----------



## fouBelieve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 1. Most video cards have ports that can have DVI-I or DVI-D connected to them. Take a look at the connectors on your device and match it to the picture. You may find it will work with both.
> 
> 2. It is possible that this would work but i would make sure that the dedicated graphics card still has the internal scaler built into it. The scaler is the part that is needed for picture, as long as your device has one you just need the right port.
> 
> 3. NO VGA gets pretty crappy past 1080p, even if it did work somehow it would look terrible.
> 
> 4.
> A) You should overclock to your hearts extent. It may be beneficial to have the web browsing monitor at 96hz or lower to prevent image retention on top borders of the browser.
> B) This is completely up to you, i would say do a lot of reading on the potential side effects, how to fix them and then make an informed decision.
> C) Not at all, graphics cards are designed for these potential scenarios.


Thanks man champion +rep
1. Yeah I was thinking they would both work because DVI-I sends both digital and analog so it should still work where DVI-D is just digital.
2. I'll try find a laptop from someone I know hopefully it has a dedicated graphics card and it will work. Not sure how to switch on and off between the integrated and dedicated though.
3. I see.
4. I think I'll do both monitors to 96hz since I'll only be running 1x r9 290 non reference when it comes out.

Hopefully my clamp on mount is sturdy enough for these 2 screens!
Can't wait to get them running. Argh the wait for the GPU's (don't even know if they're worth it now due to being AU$600-$630 for non reference when the normal cards are $500 for the r9 290, that's $100+ more for a diff cooler!) I waited so long already and the price lol


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Thanks man champion +rep
> 1. Yeah I was thinking they would both work because DVI-I sends both digital and analog so it should still work where DVI-D is just digital.
> 2. I'll try find a laptop from someone I know hopefully it has a dedicated graphics card and it will work. Not sure how to switch on and off between the integrated and dedicated though.
> 3. I see.
> 4. I think I'll do both monitors to 96hz since I'll only be running 1x r9 290 non reference when it comes out.
> 
> Hopefully my clamp on mount is sturdy enough for these 2 screens!
> Can't wait to get them running. Argh the wait for the GPU's (don't even know if they're worth it now due to being AU$600-$630 for non reference when the normal cards are $500 for the r9 290, that's $100+ more for a diff cooler!) I waited so long already and the price lol


I wouldn't pay $100 more for a non ref version. Hell a waterblock only cost me $118 us and keeps my card silent + 45-50c


----------



## iCrap

i tried changing my refresh rate to like 110hz a while back and it made the colors and brigtness change.... anyone else experience this?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> i tried changing my refresh rate to like 110hz a while back and it made the colors and brigtness change.... anyone else experience this?


I think its side effect of overclocking.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I think its side effect of overclocking.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> i tried changing my refresh rate to like 110hz a while back and it made the colors and brigtness change.... anyone else experience this?


Any overclock of the refresh rate causes a gamma shift to occur. To compensate for this first optimize your pixel clock to reduce the overall shift and then use your drivers to increase the gamma curve. You can use this site for gauging the gamma and color accuracy(or buy a calibrator).

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/


----------



## xartion

Ordered an X-Star DP2710LED from dream-seller on late Thursday night, it arrived on Monday morning. 7200 miles in 4 days, incredibly impressed to say the least. I got the Matte non-pixel perfect version and it came with absolutely 0 dead pixels and no backlight bleed whatsoever. Ran at 120hz without any problems or artifacts, however I'm hesitant to run it at 120hz for day-to-day use, and I'm thinking I will only switch to 120hz right before loading a game and just run it at 60hz at all other times in order to preserve the life of the monitor. Removed the stand that came with it and mounted it with my other 5 monitors on a mount. Overall, very pleased with this purchase.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xartion*
> 
> Ordered an X-Star DP2710LED from dream-seller on late Thursday night, it arrived on Monday morning. 7200 miles in 4 days, incredibly impressed to say the least. I got the Matte non-pixel perfect version and it came with absolutely 0 dead pixels and no backlight bleed whatsoever. Ran at 120hz without any problems or artifacts, however I'm hesitant to run it at 120hz for day-to-day use, and I'm thinking I will only switch to 120hz right before loading a game and just run it at 60hz at all other times in order to preserve the life of the monitor. Removed the stand that came with it and mounted it with my other 5 monitors on a mount. Overall, very pleased with this purchase.


why limit yourself? Enjoy your monitor at its full potential. Overclock that sucker! People here have been running theirs at 120hz with zero issues. The PCB is rated at 450hz. Just lower your pixel clock close enough to 450. Most people including myself is around 461-459. At 120hz, my monitor was at 487 pixels. I can see that causing problems down the line.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> why limit yourself? Enjoy your monitor at its full potential. Overclock that sucker! People here have been running theirs at 120hz with zero issues. The PCB is rated at 450hz. Just lower your pixel clock close enough to 450. Most people including myself is around 461-459. At 120hz, my monitor was at 487 pixels. I can see that causing problems down the line.


I've been running mine at 120hz with 470mhz pixel clock, via Nvidia custom resolutions. I dont use the patcher or CRU anymore. I was able to get 120hz with CRU but was getting artifacts when switching profiles in precision or using GPUZ.

Ever since I started with Nvidia control panel Ive had zero issues. And I'm running at 470mhz. I set it at total pixels of 2675x1465 anything lower It wouldn't work in Nvidia. But Im still playing around with it. So if anyone has any other ideas/setting to lower clock please let me know. Or please chime in if you think 470 is too high, I can switch to 114hz which is about 446mhz. But 470mhz has been running for weeks with no probs.


----------



## chrizby2

Hey everyone,

I've been watching 27" korean monitors for a little while, and I think I'm going to get one of these puppies to compliment my Dell sp2309w.

There's a deal on Amazon right now for the Monoprice ZERO-G IPS monitor for $300.
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-IPS-ZERO-G-Slim-Monitor-2560x1440/dp/B00DIGC6GO/ref=sr_1_1?t=slickdeals&tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=vvTjcHJBEeO49epEe-4nkg0_cb2u3_0_0_0&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1388511069&sr=1-1&keywords=IPS-ZERO-G+27

My question to all of you is what to do?
Is buying from Amazon/Monoprice worth it for whatever warranty you could have, versus buying an xstar for $300 off ebay?


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys need some help can someone just explain this to me in a few easy steps.

I have a 780 so nvidia. If I use CRU do I still need to make a custom res in the nvidia control panel?

I have got 120hz to work by making a custom res in the nv control panel. But the pixel clock is 483 I want to reduce it but there are not as many options in the NV CP as there are in CRU

So I deleted custom res from NV CP. The only detailed resolution I have set in CRU is 2560x1440 @120hz. But it does not show up as an option in windows or NV CP.

What am I doing wrong. Should I always be running CRU as Admin?


----------



## lightsout

I think it worked, well I noticed it said reboot required. So I did and when I got to the desktop it was a black screen with a pink line down the side. Freaked me out. Rebooted to safe mode and reset CRU. I was using the timings posted a few pages back.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I think it worked, well I noticed it said reboot required. So I did and when I got to the desktop it was a black screen with a pink line down the side. Freaked me out. Rebooted to safe mode and reset CRU. I was using the timings posted a few pages back.


I hate CRU. Use nvcp instead, no reboots required lol.
Can your monitor do 2652 pixels 1445 lines?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I think it worked, well I noticed it said reboot required. So I did and when I got to the desktop it was a black screen with a pink line down the side. Freaked me out. Rebooted to safe mode and reset CRU. I was using the timings posted a few pages back.
> 
> 
> 
> I hate CRU. Use nvcp instead, no reboots required lol.
> Can your monitor do 2652 pixels 1445 lines?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hey hey that worked. As far as I can tell.

What I decided to do before I read your post was just run at 110. Pixel clock was below 450 at default. I had not tried a game but pretty sure it would look just as good. I can't keep a constant 120fps anyways.

Any idea what changing that setting does. I agree about CRU so much easier to use the NV cp.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I think it worked, well I noticed it said reboot required. So I did and when I got to the desktop it was a black screen with a pink line down the side. Freaked me out. Rebooted to safe mode and reset CRU. I was using the timings posted a few pages back.
> 
> 
> 
> I hate CRU. Use nvcp instead, no reboots required lol.
> Can your monitor do 2652 pixels 1445 lines?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey hey that worked. As far as I can tell.
> 
> What I decided to do before I read your post was just run at 110. Pixel clock was below 450 at default. I had not tried a game but pretty sure it would look just as good. I can't keep a constant 120fps anyways.
> 
> Any idea what changing that setting does. I agree about CRU so much easier to use the NV cp.
Click to expand...

With regards to your other post. You still have to create a custom resolution after rebooting with CRU.
Create a 120hz profile, set to manual and input 2652 total pixels and 1445 lines. Does it save with no problems?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I think it worked, well I noticed it said reboot required. So I did and when I got to the desktop it was a black screen with a pink line down the side. Freaked me out. Rebooted to safe mode and reset CRU. I was using the timings posted a few pages back.
> 
> 
> 
> I hate CRU. Use nvcp instead, no reboots required lol.
> Can your monitor do 2652 pixels 1445 lines?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey hey that worked. As far as I can tell.
> 
> What I decided to do before I read your post was just run at 110. Pixel clock was below 450 at default. I had not tried a game but pretty sure it would look just as good. I can't keep a constant 120fps anyways.
> 
> Any idea what changing that setting does. I agree about CRU so much easier to use the NV cp.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With regards to your other post. You still have to create a custom resolution after rebooting with CRU.
> Create a 120hz profile, set to manual and input 2652 total pixels and 1445 lines. Does it save with no problems?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yeah I ditched CRU, Did the reset thing and just did what you said in the NV control panel. Seems to be working fine. Sweet!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I think it worked, well I noticed it said reboot required. So I did and when I got to the desktop it was a black screen with a pink line down the side. Freaked me out. Rebooted to safe mode and reset CRU. I was using the timings posted a few pages back.
> 
> 
> 
> I hate CRU. Use nvcp instead, no reboots required lol.
> Can your monitor do 2652 pixels 1445 lines?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey hey that worked. As far as I can tell.
> 
> What I decided to do before I read your post was just run at 110. Pixel clock was below 450 at default. I had not tried a game but pretty sure it would look just as good. I can't keep a constant 120fps anyways.
> 
> Any idea what changing that setting does. I agree about CRU so much easier to use the NV cp.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With regards to your other post. You still have to create a custom resolution after rebooting with CRU.
> Create a 120hz profile, set to manual and input 2652 total pixels and 1445 lines. Does it save with no problems?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah I ditched CRU, Did the reset thing and just did what you said in the NV control panel. Seems to be working fine. Sweet!
Click to expand...

awesome! Those settings fixed my lines with that res at 461 clock. Cheers!

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## fanaticstv

I recently had to move my computer and during the move my Qnix screen cracked a little bit towards the bottom right corner, does anyone know if there is anything I can do about this?


----------



## Ovrclck

Anyone looking for a decent stand. There are a few left. I just bought one myself.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/360824154590?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fanaticstv*
> 
> I recently had to move my computer and during the move my Qnix screen cracked a little bit towards the bottom right corner, does anyone know if there is anything I can do about this?


Do you have the Tempered Glass version? If it's obvious i would probably remove the whole glass since it was just glued to the metal frame. If not, then i would leave it.


----------



## fanaticstv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Do you have the Tempered Glass version? If it's obvious i would probably remove the whole glass since it was just glued to the metal frame. If not, then i would leave it.


All I know is I have the anti glare one lol.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Anyone looking for a decent stand. There are a few left. I just bought one myself.
> 
> http://m.ebay.com/itm/360824154590?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


You think that would work for a 27"? I am holding out for a nice arm. Had one for my shimian and liked having the gap under it.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Anyone looking for a decent stand. There are a few left. I just bought one myself.
> 
> http://m.ebay.com/itm/360824154590?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> You think that would work for a 27"? I am holding out for a nice arm. Had one for my shimian and liked having the gap under it.
Click to expand...

I can't tell if it's vesa compatible though. Still waiting for a reply from the seller.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## xartion




----------



## lightsout

Thats a crazy setup you got there. And nice dog!


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torethyr*
> 
> For power along with the frame buffer. If you have a Titan then you probably have a multi monitor setup, that's all 6GB of VRAM is good for really. With 3 or more monitors and that much power you don'tget the 6GB so SLI'ing 780s which have 3GB won't cut it.


Probably coming in late with this but 780 ti definetly cut it for 3 monitor 1440p I run everything ultra with high refresh rates. I never hit my capon vram 3gb. Titan are great if you own one already or if you want to play skyrim with a lot of mods that would eat up vram.


----------



## TelFiRE

Agreed. The best GPU on the planet can certainly handle 3x1440. I think either people haven't benched it and they're deluding themselves into thinking that their 4th card was absolutely necessary for playing with multiple monitors, or they just severely overestimate the kind of card current games need to run, or they just think that 100% of the population here won't settle for less than max at 144FPS. Either way, high framerates might be unlikely, but it's certainly going to more than playable.

But, the problem when talking about these things, is the drastic, drastic variables involved, from what game you're playing, how demanding it is, how CPU/GPU reliant it is, how cool your card is (which we know has its own set of variables), and what your expectations are for games that come out in a few months or a year. It's dependent on what you play and your subjective framerate/quality expectations.

The immense level of immersion allowed by three monitors is just not replaceable with merely a higher framerate IMO. And when you get down to the benchmarks, VRAM is something you need to scale up with your GPU's capabilities. There's no point to having 18GB of VRAM on a GTX 550. In literally ALL situations, a 780 with 3 is going to outperform that, obviously. Likewise, the 6GB on the TITAN benefits it only in very rare case scenarios, in almost all real-world application, at least from the testing and benchmarks I have seen, the 780 TI outperforms.


----------



## Kman3107

Quick question hoping someone will answer before tomorrow









Is QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll still relative or can I find newer to around same price?
If so, which?

Thanks

EDIT: In case price is up and down I'm looking to spend $355 including shipping on the QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll.


----------



## lightsout

That's the one you want and you should be able to get it for about 300 shipped. Or get the xstar. Same exact thing just different name on the case. Whichever is cheaper.

As far as one 780ti with three of these screens that sounds crazy to me. A big part of these monitors for most is the high refresh rate. With one 780 I play on high with no msaa to try to stay around 100fps. Triple the resolution with only 20% more GPU power. I bet you'd be averaging 30fps or something like that. Which is not a very good experience.


----------



## SilentAssassins

Does anyone have experiences purchasing the monitors from Overclockmonitor.com? They currently have a coupon code going, making a QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ[Tempered Glass] around like $275.

http://www.overclockmonitor.com/daily-deals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-tg.html, apply coupon 7HAUCQ97EM5CNX0A to get $30 off.

Sounds like a pretty good deal to me. If u guys know anything about this website, please share your thought!


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> That's the one you want and you should be able to get it for about 300 shipped. Or get the xstar. Same exact thing just different name on the case. Whichever is cheaper.
> 
> As far as one 780ti with three of these screens that sounds crazy to me. A big part of these monitors for most is the high refresh rate. With one 780 I play on high with no msaa to try to stay around 100fps. Triple the resolution with only 20% more GPU power. I bet you'd be averaging 30fps or something like that. Which is not a very good experience.


Probably low 20s and vRAM bottleneck.


----------



## bmgjet

Lows dropping to 60s is the bear minimum for gaming IMO.
Dont see 1 780ti doing that on BF3/4 ultra 7680X1440


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilentAssassins*
> 
> Does anyone have experiences purchasing the monitors from Overclockmonitor.com? They currently have a coupon code going, making a QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ[Tempered Glass] around like $275.
> 
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/daily-deals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-tg.html, apply coupon 7HAUCQ97EM5CNX0A to get $30 off.
> 
> Sounds like a pretty good deal to me. If u guys know anything about this website, please share your thought!


just buy off of eBay that way you're fully protected. Monitors still ships from Korea either way.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## gamer2425

Im wondering if someone could help me im not sure if i should get one of these monitors or not. My biggest fear is it will come with bad back light and i dont feel conferrable taking apart a monitor do alot of these monitors all have alot of bleeding im very picky with it. Its ether this or just a 60hz ips or 144hz tn.


----------



## romboy

my monitor has been vary good little 2 no back light bleed and no dead pixels love it it looks amazing.


----------



## kimjor

Just got my monitor from Green-sum and so far im pretty impressed!

The build quality is perfectly fine for me. The stand, well yes it's not great, but actually seems to work fine for me - (Doesn't move when i type on the keyboard etc..)

0 dead pixels
Unfortunately some light bleed, but to be honest my 3 old 22" screens had worse, so I'm pretty used to it, and will most likely try some of the debezeling tips listed here.

The colors look amazing, much more vibrant than the old tft screens, not sure I can live with the 2x22" on the sides for long


----------



## kimjor

n/t delete


----------



## rickx190111

Got my Qnix, little backlight bleed nothing major, I get green particles at 120hz which guess are artifacts when running a demanding game/benchmark, works fine at 96hz though, well pleased.


----------



## driedupfish

Are there any negative effects to overclocking the monitor? How does overclocking affect things like input lag, response time, latency&#8230;etc?

And also, why the number 96hz? I know that there are 120 and 144 hz monitors, but 96hz?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> Are there any negative effects to overclocking the monitor? How does overclocking affect things like input lag, response time, latency&#8230;etc?
> 
> And also, why the number 96hz? I know that there are 120 and 144 hz monitors, but 96hz?


1. Yes(read through the thread for details mainly the OP)
2. It can reduce these timings for smoother motion(again read any 60hz vs 120hz thread as this is no different just because it is an overclock)
3. 96hz is a multiple of 24 thus reducing judder in normal video playback(read any site about video rendering or pulldown effect)


----------



## Face2Face

I got mine a couple weeks ago. I can run 120Hz with LCD reduced settings with the DVI cable that comes with it. I usually leave it at 96Hz all of the time, because I can't really tell a difference between 96Hz and 120Hz.. but 60hz to 96hz is noticeable. Two dead pixels, I found them when I was looking for them, and have never seen them again.


----------



## Ovrclck

@lightsout Or if anyone is interested in replacing your current wobbly stand. This is what I dug up. What be nice if OP was updated to include these stands.

Here are some old posts with regards to those Compaq/HP stands. They do work








http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/4510#post_20444017
Quote:


> gateway stand
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gateway-Adjustable-LCD-Stand-with-4-USB-20-Ports-NEW-/120857358937
> 
> hp stand. remove the funky hp thing on it and it becomes a vesa monitor stand for any vesa compatible monitor.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HP-Extended-Height-ZR22w-Monitor-Stand-LV980AA-/200944863774?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2ec93f4a1e


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/6710#post_20770369
Quote:


> You can try looking for the HP ZR24/27/30 stands as they should be similar, if not the same but longer. There's also the HP ZR2240w (LED version of the ZR22w).
> 
> Source: I use 2x ZR22w's + 1x ZR2240w.


Currently on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171206057120?lpid=82
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA961AA-NEW-ORIGINAL-HP-ZR22w-21-5-LCD-Column-Monitor-Base-Stand-583847-001-/360824154590?_trksid=p2054897.l4276 <- I bought this one, I'll post pictures post install.

If I ever go multi mon. I think these stands will work just fine.


----------



## DarK_MischieF

Ordered a *matte X-Star* from dream-seller for $300. I originally set out to get the tempered glass version to match my Crossover 27Q but decided to switch after reading many reviews praising the anti-glare (AG) coating on the X-Star / QNIX.

About 10 minutes later I received a reply from dream-seller regarding their stock. I have posted it in its entirety in case anyone is curious:

_Hello, Thank you so much for your purchase.

We received monitor in stock today and was doing quality check and the quality is not good at all. I want to provide the best service along with best product to our buyers and decided to turn around the monitors that are not good enough to ship out. We are to get restocked next week around Tuesday.
I understand that this might be very long wait for you and I sincerely apologize.
I hope this is wait is okay with you.
Please let me know how to further assist you. I am willing to fully refund you also if you insist.
Thank you for reading my message.
Hope you enjoy your New years







_

I told dream-seller to do whatever he/she/they felt fit. Will update as the situation develops.


----------



## rickx190111

I have noticed the highest overclock I can get is 92HZ, any higher and I get these small green lines, they get more noticeable as I increase the overclock of the monitor, anyone got any tips on how I can get rid of these green lines? Getting up to 96hz would be nice, I have tried using the cru and evga pixel clock but the small green lines are still there, they randomly appear at different parts of games, could trying another cable help?


----------



## andom

So I just got my monitor from the mail, and I'm quite happy about it (no dead pixels); however, if I turn the screen completely black and I look at the right side, there are a few "light lines" that show up. Does anyone know how to get rid of this? I mean, I guess it's only annoying if I'm looking in the dark, but it's fairly noticeable.


----------



## aufkrawall

I've removed the tempered glass of my Qnix, there was a matte panel behind.
Now I have a little gap between bezel and panel, it's a little loose. Luckily, backlight bleeding hasn't gotten worse.
I think I will leave it this way. When I keep pressure on the slight blb, it doesn't get any better, so I guess tapefix mod would be useless.


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> So I just got my monitor from the mail, and I'm quite happy about it (no dead pixels); however, if I turn the screen completely black and I look at the right side, there are a few "light lines" that show up. Does anyone know how to get rid of this? I mean, I guess it's only annoying if I'm looking in the dark, but it's fairly noticeable.


2 of my 3 screens have this and as far as I am aware there is no fix. It is very likely the reason your panel was not made into a apple display is because of those lines. Just enjoy your screen as is because honestly in normal use you don't ever even notice it.


----------



## andom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> 2 of my 3 screens have this and as far as I am aware there is no fix. It is very likely the reason your panel was not made into a apple display is because of those lines. Just enjoy your screen as is because honestly in normal use you don't ever even notice it.


Thanks.

Unfortunately, I do notice it whenever I watch a movie and there is a dark scene; however, for gaming, I'm paying attention to other things. Regardless, it's probably not worth returning considering the backlight bleeding is minimal and there are no dead pixels.


----------



## causese1990

How annoying are dead pixels?
Ordered my X-Star some days ago.


----------



## wilflare

not sure whether to grab this or not...
wonder if a single 280X can support gaming at this resolution...


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wilflare*
> 
> not sure whether to grab this or not...
> wonder if a single 280X can support gaming at this resolution...


Should be able to do around 60fps on ultra bf3/4.
When mantle comes out and if its good then higher refresh rate might be more worth while.

Other wise youd have to run high quality settings.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> How annoying are dead pixels?
> Ordered my X-Star some days ago.


I dont think much since the pixels are very small.


----------



## IMI4tth3w

Just wanted give a huge thanks to all the guys here at OCN for all the fantastic information.

So i purchased a 27" 1440p x-star monitor from dream seller a couple weeks ago and its been fantastic.

Been doing some testing with trying some overclocking speeds as well as color profiles.

Color profile of choice is the Asus PB278Q.

As for overclocking, 120Hz is stable, but i do get some green line artifacting from time to time. For me, 96Hz is just fine. Besides, my gtx 760 on most games is doing 40-80fps.

My new build is featuring a gtx 780 ti and i will be doing some water cooling on it so i'll see if i can get it more stable at 120Hz once that's all put together.

also worth noting is not a single dead pixel to be found.

Not sure how to add myself to that list yall have, but here's my part

IMI4tth3w : X-Star DP2710 : Matte : Dreamseller : 96 : 299 : Zero Issues


----------



## paulkon

Can anyone confirm that the color/daylight temperature and gamma start to drift to warmer and higher, respectively, within a week from what the monitor was calibrated to at > 60 Hz?


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamer2425*
> 
> Im wondering if someone could help me im not sure if i should get one of these monitors or not. My biggest fear is it will come with bad back light and i dont feel conferrable taking apart a monitor do alot of these monitors all have alot of bleeding im very picky with it. Its ether this or just a 60hz ips or 144hz tn.


Yes, a lot of these have blb. In fact almost all of them I believe. The severity is what varies. To be honest, blb is something that can happen even with more expensive monitors, and it's only noticeable at all when you're on a totally black screen. I have a fair amount of it but don't notice it at all in gaming, even in dark areas.


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys I know I have seen this posted but too lazy to search









My 780 runs at full clocks/voltage, sometimes downclocks to 800 mhz while at 120hz. Would like it to drop to 324mhz as it runs about 10c cooler. Anyway to achieve this at 120hz?


----------



## bmgjet

If there is a bios editor for it you can change the clock profiles.
The cards dont downclock since they dont go below the threshold for low power to idle.
With my 7970 I was able to edit the bios so lower power mode has same clocks as idle mode.

So the 4 profiles are as follows on it.

idle 375mhz
low 375mhz (use to be 500mhz)
high 1000mhz
turbo 1050mhz


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> That's the one you want and you should be able to get it for about 300 shipped. Or get the xstar. Same exact thing just different name on the case. Whichever is cheaper.
> 
> As far as one 780ti with three of these screens that sounds crazy to me. A big part of these monitors for most is the high refresh rate. With one 780 I play on high with no msaa to try to stay around 100fps. Triple the resolution with only 20% more GPU power. I bet you'd be averaging 30fps or something like that. Which is not a very good experience.


I disagree, the main reason to get this monitor for me is the 1440 resolution, by no means the refresh rate. That's just a bonus. Different people have different goals, and for FPS you want high FPS. But if you like adventure games, mmos, etc the immersion gained from surrounding yourself with the game world can't be matched by extra frames per second or a few minor effects turned down. Besides, you don't need AA at this resolution.


----------



## Reptar

Can you debezel the X-Star the same way as the QNIX?


----------



## Hellr4zr

Hi all!

Just got to open a QNIX from AccesoriesWhole on eBay that I received last week as I was waiting for my new GTX 780 to arrive.

GREAT NEWS! I purchased the regular non pixel perfect version, and it has 0 bad pixels on it! No noticeable backlight bleed either.

I'm going to test OCing it to 96hz later on.

Thank you to everyone that contributed to this thread, this has been an awesome purchase.


----------



## horna212

Im considering purchasing this monitor. New Matte 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor DVI-D Do any of you know if its a single or multi input?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

That is a single input.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> That's the one you want and you should be able to get it for about 300 shipped. Or get the xstar. Same exact thing just different name on the case. Whichever is cheaper.
> 
> As far as one 780ti with three of these screens that sounds crazy to me. A big part of these monitors for most is the high refresh rate. With one 780 I play on high with no msaa to try to stay around 100fps. Triple the resolution with only 20% more GPU power. I bet you'd be averaging 30fps or something like that. Which is not a very good experience.
> 
> 
> 
> I disagree, the main reason to get this monitor for me is the 1440 resolution, by no means the refresh rate. That's just a bonus. Different people have different goals, and for FPS you want high FPS. But if you like adventure games, mmos, etc the immersion gained from surrounding yourself with the game world can't be matched by extra frames per second or a few minor effects turned down. Besides, you don't need AA at this resolution.
Click to expand...

I said a big part is the refresh rate. The resolution being the main reason. There are other Korean monitors out there but there are so popular because they overclock.

I understand not all games need high refresh rate. But regardless of the screens if your struggling to even avg 30fps in any game imo thats not a very fun experience.And I agree with your comment about AA thats why I said I don't use it.


----------



## driedupfish

Is there any difference when playing at 60 fps @ 60hz vs 60fps at 96hz? I overclocked my X-star to 96hz but most of the modern games I am playing simply can't take full advantage of the 96hz. For example at 96hz, Tomb Raider varies from 80ish fps to ~65 fps, so there are noticeable stuttering as compare to just capping the framerate at 60fps, which feels smoother because the framerate does not vary too much and is a consistent 60fps.

However, at 96hz, shooting games are more smooth.

I am just deciding whether I should stick with 96hz or revert back to 60hz. Are there any negatives at higher refresh rate with these Korean PLS panels? Like increased response time or input lag or whatever?

X-star (1440p)

GTX 780

i5-3570k


----------



## PCM2

[see http://www.overclock.net/t/1456145/60fps-60hz-vs-60fps-96hz-or-120hz-differences]


----------



## driedupfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCM2*
> 
> [see http://www.overclock.net/t/1456145/60fps-60hz-vs-60fps-96hz-or-120hz-differences]


Thanks, I read somewhere that increased refresh rates on these monitors also increases response time.


----------



## Nurffe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilentAssassins*
> 
> Does anyone have experiences purchasing the monitors from Overclockmonitor.com? They currently have a coupon code going, making a QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ[Tempered Glass] around like $275.
> 
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/daily-deals/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-tg.html, apply coupon 7HAUCQ97EM5CNX0A to get $30 off.
> 
> Sounds like a pretty good deal to me. If u guys know anything about this website, please share your thought!


Reliable store. Already got one from them and waiting second to be delivered at the moment


----------



## conzilla

Just got mine from dreamseller today. And all i can say is wow. No dead pixels and no backlight bleed that i can see. Great investment.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conzilla*
> 
> Just got mine from dreamseller today. And all i can say is wow. No dead pixels and no backlight bleed that i can see. Great investment.


----------



## conzilla

One quick question though. I just tried to load bf4 and got a black screen. Anyone else have this issue. Reinstalling now to see if that helps.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulkon*
> 
> Can anyone confirm that the color/daylight temperature and gamma start to drift to warmer and higher, respectively, within a week from what the monitor was calibrated to at > 60 Hz?


I have not seen any gamma drift on mine at 60hz or 120hz. I do believe there is a warm up period but have not directly tested for it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey guys I know I have seen this posted but too lazy to search
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 780 runs at full clocks/voltage, sometimes downclocks to 800 mhz while at 120hz. Would like it to drop to 324mhz as it runs about 10c cooler. Anyway to achieve this at 120hz?


Not likely, you are simply using that much GPU to present the screen to keep the power state above P0. This is the same as multi monitor setups that have so much data to present the GPU stays in P1 or P2.

I was able to get mine to stay in P0 at 96hz but even moving the mouse cursor would put it into P1. Overall that extra 6-10 degrees idle temp is no big deal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> If there is a bios editor for it you can change the clock profiles.
> The cards dont downclock since they dont go below the threshold for low power to idle.
> With my 7970 I was able to edit the bios so lower power mode has same clocks as idle mode.
> 
> So the 4 profiles are as follows on it.
> 
> idle 375mhz
> low 375mhz (use to be 500mhz)
> high 1000mhz
> turbo 1050mhz


This could work and i might even try it but i would advise anyone who tries it make sure you know what you are doing. There is not much worse than a bricked GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reptar*
> 
> Can you debezel the X-Star the same way as the QNIX?


Considering they are the same monitor and that is not only posted in the OP, it has been repeated over and over and over...........


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conzilla*
> 
> One quick question though. I just tried to load bf4 and got a black screen. Anyone else have this issue. Reinstalling now to see if that helps.


Game is probably set to use a res that the screen doesnt support.
Get the bf4 settings editor and change them before loading the game.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> Is there any difference when playing at 60 fps @ 60hz vs 60fps at 96hz? I overclocked my X-star to 96hz but most of the modern games I am playing simply can't take full advantage of the 96hz. For example at 96hz, Tomb Raider varies from 80ish fps to ~65 fps, so there are noticeable stuttering as compare to just capping the framerate at 60fps, which feels smoother because the framerate does not vary too much and is a consistent 60fps.
> 
> However, at 96hz, shooting games are more smooth.
> 
> I am just deciding whether I should stick with 96hz or revert back to 60hz. Are there any negatives at higher refresh rate with these Korean PLS panels? Like increased response time or input lag or whatever?
> 
> X-star (1440p)
> 
> GTX 780
> 
> i5-3570k


Having a higher refresh rate can decrease the overall response of the screen due to the decrease in lag time. This can give you a bit better motion response from your input(mouse/keyboard) to the screen and may give slightly less motion blur. The one downfall is that if you are only getting 60FPS you will get tearing. If you run vsync to compensate for this then the vsync filter will negate any positive response effects.

Bottom line if you don't use vsync than you might like the advantages. If you do use vsync then you might want to just set it to 60hz. Either way 96hz will be nice on the desktop and surfing.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I said a big part is the refresh rate. The resolution being the main reason. There are other Korean monitors out there but there are so popular because they overclock.
> 
> I understand not all games need high refresh rate. But regardless of the screens if your struggling to even avg 30fps in any game imo thats not a very fun experience.And I agree with your comment about AA thats why I said I don't use it.


I don't use AA on any of my games except BF4 I use 4x only reason I use it there is it increases my fps. Guess it stresses my gpus enough. I don't use BF4 as a reference point cause with 2 780Ti overclocked I struggle to stay above 120 fps and if I lower the quality I actually get worse performance but both mygpus in game are at 98 percent usage and my 4930k is ay 4.6 and I jump from 180 fps to 95 fps sometimes.


----------



## bmgjet

You probably have the reversed quality settings bug then.
Its a bug where low = low, medium = ultra, high = high and ultra = medium.

Take a few screen shots at the different settings and youll find out.
Effects a small amount of people.
But the terrain decoration setting medium = ultra effects most people.

It all got messed up with the first patch when they disabled the dynamic physics. Which effects the grass/water/explosions/tress ect.


----------



## conzilla

Quote:


> Game is probably set to use a res that the screen doesnt support.
> Get the bf4 settings editor and change them before loading the game.


Didnt think about it but ya that was more than likley it. Ill check it out later. Thanks +rep


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> You probably have the reversed quality settings bug then.
> Its a bug where low = low, medium = ultra, high = high and ultra = medium.
> 
> Take a few screen shots at the different settings and youll find out.
> Effects a small amount of people.
> But the terrain decoration setting medium = ultra effects most people.
> 
> It all got messed up with the first patch when they disabled the dynamic physics. Which effects the grass/water/explosions/tress ect.


That might be why it recommends medium settings then because there is no reason my ti's should not be on ultra


----------



## andom

Not the best picture, but these are the lines I was previously talking about. It's not so bad during normal use, but I guess I can live with it. A little bit unfortunate, though


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> That might be why it recommends medium settings then because there is no reason my ti's should not be on ultra


Id say there is a high chance that you have that bug then.
Mine recommends medium as well with 2X 7970 ghz.

Medium also looks the best in screen shots. Bushes and shadows are thicker, draw distance is the furtherest.
High looks slightly worse with lighter shadows and bushes can be seen though.
Ultra looks same as high but draw distance is halved.
Low looks very obviously low with draw distance halved again from ultra, bushes completely see though, shadows only on a few things and people can be seen behind boxes in op locker until you get close enough for the box to be rendered.


----------



## Torethyr

Just received my monitor today. Virtually flawless. A smidge of BLB along the top edge just left of center, that's it. No bad pixels.

Big thank-you to this thread for pointing me in the right direction. Now to try my hand at overclocking.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> You probably have the reversed quality settings bug then.
> Its a bug where low = low, medium = ultra, high = high and ultra = medium.
> 
> Take a few screen shots at the different settings and youll find out.
> Effects a small amount of people.
> But the terrain decoration setting medium = ultra effects most people.
> 
> It all got messed up with the first patch when they disabled the dynamic physics. Which effects the grass/water/explosions/tress ect.


I will let you be the judge one is medium and one is ultra.

*MEDIUM*


*ULTRA*


----------



## bmgjet

Since they are slightly different angled images its hard to tell.
But the one titled ultra the shadows look better. Rest looks the same.
Go on a map with longer view to see the difference in draw distance.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Not the best picture, but these are the lines I was previously talking about. It's not so bad during normal use, but I guess I can live with it. A little bit unfortunate, though


Thats pretty bad. Have you tried to fix it?


----------



## andom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Thats pretty bad. Have you tried to fix it?


I'm not exactly sure how to.

I've jacked the brightness settings to sort of mask it, but doing that ruins both my eyes and the colour.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> I'm not exactly sure how to.
> 
> I've jacked the brightness settings to sort of mask it, but doing that ruins both my eyes and the colour.


I think the cause is the metal frame around the lcd pressing too hard. You have to lift it up a bit.


----------



## andom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> I think the cause is the metal frame around the lcd pressing too hard. You have to lift it up a bit.


Can you tell me on how exactly to do that? I've never opened up a monitor before.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Since they are slightly different angled images its hard to tell.
> But the one titled ultra the shadows look better. Rest looks the same.
> Go on a map with longer view to see the difference in draw distance.


So I tried it and my Ultra is actually Ultra. I just can't figure out why I cannot maintain 120 FPS in that one game I know they have issues but these cards should be man handling that game at 1440p and 120 hz


----------



## dezerteagle323

help please! noob question:

Just got my x-star 2710 which has dual link DVI-D. My 7970 has dual-link DVI-I.

So the cable that came with the monitor is dual DVI-D, and it doesn't work. Is there any cable/adapter that can hook the monitor up to this card? Thanks!


----------



## dezerteagle323

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezerteagle323*
> 
> help please! noob question:
> 
> Just got my x-star 2710 which has dual link DVI-D. My 7970 has dual-link DVI-I.
> 
> So the cable that came with the monitor is dual DVI-D, and it doesn't work. Is there any cable/adapter that can hook the monitor up to this card? Thanks!


wow, nevermind... looks like the DVI-D cable that came with the monitor was the problem or defective... tried another dual DVI-D cable and it works


----------



## techsam2k8

Another help post, could not find a problem similar to mine from searching this thread. I just got the x-star today and the screen itself is awesome. However, the problem lies with the lower right corner, the buttons. First of all, the light in the lower right does not come on. Secondly, the five buttons on the bottom do not work either no matter how hard I press them. Is there any solution besides returning it (Bought it from dream-seller)? Thank you.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Can you tell me on how exactly to do that? I've never opened up a monitor before.


Check this out:


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> So I tried it and my Ultra is actually Ultra. I just can't figure out why I cannot maintain 120 FPS in that one game I know they have issues but these cards should be man handling that game at 1440p and 120 hz


2X 7970s?
What CPU.

My 2 on my 8350 can only maintain around 120fps on op locker and 105fps on the other maps.
Thats with
5ghz on cpu
1050mhz on gpus.

It takes 1280mhz on the gpus to be able to maintain over 120fps on all maps but then I get the directX hung error during map changes. Even tho every other game and stress test works fine at 1310mhz with 1325mhz being the point of becoming unstable.

The cable that came with my screen only works in the top DVI port. The 2nd DVI port it doesnt work but my other spare cables do work in 2nd port. Just it wont overclock past 75hz on anything but the cable that came with it. I just play on 100hz tho since I could notice any difference between 100 and 120hz other then the colour getting washed out and losing brightness.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> 2X 7970s?
> What CPU.
> 
> My 2 on my 8350 can only maintain around 120fps on op locker and 105fps on the other maps.
> Thats with
> 5ghz on cpu
> 1050mhz on gpus.
> 
> It takes 1280mhz on the gpus to be able to maintain over 120fps on all maps but then I get the directX hung error during map changes. Even tho every other game and stress test works fine at 1310mhz with 1325mhz being the point of becoming unstable.
> 
> The cable that came with my screen only works in the top DVI port. The 2nd DVI port it doesnt work but my other spare cables do work in 2nd port. Just it wont overclock past 75hz on anything but the cable that came with it. I just play on 100hz tho since I could notice any difference between 100 and 120hz other then the colour getting washed out and losing brightness.


I am running 2 EVGA GTX 780 Ti at 1239 core and a Intel 4930K @ 4.6 Ghz and Corsair Dominator GT ram at 2400 cas 10


----------



## lightsout

I have 120hz and 110hz showing up in windows as an option. BUt BF4 only shows 120hz. If I have it on 110hz only 59hz shows up in BF4. Would I need to use CRU for 110 to show up?


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I am running 2 EVGA GTX 780 Ti at 1239 core and a Intel 4930K @ 4.6 Ghz and Corsair Dominator GT ram at 2400 cas 10


Yeah would expect that to do 120fps on every map fine.
Just have to put it down to Frostbite 2.5 still being very un-optimised.

Only thing I can suggest it to run the frame time graph and see if something is playing up.

Can remember the command exactly but once you start typing it in the console it gives you the options.

press ~ to go into the console.
perfoverlay.drawgraph 1

or something like that.

If your getting spikes in the CPU then it could be something along the lines of a core or 2 going into low power state, Or the CPU isnt being fed fast enough from the ram.
GPU spikes can be error correction kicking in. (Or just a demanding frame in the game)
But atleast it will point you in the direction of the slow down.


----------



## Doug-E-Square

Hey everyone! So I thought I would just drop in and say that I have received my Qnix 27" today! Coincidently I have just gotten back from my trip so it was perfect timing. I was surprised at how fast I got it, I had placed the order on Monday! After setting it up, I have no issues with the monitor whatsoever, absolutely love it. Sits perfectly on my desk and doesn't wobble at all unless I try to wobble it myself. Ran some tests and I have zero dead pixels and I have very little backlight bleeding, barely even noticeable.

I'm currently installing Battlefield 4 so I can fire it up and see how well it will look. I'm running a single GTX 780 if anyone is curious. My only question is calibration. I tried searching for some 1440p content to view online and only found some nature demo on YouTube. I've read that you can preload a profile? Not too sure how that works...lol


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug-E-Square*
> 
> Hey everyone! So I thought I would just drop in and say that I have received my Qnix 27" today! Coincidently I have just gotten back from my trip so it was perfect timing. I was surprised at how fast I got it, I had placed the order on Monday! After setting it up, I have no issues with the monitor whatsoever, absolutely love it. Sits perfectly on my desk and doesn't wobble at all unless I try to wobble it myself. Ran some tests and I have zero dead pixels and I have very little backlight bleeding, barely even noticeable.
> 
> I'm currently installing Battlefield 4 so I can fire it up and see how well it will look. I'm running a single GTX 780 if anyone is curious. My only question is calibration. I tried searching for some 1440p content to view online and only found some nature demo on YouTube. I've read that you can preload a profile? Not too sure how that works...lol


You can calibrate your monitor with this site http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

The profiles are on the OP and can be found in the thread by searching "profile". The profiles may or may not completely fit your screen since every monitor is different(a calibrator or manual calibration is going to be better). You can apply profiles using "color management" in the control panel. You can install the profiles by right clicking on them and clicking install.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I have 120hz and 110hz showing up in windows as an option. BUt BF4 only shows 120hz. If I have it on 110hz only 59hz shows up in BF4. Would I need to use CRU for 110 to show up?


You can potentially add a custom refresh in the config file for BF4. BF4 like many games have pre-set resolution and refresh profiles that determine what you can just apply in game. This is an issue with the game and CRU will not help. Unfortunately most games are like this and will not let you set any resolution you want(like setting it to something odd like 67, 42, 110hz generally isn't going to just fly). The config file tweak might work but it would likely be better to go to a BF4 thread and get more detailed help there(if it doesn't work).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *techsam2k8*
> 
> Another help post, could not find a problem similar to mine from searching this thread. I just got the x-star today and the screen itself is awesome. However, the problem lies with the lower right corner, the buttons. First of all, the light in the lower right does not come on. Secondly, the five buttons on the bottom do not work either no matter how hard I press them. Is there any solution besides returning it (Bought it from dream-seller)? Thank you.


You can open up the panel and see if the control module still has both cable connectors connected and see if all the soldiering is still intact. I have removed my controller and honestly the small connectors came off VERY easy. It may just have come unplugged or the soldiering broke.

Otherwise i would return it since your stuck with the current brightness(unless it isn't too bad, really the buttons do nothing except brightness + on/off which doesn't matter as it turns on and off with the PC)


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Doug-E-Square*
> 
> Hey everyone! So I thought I would just drop in and say that I have received my Qnix 27" today! Coincidently I have just gotten back from my trip so it was perfect timing. I was surprised at how fast I got it, I had placed the order on Monday! After setting it up, I have no issues with the monitor whatsoever, absolutely love it. Sits perfectly on my desk and doesn't wobble at all unless I try to wobble it myself. Ran some tests and I have zero dead pixels and I have very little backlight bleeding, barely even noticeable.
> 
> I'm currently installing Battlefield 4 so I can fire it up and see how well it will look. I'm running a single GTX 780 if anyone is curious. My only question is calibration. I tried searching for some 1440p content to view online and only found some nature demo on YouTube. I've read that you can preload a profile? Not too sure how that works...lol
> 
> 
> 
> You can calibrate your monitor with this site http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
> 
> The profiles are on the OP and can be found in the thread by searching "profile". The profiles may or may not completely fit your screen since every monitor is different(a calibrator or manual calibration is going to be better). You can apply profiles using "color management" in the control panel. You can install the profiles by right clicking on them and clicking install.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I have 120hz and 110hz showing up in windows as an option. BUt BF4 only shows 120hz. If I have it on 110hz only 59hz shows up in BF4. Would I need to use CRU for 110 to show up?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can potentially add a custom refresh in the config file for BF4. BF4 like many games have pre-set resolution and refresh profiles that determine what you can just apply in game. This is an issue with the game and CRU will not help. Unfortunately most games are like this and will not let you set any resolution you want(like setting it to something odd like 67, 42, 110hz generally isn't going to just fly). The config file tweak might work but it would likely be better to go to a BF4 thread and get more detailed help there(if it doesn't work).
Click to expand...

Oh cool thanks didn't know that . I will just stick with 120 for now.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Yeah would expect that to do 120fps on every map fine.
> Just have to put it down to Frostbite 2.5 still being very un-optimised.
> 
> Only thing I can suggest it to run the frame time graph and see if something is playing up.
> 
> Can remember the command exactly but once you start typing it in the console it gives you the options.
> 
> press ~ to go into the console.
> perfoverlay.drawgraph 1
> 
> or something like that.
> 
> If your getting spikes in the CPU then it could be something along the lines of a core or 2 going into low power state, Or the CPU isnt being fed fast enough from the ram.
> GPU spikes can be error correction kicking in. (Or just a demanding frame in the game)
> But atleast it will point you in the direction of the slow down.


Yea I did the perfoverlay.drawgraph true the other day both stay pretty level no spikes or dips. The gpu will raise sometimes level out then drop back down some like gpu isn't being fully used sometimes.


----------



## the9quad

two cards will not run 120 fps solid on ultra @1440p. 120 fps average + sure, but you will have lots of dips below 120 fps.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

^^^ He speakuh da truth


----------



## itsZiz

My Qnix is on its way but i need HELP please with how to overclock it...

Ive read you need:

- a pixel patch to update nvidia drivers to allow higher pixel clock
- CRU program
- if you do it through the nvidia control panel its only faster hz in windows but NOT in games
- if you have a 700 series nvidia card or higher you CAN use the nvidia control panel with out all the other stuff...

Whats the real deal! Ive been searching for hours with no concrete answers.

edit* the OP says to still download CRU but a reply said they could just use nvidia control panel for custom resolution and it was available in bf4.. STILL CONFUSEED







Also - How would I know for sure in game if it was working... once we figure out the right way to do it?

Thank you for any help, I'm so excited to try 96-120hz !

ps. if you can please rep, I need 25 to make a post to sell my Sparta 300. thx


----------



## TelFiRE

Just get CRU and copy the default profile and make a new one with 96-120 hz, reboot and you should see that resolution available to games.

The pixel patch is for older cards, and Nvidia Control Panel is for Windows only, even on 7xx cards as far as I'm aware.

I haven't messed with the color profiles yet.


----------



## lightsout

I just made the 120hz profile in the nvidia control panel and I have the option for it in bf4 with a 7xx card. Haven't messed with any color profiles.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> two cards will not run 120 fps solid on ultra @1440p. 120 fps average + sure, but you will have lots of dips below 120 fps.


But like he said its going to be optimization too. One780ti runs its a steady 85 - 90 fps two I know is not going to be amazing but it should still accomplish 120 fps. Evary other game can max out and accomplish 120 fps easily. BF4 in all actuality though should have been delayed on the launch date due to bugs and issues. At best its beta stage.


----------



## DiceAir

So I can do 96Hz and it's been fine for about 3-4 months. I tried 110hz but get a small buzzing sound when switching it on. other than that no buzz sound etc etc. should I stick to 96Hz or try to go 110Hz as I'm running 2x R9-280x and I can almost maintain 110fps in BF4


----------



## Hellr4zr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So I can do 96Hz and it's been fine for about 3-4 months. I tried 110hz but get a small buzzing sound when switching it on. other than that no buzz sound etc etc. should I stick to 96Hz or try to go 110Hz as I'm running 2x R9-280x and I can almost maintain 110fps in BF4


Have you tried with a different DVI-D cable other than the one included with the monitor? I've read that a lot of people have fixed OC issues by purchasing a decent cable


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellr4zr*
> 
> Have you tried with a different DVI-D cable other than the one included with the monitor? I've read that a lot of people have fixed OC issues by purchasing a decent cable


I only get the buzz sound from monitor when I switch it on


----------



## Jetlitheone

Damn, whats up with gpu power at 50% when overclocking to 120hz?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Damn, whats up with gpu power at 50% when overclocking to 120hz?


Well there are two sides to this VERY repetitive topic.

First, the timings that are set when optimizing the pixel clock do not fit into the power stages of your GPU which generally makes the power state stay at a less than idle rate. this generally doesn't allow the memory of the gfx card to fully idle or downclock. [This is something that can be fixed with using regular timings or adding enough optical blacks to fit the power state, not something that is really worth slaving over especially for an extra 10 watts and 5 degrees GPU temp]

Second, the resolution and refresh is literally too high for the idle power state "P0" to even be reached, The P0 power state is generally a very low frequency(around 200-400mhz) with the Qnix at [email protected] you have more active pixels per second than many multi monitor solutions with just a single monitor. If you add a second or third monitor to that then you have pushed just your desktop presentation to a mid level rendering event thus requiring a higher GPU speed than P0 can provide. I have 3 monitors connected and if i disconnect both my secondary monitors the GPU will downclock further.

Bottom line is that the GPU sitting at P1 instead of P0 is not going to hurt anything. You will have slightly higher idle temps and use a few more watts per second.

More pixels per unit time = more processing per unit time = more heat/power


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> But like he said its going to be optimization too. One780ti runs its a steady 85 - 90 fps two I know is not going to be amazing but it should still accomplish 120 fps. Evary other game can max out and accomplish 120 fps easily. BF4 in all actuality though should have been delayed on the launch date due to bugs and issues. At best its beta stage.


http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/11/07/nvidia-gtx-780-ti-3gb-review/5
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_780_ti_review,23.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-780-ti-review-benchmarks,3663-5.html

every review has the ti doing almost 50 fps average BF4 ultra 1440p (4xmsaa) , which is another reason I am skeptical of people claiming 120fps *solid* at ultra settings with 2 cards at 1440p. If you got *100% scaling* and turned down msaa to 2x you could do 120fps average at stock speeds with two cards.

that's based on guru3d bench with 2msaa

2xMSAA with all graphics quality settings set at Ultra:2560x1440=64 fps average


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> that ti must really be overclocked:
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/11/07/nvidia-gtx-780-ti-3gb-review/5
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_780_ti_review,23.html
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-780-ti-review-benchmarks,3663-5.html
> 
> every review has it doing right around 50 fps average BF4 ultra 1440p.


I get way more then at with 290X with 0AA. There is no need for AA in BF4.


----------



## Spartan F8

There is just way too much BF4 talk in this thread lately. There are plenty of benchmarks around the net that you can search for just like the9quad just did. Also many of the actual issues that have been asked here have had nothing to do with monitor and all to do with the games poor programming(which is so bad there are lawsuits starting up over it) which can be taken to the mountain of BF4 threads.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There is just way too much BF4 talk in this thread lately. There are plenty of benchmarks around the net that you can search for just like the9quad just did. Also many of the actual issues that have been asked here have had nothing to do with monitor and all to do with the games poor programming(which is so bad there are lawsuits starting up over it) which can be taken to the mountain of BF4 threads.


I thought it was applicable because if your building a system to push the monitor than you kind of need to know what is going to push it. And since everyone wants 120hz/120fps and bf4 is currently one of the more demanding games, it makes sense to talk about how it does at this monitors res and frequency.

or we can talk about the pixel perfect policy, black light bleed, etc.. for the millionth time.









j/k man


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> or we can talk about the pixel perfect policy, black light bleed, etc.. for the millionth time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k man










I'll take BF4,

as long as we don't start jacking the thread.


----------



## andom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Check this out:


Oh man, I opened it up to loosen the side screws, but I'm so scared to disconnect he cables and actually take the panel out.


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Oh man, I opened it up to loosen the side screws, but I'm so scared to disconnect he cables and actually take the panel out.


no guts, no glory

DO IT!!!


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/11/07/nvidia-gtx-780-ti-3gb-review/5
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_780_ti_review,23.html
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-780-ti-review-benchmarks,3663-5.html
> 
> every review has the ti doing almost 50 fps average BF4 ultra 1440p (4xmsaa) , which is another reason I am skeptical of people claiming 120fps *solid* at ultra settings with 2 cards at 1440p. If you got *100% scaling* and turned down msaa to 2x you could do 120fps average at stock speeds with two cards.
> 
> that's based on guru3d bench with 2msaa
> 
> 2xMSAA with all graphics quality settings set at Ultra:2560x1440=64 fps average


I see what your saying and all the reviews is one card at stock. My one card at stock OC to 1250 something core clock averages about 85-90 FPS . With that said 2 cards should be able to accomplish 120 fps. It can do over 120 fps but problem is it dips down to 90 fps and when it does it does it for a couple seconds and shoots back up and when it does that the graph shows gpus dropping a hair level out then raise back up a hair. Also I get worse frame rate it I don't max out aa or things to make it actually work the gpus. There is something going on with sli utilization on both crossfire and sli. There are forums for it in battlelog etc.

I do see what you are saying though and yes at stock clocks thats about what I got but with sky bios and a extra 300 mhz clock on core it does boost it quite a bit.

Also I am running 100 percent scaling and 2x msaa can't do 120 fps if I increase scaling to 115 the frame rates actually improve if I go below 100 the fps actually get worse. Same with msaa.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I see what your saying and all the reviews is one card at stock. My one card at stock OC to 1250 something core clock averages about 85-90 FPS . With that said 2 cards should be able to accomplish 120 fps. It can do over 120 fps but problem is it dips down to 90 fps and when it does it does it for a couple seconds and shoots back up and when it does that the graph shows gpus dropping a hair level out then raise back up a hair. Also I get worse frame rate it I don't max out aa or things to make it actually work the gpus. There is something going on with sli utilization on both crossfire and sli. There are forums for it in battlelog etc.
> 
> I do see what you are saying though and yes at stock clocks thats about what I got but with sky bios and a extra 300 mhz clock on core it does boost it quite a bit.
> 
> Also I am running 100 percent scaling and 2x msaa can't do 120 fps if I increase scaling to 115 the frame rates actually improve if I go below 100 the fps actually get worse. Same with msaa.


Every review is done in single player which is more GPU demanding then multiplayer since it still has all the new frostbite features where multiplayer it got disabled after first patch.
The latest patch on the 20th also gave some massive boosts to multi card setups.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Every review is done in single player which is more GPU demanding then multiplayer since it still has all the new frostbite features where multiplayer it got disabled after first patch.
> The latest patch on the 20th also gave some massive boosts to multi card setups.


It did increase it but it still does not like to stay even within a small window fo fps drops. I am talking about the fps drops are 40-50 FPS drops at time sometimes a little more. I am just going to play on medium I guess that way I can stay above 120 FPS.

Since everyone is tired of talking about BF4 I will drop it I was just trying to get everyone elses input and see where everyone else stands. I am not dropping another $700 one another Ti as I am holding out till March or sometime around there when Maxwell comes out. With all the hackers in BF4 lobbys I keep getting into I am about over it anyways.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> But like he said its going to be optimization too. One780ti runs its a steady 85 - 90 fps two I know is not going to be amazing but it should still accomplish 120 fps. Evary other game can max out and accomplish 120 fps easily. BF4 in all actuality though should have been delayed on the launch date due to bugs and issues. At best its beta stage.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/11/07/nvidia-gtx-780-ti-3gb-review/5
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_780_ti_review,23.html
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-780-ti-review-benchmarks,3663-5.html
> 
> every review has the ti doing almost 50 fps average BF4 ultra 1440p (4xmsaa) , which is another reason I am skeptical of people claiming 120fps *solid* at ultra settings with 2 cards at 1440p. If you got *100% scaling* and turned down msaa to 2x you could do 120fps average at stock speeds with two cards.
> 
> that's based on guru3d bench with 2msaa
> 
> 2xMSAA with all graphics quality settings set at Ultra:2560x1440=64 fps average
Click to expand...

I don't see the point of AA. I run on High (can't see a difference from ultra) and avg around 100fps with a normal 780. Heres some fraps numbers just because.

2013-12-27 18:55:55 - bf4
Frames: 2161 - Time: 19018ms - Avg: 113.629 - Min: 98 - Max: 131

2013-12-27 18:56:26 - bf4
Frames: 2817 - Time: 23461ms - Avg: 120.072 - Min: 99 - Max: 135

2013-12-27 18:57:03 - bf4
Frames: 2067 - Time: 17152ms - Avg: 120.511 - Min: 105 - Max: 129

2013-12-27 18:57:35 - bf4
Frames: 3112 - Time: 28992ms - Avg: 107.340 - Min: 94 - Max: 119


----------



## brucethemoose

Ya, light SMAA is all you really need.


----------



## the9quad

You know your right, these latest patches with my limiter off seem to make me hit borderline avg of 200fps. I might need your guys help adjusting CRU so I can move up to 120hz. Right now it works but the screen will get sparkly in spots once in a while.


----------



## jadenx2

so a buddy of mine got a Qnix and is trying to plug in/install it atm but is having issues.

he's tried using it with his brothers PC and his as well and the monitor seems busted. either no signal, or weird colored lines. just not working at all. he's tried both the DVI cable that came with it and a monoprice cable.

is this monitor DOA or is there still hope?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> so a buddy of mine got a Qnix and is trying to plug in/install it atm but is having issues.
> 
> he's tried using it with his brothers PC and his as well and the monitor seems busted. either no signal, or weird colored lines. just not working at all. he's tried both the DVI cable that came with it and a monoprice cable.
> 
> is this monitor DOA or is there still hope?


Primary or secondary? Also does the PC detect the monitor? Anything showing up in the gfx card drivers? GPU scaling on?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> so a buddy of mine got a Qnix and is trying to plug in/install it atm but is having issues.
> 
> he's tried using it with his brothers PC and his as well and the monitor seems busted. either no signal, or weird colored lines. just not working at all. he's tried both the DVI cable that came with it and a monoprice cable.
> 
> is this monitor DOA or is there still hope?


What is he plugging it into? They won't work with igpu, and most laptops. Needs a graphics card.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jadenx2*
> 
> so a buddy of mine got a Qnix and is trying to plug in/install it atm but is having issues.
> 
> he's tried using it with his brothers PC and his as well and the monitor seems busted. either no signal, or weird colored lines. just not working at all. he's tried both the DVI cable that came with it and a monoprice cable.
> 
> is this monitor DOA or is there still hope?


Like lightsout said they don't work with igpu or most laptops. Also they do not work in a DVI-I or DVI gpu out put they will on work in a gpu with DVI-D out put so make sure your gpu has a DVI-D


----------



## RAIDo

Decided to get a Qnix monitor (Matte) from BigClothCraft: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130874118193?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

And I have to say it's absolutely amazing, the picture quality is great, no dead pixels, small amounts of backlight bleed and only had to pay £18 on tax, had to pick it up from the dell warehouse in heathrow though, had nothing better to do today, ordered on the 31st and tried to deliver on the 5th but no body came so they sent it back to the warehouse.

The only thing is that the stand is pretty bad and it is maybe a little too big for me which is more problem my end.

Here are some pictures:
Box is packed well in foam


Came with DL-DVI, and adapter, power cable and audio jacks, also a manual but it's in Korean.


Monitor is polystyrene


The backlight bleed, the camera on my phone completely throws it out, it's not recognizable even in dark conditions.


Haven't attempted to overclock yet, will try in a couple of minutes!


----------



## Kman3107

I just bought mine yesterday from StorewithStory and can't wait to get it. I love watching your "stories" about the monitor as I wait patiently for my own.


----------



## RAIDo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> I just bought mine yesterday from StorewithStory and can't wait to get it. I love watching your "stories" about the monitor as I wait patiently for my own.


Agreed, I have had this thread up for weeks just looking through it.


----------



## doctakedooty

@the9quad I flashed back my factory bios to my TI and for some reason I am able to increase settings in BF4 slightly and stay above 120 FPS. I know its weird.


----------



## RAIDo

Just oced to 96hz with no problems


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> @the9quad I flashed back my factory bios to my TI and for some reason I am able to increase settings in BF4 slightly and stay above 120 FPS. I know its weird.


Yeah I posted again, with mine uncapped I'm 200 fps locked the patches have done something.


----------



## Torethyr

3 days in, this may be the best $300 I've spent in the last year. I clocked to 120hz with no trouble, no artifacting at all in any game. My only complaint is that dialing in colors after OC is a bit hard even with other people's color profiles.


----------



## shiftt

hey all I think I going get an x-star but not sure it will work with my msi 280x it only has dual dvi-i. would it work with that or is it just dvi-d thanks for the help


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiftt*
> 
> hey all I think I going get an x-star but not sure it will work with my msi 280x it only has dual dvi-i. would it work with that or is it just dvi-d thanks for the help


I am certain it will wrok fine with the full R9 lineup.


----------



## shiftt

ah thanks for the reply ill be buying one soon then looking forward to it


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiftt*
> 
> ah thanks for the reply ill be buying one soon then looking forward to it


Dual DVI-I means its has both Analog and Digital signals. DVI-D is Digital only like the one i R9 290/X, DVI-A is Analog only.


----------



## 6steven9

Anyone @ 120hz using the nvcp care to tell me their numbers in the manual option unless you just straight put 120hz and it worked i'm stuck @ 96hz i got close to perfect 120hz but i got 1 green line flashing on the top if i do auto 120 hz i get a bunch of green lines all over the place so i'm assuming i can get 120 w/ the right settings and pixel clock??


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *6steven9*
> 
> Anyone @ 120hz using the nvcp care to tell me their numbers in the manual option unless you just straight put 120hz and it worked i'm stuck @ 96hz i got close to perfect 120hz but i got 1 green line flashing on the top if i do auto 120 hz i get a bunch of green lines all over the place so i'm assuming i can get 120 w/ the right settings and pixel clock??


Works for me.


----------



## maka12

Warning For people buying from UK

Just bought second monitor from dream seller paid same price as last one 211pound monitor came perfect like last one,
but 2 days later received invoice from fed ex charged me 88.13 so i rang them up to complain they tell me there clamping down on electric goods from korea and they are checking boxs and are making sure correct taxs are paid.etc
they also told me the fed ex handling charge is going to go up. lol
my last monitor i paid around 40 pound charges
the uk is a total rip off don't think i am going to buy another one, even if seller says the value is under 135 they are checking somehow to see what u paid.
maka


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maka12*
> 
> Warning For people buying from UK
> 
> Just bought second monitor from dream seller paid same price as last one 211pound monitor came perfect like last one,
> but 2 days later received invoice from fed ex charged me 88.13 so i rang them up to complain they tell me there clamping down on electric goods from korea and they are checking boxs and are making sure correct taxs are paid.etc
> they also told me the fed ex handling charge is going to go up. lol
> my last monitor i paid around 40 pound charges
> the uk is a total rip off don't think i am going to buy another one, even if seller says the value is under 135 they are checking somehow to see what u paid.
> maka


Nvm I read this wrong.

Sorry about the taxes but at least you have a functional government.


----------



## Nostras

Ok, I got some graphics cards which don't support Dual-Link DVI. I'd really want to buy a Korean panel because of two simple reasons.
Cheap.
Overclockable.

Monitors which support the connection my card has ( DP ) don't have the latter. The former is often no longer true as well.

Now, instead of selling my cards ( I really don't want to sell them ) I've decided to pick up an active adapter.
I can get one for €60 including shipping.

Can someone confirm active adapters also support +60 Hz?


----------



## causese1990

I just received my monitor.
The frame was not properly attached. there's a gap between frame and monitor. (my finger almost fits in)

should i return it? or fix it myself? (but i'll lose warranty then, or?)

1 dead pixel but it doesn't bother me that much
no blb (thank god)

i will provide screenshots and more info later


----------



## digitalforce

Just sold my original Yamakasi which was GORGEOUS and perfect but would only overclock to 65hz. Just ordered a Qnix from bigclothcraft. Hoping to get at least 96hz!

Anywho, what's up with the glossy Qnix's being so expensive? I couldn't even find a real good deal in USD (USA)


----------



## causese1990

Is anyone running one of those monitors @120hz all day? Just wondering if anyone ran into issues using them 24/7


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> Is anyone running one of those monitors @120hz all day? Just wondering if anyone ran into issues using them 24/7


No issues as of yet.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## causese1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> No issues as of yet.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


now i know what i was missing my whole life. 120Hz is awesome!!!!

there definitely is a difference. tested with skyrim.

when it says valid but stutters sometimes, it's still alright ,or? (stutter during the frame test thingy)

edit: do i actually get charged for additional fees after receipt or before? since i haven't paid any fees yet besides the monitor


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Ok, I got some graphics cards which don't support Dual-Link DVI. I'd really want to buy a Korean panel because of two simple reasons.
> Cheap.
> Overclockable.
> 
> Monitors which support the connection my card has ( DP ) don't have the latter. The former is often no longer true as well.
> 
> Now, instead of selling my cards ( I really don't want to sell them ) I've decided to pick up an active adapter.
> I can get one for €60 including shipping.
> 
> Can someone confirm active adapters also support +60 Hz?


I'm not too sure about the active adapters... I may suggest you to buy a cheap GPU to have it worked and buy a decent GPU later for smooth gaming... Or buy a decent GPU straight ahead because as far as i know it will have a hard time to drive a 1440p monitor to play a smooth game with at high or very high settings.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> now i know what i was missing my whole life. 120Hz is awesome!!!!
> 
> there definitely is a difference. tested with skyrim.
> 
> when it says valid but stutters sometimes, it's still alright ,or? (stutter during the frame test thingy)
> 
> edit: do i actually get charged for additional fees after receipt or before? since i haven't paid any fees yet besides the monitor


Try changing the total pixels to 2652 and total lines to 1445. Does it stutter now? With regards to fees, US residents does not get charged VAT or any type of fees.


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I'm not too sure about the active adapters... I may suggest you to buy a cheap GPU to have it worked and buy a decent GPU later for smooth gaming... Or buy a decent GPU straight ahead because as far as i know it will have a hard time to drive a 1440p monitor to play a smooth game with at high or very high settings.


I doubt a 7970 crossfire can't handle 1440P at very high.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Oops, sorry i didn't noticed your sig... Well, you can sell it and still get a good price and get another one with Dual DVI.


----------



## rickx190111

I tried a new DVI cable gold plated I'm still getting these green pixels when ever I overclock to 120 or 96hz, they are like green pixels that display on a static image and some of them flash, anyone got any ideas?


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Oops, sorry i didn't noticed your sig... Well, you can sell it and still get a good price and get another one with Dual DVI.


Is the active converter that bad?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

It's like hit or miss unless somebody had used and verified it here and it must be the same model/product.


----------



## rickx190111

These are the little green pixels I am getting, anyone got any ideas? I tried LCD Reduced but that didn't solve the issue, click on the image to look closely.


----------



## decrescent

So I was going to send my monitor back to korea because it went very very dim to the point you can barely see it. Green-sum told me I had to pay round shipping cost but they would fix it for free. $221 dollars to Korea alone. Must say im a bit sad that i just have to buy a new one when my current one was so dang good.


----------



## lightsout

$220 wow. That's the bad part about getting these from Korea. Always wondered what sipping would cost. Sorry to hear that.


----------



## Tjorhunter

Ordered the x-star 3 days ago and the payment cleared on the day, but it still hasn't been dispatched. I bought from dream-seller on the Ebay Uk site. Should I contact him to see what's going on? Because it honestly should of shipped by now.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decrescent*
> 
> So I was going to send my monitor back to korea because it went very very dim to the point you can barely see it. Green-sum told me I had to pay round shipping cost but they would fix it for free. $221 dollars to Korea alone. Must say im a bit sad that i just have to buy a new one when my current one was so dang good.


Any reason you didn't buy a square trade warranty? $50 3 years


----------



## lightsout

Sounds like you bought it on Friday and it sat over the weekend. Which is normal. But if you feel like contracting him go for it. You have the right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjorhunter*
> 
> Ordered the x-star 3 days ago and the payment cleared on the day, but it still hasn't been dispatched. I bought from dream-seller on the Ebay Uk site. Should I contact him to see what's going on? Because it honestly should of shipped by now.


----------



## decrescent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Any reason you didn't buy a square trade warranty? $50 3 years


Just never been one of those people that buys warranties. Honestly that first that that has ever broken/died on me that id consider fixing other than those horrible xbox 360s XD.


----------



## causese1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Try changing the total pixels to 2652 and total lines to 1445. Does it stutter now? With regards to fees, US residents does not get charged VAT or any type of fees.


lines value has a red color when i do that and i can't hit "Ok"
is it important to fix browser stutter?


----------



## RAIDo

My monitor was working fine yesterday then I tried to do a RAID array and it failed so I lost all my data and had to reinstall windows.

Now on my qnix everything seems really small and zoomed out, I have no idea how to fix this, any help will be appreciated, thanks.


----------



## xartion

Has anyone figured out how to get MP4 files to play in Windows Media Player after patching the AMD drivers using the atikmdag-patcher? I have tried multiple codec packs (Shark007, K-Lite, Media Player Codec Pack, etc.) With the proper codecs/hardware acceleration configuration, I can get every other file type to play in Windows Media Player, but for .mp4 files I just have a black screen where the video should be. Solution for now is to use Media Player Classic or VLC just for .mp4 files, but I have used Windows Media Player for video playback for over 10 years and really don't feel like having 2 different media players just for different file types.

Any feedback is appreciated


----------



## Loktar Ogar

@RAIDo, Try uninstall video driver and re-install? Adjust screen resolution to native?


----------



## Pawkins

Does anyone know if the 1600 res ones overclock as well as the 1440?


----------



## RAIDo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> @RAIDo, Try uninstall video driver and re-install? Adjust screen resolution to native?


I have tried that and it is on native, it worked before, why doesn't it work now?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

If you are using NVIDIA control panel, maybe try to create a new custom resolution for the native resolution at 60Hz or other Hz or try using CRU? I have no idea left...


----------



## RAIDo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> If you are using NVIDIA control panel, maybe try to create a new custom resolution for the native resolution at 60Hz or other Hz or try using CRU? I'm have no idea left...


Tried that, thanks for trying any way


----------



## the9quad

So you have that 120hz monitor sitting at 1440p, tired of playing games? Want to watch some videos, how about doing it at 120fps:

Credit goes to the wonderful forum member airisom2 , who created this guide they did a nice job walking you through setting you up with the smooth video project.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1385468/svp-smooth-video-project-discussion-thread

I have smooth motion interpolation on my LED tv, but it's @ 1080p. Seeing it on a 1440p monitor a foot or so from your face is awesome.

I really suggest you gents/ladies take the time to set this up and watch a blu-ray movie or two. and if you find you love it like I do, please throw him some rep, he deserves it.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> So you have that 120hz monitor sitting at 1440p, tired of playing games? Want to watch some videos, how about doing it at 120fps:
> 
> Credit goes to the wonderful forum member airisom2 , who created this guide they did a nice job walking you through setting you up with the smooth video project.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1385468/svp-smooth-video-project-discussion-thread
> 
> I have smooth motion interpolation on my LED tv, but it's @ 1080p. Seeing it on a 1440p monitor a foot or so from your face is awesome.
> 
> I really suggest you gents/ladies take the time to set this up and watch a blu-ray movie or two. and if you find you love it like I do, please throw him some rep, he deserves it.


Yep, been using this a good bit now and when I finally got my 1440p (I'm only at 96hz) it blew my mind!!! It's like looking through a window when watching blueray movies







So much clarity when you get rid of that 24fps jutter.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Why is there a setup guide? I just downloaded the kit, install it one shot and load my movies up. It's already setup and done.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Why is there a setup guide? I just downloaded the kit, install it one shot and load my movies up. It's already setup and done.


I don't know man, all i know is doing like the way you said resulted in my pc crashing up with a hard lock, followed the guide and it works perfectly now.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Hmmm either way... it's AWESOME! I watch all my youtube videos the same way as well.







WOOOOOOO! Everyone needs to do it, this will change your life haha


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> So you have that 120hz monitor sitting at 1440p, tired of playing games? Want to watch some videos, how about doing it at 120fps:
> 
> Credit goes to the wonderful forum member airisom2 , who created this guide they did a nice job walking you through setting you up with the smooth video project.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1385468/svp-smooth-video-project-discussion-thread
> 
> I have smooth motion interpolation on my LED tv, but it's @ 1080p. Seeing it on a 1440p monitor a foot or so from your face is awesome.
> 
> I really suggest you gents/ladies take the time to set this up and watch a blu-ray movie or two. and if you find you love it like I do, please throw him some rep, he deserves it.


+Rep!
This should be in OP!


----------



## Loktar Ogar

I think this thread needs updating especially the first page...







I don't see the TS very often.


----------



## lightsout

Is this similar to fake 120hz (interpolation) on TVs? Because I hate the soap opera look. Although finally going to 120hz gaming it has a similar look to it. I'll have to play with it when I get home. Thanks for the link guys.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is this similar to fake 120hz (interpolation) on TVs? Because I hate the soap opera look. Although finally going to 120hz gaming it has a similar look to it. I'll have to play with it when I get home. Thanks for the link guys.


That's exactly what it is, I love the soap opera effect, some people hate it though. So crisp and clean, it's like your there. Does remove some of the illusion though, makes movies seem like watching plays lol.


----------



## lightsout

Oh OK. I think I'll pass then. Turn all that junk off on my TV.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Soaps are filmed at 30fps I believe. The Hobbit movies are more noticeable at 48fps... On my old monitor I was watching youtube and blueray at 60fps and it's incredible. To me this is way above the soap opera effect, especially at 1440p @ 96hz... I refuse to go back







I absolutely just want to vomit when I see a movie on a normal tv at 24fps hahahaha


----------



## Ovrclck

So if I enjoy watching movies at 240Hz, I should *LOVE* this mod then right?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7641/amd-demonstrates-freesync-free-gsync-alternative-at-ces-2014

Thoughts?


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So if I enjoy watching movies at 240Hz, I should *LOVE* this mod then right?


LOL you'll pass out from over excitement!!!!!!!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> LOL you'll pass out from over excitement!!!!!!!


I may start foaming from the mouth


----------



## causese1990

my monitor shows vertical lines after overclocking to 120hz (laser-ish & green)
does that mean OC is unstable?

i used nvidia patcher and cru, nothing else.

total horizontal: 2652 pixels , vertical 1445

can someone post cru settings?


----------



## Pawkins

Just pulled the trigger on a Qnix, I hope you guys are right! And thanks for this in depth guide it was helpful.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7641/amd-demonstrates-freesync-free-gsync-alternative-at-ces-2014
> 
> Thoughts?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*


yeah thats' huge for AMD, stole nvidia's G-sync thunder.


----------



## Ovrclck

Looks like our monitors Smokes the new Asus mon.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## causese1990

is there any chance for a 1.212v card 1225/1900 65% asic (air) to hit 1350+ under water?
(palit jetstream, these were my best results)

how expensive would such a setup be?

is a higher voltage possible for my gpu? is it recommended for 24/7 use? (on water)


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> is there any chance for a 1.212v card 1225/1900 65% asic (air) to hit 1350+ under water?
> (palit jetstream, these were my best results)
> 
> how expensive would such a setup be?
> 
> is a higher voltage possible for my gpu? is it recommended for 24/7 use? (on water)


are you in the right thread?


----------



## causese1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> are you in the right thread?


ops, thanks for reminding.
feel free to delete


----------



## Clexzor

You guys see this mega overpriced panel from asus coming out???

http://hothardware.com/News/Asus-Makes-Upgrading-Your-Monitor-a-Tough-Choice-Rolls-Out-27inch-GSYNC-Display-and-28inch-4K-Panel/

1440p 120hz for 800$ lol what a frakin rip off..even with gsync


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> You guys see this mega overpriced panel from asus coming out???
> 
> http://hothardware.com/News/Asus-Makes-Upgrading-Your-Monitor-a-Tough-Choice-Rolls-Out-27inch-GSYNC-Display-and-28inch-4K-Panel/
> 
> 1440p 120hz for 800$ lol what a frakin rip off..even with gsync


Yep, it's poop. TN Panel too.


----------



## lightsout

Ok I'm going to play around with SVP cause I'm bored.


----------



## AlkaliV2

Ok I really need some help from you all for steps to take on getting my monitor to work. I searched the thread and only saw one person who was getting the scrolling color pattern like I got today and he didn't mention how he got it resolved. First off:

2600k 3.9Ghz
8GB RAM 1333
MSI 770 GTX 4GB
24 AWG Tripp-Lite DVI-Dual link cable
and 9' Amazon basics HDMI to DVI cable

I was running my HDTV to my computer as a monitor at 1360x768 with the HDMI to DVI cable. I did not switch any of these settings at all when I went to hook up the new monitor I just assumed it would display an output having it plugged in. When the monitor detects a signal it blinks quickly and then proceeds to scroll the color test patterns endlessly. Even switching ports and cables, doing full shut down and restart cycles, I cannot get it to display an image. I cannot even get it to show the BIOS splash screen. I normally run DVI from the computer to HDMI on the TV, but no matter which of the two cables I used (I also tried with the included cable) it will not display anything besides the color pattern.

I have a return policy to Amazon and it is already boxed up to go back. However, if you all have seen this before or have suggestions that I could use to get this to work properly I am definitely open to it. Short of opening it up of course because that would void my return capabilities. Any help is appreciated because the screen appears to be flawless and I'd like to keep it. Thanks everyone.

Edit: To ensure my 770 GTX ports were performing properly I grabbed an old acer monitor with a DVI display and hooked it up. It displayed everything and even chose the correct resolution for the monitor (1650x1080) without me having to change anything. I get the feeling that this is how the QNIX should have performed...


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> You guys see this mega overpriced panel from asus coming out???
> 
> http://hothardware.com/News/Asus-Makes-Upgrading-Your-Monitor-a-Tough-Choice-Rolls-Out-27inch-GSYNC-Display-and-28inch-4K-Panel/
> 
> 1440p 120hz for 800$ lol what a frakin rip off..even with gsync


The beauty is our panels are IPS , $300, and should work with free-sync (AMD"s free version of G-sync).

Since any DirectDrive Monitor (DDM 1.0+) display should support it and....

I am pretty sure that is where we are sitting gentlemen.

here is hoping.


----------



## airisom2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Why is there a setup guide? I just downloaded the kit, install it one shot and load my movies up. It's already setup and done.


1. I got bored, and I was unusually patient the day I made the guide.
2. I like having everything modular.
3. All of the stuff in SVP Full, bar SVP Core, is outdated.
4. I've experienced some playback issues with SVP Full.
5. My guide is more in depth on some of the features, it is up to date, it has better filters, and it has better documentation and explanations on some aspects of SVP and the setup process in general.
6. My guide is better than no guide at all.
7. If the guide is followed to a T, there may be less problems getting video/audio played correctly than SVP Full, as the9quad and a couple others (iirc) had.
8. You learn something in the process.
9. I like contributing to OCN


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlkaliV2*
> 
> Ok I really need some help from you all for steps to take on getting my monitor to work. I searched the thread and only saw one person who was getting the scrolling color pattern like I got today and he didn't mention how he got it resolved. First off:
> 
> 2600k 3.9Ghz
> 8GB RAM 1333
> MSI 770 GTX 4GB
> 24 AWG Tripp-Lite DVI-Dual link cable
> and 9' Amazon basics HDMI to DVI cable
> 
> I was running my HDTV to my computer as a monitor at 1360x768 with the HDMI to DVI cable. I did not switch any of these settings at all when I went to hook up the new monitor I just assumed it would display an output having it plugged in. When the monitor detects a signal it blinks quickly and then proceeds to scroll the color test patterns endlessly. Even switching ports and cables, doing full shut down and restart cycles, I cannot get it to display an image. I cannot even get it to show the BIOS splash screen. I normally run DVI from the computer to HDMI on the TV, but no matter which of the two cables I used (I also tried with the included cable) it will not display anything besides the color pattern.
> 
> I have a return policy to Amazon and it is already boxed up to go back. However, if you all have seen this before or have suggestions that I could use to get this to work properly I am definitely open to it. Short of opening it up of course because that would void my return capabilities. Any help is appreciated because the screen appears to be flawless and I'd like to keep it. Thanks everyone.
> 
> Edit: To ensure my 770 GTX ports were performing properly I grabbed an old acer monitor with a DVI display and hooked it up. It displayed everything and even chose the correct resolution for the monitor (1650x1080) without me having to change anything. I get the feeling that this is how the QNIX should have performed...


IS the only resolution you have set >60hz.

You should delete all resolutions except 60hz. might have to plug in another monitor to do it, worht a try.


----------



## AlkaliV2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> IS the only resolution you have set >60hz.
> 
> You should delete all resolutions except 60hz. might have to plug in another monitor to do it, worht a try.


Thank you for the suggestion. Neither the Acer monitor nor the HDTV could get past 60hz so I was never clocked above that. However, I did notice that my refresh rate with the Acer monitor was at 59hz and not 60hz so I changed it. Would the 1hz difference cause there to be no display?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlkaliV2*
> 
> Ok I really need some help from you all for steps to take on getting my monitor to work. I searched the thread and only saw one person who was getting the scrolling color pattern like I got today and he didn't mention how he got it resolved. First off:
> 
> 2600k 3.9Ghz
> 8GB RAM 1333
> MSI 770 GTX 4GB
> 24 AWG Tripp-Lite DVI-Dual link cable
> and 9' Amazon basics HDMI to DVI cable
> 
> I was running my HDTV to my computer as a monitor at 1360x768 with the HDMI to DVI cable. I did not switch any of these settings at all when I went to hook up the new monitor I just assumed it would display an output having it plugged in. When the monitor detects a signal it blinks quickly and then proceeds to scroll the color test patterns endlessly. Even switching ports and cables, doing full shut down and restart cycles, I cannot get it to display an image. I cannot even get it to show the BIOS splash screen. I normally run DVI from the computer to HDMI on the TV, but no matter which of the two cables I used (I also tried with the included cable) it will not display anything besides the color pattern.
> 
> I have a return policy to Amazon and it is already boxed up to go back. However, if you all have seen this before or have suggestions that I could use to get this to work properly I am definitely open to it. Short of opening it up of course because that would void my return capabilities. Any help is appreciated because the screen appears to be flawless and I'd like to keep it. Thanks everyone.
> 
> Edit: To ensure my 770 GTX ports were performing properly I grabbed an old acer monitor with a DVI display and hooked it up. It displayed everything and even chose the correct resolution for the monitor (1650x1080) without me having to change anything. I get the feeling that this is how the QNIX should have performed...


Your not using the hdmi to dvi with the new monitor right?

Messed with SVP. Works as advertised for sure. But not for me. Makes everything look so fake idk. To each is own.


----------



## AlkaliV2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Your not using the hdmi to dvi with the new monitor right?


Yes and No. I first used the cable that came with the monitor, switched to the 24 AWG Tripp-Lite DVI cable, and then for kicks tried using the hdmi to DVI to see if I got output from the HDMI port. None of them were able to get a response.


----------



## the9quad

Yeah it's so clear, all the illusion of reality is definitely stripped away. You can tell the props and costumes, and CGI and Painted backgrounds, I love it. Most people hate it though.


----------



## AlkaliV2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> IS the only resolution you have set >60hz.
> 
> You should delete all resolutions except 60hz. might have to plug in another monitor to do it, worht a try.


In the NVIDIA control panel where it showed my resolutions and I can say that now all of them are set to 60hz except for 1152x864 but that is because it only has the 75hz option. 800x600 and 1024x768 were at 75hz as well but I have changed those back to 60hz now. It won't let me delete 1152x864. Is that what you were having me try?

Edit: On the Acer monitor I have the default resolution set to 1280x720 @60hz and I was wondering if I shut it down and connect the Qnix monitor and restart, if the display works it should display this resolution correctly? Just in a 4:1 pixel ratio?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Yeah it's so clear, all the illusion of reality is definitely stripped away. You can tell the props and costumes, and CGI and Painted backgrounds, I love it. Most people hate it though.


When I first saw it I was amazed. It was incredible Hulk at a local fry's store. Looked like 3d. But after watching it a bit I can't get into it. Its cool for Pixar movies. I want to check it out on football this sunday, heard it looks good. (Go Chargers)!!!!!!!!


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airisom2*
> 
> 1. I got bored, and I was unusually patient the day I made the guide.
> 2. I like having everything modular.
> 3. All of the stuff in SVP Full, bar SVP Core, is outdated.
> 4. I've experienced some playback issues with SVP Full.
> 5. My guide is more in depth on some of the features, it is up to date, it has better filters, and it has better documentation and explanations on some aspects of SVP and the setup process in general.
> 6. My guide is better than no guide at all.
> 7. If the guide is followed to a T, there may be less problems getting video/audio played correctly than SVP Full, as the9quad and a couple others (iirc) had.
> 8. You learn something in the process.
> 9. I like contributing to OCN












My apologies, I didn't mean it as in you wasted your time I just didn't know there was even that much involved with it. I literally installed everything and opened up svp manager and then MPC and played my movies. Your guide definitely brought some things to my attention though and I am thankful for that. Sorry again if that came off rude.

Always love when people contribute!


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Yeah it's so clear, all the illusion of reality is definitely stripped away. You can tell the props and costumes, and CGI and Painted backgrounds, I love it. Most people hate it though.


Newer movies are getting better about some of that stuff but man, one of the worst is watching the first Ghost Rider. You can literally tell all the buildings are made of foam haahahaha!

But I'm with you, I love it! Avengers and Hobbit I think look incredible at high framerate.


----------



## airisom2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My apologies, I didn't mean it as in you wasted your time I just didn't know there was even that much involved with it. I literally installed everything and opened up svp manager and then MPC and played my movies. Your guide definitely brought some things to my attention though and I am thankful for that. Sorry again if that came off rude.
> 
> Always love when people contribute!


No hard feelings, bud









As segregated as OCN can be at times, I've learned a lot of information reading through this website, and I try to chip in whenever I can.


----------



## Doug-E-Square

Quick update; I've only had this monitor for a few days and so far I absolutely love it, games look amazing on it and I'm still trying to figure out tweaking my settings in game. I have one question though and it's the quality of the movies. I feel like it could look better? I know there isn't any 1440p content except Timescape; only thing I found online. I had my bluray drive installed and I had to download a trial program of CyberLink PowerDVD 13, because it was the only way to view my bluray movies. I popped in Game of Thrones and it looked good, viewing Netflix looked good, and downloaded a movie, and it looked good; but not amazing like my games. Is this because it's all HD/1080p content that is being upscaled to 1440p? Or should I try to calibrate my monitor?


----------



## MrDaylight

I need some advice,

I'm thinking of buying this one http://www.ebay.ie/itm/121133303453?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

It's the QNIX with multiple input ports. I read in the FAQ this not OC'able - this makes me very sad as I'm looking for high refresh rates (120hz if possible but I'll settle for lower) HOWEVER I also need this monitor to work with my PS3 system (hey if Tekken was on PC I wouldn't need it) which is currently connected to a TV which I'll be selling in order to afford this monitor. I really need that extra HDMI port for it but I also really want high refresh rates for the PC (the main reason I'm in the market in the first place). Is there absolutely no way to OC the multi input monitor I linked above? Any and all advice and comments welcome. Thanks in advance.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doug-E-Square*
> 
> Quick update; I've only had this monitor for a few days and so far I absolutely love it, games look amazing on it and I'm still trying to figure out tweaking my settings in game. I have one question though and it's the quality of the movies. I feel like it could look better? I know there isn't any 1440p content except Timescape; only thing I found online. I had my bluray drive installed and I had to download a trial program of CyberLink PowerDVD 13, because it was the only way to view my bluray movies. I popped in Game of Thrones and it looked good, viewing Netflix looked good, and downloaded a movie, and it looked good; but not amazing like my games. Is this because it's all HD/1080p content that is being upscaled to 1440p? Or should I try to calibrate my monitor?


If your downloading torrents it's because they are 700mb sizes and not really even 1080p or even 720p, they are (I'm drawing a blank on the correct term) repacks? If you set your player to original resolution you will notice how small they are. Basically it's like 800x400 resolution stretched to fit your screen. If you want true 1080p downloads they are like 35gig, 720p are around 15gig, so yeah, pretty decent quality really for 700mb files, save the big downloads for good movies is my advice


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDaylight*
> 
> I need some advice,
> 
> I'm thinking of buying this one http://www.ebay.ie/itm/121133303453?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> It's the QNIX with multiple input ports. I read in the FAQ this not OC'able - this makes me very sad as I'm looking for high refresh rates (120hz if possible but I'll settle for lower) HOWEVER I also need this monitor to work with my PS3 system (hey if Tekken was on PC I wouldn't need it) which is currently connected to a TV which I'll be selling in order to afford this monitor. I really need that extra HDMI port for it but I also really want high refresh rates for the PC (the main reason I'm in the market in the first place). Is there absolutely no way to OC the multi input monitor I linked above? Any and all advice and comments welcome. Thanks in advance.


No one has found a way to overclock the multi input monitors.


----------



## MrDaylight

I feared such a response. With that said, if I go for the single-input overclocklable version, would anybody have any advice or recommendations on a HDMI to DVI converter? I'll still play the occasional fighting game which requires I have a little frame rate lag as possible. Also, a connector that can be easily switched back and forth from PC to PS3 would be fantastic. Thanks again


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDaylight*
> 
> I feared such a response. With that said, if I go for the single-input overclocklable version, would anybody have any advice or recommendations on a HDMI to DVI converter? I'll still play the occasional fighting game which requires I have a little frame rate lag as possible. Also, a connector that can be easily switched back and forth from PC to PS3 would be fantastic. Thanks again


The oveclockable ones WILL not work with your PS3 at all. It doesn't matter what converter that you use. Don't waste your money if that's what you need it for.


----------



## MrDaylight

What a shame. Do you think the multi-input one is even worth it then? I understand these models' main edge and merit of purchase is their ability to OC beyond 60hz.


----------



## robinaish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> So you have that 120hz monitor sitting at 1440p, tired of playing games? Want to watch some videos, how about doing it at 120fps:
> 
> Credit goes to the wonderful forum member airisom2 , who created this guide they did a nice job walking you through setting you up with the smooth video project.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1385468/svp-smooth-video-project-discussion-thread
> 
> I have smooth motion interpolation on my LED tv, but it's @ 1080p. Seeing it on a 1440p monitor a foot or so from your face is awesome.
> 
> I really suggest you gents/ladies take the time to set this up and watch a blu-ray movie or two. and if you find you love it like I do, please throw him some rep, he deserves it.


Thank you for bringing this up.
This actually brought tears to my eyes!

I had to unpatch the driver to make it work.
(lurker, bought a Qnix)


----------



## LordBelakor

Can anyone tell me or look into the manual if this monitor supports VBLANK? Its a bit of an older technology that older screens had, but now AMD is going to use it with their upcoming FreeSync. As I dont want to waste money on G-Sync it would be nice if I were able to use this free alternative, especially since at 1440p a variable Framerate might be quite useful.

Im also curious about the reaction time and input lag. The FAQ said that its okay for games like LoL or GW2, but is it really that bad? I would never call myself an professional but I am not an casual gamer either, do you think it will hinder my experience in games like Counterstrike? I just wonder cause I never payed attention to reaction times before, and who knows on what reaction time Ive been playing until now, but I havent had any problem.


----------



## dorcopio

I have been away for some months: is there any news about monitors?
Is out there any successor to QNIX QN2710 or something like it?
I would like a 1440p monitor capable of at least 96Hz using Display Port as input and without the needing of driver hacking, third-part software and so on.


----------



## Pawkins

So I just had to pay DHL £18, is that it now for import charges or should I expect more?


----------



## n00bftw

Just received my Qnix Evolution from 2560x1440monitor.com, very fast delivery to the uk indeed and i only had to pay £18 total in vat and handling fees, it was shipped with dhl express. Anyway i managed to overclock this thing to 96hz stable







no need for more than that tbh, no back light bleed at all and no dead pixels but there is a small gap at the front of the bezzle were the screen ends at the bottom, no biggie though as the price i paid for it wipes all doubt from my mind, cant get over how awesome this monitor is, took some pics comparing it to my 120hz lg monitor and the colour difference is crazy. I have now loaded a few ICC profiles in to the color management in windows 7 and WOW the Samsung s27a850d v5 and Asus pb278q v3 make it look even better









Gaming on this thing is a joy also but i think im going to have to switch from my 2gb 770 lightning to a 780ti and then go sli when i can afford it or i may just hang on for nvidia Maxwell series of graphics cards and get a 880 with hopefully at least 4-6gb of ram. I have also purchased a visa 100x100 stand for the monitor as the 1 that came with it kinda sucked, think its called ''Ergotron Neo-Flex LCD LED Adjustable Tilt Monitor Display Desk Stand'' and can be purchased from eBay and Amazon in the UK, very good quality stand and adjusts quite high up and all the way back down to the desk

Sorry about the crappy picture quality and please ignore the spaghetti junction















Blown away with the monitor, great value for money, i insist everyone buy 1 who hasn't already, just try and get it shipped with dhl instead of fed ex as i hear they rape your wallet in fees and ask the seller you buy it from to put the price of the item at $100 or the equivalent in £


----------



## n00bftw

Snap with the £18 with dhl m8 haha, you cant get much better than that and no you will not get any other bills, that it







enjoy, also any1 play battlefield 4 my username is oggie1990 so add me


----------



## Pawkins

Gratz on the monitor but that desk looks so awkward lol.


----------



## n00bftw

I should of purchased a bigger 1, it was only meant for 1 monitor really but it can support the weight of 2 as its thick tempered glass, well fingers crossed anyway.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Doug-E-Square*
> 
> Quick update; I've only had this monitor for a few days and so far I absolutely love it, games look amazing on it and I'm still trying to figure out tweaking my settings in game. I have one question though and it's the quality of the movies. I feel like it could look better? I know there isn't any 1440p content except Timescape; only thing I found online. I had my bluray drive installed and I had to download a trial program of CyberLink PowerDVD 13, because it was the only way to view my bluray movies. I popped in Game of Thrones and it looked good, viewing Netflix looked good, and downloaded a movie, and it looked good; but not amazing like my games. Is this because it's all HD/1080p content that is being upscaled to 1440p? Or should I try to calibrate my monitor?
> 
> 
> 
> If your downloading torrents it's because they are 700mb sizes and not really even 1080p or even 720p, they are (I'm drawing a blank on the correct term) repacks? If you set your player to original resolution you will notice how small they are. Basically it's like 800x400 resolution stretched to fit your screen. If you want true 1080p downloads they are like 35gig, 720p are around 15gig, so yeah, pretty decent quality really for 700mb files, save the big downloads for good movies is my advice
Click to expand...

If you download SD you get SD, HD you get HD. I don't think anyone is downloading 700mb movies expecting 1080p.

@Doug-E-Square I noticed the same thing on my screen. 1080p movie looks good but not great, I think it is because it is being upscaled.


----------



## Tjorhunter

Over 4 days after ordering still waiting for my x-star to be dispatched, sad times. Sorta regretting going with dream-seller now, I went with him because I thought his delivery and service was best.


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> If you download SD you get SD, HD you get HD. I don't think anyone is downloading 700mb movies expecting 1080p.
> 
> @Doug-E-Square I noticed the same thing on my screen. 1080p movie looks good but not great, I think it is because it is being upscaled.


Haha, well i think you would be surprised how many people think dvd rip = dvd quality.


----------



## dorcopio

Ok people: what's better
1) 27" Korean IPS [email protected]

2) 27" Japanese IGZO [email protected]
http://reviews.cnet.com/lcd-monitors/lenovo-thinkvision-pro2840m-4k/4505-3174_7-35833678.html

Price is NOT a problem.


----------



## lightsout

True I agree.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mboner1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> If you download SD you get SD, HD you get HD. I don't think anyone is downloading 700mb movies expecting 1080p.
> 
> @Doug-E-Square I noticed the same thing on my screen. 1080p movie looks good but not great, I think it is because it is being upscaled.
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, well i think you would be surprised how many people think dvd rip = dvd quality.
Click to expand...


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Ok people: what's better
> 1) 27" Korean IPS [email protected]
> 
> 2) 27" Japanese IGZO [email protected]
> http://reviews.cnet.com/lcd-monitors/lenovo-thinkvision-pro2840m-4k/4505-3174_7-35833678.html
> 
> Price is NOT a problem.


No one can answer that for you, what's more important to you.. resolution or smoothness? With these 1440p you get a mixture of both. 2160p would probz be pretty damn sweet to look at tho.


----------



## Hellr4zr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Ok people: what's better
> 1) 27" Korean IPS [email protected]
> 
> 2) 27" Japanese IGZO [email protected]
> http://reviews.cnet.com/lcd-monitors/lenovo-thinkvision-pro2840m-4k/4505-3174_7-35833678.html
> 
> Price is NOT a problem.


What GPU would you be using? Will you be gaming on it? What kinds of games?


----------



## shiftt

can I ask who you got it from what sent it dhl I'm going to pick one up this week and rather not get raped by fed ex thanks

Edit: I must be blind nvm


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordBelakor*
> 
> Can anyone tell me or look into the manual if this monitor supports VBLANK? Its a bit of an older technology that older screens had, but now AMD is going to use it with their upcoming FreeSync. As I dont want to waste money on G-Sync it would be nice if I were able to use this free alternative, especially since at 1440p a variable Framerate might be quite useful.
> 
> Im also curious about the reaction time and input lag. The FAQ said that its okay for games like LoL or GW2, but is it really that bad? I would never call myself an professional but I am not an casual gamer either, do you think it will hinder my experience in games like Counterstrike? I just wonder cause I never payed attention to reaction times before, and who knows on what reaction time Ive been playing until now, but I havent had any problem.


I'm thinking you'd be very hard pressed to tell the difference between 1ms and 6ms for any game. In addition FreeSync should support any direct drive monitor, and I believe these are.


----------



## raistlinx37

Can anyone recommend some good 3 monitor stands for the x-star?


----------



## dorcopio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellr4zr*
> 
> What GPU would you be using? Will you be gaming on it? What kinds of games?


I have found an amazing gem: Dell UP2414Q 24" 4k IPS for 1299$








Something around the power of a 780 Ti (so it could be a 780 Ti, a customized R9 290X or the next 870/880 from nVIDIA).
I have seen that a Titan can achieve 34 fps on BF4 with 4xMSAA and Ultra Quality, while it pushes Crysis 3 at 30 fps with AA.
If I wuold have a 24" 4k I would disable AA and overclock by 20%, so I could get at least 40 fps on those games.

Last but not last: I don't even like BF4 and Crysis 3, so I shouldn't have any problem.








I plan to play The Witcher 2, Assetto Corsa, Project CARS, Borderlands 2, Bioshock and game on sales on Steam; so nothing really heavy or impossible to push at 4K.

Other than gaming I would just do 3D and CAD, mostly blender and Solidworks.

So yes, I'm really really really uncertain on what to pick up.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Love this monitor, just having a hard time getting it to the point where I have no blue line artifacts on the screen.

They only show up in dark scenes and like dark movies.

Can someone explain that?


----------



## Doug-E-Square

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> If you download SD you get SD, HD you get HD. I don't think anyone is downloading 700mb movies expecting 1080p.
> 
> @Doug-E-Square I noticed the same thing on my screen. 1080p movie looks good but not great, I think it is because it is being upscaled.


Yeah I kind of figured that...lol Atleast I'm not the only one, I thought I was missing out on something here...lol I can deal with it being upscaled, just wanted to make sure. Also this PowerDVD 13 Trial says that it upscales my movies and such. I popped in a DVD and didn't really notice any difference, just regular DVD quality...lol Guess we'll have to wait until more 1440p content for movies gets released


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Love this monitor, just having a hard time getting it to the point where I have no blue line artifacts on the screen.
> 
> They only show up in dark scenes and like dark movies.
> 
> Can someone explain that?


Unstable PCB. Downclock monitor until blue lines are gone. If already at 60hz then its an unstable PCB at default settings, and call seller.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Love this monitor, just having a hard time getting it to the point where I have no blue line artifacts on the screen.
> 
> They only show up in dark scenes and like dark movies.
> 
> Can someone explain that?
> 
> 
> 
> Unstable PCB. Downclock monitor until blue lines are gone. If already at 60hz then its an unstable PCB at default settings, and call seller.
Click to expand...

What was that you posted about the new nvidia driver fixing your surround issue? Might want to share it here with others (although I think only a few run surround)


----------



## Sunii

Hello, I was wondering if I may have messed up my monitor. Currently when there is a black/dark color on my monitor, it shows me previous things that have been on my monitor. For example, I am working on a photoshop photo and closed it. However, if I turned on maybe a black/dark theme program such as steam I would still be able to see a faint photoshop photo from before within the blackness/darkness of the steam's theme. Is there anyway I can fix this? Only thing I can thing that may have caused this was when I changed my Hz of my monitor and didn't restart it. Thank you.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Love this monitor, just having a hard time getting it to the point where I have no blue line artifacts on the screen.
> 
> They only show up in dark scenes and like dark movies.
> 
> Can someone explain that?


I don't have this problem.

Possibly faulty monitor?


----------



## Selquist979

Just ordered an X-Star dp2710 matte from dream-seller. Kind of excited to see what 1440p is all about.


----------



## wabak

So do these monitors and say, a R9 290 work well together?

Got it overclocked STABLE at 96hz on my 7950, but wanting to upgrade in the very near future.


----------



## Pawkins

290 is made for higher res like this, boasting a full 512 memory interface and 4GB of RAM, you would do well with one of these. Just make sure you get an aftermarket cooler, it costs more but you will hate the blower cooler on the stock.


----------



## wabak

Yeah going to wait on a non-ref version, looking at the MSI R9 290 gaming edition, or the Asus Direct CU II.


----------



## Pawkins

Check out the Tri-X too, that's looking good.


----------



## Tjorhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Selquist979*
> 
> Just ordered an X-Star dp2710 matte from dream-seller. Kind of excited to see what 1440p is all about.


Apparently dream-seller is having some problems with the manufacturer over the quality of panels. Expect some delay on the delivery, my x-star from him just dispatched today and I ordered it on the 3rd. He says that they've been reviewing all the panels in the message he sent me.


----------



## Selquist979

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjorhunter*
> 
> Apparently dream-seller is having some problems with the manufacturer over the quality of panels. Expect some delay on the delivery, my x-star from him just dispatched today and I ordered it on the 3rd. He says that they've been reviewing all the panels in the message he sent me.


hrm. if he gives an option for a refund I may take it and order the Qnix just cause I tend to get impatient. lol


----------



## Tjorhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Selquist979*
> 
> hrm. if he gives an option for a refund I may take it and order the Qnix just cause I tend to get impatient. lol


Yeahhh, I kinda wanted to go for a Qnix instead. I'm getting really impatient, but I'm just going to stick it out now since it has been dispatched.

Edit: Oh yeah, he did offer me a refund if I wanted it.


----------



## Nostras

Haven't gotten anything conclusive, so i'll post it again.

Got some cards ( check rig ) which don't support Dual-link DVI. Tonsof. But I really like them and they are probably hands down the best bang for the back I've ever had.
Since trading / selling is not an option and I want to OC to 120 hz ( else I'll be stuck at 60fps, nty ) I'd like to use an active adapter between de monitor and the cards.

Someone offered me this one for €60,-
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Bizlink-KS10008-Displayport-To-Dual-Link-Dvi-D-active-Adapter-/00/s/NDc2WDYzNA==/z/diUAAOxy6~BR0jMS/$T2eC16RHJHMFH!e-+TlUBR0jMRsk1Q~~60_3.JPG

Thoughts?

Or am I just as boned as I am right now because the adapter will bottleneck the OC?


----------



## andream88

Hi guys.

I originally bought an X-Star DP2710 tempered glass from Accessories Whole, and it came with a spot of damaged pixels (50+ pixels not working as they should).
They have agreed to get it back and have offered a refund. Top customer service.

In the meantime i ordered an X-Star DP2710 matte from dream-seller.
Received it two days ago and it's perfect, no dead pixels and un-noticeable backlight bleed.
Very happy!


----------



## muscleking

for 60 bucks go get a video card. my old 7900gtx can do over 100hz that is a $10 card. 60 bucks pound can get you like a 560 or 560ti then those overclock better.


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> for 60 bucks go get a video card. my old 7900gtx can do over 100hz that is a $10 card. 60 bucks pound can get you like a 560 or 560ti then those overclock better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> for 60 bucks go get a video card. my old 7900gtx can do over 100hz that is a $10 card. 60 bucks pound can get you like a 560 or 560ti then those overclock better.


Not sure if that's supposed to be a reply to me, but I'll assume it is.

Why would I want to downgrade that bad?

What's the point in getting 2560x1440 if I won't be able to play at 120, no, 60 fps?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Haven't gotten anything conclusive, so i'll post it again.
> 
> Got some cards ( check rig ) which don't support Dual-link DVI. Sucks ass. Tonsof. But I really like them and they are probably hands down the best bang for the back I've ever had.
> Since trading / selling is not an option and I want to OC to 120 hz ( else I'll be stuck at 60fps, nty ) I'd like to use an active adapter between de monitor and the cards.
> 
> Someone offered me this one for €60,-
> http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Bizlink-KS10008-Displayport-To-Dual-Link-Dvi-D-active-Adapter-/00/s/NDc2WDYzNA==/z/diUAAOxy6~BR0jMS/$T2eC16RHJHMFH!e-+TlUBR0jMRsk1Q~~60_3.JPG
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Or am I just as boned as I am right now because the adapter will bottleneck the OC?


Yes it will bottleneck. Even if you get it to accept 120hz the relative amount of response slow down of the active adapter will induce to much motion blur to even run effectively at 60hz. This usually is a bad idea as it is even worse than having an actual scaler. The 60 bucks would be MUCH better spent on a new card.


----------



## Kman3107

I've been reading loads of posts in this thread for a week or so but I can't remember if I ever saw anyone mention this so I'll just ask.

I only have the MSI GTX 680 2GB card and am waiting for the Qnix monitor from StorewithStory on ebay andI was wondering how that would work out. Anyone got an idea? I'll be mostly watching movies but I'll also be playing some games like Skyrim, League of Legends, Call of Duty Ghosts, Diablo III and well alot of other games.

Wondering about how much fps you think it would be able to handle for instance and feel free to use any other game (like bf4 as I've seen many use that) to explain and compare.

Reason I ask is because I already feel like my card is already a bit outdated and am wondering if it's worth getting another and run SLI or if I should maybe get another card with more VRAM.

Thanks.


----------



## Maverickbp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raistlinx37*
> 
> Can anyone recommend some good 3 monitor stands for the x-star?


A user here posted that he's using one of these Tyke stands and a bunch of others seemed to praise them too. I'll be ordering one myself.

http://www.tykesupply.com/Triple_Monitor_Stands-Triple_Monitor_Stand_Free_Standing_Curved_Arm.html


----------



## Kman3107

Thanks for your insight Nostras. I'm pretty happy with my card in most games but sometimes like when trying out heavy modded Skyrim I get kind of annoyed that I don't have more vram








I hope that I can survive a bit longer for my hope is to not spend more money on pc until next year when I want to go for a beast mode pc


----------



## Kman3107

Then from what you say (Spartan F8 & Nostras) I think I'll just keep my 680 for now, and should i decide to go all crazy with the new games I'll get a completely new computer.
I'll stay patient and keep to the million games I already have. I don't play much these days as I'm tired of gaming for long stretches and I work way to much.

Thanks guys.

EDIT: I felt like changing some lines.


----------



## n00bftw

guys just hang on pulling the trigger on a graphics card, just wait another couple months for nvidia new 8 series ''maxwell'' and pull the trigger on an gtx880, it should hopefully be a big performance increase as its a whole new architecture, even if you dont want an 8series card and your wanting a gtx 780ti then the prices on it will drop when maxwell gets released







not worth getting a card at the mo
















or a non reference msi/amd 290x lightning also looks epic as well and should be great for 2560x1440 gaming







will be beast with a great over clock


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordBelakor*
> 
> Wait what? Whats the reason for that? I cant really believe its a technical and unsolvable problem, you still got 2+2=4GB of ram there its not like 2 just dissapeared. So why is it that only half of the total available VRAM can be used? Is it a Software problem like stupid graphic driver programming? Is it DirectX11? Or some technical reason?
> 
> Either way I think they shoudl fix that problem, cause I am pretty damn sure its not something unfixable, if it exists you should damn well be able to use it.


No it actually sorta raids the VRAM together to increase data throughput but NO you do not get to stack VRAM. Try googling SLI VRAM stack and you will get loads of information.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The easiest answer is that both cards need the same data in the frame buffers.

So while you have 2x the VRAM you also have 2x the data, which means you still effectively have the same amount of VRAM to use.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> guys just hang on pulling the trigger on a graphics card, just wait another couple months for nvidia new 8 series ''maxwell'' and pull the trigger on an gtx880, it should hopefully be a big performance increase as its a whole new architecture, even if you dont want an 8series card and your wanting a gtx 780ti then the prices on it will drop when maxwell gets released
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not worth getting a card at the mo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or a non reference msi/amd 290x lightning also looks epic as well and should be great for 2560x1440 gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will be beast with a great over clock


Not so sure about a couple months. But it is coming eventually.


----------



## karamel

Will these monitors work with FreeSync of AMD? I think we need at least a Display Port. Although Display Ported ones are available, I do not know those monitors can be overclocked to 120hz.


----------



## IMI4tth3w

just wanted to update everyone.

so on my other rig (i5 3570k + evga gtx 760) i was getting some green lines when OC'd at 120Hz

just hooked it up to new rig (i7 4770k + evga gtx 780 ti) and not a single green line to be found @ 120Hz.

will continue some testing to make sure that it is 100% stable but from what it seems is that your graphics card/drivers can have an effect on OC ability.

probably going to do a fresh install on my old computer and see if i can get it more stable. think i might be having some driver issues with that one.


----------



## Pawkins

Congrats on the 120, enjoy that.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IMI4tth3w*
> 
> just wanted to update everyone.
> 
> so on my other rig (i5 3570k + evga gtx 760) i was getting some green lines when OC'd at 120Hz
> 
> just hooked it up to new rig (i7 4770k + evga gtx 780 ti) and not a single green line to be found @ 120Hz.
> 
> will continue some testing to make sure that it is 100% stable but from what it seems is that your graphics card/drivers can have an effect on OC ability.
> 
> probably going to do a fresh install on my old computer and see if i can get it more stable. think i might be having some driver issues with that one.


Its weird how it can vary between different gpu's.


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IMI4tth3w*
> 
> just wanted to update everyone.
> 
> so on my other rig (i5 3570k + evga gtx 760) i was getting some green lines when OC'd at 120Hz
> 
> just hooked it up to new rig (i7 4770k + evga gtx 780 ti) and not a single green line to be found @ 120Hz.
> 
> will continue some testing to make sure that it is 100% stable but from what it seems is that your graphics card/drivers can have an effect on OC ability.
> 
> probably going to do a fresh install on my old computer and see if i can get it more stable. think i might be having some driver issues with that one.


I believe that some people have had mixed results depending on the cable they used. I think that the connector on the video card could also play a role in this if it is so sensitive that a cable swap makes the difference.

It is quite odd to me that a cable would make a difference. in the pro audio world it is rare to find a cable would make any difference when using one that has average or above quality connectors.


----------



## rickx190111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IMI4tth3w*
> 
> just wanted to update everyone.
> 
> so on my other rig (i5 3570k + evga gtx 760) i was getting some green lines when OC'd at 120Hz
> 
> just hooked it up to new rig (i7 4770k + evga gtx 780 ti) and not a single green line to be found @ 120Hz.
> 
> will continue some testing to make sure that it is 100% stable but from what it seems is that your graphics card/drivers can have an effect on OC ability.
> 
> probably going to do a fresh install on my old computer and see if i can get it more stable. think i might be having some driver issues with that one.


I'm getting green lines to and I have a 760 also hmm...


----------



## bmgjet

Just wondering.
I know you need to use 2 CF bridges when useing two cards.
What do you do when you have 3 cards in tri-fire. Mates looking at selling his 7970, if there is a way to get around the bridge problem then ill pick it up.


----------



## Ovrclck

I could never get over 96Hz until I switched over to a 3ft cable. Maybe coincidence. Worth a try.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Arizonian

Just a quick interjection:

If you take the time to help someone who used profanity, keep in mind their post will be removed. If you quoted them in your reply, it too must also be removed and really a waste of your time to assist that member.

Had to remove some posts recently that was a chain from original post of profanity in order to keep discussion from becoming disjointed. Just letting you guys know if you were wondering what happened.


----------



## Pawkins

So I'm pulling 120 fps in vsync on mode, does this mean I managed a 120hz overclock?

*edit* I had selected 16bit colour 120hz, fixed it now, 120hz seems stable, lucky me, no apparent backlight bleed and I am yet to find my dead pixels. Did not purchase perfect pixel as this guide advised me not to.


----------



## driedupfish

Hi all, I have some questions regarding overclocking.

1. I have Nvidia, which version of the patch (nvlddmkm-patcher.exe or nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe) should I use?

2. Has anyone updated to the newest Nvidia driver yet? Should I reset back to the stock refresh rate before updating to the newest driver?

Thanks


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> Hi all, I have some questions regarding overclocking.
> 
> 1. I have Nvidia, which version of the patch (nvlddmkm-patcher.exe or nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe) should I use?
> 
> 2. Has anyone updated to the newest Nvidia driver yet? Should I reset back to the stock refresh rate before updating to the newest driver?
> 
> Thanks


1.only use full if you have a 400/500 series card or SLI.
2.not yet, and it doesn't matter.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## driedupfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> 1.only use full if you have a 400/500 series card or SLI.
> 2.not yet, and it doesn't matter.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


What card do you have? Do you have to use the pixel clock patcher? Or did you not need it at all?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> What card do you have? Do you have to use the pixel clock patcher? Or did you not need it at all?


Dual 780 Ti classifieds
You can try first without the patcher, if it doesn't work then patch.


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> 1.only use full if you have a 400/500 series card or SLI.
> 2.not yet, and it doesn't matter.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


I'm using the latest 332.21 WHQL drivers + Full patch for SLI


----------



## driedupfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> I'm using the latest 332.21 WHQL drivers + Full patch for SLI


How long have you been using the latest 332.21? Are there any problems? Am thinking of updating to 332.21 but want to see if there are any problems.


----------



## taafe

Does anyone no when you pay the custom tax? Ive had mine 2 weeks and havent paid a penny yet? I did ask for it to be marked as a gift but they said no but they can mark it at $200 instead of £200 but thought that would only make it cheaper??


----------



## zerocool135

Just wanted to thank you guys for this awesome thread. I finally bit the bullet and got one of these godly monitors. It came in perfect condition whether it be shipping (no damage what so ever to the box) or the monitor itself ( ABSOLUTELY no dead pixels and no BLB to speak of). Loving the extra real estate and the picture while gaming is amazing to say the least. Got to 96 hz with ease haven't had the chance to try for higher yet but that's the next thing on the list.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

I, too, am wondering if it's true that our monitors support freesync


----------



## bmancreations

Best way to clean these monitors, and the bezel?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Best way to clean these monitors, and the bezel?


I usually wipe down with a lint cloth.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> I, too, am wondering if it's true that our monitors support freesync


These panels still have a non scaler coupled LVDS port between the panel and the GPU so without some sort of firmware mod it is NOT going to happen. There is no way we are getting an official released compatible firmware from korean sellers so it would be up to the community to develop one. Lastly there is the blanking time between frames that would be slightly different or slower to match the freesync. The korean panels being VERY customizable in terms of framerate and timings might be able to do this but that is more firmware modding and even timings matching.

With the relatively limited market we have it is unlikely this will happen. You could compare this to the potential these panels have for 3D playback. It is possible but unless an engineer on the forum makes a HUGE contribution it won't happen. UNLESS freesync changes for the better(greater compatibility) before it releases.


----------



## Pawkins

Anyone managed to mount of a Qnix using vesa stands? The holes for the mount seem really shallow.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> These panels still have a non scaler coupled LVDS port between the panel and the GPU so without some sort of firmware mod it is NOT going to happen. There is no way we are getting an official released compatible firmware from korean sellers so it would be up to the community to develop one. Lastly there is the blanking time between frames that would be slightly different or slower to match the freesync. The korean panels being VERY customizable in terms of framerate and timings might be able to do this but that is more firmware modding and even timings matching.
> 
> With the relatively limited market we have it is unlikely this will happen. You could compare this to the potential these panels have for 3D playback. It is possible but unless an engineer on the forum makes a HUGE contribution it won't happen. UNLESS freesync changes for the better(greater compatibility) before it releases.


Well that's saddening, but good to know!







I guess freesync runs off vertical blank? Or something like that? They were saying it's in most monitors as of the past couple years but that's just some quick CES blabble. Thank you for clearing it up. My goal still stands to just push enough fps to lock my frames at the refresh rate and not worry about it







That's why I have 3 gpus! lol

Edited: don't know where vertical drive came from LOL


----------



## taafe

Could someone recommend a decent quality stand for the qnix please


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Could someone recommend a decent quality stand for the qnix please


Monoprice has a 20 dollar single mount vesa stand that is very well made. I am using it myself and it works great.

"Monoprice 5970 vesa mount"


----------



## Hellr4zr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Monoprice has a 20 dollar single mount vesa stand that is very well made. I am using it myself and it works great.
> 
> "Monoprice 5970 vesa mount"


Thx for the info! Purchasing right now


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Could someone recommend a decent quality stand for the qnix please


I just bought this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA961AA-NEW-HP-ZR22w-21-5-LCD-Column-Monitor-Base-Stand-583847-001-647941-001-/360828869747?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item5403139c73

Looks a lot better than some of those monopriced ones..


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> How long have you been using the latest 332.21? Are there any problems? Am thinking of updating to 332.21 but want to see if there are any problems.


I've been using 332.21 for about two days and I haven't had any problems with any of the games I've tried. BF4 (for me anyways) seems to run a tad smoother compared to the previous 331.93 beta.

The only problem I have with the Pixel Clock Patcher is that if I use the full patch (I'm required to anyways because I have SLI) it breaks HDCP so I'm unable to play any Blu-Rays.

From ToastyX's website:
Quote:


> Known issues:
> 
> The full patch breaks HDCP support. It is only needed if the pixel clock is greater than 400 MHz with SLI or 400/500-series GPUs.
> 400/500-series GPUs will not reduce clock speeds on idle if the pixel clock is greater than 404 MHz.
> 2560x1440 @ 102.567 Hz = 404 MHz with "LCD reduced" timing in CRU.


An alternative to the Pixel Clock Patcher is manually overclocking your monitor via the NVIDIA control panel (GTX 700 series card required I believe) or by using EVGA's Pixel Clock tool. HDCP will be working fine even for SLI users. The only downside with these two methods is that not all games will detect the higher unlocked refresh rate and will default back to 60Hz. Whereas with the Pixel Clock Patcher, most games will detect the higher unlocked refreshed game.

Hope this helps. Good luck in your monitor overclocking endeavors!


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorcopio*
> 
> Ok people: what's better
> 1) 27" Korean IPS [email protected]
> 
> 2) 27" Japanese IGZO [email protected]
> http://reviews.cnet.com/lcd-monitors/lenovo-thinkvision-pro2840m-4k/4505-3174_7-35833678.html
> 
> Price is NOT a problem.


Considering how spoiled I am now with 120hz I would never go back to 60 hz. 60 hz burns my eyes, turns me into stone as if looking into the eyes of Medusa.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> How long have you been using the latest 332.21? Are there any problems? Am thinking of updating to 332.21 but want to see if there are any problems.


I tried 332.21 I went back to previous beta driver mine had flickering in bf4 on snow maps when you went out in the snow. I am running 2 780Ti also.


----------



## driedupfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doctakedooty*
> 
> I tried 332.21 I went back to previous beta driver mine had flickering in bf4 on snow maps when you went out in the snow. I am running 2 780Ti also.


What kind of flickering? Is it shadow flickering?


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> What kind of flickering? Is it shadow flickering?


Its like screen flicker only in when its snowing I went back to the beta driver and it quit doing it. I will try the new driver again when I get home in the morning but I wasn't oc either.


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Monoprice has a 20 dollar single mount vesa stand that is very well made. I am using it myself and it works great.
> 
> "Monoprice 5970 vesa mount"


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I just bought this
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA961AA-NEW-HP-ZR22w-21-5-LCD-Column-Monitor-Base-Stand-583847-001-647941-001-/360828869747?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item5403139c73
> 
> Looks a lot better than some of those monopriced ones..


I do like that mount but i live in the uk so after shipping and customs its almost cost £70. My question is can i get any vesa stand for the qnix? If not how did you know if that fits? Thanks


----------



## n00bftw

these are great also i have 1 myself - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121185901654?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
requires no modding just plug and play baby


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> these are great also i have 1 myself - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121185901654?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> requires no modding just plug and play baby


I really like that stand but what monitor do you have? Would it hold a 27"?


----------



## Face2Face

I remember reading it somewhere on here, but I cannot find it now. What is the "Safe" in spec Pixel clock I should shoot for. I tried for 120Hz with a standard pixel clock and got the green line artifact . Then did the reduced pixel clock @ 120Hz and everything seems good. Just wanted to see if there was a certain pixel clock I should be shooting for for longevity reasons.


----------



## lightsout

I have read that the PCB is rated for 450 pixel clock. So some people try to keep it under that.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> I remember reading it somewhere on here, but I cannot find it now. What is the "Safe" in spec Pixel clock I should shoot for. I tried for 120Hz with a standard pixel clock and got the green line artifact . Then did the reduced pixel clock @ 120Hz and everything seems good. Just wanted to see if there was a certain pixel clock I should be shooting for for longevity reasons.


The PCB's MAX data rate is 450mhz. The closer you are to 450mhz the better. Many get around 459 or 461 with a total pixel count or 2652x1445. At stock the blanking should be set to 3 and 5, changing both these to 1 may have some positive effects on motion blur(gives it a faster blanking period to compensate for the low total pixel count to reduce data rate).

EDIT: Be warned that non standard timings will help the longevity of the monitor and more stabilize the overclock BUT it will also not allow the VRAM to fully idle down forcing your GPU into a P1 state instead of P0 power state at idle. This will make your GPU run 5-10 degrees warmer(which is not really a problem with most cards)


----------



## Face2Face

Great info guys! Thank you.


----------



## Face2Face

Does this look good?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> I do like that mount but i live in the uk so after shipping and customs its almost cost £70. My question is can i get any vesa stand for the qnix? If not how did you know if that fits? Thanks


Any Vesa stand will work.

Reason I know the hp stand will work is other members are using the same mount. Just do a search for zr22w

Since you're in the UK, just find whatever is cheap yet effective


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face2Face*
> 
> Does this look good?


perfect!


----------



## Pawkins

Can I drop pixel count without losing my 120hz? I had no idea about this mine is on 470 I think.


----------



## Kman3107

I just connected my new Qnix monitor to the computer and holy cow this is awesome. So much more roooooom. I love this. Cba to do any test atm (to tired) but for now I'm loving it.


----------



## Face2Face

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> perfect!


Sweet, thanks


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawkins*
> 
> Can I drop pixel count without losing my 120hz? I had no idea about this mine is on 470 I think.


Yes, that is the whole idea









Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Pawkins

Sorry if I'm being annoying, I just replicated Face2Face's numbers, it all looks the same as before, and my pixel clock is now 459 like his, what has this done? More stable or something? Thanks anyway.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawkins*
> 
> Sorry if I'm being annoying, I just replicated Face2Face's numbers, it all looks the same as before, and my pixel clock is now 459 like his, what has this done? More stable or something? Thanks anyway.


If you take a solid white or grey background and compare before and after. Usually you can tell a difference in color uniformity. Also yes you should have slightly better stability since 460mhz is a marginal overclock over 450mhz(when comparing to stock timings around 500mhz).


----------



## Kman3107

Quick question as I have no idea what I'm going. I overclocked the monitor with evga pixel clock prog and it seemed to work just fine but when I tried using the CRU and restarted to check my windows changed to windows basic and now no matter what refresh rate I try it's at 30fps in the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping even though nvidia tells me it's at 60, 96 and 120 hz.

Why is this? What went wrong?

EDIT: Ok so the windows is not put to basic and is still aero but things changed so much and I can't see through things so I'm guessing that's the color scheme I changed to.
But the fps thing is still a problem. Don't help if I restart.

EDIT2: So. I realised that the reason why things looked different was not because of the color scheme but the color depth was changed from high to medium.

Basically I need help







I don't get why I can't oc it at all with High color depth.

EDIT3: I now tried to clock with evga pixel clock with high color depth to 96 and the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping tells me that the fps won't hold stable and is between 58-60 when at full screen but when I put the browser in a smaller window it goes stable at 96fps.


----------



## thebufenator

Ordered a matte one. Can't wait


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> Quick question as I have no idea what I'm going. I overclocked the monitor with evga pixel clock prog and it seemed to work just fine but when I tried using the CRU and restarted to check my windows changed to windows basic and now no matter what refresh rate I try it's at 30fps in the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping even though nvidia tells me it's at 60, 96 and 120 hz.
> 
> Why is this? What went wrong?
> 
> EDIT: Ok so the windows is not put to basic and is still aero but things changed so much and I can't see through things so I'm guessing that's the color scheme I changed to.
> But the fps thing is still a problem. Don't help if I restart.
> 
> EDIT2: So. I realised that the reason why things looked different was not because of the color scheme but the color depth was changed from high to medium.
> 
> Basically I need help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't get why I can't oc it at all with High color depth.
> 
> EDIT3: I now tried to clock with evga pixel clock with high color depth to 96 and the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping tells me that the fps won't hold stable and is between 58-60 when at full screen but when I put the browser in a smaller window it goes stable at 96fps.


You need to start over and do some reading. You are OVERCLOCKING, you need to know what you are doing before you start. There is tons of information is this thread regarding proper overclocking. Try searching "front porch" and you will find a wealth of information from me and other members that have already posted dozens of times for members in your predicament.


----------



## Nostras

Managed to snag a 7970 Matrix Platinum, which will replace one of my 7970 Lightning boosts.
I don't really like the looks, but I guess I'll simply have to deal with it.

About to buy this one right here.
http://www.ebay.nl/itm/New-Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/321237616203?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acb41064b&_uhb=1

I read that storewithstory was a decent seller ( greensum did best of all ).
This screen was simply the cheapest from a seller I've read a lot of people bought from.

Am I about to make a mistake or is there something else I should buy?

Thanks guys!


----------



## Kman3107

I bought my screen from storewithstory and it got to ireland and to me after just 3 days. I haven't found any dead pixels yet (haven't really looked either) and haven't checked for blb yet.


----------



## odellus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I just bought this
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA961AA-NEW-HP-ZR22w-21-5-LCD-Column-Monitor-Base-Stand-583847-001-647941-001-/360828869747?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item5403139c73
> 
> Looks a lot better than some of those monopriced ones..


post pictures when you get it please


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odellus*
> 
> post pictures when you get it please


Absolutely!


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> I bought my screen from storewithstory and it got to ireland and to me after just 3 days. I haven't found any dead pixels yet (haven't really looked either) and haven't checked for blb yet.


Taxes?


----------



## Kman3107

17 something euro

EDIT: Thought I'd mention now that I've checked for BLB and dead pixels. There are no dead pixels and there is a very slight BLB at the bottom right which I only notice when looking at in pitch dark and black background. I will probably never notice it under any other circumstances so I'm so damn happy right now







StorewithStory on Ebay get's my thumbs up.


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> 17 something euro


Whoa, that's really nice. Total price was like... 260?


----------



## jcm27

AHHHH!
Getting warranty sorted for this is so damn frustrating!
Been trying to get one sorted since November and all Green-Sum is saying is our policy does not do this do that, we cant do this that.
Just basically spent £220 on a monitor that was amazing while it worked for the whole 4 months I had it!

Where else could I try and get this monitor fixed?

Problem is
When I power on the monitor, the backlight would turn on but not display any pictures, also the power LED dims instead of staying bright blue.


----------



## Kman3107

EDIT: damn these posts came out of nowhere. Wasn't a double post after all









EDIT2: My monitor cost total was €236 - $322 - £195 - NOK 1986

EDIT3: Keep in mind these prices are aprox, depending on the exchange rate and so on.
I bought from StorewithStory on Ebay for $299 pluss shipping. $20 and then €17 VAT.


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> 17 something euro
> 
> EDIT: Thought I'd mention now that I've checked for BLB and dead pixels. There are no dead pixels and there is a very slight BLB at the bottom right which I only notice when looking at in pitch dark and black background. I will probably never notice it under any other circumstances so I'm so damn happy right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> StorewithStory on Ebay get's my thumbs up.


Awesome, once my card is here I'm pulling the trigger.


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> these are great also i have 1 myself - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121185901654?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> requires no modding just plug and play baby


Just ordered one from amazon £40 inc delivery prob could of gotten it cheaper but my current stand is slanted and wobbles like mad when gaming. Cheers repped


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> EDIT: damn these posts came out of nowhere. Wasn't a double post after all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT2: My monitor cost total was €236 - $322 - £195 - NOK 1986
> 
> EDIT3: Keep in mind these prices are aprox, depending on the exchange rate and so on.
> I bought from StorewithStory on Ebay for $299 pluss shipping. $20 and then €17 VAT.


Hmm, it's 310 now, still cheap. It says "approx 228.12", does the actual price deviate a lot from it?


----------



## Thax

My Qnix from storewithstory just arrived.
There is one pixel i first considered dead but after cyling through different colors and using my magnifier it appeared to be a dead green subpixel.

Dead pixel policy is "up to 1pcs x black dot pixel; not any bright pixel". Is a dead subpixel threaded as black dot pixel?

And what would you consider worse: dead pixel (allways black) or dead green subpixel (thus showing wrong colors e.g. magenta on white backgrounds)

Backlight bleed is quite heavy. The panel seems only be strongly fixed on the upper left corner (the one without bleeding) while at all other corners the panel can easily pushed back several millimeters. Will do some screenshots now.


----------



## n00bftw

For those that were interested about a vesa stand who reside in the uk, this 1 is great for the qnix, you just need 2 or 3 thin washers to put behind each screw that comes with it as the screws are too long, or you could saw the 4 screws down to the correct size although i recommend purchasing some cheap washers of ebay and bobs your uncle







please look at picture to see what i mean

Also the monitor weighs no way near the maximum load of the vesa stand so its very safe and looks pretty good

Ergotron Neo-Flex LCD LED Adjustable Tilt Monitor
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121185901654?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thax*
> 
> My Qnix from storewithstory just arrived.
> There is one pixel i first considered dead but after cyling through different colors and using my magnifier it appeared to be a dead green subpixel.
> 
> Dead pixel policy is "up to 1pcs x black dot pixel; not any bright pixel". Is a dead subpixel threaded as black dot pixel?
> 
> And what would you consider worse: dead pixel (allways black) or dead green subpixel (thus showing wrong colors e.g. magenta on white backgrounds)
> 
> Backlight bleed is quite heavy. The panel seems only be strongly fixed on the upper left corner (the one without bleeding) while at all other corners the panel can easily pushed back several millimeters. Will do some screenshots now.


A green pixel would be considered as a "stuck pixel" which is not covered under any scam.....i mean perfect pixel policy.


----------



## Thax

the green subpixel is not stuck (allways on) but defective (allways off). A white background normally would be red+green+blue full on. But with green not working it is red+blue full on = magenta

 

Here are the screenshots of backlight bleeding and the panel corners.

The top left one which is good fixed:
 

The right corners with backlight bleeding and extensive backlight bleeding with minor pressure:


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thax*
> 
> the green subpixel is not stuck (allways on) but defective (allways off). A white background normally would be red+green+blue full on. But with green not working it is red+blue full on = magenta
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the screenshots of backlight bleeding and the panel corners.
> 
> The good right one which is good fixed:
> 
> 
> The right corners with backlight bleeding and extensive backlight bleeding with minor pressure:
> ]


Try explaining that to your seller and good luck. Also just do the BLB fix to get rid of the panel pressure, or better yet just get rid of the bezel.


----------



## bigsnyder

Is the HP zr22w stand tall enough to allow the 27" monitor to rotate to portrait?


----------



## lawson67

Hi guys i just ordered my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel 27" 2560x1440
Ordered from Ebay seller "accessorieswhole" ...if anyone has had dealing with him buying yours i hope all went well?....i paid a bit extra for Perfect Pixel and i now have to learn how to overclock it so when it comes i am up to speed with that......i cant wait for it to arrive i have 2 gtx 660 in sli and an overclocked i7-4770k and i am hoping it will run games overclocked at native resolution....


----------



## fouBelieve

How to remove the stand only? I don't want to debezel
Do I just remove the four screws at bottom then remove the front screen from the back by prying with a screwdriver?
It looks like the back is still attached how do I get to the stand area to take it out?
There's no guides for removing the stand?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> How to remove the stand only? I don't want to debezel
> Do I just remove the four screws at bottom then remove the front screen from the back by prying with a screwdriver?
> It looks like the back is still attached how do I get to the stand area to take it out?
> There's no guides for removing the stand?


YES in 1200+ pages this has been talked about. Search stand or stalk removal and you will find this has been talked about dozens of times. There is a few screws you have to remove.


----------



## fouBelieve

Yeah I got it myself, but some of the clips broke when I removed the front part.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> How to remove the stand only? I don't want to debezel
> Do I just remove the four screws at bottom then remove the front screen from the back by prying with a screwdriver?
> It looks like the back is still attached how do I get to the stand area to take it out?
> There's no guides for removing the stand?


For future reference:

http://www.technologyx.com/featured/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/2/


----------



## Kman3107

bleh. hours on end of trying different things and still no stable oc. I'll just skip it for now as I'm to tired to keep restarting computer over and over and over.

The frame skipping test is failing but I'm not getting any artifacts or stuff like that is it safe for me to keep it at 120hz or should I go back to 60hz until frame skipping test confirms stable oc?

I spoke prematurely. I get some lines here and there when playing cs:go which kinda messes me up as I keep thinking it's shots coming from somewhere. (allthough that's just when playing without sound.)


----------



## fouBelieve

Cheers hard rock that would've been useful but I did it haha, and I did esaxtly what he said not to do, take the screws off the rails lol! Hope I did no damage, the front and top has some damage from using th screwdriver to chisel it off lol







such a noob


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> bleh. hours on end of trying different things and still no stable oc. I'll just skip it for now as I'm to tired to keep restarting computer over and over and over.
> 
> The frame skipping test is failing but I'm not getting any artifacts or stuff like that is it safe for me to keep it at 120hz or should I go back to 60hz until frame skipping test confirms stable oc?
> 
> I spoke prematurely. I get some lines here and there when playing cs:go which kinda messes me up as I keep thinking it's shots coming from somewhere. (allthough that's just when playing without sound.)


Try searching in teh thread for "frameskipping" you will find several members did not run the test properly as you very likely are. The Qnix has never had a confirmed positive report of frameskipping. Things like a second screen running, the browser maximized, the browser window off screen, etc can skew the tests for frameskipping.

Also you can test pixel clock settings n the NVCP first without restarting and after getting the right settings then put them into CRU.


----------



## Kman3107

Another day another oc. Man I forgot how fun this is. (been like a year since last I oc'd anything.)

So I figured out stuff,, or rather I read did as you said and started reading through stuff (taking me forever btw) and found that it was because I was running multimonitor and to top it off with different refresh rates. Which btw was a post of yours Spartan F8, so you could've saved me a alot of time.

I have gotten the the UFO test to show me the stable pictures but it still says I have some stutter. And I will check again soon to see if I still get these tears when playing cs:go.

At least HD looks like real HD now









EDIT: Also wondering, does it matter what DVI cable I change to? (if I wan't to get a new one)
Is it that the DVI cable that came with is really bad or is it that there are some that are better?


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi guys i just ordered my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel 27" 2560x1440
> Ordered from Ebay seller "accessorieswhole" ...if anyone has had dealing with him buying yours i hope all went well?....i paid a bit extra for Perfect Pixel and i now have to learn how to overclock it so when it comes i am up to speed with that......i cant wait for it to arrive i have 2 gtx 660 in sli and an overclocked i7-4770k and i am hoping it will run games overclocked at native resolution....


Yeh i got the exact same monitor from them over christmas and im absolutley amazed with it. Zero dead pixels and no blb also im based in uk and i didnt pay any tax?? I asked them to mark it as a gift, they said they couldnt do that any more because ups will not accept but he said that he would mark it at $200 instead and for some reason i payed zero tax!? Delivery was really fast, hope you get one as good as mine good luck


----------



## Hellr4zr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi guys i just ordered my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel 27" 2560x1440
> Ordered from Ebay seller "accessorieswhole" ...if anyone has had dealing with him buying yours i hope all went well?....i paid a bit extra for Perfect Pixel and i now have to learn how to overclock it so when it comes i am up to speed with that......i cant wait for it to arrive i have 2 gtx 660 in sli and an overclocked i7-4770k and i am hoping it will run games overclocked at native resolution....


Ordered the same from "accesorieswhole", except that mine wasn't the Pixel Perfect version. Had 0 bad pixels anyway and no BLB. Arrived in 5 days, and about 10 days later a letter came from FedEx to let me know I had to pay £36 for VAT here in the UK.

Loving the monitor! It's awesome!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellr4zr*
> 
> Ordered the same from "accesorieswhole", except that mine wasn't the Pixel Perfect version. Had 0 bad pixels anyway and no BLB. Arrived in 5 days, and about 10 days later a letter came from FedEx to let me know I had to pay £36 for VAT here in the UK.
> 
> Loving the monitor! It's awesome!


Wow so glad you 2 guys have given good feed back with this seller and that your monitors turned up without any pixel damage or light bleed, did you 2 guys manage to get 120 mhz stable on your monitors?...i will be trying to find out today which and where to to get the overclocking software from and a good guide to overclocking it....thanks for your replays guys and so happy that you are loving you monitors...btw do you think 2 Asus GTX 660 OC DIRECT CU Cards in sli will run games on high at native resolution?


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Wow so glad you 2 guys have given good feed back with this seller and that your monitors turned up without any pixel damage or light bleed, did you 2 guys manage to get 120 mhz stable on your monitors?...i will be trying to find out today which and where to to get the overclocking software from and a good guide to overclocking it....thanks for your replays guys and so happy that you are loving you monitors...btw do you think 2 Asus GTX 660 OC DIRECT CU Cards in sli will run games on high at native resolution?


I guess you mean 120 Hz, Mhz is a bit... Maybe in 50 years








660 SLI will work fine, bus width cripples your cards a bit, but it's not THAT bad.
You should be fine if you turn off AA ( +60FPS ).


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> I guess you mean 120 Hz, Mhz is a bit... Maybe in 50 years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 660 SLI will work fine, bus width cripples your cards a bit, but it's not THAT bad.
> You should be fine if you turn off AA ( +60FPS ).


Thanks for your reply mate and just found the overclocking guide on page one and giving that a read now does not look to hard...nothing could be as hard as overclocking haswell and trying to achive a stable overclock....i been there and done that....
Also did you use the stock Duel link DVI cable that came with the monitor or did you buy a better quality one?....and if so where did you get it from?....also yes sorry i do mean HZ and not MHZ lol......did you manage to hit 120hz with your monitor?


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks for your reply mate and just found the overclocking guide on page one and giving that a read now does not look to hard...nothing could be as hard as overclocking haswell and trying to achive stable overclock....i been there and done that....
> Also did you use the stock Duel link DVI cable that came with the monitor or did you buy a better quality one?....and if so where did you get it from?....also yes sorry i do mean HZ and not MHZ lol......did you manage to hit 120hz with your monitor?


I don't have mine... Yet.
My cards don't support Dual-link DVI and if I want to overclock, you need a DVI only monitor.
Once the card is in and I confirmed it working I'm pulling the trigger on the monitor.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> I don't have mine... Yet.
> My cards don't support Dual-link DVI and if I want to overclock, you need a DVI only monitor.
> Once the card is in and I confirmed it working I'm pulling the trigger on the monitor.


Oh ok and yes i did get the DVI in only monitor...i did a fair bit of research before i bought it i just want to find a good quality duel link cable now...


----------



## lawson67

I just bought this gold dvi-d duel link cable...hopefully it will help give me a good overclock when my monitor arrives..

http://www.tvcables.co.uk/cgi-bin/tvcables/2m-premium-gold-dvi-pc-monitor-cable.html


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> I guess you mean 120 Hz, Mhz is a bit... Maybe in 50 years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 660 SLI will work fine, bus width cripples your cards a bit, but it's not THAT bad.
> You should be fine if you turn off AA ( +60FPS ).


I currently only have a gtx 680 so i cant see what it overclocks until i upgrade too somethings that will keep a contant 100+ fps with max setting single card etc, prob gonna wait til maxwell. With my 680 i get 50-60 fps at max settings so you shoulf easly get 60+ for sure. The only thing i would recommend is a new stand because the one that comes standard isnt the best i got one off ebay if your interested let me know and ill send you ths link, thinks its £30 with delivery.


----------



## Hellr4zr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Wow so glad you 2 guys have given good feed back with this seller and that your monitors turned up without any pixel damage or light bleed, did you 2 guys manage to get 120 mhz stable on your monitors?...i will be trying to find out today which and where to to get the overclocking software from and a good guide to overclocking it....thanks for your replays guys and so happy that you are loving you monitors...btw do you think 2 Asus GTX 660 OC DIRECT CU Cards in sli will run games on high at native resolution?


Mine overclocked fine, both 96hz and 120hz through Nvidia custom res. I tried both in games and it works flawlessly!

As for cables, I didn't even take mine out of the box. I purchased a good quality one on Amazon and have been using that one!


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I just bought this gold dvi-d duel link cable...hopefully it will help give me a good overclock when my monitor arrives..
> 
> http://www.tvcables.co.uk/cgi-bin/tvcables/2m-premium-gold-dvi-pc-monitor-cable.html


Ow man, you just got ripped off.
This reminds me of that "gold plated titanium quality diamond cable HDMI" of €100.
Then they did a test, a €4 cable from the action performed better.

Without doubt I believe this also applies to DVI cables.

Anyways, how's overclocking with AMD cards?
Is it harder or the same?


----------



## derekmiao

I just received my QX 2710 DPort. There is no dead pixel and very minimum back light bleeding. However, I noticed that the color temperature is not uniform. When showing white scene, the lower right corner is a bit yellowish.

Is this something I fix by the tape mod?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Ow man, you just got ripped off.
> This reminds me of that "gold plated titanium quality diamond cable HDMI" of €100.
> Then they did a test, a €4 cable from the action performed better.
> 
> Without doubt I believe this also applies to DVI cables.
> 
> Anyways, how's overclocking with AMD cards?
> Is it harder or the same?


http://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B0012E43II/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B0012E43II/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1


Literally the first review.
I realise that since the signal passing through these is digital the 'quality' of the cable really really really won't affect the picture. If a one or a zero goes in a one or a zero will come out simple as. The build quality is excellent and the packaging and thats war brings this up. If you're looking for a basic good quality dvi cable: they are all the same and any google search will tell you that. I guarantee that a £5 cable vs a £40 one won't make any difference!


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B0012E43II/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1


I think some people have found cable length helps achieve bigger refresh rates, so going from the stock to one that's 1m in length would be your best bet, although it's not guaranteed. The cable you went for looks pretty fancy though...


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B0012E43II/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1
> 
> 
> 
> Literally the first review.
> I realise that since the signal passing through these is digital the 'quality' of the cable really really really won't affect the picture. If a one or a zero goes in a one or a zero will come out simple as. The build quality is excellent and the packaging and thats war brings this up. If you're looking for a basic good quality dvi cable: they are all the same and any google search will tell you that. I guarantee that a £5 cable vs a £40 one won't make any difference!
Click to expand...

I picked up one of these for the multi input version. Beastly cable!
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-diamond-3-3-high-speed-hdmi-cable-dark-gray-black/2383276.p?id=1218324437192


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I have read that the PCB is rated for 450 pixel clock. So some people try to keep it under that.I picked up one of these for the multi input version. Beastly cable!
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-diamond-3-3-high-speed-hdmi-cable-dark-gray-black/2383276.p?id=1218324437192


I.. Ehh...








What the...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> I think some people have found cable length helps achieve bigger refresh rates, so going from the stock to one that's 1m in length would be your best bet, although it's not guaranteed. The cable you went for looks pretty fancy though...


Yep sounds like i got ripped off... oh well i will just have to live with that...but as you say it looks cool which is never a bad thing


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B0012E43II/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1
> 
> 
> 
> Literally the first review.
> I realise that since the signal passing through these is digital the 'quality' of the cable really really really won't affect the picture. If a one or a zero goes in a one or a zero will come out simple as. The build quality is excellent and the packaging and thats war brings this up. If you're looking for a basic good quality dvi cable: they are all the same and any google search will tell you that. I guarantee that a £5 cable vs a £40 one won't make any difference!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I picked up one of these for the multi input version. Beastly cable!
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-diamond-3-3-high-speed-hdmi-cable-dark-gray-black/2383276.p?id=1218324437192
Click to expand...

This was not a shot at lawson67 in any way. Just think its funny this cable is so much. I think they figured out a way to put a GTX Titan in the cable or something


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quick question: Does one have to match the timings in settings in the nvidia control panel to the settings set in CRU?


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> I.. Ehh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the...


Umm Isn't it not possible to overclock with the multi input?


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Umm Isn't it not possible to overclock with the multi input?


Double invertion


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Double invertion


I don't know what that means...

Edit: Google found this: *Inversion* is a deviation from the normal change of an atmospheric property with altitude.

Still don't get it.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> Another day another oc. Man I forgot how fun this is. (been like a year since last I oc'd anything.)
> 
> So I figured out stuff,, or rather I read did as you said and started reading through stuff (taking me forever btw) and found that it was because I was running multimonitor and to top it off with different refresh rates. Which btw was a post of yours Spartan F8, so you could've saved me a alot of time.
> 
> I have gotten the the UFO test to show me the stable pictures but it still says I have some stutter. And I will check again soon to see if I still get these tears when playing cs:go.
> 
> At least HD looks like real HD now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also wondering, does it matter what DVI cable I change to? (if I wan't to get a new one)
> Is it that the DVI cable that came with is really bad or is it that there are some that are better?


I did save you a lot of time for posting it previously(i have actually posted it a total of 12 times here and other Qnix threads). I try and call it quites at 10+ reposts and start telling people to search for a specific term that will get them there pretty quick. I also don't mind if you send me a PM sending anyone reposts(for the sake of not overbloating the thread). Honestly if i reposted every time an issue like this came up the thread would be well over 2000+ pages.

I know it took you a little longer but i am sure you probably learned a few extra things along the way.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I don't know what that means...
> 
> Edit: Google found this: *Inversion* is a deviation from the normal change of an atmospheric property with altitude.
> 
> Still don't get it.


I don't get it either but i can tell you this has been asked repeatedly and is in the OP. No the multi input version does not overclock(and even if you could get it to the scaler would make it not worth due to motion blur.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Quick question: Does one have to match the timings in settings in the nvidia control panel to the settings set in CRU?


No, CRU modifies the EDID of the monitor driver and is thus at teh driver level. NVCP applies alternate values after the fact(thus not showing up in some games and apps). These are held in different areas. It is best to test with NVCP(so you don't have to repeatedly restart) and then add them to CRU once optimized timings are achieved.


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> I don't know what that means...
> 
> Edit: Google found this: *Inversion* is a deviation from the normal change of an atmospheric property with altitude.
> 
> Still don't get it.


I was commenting on your "isn't not".
Anyhow, apparently monitors with multiple inputs have scalers, monitors with scalers lack overclockablity.
Now combining a higher price with the cost of not being able to overclock it makes buying a korean very questionable.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I did save you a lot of time for posting it previously(i have actually posted it a total of 12 times here and other Qnix threads). I try and call it quites at 10+ reposts and start telling people to search for a specific term that will get them there pretty quick. I also don't mind if you send me a PM sending anyone reposts(for the sake of not overbloating the thread). Honestly if i reposted every time an issue like this came up the thread would be well over 2000+ pages.
> 
> I know it took you a little longer but i am sure you probably learned a few extra things along the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't get it either but i can tell you this has been asked repeatedly and is in the OP. No the multi input version does not overclock(and even if you could get it to the scaler would make it not worth due to motion blur.
> No, CRU modifies the EDID of the monitor driver and is thus at teh driver level. NVCP applies alternate values after the fact(thus not showing up in some games and apps). These are held in different areas. It is best to test with NVCP(so you don't have to repeatedly restart) and then add them to CRU once optimized timings are achieved.


Thanks for responding. To get the confusion out of the way I'd like to say that I know that the multiinput version doesn't overclock. I was confirming this for someone else who his (sarcastically I believe) talking about buying a $1k HDMI cable...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> I was commenting on your "isn't not".
> Anyhow, apparently monitors with multiple inputs have scalers, monitors with scalers lack overclockablity.
> Now combining a higher price with the cost of not being able to overclock it makes buying a korean very questionable.


Not really, think about cost of construction. The panels with multiple inputs have a whole additional board inside them making it more like a mainstream monitor. Overclocking is not an objective cost factor for this monitor yet so it is not considered a "feature"(like the catleap 2B's suffered).

More parts = higher price


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Spartan you're probably the most knowledgeable guy for these monitors, can you help me with that HDCP issue?

It's showing that static screen as if I change the channel on a TV to an unbroadcasted station. This only happens when I watch HBO Go or bluray movies. This also only happens when I'm running over 60hz. I'm using CRU only. No pixel clock patch. Are you or anyone else having this problem watching content such as described? Is there any way around this without switching to 60hz? For HBO Go I'm able to turn of the monitor and the video buffers again and magically the monitor doesn't go to static anymore. It somehow bypasses it! Also when I turn on the monitor (trying to bypass the bluray) it doesn't work but I can still see the content for a second before it changes to static. So clearly it works fine at 120hz its just being a pain the butt.


----------



## AlkaliV2

Test mode, test pattern, flashing colors, scrolling colors, safe mode, no input

I put those words at the top so I can help others find this issue that I ran into because those were the searches I made and didn't quite find a solution. I bought a QNIX QX2710 and when I hooked it up it was scrolling through red, green, blue, white, and a color mix. I did a lot of troubleshooting just short of taking it apart. The reason I did not take it apart was because I still had the return policy and wanted to be able to return it to BizBuy on Amazon without a ton of screwdriver damage around the bezel







Anyway, I was able to determine that when the computer would send a signal to get the monitor to display the input, the colors would stop scrolling, the screen would go black, and I would hear a few successive pops from behind the screen and it would go back to scrolling the colors. I replicated this several times and even took the advice of making sure that I was in a 60hz resolution to ensure I tested all possibilities. In the end I did return it and the replacement monitor that I got worked perfectly right out of the box so it was not my setup thankfully.

I just wanted people to know that if your input is connected and you are seeing scrolling colors listen for a popping sound in the back of the monitor when you are rebooting or starting up the computer. Mine would flash black like it was going to change twice on boot-up. It happened right as the computer turned on for the BIOS splash screen and again right as windows would change the resolution to the native size. During those two times I could hear a popping noise and I got the feeling my monitor was bad.

dascth got the same error I did after he took his monitor apart and put it back together. I messaged him and this is what he told me solved his issue.
Quote:


> dascth: I thought I added a reply to the thread about what I did, but maybe not. All I did was dismantle it again, and make sure the PCB was firmly attached, and I think I moved the internal wires around a bit in case there was interference or shorts in the wires causing any issues. It was really just a "hail mary" last ditch effort, but it worked, and it's worked ever since then.


If you are willing to open up your monitor and check the PCB his fix might work. I didn't test this on my issue, but if it comes down to that or shipping it back to Korea, I would give it a shot. I hope this helps someone out and huge thanks to dascth for getting back with me about his solution.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Spartan you're probably the most knowledgeable guy for these monitors, can you help me with that HDCP issue?
> 
> It's showing that static screen as if I change the channel on a TV to an unbroadcasted station. This only happens when I watch HBO Go or bluray movies. This also only happens when I'm running over 60hz. I'm using CRU only. No pixel clock patch. Are you or anyone else having this problem watching content such as described? Is there any way around this without switching to 60hz? For HBO Go I'm able to turn of the monitor and the video buffers again and magically the monitor doesn't go to static anymore. It somehow bypasses it! Also when I turn on the monitor (trying to bypass the bluray) it doesn't work but I can still see the content for a second before it changes to static. So clearly it works fine at 120hz its just being a pain the butt.


Yes i have this issue and simply get around it by using my other PC for protected content. But i use the pixel patch. I am wondering what player, renderer, and codex you are using to display that content. With what you have told me it doesn't necessarily sound like an issue with the monitor but the de-interlacing process for the protected content from over a 60hz line refresh(especially since you are not using the patch).

Give me some more info on how you are playing/loading HBO go and blueray.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yes i have this issue and simply get around it by using my other PC for protected content. But i use the pixel patch. I am wondering what player, renderer, and codex you are using to display that content. With what you have told me it doesn't necessarily sound like an issue with the monitor but the de-interlacing process for the protected content from over a 60hz line refresh(especially since you are not using the patch).
> 
> Give me some more info on how you are playing/loading HBO go and blueray.


Using powerdvd 12 for the blurays (using this bluray disc reader: http://www.overclock.net/products/samsung-blu-ray-combo-internal-12xreadable-and-dvd-writable-drive-with-lightscribe-sh-b123l-bsbp) and using just a java based web player for HBO Go (streaming it). I hope its not the monitor but I mean it doesn't give me this crap when I have it at 60hz....


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I did save you a lot of time for posting it previously(i have actually posted it a total of 12 times here and other Qnix threads). I try and call it quites at 10+ reposts and start telling people to search for a specific term that will get them there pretty quick. I also don't mind if you send me a PM sending anyone reposts(for the sake of not overbloating the thread). Honestly if i reposted every time an issue like this came up the thread would be well over 2000+ pages.
> 
> I know it took you a little longer but i am sure you probably learned a few extra things along the way.


I tend to look at forums as a place to talk, discuss, to communicate in general and I'm doing that with this post as well sorry.
As for learning something extra I'm sad to say I did not, I tend to leap to conclusions with just thinking logically so the only thing I learned was the thing I asked about. (ofc I am wrong sometimes)
This is not the first time I oc something, this is not the first time I oc a monitor. This is just the first time I oc a non mainstream monitor and doing so with another one connected at the same time.

Funny thing is even though I like to ask all these questions I do tend to be the worst guy to ever try and explain what is wrong with stuff (whatever it may be), as I just focus on what I think I need to know and not what you need to know to actually be able to come up with a solution.

And I just want to end with this. I get where you're coming from.


----------



## bcooper21

Ok random question not really with this monitor. Would tape mod work with different monitors? asus vg248qe im getting gsync for it when i take it apart cant a simple tape method work to reduce bleeding or are ips and tn different.


----------



## lawson67

Can anyone tell me if theres anything special i have to do over and above the simple overclocking guide in the OP to overclock my Qnix monitor when it arrives using windows 8.1 Pro and the fact that i have 2 gtx600 in sli....also does SLI always need the patcher or only sometimes?...and any help with windows 8.1 or a guide would be much appreciated.


----------



## AlkaliV2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if theres anything special i have to do over and above the simple overclocking guide in the OP to overclock my Qnix monitor when it arrives using windows 8.1 Pro and the fact that i have 2 gtx600 in sli....also does SLI always need the patcher or only sometimes?...and any help with windows 8.1 or a guide would be much appreciated.


I personally used the NVIDIA control panel to overclock and just created custom resolutions with the overclocked settings. However, after reading through the thread I discovered you want to be near 460MHz with your timings and I got blue line artifacting when I used automatic timings with the control panel. A few pages back though I borrowed those timings and now my monitor is 120Hz with no blue lines and clocked at 461MHz. YMMV of course.


----------



## lightsout

It was just a joke.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> I.. Ehh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the...
> 
> 
> 
> Umm Isn't it not possible to overclock with the multi input?
Click to expand...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlkaliV2*
> 
> I personally used the NVIDIA control panel to overclock and just created custom resolutions with the overclocked settings. However, after reading through the thread I discovered you want to be near 460MHz with your timings and I got blue line artifacting when I used automatic timings with the control panel. A few pages back though I borrowed those timings and now my monitor is 120Hz with no blue lines and clocked at 461MHz. YMMV of course.


OH thanks for the reply but what timings are you referring too when you say i need to be at or near 460MHz with your timings?....and what does YMMV mean?....do you or does anyone know of a good guide on overclocking the qnix other then the OP which clearly does not mention timings....and also using these methods in windows 8 and any modifecations i may need to make becaurse of windows 8 would be great if someone could help with this also....reading 1230 pages of this forum here to find out what someone could tell me in 10 mins seem a little harsh lol...or maybe the OP could be updated?...it surly would make more sense to have all the updated information in the OP which would elimenate people asking the same questions to the OP 1230 times and frustrating the OP ...anyone that belives someone is going to read all 1230 pages of any thread after reading the OP and not finding the answers to there questions maybe a bit deluded.... i like reading but 1230 pages seems a bit over the top and totally unnecessary....thanks in advance


----------



## vladnik

Hey guys, just two quick qestions. I am planning to purchase 3x Qnix QX2710 single DVI-D interface for overclocking. I'm planning to use a Tri-SLI setup to feed the monitors. But I have only two DVI-D connections available. Now these are my questions:

1. If I were to purchase an active DP to dual link DVI-D adapter, would I still be able to overcklock the monitor connected to mentioned adapter?
2. Are there any known issues that arise while overcklocking multiple screens? (I know I have to patch the driver because of my SLI, but couldn't find any info on multiple monitors)

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Cheers,
~nik


----------



## AlkaliV2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> OH thanks for the reply but what timings are you referring too when you say i need to be at or near 460MHz with your timings?....and what does YMMV mean?....do you or does anyone know of a good guide on overclocking the qnix other then the OP which clearly does not mention timings....and also using these methods in windows 8 and any modifecations i may need to make becaurse of windows 8 would be great if someone could help with this also....reading 1230 pages of this forum here to find out what someone could tell me in 10 mins seem a little harsh lol...or maybe the OP could be updated?...it surly would make more sense to have all the updated information in the OP which would elimenate people asking the same questions to the OP 1230 times and frustrating the OP ...anyone that belives someone is going to read all 1230 pages of any thread after reading the OP and not finding the answers questions maybe a bit deluded.... i like reading but 1230 pages seems a bit over the top and totally unnecessary....thanks in advance


YMMV means "Your mileage may vary". Your grievances have merit, but the search feature is also an important and under-used tool. While the search tool in this thread is far from perfect because it really only shows the first sentence or two (which are often quotes from multiple users) it is important to use keywords to find what you are looking for. For example, when I searched this thread for 460MHz the third result was the same page that contains the picture of where I got my timings. There are several timings mentioned throughout the thread, but the one I used is http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12220#post_21554926 where in the picture if you look in the bottom left hand corner it shows the "pixel clock" and it is reading 459MHz with those custom timings. When I put those exact numbers into NVIDIA control panel my pixel clock was at 461MHz so again, your mileage may vary (YMMV).

I hope this answers your question and I don't expect you to read 1230 pages, but using in-thread search tool can help you nail down many results. Lots of which may be more applicable than what I showed you. Some of the monitors aren't even capable of reaching 120Hz so I don't feel like pixel clock timing of 460MHz would go in the OP considering it won't apply to everyone's monitor universally. It would probably lead to more confusion for the people who stumble to this post on Google and only read the intro paragraph and not the experiences of other users.


----------



## TinDaDragon

Hey guys,

My screen is flickering a lot lately when I'm playing Football Manager. Today it managed to show a screen with black and white stripes running down. I couldn't take a picture, but it was scary.

Any fix?

EDIT:

it looks like this


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlkaliV2*
> 
> YMMV means "Your mileage may vary". Your grievances have merit, but the search feature is also an important and under-used tool. While the search tool in this thread is far from perfect because it really only shows the first sentence or two (which are often quotes from multiple users) it is important to use keywords to find what you are looking for. For example, when I searched this thread for 460MHz the third result was the same page that contains the picture of where I got my timings. There are several timings mentioned throughout the thread, but the one I used is http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12220#post_21554926 where in the picture if you look in the bottom left hand corner it shows the "pixel clock" and it is reading 459MHz with those custom timings. When I put those exact numbers into NVIDIA control panel my pixel clock was at 461MHz so again, your mileage may vary (YMMV).
> 
> I hope this answers your question and I don't expect you to read 1230 pages, but using in-thread search tool can help you nail down many results. Lots of which may be more applicable than what I showed you. Some of the monitors aren't even capable of reaching 120Hz so I don't feel like pixel clock timing of 460MHz would go in the OP considering it won't apply to everyone's monitor universally. It would probably lead to more confusion for the people who stumble to this post on Google and only read the intro paragraph and not the experiences of other users.


Thank very much for your formative information AlkaliV2 and helping me understand a bit more about the overclocking process....
what programme is that guys using in that screen shot to show him the pixel mhz?....thanks for that link also....i did search the forum for windows 8.1 pro but it came up with my posts asking about it lol...and .not to much more info came up...however from other web sites i have been reading it looks like i need to turn off windows digital signed drivers protection or something.... i am working understanding how to do that or you have to keep resetting the drivers on a reboot.....also is it a must to use the patcher when using SLI?....also am i right in assuming that if you create a custom profile using only the NVIDIA control panel it does not apply the overclock in games...i am sure i heard this?


----------



## Nostras

Just gonna throw this in here.
Simple question, just to be sure.
I'm going to crossfire a 7970 Platinum Matrix and a 7970 Lightning BE.
The cable will be connected to the Matrix ( I don't really have a choice ).
Will the cards run fine in crossfire or will the lightning refuse to work well?
The lightning has no dual-link dvi out, I doubt it's related to crossfire capabilities, but you never know.

Bonus:
Will I run in problems placing the matrix in the second PCI-E slot and connecting the cable to that one as well?

Thx y'all


----------



## acalora

I'm about to pull the trigger on what will be my first 1440p monitor. I've confirmed I have the hardware to support it. But just for kicks, can someone here *convince* me not to buy this Korean monitor? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261370536843

I understand these are excellent for the price, however, I'm concerned about the dead pixels. Would the link above be a good extra premium to pay considering it guarantees no dead pixels? Or should I go with this one from green-sum: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6

For me, dead pixels are a bit of a pet peeve for me, but if it's as most say (being that I will hardly be able to ever see them unless I actively look for them) then I suppose I won't really bat an eye at one or two dead pixels.

As for backlight bleed, I've heard of a lot of fixes for this, and I've had my share of monitors posing minor backlight bleed and it has never been an issue. I'm just looking to get a 700-800 dollar monitor for about 300.

P.S.
Squaretrade warranty? Worth it? Or do the listings I have linked include sufficing warranties? Has anyone had any experience with stuck pixels (if so which listing/vendor/perfect or not did you buy from) or backlight bleed, or if anyone has ever had to deal with squaretrade, how was that as well?

Edit: I just want to clarify, I've done an awful lot of searching and googling. I'm just looking for confirmation about whether to get either of the two linked listings or not.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Question guys, I passed the OC test and it doesn't frame skip at 120hz, any ideas why it skips randomly when loading things and such?

not in gaming at all just in desktop mode


----------



## xNiNELiVES

New info about the HDCP. I cannot bypass the HBO Go HDCP after watching a bluray movie. Before when watching HBO Go I could just restart my monitor the buffering would reload for some odd reason and I could play it in 120hz. After the bluray I can't do this anymore... Even after quiting out of the HBO go content it would still turn my screen into static. I uninstalled my drivers on my video card and re installed them and I could bypass again. As soon as I loaded a bluray movie the same symptoms were reproduced.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> I tend to look at forums as a place to talk, discuss, to communicate in general and I'm doing that with this post as well sorry.
> As for learning something extra I'm sad to say I did not, I tend to leap to conclusions with just thinking logically so the only thing I learned was the thing I asked about. (ofc I am wrong sometimes)
> This is not the first time I oc something, this is not the first time I oc a monitor. This is just the first time I oc a non mainstream monitor and doing so with another one connected at the same time.
> 
> Funny thing is even though I like to ask all these questions I do tend to be the worst guy to ever try and explain what is wrong with stuff (whatever it may be), as I just focus on what I think I need to know and not what you need to know to actually be able to come up with a solution.
> 
> And I just want to end with this. I get where you're coming from.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcooper21*
> 
> Ok random question not really with this monitor. Would tape mod work with different monitors? asus vg248qe im getting gsync for it when i take it apart cant a simple tape method work to reduce bleeding or are ips and tn different.


It depends. The BLB on the Qnix is not really BLB, it is actually panel pressure from the cheap bezel. If you look closely at the Qnix BLB the color is very white or just a lightening/glow. Actual BLB is usually more of a yellow tint and is a defect in the actual panel NOT just pressure. This obviously cannot be fixed be relieving pressure as pressure is not the cause. Sorry but real BLB is mostly unfix able.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vladnik*
> 
> Hey guys, just two quick qestions. I am planning to purchase 3x Qnix QX2710 single DVI-D interface for overclocking. I'm planning to use a Tri-SLI setup to feed the monitors. But I have only two DVI-D connections available. Now these are my questions:
> 
> 1. If I were to purchase an active DP to dual link DVI-D adapter, would I still be able to overcklock the monitor connected to mentioned adapter?
> 2. Are there any known issues that arise while overcklocking multiple screens? (I know I have to patch the driver because of my SLI, but couldn't find any info on multiple monitors)
> 
> Thanks in advance for your replies.
> 
> Cheers,
> ~nik


1. DP has had a very low success rate with overclocking and i have actually not seen any positive reports of it working at all. Coming from one even after converting to DVI will likely be a no go.

2. YES, massive spending on GPU hardware.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acalora*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger on what will be my first 1440p monitor. I've confirmed I have the hardware to support it. But just for kicks, can someone here *convince* me not to buy this Korean monitor? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261370536843
> 
> I understand these are excellent for the price, however, I'm concerned about the dead pixels. Would the link above be a good extra premium to pay considering it guarantees no dead pixels? Or should I go with this one from green-sum: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> 
> For me, dead pixels are a bit of a pet peeve for me, but if it's as most say (being that I will hardly be able to ever see them unless I actively look for them) then I suppose I won't really bat an eye at one or two dead pixels.
> 
> As for backlight bleed, I've heard of a lot of fixes for this, and I've had my share of monitors posing minor backlight bleed and it has never been an issue. I'm just looking to get a 700-800 dollar monitor for about 300.
> 
> P.S.
> Squaretrade warranty? Worth it? Or do the listings I have linked include sufficing warranties? Has anyone had any experience with stuck pixels (if so which listing/vendor/perfect or not did you buy from) or backlight bleed, or if anyone has ever had to deal with squaretrade, how was that as well?
> 
> Edit: I just want to clarify, I've done an awful lot of searching and googling. I'm just looking for confirmation about whether to get either of the two linked listings or not.


Perfect pixel is a scam. It does nothing but earn the seller some more money of the off chance you get a perfect pixel.

The squaretrade warranty is definitely worth it. They have very good feedback. I have dealt with them myself and honestly they are a bit quick to give you a refund. I have used them twice and was refunded twice.

Also on a side note bigclothcraft is a very reputable seller. The only other seller that might be a bit better known for service is accessorieswhole.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Question guys, I passed the OC test and it doesn't frame skip at 120hz, any ideas why it skips randomly when loading things and such?
> 
> not in gaming at all just in desktop mode


Not enough information.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> New info about the HDCP. I cannot bypass the HBO Go HDCP after watching a bluray movie. Before when watching HBO Go I could just restart my monitor the buffering would reload for some odd reason and I could play it in 120hz. After the bluray I can't do this anymore... Even after quiting out of the HBO go content it would still turn my screen into static. I uninstalled my drivers on my video card and re installed them and I could bypass again. As soon as I loaded a bluray movie the same symptoms were reproduced.


All i can say is your protected content is jacking with your drivers. That is such a specific issue that honestly i would need to sit at your PC and tinker with for a while before even knowing where to start. There is so many things it could be, but i can tell you it is definitely not a problem with your monitor itself but a combination of the patch, higher refresh, lack of a scaler, etc.

Does it still crap out if you overclock slightly over 60hz with no modifications to the drivers at all? It is starting to sound like the media players you are using are not designed to even know there is a such thing as 60hz+ and it doesn't know how to cope.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Sorry, well I went to testufo and verified that im getting 120hz without frame dropping.

But sometimes randomly my mouse pointer will jump around as if the frame is skipping.
Not anything else, only my pointer and not during gaming.

Its more prominent when downloading things...

Makes NO sense to me.

Any ideas?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Sorry, well I went to testufo and verified that im getting 120hz without frame dropping.
> 
> But sometimes randomly my mouse pointer will jump around as if the frame is skipping.
> Not anything else, only my pointer and not during gaming.
> 
> Its more prominent when downloading things...
> 
> Makes NO sense to me.
> 
> Any ideas?


Definitely, try taking a look at your CPU load and possibly your hard drive usage rate. Getting chopped cursor movement can have several causes from the CPU being taxed, HDD loaded, windows system files being modified, etc. Heck it could be your antivirus or some other file accessing program doing all of the above. The cursor is a system utility that is generated from mouse DPI input, ran through several hardware interfaces, analyzed for DPI to PPI conversion, geographically mapped, rendered, and then echoed(visually modified). And i might have even missed some steps. If you got a positive result on the UFO test your good with the monitor. You might want to search cursor motion instability it is actually a very large topic in some forums/threads.

EDIT: Here in this tutorial there is not only many of the granularity of moose > cursor motion but also about a dozen things that could crap out the whole process:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1405271/regarding-mouse-optimization


----------



## acalora

Spartan, I've got to say you've been extremely helpful. Thank you very much, I will post updates when/if I receive the monitor. I think I'm leaning towards the bigclothcraft http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Panel-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/151011442822?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2328fbc086 and I will grab a ST warranty with it as well. So 365 shipped isn't bad. Should I go ahead and bite the bullet with this one?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acalora*
> 
> Spartan, I've got to say you've been extremely helpful. Thank you very much, I will post updates when/if I receive the monitor. I think I'm leaning towards the bigclothcraft http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Panel-Monitor-Matte-Screen-/151011442822?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2328fbc086 and I will grab a ST warranty with it as well. So 365 shipped isn't bad. Should I go ahead and bite the bullet with this one?


I own 4 Qnix monitors. The prices i payed were 325, 345, 360, and 365 so that is fine. There seemed to be a few deals and very low prices early in the release of these monitors but they are slowly going up in price(which will look familiar to many of us catleap 2B owners). I say get it while it is still a steal.









EDIT: The squaretrade warranty is included in the above figures.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> All i can say is your protected content is jacking with your drivers. That is such a specific issue that honestly i would need to sit at your PC and tinker with for a while before even knowing where to start. There is so many things it could be, but i can tell you it is definitely not a problem with your monitor itself but a combination of the patch, higher refresh, lack of a scaler, etc.
> 
> Does it still crap out if you overclock slightly over 60hz with no modifications to the drivers at all? It is starting to sound like the media players you are using are not designed to even know there is a such thing as 60hz+ and it doesn't know how to cope.


Ok I'll try that thanks. And again though I don't use that patch...


----------



## xNiNELiVES

BIG BIG BIG NEWS ABOUT THE HDCP

The HDCP crap I've been having Spartan, has been coming from a total pixel length (horizontal) of 2674. A horizontal pixel length 2673 will create the static I've been complaining about. Vertical total pixels on the other hand have nothing to do with the static. In fact the amount of front porch pixels doesn't matter either! And the greatest of all is that the refresh rate doesn't matter at all either. *Its all in the total horizontal pixels* that creates this unruly annoyance. So my pixel clock is only about 3.4 Mhz higher than what it used to be with my horizontal pixel length I used to use (that defies the parameters) of 2652... If there is a way around this that would be great but I believe that I don't have artifacting at this pixel clock so I should be fine...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> BIG BIG BIG NEWS ABOUT THE HDCP
> 
> The HDCP crap I've been having Spartan, has been coming from a total pixel length (horizontal) of 2674. A horizontal pixel length 2673 will create the static I've been complaining about. Vertical total pixels on the other hand have nothing to do with the static. In fact the amount of front porch pixels doesn't matter either! And the greatest of all is that the refresh rate doesn't matter at all either. *Its all in the total horizontal pixels* that creates this unruly annoyance. So my pixel clock is only about 3.4 Mhz higher than what it used to be with my horizontal pixel length I used to use (that defies the parameters) of 2652... If there is a way around this that would be great but I believe that I don't have artifacting at this pixel clock so I should be fine...


Glad you figured it out. The only time i have ever seen this elsewhere is with downsampling the Qnix. When downsampling increasing the horizontal pixels can slightly increase the overhead for your refresh rate at downsampled resolutions. I guess there could be some correlation between the renderer your couple HTPC apps are using and the active stability a few extra optical black pixels can create on a sampled resolution.

I might have to check but i thought you tried it at stock timings once at your overclocked refresh. If so i wonder why it didn't work then. What a pain in the commodore 64.


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Glad you figured it out. The only time i have ever seen this elsewhere is with downsampling the Qnix. When downsampling increasing the horizontal pixels can slightly increase the overhead for your refresh rate at downsampled resolutions. I guess there could be some correlation between the renderer your couple HTPC apps are using and the active stability a few extra optical black pixels can create on a sampled resolution.
> 
> I might have to check but i thought you tried it at stock timings once at your overclocked refresh. If so i wonder why it didn't work then. What a pain in the commodore 64.


No I never checked at different refresh rates with stock timings. I just went back to 60hz. I'm actually just going to stay at the timings I have now. I believe I won't get artifacts as I said before but it would be nice to try to lower the pixel clock because after a couple of hours watching movies or playing games I _might_ get some artifacting. I don't know if that 3.4 Mhz difference will make artifacting occur because at 459.8 Mhz my monitor is artifact free.

Anyways thanks for helping me. Without you telling me to mess around with my refresh rate I wouldn't have gone on and investigated with other variables.

+Rep (For multiple post of usefulness)


----------



## AlkaliV2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thank very much for your formative information AlkaliV2 and helping me understand a bit more about the overclocking process....
> what programme is that guys using in that screen shot to show him the pixel mhz?....thanks for that link also....i did search the forum for windows 8.1 pro but it came up with my posts asking about it lol...and .not to much more info came up...however from other web sites i have been reading it looks like i need to turn off windows digital signed drivers protection or something.... i am working understanding how to do that or you have to keep resetting the drivers on a reboot.....also is it a must to use the patcher when using SLI?....also am i right in assuming that if you create a custom profile using only the NVIDIA control panel it does not apply the overclock in games...i am sure i heard this?


I have no idea what program they are using, as I said I copied those numbers into the custom resolution settings under NVIDIA control panel. Have a look and you will see what custom resolutions allow for under the "Change Resolution" setting.

As for the rest of your questions, no clue. I don't have Windows 8 in any fashion or an SLI setup so someone will have to tag in or you will just have to search and hope it was answered somewhere in the thread.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Anyone know where were upto as far as Gsync compatibility goes? I get its not here yet but I'm noticing from pictures the Gsync PCB has connectors that look an awful lot like the one in the Qnix between the PCB and the panel, guessing its a universal standard between monitors?

Also non related but saw it a few posts up, anyone get downscaling working on these? I cant seem to get it to work on mine, had it working on a VG278H in the past just fine though. Whenever I do it now it just doesn't show up in game, even added through CRU.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Anyone know where were upto as far as Gsync compatibility goes? I get its not here yet but I'm noticing from pictures the Gsync PCB has connectors that look an awful lot like the one in the Qnix between the PCB and the panel, guessing its a universal standard between monitors?
> 
> Also non related but saw it a few posts up, anyone get downscaling working on these? I cant seem to get it to work on mine, had it working on a VG278H in the past just fine though. Whenever I do it now it just doesn't show up in game, even added through CRU.


I could be wrong but isn't he gsync only good for 60hz on at or above 1440p resolution? but if not it would def. be a worthwhile mod imo to add to the qnix still keeping the overall price way below what asus just released for 800 lol


----------



## lawson67

Hi guys I would like to run this by you all its what i think i must do to achieve a overclock from my new monitor from what i have read, and would like you point me in the right direction if i have not understood something correctly....
My system i have windows 8.1 running a i7-4770K and i have 2x Asus GTX 660 DIRECT cu OC running in SLI....ok from my understanding this is what i think i must do to overclock my monitor.

Firstly i MUST use the NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher because i am running in SLI and there is no exception to this rule if you are running SLI?
Secondly i can use the Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) to create custom resolutions and back up my original resolution and from this utility i can change my monitors refresh rate and save the new profile.....then reboot into windows and open up the NVIDIA control panel and pick the new Resolution which i have just made with CRU?...
Also i believe i don't need to use the test mode utility program any more?

Method 2 Patch the Drivers using "NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher"...this is a MUST due to the fact i am running SLI?....
Then purely use the NVIDIA control panel alone WITHOUT the use of (CRU) utility to create a custom resolution and simply up the refresh rate...test the new resolution with windows and if it tests ok job done....However using this method from what i have read i will then need the catleap.zip file to add and the inf file inside it to add a new "Generic PnP Monitormonitor driver" to make games use the higher refresh rate?....i achieve this by browsing to the catleap.inf from device manager and add this as the "Generic PnP Monitormonitor driver"?

I would like to ask if you could confirm the methods above or correct me if i have something wrong and therefore misunderstood some of the process.....
Also if i am right which would be the best method to try?
And also do i need to disenable windows 8.1 digital driver signing?....i have read some people have had trouble doing this process under windows 8 due to its digital driver signing?
Also would it be advisable for me to downgrade my drivers to NVIDIA 331.93 as i am running 332.21 right now?

Thanks in advance for any advice for any help


----------



## Ovrclck

catleap.zip 1k .zip file


----------



## vladnik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 1. DP has had a very low success rate with overclocking and i have actually not seen any positive reports of it working at all. Coming from one even after converting to DVI will likely be a no go.
> 
> 2. YES, massive spending on GPU hardware.


Thx for the reply Spartan. It's unfortunate that DP doesn't work but I was kinda expecting this. Have to look for another solution then. @SLI: Yeah, it IS a lot of money, but I have nothing else to spent it on (except going out for parties with the guys and gals, but you wouldn't spent 500 bucks on partying, right? ;P)

Cheers,
~nik


----------



## xNiNELiVES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi guys I would like to run this by you all its what i think i must do to achieve a overclock from my new monitor from what i have read, and would like you point me in the right direction if i have not understood something correctly....
> My system i have windows 8.1 running a i7-4770K and i have 2x Asus GTX 660 DIRECT cu OC running in SLI....ok from my understanding this is what i think i must do to overclock my monitor.
> 
> Firstly i MUST use the NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher because i am running in SLI and there is no exception to this rule if you are running SLI?
> Secondly i can use the Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) to create custom resolutions and back up my original resolution and from this utility i can change my monitors refresh rate and save the new profile.....then reboot into windows and open up the NVIDIA control panel and pick the new Resolution which i have just made with CRU?...
> Also i believe i don't need to use the test mode utility program any more?
> 
> Method 2 Patch the Drivers using "NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher"...this is a MUST due to the fact i am running SLI?....
> Then purely use the NVIDIA control panel alone WITHOUT the use of (CRU) utility to create a custom resolution and simply up the refresh rate...test the new resolution with windows and if it tests ok job done....However using this method from what i have read i will then need the catleap.zip file to add and the inf file inside it to add a new "Generic PnP Monitormonitor driver" to make games use the higher refresh rate?....i achieve this by browsing to the catleap.inf from device manager and add this as the "Generic PnP Monitormonitor driver"?
> 
> I would like to ask if you could confirm the methods above or correct me if i have something wrong and therefore misunderstood some of the process.....
> Also if i am right which would be the best method to try?
> And also do i need to disenable windows 8.1 digital driver signing?....i have read some people have had trouble doing this process under windows 8 due to its digital driver signing?
> Also would it be advisable for me to downgrade my drivers to NVIDIA 331.93 as i am running 332.21 right now?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice for any help


To clarify and nothing more: Yes you must use the patcher because you have SLI. Read the OP: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/0_30. The tutorial is called overclocking guide and help.


----------



## Tjorhunter

Hey,

Does anyone know what shipping method dream-seller usually uses? I'm asking because it has taken 4 days to get from Korea to Germany, and I live in the UK. I says he used FedEx International Economy but on the ebay page (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330935300132?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) it says that he'll use "Free express". Have I received the wrong service here? It even says on the tracking page that I won't receive the monitor for another 3 days. Really disappointed so far, it took 5 days for them to ship it and it seems like the shipping will take longer.

Cheers.


----------



## Pawkins

I ran some test screen on nvidia control and now it loops it whenevr I connect the monitor, resets and power down do nothing, please say I didn't just brick my Qnix?

Edit, still stuck in a looping colour test, may have to contact seller seems bricked. Any input would be appreciated.

Edit, wiped drivers and reinstall, who would have though it was Nvidias software and not the Koreans getting it wrong, can't wait for my r9 290 now.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNiNELiVES*
> 
> To clarify and nothing more: Yes you must use the patcher because you have SLI. Read the OP: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/0_30. The tutorial is called overclocking guide and help.


To clarify and nothing more:... That guide does NOT definitely say that you use must use the patcher if you have SLI .....its says and i quote...(Note: It is not necessary to do any patch. I would try without patching first)......... "The patch is more important for SLI card owners".....however this still does not mean apply or defiantly state that SLI users must use the patch!...in fact its very confusing which is why people ask questions in a forum...i suggest if all you can come back with is..... To clarify and nothing more: .....and then redirecting me to what i clearly have already read you don't even bother replying thanks.

Also i since my previous post i have learnt how out of date that guide is...maybe it should be updated and then people will not keep asking the same questions over and over again unless that is something you enjoy?...and the fact that you get some kind of kick out of saying... "To clarify and nothing more"... and therefore trying to frustrate people even further than they are by haveing to read an out of date OP....also maybe the thread would not be 1233 pages long?.....think about that before making stupid remarks...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> To clarify and nothing more:... That guide does NOT definitely say that you use must use the patcher if i have SLI .....its says and i quote...(Note: It is not necessary to do any patch. I would try without patching first)......... "The patch is more important for SLI card owners".....however this still does not mean apply or defiantly state that SLI users must use the patch!...in fact its very confusing which is why people ask questions in a forum...i suggest if all you can come back with is..... To clarify and nothing more: .....and then redirecting me to what i clearly have already read you don't even bother replying thanks.


Bashing members even when the answer does not necessarily help you will not get you help. We understand that this is a complicated process that does not have a 1,2,3 guide to guaranteed success. There is also a few grey areas that many members have not completely connected the dots on. The information is also held in several different places for specific details on specific points of the process. You really need to take a step back and relax.

Lets break down your post:

Your first question regarding using the pixel patch in SLI. Yes you must use the patch in most circumstances, the only reason the guide leaves it slightly open ended is because if you were using a 7xx series card in SLI at 96hz it is possible to get by without the patch because you will be under all the limitations that the patch is used for. You situation does not fit into this specific category therefor you will be using the patch.

Your second question regarding CRU. No you do not need "test mode" anymore, a bypass of the driver limitations for custom data rates has been integrated into the patch.

Your third question is actually a statement which is true. You must use the patch.

The statement about the catleap driver is a bit false. The catleap driver is only for the use of getting some stubborn or older applications to recognize the custom resolution. This is sort of making the NVCP be able to have free access to the EDID as everything(resolution wise) will be supported at the driver level. This however is not needed during testing at all and only should be used later on if you encounter apps not seeing the high refresh rates.

The process you listed behind using the driver is fine and you did mention its use for games which is also true but it is important to know that it is not initially needed(no bashing points for the sake of clarity please as it is the point of your entire post).

The best method is to use NVCP first to find usable stable timings and refresh rates for your panel, then save those settings to use in CRU later. This will essentially let you test in the windows UI and keep you from rebooting 80 times, then put the established timings into CRU to make them permanent, driver level, and hopefully detected by just about every application. So really it is a little of both methods. Overall it is best to know exactly what you are doing and then use all of the variables you have to achieve the best overclock which requires the methods you listed and several other factors in troubleshooting.

Windows 8.1 has been discussed in the ToastyX forum and it seems the consensus is that YMMV. Sometimes the driver signing is quite and doesn't act up and other times it causes issues. There has been members over there going both ways. I recommend leaving it alone until it causes issues. If it does then start over with it off(doesn't take long at all).

Regarding drivers. As long as your are on a stable build and not a beta you should not have any issues. The korean monitor's support was fixed by nvidia a few versions back.

Hope this help and clears some thing up.








Your third question is actually a statement and is actually ture


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Bashing members even when the answer does not necessarily help you will not get you help. We understand that this is a complicated process that does not have a 1,2,3 guide to guaranteed success. There is also a few grey areas that many members have not completely connected the dots on. The information is also held in several different places for specific details on specific points of the process. You really need to take a step back and relax.
> 
> Lets break down your post:
> 
> Your first question regarding using the pixel patch in SLI. Yes you must use the patch in most circumstances, the only reason the guide leaves it slightly open ended is because if you were using a 7xx series card in SLI at 96hz it is possible to get by without the patch because you will be under all the limitations that the patch is used for. You situation does not fit into this specific category therefor you will be using the patch.
> 
> Your second question regarding CRU. No you do not need "test mode" anymore, a bypass of the driver limitations for custom data rates has been integrated into the patch.
> 
> Your third question is actually a statement which is true. You must use the patch.
> 
> The statement about the catleap driver is a bit false. The catleap driver is only for the use of getting some stubborn or older applications to recognize the custom resolution. This is sort of making the NVCP be able to have free access to the EDID as everything(resolution wise) will be supported at the driver level. This however is not needed during testing at all and only should be used later on if you encounter apps not seeing the high refresh rates.
> 
> The process you listed behind using the driver is fine and you did mention its use for games which is also true but it is important to know that it is not initially needed(no bashing points for the sake of clarity please as it is the point of your entire post).
> 
> The best method is to use NVCP first to find usable stable timings and refresh rates for your panel, then save those settings to use in CRU later. This will essentially let you test in the windows UI and keep you from rebooting 80 times, then put the established timings into CRU to make them permanent, driver level, and hopefully detected by just about every application. So really it is a little of both methods. Overall it is best to know exactly what you are doing and then use all of the variables you have to achieve the best overclock which requires the methods you listed and several other factors in troubleshooting.
> 
> Windows 8.1 has been discussed in the ToastyX forum and it seems the consensus is that YMMV. Sometimes the driver signing is quite and doesn't act up and other times it causes issues. There has been members over there going both ways. I recommend leaving it alone until it causes issues. If it does then start over with it off(doesn't take long at all).
> 
> Regarding drivers. As long as your are on a stable build and not a beta you should not have any issues. The korean monitor's support was fixed by nvidia a few versions back.
> 
> Hope this help and clears some thing up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your third question is actually a statement and is actually ture


Spartan thank you very much for your informative and comprehensive reply you have answed just about everything i needed to know and i thank you...as for bashing points that's not my game....however to learn safely how to overclock my new monitor is....i believe i am a polite person however if bashed i am more than able and perfectly capable of bashing back!...thanks for your reply mate


----------



## TXTech

I bought a HP stand off ebay, for the HP ZR22w, which was recommended in this thread.

The problem I'm having is that the X-Star DP2710 is too heavy and the stand collapses under the weight. I thought I read that the stand was adjustable for weight, but I'm not seeing how to do it.

Does anyone have any ideas on the stand?


----------



## Higgy

Hi guys,

i have a new QX2710 with 0 dead pixel and mostly now backlight bleeding, but what i have are some light lines on the right side of the screen:


(The light areas are just from the crap camera they are not really visible)

I tried the "tape fix" to get rid of it, but it didn´t work!

Can anyone tell me how to fix this?


----------



## fouBelieve

Hi guys please help!
Just set up 2x monitors - 1 looks fine (colour isnt that great though, are they this bad stock colours?)
but one of them has a line on the side as seen in this photo: on every background its the same colours.

I took the stand off (opened it) do you guys think i placed it too far to the left side, causing the right side to show a non normal part of the monitor??
Or are these dead? The whole screen should be filled right?
Image:


http://imgur.com/CGqhgKb


EDIT: WOW lucky its gone away.. i restarted twice and it went away.. does anyone know why that would happen?

Also i have 1 redish dot on a black screen but dead pixel test says it shoudl be white.
its hardly visible on other colours, is this a dead pixel?
So hard to find dead pixels when im colour blind and its pretty hard to see LOL


----------



## Heidi

Guys...how to make custom resolutions and refresh rates on AMD cards...


----------



## fouBelieve

Also trying to overclock monitor, i downloaded CRU but stuck on how to copy the profile :O
Which is profile? The one that says DUAL DVI?
or 'Detailed resolutions'?
hmm, i tried to change the hz of active profile to 96hz but nothing changes after restart? Do I have to select this in AMD catalyst or something?
Hmm, i selected desktop management, properties, then 96hz in AMD but when I do the ufo test it still says 60hz

No idea >< also, is it true that if new AMD drivers come out, i have to 'uninstall' the drivers, 'install' the new ones, then do overclock again (from step 1?)
Do I have to reset overclock before uninstalling/installing new drivers?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> Guys...how to make custom resolutions and refresh rates on AMD cards...


Use CRU
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Also trying to overclock monitor, i downloaded CRU but stuck on how to copy the profile :O
> Which is profile? The one that says DUAL DVI?
> or 'Detailed resolutions'?
> hmm, i tried to change the hz of active profile to 96hz but nothing changes after restart? Do I have to select this in AMD catalyst or something?
> Hmm, i selected desktop management, properties, then 96hz in AMD but when I do the ufo test it still says 60hz
> 
> No idea >< also, is it true that if new AMD drivers come out, i have to 'uninstall' the drivers, 'install' the new ones, then do overclock again (from step 1?)
> Do I have to reset overclock before uninstalling/installing new drivers?


1. Read the documentation for CRU on how to copy profiles
2. The profile for your current active monitor will be the one with a * next to it. You can also cross reference the device ID with what shows up in your device manager
3. Mine has shown up as Dual DVI several times
4. Detailed resolutions is generally where you can enter new resolutions with custom timings or auto timings, again read the documentation.
5. if nothing changed then you very likely did not do it right.
6. Yes generally you have to apply the new refresh for it to work. When adding it into CRU your are simply adding it NOT applying it.
7. UFO test can be tricky to run properly. Make sure you do not have another screen active when running it. Also try moving your cursor around quickly and see if you notice a good deal more smoothness.
8. Yes each time you update drivers you will need to patch BUT your settings in CRU should remain as they are at the driver level. So install the new drivers, patch, and then apply the overclocked refresh rate that should laready be in the catalyst selection menu after patching.
9. NO your overclock is fine after establishing the best settings for you in CRU. You WILL have to reset or copy your monitor profile if you switch ports where it is connected since it will register as a new logical device thus not being connected to your previously setup resolutions in CRU.

Hopefully this gets you in the right direction but i do recommend doing some searching and reading more on this before starting again. You had a lot of very common questions that have been covered in great detail in the thread many times.


----------



## NekOnOkO

Joining the party. Qnix matte version. Received from accesorieswhole. 0 dead or stuck pixels, howver backlight bleeding is severe even for me (and i never paid much attention to such things).


----------



## fouBelieve

Hi spartan, thanks for the help.
I tried adding/copy/paste etc and it didnt work :/
So I just edited my active resolution to 120hz, restarted, then set it in amd catalyst and now it works on ufo test









Ok, so if a new driver comes out, update > patch > reselect 120hz profile
Do i actually have to 'uninstall' the amd drivers though because i heard they have trouble if yuo dont completely uninstall?

Thanks

oh i also tried to just put one monitor at 60hz to test separately if it works, but it came up with the werid colours so i guess they both have to be at the same hz!

damn i get green lines on one monitor







96hz it is then


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Hi spartan, thanks for the help.
> I tried adding/copy/paste etc and it didnt work :/
> So I just edited my active resolution to 120hz, restarted, then set it in amd catalyst and now it works on ufo test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, so if a new driver comes out, update > patch > reselect 120hz profile
> Do i actually have to 'uninstall' the amd drivers though because i heard they have trouble if yuo dont completely uninstall?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> oh i also tried to just put one monitor at 60hz to test separately if it works, but it came up with the werid colours so i guess they both have to be at the same hz!
> 
> damn i get green lines on one monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 96hz it is then


The copy paste doesn't work for me much either. I generally just take a screenshot of my settings and then re-enter them.
Generally it is better to do a clean install of your drivers but that is up to you. I have seen it work both ways but a clean install of the video drivers is generally the safest bet.


----------



## taafe

Can someone recommend a desent stand for the quix 27" please? I ordered one from ebay but they have just messaged me saying that they having shipment problems and i need a new stand asap!! Would appreciate sending me a link.


----------



## Sempre

http://www.amazon.com/HP-LA961AA-ZR22W-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00HES611S/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1389633053&sr=1-1&keywords=HP+ZR22W+Monitor+Stand

I personally like this but i dont know if it is strong enough for 27". I think there are members here who bought this, if you look through the posts here you may find some one who got it and ask them.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Can someone recommend a desent stand for the quix 27" please? I ordered one from ebay but they have just messaged me saying that they having shipment problems and i need a new stand asap!! Would appreciate sending me a link. I will rep for your efforts thank you


Monoprice 5970 Adjustable Tilt stand is sturdy and is only around 20 bucks. I have one on my Qnix currently. I cannot provide a direct link(my work block monoprice for whatever reason) but if you google monoprice 5970 it is one of the first links.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/HP-LA961AA-ZR22W-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00HES611S/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1389633053&sr=1-1&keywords=HP+ZR22W+Monitor+Stand
> 
> I personally like this but i dont know if it is strong enough for 27". I think there are members here who bought this, if you look through the posts here you may find some one who got it and ask them.


I bought one. A few users are rocking this stand. Mine is being delivered today.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## lawson67

I have just mailed accesorieswhole and asked him if this mount will fit ?...he replied it does fit!.....as he sell this mount and he is shipping my new QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel 27"...If it fits i will buy it....i know its not the cheapest but i like it....it goes up and down and tilts full screen rotate etc.....made for 27 "- 30" monitors VESA 100 x 100...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111164926510&fromMakeTrack=true



I bought this i really like it!...will be a nice finishing touch.


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/HP-LA961AA-ZR22W-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00HES611S/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1389633053&sr=1-1&keywords=HP+ZR22W+Monitor+Stand
> 
> I personally like this but i dont know if it is strong enough for 27". I think there are members here who bought this, if you look through the posts here you may find some one who got it and ask them.


Just ordered it of ebay £30 delivered i will update with pics once mounted. Cheers +1


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Monoprice 5970 Adjustable Tilt stand is sturdy and is only around 20 bucks. I have one on my Qnix currently. I cannot provide a direct link(my work block monoprice for whatever reason) but if you google monoprice 5970 it is one of the first links.


I do like this stand but couldnt get it cheap in uk. Was shipped from the US with loads of charges. Thanks though +1


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NekOnOkO*
> 
> Joining the party. Qnix matte version. Received from accesorieswhole. 0 dead or stuck pixels, howver backlight bleeding is severe even for me (and i never paid much attention to such things).


Yeah well you never paid attention surely because there was nothing to pay attention to in this regard before; this is pretty horrid bleed and impossible *not* to notice. However you are already probably aware such can often be fixed and I think I have more good news--these bleed spots looks like the internal frame on it's bottom section is bent or at least way too tight against the panel *and you can probably well relieve that tightness by simply removing the screws on the bottom of the bezel*. They do not need to be in for it to stay together even if you move the thing around from room to room.


----------



## taafe

Anybody used spyder 4 pro to calibrate the qnix? Im prob the only person in this thread rocking the colours straight from box.. anyway i cant tell what looks good because to me it does look good so just ordered the spyder 4 to get the screen to the right colours


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Well there are other ICCs you can try in OP and at TFTCentral.com. The average owner here probably doesn't tweak or calibrate the color at all frankly and most certainly do not actually have their own calibrator. Fortunately the stock color is not bad per se, but oh yes it can be improved.

It is important to install the ICC correctly; there are a couple important and totally unintuitive things you need to do to make sure Windows is properly and fully making the adjustments per the profile. There is an ICC Install Guide also at TFTCentral.

Edit:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#install


----------



## taafe

Would a calibrator be good though? I dont understand the icc profile plus i can never tell if it looks good or not so i guess i will just have to trust the spyder 4 pro and hopefully it makes things better.. maybe we'll see


----------



## NekOnOkO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah well you never paid attention surely because there was nothing to pay attention to in this regard before; this is pretty horrid bleed and impossible *not* to notice. However you are already probably aware such can often be fixed and I think I have more good news--these bleed spots looks like the internal frame on it's bottom section is bent or at least way too tight against the panel *and you can probably well relieve that tightness by simply removing the screws on the bottom of the bezel*. They do not need to be in for it to stay together even if you move the thing around from room to room.


Yeah, thank you. Gonna dissasemble the whole thing today and try to figure out how to fix it. To me it also looks like the metal frame is just bent.


----------



## fouBelieve

Such a bummer only 1 monitor cant OC to 120hz as i get scan lines, I dont have any other cables to use, not sure if i should buy a new one.. kinda based on luck lol

Also, does it harm the GPU in any way or harm the PC or monitors to run 1x monitor @ 120hz, and another @ 96hz?

My monitor seems to keep resetting when i restart, both seem to reset back to 60hz, any ideas?
Wow, ive restarted 20~ times, sometimes it works and stays at 120hz,96hz, sometimes it goes to 60hz for both.. all i keep doing is restarting and not changing anything. How weird..
When I set teh refresh rate in AMD catalyst control center, maybe 30 secs later, the screens flash and they both go back to 60hz ><

edit; trying all day no idea whats wrong, going to uninstall AMD drivers and reinstall
what i did first was unpatch > uninstall , reinstall amd driver > patch > CRU
but when i opened CRU, the old resolutions were there, h ow do i reset everything to do with CRU?


----------



## TXTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/HP-LA961AA-ZR22W-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00HES611S/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1389633053&sr=1-1&keywords=HP+ZR22W+Monitor+Stand
> 
> I personally like this but i dont know if it is strong enough for 27". I think there are members here who bought this, if you look through the posts here you may find some one who got it and ask them.


I bought that stand and it's not strong enough. It is pretty solidly built and I really want to like it, but the monitor is too heavy and it won't stay in any position other than all the way down.

Can't see any way to adjust it to make up for the weight.


----------



## Rhiyo

I got the QNIX monitor, no dead pixels and barely any light bleeding. I only have one issue that is sorta of ignorable... but can be a bit irritating when I notice it. I seem to have light bleeding in the form of hazy horizontal lines coming from the left of the screen and fading out around the centre. It's only noticeable when the screen is showing something dark. Is this a type of light bleeding? Is there anyway to fix this? I've tried looking it up and all I could find about it was line bleeding in plasma TVs.

I'll try to get a picture of it and post it here tomorrow after a good nights sleep.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TXTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/HP-LA961AA-ZR22W-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00HES611S/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1389633053&sr=1-1&keywords=HP+ZR22W+Monitor+Stand
> 
> I personally like this but i dont know if it is strong enough for 27". I think there are members here who bought this, if you look through the posts here you may find some one who got it and ask them.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought that stand and it's not strong enough. It is pretty solidly built and I really want to like it, but the monitor is too heavy and it won't stay in any position other than all the way down.
> 
> Can't see any way to adjust it to make up for the weight.
Click to expand...

mine came in yesterday,sucks about the weight. Oh well, either way it'll work for me as I'm building an extra shelf at eye level for my desk. Thanks man.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Nostras

My monitor is due to arrive...
In 2 weeks.









But, well, my 7970 Platinum came with the post today, so I got that going for me.


----------



## NekOnOkO

So, after 3 hours of fighting blb i think i almost won. First tried electic tape mod, as suggested - no result. The metal frame of the panel inside indeed is bent, fixed it quickly by applying brute force xD. However, it appeared that the panel itself is bent too. After some testing it has been figured out that in order to reduce blb, force should be applied simultaneously to the front and to the back of the panel. On the "mad-paint-skillz" pictute below *1* indicates the place where it should be pushed from the front and *2* is where it should be pushed from behind.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






This turned out to be tricky and i've spent some time trying to figure out how to apply pressure from the rear. The best solution i came to has been piece of rolled rubber base of an old mouse pad







, which has been inserted to spot 2 between the rear plastic cover of the monitor and the metal frame. The other piece of the same mouse pad has been applied to spot *1* between the bezel and the metal frame inside the panel (it's very thick actually and looks ugly







, but it serves its purpose).
And the result:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Totally worth it, IMO. Now Qnix is enjoayble. Also, it overcklocks to 120Hz with no issues at all.
P.S. No pictures of the fixing process - was too concentrated







.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

@NekOnOkO

Best effort so far! Great Job and Rep+!


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> mine came in yesterday,sucks about the weight. Oh well, either way it'll work for me as I'm building an extra shelf at eye level for my desk. Thanks man.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi guys i just ordered my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel 27" 2560x1440
> Ordered from Ebay seller "accessorieswhole" ...if anyone has had dealing with him buying yours i hope all went well?....i paid a bit extra for Perfect Pixel and i now have to learn how to overclock it so when it comes i am up to speed with that......i cant wait for it to arrive i have 2 gtx 660 in sli and an overclocked i7-4770k and i am hoping it will run games overclocked at native resolution....


I have been using the Dell monitor mounts for my Qnix 2710 and they work very well. There are two that I can confirm work 100% correctly. Here is the trick, if you are picking a stand form another manufacturer Google the monitor associated with that stand to see how much it weighs. All manufacturers post this info so people can set up there VESA mounts properly.

1. Dell u2410 monitor stand;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Model-U2410F-24-Base-LCD-Monitor-Stand-/231133366091?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item35d09f474b



2. Dell 2407wfp stand

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-STAND-FOR-MODEL-2407WFPB-/181078404919?pt=US_TV_Boards_Parts_Components&hash=item2a291d2f37



As I mentioned ina previous post ( http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/11630#post_21452437 ) you need to switch the proprietary dell bracket to the dell VESA mount sold here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DELL-VESA-PLATE-MOUNTING-KIT-for-E-Series-Flat-Panel-Monitor-Stand-17-24-/181299096503?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2a3644abb7

Looks like this

You may have to drill out the guide holes on the VESA mount to get the alignment pins to seat properly but its very easy, take 5 mins.

Drill here 

To match these guide pins on the mount


----------



## Stige

Wth are these vertical lines I have on the screen? Noticed them a few days ago and they are pretty annoying.

Also pretty horrid BLB so hopefully fix that tomorrow.


----------



## taafe

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251373534814?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Love this stand! Fits perfect and zero modding and questions ask away


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Wth are these vertical lines I have on the screen? Noticed them a few days ago and they are pretty annoying.
> 
> Also pretty horrid BLB so hopefully fix that tomorrow.


How do you do a blb test? How do you get a total black screen? Sorry for the stupid question but i cant find it in this thred.


----------



## NekOnOkO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> How do you do a blb test? How do you get a total black screen? Sorry for the stupid question but i cant find it in this thred.


http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php

Just choose "black" and switch the browser to fullscreen mode (F11 in most browsers, i think).


----------



## taafe

Thank you sir. +1 rep


----------



## acalora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NekOnOkO*
> 
> So, after 3 hours of fighting blb i think i almost won. First tried electic tape mod, as suggested - no result. The metal frame of the panel inside indeed is bent, fixed it quickly by applying brute force xD. However, it appeared that the panel itself is bent too. After some testing it has been figured out that in order to reduce blb, force should be applied simultaneously to the front and to the back of the panel. On the "mad-paint-skillz" pictute below *1* indicates the place where it should be pushed from the front and *2* is where it should be pushed from behind.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This turned out to be tricky and i've spent some time trying to figure out how to apply pressure from the rear. The best solution i came to has been piece of rolled rubber base of an old mouse pad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , which has been inserted to spot 2 between the rear plastic cover of the monitor and the metal frame. The other piece of the same mouse pad has been applied to spot *1* between the bezel and the metal frame inside the panel (it's very thick actually and looks ugly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it serves its purpose).
> And the result:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Totally worth it, IMO. Now Qnix is enjoayble. Also, it overcklocks to 120Hz with no issues at all.
> P.S. No pictures of the fixing process - was too concentrated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Damn, dude. That's fantastic! How did you end up figuring out where to apply the pressure to get rid of the blb?


----------



## NekOnOkO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acalora*
> 
> Damn, dude. That's fantastic! How did you end up figuring out where to apply the pressure to get rid of the blb?


Removed the bezel, plugged the monitor in, turned the lights off, turned the black screen pattern on and tried every combination of pushing (and even pulling) possible







. One worked.


----------



## uio77

Do you guys think there is a way to install the Nvidia Gsync module to one of this panels.? That will be sublime ..


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Would a calibrator be good though? I dont understand the icc profile plus i can never tell if it looks good or not so i guess i will just have to trust the spyder 4 pro and hopefully it makes things better.. maybe we'll see


Yes your own calibrator generally always ideal as you are making the ICC on your specific system and takes into account factors such as ambient light in your space. But not all devices/procedures produce awesome results to the eye (calibration is more about _accuracy_ of color) and you can get nearly the same from someone else's ICC if it's the "right" one.

You say you don't understand ICCs and "can't tell" if they are making a difference ever at all then they must not be installed and activated right. Again check that guide I linked. There is a specific checkbox in the Color Management control panel to make sure does gamma adjustments properly too-- "Let Windows use Custom Display Cal" or something like that but the way you get to that not greyed out is a few steps that you won't figure out on your own. As soon as I did that any ICC I selected in the panel immediately caused a huge change. Some very nice improvement in vibrancy and general IQ.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acalora*
> 
> Damn, dude. That's fantastic! How did you end up figuring out where to apply the pressure to get rid of the blb?


Yes man nice work.


----------



## spiritfly

Finally received my two monitors. I ordered one X-Star matte from dreamseller and one Qnix glossy from e-goliath. Both are just marvelous!! No dead pixels no bleeding. The Qnix has very very minor, totally unnoticeable bleeding on the top left. My reaction may be late to this thread, but I'm really amazed! I have no clue on what to test these two right now, but so far I tested them on pictures and some youtube 4k videos. They look GREATT!!!!









As to overclocking, I managed to clock the X-star max to 96Hz. At 110 it started flickering a little and at 120hz green lines and spots appeared. I will try to overclock it with the shorter DVI cable as someone suggested here. If anyone else has any quick suggestions please let me know.

The Qnix overclocks to 120Hz without any issues.

I run them on a single Sapphire Radeon HD7870 GHz edition 2GB. It has only one DVI-D though, but one 120Hz does it for me at least for now







I only wish that the X-Star matte was the one overclockable to 120Hz instead of the Qnix. Oh well..

As already mentioned many times before, they are EXACTLY the same in physical appearance. But the colors are not. I'm not sure whether it's because of the glossy/matte difference or not, but the glossy Qnix has a little more red color and the X-Star is a bit more blueish. The qnix seems slightly darker too. I overclocked them in a matter of minutes (thanks to the beautiful guide here) but I have no clue what to do with the colors and how to set them up. Haven't tried anything yet, but I don't even know where to begin. It will be a struggle I suppose.

Overall I'm VERY satisfied with the order and I will order one of these again for another rig.

The only thing I'm disappointed is that I unintentionally ordered the glossy version of the Qnix. I was very excited while buying and I ordered both monitors the same late night. When they arrived I thought that it was the seller's mistake lol. I was very angry at him at first, but then I saw my ebay order better and I quickly became angry at myself. Fortunately I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the displays at the same time and didn't punch myself.

Ok, you can finally add me to the list of this group now







..Back to setting up the color profiles.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uio77*
> 
> Do you guys think there is a way to install the Nvidia Gsync module to one of this panels.? That will be sublime ..


No. Search gsync in the thread for my explanation why.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NekOnOkO*
> 
> Removed the bezel, plugged the monitor in, turned the lights off, turned the black screen pattern on and tried every combination of pushing (and even pulling) possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . One worked.


What seller did you buy that monitor from so I can avoid them, lol? Thanks and awesome job fixing it! It makes me feel a whole lot better about dropping $300 on one of these knowing I can now fix it if need be!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Monoprice 5970 Adjustable Tilt stand is sturdy and is only around 20 bucks. I have one on my Qnix currently. I cannot provide a direct link(my work block monoprice for whatever reason) but if you google monoprice 5970 it is one of the first links.
> 
> 
> 
> I do like this stand but couldnt get it cheap in uk. Was shipped from the US with loads of charges. Thanks though +1
Click to expand...

This probably doesn't matter now but you can get it for 12 quid from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1389738452&sr=8-2&keywords=monoprice+monitor


----------



## xartion

*EDIT:* The AMD driver patcher was incompatible with the new driver, so ToastyX has released an update that fixes the problem: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-New-AMD-13-30-BETA-Driver-incompatible-with-Patcher-CRU?pid=1842#pid1842 - Now I'm back at 120hz on 13.30 beta drivers


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xartion*
> 
> Apparently the new AMD Catalyst 13.30 BETA driver (released today, but dated Jan 8 2014) doesn't work properly with CRU, so you can't set custom resolutions, thus no 120hz or other custom refresh rates. Well at least this is the case on my system, even after properly uninstalling with DDU and reinstalling several times. Confirmation from anyone else who has tried would be great


Try rolling back your drivers. If that fixes it than it would be very obviously the drivers. It wouldn't be the first time a driver update broke one of the less known features people use. I wouldn't be surprised if AMD(not focusing on monitor overclocking) inadvertently broke CRU compatibility. They broke downsampling a while back, hopefully(unlike downsampling) they fix it.


----------



## xartion

oops, double post


----------



## xartion

*EDIT:* The AMD driver patcher was incompatible with the new driver, so ToastyX has released an update that fixes the problem: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-New-AMD-13-30-BETA-Driver-incompatible-with-Patcher-CRU?pid=1842#pid1842 - Now I'm back at 120hz on 13.30 beta drivers









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Try rolling back your drivers. If that fixes it than it would be very obviously the drivers. It wouldn't be the first time a driver update broke one of the less known features people use. I wouldn't be surprised if AMD(not focusing on monitor overclocking) inadvertently broke CRU compatibility. They broke downsampling a while back, hopefully(unlike downsampling) they fix it.


----------



## NekOnOkO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> What seller did you buy that monitor from so I can avoid them, lol? Thanks and awesome job fixing it! It makes me feel a whole lot better about dropping $300 on one of these knowing I can now fix it if need be!


Seller is accesorieswhole. Tbh, i don't think its their fault, all Korean monitor sellers on E-bay don't count blb as a defect.


----------



## Kold

I've messaged some of the sellers on eBay and asked if I can pay a little extra for one with minimal blb. I'll let y'all know if I get any responses.


----------



## bigsnyder

Some of the pixel perfect options include better blb testing vs non-pixel perfect. Just check descriptions carefully.


----------



## Kold

Is this the same monitor as the Qnix and X-Stars?

Raean Tech TR-270

For some reason the ebay link doesn't want to work, but it looks identical and the seller is offering perfect pixel for $299.99. He also told me he'd be willing to take a picture of the monitor with an all black screen so I can decide if I want to buy it.


----------



## Kold

Dream Seller just responded to my question about getting one with zero issues. He basically says that you can pay more on top of the perfect pixel one to get it without back light bleed as well. Pretty sweet.

"Dear Kold,

Hello,

Thank you for your message.
I have been having many inquires regarding the pixel perfect products.
Even though most of our buyers are satisfied especially with Perfect Pixel Xstar DP2710,
I still have some of the buyers pay for extra quality check.
There are two field test ran on these monitors.
One at the manufacturer, and one when we receive.
As mentioned in the pixel policy, there might be 0-2 dead pixels (mostly not visible)
and slight back light bleeding depending on the angle you are viewing.
If the dead pixel and the back light bleeding falls under the guaranteed amount they are cleared to be shipped.
If you would like to make sure of the qulity for NO DEAD PIXEL AND VERY MINIMUM BACK LIGHT BLEEDING,
the extra quality check charge can be paid.
Usually the extra quality check charge are voluntary from our buyers, but guaranteed that we triple check the monitor thoroughly for extra quality check.
If you would like that option please let me know








Thank you!"


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Dream Seller just responded to my question about getting one with zero issues. He basically says that you can pay more on top of the perfect pixel one to get it without back light bleed as well. Pretty sweet.
> 
> "Dear Kold,
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Thank you for your message.
> I have been having many inquires regarding the pixel perfect products.
> Even though most of our buyers are satisfied especially with Perfect Pixel Xstar DP2710,
> I still have some of the buyers pay for extra quality check.
> There are two field test ran on these monitors.
> One at the manufacturer, and one when we receive.
> As mentioned in the pixel policy, there might be 0-2 dead pixels (mostly not visible)
> and slight back light bleeding depending on the angle you are viewing.
> If the dead pixel and the back light bleeding falls under the guaranteed amount they are cleared to be shipped.
> If you would like to make sure of the qulity for NO DEAD PIXEL AND VERY MINIMUM BACK LIGHT BLEEDING,
> the extra quality check charge can be paid.
> Usually the extra quality check charge are voluntary from our buyers, but guaranteed that we triple check the monitor thoroughly for extra quality check.
> If you would like that option please let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!"


So how much extra does it cost ?


----------



## Kold

I'm waiting to find out right now. Peace of mine is key for me, so even if he wants $50, that's fine. I just won't go over $400, though. I want to save money for the SquareTrade warranty as well.


----------



## maka12

dreamseller was great with me , bought 2 pixel perfect off him zero dead pixels zero back light bleed very happy with them.


----------



## bigsnyder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Is this the same monitor as the Qnix and X-Stars?
> 
> Raean Tech TR-270
> 
> For some reason the ebay link doesn't want to work, but it looks identical and the seller is offering perfect pixel for $299.99. He also told me he'd be willing to take a picture of the monitor with an all black screen so I can decide if I want to buy it.


Possibly, but the HDMI mentioned in the listing title makes me wonder.


----------



## jacqg

Hello guys, can any of you recommend a good mount for the qnix monitor that I can use with a plastic table like this?



Thanks!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The monoprice stand seems to be pretty good and well recommended.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xartion*
> 
> *EDIT:* The AMD driver patcher was incompatible with the new driver, so ToastyX has released an update that fixes the problem: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-New-AMD-13-30-BETA-Driver-incompatible-with-Patcher-CRU?pid=1842#pid1842 - Now I'm back at 120hz on 13.30 beta drivers


That is what i thought. AMD has all but ignored refresh rate overclocking. They seem to break some level of compatibility with each driver update. This is big props for ToastyX because if not for his hard work it may not be possible for AMD members to overclock. Glad you found a solution so quickly.


----------



## Virum

Got mine a few days ago.

1 pixel that appears to be stuck green but I cant seem to unstick it. No noticeable back light bleed.

I did not like default colors but dascth 120 Hz, 120cd/m2 brightness (12 "clicks" up from min brightness), matte monitor ICC looks very nice. I prefer 18 clicks though.

Was only able to get to 96Hz OC. Anything higher became choppy.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Virum*
> 
> Got mine a few days ago.
> 
> 1 pixel that appears to be stuck green but I cant seem to unstick it. No noticeable back light bleed.
> 
> I did not like default colors but dascth 120 Hz, 120cd/m2 brightness (12 "clicks" up from min brightness), matte monitor ICC looks very nice. I prefer 18 clicks though.
> 
> Was only able to get to 96Hz OC. Anything higher became choppy.


Did you buy the Pixel Perfect option?


----------



## Virum

No, I did not.

1 Pixel doesn't bother me. I knew my chances when i bought


----------



## thebufenator

Well I got my Xstar. Shipped 13 Jan from Korea, arrived at my house 14 Jan.

WOW.

Pixels look good, but I do have one spot of blb on the lower left. For people who have done the tape fix, how long does it take? Not sure if I will do it now or wait till it annoys me.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Wth are these vertical lines I have on the screen? Noticed them a few days ago and they are pretty annoying.
> 
> Also pretty horrid BLB so hopefully fix that tomorrow.


Just quoting myself hoping for clues if this is a serious issue as I haven't seen anyone else with similiar lines yet, should I ask for warranty?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Just quoting myself hoping for clues if this is a serious issue as I haven't seen anyone else with similiar lines yet, should I ask for warranty?


That looks like direct panel pressure in one area. The pressure squeezing the panel internal bezel appears to be causing a ripple in the metal frame. This ripple effects of high pressure causing the BLB to have a vertical expanding line like bleed. I would ask if you tried the BLB fix yet? If you have not i would try it, if it doesn't relieve the lines along with the BLB then go for a warranty replacement as the internal panel metal frame is too warped for recovery. If it does work then you are good and the pressure relief gave enough give on the panel layers to release any rippling.


----------



## hammelgammler

Hello community,

I bought two QNIX a couple months ago and just wanted to know how i can fix the backlight bleeding, or if theres no hope.
On the second monitor i applied the tape mod already. I took the metal frame of the panel itself of and wrapped one layer of electrical tape around it. Maybe that is not enough?
Also i read about that the metal frame is not perfectly flat, so that it has something like a curve and that at some points it is pressed to hard on the panel. Could that be a reason?

Here are two pictures of the monitors:

The Monitor with minor bleeding:


Here the second monitor before the tape mod:


And here the second after the tape mod:


As you can see, the bleeding on top of the panel was slightly reduced, but at the bottom its now more than before.

Maybe you can give some reasons what could be the reason for that backlight bleeding.

If someone ask, i bought them from red-cap with the perfect pixel option.


----------



## Thax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Maybe you can give some reasons what could be the reason for that backlight bleeding.


Maybe the whole Monitor is bend a little bit on the bottom. What happens if you grap the Monitor at the bottom dark area (grap the bezel) and then pull the bottom sides just a little bit to you?


----------



## Ovrclck

Mine looks bent just like in these photos. Check out his fix. Not sure if this works with the tempered glass versions.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/8160#post_20996871


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thax*
> 
> Maybe the whole Monitor is bend a little bit on the bottom. What happens if you grap the Monitor at the bottom dark area (grap the bezel) and then pull the bottom sides just a little bit to you?


I will try this in a few minutes. Does i have to put the plastic bezel of and grab the metal frame or is that not relevant?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Mine looks bent just like in these photos. Check out his fix. Not sure if this works with the tempered glass versions.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/8160#post_20996871


Thats looks nice, i will check if my panel has also such a curve. Maybe this will fix the bleeding.
I have the matte version of the monitor, the tempered glass version is the glossy one arent it?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I will try this in a few minutes. Does i have to put the plastic bezel of and grab the metal frame or is that not relevant?
> Thats looks nice, i will check if my panel has also such a curve. Maybe this will fix the bleeding.
> I have the matte version of the monitor, the tempered glass version is the glossy one arent it?


tempered is their "alleged" glossy hah. Basically glass with matte film below.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> tempered is their "alleged" glossy hah. Basically glass with matte film below.


Ah okay thank you. I will try this out over the weekend.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

I don't even really notice my bleed anymore. I did lessen with the screw removal on bottom though.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> I don't even really notice my bleed anymore. I did lessen with the screw removal on bottom though.


You only released the four screws at the back of the monitor?


----------



## play2lose

DSCN4541.JPG 3983k .JPG file


Does anyone know what these spots are? These 2 are basically in the center of my screen. I have about 8 others around the rest of the monitor too. I thought it was dust under the glass (I got the tempered glass) but I just removed the glass panel today and no luck...they're either under the matte cover or they're something weird with the pixels. I actually have 2 dead pixels at the top left of the monitor and those just look like very tiny black dots on white pages, they're actually the size of a pixel. But if you look at these weird grey spots zoomed in they're like 5 pixels wide.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *play2lose*
> 
> DSCN4541.JPG 3983k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what these spots are? These 2 are basically in the center of my screen. I have about 8 others around the rest of the monitor too. I thought it was dust under the glass (I got the tempered glass) but I just removed the glass panel today and no luck...they're either under the matte cover or they're something weird with the pixels. I actually have 2 dead pixels at the top left of the monitor and those just look like very tiny black dots on white pages, they're actually the size of a pixel. But if you look at these weird grey spots zoomed in they're like 5 pixels wide.


That is dust under the glass. If you remove the tempered glass you can clean them off, but be careful because it is very easy to end up with more dust than you started with.


----------



## play2lose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> That is dust under the glass. If you remove the tempered glass you can clean them off, but be careful because it is very easy to end up with more dust than you started with.


Well like I said I took the glass off... (I hated the reflections and wanted it off anyway) these pictures are AFTER I took the glass off, it's matte now. maybe they're scratches on the matte part or something?


----------



## M Diddy

Hey guys.

Quick question. Pickup a Qnix this week from Green-Sum. Great panel. No dead pixel, and very minimal BLB. I've gone through and applied an OC to 96 Hrz, and it seems like everything is gravy, but I'm just wondering if there's a way for me verify the screen is running at 96 hrz. Some type of program or something.

Anyone know of anyway to check this?

Thanks!


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Check first page.


----------



## Udd3n

Me and my brother bought a Qnix QX2710 each and we are both very pleased with it and got two monitors with minimal BLB and no dead pixels from Storewithstory but the thing is we both get really tired in the eyes of these screens? We have tried both 60, 96 and 120Hz and have tried maxing brightness(on screen and lowering in nvidia cp), could it just be the difference between 24 and 27 inches? I get like dizzy and I even went and checked my eyes and my sight is totally perfect so its not that.. Any suggestions? Could it just take some time to get used to it? We both had 24 inches TN before.


----------



## NekOnOkO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Udd3n*
> 
> Me and my brother bought a Qnix QX2710 each and we are both very pleased with it and got two monitors with minimal BLB and no dead pixels from Storewithstory but the thing is we both get really tired in the eyes of these screens? We have tried both 60, 96 and 120Hz and have tried maxing brightness(on screen and lowering in nvidia cp), could it just be the difference between 24 and 27 inches? I get like dizzy and I even went and checked my eyes and my sight is totally perfect so its not that.. Any suggestions? Could it just take some time to get used to it? We both had 24 inches TN before.


According to most reviews, Qnix doesn't have backlight PWM that can cause eyes discomfort. However, according to some other reviews it has PWM of 160Hz, which is horribly low and can be the source of your troubles.


----------



## dascth

Holy frak, there's 1200 pages in here now! I don't want to sound like an old fart, but I remember when this thread started. Ah, those heady days of wanton monitor ravaging... I came on to catch up on what people are saying; I guess I can't really go back and read it all, hah!


----------



## Kold

I was considering the glossy version.. that just means they add some glass in front of the matte version? That's it?


----------



## voncreme

Just got my QNIX from bigclothcraft. Are these horizontal lines backlight bleed or indicative of another problem? They cover the whole first "third" section of the monitor, with the middle and right side being perfect. Would the blacklight bleed do anything or should I try to send it back?
When I apply some pressure and bend it from the back, the lines seem to lessen. Also viewing it from a different angle seems to make the lines go away.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voncreme*
> 
> Just got my QNIX from bigclothcraft. Are these horizontal lines backlight bleed or indicative of another problem? They cover the whole first "third" section of the monitor, with the middle and right side being perfect. Would the blacklight bleed do anything or should I try to send it back?
> When I apply some pressure and bend it from the back, the lines seem to lessen. Also viewing it from a different angle seems to make the lines go away.


The mere fact that you can apply pressure to the panel and the lines "lessen" is evidence that the lines could be all but eliminated by the BLB fix to relieve pressure. I would try the bezel adjustment first and see if you can fix it then send it back. The angles are just an optical effect of the last top layer of the panel shielding the ripple effect. I had a chat with someone a couple pages back regarding the exact same issue. Unfortunately he never posted back.

Overall anyone with seemingly pressure related issues should attempt the BLB fix before considering an RMA. It is very much worth it to try a simple 30 minute repair before dealing with korean returns or even squaretrade.


----------



## voncreme

Thanks for the quick reply Spartan. I'm going to give the bezel adjustment following the video tutorial at the beginning of this thread and then get back and let you know how it goes. I've had backlight bleed before, but never in this way. Thanks!


----------



## raistlinx37

Is this what everyone means when they talk about back light Bleed?

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/105155543916972465375/albums/5969504429950154049/5969504428964302978

Is it enough to warrant trying to tape trick/will it even work on the tempered glass version of my new x-star?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raistlinx37*
> 
> Is this what everyone means when they talk about back light Bleed?
> 
> https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/105155543916972465375/albums/5969504429950154049/5969504428964302978
> 
> Is it enough to warrant trying to tape trick/will it even work on the tempered glass version of my new x-star?


One of my Qnix monitors is very similar to that and i wouldn't pull it apart to try a tape mod on it. The tape mod is when it is noticeable, distracting and uncomfortable for the user. I would say it is not that bad to warrant attempting to fix but in the end it is up to you. If it doesn't bother you during gaming, movies or general browsing then i wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## raistlinx37

Thank you, I had not really noticed it yet but i was going to be opening up to remove the stand nub so was not sure if it was worthwhile while I was inside.


----------



## hammelgammler

Well i have bought a new Dual Link DVI cable, which is shorter then the stock cable. (1.5m)
Now i can overclock to 120Hz, but only when i take the option "LCD reduced" in CRU.

Some users post manual settings to receive stable 120Hz, my question is what is better to use.
Manual timings or the LCD reduced mode?

And what are the side effects of that mode?

Thank you.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Well i have bought a new Dual Link DVI cable, which is shorter then the stock cable. (1.5m)
> Now i can overclock to 120Hz, but only when i take the option "LCD reduced" in CRU.
> 
> Some users post manual settings to receive stable 120Hz, my question is what is better to use.
> Manual timings or the LCD reduced mode?
> 
> And what are the side effects of that mode?
> 
> Thank you.


First off, LCD reduced is just a lower set of well known custom timings. You are in a way already using "custom timings". The better timings to use is the ones that best stabilize your screen. This will increase picture quality, refresh performance and potentially increase lifespan a bit by putting less of an overclock onto the PCB.

The effects of running at lower timings are generally mostly positive in the fact that they decrease adverse effects of overclocking(uniformity, gamma shift, banding). The one negative side effect of using custom timings is that the VRAM of your graphics card is not able to idle down fully when non standard timings are in use(LCD reduced generally has this issue as well making this a mute argument unless you use LCD standard). This means your GPU will sit in a P1 power state instead of idling at P0 thus increasing the GPU and VRAM temps an average of 5-10 degrees.

The 5-10 degree bump in GPU temp is not going to hurt anything and is a good trade off for the potential benefits. Most GPUs are rated for such high temps that it shouldn't cause any excessive lasting effects unlike the potential issues with running such a high overclock on the monitor PCB(which is rated for 450mhz). But it is definitely good to be aware of this when checking GPU temps when overclocking.

Also when i run standard timings my max stable overclock is 122hz. With custom timings i can hit 153hz(with a good deal of gamma shift). Any higher with stock or custom timings i get the infamous green shooting lines. I optimized my timings and now sit at a very stable 120hz(very little gamma shift about +0.11, good uniformity, no banding at all even on grey). The only trade off is that my GPU runs at 40 degrees idle instead of 34 degrees idle.


----------



## raistlinx37

What settings are you running at 120 Hz


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raistlinx37*
> 
> What settings are you running at 120 Hz


I am not going to give you my custom timings, as they don't work for many other members. If you really want them search back in the thread and find them as i already posted them twice, searching "front porch" will get you them pretty quick,

But i will say that the most common, working, lowest, stable timings for the Qnix/Xstar is having a total pixel count of 2652x1444 equaling 459mhz. Now this timings set does have a slightly off blanking period but does seem to work the best. The next best timings for total pixels is 2652x1449 equaling 461mhz which will have an exact blanking period and just a slightly higher pixel clock. The rest of the settings can be kept at "LCD reduced" timings set.

So you can apply the LCD reduced profile, then switch to manual and simply change the total pixel count. The rest of the settings can be tweaked more but in the end provide little change in performance to a point of not really being worth messing with. Setting the options(can't remember which ones they are, i am at work) that default to "3" and "5" both to 1 can have a slight decrease in banding if you are still getting some even at the vastly reduced timings. If you have no banding on greyish colors then i wouldn't change them(can effect blurring slightly).

Lastly setting your polarity to both positive can help in multi monitor setups. If you are getting a sort of screen jumping or moving this can fix it.


----------



## hammelgammler

@Spartan F8

Do you use the stock cable or a shorter one?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> @Spartan F8
> 
> Do you use the stock cable or a shorter one?


I use an old cable i found in a box at work. The cable is barely 3 foot long and is 28AWG. I posted quite detailed cabling research back in the thread, if you want that post PM me and i will send it to you(don't want to bloat the thread with reposting a book of info, i tested the better part of 50 cables).

Bottom line is thickness doesn't matter so much, the biggest factor is length. The shorter cable the better as frequency degradation is a concern when you are pushing the limits of data rate on a DVI cable. I also very much advise against spending a lot of money for a so called high quality cable. Also get severa; to test with as every cable is slightly different quality.


----------



## Udd3n

Does this mean I dont have PWM on my screen?


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I use an old cable i found in a box at work. The cable is barely 3 foot long and is 28AWG. I posted quite detailed cabling research back in the thread, if you want that post PM me and i will send it to you(don't want to bloat the thread with reposting a book of info, i tested the better part of 50 cables).
> 
> Bottom line is thickness doesn't matter so much, the biggest factor is length. The shorter cable the better as frequency degradation is a concern when you are pushing the limits of data rate on a DVI cable. I also very much advise against spending a lot of money for a so called high quality cable. Also get severa; to test with as every cable is slightly different quality.


Ah okay, 3 foot and 28AWG damn. I bought a 1 meter (~3 foot) and a 1.5 meter (~5 foot). With the 1.5m cable i get 120hz (havent tried any higher) with lcd reduced settings.
Maybe i get even highter refresh rates with the 1 meter cable. All cables are less thicker than the stock cable.

Is it true, that you get a higher refresh rate with nvidia cards than with amd? I use a 7950.

Thanks.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Ah okay, 3 foot and 28AWG damn. I bought a 1 meter (~3 foot) and a 1.5 meter (~5 foot). With the 1.5m cable i get 120hz (havent tried any higher) with lcd reduced settings.
> Maybe i get even highter refresh rates with the 1 meter cable. All cables are less thicker than the stock cable.
> 
> Is it true, that you get a higher refresh rate with nvidia cards than with amd? I use a 7950.
> 
> Thanks.


For the majority yes, nvidia cards tend to overclock higher. However this is not anything against the hardware but likely more towards the drivers. Nvidia has embraced monitor refresh rate overclocking, downsampling and other forms of display overdrive. AMD hasn't marketed or optimized towards any of these items. It is safe to say they have all but ignored(as i have said in previous comments) these technologies.

This is shown by the overclock compatibility being broken after just about every driver update from AMD. With nvidia focusing on these items it stands to reason there would be some better performance. If AMD ever jumped on this topic and put some effort towards it(or at least stopped breaking it) then they may overclock better or possibly the same(as it would be limited to the panel in a universal optimized environment).

Not to long ago AMD made downsampling all but impossible(can still painfully be hacked to work) on their cards and then never even commented on the new lack of compatibility. Overclocking would have already suffered the same fate by AMD if it wasn't for ToastyX working consistently on updates to his patch.

So yes nvidia overclocks better than AMD for refresh rate, and it IS AMD's fault. And doesn't look to improve any time soon.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> For the majority yes, nvidia cards tend to overclock higher. However this is not anything against the hardware but likely more towards the drivers. Nvidia has embraced monitor refresh rate overclocking, downsampling and other forms of display overdrive. AMD hasn't marketed or optimized towards any of these items. It is safe to say they have all but ignored(as i have said in previous comments) these technologies.
> 
> This is shown by the overclock compatibility being broken after just about every driver update from AMD. With nvidia focusing on these items it stands to reason there would be some better performance. If AMD ever jumped on this topic and put some effort towards it(or at least stopped breaking it) then they may overclock better or possibly the same(as it would be limited to the panel in a universal optimized environment).
> 
> Not to long ago AMD made downsampling all but impossible(can still painfully be hacked to work) on their cards and then never even commented on the new lack of compatibility. Overclocking would have already suffered the same fate by AMD if it wasn't for ToastyX working consistently on updates to his patch.
> 
> So yes nvidia overclocks better than AMD for refresh rate, and it IS AMD's fault. And doesn't look to improve any time soon.


In a couple of weeks i want to buy a new GPU. So would you suggest to buy a Nvidia?
The advantage of AMD in this term is, that they perform better at high resolutions. And the R9 290 is very good for the price. A 780ti would cost around 50% more than a R9 290, but i don't know if its worth to buy it.


----------



## lawson67

Can someone help me please....in cru i deleted all the resolutions from the top box...now when it boots to the desktop i just get funny lines and cant see any thing...... i am typing this on my old monitor...i cant belive a have blown up my monitor i must of just messed up windows for that monitor...how do i rest windows like it was first time i plugged in my new monitor in...please help me....worried thank

have i deleted with cru the resolution that in installed inside the monitor...if there is one....have i blown it up?....when i pluging pc now its fine untill it boots to desktop so i cant of blown it up please help


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> In a couple of weeks i want to buy a new GPU. So would you suggest to buy a Nvidia?
> The advantage of AMD in this term is, that they perform better at high resolutions. And the R9 290 is very good for the price. A 780ti would cost around 50% more than a R9 290, but i don't know if its worth to buy it.


For me it is worth it, but that is not the opinion of many. The price savings is considerable. The straight equal graphics performance is formidable against higher priced nvidia cards of some of the same performance. It comes down to a preference and the overall use of your card.

For me i play a lot of older games, watch movies, overclock, downsample, graphics design, web design, etc. The versatility of nvidia wins me over every time. Just the sheer aggravation of getting AMD drivers to do all i want them to is worth it to me. After all the driver patches and hacks it makes any driver update a mess.

Now i know many will argue these points. Yes there are ways to get a lot of these items to work but as a person that re-installs many times during testing and projects, i don't want an entire day dedicated to GPU setup for my usage.

Bottom line if all you are doing is gaming and some simple other tasks you just cannot even come close to beating AMD for the money and performance. But if you have quite a wide scope of tasks that you do on a regular basis it can pay off to have nvidia. For example having nvidia saves me about 2 hours of driver setup for all my uses PER INSTALL. If i multiply all the different times i need to re-setup my video drivers and settings the times saved gets pretty excessive. I guess it is about how much i value my time.

Now i am not knocking AMD on performance or price. They honestly do take the cake in that regard, but for this threads primary premise "overclocking" nvidia is better, same for downsampling. Also for the record for anyone not doing the granularity of tasks i do and will mostly just be gaming i DO recommend AMD GPUs.

Hope this helps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Can someone help me please....in cru i deleted all the resolutions from the top box...now when it boots to the desktop i just get funny lines and cant see any thing...... i am typing this on my old monitor...i cant belive a have blown up my monitor i must of just messed up windows for that monitor...how do i rest windows like it was first time i plugged in my new monitor in...please help me....worried thank


Connect the Qnix to a different port and then boot. Also if needed boot with another monitor and connect the Qnix AFTER getting a desktop. This will reset the EDID entries as it will read as a new or different monitor.


----------



## lawson67

OH thank you so much spartan u fixed it for me...i put it in another port and now it works......i deleted them all becaurse i was getting into a mess trying to make my 120hz profile...i can make one in NCP just fine and it tests fine on ufo website....so of course now i want to make one with CRU so it works in games...but the one i make in cru is never seen when i boot into windows its not seen in NVP....where does cru save my profiles in windows cos i dont find them....i am also using the extension block toastyx gave me and add that so i can still use nvida experience...do you think this is thee reason they are not staying or i am not seeing them in NCP when i reboot?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> OH thank you so much spartan u fixed it for me...i put it in another port and now it works......i deleted them all becaurse i was getting into a mess trying to make my 120hz profile...i can make one in NCP just fine and it tests fine on ufo website....so of course now i want to make one with CRU so it works in games...but the one i make in cru is never seen when i boot into windows its not seen in NVP....where does cru save my profiles in windows cos i dont find them....i am also using the extension block toastyx gave me and add that so i can still use nvida experience...do you think this is thee reason they are not staying or i am not seeing them in NCP when i reboot?


CRU directly modifies the EDID so the profile is stored in your monitor driver. It sounds to me like your not entering the settings into the correct monitor set. The monitor name you are modifying should have a * next to its name indicating that it is an active display. The other entries are other installed monitors in your system that are not in use. If you switched your Qnix to another port it technically is a new display to your system and will thus create another entry into the profiles you see in CRU.

Try reading a bit over the documentation for CRU for a bit more detail but as long as you enter the new refresh rates for the correct logical monitor then you should see them and be fine.

Glad you got your picture back. Anytime you lose picture at boot this fix will work but will reset CRU settings as your monitor will be a new "logical" monitor.


----------



## robinaish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *play2lose*
> 
> DSCN4541.JPG 3983k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what these spots are? These 2 are basically in the center of my screen. I have about 8 others around the rest of the monitor too. I thought it was dust under the glass (I got the tempered glass) but I just removed the glass panel today and no luck...they're either under the matte cover or they're something weird with the pixels. I actually have 2 dead pixels at the top left of the monitor and those just look like very tiny black dots on white pages, they're actually the size of a pixel. But if you look at these weird grey spots zoomed in they're like 5 pixels wide.


I don't know what these are but iI have the same: two spots in the center + two bad pixels (qnix matte)


----------



## lawson67

Its ok Spartan i worked it out now....my resolutions where there all the time its just i was looking for other entry's in NCP other than native ... however all i had to do was stay on the native one and change the HZ downwards flipper to 120hz or select the 96hz.....there were all there hiding lol.....anyhow this monitor was bought from Ebay seller "accessorieswhole" and i paid extra for pixel perfect...weather that is a rip off and its just luck that you get i good one i dont know,

however i can say there is 0 black-light bleed on this monitor and there is not one dead pixel.....it over clocks to 120hz with ease and passes the ufo test and the other test i have thrown at it with ease!

I am very happy with my buy!....beautiful colours and a lovely screen running sweet at 120hz...what more could you ask for?

BTW Spartan if i plug my monitor into that same port on my graphics card that i deleted the profiles from in CRU its still a load of fuzzy lines.....is there anything i can do about that?


----------



## zerocool135

My qnix panel is slightly mis-aligned and the bottom gets slightly cut off. Now there is no back light bleed to speak of, so will taking the case off to adjust the panel cause any BLB to occur or do i only need to worry about that if the metal frame comes off, Thanks in advance.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Its ok Spartan i worked it out now....my resolutions where there all the time its just i was looking for other entry's in NCP other than native ... however all i had to do was stay on the native one and change the HZ downwards flipper to 120hz or select the 96hz.....there were all there hiding lol.....anyhow this monitor was bought from Ebay seller "accessorieswhole" and i paid extra for pixel perfect...weather that is a rip off and its just luck that you get i good one i dont know,
> 
> however i can say there is 0 black-light bleed on this monitor and there is not one dead pixel.....it over clocks to 120hz with ease and passes the ufo test and the other test i have thrown at it with ease!
> 
> I am very happy with my buy!....beautiful colours and a lovely screen running sweet at 120hz...what more could you ask for?
> 
> BTW Spartan if i plug my monitor into that same port on my graphics card that i deleted the profiles from in CRU its still a load of fuzzy lines.....is there anything i can do about that?


You would need to delete the old logical monitor or driver associated with it from your devices. I believe CRU has a way of doing this but i don't remember how off hand. I will take a look at it once i get home from work. The one way i have always done it, is boot into safe mode, go to the device manager, open up monitors and displays, and blow away all the old driver sets. Then when you boot back up normally it will install new monitor drivers for each of your currently connected monitors. After this you will notice that CRU will only have your two currently connected monitors in the drop down section and all older logical entries are gone. Then i just put back in my timings and be on my marry way not having a bloated monitor driver entries. This also will default any memory of that port or monitors on that port thus fixing your issue.

There is a lot of ways to remove logical components from the device manager but this is the way i do it. There is likely freeware out there that would help you do it even easier but this will work.


----------



## Virum

My GTX780 comes in today. Anything special I need to do when changing GPU's to retain my OC? Do I need to redo the patch + CRU?

Thanks.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Virum*
> 
> My GTX780 comes in today. Anything special I need to do when changing GPU's to retain my OC? Do I need to redo the patch + CRU?
> 
> Thanks.


You are going to have to start from scratch for the most part. The EDID will be cleared due to it being a new monitor. The drivers will need to be re-installed and re-patched because it is a completely different card. I would take several screenshots of all the settings you have right now before the swap and then re-enter everything. Even moving the same card from one PCIe port to another logically reinstalls it making you re-patch and redo CRU.


----------



## lawson67

Yes Spartan i really need to find a way of deleting all my monior drivers and start again...it now thinks my native resalution is 1920x1440 and it seems to keep switching from monitor name to monitor name....i dont really understand what you want me to do safe mode or device manager...but i know i need to install all of the and start fresh...its just finding out how and me knowing what you mean lol.......i wonder if you would kindly help me when you get home...i have windows 8.1...thanks mate


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes Spartan i really need to find a way of deleting all my monior drivers and start again...it now thinks my native resalution is 1920x1440 and it seems to keep switching from monitor name to monitor name....i dont really understand what you want me to do safe mode or device manager...but i know i need to install all of the and start fresh...its just finding out how and me knowing what you mean lol.......i wonder if you would kindly help me when you get home...i have windows 8.1...thanks mate


Would this work? http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/display_driver_uninstaller_download.html


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes Spartan i really need to find a way of deleting all my monior drivers and start again...it now thinks my native resalution is 1920x1440 and it seems to keep switching from monitor name to monitor name....i dont really understand what you want me to do safe mode or device manager...but i know i need to install all of the and start fresh...its just finding out how and me knowing what you mean lol.......i wonder if you would kindly help me when you get home...i have windows 8.1...thanks mate


Follow this guide to be able to see all your non present device driver entries without going into safemode.

http://www.petri.co.il/removing-old-drivers-from-vista-and-windows7.htm

After doing this open up your "monitors" section in the device manager and remove/un-install all of them. then reboot to a fresh start.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Would this work? http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/display_driver_uninstaller_download.html


This is more focused on GPU drivers and not monitor drivers. Plus it is quite the brute force attack. There is a lot of members in this thread that seem to have trouble distinguishing that there is actually 3-4 drivers involved in our monitor's display process.


----------



## lawson67

Thanks for replying Spartan what i did was to follow this guide....."ill put link below".....and i did not do it in safe mode.... i deleted EVERY single monitor driver that was in there.. " there was at least 4-5 of the same named monitor drivers in there!"........i deleted them all including the one i was currently using and rebooted...so far seems to of done the trick....however i am to scared to try it back in the dedicated DVI-D port....right now it is in the DVI-D/DVI-I" ....port....this should be ok right?

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/remove-old-drivers-after-upgrading-to-new-hardware/

Anyhow as for the monitor itself it is just fantastic and it does 120hz so well i was thinking of seeing if i could get it to go to 144hz....also the colours are great at 120hz with NCX ICC Profile .. 2.2 Gamma 6500k colour temperature ...Qnix REC.709 120hz ICC Profile.....Btw is it ok to run it 24/7 @120hz?





120hzQnix.zip 16k .zip file


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks for replying Spartan what i did was to follow this guide....."ill put link below".....and i did not do it in safe mode.... i deleted EVERY single monitor driver that was in there.. " there was at least 4-5 of the same named monitor drivers in there!"........i deleted them all including the one i was currently using and rebooted...so far seems to of done the trick....however i am to scared to try it back in the dedicated DVI-D port....right now it is in the DVI-D/DVI-I" ....port....this should be ok right?
> 
> http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/remove-old-drivers-after-upgrading-to-new-hardware/
> 
> Anyhow as for the monitor itself it just fantastic it and does 120hz so well i was thinking of seeing if i could get it to go to 144hz....also the colours are great at 120hz with NCX ICC Profile .. 2.2 Gamma 6500k colour temperature ...Qnix REC.709 120hz ICC Profile.....Btw is it ok to run it 24/7 @120hz?
> 
> 120hzQnix.zip 16k .zip file


You can leave it where it is, it isn't going to hurt anything. Sometimes different ports getting better performance anyway. You can also move it back, this also wont hurt anything and with the logical driver blown away it should load up fine(but will create a new duplicate again).

I have been using mine at 120hz 24/7 since i got it. Just have a good screen timeout(like less than an hour for image retention) or a good screen saver. If you ever get image retention then just put a solid white or black image on the screen for 10-20 minutes and it will go away every time.


----------



## ideaidea

Guys, this is ubelivable!







I just wanna say how greatfull I am to this forum for letting me know of these screens! I got Qnix today and OC'd it to 110Hz. (120Hz shows artifacts on desktop







) This is a HUGE step away from FHD 60Hz TN that I had for the last 6 years, and that for $400! Games look crispy and smooth. This is just unbelivable!
Waiting for Maxwell and 120Hz 4K IPS


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> You can leave it where it is, it isn't going to hurt anything. Sometimes different ports getting better performance anyway. You can also move it back, this also wont hurt anything and with the logical driver blown away it should load up fine(but will create a new duplicate again).
> 
> I have been using mine at 120hz 24/7 since i got it. Just have a good screen timeout(like less than an hour for image retention) or a good screen saver. If you ever get image retention then just put a solid white or black image on the screen for 10-20 minutes and it will go away every time.


Nice one i will leave my at 120hz as well then sounds great to me...and thanks for the advice if i ever get image retention....i just am blow away with the smoothness @ 120hz and colours of this monitor...its just fantastic...if NCX had of managed to of got his to 144hz and had of made an ICC profile for that i would of pushed further just for kicks...however more than happy with 120hz and Metro last light looks just amazing playing it at native resolution with 60+ FPS

As For the port ill take your advice and leave it right where it is....once again that you so much for your time and help Spartan with everything and i don't know what i would of done without you answering earlier so promptly when i messed up those monitor drivers!....for a second i thought i had blown it up!...your a good guy Spartan keep up the good work mate







..

BTW i am using this from NCX website a great little tool if anyone wants it?...Use Color Profile Keeper to force games to use ICC profiles....This tool allows to apply and try to lock your video card gamma ramps to keep monitors calibration even while running or quitting 3D fullscreen applications such as video games...Good for using an ICC 120hz profile

Edit: Some games like Metro last light dont like Profile Keeper forcing it to take desktop ICC profile and artefact and you have to exit Profile Keeper then the game runs perfect again.....i will just run it once i have finished a game to make sure my ICC profile has been correctly reloaded....which it was without the use of Profile Keeper after metro last light...so maybe i wont use it any more....worth keeping though might come in handy for something.

Edit again: It seems that ICC profiles do not get loaded on a reboot even if they are set to default!...so using this to start with windows applys your 120hz ICC profile every time you re-start... it also it has an option to minimize to systray on start...so i will keep it and turn it off before gaming and restart after gaming....A handy tool after all.

cpk_05.zip 3555k .zip file


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Hey everyone. Between the qnix and xstar, I'm leaning towards the xstar from dream seller. Does anyone have any other models to recommend or sellers to buy from? Is IPSLEDMonitors.com worth it for the extra $50?

Also, does the r9 290 have the required ports to use this monitor?


----------



## Virum

Okay, new GPU arived. Drivers installed and OC patched.

120hz caused my monitors to turn gray with a fee lighter gray boxes. I didn't have this happen with my old GPU (560ti), just stuttering.

110Hz seems stable.

Any idea what causes the gray b;locky screen at 120Hz?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey guys is there a way to get this Monitor working on my AMD Radeon HD 7870?


----------



## Virum

Okay not my display developed a mad flicker effect. Im not sure what happened now.

Edit:

Okay I plugged it in to the other port. Still flickered. I unplugged it and let the other monitor boot into windows. I then plugged in my QNIX and it went away.

120Hz works fine when my QNIX is the only monitor plugged in. As soon as i plug in my second monitor it turned into a big gray screen with lighter gray boxes. 96Hz works fine.


----------



## bmgjet

Looking at selling my 2 7970s and buying 2 290x and still having change. This is the last deciding factory.
What do you do about cross fire bridges since you need to use to of them to overclock stable past 86hz on my screen and as some people have mentioned.


----------



## fouBelieve

Does anyone know why every time I reboot, it resets back to 60hz? Running r9 290 with AMD Catalyst Control Center (latest driver)

Were the posts on the previous page for uninstalling MONITOR drivers in device manager to reset all the CRU resolutions? Do I have to remove ALL old monitor drivers? What about the current one? Do I also remove all graphic drivers or just the monitor ones?
I want to reset it back to default, I tried reinstalling the GRAPHIC card driers but it didn't work









Thanks in advance.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fouBelieve*
> 
> Does anyone know why every time I reboot, it resets back to 60hz? Running r9 290 with AMD Catalyst Control Center (latest driver)
> 
> Were the posts on the previous page for uninstalling MONITOR drivers in device manager to reset all the CRU resolutions? Do I have to remove ALL old monitor drivers? What about the current one? Do I also remove all graphic drivers or just the monitor ones?
> I want to reset it back to default, I tried reinstalling the GRAPHIC card driers but it didn't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Hi yes it sounds like you have conflicting monitor drivers in device manager...some maybe even have the same name and or older monitor drivers present also...it seems if this is the case windows can pick one at random when it loads therefore you lose your settings and things can get into a right old mess....what you need to do is follow the link i will provide below and this will show all monitor drivers in device manager past and present..

Follow the instructions it involves using a command prompt.... " i personally would advise running your CMD as administrator"...and when you get to the part where you have brought up device manager unplus the monitors folder in device manager and delete\uninstall all drivers in there you see...also the one you are currently using all of them so there is not one driver left in the monitor folder in device manager..."don't worry the screen wont go black"....then reboot and windows will write a new monitor driver and then you have only one monitor driver and windows will not get confused any more and your issues should be sorted...

Edit: you will also need to make new resolutions with CRU after you have done this for the new monitor driver windows will create upon reboot.

BTW the link below works with all versions of windows i guess cos i am using windows 8.1 and it did a great job for me.

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/remove-old-drivers-after-upgrading-to-new-hardware/


----------



## taafe

I've had my qnix since Christmas and done noting with it yet apart from install different vesa mount. the colours look washed out and dull but I don't know how to install the icc profiles I just don't get it? been looking on YouTube but I cant even find anything on there? im new to computers really and don't understand what to install etc. I've looked though this thread but if someone could be as kind and do a icc profile for dummies it would be much appreciated








I game in a poorly lit room and have a matte screen if that helps?
Thanks in advance.


----------



## zerocool135

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocool135*
> 
> My qnix panel is slightly mis-aligned and the bottom gets slightly cut off. Now there is no back light bleed to speak of, so will taking the case off to adjust the panel cause any BLB to occur or do i only need to worry about that if the metal frame comes off, Thanks in advance.


anybody?


----------



## hodgempls

I took mine apart and tried had to center my panel as well. The panel itself is sturdy and unless to drop it, bang it around etc you will be fine.


----------



## okanmojo

Hello guys, i just registered to this forum









I read alot about these Monitors here and decided to actually buy a Qnix qx2710 from "storewithstories"
I didnt received it yet but i want to show you how the store handles customer questions and so on.

So i bought the qnix on January 12th and payed it imidiately.
2 days ago i asked when i will get the tracking number and they answered me with this :

"Dear, Customer
I am really sorry for this whole situation.
We have been testing QX2710 monitors to ship the best condition.
But the problem is the panels are really bad..
So we can not ship it yet.

Now we are still trying to find the great one with no defective.

Could you please wait more?

If there is a problem, I will let you know first.

Thank you
Shelly"

So i answered :

Hello Shelly,

thank your for the information!
Yes i can wait a little bit more. Please give me an update as soon as possible.
Thank you for your efforts and testing, i appreciate that.

yours sincerely,

and i got imidiate answer with :

Dear, Mr. okanmojo

Thank you for your reply and understanding.
Then, we will try to do our best to ship the great one~!

Once we ship it, tracking will be updated.
If we still can not find good one, I will send you a message again.

thank you for your cooperation.

Shelly

Well the next day i received my tracking number (DHL) and its on the way.
I purchased the perfect pixel one. Im pleased with the testing and hope they hold their promises









I also asked them, if they can use the right Taric number for my country and to write 200USD on invoice and it wasnt a problem at all









So for now im very pleased with this store, although delivery isnt that fast as by some people.
Just wrote this down for people deciding atm where to buy. I will update when i receive


----------



## hodgempls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Hey everyone. Between the qnix and xstar, I'm leaning towards the xstar from dream seller. Does anyone have any other models to recommend or sellers to buy from? Is IPSLEDMonitors.com worth it for the extra $50?
> 
> Also, does the r9 290 have the required ports to use this monitor?


My r9 290 has 2 dvi d ports and is a refference card. Yours should as well.


----------



## flv1333

I'm having a bit of an issue with CRU. I just upgraded to win 8.1 (Complete new installation) and I am not able to set the refresh rate in windows or the Nvidia control panel. Driver was successfully patched.



Could anyone help out or give an hint as to what it may be?

Edit: Never mind, got it to work, I had to un-check the "Include extension block". Now it shows. Back to 110 hz YAY!


----------



## Kold

I finally pulled the trigger on dream-seller's 27in Matte 1440p X-Star. The communication and ability to have one hand picked for an extra bit of money is what sealed the deal for me. The other major sellers messaged me with genetic responses or flat out "no"s when I asked about getting one sent without dead pixels or back light bleed.

When mine arrives, I'll make sure to post some detailed pictures of how it looks.


----------



## taafe

I've had my qnix since Christmas and done noting with it yet apart from install different vesa mount. the colours look washed out and dull but I don't know how to install the icc profiles I just don't get it? been looking on YouTube but I cant even find anything on there? im new to computers really and don't understand what to install etc. I've looked though this thread but if someone could be as kind and do a icc profile for dummies it would be much appreciated









I game in a poorly lit room and have a matte screen if that helps? thanks in advance.


----------



## zerocool135

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hodgempls*
> 
> I took mine apart and tried had to center my panel as well. The panel itself is sturdy and unless to drop it, bang it around etc you will be fine.


Thanks


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> I've had my qnix since Christmas and done noting with it yet apart from install different vesa mount. the colours look washed out and dull but I don't know how to install the icc profiles I just don't get it? been looking on YouTube but I cant even find anything on there? im new to computers really and don't understand what to install etc. I've looked though this thread but if someone could be as kind and do a icc profile for dummies it would be much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I game in a poorly lit room and have a matte screen if that helps? thanks in advance.


Everything I've read about these monitors indicates they are really nice and accurate with slight over saturation.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> I've had my qnix since Christmas and done noting with it yet apart from install different vesa mount. the colours look washed out and dull but I don't know how to install the icc profiles I just don't get it? been looking on YouTube but I cant even find anything on there? im new to computers really and don't understand what to install etc. I've looked though this thread but if someone could be as kind and do a icc profile for dummies it would be much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I game in a poorly lit room and have a matte screen if that helps? thanks in advance.


What operating system r u using


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> What operating system r u using


Im using Windows 7 64bit


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Everything I've read about these monitors indicates they are really nice and accurate with slight over saturation.


Thats true but they dont come out of the box with beautiful colours, you need to create icc profiles and find one that suites you etc. Thats where im at now but not sure how its done properly.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Im using Windows 7 64bit


Download and install this:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/downloads/DisplayProfile.zip

Use it to install different display profiles from TFT central

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#s

My favorite is this one

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/asus_pb278q.icc

Once you download a profile from TFT, click on it and open it. Nothing will happen on the screen but it loads it into your computers available display profiles.

Next, open up the display profile application you downloaded previously. You will see files that end in .icc and some that dont. The .icc files are valid display color profiles. The one you downloaded should be visible. Click on it and the display color profile should change.

You can download as may color profiles as you like and switch between your favorites. If you want to Delete profiles you dont like you need to go under the color management tab under advanced dispaly settings and manually delete them


----------



## Virum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Download and install this:
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/downloads/DisplayProfile.zip
> 
> Use it to install different display profiles from TFT central
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#s
> 
> My favorite is this one
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/asus_pb278q.icc
> 
> Once you download a profile from TFT, click on it and open it. Nothing will happen on the screen but it loads it into your computers available display profiles.
> 
> Next, open up the display profile application you downloaded previously. You will see files that end in .icc and some that dont. The .icc files are valid display color profiles. The one you downloaded should be visible. Click on it and the display color profile should change.
> 
> You can download as may color profiles as you like and switch between your favorites. If you want to Delete profiles you dont like you need to go under the color management tab in dispaly settings and manually delete them


http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#install

I thought that tutorial was pretty straight forward.


----------



## jerrolds

Havent read the last 500 pages or so - but has anyone confirmed if the QNIX/XSTAR monitors support controlling VBLANK intervals? I just found about about AMD's "FreeSync", whichi s similar to Nvidia's GSync - except might not require any hardware changes, especially if you have newer AMD GPUs.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7641/amd-demonstrates-freesync-free-gsync-alternative-at-ces-2014

Interesting.


----------



## Pudfark

Thanks Hardrock and Virum...for the info, tutorial and comments.
I just received my QNIX 2710 two days ago from Korea. It shipped from there to here (Dust Bowl, Tx) in under 48 hours.
Arrived in great shape with no dead pixels and no back light bleed and it was not a "Hand Picked Monitor". I could not be happier. My intent this weekend is to overclock it to 96hz. The information in this forum will make it much easier for me. Thank You to All.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Thanks Hardrock and Virum...for the info, tutorial and comments.
> I just received my QNIX 2710 two days ago from Korea. It shipped from there to here (Dust Bowl, Tx) in under 48 hours.
> Arrived in great shape with no dead pixels and no back light bleed and it was not a "Hand Picked Monitor". I could not be happier. My intent this weekend is to overclock it to 96hz. The information in this forum will make it much easier for me. Thank You to All.


NP I agree, this forum has been invaluable for me. I was a click away form buying a $700 27 inch Dell monitor until I came across this forum and the Qnix. Couldn't be happier, especially at 115Hz !!!


----------



## ProperMod

Anyone not happy with their GLOSSY QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPort monitor? I have been looking high and low for a GLOSSY panel to match the two others I have. Has anyone seen the Glossy and Matte side by side? How much difference is there in the image? Will it be totally distracting?


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Download and install this:
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/downloads/DisplayProfile.zip
> 
> Use it to install different display profiles from TFT central
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#s
> 
> My favorite is this one
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/asus_pb278q.icc
> 
> Once you download a profile from TFT, click on it and open it. Nothing will happen on the screen but it loads it into your computers available display profiles.
> 
> Next, open up the display profile application you downloaded previously. You will see files that end in .icc and some that dont. The .icc files are valid display color profiles. The one you downloaded should be visible. Click on it and the display color profile should change.
> 
> You can download as may color profiles as you like and switch between your favorites. If you want to Delete profiles you dont like you need to go under the color management tab under advanced dispaly settings and manually delete them


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Download and install this:
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/downloads/DisplayProfile.zip
> 
> Use it to install different display profiles from TFT central
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#s
> 
> My favorite is this one
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/asus_pb278q.icc
> 
> Once you download a profile from TFT, click on it and open it. Nothing will happen on the screen but it loads it into your computers available display profiles.
> 
> Next, open up the display profile application you downloaded previously. You will see files that end in .icc and some that dont. The .icc files are valid display color profiles. The one you downloaded should be visible. Click on it and the display color profile should change.
> 
> You can download as may color profiles as you like and switch between your favorites. If you want to Delete profiles you dont like you need to go under the color management tab under advanced dispaly settings and manually delete them


Thank you
I managed it wasn't that difficult really, was just me getting into a flap. On TFT central do you just pick any off the list? im using the same as you http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/asus_pb278q.icc
Not sure if it the right one though? It looks better then how it was but I have no idea what to expect? To be honest though it looks more or less the same as my Asus TN panel. Could you suggest a profile for use in a darkish room?
Thanks again +1


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Thank you
> I managed it wasn't that difficult really, was just me getting into a flap. On TFT central do you just pick any off the list? im using the same as you http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/asus_pb278q.icc
> Not sure if it the right one though? It looks better then how it was but I have no idea what to expect? To be honest though it looks more or less the same as my Asus TN panel. Could you suggest a profile for use in a darkish room?
> Thanks again +1


I just click on them and download them. I recommend just downloading a few and trying them out. Honestly as far as recommending Color profiles I may not be the best, i am a bit color blind so what looks good to me may look like road kill to you LOL. In the first page of this thread there is a how to section on color profiles. Some guys list ones they like. I think the Samsung profiles are popular as well.


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> I just click on them and download them. I recommend just downloading a few and trying them out. Honestly as far as recommending Color profiles I may not be the best, i am a bit color blind so what looks good to me may look like road kill to you LOL


Well to be fair im rocking the same .icc as you! ive downloaded about 10 and the Asus PB278Q looks pretty good to me. Going to play a bit of far cry 3 and see how much beautiful the islands looks ha! My next question is going to be on overclocking the beauty, but will saved that for another day.
Thanks again


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Well to be fair im rocking the same .icc as you! ive downloaded about 10 and the Asus PB278Q looks pretty good to me. Going to play a bit of far cry 3 and see how much beautiful the islands looks ha! My next question is going to be on overclocking the beauty, but will saved that for another day.
> Thanks again


Overclocking is cake. I have a Dell Ultrasharp 2407 wfp color profile that I can E-mail u if you want to PM me you info. For some reason I cant attach it on OCN, it a blocked file type.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

If you want to attach the file, archive it as a Zip file.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> If you want to attach the file, archive it as a Zip file.


Oh cool thanks

Here is my old Dell Ultrasharp 2407 wfp stock color calibration. It was a 1920 x 1200 display. Hopefully you guys can use it.

StockDell2407WFPColorProfile.zip 50k .zip file


----------



## taafe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> Oh cool thanks
> 
> Here is my old Dell Ultrasharp 2407 wfp stock color calibration. It was a 1920 x 1200 display. Hopefully you guys can use it.
> 
> StockDell2407WFPColorProfile.zip 50k .zip file


Thanks I shall try that one too. Tomorrow I am going to install another 20 or so and find the best one. The more I look at them the more I notice how bad or good the screen looks its just trial anf error I suppose.


----------



## Virum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Virum*
> 
> 120Hz works fine when my QNIX is the only monitor plugged in. As soon as i plug in my second monitor it turned into a big gray screen with lighter gray boxes. 96Hz works fine.


Anyone have any idea whats going on with this issue?


----------



## MrHanz

QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE
can somone tell me what is new on the SE edtion?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/131095629800?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123


----------



## Kold

I'd say it's the same. Specs are identical from what I could find.


----------



## themj

So after watching this thread like a hawk for a few weeks and gathering tons of great information (thanks everyone who takes the time to reply) I have decided to go for the X-star from dreamseller.

As someone who plays a lot of games my one concern is coming across games that don't support 1440p. Is this something that is common or are most games released in the past 2-3 years 1440p compatible? If a game maxes out at 1080p is it going to look like trash on a 1440p monitor?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Most games support 2560x1440, so you don't need to worry too much.


----------



## darxider

anybody from canada ordered these monitors? how much customs fees did you end up paying? did the seller mark the item as gift?


----------



## amorello

I'm buying a matte Qnix soon, which ebay seller is the best with the least probability of having light bleed and dead/stuck pixels. Thanks!


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> I'm buying a matte Qnix soon, which ebay seller is the best with the least probability of having light bleed and dead/stuck pixels. Thanks!


I don't know which is the best but I bought my Qnix from StorewithStory. I've also seen many buy from dreamseller and accessorieswhole and have been happy with that.

I'm happy with veru happy with my Qnix from StorewithStory.
Fast delivery (3days) and no dead pixles and very little blb (almost non-existent)

EDIT: Wording.


----------



## Kold

I compiled all the qnix and x-star owners on the first post and the majority of purchases went to dream-seller. I can also say that out of all the sellers I messaged, he/she was the only one who responded positively and is allowing me to make sure I have one specially sent to me that is dead pixel and back light bleed free.

No, I am not a spy!


----------



## advion

So I bought an X-star a bit ago and am now trying to dual monitor it with a Dell U2410 through HDMI on the same GTX 670. Whenever I enable the U2410 the X-Star display comes back from the reset showing nothing but vertical lines. Any ideas?

Edit - Scratch that I used Driver Uninstaller and nuked everything driver related and started fresh. That did the trick.

Sorry about the quality it's dark and I took it with a potato. (Raised the brightness around the monitor logo)










Whole scene as shown by a potato.


----------



## Kold

Link to wp?


----------



## Udd3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Udd3n*
> 
> Me and my brother bought a Qnix QX2710 each and we are both very pleased with it and got two monitors with minimal BLB and no dead pixels from Storewithstory but the thing is we both get really tired in the eyes of these screens? We have tried both 60, 96 and 120Hz and have tried maxing brightness(on screen and lowering in nvidia cp), could it just be the difference between 24 and 27 inches? I get like dizzy and I even went and checked my eyes and my sight is totally perfect so its not that.. Any suggestions? Could it just take some time to get used to it? We both had 24 inches TN before.


No one else got a answer/opinion to this? Its still pretty bad, even at full brightness and lowered in Nvidia CP.







My eyes get really tired and keeps tired for like the whole day.. And my brother gets sick after to many hours in front of it..


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Udd3n*
> 
> No one else got a answer/opinion to this? Its still pretty bad, even at full brightness and lowered in Nvidia CP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My eyes get really tired and keeps tired for like the whole day.. And my brother gets sick after to many hours in front of it..


I'm sorry I cna't help you there as I get tired from watching any monitor


----------



## taafe

If your from the UK and didn't pay any custom tax. I did ask assorieswhore to mark item as gift but they responded with basically they cant do that anymore but he can mark item at $200 instead of £214. But I only thought that would make custom tax cheaper?? Anyone else experience this?


----------



## TXTech

Just to update, I got the Ergotron Neo-Flex 33-310-060 stand in and it's working great. I turned the weight adjustment screw a few turns and it is weighted properly for my X-star. Stable and very functional.

The ring base is a bit larger than I would prefer but I guess it needs to be due to the design. Really not an issue.

Buy some M4 washers. The standard VESA screws are M4x10 and then X-Star's screw holes are a bit shallow.


----------



## MrHanz

qnix vs x-star? =)
one klick away form an x-star...


----------



## andom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> anybody from canada ordered these monitors? how much customs fees did you end up paying? did the seller mark the item as gift?


The item was marked to be of $100 value(bought mine from bigclothcraft). Customs charged about $30.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I'm going to buy an x-star soon from dream-seller. Can someone please tell me which wire I'll need to connect my 290 to it? And is the appropriate wire included? Also, what fees were there for having it shipped to the US?


----------



## Moosebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHanz*
> 
> qnix vs x-star? =)
> one klick away form an x-star...


They are identical. No difference expect the name on the front.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> If your from the UK and didn't pay any custom tax. I did ask assorieswhore to mark item as gift but they responded with basically they cant do that anymore but he can mark item at $200 instead of £214. But I only thought that would make custom tax cheaper?? Anyone else experience this?


Hi yes i live in the UK .."Dorset" ..bought my pixel perfect Qnix from accessorieswhole i also asked him if he could mark it down as $200 instead of UK pounds which he did....and i did NOT have to pay income tax!....maybe cos he marked it down at $200 and custom though oh stuff it let him have it! its only $200 worth and they could not be bothered with the paper work with it being only $200.... or an over sight on there part we shall never know!...but i would say i was just lucky....i did expect to pay something but UPS turned up with my monitor and i signed for it and they left....i call that a result.

I ordered the pixel perfect monitor from accessorieswhole and paid a little extra for that...weather that makes a difference and it just the luck of the draw we shall never know...but i can say i did NOT have any dead pixels what so ever...however i did have some back light bleeding and after doing so much reading on forums about these monitor i have become convinced that the only reason these monitors are Samsung A- stock is because of one thing and one thing only.....they all have backlight bleed...I also believe its always the same reason they have it....and its is this ..."the monitor is sat in a bent frame".

Last night i took the whole thing apart and unplugged all the wires and took the screen out and laid it facedown on a flat work surface....and sure enough the frame was bent...it was bowed up in the middle along the top of the monitor about i would say nearly a INCH off the flat surface...right where the backlight bleed was coming from......so i thought there's only one thing for it and that's to strip the frame off and attempt to straighten it....i was quite nervous and did not think to take a picture of the bend...i did take reference pictures and for putting it back together though which are below....anyhow i think anyone who buys one of these monitor must consider if they can firstly live with backlight bleed?...secondly have the courage to take it apart and attempt a repair?... which is also going to have risks doing these at home on a kitchen table or where ever you decide to do it...i am a truck driver not a monitor technician.

Personally for me i can not live with backlight bleed...i opened the case every single day trying to get it to sit better in the case...i even put pressure here with tape balls and released pressure there on the screen in the case in an attempt to fix it.....and i did reduce the back light bleed considerably by a lot doing this...however when gaming....and i have been playing Metro last light a lot just lately which is set in the underground in the future in Russia...its a beautiful graphical game...but its set in dark tunnels and my eyes would be drawn to the very much reduced but still present backlight bleed...and it was doing my head in lol....so i realized there was only one way around this and that was a full strip down....

Summing up i would say if you have the confidence to strip yours down get one....if you can live with back light bleed get one....but if you dont have the confedence to strip one down and you could not live with backlight bleed don't get one!...because i believe 99.9% come with back light bleed and some with dead or stuck pixels or both...this is why they are samsungs A- stock

BTW after straightening of the metal frame on the panel its is now perfect and is an A+ stock Samsung monitor now for only £200


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> I compiled all the qnix and x-star owners on the first post and the majority of purchases went to dream-seller. I can also say that out of all the sellers I messaged, he/she was the only one who responded positively and is allowing me to make sure I have one specially sent to me that is dead pixel and back light bleed free.
> 
> No, I am not a spy!


Thank you! So if I message him/her asking to check it before sending it, he/she will do so?
Does paying for "perfect" matter or it's just a hoax? One of these two right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/221233250459?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338287809b


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Thank you! So if I message him/her asking to check it before sending it, he/she will do so?
> Does paying for "perfect" matter or it's just a hoax? One of these two right?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/221233250459?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338287809b


I have never heard of any seller guaranteeing that you will get a monitor without backlight bleed...read my post above and always remember you are buying a A- stock Samsung monitor....there is a reason for this!


----------



## thrgk

Is the evolution II qnix the best one to get? Or just get the pixel perfect non evolution one? What's the difference

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Kold

Well, I will let you guys know if paying the extra fee was worth it when it arrives. Basically, I bought the Perfect Pixel X-Star for $329.00 and then I am sending a little extra directly to him via PayPal for one with no/extremely minimal BLB. As soon as I plug it up, I'll test it and upload pictures. If there is BLB, I will make SURE everyone on this thread knows.

Btw, Lawson67, thank you for your very detailed post. I have no doubts about this monitor now that I know I can solve the BLB problem myself if I have to.







Do you happen to have any pictures of what the bend looked like? I checked your two pictures and couldn't see where the bent part was.. unless I'm an idiot lol


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Well, I will let you guys know if paying the extra fee was worth it when it arrives. Basically, I bought the Perfect Pixel X-Star for $329.00 and then I am sending a little extra directly to him via PayPal for one with no/extremely minimal BLB. As soon as I plug it up, I'll test it and upload pictures. If there is BLB, I will make SURE everyone on this thread knows.
> 
> Btw, Lawson67, thank you for your very detailed post. I have no doubts about this monitor now that I know I can solve the BLB problem myself if I have to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you happen to have any pictures of what the bend looked like? I checked your two pictures and couldn't see where the bent part was.. unless I'm an idiot lol


No i did not take any pictures of the bend to be honest this was beaurse i was to nervous....i just wanted to get it fixed....the pictures below are ones i took for refrance to help me reassemble it correctly...however there are many pictures on the net and in this forum....one guys pictures i seen look just the same as mine....he sat his on a flat table and put weight lifting weights on top of the bend in the frame and left it some hours.....this would of been an option for me as i have many weights cos i workout....however i did not want to risk trying to straighten the frame with the monitor still sat in it...once the monitor cracks...that's if it cracks its game over!....and i did not want to take that risk....mine was bent along the top of the frame laying face down....screen down...the bow was along the top of the monitor and it peaked somewhere in the middle at about nearly an inch high....i just used brute force with my hands to straighten it and keep laying the frame back on the table to see if it was straight....once i was happy it was straight i reassembled it.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Udd3n*
> 
> No one else got a answer/opinion to this? Its still pretty bad, even at full brightness and lowered in Nvidia CP.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My eyes get really tired and keeps tired for like the whole day.. And my brother gets sick after to many hours in front of it..


Try putting a low watt light bulb or light strip or whatever low light behind your monitor so it will give a light background in a dark room. The light coming a big monitor stress the eyes especially if the distance is less than a meter and the additional back light will help it. Try it.









Google search image: light behind monitor

Example links: http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1031820601&postcount=9417
or http://www.head-fi.org/t/397869/pictures-of-your-computer-rigs-post-them-here/7065


----------



## hammelgammler

Just took of my panel again and try to fix it by putting weights on the edges of the panel, so that it maybe gets flat so that the backlight bleeding goes away.

Heres a picture of my "construction":



Let's see if this will make any improvement of that horrible backlight bleeding.


----------



## Kold

Yah it's never good to be too close to your monitor and/or not have some background light.


----------



## thrgk

I'm good to GI to buy a new monitor. I will want to overclock it though I will only use it for my desktop. Is the perfect pixel evolution II with ONLY the DVI port the one to get? As multiple connectors won't oc as well?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> I'm good to GI to buy a new monitor. I will want to overclock it though I will only use it for my desktop. Is the perfect pixel evolution II with ONLY the DVI port the one to get? As multiple connectors won't oc as well?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


Yes you DO NOT want the D-PORT Qnix evolution II if you want to overclock...you want the one with only ONE input DVI port.


----------



## thrgk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> I'm good to GI to buy a new monitor. I will want to overclock it though I will only use it for my desktop. Is the perfect pixel evolution II with ONLY the DVI port the one to get? As multiple connectors won't oc as well?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you DO NOT want the D-PORT Qnix evolution II if you want to overclock...you want the one with only ONE input DVI port.
Click to expand...

now will these need color calibration and everything? I know there may be some bleeding but will anything else need calibrating or stuff?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Kold

From what I was told earlier in this thread, there are custom made ICC? profiles posted on here we can download and try. I think, lol.


----------



## thrgk

oh ok, i didnt see them yet. I really want the Qnix, but have no real experience with color calibrating or anything, so i may get the asus for $450 instead of the qnix, but not really sure, i like that the qnix can oc


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> now will these need color calibration and everything? I know there may be some bleeding but will anything else need calibrating or stuff?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


If you overclock it you will need to recalibrate as gamma drops the higher the HZ you go.....I use NCX ICC profiles which correct the gamma drop on higher HZ....i run my Qnix at 120hz 24/7 using his 120hz ICC profile and the colours are wonderfull....

Get NCX ICC profiles here

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117


----------



## thrgk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> If you overclock it you will need to recalibrate as gamma drops the higher the HZ you go.....I use NCX ICC profiles which correct the gamma drop on higher HZ....i run my Qnix at 120hz 24/7 using his 120hz ICC profile and the colours are wonderfull....
> 
> Get NCX ICC profiles here
> 
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117


Is there a guide on how to OC the monitor as well? as i have never done that before. Is that done through CCC?


----------



## Riadon

Is there any reason why I am unable to exceed a pixel clock of 400 MHz after updating my drivers from 314.22 to 332.21? Both drivers were patched with the lasted version (full patch) of the ToastyX patcher. I was able to run at 144 Hz with custom timings before updating my drivers, but now I can't exceed 104 Hz (in other words, 400 MHz pixel clock).

I rolled my drivers back to 314.22, but I still can't exceed 400 MHz. I know that it was caused by the drivers because I was fine immediately before installing the drivers. Now I get green dots at 400 MHz even on the desktop.

Is the patch not working for some reason? I know that I need the full patch because I use a single 3 GB 580 at the moment.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Is there a guide on how to OC the monitor as well? as i have never done that before. Is that done through CCC?


There is a overclock guide on the OP...however this..

If you use SLI you must use the full patch ..for nvidia cards use this patch http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
For AMD ATI cards you this patch
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
CRU is here
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

Now if you are using SLI to get around the 400 MHz pixel clock limit for SLI you must use the FULL PATCH..unless you plan to only use 96 Hz. If you stay under that limit, the regular patch is still required for CRU but not the NVIDIA control panel.

CRU is more effective at making custom refresh rates available to games. You only need to add a detailed resolution and change the refresh rate. To reduce the pixel clock for a more stable signal, set the totals to 2652x1458.

If you use CRU with NVIDIA, you must either disable the extension block and uninstall GeForce Experience, or you can work around the GeForce Experience problem by enabling the extension block and importing this file: http://www.monitortests.com/blank-extension.dat

If you use the NVIDIA control panel, many games won't use the custom refresh rate unless you install the qnix.inf file in the device manager: http://www.monitortests.com/qnix.zip

I personally would not overclock using the NVIDIA control panel i would just use CRU then you dont need the Qnix driver file.

You maybe/might need to disable driver signature enforcement in windows 8 if you need to install the qnix.inf file. You don't need to install that file if you're using CRU.

So just use CRU









You don't need to downgrade the driver. The patch should work with 332.21

I use NVIDIA but ATI is just about the same process just use the ATI patch


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> There is a overclock guide on the OP...however this..
> 
> If you use SLI you must use the full patch ..for nvidia cards use this patch http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> For AMD ATI cards you this patch
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> CRU is here
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU
> 
> Now if you are using SLI to get around the 400 MHz pixel clock limit for SLI unless you plan to only use 96 Hz. If you stay under that limit, the regular patch is still required for CRU but not the NVIDIA control panel.
> 
> CRU is more effective at making custom refresh rates available to games. You only need to add a detailed resolution and change the refresh rate. To reduce the pixel clock for a more stable signal, set the totals to 2652x1458.
> 
> If you use CRU with NVIDIA, you must either disable the extension block and uninstall GeForce Experience, or you can work around the GeForce Experience problem by enabling the extension block and importing this file: http://www.monitortests.com/blank-extension.dat
> 
> If you use the NVIDIA control panel, many games won't use the custom refresh rate unless you install the qnix.inf file in the device manager: http://www.monitortests.com/qnix.zip
> 
> You only need to disable driver signature enforcement if you need to install the qnix.inf file. You don't need to install that file if you're using CRU.
> 
> You don't need to downgrade the driver. The patch should work with 332.21.


Did you mean to reply to me? I know exactly how to overclock, 332.21 just screwed up anything over 400 MHz even after rolling back to 314.22. This makes me think that the patch isn't working for some reason.


----------



## lawson67

My reply was to thrgk who i quoted in my reply....and 332.21 works just fine on my pc?..i used full patch as i have SLI


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> My reply was to thrgk who i quoted in my reply....and 332.21 works just fine on my pc?..i used full patch as i have SLI


The last line about not needing to downgrade from 332.21 just seemed to refer to me since I had just mentioned it and thrgk is AMD.


----------



## lawson67

I didnt know what thrgk is using to be honest ATI or NVIDIA.. .however i have only ever overclocked with NVIDIA as thats what i have....also i can confirm 332.21 works fine with me.


----------



## thrgk

cool, I guess ill order one. there is a pixel perfect one on ebay from greensum for $340 or non perfect for $320, for $20 id rather have perfect pixel tho.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> cool, I guess ill order one. there is a pixel perfect one on ebay from greensum for $340 or non perfect for $320, for $20 id rather have perfect pixel tho.


I got bought pixel perfect also...just for the fact that if i had any dead pixels i would have ebays support


----------



## thrgk

haha true, how many days it take to arrive after you ordered it?

This one ill grab http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11#shpCntId


----------



## lawson67

It took only 4 Days to get from south Korea to the UK...and yeah grab that one and if you get any dead pixels you have Ebays support...ALSO you can tear the seller a new one just to release any frustration you may have if you do have any dead pixels


----------



## tribolex

Does this QNix work with the new GSync-modul?


----------



## Kold

I think it only works with TN panels.


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Well, I'm happy to report that I have 3840x2160 @ 60hz downsampling working on the Qnix. I can go as high as 66hz, but many games do not recognize that refresh rate, so I knocked it down to 60.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> Well, I'm happy to report that I have 3840x2160 @ 60hz downsampling working on the Qnix. I can go as high as 66hz, but many games do not recognize that refresh rate, so I knocked it down to 60.


Nice!

What would be better about downsampling with the monitor at a lower refresh rate vs keeping it at 1440p @ 96hz or higher but using the upscale option in current games that will render 3840x2160? I've been playing BF4 and Dayz upscaled to that and it looks incredible. Would it be even better if I just downsample the monitor from the get go and then have it as my native resolution? Or the same? I'm still confused on down sampling.

thanks for any insight


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> I think it only works with TN panels.


Actually CES had some non-TN panels with GSync on display.

But GSync probably won't come to Korean panels any time soon.


----------



## latprod

downsampling, upscaling... I tried downsampling, and it just won't work at all, I am probably missing something.
but now there's upscaling.. how does that work? Where do you upscale in bf4 f.ex? or day-z?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> downsampling, upscaling... I tried downsampling, and it just won't work at all, I am probably missing something.
> but now there's upscaling.. how does that work? Where do you upscale in bf4 f.ex? or day-z?


When downsampling the Qnix try setting your total pixel count to 4150x1445 and then set the stock timings of 3 and 5 to 1 and 1. This generally will get you 4K at least at 55hz. Upscaling can be achieved through the config file for resolution size in most games but newer games have an option for supersampling which more easily accomplishes the same thing.

My settings for downsampling is [email protected] with a 1:1 blanking period. I can achieve higher but that requires a bios mod to keep the card in 3D mode constantly and forcing a P3 power state. I was able to get [email protected] with this method. I ended up removing it since the overhead is a pain plus even with a GTX780ti the FPS are unplayable.

EDIT: Take a look over this thread especially the later pages of it(where i go over Qnix downsampling). It will definitely get you in the right direction as it did other members that have looked over it and PMed me already.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1351914/neogaf-downsampling-a-simple-method-for-making-your-pc-games-look-better
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> Well, I'm happy to report that I have 3840x2160 @ 60hz downsampling working on the Qnix. I can go as high as 66hz, but many games do not recognize that refresh rate, so I knocked it down to 60.


Same here. But you can get most games to use the 66hz with config file tweaks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> What would be better about downsampling with the monitor at a lower refresh rate vs keeping it at 1440p @ 96hz or higher but using the upscale option in current games that will render 3840x2160? I've been playing BF4 and Dayz upscaled to that and it looks incredible. Would it be even better if I just downsample the monitor from the get go and then have it as my native resolution? Or the same? I'm still confused on down sampling.
> 
> thanks for any insight


This depends on the game your playing. Any FPS will do better with higher refresh, many RTS or older games work better with downsampling to squeeze a little more graphics out of them. I like to use [email protected] for my FPS multiplayer games and then downsampling for games like CIV5, Skyrim, and even crysis(which only lowers 3 FPS when downsampled due to the very poor GPU optimization).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Actually CES had some non-TN panels with GSync on display.
> 
> But GSync probably won't come to Korean panels any time soon.


Gsync will NOT work on korean single input panels unless the LVDS nonscaler enabled converter has a firmware mod to match the gsync control board. So unless someone creates a firmware and a viable way to upload it to the LVDS board in our Qnix monitor this will not happen. Plus gsync is a completely silly price right now($200 for a board and then YOU have to install it potentially voiding your monitor warranty).

$200 and a potentially monitor/warranty destroying mod sounds like quite a fail to me. This will likely not be a viable upgarde for most users till it is pre-integrated and the price drops below 100. I would not spend 200 and crack open my panel just to get rid of the less than 2ms input lag vsync creates. Hopefully freesync competitive nature pushes these problems to resolution.


----------



## Virum

120Hz works fine when my QNIX is the only monitor plugged in. As soon as i plug in my second monitor it turned into a big gray screen with lighter gray boxes (both monitors). 96Hz works fine.

Anyone know what might be causing this?


----------



## latprod

Thanks for all the info Spartan F8, I'll see if I can get my head around it.
"My settings for downsampling is [email protected] with a 1:1 blanking period. I can achieve higher but that requires a bios mod to keep the card in 3D mode constantly and forcing a P3 power state" .... I have no idea what this means


----------



## MrHanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHanz*
> 
> QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE
> can somone tell me what is new on the SE edtion?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/131095629800?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123


Reply:
Hi

Sorry for the late response due to the weekend.

"SE" monitor has 0~5 dead/stuck pixels.
The version without "SE" has 0~3 dead/stuck pixel.
The price of perfect pixel monitor is US $399.


----------



## themj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHanz*
> 
> Reply:
> Hi
> 
> Sorry for the late response due to the weekend.
> 
> "SE" monitor has 0~5 dead/stuck pixels.
> The version without "SE" has 0~3 dead/stuck pixel.
> The price of perfect pixel monitor is US $399.


Noticed that as well but its weird since the non-SE is cheaper by $15 and guaranteed less dead pixels.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Thanks for all the info Spartan F8, I'll see if I can get my head around it.
> "My settings for downsampling is [email protected] with a 1:1 blanking period. I can achieve higher but that requires a bios mod to keep the card in 3D mode constantly and forcing a P3 power state" .... I have no idea what this means


Your graphics card has a 2D mode and 3D mode that has an active effect on the data rate and power consumption of your card. Leaving this at stock levels has a major effect on the amount of downsampling that can be done. This is because of the larger data rate required for 1440p over 1080p active resolution. Forcing the 3D mode and thus increasing the active data rate of the DVI port the monitor is connected to vastly increases the amount of downsampling that can occur.

For example during downsampling i am sure many have had failed attempts where all you can see is 5 pixel of lines at the top of the screen. This happens when a downsampling resolution is possible but the port is not running fast enough to successfully render the entire screen. Meaning if you where to force your DVI port into 3D mode before hand EVERY attempt that resulted in only top 5 pixel lines rendered WOULD be successful in the entire screen being rendered.

Hope this clears thing up a bit


----------



## MrHanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Virum*
> 
> 120Hz works fine when my QNIX is the only monitor plugged in. As soon as i plug in my second monitor it turned into a big gray screen with lighter gray boxes (both monitors). 96Hz works fine.
> 
> Anyone know what might be causing this?










that sounds not that good







planing 24 @ 1080p + 27 @ 1440p (~ 120hz







)


----------



## jacqg

Overclocked mine to 115 Hz and I recently upgraded to KRK Rokit 6's. It seems to be the cause of this buzzing noise when I use RCA connections with it. I have it wired to my lexicon alpha. Just letting people know in case anyone wants to go this route. I'm ordering a TRS to RCA connector to use with an Aune T1 amp/dac. Will update if that works.


----------



## Derpinheimer

I tried to search and google for an answer but couldnt get any direct answer..

Does anyone know how the input lag on these compares to the Achieva Shimian QH270? Im considering switching to one of these for the increase in refresh rate - and I [think?] I have some ghosting and lag on this monitor. Thanks


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derpinheimer*
> 
> I tried to search and google for an answer but couldnt get any direct answer..
> 
> Does anyone know how the input lag on these compares to the Achieva Shimian QH270? Im considering switching to one of these for the increase in refresh rate - and I [think?] I have some ghosting and lag on this monitor. Thanks


http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html

http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270

Everything you would EVER want to know about these panels(well for the most part).


----------



## Derpinheimer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270
> 
> Everything you would EVER want to know about these panels(well for the most part).


Thanks so much! I swear I tried to find this sort of info myself


----------



## wblastyn

Hello, first time poster here.

My "Pixel Perfect" Qnix arrived today from accessorieswhole (thanks to this thread!). It scared me when I first switched it on because it didn't seem to work! But turned out it will only work with the actual DL-DVI port on my 7990, not the miniDP -> DL-DVI adapter I'd been using with my previous monitor. I overclocked to 120 Hz but I was getting artifacts in games, so I tried using the "LCD Reduced" setting and now it's running perfectly. Played around with some ICC profiles and found dascth's "100 Hz calibration, max brightness, matte monitor" was the best (thanks!), all the others were still too dark.

There don't appear to be any dead pixels but there's a kind of glow from the corners when it's dark, I don't know if it's backlight bleed or ips glow? Either way it doesn't seem to bother me too much.

Anyway, thanks for the recommendation, I definitely saved myself a lot of money (even with the £45 duty fee







)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHanz*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that sounds not that good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> planing 24 @ 1080p + 27 @ 1440p (~ 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


This is my identical setup for my wife and it works just fine off a GTX570.


----------



## Mysticode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wblastyn*
> 
> Hello, first time poster here.
> 
> My "Pixel Perfect" Qnix arrived today from accessorieswhole (thanks to this thread!). It scared me when I first switched it on because it didn't seem to work! But turned out it will only work with the actual DL-DVI port on my 7990, not the miniDP -> DL-DVI adapter I'd been using with my previous monitor. I overclocked to 120 Hz but I was getting artifacts in games, so I tried using the "LCD Reduced" setting and now it's running perfectly. Played around with some ICC profiles and found dascth's "100 Hz calibration, max brightness, matte monitor" was the best (thanks!), all the others were still too dark.
> 
> There don't appear to be any dead pixels but there's a kind of glow from the corners when it's dark, I don't know if it's backlight bleed or ips glow? Either way it doesn't seem to bother me too much.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the recommendation, I definitely saved myself a lot of money (even with the £45 duty fee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


What's the model number of your monitor? Thanks.


----------



## wblastyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> What's the model number of your monitor? Thanks.


Qnix QX2710. It's this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111088789065?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## alfredwl

Hola, just joining the club.

QNIX QX2710 - _Tempered Glass_ (No sunlight issues in my room.)
Stable OC: *120Hz* (Haven't tried to go higher, not that I really care. I'll probably just be running it at 96Hz because I'm a skeptic.)
Seller: *dream-seller*
Price: *$299*
Zero dead or stuck pixels, minimal to no back light bleeding.

Anyways, other than the painful and delayed shipment, the experience was good. Despite my gripes below, he seemed very courteous and professional. He offered me a $10 partial refund due to the delays, I can appreciate that. Will I buy from him again? Quite possibly, I know **** happens, but goddamn that was annoying.

The process:

Originally placed order on January 7th for an X-STAR, was informed that there was a bad batch of X-STARS, offered to switch me to QNIX on January 8th, closed deal again January 9th.
Shipment information sent to FedEx on the 12th, a Sunday.
January 16th rolls around, no tracking updates whatsoever.
January 17th, he responds and blames FedEx for delays. Few hours later, FedEx magically picks up the package, those delays huh...
Monitor arrives on the 20th, today.
My TestUFO Frame Skipping Test


Wooooooooooo, now I need to get one or two more.


----------



## thrgk

Anyone order from Green sum(I think his name is?) on ebay? Wondering how long it takes to get to the US. I got a shipment confirmation email from ebay, but UPS just says a label was made.

Am I looking at weeks or? Id love by next saturday if possible!


----------



## acalora

Hey, I overclocked my monitor to 96hz, and now Burnout Paradise runs, but it flickers and nothing shows up on the screen. Does anyone have an experience with games not running at higher framerates?


----------



## mmille24

Just finally set up my X-STAR, however I'm noticing a faint green line down the entire monitor. Is there anyway to get rid of this or is this permanent? Thanks!


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> The item was marked to be of $100 value(bought mine from bigclothcraft). Customs charged about $30.


thank you. i appreciate it


----------



## Hardrock

Hey can someone post up there timings for 120 hz. I can get my Qnix past 115 hz no matter what I do. Maybe i need to get a shorter DVI cable or something.


----------



## raistlinx37

Using the cru how do I set the color depth, when I go to select the 96 hz it swaps to 16 bit color ;(


----------



## iCrap

I did the debezel and wall mounted the display.. looks good now

The backlight is so uneven and has light spots though... any way to fix?


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I did the debezel and wall mounted the display.. looks good now
> 
> The backlight is so uneven and has light spots though... any way to fix?


Holy hell man thats awesome !!!!!!! What GPU are you abusing with that setup.


----------



## iCrap

7950 crossfire on that.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> 7950 crossfire on that.


Wow, hows you FPS in BF4 ? What MP graphics settings are you running ? Also are you able to OC all those monitors on Crossfire ?


----------



## raistlinx37

Just 2 of those cards or how many?


----------



## iCrap

Two of them OCed under water. Ultra textures, mix of high and medium everything else and 2x aa with no post. it never drops below 40fps.
Bioshock infinite hangs at around 70fps maxed.

Monitors wont OC in eyefinity, only single mode.

Also, the OC causes a color shift and also burn in so i gave up on it.


----------



## latprod

@Spartan F8

Thanks man, I get it. I'm reading through the downsampling thread you linked so I can go and try it. Running 2x 780Ti so should be able to handle it


----------



## Kalameet

Hi ,

will my system be enough for 2560x1440 gaming. Planing to play games like bf4, dark souls 2 and elder scrolls online on mid to high settings or do i need to upgrade ?

amd phenom 2 x6 1100t 3,3 ghz
gtx 580 1,5gb
m4A77t board from asus
8 gb ram

thanks


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kalameet*
> 
> Hi ,
> 
> will my system be enough for 2560x1440 gaming. Planing to play games like bf4, dark souls 2 and elder scrolls online on mid to high settings or do i need to upgrade ?
> 
> amd phenom 2 x6 1100t 3,3 ghz
> gtx 580 1,5gb
> m4A77t board from asus
> 8 gb ram
> 
> thanks


Mid to high settings would be OK for all but BF4. You may need to go low settings on VRAM dependent settings for BF4 or you will get bottlenecked by your 1.5gb of VRAM. Also overclocking that CPU to at least 4Ghz will remove any bottlenecking you may get. I will say that you likely will be running a good amount under 120FPS thus making overclocking a bit less useful.

Overall you can make it work especially with several optimizations in your hardware frequencies and applying any game optimization patches(both user and creator made) but you will not be getting 120FPS(and maybe not even 60FPS in BF4 without dropping settings).


----------



## Kold

My monitor is finally shipping. Deilvery by FedEX is next Monday. I paid 329.00 + 50.00 to have a supposedly "perfect" monitor. He said he was going to send me the best one he could find. We shall see.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> My monitor is finally shipping. Deilvery by FedEX is next Monday. I paid 329.00 + 50.00 to have a supposedly "perfect" monitor. He said he was going to send me the best one he could find. We shall see.


Same. Except I paid $330+$20 from Dream-Seller. I asked them to send me the best one they can find, as it is going to be used for medical purposes







. I bought the monitor yesterday at approximately 9:00AM, and they shipped it out this morning at 2:30 AM. I hope they just didn't pocket my money, but actually took the time to look for a good monitor. I too will have it by Monday,


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Same. Except I paid $330+$20 from Dream-Seller. I asked them to send me the best one they can find, as it is going to be used for medical purposes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I bought the monitor yesterday at approximately 9:00AM, and they shipped it out this morning at 2:30 AM. I hope they just didn't pocket my money, but actually took the time to look for a good monitor. I too will have it by Monday,


Make sure you show everyone your results like I plan to. Then we can really see if paying for the "Extra Quality Check" is worth it or a waste of time.

Also, so everyone knows, dream-seller probably always charges $20 for that check. I personally offered him an extra $50 to make sure it was perfect. Had I just asked to pay a little more for a perfect pixel and blb free monitor, he would have charged me $20.


----------



## mars231

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Make sure you show everyone your results like I plan to. Then we can really see if paying for the "Extra Quality Check" is worth it or a waste of time.
> 
> Also, so everyone knows, dream-seller probably always charges $20 for that check. I personally offered him an extra $50 to make sure it was perfect. Had I just asked to pay a little more for a perfect pixel and blb free monitor, he would have charged me $20.


Hmm, I did the same thing but he told me that there was no fixed priced so I offered him an extra $30 for that "Extra Quality Check" since the non pixel perfect was just a difference of $30. I guess we will see in due time if it was really worth it. Although I ordered mine on the 15th and it still hasn't shipped yet, only got the shipping information received tracking.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Hmm... he's making a lot of money from this.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mars231*
> 
> Hmm, I did the same thing but he told me that there was no fixed priced so I offered him an extra $30 for that "Extra Quality Check" since the non pixel perfect was just a difference of $30. I guess we will see in due time if it was really worth it. Although I ordered mine on the 15th and it still hasn't shipped yet, only got the shipping information received tracking.


Mine appears to have shipped since I already have the estimated delivery date?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Hmm... he's making a lot of money from this.


Yes he is, but if all these people paying post up their results and we see that we got screwed, a lot of potential buyers coming here will see that and go to another seller.


----------



## mars231

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Mine appears to have shipped since I already have the estimated delivery date?
> Yes he is, but if all these people paying post up their results and we see that we got screwed, a lot of potential buyers coming here will see that and go to another seller.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Mine appears to have shipped since I already have the estimated delivery date?
> Yes he is, but if all these people paying post up their results and we see that we got screwed, a lot of potential buyers coming here will see that and go to another seller.


Yea mine also has a estimated delivery date of Monday the 27th. However he told me that he enters the tracking number before it get shipped and will let me know when it actually ships which should be today since they should be getting another batch of x-stars.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Hmm... he's making a lot of money from this.


I wonder how many bogus claims they can make and people still not understand that it is a scam. I mean try calling ANY monitor vender and request them to open the box and check things out. Many will tell you no, some will tell you sure to get you off the phone and still do nothing, and a few will smile and say that will cost you 30 and then still do nothing. You want some assurance then buy a real warranty like squaretrade or buy mainstream.

I know that some members have done all this messaging and think they got somewhere with "perfect" guarantees but the success/horror stories are both a dime a dozen(if you look in this thread and other korean panel threads). The fact is that you still have just as much chance to get a bum panel.

PP = scam


----------



## Kold

SquareTrade doesn't offer any type of dead pixel coverage do they? Or is it the basic 5 pixels?


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I wonder how many bogus claims they can make and people still not understand that it is a scam. I mean try calling ANY monitor vender and request them to open the box and check things out. Many will tell you no, some will tell you sure to get you off the phone and still do nothing, and a few will smile and say that will cost you 30 and then still do nothing. You want some assurance then buy a real warranty like squaretrade or buy mainstream.
> 
> I know that some members have done all this messaging and think they got somewhere with "perfect" guarantees but the success/horror stories are both a dime a dozen(if you look in this thread and other korean panel threads). The fact is that you still have just as much chance to get a bum panel.
> 
> PP = scam


Idk about that, I just bought a Qnix via newegg under NeoFeel and they showed signs of testing the panel, as well as notes left behind. I have 0 dead pixels, and no blacklight bleed. 120hz is humming along..I would say well worth my 40$.









I would recommend them! I also pm'ed them asking to make sure its a good one haha


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> SquareTrade doesn't offer any type of dead pixel coverage do they? Or is it the basic 5 pixels?


Just about EVERY warranty is 5 pixels, even mainstream monitor venders do have pixel expectations in their warranties(Dell, Asus, Acer, read the fine print in their warranty details on their site and not the basic information in the box). Squaretrade is supposed to hold up to the sellers defect policy but when i used them they basically just jumped to give me a refund and go after the seller. So you could potentially say that getting a PP policy in conjunction with a squaretrade warranty in principal would work in your favor given a dispute.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Idk about that, I just bought a Qnix via newegg under NeoFeel and they showed signs of testing the panel, as well as notes left behind. I have 0 dead pixels, and no blacklight bleed. 120hz is humming along..I would say well worth my 40$.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend them! I also pm'ed them asking to make sure its a good one haha


So NeoFeel only charged you an extra $40 to make sure it was perfect? Seems like a good deal.

Spartan F8, yeah I plan to get the SquareTrade warranty just because it will protect me if the screen starts to go bad which is always a higher possibility with these Korean monitors.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Idk about that, I just bought a Qnix via newegg under NeoFeel and they showed signs of testing the panel, as well as notes left behind. I have 0 dead pixels, and no blacklight bleed. 120hz is humming along..I would say well worth my 40$.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend them! I also pm'ed them asking to make sure its a good one haha


I have never dealt with NeoFeel but I have always been supportive of newegg. Which leads me to believe you missed my point. Under korean sellers and any warranty process there is little guarantee. If newegg has some special service that actually does what a lot of these other entities would like to have us believe then that is fine with me and i myself for 40 would opt in for it(given that there was a lasting warranty attached as well). I believe NCIX offered a service similar to this so it doesn't surprise me that newegg and other very component oriented "resellers" may follow suit and may actually perform the things they are claiming.

But point being, korean sellers and mainstream sellers even do not check these before shipping outside the binning process for panel ratings(which i lot can happen in between then and when it gets to your desk). PP still equals a scam in this respect and your post did not really even hold a connection to my point here(sorry but it was only broadly related not specifically).

However ou did make a good point about a potential new service from newegg that might make these a bit safer bet(whether it was direct to my point or not). I would ask what exactly do you mean by "signs of testing" and "notes" left with the monitor? I myself can think of SEVERAL "notes" i could leave with a panel that may sound very authentic to most users and not actually do anything. Also signs of testing tends to leave me with a blank, i mean is the monitor beat up? Scuffed? DVI port pins stripped? At my work i test PC hardware constantly and a good tester can determine quality without leaving "signs" especially on a monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> So NeoFeel only charged you an extra $40 to make sure it was perfect? Seems like a good deal.
> 
> Spartan F8, yeah I plan to get the SquareTrade warranty just because it will protect me if the screen starts to go bad which is always a higher possibility with these Korean monitors.


Firstly, yes it would be a good deal if it offers a warranty along with actual testing but lets make sure of a few things i posted above first.

Secondly, NO korean panels do NOT have a higher term fail rate. Over massive reading and several polls they have been found to have the exact same fail rate of ANY monitor including mainstream panels. The only thing they DO have is a higher initial defect rate in regards to bad pixels(A, -A, B panels), and BLB doesn't count as it is panel pressure from the cheap bezel not actual BLB(meaning just reseat the thing or debezel, no one should buy these thinking there wont be any work involved).

EDIT: This is what i found from searching "NeoFeel" they are simply another korean seller and actually have no affiliation with newegg outside any of the other sellers that post there. So NeoFeel is going to fall under the same blanket of scam like claims unless we get real proof that something was actually done, as anything outside of that is(like i said) a dime a dozen success story that has a horror story to equally combat it(i.e. wishful thinking and money down the drain like many others). Basically they charged you extra in teh exact way any seller on ebay would and it is NOT some offered service tied to newegg.

Their newegg seller account, ironically they don't even have a five egg review.
http://www.newegg.com/Neofeel


----------



## BigDoug

I just got my X-star on Monday and so far it's great. Backlight bleed is minimal and no dead pixels that I saw. At 60Hz there are no issues, but when I overclock I start to see some artifacts that look like clouding or mura. Is there any way to fix this? It could also be dust between the panel and backlight but it wouldnt make sense that it would show up more with higher refresh rate. It really only shows up on darker greyish colors. Full black or full white and it disappears.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigDoug*
> 
> I just got my X-star on Monday and so far it's great. Backlight bleed is minimal and no dead pixels that I saw. At 60Hz there are no issues, but when I overclock I start to see some artifacts that look like clouding or mura. Is there any way to fix this? It could also be dust between the panel and backlight but it wouldnt make sense that it would show up more with higher refresh rate. It really only shows up on darker greyish colors. Full black or full white and it disappears.


This is a type of banding that occurs in the uniformity of the screen during overclocked speeds especially on greys or pale blue colors. Reducing your pixel clock will help reduce the side effect along with possibly settling for 96hz(if pixel clock reductions don't work). It is not dust behind the screen and you already pointed out the proof as to why(it is not there at 60hz).


----------



## Kold

Spartan F8, I don't think they are *all* out to screw people. If you look dream-seller's ebay page, he has no negative feedback for bad monitors or problems with them. I think you are jumping the gun a little when saying they wrote fake notes on his monitor. Once mine comes in, we'll see. Hopefully I'm right, lol.


----------



## latprod

Hey spartan, could you show me some timings for the qnix in regards to downsampling? No matter What i do the nvidia control panel tells me that "the resolution is not supported by your display" i read so much stuff now but all the examples are based on 1080p displays


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Spartan F8, I don't think they are *all* out to screw people. If you look dream-seller's ebay page, he has no negative feedback for bad monitors or problems with them. I think you are jumping the gun a little when saying they wrote fake notes on his monitor. Once mine comes in, we'll see. Hopefully I'm right, lol.


I honestly hope you get a good monitor, but if you do i doubt that it was because someone checked it. You simply won the korean lottery. I don't say this out of "jumping the gun" or a subjective opinion, this is based on the positive and negative postings of many members in the forum with my personal experience(i have owned 12 korean panels and still own 4 of them, i have also worked with squaretrade once and korean sellers twice regarding warranties).

I also did NOT say they wrote fake notes. The notes they wrote could be in context true but have no determining factor in regards to them checking the panel(hopefully that makes sense). Heck when i ordered from accessorieswhole he put a note in the box(said something like certified and thank you) but that doesn't mean the monitor was pulled out and tested(which was apparent when i hooked it up).

Lastly ebay ratings can definitely be deceiving. There are plenty of ebay account that sell known bad products that still have vastly positive reviews(like those miracle gas mileage improvement products that are VERY evidently crap). Reviews are good to have as a factor in your purchase but know what the reviews/ratings are worth.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey spartan, could you show me some timings for the qnix in regards to downsampling? No matter What i do the nvidia control panel tells me that "the resolution is not supported by your display" i read so much stuff now but all the examples are based on 1080p displays




These settings work as high as 68hz for me on a GTX780ti. The graphics card and SLI and make an impact on the downsampling ceiling. I run at 60hz because several of my older games are too dumb to work at odd refresh rates.

EDIT: Here is an ebay seller that has a perfect rating yet here is a product that he is selling that has been proven over and over to be a failure(and this is just one example):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HHO-Water4Gas-Hydrogen-Generator-Kit-including-all-Hook-Up-Parts-to-Install-/251428790202?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8a52dfba&vxp=mtr


----------



## Derpinheimer

Hey guys, seems to be a new PLS monitor coming out - or at least I havent seen any mention of it:

MONEX M27QSM

~$20 cheaper than the Q-nix

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-MONEX-M27QSM-2560x1440-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/131098943991?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e861b21f7

Perfect Pixel [0-1] Matte for $310 OBO? Wow.


----------



## Hardrock

Having a wired issue that I just noticed. I am not sure if it is related to the monitor but I figured I would post it here and see what you guys thought.

When I maximize Google chrome from the task bar it started opening with parts of the window missing as seen here:



I click my mouse on parts of the window they will appear as seen here:



If I click anywhere on the desktop the missing parts of the window fill in all at once and it looks normal.



It happens at my OC of 115 Hz as well as the default 60Hz refresh rate .

I think this may be a Google Chrome issue b/c I am not noticing it with other programs or web browsers. Have you all come across anything like this ?


----------



## teenpercent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themj*
> 
> Noticed that as well but its weird since the non-SE is cheaper by $15 and guaranteed less dead pixels.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25


That link is for worldwide shipping including Russia, Australia..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=131095618252

Check this link for US/Canada buyer. SE is cheaper by $30

I think the price is the lowest.

And non-SE is this link for US/Canada buyer is

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130933173797


----------



## Kold

So what's the difference from the SE and the other one?


----------



## teenpercent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> So what's the difference from the SE and the other one?


No difference from the SE and non SE except for defecive pixel policy.
seller said,
SE : 0-5 defective pixel allowed.
non SE : 0-3 defective pixel allowed
But my SE has only 1 minor dead pixel








it's almost perfect pixel


----------



## Kold

Every Qnix and X-Star I looked at had the 0-5 policy. Can you show me one with 0-3?


----------



## wblastyn

Anyone have trouble with flash videos? I'm only getting a black screen when I try to watch one. I know the pixel clock patch breaks HDCP but I've tried disabling hardware acceleration and it still doesn't work.


----------



## Derpinheimer

$319: 3 pixel limit : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130933173797

$309: 1 pixel limit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-MONEX-M27QSM-2560x1440-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/131098943991?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e861b21f7


----------



## ottoman2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Also when i run standard timings my max stable overclock is 122hz. With custom timings i can hit 153hz(with a good deal of gamma shift). Any higher with stock or custom timings i get the infamous green shooting lines. I optimized my timings and now sit at a very stable 120hz(very little gamma shift about +0.11, good uniformity, no banding at all even on grey). The only trade off is that my GPU runs at 40 degrees idle instead of 34 degrees idle.


The lowest pixel clock I could achieve was 459.5 MHz (2652x1444) with a 120 Hz refresh rate. With these settings, my graphic card would not go into idle mode. Then I raised these values to 2652x1458 (464 MHz pixel clock) and *the idle/2d mode of my GTX 660 was working while using 120 Hz*. But sometimes I get red lines when playing games or watching FullHD movies. Would a better/shorter cable fix this?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoman2*
> 
> The lowest pixel clock I could achieve was 459.5 MHz (2652x1444) with a 120 Hz refresh rate. With these settings, my graphic card would not go into idle mode. Then I raised these values to 2652x1458 (464 MHz pixel clock) and the idle/2d mode of my GTX 660 was working while using 120 Hz. But sometimes I get red lines when playing games or watching FullHD movies. Would a better/shorter cable fix this?


Maybe, if you right on the edge of stability a slightly better cable could be a determining factor.


----------



## Derpinheimer

The general conclusion on glass seems to be it is bad? I have a glass Shimian and like it [because I'm stupid and would probably have broken it more than once without the glass], but since the PLS panels are Matte, does it cause issues?

Also, no sellers offer "guarantee" 120hz, except for that one that costs like $900, right? And no overclockable 30" panels?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derpinheimer*
> 
> The general conclusion on glass seems to be it is bad? I have a glass Shimian and like it [because I'm stupid and would probably have broken it more than once without the glass], but since the PLS panels are Matte, does it cause issues?
> 
> Also, no sellers offer "guarantee" 120hz, except for that one that costs like $900, right? And no overclockable 30" panels?


1. Glass is only good for protection.
2. If you like glass you could go with glossy, if you think you will break then get the glass
3. PLS panels are not all matte and glossy finished panels are available(i own 3)
4. Yes, no sellers offer guaranteed 120hz overclock(even if they do)
5. Even the ones that cost 900 may not 100% get 120hz all the time and all 900 panels that overclock are generally catleap 2Bs which has its own fun facts and is far from guaranteed to overclock to 120hz(just check over the thread)
6. There have been no confirmed positive reports of 30" korean panels overclocking.


----------



## MrHanz

MONEX M27QSM is the new guy in the city... the big Q is, is he oc abel?


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derpinheimer*
> 
> $319: 3 pixel limit : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130933173797
> 
> $309: 1 pixel limit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-MONEX-M27QSM-2560x1440-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/131098943991?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e861b21f7


Damn, that's a great deal. $309 for possibly one dead pixel. I checked the X-Star I bought, and the limit listed for perfect pixel at $329 is 2. I wish they offered something similar for BLB as I feel that is a bigger concern than a couple dead pixels(as long as they aren't in the middle of the screen.)


----------



## MrHanz

a btw have we a list which seller offer "tuning" the invoice


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Damn, that's a great deal. $309 for possibly one dead pixel. I checked the X-Star I bought, and the limit listed for perfect pixel at $329 is 2. I wish they offered something similar for BLB as I feel that is a bigger concern than a couple dead pixels(as long as they aren't in the middle of the screen.)


Hmm, that seems odd to me. I have pretty bad BLB but I never notice it whatsoever unless the screen is completely black. Even one dead pixel would drive me absolutely bonkers no doubt.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wblastyn*
> 
> Anyone have trouble with flash videos? I'm only getting a black screen when I try to watch one. I know the pixel clock patch breaks HDCP but I've tried disabling hardware acceleration and it still doesn't work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wblastyn*
> 
> Anyone have trouble with flash videos? I'm only getting a black screen when I try to watch one. I know the pixel clock patch breaks HDCP but I've tried disabling hardware acceleration and it still doesn't work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> 2x 770's really aren't all that strong for such a high resolution as 3x 2560x1440p monitors.
> 
> had same issue. right click on go to flash properties and uncheck/disable hardware acceleration


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wblastyn*
> 
> Anyone have trouble with flash videos? I'm only getting a black screen when I try to watch one. I know the pixel clock patch breaks HDCP but I've tried disabling hardware acceleration and it still doesn't work.


sorry about previous post.
disable flash hardware acceleration


----------



## Derpinheimer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Hmm, that seems odd to me. I have pretty bad BLB but I never notice it whatsoever unless the screen is completely black. Even one dead pixel would drive me absolutely bonkers no doubt.


Doesnt backlight bleed effect regular viewing as well? Or only blacks? I've never had a monitor with bleed so im not sure..


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derpinheimer*
> 
> Doesnt backlight bleed effect regular viewing as well? Or only blacks? I've never had a monitor with bleed so im not sure..


Technically I'm sure the light is still there regardless, but you're extremely hard pressed to find a difference in the color unless it's completely black. I am a designer so color is pretty important. But the difference between color in the bleed area vs color in the unaffected areas is incredibly difficult to notice, I'm trying to think of a good way to measure it or compare it for you but unfortunately I think it's ultimately subjective.


----------



## Derpinheimer

Hm, I attempted to take a picture of my Shimian on a black screen and as far as I can tell there is no bleed - am I really that lucky? Or is what im seeing bleed and not IPS glow?




Is this a normal amount of bleed to expect, or if I switch to a PLS am I likely going to be bummed?


----------



## TelFiRE

I can see a very tiny amount of bleed at the left and bottom right corners, but it does look like you got off pretty easy. I think almost all of them have a little bit.

When my screen is black there's a lot more light and coming from all corners. But literally the only times I ever notice it are during boot and BF4 load screens lol.


----------



## ottoman2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHanz*
> 
> MONEX M27QSM is the new guy in the city... the big Q is, is he oc abel?


There are even Glossy versions available:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-Glossy-Screen-New-27-MONEX-M27QSM-QHD-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/221359252508?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338a0a241c
But it's not exactly the same monitor like the Qnix or X-Star. The power and DVI ports are at the bottom instead of the side etc.


----------



## n00bftw

come someone please tell me how to unpatch the driver so i can install new nvidia driver as i cant seem to do it and i have looked throught the whole thread with no avail







would greatly appreciate the how to, thanks









do i unpatch using the nvlddmkm-patcher or the nvlddmkm-patcher full, if any1 would be so kind to tell me the difference between the 2 that would b awesome also


----------



## grinchxd

got my QNIX today! and totally felt in love with it!









easy to setup, the panel and colors are blazing me away (got a Samsung 60Hz before). the overclock to 120Hz was easy and without any problems! used the ICC Profile from dascth after the overclock!


----------



## antoniouslj

Ordered an X-Star from Dream Seller last Friday. Got the monitor in yesterday and couldn't be happier!

Back light bleed isn't noticeable with lights on - and even then, is extremely low.

I have overclocked to 120hz and not had too many issues with colors or burn-in.

I don't have any stuck pixels either, having paid for the Pixel Perfect. Still not sure if that's a scam or not though... will probably not order a Pixel Perfect next time and play the roulette.

I seriously couldn't be happier with this monitor!


----------



## causese1990

there are horizontal lines that appear when i'm browsing or watching a video.

GPU: 780 Ti

Can someone show his settings to me?
Does 120Hz hurt your eyes? mine kinda does.. not sure tbh.

Can anyone recommend a better cable?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

What is the cheapest wall mount with tilt+swivel functions I can get?


----------



## wblastyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> sorry about previous post.
> disable flash hardware acceleration


I did, it still didn't work. I was able to get it to work again by restoring the pixel clock patch, but then no 120Hz









EDIT: Hmm, it works in internet explorer but not chrome.


----------



## mmille24

I purchased a monitor from Dream Seller

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

There's a line down the whole monitor. About time I turned the monitor on and tested it, it's now over the 14 day period. The seller refuses to cover it under his/her return policy and wants me to pay 150 dollars to ship it back. Do I have any recourse here? Is there anyway to fix it myself?


----------



## thrgk

Can I use any dvi cable and still get 1440p and 120hz(over clock) or I have to use the included cable


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Can I use any dvi cable and still get 1440p and 120hz(over clock) or I have to use the included cable


Most are able to use the stock cable. For me, I had to purchase a 3 ft and was able to hit 120
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZKSQQ0/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## driedupfish

Am the the only person from the US that has to pay for import duty? I purchased an X-Star from Dreamseller. Then I was hit with 5% import duty fee. They have the classification wrong because according to Fedex brokerage, they didn't have enough info on the invoice, it only indicates "LED Monitor".

Fedex brokerage just told me to file a claim with the US Custom.

Is Fedex responsible for filling the paper work or the US custom? How can they possibly get the classification wrong when it's clearly shown on the retail box that it's a computer monitor? The monitor came in the original retail box, and you can SEE from the picture that it's a computer monitor!









I am thinking of not paying, but do you think Fedex will put a collection agency after me for $13.95?


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Here we go again. Don't know what to tell you exactly but this crap only happens (sometimes?) with Fed Ex and Dream Seller. Maybe someone else who had to deal with it directly can pipe in; there have been more than a few. And every time they come in here asking the exact same question.

I don't know if that dude is not paying his full share on the sending end or has some weird Fed Ex contract but, no, being in the US there should be no duty and the vast majority of us did not have to deal with that (mine came DHL iirc).

So I see the quality of his stock has improved since last summer but Dream Seller is still one of the shadiest sellers in my experienced opinion here.


----------



## thrgk

I am not going to overclock this right away, are there profiles from nxst that are for 60hz, or only overclocked profile


----------



## wrigleyvillain

nxst? Ya there are 60Hz profiles in the OP and at TFT Central.


----------



## causese1990

i received it before paying import duty. some days later i received a fedex import duty charge. should i pay or can i ignore it ?









btw i ordered an expensive dvi-d cable... i hope it works and is worth it.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/321110388303?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648

cause i think 120hz is GPU dependant and since i have the 780 Ti it should be working, right?









will post results once i receive it


----------



## driedupfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> i received it before paying import duty. some days later i received a fedex import duty charge. should i pay or can i ignore it ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw i ordered an expensive dvi-d cable... i hope it works and is worth it.
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/321110388303?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
> 
> cause i think 120hz is GPU dependant and since i have the 780 Ti it should be working, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will post results once i receive it


Did you see my posts couple posts up? I got hit with $13.95. How much was yours? Are you in the US?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> Did you see my posts couple posts up? I got hit with $13.95. How much was yours? Are you in the US?


Who do you exactly pay and where do you pay for the customs fee?


----------



## causese1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> Did you see my posts couple posts up? I got hit with $13.95. How much was yours? Are you in the US?


i'm eu, germany. 50€


----------



## driedupfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Who do you exactly pay and where do you pay for the customs fee?


Apparently Fedex paid US custom on my behave and I have to pay them back.

There was a 5% custom duty charged and I don't think we have to pay duty fees for computer monitor. Basically FEDEX told me that, hey, we pay for your duty and you have to pay us back. They said I can file a dispute with the US Customs and Border that there was an error and I might get a refund back .

I am just gonna pay, because I am afraid that Fedex will put me through collection agency and that would be bad for my credit.

Count myself unlucky.









Heads up for future buyers. Make sure you have the seller clearly marked that it's a computer monitor. And try not to ship via Fedex because it seems those having to pay duty are ship via Fedex.


----------



## causese1990

Is the Monitor still worth it when i have to pay 380$ total?


----------



## Farside24

Hey guys!

Just got my Qnix monitor today.
I am so glad, it's just perfect!

Nevertheless, I am puzzled. I overclocked my screen and it was a little to easy so it makes me suspicious.

I just downloaded the latest drivers for my GTX780 Windforce and created a personalized resolution with a 120hz refresh rate. I applied it and test with the testufo website found on page 1. 120 fps/120hz confirmed.
However, the test does not seem flawless. I have apparently some stuttering.

Why would everybody use the CRU if it is possible (and very easy) to overclock the screen with the nvidia driver? I feel like I'm missing something...


----------



## causese1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farside24*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Just got my Qnix monitor today.
> I am so glad, it's just perfect!
> 
> Nevertheless, I am puzzled. I overclocked my screen and it was a little to easy so it makes me suspicious.
> 
> I just downloaded the latest drivers for my GTX780 Windforce and created a personalized resolution with a 120hz refresh rate. I applied it and test with the testufo website found on page 1. 120 fps/120hz confirmed.
> However, the test does not seem flawless. I have apparently some stuttering.
> 
> Why would everybody use the CRU if it is possible (and very easy) to overclock the screen with the nvidia driver? I feel like I'm missing something...


you have to use chrome for the test
i also don't know the meaning of stuttering


----------



## Farside24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> you have to use chrome for the test
> i also don't know the meaning of stuttering


Yep! Chrome full-screen.

Sorry I seem to have frameskiping not stuttering. The website asks me to close everything else for the test but there is nothing else.


----------



## Captivate

Alright just got my 2nd one of these monitors, X-star. Beautiful once again. Now I am now slightly annoyed by the poor stands, can anyone recommend a proper stand? This is linked in the OP but it says up to 23". This monitor is obviously 27" so I am not sure if it'll work.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> Is the Monitor still worth it when i have to pay 380$ total?


It's a gamble, and you won't get a 100% perfect monitor right out the box like you would when you buy from Samsung or Asus. But that will cost you $700+. Now, when you buy a Korean monitor, you will have something that is not 100%, but maybe 90% and this will cost $350. $300 most of the time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *driedupfish*
> 
> Apparently Fedex paid US custom on my behave and I have to pay them back.
> 
> There was a 5% custom duty charged and I don't think we have to pay duty fees for computer monitor. Basically FEDEX told me that, hey, we pay for your duty and you have to pay us back. They said I can file a dispute with the US Customs and Border that there was an error and I might get a refund back .
> 
> I am just gonna pay, because I am afraid that Fedex will put me through collection agency and that would be bad for my credit.
> 
> Count myself unlucky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heads up for future buyers. Make sure you have the seller clearly marked that it's a computer monitor. And try not to ship via Fedex because it seems those having to pay duty are ship via Fedex.


So did you have to go online and pay it, or did the FedEx driver come over with a shotgun and said you're either giving me my money or you're not getting this monitor.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> Alright just got my 2nd one of these monitors, X-star. Beautiful once again. Now I am now slightly annoyed by the poor stands, can anyone recommend a proper stand? This is linked in the OP but it says up to 23". This monitor is obviously 27" so I am not sure if it'll work.


Check out MonoPrice.com


----------



## driedupfish

Fedex sent me an invoice after I have already receive the item.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> Alright just got my 2nd one of these monitors, X-star. Beautiful once again. Now I am now slightly annoyed by the poor stands, can anyone recommend a proper stand? This is linked in the OP but it says up to 23". This monitor is obviously 27" so I am not sure if it'll work.


I have that exact stand on my Qnix. It will not work in portrait but will work just fine in landscape.

@PillarOfAutumn it is kinda funny you said that since the link he listed takes you to monoprice.

And look a bunch more shipping comments


----------



## Captivate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have that exact stand on my Qnix. It will not work in portrait but will work just fine in landscape.


How are your experiences with it?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> How are your experiences with it?


It is basically Monoprice's multi directional arm connected to a steel pole that is wielded to a flat piece of steel. It is sturdy simple and does its job. I have three of these, 2 of them have Qnix monitors on them and 1 has a 21" Asus.

When trying to put the Qnix on in portrait, even at its highest the Qnix is about 3" too tall. When in landscape it works fine.


----------



## CastorTroy45

Ordered a qnix matte from newegg Sunday and received it in Florida Wednesday. I ordered the non pixel perfect one and got it with no dead pixels and no BLB. This is an amazing monitor...


----------



## pooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> I purchased a monitor from Dream Seller
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> There's a line down the whole monitor. About time I turned the monitor on and tested it, it's now over the 14 day period. The seller refuses to cover it under his/her return policy and wants me to pay 150 dollars to ship it back. Do I have any recourse here? Is there anyway to fix it myself?


How many days exactly has it been? There's the Ebay money back guarantee http://pages.ebay.com/coverage/index.html or see if you can add a Squaretrade warranty to it. Squaretrade warranties typically allow up to 30days after date of purchase to add a warranty although not 100% on ebay purchases. Go straight to squaretrade.com http://www.squaretrade.com/get-warranty and get a quote for ebay item.


----------



## Captivate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> It is basically Monoprice's multi directional arm connected to a steel pole that is wielded to a flat piece of steel. It is sturdy simple and does its job. I have three of these, 2 of them have Qnix monitors on them and 1 has a 21" Asus.
> 
> When trying to put the Qnix on in portrait, even at its highest the Qnix is about 3" too tall. When in landscape it works fine.


Cool, I ordered two of these. Thanks for the small review, +rep.


----------



## TXTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> Alright just got my 2nd one of these monitors, X-star. Beautiful once again. Now I am now slightly annoyed by the poor stands, can anyone recommend a proper stand? This is linked in the OP but it says up to 23". This monitor is obviously 27" so I am not sure if it'll work.


Ergotron Neo-Flex 33-310-060

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824994001

It is adjustable for different weights. Works like a charm. Love it with the X-Star.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TXTech*
> 
> Ergotron Neo-Flex 33-310-060
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824994001
> 
> It is adjustable for different weights. Works like a charm. Love it with the X-Star.


Does this stand work in portrait? If it does then it might be worth it. If it can't provide more functionality than the monoprice one then why would anyone pay double the price? There is no further stability needed over the monprice stand so the only other factor would be cosmetics. I guess you might want to pay for a round base instead of a V shape.


----------



## TXTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Does this stand work in portrait? If it does then it might be worth it. If it can't provide more functionality than the monoprice one then why would anyone pay double the price? There is no further stability needed over the monprice stand so the only other factor would be cosmetics. I guess you might want to pay for a round base instead of a V shape.


I haven't used the monoprice stand, but the reviews say you have to use tools to make any adjustments. The Ergotron Neo-Flex you move it to where you want and it stays. No tools and very easy.

I can turn my monitor to portrait but just barely.

Not a salesman so buy what you like. I really like the Ergotron. Ordered a 2nd X-Star and a 2nd Ergotron as well.

I tried a HP stand off ebay first, for the ZR22W or whatever. Solid stand but it is not built for the weight of a 27" monitor and stayed collapsed (all the way at the bottom) and there was no adjustment.


----------



## DiceAir

I can push my screen to at 120Hz. Is there anything I should do to check if it's stable so that i don't break my Monitor. I can do 96Hz. I just want to be able to enjoy an even smoother experience. So What is the signs I should be looking for. on 96Hz I get a minor buzz but barely notice it and has been running fine for about 5-7 months now. i tried pushing 120hz the other day and my screen was displaying everything fine just tested bf4 and was running fine at 120FPS.


----------



## Captivate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TXTech*
> 
> Ergotron Neo-Flex 33-310-060
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824994001
> 
> It is adjustable for different weights. Works like a charm. Love it with the X-Star.


I actually looked at that stand but I didn't like the price. For that price I ordered two of the Monoprice ones including shipping. The Newegg one is probably a little better but oh well...


----------



## TXTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> I purchased a monitor from Dream Seller
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> There's a line down the whole monitor. About time I turned the monitor on and tested it, it's now over the 14 day period. The seller refuses to cover it under his/her return policy and wants me to pay 150 dollars to ship it back. Do I have any recourse here? Is there anyway to fix it myself?


That's odd. I purchased my X-Star from dream-seller and had no problems. Monitor is perfect. I even ordered a 2nd one. I'd recommend dream-seller.

Why did you wait 14 days before testing it? I'm sure he would have been more responsive if you had tested it within the return period. The auction clearly states the return window is 14 days.


----------



## lawson67

Hey guys i have bought the Spyder 4 pro monitor calibrating tool....and i would like some advice from anyone that uses these tools on how to set up my monitor for calibration ...
normally you would factory reset the monitor......however there is no OSD on the QNIX2710 to factory reset it before calibration...

So right now i have my Qnix running at 120hz and am using NCX ..."120hz 2.2 gamma ICC Profile"....due to the gamma shift at 120hz.....however i want to calibrate it myself so the ICC profile and colors are correct for my actual monitor using my own ICC file which i created with my new Spyder Pro...

So before i calibrate would and to put the monitor into a factory reset ...(out of the box mode).....do i deselect NCX ICC profile NCX ...("120hz 2.2 gamma ICC ").....that i am currently running?

Or do i load the .."sRGB IEC61966-2.1"...profile before i calibrate?.....i think this profile windows makes when you first connect a monitor?.....

Or do you have to deselect all ICC profiles in windows color management and tell windows not to use any profiles for the calibration process?

Any help from someone with monitor calibrating experience would be welcome....Thanks


----------



## Warsteiner

I used to work for a print shop and did a lot of monitor calibrations. The rule is that you always want to do the calibration with no profile selected. This is because you want to build a base profile that corrects the monitors color display. I always start with as baseline of a setting as I can. Also sometimes you will want to do the calibration a few times you will be surprised how different each run can be. Another tip for calibrating is to keep the light level in the room to your typical settings for when you use the computer. This means that if you game with the lights off then that is how you should calibrate. The light levels of the room will effect the profile.

Now I also had the benefit of working with 2 guys who had great eyes for color (that is what they do for a living) and they would manually tweek all my profiles after they were created to get them just right. The tool will get you close, but I have never seen one that gets it perfect.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Alright, so last night when I checked, the monitor was supposed to get here Monday. But instead, I saw the box sitting at my front door as soon as I got home. One thing that concerned me a bit was that there was no protective wrapping or anything on the box itself, it was just the box of the monitor. Anyways, I took everything out, taking pictures as I went, inspected it for physical damage. Everything looks okay so far. Right now, I've ran into a minor. I thought I had the converter that would convert the Korean plug to the USA standard, but it looks like it converts it from a different country? It won't go in. Can someone link me something from Amazon that I can order today with one day shipping and get it tomorrow?

Thank you.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The power brick uses a standard "kettle" cable (the same type PSUs use). If you have spare one it will work.
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03130-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B0000510ZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390592261&sr=8-1&keywords=kettle+lead


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> The power brick uses a standard "kettle" cable (the same type PSUs use). If you have spare one it will work.
> http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03130-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B0000510ZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390592261&sr=8-1&keywords=kettle+lead


Thank you so much! That worked! I'd rep you, but it seems like you don't get to be repped.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warsteiner*
> 
> I used to work for a print shop and did a lot of monitor calibrations. The rule is that you always want to do the calibration with no profile selected. This is because you want to build a base profile that corrects the monitors color display. I always start with as baseline of a setting as I can. Also sometimes you will want to do the calibration a few times you will be surprised how different each run can be. Another tip for calibrating is to keep the light level in the room to your typical settings for when you use the computer. This means that if you game with the lights off then that is how you should calibrate. The light levels of the room will effect the profile.
> 
> Now I also had the benefit of working with 2 guys who had great eyes for color (that is what they do for a living) and they would manually tweek all my profiles after they were created to get them just right. The tool will get you close, but I have never seen one that gets it perfect.


Thank you very much for your reply....what you say makes complete scene but i just wanted some reassurance from someone like yourself that knows and understand the process....as i do not and want to learn....so can you kindly read though below my interpretation of your instructions and the process i need to go though to ready my monitor for calibration....and also of course correct me if i am wrong.

So before i calibrate you would suggest i go into windows Color management and deselect the ICC profile i am currently using right now that corrects the gamma shift at 120hz .....and also ..."Untick"... the box in windows color management that says...."Use my settings for this device"....that surly would put windows and my current ICC profile out of the equation.....and the monitor would be running on its own at this point correct?....then once the spyder has calibrated the screen and produced a ICC profile i would the re-tick the box in color management and use my newly created profile?....is that the correct process?......thanks


----------



## Warsteiner

Yes that is correct although depending on the software you use it may automatically apply the profile for you once it is created. I know the one I used did.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

As I have said many times it's a good idea to look through this "ICC install guide" at TFT Central, especially if you are new to this stuff. There are some details re. activating them properly that are not exactly intuitive.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#install

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> Is the Monitor still worth it when i have to pay 380$ total?


Or just avoid Dream-Seller&#8230;?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TXTech*
> 
> That's odd. I purchased my X-Star from dream-seller and had no problems. Monitor is perfect. I even ordered a 2nd one. I'd recommend dream-seller.


How is that odd?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Thank you so much! That worked! I'd rep you, but it seems like you don't get to be repped.


Mods don't need no stinkin' rep!


----------



## DullBoi

Soon to join the Korean force


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warsteiner*
> 
> Yes that is correct although depending on the software you use it may automatically apply the profile for you once it is created. I know the one I used did.


Thanks very much for your time and help Warsteiner


----------



## Famzilla

Alright so I got my xstar monitor the other day and when I open video files or play certain things back on the web... this thing happens: 




Anyone have any ideas?

I'm using an AMD 7970 with no overclock, but I have overclocked my monitor to 110hz.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Watched the video. How about at 60Hz do you still have the problem? I'm not quite sure and it maybe an issue with Video Acceleration and try to disable it and check if still happens.. Also, try a different browser.


----------



## Hardrock

I get a green screen with flash video in Internet Explorer and Firefox. It seems it is caused by the Toasty -X patches for overclocking. If I unpatch my drivers then flash video works fine. Anyone got a solution for this ?


----------



## DiceAir

I can push my screen to at 120Hz. Is there anything I should do to check if it's stable so that i don't break my Monitor. I can do 96Hz. I just want to be able to enjoy an even smoother experience. So What is the signs I should be looking for. on 96Hz I get a minor buzz but barely notice it and has been running fine for about 5-7 months now. i tried pushing 120hz the other day and my screen was displaying everything fine just tested bf4 and was running fine at 120FPS.


----------



## shigueaki

Hi guys
Im about to purchase a qnix qx2710 and I've tried to get a discount for one. hehe
greem-sum said he could do a price of 315$ for me but he would need it to be done directly thru paypal.
Any problem in this? Or should I stick with another seller?

Thanks in advance


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shigueaki*
> 
> Hi guys
> Im about to purchase a qnix qx2710 and I've tried to get a discount for one. hehe
> greem-sum said he could do a price of 315$ for me but he would need it to be done directly thru paypal.
> Any problem in this? Or should I stick with another seller?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Accessorieswhole is 289 and Dream-seller is at 294 right now.


----------



## shigueaki

I was looking for Perfect Pixel, but I've been reading that its overrated...
Cheapest PP was 329$, should I try my luck and get a normal version? I'm kinda unlucky with those things and I don't like surprises...

Btw, I was thinking about purchasing a Sparta 301 (30inch, 2560x1600) but I think a qx2710 will be better purchase right? (oc and quality)

Thanks for any input from you guys


----------



## Hardrock

I get a green screen with flash video in Internet Explorer and Firefox. It seems it is caused by the Toasty -X patches for overclocking. If I unpatch my drivers then flash video works fine. Anyone got a solution for this ?

More information, I am running AMD 8350 CPU, ASUS R9 280X GPU, ASUS 990FX MOBO. I am using the latest "non Beta" version of AMD catalyst.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Hardrock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shigueaki*
> 
> I was looking for Perfect Pixel, but I've been reading that its overrated...
> Cheapest PP was 329$, should I try my luck and get a normal version? I'm kinda unlucky with those things and I don't like surprises...
> 
> Btw, I was thinking about purchasing a Sparta 301 (30inch, 2560x1600) but I think a qx2710 will be better purchase right? (oc and quality)
> 
> Thanks for any input from you guys


I bought a Pixel perfect QX27010 from Storewithastory and it has been fantastic. No dead pixels and very very minimal BLB in the right lower corner that I am not even sure is real. I did upgrade the stand to a Dell Vesa mount. As far as over clocking I have been at 115Hz for 2 months w/o any problems. I can get to 120Hz but I see occasional scan lines so I just leave it at 115Hz.

Currently he is selling them for $329

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321300835630?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf05ad2e


----------



## Pawkins

I've just upgraded from a 660ti to a r9 290, and now I have green horizontal lines in certain games, is there any way to fix this or should I return the card?

Worked perfectly on the Nvidia card.


----------



## Navoan

Im thinking of buying the Qnix 27" but i would like to know where i Can download profiles since the default isnet good after what i have read.. Also what is the expected life time of this kind of monitor does anybody know?


----------



## ideaidea

So I got my QNIX two weeks ago. The screen is really good for its price, 1 bad pixel which is only visible in tests and minor blb in the right bottom corner. Overclocking is not that great. I'm only able to run 100Hz. 120Hz shows noticable artifacts on desktop and 110Hz shows minor artifacts in games. On the other hand my MacBook PRO Retina shows WAY better colors than QNIX, much deeper red and green, QNIX seems also very greyish and not so white as I would expect from an IPS monitor. I can't see any difference between the color profiles listed on first page. Will calibrating with i1display pro help with these problems or I won't see any improvements in white, red and green?

Gotta pay $20 for customs in Norway with 25% tax rate (had to a total on $30 with extra fees from DHL) . This seems quite odd buy I don't mind







.


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> I bought a Pixel perfect QX27010 from Storewithastory and it has been fantastic. No dead pixels and very very minimal BLB in the right lower corner that I am not even sure is real. I did upgrade the stand to a Dell Vesa mount. As far as over clocking I have been at 115Hz for 2 months w/o any problems. I can get to 120Hz but I see occasional scan lines so I just leave it at 115Hz.
> 
> Currently he is selling them for $329
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321300835630?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf05ad2e


Plenty of people got the non-pixel perfect version and had the same experience. Others got the pixel perfect and still had bleed.

I don't understand why this issue keeps coming up. The pixel perfect is a scam, it is a statistical fact that you can still get screwed, and it is also a statistical fact that you will probably not get screwed without spending it. So WHY would you throw away $50?!!?

Backlight bleed is considered normal and not covered by perfect pixel. Perfect pixel usually covers 2-3 dead pixels while normal policy is 3-5 (be sure to check individual auction though) so perfect pixel comes into play only if you have EXACTLY 2 dead pixels. 1 and you aren't covered either way, 3 and you're covered either way.

Tell you what, send me $50 and if yours is bad I will trade you mine!! (Kidding of course due to shipping)


----------



## TXTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Navoan*
> 
> what is the expected life time of this kind of monitor does anybody know?


I don't think anyone really knows. It's a Samsung monitor and it doesn't run hot. Both of those facts point to a long service life.


----------



## ideaidea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TXTech*
> 
> It's a Samsung monitor and it doesn't run hot. Both of those facts point to a long service life.


That's true, it doesn't even get warm.


----------



## shigueaki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> I bought a Pixel perfect QX27010 from Storewithastory and it has been fantastic. No dead pixels and very very minimal BLB in the right lower corner that I am not even sure is real. I did upgrade the stand to a Dell Vesa mount. As far as over clocking I have been at 115Hz for 2 months w/o any problems. I can get to 120Hz but I see occasional scan lines so I just leave it at 115Hz.
> 
> Currently he is selling them for $329
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321300835630?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf05ad2e


Thanks for the input.
Still trying to decide which one I'll get.
Many users say what TelFire is saying but sellers say that if you got more than 1 dead pixel you will be awarded with a "special discount" and some you can return it at no cost. Only one that is 0-2 dead pixel was dream-seller. (I've sent some questions about dead pixel for many sellers hehe







)


----------



## wblastyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardrock*
> 
> I get a green screen with flash video in Internet Explorer and Firefox. It seems it is caused by the Toasty -X patches for overclocking. If I unpatch my drivers then flash video works fine. Anyone got a solution for this ?
> 
> More information, I am running AMD 8350 CPU, ASUS R9 280X GPU, ASUS 990FX MOBO. I am using the latest "non Beta" version of AMD catalyst.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


I had same problem with Chrome and IE. I got it working by using Opera Next, which is fine because it's based on Chromium, and disabling flash hardware acceleration.


----------



## Spartan F8

Wow look a bunch of comment about the perfect pixel scam *again*.

The perfect pixel crap is exactly the same as tossing the mechanic an extra buck and thinking he is going to give you slightly better service. Take away from that what you will. Some members will go for it others wont, just know what you are tossing money at. All mis-information that i see in the previous comments has already been addressed so i am not going to comment on it.

The advocates of the PP policy could be considered having a market based Placebo Effect


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

So on Monday I put the order in for an X-star, 1440p from dream seller. I paid them another $20 so that they give me the best. The total came out to $330+20=$350. They shipped it out Wednesday, and I got it Friday. I was expecting it to arrive on Monday, but since it arrived very quickly, I had to fix the rest of my PC up. I did in 1 day what I was planning on doing in 3 days. I'm very tired right now lol, but I will give you guys my experience with this monitor so far.

1- right out the box, I did a close expection of the pixels. Couldn't find any dead ones.

2- no stuck pixels. I checked the R, B, G colors and everything looks good.

3- BLB is what I'm a bit disappointed about. It's there, but it's not noticeable in anyway when the monitor is in use. Even in the darker scenes of games, or in videos, the BLB is not noticeable in anyway.

4- I OCed the monitor to 96hz. I didn't try pushing it any further, not because the monitor couldn't, but because I don't have the hardware to push games like BF4 to 120hz at the settings I played at. Once pushing it to 96Hz, I noticed no changes to picture quality.

Here are some pictures:


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> So on Monday I put the order in for an X-star, 1440p from dream seller. I paid them another $20 so that they give me the best. The total came out to $330+20=$350. They shipped it out Wednesday, and I got it Friday. I was expecting it to arrive on Monday, but since it arrived very quickly, I had to fix the rest of my PC up. I did in 1 day what I was planning on doing in 3 days. I'm very tired right now lol, but I will give you guys my experience with this monitor so far.
> 
> 1- right out the box, I did a close expection of the pixels. Couldn't find any dead ones.
> 
> 2- no stuck pixels. I checked the R, B, G colors and everything looks good.
> 
> 3- BLB is what I'm a bit disappointed about. It's there, but it's not noticeable in anyway when the monitor is in use. Even in the darker scenes of games, or in videos, the BLB is not noticeable in anyway.
> 
> 4- I OCed the monitor to 96hz. I didn't try pushing it any further, not because the monitor couldn't, but because I don't have the hardware to push games like BF4 to 120hz at the settings I played at. Once pushing it to 96Hz, I noticed no changes to picture quality.
> 
> Here are some pictures:


Grats on your new monitor! I agree, I honestly can't tell any difference whatsoever between 60 and 96









Keep in mind that BLB is pretty much unavoidable. It's potentially there even on more expensive, branded monitors. It's just something that happens in monitor creation process and since you can't see it when the monitor is on anything but black screen, they don't care to fix it. The reason most of these panels were sold to QNIX and not used for SAMSUNG is almost always because of minor BLB. To me, it's well worth the money savings. By the time I would have saved up for my first 1440 monitor, I can be picking up a second


----------



## Gravediggaz

hey guys I am up to the overclocking part in CRU where you copy and paste, I can copy but it won't paste? and no blank window pops up, anybody know what I am doing wrong?


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gravediggaz*
> 
> hey guys I am up to the overclocking part in CRU where you copy and paste, I can copy but it won't paste? and no blank window pops up, anybody know what I am doing wrong?


I was confused by this as well, since there are multiple things you can copy/paste. What you want to do is select the active monitor, click the detailed resolution that should be there by default, click the "edit" button located in the "Deatiled Resolutions" box, then press the "copy" button that comes up in that window, click "cancel", then click "Add" (again in Detailed Resolutions area) and paste the info there. If paste is greyed out at this point, it is because the settings are already set to what they should be, just change the refresh rate and add it and you should be good to go (don't forget to reboot).

does that help?


----------



## Gravediggaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> I was confused by this as well, since there are multiple things you can copy/paste. What you want to do is select the active monitor, click the detailed resolution that should be there by default, click the "edit" button located in the "Deatiled Resolutions" box, then press the "copy" button that comes up in that window, click "cancel", then click "Add" (again in Detailed Resolutions area) and paste the info there. If paste is greyed out at this point, it is because the settings are already set to what they should be, just change the refresh rate and add it and you should be good to go (don't forget to reboot).
> 
> does that help?


thanks so much yeah they were greyed out, how do I know if I have successfully have the monitor running at 120hz? and also on my desktop screen I have a faded red lines blinking on top of the screen and when I play battlefield 4 I get the green lines?


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gravediggaz*
> 
> thanks so much yeah they were greyed out, how do I know if I have successfully have the monitor running at 120hz? and also on my desktop screen I have a faded red lines blinking on top of the screen?


Well, the faded red lines probably mean your overclock is slightly unstable. Try 110 or 96 hz.

I think most people still run at 60hz in desktop mode because there's no real benefit and chances are that like with most OCs, it will decrease the life of your monitor (albeit marginally)

But you can make sure it is working in game by setting your resolution to 2560x1440 and making sure refresh rate js set to 120 (or however many) hz. If it doesn't show you anything but 59 or 60 hz, something isn't quite right...either the game doesn't support it (only a few) or something didn't take. When I did it I kinda had to delete the profile and remake it once.

And also keep in mind that games switch to their own resolution settings in full screen but in windowed you just run off your desktop settings (in which case you would probably have to up the hz in either nvidia control center or catalyst, but it's probably better to just run games fullscreen and keep desktop set to 60)


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys question, is there a guide anywhere to removing the matte film on these monitors? I want to pick up a pixel perfect one (after a horrendous problem with green-sum), and the only reasonably priced ones are matte. Any info is appreciated


----------



## DiceAir

So i have my screen on 120Hz on 465MHz. Will i see brightness degradation over time? I have this feeling my screen was brighter last night. Today it feels a bit dark to me, maybe the light and how it's shining


----------



## CastorTroy45

Does anyone know the difference between the qx2710 and the qx2710 evolution II?


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shigueaki*
> 
> My main question was if its ok make a transaction outside of ebay with green-sun (he said that could go down to 315$for pp version only if made directly thru paypal, maybe he wants to avoid ebay charges).


Keep in mind that if you do decide to go through PayPal directly, you will not have eBay buyer protection, which makes it a lot easier to force them to replace it since they care about their feedback. However you will still have PayPal protection, which covers you although it will be more of a pain if anything goes wrong.


----------



## vedranius

Should I get Yamakasi DS270 or Qnix QX2710 for gaming and video production?

Thanks!









EDIT: Also, can you suggest me any good seller from eBay which has most warrant "good-things" like BLB, dead pixels returns and so on...?


----------



## shigueaki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Keep in mind that if you do decide to go through PayPal directly, you will not have eBay buyer protection, which makes it a lot easier to force them to replace it since they care about their feedback. However you will still have PayPal protection, which covers you although it will be more of a pain if anything goes wrong.


Thanks.
I'll wait for another seller reply.


----------



## shigueaki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> Should I get Yamakasi DS270 or Qnix QX2710 for gaming and video production?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also, can you suggest me any good seller from eBay which has most warrant "good-things" like BLB, dead pixels returns and so on...?


Good question, but if I recall, in OP they say that PLS panels are better than IPS. And qx2710 can be oc. Not sure about yamakasi ds270..


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So i have my screen on 120Hz on 465MHz. Will i see brightness degradation over time? I have this feeling my screen was brighter last night. Today it feels a bit dark to me, maybe the light and how it's shining


you shouldn't see any degradeation overtime but yes upping the refresh rate cuasing dimming...you need to apply a color profile check the first post..this will brighten it up some etc..









Also to post above yes PLS is better I have both the pls is brighter and more colorful overall.


----------



## Gravediggaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Well, the faded red lines probably mean your overclock is slightly unstable. Try 110 or 96 hz.
> 
> I think most people still run at 60hz in desktop mode because there's no real benefit and chances are that like with most OCs, it will decrease the life of your monitor (albeit marginally)
> 
> But you can make sure it is working in game by setting your resolution to 2560x1440 and making sure refresh rate js set to 120 (or however many) hz. If it doesn't show you anything but 59 or 60 hz, something isn't quite right...either the game doesn't support it (only a few) or something didn't take. When I did it I kinda had to delete the profile and remake it once.
> 
> And also keep in mind that games switch to their own resolution settings in full screen but in windowed you just run off your desktop settings (in which case you would probably have to up the hz in either nvidia control center or catalyst, but it's probably better to just run games fullscreen and keep desktop set to 60)


thanks again worked like a charm


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> you shouldn't see any degradeation overtime but yes upping the refresh rate cuasing dimming...you need to apply a color profile check the first post..this will brighten it up some etc..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also to post above yes PLS is better I have both the pls is brighter and more colorful overall.


Thanks Was just worried. Also is there something like PCB getting to hot? I don't know how hot it can get before I should worry


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Thanks Was just worried. Also is there something like PCB getting to hot? I don't know how hot it can get before I should worry


From what I know 460mhz is the max the board should be pushed so ur good u could even tighten the timings in clu and get below 460 if possible but 465 is fine as a lot of folks have been running higher for months now without issues...of course only time will tell. Also just ffel the back of panel and check if it feels real warm or sometin but haven't heard of any over heating issues...as long your not in a sauna or sometin lol


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> From what I know 460mhz is the max the board should be pushed so ur good u could even tighten the timings in clu and get below 460 if possible but 465 is fine as a lot of folks have been running higher for months now without issues...of course only time will tell. Also just ffel the back of panel and check if it feels real warm or sometin but haven't heard of any over heating issues...as long your not in a sauna or sometin lol


the only place where it feels warm is where you plug in the power. Other than that it doesn't feel to warm


----------



## Gilles3000

I was looking into buying a Qnix evoII from AccesoriesWhole, but i noticed quite a bit of difference in pricing for the same monitors. Should i just get the cheapest one or is it possible that i'll get a better monitor if i get one thats slightly more expensive?

Besides that, the current lowest prices that'll ship to me is from AW at $314, Is this on the the low or high side or just average for current pricing?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I was looking into buying a Qnix evoII from Accessorize, but i noticed quite a bit of difference in pricing for the same monitors. Should i just get the cheapest one or is it possible that i'll get a better monitor if i get one thats slightly more expensive?
> 
> Besides that, the current lowest prices that'll ship to me is from AW at $314, Is this on the the low or high side or just average for current pricing?


Hi i bought from mine from AccesoriesWhole and paid a bit extra for pixel perfect...he seemed to be the only seller that would guarantee me.. "NOT ONE DEAD PIXEL" and indeed it not have one dead pixel when it came....some clam its a con for the seller to milk you for more cash etc...However i see it this way...if it comes with any dead pixels you cant live with you have the support of ebay and you know you will get your money back....for me that alone is worth paying the extra for....as i did NOT want any dead pixels..

However bear in mind that all these screens are all A- stock ....expect Back light bleed....i believe every single monitor that these sellers obtain have Backlight and is the main reason they get them...if you have the confidence to strip it and repair it then they are a total bargain...even if you think you can live with backlight bleed then get one...however if you could not live with backlight bleed and do not have the confidence to repair it...then think about weather you should buy one.

On a footnote they normally have back light bleed because they are sat in a bent metal frame....with some care and taking your time it is not a hard job to strip the frame off the monitor and straighten it...then put the screen back in the frame.....then you have got yourself a pixel perfect A+ monitor for half the price of a Branded version


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Thanks Was just worried. Also is there something like PCB getting to hot? I don't know how hot it can get before I should worry


You should NOT see any degradation overtime because you are not upping the voltage to overclock those monitors...also the PCB boarded does not get any hotter than at 60HZ for the same reason...mine runs 120hz 24/7 perfectly...


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi i bought from mine from AccesoriesWhole and paid a bit extra for pixel perfect...he seemed to be the only seller that would guarantee me.. "NOT ONE DEAD PIXEL" and indeed it not have one dead pixel when it came....some clam its a con for the seller to milk you for more cash etc...However i see it this way...if it comes with any dead pixels you cant live with you have the support of ebay and you know you will get your money back....for me that alone is worth paying the extra for....as i did NOT want any dead pixels..
> 
> However bear in mind that all these screens are all A- stock ....expect Back light bleed....i believe every single monitor that these sellers obtain have Backlight and is the main reason they get them...if you have the confidence to strip it and repair it then they are a total bargain...even if you think you can live with backlight bleed then get one...however if you could not live with backlight bleed and do not have the confidence to repair it...then think about weather you should buy one.
> 
> On a footnote they normally have back light bleed because they are sat in a bent metal frame....with some care and taking your time it is not a hard job to strip the frame off the monitor and straighten it...then put the screen back in the frame.....then you have got yourself a pixel perfect A+ monitor for half the price of a Branded version


Currently the only pixel perfect accessorieswhole is offering is priced at a hefty $399, which imo is getting too close to branded ips/pls monitors, Have they always been priced like this or should i wait for the price to drop again?

As for the back light bleed, I've already looked into it, and it doesn't look like too much of a challenge. I'm quite used to doing laptop repairs and this doesn't look much more difficult tbh.

Anyway, thanks for the quick response


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gravediggaz*
> 
> thanks again worked like a charm


For 120hz Try setting your totals in CRU to 2652x1445 this should get you somewhere close to the 450 target pixel clock and give you a better signal, this could make the difference for you getting a totally stable 120hz overclock


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Currently the only pixel perfect accessorieswhole is offering is priced at a hefty $399, which imo is getting too close to branded ips/pls monitors, Have they always been priced like this or should i wait for the price to drop again?
> 
> As for the back light bleed, I've already looked into it, and it doesn't look like too much of a challenge. I'm quite used to doing laptop repairs and this doesn't look much more difficult tbh.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the quick response


I think mine was about the same price..however that's still about £200 cheaper if not more than i could get a branded 2560x1440 pls/ips monitor that runs at 120hz in the UK......speaking for myself totaly worth it.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I think mine was about the same price..however that's still about £200 cheaper if not more than i could get a branded 2560x1440 pls/ips monitor that runs at 120hz in the UK......speaking for myself totaly worth it.


Considering how much the dead pixel on my phone troubled me, and caused me to return it twice, getting the pp one might be the best solution, i think i'm going to look around a bit more for a maybe somewhat cheaper x-star but if not it'll be the pp qnix. Thanks for your advice.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I have a quick question. I'm running an X-Star from an R9-290 card. I need to downgrade its drivers so that will entail first uninstalling the current drivers and then reinstalling the older ones. While the drivers are uninstalled, with the monitor be unusable? The only reason I ask is because I gave me 1080p monitor away to my brother and this is the only one I have.


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> I have a quick question. I'm running an X-Star from an R9-290 card. I need to downgrade its drivers so that will entail first uninstalling the current drivers and then reinstalling the older ones. While the drivers are uninstalled, with the monitor be unusable? The only reason I ask is because I gave me 1080p monitor away to my brother and this is the only one I have.


Should be fine, worst case just boot into safe mode. When you think about it, a computer needs to work without graphics drivers to install an OS (or they just embed simple drivers in the MoBo/GPU etc).


----------



## amorello

Just purchased a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll. I'll get it in a few days and I hope it's a good one








Which cables did I need to buy for better overclocking? I cannot seem to find them.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys thought I'd ask again. Long story short, I had trouble with green-sum sending me absolutely terrible quality panels multiple times, so instead I'm thinking about buying a pixel perfect matte display and removing the matte film. I just was hoping if someone could confirm the method and if there's a guide? I saw on hardforums that one person was able to do it pretty easily by just placing wet paper towels over the panel and leaving them for 6 hours ish and then slowly peeling the film off, can anyone confirm?? Thanks


----------



## bond32

Question - to actually get the experience of the refresh rate, of say 120hz, the video card needs to be putting out at least 120 fps right?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Question - to actually get the experience of the refresh rate, of say 120hz, the video card needs to be putting out at least 120 fps right?


Average of over 60 fps (to be over the 60hz of normal monitors) and up to an average of 120fps yes. If you go over 120fps, that won't make any difference because your screen is only capable of displaying 120 fps (120hz)


----------



## HOTDOGS

How would these compare to the Catleap monitors?


----------



## HBlakeH

Hey guys, I currently have a QNIX 2710 Evo 2 Glossy. I am looking at getting a second because I love it.

I wanted to know the difference between the Glossy and the ones marked "Tempered Glass". Does anyone know if they are the same, just renamed, or if they are a completely different type of glass? I would like one just like my Glossy because I don't like Matte displays, but the glossy one I bought 6 months ago is now listed at $700 by dream-seller, and the Tempered Glass is $310.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HBlakeH*
> 
> Hey guys, I currently have a QNIX 2710 Evo 2 Glossy. I am looking at getting a second because I love it.
> 
> I wanted to know the difference between the Glossy and the ones marked "Tempered Glass". Does anyone know if they are the same, just renamed, or if they are a completely different type of glass? I would like one just like my Glossy because I don't like Matte displays, but the glossy one I bought 6 months ago is now listed at $700 by dream-seller, and the Tempered Glass is $310.


There is no more glossy hence the 700 price tag. Tempered glass is exactly that, glass over matte. I still think it looks great.


----------



## ColdFlo

Anyone find any kvm switches for these things that can do more than 60hz? I think its a hopeless cause best kvm switch I could have had iffy longevity and was 200 dollars.

http://www.aten.com/products/productItem.php?model_no=CS1782A

For anther 100 bucks you can just get another monitor which is what I think Im going to do use my old 2600k for forums and use this new 4930k for games lol I'm getting 150 to 200 frames in Crysis 3 with 2560x1440 high textures and overall graphics. Thing about it is its playable and I can actually win at this resolution which was impossible with the 2600k gtx680 setup i originally had. Picked up that masterpass msi 780 off newegg for 420 now I got 780 Sli Crysis 3 likes 12 cores hyperthreaded more than 6 straight cores which I found odd gave me as much as an extra 50 frames boost in some situations. Still have yet to finish tweaking this monitor but I'll do it one day this week since I'm perfecting my setups.

I just want a DVI cable with a simple switch in it and 2 dvi connectors for each of my pcs(why can't something this simple be made instead of a KVM with a processing unit(doesn't this add latency anyway)). I want the same thing for my audio 2 with diodes(I wonder which diodes are the most transparent.....) so one sound card doesn't spill into the other and mute the sound. Right now I'm just using remote desktop to access the old pc, but this is slowing down my plans for quadboot.......... Might have to get that good monitor arm and debezel a dual one portrait for browsing chatting reading and one cinema for mainstream.

Best ICC profiles for these monitors are here http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/LS27B970DS/ZA.
Make sure you add it ONE LEVEL DEEPER AS SYSTEM DEFAULTS IN CONTROL PANEL COLOR MANAGEMENT. You can extract the icc profiles with winrar or universal extractor or something or just install it and it will show up in device manager as the top level Samsung Monitor with the same internal panel(it will then download that really sleek clean bezel and install it with the replicator *).

*replicator not included


----------



## ColdFlo

Your gpu is always putting out the refresh rate gaming fps only has to do with games but yes to see that refresh low latency in games your graphics setup has to be capable. Be warned Sli doesnt scale like it used to. I think the problem is most games are coded for few processor cores and tons of frames on newer games without allot of symmetric multiprocessing is just not possible. I think my 8800gtx sli was faster or just as fast in CS GO as gtx 780 SLI. New cards really only make the latest games tolerable and playable at high graphics levels(not usually ultra) don't expect them to give you huge boosts on old games like in the past(which I have to say now that I finally have a quasi god rig it really is only good for one game, but I did buy an e6600 and 8800gtx to play Crysis and was letdown bigtime I guess in one way or another this makes up for it). I really like Crysis 3 but the richboy community is all shisters and cheaters they have reduced the game to a residue of hackers, few servers, crap people but the game looks good and I can cuss and give them a taste of their own medicine over the mic................







which seems to makeup for the shortcomings nicely(maybe I just want to trashtalk the trash).

TN lightboost is crap I am officially sure this was the best buy at the time(maybe another korean overclockable ips is out now infact I think people linked me a couple crossover? shimian? I can't remember now been awhile. I dont see the blur in fps games and if it is there it resolves very fast when the pic stops moving so its like free non system taxing motion blur if nothing else. 4k LCD from Dell and Asus is getting cheaper but its locked at 60hz and will be even harder to drive.

Oh yeah one more thing YES YOU DO NEED PCI E 3.O DONT LISTEN TO THOSE IDIOT REVIEWERS. They are only testing one card in the 16x slot. My X79 board has 2 x16 3.0 slots and trust me at these resolutions vs PCIE 2.0 8x from my 2600k this is much better the thing is with high res those frames and the streaming textures are passed across the PCIE links so for MultiGPU High Resolution High Alternate Frame Rendering PCIE 3.0 is an absolute must x16 is better but x8 3.0 is all that is required. This can make up to 100 frame difference in certain gaming instances(not average frames just frames in certain situations).


----------



## HBlakeH

Looks like I'll just get the matte one for the two sides of my triple setup. I have read in this thread that the tempered glass ones have had some issues with dust and stuff. Hopefully it won't be too noticeable... Does anyone know why the glossy ones are no longer made?


----------



## iluvkfc

Anyone know if there is any difference between this monitor and all the others? It's a bit cheaper than the rest and the return period is longer (apart from that it seems identical to the others) but is there a catch? Does it come with the dual-link DVI cable?


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> Anyone know if there is any difference between this monitor and all the others? It's a bit cheaper than the rest and the return period is longer (apart from that it seems identical to the others) but is there a catch? Does it come with the dual-link DVI cable?


Looks like the same monitor to me, can't comment on any of the extras or the other stuff. The 30 day return is still "buyer pays shipping" though.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> How would these compare to the Catleap monitors?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


See any IPS vs PLS thread and take out overclocking side effects for catleaps(2B)


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> See any IPS vs PLS thread and take out overclocking side effects for catleaps(2B)


Thanks for the fast response!


----------



## Fiduciary

In case anyone is interested I did a little bit of excel analysis to see what percentage of monitors from both dream-seller and green-sum have which type of problem. They're very close given the sample size, but dream-seller came out slightly ahead in all categories. The data is the stuff from page one of this thread, so thanks to everyone that filled that out! Looks like I'm going to grab one from dream-seller.


----------



## iluvkfc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> Looks like the same monitor to me, can't comment on any of the extras or the other stuff. The 30 day return is still "buyer pays shipping" though.


Well I ordered it, it better come with at least the DVI cable and power adapter.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

I have decided to buy 3 of these Qnix Evolution II's for a 7680x1440 setup and had a few questions about it for anyone else who is already doing this:

1. Is it possible to do a 120hz triple monitor setup with only a dual SLI? I know that you have to use the bypass version of the Qnix to get 120hz which means DVI-D and a dual SLI would only have 2x DVI-D ports. Is there a way around this or is tri SLI required?

2. How difficult are these to de-bezel?

3. Does anyone have any recommendations on a good VESA stand for this setup?

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmille24*
> 
> I purchased a monitor from Dream Seller
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> There's a line down the whole monitor. About time I turned the monitor on and tested it, it's now over the 14 day period. The seller refuses to cover it under his/her return policy and wants me to pay 150 dollars to ship it back. Do I have any recourse here? Is there anyway to fix it myself?


Well I got mine in from dream-seller today and there is also a line from top to bottom that can be seen on blue and green screens but not red, black, our white. Is it the cable or the monitor?

Not only did I buy the pixel perfect version, but I also paid him $50 extra to make sure I got one that had no issues. If it's not the cable, then I'm pissed.

I'll report back later with pictures and any responses I get from dream-seller.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Just a quick question.. If ya overclock these monitors to around 120hz can u sue the nvidia 3d vision glasses with it? I couldnt find any real info on there website about other monitors working with these glasses.


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taint3dBulge*
> 
> Just a quick question.. If ya overclock these monitors to around 120hz can u sue the nvidia 3d vision glasses with it? I couldnt find any real info on there website about other monitors working with these glasses.


I'm not positive, but my quick googling said that it's probably not possible.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> In case anyone is interested I did a little bit of excel analysis to see what percentage of monitors from both dream-seller and green-sum have which type of problem. They're very close given the sample size, but dream-seller came out slightly ahead in all categories. The data is the stuff from page one of this thread, so thanks to everyone that filled that out! Looks like I'm going to grab one from dream-seller.


I don't think that would be a fair comparison. Since you're comparing unequal amounts of data. You should calculate the standard deviation for each, and see how they compare that way.


----------



## Fiduciary

Sure, but I think the percentages combat the uneven number enough...plus I don't feel like doing any more in-depth analysis.


----------



## Hegro

Sorry I haven't looked in this thread in a long time. My X-Star is still going strong 8 months later ! Yay!

Anyways I have had a couple people message me about a problem I posted about in this thread before looking for an answer. It is related to the bezel warping. Right above the name 'x-star' the bezel warps out away from the screen. It isn't that big of an issue but I have some down time and feel like looking for an answer. Thanks for any help anyone can give me!


----------



## Fiduciary

If anyone's kicking around and could confirm something for me, that'd be great. I'm very close to pulling the pin, just wanna confirm I'm getting the right thing. I want the X-Star that everyone's talking about that can be OC'd, and I think it's this link, but I'm 99% sure, not 100%. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190 I don't see anything about the bypass feature which I thought was on that one too, which is the only thing that gives me pause. So, that's the right one, yeah?


----------



## picket23

Does anyone know if you can put a Dell u2412's stand on a QNIX? I have never looked at monitor stands before, so I've got nfi what the go is. I should be able to borrow one to check but I figured I'd ask first to see if there was any chance of success..

edit: I thought the Dell stand screwed in for some reason, looks like that is not the case


----------



## hodgempls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> If anyone's kicking around and could confirm something for me, that'd be great. I'm very close to pulling the pin, just wanna confirm I'm getting the right thing. I want the X-Star that everyone's talking about that can be OC'd, and I think it's this link, but I'm 99% sure, not 100%. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190 I don't see anything about the bypass feature which I thought was on that one too, which is the only thing that gives me pause. So, that's the right one, yeah?


That is the one you want.


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> If anyone's kicking around and could confirm something for me, that'd be great. I'm very close to pulling the pin, just wanna confirm I'm getting the right thing. I want the X-Star that everyone's talking about that can be OC'd, and I think it's this link, but I'm 99% sure, not 100%. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190 I don't see anything about the bypass feature which I thought was on that one too, which is the only thing that gives me pause. So, that's the right one, yeah?


Looks good, pull the trigger. As I stated in the post above yours, mine is still going strong 8 months later. Your chance at overclocking is totally random I believe. Some units can hit 90 overclocked and some can hit 130. Just got to take a leap of faith.


----------



## hodgempls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *picket23*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can put a Dell u2412's stand on a QNIX? I have never looked at monitor stands before, so I've got nfi what the go is. I should be able to borrow one to check but I figured I'd ask first to see if there was any chance of success..


In looking at the pictures, it appears to snap into place and does not use screws.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys thought I'd ask again. Long story short, I had trouble with green-sum sending me absolutely terrible quality panels multiple times, so instead I'm thinking about buying a pixel perfect matte display and removing the matte film. I just was hoping if someone could confirm the method and if there's a guide? I saw on hardforums that one person was able to do it pretty easily by just placing wet paper towels over the panel and leaving them for 6 hours ish and then slowly peeling the film off, can anyone confirm?? Thanks


----------



## Fiduciary

Thanks Hegro and Hodgempls, I just pulled the trigger. Can't wait to get my hands on it!


----------



## madhatter01

I just got my Qnix and seems to have no dead or stuck pixels. BLB is ok. Here is my issue. When I bump it up to 96hz I get bad image retention after 10 mins. If I leave chrome open I get the bars going across my screen for 10-30 mins when I minimize. Is this a timing issue (timing below)? Yes I did try searching but 1200+ pages is tough to go through. Also would this be relate to the panel or PCB, I have a spare pcb I could test.

Video card 2x MSi Gaming Amd R9 290


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hodgempls*
> 
> In looking at the pictures, it appears to snap into place and does not use screws.


It uses screws. 2. That u have to take the pannel completely apart to get to. Yhe bezel snaps together in 100 spots. You have to watch the cables that connect the power button to the ppcb on the pannel. It took about a hour to do myn. But the desk mount i have is so awesome. Totally worth the time. Ill post a pic in a min.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> I just got my Qnix and seems to have no dead or stuck pixels. BLB is ok. Here is my issue. When I bump it up to 96hz I get bad image retention after 10 mins. If I leave chrome open I get the bars going across my screen for 10-30 mins when I minimize. Is this a timing issue (timing below)? Yes I did try searching but 1200+ pages is tough to go through. Also would this be relate to the panel or PCB, I have a spare pcb I could test.
> 
> Video card 2x MSi Gaming Amd R9 290




Try those (for 120, but fine for 96). Also, make sure your cable is firmly placed.


----------



## madhatter01

At 120hz I get a red line across the screen. I can do 110hz fine, but I figured since 96hz gives image retention would 110hz just do it worse. Also I am using a Monoprice 10ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D cable. Could it be the cable is too long?


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> Thanks Hegro and Hodgempls, I just pulled the trigger. Can't wait to get my hands on it!


Awesome! Shipping is stupid fast. Got mine from Korea in 3 days.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> At 120hz I get a red line across the screen. I can do 110hz fine, but I figured since 96hz gives image retention would 110hz just do it worse. Also I am using a Monoprice 10ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D cable. Could it be the cable is too long?


The timings can be the same for any refresh rate. I meant to use the above timings, but change the refresh rate from 120 (shown in the picture) to 96.

Length seems to matter more with these cables than quality. You should try the stock cable if you still have trouble with the timings.


----------



## madhatter01

Ok I copied them and will test tomorrow. I will also test the cable. Thank you. If anyone else has an idea let me know.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> Ok I copied them and will test tomorrow. I will also test the cable. Thank you. If anyone else has an idea let me know.


When it comes to image retention, there's really not much you can do about it. I have the exact same thing, like many others in this forum. I've just learned to live with it, it actually gets a little better with time, atleast in my experience. (I've had mine for about three months running at 110hz the whole time).
Gaming/movies in fullscreen will get rid of it. Alternatively you can set it to 60hz when you're working with documents or just browsing the web.


----------



## madhatter01

Ordered a Monoprice DVI-D 6ft 24AWG CL2 cable. Hoping that will clear up some issues vs Monoprice 10ft 28 AWG.


----------



## Aximous

Just got my X-Star from dreamseller, shipped with Fedex arrived in mint condition, had to pay 27% VAT and no income tax in Hungary, feel free to add this to the OP.

I found no dead pixels on the monitor, very very little BLB on the 2 bottom corners, not even worth mentioning tbh. Looks like it does 120Hz with the stock cable, so I'm very happy with it


----------



## n00bftw

found an application called CPKeeper which forces a icc color profile to stick during gaming and such, its a must if you game, some1 has probably allready mentioned it but it works perfectly and i am no longer having the problem were my icc 120hz profile doesn't work while gaming









do a google search for it or check the link i posted, i have also attached the file for a hassle free download









CPKeeperzipfile 3555k .zip file


iURL=http://gwasbish.free.fr/cpk/]http://goebish.free.fr/cpk/[/URL]

=

INSTRUCTIONS -

If you do not have a .icc or .icm file, click the [*] button to grab and save your current gamma ramp to file.

Click Apply to apply selected ICC profiles to monitors
Check Lock profile(s) to try to avoid other applications to override your ICC profile.
Click Reset to reset to your default windows ICC profile


----------



## htram516

I just purchased the X-Star DP2710 from dream-seller on Ebay, so far so good with ZERO dead pixels and very minimal backlighting that I don't even notice it.

I do however have some questions regarding overclocking---

1. I managed to use CRU with my EVGA GTX 570 and overclocked the monitor to 120 HZ, it was extremely stable on during desktop use and when I played Guild Wars 2. But I noticed when streaming a video on Netflix that there was some minor red "lines" flickering on the screen from time to time... nothing major but slightly annoying. Is it safe to run the monitor at 120HZ if this is occuring?

2. I also noticed that when overclocking it to 120hz the screen gets darker than when it's at a normal 60hz. I read on Hard Forums that this is normal when overclocking the monitor and that the gamma needs to be adjusted in the Nvidia Control Panel... Here's where I'm confused.. I'm running the Asus PB278Q.icc from TFT Central and if I go into Nvidia display and try to adjust the color / gamma, won't it revert back to stock settings and remove the Asus .icc that I was using?

3. Dream-seller did not ship a convertor for the plug that came with the monitor so I switched it out with a plug from an old PSU, is this safe?

4. Lastly, does running the monitor at 120hz vs 60hz make any difference at all if I'm not gaming and just using the monitor for Lightroom / photo editing?

Thank you in advance, I am thoroughly enjoying this monitor and would not have pulled the gun on it if it weren't for this forum.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> found an application called CPKeeper which forces a icc color profile to stick during gaming and such, its a must if you game, some1 has probably allready mentioned it but it works perfectly and i am no longer having the problem were my icc 120hz profile doesn't work while gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do a google search for it or check the link i posted, i have also attached the file for a hassle free download
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPKeeperzipfile 3555k .zip file
> 
> 
> iURL=http://gwasbish.free.fr/cpk/]http://goebish.free.fr/cpk/[/URL]
> 
> =
> 
> INSTRUCTIONS -
> 
> If you do not have a .icc or .icm file, click the [*] button to grab and save your current gamma ramp to file.
> 
> Click Apply to apply selected ICC profiles to monitors
> Check Lock profile(s) to try to avoid other applications to override your ICC profile.
> Click Reset to reset to your default windows ICC profile


What games have you tested with it? It seems newer games don't always work.


----------



## n00bftw

Iv only tested bf4 and it works after i used that tool so i guess it wil work the same way with all games


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> Iv only tested bf4 and it works after i used that tool so i guess it wil work the same way with all games


Got to try this out later today.. Can't wait!


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htram516*
> 
> I just purchased the X-Star DP2710 from dream-seller on Ebay, so far so good with ZERO dead pixels and very minimal backlighting that I don't even notice it.
> 
> I do however have some questions regarding overclocking---
> 
> 1. I managed to use CRU with my EVGA GTX 570 and overclocked the monitor to 120 HZ, it was extremely stable on during desktop use and when I played Guild Wars 2. But I noticed when streaming a video on Netflix that there was some minor red "lines" flickering on the screen from time to time... nothing major but slightly annoying. Is it safe to run the monitor at 120HZ if this is occuring?
> 
> 2. I also noticed that when overclocking it to 120hz the screen gets darker than when it's at a normal 60hz. I read on Hard Forums that this is normal when overclocking the monitor and that the gamma needs to be adjusted in the Nvidia Control Panel... Here's where I'm confused.. I'm running the Asus PB278Q.icc from TFT Central and if I go into Nvidia display and try to adjust the color / gamma, won't it revert back to stock settings and remove the Asus .icc that I was using?
> 
> 3. Dream-seller did not ship a convertor for the plug that came with the monitor so I switched it out with a plug from an old PSU, is this safe?
> 
> 4. Lastly, does running the monitor at 120hz vs 60hz make any difference at all if I'm not gaming and just using the monitor for Lightroom / photo editing?
> 
> Thank you in advance, I am thoroughly enjoying this monitor and would not have pulled the gun on it if it weren't for this forum.


1.) There is no definitive answer, but I would just drop it to 110 or something to eliminate the lines.

2.) I use the .icc from http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/11100 for both 96 and 120 hz (my color doesn't change much between these). As for adjusting these profiles, I recommend using QuickGamma to adjust sRGB. It should just apply the changes on top of the profile you have loaded.

3.) It's fine.

4.) I notice a huge difference between just 96 hz and 60 hz on the desktop. I tried switching back to 60 and it felt incredibly unresponsive and unsmooth. I never bother going below 96 hz because the PCB supports up to a 450 MHz pixel clock for safe usage.


----------



## madhatter01

Ok to clarify.

1. Set windows desktop to 60hz to avoid image retention.

2. Set games to higher hz. 96hz or 110hz.

3. Short cable may make 120 hz work? I have a Monoprice 10ft and will drop to 6ft 24 AWG. I get a red line across the screen when I set it at 120hz, can this be fixed with a short cable? Also if mine cant do 120hz is that related to the PCB or Panel?

4. What ICC profile should I use since I will be doing 60Hz on desktop and higher in gaming?

Thank for all your help guys.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> Ok to clarify.
> 
> 1. Set windows desktop to 60hz to avoid image retention.
> 
> 2. Set games to higher hz. 96hz or 110hz.
> 
> 3. Short cable may make 120 hz work? I have a Monoprice 10ft and will drop to 6ft 24 AWG. I get a red line across the screen when I set it at 120hz, can this be fixed with a short cable? Also if mine cant do 120hz is that related to the PCB or Panel?
> 
> 4. What ICC profile should I use since I will be doing 60Hz on desktop and higher in gaming?
> 
> Thank for all your help guys.


1.) You can if you find it helps, but I don't get image retention even at 144 Hz (I don't run it at that of course because the panel isn't fast enough to display it accurately).

2.) I run the desktop at 96 Hz and games at 120 Hz.

3.) You could easily check by just using the stock cable. It's not so bad. I think the PCB is what limits overclocking in certain cases, since that is what allows the overclocking in the first place. The ASUS and Samsung monitors that use this panel don't overclock anywhere near as high, if at all.

4.) Try the Asus PB278Q v3.icc profile, I don't have a link though, tftcentral I think.


----------



## n00bftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Got to try this out later today.. Can't wait!


let me know if it works pal ? I thought i was the only 1 with this issue, apparantly not, i can now make out whats going on in dark maps when oc'd to 120


----------



## madhatter01

Could the PCB effect image retention? I bought the first Qnix and it had one stuck red pixel. I order a 2nd one and it came perfect. I am happy with 96hz, but want to kill the image retention. 120hz is nice dont get we wrong, I just fill 96hz is safe and looks good. Could the cable or PCB cause image retention or is Image retention due to the Panel? What causes Image Retention?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I have decided to buy 3 of these Qnix Evolution II's for a 7680x1440 setup and had a few questions about it for anyone else who is already doing this:
> 
> 1. Is it possible to do a 120hz triple monitor setup with only a dual SLI? I know that you have to use the bypass version of the Qnix to get 120hz which means DVI-D and a dual SLI would only have 2x DVI-D ports. Is there a way around this or is tri SLI required?
> 
> 2. How difficult are these to de-bezel?
> 
> 3. Does anyone have any recommendations on a good VESA stand for this setup?
> 
> Thanks for any help.


Still looking for some help on this if anyone has a chance. Most specifically question #1. Thanks again.


----------



## madhatter01

3. The monoprice stand is great.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

1. What if you display port to dvi adapter or hdmi to dvi adapter for your triple monitor setup?

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10246&cs_id=1024608&p_id=6015&seq=1&format=2

I would go with this one.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&cs_id=1023102&p_id=2218&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Still looking for some help on this if anyone has a chance. Most specifically question #1. Thanks again.


I can't imagine a way around #1 other than getting a dual-port monitor and using something other than DVI-D, but that removes the ability to OC.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> 3. The monoprice stand is great.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 
> 1. What if you display port to dvi adapter or hdmi to dvi adapter for your triple monitor setup?
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10246&cs_id=1024608&p_id=6015&seq=1&format=2
> 
> I would go with this one.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&cs_id=1023102&p_id=2218&seq=1&format=2


Do those adapters actually work with passing out the correct signal from the VGA though? Thanks for the help.


----------



## madhatter01

What exact video card do you have.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> What exact video card do you have.


I currently run an SLI GTX 760 setup but I plan on upgrading to 2x 290x about a month after setting this up.


----------



## madhatter01

Best guess after reading is you might be able to go Displayport 1.2 to Dvi-d. Also on the AMD card go with the 290 not the 290x. You are talking 1-3 fps different for $100 per card extra. I have had several 290's and I will tell you the MSI R9 290 Gaming is the best. Its also is the only one that I know of that as a backplate. I also had the Gigabyte Windforce 290 and it was not very good quality.

MSI R9 290 Gaming
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/R9-290-GAMING-4G.html#overview


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> Best guess after reading is you might be able to go Displayport 1.2 to Dvi-d. Also on the AMD card go with the 290 not the 290x. You are talking 1-3 fps different for $100 per card extra. I have had several 290's and I will tell you the MSI R9 290 Gaming is the best. Its also is the only one that I know of that as a backplate. I also had the Gigabyte Windforce 290 and it was not very good quality.
> 
> MSI R9 290 Gaming
> http://www.msi.com/product/vga/R9-290-GAMING-4G.html#overview


Thanks! I have looked into the 290 but the 290x seems to OC better from what I have read. I was thinking of going with the Sapphire Tri-X although I'm not exactly the biggest Sapphire fan it seems to be the card most are in love with. I have some time to make a decision though.


----------



## madhatter01

I have never bought Sapphire cards, but MSI has a 3 year warranty and Sapphire has 2. That solved that for me. Please the Sapphire is a reused reference board I heard and MSI is custom.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Love this monitor and have had it for about a month and a half but just noticed it developed a blue tint towards the left edge of the display.

Would squaretrade cover this?

It's pretty aggravating.


----------



## HBlakeH

Does anyone have any pictures comparing the old glossy QNIX to the matte one? I have a glossy one, but since it looks like they are no longer made, I want to see what the matte ones look like because I want to get two more of these monitors for triple 1440p 120Hz awesomeness!


----------



## Jetlitheone

Claim already filed so that's nice they're gonna refund me once I scan it to be sent to squaretrade.

Anywho I think I might Get a glossy one this time around. Its 10$ less but is it truly glossy?


----------



## Fiduciary

Curious, did you buy a pixel perfect or no? I've heard of some people without pixel perfect having a hard time getting SquareTrade to accept a claim.


----------



## Jetlitheone

No perfect pixel here they were giving me a hard time for a minute but I was very stern lol.


----------



## pooter

For something like a blue tint should be covered by squaretrade but pixels might be hard as some of the listings have been saying up to 5 dead pixels is normal and squaretrade will try to mirror the manufacturer warranty. This is why despite the pixel perfect scam discussion it might be easier getting a squaretrade claim approved on a pp listing.

PS. If you guys need discount codes pm me. Don't bother asking me to help you with your claim tho I don't work in that dept.


----------



## Derpinheimer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> No perfect pixel here they were giving me a hard time for a minute but I was very stern lol.


Weird, I thought they would go thru a repair service to confirm the issue first. They just flat out said return for refund? Not even replacement?

They go by price paid too, huh?


----------



## andom

Just got my exchange today!

The turn around time was pretty quick and I did not have to pay for any shipping (though I have to fight with customs for double charging me). Still, if anyone is looking to buy, bigclothcraft is a pretty good seller. If you have an actual defect on your monitor, he'll pay for the return shipping both ways.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derpinheimer*
> 
> Weird, I thought they would go thru a repair service to confirm the issue first. They just flat out said return for refund? Not even replacement?
> 
> They go by price paid too, huh?


I have to return it but yea pretty much, he said once its scanned with the prepaid label to be sent to them my return will be issued and ill receive it once its done processing and yes, 299.99 to my Paypal


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Claim already filed so that's nice they're gonna refund me once I scan it to be sent to squaretrade.
> 
> Anywho I think I might Get a glossy one this time around. Its 10$ less but is it truly glossy?


Tempered glass over matte film. True glossys are long gone.

Sent from Note 3


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Tempered glass over matte film. True glossys are long gone.
> 
> Sent from Note 3


Damn yeah saw that right before you posted this, I guess no option over it than

Gonna order my replacement now so I wont be without a monitor.

Everyone still going with dream-seller?


----------



## madhatter01

Ok I swapped the cable from a 10ft 28AWG to a 6 ft 28awg (my 6ft 24awg will be here tomorrow) and very light retention now. I had chrome open for 15 mins and left my computer alone and could barely see it on a grey screen.


----------



## madhatter01

New cable = 120hz now!


----------



## Osteoman

New to the club. I ordered a Qnix on Monday morning from excellentcastle. When I got home today DHL had left a message saying it is being delivered tomorrow. Now that is impressive shipping.


----------



## ajc8499

Hi everybody I have been following this thread for quite some time and finally made the move on 01/24/2014 to buy a Korean PLS. I figured I would take a chance on the newest kid on the block the Monex M27QSM. I order from www.2560x1440monitor.com. I received a confirmation email from Paypal that the payment had been made but I have received no email from the website that my order was placed or that the item had shipped. When I log into my account on their site it shows I have placed an order and under status it says processed. This is what it has said since the 24th when i placed the order. I emailed them on the 26th 27th and 28th asking about tracking info and have heard nothing back. I searched this site to see if there was a database of reputable Korean monitor vendors as well as those to avoid but found nothing (at least nothing mentioning the site I purchased from). A Google search didn't yield many results either. I found a few sites that mentioned positive things about www.2560x1440monitor.com but I have to admit I am starting to worry a bit. Has anyone here purchased from them? I used paypal so if they don't send me anything I do feel confident I can get my money back but would rather not have to deal with the hassle. Any incite would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## madhatter01

I am new here too. I order mine from excellentcastle also. The first one I ordered was pixel perfect and I got one with 1 stuck red pixel right in the middle area. They did not want to take it back even though they said NO stuck pixels. Right after I received mine they started offering ultimate pixel perfect, 100% perfect for $360 (i paid $330). I would have paid the $30 more. So I made them a deal send me an ultimate and I will sell my one with one red stuck pixel. We came up with a price and needles to say I will be selling a few day old with 1 stuck pixel. When I pay for PERFECT I want it. The deal we made need less to say was more in their favor.


----------



## Osteoman

I paid 330 for the Ultimate Perfect pixel. Here's hoping it is. I simply made the offer of 330 and they took it.


----------



## Jetlitheone

I think I might order from excellentcastle than


----------



## Meteo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Well I got mine in from dream-seller today and there is also a line from top to bottom that can be seen on blue and green screens but not red, black, our white. Is it the cable or the monitor?
> 
> Not only did I buy the pixel perfect version, but I also paid him $50 extra to make sure I got one that had no issues. If it's not the cable, then I'm pissed.
> 
> I'll report back later with pictures and any responses I get from dream-seller.


Dam, you got scammed big time, despite all the warnings from spartan and others.

Thanks for the additional evidence though. Now we know for certain that pixel perfect is basically throwing your money away. Im starting to feel lucky that I got away with just 1 stuck pixel...


----------



## amorello

Can someone send me the links for the suitable DVI cables to overclock?


----------



## madhatter01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meteo*
> 
> Dam, you got scammed big time, despite all the warnings from spartan and others.
> 
> Thanks for the additional evidence though. Now we know for certain that pixel perfect is basically throwing your money away. Im starting to feel lucky that I got away with just 1 stuck pixel...


Think of it this way. I want a perfect monitor. If I pay extra for the pixel perfect service and don't receive a perfect one I can justify to Ebay that I paid for a service I did not get. Then possible file a claim and get a free monitor, if the seller wont work with you. So to me I paid for perfect and got it on the 2nd one. The first one had 1 stuck pixel and they worked with me. Yes I could have paid less and possibly got a perfect one. I don't want to chance that and get one with 4 or more dead/stuck pixels. So for us people who to pay for PIXEL INSURANCE, that's ok. I got what I paid for. If you want to chance the panel lottery that's your call. I don't ever win the lottery so I don't want to play that game.


----------



## madhatter01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Can someone send me the links for the suitable DVI cables to overclock?


http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


Thanks for the link








So this is the best one? I remember seeing suggested cables to buy somewhere in this thread, but now I cannot seem to find it lol -.-
+REPed


----------



## Kold

Well, so far communication with dream-seller has been non-existent. I opened up a claim with him and he initially responded quickly asking for pictures of the problem. I sent them immediately and it has now been over 24 hours since then. I was really hoping to have this one on its way back to them by tonight.

In the future, if I order another similar monitor, I will probably opt for the extra $$$ on the Asus. Does the Asus PB278Q use the same Samsung PLS screen?


----------



## madhatter01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Thanks for the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the best one? I remember seeing suggested cables to buy somewhere in this thread, but now I cannot seem to find it lol -.-
> +REPed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meteo*
> 
> Dam, you got scammed big time, despite all the warnings from spartan and others.
> 
> Thanks for the additional evidence though. Now we know for certain that pixel perfect is basically throwing your money away. Im starting to feel lucky that I got away with just 1 stuck pixel...


You cant go wrong with Monoprice brand. At that dont make the same mistake and get a 10ft, it will not work no matter the brand.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> Think of it this way. I want a perfect monitor. If I pay extra for the pixel perfect service and don't receive a perfect one I can justify to Ebay that I paid for a service I did not get. Then possible file a claim and get a free monitor, if the seller wont work with you. So to me I paid for perfect and got it on the 2nd one. The first one had 1 stuck pixel and they worked with me. Yes I could have paid less and possibly got a perfect one. I don't want to chance that and get one with 4 or more dead/stuck pixels. So for us people who to pay for PIXEL INSURANCE, that's ok. I got what I paid for. If you want to chance the panel lottery that's your call. I don't ever win the lottery so I don't want to play that game.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> That is exactly the way I feel. I agree there is a reasonable chance the sellers just pick a panel out of the pile, no matter which version a person buys. But I also see it as pixel insurance on the back end. I'm not a fan of insurance for small things as a rule, but I know pixel issues could drive me nuts plus I'm not buying this monitor because it's cheap but because it can over clock.
> 
> Edit. Pardon my butchering of the edit. The edit function is not working well on my iPad. The second paragraph above represents my comment and not his. Osteoman


----------



## Meteo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> Think of it this way. I want a perfect monitor. If I pay extra for the pixel perfect service and don't receive a perfect one I can justify to Ebay that I paid for a service I did not get. Then possible file a claim and get a free monitor, if the seller wont work with you. So to me I paid for perfect and got it on the 2nd one. The first one had 1 stuck pixel and they worked with me. Yes I could have paid less and possibly got a perfect one. I don't want to chance that and get one with 4 or more dead/stuck pixels. So for us people who to pay for PIXEL INSURANCE, that's ok. I got what I paid for. If you want to chance the panel lottery that's your call. I don't ever win the lottery so I don't want to play that game.


I still dont get what you are saying. Didnt you pay for perfect pixel and still got a stuck pixel? I bought a non-perfect pixel and got a stuck pixel. Arn't you playing the same lottery either way in that case? Has anyone been successful in getting their money back if they got 1 stuck/dead pixel if they bought perfect pixel?


----------



## madhatter01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meteo*
> 
> I still dont get what you are saying. Didnt you pay for perfect pixel and still got a stuck pixel? I bought a non-perfect pixel and got a stuck pixel. Arn't you playing the same lottery either way in that case? Has anyone been successful in getting their money back if they got 1 stuck/dead pixel if they bought perfect pixel?


With Ebay you get what you pay for with their new policy. If I wanted to I could have called ebay and requested a refund. Then tell the seller refused to pay shipping back and link to sellers return policy which said they would pay for return shipping if defect. Showing I paid for Perfect pixels and then seller refusing to pay for return equal refund and free monitor. I worked out a deal and they had someone by hand triple check my new one. With non pixel perfect I could have had X number of dead or stuck pixel. With Ultimate they promise ZERO dead and ZERO stuck. Now just imagine that I save $30 and got unlucky and received one with 5 stuck or dead. I would be unhappy and because they say you could have up to 5 with NON pixel perfect, I would be out of luck. Ebay will not refund me because it says in the listing that up to 5 is ok. See where I am going with this? I paid extra and made sure who I bought from would stand behind their pixel policy so that I would get a perfect monitor. Who cares if I could have by chance got one for less with no stuck or dead. I did not want to chance it and its my money.


----------



## madhatter01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Well, so far communication with dream-seller has been non-existent. I opened up a claim with him and he initially responded quickly asking for pictures of the problem. I sent them immediately and it has now been over 24 hours since then. I was really hoping to have this one on its way back to them by tonight.
> 
> In the future, if I order another similar monitor, I will probably opt for the extra $$$ on the Asus. Does the Asus PB278Q use the same Samsung PLS screen?
> 
> Contact Ebay and let them know you tried to work with them and they wont reply. Ebay or Paypal will light a fire under their butts. Just start a claim and see what happens. If you want to do over 60hz then stick with the Qnix.


----------



## Osteoman

Meteo

Most of the"Perfect pixel" sellers actually say 0-2 bad pixels fits within the criteria
as acceptable and it still be considered "Perfect pixel". The regular ones usually say 0-4 is acceptable.

The Ultimate Perfect pixel one from Excellent castle says 0 stuck or dead pixels. So Mad's first one fell within the criteria.

So if you bought a perfect pixel one and the seller said 0-2 was acceptable and yours had 3 you would have an argument you didn't get what you paid for and would have recourse.

Therefore, spending the extra provides recourse in the event of one falling outside of the minimum criteria.


----------



## madhatter01

Link to Ultimate Pixel Perfect

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271375013937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## junkrok

Wow! This place sure didn't change much!

Guys Ultimate Pixel Perfect sounds good and all, but I'm going to wait for the:
*MEGA ULTIMATE SUPER PIXEL DOUBLE PERFECT QNIX QX2710!*

I know it will be double the cost of a 27" 4k monitor, but it includes airfare to physically inspect the monitors in Korea yourself.


----------



## Meteo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Meteo
> The Ultimate Perfect pixel one from Excellent castle says 0 stuck or dead pixels. So Mad's first one fell within the criteria.


actually, the first one that he bought (the one with the stuck pixel) according to his post was a regular "perfect pixel" given the fact that he had to sell it back to the seller...no idea how much money he lost with that. The "ultimate perfect pixel" didnt come until later. In that case, what I said still applies, you are still playing the same lottery with the regular "pixel perfect."


----------



## HBlakeH

Ya... I'm not paying over double for them to match. I could buy both and have $100 to spend elsewhere.


----------



## shigueaki

Just got my qx2710!
Very fast! Just two days to arrive!
I did a quick check and looks like no dead pixel, but a small amount of backlight bleeding.
Tomorrow I'll double check for any problem.
Next step is get a good vga cuz my gtx670 will not be able to run at 2560x1440 properly lol
Anyone has a r9 290 stock cooler? Its that bad the heat dissipation from stock ones? i can find a r9 290 for around 430$ and aftermarket ones are 580$+
That way I can buy a 290x stock coller..or a gtx 780 (780ti is around 780$ here in Japan)


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Hello everybody! i have Achieva Shimian QH2700 with DP and i would change it for play with an overclock monitor at 120 hz.
What monitor you can suggest to me? Overclock work also with DisplayPort PCB?

Thank you


----------



## Spartan F8

Look a bunch more comments about the perfect pixel scam.

*@junkrok* you made me giggle a bit from that comment. They could likely start tossing "extreme" and "Super" into their posts and they could rip off a whole slew more people. Heck they already through "evolution" and "perfect" into it and that worked like a charm.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> Hello everybody! i have Achieva Shimian QH2700 with DP and i would change it for play with an overclock monitor at 120 hz.
> What monitor you can suggest to me? Overclock work also with DisplayPort PCB?
> 
> Thank you


We would suggest the cheapest you can find on ebay. PP is a scam, but some sellers tend to have better trends of good monitors(bigclothcraft and accessorieswhole are two examples but don't limit yourself to their inventory). You cannot overclock with display port and the only Qnix models to properly overclock is the single port dual link DVI models.


----------



## Osteoman

Meteo

You simply misread my post, and that was my fault because the paragraphs make no sense, lol. I know his first one wasn't the ultimate one, I'm just saying his first one fell within the 0-2 margin the seller had given as acceptable for the PP one he bought.

I also completely get that on the seller's end PP is very likely a scam. The recourse is on the back end through ebay and Paypal based on the wording within the posting for the monitor.

I understand some people don't have the $30 or feels its a waste and they likely aren't wrong. However, if push comes to shove arguing with ebay or Paypal, we will simply have a better chance of having a valid argument that it isn't what the seller said he was selling. If someone buys one that says 0-4 is acceptable and they have 3, they don't have that argument. For me $30 is about ten minutes worth of work and it was worth it to me.

Of course, having said all that, I'll probably have a 100 bad pixels when I receive it today.


----------



## tundotcom

So I bought a Qnix QX2710 from AccessoriesWhole on January 23rd and they shipped it out via UPS the next morning. It was scheduled for delivery on Monday the 27th but it's been stuck in the UPS warehouse in Louisville, Kentucky for it to clear customs I assume.

Louisville, KY, United States 01/29/2014 4:19 A.M. Warehouse Scan
01/29/2014 4:11 A.M. Import Scan
Louisville, KY, United States 01/28/2014 4:19 A.M. Import Scan
Louisville, KY, United States 01/25/2014 4:37 A.M. Warehouse Scan
01/25/2014 3:11 A.M. Import Scan
01/25/2014 1:17 A.M. Arrival Scan
Anchorage, AK, United States 01/24/2014 3:30 P.M. Departure Scan
01/24/2014 12:44 P.M. Arrival Scan
01/24/2014 11:18 A.M. UPS has obtained documentation and submitted to Food & Drug Administration and/or department of AG/PPQ;awaiting response.
01/24/2014 11:17 A.M. Registered with Clearing Agency. Shipment release pending Clearing Agency review. / Shipment submitted to Clearing Agency, awaiting final release.
Incheon, Korea, Republic of 01/25/2014 12:10 A.M. Departure Scan
Incheon, Korea, Republic of 01/24/2014 10:51 P.M. Departure Scan
01/24/2014 7:05 P.M. Export Scan
01/24/2014 6:45 P.M. Arrival Scan
01/24/2014 6:44 P.M. Origin Scan
01/24/2014 3:50 P.M. Pickup Scan
Korea, Republic of 01/24/2014 1:49 A.M. Order Processed: Ready for UPS

The delivery date just keeps getting pushed back a day as it sits there doing nothing. Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

thank you for the reply Spartan! infact i paid achieva shimian more than Qnix, maybe for the presence of DisplayPort. However i will take Qnix with only a DVI port. I bought shimian from Accessorieswhole, i think he is a good seller.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> thank you for the reply Spartan! infact i paid achieva shimian more than Qnix, maybe for the presence of DisplayPort. However i will take Qnix with only a DVI port. I bought shimian from Accessorieswhole, i think he is a good seller.


accessorieswhole does indeed seem to be a good seller. I have bought several korean monitors from him. Also they do indeed charge more for the display port models due to increased compatibility. The Qnix that has a display port also does have an extra cost to it.

So far sellers have not began to raise prices due to the overclocking potential of these monitors like the catleap 2B series did. There has been a increase of price for the plain glossy version but this seems to be related to supply so far.


----------



## Kold

*dream-seller responded back this morning.
*
Seller's message:
"Hello, Thank you for your message and pictures. This is very odd that it is showing that much dead pixels. As you requested, our tech took extra care of your monitor during the second round of field test and specifically remembers your case. There might have been damage done during shipping which is rare case but I am awfully sorry to see this as a result. I will assist you with return for replacement. We will again, make sure the quality is at best as we could and provide you a video of testing YOUR replacement monitor. I just want you to know that we did take extra care to make sure that your monitor was nearly as perfect as possible. Since the outcome was not good, I will provide you the return information to return it to us. Thank you so much."

*So when I call Fedex, the return shipping will already be paid?*

Seller's message:
"This is the address to return. MOON Sungho 4F, Busanjin Post Office Gaya 3-dong, Busanjin-gu BUSAN South Korea (post code: 614-804) When you send the item, please make sure the packaging should be as how it was. (PACKED IN ORIGINAL PACKAGE including all the parts.) You need to contact FedEx, quoting our A/C #. They will arrange time to come and pick up the item and send it by C.O.D (collect on delivery ). Please send it as FedEx Intl.Economy. Please do not apply insurance for the shipment, we will charge you later for that amount if you do so. Once you have done this, please write a commercial invoice stated your full name, name of product (제품명) and "return to repair". And please provide us tracking number once you send it. Please send us the product carefully. I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience. Please feel free to ask if you have any further questions. Thank you very much. Have a good day! Best regards, "


----------



## Loktar Ogar

This was the best reply i read so far from Korean sellers. Good to know it will be replaced with no fees. Nice!


----------



## snorbaard

Hello everyone

I'm from South Africa. I bought a matte QX2710 from Accessorieswhole on Wednesday 22 January for $314 (R3525) incl. worldwide shipping. They shipped it out with Fedex and I had to pay customs and disbursement fees to the total equivalent amount of $50 (R537). It was delivered on Tuesday 28 January. So $364 (R4062) in total.

So far:

Not a single faulty pixel
120 Hz overclock works perfect (haven't tried higher yet) on a Radeon HD 6850
Some backlight bleeding in the corners and top off-centre to the left. I can totally live with this.
Cheers


----------



## Jetlitheone

Was gonna buy a monitor but saw that everyone is on vacation selling them lol.


----------



## TinyMud

Quote:


> Good luck, hope you get it sorted!


No problems Green sum was very helpful. The only delay came from DHL into their investigation as to how the package was damaged. I received a replacement after 3 weeks at no cost to me.


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Was gonna buy a monitor but saw that everyone is on vacation selling them lol.


Yeah, I purchased mine Monday evening Pacific time, and it's not scheduled to arrive until Friday, Feb 7th. I think I may have hit Lunar New Year as well. =/ I was hoping for some of that ridiculous three day shipping.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> Yeah, I purchased mine Monday evening Pacific time, and it's not scheduled to arrive until Friday, Feb 7th. I think I may have hit Lunar New Year as well. =/ I was hoping for some of that ridiculous three day shipping.


Yeah I'm waiting. I'm moving on the 17th of February and don't want to perhaps risk it being sent to my old house or something so in an odd predicament haha


----------



## kornedbeefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> Yeah, I purchased mine Monday evening Pacific time, and it's not scheduled to arrive until Friday, Feb 7th. I think I may have hit Lunar New Year as well. =/ I was hoping for some of that ridiculous three day shipping.


Glad I read this. So when do they return to work?


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kornedbeefy*
> 
> Glad I read this. So when do they return to work?


I ordered a Yamakasi DS270 late last night from Green-sum on eBay (in South Korea), they said they would be back to work on Feb 2nd.
Did not find out until right after making the Paypal payment, now I wish i had ordered a day earlier.


----------



## madhatter01

Did not have great experience with Green-Sum. This was back in the middle of Dec. I order a Qnix on monday. I contacted them wednesday saying I had not got a tracking number since the list said Fast Shipping. They said it takes time to get a Pixel Perfect, I said fair enough. Well 8-9 days later and it was still not shipped out of their office. So I asked for a refund and got it. There was multiple emails sent during that time and need less to say I would not use them. They said fast shipping on Pixel Perfect and 8-9 days to ship is not fast. Also I did have a tracking number within a day, but it never updated.


----------



## lang15

I've had my X-star over a month and it's been great, overclocked to 96hz. I've recently had the screen go like this 3 times in the past week. Restarting the computer solves the issue. Just wanted to know if anyone else ran into this issue, maybe its the graphics card or cable. AMD 7970.



"It's gone to plaid!"


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lang15*
> 
> I've had my X-star over a month and it's been great, overclocked to 96hz. I've recently had the screen go like this 3 times in the past week. Restarting the computer solves the issue. Just wanted to know if anyone else ran into this issue, maybe its the graphics card or cable. AMD 7970.
> 
> 
> 
> "It's gone to plaid!"


I'm no expert, but that seems like a GPU problem to me. Especially if rebooting fixes the issue.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> I'm no expert, but that seems like a GPU problem to me. Especially if rebooting fixes the issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I was looking into buying a Qnix evoII from AccesoriesWhole, but i noticed quite a bit of difference in pricing for the same monitors. Should i just get the cheapest one or is it possible that i'll get a better monitor if i get one thats slightly more expensive?
> 
> Besides that, the current lowest prices that'll ship to me is from AW at $314, Is this on the the low or high side or just average for current pricing?


That seems about right

I would say GPU issue as well..try upping the voltage on gpu by a notch or two.....ive this before or something similar when the gpu doesn't get enough voltage at while at the desktop etc


----------



## Jetlitheone

I found a true glossy qnix for 360 kinda expensive but less than 700..

also an older q2700 qnix for 270 glossy.

any tips?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> I found a true glossy qnix for 360 kinda expensive but less than 700..
> 
> also an older q2700 qnix for 270 glossy.
> 
> any tips?


eBay?

Sent from Note 3


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> eBay?
> 
> Sent from Note 3


\

Amazon


----------



## powellt177

Stupid question that i haven't seen by searching anywhere; with the x-star DP2710, how the hell do i adjust the tilt? Do i have to take the back off? The little stand leg looks like it should turn but it doesn't, no matter how much force i put on it (to the point of sounding like it's cracking).


----------



## Nostras

Impressed by my Qnix screen.
No ( neglible ) backlight bleed straight out of the box and no stuck pixels.
Monitor overclocked to 120Hz no sweat, it seems I got lucky.

There's only one thing I just can't get used to...
The monitor is like... Really really bright.
F.lux made it somewhat acceptable, but especially at night this screen is one bright star.

Probably missing something obvious but how do I reduce it?

And no, the controls at the bottom of the screen don't work.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Impressed by my Qnix screen.
> No ( neglible ) backlight bleed straight out of the box and no stuck pixels.
> Monitor overclocked to 120Hz no sweat, it seems I got lucky.
> 
> There's only one thing I just can't get used to...
> The monitor is like... Really really bright.
> F.lux made it somewhat acceptable, but especially at night this screen is one bright star.
> 
> Probably missing something obvious but how do I reduce it?
> 
> And no, the controls at the bottom of the screen don't work.


The brightness should definitely work


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> The brightness should definitely work


*Insert curse words here*

Holy shizballs.

I thought left was minus and right was plus.
Universal standard.
Upon further inspection it's the other way around.

I can't believe I just... GAHH









Still thanks though.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> *Insert curse words here*
> 
> Holy shizballs.
> 
> I thought left was minus and right was plus.
> Universal standard.
> Upon further inspection it's the other way around.
> 
> I can't believe I just... GAHH
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still thanks though.


Confused me at first too haha.

Where'd you order your monitor from like what seller?


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Confused me at first too haha.
> 
> Where'd you order your monitor from like what seller?


http://www.ebay.nl/itm/111258830737?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## lawson67

Thought i would share this with the rest of you guys and girls....i was finding that my PSU for Qnix monitor was getting very warm / hot....the quality of the one that comes with the Qnix is not that good and I like to have quality PSU connected to anything i own that requires stable regulated voltage...i don't trust cheap PSU especially when they get hot....been caught out in the past with cheap dodgy PSU voltage spikes blowing up my equipment.

So if anyone is interested this is a high Quality ideal replacement for the Qnix and Xstar PSU and runs cool....Its made by Channel Well Technology (CWT).....these guys make most of Corsair,s PSU and are leaders in the PSU world alongside Seasonic.

Channel Well Technology (CWT), Model: CAD060121 (newer version of PAA060F).
AC 100V ~ AC 240V input (can be used world wide); Output: DC 12V 5A (60W).
Standard barrel type DC output plug (Inner hole diameter: 2.5 mm; barrel diameter: 5.5 mm). Central positive polarity.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-CWT-Technology-Monitors-equipment/dp/B004HCCVLI


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thought i would share this with the rest of you guys and girls....i was finding that my PSU for Qnix monitor was getting very warm / hot....the quality of the one that comes with the Qnix is not that good and I like to have quality PSU connected to anything i own that requires stable regulated voltage...i don't trust cheap PSU especially when they get hot....been caught out in the past with cheap dodgy PSU voltage spikes blowing up my equipment.
> 
> So if anyone is interested this is a high Quality ideal replacement for the Qnix and Xstar PSU and runs cool....Its made by Channel Well Technology (CWT).....these guys make most of Corsair,s PSU and are leaders in the PSU world alongside Seasonic.
> 
> Channel Well Technology (CWT), Model: CAD060121 (newer version of PAA060F).
> AC 100V ~ AC 240V input (can be used world wide); Output: DC 12V 5A (60W).
> Standard barrel type DC output plug (Inner hole diameter: 2.5 mm; barrel diameter: 5.5 mm). Central positive polarity.
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-CWT-Technology-Monitors-equipment/dp/B004HCCVLI


Monitor's been on for half a day now, the adapter is a bit warmer than ambient, I'd say 20-30 degrees or something ( it feels cooler than my breath ).
You sure you just didn't get a bad adapter?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> \
> 
> Amazon


And you know for a fact it's original glossy?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Monitor's been on for half a day now, the adapter is a bit warmer than ambient, I'd say 20-30 degrees or something ( it feels cooler than my breath ).
> You sure you just didn't get a bad adapter?


I may of got a bad one yes?.....but thats a great price for a high Quality PSU and i dont mind that at all for peace of mind


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> And you know for a fact it's original glossy?


Reviews said so


----------



## winmag

New to the club. Began the journey on newegg.com but soon found this forum and read as much as i could before purchasing from Dream Seller.
Bought the Pixel Perfect because I am superstitious and did not want the evil monitor Gods to punish me. Qnix QX2710 got here in about 10 days.
Not a single dead pixel. Minor back bleed along top edge. Not noticeable unless black screen and lights off so who cares.

Overall very happy with the high rez and large screen! And kudos to all who support this forum.

Edit: Forgot to mention a perfect overclock to 120hz.


----------



## d3vour3r

just procured a ACHIEVA Shimian QH270-Lite Quad HD. will compare it to my qnix when I get a chance and post up pics for those interested.


----------



## Osteoman

Okay mine was picked up in South Korea from the seller at 6pm and I received it today via DHL in Texas. Wow. That's crazy fast shipping...


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Okay mine was picked up in South Korea from the seller at 6pm and I received it today via DHL in Texas. Wow. That's crazy fast shipping...


What seller?


----------



## Osteoman

Excellentcastle Left his place 1/28/14 and I received it in Texas 1/29/14.

I won't get a chance to test it till tomorrow.

Man, that stand is cheap. I won't care as long as the monitor is good.


----------



## Kold

Jesus, that is fast.


----------



## Fiduciary

Bah, I wish Dream-seller used DHL.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Gonna order mine on the 1st then.


----------



## Pudfark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Okay mine was picked up in South Korea from the seller at 6pm and I received it today via DHL in Texas. Wow. That's crazy fast shipping...


I live in NorthEast Texas...and the time from order to delivery was 46 hours, ten of those hours were to truck it 25 miles.....I'm at the end of their route. My QNIX was purchased through NewEgg and shipped from South Korea...mine came pixel perfect and no backlight bleed. I've had my monitor for almost two weeks and I couldn't be happier. All of this to point out that Osteoman ain't telling a whopper.. It's true, unbelievably true. I hope everybody is as fortunate as I was.....


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *powellt177*
> 
> Stupid question that i haven't seen by searching anywhere; with the x-star DP2710, how the hell do i adjust the tilt? Do i have to take the back off? The little stand leg looks like it should turn but it doesn't, no matter how much force i put on it (to the point of sounding like it's cracking).


You may need to open it up and loosen the screws a little. I never tried the default stand but on one of the two monitors I brought, the screws on one seemed to be a fair bit tighter than the other when I removed the stem.


----------



## Osteoman

I admit I was stunned how fast it was. I'm not sure without looking what the time difference is between here and there but it left seller facility at 6:01pm 1/28/14, was in Seoul by 8:40 pm 1/28/14, was in Incheon by 9:24 pm 1/28/14, was in Cincinnati, OH by 03:21 1/29/14, was in Coppell, TX by 09:01 am, 1/29/14, and was deliverd to me sometime yesterday when I wasn't home. DHL had called on Tuesday and left a message they were coming Wednesday with it.

I'll also provide feedback when I am able to test it tonight. The box was slightly damaged though with holes all the way through, but on the back side of the screen. No visible damage to monitor.


----------



## tundotcom

Sigh, my monitor sits in the UPS warehouse another day while I wait for it to clear customs. The UPS site says documents were submitted to the FDA and/or Dept of Ag. What does my computer monitor have to do with them?


----------



## causese1990

issues i had:
- horizontal/vertical lines appearing when i watch shows or when i'm using my browser
- at startup there was some kind of disortion.

i fixed it by getting a WQXGA (up to 2560 x 1600) supporting cable.
i bought an expensive one since i didn't want to take any risks with cheaper cables.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Clicktronic-Casual-DVI-D-Kabel-1m-fur-HD-Signale-bis-WQXGA-Full-HD-/321305620547?pt=DE_Computing_Monitor_AV_Kabel_Adapter&hash=item4acf4eb043

if you have similar issues just buy a *WQXGA DVI-D cable* with atleast 1m length.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I admit I was stunned how fast it was. I'm not sure without looking what the time difference is between here and there but it left seller facility at 6:01pm 1/28/14, was in Seoul by 8:40 pm 1/28/14, was in Incheon by 9:24 pm 1/28/14, was in Cincinnati, OH by 03:21 1/29/14, was in Coppell, TX by 09:01 am, 1/29/14, and was deliverd to me sometime yesterday when I wasn't home. DHL had called on Tuesday and left a message they were coming Wednesday with it.
> 
> I'll also provide feedback when I am able to test it tonight. The box was slightly damaged though with holes all the way through, but on the back side of the screen. No visible damage to monitor.


Please do. Plan to order from that seller as well.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey are there any germans among us who ordered this monitor? If yes can you tell me how much you had to pay addiitionally VAT, fess etc.


----------



## zippy54

I bought the QNIX Q2710 from AccessoriseWhole late sunday night (GMT), it shipped on Monday, arriving in the UK on Wednesday - incredible shipping by UPS.

At first the monitor was not playing ball with Linux (X11), I did tweak a few settings to avoid X11 from reading the deformed EDID data -- I've included my

Code:



Code:


xorg.conf

for reference.

I paid £240 (including £45 of import tax and VAT.)

I don't think I could go back to a normal 1080 TN panel.

Code:



Code:


$ cat /etc/X11/xorg.conf
Section "ServerLayout"
    Identifier     "Layout0"
    Screen      0  "Screen0" 0 0
    InputDevice    "Keyboard0" "CoreKeyboard"
    InputDevice    "Mouse0" "CorePointer"
    Option         "Xinerama" "0"
EndSection

Section "Files"
EndSection

Section "Device"
    Identifier     "Device0"
    Driver         "nvidia"
    VendorName     "NVIDIA Corporation"
    Option         "IgnoreEDIDChecksum" "DFP"
EndSection

Section "InputDevice"

    # generated from default
    Identifier     "Mouse0"
    Driver         "mouse"
    Option         "Protocol" "auto"
    Option         "Device" "/dev/psaux"
    Option         "Emulate3Buttons" "no"
    Option         "ZAxisMapping" "4 5"
EndSection

Section "InputDevice"

    # generated from default
    Identifier     "Keyboard0"
    Driver         "kbd"
EndSection

Section "Monitor"
    Identifier     "Monitor0"
    VendorName     "QNIX"
    ModelName      "QX2710"
    DisplaySize     597    336
    HorizSync       88.8 - 160.0
    VertRefresh     59.5 - 120.0
    ModeLine       "2560x1440_60"       312.25 2560 2752 3024 3488 1440 1443 1448 1493 -hsync +vsync
    Option         "DPMS"
EndSection

Section "Screen"
    Identifier     "Screen0"
    Device         "Device0"
    Monitor        "Monitor0"
    DefaultDepth    24
    Option         "UseEDID" "False"
    Option         "UseEDIDDPI" "False"
    Option         "UseEDIDFreqs" "False"
    Option         "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"
    Option         "ModeValidation" "AllowNonEdidModes, AllowNon60hzmodesDFPModes, NoEDIDDFPMaxSizeCheck, NoVertRefreshCheck, NoHorizSyncCheck, NoDFPNativeResolutionCheck, NoMaxSizeCheck, NoMaxPClkCheck, NoEDIDModes"
    Option         "NoBandWidthTest" "true"
    SubSection     "Display"
        Depth       24
        Modes      "2560x1440_60" "2560x1440"
    EndSubSection
EndSection


----------



## shigueaki

I've tried to oc my qnix and I may have done something wrong.
I've create the new profile with 96hz and after reboot, I'm unable to change refresh rate at nvidia settings. Any help?


----------



## M Diddy

So guys, I got my monitor from Green-Sum. Shipped on a Friday and got it Monday. Super fast shipping. I paid for the pixel perfect version and have 0 dead pixels that I can see. BLB actually isn't that as well, but there is one small, annoying issue with the panel. On the lower left, you can see what appears to be the indiviual LED's showing through the panel. You only see these on black or dark screens, but they're pretty noticable. I've tried doing the electic tape fix to the fram but that didn't do anything. Is there any way for me to fix this that you can think of?

Here's a backed out shot. I've circled the problem area:



Here's a more close up shot showing the issue:



Any idea if this can be fixed or not?


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M Diddy*
> 
> So guys, I got my monitor from Green-Sum. Shipped on a Friday and got it Monday. Super fast shipping. I paid for the pixel perfect version and have 0 dead pixels that I can see. BLB actually isn't that as well, but there is one small, annoying issue with the panel. On the lower left, you can see what appears to be the indiviual LED's showing through the panel. You only see these on black or dark screens, but they're pretty noticable. I've tried doing the electic tape fix to the fram but that didn't do anything. Is there any way for me to fix this that you can think of?
> 
> Any idea if this can be fixed or not?


This is not worth buying for a PP. I would return it ASAP.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> This is not worth buying for a PP. I would return it ASAP.


And that is why Pixel Perfect is a scam. They do not check for any impurities.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shigueaki*
> 
> I've tried to oc my qnix and I may have done something wrong.
> I've create the new profile with 96hz and after reboot, I'm unable to change refresh rate at nvidia settings. Any help?


Did you make sure to uncheck the "include extension block" ? CRU users with nvidia cards must uncheck this option.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zippy54*
> 
> I bought the QNIX Q2710 from AccessoriseWhole late sunday night (GMT), it shipped on Monday, arriving in the UK on Wednesday - incredible shipping by UPS.
> 
> At first the monitor was not playing ball with Linux (X11), I did tweak a few settings to avoid X11 from reading the deformed EDID data -- I've included my
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> xorg.conf
> 
> for reference.
> 
> I paid £240 (including £45 of import tax and VAT.)
> 
> I don't think I could go back to a normal 1080 TN panel.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> $ cat /etc/X11/xorg.conf
> Section "ServerLayout"
> Identifier     "Layout0"
> Screen      0  "Screen0" 0 0
> InputDevice    "Keyboard0" "CoreKeyboard"
> InputDevice    "Mouse0" "CorePointer"
> Option         "Xinerama" "0"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "Files"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "Device"
> Identifier     "Device0"
> Driver         "nvidia"
> VendorName     "NVIDIA Corporation"
> Option         "IgnoreEDIDChecksum" "DFP"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "InputDevice"
> 
> # generated from default
> Identifier     "Mouse0"
> Driver         "mouse"
> Option         "Protocol" "auto"
> Option         "Device" "/dev/psaux"
> Option         "Emulate3Buttons" "no"
> Option         "ZAxisMapping" "4 5"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "InputDevice"
> 
> # generated from default
> Identifier     "Keyboard0"
> Driver         "kbd"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "Monitor"
> Identifier     "Monitor0"
> VendorName     "QNIX"
> ModelName      "QX2710"
> DisplaySize     597    336
> HorizSync       88.8 - 160.0
> VertRefresh     59.5 - 120.0
> ModeLine       "2560x1440_60"       312.25 2560 2752 3024 3488 1440 1443 1448 1493 -hsync +vsync
> Option         "DPMS"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "Screen"
> Identifier     "Screen0"
> Device         "Device0"
> Monitor        "Monitor0"
> DefaultDepth    24
> Option         "UseEDID" "False"
> Option         "UseEDIDDPI" "False"
> Option         "UseEDIDFreqs" "False"
> Option         "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"
> Option         "ModeValidation" "AllowNonEdidModes, AllowNon60hzmodesDFPModes, NoEDIDDFPMaxSizeCheck, NoVertRefreshCheck, NoHorizSyncCheck, NoDFPNativeResolutionCheck, NoMaxSizeCheck, NoMaxPClkCheck, NoEDIDModes"
> Option         "NoBandWidthTest" "true"
> SubSection     "Display"
> Depth       24
> Modes      "2560x1440_60" "2560x1440"
> EndSubSection
> EndSection


I hope you enjoy your new Qnix as much as i have enjoyed mine....mine arrived in 4 days from time of purchase and i also bought mine from AccessoriseWhole as well..."the pixel perfect" ...it was great other than some backlight bleed which most have and that is normally because they are sat in a bent metal frame...i had to take mine out of the frame and lay the frame on a flat work surface and use brute force with my hands to straighten the frame, using the flat surface as a reference for straight...this totally cured mine Backlight bleed and gave me an A+ grade monitor for £200....i could not be happier

I paid £35 import tax as i asked AccessoriseWhole to ship it with an invoice calming it was worth $200....however i did think i have got away with this as i had the monitor for over 1 week then FEDEX sent me a bill for the income tax in the post....i also found the PSU on mine was getting a little to hot...so i swapped it out for a little over a tenner and bought a high quality Channel Well Technology (CWT) PSU to replace that...which to me is peace of mine as Channel Well Technology (CWT) are one of the worlds top PSU makers making most of Corsairs PSU....also i like to have peace of mind knowing that i have quality regulated power going to my monitor...no nasty power spike to blow it up!

Also it overclocks right up to 130hz with no artifacts...i have not tried any higher..the gamma does rise also at 120hz making the screen darker...but my spyder 4 pro corrects this perfectly and even at 120hz can produce 99% of sRGB....at 60hz the out of the box colours are amazing with a white point of 6551k...nearly perfect....they are great monitors...if you need a 120hz corrected Gamma icm profile let me know and i will post you one.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-CWT-Technology-Monitors-equipment/dp/B004HCCVLI


----------



## lolana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Hey are there any germans among us who ordered this monitor? If yes can you tell me how much you had to pay addiitionally VAT, fess etc.


I live in germany and had ordered the PP version for 250€ with free shipping from storewithstory.
It was marked as a 100$ gift, but the customs duty wanted a real paypal record of payment.
After sending it I had to pay 47,50€ VAT, so the monitor costed a total of 297,50€ (= a bit more than 400$).
It has one dead pixel in the very top right corner and some noticable backlight bleed in the bottom right area and overclocked without any extra adjustments with standard timings to 120hz on my hd7870 card with stock cable and CRU.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> If you need a 120hz corrected Gamma icm profile let me know and i will post you one.


Can you post it? I'd like to try it.


----------



## zippy54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I hope you enjoy your new Qnix as much as i have enjoyed mine....mine arrived in 4 days from time of purchase and i also bought mine from AccessoriseWhole as well..."the pixel perfect" ...it was great other than some backlight bleed which most have and that is normally because they are sat in a bent metal frame...i had to take mine out of the frame and lay the frame on a flat work surface and use brute force with my hands to straighten the frame, using the flat surface as a reference for straight...this totally cured mine Backlight bleed and gave me an A+ grade monitor for £200....i could not be happier
> 
> I paid £35 import tax as i asked AccessoriseWhole to ship it with an invoice calming it was worth $200....however i did think i have got away with this as i had the monitor for over 1 week then FEDEX sent me a bill for the income tax in the post....i also found the PSU on mine was getting a little to hot...so i swapped it out for a little over a tenner and bought a high quality Channel Well Technology (CWT) PSU to replace that...which to me is peace of mine as Channel Well Technology (CWT) are one of the worlds top PSU makers making most of Corsairs PSU....also i like to have peace of mind knowing that i have quality regulated power going to my monitor...no nasty power spike to blow it up!
> 
> Also it overclocks right up to 130hz with no artifacts...i have not tried any higher..the gamma does rise also at 120hz making the screen darker...but my spyder 4 pro corrects this perfectly and even at 120hz can produce 99% of sRGB....at 60hz the out of the box colours are amazing with a white point of 6551k...nearly perfect....they are great monitors...if you need a 120hz corrected Gamma icm profile let me know and i will post you one.
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-CWT-Technology-Monitors-equipment/dp/B004HCCVLI


Yes, it's a great monitor for the price, I did not pay the extra £30-£50 for a perfect pixel monitor on advice from this thread. From my preliminary inspection there is no backlight bleed, or dead/stuck pixels -- I assume the monitors are shipped at random from the warehouse.

In regards to the PSU problem, yes I'll probably upgrade to a PSU for peace of mind, although after ~3 hours of usage, it's not hot on touch.

Here's hoping for 120Hz, I'll report back results, if any.


----------



## Pingu12

Ok so first off Hello OCN, and thank you for this amazingly detailed thread. This thread alone is the sole reason I have purchased this excellent monitor and I could not be happier with it.

I have now had the monitor for a few days now and I thought it was about time to overclock it and see what Hz it could put out. So I followed the guide on this thread and I managed to get it stable with no frame skipping at 110Hz. Then I updated my drivers to the latest 13.12, upon restarting windows, it booted up into some strange monitor test image cycle and will not allow me to use windows

Someone please help me sort this out as.

EDIT: Lol realise i'm an idiot and I just need to patch the new drivers


----------



## lawson67

Yes of course i will put them in a zip file.....i have made a few at different brighness.... because as you change the brightness you really need to recalibrate for that brightness if you are fussy....i have labelled my ICM files to the brightness i created them at...so for example a brightness of about.. "120 cd/m"....would be from a totally black screen using the BRI + key about 10 clicks up.....this should be about 120 cd/m and is the brightness recommended for photographers....i find this to dim for every day use...but for real hardcore photographers this is the brightness they use....

So i will pack a few for you to try all using the standard of 2.2 gamma and 6500k white point...they will all be labelled to which brightness "cd/m" i created them at....use this guide to help you set the correct brightness

So for ....brightness of 120 cd/m 10 clicks up on the BRI + button from a black screen

170 cd/m is BRI + button from a black screen 16 clicks up

200 cd/m BRI + button from a black screen 18 clicks up

max is flat out brightness

I have also added some 96hz profiles also...enjoy









Edit: i will also upload this handy little tool to apply your profiles with..(Color Keeper)

Also for anyone who wonders why there ICM profiles wont load on a reboot even tho they are set to system default...its becaurse microsoft have desgined Color management in a confusing way... follow this Guide to load your ICM profiles at windows start up

works for windows 7 and windows 8

1.Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
2.Select the display you want.
3.Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
4.Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
5.Click "ok"
6.Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
7.Spend hours searching the internet, asking questions, clicking, clicking on everything, and wondering why nothing is happening.
8.Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
9.Click on the new "advanced" tab and click "Use Windows Display Calibration".
10.Hit your head against a wall wondering why Windows would allow you to enter detailed settings for calibration and then bury the option that would actually apply any of them.
Steps 7 and 10 are optional.

Qnixicmprofiles.zip 20k .zip file


CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


----------



## Feyla

Hi guys,

My Qnix has been overclocked to 110hz for several months now, but suddenly I'm having an issue where after I log into windows my screen glitches with coloured lines. As shown in screenshot:



This happens 80% of the time after I log into windows, I have to reboot then, and keep rebooting until it doesn't happen. I used CRU "reset-all" and it doesn't happen anymore.

These were my setting for CRU when the problem was occuring:



Any ideas what I can change to stop this?


----------



## Pingu12

Ok after my stupid episode earlier I am now back at a stable 110Hz and no frame skipping of any kind.

Also would just like to share with you my QNIX experience.

First of all I am from the UK and I ordered my screen from bigclothcraft (via eBay) for a total of £205 with free DHL express postage and an £18 charge for import from DHL. If anyone in the UK is also looking to purchase a QNIX QX2710 then I could not rate bigclothcraft any higher.

My monitor arrived with zero dead or stuck pixels and only minor backlight bleed which is never noticeable. It took a total of four days from purchase of the item from Korea to my door including a 15hr stop in customs at Heathrow. The supplier also listed on the invoice the items value as £61 and therefore I avoided any major import costs, which was excellent.

All in all I am very impressed with the monitor, the resolution and refresh rate make it absolutely outstanding for the price, and I could defiantly never go back to a 1080 monitor.

Once again thank you OCN for this highly detailed thread that has helped me out to no end.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes of course i will put them in a zip file.....i have made a few at different brighness.... because as you change the brightness you really need to recalibrate for that brightness if you are fussy....i have labelled my ICM files to the brightness i created them at...so for example a brightness of about.. "120 cd/m"....would be from a totally black screen using the BRI + key about 10 clicks up.....this should be about 120 cd/m and is the brightness recommended for photographers....i find this to dim for every day use...but for real hardcore photographers this is the brightness they use....
> 
> So i will pack a few for you to try all using the standard of 2.2 gamma and 6500k white point...they will all be labelled to which brightness "cd/m" i created them at....use this guide to help you set the correct brightness
> 
> So for ....brightness of 120 cd/m 10 clicks up on the BRI + button from a black screen
> 
> 170 cd/m is BRI + button from a black screen 16 clicks up
> 
> 200 cd/m BRI + button from a black screen 18 clicks up
> 
> max is flat out brightness
> 
> I have also added some 96hz profiles also...enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: i will also upload this handy little tool to apply your profiles with..(Color Keeper)
> 
> Also for anyone who wonders why there ICM profiles wont load on a reboot even tho they are set to system default...its becaurse microsoft have desgined Color management in a confusing way... follow this Guide to load your ICM profiles at windows start up
> 
> works for windows 7 and windows 8
> 
> Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
> Select the display you want.
> Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
> Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
> Click "ok"
> Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
> Spend hours searching the internet, asking questions, clicking, clicking on everything, and wondering why nothing is happening.
> Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
> Click on the new "advanced" tab and click "Use Windows Display Calibration".
> Hit your head against a wall wondering why Windows would allow you to enter detailed settings for calibration and then bury the option that would actually apply any of them.
> Steps 7 and 10 are optional.
> 
> Qnixicmprofiles.zip 20k .zip file
> 
> 
> CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


Colors are too warm if you want I can upload an image with my SLR and show you










NCX profile is the best one


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> My Qnix has been overclocked to 110hz for several months now, but suddenly I'm having an issue where after I log into windows my screen glitches with coloured lines. As shown in screenshot:
> 
> 
> 
> This happens 80% of the time after I log into windows, I have to reboot then, and keep rebooting until it doesn't happen. I used CRU "reset-all" and it doesn't happen anymore.
> 
> These were my setting for CRU when the problem was occuring:
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas what I can change to stop this?


How about 96Hz? Give that a try.


----------



## TelFiRE

Kinda scaring me. I might downclock back to 60Hz until more reports come in after a long period of use under OC.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolana*
> 
> I live in germany and had ordered the PP version for 250€ with free shipping from storewithstory.
> It was marked as a 100$ gift, but the customs duty wanted a real paypal record of payment.
> After sending it I had to pay 47,50€ VAT, so the monitor costed a total of 297,50€ (= a bit more than 400$).
> It has one dead pixel in the very top right corner and some noticable backlight bleed in the bottom right area and overclocked without any extra adjustments with standard timings to 120hz on my hd7870 card with stock cable and CRU.


So you pay 250€ via paypal and later on 47,50€. Did you get a post mail from the administration which informed you about the VAT or how did it happen?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Kinda scaring me. I might downclock back to 60Hz until more reports come in after a long period of use under OC.


You're fine trust me.

Anyone have any experience with accessorieswhole?

Looking to order one tonight or tomorrow so I can send this one in and get my money from Squaretrade.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Colors are too warm if you want I can upload an image with my SLR and show you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NCX profile is the best one


They are perfect on my monitor and not warm at all...they are all calibrated at 6500k white point which is the recommend standard... 5000K or 5800K white point would be warm...but not 6500k....also the spyder 4 pro has 7 patches for each for RGB where as most calibrators have only 3...this is datacolors most accurate color calibrator ever and they are not to warm...

I have the NCX profile also which looks warmer on my screen...you must remember every monitor will not produce the same colours...however these will get you fairly close...also have you installed and loaded the ICM files correctly?

Edit:..how can you say these are warm when it appears you don't even own a Qnix monitor yet?....what monitor did you load these profiles on?...these are made for the samsung PLS screen that comes with the qnix or Xstar......Also about the NCX profile...he does not tell you what CD/M he created the profile at so you would never know at what brightness to set your screen at to display it correctly

If you believe these are to warm either datacolor have created a bad calibrator......which they have not as it gets fantastic reviews everywhere...or you have loaded them wrong or not used a Qnix monitor to view them on...


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> They are perfect on my monitor and not warm at all...the are all calibrated at 6500k white point and and the spyder 4 pro has 7 patches each for RGB where as most calibrators have only 3...this is datacolors most accurate color calibrator ever and they are not to warm...
> 
> I have the NCX profile also which looks warmer on my screen...you must remember every monitor will not produce the same colours...however these will get you fairly close...also have you installed and loaded the ICM files correctly?
> 
> Edit:..how can you say these are warm when it appears you don't even own a Qnix monitor yet?....what monitor did you load these profiles on?...these are made for the samsung PLS screen that comes with the qnix or Xstar......Also about the NCX profile...he does not tell you what CD/M he created the profile at so you would never know at what brightness to set your screen at to display it correctly
> 
> If you believe these are to warm either datacolor have created a bad calibrator......which they have not as it gets fantastic reviews everywhere...or you have loaded them wrong or not used a Qnix monitor to view them on...


I own an Xstar dp2710 currently.

and yes he said which cd/m he used for the color profile. (-16 clicks from maximum brightness)


----------



## lawson67

Well i suggest you get your screen looked at as theses are correct and not to warm for 6500k...or you have loaded them wrong or are not displaying them correctly...also my friend owns a X-Rite i1Display Pro and his calibration of my screen at 120hz at 140 cd/m is virtually identical to mine... even when loaded into a color spectrum side by side so the fault is not my calibrator or my ICM profiles...maybe you forgot take your sunglass off?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Is it worth to OC the monitor even if i only reach a steady 60fps ingame?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Is it worth to OC the monitor even if i only reach a steady 60fps ingame?


Yes browsing and such is much smoother.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Well i suggest you get your screen looked at as theses are correct and not to warm for 6500k...or you have loaded them wrong or are not displaying them correctly...also my friend owns a X-Rite i1Display Pro and his calibration of my screen at 120hz at 140 cd/m is virtually identical to mine... even when loaded into a color spectrum side by side so the fault is not my calibrator or my ICM profiles...maybe you forgot take your sunglass off?


Lol, nope I know how to load a icc profile, the one on yours has the whites tinted greenish.

Not all monitors are exactly the same though.


----------



## andom

Hey guys,

I'm trying to calibrate my monitor using color management, but my monitors don't appear in the dropbox. Clicking 'identify monitors' doesn't do anything either.

Does anyone know how to fix this?


----------



## robinaish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Hey are there any germans among us who ordered this monitor? If yes can you tell me how much you had to pay addiitionally VAT, fess etc.


From belgium here, have paid 44,18€ custom duty. Seller: exportprive.fr.


----------



## Osteoman

Ok I just setup my new Qnix and I have found zero stuck or dead pixels. Maybe, just maybe a hint of blacklight bleed in left lower edge but nothing significant.

I will be running more tests on it tonight.

I will say this, this screen looks way better then my Dell U2711. The stories you have heard on it are true the matte coating on it is way too aggressive.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robinaish*
> 
> From belgium here, have paid 44,18€ custom duty. Seller: exportprive.fr.


No VAT ?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Ok I just setup my new Qnix and I have found zero stuck or dead pixels. Maybe, just maybe a hint of blacklight bleed in left lower edge but nothing significant.
> 
> I will be running more tests on it tonight.
> 
> I will say this, this screen looks way better then my Dell U2711. The stories you have heard on it are true the matte coating on it is way too aggressive.


That was my last monitor so true. E

So worth going with that seller for extra?


----------



## Ehrenisnuts

Hello all.

I just got a QX2710LED in the mail yesterday and it did not work right out of the box. This is what I was greeted with when plugging everything in.





I have tried restarting my computer and using a different DVI-D cable than the one that came in the box. I'm using an old PSU cable for the power, not the Korean plug+adapter. I have not done anything with the monitor, display wise or overclocking. It's not my GPU (GTX770) either because the plugs work on my other monitor fine.

Any other suggestions or is it time to try and get a replacement?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andom*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm trying to calibrate my monitor using color management, but my monitors don't appear in the dropbox. Clicking 'identify monitors' doesn't do anything either.
> 
> Does anyone know how to fix this?


These monitors are not listed in windows colour management. you can use one of my calibrated profiles to correct the gamma shift at 120hz or 96 hz...these should be all you need for your calibration

I have made a few at different brighness.... because as you change the brightness you really need to recalibrate for that brightness if you are fussy....i have labelled my ICM files to the brightness i created them at...so for example a brightness of about.. "120 cd/m"....would be from a totally black screen using the BRI + key about 10 clicks up.....this should be about 120 cd/m and is the brightness recommended for photographers....i find this to dim for every day use...but for real hardcore photographers this is the brightness they use....

So i will pack a few for you to try all using the standard of 2.2 gamma and 6500k white point...they will all be labelled to which brightness "cd/m" i created them at....use this guide to help you set the correct brightness

So for ....brightness of 120 cd/m 10 clicks up on the BRI + button from a black screen

170 cd/m is BRI + button from a black screen 16 clicks up

200 cd/m BRI + button from a black screen 18 clicks up

max is flat out brightness

I have also added some 96hz profiles also...enjoy thumb.gif

Edit: i will also upload this handy little tool to apply your profiles with..(Color Keeper)

Also for anyone who wonders why there ICM profiles wont load on a reboot even tho they are set to system default...its becaurse microsoft have desgined Color management in a confusing way... follow this Guide to load your ICM profiles at windows start up

works for windows 7 and windows 8

1.Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
2.Select the display you want.
3.Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
4.Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
5.Click "ok"
6.Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
7.Spend hours searching the internet, asking questions, clicking, clicking on everything, and wondering why nothing is happening.
8.Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
9.Click on the new "advanced" tab and click "Use Windows Display Calibration".
10.Hit your head against a wall wondering why Windows would allow you to enter detailed settings for calibration and then bury the option that would actually apply any of them.
Steps 7 and 10 are optional.

Qnixicmprofiles.zip 29k .zip file


CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Jetlitheone try this ICM profile it is how i think NCX made his 120hz profile....it has been made using the Qnix native white point which is very very close to 6500k out of the box...in fact its 6551k....also Calibrating a monitor from its native white point is recommended now by many leading photographers like Andrew Rodney as it does not force the monitor to produce colors it can not make...try it and see what you think...the end result in a color spectrum was 99% of sRGB which is very good.

200 cd/m about 18 clicks up from black screen

Native120hz.zip 3k .zip file


Edit: this profile on my monitor looks fantastic compared to the NCX 120hz profile...his compared to this profile has black crush and a uncorrected higher Gamma. (looks darker)

Also on a footnote i do know that NCX could not run his monitor at 120hz as it artefact at 120hz....meaning his 120hz profile must of been calibrated while artefacting also meaning his 120hz profile would not be accurate.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> That was my last monitor so true. E
> 
> So worth going with that seller for extra?


Jet,

Ok my disclaimer is I can't guarantee you the same but I have no problem saying this monitor is awesome. No stuck pixels. The backlightbleed is so little as to almost not exist.

Excellentcastle delivered faster then I even thought possible. Also I made him an offer of $330 on his ultimate pp that was priced at $359 and he took it. Now I don't know if he is off for their holiday or not but I have already posted the timeline of how quick I received it. He may very we'll take less then what I offered but I simply offered him what others were selling the pp for.

I will work on the over clocking this weekend.


----------



## robinaish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> No VAT ?


44,18€ was what the postman asked, I don't have any details.


----------



## madhatter01

Question on refresh rate on desktop. If I set the desktop to 60hz and set battlefield4 to 120hz, battlefield does no feel like it is running at 120hz. If I set the desktop to 120hz and battlefield 4 to 60hz it feels like 120hz. So it appears you are limited to what ever windows desktop is at. Can someone else test or confirm this please. I dont know if I have just been staring at it too long, lol.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> Question on refresh rate on desktop. If I set the desktop to 60hz and set battlefield4 to 120hz, battlefield does no feel like it is running at 120hz. If I set the desktop to 120hz and battlefield 4 to 60hz it feels like 120hz. So it appears you are limited to what ever windows desktop is at. Can someone else test or confirm this please.


If you want full screen games to run at 120hz you must make your profile using CRU as opposed to using NVP or the ATI control panel to create a custom refresh rate.


----------



## madhatter01

I tried that. Does this look good?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> I tried that. Does this look good?


Yes however i would change the front porch to 48 pixels 1 lines
sync width 32 pixels 1 lines
back porch 12 pixels 3 lines
blacking 92 pixels 5 lines
and set totals to 2652x1445

this should lower the pixel clock a bit more and give you a stronger signal


----------



## winmag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shigueaki*
> 
> I've tried to oc my qnix and I may have done something wrong.
> I've create the new profile with 96hz and after reboot, I'm unable to change refresh rate at nvidia settings. Any help?


I had to run the patch below before I could get it to work on my Nvidia card.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## Far3nhe1t

WOW. I just got my X-Star in today and already have it OC to 120Hz. I don't see any dead pixels so far or any back light bleed. Im not even sure I want to ever look for the dead pixels. Hopefully I never see them







. Glad to be an owner!


----------



## Jetlitheone

Just ordered my qnix from accessorieswhole. Hopefully have better luck with this one









Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey Im in the process of buying one too, this one but what does the SE mean in the title?


----------



## tundotcom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Hey Im in the process of buying one too, this one but what does the SE mean in the title?


The dead pixel policy is a little worse. It's 0-5 on the SE. The regular one is 0-3.


----------



## boatnik

First time posting! I just got my QNIX from AccessoriesWholesale and so far I haven't seen any dead pixels and there is minimal backlight bleed. I have it OC'd to 96hz, 120hz wasn't stable for me and I didn't like how dark the screen got.

The only question I have is that the red hue seems a bit stronger on the QNIX compared to my ASUS 1080p sitting right next to it. I tried many of the ICC profiles posted, but I actually ended up liking the Windows calibration coloring the best. Maybe it's because of the red-ish hue I'm seeing? For example, a character's light pink shirt in a TV show appears a much darker shade of pink on my QNIX than my 1080p monitor. It doesn't look bad, maybe I'm just nitpicking







. Can anyone comment on this or have any idea how I can adjust the coloring a bit more?

EDIT: As far as the SE edition, I believe it also has to do with their shipping policy. The SE is only shipped to the US, Canada and Asia.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tundotcom*
> 
> The dead pixel policy is a little worse. It's 0-5 on the SE. The regular one is 0-3.


is that what the SE stands for or what?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boatnik*
> 
> First time posting! I just got my QNIX from AccessoriesWholesale and so far I haven't seen any dead pixels and there is minimal backlight bleed. I have it OC'd to 96hz, 120hz wasn't stable for me and I didn't like how dark the screen got.
> 
> The only question I have is that the red hue seems a bit stronger on the QNIX compared to my ASUS 1080p sitting right next to it. I tried many of the ICC profiles posted, but I actually ended up liking the Windows calibration coloring the best. Maybe it's because of the red-ish hue I'm seeing? For example, a character's light pink shirt in a TV show appears a much darker shade of pink on my QNIX than my 1080p monitor. It doesn't look bad, maybe I'm just nitpicking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can anyone comment on this or have any idea how I can adjust the coloring a bit more?
> 
> EDIT: As far as the SE edition, I believe it also has to do with their shipping policy. The SE is only shipped to the US, Canada and Asia.


how long did shipping take ?


----------



## boatnik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> how long did shipping take ?


3 days from South Korea to California. Pretty incredible! UPS Tracking number included as well.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

I can confirm CPKeeper is working for me in BF4 so far.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boatnik*
> 
> 3 days from South Korea to California. Pretty incredible! UPS Tracking number included as well.


So this is my first time importing a product do they send it directly to your door or does it stop in the customs duty where you have to pick it up and pay the fees?


----------



## boatnik

It does have to pass through customs, but I was not assessed any import fees. I believe if that happens the seller will bill you for the import tax - not positive though. Or the ebay sellers just declare the item as not very valuable so it doesn't get taxed. In either case I haven't heard of anyone having to pay import fees in the US on these monitors. Your package will end up straight at your door, unless it gets held up in customs somehow.


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> So this is my first time importing a product do they send it directly to your door or does it stop in the customs duty where you have to pick it up and pay the fees?


Usually imported stuff passes thru US customs in less then a day, then the shipper bring it to the listed address.
I've never hear about anyone having to pay an import duty.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

What is the deal with the Monex? Is it just another rebranded Crossover? Excellentcastle is claiming it is glossy and I wonder if that is real glossy or tempered glass.


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> So far:
> 
> Not a single faulty pixel


I spoke too soon, I found a red stuck pixel. Has anyone had any luck getting these unstuck?


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> How about 96Hz? Give that a try.


Yeah I'll try but I was hoping to have 110hz working again. I did re-install windows recently, it's possible I did something wrong but not sure what. Could it be I was meant to tick the "Interlaced" box?


----------



## lolana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> So you pay 250€ via paypal and later on 47,50€. Did you get a post mail from the administration which informed you about the VAT or how did it happen?


customs duty called me on the phone + sent an sms and DHL sent another post mail.
I sent the report of payment via e-mail and then had to pay the money directly to the postman.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> I spoke too soon, I found a red stuck pixel. Has anyone had any luck getting these unstuck?


First try just rubbing the pixel with a little pressure. Also try this websites to rapidly rotate the pixels variations on the screen http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html and then you can try both at the same time. Generally this will jump start a stuck pixel but there is always the chance it wont work. I have 4 stuck pixels on one of my Qnix monitors and it worked on 3 of them. So for the record to date i have had 12 stuck pixel and was able to fix 9 of them.

So about 3/4 of the time it seems to work(from my experience)


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Yeah it seem's fluent in the US im from germany though so we have weird laws.


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Hello,

somebody can explain to me why there's this big difference of price between some overclockable monitor (like Qnix, yamakasi,)

example: qnix 2710 is a best overclockable monitor in this moment on the market ok?

why the same seller (green) sell other monitor like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-1440p-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140919957473?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20cf7be7e1

but the price is double?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q271-RETINA-LED-FullHD-27-S-IPS-2560X1440-HDMI-PIP-Monitor-/110974176551


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> somebody can explain to me why there's this big difference of price between some overclockable monitor (like Qnix, yamakasi,)
> 
> example: qnix 2710 is a best overclockable monitor in this moment on the market ok?
> 
> why the same seller (green) sell other monitor like this:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-1440p-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140919957473?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20cf7be7e1
> 
> but the price is double?


The difference between many other overclockable monitors is IPS vs PLS. The Qnix is PLS where all previous korean panels where IPS. Also the price discrepancy is due to the hike that IPS overclocking panels got once korean sellers caught on the sales potential of what they had. Another big factor is supply and demand. The catleap 2B series has seemingly become rare and hard pressed for supply where the Qnix is still very much in stock. Also the Qnix is a bit new but we have already seem price hikes due to supplies with the straight glossy panels. These have been seen as high as 700 from some sellers where the matte is still holding its price. Also the Qnix being new has not suffered the same massive price hike fate that the catleaps did(yet). This may happen in the future since we are starting to see Qnix monitors being specifically listed as overclocking panels(not too much of a price hike yet)

Also the Qnix cannot be considered the "best" overclocking panel. It may very well be the "best bang for your buck" but the side effects during overclocking do downsize it a bit. Now IPS panels do have some side effects as well but nothing that necessarily effects the best part about IPS color(where the Qnix has gamma shift). Honestly the "best" overclocking korean panel combo would likely a AH-IPS panel merged with an overclocking control board. This would give you all the advantages of the AH-IPS display and no color effective side effects. Many of the other overclocking korean panels(catleap, yamaski) are a cheaper IPS panel type. However the AH-IPS combo would have a hefty price to back up its value(+800).

So for right now the Qnix is the best bang for your buck with a little assembly required(bezel BLB, gamma shift, etc) but is not necessarily the best choice excluding price.

Hope this clears things up


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> somebody can explain to me why there's this big difference of price between some overclockable monitor (like Qnix, yamakasi,)
> 
> example: qnix 2710 is a best overclockable monitor in this moment on the market ok?
> 
> why the same seller (green) sell other monitor like this:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-1440p-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140919957473?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20cf7be7e1
> 
> but the price is double?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q271-RETINA-LED-FullHD-27-S-IPS-2560X1440-HDMI-PIP-Monitor-/110974176551


The original overclockable monitors, the Catleap "2B" edition, were sold back in 2012, in February. After which point, they transitioned into the "2C" model; that is, March 2013. Around that point, it was discovered that a design revision had taken place, and the PCBs used were now cheaper and thus no longer able to overclock beyond about 67hz or so. The original, limited supply of "2B" Catleaps dried up very quickly once March came. Thus, the original, overclockable Catleaps became widely know as "2B" versions - even long after the moniker ceased to apply. There was some push by some enterprising members of this very forum to get Yamasaki to manufacture a limit run of Catleaps with the original PCB, which is rare and relatively expensive. They met with some success, and thus was born the Catleap Extreme Edition, which feature the same PCBs as the original "2B" Catleaps. However, the famous "2B" Catleaps had already gained fame and were already highly sought after, and thereafter, all Catleaps capable of being overclocked to 120hz have been referred to as "2B" Catleaps. This specialized, low-volume run though, meant higher prices to begin with, and combined with sole-sourcing them from a single vendor, has resulted in a virtual monopoly on "2B" Catleaps by green-sum, who is the _only_ source of new "2B" Catleaps left. Thus the high prices.

On the other hand, all single input Qnix and Xstars have been shown to overclock, and all sellers have access to them. Competition has thus driven the prices down to less than half that of the "2B" Calteaps.


----------



## Andros_Forever

I got myself a nice glossy Qnix qx2710 with very little BLB on the bottom left corner of the screen. If I understand correctly I have to disassemble the monitor to get rid of the bleed?

Currently I am overclocking it to 96hz for great smoothness while keeping the color accuracy. I can go all the way up to 120hz stable, but the image gets darker and less accurate.


----------



## Ehrenisnuts

Hello all.

I just got a QX2710LED in the mail yesterday and it did not work right out of the box. This is what I was greeted with when plugging everything in.





I have tried restarting my computer and using a different DVI-D cable than the one that came in the box. I'm using an old PSU cable for the power, not the Korean plug+adapter. I have not done anything with the monitor, display wise or overclocking. It's not my GPU (GTX770) either because the plugs work on my other monitor fine.

Any other suggestions or is it time to try and get a replacement?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ehrenisnuts*
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I just got a QX2710LED in the mail yesterday and it did not work right out of the box. This is what I was greeted with when plugging everything in.
> 
> I have tried restarting my computer and using a different DVI-D cable than the one that came in the box. I'm using an old PSU cable for the power, not the Korean plug+adapter. I have not done anything with the monitor, display wise or overclocking. It's not my GPU (GTX770) either because the plugs work on my other monitor fine.
> 
> Any other suggestions or is it time to try and get a replacement?


Try the monitor on a completely different computer if possible(or another port even). You have already tried basic troubleshooting with the hardware connected, a completely different computer is the only thing left regarding that troubleshooting route. Another thing you might check is the internal cable connection of the panel to the PCB. Other than that go for a replacement.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Try the monitor on a completely different computer if possible(or another port even). You have already tried basic troubleshooting with the hardware connected, a completely different computer is the only thing left regarding that troubleshooting route. Another thing you might check is the internal cable connection of the panel to the PCB. Other than that go for a replacement.


Who takes the return shipping fee in situations like this?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Who takes the return shipping fee in situations like this?


I would say the seller "should" but it depends on the sellers RMA policy(which you should know). If you bought a squaretrade warranty they would cover the shipping.


----------



## boatnik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Jetlitheone try this ICM profile it is how i think NCX made his 120hz profile....it has been made using the Qnix native white point which is very very close to 6500k out of the box...in fact its 6551k....also Calibrating a monitor from its native white point is recommended now by many leading photographers like Andrew Rodney as it does not force the monitor to produce colors it can not make...try it and see what you think...the end result in a color spectrum was 99% of sRGB which is very good.
> 
> 200 cd/m about 18 clicks up from black screen
> 
> Native120hz.zip 3k .zip file
> 
> 
> Edit: this profile on my monitor looks fantastic compared to the NCX 120hz profile...his compared to this profile has black crush and a uncorrected higher Gamma. (looks darker)
> 
> Also on a footnote i do know that NCX could not run his monitor at 120hz as it artefact at 120hz....meaning his 120hz profile must of been calibrated while artefacting also meaning his 120hz profile would not be accurate.


Would you happen to have a 96hz version as well? As I mentioned in an earlier post I'm having trouble with my monitor looking a bit too warm as well.


----------



## n00bftw

awesome stuff


----------



## lolana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> The difference between many other overclockable monitors is IPS vs PLS. The Qnix is PLS where all previous korean panels where IPS. Also the price discrepancy is due to the hike that IPS overclocking panels got once korean sellers caught on the sales potential of what they had. Another big factor is supply and demand. The catleap 2B series has seemingly become rare and hard pressed for supply where the Qnix is still very much in stock. Also the Qnix is a bit new but we have already seem price hikes due to supplies with the straight glossy panels. These have been seen as high as 700 from some sellers where the matte is still holding its price. Also the Qnix being new has not suffered the same massive price hike fate that the catleaps did(yet). This may happen in the future since we are starting to see Qnix monitors being specifically listed as overclocking panels(not too much of a price hike yet)
> 
> Also the Qnix cannot be considered the "best" overclocking panel. It may very well be the "best bang for your buck" but the side effects during overclocking do downsize it a bit. Now IPS panels do have some side effects as well but nothing that necessarily effects the best part about IPS color(where the Qnix has gamma shift). Honestly the "best" overclocking korean panel combo would likely a AH-IPS panel merged with an overclocking control board. This would give you all the advantages of the AH-IPS display and no color effective side effects. Many of the other overclocking korean panels(catleap, yamaski) are a cheaper IPS panel type. However the AH-IPS combo would have a hefty price to back up its value(+800).
> 
> So for right now the Qnix is the best bang for your buck with a little assembly required(bezel BLB, gamma shift, etc) but is not necessarily the best choice excluding price.
> 
> Hope this clears things up


Actually a 120hz overclockable monitor with AH-IPS panel and HDMI costs 424$ and not 800...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2755AMG-IPS-LED-27-AH-IPS-Panel-2560X1440-HDMI-DVI-MONITOR-/111124978764?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19df909c4c


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolana*
> 
> Actually a 120hz overclockable monitor with AH-IPS panel and HDMI costs 424$ and not 800...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2755AMG-IPS-LED-27-AH-IPS-Panel-2560X1440-HDMI-DVI-MONITOR-/111124978764?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19df909c4c


So I take it this these panels are true gloss?


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolana*
> 
> Actually a 120hz overclockable monitor with AH-IPS panel and HDMI costs 424$ and not 800...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2755AMG-IPS-LED-27-AH-IPS-Panel-2560X1440-HDMI-DVI-MONITOR-/111124978764?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19df909c4c


Thank you friends for the detailed answer!

thank you lolana! are you sure that this monitor is overclockable? i have GTX 680 OC 4GB


----------



## lolana

I have only read the description of the eBay article... I don't have this AH-IPS monitor.
There also is another similar monitor with higher price and model number and display port








http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2763AMG-IPS-LED-27-2560X1440-AH-IPS-DP-HDMI-DVI-MONITOR-/121191822247?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c379873a7


----------



## Tacoboy

My 27" 2560X1440 resolution monitor should be arriving with in a week.
Is my 1GB graphics card (AMD 6870) good enough for general use?


----------



## Ovrclck

I'm satisfied with my Qnix. No need to gas for another brand.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tacoboy*
> 
> My 27" 2560X1440 resolution monitor should be arriving with in a week.
> Is my 1GB graphics card (AMD 6870) good enough for general use?


yes.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Just ordered one from accesioreswhole in germany. I'm already praying to god.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Just ordered one from accesioreswhole in germany. I'm already praying to god.


Pray to god of BLB. lol









Kidding aside... Nothing to worry about. Unless a broken screen from transport.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

I'm actually praying to the PayPal Gods tonight - Today I learned that If you buy a product in Euro PayPal doesn't pay with your USD currency and since I only had USD they went straight to my bankaccount and I dont have enough money on that. I transfered the needed money from the paypal to my bankaccount right after I realised that I hope I am allowed to go under 100€ in negative on my bankaccount. Does anyone know If I have to pay the taxes at the door or do I have to pay it by transfering to their bankaccount.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolana*
> 
> Actually a 120hz overclockable monitor with AH-IPS panel and HDMI costs 424$ and not 800...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2755AMG-IPS-LED-27-AH-IPS-Panel-2560X1440-HDMI-DVI-MONITOR-/111124978764?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19df909c4c


Glad i saw this before mis-information ensued.

The defining spec here is actually the HDMI port, meaning this has a scaler making the overclock have more motion blur due to the reponse time through the scaler. The input lag increases to 22ms through this monitor's scaler making the monitor skip frames to keep up. Therefor it is a no go for me(at least for gaming). For anyone interested in this panel or wants "proof of concept" here is an amazing review by NCX(props to NCX)

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14389-crossover-2755amg-review-glass-2560x1440-ah-ips.html

And Just for clarification just in case anyone misses it, this panel doesn't properly overclock it skips frames from NCX

"
Despite the manufacturers claims the 2755AMG can not overclock to 120hz without skipping frames which is normal since every other properly tested multi-input 2560x1440 model has been unable to overclock. I used this Frame Skipping Test From Blur Busters to verify that the 2755AMG drops frames.
"

So NO this is NOT a viable or ideal overclockable AH-IPS screen with a valid overclock. Sorry guys but this panel does not yet exist and would have to be built listed by my last post.


----------



## digitalforce

Hey all, got my Qnix DVI-D Only Matte monitor and so far, besides some nasty light bleed int the upper right, it's all good. No dead pixels.

I've got the monitor stable @125hz with the highest quality Monoprice DVI but I've noticed, anything over 105hz or so, the white start to get more orange and overall, the brightness gets much lower. If I stick at 96hz or under, the monitor looks perfect. Whites are bright, colors are brilliant, etc.

So, a few questions:

1 - Has anyone seen this same thing happen at 100hz + ?

2 - If I do pick something under 120hz, does it matter if I got 110, 105, 96 or a certain hz?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Jetlitheone

Well income tax season, I already have dual 770's so I don't know what to buy







lmao


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Well income tax season, I already have dual 770's so I don't know what to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lmao


I know that feeling. Having all this money is dangerous lol


----------



## Jetlitheone

my ordered from accessorieswhole "shipped" last night but it hasnt updated via UPS yet.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I know that feeling. Having all this money is dangerous lol


Yep, girlfriend will kill me, I bought her an Xbox One and she never ever plays it... what a waste lol


----------



## Edgexcore

I am having some issues regarding SLI. Had the XStar for about a month, love it, very happy. I have 2x EVGA GTX 670 FTW's on my i7 920 build. It seems that now whenever I turn on SLI it will freeze up about every 4-5 seconds. I have used driver sweeper and uninstalled and reinstalled several of the Nvidia drivers from 320-332. Nothing fixes this issue... help? having this new monitor should not be causing these issues!!


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Jetlitheone try this ICM profile it is how i think NCX made his 120hz profile....it has been made using the Qnix native white point which is very very close to 6500k out of the box...in fact its 6551k....also Calibrating a monitor from its native white point is recommended now by many leading photographers like Andrew Rodney as it does not force the monitor to produce colors it can not make...try it and see what you think...the end result in a color spectrum was 99% of sRGB which is very good.
> 
> 200 cd/m about 18 clicks up from black screen
> 
> Native120hz.zip 3k .zip file
> 
> 
> Edit: this profile on my monitor looks fantastic compared to the NCX 120hz profile...his compared to this profile has black crush and a uncorrected higher Gamma. (looks darker)
> 
> Also on a footnote i do know that NCX could not run his monitor at 120hz as it artefact at 120hz....meaning his 120hz profile must of been calibrated while artefacting also meaning his 120hz profile would not be accurate.


By the way, GREAT profile.. Much better !


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edgexcore*
> 
> I am having some issues regarding SLI. Had the XStar for about a month, love it, very happy. I have 2x EVGA GTX 670 FTW's on my i7 920 build. It seems that now whenever I turn on SLI it will freeze up about every 4-5 seconds. I have used driver sweeper and uninstalled and reinstalled several of the Nvidia drivers from 320-332. Nothing fixes this issue... help? having this new monitor should not be causing these issues!!


Are you overclocking it? (the monitor)


----------



## Edgexcore

yes sir! 120hz, good to go!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Well income tax season, I already have dual 770's so I don't know what to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lmao


Same problem here. I'm not sure whether to get 290x's, 780ti's, spend more to get better 1440p (or 1600p monitors) than the Qnix, etc. First world problems....


----------



## Edgexcore

I can also confirm that the issue persists at both 60hz and 120hz on the monitor. Must be driver related....


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edgexcore*
> 
> yes sir! 120hz, good to go!


That's why, you need to patch the drivers, look back to post #1 in this thread and patch the nvidia drivers.

It'll work afterwards.


----------



## Edgexcore

I am a dumbas, I forgot to do this when I reinstalled them, thanks Jet!!!


----------



## digitalforce

Any one else see a lot darker display on Qnix 120hz vs 60hz or even 96hz?


----------



## madhatter01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Any one else see a lot darker display on Qnix 120hz vs 60hz or even 96hz?


Yes that is normal.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> Yes that is normal.


So basically if you OC to 120 it'll be guaranteed darker?


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> So basically if you OC to 120 it'll be guaranteed darker?


That was my question. I realize that a lot of people are using ICC profiles but honestly, if I stay under 120hz, I don't even need to adjust the colors/brightness.


----------



## Jetlitheone

It comes calibrated almost perfectly but you do need an ICC profile to run at 120hz and not have way too much gamma


----------



## playboysmoov

Just an FYI...... the QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte is on sale for 289 via accessorieswholesale.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *playboysmoov*
> 
> Just an FYI...... the QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte is on sale for 289 via accessorieswholesale.


Not bad!

Sent from Note 3


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Any one else see a lot darker display on Qnix 120hz vs 60hz or even 96hz?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> So basically if you OC to 120 it'll be guaranteed darker?


AT 120hz the gamma shifts higher meaning the screen looks darker which is normal as they are not really designed to run at this refresh rate.....However using a colour calibrator and applying the crated ICM file will completely correct the gamma shift at 120hz...use this 120hz ICM file i created for my Qnix at 120hz using my Spyder 4 pro colour calibrator...i have also included at ICM profile for 96hz

Use colour keeper to apply the profile...also the profile was made at 200 cd/m which is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen

Native120hz.zip 5k .zip file


CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Yep, girlfriend will kill me, I bought her an Xbox One and she never ever plays it... what a waste lol


sell it.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> sell it.


Lmao don't tempt me !


----------



## WoOkiE FTW

Is there any difference between the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II and the Evolution II SE? I see accesorieswhole selling the SE for a good 30 bucks cheaper and wasn't sure what the difference was, if any. Couldn't really find any differences by reading descriptions. I don't mind spending the extra money, but if there's no difference, why would I?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoOkiE FTW*
> 
> Is there any difference between the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II and the Evolution II SE? I see accesorieswhole selling the SE for a good 30 bucks cheaper and wasn't sure what the difference was, if any. Couldn't really find any differences by reading descriptions. I don't mind spending the extra money, but if there's no difference, why would I?


Yeah I actually contacted accessorieswhole about that the defect pixel guarantee is higher from max. 3 to max 5.


----------



## WoOkiE FTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Yeah I actually contacted accessorieswhole about that the defect pixel guarantee is higher from max. 3 to max 5.


Gotcha. I plan on getting one with my build I'm doing next month, so I'll spend the extra money. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Jetlitheone

The SE is still going to have the same results. Better off saving some money and getting the SE one since it's literally you get what you get


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> AT 120hz the gamma shifts higher meaning the screen looks darker which is normal as they are not really designed to run at this refresh rate.....However using a colour calibrator and applying the crated ICM file will completely correct the gamma shift at 120hz...use this 120hz ICM file i created for my Qnix at 120hz using my Spyder 4 pro colour calibrator...i have also included at ICM profile for 96hz
> 
> Use colour keeper to apply the profile...also the profile was made at 200 cd/m which is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen
> 
> Native120hz.zip 5k .zip file
> 
> 
> CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


Thank you for this but I found that ICC profiles don't stick in games.. I use it for games mostly.


----------



## boatnik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Thank you for this but I found that ICC profiles don't stick in games.. I use it for games mostly.


That's what CPKeeper is for I believe.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> The SE is still going to have the same results. Better off saving some money and getting the SE one since it's literally you get what you get


well its subjective If you can't live with 5 defect pixels you would be better of paying a little more I couldn't live with the fact that I have a (in the worst case) 5 defect pixels in the same area.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> well its subjective If you can't live with 5 defect pixels you would be better of paying a little more I couldn't live with the fact that I have a (in the worst case) 5 defect pixels in the same area.


but if you pay more even with the maximum 3 dead pixels it would still be a pain to return usually... Then again these sellers would work with you regardless as they live for positive feedback.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> AT 120hz the gamma shifts higher meaning the screen looks darker which is normal as they are not really designed to run at this refresh rate.....However using a colour calibrator and applying the crated ICM file will completely correct the gamma shift at 120hz...use this 120hz ICM file i created for my Qnix at 120hz using my Spyder 4 pro colour calibrator...i have also included at ICM profile for 96hz
> 
> Use colour keeper to apply the profile...also the profile was made at 200 cd/m which is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen
> 
> Native120hz.zip 5k .zip file
> 
> 
> CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


Thanks Lawson!

A few questions on CPKeeper:

#1 - I applied at 120hz, 18 clicks -- Looks great! The colors seem a bit less saturated but I am not sure if that is just me...

#2 - Does CPKeeper force the profile in games and on reboot or you do you have to apply it every time you boot into Windows?

#3 - Anything else I should know?

Thanks again!


----------



## WoOkiE FTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> but if you pay more even with the maximum 3 dead pixels it would still be a pain to return usually... Then again these sellers would work with you regardless as they live for positive feedback.


I know people on here have said it's not worth paying extra for perfect pixel, but accesorieswhole does say it's guaranteed 0 dead/stuck pixels on theirs. Anybody have experience with that?

Although, from what I have seen, even if you have 1 or 2, you can't even see them unless you really look for them.

I've not sat and read through the whole thread yet. Been going through stuff in the first post at the moment.


----------



## boatnik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Jetlitheone try this ICM profile it is how i think NCX made his 120hz profile....it has been made using the Qnix native white point which is very very close to 6500k out of the box...in fact its 6551k....also Calibrating a monitor from its native white point is recommended now by many leading photographers like Andrew Rodney as it does not force the monitor to produce colors it can not make...try it and see what you think...the end result in a color spectrum was 99% of sRGB which is very good.
> 
> 200 cd/m about 18 clicks up from black screen
> 
> Native120hz.zip 3k .zip file
> 
> 
> Edit: this profile on my monitor looks fantastic compared to the NCX 120hz profile...his compared to this profile has black crush and a uncorrected higher Gamma. (looks darker)
> 
> Also on a footnote i do know that NCX could not run his monitor at 120hz as it artefact at 120hz....meaning his 120hz profile must of been calibrated while artefacting also meaning his 120hz profile would not be accurate.


This is definitely the best 96hz profile I've tried. Thank you!


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoOkiE FTW*
> 
> I know people on here have said it's not worth paying extra for perfect pixel, but accesorieswhole does say it's guaranteed 0 dead/stuck pixels on theirs. Anybody have experience with that?
> 
> Although, from what I have seen, even if you have 1 or 2, you can't even see them unless you really look for them.
> 
> I've not sat and read through the whole thread yet. Been going through stuff in the first post at the moment.


Im pretty sure that they claim that it was pixel perfect when they checked it, but they don't guarantee that it'll stay in pixel perfect format when you get it I might be wrong though.


----------



## WoOkiE FTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WoOkiE FTW*
> 
> I know people on here have said it's not worth paying extra for perfect pixel, but accesorieswhole does say it's guaranteed 0 dead/stuck pixels on theirs. Anybody have experience with that?
> 
> Although, from what I have seen, even if you have 1 or 2, you can't even see them unless you really look for them.
> 
> I've not sat and read through the whole thread yet. Been going through stuff in the first post at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> I
> 'm pretty sure that they claim that it was pixel perfect when they checked it, but they don't guarantee that it'll stay in pixel perfect format when you get it I might be wrong though.
Click to expand...

Yeah I wouldn't pay that much for a PP one anyway most likely, even though it's still cheaper than most 1440p monitors. But they only ask like 280 for the max 5 pixels and I think 310-320 for max 3 pixels.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoOkiE FTW*
> 
> Yeah I wouldn't pay that much for a PP one anyway most likely, even though it's still cheaper than most 1440p monitors. But they only ask like 280 for the max 5 pixels and I think 310-320 for max 3 pixels.


Yeah as far as I know most of the people that ordered pixel perfect had still 1 or more defect pixels so that where my source is coming from.
I don't know usually if the defect pixels are well distributed it's realy not noticeable unless you sit with your face 5 cm from your monitor which I doubt the only real problem are the adjoined defect pixels.


----------



## Jetlitheone

The biggest issue I seem to have with these monitors are dust stuck inside them -,-


----------



## boatnik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Thanks Lawson!
> 
> A few questions on CPKeeper:
> 
> #1 - I applied at 120hz, 18 clicks -- Looks great! The colors seem a bit less saturated but I am not sure if that is just me...
> 
> #2 - Does CPKeeper force the profile in games and on reboot or you do you have to apply it every time you boot into Windows?
> 
> #3 - Anything else I should know?
> 
> Thanks again!


So I just downloaded Color Profile Keeper and you can set it to 1) Startup with Windows, 2) Apply the profiles you've selected at startup. That should be everything you need!


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> The biggest issue I seem to have with these monitors are dust stuck inside them -,-


Does that happen with a matte display? I thought it only appears by tempered glass.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Does that happen with a matte display? I thought it only appears by tempered glass.


happens with matte. Its usally bruises my mistake. It looks like dust but the monitor gets bruised from shipping and gets a mark on it. I've had this happen to me on much more expensive monitors. Quite annoying. Glossy doesn't have this issue since its hard but you deal with dust.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> happens with matte. Its usally bruises my mistake. It looks like dust but the monitor gets bruised from shipping and gets a mark on it. I've had this happen to me on much more expensive monitors. Quite annoying. Glossy doesn't have this issue since its hard but you deal with dust.


Can you clean it easily or?


----------



## digitalforce

Man, you guys are awesome! So far, with that new 120hz profile and CPKeeper, I am in good shape.. now.. just to try the light bleed tape fix. I am nervous though.. I don't want to ruin this bad boy!

Has anyone done the light bleed fix? It's ruining the top part of this otherwise GORGEOUS display.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Can you clean it easily or?


the bruise marks?

They don't come off they're there for good.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> the bruise marks?
> 
> They don't come off they're there for good.


I meant the dust stuck behind the screen? or did I misunderstood something?


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> My Qnix has been overclocked to 110hz for several months now, but suddenly I'm having an issue where after I log into windows my screen glitches with coloured lines. As shown in screenshot:
> 
> 
> 
> This happens 80% of the time after I log into windows, I have to reboot then, and keep rebooting until it doesn't happen. I used CRU "reset-all" and it doesn't happen anymore.
> 
> These were my setting for CRU when the problem was occuring:
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas what I can change to stop this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> How about 96Hz? Give that a try.


Just tried 96hz with same settings, the same problem occurs. Which is odd since when I first got the monitor it worked at 96hz without changing any other settings in CRU. Can anyone help?

e: Oh and I lowered back porch to 12 pixels.


----------



## shigueaki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Did you make sure to uncheck the "include extension block" ? CRU users with nvidia cards must uncheck this option.


Thanks!
It worked!


----------



## Gilles3000

ta-korea.global is offering a Qnix at $290 atm, Has anyone used this seller before or know someone who has? They don't mention anything about dead pixels so i'm somewhat hesitant. There's just "100% Quality Testing + Warranty", if that's worth anything.

Edit: And their description is confusing to say the least.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Thank you for this but I found that ICC profiles don't stick in games.. I use it for games mostly.


You can lock the colour profile into any application using colour keeper by ticking the box on the front of the app which says.. "lock profile"...However beware some games need exclusive use of your graphics card colour table...one such game is... "Metro last light"...if you try to force your colour profile into this game it will artefact and lock up!....so if you find this happens in any game untick that box!...
This happens because a lot games need total control of our graphics card for effects and so on...
Metro last light is a FPS game set in underground russia in the future...it does an incredible job having exclusive control of your grafics card and the colours... the game looks amazing especially at 2560x1440 and .i would recommended this game for anyone with a Nvidia graphics card as it makes great use of nvidia physx.

What normaly happens when you open a game... and the game needs exclusive use of your graphics card colours it will un-apply your ICC profile and should ..."but does not always"...re-apply you profile when you end the game and go back to desktop...

The best way to use your colour profile is to let windows and your games decide how to use it...this can be done by setting your profile as default in windows color management...This will apply your profile when you boot into windows.. "as long as you set it up corrcetly" ..and apply and un-apply your profile as applications demand.
Here is the correct way to set up Windows color managent so it loads your profile at windows start up...."meaning you do NOT need to use Colour Keeper"
This works for windows 7 and windows 8

1.Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
2.Select the display you want.
3.Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
4.Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
5.Click "ok"
6.Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
7.Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
8.Click on the new "advanced" tab and click "Use Windows Display Calibration".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Thanks Lawson!
> 
> A few questions on CPKeeper:
> 
> #1 - I applied at 120hz, 18 clicks -- Looks great! The colors seem a bit less saturated but I am not sure if that is just me...
> 
> #2 - Does CPKeeper force the profile in games and on reboot or you do you have to apply it every time you boot into Windows?
> 
> #3 - Anything else I should know?
> 
> Thanks again!


Read above and glad you are happy with your profile









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boatnik*
> 
> This is definitely the best 96hz profile I've tried. Thank you!


No problem at all


----------



## WoOkiE FTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> ta-korea.global is offering a Qnix at $290 atm, Has anyone used this seller before or know someone who has? They don't mention anything about dead pixels so i'm somewhat hesitant. There's just "100% Quality Testing + Warranty", if that's worth anything.
> 
> Edit: And their description is confusing to say the least.


Accessorieswhole has it for the same price, and people have had good experience with them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131095618252?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e85e862cc


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Just tried 96hz with same settings, the same problem occurs. Which is odd since when I first got the monitor it worked at 96hz without changing any other settings in CRU. Can anyone help?
> 
> e: Oh and I lowered back porch to 12 pixels.


I cant not believe its your monitor that is broken, as you say when you use the re-set all function with the patch the problem goes away!...i would be inclined delete any custom profiles in CRU use the patch to re-set all again and then uninstall the graphics drivers ...use a graphic driver cleaner program..."there are many out there"....and reinstall your graphics drivers and start from the beginning again apply patch.... use CRU to make custom profiles etc...sounds like your graphics drivers are corrupted or are the patch is not working correctly with your drivers anymore for whatever reason....start from a fresh driver install


----------



## digitalforce

Has anyone attempted a backlight bleed tape fix on their Qnix? If so, is it worth the risk? I have mine looking great except for that cursed backlight bleed...


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Has anyone attempted a backlight bleed tape fix on their Qnix? If so, is it worth the risk? I have mine looking great except for that cursed backlight bleed...


Several members including myself have successfully performed a BLB fix mod and/or debezeled the Qnix all together. I can say there is a bit of careful work involved but it is not at all hard to do. The level of how worth it that it might be is relative to how bad the BLB(or panel pressure) is or how much you hate the bezel.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Several members including myself have successfully performed a BLB fix mod and/or debezeled the Qnix all together. I can say there is a bit of careful work involved but it is not at all hard to do. The level of how worth it that it might be is relative to how bad the BLB(or panel pressure) is or how much you hate the bezel.


I don't mind the bezel at all but the BLB is pretty bad in the upper and lower right. Makes all the blacks look gray. It's fine when the whole screen image is up but when there is a black image, it's hugely distracting. I just want the easiest fix possible with the least amount of risk.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I don't mind the bezel at all but the BLB is pretty bad in the upper and lower right. Makes all the blacks look gray. It's fine when the whole screen image is up but when there is a black image, it's hugely distracting. I just want the easiest fix possible with the least amount of risk.


Well if you watch the videos in the OP to get an idea of the process taking it apart, get all the right things you might need before starting, and know what you are going to do there is very little risk. The monitor is really only a "panel" with some circuit boards connected inside. Opening it is not a huge risk if you give it the appropriate amount of effort and care.

It is not going to bite you, crack it open and reseat that panel







(after some studying)


----------



## outsider7p

Hey guys, does anyone know the life of one of these monitors if it's overclocked to round 96hz?

I'm really stuck between getting this and something like the AOC Q2770PQU

The lack of warranty has certainly made me take notice and the few people who have received broken monitors.

What do you guys think?

Thanks


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> Hey guys, does anyone know the life of one of these monitors if it's overclocked to round 96hz?
> 
> I'm really stuck between getting this and something like the AOC Q2770PQU
> 
> The lack of warranty has certainly made me take notice and the few people who have received broken monitors.
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> Thanks


There is no hard data in terms of life span at overclocked speeds. There has only been 2 or 3 reported failures of overclocked panels out of thousands of purchases. It stands to reason that the higher operation would decrease the lifespan of the panel but we might be talking about 25 years instead of 30 years(meaning not exactly considerable). The life span of a non overclocked panel has been debated and eventually the consensus was that it is the same as any name brand panel (+A vs -A is only a defect relative variance).

The warranty can be compensated by purchasing a Square Trade warranty for usually $50 more. Many have purchased this and not been disappointed including myself. You could also buy from newegg for a little more and have newegg's support(which is generally positive but possibly not as worry free as squaretrade).


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I don't mind the bezel at all but the BLB is pretty bad in the upper and lower right. Makes all the blacks look gray. It's fine when the whole screen image is up but when there is a black image, it's hugely distracting. I just want the easiest fix possible with the least amount of risk.


I believe in most cases as in my own you will find that the metal frame that the screen is sat in is bent....this is why many people take the bezel off beaurse the bezel is stright and pushing on a bent frame which makes the backlight bleed look even worse .....if you take your time you will find its an easy fix ...first unscrew the 4 lower screws at the bottom of the back of the monitor so you can pull the bezel off....lay your monitor on its back...screen faceing up take the bezel of by pulling around the edges...then pull the plastic sides of the back casing of the monitor away from the metal frame holding the monitor in place...this should allow the monitor to pop up from the casing and be free...there are wires underneath the monitor now so lift slowly and with caution so as NOT to pull or brack pull any of the wires..you can lift it up enough to unplug all the wire plugs from the back of the screen...
Once you have unpluged all the wires you will find if you lay the monitor on a flat surface it will be bent...in your case the same as mine running along the top of the monitor...mine in the middle reached a peek of nearly a inch high when face down in the frame on a flat works surface....it is not a hard job if you take your time to remove the frame off the monitor....and then once off using brute force with your hands and the flat works surface as a straight reference....to straighten the fame....once straight replace the monitor back into the frame and put it back in the case...this will completely cure all of your backlight bleed and you will also be able to replace the bezel....

BTW the tape fix is a waste of time if you did not straighten the bent frame...also you don't need any tape at all if you straighten the fame...all tape would try to do is fill in the gaps where the frame was bent crating a gap between the monitor and the frame therefore allowing the light to bleed though....i did not use any tape with my frame....just the straightening of the frame fixes the blacklight bleed 100%...i do not have any backlight bleed on my monitor after this fix what so ever now.

This not a hard fix i am a truck driver not a monitor technician....so take your time and you will be fine...i also believe from all i have read and seen this is apart from some screens with dead/stuck pixels is the only reason these screens are rejected and so therefore are A- screens....once you apply the fix you have a £800 monitor for £200 and a A+ quality monitor.....happy days









Edit: accessorieswhole along with the other sellers will tell you that even Apple do not take back screens with blacklight bleed!.....let me tell you this.. ..they do in the UK....my mother bought a TV it had some backlight bleed not as bad as most of these screen but was off putting enough in films with dark backgorunds and black bands above and below the films...i took the TV back to the salesman and he tested it while stood next to me...he changed it straight away....Apple and most reputable branded companys would NOT allow screen with the same intensity of backlight bleed that theses monitors have to pass there quality control test...they have reputations to keep and strong competitors to think about.....without this quality control people like accessorieswhole would NOT have anything to sell...so all the better for us....cos its an easy fix!


----------



## outsider7p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There is no hard data in terms of life span at overclocked speeds. There has only been 2 or 3 reported failures of overclocked panels out of thousands of purchases. It stands to reason that the higher operation would decrease the lifespan of the panel but we might be talking about 25 years instead of 30 years(meaning not exactly considerable). The life span of a non overclocked panel has been debated and eventually the consensus was that it is the same as any name brand panel (+A vs -A is only a defect relative variance).
> 
> The warranty can be compensated by purchasing a Square Trade warranty for usually $50 more. Many have purchased this and not been disappointed including myself. You could also buy from newegg for a little more and have newegg's support(which is generally positive but possibly not as worry free as squaretrade).


The problem is that I'm from the UK so I cannote get the squaretrade warranty, dropping £220 for something that might be broken with no support puts me on edge. If these damn things didn't overclock I wouldn't have such a hard time not buying one! Thats what bugs me about the "name brands"


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I cant not believe its your monitor that is broken, as you say when you use the re-set all function with the patch the problem goes away!...i would be inclined delete any custom profiles in CRU use the patch to re-set all again and then uninstall the graphics drivers ...use a graphic driver cleaner program..."there are many out there"....and reinstall your graphics drivers and start from the beginning again apply patch.... use CRU to make custom profiles etc...sounds like your graphics drivers are corrupted or are the patch is not working correctly with your drivers anymore for whatever reason....start from a fresh driver install


I reinstalled the driver and it seems to be working at 110hz again!

Thanks, I think it may have been caused by Afterburner (I didn't reinstall it when installing driver last time), but who knows.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> I reinstalled the driver and it seems to be working at 110hz again!
> 
> Thanks, I think it may have been caused by Afterburner (I didn't reinstall it when installing driver last time), but who knows.


Yep i had a feeling it was driver related when you said it was fine if you used the patch to re-set all...happy that you have fixed it now and glad that i could help you


----------



## Dyekid217

Hello everyone I'm currently an owner of the Crossover 27Q but I am really in the market for a 120hz monitor since I do a lot of gaming. My friend Is interested in my crossover which I may sell him to buy one of these. Either xstar or qnix I'm not sure yet.

Would u all say that the higher refresh rate is worth the switch since I play a lot of games? Mainly league of legends

I know the stand may not be as good but since the monitor is cheaper ill have no problem investing in a nice VESA mount


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Does anybody know if accesorieswhole also ships on saturdays?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> The problem is that I'm from the UK so I cannote get the squaretrade warranty, dropping £220 for something that might be broken with no support puts me on edge. If these damn things didn't overclock I wouldn't have such a hard time not buying one! Thats what bugs me about the "name brands"


Hi mate i am from the UK also...i think like this...when i overclock my CPU i need to use higher voltage and so therefore i need better cooling....why?...because the more voltage you use the hotter it gets.... its the heat from the higher voltage that stresses the components and so therefore shortens its life span....however if i raise the voltage and keep it as cool or cooler by using a water cooler system it should not shorten its life span in theory...same goes with graphics cards generally i will run more voltage though those to feed the higher frequency's i am asking then to provide for me...

However when we overclock these monitors we do NOT need to raise any voltage!...so therefore they should not be getting any hotter..i run my monitor at 120hz 24/7 and do not for one second believe i am stressing it or belive that it could blow it up on me...this is my personal point of view


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Does anybody know if accesorieswhole also ships on saturdays?


Normally I would think the Korean sellers do business on a Saturday, but it currently it's Korean new year, my Korean seller (Green-sum) posted that they would not reopen for business until Feb 2nd (Sunday).
I ordered my Yamakasi 27" late on Wednesday night, it's still sitting at Green-sum.


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Hello boys!! What do you think about this:

http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/27-monitors/products/tempest-x270oc-glossy

Is a specific monitor for overclock...


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi mate i am from the UK also...i think like this...when i overclock my CPU i need to use higher voltage and so therefore i need better cooling....why?...because the more voltage you use the hotter it gets.... its the heat from the higher voltage that stresses the components and so therefore shortens its life span....however if i raise the voltage and keep it as cool or cooler by using a water cooler system it should not shorten its life span in theory...same goes with graphics cards generally i will run more voltage though those to feed the higher frequency's i am asking then to provide for me...
> 
> However when we overclock these monitors we do NOT need to raise any voltage!...so therefore they should not be getting any hotter..i run my monitor at 120hz 24/7 and do not for one second believe i am stressing it or belive that it could blow it up on me...this is my personal point of view


Do you actually really run your monitor 24/7? Because thats what I would do with this monitor - did any problems occur while using it 24/7?


----------



## outsider7p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi mate i am from the UK also...i think like this...when i overclock my CPU i need to use higher voltage and so therefore i need better cooling....why?...because the more voltage you use the hotter it gets.... its the heat from the higher voltage that stresses the components and so therefore shortens its life span....however if i raise the voltage and keep it as cool or cooler by using a water cooler system it should not shorten its life span in theory...same goes with graphics cards generally i will run more voltage though those to feed the higher frequency's i am asking then to provide for me...
> 
> However when we overclock these monitors we do NOT need to raise any voltage!...so therefore they should not be getting any hotter..i run my monitor at 120hz 24/7 and do not for one second believe i am stressing it or belive that it could blow it up on me...this is my personal point of view


Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it!

Which seller would you recommend? is pixel perfect worth it?

Is there a good tutorial on how to debezel and straighten the frame if need be?

Also how long did the monitor take to arrive and what about customs? I hear I can tell them to value it at £100 so I dont get charged? :/

I know thats a lot of questions! haha Cheers buddy!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Do you actually really run your monitor 24/7? Because thats what I would do with this monitor - did any problems occur while using it 24/7?


Yep i run mine 120hz 24/7 and not had any problems at all...and i don't believe for one second i will have any problems with it....it is well known that if you have to use higher voltage to overclock something you need to keep it cooler or you will shorten its life span....i have been over clocking my computers for years...some of my old processors like my old core 2 extreme i could overclock without raising any voltage at all!.... that was overclocked 600mhz higher than stock without the need to raise any voltage and so therefore i did not need to upgrade the heat sink as it did not get any hotter!......i had that PC for 5 years and sold it to a friend...it still runs fine today...if you don't need to raise any voltage you should be fine


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tacoboy*
> 
> Normally I would think the Korean sellers do business on a Saturday, but it currently it's Korean new year, my Korean seller (Green-sum) posted that they would not reopen for business until Feb 2nd (Sunday).
> I ordered my Yamakasi 27" late on Wednesday night, it's still sitting at Green-sum.


Yeah Im pretty sure dream-seller is also in the holidays as he included his holidays in his ebay account, but accesorieswhole isn't I chatted yesterday with him and he didn't say anything about the holidays so I think he isn't affected by it.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it!
> 
> Which seller would you recommend? is pixel perfect worth it?
> 
> Is there a good tutorial on how to debezel and straighten the frame if need be?
> 
> Also how long did the monitor take to arrive and what about customs? I hear I can tell them to value it at £100 so I dont get charged? :/
> 
> I know thats a lot of questions! haha Cheers buddy!


HI Again bought mine from accessorieswhole and yes i did pay a bit more for pixel perfect...i did this for 2 reasons...one i know i could not live with stuck/dead pixels...also he seemed the only seller that garentteed me.."NOT ONE DEAD PIXEL"...number 2 if it did have dead pixels i would have Ebay on my side and would not be worried i had lost any money if was not happy with it...

As for how long it took to come...it was 4 days...i asked accessorieswhole if he could price it at $200 instead of UK pounds which he did...i thought i had got away with the customs income tax however one week later FEDEX sent me a letter asking for £35 they said they had to pay to customs get it released so they could deliver it to my house...i was happy to pay £35

it came with no dead pixels at all...just the standard backlight bleed which is something i could also not live with which is why i striped it down

There is no tutorial that i know of as to how to straighten the frame...however this guys films stripping it down and i think he used the tape method to help fix his backlight bleed ..i think that helped him with it but it would never totally cure it....its very easy to do really follow what he does and once you have unplugged the cables from the back of the metal framed monitor lift the frame out of the back case.....now take the monitor in the metal frame to a flat table top....i used my dining room table lol...and just lay it face down on there and look around it...i bet you will see the bend..now you know where it is strip the frame off the monitor...DON'T NOT TRY TO STRAIGHTEN THE FRAME WITH THE MONITOR SAT IN IT....that would be one shortcut you could well regret!....

Once the frame is off do not let anyone mess touch or go near the unframed monitor...also strighten the frame away from the monitor so you don't touch it or move it around.....it has layers of material on the lcd screen which do not want to be touched or moved around....so take the frame off the monitor carefully with the monitor faceing upwards....also when you put it back into the frame do it very carefully so as you don't move these layers on top of the screen....now once the frame is off just carefully with some controlled and at some points.. "heavy force" ...with your hands straighten the frame...as you push pull the frame keep putting it back on the flat surface to see if you need to straighten it more...this will show you which way you need to bend push pull it next to make it straight....or weather you have completed the straightening job...its not hard its real easy...once you have it laying flat on the tabletop without a curve in the frame anymore then you know it is straight and you can then put the monitor back into the frame....then frame back in case...plug the cables back in.... bezel on and your reassemble and back light bleeding will be 100% cured...below is the you tubes of the guy striping it down...he uses the tape fix...but i don't believe he checked to see if it was bent and so therefore the tape fix wont help that much...do as i say and straighten it....you will need no tape.
The whole strip down and straightening job and reassemble job took me about 30-40 mins.


----------



## outsider7p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> HI Again bought mine from accessorieswhole and yes i did pay a bit more for pixel perfect...i did this for 2 reasons...one i know i could not live with stuck/dead pixels...also he seemed the only seller that garentteed me.."NOT ONE DEAD PIXEL"...number 2 if it did have dead pixels i would have Ebay on my side and would not be worried i had lost any money if was not happy with it...
> 
> As for how long it took to come...it was 4 days...i asked accessorieswhole if he could price it at $200 instead of UK pounds which he did...i thought i had got away with the customs income tax however one week later FEDEX sent me a letter asking for £35 they said they had to pay to customs get it released so they could deliver it to my house...i was happy to pay £35
> 
> it came with no dead pixels at all...just the standard backlight bleed which is something i could also not live with which is why i striped it down
> 
> There is no tutorial that i know of as to how to straighten the frame...however this guys films stripping it down and i think he used the tape method to help fix his backlight bleed ..i think that helped him with it but it would never totally cure it....its very easy to do really follow what he does and once you have unplugged the cables from the back of the metal framed monitor lift the frame out of the back case.....now take the monitor in the metal frame to a flat table top....i used my dining room table lol...and just lay it face down on there and look around it...i bet you will see the bend..now you know where it is strip the frame off the monitor...DON'T NOT TRY TO STRAIGHTEN THE FRAME WITH THE MONITOR SAT IN IT....that would be one shortcut you could well regret!....
> 
> Once the frame is off do not let anyone mess touch or go near the unframed monitor...also strighten the frame away from the monitor so you don't touch it or move it around.....it has layers of material on the lcd screen which do not want to be touched or moved around....so take the frame off the monitor carefully with the monitor faceing upwards....also when you put it back into the frame do it very carefully so as you don't move these layers on top of the screen....now once the frame is off just carefully with some controlled and at some points.. "heavy force" ...with your hands straighten the frame...as you push pull the frame keep putting it back on the flat surface to see it you need to straighten it more...this will show you which way you need to bend push pull it next to make it straight....or weather you have completed the straightening job...its not hard its real easy...once you have it laying flat on the tabletop without a curve in the frame anymore then you know it is straight and you can then put the monitor back into the frame....then frame back in case...plug the cables back in.... bezel on and your reassemble and back light bleeding will be 100% cured...below is the you tubes of the guy striping it down...he uses the tape fix...but i don't believe he checked to see if it was bent and so therefore the tape fix wont help that much...do as i say and straighten it....you will need no tape.
> The whole strip down and straightening job and reassemble job took me about 30-40 mins.


WOW what a fantastic reply, you're really tempting me!

2 last questions, how ugly is the bezel in person and would you recommend getting a new stand?

Thanks


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> There is no tutorial that i know of as to how to straighten the frame...however this guys films stripping it down and i think he used the tape method to help fix his backlight bleed ..i think that helped him with it but it would never totally cure it....its very easy to do really follow what he does and once you have unplugged the cables from the back of the metal framed monitor lift the frame out of the back case.....now take the monitor in the metal frame to a flat table top....i used my dining room table lol...and just lay it face down on there and look around it...i bet you will see the bend..now you know where it is strip the frame off the monitor...DON'T NOT TRY TO STRAIGHTEN THE FRAME WITH THE MONITOR SAT IN IT....that would be one shortcut you could well regret!....


Can you easily unframe the monitor or does it take force?


----------



## OutlawII

Hi all been doing some reading in here thought i would ask for some advice,i play BF4 and Arma 3 and a few other games like those. What im wondering is how will i do with my 2 gig 680 i know i might have to lower some settings but will i notice being im jumping to 1440 from 1080?


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> AT 120hz the gamma shifts higher meaning the screen looks darker which is normal as they are not really designed to run at this refresh rate.....However using a colour calibrator and applying the crated ICM file will completely correct the gamma shift at 120hz...use this 120hz ICM file i created for my Qnix at 120hz using my Spyder 4 pro colour calibrator...i have also included at ICM profile for 96hz
> 
> Use colour keeper to apply the profile...also the profile was made at 200 cd/m which is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen
> 
> Native120hz.zip 5k .zip file
> 
> 
> CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


I was looking for the 96hz profile. I downloaded these zips and thought it would be in there. I'm sorry where is the 96hz one?

Also, thanks Lawson for all the excellent information and work you have done on these!! Great suff!

My Qnix I have OC to 96 hz and I have noticed the colors have only changed a little so I wanted to try the 96hz one you made. When I try to go to anything higher I get the stuttering/pausing effect that someone else had mentioned with the mouse cursor. No lines or any visual goofiness though. I did apply the patch. I am also running the latest Nvidea beta drivers for my SLI GTX 770 setup. Not sure how to correct that stuttering as I would love to run at 120hz.

Also for anyone interested, I bought from Excellentcastle on Monday and received my monitor in Texas on Wednesday. I bought the Ultimate perfect pixel one for $330 and it does not have any stuck or dead pixels and the BLB is almost non-existent in the lower left. Not enough to bother taking the bezel off for sure. BTW the colors by default are gorgeous on this thing. Way better then my Dell U2711.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Can you easily unframe the monitor or does it take force?


You do not need any force to remove the frame off the monitor...have the monitor face up on the table top and remove the frame with it face up...once you have it laying on your table top remove to 2 rails one on each side of the monitor frame....there are 2 screws that hold these rails on.....these rails are screwed to the sides of the frame to hold the monitor in the case...see my picture below of the rail and screws you need to remove...

once you take these 2 rails off it will become clear how easy it is to remove frame from the monitor...the only important thing to remember is...that once the frame is lose or off the monitor the diffuser layers that sit on top of the screen could be moved!... if you picked up the monitor while not in the frame they could move or slide off the screen....or if you have kids that ran into the room and touched it they could move etc...so when you take the frame off the monitor beware that there of the diffuser layers of material that are just sat there now with nothing holding them in place...so of course you would not want to pick the monitor up with no fame holding these layers in place...as they could move or if stood upright one could even slide off the screen!...please don't let this put you removing the frame..as long as you are aware of them they will not move an inch...below is a picture of one of the 2 rails you need to remove so as you can then remove the frame.

Edit: in the picture my monitor is face down on my dining room table on a towel...once the rails are off flip the screen up and remove the frame with the monitor screen facing upwards.....NOT as in the picture face down!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I was looking for the 96hz profile. I downloaded these zips and thought it would be in there. I'm sorry where is the 96hz one?
> 
> Also, thanks Lawson for all the excellent information and work you have done on these!! Great suff!
> 
> My Qnix I have OC to 96 hz and I have noticed the colors have only changed a little so I wanted to try the 96hz one you made. When I try to go to anything higher I get the stuttering/pausing effect that someone else had mentioned with the mouse cursor. No lines or any visual goofiness though. I did apply the patch. I am also running the latest Nvidea beta drivers for my SLI GTX 770 setup. Not sure how to correct that stuttering as I would love to run at 120hz.
> 
> Also for anyone interested, I bought from Excellentcastle on Monday and received my monitor in Texas on Wednesday. I bought the Ultimate perfect pixel one for $330 and it does not have any stuck or dead pixels and the BLB is almost non-existent in the lower left. Not enough to bother taking the bezel off for sure. BTW the colors by default are gorgeous on this thing. Way better then my Dell U2711.


There you go









SamsungQnixQX2710LED-96hzday200cdm.zip 2k .zip file


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> As for how long it took to come...it was 4 days...i asked accessorieswhole if he could price it at $200 instead of UK pounds which he did...i thought i had got away with the customs income tax however one week later FEDEX sent me a letter asking for £35 they said they had to pay to customs get it released so they could deliver it to my house...i was happy to pay £35


Could you explain the whole customs tax situation a bit further? The accesorieswhole perfect pixel monitor is currently priced at at $399 or €296. So do i ask him to price it differently on paper to reduce or avoid customs tax? This is pretty much the last thing i'm worried about before i pull the trigger on either this one or one from another seller that has up to max 1 black pixel guaranteed(Which i might be able to live with.) for quite a bit less.


----------



## Jointedman

Hello everyone

I thought i shared my icm profiles using the X-Rite i1Display Pro for the QNIX 2710, give them a try, they might work for you or not.
i have several for 60Hz, 96Hz, and 110Hz. All profiles aim to give 120cdm @6500K. Check em out!

60Hz
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fv550cc2nufv24d/QX2710%20120cdm%20922ct%206502k%2060Hz%20%209CLICKS.icm

96Hz
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vokumx9hip1c77y/QX2710%20117cdm%20938ct%206478k%2096Hz%20DAYS%209CLICKS.icm

110Hz
https://www.dropbox.com/s/viate9wgpzsvxc5/QX2710%20122cdm%20907ct%206498k%20110Hz%20NIGHTS%2010CLICKS.icm


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Could you explain the whole customs tax situation a bit further? The accesorieswhole perfect pixel monitor is currently priced at at $399 or €296. So do i ask him to price it differently on paper to reduce or avoid customs tax? This is pretty much the last thing i'm worried about before i pull the trigger on either this one or one from another seller that has up to max 1 black pixel guaranteed(Which i might be able to live with.) for quite a bit less.


There is not to much that i think i can explane about custom tax as i am a truck driver and not a custom official!....however in the uk when you import electrical items they want you to pay tax on it...the higher the value of the item the more tax you will pay.....they probably want this money cos you got a bargain and they don't want to feel left out! ... so they want to rob you of just a little bit more money so as to make you feel that you didn't quite the bargain you thought you was going to get i guess lol

Anyhow i paid him the money he was asking for which was more than $200 thats just a price i told him to put on the paperwork for the customs to see so as i would pay less tax...naughty of me i know but hey that's life


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> There you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SamsungQnixQX2710LED-96hzday200cdm.zip 2k .zip file


Thank you sir! You are appreciated.

Do I remember reading that this was 16 clicks off the black screen or was it also 18 like the 120hz one?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> There is not to much that i think i can explane about custom tax as i am a truck driver and not a custom official!....however in the uk when you import electrical items they want you to pay tax on it...the higher the value of the item the more tax you will pay.....they probably want this money cos you got a bargain and they don't want to feel left out! ... so they want to rob you of just a little bit more money so as to make you feel that you didn't quite the bargain you thought you was going to get i guess lol
> 
> Anyhow i paid him the money he was asking for which was more than $200 thats just a price i told him to put on the paperwork for the customs to see so as i would pay less tax...naughty of me i know but hey that's life


We pay plenty of taxes already around here don't we, so messing with them once in a while shouldn't be a problem







. Anyway, thanks for your help, hopefully I'll get a good one.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Could you explain the whole customs tax situation a bit further? The accesorieswhole perfect pixel monitor is currently priced at at $399 or €296. So do i ask him to price it differently on paper to reduce or avoid customs tax? This is pretty much the last thing i'm worried about before i pull the trigger on either this one or one from another seller that has up to max 1 black pixel guaranteed(Which i might be able to live with.) for quite a bit less.


Well assessorieswhole usually displays a value of 200$ for the monitors I wouldn't risk lowering it since it could count as tax dodging, but then again I'm in germany and they are pretty strict about that here.


----------



## amorello

Just got the qnix monitor I plugged it in and I have splash screens of automated dead pixel testing. How do I get out of it?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Thank you sir! You are appreciated.
> 
> Do I remember reading that this was 16 clicks off the black screen or was it also 18 like the 120hz one?


18 clicks up from a black screen









Edit 17 clicks up sorry...i forgot at 200 cdm as you lower the hz the screen gets brighter so knock one click off


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Edit: in the picture my monitor is face down on my dining room table on a towel...once the rails are off flip the screen up and remove the frame with the monitor screen facing upwards.....NOT as in the picture face down!


I was about to say








So after removing the scews do you flip the monitor and pick up the monitor or the frame?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> I was about to say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after removing the scews do you flip the monitor and pick up the monitor or the frame?


Yep flip the whole lot upwards then take frame off


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> Just got the qnix monitor I plugged it in and I have splash screens of automated dead pixel testing. How do I get out of it?


After the splash loops for 10mins the screen goes blank.and the on/off light starts blinking red.


----------



## Osteoman

I just discovered something interesting. I have overclocked to 96hz within control panel, no issue. Confirmed OC on website. Locked vsync in Nvidea control panel and tested some games. They are all stopping at 60fps, like the games don't see the OC. The gamma changes as expected with the OC. The OC is confirmed on the frameskipping website at 96hz. When I take off vsync the games FPS soar as expected, but for some reason the games are still seeing the max refresh rate of 60.

????? What did I do wrong? I'm running 2 GTX 770s in SLI with SLI appropriately set in the Nvidea control panel. I am running the latest Nvidea beta drivers that just came out within the last few days.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I just discovered something interesting. I have overclocked to 96hz within control panel, no issue. Confirmed OC on website. Locked vsync in Nvidea control panel and tested some games. They are all stopping at 60fps, like the games don't see the OC. The gamma changes as expected with the OC. The OC is confirmed on the frameskipping website at 96hz. When I take off vsync the games FPS soar as expected, but for some reason the games are still seeing the max refresh rate of 60.
> 
> ????? What did I do wrong? I'm running 2 GTX 770s in SLI with SLI appropriately set in the Nvidea control panel. I am running the latest Nvidea beta drivers that just came out within the last few days.


Yep this will happen...if you create a custom resolution with NVCP alone it will not apply the overclock in your games...you will only see it on your desktop....you need to use CRU and apply your resolutions this way.....then reboot...then go to NVCP and select the new refresh rate....after that you will get 96fps in all your games on desktop on the web etc...


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep this will happen...if you create a custom resolution with NVCP alone it will not apply the overclock in your games...you will only see it on your desktop....you need to use CRU and apply your resolutions this way.....then reboot...then go to NVCP and select the new refresh rate....after that you will get 96fps in all your games on desktop on the web etc...


I did do it through the CRU though. I have four in there including the 96hz one which is at the top of the listing within the CRU.

In fact the option to go to 96hz wasn't available in NVCP until I set it in the CRU.

Something not right within the CRU maybe?


----------



## amorello

Hmm why isn't anyone helping out?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> After the splash loops for 10mins the screen goes blank.and the on/off light starts blinking red.


What kind of PC is the monitor connected to.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> WOW what a fantastic reply, you're really tempting me!
> 
> 2 last questions, how ugly is the bezel in person and would you recommend getting a new stand?
> 
> Thanks


I don't mind the bezel at all...its not ugly its gloss black with Qnix written on the bottom of it....i would NOT want to remove it because of backlight bleed like some have done to take the pressure of the bent frame and leve it off...god NOO!...not for me...i would sooner take the frame out and straighten it so i could have the bezel on and have it looking like a cool monitor....

Also i don't mind the stand at all...infact i bought a new VESA stand for it before it arrived at my house from Korea because everyone was saying before i got it how bad the stand was...however i removed the stand it came with and tried on my new VESA stand....just cos i bought it relly i thought i should fit it....but i took it back off again and put back on the stand it came with it...
I did not like my VESA stand becaurse it made my monitor to high up....the standard one i think is fine...there are 2 philps screws holding it in place inside the casing...remove the bezel pop up the monitor frame and tighten them up...that fixed any movement i had in my stand...plus i think the stand it comes with also looks nice


----------



## amorello

My desktop, I returned my VG248QE which was connected via DVI to my hd4600. Used the cable from the box and connected to my hd4600 again.


----------



## Osteoman

Lawson,

Do you think this is playing a role?

Note for NVIDIA users: GeForce Experience is known to cause issues with EDID overrides such as resolutions being listed in the NVIDIA control panel but not in the Windows screen resolution settings. Either uninstall "NVIDIA GeForce Experience" through the Windows control panel, or install the NVIDIA driver without GeForce Experience by using the custom install option.

I found this in the CRU information. I do have Gforce experience that I am using. The refresh rate option above 60 is not in the windows resolution setting and it is in the NVCP.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I did do it through the CRU though. I have four in there including the 96hz one which is at the top of the listing within the CRU.
> 
> In fact the option to go to 96hz wasn't available in NVCP until I set it in the CRU.
> 
> Something not right within the CRU maybe?


Did you patch the drivers?...did you delete and custom resolutions you made with only the nvidia control panel if you maKe any?....i am at a loss...only thing i can think of is that you made a 96hz custom resolution with NVCP and you have applied that one instead of the one you made with CRU...also i don't think you need to patch drivers if you are not going over 96hz...so all i can think of is you have made one with NVCP and you selected that one instead of the one CRU made you...also did you reboot after you made the ones with CRU?....if all fails delete all custom resolutions and start over again using only CRU then reboot and try again.....only thing i can think of.


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> Hello everyone I'm currently an owner of the Crossover 27Q but I am really in the market for a 120hz monitor since I do a lot of gaming. My friend Is interested in my crossover which I may sell him to buy one of these. Either xstar or qnix I'm not sure yet.
> 
> Would u all say that the higher refresh rate is worth the switch since I play a lot of games? Mainly league of legends
> 
> I know the stand may not be as good but since the monitor is cheaper ill have no problem investing in a nice VESA mount


could someone answer my question?? Just wanting to know if the switch will be worth it for the extra Hz if I play alot of games. I'm running on a single GTX 660Ti


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Lawson,
> 
> Do you think this is playing a role?
> 
> Note for NVIDIA users: GeForce Experience is known to cause issues with EDID overrides such as resolutions being listed in the NVIDIA control panel but not in the Windows screen resolution settings. Either uninstall "NVIDIA GeForce Experience" through the Windows control panel, or install the NVIDIA driver without GeForce Experience by using the custom install option.
> 
> I found this in the CRU information. I do have Gforce experience that I am using. The refresh rate option above 60 is not in the windows resolution setting and it is in the NVCP.


Yes for sure you need to uninstall nvidia experience or it will not work at all...i had to also....i know its a shame but needs must









Oh you don't have nvidia experience installed?...check look in add remove programs for it...also your 96 hz should be in the NVCP dont worry about windows resolution setting....also did you uncheck ..."include extension block" ...in CRU when you made the custom profiles...cos if you did NOT untick that box that's why.


----------



## amorello

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1767786 This might be my answer, if so then I need to get my gpu right away!
Is there any way I could connect the monitor? With an adapter or something? So I can do my work in a crippled resolution until the gpu arrives?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> could someone answer my question?? Just wanting to know if the switch will be worth it for the extra Hz if I play alot of games. I'm running on a single GTX 660Ti


You don't get guaranteed 120hz and you wont profit as much from the switch if you only play league and even If you play other games it doesn't matter until you enter the semi-professional stage.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> could someone answer my question?? Just wanting to know if the switch will be worth it for the extra Hz if I play alot of games. I'm running on a single GTX 660Ti


It depends on if you want to run the games at 1440...with just one gtx660ti you wont hit 120 fps in all modern games at ultra...i have 2 gtx660 in sli i like ultra settings...not all my games i can hit 120 in ultra though....however a 120hz pls monitor to me is worth it...many games i can play at 120fps and the desktop the browsing the web everything is so smooth at 120hz.....just get one and and get another gtx660 ti









Yes that's a point you might not be able to hit 120hz...its the gamble you take...mine hits 130hz


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> It depends on if you want to run the games at 1440...with just one gtx660ti you wont hit 120 fps in all modern games at ultra...i have 2 gtx660 in sli i like ultra settings...not all my games i can hit 120 in ultra though....however a 120hz pls monitor to me is worth it...many games i can play at 120fps and the desktop the browsing the web everything is so smooth at 120hz.....just get one and and get another gtx660 ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that's a point you might not be able to hit 120hz...its the gamble you take...mine hits 130hz


I mean it's not like im dishing out extra to get one of these.. I'll be selling my Crossover for the same price it costs to get a Qnix. I'm hitting a steady 160fps as is in league on very high settings but i'd like the smoother movement for less eye strain as well as snappier mouse movements, Which I find is quite important when playing an RTS like League.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> I mean it's not like im dishing out extra to get one of these.. I'll be selling my Crossover for the same price it costs to get a Qnix. I'm hitting a steady 160fps as is in league on very high settings but i'd like the smoother movement for less eye strain as well as snappier mouse movements, Which I find is quite important when playing an RTS like League.


you will not hit 120hz in a lot of games on higher settings at 1440p

the 660ti just doesnt cut it

IMO only worth it if you got another 660ti but that still wouldnt be enough for all games lol..


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amorello*
> 
> My desktop, I returned my VG248QE which was connected via DVI to my hd4600. Used the cable from the box and connected to my hd4600 again.


an intergrated gpu?

That's why this will NOT work with an iGPU you need a dedicated GPU


----------



## Osteoman

Ok then it's likely the Geforce Experience.

I never created a custom resolution in NVCP at all.

I also do have the box unchecked you mentioned.

I like the Geforce Experience but I will lose it and confirm that was the issue.

Thanks for your help Lawson.


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> you will not hit 120hz in a lot of games on higher settings at 1440p
> 
> the 660ti just doesnt cut it
> 
> IMO only worth it if you got another 660ti but that still wouldnt be enough for all games lol..


As I stated earlier I am not dishing out any extra cash to make the switch.. It's just a matter of getting it shipped to me since I'll be selling the crossover for what the Qnix costs.

Mainly want the 120hz because I get some screen tearing running 160-200 FPS with vsync off. With vsync on there's just too much input lag. I really just play League and I can always add a card later down the road


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> I mean it's not like im dishing out extra to get one of these.. I'll be selling my Crossover for the same price it costs to get a Qnix. I'm hitting a steady 160fps as is in league on very high settings but i'd like the smoother movement for less eye strain as well as snappier mouse movements, Which I find is quite important when playing an RTS like League.


Dont think about it just do it


----------



## amorello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> an intergrated gpu?
> 
> That's why this will NOT work with an iGPU you need a dedicated GPU


I'm reading now that HD 4600 igpu does not support 1440p over DVI, only via displayport. That's real bad but can I get a converter so I can temporarly use it until the gpu comes? I don't care if the resolution downscales.
Thanks for the reply, +reped


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Dont think about it just do it


thanks I think I will since I'm not rreally losing out on anything. I've never experienced anything over 60hz other than the Hobbit movies lol and those were just awesome.

I think it'll be worth it just for the snappier mouse movement


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Ok then it's likely the Geforce Experience.
> 
> I never created a custom resolution in NVCP at all.
> 
> I also do have the box unchecked you mentioned.
> 
> I like the Geforce Experience but I will lose it and confirm that was the issue.
> 
> Thanks for your help Lawson.


You may also find once you uninstall Nvidia experience you will need to delete your resolutions and recreate them and then reboot again...try it out first without doing that and if same result do what i just said to do...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> thanks I think I will since I'm not rreally losing out on anything. I've never experienced anything over 60hz other than the Hobbit movies lol and those were just awesome.
> 
> I think it'll be worth it just for the snappier mouse movement


Good for you mate...and welcome to the club


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I just discovered something interesting. I have overclocked to 96hz within control panel, no issue. Confirmed OC on website. Locked vsync in Nvidea control panel and tested some games. They are all stopping at 60fps, like the games don't see the OC. The gamma changes as expected with the OC. The OC is confirmed on the frameskipping website at 96hz. When I take off vsync the games FPS soar as expected, but for some reason the games are still seeing the max refresh rate of 60.
> 
> ????? What did I do wrong? I'm running 2 GTX 770s in SLI with SLI appropriately set in the Nvidea control panel. I am running the latest Nvidea beta drivers that just came out within the last few days.


I just reread this and you say you are using SLI...for SLI you need to use the full Nvidia patch before using CRU...did you do this?...if you did not over and above the nvidIa experience problem this is also another major reason why its not working.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You may also find once you uninstall Nvidia experience you will need to delete your resolutions and recreate them and then reboot again...try it out first without doing that and if same result do what i just said to do...


Will do when I get back to the house. Thanks Lawson for all your help. I'll post when done to confirm that was it for future reference


----------



## outsider7p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I don't mind the bezel at all...its not ugly its gloss black with Qnix written on the bottom of it....i would NOT want to remove it because of backlight bleed like some have done to take the pressure of the bent frame and leve it off...god NOO!...not for me...i would sooner take the frame out and straighten it so i could have the bezel on and have it looking like a cool monitor....
> 
> Also i don't mind the stand at all...infact i bought a new VESA stand for it before it arrived at my house from Korea because everyone was saying before i got it how bad the stand was...however i removed the stand it came with and tried on my new VESA stand....just cos i bought it relly i thought i should fit it....but i took it back off again and put back on the stand it came with it...
> I did not like my VESA stand becaurse it made my monitor to high up....the standard one i think is fine...there are 2 philps screws holding it in place inside the casing...remove the bezel pop up the monitor frame and tighten them up...that fixed any movement i had in my stand...plus i think the stand it comes with also looks nice


Thanks for your advice buddy! I'm basically stuck between a Qnix and one of these: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/27-aoc-q2770pqu-ips-quad-hd-2560x1440-hdmi-dvi-vga-dp-usb-80m1-300cd-2-5ms

I have real trouble dealing with the potential issues i might encounter and basically no warranty. But the 96hz~ just won't get out of my mind! tell me, is it that noticeable?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> Thanks for your advice buddy! I'm basically stuck between a Qnix and one of these: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/27-aoc-q2770pqu-ips-quad-hd-2560x1440-hdmi-dvi-vga-dp-usb-80m1-300cd-2-5ms
> 
> I have real trouble dealing with the potential issues i might encounter and basically no warranty. But the 96hz~ just won't get out of my mind! tell me, is it that noticeable?


No way. AOC is a terrible brand.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> Thanks for your advice buddy! I'm basically stuck between a Qnix and one of these: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/27-aoc-q2770pqu-ips-quad-hd-2560x1440-hdmi-dvi-vga-dp-usb-80m1-300cd-2-5ms
> 
> I have real trouble dealing with the potential issues i might encounter and basically no warranty. But the 96hz~ just won't get out of my mind! tell me, is it that noticeable?


I can not tell you what to do....i can only tell you what i would do.....looking at the spec on the other one it its an IPS screen so same beautiful colours we have with the PLS screen...its Response Time: 5 ms....the Qnix is 6ms....not enough difference to be noticeable....that screen has 1 x D-Sub, 1 x DisplayPort, 1 x DVI-D In....so it has a scaler and will only EVER run at 60hz....we only have one input being a DVI-D we have NO scaler but we dont care ....we know we can only hook up to a computer we can NOT use our xbox with our Qnix screen or anything other that our computer...but we still dont care...because we dont want to or need to plug anything else in it other than our computers...also we know we can overclock it...we know we can hit 96hz at the very least...but most can easily hits 120hz...dam mine hits 130hz..and i have not even tried any higher!

To me its no contest i want a 96hz - 120hz PLS monitor only to use on my destop pc...i will be getting it over £100 cheaper than that one..plus i know if i pay jsut a little extra i will get a pixel perfect one...or Ebay will be on my side and i can return it and have a full refund..i will never be losing out on this deal...for me especially i would not care about the backlight bleed because i know i could easily fix that in 40 mins....in fact i would expect to have backlight bleeding i am buying a A- Grade screen....but that's why its cheap...however i know that once i fix that backlight bleed which i will do i will have a A+ grade monitor with a fanstastic screen...which is now the same quality of any Apple Cinema screen and yet infact...mine is even better than there's because there's can NEVER overclock...Mine can and looks as good if not better than theres...make no mistake this is a high quality great screen its colour temperature out of the box is a near perfect 6551k at 60hz .

To me there is no contest i would buy the Qnix every single time...and once you have had a 96hz-120hz monitor you would never go back!

Edit: that monitor is £398.72 Inc VAT...you could nearly buy 2 Qnix monitors for the price of one of them!....no contest!...also don't worry about there great selling point of "you even get 2 USB ports in the back of the monitor"...yeah for £10 i have a 4 port USB 3 hub double-sided taped on the back of my Qnix


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I just reread this and you say you are using SLI...for SLI you need to use the full Nvidia patch before using CRU...did you do this?...if you did not over and above the nvidIa experience problem this is also another major reason why its not working.


Yes sir, I ran the patch right after I downloaded the newest drivers exactly per the instructions.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Yes sir, I ran the patch right after I downloaded the newest drivers exactly per the instructions.


Ok i know its hard to do because i loved the way Nvidia experience set up my games also...but it has got to go!....Then do what we have already talked about and let me know what happens...however i might not read that untill tommorow now becaurse its 3.00am in the UK now...and my bed is calling me and my girfriend hates me becourse i have not paied her enough attention tonight


----------



## bmgjet

14.1 mantle driver doesnt work with the patcher.
Can some body let toastyX know.


----------



## OutlawII

Ordered the Qnix tonight with matte finish wish me luck!!


----------



## playboysmoov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Ordered the Qnix tonight with matte finish wish me luck!!


Good luck as I am hoping mine comes in good shape as well. I got the square trade warranty just in case...never know


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok i know its hard to do because i loved the way Nvidia experience set up my games also...but it has got to go!....Then do what we have already talked about and let me know what happens...however i might not read that untill tommorow now becaurse its 3.00am in the UK now...and my bed is calling me and my girfriend hates me becourse i have not paied her enough attention tonight


Removing Nvidea Experience fixed it right up. Seems to be working great now at speed. For some reason Rising Storm still stuck at 60fps but it seems to be game specific.

I'll working on getting it up to 120hz now. Who knows maybe Nvidea experience caused the pausing I was getting at 120.

We might should see if we could add "removing Nvidea Experience" to the directions on page 1, if we have a way to so other people don't have this same issue in the future.

I appreciate all your help and take care of the girlfriend. LOL


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Removing Nvidea Experience fixed it right up. Seems to be working great now at speed. For some reason Rising Storm still stuck at 60fps but it seems to be game specific.
> 
> I'll working on getting it up to 120hz now. Who knows maybe Nvidea experience caused the pausing I was getting at 120.
> 
> We might should see if we could add "removing Nvidea Experience" to the directions on page 1, if we have a way to so other people don't have this same issue in the future.
> 
> I appreciate all your help and take care of the girlfriend. LOL


If you want to hit 120hz stable put the same totals that are in this picture into your 120hz CRU profile....i bet anything you hit 120hz easily then









Goodnight.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> 14.1 mantle driver doesnt work with the patcher.
> Can some body let toastyX know.


Dont worry.
Thought 1.2.2 was still the newest and found 1.2.3 which worked.


----------



## leftbehind126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Dont worry.
> Thought 1.2.2 was still the newest and found 1.2.3 which worked.


Awesome! Went and found the 1.2.3 update and gave it a shot. Worked perfectly. Thank you!


----------



## digitalforce

As neat as the NVIDIA Experience CAN be, it does nothing but mess up my game settings. IMHO, it's a mess at the moment.

Also, on hitting 120hz on anything, I have found several games that are locked/capped on FPS no matter what you try, regardless of your refresh settings:

** Just cause 2 (100 FPS max)
* Trine 2 (100 FPS max)
* Assassin's Creed IV (62 FPS max -- ***?!)
* Rayman Legends (60 FPS max)*

Please let me know if you know any tweaks to get past these or want to add to the list. Might be good to add to the OP so some people don't waste their time wondering why they can't hit 120 fps in these games


----------



## outsider7p

Anyone have any idea if the sellers are shipping out monitors due to the new year?

Thinking of buying from AccessoriesWhole, Thanks


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> Anyone have any idea if the sellers are shipping out monitors due to the new year?
> 
> Thinking of buying from AccessoriesWhole, Thanks


Accessorieswhole isn't affected by it mine just got marked as shipped a few hours ago and he also did costumer service for me, but dream-seller for example is not available during the lunar festival.


----------



## OutlawII

Ordered mine last night from Acessorieswhole no word of shipment yet


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Ordered mine last night from Acessorieswhole no word of shipment yet


Yeah I also waited like 1 day until he marked it as shipped.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Accessorieswhole marked mine as shipped like 3 days ago. Have tracking but I confirmed with him that only a label was printed as they don't ship on weekends so it will be out Monday.







Lol


----------



## OutlawII

Any idea if they use ups or fedex?


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Any idea if they use ups or fedex?


Green-sum is shipping me my monitor using EMS/USPS, to California.


----------



## HugoStiglitz

So much reading before I click the buy button on one of these. There's alot to choose from


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Any idea if they use ups or fedex?


Ups for my shipment


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Any idea if they use ups or fedex?


I'm pretty sure that it depends on where you live.


----------



## aiya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> you will not hit 120hz in a lot of games on higher settings at 1440p
> 
> the 660ti just doesnt cut it
> 
> IMO only worth it if you got another 660ti but that still wouldnt be enough for all games lol..


I can vouch for this, the 660ti doesn't cut it @ 1440p. Stutters even @ 2xMSAA

I have one laying around and tested it out for fun just to see if performance was the same compared to my HD7950, it wasn't.


----------



## OutlawII

What about the GTX680 2gb how will that do


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> What about the GTX680 2gb how will that do


I had one 770 at one point and that's a little faster than the 680 and I get about 70fps average with bf4 on maximum setting without any msaa. So you'd get about 60ish fps average.


----------



## Ovrclck

I'm curious, does anyone have an idea of what the actual cost is for these monitors sold in Korea?

Sent from Note 3


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I'm curious, does anyone have an idea of what the actual cost is for these monitors sold in Korea?
> 
> Sent from Note 3


The cost of the actual monitor is about 250 I think. But there are like the worst of the batch so to speak so probably much less than an a+ one.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Btw. something that I always wanted to know are these LCD cleaning prdocuts legit or even worth trying?


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aiya*
> 
> I can vouch for this, the 660ti doesn't cut it @ 1440p. Stutters even @ 2xMSAA
> 
> I have one laying around and tested it out for fun just to see if performance was the same compared to my HD7950, it wasn't.


Well I'm mainly looking at getting this monitor for league of legends as I've said and also I don't care it I can't run all games on ultra. I run bf4 just fine on medium settings. I also have an astigmatism so really will enjoy having less eye strain


----------



## Sannakji

I can confirm that the 660ti does actually cut it at 1440p. Who on earth has AA turned on on a 1440p monitor...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> The cost of the actual monitor is about 250 I think. But there are like the worst of the batch so to speak so probably much less than an a+ one.


I got a Shimian for 160 in Yongsan Electronics Market in Seoul. There were tons of them too.


----------



## outsider7p

So I'm about to place an order at accessories whole....

Is pixel perfect worth it? it's £40 more for me and if I get the non pixel perfect one I have the option of a squaretrade warranty instead for the same price.

Hoping for some quick opinions! thanks


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> So I'm about to place an order at accessories whole....
> 
> Is pixel perfect worth it? it's £40 more for me and if I get the non pixel perfect one I have the option of a squaretrade warranty instead for the same price.
> 
> Hoping for some quick opinions! thanks


No pixel perfect and Squaretrade !


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> I can confirm that the 660ti does actually cut it at 1440p. Who on earth has AA turned on on a 1440p monitor...
> I got a Shimian for 160 in Yongsan Electronics Market in Seoul. There were tons of them too.


thank you.. I know it will be sufficient for what I need because I'm already using it on a 1440p monitor. I just want the 120hz for the eye strain when I play long sessions of lol


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> No pixel perfect and Squaretrade !


Btw. do you have any updates on your tracking link? I think they started working in korea like 4 hours ago


----------



## Osteoman

Okay I was doing fine with my new Qnix at 96hz but was getting stuttering with anything higher.

I figured out the issue and just wanted to save anyone else the same trouble I had in figuring it out.

I figured it out by rereading ToastyX's explanation attached to the patcher.

I remembered when I ran the patch that it didn't pick up two of the limits and his explanation if it didn't pick up all the limits was that the patch needed to be updated.

So long story short do not patch the newest Nvidea beta drivers. I uninstalled the patch and then uninstalled the beta drivers. I then installed the most recent non-beta drivers, patched and it found all the limits. Running 120hz stable with Lawson's ini for 120hz and it looks awesome.

Thanks to Lawson for all the help.

Also, I bought the Ultimate PP one from Excellentcastle and it is pixel perfect and only barely noticeable blb in lower left edge.

Love it!


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Btw. something that I always wanted to know are these LCD cleaning prdocuts legit or even worth trying?


. In my opinion just grab a bottle of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. It works better than anything. Even the watered down grocery stuff.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> I can confirm that the 660ti does actually cut it at 1440p. Who on earth has AA turned on on a 1440p monitor...
> I got a Shimian for 160 in Yongsan Electronics Market in Seoul. There were tons of them too.


Sorry but a 660ti does not cut it at 1440 on anything intensive. Even with AA turned off you won't be getting 60 in a lot of games at high/ultra. Who has AA turned on at that resolution you say... how about most because it still helps at 1440p. Even at 4k AA is still noticeable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> . In my opinion just grab a bottle of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. It works better than anything. Even the watered down grocery stuff.


No don't do that. Most panel manufacturer's specifically say to not use isopropyl alcohol to clean an LCD screen. You should use the stuff they sell specifically for LCD screens as they are safe and will not damage/streak with a microfiber cloth.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Btw. do you have any updates on your tracking link? I think they started working in korea like 4 hours ago


Yeah "shipping info received" in a couple more hours it should update and tell me my delivery date.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Yeah "shipping info received" in a couple more hours it should update and tell me my delivery date.


Yeah I just got the same message, btw. do I have to pay the taxes at the door or can I transfer it via bankaccount?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Yeah I just got the same message, btw. do I have to pay the taxes at the door or can I transfer it via bankaccount?


What taxes are you speaking of?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> What taxes are you speaking of?


customs duty and VAT


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> customs duty and VAT


There's none in the USA which is where I live


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> There's none in the USA which is where I live


I'm in germany so I have to pay 19% VAT additionally and maybe customs duty too.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> I'm in germany so I have to pay 19% VAT additionally and maybe customs duty too.


Then they bill you later not on delivery as far as I know.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Then they bill you later not on delivery as far as I know.


Yeah that's what I'm guessing UPS support is like the worst thing ever..I wrote them like a week ago and asked them about it and they didn't answer I dont wan't to call them for 1 USD/minute...
I just researched a little bit it seems like I only have to pay VAT so that would be overall 390 USD


----------



## wompwomp

I'm going to be ordering a x-star soon and have a few questions for you guys:

1) I want to order one with an HDMI just so I can hook up my xbox to it. Just wondering if there is an option in the menu to switch between sources. I know it's a stupid question because it should, but just wanna confirm.

2) Is there really a difference between a "perfect pixel" version and the standard version? It's a $60 dollar difference.

3) All HDMI variations come with built in speakers, correct?


----------



## tracerit

thinking about buying this X-Star DP2710 from dream-seller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa

It seems that it doesn't include a US power adapter. What's a good type to get?


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Sorry but a 660ti does not cut it at 1440 on anything intensive. Even with AA turned off you won't be getting 60 in a lot of games at high/ultra. Who has AA turned on at that resolution you say... how about most because it still helps at 1440p. Even at 4k AA is still noticeable.


You must not be actually reading my posts lol.. I am not really running any graphic intensive games and I'm fine with just running medium settings for bf4 as I don't play too much of it. I've just never experienced 120hz and looking at my crossover for hours does strain my eyes alot since I have an astigmatism on top of that. I already run LOL (my most played game) at a consistant 200FPS so I'm not concerned that I can't hit 120hz in it because I know i will be able to.

If anything I can always pick up another 660 to run in SLI. (btw sorry it's not a 660ti.. its an MSI 660 twin frozr 3 so it does overclock like a beast)

My main question really is would the 120hz be worth the switch, even if it is only for less eye strain and faster mouse movements. I'm not dishing out any extra cash to make the switch


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> You must not be actually reading my posts lol.. I am not really running any graphic intensive games and I'm fine with just running medium settings for bf4 as I don't play too much of it. I've just never experienced 120hz and looking at my crossover for hours does strain my eyes alot since I have an astigmatism on top of that. I already run LOL (my most played game) at a consistant 200FPS so I'm not concerned that I can't hit 120hz in it because I know i will be able to.
> 
> If anything I can always pick up another 660 to run in SLI. (btw sorry it's not a 660ti.. its an MSI 660 twin frozr 3 so it does overclock like a beast)
> 
> My main question really is would the 120hz be worth the switch, even if it is only for less eye strain and faster mouse movements. I'm not dishing out any extra cash to make the switch


I have a pb278q as well as the Qnix and the Qnix at 96hz hands down is way better to game on than the pb278q at 60hz









the pb278q also strains my eyes after couple of hours but no the qnix...and the mouse movement is very noticeably smoother!

im also using an i7 4770 with gtx 780 ti overclocked to 1200mhz so it holds down 96hz very well in most games I dnt play battlefield much anymore but it was crushing bf4 the other day at ultra with no AA


----------



## Dyekid217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> I have a pb278q as well as the Qnix and the Qnix at 96hz hands down is way better to game on than the pb278q at 60hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the pb278q also strains my eyes after couple of hours but no the qnix...and the mouse movement is very noticeably smoother!
> 
> im also using an i7 4770 with gtx 780 ti overclocked to 1200mhz so it holds down 96hz very well in most games I dnt play battlefield much anymore but it was crushing bf4 the other day at ultra with no AA


thanks again.. just reaffirmation is all I really needed. I could care less about running high/ultra settings if the substitute is smoother gameplay. And like I said I could always add a 660 to SLI


----------



## Xentar712

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> thanks again.. just reaffirmation is all I really needed. I could care less about running high/ultra settings if the substitute is smoother gameplay. And like I said I could always add a 660 to SLI


I had a 660(non Ti) when I got my QNIX about 6 months back. It was sufficient enough, but not stellar. With AA off, I peaked 96fps on most 1 y.o. games but did have the occasional slowdown. Basically I would set everything to Ultra and fine tune certain things down to get max performance. Usually lowering shadow detail or something like that did the trick. Now I have a 770 though and have no probs whatsoever, even with AA on. I usually turn it off though since I can't tell the difference at that resolution. Since you have a 660 Ti, I think you'll be very happy. I'd stick to 96 Hz over 120, for stability sake. I question whether or not most could tell the difference between 96 and 120 anyways.


----------



## chestnuts

Hi all,
I've just unpacked my Qnix QX2710. The quality is amazing.

However.. I went for Perfect Pixel version from accessorieswhole which is £240 (£40 more than standard) + £33.5 custom charges + £11.5 UPS handling fee = £285. Their policy states no defective pixels whatsoever which is pretty good and that's why I was prepared to pay a little bit more.

Then the horror:


A defective pixel almost in the middle..


on a green background:


The BLB generally ok, quite significant at the top of the screen, looks like it's squeezed too much in that region, I'd probably try to fix it:


I think I'll probably try returning it as it should be covered under their policy. The question is, has anyone gone through the process of returning the screen? Will I have to pay the custom charges again etc?

Thanks


----------



## OutlawII

This is why in previous posts it was said not worth the extra money for pixel perfect!


----------



## chestnuts

From what I've gathered, it's not worth the extra money if you're willing to gamble and you're prepared for that you might get some defective pixels. The pixel perfect version should be for people who don't want to risk it and should guarantee the peace of mind.

That's the theory, in practice I just got defective screen ;p


----------



## madhatter01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chestnuts*
> 
> Hi all,
> I've just unpacked my Qnix QX2710. The quality is amazing.
> 
> However.. I went for Perfect Pixel version from accessorieswhole which is £240 (£40 more than standard) + £33.5 custom charges + £11.5 UPS handling fee = £285. Their policy states no defective pixels whatsoever which is pretty good and that's why I was prepared to pay a little bit more.
> 
> Then the horror:
> 
> 
> A defective pixel almost in the middle..
> 
> 
> on a green background:
> 
> 
> The BLB generally ok, quite significant at the top of the screen, looks like it's squeezed too much in that region, I'd probably try to fix it:
> 
> 
> I think I'll probably try returning it as it should be covered under their policy. The question is, has anyone gone through the process of returning the screen? Will I have to pay the custom charges again etc?
> 
> Thanks


Just make sure you let them know that you paid extra for it to be perfect. If the refuse to pay full shipping to return it just contact paypal. Make sure you show paypal that they sell one without pixel perfect and one with it. Then you can say you paid extra for this product. Tell them that the buyer refused to pay return even though he promised it with pixel perfect. Also make sure you get screen shots of the website just in case they change it. Then enjoy a full refund and free monitor.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chestnuts*
> 
> Hi all,
> I've just unpacked my Qnix QX2710. The quality is amazing.
> 
> However.. I went for Perfect Pixel version from accessorieswhole which is £240 (£40 more than standard) + £33.5 custom charges + £11.5 UPS handling fee = £285. Their policy states no defective pixels whatsoever which is pretty good and that's why I was prepared to pay a little bit more.
> 
> Then the horror:
> 
> 
> A defective pixel almost in the middle..
> 
> 
> on a green background:
> 
> 
> The BLB generally ok, quite significant at the top of the screen, looks like it's squeezed too much in that region, I'd probably try to fix it:
> 
> 
> I think I'll probably try returning it as it should be covered under their policy. The question is, has anyone gone through the process of returning the screen? Will I have to pay the custom charges again etc?
> 
> Thanks


Hi mate there is know horror its just inconvenience...if you ordered a pixel perfect like i did and he said that in the description like he did on mine "NOT ONE DEAD PIXEL" then you will be fine you will not of lost any money what so ever and you will have ebay on your side...also i don't believe for one minute that accessorieswhole will give you any trouble exchanging it...
As for the back light bleeding except it is the main reason that it is an A- screen....however if you go back a few pages you will see my detailed guide on how to fix that.....it is exactly the same backlight bleed i had at the top of my monitor....in fact mine was worse....it because the top of the frame the screen is sat in is bent....its not a hard fix....get another pixel perfect one and fix that...i will help you fix that all i can...and then you will have a A+ grade screen and you will be happy...however first try some of the you tube site that can move and unstick stuck pixels...you might find its just a stuck pixel that you can fix!....dont worry every thing will be ok









Edit: looking at that blacklight bleed it is very very similar to what i had...if you took that screen out of the case in the frame and laied it face down on a flat work surface you will see running along the top of the frame that the middle of the frame is raised about 3/4 of an inch high from the flat table...there will be a long curved bend peeking in the middle to about 3/4 of an inch and then dropping back off to each corner...that is why in the middle of the picture there is no BLB cos the screen is tight there because that is where the frame is pinching tight on the screen...once straight it will be fixed and TOTALLY GONE!...


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Edit: looking at that blacklight bleed it is very very similar to what i had...if you took that screen out of the case in the frame and laied it face down on a flat work surface you will see running along the top of the frame that the middle of the frame is raised about 3/4 of an inch high from the flat table...there will be a long curved bend peeking in the middle to about 3/4 of an inch and then dropping back off to each corner...that is why in the middle of the picture there is no BLB cos the screen is tight there because that is where the frame is pinching tight on the screen...once straight it will be fixed and TOTALLY GONE!...


Is it easy to bend it in the right form with a little force?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Is it easy to bend it in the right form with a little force?


No it takes some force cos the frame is L shaped so the shape of the frame gives it more strength....a bit like panels from a car...the shape gives the metal panels more strength...i workout 3 times a week however a fit gown man can easily bent it straight again...and even over bend it if he applied to much force to it....after your first push pull twist.... and you have laied it back on the table to see how far you have straightened it ....you will of gauged how much force you need to apply....just take your time and keep placing it back on the table to see if you have finished straightening it yet or which way you need to bend push pull next...it took me about 3 times of push pull and i had it dead straight.


----------



## chestnuts

Thanks very much for your advices. I saw the fixes for back light bleeding, looks doable. I'll start with youtube videos for unfreezing stuck pixels, see how that goes.


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Hello boys, i buying qnix 2710...question: my Gigagyte gtx 680 4GB ia ready for 120 hz?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chestnuts*
> 
> Thanks very much for your advices. I saw the fixes for back light bleeding, looks doable. I'll start with youtube videos for unfreezing stuck pixels, see how that goes.


Good idea you might find that alone will sort your pixels...they have fixed many stuck pixels in the passed....they really do work...go give it a shot then all we gotta do is fix the BLB simples


----------



## hammelgammler

Just fixed my BLB significantly.

Here are some pictures:

before:


after:


The after-picture is at max brightness, don't know if it was also before at max.
Very happy with this results.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Just fixed my BLB significantly.
> 
> Here are some pictures:
> 
> before:
> 
> 
> after:
> 
> 
> The after-picture is at max brightness, don't know if it was also before at max.
> Very happy with this results.


Yes much better what method did you use?


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes much better what method did you use?


I used a mix of tape-mod, bezel twisting and paper.
I tested at which points i have to put pressure to fix the BLB, so i had to put some thick folded paper between the back of the monitor and the panel, and also some not that thick paper between the front plastic bezel and the panel itself.
I also tried to twist the metal frame of the panel and the panel itself straight, but the big difference was the "paper" trick.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I used a mix of tape-mod, bezel twisting and paper.
> I tested at which points i have to put pressure to fix the BLB, so i had to put some thick folded paper between the back of the monitor and the panel, and also some not that thick paper between the front plastic bezel and the panel itself.
> I also tried to twist the metal frame of the panel and the panel itself straight, but the big difference was the "paper" trick.


Nice good job...if you had took the panel out of the frame you could of got it perfect though...i did just the same as you have just done when i first got mine...yet i found that i kept opening it up every single day trying to make it better...i would strip it down every single night and turn the lights off trying more tape balls paper and cardboard to push pull the frame in the case trying to get it better....i also found on mine all this did was pushing the light from one area of the screen to another part. even though i did improve it alot like you have done and that would make most people happy however for me its different,

I soon realized that if i did not do a full strip down and straighten the frame that i would be opening my case every single night for the rest of my life trying improve it further lol...i think i must have some OCD !...anyhow its just me i need everything perfect or it wont stop bugging me is always on my mind and i wont stop looking for it....the straightening of the frame does fix it 100% though


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> Hello boys, i buying qnix 2710...question: my Gigagyte gtx 680 4GB ia ready for 120 hz?


You will be able to do 120 on anything that isn't intensive and you may be able to get 120 on some of the intensive stuff with AA turned off at medium/high settings. The 680 doesn't get 60 FPS at 1080 ultra in some of the really intensive games and that only gets worse at 1440.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Nice good job...if you had took the panel out of the frame you could of got it perfect though...i did just the same as you have just done when i first got mine...yet i found that i kept opening it up every single day trying to make it better...i would strip it down every single night and turn the lights off trying more tape balls paper and cardboard to push pull the frame in the case trying to get it better....i also found on mine all this did was pushing the light from one area of the screen to another part. even though i did improve it alot like you have done and that would make most people happy however for me its different,
> 
> I soon realized that if i did not do a full strip down and straighten the frame that i would be opening my case every single night for the rest of my life trying improve it further lol...i think i must have some OCD !...anyhow its just me i need everything perfect or it wont stop bugging me is always on my mind and i wont stop looking for it....the straightening of the frame does fix it 100% though


I'm also that kind of person that wants everything perfect, but i straighted the frame as good as i could do.
How did you straightened your frame?

Other question: Do you guys think its worth to buy a colorimeter for 180€, if i calibrate three of these monitors and a 1080p beamer?
The "X-Rite i1 Display Pro" looks nice, but i dont know if its worth it.
That the colors are not "exactly" the same on every monitor bothers me some kind.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> I'm also that kind of person that wants everything perfect, but i straighted the frame as good as i could do.
> How did you straightened your frame?
> 
> Other question: Do you guys think its worth to buy a colorimeter for 180€, if i calibrate three of these monitors and a 1080p beamer?
> The "X-Rite i1 Display Pro" looks nice, but i dont know if its worth it.
> That the colors are not "exactly" the same on every monitor bothers me some kind


Your name sounds german, If so may I ask you how your Monitor got send to you like UPS or Fedex and did they charge you the VAT and zoll cost at the door?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Your name sounds german, If so may I ask you how your Monitor got send to you like UPS or Fedex and did they charge you the VAT and zoll cost at the door?


He's from the UK, also


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Your name sounds german, If so may I ask you how your Monitor got send to you like UPS or Fedex and did they charge you the VAT and zoll cost at the door?


Yeah im german. My two monitors were send with FedEx and i had to pay 19% VAT but as far i can remember no zoll cost.
The third monitor is the one of my girlfriend. She bought it from green-sum, and after asking them they should mark it as a gift and send it with DHL, she doesn't need to pay any other costs at the door at all.
The monitor was also declared with a lower value than it actually was. (220$ instead of 359$)


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I'm also that kind of person that wants everything perfect, but i straighted the frame as good as i could do.
> How did you straightened your frame?
> 
> Other question: Do you guys think its worth to buy a colorimeter for 180€, if i calibrate three of these monitors and a 1080p beamer?
> The "X-Rite i1 Display Pro" looks nice, but i dont know if its worth it.
> That the colors are not "exactly" the same on every monitor bothers me some kind.


I did mine by striping the screen out of the frame and using a flat work surface as a straight reference...."my dining room table" ...using just brute force with my hands..the whole job only took me 30-40 mins to strip down repair and reassemble and i had very bad BLB...the picture below is how it turned out,

As for should you get a calibrator if you only had one screen i would say no don't bother cos people like myself who already own a colour calibrator can give you a bloody good 120hz or 96hz and even a 60hz ICC profile...not that at 60hz you really need one cos the out of the box colours are fantastic on this panel...however you totally need a ICC profile at 96hz - 120hz to correct the higher gamma shift ruining at these higher refresh rates....but if you have multiple screens side by side i would get one for sure...however i think if most people just had one Qnix they would not bother...for me i am a gadget man and love owning gadgets so i got my one anyhow


----------



## hammelgammler

Damn, your monitor looks beatiful.
Very nice result you got there.

So yeah, i think i will buy that colorimeter in a few days.
One monitor runs at 96Hz and the other one at 84Hz, limited due to the dual link to mini dp adapter.
So the colors match not exactly, even with a good pre calibrated profile. I also think that not every monitor has the exact same colors, so that a colorimeter would be a nice investement.
Thanks for your support lawson! I think i will open up the second monitor again at the weekend and try the "brute force"-method.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I did mine by striping the screen out of the frame and using a flat work surface as a straight reference...."my dining room table" ...using just brute force with my hands..the whole job only took me 30-40 mins to strip down repair and reassemble and i had very bad BLB...the picture below is how it turned out
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Genius!









Loving your work and dedication to this thread.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Genius!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loving your work and dedication to this thread.


Thank you very much


----------



## Dyekid217

well after much debate and personal thinking.. I just picked up another 660 for SLI !!

Now all I have to do is get my hands on one of these 120hz babys.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> well after much debate and personal thinking.. I just picked up another 660 for SLI !!
> 
> Now all I have to do is get my hands on one of these 120hz babys.


Good for you i run 2x gtx 660 in SLI and can hit 120fps in tomb raider in ultra at 1440 and world of tanks and a fair few other games...good choice with your other gtx660 card and will make you really appreciate your monitor...good for you


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> well after much debate and personal thinking.. I just picked up another 660 for SLI !!
> 
> Now all I have to do is get my hands on one of these 120hz babys.


knew you'd cave haha


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Yeah im german. My two monitors were send with FedEx and i had to pay 19% VAT but as far i can remember no zoll cost.
> The third monitor is the one of my girlfriend. She bought it from green-sum, and after asking them they should mark it as a gift and send it with DHL, she doesn't need to pay any other costs at the door at all.
> The monitor was also declared with a lower value than it actually was. (220$ instead of 359$)


Yeah dd you had to pick it up from zoll or did you receive it at the door and when did you receive your VAT bill?
Sorry for bombing you with questions I'm just excited.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Yeah dd you had to pick it up from zoll or did you receive it at the door and when did you receive your VAT bill?
> Sorry for bombing you with questions I'm just excited.


I received it at the door and i think a few weeks later a bill for the VAT from FedEx.
No problem.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I received it at the door and i think a few weeks later a bill for the VAT from FedEx.
> No problem.


Thank You! Yeah I hope I get the same experience I get it via UPS though and as far as I know UPS is terrible.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Thank You! Yeah I hope I get the same experience I get it via UPS though and as far as I know UPS is terrible.


Good luck with your monitor.
Hopefully you're getting one without major BLB or dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Good luck with your monitor.
> Hopefully you're getting one without major BLB or dead/stuck pixels.


Thanks mate.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Getting my monitor tomorrow I'll let you guys know how it is when it arrives (if it does since it snowing like crazy here)


----------



## Fiduciary

Arg, my X-Star is held up in customs and the waiting is killing me. I ordered last Tuesday, it feels like it's been forever, especially seeing people that ordered later getting theirs earlier.


----------



## Osteoman

Thanks to Lawson for all your help!! I'm running at 120hz now and appears to be stable.

See my explanation of the problem on page 1306 of this thread.

I am also using your 120hz ini and it looks great. Just like it did out of the box at 60hz as far as color.

May try your blb fix at some point too but mine is so minimal, I'm not sure I want to have any risk of breaking it just to fix it.


----------



## Sannakji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Who has AA turned on at that resolution you say... how about most because it still helps at 1440p. Even at 4k AA is still noticeable.


It's sad to see people who have no idea what they're talking about giving out 'advice'.

There was not even the tiniest jaggie to be seen when I was gaming. Everyone who knows what they've got in this screen knows to turn off AA.

I played all the usual suspects, including heavily modded maxed out Skyrim (sans AA), on a 1440p and 660ti and was getting great frame rates. Sorry but you've no clue what you're on about.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Getting my monitor tomorrow I'll let you guys know how it is when it arrives (if it does since it snowing like crazy here)


Damn mine is in bangkok right now. I think they almost send it at the same time as yours. Where is yours right now? And you are in UK right?


----------



## Vesanius

Some people were requesting a 120hz ICC profile from me ages ago and I honestly forgot it. It's been two months since my first calibration though and I just re-calibrated my monitor and did a 96hz and 110hz profiles, since my monitor can't handle 120hz. I can't really see much of a difference between the profiles though so I suppose they will do the job with 120hz as well,. I also did this new profiles with a brighter backlight. My previous profiles were with brightness of 11 clicks from the minimum (120cd/cm2) and this new ones are done with 17 clicks (180cd/cm2) and the whites look so much better now even though they were already great before.

The files themselves are correctly named, but the ICC profile names, which you can see in the color management, are wrong in both profiles and I can't be arsed to fix that. Or rather I don't know how to change them without doing a re-calibration so they must do for now.

Qnix-96hz-180cdcm2.zip 2k .zip file


Qnix-110hz-180cdcm2.zip 2k .zip file


They are both set to 2.2 gamma, 6500k white point and 180cd/cm2 (17 clicks from the minimum). The 96hz profile wrongly says that that it's done with 120cd/cm2, while it's done with 180cd/cm2 and the 110hz profile wrongly says that it's a 120hz profile, while it's in fact 110hz. And please let me know how they work for you. Quite a few have like them the most so I'd suggest any one of you without your own calibration device to give them a go!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Getting my monitor tomorrow I'll let you guys know how it is when it arrives (if it does since it snowing like crazy here)


Hope it turns up for you tomorrow despite the snow








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Thanks to Lawson for all your help!! I'm running at 120hz now and appears to be stable.
> 
> See my explanation of the problem on page 1306 of this thread.
> 
> I am also using your 120hz ini and it looks great. Just like it did out of the box at 60hz as far as color.
> 
> May try your blb fix at some point too but mine is so minimal, I'm not sure I want to have any risk of breaking it just to fix it.


Glad to of been help and enjoy your lovely new 120hz monitor....and yes of course if you have minimal BLB and you are happy with it then leave it be


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Some people were requesting a 120hz ICC profile from me ages ago and I honestly forgot it. It's been two months since my first calibration though and I just re-calibrated my monitor and did a 96hz and 110hz profiles, since my monitor can't handle 120hz. I can't really see much of a difference between the profiles though so I suppose they will do the job with 120hz as well,. I also did this new profiles with a brighter backlight. My previous profiles were with brightness of 11 clicks from the minimum (120cd/cm2) and this new ones are done with 17 clicks (180cd/cm2) and the whites look so much better now even though they were already great before.
> 
> The files themselves are correctly named, but the ICC profile names, which you can see in the color management, are wrong in both profiles and I can't be arsed to fix that. Or rather I don't know how to change them without doing a re-calibration so they must do for now.
> 
> Qnix-96hz-180cdcm2.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> Qnix-110hz-180cdcm2.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> They are both set to 2.2 gamma, 6500k white point and 180cd/cm2 (17 clicks from the minimum). The 96hz profile wrongly says that that it's done with 120cd/cm2, while it's done with 180cd/cm2 and the 110hz profile wrongly says that it's a 120hz profile, while it's in fact 110hz. And please let me know how they work for you. Quite a few have like them the most so I'd suggest any one of you without your own calibration device to give them a go!


Could you calibrate a 96 hz with custom timings? Specifically, 2652x1445

This seems to be the best profile I have tried, regardless.


----------



## T00Sp00kyFoU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> It's sad to see people who have no idea what they're talking about giving out 'advice'.
> 
> There was not even the tiniest jaggie to be seen when I was gaming. Everyone who knows what they've got in this screen knows to turn off AA.
> 
> I played all the usual suspects, including heavily modded maxed out Skyrim (sans AA), on a 1440p and 660ti and was getting great frame rates. Sorry but you've no clue what you're on about.


----------



## ronnie_gogs

About to order the panel can someone help me tell the difference between these panels

Prices are in Singapore dollar

QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE [Matte Panel] This is around 265 USD
QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Tempered Glass] 281 USD
QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte Panel 281 USD

Wanted to get the Xstar but it seems its out of stock. So have to change to a QNIX

Link : http://list.qoo10.sg/item/QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-LL-MATTE/410946606?

Seller is accessorieswhole


----------



## T00Sp00kyFoU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> It's sad to see people who have no idea what they're talking about giving out 'advice'.
> 
> There was not even the tiniest jaggie to be seen when I was gaming. Everyone who knows what they've got in this screen knows to turn off AA.
> 
> I played all the usual suspects, including heavily modded maxed out Skyrim (sans AA), on a 1440p and 660ti and was getting great frame rates. Sorry but you've no clue what you're on about.


My face is about a meter away from the screen and jaggies are still noticeable. 2x anti-aliasing is needed but anything exceeding that does nothing besides hurt performance for me. If its absolutely necessary I could probably live with turning it off but 2x doesn't do too much though I did not do any before and after for performance. with it off vs on. Only games I've played so far are Battlefield 4, and Planetside 2 but Planetside 2 has no AA settings. They use Edge AA or FXAA anyways which doesn't hurt performance so not a big deal.


----------



## T00Sp00kyFoU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I did mine by striping the screen out of the frame and using a flat work surface as a straight reference...."my dining room table" ...using just brute force with my hands..the whole job only took me 30-40 mins to strip down repair and reassemble and i had very bad BLB...the picture below is how it turned out,
> 
> As for should you get a calibrator if you only had one screen i would say no don't bother cos people like myself who already own a colour calibrator can give you a bloody good 120hz or 96hz and even a 60hz ICC profile...not that at 60hz you really need one cos the out of the box colours are fantastic on this panel...however you totally need a ICC profile at 96hz - 120hz to correct the higher gamma shift ruining at these higher refresh rates....but if you have multiple screens side by side i would get one for sure...however i think if most people just had one Qnix they would not bother...for me i am a gadget man and love owning gadgets so i got my one anyhow


Looks like you did a great job at getting rid of black light bleed. Does my back light bleed look bad? Really seems like it, but don't know if its my camera (HTC One camera) is making it appear worse than it is. 


Also, I was one of the lucky ones who could get 120hz overclock without any hassle at all, but this gamma shift is really bothersome and makes me go back to 60hz each time and no ICC seems to do quite the job. Best I've used is the ASUS one for 60hz. but isn't nice at 120hz. I usually have my display on full brightness most of the day as it is more appealing for gaming and graphic design. Everyone makes their ICC profiles for like half brightness or lower though, and I feel that maybe one tailored more for high brightness would really benefit me. Toggling one of the other ICCs at night won't bother me as at that point, as im not doing any color sensitive work. Would you mind making a color profile for highest brightness for me? Getting a calibrator just to calibrate a single monitor is quite a bit overkill... Anyways, I don't exactly have the money for one. Only a teenager here.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnie_gogs*
> 
> About to order the panel can someone help me tell the difference between these panels
> 
> Prices are in Singapore dollar
> 
> QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE [Matte Panel] This is around 265 USD
> QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Tempered Glass] 281 USD
> QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte Panel 281 USD
> 
> Wanted to get the Xstar but it seems its out of stock. So have to change to a QNIX
> 
> Link : http://list.qoo10.sg/item/QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-LL-MATTE/410946606?
> 
> Seller is accessorieswhole


First one has different defect pixel policy from standart 0-3 increased to 0-5.
Second one is glossy so If you have many light sources in your room you'd be better off with matte.
Third 0-3 pixel policy and matte probably the most bought one.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T00Sp00kyFoU*
> 
> Looks like you did a great job at getting rid of black light bleed. Does my back light bleed look bad? Really seems like it, but don't know if its my camera (HTC One camera) is making it appear worse than it is.
> 
> 
> Also, I was one of the lucky ones who could get 120hz overclock without any hassle at all, but this gamma shift is really bothersome and makes me go back to 60hz each time and no ICC seems to do quite the job. Best I've used is the ASUS one for 60hz. but isn't nice at 120hz. I usually have my display on full brightness most of the day as it is more appealing for gaming and graphic design. Everyone makes their ICC profiles for like half brightness or lower though, and I feel that maybe one tailored more for high brightness would really benefit me. Toggling one of the other ICCs at night won't bother me as at that point, as im not doing any color sensitive work. Would you mind making a color profile for highest brightness for me? Getting a calibrator just to calibrate a single monitor is quite a bit overkill... Anyways, I don't exactly have the money for one. Only a teenager here.


I am sorry to say that yes that BLB looks bad.. also it appears you have taken the picture with your flash off which is good...however that only goes to show even more so just how bad your BLB is!...i would suggest you read back from about 15 pages and find and follow my BLB guide it can be totally fixed with taking your time and following my instructions..

Also for when you say.... "and no ICC seems to do quite the job"...i would suggest this could be due to the amount of BLB you currently have...however for now try my 120hz ICC which is made for a bright screen which set at 200 cd/m about 18 clicks up from a black screen...if that also looks bad i do not believe you will get much further untill you repair your BLB...your screen is going to really struggle trying to show correct colours with that much BLB i am sorry to say...

BTW i took my pictures with my iphone with flash off

Native120hz.zip 5k .zip file


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> First one has different defect pixel policy from standart 0-3 increased to 0-5.
> Second one is glossy so If you have many light sources in your room you'd be better off with matte.
> Third 0-3 pixel policy and matte probably the most bought one.


Thanks for the input.







Now confused as I wanted tempered glass. Let me decide and reply back to seller. My room is mostly dark so reflections would not matter.


----------



## T00Sp00kyFoU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnie_gogs*
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now confused as I wanted tempered glass. Let me decide and reply back to seller. My room is mostly dark so reflections would not matter.


I myself have a matte one and even having my text book on my desk or just typing on my keyboard with the light on beside my monitor shows them clearly visible so can't imagine how bad that would be on a tempered glass screen. Really does have to be completely dark in a room for me not to see some sort of reflection on the screen from something on my desk. The matte coating is very thin so it doesn't do much in terms of dulling the monitor and making it overall look less appealing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I am sorry to say that yes that BLB looks bad.. also it appears you have taken the picture with your flash off which is good...however that only goes to show even more so just how bad your BLB is!...i would suggest you read back from about 15 pages and find and follow my BLB guide it can be totally fixed with taking your time and following my instructions..
> 
> Also for when you say.... "and no ICC seems to do quite the job"...i would suggest this could be due to the amount of BLB you currently have...however for now try my 120hz ICC which is made for a bright screen which set at 200 cd/m about 18 clicks up from a black screen...if that also looks bad i do not believe you will get much further untill you repair your BLB...your screen is going to really struggle trying to show correct colours with that much BLB i am sorry to say...
> 
> BTW i took my pictures with my iphone with flash off
> 
> Native120hz.zip 5k .zip file


I'll definitely go ahead and follow your guide. Saw it a few days ago which interested me. Definitely will make an attempt. Very afraid I might hurt something though. I remember getting my monitor the first night, snapping off the plastic getting ready to do a tape mod but chickened out. Also have one stuck red pixel in upper middle of my screen and appears on dark backgrounds which bothers me, and those videos on fixing stuck pixels sadly didn't work. Even though I bought a pixel perfect version I figured since I broke the little seals on the back of the plastic when you open it probably voided any chance I had at getting a new one. Not too bad but still annoying seeing the pixel. Also, I'll try your ICC and see how it looks. Might try that fix tomorrow though if I have time alone. Parents wouldn't dare let me open my monitor.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T00Sp00kyFoU*
> 
> I myself have a matte one and even having my text book on my desk or just typing on my keyboard with the light on beside my monitor shows them clearly visible so can't imagine how bad that would be on a tempered glass screen. Really does have to be completely dark in a room for me not to see some sort of reflection on the screen from something on my desk. The matte coating is very thin so it doesn't do much in terms of dulling the monitor and making it overall look less appealing.
> I'll definitely go ahead and follow your guide. Saw it a few days ago which interested me. Definitely will make an attempt. Very afraid I might hurt something though. I remember getting my monitor the first night, snapping off the plastic getting ready to do a tape mod but chickened out. Also have one stuck red pixel in upper middle of my screen and appears on dark backgrounds which bothers me, and those videos on fixing stuck pixels sadly didn't work. Even though I bought a pixel perfect version I figured since I broke the little seals on the back of the plastic when you open it probably voided any chance I had at getting a new one. Not too bad but still annoying seeing the pixel. Also, I'll try your ICC and see how it looks. Might try that fix tomorrow though if I have time alone. Parents wouldn't dare let me open my monitor.


I can assure you that if you take you time and follow my instructions that you will do a grand job, and furthermore once you have completed it and reassembled it....when you turned it back on and can see that all that BLB has gone you will have that wonderful feeling of total self satisfaction when you look at what you have just achieved...its not a scary at all... its easy and very satisfying once complete...









I am sorry but i have just re-read this... "Parents wouldn't dare let me open my monitor....i do not know how old you are?...i just assumed you were an adult?...however if you are a minor i STRONGLY suggest you show your parents my advice and fix method and ask your father/mother for there help and guidance....PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO THIS WITHOUT THERE CONSENT OR KNOWLEDGE!...you are dealing with electrical equipment here that could be dangerous and i would NOT advise you to do this without your parents consent.


----------



## iluvkfc

I just received mine (Qnix QX2710 SE edition) and I'm pretty happy with it so far, definitely a step up from my old TN 1080p, the colors look better and everything looks a lot sharper! No dead pixels that I know of (checked thoroughly on different backgrounds) and slight BLB at the top and at the bottom right corner but definitely not a deal breaker. Cost me $330 CAD from accessorieswhole + around $45 in taxes if anyone is wondering about buying in Canada.

I have 2 questions:
1. Is it possible to reduce the backlight bleed at all without opening the monitor? I noticed that it was a bit better when I decreased the brightness, is it possible to compensate with a software brightness increase? Is there a color profile that will give proper brightness increase and allow me to turn down the monitor's brightness because the slider in Catalyst Control Center just makes everything much paler and disgusting.
2. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I can't seem to overclock it. I did the driver patch for AMD and set a profile in CRU with 96Hz, but I cannot apply it in Windows or CCC, it only gives me a choice of 59Hz or 60Hz. I'm running an older graphics card though, it's a Radeon HD 3650 (lol) while I'm waiting for my 780 Ti to arrive. Is overclocking unsupported on older cards?


----------



## T00Sp00kyFoU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I can assure you that if you take you time and follow my instructions that you will do a grand job, and furthermore once you have completed it and reassembled it....when you turned it back on and can see that all that BLB has gone you will have that wonderful feeling of total self satisfaction when you look at what you have just achieved...its not a scary at all... its easy and very satisfying once complete...


This ICC looks great. Best I've tried. Little bit nicer than the Asus one as well, as that one was just smallest bit warm. This feels just the taddiest but more neutral which I like. For the most part it compensated for the gamma change but im seeing banding in neutral colors. Might go back to 60hz if I'm doing graphic design related things but should be good for gaming and good for casual browsing and video watching. Though my 670 can't really run anything new at fps higher than 60. When I do SLI though I'll be loving 120fps gaming. Been trying to find a single card with 2 DVI-D ports but just isn't happening besides a few lower cards like 640s and 650s. Quite a downgrade if I got one of those. Eager to try and get rid of my back light bleed though. Hopefully it goes as well as you say.  Thank you for the help and the ICC.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *T00Sp00kyFoU*
> 
> This ICC looks great. Best I've tried. Little bit nicer than the Asus one as well, as that one was just smallest bit warm. This feels just the taddiest but more neutral which I like. For the most part it compensated for the gamma change but im seeing banding in neutral colors. Might go back to 60hz if I'm doing graphic design related things but should be good for gaming and good for casual browsing and video watching. Though my 670 can't really run anything new at fps higher than 60. When I do SLI though I'll be loving 120fps gaming. Been trying to find a single card with 2 DVI-D ports but just isn't happening besides a few lower cards like 640s and 650s. Quite a downgrade if I got one of those. Eager to try and get rid of my back light bleed though. Hopefully it goes as well as you say.  Thank you for the help and the ICC.


I am sorry but i have just re-read this... "Parents wouldn't dare let me open my monitor"....i do not know how old you are?...i just assumed you were an adult?...however if you are a minor i STRONGLY suggest you show your parents my advice and fix method and ask your father/mother for there help and guidance....PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO THIS WITHOUT THERE CONSENT OR KNOWLEDGE!...you are dealing with electrical equipment here that could be dangerous and i would NOT advise you to do this without your parents consent.


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Could you calibrate a 96 hz with custom timings? Specifically, 2652x1445
> 
> This seems to be the best profile I have tried, regardless.


I don't think I have interest to do it sorry. Mainly because if I do it for one, then everyone would be asking for custom profile and while I love to share my profile with anyone without their own device, I don't have the time and interest to do fine a tuning for each and every user, sorry. It's good to hear that the profile works well for you regardless though. I just wonder if the first post is updated anymore as I asked my profiles to be added there over two months ago and they are still not there.


----------



## T00Sp00kyFoU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I am sorry but i have just re-read this... "Parents wouldn't dare let me open my monitor"....i do not know how old you are?...i just assumed you were an adult?...however if you are a minor i STRONGLY suggest you show your parents my advice and fix method and ask your father/mother for there help and guidance....PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO THIS WITHOUT THERE CONSENT OR KNOWLEDGE!...you are dealing with electrical equipment here that could be dangerous and i would NOT advise you to do this without your parents consent.


Haha, 16 mate. They aren't exactly Technologically literate. Not even in the slightest. Would have no idea what i would try and be doing. I'm definitely careful with what I do. They trusted me to build my computer after constant nagging about the price to performance ratio being much better, but this wouldn't bold well with them. Wouldn't even let them come near me when building the thing because they don't understand the fragile nature and delicate care you need to take with computer parts. I'd find they'd do more harm than anything. Granted if I have any problems with straightening the metal I may try and get some help from them.


----------



## iluvkfc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> I just received mine (Qnix QX2710 SE edition) and I'm pretty happy with it so far, definitely a step up from my old TN 1080p, the colors look better and everything looks a lot sharper! No dead pixels that I know of (checked thoroughly on different backgrounds) and slight BLB at the top and at the bottom right corner but definitely not a deal breaker. Cost me $330 CAD from accessorieswhole + around $45 in taxes if anyone is wondering about buying in Canada.
> 
> I have 2 questions:
> 1. Is it possible to reduce the backlight bleed at all without opening the monitor? I noticed that it was a bit better when I decreased the brightness, is it possible to compensate with a software brightness increase? Is there a color profile that will give proper brightness increase and allow me to turn down the monitor's brightness because the slider in Catalyst Control Center just makes everything much paler and disgusting.
> 2. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I can't seem to overclock it. I did the driver patch for AMD and set a profile in CRU with 96Hz, but I cannot apply it in Windows or CCC, it only gives me a choice of 59Hz or 60Hz. I'm running an older graphics card though, it's a Radeon HD 3650 (lol) while I'm waiting for my 780 Ti to arrive. Is overclocking unsupported on older cards?


Anyone? I wanna add my contribution to the members list, but I still need to find the max OC!


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> Anyone? I wanna add my contribution to the members list, but I still need to find the max OC!


Untick "include extension block" in CRU if it's selected.


----------



## iluvkfc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Untick "include extension block" in CRU if it's selected.


I did that and it did not change anything. However what I also did was delete the default profile and have only the overclocked one, after a restart I couldn't get to desktop because the screen just displayed an alternating flash of red, green, blue, red/green/blue, black/white gradient, different type of black/white gradient in a cycle. Booted into safe mode and did reset all, now I am back to square one. What do I do? Just wait for my 780 Ti?


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> I did that and it did not change anything. However what I also did was delete the default profile and have only the overclocked one, after a restart I couldn't get to desktop because the screen just displayed an alternating flash of red, green, blue, red/green/blue, black/white gradient, different type of black/white gradient in a cycle. Booted into safe mode and did reset all, now I am back to square one. What do I do? Just wait for my 780 Ti?


Just realized that you have HD3650. You can't overclock your monitor with that card so you'll have to wait till you get your 780 ti. And you don't want to delete the default profile, ever. Keep it second on the list so if the first one fails to load for whatever reason it has the default profile to load.


----------



## iluvkfc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Just realized that you have HD3650. You can't overclock your monitor with that card so you'll have to wait till you get your 780 ti.


Which cards are supported for overclocking?


----------



## T00Sp00kyFoU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> Which cards are supported for overclocking?


Don't worry, the 780ti will be able to do monitor overclocking. And it will be a BEAST of a card when it comes to frame rates.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

I'm testing out my Kingpin 780 TI right now with my Qnix and there's no issues lol. I stay over 100fps in BF4 on Ultra (msaa off though). Tomb raider I get mid to high 70's on Ultimate (including tressFX), Batman Arkham origins all DX11 on, 2x msaa everything up, avg 95 - 100fps... GET THE TI!

And I've overclocked my monitor to 110hz through Nvidia control panel. Pretty simple.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> Some people were requesting a 120hz ICC profile from me ages ago and I honestly forgot it. It's been two months since my first calibration though and I just re-calibrated my monitor and did a 96hz and 110hz profiles, since my monitor can't handle 120hz. I can't really see much of a difference between the profiles though so I suppose they will do the job with 120hz as well,. I also did this new profiles with a brighter backlight. My previous profiles were with brightness of 11 clicks from the minimum (120cd/cm2) and this new ones are done with 17 clicks (180cd/cm2) and the whites look so much better now even though they were already great before.
> 
> The files themselves are correctly named, but the ICC profile names, which you can see in the color management, are wrong in both profiles and I can't be arsed to fix that. Or rather I don't know how to change them without doing a re-calibration so they must do for now.
> 
> Qnix-96hz-180cdcm2.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> Qnix-110hz-180cdcm2.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> They are both set to 2.2 gamma, 6500k white point and 180cd/cm2 (17 clicks from the minimum). The 96hz profile wrongly says that that it's done with 120cd/cm2, while it's done with 180cd/cm2 and the 110hz profile wrongly says that it's a 120hz profile, while it's in fact 110hz. And please let me know how they work for you. Quite a few have like them the most so I'd suggest any one of you without your own calibration device to give them a go!


Thank you once again! Been using your previous 96hz profile since you originally posted it and now this one is even better.









More REPS!


----------



## Vesanius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> Which cards are supported for overclocking?


When you download something like that AMD patch I'd highly recommend you to READ the instructions... It clearly says that 5000-series GPU or newer is required.


----------



## OutlawII

Got shipping conformation yesterday and this morning it says monitor will be here on Wednesday! Must have some kinda Ninja shipping WOW thats fast from Korea


----------



## outsider7p

Any idea how long they take to ship? I ordered 2 days ago and I still haven't got a shipping confirmation :/ From accessories whole.

Thanks


----------



## WoOkiE FTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> Any idea how long they take to ship? I ordered 2 days ago and I still haven't got a shipping confirmation :/ From accessories whole.
> 
> Thanks


I'd have some patience for now. Korea was having their Lunar New Year and most of these places were closed. May be backlogged a bit. People have had good experiences with them, so I wouldn't worry too much about it.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> Any idea how long they take to ship? I ordered 2 days ago and I still haven't got a shipping confirmation :/ From accessories whole.
> 
> Thanks


I placed my order on the 2nd got conformation yesterday and its supposed to arrive tomorrow.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> I placed my order on the 2nd got conformation yesterday and its supposed to arrive tomorrow.


Same here. It was updated 5 hours ago it's in india right now though.


----------



## Spartan F8

For those of you using a color calibrator on your screen it seems it sets the software adjusted brightness slightly too high while accommodating for the gamma shift at 120hz. This is what causes the black textures in games to have degraded detail even after calibration. I tested this with crysis 1,2,3 BF4, skyrim and dead space for black detail degradation at overclocked/calibrated settings. It seems my spyder 4 overshoots in this regard.

To compensate you can lower the software brightness level by 5% and then 3% in whatever optimum color space your monitor has(generally red since this is a PLS panel). This tends to help quite a lot when rendering darker textures in general(and shadows especially in crysis outdoors). BF4 tended to have a bit better black gun textures(or at least this was the most noticeable). The difference was most predominant in dead space which gave less of a cartoon look and made it look a bit more natural.

Anything over 5% and 3% did not yield any better results. The gamma shifts slightly by about -0.02 giving you slightly under 2.2 but not ill effecting in a noticeable manner. This was tested on three of my Qnix monitors and seemed pretty much universal across all three panels so i thought i would share. I used the NVCP to drop the software controller brightness but it stands to reason that AMD CCC *should* work the same.

Let me know if anyone else can replicate this or if it is just me. This may be very YMMV or eye of the beholder but i think it is worth a try.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> For those of you using a color calibrator on your screen it seems it sets the software adjusted brightness slightly too high while accommodating for the gamma shift at 120hz. This is what causes the black textures in games to have degraded detail even after calibration. I tested this with crysis 1,2,3 BF4, skyrim and dead space for black detail degradation at overclocked/calibrated settings. It seems my spyder 4 overshoots in this regard.
> 
> To compensate you can lower the software brightness level by 5% and then 3% in whatever optimum color space your monitor has(generally red since this is a PLS panel). This tends to help quite a lot when rendering darker textures in general(and shadows especially in crysis outdoors). BF4 tended to have a bit better black gun textures(or at least this was the most noticeable). The difference was most predominant in dead space which gave less of a cartoon look and made it look a bit more natural.
> 
> Anything over 5% and 3% did not yield any better results. The gamma shifts slightly by about -0.02 giving you slightly under 2.2 but not ill effecting in a noticeable manner. This was tested on three of my Qnix monitors and seemed pretty much universal across all three panels so i thought i would share. I used the NVCP to drop the software controller brightness but it stands to reason that AMD CCC *should* work the same.
> 
> Let me know if anyone else can replicate this or if it is just me. This may be very YMMV or eye of the beholder but i think it is worth a try.


The Spyder 4 is not very good at measuring black levels, i.e. low IREs. It gives inaccurate readings. I didn't find the stock software with my Spyder4Express very good as it introduced banding even on an AMD card when it shouldn't. Don't know how good the more expensive package software is, but I use ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI. With that, you can disable black point compensation so that it doesn't touch the black levels. ArgyllCMS also allows a longer read time when low IRE patches are set for the Spyder to read them more accurately.

Color calibration does not work by setting software brightness or anything similar. It specifies a [3][256] 2D matrix, called a gamma ramp, that maps input RGB values to the proper output RGB values instead of assuming a linear input-output curve, adjusting the wrong colors and making them come closer to the reference colors. This means that you can have color adjustments apply for upper IREs without even touching the black levels and lower grayscales.

AMD CCC overrides and ignores any ICC profiles you have set, but the advantage is that CCC adjustments stick in games for sure. No idea how NVCP color controls do in that regard, this is something I'll have to investigate very closely with an owner of an Nvidia card.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> For those of you using a color calibrator on your screen it seems it sets the software adjusted brightness slightly too high while accommodating for the gamma shift at 120hz. This is what causes the black textures in games to have degraded detail even after calibration. I tested this with crysis 1,2,3 BF4, skyrim and dead space for black detail degradation at overclocked/calibrated settings. It seems my spyder 4 overshoots in this regard.
> 
> To compensate you can lower the software brightness level by 5% and then 3% in whatever optimum color space your monitor has(generally red since this is a PLS panel). This tends to help quite a lot when rendering darker textures in general(and shadows especially in crysis outdoors). BF4 tended to have a bit better black gun textures(or at least this was the most noticeable). The difference was most predominant in dead space which gave less of a cartoon look and made it look a bit more natural.
> 
> Anything over 5% and 3% did not yield any better results. The gamma shifts slightly by about -0.02 giving you slightly under 2.2 but not ill effecting in a noticeable manner. This was tested on three of my Qnix monitors and seemed pretty much universal across all three panels so i thought i would share. I used the NVCP to drop the software controller brightness but it stands to reason that AMD CCC *should* work the same.
> 
> Let me know if anyone else can replicate this or if it is just me. This may be very YMMV or eye of the beholder but i think it is worth a try.


Spartan have you tried calibrating using your Spyder 4 with Argyllcms?....the results are far better than the using standard Spyder software and i believe it will correct your brightness issues.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2983567

This will show you how to install the Spyder 4 driver for Argyllcms






Lol have just seen the post above....you must of been typing your answer at the same time as myself and we are on the same theme









Also when setting up and once you have loaded the "Spyder Argyll" driver go to tools in dispcalGUI find... "import colorimeter corrections from other display profiling software" ...then browse and find your Spyder 4 .Exe installer for the spyder 4 calibrating software and it select it and it will load your corrections into dispcalGUI


----------



## yasamoka

Hah, yep, seems like it. ArgyllCMS is awesome.


----------



## Spartan F8

After using ArgyllCMS i get almost the same black level enhancement but it does seem to be a bit better in certain areas. I am going to be stuck doing this on all my monitors for the rest of the day now testing









You learn something every day


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> After using ArgyllCMS i get almost the same black level enhancement but it does seem to be a bit better in certain areas. I am going to be stuck doing this on all my monitors for the rest of the day now testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You learn something every day


Spartan dont forget that once you have loaded the "Spyder Argyll" driver go to tools in dispcalGUI find... "import colorimeter corrections from other display profiling software" ...then browse and find your Spyder 4 .Exe installer for the spyder 4 calibrating software and it select it and it will load your corrections into dispcalGUI


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Spartan dont forget that once you have loaded the "Spyder Argyll" driver go to tools in dispcalGUI find... "import colorimeter corrections from other display profiling software" ...then browse and find your Spyder 4 .Exe installer for the spyder 4 calibrating software and it select it and it will load your corrections into dispcalGUI


I did not forget and without doing this there would not be any difference than before. There is clearly an improvement in black levels on textures.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Spartan have you tried calibrating using your Spyder 4 with Argyllcms?....the results are far better than the using standard Spyder software and i believe it will correct your brightness issues.
> 
> http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2983567


That guide is a bit old, but still seems relevant. I personally used *the* page for dispcalGUI: http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/

Once I set up dispcalGUI according to those instructions, it was smooth sailing from that. It's really easy to use once you get the hang of it.

EDIT: Spartan F8, how do you load your ICC profiles?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Package is in my area. Out for delivery today they said although its not marked as so which is confusing since it got here at 7am. But they said it should still get delivered so yeah we will see.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That guide is a bit old, but still seems relevant. I personally used *the* page for dispcalGUI: http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/
> 
> Once I set up dispcalGUI according to those instructions, it was smooth sailing from that. It's really easy to use once you get the hang of it.
> 
> EDIT: Spartan F8, how do you load your ICC profiles?


I actually used the the method in the page you just posted.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I actually used the the method in the page you just posted.


Which one? DispcalGUI page or Guru3D?


----------



## chestnuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chestnuts*
> 
> Hi all,
> I've just unpacked my Qnix QX2710. The quality is amazing.
> 
> However.. I went for Perfect Pixel version from accessorieswhole which is £240 (£40 more than standard) + £33.5 custom charges + £11.5 UPS handling fee = £285. Their policy states no defective pixels whatsoever which is pretty good and that's why I was prepared to pay a little bit more.
> 
> Then the horror:
> 
> 
> A defective pixel almost in the middle..
> 
> 
> on a green background:
> 
> 
> The BLB generally ok, quite significant at the top of the screen, looks like it's squeezed too much in that region, I'd probably try to fix it:
> 
> 
> I think I'll probably try returning it as it should be covered under their policy. The question is, has anyone gone through the process of returning the screen? Will I have to pay the custom charges again etc?
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi mate there is know horror its just inconvenience...if you ordered a pixel perfect like i did and he said that in the description like he did on mine "NOT ONE DEAD PIXEL" then you will be fine you will not of lost any money what so ever and you will have ebay on your side...also i don't believe for one minute that accessorieswhole will give you any trouble exchanging it...
> As for the back light bleeding except it is the main reason that it is an A- screen....however if you go back a few pages you will see my detailed guide on how to fix that.....it is exactly the same backlight bleed i had at the top of my monitor....in fact mine was worse....it because the top of the frame the screen is sat in is bent....its not a hard fix....get another pixel perfect one and fix that...i will help you fix that all i can...and then you will have a A+ grade screen and you will be happy...however first try some of the you tube site that can move and unstick stuck pixels...you might find its just a stuck pixel that you can fix!....dont worry every thing will be ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: looking at that blacklight bleed it is very very similar to what i had...if you took that screen out of the case in the frame and laied it face down on a flat work surface you will see running along the top of the frame that the middle of the frame is raised about 3/4 of an inch high from the flat table...there will be a long curved bend peeking in the middle to about 3/4 of an inch and then dropping back off to each corner...that is why in the middle of the picture there is no BLB cos the screen is tight there because that is where the frame is pinching tight on the screen...once straight it will be fixed and TOTALLY GONE!...


I've tried various methods and I couldn't get rid of that pesky pixel. I think I'm going to go ahead and exchange it for another one. I assume since I'm not buying a new one, the custom charges I paid will still apply, hopefully UPS won't do anything funny like charging me again..


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Package is in my area. Out for delivery today they said although its not marked as so which is confusing since it got here at 7am. But they said it should still get delivered so yeah we will see.


Really? I think we ordered at the same time, mine left india, but I don't know if the next stop is germany or something else..


----------



## hammelgammler

Any suggestion which colorimeter i should buy?
I heard good things about the xrite i1 pro, but its 60€ more expensive than a Spyder 4 pro or a colormunki from xrite.
120€ spyder4pro
180€ xrite i1 pro
I dont know which one i want to buy.
I need to calibrate two monitors at the same time, and I also have a 1080p beamer which could be calibrated as well. (BenQ W1080)
Maybe you can help me with that decision.


----------



## OutlawII

Last i checked mine was in India,going thru some checking thing i dont know


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Last i checked mine was in India,going thru some checking thing i dont know


Yeah, but I think UPS is also really bad at updating it's tracking for the customer.


----------



## Jetlitheone

So got my monitor today, no BLB at all as far as I can see (dark room maximum brightness) overclocks to 120hz no problem. Even better then my xstar that Im going to return.

Overall very satisfied







!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Any suggestion which colorimeter i should buy?
> I heard good things about the xrite i1 pro, but its 60€ more expensive than a Spyder 4 pro or a colormunki from xrite.
> 120€ spyder4pro
> 180€ xrite i1 pro
> I dont know which one i want to buy.
> I need to calibrate two monitors at the same time, and I also have a 1080p beamer which could be calibrated as well. (BenQ W1080)
> Maybe you can help me with that decision.


If I were going for a Spyder, I wouldn't go further than the Spyder4Express since you have open-source software (ArgyllCMS) support for the Spyder 4 sensor in general, and the sensors are all largely the same (as far as we know), bar the ambient light sensor and tripod mount present in the higher packages. The Spyder4Express currently goes for ~$90 on Amazon USA.

The Spyder sensors can't read black levels and lower grayscales very accurately, and that's a huge reason why I'd recommend a Spyder4Express for its price point and not pay the premium for the higher packages where other colorimeters for similar prices are better. For higher price points, I recommend better colorimeters (read below).

The i1 Display Pro and ColorMunki Display *(COLORIMETER - watch out, not spectrophotometer)* are also largely similar sensors (D3) with similar color performance but the i1DP is faster and comes with better software. Both are, again, supported by ArgyllCMS and HCFR and if you're willing to install these, the difference between these two is one of price (ColorMunki Display ~$170, i1DP ~$250) and speed (The i1DP is twice as fast, but they're both pretty fast).

ArgyllCMS and HFCR can work with multiple monitors, but the Spyder4Express software is basic and cannot. This doesn't mean anything though; you can calibrate each monitor individually, copy the profile produced and placed in the Windows/system32/spool/drivers/color, and obtain multiple profiles that you can apply across your displays.

The software I'd recommend for doing so is my own, found here.


----------



## Oliver1234

Hi all, I'm looking to purchase my first ever hi res, IPS monitor, and I want one around 350, not over 370 is doable. I've been eyeing the Yamakasi DS270 (http://www.amazon.com/YAMAKASI-DS270-IPS-SE-2560x1440/dp/B00E7NG5M8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) for a while now, would that be a good choice? If not, what others are good, and around the price range? Thanks in advance!!!


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> So got my monitor today, no BLB at all as far as I can see (dark room maximum brightness) overclocks to 120hz no problem. Even better then my xstar that Im going to return.
> 
> Overall very satisfied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Hell yeah !!


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If I were going for a Spyder, I wouldn't go further than the Spyder4Express since you have open-source software (ArgyllCMS) support for the Spyder 4 sensor in general, and the sensors are all largely the same (as far as we know), bar the ambient light sensor and tripod mount present in the higher packages. The Spyder4Express currently goes for ~$90 on Amazon USA.
> 
> The Spyder sensors can't read black levels and lower grayscales very accurately, and that's a huge reason why I'd recommend a Spyder4Express for its price point and not pay the premium for the higher packages where other colorimeters for similar prices are better.
> 
> The i1 Display Pro and ColorMunki Display *(COLORIMETER - watch out, not spectrophotometer)* are also largely similar sensors (D3) with similar color performance but the i1DP is faster and comes with better software. Both are, again, supported by ArgyllCMS and HCFR and if you're willing to install these, the difference between these two is one of price (ColorMunki Display ~$170, i1DP ~$250) and speed (The i1DP is twice as fast, but they're both pretty fast).
> 
> ArgyllCMS and HFCR can work with multiple monitors, but the Spyder4Express software is basic and cannot. This doesn't mean anything though; you can calibrate each monitor individually, copy the profile produced and placed in the Windows/system32/spool/drivers/color, and obtain multiple profiles that you can apply across your displays.
> 
> The software I'd recommend for doing so is my own, found here.


Thank you very much!
I just canceled my order for the Spyder4Pro and ordered an Express for 75€.
That ambient light sensor thing is not worth for me to pay almost twice the price.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> So got my monitor today, no BLB at all as far as I can see (dark room maximum brightness) overclocks to 120hz no problem. Even better then my xstar that Im going to return.
> 
> Overall very satisfied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Congratz dude!


----------



## Uzukami

Expecting my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" from accessorieswhole tomorrow if the estimate from UPS is accurate, in terms of the PSU can I just use a UK plug instead of the adapter they send with it?

Will write my experience when I get the thing if anyone is interested.


----------



## Gilles3000

I ordered my Qnix today, hopefully i'll get a good one


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzukami*
> 
> Expecting my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" from accessorieswhole tomorrow if the estimate from UPS is accurate, in terms of the PSU can I just use a UK plug instead of the adapter they send with it?
> 
> Will write my experience when I get the thing if anyone is interested.


Yeah sure just don't use the adapter. The standart plug is the usual one you know from your everyday life.
Mine just went from India to germany in 6 hours lol


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Thank you very much!
> I just canceled my order for the Spyder4Pro and ordered an Express for 75€.
> That ambient light sensor thing is not worth for me to pay almost twice the price.


Is the Colormunki Display available to you?


----------



## Jetlitheone

BTW accessorieswhole is much better then green-sum at packing, the monitor came in 2 boxes as opposed to one dented and ripped box


----------



## Uzukami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Yeah sure just don't use the adapter. The standart plug is the usual one you know from your everyday life.
> Mine just went from India to germany in 6 hours lol


Mines been on a world tour so far
Mumbai, India 02/04/2014 4:45 P.M. Departure Scan
02/04/2014 9:31 A.M. Arrival Scan
Bangkok, Thailand 02/04/2014 7:01 A.M. Departure Scan
02/04/2014 5:28 A.M. Arrival Scan
Shenzhen, China 02/04/2014 3:57 A.M. Departure Scan
02/04/2014 12:21 A.M. Arrival Scan
Incheon, Korea, Republic of 02/03/2014 10:46 P.M. Departure Scan
02/03/2014 9:50 A.M. Released by Clearing Agency. Now in-transit
Incheon, Korea, Republic of 02/03/2014 6:34 P.M. Export Scan
02/03/2014 6:25 P.M. Departure Scan
02/03/2014 4:57 P.M. Origin Scan
02/03/2014 10:57 A.M. Pickup Scan
Korea, Republic of 02/03/2014 11:30 A.M. Order Processed: Ready for UPS

LOL


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> BTW accessorieswhole is much better then green-sum at packing, the monitor came in 2 boxes as opposed to one dented and ripped box


I was very impressed with accessorieswhole. My unit shipped immediately, arrived fast, unit box was well packed inside a bigger box with plenty of padding, and zero dead pixels with only a tiny bit of bleed. I plan to order a second unit from accessorieswhole.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzukami*
> 
> Mines been on a world tour so far
> Mumbai, India 02/04/2014 4:45 P.M. Departure Scan
> 02/04/2014 9:31 A.M. Arrival Scan
> Bangkok, Thailand 02/04/2014 7:01 A.M. Departure Scan
> 02/04/2014 5:28 A.M. Arrival Scan
> Shenzhen, China 02/04/2014 3:57 A.M. Departure Scan
> 02/04/2014 12:21 A.M. Arrival Scan
> Incheon, Korea, Republic of 02/03/2014 10:46 P.M. Departure Scan
> 02/03/2014 9:50 A.M. Released by Clearing Agency. Now in-transit
> Incheon, Korea, Republic of 02/03/2014 6:34 P.M. Export Scan
> 02/03/2014 6:25 P.M. Departure Scan
> 02/03/2014 4:57 P.M. Origin Scan
> 02/03/2014 10:57 A.M. Pickup Scan
> Korea, Republic of 02/03/2014 11:30 A.M. Order Processed: Ready for UPS
> 
> LOL


The next station after india should be UK atleast in my case it was germany, but UK is in the same direction so i dont know.


----------



## Uzukami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> The next station after india should be UK atleast in my case it was germany, but UK is in the same direction so i dont know.


Expected delivery is 2/5/14 so it should be, I can see UK customs destroying my day though.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> So got my monitor today, no BLB at all as far as I can see (dark room maximum brightness) overclocks to 120hz no problem. Even better then my xstar that Im going to return.
> 
> Overall very satisfied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Did u order PP?


----------



## kornedbeefy

I need to clarify whether I should get one of these and overclock it for gaming. The reason I ask is because of this answer in the FAQ

"Q: Will I be able to notice the response time and/or input lag (especially in gaming)?
A: Many users, myself included, have noticed motion blur during FPS gaming (such as planetside 2). It would be even more noticeable in 'twitch' gaming. It is fine for regular use (Leauge of Legends, Guildwars 2, etc.), but gaming professionals should look elsewhere"

So I consider myself a hardcore gamer. However I currently own a Crossover 27q 2560x1440p that I use for gaming which includes twitch FPSers. So shouldn't a Qnix or X-Star overclocked be better for gaming/reduced motion blur over the Crossover that's not overclocked?

Thanks!


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Did u order PP?


Nope I did not.


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Guys ordering my stand for my monitor QNIX QX2710. These both look the same to me. Do you think there is a difference.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105970-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_6?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1391566960&sr=1-6&keywords=Adjustable+Tilting+Monitor+Desk

http://www.amazon.com/Mount--Adjustable-Tilting-Single-Bracket/dp/B005C29QN8/ref=sr_1_5?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1391566960&sr=1-5&keywords=Adjustable+Tilting+Monitor+Desk

I am in Singapore so have to use Amazon as it offers free shipping to Singapore


----------



## Osteoman

Ok so I am using the color profile of Lawson's at 120hz. It looks great.

But COH2 has a setting where you can choose the resolution and refresh rate in game. When I choose the 120hz option the game darkens like it is not using the 120hz color profile that is active on the desktop and is being used in other games. When I use the resolution with the 60hz option in game it runs with the right colors but while it runs faster then 60 fps it doesn't have as high of fps as it does with the setting in game at 120hz.

How to get the right colors and best fps in game?

Also, please don't ban Lawson, he has been extremely helpful to many in this forum and was just quoting someone.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Ok so I am using the color profile of Lawson's at 120hz. It looks great.
> 
> But COH2 has a setting where you can choose the resolution and refresh rate in game. When I choose the 120hz option the game darkens like it is not using the 120hz color profile that is active on the desktop and is being used in other games. When I use the resolution with the 60hz option in game it runs with the right colors but while it runs faster then 60 fps it doesn't have as high of fps as it does with the setting in game at 120hz.
> 
> How to get the right colors and best fps in game?
> 
> Also, please don't ban Lawson, he has been extremely helpful to many in this forum and was just quoting someone.


Are you using CPKeeper?


----------



## Uzukami

Castle Donnington, United Kingdom 02/05/2014 3:00 A.M. Arrival Scan
Koeln, Germany 02/05/2014 2:42 A.M. Departure Scan

What sort of technology does UPS have at their disposal, I am genuinely scared!!!

Germany to UK takes 18 minutes......


----------



## WoOkiE FTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzukami*
> 
> Castle Donnington, United Kingdom 02/05/2014 3:00 A.M. Arrival Scan
> Koeln, Germany 02/05/2014 2:42 A.M. Departure Scan
> 
> What sort of technology does UPS have at their disposal, I am genuinely scared!!!
> 
> Germany to UK takes 18 minutes......


Time zone difference? lol tracking information always seems off when I track stuff anyway. Probably just the time that it happened to update through the site *shrug*


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnie_gogs*
> 
> Guys ordering my stand for my monitor QNIX QX2710. These both look the same to me. Do you think there is a difference.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105970-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_6?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1391566960&sr=1-6&keywords=Adjustable+Tilting+Monitor+Desk
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Mount--Adjustable-Tilting-Single-Bracket/dp/B005C29QN8/ref=sr_1_5?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1391566960&sr=1-5&keywords=Adjustable+Tilting+Monitor+Desk
> 
> I am in Singapore so have to use Amazon as it offers free shipping to Singapore


Yes they are the same so either one will be fine.


----------



## Kold

So after having my damaged X-Star sent back to dream-seller on his dime, he received it and sent me this message:

Seller's message:
"Hello, The monitor arrived last night and I was able to have our tech check it out. You would like a replacement correct? I am truly sorry for this incident, I know how important this was to you to pay extra to make sure it is perfect. Though we do not know the actual reason of the line of the dead pixels, we will make sure that it is perfect and will provide you a recorded video, or a picture of the testing scene for your monitor. I hope you can kindly understand and please let me know how to further assist you. Thank you!"

I have to give props to him and his business. This is the kind of customer service that will keep me buying my monitors from him. I was pretty annoyed at receiving a damaged display, but he really has made everything smooth and easy for me. When I get the link to him checking my monitor out, I'll post it.


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> Yes they are the same so either one will be fine.


Thanks will order the cheaper one then... thanks


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Are you using CPKeeper?


I am not, but that is an idea. I will try it. Thanks for the thought.


----------



## Jetlitheone

so the monitor isnt perfect..









has a bunch of big white lines on the top right area..

Dont know what it is to be honest :|

only see it on black backgrounds..

like a backlight bleed but with streaks instead of sections..?


----------



## Jetlitheone

There it is. I edited it to make it pop much more so you guys can see it?

Any idea what it is?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Stige

I have the same, except they are from top to bottom instead of right to left...

I haven't taken it apart yet to see if it's just the frame causing it but I somehow doubt that.

Yours is nowhere near as bad as mine is though, only clean section I have is in the middle of the screen, they are coming all the way to almost middle from top and bottom..


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I have the same, except they are from top to bottom instead of right to left...
> 
> I haven't taken it apart yet to see if it's just the frame causing it but I somehow doubt that.
> 
> Yours is nowhere near as bad as mine is though, only clean section I have is in the middle of the screen, they are coming all the way to almost middle from top and bottom..


Doing so now I think it might be causing the backlight to be uneven


----------



## Jetlitheone

Took it apart. its the frame thats causing it to do that, if I bend it slightly it goes away then appears in another area... the metal frame seems bent.

put it back together. Wanted to make sure I could disassemble and assemble it fine which I did.









talking to the seller now to see what I can do lol praying I can fix it myself or he will take it and not notice the prop marks on the casing lol ( the plastic is so cheap)


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

SO my monitor just arrived as far as I can see no defect pixels and almost no BLB only in the bottom right like a little bit I think it's getting squeezed there. However in the process of OCing the monitor just started switching from white to black to red to green to blue etc. and I can't seem to stop it. What did I do wrong and what do I have to do to fix it?


----------



## smokerings

So I'm looking at buying one of the Qnix 2710 Evo II panels locally.

It's a glossy panel and was bought in April of last year, he claims no dead pixels and slight back-lighting bleed at the bottom which may be able to be toned down a bit.

I'm currently at $250 + a 2 hour round trip to pick it up and the trade includes a 3 month old Corsair CX750 that was a freebie included with my Air 540/H110 buy along with two earthwatts 430w PSUs that were both system pulls.
The only real value in any of them is the 750w Corsair which I believe uses a CWT platform similar to one of the first versions of the TX650.

Basically the point of this post is to ask for some input on this decision.
I'm currently using a single Dell 2209wa, 22" 1680x1050 eips at 76hz on a GTX 670 2gb that cost me all of $100.
Selling my 5850 1gb for $140 to a scrypt miner put $40 back into my pocket after upgrading to the 670!

I'm currently looking for another GTX 670 at the $170-220 price range as I would need the extra pixel pushing power and a 670 sli config at $280-300 would be pretty good bang for the buck, right?
I'd need another PSU too as my Corsair hx520 would be pushing it with two 670s and an overclocked 4670k.

I was thinking of keeping the CX750 for that purpose but I'd want something better for my personal rig!

Ok, now going back to the monitor after going off on a hardware tangent.
I'll be able to test it before buying, is there anything I should be looking out for?

Thanks for any input


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Took it apart. its the frame thats causing it to do that, if I bend it slightly it goes away then appears in another area... the metal frame seems bent.
> 
> put it back together. Wanted to make sure I could disassemble and assemble it fine which I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> talking to the seller now to see what I can do lol praying I can fix it myself or he will take it and not notice the prop marks on the casing lol ( the plastic is so cheap)


I personally believe 99.9% of these screens are rejected Because of bent frames!...some of course have dead pixels however that's to a lesser extent...and if you do have dead pixels you will also have a bent frame...double trouble... and if you get one with NO dead pixels you can pretty much guarantee you will still have a bent frame....if you think about it there are only 4 - 5 manufacturers of LCD screen.... and they have to feed the whole planets demand for LCD screens....there simply is no time to mess round employing people to repair bent frames....the most economic solution would be to sell them as A- screens which is all the better for us....

Jet follow my guide and you will soon have the frame straight....also remember if you ask for a replacement its still going to have a bent frame in some form or another...it could be worse or it could be better...but if i was you and i did not have any dead pixels i would get on with straightening the frame...not only will you repair it 100% you will have a great feeling of satisfaction and achievement every time you still in front of it....also these panels fixed 100% with no BLB are simply outstanding!


----------



## hammelgammler

Could anyone tell me if the ColorMunki ColorMunki better choice oder the Spyder 4 Express?
If both are used with open source software, is the ColorMunki a better choice?
ColorMunki would be around 120€ and Spyder4Express 75€.
As mentioned the Spyder has some kind of problems to read a good black level of the screen.
Ordered the Spyder 4 Express but just want to know if the ColorMunki would be better for the value.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey guys,
So I OC'ed my monitor to 120 and it started flickering at certain point's even at 96 there is one pixel that is flickering. Is there a way of fixing it?


----------



## rob022614

Hey guys,

8 just got my x-star today and attempted to oc to 96hz and when my computer restarts it shows the bios info but when it goes to load windows the screen blacks out and the blue led starts flashing red? Any h3lp would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rob022614*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 8 just got my x-star today and attempted to oc to 96hz and when my computer restarts it shows the bios info but when it goes to load windows the screen blacks out and the blue led starts flashing red? Any h3lp would be greatly appreciated.


Read the first page of the guide go step by step and if still no work then report what u all did,just saying hey i tried to overclock and now it dont work just doesnt cut it if u know what i mean


----------



## rob022614

i got it. I just had to boot from safe mode. Just was not used to the asus bios. Thanks for the help though.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I personally believe 99.9% of these screens are rejected Because of bent frames!...some of course have dead pixels however that's to a lesser extent...and if you do have dead pixels you will also have a bent frame...double trouble... and if you get one with NO dead pixels you can pretty much guarantee you will still have a bent frame....if you think about it there are only 4 - 5 manufacturers of LCD screen.... and they have to feed the whole planets demand for LCD screens....there simply is no time to mess round employing people to repair bent frames....the most economic solution would be to sell them as A- screens which is all the better for us....
> 
> Jet follow my guide and you will soon have the frame straight....also remember if you ask for a replacement its still going to have a bent frame in some form or another...it could be worse or it could be better...but if i was you and i did not have any dead pixels i would get on with straightening the frame...not only will you repair it 100% you will have a great feeling of satisfaction and achievement every time you still in front of it....also these panels fixed 100% with no BLB are simply outstanding!


I think I will its just what my monitor is doing is really strange as you can see in the pictures. Not sure it will be fixed by that. I caused a stuck pixel unplugging it lol I'm sure I can fix that anyways but yeah if you look at my image its strange what its doing. Unless you've seen that before which I haven't.


----------



## rob022614

On another note just got the perfect pixle version of the x-star and no dead pixles and pretty much no blb which really surprised me. I got it from dream-seller and on the 2nd when they came back from holiday sent a message asking when it would be sent and also told them that i hope they had a good holiday. Sometimes it helps to be nice i guess or i just got lucky.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Could anyone tell me if the ColorMunki ColorMunki better choice oder the Spyder 4 Express?
> If both are used with open source software, is the ColorMunki a better choice?
> ColorMunki would be around 120€ and Spyder4Express 75€.
> As mentioned the Spyder has some kind of problems to read a good black level of the screen.
> Ordered the Spyder 4 Express but just want to know if the ColorMunki would be better for the value.


I would buy the Spyder 4 express because its the cheapest spyder 4 and its cheaper than the ColorMunki and is as good if not better than the ColorMunki.......also the spyder 4 express uses the same sensors patches that the pro and elite version use...the difference with the spyders is in the software...however if you use it with Argyll and dispcalGUI which is free and better than any of the spyder software then you have a cheap spyder 4 that will out preform a spyder elite if the spyder 4 elite owner did not use Argyll and dispcalGUI software....and if he did use Argyll and dispcalGUI software he would have no better performance than you with your spyder 4 express!


----------



## Gelfling

Hello all, I've followed this thread for awhile and I got my x-star from dreamseller 2 weeks ago. I'm running 96hz and and Versanius's icc profile.

I'm in the same boat as most here. Very happy with what I received. No dead/stuck pixels, but some minimal BLB, all along the bottom and more toward the right corner. At first it didn't bother me, but after a few weeks of seeing it during loading screens I'm probably going to pop this sucker open and bend my frame. From reading everything here, I'd be surprised if my frame wasn't bent at least a little bit. I'll probably get to it this weekend and I'll post some before and after shots. I HAVE HIGH HOPES! Even if the blb can't be lessened, I feel pretty happy with this purchase.

Question, Have we pretty much abandoned the idea that taping helps? Are most of us under the impression that straightening the frame does more to relieve the BLB than taping, or is the consensus that we should do both if we have the screen disassembled anyways?

Thanks in advance


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Hey guys,
> So I OC'ed my monitor to 120 and it started flickering at certain point's even at 96 there is one pixel that is flickering. Is there a way of fixing it?


Try some of the stuck pixel you tube sites


----------



## madhatter01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I personally believe 99.9% of these screens are rejected Because of bent frames!...some of course have dead pixels however that's to a lesser extent...and if you do have dead pixels you will also have a bent frame...double trouble... and if you get one with NO dead pixels you can pretty much guarantee you will still have a bent frame....if you think about it there are only 4 - 5 manufacturers of LCD screen.... and they have to feed the whole planets demand for LCD screens....there simply is no time to mess round employing people to repair bent frames....the most economic solution would be to sell them as A- screens which is all the better for us....
> 
> Jet follow my guide and you will soon have the frame straight....also remember if you ask for a replacement its still going to have a bent frame in some form or another...it could be worse or it could be better...but if i was you and i did not have any dead pixels i would get on with straightening the frame...not only will you repair it 100% you will have a great feeling of satisfaction and achievement every time you still in front of it....also these panels fixed 100% with no BLB are simply outstanding!


Can you provide a link to your guide for bent frames, thanks.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I would buy the Spyder 4 express because its the cheapest spyder 4 and its cheaper than the ColorMunki and is as good if not better than the ColorMunki.......also the spyder 4 express uses the same sensors patches that the pro and elite version use...the difference with the spyders is in the software...however if you use it with Argyll and dispcalGUI which is free and better than any of the spyder software then you have a cheap spyder 4 that will out preform a spyder elite if the spyder 4 elite owner did not use Argyll and dispcalGUI software....and if he did use Argyll and dispcalGUI software he would have no better performance than you with your spyder 4 express!


Well, i understand the point that it make no difference which one of the Spyder Devices i buy, but the ColorMunki is a different colorimeter.
So i just need an advice if the ColorMunki would be better. As i said, someone mentioned that the Spyder can not read the blacks of the monitor very well, maybe the ColorMunki would be better in this point.
But it costs at ~40€ more, but if it would be much better than the Spyder, than maybe its worth.
But i cant really find good information about the differences, especially when using Argyll for both devices.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gelfling*
> 
> Hello all, I've followed this thread for awhile and I got my x-star from dreamseller 2 weeks ago. I'm running 96hz and and Versanius's icc profile.
> 
> I'm in the same boat as most here. Very happy with what I received. No dead/stuck pixels, but some minimal BLB, all along the bottom and more toward the right corner. At first it didn't bother me, but after a few weeks of seeing it during loading screens I'm probably going to pop this sucker open and bend my frame. From reading everything here, I'd be surprised if my frame wasn't bent at least a little bit. I'll probably get to it this weekend and I'll post some before and after shots. I HAVE HIGH HOPES! Even if the blb can't be lessened, I feel pretty happy with this purchase.
> 
> Question, Have we pretty much abandoned the idea that taping helps? Are most of us under the impression that straightening the frame does more to relieve the BLB than taping, or is the consensus that we should do both if we have the screen disassembled anyways?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Tape can not do much if the frame is bent...it will only make the tighter part of the bent frame even tighter...it will also only go help fill in some of the lose gaps that carry on down to each corner of the frame... why put tape in the frame if you can clearly see a bend?...why not just straighten the frame?...also to put tape in the frame you STILL have to remove the frame from the monitor....so what to do is this

Remove the frame lay it on a flat table...look for a bend in the frame...it is highly likely you will see one...BLB can only come from the screen not sitting in the frame correctly...so remove frame ...forget tape....straighten frame replace.


----------



## Gelfling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Tape can not do much if the frame is bent...it will only make the tighter part of the bent frame even tighter...it will also only go help fill in some of the lose gaps that carry on down to each corner of the frame...you do why put tape in the frame if you can clearly see a bend?...why not just straighten the frame?...also to put tape in the frame you STILL have to remove the frame from the monitor....so what to do is this
> 
> Remove the frame lay it on a flat table...look for a bend in the frame...it is highly likely you will see one...BLB can only come from the screen not sitting in the frame correctly...so remove frame ...forget tape....straighten frame replace.


This was my assumption. Thanks for the clarification Lawson. Maybe the OP can be updated to reflect this.


----------



## Gelfling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madhatter01*
> 
> Can you provide a link to your guide for bent frames, thanks.


I think you're referring to this post by Lawson

The guide consists of simply bending the frame until it's straight. If you're looking for instruction on opening the monitor up to get to the frame, that information is in the OP


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gelfling*
> 
> I think you're referring to this post by Lawson
> 
> The guide consists of simply bending the frame until it's straight. If you're looking for instruction on opening the monitor up to get to the frame, that information is in the OP


There are at least 2 posts of mine on this page that will greatly help you strip down straighten and repair your frame









I am not a moderator so i can not update OP sorry

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Well, i understand the point that it make no difference which one of the Spyder Devices i buy, but the ColorMunki is a different colorimeter.
> So i just need an advice if the ColorMunki would be better. As i said, someone mentioned that the Spyder can not read the blacks of the monitor very well, maybe the ColorMunki would be better in this point.
> But it costs at ~40€ more, but if it would be much better than the Spyder, than maybe its worth.
> But i cant really find good information about the differences, especially when using Argyll for both devices.


The problem with the blacks and the Spyder 4 is the software especially the express software....however the device itself which is of very good quality and more than capable of doing a fantastic calibration....most calibrators have only 3 patches for the RGB senors and i think that includes the ColorMunki....the Spyder 4 have 7 patches...the device is good the software not so good especially the express software....personaly i would get the spyder 4 express and use with Argyll and dispcalGUI

Edit i did a 120hz large LUT profile calibrate a few nights ago with my spyder 4 pro using the Argyll and dispcalGUI software....it took 3.5 hours to complete but dam the resulting ICC profile was outstanding!


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The problem with the blacks and the Spyder 4 is the software especially the express software....however the device itself which is of very good quality and more than capable of doing a fantastic calibration....most calibrators have only 3 patches for the RGB senors and i think that includes the ColorMunki....the Spyder 4 have 7 patches...the device is good the software not so good especially the express software....personaly i would get the spyder 4 express and use with Argyll and dispcalGUI
> 
> Edit i did a 120hz large LUT profile calibrate a few nights ago with my spyder 4 pro using the Argyll and dispcalGUI software....it took 3.5 hours to complete but dam the resulting ICC profile was outstanding!


If its only the software that is bad then eveything is fine.
I will definitely do that large LUT @96Hz calibration. No problem when the process need 3.5 hours, i just want a very good profile.
Thank you very much for your advice, you are doing a very well "job" here at the forum.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Hey Lawson think if I open it up I can repair it with the frame bending? It seems to help the lines when I slightly warp the frame but then it appears elsewhere. I can also see visually that its bent


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Hey Lawson think if I open it up I can repair it with the frame bending? It seems to help the lines when I slightly warp the frame but then it appears elsewhere. I can also see visually that its bent


Yeah you need to get it out and repair it...and yes you will be able to see the bend on the frame in the case...now go clear off your dinning room table and go follow my guide...its the ONLY way you can fix it...pushing and pulling the panel inside the case or trying to use tape balls or cardboard stuck here of there will only keep moving the BLB from one part of the Screen to another...go take your time just relax doing it follow my guide....its not hard at all and very satisfying on completion









But what ever you do DONT try to straighten the frame without removing it from the monitor!


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey,
So I received my Qnix this morning and plugged it in after checking for BLB and dead pixels I decided to start OCing the Monitor. So I downloaded all the stuff from the front page, uninstalled my graphics driver and rebooted the first time. Right after that I installed the newest driver again and rebooted again. So after that I ran the patch and everthing was ok at that point so I decided to create a 120 Hz profile the same that Lawson is offering for our members here. After rebooting the monitor was set to 120 Hz, but I noticed a green flickering at certain colours on the wallpaper. SO I rebooted again and created a setup for 96 Herz the flicking was redcued, but there was still one green flickering pixel. Now I have my monitor set back to 60 hz since the flickering was just too much. Does anyone know why this happens?


----------



## Ovrclck

Nm.


----------



## Uzukami

I just used NVIDIA settings created new profile at 100Hz, tried 120Hz but got purple lines on one game so played it safe at 100Hz.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Hey,
> So I received my Qnix this morning and plugged it in after checking for BLB and dead pixels I decided to start OCing the Monitor. So I downloaded all the stuff from the front page, uninstalled my graphics driver and rebooted the first time. Right after that I installed the newest driver again and rebooted again. So after that I ran the patch and everthing was ok at that point so I decided to create a 120 Hz profile the same that Lawson is offering for our members here. After rebooting the monitor was set to 120 Hz, but I noticed a green flickering at certain colours on the wallpaper. SO I rebooted again and created a setup for 96 Herz the flicking was redcued, but there was still one green flickering pixel. Now I have my monitor set back to 60 hz since the flickering was just too much. Does anyone know why this happens?


Did you create the custom resolutions with CRU?...are you using the DUEL LINK cable that come with the monitor?...if yes to the last to questions try another DVI-D port on your graphic card if you have one


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Did you create the custom resolutions with CRU?...are you using the DUEL LINK cable that come with the monitor?...if yes to the last to questions try another DVI-D port on your graphic card if you have one


Yes I created it with the CRU. And I'm using the cable that came with the monitor. I don't have another DVI-D port I've the 7870 so 1xHDMI 1 DVI 2 DP. I had the same problem when I was using my old monitor on 60 hz and It was crazy flickering at 60hz so I had to turn it down to 50hz, but the monitor was also 3 or 4 years old so I don't know. I could try another cable, but I doubt that would result into anything since it appeared on the other monitor with this cable. Do you think that my graphics card is the problem?


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Yes I created it with the CRU. And I'm using the cable that came with the monitor. I don't have another DVI-D port I've the 7870 so 1xHDMI 1 DVI 2 DP. I had the same problem when I was using my old monitor on 60 hz and It was crazy flickering at 60hz so I had to turn it down to 50hz, but the monitor was also 3 or 4 years old so I don't know. I could try another cable, but I doubt that would result into anything since it appeared on the other monitor with this cable. Do you think that my graphics card is the problem?


Sounds like a bad GPU


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Yes I created it with the CRU. And I'm using the cable that came with the monitor. I don't have another DVI-D port I've the 7870 so 1xHDMI 1 DVI 2 DP. I had the same problem when I was using my old monitor on 60 hz and It was crazy flickering at 60hz so I had to turn it down to 50hz, but the monitor was also 3 or 4 years old so I don't know. I could try another cable, but I doubt that would result into anything since it appeared on the other monitor with this cable. Do you think that my graphics card is the problem?


After saying it could be like this with your old monitor at 60hz....i would be inclined to remove and reseat your graphics card....blow out any dust etc

Also remove any overclock settings you may have on your GPU...if you have any?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> After saying it could be like this with your old monitor at 60hz....i would be inclined to remove and reseat your graphics card....blow out any dust etc
> 
> Also remove any overclock settings you may have on your GPU...if you have any?


Yeah I kept it really clean though like the last time I cleaned it was 3 months ago, but I'm going to clean it again tomorrow If you think that this would help.
Also I never ever OC'ed this gpu.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Yeah I kept it really clean though like the last time I cleaned it was 3 months ago, but I'm going to clean it again tomorrow If you think that this would help.
> Also I never ever OC'ed this gpu.


If the above does not work it may suggest that it a graphics card problem sounds like it could have a fault i am sorry to say...have you got another card you can try?.....brothers/sisters/mums/dads/cats/dogs.....find another card to test


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> If the above does not work it may suggest that it a graphics card problem sounds like it could have a fault i am sorry to say...have you got another card you can try?.....brothers/sisters/mums/dads/cats/dogs.....find another card to test


Unfortunately everyone of my family uses a notebook..I've a card from like 2004, but I had plans on upgrading my graphicscard anyways so it's not a huge deal for me to be honest. I just need to pass a month until I get a new graphicscard


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

AMD Radeon HD 7870 GPU
AMD FX-8120 CPU
Asustek M5A87 Motherboard
8 Gigs of Ram
Some quality 550w PSU

Should I get a R 290x? If yes do I need to upgrade more than only the gpu?


----------



## smokerings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> AMD Radeon HD 7870 GPU
> AMD FX-8120 CPU
> Asustek M5A87 Motherboard
> 8 Gigs of Ram
> Some quality 550w PSU
> 
> Should I get a R 290x? If yes do I need to upgrade more than only the gpu?


I think that would be a fine upgrade, sure you would get more FPS with a "faster" cpu but you're still going to see an improvement over your 7870.

My concern would be your 550w PSU, an overclocked FX8120 uses a lot of power as does the R9-290x.
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2012/07/27/amd-fx-8120-review/7
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/10/24/amd-radeon-r9-290x-4gb-review/11

I'd say if you were overclocking both you may want something in the 650w and up range.

(Of course that's if you're loading all the cpu cores while running something like furmark)


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokerings*
> 
> I think that would be a fine upgrade, sure you would get more FPS with a "faster" cpu but you're still going to see an improvement over your 7870.
> 
> My concern would be your 550w PSU, an overclocked FX8120 uses a lot of power as does the R9-290x.
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2012/07/27/amd-fx-8120-review/7
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/10/24/amd-radeon-r9-290x-4gb-review/11
> 
> I'd say if you were overclocking both you may want something in the 650w and up range.
> 
> (Of course that's if you're loading all the cpu cores while running something like furmark)


Okay so the CPU and the motherboard is fine for a R9 290x? Can you recommend a decent 650w that does the job? Also which version of the r9 290x should I get (saphire etc.)


----------



## OutlawII

Just got it delivered and hooked up to my pc! HOLY MOLY is this thing hugE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No dead pixels and virtually no blb that i can see looks solid boys!!! The packaging and shipping was better than stuff ive ordered from Newegg.


----------



## Jetlitheone

So contacting the seller for a replacement. Needless to say it wasn't the frame that was bent and making it have streaks and now there's like white noise in the area lol. I'm gonna get my money well I better. I'm pissed right now -,- I would get a perfect one without any dead pixels but one huge defect. Lol ***


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Well, i understand the point that it make no difference which one of the Spyder Devices i buy, but the ColorMunki is a different colorimeter.
> So i just need an advice if the ColorMunki would be better. As i said, someone mentioned that the Spyder can not read the blacks of the monitor very well, maybe the ColorMunki would be better in this point.
> But it costs at ~40€ more, but if it would be much better than the Spyder, than maybe its worth.
> But i cant really find good information about the differences, especially when using Argyll for both devices.


That was my point, the other devices I mentioned are superior. The Colormunki can read blacks quite better than the Spyder 4 and thus you can rely on it to touch up your lower grayscales if need be. At 40 extra I'd go for it without even asking. That's what I'm doing tomorrow lol, but from Amazon USA.

Also, the Spyder 3 units used to have some 17% (?) variance between units or something? Maybe even a third were a bit wonky. The Spyder 4, not much data is available but it's established that the i1DP, hence the Colormunki, have no such (large) variance and all samples tested gave ~same results.

These sensors are better than Spyder4Pro / Elite for sure, spend your money wisely guys.


----------



## smokerings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Okay so the CPU and the motherboard is fine for a R9 290x? Can you recommend a decent 650w that does the job? Also which version of the r9 290x should I get (saphire etc.)


I haven't been paying much attention to hardware the past couple of years until I just did my new build last month, which I'm still working on. (We are never done are we?)
Your CPU and motherboard would handle that card fine, like I said you might get more fps with something like an i5 4670k but that means having to just spend more and more.

From what I've read myself, with a FX Series AMD and 290x, I would be going to something in the 750w range or even higher as I like to overclock and stress test my rig.
I'm not quite sure on what PSUs are being recommended these days but I'm going to have to read into it myself as I'm looking at adding a 2nd GTX 670 2gb and I don't think my Corsair 520HX would be happy with that.

Your 550w might run the system fine, I just see numbers all over the place and have no real world experience.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7457/the-radeon-r9-290x-review/19
Total system load of 400~ watts running furmark and crysis 3 with an i7 4960X at 4.2GHz, that's also not running a heavy load on all the cpu cores either.
Anyways just ask some people with more experience or have spent more time reading.









On your question with the R9 290x version I'd only be looking at models with non reference coolers like the Asus DirectCU II, Gigabyte Windforce and Sapphire Tri-X.

Keep in mind this is only from browsing hardware forums and reading reviews but the cards run hot, and the stock coolers have to make an absolute ton of noise to keep the temps in a range where it's not just throttling all the time.

I'd say do a few searches around the PSU and Video card forums and soak some more info up yourself.

Sorry if I wasn't much help, just trying to point you in the direction I'd go.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That was my point, the other devices I mentioned are superior. The Colormunki can read blacks quite better than the Spyder 4 and thus you can rely on it to touch up your lower grayscales if need be. At 40 extra I'd go for it without even asking. That's what I'm doing tomorrow lol, but from Amazon USA.
> 
> Also, the Spyder 3 units used to have some 17% (?) variance between units or something? Maybe even a third were a bit wonky. The Spyder 4, not much data is available but it's established that the i1DP, hence the Colormunki, have no such (large) variance and all samples tested gave ~same results.
> 
> These sensors are better than Spyder4Pro / Elite for sure, spend your money wisely guys.


Well its ~50€ more...
I have to think about that... Its much more for only that it can read blacks better.
Tomorrow or at least friday my Spyder4Express will arrive so that i can test it.
Does anyone have a comparison between the two devices?
If i would need the ambient light feature or the projector calibration i would say the 50€ is well spended. But only for a better reading result of the black level?...


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Well its ~50€ more...
> I have to think about that... Its much more for only that it can read blacks better.
> Tomorrow or at least friday my Spyder4Express will arrive so that i can test it.
> Does anyone have a comparison between the two devices?
> If i would need the ambient light feature or the projector calibration i would say the 50€ is well spended. But only for a better reading result of the black level?...


...Never said it only reads black levels better. It's an all-around better device that has more accuracy, less sample variance, is much faster, might be easier to mount (monitor / projector), etc...


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smokerings*
> 
> I haven't been paying much attention to hardware the past couple of years until I just did my new build last month, which I'm still working on. (We are never done are we?)
> Your CPU and motherboard would handle that card fine, like I said you might get more fps with something like an i5 4670k but that means having to just spend more and more.
> 
> From what I've read myself, with a FX Series AMD and 290x, I would be going to something in the 750w range or even higher as I like to overclock and stress test my rig.
> I'm not quite sure on what PSUs are being recommended these days but I'm going to have to read into it myself as I'm looking at adding a 2nd GTX 670 2gb and I don't think my Corsair 520HX would be happy with that.
> 
> Your 550w might run the system fine, I just see numbers all over the place and have no real world experience.
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7457/the-radeon-r9-290x-review/19
> Total system load of 400~ watts running furmark and crysis 3 with an i7 4960X at 4.2GHz, that's also not running a heavy load on all the cpu cores either.
> Anyways just ask some people with more experience or have spent more time reading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On your question with the R9 290x version I'd only be looking at models with non reference coolers like the Asus DirectCU II, Gigabyte Windforce and Sapphire Tri-X.
> 
> Keep in mind this is only from browsing hardware forums and reading reviews but the cards run hot, and the stock coolers have to make an absolute ton of noise to keep the temps in a range where it's not just throttling all the time.
> 
> I'd say do a few searches around the PSU and Video card forums and soak some more info up yourself.
> 
> Sorry if I wasn't much help, just trying to point you in the direction I'd go.


Thank you man! Yeah I created a submission on buildapc subreddit, I got one gtx 760 recommendation but I don't think that i'm going to roll with that. It should be current tier so I don't have to worry about a new card for a couple of years.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> ...Never said it only reads black levels better. It's an all-around better device that has more accuracy, less sample variance, is much faster, might be easier to mount (monitor / projector), etc...


Hm... Maybe i order a Colormunki too and do a comparison between them if noone has something similar.
It's just that 50€ is much money for what it offers.
As some people say, the Spyder 4 Sensor give them very good results, and that the worst thing of the Spyder 4 is the software and not the hardware.
It would be nice if there would be a comparison between them if both devices are used with Argyll.
With Argyll the Spyder4Express seems to outperform a Spyder4Elite, because the software is very bad.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Hm... Maybe i order a Colormunki too and do a comparison between them if noone has something similar.
> It's just that 50€ is much money for what it offers.
> As some people say, the Spyder 4 Sensor give them very good results, and that the worst thing of the Spyder 4 is the software and not the hardware.
> It would be nice if there would be a comparison between them if both devices are used with Argyll.
> With Argyll the Spyder4Express seems to outperform a Spyder4Elite, because the software is very bad.


I have the Spyder4Express and I guess I'll be doing such a test. I've got vital uses for measuring blacks properly (mobile phone contrast ratio numbers) so the Colormunki Display is justified just for that, forget about any other differences in accuracy. Plus, it's faster.


----------



## ktrizzle

Hello all I as of today I have joined the qnix monitor club. I just received mines today. It is tempered glass cause I wanted the apple display looks. I ordered mines from Green-Sum and boy did it come fast. He shipped it out Monday via UPS and I went to run errands the UPS left it at my door steps. Luckily these construction workers didn't see or else we'll be looking for crooks who took it. I didn't have to pay for custom fees. I took a few pictures unwrapping. They did a nice job with packing. They packed extra bubble wrapping inside to no kind of pressure would damage the monitor. I would highly recommend buying from green-sum. I wanted to test pixels and backlight bleeding. Do i just put a black background or is there some kind or program that runs and I just stare? thanks alot guys next thing i would want to do is overclock this badboy. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktrizzle*
> 
> I wanted to test pixels and backlight bleeding. Do i just put a black background or is there some kind or program that runs and I just stare?


Check the first page of the thread on how to look for BLB (How to properly take pictures of your backlight bleed). Don't get confused with the IPS/PLS glare. Stand about 5ft - 10ft away from the monitor to see it clearly (on a black background). As for the dead pixels, there are small programs you can download to test or check on YouTube videos for Solid background color test.

The colors on the game are great looking!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Well its ~50€ more...
> I have to think about that... Its much more for only that it can read blacks better.
> Tomorrow or at least friday my Spyder4Express will arrive so that i can test it.
> Does anyone have a comparison between the two devices?
> If i would need the ambient light feature or the projector calibration i would say the 50€ is well spended. But only for a better reading result of the black level?...


You don't need the ambient light feature and my Spyder 4 ICC 120hz profiles are some of the most popular in this thread...my spyder 4 has calibrated my screen to as you can see in the picture in the results... to Gamut coverage of 98.6% sRGB with a Gamut volume of 121.8% sRGB....that's a bloody great calibration right there using Argyll and dispcalGUI and my... "blacks look amazing"....the spyder 4 express using Argyll and dispcalGUI is all you need...believe me









Edit also when you set up Argyll and dispcalGUI set it like i have in the picture and check the box's of... "black level drift compensation".. and the other box which says "white level drift compensation" and use the large LUT profile to calibrate...your blacks will look fantastic with NO black crush whatever and your gamma at 96hz or 120hz will be totally corrected...you will NOT be unhappy with your new purchase


----------



## ktrizzle

Holy crap mines perfect. thanks alot


----------



## ktrizzle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> Check the first page of the thread on how to look for BLB (How to properly take pictures of your backlight bleed). Don't get confused with the IPS/PLS glare. Stand about 5ft - 10ft away from the monitor to see it clearly (on a black background). As for the dead pixels, there are small programs you can download to test or check on YouTube videos for Solid background color test.
> 
> The colors on the game are great looking!


perfect perfect


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktrizzle*
> 
> Hello all I as of today I have joined the qnix monitor club. I just received mines today. It is tempered glass cause I wanted the apple display looks. I ordered mines from Green-Sum and boy did it come fast. He shipped it out Monday via UPS and I went to run errands the UPS left it at my door steps. Luckily these construction workers didn't see or else we'll be looking for crooks who took it. I didn't have to pay for custom fees. I took a few pictures unwrapping. They did a nice job with packing. They packed extra bubble wrapping inside to no kind of pressure would damage the monitor. I would highly recommend buying from green-sum. I wanted to test pixels and backlight bleeding. Do i just put a black background or is there some kind or program that runs and I just stare? thanks alot guys next thing i would want to do is overclock this badboy. Any help would be appreciated.


Welcome to the club....go here http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php selct black then Hit F11 on your keyboard turn lights out brightness up...this will show you any BLB....once you have finish that hit F11 again then back and do the red green blue white tests using the full screen F11 key...good luck


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktrizzle*
> 
> perfect perfect


Welcome to the club. Enjoy it. I've had mine a weeks and its fantastic. Hitting 120hz no issues.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

So I've been running the 120Hz test, but all I get is


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> So I've been running the 120Hz test, but all I get is


Strange never seen that before..open up task manager....whats hitting 100% in your CPU?


----------



## Riadon

Backlight bleed looks the same from every angle, right? The bottom corners of my monitor kind of glow on blacks when I am not looking at them from straight on, and this is with all lights turned off. It looks nothing like the backlight bleed shown in the pictures of this thread.

I'm guessing this is IPS glow, or maybe caused by the matte coating somehow? Has anyone else noticed it?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Strange never seen that before..open up task manager....whats hitting 100% in your CPU?


I opened the task manager you can see it on the picture 2 cores are fully used and additionally 2 on like 30%ish the other cores weren't even used. As you can see 14% of my cpu is being used aparrently.
I'm checking again while watching the process list.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Backlight bleed looks the same from every angle, right? The bottom corners of my monitor kind of glow on blacks when I am not looking at them from straight on, and this is with all lights turned off. It looks nothing like the backlight bleed shown in the pictures of this thread.
> 
> I'm guessing this is IPS glow, or maybe caused by the matte coating somehow? Has anyone else noticed it?


Sound like Glow...if you can move around and look at different angles while keeping your eyes at one place on your screen where its glowing and it goes or gets darker its just glow...move from side to side up and down looking at the same place...if it goes or gets darker again then its just glow


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> So I've been running the 120Hz test, but all I get is
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Try not running full screen. Run it in a smaller window. Also are you running multiple monitors?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

So apparently firefox is having issues with this site, I used chrome and everything went fine. I reached 120 hz with this monitor and didn't try to get further, but I'll use it on 60 hz until I fix this green flickering its so annoying -.-. I'll try to clean the dust off it if its still flickering I'm just going to buy a shapphire r9 290.

Edit: It also displayed that firefox was having issues and I should try chrome instead.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Sound like Glow...if you can move around and look at different angles while keeping your eyes at one place on your screen where its glowing and it goes or gets darker its just glow...move from side to side up and down looking at the same place...if it goes or gets darker again then its just glow


Yeah I am pretty sure it isn't BLB. Do you have any glow?

I haven't heard many people mention it, so I guess it is stronger in some monitors than others. I mean, it isn't that bad, but it does obscure a bit of detail in dark games.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Yeah I am pretty sure it isn't BLB. Do you have any glow?
> 
> I haven't heard many people mention it, so I guess it is stronger in some monitors than others. I mean, it isn't that bad, but it does obscure a bit of detail in dark games.


Yeah I've the same issues, I've literally 0 BLB like really 0, but the PLS glow is noticeable..


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Yeah I am pretty sure it isn't BLB. Do you have any glow?
> 
> I haven't heard many people mention it, so I guess it is stronger in some monitors than others. I mean, it isn't that bad, but it does obscure a bit of detail in dark games.


Every screen has glow because there is a light behind the screen lighting up the screen so you can see whats on it lol.....of course the lighting up of black is the biggest challenge for lcd screen makers however with the advancement of IPS and PLS tecnoligey over TN screens the blacks just keep getting better....even more so when you can keep the light behind the screen as opposed in infront of it with back light bleed....turn the lights out get your head at the about the hight of your monitor turn your brightness full up and walk back 5 -6 feet from it and should look like this.

Edit: when you say this....but it does obscure a bit of detail in dark games"...i believe that is most probably some BLB on your screen...my blacks in my games look perfect..


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey Lawson one question can I use your colour calbiration profile even without 120 hz? Or would it make my current picture worse in 60 hz.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Hey Lawson one question can I use your colour calbiration profile even without 120 hz? Or would it make my current picture worse in 60 hz.


A 120hz profile on a 60hz wont damage your screen in anyway...however the screen would look awful as it would be way to bright with a 120hz ICC profile because of the gamma adjustments that need to be corrected at 120hz


----------



## nms43

Just got mine today from dream-seller. I went with the perfect pixel to be safe: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/221233250459?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338287809b

All pixels perfect. Such a killer deal.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Every screen has glow because there is a light behind the screen lighting up the screen so you can see whats on it lol.....of course the lighting up of black is the biggest challenge for lcd screen makers however with the advancement of IPS and PLS tecnoligey over TN screens the blacks just keep getting better....even more so when you can keep the light behind the screen as opposed in infront of it with back light bleed....turn the lights out get your head at the about the hight of your monitor turn your brightness full up and walk back 5 -6 feet from it and should look like this.
> 
> Edit: when you say this....but it does obscure a bit of detail in dark games"...i believe that is most probably some BLB on your screen...my blacks in my games look perfect..


It only obscures detail in the bottom corners because those are the only parts effected by the glow at this angle, the blacks are fine otherwise. If I shift a bit, the glow on the bottom corners goes away and reappears in the top corners. I would think it was backlight bleed if it didn't completely disappear at direct angles and was more opaque.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> It only obscures detail in the bottom corners because those are the only parts effected by the glow at this angle, the blacks are fine otherwise. If I shift a bit, the glow on the bottom corners goes away and reappears in the top corners. I would think it was backlight bleed if it didn't completely disappear at direct angles and was more opaque.


Yeah sound ok to me then...you cant really miss BLB it does not go away at what ever angle you look at it and its a WHITE light on top of a black background..



BLB



NO BLB


----------



## nms43

So what's the easiest way to OC this thing?

Do I have to download additional software utilities? I'm using a 6450 so running catalyst control center. No gaming on this machine but I'm curious to try OC to 96hz for movies since 96 is an even multiple of the 24 fps movie rate.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nms43*
> 
> So what's the easiest way to OC this thing?
> 
> Do I have to download additional software utilities? I'm using a 6450 so running catalyst control center. No gaming on this machine but I'm curious to try OC to 96hz for movies since 96 is an even multiple of the 24 fps movie rate.


You can find the links to the tools you need in the OP


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nms43*
> 
> So what's the easiest way to OC this thing?
> 
> Do I have to download additional software utilities? I'm using a 6450 so running catalyst control center. No gaming on this machine but I'm curious to try OC to 96hz for movies since 96 is an even multiple of the 24 fps movie rate.


Everything is on the frontpage really, pretty good explained.


----------



## Watagump

I was looking through the list of owners and see quite a lot listed with the Glossy, with a price of 298 or so paid. When looking at ebay, I get the glossy come up and they are all the perfect pixel option. These are almost $700, where did people find a glossy for under $300. These are the Qnix ones.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I was looking through the list of owners and see quite a lot listed with the Glossy, with a price of 298 or so paid. When looking at ebay, I get the glossy come up and they are all the perfect pixel option. These are almost $700, where did people find a glossy for under $300. These are the Qnix ones.


Tempered glass is the same as the glossy one look after "Tempered Glass Qnix" and you will find the cheap ones that's what I got from assessorieswhole.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Tempered glass is the same as the glossy one look after "Tempered Glass Qnix" and you will find the cheap ones that's what I got from assessorieswhole.


I kept seeing the Monex come up under $300 with Glossy in the search, thanks for the link.


----------



## Fiduciary

Finally got my X-Star through customs! Zero dead/stuck pixels, and honestly the BLB is pretty minor, I really don't mind it at all. Haven't OC'd yet but I'm one happy camper so far. =D


----------



## smokerings

So I'm assuming I should pick one up tomorrow for $250 canadian + a few PSUs?









At least I'll get to see it first hand before I buy.
What should I be looking out for when I view the panel?

I'll have to report back tomorrow once I get it home, the claim of no dead pixels and minimal backlight bleed makes me feel a bit better about driving to pick it up.


----------



## Watagump

Has it been confirmed the tempered glass panel has the same image quality as the glossy, since you can buy one or the other.


----------



## Jetlitheone

So I found out the monitor is a huge dud. I'm upset but stuff happens. Waiting to hear from accessorieswhole.

So mad I used the box I got it in to ship my last one to squaretrade lmao.

Anyways, the monitor had like white noise where those bars where. When I went real close I could see it so it was a big defect. I'm sure it's rare but just a heads up.

I'm sure things will work out I'm just not gonna use my PC since my OCD would kill me haha.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Has it been confirmed the tempered glass panel has the same image quality as the glossy, since you can buy one or the other.


It does not. Tempered glass is glass over matte display. Glossy is fully glossy.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> It does not. Tempered glass is glass over matte display. Glossy is fully glossy.


Well that's kind of a deal breaker, I already have a matte screen, been looking at glossy.


----------



## Kold

Glossy can get annoying really quickly. However..it is quite vibrant. I almost went glossy, but didn't want to deal with dust under the screen and the glare issues.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Glossy can get annoying really quickly. However..it is quite vibrant. I almost went glossy, but didn't want to deal with dust under the screen and the glare issues.


Yeah its a catch 22 sadly.

Also these are fairly easy to take apart but honestly its also fairly easy to warp or have something mess up on it cause these panels are so damn cheap on the inside. Which is fine but yeah. Definitely not top notch besides the panel itself. Lol and that's a- but if you have just dead pixels be worthy as that's the least you can get with these. I've had 2 so far, one with dust and a huge blue cast on one side and this one now with some white noise on the top right. So yeah count your "blessings" I'm going to keep you guys updated on what accessorieswhole does as well.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> It does not. Tempered glass is glass over matte display. Glossy is fully glossy.


Oh really? I asked assessorieswhole and he told me that it's the same as glossy.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Oh really? I asked assessorieswhole and he told me that it's the same as glossy.


Well that's a lie.. lol ask others who have gotten the tempered glass one and took it apart.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Well that's a lie.. lol ask others who have gotten the tempered glass one and took it apart.


Damn god bless that I decided against a tempered glass monitor then...how is your return request working is he communicating?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Oh really? I asked assessorieswhole and he told me that it's the same as glossy.


Earlier in the thread I've read that there used to be a glossy (not the tempered glass glossy). More recently it looks like there are no more true glossy monitors, and that the tempered glass monitors are tempered glass over matte.

I am pretty sure that way way earlier in the thread I read about people getting true glossy, and also some glossy under tempered glass, but I could be wrong.

I believe one of the sellers explained that everything has gone matte now.

This is all from memory and hearsay, so a lot of it could be incorrect.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Damn god bless that I decided against a tempered glass monitor then...how is your return request working is he communicating?


Yes, but hes trying to issues a "partial refund"









trying anything he can to not give me my money back.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Yeah its a catch 22 sadly.
> 
> Also these are fairly easy to take apart but honestly its also fairly easy to warp or have something mess up on it cause these panels are so damn cheap on the inside. Which is fine but yeah. Definitely not top notch besides the panel itself. Lol and that's a- but if you have just dead pixels be worthy as that's the least you can get with these. I've had 2 so far, one with dust and a huge blue cast on one side and this one now with some white noise on the top right. So yeah count your "blessings" I'm going to keep you guys updated on what accessorieswhole does as well.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


Sorry about your bad luck bro,mine seems quite perfect actually no dead pixels and i really dont see any BLB problems beautiful monitor in all


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> After using ArgyllCMS i get almost the same black level enhancement but it does seem to be a bit better in certain areas. I am going to be stuck doing this on all my monitors for the rest of the day now testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You learn something every day


Ok after lots of testing i can take two Qnix monitors(both TRUE glossy







) side by side i have gotten 120hz looking identical to 60hz. Using my spider4 combined with ArgyllCMS i was able to get it very close to the stock frequency colors but it just seemed that the picture was sightly washed out or "dull" compared to the 60hz profile. I thought the contrast was low or a bit off but that caused more distortion with black and white levels when adjusting it. I ended up trying the NVCP "digital Vibrance" setting (which isn't exactly contrast but related) and just adding about +7 or %7 did the trick. Now both calibrated monitors one being at 60hz and the other being at 120hz look virtually identical.

It seems with the darkening of the picture you also lose a bit of per pixel brightness so raising just the gamma gets you the overall brightness but at the expense of a slightly dulled or washed out picture. The calibrator worked perfectly to adjust all the color and gamma offsets, ArgyllCMS seemed to correct the black levels that the spyder4 was missing (i don't think the guys over at DataColor had overclocking in mind when developing this device), and lastly to up the actual pixel color brightness using NVCP's digital vibrance seemed to do the trick(even making blacks a bit better).

I tested about 10 different games side by side with 60hz and 120hz and they all had indistinguishable color, brightness, and saturation. I also used about 10 different still images for comparison. Comparing the two monitors i can't see any reason to push for any further calibration experimentation. Now this may very from panel to panel slightly but it stands to reason that others using the spyder4 will have very similar results.

Bottom line spyder4 + ArgyllCMS + 5-10% digital vibrance = 60hz calibration level colors


----------



## ktrizzle

can someone help me out? i used the cru and created a 120 file, updated the patch driver and restarted my computer. Went into the nvidia control panel and selected the 120hz. After that I did the test at http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping all im getting is 60fps and 60hz @ google chrome. am I doing soemthing wrong here?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktrizzle*
> 
> can someone help me out? i used the cru and created a 120 file, updated the patch driver and restarted my computer. Went into the nvidia control panel and selected the 120hz. After that I did the test at http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping all im getting is 60fps and 60hz @ google chrome. am I doing soemthing wrong here?


1. Check if the screen gets darker when 120hz is selected vs 60hz
2. make sure all secondary monitors are disabled when running this test
3. Do not have have the browser maximized when testing.
4. move the mouse around in a circle and see if the cursor movement is "smoother"
5. Make sure your 120hz profile is still selected after closing and reopening the NVCP.


----------



## Fiduciary

Seems like I got extra lucky, I can hit 120Hz no problem with the stock cable. I have another from Monoprice on the way, guess I won't need it though. Chalk up another good one from Dreamseller.







Loaded up a colour profile and it looks great.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Ok after lots of testing i can take two Qnix monitors(both TRUE glossy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) side by side i have gotten 120hz looking identical to 60hz. Using my spider4 combined with ArgyllCMS i was able to get it very close to the stock frequency colors but it just seemed that the picture was sightly washed out or "dull" compared to the 60hz profile. I thought the contrast was low or a bit off but that caused more distortion with black and white levels when adjusting it. I ended up trying the NVCP "digital Vibrance" setting (which isn't exactly contrast but related) and just adding about +7 or %7 did the trick. Now both calibrated monitors one being at 60hz and the other being at 120hz look virtually identical.
> 
> It seems with the darkening of the picture you also lose a bit of per pixel brightness so raising just the gamma gets you the overall brightness but at the expense of a slightly dulled or washed out picture. The calibrator worked perfectly to adjust all the color and gamma offsets, ArgyllCMS seemed to correct the black levels that the spyder4 was missing (i don't think the guys over at DataColor had overclocking in mind when developing this device), and lastly to up the actual pixel color brightness using NVCP's digital vibrance seemed to do the trick(even making blacks a bit better).
> 
> I tested about 10 different games side by side with 60hz and 120hz and they all had indistinguishable color, brightness, and saturation. I also used about 10 different still images for comparison. Comparing the two monitors i can't see any reason to push for any further calibration experimentation. Now this may very from panel to panel slightly but it stands to reason that others using the spyder4 will have very similar results.
> 
> Bottom line spyder4 + ArgyllCMS + 5-10% digital vibrance = 60hz calibration level colors


Spartan i don't know how you are loading your ICC profile at windows login...however if you are applying your profile using windows color management then i suggest you don't...i have found window color management does not load the profiles as well as only using the the dispcalGUI profile loader...at 120hz on some web pages my whites would seem sightly transparent using one of my 120hz ICC profiles that the spider 4 software made.....and even one the profile i made with dispcal was the same letting windows color management control the profiles.

However loading the profiles using dispcalGUI profile loader and not windows color management makes a big difference to the quality and colours of the profile...the white that where slightly transparent 120hz are not any more...and the quality of the Argyll and dispcalGUI profiles over the spider 4 pro software is huge..

Before using a particular ICC loader, you should understand that some tools set only the calibration curves (e.g. xcalib), other tools set only the display profile to X.org _ICC_PROFILE atom (e.g. xicc) and other tools do both tasks at once (e.g. dispwin, dispcalGUI-apply-profiles).

Edit: i highly recommend doing the large LUT profile selecting the white level and black lever drift calibration...it took me 3.5 hours to complete but the resulting ICC profile the colours are amazing and the including the black and white

I just added 7% to the the NVCP "digital Vibrance" also...the screen looks fantastic!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Has anyone ordered any of the Monex panels to see what they are like exactly? Because they are incredibly cheap and are advertised as being glossy (not tempered glass). They are as cheap as 269.98 on ebay right now.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Spartan i don't know how you are loading your ICC profile at windows login...however if you are applying your profile using windows color management then i suggest you don't...i have found window color management does not load the profiles as well as only using the the dispcalGUI profile loader...at 120hz on some web pages my whites would seem sightly transparent using one of my 120hz ICC profiles that the spider 4 software made.....and even one the profile i made with dispcal was the same letting windows color management control the profiles.
> 
> However loading the profiles using dispcalGUI profile loader and not windows color management makes a big difference to the quality and colours of the profile...the white that where slightly transparent 120hz are not any more...and the quality over the Argyll and dispcalGUI profiles over the spider 4 pro software is huge..
> 
> Before using a particular ICC loader, you should understand that some tools set only the calibration curves (e.g. xcalib), other tools set only the display profile to X.org _ICC_PROFILE atom (e.g. xicc) and other tools do both tasks at once (e.g. dispwin, dispcalGUI-apply-profiles).
> 
> Edit: i highly recommend doing the large LUT profile selecting the white level and black lever drift calibration...it took me 3.5 hours to complete but the resulting ICC profile the colours are amazing and the including the black and white
> 
> I just added 7% to the the NVCP "digital Vibrance" also...the screen looks fantastic!


How else can you load an icc profile?

Also once I get a new monitor I might buy a colorimeter or spectrometer as I am a photographer on the side.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Also anyone deal with bad monitors?

Accessorieswhole keeps telling me he wants to give me a partial refund. Which I do not want I want a full one. What should I do?

It's getting aggravating cause every reply is that..


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Spartan i don't know how you are loading your ICC profile at windows login...however if you are applying your profile using windows color management then i suggest you don't...i have found window color management does not load the profiles as well as only using the the dispcalGUI profile loader...at 120hz on some web pages my whites would seem sightly transparent using one of my 120hz ICC profiles that the spider 4 software made.....and even one the profile i made with dispcal was the same letting windows color management control the profiles.
> 
> However loading the profiles using dispcalGUI profile loader and not windows color management makes a big difference to the quality and colours of the profile...the white that where slightly transparent 120hz are not any more...and the quality over the Argyll and dispcalGUI profiles over the spider 4 pro software is huge..
> 
> Before using a particular ICC loader, you should understand that some tools set only the calibration curves (e.g. xcalib), other tools set only the display profile to X.org _ICC_PROFILE atom (e.g. xicc) and other tools do both tasks at once (e.g. dispwin, dispcalGUI-apply-profiles).
> 
> Edit: i highly recommend doing the large LUT profile selecting the white level and black lever drift calibration...it took me 3.5 hours to complete but the resulting ICC profile the colours are amazing and the including the black and white


I use dispcalGUI and have recommended it several times in past posts. I also do drift calibration but usually do not mention it to not overwhelm entry level users from trying calibration(after they get the basics i will advise it). My colors do look amazing even when comparing to some of our design specialists monitors at my work. Thank you for trying to help.


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Also anyone deal with bad monitors?
> 
> Accessorieswhole keeps telling me he wants to give me a partial refund. Which I do not want I want a full one. What should I do?
> 
> It's getting aggravating cause every reply is that..


No experience, but my plan if I received a dud (and the seller wouldn't fix it) was to buy a SquareTrade warranty and consider the $50 a sunk cost, then let SquareTrade deal with the seller.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> How else can you load an icc profile?
> 
> Also once I get a new monitor I might buy a colorimeter or spectrometer as I am a photographer on the side.
> 
> Any suggestions?


There are many tools to apply load ICC profiles...Color profile keeper...windows color management....the Spyder 4 software has a loader also....however of coarse you only need one loader running...i would highly recommend the profile loader that comes with dispcal .....

About getting a colorimeter i would get the Spyder 4 express because its cheap and the device has the same color patches as the Pro and Elite version.....oh and trash the CD/Software that comes with it and use it with Argyll and dispcalGUI


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> There are many tools to apply load ICC profiles...Color profile keeper...windows color management....the Spyder 4 software has a loader also....however of coarse you only need one loader running...i would highly recommend the profile loader that comes with dispcal .....
> 
> About getting a colorimeter i would get the Spyder 4 express because its cheap and the device has the same color patches as the Pro and Elite version.....oh and trash the CD/Software that comes with it and use it with Argyll and dispcalGUI


Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> No experience, but my plan if I received a dud (and the seller wouldn't fix it) was to buy a SquareTrade warranty and consider the $50 a sunk cost, then let SquareTrade deal with the seller.


Actually not a bad idea, if things dont work out I might just do that and wait it out so it doesnt seem like I bought the warranty on a predetermined damaged product lol.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> There are many tools to apply load ICC profiles...Color profile keeper...windows color management....the Spyder 4 software has a loader also....however of coarse you only need one loader running...i would highly recommend the profile loader that comes with dispcal .....
> 
> About getting a colorimeter i would get the Spyder 4 express because its cheap and the device has the same color patches as the Pro and Elite version.....oh and trash the CD/Software that comes with it and use it with Argyll and dispcalGUI


Is it possible to load profiles for multiple monitors at once with dispcal?
I will receive my Spyder4Express tomorrow so it can be a good time over the weekend to make a very good profile.
As i heard its not possible to have different profiles for multiple monitors with the stock express software.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Is it possible to load profiles for multiple monitors at once with dispcal?
> I will receive my Spyder4Express tomorrow so it can be a good time over the weekend to make a very good profile.
> As i heard its not possible to have different profiles for multiple monitors with the stock express software.


Yes dispcal can load profiles to multiple monitors....more information here http://sourceforge.net/p/dispcalgui/discussion/?source=navbar

As i heard its not possible to have different profiles for multiple monitors with the stock express software......i don't believe there would be a problem with that using dispcal as that would be a limatation to the express software which you wont need.....dispcals profile loader will take care of loading to both the monitors









If any wants to try my 120hz ICC profile I made with Argyll and dispcalGUI feel free to use...
The calibration was preformed at 200 CD/M about 18 clicks up from a black screen...also try as Spartan suggested adding though NVCP + 7 on digital vibrance it really just adds a finishing touch to the profile i think









Nativedispcal120hz200cdm.zip 11k .zip file


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

So I decided to get a sapphire tri-x oc r9 290, is there a difference between the Battelfield edition and the nromal edition?


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> So I decided to get a sapphire tri-x oc r9 290, is there a difference between the Battelfield edition and the nromal edition?


I think the Battlefield edition includes BF4.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> I think the Battlefield edition includes BF4.


No technical difference? I heard something about the cooling is different in the battelfield edition but I'm not sure can't find it via google.


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> No technical difference? I heard something about the cooling is different in the battelfield edition but I'm not sure can't find it via google.


Oh, that'd be the first I ever heard about that. I looked at those cards when I built my PC a month ago, but back then I don't think you could even buy the non-battlefield edition. Ended up getting a 780 Ti myself, but that was partially because the non-reference 290X's weren't out (or not at a reasonable price).


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> Oh, that'd be the first I ever heard about that. I looked at those cards when I built my PC a month ago, but back then I don't think you could even buy the non-battlefield edition. Ended up getting a 780 Ti myself, but that was partially because the non-reference 290X's weren't out (or not at a reasonable price).


Hm yeah. I was also thinking to get the 290x, but the difference doesn't seem worth it for the additional money.


----------



## hammelgammler

I have a question about dispcal.
Theres a points called testchart file. Which one i have to choose to achieve the best results when calibrating?
The last options are "massive testcharts", are there better then the other ones?
Sounds logic to me...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I have a question about dispcal.
> Theres a points called testchart file. Which one i have to choose to achieve the best results when calibrating?
> The last options are "massive testcharts", are there better then the other ones?
> Sounds logic to me...


You don't need massive...its just to massive and will take forever...i used the large LUT and ticked... "check white and black level drift compenasion boxs" and it took 3.5 hours....massive would be well over 5 hours i would of thought

However if you don't mind that amount of time try it...but please share your resulting profile i would be interested to see what if any difference there was from the large LUT...i would of thought there would be little to no difference from a calibration that took 3.5 hours to one that took 5 hours..

Heres my 3.5 hour 120HZ 200 cd/m large LUT profile


[ATTACH=20830][/ATTACH][URL=htt...Nativedispcal120hz200cdm.zip 11k .zip file


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Hm yeah. I was also thinking to get the 290x, but the difference doesn't seem worth it for the additional money.


To be accurate I was more looking at the non-reference 290's as well. First I decided on a 280X, then the price shot up, so I looked at 770's...then I wanted a 290, but they were super loud, so I started looking at 780's...then I saw the jacked-up prices on the non-reference cards that were coming out because of LiteCoin mining so when I saw a great pre-boxing day sale (I'm Canadian) on a reference 780Ti I just jumped right in and decided to go top-tier.

Bottom line, the non-reference 290's and 290X's are very nice cards.


----------



## Naebic

⠀


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fiduciary*
> 
> To be accurate I was more looking at the non-reference 290's as well. First I decided on a 280X, then the price shot up, so I looked at 770's...then I wanted a 290, but they were super loud, so I started looking at 780's...then I saw the jacked-up prices on the non-reference cards that were coming out because of LiteCoin mining so when I saw a great pre-boxing day sale (I'm Canadian) on a reference 780Ti I just jumped right in and decided to go top-tier.
> 
> Bottom line, the non-reference 290's and 290X's are very nice cards.


Ah okay, nice. Yeah I think im going to get the sapphire 290.

So I was looking for a stand in my location and found this one this should fit on the QNIX right?


----------



## smokerings

I just got back from picking up my Qnix 2710 evo II glossy!

I have to say walking in to the room it was setup in was a but underwhelming as it was set up next to a seiki 39" 3840x2160 panel!
The panel looked great though with no discernible dead pixels and minimal back-light bleed.

Once I got home though and put it on my desk next to my 22" 1680x1050 eIPS Dell 2009wa it had a lot more impact.









So now I'm going to delve into the thread and research about running it at a higher refresh rate with my GTX 670 2gb.

Also going to look into a monitor arm to mount this monitor on, and maybe one that could also take my 2209wa.

The stand on this monitor is garbage.









It has a beautiful picture though!


----------



## chestnuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Ah okay, nice. Yeah I think im going to get the sapphire 290.
> 
> So I was looking for a stand in my location and found this one this should fit on the QNIX right?


Why not 780? They're much better, run quieter and cooler, also have better performance in similar price range


----------



## WoOkiE FTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chestnuts*
> 
> Why not 780? They're much better, run quieter and cooler, also have better performance in similar price range


Probably for the vram. And it's not a ref cooler if he's getting the tri-x. They're not that loud from what I've seen. Plus maybe just wants the mantle support if it takes off.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

So CRU doesn't work for AMD 14.1 beta, can't find the pixel settings for DVI/HDMi ?

I mean the pixel clock patcher that is..

edit: nvm found the newest ver that works.


----------



## outsider7p

From what I've heard they are nicely built and the seller I saw advertising them said 0-1 pixels and they were great panels, take what you will from that. But they do not Overclock unfortunately.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

SO about the green pixel flickering issue that I have, I just found out that it only appears on one side of the display. It's like begining from the far right to the middle and on the other site it doesn't flicker. Is that information useful to find the problem?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> SO about the green pixel flickering issue that I have, I just found out that it only appears on one side of the display. It's like begining from the far right to the middle and on the other site it doesn't flicker. Is that information useful to find the problem?


only when over clocking right?

You have to set your timings as low as possible in nvidia cru. If it doesn't work still your monitor just can't over clock perfectly which happens sometimes.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> only when over clocking right?
> 
> You have to set your timings as low as possible in nvidia cru. If it doesn't work still your monitor just can't over clock perfectly which happens sometimes.


I guess you mean amd cru in my case since im using a amd gpu. Yeah, but the thing is I had that problem on my old 23" tn monitor and it appeared on 60hz now it appears on this monitor at 90+ hz


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So apparently according to ebay seller Bigclothcraft the Monex panel is a Qnix/X-Star panel with different parts and real glossy (not tempered glass) coating. I didn't ask him if it overclocks because I assume it does (same panel with DVI-D bypass I assume would), but assuming it does at 269.98 it is easily the best bang for your buck of these monitors.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Wth are these vertical lines I have on the screen? Noticed them a few days ago and they are pretty annoying.
> 
> Also pretty horrid BLB so hopefully fix that tomorrow.


Just quoting myself here.

Tried to fix this by bending the frame now, no tape applied.
I think the lines are a bit dimmer now but still not fixed...

Think I'll just ask for warranty propably...

Picture in a few minutes.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> I guess you mean amd cru in my case since im using a amd gpu. Yeah, but the thing is I had that problem on my old 23" tn monitor and it appeared on 60hz now it appears on this monitor at 90+ hz


monitor can't handle it than :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Just quoting myself here.
> 
> Tried to fix this by bending the frame now, no tape applied.
> I think the lines are a bit dimmer now but still not fixed...
> 
> Think I'll just ask for warranty propably...
> 
> Picture in a few minutes.


yeha I had that which I'm sure you seen. It is the panel itself that's causing it. Never went away for me and my frame was nearly perfectly straight... Trying to get a replacement but accessorieswhole I'd being a joke.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> monitor can't handle it than :/
> yeha I had that which I'm sure you seen. It is the panel itself that's causing it. Never went away for me and my frame was nearly perfectly straight... Trying to get a replacement but accessorieswhole I'd being a joke.


I don't think that is the monitor I'm pretty sure it's the gpu if not the driver I'm installing the beta driver If that doesn't work I'll test it with the incoming r9 290. I don't think that it is the monitors issue, because I had the same issue on another monitor NOT this brand. And my gpu is also running at like 78° in games so it's possible that it's starting to die.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> I don't think that is the monitor I'm pretty sure it's the gpu if not the driver I'm installing the beta driver If that doesn't work I'll test it with the incoming r9 290. I don't think that it is the monitors issue, because I had the same issue on another monitor NOT this brand. And my gpu is also running at like 78° in games so it's possible that it's starting to die.


true AMD GPUs have to be more powerful to oc as opposed to nvidia it seems.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> monitor can't handle it than :/
> yeha I had that which I'm sure you seen. It is the panel itself that's causing it. Never went away for me and my frame was nearly perfectly straight... Trying to get a replacement but accessorieswhole I'd being a joke.


You could be right as they would randomly appear/disappear when I was moving the panel at my hands when I tested it after straightening the frame.


----------



## franz18

Hi,
I'm new here, and I'm planing to buy Qnix qx2710 PLS Evolution II -simply model with DVI port.
I just end reading posts from last half year and I'm geting that it's recommended to:

1. Buy Qnix from "accessorieswhole" from eBay
2. Choose Perfect Pixel - for further reclamation issiues if bad pixels appear on my Qnix
3. I need to stay possitive and hoping that mine will be just fine as Yours

I'm thinking about buying this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111088789065

Also found something like this:

http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html

Please, tell me which one is better offer, or maybe You guys can show me some better offer. It will be first time that I'm gona buy something on eBay so if You can tell me what not to make wrong









Ps. I got gigabyte gtx 770 OC Windforce x3 2gb so i think it will be good enough GPU to play in DayZ, Arma 2 & 3 along with that sweeeet Qnix.

Sorry for my english if it's that bad.

Thanks, Bya


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> monitor can't handle it than :/
> yeha I had that which I'm sure you seen. It is the panel itself that's causing it. Never went away for me and my frame was nearly perfectly straight... Trying to get a replacement but accessorieswhole I'd being a joke.


Hey man, I'm sorry you got one with problems. Have you ever bought from accessorieswhole before? Would you definitely not recommend them/him anymore?


----------



## playboysmoov

I must say that buying the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II SE was the best decision I have made in a long time.

I was looking to upgrade from my two Dell 2209WA's and I am very impressed with the picture quality out of the box. I will definitely be looking into getting a monitor stand before end of next week as this thing is horrible. The base of the stand came a loose after I screwed it on tight and wobbles every time I press keys on my mechanical keyboard.

I haven't really noticed any dead pixels or BLB......

Can you recommend some decent monitor stands?

I looked at the stickies on the front page and none of HP stands are available on ebay.

Did they change the model of the HP one, as that one looks really nice?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Hey man, I'm sorry you got one with problems. Have you ever bought from accessorieswhole before? Would you definitely not recommend them/him anymore?


Honestly cannot say I wouldn't recommend him but they are definitely stubborn when it comes to returns.


----------



## playboysmoov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *franz18*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm new here, and I'm planing to buy Qnix qx2710 PLS Evolution II -simply model with DVI port.
> I just end reading posts from last half year and I'm geting that it's recommended to:
> 
> 1. Buy Qnix from "accessorieswhole" from eBay
> 2. Choose Perfect Pixel - for further reclamation issiues if bad pixels appear on my Qnix
> 3. I need to stay possitive and hoping that mine will be just fine as Yours
> 
> I'm thinking about buying this one:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111088789065
> 
> Also found something like this:
> 
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html
> 
> Please, tell me which one is better offer, or maybe You guys can show me some better offer. It will be first time that I'm gona buy something on eBay so if You can tell me what not to make wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ps. I got gigabyte gtx 770 OC Windforce x3 2gb so i think it will be good enough GPU to play in DayZ, Arma 2 & 3 along with that sweeeet Qnix.
> 
> Sorry for my english if it's that bad.
> 
> Thanks, Bya


\

I just received my monitor yesterday from AW and set it up tonight. I did not purchase the PP version but did get the square trade warranty.

Save your coins and get the regular version and spend the savings on a square trade warranty....The chances of you getting a claim and the cost of shipping back to Korea will probably put you at half the cost of buying another......

As of right now I can say that I am glad that I did not spend the extra money on the PP version. That money saved is going towards a new stand. This stand sucks donkey (leave the rest to your imagination) Considering that I ordered it during their New Year and it shipped Sunday and I received it Wednesday via UPS......Unbelievable!!!!!!

The chance we take for finding a slick deal.


----------



## skater2k2

Can anyone help me with my monitor. I recieved it yesterday and noticed no dead pixels or BLB. But I noticed only on the left side some strange darker lines:



Its a bit anoying. Maybe anyone have some tips to solve this issue.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skater2k2*
> 
> Can anyone help me with my monitor. I recieved it yesterday and noticed no dead pixels or BLB. But I noticed only on the left side some strange darker lines:
> 
> 
> 
> Its a bit anoying. Maybe anyone have some tips to solve this issue.


sounds like the PCB that controls the backlight is damaged or the backlight just isn't even. I had the same issue except it looked a little different.


----------



## ktrizzle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 1. Check if the screen gets darker when 120hz is selected vs 60hz
> 2. make sure all secondary monitors are disabled when running this test
> 3. Do not have have the browser maximized when testing.
> 4. move the mouse around in a circle and see if the cursor movement is "smoother"
> 5. Make sure your 120hz profile is still selected after closing and reopening the NVCP.


I hit 120hz play league of legends.







but when i did the test on the website still 60 hz hmmm


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktrizzle*
> 
> I hit 120hz play league of legends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but when i did the test on the website still 60 hz hmmm


League of Legends just displays the fps it is generating, but it doesn't display the monitor fps, that's why you do it on the website to see the actual fps.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *playboysmoov*
> 
> I must say that buying the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II SE was the best decision I have made in a long time.
> 
> I was looking to upgrade from my two Dell 2209WA's and I am very impressed with the picture quality out of the box. I will definitely be looking into getting a monitor stand before end of next week as this thing is horrible. The base of the stand came a loose after I screwed it on tight and wobbles every time I press keys on my mechanical keyboard.
> 
> I haven't really noticed any dead pixels or BLB......
> 
> Can you recommend some decent monitor stands?
> 
> I looked at the stickies on the front page and none of HP stands are available on ebay.
> 
> Did they change the model of the HP one, as that one looks really nice?


Monitor Stands are on the Front Page.


----------



## Harmonic

Hi guys, I'd thought I'd chip in now as there seem to be quite a few people buying from AW. Thanks to everyone for posting info it was pretty helpful!

I ordered mine over the Chinese New Year and it was delivered nice and quick, I picked it up on Wednesday. I want to add I don't have any pictures as I was actually quite eager to open it up.

Anyway after I plugged it all in the first thing I noticed was quite a large area of what I first assumed was dead pixels, this area was about 15/15 but like a cloud shape. Anyway upon further inspection they didn't look like dead pixels but it was just a cloudy grey cluster. So yesterday I opened it all up, thought I'd have a look and straighten the frame at the same time, I lifted off the top layer when I got down there and it looked like a grain of salt maybe had been crushed underneath the top layer! There was **** in quite a big area but it was mostly powder around the outside and a few solid bits in the middle. I had a can of air so I used that although the actual grain was on pretty stubborn so I had to wipe that off with a cloth.

I finally cleaned it up as best I could, although it had left an indentation in about 2 of the pixels. Put it all back together and when I turned it on the big cloud had indeed been reduced down to just 2 pixels. They are not dead, they just look cloudy.

I do however have another problem (bad times!), I have a blue vertical line down the screen towards the left hand side, when I'm at 60Hz or even 75Hz it is barely noticeable, however when I up that tot 96 or 120 it becomes very prominent.

Honestly I'd much rather put up with these problems than mess about getting a refund.

I haven't had a chance to properly mess about with it yet though so I'll do that at the weekend, tweak some settings and give it a good test run!

If anyone has any ideas about this blue line that might be worth trying please let me know!

Reading some other posts it looks like lots of AW monitors are having a few problems so if you are looking to buy it might be worth considering someone else.

Edit: Thought I'd just add the cost, £195 and £45 customs!


----------



## scwasp

Hello everyone. I just received my x-star monitor a few days ago. Was blown away by the colors and image clarity of the screen. However the black level has left me quite dissapointed. So playing dark games or watching movies with a lot of dark scenes is pretty underwhelming.

The reason I'm making this post is because i see people talking about these ICC's. And I'm wondering how much, if any, such an ICC could help improve the black level of the screen. While maintaining the brightness of the colors and white?


----------



## chestnuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Honestly cannot say I wouldn't recommend him but they are definitely stubborn when it comes to returns.


Where are you based? Did you pay any custom charges?


----------



## hammelgammler

Received my Spyder4Express a few hours ago.
I'm away the whole day, so i just checked at dispcal everything on the lowest settings. Calibration speed at low and also a massive lut profile.
All other settings are identical with the one from lawson.
My monitor runs with 96Hz so lets see if i get a very good color profile.


----------



## franz18

I just have one last question before buying...

Is there any difference in one of those two offers or are they the same, but the price in one of it is 10$ higher?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131100343352?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e86307c38

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-2560x1440-PLS-DVI-PC-Monitor-/130989935956?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7f9bcd54

There is difference only in 10$ price or I miss something?

BTW: Both of themhave SquareTrade 3 yr warranty.

Pleas, help me on this sybject and I will buy this monster asap

Thanks from the top, Bya


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scwasp*
> 
> Hello everyone. I just received my x-star monitor a few days ago. Was blown away by the colors and image clarity of the screen. However the black level has left me quite dissapointed. So playing dark games or watching movies with a lot of dark scenes is pretty underwhelming.
> 
> The reason I'm making this post is because i see people talking about these ICC's. And I'm wondering how much, if any, such an ICC could help improve the black level of the screen. While maintaining the brightness of the colors and white?


Hi and welcome,,,,if your asking about why has your screen has gone darker after you have overclocked it to 96hz or 120hz then this normal due to higher Gamma shift at these higher resolutions when overclocking...if this is the case and you do not have another fault with your screen then yes a 120hz ICC profile or if you are running at 96hz ICC profile will completely correct your higher gamma shift and bring your brightness and colors back into line....

Try theses ICC profiles below..to install them into windows remove from them from the zip file dump on the desktop or any place of your choice and right click on them and choose install....use color profile keeper to apply your chosen profile...these ICC profile where calibrated at 200 cd/m brightness which is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button at 120hz and 17 clicks up at 96hz from a black screen

120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Received my Spyder4Express a few hours ago.
> I'm away the whole day, so i just checked at dispcal everything on the lowest settings. Calibration speed at low and also a massive lut profile.
> All other settings are identical with the one from lawson.
> My monitor runs with 96Hz so lets see if i get a very good color profile.


Yay your new Spyder4Express has arrived happy days








I cant wait to have a look at the difference between the large LUT and the massive LUT...and also how long the dam thing takes to calibrate at low speed!....i am thinking over 5 hours...please do let me know and share the resulting ICC thanks


----------



## scwasp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi and welcome,,,,if your asking about why has your screen has gone darker after you have overclocked it to 96hz or 120hz then this normal due to higher Gamma shift at these higher resolutions when overclocking...if this is the case and you do not have another fault with your screen then yes a 120hz ICC profile or if you are running at 96hz ICC profile will completely correct your higher gamma shift and bring your brightness and colors back into line....
> 
> Try theses ICC profiles below..to install them into windows remove from them from the zip file dump on the desktop or any place of your choice and right click on them and choose install....use color profile keeper to apply your chosen profile...these ICC profile where calibrated at 200 cd/m brightness which is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button at 120hz and 17 clicks up at 96hz from a black screen
> 
> 120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file
> 
> 
> CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


Thanks for the reply. But It seems you misunderstood me.

I haven't done any overclocking on it. It's still a 60 hz monitor.

My "problem" is the black level of the monitor. Like all PLS/IPS panels, the black level is not that great. So games with dark levels, or a movie with dark scenes don't look all that great.

I guess in essence, my question boils down to "can i improve the black level through ICC's, while maintaining things like brightness and colors?"


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scwasp*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. But It seems you misunderstood me.
> 
> I haven't done any overclocking on it. It's still a 60 hz monitor.
> 
> My "problem" is the black level of the monitor. Like all PLS/IPS panels, the black level is not that great. So games with dark levels, or a movie with dark scenes don't look all that great.
> 
> I guess in essence, my question boils down to "can i improve the black level through ICC's, while maintaining things like brightness and colors?"


Have you checked for back light bleed?...my blacks look great and very deep even at 120hz with a good ICC calibration...IPS / PLS screens display the best blacks that can be found on an and LCD monitor right now....i think you will only see better blacks on a plasma screen.....maybe you are seeing IPS / PLS Glow but i only ever see this if i turn off all my lights and display a full black screen with the back lights turned right up...try comparing PLS / IPS blacks to a TN panel blacks and you will think your blacks look great...


----------



## scwasp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Have you checked for back light bleed?...my blacks look great and very deep even at 120hz with a good ICC calibration...IPS / PLS screens display the best blacks that can be found on an and LCD monitor right now....i think you will only see better blacks on a plasma screen.


Hmm this kinda contradicts everything I've been able to read about ips/pls panels so far. One of the major drawbacks to those panels seem to be poor black levels and ips glow

That said, I have checked for backlight bleed, and it does have some in 2-3 areas around the screen. But that stuff doesn't seem to be too bad, I can only see it when the screen is pretty much completely black.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scwasp*
> 
> Hmm this kinda contradicts everything I've been able to read about ips/pls panels so far. One of the major drawbacks to those panels seem to be poor black levels and ips glow
> 
> That said, I have checked for backlight bleed, and it does have some in 2-3 areas around the screen. But that stuff doesn't seem to be too bad, I can only see it when the screen is pretty much completely black.


The biggest challenge to any LCD screen manufacturer is displaying blacks....this is because to display anything there has to be lights behind the panel so as you can see what's on the screen and displaying a black screen with a light behind it will course a glow.....IPS /PLS glow...the blacks on my TN panels look really bad compared to my Qnix PLS screen

Edit: turning your brightness down it should help with your glow...an ICC profile calibration would make your blacks look even blacker as intended....but would not help with IPS glow....in a fully blacked out room displaying a maximum brightness fully calibrated black screen i can only imagine it would make it appear worse....the only way to get rid of IPS glow on a black screen would be to turn your monitor off

The History and Technology of LCD and Plasma Screens 2013 in the link below ...also the reason plasma screens display such fantastic blacks is In plasma the phosphors that create the image on the screen light up themselves, and don't require backlighting....i have a 48 inch Panasonic plasma HDTV the picture and colors are beautiful but it cost a lot more to run than any LCD TV

http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2387377,00.asp


----------



## scwasp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The biggest challenge to any LCD screen manufacturer is displaying blacks....this is because to display anything there has to be lights behind the panel so as you can see what's on the screen and displaying a black screen with a light behind it will course a glow.....IPS /PLS glow...the blacks on my TN panels look really bad compared to my Qnix PLS screen
> 
> Edit: *turning your brightness down it should help with your glow...an ICC profile calibration would make your blacks look even blacker as intended*....but would not help with IPS glow....in a fully blacked out room displaying a maximum brightness fully calibrated black screen i can only imagine it would make it appear worse....the only way to get rid of IPS glow on a black screen would be to turn your monitor off
> 
> The History and Technology of LCD and Plasma Screens 2013 in the link below ...also the reason plasma screens display such fantastic blacks is In plasma the phosphors that create the image on the screen light up themselves, and don't require backlighting....i have a 48 inch Panasonic plasma HDTV the picture and colors are beautiful but it cost a lot more to run than any LCD TV
> 
> http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2387377,00.asp


Thanks for helping me out









I have tried to turn my brightness all the way down and up. And there's definitely a change in how black the screen appears. Though minimum brightness appear very black compared to just one or two clicks above minimum brightness. Dunno if that's normal or indicates an issue with the panel? I can try taking some pictures when I get home later. Though the ones I tried taking yesterday made the screen appear much, much brighter than it actually was, so I don't think it's really possible to draw any conclusions from any pictures I might take.


----------



## thanksinadvance

Was messing with my new qnix and got it to overclock to 80. Ran the monitor test and everything is fine. If i try to go higher it won't even give me the option to select it, it only shows up to 80hz under monitor settings. Is this normal if 80 is my max overclock?


----------



## KingsPort

Got my Qnix two days ago and it`s been working like a charm. Also really impressed that I ordered it on last Friday, got a message saying they don`t work on the weekends, but I still got my monitor on Wednesday morning! And that was all free, really impressed.

Cannot seem to find any dead pixels either. Really happy so far, now I just need to get it overclocked.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yay your new Spyder4Express has arrived happy days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant wait to have a look at the difference between the large LUT and the massive LUT...and also how long the dam thing takes to calibrate at low speed!....i am thinking over 5 hours...please do let me know and share the resulting ICC thanks


Of course i will upload my profile when its done.
It may take forever with that settings but who cares.








I want the best profile (for me).


----------



## renji1337

Hi, how can i fix screen uniformity at 120hz. In the top right corner at 120hz at 96hz or 120hz the color gets darker.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thanksinadvance*
> 
> Was messing with my new qnix and got it to overclock to 80. Ran the monitor test and everything is fine. If i try to go higher it won't even give me the option to select it, it only shows up to 80hz under monitor settings. Is this normal if 80 is my max overclock?


Have you used the pixel clock patcher for your drivers if need?.... and have you created a custom resolution using CRU?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Hi, how can i fix screen uniformity at 120hz. In the top right corner at 120hz at 96hz or 120hz the color gets darker.


These ICC profiles will correct the higher gamma shift which will make your screen appear darker at the higher refresh rates..to install them into windows remove from them from the zip file dump on the desktop or any place of your choice and right click on them and choose install....use color profile keeper to apply your chosen profile...these ICC profile where calibrated at 200 cd/m brightness which is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button at 120hz and 17 clicks up at 96hz from a black screen

Edit if you have a dark area in just one corner of the screen you could have a fault with the LED back lights?....or the panel might not be sitting in the metal frame correctly?

120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


----------



## thanksinadvance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Have you used the pixel clock patcher for your drivers if need?.... and have you created a custom resolution using CRU?


I followed instructions from this thread so i did patcher and cru.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thanksinadvance*
> 
> I followed instructions from this thread so i did patcher and cru.


Firstly did you reboot after you created the cutom resalutions?...where are you looking to find the higher refresh rates?...do not use windows...if you have Nvidia look in the NVCP....or AMD CCC


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> These ICC profiles will correct the higher gamma shift which will make your screen appear darker at the higher refresh rates..to install them into windows remove from them from the zip file dump on the desktop or any place of your choice and right click on them and choose install....use color profile keeper to apply your chosen profile...these ICC profile where calibrated at 200 cd/m brightness which is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button at 120hz and 17 clicks up at 96hz from a black screen
> 
> Edit if you have a dark area in just one corner of the screen you could have a fault with the LED back lights?....or the panel might not be sitting in the metal frame correctly?
> 
> 120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file
> 
> 
> CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


as far as i can see its perfectly fine at 60hz but happens at 96/120


----------



## hammelgammler

5h 35m and still not finished...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> as far as i can see its perfectly fine at 60hz but happens at 96/120


Strange in this case i am at a loss what to think....you have applied the ICC profile yes?.....or i wonder if your PCB board is not liking the overclock and this is what is affecting your screen?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> 5h 35m and still not finished...


OMG really hahaha


----------



## thanksinadvance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Firstly did you reboot after you created the cutom resalutions?...where are you looking to find the higher refresh rates?...do not use windows...if you have Nvidia look in the NVCP....or AMD CCC


I did reboot after each time. I was looking in windows to change resolution but it's not in CCC either. In cru i have 85,80,59 but it only shows 59,60,80 in CCC.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thanksinadvance*
> 
> I did reboot after each time. I was looking in windows to change resolution but it's not in CCC either. In cru i have 85,80,59 but it only shows 59,60,80 in CCC.


Ok leave the 59hz because you need that do not delete that its the one you need to set the monitor back to when you are installing new drivers etc and it your default design resalution..so never delete that....the other 2 i would bin/trash delete..leaving just your 59hz...reboot then add one more at a time...try 96hz profile next and move it to the top of the list in CRU...then reboot....see it now?


----------



## thanksinadvance

I deleted them all except 59 and added 96 rebooted. Now in ccc i see 59 and 60 not 96. It's weird it will add 80 and below but anything above it won't add it. Well it did do 81 but i deleted that a while ago


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thanksinadvance*
> 
> I deleted them all except 59 and added 96 rebooted. Now in ccc i see 59 and 60 not 96. It's weird it will add 80 and below but anything above it won't add it.


Hmmm i don't use AMD so i don't know exactly where they could be hiding in there...in NVCP i thought i could not see mine when i first overclock my monitor....however where it said 60hz in NVCP i did not realizie that was a drop box and i found my 96hz and 120hz hiding in there....maybe someone here that has AMD CCC could help you better than myself


----------



## renji1337

120hz



96hz



60hz


----------



## zerocool135

Ive seen some other posts in this thread about powering the monitor with the 12v from your main pc power supply. The power brick on mine is getting a little warm and i was wondering if anyone had tried to make an adapter to hook it up that way and if you did how did it work out.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 96hz
> 
> 
> 
> 60hz


TBH from what i can see in theses pictures one can only conclude that it does NOT have a fault because at 60hz it looks just fine!....however it clearly for what ever reason does not like being overclocked and when is overclocked produces this darker area....can you live with this?...if not i guess you can not overclock this panel


----------



## Jetlitheone

So he said he'd refund me. I don't have the box still as I'm moving and threw it away but he's gonna pay the return shipping and stuff. Make sure you keep your boxes people. Haha


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocool135*
> 
> Ive seen some other posts in this thread about powering the monitor with the 12v from your main pc power supply. The power brick on mine is getting a little warm and i was wondering if anyone had tried to make an adapter to hook it up that way and if you did how did it work out.


Or do as i did when i noticed my cheap power brick that came with my monitor was getting hot....i bought a New CWT 12V 5A 60W Power Supply (P/N:CAD060121) for my monitor...and you then can be rest assured you have a nice stable clean regulated power supply to your monitor....and you cant get much better than Channel Well Technology they make the corsair PSU

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-CWT-Technology-Monitors-equipment/dp/B004HCCVLI


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

I have finally joined the Korean Monitor craze. I've ordered the "Ultimate" Perfect Pixel Qnix QX2710 from ExcellentCastle (the best name ever for an eBay store!!). No tracking number yet, and I paid for it over 12 hours ago. They're probably going through and opening every box trying to find one that doesn't have a faulty pixel!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> I have finally joined the Korean Monitor craze. I've ordered the "Ultimate" Perfect Pixel Qnix QX2710 from ExcellentCastle (the best name ever for an eBay store!!). No tracking number yet, and I paid for it over 12 hours ago. They're probably going through and opening every box trying to find one that doesn't have a faulty pixel!


They are closed for the weekend, I put an offer in yesterday on a Crossover, its still pending and will expire tomorrow.


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> They are closed for the weekend, I put an offer in yesterday on a Crossover, its still pending and will expire tomorrow.


Is that what it is? I thought those Koreans never stopped working?


----------



## zerocool135

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zerocool135*
> 
> Ive seen some other posts in this thread about powering the monitor with the 12v from your main pc power supply. The power brick on mine is getting a little warm and i was wondering if anyone had tried to make an adapter to hook it up that way and if you did how did it work out.
> 
> 
> 
> Or do as i did when i noticed my cheap power brick that came with my monitor was getting hot....i bought a New CWT 12V 5A 60W Power Supply (P/N:CAD060121) for my monitor...and you then can be rest assured you have a nice stable clean regulated power supply to your monitor....and you cant get much better than Channel Well Technology they make the corsair PSU
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-CWT-Technology-Monitors-equipment/dp/B004HCCVLI
Click to expand...

That does look like a good solution but when i just went to find out how much the shipping was going to be amazon UK said that they cant ship that item to me cause i live in the US and i cant find it on the US amazon site.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> Is that what it is? I thought those Koreans never stopped working?


I sent them a message about giving me an answer on my offer and got back a message saying they were out of the office till 2-9. They will lose my sale if they don't respond by the time it expires. The time difference really makes it hard to communicate with them.


----------



## hammelgammler

Number of measurements taken = 217
Patch 89 of 96
Time: 07:32:00

Damn, that calibration is never going to end.








I hope after the "patches" it will be finished.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocool135*
> 
> That does look like a good solution but when i just went to find out how much the shipping was going to be amazon UK said that they cant ship that item to me cause i live in the US and i cant find it on the US amazon site.


I feel sure you would be able to find someone in the U.S.A selling this.....in fact here you go for a little under 10 bucks as you guys say









http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-CAD060121-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Charger-/321077049477


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Number of measurements taken = 217
> Patch 89 of 96
> Time: 07:32:00
> 
> Damn, that calibration is never going to end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope after the "patches" it will be finished.


LOL yes it may of been a mistake putting it on slow inconjuction with the *massive* LUT patch lol...however you have gotta roll with it now you can not even contemplate ending it after this amout of time...however it must be frustrating not being able to use your new monitor though lol...also i really hope you dont get a power cut in your area...we need this iconic 7+ hour calibration to try out


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> LOL yes it may of been a mistake putting it on slow inconjuction with the *massive* LUT patch lol...however you have gotta roll with it now you can not even contemplate ending it after this amout of time...however it must be frustrating not being able to use your new monitor though lol...also i really hope you dont get a power cut in your area...we need this iconic 7+ hour calibration to try out


Yeah i also think that was a mistake.
I assume the "number of measurements" are important how good the calibration profile is going to be.
And for the last couple of hours it is at 217 measurements. So i think next time i will set the speed at medium.
The same process for the second monitor with 84hz...

And well... both are not new... Bought them 6 months ago or so


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Yeah i also think that was a mistake.
> I assume the "number of measurements" are important how good the calibration profile is going to be.
> And for the last couple of hours it is at 217 measurements. So i think next time i will set the speed at medium.
> The same process for the second monitor with 84hz...


*I assume the "number of measurements" are important how good the calibration profile is going to be.*

Yes plus the fact that you selected white and black drift compensation this also slows it down as it keeps measuring black and white patches at different points thoughout the calibration taking into account any differnt screen temperatures!... the colors can slightly change at differnt screen temperatures ...so this calibration should be really good as it has been measuring all day while taking monitor and screen temperature color variations into consideration....this is gonna be one hell of a calibration.....however next time you select medium


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> *I assume the "number of measurements" are important how good the calibration profile is going to be.*
> 
> Yes plus the fact that you selected white and black drift compensation this also slows it down as it keeps measuring black and white patches at different points thoughout the calibration taking into account any differnt screen temperatures!... the colors can slightly change at differnt screen temperatures ...so this calibration should be really good as it has been measuring all day while taking monitor and screen temperature color variations into consideration....this is gonna be one hell of a calibration.....however next time you select medium


Oh man... 9h 16min...
Patches are over, now there are other patches!...
Patch 20 of 2527... Well okay...








I think im not able to use my monitor for the current day.

Lol woot im going to die.
Calculated there are approx 10 hours left until its finished.
Well 20h calibration for one profile... No Problem Lol


----------



## renji1337

Clearer shot of my Overclocking issue lol. I dont know what to think about it because its hard to notice in games, and i can change back to 60hz at desktop. and the monitor has virtually no blb and its perfect pixel. Thoughts?

60hz


96hz


120hz


----------



## Jetlitheone

Seems like these panels are getting more and more less appealing. So many having more then just simple issues "/ maybe I'll go back to green-sum or something.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Seems like these panels are getting more and more less appealing. So many having more then just simple issues "/ maybe I'll go back to green-sum or something.


well mine has that tint issue when overclocked which im trying to figure out if its fixable


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Seems like these panels are getting more and more less appealing. So many having more then just simple issues "/ maybe I'll go back to green-sum or something.


While I was waiting on mine I was wondering if I should have gone with a seller that used DHL or was cheaper or something, but in the end Dreamseller gave me a good panel, so I'd recommend him. Of course, it was more that I won the lottery, but still.


----------



## playboysmoov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Monitor Stands are on the Front Page.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *playboysmoov*
> 
> *I looked at the stickies on the front page and none of HP stands are available on ebay.*
> 
> Did they change the model of the HP one, as that one looks really nice?


Thank you for the feedback...

I was looking for more information about the HP monitor stand. The monoprice ones are just ugly and probably too wide for my monitor stand/shelf.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Clearer shot of my Overclocking issue lol. I dont know what to think about it because its hard to notice in games, and i can change back to 60hz at desktop. and the monitor has virtually no blb and its perfect pixel. Thoughts?
> 
> 60hz
> 
> 
> 96hz


When I had it, I only used 96Hz and never noticed that. But I never bother to look at one solid color either









When gaming its something you'll never see (I certainly never did) so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Maybe try 100-110Hz and see if its closer to the 96Hz then the 120Hz.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> When I had it, I only used 96Hz and never noticed that. But I never bother to look at one solid color either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When gaming its something you'll never see (I certainly never did) so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
> 
> Maybe try 100-110Hz and see if its closer to the 96Hz then the 120Hz.


Im going to try this and play with alot of settings. I didnt even notice it until i started testing either. its something i would notice in movies/anime, but then again i could change to 60hz for that anyways. and i have a vg248qe next to me for anything FPS game wise.


----------



## Osteoman

I have noticed similar uniformity issue on a green screen with OC. Interestingly ihavnt seen it on any other colors. I don't notice it at other times so I'm not to concerned about it.


----------



## renji1337

other people should post there results with greenscreens haha.

btw this happens on red and blue for me too. technically on every screen color some are more noticebly and some are less


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> other people should post there results with greenscreens haha.
> 
> btw this happens on red and blue for me too. technically on every screen color some are more noticebly and some are less


I think you may of hit on something here with greens!



120hz little dark area



60hz perfect



120hz perfect



120hz perfect



120hz.. Maybe a little dark area but only in the photo can not see it looking at screen with my eyes



120hz perfect

i would like to see other peoples screen shot of greens overclocked please i think renji has stumbled across something here..i only seem to see this darker area in green!......in my picture of my white screen i could see some in the corner but only though the camera...all the other colours seemed to pass...

I am not at all worried about this i run my monitor at 120hz 24/7 and am more than happy with it...had renji not pointed this out i don't believe i would of ever stumbled across this!....i can only believe its related to non fully corrected higher gamma shift in green?

Edit: i am thinking maybe because its in the top right corner and no where else...and also understanding that there are NOT lights all around the screen.....it must be the layer of diffuser that spreads the light out evenly across the whole display....so therefore running this higher hz its not coping to well with the color green by the time it hits the top right hand corner!

Thats the only thing i can think of!

Test your green on this website if you see the darker color on green in the top right hand corner or with any other color please post a picture thanks









http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=2

Wow its gone in the green now i just tried again with the lights out and no dark area at 120hz.....strange indeed!


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *playboysmoov*
> 
> Thank you for the feedback...
> 
> I was looking for more information about the HP monitor stand. The monoprice ones are just ugly and probably too wide for my monitor stand/shelf.


Yeah, the HP is generally sold out so it's really hard to get one. You can google for a "Ergotron Stand" I got one of them.


----------



## Osteoman

As I mentioned I have seen similar unevenness with green only but mine is a rippled across the entire screen, notin the upper right only . My other colors are fine. I first noticed this when looking for pixels a week or so ago but really didn't think that much about it done it doesn't show up on anything else


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> As I mentioned I have seen similar unevenness with green only but mine is a rippled across the entire screen, notin the upper right only . My other colors are fine. I first noticed this when looking for pixels a week or so ago but really didn't think that much about it done it doesn't show up on anything else


Yes it is strange i just retried the green again with the lights out and could not replicate the dark top right hand corner at 120hz...it appears to have gone?....how strange!


----------



## lawson67

Looks like these could possibly be the next big thing with the glossy screen lovers

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221359252508?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


----------



## Osteoman

Ahhhhhh. But will they OC?

You know, compared to my Dell U2711, this matte one we have IS glossy. Seriously

I don't like my Dell now and one of the stores here in Texas sells it still for $1000 US.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Looks like these could possibly be the next big thing with the glossy screen lovers
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221359252508?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


That was recommended to me based on someone who does a lot of monitor reviews and the fact I said around $300. My Crossover 27QW offer was rejected, he countered and I rejected his heh.


----------



## Watagump

Stay tuned.

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14903-monex-m27qsm-review-glossy-2560x1440-pls.html


----------



## DAC901

I recently joined the club and bought the Qnix 27" Matte from accessorieswhole and received it on the 5th.

It had no problems with dead pixels, the issue is that on top of the backlight bleed, there are horizontal bars of light running up the left side of the screen.
I dont want to go ahead and open the monitor up because this doesn't look similar to any backlight bleeding I've seen, I'm guessing that this is an actual defect with the monitor itself.
Should I return this one? Those bars are really distracting whenever there are areas of black on the left side.




I noticed a couple pages back that Jetlitheone had a similar problem. You able to get the refund right?

Any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## smokerings

I ended up finding one dead pixel on my screen a few inches to the left and up from the middle of the QNIX logo.

Not a big deal because out of 3.69 million pixels it's just one extremely tiny red dot that is only noticeable on a white screen!
I still have to hunt a bit to see it.

Anyways here's a quick bad shot of my setup.
My 13-14 year old Canon Powershot G5 seems to have a few dead pixels now too!










I'm currently running it at 96hz with one of the colour profiles last posted by lawson, it is still looking pretty sharp.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAC901*
> 
> I recently joined the club and bought the Qnix 27" Matte from accessorieswhole and received it on the 5th.
> 
> It had no problems with dead pixels, the issue is that on top of the backlight bleed, there are horizontal bars of light running up the left side of the screen.
> I dont want to go ahead and open the monitor up because this doesn't look similar to any backlight bleeding I've seen, I'm guessing that this is an actual defect with the monitor itself.
> Should I return this one? Those bars are really distracting whenever there are areas of black on the left side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed a couple pages back that Jetlitheone had a similar problem. You able to get the refund right?
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAC901*
> 
> I recently joined the club and bought the Qnix 27" Matte from accessorieswhole and received it on the 5th.
> 
> It had no problems with dead pixels, the issue is that on top of the backlight bleed, there are horizontal bars of light running up the left side of the screen.
> I dont want to go ahead and open the monitor up because this doesn't look similar to any backlight bleeding I've seen, I'm guessing that this is an actual defect with the monitor itself.
> Should I return this one? Those bars are really distracting whenever there are areas of black on the left side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed a couple pages back that Jetlitheone had a similar problem. You able to get the refund right?
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.


Yes after arguing he said he will refund me. Already opened a case with paypal though so we will see what happens.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Ahhhhhh. But will they OC?
> 
> You know, compared to my Dell U2711, this matte one we have IS glossy. Seriously
> 
> I don't like my Dell now and one of the stores here in Texas sells it still for $1000 US.


Yeah i feel sure that will OC it seems to have the same Samsung panel as the Qnix from the stats on it.....it also has NO scaler....she will OC


----------



## Dyekid217

Hey guys just got my other 660 in the mail maybe u guys can help me out since nobody will respond to my other thread. I tried to sli it but I don't think I did it properly. I didn't do a clean wipe of my old drivers but my computer just keeps rebooting after making it to the login screen. Should I update my bios drivers? Also I have a 600w ocz modx power supply I'm not sure if that's sufficient enough for two overclock able 660's

Also the cards are being recognized fine in the bios system explorer


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Ahhhhhh. But will they OC?
> 
> You know, compared to my Dell U2711, this matte one we have IS glossy. Seriously
> 
> I don't like my Dell now and one of the stores here in Texas sells it still for $1000 US.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i feel sure that will OC it seems to have the same Samsung panel as the Qnix from the stats on it.....it also has NO scaler....she will OC
Click to expand...

No she will not lol NCX already tested it and said so

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> No she will not lol NCX already tested it and said so
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


Really why wont it?...it looks from its stats it has the same panel as ours and no scaler....i need to read NCX review then....he must have put why it wont OC?


----------



## lawson67

From NXC review *The Monex accepts higher hz signals but greats them with a black screen...in other words it can not overclock.*

What a shame must have a different PCB board to the Qnix?

Unless his one was just pants! and the others will?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> From NXC review *The Monex accepts higher hz signals but greats them with a black screen...in other words it can not overclock.*
> 
> What a shame must have a different PCB board to the Qnix?


Yep that's exactly what.

Sad cause I was gonna buy it. Oh well the lottery again it is

Not going to buy one yet though since I'm moving in a week...


----------



## Cyalume

Sign me up for the club, though I feel like I may have paid a bit too much in getting mine. I just placed my order, which was $450 total: A $50 3 year warranty is included in that cost. This particular seller had a guarantee of zero dead pixels, else they would swap it for free.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111088789065?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Quote:


> No Dead pixel, No Stuck pixel *guaranteed*!
> Free shipping, free charge of return and full refund assured!
> Don't get bothered by defective pixel, No more.
> Accessorieswhole's perfect pixel monitor will blow out your worries.
> If you don't understand the meaning of Dead or Stuck Pixel,
> you can search "Defective pixel" on Wikipedia and get the information.
> All monitors sold in AccessoriesWhole take three times inspection before its shipment.
> AccessoriesWhole do utmost to provide best service.


Note that they're promising me absolutely no dead pixels. Thats why I decided to pay their premium. Maybe I've been had, but I'm not worried about it at this point. I expect top notch stuff (save for the stand/lack of ports/etc, which I don't care about), and based on what I've read, I doubt I will be disappointed.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Sign me up for the club, though I feel like I may have paid a bit too much in getting mine. I just placed my order, which was $450 total: A $50 3 year warranty is included in that cost. This particular seller had a guarantee of zero dead pixels, else they would swap it for free.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/111088789065?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> Note that they're promising me absolutely no dead pixels. Thats why I decided to pay their premium. Maybe I've been had, but I'm not worried about it at this point. I expect top notch stuff (save for the stand/lack of ports/etc, which I don't care about), and based on what I've read, I doubt I will be disappointed.


I got mine from him same deal .."guarantee of zero dead pixels"....and i did not have one dead pixel...just bad BLB which i soon sorted out by striping it down and straightening the frame...BLB 100% gone!


----------



## digitalforce

I am tempted to open my near perfect Qnix because of bad BLB on the top.. but one thing I've noticed, and maybe I am just spoiled with my Panasonic Plasma, but I want a monitor with blacks as deep as my plasma. Frustrated that in dark games, like Tomb Raider, I notice the glow.

Is the Qnix Glossy or tempered glass seem to have deeper blacks? Also, why is the glossy double the price of the matte?!

I am debating between sticking with my Qnix or trying:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY16C8175


----------



## digitalforce

Of course, there is this too as I LOVED my Catleap but the price...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-1440p-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140919957473?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20cf7be7e1


----------



## Cyalume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Of course, there is this too as I LOVED my Catleap but the price...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-1440p-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140919957473?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20cf7be7e1


If they could gaurentee 120hz, maybe. But since they can't, I'm with you. Good luck to them on that.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey guys so I was trying to plug my HP 2310ei as a second monitor (in addition to the qnix) and it doesn't get detected. I've a Radeon HD 7870 (DVI [QNIX], HDMI [connected to the 2. monitor via DisplayPort>HDMI adepter on the monitor]. I've read something about male dp to female HDMI adapter not being viable in this setup. Can I get a dvi>hdmi cable and roll with that`?


----------



## ktrizzle

Hi i have overclock my qnix to 120hz..but its a lil dark on the gaming side. Is there anyway to bright the monitor up. I have set my monitor to max setting.


----------



## kxdu

Just sold my 2 x u2412m that I have on landscape sitting next to my Qnix. Time to order a second Qnix and figure out how to fit this on my Ikea Jerker desk...

Any recommendations on a dual monitor stand for 2 x Qnix? I do plan on debezelling both of them in the near future too.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktrizzle*
> 
> Hi i have overclock my qnix to 120hz..but its a lil dark on the gaming side. Is there anyway to bright the monitor up. I have set my monitor to max setting.


Got to get an ICC profile to fix the gamma shift that's associated with overclocking the panel and then you download Cpkeeper to keep the color profiles when playing games and such.


----------



## cipp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Just sold my 2 x u2412m that I have on landscape sitting next to my Qnix. Time to order a second Qnix and figure out how to fit this on my Ikea Jerker desk...
> 
> Any recommendations on a dual monitor stand for 2 x Qnix? I do plan on debezelling both of them in the near future too.


You could just get one of these for each monitor.. it'll be cheaper than one mount for 2 monitors probably, and most definitely cheaper than a single mount for 3 monitors


----------



## hammelgammler

Okay... Calibration is done but the colors are looking not that great as expected...
Maybe there are differences between my and lawsons settings with dispcal, or its because he uses a spyder4pro (theres a spyder4pro software icon at your desktop)...
Everything is very very redish (can i say that?) and grey does look very red instead of grey.
When loading your profile, everything is perfect but in comparison my profile looks awfull.
The first calibration took 12 hours, then i took another one with medium speed and a large LUT profile... Also very redish.

It would be nice if you could tell me your exact settings when using dispcal, and also if you have changed everything else that could be my mistake.
I will post some pictures when i get home and upload my profiles.
The deltaE was also higher than the one from lawson, sRGB percentage lower only the adobeRGB percentage was a little big higher. The deltaE max was at something like 10...

Here are the pictures:

First calibration (11h+):


Second calibration (large LUT):


Third:


And here are the profiles:

storage.zip 1450k .zip file


----------



## Jetlitheone

Lol you can't take screen caps of calibrations. Doesn't work like that.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Lol you can't take screen caps of calibrations. Doesn't work like that.


I know. It's only to show my settings i used in dispcal and to show the results for sRGB deltaE and so on.
So lawson can compare it with his results.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Okay... Calibration is done but the colors are looking not that great as expected...
> Maybe there are differences between my and lawsons settings with dispcal, or its because he uses a spyder4pro (theres a spyder4pro software icon at your desktop)...
> Everything is very very redish (can i say that?) and grey does look very red instead of grey.
> When loading your profile, everything is perfect but in comparison my profile looks awfull.
> The first calibration took 12 hours, then i took another one with medium speed and a large LUT profile... Also very redish.
> 
> It would be nice if you could tell me your exact settings when using dispcal, and also if you have changed everything else that could be my mistake.
> I will post some pictures when i get home and upload my profiles.
> The deltaE was also higher than the one from lawson, sRGB percentage lower only the adobeRGB percentage was a little big higher. The deltaE max was at something like 10...
> 
> Here are the pictures:
> 
> First calibration (11h+):
> 
> 
> Second calibration (large LUT):
> 
> 
> Third:
> 
> 
> And here are the profiles:
> 
> storage.zip 1450k .zip file


Hey hammel did you install the colour corrections from the spyder 4 software into dispcal ?....also i notice you have made 4 profiles?....did doing the massive LUT make 4 ICC profiles?....also when you install the profile with dispcal also untick allow the operating system handle the calibration and let the profile loader from dispcal handle your calibration *alone.*...also i calibrated mine at night in my study with all my lights off...did you have any direct light falling on your screen from any light source ?

Also you having a spyder 4 express would not make any difference as the sensors inside are all the same on all the spyder 4 colorimeters....the difference is within there software...i think the only difference between the pro and elite a ambient light measuring sensors....which really is a complete waste of time anyhow and i never use it.....Btw yes they do look a bit warm (red) on my screen also apart from DUAL-DVI 2014-01-31 D6500 2.2 M-S 3xCurve+MTX which it appears to of corrected the gamma shift at 96hz and i think looks ok it has a slight green tint though....you have to remember all screens are different and what i see will be slightly different from what you see...also we get used to the white point we have been looking at for months on end and any change from a calibration will take time to get used too.

I would like to know if you imported the color corrections from the spyder 4 software?....also was there any direct light source falling on the screen when calibrated?...also i would like you to calibrating using the spyder express software using a Native white point and a native brightness so we could compare the profiles to dispcal









Edit: Also dispcal should of told you what brightness your screen was at while calibrating...that measure of brightness should be used with the resulting profiles as thats what they where calibrated at....this screen is capable of a brightness of 300 cd/m which is very bright...i set mine at 200 cd/m which is also faily bright however my study has 6 windows and in the day time i need 200 cd/m...in the summer i may need more!


----------



## thanksinadvance

Was bored so i uninstalled video drivers and everything else and started over. No clue why but nothing above 81 will show up in CCC. I can do 59-63 and those will all show up but if i do 59,61,62, and 82 the 82 shows up as 60. I'm fine if monitor can only overclock to 81 (passes the internet frame test) just find it annoying higher rates aren't showing up correctly for me to even see if they will work. Don't know if it matters but using a amd 4870 x2. Anyone have any ideas? Love my Qnix btw


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thanksinadvance*
> 
> Was bored so i uninstalled video drivers and everything else and started over. No clue why but nothing above 81 will show up in CCC. I can do 59-63 and those will all show up but if i do 59,61,62, and 82 the 82 shows up as 60. I'm fine if monitor can only overclock to 81 (passes the internet frame test) just find it annoying higher rates aren't showing up correctly for me to even see if they will work. Don't know if it matters but using a amd 4870 x2. Anyone have any ideas? Love my Qnix btw


I dont think a 4870 will work for overclocking i thought it was 5 series and up.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

NVM found it


----------



## Jokah

This has probably been asked or talked about several times but this is now quite a large thread. How come so many people seem to settle on 96Hz? I know all screens aren't made equal and some have more potential than others but 96Hz seems to be quite a popular choice. Is there some benefit to particular setting?

I'm currently stable at 90Hz but 100Hz is a no go. If there is some benefit to 96Hz I may give it a try.


----------



## OutlawII

So why do we have to use Cpkeeper why wont windows keep the profile we set?


----------



## thanksinadvance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> I dont think a 4870 will work for overclocking i thought it was 5 series and up.


I moved to console gaming a long time ago so totally out of the loop when it comes to video cards. Any advice on a new cheap video card? Cheaper the better since i won't be gaming with it


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thanksinadvance*
> 
> I moved to console gaming a long time ago so totally out of the loop when it comes to video cards. Any advice on a new cheap video card? Cheaper the better since i won't be gaming with it


If your not gaming then why overclock monitor?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thanksinadvance*
> 
> I moved to console gaming a long time ago so totally out of the loop when it comes to video cards. Any advice on a new cheap video card? Cheaper the better since i won't be gaming with it


Both major sellers of GPUs have a budget version of their cards. I myself am a bit out of the loop with AMD so i will pass you some nvidia advise(anyone else can jump in for AMD and no brand bashing it is not helpful). For nvidia they has two considerable budget options for the newest brand(unless you want to grab old hardware). One is their GT series(GT630 for example) that can have a pretty good bang for its buck but is definitely a budgeted card. The other option is their budget friendly gaming cards which just about always have a 50 on it(like the GTX650 for example) this card generally has quite a bit more kick than the GT series but can cost about twice as much(but still holds a relative budget worthy price compared to the higher model card).

Then you could also always step down a series or two to get a VERY good price. For example on OCN market or Ebay there are plenty of GTX570s and 660s for sale at a fraction of the original release price. This is the same for AMD cards as well. I just recently got a GTX670 for a customer of mine used(we per-established used components was OK) for just under 150.

So i would suggest at least for nvidia to go with an older version of a high end card (like a 570 or even a 660 maybe) or go for the newest budget gaming card which is the GTX650 and soon to be 750. AMD will usually have similar offerings at a somewhat lower price. Definitely use this knowledge set and then take a look at benchmarks. Knowing exactly what you will get out of the card will help justify what price you put out.

One thing is for sure though, 1440p does require at least 1.5GB of VRAM for most games even at mid settings(2GB and up would be optimal).

Used
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZOTAC-GeForce-GTX-570-Fermi-1280MB-320-bit-GDDR5-Video-Card-with-SLI-Support-/151218886743?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item2335591857

New
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-2048MB-Graphics-02G-P4-2651-KR/dp/B00966IOYS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1391872872&sr=1-4&keywords=gtx+750

I know this is nvidia swayed so if an AMD owner wants to jump in and cover AMD equivalent info that would be helpful(especially since it will likely be a bit cheaper in price and that is his primary focus)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> If your not gaming then why overclock monitor?


120hz makes the whole desktop experience better not just gaming. browsing at anything over 60hz for long periods of time can help quite a lot(with headaches and whatnot on a per person basis). Also getting a multiple of 24 will help his video content playback.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokah*
> 
> This has probably been asked or talked about several times but this is now quite a large thread. How come so many people seem to settle on 96Hz? I know all screens aren't made equal and some have more potential than others but 96Hz seems to be quite a popular choice. Is there some benefit to particular setting?
> 
> I'm currently stable at 90Hz but 100Hz is a no go. If there is some benefit to 96Hz I may give it a try.


96hz is the next multiple of 24 under 120hz. Most do NOT troubleshoot or optimize their timings(effort) so they settle for 96hz(due to the multiple). Also with 96hz there is less gamma shift thus less need for intensive calibration.

So people "settling" for 96hz is exactly how it sounds(unless they just can't get it to 120 which can happen) and the cause for 96 is multiples of 24 for video playback.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> So why do we have to use Cpkeeper why wont windows keep the profile we set?


Because windows is not always the perfect "catch all" and games don't recognize the gamma ramps when in full screen(also related to *full screen exclusive mode*)


----------



## renji1337

I found out that when overclocking greens/greys get really dim top right side.

60hz



96hz



120hz


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> So why do we have to use Cpkeeper why wont windows keep the profile we set?


We don't have to use Cpkeeper at all you can let windows have full control over your ICC profile....some people use Cpkeeper in an attempt to force some games to use there ICC profiles...however some games need full control of your cards color table and gamma settings like for instance the game "metro last light" and will artefact and lock up if you attempt to force your ICC profile into that game....this is because "metro last light" is highly graphical atmospheric game set in dark tunnels in underground Russia ....also because of the fact that you are in dark tunnels for the duration of the game it requires you on install to set up gamma within the game which will be replied every time you start the game there after....of course the game wants to now take control of your cards gamma when it starts up....but Cpkeeper is not allowing it....hence artefacts and lock ups... for the game to be displayed the way the game makers intended it be it needs control of your gamma...this means up on starting the game it will wants to reset your gamma and apply its own settings that you applied within the game when you first ran it and set it up..

I let dispcalGUI profile loader control my ICC profile as it find it does a far better job than windows when releasing my graphics card to games and reapplying them once i leave the game and go back to the desktop...sometimes windows does not do this reliably...


----------



## Anton149

I am about to buy the Qnix Q2710 from eBay as the monitor in my very first build. The build is going to be this if that is important: https://www.komplett.dk/k/shoplist.aspx?mode=receive&si=1338786&su=81D78F7C-08D9-4421-A56B-E0B1EF9CF446 . I was looking at this version of the monitor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25

But I have no clue which one I should pick. There is so many different versions that looks exactly the same, but have different prices. I would like one with a matte finish and around the price point as the one I found myself (a bit pricier is okay, but preferably not more than 30-50 USD more since I have to pay a lot in taxes since i'm from Denmark). I'm using it with a 780, but is the 3GB VRAM enough to power this beast? Which seller is best in terms of service/price? Which company do you recommend using for shipping the product? Is there anything I have to tell the seller when I buy such as "Check dead pixels and BLB" for example?

I know I have a lot of questions, but I really hope you guys can answer 'em all! Thanks in advance!


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> We don't have to use Cpkeeper at all you can let windows have full control over your ICC profile....some people use Cpkeeper in an attempt to force some games to use there ICC profiles...however some games need full control of your cards color table and gamma settings like for instance the game "metro last light" and will artefact and lock up if you attempt to force your ICC profile into that game....this is because "metro last light" is highly graphical atmospheric game set in dark tunnels in underground Russia ....also because of the fact that you are in dark tunnels for the duration of the game it requires you on install to set up gamma within the game which will be replied every time you start the game there after....of course the game wants to now take control of your cards gamma when it starts up....but Cpkeeper is not allowing it....hence artefacts and lock ups... for the game to be displayed the way the game makers intended it be it needs control of your gamma...this means up on starting the game it will wants to reset your gamma and apply its own settings that you applied within the game when you first ran it and set it up..
> 
> I let dispcalGUI profile loader control my ICC profile as it find it does a far better job than windows when releasing my graphics card to games and reapplying them once i leave the game and go back to the desktop...sometimes windows does not do this reliably...


Thanks for the explanation


----------



## Fiduciary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton149*
> 
> I am about to buy the Qnix Q2710 from eBay as the monitor in my very first build. The build is going to be this if that is important: https://www.komplett.dk/k/shoplist.aspx?mode=receive&si=1338786&su=81D78F7C-08D9-4421-A56B-E0B1EF9CF446 . I was looking at this version of the monitor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25
> 
> But I have no clue which one I should pick. There is so many different versions that looks exactly the same, but have different prices. I would like one with a matte finish and around the price point as the one I found myself (a bit pricier is okay, but preferably not more than 30-50 USD more since I have to pay a lot in taxes since i'm from Denmark). I'm using it with a 780, but is the 3GB VRAM enough to power this beast? Which seller is best in terms of service/price? Which company do you recommend using for shipping the product? Is there anything I have to tell the seller when I buy such as "Check dead pixels and BLB" for example?
> 
> I know I have a lot of questions, but I really hope you guys can answer 'em all! Thanks in advance!


First off, most of the monitors are actually the same thing, just from different sellers, or with different pixel guarantees on them. For instance "normal" (up to 3 or 5 dead/stuck pixels), "Pixel Perfect" which is typically up to 1 or 2 dead/stuck pixels, and then some have ultimate pixel perfect which is zero dead/stuck pixels. Just pick whichever seller you've heard the best things about, and choose how much risk you're ok with, although some people have shown that pixel perfect is often a scam, and involves no further checking. It may make a different to the return policy though.

As far as a 780, I think the VRAM is probably enough, but I wouldn't expect to run the latest games at 1440p at 120Hz at max settings. You should be able to get ~50 FPS at max, or if you turn off some features go higher, and older/less intense games you should be able to hit 120Hz.

For a company to ship, I've heard good things about DHL, but that really depends on what country you're shipping too, and the seller will often choose the shipping company, not you.


----------



## maegnas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> I found out that when overclocking greens/greys get really dim top right side.
> 
> 60hz
> 
> 
> 
> 96hz
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz


I also have noticed the issue with the darkening top-right corner. My examples below show it best on the green screen, however it is quite apparent on other colors as well. (first noticed it w/ the Facebook blue bar across the top as well as the Overclock.net background) I have confirmed this happens with both the stock color profile, as well as lawson67's 'Nativedispcal120hz200cdm' profile, so it does not appear to be related to the profile.

The monitor is otherwise stable at 120hz, and arrived with very minimal backlight bleed (I opened it up anyway and removed a lot of the pads behind the panel as the pressure on those points was actually the main culprit of the BLB.)

 60hz
 96hz
 120hz

FYI - I ordered my monitor on 1/31/14 from accessorieswhole seller on eBay.

Here are my current CRU settings: (Running an Nvidia GTX 780)





Thanks for any help, and thank you to all those who have posted - it has answered a countless number of my questions in setting up this monitor.


----------



## ottoman2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> It depends on if you want to run the games at 1440...with just one gtx660ti you wont hit 120 fps in all modern games at ultra...i have 2 gtx660 in sli i like ultra settings...not all my games i can hit 120 in ultra though....however a 120hz pls monitor to me is worth it...many games i can play at 120fps and the desktop the browsing the web everything is so smooth at 120hz.....just get one and and get another gtx660 ti


That's a common misconception I read all the time in this thread. You don't need 60+ or 120 fps do get the benefits of a 120 Hz monitor. With 120 Hz, even if you only have 40 or even 25 fps, the motion is smoother (vsync on) or you have less tearing (vsync off).


----------



## skater2k2

I post a few posts before a shot from my display with some strange dark lines on the left side. I shot this at 96Hz. If i go back to 60Hz, screen is looking almost fine. Got mine on 8/2/14 from accessorieswhole. Maybe theire is currently a batch of panels wich isnt good for overclocking. Here are some samples from mine:

Screen displaying 50% grayscale. All shots taken with 1/100s F4 ISO250

60Hz


72Hz


96Hz


120Hz


Im running this with the stock cable and nvidia 670.

This effect is only so strong at grayscales.

If anyone is interested of the 50% grayscale image(2560x1440), here you go:

50-gray.jpg 117k .jpg file


----------



## Anton149

Thanks for the insight! I haven't really heard about any sellers in particular, but accessorieswhole seems like a good and trusted one. I have heard about the pixel perfect models and decided not to go with one since I was pretty sure it was some kind of marketing scam! I don't plan to overclock, but if I decide to do so, it won't be more than 96hz!


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I think you may of hit on something here with greens!
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz little dark area
> 
> 
> 
> 60hz perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz.. Maybe a little dark area but only in the photo can not see it looking at screen with my eyes
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz perfect
> 
> i would like to see other peoples screen shot of greens overclocked please i think renji has stumbled across something here..i only seem to see this darker area in green!......in my picture of my white screen i could see some in the corner but only though the camera...all the other colours seemed to pass...
> 
> I am not at all worried about this i run my monitor at 120hz 24/7 and am more than happy with it...had renji not pointed this out i don't believe i would of ever stumbled across this!....i can only believe its related to non fully corrected higher gamma shift in green?
> 
> Edit: i am thinking maybe because its in the top right corner and no where else...and also understanding that there are NOT lights all around the screen.....it must be the layer of diffuser that spreads the light out evenly across the whole display....so therefore running this higher hz its not coping to well with the color green by the time it hits the top right hand corner!
> 
> Thats the only thing i can think of!
> 
> Test your green on this website if you see the darker color on green in the top right hand corner or with any other color please post a picture thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=2
> 
> Wow its gone in the green now i just tried again with the lights out and no dark area at 120hz.....strange indeed!


I just took a look at mine again, and I am wrong, it is mostly just the upper right corner although it is worse then yours at 120hz. No big deal, because it's not with other colors. Honestly the reason I first noticed it on the greens was because my electronic medical record software has a green background.

I'm not worried about it but it is there.


----------



## Osteoman

This is mine at 120Hz.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> 
> 
> This is mine at 120Hz.


I feel like i have stumbled upon something that everyone has. lol


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> I feel like i have stumbled upon something that everyone has. lol


Yes we have known about this for a while. It is a side effect of a high pixel clock called un even screen uniformity. This will mainly happen on light greys or blues but obviously can be seen on green as well. Optimizing your pixel clock will help but may not completely get rid of it. Brightness level can also make it more apparent. And yes everyone with a pixel clock over 450mhz will have a relative amount of this. Running at 96hz with optimized timings should get rid of it completely(at least with mine) but i opted to run 120hz and optimize my timings. I still slightly get a bit of darkening on a very specific level of grey but it is not noticeable unless i look for it.


----------



## mrbojangles43

Sorry if this has already been asked but are the Evolution II's the monitors with multiple inputs because many of the listings on Ebay for the Evo II's say they only have DVI and Audio inputs such as this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc

Any help would be much appreciated because this is the thing stopping me from pulling the trigger on one of these. I just want to make sure i can overclock mine. Hopefully.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yes we have known about this for a while. It is a side effect of a high pixel clock called un even screen uniformity. This will mainly happen on light greys or blues but obviously can be seen on green as well. Optimizing your pixel clock will help but may not completely get rid of it. Brightness level can also make it more apparent. And yes everyone with a pixel clock over 450mhz will have a relative amount of this. Running at 96hz with optimized timings should get rid of it completely(at least with mine) but i opted to run 120hz and optimize my timings. I still slightly get a bit of darkening on a very specific level of grey but it is not noticeable unless i look for it.


Give me a 96hz with optimized timings so i can test







i forgot my 96hz settings


----------



## digitalforce

Can Lawson or someone post his 96hz ICC profile please? I am running his 120hz one and it rocks but wanted to compare the 96hz one.


----------



## maegnas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Yes we have known about this for a while. It is a side effect of a high pixel clock called un even screen uniformity. This will mainly happen on light greys or blues but obviously can be seen on green as well. Optimizing your pixel clock will help but may not completely get rid of it. Brightness level can also make it more apparent. And yes everyone with a pixel clock over 450mhz will have a relative amount of this. Running at 96hz with optimized timings should get rid of it completely(at least with mine) but i opted to run 120hz and optimize my timings. I still slightly get a bit of darkening on a very specific level of grey but it is not noticeable unless i look for it.


So I went and searched through your other posts discussing optimization of the timings and you mentioned to start with what works and work down on the 'total pixels'. Unfortunately it seems I cannot go below 2652 x 1445 at all or I start getting lines or hitting test mode. I know you mentioned you got a DVI cable from monoprice and that helped you get lower - which cable specifically did you get?

It's also possible I'm misunderstanding the best technique for tuning these timings. What would be the best approach to tuning in order to reduce the uneven uniformity?

One thing that is confusing to me is that you mention anyone with a pixel clock rate over 450Mhz will have that, however at 96hz the uneven uniformity still exists (though not quite as bad), even though the pixel clock rate is nowhere near 450Mhz. (In my case it is at 386Mhz) I tried playing with the timings at 96hz but have had no success in eliminating the uneven uniformity thus far.

Thank you for your help.


----------



## maegnas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrbojangles43*
> 
> Sorry if this has already been asked but are the Evolution II's the monitors with multiple inputs because many of the listings on Ebay for the Evo II's say they only have DVI and Audio inputs such as this one.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc
> 
> Any help would be much appreciated because this is the thing stopping me from pulling the trigger on one of these. I just want to make sure i can overclock mine. Hopefully.


I'm quite positive that one does not have multiple inputs - just the DVI-D, audio, and power connections. This is the same one I have - just different seller, and mine overclocks to 120hz.

I believe from what I've read the multiple input models are not overclockable, so avoid those if you intend on overclocking. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## maegnas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Can Lawson or someone post his 96hz ICC profile please? I am running his 120hz one and it rocks but wanted to compare the 96hz one.


He already posted a 96hz one:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/13330#post_21737000


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Give me a 96hz with optimized timings so i can test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i forgot my 96hz settings


I have actually already posted these timings several times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maegnas*
> 
> So I went and searched through your other posts discussing optimization of the timings and you mentioned to start with what works and work down on the 'total pixels'. Unfortunately it seems I cannot go below 2652 x 1445 at all or I start getting lines or hitting test mode. I know you mentioned you got a DVI cable from monoprice and that helped you get lower - which cable specifically did you get?
> 
> It's also possible I'm misunderstanding the best technique for tuning these timings. What would be the best approach to tuning in order to reduce the uneven uniformity?
> 
> One thing that is confusing to me is that you mention anyone with a pixel clock rate over 450Mhz will have that, however at 96hz the uneven uniformity still exists (though not quite as bad), even though the pixel clock rate is nowhere near 450Mhz. (In my case it is at 386Mhz) I tried playing with the timings at 96hz but have had no success in eliminating the uneven uniformity thus far.
> 
> Thank you for your help.


I am not using the DVI cable from monoprice anymore. I posted previously that i tested around 50 different cables and found that a 2.5ft 24AWG cable i found in a box at work gave the best results. If your panel still shows uneven uniformity at 96hz even with optimized timings that would be a slightly weak panel(at least in terms of color spread). Also, i have done a heatsink mod so my PCB is getting good heat spread, this may or may not make a difference but my panel hardly has any uniformity issues even at 120hz.

450mhz is the highest rated speed for the PCB so it stands to reason that part of the display rendering chain is "OK" being under the rated spec(given your PCB is at least up to standards). Outside of that is going to be related to weak points in the panel. The top right is the most common weakest link of the panel but we have seen other soft spots of lines before.

On average 2652x1444 is the lowest possible total pixel count or "optical black" count that the screen can successfully display at, at any refresh. The rest of the settings can have an effect on uniformity due to the fact it changes the blanking period. (which you will see in previous posts).


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey hammel did you install the colour corrections from the spyder 4 software into dispcal ?....also i notice you have made 4 profiles?....did doing the massive LUT make 4 ICC profiles?....also when you install the profile with dispcal also untick allow the operating system handle the calibration and let the profile loader from dispcal handle your calibration *alone.*...also i calibrated mine at night in my study with all my lights off...did you have any direct light falling on your screen from any light source ?
> 
> Also you having a spyder 4 express would not make any difference as the sensors inside are all the same on all the spyder 4 colorimeters....the difference is within there software...i think the only difference between the pro and elite a ambient light measuring sensors....which really is a complete waste of time anyhow and i never use it.....Btw yes they do look a bit warm (red) on my screen also apart from DUAL-DVI 2014-01-31 D6500 2.2 M-S 3xCurve+MTX which it appears to of corrected the gamma shift at 96hz and i think looks ok it has a slight green tint though....you have to remember all screens are different and what i see will be slightly different from what you see...also we get used to the white point we have been looking at for months on end and any change from a calibration will take time to get used too.
> 
> I would like to know if you imported the color corrections from the spyder 4 software?....also was there any direct light source falling on the screen when calibrated?...also i would like you to calibrating using the spyder express software using a Native white point and a native brightness so we could compare the profiles to dispcal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also dispcal should of told you what brightness your screen was at while calibrating...that measure of brightness should be used with the resulting profiles as thats what they where calibrated at....this screen is capable of a brightness of 300 cd/m which is very bright...i set mine at 200 cd/m which is also faily bright however my study has 6 windows and in the day time i need 200 cd/m...in the summer i may need more!


So have done several other calibration settings yesterday... I imported the corrections from the Spyder4Express setup, and also did the calibration with a completly dark room.
Result: very redish
I dont know what could be wrong... Most of the time, the calibration done with the Spyder4Express Software looks good, and is really not that redish. Grey seems to be a very nice grey. Also i get 99% sRGB colors with Spyder4Express and only 96-98% with dispcal...
I dont know if Amazon accept if i return the Spyder4Express because i already used the serial for the Software... But if they do and the results with dispcal are not getting better, maybe i will order a colormunki to compare the two devices.
Maybe the ColorMunki will give me much better results...

I would like to know how you set up your color temperture... As in dispcal if you check the assistant they are four lines.
Red green blue and the brightness. For optimal results the first three values should be all centered at the line.
There is no osd... So how die you deal with that "setting"? In every calibration i saw they first centered all this values to get a good basis for the calibration...
Thank you.

Edit: tested again with other calibration softwares... Everytime i get a redish tone.
Spyder4Express Software and dispcal, several settings tested everytime red...
Maybe my Spyder4Express is defect?
Ordered a Colormunki right now... Just to compare the two devices.


----------



## MeneerVent

Does anyone know how to prevent the burn in that seems to happen when running high refresh rates?


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Does anyone know how to prevent the burn in that seems to happen when running high refresh rates?


Pretty sure you can't. You can set the refresh rate back to normal and it will go away then re OC it.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> So have done several other calibration settings yesterday... I imported the corrections from the Spyder4Express setup, and also did the calibration with a completly dark room.
> Result: very redish
> I dont know what could be wrong... Most of the time, the calibration done with the Spyder4Express Software looks good, and is really not that redish. Grey seems to be a very nice grey. Also i get 99% sRGB colors with Spyder4Express and only 96-98% with dispcal...
> I dont know if Amazon accept if i return the Spyder4Express because i already used the serial for the Software... But if they do and the results with dispcal are not getting better, maybe i will order a colormunki to compare the two devices.
> Maybe the ColorMunki will give me much better results...
> 
> I would like to know how you set up your color temperture... As in dispcal if you check the assistant they are four lines.
> Red green blue and the brightness. For optimal results the first three values should be all centered at the line.
> There is no osd... So how die you deal with that "setting"? In every calibration i saw they first centered all this values to get a good basis for the calibration...
> Thank you.


Hi Hammel before your calibration in dispcal did you go into options in disposal and hit reset video card gamma table?....we need to make sure that you are calibrating with cards color and gamma tables reset...on our monitors we do not as you know have an OSD which we can set our colour temperature as close to 6500k before calibration or any other colour temperature we may wish to choose....therefore it is best for us to calibrate in native mode....on the spyder software in the colour temperature drop down box this is called native....in dispcal it is call.... "as measured"

Our monitors are very very close to 6500k anyhow....mine is 6551k native which is very good and one of the reasons this monitor has great colours temperatures out of the box. at 60hz....many of the top photographers believe it is better now to calibrate from your monitors native white point now....my setting in dispcal are much as you have seen in the screen shot....

White point i leave as measured...which will not force my monitor to try and produces colours in can not produce....which gives me a far better calibration...and is native at 6551k anyhow
black level as measured
white level as measured
tone curve you should set to Gamma 2.2 relative
i also check compensate for white and black level drift
I also always calibrate to 200 cd/m brightness which is fairly bright as i have 6 windows in my study
Then i used the large LUT test chart patches to calibrate...the whole process took about 3.5 hours and i was very pleased with the results

I basicaslly did a lot of reading about dispacal on there forums and used this instructional you tube by Florian Uhlemann who i believe is the creator of the software to get me going....you will learn a lot about dispacal just by watching the Florian you tube


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi Hammel before your calibration in dispcal did you go into options in disposal and hit reset video card gamma table?....we need to make sure that you are calibrating with cards color and gamma tables reset...on our monitors we do not as you know have an OSD which we can set our colour temperature as close to 6500k before calibration or any other colour temperature we may wish to choose....therefore it is best for us to calibrate in native mode....on the spyder software in the colour temperature drop down box this is called native....in dispcal it is call.... "as measured"
> 
> Our monitors are very very close to 6500k anyhow....mine is 6551k native which is very good and one of the reasons this monitor has great colours temperatures out of the box. at 60hz....many of the top photographers believe it is better now to calibrate from your monitors native white point now....my setting in dispcal are much as you have seen in the screen shot....
> 
> White point i leave as measured...which will not force my monitor to try and produces colours in can not produce....which gives me a far better calibration...and is native at 6551k anyhow
> black level as measured
> white level as measured
> tone curve you should set to Gamma 2.2 relative
> i also check compensate for white and black level drift
> Then i used the large LUT test chart patches to calibrate...the whole process took about 3.5 hours and i was very pleased with the results
> 
> I basicaslly did a lot of reading about dispacal on there forums and used this instructional you tube by Florian Uhlemann who i believe is the creator of the software to get me going....you will learn a lot about dispacal just by watching the Florian you tube


Thanks for your answer lawson.
Yes i do have reset everything to stock settings and chose the exact settings as you.
The screen looks very redish after all...
I will post some pictures of that redish grey in a few minutes.
Possible that my Spyder4Express is defect?
I tried everything thats possible, every setting in Spyder4Express software, tons of profiles with dispcal, everytime reset the gpu gamma table and so on.

Ordered a ColorMunki now, maybe i will cancel the order and order a xrite i1 display pro, only with that you can use basICColor display 5...
But i think because it's the same hardware a colormunki + dispcal will give me accurate results.
So i think i will wait until the ColorMunki arrives and see how well it performs in terms of grey tones....
Maybe i have just a faulty unit with my Spyder4Express? Or there are significant differents between the Spyder4Express and Spyder4pro, but i dont think so...

Here are some comparisons between three profiles:

QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file




The Spyder4Express software profile:

Spyder4Express.zip 2k .zip file




Your profile (lawson):

SamsungQnixQX2710LED-96hzday200cdm.zip 2k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeneerVent*
> 
> Does anyone know how to prevent the burn in that seems to happen when running high refresh rates?


Hi i run 120hz 24/7 and i can honestly say i have not noticed any image retention or any burn in affects....this maybe due to the fact i have set in windows 8.1 the ribbons screen saver to kick in after 7 minutes if i am not at my computor


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Thanks for your answer lawson.
> Yes i do have reset everything to stock settings and chose the exact settings as you.
> The screen looks very redish after all...
> I will post some pictures of that redish grey in a few minutes.
> Possible that my Spyder4Express is defect?
> I tried everything thats possible, every setting in Spyder4Express software, tons of profiles with dispcal, everytime reset the gpu gamma table and so on.
> 
> Ordered a ColorMunki now, maybe i will cancel the order and order a xrite i1 display pro, only with that you can use basICColor display 5...
> But i think because it's the same hardware a colormunki + dispcal will give me accurate results.
> So i think i will wait until the ColorMunki arrives and see how well it performs in terms of grey tones....
> Maybe i have just a faulty unit with my Spyder4Express? Or there are significant differents between the Spyder4Express and Spyder4pro, but i dont think so...
> 
> Here are some comparisons between three profiles:
> 
> QNIXQX2710-96hz-updated.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Spyder4Express software profile:
> 
> Spyder4Express.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your profile (lawson):
> 
> SamsungQnixQX2710LED-96hzday200cdm.zip 2k .zip file


Yes i find it hard to explane as to why you are getting such different results to myself....as i have read and so therefore been lead to believe there is no difference with the spyder 4 colour sensors the only difference being is that the pro and elite have the ambient light sensor....which is a waste of time anyhow i believe....as for your spyder 4 i here datacolor have great support maybe ask then if they can help you test for any defects?


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i find it hard to explane as to why you are getting such different results to myself....as i have read and so therefore been lead to believe there is no difference with the spyder 4 colour sensors the only difference being is that the pro and elite have the ambient light sensor....which is a waste of time anyhow i believe....as for your spyder 4 i here datacolor have great support maybe ask then if they can help you test for any defects?


Therefore i could send the Spyder back to amazon and take the ColorMunki...
Lets see if it has the same results as the Spyder...

I also thought about to get a Xrite i1 display pro with the basiccolor display 5 software... But i think thats a bit overkill for a standard PC user that has nothing to do with photos or video editing...
ColorMunki seems to have a better sensor than the Spyder 4 in terms of black measurement... The overall quality seems a bit better cause it's the same Sensors as the xrite i1 pro (which is also said at the dispcalGUI website)...
I could only explain the results with a faulty unit of the Spyder4Express...
ColorMunki would be 50€ more expensive but then i can also calibrate my projector... So if the colors are much better for me then with the Spyder it's Not that bad of a deal...
But as you can see, my profiles are very bad in terms of black levels and overall quality. Your profile instead is very good.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Also, i have done a heatsink mod so my PCB is getting good heat spread, this may or may not make a difference but my panel hardly has any uniformity issues even at 120hz


.

I am curious to know if you checked the temperature of the PCB board at 60hz and then at 120hz before you did the heatsink mod?... also have you checked the temperature of your PCB after your heatsink mod to see what if any effect your mod had on the PCB board temperature?....also as we don't raise the voltage to overclock these monitors i am wondering why any heatsink mod would make a difference to anything?... running at 60hz or 120hz should not affect the PCB Board temperature without added voltage?


----------



## Jman7309

Has anyone experienced an issue where your monitor shows horizontal white lines (seems like bleed-through, not actual pixel defects) on black images? I just got my monitor three days ago and it is perfect other than this issue and some minor bleeding in the corners.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jman7309*
> 
> Has anyone experienced an issue where your monitor shows horizontal white lines (seems like bleed-through, not actual pixel defects) on black images? I just got my monitor three days ago and it is perfect other than this issue and some minor bleeding in the corners.


Yup, might be an issue with panel itself as I was toying around with it in my hand they would randomly appear/disappear/darken, managed to get rid of them a bit but not completely....

Contacted overclockmonitor.com about warranty.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Therefore i could send the Spyder back to amazon and take the ColorMunki...
> Lets see if it has the same results as the Spyder...
> 
> I also thought about to get a Xrite i1 display pro with the basiccolor display 5 software... But i think thats a bit overkill for a standard PC user that has nothing to do with photos or video editing...
> ColorMunki seems to have a better sensor than the Spyder 4 in terms of black measurement... The overall quality seems a bit better cause it's the same Sensors as the xrite i1 pro (which is also said at the dispcalGUI website)...
> I could only explain the results with a faulty unit of the Spyder4Express...
> ColorMunki would be 50€ more expensive but then i can also calibrate my projector... So if the colors are much better for me then with the Spyder it's Not that bad of a deal...
> But as you can see, my profiles are very bad in terms of black levels and overall quality. Your profile instead is very good.


Yes it would be interesting anyhow to see what if any difference there was between the Spyder 4 and the ColorMunki calibration anyhow...and if you have a projector it would also be the better one to have...i don't know if dispcalGUI support calibration of a projector?....it is worth noting though that calibrating a monitor is basically to photographers a reference point to work with there images from so they know that what they see on there screen is what will be produced when printing....some photographers calibrate to a white point of 5000k which is very warm indeed compared to 6500k and could make someone that wrongly believes every calibration should look the same as a 6500k colour temperature calibration..... and so therefore thinking there colorimeter must be defective....which it is not!...it has purely calibrated to the photographers chosen white point temperature!



The image above shows eight blocks of grey tints, with a pure white stripe running across the middle. The numbers on each block show the pixel value that block contains. (That is, the block labeled 251 has red, green, and blue pixel values of 251, 251, 251.)

On a perfectly calibrated monitor, you'd be able to distinguish (if only just barely) the difference between the white central row and the block labeled 254. More typically, a "good" monitor would let you see the boundary between the center row and the 250 or 251 block.

Edit: you could of calibrated to a 5000k white point colour temperature and still have a perfectly calibrated monitor and you would still see the difference between the white blocks in the picture above.....Then you could switch to your 6500k colour temperature ICC profile which would look like a totally different tint across your screen...in fact it would look like you had a blueish green tint from the 5000k very warm reddish tint temperature ..but you would still have a perfectly good calibrated monitor but its just calibrated to a differnt white point tempeture however you would still be able to see the difference between the white tint above


----------



## st00ky

Need some advise here. My CPU onboard graphics came with dual link DVI-D. I am thinking of getting the Qnix QX2710 and I just want to confirm if the monitor will be able to work with my onboard graphics?


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *st00ky*
> 
> Need some advise here. My CPU onboard graphics came with dual link DVI-D. I am thinking of getting the Qnix QX2710 and I just want to confirm if the monitor will be able to work with my onboard graphics?


No


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *st00ky*
> 
> Need some advise here. My CPU onboard graphics came with dual link DVI-D. I am thinking of getting the Qnix QX2710 and I just want to confirm if the monitor will be able to work with my onboard graphics?


Hi I believe On-board graphics can not support duel link WQHD.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Yes it would be interesting anyhow to see what if any difference there was between the Spyder 4 and the ColorMunki calibration anyhow...and if you have a projector it would also be the better one to have...i don't know if dispcalGUI support calibration of a projector?....it is worth noting though that calibrating a monitor is basically to photographers a reference point to work with there images from so they know that what they see on there screen is what will be produced when printing....some photographers calibrate to a white point of 5000k which is very warm indeed compared to 6500k and could make someone that wrongly believes every calibration should look the same as a 6500k colour temperature calibration..... and so therefore thinking there colorimeter must be defective....which it is not!...it has purely calibrated to the photographers chosen white point temperature!
> 
> 
> 
> The image above shows eight blocks of grey tints, with a pure white stripe running across the middle. The numbers on each block show the pixel value that block contains. (That is, the block labeled 251 has red, green, and blue pixel values of 251, 251, 251.)
> 
> On a perfectly calibrated monitor, you'd be able to distinguish (if only just barely) the difference between the white central row and the block labeled 254. More typically, a "good" monitor would let you see the boundary between the center row and the 250 or 251 block.
> 
> Edit: you could of calibrated to a 5000k white point colour temperature and still have a perfectly calibrated monitor and you would still see the difference between the white blocks in the picture above.....Then you could switch to your 6500k colour temperature ICC profile which would look like a totally different tint across your screen...in fact it would look like you had a blueish green tint from the 5000k very warm reddish tint temperature ..but you would still have a perfectly good calibrated monitor but its just calibrated to a differnt white point tempeture however you would still be able to see the difference between the white tint above


That makes sense to me...
But i dont think that the result should look like my.
Everyone knows how grey has to look like and thats definitly not red like this. It should look like the first picture or like your profile...
Every other profile i installed have at least good grey tones...

As i heard the ColorMunki should be a bit better then the Spyder4Pro... But i would like to see if a Spyder4Pro would have better results in calibration...
The xrite i1 display pro looks so nice... But i know it has be the same sensor as the ColorMunki. 50€ more for maybe 2x faster calibration and the ambient light color measurement thing and also the ability to use basiccolor display 5 software... But normally i doesn't need this features...

The Spyder4Pro looks also very nice from what i heard the last days... But as someone claimed here the ColorMunki has the overall "better" sensor...

Hard decision i have to say... Give the Spyder4Pro a try or the ColorMunki Display?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> That makes sense to me...
> But i dont think that the result should look like my.
> Everyone knows how grey has to look like and thats definitly not red like this. It should look like the first picture or like your profile...
> Every other profile i installed have at least good grey tones...
> 
> As i heard the ColorMunki should be a bit better then the Spyder4Pro... But i would like to see if a Spyder4Pro would have better results in calibration...
> The xrite i1 display pro looks so nice... But i know it has be the same sensor as the ColorMunki. 50€ more for maybe 2x faster calibration and the ambient light color measurement thing and also the ability to use basiccolor display 5 software... But normally i doesn't need this features...
> 
> The Spyder4Pro looks also very nice from what i heard the last days... But as someone claimed here the ColorMunki has the overall "better" sensor...
> 
> Hard decision i have to say... Give the Spyder4Pro a try or the ColorMunki Display?


Have your tried checking your colours in colour controlled environment that will use your ICC profile something like Photoshop?...remember if looking at the desktop or looking at colours in any program/software that does not have ICC profile support and you applied your new ICC profile you would only see the changes of the affect of the profile being loaded....for instance...if you was looking at the desktop and you applied your profile you would only see the hue Gamma and white point change....this would NOT affect the colours on the desktop or in any application that did not support the use of colour profiles...for example,

I use Chrome for the internet but for a long time the only browser that supported ICC colour profiles was Firefox.....if you have Photoshop or light room it would be helpful to check your colours in there as it will be using and correcting your colours from your ICC profile


----------



## Andros_Forever

Getting a Polarizer Film replacement for my Qnix qx2710 off this link http://store.lcdparts.net/MS32FILM0D_p_2881.html I am wondering which "degree angle film" I am supposed to choose?


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Have your tried checking your colours in colour controlled environment that will use your ICC profile something like Photoshop?...remember if looking at the desktop or looking at colours in any program/software that does not have ICC profile support and you applied your new ICC profile you would only see the changes of the affect of the profile being loaded....for instance...if you was looking at the desktop and you applied your profile you would only see the hue Gamma and white point change....this would NOT affect the colours on the desktop or in any application that did not support the use of colour profiles...for example,
> 
> I use Chrome for the internet but for a long time the only browser that supported ICC colour profiles was Firefox.....if you have Photoshop or light room it would be helpful to check your colours in there as they will be using and correcting your colours from your ICC profile


But if i use Color Profile Keeper, then every program should use my ICC profile doesnt it?
But nevermind it makes no difference if i load my profile with windows itself, with dispcal or wir color profile keeper, in every program and also with photoshop, everything looks really really red.
The whole photoshop "layout" (that black background thats around the picture) looks massively red.
The other profiles i uploaded some post before where very good and barely no redish screen.
I just did another profile with the Spyder4Express software, also redish.
I really dont know what could be the problem, i will install the Spyder on another pc in a couple of hours and with a different Qnix from my girlfriend...
If theres also a redish screen, then the colorimeter must be a faulty unit... What else should it be instead of a faulty device?...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> But if i use Color Profile Keeper, then every program should use my ICC profile doesnt it?
> But nevermind it makes no difference if i load my profile with windows itself, with dispcal or wir color profile keeper, in every program and also with photoshop, everything looks really really red.
> The whole photoshop "layout" (that black background thats around the picture) looks massively red.
> The other profiles i uploaded some post before where very good and barely no redish screen.
> I just did another profile with the Spyder4Express software, also redish.
> I really dont know what could be the problem, i will install the Spyder on another pc in a couple of hours and with a different Qnix from my girlfriend...
> If theres also a redish screen, then the colorimeter must be a faulty unit... What else should it be instead of a faulty device?...


I don't think Color Profile Keeper works that way....i don't believe Color Profile Keeper can force software that was not written to support colour profiles to suddenly support them...i think what it does is it trys NOT to allow any program or software to reset the cards colour/ gamma profile (which is your loaded ICC profile)....so that it can not be reset which windows will allow to happen if some applications want this...like the game.. "Metro last light" ..which needs to reset the cards gamma profile to apply its own profile so that the game can be displayed as the makers intended but Color Profile Keeper would NOT allow this so the game would artefact and lock up!.... windows would of allowed "Metro last light" to reset the cards Gamma but windows is very unreliable at re-applying ICC profiles once they have been dropped and this i believe would be the main reason the author of Color Profile Keeper wrote it?....but i could be wrong!

Edit: i use dispcalGUI profile loader to handle my ICC profile as it does a great job...it allows "Metro last light" to reset my Gamma when needed...and it will re-apply it when i close the game...other games i like to play like world of tanks use my ICC profile gamma ramps at 120hz automaticly and perfectly in full screen mode without any software forcing it to do so.


----------



## lawson67

BTW a long while back i read someone had a problem with there Qnix monitor and one of the sellers.. "i am guessing the one he bought if off"..sent him a new PCB board and asked him to try it to see if that cured the problem he was having....now from what i have read the MONEX M27QSM QHD SAMSUNG PLS Panel Monitor uses the same panel as the Qnix....also according to NCX they have a far better build quality than the Qnix.....NCX also says the MONEX does not overclock even though it has no scaler and accepts the higher hz but it just black screens when applying them!...

This surly has to be that it must use a different PCB board to that of the Qnix....Also the price of a true glossy Qnix is stupidly high....now believing that the MONEX uses the same panel as the Qnix i am thinking weather i can get a MONEX and then get a Qnix PCB board from one of the sellers and then replace the one in the MONEX with the new Qnix PCB and have an overclockable glossy MONEX!.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawould 7*
> 
> I don't think Color Profile Keeper works that way....i don't believe Color Profile Keeper can force software that was not written to support colour profiles to suddenly support them...i think what it does is it trys NOT allow any program or software to reset the cards colour/ gamma profile (which is your loaded ICC profile)....so that it can not be reset which windows will allow to happen if some applications want this...like the game.. "Metro last light" ..which needs to reset the cards gamma profile to apply its own profile so that the game can be displayed as the makers intended but Color Profile Keeper would NOT allow this so the game would artefact and lock up!.... windows would of allowed "Metro last light" to reset the cards Gamma but windows is very unreliable at re-applying ICC profiles once they have been dropped and this i believe would be the main reason the author of Color Profile Keeper wrote it?....but i could be wrong!
> 
> Edit: i use dispcalGUI profile loader to handle my ICC profile as it does a great job...it allows "Metro last light" to reset my Gamma when needed...and it will re-apply it when i close the game...other games i like to play like world of tanks use my ICC profile gamma ramps at 120hz automaticly and perfectly in full screen mode without any software forcing it to do so.


Yeah i also used dispcal to handle my profiles... But as i said it makes absolutely no difference how i load my calibrated profiles, everytime the monitor looks awfull...
Theres a review of the qnix of Fabelhaft NCX where he offers some profiles with either sRGB gamut or 2.2 both seems to be calibrated with the basICColor display 5 software (but dont know which colorimeter he used) but both profiles are looking very nice and not redish at all.
And also with the Spyder4Express software (which obviously should use the ICC profile) the last panel with before and after results is looking horrible red.
The whole window looks before very grey - black and after it's very red.
Just for research it would be nice to see if the Spyder4Pro would give me similar results like the Spyder4Express...
The Spyder4Pro seems to achieve good results as seen with your profile, but for the same value i can buy a Colormunki Display...
In Reviews there are only comparisons between them using the original software and not dispcal + argyll...
When rassig the value even higher i would prefer the Xrite i1 display pro over the Spyder4Elite... But thats so much money for only a gamma corrections...
What would you do? Buy a ColorMunki Display, a Spyder4Pro, a Xrite i1 display pro, another Spyder4Express to see if it's only a faulty unit or even a completly different device?
As i said it would be a Option to calibrate my projector too...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Yeah i also used dispcal to handle my profiles... But as i said it makes absolutely no difference how i load my calibrated profiles, everytime the monitor looks awfull...
> Theres a review of the qnix of Fabelhaft NCX where he offers some profiles with either sRGB gamut or 2.2 both seems to be calibrated with the basICColor display 5 software (but dont know which colorimeter he used) but both profiles are looking very nice and not redish at all.
> And also with the Spyder4Express software (which obviously should use the ICC profile) the last panel with before and after results is looking horrible red.
> The whole window looks before very grey - black and after it's very red.
> Just for research it would be nice to see if the Spyder4Pro would give me similar results like the Spyder4Express...
> The Spyder4Pro seems to achieve good results as seen with your profile, but for the same value i can buy a Colormunki Display...
> In Reviews there are only comparisons between them using the original software and not dispcal + argyll...
> When rassig the value even higher i would prefer the Xrite i1 display pro over the Spyder4Elite... But thats so much money for only a gamma corrections...
> What would you do? Buy a ColorMunki Display, a Spyder4Pro, a Xrite i1 display pro, another Spyder4Express to see if it's only a faulty unit or even a completly different device?
> As i said it would be a Option to calibrate my projector too...


I really do not know what to suggest as everything i have read says the sensor in the spyder 4 devices are the same the only difference being is in the software...so if i said go and buy a spyder 4 pro i would think i would be wasting your time and money...if i had of done my research before i bought my spider 4 pro and known about dispcal i would of bought a spyder 4 express instead...however for peace of mind maybe i would swap it for the colour monkey if i had double checked all of my settings and truly believed i had a defective spyder 4

Also as i said earlier Datacolor has great support...if you have done a profile using the spyder 4 express software does it look bad?.....if so asK datacolor why its calibrating like this....also please don't worry that you have opened the CD and used the serial number for the spyder 4 express thinking they wont take it back i cant believe that would happen...in the UK they would have no choice but to take it back...also if you are going to ask Datacolor for some help i would do it soon like tomorrow.

Also as for when you say ....
Theres a review of the qnix of Fabelhaft NCX where he offers some profiles with either sRGB gamut or 2.2 both seems to be calibrated with the basICColor display 5 software (but dont know which colorimeter he used)

I think i can answer this....this is taken for his uncompleted MONEX review...From NCX,

*All testing done using an i1 Display Pro Colorimeter (a colorimeter measures the colours, contrast, brightness, gamma, ect), basICColor 5 (used to measure the color presets and for calibration), dispcalGUI (used for calibration)*


----------



## Anton149

Is there any reports on the Qnix's lifespand? Am I fine with OC'ing it to 96hz without problems?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton149*
> 
> Is there any reports on the Qnix's lifespand? Am I fine with OC'ing it to 96hz without problems?


The life span of the Qnix i believe should be that of any other monitor...we know it uses a very good quality Samsung pls screen even though A- grade...however that's mostly because of back light bleeding and some come with a few dead pixels...i bought a pixel perfect monitor from accessorieswhole and it arrived at my house 4 days later with no dead pixels just some bad back light bleed which was because it was sat in a bent frame...once i striped it down and straightened the frame my BLB was 100% fixed.

As for overclocking it and its life span who knows...i run mine at 120hz 24/7 and do not believe for one minute that i am damaging it in any way...as we do not need to raise the voltage to overclock these monitors so it stands to reason we are overheating any component..... therefore we are *NOT* adding voltage it was not designed to take or running it at a temperature it was not designed to withstand...its my personal opinion that it will last as long as any other branded monitor


----------



## cookieboyeli

Will you guys post a set of "Final" profiles for different brightness levels and 96/120Hz eventually? I'm only asking because there are a lot of profiles around and I have no freaking clue what to use as everyone is in the middle of troubleshooting.
I've been switching between 96 and 120 because my 120 isn't consistently valid on testufo.com (I've tried TONS of timings). And and I get stuttering.

Also, are profiles able to counteract the bottom of the screen being darker than the top? It's really pronounced at 120Hz.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> Will you guys post a set of "Final" profiles for different brightness levels and 96/120Hz eventually? I'm only asking because there are a lot of profiles around and I have no freaking clue what to use as everyone is in the middle of troubleshooting.
> I've been switching between 96 and 120 because my 120 is consistently valid on testufo.com (I've tried TONS of timings). And and I get stuttering.
> 
> Also, are profiles able to counteract the bottom of the screen being darker than the top? It's really pronounced at 120Hz.


Many users have reported that they like my ICC profiles which correct the higher Gamma shift (darker screen) on these monitor that are overclocked....a properly calibrated ICC profile at 120hz or 96hz can fully correct the higher Gamma shift on these monitors once overclocked

120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


BTW there is no trouble shooting going on with the above profiles they are calibrated perfectly fine


----------



## cookieboyeli

Ahh so I've been doing it wrong. How many clicks up brightness are these?

EDIT: I just tried these, but 96Hz is extremely bluish tinted compared to 120. There's no way it's correct.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I really do not know what to suggest as everything i have read says the sensor in the spyder 4 devices are the same the only difference being is in the software...so if i said go and buy a spyder 4 pro i would think i would be wasting your time and money...if i had of done my research before i bought my spider 4 pro and known about dispcal i would of bought a spyder 4 express instead...however for peace of mind maybe i would swap it for the colour monkey if i had double checked all of my settings and truly believed i had a defective spyder 4
> 
> Also as i said earlier Datacolor has great support...if you have done a profile using the spyder 4 express software does it look bad?.....if so asK datacolor why its calibrating like this....also please don't worry that you have opened the CD and used the serial number for the spyder 4 express thinking they wont take it back i cant believe that would happen...in the UK they would have no choice but to take it back...also if you are going to ask Datacolor for some help i would do it soon like tomorrow.
> 
> Also as for when you say ....
> Theres a review of the qnix of Fabelhaft NCX where he offers some profiles with either sRGB gamut or 2.2 both seems to be calibrated with the basICColor display 5 software (but dont know which colorimeter he used)
> 
> I think i can answer this....this is taken for his uncompleted MONEX review...From NCX,
> 
> *All testing done using an i1 Display Pro Colorimeter (a colorimeter measures the colours, contrast, brightness, gamma, ect), basICColor 5 (used to measure the color presets and for calibration), dispcalGUI (used for calibration)*


Well okay. I will definitly return the Spyder4Express...
Dont know which i will get now... ColorMunki Display is a very good deal for the value, and especially when using ColorMunki and xrite i1 display pro with dispcal and argyll there "should" be no difference (also claimed at dispcal website)...
So i think i will wait until the ColorMunki arrives and then doing some testing...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> Ahh so I've been doing it wrong. How many clicks up brightness are these?


18 clicks up from a black screen at 120hz....17 clicks up at 96hz


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> Ahh so I've been doing it wrong. How many clicks up brightness are these?
> 
> EDIT: I just tried these, but 96Hz is extremely bluish tinted compared to 120. There's no way it's correct.


Maybe i could recalibrate someday using dispcalGUI which is the same software i made the 120hz profile with...however i do not plan on doing that any time soon as it takes 3.5 hours to complete... also due to the fact i only run at 120hz and am happy with my 96hz profile i made with the spyder 4 pro software....also most have said they also like my 96hz profile as it is....so its not high on my agenda right now sorry


----------



## Anton149

Thanks lawson, that actually sounds pretty awesome. And it must be true that it lasts just as long as any other branded model since.. Well, this is almost a branded model, but it had some errors! Which specific model do you own?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton149*
> 
> Thanks lawson, that actually sounds pretty awesome. And it must be true that it lasts just as long as any other branded model since.. Well, this is almost a branded model, but it had some errors! Which specific model do you own?


I bought the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel....and i could not be happier with the quality of the screen or the way it overclocks...for only £200.00 i am delighted with it


----------



## Andros_Forever

Getting a Polarizer Film replacement for my Qnix qx2710 off this site http://store.lcdparts.net/MS32FILM0D_p_2881.html I am wondering which "degree angle film" I am supposed to choose? I have damaged my polarizer film that was on the monitor originally and am looking to replace it with one from that website. Any help or insight would be appreciated.


----------



## nms43

For anyone who's on the fence about getting a matte screen and getting tempted by the glossy panels as I was...

I couldn't be happier I got the matte. SO NICE and never have to worry about any glare. Also, as has been mentioned, there are no true glossy ones anymore.. just a matte screen with tempered glass on top.

This monitor really does look amazing.


----------



## Anton149

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I bought the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel....and i could not be happier with the quality of the screen or the way it overclocks...for only £200.00 i am delighted with it


Oh, that is the exact model that I've been looking at! It's so tempting to just pull the trigger and get this beast for my first build, where it's going to be paired with a GTX 780!

Which seller did you get it from? I have looked at accessorieswhole, but I'm not sure if he is the best in terms of service and price. Also, how long did it take to arrive? As far as I can see, you are from the UK and I'll be ordering from Denmark, so the shipping probably takes somewhat equal time! Thanks for the help so far!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nms43*
> 
> For anyone who's on the fence about getting a matte screen and getting tempted by the glossy panels as I was...
> 
> I couldn't be happier I got the matte. SO NICE and never have to worry about any glare. Also, as has been mentioned, there are no true glossy ones anymore.. just a matte screen with tempered glass on top.
> 
> This monitor really does look amazing.


I second all of the Above..


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> BTW a long while back i read someone had a problem with there Qnix monitor and one of the sellers.. "i am guessing the one he bought if off"..sent him a new PCB board and asked him to try it to see if that cured the problem he was having....now from what i have read the MONEX M27QSM QHD SAMSUNG PLS Panel Monitor uses the same panel as the Qnix....also according to NCX they have a far better build quality than the Qnix.....NCX also says the MONEX does not overclock even though it has no scaler and accepts the higher hz but it just black screens when applying them!...
> 
> This surly has to be that it must use a different PCB board to that of the Qnix....Also the price of a true glossy Qnix is stupidly high....now believing that the MONEX uses the same panel as the Qnix i am thinking weather i can get a MONEX and then get a Qnix PCB board from one of the sellers and then replace the one in the MONEX with the new Qnix PCB and have an overclockable glossy MONEX!.


You could just buy one of these

http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/accessories/products/overlord-pcb-set

Kind of expensive, but still much cheaper than a Qnix glossy.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton149*
> 
> Oh, that is the exact model that I've been looking at! It's so tempting to just pull the trigger and get this beast for my first build, where it's going to be paired with a GTX 780!
> 
> Which seller did you get it from? I have looked at accessorieswhole, but I'm not sure if he is the best in terms of service and price. Also, how long did it take to arrive? As far as I can see, you are from the UK and I'll be ordering from Denmark, so the shipping probably takes somewhat equal time! Thanks for the help so far!


I bought mine from accessorieswhole and it took 4 days to arrive and i was hit with £35 import tax duty's from her majesty's custom officials...i was happy to pay only £35 i was expecting more.


----------



## Anton149

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I bought mine from accessorieswhole and it took 4 days to arrive and i was hit with £35 import tax duty's from her majesty's custom officials...i was happy to pay only £35 i was expecting more.


Even more tempting.. I got 3 more questions though. First if all, do you believe in the pixel-perfect thing that they say about some of the monitors and then puts a price premium? Do you have any dead/stuck pixels? And finally, was it easy to remove the backlight bleeding?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> You could just buy one of these
> 
> http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/accessories/products/overlord-pcb-set
> 
> Kind of expensive, but still much cheaper than a Qnix glossy.


Hmm i don't think for one minute i would pay that kind of money for a PCB board...for nearly the same money i could buy a new Qnix with a overclockable PCB board already inside it... and keep the brand new screen that i get with the new monitor as a spare for mine...i was rather thinking that seeing as the Qnix monitor is only around £200 it would hopefully stand to reason that i could get a new PCB board faily cheap and try to install it into the monex...this would be more as a project just to see if it would work more than anything else.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton149*
> 
> Even more tempting.. I got 3 more questions though. First if all, do you believe in the pixel-perfect thing that they say about some of the monitors and then puts a price premium? Do you have any dead/stuck pixels? And finally, was it easy to remove the backlight bleeding?


I thought like this when i bought mine...accessorieswhole was the only seller that was guaranteeing not one dead pixels...so i bought off of him thinking and knowing i could not live with one dead pixel...so if it came with any dead pixels from his description alone of the monitor i would have ebay on my side and i would never lose any of my money....and if it had any dead pixels there would not be any kind of issue with stupid arguments he would just have to take it back...sorted

Do i believe he/they check the monitors i don't know and no one is ever going to know....but i know one thing if it came with a dead pixel i know he would be taking it back...and if enough people did that to him he would age a lot faster i am sure....

To fix my backlight bleed...i believe from the reading i have done that all if not most of these monitors have back light bleed...some with dead/stuck pixels and back light bleed...i believe that 99.9% have back lightbleed because they are sat in a bent metal frame as mine was...is it hard to fix?....no not at all a little bit self belief and my guide and some confidence along with taking your time and it is an easy fix and you can fix it 100% ....and then you have a £800 GRADE A+ monitor for only £200 and an abundance of self satisfaction


----------



## thrgk

what profile do you recommend for qnix dvi27inch 1440 monitor oced to 120hz? I want a profile for mostly gaming. I wasnt sure which to use from the OP, if you could post a link thatd be great
thanks


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> what profile do you recommend for qnix dvi27inch 1440 monitor oced to 120hz? I want a profile for mostly gaming. I wasnt sure which to use from the OP, if you could post a link thatd be great
> thanks


There really is no such thing as a gaming profile...a ICC profile is the results of a calibration to a screen which the user has selected a specific colour temperature (white point) to calibrate his screen too... or he has used the screens native white point to calibrate too....the calibration will correct the colours and higher Gamma shifts ( darker screen ) that are seen once the monitor is overclocked....the 120hz profile below is is a good 120hz calibration

120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


----------



## tomka

Hello guys,

yesterday I got my Qnix QX2710 Evo II SE single input from seller accessorieswhole.

I couldn't find any bad pixels but I would like to ask if any of you experienced strange thick lines mostly visible only on black color or really dark color on stock frequency. On black parts of pictures and with high brightness, this becomes very disturbing. It is visible only on the right side of the LCD and visibility rises with user looking more from the bottom of the LCD (like when you have eyes in height of lower QNIX logo). Lines are there during bios and start up too.

Is this a defect and I should return it? Can it be caused by some HW, cable (tried two but low cost ones), geforce 560 ti, power cables, SW settings?

Here is the short video of the defect:


----------



## thrgk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> There really is no such thing as a gaming profile...a ICC profile is the results of a calibration to a screen which the user has selected a specific colour temperature (white point) to calibrate his screen too... or he has used the screens native white point to calibrate too....the calibration will correct the colours and higher Gamma shifts ( darker screen ) that are seen once the monitor is overclocked....the 120hz profile below is is a good 120hz calibration
> 
> 120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


just download it, and go to color management, search for it as set as default profile?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> just download it, and go to color management, search for it as set as default profile?


1:Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
2:Select the display you want.
3:Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
4:Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
5:Click "ok"
6:Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
7:Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
8:Click on the new "advanced" tab and click "Use Windows Display Calibration".


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomka*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> yesterday I got my Qnix QX2710 Evo II SE single input from seller accessorieswhole.
> 
> I couldn't find any bad pixels but I would like to ask if any of you experienced strange thick lines mostly visible only on black color or really dark color on stock frequency. On black parts of pictures and with high brightness, this becomes very disturbing. It is visible only on the right side of the LCD and visibility rises with user looking more from the bottom of the LCD (like when you have eyes in height of lower QNIX logo). Lines are there during bios and start up too.
> 
> Is this a defect and I should return it? Can it be caused by some HW, cable (tried two but low cost ones), geforce 560 ti, power cables, SW settings?
> 
> Here is the short video of the defect:


I could not see thick lines i could only see what looked like backlight bleed to me


----------



## thrgk

thx


----------



## tomka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I could not see thick lines i could only see what looked like backlight bleed to me


You can't see sharp lines like from overclocking, it is more like lines on analog tv when signal is not good. Please, watch 1080p version on youtube. These lines are only on the right side. Maybe you can think this is common when recording monitor screen, but these are very visible with normal eyes


----------



## renji1337

I need to find a spyder4 to rent -_- lol


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Got the new QNIX Q2710 Matte. No dead pixels







. Didn't check OC yet. Loaded a 60 Hz color profile from page 1 and it looks good... Very happy with purchase.

Buyer : accessorieswhole. Delivered within 3 days to Singapore...
Price : 359 SGD (around 283 USD)
Source :Qoo10


----------



## digitalforce

Anyone know why the glossy Qnix is double the cost of the matte? I love my matte but I like the black and color pop of the glossy.. unless someone has tested both and can say otherwise.


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Anyone know why the glossy Qnix is double the cost of the matte? I love my matte but I like the black and color pop of the glossy.. unless someone has tested both and can say otherwise.


Where did you see that. Its the same cost. Bought one recently and seller offered me matte and tempered glass (glossy) or same price (283 USD) and the SE version which has a higher dead pixel policy for 275 USD.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnie_gogs*
> 
> Where did you see that. Its the same cost. Bought one recently and seller offered me matte and tempered glass (glossy) or same price (283 USD) and the SE version which has a higher dead pixel policy for 275 USD.


Perfect glossy are over $600.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Qnix+QX2710+glossy+perfect


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Wow ebay prices have really gone up. I used Qoo10 and got little better prices but I cant seem to fine the glossy pixel perfect one. Matter pixel perfect is $ 395. But I thought paying for pixel perfect does not guarantee no dead pixels. It just marks up the price. You can get the non pixel perfect and take your chances for $300

http://list.qoo10.com/item/QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-LL-MATTE/410946607


----------



## digitalforce

So can anyone comment on Qnix matte vs tempered glass vs glossy? I had a glossy Yamakasi Catleap and it was GORGEOUS but I haven't heard any comparisons on the Qnix.

PS -- I currently own a Qnix Matte and it rocks but I always thought glossy screens looked a bit better on black levels and color pop.

STRANGE -- It looks like the only glossy models have DPORT which I am assuming they can't overclock..


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnie_gogs*
> 
> Wow ebay prices have really gone up. I used Qoo10 and got little better prices but I cant seem to fine the glossy pixel perfect one. Matter pixel perfect is $ 395. But I thought paying for pixel perfect does not guarantee no dead pixels. It just marks up the price. You can get the non pixel perfect and take your chances for $300
> 
> http://list.qoo10.com/item/QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-LL-MATTE/410946607


I depends on the seller, there is someone on ebay with a higher priced perfect pixel that is guaranteed zero dead pixels. Takes the price to around $390. You really have to read the sellers info, most say perfect but still consider 0-1 to be perfect. I think that's BS, perfect to me means zero.


----------



## Jetlitheone

So me and like 6 other people on here have reported white lines on their displays. Its a defect people! Return it I would not deal with it. It seems this piece of crap SE version are like c- panels. Not worth saving the 20-40$ over non SE version. Not ordering from Accessorieswhole anymore. What a joke.


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Yeah these monitors are great but it depends on luck... It should be called LCD lottery... Happy that I got a perfect panel. Same seller accessorieswhole. Non SE panel for 283 and delivered within 3 days I was surprised on how fast they send it across... Even local sellers take 3 or more days to deliver something.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnie_gogs*
> 
> Yeah these monitors are great but it depends on luck... It should be called LCD lottery... Happy that I got a perfect panel. Same seller accessorieswhole. Non SE panel for 283 and delivered within 3 days I was surprised on how luck the send it across... Even local sellers take 3 or more days to deliver something.


the SE panel is the one with issues it seems ..


----------



## wrxxx

which models can overclock? im looking to get one and want one that can do over 60hz


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrxxx*
> 
> which models can overclock? im looking to get one and want one that can do over 60hz


People have been overclocking the QNIX Q2710.


----------



## Spartan F8

I think someone did not read the OP


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I think someone did not read the OP


Thats not very nice, I can skip reading things better than anyone.


----------



## wrxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I think someone did not read the OP


read the overclock tab not faq's







found it. so single input monitors work?


----------



## tangosmango

I have my ps3 hooked up via HDMI and monitor via DVI. I'm trying to get my setup so I can switch between ps3 and PC but my monitor does not have a 'source switch' button (I have a Korean monitor, DP2710LED). There's no button on the monitor itself to switch sources or anything or that sort...

Is there any way I can allow my setup to seamlessly change between my two sources? I read that a 'switch box' will do the trick but I'm not sure exactly what to look for when trying to buy one.

Graphics card: GTX 770


----------



## karms

Thanks to my readings here, I purchased 2 QX2710's last september when building my first real rig in the last 10 years. Bought them on Amazon from MiseMet, and have them both stable at 120hz. Had to do a little bit of lightbleed fix on one which was a breeze thanks to the info here.


----------



## Gilles3000

Got a fairly unpleasant surprise today, my shipment got upheld right before the delivery and ofc. wouldn't get delivered until i payed the import tax. Anyway, it'll be delivered tomorrow, i'll have some pictures and maybe some oc/lightbleed results up by then.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I depends on the seller, there is someone on ebay with a higher priced perfect pixel that is guaranteed zero dead pixels. Takes the price to around $390. You really have to read the sellers info, most say perfect but still consider 0-1 to be perfect. I think that's BS, perfect to me means zero.


I bought mine two weeks ago from Excellent castle. It was the "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" one. His price was $359. but I offered him $330 and he took it. The reason I mention this is his policy is zero stuck or dead pixels on this one and that's written on the page with the monitor.

I understand this is likely nonsense to pay more for the PP, but mine is perfect except for very minor blacklight bleed and I have OC to 120hz stable.


----------



## Anton149

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I bought mine two weeks ago from Excellent castle. It was the "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" one. His price was $359. but I offered him $330 and he took it. The reason I mention this is his policy is zero stuck or dead pixels on this one and that's written on the page with the monitor.
> 
> I understand this is likely nonsense to pay more for the PP, but mine is perfect except for very minor blacklight bleed and I have OC to 120hz stable.


Hello, I am currently in the market for that specific monitor as an addition to my new/first build. Is the seller that you bought the monitor, worth buying from? I was looking at this model, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831#shpCntId , and it looks like a pretty good deal compared to some of the other sellers. Is this the model you got yourself? How is the seller in terms of service? It sucks that the shipping costs 50 USD to Denmark though


----------



## hammelgammler

Canceled my order of the ColorMunki as im not shure if i really want it or the Spyder4Pro instead...
120€ is much money for what i want to do with it...
75€ for the Spyder4Express was really affordable...
I could also buy a xrite i1 display pro for 180€ but i dont know if it's worth...
ColorMunki seems like a good deal also... But when i load some profiles from users or the profile from NCX their are also looking good and cost nothing...
120€ for a "bit" better profile?...
I really want a colorimeter as it sounds cool to say you have a "perfectly" calibrated monitor...

I could also buy another Spyder4Express just to make shure it was a faulty unit but hm...
Man i really want a damn colorimeter but i know i dont need it that much.
I also dont know if it makes sense to buy a Spyder4Express and calibrate the Monitor with it cause NCX has done a really Nice profile with a 100€ more expensive colorimeter and also with the "pro" software basICColor display 5 which also costs 100€...
Maybe my own profile would be Not as good as the one from NCX?


----------



## outsider7p

My monitor from accessories whole arrived today! I ordered a normal monitor and picked up the squaretrade warranty.

It is absolutely perfect, not a dead pixel on it at all! Got it overclocked to 130hz at the moment which is far more than I was expecting to get! There is a little backlight bleed but nothing that I think I need to go and fix. Thanks for your help with this guys, it's been a fun journey researching everything!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I bought mine two weeks ago from Excellent castle. It was the "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" one. His price was $359. but I offered him $330 and he took it. The reason I mention this is his policy is zero stuck or dead pixels on this one and that's written on the page with the monitor.
> 
> I understand this is likely nonsense to pay more for the PP, but mine is perfect except for very minor blacklight bleed and I have OC to 120hz stable.


Hey Osteoman i remember when i was helping you to overclock your monitor when you first got it...and to use CRU i told you that you had to Uninstall Nvidia Gerforce Experience because CRU has a conflict with it ....which is well documented and which i proved when i tried to use my custom profiles though CRU with Nvidia Gerforce Experience installed......nothing worked until i uninsulated ( Nvidia Gerforce Experience )...also i remember you was quite upset about having to uninstall it the same as i was due to the fact that we liked the way it set up our games

However i am pleased to report that i now have Nvidia Gerforce Experience reinstalled and working as intended with my custom refresh profiles....now to get Nvidia Gerforce Experience working again we need to lose CRU....now keep in mind we only need CRU to create custom resolutions so that our *games* will see them and use them....we also knew that we could create custom resolutions within NVCP however our custom profiles using *only NVCP* would only ever work on the desktop and while browsing the web and would not of worked in any games we had installed...this was the reason we had to use CRU in the first place.

However if you install a driver file for the Qnix monitor and add it to your monitor though device manager you can you can now delete your custom resolutions within CRU ( *dont not delete your 60hz profile in CRU* )and reboot and now create your custom higher refresh resolutions within NVCP and your games will see them and work as intended....Also we can both rejoice at the fact that we can now reinstall Nvidia Gerforce Experience again!

I have done the above and everything is working just fine... i tested my higher refresh rates are working in Counterstike source by applying Vsync in the Counterstike source benchtest...screen was jammed at 120fps....vsync off i was hitting over 300fps...also tomb raider 4 allows you to set higher refresh rates if your monitor supports them and i was able to set 60hz ...96hz and 120hz in the graphic options...and i can report i was getting 120fps in tomb raider 4....all of the above was working with Nvidia Gerforce Experience installed again and the games optimized from it.

The key to all of this is having a Qnix monitor driver file which i have posted below...install the Qnix monitor driver file...delete the custom refresh rates from CRU ..now restart and go into NVCP set your Custom resolutions in there NOW and for your *120hz profile* use *MANUAL* for your timings and set your totals at 2652x1445 this of course will bring your pixel clock down and give you a stronger signal...also if using windows 8 as i do you will need to disable windows 8 Driver signature enforcement for just one windows session so that you can install the driver...so i have put a link below explaining how to do this...so good luck and enjoy using Nvidia Gerforce Experience once again as i am









qnix.zip 0k .zip file


Turn off for one session only windows 8 Driver signature enforcement

http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


----------



## Jetlitheone

Looking to buy another one of these probably going to go with ultimate pixel perfect just to be on the safe side.


----------



## Kold

Well I got my replacement back from dream-seller and he didn't send me the US adapter like before. I'm pretty annoyed. He had said the first time that since I paid extra for a "perfect" one, he was going to throw in the US plug adapter for free. Does anyone know where I can pick one of these up? I need to test the monitor before my 14 days ends.


----------



## hammelgammler

Well i just ordered another Spyder4Express as it is 11€ cheaper then the last one.
63,91€ for the Spyder4Express seems like a very good deal to me.








Maybe i had just a faulty device and the next one will be better in terms of calibration.
I really do think that it has the same sensor as the Spyder4Pro so what else could it be instead of a faulty device?
Nevermind for ~64€ i give the Spyder another try...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I bought mine two weeks ago from Excellent castle. It was the "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" one. His price was $359. but I offered him $330 and he took it. The reason I mention this is his policy is zero stuck or dead pixels on this one and that's written on the page with the monitor.
> 
> I understand this is likely nonsense to pay more for the PP, but mine is perfect except for very minor blacklight bleed and I have OC to 120hz stable.


I offered $320 he countered with $340, I declined. Mine was for the Crossover 27QW though.


----------



## Kold

Can I just use a regular power cord and plug it into the brick that came with it?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Can I just use a regular power cord and plug it into the brick that came with it?


As in a reg power cord from another monitor? If so then yes.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> As in a reg power cord from another monitor? If so then yes.


Yes


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> As in a reg power cord from another monitor? If so then yes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes


Woohoo! I love you guys!

I'll test it when I get off and report back. As for dream-seller, he did pay for everything and send me a brand new one. He did not resend the little adapter, but maybe he forget. We are all human. The other thing he said he would do is send me a video testing the monitor and he never did. From the initial look of things, this monitor appears to have never been opened. So I doubt it was checked at all. We shall see in a few hours.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Woohoo! I love you guys!
> 
> I'll test it when I get off and report back. As for dream-seller, he did pay for everything and send me a brand new one. He did not resend the little adapter, but maybe he forget. We are all human. The other thing he said he would do is send me a video testing the monitor and he never did. From the initial look of things, this monitor appears to have never been opened. So I doubt it was checked at all. We shall see in a few hours.


Probably wasn't.

Losing faith in these monitors...


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton149*
> 
> Hello, I am currently in the market for that specific monitor as an addition to my new/first build. Is the seller that you bought the monitor, worth buying from? I was looking at this model, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831#shpCntId , and it looks like a pretty good deal compared to some of the other sellers. Is this the model you got yourself? How is the seller in terms of service? It sucks that the shipping costs 50 USD to Denmark though


Your link is the exact one I bought, except I hit the link that says "make offer" and offered him $330 for it. Within 24 hours he had accepted and shipped via DHL. I am in Texas and received it 2 days after it shipped from Korea, which is astounding if you ask me. It had a sticker on the box that said "Zero Dead Pixel" and indeed it did not have any bad pixels at all. The blacklight bleed is very very minor on the bottom left. Not even worth fixing as it is not at all noticeable except on completely black screen. The box did have two holes in it which I attributed to shipping, but who knows. There was no damage to the monitor though. I would certainly buy from him again but I can not guarantee your experience will be as good of course.

I am thoroughly impressed with it. I decided to offer the $330 because it was what the other perfect pixel ones elsewhere on ebay were selling for but the difference was this one said zero bad pixels while the other perfect pixel ones consider 0-1 acceptable.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey Osteoman i remember when i was helping you to overclock your monitor when you first got it...and to use CRU i told you that you had to Uninstall Nvidia Gerforce Experience because CRU has a conflict with it ....which is well documented and which i proved when i tried to use my custom profiles though CRU with Nvidia Gerforce Experience installed......nothing worked until i uninsulated ( Nvidia Gerforce Experience )...also i remember you was quite upset about having to uninstall it the same as i was due to the fact that we liked the way it set up our games
> 
> However i am pleased to report that i now have Nvidia Gerforce Experience reinstalled and working as intended with my custom refresh profiles....now to get Nvidia Gerforce Experience working again we need to lose CRU....now keep in mind we only need CRU to create custom resolutions so that our *games* will see them and use them....we also knew that we could create custom resolutions within NVCP however our custom profiles using *only NVCP* would only ever work on the desktop and while browsing the web and would not of worked in any games we had installed...this was the reason we had to use CRU in the first place.
> 
> However if you install a driver file for the Qnix monitor and add it to your monitor though device manager you can you can now delete your custom resolutions within CRU ( *dont not delete your 60hz profile in CRU* )and reboot and now create your custom higher refresh resolutions within NVCP and your games will see them and work as intended....Also we can both rejoice at the fact that we can now reinstall Nvidia Gerforce Experience again!
> 
> I have done the above and everything is working just fine... i tested my higher refresh rates are working in Counterstike source by applying Vsync in the Counterstike source benchtest...screen was jammed at 120fps....vsync off i was hitting over 300fps...also tomb raider 4 allows you to set higher refresh rates if your monitor supports them and i was able to set 60hz ...96hz and 120hz in the graphic options...and i can report i was getting 120fps in tomb raider 4....all of the above was working with Nvidia Gerforce Experience installed again and the games optimized from it.
> 
> The key to all of this is having a Qnix monitor driver file which i have posted below...install the Qnix monitor driver file...delete the custom refresh rates from CRU ..now restart and go into NVCP set your Custom resolutions in there NOW and for your *120hz profile* use *MANUAL* for your timings and set your totals at 2652x1445 this of course will bring your pixel clock down and give you a stronger signal...also if using windows 8 as i do you will need to disable windows 8 Driver signature enforcement for just one windows session so that you can install the driver...so i have put a link below explaining how to do this...so good luck and enjoy using Nvidia Gerforce Experience once again as i am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> Turn off for one session only windows 8 Driver signature enforcement
> 
> http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


Lawson that is AWESOME!!

Good job on figuring that all out. I'm running Win 7 on my gaming machine so I'll skip that last step.

Thanks for all the effort in figuring all that out. You da man!!

I will do this either tonight or tomorrow. Work keeps getting in the way, LOL.

Also I wanted to mention for anyone reading that Excellentcastle actually shipped mine with an american power cord. No converter or goofiness just the regular american power cord.


----------



## Anton149

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Your link is the exact one I bought, except I hit the link that says "make offer" and offered him $330 for it. Within 24 hours he had accepted and shipped via DHL. I am in Texas and received it 2 days after it shipped from Korea, which is astounding if you ask me. It had a sticker on the box that said "Zero Dead Pixel" and indeed it did not have any bad pixels at all. The blacklight bleed is very very minor on the bottom left. Not even worth fixing as it is not at all noticeable except on completely black screen. The box did have two holes in it which I attributed to shipping, but who knows. There was no damage to the monitor though. I would certainly buy from him again but I can not guarantee your experience will be as good of course.
> 
> I am thoroughly impressed with it. I decided to offer the $330 because it was what the other perfect pixel ones elsewhere on ebay were selling for but the difference was this one said zero bad pixels while the other perfect pixel ones consider 0-1 acceptable.


I think he will be my choice, since it's possible to make an offer! That brings the total cost down to $380 with shipping which I think is a great deal. Do I have to tell him anything when I order or am I fine just ordering it? I mean like "Check Backlight Bleed" and stuff.. Rather safe than sorry I guess. The 0 dead pixel is so great since it's one of the only things I was afraid of and some of those "pixel perfect" doesn't seem to make that big of a difference other than letting you pay more. I will report back when I get my rig assembled and get my upcoming Qnix QX2710 from excellentcastle..!

And by the way; I have to pay taxes when it arrives in Denmark and those taxes are of course corrected after the value of the item. How low do you think I can ask him to set the value before the tax-people starts wondering if it's the correct value or not? He says this further down on the page of the exact same monitor:


http://imgur.com/xYX0egY


I know the speakers are bad, But are they horrible or can non-audiophiles use them without any problems? It's just that I don't have other speakers at the time being and this one is only for the short term!


----------



## exzacklyright

Does this even exist?

VGA to DVI-D?

Every vga to dvi i find is DVI-I...

for example: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVIVGAMFBK-DVI-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004G3WCLM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1392078162&sr=1-6&keywords=vga+to+hdmi


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton149*
> 
> I think he will be my choice, since it's possible to make an offer! That brings the total cost down to $380 with shipping which I think is a great deal. Do I have to tell him anything when I order or am I fine just ordering it? I mean like "Check Backlight Bleed" and stuff.. Rather safe than sorry I guess. The 0 dead pixel is so great since it's one of the only things I was afraid of and some of those "pixel perfect" doesn't seem to make that big of a difference other than letting you pay more. I will report back when I get my rig assembled and get my upcoming Qnix QX2710 from excellentcastle..!
> 
> And by the way; I have to pay taxes when it arrives in Denmark and those taxes are of course corrected after the value of the item. How low do you think I can ask him to set the value before the tax-people starts wondering if it's the correct value or not? He says this further down on the page of the exact same monitor:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/xYX0egY
> 
> 
> I know the speakers are bad, But are they horrible or can non-audiophiles use them without any problems? It's just that I don't have other speakers at the time being and this one is only for the short term!


They're horrible.. Lol

Anyways should I get the SE version again or just get the 320$ normal version?

Just got my sq monitor so wanna order it soon


----------



## iluvkfc

I have finally received my GTX 780 Ti and can now start overclocking my Qnix QX2710. I've set it to 110 Hz because 120 Hz produced lines across the screen whenever there was some motion. So far I've not noticed this while running 110 Hz so I guess this will be my 24/7 clock. I did notice, however, that the colors got darker, as some of you have reported. I tried some color calibrating profiles, but they all caused a blue tint on my screen, which I did not like. So what I did was just go into Nvidia Control Panel and set Gamma to 1.30 and now my colors are fine again, but I'm not sure if they are as good as default.

Is this a good solution to my problem? If not, how should I go about solving this issue (any color profiles you may suggest)?


----------



## DAC901

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomka*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> yesterday I got my Qnix QX2710 Evo II SE single input from seller accessorieswhole.
> 
> I couldn't find any bad pixels but I would like to ask if any of you experienced strange thick lines mostly visible only on black color or really dark color on stock frequency. On black parts of pictures and with high brightness, this becomes very disturbing. It is visible only on the right side of the LCD and visibility rises with user looking more from the bottom of the LCD (like when you have eyes in height of lower QNIX logo). Lines are there during bios and start up too.
> 
> Is this a defect and I should return it? Can it be caused by some HW, cable (tried two but low cost ones), geforce 560 ti, power cables, SW settings?
> 
> Here is the short video of the defect:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jman7309*
> 
> Has anyone experienced an issue where your monitor shows horizontal white lines (seems like bleed-through, not actual pixel defects) on black images? I just got my monitor three days ago and it is perfect other than this issue and some minor bleeding in the corners.


Hey does it look anything like my pictures here??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAC901*


I got mine from accessorieswhole also last week. It looks like many people who got theirs from them recently has this problem. I'm going to try to get a refund.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kxdu*
> 
> Just sold my 2 x u2412m that I have on landscape sitting next to my Qnix. Time to order a second Qnix and figure out how to fit this on my Ikea Jerker desk...
> 
> Any recommendations on a dual monitor stand for 2 x Qnix? I do plan on debezelling both of them in the near future too.


The Ikea Jerker is one of the greatest desks ever made.









Check monoprice. Lots of options.


----------



## outsider7p

Hi guys, I'm getting lots of black crush now I'm running at 120hz. I've tried to install ICC profiles using windows color managment and CPKeeper but they just revert back to normal colours straight after. I've done every step to make them default but nothing seems to be working, any ideas?

Thanks


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAC901*
> 
> Hey does it look anything like my pictures here??
> I got mine from accessorieswhole also last week. It looks like many people who got theirs from them recently has this problem. I'm going to try to get a refund.


Get your refund. I am.

Is it the SE edition?


----------



## DAC901

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Get your refund. I am.
> 
> Is it the SE edition?


Yup,
Evolution 2 SE Matte


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outsider7p*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm getting lots of black crush now I'm running at 120hz. I've tried to install ICC profiles using windows color managment and CPKeeper but they just revert back to normal colours straight after. I've done every step to make them default but nothing seems to be working, any ideas?
> 
> Thanks


Follow every step here...if you use windows DONT NOT use anything else and if you use CP keeper don't use window...so for now don't use CP keeper and follow the below to the letter and unless you have anything else that you are unaware of in your startup folder or in (msconfig) trying to load or mess with your profile then the below should work flawlessly

1:Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
2:Select the display you want.
3:Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
4:Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
5:Click "ok"
6:Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
7:Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
8:Click on the new "advanced" tab and put a tick in the box "Use Windows Display Calibration".


----------



## bluedevil

Has anyone seen this? Love how they even have OCN's setup. The phrase "the pursuit of performance". wow

http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html

BTW is this Qnix QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE good? What's the SE mean?

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-Monitor/dp/B00HWV8ZTS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1392083999&sr=1-3&keywords=qnix


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Has anyone seen this? Love how they even have OCN's setup. The phrase "the pursuit of performance". wow
> 
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html
> 
> BTW is this Qnix QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE good? What's the SE mean?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-Monitor/dp/B00HWV8ZTS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1392083999&sr=1-3&keywords=qnix


I asked the same question regarding the difference between SE and normal panel. And as someone replied SE panel are ones which have different defect pixel policy from standard 0-3 increased to 0-5. Also a lot of people are facing problems with SE panels. Get the normal one. Don't go for SE. The price difference would mean nothing if you have to send it back for replacement or worse no replacement.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Has anyone seen this? Love how they even have OCN's setup. The phrase "the pursuit of performance". wow
> 
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html
> 
> BTW is this Qnix QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE good? What's the SE mean?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-Monitor/dp/B00HWV8ZTS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1392083999&sr=1-3&keywords=qnix


SE as in silly edition. Cause it's silly to save 30-40$ to get a whole bunch of horrible backlight issues. See above. Those lines on the screen. Many have got those from ebay on the SE model from accessorieswhole. That is amazon and might be a different seller but who knows


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnie_gogs*
> 
> I asked the same question regarding the difference between SE and normal panel. And as someone replied SE panel are ones which have different defect pixel policy from standard 0-3 increased to 0-5. Also a lot of people are facing problems with SE panels. Get the normal one. Don't go for SE. The price difference would mean nothing if you have to send it back for replacement or worse no replacement.


This. SE is a joke.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> This. SE is a joke.


Gotcha. Spend the extra $40 for alot better quality.

$335
http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1392083999&sr=1-1&keywords=qnix


----------



## HOTDOGS

I caved and bought the X-Star for $339.93 after the conversion fees.


----------



## bmancreations

Can someone show me the back of their monitor after doing the debezzle? The shots in the tutorial don't show the entire back of it, I'd like to see both sides, and how the finishes product looks.


----------



## ronnie_gogs

If you wanna save a little try the normal (non SE) version from Qoo10. Its a Korean website which is now owned by Ebay used to be known as Gmarket before. Same sellers on ebay sell the monitors on these sites. Same rules apply. Paypal payment.

http://list.qoo10.com/item/QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-LL-MATTE/410946607

This is from accessorieswhole. You have other sellers too just search for it.

http://list.qoo10.com/s/?gdlc_cd=&gdmc_cd=&gdsc_cd=&delivery_group_no=&sell_cust_no=&bundle_delivery=&bundle_policy=&keywordArrLength=1&keyword=&within_keyword_auto_change=&keyword_hist=QNIX+QX2710&curPage=1&filterDelivery=NNNNNNNN&flt_pri_idx=0&flt_tab_idx=0&sortType=SELL_PRICE_ASC&dispType=LIST&pageSize=60&partial=on&goodscode_for_css=&shipto=&basis=&adult=&brandnm=&flowCheck=SS&shipFromNation=&qshopshipto=&global_yn_check=&goodsStorePickup=N&globalqshopCheck=&priceMin=&priceMax=&paging_value=1#anchor_detail_top

EDIT : Ignore the free shipping it seems they are not offering free shipping for US. Go for amazon if you like


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey Osteoman i remember when i was helping you to overclock your monitor when you first got it...and to use CRU i told you that you had to Uninstall Nvidia Gerforce Experience because CRU has a conflict with it ....which is well documented and which i proved when i tried to use my custom profiles though CRU with Nvidia Gerforce Experience installed......nothing worked until i uninsulated ( Nvidia Gerforce Experience )...also i remember you was quite upset about having to uninstall it the same as i was due to the fact that we liked the way it set up our games
> 
> However i am pleased to report that i now have Nvidia Gerforce Experience reinstalled and working as intended with my custom refresh profiles....now to get Nvidia Gerforce Experience working again we need to lose CRU....now keep in mind we only need CRU to create custom resolutions so that our *games* will see them and use them....we also knew that we could create custom resolutions within NVCP however our custom profiles using *only NVCP* would only ever work on the desktop and while browsing the web and would not of worked in any games we had installed...this was the reason we had to use CRU in the first place.


I found a workaround that allows CRU to work with GeForce Experience. I updated the download page with the new information:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> Note for NVIDIA users: GeForce Experience is known to cause issues with EDID overrides such as resolutions being listed in the NVIDIA control panel but not in the Windows screen resolution settings. Either uninstall GeForce Experience, or enable the extension block and import this file: blank-extension.dat


I also released a driver restarter so you can test different configurations without rebooting:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 5. Reboot, or try the experimental driver restarter: restart.zip


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anton149*
> 
> I think he will be my choice, since it's possible to make an offer! That brings the total cost down to $380 with shipping which I think is a great deal. Do I have to tell him anything when I order or am I fine just ordering it? I mean like "Check Backlight Bleed" and stuff.. Rather safe than sorry I guess. The 0 dead pixel is so great since it's one of the only things I was afraid of and some of those "pixel perfect" doesn't seem to make that big of a difference other than letting you pay more. I will report back when I get my rig assembled and get my upcoming Qnix QX2710 from excellentcastle..!
> 
> And by the way; I have to pay taxes when it arrives in Denmark and those taxes are of course corrected after the value of the item. How low do you think I can ask him to set the value before the tax-people starts wondering if it's the correct value or not? He says this further down on the page of the exact same monitor:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/xYX0egY
> 
> 
> I know the speakers are bad, But are they horrible or can non-audiophiles use them without any problems? It's just that I don't have other speakers at the time being and this one is only for the short term!


I havn't connected the speakers since I have good ones so I'm not sure about that.

I have seen other people on this site say sellers have listed it for about $200 but I don't know how your rules work on that stuff.

Let us know how your experience goes. Hope you get a great one!!


----------



## Kold

My X-Star turned out perfect this time around. Maybe he did check and maybe he didn't. All I know is there aren't any dead pixels and the back light bleed is nonexistent. I can now breathe a sigh of relief. What a pain in the ass it can be ordering these monitors.

I am currently in between cards (Waiting for the 780 Ti HOF to come in stock) and using my backup 7750. Where can I find profiles for it that just correct the color and no OC?


----------



## Osteoman

Thank you to ToastyX and Lawson for the work on this. Awesome work.


----------



## hotdun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I found a workaround that allows CRU to work with GeForce Experience. I updated the download page with the new information:
> I also released a driver restarter so you can test different configurations without rebooting:


Are there any benefits in using CRU if you have GeForce Experience? I've been using GeForce Experience alone since I received my Qnix without any issues and all my games are playing at 120Hz.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotdun*
> 
> Are there any benefits in using CRU if you have GeForce Experience? I've been using GeForce Experience alone since I received my Qnix without any issues and all my games are playing at 120Hz.


None. Cru is mostly for people with AMD cards.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> My X-Star turned out perfect this time around. Maybe he did check and maybe he didn't. All I know is there aren't any dead pixels and the back light bleed is nonexistent. I can now breathe a sigh of relief. What a pain in the ass it can be ordering these monitors.
> 
> I am currently in between cards (Waiting for the 780 Ti HOF to come in stock) and using my backup 7750. Where can I find profiles for it that just correct the color and no OC?


Hmm the monitor comes almost perfectly calibrated unless yours is off?


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> Does this even exist?
> 
> VGA to DVI-D?
> 
> Every vga to dvi i find is DVI-I...
> 
> for example: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVIVGAMFBK-DVI-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004G3WCLM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1392078162&sr=1-6&keywords=vga+to+hdmi


VGA is an analog signal, DVI-D is digital only. DVI-I has both analog and digital. the reason why its probably not easy to find a VGA to DVI-D is that conversion from analog to digital probably isn't easy(I wouldn't know, but if it does exist, it probably requires special hardware and not something as small as an adapter)


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Hmm the monitor comes almost perfectly calibrated unless yours is off?


Hmm I was told these monitors should be calibrated still?


----------



## note

I just got my Qnix QX2710 Evo II and while I was trying to overclock it to 120hz. Whenever I clock my monitor over 110hz I would get a bunch of green horizontal lines on my screen.

Is there any settings I need to try?


----------



## sambuka187

Hi there I have a Qnix Qx2710 and have had it overclocked to 120hz using lawson's timings and the nvidia patch which has been running flawlessly.

However i have just re-installed my Nvidia drivers and the screen works fine until windows loads up at which point its all flickering and I am unable to read or see anything on screen.

I'm guessing the oc or patch are messing something up.

Is there anyway I can use my Tv for instance using Hdmi to change something in windows to try restore the monitor back to stock so I can reconnect it and start over?

Thanks in advance

EDIT: Managed to reset profile in CRU using TV and monitor is working as intended again.


----------



## ferrari312

I had my monitor OCing fine @ 110Hz. I stupidly mucked about with settings in NVidia Inspector and I this totally messed up my system.

With vsync on the FPS would fix at the refresh rate , i,e 110FPS/110Hz. I know for a fact it was syncing because the game uncapped with vsync off runs at 150+FPS. Last night after messing with NVidia Inspector it would drop to something horrid like 25FPS and be unplayable after a couple of minutes.

I reinstalled W7 last night and added a 96hz profile using the NVIDIA driver. I fired up the game and its back steady at 96FPS , not extensive testing but it seems fixed with limited testing.

However if I browse to http://www.testufo.com/#test=framerates in Chrome I only see 60hz on the desktop - pretty sure when I first successfully over-clocked the refresh rate on the testufo website would match the custom monitor refresh set.

Any ideas ? not that bothered about desktop mode - but am I really running at 96Hz ? It looks and feels like it is but blur test seems to contradict this.

Cheers.


----------



## tomka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAC901*
> 
> Hey does it look anything like my pictures here??
> I got mine from accessorieswhole also last week. It looks like many people who got theirs from them recently has this problem. I'm going to try to get a refund.


Exactly the same, will you get refunded or return? He suggested me $60 only







I think I will return it...


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Canceled my order of the ColorMunki as im not shure if i really want it or the Spyder4Pro instead...
> 120€ is much money for what i want to do with it...
> 75€ for the Spyder4Express was really affordable...
> I could also buy a xrite i1 display pro for 180€ but i dont know if it's worth...
> ColorMunki seems like a good deal also... But when i load some profiles from users or the profile from NCX their are also looking good and cost nothing...
> 120€ for a "bit" better profile?...
> I really want a colorimeter as it sounds cool to say you have a "perfectly" calibrated monitor...
> 
> I could also buy another Spyder4Express just to make shure it was a faulty unit but hm...
> Man i really want a damn colorimeter but i know i dont need it that much.
> I also dont know if it makes sense to buy a Spyder4Express and calibrate the Monitor with it cause NCX has done a really Nice profile with a 100€ more expensive colorimeter and also with the "pro" software basICColor display 5 which also costs 100€...
> Maybe my own profile would be Not as good as the one from NCX?


I told you to avoid the Spyder4Pro since it's around the same price as the Colormunki and is inferior.

A profile with your colorimeter on your display will almost *always* be better than another's profile on his screen, *especially* if you use the same colorimeter and do not muck around with color calibration settings without knowing what you're doing.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 1:Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
> 2:Select the display you want.
> 3:Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
> 4:Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
> 5:Click "ok"
> 6:Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
> 7:Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
> 8:Click on the new "advanced" tab and click "Use Windows Display Calibration".


AMD card owners should *not* be using Windows color profile loader for this reason. Just letting you know if you're recommending this method to AMD users. For Nvidia GeForce users, it's fine. Till now.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sambuka187*
> 
> Hi there I have a Qnix Qx2710 and have had it overclocked to 120hz using lawson's timings and the nvidia patch which has been running flawlessly.
> 
> However i have just re-installed my Nvidia drivers and the screen works fine until windows loads up at which point its all flickering and I am unable to read or see anything on screen.
> 
> I'm guessing the oc or patch are messing something up.
> 
> Is there anyway I can use my Tv for instance using Hdmi to change something in windows to try restore the monitor back to stock so I can reconnect it and start over?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Hi sorry to here you a have got into a bit of a mess....you should always unpatch your drivers and delete your custom resolutions and reboot before upgrading to updated new drivers....once the new drivers are loaded you can patch them and create your custom resolutions again...and yes use your TV or spare monitor to reset your patch and delete you custom resolutions

On a footnote i use fabulous piece of free software called Macrium Reflect....it does a absolutely brilliant job of backing up my computer...before i make any changes to my computer that i believe i could regret or even if i just testing out some theory i have....with my Samsung 840 SSD it takes a little over 5 mins to back up to my 2TB Seagate hybrid HD and has got out of trouble many times....just remember to create the back up CD when it asks you to when you first install it.....without this you not be able to restore if your computer does not restart back into windows...i consider this software to be among the most valuable programs i have installed on my computer and the free version is all you need









http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> AMD card owners should *not* be using Windows color profile loader for this reason. Just letting you know if you're recommending this method to AMD users. For Nvidia GeForce users, it's fine. Till now.


Can you explane why AMD users should not use windows Colour management to install and apply there ICC profiles which it was designed to do by microsoft who also works closely with AMD including Nvidia....Microsoft did NOT design this feature for Nvidia users only ...please explane your point?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I told you to avoid the Spyder4Pro since it's around the same price as the Colormunki and is inferior.
> 
> A profile with your colorimeter on your display will almost *always* be better than another's profile on his screen, *especially* if you use the same colorimeter and do not muck around with color calibration settings without knowing what you're doing.


My spyder4 pro has made a fantastic ICC profile for my Qnix...i have completely corrected gamma NO black crush and i been able to calibrate to 99% of sRGB my spyder4 pro has also measured that i have a Gamut of 121.8% of sRGB which means my inferior spyder4 pro has manage to read and measure from my Qnix 21.8% more colours than i need to correctly display sRGB ....my 120hz colour profile looks NO different than running at 60hz colours using dispcalGUI...maybe you should tell Datacolour where they are going wrong?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotdun*
> 
> Are there any benefits in using CRU if you have GeForce Experience? I've been using GeForce Experience alone since I received my Qnix without any issues and all my games are playing at 120Hz.


The NVIDIA control panel will work for most games if you install the qnix.inf file, but many people fail to do this.

CRU creates EDID overrides, which works better for a few stubborn games. CRU also has the ability to remove resolutions that aren't needed. If you remove 60 Hz, that will force everything to use the higher refresh rate, but this can cause problems when upgrading the driver because the higher refresh rate won't be available unless the driver is patched, so the driver will try to use a lower resolution that these monitors don't support.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi sorry to here you a have got into a bit of a mess....you should always unpatch your drivers and delete your custom resolutions and reboot before upgrading to updated to new drivers....once the new drivers are loaded you can patch them and create your custom resolutions again...and yes use your TV or spare monitor to reset your patch and delete you custom resolutions


You don't need to unpatch the driver before upgrading the driver because upgrading will replace the old patched driver with the new unpatched driver. You only have to repatch the driver after upgrading.

If you're using CRU, you don't need to undo the custom resolutions before upgrading unless you deleted 60 Hz.

If you're using the NVIDIA control panel, you might have to disable the custom resolutions before upgrading if you have an SLI setup that requires the patch.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> The NVIDIA control panel will work for most games if you install the qnix.inf file, but many people fail to do this.
> 
> CRU creates EDID overrides, which works better for a few stubborn games. CRU also has the ability to remove resolutions that aren't needed. If you remove 60 Hz, that will force everything to use the higher refresh rate, but this can cause problems when upgrading the driver because the higher refresh rate won't be available unless the driver is patched, so the driver will try to use a lower resolution that these monitors don't support.
> You don't need to unpatch the driver before upgrading the driver because upgrading will replace the old patched driver with the new unpatched driver.
> 
> If you're using CRU, you don't need to undo the custom resolutions before upgrading unless you deleted 60 Hz.
> 
> If you're using the NVIDIA control panel, you might have to disable the custom resolutions before upgrading if you have an SLI setup that requires the patch.


Thank you ToastyX for clarifying and for correcting me the on the points above...i also would like to thank your for your excellent software and your time continuing to support your software which enables this community to continue









Edit : However for now i will carry on using the Qinx. INF file as all the games i play seem to work Flawlessly using this and NVCP ... also i now have nvidia geforce experience working again which is something i really missed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> The NVIDIA control panel will work for most games if you install the qnix.inf file, but many people fail to do this.
> 
> CRU creates EDID overrides, which works better for a few stubborn games. CRU also has the ability to remove resolutions that aren't needed. If you remove 60 Hz, that will force everything to use the higher refresh rate, but this can cause problems when upgrading the driver because the higher refresh rate won't be available unless the driver is patched, so the driver will try to use a lower resolution that these monitors don't support.
> You don't need to unpatch the driver before upgrading the driver because upgrading will replace the old patched driver with the new unpatched driver. You only have to repatch the driver after upgrading.
> 
> If you're using CRU, you don't need to undo the custom resolutions before upgrading unless you deleted 60 Hz.
> 
> If you're using the NVIDIA control panel, you might have to disable the custom resolutions before upgrading if you have an SLI setup that requires the patch.


All of the above and many other things like the ability to use the Qnix.inf file needs to be updated on the OP which would really help out this community and stop people getting frustrated and to having ask the same questions over and over again.....also it would help people have a better understanding what they where doing as opposed to just blindly following instructions which could avoided them getting into a mess later down the line like our member who just upgraded his drivers... the OP is very outdated any help to update it would be appreciated ..thanks


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> My X-Star turned out perfect this time around. Maybe he did check and maybe he didn't. All I know is there aren't any dead pixels and the back light bleed is nonexistent. I can now breathe a sigh of relief. What a pain in the ass it can be ordering these monitors.
> 
> I am currently in between cards (Waiting for the 780 Ti HOF to come in stock) and using my backup 7750. Where can I find profiles for it that just correct the color and no OC?


Click under *Colour Calibration Profiles (ICC) & How to install them* below. www.tftcentral.co.uk is a good reference for profiles if you don't have a calibrator of your own, whcih is th ebest option. There will be some discrepancy from panel to panel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> 
> The Korean PLS Monitor Club
> Qnix QX2710 & X-Star DP2710
> 
> Warning!! This post is not mobile browser friendly. Optimal viewing of the information contained via "desktop" browsing
> 
> *NEW MEMBERS:
> PLEASE READ INFO BELOW!
> ESPECIALLY THE FAQ!!*
> Many of your questions can be answered here, rather than being asked about again and again in the thread only to be referred back to here, the Original Post (OP).
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Change Log
> 
> 
> 
> 2/8/14: Added some ICC profiles
> 12/26/13: Updated manufacturer websites. Updated FAQ.
> 9/12/13: Added data sheet for internal Samsung screen in "Relevant discussion and information links"
> 9/9/13: OP back to normal and added to vesa stand section
> 8/26/13: Updated verifying monitor OCs. Updated Tape Mod section.
> 8/19/13: Updated monitor OC procedure.
> 7/28/13: Added to FAQ.
> 7/22/13: Added Tek-Syndicate review.
> 7/12/13: Added a (futile) attempt to get new members to actually read the OP.
> 7/3/13: Added info to the "Tape Mod" section. Updated FAQ and OP layout.
> 6/28/13: Added vesa mounting de-bezeled monitor section
> 6/25/13: Finished verifying all members. All legit!
> 6/6/13: Added members list photo verification
> 5/28/13: Added "Official" status, mod De-Zant approved.
> 5/31/13: Added to reviews section. Added members list analysis section.
> 5/26-27/13: Added to FAQ section
> 5/15/13: Added to 'Reviews' section
> 5/8/13: Added color calibration profiles for monitors with same PLS screen (Asus, Samsung, and Viewsonic).
> 5/4/13: Added change log. Added Tape Mod in help section. Added some FAQ points.
> 5/3/13: Added additional color calibration profiles.
> 4/27/13: Added FAQ section.
> 4/22/13: Club founded, thread started. Compiled information into OP.
> 
> 
> 
> Monitor Information
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: FAQ
> 
> 
> 
> Q: Why Korean PLS monitors? What is different about them?
> A: Here is some back story: IPS Korean monitors have been around for awhile now, but with increasing popularity their prices have risen. Overclocking variants cost even more.
> Out of this comes new Korean variants using the Samsung PLS screen, specifically the Qnix and the X-star, which offer the same (if not better) image quality of the popular IPS and have a very good chance of overclocking to 120 Hz.
> 
> Q: Is it worth it to buy a pixel perfect monitor?
> A: *No.* All evidence as of now suggests that probability of receiving a monitor with no or little dead pixels is random, even if purchasing a 'pixel perfect' monitor. It seems that it is a marketing ploy for them to get more money.
> 
> Q: Does the single-input version of these monitors overclock?
> A: Yes. To see the various overclocks (OCs) reported, look to the expandable section below titled "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis" and look for the pie graph of reported OCs.
> 
> Q: Does the multi-input model of these monitors overclock?
> A: No. Even connecting the multi-input monitor via dual-link DVI will not result in it being able to overclock.
> 
> Q: If you can overclock in the computer to 120 Hz, does the monitor truly run at 120 Hz?
> A: Yes. Proof: http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/530#post_19788281
> 
> Q: Can I buy a monitor that will OC to 120 Hz, guaranteed?
> A: No, not as far as I know. There are theories that monitors sold by certain sellers have a better chance to OC higher, but it is considered to be random.
> 
> Q: Does the DVI cable used have an effect on OC ability?
> A: Some have reported better and worse OCs from using a different cable than that included. Some have also reported varrying OCs with switching their GPU. YMMV
> 
> Q: Do any issues come from overclocking, i.e. does it affect reliability?
> A: Unknown at this time. However, other korean monitors have been overclocked for years with no issues.
> 
> Q: Should I buy an X-star or a Qnix (Any differences? Which one will overclock better?)
> A: Short answer: Choose whichever one you want.
> Long answer: They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability.
> 
> Q: Should I buy a matte or glossy monitor?
> A: Glossy is superior for image clarity (clarity = sharpness of image. not 'quality' or 'color' of image). The Matte coating on these monitors is semi-Glossy, not a thick Matte coating so it isn't as obtrusive as traditional matte coating. So, choosing Matte or Glossy comes down to if you will be bothered by reflections. If there is a potential for daylight or electrical light reflection, do not get Glossy.
> 
> Q: Can i remove the stock stand (base and stem) and mount the monitor?
> A: Yes. Both the qnix and x-star have 100mm vesa mount pattern, so mounting is possible. Removing the base is easy (unscrew the thumb screw on the bottom), but removing the clear stem requires opening the monitor casing and unscrewing it. There are multiple videos and pictures below in the "Monitor fixes, support, help" area describing how to open the monitor casing. Once the monitor casing is opened, it is easy to see how to unscrew the screws holding in the base stem.
> 
> Q: Will I be able to notice the response time and/or input lag (especially in gaming)?
> A: Many users, myself included, have noticed motion blur during FPS gaming (such as planetside 2). It would be even more noticeable in 'twitch' gaming. It is fine for regular use (Leauge of Legends, Guildwars 2, etc.), but gaming professionals should look elsewhere.
> 
> Q: Is the panel 6 or 8 bit?
> A: Panel is 8 bit.
> 
> Q: Differences between IPS and PLS? (why is one better than the other, if that?)
> A: IPS is made by LG and PLS is made by Samsung. They are both pretty much the same thing, but technically PLS is better.
> 
> Q: I don't live in the U.S.. How much will I have to pay in additional shipping fees, VAT, taxes, etc.?
> A: Look at the expandable section below titled "VAT, Fees, Taxes by Country"
> 
> Q: Does my monitor have any dead pixels or back light bleed?
> A: *Here is a good website to check*. Choose a color and make it full screen to check dead/stuck pixels. For checking back light bleed, choose the black and make it full screen. Make your surroundings as dark as possible with no lights or daylight.
> 
> Q: Oh noe, I received a monitor and it has back light bleed (BLB)!! How will I know if it is worthy of getting a return over?
> A: Some ebay sellers straight up say that BLB is not something they take returns over. There have been exceptions, however. So take pictures of the monitor in the best standardized way to show BLB. Refer to the "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" section below for the subsection titled "How to properly take pictures of your backlight bleed" to learn how to take pictures of the BLB, and post them here on this forum.
> 
> Q: Is there a way to fix back light bleed (BLB)?
> A: Possibly, to some degree. Look below in the expandable section titled "Tape mod to fix Back Light Bleed"
> 
> Q: What GPU should I have to support the resolution of this monitor?
> A: For non-gaming, anything is fine as long as it has the DVI-D port. For gaming, a card with 2GB GDDR5 is recommended and anything above that is great. Below 2GB will work, just not the best for modern games.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Monitor Specs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *It should be noted that the listed Response time of the Qnix is 6ms, where it is reported to actually be 8ms*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures of unboxing a Qnix
> 
> 
> 
> Comes come with a DVI-DL cable. It's not very long. Also comes with plug, so find an old PC PSU cable.
> http://minus.com/lhBLUNzitIRnG
> 
> They included a USA adapter.
> http://minus.com/luEymcdwGGEdq
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Detailed videos on opening the monitor, case internals, etc. (Thanks dascth)
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Relevant manufacturer and discussion/information links
> 
> 
> 
> *Qnix Manufacturer website*
> *X-Star Manufacturer website*
> Data sheet for Samsung Panel (screen used on these monitors)
> Korean PLS Monitor Club spinoff at Hardforum
> Specs for the Samsung PLS panel used
> Korean Qnix discussion on OCN
> Korean PLS overclocking results
> Discussion over on 120Hz.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Reviews
> 
> 
> 
> "NCX" at wecravegamestoo.com Qnix QX2710 full review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not entirely accurate throughout the video, but they still recommend it over the ACHIEVA Shimian.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overclockers.ru Review (in Russian ---> translate)
> "mspamed's" impressions on the X-star DP2710
> "MrGreenankle's" X-star DP2710 impressions/URL]
> "rune3400's" Qnix QX2700 impressions
> "HyperMatrix" (at 120Hz.net) impressions
> 
> Review of a similar monitor, but with an IPS screen. It contains good pictures of the monitor, and inside the monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> Monitor Fixes, Support, Help
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis
> 
> 
> 
> Some analysis on the members list submissions, _done by yours truly_
> *These should not be a persons ONLY source in buying advice. If unsure, ask us about a seller or specific listing.
> This is simply to show trends in what members here have purchased thus far. Enjoy*
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc&single=true&gid=3&output=html&widget=true
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc&single=true&gid=6&output=html&widget=true
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc&single=true&gid=7&output=html&widget=true
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc&single=true&gid=5&output=html&widget=true
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Good Wallpaper websites
> 
> 
> 
> http://wallpaperswide.com/2560x1440-wallpapers-r
> 
> http://interfacelift.com/wallpaper/downloads/date/widescreen/2560x1440/
> 
> http://wallbase.cc/home
> 
> http://wallpapersget.com/
> 
> http://wallpaperstock.net/
> 
> http://www.socwall.com/
> 
> Good screen savers:
> http://www.reallyslick.com/screensavers/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Good Replacement VESA Monitor Stands
> 
> 
> 
> A great OEM HP stand, though difficult to find sometimes: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/3720_30#post_20298237
> 
> Others at monoprice...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: VAT, Fees, Taxes by Country
> 
> 
> 
> This was copied from the Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club thread. Big thanks to their OP ScribbyDaGreat for compiling such a great list!
> 
> Australia/NZ: from evangelionstar
> I am from Australia but also familiar with New Zealand's limits too.
> There is no tax or duties payable in Australia for an item via post or courier so long as the total cost is below $1000. Its very straight forward. Value under $1000 and your all set.
> For Nz its around $400 or so (from memory). Basically if the charges of Duty + GST is less than $60NZD then nothing is payable.
> 
> Canada: from keveinsbane
> In Canada, there is no Customs or duties for complete LCD colour monitors.
> There is no tax on "gifts" valued at <$60, and no tax on any items < $20 value. Tax in Canada varies depending on your province.
> My monitor was marked as a $30 value, and I paid no taxes or duties on my purchase.
> 
> Estonia: from skypc
> Ordered Catleap to Estonia from Green-sum. Green-sum stated on invoice the worth of te monitor as 30$ and the shipping price was about 110$. Tax was calculated from worth stated on invoice + shipping price and I had to pay 25% from this sum, $140.
> 
> France: from charlesk
> So I'm from France and I paid for a 311€ ($406) monitor :
> customs duty : 43 €
> VAT : 69€ (19.6%)
> filing fees : 21€
> total : 133€
> 
> So here is what happened :
> - the parcel got stuck in customs, reason : no invoice
> - 1 week after I received a letter from the customs. They asked for an invoice and the paypal receipt
> - I asked dreamseller for the invoice, he said that he could make one with the value I wanted, but I didn't want to fake the paypal receipt so I declared the real price.
> 
> What I just did for a new order (dreamseller) :
> - I asked him to join an invoice with a credible value in the parcel ($200), so that the parcel can go trough customs without them contacting me.
> - with this, VAT should be lower, but I don't know about the other two taxes, I'll see.
> 
> Japan: from mumbles37
> No customs or import fees to Japan
> 
> Netherlands: from djankie
> Custom fees with green sum : 35.81 euro.
> Custom fees with samsungDC or something; 43,41
> 
> Sweden: from slaktfarfar
> After my Catleap got stuck in customs i had to pay 25% of what i paid for the screen ($394) which was $98.
> I bought mine from Green-sum.
> And i know another one ordering from green-sum also had to pay taxes.
> But another guy ordering from dcsamsungmall didnt have to.
> green-sum used EMS and dcsamsungmall used fedex maybe thats was because.
> 
> U.K.: From whybother
> Marked at £30 the customs fee will simply be VAT or £6. The shipping company also charges a fee tho.
> http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/
> Monitors imported to the UK:
> Value <£135 = 20%
> Value >£135 = 14% (Duty) + 20% of Value + Duty
> Plus shipping company fee.
> http://www.dutycalculator.com/help_center/will-there-be-any-extra-charges-from-the-shipping-provider/
> If the monitor was marked with a value of £250 and shipped via Royal Mail, your total customs fee would be £100. Gotta love this country...
> If marked as a gift and less than £36 there should be no customs charge tho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How to properly take pictures of your backlight bleed
> 
> 
> 
> If you are unlucky and receive a monitor with bad back light bleed (BLB), you will probably be thinking "Can I return my monitor for this?" and want others opinions on it. *To properly show the level of BLB your monitor has, here are some standards to guide you to photograph your monitor. This will help members here judge if your BLB is manageable or unacceptable.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Overclocking Guide and Help
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 1*
> 
> Update your video card drivers to the newest version.
> If using a crossfire (multi AMD GPU) setup, than multiple crossfire bridges must be used. For example, if crossfiring two GPUs than two crossfire bridges must be used.
> 
> Note: If you have a 200 or below series Nvidia card (ex: GTX260, etc.), reports suggest that an OC above 96 Hz is not possible. Time for an upgade!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Step 2*
> 
> Single and SLI Nvidia card setups can patch their Nvidia driver to overclock (Note: It is not necessary to do any patch. I would try without patching first). The patch is more important for SLI card owners. *[CLICK] The patch is found here.*
> 
> AMD/ATI card owners need to patch their driver. The patch used is different than the Nvidia one used above. *[CLICK] Instructions and patch can be found here.*
> (Note: new patch doesn't make your comp go into test mode. yay!)
> 
> *Step 3*
> 
> Nvidia and AMD:
> Download and install the *[CLICK] Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) here.*
> 
> To use the utility above: click the stock 60Hz profile, press the copy button, make a new profile and then use the paste button. This has created a mirror image of the stock profile. Next, just edit the refresh rate number at the bottom (should be 60 originally) to something like 96. *Here is some explanation + pictures of the window that pops up to edit your custom refresh rate in CRU* *[CLICK]*. This makes a refresh rate profile for your computer of 96 Hz. Once that's done, reboot your computer can go into your computer settings (catalyst control center for AMD, and Nvidia control panel for Nvidia) and choose the refresh rate that you just created.
> 
> If having bad OC results, it may help to have the "LCD Reduced" enabled in CRU. Also, in CCC enable Reduce DVI Frequency.
> 
> *Step 4*
> 
> Test and verify your OC. Some use cameras with specific shutter speeds and such, which works. A method less time-consuming is to go to this website and check it. http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping
> 
> Open the website, let your computer sit and do not move the mouse or switch screens. It should stabilize after a moment and a green verified box will appear and next to it, the refresh rate.
> 
> *Trouble Shooting*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Color Calibration Profiles (ICC) and How to install them
> 
> 
> 
> First off, how to install them.
> 
> What you are downloading is file that will change color output (as well as other stuff) in a .icc file.
> *[CLICK] How to install Color Calibration Profiles explained here on TFT Central*
> 
> *Some wise words about choosing the 'right' color calibration profile:*
> 
> Profiles for the name-brand monitors that have the same PLS panel inside of them as the QNIX & X-star might work out for you. Calibrations posted *[CLICK] here at TFT Central* may be stock factory and/or personal calibrations for said monitors. *Personally, out of every calibration profile posted here the Asus PB278Q.icc (TFT Central source, not User source) looked the best on my monitor, and is a favorite for others as well.* (It becomes named Asus PB278Q v3.icc when loaded into windows color management).
> Name brand monitors that have the same PLS panel internally Go to tft central and download these:
> Asus PB278Q
> Samsung S27A850D
> Viewsonic VP2770-LED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How to vesa-mount the De-bezeled monitor (no plastic framing)
> 
> 
> 
> Vesa mount for de-bezeled monitor
> Screen bezel painting guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How to solve Panel Play and an off-center/cut-off screen
> 
> 
> 
> This is a solution I found to stop the screen from being able to move inside the monitor casing, aka "Panel Play." It also solves the screen image from being cut off on the bottom by having the screen sit higher inside the monitor casing. It is a simple fix only requiring a flat-edged tool (screw driver), some patience and some electrical tape. I have quoted myself from a different thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Tape Mod to fix back light bleed
> 
> 
> 
> Comprehensive video playlist showing how to do the dismantle the monitor and do the Tape Mod
> 
> 
> 
> . This starts on video 1 of 17. To streamline the process, it is suggested to watch videos 1-5, skip 6-10, watch 11-13. Assembly is in the reverse order.
> 
> 
> 
> https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1xnHrIXDykUq8RyL9_hbhtJttXymXKJk0mB8EguX-EAY/viewform?embedded=true
> 
> Members List
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc&single=true&gid=0&output=html&widget=true
> If anyone wants to edit their information, pm me.
> 
> Club signature code
> Current idea for the club signature. Open to changes, let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Korean PLS Monitor Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [CENTER]:clock:  [B][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-2560x1440-pls-monitor-club] The Korean PLS Monitor Club[/URL][/B] :clock:[/CENTER]


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Color Calibration Profiles (ICC) and How to install them
> 
> 
> 
> First off, how to install them.
> 
> What you are downloading is file that will change color output (as well as other stuff) in a .icc file.
> *[CLICK] How to install Color Calibration Profiles explained here on TFT Central*
> 
> *Some wise words about choosing the 'right' color calibration profile:*
> 
> Profiles for the name-brand monitors that have the same PLS panel inside of them as the QNIX & X-star might work out for you. Calibrations posted *[CLICK] here at TFT Central* may be stock factory and/or personal calibrations for said monitors. *Personally, out of every calibration profile posted here the Asus PB278Q.icc (TFT Central source, not User source) looked the best on my monitor, and is a favorite for others as well.* (It becomes named Asus PB278Q v3.icc when loaded into windows color management).
> Name brand monitors that have the same PLS panel internally Go to tft central and download these:
> Asus PB278Q
> Samsung S27A850D
> Viewsonic VP2770-LED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How to vesa-mount the De-bezeled monitor (no plastic framing)
> 
> 
> 
> Vesa mount for de-bezeled monitor
> Screen bezel painting guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How to solve Panel Play and an off-center/cut-off screen
> 
> 
> 
> This is a solution I found to stop the screen from being able to move inside the monitor casing, aka "Panel Play." It also solves the screen image from being cut off on the bottom by having the screen sit higher inside the monitor casing. It is a simple fix only requiring a flat-edged tool (screw driver), some patience and some electrical tape. I have quoted myself from a different thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Tape Mod to fix back light bleed
> 
> 
> 
> Comprehensive video playlist showing how to do the dismantle the monitor and do the Tape Mod
> 
> 
> 
> . This starts on video 1 of 17. To streamline the process, it is suggested to watch videos 1-5, skip 6-10, watch 11-13. Assembly is in the reverse order.
> 
> 
> 
> https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1xnHrIXDykUq8RyL9_hbhtJttXymXKJk0mB8EguX-EAY/viewform?embedded=true
> 
> Members List
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Atv4EFeCPA8odDdCLWdrU0NKeDFiUF9BbzV5OUVQYWc&single=true&gid=0&output=html&widget=true
> If anyone wants to edit their information, pm me.
> 
> Club signature code
> Current idea for the club signature. Open to changes, let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Korean PLS Monitor Club*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :clock: *http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-2560x1440-pls-monitor-club] The Korean PLS Monito*​


*


Code:


[IMG alt="post-flame-small.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/post-flame-small.gif[/IMG][B][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-2560x1440-pls-monitor-club]The Korean PLS Monito[/URL][/B][/QUOTE]

*​


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


Click under Colour Calibration Profiles (ICC) & How to install them below. www.tftcentral.co.uk is a good reference for profiles if you don't have a calibrator of your own, whcih is th ebest option. There will be some discrepancy from panel to panel.[/quote]

You have to the letter just confirmed this,

1:Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
2:Select the display you want.
3:Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
4:Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
5:Click "ok"
6:Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
7:Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
8:Click on the new "advanced" tab and click "Use Windows Display Calibration".


----------



## Jman7309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAC901*
> 
> Hey does it look anything like my pictures here??
> I got mine from accessorieswhole also last week. It looks like many people who got theirs from them recently has this problem. I'm going to try to get a refund.


This is exactly what mine looks like and I also bought from accessorieswhole. Will be contacting them today to discuss a refund since this is an obvious defect and not mentioned as an acceptable defect in their advertisements. As a side note, mine is across the entire panel and is a NIGHTMARE when doing anything besides playing games. Some movies are almost unbearable to watch due to a lot of blacks where the defect shows through.


----------



## Jman7309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DAC901*
> 
> Hey does it look anything like my pictures here??
> I got mine from accessorieswhole also last week. It looks like many people who got theirs from them recently has this problem. I'm going to try to get a refund.


Also, I wonder if this could be fixed through simply adjusting the panel screws as mentioned in this thread-since yours is only on one side it leads me to believe this could just be caused by too much pressure, but that is just a guess.


----------



## tomka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jman7309*
> 
> Also, I wonder if this could be fixed through simply adjusting the panel screws as mentioned in this thread-since yours is only on one side it leads me to believe this could just be caused by too much pressure, but that is just a guess.


Hmm, interesting idea, I have it on the right side only . That would be awesome. Unfortunately, I'm not really skilled in HW tuning. Will you try this?


----------



## Gilles3000

My monitor arrived









So far it seems to be prefect, no dead pixels, no horrendous backlight bleed, no striping bleed. I'll have to check again tonight to test it in complete darkness but it seems fine now.
If i have to criticize it on one tiny thing, there's a minor imperfection in the bezel, but its barely noticeable unless you really look at it.
Anyway, i couldn't be happier, colors look great, workspace is enormous, text looks crisp, movies look geat,...

I haven't gotten to overclocking and gaming yet, that'll have to wait until i get my new gpu.

Info:
Model: Qnix QX2710
Seller: storewithstory
Price: $330
Glossy/Matte: Matte
Overclock: ?
Issues: None.
Other: Perfect pixel max. 1 black pixel; +€40 tax

Pictures:
Box was in pretty good condition


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> My monitor arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far it seems to be prefect, no dead pixels, no horrendous backlight bleed, no striping bleed. I'll have to check again tonight to test it in complete darkness but it seems fine now.
> If i have to criticize it on one tiny thing, there's a minor imperfection in the bezel, but its barely noticeable unless you really look at it.
> Anyway, i couldn't be happier, colors look great, workspace is enormous, text looks crisp, movies look geat,...
> 
> I haven't gotten to overclocking and gaming yet, that'll have to wait until i get my new gpu.
> 
> Info:
> Model: Qnix QX2710
> Seller: storewithstory
> Price: $330
> Glossy/Matte: Matte
> Overclock: ?
> Issues: None.
> Other: Perfect pixel max. 1 black pixel; +€40 tax
> 
> Pictures:
> Box was in pretty good condition


Looks great mate...welcome to the club


----------



## Watagump

I just wonder how these ebay sellers come up with their names.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I just wonder how these ebay sellers come up with their names.


Hmm i wonder if excellentcastle lives or once lived in a really nice castle?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hmm i wonder if excellentcastle lives or once lived in a really nice castle?


I dunno, did the store have a story?


----------



## tomka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jman7309*
> 
> Also, I wonder if this could be fixed through simply adjusting the panel screws as mentioned in this thread-since yours is only on one side it leads me to believe this could just be caused by too much pressure, but that is just a guess.


I just tried to apply some pressure on top and bottom corners and lines almost disappeared, there is a hope that it really is "only" BLB and removing plastics can cure this, thank you!


----------



## Jman7309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomka*
> 
> Hmm, interesting idea, I have it on the right side only . That would be awesome. Unfortunately, I'm not really skilled in HW tuning. Will you try this?


I will try it, but only if accessorieswhole refuses to replace it and my squaretrade ebay warranty won't cover it. If I have no way to replace it I will since I worry that opening the monitor and tinkering may ruin any chance of accessorieswhole replacing it. If I do I will get back to you; I just e-mailed them 30 min ago about the issue and I will update.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I found a workaround that allows CRU to work with GeForce Experience. I updated the download page with the new information:
> I also released a driver restarter so you can test different configurations without rebooting:
> Note for NVIDIA users: GeForce Experience is known to cause issues with EDID overrides such as resolutions being listed in the NVIDIA control panel but not in the Windows screen resolution settings. Either uninstall GeForce Experience, or enable the extension block and import this file: blank-extension.dat


Hi ToastyX i did just retry CRU importing the blank-extension.dat however GeForce Experience seemed to not be responding afterwards and also would not connect to the nvidia server and could not see any of my games to optimize?....therefore i have gone back to using NVCP and the Qnix.inf monitor driver file as ALL my games are seeing my higher refresh rates and GeForce Experience is now working flawlessly again....thanks for your continuous work and support with your software


----------



## Jman7309

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomka*
> 
> I just tried to apply some pressure on top and bottom corners and lines almost disappeared, there is a hope that it really is "only" BLB and removing plastics can cure this, thank you!


Just for clarity, how exactly did you do this? Did you remove anything first or just squeeze the corners? Do you think tightening the screws would keep said pressure applied? I have yet to see the inside of one of these.


----------



## tomka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jman7309*
> 
> Just for clarity, how exactly did you do this? Did you remove anything first or just squeeze the corners? Do you think tightening the screws would keep said pressure applied? I have yet to see the inside of one of these.


Nothing removed. Just hold up and down corner on the same side (right side - I have lines here) and pushed first one towards me and second in one opposite direction...


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I told you to avoid the Spyder4Pro since it's around the same price as the Colormunki and is inferior.
> 
> A profile with your colorimeter on your display will almost *always* be better than another's profile on his screen, *especially* if you use the same colorimeter and do not muck around with color calibration settings without knowing what you're doing.


Yeah you are right.
I bought another Spyder4Express for 64€ and return the other one because my colors were way to much red as you can clearly see some posts ago. Grey was really very red instead of pure grey.
Do you have any knowledge why that was happening? It was also red when i used the original software instead of Argyll also also when doing a calibration on another Monitor at a different pc (but also a qnix).
Well lets see if the new Spyder4Express will give me better results...


----------



## ottoman2

I have been testing around with my Qnix at 120 Hz and despite the uniformity issues on a green/grey full screen, I have found another issue. I noticed some kind of very light ghosting on my desktop, when using notepad. To reproduce this, do the followng steps:
- the left half of my screen was green, I used http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=4
- the right side was a text document filled with "X"

Here is the result on my screen:


And the same screen with only a white background on the right side:

(you have to click on the images to see it completely)

This effect starts as soon as you overclock (I tested 70 Hz) and gets stronger the higher you oc. I didn't notice until now and found it only by accident. It would be nice if you guys could try this on your screens.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomka*
> 
> Nothing removed. Just hold up and down corner on the same side (right side - I have lines here) and pushed first one towards me and second in one opposite direction...


I took it apart and all. Still couldn't fix the lines. Isn't worth trying. They seem gone but aren't...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoman2*
> 
> I have been testing around with my Qnix at 120 Hz and despite the uniformity issues on a green/grey full screen, I have found another issue. I noticed some kind of very light ghosting on my desktop, when using notepad. To reproduce this, do the followng steps:
> - the left half of my screen was green, I used http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=4
> - the right side was a text document filled with "X"
> 
> Here is the result on my screen:
> 
> 
> And the same screen with only a white background on the right side:
> 
> (you have to click on the images to see it completely)
> 
> This effect starts as soon as you overclock (I tested 70 Hz) and gets stronger the higher you oc. I didn't notice until now and found it only by accident. It would be nice if you guys could try this on your screens.


Its image retention that you can see at 120hz you could try to reduce your timings the best you can use 2652x1445 for your totals at 120hz...or you could also try using the LCD reduced option in CRU as this may help you?...i really don't suffer from any noticeable image retention


----------



## tomka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> I took it apart and all. Still couldn't fix the lines. Isn't worth trying. They seem gone but aren't...


Thx for info! You went with refund or return (we have your panel







?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomka*
> 
> Thx for info! You went with refund or return (we have your panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


"We" ?

Are you a seller ?

...

Edit: never mind, I'm dealing with paypal now for a refund.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoman2*
> 
> I have been testing around with my Qnix at 120 Hz and despite the uniformity issues on a green/grey full screen, I have found another issue. I noticed some kind of very light ghosting on my desktop, when using notepad. To reproduce this, do the followng steps:
> - the left half of my screen was green, I used http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=4
> - the right side was a text document filled with "X"
> 
> Here is the result on my screen:
> 
> 
> And the same screen with only a white background on the right side:
> 
> (you have to click on the images to see it completely)
> 
> This effect starts as soon as you overclock (I tested 70 Hz) and gets stronger the higher you oc. I didn't notice until now and found it only by accident. It would be nice if you guys could try this on your screens.


I also have absolutely no image retention at 120 Hz (i'm using custom timing tho).
Maybe try as lawson mentioned to lower your pixel clock and check again if its happening.


----------



## Hl86

My Qnix made some weird colours and died at 120 Hz :/
Any other options other than return?


----------



## tomka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> "We" ?
> 
> Are you a seller ?
> 
> ...
> 
> Edit: never mind, I'm dealing with paypal now for a refund.


No









I wanted to say that one of us (me, Jetlitheone, Dac) could have your returned panel. Now WE know, we have not


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The key to all of this is having a Qnix monitor driver file which i have posted below...install the Qnix monitor driver file...delete the custom refresh rates from CRU ..now restart and go into NVCP set your Custom resolutions in there NOW and for your *120hz profile* use *MANUAL* for your timings and set your totals at 2652x1445 this of course will bring your pixel clock down and give you a stronger signal...also if using windows 8 as i do you will need to disable windows 8 Driver signature enforcement for just one windows session so that you can install the driver...so i have put a link below explaining how to do this...so good luck and enjoy using Nvidia Gerforce Experience once again as i am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> Turn off for one session only windows 8 Driver signature enforcement
> 
> http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


Lawson.

I did this and it works great. Except with changing the timings to 2652x1445 the font gets a little stretched and the full screen browsers extend beyond the visible panel. I understand why this happens but is it worth it? The font is harder to read. The main benefit is to increase the signal? Is it worth the consequences? Or is there something I'm missing?

GeForce Experience working again. Nice work!


----------



## Robbie G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweetheej*
> 
> Guys !! Dream-seller on ebay will have a great deal on X-star at $ 279.00 from tonight ! What a surprise!


Not valid for UK buyers







.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Lawson.
> 
> I did this and it works great. Except with changing the timings to 2652x1445 the font gets a little stretched and the full screen browsers extend beyond the visible panel. I understand why this happens but is it worth it? The font is harder to read. The main benefit is to increase the signal? Is it worth the consequences? Or is there something I'm missing?
> 
> GeForce Experience working again. Nice work!


Hey Osteoman i don't get font stretched and the full screen browsers extending beyond the visible panel at all?..... set your all of your manual timings the exact same as mine in the picture below.
The lower you can get the pixel clock to its limit which is 450mhz the less chance of any kind of artefacts...however if your fine without doing this then go for it.;..however i believe if you have your timings the exact same as mine in the picture then you should be fine... and not get this browser extending business etc


----------



## Dankal

is there any downside to overclocking monitor? Mine goes up to 100 stable but I want to know if this small boost will shorten the life span dramatically


----------



## ottoman2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Its image retention that you can see at 120hz you could try to reduce your timings the best you can use 2652x1445 for your totals at 120hz...or you could also try using the LCD reduced option in CRU as this may help you?...i really don't suffer from any noticeable image retention


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I also have absolutely no image retention at 120 Hz (i'm using custom timing tho).
> Maybe try as lawson mentioned to lower your pixel clock and check again if its happening.


I don't have image retention because these artifacts disappear as soon as I change the text document. As I understand it, image retention means these artifacts stay for a period of time. Like seeing shades of the Windows task bar or browser bar even when they are not actually visible. I said specifically that the effect already starts at 70 Hz and has therefor nothing to do with my pixel clock, which is 459 MHz at a 120 Hz refresh rate. I am sure that you or lawson67 don't see any image retention on your screens at 120 Hz, because I don't see it either. It's only in this specific case that I can see it and I described exactly how to reproduce it. Please try it yourself: one half of the screen is green, while the other half is filled with a lot of black "X" letters on white background. I used notepad with the Fixedsys font.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey Osteoman i don't get font stretched and the full screen browsers extending beyond the visible panel at all?..... set your all of your manual timings the exact same as mine in the picture below.
> The lower you can get the pixel clock to its limit which is 450mhz the less chance of any kind of artefacts...however if your fine without doing this then go for it.;..however i believe if you have your timings the exact same as mine in the picture then you should be fine... and not get this browser extending business etc


OMG, I'm too embarrassed to mention how I messed that up. Anyway, I got it corrected. Thanks for the pic. and the work on this. Looks great and very stable at 120hz. So far I have not noticed any image retention that some people are having.

Now if they will just get Geforce Experience working with more games. Isn't funny how, as people who trick out our PCs, we are never quite happy with them, always wanting to squeeze out just a little more juice.

Now I'm thinking two of these monitors would be awesome.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dankal*
> 
> is there any downside to overclocking monitor? Mine goes up to 100 stable but I want to know if this small boost will shorten the life span dramatically


I run mine at 120hz 24/7 and i don't not believe for one minute i an shortening its life or degrading any of its components....we are not raising voltage to over clock these monitors therefore we should not be overheating any components....its my personal belief that my Qnix running at 120hz 24/7 will have a life span the same as any other branded monitor.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I run mine at 120hz 24/7 and i don't not believe for one minute i an shortening its life or degrading any of its components....we are not raising voltage to over clock these monitors therefore we should not be overheating any components....its my personal belief that my Qnix running at 120hz 24/7 will have a life span the same as any other branded monitor.


Well you will find out some day, but then again maybe you wont.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> OMG, I'm too embarrassed to mention how I messed that up. Anyway, I got it corrected. Thanks for the pic. and the work on this. Looks great and very stable at 120hz. So far I have not noticed any image retention that some people are having.
> 
> Now if they will just get Geforce Experience working with more games. Isn't funny how, as people who trick out our PCs, we are never quite happy with them, always wanting to squeeze out just a little more juice.
> 
> Now I'm thinking two of these monitors would be awesome.


I have to admit i am also thinking of buying another...i would like as a project to get the monex....NCX says the build qulity of the case etc is very good...so would like to see if i can get one of the sellers to sell me a Qnix PCB Board and try to put that into a glossy Monex as they are so much cheaper right now than a true Qnix Glossy and overclock it ....NCX clams there PCB does not overclock on the Monex.....however they appear to have the same samsung pls panel we have....so i am thinking with a Qnix PCB it should work


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well you will find out some day, but then again maybe you wont.


I have been overclocking my computers for years ...my old core 2 extreme CPU i had overclocked by 600mhz from 3.00ghz to 3.60ghz without the need to raise the voltage which also meant i did not need to upgrade the heatsink as it did not get any hotter...i had that computer for 5 years and i sold it a friend about a year ago and it is still running perfectly fine today...

My haswell I7-4770k is also overclocked to 4.5ghz from 3.5ghz but i needed to raise the voltage to achive this...however i have it sat under a waterblock and even when gaming for hours on end "Real Temp" reports that my max temp did not exceed 67c....so i also do not believe i am harming my I7-4770k in anyway being able to keep it at that temperature and below ....and as a result of that my I7-4770k is also overclocked 24/7 at 4.5ghz


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ottoman2*
> 
> I don't have image retention because these artifacts disappear as soon as I change the text document. As I understand it, image retention means these artifacts stay for a period of time. Like seeing shades of the Windows task bar or browser bar even when they are not actually visible. I said specifically that the effect already starts at 70 Hz and has therefor nothing to do with my pixel clock, which is 459 MHz at a 120 Hz refresh rate. I am sure that you or lawson67 don't see any image retention on your screens at 120 Hz, because I don't see it either. It's only in this specific case that I can see it and I described exactly how to reproduce it. Please try it yourself: one half of the screen is green, while the other half is filled with a lot of black "X" letters on white background. I used notepad with the Fixedsys font.


Yeah i tried to reproduce this with your description but i cant see such things as you on my monitor.
I captured some photos just like you but everything is perfect.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I have been overclocking my computers for years ...my old core 2 extreme CPU i had overclocked by 600mhz from 3.00ghz to 3.60ghz without the need to raise the voltage which also meant i did not need to upgrade the heatsink as it did not get any hotter...i had that computer for 5 years and i sold it a friend about a year ago and it is still running perfectly fine today


Thats not a monitor, we don't have enough info yet to see if they will suffer. I OC just like most of us, but not my monitor, but then again, this Asus gets frame skipping at anything over 60hz. Here is a test for you overclockers.

http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping


----------



## DCat

Hi - quick couple of questions which I hope someone here can help me with:

1. My QX2710 fails oc on 120 hz; it makes 90 easily and will probably go higher. Will adding another card (to make crossfire) improve chances of success or does that have no bearing at all?

2. Is it a case of 120 or nothing else - or is, day, 100 going to help out with games?

Thanks


----------



## hammelgammler

Any suggestions if it's actually worth to buy some shorter dvi cable even if i reach 120hz with custom timings and stock cable?
Have bought a 1.5m cable and a 1m cable.
The 1m gave me equal results comparing to the stock cable, and with the 1.5m cable im getting 10MHz pixel clock more then with the stock cable.
The only thing that would be better would be a lower pixel clock when overclocking to 120hz (144hz will be very hard to achieve i think)...
I could only get some shorter cables as there are no 24awg cables as in america...
I can only not getting lower with the pixel clock then 2652 in width in CRU with all of the tested cables.
Sorry if this seems to be a very stupid question but im interested in such things as it's kind of a hobby to get the "best" OC results like with a PC.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DCat*
> 
> Hi - quick couple of questions which I hope someone here can help me with:
> 
> 1. My QX2710 fails oc on 120 hz; it makes 90 easily and will probably go higher. Will adding another card (to make crossfire) improve chances of success or does that have no bearing at all?
> 
> 2. Is it a case of 120 or nothing else - or is, day, 100 going to help out with games?
> 
> Thanks


Overclocking is always hit or miss, even with others getting 120hz.


----------



## DCat

Sure I appreciate that there are no guarantees Watagump but could you help with my specific questions please? Thanks for your help.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DCat*
> 
> Sure I appreciate that there are no guarantees Watagump but could you help with my specific questions please? Thanks for your help.


The monitor is doing what its going to do, adding another card, isn't going to help. Its just like 2 different cards might not overclock the same.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DCat*
> 
> Hi - quick couple of questions which I hope someone here can help me with:
> 
> 1. My QX2710 fails oc on 120 hz; it makes 90 easily and will probably go higher. Will adding another card (to make crossfire) improve chances of success or does that have no bearing at all?
> 
> 2. Is it a case of 120 or nothing else - or is, day, 100 going to help out with games?
> 
> Thanks


You can benefit from anything above 60. Since the point is to be able to increase your fps in games while still in vsync.

Assuming you have the graphics card horsepower for it, if you were able to overclock to 96Hz, you could run your games in vsync and see smoother gameplay at 96fps as compared to stock 60fps at 60Hz. Of course you can run without vsync and get as fast as your graphics card/s will power as far as fps (For those games that aren't capped that is.) However, without the vsync in games you will get tearing.

I also agree that adding another video card will not help whether your monitor can overclock (I don't believe.) , but it will help how fast you can run the games in vsync.

So basically the faster you can OC it, the more fps you can get in a vsynced game. (Again this is assuming you have the powerful graphics card/s for it.) You will therefore benefit to some degree for any amount over 60. Many people run it at 96Hz, if they can't reach 120 because it coincides with a multiple of how fast movies run (FPS) (I don't watch movies on mine so I don't know much about this.)

Hope my explanation wasn't too confusing.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I have to admit i am also thinking of buying another...i would like as a project to get the monex and see if i can get one of the sellers to sell me a Qnix PCB Board and try to put that into a glossy Monex and overclock it ....NCX clams there PCB does not overclock on the Monex.....however they appear to have the same samsung pls panel we have....so i am thinking it should work


I assume the main benfit (besides being a job well done when you make it work.) is to get the better built monitor that is glossy to OC?

But then if you used them in a dual setup they are not going to match well (one glossy, one matte I mean.) Course you could then sell the Qnix and buy two glossy.

Compared to my Dell U2711 this Qnix is "glossy" so I love it!

Oh, I am seeing the darkness in the upper right corner in the gray background screen of this website as well. Not a big deal but thought I would mention it.


----------



## livejamie

If I wanted to run a dual monitor setup with these are they compatible with my AMD Radeon 7850?

http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/7000/7850/pages/radeon-7850.aspx


----------



## DCat

Osteoman your explaination was very clear and helpful. Thanks


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Thats not a monitor, we don't have enough info yet to see if they will suffer. I OC just like most of us, but not my monitor, but then again, this Asus gets frame skipping at anything over 60hz. Here is a test for you overclockers.
> 
> http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping


It is true that we don't know enough about monitor overclocking...but what we do know is that we can degrade electrical circuitry and components by running more voltage though them than they are designed take....we also know that heat can degrade components...and we also know if we run raised voltage though a component that it would run hotter...so based on those assumptions and the fact that as we are not doing any of the mentioned it is my personal belief that i am not harming my monitor in anyway what so ever and i am more than happy to keep it running at 120hz 24/7... i will also be more than happy to report on this forum if i blow it up as a result of runing 120hz 24/7....however i am more than confident i will not need to report that


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I assume the main benfit (besides being a job well done when you make it work.) is to get the better built monitor that is glossy to OC?
> 
> But then if you used them in a dual setup they are not going to match well (one glossy, one matte I mean.) Course you could then sell the Qnix and buy two glossy.
> 
> Compared to my Dell U2711 this Qnix is "glossy" so I love it!
> 
> Oh, I am seeing the darkness in the upper right corner in the gray background screen of this website as well. Not a big deal but thought I would mention it.


Yes better build quality and the fact that they are so cheap right now compared to a true Glossy Qnix...so if i could get my hands on Qnix PCB Board for the right price it would be interesting and fun to try this little project out...it would also open up an option if for only a shot time before the Koreans worked out what we where doing and raised prices to allow user to get a better built glossy cheaper....of course only if the above worked out...i would like to have one and try the project just for kicks really


----------



## lawson67

I have just asked accessorieswhole this...Hi i would like to know if you can supply me with a PCB board only for the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll...if so how much would this cost?....i await his reply


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I have just asked accessorieswhole this...Hi i would like to know if you can supply me with a PCB board only for the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll...if so how much would this cost?....i await his reply


Interesting. We'll see you make this work and you just start making a few here and there and soon you have yourself a monitor business. Maybe Overlord monitors would hire you.


----------



## HOTDOGS

What power cable replacement have people been buying?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> What power cable replacement have people been buying?


You will not buy a better PSU than this....Amazon UK / U.S.A sell them

CWT 12V 5A 60W Power Supply (P/N:CAD060121)


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You will not buy a better PSU than this....Amazon UK / U.S.A sell them
> 
> CWT 12V 5A 60W Power Supply (P/N:CAD060121)


WOW! Thanks for the quick reply? Why that one specifically?

Edit: 1000th post


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> WOW! Thanks for the quick reply? Why that one specifically?
> 
> Edit: 1000th post


Because they are made by Channel Well Technology the same people who build corsairs PSU,....and are leaders in there field along with the likes of seasonic

Congratulations with your 1000th post


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Because they are made by Channel Well Technology the same people who build corsairs PSU,....and are leaders in there field along with the likes of seasonic
> 
> Congratulations with your 1000th post


Oh, okay! I really appreciate your help: +rep. But, I can't finds them on Amazon.ca or eBay.ca, unless they are shipping fromt he UK. I would like to get it as soon as possible, so I may have to opt for an off brand one.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Do you guys think I'll be okay getting the non-SE version?

Really wanna order my new one...


----------



## HOTDOGS

Here is what I found to be the cheapest cable that ships from Canada:

http://www.amazon.ca/HQRP-Adapter-Monitor-Replacement-Coaster/dp/B00E8DBLHG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1392168355&sr=1-1&keywords=12V+5A+60W

It matches the same specs as mentioned by lawson67. I'm going to pull the trigger in the next 10 minutes, unless provides me with a reason not to.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Oh, okay! I really appreciate your help: +rep. But, I can't finds them on Amazon.ca or eBay.ca, unless they are shipping fromt he UK. I would like to get it as soon as possible, so I may have to opt for an off brand one.


Same one older model...still just as good

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Genuine-CWT-12V4-16A-60W-PAA050-AC-adapter-for-TVs-and-LCD-Monitors-/251431112450?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item3a8a764f02&_uhb=1


----------



## HOTDOGS

Thirty five dollars is pretty expensive for me.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Thirty five dollars is pretty expensive for me.


Eat less hot dogs.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Do you guys think I'll be okay getting the non-SE version?
> 
> Really wanna order my new one...


Theres no difference in specs at all!....apart from the fact the SE models arrive broken


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Eat less hot dogs.


Hahah I'm on a ramen and hot dog diet due to school anyways haha!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Eat less hot dogs.


LOL


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Theres no difference in specs at all!....apart from the fact the SE models arrive broken


Yes lol that's why I'm hesitant! Lol everyone that ordered the SE version has had issues


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Hahah I'm on a ramen and hot dog diet due to school anyways haha!


I use to take ramen, drain the broth, then put butter in it to melt and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, you are welcome.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Yes lol that's why I'm hesitant! Lol everyone that ordered the SE version has had issues


Correct so seeing as the specs are the same anyhow and you don't want a broken one...................

BTW: i love my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll non se........


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I use to take ramen, drain the broth, then put butter in it to melt and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, you are welcome.


Sounds good, but I don't eat dairy!







I'm sure there alternative sauces though! My personal favorite is draining the water and pan frying it with the spice, plus some chicken or beef.









Also, I went with just purchasing an american power cable. I trust the power supply, but not the adapter.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Correct so seeing as the specs are the same anyhow and you don't want a broken one...................
> 
> BTW: i love my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll non se........


That does seem nice









I think I will try the lottery again... im so hesitant now lol


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> That does seem nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will try the lottery again... im so hesitant now lol


Excellentcastle $330 Ultimate PP. It's like buying an extra lottery ticket!!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Excellentcastle $330 Ultimate PP. It's like buying an extra lottery ticket!!


Yet the odds are the same.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Excellentcastle $330 Ultimate PP. It's like buying an extra lottery ticket!!


Does excellentcastle use insurance?

ahh oh poop I cant make any more offers I tried multiple lower than that and he denied them







lol


----------



## Osteoman

I don't know the answer about the insurance. I'm sorry. I figured I was pretty close to the low end on the price. Thanks for confirming it though. I think you were smart to aim lower though.


----------



## ronnie_gogs

I need to try overclocking my QNIX. Will try tonight.

So I have to uninstall Geforce experience to achieve it ? I tried using the CRU but I cant seem to get the frequency show up in my advanced settings for my display.


----------



## renji1337

How do you clean these things? I tried a small ammount of isoproply alcohl 70% heavily diluted in water, and then i tried just water and it always leaves streaks -_- I mean i cant notice them when the monitor is on but i want them gone


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> How do you clean these things? I tried a small ammount of isoproply alcohl 70% heavily diluted in water, and then i tried just water and it always leaves streaks -_- I mean i cant notice them when the monitor is on but i want them gone


I clean all my monitors with just water and microfiber towels.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I clean all my monitors with just water and microfiber towels.


distilled water or tap?


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey Osteoman i remember when i was helping you to overclock your monitor when you first got it...and to use CRU i told you that you had to Uninstall Nvidia Gerforce Experience because CRU has a conflict with it ....which is well documented and which i proved when i tried to use my custom profiles though CRU with Nvidia Gerforce Experience installed......nothing worked until i uninsulated ( Nvidia Gerforce Experience )...also i remember you was quite upset about having to uninstall it the same as i was due to the fact that we liked the way it set up our games
> 
> However i am pleased to report that i now have Nvidia Gerforce Experience reinstalled and working as intended with my custom refresh profiles....now to get Nvidia Gerforce Experience working again we need to lose CRU....now keep in mind we only need CRU to create custom resolutions so that our *games* will see them and use them....we also knew that we could create custom resolutions within NVCP however our custom profiles using *only NVCP* would only ever work on the desktop and while browsing the web and would not of worked in any games we had installed...this was the reason we had to use CRU in the first place.
> 
> However if you install a driver file for the Qnix monitor and add it to your monitor though device manager you can you can now delete your custom resolutions within CRU ( *dont not delete your 60hz profile in CRU* )and reboot and now create your custom higher refresh resolutions within NVCP and your games will see them and work as intended....Also we can both rejoice at the fact that we can now reinstall Nvidia Gerforce Experience again!
> 
> I have done the above and everything is working just fine... i tested my higher refresh rates are working in Counterstike source by applying Vsync in the Counterstike source benchtest...screen was jammed at 120fps....vsync off i was hitting over 300fps...also tomb raider 4 allows you to set higher refresh rates if your monitor supports them and i was able to set 60hz ...96hz and 120hz in the graphic options...and i can report i was getting 120fps in tomb raider 4....all of the above was working with Nvidia Gerforce Experience installed again and the games optimized from it.
> 
> The key to all of this is having a Qnix monitor driver file which i have posted below...install the Qnix monitor driver file...delete the custom refresh rates from CRU ..now restart and go into NVCP set your Custom resolutions in there NOW and for your *120hz profile* use *MANUAL* for your timings and set your totals at 2652x1445 this of course will bring your pixel clock down and give you a stronger signal...also if using windows 8 as i do you will need to disable windows 8 Driver signature enforcement for just one windows session so that you can install the driver...so i have put a link below explaining how to do this...so good luck and enjoy using Nvidia Gerforce Experience once again as i am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> Turn off for one session only windows 8 Driver signature enforcement
> 
> http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


Ronnie

I reposted this for you. Credit to Lawson.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> diluted water or tap?


Just tap, but I also have soft water. The key to not having streaks is a very damp towel. Spray maybe 1 or 2 times on the towel itself.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> distilled water or tap?


The best and cheapest solution for cleaning screens, lenses and phones is 50% isopropyl alcohol, and 50% distilled water in a mister. Paired with a microfiber cloth, and you can't go wrong! It will save you so much money in the long run, since both cost around a dollar!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> The best and cheapest solution for cleaning screens, lenses and phones is 50% isopropyl alcohol, and 50% distilled water in a mister. Paired with a microfiber cloth, and you can't go wrong! It will save you so much money in the long run, since both cost around a dollar!


But no alcohol makes it even less.


----------



## Jetlitheone

@Open1Your1Eyes0 I remember you from XDA!


----------



## Jetlitheone

So I ordered another, non SE model.

Wish me luck guys!


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> So I ordered another, non SE model.
> 
> Wish me luck guys!


Did he go ahead and pay for return shipping too?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Did he go ahead and pay for return shipping too?


Yes he did


----------



## tracerit

edit: nm


----------



## tracerit

i think i'm gonna get this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

from seller dream-seller however it seems they don't include a US adapter. Any recommendations for a good cable to use?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> So I ordered another, non SE model.
> 
> Wish me luck guys!


YAY well done


----------



## Jetlitheone

Income tax just came in as well. Good day today lol


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Income tax just came in as well. Good day today lol


Oh dear....well it sounds like a nice new shiny monitor running at 120hz is just what you need!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Can you explane why AMD users should not use windows Colour management to install and apply there ICC profiles which it was designed to do by microsoft who also works closely with AMD including Nvidia....Microsoft did NOT design this feature for Nvidia users only ...please explane your point?


...Read the post I have linked in my reply?
What does Microsoft working closely with AMD have to do with anything? Why are you jumping to conclusions? Slow down and read the linked post *carefully*.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> My spyder4 pro has made a fantastic ICC profile for my Qnix...i have completely corrected gamma NO black crush and i been able to calibrate to 99% of sRGB my spyder4 pro has also measured that i have a Gamut of 121.8% of sRGB which means my inferior spyder4 pro has manage to read and measure from my Qnix 21.8% more colours than i need to correctly display sRGB ....my 120hz colour profile looks NO different than running at 60hz colours using dispcalGUI...maybe you should tell Datacolour where they are going wrong?


Dude the Spyder4Pro is the same sensor as the Spyder4Express and you know that. It's either Spyder4Express or pay more and get an X-Rite ColorMunki Display / i1 Display Pro both of which are better at measuring blacks, have less variance, are more accurate, are faster, etc...

The numbers you're getting are completely irrelevant to the discussion. The sensor you have is as far as your reference point goes. If the reference point is not perfectly accurate, then the numbers mean nothing in general, only in the specific case of monitor - sensor - calibration combination you are running.

What about the color gamut? Are you sure you understand what's happening when you say "21.8% more colors than I need to correctly display sRGB"?

I have calibrated both at 60Hz and 110Hz and it's impossible for them to look the same. They look very similar, granted, and with a bit of fiddling they can look even more similar, but they won't be identical. I have also taken photos of the difference which you can find here.

I myself have a Spyder4Express. But yeah, _Datacolor is perfect_. They give you a perfect sensor at ...$150...


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> But no alcohol makes it even less.


But the alcohol speeds the evaporation time, so it dries much quicker.

Edit: I also cancelled my order for the power cable, as I found one in my junk drawer at home!


----------



## bestaan

Quick question, Whenever a Qnix QX2710 is posted on eBay with SE behind the Evolution 2 part, I've noticed they are always a good bit cheaper, Does anyone know what the difference is? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131095618252?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e85e862cc


----------



## muppet847

just ordered an x-star from dream-seller, $279 shipped. fingers crossed, can't wait!


----------



## zerocool135

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zerocool135*
> 
> That does look like a good solution but when i just went to find out how much the shipping was going to be amazon UK said that they cant ship that item to me cause i live in the US and i cant find it on the US amazon site.
> 
> 
> 
> I feel sure you would be able to find someone in the U.S.A selling this.....in fact here you go for a little under 10 bucks as you guys say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-CAD060121-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Charger-/321077049477
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help, I ordered that item but it wasn't a CAD060121. It was another off brand that you can use in place of the CWT one. I was able to find another one on eBay but the only true CWT powersupplys are from international sellers and the shipping is going to be as much as the psu ($20 for psu, $20 for shipping). I really don't want to pay another $40 to get one of these and have it not be what i want.

Since i have another piece of crap adapter, is it possible to wire the barrel connector directly to my Corsair AX760 to power the monitor. I do have some basic understanding of electricity so i know that it will most likely work but i wanted someone else who tried it to confirm before i did just so i don't fry a $350 monitor.


----------



## hammelgammler

I just bought 4 of this cable.
5€ per cable, thats very cheap. Its seems very thick and maybe i will get better results in overclocking with one of these cables.
I know thats i has nothing to say, but theres claimed that the cable cost 60€... Never mind i tested some cable yesterday everything with standard timings in CRU.
Stock cable: 116Hz
CSL 1,5m cable: 118Hz
CSL 1,0m cable: 117Hz
CSL 2,0m cable: 117Hz unstable so not more tested...
Every CSL cable was much thinner then the stock. At least AWG 30.
Weird that the 1m cable performed worse then the 1,5m cable...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> ...Read the post I have linked in my reply?
> What does Microsoft working closely with AMD have to do with anything? Why are you jumping to conclusions? Slow down and read the linked post *carefully*.
> Dude the Spyder4Pro is the same sensor as the Spyder4Express and you know that. It's either Spyder4Express or pay more and get an X-Rite ColorMunki Display / i1 Display Pro both of which are better at measuring blacks, have less variance, are more accurate, are faster, etc...
> 
> The numbers you're getting are completely irrelevant to the discussion. The sensor you have is as far as your reference point goes. If the reference point is not perfectly accurate, then the numbers mean nothing in general, only in the specific case of monitor - sensor - calibration combination you are running.
> 
> What about the color gamut? Are you sure you understand what's happening when you say "21.8% more colors than I need to correctly display sRGB"?
> 
> I have calibrated both at 60Hz and 110Hz and it's impossible for them to look the same. They look very similar, granted, and with a bit of fiddling they can look even more similar, but they won't be identical. I have also taken photos of the difference which you can find here.
> 
> I myself have a Spyder4Express. But yeah, _Datacolor is perfect_. They give you a perfect sensor at ...$150...


Granted you that i did jump to conclusions when you said AMD users should not use windows color management...however from a quick read of your post as most people do in forums that contain over 1300 pages and quoting an earlier post of mine above.... it was hard to see that very unnoticeable little "this" link and to me it looked like you was quoting me as if i had misinformed people with AMD cards by telling them that for no good reason they should not use window color management..

As for my 120hz profile ICC i have NO black crush is my gamma appears 100% corrected my screen looks to the eye the same as my 60hz screen....mate i am a truck driver not a photographer i am also more than happy with the calibration my sypder 4 pro has produced at 120hz and 96hz....however you could inform Datacolor where they are going wrong and how to properly measure and read blacks!.. then all of us poor spyder 4 owners could have a screen as good as yours!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> How do you clean these things? I tried a small ammount of isoproply alcohl 70% heavily diluted in water, and then i tried just water and it always leaves streaks -_- I mean i cant notice them when the monitor is on but i want them gone


I use Vodka and newspaper!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Granted you that i did jump to conclusions when you said AMD users should not use windows color management...however from a quick read of your post as most people do in forums that contain over 1300 pages and quoting an earlier post of mine above.... it was hard to see that very unnoticeable little "this" link and to me it looked like you was quoting me as if i had misinformed people with AMD cards by telling them that for no good reason they should not use window color management..


That's fair enough.
Quote:


> As for my 120hz profile ICC i have NO black crush is my gamma appears 100% corrected my screen looks to the eye the same as my 60hz screen....mate i am a truck driver not a photographer i am also more than happy with the calibration my sypder 4 pro has produced at 120hz and 96hz....however you could inform Datacolor where they are going wrong and how to properly measure and read blacks!.. then all of us poor spyder 4 owners could have a screen as good as yours!


LOL I never said the Spyder4 was a bad sensor, by any means! I've used it for more than 25 displays and counting, and I've gotten fantastic results. My point was that for the price of the Spyder4Pro, there is a better colorimeter, which is the D3 sensor used in the i1 Display Pro and the Colormunki Display. For the sensor of the Spyder4Pro, one could go for the Spyder4Express and use that with ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI and that is a GREAT deal for the price it's at, a very good and solid entry into the world of calibration and color profiles.


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Well the beast arrived today. I got the Ultimate Pixel Perfect version from ExcellentCastle (paid asking price of $359) and it is truly excellent. Not a blemish anywhere on the bezel and no dead pixels that I can see (the box has a Zero Dead Pixel sticker on it too). I haven't done any overclocking yet but I hopefully will be able to get 96Hz easily. The one thing that I need to get used to is the angle of the monitor when it's in the stand...it looks like it's more angled than my Dell 2407 but I guess it's just because the screen looks so huge in comparison. So far I am loving it though. Best purchase I have made in awhile!













UPDATE - I got it to display at 96Hz....it was easy peasy!


----------



## Loktar Ogar

@HotWasabiPeas, Congratz on your new and good looking monitor!


----------



## sixtyfivedays

@HotWasabiPeas

Nice! I put in my own offer and have been waiting for him to get back to me but seeing this I might pay for asking price or raise my offer a little more. It is just hard to pull the trigger on this one when the xstar is going for 280.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> Well the beast arrived today. I got the Ultimate Pixel Perfect version from ExcellentCastle (paid asking price of $359) and it is truly excellent. Not a blemish anywhere on the bezel and no dead pixels that I can see (the box has a Zero Dead Pixel sticker on it too). I haven't done any overclocking yet but I hopefully will be able to get 96Hz easily. The one thing that I need to get used to is the angle of the monitor when it's in the stand...it looks like it's more angled than my Dell 2407 but I guess it's just because the screen looks so huge in comparison. So far I am loving it though. Best purchase I have made in awhile!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UPDATE - I got it to display at 96Hz....it was easy peasy!


Hey HotWasabiPeas that looks really great mate...glad you got nice one...i am sure you will hit 120hz also...remember the closer you get your pixel clock to 450mhz which is the pixel clock limit the stronger signal you will have and the more of a chance you have to hit a nice stable and artefact free 120hz....use these timings and totals for your 120hz profile in CRU or if you use the monitor driver NVCP if you use Nvidia and i am sure you will hit 120hz easily











Oh and here is a 96hz and 120hz icc profile for you to correct your Gamma ( darker screen )at your 96hz and your 120hz profile...i made then at 200 cd/m brightness which from a black screen will be for your 96hz 17 clicks up on the BRI+ button and 18 clicks up at 120hz....and then you should be all sorted mate and be able to relax and enjoy your nice new shiny monitor









120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


----------



## livejamie

I have a Radeon 7850, and it works pretty well and I'd rather not replace it.

http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/7000/7850/pages/radeon-7850.aspx

The card has 1 HDMI Port, 2 Mini Displayports and 1 DVI Port.

I'd like to run dual monitors and I've read that you need Dual DVI. Does that mean the DVI -> HDMI adapter I currently have will not work?

If so, what will I need to get to make the second monitor work with my card, or do I have to replace it?

Thanks so much! I tried Googling but couldn't find a clear answer.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *livejamie*
> 
> I have a Radeon 7850, and it works pretty well and I'd rather not replace it.
> 
> http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/7000/7850/pages/radeon-7850.aspx
> 
> The card has 1 HDMI Port, 2 Mini Displayports and 1 DVI Port.
> 
> I'd like to run dual monitors and I've read that you need Dual DVI. Does that mean the DVI -> HDMI adapter I currently have will not work?
> 
> If so, what will I need to get to make the second monitor work with my card, or do I have to replace it?
> 
> Thanks so much! I tried Googling but couldn't find a clear answer.


You could buy an active mini dp to dual link dvi adapter.
Im using it too but you will have problems with overclocking the Monitor as it limits your stable Pixel clock significant.
Im able to get 84Hz stable with stock cable and an adapter.
Just make sure that it is active and not passive.
They are pretty expensive... I bought one for ~70€...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> @HotWasabiPeas
> 
> Nice! I put in my own offer and have been waiting for him to get back to me but seeing this I might pay for asking price or raise my offer a little more. It is just hard to pull the trigger on this one when the xstar is going for 280.


Wait for a counter offer, then counter back.


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Wait for a counter offer, then counter back.


The time is almost up (been 2 days almost) and he has not got back to me at all. I offered $330 (asking is $360) so I will keep waiting.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> The time is almost up (been 2 days almost) and he has not got back to me at all. I offered $330 (asking is $360) so I will keep waiting.


Try sending a message about it. I had an offer to someone and I thought it would expire since it was a weekend, he countered after that. If it expires try again or another seller.


----------



## livejamie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> You could buy an active mini dp to dual link dvi adapter.
> Im using it too but you will have problems with overclocking the Monitor as it limits your stable Pixel clock significant.
> Im able to get 84Hz stable with stock cable and an adapter.
> Just make sure that it is active and not passive.
> They are pretty expensive... I bought one for ~70€...


Hrm at that price I would almost just get a new card.

I'm not familiar with overclocking the monitor and the refresh rates, does it make a big difference- will I want to?

I'm going to use one monitor for gaming and the other for web browsing and stuff.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *livejamie*
> 
> Hrm at that price I would almost just get a new card.
> 
> I'm not familiar with overclocking the monitor and the refresh rates, does it make a big difference- will I want to?
> 
> I'm going to use one monitor for gaming and the other for web browsing and stuff.


It just feels a lot smoother, even when browsing or moving windows around.
just for office i would say 72, 84 or 96 is enough. Its even enough for me to play a game with 96Hz.
The huge difference is when moving from 60Hz to 96Hz, from 96Hz to 120Hz its not that big, but still there.
For me 84Hz in enough for office, but i had not the chance to buy an additional GPU, but thats also an option.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *livejamie*
> 
> Hrm at that price I would almost just get a new card.
> 
> I'm not familiar with overclocking the monitor and the refresh rates, does it make a big difference- will I want to?
> 
> I'm going to use one monitor for gaming and the other for web browsing and stuff.


I've gotten used to 96Hz. I started BF4 up at 60Hz by accident and it almost broke my eyes.







I quickly switched back to 96Hz.

I would say it's one of those things that comes down to each individual person though. Some people see zero difference between 60Hz and 120Hz. Some people see a huge difference between 60Hz and 96Hz.


----------



## chestnuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> ...The one thing that I need to get used to is the angle of the monitor when it's in the stand...it looks like it's more angled than my Dell 2407 but I guess it's just because the screen looks so huge in comparison.!


What do you mean exactly? You know you can adjust the angle of the screen right?


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chestnuts*
> 
> What do you mean exactly? You know you can adjust the angle of the screen right?


Is the tilt adjustable?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> Is the tilt adjustable?


Tilt means you can tilt it, as in move it to different angles.


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Tilt means you can tilt it, as in move it to different angles.


hehe...Yes I know what tilt means. I may have Andy Pipkin as my avatar but that doesn't mean I'm as daft as he is!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> hehe...Yes I know what tilt means. I may have Andy Pipkin as my avatar but that doesn't mean I'm as daft as he is!


Well quit screwing around, get out there and TILT.


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey HotWasabiPeas that looks really great mate...glad you got nice one...i am sure you will hit 120hz also...remember the closer you get your pixel clock to 450mhz which is the pixel clock limit the stronger signal you will have and the more of a chance you have to hit a nice stable and artefact free 120hz....use these timings and totals for your 120hz profile in CRU or if you use the monitor driver NVCP if you use Nvidia and i am sure you will hit 120hz easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and here is a 96hz and 120hz icc profile for you to correct your Gamma ( darker screen )at your 96hz and your 120hz profile...i made then at 200 cd/m brightness which from a black screen will be for your 96hz 17 clicks up on the BRI+ button and 18 clicks up at 120hz....and then you should be all sorted mate and be able to relax and enjoy your nice new shiny monitor


Thanks Lawson! I tried to get to 120 using NVCP but I don't have Back porch or blanking settings. I am using NVCP version 7.5.790.0. Anyway I just tried to get 120 using the settings that I could change and I immediately got artifacts all over the screen. So far all I've done to get 96Hz was to just manually change the refresh rate in custom settings and it worked a treat. I also didn't notice the screen getting darker at all so I think my gamma may be fine. I've switched back and forth from the default 60Hz settings to my 96Hz settings and I honestly can't see a difference in gamma or darkness levels. Are there some color test screens I need to download to further test the gamma setting?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> Thanks Lawson! I tried to get to 120 using NVCP but I don't have Back porch or blanking settings. I am using NVCP version 7.5.790.0. Anyway I just tried to get 120 using the settings that I could change and I immediately got artifacts all over the screen. So far all I've done to get 96Hz was to just manually change the refresh rate in custom settings and it worked a treat. I also didn't notice the screen getting darker at all so I think my gamma may be fine. I've switched back and forth from the default 60Hz settings to my 96Hz settings and I honestly can't see a difference in gamma or darkness levels. Are there some color test screens I need to download to further test the gamma setting?


Are you going into create a custom resolution in NVCP?...then once in there set timings to manual ( drop down box ) and set the timings the exactly the same as in my picture below



Edit also have you used device manager to add the Qnix monitor driver?....file is below

qnix.zip 0k .zip file


If you use windows 8 you will need to turn off for one windows session only Driver signature enforcement

http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


----------



## note

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Are you going into create a custom resolution in NVCP?...then once in there set timings to manual ( drop down box ) and set the timings the exactly the same as in my picture below


Could you make the image a bit bigger or just post the timings as text? The image is so small I can't see the numbers. Thanks!


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *note*
> 
> Could you make the image a bit bigger or just post the timings as text? The image is so small I can't see the numbers. Thanks!


Click at the image and then in the right down corner theres "original size".
You will see the image in 2560x1440.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Are you going into create a custom resolution in NVCP?...then once in there set timings to manual ( drop down box ) and set the timings the exactly the same as in my picture below
> 
> 
> 
> Edit also have you used device manager to add the Qnix monitor driver?....file is below
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> If you use windows 8 you will need to turn off for one windows session only Driver signature enforcement
> 
> http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


You will notice the gamma more at 120hz...


----------



## Cyalume

I notice ghosting/blurring of my mouse cursor on dark colors, like the blue background of the site. I have a QNIX 2710. Is it possible that my monitor is defective? Everyone else reports no blurring.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> @HotWasabiPeas
> 
> Nice! I put in my own offer and have been waiting for him to get back to me but seeing this I might pay for asking price or raise my offer a little more. It is just hard to pull the trigger on this one when the xstar is going for 280.


I don't know what you offered but I paid $330 for that monitor from Excellentcastle two weeks ago.

Edit. Sorry I responded to your first post before I read far enough to see your second. He did respond to my offer after about 24 hours. I had it in my hands two days after that.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I don't know what you offered but I paid $330 for that monitor from Excellentcastle two weeks ago.


$330 seems about in line to an offer I made on another monitor from him. I didn't counter back his $340, but I just had a gut feeling $330 would of been accepted.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> $330 seems about in line to an offer I made on another monitor from him. I didn't counter back his $340, but I just had a gut feeling $330 would of been accepted.


Me too. I went with my gut. The reason I chose that price is that was about the going rate for the perfect pixel version of other sellers. The advantage was he stated zero dead pixels. Other seller's perfect pixel models say 0-1 bad pixel was acceptable.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Me too. I went with my gut. The reason I chose that price is that was about the going rate for the perfect pixel version of other sellers. The advantage was he stated zero dead pixels. Other seller's perfect pixel models say 0-1 bad pixel was acceptable.


One seller, I believe its the accessories dude, was offering zero on a monitor for $390 I think. Its a guaranteed 0, not sure which monitor though I have looked at so many.


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Me too. I went with my gut. The reason I chose that price is that was about the going rate for the perfect pixel version of other sellers. The advantage was he stated zero dead pixels. Other seller's perfect pixel models say 0-1 bad pixel was acceptable.


He told me the lowest he can go is $340 due to a price increase. Not going to fight it.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> He told me the lowest he can go is $340 due to a price increase. Not going to fight it.


Price increase as in what, they are selling so many lets make more money? I know for a fact that 2 that I have been looking at have both come down under $300.


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Price increase as in what, they are selling so many lets make more money?


¯\_(ツ)_/¯

It is only 10 dollars so not worth the hassle for me to argue. It is my first time buying one of these monitors so I am hoping everything goes smoothly.


----------



## DzillaXx

Just got mine from Dream Seller, Vary Fast Shipping.

Screen is perfect, no flaws. Just got the $299 X-Star Model. Have yet to try overclocking though.

1440p is Great


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
> 
> It is only 10 dollars so not worth the hassle for me to argue. It is my first time buying one of these monitors so I am hoping everything goes smoothly.


$10 in Korea is probably a fortune.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> He told me the lowest he can go is $340 due to a price increase. Not going to fight it.


I agree not worth arguing over ten bucks.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Color Sustainer


Hi yasamoka i am messing with your program Color Sustainer i really like the way it switches profiles at different display modes!....thank you for building such a handy piece of software and i am sure many people will find it very useful indeed...just a question though does it work like color profile keeper in that it tries to force your profile into a game?...some games one of my favourites in particular "Metro last light" appears to need to reset the gamma once you start the game...i believe this is because on installation of the game you are asked to set gamma within the game...as in "set your gamma until the you can barley see the last black block"...i sure you have seen games like this in the past!

The reason i believe it wants you to set your gamma within the game is due to the fact it is set in dark tunnels in future under ground Russia....its graphics are beautiful and very atmospheric...

Edit i have just run "Metro last light" with Color Sustainer running...i believe i have set it up correctly as in i detected my monitor and ticked associate then choose my 120hz ICC profile and then my 96hz Profile and for my 60hz i have not set a profile for that so i guess it will just allow it reset the cards gamma table to standard?.....Anyhow back to running "Metro last light" withColor Sustainer running and associated with my correct ICC profiles..... i noted that unlike Color profile keeper it did not artefact and lock up....this i believe is because it has allowed the game to reset my cards gamma table for the game?...
And if this is the case it is not forcing my applications or games to use my ICC profiles?...so is it simply for changing ICC profiles when i change display mode?...IE use my 120hz profile...thanks for your help









Edit: i am also finding that when i set 96hz profile it appears red in the browse box and it does not change to it when select my 96hz display mode?....my 120hz profile is working perfectly.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> Just got mine from Dream Seller, Vary Fast Shipping.
> 
> Screen is perfect, no flaws. Just got the $299 X-Star Model. Have yet to try overclocking though.
> 
> 1440p is Great


1886 sold at $279, that's moving some inventory.


----------



## Watagump

The Qnix and X-star, as soon as you search for perfect and glossy, boom, $600 area at least.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteopath*
> 
> I agree not worth arguing over ten bucks.


Hey Osteoman i have asked accessorieswhole if he will sell me a PCB Board for the Qnix....he replied that he can and asked me if mine was faulty....so as not to give my sneaky little game away i told that in fact it was fine...however i had heard that people are overclocking there monitors and i wanted one purely for overclocking....and one for if i blow up my overclocked PCB board lmao...anyhow i have asked him how much to sell me one as he did not give me a price he simply asked if mine was faulty....lets see how much he asks for it and if i can get it for the right price i am going to buy the Monex and attempt to fit the PCB Board and overclock it....i believe it will work


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The Qnix and X-star, as soon as you search for perfect and glossy, boom, $600 area at least.


If my plan works out will will have one for a lot less


----------



## rjeftw

So, the X-Star that dream-seller is selling needs an adapter for the ole USA.... Anyone have a recommendation for one?


----------



## Cyalume

Catalyst control center isn't recognizing any of CRU's custom resolutions.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Catalyst control center isn't recognizing any of CRU's custom resolutions.


For ATI try patching with the program below. Make sure you read about possible issues. When I messed with mine videos online wouldn't play in youtube etc. I had to reinstall my drivers to remove the patch. Make sure you reboot after installing the patch.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## DzillaXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjeftw*
> 
> So, the X-Star that dream-seller is selling needs an adapter for the ole USA.... Anyone have a recommendation for one?


? It uses the standard cable that PC's do.

Just use a extra one, probably have some laying around.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> ? It uses the standard cable that PC's do.
> 
> Just use a extra one, probably have some laying around.


Yep you got it right the standard cable i had like 5 new ones laying around


----------



## rjeftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> ? It uses the standard cable that PC's do.
> 
> Just use a extra one, probably have some laying around.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep you got it right the standard cable i had like 5 new ones laying around


Oh, well that's cake. I have too many of those damn things!


----------



## Cyalume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> For ATI try patching with the program below. Make sure you read about possible issues. When I messed with mine videos online wouldn't play in youtube etc. I had to reinstall my drivers to remove the patch. Make sure you reboot after installing the patch.
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


I did that already; CRU will add the "Established Resolutions" (the ones you can add by clicking checkboxes) just fine, but it won't add any of the "Detailed Resolutions" or "Standard Resolutions".


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> I did that already; CRU will add the "Established Resolutions" (the ones you can add by clicking checkboxes) just fine, but it won't add any of the "Detailed Resolutions" or "Standard Resolutions".


Then I am not sure. I only messed with mine for a bit. After I got frame skipping trying to do my Asus, I gave up.


----------



## Cyalume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Then I am not sure. I only messed with mine for a bit. After I got frame skipping trying to do my Asus, I gave up.


Update: adds resolutions, but only those that don't pass 60hz for 2560x1440. Is there a way to tell if the patch is failing?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Update: adds resolutions, but only those that don't pass 60hz for 2560x1440. Is there a way to tell if the patch is failing?


If I remember correctly all I saw while doing it was it was successful. Then I ran this test and saw the frame skipping. It tells your FR below.

http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping


----------



## Cyalume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> If I remember correctly all I saw while doing it was it was successful. Then I ran this test and saw the frame skipping. It tells your FR below.
> 
> http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping


Fixed it. Antivirus was blocking the patcher. Now I've overclocked, but my top-right corner is dark. Mouse cursor has motion blur on darker colors. Some other people are saying that isn't normal, can anyone confirm?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Fixed it. Antivirus was blocking the patcher. Now I've overclocked, but my top-right corner is dark. Mouse cursor has motion blur on darker colors. Some other people are saying that isn't normal, can anyone confirm?


Pretty sure I have read that overclocking can cause darkness on the screen. I don't know about the mouse thing, haven't read every post and I don't have a Korean monitor.


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Edit also have you used device manager to add the Qnix monitor driver?....file is below
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> If you use windows 8 you will need to turn off for one windows session only Driver signature enforcement
> 
> http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


I went ahead and and followed that tutorial in order to get the Qnix monitor driver installed. Everything went to plan and it said it was successful but I still only see the " Generic PnP Monitor" in Device Manager. In NVCP it also just shows Dual-DVI for the monitor and not Qnix. Is that how it should be?


----------



## cumanzor

Hi everyone,

Really looking for ward to get a QNIX monitor. Problem is, I have 2013 Macbook Pro with HDMI and a few TB ports, and I've read these monitors don't work with notebooks. Is there anyway around this problem?

I'm looking to buy either from here:

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/

Or from any place you guys recommend.

Thanks!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> I went ahead and and followed that tutorial in order to get the Qnix monitor driver installed. Everything went to plan and it said it was successful but I still only see the " Generic PnP Monitor" in Device Manager. In NVCP it also just shows Dual-DVI for the monitor and not Qnix. Is that how it should be?


No under monitors in device manager it should read QX2710 once you have browsed and found the driver to update from device manager and chosen the qnix.inf file...it should look like the picture below...try reinstalling it you must of done something wrong?


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey Osteoman i have asked accessorieswhole if he will sell me a PCB Board for the Qnix....he replied that he can and asked me if mine was faulty....so as not to give my sneaky little game away i told that in fact it was fine...however i had heard that people are overclocking there monitors and i wanted one purely for overclocking....and one for if i blow up my overclocked PCB board lmao...anyhow i have asked him how much to sell me one as he did not give me a price he simply asked if mine was faulty....lets see how much he asks for it and if i can get it for the right price i am going to buy the Monex and attempt to fit the PCB Board and overclock it....i believe it will work


I will look forward to seeing the results of this.


----------



## DzillaXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cumanzor*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Really looking for ward to get a QNIX monitor. Problem is, I have 2013 Macbook Pro with HDMI and a few TB ports, and I've read these monitors don't work with notebooks. Is there anyway around this problem?
> 
> I'm looking to buy either from here:
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/
> 
> Or from any place you guys recommend.
> 
> Thanks!


Get the Display Port Version, comes with HDMI, DP, and DL-DVI. You lose out on the ability to overclock though.


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No under monitors in device manager it should read QX2710 once you have browsed and found the driver to update from device manager and chosen the qnix.inf file...it should look like the picture below...try reinstalling it you must of done something wrong?


I think I got it done this time. For some reason I had to put the inf file on a USB drive otherwise it wouldn't find the driver. I would browse to the folder where it was located but it wouldn't find any driver...weird. Anyway now I have it showing QX2710 under Device Manager but if I look in properties, for both Driver Date and Driver Version it shows "not available". Also it still shows "Dual-DVI" in NVCP under Display. Should it show QX2710 instead or does that not matter?


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

On a side note: my QX2710 looks great at night too. I honestly cannot find any BLB anywhere...it looks pretty much perfect to me!


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> i think i'm gonna get this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e
> 
> from seller dream-seller however it seems they don't include a US adapter. Any recommendations for a good cable to use?


As long as you have one of these laying around the house, you don't need to buy an adapter.


----------



## hammelgammler

Can anyone set their Total pixels in CRU below 2641 until it gets red?
Spartan F8 was able to set it to 2595. Would be interesting to know.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey I was waiting for my dvi - admi adapter to arrive so I could run my old monitor additionally.It arrived and I plugged it in and now the old monitor is full of red dots and red lines while my main monitor is running completly fine. The old monitor is running at 1080p and 50 hz. Do you guys have an idea how to fix it?
I tried lower res. the red lines and dots get stronger the higher the framerate is. My QNIX is not affected by this.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> I think I got it done this time. For some reason I had to put the inf file on a USB drive otherwise it wouldn't find the driver. I would browse to the folder where it was located but it wouldn't find any driver...weird. Anyway now I have it showing QX2710 under Device Manager but if I look in properties, for both Driver Date and Driver Version it shows "not available". Also it still shows "Dual-DVI" in NVCP under Display. Should it show QX2710 instead or does that not matter?


Hi showing Dual-DVI" in NVCP is fine its the same as mine...it is because you are using a duel link DVI cable using the DVI port ...you are good go mate... pleased that you have got such a good one


----------



## B-rock

I recently purchased one of these from ipsledmonitors.com and now I am going to have to return it . I had the Qnix 27" matte screen and the monitor would occasionally stop displaying the video and I would have to power-cycle the monitor in order to get the picture again. It now displays nothing after power-cycling the monitor and computer. I have updated all the graphics drivers and tried different video cables and I still only get a solid blue light and no picture.

Had it less than two-weeks  Gonna go through the RMA process


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> I think I got it done this time. For some reason I had to put the inf file on a USB drive otherwise it wouldn't find the driver. I would browse to the folder where it was located but it wouldn't find any driver...weird. Anyway now I have it showing QX2710 under Device Manager but if I look in properties, for both Driver Date and Driver Version it shows "not available". Also it still shows "Dual-DVI" in NVCP under Display. Should it show QX2710 instead or does that not matter?


Had the same problem, what u have to do is click have disk and it works perfectly


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Had the same problem, what u have to do is click have disk and it works perfectly


Me too, same issue. Clicking the have disc finds it fine.


----------



## Dyekid217

How is the input lag on this monitor at 96/120hz btw?

I'm gonna pick one up in a couple weeks to replace my crossover 27q led-p. There is a good amount of ghosting on the crossover and the input lag is closer to 8ms so it's not very good.

I play alot of league of legends and i would love to have really low input but 120hz as well.. Debating between the asus vg248qe vs the qnix.

I play bf4 as well and have a new 7970 on the way so pushing 120fps won't be a problem


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> How is the input lag on this monitor at 96/120hz btw?
> 
> I'm gonna pick one up in a couple weeks to replace my crossover 27q led-p. There is a good amount of ghosting on the crossover and the input lag is closer to 8ms so it's not very good.
> 
> I play alot of league of legends and i would love to have really low input but 120hz as well.. Debating between the asus vg248qe vs the qnix.
> 
> I play bf4 as well and have a new 7970 on the way so pushing 120fps won't be a problem


Haven't noticed much input lag and i doubt u will push 120 fps in BF4 with a 7970


----------



## Dyekid217

That's fine anything in 120hz will be better for my eyes than 60hz. I have an astigmatism and pretty bad eyesight so my eyes get pretty tired during long sessions


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I just bought 4 of this cable.
> 5€ per cable, thats very cheap. Its seems very thick and maybe i will get better results in overclocking with one of these cables.
> I know thats i has nothing to say, but theres claimed that the cable cost 60€... Never mind i tested some cable yesterday everything with standard timings in CRU.
> Stock cable: 116Hz
> CSL 1,5m cable: 118Hz
> CSL 1,0m cable: 117Hz
> CSL 2,0m cable: 117Hz unstable so not more tested...
> Every CSL cable was much thinner then the stock. At least AWG 30.
> Weird that the 1m cable performed worse then the 1,5m cable...


I bought this cable and have been running 120hz 24/7 since i got my monitor....i am not to sure what real benefits you get if any at all using such a high quality cable as we are using a digital signal... If a one or a zero goes in a one or a zero will come out simple as....but it bloody well looks nice and has great build quality.



http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/1m-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2792


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I bought this cable and have been running 120hz 24/7 since i got my monitor....i am not to sure what real benefits you get if any at all using such a high quality cable as we are using a digital signal... If a one or a zero goes in a one or a zero will come out simple as....but it bloody well looks nice and has great build quality.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.lindy-international.com/1m-Premium-Gold-DVI-D-Dual-Link-Cable.htm?websale8=ld0101.ld020102&pi=37038


All you gain is being lighter in the wallet.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> All you gain is being lighter in the wallet.


I believe you might be right...but you gotta admit it looks nice


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I believe you might be right...but you gotta admit it looks nice


Yes its gorgeous just like a cable I am looking at for my headphones. What a coincidence, they are both blue. I already have a silver plated copper cable, but unlike video, audio cables can change the sound, I use to be skeptic till I tried one. I dont need the one in the picture, but man, its sexy.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Yes its gorgeous just like a cable I am looking at for my headphones. What a coincidence, they are both blue. I already have a silver plated copper cable, but unlike video, audio cables can change the sound, I use to be skeptic till I tried one. I dont need the one in the picture, but man, its sexy.


Yes it looks gorgeous and you may well be right about the sound quality....but i would buy one in any case purely for the looks and build quality


----------



## hammelgammler

Just calibrated my monitor with the new Spyder4Express.
The results are fantanstic:



And that was only with a default LUT profile and @96Hz.









I will doing a massive LUT in a few hours.


----------



## Cyalume

So you guys are saying you're seeing no smearing/ghosting/blurring of your mouse cursor at all when you move it around at a medium/slow pace on the blue background of this site?

I'm using the Dual-Link DVI cable that came with the monitor. There's really bad smearing of the mouse cursor on a completely black background, but next to none on a white background.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I bought this cable and have been running 120hz 24/7 since i got my monitor....i am not to sure what real benefits you get if any at all using such a high quality cable as we are using a digital signal... If a one or a zero goes in a one or a zero will come out simple as....but it bloody well looks nice and has great build quality.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/1m-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2792


Well Sparta tested a huge amount of dvi cables and he said that the qualitiy and the length of the cable is important to achieve better overclocking results and a higher pixel clock.
With the monoprice 24awg cable he was able to set the total pixels lower then 2600. The most of us are only able to set it 2652 and for me 2651 is not stable. That means you can get a much higher pixel clock. He oced it to 152Hz or so. You really dont need it, but if you can it's really cool.
Ah and he got 449MHz pixel clock @ 120Hz so the unformaty of the panel will be better as he runs at a lower pixel clock.
How long is your lindy cable? One guy has got 135MHz instead of 120 only when changing from stock to a 3m lindy gold dvi cable.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I bought this cable and have been running 120hz 24/7 since i got my monitor....i am not to sure what real benefits you get if any at all using such a high quality cable as we are using a digital signal... If a one or a zero goes in a one or a zero will come out simple as....but it bloody well looks nice and has great build quality.


Digital doesn't mean that if you put in a one, you will get a one out. Digital just means that if you put in a bit, it has to come out as one or zero. There's no in between. You could put in a 1, and get a 0 out of it. All cables have a limit where they begin spontaneously changing 1 -> 0 and 0 ->1, once the electrical signals become so "dense" they start mixing. Better quality cables are able to keep signals distinct even as they get "denser" together. Most cables have plenty of headroom. It's just us, when we push cables to their limit with >450mhz pixel clocks, where we start to run into issues with the cables not having enough bandwidth to properly transmit our digital signal - we get image corruption and screen artifacts. That's where better quality cables will help.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Just calibrated my monitor with the new Spyder4Express.
> The results are fantanstic:
> 
> 
> 
> And that was only with a default LUT profile and @96Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will doing a massive LUT in a few hours.


WOW hammelgammler great results mate!...i would love to try your 96hz profile as i have not gotten around to doing my 96hz profile in dispcalGUI as yet....i believe your last spyder 4 express must had a defect?....there is one thing is for curtain...using dispcalGUI with the correct settings with a spyder 4 produces much better results than any spyder/ datacolor software...please post yout 96hz profile









Edit: BTW how long did it take you to calibrate using the default LUT profile?


----------



## bestaan

Just got mine in 20 minutes ago, 0 BLB, 0 Dead Pixels, and 120hz OC, Thanks dreamseller


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Digital doesn't mean that if you put in a one, you will get a one out. Digital just means that if you put in a bit, it has to come out as one or zero. There's no in between. You could put in a 1, and get a 0 out of it. All cables have a limit where they begin spontaneously changing 1 -> 0 and 0 ->1, once the electrical signals become so "dense" they start mixing. Better quality cables are able to keep signals distinct even as they get "denser" together. Most cables have plenty of headroom. It's just us, when we push cables to their limit with >450mhz pixel clocks, where we start to run into issues with the cables not having enough bandwidth to properly transmit our digital signal - we get image corruption and screen artifacts. That's where better quality cables will help.


Well thanks you have made me feel even better about my gorgeous looking 24 caret gold DVI-D cable


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Well Sparta tested a huge amount of dvi cables and he said that the qualitiy and the length of the cable is important to achieve better overclocking results and a higher pixel clock.
> With the monoprice 24awg cable he was able to set the total pixels lower then 2600. The most of us are only able to set it 2652 and for me 2651 is not stable. That means you can get a much higher pixel clock. He oced it to 152Hz or so. You really dont need it, but if you can it's really cool.
> Ah and he got 449MHz pixel clock @ 120Hz so the unformaty of the panel will be better as he runs at a lower pixel clock.
> How long is your lindy cable? One guy has got 135MHz instead of 120 only when changing from stock to a 3m lindy gold dvi cable.


Mine is only the 1m cable to keep it as short as possible for a better signal...i bought from the link below

http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/1m-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2792


----------



## HOTDOGS

Came in today, with only one stuck pixel as far as I can tell. I'll have pictures up when I get home later!


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> WOW hammelgammler great results mate!...i would love to try your 96hz profile as i have not gotten around to doing my 96hz profile in dispcalGUI as yet....i believe your last spyder 4 express must had a defect?....there is one thing is for curtain...using dispcalGUI with the correct settings with a spyder 4 produces much better results than any spyder/ datacolor software...please post yout 96hz profile


Yeah i think it had a defect cause now everything seems perfect.
I will try out basICColor display 5 later. It has a 14 day trial licence where you get the full programm and not a cutted version.
I will share my profiles in some hours as im not at home right now.


----------



## Citna

I just got a X-Star DP2710 in from Dreamseller, waiting on my GPU to get here so I can test it out but it looks nice so far!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Yeah i think it had a defect cause now everything seems perfect.
> I will try out basICColor display 5 later. It has a 14 day trial licence where you get the full programm and not a cutted version.
> I will share my profiles in some hours as im not at home right now.


How long did it take to calibrate using the default LUT profile?


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> How long did it take to calibrate using the default LUT profile?


I was not @home when it was calibrating...
Maybe 1.5h? A default one only has 297 patches so i think it will take not that long.
When you have time please download basICColor display 5 and load your profiles youve done with dispcal... You can set everything you want such as 6500k, 2.2 Gamma (...) and verify your profile. The profile made with basiccolor is, when validating both with basiccolor, much better...
I will upload a comparison... Everything set was 2.2 Gamma, 6500K and the lowest black.
Anyone who could tell me which profiles is better "on paper"?

profile made with dispcal:






profile made with basiccolor display 5: ( "13.02.2014 - 18_09 -Gamma 2.2 - 6500K - 160 lumen #1")






And here are the profiles i made with dispcal and basiccolor display 5:

Colorprofiles.zip 1844k .zip file


There are folders where the specific chart for the profile is.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes it looks gorgeous and you may well be right about the sound quality....but i would buy one in any case purely for the looks and build quality


I do love the looks so much I was thinking about getting it. But it would be a dumb buy, I run my cable under my shirt most of the time. Also after talking to the guy who builds my cables, there might be issues with Micro phonics.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I was not @home when it was calibrating...
> Maybe 1.5h? A default one only has 297 patches so i think it will take not that long.
> When you have time please download basICColor display 5 and load your profiles youve done with dispcal... You can set everything you want such as 6500k, 2.2 Gamma (...) and verify your profile. The profile made with basiccolor is, when validating both with basiccolor, much better...
> I will upload a comparison... Everything set was 2.2 Gamma, 6500K and the lowest black.
> Anyone who could tell me which profiles is better "on paper"?
> 
> profile made with dispcal:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> profile made with basiccolor display 5: ( "13.02.2014 - 18_09 -Gamma 2.2 - 6500K - 160 lumen #1")
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here are the profiles i made with dispcal and basiccolor display 5:
> 
> Colorprofiles.zip 1844k .zip file
> 
> 
> There are folders where the specific chart for the profile is.


Looks great and thanks for profile....i have sent you PM please check


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Well Sparta tested a huge amount of dvi cables and *he said* that the *qualitiy* and the *length* of the cable is important to achieve better overclocking results and a higher pixel clock.


Did he really? Did you notice which cable he found to be the best for his overclocking? That's right, a small 3ft cable chucked away somewhere. Out of 30 other cables.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Did he really? Did you notice which cable he found to be the best for his overclocking? That's right, a small 3ft cable chucked away somewhere. Out of 30 other cables.


Hi yasamoka i am messing with your program Color Sustainer i really like the way it switches profiles at different display modes!....thank you for building such a handy piece of software and i am sure many people will find it very useful indeed...just a question though does it work like color profile keeper in that it tries to force your profile into a game?...some games one of my favourites in particular "Metro last light" appears to need to reset the gamma once you start the game...i believe this is because on installation of the game you are asked to set gamma within the game...as in "set your gamma until the you can barley see the last black block"...i sure you have seen games like this in the past!

The reason i believe it wants you to set your gamma within the game is due to the fact it is set in dark tunnels in future under ground Russia....its graphics are beautiful and very atmospheric...

Edit i have just run "Metro last light" with Color Sustainer running...i believe i have set it up correctly as in i detected my monitor and ticked associate then choose my 120hz ICC profile and then my 96hz Profile and for my 60hz i have not set a profile for that so i guess it will just allow it reset the cards gamma table to standard?.....Anyhow back to running "Metro last light" withColor Sustainer running and associated with my correct ICC profiles..... i noted that unlike Color profile keeper it did not artefact and lock up....this i believe is because it has allowed the game to reset my cards gamma table for the game?...
And if this is the case it is not forcing my applications or games to use my ICC profiles?...so is it simply for changing ICC profiles when i change display mode?...IE use my 120hz profile...thanks for your help smile.gif

Edit: i am also finding that when i set 96hz profile it appears red in the browse box and it does not change to it when select my 96hz display mode?....my 120hz profile is working perfectly.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Getting my qnix tomorrow guys


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Getting my qnix tomorrow guys


I did you get pixel perfect this time?....and if so who did you buy from?


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Did he really? Did you notice which cable he found to be the best for his overclocking? That's right, a small 3ft cable chucked away somewhere. Out of 30 other cables.


Exaclty, a small 3ft 24awg cable. Here's his post - click.

"The length of time the data is carried and the quality of the cable are the two main factors where size is a compensation for the length of time or distance the data is carried. With this being said it is more important to get a very good quality short cable." - Spartan F8


----------



## Nomisus

Been lurking here for awhile. First post







My QNIX just arrived and my god does it look amazing. Went from a 19" 1440x900 monitor to this 2560x1440 goodness. One sentence to describe it: ITS SO F**KING BIG. Been using the 19" monitor for 5 years and it hurts to stare at such a big screen. Hopefully I can adjust to it. The colour and pixels are amazinggg.

I know some people have been having problems with the SE version from accessorieswhole but I just bought one and it came with 0 dead pixels and very minor backlight bleed a little to the left of the QNIX logo. Maybe I'll get a crack at fixing it when I have time. I ordered it on Monday, it got shipped on Tuesday and arrived today on Thursday. So fast!









Overall very satisfied with this monitor. Still need to learn how to overclock this badboy. Stand is very wobbly though, might get another stand for this. If other people are hesitant about buying this, DO IT!


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys, just ordered another Qnix and I've noticed a few things that make me feel like something has changed with them:

1) This is a stupid small thing, but their logo has changed between the two versions, the older one I have has a circular q logo, whereas the new one has a panel like q logo that is much larger

2) When overclocked, the new one I purchased does not exhibit the dimming associated with PLS panel overclocking, which is incredibly bizarre to me

3) This one is also probably not a big deal, but when I put the same icc profile for both monitors, the new one is consistently brighter and less saturated than the old one. I think the saturation can be partially explained because my older one is a tempered glass model, whereas the new one is a matte display (I wanted pixel perfect after having a terrible time with green-sum)

4) The brightness controls on the monitor itself don't seem to work, though this may just be a defect or something

Has anyone else ordered a qnix recently and noticed any of these issues?


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Placed my order for the Ultimate Perfect Pixel QNIX from excellentcastle and it should be here sometime next week. Pretty excited.


----------



## shadoom

Hey, I bought a Qnix QX2710 from accessorieswhole @ ebay.
Ordered on 10th February, Arrived 12th February.

I'm running the display on a HD5870 with these settings:


http://imgur.com/RNJPOIJ


If I go any higher, either green artifact lines show up or pink/purple pulsating pixels in greyscale pictures(same problems on another AMD card):


http://imgur.com/eJ8uk19


The backlight bleed looks like this:


http://imgur.com/Jo318IC


With different shutter settings:


http://imgur.com/5M6lxYk



time-stamp for verification:


http://imgur.com/gTYqJtz



No dead pixels (bought pixel perfect)

I'm kinda sad that I couldn't reach 120Hz but I guess I have to live with 110Hz from now on, unless some wizard here knows any tips(besides different cable, which I already ordered).
Also the back-light bleed is a little annoying in dark games. I tried the tape-mod but it didn't change anything, the display seems to be bent, tips to fix this are appreciated









(hi hammel







)


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadoom*
> 
> Hey, I bought a Qnix QX2710 from accessorieswhole @ ebay.
> Ordered on 10th February, Arrived 12th February.
> 
> I'm running the display on a HD5870 with these settings:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/RNJPOIJ
> 
> 
> If I go any higher, either green artifact lines show up or pink/purple pulsating pixels in greyscale pictures(same problems on another AMD card):
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/eJ8uk19
> 
> 
> The backlight bleed looks like this:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Jo318IC
> 
> 
> With different shutter settings:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/5M6lxYk
> 
> 
> 
> time-stamp for verification:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/gTYqJtz
> 
> 
> 
> No dead pixels (bought pixel perfect)
> 
> I'm kinda sad that I couldn't reach 120Hz but I guess I have to live with 110Hz from now on, unless some wizard here knows any tips(besides different cable, which I already ordered).
> Also the back-light bleed is a little annoying in dark games. I tried the tape-mod but it didn't change anything, the display seems to be bent, tips to fix this are appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (hi hammel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The tape mod wont fix anything you most likely have a bent frame..did you check for this?

On this page you will see some posts of mine which is basically a guide on how to fix the bent metal frame the monitor is sat in...99.9% of all backlight bleed is due to a bent frame

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The tape mod wont fix anything you most likely have a bent frame..did you check for this?


On this page you will see some posts of mine which is basically a guide on how to fix the bent metal frame the monitor is sat in...99.9% of all backlight bleed is due to a bent frame

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Getting my qnix tomorrow guys
> 
> 
> 
> I did you get pixel perfect this time?....and if so who did you buy from?
Click to expand...

not pixel perfect but the non SE model from accessories whole

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Watagump

Every time I see people say accessories whole, it just makes me think they are being called the A word.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi yasamoka i am messing with your program Color Sustainer i really like the way it switches profiles at different display modes!....thank you for building such a handy piece of software and i am sure many people will find it very useful indeed...just a question though does it work like color profile keeper in that it tries to force your profile into a game?...some games one of my favourites in particular "Metro last light" appears to need to reset the gamma once you start the game...i believe this is because on installation of the game you are asked to set gamma within the game...as in "set your gamma until the you can barley see the last black block"...i sure you have seen games like this in the past!
> 
> The reason i believe it wants you to set your gamma within the game is due to the fact it is set in dark tunnels in future under ground Russia....its graphics are beautiful and very atmospheric...
> 
> Edit i have just run "Metro last light" with Color Sustainer running...i believe i have set it up correctly as in i detected my monitor and ticked associate then choose my 120hz ICC profile and then my 96hz Profile and for my 60hz i have not set a profile for that so i guess it will just allow it reset the cards gamma table to standard?.....Anyhow back to running "Metro last light" withColor Sustainer running and associated with my correct ICC profiles..... i noted that unlike Color profile keeper it did not artefact and lock up....this i believe is because it has allowed the game to reset my cards gamma table for the game?...
> And if this is the case it is not forcing my applications or games to use my ICC profiles?...so is it simply for changing ICC profiles when i change display mode?...IE use my 120hz profile...thanks for your help smile.gif
> 
> Edit: i am also finding that when i set 96hz profile it appears red in the browse box and it does not change to it when select my 96hz display mode?....my 120hz profile is working perfectly.


Awesome that you're using my app haha! I would appreciate any and all feedback you could give me regarding the program.

My application, when setting color profiles, works very similarly to Color Profile Keeper. It polls for changes periodically and sets the appropriate color profiles (gamma ramps) using the same function SetDeviceGammaRamp().

I'm keeping track of what games do what with color profiles (to be mentioned in a sister thread to the application's thread), here's the reference format I am using.
Quote:


> Fullscreen mode:
> -Does not override / ignore color profile
> *Does nothing (+2)
> 
> -Overrides color profile
> *Calls GDI SetDeviceGammaRamp() (+1)
> 
> -Ignores color profile
> *Calls IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() OR (0)
> *Manages colors via its own engine (0)
> 
> Windowed mode:
> -Does not override color profile
> *Does nothing
> *Cannot call IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() OR
> *Cannot manage colors via its own engine
> 
> -Overrides color profile
> *Calls GDI SetDeviceGammaRamp()
> 
> Gamma slider function:
> -Fullscreen mode
> *Handles gamma via its own engine - works in conjunction with color profile (+2)
> *Handles gamma via its own engine - ignores color profile
> *Calls GDI SetDeviceGammaRamp() - overrides color profile (+1)
> *Calls IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() - ignores color profile
> Windowed mode
> *Handles gamma via its own engine - works in conjunction with color profile
> *Cannot handle gamma via its own engine in windowed mode - has no effect
> *Calls GDI SetDeviceGammaRamp() - overrides color profile
> *Cannot call IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() - has no effect
> 
> Requires:
> -Nothing - Excellent
> -Color profile locking - Fine
> -DLL injection - Poor
> -Nothing works


Concerning Metro Last Light, here's my report for the game, it's a particularly troublesome and naughty game with respect to colors!
Quote:


> Fullscreen mode:
> -Ignores color profile
> *Calls IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() (TRUE) OR
> *Manages colors via its own engine (FALSE)
> 
> -Gamma slider function:
> *Handles gamma via its own engine (FALSE) OR
> *CALLS IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() (TRUE)
> 
> Requires:
> -Nothing works
> 
> Windowed mode:
> -Does not override /ignore color profile
> *Cannot call IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() (TRUE) OR
> *Cannot manage colors via its own engine (FALSE)
> 
> -Gamma slider function:
> Has no effect --> *Cannot call IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() (TRUE) OR
> *Cannot handle gamma via its own engine in windowed mode (FALSE)
> 
> Requires:
> -Nothing - Excellent


I've sent an email to 4A games concerning Metro: Last Light. Was a length email for sure. Alas, no reply.









Link me to your 96Hz profile, I'm still using some basic color profile parsing, nothing too special. I recently found that Datacolor software produces ICC profiles in a format that my app cannot read







Hopefully I'll figure that one out as well.

EDIT: Note that "override" is VERY different from "ignore"! Override means that it can be applied back. If you have another application that's stubborn, like dispcalGUI (for a limited time though), or Flux, applications that will also attempt to set back their own calibration periodically, you'll see flicker which is basically the monitor switching between 2 color profiles (and possibly a 3rd, linear one).

Games that ignore color profiles by using the function SetGammaControl() in fullscreen mode, which is available via DirectX, are deadly; The function allows fullscreen DX applications to completely ignore the color profile!

I've tried a supposed solution for Metro LL (and similar games - only tried MLL), which is "Write directly to palette DAC" in Powerstrip, a feature claimed at least working on older cards. It's claimed Nvidia stopped allowing direct access since the 8000 series, and I've tried it with my 7970 to no avail. The screen flickers between the two profiles crazily, with some very heavy tearing as the color profiles are applied sporadically even before VBLANK (not even waiting for the next frame), fighting each other.


----------



## lawson67

Hi yasamoka and thanks for your reply...as you can see in the picture below i have just tried to set a 96hz profile i have just made with basICColor display 5..however if you see in the browse box it also has turned red...once i initially load them the name of the ICC profile is black in the browse box and all seems to be set to go...however if i test by switching from one display profile to another 120hz always works fine...60hz seems to just set default as i have no ICC profile for that selcted in color subtaner which is intended ...however 96hz with what ever profile i chose datacolors or basICColor display 5 ICC profile will not display....and if i go back to Color Sustainer to see if its still set ....then it is red in the browse box as in the picture below....also below are my 2 favourite 96hz along with my favourite 120hz ICC profiles

However i must say i am so impressed with your app i am using it over dispcalGUI profile loader....be great if we could just sort out the 96hz profile...but once again thanks very much for such a handy little app and for a community of monitor overclockers it surly has to be a must have app











120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 73k .zip file


Edit: yes on the matter of Metro last light color profile Keeper simply would NOT allow to to rest the gamma to the point that the game artefacted and locked up!....however Color Sustainer did allow it to reset the gamma and i did not have to turn Color Sustainer off....as i did with color profile Keeper ...i thought this was a good point for Color Sustainer as it allowed me to play the game without having to turn Color Sustainer off....it is not as stubborn as color profile Keeper which simply would NOT allow it to reset the gamma to the point where it would artefact and lock up lol


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> Placed my order for the Ultimate Perfect Pixel QNIX from excellentcastle and it should be here sometime next week. Pretty excited.


Congrats!! Let us know how it goes. Mine came from them as well.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi yasamoka and thanks for your reply...as you can see in the picture below i have just tried to set a 96hz profile i have just made with basICColor display 5..however if you see in the browse box it also has turned red...once i initially load them the name of the ICC profile is black in the browse box and all seems to be set to go...however if i test by switching from one display profile to another 120hz always works fine...60hz seems to just set default as i have no ICC profile for that selcted in color subtaner which is intended ...however 96hz with what ever profile i chose datacolors or basICColor display 5 ICC profile will not display....and if i go back to Color Sustainer to see if its still set ....then it is red in the browse box as in the picture below....also below are my 2 favourite 96hz along with my favourite 120hz ICC profiles


Hmmm if it gives you a green button when you associate the profile but upon launching the application a second time it marks it in red, it means it has failed to parse the color profile. You should see the logfile mention this. I'd be grateful if you would give me the first few lines of the log, after the dashed line (indicating a new launching of the program). I'll take a look at the profile now as well.
Quote:


> However i must say i am so impressed with your app i am using it over dispcalGUI profile loader....be great if we could just sort out the 96hz profile...but once again thanks very much for such a handy little app and for a community of monitor overclockers it surly has to be a must have app


That's excellent to hear and it makes all of the hours I put into this worth it








Quote:


> Edit: yes on the matter of Metro last light color profile Keeper simply would NOT allow to to rest the gamma to the point that the game artefacted and locked up!....however Color Sustainer did allow it to reset the gamma and i did not have to turn Color Sustainer off....as i did with color profile Keeper ...i thought this was a good point for Color Sustainer as it allowed me to play the game without having to turn Color Sustainer off....it is not as stubborn as color profile Keeper which simply would NOT allow it to reset the gamma to the point where it would artefact and lock up lol


Hmmm haha no idea what CPK is doing in this case, perhaps it's using an extra function in some way. I'll look into it soon.

By the way, since you have Nvidia cards and I've read many having issues with all these color profiles, without knowing whether it has to do with color profiles, Nvidia CP color settings, certain games, certain applications, whether these cases would also show up with AMD cards (where AMD CCC sets its colors stubbornly and foisl any attempt of changing the colors it has set, considered good for manual calibration but insignificant for us profile users), etc... you know, so many variables one doesn't know where to start...I'd be glad if you would help out on the sister thread that I will be opening soon, to cover which games do what with color profiles.

EDIT: Note that any application, including mine, which uses the regular GetDeviceGammaRamp() function to get the loaded gamma ramp, would be completely oblivious to a fullscreen application using SetGammaControl() as that function does not change (override) the gamma ramp; it merely allows the fullscreen application to ignore it, and somewhere in the DXGI chain, allows the application to perform color transformations in the same manner SetDeviceGammaRamp() does (to the entire desktop), but with possibly higher bit depth and whatnot, some extras here and there. Wish Microsoft simply did not allow this as it allows game devs to completely ignore color profiles rather than use color transformations in their own engine, which is clearly possible and I have seen in several other games that still allow gamma slider adjustment WITHOUT doing ANYTHING to the color profile that is loaded (genius!).

This is why Color Sustainer is not being stubborn







You bet it would be very stubborn if the game was calling SetDeviceGammaRamp() instead









Wonder what CPK is doing in this case. Would be good to know.

EDIT2: Yep, the ICM profile is in a format I haven't accounted for. Can BasICColor do ICC profiles in different versions / encoding?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Hmmm if it gives you a green button when you associate the profile but upon launching the application a second time it marks it in red, it means it has failed to parse the color profile. You should see the logfile mention this. I'd be grateful if you would give me the first few lines of the log, after the dashed line (indicating a new launching of the program). I'll take a look at the profile now as well.
> That's excellent to hear and it makes all of the hours I put into this worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm haha no idea what CPK is doing in this case, perhaps it's using an extra function in some way. I'll look into it soon.
> 
> By the way, since you have Nvidia cards and I've read many having issues with all these color profiles, without knowing whether it has to do with color profiles, Nvidia CP color settings, certain games, certain applications, whether these cases would also show up with AMD cards (where AMD CCC sets its colors stubbornly and foisl any attempt of changing the colors it has set, considered good for manual calibration but insignificant for us profile users), etc... you know, so many variables one doesn't know where to start...I'd be glad if you would help out on the sister thread that I will be opening soon, to cover which games do what with color profiles.
> 
> EDIT: Note that any application, including mine, which uses the regular GetDeviceGammaRamp() function to get the loaded gamma ramp, would be completely oblivious to a fullscreen application using SetGammaControl() as that function does not change (override) the gamma ramp; it merely allows the fullscreen application to ignore it, and somewhere in the DXGI chain, allows the application to perform color transformations in the same manner SetDeviceGammaRamp() does (to the entire desktop), but with possibly higher bit depth and whatnot, some extras here and there. Wish Microsoft simply did not allow this as it allows game devs to completely ignore color profiles rather than use color transformations in their own engine, which is clearly possible and I have seen in several other games that still allow gamma slider adjustment WITHOUT doing ANYTHING to the color profile that is loaded (genius!).
> 
> This is why Color Sustainer is not being stubborn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You bet it would be very stubborn if the game was calling SetDeviceGammaRamp() instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder what CPK is doing in this case. Would be good to know.
> 
> EDIT2: Yep, the ICM profile is in a format I haven't accounted for. Can BasICColor do ICC profiles in different versions / encoding?


Hi yasamoka i have posted the log file from Color Sustainer below and helpfully it will give you some clues to what is going on with my 96hz display mode?....also as you can see in the picture below it does infact light up green when i have associated and ICC profile with 96hz display mode

I also would be more than happy to help you with your sister thread that you will be opening soon..just let me know when its open











Log.zip 4k .zip file


Edit: EDIT2: Yep, the ICM profile is in a format I haven't accounted for. Can BasICColor do ICC profiles in different versions / encoding?

Do you mean as in can BasICColor do say an ICC v4 profile?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi yasamoka i have posted the log file from Color Sustainer below and helpfully it will give you some clues to what is going on with my 96hz display mode?....also as you can see in the picture below it does infact light up green when i have associated and ICC profile with 96hz display mode
> 
> 
> 
> Log.zip 4k .zip file


Thanks!

Hmmm, try moving the color profile out of the System32/spool/etc... directory and preferably into a non-system folder on your main drive. And tell me how it goes.
Quote:


> I also would be more than happy to help you with your sister thread that you will be opening soon..just let me know when its open


Thanks in advance!
Quote:


> Do you mean as in can BasICColor do say an ICC v4 profile?


Yep, the file should look similar to the dispcal-generated file that goes like this somewhere in the file (it's a text file):

NUMBER_OF_SETS 256
BEGIN_DATA
Then a bunch of numbers. Those numbers are what is loaded into the graphics card LUT, as a gamma ramp.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Hmmm, try moving the color profile out of the System32/spool/etc... directory and preferably into a non-system folder on your main drive. And tell me how it goes.
> Thanks in advance!
> Yep, the file should look similar to the dispcal-generated file that goes like this somewhere in the file (it's a text file):
> 
> NUMBER_OF_SETS 256
> BEGIN_DATA
> Then a bunch of numbers. Those numbers are what is loaded into the graphics card LUT, as a gamma ramp.


I will quickly calibrate a BasICColor 5 ICC v4 profile now


----------



## Jetlitheone

Suggestions for a good and affordable colorimeter or spectrometer?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Suggestions for a good and affordable colorimeter or spectrometer?


Spectrometers are anything but affordable. They do not measure black levels as well as colorimeters generally, so a colorimeter is still required. Therefore, colorimeter.

Spyder4Express: skip the more expensive packages (Pro, Elite) as those have mostly the same sensor (with an ambient sensor as extra) and you end up paying for that + more expensive Datacolor software whereas 3rd-party software is generally superior, more flexible, and free. Not very good at measuring the lowest black levels, but for the higher luminances it should be fine. Spyder3 units had variance issues previously. No data for the Spyder4, but it's going to have more variance than the more expensive *sensors* listed below. Around ~$90 in the USA.

At the higher pricepoints of $150+, I'd go for the:

Colormunki Display (~$170), for which X-Rite didn't release an SDK to ensure support in 3rd-party applications such as HCFR, ArgyllCMS (+dispcalGUI), ChromaPure, etc... but for which there is support from ArgyllCMS and HCFR via reverse engineering.

i1 Display Pro (~$250), for which X-Rite have released an SDK to ensure 3rd-party support. ArgyllCMS and HCFR naturally support this sensor. It measures faster than the Colormunki Display (but not on blacks, where they both need about the same time or close), although the sensor (a Display3 / D3 sensor) seems to be identical, and they should both deliver similar performance. The i1DP, being at a higher price point, MIGHT have more QC checks done, and variance kept to lesser margins than the Colormunki Display, but that is an unsubstantiated guess of mine that you might not want to worry about.

I remember reading that the Colormunki Display did not support reading refresh rates (for a refresh display like CRT I'm guessing - but then again the i1DP does not support CRTs so I donno) while the i1DP did, in order to measure more accurately. Might want to google that.

A few pages back, check hammelgammler's posts and mine.


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Congrats!! Let us know how it goes. Mine came from them as well.


Most definitely will, how quick was shipping for you?


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> Most definitely will, how quick was shipping for you?


He accepted my offer on Monday and I received two days later on Wednesday. From South Korea to my door in Texas within two days. Amazing really. I was shocked.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Hmmm, try moving the color profile out of the System32/spool/etc... directory and preferably into a non-system folder on your main drive. And tell me how it goes.
> Thanks in advance!
> Yep, the file should look similar to the dispcal-generated file that goes like this somewhere in the file (it's a text file):
> 
> NUMBER_OF_SETS 256
> BEGIN_DATA
> Then a bunch of numbers. Those numbers are what is loaded into the graphics card LUT, as a gamma ramp.


Hmmm it seems it does not like BasICColor 5 ICC v4 profile but at least we know whats going wrong now...and i have proved that you are indeed correct as to what the problem was....if i set my 120hz dispcalGUI profile to my 96hz display mode then Color Sustainer works flawlessly so i will crate an 96hz ICC profile using dispcalGUI at some other time as it take quite a while to calibrate using dispcalGUI....however i do think it produces the best ICC profiles with my spyder 4 out of all the calibration software i have used...however it does take some time!...

Thanks for helping me sort that out yasamoka once i have done that and applied it to color Sustainer i do believe using your software i will have the most perfectly set up overclocked monitor !


----------



## yasamoka

Awesome stuff, hope to have the parsing for multiple types of ICC profiles working soon.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Awesome stuff, hope to have the parsing for multiple types of ICC profiles working soon.


Great stuff and rep Given for such a fantastic app as Color Sustainer...i would highly recommend this to all of our monitor overclocking community members as essential piece of software which goes to add that finishing touch to all of our nice new shiny 96hz/120hz monitors









Created by yasamoka: Please download Color Sustainer from the link below and leave any feed back you may have to yasamoka within that thread so as to help him to develop this fantastic app further...thanks









http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Spectrometers are anything but affordable. They do not measure black levels as well as colorimeters generally, so a colorimeter is still required. Therefore, colorimeter.
> 
> Spyder4Express: skip the more expensive packages (Pro, Elite) as those have mostly the same sensor (with an ambient sensor as extra) and you end up paying for that + more expensive Datacolor software whereas 3rd-party software is generally superior, more flexible, and free. Not very good at measuring the lowest black levels, but for the higher luminances it should be fine. Spyder3 units had variance issues previously. No data for the Spyder4, but it's going to have more variance than the more expensive *sensors* listed below. Around ~$90 in the USA.
> 
> At the higher pricepoints of $150+, I'd go for the:
> 
> Colormunki Display (~$170), for which X-Rite didn't release an SDK to ensure support in 3rd-party applications such as HCFR, ArgyllCMS (+dispcalGUI), ChromaPure, etc... but for which there is support from ArgyllCMS and HCFR via reverse engineering.
> 
> i1 Display Pro (~$250), for which X-Rite have released an SDK to ensure 3rd-party support. ArgyllCMS and HCFR naturally support this sensor. It measures faster than the Colormunki Display (but not on blacks, where they both need about the same time or close), although the sensor (a Display3 / D3 sensor) seems to be identical, and they should both deliver similar performance. The i1DP, being at a higher price point, MIGHT have more QC checks done, and variance kept to lesser margins than the Colormunki Display, but that is an unsubstantiated guess of mine that you might not want to worry about.
> 
> I remember reading that the Colormunki Display did not support reading refresh rates (for a refresh display like CRT I'm guessing - but then again the i1DP does not support CRTs so I donno) while the i1DP did, in order to measure more accurately. Might want to google that.
> 
> A few pages back, check hammelgammler's posts and mine.


Thanks a lot. Will grab one soon


----------



## Watagump

Did they really improve the Spyder 4 Express enough over the 3 Express to upgrade?


----------



## voncreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voncreme*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my QNIX from bigclothcraft. Are these horizontal lines backlight bleed or indicative of another problem? They cover the whole first "third" section of the monitor, with the middle and right side being perfect. Would the blacklight bleed do anything or should I try to send it back?
> When I apply some pressure and bend it from the back, the lines seem to lessen. Also viewing it from a different angle seems to make the lines go away.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> The mere fact that you can apply pressure to the panel and the lines "lessen" is evidence that the lines could be all but eliminated by the BLB fix to relieve pressure. I would try the bezel adjustment first and see if you can fix it then send it back. The angles are just an optical effect of the last top layer of the panel shielding the ripple effect. I had a chat with someone a couple pages back regarding the exact same issue. Unfortunately he never posted back.
> 
> Overall anyone with seemingly pressure related issues should attempt the BLB fix before considering an RMA. It is very much worth it to try a simple 30 minute repair before dealing with korean returns or even squaretrade.


A very late update (my fix and the subsequent deal with bigclothcraft were made a few days after this post).

I managed to open up the monitor, breaking off two of the dingy plastic clamps in the process







(no real effect, just follow the directions and don't go willy nilly like I did). Upon opening, I noticed that the side of the screen with the horizontal lines had no padding where it should have been (the padding pushes the back of the screen). This picture shows the left side of the screen and the two places where there should have been pads.



I was feeling rather lazy at this point and didn't feel like scouring for some replacement pads, so I just moved one of the pads from the right side down to the bottom left to kind of even things out. To my amazement, it did fix the problem. Though the lines are now there, they are hardly noticeable (and this pic probably makes it seem much worse if anything). I haven't noticed it AT ALL since the fix and I am a very picky kind of person that would be driven to insanity over the likes of a dead pixel or an issue like this











HOWEVER

I had contacted my seller over the issue before I opened the monitor (but I opened it before hearing back anyways) and he declared it a manufacturers defect and offered to give me a brand new monitor for free (and he would pay shipping) OR give me a "special offer" which turned out to be a $100 refund. I gladly took the $100 (what seller does that?!) and now have a great looking monitor with no blacklight bleed, only slight horizontal lines that barely look like smudge marks. So I paid $200 for this great monitor.

Couldn't be happier with the seller, this guy is truly amazing and wonderful. *I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BIGCLOTHCRAFT*


----------



## doco

i haven't checked back in this thread for a while. was the problem ever solved for the gamma color shift completely when overclocking the monitor? i.e. one side of the monitor would be darker than the other when overclocked. in my case the top right would be a bit darker than the rest of the sides.


----------



## DzillaXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voncreme*
> 
> A very late update (my fix and the subsequent deal with bigclothcraft were made a few days after this post).
> 
> I managed to open up the monitor, breaking off two of the dingy plastic clamps in the process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (no real effect, just follow the directions and don't go willy nilly like I did). Upon opening, I noticed that the side of the screen with the horizontal lines had no padding where it should have been (the padding pushes the back of the screen). This picture shows the left side of the screen and the two places where there should have been pads.
> 
> 
> 
> I was feeling rather lazy at this point and didn't feel like scouring for some replacement pads, so I just moved one of the pads from the right side down to the bottom left to kind of even things out. To my amazement, it did fix the problem. Though the lines are now there, they are hardly noticeable (and this pic probably makes it seem much worse if anything). I haven't noticed it AT ALL since the fix and I am a very picky kind of person that would be driven to insanity over the likes of a dead pixel or an issue like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOWEVER
> 
> I had contacted my seller over the issue before I opened the monitor (but I opened it before hearing back anyways) and he declared it a manufacturers defect and offered to give me a brand new monitor for free (and he would pay shipping) OR give me a "special offer" which turned out to be a $100 refund. I gladly took the $100 (what seller does that?!) and now have a great looking monitor with no blacklight bleed, only slight horizontal lines that barely look like smudge marks. So I paid $200 for this great monitor.
> 
> Couldn't be happier with the seller, this guy is truly amazing and wonderful. *I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BIGCLOTHCRAFT*


If that last picture is the fixed one then I would have to say you have some pretty bad back light bleed TBH.

I would look at bending you monitor frame straight and using electrical tape to help as well.

My Monitor is totally Black on a Black screen, and only if I turn my brightness to the max can I barely see a slightly lighter area in the bottom middle of my screen above the x-star logo. You really have to look for it, As the bleed is less noticeable then the small part of light bleed on your last pic on the top left of the screen where it has a small amount of light bleed. Personally Feel a little lucky for getting such a nice panel.

Though I would imagine it looks pretty decent when it comes to actual use.


----------



## RedLegion

Hey guys. Im having a bit of trouble. My monitor was working fine @ 120hz with 2 other monitors up until today when I updated my drivers to the newest AMD beta for my 7950. As soon as the drivers were done downloading, my screen started to go into some sort of test mode with red green blue and color and shading gradient screens cycling. I uninstalled the drivers and went back to the stable 13.16 version and the problem persists.

Any idea of what the problem could be? ive been using the monitor for a solid 2 months with no problems until now.

EDIT: Got it out of test mode but its back down to 60 Hz. Tried following the overclock tut again but the drop down box only shows 60 Hz now even though CRU has them all listed. Theres also a second monitor profile with the same name with only 60 Hz but trying to add a 120 hz profile doesnt change anything

EDIT2: Never mind. Had to repatch. Thanks for the help! lol


----------



## cumanzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> Get the Display Port Version, comes with HDMI, DP, and DL-DVI. You lose out on the ability to overclock though.


That's a big trade off, I really wanted to overclock it. But for the price.....

Do you know whose a reliable DP vendor?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> If that last picture is the fixed one then I would have to say you have some pretty bad back light bleed TBH.
> 
> I would look at bending you monitor frame straight and using electrical tape to help as well.
> 
> My Monitor is totally Black on a Black screen, and only if I turn my brightness to the max can I barely see a slightly lighter area in the bottom middle of my screen above the x-star logo. You really have to look for it, As the bleed is less noticeable then the small part of light bleed on your last pic on the top left of the screen where it has a small amount of light bleed. Personally Feel a little lucky for getting such a nice panel.
> 
> Though I would imagine it looks pretty decent when it comes to actual use.


I still wouldn't deal with it... Lol


----------



## FGCHENG

Just ordered one, should be coming in any day now







. Are there any major problems like screen flickering etc?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> i haven't checked back in this thread for a while. was the problem ever solved for the gamma color shift completely when overclocking the monitor? i.e. one side of the monitor would be darker than the other when overclocked. in my case the top right would be a bit darker than the rest of the sides.


Hi it seems some people have that a lot worse than others..on mine it is only barely noticeable on full green background...but then you really have to look for it....optimizing your timings should help when set at 120hz...also a shorter DVI-D cable has been known to help some people as this technically should help give you a stronger signal....also debatable but a higher quality DVI-D cable could also help...try these optimized timings below and see if that helps...the pixel clock limit is 450mhz so the closer you can get to that the stronger the signal you will get....i find these timings below the nearest i can get to the 450mhz pixel clock which is 459mhz.....and there are not many people at who can get much lower than that.





http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/1m-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2792


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Great stuff and rep Given for such a fantastic app as Color Sustainer...i would highly recommend this to all of our monitor overclocking community members as essential piece of software which goes to add that finishing touch to all of our nice new shiny 96hz/120hz monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Created by yasamoka
> 
> *edited out*


Ah, thanks, but I'd rather the original Guru3D thread be linked to. That way, I can have feedback there and inform users of any new versions or information they might want to know.

It's fine, though. The app is made to be distributed but I always recommend everyone to pop over into the original thread and post feedback there.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Ah, thanks, but I'd rather the original Guru3D thread be linked to. That way, I can have feedback there and inform users of any new versions or information they might want to know.
> 
> It's fine, though. The app is made to be distributed but I always recommend everyone to pop over into the original thread and post feedback there.


Oh yasamoka i am sorry i can edit the post to a link at Guru3D if you wish


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Oh yasamoka i am sorry i can edit the post to a link at Guru3D if you wish


Nah







Just add a link to the original thread too, if you like.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Nah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just add a link to the original thread too, if you like.


Well i just edited my original post and linked it to the original thread


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Nah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just add a link to the original thread too, if you like.


I have to admit yasamoka i was playing Tomb raider 4 for an hour or so last night and the gamma and colors where just fantastic and looked much better than before i was using Color Sustainer!... also with Tomb raider 4 in graphic options it recognized the refresh rates your monitor can produce....and what with Color Sustainer loading my corrected gamma and colours into Tomb raider 4 it looks just fantastic,

Also i am now using a Qnix monitor driver file which i found allowed me to stop using CRU and add my custom refresh rates though NVCP....this set up allows my games to see my higher refresh rates without the need for CRU!....this also allows me to use nvidia experience to set up my games again....and as you can see from the pictures below using your software color Sustainer with nvidia experience installed and working again i can hit a true 120fps at 120hz using ultra settings...also you can see in the picture below that nvidia experience can also recognize that i have a 120hz monitor and sets up the game accordingly...

TBH i don't believe i could have a better set up than i have right now using color Sustainer in conjunction with the ability to use nvidia experience once again!


----------



## renji1337

Does color sustainer apply icc profiles when games ignore them, like WoW and guild wars 2? Cpkeeper doesn't apply profiles with them either


----------



## HOTDOGS

As promised, here it is! As far as member information to add me to the list, I purchased the X-STAR DP2710LED from the eBay seller dream-seller. I am located in Canada and the monitor arrived with, as far as I can tell, only two dead pixels. I will be doing more tests with my DSLR to investigate any issues regarding backlight leak, but for now it seems fine!

Add me to your club, please.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I have to admit yasamoka i was playing Tomb raider 4 for an hour or so last night and the gamma and colors where just fantastic and looked much better than before i was using Color Sustainer!... also with Tomb raider 4 in graphic options it recognized the refresh rates your monitor can produce....and what with Color Sustainer loading my corrected gamma and colours into Tomb raider 4 it looks just fantastic,
> 
> Also i am now using a Qnix monitor driver file which i found allowed me to stop using CRU and add my custom refresh rates though NVCP....this set up allows my games to see my higher refresh rates without the need for CRU!....this also allows me to use nvidia experience to set up my games again....and as you can see from the pictures below using your software color Sustainer with nvidia experience installed and working again i can hit a true 120fps at 120hz using ultra settings...also you can see in the picture below that nvidia experience can also recognize that i have a 120hz monitor and sets up the game accordingly...
> 
> TBH i don't believe i could have a better set up than i have right now using color Sustainer in conjunction with the ability to use nvidia experience once again!


Well...THAT's what the application was made for. Enjoy!

BTW, on a sidenote screenshots do not show color corrections without making them do so. If you want to show someone how your screen looks, you would have to tag the photos with a profile specifying the color errors your screen itself makes (not the correcting color profile) and his monitor should be calibrated to reference as well.

Here is my games & color profiles report about Tomb Raider 4:
Quote:


> Fullscreen & Exclusive Fullscreen:
> 
> On game launch:
> 
> -Does not override / ignore color profile
> *Does nothing
> 
> -Gamma slider function:
> *Handles gamma via its own engine - works in conjunction with the color profile
> 
> On changing resolution or refresh rate or adjusting gamma slider:
> 
> -Ignores color profile
> *Calls IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() AND / OR
> *Manages colors via its own engine
> 
> -Gamma slider function:
> *Calls IDXGIDevice::SetGammaControl() - ignores color profile AND / OR
> *Handles gamma via its own engine - ignores color profile
> 
> NOTE: if the gamma slider is changed, then the game is restarted, it follows the function specified under "On game launch".
> NOTE 2: The game seems to call SetGammaControl() to reset the color profile then handles gamma via its own engine.
> 
> Requires:
> -Set the proper resolution and refresh rate and adjust the gamma slider before the game starts OR
> -Restart the game after changing resolution or refresh rate or adjusting the gamma slider.
> 
> Fullscreen only (seems to behave like borderless windowed mode - streches non-native resolutions to fit the whole screen) & windowed mode:
> 
> -Does not override / ignore color profile
> *Does nothing
> 
> -Gamma slider function:
> *Handles gamma via its own engine - works in conjunction with color profile
> 
> Requires:
> -Nothing - Excellent


@renji: WoW works by checking the "Use Desktop Gamma" box. AFAIK, it will use the profile loaded with Windows, so you'll have to set your monitor at the refresh rate that WoW will use. Color Sustainer will load the appropriate color profile and WoW will grab it (?) and use it itself.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Well...THAT's what the application was made for. Enjoy!
> 
> BTW, on a sidenote screenshots do not show color corrections without making them do so. If you want to show someone how your screen looks, you would have to tag the photos with a profile specifying the color errors your screen itself makes (not the correcting color profile) and his monitor should be calibrated to reference as well.
> 
> @renji: WoW works by checking the "Use Desktop Gamma" box. AFAIK, it will use the profile loaded with Windows, so you'll have to set your monitor at the refresh rate that WoW will use. Color Sustainer will load the appropriate color profile and WoW will grab it (?) and use it itself.


For some reason use desktop gamma does not do anything for me


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> For some reason use desktop gamma does not do anything for me


Mmmm strange. Try experimenting with setting different refresh rates before entering WoW, and load a pre-defined color tint for each using Color Sustainer. That way, you'll be able to know easily.


----------



## lawson67

nvm


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Well...THAT's what the application was made for. Enjoy!
> 
> BTW, on a sidenote screenshots do not show color corrections without making them do so. If you want to show someone how your screen looks, you would have to tag the photos with a profile specifying the color errors your screen itself makes (not the correcting color profile) and his monitor should be calibrated to reference as well


Ahh Right i understand now and thanks for the advice and heads up on that yasamoka


----------



## WhineTraube

Hi guys, i just got my qnix today and got some questions/problems.

First of all i cant get anywhere near 120 Hz, i maximally get somewhere like 105 Hz. I tried the custom timings you suggested but they dont work either.

Secondly, if i choose a custom refresh rate my gpu wont clock down in idle mode. I have a 7970 and it normally clocks down to 150 MHz memory clock if i am on the desktop.
At 96 Hz it just stays at the maximum clock and so my GPU gets to 70° C in idle, which i dont like at all.

I hope you can help me.

PS: On the upside: 0 dead pixels and as far as i can see in daylight no backlight bleeding whatsoever.


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Also i am now using a Qnix monitor driver file which i found allowed me to stop using CRU and add my custom refresh rates though NVCP....


may i ask where you found that Qnix driver file?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhineTraube*
> 
> Hi guys, i just got my qnix today and got some questions/problems.
> 
> First of all i cant get anywhere near 120 Hz, i maximally get somewhere like 105 Hz. I tried the custom timings you suggested but they dont work either.
> 
> Secondly, if i choose a custom refresh rate my gpu wont clock down in idle mode. I have a 7970 and it normally clocks down to 150 MHz memory clock if i am on the desktop.
> At 96 Hz it just stays at the maximum clock and so my GPU gets to 70° C in idle, which i dont like at all.
> 
> I hope you can help me.
> 
> PS: On the upside: 0 dead pixels and as far as i can see in daylight no backlight bleeding whatsoever.


Have you patched your drivers?...have you read the overclocking post in the OP?


----------



## WhineTraube

Yes, i followed the tutorial and patched my drivers before that.
I seem to have even more problems now, i cant change back to 60 Hz, or my screen will go crazy and i cant watch youtube videos.
I think i will reinstall my gpu drivers, even though i just installed the newest version today.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> may i ask where you found that Qnix driver file?


Hi Here is a Qnix monitor driver....its is not digitally signed so if you are using windows 8.1 you will need to use the guide below to disable for one windows session only windows "Driver signature enforcement" to be able to install it









qnix.zip 0k .zip file


http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhineTraube*
> 
> Yes, i followed the tutorial and patched my drivers before that.
> I seem to have even more problems now, i cant change back to 60 Hz, or my screen will go crazy and i cant watch youtube videos.
> I think i will reinstall my gpu drivers, even though i just installed the newest version today.


You did not delete the 60hz profile in CRU did you?.....

what are you using AMD or nvidia?...which method are you using to overclock...more information the better


----------



## WhineTraube

The 60hz profile is still there in cru and i use an AMD hd 7970. i overclocked using cru just like in the first post of this thread.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhineTraube*
> 
> The 60hz profile is still there in cru and i use an AMD hd 7970. i overclocked using cru just like in the first post of this thread.


I don't use AMD however if you followed the instructions i am at a loss to understand what is going on...did you reboot after you set the custom resolutions in CRU?...in exactly what order did you do things in?...are you using your duel link DVI-D cable?


----------



## WhineTraube

So, i completely reinstalled my GPU driver and then repatched it.
I executed CRU and made two new profiles, one 96 Hz and one 120 Hz with your timings.

I rebooted my PC and it was automatically set to 96 Hz.

Now, when i try to watch a youtube video my screen turns black with some coloured lines, even if the video is not in fullscreen.
If i try to change the refreshrate back to 60 Hz its a similar picture, but i can still see some parts of the screen, so i can turn it back to 96 Hz.
I use the standard cable that came with the monitor.

This really sucks, i hope you can help me. I am clueless, i did everything just the way everyone else did.


----------



## bestaan

Anyone know if a DVI-D Dual link to HDMI 1.4 will work on a PS4? Couldn't the monitor just receive the 1080p signal output from the ps4?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhineTraube*
> 
> So, i completely reinstalled my GPU driver and then repatched it.
> I executed CRU and made two new profiles, one 96 Hz and one 120 Hz with your timings.
> 
> I rebooted my PC and it was automatically set to 96 Hz.
> 
> Now, when i try to watch a youtube video my screen turns black with some coloured lines, even if the video is not in fullscreen.
> If i try to change the refreshrate back to 60 Hz its a similar picture, but i can still see some parts of the screen, so i can turn it back to 96 Hz.
> I use the standard cable that came with the monitor.
> 
> This really sucks, i hope you can help me. I am clueless, i did everything just the way everyone else did.


Did you read this when you downloaded the patch?

Compatibility:
Version 1.2.3 is compatible with Catalyst 11.9 to 14.1. It can be used with future versions if it finds all the limits.
Test mode is not required anymore. Test mode can be disabled using this: http://www.monitortests.com/testmode.zip
Getting started:
Run atikmdag-patcher.exe.
If all limits are found, click "Yes" to patch and sign. If a limit is not found or if multiple matches are found, the patcher needs to be updated.
Reboot.
You can then add higher refresh rates using Custom Resolution Utility (CRU).

To restore the unpatched driver, run the patcher again and click "Yes" to restore from backup.

Known issues:
Modifying the AMD/ATI driver breaks HDCP support and may cause issues with video playback:
Green screen with Flash video: disable hardware acceleration in the Flash Player settings.
Green screen with video playback: disable video acceleration (DXVA) in the video player or decoder.
siberx Wrote:
I would just like to add that if you're trying to do video playback with media player classic (I was using homecinema) and you're getting a green screen, you don't need to switch your renderer to alleviate the problem. You simply need to go to the "Internal Filters" section of the options for MPC and uncheck DXVA. You can then leave the renderer on EVR or whatever it was set to before.
Black screen with HDTV playback in Windows Media Center:
Set the video decoder to "AMD Video Decoder" (or "ATI MPEG Video Decoder" in older versions) using this program: Media Center Decoder Utility
GPU scaling does not work on 5000-series GPUs if the pixel clock is greater than 363.63 MHz.
Recent changes:
1.2.3: Updated for 13.30 and upcoming 14.x releases.
1.2.2: New HDMI limit found for 12.9+.
1.2.1: Added VGA limit (untested).
1.2: Test mode no longer required.
1.1.2: Fixed 32-bit support for 13.6 (64-bit unchanged). Changed SL limit on DL-DVI. Redesigned testmode.exe.
1.1.1: Added 32-bit support.

Also make sure your graphics card is not overclocked...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bestaan*
> 
> Anyone know if a DVI-D Dual link to HDMI 1.4 will work on a PS4? Couldn't the monitor just receive the 1080p signal output from the ps4?


If you have the Qnix monitor with only one port in being a DVI-D then you have the overclockable Qnix and it does not have a scaler therefore it will not work sorry...


----------



## SeanEboy

Hey guys! Apparently I'm a bit late to the party.. But, better late than never!!! I have (2) questions...

First off, I am building a 4930k, RIVBE, 4x4GB Dominator GT, 840 Pro gaming machine.. However, I want to go with (2) monitors.. One for gaming, and one for general bs'ing (web browsing, etc), while playing.. My question is this.. Would buying (2) QX2710's bog down my FPS, versus simply going with (1) Qnix, and (1) typical monitor (Dell/Asus/etc)?

Secondly, who is the seller to go with? Greensum? Accessorieswhole? I see he has them down at $289 at the moment... I must be honest, I'd be kind of pissed if I had any dead pixels. So, should I go pixel perfect?

I appreciate any help you guys can offer! I'm hoping to be a member of the 120hz club really soon!!


----------



## DzillaXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Hey guys! Apparently I'm a bit late to the party.. But, better late than never!!! I have (2) questions...
> 
> First off, I am building a 4930k, RIVBE, 4x4GB Dominator GT, 840 Pro gaming machine.. However, I want to go with (2) monitors.. One for gaming, and one for general bs'ing (web browsing, etc), while playing.. My question is this.. Would buying (2) QX2710's bog down my FPS, versus simply going with (1) Qnix, and (1) typical monitor (Dell/Asus/etc)?
> 
> Secondly, who is the seller to go with? Greensum? Accessorieswhole? I see he has them down at $289 at the moment... I must be honest, I'd be kind of pissed if I had any dead pixels. So, should I go pixel perfect?
> 
> I appreciate any help you guys can offer! I'm hoping to be a member of the 120hz club really soon!!


The brand of monitor has nothing to do with it.

The Qnix or X-Star will bog down your FPS no more then any 1440p monitor.

I just moved from a 120hz 1080p screen to this X-Star 1440p screen. Have yet to do any overclocking as I need to update my drivers, but that would require me to turn off my PC and stop mining for a short time







But Nice thing about these monitors is the ability to OC and gain some of that action back.

120hz is fluid and vary clear on fast movements. But TBH the Color on a PLS/IPS panel is just that much better, and the Increased Rez is even better. 1440p makes 1080p feel cramped.

My 7950 handles 1440p with ease, So you really should have a problem if you pick up a 280x or better/gtx780 or better. GTX770 4GB would also be fine, I would just stay away with only getting stuck with 2gb for 1440p for the next couple of years.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> The brand of monitor has nothing to do with it.
> 
> The Qnix or X-Star will bog down your FPS no more then any 1440p monitor.
> 
> I just moved from a 120hz 1080p screen to this X-Star 1440p screen. Have yet to do any overclocking as I need to update my drivers, but that would require me to turn off my PC and stop mining for a short time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But Nice thing about these monitors is the ability to OC and gain some of that action back.
> 
> 120hz is fluid and vary clear on fast movements. But TBH the Color on a PLS/IPS panel is just that much better, and the Increased Rez is even better. 1440p makes 1080p feel cramped.
> 
> My 7950 handles 1440p with ease, So you really should have a problem if you pick up a 280x or better/gtx780 or better. GTX770 4GB would also be fine, I would just stay away with only getting stuck with 2gb for 1440p for the next couple of years.


Hey, thanks for the response! As for the monitor - I guess what I meant was, would pushing (2) Qnix pixels cause more stress on (2) 290s, than (1) Qnix, and (1) 1080P... Because, quite frankly, I don't know if I really need 1440p resolution to just look at dumb chit online... Ya know?

I'm trying to get the best performance I can for BF4.. And, if getting (2) Qnix is going to negatively impact that, I won't do it.. Otherwise, I have the money in paypal, just itching to effin' pull the trigger...


----------



## Jetlitheone

Getting my qnix in a few hours or so. Woo!


----------



## OutlawII

Finally took the time to overclock mine to 120 hz yesterday it works great!


----------



## DzillaXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Hey, thanks for the response! As for the monitor - I guess what I meant was, would pushing (2) Qnix pixels cause more stress on (2) 290s, than (1) Qnix, and (1) 1080P... Because, quite frankly, I don't know if I really need 1440p resolution to just look at dumb chit online... Ya know?
> 
> I'm trying to get the best performance I can for BF4.. And, if getting (2) Qnix is going to negatively impact that, I won't do it.. Otherwise, I have the money in paypal, just itching to effin' pull the trigger...


Nope no impact. Plus two Qnix monitors would look pretty awesome next to eachother. Also would allow you to use the best one as your main monitor. Though you could always get a cheaper 1080p IPS, I would just stay away from TN if you want a pretty picture. You could also just get a 20" 1600x900 monitor and run it in portrait mode. Though you would ether need to buy one with a stand that has that option or buy a new stand to do so.

I have three monitors connected to my 7950.
My old 1080p monitor is Vertical then my X-Star then my other 1080p screen in landscape. So much Screen, Vary Wow


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi Here is a Qnix monitor driver....its is not digitally signed so if you are using windows 8.1 you will need to use the guide below to disable for one windows session only windows "Driver signature enforcement" to be able to install it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


thanks. i already had the driver file downloaded (but thanks again for uploading them). my question was whether this file comes from Qnix or someone just made an INF file for this monitor?

EDIT: nevermind. looked inside the INF file. it seems like it is created by someone and is not official. (not that it matters anyway; i was just curious!)


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> Much Screen, Vary Wow


*FTFY ;c)

Yeah, so (2) Qnix it is! Who do I pull the trigger with? Accessories or greensum? Accessories has them down at $289!

Fugit! Maybe I'll just get a 3rd.. I just sold $2k worth of stereo equipment that I bought for $600... It's fuggen PARTAY TIEM!!!!


----------



## hammelgammler

Would it be better to do a profile type "L*a*b LUT" instead of "Curves + matrix"?
It pre selects a default testchart for matrix profiles when using curves + matrix. When using L*a*b*LUT or XYZ LUT + matrix it pre selects default testchart for LUT profiles.
LUT profiles should have a better accuracity then matrix profiles. lawson's settings had a Lage testchart for LUT profiles and curves + matrix profile type, does that makes sense?
I would think when using a L*a*b LUT or XYZ LUT + matrix you should get better results...
Maybe anyone is familiar with dispcal/argyll, i dont have any clue which is better.

Edit: At the dispcalGUI website: " L*a*b* or XYZ can be used as PCS, with XYZ being recommended especially for wide-gamut displays bacause their primaries might exceed the ICC L*a*b* encoding range".
So as the Qnix is not a wide gamut display i think a L*a*b profile would be better.
But which is the best? "L*a*b LUT" or "Curves + matrix" when using a "Massive testchart for LUT profiles"?...


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Would it be better to do a profile type "L*a*b LUT" instead of "Curves + matrix"?
> It pre selects a default testchart for matrix profiles when using curves + matrix. When using L*a*b*LUT or XYZ LUT + matrix it pre selects default testchart for LUT profiles.
> LUT profiles should have a better accuracity then matrix profiles. lawson's settings had a Lage testchart for LUT profiles and curves + matrix profile type, does that makes sense?
> I would think when using a L*a*b LUT or XYZ LUT + matrix you should get better results...
> Maybe anyone is familiar with dispcal/argyll, i dont have any clue which is better.
> 
> Edit: At the dispcalGUI website: " L*a*b* or XYZ can be used as PCS, with XYZ being recommended especially for wide-gamut displays bacause their primaries might exceed the ICC L*a*b* encoding range".
> So as the Qnix is not a wide gamut display i think a L*a*b profile would be better.
> But which is the best? "L*a*b LUT" or "Curves + matrix" when using a "Massive testchart for LUT profiles"?...


Not sure they are of any benefit in non color-managed applications. Windows, games, and videos not loaded with a color-aware video player should only make use of the gamma ramp that is loaded with a simple Windows function by Windows loader / 3rd-party loader, and that's a 4x256 matrix specifying input values, R_out, G_out, B_out (corrected values) for each of the 256 steps.


----------



## WhineTraube

Ok, youtube videos now work again with disabled hardware acceleration.
I guess i have a qnix, that cant be overclocked that high, or maybe i need another cable but i think i can live with 96 Hz for now.

What still bothers me, is that my gpu does not clock down if i am using a custom refresh rate.
I guess i could underclock it manually with msi afterburner and clock it back to normal if i want to play a game, but that would only be an emergency solution.

Maybe someone has the same problem and found a solution.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> *FTFY ;c)
> 
> Yeah, so (2) Qnix it is! Who do I pull the trigger with? Accessories or greensum? Accessories has them down at $289!
> 
> Fugit! Maybe I'll just get a 3rd.. I just sold $2k worth of stereo equipment that I bought for $600... It's fuggen PARTAY TIEM!!!!


Aaaand you'll then be tempted to run 7680x1440 with triple monitors, killing your performance


----------



## DzillaXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> *FTFY ;c)
> 
> Yeah, so (2) Qnix it is! Who do I pull the trigger with? Accessories or greensum? Accessories has them down at $289!
> 
> Fugit! Maybe I'll just get a 3rd.. I just sold $2k worth of stereo equipment that I bought for $600... It's fuggen PARTAY TIEM!!!!


My buddy used GreenSum for his old LG based 1440p monitor, though Dream-Seller has the X-Star model for $279. I got mine from them and only took 3 days to get here








Shipped Mon, got it Wed.

The X-Star and Qnix is the same monitor just different logo. And I got a a pretty good panel at that.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> thanks. i already had the driver file downloaded (but thanks again for uploading them). my question was whether this file comes from Qnix or someone just made an INF file for this monitor?
> 
> EDIT: nevermind. looked inside the INF file. it seems like it is created by someone and is not official. (not that it matters anyway; i was just curious!)


No Qnix do not make a monitor driver file it is a made up file....but now i don't need to use CRU and i can use Nvidia experience and my games can now see my custom resolutions


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Aaaand you'll then be tempted to run 7680x1440 with triple monitors, killing your performance


Haha, I know, totally... I'm very aware that I'm basically playing with fire here... Haha.. But, I think I'd rather have (1) Qnix, than 3D surround, at this point...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> My buddy used GreenSum for his old LG based 1440p monitor, though Dream-Seller has the X-Star model for $279. I got mine from them and only took 3 days to get here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shipped Mon, got it Wed.
> 
> The X-Star and Qnix is the same monitor just different logo. And I got a a pretty good panel at that.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


Thanks for that info.. So, it seems that there is no clear cut winner on who to order from...


----------



## DCat

My QNIX is running at 100Hz on Win 8. Shortly after boot the screen goes black for 1 sec (possibly a resolution change). Is there any way to stop this please?

Edit: maybe it's related to Afterburner actually?


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Not sure they are of any benefit in non color-managed applications. Windows, games, and videos not loaded with a color-aware video player should only make use of the gamma ramp that is loaded with a simple Windows function by Windows loader / 3rd-party loader, and that's a 4x256 matrix specifying input values, R_out, G_out, B_out (corrected values) for each of the 256 steps.


So you would say a "curves + matrix" profile is the option to choose when doing a "massive testchart for lut profile"?
Dont know if i have understood your post...


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DCat*
> 
> My QNIX is running at 100Hz on Win 8. Shortly after boot the screen goes black for 1 sec (possibly a resolution change). Is there any way to stop this please?
> 
> Edit: maybe it's related to Afterburner actually?


Mine does this too, does it at 96hz and 110hz.

I have GTX670, using CRU


----------



## renji1337

Grr wow still wont use the ICC profile with color sustainer either lol


----------



## Jetlitheone

Got my new one...

One word WOW!

This goes to 130hz STABLE no lines or anything lol

Color calibration is much better.

Overall very very very happy!

Her @lawson how many click from the bottom for your profile again?


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Got my new one...
> 
> One word WOW!
> 
> This goes to 130hz STABLE no lines or anything lol
> 
> Color calibration is much better.
> 
> Overall very very very happy!
> 
> Her @lawson how many click from the bottom for your profile again?


130hz with stock cable?? That would be awesome!
What GPU Do you use? With a very short cable you may be able to OC to 144hz lol...








Are you using custom timings for 130hz?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> 130hz with stock cable?? That would be awesome!
> What GPU Do you use? With a very short cable you may be able to OC to 144hz lol...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using custom timings for 130hz?


I have 2x 770s

and not the stock cable







a monoprice I had


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Got my new one...
> 
> One word WOW!
> 
> This goes to 130hz STABLE no lines or anything lol
> 
> Color calibration is much better.
> 
> Overall very very very happy!
> 
> Her @lawson how many click from the bottom for your profile again?


18 clicks up from a black screen for 120hz and 17 up for 96hz...really pleased you got a good one...use the 120hz in this zip as it a really good one and both the 96hz ICC are good as well...the other zip i had containing my 96hz had my crap 96hz ICC profile in it for some reason i must of put the wrong one in it....these are good to go mate









120hzand96hz200cdm.zip 73k .zip file


----------



## hammelgammler

Just did another profile with dispcal. Now the Profile type was set to L*a*b LUT and to a "Default testchart for LUT". Brightness was at about 145cdm2.
Monitor was @96Hz. 99.5% sRGB Gamut coverage.











Over the time the room was not completely dark, had to turn of the lights a few time on and off. I think it will be even better when doing a Massive one tonight.








I will also set the Color temperature to "As measured".

Here's the profile:

2014-02-1419.47D65002.2M-SLabLUT-96Hz.icm.zip 425k .zip file


----------



## Jetlitheone

Damn you guys make me wanna buy a colorimeter lol


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Damn you guys make me wanna buy a colorimeter lol


A purchase you won't regret. Congrats.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

I haven't been following this thread for a few days so just a quick question, has anyone had success with this monitor since it's been on sale http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT? They didn't cheap out and start sending B grade panels since they dropped the price did they? I'm gonna pick one up right away if it's all go.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I haven't been following this thread for a few days so just a quick question, has anyone had success with this monitor since it's been on sale http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT? They didn't cheap out and start sending B grade panels since they dropped the price did they? I'm gonna pick one up right away if it's all go.


not sure. That seller is good. Just don't get the qnix SE version


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Alright well I went ahead and ordered one. If it turns out to be good and the sale is still going on I'll probably order two more.


----------



## Jetlitheone

So only weird thing is theres some very very faint lines (only on grey colors) that pop up when I overclock. (It's image retention)

Could be gamma shift cause on 60hz its perfectly fine and it doesn't bother me but I like finding stuff wrong







lmao

Oh and screen burn... well thats new for me 

never had that with any other qnix ... hmmm wonder what is causing it.

Well this monitor surely is different, running 120hz on automatic timings right now and seeing if that helps (honestly cant believe its even working on automatic)

Then I'll tweak settings if anything.


----------



## BigDoug

Yup I get this too

See: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12560#post_21630180


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigDoug*
> 
> Yup I get this too
> 
> See: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12560#post_21630180


Thanks a lot









Reduced my timings and seeing how that goes


----------



## SeanEboy

I wish we had a gathering of knowledge somewhere, like they do for batch numbers with CPUs.. Then we could get a better idea of who is shipping out the best quality monitors. Like a grading system, and kept a database of: Seller name, Item name, Perfect Pixel or not, How many dead pixels, extent of backlight bleed, etc...

I don't know who to buy from, do I just spin the globe and point? Or what? Is it like binning chips? Just keep tearing through them until you find a keeper? I'm about to buy two of these, and would like a little better direction, than simply russian roulette.... Any thoughts on that?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Just did another profile with dispcal. Now the Profile type was set to L*a*b LUT and to a "Default testchart for LUT". Brightness was at about 145cdm2.
> Monitor was @96Hz. 99.5% sRGB Gamut coverage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Over the time the room was not completely dark, had to turn of the lights a few time on and off. I think it will be even better when doing a Massive one tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will also set the Color temperature to "As measured".
> 
> Here's the profile:
> 
> 2014-02-1419.47D65002.2M-SLabLUT-96Hz.icm.zip 425k .zip file


Hammel how long does it take to calibrate using Default testchart for LUT dispcalGUI...i need to make a 96hz dispcalGUI ICC as Color Sustainer untill yasamoka updates it wont load my datacolor profiles or my basic color ICC profiles so i am using your 96hz ICC lol...
I really should make my own seeing as i own a color calibrator...but.i never use 96hz i only stay at 120hz 24/7 ...however i just love Color Sustainer and its all i use to handle my ICC profiles now...also i just love the way it switches to my 96hz ICC or my 120hz ICC on the fly if i do change resolutions so i want it using my own calibration lol...so how long did it take?


----------



## malmental

Totally dwarf's my 24" 1080p monitor next to it...
Seems I got lucky and NO DEAD PIXELS (knock on wood)..
Time to get a second one now..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131095618252?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS WQHD PC Monitor


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Are any of you guys buying a SquareTrade warranty or are they even worth getting? My Qnix is running absolutely great but having that piece of mind that comes with an extended warranty may be helpful, although I am usually the type that doesn't believe in those "extended" warranties and feels that they may be money thrown down the drain. I'm conflicted on this one right now. Also someone posted on here that you can get a discount code for the ST warranty that would bring the price gown to $30 from $53. Supposedly there's someone the works for SquareTrade and he posts on OCN and he's the one you need to contact for the discount code. Any truth to this?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas*
> 
> Are any of you guys buying a SquareTrade warranty or are they even worth getting? My Qnix is running absolutely great but having that piece of mind that comes with an extended warranty may be helpful, although I am usually the type that doesn't believe in those "extended" warranties and feels that they may be money thrown down the drain. I'm conflicted on this one right now. Also someone posted on here that you can get a discount code for the ST warranty that would bring the price gown to $30 from $53. Supposedly there's someone the works for SquareTrade and he posts on OCN and he's the one you need to contact for the discount code. Any truth to this?


Squaretrade is worth it!


----------



## Watagump

I don't buy extended warranties ever.


----------



## HOTDOGS

So, how do I get added to the list?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Bad luck brian I guess is me.

Get a Nexus 5... 3rd one has issues.

Get a korean monitor 3rd one has no issues but at 120hz I get image persistence. :[

womp.

any suggestions?


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Bad luck brian I guess is me.
> 
> Get a Nexus 5... 3rd one has issues.
> 
> Get a korean monitor 3rd one has no issues but at 120hz I get image persistence. :[
> 
> womp.
> 
> any suggestions?


Image persistence usually always happens at 120hz in alot of monitors.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Bad luck brian I guess is me.
> 
> Get a Nexus 5... 3rd one has issues.
> 
> Get a korean monitor 3rd one has no issues but at 120hz I get image persistence. :[
> 
> womp.
> 
> any suggestions?


Back to 60hz it should go away from what I have heard others post. I am glad right now I didn't go for one of the Korean. Even though there are more good then bad stories, you never remember the good lol.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Back to 60hz it should go away from what I have heard others post. I am glad right now I didn't go for one of the Korean. Even though there are more good then bad stories, you never remember the good lol.


Its image persistence anyway, its not permanent burn in.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Its image persistence anyway, its not permanent burn in.


I understand that, I just want to plug my monitor in and have it work. I don't mid tweaking things like my CPU etc, but my screen just needs to work. I am anal enough that I have to use DVI over DP cause of sleep issues.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Image persistence usually always happens at 120hz in alot of monitors.


Okay, I'll deal than, I can only see it on a grey background as in the windows 8 tile mode(that I never use)


----------



## renji1337

How does downsampling look on these monitors?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> How does downsampling look on these monitors?


Like AAx16 + MSAA + Edge AA all at the same time. Here is optimal settings. Some can only get 4K at 55hz. Mine can get [email protected] but games usually want 60hz.


----------



## itsZiz

* * * HELP PLEASE * * *

I have the Qnix and a 780 ti... when I use the CRU the max I can set it to is 80hz... any thing above that and the screen has 100% lines all over it.

If I changed it in the NVidia control panel "custom" window I could go up to 115mhz and I though I saw a difference with my mouse BUT with this test (http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping) it would show 66hz.

I'm using this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WA2NKY/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) DVI-D cable. I have a second monitor coming from my GPU's hdmi port...

ideas? thanks


----------



## bluedevil

Would a r9 270 4gb card do me any good at 1440p over my current hd7870?


----------



## lawson67

I have just come across a problem using Color Sustainer that i need to tell yasamoka about...it seems that Color Sustainer is NOT allowing any of my games apart from tomb radier 4 to use and i guess see my 120hz and 96hz profiles...i just played world of tanks and it was jammed at 60fps vsync on...this a few days ago was hitting 120fps with vsync on...so then i tried counter strike source bench test with vsync on and again 60fps a few days ago this was 120fps....then i started to think what have i changed in the last 2 days...the only thing i have done is started to use Color Sustainer...so i stopped and exited Color Sustainer...still 60fps every game...i rebooted with Color Sustainer disenabled in task manager and told not to load at windows in the Gui it self...still all games 60fps...then i deleted all Color Sustainer files....still the same 60fps every game,

At this point i did a roll back using an image i made of C drive using macirum reflect to the day i installed the monitor driver and reinstalled Nvidia experience...once back on the destop i loaded counterstrike source and did another bench test with Vsync on...120fps....i then loaded world of tanks.....vsync on 120fps...
At this pint i now turn off i now disable dispcalGUI profile loader and run the Color Sustainer.exe and load a profile....run counter trike source again....vsync on...60fps....world of tanks 60 fps...and i have now deleted all the Color Sustainer files and reset dispcalGUI profile loader to load my profiles again...but still now everything is 60 fps...its as if once i pushed the Color Sustainer.exe it has writen to the registory or something becarse even if i deleted all of Color Sustainer files i still can not get any game to see my 120hz resolutions again?....i am now going to have to reload my image again to when i first installed the Qnix Driver file and all my games could see my 120hz profiles....i hope yasamoka can work out what is happening because Color Sustainer is a fantastic bit of software


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsZiz*
> 
> * * * HELP PLEASE * * *
> 
> I have the Qnix and a 780 ti... when I use the CRU the max I can set it to is 80hz... any thing above that and the screen has 100% lines all over it.
> 
> If I changed it in the NVidia control panel "custom" window I could go up to 115mhz and I though I saw a difference with my mouse BUT with this test (http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping) it would show 66hz.
> 
> I'm using this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WA2NKY/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) DVI-D cable. I have a second monitor coming from my GPU's hdmi port...
> 
> ideas? thanks


Might not be able to overclock well honestly.

These monitors are getting "worse" every month it seems like.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsZiz*
> 
> * * * HELP PLEASE * * *
> 
> I have the Qnix and a 780 ti... when I use the CRU the max I can set it to is 80hz... any thing above that and the screen has 100% lines all over it.
> 
> If I changed it in the NVidia control panel "custom" window I could go up to 115mhz and I though I saw a difference with my mouse BUT with this test (http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping) it would show 66hz.
> 
> I'm using this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WA2NKY/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) DVI-D cable. I have a second monitor coming from my GPU's hdmi port...
> 
> ideas? thanks


Have you patched your driver files?...if you are using CRU delete custom resolutions in NVCP...for now Take the other monitor out....make sure you are using a duel link DVI-D cable


----------



## itsZiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Have you patched your driver files?...if you are using CRU delete custom resolutions in NVCP...for now Take the other monitor out....make sure you are using a duel link DVI-D cable


I have the newest drivers for windows and NVidia.

also, will 80hz make videos stutter? since its not a mult of 24


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I have just come across a problem using Color Sustainer that i need to tell yasamoka about...it seems that Color Sustainer is NOT allowing any of my games apart from tomb radier 4 to use and i guess see my 120hz and 96hz profiles...i just played world of tanks and it was jammed at 60fps vsync on...this a few days ago was hitting 120fps with vsync on...so then i tried counter strike source bench test with vsync on and again 60fps a few days ago this was 120fps....then i started to think what have i changed in the last 2 days...the only thing i have done is started to use Color Sustainer...so i stopped and exited Color Sustainer...still 60fps every game...i rebooted with Color Sustainer disenabled in task manager and told not to load at windows in the Gui it self...still all games 60fps...then i deleted all Color Sustainer files....still the same 60fps every game,
> 
> At this point i did a roll back using an image i made of C drive using macirum reflect to the day i installed the monitor driver and reinstalled Nvidia experience...once back on the destop i loaded counterstrike source and did another bench test with Vsync on...120fps....i then loaded world of tanks.....vsync on 120fps...
> At this pint i now turn off i now disable dispcalGUI profile loader and run the Color Sustainer.exe and load a profile....run counter trike source again....vsync on...60fps....world of tanks 60 fps...and i have now deleted all the Color Sustainer files and reset dispcalGUI profile loader to load my profiles again...but still now everything is 60 fps...its as if once i pushed the Color Sustainer.exe it has writen to the registory or something becarse even if i deleted all of Color Sustainer files i still can not get any game to see my 120hz resolutions again?....i am now going to have to reload my image again to when i first installed the Qnix Driver file and all my games could see my 120hz profiles....i hope yasamoka can work out what is happening because Color Sustainer is a fantastic bit of software


0% chance of Color Sustainer impacting your framerate or changing your refresh rate by itself. My bet is on something else.

The only file it writes to registry is for startup. If you disable startup inside the app, it will delete that registry file, leaving nothing in registry.

Games that ignore your color profiles (not override - major difference), no fix for them until Nvidia / AMD / Microsoft do something about it. But we need to know what those games are. Any other games you have where it works / doesn't work?

Seems like games are preferring the use of 60Hz. I use CRU since I'm on AMD, but I heard that it's better at prioritizing refresh rates in that regard. You might not even need a Qnix driver inf file to be installed. Also, Nvidia CP might report the custom resolutions wrongly, unlike CRU.

Do you have a profile for 60Hz? If not, use a pre-defined color tint for 60Hz. That will show you easily whether color profiles can be loaded in a particular game or not.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 0% chance of Color Sustainer impacting your framerate. My bet is on something else.


Yes i am sorry everything pointed to Color Sustainer as i described in my post...but now all strange things are happening...world of tanks updated....everythying 60fps...also on reboot everything 60fps....if i delete NVCP 120 custom resalution and create another one...120hz seen in games....reboot not seen...is it world of tanks update...or is it qnik monitor driver file only works with 120hz profile untill reboot...then it cant see use 120hz profiles...i may need to go back to CRU testing right now


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i am sorry everything pointed to Color Sustainer as i described in my post...but now all strange things are happening...world of tanks updated....everythying 60fps...also on reboot everything 60fps....if i delete NVCP 120 custom resalution and create another one...120hz seen in games....reboot not seen...is it world of tanks update...or is it qnik monitor driver file only works with 120hz profile untill reboot...then it cant see use 120hz profiles...i may need to go back to CRU testing right now


Lawson.

I'll test my system later tonight. I have the Qnix monitor driver in and I have not installed color sustainer yet.

I'll let you know what I find.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Lawson.
> 
> I'll test my system later tonight. I have the Qnix monitor driver in and I have not installed color sustainer yet.
> 
> I'll let you know what I find.


Yes thank you Osteoman i would be gratfull for that....its very late here in the UK like 04.30am but i am still going at it LOL...ok for me it now appears that once i set my custom resolution in NVCP my games only see 120hz untill reboot ...then games can not see it anymore unless i delete and recreate custom resolution again...then it can be seen and used by games untill next reboot...and so on and so forth...so i have now re-used CRU but this time i have Imported the blank-extension.dat and i everything seems to be working fine now...also importing the blank-extension.dat when i create the my 120hz resolution in CRU it appears to allow Nvidia experience to also works as ToastyX had advised me to do which is marvellous....also upon several reboots games are seeing my 120hz profile now at last thank goodness..download this Osteoman i believe you maybe needing it soon.

Btw: I have also left the Qnix monitor in place...however i am now using CRU again but this time when you make your Custom resolution in CRU import the blank-extension.dat and i can confirm that Nvidia experience works and my 120hz profile can be seen on every single reboot!

I have to say a big sorry to yasamoka for believing and thinking the problem was coming from Color Sustainer...however if he or you re-reads what i wrote i think anyone would of put it down to that at the time...however i can confirm Color Sustainer was NOT causing any conflicts at all!

blank-extension.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes thank you Osteoman i would be gratfull for that....its very late here in the UK like 04.30am but i am still going at it LOL...ok for me it now appears that once i set my custom resolution in NVCP my games only see 120hz untill reboot ...then games can not see it anymore unless i delete and recreate custom resolution again...then it can be seen and used by games untill next reboot...and so on and so forth...so i have now re-used CRU but this time i have Imported the blank-extension.dat and i everything seems to be working fine now...also importing the blank-extension.dat when i create the my 120hz resolution in CRU it appears to allow Nvidia experience to also works as ToastyX had advised me to do which is marvellous....also upon several reboots games are seeing my 120hz profile now at last thank goodness..download this Osteoman i believe you maybe needing it soon.
> 
> blank-extension.zip 0k .zip file


Will do although I havn't looked at the details of how to import it.

I'll do some tests here in a bit. It's before 11 pm here and I'll post something that you will find later this am when you get up.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Will do although I havn't looked at the details of how to import it.
> 
> I'll do some tests here in a bit. It's before 11 pm here and I'll post something that you will find later this am when you get up.


IN CRU there is a check box called "*include extension block*" put a tick in that and import the blank-extension.dat....then add your custom resalution and timings....if you do it in that order i can confirm that Nvidia experience also works....i am off to bed now goodnight.....BTW i can also confirm my girlfriend hates me even more now...she says i spend more time tending to my computer than her....ill go wake her up now and tell her she has my full attention..its only 5.00am here now lmao


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> IN CRU there is a check box called "*include extension block*" put a tick in that and import the blank-extension.dat....then add your custom resalution and timings....if you do it in that order i can confirm that Nvidia experience also works....i am off to bed now goodnight.....BTW i can also confirm my girlfriend hates me even more now...she says i spend more time tending to my computer than her....ill go wake her up now and tell her she has my full attention..its only 5.00am here now lmao


lol my girlfriend says the same.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> IN CRU there is a check box called "*include extension block*" put a tick in that and import the blank-extension.dat....then add your custom resalution and timings....if you do it in that order i can confirm that Nvidia experience also works....i am off to bed now goodnight.....BTW i can also confirm my girlfriend hates me even more now...she says i spend more time tending to my computer than her....ill go wake her up now and tell her she has my full attention..its only 5.00am here now lmao


Better take care of the girlfriend what with Valentine's day and all.









Okay I ran multiple games, although my CS:Source isn't up to date so I won't be able to try that till tomorrow after updating it. I did run the new Counterstike GO though as well as multiple other games and I am hitting 120 FPS in all of them both before and after reboot.

My system still is using the NVCP for the OC and CRU is not being used. Geforce Experience still working as are the color profiles in all games that I have tried. The one possible exception to this is Company of Heroes 2 which does seem to get darker but when I flip back to 60hz, it looks dark too so maybe it's just dark.

In short I am not able to reproduce the fps reducing back to 60 after reboot.

I have not installed Color Sustainer. I'm not saying that is the cause at all, just wanted you to know.

I'll run CS Source tomorrow and see what it does. I don't have World of Tanks.

Let me know and I'll test it however but I'm tempted to not mess with it since it's working well.

I like the easiest solution that achieves the goal the best, with the least programs running as possible.


----------



## hammelgammler

Just got my 4 dvi cable...
Some mm longer as the stock one but far thicker...
With every cable i get artefacts at 493MHz pixel clock. With the CSL 1.5m cable i got the same results and with a CSL 1m cable a bit lower pixel clock.
Could it be that my GPU is limiting the pixel clock? Tested 9 cables so far, every cable 1.5m or shorter. Or can the Monitor itself not a higher pixel clock?


----------



## renji1337

70hz 3840x2160 minor color defects top right side

68hz without color defects works aswell at 3840x2160 working on my monitor lol

btw what colorimeter should i buy/anyone have one to rent? if so ill make a post in the fs/trade section

I may run 3840x2160 68hz for my MMO's


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> btw what colorimeter should i buy/anyone have one to rent? if so ill make a post in the fs/trade section


It has already been asked 2 times in the previous few pages.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Better take care of the girlfriend what with Valentine's day and all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay I ran multiple games, although my CS:Source isn't up to date so I won't be able to try that till tomorrow after updating it. I did run the new Counterstike GO though as well as multiple other games and I am hitting 120 FPS in all of them both before and after reboot.
> 
> My system still is using the NVCP for the OC and CRU is not being used. Geforce Experience still working as are the color profiles in all games that I have tried. The one possible exception to this is Company of Heroes 2 which does seem to get darker but when I flip back to 60hz, it looks dark too so maybe it's just dark.
> 
> In short I am not able to reproduce the fps reducing back to 60 after reboot.
> 
> I have not installed Color Sustainer. I'm not saying that is the cause at all, just wanted you to know.
> 
> I'll run CS Source tomorrow and see what it does. I don't have World of Tanks.
> 
> Let me know and I'll test it however but I'm tempted to not mess with it since it's working well.
> 
> I like the easiest solution that achieves the goal the best, with the least programs running as possible.


Thanks for testing for me Osteoman but everything my end seems to be ok now...however i am now using CRU again purely because i did have problems and that i can now using the extension block use Nvidia experience again...i really could not pin down what was going on..after hours of testing i could not pin it down to one application or a process....quite strange indeed...even this morning i got up and did a test with Counterstrike source and 120fps...then an hour later 60fps again???...i had not installed any thing or made any changes..

I have been having on boot up a USB disconnect ding which i have sorted out by ripping all USB out until i found out which one was courseing it....it was my webcam/mic all in one...i swaped them into another USB port...now the disconect sound on boot up has gone...i mean i was clutching at straws to try to work out what has been going on...also at one point i rebooted and windows reloaded at 60hz even though when i shut down it was at 120hz....so i just changed it....but i now can simply not get this strange not seeing my 120hz to happen again...maybe i have fixed it...maybe it was the USB disconnect...i dont know?....but what i do know is that its seems all fine now....


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It has already been asked 2 times in the previous few pages.


All i can see is people arguing about if a spyder4 or colormunki is better. I want to know whats best for the buck, and what do i need. I want to calibrate 75hz,85hz, and 130hz on my qnix and 144/120 on my vg248qe


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> All i can see is people arguing about if a spyder4 or colormunki is better. I want to know whats best for the buck, and what do i need. I want to calibrate 75hz,85hz, and 130hz on my qnix and 144/120 on my vg248qe


At least three of those posts discuss facts about which sensors are better and at which pricepoints.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> At least three of those posts discuss facts about which sensors are better and at which pricepoints.


cant seem to find those ones then -_-

edit found em


----------



## basill

I received a QX2710 from accessorieswhole yesterday and it too suffers from bad horizontal banding on the entire right side with light bleeding in the upper right corner.


http://imgur.com/riYFCYI


No dead pixels though... This is incredibly frustrating because I had previously ordered the SE model only to discover posts pointing out to banding issue.

I immediately contacted the seller.
Quote:


> Dear accessorieswhole,
> 
> I have read numerous reports on forum that this model has horizontal white lines and many arrive defective. Are you able to test before shipping to ensure this is not an issue? If it is normal for the SE I will have to cancel my order and get the Non-SE model instead, and pay the difference.
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks for contacting us.
> Horizonal line is a kind of backlight bleeding.
> It is normal for SE monitor.
> Do you want to change your order to non-SE monitor?
> The price difference is US $30.
> 
> We will wait for your response.
> Thank you.
> 
> - accessorieswhole


So I send him the extra $30 via paypal for the non-SE model and the order ships out a few hours later. When I receive the monitor it happens to have the exact same issues people are reporting with the SE model.

I sent this message yesterday, but have not yet received a reply.
Quote:


> Dear accessorieswhole,
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I received the monitor today and it suffers from the horizontal banding. It's very prominent on the entire right side. Is it possible that the SE model was shipped by mistake?
> 
> Thanks


For those that ordered the SE model, was it noted as SE on the back of the monitor or on the packaging?


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks for testing for me Osteoman but everything my end seems to be ok now...however i am now using CRU again purely because i did have problems and that i can now using the extension block use Nvidia experience again...i really could not pin down what was going on..after hours of testing i could not pin it down to one application or a process....quite strange indeed...even this morning i got up and did a test with Counterstrike source and 120fps...then an hour later 60fps again???...i had not installed any thing or made any changes..
> 
> I have been having on boot up a USB disconnect ding which i have sorted out by ripping all USB out until i found out which one was courseing it....it was my webcam/mic all in one...i swaped them into another USB port...now the disconnect sound on boot up has gone...i mean i was clutching at straws to try to work out what has been going on...also at one point i rebooted and windows reloaded at 60hz even though when i shut down it was at 120hz....so i just changed it....but i now can simply not get this strange not seeing my 120hz to happen again...maybe i have fixed it...maybe it was the USB disconnect...i dont know?....but what i do know is that its seems all fine now....


Gremlins definitely Gremlins. Well I'm glad it's working correctly now. This also proves that we have two ways to accomplish the goal though so that's good news. If one of the patches breaks something, we have an instant work around. I did try Counterstrike Source bench this morning and it also stayed pegged at 120fps.









I'm considering buying a new DVI cable from Monoprice. 3ft, 24 AWG to see if it may minimze the uniformity issue with the darkness in the upper right. I'm just using the one they sent me with the monitor right now. It's probbaly only 3 ft too but it's not 24 AWG.

I don't guess they have gotten back with you with a price for the board?


----------



## Robbie G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> Totally dwarf's my 24" 1080p monitor next to it...


Not really...


----------



## DzillaXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robbie G*
> 
> Not really...


In Resolution it does.

1080p Feels so cramped.


----------



## Jokah

Need some help guys.

I'm not sure what I changed or when this started happening but my reference R9 290 is idling at 80°c. I got the monitor about a week ago and overclocked to 96Hz. I know when I initially did this overclock there was no issue and was idling at about 55°c. This is happening at the default Auto fan setting. Yes I can set my own fan profile but it still doesn't deal with the root issue which is that my card won't go to it's 2D clock mode.

There are no other programs running, no browsers running and no other monitors attached. I have reset my monitor to it's default settings in CRU but still the problem persists. What is strange is that if I activate overdrive in Catalyst it starts behaving as it should.

I was initially using afterburner but I have fully removed that and I am still idling at 80°c when monitored in Catalyst.

For whatever reason something is preventing the card from down clocking but can't figure out what. Any ideas? I'm sure I saw something in this thread about overclocked monitors preventing down clock but I couldn't find the info and this is happening when it isn't overclocked.


----------



## shw89

I have successfully overclocked my monitor before, but now its not showing up 120hz in the ufotest/blurbuster test. In my nvidia settings I have 120hz and 32bit enabled.. Any suggestions? Ive used the patcher, and cru.. It just says 60hz









I have a gigabyte 760 4gd and X-Star Monitor.


----------



## renji1337

This monoprice cable is so thick. will it put enough stress on the monitors dvi port and break it?


----------



## Jokah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokah*
> 
> Need some help guys.
> 
> I'm not sure what I changed or when this started happening but my reference R9 290 is idling at 80°c. I got the monitor about a week ago and overclocked to 96Hz. I know when I initially did this overclock there was no issue and was idling at about 55°c. This is happening at the default Auto fan setting. Yes I can set my own fan profile but it still doesn't deal with the root issue which is that my card won't go to it's 2D clock mode.
> 
> There are no other programs running, no browsers running and no other monitors attached. I have reset my monitor to it's default settings in CRU but still the problem persists. What is strange is that if I activate overdrive in Catalyst it starts behaving as it should.
> 
> I was initially using afterburner but I have fully removed that and I am still idling at 80°c when monitored in Catalyst.
> 
> For whatever reason something is preventing the card from down clocking but can't figure out what. Any ideas? I'm sure I saw something in this thread about overclocked monitors preventing down clock but I couldn't find the info and this is happening when it isn't overclocked.


It appears I have sorted it. I ran the "reset-all" program for CRU and all seems to be well now. Re-overclocked to 96Hz and it is behaving it's self at the moment. I'll have to keep my eye on it I guess.


----------



## WhineTraube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokah*
> 
> Need some help guys.
> 
> I'm not sure what I changed or when this started happening but my reference R9 290 is idling at 80°c. I got the monitor about a week ago and overclocked to 96Hz. I know when I initially did this overclock there was no issue and was idling at about 55°c. This is happening at the default Auto fan setting. Yes I can set my own fan profile but it still doesn't deal with the root issue which is that my card won't go to it's 2D clock mode.
> 
> There are no other programs running, no browsers running and no other monitors attached. I have reset my monitor to it's default settings in CRU but still the problem persists. What is strange is that if I activate overdrive in Catalyst it starts behaving as it should.
> 
> I was initially using afterburner but I have fully removed that and I am still idling at 80°c when monitored in Catalyst.
> 
> For whatever reason something is preventing the card from down clocking but can't figure out what. Any ideas? I'm sure I saw something in this thread about overclocked monitors preventing down clock but I couldn't find the info and this is happening when it isn't overclocked.


This is caused by the use of a custom refresh rate. Apparently your GPU wont clock down, if you run at a frequenzy other than 60 Hz or if you connect a second monitor.

In my case i solved the problem by using 60 Hz on the desktop, so my 7970 will clock down to 300/150 MHz. If i play games like CS:Go or Dota2 i can put -refresh 96 in the launch options of the game to achieve the 96 Hz ingame.

In your case your card should again clock down if you set your refresh rate to 60 Hz on the desktop. If you want to run a higher refresh rate you will have to clock down manually with MSI Afterburner or AMD Overdrive in the CCC.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhineTraube*
> 
> This is caused by the use of a custom refresh rate. Apparently your GPU wont clock down, if you run at a frequenzy other than 60 Hz or if you connect a second monitor.
> 
> In my case i solved the problem by using 60 Hz on the desktop, so my 7970 will clock down to 300/150 MHz. If i play games like CS:Go or Dota2 i can put -refresh 96 in the launch options of the game to achieve the 96 Hz ingame.
> 
> In your case your card should again clock down if you set your refresh rate to 60 Hz on the desktop. If you want to run a higher refresh rate you will have to clock down manually with MSI Afterburner or AMD Overdrive in the CCC.


My monitor runs at 120hz 24/7 and and my gtx660,s in sli always clock down and work as intended....having your monitor set over 60hz should not ramp your GPU up so it does not down Clock.....unless there is something going on with AMD cards that i don't know?


----------



## Jokah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhineTraube*
> 
> This is caused by the use of a custom refresh rate. Apparently your GPU wont clock down, if you run at a frequenzy other than 60 Hz or if you connect a second monitor.
> 
> In my case i solved the problem by using 60 Hz on the desktop, so my 7970 will clock down to 300/150 MHz. If i play games like CS:Go or Dota2 i can put -refresh 96 in the launch options of the game to achieve the 96 Hz ingame.
> 
> In your case your card should again clock down if you set your refresh rate to 60 Hz on the desktop. If you want to run a higher refresh rate you will have to clock down manually with MSI Afterburner or AMD Overdrive in the CCC.


As I explained I had tried going back to default but the problem persisted. I have now fixed my problem by running the "reset-all" program for CRU. Thanks for your reply though.

Looking back I think the problem may have started when I connected the second monitor. All I know is that disabling it didn't help. Since my reset I am yet to see what happens when I reactivate it.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> I have successfully overclocked my monitor before, but now its not showing up 120hz in the ufotest/blurbuster test. In my nvidia settings I have 120hz and 32bit enabled.. Any suggestions? Ive used the patcher, and cru.. It just says 60hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a gigabyte 760 4gd and X-Star Monitor.


If you are using CRU have you uninstalled Nvidia experience?.... or have you used and imported the blank-extension.dat into CRU if you have NOT uninstalled Nvidia experience ?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> My monitor runs at 120hz 24/7 and and my gtx660,s in sli always clock down and work as intended....having your monitor set over 60hz should not ramp your GPU up so it does not down Clock.....unless there is something going on with AMD cards that i don't know?


I have made several comments regarding this in past posts. Basically with custom timings it can cause for some cards memory to not be able to clock down. This causes the card to stay in the highest 3D power state. There are ways to get around it mainly slightly increasing your timings AFTER optimizing and see at what point the GPU idles down and then decide if the few degrees in reduced GPU temp is worht the extra side effects that come from the higher pixel clock.

You guys can search "power state" to find past posts on this. It can also happen with any card(AMD or nvidia). You can check by checking your idle GPU voltage between 60hz and overclocked. I know many people were seeing this but there are a few (including yourself) that don't seem to have any issues. Being in SLI seems to make a difference as well (at least it did for me).


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I have made several comments regarding this in past posts. Basically with custom timings it can cause for some cards memory to not be able to clock down. This causes the card to stay in the highest 3D power state. There are ways to get around it mainly slightly increasing your timings AFTER optimizing and see at what point the GPU idles down and then decide if the few degrees in reduced GPU temp is worht the extra side effects that come from the higher pixel clock.
> 
> You guys can search "power state" to find past posts on this. It can also happen with any card(AMD or nvidia). You can check by checking your idle GPU voltage between 60hz and overclocked. I know many people were seeing this but there are a few (including yourself) that don't seem to have any issues. Being in SLI seems to make a difference as well (at least it did for me).


Oh thanks for the information spartan i did not know this...luckily i have not encountered this problem


----------



## shw89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> If you are using CRU have you uninstalled Nvidia experience?.... or have you used and imported the blank-extension.dat into CRU if you have NOT uninstalled Nvidia experience ?


Oh I did have experience installed. Will uninstall and check it out. Thank you.


----------



## hammelgammler

Dafuq? I was pretty shure i got a stable pixel clock of 116 (480MHz) with stock cable. Now after switching many cables i will get some minor artefacts even at 460MHz...
With every cable im not able to get 460MHz without small artefacts... With that CSL cable (which i returned) i was shure that i got 488MHz stable without artefacts...
Anyone knows what the problem could be?... I dont know whats going on there...
I ordered another 4 times 1m dvi cable and 3 times 1.5m.
Even noted it down what the limit pixel clock of every cable was. Very weird...


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *basill*
> 
> I received a QX2710 from accessorieswhole yesterday and it too suffers from bad horizontal banding on the entire right side with light bleeding in the upper right corner.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/riYFCYI
> 
> 
> No dead pixels though... This is incredibly frustrating because I had previously ordered the SE model only to discover posts pointing out to banding issue.
> 
> I immediately contacted the seller.
> So I send him the extra $30 via paypal for the non-SE model and the order ships out a few hours later. When I receive the monitor it happens to have the exact same issues people are reporting with the SE model.
> 
> I sent this message yesterday, but have not yet received a reply.
> For those that ordered the SE model, was it noted as SE on the back of the monitor or on the packaging?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> IN CRU there is a check box called "*include extension block*" put a tick in that and import the blank-extension.dat....then add your custom resalution and timings....if you do it in that order i can confirm that Nvidia experience also works....i am off to bed now goodnight.....BTW i can also confirm my girlfriend hates me even more now...she says i spend more time tending to my computer than her....ill go wake her up now and tell her she has my full attention..its only 5.00am here now lmao


lol my girlfriend says the same.

Yep the monitor will say SE on the back


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shw89*
> 
> Oh I did have experience installed. Will uninstall and check it out. Thank you.


If you read the first post in this thread it will explane from the creator of CRU "ToastyX" what you need to do if you are Nvidia user as regards Nvidia experience

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## Jetlitheone

So upon looking at the monitor again it seems theres a patch of yellow on the bottom towards the center kind of..

Any ideas?


----------



## basill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Yep the monitor will say SE on the back


Cool, thanks Jetlitheone. No SE marked on the back of mine... I suppose it's just incredibly bad luck that I specifically ask about the banding, make an effort to avoid it, and up up with it. Your replacement is a non-SE from accessorieswhole, correct?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *basill*
> 
> Cool, thanks Jetlitheone. No SE marked on the back of mine... I suppose it's just incredibly bad luck that I specifically ask about the banding, make an effort to avoid it, and up up with it. Your replacement is a non-SE from accessorieswhole, correct?


Yep, never buying from him again.


----------



## malmental

I must have gotten really lucky then...
I have the SE model and bought this exact one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131095618252
(accessorieswhole)

And it's absolutely flawless..
No dead pixels, no back-lighting (bleeding).
Clocked it to 96Hz out the box and gonna tweak it more later today.


----------



## Nomisus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *basill*
> 
> For those that ordered the SE model, was it noted as SE on the back of the monitor or on the packaging?


I got the SE model and don't notice any horizontal lines on mine fortunately. Anyways, there was a big round sticker on the box of the monitor that says SE on it when I got mine.


----------



## basill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I must have gotten really lucky then...
> I have the SE model and bought this exact one.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131095618252
> (accessorieswhole)
> 
> And it's absolutely flawless..
> No dead pixels, no back-lighting (bleeding).
> Clocked it to 96Hz out the box and gonna tweak it more later today.


That's what I had originally on order. I basically gave the seller an extra $30 for absolutely no reason.
This monitor does clock to 120hz no problem, but the banding was there at 60hz right out of the box.


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *basill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I must have gotten really lucky then...
> I have the SE model and bought this exact one.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131095618252
> (accessorieswhole)
> 
> And it's absolutely flawless..
> No dead pixels, no back-lighting (bleeding).
> Clocked it to 96Hz out the box and gonna tweak it more later today.
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I had originally on order. I basically gave the seller an extra $30 for absolutely no reason.
> This monitor does clock to 120hz no problem, but the banding was there at 60hz right out of the box.
Click to expand...

I was saying to be exact was I set it to 96Hz immediately before doing anything else..


----------



## Heligrin

Hey guys!

Been reading a lot about these monitors and decided to get an X star from dreamseller. Got it... no dead or stuck pixels and minimal blb, however, i did notice some of the horizontal banding on the right side of the screen that some have talked about. Is this a defect with the monitor that is fixable or something that can be fixed only with an rma. Also, is there a fix for a bezel that doesn't touch the screen entirely ( the screen is positioned properly with no cut off). Could i use the qnix driver with my x star? Any tips for over clocking because i have never done it with a monitor! My biggest concern is the banding with is very slight and only visible on all black


----------



## Cookybiscuit

So, something I've been thinking about. Why does everyone always jump to 96Hz? Why that refresh rate in particular? Is it something to do with the 24FPS of movies?

Why not 100Hz?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Can we make the concesus that most of these monitors have banding and such now and these arent worth the price anymore?

The earlier models were okay and some people are still getting them but these newer ones are just terrible and seem like B- quality if that.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Can we make the concesus that most of these monitors have banding and such now and these arent worth the price anymore?
> 
> The earlier models were okay and some people are still getting them but these newer ones are just terrible and seem like B- quality if that.


I would have a very hard time pulling the trigger on one, that's for sure. But you always remember the bad it seems.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Can we make the concesus that most of these monitors have banding and such now and these arent worth the price anymore?
> 
> The earlier models were okay and some people are still getting them but these newer ones are just terrible and seem like B- quality if that.


The SE versions are like b and b-, others are not(from what i've seen on here and hardforum)

Also, even if these monitors did not overclock. they are still worth the price.


----------



## Jetlitheone

I mean its not too bad, the yellow spot is just really weird to me, the image retention I can deal with otherwise the monitor is perfect.

Anyone have that before? Could it be a cable?

its like a yellow tint on the bottom middle.

Seen on light background only not dark so not light bleed.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Can we make the concesus that most of these monitors have banding and such now and these arent worth the price anymore?
> 
> The earlier models were okay and some people are still getting them but these newer ones are just terrible and seem like B- quality if that.


We should just make a consensus not to buy from AccessoriesWhole, as they seem to have the vast majority of major defects as of the last 2 weeks/month or so.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi it seems some people have that a lot worse than others..on mine it is only barely noticeable on full green background...but then you really have to look for it....optimizing your timings should help when set at 120hz...also a shorter DVI-D cable has been known to help some people as this technically should help give you a stronger signal....also debatable but a higher quality DVI-D cable could also help...try these optimized timings below and see if that helps...the pixel clock limit is 450mhz so the closer you can get to that the stronger the signal you will get....i find these timings below the nearest i can get to the 450mhz pixel clock which is 459mhz.....and there are not many people at who can get much lower than that.


oh... ok. so it's still a YMMV on the gamma color shifts even with custom CRU settings. that's a shame.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> I mean its not too bad, the yellow spot is just really weird to me, the image retention I can deal with otherwise the monitor is perfect.
> 
> Anyone have that before? Could it be a cable?
> 
> its like a yellow tint on the bottom middle.
> 
> Seen on light background only not dark so not light bleed.


Are you running overclocked?

Also, would i notice the effect of getting a colorometer vs the ICC profiles here>?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Are you running overclocked?
> 
> Also, would i notice the effect of getting a colorometer vs the ICC profiles here>?


yep but pretty sure its there when it isn't over clocked as well. It just appeared randomly kind of. Its a very slight tint kind of like sephia so I mean I can ignore it I was just confused. I've had defects like that on much more expensive monitors so I guess I'll deal lol


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Are you running overclocked?
> 
> Also, would i notice the effect of getting a colorometer vs the ICC profiles here>?


Depends how sensitive your eyes are to color and what you'll be doing with it


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> So, something I've been thinking about. Why does everyone always jump to 96Hz? Why that refresh rate in particular? Is it something to do with the 24FPS of movies?
> 
> Why not 100Hz?


Anyone know?


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Depends how sensitive your eyes are to color and what you'll be doing with it


Ill be doing gaming.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Ill be doing gaming.


nope you'll be fine with an ICC profile that's good such as Lawson's


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> oh... ok. so it's still a YMMV on the gamma color shifts even with custom CRU settings. that's a shame.


Why do I not have the Back Porch and Blanking settings in my NVCP when I try to create a custom resolution?


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Nevermind...figured it out. I gotta use Toastyx!


----------



## Kold

SquareTrade warranty worth it? Anyone have data on how often these fail? Thanks.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> SquareTrade warranty worth it? Anyone have data on how often these fail? Thanks.


Unless i missed something (being a member since day 1) there has only been 4 all out failed panels to date. Now this does not count panels with unacceptable defects (dead pixels, BLB etc) only panels that where good and then died later. If you address korean panels overall the failure rate is no different than any main stream panel. Meaning although they are lower classified panels (A, -A, B rated) they do NOT have a higher fail rate.

I have used squaretrade and recommend them


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Unless i missed something (being a member since day 1) there has only been 4 all out failed panels to date. Now this does not count panels with unacceptable defects (dead pixels, BLB etc) only panels that where good and then died later. If you address korean panels overall the failure rate is no different than any main stream panel. Meaning although they are lower classified panels (A, -A, B rated) they do NOT have a higher fail rate.
> 
> I have used squaretrade and recommend them


Thank you for the quick response. It's good to know that so few have had issues after arriving perfect. I may still purchase the warranty if I can find a discount.. just in case!









Also, anyone know where I can sample some 1440p videos? I tried youtube, but I only get gaming becnhmark results when I search.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Also, anyone know where I can sample some 1440p videos? I tried youtube, but I only get gaming becnhmark results when I search.


Just search "4k video" on YouTube. Select 4k because it will use less compression than 1440p regardless of your monitor size.

Here are a few:


----------



## Kold

Sweeet! +rep to both of you.

And I found a %30 off coupon for the SquareTrade warranty. I went ahead and purchased it. I plan on calling them Tuesday to clarify the warranty terms. Especially who I contact if it fails in 3 months or less than a year. The terms seemed to say I would be forced to deal with X-Star within the first year. If that is the case, I'm getting a refund.


----------



## voncreme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> If that last picture is the fixed one then I would have to say you have some pretty bad back light bleed TBH.
> 
> I would look at bending you monitor frame straight and using electrical tape to help as well.
> 
> My Monitor is totally Black on a Black screen, and only if I turn my brightness to the max can I barely see a slightly lighter area in the bottom middle of my screen above the x-star logo. You really have to look for it, As the bleed is less noticeable then the small part of light bleed on your last pic on the top left of the screen where it has a small amount of light bleed. Personally Feel a little lucky for getting such a nice panel.
> 
> Though I would imagine it looks pretty decent when it comes to actual use.


There is absolutely zero light bleed on my monitor. That visible "light bleed" is from the camera. Try looking at your screen through an iphone camera and you will experience the same effect. When my screen is on and on a black screen, it is very similar to how it looks when the monitor is shut off- a beautiful clear black void.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Sweeet! +rep to both of you.
> 
> And I found a %30 off coupon for the SquareTrade warranty. I went ahead and purchased it. I plan on calling them Tuesday to clarify the warranty terms. Especially who I contact if it fails in 3 months or less than a year. The terms seemed to say I would be forced to deal with X-Star within the first year. If that is the case, I'm getting a refund.


no you're fine I used a refund once within a month lol. Just be persistent


----------



## lawson67

Ok to Nvidia card owners....as well documented if anyone bothered to read ToastyX post when they grabed his CRU from his site ( and i know not many have read his notes and just grabbed CRU from his site due to some of the questions we have seen in this forum ) GeForce Experience is known to cause issues with EDID overrides such as resolutions being listed in the NVIDIA control panel but not in the Windows screen resolution settings....i have been getting this on and off randomly having used both methods to overclock and only with GeForce Experience installed...here are the methods to overclock,

Method 1: to overclock your monitor with a Nvidia card....use driver patch if you need to...if you are using SLI ( *you need to patch and you need to use the full patch* ) uninstall Nvida GeForce Experience and create your custom resolutions with CRU,

Method 2: same as above as regards the driver patch however Import the blank-extension.dat into CRU when making your custom resolutions which is hoped to enable you to keep GeForce Experience without it cause issues with EDID overrides,

Method 3: same as above as regards the driver patch however use the Qnix monitor driver and set your custom resolutions in NVCP...this method is also believed to enable you to keep Nvida GeForce Experience installed but some stubborn games may not see your custom resolutions without using CRU

I can confirm after trying all of the above methods that leaving Nvida GeForce Experience installed weather using the blank-extension.dat method or using the Qnix driver i have still found that about 70% of the time windows does indeed see your custom resolutions...however about 30% of the time regardless to which method you have used Nvidia GForce Experience *will* cause issues with EDID overrides with your resolutions being listed in the NVIDIA control panel but not in the Windows screen resolution settings...and if windows does not see your custom resolutions neither will your games...

Checking NVCP to see if your 120hz/96hz has loaded is also completely useless as it will always report that it has loaded even when Window resolution does NOT see it....IE.."NVCP" ..says 120hz....however you could find on random occasions that if you check windows resolutions it only has listed 60hz...so therefore you believe your 120hz or 96hz profile is loaded and working however in fact is has NOT...however you would never know this unless you had checked windows resolution advanced settings tab and seen only 60hz listed or you was playing a game with vsync enabled and only hitting 60FPS...

Most people i believe after a while of having there monitor overclocked and checked the first time around to make sure everything was working as intended and windows and there games could see there custom resolutions would never know that on curtain occasions there custom resolutions had infact *not* load into windows if they have Nvidia GForce Experience installed!

Right now i am testing weather NOT loading Nvidia GForce Experience at boot up will help...and only running it on demand to set up my games which is why i want to keep it installed anyhow....or weather to use Windows task scheduler and to set a delay to load Nvidia GForce Experience at boot will help at all...along with leaving ToastyX a message informing him of this problem...however right now i have no reason to believe that any other piece of software i have installed is conflicting with my custom resolutions...

It is as well documented that Nvidia GForce Experience being installed can course this very problem and all the work a rounds do help *but do not* cure this problem and i also believe that anyone using any of the work arounds and having Nvidia GForce Experience installed will be on occasions in complete ignorant bliss that on this particular windows session there custom resolutions have not loaded into windows resolutions regardless of what NVCP is showing them and so therfore there games are *not* seeing there custom resolutions also on these occasions.

Edit: BTW it is worth noting that i ran for well over a couple of months without any problems at all with windows not being able to see my custom resolutions when Nvidia GForce Experience was *not* installed!





*EDIT:* After talking with ToastyX the creator of CRU and the driver patches we all use it appears that i have cured my problems...going into CRU hitting the delete button at the top of CRU To reset back the display to default configuration...and then running the reset-all.exe....i have now been able to delete all the EDID overrides configurations and start over...i am now back to using the Qnix monitor driver and using NVCP to crate and set my custom resolutions with Nvidia experience installed....i also now seem to have my 120hz custom resolutions constantly being seen in windows resolutions again...

All of the above is something to bear in mind if you encounter problems and have moved from using CRU to using the Qnix monitor driver method along with creating your custom resolutions in NVCP method which i posted last week !

Many thanks to ToastyX for his help and support with my problem and his great software!... which without none of us would be able to overclock our monitors!

Working as intended again below


----------



## Jetlitheone

Also just saying , these monitors are great.

I may complain and such but thats just because I strive for perfection which you can't get ... ever lol.

Even my expensive Dell U2711 had issues.

The small tiny patch of a yellow hue on the bottom is very minor, and I have no dead pixels and BLB so what might bother me might not bother you.


----------



## kefan77

hi,

looking to upgrade to 1440p and have few questions that hopefully someone here can answer.

1, which brand to go for? Q-Nix, Yamakasi, X-Star, Monex or other?
2, is it worth paying for pixel perfect screens or should I just take the chance?
3, will my Xeon 1230v2 + 2SLI 2GB GTX670 OC cope with that resolution? I'm aware of VRAM.

I've settled for Matte Samsung PLS. If it can manage 60+Hz after OC, I'll be fine.

I'd really want it to be pixel perfect, but as above not sure if I should pay extra.

I would also like stand that's not too wobbly, but obviously that's not a deal breaker.

thanks


----------



## Watagump

Well the Monex do not overclock, so don't look for one of those. The whole pixel perfect thing varies. Some do guarantee 0 but they are closer to $400. Most people get the Qnix, you should be fine with SLI, depends highly on games of course. I wouldn't get the 0 with the extra cost personally.


----------



## Osteoman

Nice explanation for the group Lawson. I just wish your explanation was on the front page.









Rep.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Nice explanation for the group Lawson. I just wish your explanation was on the front page.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rep.


Yes thank you Osteoman there have been so many things i would like to have posted in the OP!..i believe it could greatly benefit from an update!.. which would help many new members out with problems like the one i have just encountered...and also my bent frame guide in the OP would be nice and could help many people out...also i believe it would stop many people having to ask the same questions over and over and over again with these posts being lost in this near 1400 page thread!....and with the search facility being far from perfect!


----------



## exzacklyright

Ask an admin to give you access


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes thank you Osteoman there have been so many things i would like to have posted in the OP!..i believe it could greatly benefit from an update!.. which would help many new members out with problems like the one i have just encountered...and also my bent frame guide in the OP would be nice and could help many people out...also i believe it would stop many people having to ask the same questions over and over and over again with these posts being lost in this near 1400 page thread!....and with the search facility being far from perfect!


I concur. I'm thinking about working on my minimal black light bleed at some point and I was worried that when the time comes I won't be able to find your guide. Lol

Still thinking about whether it's worth it, on mine it's very minimal really.


----------



## hammelgammler

Does anyone know if the Qnix is a White LED LCD Monitor?
Dont know which option to choose at dispcal... LCD (generic) or LCD (White LED)?
What means generic?
Thanks.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Qnix is a White LED LCD Monitor?
> Dont know which option to choose at dispcal... LCD (generic) or LCD (White LED)?
> What means generic?
> Thanks.


The Qnix once striped down has white LED lights....so therefore the Qnix is a White LED LCD Monitor and this is what you need to set when calibrating... i am sure that's why your asking hammel









What means generic?

It means its an LCD screen but you dont know what the back lights it uses white LED or CCFL


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I concur. I'm thinking about working on my minimal black light bleed at some point and I was worried that when the time comes I won't be able to find your guide. Lol
> 
> Still thinking about whether it's worth it, on mine it's very minimal really.


Well its up to you it is in fact a very easy job to do ...however there is always that risk...i would be more than happy if needed to rip one apart and fix the most minor of BLB that's because i have stripped one down and repaired one with really bad BLB and it was an easy job...also i do not believe unless i had some really bad luck like there was suddenly an earthquake ( and we don't get earthquakes in the UK )that i would damage it doing it....but its up to you ...me personally after doing one already if i ordered a new one it would be the first thing i would do!...but as i said i have done it before...and i get OCD if things are not dead right lol...and i would be constantly looking for it...but that's me and yours is very minor!...and maybe your not the kind of person that would keep looking for it!...and it is not worth any kind of risk!...its up to you









BTW i bookmarked my guide its a few posts i made on this page

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The Qnix once striped down has white LED lights....so therefore the Qnix is a White LED LCD Monitor and this is what you need to set when calibrating... i am sure that's why your asking hammel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What means generic?
> 
> It means its an LCD screen but you dont know what the back lights it uses white LED or CCFL


Well okay... I always set it to LCD generic... Dont know if its a huge difference in calibrating but i will for shure calibrate a dozen times with White LED settings.








Maybe cause of that my deltaE maximum was everytime a bit high...


----------



## Heligrin

Hey guys,

Quick question. I am using the QNIX driver + NVCP to set my custom resolution, however, when i go to UFO test the max refresh that is obtained is always 96 hz, even though i can load 120? Am i doing something wrong or is that the limit of my monitor?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heligrin*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Quick question. I am using the QNIX driver + NVCP to set my custom resolution, however, when i go to UFO test the max refresh that is obtained is always 96 hz, even though i can load 120? Am i doing something wrong or is that the limit of my monitor?


Have you patched your drivers?...if you want over 96hz i think you need too









Also make sure you have your 120hz profile loaded at the time you use the UFO test page


----------



## hammelgammler

Ah and another question. Do you prefer "Black point compensation" enabled or disabled?
Just to make shure i set everything right this time. Will doing a slow - massive L*a*b (maybe curves + matrix) LUT profile in a few hours.


----------



## Heligrin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Have you patched your drivers?...if you want over 96hz i think you need too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also make sure you have your 120hz profile loaded at the time you use the UFO test page


I used the nvidia pixel clock patcher (1.2.5) (i have an nvidia gtx 570). I set the custom resolution with 120 hz and apply. Go to UFO test and it still says 96. If i set anything lower than 96 UFO test will reflect that. I feel like im doing something wrong, lol..

Thanks


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Well its up to you it is in fact a very easy job to do ...however there is always that risk...i would be more than happy if needed to rip one apart and fix the most minor of BLB that's because i have stripped one down and repaired one with really bad BLB and it was an easy job...also i do not believe unless i had some really bad luck like there was suddenly an earthquake ( and we don't get earthquakes in the UK )that i would damage it doing it....but its up to you ...me personally after doing one already if i ordered a new one it would be the first thing i would do!...but as i said i have done it before...and i get OCD if things are not dead right lol...and i would be constantly looking for it...but that's me and yours is very minor!...and maybe your not the kind of person that would keep looking for it!...and it is not worth any kind of risk!...its up to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW i bookmarked my guide its a few posts i made on this page
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


Well I have to admit my eye gets drawn to it like a magnet, although it's impossible to see on anything other then a completely black screen and I don't watch movies on my computer. I do build my computers from scratch so I'm not afraid to dig right it in. I have a feeling on my first free day I'm going to be trying it. I'm also going to order a new DVI cable to see if I can improve the uniformity some.

It would be nice not to have OCD, but I doubt that applies to any of us on this thread that are trying to squeeze as much out of our hardware as humanly possible.









Thanks for posting the bookmark, I have now saved it to my desktop lol.


----------



## rjeftw

Just ordered a X-Star from dream-seller on ebay! Can't wait for it to arrive.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Well I have to admit my eye gets drawn to it like a magnet, although it's impossible to see on anything other then a completely black screen and I don't watch movies on my computer. I do build my computers from scratch so I'm not afraid to dig right it in. I have a feeling on my first free day I'm going to be trying it. I'm also going to order a new DVI cable to see if I can improve the uniformity some.
> 
> It would be nice not to have OCD, but I doubt that applies to any of us on this thread that are trying to squeeze as much out of our hardware as humanly possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting the bookmark, I have now saved it to my desktop lol.


Yeah BLB is annoying lol I sadly dont have any but id trade my two inches on the bottom left of the monitor for BLB.

Anyone?

Also I have the other Qnix laying around the one with the lines... Paypal gave me the money and I got to keep it.

Maybe use it for parts? Lol


----------



## Jetlitheone

Anyone have a Squaretrade coupon?

Thanks!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Ah and another question. Do you prefer "Black point compensation" enabled or disabled?
> Just to make shure i set everything right this time. Will doing a slow - massive L*a*b (maybe curves + matrix) LUT profile in a few hours.


No i do not believe you need to set Black point compensation and if i remember right when i did my last calibration with dispcalGUI i did not use it!...also we are not getting black crush so there's no point in enabling it!...however after downloading the new version that came out a few days ago i notice that in the advanced setting it is enabled as default?..i am sure this was not the case with the older version?....i always use white and black point compensation though...and i also believe that dispcalGUI produces the best calibrations for an overclocked monitor...my whites and blacks look so much better at 120hz then with any calibration from datacolor and even basICColor display 5...my whites and blacks from dispcalGUI profiles look exactly the same to me as when my monitor is at 60hz and i can not tell the difference between my colors also between my 60hz screen and 120hz screen using dispcalGUI ..

If you are going to do a *slow* massive L*a*b LUT profile i believe you will be looking at yet another as you had last time 17.5 hour calibration lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heligrin*
> 
> I used the nvidia pixel clock patcher (1.2.5) (i have an nvidia gtx 570). I set the custom resolution with 120 hz and apply. Go to UFO test and it still says 96. If i set anything lower than 96 UFO test will reflect that. I feel like im doing something wrong, lol..
> 
> Thanks


Can you post a screen shot of your 120hz profile please.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Yeah BLB is annoying lol I sadly dont have any but id trade my two inches on the bottom left of the monitor for BLB.
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> Also I have the other Qnix laying around the one with the lines... Paypal gave me the money and I got to keep it.
> 
> Maybe use it for parts? Lol


I know what i would do with that spare Qnix you have sitting around....i would rip the PCB Board out of it and buy a glossy Monex and put the Qnix PCB Board in it and overclock it and either sell it or keep it


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No i do not believe you need to set Black point compensation and if i remember right when i did my last calibration with dispcalGUI i did not use it!...however after downloading the new version that came out a few days ago i notice that in the advanced setting it is enabled as default?..i am sure this was not the case with the older version?....i always use white and black point compensation though...and i also believe that dispcalGUI produces the best calibrations for an overclocked monitor...my whites and blacks look so much better at 120hz then with any calibration from datacolor and even basICColor display 5...also if you are going to do a *slow* massive L*a*b LUT profile i believe you will be looking at yet another as you had last time 17.5 hour calibration lol
> Can you post a screen shot of your 120hz profile please.
> I know what i would do with that spare Qnix you have sitting around....i would rip the PCB Board out of it and buy a glossy Monex and put the Qnix PCB Board in it and overclock it and either sell it or keep it


Lol true. Maybe I'll keep it and do that in the future or something cause that would be a nice looking monitor


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Lol true. Maybe I'll keep it and do that in the future or something cause that would be a nice looking monitor


You got it...up there for thinking down there for dancing


----------



## Heligrin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No i do not believe you need to set Black point compensation and if i remember right when i did my last calibration with dispcalGUI i did not use it!...also we are not getting black crush so there's no point in enabling it!...however after downloading the new version that came out a few days ago i notice that in the advanced setting it is enabled as default?..i am sure this was not the case with the older version?....i always use white and black point compensation though...and i also believe that dispcalGUI produces the best calibrations for an overclocked monitor...my whites and blacks look so much better at 120hz then with any calibration from datacolor and even basICColor display 5...my whites and blacks from dispcalGUI profiles look exactly the same to me as when my monitor is at 60hz and i can not tell the difference between my colors also between my 60hz screen and 120hz screen using dispcalGUI ..
> 
> If you are going to do a *slow* massive L*a*b LUT profile i believe you will be looking at yet another as you had last time 17.5 hour calibration lol
> Can you post a screen shot of your 120hz profile please.
> I know what i would do with that spare Qnix you have sitting around....i would rip the PCB Board out of it and buy a glossy Monex and put the Qnix PCB Board in it and overclock it and either sell it or keep it


Here is the custom resolution from NVCP. Additionaly, i can see all the refresh rates that i've made in NVCP under windows.



Do you think it could be the cable that came with the monitor? Im getting my new one tomorrow.

Thanks!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heligrin*
> 
> Here is the custom resolution from NVCP. Additionaly, i can see all the refresh rates that i've made in NVCP under windows.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think it could be the cable that came with the monitor? Im getting my new one tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks!


Can you please set you 120hz timings the exact same as mine in this picture below...i believe that will fix your 120hz problem....it will lower your pixel clock nearer to the 450mhz pixel clock limit which will give you a stronger signal


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heligrin*
> 
> I used the nvidia pixel clock patcher (1.2.5) (i have an nvidia gtx 570). I set the custom resolution with 120 hz and apply. Go to UFO test and it still says 96. If i set anything lower than 96 UFO test will reflect that. I feel like im doing something wrong, lol..


Did you use the full patch? Without the full patch, 500-series (Fermi) cards have a 400 MHz pixel clock limit.


----------



## Heligrin

No. I used the partial patch. I'll try the full and use law sons settings. Thanks guys!!!


----------



## Heligrin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Did you use the full patch? Without the full patch, 500-series (Fermi) cards have a 400 MHz pixel clock limit.


No. I used the partial patch. I'll try the full and use law sons settings. Thanks guys!!!

After patching and using lawsons settings, the max is now 100 hz under the UFOtest. If that is my max, why isnt my monitor glitching when its run @ 120?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heligrin*
> 
> No. I used the partial patch. I'll try the full and use law sons settings. Thanks guys!!!
> 
> After patching and using lawsons settings, the max is now 100 hz under the UFOtest. If that is my max, why isnt my monitor glitching when its run @ 120?


If you used my timings that would of got your pixel clock down to 459mhz instead of the 483mhz that you had in your 120hz resolution before using my timings....many can not get lower timings than this...as to why you are only getting 100fps in the UFO test i am unsure?....Maybe ToastyX can help you further as he is the guy that has written the patch and my have more info on your pacific graphic card injunction with his patch.


----------



## note

If I'm getting tons of green horizontal lines at 115mhz and above could it be that my monitor reached its limit?

I'm currently using Lawson's timing.. Thanks!


----------



## Heligrin

Weird...just re-seated my cable and now im hitting 120hz. Thanks everyone!!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *note*
> 
> If I'm getting tons of green horizontal lines at 115mhz and above could it be that my monitor reached its limit?
> 
> I'm currently using Lawson's timing.. Thanks!


If you have artefacts at 115hz maybe you have indeed reached your limit...sometimes changing cables or switching dvi-d ports on the graphics cards have enabled some people to reach higher refresh rates...110hz is still a good though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heligrin*
> 
> Weird...just re-seated my cable and now im hitting 120hz. Thanks everyone!!


Your welcome and welcome to the 120hz club


----------



## Jetlitheone

So when I push on the edge of the monitor where that yellow tint is it seems to help... 

Any ideas?


----------



## hammelgammler

Lol just did a massive L*a*b LUT calibration at night with white led settings.
Monitor was at 96Hz. Black point compensation was also enabled.
99,9% sRGB with Gamma 2.2.







I think with Gamma at sRGB i could reach 100% but 99,9% is still good.
Brightness was set to ~151cmd2.



Here's the profile:

2014-02-1700.422.2M-SLabLUT-96Hz151cmd2whiteLED.zip 466k .zip file


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Lol just did a massive L*a*b LUT calibration at night with white led settings.
> Monitor was at 96Hz. Black point compensation was also enabled.
> 99,9% sRGB with Gamma 2.2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think with Gamma at sRGB i could reach 100% but 99,9% is still good.
> Brightness was set to ~151cmd2.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the profile:
> 
> 2014-02-1700.422.2M-SLabLUT-96Hz151cmd2whiteLED.zip 466k .zip file


What colorimeter do you use?


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> What colorimeter do you use?


Spyder4Express.


----------



## hammelgammler

I will doing a slow massive one with black point compensation disabled next night.
But the current profile looks very good though.
The deltaE max is kind of high... When i calibrate with less patches the max is only at approx 1.5...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Lol just did a massive L*a*b LUT calibration at night with white led settings.
> Monitor was at 96Hz. Black point compensation was also enabled.
> 99,9% sRGB with Gamma 2.2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think with Gamma at sRGB i could reach 100% but 99,9% is still good.
> Brightness was set to ~151cmd2.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the profile:
> 
> 2014-02-1700.422.2M-SLabLUT-96Hz151cmd2whiteLED.zip 466k .zip file


Hammel are you using the new dispcalGUI that came out last week?


----------



## Heligrin

Has anyone noticed non-uniform brightness across the screen? Mine seems to be slightly darker on the bottom/right of the screen. Tends to get worse the higher the refresh rate.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hammel are you using the new dispcalGUI that came out last week?


Yes i do.
But i think the big difference was that i didnt chose White LED setting. The changelog of the new Version was not that big...


----------



## loki993

Ive been looking at these and Im impressed with the excellent panels they use..but there a few things that concern me. Lets set aside the fact for a moment that your basically buying one sans warranty. Ive read a few in depth reviews on these. Everything seems great aside from the brightness control. It seems they are so bare bones that they either have no backlight dimming at all or use a very low frequency PWM. The ones without PWM use digital white level reduction to decrease brightness which kills blacks and significantly reduces the contrast ratios. The PWM ones with their low frequency PWM the review sites usually say this is an unacceptable PWM frequency for a modern display and may flicker.

So the question is is there a monitor out there that has true backlight dimming or a decent frequency PWM.

Secondly is there a way to get around the contrast reduction with the digital white level reduction.

Thirdly will I actually notice any of it.


----------



## vedranius

Hi all!

I'm totally into buying Qnix but I'm wondering if I should buy it or buy discounted BenQ XL2411T as my main goal for monitor like this is gaming.

Tho, I'd really like to have a resolution of 2560x1440, I'm not that sure about buying a monitor through eBay without any warranty in my country if something happens to it, and sending it back with my cost of shipping...

So, is it really worth buying Qnix compared to that BenQ?

Thanks!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> Thirdly will I actually notice any of it.


No and if you do as i did and buy pixel perfect one you will have ebay on your side if you do not receive a pixel perfect monitor...then you force the seller to take it back which they don't like to do because of the shipping charges....Anyhow right now i believe if you bought a Ultimate pixel perfect from excellentcastle you would receive a pixel perfect monitor...i also believe he checks them....you however will most likely have backlight bleed though...i believe 99% of them do have BLB and this is the main reason they are A- grade screens.

However with a bit of self confidence you can strip it down and fix the BLB which is usually only the fact that the screen is sat in a bent frame....then you will own as i do a A+ Grade screen with 100% fixed BLB and you will have an £800 worth PLS screen for only £200 that is capable of overclocking to at least 96hz if not as mine does120hz....

Forget PWN dimming these screens look and feel incredible at 96hz/120hz with a good ICC profile...where else are you going to get a 120hz PLS screen for £200?.....and as for PWN dimming you would not even notice it if you had it...and in NCX review of the Qnix he said "*I used the LED PWM Testing method from TFT Central's article. Either my Qnix QX2710 does not use LED PWM Dimming or it uses a frequency so high it is not perceivable on camera.*"...and if i remember right i think deads review from Overclock.ru calmed it did have PWN Dimming?

The up shot of it all is you have to test to find out if you *even* have PWM Dimming or not!...you will not notice anything other than a fantastic looking QHD 2560X1440 screen running at 96hz-120HZ with incredible colors.


----------



## renji1337

im debating on getting a spyder4express


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I'm totally into buying Qnix but I'm wondering if I should buy it or buy discounted BenQ XL2411T as my main goal for monitor like this is gaming.
> 
> Tho, I'd really like to have a resolution of 2560x1440, I'm not that sure about buying a monitor through eBay without any warranty in my country if something happens to it, and sending it back with my cost of shipping...
> 
> So, is it really worth buying Qnix compared to that BenQ?
> 
> Thanks!


These monitors are great for gaming at 96hz-120hz with only a 6ms response time...have better colors than the Benq and in my opinion i would have a cheaper better looking Qinx everytime than pay the extra for the BenQ

Do have the option of the square trade warranty in your country?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> im debating on getting a spyder4express


I would not debate it i would just get it


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> im debating on getting a spyder4express


Do it.








Had to buy two of them because my first one had an issue but the second one is perfect!
99,9% sRGB... Everything fine.
I only paid 64€ for that cool sensor.


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> These monitors are great for gaming at 96hz-120hz with only a 6ms response time...have better colors than the Benq and in my opinion i would have a cheaper better looking Qinx everytime than pay the extra for the BenQ
> 
> Do have the option of the square trade warranty in your country?


Sadly no and that's the other reason why I'm more to BenQ as of the 2 year warranty in Croatia.
But still, I'd like to buy that QNix no matter what, tho it's still the money which isn't that low, and I'm not a guy that buys monitors every 1-3 years, so I want my monitor to last


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> Sadly no and that's the other reason why I'm more to BenQ as of the 2 year warranty in Croatia.
> But still, I'd like to buy that QNix no matter what, tho it's still the money which isn't that low, and I'm not a guy that buys monitors every 1-3 years, so I want my monitor to last


Yes i understand i bought a square trade 3 year warranty for my Qnix...i intend on keeping this monitor 3 years or more also...and i see no reason why even overclocked that this monitor should have a shorter life than any other branded monitor out there...the screen is a high quality samsung and the PCB board seems to be of good quality also....here is a picture i took of the screens make and model number when i striped my Qnix down to straighten the frame to fix my backlight bleed.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *worldofents*
> 
> How did you get this warranty being based in the UK? I thought it was only available to the US and Canada at addresses registered there.
> 
> Iv decided i am going to buy a QNIX 2710 monitor pixel perfect bypass board.
> 
> Has any one bought from 2560x1440.com? I can pay by Paypal so have the protection like eBay and also they are cheaper than eBay with a 1 year warranty as well for £202.71 including shipping.
> 
> Here is the link:
> 
> http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=qnix&product_id=54
> 
> PLS is better than IPS right?


PLS is essentially the same as IPS.


----------



## worldofents

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i understand i bought a square trade 3 year warranty for my Qnix...i intend on keeping this monitor 3 years or more also...and i see no reason why even overclocked that this monitor should have a shorter life than any other branded monitor out there...the screen is a high quality samsung and the PCB board seems to be of good quality also....here is a picture i took of the screens make and model number when i striped my Qnix down to straighten the frame to fix my backlight bleed.


How did you get this warranty being based in the UK? I thought it was only available to the US and Canada at addresses registered there.

Iv decided i am going to buy a QNIX 2710 monitor pixel perfect bypass board.

Has any one bought from 2560x1440.com? I can pay by Paypal so have the protection like eBay and also they are cheaper than eBay with a 1 year warranty as well for £202.71 including shipping.

Here is the link:

http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=qnix&product_id=54

PLS is better than IPS right?

Sorry double post accidentally!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *worldofents*
> 
> How did you get this warranty being based in the UK? I thought it was only available to the US and Canada at addresses registered there.
> 
> Iv decided i am going to buy a QNIX 2710 monitor pixel perfect bypass board.
> 
> Has any one bought from 2560x1440.com? I can pay by Paypal so have the protection like eBay and also they are cheaper than eBay with a 1 year warranty as well for £202.71 including shipping.
> 
> Here is the link:
> 
> http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=qnix&product_id=54
> 
> PLS is better than IPS right?


You can buy a square trade warranty in the UK mine was offered at the time of purchase with my Qnix...i paid only £34.99 which i thought was very reasonable for 3 years warranty...there are many seller that offer a square trade warranty with the Qnix at the point of sale...if not you can buy any Qnix and as long as you have owned it for less than 60 days you can buy a square trade warranty from the a square trade warranty website and calling the UK land line number on there which is 0808 189 1453

Square trade website UK

http://p.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/uk/safetycentre/SquareTrade-terms.pdf

http://www.squaretrade.co.uk/

Qnix monitor on ebay UK with Square trade policy being sold at point of sale

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c3b6ce452

BTW: don't forget you will get hit with UK customs import tax duty


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You can buy a square trade warranty in the UK mine was offered at the time of purchase with my Qnix...i paid only £34.99 which i thought was very reasonable for 3 years warranty...there are many seller that offer a square trade warranty with the Qnix at the point of sale...if not you can buy any Qnix and as long as you have owned it for less than 60 days you can buy a square trade warranty from the a square trade warranty website and calling the UK lane line number on there which is 0808 189 1453
> 
> Square trade website UK
> 
> http://p.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/uk/safetycentre/SquareTrade-terms.pdf
> 
> http://www.squaretrade.co.uk/
> 
> Qnix monitor on ebay UK with Square trade policy being sold at point of sale
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c3b6ce452


I'm wondering what if SquareTrade isn't available in my country, can I still buy it? As I'm not sure how SquareTrade works.
As far as I saw about it, they send you a special box, you pack your device and send it to them in their shipping cost.
But let's say I buy SquareTrade and I'm not in a country where it is available, something happens to my monitor, and then I send the monitor after 2 years to the seller, will they approve this to repair a monitor for me and send it back to me? Or this wouldn't work?









Tnx!


----------



## worldofents

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You can buy a square trade warranty in the UK mine was offered at the time of purchase with my Qnix...i paid only £34.99 which i thought was very reasonable for 3 years warranty...there are many seller that offer a square trade warranty with the Qnix at the point of sale...if not you can buy any Qnix and as long as you have owned it for less than 60 days you can buy a square trade warranty from the a square trade warranty website and calling the UK lane line number on there which is 0808 189 1453
> 
> Square trade website UK
> 
> http://p.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/uk/safetycentre/SquareTrade-terms.pdf
> 
> http://www.squaretrade.co.uk/
> 
> Qnix monitor on ebay UK with Square trade policy being sold at point of sale
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c3b6ce452
> 
> BTW: don't forget you will get hit with UK customs import tax duty


Thanks for the quick reply! Yes I understand about UK customs it sucks but it will have to be paid. ( How does work if its marked as a gift and sent by UPS by the way? I understand I will paid the tax/duty but at what point. When I have had deliveries from USA via Royal Mail I paid on collection of the parcel from depot. Is it the same with UPS/DHL?)

I am actually looking at "accessorieswhole" on eBay, been reading back a few pages and it seems the monitors recently from them have had issues, is that right? Is the general consenses of this thread swaying towards "accessorieswhole" are supplying bad batches? Glad I read that before diving in and purchasing earlier today.

If so I think ill order from this website (2560x1140.com) as they say they test before sending out. If I order a pixel perfect one they should make sure that screen is damn perfect before dispatching.

This model has been out a while now, any news on a new model being released at some point?


----------



## lawson67

I bought a pixel perfect from accessorieswhole and it arrived pixel perfect..i think the trouble people have been having is trying to buy the SE model....which has NO different specs to the non SE version...and they have not been buying pixel perfect....i believe in buying pixel perfect because you have Ebay on your side if you don't receive a pixel perfect screen...and the last thing any seller wants to do is pay for return shipping!...right now i would buy an ultimate pixel perfect from exclentcasltle and i would feel fairly confident that is what i would get a pixel perfect screen from him...expect BLB to some degree with all of these monitors though.


----------



## worldofents

In my opinion backlight bleed is a limitation of LED tech its expected although hopefully its not excessive.

I will check out excellentcastle as well then. As well as sifting through the last 1398 pages of this thread.









How bad was your bleed? If you ordered from excellentcastle, I know each individual monitor is different but just trying to get an idea of whats normal and whats excessive.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *worldofents*
> 
> In my opinion backlight bleed is a limitation of LED tech its expected although hopefully its not excessive.
> 
> I will check out excellentcastle as well then. As well as sifting through the last 1398 pages of this thread.


The BLB these screens have can be fixed 100% it is generally coursed by the screen sitting in a bent metal frame...i have 0 BLB after stripping mine down and straightening the bent metal frame using just brute force with just my hands and my dinning room table as a straight reference point...IE if it sat flush on my dinning room table it was now straight...my frame peaked in the middle along the top edge at nearly an inch high before i straightened it when i first sat it on my dining room table.

The dark area without the BLB along the top in the middle of the picture is where the bend peeked at nearly and inch...there is no BLB at this area due to how tight it was pinching in screen in this area by the bent frame....the BLB either side of that area is where it was now lose as the peek of the bend lessened and created gaps towards each corner of the frame


FIXED


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I bought a pixel perfect from accessorieswhole and it arrived pixel perfect..i think the trouble people have been having is trying to buy the SE model....which has NO different specs to the non SE version...and they have not been buying pixel perfect....i believe in buying pixel perfect because you have Ebay on your side if you don't receive a pixel perfect screen...and the last thing any seller wants to do is pay for return shipping!...right now i would buy an ultimate pixel perfect from exclentcasltle and i would feel fairly confident that is what i would get a pixel perfect screen from him...expect BLB to some degree with all of these monitors though.


So can you assure me that if I order from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/261381185662?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item3cdb88607e that I'll get a 0 dead pixel monitor?

Thanks!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> So can you assure me that if I order from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/261381185662?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item3cdb88607e that I'll get a 0 dead pixel monitor?
> 
> Thanks!


No i can not assure you of anything...however i will say this...if i wanted to buy a new Qnix today i would buy the very one you have just linked to me...also i would feel very confident that i would indeed receive a pixel perfect screen









In fact i would buy this one from Ebay UK £227 including shipping for Ultimate Perfect Pixel i would be more than happy with that









http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> So can you assure me that if I order from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/261381185662?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item3cdb88607e that I'll get a 0 dead pixel monitor?
> 
> Thanks!


That one should come with zero, correct. The others that list perfect pixel will consider 1 perfect, the one in your link is not one of those.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to buy two of them because my first one had an issue but the second one is perfect!
> 99,9% sRGB... Everything fine.
> I only paid 64€ for that cool sensor.


What was wrong with the first one and did you return it? I got a lot of credit on Amazon so I'd buy one there


----------



## Voland

Are there any differences between the QX2710 Evolution II SE and the QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUI44US/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-Monitor/dp/B00HWV8ZTS/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i

Has anyone purchased the SE models before?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voland*
> 
> Are there any differences between the QX2710 Evolution II SE and the QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUI44US/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-Monitor/dp/B00HWV8ZTS/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i
> 
> Has anyone purchased the SE models before?


There are no differences between the QX2710 Evolution II SE and the QX2710 LED Evolution II the specs are the same..yes people have bought the SE most have had faults..(they did not order pixel perfect)...however a member got his SE the other day and said he was happy with it i do believe


----------



## Voland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> There are no differences between the QX2710 Evolution II SE and the QX2710 LED Evolution II the specs are the same..yes people have bought the SE most have had faults..(they did not order pixel perfect)...however a member got his SE the other day and said he was happy with it i do believe


Would it be advisable to purchase this then:

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI/ref=pd_cp_pc_1


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voland*
> 
> Would it be advisable to purchase this then:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI/ref=pd_cp_pc_1


I don't know the seller but his reviews look great

One of his reviews and i agree with him about the stand and everything else he has said...

I was leery of purchasing this monitor due to some descriptions of the construction, bleeding of light, etc. I finally decided to give it a try - worst case scenario I could use it as a secondary monitor.

It arrived 3 days before the estimated delivery date (ordered Monday and received Friday). The packaging was intact and looked as if I had picked it up new in a store. Everything inside was well-packed, secure and undamaged.

The monitor was heavier than my 27" Samsung or Acer monitors and felt more solid, to be honest. I feared the case would be fragile or cheaply constructed, but it is not. It doesn't feel or look any less quality than my Samsung which cost more money and is 1920x1080 resolution. The leg of the stand is already attached to the monitor and the base attaches with a single screw tightened by hand. I assembled it and from other reviews expected it to be extraordinarily wobbly or unstable but, again, it's about the same as my other monitors.

The box included a standard power plug with a brick and a heavy-duty DVI-D cable. I plugged everything in and turned on my computer. I will never go back to 1920x1080 again unless I am destitute or no other resolution is available. The colors are vibrant, the text is crisp, and everything seems so much more "alive".

Maybe I just got lucky, but I don't think so. If you're on the fence about the quality of this monitor, let a complete stranger give you some advice. Buy it. You won't regret it. The service is impeccable, the monitor can be overclocked to higher refresh rates, and it will enhance everything you do on your computer.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> What was wrong with the first one and did you return it? I got a lot of credit on Amazon so I'd buy one there


Yes i returned the faulty one and ordered a new one.
First one was at 75€ and when ordered the second one it was at 64€. If it would not be cheaper than before i had bought a ColorMunki. But for that price i want to give Spyder4Express another try.
Ordered from Amazon too.
The first one had a massive red tint after calibration. Grey looked very red instead of grey...
But as i said the second one is perfect. 99,9% sRGB with Gamma at 2.2 and not sRGB seems perfect to me.


----------



## Voland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I don't know the seller but his reviews look great


I was initially considering buying the Qnix from MNW Global (Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUI44US/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=
after reading that the pixel perfect versions were not worth the extra price.

But saw the lower price of the SE models.

Found this:
The pixel policy is different.
The one with "SE" has 0~10 defective pixels.
The one wtihout "SE" has 0~5 defective pixels.
http://list.qoo10.sg/item/QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-LL-MATTE/410946606#questionAnswer


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Hmm my X-Star apparently still has not been shipped. Fedex just shows shipping information sent and it's been 3 days.


----------



## Voland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I don't know the seller but his reviews look great
> 
> One of his reviews and i agree with him about the stand and everything else he has said...
> 
> I was leery of purchasing this monitor due to some descriptions of the construction, bleeding of light, etc. I finally decided to give it a try - worst case scenario I could use it as a secondary monitor.
> 
> It arrived 3 days before the estimated delivery date (ordered Monday and received Friday). The packaging was intact and looked as if I had picked it up new in a store. Everything inside was well-packed, secure and undamaged.
> 
> The monitor was heavier than my 27" Samsung or Acer monitors and felt more solid, to be honest. I feared the case would be fragile or cheaply constructed, but it is not. It doesn't feel or look any less quality than my Samsung which cost more money and is 1920x1080 resolution. The leg of the stand is already attached to the monitor and the base attaches with a single screw tightened by hand. I assembled it and from other reviews expected it to be extraordinarily wobbly or unstable but, again, it's about the same as my other monitors.
> 
> The box included a standard power plug with a brick and a heavy-duty DVI-D cable. I plugged everything in and turned on my computer. I will never go back to 1920x1080 again unless I am destitute or no other resolution is available. The colors are vibrant, the text is crisp, and everything seems so much more "alive".
> 
> Maybe I just got lucky, but I don't think so. If you're on the fence about the quality of this monitor, let a complete stranger give you some advice. Buy it. You won't regret it. The service is impeccable, the monitor can be overclocked to higher refresh rates, and it will enhance everything you do on your computer.


I will definitely be purchasing one within the next few days,i just need to pick one from the three.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voland*
> 
> I will definitely be purchasing one within the next few days,i just need to pick one from the three.


If it was me i would buy pixel perfect...one because i could not live with any dead/stuck pixels....and two because you are buying a A- grade screen which has defects mainly BLB possibly bad BLB so do you want dead pixels which you can do nothing about and Possibly bad BLB?...or do you want 100% working pixels and maybe bad BLB you can fix 100%?....for me its perfect pixel every time...but that's just me.


----------



## Voland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> If it was me i would buy pixel perfect...one because i could not live with any dead/stuck pixels....and two because you are buying a A- grade screen which has defects mainly BLB possibly bad BLB so do you want dead pixels which you can do nothing about and Possibly bad BLB?...or do you want 100% working pixels and maybe bad BLB you can fix 100%?....for me its perfect pixel every time...but that's just me.


The description lists "Upto 1 dead pixel in non center area" for the pixel perfect.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voland*
> 
> The description lists "Upto 1 dead pixel in non center area" for the pixel perfect.


For a 100% perfect pixel with 0 allowed you would need to purchase this http://www.ebay.com/itm/271375013937?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Granted you could get that just by ordering the regular one as well as many others have.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voland*
> 
> The description lists "Upto 1 dead pixel in non center area" for the pixel perfect.


I would not buy that i want 0 dead pixels...i would buy Ultimate Perfect Pixel from Ebay and from excellentcastle this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831

However you must buy from where ever you feel happy and whatever description you feel suits your needs


----------



## renji1337

How exactly would i use the spyder4express once i recieve?

I run these refresh rates, 60, 75, 85, 96, 120. So i would need to calibrate these, reasoning why I have all these is because the top right of my monitor has a brightness uniformity issue as i go higher in refresh rates. In games such as WoW its 100% noticeable at 96 and 120, but in GW2 it is not. On a fully red screen you cant see it, on a fully gray or green screen its horrid.

Also would this issue hurt the colorimeter and the results it generates?

Im also gonna use it for my vg248qe too.

I posted my issue on this thread to before, as i increase in hertz the top right side decreases in brightness, the whole screen dims ofc, but the top right side more then the rest. at 120hz this is evident from the middle to the top right of the screen to halfway down so im guessing if i make a ICC profile at 120hz it will possibly suck.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I would not buy that i want 0 dead pixels...i would buy Ultimate Perfect Pixel from Ebay and from excellentcastle this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
> 
> However you must buy from where ever you feel happy and whatever you description you feel suits your needs


You linked the same one he did.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> How exactly would i use the spyder4express once i recieve?
> 
> I run these refresh rates, 60, 75, 85, 96, 120. So i would need to calibrate these, reasoning why I have all these is because the top right of my monitor has a brightness uniformity issue as i go higher in refresh rates. In games such as WoW its 100% noticeable at 96 and 120, but in GW2 it is not. On a fully red screen you cant see it, on a fully gray or green screen its horrid.
> 
> Also would this issue hurt the colorimeter and the results it generates?
> 
> Im also gonna use it for my vg248qe too.
> 
> I posted my issue on this thread to before, as i increase in hertz the top right side decreases in brightness, the whole screen dims ofc, but the top right side more then the rest. at 120hz this is evident from the middle to the top right of the screen to halfway down so im guessing if i make a ICC profile at 120hz it will possibly suck.


At whatever hertz you want to run at you should calibrate make an ICC profile for that hertz...also for better results choose a brightness level at that hertz and put in the description of the resulting ICC profile...IE my_profile_96hz_200_cd/m.ICC
Also screen uniformity when overclocking has been talked about before some get it worse than other's...for me its only barely noticeable on a green back ground...also it would not affect your ICC profile as its normally up in the high right hand corner and you calibrate your screen in the middle of the screen...or find an area to calibrate where there is no uniformity
Also screen uniformity can normally be decreased in many cases by optimizing your timings and sometimes useing a shorter better quality DVI-D lead has as also been reported to help

Edit: i would also say that if you are jumping from one Hertz to another for whatever reason you could not use a better tool than yasamoka Color Sustainer as you can set ICC profiles for each of your refresh rates and it will change you to your appropriate ICC profile on the fly....i use Color Sustainer all time in fact it is set to load with windows and i only run at 120hz...but i just love the way it applies and deals with my ICC profiles and the way my games look since using it....i believe it is a must have app for anyone with a overclocked monitor.

Download Color Sustainer here:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=4758590


----------



## worldofents

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I would not buy that i want 0 dead pixels...i would buy Ultimate Perfect Pixel from Ebay and from excellentcastle this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
> 
> However you must buy from where ever you feel happy and whatever description you feel suits your needs


Pretty sure I'm going to buy this one. Its a little extra than the 2560x1440.com site but the buyer protection through ebay.co.uk is better.

It says on the listing near the bottom on the FAQ in regards to customs:

"When buyer need special request, leave message in order table" and "We also try our best for buyer not to be charged or charged little"

What do you think about this if I asked for the gift option and maybe a lower amount. I guess a lot of people must do this since it says that.


----------



## kornedbeefy

Hey all,

Just some info and a couple questions.

I received my Qnix today from bigclothcraft. I went for the pixel perfect version. I could definitely tell it was at least removed from the box and worked over. It had green painters tape reapplying the plastic film that comes on the front of a new monitor and it had a sticker on the outside of the box stating zero dead pixel. That and the monitor has no dead or stuck pixels and no issue with blb.

I was disappointed with the Qnix at first because my Crossover 27q glossy looks a lot better as far as brightness and clarity. White looks more white. That was until I overclocked my Qnix to 96hz.









Now a couple of questions.

1. I want to go for 120hz but I'm hesitant to push it further. Has anyone destroyed their monitor by overclocking it?

2. Is my Asus 7950 videocard good enough to drive both monitors especially while gaming? I don't want to overstress it. The Qnix will be my main display for gaming and the Crossover will be relegated to an extended chat/surfing window. Basically I'm considering picking up a second real cheap video card for the Crossover but only if you guys recommend it.

That's it for now. Back to testing it out.


----------



## majin662

Just got my QNIX an hour ago during lunch break (thank god I was home cause UPS just slid it to the door in the rain) and all I can is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No dead pixels, but very minor (not even sure I'll worry about fixing it just yet) BLB in the lower center, just right of the QNIX logo, and a very minor spot in the upper center just left of center. I almost didn't notice it during a BLB test but then I chilled my nerdgasm and saw it. Still better than my current TN panel it's replacing.

Guess I'll have to go over the thread page by page and check out all the tricks,guides, and fixes. Purchased through Amazon for 309$$ from MNW Global. Crazy fast shipping and so very glad I got one with minor BLB (was my only worry when purchasing one of these Korean monitors) Model is :QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE


----------



## SeanEboy

Just thought I would throw this out there.. I just made a few offers to Excellentcastle, and he finally accepted my offer for (2) @ $340 each. Seems like that's the lowest they'll go. Also! If someone is ordering, please pm me, and try to email their hotmail directly- which I will give you. I'm willing to bet they'll take 10% off the eBay price, as eBay won't take their cut...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *worldofents*
> 
> Pretty sure I'm going to buy this one. Its a little extra than the 2560x1440.com site but the buyer protection through ebay.co.uk is better.
> 
> It says on the listing near the bottom on the FAQ in regards to customs:
> 
> "When buyer need special request, leave message in order table" and "We also try our best for buyer not to be charged or charged little"
> 
> What do you think about this if I asked for the gift option and maybe a lower amount. I guess a lot of people must do this since it says that.


Good choice tell him to mark it down as $200 instead of £200 i did and it helps a lot with import tax








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kornedbeefy*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Just some info and a couple questions.
> 
> I received my Qnix today from bigclothcraft. I went for the pixel perfect version. I could definitely tell it was at least removed from the box and worked over. It had green painters tape reapplying the plastic film that comes on the front of a new monitor and it had a sticker on the outside of the box stating zero dead pixel. That and the monitor has no dead or stuck pixels and no issue with blb.
> 
> I was disappointed with the Qnix at first because my Crossover 27q glossy looks a lot better as far as brightness and clarity. White looks more white. That was until I overclocked my Qnix to 96hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now a couple of questions.
> 
> 1. I want to go for 120hz but I'm hesitant to push it further. Has anyone destroyed their monitor by overclocking it?
> 
> 2. Is my Asus 7950 videocard good enough to drive both monitors especially while gaming? I don't want to overstress it. The Qnix will be my main display for gaming and the Crossover will be relegated to an extended chat/surfing window. Basically I'm considering picking up a second real cheap video card for the Crossover but only if you guys recommend it.
> 
> That's it for now. Back to testing it out.


Overclocking it to 120hz should not damage it in anyway as you are not rasing any voltage and so therefore are not generating any more heat..this is my personal opion and i run at 120hz 24/7 and I do not believe i am shortening its life in anyway than that of any other branded monitor


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majin662*
> 
> Just got my QNIX an hour ago during lunch break (thank god I was home cause UPS just slid it to the door in the rain) and all I can is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> No dead pixels, but very minor (not even sure I'll worry about fixing it just yet) BLB in the lower center, just right of the QNIX logo, and a very minor spot in the upper center just left of center. I almost didn't notice it during a BLB test but then I chilled my nerdgasm and saw it. Still better than my current TN panel it's replacing.
> 
> Guess I'll have to go over the thread page by page and check out all the tricks,guides, and fixes. Purchased through Amazon for 309$$ from MNW Global. Crazy fast shipping and so very glad I got one with minor BLB (was my only worry when purchasing one of these Korean monitors) Model is :QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE


Really pleased for you and thanks for letting us know you have got a good SE model and where you bought it from


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Just thought I would throw this out there.. I just made a few offers to Excellentcastle, and he finally accepted my offer for (2) @ $340 each. Seems like that's the lowest they'll go. Also! If someone is ordering, please pm me, and try to email their hotmail directly- which I will give you. I'm willing to bet they'll take 10% off the eBay price, as eBay won't take their cut...


But then you don't have any guarantee that he should ship you a monitor, and actually you don't have eBay Protection.
So in my opinion I'd rather pay that 10% more through eBay then pay a full price for monitor and no monitor on my desk









But it's good to know that you can make an offer


----------



## Cyalume

I've managed to OC my QNIX 2710 to 96Hz. What are the risks of running it at this refresh rate?

I OC'ed to 120 for a bit, but it produced artifacts.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> I've managed to OC my QNIX 2710 to 96Hz. What are the risks of running it at this refresh rate?
> 
> I OC'ed to 120 for a bit, but it produced artifacts.


Use these exact timings for your 120hz profile from my picture below this will lower your pixel clock and hopefully take away your artefacts...no one as yet has ever reported that they have blown up there monitor from overclocking... my personal opinion is you will be fine and i run 120hz 24/7 and i am not worried about blowing it up at all.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> But then you don't have any guarantee that he should ship you a monitor, and actually you don't have eBay Protection.
> So in my opinion I'd rather pay that 10% more through eBay then pay a full price for monitor and no monitor on my desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's good to know that you can make an offer


Paypal, still has you covered, homie!


----------



## worldofents

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?ssPageName=ADME:B:BOC:US:1123

If you buy the same listing but from eBay.com not .co.uk it has the square trade on the checkout but when you click it says "only available in US and Canada" however it lets me checkout when I log in still and all postage is to UK address.

Lawson you mentioned you had square trade, did you get it this way? And its definately valid for the UK your warranty?

Thanks for your assistance on this one mate, really appreciated.


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Paypal, still has you covered, homie!


Aye aye, true true, tho PayPal's cover is kinda slow compared to eBay's... I had some problems with BangGood and it took a long long time for PayPal to take care of that...


----------



## SeanEboy

Lol, you actually bought something from a company named 'BangGood'!? That's hilarious... And they sure banged you good apparently.. ;c) what do they sell?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *worldofents*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?ssPageName=ADME:B:BOC:US:1123
> 
> If you buy the same listing but from eBay.com not .co.uk it has the square trade on the checkout but when it click it is says "only available in US and Canada"
> 
> Lawson you mentioned you had square trade, did you get it this way? And its definately valid for the UK your warranty?
> 
> Thank for your assistance on this one mate, really appreciated.


Of course it will say if you buy from EBAY.COM "only available in US and Canada" because you are on EBAY.COM when you should be on EBAY.CO.UK with an IP address originating from the UK...does the same message come up when you are on EBAY.CO.UK where you should be?...no....and yes i have already told you that i bought my 3 year square trade warranty from EBAY.CO.UK which is where you should be if you come from the UK and should be buying your Qnix from...i also gave you the Square trade UK web site Along with the UK Square trade phone number...however here they are again

The UK square trade phone number: 0808 189 1453

The UK square trade website: http://www.squaretrade.co.uk/

From the UK Square trade web site:
You can find SquareTrade at the UK's top retailers, including Tesco, ASDA, Amazon, eBay, Ebuyer and Misco. You can also purchase iPhone or iPad protection plans directly from our website.

They don't have Asda in the U.S.A its called walmart


----------



## worldofents

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Of course it will say if you buy from EBAY.COM "only available in US and Canada" because you are on EBAY.COM when you should be on EBAY.CO.UK with an IP address originating from the UK...does the same message come up when you are on EBAY.CO.UK where you should be?...no....and yes i have already told you that i bought my 3 year square trade warranty from EBAY.CO.UK which is where if you come from the UK should be buying your Qnix from...i also gave you the Square trade UK web site Along with the UK Square trade phone number...however here they are again
> 
> The UK square trade phone number: 0808 189 1453
> 
> The UK square trade website: http://www.squaretrade.co.uk/


Nope it doesn't come on the UK page the US page loads from my ebay for some reason I didn't choose that and yeh its a UK I.P, sorry I put the numbers in my phone earlier was going to give them a call tomorrow. I miss-read that you bought it from eBay.com because I am looking for it and cant find the cover on eBay.co.uk, even the other eBay link from earlier doesn't have squaretrade option on purchase for me. Oh well no matter ill call them see what they say.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *worldofents*
> 
> Nope it doesn't come on the UK page the US page loads from my ebay for some reason I didn't choose that and yeh its a UK I.P, sorry I put the numbers in my phone earlier was going to give them a call tomorrow. I miss-read that you bought it from eBay.com because I am looking for it and cant find the cover on eBay.co.uk, even the other eBay link from earlier doesn't have squaretrade option on purchase for me. Oh well no matter ill call them see what they say.


I did not buy it from Ebay.com i bought it from Ebay.co.uk because i come from the UK...if you can not find the Ulitmate pixel perfect with the Square trade warranty option pinned underneath the buy it now or make an offer button you can call Square trade warranty on there UK landline number which is 0808 189 1453 and if you do this within 60 days of buying you Qnix they will cover you ...all you need to do is sent them via email your paypal receipt...i know this because my friend also bought a Qnix and did not buy the square trade warranty at the time..

I have also just looked and i can not find the Ultimate pixel perfect on ebay.co.uk with the square trade warranty pinned below the buy it now button..however as i said you can call them within 60 days and still have them cover it









To show you that Square Trade warranty operate on Ebay UK here is a link *but not to the Ulitmate pixel perfect however it shows you that they do in fact operate in the UK...as i said do not worry you do not need to buy the warranty at the time of purchase you have 60 days after the purchase to register
*
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c3b6ce452

*Edit: it also does not mean that if you buy the Ultimate pixel perfect on ebay.co.uk and it does not have the Square trade offer below the buy it now button that they will not cover it...they will be more than happy to take your money and cover it within 60 days...i also know as this is how my friend covered his...as they did not have the Square trade warranty pinned underneath his sale on ebay.co.uk also...yet his is now covered by sending them his paypal receipt after a phone call to Square trade UK*


----------



## majin662

ok so I work is over and I had a chance to start reading through the page starting at the FAQ of course









Here's some photos so I can get in, but also one of my BLB...to me it still seems worse in the photo then when im sitting here looking at it, but I'd like some other opinions as well because it looks like , by the picture at least, there's a couple other smaller spots. Will probably end up fixing sometime in the future as, why not?


----------



## Cyalume

My corners are noticably darker, theres some image retention as well.


----------



## worldofents

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I did not buy it from Ebay.com i bought it from Ebay.co.uk because i come from the UK...if you can not find the Ulitmate pixel perfect with the Square trade warranty option pinned underneath the buy it now or make an offer button you can call Square trade warranty on there UK landline number which is 0808 189 1453 and if you do this within 60 days of buying you Qnix they will cover you ...all you need to do is sent them via email your paypal receipt...i know this because my friend also bought a Qnix and did not buy the square trade warranty at the time..
> 
> I have also just looked and i can not find the Ultimate pixel perfect on ebay.co.uk with the square trade warranty pinned below the buy it now button..however as i said you can call them within 60 days and still have them cover it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To show you that Square Trade warranty operate on Ebay UK here is a link *but not to the Ulitmate pixel perfect however it shows you that they do in fact operate in the UK...as i said do not worry you do not need to buy the warranty at the time of purchase you have 60 days after the purchase to register
> *
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c3b6ce452
> 
> *Edit: it also does not mean that if you buy the Ultimate pixel perfect on ebay.co.uk and it does not have the Square trade offer below the buy it now button that they will not cover it...they will be more than happy to take your money and cover it within 60 days...i also know as this is how my friend covered his...as they did not have the Square trade warranty pinned underneath his sale on ebay.co.uk also...yet his is now covered by sending them his paypal receipt after a phone call to Square trade UK*


Thanks for the info lawson, as said earlier your a great help. Many thanks.

After looking at the above images of backlight bleed I am wondering can you turn down the backlight settings on the 2710 on the pass through DVI-D only model?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majin662*
> 
> ok so I work is over and I had a chance to start reading through the page starting at the FAQ of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some photos so I can get in, but also one of my BLB...to me it still seems worse in the photo then when im sitting here looking at it, but I'd like some other opinions as well because it looks like , by the picture at least, there's a couple other smaller spots. Will probably end up fixing sometime in the future as, why not?


Nice i am sure you will soon have it looking like this


----------



## majin662

o that's sexy right there


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *worldofents*
> 
> Thanks for the info lawson, as said earlier your a great help. Many thanks.
> 
> After looking at the above images of backlight bleed I am wondering can you turn down the backlight settings on the 2710 on the pass through DVI-D only model?


Yes you have brightness controls and volume controls for the worthless 5 watt speakers inside that no one uses.....the brighness goes up to 300 cd/m which is bright....but you don't have a OSD ...you can turn the brightness down or you can do as i did strip it down and repair the sauce of the problem which is normally that the screen is sat in a bent frame...its not a hard job to do at all and you will have fixed your BLB100%





*Edit: Actually its not easy to take a picture with your name on a black background without IPS glow kicking in*


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> So can you assure me that if I order from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/261381185662?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item3cdb88607e that I'll get a 0 dead pixel monitor?
> 
> Thanks!


I bought this exact monitor less then three weeks ago. It has zero dead pixels and very minimal backlight bleed.


----------



## Heligrin

Has anyone noticed non-uniform brightness across the screen? Mine seems to be slightly darker on the bottom/right of the screen. Tends to get worse the higher the refresh rate. -- Reposted


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> I bought this exact monitor less then three weeks ago. It has zero dead pixels and very minimal backlight bleed.


I'm glad to hear all of these positive feedbacks!









Tell me, how hard is it to fix that BLB problem? Any video about how to actually fix it? I'd just like to see the process









Tnx!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> I'm glad to hear all of these positive feedbacks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tell me, how hard is it to fix that BLB problem? Any video about how to actually fix it? I'd just like to see the process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tnx!


There are a few posts of mine on this page that take you though the whole process

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Just thought I would throw this out there.. I just made a few offers to Excellentcastle, and he finally accepted my offer for (2) @ $340 each. Seems like that's the lowest they'll go. Also! If someone is ordering, please pm me, and try to email their hotmail directly- which I will give you. I'm willing to bet they'll take 10% off the eBay price, as eBay won't take their cut...


You're probably right about that being the lowest now. Other members said he wouldn't take the $330 which is what I bought it for three weeks ago. Honestly I would have paid $340 too. Mine is great. No dead pixels and very minimal backlight bleed. I hope you get the same or better. Please post back once received and let us know.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heligrin*
> 
> Has anyone noticed non-uniform brightness across the screen? Mine seems to be slightly darker on the bottom/right of the screen. Tends to get worse the higher the refresh rate. -- Reposted


Yes, there are quite a few posts on the subject. Mine seems to be most noticeable on a dark green or gray background. I don't notice it without overclocking. I would suggest using Lawson's timings when you OC to help minimize this. There has also been some discussion that a shorter better quality DVI cable may help this although I havn't personally tried that yet.


----------



## Cyalume

Ever since I used the AMD OC patch, Youtube/videos don't work correctly in Firefox anymore.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Ever since I used the AMD OC patch, Youtube/videos don't work correctly in Firefox anymore.


This is documented as a known issue.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Ever since I used the AMD OC patch, Youtube/videos don't work correctly in Firefox anymore.


if its green screens, its due to hardware acceleration. you can turn it off by right clicking the media


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> You're probably right about that being the lowest now. Other members said he wouldn't take the $330 which is what I bought it for three weeks ago. Honestly I would have paid $340 too. Mine is great. No dead pixels and very minimal backlight bleed. I hope you get the same or better. Please post back once received and let us know.


Yeah, I started at $320, then went $330, both were auto-rejected. Then, $340 went through and had to wait for a response.
As for mine, thanks! I appreciate it... I'm hoping I get a good set, too... I'll be sure to post back with results. I was saying before there should definitely be a "buyers guide" or at least statistical listing of what people bought, from where, and how they ended up. Much like bin/batch lists on CPUs. Hell, even a poll on this thread would probably work. That way people know which way to go. I know I was in "paralysis by analysis" mode, then I spoke to a very knowledgable member on this thread who steered me in the right direction. Someone then asked the very same questions a few posts back.. So it's nice to know I'm not the only one. But I really think we owe it to our sleeves and potential buyers to do some sort of submission on where we bought, what we paid, what we bought (SE vs PP), and our clocks..


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Yeah, I started at $320, then went $330, both were auto-rejected. Then, $340 went through and had to wait for a response.
> As for mine, thanks! I appreciate it... I'm hoping I get a good set, too... I'll be sure to post back with results. I was saying before there should definitely be a "buyers guide" or at least statistical listing of what people bought, from where, and how they ended up. Much like bin/batch lists on CPUs. Hell, even a poll on this thread would probably work. That way people know which way to go. I know I was in "paralysis by analysis" mode, then I spoke to a very knowledgable member on this thread who steered me in the right direction. Someone then asked the very same questions a few posts back.. So it's nice to know I'm not the only one. But I really think we owe it to our sleeves and potential buyers to do some sort of submission on where we bought, what we paid, what we bought (SE vs PP), and our clocks..


Good news. It's on the first page of this thread. Lol


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Good news. It's on the first page of this thread. Lol


Not to mention the Qnix has a HUGE lead in sales.


----------



## majin662

another image to add



now to search the plethora of color profiles out there.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Good news. It's on the first page of this thread. Lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Not to mention the Qnix has a HUGE lead in sales.


Lol. That is all... ;c)


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Nice i am sure you will soon have it looking like this


Honestly, the corners don't look ideal in this picture but it could just be IPS glow.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majin662*
> 
> another image to add
> 
> 
> 
> now to search the plethora of color profiles out there.


There you go 2 good ICC profiles..they where calibrated at a brightness of 200 cd/m for the 120hz profile 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen and for the 96hz 17 clicks up









Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


----------



## majin662

Thanks man. +rep for you...nom nom nom


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Honestly, the corners don't look ideal in this picture but it could just be IPS glow.


It is ips glow same screen without my name lighting up the screen....my screen is also set to 200 cd/m which is bright and still no BLB....and BLB is a yellowish white light on TOP of a black screen...

BLB



IPS Glow from my camera picking up the brightness of my name



DEAD Black Screen



How about the corners in this one?


----------



## Bigbrag

I received my X-Star today. I had much better first impressions than I did back when I ordered 3 catleaps when those were first released. So far the monitor seems pretty good except for one exception. There are some white bands that run across the upper left comer that can be seen when on a black background. It is pretty hard to notice them otherwise but I'm not sure if I want to keep the monitor or not. I ordered from Greensum on eBay. Hasn't anyone every asked him for a partial refund?

http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo1_zpsf6a02b40.jpg.html
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo3_zpsfcbe5792.jpg.html
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/Bigbrag/media/photo2_zpsb074659f.jpg.html


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majin662*
> 
> Thanks man. +rep for you...nom nom nom


Make sure you have these files.... i up loaded to wrong ones first time round and edited the post as fast as i could...you should of ended up with this zip file with 2 good ICC profiles

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


Edit: i also recommend you use them with yasamoka Color Sustainer which you can download here:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=4758590


----------



## majin662

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Make sure you have these files.... i up loaded to wrong ones first time round and edited the post as fast as i could...you should of ended up with this zip file with 2 good ICC profiles
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file
> 
> 
> Edit: i also recommend you use them with yasamoka Color Sustainer which you can download here:
> 
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=4758590


nice, thanks again. my 780 arrives wednesday to go with this beasty so come this weekend, it's all adderall and pc building/tweaking.

seriously though, my impressions so far with this monitor is just nerdgasmic. the colors are deep where they need to be, pop where they need to pop....can't wait to get it all calibrated up


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majin662*
> 
> nice, thanks again. my 780 arrives wednesday to go with this beasty so come this weekend, it's all adderall and pc building/tweaking.
> 
> seriously though, my impressions so far with this monitor is just nerdgasmic. the colors are deep where they need to be, pop where they need to pop....can't wait to get it all calibrated up


Yep they are great quality samsung screens....those profiles will completely correct the colors and the higher Gamma shift ( darker screen ) running at 96hz and 120hz...you do not need an ICC profile for 60hz these panels have one of the best out of the box colors you can buy...my native white point on my screen is 6551k...cant get much better than that









Edit: i also see you are from Tennessee i lived there for a while ( Clarksville ) with a girl i met when i was training with the 101st airborne division at fort Campbell when i was in ( 2 Para ) UK armed forces


----------



## muppet847

i got my X-star today from Dream-seller. 0 dead pixels but in all my games so far it says the monitor is only refreshing at 59Hz


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muppet847*
> 
> i got my X-star today from Dream-seller. 0 dead pixels but in all my games so far it says the monitor is only refreshing at 59Hz


If you mean at stock speeds its not uncommon to see 59 on a 60.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I received my X-Star today. I had much better first impressions than I did back when I ordered 3 catleaps when those were first released. So far the monitor seems pretty good except for one exception. There are some white bands that run across the upper left comer that can be seen when on a black background. It is pretty hard to notice them otherwise but I'm not sure if I want to keep the monitor or not. I ordered from Greensum on eBay. Hasn't anyone every asked him for a partial refund?


Yes. I would. That's the biggest problem that you could get with these. Much worse then BLB in my opinion.


----------



## tracerit

just got my X-Star from dream-seller when he had the sale last week for $279. Glad to say that there are NO dead pixels and no noticeable back light bleed when viewed with my eyes however it'll show a small amount on the top right when I take a picture. So happy after hearing some people having issues, definitely dodged a bullet.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Maybe we should do a poll to see the most common issues these have?


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Maybe we should do a poll to see the most common issues these have?


Has anyone that didn't buy from AccessoriesWhole suffered from the horizontal lines?

Heh, nevermind (guy on last page). Seems to have the highest number of defects, though.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Has anyone that didn't buy from AccessoriesWhole suffered from the horizontal lines?
> 
> Heh, nevermind (guy on last page). Seems to have the highest number of defects, though.


If they sell more than anyone else, they will have more defects.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Make sure you have these files.... i up loaded to wrong ones first time round and edited the post as fast as i could...you should of ended up with this zip file with 2 good ICC profiles
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file
> 
> 
> Edit: i also recommend you use them with yasamoka Color Sustainer which you can download here:
> 
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=4758590


If you want a good 96hz profile with ~145cdm2 then look at mine. 99,9% sRGB. As "numbers" states my profile should be better then the one from lawson, but thats also a personal experience which looks better for you. Will upload it in a few hours.


----------



## cipp

Alright, so I've had my DP2710 for about a week now.. very light use as we're renovating our basement and I haven't had time to use it. Backlight bleed on it is very minimal, typical IPS-like glow. It overclocks to 120 no problem and I can only find one stuck pixel. It's a great panel in those regards









HOWEVER! I realized today that there may be a flaw. There's this vertical line running from the bottom right-ish of my monitor to about the center of the monitor. It just stays there. It's there at 60Hz and 120Hz. I've tried changing DVI ports. I haven't noticed it because it's not really noticeable on a dark background, and my desktop is dark..

I'll try a different DVI cable later.. I don't have another right now to test the cable, but it looks like a panel defect -- does it not? I feel as if I should RMA this but I'd like your guys opinions first.. it would be nice if there was a way to fix this because this panel is pretty good other than this defect IMO









Here's a couple of pics


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Alright, so I've had my DP2710 for about a week now.. very light use as we're renovating our basement and I haven't had time to use it. Backlight bleed on it is very minimal, typical IPS-like glow. It overclocks to 120 no problem and I can only find one stuck pixel. It's a great panel in those regards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOWEVER! I realized today that there may be a flaw. There's this vertical line running from the bottom right-ish of my monitor to about the center of the monitor. It just stays there. It's there at 60Hz and 120Hz. I've tried changing DVI ports. I haven't noticed it because it's not really noticeable on a dark background, and my desktop is dark..
> 
> I'll try a different DVI cable later.. I don't have another right now to test the cable, but it looks like a panel defect -- does it not? I feel as if I should RMA this but I'd like your guys opinions first.. it would be nice if there was a way to fix this because this panel is pretty good other than this defect IMO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of pics


Hi there i am sorry to see the vertical line on your monitor and if you are getting this at 60hz also its a defect...personally i would inform the seller straight away as i think with most sellers *you only get 2 week free return postage from the seller then after that you have to pay the return postage* and believe me you would not want to pay return postage...i also would try a new cable ASAP it could be that?..and if it does not fix the defect i would advise returning it...but the most important thing to do right now is to get hold of the seller and show him photo of the vertical line...you do NOT want this line going all the way up the screen in say one weeks time from now and have lost your free return policy..

You say you have already had this monitor over a week...and i believe you have a defect that could get worse...you need to get hold of the seller now and i advise to get another cable today after i had told the seller and try it....if it stays the same return it now!


----------



## cipp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi there i am to see sorry the vertical line on your monitor and if you are getting this at 60hz also its a defect...personally i would inform the seller straight away as i think with most sellers *you only get 2 week free return postage from the seller then after that you have to pay the return postage* and believe me you would not want to pay return postage...i also would try a new cable ASAP it could be that?..and if it does not fix the defect i would advise returning it...but the most important thing to do right now is to get hold of the seller and show him photo of the vertical line...you do NOT want this line going all the way up the screen in say one next weeks time from now and have lost your free return policy..
> 
> You say you have already had this monitor over a week...and i believe you have a defect that could get worse...you need to get hold of the seller now and i advise to get another cable today after i had told the seller and try it....if it stayS the same return it now!


Yeah I ordered it on the 4th.. it got here on the 7th I believe. I contacted the seller earlier today









I was hoping there would be a fix for this.. sigh..


----------



## muppet847

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *muppet847*
> 
> i got my X-star today from Dream-seller. 0 dead pixels but in all my games so far it says the monitor is only refreshing at 59Hz
> 
> 
> 
> If you mean at stock speeds its not uncommon to see 59 on a 60.
Click to expand...

ok, do you think that will affect my ability to overclock though?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Yeah I ordered it on the 4th.. it got here on the 7th I believe. I contacted the seller earlier today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was hoping there would be a fix for this.. sigh..


I also have just noticed that you say you have a *DP2710*?....do you mean you have a D-port?....as in a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPort....with HMDI in and DVI-D in and a d-sub and D-port in sockets?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muppet847*
> 
> ok, do you think that will affect my ability to overclock though?


If you have NOT overclocked it and it is seeing 59hz in your games it is working as intended and bears no relevance to how well it might or might not overclock


----------



## cipp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I also have just noticed that you say you have a *DP2710*?....do you mean you have a D-port?....as in a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPort....with HMDI in and DVI-D in and a d-sub and D-port in sockets?


Naw, the X-STAR DP2710LED. It does not have a display port on it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipp*
> 
> Naw, the X-STAR DP2710LED. It does not have a display port on it
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190


Oh ok


----------



## Xiga

Hey guys,

I've been lurking here for a few weeks, wondering if i should move on one of these monitors myself, and well, I finally did, so i just thought I'd share my experience in case it helps others.

I bought an Ultimate Pixel Perfect one from ExcellentCastle:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261381185662?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

When converted into GBP it was going for about £225 (+£10 P&P) so i offered £200 (a bit cheeky!) and he countered with £215 so i just went for it. The next day i got an automated phonecall from DHL saying i had to pay a whopping great fee of £1.20







in order for it to get on the plane. Did that straight away, and 2 days later it arrived at my work. I should point out, so far i haven't had to pay any Customs fees. It's been 5 days so hopefully i'm in the clear on that one.









I had already pre-bought a UK adapter and a replacement DVI-D cable (i needed one of at least 6ft to reach around my desk). These are what i ordered:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0035PS586/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003U799BQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First things first, how is the screen on this bad boy. Well, i paid for one with zero dead pixels and that's exactly what i got







So I'm over the moon with that. Secondly, does it have some BLB? Yes it does. When i look laterally along the top edge of the frame i can clearly see that it curves outwards. Now i know i could open it up and try and fix this, but seeing as how the BLB is not that major (at least to my eyes) i don't want to risk making things worse. So i'm more than happy with my screen, and i would totally recommend ExcellentCastle as a seller (he also marked the parcel as having a value of $200 rather than £215, although at the moment it looks as though that part didn't matter for me).

I immediately tried OC'ing the monitor to 120Hz and it took it staight up, no questions asked. I tested it on that Chrome site and it validated it for me at 120Hz. I've no desire to try any higher, 120Hz is plenty for me. I've also loaded up a 120Hz ICC profile and the colours are back to normal. So all good








A quick word on the benefits of using a 120Hz refresh rate vs 60Hz whilst just using Windows. I had never actually experienced a high refresh rate before, and i heard that some people are more perceptible to it than others. Well, f00k me, i simply can't believe the difference it has made. Even moving a window around the screen, it now looks as though it is gliding across rather than taking lots of little steps. I will now never go back to 60Hz, i'm hooked! Anyone else out there thinking of taking the plunge, i urge you to do the same, you won't regret it!

So the way i see it is this. For a little over £200 (give or take) you can get a 1440p 120Hz monitor with great colours. Okay so it will come with a little BLB (so what, even Ipads have it!) but as far as i'm aware you can't even buy a 120Hz 1440p monitor anywhere here in the UK, and if you could, imagine the cost! My only fear is that it doesn't last. But if i get 2 years out of it, then i will still consider it money well spent.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiga*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've been lurking here for a few weeks, wondering if i should move on one of these monitors myself, and well, I finally did, so i just thought I'd share my experience in case it helps others.
> 
> I bought an Ultimate Pixel Perfect one from ExcellentCastle:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261381185662?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> When converted into GBP it was going for about £225 (+£10 P&P) so i offered £200 (a bit cheeky!) and he countered with £215 so i just went for it. The next day i got an automated phonecall from DHL saying i had to pay a whopping great fee of £1.20
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in order for it to get on the plane. Did that straight away, and 2 days later it arrived at my work. I should point out, so far i haven't had to pay any Customs fees. It's been 5 days so hopefully i'm in the clear on that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had already pre-bought a UK adapter and a replacement DVI-D cable (i needed one of at least 6ft to reach around my desk). These are what i ordered:
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0035PS586/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003U799BQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> First things first, how is the screen on this bad boy. Well, i paid for one with zero dead pixels and that's exactly what i got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm over the moon with that. Secondly, does it have some BLB? Yes it does. When i look laterally along the top edge of the frame i can clearly see that it curves outwards. Now i know i could open it up and try and fix this, but seeing as how the BLB is not that major (at least to my eyes) i don't want to risk making things worse. So i'm more than happy with my screen, and i would totally recommend ExcellentCastle as a seller (he also marked the parcel as having a value of $200 rather than £215, although at the moment it looks as though that part didn't matter for me).
> 
> I immediately tried OC'ing the monitor to 120Hz and it took it staight up, no questions asked. I tested it on that Chrome site and it validated it for me at 120Hz. I've no desire to try any higher, 120Hz is plenty for me. I've also loaded up a 120Hz ICC profile and the colours are back to normal. So all good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A quick word on the benefits of using a 120Hz refresh rate vs 60Hz whilst just using Windows. I had never actually experienced a high refresh rate before, and i heard that some people are more perceptible to it than others. Well, f00k me, i simply can't believe the difference it has made. Even moving a window around the screen, it now looks as though it is gliding across rather than taking lots of little steps. I will now never go back to 60Hz, i'm hooked! Anyone else out there thinking of taking the plunge, i urge you to do the same, you won't regret it!
> 
> So the way i see it is this. For a little over £200 (give or take) you can get a 1440p 120Hz monitor with great colours. Okay so it will come with a little BLB (so what, even Ipads have it!) but as far as i'm aware you can't even buy a 120Hz 1440p monitor anywhere here in the UK, and if you could, imagine the cost! My only fear is that it doesn't last. But if i get 2 years out of it, then i will still consider it money well spent.


Hi mate glad you have got yourself a good monitor and you have bought the very monitor from the very seller that i have been recommending right now...at this present moment in time and purely from the feedback and reports that we receive on this forum ExcellentCastle has been selling consistently for the last few weeks good standard ultimate pixel perfect monitors with *no* dead or stuck pixels...his ultimate pixel perfects have been perfect and this is why i have been recommending him....at one point i would of recommended accessorieswhole who i bought my pixel perfect screen from..however we have had a few members receiving monitors with defects from accessorieswhole that have been bad enough to have to return them..however i don't believe any of those that were bought were his pixel perfect monitors to be fair to accessorieswhole...i personally am a great believer in pixel perfect from the right seller and i am glad you have done well and have received a great monitor...welcome to the club









Edit: there really is no reason for you to believe this monitor will have a lesser life period than any other branded monitor...the samsung screen that this monitor uses is same screen that is in the top end branded monitors...also overclocking these monitors in my personal opinion should also not shorten its life in anyway as we do not need to raise voltage to overclock them and therefore we are not generating and more heat than the component was designed to withstand...my monitor runs 120hz 24/7 and i don't believe for one minute i am doing it any harm or shorten its life whatsoever!


----------



## loki993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No and if you do as i did and buy pixel perfect one you will have ebay on your side if you do not receive a pixel perfect monitor...then you force the seller to take it back which they don't like to do because of the shipping charges....Anyhow right now i believe if you bought a Ultimate pixel perfect from excellentcastle you would receive a pixel perfect monitor...i also believe he checks them....you however will most likely have backlight bleed though...i believe 99% of them do have BLB and this is the main reason they are A- grade screens.
> 
> However with a bit of self confidence you can strip it down and fix the BLB which is usually only the fact that the screen is sat in a bent frame....then you will own as i do a A+ Grade screen with 100% fixed BLB and you will have an £800 worth PLS screen for only £200 that is capable of overclocking to at least 96hz if not as mine does120hz....
> 
> Forget PWN dimming these screens look and feel incredible at 96hz/120hz with a good ICC profile...where else are you going to get a 120hz PLS screen for £200?.....and as for PWN dimming you would not even notice it if you had it...and in NCX review of the Qnix he said "*I used the LED PWM Testing method from TFT Central's article. Either my Qnix QX2710 does not use LED PWM Dimming or it uses a frequency so high it is not perceivable on camera.*"...and if i remember right i think deads review from Overclock.ru calmed it did have PWN Dimming?
> 
> The up shot of it all is you have to test to find out if you *even* have PWM Dimming or not!...you will not notice anything other than a fantastic looking QHD 2560X1440 screen running at 96hz-120HZ with incredible colors.


any
A few dead pixels are the least of my worries...when I say issues what if the backlight goes out in a few months...or something else like that..thats neither here nor there

about the dimming...the fact is these have been tested and most dont have PWM dimming, a good thing, but they also dont have any backlight dimming at all from what Ive seen. So that great contrast ratio you get out of the box at the eye burning 400 brightness drops about by half when reducing the brightness to a comfortable level......Which kills the blacks. Thats my main issue with them, from what I've seen.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> any
> A few dead pixels are the least of my worries...when I say issues what if the backlight goes out in a few months...or something else like that..thats neither here nor there
> 
> about the dimming...the fact is these have been tested and most dont have PWM dimming, a good thing, but they also dont have any backlight dimming at all from what Ive seen. So that great contrast ratio you get out of the box at the eye burning 400 brightness drops about by half when reducing the brightness to a comfortable level......Which kills the blacks. Thats my main issue with them, from what I've seen.


Only the Achieva line (and not necessarily all the models), some Monoprice models (the newer model seems to have fixed that, partially, or completely) do not have backlight control.

There has been no Qnix out there that has been demonstrated to *not* have backlight control and resort to panel blocking to decrease brightness at the expense of keeping the black level the same (thus lowering the contrast ratio).


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> any
> A few dead pixels are the least of my worries...when I say issues what if the backlight goes out in a few months...or something else like that..thats neither here nor there
> 
> about the dimming...the fact is these have been tested and most dont have PWM dimming, a good thing, but they also dont have any backlight dimming at all from what Ive seen. So that great contrast ratio you get out of the box at the eye burning 400 brightness drops about by half when reducing the brightness to a comfortable level......Which kills the blacks. Thats my main issue with them, from what I've seen.


The max screen brightness is not 400 its 300cd/m also i have not seen a report of anyone's backlight going out after a month and why should they?... these are a high quality samsung panels that are used in many top end branded monitors...also my blacks look fantastic at 200/cdm and even with corrected gamma at 120hz they still look fantastic..

Also as for PWM dimming Deads Qnix had a 160hz frequency.

http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/53718_5/Korejskij_demping_v_nishe_PLS_reshenij._Obzor_i_testirovanie_monitora_QNIX_QX2710.html#19


----------



## sixtyfivedays

I also got the Ultimate Perfect Pixel monitor from excellentcastle. It looks great, no dead pixels, and no noticeable BLB (have yet to look for it). I have only been able to OC it to 96hz but there might be room for more tweaking although I am satisified with that refresh rate for now. Loaded up one of the profiles in the sticky page for 96hz and looks great.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Pretty pissed that I was supposed to get my monitor from the 18th-21st. Now I have an expected delivery date of the 24th. Dream Seller was very slow to ship and did not ship out till 3 days after ordering.


----------



## kornedbeefy

Update,

I overclocked my Qnix to 120hz but it displayed a green horizontal flashing line/s at the top of the screen. I backed it down to 110hz and played BF4 for about 2 hours without issue. So I guess 110hz is my max? Which I'm still happy with.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kornedbeefy*
> 
> Update,
> 
> I overclocked my Qnix to 120hz but it displayed a green horizontal flashing line/s at the top of the screen. I backed it down to 110hz and played BF4 for about 2 hours without issue. So I guess 110hz is my max? Which I'm still happy with.


Have you used any optimized timings for your 120hz profile?...and are you creating your profiles using CRU or NVCP?...CCC?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> I also got the Ultimate Perfect Pixel monitor from excellentcastle. It looks great, no dead pixels, and no noticeable BLB (have yet to look for it). I have only been able to OC it to 96hz but there might be room for more tweaking although I am satisified with that refresh rate for now. Loaded up one of the profiles in the sticky page for 96hz and looks great.


Welcome to the club and i am please you have received a good monitor... have you tried 120hz yet?


----------



## Cyalume

Is the corner-darkening that I'm experiencing on my panel normal? Its only the bottom-right corner.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Is the corner-darkening that I'm experiencing on my panel normal? Its only the bottom-right corner.


Have you overclocked you monitor? if so what HZ are you runing have you used optimized timings for your 120hz.?
.more info the better


----------



## hammelgammler

I really want to try my monitor with a different gpu...
I dont believe my monitor cant hit 120hz 100% stable even with custom timings. The second monitor is also not 100% stable at 120hz (with custom timings).
Tried another gpu (the same exact model as mine) but in fact its a different gpu.
Switched several DVI cable (like 7 or 8) and with only one cable i think i hit 120hz stable with custom timings (which i returned...).
Ordered another 4 1m cable (this) and 3 1.5m cable (this)...
Any suggestions why i get sometimes very little artefacts @120hz with custom timings?

Edit: Could it be that my Spyder 4 can not read my whitepoint accuratly? Even at 60Hz basICColor display 5 says that the native whitepoint is ~6870K. That seems kind of high for me for the qnix... The second monitor has a whitepoint of ~6900K (as the sensor says).
Very often its said that the qnix has a very good native whitepoint at around ~6550K...
Seems weird for me...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I really want to try my monitor with a different gpu...
> I dont believe my monitor cant hit 120hz 100% stable even with custom timings. The second monitor is also not 100% stable at 120hz (with custom timings).
> Tried another gpu (the same exact model as mine) but in fact its a different gpu.
> Switched several DVI cable (like 7 or 8) and with only one cable i think i hit 120hz stable with custom timings (which i returned...).
> Ordered another 4 1m cable (this) and 3 1.5m cable (this)...
> Any suggestions why i get sometimes very little artefacts @120hz with custom timings?
> 
> Edit: Could it be that my Spyder 4 can not read my whitepoint accuratly? Even at 60Hz basICColor display 5 says that the native whitepoint is ~6870K. That seems kind of high for me for the qnix... The second monitor has a whitepoint of ~6900K (as the sensor says).
> Very often its said that the qnix has a very good native whitepoint at around ~6550K...
> Seems weird for me...


Why did you return the only cable that you could hit 120hz with stable ?

I have different readings from different software also...i have read even if you can get to 7000k using monitor RGB OSD when you are trying to set your white point as close to 6500k if you was going to calibrate that is still fine...we dont have OSD but your reading are still good









Also lets say you don't not ever want to calibrate to a white point of 6500k...lets say you was doing photography out doors....basICColor display 5 says you must calibrate to a white point of 5500K so how would feel if your monitor was nearer 6870 then?....it makes no difference at all what your native white point is..its just a reference point to calibrate too.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Why did you return the only cable that you could hit 120hz with stable ?
> 
> Have you check the native white point at 60hz with basICColor display 5 and datacolor and dispcalGU and do they all read about the same?


I was quite shure that i could even go higher with a better cable... And I though with the much thicker one which seemed very high quality (like the lindy) i can even clock higher or reduce my pixel clock even more like Spartan did...

How do i check my whitepoint with dispcal? When i click on "mesure" right next from whitepoint i get an error. I havent tried Spyder4Express software yet... Only display 5 as with dispcal im getting an error...
But yeah even at 60hz the whitepoint is oder 6800K which seems a bit high for me.

Edit: "Error - Got bad cct"

Edit2: Checked again: 7030K! Dafuq? That cant be real?! Thats at 60Hz.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I was quite shure that i could even go higher with a better cable... And I though with the much thicker one which seemed very high quality (like the lindy) i can even clock higher or reduce my pixel clock even more like Spartan did...
> 
> How do i check my whitepoint with dispcal? When i click on "mesure" right next from whitepoint i get an error. I havent tried Spyder4Express software yet... Only display 5 as with dispcal im getting an error...
> But yeah even at 60hz the whitepoint is oder 6800K which seems a bit high for me.
> 
> Edit: "Error - Got bad cct"
> 
> Edit2: Checked again: 7030K! Dafuq? That cant be real?! Thats at 60Hz.


This shows you how to find your native white using datacolor http://www.damiensymonds.com.au/cal_S4P_pc.html

Also you are worrying about things you don't need to worry about... lets say you do not ever want to calibrate to a white point of 6500k...lets say you was doing photography out doors....basICColor display 5 says you must calibrate to a white point of 5500K so how would feel if your monitor was nearer 6870 then?....it makes no difference at all what your native white point is..its just a reference point to calibrate too.

You do not need to be near or close to 6500k...some people never want to calibrate to a white point of 6500k...i only ever calibrate to my native white point which gives me the best results as i am not trying to force my monitor it to a certain white point

Edit: The white point
The white point is the calibration setting on a monitor that determines the color temperature of the brightest white. Color temperature is expressed in Kelvin, eg 6500K. A more accurate unit of measuring color temperature is the so-called standard illuminant, expressed as D50, D65, etc. For most practical purposes you can use either unit of measure with your monitor calibration software. 5000K/D50 and 5500K/D55 are commonly used in CMYK reproduction, and 6500K/D65 is commonly used for general purpose and images on the web.

Native white point
The native white point is the default white point of a monitor. Most high-quality LCD monitors are very close to 6500K. Less expensive monitors and many Windows operating system monitors are quite a bit bluer, having a native white point between *7300K and 9300K.*...so it looks like at your 6800k native white point is from a high-quality LCD monitor!


----------



## Cyalume

Noticed it running at running at 96hz, but its still present at 60hz as well. The bottom right corner is noticably darker than the other corners of the screen.

Affects these areas, roughly:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Noticed it running at running at 96hz, but its still present at 60hz as well. The bottom right corner is noticably darker than the other corners of the screen.
> 
> Affects these areas, roughly:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I can not see the picture you posted but no it is not normal for your screen to be darker on one side to the other at 60hz


----------



## Cyalume

What can I do about it? Should I return it? Mod it? Open it?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> What can I do about it? Should I return it? Mod it? Open it?


Its up to you if you cant live with it take photos show the seller tell him you want to return it....maybe try a different lead if you have one also...

If its not BLB i would not open it to try and fix it...it might be a dirty / damaged diffuser layer...you do not want to mess with them


----------



## kornedbeefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Have you used any optimized timings for your 120hz profile?...and are you creating your profiles using CRU or NVCP?...CCC?


I just used CRU and bumped up the hz. After your response above I went back to the faq and tried the two troubleshooting tips. It just created a different anomaly, a couple light purple blotches. I'll have to research optimized timings since I'm not fimilar with it.

giving you some rep for your help.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kornedbeefy*
> 
> I just used CRU and bumped up the hz. After your response above I went back to the faq and tried the two troubleshooting tips. It just created a different anomaly, a couple light purple blotches. I'll have to research optimized timings since I'm not fimilar with it.
> 
> giving you some rep for your help.


Set your timings and totals the same as these in the my picture below ...this will lower your pixel clock nearer to the 450mhz pixel clock limit and will help you hit 120hz stable


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I was quite shure that i could even go higher with a better cable... And I though with the much thicker one which seemed very high quality (like the lindy) i can even clock higher or reduce my pixel clock even more like Spartan did...
> 
> How do i check my whitepoint with dispcal? When i click on "mesure" right next from whitepoint i get an error. I havent tried Spyder4Express software yet... Only display 5 as with dispcal im getting an error...
> But yeah even at 60hz the whitepoint is oder 6800K which seems a bit high for me.
> 
> Edit: "Error - Got bad cct"
> 
> Edit2: Checked again: 7030K! Dafuq? That cant be real?! Thats at 60Hz.


Native white point
Most high-quality LCD monitors are very close to 6500K. Less expensive monitors and many Windows operating system monitors are quite a bit bluer, having a native white point between 7300K and 9300K

My 60hz native white point 6778k ( very good high quality LCD monitor )



My 120hz native white point 6641k even better! ( very good high quality LCD monitor )



Hammel you should read this also i think you will find it interesting it is TFT Central review of the Asus PB278Q which uses the very same samsung panel as the Qnix....the colour testing temperature section below that and above it will interest you...here is a small section for you..

Default gamma was measured at 2.3 average, leaving it 5% out from the target of 2.2. This was too high in all shades really but particularly in darker greys as shown in the more detailed table above. Incidentally there is a gamma setting in the OSD menu but this only offers options for 2.2 (PC) and 1.8 (Mac) rather than giving you a wider control of the gamma from the screen itself. The white point was measured at 6761k, being only 4% out from the target of 6500k which was pretty good.

Full report:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/asus_pb278q.htm


----------



## majin662

Well did a little more poking around while oc'ing and noticed that at 96hz and at 120hz I get what looks like streaks on the left side...but when going color by color they only appear on certain colors.

For example , on the op test page with full screen colors, they appear only on green (and only when oc'd) on this site they appear on the main page, but on threads and on other pages/colors...nothing.

Tried Lawson's timings but it didn't alleviate the issue. Any ideas or tips where to look, this thread is huge. Doesn't seem to mess with anything but just sticks out and I wanna make sure I don't damage anything


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Welcome to the club and i am please you have received a good monitor... have you tried 120hz yet?


I did try but without adjusting a thing like timings (just set it to 120hz in CRU) and screen went black with some flickering green blocks. Wasn't sure what else I can do in CRU so I backed it down to 96hz


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majin662*
> 
> Well did a little more poking around while oc'ing and noticed that at 96hz and at 120hz I get what looks like streaks on the left side...but when going color by color they only appear on certain colors.
> 
> For example , on the op test page with full screen colors, they appear only on green (and only when oc'd) on this site they appear on the main page, but on threads and on other pages/colors...nothing.
> 
> Tried Lawson's timings but it didn't alleviate the issue. Any ideas or tips where to look, this thread is huge. Doesn't seem to mess with anything but just sticks out and I wanna make sure I don't damage anything


The only other thing i can suggest is trying a different cable...some people have slight screen Uniformity when overclocked it seems most see it on green backgrounds...normally optimized timings and a cable change may help...however you are using my optimized timings so i doubt you will get the pixel clock much lower towards the 450mhz limit...however you are more than welcome to try...so that leaves you with trying another cable...most people don't find this sight screen Uniformity troublesome and for me i only barely notice it and only if i set a green back ground then i have to look hard to see it...in normal use i would never notice it...

However if you are talking about streaks this may not be screen Uniformity ?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> I did try but without adjusting a thing like timings (just set it to 120hz in CRU) and screen went black with some flickering green blocks. Wasn't sure what else I can do in CRU so I backed it down to 96hz


Try these timings in CRU for your 120hz


----------



## majin662

I'll snag a picture of it tomorrow. If it is what you speak of I may just ignore it becauase ,yeah, it doesn't really distract in normal use, real test will be games for me. Thanks Again mang


----------



## rick19011

Am I the only one who suffers from a problem where once overclocked I get green pixels on the right hand side of the screen? like small flashing pixels similar to a vram issue on a gpu, but It's not my GPU that's the problem as I have tried other cards, I can run 120hz with - - Polarity to get rid of the green pixels but then I see the occasional white and red line flashing across the screen...








Tried many different timings posted on here but same issues, as i said green pixels go away when polarity - - but I get the odd white/red flashing line across screen


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try these timings in CRU for your 120hz


This is what I get with those settings.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Has anyone figured out which displayport adapter works best with the X-Star/Qnix? I've heard varying sources claiming that you can't OC with them and others claiming to get 120hz on one of the adapters. Seems like if you can't OC on one of those adapters that I would be best off just buying a displayport variant of the X-Star as my 3rd monitor and just not OCing when in Surround since it would be a lot cheaper.


----------



## Watagump

My new wallpaper.


----------



## tracerit

just overclocked to 96hz mainly for desktop usage since my GTX 780 alone won't take advantage of 120hz in gaming until I SLI in the future. got to say it's nice but I want to see how 120hz is haha. I'm just afraid that going to 120hz will cause irreversible artifacts :/ has there been any reports of such a thing happening? because i have absolutely no dead pixels or BLB and I want to keep it that way


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> I was quite shure that i could even go higher with a better cable... And I though with the much thicker one which seemed very high quality (like the lindy) i can even clock higher or reduce my pixel clock even more like Spartan did...
> 
> How do i check my whitepoint with dispcal? When i click on "mesure" right next from whitepoint i get an error. I havent tried Spyder4Express software yet... Only display 5 as with dispcal im getting an error...
> But yeah even at 60hz the whitepoint is oder 6800K which seems a bit high for me.
> 
> Edit: "Error - Got bad cct"
> 
> Edit2: Checked again: 7030K! Dafuq? That cant be real?! Thats at 60Hz.


I hope you have imported colorimeter corrections from the Spyder4 installation file? There's an option to do that in dispcalGUI. Why is dispcal not working for you?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> This is what I get with those settings.


Its not the timings that are causing that....they can only ever make your 120hz more stable as they are lowering your pixel clock limit towards the 450 limit and will give you a stronger signal!
What graphics card do you have?....have you patched your drivers?.... are you running SLI ....are you using the duel link DVI-D cable?....also not all monitors can hit 120hz


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> just overclocked to 96hz mainly for desktop usage since my GTX 780 alone won't take advantage of 120hz in gaming until I SLI in the future. got to say it's nice but I want to see how 120hz is haha. I'm just afraid that going to 120hz will cause irreversible artifacts :/ has there been any reports of such a thing happening? because i have absolutely no dead pixels or BLB and I want to keep it that way


120Hz will sometimes give me burn-in if I leave something up for a few hours (like a pdf or word doc). The burn-in can only be seen in gray-like backgrounds, so even if I watch a video or play a game, the burn-in will not be visible and it typically goes away after 30mins~1hr of doing other things.

In terms of permanent damage/artifacts, I have not seen any and I've been running my monitor @ 120Hz 24/7 ever since I got this monitor several months ago. Windows does shut down the monitor after a few minutes of idle time, to help the longevity of the monitor.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> just overclocked to 96hz mainly for desktop usage since my GTX 780 alone won't take advantage of 120hz in gaming until I SLI in the future. got to say it's nice but I want to see how 120hz is haha. I'm just afraid that going to 120hz will cause irreversible artifacts :/ has there been any reports of such a thing happening? because i have absolutely no dead pixels or BLB and I want to keep it that way


No there been no reports of that.....and you will not get irreversible artifacts going to 120hz ...neither will you get irreversible artifacts trying to hit 120hz


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Its not the timings that are causing that....they can only ever make your 120hz more stable as they are lowering your pixel clock limit towards the 450 limit and will give you a stronger signal!


Yes they surely can. Tighten the timings too much and the display cannot handle them. Try it, lower your timings further and see what happens. That's generally why timings should be tightened specific to a certain graphics card - monitor combination, manually and via trial & error. There are good starting points like LCD reduced, for example, but going too far with the lower timings will not work for everyone.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Yes they surely can. Tighten the timings too much and the display cannot handle them. Try it, lower your timings further and see what happens. That's generally why timings should be tightened specific to a certain graphics card - monitor combination, manually and via trial & error. There are good starting points like LCD reduced, for example, but going too far with the lower timings will not work for everyone.


I generally tell people to use those timings because they seem to work for most and a lot of people don't know about optimizing timings and therefore just set a 120hz profile with a 480mhz pixel clock which can surly only lessen there chance of hitting 120hz...someone just setting 120hz with a pixel clock of 480 is never going to help them hit 120hz...i understand what you mean as in some people might not be able to go that low however i have no accesses to the OP .."which needs updating".. and to see hear people just setting 120hz without trying to optimize there timings is frustrating and is why i offer those timings which as i have said seem to work for most

I also know i can not lower my timings any further they are optimized for me and i never had anyone since i have been sharing them say that the timings are not working for them...of course some my not be able to hit 120hz...and have artifacts but i don't recall that it was ever becaurse it was those timings...in fact it was ToastyX that suggested the totals to me some time ago when i first got my monitor

BTW: i get artifacts when i try even lower timings...what that guy is getting does not look like aritafcts and i don't believe its the timings that are causing him this issue.


----------



## tracerit

so i just tried 120hz and couldn't tell much of a difference from 96hz so i switched back just for peace of mind. desktop browsing seemed the same, gaming couldn't gauge since I can't hit +100 fps.


----------



## Xiga

Lawson67 I've been using your timings since i got my monitor and they've been working brilliantly at 120Hz for me, so cheers mate.

I have a couple of questions which i hope will be easy enough for someone to answer for me if that's cool. I'll do them in separate posts.

1. I used the instructions in the OP to apply an ICC profile for my 120Hz OC. I'm not using any external programs, just the built-in one in Windows 7. It seems to be working fine, I'm just curious if it's definitely 100% working inside games. I can't say i've noticed Bioshock Infinite looking particulary dull or off-colour (but then it does have a somewhat unusual colour palette for a game, so i could just not be seeing it, unlikely though, game still looks pretty much perfect to my eyes) so i was just wondering if the method i'm using is supposed to work in games or if it's 100% known to NOT work inside games. I've seen a couple of other programs mentioned for applying colour profiles, are people using these for other reasons (e.g auto switching for different refresh rates) or is it because the 'Windows' method is known to bypass games full-stop.
So i'm just curious basically in case my crappy eyes aren't noticing this (probably due to me wearing glasses and also being wowed by 1440p gaming!)


----------



## Xiga

On to my 2nd question.

2. Ok let's talk drivers. I just received my shiny new Palit GTX 780 ti Jetstream last weekend (was upgrading from SLI GTX 560 ti's). It's an absolute beast of a card (had to perform some minor surgery to get it to fit into my case!) but the thing flies and i'm loving the performance and overall lower power draw and heat in my system now. Luckily i was prepared in advance and knew that the Qnix doesn't have a scaler, meaning when i uninstalled my previous drivers i had to have my old 23" 1080p panel on hand to get the new drivers installed.

Now, the question is what happens when new drivers get released? (which happens all the time!). I know i will need to re-patch and re-do my 120Hz profiles in NVCP each time (i don't use CRU, i prefer to use NVCP and the Qnix.ini file), but the point in question is, i like to use DDU to completely wipe my drivers and start from scratch each time. Which will surely mean i will always have to have my old 1080p panel to hand, yes? If so this will be somewhat irritating. I would ideally like to store it away somewhere, as my desk can't really accommodate both monitors 24/7. What do other people do as regards this? If i choose the option to just install a new driver over the old one without uninstalling (or without ticking the 'Clean install' option) will i be ok? Also bare in mind i can't use Geforce Experience. I tried using it a couple of times and kept getting BSOD's so i have given up on it completely (never used it before anyway).

Am i missing something obvious? Thoughts most welcome peeps.

Cheers!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xiga*
> 
> On to my 2nd question.
> 
> 2. Ok let's talk drivers. I just received my shiny new Palit GTX 780 ti Jetstream last weekend (was upgrading from SLI GTX 560 ti's). It's an absolute beast of a card (had to perform some minor surgery to get it to fit into my case!) but the thing flies and i'm loving the performance and overall lower power draw and heat in my system now. Luckily i was prepared in advance and knew that the Qnix doesn't have a scaler, meaning when i uninstalled my previous drivers i had to have my old 23" 1080p panel on hand to get the new drivers installed.
> 
> Now, the question is what happens when new drivers get released? (which happens all the time!). I know i will need to re-patch and re-do my 120Hz profiles in NVCP each time (i don't use CRU, i prefer to use NVCP and the Qnix.ini file), but the point in question is, i like to use DDU to completely wipe my drivers and start from scratch each time. Which will surely mean i will always have to have my old 1080p panel to hand, yes? If so this will be somewhat irritating. I would ideally like to store it away somewhere, as my desk can't really accommodate both monitors 24/7. What do other people do as regards this? If i choose the option to just install a new driver over the old one without uninstalling (or without ticking the 'Clean install' option) will i be ok? Also bare in mind i can't use Geforce Experience. I tried using it a couple of times and kept getting BSOD's so i have given up on it completely (never used it before anyway).
> 
> Am i missing something obvious? Thoughts most welcome peeps.
> 
> Cheers!


For your first question i use Color Sustainer which you can download from the link below where you can read the thread and the benefits of using it over windows colour management especially when running games...also you could use color profile keeper and if you check the *lock profile* box on the front of the app it will try to force all applications and games to use and not allow them to drop or reset your ICC profile....which i have put a download link to below...you only need to choose one of these apps do not try to run both together...use one at a time and see which app you feel best suits your need









As for when new drivers get released i personally would unpatch my drivers " however ToastyX the creator of the patcher and CRU says there is no need to unpatch them as the new drivers will override the patch anyhow"...then i would delete my custom resolutions reboot and then install my new drivers...i do not believe you need to change monitors when you uninstall your drivers your graphics card should set standard VGA mode in-between installing your new drivers...however i just let Nvidia install my driver with the previous drivers installed and it uninstalls the old ones and installs the new one all in one hit...never had any problems with it!.....then i have re-patched my updated drivers and set my custom profiles again using my timings for my 120hz....this method worked flawlessly for me when i last updated my drivers!....
Also i do not believe you need another monitor to update your drivers even if you do use a driver cleaner...i have never used another monitor and i have updated my drivers just fine...Also i have booted into windows using my monitor with no Nvidia drivers installed when i first got this monitor and it was fine...i just had a very low resolution.

Color Sustainer download here:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=4758590

Color profile keeper

cpk_05.zip 3555k .zip file


Edit: Here are my 120hz and 96hz ICC profiles...i made these at a brightness of 200 cd/m which for the 120hz profile is about 18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI+ button... and about 17 clicks up from a black screen for the 96hz icc profile









Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


----------



## Spartan F8

FYI

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> FYI
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190


Not bad!


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Its not the timings that are causing that....they can only ever make your 120hz more stable as they are lowering your pixel clock limit towards the 450 limit and will give you a stronger signal!
> What graphics card do you have?....have you patched your drivers?.... are you running SLI ....are you using the duel link DVI-D cable?....also not all monitors can hit 120hz


I have a 7970 with patched drivers, using the cable they sent me.


----------



## hammelgammler

Could it be that the current driver plays huge role in overclocking of the monitor? (Im using AMD driver)
With 13.6 i could oc "higher", before massive artefacts appeared. With 14.1 beta i get a huge amount of artefacts that didnt appeared with 13.6 when oc to lets say 121hz (stock timings).
With 13.6 there were very small lines which appeared sometimes... With 14.1 there are "everywhere" over the screen.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> FYI
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190


I ordered one of these last week with high hopes of getting it in just a few days like it seems many have but unfortunately tracking is showing a delivery date of next Monday. Nevertheless, I'll patiently wait and hope that the quality of the product is good. When I finally receive it I'll properly join the club and update


----------



## Moosebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> FYI
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190


Just got mine yesterday. No dead/stuck pixels, minimal backlight bleed. Easily overclocked to 120hz with lawson67's timings.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

OK apparently Fedex was completely wrong. They said next Monday delivery, but I just got it delivered right now... about to start her up and test


----------



## spikexp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> FYI
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190


Bought one Friday in the evening and I should be receiving it today.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> OK apparently Fedex was completely wrong. They said next Monday delivery, but I just got it delivered right now... about to start her up and test


I was hoping this was the case







Now you've got me all excited!. I hope I get mine today as well.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So Dream Seller apparently doesn't include an adapter for USA power... where the hell am I supposed to get one of those now?


----------



## basill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So Dream Seller apparently doesn't include an adapter for USA power... where the hell am I supposed to get one of those now?


Just use a standard computer power cable.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *basill*
> 
> Just use a standard computer power cable.


That works?


----------



## basill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Could it be that the current driver plays huge role in overclocking of the monitor? (Im using AMD driver)
> With 13.6 i could oc "higher", before massive artefacts appeared. With 14.1 beta i get a huge amount of artefacts that didnt appeared with 13.6 when oc to lets say 121hz (stock timings).
> With 13.6 there were very small lines which appeared sometimes... With 14.1 there are "everywhere" over the screen.


I had the same results overclocking with both the 13.6 and 14.1 drivers. Perhaps it has something to do with your particular video card? I'm using a 7970.


----------



## basill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> That works?


Yeah, the power brick has the standard three prong connector like on a PC power supply.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *basill*
> 
> Yeah, the power brick has the standard three prong connector like on a PC power supply.


I did that and the power led flashed red after about a second or two and the monitor never turned on.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I did that and the power led flashed red after about a second or two and the monitor never turned on.


Push the on "power" button


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> push the on power button


Yeah that was after pushing on... it turns on blue then flashes red


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yeah that was after pushing on... it turns on blue then flashes red


Sounds like a silly question but your desktop is on right?....duel link cable on tight?....if so maybe power brick fault!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Ok I got it working thanks Lawson. You were right about the Dvi cable my other one wasn't going on tight and the one that came with it did and it worked. Can't see any dead pixels or backlight bleed on the tests that I did either. It's amazing! Now to test for overclocking.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Ok I got it working thanks Lawson. You were right about the Dvi cable my other one wasn't going on tight and the one that came with it did and it worked. Can't see any dead pixels or backlight bleed on the tests that I did either. It's amazing! Now to test for overclocking.


No problem mate glad you got it sorted and its sounds like you have got a good monitor also fantastic and welcome to the club


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Ok I got it working thanks Lawson. You were right about the Dvi cable my other one wasn't going on tight and the one that came with it did and it worked. Can't see any dead pixels or backlight bleed on the tests that I did either. It's amazing! Now to test for overclocking.


Hey, as I see people aren't putting their information on the 1st topic anymore about their monitors where they bought it, problems, price and such...
So, I want to ask you, from which seller you bought it and was it 0 dead pixel in description? And the price?








Thanks!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> Hey, as I see people aren't putting their information on the 1st topic anymore about their monitors where they bought it, problems, price and such...
> So, I want to ask you, from which seller you bought it and was it 0 dead pixel in description? And the price?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I got mine from Dream Seller. The X-Star on sale for 279.99.

Does anyone know why I am still only showing 60 FPS on the frame skipping tests? I made a CRU profile just like the one Lawson says to make, got the update for Nvidia driver to allow 120hz, and then made a custom resolution for 120hz on the Nvidia control panel. My gamma shifted and all (updated my ICC), but it is still saying 60 fps on the frame skip test. What did I do wrong?


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I got mine from Dream Seller. The X-Star on sale for 279.99.
> 
> Does anyone know why I am still only showing 60 FPS on the frame skipping tests? I made a CRU profile just like the one Lawson says to make, got the update for Nvidia driver to allow 120hz, and then made a custom resolution for 120hz on the Nvidia control panel. My gamma shifted and all (updated my ICC), but it is still saying 60 fps on the frame skip test. What did I do wrong?


The frameskip test doesn't work for me either, but I am running at a verified 120 hz. Don't worry about it, these don't skip frames.

Are you using Firefox? I see 120 on Chrome, but Firefox shows 60. Also, don't run the browser maximized and don't let the window touch any of the corners of the screen during the test.


----------



## lawson67

Just to let you guys no that i have just successfully installed the new Nvidia drivers that have just come out 334.89 and re-applied my 96hz and 120hz profiles without any problems via NVCP









Edit: patcher is saying SLI Limit old and new not found?....everything seem fine without SLI think i shall pop over to toastyX forum and ask his advice as the patch might not be fully comptable with the new drivers as regards SLI?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> The frameskip test doesn't work for me either, but I am running at a verified 120 hz. Don't worry about it, these don't skip frames.
> 
> Are you using Firefox? I see 120 on Chrome, but Firefox shows 60. Also, don't run the browser maximized and don't let the window touch any of the corners of the screen during the test.


Nope Chrome. So I just need to try lower the size of the browser then? I'll give it a shot.

Edit: Still shows 60 fps on skip test.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Nice explanation for the group Lawson. I just wish your explanation was on the front page.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rep.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes thank you Osteoman there have been so many things i would like to have posted in the OP!..i believe it could greatly benefit from an update!.. which would help many new members out with problems like the one i have just encountered...and also my bent frame guide in the OP would be nice and could help many people out...also i believe it would stop many people having to ask the same questions over and over and over again with these posts being lost in this near 1400 page thread!....and with the search facility being far from perfect!


Reading through the thread is tough but definitely worth it. There is a TON of info that is not in the OP. In fact when I first got my Qnix I couldn't figure out how to OC it from the OP so I made my own step-by-step guide by cobbling together bits and pieces of info from here and there. I posted my guide (now buried beneath the sands of time and page counts) and instantly got a bunch of rep.

Big thanks to Lawson (and many others including Spartan) for doing the deep dive and then showing us how to do cool stuff with these monitors.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Good choice tell him to mark it down as $200 instead of £200 i did and it helps a lot with import tax
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overclocking it to 120hz should not damage it in anyway as you are not rasing any voltage and so therefore are not generating any more heat..this is my personal opion and i run at 120hz 24/7 and I do not believe i am shortening its life in anyway than that of any other branded monitor


Raising frequency does generate more heat. Running my CPU at 3.5GHz vs. 4.5GHz with the exact same voltage produces significantly more heat at 4.5.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Ok I figured it out again. I wasn't selecting the "custom" resolution under NVCP and instead was using the native. After fixing that I now get 120hz working perfectly using the ICC and CRU profile Lawson has listed in this thread. It even works with the DVI-D cable that came with it. Jackpot!!


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Ok I figured it out again. I wasn't selecting the "custom" resolution under NVCP and instead was using the native. After fixing that I now get 120hz working perfectly using the ICC and CRU profile Lawson has listed in this thread. It even works with the DVI-D cable that came with it. Jackpot!!


Glad to hear you have it working. Welcome to the club!! The club you can never leave because you are now spoiled!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Just to let you guys no that i have just successfully installed the new Nvidia drivers that have just come out 334.89 and re-applied my 96hz and 120hz profiles without any problems via NVCP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: patcher is saying SLI Limit old and new not found?....everything seem fine without SLI think i shall pop over to toastyX forum and ask his advice as the patch might not be fully comptable with the new drivers as regards SLI?


Right everything is working ok now with the new Nvidia drivers 334.89 i just needed to get ToastyX new patcher nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2.5.zip...link below if you have not already got it









http://www.monitortests.com/nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2.5.zip


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *basill*
> 
> I had the same results overclocking with both the 13.6 and 14.1 drivers. Perhaps it has something to do with your particular video card? I'm using a 7970.


I have a 7950.

Im one foot away to buy this cable right here.
But 78€ for an DVI cable?
I could also buy one of these. Heard "only good things" about the Monoprice DVI cable. But that would be 1.8m instead of 1.5m. Well it would have the advantage of 24AWG vs whatever the Oehlbach one has, but i dont think its 24AWG...
The Monoprice one would be 25€...
The Lindy Gold DVI cable seems also very good (one member had 120hz with stock cable and 135hz with a lindy gold 3m! dvi cable). But that would be only 1m or 2m and 1m is a bit short for me... I dont want the tower directly at me feets...
Would be interesting how the Oehlbach performs as it has a "silvered copper wire" instead of the other cables only a wire out of copper.
Well maybe i will wait until i bought a new gpu... Maybe the gpu cant handle more... As I mentioned sometimes before i tested the gpu with 3 different monitors and with everyone i got the nearly the same resutls.
I mean that monoprice one looks huuuge damn.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Glad to hear you have it working. Welcome to the club!! The club you can never leave because you are now spoiled!


Thanks. I did notice though that when testing with Dota 2 it seemed much darker than it used to. The regular desktop looks plenty bright, but Dota doesn't. It also for some reason is vsyncing to 60 hz instead of 120. Strange.


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Thanks. I did notice though that when testing with Dota 2 it seemed much darker than it used to. The regular desktop looks plenty bright, but Dota doesn't. It also for some reason is vsyncing to 60 hz instead of 120. Strange.


I have this issue as well. Vsync disabled, both in windowed and full screen.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Thanks. I did notice though that when testing with Dota 2 it seemed much darker than it used to. The regular desktop looks plenty bright, but Dota doesn't. It also for some reason is vsyncing to 60 hz instead of 120. Strange.


Yes, you have to make or download color profiles to combat the change in gamma you get at the higher clocks. Search Lawson67 posts for very clear explanations on how to do this and note even within the last couple of pages are explanations from Lawson as well as links for the programs that will "lock in" these color profiles for games.

Also, I have noticed some games do have settings for changing to the appropriate resolution/refresh rate in game. DOTA 2 may have this. I don't play that game, so not sure.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Yes, you have to make or download color profiles to combat the change in gamma you get at the higher clocks. Search Lawson67 posts for very clear explanations on how to do this and note even within the last couple of pages are explanations from Lawson as well as links for the programs that will "lock in" these color profiles for games.
> 
> Also, I have noticed some games do have settings for changing to the appropriate resolution/refresh rate in game. DOTA 2 may have this. I don't play that game, so not sure.


Yeah I already applied Lawson's ICC for 120hz. It looks fantastic everywhere but in the games I have tested they seem dark. I don't see anywhere in Dota to change the refresh rate, only resolution and the other typical graphics options.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yeah I already applied Lawson's ICC for 120hz. It looks fantastic everywhere but in the games I have tested they seem dark. I don't see anywhere in Dota to change the refresh rate, only resolution and the other typical graphics options.


DotA 2 uses the Windows Desktop set refresh rate. Add -nogammaramp to DotA 2's launch options in Steam and it should not ignore your set color profile.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> DotA 2 uses the Windows Desktop set refresh rate. Add -nogammaramp to DotA 2's launch options in Steam and it should not ignore your set color profile.


Sweet thanks a lot man! Works perfectly now.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Sweet thanks a lot man! Works perfectly now.


That's great. So what ICC Profile application are you using


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Reading through the thread is tough but definitely worth it. There is a TON of info that is not in the OP. In fact when I first got my Qnix I couldn't figure out how to OC it from the OP so I made my own step-by-step guide by cobbling together bits and pieces of info from here and there. I posted my guide (now buried beneath the sands of time and page counts) and instantly got a bunch of rep.
> 
> Big thanks to Lawson (and many others including Spartan) for doing the deep dive and then showing us how to do cool stuff with these monitors.


Thank you very much...i just enjoy sharing what i have learnt and helping as many other people as i can get as much pleasure out of there new monitor that i have got out of mine









Also i know that Spartan has been here from day one and has vast fountain of knowledge to share far more than myself!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That's great. So what ICC Profile application are you using


Uhh well none at the moment. I just put an ICC in my windows color folder that Lawson had listed on here. I guess you're the one who made Color Sustainer? I'm not really sure what to do with that program at the moment and every time I open it my gamma shifts.


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> DotA 2 uses the Windows Desktop set refresh rate. Add -nogammaramp to DotA 2's launch options in Steam and it should not ignore your set color profile.


Is that true for the refresh rate too? My refresh rate is set to 96hz in CCC but it doesn't seem to apply to Dota.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Uhh well none at the moment. I just put an ICC in my windows color folder that Lawson had listed on here. I guess you're the one who made Color Sustainer? I'm not really sure what to do with that program at the moment and every time I open it my gamma shifts.


Mmmm, if you're using an AMD card there's an immediate benefit in avoiding Windows color profile loader and using an external loader.

Yep, I made Color Sustainer. You will need to copy the profile somewhere safe, remove the profile from Windows loader, and set it up via a 3rd-party loader. That way, you can set back color profiles which a game *overrides* (resets). Lawson knows how to explain this better lol, I'll leave it up to him if he wants to explain it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> Is that true for the refresh rate too? My refresh rate is set to 96hz in CCC but it doesn't seem to apply to Dota.


Definitely. I find it weird that Dota 2 doesn't take 96Hz automatically. Try to VSync and see what FPS you get?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Mmmm, if you're using an AMD card there's an immediate benefit in avoiding Windows color profile loader and using an external loader.
> 
> Yep, I made Color Sustainer. You will need to copy the profile somewhere safe, remove the profile from Windows loader, and set it up via a 3rd-party loader. That way, you can set back color profiles which a game *overrides* (resets). Lawson knows how to explain this better lol, I'll leave it up to him if he wants to explain it.
> Definitely. I find it weird that Dota 2 doesn't take 96Hz automatically. Try to VSync and see what FPS you get?


Ahh I see. I am currently using Nvidia but I just ordered a 290x so I will be switching over to the dark side. Though I do notice that color sustainer doesn't see a 120hz refresh rate profile, it only shows 59 and 60 which is why I didn't go any further with it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Ahh I see. I am currently using Nvidia but I just ordered a 290x so I will be switching over to the dark side. Though I do notice that color sustainer doesn't see a 120hz refresh rate profile, it only shows 59 and 60 which is why I didn't go any further with it.


That's strange, can you please show me a screenshot?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That's strange, can you please show me a screenshot?


Actually it was my mistake and I fixed it. I hadn't clicked the detect button since I got the 120hz working right and now it shows up. I'll look into using this instead of the windows loader.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Actually it was my mistake and I fixed it. I hadn't clicked the detect button since I got the 120hz working right and now it shows up. I'll look into using this instead of the windows loader.


That's a relief.


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Definitely. I find it weird that Dota 2 doesn't take 96Hz automatically. Try to VSync and see what FPS you get?


Weird, I get 120fps and no higher. I think I have something setup weird with CRU and CCC, I will have to fiddle with it tonight.

edit:

Apparently for Dota 2 you can set the "max_fps" in an autoexec.cfg from 60 to 96 or 120 (or whatever your refresh rate). Hope this helps out other people. I think FRAPS is just bugging out for me, it says I get 120fps in everything.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixtyfivedays*
> 
> Weird, I get 120fps and no higher. I think I have something setup weird with CRU and CCC, I will have to fiddle with it tonight.
> 
> edit:
> 
> Apparently for Dota 2 you can set the "max_fps" in an autoexec.cfg from 60 to 96 or 120 (or whatever your refresh rate). Hope this helps out other people. I think FRAPS is just bugging out for me, it says I get 120fps in everything.


fraps isn't bugging out. the problem is the game isn't synced to your monitors refresh rate one way or another. or there is an FPS cap within the game itself like Outlast.

BTW how bad is the matte coating on the xstar? i'm thinking about buying another since the glossy versions are running scarce and they're like $700+ now. i remember reading it was semi-glossy but things could have changed since 7 months ago.


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> fraps isn't bugging out. the problem is the game isn't synced to your monitors refresh rate one way or another.


Not sure why it would show 120fps cap though? I have it set to 96hz but I don't have vsync on or anything. I have a 120hz setting due to one of my CRU profiles that doesn't work, could be causing it?


----------



## kefan77

for you people out there who bought X-STAR DP2710LED

how many dead pixels did your unit have and what sort of backlight bleed? did you pay extra for perfect pixel screen?

are the bad pixels noticeable or should I just not worry at all?

thanks


----------



## spikexp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kefan77*
> 
> how many dead pixels did your unit have and what sort of backlight bleed? did you pay extra for perfect pixel screen?
> 
> are the bad pixels noticeable or should I just not worry at all?


No dead pixel (that I can see, but they are so small I might miss some).
A little backlight bleed on the top, but just visible in a dark room with full brightness.

Overclocked to 120hz on the first try.

Which color profile do you people use for qnix/x-star at 120hz?


----------



## ackblom

I received my Pixel Perfect monitor from Accessorieswhole. It is pixel perfect indeed but it has blue and red tint that are visible on white backgrounds. Basically the colour temperature varies across the screen - the left part of it is visibly colder than the right part. The faulty panel that I sent back didn't seem to have that issue. Can any of you please check if white colour uniformity varies on your screens?

I mean this:

http://i.imgur.com/yOyPZpD.jpg

You can see a blue (8000K?) patch on the left side of the screen. It's difficult to take a good picture of it but it's very perceivable in reality. You can clearly see that there is some red tint to the whole screen except for that area and top right corner. The top right corner is not that bad though.

I tried several colour profiles but was not able to compensate for that blue patch.

Should I try to get a replacement of just live with it?

I already posted this in another thread but think it makes more sense to post it here.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikexp*
> 
> No dead pixel (that I can see, but they are so small I might miss some).
> A little backlight bleed on the top, but just visible in a dark room with full brightness.
> 
> Overclocked to 120hz on the first try.
> 
> Which color profile do you people use for qnix/x-star at 120hz?


Here are my 120hz and 96hz ICC profiles...i made these at a brightness of 200 cd/m which for the 120hz profile is about 18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI+ button... and about 17 clicks up from a black screen for the 96hz icc profile

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


BTW: glad that you are happy with your monitor and welcome to the club









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackblom*
> 
> I received my Pixel Perfect monitor from Accessorieswhole. It is pixel perfect indeed but it has blue and red tint that are visible on white backgrounds. Basically the colour temperature varies across the screen - the left part of it is visibly colder than the right part. The faulty panel that I sent back didn't seem to have that issue. Can any of you please check if white colour uniformity varies on your screens?
> 
> I mean this:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/yOyPZpD.jpg
> 
> You can see a blue (8000K?) patch on the left side of the screen. It's difficult to take a good picture of it but it's very perceivable in reality. You can clearly see that there is some red tint to the whole screen except for that area and top right corner. The top right corner is not that bad though.
> 
> I tried several colour profiles but was not able to compensate for that blue patch.
> 
> Should I try to get a replacement of just live with it?
> 
> I already posted this in another thread but think it makes more sense to post it here.


Are you only getting this when overclocked?...it is known that some people can have screen uniformity when overclocked which can normally be seen on a solid green background in the top right hand corner...some people have found that optimizing there timings and a change of cable has helped...also most have to look to find it and so therefore have decided to live with it...i can only see mine in a solid green background only at 120hz and really have to look hard for it...in normal use i never ever see it....however if you have this at 60hz it is for you to decide weather you can live with it of not...


----------



## ackblom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Are you only getting this when overclocked?...it is known that some people can have screen uniformity when overclocked which can normally be seen on a solid green background in the top right hand corner...some people have found that optimizing there timings and a change of cable has helped...also most have to look to find it and so therefore have decided to live with it...i can only see mine in a solid green background only at 120hz and really have to look hard for it...in normal use i never ever see it....however if you have this at 60hz it is for you to decide weather you can live with it of not...


Nope, I get that at 60Hz with every single colour profile that I could find.

The seller is trying to convince me that some uniformity problems are normal but this is a problem with tinting rather than uniformity. I was wondering if anyone else had it at default clocks. Also, the issue isn't more pronounced at 96Hz.

Not sure how I could work the timings to see if I could make it a bit better but surely this kind of problem shouldn't be visible at 60Hz, should it?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackblom*
> 
> Nope, I get that at 60Hz with every single colour profile that I could find.
> 
> The seller is trying to convince me that some uniformity problems are normal but this is a problem with tinting rather than uniformity. I was wondering if anyone else had it at default clocks. Also, the issue isn't more pronounced at 96Hz.
> 
> Not sure how I could work the timings to see if I could make it a bit better but surely this kind of problem shouldn't be visible at 60Hz, should it?


The timings should only apply if you are overclocked as in some cases screen uniformity can be seen when overclocked....however most do not have screen uniformity at 60hz...i would try a change of cable if i had one laying around...and if i felt i could not live with this screen uniformity then i would argue my point with the seller!... if you are not getting anywhere with the seller and you bought through Ebay you could consider opening a case with Ebay.


----------



## ackblom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The timings should only apply if you are overclocked as in some cases screen uniformity can be seen when overclocked....however most do not have screen uniformity at 60hz...i would try a change of cable if i had one laying around...and if i felt i could not live with this screen uniformity then i would argue my point with the seller!... if you are not getting anywhere with the seller and you bought through Ebay you could consider opening a case with Ebay.


I don't really have to look for it. The blue tint is clearly visible if I open gmail with default colours or just go to Amazon website - the left part of the screen seems to be colder and blueish.

Already opened a case on eBay but the seller is trying to convince me this is normal.

I'll try a different cable today. Doubt it will help but it's always worth trying. Thanks a lot mate.


----------



## digitalforce

Was LOVING my Qnix 120hz monitor until I took it to a friends house who has a classic Yamakasi Catleap. The glossy screen on the Catleap make the black levels much deeper and the colors pop more. I am really debating what to do..

My Qnix overclocks perfectly to 120hz, no dead pixels, minimal lightbleed. Would that resell for much on eBay?


----------



## Emjas

This morning, my DP2710 developed an issue:

I turned on my computer, and walked away to get breakfast. I came back and the screen was flickering. I think I had bumped my DVI connector, and it was loose (I switch it between two computers, so it gets moved back and forth daily).

I plug in the connector securely, and the right-side inner quadrant (one quarter of the screen top-to-bottom) of the screen is full of red and green vertical lines









I've tried unplugging the monitor, plugging it into my other computer, and a different DVI cable and I still see the red/green line artifacts







Additionally, if I unplug the DVI entirely, and it goes into the default "show a bunch of colors in sequence" routine, it still shows it, so it's definitely not the cable.

For the hell of it, I tried overclocking it slightly at this point, to see if it was some sort of clock issue that could be resolved by changing it back and forth, but no luck... I hadn't overclocked it at all before this.

I've had the monitor for approximately 4 months, am I screwed?

Thanks.

EDIT: The lines have faded over the course of a couple of hours, hopefully will continue fading out back to normal again. Leaving the solution (just wait) here in case this helps someone.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Was LOVING my Qnix 120hz monitor until I took it to a friends house who has a classic Yamakasi Catleap. The glossy screen on the Catleap make the black levels much deeper and the colors pop more. I am really debating what to do..
> 
> My Qnix overclocks perfectly to 120hz, no dead pixels, minimal lightbleed. Would that resell for much on eBay?


Hard to say, shipping it might make you take a big hit.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Hard to say, shipping it might make you take a big hit.


Roger that -- I will have to look to see what my options are.

Has anyone tried the Yamakasi Sparta 300/301 30" or the latest AH-IPS 27" and how they compare to the Qnix?


----------



## Moosebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kefan77*
> 
> for you people out there who bought X-STAR DP2710LED
> 
> how many dead pixels did your unit have and what sort of backlight bleed? did you pay extra for perfect pixel screen?
> 
> are the bad pixels noticeable or should I just not worry at all?
> 
> thanks


No dead/stuck pixels, tiny bit of backlight bleed on bottom edge and corner (really not that bad though). Did not get pixel perfect, just the basic one onsale for $279US.


----------



## Cyalume

Is there a way to get rid of darkened corners similar to the way that backlight bleed is fixed by opening the panel?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kefan77*
> 
> for you people out there who bought X-STAR DP2710LED
> 
> how many dead pixels did your unit have and what sort of backlight bleed? did you pay extra for perfect pixel screen?
> 
> are the bad pixels noticeable or should I just not worry at all?
> 
> thanks


0 dead pixels and no visible blb. No I just bought the 279.99 up to 5 dead version.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kefan77*
> 
> for you people out there who bought X-STAR DP2710LED
> 
> how many dead pixels did your unit have and what sort of backlight bleed? did you pay extra for perfect pixel screen?
> 
> are the bad pixels noticeable or should I just not worry at all?
> 
> thanks


Just received mine today. I'll let you know when i plug it in later tonight.

EDIT** OOHHH the glorious pixels!

I got it. It's working. And it looks magnificent. I can't find any dead pixels and no noticeable back light bleed. I did notice some faint horizontal lines on a black screen but not enough to bother me.

Also, I set 120hz in nvidia control panel and it works no problem. Not really sure if it's actually working at 120hz but the settings went through fine.

EDIT again: The blur busters motion test website confirms 120hz









Also, just noticed @ 120hz on a grey screen there is some sort of artifacting on the top right of the screen. kind of like a dancing interference sorta of movement horizontally.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So far in the games I have tested I am absolutely loving 120hz. Haven't tested in much (waiting for my R9-290x to arrive tomorrow), but the difference is night and day. The only weird thing is it seems switching screens has completely blown up Dark Souls for me. It no longer loads and just flickers on a black screen over and over till you kill it. Trying to figure out what has broken this at the moment.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So far in the games I have tested I am absolutely loving 120hz. Haven't tested in much (waiting for my R9-290x to arrive tomorrow), but the difference is night and day. The only weird thing is it seems switching screens has completely blown up Dark Souls for me. It no longer loads and just flickers on a black screen over and over till you kill it. Trying to figure out what has broken this at the moment.


If your forcing a colour profile, it could be that. I'd wait for confirmation but certain games don't like this and I believe what you just described is the usual outcome. Lawson had this issue with Metro:LL I believe. Try running without the forced profile and see if that let's the game run.

Edit: if you're playing it through Steam, try adding -nogammaramp to the launch options also.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> If your forcing a colour profile, it could be that. I'd wait for confirmation but certain games don't like this and I believe what you just described is the usual outcome. Lawson had this issue with Metro:LL I believe. Try running without the forced profile and see if that let's the game run.


Does it also cause the game to not sync with the cloud though? That's what happens for me in Dark Souls at the moment. Wondering if it is completely unrelated to the monitor change. Was working fine about 4 days ago.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Does it also cause the game to not sync with the cloud though? That's what happens for me in Dark Souls at the moment. Wondering if it is completely unrelated to the monitor change. Was working fine about 4 days ago.


I wouldn't have thought cloud sync would be in any way related to this issue. Basically the game is just throwing a hissy fit when you try to override the gamma ramp with your own, a lot are fine with this though. I think @yasamoka has a list of games that do this along with the app he created. I forgot to bookmark the page though... doh!







I think that should be able to shed some light on the situation.


----------



## yasamoka

Oh hey, friend has Dark Souls. I'll get him to test how it treats color profiles now. Will be back.

Link to Color Sustainer:
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325

Feedback is not welcome, it is *necessary*!


----------



## Barten

Best way to split the DVI for 2 inputs?

I'm looking for a splitter so i can have 2 devices hooked up to this monitor. All the DVI switches i am finding dont do [email protected] Anyone have a solution to this?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barten*
> 
> Best way to split the DVI for 2 inputs?
> 
> I'm looking for a splitter so i can have 2 devices hooked up to this monitor. All the DVI switches i am finding dont do [email protected] Anyone have a solution to this?


Not gonna find. You'll need double the crazy bandwidth for that. Splitters can barely do a standard pixel clock, let alone double at least 450MHz with dual-link.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Oh hey, friend has Dark Souls. I'll get him to test how it treats color profiles now. Will be back.
> 
> Link to Color Sustainer:
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325
> 
> Feedback is not welcome, it is *necessary*!


Thanks. I switched over to color sustainer and will give feedback after a while.


----------



## Barten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Not gonna find. You'll need double the crazy bandwidth for that. Splitters can barely do a standard pixel clock, let alone double at least 450MHz with dual-link.


what about a simple switch? i cant seem to find one


----------



## Barten

i dont need them both to be on at the same time, i just want a better solution than manualy plugging in the source i want.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Thanks. I switched over to color sustainer and will give feedback after a while.


Bah, seems the game ignores color profiles. Friend is still trying. Sheesh...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barten*
> 
> what about a simple switch? i cant seem to find one


Hmm, not sure. Thing is, many thick cables already artifact at 2560x1440 120Hz. A simple switch would still be worse.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

I got Dark Souls to work with some help from the Steam community forum. I just had to change the resolution and refresh rate in the game's hidden config file in Appdata.


----------



## MrHanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Here are my 120hz and 96hz ICC profiles...i made these at a brightness of 200 cd/m which for the 120hz profile is about 18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI+ button... and about 17 clicks up from a black screen for the 96hz icc profile
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


is there a way, to see if the profile is aktiv?^^ get a bit confuesed


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I got Dark Souls to work with some help from the Steam community forum. I just had to change the resolution and refresh rate in the game's hidden config file in Appdata.


OK, so it started up. Set some tints (in Color Sustainer) for the display modes (resolution + refresh rate) that it might be using (just to make sure) and load the game. Does it remain tinted or does it revert back to normal?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> OK, so it started up. Set some tints (in Color Sustainer) for the display modes (resolution + refresh rate) that it might be using (just to make sure) and load the game. Does it remain tinted or does it revert back to normal?


Uhh this might sound like a noobish question but how does one set tints in Color Sustainer? Do you mean just use the pre-defined profiles then test it?


----------



## rjeftw

Ordered a X-Star from dream-seller and received it noon today, of course right before I had to go to work... I didn't notice any dead pixels or much blb.

I don't like the stand at all, any one recommend a replacement?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Uhh this might sound like a noobish question but how does one set tints in Color Sustainer? Do you mean just use the pre-defined profiles then test it?


Yep, pre-defined profiles.


----------



## Nabi

Man, picked up a QNIX EV II and at first, and comparing it to my U2412M (E-IPS) for awhile, I thought the QNIX had a horrible yellow tint (please don't preach on the IPS yellow hue).

After using it for more and more, the Dell is starting to look purple.

I tried a few color profiles but been using the Asus one as recommended in the first page. Is there anyway to manually do some white balance changes or am I just nuts thinking it's more yellow than an IPS should be?

NVM, trying new profiles helped. You guys rock, thanks!!


----------



## DBEAU

So I'm really happy with this display. If I were really nit picky I could probably mention a few concerns but I'm not into staring at blank screens.

I do however have a question. I've confirmed with the skip test that the monitor is running at 120/96 hz but does setting this in windows continue into games or does the game revert back to 60. I noticed in the monitor properties that if I check the box "hide modes this monitor cannon display" then 96/120hz goes away.


----------



## tehsprayer

I want to get the X-Star monitor from dream-seller at $279 USD but worried that it will have horrible backlight bleed or several dead pixels showing in like a bright red or something very unpleasing.

Has anyone had this trouble?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehsprayer*
> 
> I want to get the X-Star monitor from dream-seller at $279 USD but worried that it will have horrible backlight bleed or several dead pixels showing in like a bright red or something very unpleasing.
> 
> Has anyone had this trouble?


Multiple people including myself have ordered that and gotten perfect or near perfect panels.


----------



## tehsprayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Multiple people including myself have ordered that and gotten perfect or near perfect panels.


I hope this happens to me but I just don't want to be an unlucky one and get dead pixels.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehsprayer*
> 
> I hope this happens to me but I just don't want to be an unlucky one and get dead pixels.


Even if you got a few dead pixels it would not be the end of the world. They are incredibly hard to see and even give testers problems when trying to find them. You would probably hardly notice them unless you got multiple in the center of the screen (which would be considered a defect as only 2 are allowed there).


----------



## tehsprayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Even if you got a few dead pixels it would not be the end of the world. They are incredibly hard to see and even give testers problems when trying to find them. You would probably hardly notice them unless you got multiple in the center of the screen (which would be considered a defect as only 2 are allowed there).


I just don't want the hassle of sending it back to Korea if it has several dead pixels, awful backlight bleeding or DOA


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi mate glad you have got yourself a good monitor and you have bought the very monitor from the very seller that i have been recommending right now...at this present moment in time and purely from the feedback and reports that we receive on this forum ExcellentCastle has been selling consistently for the last few weeks good standard ultimate pixel perfect monitors with *no* dead or stuck pixels...his ultimate pixel perfects have been perfect and this is why i have been recommending him....at one point i would of recommended accessorieswhole who i bought my pixel perfect screen from..however we have had a few members receiving monitors with defects from accessorieswhole that have been bad enough to have to return them..however i don't believe any of those that were bought were his pixel perfect monitors to be fair to accessorieswhole...i personally am a great believer in pixel perfect from the right seller and i am glad you have done well and have received a great monitor...welcome to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: there really is no reason for you to believe this monitor will have a lesser life period than any other branded monitor...the samsung screen that this monitor uses is same screen that is in the top end branded monitors...also overclocking these monitors in my personal opinion should also not shorten its life in anyway as we do not need to raise voltage to overclock them and therefore we are not generating and more heat than the component was designed to withstand...my monitor runs 120hz 24/7 and i don't believe for one minute i am doing it any harm or shorten its life whatsoever!


I'm new to the forum and have been following this club with interest.

Thanks for your advice and efforts to educate on this forum









I've finally taken the plunge and ordered the following from ExcellentCastle following your recommendation.

Ultimate Perfect Pixel 27" QNIX QX2710 Evo ll Matte QHD 2560x1440 PLS Monitor
Item price: US $359.98 + $20 Exp'd Shipping

Which is around 235 quid, given the rather good exchange rate at the moment ! I requested that he marked the item as "gift" or "faulty electronics for spares or repair" with a value of $150-$200 to assist with customs at this end









Soo we'll see how that turns out ! I'll be sure to let the forum know how I get on.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> I'm new to the forum and have been following this club with interest.
> 
> Thanks for your advice and efforts to educate on this forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've finally taken the plunge and ordered the following from ExcellentCastle following your recommendation.
> 
> Ultimate Perfect Pixel 27" QNIX QX2710 Evo ll Matte QHD 2560x1440 PLS Monitor
> Item price: US $359.98 + $20 Exp'd Shipping
> 
> Which is around 235 quid, given the rather good exchange rate at the moment ! I requested that he marked the item as "gift" or "faulty electronics for spares or repair" with a value of $150-$200 to assist with customs at this end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soo we'll see how that turns out ! I'll be sure to let the forum know how I get on.


Welcome to the club! This is the exact monitor and seller I bought from. I hope you get a great one. May I ask if you are a doctor? based on your name? I am so was just curious.


----------



## Fallendreams

Just bought this off ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/111073520913

From Green-sum for $320 says its perfect pixel. Feeling uneasy about the purchase. Hope everything comes in okay.









Anyone ever deal with Green-sum ? Seem to have same rating as Dream-seller


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Welcome to the club! This is the exact monitor and seller I bought from. I hope you get a great one. May I ask if you are a doctor? based on your name? I am so was just curious.


Hi. I am. I have a Ph.D not an M.D., though!


----------



## coelacanth

I never tried 120Hz even though I've been running my Qnix at 96Hz 24/7 since last July.

I just overclocked to 120Hz no problem (I'm using a 6' 24 AWG cable from monoprice).

I used the install qnix.inf driver method and overclocked through the Nvidia control panel after running the full ToastyX patcher (because I have SLI).

The frame skipping test says 120Hz valid and BF4 also sees 120Hz.









Formerly I overclocked with the patcher + CRU and never had a problem with that either.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fallendreams*
> 
> Just bought this off ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/111073520913
> 
> From Green-sum for $320 says its perfect pixel. Feeling uneasy about the purchase. Hope everything comes in okay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever deal with Green-sum ? Seem to have same rating as Dream-seller


I bought pixel perfect from Green-sum and got one with 0 dead pixels, no BLB, and overclocks to 120Hz no problem.


----------



## Fallendreams

Makes me feel a little better.

Thank you


----------



## SeanEboy

So, I purchased from ExcellentCastle... and, looks like he sent me (2) different monitors...Apparently a Qnix, and an X-Star.... Check this out... Hopefully the numbers are just meaningless...

DP2710LED:


QX2710LED:


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> So, I purchased from ExcellentCastle... and, looks like he sent me (2) different monitors...Apparently a Qnix, and an X-Star.... Check this out... Hopefully the numbers are just meaningless...
> 
> DP2710LED:


They are the exact same monitor, just different text on the bezel.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> They are the exact same monitor, just different text on the bezel.


Yeah, I figured that much.. It's just weird, that's all.. ;c)

And I don't have a card to test them with, yet! Blarg.. It's going to be a long ass weekend...


----------



## mrbojangles43

I bought the qnix qx 2710 and i couldnt be happier except for one thing. The monitor seems to crash sometimes. Not often but when it does lots of randomly colored moving lines go across the screen but the computer is still working in the background. It seems to happen when im playing a video. I've overclocked the monitor to 96 & 120 hz and it does it. not sure if it does it on 60 but its never happened cause i dont often run it at 60. Stock cable maybe? any help would be appreciated.


----------



## ginjawarrior

Hey Guys. First time posting on this forum, but you all have helped me alot in the past when it came to overclocking and also helped me commit to buying an x-star monitor. It just arrived on Tuesday and by all means, it appears perfect. I bought the pixel perfect edition and don't notice any on the screen at all. I haven't tried overclocking it yet because, WOW is super poorly optimized and the monitor is putting a strain on my asus gtx 770 2gb, but I hope to mess around with it soon.

The big issue I came here to ask about is a bezel issue. The bottom part of the bezel seems slightly warped, and is bowing out about 2-3mm in the middle, enough that when I look at the screen i see the black of the edge of the picture. Its not a super big deal, except when things come close to the bottom, I see a slight reflection.

I contacted dream-seller, and he said he would do the exchange, but there was no guarantee that the issue would be fixed because the manufacturer said "it was to release heat". Is this normal and should I push for a return? Or should I take the offered compensation. I'm super picky so it is a little hard to decide.

Thanks all for your help!


----------



## rhysskee

Hey guys, im new here! seems like a great forum tho.

Im wanting to purchase 2 of the QX2710 's from hulustar in the next few days, and i was just wondering...

Im running a single Asus dcu2 GTX780 which has.

1 Dual Link DVI-D
1 Dual Link DVI-I

(well im pretty sure they are both Dual Link, i looked at the pin layout and compared to this http://www.datapro.net/techinfo/dvi_info.html#Page05)

the product description on ebay says the monitors only work with Dual Link DVI-D .. but i thought the only difference with DVI-I is the backwards compatibility with older connectors?

will i be able to connect 2x Qnix's in a dual setup with my current gpu?


----------



## Warsteiner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhysskee*
> 
> Hey guys, im new here! seems like a great forum tho.
> 
> Im wanting to purchase 2 of the QX2710 's from hulustar in the next few days, and i was just wondering...
> 
> Im running a single Asus dcu2 GTX780 which has.
> 
> 1 Dual Link DVI-D
> 1 Dual Link DVI-I
> 
> (well im pretty sure they are both Dual Link, i looked at the pin layout and compared to this http://www.datapro.net/techinfo/dvi_info.html#Page05)
> 
> the product description on ebay says the monitors only work with Dual Link DVI-D .. but i thought the only difference with DVI-I is the backwards compatibility with older connectors?
> 
> will i be able to connect 2x Qnix's in a dual setup with my current gpu?


I run mine on a Dual Link DVI-I port with no issues. Overclocking does not appear to be affected either.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhysskee*
> 
> Hey guys, im new here! seems like a great forum tho.
> 
> Im wanting to purchase 2 of the QX2710 's from hulustar in the next few days, and i was just wondering...
> 
> Im running a single Asus dcu2 GTX780 which has.
> 
> 1 Dual Link DVI-D
> 1 Dual Link DVI-I
> 
> (well im pretty sure they are both Dual Link, i looked at the pin layout and compared to this http://www.datapro.net/techinfo/dvi_info.html#Page05)
> 
> the product description on ebay says the monitors only work with Dual Link DVI-D .. but i thought the only difference with DVI-I is the backwards compatibility with older connectors?
> 
> will i be able to connect 2x Qnix's in a dual setup with my current gpu?


Blatent lies by sellers that don't know any better.. The monitors will run off any dual link DVI port, regardless of whether it is pinned for DVI-I or DVI-D. Your GTX 780 can run two just fine.


----------



## ginjawarrior

Sorry my original post was soo meaty, got a bit wordy. Basically, is it normal for the bottom bezel to bow out about 3 cm in the middle? Deam-Seller said the manufac. said it was to reduce heat, but he also seems like he really doesn't want to have to proccess a return. Just trying to talk to him today to try and get my replacement shipping ifI need it.


----------



## spikexp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginjawarrior*
> 
> Sorry my original post was soo meaty, got a bit wordy. Basically, is it normal for the bottom bezel to bow out about 3 cm in the middle? Deam-Seller said the manufac. said it was to reduce heat, but he also seems like he really doesn't want to have to proccess a return. Just trying to talk to him today to try and get my replacement shipping ifI need it.


Got the same thing on mine (same seller/monitor).
It doesn't really bother me. The reflection at the bottom seem to come from the glossy finish on the border (My windows 7 notification bar reflect there).


----------



## marsey99

i got a qnix from storewithstory for $320 (pix perfect) and it cost £230 all in with tax and shipping to uk.

runs 120hz no issue, starts to artifact around 135 hz.

no dead pix, tiny blob of light bleed on a small portion of the bottom left but it is only noticable when i point it out or you look for it on a black/very dark image.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginjawarrior*
> 
> Sorry my original post was soo meaty, got a bit wordy. Basically, is it normal for the bottom bezel to bow out about 3 cm in the middle? Deam-Seller said the manufac. said it was to reduce heat, but he also seems like he really doesn't want to have to proccess a return. Just trying to talk to him today to try and get my replacement shipping ifI need it.


My bezel also bows out in the bottom middle, I figured it was manufactured that way for some reason.

I think you meant 3mm? If it's 3cm there's something wrong. I see your original post now saying 2-3mm.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Just got my 290x in the mail. As far as setting it up with the X-Star for 120 FPS do I need to delete all the stuff I had set with my Nvidia card before and re-do it with the proper AMD settings?


----------



## ginjawarrior

We'll if that's the case, he offered some compensation instead. I wonder if I could just de-bezel and paint it matt. Is the who debezeling all that hard?


----------



## malmental

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majin662*
> 
> ok so I work is over and I had a chance to start reading through the page starting at the FAQ of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's some photos so I can get in, but also one of my BLB...to me it still seems worse in the photo then when im sitting here looking at it, but I'd like some other opinions as well because it looks like , by the picture at least, there's a couple other smaller spots. Will probably end up fixing sometime in the future as, why not?


I beat you by two weeks...


----------



## majin662

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malmental*
> 
> I beat you by two weeks...


haha!! Wussup man, how ya been? That's cool. I was late to the party, but by god, I arrived. I have seen the glory that is the korean monitor and I have basked in it's affordable splendor.









Will finally get a chance to play with it again this weekend. Had to wait on my 780 to get in. Got to redo my wiring in my elite130 (almost f'd it up bad being an overly anxious noob) and then it's tweak cpu, tweak gpu, tweak monitor.....PROFIT









You get same model and all?


----------



## Stalanium

Want to order today - I made a new a badass comp with a GTX 780 about 3 weeks ago and I'm still using my old monitor thats not taking full advantage of that power.

Help me choose between these 2:

Qnix: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b

X-star: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

Is $10 more for the 1 year warranty worth it, or should I go with X-star especially because I've read better things about the seller?

Let me know what you guys think!


----------



## majin662

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stalanium*
> 
> Want to order today - I made a new a badass comp with a GTX 780 about 3 weeks ago and I'm still using my old monitor thats not taking full advantage of that power.
> 
> Help me choose between these 2:
> 
> Qnix: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b
> 
> X-star: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e
> 
> Is $10 more for the 1 year warranty worth it, or should I go with X-star especially because I've read better things about the seller?
> 
> Let me know what you guys think!


you probably couldn't go wrong with either. I would most definitely get the one that you can get a warranty on though, well after researching that they honor it if need be. These things are great and from everything I've read quality has only improved but you are still playing the monitor lottery, play safe imho.


----------



## tangosmango

Is anyone able to hook up their ps3 to the DP2710 X-star model? I'm using a HDMI to DVI converter but I'm getting weird cycles of screens (pure green green, black and white screen, and few others.

EDIT: Nvm, search shows people saying a pS3 is not compatible unless you have some multi input device. :[


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> Is anyone able to hook up their ps3 to the DP2710 X-star model? I'm using a HDMI to DVI converter but I'm getting weird cycles of screens (pure green green, black and white screen, and few others.
> 
> EDIT: Nvm, search shows people saying a pS3 is not compatible unless you have some multi input device. :[


It isn't compatible because it cannot decrypt HDCP content (which the ps3 puts out, similar to blu-ray players etc.). Some computer monitors do have HDCP chips inside them but this monitor is not one of them.


----------



## basill

Or you can use a capture device like this: http://gamerzone.avermedia.com/products/live_gamer_series/extremecap_u3/
That's a rather pricey solution though.


----------



## renji1337

How do i run/use dispcal gui? I am utterly confused. I tried a calibration with the original spyder4 software and it looks hgorrid. Ive never done this before


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Seriously considering joining this club, but I still have ample time before I buy my display.


----------



## mrbojangles43

Update on a problem im having. When i try to play a youtube video sometimes right when the video starts the monitor It will do what's in the image. If I alt f4 the browser (chrome by the way) it will stop. Also sometimes I have to completely restart and the monitor will be flickering until I change the refresh rate around. Yes I'm using dual link dvi. I bought a higher quality chord to try. Any ideas?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I'm having some issues with my new 290x. I got the new beta 14.1 catalyst, patched it, made my cru and set it to 120hz in catalyst. The problem is though the screen seems laggy and frameskip test can't sync properly. Is there something else that you are supposed to do for AMD? I swept all the old Nvidia drivers off my PC, so that can't be the problem either.


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> It isn't compatible because it cannot decrypt HDCP content (which the ps3 puts out, similar to blu-ray players etc.). Some computer monitors do have HDCP chips inside them but this monitor is not one of them.


thanks, I googled enough to find that out as well. However, there are some people who use a switch box to capture video from ps3 (



). Would you happen to know if this would work for my situation?


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> thanks, I googled enough to find that out as well. However, there are some people who use a switch box to capture video from ps3 (
> 
> 
> 
> ). Would you happen to know if this would work for my situation?


don't bother. you would need a scaler which your monitor model does not have.


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> don't bother. you would need a scaler which your monitor model does not have.


damn, thanks for the insight!


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So I think I have worked out most of my problems. I still have browser stuttering for some reason, but I show a valid 120fps on frameskip test. The other problem I seem to be having now though is Color Sustainer seems to be randomly resetting. I load up windows and it's working, but after a couple of mins my gamma shifts dark again and I can't seem to get it to revert without loading up the profile in windows management.

Any suggestions Yasamoka?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrbojangles43*
> 
> Update on a problem im having. When i try to play a youtube video sometimes right when the video starts the monitor It will do what's in the image. If I alt f4 the browser (chrome by the way) it will stop. Also sometimes I have to completely restart and the monitor will be flickering until I change the refresh rate around. Yes I'm using dual link dvi. I bought a higher quality chord to try. Any ideas?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So I'm having some issues with my new 290x. I got the new beta 14.1 catalyst, patched it, made my cru and set it to 120hz in catalyst. The problem is though the screen seems laggy and frameskip test can't sync properly. Is there something else that you are supposed to do for AMD? I swept all the old Nvidia drivers off my PC, so that can't be the problem either.


Hi after you cleaned out your Nvidia drivers did you delete any old EDID overrides from CRU if you was using CRU for your custom resolutions with your Nvidia drivers?...then creating the new ones for you AMD card?.....At the top of CRU hit delete then use the reset-all.exe that came with CRU reboot and then recreate your EDID overrides for your new AMD card...if you never used the CRU method with your Nvidia drivers and only used NVCP for your custom resolutions you will not need to do this.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Yeah I did that before and I just did an entire re-do of CRU again, but I still have the same issue. My gamma just keeps shifting back to dark after a min or so.


----------



## jourelemode

Will a r9 270x run this monitor?

Jourele


----------



## autobtsrllout

Hey guys! It's been so long since I was part of a "cool kids" club but dammit if there isn't a cooler club than this I dk what's "cool" anymore...

So I just got my Qnix 2710 today (from green sum who seems to have hooked me up with a perfect panel save a tiny splash of blb in the mid left of the monitor. Thinking I'l try the tape method when I go to debezel this ugly stand from it.)

I've been playing my games on a 1080p HDTV for almost 2 years now and though I'm sad I lost the couple inches (downsized from a 35in) i am glad to say I WONT MISS IT. This thing is GORGEOUS. I showed my brother a 1440p photo of a leopard or something I found and the detail is absolutely breathtaking!

I need a little help though with the tinkering this baby requires to have it just right...

I'm pretty sure I've successfully OC'd it to 120hz (The UFO test site says im valid and my games are recognizing that as well) but I ran some benchmark programs (3dmark [not even sure if this is a good one for 1440p rez] and got some pretty disheartening results.

EDIT: I saw some tearing and "bleeding" of colors in one of the testsfrom 3dmark and it seemed like i had some serious horizontal issues going on at one point. Now after looking at the specs it was set at a 720p resolution and i'm hoping this was the problem.

My Rig:

AMD A8-3870 3.0ghz*
Gigabyte Nvidia GTX770 OC 4gb GPU
16gb (2x 8GB) Corsair Vengenace Memory
120 something SSD for bootup/os storage and a tb drive for storage

*Pretty sure the culprit to my problem

I'm pretty sure my GPU should be able to handle BF4 on a single panel at high/ultra 1440p resolution. Basically though im getting 9 FPS and my CPU is getting maxed out so I'm pretty sure I've gotta get a new mobo and CPU to really compliment this monster card.

My question is pretty basic I guess... Would my overclocking the monitor to 120hz effect the performance of the games effects to have an effect on this? I didn't see tearing in BF4 that I could honestly feel chalked up to the monitor. Everything seemed to stem from my CPU being gimpy.

Would lowering my 120hz to say 96hz help improve my FPS or hurt it? I'm not exactly a veteran at overclocking (as my CPU isn't even OC capable) and this is my first time stepping out of my 'comfort zone' as far as computing goes. This is all pretty new turf for me.

I wanna thank you guys too for having such an AWESOME group here. Without this I would have totally passed by a great offer for such a stellar deal. I'm only mad I didn't have the money for 2!

Thanks again for all your guys efforts and can't wait to be a member of the club!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> Hey guys! It's been so long since I was part of a "cool kids" club but dammit if there isn't a cooler club than this I dk what's "cool" anymore...
> 
> So I just got my Qnix 2710 today (from green sum who seems to have hooked me up with a perfect panel save a tiny splash of blb in the mid left of the monitor. Thinking I'l try the tape method when I go to debezel this ugly stand from it.)
> 
> I've been playing my games on a 1080p HDTV for almost 2 years now and though I'm sad I lost the couple inches (downsized from a 35in) i am glad to say I WONT MISS IT. This thing is GORGEOUS. I showed my brother a 1440p photo of a leopard or something I found and the detail is absolutely breathtaking!
> 
> I need a little help though with the tinkering this baby requires to have it just right...
> 
> I'm pretty sure I've successfully OC'd it to 120hz (The UFO test site says im valid and my games are recognizing that as well) but I ran some benchmark programs (3dmark [not even sure if this is a good one for 1440p rez] and got some pretty disheartening results.
> 
> My RIg:
> 
> AMD A8-3870 3.0ghz*
> Gigabyte Nvidia GTX770 OC 4gb GPU
> 16gb (2x 8GB) Corsair Vengenace Memory
> 120 something SSD for bootup/os storage and a tb drive for storage
> 
> *Pretty sure the culprit to my problem
> 
> I'm pretty sure my GPU should be able to handle BF4 on a single panel at high/ultra 1440p resolution. Basically though im getting 9 FPS and my CPU is getting maxed out so I'm pretty sure I've gotta get a new mobo and CPU to really compliment this monster card.
> 
> My question is pretty basic I guess... Would my overclocking the monitor to 120hz effect the performance of the games effects to have an effect on this? I didn't see tearing in BF4 that I could honestly feel chalked up to the monitor. Everything seemed to stem from my CPU being gimpy.
> 
> Would lowering my 120hz to say 96hz help improve my FPS or hurt it? I'm not exactly a veteran at overclocking (as my CPU isn't even OC capable) and this is my first time stepping out of my 'fomfort zone' as far as computing goes. This is all pretty new turf for me.
> 
> I wanna thank you guys too for having such an AWESOME group here. Without this I would have totally passed by a great offer for such a stellar deal. I'm only mad I didn't have the money for 2!
> 
> Thanks again for all your guys efforts and can't wait to be a member of the club!


The refresh rate of your monitor doesn't affect FPS. Thats all you are doing overclocking the monitor.


----------



## autobtsrllout

Thanks! I figured as much but I just realy wanted to be sure. I tried to ask a buddy of mine who I go to for my tech support but he doesn't know a thing about 2k resolution and I figured I'd just come straight to the source! Thanks for a speedy reply!


----------



## autobtsrllout

Btw: I've not messed with any color preferences cause I'm just so thrilled by this things stock settings I'm almost afraid to tinker with it any further... Is it really even neccesary to get the full potential out of this thing? I figure I paid good money for it I might as well make sure I get the most use out of it I can.

EDIT: OH BTW has anyone else noticed there power supply get pretty hot after like 1-2 hours being on? I replaced the cable that goes from my wall to the supply with a standard cable i had around cause Im certain an adapter left plugged into my battery backup will either short it or burn my house down. Is this a no-no?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> Btw: I've not messed with any color preferences cause I'm just so thrilled by this things stock settings I'm almost afraid to tinker with it any further... Is it really even neccesary to get the full potential out of this thing? I figure I paid good money for it I might as well make sure I get the most use out of it I can.


Best way to get the most out of it is to buy a colorimeter and calibrate it yourself. I just ordered a Colormunki Display yesterday on ebay.


----------



## autobtsrllout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Best way to get the most out of it is to buy a colorimeter and calibrate it yourself. I just ordered a Colormunki Display yesterday on ebay.


I wouldn't even know where to start with that thing... lol jeez that's fancy. I'm also going to have to spend the rest of my credit on getting a new CPU/MOBO/PSU cause I now that's going to enhance my performance most right now. I might look into one of these though eventually! Thanks!


----------



## matacks

^^ Nice dude









Yea, Ive had my korean monitors for a few weeeks now. I sorta loaned one to a family member because I had first bought the d-port version by mistake so I bought a second dvi-d only qnix model off ebay and kept that one for myself.

The d-port monitor was a qnix with matte screen. I paid a little extra to buy it from newegg. I contacted support to ask for rma simply because i haf bought the one i didnt want and they said no problem. But later I decided to keep both monitors because I could resist unboxing it to check out the d-port version.

Any as for the dvi-d monitor I got it from accessorieswhole for $289 if I remeber correctly. It wss called qnix QX2710 led evolution ll se matte. It had zero dead or black pixels and overclocked to 120hz with a lot of issues. it has some very faint horizontal bands on parts of the screen when its fully black. I guess this is why is not a grade A panel but i can totally live with that. Im a happy camper with this thing


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> I wouldn't even know where to start with that thing... lol jeez that's fancy. I'm also going to have to spend the rest of my credit on getting a new CPU/MOBO/PSU cause I now that's going to enhance my performance most right now. I might look into one of these though eventually! Thanks!


They are easy to use, even something like a Spyder 4 Express would work. But I do agree, having the hardware to back running 1440 is a better way to spend the money.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> They are easy to use, even something like a Spyder 4 Express would work. But I do agree, having the hardware to back running 1440 is a better way to spend the money.


Yeah I'm looking at dropping the cash to slap a second 290x into my rig as I speak. Don't know how some of the posters in this thread are able to run games on like 660ti and 670 sli at 120hz like they claim. With only FXAA enabled on high quality I only get around 80 fps in Tomb Raider (no TressFX) and that's with motion blur and shadows either off or heavily reduced. I can't imagine I will do any better in Crysis 3, Metro:LL, Witcher/Witcher 2, Sleeping Dogs, Farcry 3, etc. Especially the ones I just listed that are Nvidia optimized. Maybe some of guys can share your secrets?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yeah I'm looking at dropping the cash to slap a second 290x into my rig as I speak. Don't know how some of the posters in this thread are able to run games on like 660ti and 670 sli at 120hz like they claim. With only FXAA enabled on high quality I only get around 80 fps in Tomb Raider (no TressFX) and that's with motion blur and shadows either off or heavily reduced. I can't imagine I will do any better in Crysis 3, Metro:LL, Witcher/Witcher 2, Sleeping Dogs, Farcry 3, etc. Especially the ones I just listed that are Nvidia optimized. Maybe some of guys can share your secrets?


Running 120hz is just that, its running 120hz for the monitor. What they are getting for FPS is a whole other story. They will have lower FPS, yet still have a smoother look because of the better refresh rate.


----------



## bigtonyman1138

Just ordered an xstar to compliment my benq for gaming and general stuff. Should be a nice upgrade for most things. Now to just buy an additional 770 for next gen games at 1440p.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Running 120hz is just that, its running 120hz for the monitor. What they are getting for FPS is a whole other story. They will have lower FPS, yet still have a smoother look because of the better refresh rate.


Right but at 120hz 120fps is generally the goal no?


----------



## Osteoman

I'm running 2 GTX 770 Classifieds each with 4GB, and I am hitting 120FPS in most games with everything but AA It doesn't always stay at 120, some drops depending on the game but 90-120 very consistently. I'm using Nvidia Experience as a guide although it doesn't always sit up the games like I would prefer them.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Yeah I'm looking at dropping the cash to slap a second 290x into my rig as I speak. Don't know how some of the posters in this thread are able to run games on like 660ti and 670 sli at 120hz like they claim. With only FXAA enabled on high quality I only get around 80 fps in Tomb Raider (no TressFX) and that's with motion blur and shadows either off or heavily reduced. I can't imagine I will do any better in Crysis 3, Metro:LL, Witcher/Witcher 2, Sleeping Dogs, Farcry 3, etc. Especially the ones I just listed that are Nvidia optimized. Maybe some of guys can share your secrets?


My Tomb Raider 4 settings and i am running with x2 Asus GTX660 in SLI backed up by my overclocked I7-4770k running at 4.5GHZ..as you can see textures on Ultra and other setting optimized...with Vsync enabled i am hitting 120fps about 98% of the time as you can see from my FPS listed in the upper right hand corner... also using Color Sustainer which is doing a great job with my 120hz ICC profile with gamma correction and colors....the textures and details with these settings look fantastic!


----------



## rhysskee

thanks for clearing that up for me


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> I'm new to the forum and have been following this club with interest.
> 
> Thanks for your advice and efforts to educate on this forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've finally taken the plunge and ordered the following from ExcellentCastle following your recommendation.
> 
> Ultimate Perfect Pixel 27" QNIX QX2710 Evo ll Matte QHD 2560x1440 PLS Monitor
> Item price: US $359.98 + $20 Exp'd Shipping
> 
> Which is around 235 quid, given the rather good exchange rate at the moment ! I requested that he marked the item as "gift" or "faulty electronics for spares or repair" with a value of $150-$200 to assist with customs at this end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soo we'll see how that turns out ! I'll be sure to let the forum know how I get on.


Really pleased that you have found this forum and thread helpful...i feel sure that you will receive a great monitor from ExcellentCastle, please keep us posted and welcome to the club Doctor


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Right but at 120hz 120fps is generally the goal no?


In a perfect world, but its not realistic. There are always going to be some games that will bring cards to their knees so to speak. IMHO anything over 60FPS is not going to matter if you already have 120hz refresh. Others might say, oh yes I notice a difference when my FPS is higher, I sure cant prove them wrong.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Can someone please list all the cons to these displays.

Still not sure if I should buy one of these, or pay a bit more to a well-known manufacturer.

Do these DVI-D only displays have the lowest input lag compared to most others ? or is it the best in this price range ?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Can please list all the cons to these displays.
> 
> Still not sure if I should buy one of these, or pay a bit more to a well-known manufacturer.
> 
> Do these DVI-D only displays have the lowest input lag compared to most others ? or is it the best in this price range ?


Biggest con seems to be its a gamble on getting one that you are happy with. Another con is it might be hard to return one, depending on the seller.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Biggest con seems to be its a gamble on getting one that you are happy with. Another con is it might be hard to return one, depending on the seller.


Just buy with dream-seller. If you get one with a lot of dead pixels or, in my case a full line of dead pixels, he will give you his Fed-Ex account number and have you ship it back on his dime and send you a new one back. No hassles for me, but he did tell me he would take pictures and a video testing the replacement and never did. The replacement I got is literally perfect. Zero dead pixels and actually not a single bit of back light bleed. I am very pleased with my $300 Apple Cinema Display


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Just buy with dream-seller. If you get one with a lot of dead pixels or, in my case a full line of dead pixels, he will give you his Fed-Ex account number and have you ship it back on his dime and send you a new one back. No hassles for me, but he did tell me he would take pictures and a video testing the replacement and never did. The replacement I got is literally perfect. Zero dead pixels and actually not a single bit of back light bleed. I am very pleased with my $300 Apple Cinema Display


There are others that also pay for the shipping if you get one that is considered bad. I just didn't know how they went about it. Giving you a FedEx account answers that.


----------



## jourelemode

Hi guys, will an r9 270x be able to run this monitor well at 1440?

Thanks,

jourele


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> Hi guys, will an r9 270x be able to run this monitor well at 1440?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> jourele


Yes, you just have to be careful with graphics settings. Inject SMAA instead of using MSAA, disable proprietary settings like HBAO+, TressFX and so on, and you'll be good.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> Hi guys, will an r9 270x be able to run this monitor well at 1440?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> jourele


Take a look here,






http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-radeon-r9-270x-review


----------



## jourelemode

Thanks a bunch for the replies guys...I'll look over those links and info. Its been 9 years since my last pc build and I haven't really kept up...trying to learn all over again.

Jourele


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> Thanks a bunch for the replies guys...I'll look over those links and info. Its been 9 years since my last pc build and I haven't really kept up...trying to learn all over again.
> 
> Jourele


9 years, good god man, is your internet connection a tin can and string?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> 9 years, good god man, is your internet connection a tin can and string?


AKA Comcast


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> In a perfect world, but its not realistic. There are always going to be some games that will bring cards to their knees so to speak. IMHO anything over 60FPS is not going to matter if you already have 120hz refresh. Others might say, oh yes I notice a difference when my FPS is higher, I sure cant prove them wrong.


You mean more than 60FPS, on a monitor that refreshes 120 times, does not appear smoother than 60FPS @ 60Hz?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> You mean more than 60FPS, on a monitor that refreshes 120 times, does not appear smoother than 60FPS @ 60Hz?


Once you reach certain levels, the human eye wont see a difference. Having 120hz refresh rate is a bigger difference than having 120 FPS and 120hz. 60 FPS will be smoother on a 120hz over 60 FPS on a 60hz. Its the monitor having a faster refresh rate that creates a smoother appearance.


----------



## livejamie

Will this card run 2 of these well, or should I look at something different? EVGA GeForce GTX760 SuperClocked


----------



## tehsprayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *livejamie*
> 
> Will this card run 2 of these well, or should I look at something different? EVGA GeForce GTX760 SuperClocked


Probably fine but may lag on games.


----------



## livejamie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehsprayer*
> 
> Running two may be a stretch, fine if you don't play games.


Thanks for responding. I'd like to run games, what should I be looking at instead? That card is $230 on Amazon.


----------



## tehsprayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *livejamie*
> 
> Thanks for responding. I'd like to run games, what should I be looking at instead? That card is $230 on Amazon.


Are you running games with both monitors? or just running the game on one monitor? Maybe get SLI


----------



## livejamie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehsprayer*
> 
> Are you running games with both monitors? or just running the game on one monitor? Maybe get SLI


I usually just have a game on one and a web browser or Hulu or something on the right.

Gaming on both monitors would be cool but not super critical.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Once you reach certain levels, the human eye wont see a difference. Having 120hz refresh rate is a bigger difference than having 120 FPS and 120hz. 60 FPS will be smoother on a 120hz over 60 FPS on a 60hz. Its the monitor having a faster refresh rate that creates a smoother appearance.


How is that logical? The same frame is still being displayed for 1/60 seconds , and 2 refreshes pass for each frame. Meanwhile, @60Hz, one refresh for a frame that is being displayed for 1/60 s.

Have you tried 120FPS @ 120Hz yourself, or are you just assuming?

Eyes don't see in frames, humans can easily see the difference in smoothness even beyond 120Hz. 150Hz, 240Hz. You can still tell objects in a game are not moving perfectly smoothly from one place to another. You can still see separate frames even at 120Hz, but you'll have to pan faster.

I can easily tell the difference between 70, 80, 90, 100, 110FPS @ 110Hz.

120Hz vs. 60Hz is a whole new world but only when your framerates are above 60FPS and closer to 120FPS.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *livejamie*
> 
> I usually just have a game on one and a web browser or Hulu or something on the right.
> 
> Gaming on both monitors would be cool but not super critical.


Pretty sure you need 3 monitors to game with Surround/Eyefinity. I'd recommend getting a 780 instead of a 760.


----------



## livejamie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Pretty sure you need 3 monitors to game with Surround/Eyefinity. I'd recommend getting a 780 instead of a 760.


On Amazon I'm finding

760: $230
770: $296
780: $414

Is it really worth the difference to get the 780? Or would the 770 work just as fine? Or if I'm just using one monitor should I get the 760?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *livejamie*
> 
> On Amazon I'm finding
> 
> 760: $230
> 770: $296
> 780: $414
> 
> Is it really worth the difference to get the 780? Or would the 770 work just as fine? Or if I'm just using one monitor should I get the 760?


At 1080p no the 770 is generally considered the better buy unless you are running 120hz, but at 1440+ the 780 is definitely worth it. If you spend a little extra and get the classified you can OC to 780 ti levels of performance as well. It's probably the best bang for your buck on the market for a single card setup (not recommended for SLI though due to heat issues).

When I had a single 760 at 1080p setup last year I absolutely dreaded it. I would imagine it's worse at 1440p.


----------



## prostreetcamaro

If anybody is interested I am thinking about selling my qnix not 100% sure yet. No backlight bleed and 1 stuck green pixle that took me a couple weeks to even spot it. It is virtually flawless. It OC's to 120hz no problem. I haven't had it very long. I decided this resolution is not for me. Call me crazy but I have not been doing nearly as good in fps games as I normally would. The monitor is absolutely beautiful and games look fantastic on it but I am getting my butt handed to me.


----------



## jourelemode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Take a look here,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-radeon-r9-270x-review


I've read the article, thanks for that! Gives me a lot to think about before I start buying parts.

Now I'm thinking I should be getting the gtx 760 instead of the r9 270x...price different isn't much, like 30 bucks.


----------



## vedranius

Can someone tell me will I be able to play Battlefield 4 on my rig at 1440p and 120Hz? And if yes, at what settings?

Thanks!


----------



## DBEAU

Does anyone else notice a faint flickering? It seems like as I'm looking at this very page, while I'm focusing on the white portion in the center where the posts are my peripheral is picking up a slight flicker in the blue portion on the sides. I'll try setting it to 60hz and see if that helps.

edit: nope, still seems like its flickering at 60hz

edit again: I noticed when I set the brightness down the the very lowest setting (1 up from black) the screen flickers wildly. Seems there may be some problem with the back light or something.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> Can someone tell me will I be able to play Battlefield 4 on my rig at 1440p and 120Hz? And if yes, at what settings?
> 
> Thanks!


Sure you'll be able to "play" it. You'll have to be on medium/low settings though to hit 60 fps.


----------



## autobtsrllout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prostreetcamaro*
> 
> If anybody is interested I am thinking about selling my qnix not 100% sure yet. No backlight bleed and 1 stuck green pixle that took me a couple weeks to even spot it. It is virtually flawless. It OC's to 120hz no problem. I haven't had it very long. I decided this resolution is not for me. Call me crazy but I have not been doing nearly as good in fps games as I normally would. The monitor is absolutely beautiful and games look fantastic on it but I am getting my butt handed to me.


How much are you looking to sell it for? Where area are you from?

GOOD NEWS GUYS! I decided I only live once and cracked open my Qnix and spent a good 4-5 hours trying to fix the BLB in my monitor... PERFECT SUCCESS! Managed to get ZERO bleed and oc at 120hz! This things amazing! I love the resolution and the quality in my games has never been better! wish I could have bought two!

For anyone still on the fence or having issues with the backlight bleeding I found the best bet is to do a mix of the tape fix (Black electric tape around the metal frames front rims) and also to stretch the frames pressure on the front of the led panel. WORKED LIKE A CHARM! Through it all back together and it's like I've got a 700$ monitor for 1/2 the price. It's awesome!

Thanks again for your guys help! I'm still a little uneasy about the power supply they gave me getting pretty warm after an hour or two but maybe that's just normal.

OH! I noticed when I opened my monitor up that behind the frame i didn't have all the areas for spacers filled with the little rubber stoppers and some of them were really large and some were smaller.. I can attach pics if I need to.

Even still though without them the things perfect and works great so I can't complain about it. Just wonderin if anyone else had that little surprise. hahaha.


----------



## TFchris

Just purchased a QNIX QX2710 Evo II from bigclothcraft (perfect pixel)

lets hope I get it dead pixel free, and no BLB


----------



## DBEAU

is there any known fix for the horizontal banding?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So apparently GTA IV is completely wacky on a 120hz monitor. Just loaded it up and even at 60hz settings instead of 120, the car and boats just seem to float. It messes up the physics.


----------



## Moosebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Does anyone else notice a faint flickering? It seems like as I'm looking at this very page, while I'm focusing on the white portion in the center where the posts are my peripheral is picking up a slight flicker in the blue portion on the sides. I'll try setting it to 60hz and see if that helps.
> 
> edit: nope, still seems like its flickering at 60hz
> 
> edit again: I noticed when I set the brightness down the the very lowest setting (1 up from black) the screen flickers wildly. Seems there may be some problem with the back light or something.


Mine flickers when I turn the brightness all the way down, however it is fine at all other levels.


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moosebox*
> 
> Mine flickers when I turn the brightness all the way down, however it is fine at all other levels.


What you're seeing is probably the Pulse Width Modulation used to control the backlight intensity. It's not a fixed voltage analogue signal. What they do is feed a square wave into the backlight (ie they switch it on and off very quickly). Then they vary what's called the duty cycle of the square wave, which is basically the ratio of on time to off time to control the apparent brightness of the backlight.

Everyone's perception of flicker is different. You may just be particularly sensitive to the flicker. I don't think it's a fault, simply the way that backlight brightness is controlled digitally.

A bit of a geeky response (







sorry !) but hopefully you get the gist of why you're seeing what you're seeing. I could of course be talking total nonsense and will no doubt be corrected by one of the more able contributors to this brilliant thread !


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> How much are you looking to sell it for? Where area are you from?
> 
> GOOD NEWS GUYS! I decided I only live once and cracked open my Qnix and spent a good 4-5 hours trying to fix the BLB in my monitor... PERFECT SUCCESS! Managed to get ZERO bleed and oc at 120hz! This things amazing! I love the resolution and the quality in my games has never been better! wish I could have bought two!
> 
> For anyone still on the fence or having issues with the backlight bleeding I found the best bet is to do a mix of the tape fix (Black electric tape around the metal frames front rims) and also to stretch the frames pressure on the front of the led panel. WORKED LIKE A CHARM! Through it all back together and it's like I've got a 700$ monitor for 1/2 the price. It's awesome!
> 
> Thanks again for your guys help! I'm still a little uneasy about the power supply they gave me getting pretty warm after an hour or two but maybe that's just normal.
> 
> OH! I noticed when I opened my monitor up that behind the frame i didn't have all the areas for spacers filled with the little rubber stoppers and some of them were really large and some were smaller.. I can attach pics if I need to.
> 
> Even still though without them the things perfect and works great so I can't complain about it. Just wonderin if anyone else had that little surprise. hahaha.


I think the issue with most of these Korean monitors is not the panels but simply the build quality of the overall unit. These things are literally snapped in place into a cheap plastic frame so will likely have uneven or insufficient pressure to keep the panel perfectly flat in the frame. Any buckling whatsoever will enhance backlight bleed.

I understand that many people won't feel comfortable ripping apart something they've just dropped a couple to 300 bucks / GBP on. However those that are willing to do so and apply a couple of 'tricks' suggested by others will be able to tweak their panel seating and backlight bleed issues using nothing but electrical tape!

Then, as you say, they end up with an Apple Cinema quality display for 30%-40% of the outlay. I was seriously tempted by the New Achieva Shimian display (example in the link below)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Achieva-Shimian-QH2700-IPSMS-Edge-Eco-27-LED-2560x1440-AH-IPS-DVI-PC-Monitor-/131033629039?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e8236816f

As they even make a good job of looking like the Apple Cinema / iMac. However I've read that the backlight is super bright and cannot be controlled. The only way is to use the brightness control (which doesn't actually dim the backlight but causes havoc with your contrast and crushes the blacks horribly).

A real shame









Still no news from my QNIX order placed on Thursday. I got what looked like an autogenerated Ebay feedback from Excellent Castle (a rather terse "Hope to deal with you again. Thank you.") but other than that, nothing so far. Can anyone give their experience of the buying experience communication with ExcellentCastle? I know this seller is recommended by a few posters here.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> What you're seeing is probably the Pulse Width Modulation used to control the backlight intensity. It's not a fixed voltage analogue signal. What they do is feed a square wave into the backlight (ie they switch it on and off very quickly). Then they vary what's called the duty cycle of the square wave, which is basically the ratio of on time to off time to control the apparent brightness of the backlight.
> 
> Everyone's perception of flicker is different. You may just be particularly sensitive to the flicker. I don't think it's a fault, simply the way that backlight brightness is controlled digitally.
> 
> A bit of a geeky response (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry !) but hopefully you get the gist of why you're seeing what you're seeing. I could of course be talking total nonsense and will no doubt be corrected by one of the more able contributors to this brilliant thread !


I was under the impression these didn't use PWM backlighting. Oh well, turning the "brightness" up helped enough. I'm honestly more concerned with the horizontal banding I see the the corner of my display. I don't recall reading that being a common issue here.


----------



## WhineTraube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> How much are you looking to sell it for? Where area are you from?
> 
> GOOD NEWS GUYS! I decided I only live once and cracked open my Qnix and spent a good 4-5 hours trying to fix the BLB in my monitor... PERFECT SUCCESS! Managed to get ZERO bleed and oc at 120hz! This things amazing! I love the resolution and the quality in my games has never been better! wish I could have bought two!
> 
> For anyone still on the fence or having issues with the backlight bleeding I found the best bet is to do a mix of the tape fix (Black electric tape around the metal frames front rims) and also to stretch the frames pressure on the front of the led panel. WORKED LIKE A CHARM! Through it all back together and it's like I've got a 700$ monitor for 1/2 the price. It's awesome!
> 
> Thanks again for your guys help! I'm still a little uneasy about the power supply they gave me getting pretty warm after an hour or two but maybe that's just normal.
> 
> OH! I noticed when I opened my monitor up that behind the frame i didn't have all the areas for spacers filled with the little rubber stoppers and some of them were really large and some were smaller.. I can attach pics if I need to.
> 
> Even still though without them the things perfect and works great so I can't complain about it. Just wonderin if anyone else had that little surprise. hahaha.


I dont think it's normal, that your PSU gets that hot. Mine does not get warmer than 30° C or something like that, maybe you should ask the seller to send you a replacement.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> I think the issue with most of these Korean monitors is not the panels but simply the build quality of the overall unit. These things are literally snapped in place into a cheap plastic frame so will likely have uneven or insufficient pressure to keep the panel perfectly flat in the frame. Any buckling whatsoever will enhance backlight bleed.
> 
> I understand that many people won't feel comfortable ripping apart something they've just dropped a couple to 300 bucks / GBP on. However those that are willing to do so and apply a couple of 'tricks' suggested by others will be able to tweak their panel seating and backlight bleed issues using nothing but electrical tape!
> 
> Then, as you say, they end up with an Apple Cinema quality display for 30%-40% of the outlay. I was seriously tempted by the New Achieva Shimian display (example in the link below)
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Achieva-Shimian-QH2700-IPSMS-Edge-Eco-27-LED-2560x1440-AH-IPS-DVI-PC-Monitor-/131033629039?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e8236816f
> 
> As they even make a good job of looking like the Apple Cinema / iMac. However I've read that the backlight is super bright and cannot be controlled. The only way is to use the brightness control (which doesn't actually dim the backlight but causes havoc with your contrast and crushes the blacks horribly).
> 
> A real shame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still no news from my QNIX order placed on Thursday. I got what looked like an autogenerated Ebay feedback from Excellent Castle (a rather terse "Hope to deal with you again. Thank you.") but other than that, nothing so far. Can anyone give their experience of the buying experience communication with ExcellentCastle? I know this seller is recommended by a few posters here.


What you will find with these panels as regards backlight bleed is that a lot panels are sat in bent metal frame...some people de-bezel them which relives the pressure on the bowed frame...my frame bowed up about 3/4 of an inch at its peek in the middle of the frame running along the top when the frame was laid on a flat surface...de-bezeling the monitor will relive pressure where the frame is bent...however i could not live looking at my monitor de-beziled...

I truly believe apart from the fact some have dead stuck pixels the main problem with these panels are the fact that they are sat in a bent metal frame and the due to the amount of BLB they are rejected..it why most come with BLB....and when the seller put on there advertisement things like ..."Even Apple Cinema Display do not guarantee and responsible for backlight bleed and they also do not take return for that reason" ...that is utter rubbish apple would not sell panels with the amount of BLB with have on these monitors!...

Apple and other top branded manufacturers are competing in a very competitive marketplace and would not allow these screen in there Apple home cinema! ...in fact its the only reason we have these cheap monitors is because they where rejected...however with a bit of confidence and taking your time and you can fix these screens 100% ...some may get away with using just tape however i believe they are lucky as a lot will need to strip the frame off and straighten it for a for a 100% fix to the problem..

As for ExcellentCastle within the last few weeks people who have ordered pixel perfect screens have indeed received pixel perfect screens...i believe you will be happy with your monitor when it arrives









BLB



BLB 100% fixed after straightening the frame


----------



## renji1337

In dispcal gui what mode do i pick for the qnix? lcd generic or LCD white led (Ive seen people in this thread use the lcd white led option)


----------



## passinos

In for my 2nd Q-Star DP2710 from dream-seller.
1st one does 120hz in BF4 (before Mantle Patch) although I cant get FPS near 120 on my 7970 CF.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> Thanks again for your guys help! I'm still a little uneasy about the power supply they gave me getting pretty warm after an hour or two but maybe that's just normal


If you want peace of mind as and to know that you have Quality regulated voltage going to your monitor then you can not get a better replacement PSU than in the link below...i have one bought one also as i have been caught out in the past with cheap regulated power supplies blowing up my equipment....also these are made by Channel Well Technology who are leaders in there field along with the likes of Seasonic and they manufacturer corsairs PSU

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-CWT-Technology-Monitors-equipment/dp/B004HCCVLI


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> In dispcal gui what mode do i pick for the qnix? lcd generic or LCD white led (Ive seen people in this thread use the lcd white led option)


LCD white led


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> What you will find with these panels as regards backlight bleed is that a lot panels are sat in bent metal frame...some people de-bezel them which relives the pressure on the bowed frame...my frame bowed up about 3/4 of an inch at its peek in the middle of the frame running along the top when the frame was laid on a flat surface...de-bezeling the monitor will relive pressure where the frame is bent...however i could not live looking at my monitor de-beziled...


Hi Lawson67,

I take it you mean the metal sub-bezel as painted by Remmib here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1403910/bezel-painting-guide#post_20266354

That is one lovely looking mod for the thinnest bezel. I may even try that one myself ! Nice to know that even if the electrical tape 'fix' fails there is one more thing to try (ie ensuring the metal panel bezel is not warped.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> As for ExcellentCastle within the last few weeks people who have ordered pixel perfect screens have indeed received pixel perfect screens...i believe you will be happy with your monitor when it arrives


I'm sure my panel will be cool, I was more after an idea of how the communication with Excellent Castle went. As I say I've heard nothing other than what looked like an automated eBay feedback message. Does he message you with tracking info or is the first you know about it when the monitor turns up on your doorstep with a customs and excise bill of £1000 !


----------



## Jokah

No dead pixels, minimal back light bleed but unfortunately not the best clocker. Currently struggling to get 96Hz stable. Runs games and such fine but get pixel corruption when browsing the web or viewing documents.

(Top right corner)



Here are my CRU settings:



I've got a new DVI-D cable on the way but maybe there's some more tweaks I can do in CRU?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> Hi Lawson67,
> 
> I take it you mean the metal sub-bezel as painted by Remmib here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1403910/bezel-painting-guide#post_20266354
> 
> That is one lovely looking mod for the thinnest bezel. I may even try that one myself ! Nice to know that even if the electrical tape 'fix' fails there is one more thing to try (ie ensuring the metal panel bezel is not warped.
> I'm sure my panel will be cool, I was more after an idea of how the communication with Excellent Castle went. As I say I've heard nothing other than what looked like an automated eBay feedback message. Does he message you with tracking info or is the first you know about it when the monitor turns up on your doorstep with a customs and excise bill of £1000 !


Yes correct the metal sub-bezel... and what a great job Remmib did with that!....anyhow you have to take 2 mounting rails off of the side of the fame also "as in the picture below" to be able to remove the frame from the screen...in my picture i am taking the rails off with it facedown ...you must flip over the screen so it is facing upwards before removing the frame.... once the frame is off do not let anyone go near to or touch the monitor as the diffuser layers are not held in place at this point and you do not want then touched...

there are a few posts of mine on this page explaning how i did it http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970




I did not buy mine from ExcellentCastle however you should receive a tracking number from all the sellers..as for her majesty custom officials and import duty i asked my seller to put $200 down on the paperwork instead of £200 which he indeed did for me

Fedex delivered my monitor 3 days after i placed the order....1 week later i got a bill from Fedex claiming that they had to pay £35 import tax duty on my behalf to release my monitor from customs....i was more than have to pay fedex the £35...I hope this helps


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> Can someone tell me will I be able to play Battlefield 4 on my rig at 1440p and 120Hz? And if yes, at what settings?
> 
> Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> Can someone tell me will I be able to play Battlefield 4 on my rig at 1440p and 120Hz? And if yes, at what settings?
> 
> Thanks!


My three way sli of gtx780 can do 120 fps @ max settings to a single display. But that is just barely. That is with a light overclock on the cards not voltage modded. based on the rig in your sig rigbuild you will very likely have to play low/medium to get the frames up that high @ 1440p.

If i want to play surround mode and use all 3 of my displays. with the cards @ a light OC if i want to stay solid above 60 fps the settings come down to high settings.

most of the time i just play single monitor @ 110hz.


----------



## lawson67

For Nvidia users that are using the NVCP and monitor driver method to overclock and have a X-star monitor... here is a X-Star monitor Driver file for you if you have been using the Qnix one instead.

x-star.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokah*
> 
> No dead pixels, minimal back light bleed but unfortunately not the best clocker. Currently struggling to get 96Hz stable. Runs games and such fine but get pixel corruption when browsing the web or viewing documents.
> 
> (Top right corner)
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my CRU settings:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a new DVI-D cable on the way but maybe there's some more tweaks I can do in CRU?


I am hoping the new cable works for you as most can hit 96hz easily ...normally you do not even have to mess with the timings at 96hz as you are below the pixel clock limit of 450mhz...yours is only 370mhz....have you used or tried the patch?.....i would also make sure the DVI-D cable was tight...maybe reseat it...and i would even reseat my graphics card and try the overclock again if re-seating the cable did not work.


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> My three way sli of gtx780 can do 120 fps @ max settings to a single display. But that is just barely. That is with a light overclock on the cards not voltage modded. based on the rig in your sig rigbuild you will very likely have to play low/medium to get the frames up that high @ 1440p.
> 
> If i want to play surround mode and use all 3 of my displays. with the cards @ a light OC if i want to stay solid above 60 fps the settings come down to high settings.
> 
> most of the time i just play single monitor @ 110hz.


Tnx for replying.

Was thinking, what if I see that I don't like how my PC copes with 1440 in games like BF4, could I choose to play these games @1080p on that monitor? What would be the feeling and resolution then?








If not, I still have my 1680x1050 @60Hz monitor









Still, It's time to get a new GPU... Eh...

But for every day usage, I think I'll enjoy this monitor.








And I hope that I won't have any other technical problems with it...


----------



## vedranius

Not sure if this was already described, but what are the main differences between QNix and X-star monitors? And are there any better then these?
I asked this question before, and someone already answered that Qnix is better for games and fast movements and so.
But, I'd like a monitor with which I'll have no problems with my rig, and which has more updates/patches for AMD cards...

Tho, in some future, not that close tho, I might switch to NVIDIA







Will see how future will develop


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> Not sure if this was already described, but what are the main differences between QNix and X-star monitors? And are there any better then these?
> I asked this question before, and someone already answered that Qnix is better for games and fast movements and so.
> But, I'd like a monitor with which I'll have no problems with my rig, and which has more updates/patches for AMD cards...
> 
> Tho, in some future, not that close tho, I might switch to NVIDIA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will see how future will develop


The only difference is the text on the bezel.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> The only difference is the text on the bezel.


^^^This is number 44

And is still in the OP


----------



## Jokah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I am hoping the new cable works for you as most can hit 96hz easily ...normally you do not even have to mess with the timings at 96hz as you are below the pixel clock limit of 450mhz...yours is only 370mhz....have you used or tried the patch?.....i would also make sure the DVI-D cable was tight...maybe reseat it...and i would even reseat my graphics card and try the overclock again if re-seating the cable did not work.


I'll have a re-jig of everything when my new cable gets here. Unfortunately I just have a bad clocker it seems. Anything from 110Hz and above is just a scrambled mess. Luck of the draw though eh. Most can do 120Hz but I've got one of the few that can't. Still good value for the money though so can't complain. I'll be more than happy if I can get it to do 96Hz without the current corruption I am seeing.

Also I have tried a couple of different drivers from AMD and my card is not currently overclocked. Leaving as is until I get this corruption sorted. And yes I have applied the patch. May do fresh patch and driver install when my cable gets here. Thanks for your input.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> LCD white led


would i use this setting for my vg248qe aswell?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> would i use this setting for my vg248qe aswell?


I don't know what a vg248qe uses you might have to do some reading now and Google it.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

I found a wonderful review.

http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Displays/Achieva-Shimian-27-Monitor-Review-1440p-IPS-Display-Under-350

Edit - To clarify, it's old, but it's helping to convince me to get one of these displays.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> Hi Lawson67,
> 
> I take it you mean the metal sub-bezel as painted by Remmib here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1403910/bezel-painting-guide#post_20266354
> 
> That is one lovely looking mod for the thinnest bezel. I may even try that one myself ! Nice to know that even if the electrical tape 'fix' fails there is one more thing to try (ie ensuring the metal panel bezel is not warped.
> I'm sure my panel will be cool, I was more after an idea of how the communication with Excellent Castle went. As I say I've heard nothing other than what looked like an automated eBay feedback message. Does he message you with tracking info or is the first you know about it when the monitor turns up on your doorstep with a customs and excise bill of £1000 !


I bought from Excellentcastle about 3-4 weeks ago. I gave him an offer 30 bucks below his asking price on a Sunday. About 24 hours later I got a notification saying it was shipped with a tracking number. It came by. DHL. I received the monitor on Wednesday and was able to track it the whole way. From South Korea to Texas in 2 days. Amazingly fast. In fact I have never received an order quicker even when I ordered from a local store. They almost immediately provided positive feedback for my ebay account. I did not receive any other message from him but there was no need to.

I bought the "Ultimate Pixel Perfect" version for $330 and it is indeed pixel perfect. There is a very minor black light bleed in the lower left. Over clocks easily to 120 Hz through Nvidia CP with Lawson's timings. I am also using Lawson's color profiles at 120Hz and color sustainer to lock them in for games. The screen looks awesome. I like it way better then my Dell U2711, which was much more expensive.

Credit to Lawson and Yasamoka.


----------



## Dr Steve

Cheers Bones !









I'm sure everything's fine with the order and the weekend probably hasn't helped, but thanks for your response (that's just what I was after).

Regarding your counter offer, they are used to haggling in the far east and in some cases hold you in lower respect if you don't !!!

I was out in Viet-nam in 2012 and remember getting a somewhat confused look when I handed over my Dong (that's Vietnamese currency by the way !) without haggling. Everything is so dirt cheap out there compared with the west and especially "Rip-off Britain" that every expenditure just seemed like pocket change. Me and a mate ran up a bar bill of 1.5 million on the first night ! That equated to about £50 GBP and my mate was on Johnny Walker Black Label all night !

Just a totally different world !


----------



## jourelemode

Anyone buy from storewithstory on eBay? How was your experience?

thanks


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> Cheers Bones !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure everything's fine with the order and the weekend probably hasn't helped, but thanks for your response (that's just what I was after).
> 
> Regarding your counter offer, they are used to haggling in the far east and in some cases hold you in lower respect if you don't !!!
> 
> I was out in Viet-nam in 2012 and remember getting a somewhat confused look when I handed over my Dong (that's Vietnamese currency by the way !) without haggling. Everything is so dirt cheap out there compared with the west and especially "Rip-off Britain" that every expenditure just seemed like pocket change. Me and a mate ran up a bar bill of 1.5 million on the first night ! That equated to about £50 GBP and my mate was on Johnny Walker Black Label all night !
> 
> Just a totally different world !


Sounds interesting. I'll have to go check it out sometime.


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> Tnx for replying.
> 
> Was thinking, what if I see that I don't like how my PC copes with 1440 in games like BF4, could I choose to play these games @1080p on that monitor? What would be the feeling and resolution then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not, I still have my 1680x1050 @60Hz monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, It's time to get a new GPU... Eh...
> 
> But for every day usage, I think I'll enjoy this monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I hope that I won't have any other technical problems with it...


yea you can just play at a lower res and let your video card scale it up to fit the monitor. just play around with your settings till it feels good.


----------



## ABO-YASER

i have a small problem that i hope you would help me with
i overclocked my qnix to 120hz
and it runs just fine
but when i enable crossfire and start any game
lines would appear all over the screen and it becomes impossible to play
i have two r9 280x
my driver is 13.12
what is the problem?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABO-YASER*
> 
> i have a small problem that i hope you would help me with
> i overclocked my qnix to 120hz
> and it runs just fine
> but when i enable crossfire and start any game
> lines would appear all over the screen and it becomes impossible to play
> i have two r9 280x
> my driver is 13.12
> what is the problem?


Use two CrossFire bridges.


----------



## ABO-YASER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Use two CrossFire bridges.


i already use 2 crossfire bridges
but to tell you the truth i checked them
i found that one of them was not pluged completely
so i fixed it and now it works just fine
thank you


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> As they even make a good job of looking like the Apple Cinema / iMac. However I've read that the backlight is super bright and cannot be controlled. The only way is to use the brightness control (which doesn't actually dim the backlight but causes havoc with your contrast and crushes the blacks horribly).
> 
> A real shame


The Qnix / X-Star does have backlight control. Only select few models, mainly the Achieva range and the Monoprice displays (older models, newer models with both brands might have fixed the issue), don't.


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> yea you can just play at a lower res and let your video card scale it up to fit the monitor. just play around with your settings till it feels good.


Oh, good to know







Tnx!


----------



## autobtsrllout

Hey guys! Just got done mounting my center speaker to the bottom of my Qnix 2710! Not only is it seamless and low profile to the monitor I have zero loss to the sound from its positioning and it looks great! Here's a pic of my setup and monitor! Figure i can show off the goods.









So I had SO MUCH fun opening this thing up and tinkering with it for it to work that I'm seriously considering buying another one or two of these bad boys to repair and fix up to resell with the proper software links in an email so people can just plug em right in and get to playing! What do you guys think? Nay? Yay?

P.S. I was able to successfully OC my monitor to 120hz (Luck of the draw) and get ZERO black light bleed from my monitor with a bit of the ol' tape fix and some well placed "crimping"!





EDIT: On second thought I wouldn't include the software in the monitors package but would provide links, information and assistance in emails and chat.


----------



## kyismaster

So, anyone have a dead monitor yet?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> So, anyone have a dead monitor yet?


I was actually wondering this myself.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I was actually wondering this myself.


just poking the bear, i know its been asked many times,
but in all seriousness, we are enthusiast and this is kinda "experimental" , my last set of LCD's lasted 6 years, and Id expect the same "quality" of lifetime. if these are dropping under 3 years, ill be a little weary. not that I desperately don't want one, its a great value,
but I want to know how its holding ground.


----------



## QuickFix

Just received my Qnix 2710. No stuck pixels. Overclocked to 120hz right away. The only defect is shown in the following pictures. I have not read a post describing a defect like this before. Anyone know what this defect is called? The color defect is 10mm in diameter and more pronounced in person than shown in these pictures. It shows up on white and light blue/grey screens the most.

The shipper ,MNW Global, said:
Quote:


> Hi,
> We are sorry that due to the panel characteristics, there could be some uneven color.
> We don't guarantee for 100% color uniformity.
> If it is inconvenient for you, how about we make a partial refund to compensate it?
> 
> We will wait for your response.
> Thank you.


What to do? Help


----------



## Yarik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> just poking the bear, but in all seriousness, we are enthusiast and this is kinda "experimental" , my last set of LCD's lasted 6 years, and Id expect the same "quality" of lifetime. if these are dropping under 3 years, ill be a little weary. not that I desperately don't want one, its a great value, but I want to know how its holding ground.


I think they've only been out a couple of years though, so no REAL test of time yet (maybe even only like a year or so).
Either way, ordered an X-Star from dream-seller for 279$, already in the States (ETA wednesday, though hoping for tomorrow







)
And, for my own peace of mind, i also got the SquareTrade warranty for 3 years, in case mine DOES crap out in a couple of months/years.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thddl638*
> 
> I got my DP2710 for 279$, free shipping!!
> Well It seems just perfect, no dead pixels, no back light bleeding.
> As many people said it's all same with Qnix. I recommend to just go for cheaper one if you are hesitating between the two.
> Just in case, if you are wondering where I got my DP2710, I will leave the link below.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


Why did you copy and paste this to seemingly every Qnix thread you could find?


----------



## vedranius

I'm thinking of buying a monitor from StoreWithStory, and I got an reply from them when I asked for discount:
Hello
Um .. Ok..
USD334 .. deal!!!
But, to your country, extra shipping cost may happens.
Thanks

Tell me, any idea how will I get that discount? And why will there be any extra shipping cost if my country is already listed on it's item listing page?
and also, this is for ultimate perfect pixel with 1 year warranty.... Compared to excellentcastle who aren't giving any warranty...

Thanks!


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> My three way sli of gtx780 can do 120 fps @ max settings to a single display. But that is just barely. That is with a light overclock on the cards not voltage modded. based on the rig in your sig rigbuild you will very likely have to play low/medium to get the frames up that high @ 1440p.
> 
> If i want to play surround mode and use all 3 of my displays. with the cards @ a light OC if i want to stay solid above 60 fps the settings come down to high settings.
> 
> most of the time i just play single monitor @ 110hz.


I'm getting around 100 - 140 FPS with GTX 780 SLI @ 2560 x 1440 everything maxed, 100% resolution scaling.


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Hello friends! i just received my new qnix 2710. I overclocked it (i think) but i'm not expert, how can i know if overclock is good?
i have 120 hz now after installed nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2.5, but why many user use 96 hz, how can i recognize the limits?

Thank you


p.s. i have nvidia GPU


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

for example: i don't have OSD but just the button, how can i set the right brightness? i loaded asus_pb278


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> for example: i don't have OSD but just the button, how can i set the right brightness? i loaded asus_pb278


You can load my Qnix 96hz or 120hz profiles that i calibrated to a brightness of 200 cd/m which for 120hz is 18 clicks up on the BRI + button from a black screen and 17 clicks up for the 96hz profile....also you can test your overclocks at the link below
And to test your games you can enable V sync within your chossen game and if you can hit over 60fps or even max out at 96fps with your 96hz overclock you are running overclocked....for your 120hz overclock if you can hit over 96 fps to a maximum of 120fps then your 120hz overclock is also working in your games

http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


Also i recommended using Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325

And welcome to the club


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Fantastic!! very very thank you! i will try it tomorrow...now i go to bed, here is 11.30 pm 
i will let you know!
happy to join in the club!
Bye


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> Fantastic!! very very thank you! i will try it tomorrow...now i go to bed, here is 11.30 pm
> i will let you know!
> happy to join in the club!
> Bye


Your more than welcome good night


----------



## renji1337

Heres my 96hz calibration profile I did, test it out. Will be doing another one tonight.

http://speedyshare.com/eHDma/qnix-qx2710-96hz.icm

Click on the link next to the name to download.

I forget the brightness clicks i used though haha.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Do these Korean PLS displays really have less input lag than the $600+ brand name/top-end ones that also only have a DVI-D Link input ?

Still not sure if I should go the Korean or $600+ brand-name route.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Do these Korean PLS displays really have less input lag than the $600+ brand name/top-end ones that also only have a DVI-D Link input ?
> 
> Still not sure if I should go the Korean or $600+ brand-name route.


IMHO you go Korean if you plan to overclock.


----------



## Cyalume

Mine has horrible problems with color temp when overclocking, and it has patches of darkness all around the edges.

Has anyone found a way to circumvent/remove the ultra-annoying PWM flicker?


----------



## rjm0827

Received my monitor today. I bought a X-Star from dream-seller and got the Perfect Pixel option. I know many say it dosen't matter but I did it, rather have 1-2 than 3-4 dead pixels. I was very skeptical about ordering this as opposed to a more expensive name brand model. I guess I got lucky, I have 0 dead pixels and less BLB than my Asus IPS monitor I bought last year. I hit 120hz without a hitch. Then applied the color profiles provided in this thread and bam, it's perfect. I am blown away by the quality of the screen. I've played FF XIV and Bioshock and they're like new games now. So much more real estate and the higher fps made more of a difference than I had expected. I would gladly pay double the price for this quality of a monitor.


----------



## Yarik

Same as most people. Just received my X-Star from dream-seller, 2 days ahead of delivery date. No dead pixels that I can see, no BLB that I can see. Have not tried OCing yet.

Edit:
Overclocking to 75hz, then 96hz, then 120hz, using the Nvidia Panel, seems all good, though haven't REALLY tested if it actually works. Set it on 96hz for now.
Tried out World of Tanks, was sitting at a steady 60fps. Then tried Borderlands 2, same thing 60fps.
Then I went and launched the CRU thing, did my best to create a 96hz profile, and rebooted.
World of Tanks is still at a steady 60fps, but Borderlands actually seems to go up to 80-90-96 fps, according to fraps.
So at least it works in BL2 it seems. Who knows if all of the other games will, but oh well, don't think my 760gtx will run TOO many games past 60fps at 1440p.


----------



## sixtyfivedays

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Heres my 96hz calibration profile I did, test it out. Will be doing another one tonight.
> 
> http://speedyshare.com/eHDma/qnix-qx2710-96hz.icm
> 
> Click on the link next to the name to download.
> 
> I forget the brightness clicks i used though haha.


Doh. Easy to config though! Thanks fo the link, will test it out and report back.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Anyone giving away any squaretrade coupons ?;p could use one for this monitor before my 30 days are up soon


----------



## ColdFlo

Fixing this monitors backlightbleed with tape doesnt work. It really shouldn't be called backlightbleed that creates an oversimplified visualization of the problem in the mind. It's not so much a problem of light bleeding through but more a problem of the liquid crystals being squished between the panes of glass that contain them. These squished areas are where the light can pass through(thinned or crystals out of alignment I'm not sure but when you presss on it and it turns light it sure looks like the darkening effect is thinning like ink in water viewed in a shallower depth). So really its liquid crystay sheet orientation. tape does nothing and can only make it more squished also putting a rolling pin to the internal frame bezel also accomplishes nothing........ putting a rolling pin to the whole internal panel in my eyes is extremely risky and based on the fact that other options mentioned have had no effect would not advise this at all. We have yet to find a solution to liquid crystal sheet settled flatness which may eliminate back light bleed. Maybe adding tape might help if liquid tries to get led backlight strip at the bottom tho if you had runoff from an overly damp rag which could kill your screen(or make it hard to repair); remember lightly damp microfiber rag with water and a drop of dish soap per bowl of water nothing else no runoff(you will have streaks this is only possible with lighter vaporizing chemicals which will damage your screen samsung manuals say on some models you can use iso but thats because that model has a glass panel over the internal panel this one is bare with no covering) no excess disconnect the monitor(power) make sure no liquid droplets run to the edge of the monitor there are no seals can kill your screen.

Since these panels haven't sold out or really increased in price I decided to go ahead and advertise them on slickdeals with a bit more of an experienced insight. Some noobs on here might pickup a few details about these panels they didn't know yet. I've changed my mind on the BLB fixes tho I think you guys are selling snakeoil on those....

This monitor rules Dual-Dvi means extremely low input latency(latency from gpu port to screen output 3ms(monitors with HDMI and Display Port often test 30ms or higher) tested on this monitor very low for ips pls not talking pixel transition latency input latency is something else). No other connectors means lack of scalar or other transcoding circuitry requried which is the only connection because of the Explore EP269 chip it can get 110hz(many sit at 120 some have achieve 140fps tho not recommended there have been a few clocking failures) at 2560x1440(perfect for gaming) you will see blur flicking windows around but I can't see it in games(it resolves instantly when the screen isnt being flicked around at high speed so its kind of like motion blur without the need for the gpu to do it I can't see this blur in game tho). Can't say enough good things about this screen anything above 60hz is better 60 is slow flickery and has tons of screen tearing 80 to 96 is better. You might want to open the screen up and add some sinks to the pixel chips(there are videos online if you are going for sustained 120hz but 80 or 96 is faily safe(this sounds really scary and there is one jumper at the lower right that is delicate and sometimes hard to remove once you crack the bezel). If you are technically inclined and a gamer and realize that tn is inferior to ips pls color rendition and viewing angle then this is the screen for you. Accessories Wholesale might give you a dead pixel screen but this is an extremely low probability high 97+ percent of screens have no dead pixels if you get a dead pixel just put it back in the box and reject the package through fedex say u just moved in and its for someone else then order another one(slim chance this will happen tho it has out of thousands of buys). Read the Korean Monitor Thread at Overclock.net to learn more. You will learn allot about monitors setting this monitor up for its highest performance levels.

Reasons to buy this screen:

- Better color and picture rendition than TN lightboost panels.
- Overclockable higher than all consumer US branded ips pls panels.
- Extremely low input latency great for gaming.
- Huge thread for modding and other info.
- Extremely High viewing angles means little edge fading when watching the panel slightly off angle(laying down in couch leaning back in pc chair).
- Whiter paper like whites when watching the desktop and associated applications. Denser very saturated colors. Extremely small pixels hard to see with the naked eye(dead pixels are very hard to see you have to look for them don't mistake it for dust(somtimes in the screen)).
- Best monitor for gaming if picture quality is your goal(it should be).

Downsides
- Can't be a tech wussy have to dig in the case with delicate wiring harness and be able to pop cases apart with credit cards to be safe when pushing this monitor to high levels and eliminating any possible backlight bleed(most screens have this not just this one we are just pro so we eliminate all imperfections).
- No warranty; possible to kill your screen if you don't know how to protect chips from heat with heatsinks and how not to push things too far. Tho this screen costs half of what a Consumer model at this level will cost in the US and it will be locked at 60hz. You could buy another one or 2 vs one Consumer locked to 60hz.
- Might require a little doctoring depending on how bad your backlight bleed and it safely clock at the highest levels plus a little work on tuning monitor profiles many have been created for you on the Korean Monitor thread but every monitor is different and a custom one done right is always better.
- Requires a high performance Dual-DVI cable many have tested up to 3 premium Dual-DVi cables off of monoprice to find one that works. A few times the one in the box works(very cheap) or people have found success with others. I found a very premium brand but there are not enough left online to feed a huge venue like slickdeals.

Those first 3 bullets seal the deal for many high end gamers that know their tech.......


----------



## ColdFlo

Lawson how did you straighten your frame? what was your method for doing so? Did you put it back in the bezel afterwards? When i had my internal panel on a flat board it looked pretty flat to me.... I'll have to check it again tho..... And I just snapped the bezel back together fully....... Maybe rolling pinning the whole panel from the back is the best answer but seems pretty risky as far as marring the front of the screen.........Have to put something soft like microfiber cloths under there. Still seems risky to put that much pressure on a liquid crystal screen considering how you can see it move by just pressing your finger on it..... You guys have a bad tendency to type that you fixed your screen and leave out the very details that would tell others how you did it.


----------



## tomka

Yesterday I finally returned my QNIX (thick lines looking like BLB lines) from accessorieswhole after almost week of negotiations. And I would like to ask you guys, which model and from which seller I should go for today? Still QNIX or X-Star, non-SE, perfect pixel? Thank you!


----------



## sundeath

I OCed my QNIX2710 to 96HZ by using CRU and changing the resolution in my Nvidia control panel. Tested for frame skipping and it was fine. Now when i play BF4, my frame rates are between 85 - 96. However, it still doesnt look smooth, looks kinda jery laggy.
Anyone can help me on this??
My PC specs are i5-4670k with a GTX780


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> HI Again bought mine from accessorieswhole and yes i did pay a bit more for pixel perfect...i did this for 2 reasons...one i know i could not live with stuck/dead pixels...also he seemed the only seller that garentteed me.."NOT ONE DEAD PIXEL"...number 2 if it did have dead pixels i would have Ebay on my side and would not be worried i had lost any money if was not happy with it...
> 
> As for how long it took to come...it was 4 days...i asked accessorieswhole if he could price it at $200 instead of UK pounds which he did...i thought i had got away with the customs income tax however one week later FEDEX sent me a letter asking for £35 they said they had to pay to customs get it released so they could deliver it to my house...i was happy to pay £35
> 
> it came with no dead pixels at all...just the standard backlight bleed which is something i could also not live with which is why i striped it down
> 
> There is no tutorial that i know of as to how to straighten the frame...however this guys films stripping it down and i think he used the tape method to help fix his backlight bleed ..i think that helped him with it but it would never totally cure it....its very easy to do really follow what he does and once you have unplugged the cables from the back of the metal framed monitor lift the frame out of the back case.....now take the monitor in the metal frame to a flat table top....i used my dining room table lol...and just lay it face down on there and look around it...i bet you will see the bend..now you know where it is strip the frame off the monitor...DON'T NOT TRY TO STRAIGHTEN THE FRAME WITH THE MONITOR SAT IN IT....that would be one shortcut you could well regret!....
> 
> Once the frame is off do not let anyone mess touch or go near the unframed monitor...also strighten the frame away from the monitor so you don't touch it or move it around.....it has layers of material on the lcd screen which do not want to be touched or moved around....so take the frame off the monitor carefully with the monitor faceing upwards....also when you put it back into the frame do it very carefully so as you don't move these layers on top of the screen....now once the frame is off just carefully with some controlled and at some points.. "heavy force" ...with your hands straighten the frame...as you push pull the frame keep putting it back on the flat surface to see if you need to straighten it more...this will show you which way you need to bend push pull it next to make it straight....or weather you have completed the straightening job...its not hard its real easy...once you have it laying flat on the tabletop without a curve in the frame anymore then you know it is straight and you can then put the monitor back into the frame....then frame back in case...plug the cables back in.... bezel on and your reassemble and back light bleeding will be 100% cured...below is the you tubes of the guy striping it down...he uses the tape fix...but i don't believe he checked to see if it was bent and so therefore the tape fix wont help that much...do as i say and straighten it....you will need no tape.
> The whole strip down and straightening job and reassemble job took me about 30-40 mins.


I went ahead and re-posted this since I think Lawson actually provided the detail needed to get the job done.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomka*
> 
> Yesterday I finally returned my QNIX (thick lines looking like BLB lines) from accessorieswhole after almost week of negotiations. And I would like to ask you guys, which model and from which seller I should go for today? Still QNIX or X-Star, non-SE, perfect pixel? Thank you!


I bought from Excellentcastle about 3-4 weeks ago. I gave him an offer 30 bucks below his asking price on a Sunday. About 24 hours later I got a notification saying it was shipped with a tracking number. It came by. DHL. I received the monitor on Wednesday and was able to track it the whole way. From South Korea to Texas in 2 days. Amazingly fast. In fact I have never received an order quicker even when I ordered from a local store. They almost immediately provided positive feedback for my ebay account. I did not receive any other message from him but there was no need to.

I bought the "Ultimate Pixel Perfect" version for $330 and it is indeed pixel perfect. There is a very minor black light bleed in the lower left. Over clocks easily to 120 Hz through Nvidia CP with Lawson's timings. I am also using Lawson's color profiles at 120Hz and color sustainer (by Yasamoka) to lock them in for games. The screen looks awesome. I like it way better then my Dell U2711, which was much more expensive.

I know there is much debate regarding the Perfect Pixel option and I am not going to reopen that can of worms but I'm thrilled with mine. I, of course, can't guarantee you will have the same experience but lately it seems the panels from Excellentcastle have been good.


----------



## ColdFlo

I think the black bezel is better(with glossy screen just light manage your room use curtains and shade to eliminate glare) yeah I've heard bad things about accessories wholesale all will have some blb but mine is not bad and hopefully we finally pin down all the methods to fix it and have them documented. I went dreamseller pixel perfect greensum isnt bad or i forget that one with an h(hulustar remembered after writing guide below) at the beginning of the name but that one used to be really popular. Pretty happy with my screen performs like a champ. The secret is not to renegotiate with the seller reject your package via fedex who can get nasty just say that the package was addressed to someone that moved out because you just moved in then they have to reject it. Free return shipping. Or waste your money everytime you get a bad screen. Don't worry fedex has made a pretty penny(probably hundreds of thousands) off us korean monitor buyers so dont worry about them very little hassle the ebay seller will have to refund you fully.....


----------



## ColdFlo

I don't think that will work on mine. I already rolled my internal panel bezel with a rolling pin but ill take one more look at it. I think mine is already flat but still has bleed. I looked through lawsons old posts but I havent posted for like the last 700 pages and the one he posted recently didnt reiterate the fix. I looked through the old posts but didnt realize it was one of his first right after he got the monitor.

Ok did the hand bending and it did fix the blb along the top that was really bad when I got the monitor but now on a black screen the bottom is starting to haze the more I mess with it. I think I have this screen finally figured out.

Ok since it is impossible to roll or bend the internal metal bezel totally flat(when clasping the back panel metal sheet) I think its best to turn it into a bending game and devise some general rules for success which are as follows:

Overall Goal:

The inner edge of the internal panel bezel(the part that actually clamps the liquid crystal layer) the one closest to the actual resolution pixels of the lcd if you have bleed in that specific location you want to bend that inner edge out away from the lcd to give it room to breathe or not be pressurized.

but....

If you do that all over the screen when the screen is stood up vertically it may start to bow vertically like D. If we were viewing the screen from the side, where >D is pointing to the back of the screen and D< is pointing to the bowing front of the screen(actual bow is millimeters or less). Therefore, you want the side verticals of the interal panel bezel to be very flat to hold the panel from bowing in the middle(a vertical bow ips pls has good horizontal viewing angle but not so good vertical therefore vertical bow can cause the top and bottom to haze with BLB) when clasped(may lay flat on your flat surface when free of the panel and unclasped but once back on and clasped will have vertical bow in the middle) you want the top and bottom to also clasp but be flat to avoid pressurizing the lcd layer but also keep the panel when stood up to not be not clasping the lcd layer otherwise it will bow(bowing will be a blb haze growing from the bottom of the monitor the more you mess with it).

Important Rules and Guidelines:

Remove internal panel bezel pop the clasps one by one carefully with a screwdriver or credit card(credit cards(old, temporary, rebate cards; you will ruin them) while not as easy are safer as a general rule for poping electronic cases apart) so as to not press into the panels internals(be careful think about everything you do before you do it and identify if it is pressing into the internals of the screen). *Stand the panel up and unscrew the back panel and hold the back panel on the monitor and lay it down face up lcd up so as to unclasp the top clasps as you gently move the back inverter board case panel hooks up/back away from the top so as to reach the top clasps(dont stick anything in there to unclasp them unclasp the bottom and sides first then pull the bottom of the bezel up from the bottom toward the top as if the top were a hinge and the top clasps should let go on their own).* Be extremely careful never to pick the panel up bezel-less as you will possibly fall the panel internals out like a deck of cards or *destroy the delicate wire busses along the top of the monitor attaching the inverter board to the lcd* (merely fine wires in plastic strip much like those flexible sli connectors). *Protecting those wire busses is probably the scariest thing about digging in this panel.* I've done it many times now and I'm starting to get fast at it.

All bends are to remove millimeter or submilliter incongruencies.

Be careful of bending at points perpendicular to internal bezel clasps as they are weak points and you can easily put in a deep bend possibly ruining your bezel.

Check bends against a flat surface. Touch the bezel laying face down from the back to identify small sub-millimeter bends or parts popping up that would put pressure on the lcd screen.

Some parts of the bezel are much stronger than others your just putting some force flex into the bezel to effect tiny tiny changes in its shape don't assume that all parts of the bezel can handle the same force some places can handle and require much more force than others.

When putting the bezel back on put the top on first being very mindful of those wire busses along the top and put it inside the back inverter board panel once the top is on then put the sides and bottom of bezel on the panel then go around the panel pushing down to hear all the clasps pop. *When you pick the panel up to screw the inverterboard/panel back on make sure you hold the inverter back panel on to the panel as you stand it up to screw the inverter panel back on.*


----------



## renji1337

Did anyone try my ICC profile out


----------



## Jetlitheone

Bought a sq warranty. They worked perfectly last time.


----------



## rjm0827

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sundeath*
> 
> I OCed my QNIX2710 to 96HZ by using CRU and changing the resolution in my Nvidia control panel. Tested for frame skipping and it was fine. Now when i play BF4, my frame rates are between 85 - 96. However, it still doesnt look smooth, looks kinda jery laggy.
> Anyone can help me on this??
> My PC specs are i5-4670k with a GTX780


I tested mine (1 day old) at 120hz with multiple games and got that feeling on 1 or 2 games. Not sure if it's just the game or what because mine tested valid with no frame skipping. Maybe it's due to the rather large fps variance jumps? On FFXIV I can be 120fps one second then 70fps the next. This is the game I get this effect with that's the most noticeable. I'm going to try locking it at like 85fps tonight and see if that removes the stuttering effect.


----------



## renji1337

Here is a 442 L*A*B 85hz refresh rate profile ment for 85hz/ MMO's. I use this as I cannot keept 96fps or 120fps v synced in WoW or guild wars 2 with even 2 780s. Therefore I use 85 refresh rate vsynced for games i cant run high enough.

Feel free to test it out, This uses 18 clicks on brightness + . but remember every monitor is different.

Lawson got 200cdm from 17 clicks.

17 clicks gives me 160cdm.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5vpocyyuk0yl69c/85HZ%20QNIX%2C%20442%20extended%20testchart.icm


----------



## hammadj

Will these monitors support single link DVI at 1080p?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammadj*
> 
> Will these monitors support single link DVI at 1080p?


Unfortunately no.


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You can load my Qnix 96hz or 120hz profiles that i calibrated to a brightness of 200 cd/m which for 120hz is 18 clicks up on the BRI + button from a black screen and 17 clicks up for the 96hz profile....also you can test your overclocks at the link below
> And to test your games you can enable V sync within your chossen game and if you can hit over 60fps or even max out at 96fps with your 96hz overclock you are running overclocked....for your 120hz overclock if you can hit over 96 fps to a maximum of 120fps then your 120hz overclock is also working in your games
> 
> http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file
> 
> 
> Also i recommended using Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below
> 
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325
> 
> And welcome to the club


hello! i tried to do like your suggest.

18 click of brightness + starting from minimum (dark) and i installed your profile color. Nice and clear image!
Now, this is the situation in the game:
In the grafic option i tried vsync on and vsync off. You can see the image attached.
But during the game i have always 60 fps, is correct or i wrong something?

thank you!


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> hello! i tried to do like your suggest.
> 
> 18 click of brightness + starting from minimum (dark) and i installed your profile color. Nice and clear image!
> Now, this is the situation in the game:
> In the grafic option i tried vsync on and vsync off. You can see the image attached.
> But during the game i have always 60 fps, is correct or i wrong something?
> 
> thank you!


or do you mean in a menù game and not in gamepley?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> or do you mean in a menù game and not in gamepley?


It seems your games can see that you monitor is capable of 120hz from your screenshots as you have the 120hz option if the game?... if the game can see this i see no reason for it to be locked at 60fps...how are you overclocking?...are you using the monitor driver method and using NVCP to create your custom resolutions?...or are you using CRU?....what timings are you using for your 120hz profile?...have you patched the drivers and did you do the full patch if your are using SLI?...do you have SLI?...the more info the better....also from your screen shots i can see what appears to be Fraps or something similar in yellow reporting 120fps in the top left hand corner?


----------



## rjm0827

So I've had my monitor for a day so I'll post a little update. I applied a light blue wallpaper and in the bottom left part of the screen there are 4 spots that look "wet" and colors are slightly lighter. On almost every color they aren't visible. I tried like 20+ colors on only on certain light greys and blues can you see it. Tried massaging it out but nothing, you can tell it's not from pressure, just looks like a screen issue. Haven't decided what I want to do. During gaming and browsing 90% of websites it's totally invisible. Also, after using it at 120hz for awhile there is one vertical line on the right that gets a green static look in certain spots. Running at 110hz which is still amazing it hasnt' showed up. Annnd it seems the top of the screen is brighter than the bottom. From the way I describe it, it sounds terrible but this is only on certain solid light color backgrounds. Anyone else experienced these "wet" spots on their monitor? I have the X-Star. For the price I am still pleased, can't get 100hz+ IPS anywhere else.


----------



## w00tmkay

Purchase Date - 02/20/2014
Delivery Date - 02/24/2014
eBay Seller - Dream-Seller

Monitor - X-Star DP2710 (Pixel Perfect)
Mount - AVS Single Display (From Microcenter)
Overclocking Results - 120HZ stable, running 120hz 6500k Neutral color ICC in the FAQ.

Problems - Had to remove the Bezel to remove the stand completely, also the monitor was slightly off-center, the display needed to be shifted with spacers slightly upward in the housing. Fixed with nylon washers. Needless to say, I am thrilled with the quality, will take some adjusting and getting used to this panel coming from a 1080p TN LG Panel.



http://imgur.com/OY2M1Uk




http://imgur.com/McRoQcL


----------



## Osteoman

I wanted to share something I have noticed with this monitor. I have a long term friend that I have gamed with for years. We are at almost exactly the same level in virtually every style of game. We usually play coop games because we are fiercely competitive. In FPS's we usually get within a few kills of each other one way or another. In racing games we trade wins. Very close in all games.

Why does this matter? Because since I bought my Qnix and since I started playing at 120Ghz with this resolution, I am beating him soundly in shooters, racing, you name it. The smoothness helps. The resolution helps. The low input lag helps. It absolutely makes a difference.

My only regret is that at some point he is going to realize something has changed.

The monitors are a steal for the price. Cheap bezel and stand? Absolutely. Does it matter? Heck no.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Is 120hz worth it even if you don't have the hardware for it (assuming I would need something like 780 SLI)?

I always play on a 60hz monitor with Vsync on as I despise screen tearing.


----------



## w00tmkay

I game on a GTX 770 2GB with my DP2710, most my games hover in the 80-120fps area, so its viable without multi gpu setups for sure.


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> It seems your games can see that you monitor is capable of 120hz from your screenshots as you have the 120hz option if the game?... if the game can see this i see no reason for it to be locked at 60fps...how are you overclocking?...are you using the monitor driver method and using NVCP to create your custom resolutions?...or are you using CRU?....what timings are you using for your 120hz profile?...have you patched the drivers and did you do the full patch if your are using SLI?...do you have SLI?...the more info the better....also from your screen shots i can see what appears to be Fraps or something similar in yellow reporting 120fps in the top left hand corner?


Thank you for your advice.

The situation is this:

i used nvlddmkm-patcher-full like in the image, what is the difference with nvlddmkm-patcher? I have a single GPU - Gigabyte Nvidia GTX680 OC 4GB


but this morning, for make this pictures, i tried again to open a file patcher and now the message is "found" and not "already patched" like yesterday... why?


this is the situation in CRU:


and this is the situation in Nvidia Panel


color profiler like suggest by you:


another question: when i play in a game i have 40-60 range of FPS. Maybe because my GPU can't be more performant? i could try with low settings and see if FPS go up..

P.S. Yes yellow is FRAPS and green is DXTORY

Thank you for all!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRUMMERKIKKO*
> 
> Thank you for your advice.
> 
> The situation is this:
> 
> i used nvlddmkm-patcher-full like in the image, what is the difference with nvlddmkm-patcher? I have a single GPU - Gigabyte Nvidia GTX680 OC 4GB
> 
> 
> but this morning, for make this pictures, i tried again to open a file patcher and now the message is "found" and not "already patched" like yesterday... why?
> 
> 
> this is the situation in CRU:
> 
> 
> and this is the situation in Nvidia Panel
> 
> 
> color profiler like suggest by you:
> 
> 
> another question: when i play in a game i have 40-60 range of FPS. Maybe because my GPU can't be more performant? i could try with low settings and see if FPS go up..
> 
> P.S. Yes yellow is FRAPS and green is DXTORY
> 
> Thank you for all!


*Method 2*

IF you are using CRU you need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience as it conflicts with CRU EDID overrides....Ok this is bloody frustrating because the OP needs updating...however do as i say below!.... for you we are NOT going to use CRU anymore!

1: Go to Nvidia control panel and delete your custom resolutions

2: Go to the nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe run it as you said you used it to patch?...however it now only say found?..if it says found again do nothing with it...if it say patched click ok to restore from back up

3: now open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...

4: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 5:

5: Find nvlddmkm-patcher.exe and run it...*Don not use the nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe* as you do not need to use a full patch as you are not using SLI and you are not using a 400/500-series GPU...now to be on the safe side reboot again and go to step 6:

6: download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

7: Go to Nvidia control panel and back to custom resolutions and make your 120hz using manual timings and using the exact same timings that i have in my Nvidia control panel from the picture below..when you was using CRU i noticed you had a pixel clock of 483mhz for your 120hz resolution we need to get it closer to the 450mhz limit...using my 120hz timings you will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz and you will have a much stronger signal....if you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use these timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution

8: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience...have fun!



qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## Dr Steve

Well it's only taken just shy of a week, but I've finally got a dispatch notification and a tracking number for my QNIX 27" from ExcellentCastle.


----------



## DzillaXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Is 120hz worth it even if you don't have the hardware for it (assuming I would need something like 780 SLI)?
> 
> I always play on a 60hz monitor with Vsync on as I despise screen tearing.


I can't stand VSync

Running at 96hz+ tends to get rid of most tearing.

My old 1080p 120hz screen rarely had tearing and I was accustom to that, and really the one thing I didn't want to lose out on. That is why I opted for a Overclockable 1440p monitor. The TitanFall beta had pretty bad tearing for me at 60hz, but 96hz and tearing was gone for me. IPS monitors are not that great for gaming when only running at 60hz IMO.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Is 120hz worth it even if you don't have the hardware for it (assuming I would need something like 780 SLI)?
> 
> I always play on a 60hz monitor with Vsync on as I despise screen tearing.


Yes, even if you can't reach 120fps you will still derive benefit as long as your hardware allowed you to reach above 60fps in games. For example, if you only play vsynced and was able to OC the monitor to 96 Hz you would enjoy 96 fps smoothly. Any fps above 60 and below 120 would still give you benefit. I personally have two GTX 770's Classifieds (4GB each) in SLI and I hit 120fps in the games I play. However, even when the fps dip below that there is no comparison in the smoothness I get now compared to what I was getting from my previous non-overclockable monitor.

The other benefit is the low input lag and excellent color reproduction these monitors deliver. They certainly are not perfect as you can see from reading these posts but I would argue for gaming they are difficult to beat. Yes, a person can buy a TN panel that is at 120 or 144Hz but not at these resolutions and they will not have the same color reproduction or viewing angles these monitors have.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Is 120hz worth it even if you don't have the hardware for it (assuming I would need something like 780 SLI)?
> 
> I always play on a 60hz monitor with Vsync on as I despise screen tearing.


I hit 120fps in many games including Tomb Raider 4 using ultra texture settings with my Asus 2x GTX660 in SLI..backed up by my Haswell I7-4770k which i have overclocked to 4.5ghz... and look at those lovely temps from my I7-4770k in the top left hand corner while gaming







..you can see in the top right hand corner in green my FPS


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> Well it's only taken just shy of a week, but I've finally got a dispatch notification and a tracking number for my QNIX 27" from ExcellentCastle.


Glad you have got your tracking number now...that's has to be one of the slowest shipments i have seen reported from any of these sellers!...but glad its on the way for you now


----------



## bluedevil

I am gonna ask this again, what are the main differences between the SE model and the regular? To be honest the reviews on Amazon are good on the SE model and I am quite tempted to bite at the $309 shipped price today.

Qnix QX2710 Evolution II SE
http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-Monitor/dp/B00HWV8ZTS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1393426111&sr=1-2&keywords=qnix

Qnix QX2710 Evolution II
http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1393427651&sr=1-1&keywords=qnix


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I am gonna ask this again, what are the main differences between the SE model and the regular? To be honest the reviews on Amazon are good on the SE model and I am quite tempted to bite at the $309 shipped price today.
> 
> Qnix QX2710 Evolution II SE
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-Monitor/dp/B00HWV8ZTS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1393426111&sr=1-2&keywords=qnix
> 
> Qnix QX2710 Evolution II
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1393427651&sr=1-1&keywords=qnix


Nothing specs are the same...only thing difference we have noticed is that some members who have orded the SE models have had to return them because of defects with the screen...from this alone i would personally stick with Qnix QX2710 Evolution II *non se*


----------



## DBEAU

So, if playing games is your main concern and you're not necessarily concerned with your desktop colors/brightness than is there any point to applying these ICC profiles? Don't games bypass the ICC profiles anyway?


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> So, if playing games is your main concern and you're not necessarily concerned with your desktop colors/brightness than is there any point to applying these ICC profiles? Don't games bypass the ICC profiles anyway?


cpkeeper can force the icc profile in many games. or you can run a game in windowed/bordless windowed and it will always use the ICC profile aswell.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> As far as ive seen - my settings have the lowest Pixel Clock @ 120hz for Radeon cards (Spartan F8 has lower for Geforce i believe) ..give these a shot


Havent visited this forum in a few months but im wondering:

Has anyone found a lower pixel clock than ~459Mhz for 120hz on these monitors (using CRU)?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Havent visited this forum in a few months but im wondering:
> 
> Has anyone found a lower pixel clock than ~459Mhz for 120hz on these monitors (using CRU)?


Not that i know of.. i used these when i was using CRU and they work for me now using NVCP


----------



## renji1337

Hey lawson, could you check my 96hz icc profile i posted a couple pages back out. I noticed that are monitors are really different, +17 clicks gave you 200cdm, while 17 gave me 160cdm. care to explain the big difference?


----------



## jerrolds

Calibrations is even more finicky with these monitors, your 120hz profile might be based on a 475Mhz clock while my display works on 459Mhz - meaning mine will be brighter and using your profile will look really different.

I'm guessing his monitor uses a lower pixel clock, or just dims less when overclocked, or both.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Hey lawson, could you check my 96hz icc profile i posted a couple pages back out. I noticed that are monitors are really different, +17 clicks gave you 200cdm, while 17 gave me 160cdm. care to explain the big difference?


Hi renji1337 your 96hz looks fine to me..it is a bit cooler than mine...i don't know what white point you calibrated too?...however it seems to have done a good job at correcting the higher gamma shift at 96hz...as for the difference between the brightness clicks i think jerrolds has done a good job explaining that...the same as i need to add one extra click to keep at 200 cd/m using my 120hz because the higher the hertz the higher the gamma shift ( the darker the screen goes ) also as jerrolds says using a different pixel clock will also make a difference with gamma...funnily enough jerrolds and myself are using the same pixel clock which is 459mhz..at 120hz...i hope this helps


----------



## Cyalume

If anyone has the time to do so, please do me a favor:

1) Download flux, an application that allows you to change the color temperature of your monitor:
http://http://justgetflux.com/

2) Run your monitor at 120hz

3) View a white background

4) See if there are massive orange blobs everywhere. Because this is whats happening to me.

I'm also having the exact opposite of backlight bleed; The corners and edges of the display are dark, regardless of what clock speed the monitor is running at. Almost like a "no-light bleed".


----------



## Pascual

I've got a weird issue that I'm not sure is related to my new Qnix QX2710 but it happened at the exact time I switched out monitors. Some of my video files and youtube videos don't play properly. Instead of a picture I just got a black box taking up the entire player. I overclocked my monitor to 100Hz if that helps.

Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascual*
> 
> I've got a weird issue that I'm not sure is related to my new Qnix QX2710 but it happened at the exact time I switched out monitors. Some of my video files and youtube videos don't play properly. Instead of a picture I just got a black box taking up the entire player. I overclocked my monitor to 100Hz if that helps.
> 
> Any help would be much appreciated.


Its from patching the ATI driver.


----------



## Pascual

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Its from patching the ATI driver.


Ah thanks! Is there a way to fix this?


----------



## DRUMMERKIKKO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Method 2*
> 
> IF you are using CRU you need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience as it conflicts with CRU EDID overrides....Ok this is bloody frustrating because the OP needs updating...however do as i say below!.... for you we are NOT going to use CRU anymore!
> 
> 1: Go to Nvidia control panel and delete your custom resolutions
> 
> 2: Go to the nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe run it as you said you used it to patch?...however it now only say found?..if it says found again do nothing with it...if it say patched click ok to restore from back up
> 
> 3: now open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...
> 
> 4: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 5:
> 
> 5: Find nvlddmkm-patcher.exe and run it...*Don not use the nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe* as you do not need to use a full patch as you are not using SLI and you are not using a 400/500-series GPU...now to be on the safe side reboot again and go to step 6:
> 
> 6: download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/
> 
> 7: Go to Nvidia control panel and back to custom resolutions and make your 120hz using manual timings and using the exact same timings that i have in my Nvidia control panel from the picture below..when you was using CRU i noticed you had a pixel clock of 483mhz for your 120hz resolution we need to get it closer to the 450mhz limit...using my 120hz timings you will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz and you will have a much stronger signal....if you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use these timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution
> 
> 8: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience...have fun!
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file


only one word: FANTASTIC!!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascual*
> 
> Ah thanks! Is there a way to fix this?


Someone else will have to answer that, not sure if the fix is in this thread below. But read the known issues.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## ColdFlo

The only reason to use CRU is if your on AMD cards otherwise you should use nvidia control panel custom resolutions and or editing the nvdisp.inf after you extract the drivers. I'm currently using Nvidia Quadro 334.95(the nvdispi.inf of the 334.89 GeForce drivers and the nvdispwi.inf of the 334.95 Quadro drivers are almost exactly identical except for the added device ids for all the Geforce cards so it will install to those as well and the top date and versioning information you can just copy the version and date from the 334.95 inf into the 334.89 inf and copy in the extra folders from 334.89 drivers and you will be able to install 334.95 to any nvidia card(once you rename the 334.89 inf to nv_dispwi.inf and copy it into proper location in the 334.95 drivers))(still can't get geforce experience to work tho so no shadowplay which is one drawback) drivers and can safely say they are the best and clearest(seem far more accurate as well with better more uniform picture quality). This I posted somewhere else and will teach how you nvdisp.inf works. This will also make sure your GPU is running PCI-E 3.0 if you install this tweak in this way it will also automatically work for SLI but this is the hard technical do it yourself way instead of just downloading that nvidia PCI-E 3.0 tweak and running that.

Since its a GPU tweak, for Nvidia, since that is the only brand I have ever owned, the proper way to add this DWORD would be via the nvdisp(i).inf(this is the file to edit) after you extract the nvidia drivers with winrar or whatever will do it.

Add this line to your other Nvidia Video/0000 (reference to where this tweak ends up in the registry explained further at end of post) key tweaks(if your pro enough to even have such things).

HKR,,RMPcieLinkSpeed,%REG_DWORD%,4

Under the headings [nv_commonBase_addreg__01] and [nv_commonBase_addreg__02] to make them applicable to all GPUs in the unified drivers. I doctor every driver that comes out before I install it and just run Test Mode all the time so I don't have to mess with an advanced options boot in Windows 8.1 and disable driver signing enforcment everytime I need to install a tweaked driver(not just graphics).

To enable Test Mode just enter Bcdedit.exe -set TESTSIGNING ON in an elevated cmd prompt and reboot to enable it and Bcdedit.exe -set TESTSIGNING OFF to disable. There are other ways I allude to above but they take longer to explain and you can search them on your own this post is already going to be long.

Or you can put it in the daisy chain of install headers for your specific card by searching your card name at the base of the nvdisp(i).inf to find the headers your gpu will fall under to see all the dlls and installer lines that apply to your specific gpu. For instance lets say we have a GTX 780 search 780 at the bottom and we come up with this line NVIDIA_DEV.1004 = "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780". The first half of the equation is what we are looking for NVIDIA_DEV.1004 now simply pick your OS.

From the proper sections headered(near the top of the inf)
[NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.0] = NT 6.0 = Vista or Server 2008
[NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.1]= NT 6.1 = Windows 7 or Server 2008 R2
[NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.2]= NT 6.2 = Windows 8 or Server 2012
[NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.3]= NT 6.3 = Windows 8.1

Referencing the correct line provides %NVIDIA_DEV.1004% = Section095, PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1004 from the recent 322.21 drivers skipping to Section 95 lists.

[Section095]
AddReg = nv_DRS_addreg
AddReg = nv_FTS_addreg
AddReg = nv_commonBase_addreg__01
AddReg = nv_commonDisplayModes_addreg__02
AddReg = nv_controlPanel_addreg
AddReg = nv_global_addreg
AddReg = nv_miscBase_addreg__15
AddReg = nv_opengl_addreg
AddReg = nv_timingRestrictions_addreg
CopyFiles = nv_Drs_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_cplSetup_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_detoured32_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_detoured_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_license_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_nvsmi_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_opencl_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_sysDrivers_copyfiles
CopyFiles = nv_system32_copyfiles__07
CopyFiles = nv_syswow64_copyfiles__07
DelFiles = nv_nvsmi_delfiles
DelFiles = nv_sysDrivers_delfiles
DelFiles = nv_system32_delfiles
DelFiles = nv_system64_delfiles
DelReg = nv_clearRegistrySwitches_delreg
FeatureScore = DA
NVAllowIR3DDriverPreStage = 1
NVSupport3DVision = 1
NVSupportDisplayUpdate = 1
NVSupportGFExperienceExtendedOptions = 1
NVSupportPhysx = 1
RegisterDLLs = nv_common_registerdll__02

This lists the sections of the nvdisp(i).inf the installer will reference for your specific card which the 2 most common labeled [nv_commonBase_addreg__01] and [nv_commonBase_addreg__02] one of which is listed here(as they are for almost every card I have taken the time to look up) and others specific to this model/generation of card you can put your tweaks in any of these AddReg registry sections but the most common and universal are the 2 I have listed. They end up in this key in the registry (the folders in regedit are called keys the individual items are call strings dwords etc etc.)

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video\{E39C18FB-BF88-4095-AA99-AC182ABC71F0}\0000 where {E39C18FB-BF88-4095-AA99-AC182ABC71F0} is your unique Display GUID. It is easy to tell which one because it will have more 0000 0001 0002 0003 folders than the others.

Also if you go to:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video\{E39C18FB-BF88-4095-AA99-AC182ABC71F0}\0000 where {E39C18FB-BF88-4095-AA99-AC182ABC71F0} is your unique Display GUID. It is easy to tell which one because it will have more 0000 0001 0002 0003 folders than the others

There will be a registry string titled NV_Modes sometimes if a game will not launch at native resolution like Borderlands 2 you can just go to this string and change the 2560x1600 res in the string to 2560x1440 then the game should switch to native res on its own(if you change the config file so it launches at that res or you can just switch that res and it will be listed in the menus as it should).

Some games dont run at higher than 60hz because they are locked internally(console ports). If you clock via the NV control panel and are running the higher hz then you should see the option in the game or you have to find the config file for the game and do it manually or add it as a exe cmdline flag in a shortcut or via launch options in steam or game properties cmd line arguments via origin(some games that used to be unlocked console and are now console locked some of the old cvars can still be used in this manner the new cods are a good example).

If you are getting colored dotted lines in your display it could be interference in your DVI cable or if you notice it increases with time most likely your chips inside your monitor are overheating its not a bad idea to open it up and use some thermal epoxy on the corners of the chip with a swath of thermal paste down the middle to apply heatsinks to the Explore EP269 Pixel chip and or the Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q inverter chips inside the back panel of the internal monitor panel something good wth high W/mK like phobya hegrease or phobya nanogrease non capacitive non conductive so it doesnt get on traces and leads and short your board or stick to the chip after prolonged use causing you to rip the chip apart like coollaboratory liquid pro.

Make sure no speakers or fans are close to your DVI cable as the magnets will cause interference in the lines other than that ensure good connections and cool the chips or you may be stuck with it. Blobs in the screen as far as I know cannot be fixed unless you were to change some internal voltage of the panel which could be very risky or its a defect which cannot be fixed but if its only showing up at higher hz maybe there could be a voltage fix for it but good luck on figuring that out because no one has done anything that detailed yet.

P.S. Always clean your drivers with Driver Fusion(free off majorgeeks + other sites) then reboot into testsigning mode as detailed above to install your modified drivers. Its best to check perform clean install and to not install stereo drivers or nvidia update or nvidia audio drivers unless you use those.


----------



## TheSilentCircus

So I finally decided I've had enough of this stand and grabbed an HP ZR22W monitor stand for 30 bucks on Amazon as advised in the OP. I'm kicking myself for not investing in this sooner cause wow it's so much better for adjusting and stability! Highly recommended!


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> After using CRU and OC'n my X-star to 120hz, I can't watch any videos. They are blank screen.
> I have tried going back to 60hz using 2nd LCD which is not OC'd and even moving 2nd LCD to Intel inboard GPU.
> Anyone seen this?
> Thanks


I fixed this once and now can't remember how.... Thanks drugs...









No video using Windows Media Player after CRU Overclock. VLC plays fine and Youtube plays fine.

What am I missing??


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> I fixed this once and now can't remember how.... Thanks drugs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No video using Windows Media Player after CRU Overclock. VLC plays fine and Youtube plays fine.
> 
> What am I missing??


Something to do with hardware acceleration? I thought that's what I have read.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Something to do with hardware acceleration? I thought that's what I have read.


that is usually the fix for flash video but I thought there was something different for local avi no video playback.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> that is usually the fix for flash video but I thought there was something different for local avi no video playback.


I wasnt really sure, just trying to pass along something I thought I read, based purely on memory.


----------



## ColdFlo

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=373845 This looks interesting for copying custom resolutions from one driver install to another with nvidia. Not sure how to type it by hand tho looks like hex code.

Are you talking Media Player Classic Home Cinema with madvr and lav(there are tons of guides on setting this up). This is the best way to watch video on a pc bar none. Blows WMP and VLC clean out of the water and it should be monitor hz independent. Time to upgrade noob.


----------



## Pure2sin

Does anyone have this monitor stand that could post a pic of it attached to their monitor? It a Shimian stand but should work with our monitors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111164926510?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648


----------



## Balsagna

Hey all,

So I have an HP 1920x1080p monitor that sucks and is actually going out on me and with the hardware I have in my computer, there is no reason why I shouldn't be running a 1440p monitor. That being said, I've been looking at the Korean monitors both IPS and PLS.

I've been out of OCN for a bit so I'm a bit behind on all this tech, but that said - I'm looking for the best monitor for around let's say, $400? Would like to get one that overclocks and with the perfect pixel as well as little bleed as possible. You know, basically the best I can get, which ones would be the best at this point right now? I mostly play League of Legends and will be playing Star Citizen and probaby Titanfall.

Basically looking for a perfect pixel, overclocking (would love to get 120hz) and just proven/quality

Would going PLS or IPS be better for this? Are there any good suppliers that are working best with eveyrone and are there any small details I ought to know? Apolgies for not reading through the 1400 pages... this would be easier for me









Thanks in advance


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Glad you have got your tracking number now...that's has to be one of the slowest shipments i have seen reported from any of these sellers!...but glad its on the way for you now


I must have been really bad in a former life or something! Nearly a week to leave ExcellentCastle's warehouse and DHL tracking says an estimated delivery of 13th March????????? W.......T........F?

Is this a flipping joke or what?

It's clearly not being flown but waiting for some container ship.

So you can chalk this up as a negative review for ExcellentCastle Expedited International Shipping


----------



## bigtonyman1138

Pretty Stoked!! New x-star monitor should be here tomorrow. Now just to wait for my buddy to buy my 770 so I can upgrade to a 780 ti classy.


----------



## ShrewLlama

I'm building a new rig on the weekend and am getting a new monitor - a QNIX QX2710 (I've purchased a Perfect Pixel monitor for A$360, which is a pretty good deal) to go with it.



Spoiler: Build Specs



CPU - Intel Core i5 4670K
Mobo - ASRock Z87 Extreme4
RAM - G.Skill TridentX 2400MHz 8GB (2x8G)
GPU - Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 WindForce OC w/ BF4
SSD - Samsung 840 EVO 250GB
ODD - ASUS 24x DVD-RW
WiFi - TP-Link TL-WN881ND PCI-e 300Mbps
PSU - SilverStone Strider Gold ST85F-GS
Fan - BF Spectre PRO 200mm + CM Xtraflo 120mm
C+WC - CM 690 III + CM Seidon 120V



As I am intending to overclock it to (hopefully) 120Hz, I have heard I will need a high-quality DVI Dual-Link cable to go with it.
Unfortunately, here in Australia the thickest 24AWG cables are expensive (especially with shipping... no one seems to sell the super-thick ones locally) which is why I'm hoping I can get away with a 26~28AWG cable, but I want to double-check.

I've narrowed it down to three options:

28AWG with Ferrite Cores - A$6.45

26AWG without Ferrite cores - A$7.95

A 24AWG cable with Ferrite cores would cost almost $40 shipped to Australia - however if it'll make a significant difference I'm fine with paying the extra.

Are ferrite cores important? If so I have a few spare clip-on ones I can use if I get the 26AWG. I'm hoping the 26 or 28AWG cable is fine though, it'll save me some dough.

Thanks.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Does OCing the monitor actually affect the pc performance negatively?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> I must have been really bad in a former life or something! Nearly a week to leave ExcellentCastle's warehouse and DHL tracking says an estimated delivery of 13th March????????? W.......T........F?
> 
> Is this a flipping joke or what?
> 
> It's clearly not being flown but waiting for some container ship.
> 
> So you can chalk this up as a negative review for ExcellentCastle Expedited International Shipping


I would ask him why it is going to take so long when you have many friends who received there's in only a few days?... i would also tell him that you was recommended to him....however i would point out to him that you would not or could not recommend him to anyone else after this as you know if you had bought from any other seller your monitor would of been at your house days ago....see what he says


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Does OCing the monitor actually affect the pc performance negatively?


If i thought it did i would not be running at 120hz 24/7....the only difference most will find when buying one of these monitors is that if they want to play games at 1440 they need more graphical horse power...but this fact has nothing to do with weather you are running overclocked at 96/120hz becarse it would be the same running at any hertz including 60hz...to run these monitors overclocked all you are doing simply put and with the use of CRU in some cases and ToastyX patches is telling your graphic driver that you have a monitor capable of running at 96/120hz and the monitor does the rest or the work.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrewLlama*
> 
> I'm building a new rig on the weekend and am getting a new monitor - a QNIX QX2710 (I've purchased a Perfect Pixel monitor for A$360, which is a pretty good deal) to go with it.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Build Specs
> 
> 
> 
> CPU - Intel Core i5 4670K
> Mobo - ASRock Z87 Extreme4
> RAM - G.Skill TridentX 2400MHz 8GB (2x8G)
> GPU - Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 WindForce OC w/ BF4
> SSD - Samsung 840 EVO 250GB
> ODD - ASUS 24x DVD-RW
> WiFi - TP-Link TL-WN881ND PCI-e 300Mbps
> PSU - SilverStone Strider Gold ST85F-GS
> Fan - BF Spectre PRO 200mm + CM Xtraflo 120mm
> C+WC - CM 690 III + CM Seidon 120V
> 
> 
> 
> As I am intending to overclock it to (hopefully) 120Hz, I have heard I will need a high-quality DVI Dual-Link cable to go with it.
> Unfortunately, here in Australia the thickest 24AWG cables are expensive (especially with shipping... no one seems to sell the super-thick ones locally) which is why I'm hoping I can get away with a 26~28AWG cable, but I want to double-check.
> 
> I've narrowed it down to three options:
> 
> 28AWG with Ferrite Cores - A$6.45
> 
> 26AWG without Ferrite cores - A$7.95
> 
> A 24AWG cable with Ferrite cores would cost almost $40 shipped to Australia - however if it'll make a significant difference I'm fine with paying the extra.
> 
> Are ferrite cores important? If so I have a few spare clip-on ones I can use if I get the 26AWG. I'm hoping the 26 or 28AWG cable is fine though, it'll save me some dough.
> 
> Thanks.


Many have found that they could hit 120hz with the duel DVI-D that the sellers supplies...i would wait and try the supplied cable before you spend silly money on a new DVI-D cable that you most likely wont need


----------



## Pascual

I could get to 100Hz with the supplied cable but is it worth me buying a "high quality" cable to try and hit 120?


----------



## ColdFlo

The difference between IPS and PLS doesn't come down so much to performance as it does the different colorspaces used by Samsung and LG as Samsung is the only provider of PLS and LG is the manufacturer of most if not all overclockable IPS panels. LG is more like the old sony trinitron with the orangy reds and baby light blue skies I like but the problem is is it doesn't work very well in the 1000:1 reality 800:1 contrast ratio of an lcd panel(go to walmart and compare the look of Samsung TVs and LG TVs and decide for yourself this is the best way to see this without having both monitors). It tends to look too bright and washed out by the lack of the black depth(all lcd has horrible black depth cant wait for oled to come down in price gonna be god of god screen lcd will disappear from market once this happens) of the panel making everything look cartoony. The Samsung color space with its purpleish blues and overall darker look comes off more cinematic in the reduced contrast space looking more realistic while maybe not true to lifelike colors more like the Sony Trinitron colors which are bright and sunny(much like Nikon and Canon Nikon darker cinematic Canon brighter sunnier better outdoor photos better highlights LCD is not capable of good highlights tho thats the problem) . Most of the LG overclockables are more expensive tho I haven't monitored the Ebay market recently by now something better than Qnix and Xstar may have come along.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> I must have been really bad in a former life or something! Nearly a week to leave ExcellentCastle's warehouse and DHL tracking says an estimated delivery of 13th March????????? W.......T........F?
> 
> Is this a flipping joke or what?
> 
> It's clearly not being flown but waiting for some container ship.
> 
> So you can chalk this up as a negative review for ExcellentCastle Expedited International Shipping


I'm sorry to hear this. It is strange that your experience and mine were so different. I wonder if he ran out of the monitors briefly are something.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pascual*
> 
> I could get to 100Hz with the supplied cable but is it worth me buying a "high quality" cable to try and hit 120?


You might be able to hit 120hz by simply using another DVI-D port on your graphics card using the same cable as you are now if have another DVI-D port to try....i think sparton F8 hit his lowest pixel clock from a random cable he found at work after trying 30 different cables...it is not a guarantee that buying an expensive cable will give you any gain at all.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> If anyone has the time to do so, please do me a favor:
> 
> 1) Download flux, an application that allows you to change the color temperature of your monitor:
> http://http://justgetflux.com/
> 
> 2) Run your monitor at 120hz
> 
> 3) View a white background
> 
> 4) See if there are massive orange blobs everywhere. Because this is whats happening to me.
> 
> I'm also having the exact opposite of backlight bleed; The corners and edges of the display are dark, regardless of what clock speed the monitor is running at. Almost like a "no-light bleed".


Ya these monitors experience "Dirty Screen Effect" when overclocked, i would bet that the panel is completely even at 60hz. Try to find a lower Pixel Clock if possible - 459Mhz is the lowest afaik.


----------



## digitalforce

Just got a new GLOSSY Qnix instead of my Matte Qnix. LOVING it so far. That being said, my profile from lawson67 (thanks!) looks green on this panel. I found another but it is still too orange. Does anyone have a 96hz and 120hz profiles that actually make the whites, WHITE?! I look at my iPhone and Macbook Pro then my Qnix and the Qnix looks ORANGE after seeing those bright whites.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigtonyman1138*
> 
> Pretty Stoked!! New x-star monitor should be here tomorrow. Now just to wait for my buddy to buy my 770 so I can upgrade to a 780 ti classy.


I have both the X-Star and the 780 Ti Classified. It's pure sex for your eyes. Also, the Classified is amazing. I was able to hit 1303MHz boost with just +145 on the core and max power target.


----------



## ProperMod

digitalforce, did you get a "real" glossy or a matte with the tempered glass over it? the glass does change the appear of the naked screen somewhat.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProperMod*
> 
> digitalforce, did you get a "real" glossy or a matte with the tempered glass over it? the glass does change the appear of the naked screen somewhat.


Proper -- I got the real glossy. I hate the tempered glass version.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Just got a new GLOSSY Qnix instead of my Matte Qnix. LOVING it so far. That being said, my profile from lawson67 (thanks!) looks green on this panel. I found another but it is still too orange. Does anyone have a 96hz and 120hz profiles that actually make the whites, WHITE?! I look at my iPhone and Macbook Pro then my Qnix and the Qnix looks ORANGE after seeing those bright whites.


Every monitor is different than other monitors. We can't know what profile would look white on your monitor until you try it.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Just got a new GLOSSY Qnix instead of my Matte Qnix. LOVING it so far. That being said, my profile from lawson67 (thanks!) looks green on this panel. I found another but it is still too orange. Does anyone have a 96hz and 120hz profiles that actually make the whites, WHITE?! I look at my iPhone and Macbook Pro then my Qnix and the Qnix looks ORANGE after seeing those bright whites.


I will upload the one I am using (not mine, and the owner deleted it for an updated profile that is too green). It's slightly blue as opposed to most profiles, which are either too green, too yellow, or too red (for my monitor). It's only for 96 Hz, though.

https://www.mediafire.com/?u34jc9fjh7h4js4


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Just got a new GLOSSY Qnix instead of my Matte Qnix. LOVING it so far. That being said, my profile from lawson67 (thanks!) looks green on this panel. I found another but it is still too orange. Does anyone have a 96hz and 120hz profiles that actually make the whites, WHITE?! I look at my iPhone and Macbook Pro then my Qnix and the Qnix looks ORANGE after seeing those bright whites.


You might have to buy yourself a colorimeter... as far as i know no one who owns a glossy Qinx on this forum has a colorimeter...or i have not seen an ICC profile that clams it was calibrated from a glossy screen...colors from a glossy screen will project differently into a colorimeter than from a matte screen so it would make scene that you would need to find an ICC profile that has been calibrated on a glossy screen or buy yourself a colorimeter...also it depends which color point people have calibrated to...if you calibrated to 6500k its a dam sight cooler than an ICC profile that calibrated at 5000k which is very warm compared to 6500k...neither is the wrong white point if i was editing pictures in the evening i would calibrate to a white point of 5000k ..6500k is surposed to be the equivalent of day light and my native white point is 6551k and i always calibrate to my monitors native white point


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> I will upload the one I am using (not mine, and the owner deleted it for an updated profile that is too green). It's slightly blue as opposed to most profiles, which are either too green, too yellow, or too red (for my monitor). It's only for 96 Hz, though.
> 
> https://www.mediafire.com/?u34jc9fjh7h4js4


This is an awesome step in the right direction! Thank you! I don't know what it is but my old Yamakasi Q270, my iPhone and my Macbook Pro has SUPER bright whites.

Anyone have any more "blueish" 96hz or 120hz profiles? I'd love to try them.

Lawson, what is the best colorimeter these days for a decent price? I'd rather try more profiles first but most are too orange/yellow/green for this panel. Riadon's looks pretty great though.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> This is an awesome step in the right direction! Thank you! I don't know what it is but my old Yamakasi Q270, my iPhone and my Macbook Pro has SUPER bright whites.
> 
> Anyone have any more "blueish" 96hz or 120hz profiles? I'd love to try them.
> 
> Lawson, what is the best colorimeter these days for a decent price? I'd rather try more profiles first but most are too orange/yellow/green for this panel. Riadon's looks pretty great though.


If you are an NVIDIA user, turning Digital Vibrance up to 57% or so in NVCP will help (at least in my case). Overclocking dulls the colors a bit for me.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> This is an awesome step in the right direction! Thank you! I don't know what it is but my old Yamakasi Q270, my iPhone and my Macbook Pro has SUPER bright whites.
> 
> Anyone have any more "blueish" 96hz or 120hz profiles? I'd love to try them.
> 
> Lawson, what is the best colorimeter these days for a decent price? I'd rather try more profiles first but most are too orange/yellow/green for this panel. Riadon's looks pretty great though.


I am happy with my Spyder 4 but i use it with dispcalGUI software and the spyder 4 express is cheap and uses the same sensor as the spyder 4 elite so getting a spyder 4 express and using it with dispcalGUI is a cheap option.....but there are others to consider also like the X-Rite ColorMunki....i personally am more than happy with my spyder 4 using it with dispcalGUI...anyhow try these below i created them at different white points you might find one you like?....let me know...i personally don't like any of them as i like using my monitors natural native white point calibrations

SamsungQnixiccprofiles.zip 12k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> If you are an NVIDIA user, turning Digital Vibrance up to 57% or so in NVCP will help (at least in my case). Overclocking dulls the colors a bit for me.


I tried turning up Digital Vibrance at one point and it looked great on the desktop...but in games even only at 53% i found that it made them look far more cartoonish for me..so i stopped using Digital Vibrance.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I am happy with my Spyder 4 but i use it with dispcalGUI software and the spyder 4 express is cheap and uses the same sensor as the spyder 4 elite so getting a spyder 4 express and using it with dispcalGUI is a cheap option.....but there are others to consider also like the X-Rite ColorMunki....i personally am more than happy with my spyder 4 using it with dispcalGUI...anyhow try these below i created them at different white points you might find one you like?....let me know...i personally don't like any of them as i like using my monitors natural native white point calibrations
> 
> SamsungQnixiccprofiles.zip 12k .zip file


Lawson, I tried all those are they are WAY orange/yellow on my display. I need something with a much higher white point -- 6500K+ I am guessing.

So far, Riadon's 96hz profile is amazing but still a TINY bit yellow. I am super picky though









That being said, this glossy Qnix is GORGEOUS compared to my Matte Qnix.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Lawson, I tried all those are they are WAY orange/yellow on my display. I need something with a much higher white point -- 6500K+ I am guessing.
> 
> So far, Riadon's 96hz profile is amazing but still a TINY bit yellow. I am super picky though


They are the best i can offer you!.. there is 1 in there that i calibrated at 6500k it says in the ICC profiles name what white point i calibrated them too.. as i say if you are super picky you might want to buy a colorimeter than you know its perfect for your monitor and if you do get one just calibrate to your monitors native white point and i am sure you will be more than happy with the results


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Lawson, I tried all those are they are WAY orange/yellow on my display. I need something with a much higher white point -- 6500K+ I am guessing.
> 
> So far, Riadon's 96hz profile is amazing but still a TINY bit yellow. I am super picky though


Another reason to get a colorimeter and do it yourself. My Colormunki Display will be here tomorrow, total price, $139..99 from ebay.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Lawson, I tried all those are they are WAY orange/yellow on my display. I need something with a much higher white point -- 6500K+ I am guessing.
> 
> So far, Riadon's 96hz profile is amazing but still a TINY bit yellow. I am super picky though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That being said, this glossy Qnix is GORGEOUS compared to my Matte Qnix.


Hang on a second i think basICColor display 5 will let me choose a silly custom white point....let me try one at 7500k for you if i can do it ....which i think i can


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hang on a second i think basICColor display 5 will let me choose a silly custom white point....let me try one at 7500k for you if i can do it ....which i think i can


That would be awesome! 6700-7500k would be interesting. You rock all! I really appreciate your help and patience.


----------



## lawson67

Try this 120hz profile i tried to hit 7500k...its very cool on mine so it should be going near to what you want give it a go

120hz-7500kQnix.zip 70k .zip file


----------



## netdevil

My QNIX was gonna fall face flat on the desk due to that wonky stand. Although I managed to "break the fall" with my arm , now theres a black line at the bottom of the screen reckon its a whole row of dead pixels


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> So I have an HP 1920x1080p monitor that sucks and is actually going out on me and with the hardware I have in my computer, there is no reason why I shouldn't be running a 1440p monitor. That being said, I've been looking at the Korean monitors both IPS and PLS.
> 
> I've been out of OCN for a bit so I'm a bit behind on all this tech, but that said - I'm looking for the best monitor for around let's say, $400? Would like to get one that overclocks and with the perfect pixel as well as little bleed as possible. You know, basically the best I can get, which ones would be the best at this point right now? I mostly play League of Legends and will be playing Star Citizen and probaby Titanfall.
> 
> Basically looking for a perfect pixel, overclocking (would love to get 120hz) and just proven/quality
> 
> Would going PLS or IPS be better for this? Are there any good suppliers that are working best with eveyrone and are there any small details I ought to know? Apolgies for not reading through the 1400 pages... this would be easier for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance


^


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> This is an awesome step in the right direction! Thank you! I don't know what it is but my old Yamakasi Q270, my iPhone and my Macbook Pro has SUPER bright whites.
> 
> Anyone have any more "blueish" 96hz or 120hz profiles? I'd love to try them.
> 
> Lawson, what is the best colorimeter these days for a decent price? I'd rather try more profiles first but most are too orange/yellow/green for this panel. Riadon's looks pretty great though.


I posted a 96hz one a couple pages back

http://speedyshare.com/eHDma/qnix-qx2710-96hz.icm

click on the name of the profile next to Download: to download it


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try this 120hz profile i tried to hit 7500k...its very cool on mine so it should be going near to what you want give it a go
> 
> 120hz-7500kQnix.zip 70k .zip file


That is too blue 

7000k at 96 and 120? I need to Paypal you or something Lawson!


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> I posted a 96hz one a couple pages back
> 
> http://speedyshare.com/eHDma/qnix-qx2710-96hz.icm
> 
> click on the name of the profile next to Download: to download it


Looks good but still yellow compared to Rodians. I know we are shooting in the dark but it is VERY close here ;-)


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> My QNIX was gonna fall face flat on the desk due to that wonky stand. Although I managed to "break the fall" with my arm , now theres a black line at the bottom of the screen reckon its a whole row of dead pixels


I had a similar situation just after I got mine. Was scooting it forward and it tipped right over to fall on its face... I caught it but only by jamming my thumbs into the screen. I'm lucky nothing bad happened.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Looks good but still yellow compared to Rodians. I know we are shooting in the dark but it is VERY close here ;-)


are you saying my profile is really close to what you want? i can do another calibration haha.


----------



## digitalforce

This is the closest to bright whites on my glossy display at 96hz... (Rodian)

http://speedyshare.com/WBQ56/QNIX-QX2710-96hz-updated-RoadianCopy.icm

I don't know how Apple's screens are calibrated by like I said, my iPhone 5 and Macbook Pro screens are bright white. If I put it side by side to the Qnix, even with Rodian's profile, the whites are more like pale yellow.


----------



## metalion1111

Hello, just begining a new pc journey, ordered all my new parts and waiting for arrival, Im getting my monitor from dream-seller (finger crossed) I havent built my own computer since pentium 4 days so It should be interesting, I hope this monitor fires up nicely once its all together. heres a basic rundown of my new system if you care to see. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/31nIs. So given that this is new stuff Im putting together I shouldnt have any issues with this monitor firing up with all new parts ,,, right.?
Oh yea Im getting the x-star $279.00 one.


----------



## SiNiquity

Hi all, long time follower of this thread first time poster.

I just got my X-star that I ordered from dream-seller on Ebay. Unfortunately it seems to be defective - there's a sharp purple line right down the middle of the monitor that fades a bit towards the top. It's really unfortunate too because otherwise the monitor is fantastic - very minor backlight bleed on the left side that could likely be fixed.









Pictures of line:

http://i.imgur.com/Wsjueoh.jpg (white background)
http://i.imgur.com/cDHAanY.jpg (dark grey background showing the xstar logo)

Is there anything I can do to fix this, or am I stuck paying shipping back to Korea and cutting my losses?


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> This is the closest to bright whites on my glossy display at 96hz... (Rodian)
> 
> http://speedyshare.com/WBQ56/QNIX-QX2710-96hz-updated-RoadianCopy.icm
> 
> I don't know how Apple's screens are calibrated by like I said, my iPhone 5 and Macbook Pro screens are bright white. If I put it side by side to the Qnix, even with Rodian's profile, the whites are more like pale yellow.


Roadian, Rodian? Who?









Anyways, try these (Vesanius' profiles, not mine, both 17 clicks):

http://www.overclock.net/attachments/20745 (96)

http://www.overclock.net/attachments/20746 (110)

I prefer the one I posted earlier, but these might work for you.


----------



## digitalforce

Sorry Riadon...









Both of those links point to a 110hz profile.


----------



## metalion1111

Siniquity, Contact seller, and show him the picture he should pay the shipping back, read his return policy on the ebay page. Let us know how this goes,l sorry to hear that by the way.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Sorry Riadon...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of those links point to a 110hz profile.


Fixed, my bad.

http://www.overclock.net/attachments/20745


----------



## Kold

Forgive me if this has been covered, but I just tried (for the first time) to OC my X-Star.

I downloaded cru-1.1.1 and opened it.

I clicked on the default profile listed under detailed resolutions and chose edit.

The only thing I changed in the edit screen was Refresh rate: 59.950 to 96. I clicked OK.

Before clicking OK on the main CRU screen, I unchecked "Include extension block."

Once I clicked OK, I restarted my computer and it booted to a black screen with a bunch of orangish lines all over the place that moved around a bit.

I turned off the computer, plugged my DVI cable into the other port on my 780 ti, booted into safe mode, clicked the "reset-all" file and restarted.

Here I am wondering what went wrong? I also did not use the Nvidia Patcher as the guide on page 1 said not to use it at first.

Any help is appreciated! I only want 96 Hz.


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys will a 5450 run this monitor? Searched the thread one guy said yes others said no. Looking for the cheapest gpu I can find that can be used and 5450 goes for $25.


----------



## metalion1111

anyone using a GTX 770 4gb? How do they do with these monitors. Hopefully I didnt get the wrong card. I would have like to get the 780 but I was trying to save some $


----------



## bigtonyman1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metalion1111*
> 
> anyone using a GTX 770 4gb? How do they do with these monitors. Hopefully I didnt get the wrong card. I would have like to get the 780 but I was trying to save some $


what games you trying to play? I got my xstar today, but League of legends, SWTOR, and Bf4 all ran ok. idk what my framerate was in bf4 though. Grabbing a gtx 780 ti here in a few weeks though just for a nice boost.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metalion1111*
> 
> anyone using a GTX 770 4gb? How do they do with these monitors. Hopefully I didnt get the wrong card. I would have like to get the 780 but I was trying to save some $


GTX 770 2gb, running the same resolution on my Asus. Specs in my sig.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigtonyman1138*
> 
> what games you trying to play? I got my xstar today, but League of legends, SWTOR, and Bf4 all ran ok. idk what my framerate was in bf4 though. Grabbing a gtx 780 ti here in a few weeks though just for a nice boost.


I run BF4 on Ultra, but only play the SP, like you, not sure of my FPS, but it isn't choppy that's for sure.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey Lawson I read that I need to click 17 times from a black screen up so I get a good result, are tapping the button shortly or do you hold if for a moment? I like it pretty bright actually and if I do 17 clicks the colourrs don't really shne as much.


----------



## ShrewLlama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey guys will a 5450 run this monitor? Searched the thread one guy said yes others said no. Looking for the cheapest gpu I can find that can be used and 5450 goes for $25.


Any with a dual-link DVI port should be able to run this monitor.

As it looks like the 5450 has a dual-link DVI port, yes, it should work fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Many have found that they could hit 120hz with the duel DVI-D that the sellers supplies...i would wait and try the supplied cable before you spend silly money on a new DVI-D cable that you most likely wont need


I'll give the stock one a try then... and if it doesn't hit 120Hz I'll get one of the 26AWG cables and see if that helps.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey so I oc'd the monitor and the 96 and 120 hz options apear in CCC, however when I test it on www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping it only displays 60 fps any sulotions?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Hey so I oc'd the monitor and the 96 and 120 hz options apear in CCC, however when I test it on www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping it only displays 60 fps any sulotions?


Have you tried using Chrome?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Have you tried using Chrome?


That's what I thought too, I tried firefox and chrome and both displayed an fps of 60.
Drivers are up to date (beta) and I'm using a Radeon HD 7850


----------



## nickj2014

I'm wondering what my fellow UK people experienced with customs, as my monitor has been sat awaiting customs clearance since the 23rd...

Pretty annoying as I've been off all week so could of accepted delivery on any day.


----------



## Naxxy

Hey guys i ordered the QNIX monitor a few days ago and while im waiting for it to be delivered i was looking around for a replacement mount.

I found this Ergotron one: Ergotron Neo-Flex® LCD Stand

Its suggested for 24" monitors but do you think it will be solid enough to hold the 27" ?

I know there are many alternatives but unfortunately all the monitor mounts i seem to find (dell, hp etc etc) that can work with this monitor are all on sale in the United States and the delivery expenses to Italy make it a no for me.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> Hey guys i ordered the QNIX monitor a few days ago and while im waiting for it to be delivered i was looking around for a replacement mount.
> 
> I found this Ergotron one: Ergotron Neo-Flex® LCD Stand
> 
> Its suggested for 24" monitors but do you think it will be solid enough to hold the 27" ?
> 
> I know there are many alternatives but unfortunately all the monitor mounts i seem to find (dell, hp etc etc) that can work with this monitor are all on sale in the United States and the delivery expenses to Italy make it a no for me.


Yes it does, I've the same one and the only important number is the max. weight that it can carry. The only problem with this stand ist that you have to tilt the monitor up if you want to rotate it in an 90° angle.


----------



## doco

the other problem is the monitor won't stand at the max height the ergotron stand will allow due to the weight. it will fall a little by itself and set itself around here as the picture i took below is shown. other than that, you're good to use it for the qnix.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Yes it does, I've the same one and the only important number is the max. weight that it can carry. The only problem with this stand ist that you have to tilt the monitor up if you want to rotate it in an 90° angle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> the other problem is the monitor won't stand at the max height the ergotron stand will allow due to the weight. it will fall a little by itself and set itself around here as the picture i took below is shown. other than that, you're good to use it for the qnix.


Thanks for your info seems that is good but not perfect. ill do some more research then and see if i can find something better on sale somewhere close to italy


----------



## spikexp

I personally use a Arctic Z1 and an Arctic Z2 and both are great for my monitor.


----------



## bcham

hi,thinking of buying a qnix or other Korean monitor,but i only have an asus gtx670 will it be enough for bf4 on high setting i play on ultra now at 1080p averaging 55 to 65 fps ,also my monitor is a hp 2310ei glossy screen, and im thinking will 1440p look any better than this,
should i buy now and probably upgrade to an gtx 780 when the prices are lower next year. if so which is the best glossy screen monitor to go for,
thanks.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikexp*
> 
> I personally use a Arctic Z1 and an Arctic Z2 and both are great for my monitor.


The problem with those is that i want a stand not an "arm" i have a glass desk and an attachable arm is a no for me. But tnx for the info


----------



## Tjalling

Hey guys, this may also be of interest to some of you. I was researching which seller to purchase from, and did some quick 'n dirty statistical analysis on which seller's products are least likely to produce errors.

It's not meant to be conclusive or even valid, as the opinions of users are inherently subjective and standards vary amongst us. For example, some may not consider their panel to show any BLB, while others would spot some in a heartbeat and will forever be annoyed by it; laying awake at night thinking about that one dark spot.

Another point is that I did not differentiate between pixel-perfect and non-pixel perfect panels: if you want a panel without dead pixels, spend the extra buck for a pixel-perfect model. Put otherwise, the only real statistic of value is the one on BLB.

Lastly, the sample size is not nearly enough to draw any real conclusions anyway, especially for some of the subcategories. Disclaimer over, here it is:


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Forgive me if this has been covered, but I just tried (for the first time) to OC my X-Star.
> 
> I downloaded cru-1.1.1 and opened it.
> 
> I clicked on the default profile listed under detailed resolutions and chose edit.
> 
> The only thing I changed in the edit screen was Refresh rate: 59.950 to 96. I clicked OK.
> 
> Before clicking OK on the main CRU screen, I unchecked "Include extension block."
> 
> Once I clicked OK, I restarted my computer and it booted to a black screen with a bunch of orangish lines all over the place that moved around a bit.
> 
> I turned off the computer, plugged my DVI cable into the other port on my 780 ti, booted into safe mode, clicked the "reset-all" file and restarted.
> 
> Here I am wondering what went wrong? I also did not use the Nvidia Patcher as the guide on page 1 said not to use it at first.
> 
> Any help is appreciated! I only want 96 Hz.


Hi and sorry to hear that you are having problems with overclocking your monitor... this is what i advise you to do,

1: Open CRU and hit delete in the top right hand corner
2: Find the reset-all.exe and run it....you will find it in the CRU zip file
3: reboot
4 download the X-Star monitor driver file below and install it.....(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the X-Star.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

5: Go to Nvidia control panel and navigate to custom resolutions and make your 96hz there...also at 96hz you should not need to use optimized timings so just make a custom resolution and change the 60hz to 96hz...

Using this method and NOT using CRU with Nvidia drivers will enable you to keep Nvidia Geforce experience installed.... ..Nvidia Geforce experience conflicts with the EDID overrides that CRU uses for your custom resalutions...with Nvidia drivers you have 2 choices if you are going to use CRU.

1: Uninstall .Nvidia Geforce experience
2 In CRU Check the "Include extension block." and import the blank-extension.dat which you did not do because you did not know about this because the OP needs up dating...also i tried using the blank-extension.dat while using CRU and leaving Nvidia Geforce experience install.... and i can tell you this method is NOT 100% reliable as in sometimes window could see my custom resolutions and other times could not!...which is why you should use the monitor driver method and use the Nvidia control panel to create your custom resolutions.

After following the instruction from 1-4 you should not have any problems and if you still do then use the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe .. however this driver monitor method enables you to keep Nvidia Geforce experience installed with no conflicts...i hope this helps









x-star.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjalling*
> 
> Hey guys, this may also be of interest to some of you. I was researching which seller to purchase from, and did some quick 'n dirty statistical analysis on which seller's products are least likely to produce errors.
> 
> It's not meant to be conclusive or even valid, as the opinions of users are inherently subjective and standards vary amongst us. For example, some may not consider their panel to show any BLB, while others would spot some in a heartbeat and will forever be annoyed by it; laying awake at night thinking about that one dark spot.
> 
> Another point is that I did not differentiate between pixel-perfect and non-pixel perfect panels: if you want a panel without dead pixels, spend the extra buck for a pixel-perfect model. Put otherwise, the only real statistic of value is the one on BLB.
> 
> Lastly, the sample size is not nearly enough to draw any real conclusions anyway, especially for some of the subcategories. Disclaimer over, here it is:


I like this i think its great!.. and we should work on it improving it even further!.. this why we need all members to tell us where\which seller they bought there monitor from and any defects it did or did not have...fantastic job Tjalling and a Rep coming your way!


----------



## s0nniez

Just received my XSTAR the other day. Overclocked to 100hz easy, wasn't stable on 120hz, but I will try to increase it from 100hz when I get my 290.

Bought from dream-seller, delivered in about 4 business days.

1 grey pixel at the very top, some backlight bleeding. Unstable stand, might invest in a better one.

But for $279.99, not bad, very impressed. 100hz is very nice.


----------



## enkur

I bought mine from Accessorieswhole and its great. No dead pixels and very little backlight bleed on the bottom right side.
Overclocks to 120Hz but couldnt get GTX 670 to downclock so switched to 110Hz profile and it downclocks just fine.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Does anybody know why it says that I've 60 fps, but I oc'd it to 96


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjalling*
> 
> Hey guys, this may also be of interest to some of you. I was researching which seller to purchase from, and did some quick 'n dirty statistical analysis on which seller's products are least likely to produce errors.
> 
> It's not meant to be conclusive or even valid, as the opinions of users are inherently subjective and standards vary amongst us. For example, some may not consider their panel to show any BLB, while others would spot some in a heartbeat and will forever be annoyed by it; laying awake at night thinking about that one dark spot.
> 
> Another point is that I did not differentiate between pixel-perfect and non-pixel perfect panels: if you want a panel without dead pixels, spend the extra buck for a pixel-perfect model. Put otherwise, the only real statistic of value is the one on BLB.
> 
> Lastly, the sample size is not nearly enough to draw any real conclusions anyway, especially for some of the subcategories. Disclaimer over, here it is:


Nice!!! I like the big disclaimer, lol. Rep!


----------



## digitalforce

My glossy Qnix from Bizaroo had very little to no BLB and no dead pixels. I am giddy like a little schoolgirl.

Thief, Castlevania 2 and Grim Dawn are gorgeous on this display!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> My glossy Qnix from Bizaroo had very little to no BLB and no dead pixels. I am giddy like a little schoolgirl.
> 
> Thief, Castlevania 2 and Grim Dawn are gorgeous on this display!


So you got the glossy that's over $600?


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> So you got the glossy that's over $600?


No, I got it from Bizaroo on Amazon for $359.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> No, I got it from Bizaroo on Amazon for $359.


so it's not matte over tempered glass but actual gloss panel?


----------



## Watagump

Every glossy I saw on ebay from the Korean sellers is over $600, sounds like you have a tempered glass. They also have DP, HDMI etc.


----------



## digitalforce

This is it...

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393625083&sr=8-1&keywords=glossy+qnix

I have a Matte Qnix sitting right next to it and the black levels and BLB is much worse on the matte.

Why are the eBay (real?) glossy so expensive?

Also, mine only has DVI... no other features. Blacks and colors are awesome but having a rough time finding a solid 120hz profile.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> This is it...
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393625083&sr=8-1&keywords=glossy+qnix
> 
> I have a Matte Qnix sitting right next to it and the black levels and BLB is much worse on the matte.
> 
> Why are the eBay (real?) glossy so expensive?
> 
> Also, mine only has DVI... no other features.


Well the ebay ones do have the better connection options, but over $600, gotta be more to them.


----------



## Watagump

Here is the tempered by the same guy.

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-Tempered-2560x1440/dp/B00EH9XKBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393625400&sr=8-1&keywords=glossy+qnix+tempered


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is the tempered by the same guy.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-Tempered-2560x1440/dp/B00EH9XKBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393625400&sr=8-1&keywords=glossy+qnix+tempered


Who knows -- I've never had a tempered glass. All I know is it's gorgeous besides all the matte ICM/ICC profiles are mostly too orange/yellow.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Why are the eBay (real?) glossy so expensive?


the rules of economics. the supply of the glossy monitors are running scarce and these ebay sellers know they sell like hot pancakes. it's the same thing with vintage vacuum tubes. they aren't worth $150 to $250 but they upmark them knowing there are some people out there who will pay the premium.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Who knows -- I've never had a tempered glass. All I know is it's gorgeous besides all the matte ICM/ICC profiles are mostly too orange/yellow.


Glossy was my first choice. But I didn't look on Amazon. To get glossy on ebay, with a good price, it was Monex as the choice, then you couldn't overclock. No way I was going to pay over $600 for a Korean to get everything. Oh well, just going to keep my PB278Q. Even though its a refurb, it was $434.92. Now I will always wonder if I missed out not getting glossy. Maybe next time.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> My glossy Qnix from Bizaroo had very little to no BLB and no dead pixels. I am giddy like a little schoolgirl.
> 
> Thief, Castlevania 2 and Grim Dawn are gorgeous on this display!


Castlevania Looks awesome on 1440p.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Glossy was my first choice. But I didn't look on Amazon. To get glossy on ebay, with a good price, it was Monex as the choice, then you couldn't overclock. No way I was going to pay over $600 for a Korean to get everything. Oh well, just going to keep my PB278Q. Even though its a refurb, it was $434.92. Now I will always wonder if I missed out not getting glossy. Maybe next time.


I hear you. I had a glossy Catleap that was GORGEOUS and perfect. I don't know if I can ever go back to 60hz after 96/120hz...

Either way, I can't tell if this is a tempered glass or glossy but it looks pretty fantastic so far.

Has anyone here tried a Monex? I read somewhere they have the deepest black levels of any of the Korean panels, including this glossy(?) Qnix. I might order one and sell it off if I don't like it. I don't care for matte displays anymore. I am spoiled with glossy ;-)

And yes, Castlevania is gorgeous albeit extremely flawed


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> 
> Does anybody know why it says that I've 60 fps, but I oc'd it to 96


Not sure myself but I hate the feeling of asking for help and getting swept under a pile of other unrelated posts so here's a bump for ya


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I hear you. I had a glossy Catleap that was GORGEOUS and perfect. I don't know if I can ever go back to 60hz after 96/120hz...
> 
> Either way, I can't tell if this is a tempered glass or glossy but it looks pretty fantastic so far.
> 
> Has anyone here tried a Monex? I read somewhere they have the deepest black levels of any of the Korean panels, including this glossy(?) Qnix. I might order one and sell it off if I don't like it. I don't care for matte displays anymore. I am spoiled with glossy ;-)
> 
> And yes, Castlevania is gorgeous albeit extremely flawed


The Monex do not overclock, so you would be going back to 60hz if you bought one. Review below and someone who said get the Monex if I wanted glossy.

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14903-monex-m27qsm-review-glossy-2560x1440-pls.html


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The Monex do not overclock, so you would be going back to 60hz if you bought one. Review below and someone who said get the Monex if I wanted glossy.
> 
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14903-monex-m27qsm-review-glossy-2560x1440-pls.html


Yep, I have read that before as well. So, it comes down to:

Option 1 - Keep Glossy Qnix and try to get a good 120hz Profile

or

Option 2 - Go Monex and get deeper blacks at 60hz


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Yep, I have read that before as well. So, it comes down to:
> 
> Option 1 - Keep Glossy Qnix and try to get a good 120hz Profile
> 
> or
> 
> Option 2 - Go Monex and get deeper blacks at 60hz


Wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy a calibrator rather than a new monitor? How would you return a QNIX in good condition, anyways?

Also, the Monex has a very low PWM frequency, so it may give you eye strain and headaches. At the very least, you will notice flickering.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy a calibrator rather than a new monitor? How would you return a QNIX in good condition, anyways?
> 
> Also, the Monex has a very low PWM frequency, so it may give you eye strain and headaches. At the very least, you will notice flickering.


I have a lot of friends and co-workers who buy my tested gear. I just sold my matte Qnix tonight ;-)

I was going to order a Spyder and try it out but I have seen nothing but horrid reviews. I am open for any suggestions but don't want to pay $300+ just for a blasted calibrator --

Thanks for the heads up on the Monex. Hopefully new 120hz options come out.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I have a lot of friends and co-workers who buy my tested gear. I just sold my matte Qnix tonight ;-)
> 
> I was going to order a Spyder and try it out but I have seen nothing but horrid reviews. I am open for any suggestions but don't want to pay $300+ just for a blasted calibrator --
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the Monex. Hopefully new 120hz options come out.


I can give some feedback on both the Spyder 3 Express and Colormunki Display. I just got my Colormunki today, to be honest, I don't see any huge difference between it and the Spyder for results. I think most people can get a monitor looking the way they want without blowing money on a colorimeter, I am not saying they don't work, but for most, its just not a must have.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I can give some feedback on both the Spyder 3 Express and Colormunki Display. I just got my Colormunki today, to be honest, I don't see any huge difference between it and the Spyder for results. I think most people can get a monitor looking the way they want without blowing money on a colorimeter, I am not saying they don't work, but for most, its just not a must have.


Which Spyder is that? I'd prefer to buy from Newegg if possible.

I am messing around get flux software and that makes my desktop look a lot better but I don't know if it carries over to games..


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Which Spyder is that? I'd prefer to buy from Newegg if possible.
> 
> I am messing around get flux software and that makes my desktop look a lot better but I don't know if it carries over to games..


Spyder 3 Express is the older version. I got my Colormunki from ebay, $139.99 brand new,no one else bid on it. Gonna try to upload my ICC profile for you to try. Hope it worked.

ASUSPB278_D65.zip 8k .zip file


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Spyder 3 Express is the older version. I got my Colormunki from ebay, $139.99 brand new,no one else bid on it. Gonna try to upload my ICC profile for you to try. Hope it worked.
> 
> ASUSPB278_D65.zip 8k .zip file


Thanks for that -- That looks extremely green/pale on my display. I have come to the conclusion my monitor is just way different than most ;-)


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Thanks for that -- That looks extremely green/pale on my display. I have come to the conclusion my monitor is just way different than most ;-)


I am assuming its cause the sensors are on a semi gloss or matte screen, so the reading might not work for a glossy. Maybe what you can do, is contact NCX the guy that did the review of the Monex, maybe he can hook you up with a profile. He is a member at the Hard forums, of course that site you read the review also.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Not sure myself but I hate the feeling of asking for help and getting swept under a pile of other unrelated posts so here's a bump for ya


LOL thanks buddy! Da feels man









Again for If someone knows how to fix this pls halp meh

OC'd to 96 and only get 60hz on this website, I see a difference but it's frameskipping on this website and in game i think too

I am using the Radeon HD 7850 wit the latest beta drivers and as you can see also a 1080 HP 2310ei as a second monitor.
My steps that I took to OC:
Patched AMD
Used CRU and created a 96hz and a 120hz profile (with Lawsons settings)
Restartet and used the CCC to set the monitor to 120hz, but I noticed a really light flickering (which is probably coming from the DVI cable) so I chose the 96 hz and there are no graphical issues exept frameskiping maybe? I don't know how to fix it :/


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> LOL thanks buddy! Da feels man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again for If someone knows how to fix this pls halp meh
> 
> OC'd to 96 and only get 60hz on this website, I see a difference but it's frameskipping on this website and in game i think too
> 
> I am using the Radeon HD 7850 wit the latest beta drivers and as you can see also a 1080 HP 2310ei as a second monitor.
> My steps that I took to OC:
> Patched AMD
> Used CRU and created a 96hz and a 120hz profile (with Lawsons settings)
> Restartet and used the CCC to set the monitor to 120hz, but I noticed a really light flickering (which is probably coming from the DVI cable) so I chose the 96 hz and there are no graphical issues exept frameskiping maybe? I don't know how to fix it :/


Try using the latest stable drivers instead of the beta drivers...this worked in the past.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try using the latest stable drivers instead of the beta drivers...this worked in the past.


Tried that too, doesn't work either. When I'm on 96 hz for example I notice the frameskipping?(looks like 25 fps to me) - but it caps at 60 fps on http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping doesn't matter if i set it on 120 or 96hz


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Anyone know where to get Custom Resolution Utility? The site that hosts it has disappeared, all the links I can find of it lead to that site.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try using the latest stable drivers instead of the beta drivers...this worked in the past.


NVM I'm an idiot forgot to uncheck the box in CRU... now it works, gotta get a new DVI cable for 120hz tho, these is little flickering


----------



## karkee

for the Qnix , if I remove the stand can I use a desk monitor arm btw? Or do I need to custom everything? I mean is there already a place for the vesa mount?


----------



## rjm0827

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> for the Qnix , if I remove the stand can I use a desk monitor arm btw? Or do I need to custom everything? I mean is there already a place for the vesa mount?


They have VESA mounts.


----------



## thrgk

how can I use dual crossfire bridges to oc my qnix to 120 wiith four 7970s? does dual bridges just mean at least two? since I can't use two on each card


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Anyone know where to get Custom Resolution Utility? The site that hosts it has disappeared, all the links I can find of it lead to that site.


Works fine for me

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## jourelemode

Hey guys, most of my parts have stated arriving for my pc build and I'm ready to make a purchase.

Has anyone here purchased from Ta-Korea.Global? he's got the cheapest perfect pixel right now and his perfect pixel is guaranteed. how was your experience with him if so?


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> Hey guys, most of my parts have stated arriving for my pc build and I'm ready to make a purchase.
> 
> Has anyone here purchased from Ta-Korea.Global? he's got the cheapest perfect pixel right now and his perfect pixel is guaranteed. how was your experience with him if so?


I did buy from him ordered it tuesday and payed for it straight with paypal he wrote me that since im in italy the delivery will take a few days more to take off im hoping it will be sent monday.

I bought the QNIX perfect pixel and he guaranteed that it will have 0 dead pixels.

Cant tell you anything more on them yet.


----------



## jourelemode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> I did buy from him ordered it tuesday and payed for it straight with paypal he wrote me that since im in italy the delivery will take a few days more to take off im hoping it will be sent monday.
> 
> I bought the QNIX perfect pixel and he guaranteed that it will have 0 dead pixels.
> 
> Cant tell you anything more on them yet.


thanks! Anyone else with experience with this seller?

jourele


----------



## Strickt

OK... Ive got $400-$450 to spend and need a new 2560x1440 monitor... I don't have a calibration tool so it needs to be able to download an ICC profile (I believe that's what their called) what should I get?


----------



## Balsagna

I'm in same boat. I don't have the tools, I'm your typical buyer, hook up and I will install one of the profiles to try and hit 120hz. Looking for pixel perfect obviously. Who should I buy from on Amazon or Ebay?


----------



## DBEAU

I was under the impression that these monitors have great out-of-the-box calibration. I think that some folks in this thread are just a little more obsessed (no offence) about calibration and already have the proper tools so why not.

The only things I noticed in regards to calibration is the contrast seems to be off in that things seem kinda dark. Also, the greens in steam friends list and my crosshair in CS:GO seem way more vibrant and neon than with my previous screen but to be honest I think maybe they're supposed to be that way and the old screen just had less vibrant colors.


----------



## SiNiquity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SiNiquity*
> 
> Hi all, long time follower of this thread first time poster.
> 
> I just got my X-star that I ordered from dream-seller on Ebay. Unfortunately it seems to be defective - there's a sharp purple line right down the middle of the monitor that fades a bit towards the top. It's really unfortunate too because otherwise the monitor is fantastic - very minor backlight bleed on the left side that could likely be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of line:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/Wsjueoh.jpg (white background)
> http://i.imgur.com/cDHAanY.jpg (dark grey background showing the xstar logo)
> 
> Is there anything I can do to fix this, or am I stuck paying shipping back to Korea and cutting my losses?


Just following up on this - contacted dream-seller, and they agreed to either refund or replace the monitor. I chose replacement and shipped it back on Friday. Here's to hoping round 2 goes better


----------



## SiNiquity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I was under the impression that these monitors have great out-of-the-box calibration. I think that some folks in this thread are just a little more obsessed (no offence) about calibration and already have the proper tools so why not.
> 
> The only things I noticed in regards to calibration is the contrast seems to be off in that things seem kinda dark. Also, the greens in steam friends list and my crosshair in CS:GO seem way more vibrant and neon than with my previous screen but to be honest I think maybe they're supposed to be that way and the old screen just had less vibrant colors.


I noticed this with my Xstar monitor too - the colors were all vibrant (not oversaturated). Absolutely beautiful. If my replacement fares well I might just have to get a second!


----------



## rjm0827

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I was under the impression that these monitors have great out-of-the-box calibration. I think that some folks in this thread are just a little more obsessed (no offence) about calibration and already have the proper tools so why not.
> 
> The only things I noticed in regards to calibration is the contrast seems to be off in that things seem kinda dark. Also, the greens in steam friends list and my crosshair in CS:GO seem way more vibrant and neon than with my previous screen but to be honest I think maybe they're supposed to be that way and the old screen just had less vibrant colors.


The colors are great. The real need for ICC profiles comes when you overclock. The higher the overclock the darker (gamma) the screen gets. The color profiles fix this.


----------



## digitalforce

My Qnix panels have been a major mixed bag on calibration out of the box. My old Catleap looked EXACTLY like a high end Apple or Dell panel. Both of my Qnix's though, needed a profile, especially for overclocking. Debating on getting a Colormunki... argh.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I was under the impression that these monitors have great out-of-the-box calibration. I think that some folks in this thread are just a little more obsessed (no offence) about calibration and already have the proper tools so why not.
> 
> The only things I noticed in regards to calibration is the contrast seems to be off in that things seem kinda dark. Also, the greens in steam friends list and my crosshair in CS:GO seem way more vibrant and neon than with my previous screen but to be honest I think maybe they're supposed to be that way and the old screen just had less vibrant colors.


mine had a bit of red too much for my liking. i found an icc profile and turned down the brightness a little. now the colors look really similar to my dell U2412M which i love.


----------



## digitalforce

Anybody seen or heard anything about these bad boys? A-MVA panels...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Green-ITC-LAVA-ECO27QDP-LED-27-Matte-A-MVA-Panel-2560x1440-DP-HDMI-PC-Monitor-/321308287269?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf776125


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I was under the impression that these monitors have great out-of-the-box calibration. I think that some folks in this thread are just a little more obsessed (no offence) about calibration and already have the proper tools so why not.
> 
> The only things I noticed in regards to calibration is the contrast seems to be off in that things seem kinda dark. Also, the greens in steam friends list and my crosshair in CS:GO seem way more vibrant and neon than with my previous screen but to be honest I think maybe they're supposed to be that way and the old screen just had less vibrant colors.


They do indeed have great out of the box colours at 60hz....however as you overclock them the gamma will shift higher which darkens the screen...the higher the hertz the darker the screen!...my 96hz and 120hz Qnix ICC profiles which you can download below will completely correct the higher gamma shift seen at 96hz and 120hz....i calibrated theses at 200 cd/m which is on the BRI+ button 18 clicks up from a black screen for 120hz and 17 clicks up for the 96hz ICC profile...i also recommended using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Yasamoka did you incorporate surport for basICColor display 5 ICC profiles in color substaners v1.03?..and thanks for the v1.03 update also


----------



## Strickt

So can someone give my question some love here. I have $450 to spend. Whats the best bang for my buck? Again I'll want a ICC profile for overclocking and color correction.


----------



## rjm0827

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> So can someone give my question some love here. I have $450 to spend. Whats the best bang for my buck? Again I'll want a ICC profile for overclocking and color correction.


No offense, but everything you need to know has been talked about numerous times in this thread. And seeing as how you're asking in the Qnix/X-Star club thread, you are going to be recommended this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190

The color profiles you need are literally 3 posts above this.

There is a Pixel Perfect option for that same monitor. If you choose to go that route, talk to the seller first. I told him I'd buy perfect pixel only if he could promise me a panel with 0 dead pixels and the smallest amount of BLB possible.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yasamoka did you incorporate surport for basICColor display 5 ICC profiles in color substaners v1.03?..and thanks for the v1.03 update also


Hehe glad you liked the update. Current workaround for profiles that Color Sustainer cannot read is posted in that thread, as a reply to user "JaylumX". Use it until I incorporate that very workaround into Color Sustainer.

Waiting for some feedback on how well 1.03.2 works until I move on a bit and add this feature, though.


----------



## Autoimmunity

Has anyone ever had a degradation in performance with the Qnix over time?

I've had mine for a little over a month and I came home today to find that mine would not run at 120hz anymore. After some tinkering I realized that it wouldn't even run at 100hz, I just get weird colors and lines whenever It runs at that refresh rate. Does anyone know why it would stop working at 120hz so suddenly?


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Autoimmunity*
> 
> Has anyone ever had a degradation in performance with the Qnix over time?
> 
> I've had mine for a little over a month and I came home today to find that mine would not run at 120hz anymore. After some tinkering I realized that it wouldn't even run at 100hz, I just get weird colors and lines whenever It runs at that refresh rate. Does anyone know why it would stop working at 120hz so suddenly?


My glossy Qnix ran for a whole day at 120hz no problem and then started to get the infamous green lines, etc. It's now stable at 110hz max.

Anybody know how to tell the difference between a tempered glass and glossy Qnix?


----------



## DBEAU

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> They do indeed have great out of the box colours at 60hz....however as you overclock them the gamma will shift higher which darkens the screen...the higher the hertz the darker the screen!...my 96hz and 120hz Qnix ICC profiles which you can download below will completely correct the higher gamma shift seen at 96hz and 120hz....i calibrated theses at 200 cd/m which is on the BRI+ button 18 clicks up from a black screen for 120hz and 17 clicks up for the 96hz ICC profile...i also recommended using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


My main issue is that, as far as I know, games don't necessarily use the profile that you set in windows. I'm not overly concerned with the calibration of the desktop. Someone posted a few pages back about a program that does try to make games use the set icc profile but that it doesn't always work. If I'm forced to be in a situation where sometime it works and sometimes it doesn't, I'd rather just forget all this icc profile nonsense, use NVCP to up the gamma a bit and call it a day.


----------



## digitalforce

I use CPKeerper.exe and it locks my profiles in every game I have tested...

Lawson, I just ordered the Spyder4 Elite -- They didn't have the Colormunki on Newegg Premier...


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*


My main issue is that, as far as I know, games don't necessarily use the profile that you set in windows. I'm not overly concerned with the calibration of the desktop. Someone posted a few pages back about a program that does try to make games use the set icc profile but that it doesn't always work. If I'm forced to be in a situation where sometime it works and sometimes it doesn't, I'd rather just forget all this icc profile nonsense, use NVCP to up the gamma a bit and call it a day.[/quote]

I use CPKeeper.exe and it locks my profiles in every game I have tested...

Lawson, I just ordered the Spyder4 Elite -- They didn't have the Colormunki on Newegg Premier...


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I use CPKeerper.exe and it locks my profiles in every game I have tested...
> 
> Lawson, I just ordered the Spyder4 Elite -- They didn't have the Colormunki on Newegg Premier...


I'll give it a go. Thanks


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Which Spyder is that? I'd prefer to buy from Newegg if possible.
> 
> I am messing around get flux software and that makes my desktop look a lot better but I don't know if it carries over to games..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> My main issue is that, as far as I know, games don't necessarily use the profile that you set in windows. I'm not overly concerned with the calibration of the desktop. Someone posted a few pages back about a program that does try to make games use the set icc profile but that it doesn't always work. If I'm forced to be in a situation where sometime it works and sometimes it doesn't, I'd rather just forget all this icc profile nonsense, use NVCP to up the gamma a bit and call it a day.
> 
> I use CPKeeper.exe and it locks my profiles in every game I have tested...
> 
> Lawson, I just ordered the Spyder4 Elite -- They didn't have the Colormunki on Newegg Premier...


Can you post your profile after calibration? We have very similar panels, it seems.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Can you post your profile after calibration? We have very similar panels, it seems.


For sure! I'd be happy to help in anyway possible. Thanks lawson, Riadon and all other for an awesome thread. If I can get rid of this strange yellowish tint, this display will be AWESOME.


----------



## Kold

Lawson, I just reinstalled 7. Got sick of 8.1. I install my 780 Ti driver without GeForce Experience. Just the driver and physx. Do I still use nvidia control panel like said or CRU now? I'm scared to mess up my monitor so I want to make absolutely sure I'm doing it the correct way for my second attempt to 96Hz. Thanks.


----------



## nickj2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> thanks! Anyone else with experience with this seller?
> 
> jourele


I haven't got my monitor yet but this has been my experience so far.

Ordered from him on the 17th, finally posted it on the 21st, arrived in the UK on the 23rd and has been stuck in customs ever since.

I'll give you another update on the actual monitor whenever customs decide to let me have it...


----------



## thanksinadvance

Need to upgrade my video card in order to be able to overclock my qnix. I don't play any games so just looking for the cheapest option. Am correct in assuming this card is my cheapest upgrade option to get to be able to overclock my monitor http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00942TJXY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3C8W72LGF6OY8&coliid=I9975HT4WA6AD


----------



## bluedevil

Pretty much thinking I am gonna pull the trigger on a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II soon, but I am also thinking about replacing my GPU as well. What would one suggest? A GTX 780 or a R9 290?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Pretty much thinking I am gonna pull the trigger on a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II soon, but I am also thinking about replacing my GPU as well. What would one suggest? A GTX 780 or a R9 290?


R9 is faster.


----------



## passinos

Just got my Second dp2710.
While Running 2x X-Stars I lost my Overclock. Cant keep the green lines away.
Same for Desktop and single screen gaming.

Anyone been successful in running 2 with an OC on just one LCD?

I may try to go iGPU for second LCD.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Lawson, I just reinstalled 7. Got sick of 8.1. I install my 780 Ti driver without GeForce Experience. Just the driver and physx. Do I still use nvidia control panel like said or CRU now? I'm scared to mess up my monitor so I want to make absolutely sure I'm doing it the correct way for my second attempt to 96Hz. Thanks.


Hi Kold its up to you which method you want to use to overclock...if you have uninstalled Nvida Gforce experience you can use either method... however i like personally like Nvida Gforce experience and also using the monitor driver method you don't have to worry about any future conflicts if you forget to unchecked "don't not install Nvida Gforce experience" from updated Nvidia drivers that come out....Also i have to say i am using windows 8.1 pro and i have no problems at all....anyhow i hope this helps you


----------



## itcharzherp

Hiiiii ... this is the consideration of buying the monitor I'm looking for









The below part is my thread in this forum, because I didn't get much responses, so I'm posting it here .. for the reason of benefits and advantages of Korean monitors ..

if it's not cool to post my concern here then I would keep the state of my original post ..

if it's OK, then I would delete the original thread and continue the discussion in this thread ..

>>>>>>>>>>









hi tech. pros thumb.gif

I considered posting this thread this afternoon as I thought " why to post a thread about this certain issue .. you learned about different monitors, so why to ask the experts .. "

so .. I thought again and got confused with different monitors 1920*1080 and 2560*1440 ..

First .. I attracted to the BenQ XL2702T and the ASUS VG278HE, because I love to have the fast response smile.gif

Then ... learned how they are TN panels and many say that they have inaccurate colors at high refresh rate and low image quality. Then, I introduced to the PB278Q and U2713HM which are 2560*1440 .. and their specs are very nice .. except some issues I found in different sources like they run at 60Hz so response time is slower ..

And I saw this video: 




and while I saw focusing, I observed at 5:12 when he stabbed the man, that the fast move was little over-shooted that the move is faster than the monitor response ... I just thought that .. maybe I'm not accurate of observing what I think it could be a problem.

And I like the high resolution of 2560*1440 and more nice features like colors and image quality ..

I saw other videos about the ASUS VG278HE and the BenQ XL2702T and I think

My current gaming set is my laptop which has good gaming performance and I want to buy the monitor for my future gaming set king.gif

I like the XL2720T and the new BenQ XL2720Z which I think it's superior to the other TN monitors.

And I like the 2560*1440 .. which I think most of pro gamers like smile.gif

Then, I want your comments, opinions and suggestions .. although I'm attractive to the BenQ monitors


----------



## valid8

*Since this is probably the biggest thread regarding Korean monitors, I'll post my question here before opening a new thread*

I am looking 4 an upgrade to my Samsung 2233rz (16.10 - 1680x1050p @120Hz)...I like 16:10 very much...it's great for gaming and video editing, plus the 120hz is a must have for any serious gamer these days (imho at least), so I believe an upgrade to a *16:10 - 1920x1200 (possibly 24") @120Hz monitor would be the best choice in my case*...

I don't want higher res. like 2560x1440 cause that would mean upgrading my GPU and probably CPU as well which I cannot afford now, plus I'm saving money for an Oculus Rift.

So does the Korean monitor market offer any [email protected] monitors? Thx


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> R9 is faster.


I am just not putting alot into Mantle at this point.


----------



## itcharzherp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valid8*
> 
> *Since this is probably the biggest thread regarding Korean monitors, I'll post my question here before opening a new thread*
> 
> I am looking 4 an upgrade to my Samsung 2233rz (16.10 - 1680x1050p @120Hz)...I like 16:10 very much...it's great for gaming and video editing, plus the 120hz is a must have for any serious gamer these days (imho at least), so I believe an upgrade to a *16:10 - 1920x1200 (possibly 24") @120Hz monitor would be the best choice in my case*...
> 
> I don't want higher res. like 2560x1440 cause that would mean upgrading my GPU and probably CPU as well which I cannot afford now, plus I'm saving money for an Oculus Rift.
> 
> So does the Korean monitor market offer any [email protected] monitors? Thx


I liked your Samsung .. it has nice specs.

Me too I'm looking to upgrade my monitor and connect it to my laptop because I want bigger for broad vision









I thought about Korean monitors .. so they have 120Hz and high res ..

Though, my laptop wouldn't support these features .. and I'm wondering if the laptop would at least run Korean monitor at normal performance >> is that possible ?

Also .. I need to get DVI to HDMI cable >> would this cable work as dual DVI?


----------



## DzillaXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itcharzherp*
> 
> I liked your Samsung .. it has nice specs.
> 
> Me too I'm looking to upgrade my monitor and connect it to my laptop because I want bigger for broad vision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about Korean monitors .. so they have 120Hz and high res ..
> 
> Though, my laptop wouldn't support these features .. and I'm wondering if the laptop would at least run Korean monitor at normal performance >> is that possible ?
> 
> Also .. I need to get DVI to HDMI cable >> would this cable work as dual DVI?


They make two versions

One that has DL-DVI only and can overclock, but you need DL-DVI to use it. NO HDMI Period!

Then there is the Display Port Version that has DVI, DisplayPort, HDMI, and VGA I think. That is limited to 60hz and is only a few bucks more then the DL-DVI only model.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valid8*
> 
> *Since this is probably the biggest thread regarding Korean monitors, I'll post my question here before opening a new thread*
> 
> I am looking 4 an upgrade to my Samsung 2233rz (16.10 - 1680x1050p @120Hz)...I like 16:10 very much...it's great for gaming and video editing, plus the 120hz is a must have for any serious gamer these days (imho at least), so I believe an upgrade to a *16:10 - 1920x1200 (possibly 24") @120Hz monitor would be the best choice in my case*...
> 
> I don't want higher res. like 2560x1440 cause that would mean upgrading my GPU and probably CPU as well which I cannot afford now, plus I'm saving money for an Oculus Rift.
> 
> So does the Korean monitor market offer any [email protected] monitors? Thx


I came from a 1080p 120hz screen to my Current X-Star 1440p running @ 110hz. Lovin it









It has more ghosting but not anything really bad IMO plus biggest gain for me was getting rid of most tearing. Now Tearing is just as rare as it was on my old 120hz monitor with vsync off.

I can't stand tearing and dislike using vsync that is why a monitor getting locked into 60hz was a no no for me. Plus the Response time and Fluidity is pretty nice @ 110hz vs the stock 60. Though my Top right corner has darkened a little more then the rest of the screen but looks great on games and really isn't that noticeable. Only happens when OCed.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I am just not putting alot into Mantle at this point.


What?


----------



## ColdFlo

You overclock a panel and then months later it breaks down. That means the chips inside your panel or some wire or something has degraded. If changing your DVI cable does nothing the next thing I would guess it would be a component on the board and since the chip is what is being overclocked(too high too much heat) its probably the chip breaking down cause you overclocked it!!!!!. Should have added heatsinks to the Explore 110hz OC Chip 450Mhz Pixel ClockEP269 1229G M35562 Chip and the Wise View LRU4122MOL-Q Inverter Chips(I got some copper shims and used thermal paste and thermal expoxy to bond them(with thermal paste) to the back inverter cover panel).

Also at this point you shouldnt be thinking 780ti you should be looking at 8 Series Nvidia.

Windows 8.1 is so much faster in games you just have enable testsigning mode to install custom drivers and run these commands to make it more like windows 7.

powercfg.exe -h off
bcdedit /set useplatformclock true
bcdedit /set disabledynamictick yes
netsh int tcp set heuristics disabled
netsh int tcp set global autotuninglevel=disabled
netsh int tcp set global ecncapability=enabled
netsh int tcp set global rss=enabled
netsh int tcp set global chimney=enabled
netsh int tcp set global dca=enabled
netsh int tcp set global netdma=enabled

First one disable hiberfil.sys the rest tweak the network handing for games.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi Kold its up to you which method you want to use to overclock...if you have uninstalled Nvida Gforce experience you can use either method... however i like personally like Nvida Gforce experience and also using the monitor driver method you don't have to worry about any future conflicts if you forget to unchecked "don't not install Nvida Gforce experience" from updated Nvidia drivers that come out....Also i have to say i am using windows 8.1 pro and i have no problems at all....anyhow i hope this helps you


Hey bro, thanks for always helping everyone out on here. A lot of people would be screwed if you weren't around on this thread lol.

I used the nvidia way and it seemed too easy haha. What can I do to verify it's working at 96Hz? Everything does seem smoother, but it could be a placebo affect.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Hey bro, thanks for always helping everyone out on here. A lot of people would be screwed if you weren't around on this thread lol.
> 
> I used the nvidia way and it seemed too easy haha. What can I do to verify it's working at 96Hz? Everything does seem smoother, but it could be a placebo affect.


See if applications VSync at 96Hz, easiest way.

http://www.testufo.com

See if it syncs at 96Hz. If it gives valid, make sure it's perfectly smooth without any stutter and you're good to go.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I use CPKeerper.exe and it locks my profiles in every game I have tested...
> 
> Lawson, I just ordered the Spyder4 Elite -- They didn't have the Colormunki on Newegg Premier...


You're wasting your money with the Elite. For the same price, go for the i1 Display Pro, Colormunki Display is the same sensor but a bit slower than the i1DP and does not have official support in 3rd-party applications.

i1DP > Spyder4Elite. Just search the thread, there are a million posts about colorimeters.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> My main issue is that, as far as I know, games don't necessarily use the profile that you set in windows. I'm not overly concerned with the calibration of the desktop. Someone posted a few pages back about a program that does try to make games use the set icc profile but that it doesn't always work. If I'm forced to be in a situation where sometime it works and sometimes it doesn't, I'd rather just forget all this icc profile nonsense, use NVCP to up the gamma a bit and call it a day.


He linked you in his post to such an application.

NVCP will not lock your colors for games that reset / override your color profile. AMD do, as they place their color modifications somewhere beyond the LUT that ICC profiles (and I suppose NVCP) load their profiles into (an area which can be reset) but both control panels are sparse on accurate color controls. ICC profiles are essentially curves that correct many points on the curve and not just shift colors here and there (slider).

Check out this thread for the application:
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325

And this thread for Games & Color Profiles, will explain the issue in detail:
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=387074

Lawson, hop in here ^^ I need you in this thread.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Hey bro, thanks for always helping everyone out on here. A lot of people would be screwed if you weren't around on this thread lol.
> 
> I used the nvidia way and it seemed too easy haha. What can I do to verify it's working at 96Hz? Everything does seem smoother, but it could be a placebo affect.


To check its working you can test it at the UFO test page... i shall add a link below and to check your games can see your 96hz custom resolution you can go into any game i use "counterstrike source bench mark" and enable vsync....if you can hit anything over 60fps to a max of 96fps its working fine in games also...

It is also worth adding that if you check windows resolution by right clicking on the desktop and going to and hitting "Screen resolution" then go to advance settings and then the monitor tab and you can see your custom resolution listed in there with the box checked that says "Hide modes this monitor cannot display"....and you see your custom resolution still listed in there then it has to be working...example in my picture below.

http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> You're wasting your money with the Elite. For the same price, go for the i1 Display Pro, Colormunki Display is the same sensor but a bit slower than the i1DP and does not have official support in 3rd-party applications.
> 
> i1DP > Spyder4Elite. Just search the thread, there are a million posts about colorimeters.
> He linked you in his post to such an application.
> 
> NVCP will not lock your colors for games that reset / override your color profile. AMD do, as they place their color modifications somewhere beyond the LUT that ICC profiles (and I suppose NVCP) load their profiles into (an area which can be reset) but both control panels are sparse on accurate color controls. ICC profiles are essentially curves that correct many points on the curve and not just shift colors here and there (slider).
> 
> Check out this thread for the application:
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325
> 
> And this thread for Games & Color Profiles, will explain the issue in detail:
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=387074
> 
> Lawson, hop in here ^^ I need you in this thread.


Yasamoka,

Thanks for the advice. Looks like that is out of stock on Newegg as well. I guess I'll bite the bullet and order either the i1 Display Pro or Colormunki. I appreciate the help!


----------



## itcharzherp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DzillaXx*
> 
> They make two versions
> 
> One that has DL-DVI only and can overclock, but you need DL-DVI to use it. NO HDMI Period!
> 
> Then there is the Display Port Version that has DVI, DisplayPort, HDMI, and VGA I think. That is limited to 60hz and is only a few bucks more then the DL-DVI only model.


I saw a cable on internet which convert from DVI to HDMI .. is it helpful for my laptop which doesn't have DVI port ?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itcharzherp*
> 
> I saw a cable on internet which convert from DVI to HDMI .. is it helpful for my laptop which doesn't have DVI port ?


No, because HDMI to DVI adapters are single-link. This monitor requires dual-link DVI.


----------



## tehsprayer

Just bought one from dream-seller!

Really scared about getting a bad quality screen or RMA.


----------



## jourelemode

I just bought a pixel perfect version from TA.KOREA w/squaretrade warranty. Hope it comes this week!


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Just got my Second dp2710.
> While Running 2x X-Stars I lost my Overclock. Cant keep the green lines away.
> Same for Desktop and single screen gaming.
> 
> Anyone been successful in running 2 with an OC on just one LCD?
> 
> I may try to go iGPU for second LCD.


bump...

Anyone running 2x Qnix - Xstars?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Is the Perfect Pixel thing a scam, or have people that have been paying for it actually gotten no dead pixels and or almost no BLB (those that asked/paid for no BLB).

I'm bothered by someone opening up the box, but if it's to guarantee no dead pixels and almost no BLB I'd gladly pay for it.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Is the Perfect Pixel thing a scam, or have people that have been paying for it actually gotten no dead pixels and or almost no BLB (those that asked/paid for no BLB).
> 
> I'm bothered by someone opening up the box, but if it's to guarantee no dead pixels and almost no BLB I'd gladly pay for it.


There are different levels of perfect pixel, the ones that list a guarantee of zero, are closer to $400.


----------



## kevinsbane

Perfect pixel is stupid.


----------



## digitalforce

On perfect pixel, I've never bought one. Here are my results:

* Yamakasi Catleap = No dead pixels. No BLB.

* Matte Qnix = No dead pixels. Bad BLB.

* Glossy Qnix = No dead pixels. No BLB.

* Yamakasi DS2710 = No dead pixels. Minimal BLB.


----------



## rjm0827

Went to run 3DMark and came back to my monitor freaking out. Reboot and had this. Had to restart 4-5 times, cycle power including pulling plug, and making sure DVI cable was secure. It eventually went away but damn, I'm nervous now.



It went across the entire monitor, I was just up close to show it better.


----------



## doco

give it an hour or two for the image retention to wear off. if it's not off the next day, then you should really freak out by then.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjm0827*
> 
> Went to run 3DMark and came back to my monitor freaking out. Reboot and had this. Had to restart 4-5 times, cycle power including pulling plug, and making sure DVI cable was secure. It eventually went away but damn, I'm nervous now.
> 
> 
> 
> It went across the entire monitor, I was just up close to show it better.


Were you running at 120hz?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Perfect pixel is stupid.


Until you end up with 1 or 2 and it annoys the hell out of you. I don't think $30 is a stupid deal for peace of mind. However, some people could care less about 2-3 dead/stuck pixels. I, on the other hand, would not be able to enjoy my monitor knowing it had a few dead ones.


----------



## rjm0827

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Were you running at 120hz?


At 110hz, it's not stable at 120. And I swapped it to 85,60 and 59. And when I did I got horrible constant screen flickering.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> bump...
> 
> Anyone running 2x Qnix - Xstars?


Intel iGPU cannot overclock and does not have dual-link DVI to begin with. Careful.

How have you connected the two displays?


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Intel iGPU cannot overclock and does not have dual-link DVI to begin with. Careful.
> 
> How have you connected the two displays?


You are correct! Already had tried the iGPU with no luck.

Monitors connected on Dual DVI of my 7970 CF. But my 2nd 7970 is a reference with only 1 DVI-DL.
I swapped the order of the cards to get my other 7970 in primary slot since it has 2 DL-DVI.

I get the horizontal green lines on one of the screens in desktop with CRU removed and stock 60hz.
When I drop the resolution to 1080 on 1 screen, flicker goes away.

Problem may be in gpu


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> You are correct! Already had tried the iGPU with no luck.
> 
> Monitors connected on Dual DVI of my 7970 CF. But my 2nd 7970 is a reference with only 1 DVI-DL.
> I swapped the order of the cards to get my other 7970 in primary slot since it has 2 DL-DVI.
> 
> I get the horizontal green lines on one of the screens in desktop with CRU removed and stock 60hz.
> When I drop the resolution to 1080 on 1 screen, flicker goes away.
> 
> Problem may be in gpu


I don't know of any non-reference 7970 with 2 dual-link DVI. It might be 1 dual-link and 1 single-link. What 7970 do you have?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Were you running at 120hz?
> Until you end up with 1 or 2 and it annoys the hell out of you. I don't think $30 is a stupid deal for peace of mind. However, some people could care less about 2-3 dead/stuck pixels. I, on the other hand, would not be able to enjoy my monitor knowing it had a few dead ones.


Except Perfext pixel is _still_ stupid, since it isn't peace of mind, it isn't going to guarantee 0 pixel defects, it doesn't cover backlight bleed _at all_, and will still occasionally result in pixel defects. Congrats! Since you have a covered pixel defect (and many aren't) you can send it back to Korea without paying shipping; given that you can deal with a month of wrangling with the seller, waiting for shipping the monitor back, and then waiting for a new monitor - only to get the _same chance_ that you'll get a pixel defect again. Nor does it cover low contrast. Nor tinting. Nor uniformity.

Oh, and that's if your seller is nice. The bad ones just offer to refund you the perfect pixel markup - a scam if I ever saw one.

Perfect pixel is stupid. It's a marketing phrase coined by them to meet the expectations of buyers who ought not to have those expectations to begin with, 2 years ago when people asked sellers to "open up the box and check for dead pixels". If you want peace of mind - get a monitor with a real return policy from a Dell or HP or Apple. There, you have a guarantee. Here, you take your chances (and your chances are good) that you'll get a decent monitor. If you don't, you don't; if you do, you do. If you don't want to take the chance, know that Perfect Pixel _does not make that chance go away._ Perfect Pixel (I capitalize deliberately) does not mean every pixel will be perfect. Far from it.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Except Perfext pixel is _still_ stupid, since it isn't peace of mind, it isn't going to guarantee 0 pixel defects, it doesn't cover backlight bleed _at all_, and will still occasionally result in pixel defects. Congrats! Since you have a covered pixel defect (and many aren't) you can send it back to Korea without paying shipping; given that you can deal with a month of wrangling with the seller, waiting for shipping the monitor back, and then waiting for a new monitor - only to get the _same chance_ that you'll get a pixel defect again. Nor does it cover low contrast. Nor tinting. Nor uniformity.
> 
> Oh, and that's if your seller is nice. The bad ones just offer to refund you the perfect pixel markup - a scam if I ever saw one.
> 
> Perfect pixel is stupid. It's a marketing phrase coined by them to meet the expectations of buyers who ought not to have those expectations to begin with, 2 years ago when people asked sellers to "open up the box and check for dead pixels". If you want peace of mind - get a monitor with a real return policy from a Dell or HP or Apple. There, you have a guarantee. Here, you take your chances (and your chances are good) that you'll get a decent monitor. If you don't, you don't; if you do, you do. If you don't want to take the chance, know that Perfect Pixel _does not make that chance go away._ Perfect Pixel (I capitalize deliberately) does not mean every pixel will be perfect. Far from it.


Perfect pixel is stupid!..Utter nonsense there are seller that guarantee pixel perfect *"NOT ONE DEAD PIXEL"* i bought mine pixel perfect and it arrived pixel perfect...also as my seller sold it to me pixel perfect if it arrived at my house NOT pixel perfect he would of in the UK Alone of broken the trade description Act...and if Ebay want to Trade in the UK they are obligated to comply with UK law meaning i would have Ebay on my side and the seller would have no choice but to pay for the shipping back to Korea or i would be refunded by pay pal if he did not want to pay shipping back to korea and i would get to keep the monitor for free...Not a bad deal!

As for BLB its expected its why these screens are A- Grade i expected BLB and indeed i had it BLB and i fixed it 100%..however I bought my monitor pixel perfect because i did not want one dead pixel...if he had sent me a screen with one dead pixel...how many times do you think he would pay for the return shipping of the monitor back to korea before he sent me a pixel perfect screen?...i believe he would NOT make the same mistake twice..

Some do NOT want any dead pixels and are prepared to pay extra for that!...i wanted pixel perfect because i cannot fix a dead pixel.. and could not live with any dead pixels..however i can fix BLB and i have got a monitor that is now as good as an A+ screen because i paid extra for pixel perfect and i can fix and repair any BLB...Also i am willing to return as many monitors as needs be if i bought a pixel perfect monitor and did not receive a pixel perfect monitor!....however to most sellers this would be a very expensive game for them to have to play!... so believe me your next monitor would indeed be pixel perfect if they had to pay shipping back to korea which they would have no choice but to do!...Also all the members on this forum that i know of have indeed received a pixel perfect monitor when they ordered a pixel perfect monitor!


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I don't know of any non-reference 7970 with 2 dual-link DVI. It might be 1 dual-link and 1 single-link. What 7970 do you have?


You are correct! I didn't know. I was just going off how the connector looked. I am indeed running my 2nd screen on single link which would explain the issue.

Guess its new GPU time.


----------



## digitalforce

If you look, there are now some Korean monitors on eBay that are claiming "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" which is a 100% guarantee of NO dead or stuck pixels but it costs you extra $$$.


----------



## SeanEboy

Guys, I'm debating buying a fairly large quantity of these things... Looking upwards of (50-60), and making them available for better pricing... Thoughts on that?


----------



## NV43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Guys, I'm debating buying a fairly large quantity of these things... Looking upwards of (50-60), and making them available for better pricing... Thoughts on that?


If you do, I'd be interested


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Perfect pixel is stupid!..Utter nonsense there are seller that guarantee pixel perfect i bought mine pixel perfect and it arrived pixel perfect...also as my seller sold it to me pixel perfect if it arrived at my house NOT pixel perfect he would of in the UK Alone of broken the trade description Act...also he would he of mis-sold me goods as far as Ebay is concerned meaning i would have Ebay on my side and the seller would have to pay for the shipping back to Korea or i would be refunded by pay pal if he did not want to pay shipping back to korea and i would get to keep the monitor for free...Not a bad deal!


In other words, you got a guarantee that will pay your return shipping - what I said. But hey, you bought something off Ebay. You may be in the right, legally, but it's your job to ensure that the seller complies. In other words, it'll be weeks of communication with the seller to fix your issues. And if the seller eventually doesn't want to deal with you anymore? What's the UK government going to do about a foreign national that doesn't reside in the UK? Absolutely nothing.
Quote:


> As for BLB its expected its why these screens are A- Grade i expected BLB and indeed i had it BLB and i fixed it 100%..however I bought my monitor pixel perfect because i did not want one dead pixel...if he had sent me a screen with one dead pixel...how many times do you think he would pay for shipping the monitor back to korea before he sent me a pixel perfect screen?...i believe he would NOT make the same mistake twice..


I believe he would. Your sellers do not check the monitor. They cannot do so. The monitor is checked at the factory - that is, if it's checked at all. Sellers are NOT going to open your package, hook it up, check it, and then repackage it to send to you.
Quote:


> Some do NOT want any dead pixels and are prepared to pay extra for that!...i wanted pixel perfect because i cannot fix a dead pixel.. and could not live with any dead pixels..however i can fix BLB and i have got a monitor that is now as good as an A+ screen because i paid extra for pixel perfect and i can fix and repair any BLB...Also i am willing to return as many monitors as needs be if i bought a pixel perfect monitor and did not receive a pixel perfect monitor!....however to most sellers this would be a very expensive game for them to have to play! and believe me your next monitor would indeed be pixel perfect if they had to pay shipping back to korea which they would have no choice but to do!...Also all the members on this forum that i know of have indeed received a pixel perfect monitor when they ordered a pixel perfect monitor!


And I know of "perfect pixel" monitors that were received by members of this very forum, heck, _this very thread_ that did not meet the spec.

And, I know of dozens, _hundreds_ of monitors that people bought, that were not perfect pixel listings, that met the perfect pixel spec.

I never said that perfect pixel monitors will have pixel defects. I only say that perfect pixel is stupid, as I have not seen a statistically significant difference between perfect pixel and non-perfect pixel, and I cannot see a sensible position where offering perfect pixel actually benefits the consumer.

Examples:
Perfect Pixel develops a defective pixel:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1430173/so-i-think-my-korean-1440p-ah-ips-developed-a-bad-pixel-already-any-advice/0_50
Perfect Pixel has 5+ defective pixels:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1445376/perfect-pixel-5-dead-pixels/0_50
Perfect pixel ($20 premium) has 3-5 defective pixels:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1460160/pixel-perfect-is-truth/0_50#post_21609831
"Perfect Pixel" comes with stuck red subpixel:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12750_50#post_21678674
Another one:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/13050_50#post_21713320
And another...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/4150_50#post_20371683


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> You are correct! I didn't know. I was just going off how the connector looked. I am indeed running my 2nd screen on single link which would explain the issue.
> 
> Guess its new GPU time.


Come to think of it, I should have got a Multi Input version and went Display Port on my 2nd screen since I wasn't planning on OCing it anyways. Just Ocing the main display for gaming.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> You are correct! I didn't know. I was just going off how the connector looked. I am indeed running my 2nd screen on single link which would explain the issue.
> 
> Guess its new GPU time.


Disable CrossFire, connect 1 monitor to each GPU. Does it work this way?


----------



## yasamoka

My Pixel Perfect has 1 stuck blue pixel.

The policy was: no defective (dead / stuck) pixels (0 - zero)

Forget about Pixel Perfect. Obviously so many examples here showing Pixel Perfect to be anything but.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Disable CrossFire, connect 1 monitor to each GPU. Does it work this way?


Yes, it seems to work fine. Nice idea.
Except BF4 will be at 45 FPS without CF.

Maybe I can get a cheap DP to DL-DVI converter until I get new GPUs.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> In other words, you got a guarantee that will pay your return shipping - what I said. But hey, you bought something off Ebay. You may be in the right, legally, but it's your job to ensure that the seller complies. In other words, it'll be weeks of communication with the seller to fix your issues. And if the seller eventually doesn't want to deal with you anymore? What's the UK government going to do about a foreign national that doesn't reside in the UK? Absolutely nothing.


The seller would not be able to get away with weeks of communication they have so many days to sort it out with the Ebays Case system...the Uk goverment would not need to do anything as the the Act has been past and "Ebay uk" are obligated to uphold the Law..i have been in this very situation before as regards mis-sold items from Ebay and i have received a full refund and some times gotten to keep the item..*Also you are deluded if you think the seller could get away with not wanting to deal with me anymore!*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I believe he would. Your sellers do not check the monitor. They cannot do so. The monitor is checked at the factory - that is, if it's checked at all. Sellers are NOT going to open your package, hook it up, check it, and then repackage it to send to you.


Utter nonsense Again! ..this is pure speculation on your part you are telling me that sellers do not open up monitor ETC ...*you do not know this*...it is what you would like to believe..however make no mistake i know this... if they sent me a monitor that was NOT pixel perfect they world have to pay for return shipping or paypal would refund me and they would be in Debt to pay pal...these are facts not speculation which seems is the only thing you can supply to support your Argument.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> And I know of "perfect pixel" monitors that were received by members of this very forum, heck, _this very thread_ that did not meet the spec.
> 
> And, I know of dozens, _hundreds_ of monitors that people bought, that were not perfect pixel listings, that met the perfect pixel spec.
> 
> I never said that perfect pixel monitors will have pixel defects. I only say that perfect pixel is stupid, as I have not seen a statistically significant difference between perfect pixel and non-perfect pixel, and I cannot see a sensible position where offering perfect pixel actually benefits the consumer.


As i said i know of not one member of this forum who has ordered a monitor that from a seller that clams *"not one dead pixel"* and have received a monitor with any dead pixels!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> My Pixel Perfect has 1 stuck blue pixel.
> 
> The policy was: no defective (dead / stuck) pixels (0 - zero)
> 
> Forget about Pixel Perfect. Obviously so many examples here showing Pixel Perfect to be anything but.


I would of sent it back but its your choice...


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I would of sent it back but its your choice...


Why would I send back an otherwise almost-perfect display for a single blue stuck pixel that I generally can't see except on a black background and when I look for it?

Point is that it didn't arrive as Perfect Pixel even though I paid $60 for that privilege. I contacted the seller but didn't follow through, hope I do that soon.

On the other hand, it's good that sellers are cooperative and helpful. But it's pretty clear they aren't testing them by eye. Yet, they still accept returns if you didn't get what you asked for, so that's good.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Why would I send back an otherwise almost-perfect display for a single blue stuck pixel that I generally can't see except on a black background and when I look for it?
> 
> Point is that it didn't arrive as Perfect Pixel even though I paid $60 for that privilege. I contacted the seller but didn't follow through, hope I do that soon.
> 
> On the other hand, it's good that sellers are cooperative and helpful. But it's pretty clear they aren't testing them by eye. Yet, they still accept returns if you didn't get what you asked for, so that's good.


I can not answer why you should send it back!.....however what i can say is that i would of exercised my right to send it back...its the very reason i paid extra for NO dead pixels


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Yes, it seems to work fine. Nice idea.
> Except BF4 will be at 45 FPS without CF.
> 
> Maybe I can get a cheap DP to DL-DVI converter until I get new GPUs.


I suppose that when gaming, you'd be fine with the second monitor off. So you'd turn CrossFire on again.

The DP to DL-DVI adapter might be a good idea but it'll have to be active.

Nvidia allows monitors to be connected across multiple cards, but I have no idea about the dynamics of it. What monitors get turned off, what monitors stay on, do they have to be part of triple surround, etc... I'm sure an Nvidia owner could chime in and tell us.

With Nvidia & AMD passing frames over the PCI Express bus for multi-monitor, multi-GPU scenarios, it's now simpler to connect monitors across displays and I hope AMD get around to allowing that with CrossFire. That, and CrossFire support in Windowed mode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I can not answer why you should send it back!.....however what i can say is the i would of exercised my right to send it back...its the very reason i paid extra for NO dead pixels


I agree with you, however it was quite difficult to get a friend with a PayPal account to pay for the monitor, and I paid $70 here to get the monitor. To send it back would cost me too much extra time, effort, and money that it wasn't worth it for the blue pixel. Wouldn't upset me as I got an otherwise amazing panel and I wouldn't want to get rid of a single stuck blue pixel and get a worse sample, and possibly more defective pixels. There's no way to get a Perfect Pixel monitor for sure, so that's the best I could do.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The seller would not be able to get away with weeks of communication they have so many days to sort it out with the Ebays Case system...the Uk goverment would not need to do anything as the the Act has been past and Ebay are obligated to uphold the Law..i have been in this very situation before as regards mis-sold items from Ebay and i have received a full refund and some times gotten to keep the item..*Also you are deluded if you think the seller could get away with not wanting to deal with me anymore!*


Granted. You deal with it, I'm not going to spend hours of my time dealing with it. I've got better things to do than argue with ebay sellers, posting pictures of problems, etc.
Quote:


> Utter nonsense Again! ..this is pure speculation on your part you are telling me that sellers do not open up monitor ETC ...*you do not know this*...it is what you would like to believe..however make no mistake i know this... if they sent me a monitor that was NOT pixel perfect they world have to pay for return shipping or paypal would refund me and they would be in Debt to pay pal...these are facts not speculation which seems is the only thing you can supply to support your Argument.


Of course it's speculation. But walk yourself through the process. These sellers do not manufacture the monitors. They are only middlemen. If they decide to open up a monitor, they open up the possibility of return - why? _because they sold you an opened and potentially tampered with monitor_. That's the most idiotic thing ever. If they would get in trouble for selling something that doesn't match the description, can you imagine the trouble they'd get in for selling something that could have been potentially tampered with? And if a box has been tampered with, buyers have recourse to return _any_ monitor, for _any_ reason, and the seller couldn't prove otherwise. No, that's stupid and silly. They don't open boxes to check monitors. That's done at the factory. All they can do is send you another "perfect pixel" monitor from the factory, that still has the same chances of receiving a bad pixel.
Quote:


> As i said i know of not one member of this forum who has ordered a monitor that from a seller that clams *"not one dead pixel"* and have received a monitor with any dead pixels!


And I do.

Examples:
Perfect Pixel develops a defective pixel shortly after plugging it in:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1430173/so-i-think-my-korean-1440p-ah-ips-developed-a-bad-pixel-already-any-advice/0_50
Perfect Pixel has 5+ defective pixels:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1445376/perfect-pixel-5-dead-pixels/0_50
Perfect pixel ($20 premium) has 3-5 defective pixels:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1460160/pixel-perfect-is-truth/0_50#post_21609831
"Perfect Pixel" comes with stuck red subpixel:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12750_50#post_21678674
Another one:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/13050_50#post_21713320
And another...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/4150_50#post_20371683


----------



## Jirachi

Hmm, I think I have no luck with my Qnix QX2710. I tried to overclock it to 96 Hz and 120 Hz, and it works, but then the colours on the upper-right corner of the screen are less bright. Like there is less backlight over there. I don't have this issue when I'm on 60 Hz. Is this normal or can I fix it?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> They don't open boxes to check monitors. That's done at the factory. All they can do is send you another "perfect pixel" monitor from the factory, that still has the same chances of receiving a bad pixel.


As i believe i have already stated Factually why i believe in pixel perfect and would still would buy Pixel perfect monitor can i ask you...at what point do you believe Excellentcastle shoots down to the factory when he sell you a pixel perfect monitor and puts on his little red sticker that says "pixel perfect" on the monitors box?...or do you believe he has an inside man at the factory that randomly does this for him?


----------



## Jetlitheone

Hey Lawson, have any 110hz profiles or should I use the 120hz one?

Maybe a little darker too since 200cd/m is too bright at night


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Hey Lawson, have any 110hz profiles or should I use the 120hz one?
> 
> Maybe a little darker too since 200cd/m is too bright at night


I am sorry mate i don't have a 110hz ICC as i only use 120hz and therefore only create 120hz profiles but you are more than welcome to use my 120hz...however i am also sure i have seen some 110hz ICC profiles kicking around in this thread....do a search.

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> As i believe i have already stated Factually why i believe in pixel perfect and would still would buy Pixel perfect monitor can i ask you...at what point do you believe Excellentcastle shoots down to the factory when he sell you a pixel perfect monitor and puts on his little red sticker that says "pixel perfect" on the monitors box?...or do you believe he has an inside man at the factory that randomly does this for him?


Believe all you want. There are hundreds of examples of non-"perfect pixel" monitors being "perfect pixel" and I've given at least a half-dozen examples of "perfect pixel" monitors being nothing of the sort. That is, I believe, evidence enough that "perfect pixel" is stupid. Why pay extra for perfect pixel when non-perfect pixel monitors are cheaper, have a very similar rate of getting no pixel defects, and have a better track record?

There's another argument that actual posits that perfect pixel monitors are actually _worse_ panels - but that is predicated on the monitors using A- (panels with a known defect). I'm not using that, because _that_ would be rank speculation.

Evidence exists in abundance that non-perfect pixel monitors are free from pixel defects the majority of the time. Pixel defects are not common.
Enough evidence exists that perfect pixel monitors can also be subject to pixel defects, and that it is not as rare as might be expected. Pixel defects are not impossible.
Anecdotal experiences are many where getting a "perfect pixel" monitor that is defective replaced is annoying, long and arduous (and occasionally, outright scammy).
Conclusion - perfect pixel is stupid.


----------



## Kold

Mine came with problems and the seller helped me replace it right away. No arguing, waiting, ect.


----------



## Balsagna

Lawson, do you happen to know of a provider I should buy with the Perfect Pixel? I'm trying to obtain one that overclocks to the 120hz and has as many minimal defects as possible.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I suppose that when gaming, you'd be fine with the second monitor off. So you'd turn CrossFire on again.
> 
> The DP to DL-DVI adapter might be a good idea but it'll have to be active.
> 
> Nvidia allows monitors to be connected across multiple cards, but I have no idea about the dynamics of it. What monitors get turned off, what monitors stay on, do they have to be part of triple surround, etc... I'm sure an Nvidia owner could chime in and tell us.
> 
> With Nvidia & AMD passing frames over the PCI Express bus for multi-monitor, multi-GPU scenarios, it's now simpler to connect monitors across displays and I hope AMD get around to allowing that with CrossFire. That, and CrossFire support in Windowed mode.
> 
> Active DP converters are $80+
> 
> had 2x R9 290's in my newegg cart with 5% off for $380 each new at launch. Can't believe I didnt pull the trigger.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Believe all you want. There are hundreds of examples of non-"perfect pixel" monitors being "perfect pixel" and I've given at least a half-dozen examples of "perfect pixel" monitors being nothing of the sort. That is, I believe, evidence enough that "perfect pixel" is stupid. Why pay extra for perfect pixel when non-perfect pixel monitors are cheaper, have a very similar rate of getting no pixel defects, and have a better track record?
> 
> There's another argument that actual posits that perfect pixel monitors are actually _worse_ panels - but that is predicated on the monitors using A- (panels with a known defect). I'm not using that, because _that_ would be rank speculation.
> 
> Evidence exists in abundance that non-perfect pixel monitors are free from pixel defects the majority of the time. Pixel defects are not common.
> Enough evidence exists that perfect pixel monitors can also be subject to pixel defects, and that it is not as rare as might be expected. Pixel defects are not impossible.
> Anecdotal experiences are many where getting a "perfect pixel" monitor that is defective replaced is annoying, long and arduous (and occasionally, outright scammy).
> Conclusion - perfect pixel is stupid.


You conclusion that perfect pixel is stupid....not mine and i respect your right to hold that belief...however my past experience at buying pixel perfect has proved otherwise.. and i also believe that for one "Excellentcastle" does indeed check for dead pixels at which point he places a red stickers on the box saying "0 dead pixels" ...i also believe this because i do not believe Excellentcastle wants to keep paying for return shipment and then having to pay yet again for a replacement shipping...this would be economical suicide to him and many other sellers as the system in place does not allow them to "get away with this" ..And it is expressly why the UK government created the "Trade description act" and any company which wants to trade in the UK such as Ebay UK is Obliged abide by the Law.

It is this very system that is in place that allows to believe in pixel perfect and therefore allows me to send back countless amounts of monitors to any seller that would like to send me a NON a perfect pixel monitor if i paid for a pixel perfect monitor...and i would not lose one penny all i would experience is inconvenience to myself but!.. i would be 100% confident that my next monitor from that seller would be perfect ...unless of coarse that seller would like to commit economical suicide..which would be his choice...however i do not believe he would chose that path.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Lawson, do you happen to know of a provider I should buy with the Perfect Pixel? I'm trying to obtain one that overclocks to the 120hz and has as many minimal defects as possible.


I believe that if you buy an Ultimate perfect pixel monitor from Excellentcastle that you will indeed receive a pixel perfect monitor from him...however there is no guarantee from any seller as to the severity of any BLB...they simply can not guarantee this ....also it is the same case with overclocking....its a lottery....however the last few buyers on this thread that have paid for Ultimate perfect pixel have indeed received from Excellentcastle pixel perfect monitors and have been able to overclock to 120hz.


----------



## Watagump

Lets not forget, perfect pixel means different things with different sellers, so its just a kind of wording. Once again, you can get a guaranteed zero one, but you pay around $400. The others listing perfect pixel even say how many they consider perfect, you have to read their terms and decide for yourself.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You conclusion that perfect pixel is stupid....not mine and i respect your right to hold that belief...however my past experience at buying pixel perfect has proved otherwise.. and i also believe that for one "Excellentcastle" does indeed check for dead pixels at which point he places a red stickers on the box saying "0 dead pixels" ...i also believe this because i do not believe Excellentcastle wants to keep paying for return shipment and then having to pay yet again for a replacement shipping...this would be economical suicide to him and many other sellers as the system in place does not allow them to "get away with this" ..And it is expressly why the UK government created the "Trade description act" and any company which wants to trade in the UK such as Ebay UK is Obliged abide by the Law.


You have ONE experience with perfect pixel. Let me tell you about my two experiences with two non-perfect pixel monitors - both without bright pixel defects. Does my experience outweigh yours? What does the fact that I got 2 "perfect pixel" monitors (without buying perfect pixel) tell you? Nothing, you might say - but the same could be said of your experience. Just because you had a good experience means little. You got lucky, and weren't burned like some other perfect pixel buyers.
Quote:


> It is this very system that is in place that allows to believe in pixel perfect and therefore allows me to send back countless amounts of monitors to any seller that would like to send me a NON a perfect pixel monitor if i paid for a pixel perfect monitor...and i would not lose one penny all i would experience is inconvenience to myself but!.. i would be 100% confident that my next monitor from that seller would be perfect ...unless of coarse that seller would like to commit economical suicide..which would be his choice...however i do not believe he would chose that path.


If the rate of "perfect pixel" monitors is high enough, he definitely can indeed get away with it. And from the statistics of the monitors of people on this very forum have gathered, the rate of pixel defects is probably low enough that a seller can do precisely what you describe, and not commit economic suicide. If the rate of defective pixels was above a certain level, say, 25% (I'm pulling this number out of thin air), then yes, you have a point. But generally speaking, the rate of defective pixels (as covered by "perfect pixel") has been low - one early poll with over 200 data points had it running at around 12-13% pixel issues - 1 in 8 panels had a defective pixel. If you could charge $20 more per panel, you'd cover your perfect pixel return shipping costs. And still make a profit. Notwithstanding those sellers who _do_ scam perfect pixel, by offering a refund of the perfect pixel premium if a pixel defect is found (utterly stupid, dumbest, scammiest version of pixel perfect ever; avoid these sellers like the plague; red-cap did this for a while)

Edit:

Just went through the club - there are 379 members in the Qnix club. Of the club, 43 members received a monitor with stuck pixels that would be covered by perfect pixel. A total of 69 monitors with some kind of pixel defect. Thus, we have an overall rate of about 11.3% that would be covered by perfect pixel, if they were all perfect pixel monitors. Of the perfect pixel monitors, we have 18 registered as perfect pixel; 2 of them had a stuck pixel, and one of them had a dead pixel.


----------



## Jirachi

Hmm, I think I have no luck with my Qnix QX2710. I tried to overclock it to 96 Hz and 120 Hz, and it works, but then the colours on the upper-right corner of the screen are less bright. Like there is less backlight over there. I don't have this issue when I'm on 60 Hz. Is this normal or can I fix it?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Hmm, I think I have no luck with my Qnix QX2710. I tried to overclock it to 96 Hz and 120 Hz, and it works, but then the colours on the upper-right corner of the screen are less bright. Like there is less backlight over there. I don't have this issue when I'm on 60 Hz. Is this normal or can I fix it?


It's normal - when the Qnix/X-star are overclocked, they lose brightness and their uniformity will go out the window. You can mitigate (but not eliminate) this by fiddling with your pixel timing settings, to reduce your pixel clock as much as possible.


----------



## Jirachi

Thanks!

Where can I play with the pixel timing settings?

Another question, am I setting the refresh rate at the correct way? I RMB on desktop, then click ''screen resolutionn'', then advanced settings, then monitor tab and the I select 120 Hz. Is this the right way or should I do this in Catalyst Control Center?


----------



## kevinsbane

Try the first post - there's a section on overclocking. Unfortunately, I don't have any timings to give you to try, but there are a few in this thread. You should use the Custom Resolution Utilities in the OP. http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/0_50# It will make your overclock "stick" in games and full screen modes.


----------



## Watagump

I have to be honest, the way the ebay sellers describe the monitors, I was under the impression they were testing the monitors themselves.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You have ONE experience with perfect pixel. Let me tell you about my two experiences with two non-perfect pixel monitors - both without bright pixel defects. Does my experience outweigh yours? What does the fact that I got 2 "perfect pixel" monitors (without buying perfect pixel) tell you? Nothing, you might say - but the same could be said of your experience. Just because you had a good experience means little. You got lucky, and weren't burned like some other perfect pixel buyers.
> If the rate of "perfect pixel" monitors is high enough, he definitely can indeed get away with it. And from the statistics of the monitors of people on this very forum have gathered, the rate of pixel defects is probably low enough that a seller can do precisely what you describe, and not commit economic suicide. If the rate of defective pixels was above a certain level, say, 25% (I'm pulling this number out of thin air), then yes, you have a point. But generally speaking, the rate of defective pixels (as covered by "perfect pixel") has been low - one early poll with over 200 data points had it running at around 12-13% pixel issues - 1 in 8 panels had a defective pixel. If you could charge $20 more per panel, you'd cover your perfect pixel return shipping costs. And still make a profit. Notwithstanding those sellers who _do_ scam perfect pixel, by offering a refund of the perfect pixel premium if a pixel defect is found (utterly stupid, dumbest, scammiest version of pixel perfect ever; avoid these sellers like the plague; red-cap did this for a while)
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Just went through the club - there are 379 members in the Qnix club. Of the club, 43 members received a monitor with stuck pixels that would be covered by perfect pixel. A total of 69 monitors with some kind of pixel defect. Thus, we have an overall rate of about 11.3% that would be covered by perfect pixel, if they were all perfect pixel monitors. Of the perfect pixel monitors, we have 19 registered as perfect pixel; 2 of them had a stuck pixel, and one of them had a dead pixel.


Mate i have said my bit and i have pointed out why i would buy and continue to advised other members to buy pixel perfect monitors... also as i have said the last few buyers from this thread that have bought Ultimate pixel perfect monitors from Excellentcastle have indeed received pixel perfect monitors...there is a system that is in place that guarantees that i will get if not the first time round a pixel perfect monitor...i have explained how the system works and i have tested this system there really is no more to be said...if people want to pay for a perfect pixel monitor and they receive a non perfect pixel monitor and they want to keep it as opposed to returning it then that is there choice...

But it is a fact that if they want a perfect pixel monitor the will indeed get one...this has NOTHING to do with any seller or any argument that you can try and come back with!.. they will receive one because it is the Law....and NO seller is above the law and can alter or change Ebays legal obligations to there customers ..now this conversation is over...you can search all night long for examples of people who have received non pixel perfect monitors..i am not interested because the fact remains if you buy a pixel perfect monitor you will eventually receive one because its the Law...and i believe if bought from Excellentcastle it most likely will be the first monitor you receive...if you have no faith in your law or are willing to except anything less than a perfect pixel monitor if you have bought one than that is your choice ...because the FACT remains that the law demands that you will receive a perfect pixel monitor!


----------



## Watagump

Worse comes to worse, buyers always have Paypal on their side. The sellers, usually lose.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Where can I play with the pixel timing settings?
> 
> Another question, am I setting the refresh rate at the correct way? I RMB on desktop, then click ''screen resolutionn'', then advanced settings, then monitor tab and the I select 120 Hz. Is this the right way or should I do this in Catalyst Control Center?


Try my 120hz timings from the picture below and set them for your 120hz profile the exact same as mine..these timings work for most people and they will lower your pixel clock nearer to the pixel clock limit of 450mhz at 120hz which will give you a stronger signal i hope this helps









Use them in CRU


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have to be honest, the way the ebay sellers describe the monitors, I was under the impression they were testing the monitors themselves.


They do, don't they? But their product descriptions are also filled with inaccuracies and outright misinformation as well - such as "video card compatibility" lists (which are out of date and proven to be incorrect), as well as "DVI-D only", which is also complete BS.

Lawson - except this guy who bought a perfect pixel monitor and _didn't_ eventually receive a perfect pixel monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *club list*
> 2 dead/stuck pixels on pixel perfect version (received 10% refund)


And this one.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1228062/achieva-shimian-monitor-club/3150_50#post_19973257
Quote:


> Yep i got two stuck pixels with my "pixel perfect". One is at the VERY top so that one doesnt matter but there is another that is in the top right quadrant and its quite annoying. Luckily RedCap refunded me the difference between a pixel perfect and a regular. All i had to do was send a picture.


And this dude: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/7900_50#post_20957794
Quote:


> Yes same with mine. Hope there is a fix for it, but If it was a dead sub-pixel then I'll just settle for a refund (Difference between the normal and the Perfect Pixel price).


And this guy:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/7550_50#post_20901222
Quote:


> When they offer a partial refund for defects because they don't want to replace, what is the amount offered generally??? Cheers guys.
> 
> green-sum offered me $15. I countered with $25 and they accepted. I did this via the eBay resolution process to avoid any shenanigans .


*shrug* The law may be on your side, but there's a lot of work involved enforcing it. Your time may be worth putting in a lot of time and effort convincing your ebay seller to "do the right thing". I'd rather not worry about the entire process and either accept the 11% chance to get a bad monitor, or go all the way and buy a monitor with a reputable _warranty_ and return policy like Dell, or HP or Apple, who source and can control their own supply chains.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> They do, don't they? But their product descriptions are also filled with inaccuracies and outright misinformation as well - such as "video card compatibility" lists (which are out of date and proven to be incorrect), as well as "DVI-D only", which is also complete BS.
> 
> Lawson - except this guy who bought a perfect pixel monitor and _didn't_ eventually receive a perfect pixel monitor.
> And this one.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1228062/achieva-shimian-monitor-club/3150_50#post_19973257
> And this dude: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/7900_50#post_20957794
> And this guy:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/7550_50#post_20901222
> *shrug* The law may be on your side, but there's a lot of work involved enforcing it. Your time may be worth putting in a lot of time and effort convincing your ebay seller to "do the right thing". I'd rather not worry about the entire process and either accept the 11% chance to get a bad monitor, or go all the way and buy a monitor with a reputable _warranty_ and return policy like Dell, or HP or Apple, who source and can control their own supply chains.


At the time I still had my HD 7950, I sent them a question about making sure my card was fine. Of course, I knew it was, but like you said, their card list is way off. Better to ask the dumb question just to be 100% sure.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> At the time I still had my HD 7950, I sent them a question about making sure my card was fine. Of course, I knew it was, but like you said, their card list is way off. Better to ask the dumb question just to be 100% sure.


Yeah... it just causes frustration sometimes though, when people come asking why their HD 5770 won't support the monitor, when it really actually does (I ran my Catleap overclocked on it for the better part of a few months). I must have answered that question a dozen times. At least with the compatibility list so old, we don't get many of those questions anymore (if you're buying one of these monitors, you usually have an up-to-date video card...) but the stupid DVI-D question keeps coming up.


----------



## CrackaG

Easy question for you guys. I just received my X-Star at work, I'll be hooking it up when I get home (fingers crossed for minimal defects!).

Excited to finally check out what all the hype is about. I have seen that there is a power brick that comes with the monitor (or USA adapter or w/e it is). Is the power brick necessary or can I plug directly into the monitor? When I plug in to my outlet are there any other settings I need to worry about (voltage wise etc.)?

Appreciate the help.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrackaG*
> 
> Easy question for you guys. I just received my X-Star at work, I'll be hooking it up when I get home (fingers crossed for minimal defects!).
> 
> Excited to finally check out what all the hype is about. I have seen that there is a power brick that comes with the monitor (or USA adapter or w/e it is). Is the power brick necessary or can I plug directly into the monitor? When I plug in to my outlet are there any other settings I need to worry about (voltage wise etc.)?
> 
> Appreciate the help.


You need the brick, just plug it in and voila.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> They do, don't they? But their product descriptions are also filled with inaccuracies and outright misinformation as well - such as "video card compatibility" lists (which are out of date and proven to be incorrect), as well as "DVI-D only", which is also complete BS.
> 
> Lawson - except this guy who bought a perfect pixel monitor and _didn't_ eventually receive a perfect pixel monitor.
> And this one.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1228062/achieva-shimian-monitor-club/3150_50#post_19973257
> And this dude: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/7900_50#post_20957794
> And this guy:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/7550_50#post_20901222
> *shrug* The law may be on your side, but there's a lot of work involved enforcing it. Your time may be worth putting in a lot of time and effort convincing your ebay seller to "do the right thing". I'd rather not worry about the entire process and either accept the 11% chance to get a bad monitor, or go all the way and buy a monitor with a reputable _warranty_ and return policy like Dell, or HP or Apple, who source and can control their own supply chains.


BTW all of these are from people that settled for less than a full refund and did not demand a reshipped perfect pixel monitor or and came to an arrangement with there seller!....completely pointless posting them!...as i said the law is the law if you want to come to an agreement with your seller its up to you however the Law is on your side if you want to refuse to keep that monitor and demand a full refund or a working replacement then you have that right...also it is not fully clear that any of these buyers bought ultimate pixel perfet..most pixel perfect still allows for i think up to 2-3 dead pixels...you can search all night but you can not change the law!...and posting people that have ordered pixel perfect and then have settled for a financial agreement with there seller is completely pointless!


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I believe that if you buy an Ultimate perfect pixel monitor from Excellentcastle that you will indeed receive a pixel perfect monitor from him...however there is no guarantee from any seller as to the severity of any BLB...they simply can not guarantee this ....also it is the same case with overclocking....its a lottery....however the last few buyers on this thread that have paid for Ultimate perfect pixel have indeed received from Excellentcastle pixel perfect monitors and have been able to overclock to 120hz.


is this someone from Ebay or Amazon or another site? I'm really behind on all the sellers, could you PM or link me by chance?

Thanks!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> is this someone from Ebay or Amazon or another site? I'm really behind on all the sellers, could you PM or link me by chance?
> 
> Thanks!


I believe you will receive a pixel perfect monitor if you order any of theses below

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> BTW all of these are from people that settled for less than a full refund and did not demand a reshipped perfect pixel monitor or and came to an arrangement with there seller!....completely pointless posting them!...as i said the law is the law if you want to come to an agreement with your seller its up to you however the Law is on your side if you want to refuse to keep that monitor and demand a full refund or a working replacement then you have that right...also it is not fully clear that any of these buyers bought ultimate pixel perfet..most pixel perfect still allows for i think up to 2-3 dead pixels...you can search all night but you can not change the law!...and posting people that have ordered pixel perfect and then have settled for a financial agreement with there seller is completely pointless!


You mentioned that no perfect pixel buyers have gotten a screen with pixel problems - I provided 6 examples of that. You mentioned that perfect pixel buyers would then have to get their perfect pixel eventually - I posted 4 more examples where this was not the case. With your new assertion, I can find an example where someone bought a perfect pixel monitor and was totally screwed by the buyer. I remember it.

I respect that you like your perfect pixel monitor, but please don't post information which is not well-founded; we have enough bad information coming from ebay sellers without having fellow posters adding to it. Pixel perfect gives you leverage if you get bitten by the 10% chance you get a monitor with a stuck pixel. Given the statistics we have in this very thread, I'm not optimistic that these new "ultimate perfect pixel" are any different from before. If only 1/8 monitors have a pixel defect, they can afford to sell "normal" monitors as "ultimate perfect pixel" and still come out ahead, even accounting for returns and replacements.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You mentioned that no perfect pixel buyers have gotten a screen with pixel problems - I provided 6 examples of that. You mentioned that perfect pixel buyers would then have to get their perfect pixel eventually - I posted 4 more examples where this was not the case. With your new assertion, I can find an example where someone bought a perfect pixel monitor and was totally screwed by the buyer. I remember it.
> 
> I respect that you like your perfect pixel monitor, but please don't post information which is not well-founded; we have enough bad information coming from ebay sellers without having fellow posters adding to it. Pixel perfect gives you leverage if you get bitten by the 10% chance you get a monitor with a stuck pixel. Given the statistics we have in this very thread, I'm not optimistic that these new "ultimate perfect pixel" are any different from before. If only 1/8 monitors have a pixel defect, they can afford to sell "normal" monitors as "ultimate perfect pixel" and still come out ahead, even accounting for returns and replacements.


1: You mentioned that no perfect pixel buyers have gotten a screen with pixel problems =

Not true i have said all along that recently all the members that have bought ultimate pixel perfect monitors Excellentcastle have received pixel perfect monitors...i know this because i monitor these things...also i pointed out the sellers legal obligation

2:I posted 4 more examples where this was not the case. With your new assertion, I can find an example where someone bought a perfect pixel monitor and was totally screwed by the buyer.=

You have shown me people that did not exercise there right in demanding a pixel perfect monitor...you have shown me people that have come to agreement with there sellers....also i could not determine weather these people had bought Ultimate pixel perfect or...as i said you can carry on posting these links all night long they are completely pointless...you can only find people that have not demanded a full refund or exercised there right under law to a full refund or a monitor that matched the sellers description...the Law is the law its up the individual weather they want to exercise that right...you can carry on all night posting me links from people that have not received the monitor that they asked for or come to a financial arrangement with the seller because they were happy to settle for that instead of exercising there right under Law which is to demand a full refund or force the seller to ship a perfect pixel monitor if they so wish....all of your links are pointless and all them do not change the Law!

Edit:
3: By the way you say to me please don't post miss information we have enough bad information coming from ebay sellers without having fellow posters adding to it...Given the statistics we have in this very thread!

I have NOT seen you in this thread at all for all of the time that i have been posting in this thread and helping other members in this thread which has been for some time now!..Also i do not recall you regularly being in this thread or regularly helping any of the members in thread recently..in fact you just seemed to of popped along into this thread maybe after sometime of being away from this thread with a pointless and unwinable meaningless Argument...Oh And BTW show me your statistics from this very thread!... they certainly would not be recent!..and stop please going on about your 10% chance of getting a bad monitor rubbish that you have made up in your head..the same as you made up in your head that NONE of the seller check the monitors ETC...which i proved was pure speculation on your part!..

You are the one spreading misinformation with pure speculation...and you also do not seem educated enough to understand my point or your rights under law even though i have pointed them out to you on several occasions now... so will you please stop keeping on with your pathetic argument and deluding yourself or even trying to scare fellow members into thinking that they have NO rights under Law and that Ebay does NOT have an obligation to protect there rights.

Also posting dumb links from people that have bought unconfirmed Ultimate pixel perfect monitors with defects and then accepting a financial agreement from that seller and not exercising there right under Law to to have that monitor returned!.. and then demand to be sent a monitor that was described to them at the point of sale.. does NOT prove your point or change the Law and it in fact make you look rather Stupid....and please don't go telling me or trying to scare other members with such pathetic nonsense as you did in an earlier post by saying and i Quote *"what if if the seller eventually doesn't want to deal with you anymore"* as the seller is NOT allowed to do that and yet again you are trying to scare members or you simply have NO clue how Ebay works or there legal obligation towards you in which case you are putting yourself at a complete disadvantage every time you buy from Ebay...maybe that's why you seem so confused?...anyhow please STOP scaremongering members into believing that they have NO RIGHTS!..or they will receive a non pixel perfect monitor when i have already proven that all you have to back up your Argument is pure speculation on your part!...which means nothing and ignores the law.

But what is an Absolute fact that you can never EVER change is that if someone like myself ordered a pixel perfect monitor from any seller on Ebay..i would indeed get one..if not at first then the second time around...this is because i will have the Law on his side...and this is a fact!..it is also a fact that if i was sent a non pixel perfect monitor after paying for one i could exercise my right to 1: Force the seller to take back the monitor and give me a full refund or 2: Ask the seller to take back the defected monitor and supply me with one as described to me at the point of sale and if he refused to take back the monitor i could Force him to give me a FULL refund and keep the monitor for free!...these are facts under the law!...these facts are NOT open to debate because they are LAW and NO Amount of posts from you will ever change this FACT or indeed the LAW or remove Ebays obligation to me or any other member on this forum under the LAW!


----------



## Relance

Could someone help me? I've received my X-Star today and have tried overclocking it. It goes to 120hz with no problem, but when I do the frameskip test it never does a verified sync, always "incomplete sync" at 116-119hz. I am using chrome and have tried to make the window very small and it makes no difference. In the UFO test, my frames show 118-120. I have also tried lawson's timings, as well as just using default timings + changing frequency to 120hz, both result in the same.

How can I fix this issue?


----------



## Jirachi

Thanks! After doing that, I should also calibrate things, right? I didn't use ypur timings yet as im not on my pc, but colours looked a bit different as well. So, i don't know if the lower pixel clock will fix this as well, but if not, what can I calibrate and how?

And by the way, does 120 Hz decrease lifespan of my monitor? I'm planning to use it for at least 3 years.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Relance*
> 
> Could someone help me? I've received my X-Star today and have tried overclocking it. It goes to 120hz with no problem, but when I do the frameskip test it never does a verified sync, always "incomplete sync" at 116-119hz. I am using chrome and have tried to make the window very small and it makes no difference. In the UFO test, my frames show 118-120. I have also tried lawson's timings, as well as just using default timings + changing frequency to 120hz, both result in the same.
> 
> How can I fix this issue?


Try disabling desktop composition when doing so. Make a shortcut onto the desktop, then right click and go to the compatibility tab. In the settings area, check off disable desktop composition. This may help.

Lawson, you'll find that the law is little comfort to those facing reality. Bang all you want on the law. Reality is a harsh mistress. Of those who bought perfect pixel, few have needed it in the first place. Of those that did need it, I see more people who have settled for less than standing up for what the wanted. Lawson, what exactly do you think you are getting from buying perfect pixel, compared to not buying perfect pixel?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Thanks! After doing that, I should also calibrate things, right? I didn't use ypur timings yet as im not on my pc, but colours looked a bit different as well. So, i don't know if the lower pixel clock will fix this as well, but if not, what can I calibrate and how?
> 
> And by the way, does 120 Hz decrease lifespan of my monitor? I'm planning to use it for at least 3 years.


All i can tell you is that i run my monitor at 120hz 24/7 and i have not had any problems with it at all and i personally do not think i will have....as for calibrations you are more than welcome to use mine which are posted below.

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Try disabling desktop composition when doing so. Make a shortcut onto the desktop, then right click and go to the compatibility tab. In the settings area, check off disable desktop composition. This may help.
> 
> Lawson, you'll find that the law is little comfort to those facing reality. Bang all you want on the law. Reality is a harsh mistress. Of those who bought perfect pixel, few have needed it in the first place. Of those that did need it, I see more people who have settled for less than standing up for what the wanted. Lawson, what exactly do you think you are getting from buying perfect pixel, compared to not buying perfect pixel?


Do you really want me to explane that all over again?....are you still not getting the point..did you not take in the reason i bought pixel perfect?...are you seriously going to keep on with your unwinable argument?


----------



## Relance

Both tests verify now, but they get "Performance Warning" every 6 seconds or so. Does that mean it's not stable?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Try disabling desktop composition when doing so. Make a shortcut onto the desktop, then right click and go to the compatibility tab. In the settings area, check off disable desktop composition. This may help.
> 
> Lawson, you'll find that the law is little comfort to those facing reality. Bang all you want on the law. Reality is a harsh mistress. Of those who bought perfect pixel, few have needed it in the first place. Of those that did need it, I see more people who have settled for less than standing up for what the wanted. Lawson, what exactly do you think you are getting from buying perfect pixel, compared to not buying perfect pixel?


Maybe you did not see my Edit to you on the last page..and also what kind of a question is this? *Lawson, what exactly do you think you are getting from buying perfect pixel, compared to not buying perfect pixel?* are you being serous? is it not self explanatory? lol..but let me tell you one last time!...it is because i can fix BLB but i can not fix a dead pixel..and this is why i bought a perfect pixel monitor and why i now have an A+ grade panel!.. but i have already told you this but you seem to have forgotten it!..and as for me banging on about the Law i am sorry to inform you but *the Law is reality* however you would sooner try to scare members into believing that it does not exist or they will have no rights under the law or that every seller wants to screw them over or you want them to believe that a seller could get away with saying and i quote you *"what if if the seller eventually doesn't want to deal with you anymore"* LMAO as if they could!...to sum up i have said all i feel i need to say to you in this post and in my Edit in my last post on the previous page and indeed ever again..also from your last post i do not believe you are capable of retaining information and therefore i am not going to repeat myself any further as i am arguing with someone whos whole point is based on speculation..stupid quotes..meaningless links and deludes themselves that the Law does not exist!...or it does but it cannot be enforced!...LOL ..yeah right keep telling yourself that!

My perfect pixel Panel with BLB



My perfect pixel A+ Grade Panel with NO dead pixels or BLB..maybe this is why i bought perfect pixel!


----------



## dante`afk

Could someone help please?

As of today whenever I try to switch window mode/fullscreen mode in games the screen just turns black and I have to ctrl alt del and hit enter, then wait for it to get back into windows.

The same thing happens if I try to go back to 60hz from 120hz

I rebooted and installed newest Nvidia drivers.

No idea what else???


----------



## Spartan F8

Wow, more PP posts.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Wow, more PP posts.


Yes but its getting rather boring now to be honest


----------



## SeanEboy

I ordered a perfect pixel from ExcellentCastle, and I got just that.. minimal BLB, but I will be looking into how to fix that whence I'm done building... First time up and running today....Jussayin'... Thanks for steering me in the right direction Lawson!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> I ordered a perfect pixel from ExcellentCastle, and I got just that.. minimal BLB, but I will be looking into how to fix that whence I'm done building... First time up and running today....Jussayin'... Thanks for steering me in the right direction Lawson!


No problem at all Sean and i am glad you are happy with your monitor mate and welcome to the club


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No problem at all Sean and i am glad you are happy with your monitor mate and welcome to the club


Thanks bud! I still have yet to hook up the other one - which oddly enough is not a Qnix, but an X-Star (which I know is the same thing), in a Qnix box.. But anyway. ;c)

I'll be sure to check in when I'm ready to start the OC'ing process.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I believe you will receive a pixel perfect monitor if you order any of theses below
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831


Thanks for the links - Do you happen to know of any other 120hz Korean clockers? I'm trying to decide on which monitor to buy and while I don't dislike the QNIX I do not really like the aesthetics of it which for me, is someone of a big thing


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Wow, more PP posts.


Heh. My apologies, you know how I feel about the subject.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes but its getting rather boring now to be honest


PM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Thanks for the links - Do you happen to know of any other 120hz Korean clockers? I'm trying to decide on which monitor to buy and while I don't dislike the QNIX I do not really like the aesthetics of it which for me, is someone of a big thing


There's the Extreme Catleap, which is unfortunately the only other (very expensive) complete option at the moment.

There used to be the Overlord monitors, but they're sold out now. They still do sell the overclocking PCB set, so you can make your own overclockable monitor.

There are no Catleap "2B" in general circulation nowadays (you can pry mine from my cold, dead hands), but if you had gotten in right at the beginning, you could have caught it.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Heh. My apologies, you know how I feel about the subject.
> PM.
> There's the Extreme Catleap, which is unfortunately the only other (very expensive) complete option at the moment.
> 
> There used to be the Overlord monitors, but they're sold out now. They still do sell the overclocking PCB set, so you can make your own overclockable monitor.
> 
> There are no Catleap "2B" in general circulation nowadays (you can pry mine from my cold, dead hands), but if you had gotten in right at the beginning, you could have caught it.


Thanks, that's what I seem to be noticing as well - I just took a visit at their website and was like mannnnnn. And I knew I shoulda jumped for those monitors when they were much cheaper, perfect pixeld and overclocked, but I decided to wait to see how long they 'lasted' and they seem to be doing okay.

Thanks, now it's time to make a decision on what to buy. the 120hz does intrigue me. I play mostly League of Legends and have Sli 680's. Do you think I would benefit with the monitor at 120hz vs's the 60hz.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Thanks, that's what I seem to be noticing as well - I just took a visit at their website and was like mannnnnn. And I knew I shoulda jumped for those monitors when they were much cheaper, perfect pixeld and overclocked, but I decided to wait to see how long they 'lasted' and they seem to be doing okay.
> 
> Thanks, now it's time to make a decision on what to buy. the 120hz does intrigue me. I play mostly League of Legends and have Sli 680's. Do you think I would benefit with the monitor at 120hz vs's the 60hz.


Only if you play competitively. There is a benefit in that you get about 8ms less total input lag, but that's pretty small compared to the 200-300 ms of input lag most people have when online gaming. Running 120hz on SLI also requires hacked drivers, which means you can't watch DVD or Blu-Ray movies (if anyone does that nowadays...)


----------



## Kold

Is there a huge difference between 96Hz and 120Hz? Mine appears to run very well at 96Hz with no dimming on the screen and passing all those little tests from that one website. I am scared to try 120 and damage my computer. Could anyone tell me what to look for, if I do try 120, that would point to it not being stable (if it isn't flat out obviously not stable at first.) Thanks.

EDIT: I just wanted to say going from 60Hz all my life to 96Hz is just amazing how much the difference is. Even when I was watching True Detective tonight, the motions were much more fluid and smooth. This is awesome and that's why I'm wondering about 120Hz. It does seem there are a lot of people posting here with problems after trying 120Hz so I'm worried to attempt it lol.


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> All i can tell you is that i run my monitor at 120hz 24/7 and i have not had any problems with it at all and i personally do not think i will have....as for calibrations you are more than welcome to use mine which are posted below.
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


Thanks! How to open/run a ICC profile? And which ICC profile of the two should I run? And I see 200 cd/m in the name of those profiles. Does that mean I have to be on 200 cd/m brightness? If so, how can I make sure I am on 200 cd/m? Btw, I have the same timings as you now, but the right side of the screen still remains darker than the left







Is it safe to use your timings for 96 Hz?


----------



## jy0un9

Hi
I ordered a qnix ultimate pixel perfect from exelantcastle on Thursday they still have not shipped it I keep asking when they will and they just offer me a refund.
I'm happy to wait but they can't seem to tell me when they will ship it, they just say thanks for waiting.
Hopefully they will send it this week


----------



## itcharzherp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jy0un9*
> 
> Hi
> I ordered a qnix ultimate pixel perfect from exelantcastle on Thursday they still have not shipped it I keep asking when they will and they just offer me a refund.
> I'm happy to wait but they can't seem to tell me when they will ship it, they just say thanks for waiting.
> Hopefully they will send it this week


So .. what have you done ??

I want 1440p for 27" .. I work on 20" Dell and I'm sure 27" need more resolution ..

I want Qnix with its high res, and the issue that my laptop doesn't support DVI.

My question is, would it be good to use the DVI - HDMI cable?


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> I must have been really bad in a former life or something! Nearly a week to leave ExcellentCastle's warehouse and DHL tracking says an estimated delivery of 13th March????????? W.......T........F?
> 
> Is this a flipping joke or what?
> 
> It's clearly not being flown but waiting for some container ship.
> 
> So you can chalk this up as a negative review for ExcellentCastle Expedited International Shipping


OK I've not chimed in for a while. I don't know where DHL got the initial delivery estimate on the tracking info from, but shortly after venting (above) on this thread I Googled Incheon and found it was actually an airport and not a harbour (so that put my mind at rest that it was actually being flown !)

Tracking went fine through Leipzig and to UK in 2 days. It was due to be delivered last Friday but apparently the courier encountered a serious road traffic accident (he wasn't involved) and was unable to get to me (I actually got an email saying "Customer refused order" so I phoned 'em quick ! ) .



So my Qnix was delivered yesterday ! Apart from the initial delay of just under a week from ExcellentCastle (who may have been waiting for Pixel Perfect stock) I can report absolutely zero pixel faults and negligible BLB (I've not done the full lights off test yet). He wrote "Faulty Electronics for spares or repair" and valued at $200 just as I requested, so Kudos to ExcellentCastle for that









I did have to pay import duty but it was only £30 GBP - so hardly bank-breaking









Clocking at 120Hz gave green stripe artifacts but the monitor clocks to 110Hz fine.

The stand really wasn't as bad as I was expecting. Despite this I've got two of the following dual VESA stands on order

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-Double-Monitor-Bracket-Swivel/dp/B00AV70AEI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1393931928&sr=8-3&keywords=vesa+monitor+stand.

One thing I wanted to do was run my work Dell laptop into it for software development but it doesn't seem to drive the monitor via DVI (even via the dock) The Qnix sits there going through its White-Red-Green-Blue test cycle. Apparently I can use the Display Port connector to do it so I've picked up a Display port to Dual link DVI adaptor on eBay for £24.50 inc shipping

Is there a way to sharpen up the text on the 27" monitor? I guess I'm too used to looking at the Retina display on my Chinese generic tablet (9.7" Sumvision Cyclone II 297) and the full HD AMOLED display on my Galaxy Note 3 which left me a little disappointed in the sharpness of the text in WIndows (compared to what I've seen on say an Apple 27" iMac). Is this something the glossy screens are better at (mine's a matte finish)?


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> Could someone help please?
> 
> As of today whenever I try to switch window mode/fullscreen mode in games the screen just turns black and I have to ctrl alt del and hit enter, then wait for it to get back into windows.
> 
> The same thing happens if I try to go back to 60hz from 120hz
> 
> I rebooted and installed newest Nvidia drivers.
> 
> No idea what else???


I had same issue but on 7970's playing BF4.


turn off iGPU
Disable Teamviewer


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jy0un9*
> 
> Hi
> I ordered a qnix ultimate pixel perfect from exelantcastle on Thursday they still have not shipped it I keep asking when they will and they just offer me a refund.
> I'm happy to wait but they can't seem to tell me when they will ship it, they just say thanks for waiting.
> Hopefully they will send it this week


I've just received my Qnix from ExcellentCastle. There was a delay of 6 days from point of order to it actually leaving his warehouse. Once DHL had it, it was in UK in 2 days. There was a slight hitch with the courier on Friday so I had to wait till yesterday till I got it. So Ordered 21st Feb - delivered 3rd March. If I hadn't read so many stories of 2-3 days from order to arrival I would still have been impressed with just over a week from S.Korea.

Not sure what's going on but it would appear ExcellentCastle is having some issues.

If they don't send it soon, it might be worth taking the refund and trying another eBay seller. There's plenty of testimonials on this thread of various sellers and look at the spreadsheet on the first page.


----------



## CrackaG

Hooked up and used my new X-Star from dream-seller all night last night.

I appear to have 2 grey pixels, one bottom left, one top right, I only noticed them because I was looking. Minimal backlight bleed (appeared to fix with pressure) in the top left. There appears to be a "dark spot" (I'll try to photo later to get some opinions) on the right-center portion of the monitor. The spot only shows up on darker colors, essentially not visible on light or white colors. I cannot notice it when playing a game or watching a movie. Overall very satisfied with my $280 purchase.

I tried OCing to 120hz and there appeared to be a some red line screen tearing at times. I could not find the "reduce DVI frequency" *(any tips on where this is?)* in the amd options, and I have yet to enable the "LCD reduced" option within CRU. I still have some tinkering to do but I settled on a 96hz OC for now which seems to be stable, 120hz seems doable.


----------



## jy0un9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> I've just received my Qnix from ExcellentCastle. There was a delay of 6 days from point of order to it actually leaving his warehouse. Once DHL had it, it was in UK in 2 days. There was a slight hitch with the courier on Friday so I had to wait till yesterday till I got it. So Ordered 21st Feb - delivered 3rd March. If I hadn't read so many stories of 2-3 days from order to arrival I would still have been impressed with just over a week from S.Korea.
> 
> Not sure what's going on but it would appear ExcellentCastle is having some issues.
> 
> If they don't send it soon, it might be worth taking the refund and trying another eBay seller. There's plenty of testimonials on this thread of various sellers and look at the spreadsheet on the first page.


Thanks for the info.
I don't mind waiting a bit longer I'm in the process of moving at the moment anyway. They just haven't told me how long or why there is a delay, I'm waiting on a reply. Because of the time difference I can only get one reply a day.
They are being very polite and offered me a refund straight away though.

Update...
Just checked eBay its now Been dispatched.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itcharzherp*
> 
> So .. what have you done ??
> 
> I want 1440p for 27" .. I work on 20" Dell and I'm sure 27" need more resolution ..
> 
> I want Qnix with its high res, and the issue that my laptop doesn't support DVI.
> 
> My question is, would it be good to use the DVI - HDMI cable?


You can't use an HDMI-DVI cable to make it work. Is HDMI your only output from your laptop? If so, you may be out of luck getting one of these to work at full res.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> One thing I wanted to do was run my work Dell laptop into it for software development but it doesn't seem to drive the monitor via DVI (even via the dock) The Qnix sits there going through its White-Red-Green-Blue test cycle. Apparently I can use the Display Port connector to do it so I've picked up a Display port to Dual link DVI adaptor on eBay for £24.50 inc shipping


Hope you go the right kind; a DisplayPort to Dual Link DVI adapter (the one with an extra USB port for power). There are a lot of DisplayPort-> DVI adapters that don't work with these monitors. 24.50GBP doesn't quite sound expensive enough to be one of those, but hey, you might have found one cheaper.
Quote:


> Is there a way to sharpen up the text on the 27" monitor? I guess I'm too used to looking at the Retina display on my Chinese generic tablet (9.7" Sumvision Cyclone II 297) and the full HD AMOLED display on my Galaxy Note 3 which left me a little disappointed in the sharpness of the text in WIndows (compared to what I've seen on say an Apple 27" iMac). Is this something the glossy screens are better at (mine's a matte finish)?


Do you have cleartext turned on? It helps some by using subpixel rendering to increase sharpness.


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> All i can tell you is that i run my monitor at 120hz 24/7 and i have not had any problems with it at all and i personally do not think i will have....as for calibrations you are more than welcome to use mine which are posted below.
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


Thanks! How to open/run a ICC profile? And which ICC profile of the two should I run? And I see 200 cd/m in the name of those profiles. Does that mean I have to be on 200 cd/m brightness? If so, how can I make sure I am on 200 cd/m? Btw, I have the same timings as you now, but the right side of the screen still remains darker than the left frown.gif Is it safe to use your timings for 96 Hz?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Thanks! How to open/run a ICC profile? And which ICC profile of the two should I run? And I see 200 cd/m in the name of those profiles. Does that mean I have to be on 200 cd/m brightness? If so, how can I make sure I am on 200 cd/m? Btw, I have the same timings as you now, but the right side of the screen still remains darker than the left frown.gif Is it safe to use your timings for 96 Hz?


Hi Jirachi you can apply my ICC profiles using Color Sustainer which i will put a link below too...as for the brightness at 200 cd/m this would be roughly at 120hz 18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI+ button and 17 clicks up for the 96hz profile..as for the screen uniformity some have it worse than others..mine is only noticeable on a sold green screen and then i have to look very hard to see it..optimized timings can help you can use my 120hz timings in the picture below as they seem to work for most...

Edit No do not use my 120hz timings at 96hz...most people can get away with not changing any timings at 96hz

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Thanks! How to open/run a ICC profile? And which ICC profile of the two should I run? And I see 200 cd/m in the name of those profiles. Does that mean I have to be on 200 cd/m brightness? If so, how can I make sure I am on 200 cd/m? Btw, I have the same timings as you now, but the right side of the screen still remains darker than the left frown.gif Is it safe to use your timings for 96 Hz?


Thanks for all your help. Did this, but I will have to start Colour Substainer everytime I boot my computer?

It is very bad... right?: http://www29.speedyshare.com/dtCm4/download/IMG-20140304-150444.jpg


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Thanks for all your help. Did this, but I will have to start Colour Substainer everytime I boot my computer?
> 
> It is very bad... right?: http://www29.speedyshare.com/dtCm4/download/IMG-20140304-150444.jpg


Its it is best to start Colour Substainer with windows this way you set it and forget it...i use start with windows and minimize to tray ..and i am sorry i could not see your picture?

Edit i have just seen your picture now...i believe i have seen a lot worse than that...Also you might find you only see this on a green screen and in normal use you do not see it / notice it...however if you can not live with then running at 96hz it should be even less noticeable...however it does not look that bad to me and i have seen alot worse...i hope this helps


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Its it is best to start Colour Substainer with windows this way you set it and forget it...i use start with windows and minimize to tray ..and i am sorry i could not see your picture?


Ok, thanks.

Oh, and now?: http://www29.speedyshare.com/dtCm4/IMG-20140304-150444.jpg

You have to click on 'Download: ....' on top of the page.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Ok, thanks.
> 
> Oh, and now?: http://www29.speedyshare.com/dtCm4/IMG-20140304-150444.jpg
> 
> You have to click on 'Download: ....' on top of the page.


Yes i did see it in the end...read my Edit in my last post to you


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Its it is best to start Colour Substainer with windows this way you set it and forget it...i use start with windows and minimize to tray ..and i am sorry i could not see your picture?
> 
> Edit i have just seen your picture now...i believe i have seen a lot worse than that...Also you might find you only see this on a green screen and in normal use you do not see it / notice it...however if you can not live with then running at 96hz it should be even less noticeable...however it does not look that bad to me and i have seen alot worse...i hope this helps










Really? Look at the red bar of this picture. That bar is supposed to be 1 solid color. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3wb0kjcyzl30ngi/IMG_20140304_152638.jpg

Futhermore, is it possible and okay to use 120 Hz for games and 60 Hz for desktop apps? Or is it bad to switch between 60 and 120 Hz all the time? The ICC profile should also be set for 120 Hz and not for 60 Hz. Would you recommend that and how do I achieve that?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really? Look at the red bar of this picture. That bar is supposed to be 1 solid color. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3wb0kjcyzl30ngi/IMG_20140304_152638.jpg


Yes it does not look so good in that picture i have to admit...however if you can not live with this at 120hz then all i can suggest ruining at 96hz!...With problems like this it is literally luck of the draw some get better screen uniformity than other and if you do not see this at 60hz you can force Ebay to take any action on your behalf...i am sorry...there is only one thing i can think that might improve it!...but it is in no way a guarantee and might not affect anything...and it is trying a different Duel link cable or even swapping ports if you have more duel link ports available on your graphics card? ..and if this does not work than i think your out of options sorry....Also i forgot did you apply my ICC profiles as these could also help with it not being so noticeable?


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Only if you play competitively. There is a benefit in that you get about 8ms less total input lag, but that's pretty small compared to the 200-300 ms of input lag most people have when online gaming. Running 120hz on SLI also requires hacked drivers, which means you can't watch DVD or Blu-Ray movies (if anyone does that nowadays...)


I do play competitively actually. I'm a Diamond player, so it's bred into me. I'm on a pretty crappy glossy HP and am not happy with the results on it. And since I do have have 2x GTX 680's, I'm sure I can play a few games at max settings and get a little better visual details out of my games (which is what I like most) If a game is goregous, I could care less about how it fun it is, but it works both ways, if it's ugly (like League) it better be hella fun









I also do a lot of web development, having a monitor like this would be good idea for me for color accuracy, but I'm just trying to decide on the 120hz if it's worth it or not. If it's not worth it, I'll just grab a PP from another person, it seems extremcastle is having issues shipping


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes it does not look so good in that picture i have to admit...however if you can not live with this at 120hz then all i can suggest ruining at 96hz!...With problems like this it is literally luck of the draw some get better screen uniformity than other and if you do not see this at 60hz you can force Ebay to take any action on your behalf...i am sorry...there is only one thing i can think that might improve it!...but it is in no way a guarantee and might not affect anything...and it is trying a different Duel link cable or even swapping ports if you have more duel link ports available on your graphics card? ..and if this does not work than i think your out of options sorry....Also i forgot did you apply my ICC profiles as these could also help with it not being so noticeable?


ok too bad







And yes I applied them. But I can't manage to apply the 96 Hz profile







. When I press on ''associate'' in Color Sustainer, the font color is red and not green as for the 120 Hz (which does work). And pressing the start button and stop button doesn't change anything for the 96 Hz.

EDIT: Worked now. But font is still red. But the thing that I use 120 Hz for gaming and 60 Hz for desktop is not an option?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> ok too bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes I applied them. But I can't manage to apply the 96 Hz profile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . When I press on ''associate'' in Color Sustainer, the font color is red and not green as for the 120 Hz (which does work). And pressing the start button and stop button doesn't change anything for the 96 Hz.


Ahh Yes indeed it will i am sorry it is because yasamoka has not got around to added support for basICColor display 5 icc profiles in Color Sustainer yet...however this 96hz profile should do the trick!

96hzD6500200cdm.zip 15k .zip file


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ahh Yes indeed it will i am sorry it is because yasamoka has not got around to added support for basICColor display 5 icc profiles in Color Sustainer yet...however this 96hz profile should do the trick!
> 
> 96hzD6500200cdm.zip 15k .zip file


Ah ok, thanks that worked. But @96Hz it is better but the up-right side is still noticable darker than the left side. Should I use the 120 Hz pixel clock settings for the 96 Hz?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I do play competitively actually. I'm a Diamond player, so it's bred into me. I'm on a pretty crappy glossy HP and am not happy with the results on it. And since I do have have 2x GTX 680's, I'm sure I can play a few games at max settings and get a little better visual details out of my games (which is what I like most) If a game is goregous, I could care less about how it fun it is, but it works both ways, if it's ugly (like League) it better be hella fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also do a lot of web development, having a monitor like this would be good idea for me for color accuracy, but I'm just trying to decide on the 120hz if it's worth it or not. If it's not worth it, I'll just grab a PP from another person, it seems extremcastle is having issues shipping


Well, put it this way; your ping has more of an effect on your input lag than running a Qnix at 120hz.

If you don't mind hacking your drivers (there's a guide in the first post), go for a Qnix, from just about any seller except red-cap (red-cap has ignored the "law" before and outright screwed his customers in the past, denying refunds and returns for obvious product defects). Accessorieswhole has, in the thousands of posts i've read, generally been well-received, except for a spate of problems in the past with some CrossOver monitors; but that was a manufacturing issue, of which she has no control over. Again, I think PP is stupid, but if it makes you feel better, go for it (and do _not_ buy from red-cap). The majority of buyers, including yours truly, have received monitors without pixel defects even without "pixel perfect".


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Ah ok, thanks that worked. But @96Hz it is better but the up-right side is still noticable darker than the left side. Should I use the 120 Hz pixel clock settings for the 96 Hz?


No you should not need any timings at 96hz...just add 96 hz in your profile and save it...for 120hz optimized timings bring you pixel clock nearer to the 450mhz pixel clock limit which will give you a stronger signal at 120hz


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Ah ok, thanks that worked. But @96Hz it is better but the up-right side is still noticable darker than the left side. Should I use the 120Hz pixel clock settings for the 96 Hz?


Looks like your panel doesn't have as much room for overclocking as other panels do. Try it, and if it makes a difference, keep the LCD reduced settings.


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No you should not need any timings at 96hz...just add 96 hz in your profile and save it...for 120hz optimized timings bring you pixel clock nearer to the 450mhz pixel clock limit which will give you a stronger signal at 120hz


Used those timings for 96 Hz and it did improve it a bit







. But I am on ''manual'' settings in CRU, not on ''LCD Reduced settings". Should I select LCD Reduced Settings instead of manual?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Used those timings for 96 Hz and it did improve it a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But I am on ''manual'' settings in CRU, not on ''LCD Reduced settings". Should I select LCD Reduced Settings instead of manual?


You can use what ever works best for you


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Looks like your panel doesn't have as much room for overclocking as other panels do. Try it, and if it makes a difference, keep the LCD reduced settings.


kevinsbane will you please STOP continuously PM-ING me or i will be forced to report you!.. i have asked you nicely yet you still continue to PM me ..it is now becoming harassment please STOP!
I wish NO further contact with you now PLEASE respect my decision!


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Hope you go the right kind; a DisplayPort to Dual Link DVI adapter (the one with an extra USB port for power). There are a lot of DisplayPort-> DVI adapters that don't work with these monitors. 24.50GBP doesn't quite sound expensive enough to be one of those, but hey, you might have found one cheaper.


Yes it's an active one: Dell Bizlink Display Port to Dual Link DVI - Claims to support up to 2560x1600.



I've got 2 HP LP2065 1600x1200 20" monitors that I'm going to put either side of the Qnix and hope to run these off 2 external USB to VGA adapters.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Do you have cleartext turned on? It helps some by using subpixel rendering to increase sharpness.


I think so. I'll have a play. I was sitting very close and when my VESA mounts arrive I'll have it a t a more reasonable distance. Like I said, I've got too used to looking at a 9.7" Retina resolution display on a Chinese tablet and a 5.4" 1080P AMOLED display on my Galaxy Note 3, so I guess I was a little disappointed with the text on the Qnix.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> Yes it's an active one: Dell Bizlink Display Port to Dual Link DVI - Claims to support up to 2560x1600.


Nice catch! That'll do nicely. I never _recommend_ them, as the adapters are notoriously finicky. But if you need them, you need them, and when they do work, they work well. You can even overclock them







Not as far as real video cards, but still, it's possible.
Quote:


> I've got 2 HP LP2065 1600x1200 20" monitors that I'm going to put either side of the Qnix and hope to run these off 2 external USB to VGA adapters.
> I think so. I'll have a play. I was sitting very close and when my VESA mounts arrive I'll have it a t a more reasonable distance. Like I said, I've got too used to looking at a 9.7" Retina resolution display on a Chinese tablet and a 5.4" 1080P AMOLED display on my Galaxy Note 3, so I guess I was a little disappointed with the text on the Qnix.


Haha, yeah, I've got a Nexus 5 and 7, and they both have clearer text. Still, mounting it farther away has the odd result of the text being slightly too small







I must be getting old.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> Yes it's an active one: Dell Bizlink Display Port to Dual Link DVI - Claims to support up to 2560x1600.
> 
> 
> 
> I've got 2 HP LP2065 1600x1200 20" monitors that I'm going to put either side of the Qnix and hope to run these off 2 external USB to VGA adapters.
> I think so. I'll have a play. I was sitting very close and when my VESA mounts arrive I'll have it a t a more reasonable distance. Like I said, I've got too used to looking at a 9.7" Retina resolution display on a Chinese tablet and a 5.4" 1080P AMOLED display on my Galaxy Note 3, so I guess I was a little disappointed with the text on the Qnix.


Hey Dr Steve I am sorry that you had a delay in shipping!.. however i am glad that you received a pixel perfect monitor from excellentcastle!...you are the third member in the last 24 hours that has received a perfect pixel monitor from excellentcastle!


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey Dr Steve I am sorry that you had a delay in shipping!.. however i am glad that you received a pixel perfect monitor from excellentcastle!...you are the third member in the last 24 hours that has received a perfect pixel monitor from excellentcastle!


We're too used to hearing 2-3 day experiences of the majority and I guess my teddies went out of the cot when I saw March 13th !!!! But despite the initial delay and the brief hiccup at the end, just over a week ain't bad really !

Problem is now I'm wondering whether I need to upgrade my main rig. It's relatively long in the tooth but ought to be up to handling games from a few years back. I'm not a hardcore gamer but would like to try the first Crysis games etc. I'm currently running an Athlon II x4 635 Black Edition with 12GB RAM and a 240GB SSD but I've only got a 1GB Nvidia EVGA 650Ti.

I'm rather tempted by the AMD R9 270x and 280x's though. I've never dropped over 220 notes on a graphics card before ! Eeeek







Any thoughts? I understand they're just rebranded versions of previous cards with a price drop to sweeten the deal. Aria have a Sapphire R9 280x 3GB with £40 off @ £229 at the moment.

http://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/Sapphire+Radeon+R9+280X+Dual-X+OC+AMD+Graphics+Card+-+3GB+?productId=57840

Perhaps I need to slow down a bit. I've already bought the Qnix, Two dual bracket VESA mounts (not bad @ £70 for a pair delivered from Amazon), the Display port to Dual link DVI adapter to run the Qnix from the laptop (which I picked up used on eBay for 24.50 delivered), and two USB to DVI external adapters for £50 for a pair again from eBay (again I'm hoping to run the 3 monitors from the Latitude 6510 docking station.









And all because I innocently bumbled on to this forum !!! You guys should be ashamed, making me spend money like this !


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> We're too used to hearing 2-3 day experiences of the majority and I guess my teddies went out of the cot when I saw March 13th !!!! But despite the initial delay and the brief hiccup at the end, just over a week ain't bad really !
> 
> Problem is now I'm wondering whether I need to upgrade my main rig. It's relatively long in the tooth but ought to be up to handling games from a few years back. I'm not a hardcore gamer but would like to try the first Crysis games etc. I'm currently running an Athlon II x4 635 Black Edition with 12GB RAM and a 240GB SSD but I've only got a 1GB Nvidia EVGA 650Ti.
> 
> I'm rather tempted by the AMD R9 270x and 280x's though. I've never dropped over 220 notes on a graphics card before ! Eeeek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? I understand they're just rebranded versions of previous cards with a price drop to sweeten the deal. Aria have a Sapphire R9 280x 3GB with £40 off @ £229 at the moment.
> 
> http://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/Sapphire+Radeon+R9+280X+Dual-X+OC+AMD+Graphics+Card+-+3GB+?productId=57840
> 
> Perhaps I need to slow down a bit. I've already bought the Qnix, Two dual bracket VESA mounts (not bad @ £70 for a pair delivered from Amazon), the Display port to Dual link DVI adapter to run the Qnix from the laptop (which I picked up used on eBay for 24.50 delivered), and two USB to DVI external adapters for £50 for a pair again from eBay (again I'm hoping to run the 3 monitors from the Latitude 6510 docking station.


Definitely could use an update. 650Ti is a little too little to be running 1440p in 3D! 230 GBP for a R9 280x is definitely cheaper than what those are going for in NA... They're going for $500+ here. How much are GTX780 over there? They're almost the same price as r9 280x, but are much faster. Would be a better choice if the prices are comparable.

Of course, that's even _more_ money to spend


----------



## Dr Steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Definitely could use an update. 650Ti is a little too little to be running 1440p in 3D! 230 GBP for a R9 280x is definitely cheaper than what those are going for in NA... They're going for $500+ here. How much are GTX780 over there? They're almost the same price as r9 280x, but are much faster. Would be a better choice if the prices are comparable.
> 
> Of course, that's even _more_ money to spend


Nah, GTX780's are silly money. £360 - £500. I know Bitcoin mining is making R9 supplies scarce and raised prices a bit. The highest I'd go would be the 280x. Even a 270x would probably be fine for me.

I wouldn't be trying to run 3 monitors for gaming (that'd just be for work). My budget would be around £200 if I went for it. Sad thing is I only bought the 650Ti about 6 months ago to upgrade a 7800GT ! I guess I could stick it on eBay as it's nearly mint. I've hardly switched on the main machine as I work mainly from the laptop and work has been manic !

Ho hum !


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Steve*
> 
> Nah, GTX780's are silly money. £360 - £500. I know Bitcoin mining is making R9 supplies scarce and raised prices a bit. The highest I'd go would be the 280x. Even a 270x would probably be fine for me.
> 
> I wouldn't be trying to run 3 monitors for gaming (that'd just be for work). My budget would be around £200 if I went for it. Sad thing is I only bought the 650Ti about 6 months ago to upgrade a 7800GT ! I guess I could stick it on eBay as it's nearly mint. I've hardly switched on the main machine as I work mainly from the laptop and work has been manic !
> 
> Ho hum !


Ouch on the 780. In Canada, GTX 780 ~$520, and R9 280x are ~$500, so it's a no brainer. Well, try running with the 650Ti first, and if there's problems, upgrade then.


----------



## Swolern

Im sure this has been asked before, but what adapter can I use for an hdmi output on a gpu?

Will this dual link DVI-D to hdmi adapter connected to back of panel and hdmi cord run to gpu work? http://www.cablesandkits.com/dvid-dual-link-male-to-hdmi-female-adapter-p-3378.html?CAWELAID=120126460000006933&"cagpspn=pla"&gclid=CJi7yMnN-bwCFeJF7Aodt3wACw

This panel will be ran @ 60hz.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Im sure this has been asked before, but what adapter can I use for an hdmi output on a gpu?
> 
> Will this dual link DVI-D to hdmi adapter connected to back of panel and hdmi cord run to gpu work? http://www.cablesandkits.com/dvid-dual-link-male-to-hdmi-female-adapter-p-3378.html?CAWELAID=120126460000006933&"cagpspn=pla"&gclid=CJi7yMnN-bwCFeJF7Aodt3wACw
> 
> This panel will be ran @ 60hz.


Won't work at 60hz.

Actually, _one_ person has gotten it working at 60hz, but that was with hacked drivers and it was terribly unstable. 30hz is generally what can be expected for an HDMI -> DVI conversion.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Won't work at 60hz.
> 
> Actually, _one_ person has gotten it working at 60hz, but that was with hacked drivers and it was terribly unstable. 30hz is generally what can be expected for an HDMI -> DVI conversion.


I see. Thanks Kevin.


----------



## stilllogicz

Is there anyway to mod the metal bezel to make the sides slimmer so it won't be as big an eyesore in 3x1 eyefinity?


----------



## Strickt

I purchased a QX2710 from Newegg on Sunday with 3-5 day shipping and I'm still showing the tracking status as this

"A UPS shipping label has been created. Once the shipment arrives at our facility, the tracking status--including the scheduled delivery date--will be updated."

Has anyone purchased one of these from Newegg and did they get it on time?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> I purchased a QX2710 from Newegg on Sunday with 3-5 day shipping and I'm still showing the tracking status as this
> 
> "A UPS shipping label has been created. Once the shipment arrives at our facility, the tracking status--including the scheduled delivery date--will be updated."
> 
> Has anyone purchased one of these from Newegg and did they get it on time?


I wasn't aware Newegg sold these, I thought they were Ebay, Amazon, and a few other odd sites only.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I wasn't aware Newegg sold these, I thought they were Ebay, Amazon, and a few other odd sites only.


Newegg has them, they are listed as being sold by other sellers.


----------



## Osteoman

Dr Steve,

I'm glad it came in and looks good. Sorry it took longer then expected.

Your right about these forums can cause you to drop some coin.


----------



## jiroda

New guy here and just FYI I have gone through the FAQ and couple of posts on this thread. These Korean monitors sure did impress me and I have decided to get one this week. I am looking at a QX2710.I know these monitors cannot be "dead pixel/ black light bleed" free or else they wont be A- panels. What I need is one that's not dead on arrival and does not have a cluster of dead pixels.

I have a couple of options when it comes to buying them which one would you recommend ?

1. *Amazon* -
http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1393993758&sr=1-1&keywords=qnix
Even though the seller ships it from S Korea, I have amazon customer service to back me up if something goes wrong.

2. *Ebay*-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
I chose this seller over the others because he clearly says 0 dead /stuck pixel. Would you recommend this seller or any one else ?

3. *Newegg*
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885
I have bought a lot of things from new egg, but this one is from an international seller. I would rather face newegg for issues than the seller or else its the same as getting it from ebay!

4. *ipsledmonitor.com*
If I go for this, would you recommend the 3 yr warranty since its within US ?

Thanks in advance !


----------



## Watagump

Many have bought them from excellentcastle and have been happy. They have also bought the non perfect or ultimate, so that choice is up to you. Another option is get the cheapest from ebay and get a square trade warranty.


----------



## tocirahl

Some more Calibration Profiles for the QNIX QX2710 Evolution II.
Created using Argyll with a Spyder 4.

*60 Hz:*
80 Lux (6 clicks): https://mega.co.nz/#!iYcTnLpR!R3Cgv2eccYIpaPHYKz5whDGuF4UJkb1oQx4yVmJD0O4
120 Lux (9 clicks): https://mega.co.nz/#!KYVXABzJ!8aKP6pk2000-TKuf2S28xW64KhN60C5UruyzIfpqbUA
200 Lux (16 clicks): https://mega.co.nz/#!fVEj1STJ!KaFsK2BCyAOIt75yKBtHuG2XaM5wrW0w52_kTZ_t-a4

*96 Hz:*
80 Lux (6 clicks): https://mega.co.nz/#!SNcXwJBa!dEr9v1_poSXF1ZwKctlQVvInKJkj_8ZL5HJ8YjN8eWU
120 Lux (10 clicks): https://mega.co.nz/#!XFdknSaL!cne_RDc0a2o7vSW5hgCyI28sPyEyP1yI28H-WVQmFtU
200 Lux (18 clicks): https://mega.co.nz/#!rU0gwDwb!Vf9hSPuFkJwiJqr8muyW_ewcVY8-ZQxci_0KRSZ83DI

*120 Hz:*
80 Lux (7 clicks): https://mega.co.nz/#!vQshjBaL!9yEWg9EYfpcvnp1cdu2NVb_sj3Quq5B8FIQOMupu2Vk
120 Lux (11 clicks): https://mega.co.nz/#!3Y9VgQhT!0DxeGSCVs_oitXB1EXgxxQjIO2LWB5HKkuByvUi3IXs
200 Lux (19 clicks): https://mega.co.nz/#!WAElQaLb!NpTMA8-NyOnhAc_H88AL4HHqwJRFFzI5bVfV9n4b7xQ


----------



## Swolern

There looks to be no more Qnix glossys around on Ebay. Only matte and tempered. The ones i saw were $700 plus. Why are they so high?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> There looks to be no more Qnix glossys around on Ebay. Only matte and tempered. The ones i saw were $700 plus. Why are they so high?


Every time I have looked for actual glossy for both Qnix and X-Star they are in the $600 to $700 range. The reasons why have never been proven, just people giving possible reasons. The ones I looked at do have multiple connections, but that shouldn't make them as high as they are listed.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Every time I have looked for actual glossy for both Qnix and X-Star they are in the $600 to $700 range. The reasons why have never been proven, just people giving possible reasons. The ones I looked at do have multiple connections, but that shouldn't make them as high as they are listed.


After I compared the picture quality of "Glossy" to matte & tempered I will never go back to a non-glossy finish. The matte on the Qnix is not as thick as some of the other manufactures out there, but there is still a difference.

Well I have been thinking about moving to 1 4k monitor and selling my 3 Qnix Glossys. I guess now is a good time to sell. Going to put them in the marketplace


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> After I compared the picture quality of "Glossy" to matte & tempered I will never go back to a non-glossy finish. The matte on the Qnix is not as thick as some of the other manufactures out there, but there is still a difference.
> 
> Well I have been thinking about moving to 1 4k monitor and selling my 3 Qnix Glossys. I guess now is a good time to sell. Going to put them in the marketplace


I have posted before about my desire to try a glossy also. But after looking through my choices to get one I could overclock and be glossy the prices just made me not want to go Korean. The Monex is glossy, yet doesn't overclock, so it would be going 60hz. In the end here I have my Asus, non glossy, 60hz, its pretty much like what I had with my HP just bigger. I still have this curiosity thing about missing out not getting a glossy, maybe next time, even though I could still return my Asus.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have posted before about my desire to try a glossy also. But after looking through my choices to get one I could overclock and be glossy the prices just made me not want to go Korean. The Monex is glossy, yet doesn't overclock, so it would be going 60hz. In the end here I have my Asus, non glossy, 60hz, its pretty much like what I had with my HP just bigger. I still have this curiosity thing about missing out not getting a glossy, maybe next time, even though I could still return my Asus.


Once you buy a monitor above 60Hz (96-120hz) you will never want to go back to 60Hz for gaming. Makes a massive difference imo. It takes a lot of GPU grunt though. I have had many 120hz monitors for years now so even at the desktop 60hz just looks bad to me. That is the one thing that was holding me back from 4k.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Once you buy a monitor above 60Hz (96-120hz) you will never want to go back to 60Hz for gaming. Makes a massive difference imo. It takes a lot of GPU grunt though. I have had many 120hz monitors for years now so even at the desktop 60hz just looks bad to me. That is the one thing that was holding me back from 4k.


GTX 770 SLI, I have the muscle.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> GTX 770 SLI, I have the muscle.


*DO IT!!!!!!!!*


----------



## DBCoopa

Hello,

First thing first, glad with the monitor but I found a problem with it.

I couldn't find any bad pixels but I would like to ask if you experienced strange thick lines mostly visible only on black color or really dark color on stock frequency. On black parts of pictures and with high brightness, this becomes very disturbing. It is visible only on theleft side of the LCD and visibility rises with user looking more from the bottom of the LCD (like when you have eyes in height of lower QNIX logo). Lines are there during bios and start up too.

It seems more people are having this problem, is it fixable? Or do I have to send it back, beside that the monitor clocks over good to 120hz without any dead pixels or serious backlight bleeding.

Iliass









http://cdn.overclock.net/0/0c/0c08d4c3_DSC00297.jpeg

Sent this to the seller, got this back as a response..

Hi

Sorry for your inconvenience.
It is a kind of backlight bleeding.
As we said, due to the panel characteristics, the monitor could have some backlight bleeding.
Hope for your understanding.
Could you kindly try to lower down the brightness of monitor?

If there is any issue, please let us know.
We always do our best to support our buyer.
Thank you.


----------



## doco

lol. it's so obvious the korean seller you bought from is trying to dodge the issue and hope you don't do anything about it. which korean seller did you buy it from?

check your cable. try another cable. open up panel and make sure there are no loose connections inside. otherwise you're stuck trying to RMA it back to south korea.

or try the tape method as a last resort and hope it was something pressuring the panel to make those lines.


----------



## DBCoopa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> lol. it's so obvious the korean seller you bought from is trying to dodge the issue and hope you don't do anything about it. which korean seller did you buy it from?
> 
> check your cable. try another cable. open up panel and make sure there are no loose connections inside. otherwise you're stuck trying to RMA it back to south korea.


Bought it from accessorieswhole, don't have another cable to test it with. I prefer not opening this monitor myself (0% experience with opening monitors), so best to send it back for RMA?

Bleh, this sucks..


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jiroda*
> 
> New guy here and just FYI I have gone through the FAQ and couple of posts on this thread. These Korean monitors sure did impress me and I have decided to get one this week. I am looking at a QX2710.I know these monitors cannot be "dead pixel/ black light bleed" free or else they wont be A- panels. What I need is one that's not dead on arrival and does not have a cluster of dead pixels.
> 
> I have a couple of options when it comes to buying them which one would you recommend ?
> 
> 1. *Amazon* -
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1393993758&sr=1-1&keywords=qnix
> Even though the seller ships it from S Korea, I have amazon customer service to back me up if something goes wrong.
> 
> 2. *Ebay*-
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
> I chose this seller over the others because he clearly says 0 dead /stuck pixel. Would you recommend this seller or any one else ?
> 
> 3. *Newegg*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885
> I have bought a lot of things from new egg, but this one is from an international seller. I would rather face newegg for issues than the seller or else its the same as getting it from ebay!
> 
> 4. *ipsledmonitor.com*
> If I go for this, would you recommend the 3 yr warranty since its within US ?
> 
> Thanks in advance !


Hi which monitor to get depends on you....however some things to consider....they are all A- panels there is mainly 2 reason for this one is some have dead stuck pixels...others have dead/stuck pixels and back light bleed...if you get one with dead stuck pixels you will not be able to fix the dead pixels...you may be able if lucky to fix the stuck pixels by going to you tube and finding a stuck pixel film to run...but it is not guaranteed that this method will move the stuck pixel..but some have had success using this method...however you can always fix back light bleed with a little confidence and taking your time and using my guide..

So you choices are as follows..buy a random monitor which will most probably have Back light bleed as most have!..also you and could have dead/stuck pixels meaning you have dead/stuck pixel plus BLB!..or buy the ultimate pixel perfect Qinx from excellentcastle..i personally would buy the from ultimate pixel perfect from excellentcastle and buy a 3 year Square trade insurance policy as i did..because Back light bleed can be fixed 100% guaranteed if you have the confidence to take the monitor apart and fix it...we have found the main course of back light bleed is the fact that the monitor is sitting in a bent metal frame this can be fixed very easily if you follow my guide you just need the confidence to take the monitor apart...the tape fix does NOT work most of the as all that does is tries to do is seal the gaps of the bent metal frame...once the frame is straightened there is no need for any tape as you have fixed the source of the problem instead of plugging the gaps...so they are the facts and now the choice is yours...

I went the perfect pixel route and fixed my BLB 100% and i could not be happier because i now have an A+ Screen for only £200!...if you want to go the perfect pixel route as i did i would only use excellentcastle at this point in time as we have found that he has constantly been supplying pixel perfect monitors if you buy his ultimate pixel perfect..i know what i would do its perfect pixel for me every time and fix the BLB...i hope this helps









Edit: i would contact excellentcastle first before you buy his ultimate pixel perfect monitor as it would seem he has had some trouble acquiring them which means you may have to wait a week or so...but if you want a perfect pixel monitor it would be well worth the week or so wait!..as many of our members i am sure will tell you that have bought his ultimate pixel perfect monitor from him! ...As they have been more than pleased with there monitors!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> First thing first, glad with the monitor but I found a problem with it.
> 
> I couldn't find any bad pixels but I would like to ask if you experienced strange thick lines mostly visible only on black color or really dark color on stock frequency. On black parts of pictures and with high brightness, this becomes very disturbing. It is visible only on theleft side of the LCD and visibility rises with user looking more from the bottom of the LCD (like when you have eyes in height of lower QNIX logo). Lines are there during bios and start up too.
> 
> It seems more people are having this problem, is it fixable? Or do I have to send it back, beside that the monitor clocks over good to 120hz without any dead pixels or serious backlight bleeding.
> 
> Iliass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/0/0c/0c08d4c3_DSC00297.jpeg
> 
> Sent this to the seller, got this back as a response..
> 
> Hi
> 
> Sorry for your inconvenience.
> It is a kind of backlight bleeding.
> As we said, due to the panel characteristics, the monitor could have some backlight bleeding.
> Hope for your understanding.
> Could you kindly try to lower down the brightness of monitor?
> 
> If there is any issue, please let us know.
> We always do our best to support our buyer.
> Thank you.


Hi you are seeing these bands from the back light bleeding which you have in the lower left hand corner and the seller will not exchange the monitor with BLB!...as for him telling you its *"due to the panel characteristics"* is B.S however you have bought an A- panel and most if not all have BLB to some degree...however this can be fixed 100% with taking your time and having a little confidence in yourself...if you click on the link below you will find a few post of mine on that page that will guide you though the process of permanently fixing your BLB you do not need any tape also because you are fixing the the source of the problem instead of filling the gaps from NOT straightening the frame...BTW it is not a hard job at all to fix and straighten the frame it only took me only 30-40 mins to complete the whole job that includes removing the panel straightening the frame and refitting the panel back into the case.. good luck!..









http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## DBCoopa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi you are seeing these bands from the back light bleeding which you have in the lower left hand corner and the seller will not exchange the monitor with BLB!...as for him telling you its *"due to the panel characteristics"* is B.S however you have bought an A- panel and most if not all have BLB to some degree...however this can be fixed 100% with taking your time and having a little confidence in yourself...if you click on the link below you will find a few post of mine on that page that will guide you though the process of permanently fixing your BLB you do not need any tape also because you are fixing the the source of the problem instead of filling the gaps from NOT straightening the frame...BTW it is not a hard job at all to fix and straighten the frame it only took me only 30-40 mins to complete the whole job that includes removing the panel straightening the frame and refitting the panel back into the case.. good luck!..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


Thanks alot for your reply, gave me some configdence. I will try it.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> Thanks alot for your reply, gave me some configdence. I will try it.


Good i am glad i helped you!.. and i am sure that if you carefully read my posts on that page that you will have a 100% perfect A+ grade panel by the end of that guide


----------



## DBCoopa

I hope so, I'll first try to find someone in The Netherlands who has experience with opening these monitors and fixing this problem with payment. If I can't find anyone, then I'll try myself.

To be sure, by following those steps, those lines will dissapear?

Thanks in advance mate.


----------



## Jirachi

I got one problem with my 96Hz overclock in Minecraft. When I'm in fullscreen mode, I get some weird artifacts (I think it are artifiacts). Every 5-20 seconds I get a thick, white bar on my sceeen which appears and immidiately disappears. I recorded it with my phone, and paused the video on the moment the white bar appears. And then I took a screenshot on my phone. You can see it here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v92pfh1nkmltfxc/Screenshot_2014-03-05-12-30-51.png

Again, I only have this problem in fullscreen mode. I think I have this problem in Team Fortress 2 as well, but less. In other games as BF4 and Left for dead 2 I dont have this problem. What could this be and what to do? I run on reduced Pixel clock settings and I have two Sapphire R9 290 Tri-Xs running in crossfire.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> I hope so, I'll first try to find someone in The Netherlands who has experience with opening these monitors and fixing this problem with payment. If I can't find anyone, then I'll try myself.
> 
> To be sure, by following those steps, those lines will dissapear?
> 
> Thanks in advance mate.


You are seeing those lines only in the left hand corner where the BLB is ..you are not seeing them anywhere else...once your BLB is fixed it will be the same as the rest of the panel..also use these timings from the picture below for your 120hz overclock it will lower your pixel clock nearer to the 450mhz pixel clock limit which will give you a much stronger signal


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> I got one problem with my 96Hz overclock in Minecraft. When I'm in fullscreen mode, I get some weird artifacts (I think it are artifiacts). Every 5-20 seconds I get a thick, white bar on my sceeen which appears and immidiately disappears. I recorded it with my phone, and paused the video on the moment the white bar appears. And then I took a screenshot on my phone. You can see it here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v92pfh1nkmltfxc/Screenshot_2014-03-05-12-30-51.png
> 
> Again, I only have this problem in fullscreen mode. I think I have this problem in Team Fortress 2 as well, but less. In other games as BF4 and Left for dead 2 I dont have this problem. What could this be and what to do? I run on reduced Pixel clock settings and I have two Sapphire R9 290 Tri-Xs running in crossfire.


You are using Auto timings for your 96hz resolution right?...you did not use my 120hz timings for your 96hz are you?...most can get away just using auto timings for 96hz...also do you have another cable to try?..and if you have another DVI-D port i would try switching the cable to that port to see if it makes any difference?..as some have found changing ports or cables have fixed problems like this once they have checked there timings etc..


----------



## DBCoopa

Hmm ok, thanks for your time.

Currently using this setting:










Or should I use yours?


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Hey Lawson which DVI Cable are you using again? I need one to fix my flickering that I get on high Hz.


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You are using Auto timings for your 96hz resolution right?...you did not use my 120hz timings for your 96hz are you?...most can get away just using auto timings for 96hz...also do you have another cable to try?..and if you have another DVI-D port i would try switching the cable to that port to see if it makes any difference?..as some have found changing ports or cables have fixed problems like this once they have checked there timings etc..


Thanks for your reply. I use your 120 Hz timings, because the right side of the screen was still signifcantly darker than the left side. Once changing the timings for 96 Hz too, it got better, but I can try and see if I change the 96 Hz timings to default. Maybe that helps. I tried different DVI-D cables and ports, but with no luck.

EDIT: Tried the default settings, and now the problem is gone, but now my right side of the screen is dnoticable darker.. Don't want this either. Any way to fix this or use other timings?

EDIT2: Tried it with 120 Hz and with your reduced timings as well, and now I get the problem again.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> Hmm ok, thanks for your time.
> 
> Currently using this setting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or should I use yours?


No those timing look good to me..some people can not use as low a pixel clock this..however most can use these timings!.. and your banding that you are seeing is only where the back light bleed is coming from and can also seen at 60hz....96hz and 120hz. so your 120hz timings are fine...if you could not use these 120hz timings you would have artefacts at 120hz that you do not see at 96hz or 60hz..i hope this helps


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Hey Lawson which DVI Cable are you using again? I need one to fix my flickering that I get on high Hz.


Hi Immortal i am using this cable in the link below...however there has been no evidence that using high quality Cable could preform better than a random cable...in fact i think Spaton F8 got his lowest pixel clock using a random cable he found at work after trying 30 other cables..but i can clock to 130hz and i am using this cable in the link below

http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/2m-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2793


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi Immortal i am using this cable in the link below...however there has been no evidence that using high quality Cable could preform better than a random cable...in fact i think Spaton F8 got his lowest pixel clock using a random cable he found at work after trying 30 other cables..but i can clock to 130hz and i am using this cable in the link below
> 
> http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/2m-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2793


Interesting okay, hm I might wait until I get my 780 then before I spend money on a expensive cable.. I don't know just seems weird it's flickering at 96hz at specific colours like really little flickering I don't notice it ingame but in movies. However at 120 fps it's a lot worse so - as I said my old monitor had the same issues at high fps raitos and I changed the 3 year old cable into a new cheap one, but this cable is just 3 weeks old so idk^^


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> Hmm ok, thanks for your time.
> 
> Currently using this setting:
> 
> Or should I use yours?


DBCoopa you also could counter the seller if you really want to change your monitor by telling him that you do not believe this banding is only showing or made more obvous/ noticable becarse of BLB...how successful you will be with the seller i don't know but is always worth a try?...however you are only seeing this banding over the area where you are having the BLB!... but i would still send pictures of this and show the seller and/or open up a case with Ebay


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Interesting okay, hm I might wait until I get my 780 then before I spend money on a expensive cable.. I don't know just seems weird it's flickering at 96hz at specific colours like really little flickering I don't notice it ingame but in movies. However at 120 fps it's a lot worse so - as I said my old monitor had the same issues at high fps raitos and I changed the 3 year old cable into a new cheap one, but this cable is just 3 weeks old so idk^^


Things you could try...reseat your graphics card...try your cable in another port if you have one..and of course try a different cable









And Check your 120hz timings


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You are using Auto timings for your 96hz resolution right?...you did not use my 120hz timings for your 96hz are you?...most can get away just using auto timings for 96hz...also do you have another cable to try?..and if you have another DVI-D port i would try switching the cable to that port to see if it makes any difference?..as some have found changing ports or cables have fixed problems like this once they have checked there timings etc..


Thanks for your reply. I use your 120 Hz timings, because the right side of the screen was still signifcantly darker than the left side. Once changing the timings for 96 Hz too, it got better, but I can try and see if I change the 96 Hz timings to default. Maybe that helps. I tried different DVI-D cables and ports, but with no luck.

EDIT: Tried the default settings, and now the problem is gone, but now my right side of the screen is dnoticable darker.. Don't want this either. Any way to fix this or use other timings?

EDIT2: Tried it with 120 Hz and with your reduced timings as well, and now I get the problem again.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I use your 120 Hz timings, because the right side of the screen was still signifcantly darker than the left side. Once changing the timings for 96 Hz too, it got better, but I can try and see if I change the 96 Hz timings to default. Maybe that helps. I tried different DVI-D cables and ports, but with no luck.
> 
> EDIT: Tried the default settings, and now the problem is gone, but now my right side of the screen is dnoticable darker.. Don't want this either. Any way to fix this or use other timings?
> 
> EDIT2: Tried it with 120 Hz and with your reduced timings as well, and now I get the problem again.


Screen uniformity can be seen once overclocked and some have it worse than others...timings can help reduce this..however i would be more worried about that big band you had across the screen and it seems that changing to default settings at 96hz took this away?....if you have tried different cables ports etc there's not much left that you can do other than mess with your 96hz timing but i don't think it will help much at 96hz but by all means try

BTW: are you using a 96hz ICC profile as this can help reduce the appearance of Screen uniformity?


----------



## DBCoopa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> DBCoopa you also could counter the seller if you really want to change your monitor by telling him that you do not believe this banding is only showing or made more obvous/ noticable becarse of BLB...how successful you will be with the seller i don't know but is always worth a try?...however you are only seeing this banding over the area where you are having the BLB!... but i would still send pictures of this and show the seller and/or open up a case with Ebay


What would you do? Try to fix it yourself or If you could find someone to fix, let someone fix it for a fee or send it back/contact seller.

Since it has no dead pixels/excessive backlight bleed.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> What would you do? Try to fix it yourself or If you could find someone to fix, let someone fix it for a fee or send it back/contact seller.


If it was me i would fix BLB straight away and i personally believe the banding you are seeing over the BLB will be gone...i would do it now for 2 reasons...1: because i have already done it and its and easy job to do!.. also you could easily do it yourself by taking your time carefully reading my guide! and...2: because i would want to make sure the banding had gone before the 2 weeks is up which most seller give you to find any problems and they pay for the return shipping if you encounter any problems with your monitor which has not been cover by there disclaimer such as BLB etc ..

Edit: if you feel that unconfident with striping the monitor down and fixing the BLB then tell the seller that most people do NOT see banding over BLB so you want a refund/change monitor..and open a case with Ebay and the sooner the better!


----------



## DBCoopa

I don't know if this help, but If i adjust the brightness and get it darker the lines start to dissapear.

Good hope?

(Sorry for my english







)


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> I don't know if this help, but If i adjust the brightness and get it darker the lines start to dissapear.
> 
> Good hope?
> 
> (Sorry for my english
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yes it will because the LED lights go darker thus the BLB reduces...BTW.. PM sent


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Screen uniformity can be seen once overclocked and some have it worse than others...timings can help reduce this..however i would be more worried about that big band you had across the screen and it seems that changing to default settings at 96hz took this away?....if you have tried different cables ports etc there's not much left that you can do other than mess with your 96hz timing but i don't think it will help much at 96hz but by all means try
> 
> BTW: are you using a 96hz ICC profile as this can help reduce the appearance of Screen uniformity?


Yes indeed. Messing with the timings causes the white banks ingame (only minecraft and team fortress 2). Yes I use the ICC profile you provided for 96 Hz. Why would another DVI-D cable work? Afaik it is just a digital signal (1 or 0) that's going though. If the cable would be a bit broken somewhere I'd notice it immidiately or it wouldn't even work, right? I currently use the dvi cable provided with the monitor.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Yes indeed. Messing with the timings causes the white banks ingame (only minecraft and team fortress 2). Yes I use the ICC profile you provided for 96 Hz. Why would another DVI-D cable work? Afaik it is just a digital signal (1 or 0) that's going though. If the cable would be a bit broken somewhere I'd notice it immidiately or it wouldn't even work, right? I currently use the dvi cable provided with the monitor.


Some people have found that just by changing ports or cables that they have been able to reduce there pixels clocks thus overclock higher...or artefacts have gone using a different cable they have tried...changing your duel link cable guarantees nothing yet others have found that it has helped them..the same as some have over clocked higher by changing DVI-D ports or cables or even reseating there grafics cards...i understand your logic and i agree with it however these things have indeed happened

Some clam high Quality cables make no difference as its a digital signal (1 or 0) as you have quite rightly pointed out ...however i use a high quality cable and can clock stable at 130hz using this cable..who knows if its my cable that allows me to hit 130hz stable but i can!

http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/2m-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2793


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Some people have found that just by changing ports or cables that they have been able to reduce there pixels clocks thus overclock higher...or artefacts have gone using a different cable they have tried...changing your duel link cable guarantees nothing yet others have found that it has helped them..the same as some have over clocked higher by changing DVI-D ports or cables or even reseating there grafics cards...i understand your logic and i agree with it however these things have indeed happened
> 
> Some clam high Quality cables make no difference as its a digital signal (1 or 0) as you have quite rightly pointed out ...however i use a high quality cable and can clock stable at 130hz using this cable..who knows if its my cable that allows me to hit 130hz stable but i can!
> 
> http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/2m-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2793


Don't forget about Monoprice as well.

http://www.monoprice.com/Search/Index?keyword=DVI+CABLE

I have the 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2&utm_expid=58369800-11.R-enhtUGRrSdHz5vzpVS2g.0&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monoprice.com%2FSearch%2FIndex%3Fkeyword%3DDVI

Also, I have decided that I am going to order this Qnix.









http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394029870&sr=8-1&keywords=Qnix


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Don't forget about Monoprice as well.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Search/Index?keyword=DVI+CABLE
> 
> I have the 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable.
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2&utm_expid=58369800-11.R-enhtUGRrSdHz5vzpVS2g.0&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monoprice.com%2FSearch%2FIndex%3Fkeyword%3DDVI
> 
> Also, I have decided that I am going to order this Qnix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394029870&sr=8-1&keywords=Qnix


Nice looks like we have a new Qnix member in our little club now then...welcome aboard i am sure you will be happy with it


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Some people have found that just by changing ports or cables that they have been able to reduce there pixels clocks thus overclock higher...or artefacts have gone using a different cable they have tried...changing your duel link cable guarantees nothing yet others have found that it has helped them..the same as some have over clocked higher by changing DVI-D ports or cables or even reseating there grafics cards...i understand your logic and i agree with it however these things have indeed happened
> 
> Some clam high Quality cables make no difference as its a digital signal (1 or 0) as you have quite rightly pointed out ...however i use a high quality cable and can clock stable at 130hz using this cable..who knows if its my cable that allows me to hit 130hz stable but i can!
> 
> http://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/audio-video-c107/dvi-c110/2m-gold-dvi-d-dual-link-cable-p2793


Thanks. I guess I'll have to do it with the default timings then.. @96 Hz.

Pretty weird though.. Modifying timings give me the white banks in Minecraft. Do you play Minecraft tooQ? Could you test if you see them too?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Nice looks like we have a new Qnix member in our little club now then...welcome aboard i am sure you will be happy with it












Now I am pondering getting a new GPU for my new 1440P display.







I run mITX, so dual GPUs is out of the question.







Was thinking about a R9 290, but which one?







The pricing is getting back to normal, which I am happy to see.


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am pondering getting a new GPU for my new 1440P display.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I run mITX, so dual GPUs is out of the question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was thinking about a R9 290, but which one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pricing is getting back to normal, which I am happy to see.


Excellent choice! Reference cards run hot and have a lower overclock potential. So, you want a R9 290 with an aftermarket cooler. All aftermarkets which are currently available are a huge step forward compared to the reference card, and they all perform similarly. There are a few minor things you should take in mind though. First of all aftermarket cards are bigger. So, make sure that that specific card will fit in your system! Furthermore brands use different Vram compnonents. There is Elpida and HynX. Some people reported issues with Elpida Vram. In general HynX's Vram is of higher quality. Especially if you are planning to mine, you'll defenitely want to avoid Elpida.

I am not completely sure which brands use Elpida Vram, but I am sure that Sapphire uses HynX. Sapphire has the best cooler as well, but the differences in cooling are minor.

If you don't plan to mine with your rig, I would just take whatever aftermarket card is the cheapest in your country. Sapphire will defenitely be a great choice, especially if you are planning to mine.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Thanks. I guess I'll have to do it with the default timings then.. @96 Hz.
> 
> Pretty weird though.. Modifying timings give me the white banks in Minecraft. Do you play Minecraft tooQ? Could you test if you see them too?


No i am sorry i don't play Minecraft but bluedevil has also got me interested into looking for a nice R9 290....but which one to get?

Ill look for a Sapphire card if they have the best vram


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No i am sorry i don't play Minecraft but bluedevil has also got me interested into looking for a nice R9 290....but which one to get?


I am eyeing the Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC or the Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce. Seems like the Sapphire might be a bit better at cooling, but not by much. Plus the Gigabyte would match my mobo and software suite.


----------



## 3m3k

looking to get one soon and wanted to sub


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I am eyeing the Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC or the Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce. Seems like the Sapphire might be a bit better at cooling, but not by much. Plus the Gigabyte would match my mobo and software suite.


Dam that Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC looks bloody nice lol...i am very tempted indeed...image having 2 of those in crossfire...wow!...and the Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce looks great i want all of them and i want them NOW! lol


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Dam that Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC looks bloody nice lol...i am very tempted indeed...image having 2 of those in crossfire...wow!...and the Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce looks great i want all of them and i want them NOW! lol


Pissh, wind is lousy.. Reference, and just add water!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Dam that Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC looks bloody nice lol...i am very tempted indeed...image having 2 of those in crossfire...wow!...and the Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce looks great i want all of them and i want them NOW! lol


Ditto. I have been looking at the Gigabyte longer. That's the one.









Now I just have to sell my old 1080P TN panel, and my old HD 7870.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Pissh, wind is lousy.. Reference, and just add water!


Nice ill look into that also thx Sean


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Things you could try...reseat your graphics card...try your cable in another port if you have one..and of course try a different cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Check your 120hz timings


I took every step you listed (I only have one DVI port) so I am looking to try a different cable.
I've no idea about timings I don't even know what they're about







I used your CRU settings


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Pissh, wind is lousy.. Reference, and just add water!


Would my 750 watt Seasonic Gold G-series G be powerful enough to power for 2x Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce or Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC does anyone one know?


----------



## jiroda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi which monitor to get depends on you....however some things to consider....they are all A- panels there is mainly 2 reason for this one is some have dead stuck pixels...others have dead/stuck pixels and back light bleed...if you get one with dead stuck pixels you will not be able to fix the dead pixels...you may be able if lucky to fix the stuck pixels by going to you tube and finding a stuck pixel film to run...but it is not guaranteed that this method will move the stuck pixel..but some have had success using this method...however you can always fix back light bleed with a little confidence and taking your time and using my guide..
> 
> So you choices are as follows..buy a random monitor which will most probably have Back light bleed as most have!..also you and could have dead/stuck pixels meaning you have dead/stuck pixel plus BLB!..or buy the ultimate pixel perfect Qinx from excellentcastle..i personally would buy the from ultimate pixel perfect from excellentcastle and buy a 3 year Square trade insurance policy as i did..because Back light bleed can be fixed 100% guaranteed if you have the confidence to take the monitor apart and fix it...we have found the main course of back light bleed is the fact that the monitor is sitting in a bent metal frame this can be fixed very easily if you follow my guide you just need the confidence to take the monitor apart...the tape fix does NOT work most of the as all that does is tries to do is seal the gaps of the bent metal frame...once the frame is straightened there is no need for any tape as you have fixed the source of the problem instead of plugging the gaps...so they are the facts and now the choice is yours...
> 
> I went the perfect pixel route and fixed my BLB 100% and i could not be happier because i now have an A+ Screen for only £200!...if you want to go the perfect pixel route as i did i would only use excellentcastle at this point in time as we have found that he has constantly been supplying pixel perfect monitors if you buy his ultimate pixel perfect..i know what i would do its perfect pixel for me every time and fix the BLB...i hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: i would contact excellentcastle first before you buy his ultimate pixel perfect monitor as it would seem he has had some trouble acquiring them which means you may have to wait a week or so...but if you want a perfect pixel monitor it would be well worth the week or so wait!..as many of our members i am sure will tell you that have bought his ultimate pixel perfect monitor from him! ...As they have been more than pleased with there monitors!


Hi Lawson 67,

I decided to go with the ultimate pixel perfect Qinx from excellentcastle like you said. I emailed square trade my Ebayitem ID to make sure if they support that item. If I get back a positive reply, I will add the warranty as well.

Thanks

Will update after I receive it !


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> I took every step you listed (I only have one DVI port) so I am looking to try a different cable.
> I've no idea about timings I don't even know what they're about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used your CRU settings


Those timings should help


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Would my 750 watt Seasonic Gold G-series G be powerful enough to power for 2x Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce or Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC does anyone one know?


If I can do one with my Capstone 550w, yours will be fine. Look up the psu calc.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> If I can do one with my Capstone 550w, yours will be fine. Look up the psu calc.


Nice can you please post me a link to the psu calc as i dont know where to find it









I would like 2x of these cards


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Nice can you please post me a link to the psu calc as i dont know where to find it


http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine

I came up with 593w with 2 290s. No OC though.

To be honest, GPU resellers/manufactures over rate what the GPU/system actually needs. I really think there is some kickback from the PSU makers that give GPU makers $ for higher recommendations.

Look at this vid.

System specs.

Intel 4670K
Asus Maximus VI Gene
Asus ROG Front Base
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB 2400MHz
Corsair H100i
Asus GTX 780 Ti DirectCU II
240GB Corsair Neutron SSD
1TB Western Digital Green
*Corsair RM450
*





http://www.overclock3d.net/articles/power_supply/how_many_watts_do_you_actually_need/1


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Would my 750 watt Seasonic Gold G-series G be powerful enough to power for 2x Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce or Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC does anyone one know?


I don't know much, but here is what I think I know.. Close.. If you were to watercool them, they will actually draw less power, so that's another bonus.

I picked this up on THG"
Quote:


> For a system using two Radeon R9 290 graphics cards in 2-way CrossFireX mode a minimum of a 850 Watt or greater system power supply is recommended. The power supply should also have a maximum combined +12 Volt continuous current rating of 65 Amps or greater and have at least two 6-pin and two 8-pin PCI Express supplementary power connectors.
> 
> Total Power Supply Wattage is NOT the crucial factor in power supply selection!!! Sufficient Total Combined Continuous Power/Current Available on the +12V Rail(s) rated at 45°C - 50°C ambient temperature, is the most critical factor.
> 
> Overclocking of the CPU and/or GPU(s) may require an additional increase to the maximum combined +12 Volt continuous current ratings, recommended above, to meet the increase in power required for the overclock. The additional amount required will depend on the magnitude of the overclock being attempted.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Would my 750 watt Seasonic Gold G-series G be powerful enough to power for 2x Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce or Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC does anyone one know?


You can rebuild your rig on newegg and the site will display the power it needs. Should be enough though.

Edit: Nvm people already replied.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> I don't know much, but here is what I think I know.. Close.. If you were to watercool them, they will actually draw less power, so that's another bonus.
> 
> I picked this up on THG"


Nice one Sean thanks for that mate that will certainly help


----------



## Face2Face

Does anyone have an issue with the monitor hurting your eyes at 96Hz? It also appears to be slightly blurry... 60Hz doesn't hurt my eyes, but still looks a little blurry.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Nice one Sean thanks for that mate that will certainly help


lawson, look at the video I posted. I still believe your PSU would be *perfectly fine*.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> lawson, look at the video I posted. I still believe your PSU would be *perfectly fine*.


Ok sure but Where do i find the video? i can not see a link to it ..lol...

Edit : i am dumb its ok i did not scroll up when i asked that see it now thanks bluedevil lol


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok sure but Where do i find the video? i can not see a link to it ..lol


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Nice can you please post me a link to the psu calc as i dont know where to find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like 2x of these cards


I got 2 of them, combined with a Platinum rated 860W: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0gysmxbb2d323jy/IMG_20140303_150701.jpg

Two of them in stock OC's can pull 600W. What is your CPU? 'Worst' case senario is that you have a i7 4770k OC'd @ 4.7 GHz. That won't pull anymore than around 100W. As other peripherals pull from the 3.3V and 5V rail, you don't have to worry about them. SO, your rig can pull about 700W on the 12V rail. Remember, this is the worst case senario, which is unrealistic in daily use and gaming. Your PSU will most likely do the trick.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


That is a great you tube Bluedevil and after watching that i do belive i will be fine with x2 now thanks for posting that mate


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> I got 2 of them, combined with a Platinum rated 860W: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0gysmxbb2d323jy/IMG_20140303_150701.jpg


Thats a nice looking rig you got there Jirachi be intrested to see what wattage that would be pulling if you had the plug wattage meter...BTW i bet thats a beast for gaming with x2 of those...i want them now lol


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thats a nice looking rig you got there Jirachi be intrested to see what wattage that would be pulling if you had the plug wattage meter...BTW i bet thats a beast for gaming with x2 of those...i want them now lol


Thanks. I do have the LINK hardware and software which I received with my PSU. I'll play some Battlefield 4 and monitor the consumption.

Jup, the performance is stunning. On top of that these cards scale very well in crossfireX. An extra 90-100% performance boost when adding a second R9 290 is no exception!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> I got 2 of them, combined with a Platinum rated 860W: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0gysmxbb2d323jy/IMG_20140303_150701.jpg
> 
> Two of them in stock OC's can pull 600W. What is your CPU? 'Worst' case senario is that you have a i7 4770k OC'd @ 4.7 GHz. That won't pull anymore than around 100W. As other peripherals pull from the 3.3V and 5V rail, you don't have to worry about them. SO, your rig can pull about 700W on the 12V rail. Remember, this is the worst case senario, which is unrealistic in daily use and gaming. Your PSU will most likely do the trick.


Yes i have a I7-4770k which i overclocked to 4.5ghz using a 1.27 vcore so do you think i would be ok?....also Jirachi what is the catch here why is one nearly £100 cheaper than the other one...i can not see the difference?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290X-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-GV-/221377293802?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item338b1d6dea


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i have a I7-4770k which i overclocked to 4.5ghz using a 1.27 vcore so do you think i would be ok?....also Jirachi what is the catch here why is one nearly £100 cheaper than the other one...i can not see the difference?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290X-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-GV-/221377293802?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item338b1d6dea


Yea, you'll be fine. Can you check in CPU-Z what TDB it is showing?

In the first link it is an R9 290 and in the second link an R9 290X. The R9 290 came out later. The R9 290X is slightly better (according to benchmarks only 3-5 FPS in BF4) than the R9 290, but defenitely not worth the extra costs.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> In the first link it is a R9 290 and in the second link a R9 290X. The R9 290 came out later. The R9 290X is slightly better (according to benchmarks only 3-5 FPS in BF4) than the R9 290, but defenitely not worth the extra costs.


Great thanks Jirachi i am VERY tempted to buy x2 R9 290 now this one below if you don't think it worth spending the extra on the other 290x cards...do you have the 290x?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Great thanks Jirachi i am VERY tempted to buy x2 R9 290 now this one below if you don't think it worth spending the extra on the other 290x cards...do you have the 290x?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985


I agree. 290 is better than the 290x value wise.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I agree. 290 is better than the 290x value wise.


I think X2 Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 OC WindForce 4096MB will look great slotted into my Gigabyte Z87x motherboard


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Great thanks Jirachi i am VERY tempted to buy x2 R9 290 now this one below if you don't think it worth spending the extra on the other 290x cards...do you have the 290x?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985


Any non-reference card is a great choice, but the Sapphire -and Gigabyte cards outperform the others by a bit









I do have two R9 290's.


----------



## TFchris

My qnix qx2710 just came in. Got it from bigclothcraft, paid for perfect pixel ($329.99) and that is exactly what I got. zero dead pixels, absolutely no light bleed (was surprised), and oc's to a max of 108Hz (although I run it at 100Hz because I prefer more "even like" numbers lol)

Not too bad.

I used EVGA pixel clock overclocking program. Does anybody suggest anything else?


----------



## TFchris

Oh it's a matte display too*


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I agree. 290 is better than the 290x value wise.


Which one you thinking of getting bluedevil Sapphire or gigabyte..i think i am going for the gigabyte x2 of these as long as i am sure my PSU can run them both









http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFchris*
> 
> My qnix qx2710 just came in. Got it from bigclothcraft, paid for perfect pixel ($329.99) and that is exactly what I got. zero dead pixels, absolutely no light bleed (was surprised), and oc's to a max of 108Hz (although I run it at 100Hz because I prefer more "even like" numbers lol)
> 
> Not too bad.
> 
> I used EVGA pixel clock overclocking program. Does anybody suggest anything else?


Nice one chris glad your please with your pixel perfect and welcome to the club mate









In the OP are the tool we use such as CRU and toastyx patches


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFchris*
> 
> Oh it's a matte display too*


Idle my rig uses about 80W and pull about 90W from the wall. In Battllefield 4 the peak is only 450W from the wall.


----------



## angelnieves

I had bought the x-star pixel perfect edition back in October, and now already have 1 dead pixel, and a mark that looks like a slash inside display. Its very very small and can only see when a white background is being displayed, but its still annoying. Was going to buy a second one of these but Im not so sure about that anymore.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Idle my rig uses about 80W and pull about 90W from the wall. In Battllefield 4 the peak is only 450W from the wall.


That sounds like i should be ok with my Seasonic 750 watt G-series Gold PSU then as you and bluedevil have suggested


----------



## thrgk

i setup my 120hz in ccc, but in bf4 with my 7970s, i barely hold 100FPS, any idea why? in bf4 its set as 120hz 1440p


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *angelnieves*
> 
> I had bought the x-star pixel perfect edition back in October, and now already have 1 dead pixel, and a mark that looks like a slash inside display. Its very very small and can only see when a white background is being displayed, but its still annoying. Was going to buy a second one of these but Im not so sure about that anymore.


Which seller did you buy it from and was it Ultimate perfect pixel?..also are you sure its a dead pixel and not a stuck pixel which can sometime be fixed running a youtube Stuck pixel film...also can you post the a picture of this mark you have one the screen..thanks


----------



## thrgk

also, with quad 7970s, can i even OC my qnix to 120hz? since I cant really do double crossfire bridges. I have 3 bridges hooked up to crossfire the 4 cards now.


----------



## angelnieves

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Which seller did you buy it from and was it Ultimate perfect pixel?..also are you sure its a dead pixel and not a stuck pixel which can sometime be fixed running a youtube Stuck pixel film...also can you post the a picture of this mark you have one the screen..thanks


I had purchased from dream-seller. It was just the pixel perfect edition


(This is the "slash" looking defect. I do not know how or when it happened, but did not arrive like this)


(This is the dead, or stuck pixel. I tried fixing it with the jscreenfix and it did not work)


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Which one you thinking of getting bluedevil Sapphire or gigabyte..i think i am going for the gigabyte x2 of these as long as i am sure my PSU can run them both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985


the gigabyte.


----------



## dav2287

What would I need if I want to use one of these as an external display for a laptop with HDMI out?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dav2287*
> 
> What would I need if I want to use one of these as an external display for a laptop with HDMI out?


Are you looking to get it to display full resolution? And are you looking to display it at full refresh rate (60hz, not 120hz)?

At the moment, there's no way to guarantee that you can do both, at the same time.


----------



## dav2287

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Are you looking to get it to display full resolution? And are you looking to display it at full refresh rate (60hz, not 120hz)?
> 
> At the moment, there's no way to guarantee that you can do both, at the same time.


I would mostly care about getting full resolution.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dav2287*
> 
> I would mostly care about getting full resolution.


In that case, your options are generally limited to getting an HDMI -> DVI adapter of some sort, then setting a custom resolution of 2560x1440, and a refresh rate of 30hz. Your laptop may not support this on stock Intel graphics. If you have an AMD or Nvidia card, you should be able to do this.


----------



## dav2287

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> In that case, your options are generally limited to getting an HDMI -> DVI adapter of some sort, then setting a custom resolution of 2560x1440, and a refresh rate of 30hz. Your laptop may not support this on stock Intel graphics. If you have an AMD or Nvidia card, you should be able to do this.


Sounds good! Thank you for the quick and helpful replies!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *angelnieves*
> 
> I had purchased from dream-seller. It was just the pixel perfect edition
> 
> 
> (This is the "slash" looking defect. I do not know how or when it happened, but did not arrive like this)
> 
> 
> (This is the dead, or stuck pixel. I tried fixing it with the jscreenfix and it did not work)


Wow that does look like a cut however unless you have had the monitor apart and put a cut in a diffuser layer i can not see how that would suddenly appear...strange indeed only other thing it looks like is a hair between diffuser layers... all you can do is message the seller and show him a photo of that....however after 2 weeks of you having the monitor YOU normally have to pay return shipping..

Edit: i am not asking you to do this however i know what i would do...i would rip that monitor apart and check what that is in or on the diffuser layer..you would know for sure then...and you might have to do this anyhow or face the return shipping fee or live with it


----------



## angelnieves

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Wow that does look like a cut however unless you have had the monitor apart and put a cut in a diffuser layer i can not see how that would suddenly appear...strange indeed only other thing it looks like is a hair between diffuser layers... all you can do is message the seller and show him a photo of that....however after 2 weeks of you having the monitor YOU normally have to pay return shipping..
> 
> Edit: i am not asking you to do this however i know what i would do...i would rip that monitor apart and check what that is in or on the diffuser layer..you would know for sure then...and you might have to do this anyhow or face the return shipping fee or live with it


Im pretty careful with tinkering and taking things aparts, maybe I will try this tonight. However, is the other picture a dead/stuck pixel?


----------



## Peedge

Hey guys, I have a question.

I have a mint QNIX QX2710 and I used the CRU to set it at 110hz.
There were no issues, Nvidia control panel recognized the 110hz as native and all was good.

Until one day, Nvidia control panel no longer recognizeS the 110hz as native and I since have had to apply it as a "custom resolution".

so I guess I have 2 questions:

1) Any ideas on how to get it to recognize the 110hz as native?
2) Is there an difference having it set as a custom resolution vs native?

Thanks


----------



## Naxxy

For who wanted to know about the seller ta-korea.global here is a quick update:

my QNIX has been finally shipped should receive it in 4/5 business days ill update as soon as i get it but so far comunication has been very good. He even wrote me that he lowered the value to 100$ and marked it as a gift to try and avoid italian import taxes that are pretty high.


----------



## lawson67

It hard to say weather its dead or stuck to be honest...i have seen some look black like that and suddenly come back to life...as for taking the monitor apart the link below has some posts of mine on that page describing how to fix BLB by straightening the metal frame that the panel is sat in..you will have to take the frame off to get to the diffuser layers..however be very careful when messing with the diffuser layers once the frame is off they can move and if turned upright can simply slide off the screen....read carefully my posts on this page and they will help you should you decide to go ahead and strip it down....Also bear in mind striping it down could achieve nothing if you cannot fix whatever that is in or on the diffuser layers!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peedge*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question.
> 
> I have a mint QNIX QX2710 and I used the CRU to set it at 110hz.
> There were no issues, Nvidia control panel recognized the 110hz as native and all was good.
> 
> Until one day, Nvidia control panel no longer recognizeS the 110hz as native and I since have had to apply it as a "custom resolution".
> 
> so I guess I have 2 questions:
> 
> 1) Any ideas on how to get it to recognize the 110hz as native?
> 2) Is there an difference having it set as a custom resolution vs native?
> 
> Thanks


Do you have Nvidia experience installed as this can conflict with CRU EDID overrides?....i do not use CRU to overclock with nvidia i use a monitor driver and use Nvida custom resolutions to overclock this way i have NO conflicts and i can still use Nvidia experience.

Edit: you can import the blank-extension.dat into CRU when you create your custom resolutions with CRU which should enable you to keep Nvidia experience installed without the EDID override conflicts...however this is not a perfect fix and sometimes windows will still NOT see your custom resolution using this method..this is why you are better off using the monitor driver method with nvidia unless you uninstall Nvidia experience.


----------



## Peedge

Do you mean GeForce Experience? Or Nvidia Inspector?

I have both installed, GeForce experience the whole time and Nvidia Inspector only after using CRU.

So, there is no downside to using a custom resolution vs native?


----------



## Peedge

Can you elaborate on "monitor driver" for me please?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peedge*
> 
> Can you elaborate on "monitor driver" for me please?


IF you are using CRU you need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience as it conflicts with CRU EDID overrides..however do as i say below!.... for you we are NOT going to use CRU anymore!

1: Go to Nvidia control panel and delete your custom resolutions

2:now open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...

3: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 4:

4: : download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

5: If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

6: Go to Nvidia control panel and back to custom resolutions and make your 120hz using manual timings and using the exact same timings that i have in my Nvidia control panel from the picture below..when you was using CRU for your 120hz resolution we need to get it closer to the 450mhz limit...using my 120hz timings you will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz and you will have a much stronger signal....if you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use these timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution

7: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience...have fun!











qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## Peedge

Wow, thanks a lot.
I will try this tonight and let you know how it goes!

Thanks again.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peedge*
> 
> Wow, thanks a lot.
> I will try this tonight and let you know how it goes!
> 
> Thanks again.


If you follow that gudie it will work perfectly with NO conflicts what so ever


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Would my 750 watt Seasonic Gold G-series G be powerful enough to power for 2x Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce or Sapphire R9 290 Tri X OC does anyone one know?


I run GTX 770's in SLI on a 700 watt. The 290 does use slightly more, but I would say 750 would be fine.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I run GTX 770's in SLI on a 700 watt. The 290 does use slightly more, but I would say 750 would be fine.


Nice thanks Watagump


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> For who wanted to know about the seller ta-korea.global here is a quick update:
> 
> my QNIX has been finally shipped should receive it in 4/5 business days ill update as soon as i get it but so far comunication has been very good. He even wrote me that he lowered the value to 100$ and marked it as a gift to try and avoid italian import taxes that are pretty high.


Thanks for the update


----------



## Watagump

Not sure how many are aware of the bench info at Anandtech, so here is the 290 vs the 770, power usage down on the page a bit. Great to enter in cards and see how they compare.

http://anandtech.com/bench/product/1068?vs=1037


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Not sure how many are aware of the bench info at Anandtech, so here is the 290 vs the 770, power usage down on the page a bit. Great to enter in cards and see how they compare.
> 
> http://anandtech.com/bench/product/1068?vs=1037


Wow quality link thanks


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Wow quality link thanks


You're welcome, let the rep begin.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You're welcome, let the rep begin.


Hahaha rep-ed i have had 4 reps infact 5 today so you can have one of mine







lol


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You're welcome, let the rep begin.


i have one problem will this fit into my Zalman z11 case hmm ..looks very long might have to get the tape measure out

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You're welcome, let the rep begin.


Yep they will fit fine in the case...i just hope its got the right Vram on them Jirachi was saying that i needed on it


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hahaha rep-ed i have had 4 reps infact 5 today so you can have one of mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


I am not going to stop till I have it all.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am not going to stop till I have it all.


Wow 770 SLI beats R9 290x CF by a fair amount....surprised

http://anandtech.com/bench/product/1064?vs=1075


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Wow 770 SLI beats R9 290x CF by a fair amount....surprised
> 
> http://anandtech.com/bench/product/1064?vs=1075


I am not brand loyal, but I didn't jump back to Nvidia after 7 years of ATI for no reason.








What doresnt make sense is a single 290x is faster than the 770, so it very well could be a driver issue, SLI vs CF tend to have some weird results.


----------



## Jirachi

Earlier in this topic one guy pointed out he has white stripes in the left-under corner on a black backround. I got that too, but then on the top: https://www.dropbox.com/s/z3o06bdjf3c97uu/IMG_20140305_233102.jpg

There is also some bleeding at that place. Would fixing the bleeding fix the stripes as well, or are the stripes a defect of the panel?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am not brand loyal, but I didn't jump back to Nvidia after 7 years of ATI for no reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What doresnt make sense is a single 290x is faster than the 770, so it very well could be a driver issue, SLI vs CF tend to have some weird results.


I think i am going to get 2 new GTX 770 asus OC or gigabyte wiindforce...which one do you have?.. and will does having over 2gb of ram make a difference on my GTX660 SLI i have never seen them using anywhere near 2GB in games


----------



## PhilWrir

Just a reminder from the TOS:
Quote:


> You may not give rep to someone for the purposes of artificially inflating their rep or for any other reason other than to reward a post that benefits the forum and its members


Please reference the following post for proper use of the +Rep System

http://www.overclock.net/t/239915/reminder-the-rep-system-its-proper-usage


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> Earlier in this topic one guy pointed out he has white stripes in the left-under corner on a black backround. I got that too, but then on the top: https://www.dropbox.com/s/z3o06bdjf3c97uu/IMG_20140305_233102.jpg
> 
> There is also some bleeding at that place. Would fixing the bleeding fix the stripes as well, or are the stripes a defect of the panel?


Fixing BLB will hide MANY defects as the screen is working the way it is intended with the light behind the screen as opposed to being infront of the screen...that's the only problem with these monitors...and i believe the main reason they are A- grade from bent metal frames coursing BLB that is NOT acceptable to the branded manufacturers..using my guide you can fix it 100%...mine was very bad when i got it...its perfect now









Before


After Fix


Guide is a few posts on this page http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I think i am going to get 2 new GTX 770 asus OC or gigabyte wiindforce...which one do you have?.. and will does having over 2gb of ram make a difference on my GTX660 SLI i have never seen them using anywhere near 2GB in games


I have the Asus. I had 3gb on my 7950, so the memory doesn't seem to matter, at least for me.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhilWrir*
> 
> Just a reminder from the TOS:
> Please reference the following post for proper use of the +Rep System
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/239915/reminder-the-rep-system-its-proper-usage


Hi don't think anyone has done this to my knowledge?..i have received 5-6 reps today for helping other members with there problems i have NOT asked for them i have just randomly been given them...i hope this helps


----------



## Cyalume

I'm still trying to figure out whether my lack of light on the edges of my screen is caused by the same problems as those that cause backlight bleed, and if the same fix will work.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi don't think anyone has done this to my knowledge?..i have received 5-6 reps today for helping other members with there problems i have NOT asked for them i have just randomly been given them...i hope this helps


Probably just making sure people know, since I did actually ask for rep. The link was helpful.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Probably just making sure people know, since I did actually ask for rep. The link was helpful.


Probably...anyhow shall i get 2x 770 OC asus or....what do you have?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Probably...anyhow shall i get 2x 770 OC asus or....what do you have?


Already told you above, Asus. They are running stock also. I just didn't want to spend all the time trying to find a stable overclock for another 6-7 FPS. I am VERY picky about stability. I had some crashes running 1200/1800, stock speeds not one crash yet, knock on wood.


----------



## Watagump

The GB and MSI are both $329 right now, mine was $10 more at Frys, only allowed 1 rebate, which made 1 also $329.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007709%20600451260&IsNodeId=1&name=GeForce%20GTX%20770


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Already told you above, Asus. They are running stock also. I just didn't want to spend all the time trying to find a stable overclock for another 6-7 FPS. I am VERY picky about stability. I had some crashes running 1200/1800, stock speeds not one crash yet, knock on wood.


Oh yes sorry i didn't see it...however take a look at this baby...better than the ASUS me thinks









http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Oh yes sorry i didn't see it...however take a look at this baby...better than the ASUS me thinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gigabyte-Radeon-R9-290-OC-WindForce-4096MB-GDDR5-PCI-Express-Graphics-Card-/390789585285?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5afcdfd985


Well take it for what its worth, the reviews for both the MSI and GB are higher than the Asus on newegg. Granted its not a 770, but my last upgrade to the 7950, I had 2 GB cards that I returned. One was crashing, the other wouldn't overclock at all. Got a Sapphire and I was good to go. When I had 2 6850 for xfire, they were both Asus also.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well take it for what its worth, the reviews for both the MSI and GB are higher than the Asus on newegg. Granted its not a 770, but my last upgrade to the 7950, I had 2 GB cards that I returned. One was crashing, the other wouldn't overclock at all. Got a Sapphire and I was good to go. When I had 2 6850 for xfire, they were both Asus also.


I would sooner stay with Nvidia to be honest and my rig is set up for Nvidia with drivers and my Monitor driver


----------



## Watagump

Man, I hate not knowing if this is a actual glossy or not, I know someone here bought one and says it is. But yet the price for the one at Amazon is in line with the ebay ones that are matte. The same guy also sells a tempered glass.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAKEE1E/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0PX32F35XXD21XS82V69&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I would sooner stay with Nvidia to be honest and my rig is set up for Nvidia with drivers and my Monitor driver


I am also back to team green for now, so I don't blame you. I was just giving you info from experience, not saying go ATI or anything. Also patching the ATI drivers didn't play well with videos online.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I think i am going to get 2 new GTX 770 asus OC or gigabyte wiindforce...which one do you have?.. and will does having over 2gb of ram make a difference on my GTX660 SLI i have never seen them using anywhere near 2GB in games


I have a 770 from gigabyte the oc version ofc and its awesome pushes pretty high got it clocked at 1330 and memory at 7650 and its damn stable even at high loads never goes above 70°C . Was thinking of getting a second one and put them in sli but i think ill grab a 780ti or wait for the new 880 i've never been a fan of sli tbh.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> I have a 770 from gigabyte the oc version ofc and its awesome pushes pretty high got it clocked at 1330 and memory at 7650 and its damn stable even at high loads never goes above 70°C . Was thinking of getting a second one and put them in sli but i think ill grab a 780ti or wait for the new 880 i've never been a fan of sli tbh.


It was a MUST for me to go SLI, since I never have before.







We will see if this drives me to insanity.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

So I'm getting pretty sick of my monitor/video cards.

basically I have 2x 290x in Xfire, and the qnix can run at 110hz. Problem is if I overclock the cards at all I can't run at 110hz anymore I get crazy distortion, No distortion at all at stock clocks.

if I run at 60hz I can do 1150/1400 on both my cards.

It really annoys me, If I'm gonna try to run at 110hz in everything I need to be able to overclock.

I remember other people had this issue too.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It was a MUST for me to go SLI, since I never have before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will see if this drives me to insanity.


Well i play mainly League of Legends, Rift, Heroes of Might and Magic6 and occasionaly BF4 and have no issues at 1440p with any of them ofc i can max out all except BF4 wich bothers me a bit but still i think i prefer one fastest single card then sliing to slower ones


----------



## ambulanceonfire

I've been searching a lot but haven't found if anyone has fixed back light banding. I see some have been advised to do the back light bleed fix but no replies. My monitor is currently experiencing the same issue and don't know if I should bother taking it apart or fight to get it replaced.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It was a MUST for me to go SLI, since I never have before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will see if this drives me to insanity.


Ok i did it i have just bought 2 of these baby's









http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00CY5GP08/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_C


----------



## yasamoka

There is nowhere else on the internet that shows 770 SLi beating out 290X CF unless they are reference models placed in quiet mode and allowed to clock down heavily.

290X CF has been consistently shown since release to beat out 780 SLi and Titan SLi even at resolutions below 4K. At 4K, even 780Ti SLi mostly does not stand a chance and you can look for these and see for yourself.

Tri and Quad scaling favor CrossFire, too. Check DGLee's benchmarks.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ambulanceonfire*
> 
> I've been searching a lot but haven't found if anyone has fixed back light banding. I see some have been advised to do the back light bleed fix but no replies. My monitor is currently experiencing the same issue and don't know if I should bother taking it apart or fight to get it replaced.


How long have you had your monitor and do you only see the banding where the BLB is?


----------



## ambulanceonfire

I've had the monitor for about 24 hrs now. I cannot specify if the banding is happening exactly where the back lights are but it only shows in dark or black shades.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok i did it i have just bought 2 of these baby's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00CY5GP08/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_C


Nice, do not bother with the Asus GPU Tweak, if you are going to overclock, either Afterburner or Precision X.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> There is nowhere else on the internet that shows 770 SLi beating out 290X CF unless they are reference models placed in quiet mode and allowed to clock down heavily.
> 
> 290X CF has been consistently shown since release to beat out 780 SLi and Titan SLi even at resolutions below 4K. At 4K, even 780Ti SLi mostly does not stand a chance and you can look for these and see for yourself.
> 
> Tri and Quad scaling favor CrossFire, too. Check DGLee's benchmarks.


In all honesty, the Anandtech bench did have my guessing as to how a single card could be faster yet lose in CF. It should win, its a higher card.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ambulanceonfire*
> 
> I've had the monitor for about 24 hrs now. I cannot specify if the banding is happening exactly where the back lights are but it only shows in dark or black shades.


Send a picture to the seller best thing you can do right now if it happening at 60hz and decide weather you want to ask to RMA it if you think its that bad and tell him ...see what he says


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> There is nowhere else on the internet that shows 770 SLi beating out 290X CF unless they are reference models placed in quiet mode and allowed to clock down heavily.
> 
> 290X CF has been consistently shown since release to beat out 780 SLi and Titan SLi even at resolutions below 4K. At 4K, even 780Ti SLi mostly does not stand a chance and you can look for these and see for yourself.
> 
> Tri and Quad scaling favor CrossFire, too. Check DGLee's benchmarks.


Because of you i have cancelled my order!







lol..i am now having a rethink


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Because of you i have cancelled my order!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol..i am now having a rethink


Thinking about ATI and spending $1200 at least for 290x CF?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Thinking about ATI and spending $1200 at least for 290x CF?


I dont know what to do right now TBH ...i need to have a good think about it all


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Thinking about ATI and spending $1200 at least for 290x CF?


I have to say my 2x GTX 660 are great in SLI i can run tomb raider in ultra with Vsync at 120hz 120fps


----------



## bluedevil

Lawson, read this.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1471854/microsoft-directx12-announced


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Lawson, read this.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1471854/microsoft-directx12-announced


Wow thanks for that!...could well be all i needed to know for now think i might wait for a DirectX12 card...thanks for the link Bluedevil


----------



## TFchris

Hmm, my monitor doesn't seem to be as bright as I wanted. is there something I could do to increase brightness?


----------



## TFchris

nvm, read the OP post


----------



## renji1337

Going to run another 96hz calibration tomorrow


----------



## TFchris

actually, anybody know how to add light boost to my qnix? I tried calibrating the RBG but it's already at max. It just doesn't seem as bright as my old glossy catleap.

It feels as if there is a slight yellowish tint to it.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFchris*
> 
> actually, anybody know how to add light boost to my qnix? I tried calibrating the RBG but it's already at max. It just doesn't seem as bright as my old glossy catleap.
> 
> It feels as if there is a slight yellowish tint to it.


Have you overclocked it? ...if you have the Gamma will shift higher which will make the screen look darker...applying an ICC profile will correct the higher gamma shift...you are more than welcome to use my ICC profiles which are below and i calibrated at a brightness of 200 c/dm which for 120hz is about 18 clicks up from a dark screen and for the 96hz 17 clicks up
The slight yellowish tint could be BLB

Edit: these monitors also go up to 300 c/dm mine a little higher than that so yours should not appear dark?

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


----------



## TFchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Have you overclocked it? ...if you have the Gamma will shift higher which will make the screen look darker...applying an ICC profile will correct the higher gamma shift...you are more than welcome to use my ICC profiles which are below and i calibrated at a brightness of 200 c/dm which for 120 hx is about 18 clicks up from a dark screen and for the 96hz 17 clicks up
> The slight yellowish tint could be BLB
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 13k .zip file


Yes, I OC'd it to 96Hz as well, although it can go higher.

And thanks, I'll try it out.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFchris*
> 
> Yes, I OC'd it to 96Hz as well, although it can go higher.
> 
> And thanks, I'll try it out.


I recommend using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and take care of the ICC profiles you can download that here,

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325


----------



## CrackaG

I know I've heard of this issue, and a possible fix before, but I can't seem to find it.

Some flash (youtube, vimeo, etc.) videos and items are not displaying. All I see are black screens where the video is playing, including full screen. Any ideas?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrackaG*
> 
> I know I've heard of this issue, and a possible fix before, but I can't seem to find it.
> 
> Some flash (youtube, vimeo, etc.) videos and items are not displaying. All I see are black screens where the video is playing, including full screen. Any ideas?


try turning off hardware acceleration of video.


----------



## Jestin

Is this a new version? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Evolutionll-DP-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-Virtual-4K-120Hz-Monitor-U-/321342430960?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad1805ef0


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> Is this a new version? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Evolutionll-DP-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-Virtual-4K-120Hz-Monitor-U-/321342430960?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad1805ef0


I don't understand what virtual 4k is.... it's a 2560x1440 monitor.


----------



## TFchris

After spending the last few hours searching for flaws on my new monitor, I finally found one.

It's a darkened yellowish spot on the right side of the panel. It's barely noticeable but it ticks me off lol. Is there any way to fix this?


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Because of you i have cancelled my order!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol..i am now having a rethink


770 SLi wouldnt't beat CF 290 in no way. The 770 is probably the worst bang for the buck at the moment. The 770 performs similarly to the R9 280X, which is a significant step backwards of the R9 290. I'd suggest you having a look at the specs of the 770 and the R9 290!

You'd probably the best off by buying two R9 290's: either Sapphire or Gigabyte.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't understand what virtual 4k is.... it's a 2560x1440 monitor.


Marketing gimmick.


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't understand what virtual 4k is.... it's a 2560x1440 monitor.


No, 4k is not a 25560x1440 monitor. This is a QHD monitor (or 1440p monitor). A common resolution of 4K is 3840x2160.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jirachi*
> 
> No, 4k is not a 25560x1440 monitor. This is a QHD monitor (or 1440p monitor). A common resolution of 4K is 3840x2160.


Not sure what you are trying to say... I stated the qnix is a 2560x1440 monitor (1440p).....


----------



## Jirachi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Not sure what you are trying to say... I stated the qnix is a 2560x1440 monitor (1440p).....


I guess I misunderstood your post. I thought you were trying to say virtual 4k is the same as 1440p.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Hello, first time posting here but have been reading though this thread from time to time. My current 1200p TN that I have had for over 4 years is nearing the end of it's life and am noticing flickering artifact lines after being on for more then 6 hours and have to power it down for 10-20 minutes then everything returns to normal. Also has an annoying power on issue where I have to wait a few minutes with a blank screen and artifacts but everything is fine when turn it off then on again. In short, it's time for something new

I am just so torn over the decision of getting one of these monitors or going with something like the Yamakasi DS270 or even going to 1600P with the Yamakasi Sparta 301. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-301-SPARTA-30-S-IPS-2560x1600-DVI-D-PC-Computer-Monitor-/141161911922?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20dde7d672 I am not really finding much information about the 301 but I hear it is similar to the older 300 model and have heard mixed feelings about that one with IPS glow being one of the biggest.

I know about the side affects with the overclocking when it comes to gamma shift and my questions would be how is PLS different from the Sparta 301's S-IPS, Input lag or the DS270 AH-IPS, the benefits of Tempered glass over matte but I remember somewhere that there could be a glossy screen under the glass but not sure if that has been confirmed or denied.

Any help you all can give me on this would be great. Just so torn. I have been always been drawn more to higher res but the old CRT game player in me has me drawn to these monitors. I would be very happy just to get this to 96Hz


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFchris*
> 
> After spending the last few hours searching for flaws on my new monitor, I finally found one.
> 
> It's a darkened yellowish spot on the right side of the panel. It's barely noticeable but it ticks me off lol. Is there any way to fix this?


That looks like a stain/mark on one of the diffuser layers and if it that small i would not mess with it..If you want to get to the diffuser layers you will need to strip the monitor down and remove the metal frame that the panel sits in which not a hard job really if you take your time i have a few post explaining how to strip down the monitor to fix BLB by straightening the metal frame which you will have to remove to get to the diffuser layers...

However be warned messing with the diffuser layers you can permanently mark them!.. with your just your finger marks or if you attempt to wipe one with a cloth trying to remove a stain or a mark that you can see...you can also mark them or make the mark/stain you already have look worse...also dust or a hair could fall in between the layers while you are attempting to inspect/remove the original mark/stain thus creating more problems...these layer are placed into the monitor in the factory in a dust free environment and i would not advise messing with your diffuser layers or attempting clean a mark/stain from one unless absolutely necessary!.

However it can be done because i have successfully done do so in the past...But in this case i would advise to leave it alone and live with it or contact the seller if you have just received your monitor and you feel you can not live with it!.. you should take a photo and show it to the seller and ask him to replace the monitor!.. and you could also consider opening a case with Ebay...however if it is that small and you do not have very bad BLB meaning you would not have to strip the metal frame from the monitor in the first place i would personally live with it..

Having said all of this and if you DO decide you want to keep this monitor you should still show the seller this picture and tell him you want a replacement...this will be the very last thing that he would want to do and i feel sure he will offer you some cash back!...i hope this helps


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't understand what virtual 4k is.... it's a 2560x1440 monitor.


The listing is complete and utter BS. 120hz? Virtual 4k? Multi input? Red-cap? Alarm bells are ringing. AVOID THIS MONITOR AT ALL COSTS. It's nothing more than your typical multi input Qnix from the seller with the worst reputation on overclock.net.

The only interesting thing about that listing is that it is said to be an AH-VA/A-HVA panel... Interesting.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Hello, first time posting here but have been reading though this thread from time to time. My current 1200p TN that I have had for over 4 years is nearing the end of it's life and am noticing flickering artifact lines after being on for more then 6 hours and have to power it down for 10-20 minutes then everything returns to normal. Also has an annoying power on issue where I have to wait a few minutes with a blank screen and artifacts but everything is fine when turn it off then on again. In short, it's time for something new
> 
> I am just so torn over the decision of getting one of these monitors or going with something like the Yamakasi DS270 or even going to 1600P with the Yamakasi Sparta 301. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-301-SPARTA-30-S-IPS-2560x1600-DVI-D-PC-Computer-Monitor-/141161911922?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20dde7d672 I am not really finding much information about the 301 but I hear it is similar to the older 300 model and have heard mixed feelings about that one with IPS glow being one of the biggest.
> 
> I know about the side affects with the overclocking when it comes to gamma shift and my questions would be how is PLS different from the Sparta 301's S-IPS, Input lag or the DS270 AH-IPS, the benefits of Tempered glass over matte but I remember somewhere that there could be a glossy screen under the glass but not sure if that has been confirmed or denied.
> 
> Any help you all can give me on this would be great. Just so torn. I have been always been drawn more to higher res but the old CRT game player in me has me drawn to these monitors. I would be very happy just to get this to 96Hz


1. The older 30" panels are still using CCFL backlighting. They introduce two problems. The first is that they run hot, power hungry and throwing off a lot of heat. The second is that they are wide gamut monitors, giving widely oversaturated colours. I would avoid them as they are older, inferior technology and generally not suited to gamers.

Convening glossy, most panels are no longer glossy, even the glossy panels are just a piece of glossy glass on top of a mate panel.

The ds270 doesnt overclock, so if you want to overclock you'll need a qnix or xstar.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Hello, first time posting here but have been reading though this thread from time to time. My current 1200p TN that I have had for over 4 years is nearing the end of it's life and am noticing flickering artifact lines after being on for more then 6 hours and have to power it down for 10-20 minutes then everything returns to normal. Also has an annoying power on issue where I have to wait a few minutes with a blank screen and artifacts but everything is fine when turn it off then on again. In short, it's time for something new
> 
> I am just so torn over the decision of getting one of these monitors or going with something like the Yamakasi DS270 or even going to 1600P with the Yamakasi Sparta 301. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-301-SPARTA-30-S-IPS-2560x1600-DVI-D-PC-Computer-Monitor-/141161911922?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20dde7d672 I am not really finding much information about the 301 but I hear it is similar to the older 300 model and have heard mixed feelings about that one with IPS glow being one of the biggest.
> 
> I know about the side affects with the overclocking when it comes to gamma shift and my questions would be how is PLS different from the Sparta 301's S-IPS, Input lag or the DS270 AH-IPS, the benefits of Tempered glass over matte but I remember somewhere that there could be a glossy screen under the glass but not sure if that has been confirmed or denied.
> 
> Any help you all can give me on this would be great. Just so torn. I have been always been drawn more to higher res but the old CRT game player in me has me drawn to these monitors. I would be very happy just to get this to 96Hz


FYI If your are thinking of buying a true Glossy as opposed to tempered glass which is glass over the top of a matte screen and have been considering an overclockable Qnix here is a link to one..however they are considerably more than matte screen models or tempered glass,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pixel-Perfect-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Glossy-PC-Monitor-/330938393993?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4d0d772589

Also is the Monex M27QSM which is also according to NCX is a true Glossy monitor and shares the same PLS panel as the Qnix!...itis cheap and has better build quality then the Qnix but it does NOT overclock...however i believe if you could source a Qnix PCB Board i feel sure it would overclock and you would have yourself a cheap true glossy overclockable monitor









Here is NCX Unfinished review of the Monex M27QSM

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14903-monex-m27qsm-review-glossy-2560x1440-pls.html

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glossy-Perfect-Pixel-27-MONEX-M27QSM-2560x1440-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/141171324507?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item20de77765b


----------



## LeGoLaZz

Which graphic card should i use to run 2 QNIX-Monitors? My GT610 wont work with 2 at the same time


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeGoLaZz*
> 
> Which graphic card should i use to run 2 QNIX-Monitors? My GT610 wont work with 2 at the same time


The best you can afford, that's a lot of resolution, it needs something beasty.


----------



## LeGoLaZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The best you can afford, that's a lot of resolution, it needs something beasty.


Its not for games, only for office-apps etc. Im asking, cuz i dont know which one can handle 2 monitors at the same time







Something like GT 630-640?


----------



## Jestin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The listing is complete and utter BS. 120hz? Virtual 4k? Multi input? Red-cap? Alarm bells are ringing. AVOID THIS MONITOR AT ALL COSTS. It's nothing more than your typical multi input Qnix from the seller with the worst reputation on overclock.net.
> 
> The only interesting thing about that listing is that it is said to be an AH-VA/A-HVA panel... Interesting.
> 
> More sellers now, search Qnix newly listed on Ebay.
> Maybe new panels coming from this company: http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1385551858
> I'm worried about the contrast and i don't believe120hz overclock but would like to


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> More sellers now, search Qnix newly listed on Ebay.
> Maybe new panels coming from this company: http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1385551858
> I'm worried about the contrast and i don't believe120hz overclock but would like to


It's a 2560x1440 panel though, not a QFHD/4K panel. Can't be one of the new AUO AHVA 4K panels. And since no multi input monitor has been shown to overclock to 120hz, I don't see how this one suddenly can.


----------



## Jestin

This listing from accessorieswhole has specifications in english for the AH-VA panel. Also shows how to aply virtual 4k resolution.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-Matte-27-10bit-2560x1440-Monitor-/131132939608?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e8821dd58

Is this the way to go now?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> This listing from accessorieswhole has specifications in english for the AH-VA panel.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-Matte-27-10bit-2560x1440-Monitor-/131132939608?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e8821dd58
> 
> Is this the way to go now?


Would be interesting to see if Qnix is using an AHVA panel now though; wonder what difference that would make.

But it definitely can't run native 4K, and isn't any different from downsampling (some Qnix users _already_ do this). According to AW's listing, the "virtual 4K" (marketing idiocy) is limited to 30hz anyways. Someone'll have to get one and run a gamut of tests on it - if they're willing to risk it, that is.

I would, actually, if someone wants to buy my old (overclockable) Qnix. I don't need/can't use another 27" QHD moniotor as it is...

Edit: So there *is* an AUO AVHA 1440p panel, so it's quite possible that Qnix is switching to AVHA. Contrast is lower than PLS/IPS, colour gamut is larger than PLS/IPS... Good thing is that there isn't a PWM backlight (as in the marketing). Bad thing is in the branded monitors that use the panel so far, no overclocking (but again, multi inputs... who knows once we get one in a single-input monitor?)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Wow 770 SLI beats R9 290x CF by a fair amount....surprised
> 
> http://anandtech.com/bench/product/1064?vs=1075


@Lawson ... good thing you cancelled your 770 SLI order if you were swayed by the above linked article









No Way 770SLI beats 290X CF ... Yasamoka was right ... and I believe you and watagump just "Mis-Read" the Anandtech results, because they had reversed the "order" (and color highlights) from the previous single card comparison ... take a closer look









http://anandtech.com/bench/product/1064?vs=1075


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @Lawson ... good thing you cancelled your 770 SLI order if you were swayed by the above linked article
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Way 770SLI beats 290X CF ... Yasamoka was right ... and I believe you and watagump just "Mis-Read" the Anandtech results, because they had reversed the "order" (and color highlights) from the previous single card comparison ... take a closer look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://anandtech.com/bench/product/1064?vs=1075


Yes you are right and i am more than happy that Yasamoka jumped in and saved the day


----------



## Strickt

Honestly at 2560x1440 those links show me that CF290x's get you an average of 12.22 frames more than the SLI 770's HOWEVER your also paying $600 more for those 12.22 frames... that comes out to around $49 per frame. The value just inst there in my eyes.


----------



## nickj2014

Finally got my "pixel perfect" qnix from ta-korea, after UK customs held it hostage for over a week. Had to pay £21 VAT and £13.50 to parcelforce for their silly fee.

One dead white pixel near the top and about 3 dead black ones in a line near the bottom, not too noticeable.

Not surprised it wasn't pixel perfect as it was the same price as any other qnix.

Backlight bleed is very minimal, a bit in the bottom left and top right but not really noticeable at all.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a stand that can be height adjusted very low? Where I was planning on putting the monitor won't work as it's literally just an inch too tall... so if theres a good stand I could buy that can be put very low it could fit









edit: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=pd_sim_ce_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WX369GAD4BCX1PGZ03C looks it could work?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @Lawson ... good thing you cancelled your 770 SLI order if you were swayed by the above linked article
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Way 770SLI beats 290X CF ... Yasamoka was right ... and I believe you and watagump just "Mis-Read" the Anandtech results, because they had reversed the "order" (and color highlights) from the previous single card comparison ... take a closer look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://anandtech.com/bench/product/1064?vs=1075


I went back and looked at the bench posted for the CF vs SLI, we definitely misread it. In my mind it didn't make sense the single 290x beating the 770 but losing in CF. Yet I didn't put 2 and 2 together. But like I also said, it should win, its a way more expensive setup.


----------



## bluedevil

So what really is the main differences between the Qnix and the Xstar? All I can find is the price difference.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So what really is the main differences between the Qnix and the Xstar? All I can find is the price difference.


The text on the bezel is the only difference.


----------



## nickj2014

Just played around with overclocking, at 120hz I get green flickering lines near the bottom (with lawsons timings).

110hz is stable and doesn't seem to have had any noticeable effect on the colours, I downloaded lawsons colour profiles while I was waiting but it looks like I won't need them!

Maybe another cable will let me hit the magical 120hz...


----------



## itcharzherp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No, because HDMI to DVI adapters are single-link. This monitor requires dual-link DVI.


I understand that it requires dual-link DVI to run at best performance









What i'm wondering is, would it work for the DVI - HDMI cable at normal performance ?

I want this solution temporary until I buy the basic gaming computer with of course GPU that support DVI ..

I read this " .. The biggest problem with DVI is that it doesn't support HDCP encryption by default, so if your hardware only includes DVI ports, you may not be able to playback full HD Blu-rays and other HD content." at
http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/32524/whats-the-difference-between-hdmi-and-dvi-which-is-better/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickj2014*
> 
> Just played around with overclocking, at 120hz I get green flickering lines near the bottom (with lawsons timings).
> 
> 110hz is stable and doesn't seem to have had any noticeable effect on the colours, I downloaded lawsons colour profiles while I was waiting but it looks like I won't need them!
> 
> Maybe another cable will let me hit the magical 120hz...


is lawsons a program for color enhancement of profile files?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itcharzherp*
> 
> I understand that it requires dual-link DVI to run at best performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What i'm wondering is, would it work for the DVI - HDMI cable at normal performance ?


It won't run at normal performance via HDMI -> DVI. You may be able to run a custom resolution at reduced refresh rate (eg, [email protected]).
Quote:


> I want this solution temporary until I buy the basic gaming computer with of course GPU that support DVI ..
> 
> I read this " .. The biggest problem with DVI is that it doesn't support HDCP encryption by default, so if your hardware only includes DVI ports, you may not be able to playback full HD Blu-rays and other HD content." at
> http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/32524/whats-the-difference-between-hdmi-and-dvi-which-is-better/


Not sure why your like says that, but DVI definitely does support HDCP.


----------



## angelnieves

Anyone know a method on how to unscrew vesa mount from this monitor? Mine seems to be stuck, as the part where the screws torque into, seem to just be torquing with the screw rather than against it, causing each screw to continuously spin..


----------



## KarlTheKatfish

So I OC my Q-nix to 120hz, seemed fine, no visual problems, but my GPU, the fan speeds increased, and it started generating lots of heat. This resulted in it working for a few mins then the display is no longer detected and I have to restart my PC. When I try to play any kind of game, the increase in heat is more rapid and my whole PC crashes.
I have just recently upgraded my GPU, on my old one the best I could get was about 96Hz, but with my new one, I pushed it to 130 Hz before I wimped out, but yet with my old one, when I OC'd the monitor, it never started generating more heat, and it didn't crash when i tried to play a game...
I'm confused, I don't get how the refresh rate of my monitor would cause this problem?
Any suggestions on how to fix this?

My rig,
MSI 970A-G43 ATX mobo
AMD FX-8350
8GB of Corsair ram
Old GPU: GTX 560 Ti
New GPU: GTX 780
Corsair CX 750M


----------



## d3vour3r

GPUs work harder to produce a high refesh rate. that why the heating up. maybe do some work in your case with cable management and get some better fans to exhaust the heat better.


----------



## KarlTheKatfish

well i get that, but BenQ and Asus make those 120Hz gaming monitors, and if everyone's GPUs overheat while just in windows, they wouldn't be selling them


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarlTheKatfish*
> 
> So I OC my Q-nix to 120hz, seemed fine, no visual problems, but my GPU, the fan speeds increased, and it started generating lots of heat. This resulted in it working for a few mins then the display is no longer detected and I have to restart my PC. When I try to play any kind of game, the increase in heat is more rapid and my whole PC crashes.
> I have just recently upgraded my GPU, on my old one the best I could get was about 96Hz, but with my new one, I pushed it to 130 Hz before I wimped out, but yet with my old one, when I OC'd the monitor, it never started generating more heat, and it didn't crash when i tried to play a game...
> I'm confused, I don't get how the refresh rate of my monitor would cause this problem?
> Any suggestions on how to fix this?
> 
> My rig,
> MSI 970A-G43 ATX mobo
> AMD FX-8350
> 8GB of Corsair ram
> Old GPU: GTX 560 Ti
> New GPU: GTX 780
> Corsair CX 750M


GTX 780 is a hotter card than a GTX 560TI. The 560 Ti is at a 170W part, but the GTX 780 is 250W TDP.


----------



## KarlTheKatfish

I just tried to play a game at 60 Hz and it is still crashing, i think my card is defective, maybe the thermal paste wasn't applied properly or something.... idk i don't think its the refreshrate though


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarlTheKatfish*
> 
> I just tried to play a game at 60 Hz and it is still crashing, i think my card is defective, maybe the thermal paste wasn't applied properly or something.... idk i don't think its the refreshrate though


Check your GPU temperatures?


----------



## KarlTheKatfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Check your GPU temperatures?


idle, it is about 60 ish degrees C, under light load we are talking above 90, i have never had a card run this hot, something is wrong.


----------



## jameyscott

Just bought my QNIX from accessorieswhole. Can't wait to play around with it.


----------



## bcham

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Just bought my QNIX from accessorieswhole. Can't wait to play around with it.


very fast delivery with accessorieswhole and low customs .mine was dispatched Monday arrive wed. no blb no dead pixels perfect monitor but ordered the new monex model.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcham*
> 
> false
> very fast delivery with accessorieswhole and low customs .mine was dispatched Monday arrive wed. no blb no dead pixels perfect monitor but ordered the new monex model.


Arnt the Monex confirmed not to be able to overclcock?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Arnt the Monex confirmed not to be able to overclcock?


They do not overclock, correct.


----------



## bcham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> They do not overclock, correct.


i have not tried but i can not get over 60 fps with my gtx670 any way so not bothered about overclocking.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The only interesting thing about that listing is that it is said to be an AH-VA/A-HVA panel... Interesting.
> 1. The older 30" panels are still using CCFL backlighting. They introduce two problems. The first is that they run hot, power hungry and throwing off a lot of heat. The second is that they are wide gamut monitors, giving widely oversaturated colours. I would avoid them as they are older, inferior technology and generally not suited to gamers.
> 
> Convening glossy, most panels are no longer glossy, even the glossy panels are just a piece of glossy glass on top of a mate panel.
> 
> The ds270 doesnt overclock, so if you want to overclock you'll need a qnix or xstar.


I did not notice the part about the 301 having the CCFL back lighting.... Dat power comsumption. I have had issues with other monitors in the past overheating so I would like to avoid that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> FYI If your are thinking of buying a true Glossy as opposed to tempered glass which is glass over the top of a matte screen and have been considering an overclockable Qnix here is a link to one..however they are considerably more than matte screen models or tempered glass,
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pixel-Perfect-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Glossy-PC-Monitor-/330938393993?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4d0d772589
> 
> Also is the Monex M27QSM which is also according to NCX is a true Glossy monitor and shares the same PLS panel as the Qnix!...itis cheap and has better build quality then the Qnix but it does NOT overclock...however i believe if you could source a Qnix PCB Board i feel sure it would overclock and you would have yourself a cheap true glossy overclockable monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is NCX Unfinished review of the Monex M27QSM
> 
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14903-monex-m27qsm-review-glossy-2560x1440-pls.html
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glossy-Perfect-Pixel-27-MONEX-M27QSM-2560x1440-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/141171324507?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item20de77765b


I have been doing some more research into the whole tempered glass/glossy thing and as much as a glossy panel looks great, I decided that it is not for me since I have a lot of external reflections in the evening where i keep my PC and not to mention the possible internal reflection between the glass and the panel. I guess i will be going with one of these panels. I am going to be ordering one of those Monoprice cables since I need a 6ft cable since a 3ft one is not an option for me and I hope this does not impact overclocking too much. As for the stock stand, I am going to wait and see on that before replacing it with a different one and I have a glass desk so the ones that clamp down is not an option. I hope to order one within the next week to so.

Thanks again everyone


----------



## dante`afk

any idea why the windows color profile would always go to default even though i set it to something else? i have to remove the custom one then and re-add it every time.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> any idea why the windows color profile would always go to default even though i set it to something else? i have to remove the custom one then and re-add it every time.


What are you using to set and apply your ICC profile?

Make your custom profile the default in windows color management... and use color Color Sustainer to apply your custom ICC profile

Download Color Sustainer here:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarlTheKatfish*
> 
> idle, it is about 60 ish degrees C, under light load we are talking above 90, i have never had a card run this hot, something is wrong.


Something does sound wrong. Is the air being exhausted out of the back of the card warm or hot?


----------



## hawke3757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Just bought my QNIX from accessorieswhole. Can't wait to play around with it.


I ordered one too yesterday from accessorieswhole, and I glad I did cause they just raised the price today from $289 to $319.









Anyway, I need some inputs from fellow Qnix/X-star owners,

Is this a solid stand?

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?ab3=b&utm_expid=58369800-11.R-enhtUGRrSdHz5vzpVS2g.1&c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2&utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F

How about this cable for OC?
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?ab3=b&utm_expid=58369800-11.R-enhtUGRrSdHz5vzpVS2g.1&c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monoprice.com%2FSearch%2FIndex%3Fkeyword%3Ddual%2Blink%2Bdvi

Thanks.


----------



## KarlTheKatfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Something does sound wrong. Is the air being exhausted out of the back of the card warm or hot?


Yeah, hot hair is exhausting out the back, the the metal housing (it's a reference card) feels hot enough to cook an egg. At first I was thinking about taking off the Heat sync and applying Thermal paste, but i think that i will just send it back. If I were to screw it up, I would have a $512 brick laying around, and I would rather wait for shipping then wast that much money.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarlTheKatfish*
> 
> Yeah, hot hair is exhausting out the back, the the metal housing (it's a reference card) feels hot enough to cook an egg. At first I was thinking about taking off the Heat sync and applying Thermal paste, but i think that i will just send it back. If I were to screw it up, I would have a $512 brick laying around, and I would rather wait for shipping then wast that much money.


Sounds like you have either heavily overclocked the card or the case is inadequate and is feeding the card hot air. If the heatsink itself is hot, it definitely isn't the thermal paste (thermal paste issues would have the heat sink cold), just seems that either the card is not downclocking correctly (this would indicate the high idle temps) but doesn't explain the high 3D temps.

Or there's something wrong with the card... but I can't think of a problem with video cards that would cause your symptoms...


----------



## DBCoopa

Could be a mine virus?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> Could be a mine virus?


Interesting theory! I did encounter one on my boss' computer. But that should show up as even higher temps on idle, I would think?


----------



## darxider

^ download GPU-Z and check your GPU's activity. if something is using it, it'll show up there.


----------



## KarlTheKatfish

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Sounds like you have either heavily overclocked the card or the case is inadequate and is feeding the card hot air. If the heatsink itself is hot, it definitely isn't the thermal paste (thermal paste issues would have the heat sink cold), just seems that either the card is not downclocking correctly (this would indicate the high idle temps) but doesn't explain the high 3D temps.
> 
> Or there's something wrong with the card... but I can't think of a problem with video cards that would cause your symptoms...


I just got the card, I haven't messed the OC yet. But when I first pulled it out of the packaging, It was doing something that wouldn't let me boot into windows, I had to flash my MOBO and update all my drivers, it was a nightmare, and as soon as I had it working, I was like yes i didn't buy a DOA card, but then it had heating problems.... as for airflow, its not great, but i have 2 intake fans and 3 exhaust fans, I need a new case, its an old one I got from a guy after I built him a PC. It still shouldn't overheat the way it is, I can still send it back untill april, so im going to see if there is anyway i can fix it myself today, and if its still not working, get my money back. Here is my next question though, I have more money lying around, and if it get my money back, should i get a 780 Ti? I can afford it, but I don't know if it would be worth the extra cash, my friend has it, he likes it, but i don't really think it its worth like +$200 for like 10% more performance.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarlTheKatfish*
> 
> I
> I just got the card, I haven't messed the OC yet. But when I first pulled it out of the packaging, It was doing something that wouldn't let me boot into windows, I had to flash my MOBO and update all my drivers, it was a nightmare, and as soon as I had it working, I was like yes i didn't buy a DOA card, but then it had heating problems.... as for airflow, its not great, but i have 2 intake fans and 3 exhaust fans, I need a new case, its an old one I got from a guy after I built him a PC. It still shouldn't overheat the way it is, I can still send it back untill april, so im going to see if there is anyway i can fix it myself today, and if its still not working, get my money back. Here is my next question though, I have more money lying around, and if it get my money back, should i get a 780 Ti? I can afford it, but I don't know if it would be worth the extra cash, my friend has it, he likes it, but i don't really think it its worth like +$200 for like 10% more performance.


Hm, that does sound weird. Send it back then.

On the 780Ti front, I wouldn't get it. Halo cards are halo cards, so there's a premium for them. Personally wouldn't go beyond the GTX 780 right now, but I'm not even looking right now haha! (I run a GTX 680)


----------



## KarlTheKatfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> ^ download GPU-Z and check your GPU's activity. if something is using it, it'll show up there.


yeah, It will hover around 70 degrees C, when the GPU load is under 10%


----------



## KarlTheKatfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Hm, that does sound weird. Send it back then.
> 
> On the 780Ti front, I wouldn't get it. Halo cards are halo cards, so there's a premium for them. Personally wouldn't go beyond the GTX 780 right now, but I'm not even looking right now haha! (I run a GTX 680)


For me its hard to say, because I'm wanting to run games at 2560x1440 I figure games are going to run at much lower fps. If i was just doing 1920x1080, i wouldn't buy more then a 770, and that was what i was going to buy, till i looked at it's performance at 1440p, so I dropped the money on the 780. Still those are all just numbers, i was hoping i could get some time with the 780 to see if it was going to perform the way i was hoping. This is the first and last time I buy a Nvidia card from anyone but EVGA.


----------



## jourelemode

sup fellas, my monitor from ta.korea should be arriving today.

can you guys give me links to everything I need to download and instructions on whatever I need to do to optimize my screen. also what test i should perform to check my monitor for faulty pixels etc. i'm running win. 8.1
I plan to overclock.

thanks a bunch guys!


----------



## rjm0827

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> sup fellas, my monitor from ta.korea should be arriving today.
> 
> can you guys give me links to everything I need to download and instructions on whatever I need to do to optimize my screen. also what test i should perform to check my monitor for faulty pixels etc. i'm running win. 8.1
> I plan to overclock.
> 
> thanks a bunch guys!


If you read the OP it's all there.. For faulty pixels and BLB go here: http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> sup fellas, my monitor from ta.korea should be arriving today.
> 
> can you guys give me links to everything I need to download and instructions on whatever I need to do to optimize my screen. also what test i should perform to check my monitor for faulty pixels etc. i'm running win. 8.1
> I plan to overclock.
> 
> thanks a bunch guys!


Ordering from ta.korea later tonigh/tomorrow. Would be gratefull if could tell me how the process went and the screen quality.

Thanks


----------



## Jixr

hey guys, I'm looking at buying an x-star monitor.

Currently I have a Shimian and a Crossover 1440's

is the x-star overclockable?

Currently my 2 are OC'd to about 68hz ( 10% ) and would like to know if the x-star is able to hit 90+


----------



## kevinsbane

Yes, it is overclockable.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jixr*
> 
> hey guys, I'm looking at buying an x-star monitor.
> 
> Currently I have a Shimian and a Crossover 1440's
> 
> is the x-star overclockable?
> 
> Currently my 2 are OC'd to about 68hz ( 10% ) and would like to know if the x-star is able to hit 90+


The DVI only X-Star and Qnix both overclock. 95%+ chance of hitting 96Hz. 50% chance of hitting 120Hz. Those values are just off the top of my head. The OP has a chart with statistics.


----------



## Jixr

hm... I may jump for it, will for sure need to get another 670 down the road.

I've been out of the korean monitor game for awhile and wasn't sure how the newer versions are.

I don't really need another monitor, and wouldn't know what to do with my extra I would have, but everytime I look at my room mates 120hz monitor I get jelly.


----------



## jourelemode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjm0827*
> 
> If you read the OP it's all there.. For faulty pixels and BLB go here: http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Ordering from ta.korea later tonigh/tomorrow. Would be gratefull if could tell me how the process went and the screen quality.
> 
> Thanks


thanks, ill check the op.

ill let u know chowchilla


----------



## Pascual

My Qnix has developed a weird issue. There seems to be a dotted line of dead pixels on the right side of the screen (I'm not sure if they are dead pixels) that strengthens the more I jack up the refresh rate. This still appears even at 60hz. Here's a picture although it's quite hard to see.

http://i.imgur.com/XlUh5D3.jpg

Anybody know whats up?


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jixr*
> 
> hey guys, I'm looking at buying an x-star monitor.
> 
> Currently I have a Shimian and a Crossover 1440's
> 
> is the x-star overclockable?
> 
> Currently my 2 are OC'd to about 68hz ( 10% ) and would like to know if the x-star is able to hit 90+


I got 2 X-star both hit 120


----------



## jourelemode

i'm looking at the op instructions for the ICC, I see that there are two types.
REC. 709 and sRGB gamma. Which one of those do I use?

thanks


----------



## Moosebox

Can this model be overclocked? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-Panel-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/111103349320?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de469248&_uhb=1&clk_rvr_id=598556803995

Someone said they were successful in overclocking it, I was under the impression that only single dual-link dvi models were overclockable.

Thanks


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moosebox*
> 
> Can this model be overclocked? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MDP-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-Panel-DP-HDMI-DVI-PC-Monitor-/111103349320?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de469248&_uhb=1&clk_rvr_id=598556803995
> 
> Someone said they were successful in overclocking it, I was under the impression that only single dual-link dvi models were overclockable.
> 
> Thanks


There's no proof that any of the multi-input monitors can overclock. A number of people have tried; no one has succeeded.

Stick with the sRGB gammas.


----------



## jourelemode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> There's no proof that any of the multi-input monitors can overclock. A number of people have tried; no one has succeeded.
> 
> Stick with the sRGB gammas.


thanks, sRGB it is.


----------



## mrbojangles43

Hey i have a Qnix qx2710 and a 7870 LE (Tahiti) and i just noticed that when im using any refresh rate above the stock 60hz my gpu will not downclock itself normaly. Instead of downclocking itself to the normal 300MHz GPU Clock and 150MHz Mem clock it sits at 501 gpu clock and 1500 mem clock with 0% activity and power usage while letting the temp climb with nothing going on. When i turn the refresh rate back to 60hz it fixes it immediately. Using CRU of coarse to change refresh rate. Ive herd of other people using Tahiti gpu's having this problem. Anybody have any advise or experience. Makes me wanna go Nvidia XD


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> i'm looking at the op instructions for the ICC, I see that there are two types.
> REC. 709 and sRGB gamma. Which one of those do I use?
> 
> thanks


You do not need to use those at all and the out of the box colours on the X-star and Qinx at 60hz are out standing with my Qnix native white point being a near perfect 6551k....Also you only need to use an ICC profile on these monitors if you overclock as the Gamma shifts up the higher the you raise the Hertz meaning the screen looks Darker....you can use my 96hz and 120hz colours profiles below which i calibrated at 200cd/m which for the 120hz profile is about 18 clicks on the BRI+ button from a black screen and 17 clicks up with the 96hz profile and these will fully correct your gamma at 96hz and 120hz

I recommend using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles...linked below

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## digitalforce

Hey all, finally got my i1 Display Pro. AWESOME! Thanks for the suggestion.

For those with glossy type screens, here is my profile at 110hz. I am happy to create whatever profile you need. Happy to help.

QnixGlossy160110hz.zip 8k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Hey all, finally got my i1 Display Pro. AWESOME! Thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> For those with glossy type screens, here is my profile at 110hz. I am happy to create whatever profile you need. Happy to help.
> 
> QnixGlossy160110hz.zip 8k .zip file


Nice digital and that will make the glossy boys very happy indeed









Edit: I am taking you calibrated that at 160 cd/m?....how many clicks up on the the BRI + button on your Glossy screen all your Glossy peeps will want to know?..i should imagine it would be different on a glossy screen to the matte screen...Also if you want a tip i believe your i1 Display Pro would really make some Awesome profiles using Dispcal if not some what longer calibration times though...but definitely worth it









http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Nice digital and that will make the glossy boys very happy indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I am taking you calibrated that at 160 cd/m?....how many clicks up on the the BRI + button on your Glossy screen all your Glossy peeps will want to know?..i should imagine it would be different on a glossy screen to the matte screen


Yes, 160cdm. 15 clicks up and absolutely gorgeous! I'll be posting more at 96, 100 and 120hz. I am not stable at 120hz but at least enough to get a profile to help everyone one!









I have a Yamakasi Catleap 2B Extreme sitting here in the box as well to test but this Qnix calibrated is going to be VERY tough to beat.


----------



## jourelemode

sup dudes, got my qnix from ta.korea

all I gotta say is I LOVE IT!

ordered the perfect pixel version and it is indeed a perfect pixel.

very minor blb at the bottome left and right corners, but its so minimal I can probably live with it. Most likely I'll try a fix when I have nothing to do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Ordering from ta.korea later tonigh/tomorrow. Would be gratefull if could tell me how the process went and the screen quality.
> 
> Thanks


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> sup dudes, got my qnix from ta.korea
> 
> all I gotta say is I LOVE IT!
> 
> ordered the perfect pixel version and it is indeed a perfect pixel.
> 
> very minor blb at the bottome left and right corners, but its so minimal I can probably live with it. Most likely I'll try a fix when I have nothing to do.


Hey pleased your happy with your pixel perfect and welcome to da club house


----------



## digitalforce

On my previous profile for the glossy version, 15 clicks for bright rooms in day, 13 clicks at night. That 15 clicks at night is like a torch for my eyes


----------



## Darkshowdo

There should be no issue with Running a Qnix in 96hz and another 1080p Monitor in 60hz right?


----------



## phoenixenforcer

hi guys i've been following this thread for a long time and am so happy to have finally purchased my qnix 27". however i'm facing a big problem, now that i've overclocked my monitor to 92 hz, half of the videos on youtube play with a black screen but there's audio, while it works for others. I have exhausted the following: redownloaded flash -disabled hardware acc -tried different browsers -cleared my cache -clocking my monitor back to 60hz but all to no avail.. however when i unpatch and switch it back to 60hz, the videos start working again. games look fantastic on the overclocked monitor but youtube videos.. :/ i've tried reddit and other forums but they were unable to help me, does anyone know what the problem is? I'm using an amd r9 270x btw.. appreciate any help i can get!


----------



## Kold

Quick question.. so I decided to try 120Hz real quick to see if it would work. Almost instantly there were a few faint green distortion type lines on the left middle of the screen. I quickly reverted back to 96 and all is well again. Is that a sign that my monitor can't do 120Hz?


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Quick question.. so I decided to try 120Hz real quick to see if it would work. Almost instantly there were a few faint green distortion type lines on the left middle of the screen. I quickly reverted back to 96 and all is well again. Is that a sign that my monitor can't do 120Hz?


you may have to hit reduce dvi frequency on high resolution displays in ccc. mine does the same at 120hz but for me 96hz runs fine for my liking


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06yfz450ridr*
> 
> you may have to hit reduce dvi frequency on high resolution displays in ccc. mine does the same at 120hz but for me 96hz runs fine for my liking


Is there a way to do this for NVIDIA? I can get 110hz just fine but 120hz starts to get some distortion.


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06yfz450ridr*
> 
> you may have to hit reduce dvi frequency on high resolution displays in ccc. mine does the same at 120hz but for me 96hz runs fine for my liking


I have an nVidia card so I don't know if it was because of that. Either way, I'm satisfied with 96Hz. No need to have that extra 24Hz.


----------



## Strickt

Hey guys, just got my QNIX and am in need of a link to a guide that will help me get it to either 96hz or 120hz.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Hey guys, just got my QNIX and am in need of a link to a guide that will help me get it to either 96hz or 120hz.


Same applies to the Qnix.


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Same applies to the Qnix.


The files he says to download are no longer available from his DL source, is there somewhere else I can get them?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> The files he says to download are no longer available from his DL source, is there somewhere else I can get them?


Try here.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> sup dudes, got my qnix from ta.korea
> 
> all I gotta say is I LOVE IT!
> 
> ordered the perfect pixel version and it is indeed a perfect pixel.
> 
> very minor blb at the bottome left and right corners, but its so minimal I can probably live with it. Most likely I'll try a fix when I have nothing to do.


Thanks fella. Ordered


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Try here.
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


Ya... Those instructions don't work. I installed the patch and tried changing the resolution with the costume resolution changing tool and the new overclocked hz didn't show up like his did. They still said 59hz and 60hz... Any ideas?

its might be because I didnt install whatever monitor drivers he showed but I dont see any links to do so...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Ya... Those instructions don't work. I installed the patch and tried changing the resolution with the costume resolution changing tool and the new overclocked hz didn't show up like his did. They still said 59hz and 60hz... Any ideas?
> 
> its might be because I didnt install whatever monitor drivers he showed but I dont see any links to do so...


I used that to try and overclock my Asus, it worked per the guide and drivers, its just the monitor doesn't overclock. Did you do the reboots?


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I used that to try and overclock my Asus, it worked per the guide and drivers, its just the monitor doesn't overclock. Did you do the reboots?


Ya, Its just not showing any other Hz then the default ones...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Ya, Its just not showing any other Hz then the default ones...


Did you also run the CRU thing?


----------



## Strickt

Ya, seems you can create custom overclock resolutions from Nvidia control panel but Ill wait for an expert to give me an idea how to do it.


----------



## Dominus777

Bought the QNIX 2710 matt screen model from Accesorieswhole (EBAY) £196 - there are no dead pixels & no light bleed & it runs 120Hz without an issue. Just fantastic screen & unbelievable price. Found that you can check the vertical refresh rate if you run SURVIVAL session in Serious Sam 3 (enable VSYNC). May be of use for those wanting to check CRU is actually working


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Ya, seems you can create custom overclock resolutions from Nvidia control panel but Ill wait for an expert to give me an idea how to do it.


Well that should be the issue then. Granted I only did it once and with my 7950, but after doing the settings in that I had the refresh rates etc to try.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kold*
> 
> Quick question.. so I decided to try 120Hz real quick to see if it would work. Almost instantly there were a few faint green distortion type lines on the left middle of the screen. I quickly reverted back to 96 and all is well again. Is that a sign that my monitor can't do 120Hz?


If you did not Optimize your timings for your 120hz resolution profile and just set 120hz you may of being hitting a 480mhz or higher pixel clock!.. This would not help as you would want to be nearer the 450mhz pixel clock limit....try using setting my optimized timings in the picture below which seem to work for most and will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz thus giving a stronger signal...let me know how you get on


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominus777*
> 
> Bought the QNIX 2710 matt screen model from Accesorieswhole (EBAY) £196 - there are no dead pixels & no light bleed & it runs 120Hz without an issue. Just fantastic screen & unbelievable price. Found that you can check the vertical refresh rate if you run SURVIVAL session in Serious Sam 3 (enable VSYNC). May be of use for those wanting to check CRU is actually working


Hey.

Which seller did you buy it from? Am considering it.

Also did you get stung for customs? I've heard that's a risk buying in the UK.

Ta,


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phoenixenforcer*
> 
> hi guys i've been following this thread for a long time and am so happy to have finally purchased my qnix 27". however i'm facing a big problem, now that i've overclocked my monitor to 92 hz, half of the videos on youtube play with a black screen but there's audio, while it works for others. I have exhausted the following: redownloaded flash -disabled hardware acc -tried different browsers -cleared my cache -clocking my monitor back to 60hz but all to no avail.. however when i unpatch and switch it back to 60hz, the videos start working again. games look fantastic on the overclocked monitor but youtube videos.. :/ i've tried reddit and other forums but they were unable to help me, does anyone know what the problem is? I'm using an amd r9 270x btw.. appreciate any help i can get!


I am guessing you are using AMD right?...and have you disable hardware acceleration *in the Flash Player settings*.?


----------



## bcham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Hey.
> 
> Which seller did you buy it from? Am considering it.
> 
> Also did you get stung for customs? I've heard that's a risk buying in the UK.
> 
> Ta,


----------



## bcham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcham*


i had to pay £17 custom fees from seller Accesorieswhole but they mark it down as costing $100. my monex cost me £142 altogether.


----------



## phoenixenforcer

hi bro i am using amd, all of my stuff in chrome://flags is disabled such as gpu accelerated svg filters. is there something im missing here? flash player settings?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

qnix needs to come out with a 60hz 4k PLS glossy model.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Hey.
> 
> Which seller did you buy it from? Am considering it.
> 
> Also did you get stung for customs? I've heard that's a risk buying in the UK.
> 
> Ta,


Hi mate if you want an Ultimate pixel perfect then you would can not go far wrong buying the one in the link below for only £215 as that seller has constantly been delivering Pixel perfect monitors to our members for over 2 months now with minor to no BLB!...Also i live in the UK and i told asked the seller to mark it down at $200 instead of £200 which he did and i only had to pay £30 income duty from H.R.M custom officials...the bill came a week after i took delivery of my monitor from Fed-Ex in the form of a letter and i was more than happy to pay only £30 income duty...

I also bought Ultimate pixel perfect and mine indeed arrived pixel perfect....however i did have some bad BLB which i fixed 100% and have wrote a guide explaining how to fix!....The fixing of my BLB resulted in the fact that i now own a A+ grade panel with NO dead pixels and NO BLB that would normally set me back £800 or more for ONLY £200 and which overclocks to 120hz flawlessly...I call that a result!...I also bought a Square trade 3 year warranty plan for my Qnix...i have also linked Square Trade UK website below...It is worth noting that if you are NOT offered a Square Trade policy at the point of sale you have 60 days to register your new monitor with Square Trade after the purchase date to take advantage of there warranty's!...I hope this helps









Also you asked Dominus777 which seller he bought from>..his seller was called Accesorieswhole

Square trade UK phone number:- 0808 189 1453

Square trade UK website link:- http://www.squaretrade.co.uk/uk-aboutus

Excellentcastle Ultimate perfect pixel monitor £215 below:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831


----------



## lawson67

You said half of the videos on youtube play with a black screen but there's audio...Have you right clicked on a Youtube Video in Chrome or what ever brower you use and *unchecked* in the Flash Player settings Enable Hardware acceleration...as in the picture Below


----------



## bluedevil

Is this a good ebay seller?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phoenixenforcer*
> 
> hi bro i am using amd, all of my stuff in chrome://flags is disabled such as gpu accelerated svg filters. is there something im missing here? flash player settings?


You said half of the videos on youtube play with a black screen but there's audio...Have you right clicked on a Youtube Video in Chrome or what ever brower you use and *unchecked* in the Flash Player settings Enable Hardware acceleration...as in the picture Below


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Is this a good ebay seller?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


Yes dream-seller is one of the better sellers


----------



## Chowchilla

lawson, when you contacted the seller about customs fees did you message them directly or leave it as a note when purchasing?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Ya... Those instructions don't work. I installed the patch and tried changing the resolution with the costume resolution changing tool and the new overclocked hz didn't show up like his did. They still said 59hz and 60hz... Any ideas?
> 
> its might be because I didnt install whatever monitor drivers he showed but I dont see any links to do so...


If you are using SLI you need to use the full patch!..*nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe* .if you are *not* using SLI you do *NOT* need to use the FULL patch...if you plan on NEVER going over 96hz most do *not* need to Patch at all...however if you do not have Sli and you want to go over 96hz you will most likely need to patch using the *nvlddmkm-patcher.exe*

Also CRU uses EDID overrides which conflict with Nvidia Geforce Experience and Also Samsung Magician so your choices are uninstall Nvidia Geforce Experience and if you have installed Samsung Magician!... Or you can import into CRU the blank-extension.dat which is supposed to enable you to use CRU without conflicts with Nvidia Geforce Experience and Samsung Magician...However using the blank-extension.dat is NOT a perfect fix and some conflicts are still seen on occasions with windows still NOT seeing your Custom resolutions!..

So you will be better off following my instructions below and using my monitor Driver file i have linked below!...This monitor driver Method results in NO conflicts at all and windows will always be able to see your custom resolutions!.. Also you are able to keep Nvidia Geforce Experience and Samsung Magician installed...if you do exactly as i say below your Custom profiles will work Flawlessly

1: Go to Nvidia control panel and delete custom resolutions you have made in there...if you have not of course there's no need

2: now open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...

3: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and then go to step 4:

4: : download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

5: If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

6: Go to Nvidia control panel and back to custom resolutions and make your 120hz using manual timings and using the exact same timings that i have in my Nvidia control panel from the picture below..when you was using CRU for your 120hz resolution we need to get it closer to the 450mhz limit...using my 120hz timings you will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz and you will have a much stronger signal....if you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use these timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution

7: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience...have fun!











qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> lawson, when you contacted the seller about customs fees did you message them directly or leave it as a note when purchasing?


I message the seller though Ebay before i bought from him and he was happy to help...they know the score for us guys in the UK...i hope this helps


----------



## phoenixenforcer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You said half of the videos on youtube play with a black screen but there's audio...Have you right clicked on a Youtube Video in Chrome or what ever brower you use and *unchecked* in the Flash Player settings Enable Hardware acceleration...as in the picture Below
> 
> 
> 
> hi bro, ive noticed something. on videos i CAN play i am able to have an option "Settings" when i right click and thus i can disable hardware acceleration as shown below..
> 
> 
> however for videos that have no display but audio, when i right click i can different options, without settings as seen below:
> 
> Any idea why? thanks for your time bro


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I message the seller though Ebay before i bought from him and he was happy to help...they know the score for us guys in the UK...i hope this helps


Thanks, i messaged my seller. i noticed that forum user @Naxxy was taken care of and we bought from the same guy.

Cant wait for my new monitor. Time to say goodbye to my 22" Samsung 226BW


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phoenixenforcer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You said half of the videos on youtube play with a black screen but there's audio...Have you right clicked on a Youtube Video in Chrome or what ever brower you use and *unchecked* in the Flash Player settings Enable Hardware acceleration...as in the picture Below
> 
> 
> 
> hi bro, ive noticed something. on videos i CAN play i am able to have an option "Settings" when i right click and thus i can disable hardware acceleration as shown below..
> 
> 
> however for videos that have no display but audio, when i right click i can different options, without settings as seen below:
> 
> Any idea why? thanks for your time bro
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm strange indeed try reinstalling Flash player and reboot!
Click to expand...


----------



## DBCoopa

Keep up the good work lawson, really helpful guy!


----------



## Dominus777

I got my QNIX 2710 form "accessorieswhole" on ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c3b6ce452

The price has gone up slightly & I did have to pay approx. £45 for customs. However I did not purchase a pixel perfect one but as stated, I had no dead pixels. It arrived in 3 days


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominus777*
> 
> I got my QNIX 2710 form "accessorieswhole" on ebay:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c3b6ce452
> 
> The price has gone up slightly & I did have to pay approx. £45 for customs. However I did not purchase a pixel perfect one but as stated, I had no dead pixels. It arrived in 3 days


Nice Hope you are happy with your Qnix and welcome to the Club


----------



## Jayster

Does anybody know what dreamseller usually marks the value of these monitors at if you have not asked them to mark as gift etc?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayster*
> 
> Does anybody know what dreamseller usually marks the value of these monitors at if you have not asked them to mark as gift etc?


You need to message him and come to an agreement with him...then buy if you are happy with your agreement ...there are No set of marks of value that they offer...and if you just buy and say nothing the paperwork will reflect the price that you paid for it!....

I asked my seller to but on the paperwork $200 instead of £200...i also asked him before this if he would mark it down as a gift...but he told me he could NOT do this as Fed-Ex are now wise to this trick and they will NOT ship it for him should he mark it down as a gift...i hope that help you


----------



## Jayster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You need to message him and come to an agreement with him...then buy if you are happy with your agreement ...there are No set of marks of value that they offer...and if you just buy and say nothing the paperwork will reflect the price that you paid for it!....
> 
> I asked my seller to but on the paperwork $200 instead of £200...i also asked him before this if he would mark it down as a gift...but he told me he could NOT do this as Fed-Ex are now wise to this trick and they will NOT ship it for him should he mark it down as a gift...i hope that help you


Well, its already sitting in France so it looks like I'm about to get taxed out the ass.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Thanks, i messaged my seller. i noticed that forum user @Naxxy was taken care of and we bought from the same guy.
> 
> Cant wait for my new monitor. Time to say goodbye to my 22" Samsung 226BW


Yes the seller was so cool he asked me before shipping how would we want to deal with my country import taxes. He lowered the value to 100 $ and marked it as a gift. Don't know if it will work since my monitor is still at the Korean airport probably waiting for a flight to Italy.

Will keep you updated.


----------



## lawson67

BTW i have just made a custom VESA stand using the top part from the "Monoprice Adjustable Tilting Monitor Desk stand" in the link below but using the legs from another monitor stand i had laying around which means i don't have to have those huge massive metal feet that comes with the Monoprice stand covering my whole desk!









http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003L11FUY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1





Yeah i gotta rip it apart now to get the neck of the original stand out of the monitors case and mount my new stand!...Easy job


----------



## digitalforce

Just as an FYI, I have a sweet color meter now and have a glossy Qnix. I am more than happy to create profiles at 96, 100, 110, 120hz for fellow glossy freaks -- Happy to help!


----------



## lawson67

My new VESA Stand is on and i am well please with the result!...removed the original stand which you have to crack the monitor open to do to remove the swan neck from the original stand as it is screwed inside the case with 2 Philips screws...job done


----------



## jy0un9

Received my Qnix yesterday i couldn't be happier

I took lawson67's advise and got a ultimate pixel perfect from excellentcastle, I made an offer they countered i accepted, eBay also gave me a 10% off code that brought the price down to £210, I asked for it to be marked as £50 which they did.
my custom fee in the uk was £16.

It did take 8 days to arrive but it has no dead/stuck pixels, a bit of blb at the top that i fixed last night (again taking lawson67's advice) by straitening the frame.

Over clocked to 120hz no problem (haven't tried to go higher)

I also got the monoprice stand for £11

So that's £237 all in all for a perfect 1440p 120hz monitor with a new stand

Thanks lawson67

My only problem now is i think i need another 780 to run things at 120fps with high setting


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jy0un9*
> 
> Received my Qnix yesterday i couldn't be happier
> 
> I took lawson67's advise and got a ultimate pixel perfect from excellentcastle, I made an offer they countered i accepted, eBay also gave me a 10% off code that brought the price down to £210, I asked for it to be marked as £50 which they did.
> my custom fee in the uk was £16.
> 
> It did take 8 days to arrive but it has no dead/stuck pixels, a bit of blb at the top that i fixed last night (again taking lawson67's advice) by straitening the frame.
> 
> Over clocked to 120hz no problem (haven't tried to go higher)
> 
> I also got the monoprice stand for £11
> 
> So that's £237 all in all for a perfect 1440p 120hz monitor with a new stand
> 
> Thanks lawson67
> 
> My only problem now is i think i need another 780 to run things at 120fps with high setting


Sell your 780 and just get a single 780 Ti OC -- I have the Gigabyte Tricooler 780 Ti OC GHz Edition and it ROCKS this monitor on games


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jy0un9*
> 
> Received my Qnix yesterday i couldn't be happier
> 
> I took lawson67's advise and got a ultimate pixel perfect from excellentcastle, I made an offer they countered i accepted, eBay also gave me a 10% off code that brought the price down to £210, I asked for it to be marked as £50 which they did.
> my custom fee in the uk was £16.
> 
> It did take 8 days to arrive but it has no dead/stuck pixels, a bit of blb at the top that i fixed last night (again taking lawson67's advice) by straitening the frame.
> 
> Over clocked to 120hz no problem (haven't tried to go higher)
> 
> I also got the monoprice stand for £11
> 
> So that's £237 all in all for a perfect 1440p 120hz monitor with a new stand
> 
> Thanks lawson67
> 
> My only problem now is i think i need another 780 to run things at 120fps with high setting


Hey jy0un9 i am Happy that you are pleased with your new pixel perfect from excellentcastle!.. I am also i am happy that you took the time to to straighten your frame and fix your BLB!.. and what a sense of an achievement you get that is when you fire back up the monitor and see all that BLB gone!.. and you know that you have got an A+ grade pixel perfect panel that would normally cost you up to around £800 for only a little over £200 with a beautiful looking PLS screen running at 120hz!....and also i have to say what a result on the income tax!...well done with that only £16 result mate!....there's only one other thing left to say to you!..and that is welcome to the club


----------



## karkee

Im waiting for mine, hope for no dead pixels and low blb Im ussualy not really Lucky









I am gonna use my monitor desk arm from Vogels to attach it to.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Sell your 780 and just get a single 780 Ti OC -- I have the Gigabyte Tricooler 780 Ti OC GHz Edition and it ROCKS this monitor on games


I am buying 2 of these on Tuesday ...and i cant wait!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4GB-Sapphire-Radeon-R9-290-Tri-X-OC-28nm-6200MHz-GDDR5-GPU-1000MHz-2560-Stre-/360877312243?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5405f6c8f3


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Just as an FYI, I have a sweet color meter now and have a glossy Qnix. I am more than happy to create profiles at 96, 100, 110, 120hz for fellow glossy freaks -- Happy to help!


Long Live GLOSSY SCREEN! ... It amazes me how diverse the personal preferences OR acceptance of a Matte screen is among high resolution monitor aficionados these days ... 1440/120Hz Matte, really?








Can you imagine having an AG coating on your 20" Sony/NEC CRT back in the day? I've disliked Matte finishes ever since ...
AND *[THIS]* fine article explains why









*I certainly don't want to drag up the Glossy vs Matte preference debate here*







...
BUT with the recent lack of availability of the QX2710 in a "Glossy" for $290-$350 range ... I'm curious if the recent wide acceptance of the QX2710 in Matte finish is because maybe the QNIX is now using what is a newer developed semi-gloss Matte like the Samsung 850D pictured below, which according to the article is only in the 15%-18% "Haze" range as opposed to a typical Matte finish at 24%-28% ... and for reference a typical Glossy is in the 8-10% "haze" range (see 2nd pic).

*Better yet does anyone have any pics with the QX2710 Matte in a side by side comparison like below?*
Could even be side by side with a glossy laptop like referenced in the article. I don't want to have to pay the price premium for a Glossy panel if in fact the QX2710's Matte finish is more like the new semi-gloss Matte pictured below which I may have to settle for because of $$$









850D semi-gloss Matte vs typical Matte finish ...


And the glaring OR non-glaring difference when the AG (Matte) coating is removed ...
Referred from this OCN Artisan ... *[HERE]
*



My apologies if this question has already been asked/answered in This thread. I'm slowly working my way through the entire thread, and this is one active thread w/5-6 new pages every day


----------



## TJD269

Hey everyone I've owned my QNIX and it is my best purchase I've made for my setup. I overclocked it to 110 hz because at 120 hz I get artifacts. I tried using my dual link that came with the monitor and the dual link that came with my old ASUS 144 hz monitor and same thing. I use Custom Resolution Tool (CRT) so I can use the refresh rate in games, any way that I could somehow get 120 hz out of my monitor? Maybe in the settings or a better cable? Any thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!

Edit: I love the glossy screen... hate matte. For the guys above me


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TJD269*
> 
> Hey everyone I've owned my QNIX and it is my best purchase I've made for my setup. I overclocked it to 110 hz because at 120 hz I get artifacts. I tried using my dual link that came with the monitor and the dual link that came with my old ASUS 144 hz monitor and same thing. I use Custom Resolution Tool (CRT) so I can use the refresh rate in games, any way that I could somehow get 120 hz out of my monitor? Maybe in the settings or a better cable? Any thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!
> 
> Edit: I love the glossy screen... hate matte. For the guys above me


Are you using optimized timings for your 120hz profile?..If not Try using theses timings as pictured below in CRU for your 120hz...if you just set a 120hz refresh rate in CRU without using optimized timings you will most likely be hitting a pixel clock of 480mhz or more...the nearer you can get to the 450mhz pixel clock limit the better signal you will get and therefore the better chance you will have at hitting 120hz with NO artefacts..my timings seem to work for most give them ago..also may i ask are you using Nvidia or AMD?


----------



## TJD269

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Are you using optimized timings for your 120hz profile?..If not Try using theses timings as pictured below in CRU for your 120hz...if you just set a 120hz refresh rate in CRU without using optimized timings you will most likely be hitting a pixel clock of 480mhz or more...the nearer you can get to the 450mhz pixel clock limit the better signal you will get and therefore the better chance you will have at hitting 120hz with NO artefacts..my timings seem to work for most give them ago..also may i ask are you using Nvidia or AMD?


I am using the stock timings and will mess with them when I get home in an hour. Hopefully I can even get higher than 120 lol... I'm using a EVGA 780 Ti







check my rig next time my friend. Thanks for the help!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Long Live GLOSSY SCREEN! ... It amazes me how diverse the personal preferences OR acceptance of a Matte screen is among high resolution monitor aficionados these days ... 1440/120Hz Matte, really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you imagine having an AG coating on your 20" Sony/NEC CRT back in the day? I've disliked Matte finishes ever since ...
> AND *[THIS]* fine article explains why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I certainly don't want to drag up the Glossy vs Matte preference debate here*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> BUT with the recent lack of availability of the QX2710 in a "Glossy" for $290-$350 range ... I'm curious if the recent wide acceptance of the QX2710 in Matte finish is because maybe the QNIX is now using what is a newer developed semi-gloss Matte like the Samsung 850D pictured below, which according to the article is only in the 15%-18% "Haze" range as opposed to a typical Matte finish at 24%-28% ... and for reference a typical Glossy is in the 8-10% "haze" range (see 2nd pic).
> 
> *Better yet does anyone have any pics with the QX2710 Matte in a side by side comparison like below?*
> Could even be side by side with a glossy laptop like referenced in the article. I don't want to have to pay the price premium for a Glossy panel if in fact the QX2710's Matte finish is more like the new semi-gloss Matte pictured below which I may have to settle for because of $$$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 850D semi-gloss Matte vs typical Matte finish ...
> 
> 
> And the glaring OR non-glaring difference when the AG (Matte) coating is removed ...
> Referred from this OCN Artisan ... *[HERE]
> *
> 
> 
> 
> My apologies if this question has already been asked/answered in This thread. I'm slowly working my way through the entire thread, and this is one active thread w/5-6 new pages every day


My Qnix is semi Gloss in other words ( matte ) and i totally agree with you that a gloss panels look a lot more vibrant with colours etc then a matte panel...however i have 6 Windows in my study and if i had a Glossy screen in here i would be driving myself insane during the day time...so for me a matte is a must and its why i chose one!...having said all of that the Samsung matte is nothing like my old dell monitor that had the LG IPS panel matt coating which was horrible and grainy ..the Samsung semi gloss Matte coating is a huge step forward i believe and the colour are a lot more vibrant on this panel as opposed to my old dell LG IPS panel and even though it is semi gloss it still is great at killing refection's!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TJD269*
> 
> I am using the stock timings and will mess with them when I get home in an hour. Hopefully I can even get higher than 120 lol... I'm using a EVGA 780 Ti
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check my rig next time my friend. Thanks for the help!


Because you are using Nvidia i advise you to use this method below!... and do NOT worry all your Games will see your Custom resalutions and you will not have any conflicts!...so from now on we are *not* going to use CRU anymore and we shall make our custom resolutions in Nvidia control panel instead!

If you are using SLI you need to use the full patch!..nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe .if you are *not* using SLI you do NOT need to use the FULL patch...if you plan on NEVER going over 96hz most do not need to Patch at all...however *if you do not have Sli* and you want to go over 96hz you will most likely need to patch using the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe

Also CRU uses EDID overrides which conflict with Nvidia Geforce Experience and Also Samsung Magician so your choices are uninstall Nvidia Geforce Experience and if you have installed Samsung Magician!... Or you can import into CRU the blank-extension.dat which is supposed to enable you to use CRU without conflicts with Nvidia Geforce Experience and Samsung Magician...However using the blank-extension.dat is NOT a perfect fix and some conflicts are still seen on occasions with windows still NOT seeing your Custom resolutions!..

So you will be better off following my instructions below and using my monitor Driver file i have linked below!...This monitor driver Method results in NO conflicts at all and windows will always be able to see your custom resolutions!.. Also you are able to keep Nvidia Geforce Experience and Samsung Magician installed...if you do exactly as i say below your Custom profiles will work Flawlessly

1: Go to Nvidia control panel and delete custom resolutions you have made in there...if you have not of course there's no need

2: now open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...

3: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and then go to step 4:

4: : download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

5: If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

6: Go to Nvidia control panel and back to custom resolutions and make your 120hz using manual timings and using the exact same timings that i have in my Nvidia control panel from the picture below..when you was using CRU for your 120hz resolution we need to get it closer to the 450mhz limit...using my 120hz timings you will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz and you will have a much stronger signal....if you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use these timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution

7: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience...have fun!









qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## TJD269

Thank you very much! I did do that already prior to that, but thank you for putting that up... That is awesome that you go that far to help a complete stranger







. I plan to use your timings when I get home! I'll let you know asap


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TJD269*
> 
> Hey everyone I've owned my QNIX and it is my best purchase I've made for my setup. I overclocked it to 110 hz because at 120 hz I get artifacts. I tried using my dual link that came with the monitor and the dual link that came with my old ASUS 144 hz monitor and same thing. I use Custom Resolution Tool (CRT) so I can use the refresh rate in games, any way that I could somehow get 120 hz out of my monitor? Maybe in the settings or a better cable? Any thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!
> 
> Edit: I love the glossy screen... hate matte. For the guys above me


But in this post you say you are using CRU?...if you are using CRU with Nvidia you can encounter problems with software conflicts namely Nvidia Geforce experience!..this is why i want you to use the Monitor driver method and make your Custom Resolutions in Nvidia control panel instead of CRU!...this way all your games will still see your Custom Resolutions and you will not have any conflicts now or in the future with driver updates installing Nvidia Geforce experience!


----------



## TJD269

Worked great! Thanks!


----------



## Strickt

I believe Ive mostly figured this out. Here are the timings I'm using (automatic through nvidia) and the ICC profiles Ive tried out (the only 2 from page 1 I could find for 120hz)

The first ICC profile seems very warm, the second very cool.

Anyone want to give me some suggestions to make this thing look the best it can?

Ive also included a picture from a video I took of my backlight bleed. Did I do it right?

FYI, purchased from Newegg non Pixel Perfect. No dead pixels and from what it looks like no backlight bleed (unless I did it wrong).



If anyone doesn't already know how to view the picture in full screen either middle click on it or right click > Open In New Tab


----------



## Watagump

As far as I know it has not been proven that the Qnix is a true glossy for the lower price. The ebay sellers listing glossy for both the Qnix and X-star, are in the $600 to $700 range. Going to Amazon you have a seller listing a glossy type at the low price, but I cant seem to think its tempered glass, like the lower priced glossy on ebay are.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> I believe Ive mostly figured this out. Here are the timings I'm using (automatic through nvidia) and the ICC profiles Ive tried out (the only 2 from page 1 I could find for 120hz)
> 
> The first ICC profile seems very warm, the second very cool.
> 
> Anyone want to give me some suggestions to make this thing look the best it can?
> 
> Ive also included a picture from a video I took of my backlight bleed. Did I do it right?
> 
> FYI, purchased from Newegg non Pixel Perfect. No dead pixels and from what it looks like no backlight bleed (unless I did it wrong).
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone doesn't already know how to view the picture in full screen either middle click on it or right click > Open In New Tab


It appears that you indeed have no back light bleed congratulations...also try my ICC profiles below i made them at 200 cd/m which is for the 120hz ICC profile about 18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI+ button and for 96hz 17 clicks up...also your pixel clock is over 480mhz on your 120hz profile please try to set manual timings only for your 120hz custom resolution as this will help lower your pixel clock nearer to the 450mhz pixel clock limit and give you a stronger signal which will help with screen uniformity and any artefacts you might find that you get at a pixel clock of 483mhz...copy the exact timings i have in my picture below and you should have a very stable 120hz overclock...Oh and welcome to the Club











Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


Edit: Also i recommend using Color Sustainer Download v1.03 made by yasamoka to load and set your ICC profiles and help your ICC profiles be used while gaming!...you can download it here

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TJD269*
> 
> Worked great! Thanks!


Great stuff!


----------



## Strickt

Awesome Lawson, you are the man. I've setup color sustainer and your timings w/ your ICC and it looks FANTASTIC!!! Reps to you good sir!!


----------



## jy0un9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> It appears that you indeed have no back light bleed congratulations...also try my ICC profiles below i made them at 200 cd/m which is for the 120hz ICC profile about 18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI+ button and for 96hz 17 clicks up...also your pixel clock is over 480mhz on your 120hz profile please try to set manual timings only for your 120hz custom resolution as this will help lower your pixel clock nearer to the 450mhz pixel clock limit and give you a stronger signal which will help with screen uniformity and any artefacts you might find that you get at a pixel clock of 483mhz...copy the exact timings i have in my picture below and you should have a very stable 120hz overclock...Oh and welcome to the Club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file
> 
> 
> Edit: Also i recommend using Color Sustainer Download v1.03 made by yasamoka to load and set your ICC profiles and help your ICC profiles be used while gaming!...you can download it here
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html


Thanks again lawson

My (Asus GTX 780 DirectCU II 3GB) is only a few months old do you think i would be better off buying another 780 or selling it off for a new gpu?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jy0un9*
> 
> Thanks again lawson
> 
> My (Asus GTX 780 DirectCU II 3GB) is only a few months old do you think i would be better off buying another 780 or selling it off for a new gpu?


You might not need to do anything. If your FPS is fine with whatever you are doing, just save the money. If you do really need the power, then its a tougher choice. A used 780 in SLI would still be a beast, would most likely be my route.


----------



## jy0un9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You might not need to do anything. If your FPS is fine with whatever you are doing, just save the money. If you do really need the power, then its a tougher choice. A used 780 in SLI would still be a beast, would most likely be my route.


I was happy with my 780 until i moved to 1440p, but i really wasn't checking my fps
now i am noticing i am not reaching much more than 60fps in games, but i am running everything on ultra with vsync off

lawson
I noticed some pages back you said you were getting 120fps in tomb raider, what exactly have you got off because with everything up i am only getting 60 to 70fps
also this is the first time i have built a high end gaming pc. Am i just kidding myself believing i should be able to have good fps with everything on max with my specs.

My specs are
:
Windows 8.1
Cooler Master Haf x Case
Intel i7 3820 (OC 4.6GHz) CPU
Asus GTX 780 DirectCU II 3GB (OC - 1240MHz) GPU
16GB Kingston Hyper x Beast - RAM
Asus Rampage 4 Extreme - MOBO
Corsair H100I In Push Pull - Cooling
Samsung 840 Evo 250GB - SSD
WD 2TB - HDD

PS..
I just got the Corsair K70 Keyboard, my first mechanical keyboard. (feels Great)


----------



## digitalforce

I write articles for a website and I did extensive testing with about 10 cards in the 290x family and 780 Ti family. I applaud AMD for what they did with the 290x but after testing all those cards, my card was the coolest, quiet and highest performing card out of the box:

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4890#ov

Out of the box, my core is 1241mhz in games. I can overclock to 1300 in games. All on air.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jy0un9*
> 
> I was happy with my 780 until i moved to 1440p, but i really wasn't checking my fps
> now i am noticing i am not reaching much more than 60fps in games, but i am running everything on ultra with vsync off
> 
> lawson
> I noticed some pages back you said you were getting 120fps in tomb raider, what exactly have you got off because with everything up i am only getting 60 to 70fps
> also this is the first time i have built a high end gaming pc. Am i just kidding myself believing i should be able to have good fps with everything on max with my specs.
> 
> My specs are
> :
> Windows 8.1
> Cooler Master Haf x Case
> Intel i7 3820 (OC 4.6GHz) CPU
> Asus GTX 780 DirectCU II 3GB (OC - 1240MHz) GPU
> 16GB Kingston Hyper x Beast - RAM
> Asus Rampage 4 Extreme - MOBO
> Corsair H100I In Push Pull - Cooling
> Samsung 840 Evo 250GB - SSD
> WD 2TB - HDD
> 
> PS..
> I just got the Corsair K70 Keyboard, my first mechanical keyboard. (feels Great)


I only have 5 games installed, of course BF4 is the only one I felt needed a little more power. Even then, I got through the game fine on a single 770. I don't play the MP, so that didn't come into my choice. Yes 1440 is going to need more GPU upgrading over lower resolutions. I still say for your setup, a used 780 in SLI will be the best way to go, assuming you have the PSU for another.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jy0un9*
> 
> I was happy with my 780 until i moved to 1440p, but i really wasn't checking my fps
> now i am noticing i am not reaching much more than 60fps in games, but i am running everything on ultra with vsync off
> 
> lawson
> I noticed some pages back you said you were getting 120fps in tomb raider, what exactly have you got off because with everything up i am only getting 60 to 70fps
> also this is the first time i have built a high end gaming pc. Am i just kidding myself believing i should be able to have good fps with everything on max with my specs.
> 
> My specs are
> :
> Windows 8.1
> Cooler Master Haf x Case
> Intel i7 3820 (OC 4.6GHz) CPU
> Asus GTX 780 DirectCU II 3GB (OC - 1240MHz) GPU
> 16GB Kingston Hyper x Beast - RAM
> Asus Rampage 4 Extreme - MOBO
> Corsair H100I In Push Pull - Cooling
> Samsung 840 Evo 250GB - SSD
> WD 2TB - HDD
> 
> PS..
> I just got the Corsair K70 Keyboard, my first mechanical keyboard. (feels Great)


I have 2x Asus GTX660 OC DIRECT CU cards in SLI and i think 2 of them together in SLI are about the same performance or slightly less power than your GTX780?.. so i believe you should hit 120fps at 120hz in tomb raider 4 if you use these settings i have posted below...Also i find i can run most games on high to Ultra settings with my x2 GTX 660 cards...however i am getting X2 4GB Sapphire Radeon R9 290 Tri X OC as in the link i posted below on Tuesday...not because i really need them because my two GTX660 are doing a bloody good job at 1440p really ...But i want them just because i can really lol.. and they will kinda future proof my rig with my I7-4770k overclocked at 4.5ghz for a few years i hope!..you should be fine with one GTX780 however 2 of course would be better









Tomb Raider 4 Settings




The 2 new cards i am buying on Tuesday!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4GB-Sapphire-Radeon-R9-290-Tri-X-OC-28nm-6200MHz-GDDR5-GPU-1000MHz-2560-Stre-/360877312243?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5405f6c8f3


----------



## Watagump

Future proof and computers, 2 things that should never be in the same sentence.


----------



## jy0un9

Im going to test now with those settings see what i get,
what does every one use to test fps (fraps)?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jy0un9*
> 
> Im going to test now with those settings see what i get,
> what does every one use to test fps (fraps)?


I use Playclaw and absolutely love it!...For OSD and recording to screens shots its a great bit of software and has great support!

http://www.playclaw.com/features.php


----------



## angelnieves

Anyone know a method on how to unscrew vesa mount from this monitor? Mine seems to be stuck, as the part where the screws torque into, seem to just be torquing with the screw rather than against it, causing each screw to continuously spin..


----------



## jy0un9

I am getting 120fps at those setting too









Hair Quality, Post Processing and Tessellation. is what i changed.

That OC i just posted for my gpu is unstable im at 1190 now.

what do you think was slowing me down Tessellation?

I cant really see the difference, apart from the hair, maybe i need to play a bit more but my frames just doubled turning them off

Thanks for the advise everyone.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *angelnieves*
> 
> Anyone know a method on how to unscrew vesa mount from this monitor? Mine seems to be stuck, as the part where the screws torque into, seem to just be torquing with the screw rather than against it, causing each screw to continuously spin..


The only way you can get to the VESA mount screw holes is to take the bezel off and remove the panel from the case and remove the PCB board!...the screw holes are there at the very back of the case!...sounds like you might of done your Vesa mount screws up a bit to tight if the threads are just spinning in the case?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I write articles for a website and I did extensive testing with about 10 cards in the 290x family and 780 Ti family. I applaud AMD for what they did with the 290x but after testing all those cards, my card was the coolest, quiet and highest performing card out of the box:
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4890#ov
> 
> Out of the box, my core is 1241mhz in games. I can overclock to 1300 in games. All on air.


Ok seeing that you are the resident expert on Graphics cards which is the better card out of these two to get in your opinion?...cheers









http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4GB-Sapphire-Radeon-R9-290-Tri-X-OC-28nm-6200MHz-GDDR5-GPU-1000MHz-2560-Stre-/360877312243?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5405f6c8f3

OR THIS

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390789585285?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Hl86

My qnix turns on for a second show full lightning and then turns off and the blue diod blinks. I need some expertise to fix it if possible.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok seeing that you are the resident expert on Graphics cards which is the better card out of these two to get in your opinion?...cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4GB-Sapphire-Radeon-R9-290-Tri-X-OC-28nm-6200MHz-GDDR5-GPU-1000MHz-2560-Stre-/360877312243?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5405f6c8f3
> 
> OR THIS
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390789585285?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


The cheaper one, they should both perform the same at the same clock speeds.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok seeing that you are the resident expert on Graphics cards which is the better card out of these two to get in your opinion?...cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4GB-Sapphire-Radeon-R9-290-Tri-X-OC-28nm-6200MHz-GDDR5-GPU-1000MHz-2560-Stre-/360877312243?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5405f6c8f3
> 
> OR THIS
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390789585285?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


A few things --

1 - I use Bandicam for screenshots and video capture. Awesome. www.bandicam.com

2 - That is a lot of money for a 290.. of course, I am in the USA and if I was going to buy any card for around $600-$700, it would be these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125489

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125493


----------



## Karnoffel

Has anyone checked out the Qnix QX2710 DPMulti True10?



It's PWM-Free, can be set to a 4k resolution at 30Hz , uses an AHVA panel which is AUO's version of IPS, can OC to 120Hz with 75Hz as Default according to the manufacturer despite it being multi-input, and is apparently 10-bit although you'll still need a card that supports it.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karnoffel*
> 
> Has anyone checked out the Qnix QX2710 DPMulti True10?
> 
> 
> 
> It's PWM-Free, can be set to a 4k resolution at 30Hz , uses an AHVA panel which is AUO's version of IPS, can OC to 120Hz with 75Hz as Default according to the manufacturer despite it being multi-input, and is apparently 10-bit although you'll still need a card that supports it.


Do you happen to know if r9 290 can support 10-bit? Tho, I wonder if that card can do this res effectively. I could xfire tho. I got my qnix who'd from these guys, would buy from them again.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karnoffel*
> 
> Has anyone checked out the Qnix QX2710 DPMulti True10?
> 
> 
> 
> It's PWM-Free, can be set to a 4k resolution at 30Hz , uses an AHVA panel which is AUO's version of IPS, can OC to 120Hz with 75Hz as Default according to the manufacturer despite it being multi-input, and is apparently 10-bit although you'll still need a card that supports it.


What an interesting monitor! I wonder how they all pulling off 120hz with all the inputs, etc.

I might have to order one of these and test them.. might be hard to resell though if they suck.

EDIT: ARRRGH! Why do they keep making these things matte only? Am I the only one who loves the look of glossy?!


----------



## Watagump

Those new so called virtual 4k's are starting to show up on the forums. Most have the same mindset as me, what the heck is the deal with them. I guess as the guinea pigs get a hold of them we can get our info.


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok seeing that you are the resident expert on Graphics cards which is the better card out of these two to get in your opinion?...cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4GB-Sapphire-Radeon-R9-290-Tri-X-OC-28nm-6200MHz-GDDR5-GPU-1000MHz-2560-Stre-/360877312243?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5405f6c8f3
> 
> OR THIS
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390789585285?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Sapphire Tri-X cards are the coolest card to run (temperature-wise, i mean).


----------



## Spartan F8

Oddly virtual 4K is basically downsampled 4K and the specs say it can only run at 30hz. Well i can downsample the original qnix to [email protected] Interesting.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Oddly virtual 4K is basically downsampled 4K and the specs say it can only run at 30hz. Well i can downsample the original qnix to [email protected] Interesting.


How do you do this on a current Qnix? I have a GTX 780 Ti.

I think the more interesting thing about those new monitors isn't the 4k, it's the fact it's a A-HVA panel instead of all the AH-IPS and PLS panels in all the current Korean 27" monitors.

If they had a glossy model, I would be the guinea pig on it. My glossy Qnix looks so good after calibration, I don't think anything out there can beat it.. especially at 110hz.. /first world problems


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> Sapphire Tri-X cards are the coolest card to run (temperature-wise, i mean).


No the Powercolor PCS+ 290 cannot be beat for temps. (Its a 3 slotter) I have that and a Tri-X. Tri-X is good too. But not as good as the PCS+ at cooling.


----------



## Horo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> It appears that you indeed have no back light bleed congratulations...also try my ICC profiles below i made them at 200 cd/m which is for the 120hz ICC profile about 18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI+ button and for 96hz 17 clicks up...also your pixel clock is over 480mhz on your 120hz profile please try to set manual timings only for your 120hz custom resolution as this will help lower your pixel clock nearer to the 450mhz pixel clock limit and give you a stronger signal which will help with screen uniformity and any artefacts you might find that you get at a pixel clock of 483mhz...copy the exact timings i have in my picture below and you should have a very stable 120hz overclock...Oh and welcome to the Club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file
> 
> 
> Edit: Also i recommend using Color Sustainer Download v1.03 made by yasamoka to load and set your ICC profiles and help your ICC profiles be used while gaming!...you can download it here
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html


Thanks for the ICC and Nv custom resolution timings, could you share your 96hz custom resolutions too please?


----------



## Optimus1978

Guys and girls - I've just ordered a QX2710 from dream-seller on eBay in the UK - but I've not heard anything back, and I've certainly not heard anything about HMRC customs in the UK - can anyone advise what timelines usually are and any customs advice?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pixel-Perfect-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Matt-PC-Monitor-/321141979644?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4ac58db9fc

Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MIGhunter

I have a 290x reference card, how are you guys liking this monitor for gaming? Is it still good if you get one and it sucks at OCing? If you have a 290x, are you able to dual/tripple monitor these? My old samsung 1080p is giving out on me, the pixels are starting to stick and spread like wildfire. I am using a 2nd monitor so I'll atleast be dual monitoring them?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Guys and girls - I've just ordered a QX2710 from dream-seller on eBay in the UK - but I've not heard anything back, and I've certainly not heard anything about HMRC customs in the UK - can anyone advise what timelines usually are and any customs advice?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pixel-Perfect-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Matt-PC-Monitor-/321141979644?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4ac58db9fc
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i ordered mine from a different seller on Saturday and had no response. Guess they like the weekends off just like me.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Guys and girls - I've just ordered a QX2710 from dream-seller on eBay in the UK - but I've not heard anything back, and I've certainly not heard anything about HMRC customs in the UK - can anyone advise what timelines usually are and any customs advice?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pixel-Perfect-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Matt-PC-Monitor-/321141979644?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4ac58db9fc
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Its the weekend and yep they have days off like us...as regards Customs you will have to pay income tax on any electrical goods you import into the UK Its the Law and they want there cut!.. i live in the UK and i asked my seller to mark it down at $200 instead of £200 which he did and i only had to pay £30 income duty from H.R.M custom officials...the bill came a week after i took delivery of my monitor from Fed-Ex in the form of a letter and i was more than happy to pay only £30 income duty...message your seller he will be happy to help...the lower he marks the price down to on his paper work for customs the less you will pay!....

I also bought a Square trade 3 year warranty plan for my Qnix which cost me £41...i have also linked Square Trade UK website below...It is worth noting that if you are NOT offered a Square Trade policy at the point of sale you have 60 days to register your new monitor with Square Trade after the purchase date to take advantage of there warranty's!...I hope this helps









Square trade UK phone number:- 0808 189 1453

Square trade UK website link:- http://www.squaretrade.co.uk/uk-aboutus


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horo*
> 
> Thanks for the ICC and Nv custom resolution timings, could you share your 96hz custom resolutions too please?


Hi you don't need you don't really need any optimized timings for 96hz as your pixel clock is nice and low at 96hz...just make a custom resolution and change 60hz for 96hz with Auto timings and you should be fine


----------



## Optimus1978

Thanks.

I ordered on Thursday, so hopefully I might be able to catch them before they dispatch it, if not I'll learn for next time.

There was a link for a square trade warranty on eBay when I ordered, but wasn't sure how a warranty would work with a manufacturer in Korea?

Anyway I look forward to it arriving and joined on here so I can share my experience - which hopefully will be good.

Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brialee8

I have a question for all you dream-seller buyers. What shipping provider did he use? I was reading a slickdeal thread where it said dream-seller was using FedEX and they were charging a Duty Fee even though its supposed to be free trade between South Korea and the USA.

I am trying to avoid having to pay any unnecessary fees.


----------



## Rockya

Just recieved mine from Red-cap. Bought a normal one without the perfect pixel promise. Zero dead pixels got some backbleed tho. 329 US Dollars and 130 Hz was a nice surprise aswell


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi you don't need you don't really need any optimized timings for 96hz as your pixel clock is nice and low at 96hz...just make a custom resolution and change 60hz for 96hz with Auto timings and you should be fine


Gamma shift is 2.64 at 96Hz. A profile can do wonders even at 96Hz.

Gamma shift is not impacted by pixel clock, but rather by refresh rate. As long as pixel clock is still within control, anyway, didn't test for very high pixel clocks as the monitor is unstable at those clocks.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hey guys, I've now been tempted to buy a Qnix QX2710 by Ghost12 on OCN








My main concern (apart from dead pixels) is the Xbox compatibility.
I know it has to scaler, but surely a DVI-D to HDMI should be able to work? Anyone shed some light on this? I would greatly appreciate it


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> I have a question for all you dream-seller buyers. What shipping provider did he use? I was reading a slickdeal thread where it said dream-seller was using FedEX and they were charging a Duty Fee even though its supposed to be free trade between South Korea and the USA.
> 
> I am trying to avoid having to pay any unnecessary fees.


Dream-seller sent to me through FedEx here in USA and there were no fees. I did receive a letter/invoice from FedEx a week after I received my monitor but the balance was 0.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Gamma shift is 2.64 at 96Hz. A profile can do wonders even at 96Hz.
> 
> Gamma shift is not impacted by pixel clock, but rather by refresh rate. As long as pixel clock is still within control, anyway, didn't test for very high pixel clocks as the monitor is unstable at those clocks.


I think the guy wanted me to share my 96hz timings which i don't use because i am more than happy to run my 96hz resalution with Auto timings...Also i am aware that the gamma shifts higher at 96hz which is why i calibrated an ICC profile for 96hz along with a120hz ICC profiles...and there are a whole bunch of my ICC 120hz and 96hz kicking around on this thread lol


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> How do you do this on a current Qnix? I have a GTX 780 Ti.
> 
> I think the more interesting thing about those new monitors isn't the 4k, it's the fact it's a A-HVA panel instead of all the AH-IPS and PLS panels in all the current Korean 27" monitors.
> 
> If they had a glossy model, I would be the guinea pig on it. My glossy Qnix looks so good after calibration, I don't think anything out there can beat it.. especially at 110hz.. /first world problems


Here are my settings for [email protected] They work for 67hz as well. I also have a 780ti so you should be good.



UPDATE: This is actually an older pic. I have found setting the 4000 to 4150 works a bit better for stability. And setting both front porch and sync width to 1 helps with the blurring effect.


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> No the Powercolor PCS+ 290 cannot be beat for temps. (Its a 3 slotter) I have that and a Tri-X. Tri-X is good too. But not as good as the PCS+ at cooling.


i had this review in mind: http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Powercolor/R9_290X_PCS_Plus/27.html


----------



## digitalforce

The OC versions of the 290 and 290x are great but with their inflated prices, you can spend a bit more and get a 780 Ti OC. After testing almost a dozen cards in the past few months, I stand by my recommendation of a 780 Ti OC Tri-Cooler for big budgets or a MSI 770 OC for lower budgets. The 770 OC ran BF4 like a dream at 1080p...

PS -- Anyone running BF4, turn off MSAA and use LOW on post processing AA. It looks AWESOME and there is no performance hit.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Here are my settings for [email protected] They work for 67hz as well. I also have a 780ti so you should be good.
> 
> 
> 
> UPDATE: This is actually an older pic. I have found setting the 4000 to 4150 works a bit better for stability. And setting both front porch and sync width to 1 helps with the blurring effect.


Thanks for this!

Honestly, is it even worth doing or does it not make much difference in image quality in games?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Here are my settings for [email protected] They work for 67hz as well. I also have a 780ti so you should be good.
> 
> 
> 
> UPDATE: This is actually an older pic. I have found setting the 4000 to 4150 works a bit better for stability. And setting both front porch and sync width to 1 helps with the blurring effect.


Nice Spartan and thanks for sharing!...4K is working flawlessly on my monitor at 55 and 60hz...ill try and push the refresh rate up and see how far i can push it!



Edit: i need a magnifying glass to see the icons at this resolution lol



4k in the above picture and back to normal in the picture below..4k is to high for me i think i would need glasses for that











4K 96hz



4K 120hz......Check that 719mhz pixel clock @ 120hz for real lol


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Nice Spartan and thanks for sharing!...4K is working flawlessly on my monitor at 55 and 60hz...ill try and push the refresh rate up and see how far i can push it!
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: i need a magnifying glass to see the icons at this resolution lol
> 
> 
> 
> 4k in the above picture and back to normal in the picture below..4k is to high for me i think i would need glasses for that


Wait, how is this possible? Is this true 4k?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> i had this review in mind: http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Powercolor/R9_290X_PCS_Plus/27.html


Well like I said Tri-X is a great cooler too, but even in that review the PCS+ in performance bios returns the best temps. Keep in mind Tri-X has identical fan curves in both bios settings which are more aggressively set than the PCS+ quiet mode fan curve and on par with the PCS+ performance bios fan curve.
Quote:


> Better still, switching to performance mode limited the under-load temperature to a very impressive 68ºC - the lowest we've seen on any R9 290X.


http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/66625-powercolor-radeon-r9-290x-pcs/?page=10

Anyway not to go too far adrift but both are great coolers, here is how my gaming load temps look like with these two cards crossfired, in a silenced Define R4 case with case fans undervolted at 700-800rpm:


Air cooled crossfire... just look at those temps after playing Far Cry 3 all night. I've never heard of anyone getting temps like this with an air cooled crossfire setup in a silent case.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> What an interesting monitor! I wonder how they all pulling off 120hz with all the inputs, etc.
> 
> I might have to order one of these and test them.. might be hard to resell though if they suck.
> 
> *EDIT: ARRRGH! Why do they keep making these things matte only? Am I the only one who loves the look of glossy?!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the more interesting thing about those new monitors isn't the 4k, it's the fact it's a A-HVA panel instead of all the AH-IPS and PLS panels in all the current Korean 27" monitors.
> 
> If they had a glossy model, I would be the guinea pig on it. My glossy Qnix looks so good after calibration, I don't think anything out there can beat it.. especially at 110hz.. /first world problems


I totally agree with you on "GLOSSY"








Maybe you missed my acknowledgement on *[THIS]* page/post # 14934

IF this came in a "Glossy" @ that price ... I'd buy it today








A-HVA Panel! / True 10bit board-1.07B / 4ms GtoG 120Hz overclocking ... @$370 hard to pass up









QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPmulti TRUE10
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-Matte-27-2560x1440-10bit-Monitor-/131131920531
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> As far as I know it has not been proven that the Qnix is a true glossy for the lower price. The ebay sellers listing glossy for both the Qnix and X-star, are in the $600 to $700 range. Going to Amazon you have a seller listing a glossy type at the low price, but I cant seem to think its tempered glass, like the lower priced glossy on ebay are.


Hey Watagump, can you expand on your reason why you would think the QX2710 "Glossy" from Amazon/Bizaroo is not a true glossy panel or did I miss read your comments? ... I'm suspicious also with unfamiliar suppliers (ea Bizaroo?) but I don't have any direct proof ... if it were tempered glass, something I certainly don't want, then they'd have to list it as such ... not as glossy ... there are so many misconceptions with tempered glass being a true glossy it's frustrating.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Wait, how is this possible? Is this true 4k?


Yep that is true 4k...but you need a magnifying glass to see the icons and Check that 719mhz pixel clock @ 120hz lol


----------



## DBCoopa

Is that with a standard Qnix? Or a newer one?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep that is true 4k...but you need a magnifying glass to see the icons and Check that 719mhz pixel clock @ 120hz lol


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> Is that with a standard Qnix? Or a newer one?


Nope this is with my standard Samsung PLS Qnix


----------



## Chowchilla

damn them new Qnix monitors look good. half tempted to attempt to cancel my order and get one..hmm


----------



## DBCoopa

So the QNIX 2710?

Nice o.o


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> So the QNIX 2710?
> 
> Nice o.o


Nope really the is my Standard Samsung PLS Qnix....i have not bought the new one!


----------



## DBCoopa

Awesome!


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep that is true 4k...but you need a magnifying glass to see the icons and Check that 719mhz pixel clock @ 120hz lol


is there something special you're doing? when I put 3840x2160 in NVCP it simply says "this monitor does not support 3840x2160"

Oh wait... you don't have the 2710? Is there an older model previous to the 2710 that is different from the current qnix and X-star 2710?


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> damn them new Qnix monitors look good. half tempted to attempt to cancel my order and get one..hmm


I am going to order one of the new Qnix monitors this week. I'll be the guinea pig for one and all -- Just sucks they don't have a glossy option.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> is there something special you're doing? when I put 3840x2160 in NVCP it simply says "this monitor does not support 3840x2160"


Nope Spaton F8 came in on the last page and suggested some timings for 4k down sampling and i have just messed with them some and have kept pushing up the Hertz....just experimenting and seeing how far i can push it!


----------



## digitalforce

It's really dumb they didn't name this model something besides QX2710.. there is going to be a lot of confusion ongoing. These panels came out of nowhere...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-27-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-DP-Multi-True10-2560x1440-10bit-Monitor-/141212112310?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20e0e5d5b6


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I totally agree with you on "GLOSSY"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you missed my acknowledgement on *[THIS]* page/post # 14934
> 
> IF this came in a "Glossy" @ that price ... I'd buy it today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A-HVA Panel! / True 10bit board-1.07B / 4ms GtoG 120Hz overclocking ... @$370 hard to pass up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPmulti TRUE10
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-Matte-27-2560x1440-10bit-Monitor-/131131920531
> Hey Watagump, can you expand on your reason why you would think the QX2710 "Glossy" from Amazon/Bizaroo is not a true glossy panel or did I miss read your comments? ... I'm suspicious also with unfamiliar suppliers (ea Bizaroo?) but I don't have any direct proof ... if it were tempered glass, something I certainly don't want, then they'd have to list it as such ... not as glossy ... there are so many misconceptions with tempered glass being a true glossy it's frustrating.


Just the price, but I could be wrong.The same guy sells a tempered glass also, that is in line with the cheaper models. I just like you is looking for 100% proof. It just seems odd that the glossy go for the much higher price on ebay than Amazon. Now the ones on ebay do have other connections on them, but to make them that much higher priced?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep that is true 4k...but you need a magnifying glass to see the icons and Check that 719mhz pixel clock @ 120hz lol


I still don't get it tho, display max res is 2560x1440, but it has "virtual 4k". What does that really mean? Is this some form of supersampling?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> It's really dumb they didn't name this model something besides QX2710.. there is going to be a lot of confusion ongoing. These panels came out of nowhere...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-27-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-DP-Multi-True10-2560x1440-10bit-Monitor-/141212112310?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20e0e5d5b6


...multiple inputs, claims to be a 10bit display, 4MS response time.......is this legit ?

I wonder what the input lag is like.

I noticed the panel type is listed as "AH-VA"


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I still don't get it tho, display max res is 2560x1440, but it has "virtual 4k". What does that really mean? Is this some form of supersampling?


A new form of sampling called marketing perhaps?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> ...multiple inputs, claims to be a 10bit display, 4MS response time.......is this legit ?
> 
> I wonder what the input lag is like.
> 
> I noticed the panel type is listed as "AH-VA"


From what I have read already, the AH-VA is the AUO version of PLS IPS. AUO is the panel manufacturer.


----------



## lawson67

Glad i am getting my 2 new R90 cards next week...tomb Raider at 4K sure does drop the FPS down!

2560x1440




4k Gaming below and *low FPS* also such high resolution has moved my OSD all over the screen and i have not got around to moving it yet!


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Glad i am getting my 2 new R90 cards next week...tomb Raider at 4K sure does drop the FPS down!
> 
> 2560x1440
> 
> 4k Gaming below and *low FPS* also such high resolution has moved my OSD all over the screen and i have not got around to moving it yet!


How is it even possible to run 4k at 120 Hz? I can only run it at 30 Hz...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> How is it even possible to run 4k at 120 Hz? I can only run it at 30 Hz...


The people selling the 4k, even list its 4k at 30hz.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> How is it even possible to run 4k at 120 Hz? I can only run it at 30 Hz...


Have you tied to copy the timings i am using?...i do not know how but what i do know is that its working and i can even game at these settings with no artefacts!...maybe it has something to do with my superduper Gold DVI-D lead pictured below lol...i don't know how but it seems working fine and i cant believe i can even game at this resolution with *NO* artefacts unreal!



Edit: have you tried gaming at it?


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Have you tied to copy the timings i am using?...i do not know how but what i do know is that its working and i can even game at these settings with no artefacts!...maybe it has something to do with my superduper Gold DVI-D lead pictured below lol...i don't know how but it seems working fine and i cant believe i can even game at this resolution with *NO* artefacts unreal!
> Edit: have you tried gaming at it?


I can't even set it, says my monitor doesn't support it. I used Spartan's timings.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> I can't even set it, says my monitor doesn't support it. I used Spartan's timings.


Try mine


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try mine


Also you should end up with 2 custom resolutions like this if successful


----------



## yasamoka

Whaaat? 719MHz? IS your Qnix still alive?









How did you get to 719MHz...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Whaaat? 719MHz? IS your Qnix still alive?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you get to 719MHz...


Lmao I don't know i was just keep messing with my timings trying to go higher and higher at 4K...i am not going to run it like this 24/7 as i don't trust such a high pixel clock and i don't want to blow my monitor up!...however what i am finding really hard to believe is that it appears that i can maintain this high pixel clock and even game with it without artefacts?

BTW: yasamoka its worth noteing that Sustainer Download is doing fantastic job at 3840x2160 applying my 120hz ICC profile lol


----------



## isaacchristie

Hey guys,

Im looking at getting one of these too. Quick question:
The selling page says it does not support laptops. How bout a Alienware 14? I recently got mine and it doesn't have a DVI output but I've found a Display-port to DVI and also a HDMI to DVI, would these do the job? and if so which is a better choice DisplayPort or HDMI?

Also whats the difference between these two:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Adapter-Cable-Meters/dp/B001TH7T2U/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_z
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISVI3U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thx
Isaac


----------



## jourelemode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Also you should end up with 2 custom resolutions like this if successful


hey lawson, just using the nvidia controls I can set the overclock? no need to use CRU or is it still needed?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> hey lawson, just using the nvidia controls I can set the overclock? no need to use CRU or is it still needed?


I have only used NVCP ... CRU would surly just mess things up for me with Nvidia experience and Samsung magician installed...also i have being playing some more and noted each the pixel clocks speeds at 3840x2160 at different refresh rates and found that gaming at 75hz should be just fine!

Pixel clock speed at 3840x2160 refresh rates:-
60hz = 359mhz
70hz = 419mhz
75hz = 449mhz
80hz = 479mhz
96hz = 575mhz
120hz = 719mhz

So taking the above into account i believe i could safely run/Game at 3840x2160 Resolution at 75hz without a worry in the world with a lovely near perfect 449mhz pixel clock!. ..Also my 2 new 4GB Sapphire Radeon R9 290 Tri X OC, cards should hold up well at 4K i believe...i will find out soon!

75hz = 449mhz pixel clock


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Are the displays without an internal scaler capable of displaying 1080p ?


----------



## yasamoka

I'd take 110 / 120Hz over 3840x2160 (downsampled) @ 75Hz anytime...well, unless the game doesn't support running at more than 75FPS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Are the displays without an internal scaler capable of displaying 1080p ?


Only if GPU scaling is used. They can't display an input 1080p signal. The GPU renders at 1080p and sends an upscaled 1440p signal to the monitor.


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I have only used NVCP ... CRU would surly just mess things up for me with Nvidia experience and Samsung magician installed...also i have being playing some more and noted each the pixel clocks speeds at 3840x2160 at different refresh rates and found that gaming at 75hz should be just fine!
> 
> Pixel clock speed at 3840x2160 refresh rates:-
> 60hz = 359mhz
> 70hz = 419mhz
> 75hz = 449mhz
> 80hz = 479mhz
> 96hz = 575mhz
> 120hz = 719mhz
> 
> So taking the above into account i believe i could safely run/Game at 3840x2160 Resolution at 75hz without a worry in the world with a lovely near perfect 449mhz pixel clock!. ..Also my 2 new 4GB Sapphire Radeon R9 290 Tri X OC, cards should hold up well at 4K i believe...i will find out soon!
> 
> 75hz = 449mhz pixel clock


Hey Lawson, just so you know, if you hold left control and mouse scroll when on the desktop you can change the size of your icons... It might make it easier to see them.

Edit: Make sure and click on your desktop first.

Edit#2: Tried your timings and this is what I got:


With this monitor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Hey Lawson, just so you know, if you hold left control and mouse scroll when on the desktop you can change the size of your icons... It might make it easier to see them.
> 
> Edit: Make sure and click on your desktop first.


Yes you are right and thanks for reminding me


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes you are right and thanks for reminding me


I edited my previous post with the timings I used and the error message I received, any thoughts?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Hey Lawson, just so you know, if you hold left control and mouse scroll when on the desktop you can change the size of your icons... It might make it easier to see them.
> 
> Edit: Make sure and click on your desktop first.
> 
> Edit#2: Tried your timings and this is what I got:
> 
> 
> With this monitor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885


Are you using my monitor driver file?

Edit: yes your monitor is the same as mine...my monitor is the original QX2710 Samsung PLS Qnix


----------



## Strickt

I might not be, can you post again?

Will it cause a conflict with the existing driver I have loaded for the monitor?


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> I edited my previous post with the timings I used and the error message I received, any thoughts?


I get the same error message when trying to apply the 4k resolution.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> I might not be, can you post again?
> 
> Will it cause a conflict with the existing driver I have loaded for the monitor?


Well if you guys have it then it should be the same as mine i have not altered it in any way but i will post it again...and no it will not conflict with your existing driver...however if you open this driver file up in notepad and the original monitor driver file you got from me in notepad and there's no difference then updating it will pointless i am sorry!...i do not know why you are getting these messages?

qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Well if you guys have it then it should be the same as mine i have not altered it in any way but i will post it again...and no it will not conflict with your existing driver...however if you open this driver file up in notepad and the original monitor driver file you got from me in notepad and there's no difference then updating it will pointless i am sorry!...i do not know why you are getting these messages?
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file


Only difference i see is this:

[Strings]
MFR="QNIX"
MODEL="QX2710"
MODE="MODES\2560,1440"
RANGE="30.0-235.0,24.0-150.0,+,-"
MAXRES="2560,1440"

[Strings]
MFR="Yamakasi"
MODEL="Catleap Q270 Extreme"
MODE="MODES\2560,1440"
RANGE="30.0-235.0,24.0-150.0,+,-"
MAXRES="2560,1440"

Do you think this would make any difference?


----------



## lawson67

Counter strike source sees 3840x2160 as my native resolution check the picture below...also over 200fps at 4K in Counter strike source benchmark..but it is an old game!


----------



## QuickFix

Lawson,
Thanks for the "qnix.inf" driver, I downloaded it from a previous link you provided and loaded it.







Thanks for turning me on to the Korean monitor bargain!

Here's my experience with overclocking three Qnix 2710 with Nvidia Surround for a res of 7680x1440. Alone one monitor does 120hz no problem, the other two look like a little better than 96hz is it. I set them up separately so 96hz is a refresh choice, but when I link them In surround I only get a 75hz option in the NVCP.. I've done the NVIDIA Pixel clock patcher from toasty. When in surround going into the NVCP under Customize, the "Create Custom Resolution" tab is greyed out. I'm running the latest Nvidia drivers with a couple of EVGA GTX670 FTW+ 4gb for the SLI. I've tried using Custom Resolution Utility, but 7680x1440 is not an option. Also tried the EVGA Pixel Clock OC on the monitors separately to set a profile that would stick. (It locks up the computer using it when in surround.) The system runs great at 75hz, but sure would like run at 96hz. Any ideas?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Only difference i see is this:
> 
> [Strings]
> MFR="QNIX"
> MODEL="QX2710"
> MODE="MODES\2560,1440"
> RANGE="30.0-235.0,24.0-150.0,+,-"
> MAXRES="2560,1440"
> 
> [Strings]
> MFR="Yamakasi"
> MODEL="Catleap Q270 Extreme"
> MODE="MODES\2560,1440"
> RANGE="30.0-235.0,24.0-150.0,+,-"
> MAXRES="2560,1440"
> 
> Do you think this would make any difference?


No that will not make a difference other than your monitor being called Catleap Q270 Extreme


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuickFix*
> 
> Lawson,
> Thanks for the "qnix.inf" driver, I downloaded it from a previous link you provided and loaded it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for turning me on to the Korean monitor bargain!
> 
> Here's my experience with overclocking three Qnix 2710 with Nvidia Surround for a res of 7680x1440. Alone one monitor does 120hz no problem, the other two look like a little better than 96hz is it. I set them up separately so 96hz is a refresh choice, but when I link them In surround I only get a 75hz option in the NVCP.. I've done the NVIDIA Pixel clock patcher from toasty. When in surround going into the NVCP under Customize, the "Create Custom Resolution" tab is greyed out. I'm running the latest Nvidia drivers with a couple of EVGA GTX670 FTW+ 4gb for the SLI. I've tried using Custom Resolution Utility, but 7680x1440 is not an option. Also tried the EVGA Pixel Clock OC on the monitors separately to set a profile that would stick. (It locks up the computer using it when in surround.) The system runs great at 75hz, but sure would like run at 96hz. Any ideas?


I really am not sure because i have never used Nvidia Surround however is there a 75hz limit for Nvidia Surround ?...its the only thing i can think of that makes any sense if individually each monitor can hit 96hz or 120hz..


----------



## jameyscott

No, there isn't. I run 120hz lightboost for my main set up. Surround is finnicky. I'm sure it's finnicky.


----------



## QuickFix

I did set a couple of the monitors to 75hz initially, thinking to eventually having 60, 75, and 96hz as options. Maybe that just stuck in there for some reason. Thinking along the finicky line, I guess my last hope is reinstalling the NVIDIA software and building up to the surround adding one monitor at a time. Maybe I can get a pair running at 96, then add the third. Will keep you guys advised......


----------



## Darkz0r

Edit: Had major orange blob on right upper corner when displaying white images overclocked, fixed issue DISABLING F.LUX.


----------



## DBEAU

Just discovered I can, in fact, apply a 4k resolution with automatic timings but only at 30hz. it will pass the test for 4k @ 60hz but it won't show up in the dropdown after testing it even though it says it passed.


----------



## QuickFix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkz0r*
> 
> Bah, either my cable suck or my 2710. If using 96hz or above I get a HUGE orange blob on the top right corner when displaying an all out image.
> Some other people already reported this problem before, tried several different ICC profiles. The 180 brightness one seemed to reduce the orange blob a bit but not completely.
> 
> Trying different port on the GPU now.


On my 2710 that does 120hz, I've got an 10mm diameter "off temperature" "blob" at any hertz. Fortunately, It's only visible on light blue/grey or white screens. I got $30 off from the vendor. It was one of those QX2710 SE editions. I'm starting to think the SE edition meant "Tested" to 120hz. On the Amazon ad it stated "Overclockable to 120hz". (Implying guaranteed). The other two I ordered from a different link and were not SE, and neither hits 120, but with no dead pixels, BLB or blob. I do realize defects and overclockablity are hit or miss in most cases, but I haven't seen that type of statement in any other ad. I've read the deal about the SE just allowed more stuck/dead pixels, but that sure doesn't seem very "special" to me. My best theory now is that the SE is tested to hit 120hz, but comes higher in the other of the usual defects which gamers might be more forgiving of as long as it overclocks to 120. Does this make sense or am I nuts....


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Just discovered I can, in fact, apply a 4k resolution with automatic timings but only at 30hz. it will pass the test for 4k @ 60hz but it won't show up in the dropdown after testing it even though it says it passed.


Yes it will for some reason delete the previous one and leave the new one i have found...also i have just found that if i tick hide resolutions this monitor can not display in windows it will not work in my games!...if untick this everything is fine again!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Just discovered I can, in fact, apply a 4k resolution with automatic timings but only at 30hz. it will pass the test for 4k @ 60hz but it won't show up in the dropdown after testing it even though it says it passed.


You have done this with auto timings?...what are your pixel clock readings..i would not leave mine at 120hz...719mhz is way to high..do not go to far over 450mhz the chips limit don't blow up the PCB board its not worth it!


----------



## bluedevil

Can anyone tell me what FPS @ 1440p on a 7870 on High and or Med no AA/AF in BF4? Trying to decide on getting a Qnix/Xstar1440p monitor.


----------



## lawson67

Hey guys i need some advice from our graphic card experts like digitalforce!... i have just realized that i will *not* fit in my case the 4GB Sapphire Radeon R9 290 Tri X OC... and the...Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 OC WindForce 4096MB...will also be a tight fit...so will i am going to buy this.. Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5...will the power color still be as good as the other two...it is shorter and so therefore fits in my case...some advice please thanks!...and any downsides to buying the power color?

Links:-
http://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/Powercolor+Radeon+R9+290+PCS%2B+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+?productId=59731

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390789585285?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4GB-Sapphire-Radeon-R9-290-Tri-X-OC-28nm-6200MHz-GDDR5-GPU-1000MHz-2560-Stre-/360877312243?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5405f6c8f3

Edit: found it even cheaper here

http://www.comcen.co.uk/product/1005537/powercolor-axr9-290-4gbd5ppdhe-graphics-card-radeon-r9-290-4gb-pcie-dvihdmidisplayport-pcs-edition


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey guys i need some advice from our graphic card experts like digitalforce!... i have just realized that i will *not* fit in my case the 4GB Sapphire Radeon R9 290 Tri X OC... and the...Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 OC WindForce 4096MB...will also be a tight fit...so will i am going to buy this.. Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5...will the power color still be as good as the other two...it is shorter and so therefore fits in my case...some advice please thanks!...and any downsides to buying the power color?
> 
> Links:-
> http://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/Powercolor+Radeon+R9+290+PCS%2B+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+?productId=59731
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390789585285?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4GB-Sapphire-Radeon-R9-290-Tri-X-OC-28nm-6200MHz-GDDR5-GPU-1000MHz-2560-Stre-/360877312243?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5405f6c8f3


I have found that most graphic card companies are good about warranties but I have never dealt personally with Powercolor. You should check their warranty and return policies in case of issues.

Is your budget around 350 pounds? Let me know the max you are willing to spend and maybe I can help further


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey guys i need some advice from our graphic card experts like digitalforce!... i have just realized that i will *not* fit in my case the 4GB Sapphire Radeon R9 290 Tri X OC... and the...Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 OC WindForce 4096MB...will also be a tight fit...so will i am going to buy this.. Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5...will the power color still be as good as the other two...it is shorter and so therefore fits in my case...some advice please thanks!...and any downsides to buying the power color?
> 
> Links:-
> http://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/Powercolor+Radeon+R9+290+PCS%2B+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+?productId=59731
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390789585285?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4GB-Sapphire-Radeon-R9-290-Tri-X-OC-28nm-6200MHz-GDDR5-GPU-1000MHz-2560-Stre-/360877312243?pt=UK_Computing_Computer_Components_Graphics_Video_TV_Cards_TW&hash=item5405f6c8f3


What do you mean by as good, as I said in another post, at the same clock speeds you can expect them to all perform the same.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I have found that most graphic card companies are good about warranties but I have never dealt personally with Powercolor. You should check their warranty and return policies in case of issues.
> 
> Is your budget around 350 pounds? Let me know the max you are willing to spend and maybe I can help further


Yes around £350 is my budget and thanks for your help main problem i have is space 29cm in the limit...the power colors are shorter 26cm will be a much better fit and warranty is 2 years on them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> What do you mean by as good, as I said in another post, at the same clock speeds you can expect them to all perform the same.


Well yes i see the that the clock speeds are nearly the same ..in fact the power color has a base clock slightly faster than the Sapphire however my main concern will be what is the cooling going to be like from a shorter card and as digital has tested a lot of cards i was rather hoping he would know this or where to find a comparison cooling chart etc


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes around £350 is my budget and thanks for your help main problem i have is space 29cm in the limit...the power colors are shorter 26cm will be a much better fit and warranty is 2 years on them
> Well yes i see the that the clock speeds are nearly the same ..in fact the power color has a base clock slightly faster than the Sapphire however my main concern will be what is the cooling going to be like from a shorter card and as digital has tested a lot of cards i was rather hoping he would know this or where to find a comparison cooling chart etc


The bottom line for me, is 15 years building computers, I have never had any card over heat. The fans need to flat out die for that to happen. Find one that fits, like you did, then buy the one that's the best price.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The bottom line for me, is 15 years building computers, I have never had any card over heat. The fans need to flat out die for that to happen. Find one that fits, like you did, then buy the one that's the best price.


I've been building my own PCs for over 20 years.. I've had a Sapphire die out right and an EVGA. Both companies replaced the cards immediately. A friend's XFX 290x just died as well, same, replaced instantly.

Lawson, I think you'll be happy with your purchase.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I've been building my own PCs for over 20 years.. I've had a Sapphire die out right and an EVGA. Both companies replaced the cards immediately. A friend's XFX 290x just died as well, same, replaced instantly.
> 
> Lawson, I think you'll be happy with your purchase.


I have only had to RMA one video card and it was my EVGA GTX 8800. It was from the memory failing, not any heat issue.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I've been building my own PCs for over 20 years.. I've had a Sapphire die out right and an EVGA. Both companies replaced the cards immediately. A friend's XFX 290x just died as well, same, replaced instantly.
> 
> Lawson, I think you'll be happy with your purchase.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have only had to RMA one video card and it was my EVGA GTX 8800. It was from the memory failing, not any heat issue.


Thank you for your help guys!....i am off to bed now bloody late here in the UK









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> No the Powercolor PCS+ 290 cannot be beat for temps. (Its a 3 slotter) I have that and a Tri-X. Tri-X is good too. But not as good as the PCS+ at cooling.


I found this from earlier makes me feel happy going to bed thinking of what he wrote lol









And more info on the power color here!

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Powercolor/R9_290X_PCS_Plus/27.html

http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/66625-powercolor-radeon-r9-290x-pcs/?page=10


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> No the Powercolor PCS+ 290 cannot be beat for temps. (Its a 3 slotter) I have that and a Tri-X. Tri-X is good too. But not as good as the PCS+ at cooling.


I found this from earlier makes me feel happy going to bed thinking of what he wrote lol


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes around £350 is my budget and thanks for your help main problem i have is space 29cm in the limit...the power colors are shorter 26cm will be a much better fit and warranty is 2 years on them
> Well yes i see the that the clock speeds are nearly the same ..in fact the power color has a base clock slightly faster than the Sapphire however my main concern will be what is the cooling going to be like from a shorter card and as digital has tested a lot of cards i was rather hoping he would know this or where to find a comparison cooling chart etc


The Powercolor has probably the best cooling of any of the cards out right now. It's not just as good, it's better.


----------



## Watagump

I knew you couldn't go to sleep that easily. BTW, what made you decide to jump to team red?


----------



## jameyscott

Mine just shipped!


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes around £350 is my budget and thanks for your help main problem i have is space 29cm in the limit...the power colors are shorter 26cm will be a much better fit and warranty is 2 years on them
> Well yes i see the that the clock speeds are nearly the same ..in fact the power color has a base clock slightly faster than the Sapphire however my main concern will be what is the cooling going to be like from a shorter card and as digital has tested a lot of cards i was rather hoping he would know this or where to find a comparison cooling chart etc


Warning, powercolor pcs+ listed specs are wrong. It's ~294mm long and 52mm thick. That's why it cools so well lol it's a humongous cooler with heatsink fin area dwarfing most other cards. It's well done tho with big heatsinks on both vrms and pads on all memory chips.


----------



## Optimus1978

dream-seller has just come back to say they can't undervalue with FedEx - but can send with EMS for a $50 surcharge.

I've left it with Fedex (kinda trust them), and if I'm paying $50 surcharge I may as well just pay the customs charges.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> dream-seller has just come back to say they can't undervalue with FedEx - but can send with EMS for a $50 surcharge.
> 
> I've left it with Fedex (kinda trust them), and if I'm paying $50 surcharge I may as well just pay the customs charges.


Wow that sucks. To what country?


----------



## brialee8

Where do you live Optimus1978?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You have done this with auto timings?...what are your pixel clock readings..i would not leave mine at 120hz...719mhz is way to high..do not go to far over 450mhz the chips limit don't blow up the PCB board its not worth it!


*@Lawson* make sure you test your downsampled resolution on a frame skip test. Many times the previously set custom downsampled resolution can "stick" and the refresh doesn't actually raise. I can set my Qnix to what ever refresh i want when this happens because the refresh is not actually changing. For example i set my Qnix to 600hz at one point to check if it was actually changing, after running a frame skip test the refresh was still running at 65hz(which was the last resolution tested). To fix this you need to delete any previously established downsampled resolution. Just to clarify, you literally cannot push over around 600mhz over the DVI port, cable, PCB. Now you can potentially push the virtual or downsampled resolution as high as you like keeping the refresh around 60hz with bios tweaks. By bios tweaks i mean forcing the DVI port into 3D mode(highest power state) which will make every false start resolution(pixel pixel lines at the top of the screen thingy) actually work. This has worked for another user i was PMing with a while back in which he achieved [email protected] Giving the level of downsampling is mostly dependant on the video card is stands to reason it may be possible to push the virtual pixels higher and higher with different Gfx cards. This is shown by some 1080p panel downsampling to well over 4K (which is also NOT actual pixels). Heck i have a laptop that can downsample to [email protected] but it is almost unusable (due to GUI size).

Also, the highest i have seen anyone get the Qnix in 4K is 77hz and that was with bios tweaks for the DVI port initial speed set. The DVI initial speed is generally 100mhz(which is why some of us run into higher idle states with certain timings) but forcing 3D mode can keep it at 400mhz which allows higher overclocks at downsampled resolutions. This was tested with a refresh rate multitool (to eliminate any false reporting from UFO test). So to clarify the highest to date (tested) downsample with no GPU bios tweaks is (to my knowledge) 68hz (by another user as i myself topped at 67hz), and with running the DVI port speed set at an initial MAX speed was [email protected] So i would like to see if you screen is actually running those speeds at 4K, or if you are experiencing a "stuck" downsample refresh rate.

And to clarify NO this is NOT true 4K, it is downsampled which is a form of supersampling (OGSSAA to be exact). This is a brute force hardware form of supersampling and although is the most visually effective, it is also the most hardware intensive(because it is effectively only using hardware for the filtering). Sorry but we are not creating new pixels, the screen is only capable of 1440p thus making these "scaled" resolutions NOT native. You also will not blow up your PCB because when downsampling the scaling is done on the GPU which means the resulting resolution or pixel clock sent out the DVI port to the display has already been scaled and will be a scaled 1440p resolution. My [email protected] resolution after scaling actually only results in a 359mhz pixel clock (which is nothing on the PCB).

This is one of the best tutorial/explanation threads regarding downsampling.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509076

Hopefully this clears up some information that may have been mis-represented.


----------



## brialee8

Well...just put in an order for this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330932578190&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

dream-seller, do not fail me..


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> Where do you live Optimus1978?


UK


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> *@Lawson* make sure you test your downsampled resolution on a frame skip test. Many times the previously set custom downsampled resolution can "stick" and the refresh doesn't actually raise. I can set my Qnix to what ever refresh i want when this happens because the refresh is not actually changing. For example i set my Qnix to 600hz at one point to check if it was actually changing, after running a frame skip test the refresh was still running at 65hz(which was the last resolution tested). To fix this you need to delete any previously established downsampled resolution. Just to clarify, you literally cannot push over around 600mhz over the DVI port, cable, PCB. Now you can potentially push the virtual or downsampled resolution as high as you like keeping the refresh around 60hz with bios tweaks. By bios tweaks i mean forcing the DVI port into 3D mode(highest power state) which will make every false start resolution(pixel pixel lines at the top of the screen thingy) actually work. This has worked for another user i was PMing with a while back in which he achieved [email protected] Giving the level of downsampling is mostly dependant on the video card is stands to reason it may be possible to push the virtual pixels higher and higher with different Gfx cards. This is shown by some 1080p panel downsampling to well over 4K (which is also NOT actual pixels). Heck i have a laptop that can downsample to [email protected] but it is almost unusable (due to GUI size).
> 
> Also, the highest i have seen anyone get the Qnix in 4K is 77hz and that was with bios tweaks for the DVI port initial speed set. The DVI initial speed is generally 100mhz(which is why some of us run into higher idle states with certain timings) but forcing 3D mode can keep it at 400mhz which allows higher overclocks at downsampled resolutions. This was tested with a refresh rate multitool (to eliminate any false reporting from UFO test). So to clarify the highest to date (tested) downsample with no GPU bios tweaks is (to my knowledge) 68hz (by another user as i myself topped at 67hz), and with running the DVI port speed set at an initial MAX speed was [email protected] So i would like to see if you screen is actually running those speeds at 4K, or if you are experiencing a "stuck" downsample refresh rate.
> 
> And to clarify NO this is NOT true 4K, it is downsampled which is a form of supersampling (OGSSAA to be exact). This is a brute force hardware form of supersampling and although is the most visually effective, it is also the most hardware intensive(because it is effectively only using hardware for the filtering). Sorry but we are not creating new pixels, the screen is only capable of 1440p thus making these "scaled" resolutions NOT native. You also will not blow up your PCB because when downsampling the scaling is done on the GPU which means the resulting resolution or pixel clock sent out the DVI port to the display has already been scaled and will be a scaled 1440p resolution. My [email protected] resolution after scaling actually only results in a 359mhz pixel clock (which is nothing on the PCB).
> 
> This is one of the best tutorial/explanation threads regarding downsampling.
> http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509076
> 
> Hopefully this clears up some information that may have been mis-represented.


Wow some great downscaling info there sparton thanks!...also your explanation makes perfect sense with some of the issues i was facing as in new resolution over writing the old etc ...i will have to do the UFO test later when i jump back into 4k mode as i went back to 2560x1440 due game FPS being a lot slower and the fact everything was so small at 4K. lol..But thank you for the info Sparton and for sharing the initial timings which i started to play with!...

Also my tests with downsampling and indeed yours seem to be showing that the old Qinx as in our Samsung PLS monitor can handle 4K downsampling a lot better than the new so called.. "true 4K Qnix".. if it can only downsample 4k at 30hz...i know this the very first resolution i tried i did UFO test at 55hz and was working fine with the UFO page and synced Valid at 55hz..and that alone is higher than the new Qnix if it can only downsample 4K at 30hz!...However i did not bother UFO testing the ones after as i was sure that they were working what with seeing the resulting pixel clock change!...i will do some more testing with 4K later and post the results...however what you say makes perfect scene now!...and the higher refresh rate simply could not sticking and i have certainly not tweaked my cards bios..ill do some more 4K testing later and post the results!...right to my next project now i need to sort out some new graphics cards that will fit into my case lol...once again as always thanks for the info Sparton









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Warning, powercolor pcs+ listed specs are wrong. It's ~294mm long and 52mm thick. That's why it cools so well lol it's a humongous cooler with heatsink fin area dwarfing most other cards. It's well done tho with big heatsinks on both vrms and pads on all memory chips.


Are you sure?...i will have to call the store and get them to measure them before i buy them then?...however even power colors own web site clams these dimensions to be correct as in the link below!

http://www.powercolor.com/Global/products_features.asp?id=523#Specification

Edit:- i have just found a review which clams these dimensions...if true these will in my case









The Good: This is maybe the best cooler ever put on a high end gpu. There are heatsinks for the vrms, a thermal pad over the memory, two massive heatsinks over the length of the card, and a bunch of copper pipes. My jaw constantly drops over the temps I'm getting. With a beefy overclock I can keep core and both vrms under 70c!! That's just sick. At stock clocks I can game and core and vrms will be around 50c. That's borderline water cooling level heat dispersion. Overclocking is silicon lottery but my card can hit 1230 core and 1700 vram.

The Squirrelly: Huge card. The listed specs are wrong, it's 294mm long and 52mm thick. Fans are loud from 60% on up and the temps I note above are with fans at 60-80%. But you can run the fans at a very quiet 50% at stock clocks.
Pro Tip: If you can deal with the size and fans that are on the loud side, this is the best custom 290.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foreman*
> 
> The Powercolor has probably the best cooling of any of the cards out right now. It's not just as good, it's better.


Yes so i have been reading in a review i found below..and Thanks for the info Foreman and these will fit in my case and i have found them for only £310...result!









The Good: This is maybe the best cooler ever put on a high end gpu. There are heatsinks for the vrms, a thermal pad over the memory, two massive heatsinks over the length of the card, and a bunch of copper pipes. My jaw constantly drops over the temps I'm getting. With a beefy overclock I can keep core and both vrms under 70c!! That's just sick. At stock clocks I can game and core and vrms will be around 50c. That's borderline water cooling level heat dispersion. Overclocking is silicon lottery but my card can hit 1230 core and 1700 vram.

The Squirrelly: Huge card. The listed specs are wrong, it's 294mm long and 52mm thick. Fans are loud from 60% on up and the temps I note above are with fans at 60-80%. But you can run the fans at a very quiet 50% at stock clocks.

Pro Tip: If you can deal with the size and fans that are on the loud side, this is the best custom 290.


----------



## digitalforce

Good luck with your GPU decision lawson. Hope it all turns out!

For me, after testing so many 290(x) cards and 780 Ti cards, I just can't go back to Team Red but my 290 I tested was a fantastic card. I just like the Nvidia control panel and drivers way more.









Debating on ordering the new True10 display for testing but my glossy Qnix is so gorgeous and perfect, it's hard to mess around anymore.. bring on OLED!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hi guys!
So I spent a good majority of 1hr reading through the OP! Some great info there +rep.
Going to make the leap in buying a Korean monitor.

Just on the fence with a few things:
-X-star vs QNIX - seems like there's no difference at all, but more people have QNIX ones. Any developments since? Would you rather prefer to buy one over the other?
-Backlight bleeding + dead pixel: Has anyone managed to contact the sellers and asked them to personally check it to make sure there's 0 dead pixels? I don't think my mini OCD will be able to stand a single dead pixel (yeah I know....)
-OC'ing it seems like 96hz is very much plausible
-Xbox360 connection is impossible -> sad face
-Nvidia SLI patch - is it really needed?
-Anyone purchased it from ebay via an "OFFER"? I saw people buying them for $270 (via the form) - how did you guys manage that?

Thanks for the help inn advance








Really want to get this monitor, but not face problems with it and use it for as long as possible. (literally purchased another GTX680 yesterday, in order to run 1440p comfortably on my system)
I hope customs don't go crazy over it - already had one ebay seller say they can mark it as a gift for me.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Good luck with your GPU decision lawson. Hope it all turns out!
> 
> For me, after testing so many 290(x) cards and 780 Ti cards, I just can't go back to Team Red but my 290 I tested was a fantastic card. I just like the Nvidia control panel and drivers way more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Debating on ordering the new True10 display for testing but my glossy Qnix is so gorgeous and perfect, it's hard to mess around anymore.. bring on OLED!


Thanks for your help digital and i am about to place my order for 2 of them from the link below...it will be a tight fit with the top card only millimetres above the card below lol....Also i agree with you i also love Nvidia too!..however i can not find a GTX780 anywhere that comes near or close to the same price as the PowerColor AXR9 290 (PCS+ Edition) or i would buy them instead!...also i would hold back for a bit on the new Qnix..let someone else get if first...i bet NCX has already ordered his lol

http://www.comcen.co.uk/product/1005537/powercolor-axr9-290-4gbd5ppdhe-graphics-card-radeon-r9-290-4gb-pcie-dvihdmidisplayport-pcs-edition


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hi guys!
> So I spent a good majority of 1hr reading through the OP! Some great info there +rep.
> Going to make the leap in buying a Korean monitor.
> 
> Just on the fence with a few things:
> -X-star vs QNIX - seems like there's no difference at all, but more people have QNIX ones. Any developments since? Would you rather prefer to buy one over the other?
> -Backlight bleeding + dead pixel: Has anyone managed to contact the sellers and asked them to personally check it to make sure there's 0 dead pixels? I don't think my mini OCD will be able to stand a single dead pixel (yeah I know....)
> -OC'ing it seems like 96hz is very much plausible
> -Xbox360 connection is impossible -> sad face
> -Nvidia SLI patch - is it really needed?
> -Anyone purchased it from ebay via an "OFFER"? I saw people buying them for $270 (via the form) - how did you guys manage that?
> 
> Thanks for the help inn advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really want to get this monitor, but not face problems with it and use it for as long as possible. (literally purchased another GTX680 yesterday, in order to run 1440p comfortably on my system)
> I hope customs don't go crazy over it - already had one ebay seller say they can mark it as a gift for me.


Hey Dubbed!

* I don't think there is any difference between Qnix and X-star besides the bezel/plastic around the panel
* BLB and dead pixel, you can try to neogoiate with the sellers. I personally bought a glossy Qnix from here. It overclocks to 110hz and has NO BLB! GORGEOUS if you like glossy:

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394458719&sr=8-1&keywords=glossy+qnix

* Yes, patch is needed for SLI
* I have done offer as well on some monitors. Like all Korean panels, it's a gamble. I've only had one Qnix I didn't like. It was matte and had HORRIBLE BLB but you can fix it as well (video in OP)

Good luck! These monitors are awesome!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Hey Dubbed!
> 
> * I don't think there is any difference between Qnix and X-star besides the bezel/plastic around the panel
> * BLB and dead pixel, you can try to neogoiate with the sellers. I personally bought a glossy Qnix from here. It overclocks to 110hz and has NO BLB! GORGEOUS if you like glossy:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394458719&sr=8-1&keywords=glossy+qnix
> 
> * Yes, patch is needed for SLI
> * I have done offer as well on some monitors. Like all Korean panels, it's a gamble. I've only had one Qnix I didn't like. It was matte and had HORRIBLE BLB but you can fix it as well (video in OP)
> 
> Good luck! These monitors are awesome!


thanks for the info dude - would buy from Amazon.com - but I'm in the UK - thus buying from Korea would be the same principle









+rep to your answers


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isaacchristie*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Im looking at getting one of these too. Quick question:
> The selling page says it does not support laptops. How bout a Alienware 14? I recently got mine and it doesn't have a DVI output but I've found a Display-port to DVI and also a HDMI to DVI, would these do the job? and if so which is a better choice DisplayPort or HDMI?
> 
> Also whats the difference between these two:
> http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Adapter-Cable-Meters/dp/B001TH7T2U/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_z
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISVI3U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> Thx
> Isaac


The second *should* do the job, but there is at least one report where it did not work, and that this version was needed instead. I still can't parse why that would be the case, but whatever. The second one I linked is $10 cheaper anyways.

The first one will not do the job. HDMI isn't compatible with dual link DVI, so you won't be able to output [email protected] The most that can be realistically expected is [email protected], via a custom resolution in Windows. You may be able to push beyond that, but don't get your hopes up.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hi guys!
> So I spent a good majority of 1hr reading through the OP! Some great info there +rep.
> Going to make the leap in buying a Korean monitor.
> 
> Just on the fence with a few things:
> -X-star vs QNIX - seems like there's no difference at all, but more people have QNIX ones. Any developments since? Would you rather prefer to buy one over the other?
> -Backlight bleeding + dead pixel: Has anyone managed to contact the sellers and asked them to personally check it to make sure there's 0 dead pixels? I don't think my mini OCD will be able to stand a single dead pixel (yeah I know....)
> -OC'ing it seems like 96hz is very much plausible
> -Xbox360 connection is impossible -> sad face
> -Nvidia SLI patch - is it really needed?
> -Anyone purchased it from ebay via an "OFFER"? I saw people buying them for $270 (via the form) - how did you guys manage that?
> 
> Thanks for the help inn advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really want to get this monitor, but not face problems with it and use it for as long as possible. (literally purchased another GTX680 yesterday, in order to run 1440p comfortably on my system)
> I hope customs don't go crazy over it - already had one ebay seller say they can mark it as a gift for me.


Hi Totally Dubbed i believe i can answer some questions for you!...on the subject of X-star or Qnix the samsung PLS versions they are both the same only difference has been the label on the front bezial with one saying Qnix one saying X-Star...however over the last week or so we have seen a new Qnix that has come out which some sellers clam to be able to overclockable even with what appears to be an on-board scaler with multi input ports!.. i shall link this below... however i am a bit sceptical weather it can really overclock and would want to wait until someone else buys one like NCX

As for pixel perfect the seller "excellentcastle" has constantly been delivering pixel perfect monitors to our members who have bought his ultimate pixel perfect monitors and if you don't want to take the gamble of reciving a monitor that could or could not have dead/stuck pixels and you want pixel a perfect monitor then buy from him and you will be fine...link below to one of them also...

As for SLI yes you must patch and you must use the full patch *nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe* if you plan to over clock your monitor...Also i would advise you that if you have nvidia do *not* use CRU to make your custom resolutions use NVCP and my monitor driver method instead!... CRU uses EDID overrides which conflict with Nvidia experience and also Samsung Magician...the only way you can use CRU with nvidia is to uninstall Nvidia experience and Samsung Magician if installed or import the blank-extension.dat into CRU when you are making your custom resolutions which should allow you carry on using Nvidia experience and Samsung Magician...however using the blank-extension.dat in CRU is far from perfect and at time windows will still refuse to see your custom resolutions!...But using the monitor driver method you will make your custom resalutions in NVCP and have NO conflicts at all and every game will see your custom resolutions!...and also when you update your drivers you will not need to worry about Nvidia Geforce experience being reinstalled...i hope this helps









The new Qnix below we do not know much about as yet

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PERFECT-PIXELS-QNIX-QX2710-Evolutionll-DP-Multi-TRUE10-27-Virtual-4K-Monitor-U-/221390816061?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338bebc33d

Excellent castle ultimate perfect pixel if you don't want to take the gamble

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi Totally Dubbed i believe i can answer some questions for you!...on the subject of X-star or Qnix the samsung PLS versions they are both the same only difference has been the label on the front bezial with one saying Qnix one saying X-Star...however over the last week or so we have seen a new Qnix that has come out which some sellers clam to be able to overclockable even with what appears to be an on-board scaler with multi input ports!.. i shall link this below... however i am a bit sceptical weather it can really overclock and would want to wait until someone else buys one like NCX
> 
> As for pixel perfect the seller "excellentcastle" has constantly been delivering pixel perfect monitors to our members who have bought his ultimate pixel perfect monitors and if you don't want to take the gamble of reciving a monitor that could or could not have dead/stuck pixels and you want pixel a perfect monitor then buy from him and you will be fine...link below to one of them also...
> 
> As for SLI yes you must patch and you must use the full patch *nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe* if your plan to over clock your monitor...Also i would advise you that if you have nvidia do *not* use CRU to make your custom resolutions use NVCP and my monitor driver method instead!... CRU uses EDID overrides which conflict with Nvidia experience and also Samsung Magician...the only way you can use CRU with nvidia is to uninstall Nvidia experience and Samsung Magician if installed or import the blank-extension.dat into CRU when you are making your custom resolutions which should allow you carry on using Nvidia experience and Samsung Magician...however using the blank-extension.dat in CRU is far from perfect and at time windows will still refuse to see your custom resolutions!...But using the monitor driver method you will make your custom resalutions in NVCP and have NO conflicts at all and every game will see your custom resolutions!...and also when you update your drivers you will not need to worry about Nvidia Geforce experience being reinstalled...i hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new Qnix below we do not know much about as yet
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/PERFECT-PIXELS-QNIX-QX2710-Evolutionll-DP-Multi-TRUE10-27-Virtual-4K-Monitor-U-/221390816061?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338bebc33d
> 
> Excellent castle ultimate perfect pixel if you don't want to take the gamble
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831


legendary post!
Right - that's exactly what I needed to know.
I'll contact the seller now! +rep


----------



## Watagump

After making the jump to a full tower many many moons ago, I cant ever go back to a smaller case. Just installing the motherboard is so much easier. In a perfect world, everyone would have space to use these bad boys.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Blast it. I sold a bunch of 780 Ti's a few months ago. I could have sent to UK ;-)
> 
> Do you want me to get one in the USA and then ship to you?


No its fine Digital and thanks for the offer!... however i do not believe i would save any money if you did as our lovely custom officials we have in the UK want there cut of any good deals you might find in the world by charging you import tax!...but thanks for the offer


----------



## Chowchilla

with talk of these new QNIX screens I've contacted my seller about the possibility of a refund. I know its a longshot and the seller has no obligation to refund me but i thought id give it a shot.

Can only try


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> with talk of these new QNIX screens I've contacted my seller about the possibility of a refund. I know its a longshot and the seller has no obligation to refund me but i thought id give it a shot.
> 
> Can only try


I made up my mind. I am going to order a new Qnix for scientific purposes. I don't care about most features but I want to try out the new A-VHA or whatever panel







I will be sure to give a full report when I receive the monitor. I am sure even if I don't end up keeping it, someone here can benefit from a low price.

Lawson, no worries mate. Just wanted to offer. I just wondered if I set the value to $50, if that would help


----------



## lawson67

This a good review on the Powercolor R9 290 PCS+ and it runs very cool indeed!.. and in benchmarks this guy did it was as fast if not faster than a GTX780 TI


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I made up my mind. I am going to order a new Qnix for scientific purposes. I don't care about most features but I want to try out the new A-VHA or whatever panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be sure to give a full report when I receive the monitor. I am sure even if I don't end up keeping it, someone here can benefit from a low price.
> 
> Lawson, no worries mate. Just wanted to offer. I just wondered if I set the value to $50, if that would help


if you get it in dude - that would be epic - I will be grateful if you could test the HDMI Xbox/PS3 compatibility too


----------



## isaacchristie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The second *should* do the job, but there is at least one report where it did not work, and that this version was needed instead. I still can't parse why that would be the case, but whatever. The second one I linked is $10 cheaper anyways.
> 
> The first one will not do the job. HDMI isn't compatible with dual link DVI, so you won't be able to output [email protected] The most that can be realistically expected is [email protected], via a custom resolution in Windows. You may be able to push beyond that, but don't get your hopes up.


Thanks for the answer dude.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Are you sure?...i will have to call the store and get them to measure them before i buy them then?...however even power colors own web site clams these dimensions to be correct as in the link below!
> 
> http://www.powercolor.com/Global/products_features.asp?id=523#Specification
> 
> Edit:- i have just found a review which clams these dimensions...if true these will in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Good: This is maybe the best cooler ever put on a high end gpu. There are heatsinks for the vrms, a thermal pad over the memory, two massive heatsinks over the length of the card, and a bunch of copper pipes. My jaw constantly drops over the temps I'm getting. With a beefy overclock I can keep core and both vrms under 70c!! That's just sick. At stock clocks I can game and core and vrms will be around 50c. That's borderline water cooling level heat dispersion. Overclocking is silicon lottery but my card can hit 1230 core and 1700 vram.
> 
> The Squirrelly: Huge card. The listed specs are wrong, it's 294mm long and 52mm thick. Fans are loud from 60% on up and the temps I note above are with fans at 60-80%. But you can run the fans at a very quiet 50% at stock clocks.
> Pro Tip: If you can deal with the size and fans that are on the loud side, this is the best custom 290.


That's my review







. At superbiiz where I bought my card. But yeah the dimensions I stated are the actual ones, not only do I have the card I measured it to help someone here determine whether it would fit in his Define R3. I actually bought the card because of its (wrong) listed dimensions and I was bummed out when I saw the actual size but it clears my hdd cage by 2mm. But the temps are so godlike I don't mind the size at all. At stock everything is sub-60c. With a mild overclock, low 60s. Maxed out, low to mid 70s. If anyone has ever heard of a powerful gpu that stays this cool, let me know, because to me this is completely unprecedented. And all this is is a Define R4 with under volted Noctuas running at 700-800rpm. I've settled on 1140 core 1500 mem, after a night of gaming temps will be 60c core, 65c vrm1, 50c vrm2. Fan will max at 54-57%. Whole case is running silently. Just, absurdly wonderful.

Tri-X is almost as good though. Temps are sub-70c across the board as top card in crossfire, albeit with fans spinning faster.

All of it looks gorgeous on my qnix 2710. Tho I might have to switch to this new display and use this screen as my secondary.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> This a good review on the Powercolor R9 290 PCS+ and it runs very cool indeed!.. and in benchmarks this guy did it was as fast if not faster than a GTX780 TI


Look at a few more of his review. He had VRM issues, returned it for a Tri X.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> That's my review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . At superbiiz where I bought my card. But yeah the dimensions I stated are the actual ones, not only do I have the card I measured it to help someone here determine whether it would fit in his Define R3. I actually bought the card because of its (wrong) listed dimensions and I was bummed out when I saw the actual size but it clears my hdd cage by 2mm. But the temps are so godlike I don't mind the size at all. At stock everything is sub-60c. With a mild overclock, low 60s. Maxed out, low to mid 70s. If anyone has ever heard of a powerful gpu that stays this cool, let me know, because to me this is completely unprecedented. And all this is is a Define R4 with under volted Noctuas running at 700-800rpm. I've settled on 1140 core 1500 mem, after a night of gaming temps will be 60c core, 65c vrm1, 50c vrm2. Fan will max at 54-57%. Whole case is running silently. Just, absurdly wonderful.
> 
> Tri-X is almost as good though. Temps are sub-70c across the board as top card in crossfire, albeit with fans spinning faster.
> 
> All of it looks gorgeous on my qnix 2710. Tho I might have to switch to this new display and use this screen as my secondary.


Oh that was your review..very good indeed and thanks for the measurements..i am very much looking forward to mine arriving..the only thing that maybe of a concern to me is that i really will be putting its cooling to the test as i am getting 2 of them to run in crossfire and the top one will ONLY be millimetres above the bottom one! .lol..also what the hell is bit-coin or mining?...are they some sort game?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Look at a few more of his review. He had VRM issues, returned it for a Tri X.


Yes i just seen that i think he just had a bad one it happens i am not to worried about his fault there are many happy with them


----------



## Osteoman

Lawson,

This is terrible. What are we Geforce people going to do if you go to the dark side with AMD? Clearly you are going to just have to run two systems, one of each for testing purposes.









All kidding aside let us know how that runs in comparison to what you have now. If you have time, run some fps tests now and then when you get the new cards for comparison. This will make you feel better about the purchase and give us some insight into potential upgrades.









We appreciate you for what you have done for this forum. Helps a lot.


----------



## TJD269

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try mine


Just out of curiosity... Are u running this resolution on your QNIX or am I just stupid... What panel are you using I guess lol


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TJD269*
> 
> Just out of curiosity... Are u running this resolution on your QNIX or am I just stupid... What panel are you using I guess lol


He is using the QNIX, and has gotten very luck to be able to run at that rez. Ive tried and failed. However another member allowed nvidia control panel to set the timings automatically which allowed him to get "4k" at 30hz


----------



## TJD269

Wouldn't that mean that it's not actually at 4k and still @ 1440p... There are still only 2560 x 1440 pixels right? So the quality wouldn't actually change rather than just be harder on the GPU. Maybe I'm going crazy and I'm completely wrong.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Would be "upscaling" OR "virtual 4K" - pretty much what was described in the ebay listing for the "new" QNIX here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221390816061&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Oh that was your review..very good indeed and thanks for the measurements..i am very much looking forward to mine arriving..the only thing that maybe of a concern to me is that i really will be putting its cooling to the test as i am getting 2 of them to run in crossfire and the top one will ONLY be millimetres above the bottom one!


I would not crossfire two of these cards. Because this is what that looks like:


That's from user magiccase who tried this in his Silverstone FT02 and gpu1 temps were too high. Granted that case is not ideal for the heatpipe orientation on this card. Otoh that case has the best airflow you're going to find, except maybe the FT04. Only way I'd even attempt crossfiring two of these cards is with a side fan, and not a big low rpm/pressure 200mm, but a high rpm/high pressure 140/120mm to blast the exhaust back into the heatsink so it doesn't get sucked up by gpu1 and to force cool air into that tiny little crack, better yet, a pair of lateral side mounted 140/120mms. Best of all would be a vertical expansion bracket above the pcie slots where you could mount one of these with triple 80/92mms:


If you have no side fan options just forget about it now. Even in an FT04, with this little spacing, any cool air that gets into that crack would be sucked in by gpu1's closest fan and the other two fans would just get exhaust from gpu2.

That's why I have a Tri-X btw, once I saw how thick this Powercolor is I ordered a Tri-X to use as gpu1. This is much more reasonable:


If you can't fit the Tri-X I don't know what your options are frankly. Asus DCUII has heatpipe issues because it's a GTX 780 cooler that's been hillbilly rigged onto the Hawaii die. MSI Gaming fans are too low rpm to use as gpu1, I have a friend who tried, simply doesn't work. I don't know much about the Gigabyte but maybe that's your only option.


----------



## TJD269

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Would be "upscaling" OR "virtual 4K" - pretty much what was described in the ebay listing for the "new" QNIX here:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221390816061&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123


So again... The quality wouldn't actually change? (Compared to 1440p)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TJD269*
> 
> So again... The quality wouldn't actually change? (Compared to 1440p)


As far as I know, no.
Sorry for not being clear.


----------



## AutomaticNugz

got my Qnix qx2710 today and just got it hooked up about a hour ago, so far so good, no dead or stuck pixels and the blacklight bleed isn't bad at all! I got mine to overclock to 96hz but when I went to 120 I got some artifacts (using cable that came with monitor)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Would be "upscaling" OR "virtual 4K" - pretty much what was described in the ebay listing for the "new" QNIX here:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221390816061&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123


There *is* a quality difference between "virtual 4K" on a 1440p screen and 1440p on the same screen. The effect is the same as "super-sampling anti-aliasing", where a higher resolution is rendered, and then adjacent pixels are sampled down ("downsampled") to create a smoother-looking picture. It's basically a fractional super-sampling, which is inferior to integer (whole multiples, ie going 4x 2560x1440) but it still results in less aliasing/jaggies. The trade-off is slight softening of the image due to the nature of fractional super-sampling.

Of course, this only really works on 3D rendered objects. For things like text, fixed-size images (rasterized, jpeg, photos) there's no benefit and a slightly penalty.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> There *is* a quality difference between "virtual 4K" on a 1440p screen and 1440p on the same screen. The effect is the same as "super-sampling anti-aliasing", where a higher resolution is rendered, and then adjacent pixels are sampled down ("downsampled") to create a smoother-looking picture. It's basically a fractional super-sampling, which is inferior to integer (whole multiples, ie going 4x 2560x1440) but it still results in less aliasing/jaggies. The trade-off is slight softening of the image due to the nature of fractional super-sampling.
> 
> Of course, this only really works on 3D rendered objects. For things like text, fixed-size images (rasterized, jpeg, photos) there's no benefit and a slightly penalty.


Well that doesn't sound very good lol. What I find with my qnix 1440p is that at this res I don't really need anti aliasing. It's now the first thing I lower/turn off in game settings to improve framerates.

What's the performance hit of running this virtual 4k supersampling?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> There *is* a quality difference between "virtual 4K" on a 1440p screen and 1440p on the same screen. The effect is the same as "super-sampling anti-aliasing", where a higher resolution is rendered, and then adjacent pixels are sampled down ("downsampled") to create a smoother-looking picture. It's basically a fractional super-sampling, which is inferior to integer (whole multiples, ie going 4x 2560x1440) but it still results in less aliasing/jaggies. The trade-off is slight softening of the image due to the nature of fractional super-sampling.
> 
> Of course, this only really works on 3D rendered objects. For things like text, fixed-size images (rasterized, jpeg, photos) there's no benefit and a slightly penalty.


I see - but if the monitor was a 1440p with virtual 4k - rather than a 4k - there's no down-sampling occurring - just "upscaling" or "virtually" creating a 4K image.
In other words, it isn't really a 4K display.

Correct me if I'm wrong though








Learnt quite a bit today in the QNIX models etc







!


----------



## vikrum2083

Hello. Please forgive me if this has been asked. I've seen some variations of my question being asked but I want to be sure before I try this.

So Dream-Seller did not include an adapter. Therefore, what are my options?

I see the brick has a plugin that resembles a PSU cord plugin. Would that work? I have 2 or 3 of those laying around. So what I'm proposing is taking the brick and the dc plugin that came with the monitor. Taking the dc plugin and putting it into the monitor per normal. Then taking an older PSU power cord I have laying around, plug it into the other end of the brick, and then plugging that into my power strip, wall, whatever.

Will this be ok?
If not can anyone tell me what kind of adapter I need to try and find to purchase?
Or just any other solutions. Thanks so much!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vikrum2083*
> 
> Hello. Please forgive me if this has been asked. I've seen some variations of my question being asked but I want to be sure before I try this.
> 
> So Dream-Seller did not include an adapter. Therefore, what are my options?
> 
> I see the brick has a plugin that resembles a PSU cord plugin. Would that work? I have 2 or 3 of those laying around. So what I'm proposing is taking the brick and the dc plugin that came with the monitor. Taking the dc plugin and putting it into the monitor per normal. Then taking an older PSU power cord I have laying around, plug it into the other end of the brick, and then plugging that into my power strip, wall, whatever.
> 
> Will this be ok?
> If not can anyone tell me what kind of adapter I need to try and find to purchase?
> Or just any other solutions. Thanks so much!


I would be tempted to contact the seller and tell them to send it to you, free.

EDIT:
By adapter you mean a PLUG adapter or do you mean a power brick / adapter?


----------



## vikrum2083

Aye, the brick/adapter.

Monitor --> DC Plugin --> Brick --> Power Cord(adapter should go here) --> Wall

My problem is the Power Cord portion of that crude diagram. I should have received a free prong/outlet adapter to use the cord they included. But I didn't. So I'm looking for options to take out their Korean power cord and replace it with say one of my old PSU power cords, a power cord that plugs into a 22 inch Dell monitor, etc.

Thoughts? Thanks!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Well that doesn't sound very good lol. What I find with my qnix 1440p is that at this res I don't really need anti aliasing. It's now the first thing I lower/turn off in game settings to improve framerates.
> 
> What's the performance hit of running this virtual 4k supersampling?


Yeah, downsampling is essentially a form of anti-aliasing, so running AA on a downsampled monitor (eg, 4K on 1440p) is somewhat redundant.

Hm... The math works out that 4k (QFHD/3840x2160) is 125% more difficult than 1440p. So you're looking at slightly less than half your normal 1440p framerate?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I see - but if the monitor was a 1440p with virtual 4k - rather than a 4k - there's no down-sampling occurring - just "upscaling" or "virtually" creating a 4K image.
> In other words, it isn't really a 4K display.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Learnt quite a bit today in the QNIX models etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Your graphics card will render a 4k image - this 4k image is then downsampled (reduced) to a 1440p image, which is then displayed.

Upsampling to 4k would be taking a 1440p image, and then scaling it up (ie, making up pixel information) to fill in the blanks you get when you scale uprwards.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vikrum2083*
> 
> Aye, the brick/adapter.
> 
> Monitor --> DC Plugin --> Brick --> Power Cord(adapter should go here) --> Wall
> 
> My problem is the Power Cord portion of that crude diagram. I should have received a free prong/outlet adapter to use the cord they included. But I didn't. So I'm looking for options to take out their Korean power cord and replace it with say one of my old PSU power cords, a power cord that plugs into a 22 inch Dell monitor, etc.
> 
> Thoughts? Thanks!


still confused by your post in all honesty. You mean the cord isn't for your region? That's to be expected - you need an adapter by the jack.
If the wire wasn't included all together - contact the ebay seller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Your graphics card will render a 4k image - this 4k image is then downsampled (reduced) to a 1440p image, which is then displayed.
> Upsampling to 4k would be taking a 1440p image, and then scaling it up (ie, making up pixel information) to fill in the blanks you get when you scale uprwards.


I know that - but do GPUs output 4k by default?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I made up my mind. I am going to order a new Qnix for scientific purposes. I don't care about most features but I want to try out the new A-VHA or whatever panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be sure to give a full report when I receive the monitor. I am sure even if I don't end up keeping it, someone here can benefit from a low price.


"Scientific Research" ... EPIC







.. but seriously can't wait to here your thoughts ... especially regarding the "Matte" finsh and if there is an overall picture improvement overcoming the grainy matte with the new A-HVA panel and "True" 10bit "color" board ... Will it have a noticeable greater "Lag" time due to the scalers? Will it clock to 120Hz as stated?Will it measure up to your present GLOSSY picture wise ...I suspect it will not, hope I'm wrong though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TJD269*
> 
> Just out of curiosity... Are u running this resolution on your QNIX or am I just stupid...


Good explanation of the "unbelievable" numbers by Spartan F8 *[HERE]* ... a few pages back with a really good link to "downsampling" *[HERE]*








Note: it's not Lawson's fault, he just posted what the software was reading at the time, but 120hz - 719 pixel clock @ 4K res just isn't possible on the QX2710









Edit: excellent additional comments by Kevinsbane









@ Lawson ... I have to agree with Taem ... This is not good, been there done that once for other builds even with excellent case airflow, and especially if you overclock.



Other options are custom loop H2o OR lot's of guys really like these AIO coolers as a quick/simple but pricey fix ...
Here's just an example ... there are a few other vendors/mods now ..



http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4850/arctic_accelero_hybrid_aio_video_card_cooler_review/index.html


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Lawson,
> 
> This is terrible. What are we Geforce people going to do if you go to the dark side with AMD? Clearly you are going to just have to run two systems, one of each for testing purposes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All kidding aside let us know how that runs in comparison to what you have now. If you have time, run some fps tests now and then when you get the new cards for comparison. This will make you feel better about the purchase and give us some insight into potential upgrades.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We appreciate you for what you have done for this forum. Helps a lot.


Yes i am going to the Dark side to be honest its becaurse i can not find a GTX780 as cheap as theR9 also all of the reviews i have seen of this card make me want it even more!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I would not crossfire two of these cards. Because this is what that looks like:
> 
> 
> That's from user magiccase who tried this in his Silverstone FT02 and gpu1 temps were too high. Granted that case is not ideal for the heatpipe orientation on this card. Otoh that case has the best airflow you're going to find, except maybe the FT04. Only way I'd even attempt crossfiring two of these cards is with a side fan, and not a big low rpm/pressure 200mm, but a high rpm/high pressure 140/120mm to blast the exhaust back into the heatsink so it doesn't get sucked up by gpu1 and to force cool air into that tiny little crack, better yet, a pair of lateral side mounted 140/120mms. Best of all would be a vertical expansion bracket above the pcie slots where you could mount one of these with triple 80/92mms:
> 
> 
> If you have no side fan options just forget about it now. Even in an FT04, with this little spacing, any cool air that gets into that crack would be sucked in by gpu1's closest fan and the other two fans would just get exhaust from gpu2.
> 
> That's why I have a Tri-X btw, once I saw how thick this Powercolor is I ordered a Tri-X to use as gpu1. This is much more reasonable:
> 
> 
> If you can't fit the Tri-X I don't know what your options are frankly. Asus DCUII has heatpipe issues because it's a GTX 780 cooler that's been hillbilly rigged onto the Hawaii die. MSI Gaming fans are too low rpm to use as gpu1, I have a friend who tried, simply doesn't work. I don't know much about the Gigabyte but maybe that's your only option.


Yes i see your point and yes they are really close...however think of a CPU it can have a massive heat sink to dissipate the heat!...now if you made that heat sink half as big there would indeed be more air around the CPU instead metal dissipating the heat!...i don't think it will make any difference really because in that gap would be just fresh air doing nothing...but with these its all heatsink and no wasted space!...and you have to think if i have one card with the same GPU but a smaller heat sink and one with a massive heat sink but they still have the same heat to dissipate weather i have 2 massive heat sinks or one big one and one small one...by rights surly the bigger the heat sink wins ..in fact this is like having one massive heat sink cooling 2 GPU with fans in the middle to further help cooing!...i think i am going to take the risk and still get the 2..also i have very good cooling in my case...2x120mm 1800 rpm in the front pulling air in ..1x 120mm 1800 rpm at the bottom pulling air up...then the air travels over my water block and CPU and out thought the roof with 2x 120mm 1800rpm pulling the air out the case...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I know that - but do GPUs output 4k by default?


By default? What do you mean? You definitely can't output 4K to the single-input monitors. For the single-input ones, if you choose to do it, the graphics card will render @4k, then convert it to a 1440p signal before sending it out to the monitor.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFlo*
> 
> Downsampling is not a form of anti aliasing and it only works on older games or games with simple engines that can handle you running them at super high resolutions in order to downsample. You wont see the aliasing very much at 1440p anyway and if you do your better off running something like Sweetfx. Huge resolutions and high fps for high hz rarely happen except with extremely fast engines that actually have picture quality to benefit from it or are internally frame locked within the engine like Need for Speed Hot Pursuit the newer one even then Downsampling huge resolutions makes the game laggy and slow.
> 
> If the new Qnix monitor has a scalar board then most likely it has more input latency(more lag because more ms between the gpu back and light from the screen or more lag between screen and mouse) then the QX2710 so someone needs to post those figures before I would consider buying it. I think the lack of OSD is a good thing and that stuff is better processed by the graphics card.
> 
> If you dont have allot of space between graphics cards you can remedy that with some strong 120mm or 140mm fans blowing directly into the space between them. Problem with that is, if you have the case door on most standard cases there isnt enough space for intake on those fans to blow with enough power in between the cards so if you have a tower case you need one that is wider like that new corsair cube case or better yet you should just take the stock coolers off buy backer plates and put sealed water coolers like the corsair h100 and buy laser cut brackets off of overclocking forums to make a plate to screw those aftermarket sealed water coolers onto the gpu and add ramsinks with superglue or thermal expoxy on the corners and a swath of non conductive non capacitive thermal paste like phobya hegrease down the center. I like to mix phobya hegrease with artic silver alumina thermal epoxy to make the epoxy more brittle and easier to remove(possible its more thermally conductive as well) from the vrms should you need to take the sinks off of them seeing as they are so small both of those products are non conductive/capacitive so it doesnt matter if you get it on chip leads and you will because vrms are so small(I've done this many times and never had a problem). If you get coollaboratory liquid pro on the contacts it will short and also over time it dries and becomes like solder joint. There are pictures online of people breaking their chips cracking huge chunks out of them because coollaboratory liquid pro or ultra turned into a solder joint.


Well I have CLU on my CPU - no troubles for the time being








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> By default? What do you mean? You definitely can't output 4K to the single-input monitors. For the single-input ones, if you choose to do it, the graphics card will render @4k, then convert it to a 1440p signal before sending it out to the monitor.


I'm a little confused by your post - but no worries








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I would not crossfire two of these cards. Because this is what that looks like:
> 
> 
> That's from user magiccase who tried this in his Silverstone FT02 and gpu1 temps were too high. Granted that case is not ideal for the heatpipe orientation on this card. Otoh that case has the best airflow you're going to find, except maybe the FT04. Only way I'd even attempt crossfiring two of these cards is with a side fan, and not a big low rpm/pressure 200mm, but a high rpm/high pressure 140/120mm to blast the exhaust back into the heatsink so it doesn't get sucked up by gpu1 and to force cool air into that tiny little crack, better yet, a pair of lateral side mounted 140/120mms. Best of all would be a vertical expansion bracket above the pcie slots where you could mount one of these with triple 80/92mms:
> 
> 
> If you have no side fan options just forget about it now. Even in an FT04, with this little spacing, any cool air that gets into that crack would be sucked in by gpu1's closest fan and the other two fans would just get exhaust from gpu2.
> 
> That's why I have a Tri-X btw, once I saw how thick this Powercolor is I ordered a Tri-X to use as gpu1. This is much more reasonable:
> 
> 
> If you can't fit the Tri-X I don't know what your options are frankly. Asus DCUII has heatpipe issues because it's a GTX 780 cooler that's been hillbilly rigged onto the Hawaii die. MSI Gaming fans are too low rpm to use as gpu1, I have a friend who tried, simply doesn't work. I don't know much about the Gigabyte but maybe that's your only option.


Doesn't this also depend on the motherboard dude?
I'll take pics of when I SLI my cards - but there will be a clear space between them. Small it may be, but there will be space


----------



## vikrum2083

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I would be tempted to contact the seller and tell them to send it to you, free.
> 
> EDIT:
> By adapter you mean a PLUG adapter or do you mean a power brick / adapter?


I really appreciate you attempting to help me. Lets give it one more go as I'm sure we can get on the same page. =)

I purchased the monitor from Korea. I live in the United States. The seller told me I'd get an adapter with my purchase so that I could plug the monitor's electrical Korean prong into an electrical outlet here in the United States. The seller did not in fact include said adapter.

What he did include was this prong;


and this brick;



Will this, which I have, work in place of the Korean prong (1st pic above) that came with it;


Again, thanks so much!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well I have CLU on my CPU - no troubles for the time being
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a little confused by your post - but no worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't this also depend on the motherboard dude?
> I'll take pics of when I SLI my cards - but there will be a clear space between them. Small it may be, but there will be space


The reason the Powercolors are so close is they are a 3 slot card compared to the normal 2 slot. I really wanted to run my 2nd card in the lowest slot, but it wont work that way for SLI, unless it was 3 cards. Anyhow, I have enough space.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vikrum2083*
> 
> I really appreciate you attempting to help me. Lets give it one more go as I'm sure we can get on the same page. =)
> 
> I purchased the monitor from Korea. I live in the United States. The seller told me I'd get an adapter with my purchase so that I could plug the monitor's electrical Korean prong into an electrical outlet here in the United States. The seller did not in fact include said adapter.
> 
> What he did include was this prong;
> 
> 
> and this brick;
> 
> 
> 
> Will this, which I have, work in place of the Korean prong (1st pic above) that came with it;
> 
> 
> Again, thanks so much!


As long as any power cable you have fits into the brick, its fine. Many have used the existing power cables they have on their current monitor.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm a little confused by your post - but no worries


Heh. Perhaps this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vikrum2083*
> 
> Will this, which I have, work in place of the Korean prong (1st pic above) that came with it;


That's what I use.


----------



## vikrum2083

Thanks a lot folks. Really appreciate everyone's time and input.


----------



## ColdFlo

Well my point is that the ramchips are small plastic flat packs that if the coollaboratory liquid pro soldered they would break very easily and its not possible to apply ramsinks to vrms with the stuff without shorting out the vrms(extremely risky). You can apply it to a cpu ihs but it will etch the top(if you can remove it all there will be eaten out swirl patterns in the ihs) and destroy it cosmetically and possibly require sanding if you allow it to harden and dry(or if it soldered and you need to apply another heatsink). Putting it on bare cores is extremely risky as well maybe not if you change it frequently but I imagine this can be hard to gauge. That stuff is great and has the highest thermal conductance but its expensive so once you have it seated you probably dont want to reapply it again if you dont have to(I imagine the tube has very few applications as well). If you take too long or forget(happens very easily after all my years of computing years fly right by) it may solder on when that happens if you ever want to remove the sink the only thing holding it together is a wafer of silicon which is not too stong. I can't think of any other way other than trying to heat it to remove it(maybe if you can clock it and get the temp really high just once but what if it doesnt work......). Then you are in a real jam. I'm looking for the threads with the photos of the chunks broken out but they are the worst photos of chip destruction deformation i have ever seen. The inside of the wafer is black and silvery just like those huge silicon crystals they cut the wafers from.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well I have CLU on my CPU - no troubles for the time being
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a little confused by your post - but no worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't this also depend on the motherboard dude?
> I'll take pics of when I SLI my cards - but there will be a clear space between them. Small it may be, but there will be space


1)Getting a bit off topic but ... CLU doesn't seem to be as problematic as CLP and I agree see *[HERE]*

2) Yes motherboards can make a difference but don't forget the R 290's Lawson is looking to buy are "3 slot" cards compared to yours and mine "2 slot" 680gtx's


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i see your point and yes they are really close...however think of a CPU it can have a massive heat sink to dissipate the heat!...now if you made that heat sink half as big there would indeed be more air around the CPU instead metal dissipating the heat!...i don't think it will make any difference really because in that gap would be just fresh air doing nothing...but with these its all heatsink and no wasted space!...and you have to think if i have one card with the same GPU but a smaller heat sink and one with a massive heat sink but they still have the same heat to dissipate weather i have 2 massive heat sinks or one big one and one small one...by rights surly the bigger the heat sink wins ..in fact this is like having one massive heat sink cooling 2 GPU with fans in the middle to further help cooing!...i think i am going to take the risk and still get the 2..also i have very good cooling in my case...2x120mm 1800 rpm in the front pulling air in ..1x 120mm 1800 rpm at the bottom pulling air up...then the air travels over my water block and CPU and out thought the roof with 2x 120mm 1800rpm pulling the air out the case...


The heatsink isn't the problem, the problem is with that little a gap the fans can't deliver cooling air to the heatsink. But I never tried crossfiring the Powercolors, and magiccase's issue may have been that the 90 degree rotation of the motherboard was preventing the PCS+ cooler from doing its job. So I wish you the best, hope it works out, please report on temps when you do this because I would like a second Powercolor over this Tri-X since crossfiring different cards looks goofy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Doesn't this also depend on the motherboard dude?


There's 2 slots between the cards, won't fit otherwise. And I don't know of a board that offers 3 slots between cards. So I think the pix I showed is the best spacing you can get.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vikrum2083*
> 
> I really appreciate you attempting to help me. Lets give it one more go as I'm sure we can get on the same page. =)
> 
> I purchased the monitor from Korea. I live in the United States. The seller told me I'd get an adapter with my purchase so that I could plug the monitor's electrical Korean prong into an electrical outlet here in the United States. The seller did not in fact include said adapter.
> 
> What he did include was this prong;
> 
> 
> and this brick;
> 
> 
> 
> Will this, which I have, work in place of the Korean prong (1st pic above) that came with it;
> 
> 
> Again, thanks so much!


Ah makes sense! Yeah no worries then - indeed you can - and/or buy a Korea to US plug adapter for your wall (costs like $5 or less I bet).
JUST make sure of one thing:
On the BRICK - does it say: 110v-240v?

I don't want you blowing your monitor. Shouldn't be a problem seeing as you're in the US anyway (low voltage in comparison to the UK/EU)
I don't have the monitor myself but it SHOULD be like that - but I can't be sure.
Ie. if you buy a RADIO from the US and take it to the UK, you would blow it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The reason the Powercolors are so close is they are a 3 slot card compared to the normal 2 slot. I really wanted to run my 2nd card in the lowest slot, but it wont work that way for SLI, unless it was 3 cards. Anyhow, I have enough space.


ah ha! that makes sense! Yup my 680s are 2 slot ones.
THE MORE YOU KNOW








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> As long as any power cable you have fits into the brick, its fine. Many have used the existing power cables they have on their current monitor.


Well confirmation right there for you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Heh. Perhaps this?
> That's what I use.


yup read up about it after you posted (via a OCN poster too) - makes sense - what I was trying to say was that.
"Supersampling" not "upscaling" is what I meant.
I had the right idea, just the wrong terminology hehe!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 1)Getting a bit off topic but ... CLU doesn't seem to be as problematic as CLP and I agree see *[HERE]*
> 
> 2) Yes motherboards can make a difference but don't forget the R 290's Lawson is looking to buy are "3 slot" cards compared to yours and mine "2 slot" 680gtx's


1. Haha yeah CLU > CLP - but very very marginally.
I bought CLU because I preferred its composition in paste, over the more "liquid" CLP.
Also easier application AND removal of CLU over CLP.

2.Indeed my bad for missing that out!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> There's 2 slots between the cards, won't fit otherwise. And I don't know of a board that offers 3 slots between cards. So I think the pix I showed is the best spacing you can get.


Indeed I missed / didn't think of that


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> The heatsink isn't the problem, the problem is with that little a gap the fans can't deliver cooling air to the heatsink. But I never tried crossfiring the Powercolors, and magiccase's issue may have been that the 90 degree rotation of the motherboard was preventing the PCS+ cooler from doing its job. So I wish you the best, hope it works out, please report on temps when you do this because I would like a second Powercolor over this Tri-X since crossfiring different cards looks goofy.


I think i will be fine as my side door apart from having lower side fans... also have a side window that bulges out about 3 inches wider than the case it self is..below is a quick picture i just took looking though the window into the case and you can clearly see that there will be plenty of air flow around the cards even if there is only millimetres between them!... from the width of my case and this lovely bulging outwards window!...of course i will also do the lots of temp testing and let you know how i get on temps wise...but i feel i should be fine as its not as if they are enclosed in a case where no air can get over or around them












Edit: And underneath those cards you see in the picture is a 120mm 1800rpm fan blowing upwards ...apart from 2x 80mm side fans in the sides and a further 2x 120mm 1800rpm fan brining in air from the front of the case...and this air is then being pulled out at the top of the case by 2x 120mm 1800rpm fans in the roof


----------



## lawson67

Nvm


----------



## Sandi1127

Hi, I was planning to order a qnix qx2710 but I rather prefer a glossy coating which in case of the qnix would cost me double the original price. I came across this monitor:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/27-New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Glossy-Screen-MONEX-M27QSM-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/321328611843?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad0ad8203

It has a glossy PLS panel for the same price as the qnix matte PLS . If they use the same panel ( which they probably do ) is there any reason I shouldn`t buy this over the qnix ?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sandi1127*
> 
> Hi, I was planning to order a qnix qx2710 but I rather prefer a glossy coating which in case of the qnix would cost me double the original price. I came across this monitor:
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/27-New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Glossy-Screen-MONEX-M27QSM-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/321328611843?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad0ad8203
> 
> It has a glossy PLS panel for the same price as the qnix matte PLS . If they use the same panel ( which they probably do ) is there any reason I shouldn`t buy this over the qnix ?


The only one I can think of is that the Monex doesn't overclock (much), if that matters to you.


----------



## Sandi1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The only one I can think of is that the Monex doesn't overclock (much), if that matters to you.


Hmm.. and I just saw that the Monex has a slightly different case and I am planning to remove the stand. I am not sure if the existing tutorials work with this case &#8230; I guess I might just stick to the qnix .


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sandi1127*
> 
> Hmm.. and I just saw that the Monex has a slightly different case and I am planning to remove the stand. I am not sure if the existing tutorials work with this case &#8230; I guess I might just stick to the qnix .


Why not the X-star? Maybe there's a glossy version of that more readily available?


----------



## Sandi1127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Why not the X-star? Maybe there's a glossy version of that more readily available?


Same price as the qnix for a glossy one . There is a a Tempered Glass version available but that`s not really what I want .


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sandi1127*
> 
> Hi, I was planning to order a qnix qx2710 but I rather prefer a glossy coating which in case of the qnix would cost me double the original price. I came across this monitor:
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/27-New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Glossy-Screen-MONEX-M27QSM-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/321328611843?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad0ad8203
> 
> It has a glossy PLS panel for the same price as the qnix matte PLS . If they use the same panel ( which they probably do ) is there any reason I shouldn`t buy this over the qnix ?


There is a member selling some of these in the marketplace here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1471658/for-sale-x3-glossy-qnix-2560x1440-pls-120hz-stable-zero-dead-pixels

You can get them cheaper from him and pixel perfect. Only issue is he might not sell them to you based on you being such a new member.


----------



## Watagump

This is like a merry go round, someone bought this one from Amazon, the seller lists it as glossy, but for the price, I get the feeling its a tempered glass version. Now the confusing part, the same seller on Amazon sells one listed as tempered glass. So as of now, I still cannot prove if the Amazon seller is selling a true glossy, the price doesn't make sense compared to ebay. I just checked and the tempered glass version no longer appears as being sold by the guy in the link, just glossy from him.

Glossy http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394488694&sr=8-1&keywords=qnix+qx2710+glossy


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> This is like a merry go round, someone bought this one from Amazon, the seller lists it as glossy, but for the price, I get the feeling its a tempered glass version. Now the confusing part, the same seller on Amazon sells one listed as tempered glass. So as of now, I still cannot prove if the Amazon seller is selling a true glossy, the price doesn't make sense compared to ebay. I just checked and the tempered glass version no longer appears as being sold by the guy in the link, just glossy from him.
> 
> Glossy http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394488694&sr=8-1&keywords=qnix+qx2710+glossy


you can always contact the seller, unless you're desperate


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sandi1127*
> 
> Same price as the qnix for a glossy one . There is a a Tempered Glass version available but that`s not really what I want .


Some things to consider the monex is a true glossy according to NCX also his did *not* overclock!...however the build quality was better than the Qnix and i believe the stand does indeed come of without having to open the case up like you have to do with the Qnix to remove the stands swan neck...more info on the monex in the link below...however apart from the fact that it does not overclock ( or NCX one did not overclock ) they sound pretty good value for money if you do not mind about overclocking.

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14903-monex-m27qsm-review-glossy-2560x1440-pls.html

Edit: also i would not even consider a Tempered Glass Qnix


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> you can always contact the seller, unless you're desperate


I thought about doing just that, yet I couldn't find anything to click to contact them.


----------



## bcham

yea i have the monex nice glossy monitor well built and no blb or dead pixels,but mine only overclocks to 65mhz.but not to bothered,


----------



## lawson67

Ok i am now thinking of buying these cards linked below!.... however will they be ok to crossfire one being a gigabyte windforce and one being a powercolor?...i was thinking of i put the windforce in the top slot and the powercolor in the bottom slot that way i should have a nice cooling gap between the 2 cards...so all i need the graphic cards experts boys to jump in and tell me if this combination will work?...thanks guys

Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card

http://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/Powercolor+Radeon+R9+290+PCS%2B+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+?productId=59731

Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 OC 4GB AMD PCI Express Graphics Card

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/4gb-gigabyte-radeon-r9-290-oc-28nm-5000mhz-gddr5-gpu-1040mhz-2560-streams-dp-dvi-hdmi

Can i crossfire these 2 cards?

Edit: on then webpage link for the Gigabyte windforce if you scroll below in the specs there is an X where it say crossfire as if this card can NOT be crossfired ?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok i am now thinking of buying these cards linked below!.... however will they be ok to crossfire one being a gigabyte windforce and one being a powercolor?...i was thinking of i put the windforce in the top slot and the powercolor in the bottom slot that way i should have a nice cooling gap between the 2 cards...so all i need the graphic cards experts boys to jump in and tell me if this combination will work?...thanks guys
> 
> Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
> 
> http://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/Powercolor+Radeon+R9+290+PCS%2B+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+?productId=59731
> 
> Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 OC 4GB AMD PCI Express Graphics Card
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/4gb-gigabyte-radeon-r9-290-oc-28nm-5000mhz-gddr5-gpu-1040mhz-2560-streams-dp-dvi-hdmi
> 
> Can i crossfire these 2 cards?
> 
> Edit: on then webpage link for the Gigabyte windforce if you scroll below in the specs there is an X where it say crossfire as if this card can NOT be crossfired ?


The GB card does not have a CF connection on the card.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The GB card does not have a CF connection on the card.


Yeah i have been reading they do indeed crossfire but though the PCIE 3.0 port....NO R90 or R90X has crossfire connection its all done though PCIE port no bridge needed!...also i have been reading some horror stoys about the gigabyte card with bad bios and bad cooloing...now thinking about just staying with origanal plan buying 2 powercolors lol


----------



## Skye12977

I bought an Xstar monitor not even a month ago, and recently a dead spot the size of the eraser end of pencil appeared.
Anyone know what I could do about this?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yeah i have been reading they do indeed crossfire but though the PCIE 3.0 port....NO R90 or R90X has crossfire connection its all done though PCIE port..also i have been reading some horror stoys about the gigabyte card with bad bios and bad cooloing...now thinking about just staying with origanal plan buying 2 powercolors lol


I was just checking my info also. I did notice that other cards also didn't have the CF connection, so I was wrong. Now searching at newegg, if you use CF support in the filters, the GB isnt on the list, so take that with a grain of salt. I thought all AMD cards could do CF now a days, the lack of the connection through me off.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skye12977*
> 
> I bought an Xstar monitor not even a month ago, and recently a dead spot the size of the eraser end of pencil appeared.
> Anyone know what I could do about this?


Oh does not sound good post a picture please

Also all info please like.... are you using Nvida or AMD?....are you using SLI or CF ?...how are you overclocking are you using CRU or NVCP or not?...are you using custom timing?...what refresh rate are you using?...is this defect still seen at 60hz?... as much info as possible please thanks


----------



## digitalforce

I just submitted an offer to Excellentcastle for the new Qnix TRUE10. I'll keep everyone updated.

Also, I just ordered a Overlord Tempest 270 Glossy 120hz to test as well


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I just submitted an offer to Excellentcastle for the new Qnix TRUE10. I'll keep everyone updated.
> 
> Also, I just ordered a Overlord Tempest 270 Glossy 120hz to test as well


Sure takes them long enough to get some in stock.


----------



## Skye12977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Oh does not sound good post a picture please
> 
> Also all info please like.... are you using Nvida or AMD?....are you using SLI or CF ?...how are you overclocking are you using CRU or NVCP or not?...are you using custom timing?...what refresh rate are you using?...is this defect still seen at 60hz?... as much info as possible please thanks


Brothers build is which has the bad screen, can do full specs tomorrow
He is using a single msi 780 lightning for 3 of the 27 inch Xstar monitors, one of which has the display port.
He upped his refresh rate to whichever one is in between 60 and 120 (I'd say 90, but doesn't sound right)

Nvidia GTX 780 Lightning
no
"how are you overclocking are you using CRU or NVCP or not?...are you using custom timing?" will have to ask him tomorrow
refreshed rate is whichever is 'typically' used above 60hertz
I'll try and put the screen back down to 60 hertz tomorrow

Main specs of computer iirm:
3570k @4.9ghz
Msi Mpower z77
Kingston HyperX Beast 2x4gb @2400
Msi 780 Lightning over volted to 1.3 or 1.4 (I'll check for sure tomorrow) +280 core clock +750 memory
EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I just submitted an offer to Excellentcastle for the new Qnix TRUE10. I'll keep everyone updated.
> 
> Also, I just ordered a Overlord Tempest 270 Glossy 120hz to test as well


Top man Digital i am very interested in this monitor ( The new Qnix TRUE10 ) and lt looks like you and yours are going to be my guinea pig test bench LOL


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Top man Digital i am very interested in this monitor ( The new Qnix TRUE10 ) and lt looks like you and yours are going to be my guinea pig test bench LOL


What is the difference between the 2710 and True10? What are the benefits?

ALSO:

It is worth noting that I tried to make a large purchase of monitors from excellent castle and she said that the 2710 are going to be 'disappeared' soon.. Which, obviously means this gravy train is coming to an end and they have no more in stock to buy up. Perhaps Samsung got their manufacturing standards together, or went elsewhere. Regardless, I'm debating as to whether or not I should buy up another so I have matching eyefinity (if I want that).

Does anyone run quadfire 290x that could tell me what to expect for FPS in BF4?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

These guys got back to me on eBay:
1. all 2560x1440 monitors gave a backlight bleeding which the manufacturer considers it is not defective.
But we test it before shipping all colors are fine except for Black color.
Ultimate perfect pixel means 0 dead pixel.

2. we can mark as gift and declare lower value as request.

3. The custom fee will be charged from custom though we do,
that is for buyer'r right to pay.

thank you
Steve
- excellentcastle

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271375013937&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sandi1127*
> 
> Hi, I was planning to order a qnix qx2710 but I rather prefer a glossy coating which in case of the qnix would cost me double the original price. I came across this monitor:
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/27-New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Glossy-Screen-MONEX-M27QSM-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/321328611843?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad0ad8203
> 
> It has a glossy PLS panel for the same price as the qnix matte PLS . If they use the same panel ( which they probably do ) is there any reason I shouldn`t buy this over the qnix ?


Look what just cropped up on eBay via US:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-27-Hi-Res-2560x1440p-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/251469894752?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3a8cc61460

(not me)


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Look what just cropped up on eBay via US:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-27-Hi-Res-2560x1440p-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/251469894752?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3a8cc61460
> 
> (not me)


Lets have a contest, what will it sell for?


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Top man Digital i am very interested in this monitor ( The new Qnix TRUE10 ) and lt looks like you and yours are going to be my guinea pig test bench LOL


Yes, I am excited for the showdown between my Qnix Glossy vs Overlord Tempest Glossy vs New Qnix TRUE10 -- MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!


----------



## bluedevil

I still am on the fence on getting a Xstar DP2710/Qnix QX2710 due to my GPU. Anyone reckon what they get with 7870 on Med? Namely BF4?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Look what just cropped up on eBay via US:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-27-Hi-Res-2560x1440p-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/251469894752?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3a8cc61460
> 
> (not me)


I noticed you are from England i am guessing not new England U.S.A but UK England....if you are i want to make you aware of the UK Square trade warranty in case you want one!...and when you decide which monitor you are going to buy!..I bought a Square trade 3 year warranty plan for my Qnix...i have also linked Square Trade UK website below...It is worth noting that if you are NOT offered a Square Trade policy at the point of sale you have 60 days to register your new monitor with Square Trade after the purchase date to take advantage of there warranty's!...I hope this helps as many do not know that Square trade operate in the UK as well as the U.S

Square trade UK phone number:- 0808 189 1453

Square trade UK website link:- http://www.squaretrade.co.uk/uk-aboutus

Also the same monitor you have been looking at but on Ebay UK

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Lets have a contest, what will it sell for?


$380 is my guess.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I noticed you are from England i am guessing not new England U.S.A but UK England....if you are i want to make you aware of the UK Square trade warranty in case you want one!...and when you decide which monitor you are going to buy!..I bought a Square trade 3 year warranty plan for my Qnix...i have also linked Square Trade UK website below...It is worth noting that if you are NOT offered a Square Trade policy at the point of sale you have 60 days to register your new monitor with Square Trade after the purchase date to take advantage of there warranty's!...I hope this helps as many do not know that Square trade operate in the UK as well as the U.S
> 
> Square trade UK phone number:- 0808 189 1453
> 
> Square trade UK website link:- http://www.squaretrade.co.uk/uk-aboutus
> 
> Also the same monitor you have been looking at but on Ebay UK
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831


Hey mate - yeah from the UK!
I have SquareTrade in fact with my Samsung S3.
Thanks for making me aware - going to do that too I think! Well worth the price.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> $380 is my guess.
> Hey mate - yeah from the UK!
> I have SquareTrade in fact with my Samsung S3.
> Thanks for making me aware - going to do that too I think! Well worth the price.


AHH i guessed right ..hello mate!...and yes Indeed it is i was more than happy with my 3 year warranty on my Qnix for only 41 Quid...i thought that was a result!


----------



## Strickt

Hey guys, been messing around with DayZ and it look like I'm getting textures popping in and out when at 120hz but not at 96hz. Does this make sense? Could the refresh rate mess with textures?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> AHH i guessed right ..hello mate!...and yes Indeed it is i was more than happy with my 3 year warranty on my Qnix for only 41 Quid...i thought that was a result!


£41? I saw £54 on Amazon!
What's your claim at? £200-250 right?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> £41? I saw £54 on Amazon!
> What's your claim at? £200-250 right?


Yes you are right £200 - £250 i think she charged me £41 over the phone when i called them...ill get the policy out and check in a few









Edit:- Yes it was £41 for cover between £200-£250 electrical item insurance...and they asked for a copy of my paypal receipt for my Qnix


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> AHH i guessed right ..hello mate!...and yes Indeed it is i was more than happy with my 3 year warranty on my Qnix for only 41 Quid...i thought that was a result!


You dang foreigners and your funky money, I have NO idea how much you are talking about.


----------



## Cypher100

What are the risks for overclocking a qnix qx2710 to 90hz? Early death? Dead pixels? Overheating? I'm just checking I got mine to 90hz and not sure if it's safe to keep it at the for everyday use.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You dang foreigners and your funky money, I have NO idea how much you are talking about.


Its coded UK talk


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cypher100*
> 
> What are the risks for overclocking a qnix qx2710 to 90hz? Early death? Dead pixels? Overheating? I'm just checking I got mine to 90hz and not sure if it's safe to keep it at the for everyday use.


I run 120hz 24/7 and not worried i am damaging mine one bit...you should be fine


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I still am on the fence on getting a Xstar DP2710/Qnix QX2710 due to my GPU. Anyone reckon what they get with 7870 on Med? Namely BF4?


You can get an estimate by using resolution scaling in the options. Just increase it to match what you want (so 125% if you have a 1080p monitor, I believe) and the video card will be rendering at 1440p internally. Should give you an idea of what you can get.


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Hey guys, been messing around with DayZ and it look like I'm getting textures popping in and out when at 120hz but not at 96hz. Does this make sense? Could the refresh rate mess with textures?


Not sure tbh. When I run 120hz I get a green horizontal line across the middle of the screen that comes and goes. I don't know if that could be mistaken for texture pop.

Is it even possible to get 120 fps in DayZ though?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You can get an estimate by using resolution scaling in the options. Just increase it to match what you want (so 125% if you have a 1080p monitor, I believe) and the video card will be rendering at 1440p internally. Should give you an idea of what you can get.


Oh sweet!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cypher100*
> 
> What are the risks for overclocking a qnix qx2710 to 90hz? Early death? Dead pixels? Overheating? I'm just checking I got mine to 90hz and not sure if it's safe to keep it at the for everyday use.


I run 120hz 24/7 and not worried i am damaging mine one bit that's my personal opinion of course!.. But remember we do not need to over volt these to overclock them i also know Sparton runs his at 120hz 24/7 with no problems...if i was throwing more voltage at the PCB to be able to overclock it yes i would more Couscous but we are not...i believe you should be fine.


----------



## Watagump

Here is some info from another forum talking about the panels, its suppose to be a response from green-sum, ebay seller. Someone said they didnt think they were producing glossy anymore.

They are and they are not.

If you get one without a piece of glass on it, somehow it slipped by them. They're only producing glossy panels with tempered glass due to their supposed reason of too many returns due to the finish scratching. My current X-Star's coating is closer to the original glossy than Matte, so I kept it, that and the fact its as close to perfect as I could ask from these.

From Green-Sum, and why you're incredibly stupid if you give this guy your money.

Hello, this is Green sum.

We are sorry that if you have any inconvenience with the monitor.
We are seller and we are providing the items from the manufacture. The all of information about the items is from them.

We've never lied and we've never avoide the issue. We've been already trying to our best service for our customers.

If there would be problems and it would be necessary to return the item, the manufacture does not support the shipping cost and extra. There are all our service chage as the seller on ebay.

So we hope you could not misunderstand that information and issue. We are going to writing to inform about the panel as well.

Your monitor is glossy version actually.
In the past, the manufacturer released the monitor in three different versions, glare, anti-glare, and tempered glass.
Panel without coating was glossy, so it was called glossy panel. However, this panel had lots of problems and very weak from shock and scratches. So the manufacturer no longer produce monitors without any coating. And panel with anti-glare coating and tempered glass is actually glare.
So the manufacturer now produces two versions, glossy and matte. You might feel a little confused, but literally, tempered glass version is one of glare panels as it is glare.
FYI, AH-IPS panel, which is used for YAMAKASI, CROSSOVER, and ACHIEVA, is also anti-glare coated panel with tempered glass. And they call it glare panel. The difference is just the panel is thinner and has better quality than S-IPS panel, which is previous version.

Also, you could check the "G" on the original box that means "Gossy" as well.

If you have other questions of it, please feel free to contact us.

BTW,
Even though the manufacture confirmed the monitor is glossy, but if you could not satisfied with it, we would like to suggest the solution.
If you would like to return, we could proceed it.

If you could keep the item and monitor does not have defective, we could suggest the partial refund.


----------



## digitalforce

I hate trying to do business in broken English 

I also tried to get an ORIGINAL glossy from Green-sum. My response was even more difficult to understand... just sayin.









I will be testing the Qnix Glossy vs New Qnix 2710 True10 vs Overlord Tempest Glossy this weekend. I will be sure to post results to all so that may help their decision. Also, I will have some monitors for sale here in the USA. Whatever I don't keep, it's yours for a good deal


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I hate trying to do business in broken English
> 
> I also tried to get an ORIGINAL glossy from Green-sum. My response was even more difficult to understand... just sayin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be testing the Qnix Glossy vs New Qnix 2710 True10 vs Overlord Tempest Glossy this weekend. I will be sure to post results to all so that may help their decision. Also, I will have some monitors for sale here in the USA. Whatever I don't keep, it's yours for a good deal


Trust me I agree with you 100% on the broken English. I have called customer service lines before, they are all in India, I have told them to transfer me to someone else cause some of their accents are so hard to understand. When you are done with the Tempest, I will take it for $50 shipped.


----------



## jourelemode

guys, quick question....

asus gtx 780 dcuii oc OR asus r9 290 dcuii oc?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Wow, I don't check this thread for a day and there are over 150 new posts.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> guys, quick question....
> 
> asus gtx 780 dcuii oc OR asus r9 290 dcuii oc?


Based on speed, the R9 290.


----------



## jourelemode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Based on speed, the R9 290.


that's what i figured...looks like ill be ditching my 770 then.

thanks bro!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> that's what i figured...looks like ill be ditching my 770 then.
> 
> thanks bro!


Cheaper route would be add another 770. I guess you might not be a fan of dual GPU's?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> guys, quick question....
> 
> asus gtx 780 dcuii oc OR asus r9 290 dcuii oc?


The cooler on the Asus 290 is not supposed to be all that great - all the heatpipes don't touch the core and so it doesn't cool as well as the Gigabyte, Sapphire, or Powercolor cards.


----------



## jourelemode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Cheaper route would be add another 770. I guess you might not be a fan of dual GPU's?


I don't mind the dual gpu thing, but it'll be cheaper for me to go with the r9 290 because I can get it locally for 552.99

my 770 is still currently 339.00 so if I get another, it would actually be a total cost of 678.00, I forgot to mention that my current 770 is still under the timeframe for returns, not but a week old.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> The cooler on the Asus 290 is not supposed to be all that great - all the heatpipes don't touch the core and so it doesn't cool as well as the Gigabyte, Sapphire, or Powercolor cards.


ic, but is it detrimental? only way for me to get a good price is to pick up the card locally, and none of those are available, only the asus card

thanks for the replies bros!


----------



## DBCoopa

I'd go for the r9 290, adding an extra GTX 770 isn't really futureproof.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is some info from another forum talking about the panels, its suppose to be a response from green-sum, ebay seller. Someone said they didnt think they were producing glossy anymore.
> 
> They are and they are not.
> 
> If you get one without a piece of glass on it, somehow it slipped by them. They're only producing glossy panels with tempered glass due to their supposed reason of too many returns due to the finish scratching. My current X-Star's coating is closer to the original glossy than Matte, so I kept it, that and the fact its as close to perfect as I could ask from these.
> 
> From Green-Sum, and why you're incredibly stupid if you give this guy your money.
> 
> Hello, this is Green sum.
> 
> We are sorry that if you have any inconvenience with the monitor.
> We are seller and we are providing the items from the manufacture. The all of information about the items is from them.
> 
> We've never lied and we've never avoide the issue. We've been already trying to our best service for our customers.
> 
> If there would be problems and it would be necessary to return the item, the manufacture does not support the shipping cost and extra. There are all our service chage as the seller on ebay.
> 
> So we hope you could not misunderstand that information and issue. We are going to writing to inform about the panel as well.
> 
> Your monitor is glossy version actually.
> In the past, the manufacturer released the monitor in three different versions, glare, anti-glare, and tempered glass.
> Panel without coating was glossy, so it was called glossy panel. However, this panel had lots of problems and very weak from shock and scratches. So the manufacturer no longer produce monitors without any coating. And panel with anti-glare coating and tempered glass is actually glare.
> So the manufacturer now produces two versions, glossy and matte. You might feel a little confused, but literally, tempered glass version is one of glare panels as it is glare.
> FYI, AH-IPS panel, which is used for YAMAKASI, CROSSOVER, and ACHIEVA, is also anti-glare coated panel with tempered glass. And they call it glare panel. The difference is just the panel is thinner and has better quality than S-IPS panel, which is previous version.
> 
> Also, you could check the "G" on the original box that means "Gossy" as well.
> 
> If you have other questions of it, please feel free to contact us.
> 
> BTW,
> Even though the manufacture confirmed the monitor is glossy, but if you could not satisfied with it, we would like to suggest the solution.
> If you would like to return, we could proceed it.
> 
> If you could keep the item and monitor does not have defective, we could suggest the partial refund.


Wow that is pretty bad.

Here is Glossy vs tempered glass.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes you are right £200 - £250 i think she charged me £41 over the phone when i called them...ill get the policy out and check in a few
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:- Yes it was £41 for cover between £200-£250 electrical item insurance...and they asked for a copy of my paypal receipt for my Qnix


thanks bro! When I get the monitor in I'll do that + rep again


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I hate trying to do business in broken English
> 
> I also tried to get an ORIGINAL glossy from Green-sum. My response was even more difficult to understand... just sayin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be testing the Qnix Glossy vs New Qnix 2710 True10 vs Overlord Tempest Glossy this weekend. I will be sure to post results to all so that may help their decision. Also, I will have some monitors for sale here in the USA. Whatever I don't keep, it's yours for a good deal


I await your review of the True10. Got my monitor refunded and now they upped the price. dont fail me now!


----------



## karkee

I just got my Qnix, I am stunned I wanted a 1440P with the ability to handle more then 60hz(wich I cant stand anymore).

Atm I overclocked it in nvidia panel to 96hz, and its great!!!

The picture quality is also so good, even if I had a budget of 800dollars I bought this instead of other brands for the overclock and I couldnt be happier.

At the moment it says at my monitor "Dual DVI", should I install a driver? And should I use a color profile? I am using 96hz atm.


----------



## Optimus1978

Very nice Karkee - hope to have the same experience soon , also be interested on the responses you get to your questions

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## karkee

Also got some more question about either a good stand for this or if anyone ever used an ergotron or Vogels monitor arm with this.

The stand has to be replaced as this one is a little to wobly its not disturbing but I still would like some other vesa solution for it.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> I don't mind the dual gpu thing, but it'll be cheaper for me to go with the r9 290 because I can get it locally for 552.99
> 
> my 770 is still currently 339.00 so if I get another, it would actually be a total cost of 678.00, I forgot to mention that my current 770 is still under the timeframe for returns, not but a week old.
> ic, but is it detrimental? only way for me to get a good price is to pick up the card locally, and none of those are available, only the asus card
> 
> thanks for the replies bros!


Well, the 770 in SLI is much better. If we were not talking such high resolution, I would say go for a better single card.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well, the 770 in SLI is much better. If we were not talking such high resolution, I would say go for a better single card.


I had to choose between 780 and SLI 680.
I chose SLI 680 as it comes out on top.

Problem with SLI is drivers etc. That aside, FPS wise - you'll get more from an SLI setup (usually when you compare performance to buck ratio)


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You can get an estimate by using resolution scaling in the options. Just increase it to match what you want (so 125% if you have a 1080p monitor, I believe) and the video card will be rendering at 1440p internally. Should give you an idea of what you can get.


I just figured out that this is actually quite incorrect. If one has a 1080P monitor and was wondering what performance in BF4 is with a 1440P monitor, you should set resolution scaling to 180% (178% actual). 1440P carries 78% more pixels than 1080P.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I had to choose between 780 and SLI 680.
> I chose SLI 680 as it comes out on top.
> 
> Problem with SLI is drivers etc. That aside, FPS wise - you'll get more from an SLI setup (usually when you compare performance to buck ratio)


Well, there will always be driver issues with SLI or CF it seems. Nothing is perfect, the bottom line is, I have yet to have an issue with SLI, this is my first time doing it though. I have 5 games installed, none of them seem to have any issues. There isnt any magical solution here, SLI will be faster, in the PC world, most times you spend more you get more.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well, there will always be driver issues with SLI or CF it seems. Nothing is perfect, the bottom line is, I have yet to have an issue with SLI, this is my first time doing it though. I have 5 games installed, none of them seem to have any issues. There isnt any magical solution here, SLI will be faster, in the PC world, most times you spend more you get more.


oh we have almost the same system







!
You're getting bottlenecked btw with your i5


----------



## lawson67

Right my graphics cards have been bought and paid for now at last and will arrive tomorrow!....in the top slot will be a Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 WindForce 3X OC 4096MB....and in the bottom slot will be a Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5 ...links below to both of them...I just hope i have made the right decision?.. Also there will be space between these cards as opposed to having 2 power colors cards with only a 2mm gap between them with this set up!

Also the Gigabyte windforce card comes with Battlefield 4 limited Edition..i already have bought this so of anyone wants to buy a highly discounted Battlefield 4 limited Edition key let me know









Power color card
http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Graphics+Cards/AMD+Radeon/Radeon+R9+290/Powercolor+Radeon+R9+290+PCS%2B+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+?productId=59731

Gigabyte Windforce card with Battlefield 4 limited Edition
http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Graphics+Cards/AMD+Radeon/Radeon+R9+290/Gigabyte+Radeon+R9+290+OC+WindForce+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+%28GV-R929OC-4GD-GA%29+%2B+BATTLEFIELD+4+GAME%21+?productId=59559


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> oh we have almost the same system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> You're getting bottlenecked btw with your i5


Bottle necked? I don't think so. GPU > CPU, always has been always will be.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Right my graphics cards have been bought and paid for now at last and will arrive tomorrow!....in the top slot will be a Gigabyte Radeon R9 290X WindForce 3X OC 4096MB....and in the bottom slot will be a Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5 ...links below to both of them...I just hope i have made the right decision?.. and there will be space between the cards with this set up for cooling
> 
> Also the Gigabyte windforce card comes with Battlefield 4 limited Edition..i already have bought this so of anyone wants to buy a highly discounted Battlefield 4 limited Edition key let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power color card
> http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Graphics+Cards/AMD+Radeon/Radeon+R9+290/Powercolor+Radeon+R9+290+PCS%2B+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+?productId=59731
> 
> Gigabyte Windforce card with Battlefield 4 limited Edition
> http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Graphics+Cards/AMD+Radeon/Radeon+R9+290/Gigabyte+Radeon+R9+290X+WindForce+3X+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+-+Battlefield+4+Edition+?productId=59327


You should be fine, people still buy games?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Right my graphics cards have been bought and paid for now at last and will arrive tomorrow!....in the top slot will be a Gigabyte Radeon R9 290X WindForce 3X OC 4096MB....and in the bottom slot will be a Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5 ...links below to both of them...I just hope i have made the right decision?.. Also there will be space between these cards as opposed to having 2 power colors cards with only a 2mm gap between them with this set up!
> 
> Also the Gigabyte windforce card comes with Battlefield 4 limited Edition..i already have bought this so of anyone wants to buy a highly discounted Battlefield 4 limited Edition key let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power color card
> http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Graphics+Cards/AMD+Radeon/Radeon+R9+290/Powercolor+Radeon+R9+290+PCS%2B+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+?productId=59731
> 
> Gigabyte Windforce card with Battlefield 4 limited Edition
> http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Graphics+Cards/AMD+Radeon/Radeon+R9+290/Gigabyte+Radeon+R9+290X+WindForce+3X+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+-+Battlefield+4+Edition+?productId=59327


I'm interested for my older cousin, depends on price







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Bottle necked? I don't think so. GPU > CPU, always has been always will be.


check out my bf4 thread in my Sig, you'll see what I mean.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Bottle necked? I don't think so. GPU > CPU, always has been always will be.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> check out my bf4 thread in my Sig, you'll see what I mean.


You would be hard pressed to bottleneck from the CPU with a 1440p resolution. Even with a old phenom II x6 [email protected] i get no bottlenecking on my GTX780ti except for console port games that are severely CPU dependent. An i5 is definitely no slouch especially compared to a phenom II. If you were still running 1080p this is a very different story. I was seeing very obvious bottlenecking with my 144hz 1080p Asus screen. With 1440p though there is enough GPU work to give the CPU time to keep up even being a bit slow paired with the GPU.

If you do get some bottlenecking with certain games it is best to make use of that GPU and turn on some more GPU specific settings to improve clarity. Depending on how bad the bottleneck is you wont see much difference in FPS. Like in borderlands i get around 80FPS but there is about a 35% bottleneck. I can either crank up the AA settings or downsample to 4K and see virtually NO difference in FPS. Granted this will only be heavy CPU dependent games. I don't have any issues with newer GPU optimized games at all(including BF4).


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You should be fine, people still buy games?


Only if you want to play it online


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Right my graphics cards have been bought and paid for now at last and will arrive tomorrow!....in the top slot will be a Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 WindForce 3X OC 4096MB....and in the bottom slot will be a Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5 ...links below to both of them...I just hope i have made the right decision?.. Also there will be space between these cards as opposed to having 2 power colors cards with only a 2mm gap between them with this set up!
> 
> Also the Gigabyte windforce card comes with Battlefield 4 limited Edition..i already have bought this so of anyone wants to buy a highly discounted Battlefield 4 limited Edition key let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power color card
> http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Graphics+Cards/AMD+Radeon/Radeon+R9+290/Powercolor+Radeon+R9+290+PCS%2B+OC+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+?productId=59731
> 
> Gigabyte Windforce card with Battlefield 4 limited Edition
> http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Graphics+Cards/AMD+Radeon/Radeon+R9+290/Gigabyte+Radeon+R9+290+OC+WindForce+4096MB+GDDR5+PCI-Express+Graphics+Card+%28GV-R929OC-4GD-GA%29+%2B+BATTLEFIELD+4+GAME%21+?productId=59559


Congrats Lawson! I can't wait to hear about your results!


----------



## Watagump

I am a pretty simple guy when it comes to my gaming. I play them, if they are smooth, that's all I care about. I am running 60hz, not 120hz, I can peg out all of my games with my setup. BF4 only takes 2 settings to make that smooth, but even then, the rest is on Ultra.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You should be fine, people still buy games?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Only if you want to play it online


Filthy pirates!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> You would be hard pressed to bottleneck from the CPU with a 1440p resolution. Even with a old phenom II x6 [email protected] i get no bottlenecking on my GTX780ti except for console port games that are severely CPU dependent. An i5 is definitely no slouch especially compared to a phenom II. If you were still running 1080p this is a very different story. I was seeing very obvious bottlenecking with my 144hz 1080p Asus screen. With 1440p though there is enough GPU work to give the CPU time to keep up even being a bit slow paired with the GPU.
> 
> If you do get some bottlenecking with certain games it is best to make use of that GPU and turn on some more GPU specific settings to improve clarity. Depending on how bad the bottleneck is you wont see much difference in FPS. Like in borderlands i get around 80FPS but there is about a 35% bottleneck. I can either crank up the AA settings or downsample to 4K and see virtually NO difference in FPS. Granted this will only be heavy CPU dependent games. I don't have any issues with newer GPU optimized games at all(including BF4).


sure, but on what game?
You take BF3 for example - sure you probably won't get MUCH bottleneck.
Takea CPU intensive games (like BF4) and then you'll know the difference when you try it.

Believe me - I tried with and without HT on my i7 - results speak volumes on their own.
Then make it an SLI setup and at a higher res - you're asking for trouble.

I'm just trying to give honest feedback.


----------



## TJD269

Lol tried the 4k res and it worked first try


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Congrats Lawson! I can't wait to hear about your results!


Digital Thank you for all your time effort and help that you have been giving me in here and indeed in PM,s with your advice and knowledge on graphics cards and steering me in the right direction with card compatibility choices and options which will have hopefully resulted in me having a good solid Graphic card set up for a few years to come!....you have been a bloody great help mate i thank you









Edit: and i would also like to thank taem as he also has been a bloody great help with his vast Knowledge or graphic cards and Advice he has give me..thanks Taem


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> I just got my Qnix, I am stunned I wanted a 1440P with the ability to handle more then 60hz(wich I cant stand anymore).
> 
> Atm I overclocked it in nvidia panel to 96hz, and its great!!!
> 
> The picture quality is also so good, even if I had a budget of 800dollars I bought this instead of other brands for the overclock and I couldnt be happier.
> 
> At the moment it says at my monitor "Dual DVI", should I install a driver? And should I use a color profile? I am using 96hz atm.


Glad you love your monitor! I know I love mine









I highly recommend using the driver patch + CRU utility (found on the first page of this thread) as opposed to overclocking via the NVIDIA control panel. I've found that most some games don't recognize the higher refresh rate when overclocking via the NVIDIA control panel. As for the ICC color profiles, they are highly recommended. When you overclock your monitor it causes the gamma to rise resulting in the darkening and dulling of colors. The ICC profile basically counteracts the gamma shift. You can find a handful of ICC color profiles on the first page of this thread. Just be aware that if you use a ICC profile, some games have a tendency of defaulting back to the stock Windows ICC profile. You can easily get around this by using one of the various ICC profile enforcer apps found around on the net, so when this does happen your custom ICC profile will automatically be reapplied. I personally use ICC Keeper. Hope this helps!


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Digital Thank you for all your time effort and help that you have been giving me in here and indeed in PM,s with your advice and knowledge on graphics cards and steering me in the right direction with card compatibility choices and options which will have hopefully resulted in me having a good solid Graphic card set up for a few years to come!....you have been a bloody great help mate i thank you


My pleasure. I've been trolling and leeching off this thread for quite some time I hope to contribute in any way I can. My Overlord Tempest and Qnix TRUE10 should be shipping today. NERDGASM


----------



## jourelemode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well, the 770 in SLI is much better. If we were not talking such high resolution, I would say go for a better single card.


well you guys have definitely given me some things to think about. My only worry with SLI at the moment is the heat on the top card. My tower, nzxt h440 isn't exactly high airflow...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Glad you love your monitor! I know I love mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I highly recommend using the driver patch + CRU utility (found on the first page of this thread) as opposed to overclocking via the NVIDIA control panel. I've found that most some games don't recognize the higher refresh rate when overclocking via the NVIDIA control panel. As for the ICC color profiles, they are highly recommended. When you overclock your monitor it causes the gamma to rise resulting in the darkening and dulling of colors. The ICC profile basically counteracts the gamma shift. You can find a handful of ICC color profiles on the first page of this thread. Just be aware that if you use a ICC profile, some games have a tendency of defaulting back to the stock Windows ICC profile. You can easily get around this by using one of the various ICC profile enforcer apps found around on the net, so when this does happen your custom ICC profile will automatically be reapplied. I personally use ICC Keeper. Hope this helps!


ALL your game will see your Custom resolutions using Nvidia control panel if you use the monitor driver below...and i would advise *NOT* using CRU with Nvidia as CRU uses EDID override which conflict with Nvidia Gefore Experience and Samgung Magicion and can coarse window to NOT see your EDID overrides at all in some cases...so if you are using CRU now i advise to change to monitor driver method by following my directions below this way all your game will see your custom resolution and you will have *no* conflicts at all...also you don't have to worry about updated drivers and Nvida geforce being reinstalled by driver updates..also leaving Nvidia Geforce experience installed and importing the blank-extension.dat into CRU is still far from a perfect fix!... as windows on many occasion will still refuse to see your custom resolutions...so if you are using CRU now i advise you to *stop* using it and install the monitor driver below and start using NVCP to make your custom resolutions by following the guide below,

1: open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...

2: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 3

3: Download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

4: Go to Nvidia control panel and to custom resolutions and make your custom resolutions

5: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience and you will *not* have any conflicts now or with future driver updates with Nvidia Gforce experience being reinstalled...have fun!

Edit:- Also if you want to use my 120hz and 96hz ICC profiles i have linked them below..i made them at 200 cd/m which is for the 120hz profile 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button and at 96hz 17 clicks up from a black screen...i also recommended using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below...Color Sustainer Also helps your Games see and use the ICC profiles!

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html

qnix.zip 0k .zip file


Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## karkee

If I want to use a better stand then the current one what are my options?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> If I want to use a better stand then the current one what are my options?


Many have bought this...i also use it...however i use the base from another stand with it...as it has very big feet but they are very flat




http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003L11FUY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## karkee

Thanks, I also saw the HP one, that one looks a little nicer. The one you showed has indeed a little to big feed









And I also found this one http://www.conrad.be/ce/nl/product/986889/Xergo-Xergo-Apple-monitor-standaard-kantel-en-zwenkbaar-tafelmontage?ref=searchDetail

It is kinda very expensive though 99€


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Many have bought this...i also use it...however i use the base from another stand with it...as it has very big feet but they are very flat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003L11FUY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


feet would be the killer of me - as I like the monitor closer to me lol.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> feet would be the killer of me - as I like the monitor closer to me lol.


Those feet would hang off the end of my desk if fitted...i really don't know why they thought they needed such big feet!


----------



## karkee

http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/615912/NewStar-Products-monitorhouder-Zwart?ref=searchDetail

This one looks really really great


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Those feet would hang off the end of my desk if fitted...i really don't know why they thought they needed such big feet!


You know what they say about big feet.....?

... big ol' socks.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/615912/NewStar-Products-monitorhouder-Zwart?ref=searchDetail
> 
> This one looks really really great


Yes that is nice


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> well you guys have definitely given me some things to think about. My only worry with SLI at the moment is the heat on the top card. My tower, nzxt h440 isn't exactly high airflow...


The Asus cards for the 770 kick butt for cooling. We both have NZXT cases, but yeah, mine is slightly bigger.







Buy another 770 retail just for testing, you can always take it back.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The Asus cards for the 770 kick butt for cooling. We both have NZXT cases, but yeah, mine is slightly bigger.


I think you'll find the MSi's come out on top for cooling


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I think you'll find the MSi's come out on top for cooling


That may be so, but when I was buying mine they were more money, Asus run perfectly cool, people don't need the lowest temps possible, they need safe temps. I just looked at newegg, they are the same price right now, but Asus is a rebate, so factor that in.


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I think you'll find the MSi's come out on top for cooling


I think you will find that is HIGHLY debatable:

http://www.legitreviews.com/msi-geforce-gtx-770-gaming-and-asus-geforce-gtx-770-directcu-ii-review_2202/13

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/63417-asus-gtx-770-directcu-ii-oc-review-9.html

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_770_TF_Gaming/30.html


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> I think you will find that is HIGHLY debatable:
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/msi-geforce-gtx-770-gaming-and-asus-geforce-gtx-770-directcu-ii-review_2202/13
> 
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/63417-asus-gtx-770-directcu-ii-oc-review-9.html
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_770_TF_Gaming/30.html


debatable indeed - but then again, who would you rather deal with Crap-Sus or MSI? lol
PS, I own a Noobtooth Z77


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> ALL your game will see your Custom resolutions using Nvidia control panel if you use the monitor driver below...and i would advise *NOT* using CRU with Nvidia as CRU uses EDID override which conflict with Nvidia Gefore Experience and Samgung Magicion and can coarse window to NOT see your EDID overrides at all in some cases...so if you are using CRU now i advise to change to monitor driver method by following my directions below this way all your game will see your custom resolution and you will have *no* conflicts at all...also you don't have to worry about updated drivers and Nvida geforce being reinstalled by driver updates..also leaving Nvidia Geforce experience installed and importing the blank-extension.dat into CRU is still far from a perfect fix!... as windows on many occasion will still refuse to see your custom resolutions...so if you are using CRU now i advise you to *stop* using it and install the monitor driver below and start using NVCP to make your custom resolutions by following the guide below,
> 
> 1: open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...
> 
> 2: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 3
> 
> 3: Download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/
> 
> 4: Go to Nvidia control panel and to custom resolutions and make your custom resolutions
> 
> 5: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience and you will *not* have any conflicts now or with future driver updates with Nvidia Gforce experience being reinstalled...have fun!
> 
> Edit:- Also if you want to use my 120hz and 96hz ICC profiles i have linked them below..i made them at 200 cd/m which is for the 120hz profile 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button and at 96hz 17 clicks up from a black screen...i also recommended using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below...Color Sustainer Also helps your Games see and use the ICC profiles!
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


I'm talking about the actual refresh rate not the resolution. Some games fail to detect the higher refresh rate if you overclock using the NVIDIA control panel. I am using the CRU method and NVIDIA Experience/Shadowplay still works (For Shadowplay I had to create a custom 1920x1080 @ 100Hz profile in CRU).


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> debatable indeed - but then again, who would you rather deal with Crap-Sus or MSI? lol
> PS, I own a Noobtooth Z77


Huh, I've never had to deal with them. Lets hope I never do lol.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Huh, I've never had to deal with them. Lets hope I never do lol.


I hope you never do too


----------



## exzacklyright

So are there any retailers that REALLY guarantee perfect pixel? I want to get another. I should have bought 2 when I got my first for $260! The only problem with my first is 1 green stuck pixel


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> I'm talking about the actual refresh rate not the resolution. Some games fail to detect the higher refresh rate if you overclock using the NVIDIA control panel. I am using the CRU method and NVIDIA Experience/Shadowplay still works (For Shadowplay I had to create a custom 1920x1080 @ 100Hz profile in CRU).


Using a monitor driver all your Games will see your resolutions and refresh rates!...also if a game is limited to pacific refresh rate say for example 75hz as max!..then nothing will make it see a higher refresh rate be it CRU or NVCP!..also if you are using CRU with Nvidia geforce experience still installed it will be conflicting with CRU EDID overrides even though you will see 120hz or 96z or what ever custom resolution you applied in CRU and now see displayed in NVCP under native resolution!...However it will *not* always been seen by windows...and if windows is not seeing it neither will your games!
The only solution ToasyX could come up with allowing CRU EDID overrides to work correctly and not conflict with Nvidia Geforce Experance or indeed Samsung Magician was to uninstall Nvidia Geforce Experience and samsung Magician .. " which i can report works fine and windows always can see your custom resolution made in CRU"...or keep them installed and import the blank-extension.dat into CRU when making your custom resolutions!.. However this is far from perfect and windows on many occasions will still refuse to see your custom resolutions as conflicts still exist!...AIso i am only trying to help you but believe me if you are using CRU EDID overrides and you still have Nvidia Geforce Experience installed and have not even imported blank-extension.dat then windows will *not* 100% of the times be seeing your custom refresh rate even if NVCP reports it is working!..however using a monitor driver and NVCP to create your custom resolutions *all* of your games will see your custom profiles *all* of the time!...Using CRU you will think everything is working just fine when you looking into NVCP and see your custom refresh rate sitting there!...but it is *not* being seen by windows!..And if windows is not seeing it then your games will not be seeing it!

Edit:- This picture below was also taken with the blank-extension.dat imported into CRU!

Example:-



Using my monitor driver file and using NVCP to create our custom resolutions we have over come this problem and now all of us Nvidia users do not have any more of the above problems!...And we now have *no* conflicts what so ever and we do not have to uninstall Nvidia Geforce Experance anymore or Samsung Magician if installed or any other software that might conflict with EDID overrides....And Also the OP needs updating to reflect this!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So are there any retailers that REALLY guarantee perfect pixel? I want to get another. I should have bought 2 when I got my first for $260! The only problem with my first is 1 green stuck pixel


yup as linked by lawson:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831

Seller confirmed there are 0 dead pixels. Problem is price they want $370 - basically $100 more than other sellers...anyone got any suggestions?
I'm still waiting for someone to get back to me on this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221390816061&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I just figured out that this is actually quite incorrect. If one has a 1080P monitor and was wondering what performance in BF4 is with a 1440P monitor, you should set resolution scaling to 180% (178% actual). 1440P carries 78% more pixels than 1080P.


Well the question is, and it's one that is hard to find a good answer for, is it resolution scaling or pixel scaling? Because you are right that 1440p has 78% more pixels, but the resolution is only 33% higher (not 25% like I said earlier). I've been told in the BF4 thread that the scale is for resolution, which would make 33% the right number for testing 1440p, but I've never tested it personally to see.


----------



## karkee

I just worked a little in photoshop and I must say, the monitor is more then good enough for photoshop and illustrator.

No problems so far! loving it


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> I just worked a little in photoshop and I must say, the monitor is more then good enough for photoshop and illustrator.
> 
> No problems so far! loving it


My display looked GREAT then I ran a i1 Display Pro on it and now it is AMAZING for both gaming and photo editing.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Looking for one with no dead pixels on eBay - I wish the sellers responded faster








(Not up for paying $150-100 more for one via a seller that doesn't respond)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Those feet would hang off the end of my desk if fitted...i really don't know why they thought they needed such big feet!


Hey Lawson I noticed your handy with mod tools, so If I took a jigsaw with bi-metal blade (steel base) and cut appx 50% (more or less?) off the legs (see pic), with about the same footprint as your newer modded base, do you think it would be as stable as yours or close to it? Won't be as pretty, but will it be satisfactory in your opinion? Or not any better than the stock base? ... I have no immediate plans to use a fully raised portrait mode, which is maybe why they made the base so big in the 1st place


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hey Lawson I noticed your handy with mod tools, so If I took a jigsaw with bi-metal blade (steel base) and cut appx 50% (more or less?) off the legs (see pic), with about the same footprint as your newer modded base, do you think it would be as stable as yours or close to it? Won't be as pretty, but will it be satisfactory in your opinion? Or not any better than the stock base? ... I have no immediate plans to use a fully raised portrait mode, which is maybe why they made the base so big in the 1st place


Yes i believe it will be perfectly stable ....also a on the area where you cut feet you could also quickly file and sand that area smooth and nip down the hardware store and buy a can of satin black paint and spray the sanded down area and no one would ever no you have even cut it shorter !


----------



## Jayster

Just wondering if anybody else who has used an after market stand found that the screw holds are shorter than the screws that came with your stand?

I am using a stand off an HP L1950 but the screws that where in that stand/monitor are longer than the holes in this monitor.

Does anybody know what screws I would then need?


----------



## nickj2014

Seems like ta-korea is pretty serious about pixel perfect, mine has 3 dead black pixels in a line and another dead white pixel, sent him a message about it.

He responded saying they do test the monitors and that mine probably got damaged in shipping, he offered a $50 partial refund or a replacement monitor.

Figured I would take the refund, can't be bothered waiting for another monitor and it almost covers my £35 customs charge.

I also bought a new DVI-D cable but it doesn't work with the qnix, the monitor just loops through a test pattern of different colours. Cable works fine on my other monitor, has anyone experienced this before?


----------



## nickj2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayster*
> 
> Just wondering if anybody else who has used an after market stand found that the screw holds are shorter than the screws that came with your stand?
> 
> I am using a stand off an HP L1950 but the screws that where in that stand/monitor are longer than the holes in this monitor.
> 
> Does anybody know what screws I would then need?


Yes the screws with my monoprice stand were too long, you don't need different screws just some washers to fill the gap.


----------



## Jayster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickj2014*
> 
> Yes the screws with my monoprice stand were too long, you don't need different screws just some washers to fill the gap.


Good idea, thanks.


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Using a monitor driver all your Games will see your resolutions and refresh rates!...also if a game is limited to pacific refresh rate say for example 75hz as max!..then nothing will make it see a higher refresh rate be it CRU or NVCP!..also if you are using CRU with Nvidia geforce experience still installed it will be conflicting with CRU EDID overrides even though you will see 120hz or 96z or what ever custom resolution you applied in CRU and now see displayed in NVCP under native resolution!...However it will *not* always been seen by windows...and if windows is not seeing it neither will your games!
> The only solution ToasyX could come up with allowing CRU EDID overrides to work correctly and not conflict with Nvidia Geforce Experance or indeed Samsung Magician was to uninstall Nvidia Geforce Experience and samsung Magician .. " which i can report works fine and windows always can see your custom resolution made in CRU"...or keep them installed and import the blank-extension.dat into CRU when making your custom resolutions!.. However this is far from perfect and windows on many occasions will still refuse to see your custom resolutions as conflicts still exist!...AIso i am only trying to help you but believe me if you are using CRU EDID overrides and you still have Nvidia Geforce Experience installed and have not even imported blank-extension.dat then windows will *not* 100% of the times be seeing your custom refresh rate even if NVCP reports it is working!..however using a monitor driver and NVCP to create your custom resolutions *all* of your games will see your custom profiles *all* of the time!...Using CRU you will think everything is working just fine when you looking into NVCP and see your custom refresh rate sitting there!...but it is *not* being seen by windows!..And if windows is not seeing it then your games will not be seeing it!
> 
> Edit:- This picture below was also taken with the blank-extension.dat imported into CRU!
> 
> Example:-
> 
> 
> 
> Using my monitor driver file and using NVCP to create our custom resolutions we have over come this problem and now all of us Nvidia users do not have any more of the above problems!...And we now have *no* conflicts what so ever and we do not have to uninstall Nvidia Geforce Experance anymore or Samsung Magician if installed or any other software that might conflict with EDID overrides....And Also the OP needs updating to reflect this!


Yeah that's really weird. Like I said before, I'm using the driver patch + CRU method and I'm getting 100Hz in all the games that I have installed. Even if the refresh rate is not indicated in the in-game video options (ex - 2560 x 1440 @ X Hz,) I can clearly tell whether my game is running at 60Hz or at 100Hz, as 60Hz feels like I'm dragging my mouse through mud and 100Hz is smooth as silk. Vysnc is an excellent indicator of what the refresh rate is. If I enable vsync and look up at the sky or at a wall for example, my FPS shoots up to 100FPS and stays there. I've tested in this in each and ever game that I've installed. Vsync essentially caps the max FPS to the refresh rate in case you didn't know (100Hz = 100FPS, 96Hz = 96FPS, 60Hz = 60FPS, etc.,). Anyhow, I agree that the OP should be updated with a clearer and more up-to-date set of instructions. I might actually give your method a try because the particular driver patch I'm using (ToastyX's full patch for SLI) borks HDCP so I'm unable to watch Blurays on my computer unless I stream using MakeMKV -> VLC. Lastly, thanks for all your contributions to this thread, lawson.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i believe it will be perfectly stable ....also a on the area where you cut feet you could also quickly file and sand that area smooth and nip down the hardware store and buy a can of satin black paint and spray the sanded down area and no one would ever no you have even cut it shorter !


Thanks! Your reading my mind ... but was thinking "Glossy" would match the bezel better +R


----------



## jameyscott

Holy crap! Just got mine. BBL is barely noticeable at all, and what I thought was two dead pixels were just specs of dust!







Sadly, it is a matte panel, but it'll do.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickj2014*
> 
> Seems like ta-korea is pretty serious about pixel perfect, mine has 3 dead black pixels in a line and another dead white pixel, sent him a message about it.
> 
> He responded saying they do test the monitors and that mine probably got damaged in shipping, he offered a $50 partial refund or a replacement monitor.
> 
> Figured I would take the refund, can't be bothered waiting for another monitor and it almost covers my £35 customs charge.
> 
> I also bought a new DVI-D cable but it doesn't work with the qnix, the monitor just loops through a test pattern of different colours. Cable works fine on my other monitor, has anyone experienced this before?


This is why i only recommend Excellentcastle and his ultimate perfect pixel monitors...his comes with a red sticker on the box saying "0 dead pixels" and not one of our members that have bought his ultimate perfect pixel panels has received a monitor with any dead pixels...i have been monitoring in this for a long time now and i believe he does indeed check them!...i also do not believe for one minute all seller check them!...however we seem to have quality sellers and not such quality sellers.. i believe Excellentcastle is one of the quality seller and i belive he does cheak for dead pixels at which point he puts his red sticker on the box saying "0 dead pixels" and then ships it to the customer


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickj2014*
> 
> Seems like ta-korea is pretty serious about pixel perfect, mine has 3 dead black pixels in a line and another dead white pixel, sent him a message about it.
> 
> He responded saying they do test the monitors and that mine probably got damaged in shipping, he offered a $50 partial refund or a replacement monitor.
> 
> Figured I would take the refund, can't be bothered waiting for another monitor and it almost covers my £35 customs charge.
> 
> I also bought a new DVI-D cable but it doesn't work with the qnix, the monitor just loops through a test pattern of different colours. Cable works fine on my other monitor, has anyone experienced this before?


Oh dear - how much did you pay for yours?
I sent an offer and the description clearly states - no dead pixels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Holy crap! Just got mine. BBL is barely noticeable at all, and what I thought was two dead pixels were just specs of dust!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, it is a matte panel, but it'll do.


Where did you buy yours and from where?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> This is why i only recommend Excellentcastle and his ultimate perfect pixel monitors...his comes with a red sticker on the box saying "0 dead pixels" and not one of our members that have bought his ultimate perfect pixel panels has received a monitor with any dead pixels...i have been monitoring in this for a long time now and i believe he does indeed check them!...i also do not believe for one minute all seller check them!...however we seem to have quality sellers and not such quality sellers.. i believe Excellentcastle is one of the quality seller and i belive he does cheak for dead pixels at which point he puts his red sticker on the box saying "0 dead pixels" and then ships it to the customer


Not a "he" but a "they" - been replied to by different people, by the same seller.

EDIT:
Found a video about the red cap seller:


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickj2014*
> 
> Seems like ta-korea is pretty serious about pixel perfect, mine has 3 dead black pixels in a line and another dead white pixel, sent him a message about it.
> 
> He responded saying they do test the monitors and that mine probably got damaged in shipping, he offered a $50 partial refund or a replacement monitor.
> 
> Figured I would take the refund, can't be bothered waiting for another monitor and it almost covers my £35 customs charge.
> 
> I also bought a new DVI-D cable but it doesn't work with the qnix, the monitor just loops through a test pattern of different colours. Cable works fine on my other monitor, has anyone experienced this before?


What was the price difference between his perfect pixel and normal monitors?


----------



## nickj2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Oh dear - how much did you pay for yours?
> I sent an offer and the description clearly states - no dead pixels.


£196, it was the same price as a 'regular' qnix so I'm not too fussed, it's rare that I have a fully black screen and they are near the bottom of my monitor so not too noticeable.

I do think the 3 dead pixels in a row were probably caused in transit, my monitor was thrown around customs for over a week and was opened to work out the customs charge...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> What was the price difference between his perfect pixel and normal monitors?


£196, it was only £3 more than a normal SE model from accessorieswhole, who were the cheapest at the time.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> What was the price difference between his perfect pixel and normal monitors?


at the weekend the pixel perfect was £3 more-ish than the standard. Though they upped the Pixel perfect monitor up from £197 to £215 as of today.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Yeah that's really weird. Like I said before, I'm using the driver patch + CRU method and I'm getting 100Hz in all the games that I have installed. Even if the refresh rate is not indicated in the in-game video options (ex - 2560 x 1440 @ X Hz,) I can clearly tell whether my game is running at 60Hz or at 100Hz, as 60Hz feels like I'm dragging my mouse through mud and 100Hz is smooth as silk. Vysnc is an excellent indicator of what the refresh rate is. If I enable vsync and look up at the sky or at a wall for example, my FPS shoots up to 100FPS and stays there. I've tested in this in each and ever game that I've installed. Vsync essentially caps the max FPS to the refresh rate in case you didn't know (100Hz = 100FPS, 96Hz = 96FPS, 60Hz = 60FPS, etc.,). Anyhow, I agree that the OP should be updated with a clearer and more up-to-date set of instructions. I might actually give your method a try because the particular driver patch I'm using (ToastyX's full patch for SLI) borks HDCP so I'm unable to watch Blurays on my computer unless I stream using MakeMKV -> VLC. Lastly, thanks for all your contributions to this thread, lawson.




Yes your games and indeed windows will on some occasions will see your custom refresh rates with Nvidia Geforce Experience installed using CRU on that particular reboot...however on *many many* occasions it will not see them! and these are *facts* if you are using EDID overrides from CRU with Nvidia GeForce Experience installed!..Also i did not write CRU toastyX did!..And below is a Quote from toastyX from the CRU download page which i will also post link at the bottom of the page as i believe you will benefit from reading it!...you don't seem to believe what i am saying but maybe you will when you read what the author of CRU has to say as regards using EDID overrides while keeping Nvidia Geforce Experience installed! ... Also the picture i posted above where NVCP is seeing the custom resolution and windows is *not* seeing it the very conflict that toasyX is referring in his quote below from his CRU download page

"Note for NVIDIA users: GeForce Experience is known to cause issues with EDID overrides such as resolutions being listed in the NVIDIA control panel but not in the Windows screen resolution settings. Either uninstall GeForce Experience, or enable the extension block and import this file: blank-extension.dat"

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

Also i have known how Vsync works with refresh rates since i was about 12 years old!..also its what i used to workout if the monitor driver method could be seen in games!..and guess what it could 100% of the time!.. unlike CRU with Nvidia Geforce Experience installed...but thank for reminding me!...Also what you think CRU is enabling you to do that NVCP can not do just as well if not better with a monitor driver installed i do not know?...Also if you think that CRU can make you refresh rates or resolutions that games can see only from CRU!..and not NVCP with a monitor driver inf installed you are very much mistaken!

I hope this helps


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> at the weekend the pixel perfect was £3 more-ish than the standard. Though they upped the Pixel perfect monitor up from £197 to £215 as of today.


Ok, good.

When sellers offer to refund the "pixel perfect" price difference (and only that) to buyers who bought pixel perfect but didn't get it, it's a scam. If buyers accept a refund for a pixel perfect monitor that isn't pixel perfect, then they ought to levy a (hefty) penalty, which is seems you managed to do.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> at the weekend the pixel perfect was £3 more-ish than the standard. Though they upped the Pixel perfect monitor up from £197 to £215 as of today.


that's exactly what I thought...!
Guess I'm buying at a wrong time so to speak - sigh!

I'll buy this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831

If no other seller replies by the end of the week.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> that's exactly what I thought...!
> Guess I'm buying at a wrong time so to speak - sigh!
> 
> I'll buy this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
> 
> If no other seller replies by the end of the week.


im wating for reports to come back on the new Qnix TRUE10. might be worth waiting a week or so before you purchase.


----------



## tehsprayer

whats the best 96hz calibration with a high brightness?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Oh dear - how much did you pay for yours?
> I sent an offer and the description clearly states - no dead pixels.
> Where did you buy yours and from where?
> Not a "he" but a "they" - been replied to by different people, by the same seller.
> 
> EDIT:
> Found a video about the red cap seller:


Bought mine from accessorieswhole on ebay!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> im wating for reports to come back on the new Qnix TRUE10. might be worth waiting a week or so before you purchase.


Where's info on that one?
I'm in no "real" rush - but I would want to get on it as soon as possible.

Look how many sellers I've contacted....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Bought mine from accessorieswhole on ebay!


How much did you pay for yours? Incl postage?


----------



## nickj2014

So, has nobody seen this before, the cable that came with my monitor works fine but this replacement causes the monitor to flash white, black, red, green and blue in a test pattern.

The new cable works fine with my other Asus monitor, tried to google it but seems like for most people the monitor did this once and then it worked fine.

I can just use the cable that came with my monitor but it's super tight length wise and I can "only" hit 110hz, wanna see if another cable will let me hit the magical 120


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickj2014*
> 
> So, has nobody seen this before, the cable that came with my monitor works fine but this replacement causes the monitor to flash white, black, red, green and blue in a test pattern.
> 
> The new cable works fine with my other Asus monitor, tried to google it but seems like for most people the monitor did this once and then it worked fine.
> 
> I can just use the cable that came with my monitor but it's super tight length wise and I can "only" hit 110hz, wanna see if another cable will let me hit the magical 120


It's a dual link cable, right?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Where's info on that one?
> I'm in no "real" rush - but I would want to get on it as soon as possible.




Forum user @digitalforce bought one and should get his shortly.


----------



## nickj2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> It's a dual link cable, right?


Of course, it's a DVI-D, same as the one that came with the monitor. Doubt the monitor would even display anything with a single link?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> 
> 
> Forum user @digitalforce bought one and should get his shortly.


this one right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221390816061&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

Apart from the HDMI and the different scaling - is there any other real differences?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> this one right?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221390816061&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123
> 
> Apart from the HDMI and the different scaling - is there any other real differences?


Thats the one.

It uses a different panel, has a lower response time and has multiple inputs and alledged support for 120hz. Cant really speak for the actual performance itself until we get some reviews.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Thats the one.
> 
> It uses a different panel, has a lower response time and has multiple inputs and alledged support for 120hz. Cant really speak for the actual performance itself until we get some reviews.


fair enough! Might be tempted to get it too...just not sure about the seller (as linked)


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Forum user @digitalforce bought one and should get his shortly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> this one right?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221390816061&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123
> 
> Apart from the HDMI and the different scaling - is there any other real differences?


Here are the key differences:

#1 - This is a AH-VA panel vs a IPS/PLS. There haven't been any "mainstream" Korean VA panels. VA panels, in general, are supposed to have even better viewing angles and deeper blacks. Deeper blacks are the main reason I want to try this monitor out.

#2 - It has multiple inputs. And 1440p via HDMI 1.4

#3 - 10 bit color

#4 - Look like it will scale 720p/1080p so I'll be trying my Xbox 360 on it as well.

#5 - Muilt input overclock. Unless I'm mistaken, that will be a first.

I will be sure to post initial impressions the moment I get mine. Then, hopefully, detailed technical details.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> fair enough! Might be tempted to get it too...just not sure about the seller (as linked)


a few sellers are now stocking them now. im sure more will in the upcoming weeks.. though im just speculating now


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Here are the key differences:
> 
> #1 - This is a AH-VA panel vs a IPS/PLS. There haven't been any "mainstream" Korean VA panels. VA panels, in general, are supposed to have even better viewing angles and deeper blacks. Deeper blacks are the main reason I want to try this monitor out.
> 
> #2 - It has multiple inputs. And 1440p via HDMI 1.4
> 
> #3 - 10 bit color
> 
> #4 - Look like it will scale 720p/1080p so I'll be trying my Xbox 360 on it as well.
> 
> #5 - Muilt input overclock. Unless I'm mistaken, that will be a first.
> 
> I will be sure to post initial impressions the moment I get mine. Then, hopefully, detailed technical details.


sweet I'll wait for your post then


----------



## pk7677

Uhmm... does any one have issue with V-Sync in battlefield 4? This is the weirdest thing ever but ill try to explain as well as possible. so I want to set v-sync to 120 fps which is currently what my qnix refresh rate is at. I can do this 3 ways, the first way is to enable v-sync in battle field 4, which I did, but the frame im getting is around 90 ~100ish fps, it never constantly stay @ 120 fps. When I disable V-sync in game I get constant 200 fps with my r9 290 crossfire setup. ***? okay thats fine, ill just use CCC to control my FPS then, opens up CCC click on 3D applications, go to frame rate control, click on Always on, select bf4.exe over ride the profile and all done! Now does it work? You bet your sweet ass it didn't work. Final solution limit my fps with a custom bf4 config file, **** works but my SSD craps out, fast load time between maps becomes impossible. Seriously what da hell is going on? Can some one please give out a suggestion or two? My computer would crash if I don't limit my fps for some reason.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pk7677*
> 
> Uhmm... does any one have issue with V-Sync in battlefield 4? This is the weirdest thing ever but ill try to explain as well as possible. so I want to set v-sync to 120 fps which is currently what my qnix refresh rate is at. I can do this 3 ways, the first way is to enable v-sync in battle field 4, which I did, but the frame im getting is around 90 ~100ish fps, it never constantly stay @ 120 fps. When I disable V-sync in game I get constant 200 fps with my r9 290 crossfire setup. ***? okay thats fine, ill just use CCC to control my FPS then, opens up CCC click on 3D applications, go to frame rate control, click on Always on, select bf4.exe over ride the profile and all done! Now does it work? You bet your sweet ass it didn't work. Final solution limit my fps with a custom bf4 config file, **** works but my SSD craps out, fast load time between maps becomes impossible. Seriously what da hell is going on? Can some one please give out a suggestion or two? My computer would crash if I don't limit my fps for some reason.


PK7677,

One option is to disable vsync altogether and limit your FPS to 115-119 FPS in Bandicam (Quick, lite, free for FPS/frame limiting) -- Bandicam.com

Give that a whirl and report back


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pk7677*
> 
> Uhmm... does any one have issue with V-Sync in battlefield 4? This is the weirdest thing ever but ill try to explain as well as possible. so I want to set v-sync to 120 fps which is currently what my qnix refresh rate is at. I can do this 3 ways, the first way is to enable v-sync in battle field 4, which I did, but the frame im getting is around 90 ~100ish fps, it never constantly stay @ 120 fps. When I disable V-sync in game I get constant 200 fps with my r9 290 crossfire setup. ***? okay thats fine, ill just use CCC to control my FPS then, opens up CCC click on 3D applications, go to frame rate control, click on Always on, select bf4.exe over ride the profile and all done! Now does it work? You bet your sweet ass it didn't work. Final solution limit my fps with a custom bf4 config file, **** works but my SSD craps out, fast load time between maps becomes impossible. Seriously what da hell is going on? Can some one please give out a suggestion or two? My computer would crash if I don't limit my fps for some reason.


I think your final line kind of describes the problem lol.
Try re-installing your GPU drivers.

Wouldn't test on BF4 personally - it has been causing a lot of people to crash recently.


----------



## Watagump

More info from another forum. This is from dream-seller, according to this email the sellers say they do test the monitors themselves, would be nice to see if they really do. This is for an X-Star brand.

Hello, thank you for your purchase.

This message regards to the purchase you made for the monitor.
We have been having many trouble going through the monitor for Quality check due to so many orders.
I have returned many monitors to the manufacturer and will be getting restocked tomorrow. Your time waiting for this delay is very much appreciated.

I hope you can kindly understand that we are trying our best to serve best customer service as well as the best quality product.

The shipment will be made right away from tomorrow in order. We have entered the tracking number for your purchase, to keep the transactions in order received. This has not been shipped out yet.

If you'd like to cancel the transaction, we will do that for you right away!
I am truly sorry about the late update of this transaction.
Thank you so much.

Yours sincerely


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> that's exactly what I thought...!
> Guess I'm buying at a wrong time so to speak - sigh!
> 
> I'll buy this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
> 
> If no other seller replies by the end of the week.


That would be a great choice Totally Dubbed and i believe you will not be disappointed with his ultimate perfect pixel...as everyone else has been more than happy with his scam free ultimate perfect pixel monitors


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> That would be a great choice Totally Dubbed and i believe you will not be disappointed with his ultimate perfect pixel...as everyone else has been more than happy with his scam free ultimate perfect pixel monitors


yup!
Going to hold out until I see a review of the True10 though. Might be useful if I want to play on the Xbox a lil more


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yup!
> Going to hold out until I see a review of the True10 though. Might be useful if I want to play on the Xbox a lil more


Yes i am very interested in that monitor indeed!...and would even go as far as saying that i might even be just as excited as Digitalforce is that he is getting one lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i am very interested in that monitor indeed!...and would even go as far as saying that i might even be just as excited as Digitalforce is that he is getting one lol


I'm looking forward to him getting it - because he seems to have quite a few monitors and has experience with them







!
Should be a nice, honest comparison! (something you see rarely these days)


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm looking forward to him getting it - because he seems to have quite a few monitors and has experience with them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Should be a nice, honest comparison! (something you see rarely these days)


LOL! Good points. Fair and Balanced (tm)









All jokes aside, I have tried A LOT of monitors in the last few years, my wife is a VERY patient woman, and I hope to give some people some good direction. I probably won't get as detailed on my reviews as NCX, well, for sure I won't but at least I can give some KEY pros and cons of each monitor.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> LOL! Good points. Fair and Balanced (tm)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All jokes aside, I have tried A LOT of monitors in the last few years, my wife is a VERY patient woman, and I hope to give some people some good direction. I probably won't get as detailed on my reviews as NCX, well, for sure I won't but at least I can give some KEY pros and cons of each monitor.


and that's what I'm looking for brother!

Btw - how do you test G2G latency?
How will you be able to tell one is truly 4ms?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> More info from another forum. This is from dream-seller, according to this email the sellers say they do test the monitors themselves, would be nice to see if they really do. This is for an X-Star brand.
> 
> Hello, thank you for your purchase.
> 
> This message regards to the purchase you made for the monitor.
> We have been having many trouble going through the monitor for Quality check due to so many orders.
> I have returned many monitors to the manufacturer and will be getting restocked tomorrow. Your time waiting for this delay is very much appreciated.
> 
> I hope you can kindly understand that we are trying our best to serve best customer service as well as the best quality product.
> 
> The shipment will be made right away from tomorrow in order. We have entered the tracking number for your purchase, to keep the transactions in order received. This has not been shipped out yet.
> 
> If you'd like to cancel the transaction, we will do that for you right away!
> I am truly sorry about the late update of this transaction.
> Thank you so much.
> 
> Yours sincerely


I guess that explains why FedEx has no record of the tracking number he sent me for the one I ordered this weekend.

Now I'm wondering if I should cancel it and grab a True10 or one of the excellentcastle ones instead.


----------



## Watagump

I am starting to get a little more clarity on the whole glossy thing. According to NCX, the cheaper glossy are glass over either a matte or glossy panel. This does cause the blacks to become grayish looking, I have spoken with him for a while and it seems the true glossy panels are the ones that are $600 to $700 range. I always suspected the cheaper glossy to be tempered glass over the panel and just sold as glossy.


----------



## brialee8

I guess that would explain why I have not heard back from him when I ordered almost 2 days ago...

Watagump, what other forum were you referring to?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> I guess that would explain why I have not heard back from him when I ordered almost 2 days ago...
> 
> Watagump, what other forum were you referring to?


Here is the link, so I don't have to keep bringing info over.

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1804901


----------



## Sergioosh

Hi everyone.

Just wanted to share my initial thoughts on the QNIX, which I received last Saturday.

Few information beforehand:
Purchased from green-sum seller on eBay for $309. Matte, free delivery. Purchased and paid for 4th of March, shipped out on 6th, failed delivery on 7th (wow!). I picked it up from depot at 8th.
The box was wrapped in cardboard. The package didn't have any damage.

One small bad thing- I'm in Oz, but the supplied adapter had European plug and US adapter.

Setup was straightforward and had no issues whatsoever. After a quick inspection I found one stuck green pixel in the bottom left quarter near the bottom edge. It's barely noticeable. No excessive backlight bleeding. I did not make any closer inspection... I couldn't resist just enjoying the screen. I started up various games and 1080p movies. I'm very happy with the screen so far. The first time I saw my desktop in 1440p it blew my mind.

Moving on I tried quick overclocking in Nvidia Control Panel. 96Hz? No problem. 110Hz? Yes! 120Hz.... nope. The screen gets distorted with artifacts (huge amount of green lines). *Is it possible it's just the DVI cable fault?*. I'm asking because I used to have a 1080p 120Hz screen and it did have similar issues with crappy DVI-D cables.

I'll do more testing soon. So far I'm very, very happy with this screen.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sergioosh*
> 
> Hi everyone.
> 
> Just wanted to share my initial thoughts on the QNIX, which I received last Saturday.
> 
> Few information beforehand:
> Purchased from green-sum seller on eBay for $309. Matte, free delivery. Purchased and paid for 4th of March, shipped out on 6th, failed delivery on 7th (wow!). I picked it up from depot at 8th.
> The box was wrapped in cardboard. The package didn't have any damage.
> 
> One small bad thing- I'm in Oz, but the supplied adapter had European plug and US adapter.
> 
> Setup was straightforward and had no issues whatsoever. After a quick inspection I found one stuck green pixel in the bottom left quarter near the bottom edge. It's barely noticeable. No excessive backlight bleeding. I did not make any closer inspection... I couldn't resist just enjoying the screen. I started up various games and 1080p movies. I'm very happy with the screen so far. The first time I saw my desktop in 1440p it blew my mind.
> 
> Moving on I tried quick overclocking in Nvidia Control Panel. 96Hz? No problem. 110Hz? Yes! 120Hz.... nope. The screen gets distorted with artifacts (huge amount of green lines). *Is it possible it's just the DVI cable fault?*. I'm asking because I used to have a 1080p 120Hz screen and it did have similar issues with crappy DVI-D cables.
> 
> I'll do more testing soon. So far I'm very, very happy with this screen.


How are you how are creating your custom resolutions using CRU or NVCP or?...do you have Nvidia or Amd....do you have SLI or are you using crossfire?...are you using an optimized timings for your 120hz profile?...which patch did you use if any?...Name of the patch that you used please like eg: nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe...thanks


----------



## Sergioosh

You should read more carefully what I wrote, mate! Do I have Nvidia or AMD? I wrote I tried overclocking in Nvidia Control Panel. That should give you a hint







I just created a custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel and that's it. I did not do anything else like optimized settings, timings or patches. I'm not using SLI. Yeah, maybe I should try it.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sergioosh*
> 
> You should read more carefully what I wrote, mate! Do I have Nvidia or AMD? I wrote I tried overclocking in Nvidia Control Panel. That should give you a hint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just created a custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel and that's it. I did not do anything else like optimized settings, timings or patches. I'm not using SLI. Yeah, maybe I should try it.


Yeah mate maybe you should do some more reading there's only 1527 pages to get though and then you might of found the help you was looking for?...Maybe you will find a hint hidden in there some where!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Well the question is, and it's one that is hard to find a good answer for, is it resolution scaling or pixel scaling? Because you are right that 1440p has 78% more pixels, but the resolution is only 33% higher (not 25% like I said earlier). I've been told in the BF4 thread that the scale is for resolution, which would make 33% the right number for testing 1440p, but I've never tested it personally to see.


How is the resolution only 33% higher if it has 78% more pixels?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> How is the resolution only 33% higher if it has 78% more pixels?


(1440-1080)/1080 = 0.33

(2560-1920)/1920 = 0.33

I'm just not sure which way they measure it. The resolution is 33% higher in each dimension, but the total pixel count is 78% higher. I'll see if I can find the posts in the BF4 thread about it.

Edit:
Some quick math and the testing done by Bit-tech would imply that the resolution scale is only applied to 1 dimension. They show that using 150% resolution scale cuts performance in half, which is what you would expect if you have doubled the number of pixels, and 150% applied to each dimension would be just over double the number of pixels (2.25 to be exact).

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/11/27/battlefield-4-performance-analysis/7

They also say "At 200 percent, the cards are effectively running at 4K" and 200% of 1920 would be 3840, or the 4K horizontal resolution.

On a different note, does anyone know what kind of offer excellentcastle usually accepts for his ultimate perfect pixel monitor, if any?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> (1440-1080)/1080 = 0.33
> 
> (2560-1920)/1920 = 0.33
> 
> I'm just not sure which way they measure it. The resolution is 33% higher in each dimension, but the total pixel count is 78% higher. I'll see if I can find the posts in the BF4 thread about it.
> 
> Edit:
> Some quick math and the testing done by Bit-tech would imply that the resolution scale is only applied to 1 dimension. They show that using 150% resolution scale cuts performance in half, which is what you would expect if you have doubled the number of pixels, and 150% applied to each dimension would be just over double the number of pixels (2.25 to be exact).
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/11/27/battlefield-4-performance-analysis/7
> 
> They also say "At 200 percent, the cards are effectively running at 4K" and 200% of 1920 would be 3840, or the 4K horizontal resolution.
> 
> On a different note, does anyone know what kind of offer excellentcastle usually accepts for his ultimate perfect pixel monitor, if any?


Yes i believe he does take them ...make him a sensible offer and see what happens...i do not know of a figure to give him however i have noted that other members have made him offers in the past and he as accepted them


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Getting a bit tired of these eBay sellers...(even the ones with high rep).
I asked about the newer model - and they said I should go for the pixel perfect model, when they don't have any true10 perfect pixel models from their shops....


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> (1440-1080)/1080 = 0.33
> 
> (2560-1920)/1920 = 0.33
> 
> I'm just not sure which way they measure it. The resolution is 33% higher in each dimension, but the total pixel count is 78% higher. I'll see if I can find the posts in the BF4 thread about it.
> 
> Edit:
> Some quick math and the testing done by Bit-tech would imply that the resolution scale is only applied to 1 dimension. They show that using 150% resolution scale cuts performance in half, which is what you would expect if you have doubled the number of pixels, and 150% applied to each dimension would be just over double the number of pixels (2.25 to be exact).
> 
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/11/27/battlefield-4-performance-analysis/7
> 
> They also say "At 200 percent, the cards are effectively running at 4K" and 200% of 1920 would be 3840, or the 4K horizontal resolution.
> 
> On a different note, does anyone know what kind of offer excellentcastle usually accepts for his ultimate perfect pixel monitor, if any?


Here is one of his for the Ultimate, it has a make offer option, storewithstory also has an offer option and is slightly cheaper to start I would start with $320, go from there.

excellentcastle

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831

storewithstory

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d19259934


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Annnnnd as I say that - I hear back from the seller "red-cap" that has the True10 one - looking for more details, I'll confirm when I know - might buy from him. Seems more "personal" vs the other sellers.


----------



## iCrap

so im looking now on eBay to get a second glossy QNIX QX2710... All i can find is matte or tempered glass? Am i missing something? Do they not sell them anymore?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> so im looking now on eBay to get a second glossy QNIX QX2710... All i can find is matte or tempered glass? Am i missing something? Do they not sell them anymore?


If you got a so called glossy for the lower prices, $300 range, its most likely not glossy but a glass over a matte or glossy panel. The Qnix that are true glossy can be had for $600 to $700.


----------



## iCrap

wait what?

I bought mine for $300ish... couple months ago. The screen does not have any glass over it, it's actually glossy.

Well damn, i just broke my other 27" dispaly... i need another 1440p glossy monitor for $300ish.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> More info from another forum. This is from dream-seller, according to this email the sellers say they do test the monitors themselves, would be nice to see if they really do. This is for an X-Star brand.
> 
> Hello, thank you for your purchase.
> 
> This message regards to the purchase you made for the monitor.
> We have been having many trouble going through the monitor for Quality check due to so many orders.
> I have returned many monitors to the manufacturer and will be getting restocked tomorrow. Your time waiting for this delay is very much appreciated.
> 
> I hope you can kindly understand that we are trying our best to serve best customer service as well as the best quality product.
> 
> The shipment will be made right away from tomorrow in order. We have entered the tracking number for your purchase, to keep the transactions in order received. This has not been shipped out yet.
> 
> If you'd like to cancel the transaction, we will do that for you right away!
> I am truly sorry about the late update of this transaction.
> Thank you so much.
> 
> Yours sincerely


I ordered Sunday and just got this message from dream seller...Sigh

I am kind of worried although I do not wanna cancel my transaction just yet. I emailed him back stating my concern and asked for my panel to be double checked for quality. (Fingers crossed).. I also asked if it would actually be sent tomorrow as I've seen other receive this same message.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> wait what?
> 
> I bought mine for $300ish... couple months ago. The screen does not have any glass over it, it's actually glossy.
> 
> Well damn, i just broke my other 27" dispaly... i need another 1440p glossy monitor for $300ish.


Trust me, many are just as confused as to glossy, glass, tempered etc etc. I am getting the impression from what I have been reading that the $300 ones are not true glossy panels, if I find out I am wrong, I will update. If you look on ebay you can see glossy ones at the much higher prices. Does your $300 one also have the multiple connection options?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xqnix+qx2710+glossy&_nkw=qnix+qx2710+glossy&_sacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## iCrap

Ok that's just confusing. It seems like the same display i have is now $700. Mine is definitely glossy. Is it just the qnix? is there any other 1440 glossy i can get for $300?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Annnnnd as I say that - I hear back from the seller "red-cap" that has the True10 one - looking for more details, I'll confirm when I know - might buy from him. Seems more "personal" vs the other sellers.


I saw that listing earlier - noticed he has slightly lower reviews than the other sellers (98.3 versus 99+) - not sure how much that matters though. It's pretty much a crapshoot all the way around, I guess.

Can't decide if the ultimate perfect pixel is worth $40-50 more (if the offer is accepted) than the $280 I paid this weekend.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Ok that's just confusing. It seems like the same display i have is now $700. Mine is definitely glossy. Is it just the qnix? is there any other 1440 glossy i can get for $300?


The X-Star version is also the higher priced like the Qnix. I am not aware right now of any true glossy that overclock, in the $300 range. The Monex is glossy but doesn't overclock. We are waiting to hear about the new panels with the virtual 4k, to see if they overclock and are true glossy.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Ok that's just confusing. It seems like the same display i have is now $700. Mine is definitely glossy. Is it just the qnix? is there any other 1440 glossy i can get for $300?


Hey.. crap.. 

I might have one coming available this weekend. I'll let you know and key an eye on the thread. The whole glossy thing is a confusing mess. Not fun trying to talk about glossy in broken english with these sellers ;-)


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I saw that listing earlier - noticed he has slightly lower reviews than the other sellers (98.3 versus 99+) - not sure how much that matters though. It's pretty much a crapshoot all the way around, I guess.


IMHO anyone with a rating still in the 99% area is someone I would trust. Of course until I couldn't.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Hey.. crap..
> 
> I might have one coming available this weekend. I'll let you know and key an eye on the thread. The whole glossy thing is a confusing mess. Not fun trying to talk about glossy in broken english with these sellers ;-)


Yeah the glossy thing is CRAP.


----------



## iCrap

What's the virtual 4k?
I don't care about the overclock since my current one already does it. This will be a side display..... there is a monex glossy for $300? I'll try to find it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Hey.. crap..
> 
> I might have one coming available this weekend. I'll let you know and key an eye on the thread. The whole glossy thing is a confusing mess. Not fun trying to talk about glossy in broken english with these sellers ;-)


Are you going to be selling one?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> What's the virtual 4k?
> I don't care about the overclock since my current one already does it. This will be a side display..... there is a monex glossy for $300? I'll try to find it.
> Are you going to be selling one?


Yeah the Monex M27QSM. Under $300.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xmonex+m27qsm&_nkw=monex+m27qsm&_sacat=0&_from=R40\\

Monex review.

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14903-monex-m27qsm-review-glossy-2560x1440-pls.html


----------



## iCrap

How much are you selling yours for?


----------



## Watagump

Here are the virtual 4k ones.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0&_nkw=qnix+virtual+4k+27%22&_sacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## Sergioosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> No room for being a dick on this board...


That was a joke, and lawson67 responded with a joke. I'm cool with that and I'm not calling people names. What's your problem? Please don't go around posting useless posts. It forces me to add to the useless posts pool


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Bagged a deal for a True10 - ordered and paid for, here is red caps answers:

_What's the difference between this model and the other one? This is a TRUE10 one vs the others that aren't_
- this model is upgraded from QX2710 DP Multi
- it supports virtual 4K ( very useful to graphic desinger )
- Eyecare monitor ( Low blue light mode , flicker free) - as far as I know , only BenQ release this function.
- 120Hz overclockable
- 3H premium anti-glare film

_Does this one, as said in the description have HDMI and other ports apart from DVI-D_?
- there are 4 ports ( HDMI, DVI-D, RGB,DP )

_Also can I have a MATTE finish please?_
- yes, this model has matte screen

thank you

Sincerely yours
Red-Cap

Link:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PERFECT-PIXELS-QNIX-QX2710-Evolutionll-DP-Multi-TRUE10-27-Virtual-4K-Monitor-W-/221390816061?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338bebc33d


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Bagged a deal for a True10 - ordered and paid for, here is red caps answers:
> 
> _What's the difference between this model and the other one? This is a TRUE10 one vs the others that aren't_
> - this model is upgraded from QX2710 DP Multi
> - it supports virtual 4K ( very useful to graphic desinger )
> - Eyecare monitor ( Low blue light mode , flicker free) - as far as I know , only BenQ release this function.
> - 120Hz overclockable
> - 3H premium anti-glare film
> 
> _Does this one, as said in the description have HDMI and other ports apart from DVI-D_?
> - there are 4 ports ( HDMI, DVI-D, RGB,DP )
> 
> _Also can I have a MATTE finish please?_
> - yes, this model has matte screen
> 
> thank you
> 
> Sincerely yours
> Red-Cap


Awesome man! Let's compare when we get them set up!

iCrap, I apparently can't post my stuff for sell in detail. The posts get deleted. So, I'll PM you this weekend when I have decided what I have for sale


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> What's the virtual 4k?
> I don't care about the overclock since my current one already does it. This will be a side display..... there is a monex glossy for $300? I'll try to find it.
> Are you going to be selling one?


dude if you want glossy + side display:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1471658/for-sale-x3-glossy-pwm-free-qnix-2560x1440-pls-120hz-stable-zero-dead-pixels

Jump on that.
Or:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-27-Hi-Res-2560x1440p-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/251469894752?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3a8cc61460

OR wait for the noble man underneath to PM you







!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Awesome man! Let's compare when we get them set up!
> 
> iCrap, I apparently can't post my stuff for sell in detail. The posts get deleted. So, I'll PM you this weekend when I have decided what I have for sale


Sweet. What's the best way to test it? ie. response time?


----------



## iCrap

Thanks, i will watch that auction.

Whoever said they are planning on selling theirs also, PM me when you are going to sell.


----------



## Watagump

Sigh, my Asus is giving me headaches from the PWM. Never had a monitor do that, also it now has some dead pixels. I still have time to return it, months actually, decisions decisions.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'm telling people not to buy Asus and they keep buying it.
I had an Asus monitor, suddenly have blue lines and then random crashes (yes the monitor) when I asked Asus about this, they provided me with absolutely no support.
I've bought all types of Asus products, my noobtooth z77 really Will be the last I'll buy or even look at Asus. I'll only consider Asus if they give me the product. I wouldn't even pay a single penny towards that company no more /rant


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm telling people not to buy Asus and they keep buying it.
> I had an Asus monitor, suddenly have blue lines and then random crashes (yes the monitor) when I asked Asus about this, they provided me with absolutely no support.
> I've bought all types of Asus products, my noobtooth z77 really Will be the last I'll buy or even look at Asus. I'll only consider Asus if they give me the product. I wouldn't even pay a single penny towards that company no more /rant


I have had zero issues with anything except this monitor, I also bought it as a refurb. Never had to rma anything from them. I wont have to rma this either if I decide to get something else, just return it locally.


----------



## Sergioosh

C'mon it's not fair to diss company because you had no luck with it. I, on the contrary, had only good expierience with Asus. Hell, I never had to call their support. On the other hand, I did have different types of devices from Asus than you: mainly motherboards and tablets, so maybe that's their good side, while laptops and monitors are the bad side


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickj2014*
> 
> Of course, it's a DVI-D, same as the one that came with the monitor. Doubt the monitor would even display anything with a single link?


It might display a test pattern. FYI, DVI-D can come in two flavours - DL-DVI-D, and SL-DVI-D. Your cable has pins that look like this, right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Here are the key differences:
> 
> #1 - This is a AH-VA panel vs a IPS/PLS. There haven't been any "mainstream" Korean VA panels. VA panels, in general, are supposed to have even better viewing angles and deeper blacks. Deeper blacks are the main reason I want to try this monitor out.
> 
> #2 - It has multiple inputs. And 1440p via HDMI 1.4
> 
> #3 - 10 bit color
> 
> #4 - Look like it will scale 720p/1080p so I'll be trying my Xbox 360 on it as well.
> 
> #5 - Muilt input overclock. Unless I'm mistaken, that will be a first.
> 
> I will be sure to post initial impressions the moment I get mine. Then, hopefully, detailed technical details.


The sellers may well be mistaken. There have been "125hz overclock" multi models before (and even _marketed_ as such) which have been proven otherwise. Thanks for keeping us informed and make sure to validate your overclock! It would be interesting to see the results.


----------



## dawnoftheh3ro

Hey all, new to the forum, although I've been coming to overclockers for awhile now for all the info. Just wanted to leave a good recommendation for ipsledmonitors.com. I was on the fence about so many of these monitors. Anyone else out there scouring the internet for info on these and other more brand name 1440 panels, check out Fabelhaft NCX on youtube. Very thorough vids and responds regularly to comments. Anyways, I was pretty hesitant about ordering through ebay but couldn't find much info on the site I mentioned above, except they were based out of California; only a few comments here and there who also tried them with good results. I called and talked to them twice and asked a ton of questions and the guy I talked to (both times) was Justin. Dude answered every one of my annoying questions and I eventually just decided to just go for the Qnix 2710 matte from them. They said they weren't selling the tempered glass or glossy versions anymore. Not sure if they were discontinued or what. There price was 340 plus shipping ($360 total) but their return policy is amazingly simple: 14 days to send it back if there is any dead pixels or uneven backlight issues (bleed, glow, whatever). Also sell a 3 year warranty that covers more than the squaretrade. No dead pixels on mine, extremely minute backlight bleed about an inch to the right of the bottom left corner. Very slight. Super happy with it.

They work direct with the manufacturers over in South Korea. I asked him why they don't sell pixel perfect versions, and while a little reluctant to crack he eventually told me that the sellers on Ebay aren't screening these for stuff like pixel imperfections or backlight bleed. That it would just be way too long of a process for the amount of orders they are going through. They just charge extra money for "pixel perfect" and if it comes out to be that way then great, and if not they might return a bit of your money if you call complaining to the seller. So overall, complete scam. Don't waste your extra money. I'd check out ipsledmonitors.com if you're getting your first one, or even an additional one, and are worried about dead pixels/ BLB but don't want to face that shipping charge back to SK.


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sergioosh*
> 
> That was a joke, and lawson67 responded with a joke. I'm cool with that and I'm not calling people names. What's your problem? Please don't go around posting useless posts. It forces me to add to the useless posts pool


huh, your idea of a joke seem to be much different than mine... to each his own.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dawnoftheh3ro*
> 
> Hey all, new to the forum, although I've been coming to overclockers for awhile now for all the info. Just wanted to leave a good recommendation for ipsledmonitors.com. I was on the fence about so many of these monitors. Anyone else out there scouring the internet for info on these and other more brand name 1440 panels, check out Fabelhaft NCX on youtube. Very thorough vids and responds regularly to comments. Anyways, I was pretty hesitant about ordering through ebay but couldn't find much info on the site I mentioned above, except they were based out of California; only a few comments here and there who also tried them with good results. I called and talked to them twice and asked a ton of questions and the guy I talked to (both times) was Justin. Dude answered every one of my annoying questions and I eventually just decided to just go for the Qnix 2710 matte from them. They said they weren't selling the tempered glass or glossy versions anymore. Not sure if they were discontinued or what. There price was 340 plus shipping ($360 total) but their return policy is amazingly simple: 14 days to send it back if there is any dead pixels or uneven backlight issues (bleed, glow, whatever). Also sell a 3 year warranty that covers more than the squaretrade. No dead pixels on mine, extremely minute backlight bleed about an inch to the right of the bottom left corner. Very slight. Super happy with it.
> 
> They work direct with the manufacturers over in South Korea. I asked him why they don't sell pixel perfect versions, and while a little reluctant to crack he eventually told me that the sellers on Ebay aren't screening these for stuff like pixel imperfections or backlight bleed. That it would just be way too long of a process for the amount of orders they are going through. They just charge extra money for "pixel perfect" and if it comes out to be that way then great, and if not they might return a bit of your money if you call complaining to the seller. So overall, complete scam. Don't waste your extra money. I'd check out ipsledmonitors.com if you're getting your first one, or even an additional one, and are worried about dead pixels/ BLB but don't want to face that shipping charge back to SK.


They indeed list the glossy on their site. They also list the tempered, but both are listed as back ordered.


----------



## dawnoftheh3ro

Also, I was unaware of this until after using the patches and CRU software and it may have been available for awhile now but I read a post from ToastyX somewhere about the pixel clock for nvidia cards (prob AMD too in catalyst control). I uninstalled the patches and CRU then went in EVGA precision: go to the configuration menu (gear icon top left) then configure. It brings up a pixel clock slider that automatically sets your refresh rate for you. No patches, CRU, or even a restart, required for me. Automatically sets the refresh rate in nvidia control panel and in your display control panel (right click+screen resolution+adv settings).

Again, this could be common knowledge by now so I'm sorry if I'm all excited over here for something that everyone knows about already lol. I couldn't go past 96 hz without a faint slightly transparent red smear/line about a half inch wide showing up on the right side of the monitor. So I just keep it at 92 hz.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I saw that listing earlier - noticed he has slightly lower reviews than the other sellers (98.3 versus 99+) - not sure how much that matters though. It's pretty much a crapshoot all the way around, I guess.
> 
> Can't decide if the ultimate perfect pixel is worth $40-50 more (if the offer is accepted) than the $280 I paid this weekend.


Don't buy red cap. He has screwed multiple people on this board.


----------



## Sergioosh

Is that a good enough reason to call people names in your opinion? Please restrain yourself next time... I think that's enough of this OT.


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sergioosh*
> 
> Is that a good enough reason to call people names in your opinion? Please restrain yourself next time... I think that's enough of this OT.


lol who are you?


----------



## Sergioosh

What kind of question is that? If you want to continue this pointless conversation just PM me. Maybe I'll bother to answer them. I don't want to spam this topic any more with useless posts.


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sergioosh*
> 
> What kind of question is that? If you want to continue this pointless conversation just PM me. Maybe I'll bother to answer them. I don't want to spam this topic any more with useless posts.


Are you Ashton Kutcher?? Am I being punked right now? Where did you hide the cameras?

Back on topic:

I tried to push my QNIX at 4k and Auto timings and kept getting artifacts. Anyone else got any ideas on how to get it working? I even tried as low as 30hz


----------



## kyismaster

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3YZsQq_4C0FR3NkdUYyb2RoRkk/edit?usp=sharing

someone wanna test my profile?

heres my catalyst settings ( default monitor settings )


----------



## bobbobfrank

Does anybody have a copy of these ICC profiles? Particularly the 96Hz SRGB gamma?

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117

They all seem to be "File not found" which is a shame because a lot of people seem happy with them.


----------



## Ronalddus

I,v been following this thread for a few weeks and I'm very interested in this monitors.
I'm also keeping an eye at the glossy vs matte vs tempered thing. In the future I want to buy a glossy one, but first I want to know how these panels compare to the ones in the past.

http://www.accessorieswhole.com/qx2710-led-evolution-ll-glossy-27-2560x1440-samsung-pls-27in-pc-monitor.html

Another website which sells a "Glossy" one for under $350. $ 319 is pretty tempting, but I first want to know if this is a real glossy one.

Thanks for sharing all your experiences with these monitors. Very helpful people out here


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> More info from another forum. This is from dream-seller, according to this email the sellers say they do test the monitors themselves, would be nice to see if they really do. This is for an X-Star brand.
> 
> Hello, thank you for your purchase.
> 
> This message regards to the purchase you made for the monitor.
> We have been having many trouble going through the monitor for Quality check due to so many orders.
> I have returned many monitors to the manufacturer and will be getting restocked tomorrow. Your time waiting for this delay is very much appreciated.
> 
> I hope you can kindly understand that we are trying our best to serve best customer service as well as the best quality product.
> 
> The shipment will be made right away from tomorrow in order. We have entered the tracking number for your purchase, to keep the transactions in order received. This has not been shipped out yet.
> 
> If you'd like to cancel the transaction, we will do that for you right away!
> I am truly sorry about the late update of this transaction.
> Thank you so much.
> 
> Yours sincerely
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered Sunday and just got this message from dream seller...Sigh
> 
> I am kind of worried although I do not wanna cancel my transaction just yet. I emailed him back stating my concern and asked for my panel to be double checked for quality. (Fingers crossed).. I also asked if it would actually be sent tomorrow as I've seen other receive this same message.
Click to expand...

I've been chasing my QNIX from dream-seller, and been told it would ship today by 6pm - so fingers crossed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickj2014*
> 
> Of course, it's a DVI-D, same as the one that came with the monitor. Doubt the monitor would even display anything with a single link?
> 
> 
> 
> It might display a test pattern. FYI, DVI-D can come in two flavours - DL-DVI-D, and SL-DVI-D. Your cable has pins that look like this, right?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Here are the key differences:
> 
> #1 - This is a AH-VA panel vs a IPS/PLS. There haven't been any "mainstream" Korean VA panels. VA panels, in general, are supposed to have even better viewing angles and deeper blacks. Deeper blacks are the main reason I want to try this monitor out.
> 
> #2 - It has multiple inputs. And 1440p via HDMI 1.4
> 
> #3 - 10 bit color
> 
> #4 - Look like it will scale 720p/1080p so I'll be trying my Xbox 360 on it as well.
> 
> #5 - Muilt input overclock. Unless I'm mistaken, that will be a first.
> 
> I will be sure to post initial impressions the moment I get mine. Then, hopefully, detailed technical details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The sellers may well be mistaken. There have been "125hz overclock" multi models before (and even _marketed_ as such) which have been proven otherwise. Thanks for keeping us informed and make sure to validate your overclock! It would be interesting to see the results.
Click to expand...

Having just seen this post, what standard should they be, and any value in buying a high quality cable (any recommendations )

I may need a longer cable anyway.

Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Bagged a deal for a True10 - ordered and paid for, here is red caps answers:
> 
> _What's the difference between this model and the other one? This is a TRUE10 one vs the others that aren't_
> - this model is upgraded from QX2710 DP Multi
> - it supports virtual 4K ( very useful to graphic desinger )
> - Eyecare monitor ( Low blue light mode , flicker free) - as far as I know , only BenQ release this function.
> - 120Hz overclockable
> - 3H premium anti-glare film
> 
> _Does this one, as said in the description have HDMI and other ports apart from DVI-D_?
> - there are 4 ports ( HDMI, DVI-D, RGB,DP )
> 
> _Also can I have a MATTE finish please?_
> - yes, this model has matte screen
> 
> thank you
> 
> Sincerely yours
> Red-Cap
> 
> Link:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PERFECT-PIXELS-QNIX-QX2710-Evolutionll-DP-Multi-TRUE10-27-Virtual-4K-Monitor-W-/221390816061?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338bebc33d


Congrats. Let us know how it goes. So tempted to order one now..


----------



## orwasmadi

Hi,

After Screening this Club for a while i've decided to get my self one, and managed to find a good *X-star* and arrived today.
Overclocked successfully over Nvidia control panel to *120 Hertz.* and implemented using Windows monitor Settings.

However, I am facing a strange ass problem, once i connected the monitor for the first time, my pc started to suffer from *freezing spikes* every 15 seconds, the spike last for 3 seconds then everything returns to normal, checked the task manager for any suspicious Software, still nothing to see, that really blow my mind, before using the monitor everything was fine ??

Furthermore, i've noticed that the colors in my monitor needs alot of calibration, in comparison to my second monitor (HP IPS panel), the white in my X-star looks so much *dark and almost Green* !!
i've tried to install the Color profiles mentioned in OP, but most of the links there are broken, could anyone please direct me to a downloadable color profile for 120Hz.

Hint, i am on SLI if that could matter.

Sorry for bad English, trying my best


----------



## anthonyg45157

After replying to dream seller in regards to shipping delay i asked for my Monitor to be double and asked if it truly would be sent out tomorrow (today)

This was his reply

Hi, We are really sorry for all the inconveniences.

I totally understand you are upset with us, I am deeply sorry for that.
Unfortunately almost half of the monitors we have received from the manufacture were defected ones,
there has been continuous back-and-forth process.
Therefore we only could ship out few monitors a day, there has been a long cue waiting for our monitors.
Your monitor will be shipped within this week according to our tech.
If you are not happy with that we will immediately cancel and refund for you.

Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us.
We will continuously improve our service for better business.

Thank you"


----------



## orwasmadi

Also, *** IS THIS SPOT ???


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dawnoftheh3ro*
> 
> Also, I was unaware of this until after using the patches and CRU software and it may have been available for awhile now but I read a post from ToastyX somewhere about the pixel clock for nvidia cards (prob AMD too in catalyst control). I uninstalled the patches and CRU then went in EVGA precision: go to the configuration menu (gear icon top left) then configure. It brings up a pixel clock slider that automatically sets your refresh rate for you. No patches, CRU, or even a restart, required for me. Automatically sets the refresh rate in nvidia control panel and in your display control panel (right click+screen resolution+adv settings).
> 
> Again, this could be common knowledge by now so I'm sorry if I'm all excited over here for something that everyone knows about already lol. I couldn't go past 96 hz without a faint slightly transparent red smear/line about a half inch wide showing up on the right side of the monitor. So I just keep it at 92 hz.


Without using the toasyX Clock Patchers that modifies the NVIDIA video driver to remove the 330 MHz pixel clock limit for dual-link DVI and the 400 MHz limit for SLI ..And the AMD Clock Patcher that modifies the AMD/ATI video driver to remove the 330 MHz pixel clock limit for dual-link DVI...Without using ToasyX patches anything over About 96hz not be working as i don't not believe EVGA precision patches the Nvidia or AMD drivers pixel clock limits!...and without this you simply will not get much higher than about 96hz....NVCP may report your higher refresh rates are working as in the picture below..yt windows will *not* will not be seeing your higher custom without using using toasyx patches!

Also in picture you can clearly see that NVCP is reporting 120hz however windows can not see it!..that picture was taken when i was using CRU to create my Custom refresh rates and attempting to keep Nvidia Geforce expereance installed!...However CRU uses EDID overrides that conflict with Nvidia Geforce expereance so you ether have to uninsatll Nvidia Geforce expereance or import the blank-extension.dat into CRU at the time of creating your Custom resolutions if you are using Nvidia! ...also its worth nothing that the below picture was taken using CRU with the blank-extension.dat imported into CRU!... However the blank-extension.dat is far from a perfect fix attempting to keep Nvidia Geforce expereance install while using CRU EDID overrides which still results in windows on many many occasions simply refusing to see your custom resolutions...which is why we now use a monitor driver using Nvidia cards which allows using NVCP to create our custom resolutions and them to be seen by windows and therefore in games without any conflicts what so ever!

I believe what you see in the picture below with NVCP reporting 120hz yet windows *not* being able to see it!... which means that neither will your games!... will be happening to you using EVGA precision with no driver patch...if you have set a 120hz profile in EVGA precision open up a game and turn Vsync on in game graphic settings use the lowest detail settings in the game so you are able to hit high FPS... now if your game reports 120 fps it is all workng fine!...however without patching the drivers which i am sure EVGA precision does not do then you will never hit 120FPS in any game using Vsync becaurse your custom resolutions without driver patches are simply not working.

Edit :However i would be very interested if it did in fact patch the drivers correctly as it would be another option for us all..i am going to do some research now on EVGA precision..thanks for the info









Edit 2:- I have found a post from Toasyx and now believe i was right and it does not work at least for SLI users and it seems it only works at lower refresh rates as i thought...ToasyX post below concerning the use of EVGA precision...it seems it only is using the regular patch and your refresh rates will indeed be capped at around 96hz if your using SLI...will do some more reading about though









More info here!

http://overlordforum.com/topic/452-evga-pixel-clock-oc/

Quote from Toasyx on EVGA precision below:-

The patch is still needed in three cases:

1. SLI needs the full patch to work properly beyond 400 MHz pixel clock.
2. Some 500-series cards are limited to 400 MHz without the full patch. 600-series and newer cards are not limited.
3. CRU needs the regular patch to add resolutions beyond 330 MHz pixel clock. The regular patch won't break HDCP.
600-series and newer cards without SLI don't need the patch when using the NVIDIA control panel or the EVGA pixel clock feature.



Edit 3:- Another quote from that forum below

"So I got my Tempest in just a few hours ago and the first thing I did was try this utility to see what it could do. I have found that it looks like it let you go to 120 +, but in reality it caps at 96hz. even when I select 120 or 128 (129 is where my panel starts to flicker) it says it is pushing a 480+ MHz pixel clock, but if I toggle the selected display to my old monitor and back, it shows 96Hz framerate at a 390MHz pixel clock. Off to try Toasty's now!"


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> After replying to dream seller in regards to shipping delay i asked for my Monitor to be double and asked if it truly would be sent out tomorrow (today)
> 
> This was his reply
> 
> Hi, We are really sorry for all the inconveniences.
> 
> I totally understand you are upset with us, I am deeply sorry for that.
> Unfortunately almost half of the monitors we have received from the manufacture were defected ones,
> there has been continuous back-and-forth process.
> Therefore we only could ship out few monitors a day, there has been a long cue waiting for our monitors.
> Your monitor will be shipped within this week according to our tech.
> If you are not happy with that we will immediately cancel and refund for you.
> 
> Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
> We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
> Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us.
> We will continuously improve our service for better business.
> 
> Thank you"


Well at least you can be sure they are been checked; and that what they are shipping are good monitors - fingers crossed for mine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have had zero issues with anything except this monitor, I also bought it as a refurb. Never had to rma anything from them. I wont have to rma this either if I decide to get something else, just return it locally.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sergioosh*
> 
> C'mon it's not fair to diss company because you had no luck with it. I, on the contrary, had only good expierience with Asus. Hell, I never had to call their support. On the other hand, I did have different types of devices from Asus than you: mainly motherboards and tablets, so maybe that's their good side, while laptops and monitors are the bad side


"Never had to call support" - there's the reason you have a "good view" on the company.
I've bought: Laptops, screens, motherboards and soundcards. Guess what - every single item listed (and yes my family and I bought MULTIPLE variations of them at DIFFERENT points in our lives -> I'm talking in the last 15years) -> they ALL went bad, they ALL were badly treated by Asus' customer support and they ALL were pretty much chucked out in the bin.

I stand firmly and very much true to my "analysis" or "thoughts" about Asus.
I heard in the USA it's better because they care more about the customer, but in the UK - not a flying monkey could be given. I even went to trading standards to take them to court over a certain item. When I was told: "As they're a Taiwanese company, you'll have to contact their HQ via a letter informing them of your decisions you want to take legally" I gave up.
That's how much I hate Asus. Crap-sus sorry.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Don't buy red cap. He has screwed multiple people on this board.


Let's see.

EDIT here are members that bought from red cap: Not sure where's the huge concern?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/14970#post_21918618
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/11340#post_21421816
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/9120#post_21176317
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/8750#post_21096398
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1750#post_20024714
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1390#post_19983786

Yet, you kevin keep slandering the seller?


----------



## samiam1651

Figured I would post since this thread has been so helpful with getting everything set up with my new Korean pls monitor.

I ordered the Ultimate Pixel Perfect from excellentcastle for $340. It was definitely worth it, seeing as how i received just what the title said i would. Not a single dead pixel and some very minor BLB on the bottom left, but not enough that I'm going to risk opening up the monitor. I was pleasantly surprised by the stand. I kept reading people saying how bad the stand was. I have had no problems with it whatsoever, in fact it seems to be better than the Dell S2340M that I have flanking it.

My only problem thus far has been this: I recently got a new gpu, a Gigabyte 780. When I had my old gpu I was able to overclock my monitor to 96hz, any higher and I would get artifacting. Now with my new gpu I can no longer overclock. The overclock would be fine while on the desktop, but whenever I played a game about 1-2 minutes in my gpu drivers would crash and I would have to restart my computer. I clocked the monitor back down to 60hz and the problem went away. I tried searching this thread, but with 1500+ pages that's a lot of searching. If anyone has any ideas or solutions that would be great, thanks in advance!


----------



## lawson67

I wish my 2 new AMD Radeon R9 290 cards would hurry up and arrive they should be here by now!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I wish my 2 new AMD Radeon R9 290 cards would hurry up and arrive they should be here by now!


I'm awaiting my 2nd GTX680, each time I hear a van I'm like....oooohhh UPSSS!!!! But no...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orwasmadi*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> After Screening this Club for a while i've decided to get my self one, and managed to find a good *X-star* and arrived today.
> Overclocked successfully over Nvidia control panel to *120 Hertz.* and implemented using Windows monitor Settings.
> 
> However, I am facing a strange ass problem, once i connected the monitor for the first time, my pc started to suffer from *freezing spikes* every 15 seconds, the spike last for 3 seconds then everything returns to normal, checked the task manager for any suspicious Software, still nothing to see, that really blow my mind, before using the monitor everything was fine ??
> 
> Furthermore, i've noticed that the colors in my monitor needs alot of calibration, in comparison to my second monitor (HP IPS panel), the white in my X-star looks so much *dark and almost Green* !!
> i've tried to install the Color profiles mentioned in OP, but most of the links there are broken, could anyone please direct me to a downloadable color profile for 120Hz.
> 
> Hint, i am on SLI if that could matter.
> 
> Sorry for bad English, trying my best


I would say - get it out of SLI, to eliminate any SLI problem for starters.
Then reduce it to 96hz OC.

If the problem still persists, go back to 60hz.
If the problem still persists after that, send back the monitor as it would seem defective if it looks "green"


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samiam1651*
> 
> Figured I would post since this thread has been so helpful with getting everything set up with my new Korean pls monitor.
> 
> I ordered the Ultimate Pixel Perfect from excellentcastle for $340. It was definitely worth it, seeing as how i received just what the title said i would. Not a single dead pixel and some very minor BLB on the bottom left, but not enough that I'm going to risk opening up the monitor. I was pleasantly surprised by the stand. I kept reading people saying how bad the stand was. I have had no problems with it whatsoever, in fact it seems to be better than the Dell S2340M that I have flanking it.
> 
> My only problem thus far has been this: I recently got a new gpu, a Gigabyte 780. When I had my old gpu I was able to overclock my monitor to 96hz, any higher and I would get artifacting. Now with my new gpu I can no longer overclock. The overclock would be fine while on the desktop, but whenever I played a game about 1-2 minutes in my gpu drivers would crash and I would have to restart my computer. I clocked the monitor back down to 60hz and the problem went away. I tried searching this thread, but with 1500+ pages that's a lot of searching. If anyone has any ideas or solutions that would be great, thanks in advance!


HI i am very happy you are pleased with your new Ultimate Pixel Perfect from excellentcastle!...and welcome to the club









Now how are you over clocking your monitor?...are you using CRU or the monitor driver method using NVCP?...also which patch are you using?..the full patch needed for SLI or the regular patch or no patch at all?...also you say you just bought a GTX780 i am guessing this is a single card and you are not ruining sli?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> "Never had to call support" - there's the reason you have a "good view" on the company.
> I've bought: Laptops, screens, motherboards and soundcards. Guess what - every single item listed (and yes my family and I bought MULTIPLE variations of them at DIFFERENT points in our lives -> I'm talking in the last 15years) -> they ALL went bad, they ALL were badly treated by Asus' customer support and they ALL were pretty much chucked out in the bin.
> 
> I stand firmly and very much true to my "analysis" or "thoughts" about Asus.
> I heard in the USA it's better because they care more about the customer, but in the UK - not a flying monkey could be given. I even went to trading standards to take them to court over a certain item. When I was told: "As they're a Taiwanese company, you'll have to contact their HQ via a letter informing them of your decisions you want to take legally" I gave up.
> That's how much I hate Asus. Crap-sus sorry.
> Let's see.
> 
> EDIT here are members that bought from red cap: Not sure where's the huge concern?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/14970#post_21918618
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/11340#post_21421816
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/9120#post_21176317
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/8750#post_21096398
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1750#post_20024714
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/1390#post_19983786
> 
> Yet, you kevin keep slandering the seller?


Yes, I will, since:

http://forums.redflagdeals.com/rfds-official-korean-27-2-5k-2560x1440-resolution-monitor-deals-1183236/123/#post16927887
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040487850&postcount=862
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040500215&postcount=870
http://forums.redflagdeals.com/rfds-official-korean-27-2-5k-2560x1440-resolution-monitor-deals-1183236/60/#post16218852

I've followed these monitors since we first knew about them (so far back in fact that I have an original Catleap "2B") and by far, without question, red-cap has the most negative experiences and outright "screw the buyer" incidents that I can remember. Yes, most of the time, he's perfectly fine as a seller; but those times when you *do* need him to step up to the plate? Not so reliable then.

Oh, and he was the first person I remember to implement the "refund a bit of money per stuck pixel if you bought a perfect pixel" scam. That sealed the deal for me.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Yes, I will, since:
> 
> http://forums.redflagdeals.com/rfds-official-korean-27-2-5k-2560x1440-resolution-monitor-deals-1183236/123/#post16927887
> http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040487850&postcount=862
> http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040500215&postcount=870
> http://forums.redflagdeals.com/rfds-official-korean-27-2-5k-2560x1440-resolution-monitor-deals-1183236/60/#post16218852
> 
> I've followed these monitors since we first knew about them (so far back in fact that I have an original Catleap "2B") and by far, without question, red-cap has the most negative experiences and outright "screw the buyer" incidents that I can remember. Yes, most of the time, he's perfectly fine as a seller; but those times when you *do* need him to step up to the plate? Not so reliable then.


Fair enough - thanks for the heads up.
I'll definitely give you all my experiences that I have, be it positive or negative.

SO far it's only positive from me.
He was the ONLY seller to get back to me, very fast, and reply to my questions one a personal level. He wasn't one that responded as if he worked for a company, and didn't really know what they were selling. Unfortunately, with excellent castle I got that experience. No matter how their monitors might be, but my experience with their customer service was hit and miss (not bad by any stretch of imagination, but that's what I'm saying) - different people replying, different answers being given - just made me confused.

PS. all those linked posts seem to be from one user or yourself. I'm not defending the seller, but saying that would have been an isolated case.
Let's face it all of us are taking risks when buying from ANY seller (especially on the dead pixel policy).

Now if I was in that position (which I have been) I would call ebay, file a claim on ebay and would get my money back in days.
I had a problem with a seller where I bought an amp - the amp was defective - I had paid CASH IN HAND - ebay said: "we're sorry for the problem, next time use paypal for protection, we'll refund you the difference".

EBay refunded me in FULL the amount for the amp and gave me a free postage slip return for the amp.
Till this day, the amp is STILL STUCK at the depot as the seller never picked it up.
The seller lost no money either though - ebay directly paid me via paypal.
Thus the winners are the seller, the losers are ebay and the guy that got nothing was me.

So there's always a way - especially when you got a "written agreement" and/or a description.
If the seller breaks the agreement in anyway, you're in your right to claim it via paypal and ebay directly.
Although it is ALWAYS suggested to contact the seller first (which is what I always do in disputes)


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orwasmadi*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> After Screening this Club for a while i've decided to get my self one, and managed to find a good *X-star* and arrived today.
> Overclocked successfully over Nvidia control panel to *120 Hertz.* and implemented using Windows monitor Settings.
> 
> However, I am facing a strange ass problem, once i connected the monitor for the first time, my pc started to suffer from *freezing spikes* every 15 seconds, the spike last for 3 seconds then everything returns to normal, checked the task manager for any suspicious Software, still nothing to see, that really blow my mind, before using the monitor everything was fine ??
> 
> Furthermore, i've noticed that the colors in my monitor needs alot of calibration, in comparison to my second monitor (HP IPS panel), the white in my X-star looks so much *dark and almost Green* !!
> i've tried to install the Color profiles mentioned in OP, but most of the links there are broken, could anyone please direct me to a downloadable color profile for 120Hz.
> 
> Hint, i am on SLI if that could matter.
> 
> Sorry for bad English, trying my best


Are you using the full patch?...nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe....and i know it sounds silly but your cable is on tight and you are using a duel link cable right?

Also you are more than welcome to use my 120hz or 96hz ICC profiles that i calibrated at a brightness of 200 cd/m which is aboiut 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button and 17 clicks from a black screen for the 96hz profile

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Fair enough - thanks for the heads up.
> I'll definitely give you all my experiences that I have, be it positive or negative.
> 
> SO far it's only positive from me.
> He was the ONLY seller to get back to me, very fast, and reply to my questions one a personal level. He wasn't one that responded as if he worked for a company, and didn't really know what they were selling. Unfortunately, with excellent castle I got that experience. No matter how their monitors might be, but my experience with their customer service was hit and miss (not bad by any stretch of imagination, but that's what I'm saying) - different people replying, different answers being given - just made me confused.
> 
> PS. all those linked posts seem to be from one user or yourself. I'm not defending the seller, but saying that would have been an isolated case.
> Let's face it all of us are taking risks when buying from ANY seller (especially on the dead pixel policy).
> 
> Now if I was in that position (which I have been) I would call ebay, file a claim on ebay and would get my money back in days.
> I had a problem with a seller where I bought an amp - the amp was defective - I had paid CASH IN HAND - ebay said: "we're sorry for the problem, next time use paypal for protection, we'll refund you the difference".
> 
> EBay refunded me in FULL the amount for the amp and gave me a free postage slip return for the amp.
> Till this day, the amp is STILL STUCK at the depot as the seller never picked it up.
> The seller lost no money either though - ebay directly paid me via paypal.
> Thus the winners are the seller, the losers are ebay and the guy that got nothing was me.
> 
> So there's always a way - especially when you got a "written agreement" and/or a description.
> If the seller breaks the agreement in anyway, you're in your right to claim it via paypal and ebay directly.
> Although it is ALWAYS suggested to contact the seller first (which is what I always do in disputes)


Two posts were from the same guy, but the second post was his experience with other buyers from red cap messaging him that they had the same experience.

You're covered by paypal, definitely; the problem for the buyers in their cases was that the protection window is 45 days; and in all those cases, the buyers were beyond the 45 day window when problems occured, or the dispute was extended beyond the 45 day window, whereupon he dropped out of sight.


----------



## tehsprayer

When I try to OC to 120 hz I get green lines constant any fix?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Two posts were from the same guy, but the second post was his experience with other buyers from red cap messaging him that they had the same experience.
> 
> You're covered by paypal, definitely; the problem for the buyers in their cases was that the protection window is 45 days; and in all those cases, the buyers were beyond the 45 day window when problems occured, or the dispute was extended beyond the 45 day window, whereupon he dropped out of sight.


then seeing as it wasn't DOA, and it was working and/or the buyer didn't take action in the first 45 days - that's the buyers fault.

You go and buy a motherboard now, or ram, or any part in your PC.
You have it for 14 days (some are lucky enough to get 30days) and if ANYTHING goes wrong AFTER those days, then you have to sort it out with the manufacturer and NOT the reseller.
Ie. after 30 days I would have to go to QNIX.

I'm literally taking the gamble here that the monitor will work, for a long period of time.
But when you buy ANYTHING on ebay you HAVE TO be aware of this. It's simple international buying and selling rules.

Ebay sellers are often NOT authorised sellers. To add tot hat they are an A- stock - "defective" from day1.

So, we're all taking a gamble again. I wouldn't go as far as saying due to one buyer experience, we can base it.
I've even proven there's more positive that's been said about the seller vs bad.
Again, I really REALLY REALLY couldn't give a crap about which seller I buy from. I'm definitely not defending ANY of the actions taken by any seller that acts like that. But in fairness it's in his right to do so.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehsprayer*
> 
> When I try to OC to 120 hz I get green lines constant any fix?


Your monitor doesn't OC that high. Try lower.
Or try another DVI cable (far fetched but could work)


----------



## samiam1651

I used CRU to create the 96hz overclock and then changed the refresh rate in NVCP. Is that the correct procedure? As far as the patch goes, I just used the regular patch, I'm not running SLI.


----------



## tehsprayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> then seeing as it wasn't DOA, and it was working and/or the buyer didn't take action in the first 45 days - that's the buyers fault.
> 
> You go and buy a motherboard now, or ram, or any part in your PC.
> You have it for 14 days (some are lucky enough to get 30days) and if ANYTHING goes wrong AFTER those days, then you have to sort it out with the manufacturer and NOT the reseller.
> Ie. after 30 days I would have to go to QNIX.
> 
> I'm literally taking the gamble here that the monitor will work, for a long period of time.
> But when you buy ANYTHING on ebay you HAVE TO be aware of this. It's simple international buying and selling rules.
> 
> Ebay sellers are often NOT authorised sellers. To add tot hat they are an A- stock - "defective" from day1.
> 
> So, we're all taking a gamble again. I wouldn't go as far as saying due to one buyer experience, we can base it.
> I've even proven there's more positive that's been said about the seller vs bad.
> Again, I really REALLY REALLY couldn't give a crap about which seller I buy from. I'm definitely not defending ANY of the actions taken by any seller that acts like that. But in fairness it's in his right to do so.
> Your monitor doesn't OC that high. Try lower.
> Or try another DVI cable (far fetched but could work)


I'll just keep 96 hz, not much of a difference anyways right?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehsprayer*
> 
> I'll just keep 96 hz, not much of a difference anyways right?


well do whatever your monitor can handle, not all can do 120


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> So, we're all taking a gamble again. I wouldn't go as far as saying due to one buyer experience, we can base it.
> I've even proven there's more positive that's been said about the seller vs bad.
> Again, I really REALLY REALLY couldn't give a crap about which seller I buy from. I'm definitely not defending ANY of the actions taken by any seller that acts like that. But in fairness it's in his right to do so.


I agree wholehearted. Buying an ebay monitor is inherently risky, and all buyers should understand that (too many don't). And also that there's more good than bad from red-cap; no argument there, as there definitely is more good than bad. However, I see no reason not to steer people away from one seller whose reputation for "doing the right thing" (especially if he isn't _required_ to) is less than stellar, especially since there are other sellers who do go out of their way to make sure buyers are satisfied. We should try to make sure that no one else gets burned, no?


----------



## Watagump

I am going to post it here first, when digital gets his virtual 4k monitor, its not going to be able to be overclocked. He will have frame skipping, lets see if I end up being right.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I agree wholehearted. Buying an ebay monitor is inherently risky, and all buyers should understand that (too many don't). And also that there's more good than bad from red-cap; no argument there, as there definitely is more good than bad. However, I see no reason not to steer people away from one seller whose reputation for "doing the right thing" (especially if he isn't _required_ to) is less than stellar, especially since there are other sellers who do go out of their way to make sure buyers are satisfied. We should try to make sure that no one else gets burned, no?


definitely - but a seller could also amend their bad too.
If the given seller was consistently bad, then I would totally agree.
But after a single issue, I wouldn't be tempted to do so. I totally agree, we want to BEST for all of the buyers and want the BEST seller.

The OP shows clearly which seller has been bought from most.
So for your "normal" QNIX or Xtar go via them. But for the True10 - we only got 2 sellers.
I bought from one, and another OCNers bought from the other. So it will show a perfect representation of both.

Iv'e also contacted BOTH sellers and chose not only the one that gave me a better deal, but the one that responded to me on a personal level rather than a "company level".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am going to post it here first, when digital gets his virtual 4k monitor, its not going to be able to be overclocked. He will have frame skipping, lets see if I end up being right.


I bought the virtual 4k one too - as for "not being able to OC" - at what res? 4k? Yeah sure.
Both descriptions for the 4k one say they should OC to 120hz.

Other than that, I think digital and I are literally the only ones that have ordered a true10 monitor. At least on OCN.

Other monitors that were put to "4k" weren't the true10 ones, just the "standard" qnix ones.

In all honesty I'll be happy with 96hz - My GPUs won't output more than that on given games at 1440p so I won't even need to hit 120hz - but will try to do so for the "sake of the argument" - to see what these monitors can do - I'll push even further too, see what more I can get - ie 144hz


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am going to post it here first, when digital gets his virtual 4k monitor, its not going to be able to be overclocked. He will have frame skipping, lets see if I end up being right.


Why do you have to be such a hater?









And so it begins.. both should be here for the weekend.









*NERDGASM 1:*

SHIPPED: 27" Matte QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DP Multi True10 2...

*NERDGASM 2:*

Item # Description Qty
OT_X270OC_A10 Tempest X270OC (Up to 120Hz Capable)- Glossy - + 10Ft 24AWG DVI ($13.99) 1


----------



## Watagump

It is being said that all multiple input monitors drop frames after overclocking, this is one time I hope the info is wrong.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> definitely - but a seller could also amend their bad too.
> If the given seller was consistently bad, then I would totally agree.
> But after a single issue, I wouldn't be tempted to do so. I totally agree, we want to BEST for all of the buyers and want the BEST seller.
> 
> The OP shows clearly which seller has been bought from most.
> So for your "normal" QNIX or Xtar go via them. But for the True10 - we only got 2 sellers.
> I bought from one, and another OCNers bought from the other. So it will show a perfect representation of both.
> 
> Iv'e also contacted BOTH sellers and chose not only the one that gave me a better deal, but the one that responded to me on a personal level rather than a "company level".
> I bought the virtual 4k one too - as for "not being able to OC" - at what res? 4k? Yeah sure.
> Both descriptions for the 4k one say they should OC to 120hz.
> 
> Other than that, I think digital and I are literally the only ones that have ordered a true10 monitor. At least on OCN.
> 
> Other monitors that were put to "4k" weren't the true10 ones, just the "standard" qnix ones.
> 
> In all honesty I'll be happy with 96hz - My GPUs won't output more than that on given games at 1440p so I won't even need to hit 120hz - but will try to do so for the "sake of the argument" - to see what these monitors can do - I'll push even further too, see what more I can get - ie 144hz


I have ordered from most of the Korean sellers, including my original Yamakasi from the now defunct dcsamsungmall. I haven't had a single bad experience except my original Qnix matte from bigclothcraft had HORRIBLE backlight bleed. Don't know if it was really his fault but the blb was so bad, it should have been caught or returned.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Why do you have to be such a hater?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And so it begins.. both should be here for the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NERDGASM 1:*
> 
> SHIPPED: 27" Matte QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DP Multi True10 2...
> 
> *NERDGASM 2:*
> 
> Item # Description Qty
> OT_X270OC_A10 Tempest X270OC (Up to 120Hz Capable)- Glossy - + 10Ft 24AWG DVI ($13.99) 1


why did you order the tempest?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I have ordered from most of the Korean sellers, including my original Yamakasi from the now defunct dcsamsungmall. I haven't had a single bad experience except my original Qnix matte from bigclothcraft had HORRIBLE backlight bleed. Don't know if it was really his fault but the blb was so bad, it should have been caught or returned.


daaayme cool!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It is being said that all multiple input monitors drop frames after overclocking, this is one time I hope the info is wrong.


Hmmmm should be interesting to test. Why is that though?
Take as you will but my LG IPS234V that has multiple inputs doesn't drop frames at 70hz (default is 60hz, only a mini 10hz OC)


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It is being said that all multiple input monitors drop frames after overclocking, this is one time I hope the info is wrong.


That is the big question right? If it turns out to be a big steaming pile of poodoo, I'll be asking for a prompt refund. This model came out of the blue and has some pretty lofty features and specs.. not to mention, most VA panels are extremely expensive.

Dubbed: I ordered the Tempest because I want a three way standoff this weekend. I PREFER glossy displays:

Qnix Glossy vs Tempest Glossy vs Qnix Matte True10. Also, the Tempest has a 14 day no risk return policy.


----------



## orwasmadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm awaiting my 2nd GTX680, each time I hear a van I'm like....oooohhh UPSSS!!!! But no...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would say - get it out of SLI, to eliminate any SLI problem for starters.
> Then reduce it to 96hz OC.
> 
> If the problem still persists, go back to 60hz.
> If the problem still persists after that, send back the monitor as it would seem defective if it looks "green"


I've lowered my overclocking to 96hz and the freeze stop, that is so strange








thanks for the advice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Are you using the full patch?...nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe....and i know it sounds silly but your cable is on tight and you are using a duel link cable right?
> 
> Also you are more than welcome to use my 120hz or 96hz ICC profiles that i calibrated at a brightness of 200 cd/m which is aboiut 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button and 17 clicks from a black screen for the 96hz profile
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean by full patch ?
also, since i've lowered my overclocking to 96hz, can i still use the ICC you provided or you will link me the right one ?


----------



## orwasmadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orwasmadi*
> 
> Also, *** IS THIS SPOT ???


Can you guys tell me how to get rid of this cloud ?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> The OP shows clearly which seller has been bought from most.
> So for your "normal" QNIX or Xtar go via them. But for the True10 - we only got 2 sellers.
> I bought from one, and another OCNers bought from the other. So it will show a perfect representation of both.


Haha, hopefully we'll get better consistency with the "true10" monitors. I don't have high hopes for it being much better than other multi-input monitors - my "marketing-BS" sense are tingling off the charts!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> OT_X270OC_A10 Tempest X270OC (Up to 120Hz Capable)- Glossy - + 10Ft 24AWG DVI ($13.99) 1


Interesting. They're back in stock? The Overlord monitors had been out of stock for a long time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hmmmm should be interesting to test. Why is that though?


We've never really figured it out why it is that multi-input monitors skip frames. The general consensus though is that there's a difference in how the monitors treat the signals.

Video Card sends a 90hz signal to the monitor.
Multi input takes the signal, passes it through an add-in board, which translates it through the scalar. Somewhere in this chain of events, one part is limited to 60hz (either programmatically or hardwired) and only outputs a 60hz signal to the panel.
Single input monitor take the video signal... and since every possible cost has been removed, the specific part that's limiting the signal is gone; so the original signal is passed through to the panel with minimal (if any) processing; resulting in both less input lag and the ability to run the panel at whatever refresh rate the video card is sending.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Haha, hopefully we'll get better consistency with the "true10" monitors. I don't have high hopes for it being much better than other multi-input monitors - my "marketing-BS" sense are tingling off the charts!
> Interesting. They're back in stock? The Overlord monitors had been out of stock for a long time.
> We've never really figured it out why it is that multi-input monitors skip frames. The general consensus though is that there's a difference in how the monitors treat the signals.
> 
> Video Card sends a 90hz signal to the monitor.
> Multi input takes the signal, passes it through an add-in board, which translates it through the scalar. Somewhere in this chain of events, one part is limited to 60hz (either programmatically or hardwired) and only outputs a 60hz signal to the panel.
> Single input monitor take the video signal... and since every possible cost has been removed, the specific part that's limiting the signal is gone; so the original signal is passed through to the panel with minimal (if any) processing; resulting in both less input lag and the ability to run the panel at whatever refresh rate the video card is sending.


I see thanks for the info +rep

I hope I didn't make a mistake. But that said I'm not big on OCing it THAT much ie. to 120hz


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> They're back in stock? The Overlord monitors had been out of stock for a long time.
> .


And they sold out almost instantly. I snagged one right when I got the alert. I have been trying out a lot of monitors and video cards as of late because I am a freak and love to test out and report. Also, both IPSLEDMONITORS.com and Overlord have good return policies. I recently tried a Catleap 2B Extreme ($700) and the panel was defective so I sent it right back for refund.

I've decided and stuck with my video card (Gigabyte 780 Ti OC Ghz Edition) and so now it's time to test this weekend and stick with my display, return/sell the others. I am sticking with my fave display after this weekend! (Until OLED hits)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I see thanks for the info +rep
> 
> I hope I didn't make a mistake. But that said I'm not big on OCing it THAT much ie. to 120hz


I'm sure you didn't. You're getting a 10bit-monitor with DisplayPort and an AHVA panel for cheap, even if it can't overclock. If it weren't a hassle, I would replace my Qnix with a "true10" simply because having 2 overclockable 1440p monitors is kinda pointless, and I want to hook up my laptop to it...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> And they sold out almost instantly. I snagged one right when I got the alert. I have been trying out a lot of monitors and video cards as of late because I am a freak and love to test out and report. Also, both IPSLEDMONITORS.com and Overlord have good return policies. I recently tried a Catleap 2B Extreme ($700) and the panel was defective so I sent it right back for refund.
> 
> I've decided and stuck with my video card (Gigabyte 780 Ti OC Ghz Edition) and so now it's time to test this weekend and stick with my display, return/sell the others. I am sticking with my fave display after this weekend! (Until OLED hits)


Haha, lucky! Good job on snagging one


----------



## jameyscott

I'm really interested in the 10bit panel. I got really lucky with my "standard" qnix, but I could always use it as an accessory display or sell it to my friend who wants one at cost. He'd be perfectly happy with at cost since it is dang near perfect. Slight bbl, but no dead or stuck pixels!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> And they sold out almost instantly. I snagged one right when I got the alert. I have been trying out a lot of monitors and video cards as of late because I am a freak and love to test out and report. Also, both IPSLEDMONITORS.com and Overlord have good return policies. I recently tried a Catleap 2B Extreme ($700) and the panel was defective so I sent it right back for refund.
> 
> I've decided and stuck with my video card (Gigabyte 780 Ti OC Ghz Edition) and so now it's time to test this weekend and stick with my display, return/sell the others. I am sticking with my fave display after this weekend! (Until OLED hits)


too much money, too much!


----------



## lawson67

Yay my graphics cards have arrived!..and i am going to install them right now !..so if you never hear from me again its because i blow my rig up...but it was lovely knowing you all


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yay my graphics cards have arrived!..and i am going to install them right now !..so if you never hear from me again its because i blow my rig up...but it was lovely knowing you all


Good luck mate!

Christmas in March!









My wife is gonna kill me.. My Catleap Extreme is still sitting in the front room. The Overlord and TRUE10 should both be arriving from UPS at the same time LOL.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Good luck mate!
> 
> Christmas in March!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My wife is gonna kill me.. My Catleap Extreme is still sitting in the front room. The Overlord and TRUE10 should both be arriving from UPS at the same time LOL.


Let's hope the TRUE10s are all they claim to be. Want to get in there early if they are up to snuff. Can see them jacking up prices otherwise.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Right did some more digging around of the 10bit monitor - doesn't seem to be false - or else why would ALL sellers that have the 10bit one, especially big sellers and trusted ones, be lying - surely isn't worth their time?
See below:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-Monitor-/111294825507?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19e9b04423

One thing to note is that MOST or almost NO seller offers a "no dead pixel" policy on these 10bit ones.
If you ask me, these are a new QNIX panel, that's just off the shelves.
The 8bit one and the one that most people have are much more popular and "older".
Seems the 10bit one would be a different stock line and possibly from a different manufacturer.

You'll be able to see below:
there's:
-8bit single input -> 120hz OC capable
-8bit multiple input -> no mention of 120hz
-10bit multiple input -> 120hz OC capable.

If that's the case the 10bit is the daddy of all monitors (very much plausible, considering it is more expensive)


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Let's hope the TRUE10s are all they claim to be. Want to get in there early if they are up to snuff. Can see them jacking up prices otherwise.


Yeah, I agree. It's insane that someone that speaks PERFECT English hasn't gone over there and worked with them on eBay/marketing. Maybe I'll take the job...









Trying to get tech details, working with returns, etc with them is nigh impossible. I


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Yeah, I agree. It's insane that someone that speaks PERFECT English hasn't gone over there and worked with them on eBay/marketing. Maybe I'll take the job...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get tech details, working with returns, etc with them is nigh impossible. I


only mini thing though - you'll need to speak Korean - at least to deal with other affairs internally.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> only mini thing though - you'll need to speak Korean - at least to deal with other affairs internally.


Party pooper


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Party pooper


hehehe








PS. I'm still waiting for my 2nd GTX680 - was supposed to come today - still hasn't


----------



## dawnoftheh3ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Without using the toasyX Clock Patchers that modifies the NVIDIA video driver to remove the 330 MHz pixel clock limit for dual-link DVI and the 400 MHz limit for SLI ..And the AMD Clock Patcher that modifies the AMD/ATI video driver to remove the 330 MHz pixel clock limit for dual-link DVI...Without using ToasyX patches anything over About 96hz not be working as i don't not believe EVGA precision patches the Nvidia or AMD drivers pixel clock limits!...and without this you simply will not get much higher than about 96hz....NVCP may report your higher refresh rates are working as in the picture below..yt windows will *not* will not be seeing your higher custom without using using toasyx patches!
> 
> Also in picture you can clearly see that NVCP is reporting 120hz however windows can not see it!..that picture was taken when i was using CRU to create my Custom refresh rates and attempting to keep Nvidia Geforce expereance installed!...However CRU uses EDID overrides that conflict with Nvidia Geforce expereance so you ether have to uninsatll Nvidia Geforce expereance or import the blank-extension.dat into CRU at the time of creating your Custom resolutions if you are using Nvidia! ...also its worth nothing that the below picture was taken using CRU with the blank-extension.dat imported into CRU!... However the blank-extension.dat is far from a perfect fix attempting to keep Nvidia Geforce expereance install while using CRU EDID overrides which still results in windows on many many occasions simply refusing to see your custom resolutions...which is why we now use a monitor driver using Nvidia cards which allows using NVCP to create our custom resolutions and them to be seen by windows and therefore in games without any conflicts what so ever!
> 
> I believe what you see in the picture below with NVCP reporting 120hz yet windows *not* being able to see it!... which means that neither will your games!... will be happening to you using EVGA precision with no driver patch...if you have set a 120hz profile in EVGA precision open up a game and turn Vsync on in game graphic settings use the lowest detail settings in the game so you are able to hit high FPS... now if your game reports 120 fps it is all workng fine!...however without patching the drivers which i am sure EVGA precision does not do then you will never hit 120FPS in any game using Vsync becaurse your custom resolutions without driver patches are simply not working.
> 
> Edit :However i would be very interested if it did in fact patch the drivers correctly as it would be another option for us all..i am going to do some research now on EVGA precision..thanks for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit 2:- I have found a post from Toasyx and now believe i was right and it does not work at least for SLI users and it seems it only works at lower refresh rates as i thought...ToasyX post below concerning the use of EVGA precision...it seems it only is using the regular patch and your refresh rates will indeed be capped at around 96hz if your using SLI...will do some more reading about though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More info here!
> 
> http://overlordforum.com/topic/452-evga-pixel-clock-oc/
> 
> Quote from Toasyx on EVGA precision below:-
> 
> The patch is still needed in three cases:
> 
> 1. SLI needs the full patch to work properly beyond 400 MHz pixel clock.
> 2. Some 500-series cards are limited to 400 MHz without the full patch. 600-series and newer cards are not limited.
> 3. CRU needs the regular patch to add resolutions beyond 330 MHz pixel clock. The regular patch won't break HDCP.
> 600-series and newer cards without SLI don't need the patch when using the NVIDIA control panel or the EVGA pixel clock feature.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit 3:- Another quote from that forum below
> 
> "So I got my Tempest in just a few hours ago and the first thing I did was try this utility to see what it could do. I have found that it looks like it let you go to 120 +, but in reality it caps at 96hz. even when I select 120 or 128 (129 is where my panel starts to flicker) it says it is pushing a 480+ MHz pixel clock, but if I toggle the selected display to my old monitor and back, it shows 96Hz framerate at a 390MHz pixel clock. Off to try Toasty's now!"


Thanks lawson for all that info! 96hz and higher does however show up in windows display settings and NVCP w/out patch for me as well as in the in game menus, but I'm not running SLI...yet







. I plan to order my 2nd 780 this friday however so I will probably be re-installing that patch. I will try the vsync as you mentioned and see what fraps is limiting it at. I'm a bit confused however about what you are saying in regards to conflictions with GeForce Experience (the EDID overrides and blank-extension.dat---what are these?).

I also had a question about higher grade DVI-D cables. I bought this one from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010CSDM4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and at the time I didn't know about the evga pixel clock so I was using the patches and CRU and running at 96 hz. I was in a game of BF4 and switched out the cable that came with the monitor for the new one and couldn't get the monitor to display a picture. Is there something i missed about the one I ordered? I even tried later uninstalling the patches and setting everything back to 60hz then hooking up the new cable and still couldn't get it to work


----------



## loki993

Question on this......Ive seen 2 different reviews of this same monitor...one appears to have PWM and one did not...so is a crap shoot weather or not I get it?

Also it seems the glossy ones are getting harder to find..are they running out or something?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> hehehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS. I'm still waiting for my 2nd GTX680 - was supposed to come today - still hasn't


UPS sucks, not because I never get my items, its that my UPS truck comes late in the day. Last 3 deliveries for me were around 3:30, that's early, heh. Heck my last FedEx delivery came at 8:30.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> Question on this......Ive seen 2 different reviews of this same monitor...one appears to have PWM and one did not...so is a crap shoot weather or not I get it?
> 
> Also it seems the glossy ones are getting harder to find..are they running out or something?


Running out, not making them, who knows. There are still some on ebay for $600 to $700. Go check the for sale section, there are 2 glossy for sale there.


----------



## loki993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Running out, not making them, who knows. There are still some on ebay for $600 to $700. Go check the for sale section, there are 2 glossy for sale there.


Search isn't working for me right now but if its the one Im thinking of he wants 400 a piece plus shipping for them, more than Im willing to spends on a monitor right now. For that I may just spring for the matte one.

Is the difference between the glossy and matte ones really that big?


----------



## Watagump

Another post on a different forum regarding delays in deliveries. This is from dream-seller.

Hi, We are really sorry for all the inconveniences.

I totally understand you are upset with us, I am deeply sorry for that.
Unfortunately almost half of the monitors we have received from the manufacture were defected ones,
there has been continuous back-and-forth process.
Therefore we only could ship out few monitors a day, there has been a long cue waiting for our monitors.
Your monitor will be shipped within this week according to our tech.
If you are not happy with that we will immediately cancel and refund for you.

Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us.
We will continuously improve our service for better business.

Thank you"


----------



## peppson

Got my Qnix monitor today, Really happy with it.

I cant go to 120hz tho, 110 was working for like 30 min, then i saw some artifacts (really smal). Also tried 120hz, then i got big line off green artifact.
96hz works great without issues.

im using the cable that the seller provived. Do you think ill get better results with a high quality cable?

Been reading around and seen some ppl lower their pixels or something, and then they will be able to do 120hz just fine.

Anyone more who got the same problem as me?

On the plus side, i got no dead pixels and no BLB


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> Search isn't working for me right now but if its the one Im thinking of he wants 400 a piece plus shipping for them, more than Im willing to spends on a monitor right now. For that I may just spring for the matte one.
> 
> Is the difference between the glossy and matte ones really that big?


Yes, the seller you are thinking of looks to be correct. As for the difference, true glossy can be quite a bit better for colors and can really make the blacks pop. But the others with glass, makes the blacks more grayish. Here is a link with some pictures and info on glossy, matte and even plasma coatings.

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14389-crossover-2755amg-review-2560x1440-ah-ips-panel-plasma-deposition-coating.html#post1121396


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> UPS sucks, not because I never get my items, its that my UPS truck comes late in the day. Last 3 deliveries for me were around 3:30, that's early, heh. Heck my last FedEx delivery came at 8:30.


UPS does suck, they dropped my monitor off at some random persons house because we shared the same address numbers. Lucky they were nice and called me since my number was on the package.


----------



## jjmuldoon

I'm new here but just wanted to say thanks for all the helpful information I found on this thread. I purchased a Qnix from GreenSum a couple weeks ago and I'm loving it. No dead pixels, minimal BLB and OC up 110hz.

I just purchased one of the 10bit monitors from Accessories-Whole (http://www.ebay.com/itm/131131920531). The estimated delivery date is next week. I'll make sure to post my review once it get. If the new monitor is problem free I'll probably put my current qnix up for sale on Amazon or Ebay.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Another post on a different forum regarding delays in deliveries. This is from dream-seller.
> 
> Hi, We are really sorry for all the inconveniences.
> 
> I totally understand you are upset with us, I am deeply sorry for that.
> Unfortunately almost half of the monitors we have received from the manufacture were defected ones,
> there has been continuous back-and-forth process.
> Therefore we only could ship out few monitors a day, there has been a long cue waiting for our monitors.
> Your monitor will be shipped within this week according to our tech.
> If you are not happy with that we will immediately cancel and refund for you.
> 
> Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
> We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
> Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us.
> We will continuously improve our service for better business.
> 
> Thank you"


That was me in other forum! Lolol. . Gonna keep updating this. . Dream seller seems legit ... we shall soon find out. . he told my first message that would be shipped tomorrow now he says just with this week


----------



## StonedAlex

I'm thinking about buying one of these. How long does shipping generally take from Korea to the U.S?


----------



## loki993

I though about it, guaranteed to OC, PWM free and glossy..I shot him an offer. Maybe paying a little more is better than getting into PWM lottery. We will see what he says.

still not sure if glossy will be ok for me though, right now in my room I can see reflections on my phone and TV


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> That was me in other forum! Lolol. . Gonna keep updating this. . Dream seller seems legit ... we shall soon find out. . he told my first message that would be shipped tomorrow now he says just with this week


Cool, then I wont have to update it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjmuldoon*
> 
> I'm new here but just wanted to say thanks for all the helpful information I found on this thread. I purchased a Qnix from GreenSum a couple weeks ago and I'm loving it. No dead pixels, minimal BLB and OC up 110hz.
> 
> I just purchased one of the 10bit monitors from Accessories-Whole (http://www.ebay.com/itm/131131920531). The estimated delivery date is next week. I'll make sure to post my review once it get. If the new monitor is problem free I'll probably put my current qnix up for sale on Amazon or Ebay.


welcome!
Well that makes 3 of us so far.


----------



## jjmuldoon

I did some digging and I'm fairly certain that these new panels are from a company called AUO (http://www.auo.com/?sn=149&lang=en-US&c=33&n=319) and being used in BenQ's BL2710PT monitors which are currently selling for $700 (http://shop.benq.us/monitors/pro-graphics/bl2710pt-wqhd-cad-cam-monitor.html?utm_campaign=mainsitelink&utm_source=main).

And here's a review of the BenQ monitor from TFT Central.
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/benq_bl2710pt.htm


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjmuldoon*
> 
> I did some digging and I'm fairly certain that these new panels are from a company called AUO (http://www.auo.com/?sn=149&lang=en-US&c=33&n=319) and being used in BenQ's BL2710PT monitors which are currently selling for $700 (http://www.benq.us/product/monitor/BL2710PT).
> 
> And here's a review of the BenQ monitor from TFT Central.
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/benq_bl2710pt.htm


The AUO info looks correct but that BenQ link says it has an IPS panel where this is AH-VA.. who knows. I should have mine tomorrow or Friday. I'll give a.. fair and balanced review. Just like Fox News.


----------



## jjmuldoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> The AUO info looks correct but that BenQ link says it has an IPS panel where this is AH-VA.. who knows. I should have mine tomorrow or Friday. I'll give a.. fair and balanced review. Just like Fox News.


http://shop.benq.us/monitors/pro-graphics/bl2710pt-wqhd-cad-cam-monitor.html?utm_campaign=mainsitelink&utm_source=main

Corrected the link in my original post with the one above. If you go to this link and click on the specs tab it's listed as AH-VA which is a type of IPS.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjmuldoon*
> 
> http://shop.benq.us/monitors/pro-graphics/bl2710pt-wqhd-cad-cam-monitor.html?utm_campaign=mainsitelink&utm_source=main
> 
> Corrected the link in my original post with the one above. If you go to this link and click on the specs tab it's listed as AH-VA which is a type of IPS.


Nice find! Well, I am super excited to put all these monitors to the test. Anyone have an extra room in case my wife kicks me out?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Are any of the Qnix 10bit owners capable of properly testing the amount of input lag these displays have since they have an internal scaler/other inputs and that supposedly increases it ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjmuldoon*
> 
> http://shop.benq.us/monitors/pro-graphics/bl2710pt-wqhd-cad-cam-monitor.html?utm_campaign=mainsitelink&utm_source=main
> 
> Corrected the link in my original post with the one above. If you go to this link and click on the specs tab it's listed as AH-VA which is a type of IPS.


Nice info +rep - that would be great if it's that indeed that panel.
Only thing that worries me is its real life response time. Which is a little slow for gaming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Are any of the Qnix 10bit owners capable of properly testing the amount of input lag these displays have since they have an internal scaler/other inputs and that supposedly increases it ?


There's only 3 of us in here that have ordered it, no one has it yet.
I have no idea how I would be able to test input lag.


----------



## bluedevil

Took the plunge and got the Qnix QX2710 EVO II from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUI44US/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item_image


----------



## Chowchilla

I've had my finger on that buy button all day. Must. Resist!


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> There's only 3 of us in here that have ordered it, no one has it yet.
> I have no idea how I would be able to test input lag.


This is the test I'll be running with my CRT (and TRUE10)

http://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.php?id=1229335064&subaction=showfull


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Took the plunge and got the Qnix QX2710 EVO II from Amazon.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUI44US/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item_image


I don't know why you didn't wait personally. Also you paid $350?
When you could have paid under $300 from Korea?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> I've had my finger on that buy button all day. Must. Resist!


Patience my friend








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> This is the test I'll be running with my CRT (and TRUE10)
> 
> http://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.php?id=1229335064&subaction=showfull


ah nice one bro


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> This is the test I'll be running with my CRT (and TRUE10)
> 
> http://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.php?id=1229335064&subaction=showfull


That test is useless for many reason, read about them here. Refresh Rate Multi-Tool is much better but not as good as the SMT Tool 2.0.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> That test is useless for many reason, read about them here. Refresh Rate Multi-Tool is much better but not as good as the SMT Tool 2.0.


I appreciate any help or advice. I'll take a look -- Thanks!









Too bad you can't even buy SMT Tool 2.0 any more..


----------



## jameyscott

@digitalforce

bring your monitors and you can sleep on my couch.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> @digitalforce
> 
> bring your monitors and you can sleep on my couch.


LOL! I might have to. My wife should win "Wife of the Century" !

I've tested over $8,000 worth of video cards and monitors in the past six months...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> LOL! I might have to. My wife should win "Wife of the Century" !
> 
> I've tested over $8,000 worth of video cards and monitors in the past six months...


again, too much money!


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Too bad you can't even buy SMT Tool 2.0 any more..


I bought a commercial license last month (50 Euro), try emailing Mr. Thiemann.


----------



## jameyscott

I know the feeling. I don't know how my wife hasn't murdered me yet. She did give me a menacing look when I told her that the monitor I just bought has a new model that I want.

can't wait to hear your results so I can buy the 10bit panel, too.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I can't wait to hear your results so I can buy the 10bit panel, too.


AMD Firepro or Nvidia Quaddro cards are required to send & receive and 10 bit signals and very few programs support 10 bit signals. It's likely an 8 bit+FRC panel like the BenQ BL2710PT which offers zero advantages over a regular 8 bit panel.


----------



## Watagump

Ohhhhhhhhhhh, things could get interesting. A little birdy told me someone ordered a true glossy x-star from dream-seller. It isn't a $600 one, so maybe we can get a final answer about glossy.


----------



## jameyscott

Kill my hopes and dreams.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I don't know why you didn't wait personally. Also you paid $350?
> When you could have paid under $300 from Korea?
> Patience my friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ah nice one bro


I had gotten work promos that got me Amazon gift cards. Cost me $23.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I had gotten work promos that got me Amazon gift cards. Cost me $23.


Oh happy days


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Ohhhhhhhhhhh, things could get interesting. A little birdy told me someone ordered a true glossy x-star from dream-seller. It isn't a $600 one, so maybe we can get a final answer about glossy.


I got a "glossy" Qnix off Amazon for $359 shipped. It's absolutely gorgeous and no BLB and no dead pixels. The strange thing is, it doesn't look anything like tempered glass from pics I've seen and it seems a tad more reflective than most glossy panels. I can't tell one way or another. The blacks DO NOT look gray so I don't think it's tempered glass....

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394664412&sr=8-1&keywords=glossy+qnix


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I got a "glossy" Qnix off Amazon for $359 shipped. It's absolutely gorgeous and no BLB and no dead pixels. The strange thing is, it doesn't look anything like tempered glass from pics I've seen and it seems a tad more reflective than most glossy panels. I can't tell one way or another. The blacks DO NOT look gray so I don't think it's tempered glass....
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394664412&sr=8-1&keywords=glossy+qnix


I thought that was you that bought the Amazon one. We talked about it before, cause the same seller also sells tempered glass. You should post some pics of the screen, would love to compare it to other images I have seen.


----------



## tattashot

Is the burn in on these monitors temporary? I've had mine overclocked for about 4 hours now and the after image of my web browser seems to be burned into the top of the screen. Anybody else have similar issues?


----------



## Watagump

Here are some side by side images of different screens.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2823/10336991673_356b076e1e_o.png


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> I've had my finger on that buy button all day. Must. Resist!


there is currently a price war between the sellers going on, me thinks. it started when accessorieswhole's sale ended, then dream-seller increased the price of his monitors by $30, and then a couple of hours after by another $10. now other sellers followed and have increased their prices as well.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here are some side by side images of different screens.
> 
> http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2823/10336991673_356b076e1e_o.png


Mine looks like the glossy. Although I'd love to see a matte, glossy and tempered glass Qnix side by side. My Yamakasi Catleap is a little less reflective than my glossy Qnix.


----------



## iCrap

is that qnix in the middle the one that sells for $700? That's the one i have that i payed $300 for several months ago. I still don't understand this price rise.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> there is currently a price war between the sellers going on, me thinks. it started when accessorieswhole's sale ended, then dream-seller increased the price of his monitors by $30, and then a couple of hours after by another $10. now other sellers followed and have increased their prices as well.


seems to just be the regular Qnix. The TRUE10 prices seem static.

Funny price war if they're hiking prices..


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> is that qnix in the middle the one that sells for $700? That's the one i have that i payed $300 for several months ago. I still don't understand this price rise.


Yes, word has it that the glossy were a limited quantity run and they had too many reports of scratches and faulty glossy displays so they only manufacture the matte and tempered glass versions now.

I tried to talk to green-sum about getting a TRUE glossy and he offered me it for $380 but the broken English was so bad, I can't tell if it was a true glossy or tempered glass.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> is that qnix in the middle the one that sells for $700? That's the one i have that i payed $300 for several months ago. I still don't understand this price rise.


It might be, the stand looks like it has height adjustment etc, which the cheap ones do not.


----------



## Chowchilla

Lots of TRUE10 sellers popping up. 4 more in the last few hours.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Mine looks like the glossy. Although I'd love to see a matte, glossy and tempered glass Qnix side by side. My Yamakasi Catleap is a little less reflective than my glossy Qnix.


The image Gump posted is mine. The BenQ uses a semi-glossy coating, as does the matte Qnix QX2710

Left Glass (Samsung S27B970D) vs. Right Semi-Glossy (NEC P242W)


Actual image

Left Glass (Samsung S27B970D) vs. Right Glossy (Crossover 2720MDP)


The blue bar on the bottom is the windows task bar.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The image Gump posted is mine. The BenQ uses a semi-glossy coating, as does the matte Qnix QX2710
> 
> Left Glass vs. Right Semi-Glossy
> 
> 
> Left Glass vs. Right Glossy
> 
> 
> The blue bar on the bottom is the windows task bar.


NCX, is that you?


----------



## iCrap

Well damn, now i wish i had just bought 3 at once... checked the invoice just now. I payed only $270 shipped for glossy, overclockable monitor.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Lots of TRUE10 sellers popping up. 4 more in the last few hours.


this is most interesting.
So my "theory" of it being a "new" (by new I mean an A- stock to these distributors) panel being made available, can't be far from the truth now.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The image Gump posted is mine. The BenQ uses a semi-glossy coating, as does the matte Qnix QX2710
> 
> Left Glass (Samsung S27B970D) vs. Right Semi-Glossy (NEC P242W)
> 
> 
> Actual image
> 
> Left Glass (Samsung S27B970D) vs. Right Glossy (Crossover 2720MDP)
> 
> 
> The blue bar on the bottom is the windows task bar.


On the glass, the glass covers the entire front of the monitor. My Qnix doesn't like that at all.. I will take pics this weekend of all my monitors side by side...


----------



## loki993

One last question..I have a 2 gig GTX 770 am I going to have any trouble pushing one of these?


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> One last question..I have a 2 gig GTX 770 am I going to have any trouble pushing one of these?


Thats what I have and it works just fine. BF4 Plays great mostly Ultra. I will be getting another 770 in the next few days though. Cause you know... why not... lol


----------



## loki993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Thats what I have and it works just fine. BF4 Plays great mostly Ultra. I will be getting another 770 in the next few days though. Cause you know... why not... lol


lol, yeah its only another 350 lol. Thats good though BF4 is what Ill be playing mostly too.


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> lol, yeah its only another 350 lol. Thats good though BF4 is what Ill be playing mostly too.


Oh ya, I overclock to 120hz and play at about 90 frames. You will never go back to a 60hz monitor!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> One last question..I have a 2 gig GTX 770 am I going to have any trouble pushing one of these?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Thats what I have and it works just fine. BF4 Plays great mostly Ultra. I will be getting another 770 in the next few days though. Cause you know... why not... lol


I got two GTX680s (6 months apart) for....£345







!


----------



## digitalforce

I tried a GTX 690 and liked it a lot (Got it for $600!) but I run a lot of betas and alpha stress tests. I HATE waiting for SLI profiles. So, I went 780 Ti GHz and haven't looked back









I love the 770. The MSI OC version is amazing just as single card!

*PRO TIP for BF4:*

Turn off MSAA and use LOW on post processing AA. LOOKS amazing. RUNS like a champ.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I got a "glossy" Qnix off Amazon for $359 shipped. It's absolutely gorgeous and no BLB and no dead pixels. The strange thing is, it doesn't look anything like tempered glass from pics I've seen and it seems a tad more reflective than most glossy panels. I can't tell one way or another. The blacks DO NOT look gray so I don't think it's tempered glass....
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394664412&sr=8-1&keywords=glossy+qnix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Mine looks like the glossy. Although I'd love to see a matte, glossy and tempered glass Qnix side by side. My Yamakasi Catleap is a little less reflective than my glossy Qnix.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Yes, word has it that the glossy were a limited quantity run and they had too many reports of scratches and faulty glossy displays so they only manufacture the matte and tempered glass versions now.
> 
> I tried to talk to green-sum about getting a TRUE glossy and he offered me it for $380 but the broken English was so bad, I can't tell if it was a true glossy or tempered glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> On the glass, the glass covers the entire front of the monitor. My Qnix doesn't like that at all.. I will take pics this weekend of all my monitors side by side...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Hey Digital now I'm confused ...I thought you said you purchased from Amazon $359 *[HERE]* a QNIX QX2710 *true glossy* panel like the one in the middle of iCraps referenced 3 monitor comparison picture below that is $700?

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2823/10336991673_356b076e1e_o.png

Do you Now not think your $350 panel is the same as the $700 panel???

Can't wait for your _"Fair and Balanced"_ review this weekend







...
But if your baggin on Fox and your from the "If you like your Plan, YOU CAN KEEP IT" camp







...
Then how do we read the truth??? ...
HeeHee







this is all in fun/jest, I know how defensive/sensitive liberals/progressives can be








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> is that qnix in the middle the one that sells for $700? That's the one i have that i payed $300 for several months ago. I still don't understand this price rise.


----------



## jourelemode

is it really this simple or am I missing something? I've set my refresh rate through nvidia... fyi gtx 770 gpu


----------



## Jestin

4 of us lol... Iv'e had my True 10 since Monday.

It has perfect pixels, very slight BLB but normal and completely fine, maybe more like normal panel glow? Has available stock 120Hz setting @ 1080. Went for 120Hz @ 2560x1440...and got it with the overclocking info on original post here. I am no expert.
Screen looks great! No problems with colors or brightness, so no special profiles needed. I am only gaming at 120Hz, and revert back to 60Hz when not, in order to have a lower idle on my video card (7950) ...I might have something setup wrong in CRU? Or driver/patch issue. I believe the hardware of the monitor is not at fault. I have not messed with the 4k stuff.

So yeah, I'm happy!

Bought from Accessories-Whole. The first 1 they sold from the listing I bought from http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-Matte-27-2560x1440-10bit-Monitor-/131131920531?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160


----------



## Watagump

So is it safe to say that the info I read about the multiple input monitors not overclocking is false?


----------



## MenacingTuba

All of the multi-input monitors tested which have accepted higher hz drop all of the additional frames when set above 60hz. Blur Busters Test can be used to check for frame skipping. Motion looks choppy (Blur Busters ghosting Test) on mult-input displays when overclocked.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> All of the multi-input monitors tested which have accepted higher hz drop all of the additional frames when set above 60hz. Blur Busters Test can be used to check for frame skipping. Motion looks choppy (Blur Busters ghosting Test) on mult-input displays when overclocked.


Thats another thing I was wondering from the sellers saying these new True monitors can overclock, do they even bother to check the frame skipping.


----------



## jjmuldoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> 4 of us lol... Iv'e had my True 10 since Monday.
> 
> It has perfect pixels, very slight BLB but normal and completely fine, maybe more like normal panel glow? Has available stock 120Hz setting @ 1080. Went for 120Hz @ 2560x1440...and got it with the overclocking info on original post here. I am no expert.
> Screen looks great! No problems with colors or brightness, so no special profiles needed. I am only gaming at 120Hz, and revert back to 60Hz when not, in order to have a lower idle on my video card (7950) ...I might have something setup wrong in CRU? Or driver/patch issue. I believe the hardware of the monitor is not at fault. I have not messed with the 4k stuff.
> 
> So yeah, I'm happy!
> 
> Bought from Accessories-Whole. The first 1 they sold from the listing I bought from http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-Matte-27-2560x1440-10bit-Monitor-/131131920531?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160


Can you adjust settings using the buttons on this monitor? Any difference cosmetically between this one and the regular qnix? Please post a picture.


----------



## Jestin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjmuldoon*
> 
> Can you adjust settings using the buttons on this monitor? Any difference cosmetically between this one and the regular qnix? Please post a picture.


Yes there is an OSD and buttons work fine. Cosmetics should be the same. Stand is garbage but decent construction as in no panel play.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hey Digital now I'm confused ...I thought you said you purchased from Amazon $359 *[HERE]* a QNIX QX2710 *true glossy* panel like the one in the middle of iCraps referenced 3 monitor comparison picture below that is $700?
> 
> Do you Now not think your $350 panel is the same as the $700 panel???
> 
> Can't wait for your _"fair and balanced"_ review this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but if your baggin on Fox and your from the "If you like your Plan, YOU CAN KEEP IT" camp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... then how do we read the truth??? ... HeeHee this is all in fun/jest, I know how defensive/sensitive liberals/progressives can be


TomcatV,

I am not sure. I don't think mine is tempered glass because it isn't THAT reflective and it doesn't cover the whole front. But. it's a tad bit more reflective than my Yamakasi Catleap glossy..

Either way, my current Qnix "glossy" is gorgeous. No BLB and no dead pixels. Also, blacks are pretty deep and colors are gorgeous.


----------



## karkee

Can anyone recommend me a really sturdy stand for the qnix? I saw one being recommended but it had huge feet









Atm I couldnt be happier with my qnix but the stand is just god damn awful and the monitor sits a little to the left side down like / and its really annoying.

Or I need to buy a monitor arm instead but I would rather buy a new stand.

Greetz


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Ohhhhhhhhhhh, things could get interesting. A little birdy told me someone ordered a true glossy x-star from dream-seller. It isn't a $600 one, so maybe we can get a final answer about glossy.


Is this possible to be a real glossy one too?
Because it is pretty cheap









http://www.accessorieswhole.com/qx2710-led-evolution-ll-glossy-27-2560x1440-samsung-pls-27in-pc-monitor.html


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> Can anyone recommend me a really sturdy stand for the qnix?


I have this Planar stand, the base is small, it is made with very high quality materials and does not slide up/down on its own when the heaviest monitors like my 2755AMG (it's probably twice as heavy as the Qnix and my other stand could not support it without sliding down) are mounted to it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> Yes there is an OSD and buttons work fine. Cosmetics should be the same. Stand is garbage but decent construction as in no panel play.


great to hear you got one too!
Few burning questions: 120hz works fine then? Did you do tests on the ufo site to check for dropped frames?
Does it actually have 10bit and multiple inputs?
Does an Xbox or ps3 now work?


----------



## karkee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> I have this Planar stand, the base is small, it is made with very high quality materials and does not slide up/down on its own when the heaviest monitors like my 2755AMG (it's probably twice as heavy as the Qnix and my other stand could not support it without sliding down) are mounted to it.


Thank you that one looks nice, are you happy with it no flaws with the monitor attached?

Problem is that one is only avail in USA it seems


----------



## Optimus1978

So; another day goes by an no despatch from Dream-Seller, even though I was promised by 6pm Korean time .

I'm thinking I cancel it, and order a true 10 from ExcellentCastle?

Any thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> So; another day goes by an no despatch from Dream-Seller, even though I was promised by 6pm Korean time .
> 
> I'm thinking I cancel it, and order a true 10 from ExcellentCastle?
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'd go adead and cancel. If the TRUE10 turns out to be a real winner you'll be kicking yourself. I too am planning to order a TRUE10 from castle this weekend pending reviews.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Mine should be here next week. Just got shipping information by red cap







! Communication has been prefect with them for me. Believe it or not other sellers still haven't gotten back to me


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Mine should be here next week. Just got shipping information by red cap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! Communication has been prefect with them for me. Believe it or not other sellers still haven't gotten back to me


Fantastic. Let me know how it goes.

He's one thing I've often wondered. What's the difference if you buy something not in your own currency?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> So; another day goes by an no despatch from Dream-Seller, even though I was promised by 6pm Korean time .
> 
> I'm thinking I cancel it, and order a true 10 from ExcellentCastle?
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My tracking changed to "Initiated" today, with an expected ship date of Friday (ordered Saturday) so it looks like they are getting ready to ship some. If you want to cancel, you might want to do it soon - I was wondering what to do myself, but now I guess I'll wait and see what I get.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Fantastic. Let me know how it goes.
> 
> He's one thing I've often wondered. What's the difference if you buy something not in your own currency?


paypal sorts that out - you pay like an extra quid or two for the conversion.
So my monitor, although converted in GBP from USD in google came out to a cheaper amount - the one shown in paypal was a few quid higher.


----------



## bluedevil

My 2710 is showing a shipment window of April 7th - April 25th. I bet I get it early next week.









In other news, I am getting another $200 in Amazon GC from work. Time to start looking for a new R9 290!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> My 2710 is showing a shipment window of April 7th - April 25th. I bet I get it early next week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news, I am getting another $200 in Amazon GC from work. Time to start looking for a new R9 290!


ha nice!


----------



## killer0014

Just ordered this one :
http://www.ebay.nl/itm/221390816061

PERFECT PIXELS QNIX QX2710 Evolutionll DP Multi TRUE10 27" Virtual 4K Monitor


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killer0014*
> 
> Just ordered this one :
> http://www.ebay.nl/itm/221390816061
> 
> PERFECT PIXELS QNIX QX2710 Evolutionll DP Multi TRUE10 27" Virtual 4K Monitor


Great. Let us know how it goes.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killer0014*
> 
> Just ordered this one :
> http://www.ebay.nl/itm/221390816061
> 
> PERFECT PIXELS QNIX QX2710 Evolutionll DP Multi TRUE10 27" Virtual 4K Monitor


ooooh so we have 5 buyers of the true 10 model now! You and I are the only ones that bought from red cap so far


----------



## activ228

i ordered this monitor:http://www.ebay.com/itm/271375013937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 roughly 3 days ago, ebay says estimated shipping is mar 17 - mar 28 but the seller hasnt notified me that he shipped and there is no tracking number listed. im just wondering if this is all normal or if i should contact seller. sorry if its a dumb question. thanks for the help


----------



## killer0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *activ228*
> 
> i ordered this monitor:http://www.ebay.com/itm/271375013937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 roughly 3 days ago, ebay says estimated shipping is mar 17 - mar 28 but the seller hasnt notified me that he shipped and there is no tracking number listed. im just wondering if this is all normal or if i should contact seller. sorry if its a dumb question. thanks for the help


Just contact him! the fastes way to find out!


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Fantastic. Let me know how it goes.
> 
> He's one thing I've often wondered. What's the difference if you buy something not in your own currency?


If you have a card associated with your PayPal account, you can also specify that the payment is made in the local currency. That way your bank will make the conversion rather than PayPal. I think it's often cheaper to do it that way as PayPal's conversion rates aren't the best, you would need to check what your bank charges though


----------



## brialee8

Dream-seller responds to me with this after I inquire about my shipping:

Hi thank you for the message.

I totally understand you are upset with us, I am deeply sorry for that.
Recently almost half of the monitors we have received from the manufacture were defected ones, there has been continuous back-and-forth process.
Therefore we only could ship out few monitors a day, there has been a long cue waiting for our monitors.

Your monitor will be shipped within next week, we beg for your understanding.

Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us. We will continuously improve our service for better business.

Thank you
Regards

20 minutes later, I get a notification that my item has shipped with a Tracking number?

What the...? I shouldn't expect to ship until next week right?


----------



## iCrap

So what's the deal with this true10 thing? it can display 4k res? Has anybody got theirs yet?


----------



## goodenough88

Can someone give me a quick update on which panel (Yamakasi/Qnix/X-Star) has the best reliability & build quality and which eBay seller has the best repuation, in case of any issues.

Possibly looking at buying one in the next month


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> Dream-seller responds to me with this after I inquire about my shipping:
> 
> Hi thank you for the message.
> 
> I totally understand you are upset with us, I am deeply sorry for that.
> Recently almost half of the monitors we have received from the manufacture were defected ones, there has been continuous back-and-forth process.
> Therefore we only could ship out few monitors a day, there has been a long cue waiting for our monitors.
> 
> Your monitor will be shipped within next week, we beg for your understanding.
> 
> Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
> We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
> Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us. We will continuously improve our service for better business.
> 
> Thank you
> Regards
> 
> 20 minutes later, I get a notification that my item has shipped with a Tracking number?
> 
> What the...? I shouldn't expect to ship until next week right?


and this is what he told me when i was trying to bargain with him
==========
Hi. Thank you for the message.

I know it seems simple, but it is more complicated than you think because it is not just about money.
Here is one suggestion, I am guessing the reason for the sudden price increasing is because the manufacture is not getting enough panels from Samsung.

Because of that we also can't receive enough monitors, having huge problems with customer satisfaction.
Now i think you can guess there might be chance they reduce the price back when the panel supply becomes normal.

This is all I can tell you, hope you would understand this.

Thank you
Regards
==========

so are they having low-quality panels delivered to them or are they low on monitors or both? it seems like he (and, maybe, other sellers) has been selling monitors that he didn't even have in stock...pretty shady!


----------



## Naxxy

My Qnix bought from ta-korea.global finally arrived in Italy!!!

Left Italian customs this morning i hope i will get it in a day or two.....cant wait lol


----------



## digitalforce

Ohhhhh snap!!









Looks like both of my monitors are:

**On Vehicle for Delivery Today**


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> Dream-seller responds to me with this after I inquire about my shipping:
> 
> Hi thank you for the message.
> 
> I totally understand you are upset with us, I am deeply sorry for that.
> Recently almost half of the monitors we have received from the manufacture were defected ones, there has been continuous back-and-forth process.
> Therefore we only could ship out few monitors a day, there has been a long cue waiting for our monitors.
> 
> Your monitor will be shipped within next week, we beg for your understanding.
> 
> Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
> We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
> Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us. We will continuously improve our service for better business.
> 
> Thank you
> Regards
> 
> 20 minutes later, I get a notification that my item has shipped with a Tracking number?
> 
> What the...? I shouldn't expect to ship until next week right?


Interesting. He sent me the same message with a couple of differences. He says mine will be shipped within a day. And says there is a short cue... strange... my tracking number says Friday anticipated ship date and Wednesday delivery date..we shall see... here's the message.
Hi thank you for the message.

I totally understand you are upset with us, I am deeply sorry for that.
Recently almost half of the monitors we have received from the manufacture were defected ones, there has been continuous back-and-forth process.
Therefore we only could ship out few monitors a day, there has been a short cue waiting for our monitors.

Your monitor will be shipped within a day, we beg for your understanding.

Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us. We will continuously improve our service for better business.

Thank you

P.s. I put my order in Sunday . I believe he is going in order.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

I want a glossy panel so bad right now, but I know I'd regret it due to the window in my entertainment room.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Ohhhhh snap!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like both of my monitors are:
> 
> **On Vehicle for Delivery Today**


So, like, what's your address ?

You know... for science and stuff....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Ohhhhh snap!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like both of my monitors are:
> 
> **On Vehicle for Delivery Today**


do they have some sort of jet between Korea and the states!?


----------



## Jestin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> great to hear you got one too!
> Few burning questions: 120hz works fine then? Did you do tests on the ufo site to check for dropped frames?
> Does it actually have 10bit and multiple inputs?
> Does an Xbox or ps3 now work?


120hz works fine. I have not tested if it is dropping frames as mentioned above. I used the ufo site http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&photo=quebec.jpg&pps=960&pursuit=0&height=0 with fraps running and fraps says 120 framerate says 120 and refresh rate says 120. Also, all is well at this site too http://frames-per-second.appspot.com/
I'm definitely no expert just stating what I've checked.

Not sure how to check for 10 bit sorry. Am I using DVI, I have not checked the other inputs yet. I'm sure Xbox or PS3 will work but i don't own either as I left console gaming a long time ago


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> do they have some sort of jet between Korea and the states!?


I don't know but that was FAST. I ordered those two monitors on Tuesday and bam, two days later for delivery. Granted, Overlord is just in California.

Either way, I MAY be able to post some TRUE10 impressions and tests tonight.


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Ohhhhh snap!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like both of my monitors are:
> 
> **On Vehicle for Delivery Today**


Looking forward reading your review


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> My Qnix bought from ta-korea.global finally arrived in Italy!!!
> 
> Left Italian customs this morning i hope i will get it in a day or two.....cant wait lol


Very nice, I bought a PP one at the start of the week from the same seller for $325 (have not received tracking info yet) and noticed a day after I bought mine, he raised it by $20. I wish I could have waited till the results on the 10bit ones came in but the problems with my current monitor are becoming unbearable. My monoprice cables should be arriving tomorrow


----------



## g4b1bb097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> My Qnix bought from ta-korea.global finally arrived in Italy!!!
> 
> Left Italian customs this morning i hope i will get it in a day or two.....cant wait lol


Mine, from the same seller is stuck at INCHEON


----------



## Derpinheimer

So this True10 looks really nice, but wont the multi input mean it has a scalar and therefore tons of input lag?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I don't know but that was FAST. I ordered those two monitors on Tuesday and bam, two days later for delivery. Granted, Overlord is just in California.
> 
> Either way, I MAY be able to post some TRUE10 impressions and tests tonight.


you mother.....I love you. No **** haha


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g4b1bb097*
> 
> Mine, from the same seller is stuck at INCHEON


No no its not like that if you use the tracking option be sure to click the button "Track with Options" and then select your country. Be aware that you wont get anymore updates on from the Korean side....i thought myne was stuck at INCHEON aerport for ever but it wasnt correct thats only the last step on the Korean side.

Be also aware the you might not see any info from your country postal service yet, it took about 10 days for the italian postal service to update tracking info.

And last the delivery service the seller uses is pretty slow consider that i payed for the monitor the 25th of February and it has not arrived yet. He does warn it will take up to 20/25 business days


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Very nice, I bought a PP one at the start of the week from the same seller for $325 (have not received tracking info yet) and noticed a day after I bought mine, he raised it by $20. I wish I could have waited till the results on the 10bit ones came in but the problems with my current monitor are becoming unbearable. My monoprice cables should be arriving tomorrow


I got my perfect pixel for 231€ (aprox 321 US$) that paypal made out to magically become 240 due to exchange rate.....







Best price i could find for a guaranteed 0 dead pixel one.

Haven't bought any extra cable yet wanna try the stock one and i have a few extra DVI cables around to test out too, if they don't work out right ill get a premium gold plated DVI cable


----------



## g4b1bb097

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> No no its not like that if you use the tracking option be sure to click the button "Track with Options" and then select your country. Be aware that you wont get anymore updates on from the Korean side....i thought myne was stuck at INCHEON aerport for ever but it wasnt correct thats only the last step on the Korean side.


Oh thanks a lot! You saved my day, i'm also from Italy, i'm hoping to not have to pay a lot of customs fees


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I don't know but that was FAST. I ordered those two monitors on Tuesday and bam, two days later for delivery. Granted, Overlord is just in California.
> 
> Either way, I MAY be able to post some TRUE10 impressions and tests tonight.


Please do if possible. I'm having dreams about that bloody monitor


----------



## Optimus1978

Just sent a cancellation email to dream-seller to cancel - let's see what happens

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I think my monitor might arrive before my damn graphics card will...
I'm super disappointed that my 2nd GPU hasn't arrived yet - No idea who to blame, UPS or the seller. (UPS came today at the property, but not for me)


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Just sent a cancellation email to dream-seller to cancel - let's see what happens
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did you cancel be a use of ddelays? I ordered mine Sunday and it's being shipped tomorrow. We'll see, that's what I was tols. If it ships Friday and arrives Wednesday in perfect condition I won't be mad.

The fact he is admitting a huge batch of bad panels makes me thing I'll get a good one. If I get a bad one a figure he will be quick to replace it... Considering he admitted guilt.


----------



## Optimus1978

I've cancelled as it keeps been promised to be sent - and never has.

It's been ordered over a week , and I keep getting messages or it will be shipped tomorrow and then tomorrow comes and goes but not dispatched. I was told it would be shipped by 6pm yesterday (korean time) and it hasn't.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> I've cancelled as it keeps been promised to be sent - and never has.
> 
> It's been ordered over a week , and I keep getting messages or it will be shipped tomorrow and then tomorrow comes and goes but not dispatched. I was told it would be shipped by 6pm yesterday (korean time) and it hasn't.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Seems that's what most people who ordered from dream seller are dealing with. I'm gonna try to stick it out. If it's not shipped Friday as promised (by FedEx tracking) then I'm going to ask for refund.

I'm giving him the credit of admitting a huge shipment of bad quality monitors. He could have shipped out the bad ones but ddecided not to, I can respect that somewhat

Did you have a tracking number with anticipated ship date?


----------



## Optimus1978

Yeah credit for not posting the bad ones - but strange how he seems to be the only one suffering.

Also, an email to say it's been delayed wouldn't go a miss with some sort of explanation - but promising to dispatch and then not without explanation is just a bit frustrating

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Optimus1978

And sorry, no never had a tracking number

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Yeah credit for not posting the bad ones - but strange how he seems to be the only one suffering.
> 
> Also, an email to say it's been delayed wouldn't go a miss with some sort of explanation - but promising to dispatch and then not without explanation is just a bit frustrating
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


He gave me a tracking number and didn't update until last night. Said could not be found for fee days. Now says initiated and will ship friday.

I don't follow korean monitor sellers but he was having a great sale at 279$ and sold 500-1000 in a week or so.. so I imagine it has to do with quality issues and the sheer amount of volume he picked up because of that sale.

279 monitor is now 319$


----------



## SeanEboy

Something is definitely going on over there.. I tried to place a bulk order, and seller: excellent castle told me that they are 'disappearing', which basically translates into the fact that the stock on the bunk monitors is drying up.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> And sorry, no never had a tracking number
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Something is definitely going on over there.. I tried to place a bulk order, and seller: excellent castle told me that they are 'disappearing', which basically translates into the fact that the stock on the bunk monitors is drying up.


How many did you try to bulk order?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Something is definitely going on over there.. I tried to place a bulk order, and seller: excellent castle told me that they are 'disappearing', which basically translates into the fact that the stock on the bunk monitors is drying up.


disappearing?
You mean lost in post? Or all being sold? Or not ever being sold again / discontinued?


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Something is definitely going on over there.. I tried to place a bulk order, and seller: excellent castle told me that they are 'disappearing', which basically translates into the fact that the stock on the bunk monitors is drying up.


Nvm double post.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> How many did you try to bulk order?


50.. I wanted to basically do my own group buy, and sell them out of my warehouse here in NY.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> disappearing?
> You mean lost in post? Or all being sold? Or not ever being sold again / discontinued?


No, I mean discontinued.. They said all they have is Monex right now.. So, I have a feeling that the supply of these panels is running thin...

Especially considering all the other issues that people are having with other sellers...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> 120hz works fine. I have not tested if it is dropping frames as mentioned above. I used the ufo site http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&photo=quebec.jpg&pps=960&pursuit=0&height=0 with fraps running and fraps says 120 framerate says 120 and refresh rate says 120. Also, all is well at this site too http://frames-per-second.appspot.com/
> I'm definitely no expert just stating what I've checked.
> 
> Not sure how to check for 10 bit sorry. Am I using DVI, I have not checked the other inputs yet. I'm sure Xbox or PS3 will work but i don't own either as I left console gaming a long time ago


Try this:
http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

See if it says 120 - 120.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> 50.. I wanted to basically do my own group buy, and sell them out of my warehouse here in NY.
> No, I mean discontinued.. They said all they have is Monex right now.. So, I have a feeling that the supply of these panels is running thin...
> 
> Especially considering all the other issues that people are having with other sellers...


Maybe they are being phased for the 10bit variant?


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Try this:
> http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping
> 
> See if it says 120 - 120.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe they are being phased for the 10bit variant?


I think something like that is happening... So what, will the 10bit be superior?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> I think something like that is happening... So what, will the 10bit be superior?


I hope they don't have more input lag if the others are going to be discontinued.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I don't they don't have more input lag if the others are going to be discontinued.


Edit? ;c)


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Edit? ;c)


I temporarily forgot how to 'English'.


----------



## SeanEboy

Haha yeah... Because it really could've went either way there.. Thanks for clarifying.. ;c)


----------



## Watagump

The real concern should be if these new ones actually overclock and pass the skipping test. If they don't, its going to hurt sales badly IMHO, people on these types of forums buy these to overclock. Offering more inputs yet taking way a deciding factor for buying one is a bad move.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The real concern should be if these new ones actually overclock and pass the skipping test. If they don't, its going to hurt sales badly IMHO, people on these types of forums buy these to overclock. Offering more inputs yet taking way a deciding factor for buying one is a bad move.


Yeah, that basically is my concern... It would've been pretty baws to buy up (50) of them, only to have them discontinued, and their value increase... ;c)


----------



## Watagump

Can someone measure how far the bottom of the screen on the Qnix sits up from their desk or monitor stand? I have always had monitors with height adjustments, since my center channel speaker sits under my screen.


----------



## Jestin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Try this:
> http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping
> 
> See if it says 120 - 120.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Try this:
> http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping
> 
> See if it says 120 - 120.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Says 120 but went ahead and lowered ISO on my phone camera to run test and appears to be frame skipping. So the overclock is doing nothing for me and useless?
Click to expand...


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Can someone measure how far the bottom of the screen on the Qnix sits up from their desk or monitor stand? I have always had monitors with height adjustments, since my center channel speaker sits under my screen.


You're gonna have a bad time... Trust me on that.. You'll need a third party stand.. I'm not home otherwise I'd measure.. But, I bought this stand, excellent quality, and have yet to install it:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JG9RQ2/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## tehsprayer

There is a piece of lint behind the screen is there any way to get it out? It's no big deal, but if its easy to get red of or out to the corner more then why not try.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> Says 120 but went ahead and lowered ISO on my phone camera to run test and appears to be frame skipping. So the overclock is doing nothing for me and useless?


the test should really determine it - if it is frame skipping it would tell you say:
120 - 110

In my case mine is OCed to 70hz and displays 70hz :


A camera phone, of all cameras is definitely not a way of judging a monitor's ability to display frames

EDIT:
That's no indication of skipping frames though.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> You're gonna have a bad time... Trust me on that.. You'll need a third party stand.. I'm not home otherwise I'd measure.. But, I bought this stand, excellent quality, and have yet to install it:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JG9RQ2/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I thought it might be short based on the pictures, the center channel needs 4 1/2 inches. Already thought I might have to buy a stand. The other option would be place it in front, as long as it didnt go high enough to block part of the screen I would be okay. Then deciding if I really want to buy a monitor, my Asus is going back.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Can someone measure how far the bottom of the screen on the Qnix sits up from their desk or monitor stand? I have always had monitors with height adjustments, since my center channel speaker sits under my screen.


I used to have a centre speaker under my monitor, then behind it, now I have it above me.


----------



## Jestin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> the test should really determine it - if it is frame skipping it would tell you say:
> 120 - 110
> 
> In my case mine is OCed to 70hz and displays 70hz without skipping frames:
> 
> 
> A camera phone, of all cameras is definitely not a way of judging a monitor's ability to display frames


Says 120-120 but all i have is camera phone (phail). I'm sorry, I guess 1 of the other members that ordered will have to report on it then.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> Says 120-120 but all i have is camera phone (phail). I'm sorry, I guess 1 of the other members that ordered will have to report on it then.


+rep for trying - here's what I did - took it with ISO 100 on my Camera (Sony HX9V):


Here's a one taken with ISO100 on my Samsung Galaxy S3 (camera phone):


Does yours look anything like the above two pics?
(please say it does lol)

If not - what about at 60hz and/or 96hz?

EDIT:
Also do you have two monitors hooked up when testing?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1446560/qnix-qx2710-dropping-frames-in-dual-monitor-mode


----------



## Jestin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> +rep for trying - here's what I did - took it with ISO 100 on my Camera (Sony HX9V):
> 
> 
> Here's a one taken with ISO100 on my Samsung Galaxy S3 (camera phone):
> 
> 
> Does yours look anything like the above two pics?
> (please say it does lol)
> 
> If not - what about at 60hz and/or 96hz?


Tried @ 60 and no frame skipping. Tried 75-96 still drops frames. Not looking good. ISO set 100 on Note 2 phone camera.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> Tried @ 60 and no frame skipping. Tried 75-96 still drops frames. Not looking good. ISO set 100 on Note 2 phone camera.


If that's the case I'll be very disappointed


----------



## Jestin

EDIT:
Also do you have two monitors hooked up when testing?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1446560/qnix-qx2710-dropping-frames-in-dual-monitor-mode
Edited by Totally Dubbed - Today at 12:15 pm

Yeah 2 monitors. Side monitor is fed through on board graphics


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> EDIT:
> Also do you have two monitors hooked up when testing?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1446560/qnix-qx2710-dropping-frames-in-dual-monitor-mode
> Edited by Totally Dubbed - Today at 12:15 pm
> 
> Yeah 2 monitors. Side monitor is fed through on board graphics


ah ha!
Then disconnect one - and then try again.


----------



## Jestin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ah ha!
> Then disconnect one - and then try again.


120 skips on one monitor. I got a real good spread at 96 of 7 boxes but 2nd and 5th box not gray so dropped 2 0f 7 frames.


----------



## digitalforce

Holy mother this thread is tough to keep up on! I am at the airport getting ready to head home. Hopefully in time to get the monitors but my boy passed out at school and is in the hospital with his mother. REAL LIFE SUCKS.

Family > Monitors

I'll keep everyone updated.

PS -- I just got my copy of SMTT 2.0 to test input lag. I have my trusty CRT ready to go as well


----------



## Jestin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Holy mother this thread is tough to keep up on! I am at the airport getting ready to head home. Hopefully in time to get the monitors but my boy passed out at school and in the hospital with his mother. REAL LIFE SUCKS.
> 
> Family > Monitors
> 
> I'll keep everyone updated.
> 
> PS -- I just got my copy of SMTT 2.0 to test input lag. I have my trusty CRT ready to go as well


Can't wait for real results because I hope I'm doing something wrong! lol


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> Can't wait for real results because I hope I'm doing something wrong! lol


No worries mate. I'll do my best.

Steam is totally down. Boring airport + Steam down = kill me now

/first world problems


----------



## jameyscott

Sorry to hear about your son. :\ I saw steam was down as well. "luckily" I'm stuck at work for 8 hours. Hopefully it's fixed by then.


----------



## travanx

Ordered 2 more of these from storewithstory. About to go the 2nd day with no shipping confirmation. If I have dual monitor setup and one is connected to onboard intel and one is connected to the main video card can that get around the 120hz dual monitor thing?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> 120 skips on one monitor. I got a real good spread at 96 of 7 boxes but 2nd and 5th box not gray so dropped 2 0f 7 frames.


Hmmm








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Holy mother this thread is tough to keep up on! I am at the airport getting ready to head home. Hopefully in time to get the monitors but my boy passed out at school and is in the hospital with his mother. REAL LIFE SUCKS.
> 
> Family > Monitors
> 
> I'll keep everyone updated.
> 
> PS -- I just got my copy of SMTT 2.0 to test input lag. I have my trusty CRT ready to go as well


Oh dear! Hope your son is ok!
Was he just passed out due to exhaustion or something? Hopefully nothing to worry about.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jestin*
> 
> Can't wait for real results because I hope I'm doing something wrong! lol


I don't think you're doing anything wrong - you could well be right, as feared and predicted by others.
If it is indeed the case, I'm not sure what I'll do - stick with it, or get a 96/120hz worthy monitor.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *travanx*
> 
> Ordered 2 more of these from storewithstory. About to go the 2nd day with no shipping confirmation. If I have dual monitor setup and one is connected to onboard intel and one is connected to the main video card can that get around the 120hz dual monitor thing?


I don't think these monitors work with onboard Intel...

My son has some medical issues and is ok, just a big scare. Either way, I appreciate your sentiments.

On frame skipping, I was messing with some timings one and was getting skipped frames on my matte Qnix. We'll probably need to see more results before jumping to conclusions. *crossing fingers*


----------



## okashira

FYI

I have a glossy coming from dream-seller. My first (and hopefully last) Korean 27"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932580721?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

How can I quickly tell if I got what I want? (Glossy, no glass, no matte, just real clear dark blacks glossy)


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *okashira*
> 
> FYI
> 
> I have a glossy coming from dream-seller. My first (and hopefully last) Korean 27"
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932580721?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> How can I quickly tell if I got what I want? (Glossy, no glass, no matte, just real clear dark blacks glossy)


Use the hammer test, hit the front really hard, if it breaks like glass, that's a possible answer.


----------



## okashira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Use the hammer test, hit the front really hard, if it breaks like glass, that's a possible answer.


I will take this into consideration as a glass removal method. :-D


----------



## brialee8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Interesting. He sent me the same message with a couple of differences. He says mine will be shipped within a day. And says there is a short cue... strange... my tracking number says Friday anticipated ship date and Wednesday delivery date..we shall see... here's the message.
> Hi thank you for the message.
> 
> I totally understand you are upset with us, I am deeply sorry for that.
> Recently almost half of the monitors we have received from the manufacture were defected ones, there has been continuous back-and-forth process.
> Therefore we only could ship out few monitors a day, there has been a short cue waiting for our monitors.
> 
> Your monitor will be shipped within a day, we beg for your understanding.
> 
> Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
> We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
> Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us. We will continuously improve our service for better business.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> P.s. I put my order in Sunday . I believe he is going in order.


I put in my order Monday like at 3 AM...so maybe thats why mine is next week


----------



## lawson67

I am buying a new Corsair RM1000w PSU my poor 750w seasonic PSU cant take the benchmarks anymore!









New Corsair RM1000w PSU will be here before 12pm tomorrow


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I am buying a new Corsair RM1000w PSU my poor 750w seasonic PSU cant take the benchmarks anymore!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Corsair RM1000w PSU will be here before 12pm tomorrow


Going the overkill route are we?


----------



## DBCoopa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I am buying a new Corsair RM1000w PSU my poor 750w seasonic PSU cant take the benchmarks anymore!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Corsair RM1000w PSU will be here before 12pm tomorrow


Corsair psu sometimes have bad capacitors, there for I wouldnt buy one if I were you.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> I put in my order Monday like at 3 AM...so maybe thats why mine is next week


That would be my guess... I'll update the status tomorrow when and if it ships. ..fingers crossed for yours and mine!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBCoopa*
> 
> Corsair psu sometimes have bad capacitors, there for I wouldnt buy one if I were you.


You are right but at £131.16p for a 1000watt PSU with a 5 year warranty i can live with that









http://www.dabs.com/products/corsair-1000w-rm1000-rm-series-power-supply-95GY.html?q=corsair%20rm1000&src=16


----------



## Totally Dubbed

What's your thoughts guys?
Would you choose 8bit 96hz 1440p or 10bit 60hz 1440p and multiple input? You have to state why


----------



## MenacingTuba

The DPMulti True 10 are 8 Bit+FRC like the BenQ BL2710PT and the additional FRC (Frame Rate Control) usually offers no visible advantages over a regular 8 bit display. AMD Firepro or Nivida Quaddro cards are required to send 10 bit signals. 10 bit consumer media does not exist. Forget about the additional bits, for the 99% it is just a number.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What's your thoughts guys?
> Would you choose 8bit 96hz 1440p or 10bit 60hz 1440p and multiple input? You have to state why


Most are going to say 96hz, that's my guess. Its about having the smoother quality. Of course some might even say only 120hz.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What's your thoughts guys?
> Would you choose 8bit 96hz 1440p or 10bit 60hz 1440p and multiple input? You have to state why


Don't the TRUE10 default at 75hz?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What's your thoughts guys?
> Would you choose 8bit 96hz 1440p or 10bit 60hz 1440p and multiple input? You have to state why


10bit isn't going to be mainstream for ages, so I don't really see that as a selling point. So it really comes down to multiple inputs or higher refresh - for computer use I'd go with refresh since multiple inputs don't really matter, but if you need multi-purpose you'd need to weigh the importance of those inputs for your intended use.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Most are going to say 96hz, that's my guess. Its about having the smoother quality. Of course some might even say only 120hz.


Hmm - See I'm a little worried about this True10 now - I wanted 96hz+.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> 10bit isn't going to be mainstream for ages, so I don't really see that as a selling point. So it really comes down to multiple inputs or higher refresh - for computer use I'd go with refresh since multiple inputs don't really matter, but if you need multi-purpose you'd need to weigh the importance of those inputs for your intended use.


Very true, for me the multiple input is the reason I looked at the monitor in the first place.
I just was hoping the refresh would be higher than 60hz...I'm tired of being stuck at that and thus it's one or the other right now.
If the multiple input can push 75-96 I'll be more than happy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Don't the TRUE10 default at 75hz?


According to seller description yes, but it also supposedly goes to 120hz too.

Only one buyer here has said that he didn't get above 60 - and it seems like another buyer is going towards that direction too.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hmm - See I'm a little worried about this True10 now - I wanted 96hz+.


You MIGHT be in for a let down, hope I am wrong.


----------



## brialee8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> That would be my guess... I'll update the status tomorrow when and if it ships. ..fingers crossed for yours and mine!


Cool, look forward to it!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You MIGHT be in for a let down, hope I am wrong.


Could well be - either way I would be compromising something.
If the multiple input doesn't accept Xbox360, then that will be going up straight for sale or being returned.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Could well be - either way I would be compromising something.
> If the multiple input doesn't accept Xbox360, then that will be going up straight for sale or being returned.


It seems there is some kind of compromise with every monitor. Some are small though.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> Cool, look forward to it!


It's Friday 9 am in Korea so I assume package will go out while I'm sleeping or maybe in a hours....I'm anxious. Hope I'm not let Down


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It seems there is some kind of compromise with every monitor. Some are small though.


Indeed.
When I decided to upgrade from my LG (which I love) I said - My next monitor has to be better than this one, it also HAS to be IPS (or equivalent).
So that's when is tarted wondering about 120hz IPS. Doesn't exist, but OC versions of it did.
Then I was recommended the QNIX - more I researched the more I understood that was the only affordable way of owning something that does 120hz and has the image quality of an IPS.
I also looked into resolutions and wanted to "futureproof" and also get better quality - so it had to be 1440p.

Ideally my dream monitor would be:
-Matte finish
-27"
-Made by a good company + warranty
-HDMI (Xbox360) and DVI
-120hz
-IPS (or equivalent)
-2ms-5ms
-1440p

As you can see from the above the QNIX (original) fits almost all.
Then the next "gen" QNIX supposedly fits all of them - there I was hoping....anyway - I won't jump to any conclusions just yet, even though others might report something, my panel might somehow be different, who knows.
I was just hoping others would have been: "yes! 96hz, 10bit, xbox360" then I would have been jumping around in my room









In the mean time I've contacted red-cap to see what's his take on this + the whole "limited supply" debate


----------



## Watagump

My Asus goes back tomorrow, I might get dinged a 20% restocking fee also. I am now back on the fence, I want a glossy 1440 that can overclock, under $400. I know where I can do it, assuming they are true glossy, I have a message sent to the seller. Going that route, I also get hit was sales tax, so that's why its almost $400. I have also been checking for sale forums, lastly, I might wait a couple of months, see if glossy come back on ebay at a fair price.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> My Asus goes back tomorrow, I might get dinged a 20% restocking fee also. I am now back on the fence, I want a glossy 1440 that can overclock, under $400. I know where I can do it, assuming they are true glossy, I have a message sent to the seller. Going that route, I also get hit was sales tax, so that's why its almost $400. I have also been checking for sale forums, lastly, I might wait a couple of months, see if glossy come back on ebay at a fair price.


Somebody here on OCN is selling glossy qnix for $400.
I just won one on ebay for $270.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Somebody here on OCN is selling glossy qnix for $400.
> I just won one on ebay for $270.


I know, I have seen his sale. Oh so you were the winning bidder at $270, I saw that one also, good for you. I posted, I think in this thread on a guessing game on what it would sell for.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I know, I have seen his sale. Oh so you were the winning bidder at $270, I saw that one also, good for you. I posted, I think in this thread on a guessing game on what it would sell for.


Yep that was me. I set a bid sniper app on my phone (max $270)... woke up (auction ended at 2am) and I had won.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I know, I have seen his sale. Oh so you were the winning bidder at $270, I saw that one also, good for you. I posted, I think in this thread on a guessing game on what it would sell for.


I estimated at $370 - holy crap $270...mother of god.



EDIT:
Was $380:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/15140#post_21927901


----------



## thrgk

Help! My monitor is freaking out. weird lines across screen, even on startup in bios screen.

Any idea what happened? is it broke? I didnt do anything to it!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Help! My monitor is freaking out. weird lines across screen, even on startup in bios screen.
> 
> Any idea what happened? is it broke? I didnt do anything to it!!


can't see that's a print screen.
Would sound broken....


----------



## thrgk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> can't see that's a print screen.
> Would sound broken....


see all the lines across it?


----------



## goodenough88

So is this limited supply for these monitors due to a newer model coming out soon or just a shortage due to higher demand?


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Help! My monitor is freaking out. weird lines across screen, even on startup in bios screen.
> 
> Any idea what happened? is it broke? I didnt do anything to it!!


Since we are on this topic, did you check if they are stuck or dead pixels?

A few weeks ago, my Qnix fell face down on the table due to wonky stand but I had my arm yanked between the screen and the table in time. Even so, it formed a horizontal line of black pixels across the screen. I took it apart, at the same time removing the tempered glass( pesky glare was killing me) tried applying pressure but no dice. However, suddenly last night the entire row of black pixels just disappeared. Weird I know so I suggest you check if they are stuck pixels or anything like that.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> see all the lines across it?


No - look on OCN, we can't see them, you took a print screen not a picture of it.


----------



## thrgk

hmm, to describe it its kinda like bad stuttering, like when in a game, but its in windows


----------



## tehsprayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehsprayer*
> 
> There is a piece of lint behind the screen is there any way to get it out? It's no big deal, but if its easy to get red of or out to the corner more then why not try.


Anyone?


----------



## digitalforce

And so it begins...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> hmm, to describe it its kinda like bad stuttering, like when in a game, but its in windows


your overclock is maybe too high?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> And so it begins...


Arrrhhhh!
Please relieve me of those mysteries.

On a side note: your son OK dude?


----------



## thrgk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> your overclock is maybe too high?


No, because at 60hz its really bad, but at 110 there isnt really any shuttering. Any idea why? this is SOOO weird


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> No, because at 60hz its really bad, but at 110 there isnt really any shuttering. Any idea why? this is SOOO weird


that's weird, maybe someone else can have some input


----------



## thrgk

Is there a way to see any shuttering and test for it> I dont see any, but if there is a test thats all the better!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehsprayer*
> 
> Anyone?


Yes you have a little bit of lint/hair in between the diffuser layers!... you can get it out but you need to be cautious to not make it worse by marking the diffuser or allowing more dust in...these are put in the monitor in the factory in a dust free controlled environment...with caution and taking your time it is possible to remove it!...to get to the diffuser layers you need to remove the panel from the case and remove the metal frame the panel is sat in...i have a few posts on this page that will explane how to strip down and straighten the bent metal frame which the monitor sits in which is the major course of BLB with these monitors!...however once the frame is off you have full accesses to the diffuser layers!...

However do this at your own risk as you could damage/mark a diffuser layer fairly easily!...If i was to do this i would be some where as dust free as i could find and gently lift up the diffuser layers and once i had found the layer it was stuck on i would attempt to blow it off the diffuser layer with a can of compressed air without touching the diffuser layer with my hands or with any kind of cloth!...Use the link below i have a few posts on that page explaining how to strip off the metal frame from the panel which will give you access to the diffuser layers...I advise you to carefully read the posts before you attempt to strip the monitor down...i hope this helps









http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## Balsagna

Owner of a QNIX Glossy Perfect Pixle that is 120hz stable









Glad to be joining the club


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Somebody here on OCN is selling glossy qnix for $400.
> I just won one on ebay for $270.


Holy crap ... pun intended







... Your the one that outbid me by $4







...
$270+$30 ship, Congrats







Although it is a tempered glass not a true glossy according to the owner ... we had quite a long conversation the day before (see below) ...

Dear rlbenson93,

Very good. Tell me more about the overclock ...
1) Did you try higher OC's 110-120Hz with a custom ICC profile/Driver (Color Calibration Profile) ?
2) Did you try a different DVI- Dual cable, or just use the stock QNIX cable? AND how long is the DVI-D cable?
3) Did you use the 100Hz overclock over the past 10mos and what did you think? gaming etc?
4) And lastly want to confirm this is a true "glossy" panel and not a "tempered glass" which some people mistake for glossy?
5) Does it come with original paperwork and retail box?
Sorry for all the ?'s but I think you can see I want to make a serious bid ... and shipping will be easy/safer? to NV








Thanks Tom

- ttomcatv

Dear ttomcatv,

Never went over 100hz because I hit the pixel clock limit for Nvidia SLI

Never tried different cable from stock one because I was pixel clock limited not bandwidth/cable limited

I never knew of a distinction between gloss and tempered glass. I can say that this monitor has light AG coating, and displays accurate color versus a matte screen. *From looking online about the QX2710 model it seems it is tempered glass.* So I suppose it is not true gloss, if true gloss is only pure glass, though tempered glass will prevent scratching.

I went back an forth with the 100hz OC, with Nvidia every time I updated drivers I would have to recreate my custom resolution and set in the OC so there were times when I did not run it because I was being lazy or trying various drivers for benching purposes.

I will ship it in original box with various paddings, cover screen, and pay for insurance on shipping. I am in Oregon so relatively speaking NV is not that far to travel.

Original box, not paperwork
Only used stock cable.

- rlbenson93

He seemed like a good guy and was quite honest ... Now the best part for you is you may be able to reach 120Hz, because if you read his answer's carefully you'll see he didn't understand how to properly implament the SLI driver and custom ICC's ... by the way he has 2x780TI's SLI AND was running 2 monitors at the same time, he wasn't that impressed with 100Hz OC and bought a 30" IPS. His other 27" was a Shimian., which he took off auction? no bids.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Owner of a QNIX Glossy Perfect Pixle that is 120hz stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to be joining the club


Where did you get it? how much? supplier etc ... a few more details would really help some of us still in the decision phase


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Holy crap ... pun intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Your the one that outbid me by $4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> $270+$30 ship, Congrats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although it is a tempered glass not a true glossy according to the owner ... we had quite a long conversation the day before (see below) ...
> 
> Dear rlbenson93,
> 
> Very good. Tell me more about the overclock ...
> 1) Did you try higher OC's 110-120Hz with a custom ICC profile/Driver (Color Calibration Profile) ?
> 2) Did you try a different DVI- Dual cable, or just use the stock QNIX cable? AND how long is the DVI-D cable?
> 3) Did you use the 100Hz overclock over the past 10mos and what did you think? gaming etc?
> 4) And lastly want to confirm this is a true "glossy" panel and not a "tempered glass" which some people mistake for glossy?
> 5) Does it come with original paperwork and retail box?
> Sorry for all the ?'s but I think you can see I want to make a serious bid ... and shipping will be easy/safer? to NV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Tom
> 
> - ttomcatv
> 
> Dear ttomcatv,
> 
> Never went over 100hz because I hit the pixel clock limit for Nvidia SLI
> 
> Never tried different cable from stock one because I was pixel clock limited not bandwidth/cable limited
> 
> I never knew of a distinction between gloss and tempered glass. I can say that this monitor has light AG coating, and displays accurate color versus a matte screen. *From looking online about the QX2710 model it seems it is tempered glass.* So I suppose it is not true gloss, if true gloss is only pure glass, though tempered glass will prevent scratching.
> 
> I went back an forth with the 100hz OC, with Nvidia every time I updated drivers I would have to recreate my custom resolution and set in the OC so there were times when I did not run it because I was being lazy or trying various drivers for benching purposes.
> 
> I will ship it in original box with various paddings, cover screen, and pay for insurance on shipping. I am in Oregon so relatively speaking NV is not that far to travel.
> 
> Original box, not paperwork
> Only used stock cable.
> 
> - rlbenson93
> 
> He seemed like a good guy and was quite honest ... Now the best part for you is you may be able to reach 120Hz, because if you read his answer's carefully you'll see he didn't understand how to properly implament the SLI driver and custom ICC's ... by the way he has 2x780TI's SLI AND was running 2 monitors at the same time, he wasn't that impressed with 100Hz OC and bought a 30" IPS. His other 27" was a Shimian., which he took off auction? no bids.
> Where did you get it? how much? supplier etc ... a few more details would really help some of us still in the decision phase


It's a tempered glass? aww... crap... i wanted to debezel it to match my other qnix glossy. If that's the case i may resell, but i'll see what i can do with it.
Good news about the 100+hz though. my current one does 120hz. hopefully this can do the same.

also my current one does weird color shifts over 100hz. idk why.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Holy crap ... pun intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Your the one that outbid me by $4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> $270+$30 ship, Congrats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although it is a tempered glass not a true glossy according to the owner ... we had quite a long conversation the day before (see below) ...
> 
> Dear rlbenson93,
> 
> Very good. Tell me more about the overclock ...
> 1) Did you try higher OC's 110-120Hz with a custom ICC profile/Driver (Color Calibration Profile) ?
> 2) Did you try a different DVI- Dual cable, or just use the stock QNIX cable? AND how long is the DVI-D cable?
> 3) Did you use the 100Hz overclock over the past 10mos and what did you think? gaming etc?
> 4) And lastly want to confirm this is a true "glossy" panel and not a "tempered glass" which some people mistake for glossy?
> 5) Does it come with original paperwork and retail box?
> Sorry for all the ?'s but I think you can see I want to make a serious bid ... and shipping will be easy/safer? to NV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Tom
> 
> - ttomcatv
> 
> Dear ttomcatv,
> 
> Never went over 100hz because I hit the pixel clock limit for Nvidia SLI
> 
> Never tried different cable from stock one because I was pixel clock limited not bandwidth/cable limited
> 
> I never knew of a distinction between gloss and tempered glass. I can say that this monitor has light AG coating, and displays accurate color versus a matte screen. *From looking online about the QX2710 model it seems it is tempered glass.* So I suppose it is not true gloss, if true gloss is only pure glass, though tempered glass will prevent scratching.
> 
> I went back an forth with the 100hz OC, with Nvidia every time I updated drivers I would have to recreate my custom resolution and set in the OC so there were times when I did not run it because I was being lazy or trying various drivers for benching purposes.
> 
> I will ship it in original box with various paddings, cover screen, and pay for insurance on shipping. I am in Oregon so relatively speaking NV is not that far to travel.
> 
> Original box, not paperwork
> Only used stock cable.
> 
> - rlbenson93
> 
> He seemed like a good guy and was quite honest ... Now the best part for you is you may be able to reach 120Hz, because if you read his answer's carefully you'll see he didn't understand how to properly implament the SLI driver and custom ICC's ... by the way he has 2x780TI's SLI AND was running 2 monitors at the same time, he wasn't that impressed with 100Hz OC and bought a 30" IPS. His other 27" was a Shimian., which he took off auction? no bids.
> Where did you get it? how much? supplier etc ... a few more details would really help some of us still in the decision phase


I bought in the F/S section of the site. I did pay probably a little premium on it, but the top sellers on Ebay that were still selling the glossy version had them going for around $600ish or so. You could get them directly from a few other sites, but I didn't want to play the lottery.

He was selling 3 of them, all gone though. I paid $400 + shipping. It might not be brand new, but oh well. I'll take my chances.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I bought in the F/S section of the site. I did pay probably a little premium on it, but the top sellers on Ebay that were still selling the glossy version had them going for around $600ish or so. You could get them directly from a few other sites, but I didn't want to play the lottery.
> 
> He was selling 3 of them, all gone though. I paid $400 + shipping. It might not be brand new, but oh well. I'll take my chances.


At least you know for sure its been tested.


----------



## digitalforce

*** QNIX DP10True Initial Testing Results *** I know this is quick and dirty but I wanted you guys to get some info before I headed to bed









*1 - A pic of my three monitors I am testing:*



Left - Qnix "Glossy" (From Bizaroo on Amazon)
Center - Qnix 2710 DPTRUE10 Matte
Right - Overlord Tempest OC Glossy

The True10 looks just like the normal Qnix but seems to have a nicer, almost gun metal bezel. Love it.

*2 - DPTRUE10 Xbox 360 Results*

Strange on this one, I get strange artifacts via HDMI on 1080p but 1080i, 720p and 480p work great and look awesome!!



_Artifacts at 1080p Xbox 360_



_No artifacts and gorgeous 720p Xbox 360_

*DPTRUE10 PC Image Quality/Overclocking Results*

First off, I went into the OSD menu and the second button from the button is the language. Default is Korean. Go into that menu to change to English. I am currently sitting at 23 Brightness and 100 contrast and the picture is GORGEOUS. DEEP blacks, wonderful colors, straight out of the box. Little to no BLB (backlight bleed)



Overclocked to 75, then 96 then 120hz no problem. Interesting, not much gamma shift at 120hz! UFO Frame Skipping Test said valid but I can see it skipping frames regardless







Oh well, it was worth a try right? Either way, I tried Thief and Guild Wars 2 at 120hz. Definitely running at 120hz and seems smooth but not as much as my glossy Qnix.











So far:

*Pros*

* Beautiful image
* Extremely sharp, no issues with matte/AG coating
* Surprisingly good OSD
* Multiple Inputs
* Xbox 360/Console support (1080p strangeness but 720p looks good)

*Cons*

* Overclocks but skips frames

More to come -- Questions welcome


----------



## jonnydent825

Howdy all.

I seem to be having some difficulty overclocking my 27" X-star. I've gotten it to 96Hz in the past multiple times, but after upgrading to the latest AMD beta driver, I've lost it and seem to be unable to get it back.

Set-up:
Windows 7 64-bit
Gigabyte Radeon HD 7870
Driver version 13.350.1005.0
Catalyst Version 14.2
X-Star 27" 1440 Monitor

Steps I took:
- Uninstalled all AMD drivers
- Restart
- Downloaded and installed newest driver from AMD's website
- Ran atikmdag-patcher-1.2
- Restart
- Ran CRU 1.1
- Copied default detailed resolution and changed refresh rate to 96Hz, saved
- Restart
- Checked monitor refresh rate dropdowns in both Catalyst and Windows Control Panel and neither show the 96Hz option.

Any thoughts that might help me troubleshoot would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Watagump

Its what I expected to see, thanks for doing so, +rep.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnydent825*
> 
> Howdy all.
> 
> I seem to be having some difficulty overclocking my 27" X-star. I've gotten it to 96Hz in the past multiple times, but after upgrading to the latest AMD beta driver, I've lost it and seem to be unable to get it back.
> 
> Set-up:
> Windows 7 64-bit
> Gigabyte Radeon HD 7870
> Driver version 13.350.1005.0
> Catalyst Version 14.2
> X-Star 27" 1440 Monitor
> 
> Steps I took:
> - Uninstalled all AMD drivers
> - Restart
> - Downloaded and installed newest driver from AMD's website
> - Ran atikmdag-patcher-1.2
> - Restart
> - Ran CRU 1.1
> - Copied default detailed resolution and changed refresh rate to 96Hz, saved
> - Restart
> - Checked monitor refresh rate dropdowns in both Catalyst and Windows Control Panel and neither show the 96Hz option.
> 
> Any thoughts that might help me troubleshoot would be greatly appreciated!


Maybe try making a different custom resolution?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Overlord Tempest OC Glossy


If you set the 360 to 720p and connect the Overlord to it with an hdmi-dvi adapter it should work. Please test this


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> If you set the 360 to 720p and connect the Overlord to it with an hdmi-dvi adapter it should work. Please test this


Yep, I will bust out the Tempest glossy tomorrow -- Must save marriage tonight first


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Yep, I will bust out the Tempest glossy tomorrow -- Must save marriage tonight first


Show the wife how good shopping online for shoes looks, she will be happy again.


----------



## jonnydent825

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Maybe try making a different custom resolution?


OK, maybe that moved me in the right direction. I added a 96 Hz 1920x1200 resolution option, saved , rebooted, and then got that to show up as an option in Catalyst. So I can get SOMETHING to 96Hz at least.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnydent825*
> 
> OK, maybe that moved me in the right direction. I added a 96 Hz 1920x1200 resolution option, saved , rebooted, and then got that to show up as an option in Catalyst. So I can get SOMETHING to 96Hz at least.


Now try a 97hz and 2560.


----------



## jonnydent825

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Now try a 97hz and 2560.


Tried a 97Hz and 95Hz, no luck.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonnydent825*
> 
> Tried a 97Hz and 95Hz, no luck.


Well if the only thing you did was update the drivers, that might be the problem. I have never been one to update to every new driver, if it helps games I am playing then yeah I do it. But in all honesty I have ran drivers that were FAR behind the latest, a kinda if it aint broke type of deal.


----------



## jonnydent825

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well if the only thing you did was update the drivers, that might be the problem. I have never been one to update to every new driver, if it helps games I am playing then yeah I do it. But in all honesty I have ran drivers that were FAR behind the latest, a kinda if it aint broke type of deal.


Groovy, I'll try going back a version and see if that helps.


----------



## snapdragon

Thanks Digitalforce for the True10 review

1). Are the colors same as the one in Glossy or a bit muted
2) did u get it from excellentcastle

Appreciate that u gave a review when u had a family crisis. Hope ur son is ok


----------



## Chowchilla

Would the artifacting over HDMI be considered a defect? Shame about the frame skipping.. Why is it so common?


----------



## Optimus1978

Morning all - my refund from dream-seller has arrived this morning - so time to start again...

I think will see over the weekend further True10 results and order something on Monday.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SeekerZA

I'd just like to inform everyone about my dead screen. Purchased the QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] Perfect Pixel 27" 2560x1440 PC Monitor last year September. Had it running just fine all the time until this morning. Whilst watching video it just went black.

Turned it off and on, it made a click noise but nothing came on screen. Unplugged it for a while and plugged it in again and same thing. I just Emailed hoping i get a replacement. What do you guys think are the chances of that? Sad Start to weekend hey


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> *** QNIX DP10True Initial Testing Results *** I know this is quick and dirty but I wanted you guys to get some info before I headed to bed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *1 - A pic of my three monitors I am testing:*
> 
> 
> 
> Left - Qnix "Glossy" (From Bizaroo on Amazon)
> Center - Qnix 2710 DPTRUE10 Matte
> Right - Overlord Tempest OC Glossy
> 
> The True10 looks just like the normal Qnix but seems to have a nicer, almost gun metal bezel. Love it.
> 
> *2 - DPTRUE10 Xbox 360 Results*
> 
> Strange on this one, I get strange artifacts via HDMI on 1080p but 1080i, 720p and 480p work great and look awesome!!
> 
> 
> 
> _Artifacts at 1080p Xbox 360_
> 
> 
> 
> _No artifacts and gorgeous 720p Xbox 360_
> 
> *DPTRUE10 PC Image Quality/Overclocking Results*
> 
> First off, I went into the OSD menu and the second button from the button is the language. Default is Korean. Go into that menu to change to English. I am currently sitting at 23 Brightness and 100 contrast and the picture is GORGEOUS. DEEP blacks, wonderful colors, straight out of the box. Little to no BLB (backlight bleed)
> 
> 
> 
> Overclocked to 75, then 96 then 120hz no problem. Interesting, not much gamma shift at 120hz! UFO Frame Skipping Test said valid but I can see it skipping frames regardless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, it was worth a try right? Either way, I tried Thief and Guild Wars 2 at 120hz. Definitely running at 120hz and seems smooth but not as much as my glossy Qnix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far:
> 
> *Pros*
> 
> * Beautiful image
> * Extremely sharp, no issues with matte/AG coating
> * Surprisingly good OSD
> * Multiple Inputs
> * Xbox 360/Console support (1080p strangeness but 720p looks good)
> 
> *Cons*
> 
> * Overclocks but skips frames
> 
> More to come -- Questions welcome


Tnx for your review!!


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Morning all - my refund from dream-seller has arrived this morning - so time to start again...
> 
> I think will see over the weekend further True10 results and order something on Monday.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine still says "Initiated" on the shipping status at Fedex. If it does ship in the next 12 hours I'm getting a refund and going somewhere else. I realize he's got supply issues, but this is getting ridiculous - I ordered almost a week ago now.


----------



## Ronalddus

Here, they changed something. The 'glossy' model has been removed. Now the descreption says: CLONE
Don't know what's the difference between the 299 and 319 ones, but something's going on

http://www.accessorieswhole.com/onix-nl.html


----------



## hogofwar

Anyone have experience with IPSLEDMonitors.com?

Considering buying the glossy from there and get it shipped to the UK (when it comes in stock, if ever).

Or should I go for an ebay seller? I really don't want to have dead pixels, they would probably annoy the hell out of me.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Digital force, cheers for confirming, it is as I had worried about. If it doesn't do 1080p with the Xbox, I'll be either returning it or selling mine.

In other news, here's red caps response to the discontinuing monitors and the 120hz oc:

1. The monitor overclocks to 120hz - but some users are reporting it dropping frames, in other words not ACTAULLY being available to overclock tot hat amount. Does this True10 monitor, without any problem to 120hz, as described in the ebay listing?

- waht's mean " dropping frame"? , the manufacturer open technically the avaialability of overclocking Hz and it means overclocking is user's job.
has someone tried and has a problem ? if so, please let me know so that I report to the manufacturer.

2. I heard that the other monitors (non-true 10) are being "discontinued" and are in "limited supply" is there any confirmation of this? How are your stocks in relation to this?

- the manufacturer think they don't need to make the non-true 10 model because true10 is better at similar price for now. so they stop to make true10 for now.

thank you

Sincerely yours Red-Cap


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Anyone have experience with IPSLEDMonitors.com?
> 
> Considering buying the glossy from there and get it shipped to the UK (when it comes in stock, if ever).
> 
> Or should I go for an ebay seller? I really don't want to have dead pixels, they would probably annoy the hell out of me.


You could get one of the eBay ultimate perfect pixel models, which have been tested to have no bad pixels at all - they come at a price premium though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Digital force, cheers for confirming, it is as I had worried about. If it doesn't do 1080p with the Xbox, I'll be either returning it or selling mine.
> 
> In other news, here's red caps response to the discontinuing monitors and the 120hz oc:
> 
> 1. The monitor overclocks to 120hz - but some users are reporting it dropping frames, in other words not ACTAULLY being available to overclock tot hat amount. Does this True10 monitor, without any problem to 120hz, as described in the ebay listing?
> 
> - waht's mean " dropping frame"? , the manufacturer open technically the avaialability of overclocking Hz and it means overclocking is user's job.
> has someone tried and has a problem ? if so, please let me know so that I report to the manufacturer.
> 
> 2. I heard that the other monitors (non-true 10) are being "discontinued" and are in "limited supply" is there any confirmation of this? How are your stocks in relation to this?
> 
> - the manufacturer think they don't need to make the non-true 10 model because true10 is better at similar price for now. so they stop to make true10 for now.
> 
> thank you
> 
> Sincerely yours Red-Cap


Sounds like the possible end of the single input overclockable monitors. If everyone is switching to the True10s and they aren't really overclockable, that's bad.


----------



## Optimus1978

Given that I won't be using xbox with my monitor, only PC gaming and work, I was thinking I'd give the True 10 a go, as it also sounds like stock is very limited on the older model.

Anyone got any thoughts on me ordering this in the UK?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QX2710-Evolution-II-DP-Multi-True10-2560x1440-10bit-Matte-Monitor-/251468295127?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item3a8cadabd7


----------



## SplinterMD

Pulled the trigger on the True 10 as well, need a multi input monitor for my workstation that could opt as a decent gaming rig.

Seller confirmed 120hz OC, will post some test results as soon as I get my hands on it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You could get one of the eBay ultimate perfect pixel models, which have been tested to have no bad pixels at all - they come at a price premium though.
> Sounds like the possible end of the single input overclockable monitors. If everyone is switching to the True10s and they aren't really overclockable, that's bad.


Indeed it is as I had feared.
Literally anything I imagine or want in life, never comes as it is supposed to do. It's unsurprising for me really.

Anyway, I've re-contacted red cap and thanked him for his responses and then asked if there would be ANY chance of him doing a straight swap for a non true10 model. Ie. a single input one.
The package is STILL in korea, but it is with fedex. If he manages to do that or is willing to do something, he would be an absolute legend.

Not sure who is to blame here, the manufacturer or the sellers.
I'm thinking more the manufacturer, because ALL the sellers have the same listing and description. As it is turning out not to be the case, the sales/reputation of these sellers will drop, and the listings won't sell due to their bad reputation.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Given that I won't be using xbox with my monitor, only PC gaming and work, I was thinking I'd give the True 10 a go, as it also sounds like stock is very limited on the older model.
> 
> Anyone got any thoughts on me ordering this in the UK?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QX2710-Evolution-II-DP-Multi-True10-2560x1440-10bit-Matte-Monitor-/251468295127?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item3a8cadabd7


Mate, I've ordered one (for quite a bit cheaper). If you don't mind waiting - I might have that exact same one coming (should be a perfect model with no BLB and no dead pixels).
I'm looking to exchange it for a normal model with the seller, but I have no idea if the seller will do it or not.
This model doesn't look like it OCs above 60hz. Hope you're aware of that.

And yeah I'm in the UK!


----------



## Optimus1978

Maybe I'm miss understanding, but from the quick review that Digitalforce has done - and it is only his first play, it does overclock to 120hz - but there is some skip frames (not totally sure I understand the impact of that).

The HDMI \ 1080P stuff isn't a worry for me - as long as it works fine DVI-D.

What issues does skipped frames actually cause?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You could get one of the eBay ultimate perfect pixel models, which have been tested to have no bad pixels at all - they come at a price premium though.


Can't find any ultimate glossy ones that ship to the UK, and glossy ones sure are expensive.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Maybe I'm miss understanding, but from the quick review that Digitalforce has done - and it is only his first play, it does overclock to 120hz - but there is some skip frames (not totally sure I understand the impact of that).
> 
> The HDMI \ 1080P stuff isn't a worry for me - as long as it works fine DVI-D.
> 
> What issues does skipped frames actually cause?


I tried googling around, but couldn't find a definite answer.
From my understanding, when it frame skips it's the monitor not handling the frames correctly - just as if it is too much frames for the monitor to handle - so it stutters at higher FPS.
So if you were running 120hz on a given game it would stutter meaning your gameplay experience would be ruined.
Digitalforce might not have realised it on two games (that aren't that intensive FPS games) thus it doesn't matter for slower paced games as much - put that on something like BF4 and you'll start having problems - at least that's my understanding of it.


----------



## Tibag

Guys thanks all for your thought/feedbacks on that new TRUE10.

I've been lurking for months now, and just believed I've found the ideal Qnix with the lowest cons. But that "fake" 120Hz sucks.


----------



## SplinterMD

If I understand correctly, one or two tests are anything but conclusive when it comes to Korean Monitors. We got a couple of Qnix at the office, some run perfectly on 120Hz and some seem to cap around 90hz. I ordered a true 10 since I need multi input and 120hz won't see much use. I think that with more reports coming in we'll know what we're dealing with


----------



## chaoscontrol

Hi guys! Registered here because I just ordered a Qnix DVI-DL matte monitor! Its all thanks to this thread!









I ordered it at TA-Korea Tuesday (payed) and I still haven't got a tracking number. Is this normal? Has anyone else ordered here and what are their experience with this seller? I was secretly hoping for a super speedy delivery like some other members have had.









Thanks guys, really REALLY usefull thread!


----------



## Chowchilla

I wonder if they plan to release a single input TRUE10...


----------



## hogofwar

While it's not Qnix or X-star, has anyone got anythign to say about a Monex monitor?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glossy-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-MONEX-M27QSM-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/151236363274?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item233663c40a


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> While it's not Qnix or X-star, has anyone got anythign to say about a Monex monitor?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glossy-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-MONEX-M27QSM-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/151236363274?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item233663c40a


It doens't overclock. That's what I know


----------



## loki993

So the one thing about these that concerns me is the PWM now...seems some have it and some don't....I dont suppose there is a way to guarantee that unless you buy one used. I game with my lights on and my room is a bit bright so Im concerned about glare so matte may be the way to got for me if I get one of these.

So I suppose the PWM thing is basically like the lottery. Does it seem like most of the have it or most do not?


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> I put in my order Monday like at 3 AM...so maybe thats why mine is next week


Package has shipped.

Dream-seller is a man of his word.


I respect this seller..he has been swamped with orders and seems to handling it well. Not to mention the quality issue he admits. I'm confident I will get a decent monitor


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> So the one thing about these that concerns me is the PWM now...seems some have it and some don't....I dont suppose there is a way to guarantee that unless you buy one used. I game with my lights on and my room is a bit bright so Im concerned about glare so matte may be the way to got for me if I get one of these.
> 
> So I suppose the PWM thing is basically like the lottery. Does it seem like most of the have it or most do not?


What's PWM?
I know those from fans in cases and whatnot - is that the same principal in monitors? I'm confused


----------



## hogofwar

Is there even that much of a difference between a matte and a glossy?


----------



## iCrap

for those that are OCing.... do you notice a change in color when you OC vs when you leave it stock at 60hz?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Is there even that much of a difference between a matte and a glossy?


Yes, matte looks like crap


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Is there even that much of a difference between a matte and a glossy?


yes, you'll go blind by looking at the infinite reflections onto/from the glossy panel.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> Hi guys! Registered here because I just ordered a Qnix DVI-DL matte monitor! Its all thanks to this thread!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered it at TA-Korea Tuesday (payed) and I still haven't got a tracking number. Is this normal? Has anyone else ordered here and what are their experience with this seller? I was secretly hoping for a super speedy delivery like some other members have had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, really REALLY usefull thread!


I bought a pixel perfect one from the same seller earlier in the week too and have not received any tracking info. I am betting that the pixel perfect is going to take a bit longer depending on their QA and it said in the description "pixel perfect = 0 dead/stuck pixels" I will be shooting him a email for a status update in the next day or 2.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

From what I saw onlinwe there's not THAT much difference between matte and glossy -picture wise.
But reflection wise...gloosy is ridiculous if you got any sort of sunlight in your room.


----------



## loki993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What's PWM?
> I know those from fans in cases and whatnot - is that the same principal in monitors? I'm confused


I think its similar...pulse width modulation...its a way to control the brightness...basically instead of reducing the current to the backlight to lower brightness it basically turns the screen on and off really fast. Now usually this is not a huge deal, though some people are very sensitive to it, because the larger manufacturers use a very high frequency. However with these Korean monitors when they use it they use a very low frequency version and it will cause flickering I believe.

NCX did a review and his didnt have any.....Overclock.ru Dead reviewed the same brand and model and his had it..at 160Hz....very very low.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> I think its similar...pulse width modulation...its a way to control the brightness...basically instead of reducing the current to the backlight to lower brightness it basically turns the screen on and off really fast. Now usually this is not a huge deal, though some people are very sensitive to it, because the larger manufacturers use a very high frequency. However with these Korean monitors when they use it they use a very low frequency version and it will cause flickering I believe.


I see, that's most interesting to know!


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Package has shipped.
> 
> Dream-seller is a man of his word.
> 
> 
> I respect this seller..he has been swamped with orders and seems to handling it well. Not to mention the quality issue he admits. I'm confident I will get a decent monitor


You must be the lucky one - he kept promising me it would be shipped the next day, and it never was, and over a week last still not shipped.

Cancelled yesterday.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> I bought a pixel perfect one from the same seller earlier in the week too and have not received any tracking info. I am betting that the pixel perfect is going to take a bit longer depending on their QA and it said in the description "pixel perfect = 0 dead/stuck pixels" I will be shooting him a email for a status update in the next day or 2.


Ty, I just sent a message through the ebay contact form. I hope to hear something from him. I'll post here if I get any reply.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> From what I saw onlinwe there's not THAT much difference between matte and glossy -picture wise.
> But reflection wise...gloosy is ridiculous if you got any sort of sunlight in your room.


Are there any image comparisons online anywhere?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Are there any image comparisons online anywhere?


Reflection, without any sunlight:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/15540#post_21945589

As you can see in terms of reflection, huge difference.
As for the image, yes there was somewhere on the internet, but I have no idea where I saw it.


----------



## Watagump

I love it, people on forums know what frame skipping is, but a place that actually builds monitors does not.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loki993*
> 
> I think its similar...pulse width modulation...its a way to control the brightness...basically instead of reducing the current to the backlight to lower brightness it basically turns the screen on and off really fast. Now usually this is not a huge deal, though some people are very sensitive to it, because the larger manufacturers use a very high frequency. However with these Korean monitors when they use it they use a very low frequency version and it will cause flickering I believe.
> 
> NCX did a review and his didnt have any.....Overclock.ru Dead reviewed the same brand and model and his had it..at 160Hz....very very low.


My Asus is going back because of the PWM dimming, I was warned about it, so I knew it was there. I have never had a monitor cause headaches from it, but the Asus does.


----------



## kevinsbane

The sellers don't build 'em, they're only resellers. I doubt they do much more than order them and have them shipped. Even ipsledmonitors.com don't source their own monitors. The only company that sells these "cheap" monitors and sources the monitors themselves (and thus has knowledge of the monitors and leverage on the manufacturer to improve quality) is overlord computers. The rest? Resellers.

And so the resellers can only advertise what the manufacturer tells them - how do they know better?


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Thanks Digitalforce for the True10 review
> 
> 1). Are the colors same as the one in Glossy or a bit muted
> 2) did u get it from excellentcastle
> 
> Appreciate that u gave a review when u had a family crisis. Hope ur son is ok


1 - The colors are pretty close but the panel seems to be more uniform overall. The colors and blacks are REALLY nice on the True10. I sure do hope they make a single DVI True10. I'd snatch it up it in a moment. There is no bluring or ghosting and even at 120hz, there was no gamma shift.

2 - Yes, I got it from excellentcastle and I am going to try to return it with a pic of the Xbox artifacts










It's a shame really, this is a GORGEOUS monitor both on the outside and colors, blacks, uniformity etc. And seriously, Xbox 360 looks fantastic on it even at 720p.

Sorry, with family stuff, it's hard to keep up on the thread. Thanks for the rep on those who gave it. Any other questions on the True10? I am going to test the Overlord Tempest and then decide between that and my Qnix glossy.


----------



## loki993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> My Asus is going back because of the PWM dimming, I was warned about it, so I knew it was there. I have never had a monitor cause headaches from it, but the Asus does.


Which Asus is that becasue Im also looking at possibly getting a Asus too


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> 1 - The colors are pretty close but the panel seems to be more uniform overall. The colors and blacks are REALLY nice on the True10. I sure do hope they make a single DVI True10. I'd snatch it up it in a moment. There is no bluring or ghosting and even at 120hz, there was no gamma shift.
> 
> 2 - Yes, I got it from excellentcastle and I am going to try to return it with a pic of the Xbox artifacts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a shame really, this is a GORGEOUS monitor both on the outside and colors, blacks, uniformity etc. And seriously, Xbox 360 looks fantastic on it even at 720p.
> 
> Sorry, with family stuff, it's hard to keep up on the thread. Thanks for the rep on those who gave it. Any other questions on the True10? I am going to test the Overlord Tempest and then decide between that and my Qnix glossy.


Did you get a picture (photograph) while doing the frameskipping test?


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Did you get a picture (photograph) while doing the frameskipping test?


It didn't need to. I could see it write two frames, skip one, rinse and repeat just from my own eye sight on 75, 96 and 120hz. It's too bad, because besides that, like I said, the image in desktop and games in phenomenal.









Compared to my Qnix Glossy, the True10 image looks a tad sharper.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> 1 - The colors are pretty close but the panel seems to be more uniform overall. The colors and blacks are REALLY nice on the True10. I sure do hope they make a single DVI True10. I'd snatch it up it in a moment. There is no bluring or ghosting and even at 120hz, there was no gamma shift.
> 
> 2 - Yes, I got it from excellentcastle and I am going to try to return it with a pic of the Xbox artifacts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a shame really, this is a GORGEOUS monitor both on the outside and colors, blacks, uniformity etc. And seriously, Xbox 360 looks fantastic on it even at 720p.
> 
> Sorry, with family stuff, it's hard to keep up on the thread. Thanks for the rep on those who gave it. Any other questions on the True10? I am going to test the Overlord Tempest and then decide between that and my Qnix glossy.


You will want to keep the Tempest, then sell me the glossy Qnix.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> It didn't need to. I could see it write two frames, skip one, rinse and repeat just from my own eye sight on 75, 96 and 120hz. It's too bad, because besides that, like I said, the image in desktop and games in phenomenal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compared to my Qnix Glossy, the True10 image looks a tad sharper.


Interesting.

No gamma shift even while overclocked - that indicates that the gamma shift/uniformity issues/tinting/image retention issues when overclocked are a function of the panel itself, and not the electronics (scalar/PCB). So cable quality will do nothing to improve those issues. Seems like the IPS panels in the older Catleaps/Overlord monitors can handle high pixel clocks better than the PLS panels.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> It's a shame really, this is a GORGEOUS monitor both on the outside and colors, blacks, uniformity etc. And seriously, Xbox 360 looks fantastic on it even at 720p.
> 
> Sorry, with family stuff, it's hard to keep up on the thread. Thanks for the rep on those who gave it. Any other questions on the True10? I am going to test the Overlord Tempest and then decide between that and my Qnix glossy.


Really want to know how much input lag it has. If it's barely more than the single input versions then I'm going to pull the trigger next month.

Everything was perfectly fine @ 96hz, right ?

My only real complaint so far is the power LED being on the front and not the bottom.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Really want to know how much input lag it has. If it's barely more than the single input verions then I'm going to pull the trigger next month.
> 
> Everything was perfectly fine @ 96hz, right ?
> 
> My only real complaint so far is the power LED being on the front and not the bottom.


Well, define "perfectly fine @ 96hz" -- Everything looks gorgeous at 96hz but it's skipping frames. Exact same at 120hz. Gorgeous still/moving images but frame skipping.

I would say, if you want a panel for desktop use and 60hz gaming, this is a fantastic monitor. If you want the best overclocking gaming monitor, this isn't it.

On input lag, I can already tell, even without measuring, the input lag is greater than my Qnix glossy. It feels like my old 60hz Yamakasi Catleap on vsync. It's not horrible but for me, who's been testing SO much the past 6 months, I can feel it a bit.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> No gamma shift even while overclocked - that indicates that the gamma shift/uniformity issues/tinting/image retention issues when overclocked are a function of the panel itself, and not the electronics (scalar/PCB). So cable quality will do nothing to improve those issues. Seems like the IPS panels in the older Catleaps/Overlord monitors can handle high pixel clocks better than the PLS panels.


Yeah who knows, I've been using the same high quality, thick DVI cable for all my tests. The gamma shift on some Qnix going to 120hz is huge. I couldn't really see any at all going to 120hz on my True10.


----------



## kevinsbane

Are you still running it at 96hz even with frame skipping?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Well, define "perfectly fine @ 96hz" -- Everything looks gorgeous at 96hz but it's skipping frames. Exact same at 120hz. Gorgeous still/moving images but frame skipping.


I see
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I would say, if you want a panel for desktop use and 60hz gaming, this is a fantastic monitor. If you want the best overclocking gaming monitor, this isn't it.


To be honest, I really don't care about anything past 60hz. I just want a better display than the one I'm using as since I retired from 10 years of World of Warcraft I'm now playing games that aren't bright all the time and my current display has serious issues with that, and I figured I'd at least give 96hz a try, but it's not important to me.

This display sounds almost perfect for what I want, I like that it doesn't need calibrating.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> On input lag, I can already tell, even without measuring, the input lag is greater than my Qnix glossy. It feels like my old 60hz Yamakasi Catleap on vsync. It's not horrible but for me, who's been testing SO much the past 6 months, I can feel it a bit.


I see.

Do the single input displays that people have raved about in this thread have the lowest amount of input lag out of literally all other displays ?

I've never used anything more advanced than a TN LCD for my PC, so the extra input lag is new to me. I'm a person who's usually bothered by issues, so I'm paranoid about the input lag.

Also, thanks for the responses.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Are you still running it at 96hz even with frame skipping?


I just unplugged it and plugged in my Overlord Tempest. It's gorgeous! More to come.

I already decided not to keep the True10. It's sitting in the corner. Like I said, it's a FANTASTIC image but I want 120hz with no frame skipping. So as of right now, it's between the Qnix Glossy and Overlord Tempest.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I see
> To be honest, I really don't care about anything past 60hz. I just want a better display than the one I'm using as since I retired from 10 years of World of Warcraft I'm now playing games that aren't bright all the time and my current display has serious issues with that, and I figured I'd at least give 96hz a try, but it's not important to me.
> 
> This display sounds almost perfect for what I want, I like that it doesn't need calibrating.
> I see.
> 
> Do the single input displays that people have raved about in this thread have the lowest amount of input lag out of literally all other displays ?
> 
> I've never used anything more advanced than a TN LCD for my PC, so the extra input lag is new to me. I'm a person who's usually bothered by issues, so I'm paranoid about the input lag.
> 
> Also, thanks for the responses.


You are welcome mate!

The True10 should be just fine for you. The input lag isn't horrid but it is higher than the Qnix at 96/110/120hz. I can tell that for sure.

If you want just pure image quality with lots of inputs, you will be happy. I will try to measure the input lag head to head later this weekend.


----------



## hogofwar

Haha so many options...

Do I get it on ebay? Or an independent seller (ipsledmonitors.com)

Do I get the ultimate no dead pixels or normal?

Do I get extra warranty?

Should I go for glossy or matte (I get no direct sunlight on my monitors... mostly, but there is sunlight in the room.)

Should I go for the QNix or wait to see if an overlord tempest ones every come into stock and get that.

Should I go with something completely different?

Should I bother with 120hz overclockability? Seems to have a lot of cons....


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> No gamma shift even while overclocked - that indicates that the gamma shift/uniformity issues/tinting/image retention issues when overclocked are a function of the panel itself, and not the electronics (scalar/PCB). So cable quality will do nothing to improve those issues. Seems like the IPS panels in the older Catleaps/Overlord monitors can handle high pixel clocks better than the PLS panels.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Are you still running it at 96hz even with frame skipping?


NO you are not. And yes the cable does effect it. The electronics have issue with gamma shift when running at an actual overclocked resolution. When frame skipping you are NOT running at that overclocked frame rate, you simply dropping enough frames to lower the refresh to the same data rate as a default 60hz setting. With doing this there will be no gamma shift since you are not pushing any additional data over the cable. Bottom line the same pixel clock is being translated onto the screen. If it seems smoother to you it is either a matter of perspective or you eyes like a microstutter offset rather than the regular response time.

So to clear up some mis-information 120hz frameskipping still equals 60hz or FPS just with an offset skip. The color wont be off much or at all since the resulting processed frames is still 60hz(or slightly higher as some panels that frameskip can achieve like 61/62hz overclocked and be stable). Also going through a scaler adds enough to the the lag response to make an overclock mostly worthless.

EDIT: CORRECTION: you are pushing the data over the cable but the screen is only displaying a 60hz level data rate(60hz but offset) thus only presenting the same amount of data or pixel clock onto the screen and dropping anything extra. This makes it possible to have slightly off colors due to strain on the cable and not the PCB/screen.

This makes the true10 the same as any other non overclockable korean screen aside from being PLS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Haha so many options...
> 
> Do I get it on ebay? Or an independent seller (ipsledmonitors.com)
> 
> Do I get the ultimate no dead pixels or normal?
> 
> Do I get extra warranty?
> 
> Should I go for glossy or matte (I get no direct sunlight on my monitors... mostly, but there is sunlight in the room.)
> 
> Should I go for the QNix or wait to see if an overlord tempest ones every come into stock and get that.
> 
> Should I go with something completely different?
> 
> Should I bother with 120hz overclockability? Seems to have a lot of cons....


1. They are pretty much the same but if you buy from an independant seller you may be able to communicate with a English speaking person. mainly check reviews, ratings, and warranty/return policies.
2. if you want some false security at the expense go for it.
3. YES the squaretrade guys are very easy to work with. A 300+ plus purchase is worth 10% for a warranty.
4. Glossy looks better but reflects. Matte is light and not too bad per many user reviews for the Qnix.
5. Overord monitors can be bought from emaxeon.com for much less (if they will ship to you). I would justget the Qnix but thats me.
6. No answer but you own
7. With a little reading and effort overclocking is more than worth it. And look at the site you are on! Of course you need to overclock.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> NO you are not. And yes the cable does effect it. The electronics have issue with gamma shift when running at an actual overclocked resolution. When frame skipping you are NOT running at that overclocked frame rate, you simply dropping enough frames to lower the refresh to the same data rate as a default 60hz setting. With doing this there will be no gamma shift since you are not pushing any additional data over the cable.


But you are, if you set up the monitor the same way as a single-input monitor. The monitor itself can't dictate to the video card what the video card sends to it. So if you send it a 120hz signal, it'll take that 120hz signal, how can it not? The frame skipping occurs within the internal electronics of the monitor.

Yes, the cable itself can affect your overclock itself, but my observations are concerning the specific symptoms of how and when the gamma shift/uniformity/tinting issues occur, I don't see how it would be affected by a cable. What I'm proposing is this:

Given a monitor that has severe gamma shift at 120hz, and a monitor which does not under the same circumstances. The overclocks are stable, and the only difference is the gamma shift. If in this case, you decide to swap the cables, you will not get a difference in gamma shift - the cable does not affect gamma shift.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> But you are, if you set up the monitor the same way as a single-input monitor. The monitor itself can't dictate to the video card what the video card sends to it. So if you send it a 120hz signal, it'll take that 120hz signal, how can it not? The frame skipping occurs within the internal electronics of the monitor.
> 
> Yes, the cable itself can affect your overclock itself, but my observations are concerning the specific symptoms of how and when the gamma shift/uniformity/tinting issues occur, I don't see how it would be affected by a cable. What I'm proposing is this:
> 
> Given a monitor that has severe gamma shift at 120hz, and a monitor which does not under the same circumstances. The overclocks are stable, and the only difference is the gamma shift. If in this case, you decide to swap the cables, you will not get a difference in gamma shift - the cable does not affect gamma shift.


try looking up the overclord PCB monitor tests between overclocked - frameskipping and overclocked - no frameskipping | with the same panel. I don't know that this has been recorded with a Qnix true10 but it is possible with the 10bit panel the gamma shift will be less, but the point is that it is not being displayed at that speed thus not suffering as much gamma shift and screen uniformity issues. PLS overclocked has gamma issues, IPS does not. Until we have a valid test with no frameskipping the data in inconclusive.

Honestly i hope that it handles gamma shift better as well but with frameskipping we don't know anything new.

EDIT; Your GPU dictate question is due to the scaler being locked. No more data can pass through it thus frameskipping


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I just unplugged it and plugged in my Overlord Tempest. It's gorgeous! More to come.
> 
> I already decided not to keep the True10. It's sitting in the corner. Like I said, it's a FANTASTIC image but I want 120hz with no frame skipping. So as of right now, it's between the Qnix Glossy and Overlord Tempest.


Hi Digitalforce,

Can you let me know where you got the Overlord and Glossy from?

Still weighing up my options...and it all hangs on your reviews.....No Pressure


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> You must be the lucky one - he kept promising me it would be shipped the next day, and it never was, and over a week last still not shipped.
> 
> Cancelled yesterday.


Sorry to hear that. ....

Hope I get a good one


----------



## Totally Dubbed

+rep for the answers digitalforce.
How will you be returning it out of interest?

EDIT:
My Chat transcript from Fedex: -great service there. Let's see what the seller makes of it.
As of yet, I've not received my graphics card and think I've been scammed (I can claim on paypal, but I'll give it a week) - then I'll place another order or something for another Korean monitor.

You have been connected to Sinead .
Chris: Hi there
Sinead : Hello Chris, thanks for visiting FedEx.com! How may I help you today?
Chris: I have a package: taken
Chris: I do not want it to be sent to me
Chris: I want the packge to be sent back to the seller I bought it from. I will pay re-delivery charge.
Sinead : Okay sure - it will be returned billing the sender
Chris: I appreciate that, can you send a confirmation or something?
Chris: And could you contact the seller notifying him of this?
Sinead : You may print / save this chat - Your request has been noted. Just so you are aware an attempt to deliver may still be made, just refuse the package at the door and the seller will be informed - yes.
Chris: In terms of customs charges or redelivery charges, how will this work?
Sinead : If you do not accept the package - you will not be billed for anything
Chris: Will the seller be billed?
Sinead : Yes they will be
Chris: I see. How much is this charge?
Sinead : I cammot advise you of that due to data protection. Sorry
Chris: No problem
Chris: Will you be able to "turn-back" the package before it leaves Korea?
Sinead : No, It's already left.
Sinead : It will be turned around in England
Chris: I see, that's a shame
Chris: As far as Customs and import charges - I won't have to pay anything will I?
Sinead : No you will not
Chris: Perfect Sinead. I appreciate your fast and useful answers!
Sinead : You are very welcome
Sinead : Chris, is there anything else I can assist you with today?
Chris: Nothing more - thank you!


----------



## Optimus1978

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm

Is this the same model as everyone else is getting (none True 10) - as this seems the same price from a store delivered to UK, as I can get from ebay.

Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Monitor-p/qni1.htm
> 
> Is this the same model as everyone else is getting (none True 10) - as this seems the same price from a store delivered to UK, as I can get from ebay.
> 
> Thanks


Looks like it yeah.
Although again, you have to deal with customs and import and I'm not sure than company will be as "lenient" as the Korea sellers.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Looks like it yeah.
> Although again, you have to deal with customs and import and I'm not sure than company will be as "lenient" as the Korea sellers.


"lenient", in what way?

Dream-Seller seemed to be doing me no favours.

Also, the store has stock - which I'm not convinced the ebay sellers do at times.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> "lenient", in what way?
> 
> Dream-Seller seemed to be doing me no favours.
> 
> Also, the store has stock - which I'm not convinced the ebay sellers do at times.


well, simply put: I don't know if they'll send it without declaring its full value etc. So you might be spending over £100 in customs charges.
I contacted them, I'll see what they say as you got me curious.

Also is there any guarantee it being "pixel perfect"?


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> well, simply put: I don't know if they'll send it without declaring its full value etc. So you might be spending over £100 in customs charges.
> I contacted them, I'll see what they say as you got me curious.
> 
> Also is there any guarantee it being "pixel perfect"?


Cool - let me know the response.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Where can you order the True10 from that doesn't require Paypal ?


----------



## Naxxy

Finally my monitor has been delivered 

Will unbox shortly and update with further details









Btw i payed only 26€ for taxes and import expenses


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> Finally my monitor has been delivered
> Will unbox shortly and update with further details
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw i payed only 26€ for taxes and import expenses


Nice one, where from?


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nice one, where from?


http://www.ebay.it/itm/201035886009?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

ta-korea.global


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> http://www.ebay.it/itm/201035886009?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> ta-korea.global


and it was £196 last week when i ordered it, and canceled. hopefully they reduce the price again sometime.

heres the UK link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171236516279?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Also is there any guarantee it being "pixel perfect"?


They will replace monitors with ANY amount of defect pixels.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Cool - let me know the response.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> http://www.ebay.it/itm/201035886009?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> ta-korea.global


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> They will replace monitors with ANY amount of defect pixels.


Hi Chris,
Thank you for your inquiry.
We ship to the UK, shipping costs are calculated at checkout. For customs fees we recommend you use www.dutycalculator.com - also note that the country of origin is South Korea (manufacturer). As far as we can tell there are no custom/import duty, however you will still need to pay VAT.

Feel free to let us know if you have any additional questions.
Thank you,

EDIT:
So yeah they post out to the UK - but they're mistaken in thinking there are no customs charges. There are customs charges and they are god damn hefty, especially at a £200 price tag, You're looking at around £40-50 import.

EDIT2:
I was lying, it's more:


----------



## hogofwar

Hm. So

This with squaretrade (£251.16 total)

Or IPSledmonitors for £277.33 total

Both not including custom (i think ebay may include VAT too)

Which to go for?


----------



## Naxxy

Just plugged it so far 0 dead pixel 0 BLB and perfectly stable at 96hz. 120 is not stable but i just quickly gave it a shot quickly setting it from the Nvidia CP.

Will do some tests play around with it and update with some pics shortly.

Till now it seems perfect and im super happy about it


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I just unplugged it and plugged in my Overlord Tempest. It's gorgeous! More to come.
> 
> I already decided not to keep the True10. It's sitting in the corner. Like I said, it's a FANTASTIC image but I want 120hz with no frame skipping. So as of right now, it's between the Qnix Glossy and Overlord Tempest.


I dont know much about the Overlord Tempest except that its expensive than the Korean ones. I also noticed that they are sold out. It it the only place where we can buy it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Hm. So
> 
> This with squaretrade (£251.16 total)
> 
> Or IPSledmonitors for £277.33 total
> 
> Both not including tax.
> 
> Which to go for?


TA global any day of the week.
As I said, you'll HAVE to pay customs. There are very FEW of us from the UK here, but those that are, will know about VAT and imports.
You'll HAVE to pay it regardless, but the AMOUNT you have to pay will vary hugely.

I HIGHLY suggest you contact the ebay sellers and try and see:
1. If they'll send you a pixel perfect one
2. If they'll send as gift
3. If they even respond to your queries

Replies from sellers I got:
Pixel perfect:

ta-korea.global
excellentcastle
Red-Cap

Normal:

hulustar
bigclothcraft
gn_wholesale
green-sum
The NORMAL sellers told me they could pick out a perfect pixel one and would try and get me the "best monitor" but there was no guarantee.

EDIT:
Went through ALL my messages with all sellers - and in all honesty Red-Cap comes out on top, in terms of customer service BY FAR.
None of the others actually bothered to try and send or offer a perfect pixel model - even when I requested it, on their own listings that were "perfect pixel"
They all said that they could mark it down and send as a gift though.

Red-cap on the other hand, brilliant customer service.
I'll know how he/she/they really deal with customers now, as I've scheduled a return with them. I'll see what they say and/or do.
For the same Price I paid for the True10, I'll just gladly accept a straight swap for a "ultimate pixel" QNIX.


----------



## Jayster

Would anybody care to explain why 96hz is the number of choice beyond just being a rate that's attainable by most monitors. For example why not 100hz?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayster*
> 
> Would anybody care to explain why 96hz is the number of choice beyond just being a rate that's attainable by most monitors. For example why not 100hz?


24FPS movies play better with a refresh rate that is a multiple of 24 thus removing the pulldown stutter effect natively. if you have 100hz video playback will have to compensate which is not always perfect leaving stutter. Having 96hz will give butter smooth playback and uses less hardware to play higher quality(bluerays) videos even better. See the madvr thread regarding "pull down" for more information.

EDIT: I think this is in the OP and if it is not it should be.


----------



## Jayster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> 24FPS movies play better with a refresh rate that is a multiple of 24 thus removing the pulldown stutter effect natively.


But what I don't understand is why is this a problem if nearly all monitors are 60 and thus not a multiple of 24.


----------



## Optimus1978

Ok , asked ExcellentCastle and ta-Korea the questions above, plus a few more - let's see what I get back and when.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayster*
> 
> But what I don't understand is why is this a problem if nearly all monitors are 60 and thus not a multiple of 24.


It is not a "problem" but it does provide better support for seamless video playback. Yes just about all screens are 60hz and that is also why many advanced users try and set the screen refresh to even 48hz to have stutter free playback. It is very likely your eyes have adjusted to it or you are not attentive enough to see it. I didn't used to think it was a big deal but after seeing high quality video content at a multiple of 24hz there is a definite improvement of clean video movement.

Like i said this is an old topic with mountains of threads about it. You can search "pull down" "frame insertion" "video stutter" and other common terms to find lots of talk about it. Many users see no difference but many also do, i would say the change is about the same between 60FPS and 96FPS. It is not huge but definitely note worthy and helps tremendously when playing high quality content with little resources.

EDIT: this is also why people when they get a 120hz screen all of a sudden think the video playback is much better when technically there is no new information or playback. It simply seems smoother without pull down refresh matching per software filtering.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> TA global any day of the week.
> As I said, you'll HAVE to pay customs. There are very FEW of us from the UK here, but those that are, will know about VAT and imports.
> You'll HAVE to pay it regardless, but the AMOUNT you have to pay will vary hugely.
> 
> I HIGHLY suggest you contact the ebay sellers and try and see:
> 1. If they'll send you a pixel perfect one
> 2. If they'll send as gift
> 3. If they even respond to your queries
> 
> Replies from sellers I got:
> Pixel perfect:
> 
> ta-korea.global
> excellentcastle
> Red-Cap
> 
> Normal:
> 
> hulustar
> bigclothcraft
> gn_wholesale
> green-sum
> The NORMAL sellers told me they could pick out a perfect pixel one and would try and get me the "best monitor" but there was no guarantee.
> 
> EDIT:
> Went through ALL my messages with all sellers - and in all honesty Red-Cap comes out on top, in terms of customer service BY FAR.
> None of the others actually bothered to try and send or offer a perfect pixel model - even when I requested it, on their own listings that were "perfect pixel"
> They all said that they could mark it down and send as a gift though.
> 
> Red-cap on the other hand, brilliant customer service.
> I'll know how he/she/they really deal with customers now, as I've scheduled a return with them. I'll see what they say and/or do.
> For the same Price I paid for the True10, I'll just gladly accept a straight swap for a "ultimate pixel" QNIX.


What do you mean to ask for perfect pixel? Just to make ulltra sure they send the best possible monitor, despite what their listing says?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> What do you mean to ask for perfect pixel? Just to make ulltra sure they send the best possible monitor, despite what their listing says?


He is trying to make sure they know that if they don't send a PP monitor there will be blood.

PP = Scam......


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> What do you mean to ask for perfect pixel? Just to make ulltra sure they send the best possible monitor, despite what their listing says?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> He is trying to make sure they know that if they don't send a PP monitor there will be blood.
> 
> PP = Scam......


I'm asking them to check before sending it to me.
I'll be using this monitor for at least 2 years, and got slight OCD when it comes to things on-screen.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm asking them to check before sending it to me.
> I'll be using this monitor for at least 2 years, and got slight OCD when it comes to things on-screen.


I would go for red-cap but this still allow up o 1 dead pixel!


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm asking them to check before sending it to me.
> I'll be using this monitor for at least 2 years, and got slight OCD when it comes to things on-screen.


I know what you are doing and i with you on it. If i spent extra money on a guarantee that has as bad of a record as the PP scam i would be asking them to do things that they have listed they are going to do already too. My point is that you are making a statement by contacting them, that they better send you a good monitor or you (as a soon to be 2 year and OCD free user) will take them up on their proposed warranty. You might also want to make a point that dark, light, stuck and dim pixels will be counted as far as your concerned(which normally per many PP policies are technically not counted) as well and they better cover them too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I would go for red-cap but this still allow up o 1 dead pixel!


And dark, stuck, bright pixels? Probably not covered.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I know what you are doing and i with you on it. If i spent extra money on a guarantee that has as bad of a record as the PP scam i would be asking them to do things that they have listed they are going to do already too. My point is that you are making a statement by contacting them, that they better send you a good monitor or you (as a soon to be 2 year and OCD free user) will take them up on their proposed warranty. You might also want to make a point that dark, light, stuck and dim pixels will be counted as far as your concerned(which normally per many PP policies are technically not counted) as well and they better cover them too.
> And dark, stuck, bright pixels? Probably not covered.


soooo.... Ipsledmonitors.com then? They replace for any defective pixel at all...


----------



## Jayster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> It is not a "problem" but it does provide better support for seamless video playback. Yes just about all screens are 60hz and that is also why many advanced users try and set the screen refresh to even 48hz to have stutter free playback. It is very likely your eyes have adjusted to it or you are not attentive enough to see it. I didn't used to think it was a big deal but after seeing high quality video content at a multiple of 24hz there is a definite improvement of clean video movement.
> 
> Like i said this is an old topic with mountains of threads about it. You can search "pull down" "frame insertion" "video stutter" and other common terms to find lots of talk about it. Many users see no difference but many also do, i would say the change is about the same between 60FPS and 96FPS. It is not huge but definitely note worthy and helps tremendously when playing high quality content with little resources.
> 
> EDIT: this is also why people when they get a 120hz screen all of a sudden think the video playback is much better when technically there is no new information or playback. It simply seems smoother without pull down refresh matching per software filtering.


Do you have any idea what framerate youtube usually uses?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I know what you are doing and i with you on it. If i spent extra money on a guarantee that has as bad of a record as the PP scam i would be asking them to do things that they have listed they are going to do already too. My point is that you are making a statement by contacting them, that they better send you a good monitor or you (as a soon to be 2 year and OCD free user) will take them up on their proposed warranty. You might also want to make a point that dark, light, stuck and dim pixels will be counted as far as your concerned(which normally per many PP policies are technically not counted) as well and they better cover them too.
> And dark, stuck, bright pixels? Probably not covered.


Everyone that has bought Excelentcastle Ultimate prefect pixel monitor over the last 2 months has indeed received an Ultimate perfect pixel monitor...coincidence?...Luck?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I would go for red-cap but this still allow up o 1 dead pixel!


Indeed, but that's where contacting changes things.
See what works best for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I know what you are doing and i with you on it. If i spent extra money on a guarantee that has as bad of a record as the PP scam i would be asking them to do things that they have listed they are going to do already too. My point is that you are making a statement by contacting them, that they better send you a good monitor or you (as a soon to be 2 year and OCD free user) will take them up on their proposed warranty. You might also want to make a point that dark, light, stuck and dim pixels will be counted as far as your concerned(which normally per many PP policies are technically not counted) as well and they better cover them too.
> And dark, stuck, bright pixels? Probably not covered.


Indeed you're very correct in all of what you said.
There's no guarantee, but at least a written agreement of some sorts via a message.

End of the day, I rather go for a seller that guarantees it via text, rather than a copy/pasted marketing technique on their listing.

In other news:
IPSLEDMONITORS Sales Team
Got back to me, sent me this (regarding customs):

That does not appear to be accurate, our guess is that the tool is using the wrong Harmonized Tariff Code. 8528.59.3100 is the correct code.
http://ec.europa.eu/taxation_customs/dds2/taric/measures.jsp?Lang=en&Area=&Taric=8528593100

When I use Product Category corresponding to 8528.59.3100 there is no Duty, which is consistent with the TARIC database. It is possible that a customs agent could declare the item wrong, but it may also be possible correct with your local agency. Unfortunately, that is beyond our control.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayster*
> 
> Do you have any idea what framerate youtube usually uses?


30fps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Everyone that has bought Excelentcastle Ultimate prefect pixel monitor over the last 2 months has indeed received an Ultimate perfect pixel monitor...coincidence?...Luck?


nop - but it is about £50 more


----------



## hogofwar

Is there a difference to buying this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
To this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271380919031?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item3f2f9032f7

One has converted currency but is cheaper including shipping, where as the other isn't.

Is there a reason not to go with the dollar one?


----------



## Watagump

Well, my Asus is gone, didn't have to pay the 20% restocking fee. I have a best offer in at $320, to storewithstory for a PP Qnix 2710 matte.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Is there a difference to buying this:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
> To this:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271380919031?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item3f2f9032f7
> 
> One has converted currency but is cheaper including shipping, where as the other isn't.
> 
> Is there a reason not to go with the dollar one?


Identical to me.


----------



## hogofwar

One is £270.98 + free shipping for me.

The other is US dollars converted to GBP as: £233.84+£11.99 shipping.

Other than that they seem to be exactly the same item.


----------



## Ronalddus

Posted already, but arent these ones a good choice?
Seems pretty cheap to me

http://www.accessorieswhole.com/onix-nl.html


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Sorry, with family stuff, it's hard to keep up on the thread. Thanks for the rep on those who gave it. Any other questions on the True10? I am going to test the Overlord Tempest and then decide between that and my Qnix glossy.


From your image it looks like you have a glass Qnix, otherwise it would look like the Overlord when turned off, you should take a picture of them side by side. Test the Overlord @720p yet? Glass vs. Glossy when turned off.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronalddus*
> 
> Posted already, but arent these ones a good choice?
> Seems pretty cheap to me
> 
> http://www.accessorieswhole.com/onix-nl.html


they have the same ebay on their page too.


----------



## hogofwar

Gonna go ahead and buy this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271375013937?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Unless anyone wants to convince me not to/go for another seller/type?


----------



## Watagump

Boo, he didn't take my offer of $320, countered back at $335, I countered back at $325, I imagine $330 will be the number.


----------



## zetachi

So anyone with the X-Star have an issue with the monitor when it should go into either sleep mode or screen saver mode. Mine just starts flashing on and off. Just started a few days ago. Tried a re-boot but that did not fix. Once you hit the mouse or keyboard to wake it up it works fine (stops flashing) untill next sleep mode.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Gonna go ahead and buy this:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271375013937?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> Unless anyone wants to convince me not to/go for another seller/type?


Yup that's perfect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Boo, he didn't take my offer of $320, countered back at $335, I countered back at $325, I imagine $330 will be the number.


which seller? Which one? Le link?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yup that's perfect.
> which seller? Which one? Le link?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/321300835630?ssPageName=STRK:MEBOFFX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1432.l2649


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321300835630?ssPageName=STRK:MEBOFFX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1432.l2649


best of luck - hope you don't end up with dead pixels though.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> best of luck - hope you don't end up with dead pixels though.


My Asus ended up getting dead pixels, didn't even own it a month. Always a risk with these things, same as TV's. The Ultimate, are just getting too high IMHO.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> My Asus ended up getting dead pixels, didn't even own it a month. Always a risk with these things, same as TV's. The Ultimate, are just getting too high IMHO.


ah I see!
Well IN all honesty now I'm in no rush - In order to really benefit from the resolution and monitor I need the GPU power.
And I don't want to be spending £200+ on a second GPU.
So If my GPU doesn't arrive, I might actually opt OUT of buying a Korean monitor all together...I'll see


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well, my Asus is gone, didn't have to pay the 20% restocking fee. I have a best offer in at $320, to storewithstory for a PP Qnix 2710 matte.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Boo, he didn't take my offer of $320, countered back at $335, I countered back at $325, I imagine $330 will be the number.
Click to expand...

Whoa ... your going to the Dark/Fuzzy side? ... I thought you were a "True Glossy" believer








BUT in all honesty ... I think you'll be OK with the QNIX Matte as I believe it's a much improved real semi-gloss coating, nothing like the old Samsung/Dell coatings of the near past









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> From your image it looks like you have a glass Qnix, otherwise it would look like the Overlord when turned off, you should take a picture of them side by side. Test the Overlord @720p yet? Glass vs. Glossy when turned off.


I agree ... we need more pics/closer examination ... as the units from amazon may not be true glossy but tempered glass over who knows what ... see *HERE* ... especially if the True10 Matte is equal or better in color/blacks/uniformity to the QNIX as initially observed by digital ...
I trust digitalforce ... he will get to the bottom of it









post 15549


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Whoa ... your going to the Dark/Fuzzy side? ... I thought you were a "True Glossy" believer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT in all honesty ... I think you'll be OK with the QNIX Matte as I believe it's a much improved real semi-gloss coating, nothing like the old Samsung/Dell coatings of the near past
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree ... we need more pics/closer examination ... as the units from amazon may not be true glossy but tempered glass over who knows what ... see *HERE* ... especially if the True10 Matte is equal or better in color/blacks/uniformity to the QNIX as initially observed by digital ...
> I trust digitalforce ... he will get to the bottom of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> post 15549


I have never owned a glossy, I always looked at them as a true upgrade. Been on IPS panels for years, I just wanted to feel everything was a step up, overclocking, size, glossy etc. But I don't want to keep waiting and hoping I could get it all, so decided to try and land one of these before they might all be gone.


----------



## bluedevil

Looks like my Qnix QX2710 EVO II will be here soon.


----------



## twerk

Thread cleaned.

Can we please refrain from name calling and insulting each other. If there is any more of it warnings will be issued.

Keep the discussion respectful! Thanks guys.


----------



## tpi2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Thread cleaned.
> 
> Can we please refrain from name calling and insulting each other. If there is any more of it warnings will be issued.
> 
> Keep the discussion respectful! Thanks guys.


This right here.









Relax and enjoy the weekend guys.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Thread cleaned.
> 
> Can we please refrain from name calling and insulting each other. If there is any more of it warnings will be issued.
> 
> Keep the discussion respectful! Thanks guys.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpi2007*
> 
> This right here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Relax and enjoy the weekend guys.


yo yo yo yooooo
CHILL


----------



## bluedevil




----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


LOL nice post...And I would if i could get my bloody graphic cards to work correctly


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*


Had to be done:


----------



## iCrap

And that's assuming BF4 opens without crashing or giving connection errors.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> And that's assuming BF4 opens without crashing or giving connection errors.


hahahaha yes


----------



## Watagump

Well I have more bad news, the seller agreed to my offer of $325, so now that bad part. Waiting and hoping for a good one.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Keep calm

Play Dark Souls 2



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Then stop being calm


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Keep calm
> 
> Play Dark Souls 2
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Then stop being calm


Keep calm, and wait for the PC version.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> LOL nice post...And I would if i could get my bloody graphic cards to work correctly


Hows that AMD thing working out for you? I had to say it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well I have more bad news, the seller agreed to my offer of $325, so now that bad part. Waiting and hoping for a good one.


Ohhhh let us know how it goes buddy! Good price though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> Keep calm, and wait for the PC version.


GTA5 PC master race! haha


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ohhhh let us know how it goes buddy! Good price though.
> GTA5 PC master race! haha


It took longer for them to agree then it did to counter my first offer. I really expected another counter.


----------



## DBEAU

I thought this thing didn't have a built in scaler. Playing some games that don't support 1440 are still showing fullscreen. Am I missing something?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> I thought this thing didn't have a built in scaler. Playing some games that don't support 1440 are still showing fullscreen. Am I missing something?


The GPU can do the scaling also, depending how you have it set in the control panel.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Hi Digitalforce,
> 
> Can you let me know where you got the Overlord and Glossy from?
> 
> Still weighing up my options...and it all hangs on your reviews.....No Pressure


Hi there,

As Tuba confirmed, my Qnix is glass but I think it's a light glass over glossy. It's near perfect with no dead pixels and no BLB. It's gorgeous! I got the Qnix from Amazon (Bizaroo) and I got the Overlord from their website. They sold out QUICK the other day.

So far, the Overlord is near perfect at 60hz. Testing 96/120hz as we speak.. more to come.










Sorry all -- trying to catch up. My son was in the hospital again today so another hectic day over from OCN









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> I dont know much about the Overlord Tempest except that its expensive than the Korean ones. I also noticed that they are sold out. It it the only place where we can buy it?


I got it from the Overlord website as I mentioned. I have seen them on eBay as well. They are supposedly OCable A+ panels. We'll see about that... muhahahaha.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> From your image it looks like you have a glass Qnix, otherwise it would look like the Overlord when turned off, you should take a picture of them side by side. Test the Overlord @720p yet? Glass vs. Glossy when turned off.


Good catch Tuba. I will take a better pic of the monitors. I couldn't find my good camera last night. Indeed though, the Overlord is a glossy and the Qnix looks like glass. Either way, I am still shocked how awesome the Qnix glass looks.









Sorry all -- was busy at hospital again. Also, my same son infected my PC with spyware.. twice.. in the last 24 hours. Had to rebuild my fracking PC.. twice. I'll try to catch up! Testing Overlord now...


----------



## jourelemode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> Hi guys! Registered here because I just ordered a Qnix DVI-DL matte monitor! Its all thanks to this thread!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered it at TA-Korea Tuesday (payed) and I still haven't got a tracking number. Is this normal? Has anyone else ordered here and what are their experience with this seller? I was secretly hoping for a super speedy delivery like some other members have had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys, really REALLY usefull thread!


I ordered from ta.korea about two weeks ago, his communication was good. He replied within 24hrs. Also, it took like a few days for the monitor to get to me. I got a pixel perfect version fyi. it was indeed pixel perfect and very minimal blb which I have just left as is.


----------



## Jixr

Hey guys I have a weird question.

So I found a local guy who was willing to trade his Qnix for my Crossover and some cash, but when I saw the monitor, i noticed that it has a working OSD, which I thought it didn't have.

( also multiple inputs, I thought they were only HDMI )

Also, when he had it set to 120hz, it didn't look smooth at all, and even at 90, my 60hz still looked smoother.

( and for reference, my roomie has a 120hz asus monitor, so I know how 120hz is supposed to look )

should i go for it, or just keep with my tried and tested crossover.


----------



## digitalforce

Well, here is my update on Qnix Glossy (Glass) vs Overlord Tempest

First off, they are nearly identical except as noted below. The best way to describe is listing pros and cons:

*Overlord Tempest OC*

+ 110hz Overclock
+ No frame skipping
+ Gorgeous image out of the box. No calibration needed
+ Deep blacks/nice colors
+ Adjustable stand with tilt/height adjustment
+ Minimal reflections on glossy surface
- Price (~$550)
- Hard to find
- A bit more input lag than Qnix

*Qnix Glossy/Glass*

+110hz Overclock
+ No frame skipping
+ Gorgeous image but calibration needed (see below)
+ Deep blacks and amazing colors (Especially with glass as I hear most glass blacks are "gray")
+ PERFECT panel. No BLB or dead pixel
+ Price ($359 on Amazon)
- Reflective in bright room (My office has shades and is great)
- Needs pro calibration -- Luckily it looks AMAZING after my i1 Display Pro did it's magic

Well folks, tough decision. Both amazing monitors, trying to decide which one to keep. I have gotten so picky looking at these monitors, they are all fantastic!









I am debating on taking apart my Qnix and removing the glass. I think it's glossy beneath the glass but I am not sure...


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jixr*
> 
> should i go for it, or just keep with my tried and tested crossover.


Multi-input monitors drop the extra frames when overclocked, so they won't look as smooth when set over 60hz and they also have at least a frame of input lag. Do not trade.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jixr*
> 
> Hey guys I have a weird question.
> 
> So I found a local guy who was willing to trade his Qnix for my Crossover and some cash, but when I saw the monitor, i noticed that it has a working OSD, which I thought it didn't have.
> 
> ( also multiple inputs, I thought they were only HDMI )
> 
> Also, when he had it set to 120hz, it didn't look smooth at all, and even at 90, my 60hz still looked smoother.
> 
> ( and for reference, my roomie has a 120hz asus monitor, so I know how 120hz is supposed to look )
> 
> should i go for it, or just keep with my tried and tested crossover.


Sounds like a multi-input version of the Qnix, which would mean it isn't overclockable (which would probably explain the smoothness issue as it would be dropping frames). I think I'd stick with the Crossover.


----------



## digitalforce

Anybody know where you can get an extra thumbscrew for the base of the Qnix monitor? I don't know what they are called exactly and can't find it online..


----------



## lawson67

Yay fixed sorted out what was wrong with my Graphics cards and they are working fine now...very fast indeed..GPU-Z and the AMD R9 290 cards conflict coursing shuddering and rapid frame rate loss....Turn off GPU-Z monitoring and no throttling on heaven 4.0 and 120 FPS benchmark result with heaven 4.0 maxed out at 2560x1440 very happy indeed









No Throttling!..the line in the middle jammed up at the top was the one hour benchmark!


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yay fixed sorted out what was wrong with my Graphics cards and they are working fine now...very fast indeed..GPU-Z and the AMD R9 290 cards conflict coursing shuddering and rapid frame rate loss....Turn off GPU-Z monitoring and no throttling on heaven 4.0 and 120 FPS benchmark result with heaven 4.0 maxed out at 2560x1440 very happy indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Throttling!..the line in the middle jammed up at the top was the one hour benchmark!


Good to hear mate! Enjoy those awesome cards.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Good to hear mate! Enjoy those awesome cards.


Thanks mate and i hope your Boy is ok?


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> The GPU can do the scaling also, depending how you have it set in the control panel.


I have it set to "no scaling" in NVCP yet it still scales.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks mate and i hope your Boy is ok?


Yessir -- Thanks for asking. Trying to take care of family and tech is a tough balance -- Bwahahhaha!










As of right now, I am sticking with my Qnix. Even with the glass, I have been playing games tonight and I LOVE IT. I just wish I could tell if it was matte or glossy behind the glass without tearing it apart..


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Yessir -- Thanks for asking. Trying to take care of family and tech is a tough balance -- Bwahahhaha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As of right now, I am sticking with my Qnix. Even with the glass, I have been playing games tonight and I LOVE IT. I just wish I could tell if it was matte or glossy behind the glass without tearing it apart..


It is not a hard job at all to find that out!...unscrew the 4 screws at the back of the monitor along the bottom Edge...then pull the bezel off with your fingers....then pop the panel up and unplug the cable at the back of the panel...lift the panel out of the case take it to a nice big dinning room table and lay it flat down face upright...take the 2 rails off the side of the metal frame as pictured below from when i straightened my my frame to fix my BLB.....once you have the rails off it becomes clear how to take the metal from off the panel....once the metal frame is off the panel you will see a sheet of glass or no glass...no glass it true Glossy!...whole job will take you 20-30 mins to strip down inspect and refit


----------



## Chowchilla

Hmm. Think I might wait in the hope they release single input TRUE10. My 22" Sammy still has some life in it.


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> 1 - The colors are pretty close but the panel seems to be more uniform overall. The colors and blacks are REALLY nice on the True10. I sure do hope they make a single DVI True10. I'd snatch it up it in a moment. There is no bluring or ghosting and even at 120hz, there was no gamma shift.
> 
> 2 - Yes, I got it from excellentcastle and I am going to try to return it with a pic of the Xbox artifacts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a shame really, this is a GORGEOUS monitor both on the outside and colors, blacks, uniformity etc. And seriously, Xbox 360 looks fantastic on it even at 720p.
> 
> Sorry, with family stuff, it's hard to keep up on the thread. Thanks for the rep on those who gave it. Any other questions on the True10? I am going to test the Overlord Tempest and then decide between that and my Qnix glossy.


Were there any dead pixels since you didn't get the pixel perfect one. Thanks again


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jourelemode*
> 
> I ordered from ta.korea about two weeks ago, his communication was good. He replied within 24hrs. Also, it took like a few days for the monitor to get to me. I got a pixel perfect version fyi. it was indeed pixel perfect and very minimal blb which I have just left as is.


Good to hear! Thanks for the reply.







Also got the PP one but as I read some posts they might all be the same batch eventually.

Also, thank you lawson67 for all the great posts! Already favorited(?) some of them so I can get rid of the BLB straight away (if applicable), also the CRU files are a great help I expect.


----------



## karamel

Hi all! I got a problem with my X-Star DP2710.

It looks like my monitor is capable to do 120hz without artifacts or green horizontal lines. However, top-right of screen becomes darker and dark columns appear when I increase my refresh rate. It is most obvious at dark green or gray colors. This is picture at 120hz:



Does anyone here also suffer from this issue? Can tape mod fix it?


----------



## lawson67

I am glad i upgraded my PSU from my 750w Seasonic to a Corsair RM1000w...Also i bought one those plugs that measure wattage being drawn from the wall!...ruining heaven 4.0...And with 2x R9 290 cards ruining in crossfire and not overclocked it was mostly pulling around around 680 -700 watts and peaked at 756.9 watts!....i could not be more happier with these cards and and my system set up!.. I can now further enjoy my Qnix while gaming at 2560x1440 at 120hz with Ultra Quality settings turned on!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karamel*
> 
> Hi all! I got a problem with my X-Star DP2710.
> 
> It looks like my monitor is capable to do 120hz without artifacts or green horizontal lines. However, top-right of screen becomes darker and dark columns appear when I increase my refresh rate. It is most obvious at dark green or gray colors. This is picture at 120hz:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone here also suffer from this issue? Can tape mod fix it?


No tape cant fix this it is screen uniformity from over clocking the monitor...some have it worse than others!...you can greatly reduce it by using optimized timings for you 120hz profile and sometimes even a cable change or a DVI-D port change can even reduce it even further!...However all i would recommend you do right now is to use my timings in the picture below for your 120hz profile!...don't apply these timings for your 96hz profile leave them at Auto....Also you are more than welcome to use my ICC profiles posted below which will completely correct the higher gamma shift ( darker screen ) seen when over clocking the monitor!.. i calibrated these ICC profiles at a brightness of 200 cd/m...which from a dark screen is about 18 clicks up in the BRI+ button and 17 clicks up for the 96hz profile ...these will also help with your overclocked screen uniformity!....i also recommended using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below



http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Well, here is my update on Qnix Glossy (Glass) vs Overlord Tempest
> 
> First off, they are nearly identical except as noted below. The best way to describe is listing pros and cons:
> 
> *Overlord Tempest OC*
> 
> + 110hz Overclock
> + No frame skipping
> + Gorgeous image out of the box. No calibration needed
> + Deep blacks/nice colors
> + Adjustable stand with tilt/height adjustment
> + Minimal reflections on glossy surface
> - Price (~$550)
> - Hard to find
> - A bit more input lag than Qnix
> 
> *Qnix Glossy/Glass*
> 
> +110hz Overclock
> + No frame skipping
> + Gorgeous image but calibration needed (see below)
> + Deep blacks and amazing colors (Especially with glass as I hear most glass blacks are "gray")
> + PERFECT panel. No BLB or dead pixel
> + Price ($359 on Amazon)
> - Reflective in bright room (My office has shades and is great)
> - Needs pro calibration -- Luckily it looks AMAZING after my i1 Display Pro did it's magic
> 
> Well folks, tough decision. Both amazing monitors, trying to decide which one to keep. I have gotten so picky looking at these monitors, they are all fantastic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am debating on taking apart my Qnix and removing the glass. I think it's glossy beneath the glass but I am not sure...


Thanks for the impressions +rep.
If it was me it would be the QNIX, SIMPLY because of the HUGE price difference.
Heck you could even almost buy two QNIX's for the price of one Overlord.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jixr*
> 
> Hey guys I have a weird question.
> 
> So I found a local guy who was willing to trade his Qnix for my Crossover and some cash, but when I saw the monitor, i noticed that it has a working OSD, which I thought it didn't have.
> 
> ( also multiple inputs, I thought they were only HDMI )
> 
> Also, when he had it set to 120hz, it didn't look smooth at all, and even at 90, my 60hz still looked smoother.
> 
> ( and for reference, my roomie has a 120hz asus monitor, so I know how 120hz is supposed to look )
> 
> should i go for it, or just keep with my tried and tested crossover.


I would keep your monitor.
The version your friend has is the multiple port one - just like the new true10 model did.
As you'll know now that no matter what the manufacturer says, the multiple port ones do NOT overclock past 60hz - and thus drop frames. Long story short, you would be buying a 1440p, 60hz, multiple input, 8bit monitor.
If you wanted that, you might as well buy the True10 instead. At least you'll have better colour reproduction.
Other than that, get the normal single input (I'ts DVI not HDMI) QNIX that OC's to at least 96hz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yay fixed sorted out what was wrong with my Graphics cards and they are working fine now...very fast indeed..GPU-Z and the AMD R9 290 cards conflict coursing shuddering and rapid frame rate loss....Turn off GPU-Z monitoring and no throttling on heaven 4.0 and 120 FPS benchmark result with heaven 4.0 maxed out at 2560x1440 very happy indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Throttling!..the line in the middle jammed up at the top was the one hour benchmark!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I am glad i upgraded my PSU from my 750w Seasonic to a Corsair RM1000w...Also i bought one those plugs that measure wattage being drawn from the wall!...ruining heaven 4.0...And with 2x R9 290 cards ruining in crossfire and not overclocked it was mostly pulling around around 680 -700 watts and peaked at 756.9 watts!....i could not be more happier with these cards and and my system set up!.. I can now further enjoy my Qnix while gaming at 2560x1440 at 120hz with Ultra Quality settings turned on!


This greatly interests me - 750w was being pulled through your system. GOD DAYME. Not sure how to feel about that, if I ever get my 2nd GTX680....I MIGHT have to upgrade too...which again is something I don't really want to do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Yessir -- Thanks for asking. Trying to take care of family and tech is a tough balance -- Bwahahhaha!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As of right now, I am sticking with my Qnix. Even with the glass, I have been playing games tonight and I LOVE IT. I just wish I could tell if it was matte or glossy behind the glass without tearing it apart..


Glad to hear your son is ok - and LOL about the spyware.
Get yourself ESET smart security and Malbytes anti-malware pro. Best two things I've gotten for my PC (software wise) - period.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Hmm. Think I might wait in the hope they release single input TRUE10. My 22" Sammy still has some life in it.


Don't know if that will ever come out really.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karamel*
> 
> Hi all! I got a problem with my X-Star DP2710.
> 
> It looks like my monitor is capable to do 120hz without artifacts or green horizontal lines. However, top-right of screen becomes darker and dark columns appear when I increase my refresh rate. It is most obvious at dark green or gray colors. This is picture at 120hz:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone here also suffer from this issue? Can tape mod fix it?


I would THINK the tape mod would help - looks like glare/bleeding. Does it happen on all colours? Especially black?
*EDIT: Lawson nailed it.*


----------



## Optimus1978

I'm really chomping at the bit to order, now I know to get a straight forward QX2710, not a True 10.

I've messaged both ExcellentCastle, ta-korea.global - but not sure I can await replys, any you've all ordered before, so its:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/171236516279?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item27de7de1b7

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831

Who would you go with?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> I'm really chomping at the bit to order, now I know to get a straight forward QX2710, not a True 10.
> 
> I've messaged both ExcellentCastle, ta-korea.global - but not sure I can await replys, any you've all ordered before, so its:-
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/171236516279?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item27de7de1b7
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831
> 
> Who would you go with?


Excellent guarantees no dead pixels.
ta - can't guarantee it, but if they get back to you MAYBE they will guarantee it for you.

For this, you pay the premium £20 extra for the no dead pixel policy. I would pay it and thus go excellent castle.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> This greatly interests me - 750w was being pulled through your system. GOD DAYME. Not sure how to feel about that, if I ever get my 2nd GTX680....I MIGHT have to upgrade too...which again is something I don't really want to do[/B]


Buy one of these watt usage plugs Dubbed then you know know for sure...see what wattage is being pulled now and you will know for sure if you need to upgrade your PSU!...it was only 12 Quid from ebay link below!

Edit- :This power meter plug can measure up to 3.7 KW!... which i think is pretty impressive!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220940130975?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Buy one of these watt usage plugs Dubbed then you know know for sure...see what wattage is being pulled now and you will know for sure if you need to upgrade your PSU!...it was only 12 Quid from ebay link below!
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220940130975?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


well worth it!
Going to buy that just for the sake of it, as it's a useful thing to have!

+rep.

You're going to have to start posting "crap" posts for me not to rep every single post you do!









"Thanks for your purchase.
You'll receive an email confirmation shortly.

View order detailsView order details"


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> well worth it!
> Going to buy that just for the sake of it, as it's a useful thing to have!
> 
> +rep.
> 
> You're going to have to start posting "crap" posts for me not to rep every single post you do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Thanks for your purchase.
> You'll receive an email confirmation shortly.
> 
> View order detailsView order details"


Yep for 12 Quid you cant go wrong with this and you can measure almost any appliance with this including your Kettle with its 3.7 KW limit!


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Don't know if that will ever come out really.


I can wait







ive emailed a few sellers seeing if they know anything. If these AHVA panels are becoming the standard then im sure some company will want to cash in on that true 120hz overclockability market.


----------



## karamel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No tape cant fix this it is screen uniformity from over clocking the monitor...some have it worse than others!...you can greatly reduce it by using optimized timings for you 120hz profile and sometimes even a cable change or a DVI-D port change can even reduce it even further!...However all i would recommend you do right now is to use my timings in the picture below for your 120hz profile!...don't apply these timings for your 96hz profile leave them at Auto....Also you are more than welcome to use my ICC profiles posted below which will completely correct the higher gamma shift ( darker screen ) seen when over clocking the monitor!.. i calibrated these ICC profiles at a brightness of 200 cd/m...which from a dark screen is about 18 clicks up in the BRI+ button and 17 clicks up for the 96hz profile ...these will also help with your overclocked screen uniformity!....i also recommended using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


I did all your said but didn't work. I am still getting those ugly dark columns at right top my screen.









I don't think the issue is cable (It usually makes different problems). It seems more like panel or led lightning itself which means I cannot do anything.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep for 12 Quid you cant go wrong with this and you can measure almost any appliance with this including your Kettle with its 3.7 KW limit!


yeah man! Bought it within 10 seconds after you posted it LOL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> I can wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ive emailed a few sellers seeing if they know anything. If these AHVA panels are becoming the standard then im sure some company will want to cash in on that true 120hz overclockability market.


well 22" is your problem really. I did look into it, but 27" > 22" when it comes to 1440p


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> well 22" is your problem really. I did look into it, but 27" > 22" when it comes to 1440p


who said anything about 22"? im after a 27" monitor


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karamel*
> 
> I did all your said but didn't work. I am still getting those ugly dark columns at right top my screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think the issue is cable (It usually makes different problems). It seems more like panel or led lightning itself which means I cannot do anything.


Sorry but as i said we all get it to some degree once the monitor is overclocked...if you take it back to 60hz you will find it has gone!..of course this is not what you want to do but it will show you that its not BLB or anything other than the normal screen uniformity we all see at ruining at higher hertz...yes you have it slightly worse than others but i have seen worse than yours!...Also it generally looks worse on a solid blue or green background but in general usage you will not notice it...so take that solid green screen down enjoy your Qnix i bet you wont really notice it


----------



## lawson67

Just sat on the desktop on the net my PC only pulls between 120 - 130 watts...that pretty impressive i think and with implementation of such things such as UPLS technology thing can only get better!


----------



## yasamoka

ULPS should already be working for you unless you have disabled it.

The second card should now be turned off and the first card would turn off when it no longer outputs a signal to the monitor and is not engaged with any workload.


----------



## DBCoopa

Could someone help me with this decision?

I am thinking about ordering a second 27inch screen or bigger to use as a tv and watch movies on and if it's possible, overclock it a bit and maybe use for gaming in the future.

It will need atleast 1 HDMI port, since i'm going to connect my chromecast/decoder on it and I will connect my r9 290 tri-x on it.

And 21:9 would be a plus!

What screen would give me the best bang for buck?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> ULPS should already be working for you unless you have disabled it.
> 
> The second card should now be turned off and the first card would turn off when it no longer outputs a signal to the monitor and is not engaged with any workload.


Yes i have it turned on...when i first installed these cards i though the second card was duff as when not gaming it turns off!....i am really impressed with that feature i want to leave on...Also i do not intend overclocking these cards the standard power color and Gigabyte overclocks are fine for me...i have more than enough GPU horse power than i need now!


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Excellent guarantees no dead pixels.
> ta - can't guarantee it, but if they get back to you MAYBE they will guarantee it for you.
> 
> For this, you pay the premium £20 extra for the no dead pixel policy. I would pay it and thus go excellent castle.


Couple of questions:-

What should I ask for in my order for the best deal - send as a gift?

Also, tracking is extra, do you normally send as a separate paypal payment?


----------



## Jayster

Yet another question from me,
Has anybody else not had all the pads that push against the back of the monitor? Mine is missing a few although I have no dark/light spots with just average bleed around the edge.


----------



## Darkshowdo

So im asking this for my friend, He recently got a Qnix but when he tried to OC to 96hz he getting scan lines.

We then tried a new cable but still getting scan lines at 96hz?
and idea what may be causing this issue?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> So im asking this for my friend, He recently got a Qnix but when he tried to OC to 96hz he getting scan lines.
> 
> We then tried a new cable but still getting scan lines at 96hz?
> and idea what may be causing this issue?


Was the cable thicker? It just might not be rated for the higher refresh rate.


----------



## Darkshowdo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Was the cable thicker? It just might not be rated for the higher refresh rate.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That the cable he got,

The issue is my qnix im using the stock cable and i get 96hz perfect no scanlines.


----------



## anthonyg45157

My xstar should be here wednesday!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Couple of questions:-
> 
> What should I ask for in my order for the best deal - send as a gift?
> 
> Also, tracking is extra, do you normally send as a separate paypal payment?


Send as gift + lowered value.
As even if it is a gift - say of £1000. Then customs will STILL charge you as a gift, OR they might suspect it isn't an actual gift.
So a lower value is advised too.

I never asked for tracking - mine was a given via Red-Cap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> That the cable he got,
> 
> The issue is my qnix im using the stock cable and i get 96hz perfect no scanlines.


Might just be unlucky and not OC...Has he tried 75hz?
Also is his the same as yours? Single input?


----------



## digitalforce

Wow, another super fast thread count.. I can't keep up









I made up my mind and I am definitely keeping the Qnix Glossy/Glass. As some mentioned here, the Overlord is fantastic but it is a MUCH bigger cost for not much improvement.


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Wow, another super fast thread count.. I can't keep up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made up my mind and I am definitely keeping the Qnix Glossy/Glass. As some mentioned here, the Overlord is fantastic but it is a MUCH bigger cost for not much improvement.


Did you have dead pixels and how was the BLB on the true10
Thanks


----------



## Strickt

Hey guys, I've been running 120hz for about a month now. Since Skyrim cant be played at 120hz I wanted to go back down to 60hz. Turns out I'm artifacting at 60hz and not 120hz... can someone help me with this? What are good 60hz timings?

EDIT: I went into CRU and reset everything (I no longer use that program) and then went into Nvidia control panel and my native 2560x1440 60hz rez came back. That one seems to be stable. Strange how it was missing.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been running 120hz for about a month now. Since Skyrim cant be played at 120hz I wanted to go back down to 60hz. Turns out I'm artifacting at 60hz and not 120hz... can someone help me with this? What are good 60hz timings?
> 
> EDIT: I went into CRU and reset everything (I no longer use that program) and then went into Nvidia control panel and my native 2560x1440 60hz rez came back. That one seems to be stable. Strange how it was missing.


Go to CRU and hit Delete in the top right hand corner!...then go to the CRU zip file and find the reset-all.exe and run it reboot and you will be fine


----------



## Darkshowdo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Might just be unlucky and not OC...Has he tried 75hz?
> Also is his the same as yours? Single input?


Could be unlucky, and yes it exactly the same as mine. The only difference i had notice is that His Qnix Logo is different then mine.

But Still his is single input.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> Could be unlucky, and yes it exactly the same as mine. The only difference i had notice is that His Qnix Logo is different then mine.
> 
> But Still his is single input.


interesting - not sure buddy :/


----------



## Darkshowdo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> interesting - not sure buddy :/


Think it would be crossfire being the issue?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> Think it would be crossfire being the issue?


Oh could be - did he put the patch and/or try without crossfire?
As linked before - someone had issues with DUAL screen QNIX not OC'ing over 60hz.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshowdo*
> 
> Think it would be crossfire being the issue?


Your monitor is fine, if you are close together you can try switch monitors to test.


----------



## Forceman

Does anyone know if the Monoprice Vesa mount will work with the 27" XStar/Qnix? It says 10-23" in the description.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
Quote:


> Adjustable Tilting SINGLE Desk Mount Bracket for LCD LED (Max 33Lbs, 10~23inch) - Black


----------



## Naxxy

Update on Perfect Pixel QNIX bought from ta-korea.global:

i played with it all day installed CRU and Color Sustainer and tested out some of you guys color profiles.

The most i can reach with no artifacts on screen is 108hz so i clocked at 105 for now and im using Laswon67 (thanks for the profile) 96hz colour profile and its looks perfect. Here are some pics:









I tested it out with the stock DVI cable and i ordered a PureLink PureInstall Premium Gold Plated DV Cable, when i get it ill try and see if i can reach 120hz

The only really crappy thing about this monitor is the stand, never seen something so bad lol.......im going to do some further research on monitor stands and order a new one.

Except the stand i'm very satisfied


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Monoprice Vesa mount will work with the 27" XStar/Qnix? It says 10-23" in the description.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2


Read the first review about it on the site.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Monoprice Vesa mount will work with the 27" XStar/Qnix? It says 10-23" in the description.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2


Yes i have it fits fine apart from it has massive feet!...i used the base from another monitors stand i had laying around!..


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*


What's with that orange glow on the screen ?

Is this some weird combination of bleeding or is that just a reflection ?

Also, what's up with the left side ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Monoprice Vesa mount will work with the 27" XStar/Qnix? It says 10-23" in the description.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i have it fits fine apart from it has massive feet!...i used the base from another monitors stand i had laying around!..


I was just about to say - lawson already has it - and remember stating it has big feet and big socks...and big....pixels.
But sure enough, the man himself replies


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I was just about to say - lawson already has it - and remember stating it has big feet and big socks...and big....pixels.
> But sure enough, the man himself replies


When I checked MP for stands and looked at this one, I was floored the very first review is from someone who used it on his 27" Korean.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i have it fits fine apart from it has massive feet!...i used the base from another monitors stand i had laying around!..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks - I remember seeing your post earlier now that you mention it. This thread moves too fast sometimes.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> What's with that orange glow on the screen ?
> 
> Is this some weird combination of bleeding or is that just a reflection ?
> 
> Also, what's up with the left side ?


Just a reflection the other side is fine dont know but in picture doesnt look to good


----------



## MingoDynasty

Help, I think my Qnix is dead! So I came back today and turned on my Qnix and nothing was displayed on the screen. I was just using it an hour ago and it was working fine. I thought maybe the computer froze so I rebooted it but still no display. I switched monitors using the same DVI cable and the other monitor worked fine. I thought maybe the 120hz oc was too much, so I deleted all of the CRU profiles, which should make the monitor start up in default 60hz mode, but still no display...

1. Windows does not detect the monitor (plays the sound when you plug a device in, like a monitor). But it does detect the monitor if plug in the DVI cable while the Qnix power is unplugged. Even though it is detected, there is nothing displayed on the screen.

2. If the power is plugged in, and I plug in the DVI cable then Windows does not detect the monitor at all.

3. Update: after repetitively replugging in the power, it seems like the monitor does not get power anymore... (red LED does not light up).

What can I do?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> Help, I think my Qnix is dead! So I came back today and turned on my Qnix and nothing was displayed on the screen. I was just using it an hour ago and it was working fine. I thought maybe the computer froze so I rebooted it but still no display. I switched monitors using the same DVI cable and the other monitor worked fine. I thought maybe the 120hz oc was too much, so I deleted all of the CRU profiles, which should make the monitor start up in default 60hz mode, but still no display...
> 
> 1. Windows does not detect the monitor (plays the sound when you plug a device in, like a monitor). But it does detect the monitor if plug in the DVI cable while the Qnix power is unplugged. Even though it is detected, there is nothing displayed on the screen.
> 
> 2. If the power is plugged in, and I plug in the DVI cable then Windows does not detect the monitor at all.
> 
> 3. Update: after repetitively replugging in the power, it seems like the monitor does not get power anymore... (red LED does not light up).
> 
> What can I do?


Tried a different power cable? (fuse related maybe?)


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Considering buying a Korean monitor, have a few questions though.

Does brand matter? Other than the bezel and warranty, they are all the same panels, no? So that would mean same OC chance, same quality, etc, correct?

I ask because I found a Monex monitor for $310, this is the pixel perfect version also. The closest Qnix was $330 for the pixel perfect. The only differences I can tell are the bezel and stand. The panels are the same as far as I can tell.

Lastly, does the monitor's mainboard affect OC'ing? And do the different manufacturers use different mainboards? Thanks for any info.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Considering buying a Korean monitor, have a few questions though.
> 
> Does brand matter? Other than the bezel and warranty, they are all the same panels, no? So that would mean same OC chance, same quality, etc, correct?
> 
> I ask because I found a Monex monitor for $310, this is the pixel perfect version also. The closest Qnix was $330 for the pixel perfect. The only differences I can tell are the bezel and stand. The panels are the same as far as I can tell.
> 
> Lastly, does the monitor's mainboard affect OC'ing? And do the different manufacturers use different mainboards? Thanks for any info.


The Qnix and X-Star are the same, the Monex, does not overclock. I ordered a perfect pixel from storewithstory, they accepted my $325 offer. Its a PP model, still waiting for it to ship.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Cool, thanks. +rep.


----------



## Watagump

I should also mention, when I did my best offer thingy, I started at $320. Consider it haggling without the face to face.


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Tried a different power cable? (fuse related maybe?)


I took the monitor apart and I think I have narrowed down the problem to the pcb (not the pcb on the screen itself). It seems to be incredibly finicky in order to power the pcb up. The audio does not work either, which leads me to think the pcb is the problem.

When the pcb does power up and turn on, the audio only plays for 1-2 seconds then cuts out, and then the power led turns into blinking blue. Pressing the power button to turn it off, then pressing the power button to turn it back on will repeat that scenario (audio plays for 1-2 seconds before cutting out).

Well tl;dr I guess my monitor is dead and I'll have to spend $350 on another Qnix








Next time I'll get the 3 year warranty...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Considering buying a Korean monitor, have a few questions though.
> 
> Does brand matter? Other than the bezel and warranty, they are all the same panels, no? So that would mean same OC chance, same quality, etc, correct?
> 
> I ask because I found a Monex monitor for $310, this is the pixel perfect version also. The closest Qnix was $330 for the pixel perfect. The only differences I can tell are the bezel and stand. The panels are the same as far as I can tell.
> 
> Lastly, does the monitor's mainboard affect OC'ing? And do the different manufacturers use different mainboards? Thanks for any info.


Yes the PCB/mainboard has a major effect the Single input (DVI-D) are the only reliable OC boards right now in a PLS panel for $300-$350. QNIX and X-Star are identical and the Monex is not overclockable as watagump stated above ...

As of today these are the 2 cheapest sources available with stock ...

1) $299 - [Tempered Glass] X-STAR DP2710LED 27" 2560x1440 Samsung PLS Panel
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tempered-Glass-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/321226150944?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4aca921420

2) $325 -[Matte] FREE EXPRESS X-STAR DP2710LED 27" 2560x1440 Samsung PLS Panel Monitor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

Or you could bid on this one ... starting @ $299.98
New "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" Qnix 27" QX2710 Evolution II Slim 2560x1440 Monitor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321351216926?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

As far as Pixel Perfect goes ... I'm from the SpartanF8/menacingtuba school of thought ... search their posts on PP








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> I took the monitor apart and I think I have narrowed down the problem to the pcb (not the pcb on the screen itself). It seems to be incredibly finicky in order to power the pcb up. The audio does not work either, which leads me to think the pcb is the problem.
> 
> When the pcb does power up and turn on, the audio only plays for 1-2 seconds then cuts out, and then the power led turns into blinking blue. Pressing the power button to turn it off, then pressing the power button to turn it back on will repeat that scenario (audio plays for 1-2 seconds before cutting out).
> 
> Well tl;dr I guess my monitor is dead and I'll have to spend $350 on another Qnix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I'll get the 3 year warranty...


1st try contacting your supplier and have them send you a new PCB board, probably for free, and replace it ...
Also maybe your power brick is going bad, although when they fail they usually completely fail


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Wow, another super fast thread count.. I can't keep up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made up my mind and I am definitely keeping the Qnix Glossy/Glass. As some mentioned here, the Overlord is fantastic but it is a MUCH bigger cost for not much improvement.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Did you have dead pixels and how was the BLB on the true10
> Thanks


No issues at all on the True10. Like I said, I have three EXCELLENT monitors here so I am getting very picky (True10 vs Overlord vs Qnix glass) -- The True10 doesn't overclock properly though. Otherwise, it's an amazing monitor.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> I took the monitor apart and I think I have narrowed down the problem to the pcb (not the pcb on the screen itself). It seems to be incredibly finicky in order to power the pcb up. The audio does not work either, which leads me to think the pcb is the problem.
> 
> When the pcb does power up and turn on, the audio only plays for 1-2 seconds then cuts out, and then the power led turns into blinking blue. Pressing the power button to turn it off, then pressing the power button to turn it back on will repeat that scenario (audio plays for 1-2 seconds before cutting out).
> 
> Well tl;dr I guess my monitor is dead and I'll have to spend $350 on another Qnix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I'll get the 3 year warranty...


Is it within a year? Can't you return it?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> I took the monitor apart and I think I have narrowed down the problem to the pcb (not the pcb on the screen itself). It seems to be incredibly finicky in order to power the pcb up. The audio does not work either, which leads me to think the pcb is the problem.
> 
> When the pcb does power up and turn on, the audio only plays for 1-2 seconds then cuts out, and then the power led turns into blinking blue. Pressing the power button to turn it off, then pressing the power button to turn it back on will repeat that scenario (audio plays for 1-2 seconds before cutting out).
> 
> Well tl;dr I guess my monitor is dead and I'll have to spend $350 on another Qnix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I'll get the 3 year warranty...


The blinking blue light means its powered on but is not getting a signal..
Try this will you its a long shot but it might work.....go into windows in your other monitor!...find CRU hit delete top right hand corner...now find the CRU zip file in there is a file called reset-all.exe...run it and try your Qnix monitor again...i am thinking if you just deleted the resolutions in CRU but did not run the reset-all.exe ...you left behind the EDID overrides for those deleted resolutions..if you have a hardware problem this wont help however if you did not delete the EDID overrides and onlty the resolutions in CRU this can sometimes result in the monitor not being seen in windows...it worth a shot try it!


----------



## MingoDynasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Is it within a year? Can't you return it?


I got it 8 months ago from ipsledmonitors, but I sent them an email to see what they can do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Edit: scratch that i just read it there's no power?...the blinking blue light means its powered on but is not getting a signal..
> Try this will you its a long shot but it might work.....go into windows in your other monitor!...find CRU hit delete top right hand corner...now find the CRU zip file in there is a file called reset-all.exe...run it and try your Qnix monitor again.


I tried deleting the CRU profiles (I mentioned in my first series of posts) but I did not try the reset all exe. But regardless, I tried it on a different PC that has never touched a Qnix before, and nothing changed.


----------



## lightsout

Whats up guys its been a while. Sold my 780 which was very easy to get my qnix to 120hz.

Any guidance on doing so with crossfire r9 270's? I read the op but thought I'd ask. I can not put multiple bridges like it says as I only have one finger on the cards.

Do I need cru or can I just do it through CCC. Away from my pc going to attempt it later.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> I got it 8 months ago from ipsledmonitors, but I sent them an email to see what they can do.
> I tried deleting the CRU profiles (I mentioned in my first series of posts) but I did not try the reset all exe. But regardless, I tried it on a different PC that has never touched a Qnix before, and nothing changed.


By LAW (as they're a US company) They should replace it.
So have no fear dude







!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Whats up guys its been a while. Sold my 780 which was very easy to get my qnix to 120hz.
> 
> Any guidance on doing so with crossfire r9 270's? I read the op but thought I'd ask. I can not put multiple bridges like it says as I only have one finger on the cards.
> 
> Do I need cru or can I just do it through CCC. Away from my pc going to attempt it later.


No idea about the questions, but you sold a 780 for two mid-range 270s? Why on earth did you do that lol?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Whats up guys its been a while. Sold my 780 which was very easy to get my qnix to 120hz.
> 
> Any guidance on doing so with crossfire r9 270's? I read the op but thought I'd ask. I can not put multiple bridges like it says as I only have one finger on the cards.
> 
> Do I need cru or can I just do it through CCC. Away from my pc going to attempt it later.


You will need CRU for AMD and grab the ATI patch...also if you want go for 120hz you can can use my timings below which should help lower your pixel clock and give you a better signal for your 120hz resolution!...Also below are my ICC profiles and you are more than welcome to use them!...i calibrated them at a brightness of 200 cd/m which for 120hz is 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen and 17 clicks up for 96hz...i have just moved from a Nvidia card to AMD with 2x R9 290 cards also and my monitor overclocks just the same as always a solid 120hz!



Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MingoDynasty*
> 
> I got it 8 months ago from ipsledmonitors, but I sent them an email to see what they can do.
> I tried deleting the CRU profiles (I mentioned in my first series of posts) but I did not try the reset all exe. But regardless, I tried it on a different PC that has never touched a Qnix before, and nothing changed.


Sorry to hear that mate!.. however i think the seller will send you another PCB board for free if you have had it less than a year and he believes the problem is with the PCB Board...get hold of the seller!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Whats up guys its been a while. Sold my 780 which was very easy to get my qnix to 120hz.
> 
> Any guidance on doing so with crossfire r9 270's? I read the op but thought I'd ask. I can not put multiple bridges like it says as I only have one finger on the cards.
> 
> Do I need cru or can I just do it through CCC. Away from my pc going to attempt it later.
> 
> 
> 
> You will need CRU for AMD and grab the ATI patch...also if you want go for 120hz you can can use my timings below which should help lower your pixel clock and give you a better signal for your 120hz resolution!...Also below are my ICC profiles and you are more than welcome to use them!...i calibrated them at a brightness of 200 cd/m which for 120hz is 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen and 17 clicks up for 96hz...i have just moved from a Nvidia card to AMD with 2x R9 290 cards also and my monitor overclocks just the same as always a solid 120hz!
> 
> 
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file
Click to expand...

Thanks man figured I would get a smart comment like search the thread. Running at 110hz but stupid bf4 wouldn't go full screen, when I set it in the options it went black and I could not control the game. Ctrl alt del try again,


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> By LAW (as they're a US company) They should replace it.
> So have no fear dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> No idea about the questions, but you sold a 780 for two mid-range 270s? Why on earth did you do that lol?


Dubbed you have a PM


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Thanks man figured I would get a smart comment like search the thread. Running at 110hz but stupid bf4 wouldn't go full screen, when I set it in the options it went black and I could not control the game. Ctrl alt del try again,


No mate i am not into making people search 1576 pages when it only take 2 mins to write down...some people get off on doing that kinda thing but not me mate!

And we are mostly a nice bunch in here


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No mate i am not into making people search 1576 pages when it only take 2 mins to write down...some people get off on doing that kinda thing but not me mate!
> 
> And we are mostly a nice bunch in here


That's how it should be, at least for this thread anyways.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

As the QNIX multi input 10 bit would be my choice if I wanted 60hz PC gaming.

I realistically wanted a 60hz 1080P HDMI for the console & 96hz 1440p for the PC.
Thought that was going to be possible, but apparently not. So yes and no thanks!


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As the QNIX multi input 10 bit would be my choice if I wanted 60hz PC gaming.


Even with the extra and noticeable input lag ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Even with the extra and noticeable input lag ?


hmm debatable.
How do we know it has input lag?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> hmm debatable.
> How do we know it has input lag?


Digitalforce responded in the past two days saying there was more input lag, and it was noticeable. Someone else said it was an entire frame more (I don't remember who said it).

Digitalforce said he'll do a proper input lag test very soon.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Almost all of the multi-input 1440p monitors tested properly (SMT Tool or Oscilloscope) have 1-2 frames of input lag.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Digitalforce responded in the past two days saying there was more input lag, and it was noticeable. Someone else said it was an entire frame more (I don't remember who said it).
> 
> Digitalforce said he'll do a proper input lag test very soon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Almost all of the multi-input 1440p monitors tested properly (SMT Tool or Oscilloscope) have 1-2 frames of input lag.


Thus the Crossover has input lag too - correct assumption? (It was mentioned in the reviews linked)
SO, when you compare the QNIX 10bit 60hz 1440p multiple inpute VS the crossover model - you're gaining better colour reproduction at a $50-100 cheaper price. Other than that, everything else is the supposedly similar. Correct?

If so, then I stand behind my: "If I wanted 60hz gaming, I would choose the QNIX 10bit"
I have no idea if my LG IPS24V has input lag or not (due to it being multiple input too) - but all I can say is, I don't notice anything and absolutely dominate in BF4 (where input lag would be a problem).

Long story short:
I'm saying if I had to stay on 60hz, I would choose the QNIX - although arguably if I wanted the Xbox to work without problems then I would choose the crossover.
Trade off really:
Colours + gamma vs Xbox360 1080P input (rather than 720p or 1080i ont he QNIX).

What I'm choosing to do, as I game a heck of a lot on the Xbox and even thinking of buying a new gen console, as it will be portable if I get a job that needs moving around is the following:
Get the best OC'able monitor for home - thus a PC gaming monitor.
Then buy a 42-50" LED TV for the house (where my mum would appreciate it as well vs our little 26" LCD TV) - thus for my Fifa wants and needs, I'll be more than happy on the "big screen". Anyway, my Xbox membership runs out in May - and I don't see myself renewing it and thus retiring my Xbox360 for a PS4 (possibly).

Then "on the go" I'll take the next gen console I choose to play anywhere I want (ie hotel rooms etc).


----------



## JohnnyTitanfall

Hi all, I have been lurking on these forums for quite awhile now as I built my first PC. I was hoping someone could take the time to help me now. I hope this is the right place to ask, if not I'll make a new topic.

I got a Qnix monitor about three weeks ago and it is excellent when it works. However, recently it has been having the test pattern problem (this is what it looks like: 



 ). The first couple of times all I had to do was screw the cable into the monitor and PC tight and it would start showing my desktop again. This time, though, I'm afraid it is permanently stuck this way. No matter what cable I try, or how hard I screw them into the monitor and tower, it remains in this looping pattern.

I can plug my tower into my 1080p HDTV and it runs everything fine, so I know it's not my gpu (780ti). I have tried every troubleshooting tactic I can think of and cannot get my picture to return! George is getting upset.

I noticed that inside one of the slots (slot 4, I believe? Bottom row, 4th from the right) on the DVI-D port in the monitor that the pins seem to be meeting in the middle as opposed to being at separate corners like in the rest of the slots. I don't know if this little imperfection could mess with the signal to my monitor or not. It's just a thought. I've used a needle to try and get them back to their normal positions but they aren't really wanting to move, they just flick back to the middle.

I know this problem has occurred to others but I never seem to see a resolution to any of them. I'm just wondering if anyone has any ideas/solutions.

To sum it up:
-My monitor is stuck on the "Flashing Test Pattern" screen when plugged into the computer and the computer is powered on.
-I have tried two different DVI-D Dual link cables to no avail
-I have tried using HDMI to hook up my computer to an HDTV just to test the GPU and it works flawlessly. I do not have another DVI-D monitor to test my gpu's DVI-D slot with
-There may be two bent pins in one slot of the monitor's Dvi-D input (NOT the cable, the monitor itself). Though I have no way of confirming if this is even an issue

Thank you and enjoy your 1440p as I have!


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Thus the Crossover has input lag too - correct assumption? (It was mentioned in the reviews linked)
> SO, when you compare the QNIX 10bit 60hz 1440p multiple inpute VS the crossover model - you're gaining better colour reproduction at a $50-100 cheaper price. Other than that, everything else is the supposedly similar. Correct?
> 
> If so, then I stand behind my: "If I wanted 60hz gaming, I would choose the QNIX 10bit"
> I have no idea if my LG IPS24V has input lag or not (due to it being multiple input too) - but all I can say is, I don't notice anything and absolutely dominate in BF4 (where input lag would be a problem).
> 
> Long story short:
> I'm saying if I had to stay on 60hz, I would choose the QNIX - although arguably if I wanted the Xbox to work without problems then I would choose the crossover.
> Trade off really:
> Colours + gamma vs Xbox360 1080P input (rather than 720p or 1080i ont he QNIX).
> 
> What I'm choosing to do, as I game a heck of a lot on the Xbox and even thinking of buying a new gen console, as it will be portable if I get a job that needs moving around is the following:
> Get the best OC'able monitor for home - thus a PC gaming monitor.
> Then buy a 42-50" LED TV for the house (where my mum would appreciate it as well vs our little 26" LCD TV) - thus for my Fifa wants and needs, I'll be more than happy on the "big screen". Anyway, my Xbox membership runs out in May - and I don't see myself renewing it and thus retiring my Xbox360 for a PS4 (possibly).
> 
> Then "on the go" I'll take the next gen console I choose to play anywhere I want (ie hotel rooms etc).


I wasn't doubting your choice, I was just thinking that if the picky/quality fanatics in this thread are okay with it, then I likely will be too. I've never used anything more advanced than a TN LCD for my PC, so I'm worried about the whole input lag concept.

That's my logic for worrying.

Anyways, I'm almost certain I'm getting the 10bit Qnix as well. I'm just worried about the extra input lag.

I didn't know if the extra amount you see on multi-input displays crosses a threshold that's unacceptable, or if it's just unacceptable when there are single input displays with half a frame to one full frame less (concerning input lag) available for basically the same price, or near the same price.

And of course all of this is relative to the individual, but I think most of us share common requirements for what we want when compared to others. Meaning, the average person just looks at the price and size of a display, but we're significantly more picky.

I'm asking every question I want to regardless of how silly it sounds as I really don't want to read through this entire thread and we have people active and actually responding.

Edit - I was also lead to believe that these single-input displays are the only ones of their kind and no other 27" 1440p IPS LED displays have less than 2 frames of input lag, but this was early on when I was introduced to these.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Thus the Crossover has input lag too - correct assumption? (It was mentioned in the reviews linked)


Yes, I made the 2720MDP review.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> SO, when you compare the QNIX 10bit 60hz 1440p multiple inpute VS the crossover model - you're gaining better colour reproduction at a $50-100 cheaper price. Other than that, everything else is the supposedly similar. Correct?


The Qnix DPMulti is an 8bit+FRC AHVA panel just like the BenQ BL2710PT (which I, TFT Central, =DEAD=, PC Monitors and PRAD have all reviewed)) which offers absolutely no advantages over a regular 8 bit monitor. The 2720MDP is also supposed to be 8 bit+FRC (10 bit).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I have no idea if my LG IPS24V has input lag or not.


All of the 23" 1080p IPS which have been properly tested except for the high end NEC P232W are delay free. Usually only higher end 1920x1200 and 1440-1600p monitors with multiple inputs have 1-2 frames of input lag. The Asus VG278HE and Samsung S27A950D are examples of exceptions since both have 1 frame delays @60hz according to PRAD's oscilloscope measurements
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm saying if I had to stay on 60hz, I would choose the QNIX - although arguably if I wanted the Xbox to work without problems then I would choose the crossover.


The 360's Extended reference level (the Xbox One probably has this setting) and in game brightness/gamma settings can mostly compensate for the Crossover's lower gamma. If one wants a matte multi-input 1440p monitor the Qnix DPort or DPMulti might be good choices but I would wait for some colorimeteric tests before recommending them. There is also the multi-input Yamakasi Q270 Jupiter which uses a matte AHVA panel and is quite cheap, but it has not been properly reviewed.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Yes, I made the 2720MDP review.
> The Qnix DPMulti is an 8bit+FRC AHVA panel just like the BenQ BL2710PT (which I, TFT Central, =DEAD=, PC Monitors and PRAD have all reviewed)) which offers absolutely no advantages over a regular 8 bit monitor. The 2720MDP is also supposed to be 8 bit+FRC (10 bit).
> All of the 23" 1080p IPS which have been properly tested except for the high end NEC P232W are delay free. Usually only higher end 1920x1200 and 1440-1600p monitors with multiple inputs have 1-2 frames of input lag. The Asus VG278HE and Samsung S27A950D are examples of exceptions since both have 1 frame delays @60hz according to PRAD's oscilloscope measurements
> The 360's Extended reference level (the Xbox One probably has this setting) and in game brightness/gamma settings can mostly compensate for the Crossover's lower gamma. If one wants a matte multi-input 1440p monitor the Qnix DPort or DPMulti might be good choices but I would wait for some colorimeteric tests before recommending them. There is also the multi-input Yamakasi Q270 Jupiter which uses a matte AHVA panel and is quite cheap, but it has not been properly reviewed.


+R to you ... Really appreciate your comments and Reviews









Even your sig has useful advice if people would just take the time to read









_Google (insert monitor) review before making a thread about it. Research (Google) before buying a monitor and then asking if it is good.

Multi-Input 2650x1440 Monitors drop frames when overclocked which makes overclocking pointless.

*10 Bit Monitors: 99% are 8 bit+FRC and AMD Quadro or Nvidia Firepro gpu's are required to send+receive a true 10 bit signal. 10 bit consumer content (games, movies TV) does not exist*._


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Go to CRU and hit Delete in the top right hand corner!...then go to the CRU zip file and find the reset-all.exe and run it reboot and you will be fine


That's redundant. Just run reset-all.exe to delete all the overrides. The "Delete" button is for deleting the override for one monitor.


----------



## SeanEboy

Ok, so I finally got around to checking the overclock-ability of my monitor (1/2), and it appears to do 120hz! I did the moving photo, and other test, but I don't have a camera to take a pic with.. If those tests don't register anything but browser studder, does that mean I'm in the clear or not?

Also, since changing to 120hz, the colors darkened a bit, I take it that is normal, and why everyone has the ICC profiles? I've downloaded (2) profiles to try, how do I go about using them?


----------



## Snerp

Well, I have finally made the leap into the club. I picked up a Samsung S27C570H for $200 on my local craigslist yesterday. I thought it would satisfy my monitor craving...all it did was make me want the 1440 120hz more.

I ordered a Perfect Pixel Qnix QX2710 from storewithstory on eBay. They got my business because they'll pay for return shipping. Plus it was only $339.90 shipped. Doesn't get much better than that!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> Well, I have finally made the leap into the club. I picked up a Samsung S27C570H for $200 on my local craigslist yesterday. I thought it would satisfy my monitor craving...all it did was make me want the 1440 120hz more.
> 
> I ordered a Perfect Pixel Qnix QX2710 from storewithstory on eBay. They got my business because they'll pay for return shipping. Plus it was only $339.90 shipped. Doesn't get much better than that!


It gets better, you could of paid $325, like I did.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Ok, so I finally got around to checking the overclock-ability of my monitor (1/2), and it appears to do 120hz! I did the moving photo, and other test, but I don't have a camera to take a pic with.. If those tests don't register anything but browser studder, does that mean I'm in the clear or not?
> 
> Also, since changing to 120hz, the colors darkened a bit, I take it that is normal, and why everyone has the ICC profiles? I've downloaded (2) profiles to try, how do I go about using them?


Correct, overclocking causes the gamma shift and makes colors darker.

Installing ICC profiles.

http://www.redrivercatalog.com/profiles/how_to_install_ICC_color_profiles.html


----------



## bluedevil

My Qnix will be here tomorrow! Too bad I cant wall mount it for a few days.....


----------



## Balsagna

Same here, getting mine tomorrow.









Are the stock cables good enough to overclock to 120hz or should I run to local BestBuy or RadioShack to pick up a Dual link DVI-D cable.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Same here, getting mine tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are the stock cables good enough to overclock to 120hz or should I run to local BestBuy or RadioShack to pick up a Dual link DVI-D cable.


Don't bother with the ones in the box or at CrapShack/WorstBuy. Get this one. No doubt in my mind it will not be my limiting factor in OCing this panel.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I wasn't doubting your choice, I was just thinking that if the picky/quality fanatics in this thread are okay with it, then I likely will be too. I've never used anything more advanced than a TN LCD for my PC, so I'm worried about the whole input lag concept.
> 
> That's my logic for worrying.
> 
> Anyways, I'm almost certain I'm getting the 10bit Qnix as well. I'm just worried about the extra input lag.
> 
> I didn't know if the extra amount you see on multi-input displays crosses a threshold that's unacceptable, or if it's just unacceptable when there are single input displays with half a frame to one full frame less (concerning input lag) available for basically the same price, or near the same price.
> 
> And of course all of this is relative to the individual, but I think most of us share common requirements for what we want when compared to others. Meaning, the average person just looks at the price and size of a display, but we're significantly more picky.
> 
> I'm asking every question I want to regardless of how silly it sounds as I really don't want to read through this entire thread and we have people active and actually responding.
> 
> Edit - I was also lead to believe that these single-input displays are the only ones of their kind and no other 27" 1440p IPS LED displays have less than 2 frames of input lag, but this was early on when I was introduced to these.


Indeed, but why are you getting a multiple input one then?
Why not stick to the single input (lag free) one?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Yes, I made the 2720MDP review.
> The Qnix DPMulti is an 8bit+FRC AHVA panel just like the BenQ BL2710PT (which I, TFT Central, =DEAD=, PC Monitors and PRAD have all reviewed)) which offers absolutely no advantages over a regular 8 bit monitor. The 2720MDP is also supposed to be 8 bit+FRC (10 bit).
> All of the 23" 1080p IPS which have been properly tested except for the high end NEC P232W are delay free. Usually only higher end 1920x1200 and 1440-1600p monitors with multiple inputs have 1-2 frames of input lag. The Asus VG278HE and Samsung S27A950D are examples of exceptions since both have 1 frame delays @60hz according to PRAD's oscilloscope measurements
> The 360's Extended reference level (the Xbox One probably has this setting) and in game brightness/gamma settings can mostly compensate for the Crossover's lower gamma. If one wants a matte multi-input 1440p monitor the Qnix DPort or DPMulti might be good choices but I would wait for some colorimeteric tests before recommending them. There is also the multi-input Yamakasi Q270 Jupiter which uses a matte AHVA panel and is quite cheap, but it has not been properly reviewed.


Nice man +rep.
Yeah the 10bit one isn't actually 10bit as you pointed out a few pages back.
As for the 1080P monitor - happy days. Yeah I've not noticed any problems.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Ok, so I finally got around to checking the overclock-ability of my monitor (1/2), and it appears to do 120hz! I did the moving photo, and other test, but I don't have a camera to take a pic with.. If those tests don't register anything but browser studder, does that mean I'm in the clear or not?
> 
> Also, since changing to 120hz, the colors darkened a bit, I take it that is normal, and why everyone has the ICC profiles? I've downloaded (2) profiles to try, how do I go about using them?


Hey Sean you should get a valid 120hz or 96hz or what ever HZ custom resolution you have loaded in a green bar on that website saying Valid on the UFO page linked below.....Also you will want to make sure your games can see customs resolutions!...you can do this by turning on Vsync in any game and turn the graphics options down to low so that you can hit high FPS....Now if you hit with Vsync turned on anything over 60 Fps and up to a max of 96 fps then your 96hz profile if you indeed have a 96hz profile is working just fine and can be seen in games!.
If you have just made a 120hz custom resolution the same goes for this also...Turn Vsync on in any game and turn the graphics options down to low so that you can hit high FPS!....if you hit anything over 60 fps up to a max of 120fps then your custom resolutions can be seen in games...sorted!

Yes the sreen will appear darker when you run a higher refresh rate as the gamma shifts higher which make the screen appear darker!...you are more then welcome to use my 96hz and 120hz ICC profiles linked below...these will completely correct the higher gamma shift ( darker looking screen) that you are seeing running at higher refresh rates!.....i calibrated theses ICC profiles at a brightness of 200 cd/m which is on the BRI+ button 18 clicks up from a black screen for 120hz and 17 clicks up for the 96hz ICC profile...i also recommended using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below...

Also Sean use my optimised timings below just for your 120hz custom resolution which should lower your pixel clock at 120hz and give you a better signal!.....and enjoy your New monitor Sean











http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Correct, overclocking causes the gamma shift and makes colors darker.
> 
> Installing ICC profiles.
> 
> http://www.redrivercatalog.com/profiles/how_to_install_ICC_color_profiles.html


Avoid using Windows to load ICC color profiles and use a 3rd-party loader. Reasons?

1) AMD cards benefit from a 10-bit LUT (more on that later if you're interested to know) which means they avoid banding with ICC color profiles. Windows loader is 8-bit, throwing out 2 bits AMD cards could use.

2) Windows does not set back your color profile if a game loaded in fullscreen resets the color profile. You need a 3rd-party loader to "lock" color profiles by loading them back whenever they are reset.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Indeed, but why are you getting a multiple input one then?
> Why not stick to the single input (lag free) one?


I won't be buying a new display until a few months from now and I thought the single input displays spoken about here were being discontinued (presumably)


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It gets better, you could of paid $325, like I did.


How did you manage that? I reviewed every seller's return policy and didn't see free return shipping included for cheaper. Every seller had free return for a DOA, but storewithastory had free shipping for the year long warranty.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> How did you manage that? I reviewed every seller's return policy and didn't see free return shipping included for cheaper. Every seller had free return for a DOA, but storewithastory had free shipping for the year long warranty.


They had a best offer option, I offered $320, they came back at $335, I countered at $325, they agreed.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> They had a best offer option, I offered $320, they came back at $335, I countered at $325, they agreed.


So it's your fault they didn't have a best offer option.









Just kidding.

Oh well, $15 isn't going to kill me and the free return shipping/perfect pixel is worth the $340.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> So it's your fault they didn't have a best offer option.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kidding.
> 
> Oh well, $15 isn't going to kill me and the free return shipping/perfect pixel is worth the $340.


It turns out we both could have done even better. They actually sell some you bid on, the final winning bid was $305. There is another up right now, the auctions are short also, I should of tried those first.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It turns out we both could have done even better. They actually sell some you bid on, the final winning bid was $305. There is another up right now, the auctions are short also, I should of tried those first.


I saw that. I just need to get mine here so I can get my $200 back for the other monitor I bought. Since we're coming up on Monday in Korea, I'm more likely to get it sooner than if my order was placed on a Tuesday. That is just the thought process...we'll see how it works out.

I should also note that ta.korea.global or whatever their name is said they would sell me a perfect pixel for $315 last month...After trying to get me to purchase outside of eBay. I called them out and they said put the offer in and they'd accept.

I put the offer in and 48 hours later, it expired. I'd be damned if they were getting my business after that. So, I just wanted to get it ordered...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> I saw that. I just need to get mine here so I can get my $200 back for the other monitor I bought. Since we're coming up on Monday in Korea, I'm more likely to get it sooner than if my order was placed on a Tuesday. That is just the thought process...we'll see how it works out.
> 
> I should also note that ta.korea.global or whatever their name is said they would sell me a perfect pixel for $315 last month...After trying to get me to purchase outside of eBay. I called them out and they said put the offer in and they'd accept.
> 
> I put the offer in and 48 hours later, it expired. I'd be damned if they were getting my business after that. So, I just wanted to get it ordered...


I already have my HP ZR24W sold, the guy who is buying it even asked me last night how come I didn't bring it. Confusion in the communication, but oh well, he will get it after I get my Qnix, assuming I get a good one. Fingers crossed.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey Sean you should get a valid 120hz or 96hz or what ever HZ custom resolution you have loaded in a green bar on that website saying Valid on the UFO page linked below.....Also you will want to make sure your games can see customs resolutions!...you can do this by turning on Vsync in any game and turn the graphics options down to low so that you can hit high FPS....Now if you hit with Vsync turned on anything over 60 Fps and up to a max of 96 fps then your 96hz profile if you indeed have a 96hz profile is working just fine and can be seen in games!.
> If you have just made a 120hz custom resolution the same goes for this also...Turn Vsync on in any game and turn the graphics options down to low so that you can hit high FPS!....if you hit anything over 60 fps up to a max of 120fps then your custom resolutions can be seen in games...sorted!
> 
> Yes the sreen will appear darker when you run a higher refresh rate as the gamma shifts higher which make the screen appear darker!...you are more then welcome to use my 96hz and 120hz ICC profiles linked below...these will completely correct the higher gamma shift ( darker looking screen) that you are seeing running at higher refresh rates!.....i calibrated theses ICC profiles at a brightness of 200 cd/m which is on the BRI+ button 18 clicks up from a black screen for 120hz and 17 clicks up for the 96hz ICC profile...i also recommended using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below...
> 
> Also Sean use my optimised timings below just for your 120hz custom resolution which should lower your pixel clock at 120hz and give you a better signal!.....and enjoy your New monitor Sean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


Thanks as always Lawson! Yes, I did get a green/valid bar on the bottom... So I guess I'm good to go!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Avoid using Windows to load ICC color profiles and use a 3rd-party loader. Reasons?
> 
> 1) AMD cards benefit from a 10-bit LUT (more on that later if you're interested to know) which means they avoid banding with ICC color profiles. Windows loader is 8-bit, throwing out 2 bits AMD cards could use.
> 
> 2) Windows does not set back your color profile if a game loaded in fullscreen resets the color profile. You need a 3rd-party loader to "lock" color profiles by loading them back whenever they are reset.


Thanks for that info.. so, which 3rd party loader do I use? How do I obtain it?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Thanks as always Lawson! Yes, I did get a green/valid bar on the bottom... So I guess I'm good to go!
> Thanks for that info.. so, which 3rd party loader do I use? How do I obtain it?


The tool that Lawson linked you to, of course


----------



## technoir

Some great info guys - always impressed with how much people know on here!









Looking at possibly pulling the trigger on a Multi QX2710 or a True10 atm. Can anyone with one of these mons confirm that they work OK with PS3/Xbox at 1080p?

Edit: Saw the mini-review From Digital force a few days ago where the True10 displayed lines at 1080p with Xbox - hoping this isn't the case with all of them.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> The tool that Lawson linked you to, of course


LOL, but of course!

Annd he associated the ICC Profile.. and IT WAS BRILLIANT!

Thanks for the help guys...

Unrelated... My triple monitor stand comes with bolts that are either too huge, too big, or too small to use the spacers...

See pic of mount with 'smaller' screws, that are still not small enough:


Image of smaller screw in spacer:


And then, this.. After taking apart my Qnix.. I noticed this incredible bend in the frame.. It's quite remarkable.. There's no way I just did that, right? It's the flaw of these monitors, and why they're cheap, right? Tell me I'm right please, and that I didn't just bend this thing...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *technoir*
> 
> Some great info guys - always impressed with how much people know on here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at possibly pulling the trigger on a Multi QX2710 or a True10 atm. Can anyone with one of these mons confirm that they work OK with PS3/Xbox at 1080p?
> 
> Edit: Saw the mini-review From Digital force a few days ago where the True10 displayed lines at 1080p with Xbox - hoping this isn't the case with all of them.


Apparently it doesn't run 1080P properly.


----------



## Optimus1978

Amyone ordered from storewithstory

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321351216926?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad2066f1e

seems very cheep


----------



## malzmidx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Amyone ordered from storewithstory
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321351216926?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad2066f1e
> 
> seems very cheep


That looks like a bidding page. So price is not exact. They look like they are selling a seemingly "PERFECT" version to the highest bidder.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malzmidx*
> 
> That looks like a bidding page. So price is not exact. They look like they are selling a seemingly "PERFECT" version to the highest bidder.


Doh! didn't notice - to be honest I think I'll stick with ExcellentCastle.

Tomorrow is my order date, hopefully get a reply from them overnight


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Amyone ordered from storewithstory
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321351216926?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad2066f1e
> 
> seems very cheep


Yes, both Snerp and I ordered from them, I used the best offer option, they accepted $325. Snerp used the buy it now for $339.90. Mine has not shipped yet.


----------



## Watagump

http://news.yahoo.com/seoul-nkorea-test-fires-18-short-range-rockets-125126674.html

Does this mean our money will help them defeat NK?


----------



## jameyscott

Buy all the monitors!


----------



## Warsteiner

Hey Lawson,
Have you tried 4K with your new video cards? If so what timings are you using. I have not been able to get it to work with my R9 290.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warsteiner*
> 
> Hey Lawson,
> Have you tried 4K with your new video cards? If so what timings are you using. I have not been able to get it to work with my R9 290.


No but i will try it now!...i forgot about my 4K tests on Nvidia...ill post back results!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No but i will try it now!...i forgot about my 4K tests on Nvidia...ill post back results!


Downsampling on AMD is tricky as CRU adds (purely) monitor custom resolutions, unlike Nvidia CP which allows you (in drivers ofc) to render at 4K but only send a 1440p signal to the monitor. On AMD, you will be sending a 4K signal to the monitor. Tried it, was disastrous. You need tools such as DownsamplingGUI and see if those work.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I already have my HP ZR24W sold, the guy who is buying it even asked me last night how come I didn't bring it. Confusion in the communication, but oh well, he will get it after I get my Qnix, assuming I get a good one. Fingers crossed.


I think it's going to be a bit before mine sells. I live in southern Oregon...It's not exactly populated with the upper crust of society. Maybe I should claim Larry the Cable Guy is funnier when watched on my old monitor?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Downsampling on AMD is tricky as CRU adds (purely) monitor custom resolutions, unlike Nvidia CP which allows you (in drivers ofc) to render at 4K but only send a 1440p signal to the monitor. On AMD, you will be sending a 4K signal to the monitor. Tried it, was disastrous. You need tools such as DownsamplingGUI and see if those work.


Yes you are right i have been doing a lot of reading mainly due to the fact i suddenly thought!...hang on a min i cant test this like i could in NVCP!...if it did not work theres no coming back from that black screen without a load of hassle and maybe even a roll back!...and then i just popped back here and seen your post!...Also i have been looking since i have had my new cards to find a solution to use ATI CCC to add custom resolutions in...I think there is a registry hack out there somewhere to enable custom resolutions in CCC!... To me using my monitor driver and enabling custom resolutions in ATI CCC is the way forward! ...As great as CRU is i just don't like using EDID overrides and i don't like the conflicts that are associated with using them and certain software i enjoy using...i will find a solution very soon


----------



## yasamoka

AFAIK CRU is superior to even Nvidia CP in reporting the correct custom resolution and timings. And, it works on AMD.

Not sure how Nvidia CP works with custom resos, if it has a limit of 4 then it also uses EDID overrides in the same way.

I remember the EDID override being defined in Nvidia drivers way before all of this was available. There were 4 EDIDOverrideFlags available until the 256-series drivers when they got dropped I believe. Used to use them to get proper 1080p output on my TV with my GTX260.

No fear of black screens, the monitor just goes crazy but doesn't explode. lol

Oh...and be careful with the pixel clock for goodness sakes. I set refresh rate at ~48Hz to keep the pixel clock down.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> AFAIK CRU is superior to even Nvidia CP in reporting the correct custom resolution and timings. And, it works on AMD.
> 
> Not sure how Nvidia CP works with custom resos, if it has a limit of 4 then it also uses EDID overrides in the same way.
> 
> I remember the EDID override being defined in Nvidia drivers way before all of this was available. There were 4 EDIDOverrideFlags available until the 256-series drivers when they got dropped I believe. Used to use them to get proper 1080p output on my TV with my GTX260.
> 
> No fear of black screens, the monitor just goes crazy but doesn't explode. lol
> 
> Oh...and be careful with the pixel clock for goodness sakes. I set refresh rate at ~48Hz to keep the pixel clock down.


This why i love the monitor driver method so much with NVCP!...Because if you use a monitor driver and then you set your custom resolutions in NVCP you did not need and you have not created an EDID override!...this is why you could still use programs like Samsung Magician and Nvidia Geforce experience without any conflicts!..and this is what i want to try and find a solution to using ATI cards!...i believe i will find a way


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> This why i love the monitor driver method so much with NVCP!...Because if you use a monitor driver and then you set your custom resolutions in NVCP you did not need and you have not created an EDID override!...this is why you could still use programs like Samsung Magician and Nvidia Geforce experience without any conflicts!..and this is what i want to try and find a solution to using ATI cards!...i believe i will find a way


Don't think you will, though









It's a big, mostly unresolved issue, a feature that gets broken and working with newer drivers and the best approach is expecting AMD to provide custom resolutions via CCC...it's long overdue.

If you do find something that works properly with 14.2 Beta, though, why not. I'll try it too







Tried to fiddle once, bah just gave up. Not enough feeeeps (fps) to run most games at 1440p 110Hz. For those that run so well, I just turn off the second GPU and leave a single GPU to dole out all those precious frames


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Don't think you will, though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a big, mostly unresolved issue, a feature that gets broken and working with newer drivers and the best approach is expecting AMD to provide custom resolutions via CC...it's long overdue.
> 
> If you do find something that works properly with 14.2 Beta, though, why not. I'll try it too


Yes i have heard you can do it and i did find some sites with the solution to add custom resolutions to CCC however you are indeed correct as you need to hack the registry every driver update...i will see what i can find out and if i can make it work!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Don't think you will, though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a big, mostly unresolved issue, a feature that gets broken and working with newer drivers and the best approach is expecting AMD to provide custom resolutions via CCC...it's long overdue.
> 
> If you do find something that works properly with 14.2 Beta, though, why not. I'll try it too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to fiddle once, bah just gave up. Not enough feeeeps (fps) to run most games at 1440p 110Hz. For those that run so well, I just turn off the second GPU and leave a single GPU to dole out all those precious frames


Look yasamoka its possible!...i am getting close to the solution











Edit: its possible following this guide below and it works!..however i can not find out how to change the pixel clock timings and i can not add a higher refresh rate of 99!









http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1605511


----------



## technoir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Apparently it doesn't run 1080P properly.


Cheers for that.
Btw, how is the Crossover 27QW/QW DP with 1080p?


----------



## Optimus1978

After a much better reply from TA korean this morning than from ExcellentCastle, I've placed my order with them - let's hope for better luck this time!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chowchilla

Acessorieswhole just got back to me. It seems QNIX have no plans for a single DVI-D TRUE10. Though They do plan to make a DVI-D and HDMI and DVI-D model. Not sure what difference that'll make to overclocking.. If any.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Red cap got back to me, apparently they say a return would cost them $150, which is far beyond what it should be. I'm still refusing the FedEx package if it arrives or letting FedEx deal with the detour


----------



## brialee8

Looks like dream-seller is shipping my monitor this Thursday (when I ordered on the 10th)... Only takes 9 business days to ship lol


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> Looks like dream-seller is shipping my monitor this Thursday (when I ordered on the 10th)... Only takes 9 business days to ship lol


Good Luck - I cancelled my dream-seller order, after 10 days, as they just kept giving me new dates.

Maybe I was just unfortunate.

All the best.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

So, despite telling Fedex, the package seems to still be on its way to me.
This is for the True10 monitor.

I'll be rejecting it, unless someone in the UK wants it?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> So, despite telling Fedex, the package seems to still be on its way to me.
> This is for the True10 monitor.
> 
> I'll be rejecting it, unless someone in the UK wants it?


Are you gonna buy the regular QX2710 model then?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Are you gonna buy the regular QX2710 model then?


Trying to get a straight swap with the seller.
If he refuses I'll just paypal claim it and go with another seller.


----------



## Watagump

Mine has been shipped from storewithstory, since I ordered on Friday, these shipping times are in line. They used DHL, never had something come from DHL.


----------



## killer0014

Because of the many replies, can someone tell me if the QNIX QX2710 Evolutionll DP Multi TRUE10 27" Virtual 4K monitor
is overclockable to 75, 96 or 120Hz ?
regards


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killer0014*
> 
> Because of the many replies, can someone tell me if the QNIX QX2710 Evolutionll DP Multi TRUE10 27" Virtual 4K monitor
> is overclockable to 75, 96 or 120Hz ?
> regards


Yes, then no. It will take the overclock, but skip frames.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Yes, then no. It will take the overclock, but skip frames.


But the regular one doesn't skip frames?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> But the regular one doesn't skip frames?


The monitors with multi inputs are the ones that skip frames. Buy something with just the single DVI connection if you want to overclock.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The monitors with multi inputs are the ones that skip frames. Buy something with just the single DVI connection if you want to overclock.


Which is what is being delivered today.







I knew I was glad I got the old one.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Which is what is being delivered today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew I was glad I got the old one.


No one knew this until a few days ago - when Digital force truly tested them.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Which is what is being delivered today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew I was glad I got the old one.


I wanted a glossy one, but oh well, for the price they want, I just ordered a matte. Once people confirmed the new ones didn't overclock, I ordered, just in case they really stop making them. It is also possible down the line sales drop and they come out with another one for overclocking, but I didn't want to play the waiting game.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Yes, then no. It will take the overclock, but skip frames.


I say that we should keep it simple. If it skips frames, let's just say it doesn't overclock.


----------



## Vesanius

So I finally managed to calibrate my monitor with a third part software (dispcalGUI in my case) and the difference to my old profiles is HUGE. I didn't realize how blueish my whites were before and especially the black levels are superior compared to my old profiles. So I highly recommend anyone with Qnix to give this new profile of mine a go. My Qnix is running @ 96hz and the profile is done to 2.2 gamma, 6.5k whitepoint and with 180cd/cm2 backlight, which in my monitor is 17 clicks from the minimum.

Qnix-96hz-180cdcm2-dispcalGUI.zip 11k .zip file


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I say that we should keep it simple. If it skips frames, let's just say it doesn't overclock.


this.

EDIT:

Wow - I just went to track and then fedex turned up at my door saying: Here's your package.
I was like...I was supposed to reject it. Driver said: Ok - and then just went lol.
He didn't seem pleased for some reason!

PS. took 4 days - the QNIX was not packaged at all - it was just the box and no bubble wrap around it. Ie if I had just bought it off the shelf from a store. That's disappointing - the screen could EASILY get damaged in transit.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> this.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Wow - I just went to track and then fedex turned up at my door saying: Here's your package.
> I was like...I was supposed to reject it. Driver said: Ok - and then just went lol.
> He didn't seem pleased for some reason!
> 
> PS. took 4 days - the QNIX was not packaged at all - it was just the box and no bubble wrap around it. Ie if I had just bought it off the shelf from a store. That's disappointing - the screen could EASILY get damaged in transit.


So he took it back?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So he took it back?


Yeah, he was literally like: "Oh ok then, no idea why they didn't call." He starts walking off and then I ask him: "Where there any customs charges? DO you know how much the seller will be charged?" His reply: "NO idea!" With like a shake on his head...
I mean his the driver I know, but surely he would have to know if there were ANY customs charges as he would be the one needing to declare it to me?
I guess there wasn't any custom charges then?

I was in two minds as I saw the monitor. Problem is if I opened it, didn't like it, have to return it - the problems of sending an open package + arranging delivery would cost me probably over $50 as it is.
So, I think I made the right decision. At least the seller doesn't have to "restock it" - it's unopened.

The seller did tell me the manufacturer did "guarantee it" to work with Xbox.
Sure, but maybe not at 1080P. And that's a deal breaker for me.

I played at 720p and 1080i for a long long period of time. I utterly hated it - until I got my LG monitor. Made a world of difference to me.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yeah, he was literally like: "Oh ok then, no idea why they didn't call." He starts walking off and then I ask him: "Where there any customs charges? DO you know how much the seller will be charged?" His reply: "NO idea!" With like a shake on his head...
> I mean his the driver I know, but surely he would have to know if there were ANY customs charges as he would be the one needing to declare it to me?
> I guess there wasn't any custom charges then?
> 
> I was in two minds as I saw the monitor. Problem is if I opened it, didn't like it, have to return it - the problems of sending an open package + arranging delivery would cost me probably over $50 as it is.
> So, I think I made the right decision. At least the seller doesn't have to "restock it" - it's unopened.
> 
> The seller did tell me the manufacturer did "guarantee it" to work with Xbox.
> Sure, but maybe not at 1080P. And that's a deal breaker for me.
> 
> I played at 720p and 1080i for a long long period of time. I utterly hated it - until I got my LG monitor. Made a world of difference to me.


Lol.. I can't wait to see the look on my wife's face when she accepts the package when I am at work. She is gonna be so pissed. Then I will come home and she will be like "You wanna explain this?". Lol, "Yeah babe, it cost me $23 total", "We're good!".


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Lol.. I can't wait to see the look on my wife's face when she accepts the package when I am at work. She is gonna be so pissed. Then I will come home and she will be like "You wanna explain this?". Lol, "Yeah babe, it cost me $23 total", "We're good!".


Say: "Work paid for it"
Then you'll get: "Why didn't you get me anything then!?"
I can almost bet that haha


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Say: "Work paid for it"
> Then you'll get: "Why didn't you get me anything then!?"
> I can almost bet that haha


She just ordered $155 in decorative stools, I didn't say a word. "strategic maneuver".


----------



## hogofwar

Gonna see what ta.korea says about bright/dark pixel replacement. May get it from them.

Probably gonna buy either the ultimate pixel perfect or ta.korea's perfect pixel with 3 year warranty sometime this week.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> She just ordered $155 in decorative stools, I didn't say a word. "strategic maneuver".


Haha ma man!




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Gonna see what ta.korea says about bright/dark pixel replacement. May get it from them.
> 
> Probably gonna buy either the ultimate pixel perfect or ta.korea's perfect pixel with 3 year warranty sometime this week.


If Red Cap refuse - I'll go via excellentcastle - or any ultimate pixel + 3 yr square trade.


----------



## malzmidx

I ordered a qnix evo ii and apparently it only comes with a 220v psu. Anyone know which psu I can get for this? US region 110v plug a ungrounded or plug b grounded? I searched and only got more confused lol. Apparently it needs to be a 110v-240v 7a rated or something? Links appreciated


----------



## hogofwar

Can square trade be ordered even when it isn't given as an option in the item page? The US currency converted excellent castle item page doesn't have the option, while the GBP item page does. Though the GBP item page is a bit more expensive.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Haha ma man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If Red Cap refuse - I'll go via excellentcastle - or any ultimate pixel + 3 yr square trade.


Lol the real test is gonna be that R9 290 I am gonna order next month!







Already have about $200 in Amazon GCs.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Can square trade be ordered even when it isn't given as an option in the item page? The US currency converted excellent castle item page doesn't have the option, while the GBP item page does. Though the GBP item page is a bit more expensive.


Everyone seemed to up the prices. I'm gonna wait for a drop.. I hope









I believe you can contact square trade directly and they will give you a quote. I believe that's what @lawson67 did


----------



## hogofwar

I think i'm just gonna go for this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171236516279

With squaretrade.

The UK ultimate pp from excellentcastle is too expensive.

any thoughts?


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I think i'm just gonna go for this one:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171236516279
> 
> With squaretrade.
> 
> The UK ultimate pp from excellentcastle is too expensive.
> 
> any thoughts?


This is what I've ordered as well - Fingers Crossed!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I think i'm just gonna go for this one:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171236516279
> 
> With squaretrade.
> 
> The UK ultimate pp from excellentcastle is too expensive.
> 
> any thoughts?


No guarantee on PERFECT pixels. Might come with 1-2 dead pixels.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I say that we should keep it simple. If it skips frames, let's just say it doesn't overclock.


This is the internet, people wont take that, they will try anyhow, find out it reaches a higher hz, then say we are wrong.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No guarantee on PERFECT pixels. Might come with 1-2 dead pixels.


What does...

_"*Perfect Pixel = NO Dead/Stuck Pixel"*
_
...mean then?

Additional, when I sent a message the response is below:-

_Hi
We send this by EMS system, if you want to use something else you should pay for it.
1 year free warranty for A/S, but the shipping fee is up to you.

"Perfect Pixel" means NO dead/stuck pixel, No backlight bleeding
We check all the monitor once more before we ship it to the buyer.
If it has problem or broke through the delivery system we will give you new one.
We will pay for the return fee for the very first time. But you should prove this clearly too.

If you want, we will declare the package as a "gift", and lower value of the actual price.
However, we are not sure that if the custom tax would be charged, or not.
You will responsible for any import duties, taxes and charges if occur.
Please feel free to ask any questions._

Also, they do not say, unlike some of the other sellers I've seen, that 1 or 2 dead pixels is allowed etc.

Only time will tell I guess.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> What does...
> 
> _"*Perfect Pixel = NO Dead/Stuck Pixel"*
> _
> ...mean then?
> 
> Additional, when I sent a message the response is below:-
> 
> _Hi
> We send this by EMS system, if you want to use something else you should pay for it.
> 1 year free warranty for A/S, but the shipping fee is up to you.
> 
> "Perfect Pixel" means NO dead/stuck pixel, No backlight bleeding
> We check all the monitor once more before we ship it to the buyer.
> If it has problem or broke through the delivery system we will give you new one.
> We will pay for the return fee for the very first time. But you should prove this clearly too.
> 
> If you want, we will declare the package as a "gift", and lower value of the actual price.
> However, we are not sure that if the custom tax would be charged, or not.
> You will responsible for any import duties, taxes and charges if occur.
> Please feel free to ask any questions._
> 
> Also, they do not say, unlike some of the other sellers I've seen, that 1 or 2 dead pixels is allowed etc.
> 
> Only time will tell I guess.


It means different things to different sellers, that's why you have to read their terms carefully. If you want to pay closer to $400, there are some guaranteed to have zero.


----------



## hogofwar

I've bit the bullet and gone for it.

I can only hope for the best now.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> This is the internet, people wont take that, they will try anyhow, find out it reaches a higher hz, then say we are wrong.


I'm sure someone will also misunderstand you and only see that "it's overclockable" and then stop reading... Alas, because it's happened before.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> This is the internet, people wont take that, they will try anyhow, find out it reaches a higher hz, then say we are wrong.


We should then reinvent the meaning of the word overclock for monitors. A monitor that overclocks yet skips frames is (almost) practically useless aside from probably faster frame delivery (slightly less input lag) given that you actually feed it a multiple of what it skips to (120Hz if 60Hz). For those who like their overclocked, frame-skipping monitors, especially how they feel, they probably wouldn't benefit from 14620Hz.


----------



## bluedevil

I told her a package was coming today....royally pissed!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I'm sure someone will also misunderstand you and only see that "it's overclockable" and then stop reading... Alas, because it's happened before.


So basically, there is no winning answer.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> So basically, there is no winning answer.


No, but it's simpler just to say they aren't overclockable


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> No, but it's simpler just to say they aren't overclockable


But they are, they just, well you know.


----------



## Chowchilla

Stupidly i canceled my order from TA.Korea when the TRUE10's hit, i paid £197. Not paying £20 more because they've decided to jack the price up. no thankyou.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I told her a package was coming today....royally pissed!


Prayers sent your way


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I think i'm just gonna go for this one:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171236516279
> 
> With squaretrade.
> 
> The UK ultimate pp from excellentcastle is too expensive.
> 
> any thoughts?


I ordered the perfect pixel version from him and its really perfect. Just expect 10/15 business days of delivery time.


----------



## hogofwar

Anyone have a good monitor double arm stand for 1x 24" monitor and 1x27" monitor?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

It looks like I'll be buying one of these displays at the end of May,

I just hope the single-input ones are still around.


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Trying to get a straight swap with the seller.
> If he refuses I'll just paypal claim it and go with another seller.


Wait how come your refusing it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Wait how come your refusing it?


as said before:
Because as reported by digitalforce: Doesn't OC past 60hz, doesn't take as 1080P signal from the Xbox


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> as said before:
> Because as reported by digitalforce: Doesn't OC past 60hz, doesn't take as 1080P signal from the Xbox


Oh gotcha, So they said it would overclock and it doesn't? Sneaky bastards!


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> as said before:
> Because as reported by digitalforce: Doesn't OC past 60hz, doesn't take as 1080P signal from the Xbox


Yeah, I am going through my return with excellentcastle right now. He/they want TONS of information before they will accept the return. It's a beautiful monitor but only suitable for 60hz gaming/desktop or 720p console from my findings.

Either way, I will report back...


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Oh gotcha, So they said it would overclock and it doesn't? Sneaky bastards!


It DOES overclock past 60hz but it skips frame which makes gaming choppy/next to worthless.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strickt*
> 
> Oh gotcha, So they said it would overclock and it doesn't? Sneaky bastards!


See below.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Yeah, I am going through my return with excellentcastle right now. He/they want TONS of information before they will accept the return. It's a beautiful monitor but only suitable for 60hz gaming/desktop or 720p console from my findings.
> 
> Either way, I will report back...


Simple as this:
"Does not match your eBay listing"
If they don't wish to deal with you fairly, then escalate it to eBay and then let them deal with a very valid and FAIR paypal claim.

It's like me selling you a GPU and then the GPU not even working.
Sure the monitor works, but it isn't as described.

I won't even pay a re-stocking fee either. At least, in my case, I didn't even open the monitor.
Shipping is the sellers responsibility for not checking the monitors and/or confirming with the manufacturer before selling.
False marketing in short.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> It DOES overclock past 60hz but it skips frame which makes gaming choppy/next to worthless.


Skipped frames = does not scale/OC - simple as that really lol


----------



## digitalforce

Word. I am pretty firm on my full refund for the monitor and I refuse to pay shipping or any fees. If I get any runaround from excellentcastle tonight, I will escalate it to eBay.

If there is a glossy and single input of the TRUE10 out anytime soon, that would be awesome.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Word. I am pretty firm on my full refund for the monitor and I refuse to pay shipping or any fees. If I get any runaround from excellentcastle tonight, I will escalate it to eBay.
> 
> If there is a glossy and single input of the TRUE10 out anytime soon, that would be awesome.


Let me know if your saber vision finds any







!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Word. I am pretty firm on my full refund for the monitor and I refuse to pay shipping or any fees. If I get any runaround from excellentcastle tonight, I will escalate it to eBay.
> 
> If there is a glossy and single input of the TRUE10 out anytime soon, that would be awesome.


Gonna measure before you send it back (PM)?


----------



## Strickt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> It DOES overclock past 60hz but it skips frame which makes gaming choppy/next to worthless.


Ooph, thats even worse!!


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Gonna measure before you send it back (PM)?


Yessir -- Sorry for the slow response. Please send me details on color accuracy tests you use/prefer.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Mine has arrived in the States! Only couple days left!


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> If there is a glossy and single input of the TRUE10 out anytime soon, that would be awesome.


Thats what I'm waiting for. Accessorieswhole said a DVI-D HDMI version is coming out though not sure how that will differ then the one now. Anyway, I'm sure another OEM manufacturer can step up, 1plus have a AHVA out.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Yessir -- Sorry for the slow response. Please send me details on color accuracy tests you use/prefer.


Awesome.

Download HCFR then install.
Open HCFR, New, View Images, i1 Display Pro
Then check if there is any existing meter correction file available (will have to ask more about this, will be back).
Click Finish, then "Measure grayscale, primary and secondary colors".
Measurements are done, save file. Distribute results by screenshot or if you like, send me the file by PM and I'll do that and credit you.

If you would like to do an ICC profile too, then download ArgyllCMS, dispcalGUI, install, and use the following settings in dispcalGUI:
Whitepoint: 6500K
Tone curve: Gamma 2.2
Calibration speed: Low
Profile quality: High

I tend to disable Black point compensation and I recommend you do so since the i1DP is pretty accurate at low IRE.

Calibrate & Profile, it gets to measuring, produces a profile. Share with community, rep+++.

Thanks!


----------



## hogofwar

What does "1 year free warranty for A/S" mean?


----------



## UKSimmer

Hello everyone! Firstly, thanks for this great thread, I am learning a lot from it.

I mostly play flight simulators and I was thinking of upgrading my triple-monitor setup and was looking at 27" monitors at 2560x1440 resolutions and came upon the Korean monitor concept and stumbled onto here. I am currently reading my way down the thread but still at page 15.

I was thinking of buying 3 27" monitors but it seems like a setup for one monitor will not be good for another. Or each monitor will OC to different levels. Or have different alignment issues. I wonder if anyone here has bought 3 monitors for a three-screen setup (I know at least a couple members have) and what issues there are trying to make 3 screens work nice with each other?

Also, you guys seem to be really hardcore with your monitors; I've never had to color-adjust mine. Can I ask why you would OC a monitor from 60Hz to 120Hz?

Has anyone had to send back their monitor and how did they do it? I see some that guarantee zero bad pixels and also say they pay for return postage (eBay sellers).

Lastly, are there any methods or tricks or instructions to give to sellers so that I don't get ripped off in customs/taxes? I live in the UK.... if that fact isn't obvious yet!


----------



## snapdragon

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Hello everyone! Firstly, thanks for this great thread, I am learning a lot from it.
> 
> I mostly play flight simulators and I was thinking of upgrading my triple-monitor setup and was looking at 27" monitors at 2560x1440 resolutions and came upon the Korean monitor concept and stumbled onto here. I am currently reading my way down the thread but still at page 15.
> 
> I was thinking of buying 3 27" monitors but it seems like a setup for one monitor will not be good for another. Or each monitor will OC to different levels. Or have different alignment issues. I wonder if anyone here has bought 3 monitors for a three-screen setup (I know at least a couple members have) and what issues there are trying to make 3 screens work nice with each other?
> 
> Also, you guys seem to be really hardcore with your monitors; I've never had to color-adjust mine. Can I ask why you would OC a monitor from 60Hz to 120Hz?
> 
> Has anyone had to send back their monitor and how did they do it? I see some that guarantee zero bad pixels and also say they pay for return postage (eBay sellers).
> 
> Lastly, are there any methods or tricks or instructions to give to sellers so that I don't get ripped off in customs/taxes? I live in the UK.... if that fact isn't obvious yet!


I had an issue with the monitor that I got from Green-Sum. I got a perfect pixel version but when it came it had a streak of dead pixels. I contacted them. They were very good in communication. They then asked to send in hi res pics or videos. I send in hi res pics and they agreed to take it back. One day after a week or so UPS came up to my door for pickup. Then it stayed in the UPS as a damaged goods item and then it shipped back to Korea. Once they receive it I am hoping they will quickly refund. The whole process of purchase and return has taken a month.


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Hello everyone! Firstly, thanks for this great thread, I am learning a lot from it.
> 
> I mostly play flight simulators and I was thinking of upgrading my triple-monitor setup and was looking at 27" monitors at 2560x1440 resolutions and came upon the Korean monitor concept and stumbled onto here. I am currently reading my way down the thread but still at page 15.
> 
> I was thinking of buying 3 27" monitors but it seems like a setup for one monitor will not be good for another. Or each monitor will OC to different levels. Or have different alignment issues. I wonder if anyone here has bought 3 monitors for a three-screen setup (I know at least a couple members have) and what issues there are trying to make 3 screens work nice with each other?
> 
> Also, you guys seem to be really hardcore with your monitors; I've never had to color-adjust mine. Can I ask why you would OC a monitor from 60Hz to 120Hz?
> 
> Has anyone had to send back their monitor and how did they do it? I see some that guarantee zero bad pixels and also say they pay for return postage (eBay sellers).
> 
> Lastly, are there any methods or tricks or instructions to give to sellers so that I don't get ripped off in customs/taxes? I live in the UK.... if that fact isn't obvious yet!


Welcome to OCN I hope you enjoy your stay









I won't answer all your questions but I can tell you this, if I were you I wouldn't worry too much about alignment issues (it would be too small to notice in my opinion). Overclocking the monitor gives you the benefit that it refreshes faster. This is especially important in games where it makes it feel more responsive. I'm a hardcore fps gamer and I can tell you I don't want to go back to 60 Hz after overclocking my monitor. Also, whether you can hit 120 Hz or not does not seem guaranteed, but I can tell you even if you hit 96 Hz which you should it would already be worth it. As for whether it is worth it to get 3 monitors for eyefinity I can't tell you. You will probably need a very good graphics card for it to run smoothly. Regarding to customs I don't think anyone has found a way to completely circumvent it since the couriers need actual values to be declared for insurance and customs, and also I can't speak for UK customs. I bought from accessorieswhole and it was really well packaged and Fedex is a good courier company so I did not have any issues. I just have a little backlight bleed on the top of my screen, the panel sits ever so slightly misaligned with the bezel and I have one stuck red pixel. All of which I never notice. I just notice a flipping awesome screen which looks and performs fantastic for the price I paid.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yeah, he was literally like: "Oh ok then, no idea why they didn't call." He starts walking off and then I ask him: "Where there any customs charges? DO you know how much the seller will be charged?" His reply: "NO idea!" With like a shake on his head...
> I mean his the driver I know, but surely he would have to know if there were ANY customs charges as he would be the one needing to declare it to me?
> I guess there wasn't any custom charges then?
> 
> I was in two minds as I saw the monitor. Problem is if I opened it, didn't like it, have to return it - the problems of sending an open package + arranging delivery would cost me probably over $50 as it is.
> So, I think I made the right decision. At least the seller doesn't have to "restock it" - it's unopened.
> 
> The seller did tell me the manufacturer did "guarantee it" to work with Xbox.
> Sure, but maybe not at 1080P. And that's a deal breaker for me.
> 
> I played at 720p and 1080i for a long long period of time. I utterly hated it - until I got my LG monitor. Made a world of difference to me.


Dubbed myself and a few other Guys from the UK that have bought these monitors have got there custom charges a week later after receiving the monitor!....Mine came in the form of a letter from FED-EX for only £30 as i asked accessorieswhole to mark it down at $200 instead of £200!...In the letter FED-EX claimed they had to pay this to customs for them to release it "which is what happens" so they could deliver it to me...i just thought i would give you the heads up on that









Edit: Also the driver would not know about any custom charges he is just tasked to Deliver it







....I remember having wait hours in my truck for customs to release 30ton containers at Southampton docks and this was after they had been paid...you can not pick it up until they have been paid and they give the loader clearance to drop the box on the back of your truck..this can take hours...sometimes days!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Dubbed myself and a few other Guys from the UK that have bought these monitors have got there custom charges a week later after receiving the monitor!....Mine came in the form of a letter from FED-EX for only £30 as i asked accessorieswhole to mark it down at $200 instead of £200!...In the letter FED-EX claimed they had to pay this to customs for them to release it "which is what happens" so they could deliver it to me...i just thought i would give you the heads up on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also the driver would not know about any custom charges he is just tasked to Deliver it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....I remember having wait hours in my truck for customs to release 30ton containers at Southampton docks and this was after they had been paid...you can not pick it up until they have been paid and they give the loader clearance to drop the box on the back of your truck..this can take hours...sometimes days!


fair enough - although in france when I received something from China, they delivered it and asked for the payment upon delivery. Simple as that.
I'll definitely not be paying anything lol.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

I can't for the life of me get a frameskip test to show 120hz anymore. I did a clean install of windows to try and fix my GPU issues (was getting only black screens when launching games) and it worked, but now frameskip just shows 60 instead of 120. Is something just wrong with the frameskip site now? Games and AMD Catalyst both show me at 120 and I've properly patched my drivers and setup CRU.

Edit: Nevermind, fixed it. Stupidly forgot that I had basic theme enabled. I was wondering why the colors were a bit odd.


----------



## Watagump

Got a text message from DHL, monitor arrives tomorrow, damn that was fast.


----------



## redfrick

I just got my QNIX QX2710 Evolution II and am blown away. What a deal. And to think I was almost too afraid to buy one. Overclocked to 96Hz with no problems.

FYI, I bought mine from eBay. Seller was storewithstory if anyone is interested. It took 2 days to get to California from Korea, friggin incredible.


----------



## Nnimrod

I just bought a QX2710









Although tbh I'm not sure what all is wrong with my existing asus 1080 24" screen. Oh well, this is OCN, where we spend money on stuff


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nnimrod*
> 
> I just bought a QX2710
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although tbh I'm not sure what all is wrong with my existing asus 1080 24" screen. Oh well, this is OCN, where we spend money on stuff


You can never have enough screens. Never.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redfrick*
> 
> I just got my QNIX QX2710 Evolution II and am blown away. What a deal. And to think I was almost too afraid to buy one. Overclocked to 96Hz with no problems.
> 
> FYI, I bought mine from eBay. Seller was storewithstory if anyone is interested. It took 2 days to get to California from Korea, friggin incredible.


Mine arrives tomorrow from them. Bought it on Friday, going to swing by DHL on the way to a client and pick it up.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> You can never have enough screens. Never.


Sure you can, as long as each of them have a BEZEL.


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> I
> I had an issue with the monitor that I got from Green-Sum. I got a perfect pixel version but when it came it had a streak of dead pixels. I contacted them. They were very good in communication. They then asked to send in hi res pics or videos. I send in hi res pics and they agreed to take it back. One day after a week or so UPS came up to my door for pickup. Then it stayed in the UPS as a damaged goods item and then it shipped back to Korea. Once they receive it I am hoping they will quickly refund. The whole process of purchase and return has taken a month.


Have you raised a dispute in eBay/Paypal? I would've done so by the 14th day, or maybe 2 days after they said they would take it back. As soon as the courier takes it from my doorstep, I'd expect a refund ASAP.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> Welcome to OCN I hope you enjoy your stay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I won't answer all your questions but I can tell you this, if I were you I wouldn't worry too much about alignment issues (it would be too small to notice in my opinion). Overclocking the monitor gives you the benefit that it refreshes faster. This is especially important in games where it makes it feel more responsive. I'm a hardcore fps gamer and I can tell you I don't want to go back to 60 Hz after overclocking my monitor. Also, whether you can hit 120 Hz or not does not seem guaranteed, but I can tell you even if you hit 96 Hz which you should it would already be worth it. As for whether it is worth it to get 3 monitors for eyefinity I can't tell you. You will probably need a very good graphics card for it to run smoothly. Regarding to customs I don't think anyone has found a way to completely circumvent it since the couriers need actual values to be declared for insurance and customs, and also I can't speak for UK customs. I bought from accessorieswhole and it was really well packaged and Fedex is a good courier company so I did not have any issues. I just have a little backlight bleed on the top of my screen, the panel sits ever so slightly misaligned with the bezel and I have one stuck red pixel. All of which I never notice. I just notice a flipping awesome screen which looks and performs fantastic for the price I paid.


Thanks for the welcome! I got my son a Samsung Syncmaster 24" monitor a few years back and I did notice a bright pink dot, about the size of the "dot" of the "i" and it is noticeable if you look at it but when looking at the screen as a whole, you'd barely notice it. However, how do you COUNT the pixels? Surely the dot on the i is more than 1 pixel?

I am using a 60Hz iiyama 24" monitor and my favorite flight sim sits around 30-38fps when I am flying and using all my monitors. I would expect upgrading to 27" 2560x1440 monitors would lower the fps considering my GPU (HD 7970 3GB) will have to push more pixels. So why overclock the monitor if the GPU can't push 60fps in the first place? Or 90fps for that matter?

As for customs, the less it costs the better obviously, but I've not dealt with these sellers or anyone from Korea so any tips?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Dubbed myself and a few other Guys from the UK that have bought these monitors have got there custom charges a week later after receiving the monitor!....Mine came in the form of a letter from FED-EX for only £30 as i asked accessorieswhole to mark it down at $200 instead of £200!...In the letter FED-EX claimed they had to pay this to customs for them to release it "which is what happens" so they could deliver it to me...i just thought i would give you the heads up on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also the driver would not know about any custom charges he is just tasked to Deliver it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....I remember having wait hours in my truck for customs to release 30ton containers at Southampton docks and this was after they had been paid...you can not pick it up until they have been paid and they give the loader clearance to drop the box on the back of your truck..this can take hours...sometimes days!


£30 seems okay for one monitor, but why declare $200 instead of £200? Why not declare $100? Or even $50 and gift as I've read from earlier pages?

Thanks for the help guys! I'm looking forward to buying my monitors but I'm a bit picky so would probably pay extra for the option to RETURN a monitor with a stuck pixel or two. I don't want to ignore something if I can pay for it not to be there. Has anyone returned their monitor to the seller for not being pixel perfect? I'd rather buy from a no-hassle seller.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Have you raised a dispute in eBay/Paypal? I would've done so by the 14th day, or maybe 2 days after they said they would take it back. As soon as the courier takes it from my doorstep, I'd expect a refund ASAP.


Remember, think of it as a seller. Why would you refund your buyer when you haven't inspected the sold item.
For all you know, a buyer could have left out the cable you included in the box.
So you have to give it time to go back. On average, I would say it would take 14-20days for a full refund (as it's going to Korea)

And $200 - and not $50 -as if it gets lost or broken, fedex or whoever is responsible is still responsible for $200 in damages. Thus there's still insurance for it at that given price. Sure it wont' be full price but might cover your loses in some respects.


----------



## brialee8

dream-seller update:

Hi thank you for the message.

We can only guess it will be this Thursday (Korean time).
The reason we are keep getting bad quality monitors is because the manufacture is not getting enough panels from Samsung.
Therefore they sent some remaining bad quality monitors to us.

I'm truly sorry, since there are many inconveniences you have had, we would like to provide compensations.

1. For those of you who would like to cancel, we will provide full refund plus $10 compensation.
2. For those of you who would like to keep the order we will also provide $10 compensation.

Again, I apologize for any inconvenience and hope you could kindly understand.
We always try our best to send out the best quality products as well as best service to our buyers.
Our customer's satisfactory means everything to us. We will continuously improve our service for better business.

Tentative date now...


----------



## Watagump

I do respect dream-seller's honesty, they are flat out informing people about quality issues, props to them.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That's a sign of a brilliant seller. No matter which way you look at it.
Sure you might have lost time, but the reseller is going out of their way to make it OK for you. Heck even for just a "positive" feedback. Props to that seller!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Prayers sent your way


Couch nite. Super looks like the monitor is going back.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Couch nite. Super looks like the monitor is going back.


Marriage sounds wonderful


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Marriage sounds wonderful


It blows. The longer you are married, the more controlling they become.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> It blows. The longer you are married, the more controlling they become.


Marriage honestly scares me.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Props to dream seller! My monitor will be here wednesday! I ordered it for 279 before the price went up to 329! Supply and demand I guess.. This makes me more confident I will get a good quality monitor..PROPS!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Marriage honestly scares me.


Say goodbye to everything that you like to do or with. My rigs have taken a downward spiral in the last 5 years. To boot I got a better job and it only got worse. She started telling me that I am getting too old for this crap and I should find something "else" to do with my time.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Say goodbye to everything that you like to do or with. My rigs have taken a downward spiral in the last 5 years. To boot I got a better job and it only got worse. She started telling me that I am getting too old for this crap and I should find something "else" to do with my time.


Dude no way I could put up with that. EVERYONE should have the freedom to enjoy what they will. I mean it's understandable if you're struggling but if you are doing okay and work for your money then by all means you should be able to enjoy it how you will.

Sigh Goodluck buddy... p.s. keep the monitor. You deserve it!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Dude no way I could put up with that. EVERYONE should have the freedom to enjoy what they will. I mean it's understandable if you're struggling but if you are doing okay and work for your money then by all means you should be able to enjoy it how you will.
> 
> Sigh Goodluck buddy... p.s. keep the monitor. You deserve it!


I just might! The problem is that she is a stay at home mom that doesn't work. Now she does alot around the house, but I do help out a ton too!. Dishes, laundry, kids, vacuuming, house maintenance, ect. So it's not like I don't help out. The only thing I do is computers.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I just might!


Keep the monitor, but not your wife.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I just might!


Not to rub it in BUT my lady friend put this monitor on her credit card and I'm paying her each week. Sadly I make minimum wage and live check to check but I still deserve to enjoy 4 million pixels! It will make those terrible paychecks more bearable


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Keep the monitor, but not your wife.


I've been married for 14 years. In the beginning, my wife would question a lot of my purchases. As the years go on and more and more gear arrives, she has given up on it. I've tried over 12 graphics cards and 8 monitors in the past 6 months.









She is a patient and awesome woman..


----------



## MenacingTuba

dream-seller shipped my allegedly glossy X-Star on Friday and never messaged me about quality issues.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> To me using my monitor driver and enabling custom resolutions in ATI CCC is the way forward! ...As great as CRU is i just don't like using EDID overrides and i don't like the conflicts that are associated with using them and certain software i enjoy using...i will find a solution very soon


EDID overrides don't cause conflicts. NVIDIA's driver is buggy. AMD's driver doesn't have that problem, so what conflicts are you trying to avoid?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> This why i love the monitor driver method so much with NVCP!...Because if you use a monitor driver and then you set your custom resolutions in NVCP you did not need and you have not created an EDID override!...this is why you could still use programs like Samsung Magician and Nvidia Geforce experience without any conflicts!..and this is what i want to try and find a solution to using ATI cards!...i believe i will find a way


GeForce Experience is for NVIDIA cards only, and Samsung Magician doesn't affect AMD's driver, so what problem are you trying to solve? What software are you trying to use?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Couch nite. Super looks like the monitor is going back.


Sorry but that's unacceptable.
I don't have a wife, but had a long term relationship with a special lady. Unfortunately it didn't work out in the end as she had to go back to her homeland.
However, we never, ever had problems like that.

I can understand someone paying say £3000 on a new PC, on a shared account - but someone spending less than 1 pair of jeans on a monitor (He got it super cheap folks), that will probably last longer than "her fashion" - I have little to no belief about.

I wouldn't stand anyone controlling my life. It's my PC, my monitor, heck it's my own god damn gift card. What makes YOU (your wife) have a say over it?

Sorry man, had to vent out there - can't stand that type of crap in relationships.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Keep the monitor, but not your wife.


This haha


----------



## SeanEboy

No wife, happy life... ;c)


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Sorry but that's unacceptable.
> I don't have a wife, but had a long term relationship with a special lady. Unfortunately it didn't work out in the end as she had to go back to her homeland.
> However, we never, ever had problems like that.
> 
> I can understand someone paying say £3000 on a new PC, on a shared account - but someone spending less than 1 pair of jeans on a monitor (He got it super cheap folks), that will probably last longer than "her fashion" - I have little to no belief about.
> 
> I wouldn't stand anyone controlling my life. It's my PC, my monitor, heck it's my own god damn gift card. What makes YOU (your wife) have a say over it?
> 
> Sorry man, had to vent out there - can't stand that type of crap in relationships.
> This haha


Here's the thing, I never really told her about the GCs either. I had them for about a month to 2 months. She says, we could have used them on other things for the house and kids. She says she is more hurt I had to "keep it from her". I know what would have happened, she would have spent it on stupid useless crap! (which oddly enough, that's what she thinks of my "hobby")

The thing is the last time I got something big, was last year when I built this SFF rig. Point is, I never buy myself hardly anything.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Here's the thing, I never really told her about the GCs either. I had them for about a month to 2 months. She says, we could have used them on other things for the house and kids. She says she is more hurt I had to "keep it from her". I know what would have happened, she would have spent it on stupid useless crap! (which oddly enough, that's what she thinks of my "hobby")
> 
> The thing is the last time I got something big, was last year when I built this SFF rig. Point is, I never buy myself hardly anything.


it's quite simple. Just tell her that you had to keep it from her, or else you wouldn't get your own enjoyment in your purchase. You should question her on how much you've actually spent and see if that's fair when you compare it to others or even her.
You could also raise the point of it being future proof and it actually being used by the kids, her and you to watch movies or anything like that. Sure you could have bought other stuff, for the house for example, but you should say that you also live in a house, where you would like to be happy in too.
You know your wife better than anyone in the world really. But, unless you have spending habits (which doesn't sound like it) AND considering you are actually earning money, then you should be entitled to your own purchases alongside with the 'house and kids' ones too


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> it's quite simple. Just tell her that you had to keep it from her, or else you wouldn't get your own enjoyment in your purchase. You should question her on how much you've actually spent and see if that's fair when you compare it to others or even her.
> You could also raise the point of it being future proof and it actually being used by the kids, her and you to watch movies or anything like that. Sure you could have bought other stuff, for the house for example, but you should say that you also live in a house, where you would like to be happy in too.
> You know your wife better than anyone in the world really. But, unless you have spending habits (which doesn't sound like it) AND considering you are actually earning money, then you should be entitled to your own purchases alongside with the 'house and kids' ones too


Well put. I think at this point I need someone besides me to tell her that. Maybe her father.


----------



## digitalforce

I don't envy your position. It's always easier for outsiders to say "Dump the wife" and "get rid of her" but I realize it's not that easy.

For me, I have come to the agreement with my wife that I support and let her do her things (expensive hair cuts/coloring, house items, clothes) and daddy gets his geek on. It's a 50/50 agreement. I have several friends whose wives OWN them.. I will never understand that and I could never do it but everyone to their own.


----------



## Watagump

Psst, this isn't a relationship thread.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Psst, this isn't a relationship thread.


It is now.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Psst, this isn't a relationship thread.


Sorry.









Back on topic please.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back on topic please.


WATAGUMP HAS SPOKEN.


----------



## anthonyg45157

4 million pixels and 109ppi wooooo! Lol back to topic!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I don't envy your position. It's always easier for outsiders to say "Dump the wife" and "get rid of her" but I realize it's not that easy.
> 
> For me, I have come to the agreement with my wife that I support and let her do her things (expensive hair cuts/coloring, house items, clothes) and daddy gets his geek on. It's a 50/50 agreement. I have several friends whose wives OWN them.. I will never understand that and I could never do it but everyone to their own.


haha yeah, I say that in a joking manner (dump the wife) . To be honest, if it's true love, you'll come to an agreement. Despite me never understanding the principle of my ex buying shoes she already had, I was happy that she was happy. Doesn't matter what it was or how much it was, if she was happy, that's all I wanted and needed in my life, happiness. Money is a thing that's there one minute and gone the other. Happiness even for a short period of time stays with you forever in your earth and soul.


----------



## digitalforce

Relationships. Yuck. BACK TO GEEKERY! 

Anywho, still fighting my True10 return with excellentcastle. "I did not receive photo or video of bad thing." -- ARGH! I hate trying to communicate in broken English. I DID attach two photos dag nabbit! Almost ready to turn over to eBay.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Relationships. Yuck. BACK TO GEEKERY!
> 
> Anywho, still fighting my True10 return with excellentcastle. "I did not receive photo or video of bad thing." -- ARGH! I hate trying to communicate in broken English. I DID attach two photos dag nabbit! Almost ready to turn over to eBay.


Try using the not as advertised thing, they claim they overclock, which we know is not 100% accurate.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> WATAGUMP HAS SPOKEN.


I hate that dude.


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I do respect dream-seller's honesty, they are flat out informing people about quality issues, props to them.


he never told me there are quality issues with the panels he has, but told me that he's not getting enough monitors from the manufacturer. count me as s conspiracy theorist, but these sellers are in it for the money, and if saying "oh, we got some bad panels, and we don't want to send bad panels to our customers, hence the delay" helps them build a positive image, they'd gladly say that, even if it's not true.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Props to dream seller! My monitor will be here wednesday! I ordered it for 279 before the price went up to 329! Supply and demand I guess.. This makes me more confident I will get a good quality monitor..PROPS!


Looks like mine arrived in Anchorage today also, although there are a couple of the lines on the Fedex tracking, after that, that say "in transit Incheon KR", so hopefully it didn't get sent back or something. Still showing delivery on the 19th though.

Also noticed an auction on an "ultimate perfect pixel" from storewithstory - put a "what the heck" bid on that and almost won it. So if anyone is looking, check for short auctions from them - the end price was $350, or about $40 less than the ones excellentcastle sells.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> he never told me there are quality issues with the panels he has, but told me that he's not getting enough monitors from the manufacturer. count me as s conspiracy theorist, but these sellers are in it for the money, and if saying "oh, we got some bad panels, and we don't want to send bad panels to our customers, hence the delay" helps them build a positive image, they'd gladly say that, even if it's not true.


I have seen a few posts from people where they told them about having quality issues.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Looks like mine arrived in Anchorage today also, although there are a couple of the lines on the Fedex tracking, after that, that say "in transit Incheon KR", so hopefully it didn't get sent back or something. Still showing delivery on the 19th though.
> 
> Also noticed an auction on an "ultimate perfect pixel" from storewithstory - put a "what the heck" bid on that and almost won it. So if anyone is looking, check for short auctions from them - the end price was $350, or about $40 less than the ones excellentcastle sells.


They also do short term auctions on the PP ones. I should of gone that route, might of saved another $20.


----------



## Watagump

NVM, picture was way too big.


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have seen a few posts from people where they told them about having quality issues.


yes, i've seen those posts too. they had already ordered from him, whereas i was inquiring whether he can ship one fast IF (sorry for shouting) i order from him. he wants to keep the money he's already gotten from those buyers while also to make me buy from him as well, so how to optimize this? he tells the ones who have already bought monitors that he is indeed sending them good ones and the delay is because he has been receiving bad panels from the manufacturer (that way he will get to keep their money and will get their positive feedback as well even though he's shipping their monitors TWO WEEKS AFTER (sorry for shouting) the payment while he's clearly said said in his auction that he will ship the next day!). whereas for someone like me, he never mentions any quality issues so as not to scare me away.

i could be completely wrong, but i take whatever these eBay sellers tell me with a grain of salt. we all know that they don't really test the monitors as thoroughly as they claim they do.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> yes, i've seen those posts too. they had already ordered from him, whereas i was inquiring whether he can ship one fast IF (sorry for shouting) i order from him. he wants to keep the money he's already gotten from those buyers while also to make me buy from him as well, so how to optimize this? he tells the ones who have already bought monitors that he is indeed sending them good ones and the delay is because he has been receiving bad panels from the manufacturer (that way he will get to keep their money and will get their positive feedback as well even though he's shipping their monitors TWO WEEKS AFTER (sorry for shouting) the payment while he's clearly said said in his auction that he will ship the next day!). whereas for someone like me, he never mentions any quality issues so as not to scare me away.
> 
> i could be completely wrong, but i take whatever these eBay sellers tell me with a grain of salt. we all know that they don't really test the monitors as thoroughly as they claim they do.


I guess the question is, are other sellers also shipping on a delay and if not, why? Because they aren't checking the monitors as carefully and sending lesser panels, or because they get better stock from the manufacturer? Or because he had a crazy sale and sold way more than he expected? I ordered mine from him a week ago, and while I'm not thrilled with the delay, at least he sent me an email to let me know he was aware of the issue. For me that's good enough, but I can understand why it would really upset some people.

Which all kind of makes me wonder what kind of testing Samsung is doing on these panels, and why they are being sold off this way. If there are truly perfect panels available, as some have gotten, then what's the defect that forces them to be sold for half-price?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I guess the question is, are other sellers also shipping on a delay and if not, why? Because they aren't checking the monitors as carefully and sending lesser panels, or because they get better stock from the manufacturer? Or because he had a crazy sale and sold way more than he expected? I ordered mine from him a week ago, and while I'm not thrilled with the delay, at least he sent me an email to let me know he was aware of the issue. For me that's good enough, but I can understand why it would really upset some people.
> 
> Which all kind of makes me wonder what kind of testing Samsung is doing on these panels, and why they are being sold off this way. If there are truly perfect panels available, as some have gotten, then what's the defect that forces them to be sold for half-price?


I just wonder if some of the sellers that don't do as much volume as the more popular sellers, just have stock that may not be part of the bad batches. I have checked feedback from my seller, people have been getting panels they are happy with. Reviews even as early as today.

As for panel quality, well they are all suppose to be A-, they also don't have the marketing expense of larger companies like Asus etc, so they can have some savings there.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I guess the question is, are other sellers also shipping on a delay and if not, why? Because they aren't checking the monitors as carefully and sending lesser panels, or because they get better stock from the manufacturer? Or because he had a crazy sale and sold way more than he expected? I ordered mine from him a week ago, and while I'm not thrilled with the delay, at least he sent me an email to let me know he was aware of the issue. For me that's good enough, but I can understand why it would really upset some people.
> 
> Which all kind of makes me wonder what kind of testing Samsung is doing on these panels, and why they are being sold off this way. If there are truly perfect panels available, as some have gotten, then what's the defect that forces them to be sold for half-price?


This is exactly how I feel.

And I had to wait 5 days. .. ordered sunday..shipped friday..will be here wednesday. . I sent a total of 5 emails back a forth with dream-seller and he assured me all the way through. If I get a bad quality monitor I will blame shipping.


----------



## darxider

ordered mine from accessorieswhole. now, the wait...


----------



## jameyscott

I wondered that as well. My panel is almost perfect. A tiny bit of BBL that isn't noticeable unless you put a black background on it. Heck, one of my ASUS VG248QEs has more bbl.


----------



## Maverickbp

I was looking to add two more X-Star's for a triple setup but then saw this deal at Rakuten/Monoprice. 27' 1440p for $289.99 plus you get $29 in Rakuten bucks. I know it's usually better to get three of the same monitors but this is really tempting...

http://monoprice.shop.rakuten.com/p/27-ips-zero-g-slim-monitor-wqhd-2560x1440-dual-link-dvi-vga/254863185.html


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151254078260?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## jameyscott

I wish I would have seen that. I would have bought 10...

EDIT: linky lol talk about a ebay dispute. No way this is legit.


----------



## brialee8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> dream-seller shipped my allegedly glossy X-Star on Friday and never messaged me about quality issues.


I ordered a Matte one for $279.00. Maybe dream-seller still had a bunch of "glossies" left in stock?

I wasn't aware dream-seller was selling Glossy ones. Just Matte and Tempered Glass?


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I wish I would have seen that. I would have bought 10...
> 
> EDIT: linky lol talk about a ebay dispute. No way this is legit.


yes, the sellers are all 0-feedback brand-new sellers from china! there are even Qnix monitors available at $42.00.


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Thanks for the welcome! I got my son a Samsung Syncmaster 24" monitor a few years back and I did notice a bright pink dot, about the size of the "dot" of the "i" and it is noticeable if you look at it but when looking at the screen as a whole, you'd barely notice it. However, how do you COUNT the pixels? Surely the dot on the i is more than 1 pixel?
> 
> I am using a 60Hz iiyama 24" monitor and my favorite flight sim sits around 30-38fps when I am flying and using all my monitors. I would expect upgrading to 27" 2560x1440 monitors would lower the fps considering my GPU (HD 7970 3GB) will have to push more pixels. So why overclock the monitor if the GPU can't push 60fps in the first place? Or 90fps for that matter?
> 
> As for customs, the less it costs the better obviously, but I've not dealt with these sellers or anyone from Korea so any tips?
> £30 seems okay for one monitor, but why declare $200 instead of £200? Why not declare $100? Or even $50 and gift as I've read from earlier pages?
> 
> Thanks for the help guys! I'm looking forward to buying my monitors but I'm a bit picky so would probably pay extra for the option to RETURN a monitor with a stuck pixel or two. I don't want to ignore something if I can pay for it not to be there. Has anyone returned their monitor to the seller for not being pixel perfect? I'd rather buy from a no-hassle seller.


My stuck pixel is exactly one pixel (which consists of three sub-pixels RGB) and you would be hard pressed to find it, remember at this high resolution the pixels are very small and there are 3.6 M pixels, I have good eyes and I actually looked very carefully at my monitor and for a few days I thought mine was Pixel Perfect!

You make a valid point, if your fps are below 60 fps you probably will not notice it if you overclock your monitor. But I prefer to have my stuff run as optimized and as fast as possible anyway whether it is the weakest link in the chain or not. I also use SVP to do interpolation from 24 fps to 120 fps to match my 120 Hz OC when I watch films and videos and it just looks fantastic. Windows also is much smoother eg. your mouse movement.

I cannot answer your customs answer but not only is it illegal to undervalue a item, but my opinion is, if it got lost, stolen or broken in transit then the seller will lose a lot of money because it would be insured for much less, hence their unwillingness to underdeclare.

I and many others I believe are still of the opinion rather save yourself a few bucks and buy a "regular" version instead of pixel perfect. Pixel perfect may also have one bad pixel and as far as I know no seller would pay for a return and send you another one without a defective pixel.

Remember: In the end you get what you pay for. If you cannot accept something to only be 98% good then rather do not pull the plug on one of these. However, if you know what to expect, and realize there is a 1% chance that shipping or your monitor will be a stuff up, and can live with a minor defect then these monitors can be one of the best buys you ever make, especially considering the benefit of overclocking.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Say goodbye to everything that you like to do or with. My rigs have taken a downward spiral in the last 5 years. To boot I got a better job and it only got worse. She started telling me that I am getting too old for this crap and I should find something "else" to do with my time.


My marriage doesn't have this issue.

As with all purchases over a few quid, we discuss how mcuh it will cost and how much I can sell the old hardware for, then if we've got the cash we'll buy it. Works the same for cars, computers and jewellry.

If she thinks you're getting too old for it and should find something else to do, perhaps you need to work through that with her to find out why and what it is that's annoying her. We've got 2 kids to support so I understand I can't blow thousands on the bleeding edge, but with a bit of planning and a lot of communication you can work through this.

(wife recently granted permission for a QNIX and R9 290)


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Hi
> Sorry for the late shipment due to the production delay.
> The panel has renewed so we are checking once more for the 'perfect pixel'
> Please wait little more. we will ship by EMS so it won't take so long.
> We are so sorry for this.
> Hope you understand it generously.
> Thank you for your patience.


Does this bode well?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Does this bode well?


Which seller was that? Wonder if this is another indication of supply drying up?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Which seller was that? Wonder if this is another indication of supply drying up?


ta.korea_global.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Does this bode well?


When did you order? I've not heard anything yet.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Which seller was that? Wonder if this is another indication of supply drying up?


maybe they switched to the AVHA panels, i just want a single input version


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> maybe they switched to the AVHA panels, i just want a single input version


That'd be my concern - the end of the overclockable PLS gravy train.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> When did you order? I've not heard anything yet.


I ordered yesterday.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> maybe they switched to the AVHA panels, i just want a single input version


are they bad?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> are they bad?


not that we know of. @digitalforce said they were pretty nice indeed and the fellas over at TFT Central will have a comprehensive review out shortly. Its just that, as far as we know, they'll be no single input versions of these so overclocking can go out of the window.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> not that we know of. @digitalforce said they were pretty nice indeed. Its just that, as far as we know, they'll be no single input versions of these so overclocking can go out of the window.


Well I did order a single input qnix monitor....


----------



## BigBobBobson

Hey there guys. Just ordered a QNIX from ta.korean.global, same as hogofwar. I live in the UK and was wondering about the power cable and whether it'd work in UK plug sockets. I messaged him and said he doesn't include the relevant adapters so I wondered if you guys could help figure out what the hell I need to buy to plug *this* monitor into a UK plug socket.


----------



## Forceman

The power brick should take a normal computer cord (like the PSU uses) so if you have a spare one of those you can just use it instead of the Korean plug one that is included. The power brick itself will be multi-voltage, so you just need a plug adapter not any kind of converter.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBobBobson*
> 
> Hey there guys. Just ordered a QNIX from ta.korean.global, same as hogofwar. I live in the UK and was wondering about the power cable and whether it'd work in UK plug sockets. I messaged him and said he doesn't include the relevant adapters so I wondered if you guys could help figure out what the hell I need to buy to plug *this* monitor into a UK plug socket.


My understanding was as the voltage is the same, its just a case of changing the cable, either IEC or Figure of 8 cable, which I have loads kicking around.

otherwise, I guess you could chop the plug off, and wire to a UK plug - but would need to be replace if returned for a fault etc?

Also, have you had any information on dispatch, I've heard nothing, but hogofwar, seem to have at least had a message.

I to ordered yesterday 6am UTC.


----------



## BigBobBobson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> The power brick should take a normal computer cord (like the PSU uses) so if you have a spare one of those you can just use it instead of the Korean plug one that is included. The power brick itself will be multi-voltage, so you just need a plug adapter not any kind of converter.


Thanks a ton!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Also, have you had any information on dispatch, I've heard nothing, but hogofwar, seem to have at least had a message.
> 
> I to ordered yesterday 6am UTC.


Not yet, just receipt of payment and order confirmation. I'll let you know if I get anything


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Say goodbye to everything that you like to do or with. My rigs have taken a downward spiral in the last 5 years. To boot I got a better job and it only got worse. She started telling me that I am getting too old for this crap and I should find something "else" to do with my time.


Wow, I just had to (totally offtopic) reply to this. I've been married for a few years now and my wife absolutely supports me with ANYTHING! I can do whatever I like and even if she isn't a fan of it she'll be happy I'm happy. We both have our own money and buy our own useless stuff and make fun of each other for it.

I thought the kind marriages you describe only existed in bad 80's cartoons and if you're not exaggerating I seriously think you should go and find the RIGHT person for you.









Back on-topic:
Got a reply from TA-Korea. Also confirming he was low on monitors because of the bad quality, he got a new batch and is testing them so he can send out some pixel perfect ones. Should get a tracking number tonight (GMT+1).


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> Wow, I just had to (totally offtopic) reply to this. I've been married for a few years now and my wife absolutely supports me with ANYTHING! I can do whatever I like and even if she isn't a fan of it she'll be happy I'm happy. We both have our own money and buy our own useless stuff and make fun of each other for it.
> 
> I thought the kind marriages you describe only existed in bad 80's cartoons and if you're not exaggerating I seriously think you should go and find the RIGHT person for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back on-topic:
> Got a reply from TA-Korea. Also confirming he was low on monitors because of the bad quality, he got a new batch and is testing them so he can send out some pixel perfect ones. Should get a tracking number tonight (GMT+1).


DO you have to ask for a tracking number? Or is their default shipping with tracking?


----------



## Optimus1978

Back on-topic:
Got a reply from TA-Korea. Also confirming he was low on monitors because of the bad quality, he got a new batch and is testing them so he can send out some pixel perfect ones. Should get a tracking number tonight (GMT+1).







[/quote]

Thanks - When did you order?


----------



## DoubleC

Just registered to thank you all for this thread!

I ordered a perfect pixel (in germany was cheaper than non-perfect pixel from other sellers (~240€+40€ tax)) QNIX 2710 single input monitor from ebay seller storewithstory on thursday and it was delivered yesterday.

Got a perfect monitor without any dead pixels and without any visible backlight bleeding. Stable oc refresh rate out of the box about 108hz. Haven't played around much with different settings, maybe capable of more.

Again: Thank you for this thread and the amount of information & feedback given in it!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Guys - haven't heard back from red cap yet - but check this - his 10bit monitors are no longer for sale:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=red-cap&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XQNIX&_nkw=QNIX&_sacat=0&_from=R40

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221390816061

Interesting don't you find?


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> DO you have to ask for a tracking number? Or is their default shipping with tracking?


I think you always get one, but I thought it was taking too long so I sent a message.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Back on-topic:
> Got a reply from TA-Korea. Also confirming he was low on monitors because of the bad quality, he got a new batch and is testing them so he can send out some pixel perfect ones. Should get a tracking number tonight (GMT+1).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - When did you order?


11-03-2014







Its been a week now. The ad says he'll ship within a day but apparently he couldn't. He told me to sent one tomorrow (which is today) so I'll wait and see for a while.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Does this bode well?


Its funny how I got the same message only including the word "tomorrow"...
Quote:


> Sorry for the late shipment due to the production delay.
> The panel has renewed so we are checking once more for the 'perfect pixel'
> Please wait little more. we will ship it tomorrow by EMS so it won't take so long.
> We are so sorry for this.
> Hope you understand it generously.
> Thank you for your patience.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

I got the same Email from TA Korea global about the delay. I ordered mine on the 10th for $325 and a day later it went up to $345. Today I just got my cables in from monoprice







Can't wait for this to arrive becasue my current display is not holding up too well.


----------



## hogofwar

How bad is the stand for the monitor anyway? Consdering getting a cheap monoprice VESA stand.

Also considering getting a dual stand for my 24 inch and the new 27 inch, but can't find one guaranteed to fit them without extensions.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> I got the same Email from TA Korea global about the delay. I ordered mine on the 10th for $325 and a day later it went up to $345. Today I just got my cables in from monoprice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait for this to arrive becasue my current display is not holding up too well.


Including the word "tomorrow"? Maybe a group of people who ordered before a specific date are only sent out?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> I got the same Email from TA Korea global about the delay. I ordered mine on the 10th for $325 and a day later it went up to $345. Today I just got my cables in from monoprice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait for this to arrive becasue my current display is not holding up too well.


I guess this explains why they didn't question my request for a refund. They must have upped the price to curb sales while they sort stock out.


----------



## Naxxy

Is it needed to patch the nvidia drivers for overclocking?

I'm not using CRU but im using catleap drivers and overclocking directly from Nvidia CP.

Everything works except i cant get higher then 106hz without getting green lines on the screen.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> How bad is the stand for the monitor anyway? Consdering getting a cheap monoprice VESA stand.
> 
> Also considering getting a dual stand for my 24 inch and the new 27 inch, but can't find one guaranteed to fit them without extensions.


Watch for my mini review when my monitor arrives (eta tomorrow)

I've also looked at the stands from monoprice. Can't decide until mingle arrives. Alot of the reviewers are using 27 inch monitor from Korea


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> Including the word "tomorrow"? Maybe a group of people who ordered before a specific date are only sent out?


Yep but it's been over 24 hours since I got that response.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Yep but it's been over 24 hours since I got that response.


Darn, I should've known it'd be like this. I never got something from azia that fast anyway.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> How bad is the stand for the monitor anyway? Consdering getting a cheap monoprice VESA stand.
> 
> Also considering getting a dual stand for my 24 inch and the new 27 inch, but can't find one guaranteed to fit them without extensions.


The stand is really bad i got an ergotron LCD stand to replace it.


----------



## Watagump

I am calling shens on my text from DHL saying my monitor was suppose to be delivered today. Tracking doesn't show it arrived in Irvine.


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> ordered mine from accessorieswhole. now, the wait...


...and it's on route, with FedEx. he shipped it 4hr:30min after i placed my order! i just hope he has at least checked for light banding, as he said he would if i sent him a note with my order (which i did).


----------



## bluedevil

Well, the storm has settled. Let's see if the Qnix stays...


----------



## hogofwar

What's a cheap, decent stand for the monitor? The monoprice one has HUGE feet, but such a good price.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> What's a cheap, decent stand for the monitor? The monoprice one has HUGE feet, but such a good price.


I really don't think you can beat monoprice.


----------



## bluedevil

Well the wife and I talked. The Qnix is getting sold off. I really need to find another outlet other than computers.

Ok now that's decided, should I open it up and test it for BLB and dead pixels? or should I leave it sealed and let the buyer do that?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Well the wife and I talked. The Qnix is getting sold off. I really need to find another outlet other than computers.
> 
> Ok now that's decided, should I open it up and test it for BLB and dead pixels? or should I leave it sealed and let the buyer do that?


If you're selling it off - you should probably test it, for your own rep.
Or else what you going to say: "Not sure if this has BLB or any dead pixels - Ordered it from here though"

I find the whole situation stupid still.
And I would buy it off you, if I was in the US.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If you're selling it off - you should probably test it, for your own rep.
> Or else what you going to say: "Not sure if this has BLB or any dead pixels - Ordered it from here though"
> 
> I find the whole situation stupid still.
> And I would buy it off you, if I was in the US.


Lol, she told me to go buy a Pistol (Army Prior service).







I have been wanting one for a LONG time. I really have gotten in a funk and I need to get outdoors more. This would help me do this.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> Is it needed to patch the nvidia drivers for overclocking?
> 
> I'm not using CRU but im using catleap drivers and overclocking directly from Nvidia CP.
> 
> Everything works except i cant get higher then 106hz without getting green lines on the screen.


Without the patch i doubt you will get much higher than 106hz a lot don't get much higher than 96hz without the patch!.....so yes if you want to go higher up to 120hz you will need to patch!...and if you are using SLI you will need the full patch *nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe*...also below i have put my Qnix monitor driver if you want to download and use that instead of the catleap driver...and yes i would recommend using the monitor driver method and using NVCP to create your custom resolutions as CRU uses EDID overrides that conflicts with Nvida Geforce experience...i hope this helps









qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## LJOE

What's up fellow overclockers!
It's been a while since my last post but I put in my order for a single input xstar from dream seller and was wondering if anyone has recently received a unit from this seller. I purchased on the 6th and should have it delivered by tomorrow. Any common problems from the units coming from dream seller?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Well the wife and I talked. The Qnix is getting sold off. I really need to find another outlet other than computers.
> 
> Ok now that's decided, should I open it up and test it for BLB and dead pixels? or should I leave it sealed and let the buyer do that?


Which QNIX did you buy ?

I'll be buying my display at the end of May.

That might be much longer than you'd want to wait though.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Which QNIX did you buy ?
> 
> I'll be buying my display at the end of May.
> 
> That might be much longer than you'd want to wait though.


This one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUI44US/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Probably gonna mess with it tomorrow.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> This one.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUI44US/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Probably gonna mess with it tomorrow.


I swear the QINIX is 8ms G2G not 6ms?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Just wanted to tune in and report, from an official owner of one of these bad boys, that these monitors are great.

I bought my X-Star from dream-seller on Ebay (my location is USA) and it does 120Hz with a few tiny hiccups here and there (96Hz & 60Hz perfect).

Any questions for me?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I swear the QINIX is 8ms G2G not 6ms?


The box says 8ms.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> The box says 8ms.


Time to claim it against amazon for false advertising then


----------



## LJOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Just wanted to tune in and report, from an official owner of one of these bad boys, that these monitors are great.
> 
> I bought my X-Star from dream-seller on Ebay (my location is USA) and it does 120Hz with a few tiny hiccups here and there (96Hz & 60Hz perfect).
> 
> Any questions for me?


Did you buy the cheaper one or the pixel perfect? I paid $279 shipped, I am a little concerned because of the delay on this shipment and the fact that Dreamseller emailed me to explain that they were having quality issues.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> Did you buy the cheaper one or the pixel perfect? I paid $279 shipped, I am a little concerned because of the delay on this shipment and the fact that Dreamseller emailed me to explain that they were having quality issues.


I'm in Same boat as you. Got a few messages regarding quality issues. My monitor should also be here tomorrow. I also paid 279 shipped.

I'm trying to be optimistic. I see it as a good thing he is telling us about quality issues. He is doing what MOST American companies don't do and that's communicate with the buyer.

Also if he is aware of bad quality I'm sure he has taken the time to ensure we get decent displays...If not ebay will have our side.


----------



## LJOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> I'm in Same boat as you. Got a few messages regarding quality issues. My monitor should also be here tomorrow. I also paid 279 shipped.
> 
> I'm trying to be optimistic. I see it as a good thing he is telling us about quality issues. He is doing what MOST American companies don't do and that's communicate with the buyer.
> 
> Also if he is aware of bad quality I'm sure he has taken the time to ensure we get decent displays...If not ebay will have our side.


Good Point! I hope they dedicated some extra time to ensure that we receive a good panel


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Just wanted to tune in and report, from an official owner of one of these bad boys, that these monitors are great.
> 
> I bought my X-Star from dream-seller on Ebay (my location is USA) and it does 120Hz with a few tiny hiccups here and there (96Hz & 60Hz perfect).
> 
> Any questions for me?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you buy the cheaper one or the pixel perfect? I paid $279 shipped, I am a little concerned because of the delay on this shipment and the fact that Dreamseller emailed me to explain that they were having quality issues.
Click to expand...

I bought the cheapest one that was Matte.

My monitor definitely has back bleed, and a bit more than my Dell IPS, but it is not a deal breaker in anyway (as in I would still buy this monitor again if had the need for a 2nd one).
Stuck / Dead pixels are not an issue. I would never know if any existed unless I actually blaired a white image on fullscreen and went searching with a magnifying glass.

I bought mine around 4 months back, though, so I can't help you with any current issues by the seller.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> Good Point! I hope they dedicated some extra time to ensure that we receive a good panel


I asked dream-seller to ensure I had a quality panel shipped to me and asked them to double check it... hopefully good things are in store for both of us!


----------



## apexhunter

FWIW: My experience with dream-seller

I ordered from dream-seller on the 4th and only received it yesterday, it took 2 weeks from order to delivery. It was shipped on the 11th, a week after ordering.
That said, communication was very satisfactory apart from the fact that he responded to emails only the next day and only once a day.
And best of all, I got an almost perfect panel with no dead pixels and very minor BLB. So I would say the wait was worth it. However, there was no extra protection apart from the box and even that was damp/damaged in a few places. However, the monitor itself is fine.
It also OCs perfectly up to 120Hz. However, I am keeping it at 116.64Hz so that the pixel clock is 450.02MHz.
All in all, very satisfied with my purchase and the difference is very noticeable coming from my 1080p 32" Samsung LED TV.
The only reason I would advise against dream-seller is if you want it quick. He uses FedEx International Economy that took a whole week to deliver the monitor. I think some other sellers use UPS which takes two days from Korea. I know for a fact that MNW Global (on Amazon) ships using UPS, and most people have reported receiving it in two days.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Without the patch i doubt you will get much higher than 106hz a lot don't get much higher than 96hz without the patch!.....so yes if you want to go higher up to 120hz you will need to patch!...and if you are using SLI you will need the full patch *nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe*...also below i have put my Qnix monitor driver if you want to download and use that instead of the catleap driver...and yes i would recommend using the monitor driver method and using NVCP to create your custom resolutions as CRU uses EDID overrides that conflicts with Nvida Geforce experience...i hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file


*Thanks for the answer







*

I did everything you wrote, changed the driver applied the patch and was able to get a little higher. 112hz is perfectly stable from 113 to 116 works but i get a few green scan lines every now and then, 120 is a big no as you can see in the pick:




i even tried to adjust setting in manual as you showed in one of your post tho Nvidia CP doesnt have all the options as CRU to adjust. I changed the stock cable with a PureLink Gold Plated one and still nothing changed guess i'll have to settle at 112 hz but i can live with that









P.S. here is a pick with the Ergotron stand for who asked it......taking off the stock stand wasn't as easy as i thought.....but its doable


----------



## hogofwar

Does anyone have experience with the delivery time for ta.korea.global?

(to the uk?)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the delivery time for ta.korea.global?
> 
> (to the uk?)


took 4 days from red-cap for me.
Was via Fedex.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the delivery time for ta.korea.global?
> 
> (to the uk?)


Took around 15 days for me to Italy don't know bout uk but id expect around 10 business days at least.


----------



## LJOE

Thanks for your input @apexhunter. Makes me feel much better about my purchase. I hope my monitor comes with minimal issues:thumb:


----------



## anthonyg45157

How long has everyone's monitors been in alaska? Mine has said International shipment release - Import for almost 24 hours... Supposed to be here(ohio) in 24 hours...


----------



## LJOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> How long has everyone's monitors been in alaska? Mine has said International shipment release - Import for almost 24 hours... Supposed to be here(ohio) in 24 hours...


It has been in alaska just over 24 hours for me. It's supposed to be in Tampa by tomorrow as well.


----------



## Watagump

I am happy to report that my monitor did indeed arrive today. The box had a zero dead pixel sticker on it, right now, it appears to be flawless. I am running at 96hz, haven't tried higher YET.


----------



## Watagump

Update, 120hz isn't going to happen. 110hz gets accepted, but frame skipping test says its fails, even though I cant see a failure.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> How long has everyone's monitors been in alaska? Mine has said International shipment release - Import for almost 24 hours... Supposed to be here(ohio) in 24 hours...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> It has been in alaska just over 24 hours for me. It's supposed to be in Tampa by tomorrow as well.


I guess all of ours are in the same shipping crate. Mine's in Alaska also.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Update, 120hz isn't going to happen. 110hz gets accepted, but frame skipping test says its fails, even though I cant see a failure.


If the test tells you it's not valid, it just means that you can't trust the results of the test. If the test tells you it's valid, it just means that you can trust the results. Try turning off desktop composition for your browser to see if that helps.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Seems like they take awhile to update tracking after customs. Everyone seems to be getting their monitors on time.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> If the test tells you it's not valid, it just means that you can't trust the results of the test. If the test tells you it's valid, it just means that you can trust the results. Try turning off desktop composition for your browser to see if that helps.


110 was getting a white line flashing on the screen on occasion, 96hz is fine for me.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Seems like they take awhile to update tracking after customs. Everyone seems to be getting their monitors on time.


The package was moving faster than the tracking heh. DHL was right on the money after I got the text.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> 110 was getting a white line flashing on the screen on occasion, 96hz is fine for me.


Wonder if the screens have been more intolerant of overclocking of late. Not sure of the numbers, but there's been a rash of people reporting an inability to get to 120hz recently.

Don't quote me on that! I'm idly speculating. We aren't anywhere near something that could represent a trend.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Wonder if the screens have been more intolerant of overclocking of late. Not sure of the numbers, but there's been a rash of people reporting an inability to get to 120hz recently.
> 
> Don't quote me on that! I'm idly speculating. We aren't anywhere near something that could represent a trend.


120 was just plain ugly, tons of green lines.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> *Thanks for the answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> I did everything you wrote, changed the driver applied the patch and was able to get a little higher. 112hz is perfectly stable from 113 to 116 works but i get a few green scan lines every now and then, 120 is a big no as you can see in the pick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i even tried to adjust setting in manual as you showed in one of your post tho Nvidia CP doesnt have all the options as CRU to adjust. I changed the stock cable with a PureLink Gold Plated one and still nothing changed guess i'll have to settle at 112 hz but i can live with that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. here is a pick with the Ergotron stand for who asked it......taking off the stock stand wasnt as it easy as i thought but its doable


I am sorry you can not get any higher than 112mhz....However 112 is still very good indeed!... Also you would be hard press to see any difference between 112hz-120hz









BTW: i like your monitor stand very nice indeed


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I am sorry you can not get any higher than 112mhz....However 112 is still very good indeed!... Also you would be hard press to see any difference between 112hz-120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW: i like your monitor stand very nice indeed


Tnx bro i love the stand too









And yes 112 hz is great


----------



## Watagump

Just ordered the Monoprice stand, lets just call it Bigfoot. I could actually drive over and will call it, but gas would cost me more than the $5.90 shipping, it will be here tomorrow.


----------



## hogofwar

Comeon ta.korea, ship!


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Comeon ta.korea, ship!


I've sent an email to check but I suspect it's gonna be at least a week, maybe 2!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ajm261

So I just got my 27" Qnix 2710 Evolution II monitor. First off let me say, I've been reading this forum for quite sometime while debating if I should pull the trigger or not. Not only was I inspired to join the forum (rare for me), but I also went ahead and bought the monitor off ebay from hulustar. I can't believe how fast it shipped, I ordered it last Thursday and it arrived to my door in Michigan on Monday (5 days). I've been reading a handful of guides on how to overclock it to 120hz, and after a whole bunch of turmoil and trial and error I finally got it to work. 120hz steady, and games run it at that refresh rate as well. 2560x1440 wallpapers look amazing, and I seem to of found a solid color profile as well. Here's my issue, it may be a noob one at that, but it's causing me some grief.

When I first boot my system, it loads with the 2560x1440 @ 60hz by default. As soon as I touch my Asus GPU Tweak (usually to adjust GPU fan speed), the screen flashes and I get a GPU Tweak message asking if I want to keep the current refresh rate. I click OK. I go into the Nvidia control panel, and my resolution is 2560x1440 @ 60hz and 16bit. I change to 32 bit, and the 120hz option becomes available. Once I apply, I lose my color profile. I have to open the DisplayProfile program I downloaded and reload my color profile. Once all is done, everything is beautiful.

Maybe it's wishful thinking, but is there a way to have my custom settings (2560x1440 @ 120hz 32bit) load by default instead of having to reapply them every time I reboot? This is a new rig as well, so I'm constantly rebooting while installing programs and it's getting rather annoying. I'd really appreciate any input

My Specs:
Intel I7 3770k
Asus Z77 V-Pro
Asus GTX 680
8GB Gskill RipJaw DDR3 1600
Samsung 840 Pro 512GB SSD


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Hello everyone! Firstly, thanks for this great thread, I am learning a lot from it.
> 
> I mostly play flight simulators and I was thinking of upgrading my triple-monitor setup and was looking at 27" monitors at 2560x1440 resolutions and came upon the Korean monitor concept and stumbled onto here. I am currently reading my way down the thread but still at page 15.
> 
> I was thinking of buying 3 27" monitors but it seems like a setup for one monitor will not be good for another. Or each monitor will OC to different levels. Or have different alignment issues. I wonder if anyone here has bought 3 monitors for a three-screen setup (I know at least a couple members have) and what issues there are trying to make 3 screens work nice with each other?
> 
> Also, you guys seem to be really hardcore with your monitors; I've never had to color-adjust mine. Can I ask why you would OC a monitor from 60Hz to 120Hz?
> 
> Has anyone had to send back their monitor and how did they do it? I see some that guarantee zero bad pixels and also say they pay for return postage (eBay sellers).
> 
> Lastly, are there any methods or tricks or instructions to give to sellers so that I don't get ripped off in customs/taxes? I live in the UK.... if that fact isn't obvious yet!


I actually have three of the QNIX 2710's. I haven't tried overclocking above 96hz, but all three run at 96Hz with no problems. You will need a very good video card (or SLI/Crossfire) if you're going to try playing games at high settings at 7860x1440. My first one was a Pixel Perfect, the other two were not. All look great with no bad pixels or noticeable backlight bleed. The colors are off slightly between the first one and the other two, but I find that once I'm in a game, I don't notice it at all.

Good luck with whatever you decide.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> LOL, but of course!
> 
> Annd he associated the ICC Profile.. and IT WAS BRILLIANT!
> 
> Thanks for the help guys...
> 
> Unrelated... My triple monitor stand comes with bolts that are either too huge, too big, or too small to use the spacers...
> 
> See pic of mount with 'smaller' screws, that are still not small enough:
> 
> 
> Image of smaller screw in spacer:
> 
> 
> And then, this.. After taking apart my Qnix.. I noticed this incredible bend in the frame.. It's quite remarkable.. There's no way I just did that, right? It's the flaw of these monitors, and why they're cheap, right? Tell me I'm right please, and that I didn't just bend this thing...


My triple stand didn't have any spacers, but the screws were too long. Ended up going to a local hardware store and buying shorter ones (after trying to tighten one that was too long and having to take the monitor apart (again) to remove it.) Interesting enough, the screws worked fine on one of the monitors, but not the other two.


----------



## ajm261

Fixed my own problem. Seems everything loads the way it should by default, for some reason Asus GPU Tweak tries to change my settings back. It still flashes the screen and asks if I want to keep the refresh rate (apparently GPU Tweak is the culprit changing it back to 60hz), If I just click no it flashes again and everything is gravy. Annoying none the least, but at least I don't have to reload everything


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajm261*
> 
> Fixed my own problem. Seems everything loads the way it should by default, for some reason Asus GPU Tweak tries to change my settings back. It still flashes the screen and asks if I want to keep the refresh rate (apparently GPU Tweak is the culprit changing it back to 60hz), If I just click no it flashes again and everything is gravy. Annoying none the least, but at least I don't have to reload everything


GPU Tweak sucks, if you really need something for overclocking etc, get something else. If you don't, then just remove it.


----------



## ajm261

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> GPU Tweak sucks, if you really need something for overclocking etc, get something else. If you don't, then just remove it.


I'm not overclocking, I just like having control over the fan speeds and temperature monitoring. I used to have a GTX 470, and am forever paranoid of heat issues. If you know of another program, I'm all ears


----------



## wntrsnowg

Havent stopped by in a while but im glad to see this thread is still so alive!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajm261*
> 
> I'm not overclocking, I just like having control over the fan speeds and temperature monitoring. I used to have a GTX 470, and am forever paranoid of heat issues. If you know of another program, I'm all ears


I was using afterburner, played around with precision x also. My cards are stock, so, I now use nothing. I have never had a GPU overheat, fans need to fail for that to happen.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Comeon ta.korea, ship!


Hear hear!


----------



## ajm261

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I was using afterburner, played around with precision x also. My cards are stock, so, I now use nothing. I have never had a GPU overheat, fans need to fail for that to happen.


The first generation Fermi's were notorious for being hot. Not knowing any better, I tried playing Metro 2033 with two GTX 470's in SLI. I could hear my cards revving like crazy, checked the temps and they were at 102 C. Ever after that, I had to manually set the fans on them to 80% just to avoid temps going over 80-85c. I've been paranoid about heat ever since. My GTX 680 has none of those problems, but I still can't relax playing a game without having an idea what my temps are.

On a related note, I noticed Nvidia Control Panel has an update that allows GPU tuning (Performance Group). I'm assuming installing it would undo all the drivers I just installed to overclock, but does anyone know if thats the case?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajm261*
> 
> I'm not overclocking, I just like having control over the fan speeds and temperature monitoring. I used to have a GTX 470, and am forever paranoid of heat issues. If you know of another program, I'm all ears


Then get HWmonitor - any "tweak" software or any crap like that should be uninstalled lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Havent stopped by in a while but im glad to see this thread is still so alive!


Nice to have you back!


----------



## Balsagna

USPS has been failing me with the monitor delivery. It was supposed to be here yesterday, was shipped USPS Priority 2-day... yeah, say that when it was shipped Thursday. lol

Priority isn't very high on the priority list... stupid USPS - It's in the town, just have to get it delivered.


----------



## Watagump

It figures, now that I have my monitor, storewithstory has dropped the price, $319.90, I paid $325 using best offer.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoubleC*
> 
> Just registered to thank you all for this thread!
> 
> I ordered a perfect pixel (in germany was cheaper than non-perfect pixel from other sellers (~240€+40€ tax)) QNIX 2710 single input monitor from ebay seller storewithstory on thursday and it was delivered yesterday.
> 
> Got a perfect monitor without any dead pixels and without any visible backlight bleeding. Stable oc refresh rate out of the box about 108hz. Haven't played around much with different settings, maybe capable of more.
> 
> Again: Thank you for this thread and the amount of information & feedback given in it!


Welcome to the club.

Plug in the timings that Lawson67 has posted multiple times in this thread and I bet you will hit 120Hz.









Do make sure you have used the appropriate patches for your setup first, as explained in the op though.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It figures, now that I have my monitor, storewithstory has dropped the price, $319.90, I paid $325 using best offer.


Oh no. You never keep checking the price after you already bought something. That will drive you nuts. Lol


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Oh no. You never keep checking the price after you already bought something. That will drive you nuts. Lol


Actually, I do it all the time in case something goes on sale that has a price guarantee. I got a friend $300 back on a TV doing that.


----------



## Osteoman

True. I agree in that situation. But not in this one. Lol. Great monitors though. Love it.


----------



## Watagump

People that have the Monoprice stand, do the screws that come with it work, or will I need to buy some? One reviewer said he needed to buy 3mm x 10mm.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Props to fed ex. Although there tracking was off, I have been notified my packed in in indianapolis only a couple hours away. My 279$ xstar from dream-seller will be here tomorrow
..beyond excited.


----------



## jjmuldoon

Big thanks to Digital Force for the quick review on the 10bit monitors. I was able to cancel my order prior to shipping. Saved me the hassle of trying to return or or sell it online.


----------



## DoubleC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> Welcome to the club.
> 
> Plug in the timings that Lawson67 has posted multiple times in this thread and I bet you will hit 120Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do make sure you have used the appropriate patches for your setup first, as explained in the op though.


I tried Lawson67's timings but still receive artifacts at anything higher than 108hz








But i'm still quite happy with running at a save 96hz with a nice ICC from the the start thread









And just for my personal understandings of the current TRUE10 10bit monitors: Just Quadro and the Firepro can run 10bit at the moment, right? Are there any gains for the "normal" user at the moment?


----------



## hogofwar

So much for shipping last night....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Here's a reply by red cap on the 10bit:
Dear
sorry for delay on respond
we just got an answer from the manufacuturer about skip frame ( HDMI to Xbox at 1080p )
they told that the problem is the cabel compatibility issue and recommend to use another cable ( there are a kinds of cables )
and Qnix gaurantees about overclock only for true 10 model but other models are not recommended and they doesn't guarantee.
the reason you want to return the monitor is only that there is skip frame when using Xbox at 1080p , right?
we confirmed with Qnix that there is no problem at all and they open the opportunity for overclock only for true10.

thank you

Sincerely yours Red-Cap


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Here's a reply by red cap on the 10bit:
> Dear
> sorry for delay on respond
> we just got an answer from the manufacuturer about skip frame ( HDMI to Xbox at 1080p )
> they told that the problem is the cabel compatibility issue and recommend to use another cable ( there are a kinds of cables )
> and Qnix gaurantees about overclock only for true 10 model but other models are not recommended and they doesn't guarantee.
> the reason you want to return the monitor is only that there is skip frame when using Xbox at 1080p , right?
> we confirmed with Qnix that there is no problem at all and they open the opportunity for overclock only for true10.
> 
> thank you
> 
> Sincerely yours Red-Cap


This is not going to go well.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Here's a reply by red cap on the 10bit:
> Dear
> sorry for delay on respond
> we just got an answer from the manufacuturer about skip frame ( HDMI to Xbox at 1080p )
> they told that the problem is the cabel compatibility issue and recommend to use another cable ( there are a kinds of cables )
> and Qnix gaurantees about overclock only for true 10 model but other models are not recommended and they doesn't guarantee.
> the reason you want to return the monitor is only that there is skip frame when using Xbox at 1080p , right?
> we confirmed with Qnix that there is no problem at all and they open the opportunity for overclock only for true10.
> 
> thank you
> 
> Sincerely yours Red-Cap


So it looks from what he wrote at from spec listed (in the pic below) that producer guarantees OC on the new panels to 120hz......basicly if you buy one of the new "True 10" models and it doesn't OC to 120hz you can send it back?



Hmmmm


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> This is not going to go well.


My first thought was, "that is crap", but your sentiment fits also.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> So it looks from what he wrote at from spec listed (in the pic below) that producer guarantees OC on the new panels to 120hz......basicly if you buy one of the new "True 10" models and it doesn't OC to 120hz you can send it back?
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmm


If they don't acknowledge skipped frames there's going to be trouble.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> This is not going to go well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> So it looks from what he wrote at from spec listed (in the pic below) that producer guarantees OC on the new panels to 120hz......basicly if you buy one of the new "True 10" models and it doesn't OC to 120hz you can send it back?
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmm


BS:
Dear
you can return the monitor but the return shipping fee is your charge
with our fedex account , it is $130
please confirm that so that we can send you the invoice for shipping fee.

thank you
Sincerely yours
Red-Cap

*- Right - he wants to play this game, time to play the hard game - going to open up a ebay case.*


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> BS:
> Dear
> you can return the monitor but the return shipping fee is your charge
> with our fedex account , it is $130
> please confirm that so that we can send you the invoice for shipping fee.
> 
> thank you
> Sincerely yours
> Red-Cap
> 
> *- Right - he wants to play this game, time to play the hard game - going to open up a ebay case.*


Best of luck!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Best of luck!


Pisses me off - he knows there's a problem and refuses to accept the refund.
That really annoys me.
Oh well. On the phone with eBay now - I'll see what they say/do.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> So much for shipping last night....


I sent an email yesterday afternoon to see if there was any idea when it may be shipped, got the response below:-

_Hi
We can ship it this week. Thursday or Friday.
After we ship the tracking number will be updated.
You can check from here: http://www.track-trace.com/post
Please wait for the delivery time.
Thank you so much._

As per the comments yesterday, I can't fault the communication really, I just think you have to be patent at the minute - something I'm not good at


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> I sent an email yesterday afternoon to see if there was any idea when it may be shipped, got the response below:-
> 
> _Hi
> We can ship it this week. Thursday or Friday.
> After we ship the tracking number will be updated.
> You can check from here: http://www.track-trace.com/post
> Please wait for the delivery time.
> Thank you so much._
> 
> As per the comments yesterday, I can't fault the communication really, I just think you have to be patent at the minute - something I'm not good at


You bought it on monday or something, right? Mine will probably be shipped at the same time.

Thanks for asking!


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> You bought it on monday or something, right? Mine will probably be shipped at the same time.
> 
> Thanks for asking!


Yeah, bought Monday 6am UTC


----------



## LJOE

My monitor is finally at the Fed ex facility here in Tampa should be delivered sometime today and hopefully with minimal flaws.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'm actually laughing right now.
So I asked Fedex - how much would it cost if I went directly via you to send back the monitor?
"Ryan : You looking at over £250.00 if you booked it directly with us"

£250?
Would be almost cheaper fore me to fly there and deliver the monitor hahahahaha
How do companies like this make money!?

He said $130 sound about right, with a seller account.
So these sellers are paying $130 per monitor to send them out!?


----------



## bluedevil

Doing some initial testing, wow the colors are amazing! Now whats the best way to test an OC on this beast?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Pisses me off - he knows there's a problem and refuses to accept the refund.
> That really annoys me.
> Oh well. On the phone with eBay now - I'll see what they say/do.


Did they offer anything useful?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Did they offer anything useful?


Nop - I need to wait for the case to "close" so that I can claim my money back.
Seller has till the 25th to respond.

I bet they'll say: We accept the refund but you need to pay postage, which is unacceptable in every stretch of my imagination. If the monitor is faulty (say it has a defect) why should I pay a single penny back? It's not my fault, it's the reseller, or manufacturer.

My mum was telling me I should just take the monitor, open, test it etc and then if I don't like it sell it on.
I would do that, but instead of getting fedex to deliver it and/or me opening the box (so incurring restocking fees if it were to be accepted for a return)

I'm out of pocket by £220 right now. I'm not at all happy.

First a gumtree seller scamming me on a GTX680 sale, now this.
£360 or so is with paypal/ebay right now, and I do't have any of the items.


----------



## Osteoman

Hey, I have been reading some of you guys have been having to buy adapters or use your own for the PS.

I bought from Excellentcastle 4-5 weeks ago and the correct power cord was in the box for the US. No adapter or anything, just the correct cord like I had bought it in the US.

Just thought I would mention that for anyone interested.


----------



## killer0014

Just a "silly" question, does qnix has an official website? Can't find it anywhere.....


----------



## anthonyg45157

My monitor will be here today! Let's hope dream-seller did me good!


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killer0014*
> 
> Just a "silly" question, does qnix has an official website? Can't find it anywhere.....


http://q-nix.co.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=driver from the first post, but it seems to be down/changed.


----------



## killer0014

1 day to go.....


----------



## GamerGER

I bought a ulitmate perfect pixel qnix from excellentcastle for 305€ in total. Took ups about 4 days to get it to my city and 2 days to get it to my doorsteps.

The monitor itself is truely perfect, i got no dead/stuck pixel and close to no backlight bleeding so ulitmate perfect is kind of on spot here









* edited money


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nop - I need to wait for the case to "close" so that I can claim my money back.
> Seller has till the 25th to respond.
> 
> I bet they'll say: We accept the refund but you need to pay postage, which is unacceptable in every stretch of my imagination. If the monitor is faulty (say it has a defect) why should I pay a single penny back? It's not my fault, it's the reseller, or manufacturer.
> 
> My mum was telling me I should just take the monitor, open, test it etc and then if I don't like it sell it on.
> I would do that, but instead of getting fedex to deliver it and/or me opening the box (so incurring restocking fees if it were to be accepted for a return)
> 
> I'm out of pocket by £220 right now. I'm not at all happy.
> 
> First a gumtree seller scamming me on a GTX680 sale, now this.
> £360 or so is with paypal/ebay right now, and I do't have any of the items.


Thankfully you're still covered by ebay/paypal!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GamerGER*
> 
> I bought a ulitmate perfect pixel qnix from excellentcastle for 295€ in total. Took ups about 4 days to get it to my city and 2 days to get it to my doorsteps.
> 
> The monitor itself is truely perfect, i got no dead/stuck pixel and close to no backlight bleeding so ulitmate perfect is kind of on spot here


yup I put in an offer with them - can't be bothered to wait on red-cap no more.
Did you have any customs charges etc?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Thankfully you're still covered by ebay/paypal!


Well, don't know if I am really.
If they can't resolve it I'll call eBay - as it is ridiculous.


----------



## GamerGER

i payed 269€ for the monitor itself and 35,40€ customs to the ups guy.


----------



## GamerGER

and i can now say mine runs at 120hz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GamerGER*
> 
> i payed 269€ for the monitor itself and 35,40€ customs to the ups guy.


Cool, thanks for let me know - and what was it sent as?
A gift/reduced price or full price?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GamerGER*
> 
> and i can now say mine runs at 120hz


Without skipping frames?


----------



## Chowchilla

X-STAR DP2710 seem to be a good price now.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221239034169


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I actually have three of the QNIX 2710's. I haven't tried overclocking above 96hz, but all three run at 96Hz with no problems. You will need a very good video card (or SLI/Crossfire) if you're going to try playing games at high settings at 7860x1440. My first one was a Pixel Perfect, the other two were not. All look great with no bad pixels or noticeable backlight bleed. The colors are off slightly between the first one and the other two, but I find that once I'm in a game, I don't notice it at all.
> 
> Good luck with whatever you decide.


Ah thanks! What card do you have? Also, how do you connect them all to your GPU? 2 of my monitors connect direct DVI-DVI but the other two connect via DVI to miniDP adaptor (active). I wonder if these monitors would play nice with an adaptor. AFAIK, no GPU offers 3 DVI outputs on a single card.

I might order one pixel perfect and the rest would be regular ones, and I hope if there are problems with the regular ones, I'll just claim its the pixel perfect version they sent me. I was initially thinking of having to order all 3 monitors at once from the same seller, but since the price does include shipping, well, ordering all 3 doesn't really "save" me anything, right? Might just order 2 for now and see how things go. Any thoughts?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> X-STAR DP2710 seem to be a good price now.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221239034169


It isn't pixel perfect and:
"
With FedEx and EMS shipping, under-valuing is not possible. According to FedEx and EMS shipping policy.
Only the actual price must be declared.
Therefore, even if you ask us for under-valuing, if the product is being shipped out via FedEx and EMS,
we can't do under-valuing, and custom taxes will be levied on buyer's side. Please be aware of this notification.

We are not responsible any applicable customs charge, taxes and duties.
These fees are not included in the item price or shipping cost. Such fees are to be paid by the buyer."


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Ah thanks! What card do you have? Also, how do you connect them all to your GPU? 2 of my monitors connect direct DVI-DVI but the other two connect via DVI to miniDP adaptor (active). I wonder if these monitors would play nice with an adaptor. AFAIK, no GPU offers 3 DVI outputs on a single card.
> 
> I might order one pixel perfect and the rest would be regular ones, and I hope if there are problems with the regular ones, I'll just claim its the pixel perfect version they sent me. I was initially thinking of having to order all 3 monitors at once from the same seller, but since the price does include shipping, well, ordering all 3 doesn't really "save" me anything, right? Might just order 2 for now and see how things go. Any thoughts?


I'm running 780 TI's in SLI, so I have plenty of DVI ports. I do have a DVI powered adaptor that I use from a different computer to one of mine through a dual link KVM switch, so I know they will work through an adaptor. I haven't tried to do surround on one card, so don't know if it would work. As far as ordering three at the same time: The prices have been so variable, it might be a good idea to get all three if you get a good price.


----------



## hogofwar

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171265170897

Seems to be the same stand mentioned in the first post, the HP OEM Stand.

Just linking if anyone is interested.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> It isn't pixel perfect and:
> "
> With FedEx and EMS shipping, under-valuing is not possible. According to FedEx and EMS shipping policy.
> Only the actual price must be declared.
> Therefore, even if you ask us for under-valuing, if the product is being shipped out via FedEx and EMS,
> we can't do under-valuing, and custom taxes will be levied on buyer's side. Please be aware of this notification.
> 
> We are not responsible any applicable customs charge, taxes and duties.
> These fees are not included in the item price or shipping cost. Such fees are to be paid by the buyer."



Perfect Pixel] X-STAR DP2710 LED 27" QHD 2560x1440 Samsung PLS Panel "Matt" seems to indicate it is perfect pixel, at least from a sellers perspective








I though most if not all UK deliveries were done by FedEx and EMS?


----------



## snapdragon

Am looking for a monitor for Photo editing. I have been looking for the Qnix True10 since it has multiple ports. What concerns me are the following.

1) I dont see a lot of perfect pixel version in the True 10 Qnix
2) It uses a different panel than the regular qnix DVI-D. And so I am not sure how the the color rendition is. Qnix has been tested well for it out of the box color accuracy. Other wise I have to spend a $200 on a colorimeter.

The true 10 panel is similar to the one used in the benq BL2710Pt. And saw the review of it and it looks a little less Saturated when compared to the Qnix (review done by NCX) And he mentioned a standard setting is good but in use setting has limitations in the color correction you can do. Now am wondering what Qnix guys have used

I had a Qnix single port and it was great except that it had a scratch. Now I am looking for a multiport.

*Anyone who has got the True 10 it would be great if you guys could add in a mini review.*

Thanks


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Am looking for a monitor for Photo editing. I have been looking for the Qnix True10 since it has multiple ports. What concerns me are the following.
> 
> 1) I dont see a lot of perfect pixel version in the True 10 Qnix
> 2) It uses a different panel than the regular qnix DVI-D. And so I am not sure how the the color rendition is. Qnix has been tested well for it out of the box color accuracy. Other wise I have to spend a $200 on a colorimeter.
> 
> The true 10 panel is similar to the one used in the benq BL2710Pt. And saw the review of it and it looks a little less Saturated when compared to the Qnix (review done by NCX) And he mentioned a standard setting is good but in use setting has limitations in the color correction you can do. Now am wondering what Qnix guys have used
> 
> I had a Qnix single port and it was great except that it had a scratch. Now I am looking for a multiport.
> 
> *Anyone who has got the True 10 it would be great if you guys could add in a mini review.*
> 
> Thanks


TFTCentral have a full review of the TRUE10 coming very soon.
Quote:


> TFTCentral ‏@TFTCentral Feb 20
> Should be receiving the new QNIX "QX2710 LED Evolution II DP Multi True 10" monitor in early March for review


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> 
> Perfect Pixel] X-STAR DP2710 LED 27" QHD 2560x1440 Samsung PLS Panel "Matt" seems to indicate it is perfect pixel, at least from a sellers perspective
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I though most if not all UK deliveries were done by FedEx and EMS?


I don't think all are no. As for the pixel prefect, if you read description 0 to 2 are acceptable. Not for me though


----------



## darxider

can't believe it. it's being delivered 1day:5hr after being picked up by FedEx...that's impressive! and accessorieswhole shipped it less than four hours after i placed my order.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Ah thanks! What card do you have? Also, how do you connect them all to your GPU? 2 of my monitors connect direct DVI-DVI but the other two connect via DVI to miniDP adaptor (active). I wonder if these monitors would play nice with an adaptor. AFAIK, no GPU offers 3 DVI outputs on a single card.
> 
> I might order one pixel perfect and the rest would be regular ones, and I hope if there are problems with the regular ones, I'll just claim its the pixel perfect version they sent me. I was initially thinking of having to order all 3 monitors at once from the same seller, but since the price does include shipping, well, ordering all 3 doesn't really "save" me anything, right? Might just order 2 for now and see how things go. Any thoughts?


I have just tried what would be your setup ie: Three monitors on one card (mine being a 780TI) using two DVI and a DP to DVI adaptor. It works fine in NVIDIA surround. I am actually in that configuration right now as I type this. I'm going to shutdown and go back to my normal setup since this is a PITA due to water cooling...


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> can't believe it. it's being delivered 1day:5hr after being picked up by FedEx...that's impressive! and accessorieswhole shipped it less than four hours after i placed my order.


Meanwhile I have to wait until thursday or friday for mine to ship.


----------



## Tibag

Looks like accessorieswhole are still the best in reliability! Very quick and always true perfect pixel!

One day I will pull the trigger, one day.


----------



## bluedevil

Is there a patch for AMD cards? Having trouble getting to 96hz.


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I'm running 780 TI's in SLI, so I have plenty of DVI ports. I do have a DVI powered adaptor that I use from a different computer to one of mine through a dual link KVM switch, so I know they will work through an adaptor. I haven't tried to do surround on one card, so don't know if it would work. As far as ordering three at the same time: The prices have been so variable, it might be a good idea to get all three if you get a good price.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I have just tried what would be your setup ie: Three monitors on one card (mine being a 780TI) using two DVI and a DP to DVI adaptor. It works fine in NVIDIA surround. I am actually in that configuration right now as I type this. I'm going to shutdown and go back to my normal setup since this is a PITA due to water cooling...


Thanks very much for confirming that! However, I would've asked you to do TWO displays thru an adaptor and then one through DVI if possible, but nevermind. At the moment, I have my two center screens (a top one and a bottom one) on DVI and my two side screens on adaptors. I wonder if you've gamed on that setup that you just did though?

Your GPU is rated a bit higher than my 7970 but I'm not a "60fps chaser" plus I play an old-ish flight sim so as long as my frames are steady above 30, I'll be happy. Can you please confirm what monitors you have and which seller you bought them from? Where are you located and how much was the customs cost?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## aaaflyer

Hmmm new model qnix true 10?

Anyone cares to explain what is this virtual 4k and the problem of skipped frame is?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Thanks very much for confirming that! However, I would've asked you to do TWO displays thru an adaptor and then one through DVI if possible, but nevermind. At the moment, I have my two center screens (a top one and a bottom one) on DVI and my two side screens on adaptors. I wonder if you've gamed on that setup that you just did though?
> 
> Your GPU is rated a bit higher than my 7970 but I'm not a "60fps chaser" plus I play an old-ish flight sim so as long as my frames are steady above 30, I'll be happy. Can you please confirm what monitors you have and which seller you bought them from? Where are you located and how much was the customs cost?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


The first one I bought through NewEgg from a company called 27 Korea Monitors.
The second and third I bought at the same time through Ebay from - gn_wholesale.

I live in the US, so had no customs fees.

I don't have time this afternoon, but if you can wait till tomorrow, I can run a test with all three using a 7970 setup with three adaptors and one DVI. I have a 7970 sitting in a box I can use, probably with my test computer instead of my main one.

What flight simulator are you using? Theres a good chance I have it. I have a separate rig I use for driving and flight simulators. It has just a single 28" monitor. (http://www.hotseatsim.com/Products/HotSeatFlightSim/HotSeatFlightSimProductLine/tabid/73/Default.aspx)


----------



## hogofwar

How well will a 780 ti handle a qnix and a generic 1080p monitor anyway?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> How well will a 780 ti handle a qnix and a generic 1080p monitor anyway?


really, really well.


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The first one I bought through NewEgg from a company called 27 Korea Monitors.
> The second and third I bought at the same time through Ebay from - gn_wholesale.
> 
> I live in the US, so had no customs fees.
> 
> I don't have time this afternoon, but if you can wait till tomorrow, I can run a test with all three using a 7970 setup with three adaptors and one DVI. I have a 7970 sitting in a box I can use, probably with my test computer instead of my main one.
> 
> What flight simulator are you using? Theres a good chance I have it. I have a separate rig I use for driving and flight simulators. It has just a single 28" monitor. (http://www.hotseatsim.com/Products/HotSeatFlightSim/HotSeatFlightSimProductLine/tabid/73/Default.aspx)


I fly mainly FSX with ORBX scenery, DCS A10C, and Falcon BMS. FSX I fly mainly with just my top-central 24" as I use the other screens for checklists and stuff, but hope to use all 3 when/if I get these new 27"


----------



## Nostras

Whenever I to increase the resolution refresh rate >120Hz it looks like Nvidia control panel doesn't apply the settings at all nor does it save the settings when I tell it to do so. Someone got a clue?

Or is it a limitation with graphics cards?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> Hmmm new model qnix true 10?
> 
> Anyone cares to explain what is this virtual 4k and the problem of skipped frame is?


Virtual 4K - ignore it, it's the same thing as downsampling from a forced 4K resolution in software; it can already be done by video cards in software and have zero (absolutely zero) benefit to do it in hardware.

Skipped frame means that the monitor effectively doesn't overclock, and claims to the contrary are either ignorant, misinformed, or outright lies.


----------



## GamerGER

i dont know what excellentcastle marked the item as... i was expecting around 300 for everything so i was good with what i had to pay.

i tested with the ufo page and took a picture with my camera and can say no frameskipping legit 120hz


----------



## Nostras

Err, scrap previous post. It seems there's a small bug in the control panel.

Seems my monitor caps at 129Hz stable. 130Hz has some very minor artifacts, 131Hz has minor artifacts too, but a lot more annoying. 132Hz+ is undoable.

Can't complain









Someone got some settings for 130Hz+? Might just be using wrong settings


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Err, scrap previous post. It seems there's a small bug in the control panel.
> 
> Seems my monitor caps at 129Hz stable. 130Hz has some very minor artifacts, 131Hz has minor artifacts too, but a lot more annoying. 132Hz+ is undoable.
> 
> Can't complain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone got some settings for 130Hz+? Might just be using wrong settings


130hz? Dayme son.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> really, really well.


Don't the 780 Ti's have a terrible price-to-performance ratio compared to the 780's ?


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 130hz? Dayme son.


Ya, I'm very surprised.
I'd get some very minor artifacts ( flashing coloured lines while gaming every now and then ) @120 Hz with my 7970 Matrix.
After snagging a 780Ti Windforce OC for cheap it runs 120Hz flawless and even manages to do 129Hz. I'm honestly very surprised, I didn't buy the card expecting a better refresh rate. I thought the card didn't matter. Apparently I was wrong. It does.

At 130Hz with the 780Ti I get the same level as artifacting as I got at 120Hz with my 7970 Matrix.

Fyi, I'm using the cable that came with the monitor, I seriously doubt cable quality is a limiting factor.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Don't the 780 Ti's have a terrible price-to-performance ratio compared to the 780's ?


In some respect, but the added performance boost is pretty considerable for that extra price you pay for it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Ya, I'm very surprised.
> I'd get some very minor artifacts ( flashing coloured lines while gaming every now and then ) @120 Hz with my 7970 Matrix.
> After snagging a 780Ti Windforce OC for cheap it runs 120Hz flawless and even manages to do 129Hz. I'm honestly very surprised, I didn't buy the card expecting a better refresh rate. I thought the card didn't matter. Apparently I was wrong. It does.
> 
> At 130Hz with the 780Ti I get the same level as artifacting as I got at 120Hz with my 7970 Matrix.
> 
> Fyi, I'm using the cable that came with the monitor, I seriously doubt cable quality is a limiting factor.


wow that's interesting! Thanks for sharing


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Don't the 780 Ti's have a terrible price-to-performance ratio compared to the 780's ?


I would say yes. My 780 lightning is more powerful than a 780ti with small overclock. . An overclocked ti will defeat my 780. I'm getting 3114 valley score with my 780 at 1315 mhz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> I would say yes. My 780 lightning is more powerful than a 780ti with small overclock. . An overclocked ti will defeat my 780. I'm getting 3114 valley score with my 780 at 1315 mhz


But isn't a 780 lighting's price between a 780ti and 780 anyway?


----------



## bluedevil

Ok I am full out testing this QX2710 now, any good BLB and dead pixel tests that I can do?


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> can't believe it. it's being delivered 1day:5hr after being picked up by FedEx...that's impressive! and accessorieswhole shipped it less than four hours after i placed my order.


...and i have it; delivered 1 day and 13 hours after i placed an order! how is that even possible? but i had to pay $44 customs tax. i haven't opened the box yet (it's very well-packed, btw); had to go to work.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> ...and i have it; delivered 1 day and 13 hours after i placed an order! how is that even possible? but i had to pay $44 customs tax. i haven't opened the box yet (it's very well-packed, btw); had to go to work.


What, the, fark...

And TA-Korea is just sitting there, doing his thing. Still not sending my monitor!







It's been 192 hours already! >:[


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> What, the, fark...
> 
> And TA-Korea is just sitting there, doing his thing. Still not sending my monitor!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's been 192 hours already! >:[


It's thursday already for them!


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> But isn't a 780 lighting's price between a 780ti and 780 anyway?


Depends.
Cheapest 780 here is the gigabyte/msi 780 OC with aftermarket cooler for 430€, 780 lightning is 475€. The cheapest 780Ti here is also the gigabyte 780Ti OC and the 780 MSI TF OC, both are 580€. De lightning isn't that much more expensive than the 780 itself and arguably worth the cash.

I got my 780Ti for 480€ which is definetely by far the better card compared to the lightning.

Kinda sucks the 290X lightning is so stupidly expensive, if it was priced at like ~550 I wouldn't have hesitated at all, but 620€ is just too much.

All prices include taxes.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> ...and i have it; delivered 1 day and 13 hours after i placed an order! how is that even possible? but i had to pay $44 customs tax. i haven't opened the box yet (it's very well-packed, btw); had to go to work.


you in the US?
If so - there isn't supposed to be any sort of tax or VAT - there's a trade agreement between S.Korea and the US.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Depends.
> Cheapest 780 here is the gigabyte/msi 780 OC with aftermarket cooler for 430€, 780 lightning is 475€. The cheapest 780Ti here is also the gigabyte 780Ti OC and the 780 MSI TF OC, both are 580€. De lightning isn't that much more expensive than the 780 itself and arguably worth the cash.
> 
> I got my 780Ti for 480€ which is definetely by far the better card compared to the lightning.
> 
> Kinda sucks the 290X lightning is so stupidly expensive, if it was priced at like ~550 I wouldn't have hesitated at all, but 620€ is just too much.
> 
> All prices include taxes.


Are those new prices or used prices?
500€ is a good price for a 780ti!

As for the 290X - I remember when it was released - I should have bought one lol. Bit-coin mining for you...


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> But isn't a 780 lighting's price between a 780ti and 780 anyway?


I paid 529 for my lightning. .. 549 with 20 mail in rebate... so 20$ more than a reference 780 at the time. Still 200$ cheaper than 780ti.


----------



## Ovrclck

Does anyone have the link to the thread on here that has the video motion tweaks? I rem it made videos and movies look realistic like 120/240Hz tv's. Thanks!


----------



## Watagump

Some info for those who might get the Monoprice stand. The screws that come with it will work to mount the Vesa plate, you will just have to add some washers, they are too long and don't tighten down fully without the washers. I also took the power brick and used electrical tape to attach it to the bar of the stand, gives a nice clean look since you can hide the DVI cable and power cord behind the bar. Dont be too jealous of my Jack In The Box bobble head.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Some info for those who might get the Monoprice stand. The screws that come with it will work to mount the Vesa plate, you will just have to add some washers, they are too long and don't tighten down fully without the washers. I also took the power brick and used electrical tape to attach it to the bar of the stand, gives a nice clean look since you can hide the DVI cable and power cord behind the bar. Dont be too jealous of my Jack In The Box bobble head.


Picture of the back (with washers?)?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> I paid 529 for my lightning. .. 549 with 20 mail in rebate... so 20$ more than a reference 780 at the time. Still 200$ cheaper than 780ti.


that's a brilliant price!
My 2 680s would have cost me:
£140 + £220 = £360 / $600


----------



## Balsagna

Hey all,

So I got my monitor finally and I'm trying to overclock it. I'm not able to select 120hz or anything. I tried using the CRU.EXE in the first post and I changed the profile to 120hz as seen here:

http://prntscr.com/32a8x2

But after rebooting and everything and even with the profile at what it says it's at, I go to the site in the thread to check what hertz I'm at and it just stays at 60.

Nvidia controlpanel also does not allow me to select any refresh rates despite me installing the patcher. I have 2x GTX 680's in sli, I have also tried disabling SLI and trying.

What's the catch?

EDIT: Yeah, I still can't get it. I did have my 2nd monitor plugged up to it, but I took that off and I still can't overclock... or am I missing something?


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> you in the US?


Canada...hence, the tax! they love taxes here


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> Canada...hence, the tax! they love taxes here


Haha, yes









It's sales tax (HST/PST/GST) though, not customs.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> Canada...hence, the tax! they love taxes here


ah damn it!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Picture of the back (with washers?)?


You can also see the power brick taped up.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Monoprice stand, QNIX 2710 from excellent-castle.

Zero stuck/dead pixels, used a spare set of nuts to act as washers (just the right size)

Am ecstatic.


----------



## Balsagna

Figured it out.

OP should add in there for Nvidia users to disable a setting to get it to work. It's in the instructions on that side, but it's very important, ought to be in the first post as well

Working at 120hz :yay


----------



## Balsagna

Nevermind x2. Not sure if it's really at 120hz or not...

Nvidia control panel has it listed at 120hz. But when using that site again, it still just says 60. Is there another way to test or am I supposed to do something different to get it to 120hz?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Nevermind x2. Not sure if it's really at 120hz or not...
> 
> Nvidia control panel has it listed at 120hz. But when using that site again, it still just says 60. Is there another way to test or am I supposed to do something different to get it to 120hz?


Try testing only a single monitor. If you only have a single monitor, try turning off desktop composition for whatever internet browser you're using.


----------



## Balsagna

Single monitor:

http://prntscr.com/32ao8c

http://prntscr.com/32aoj0

And the refresh program is also saying 120hz. - What am I doing wrong?


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Does anyone have the link to the thread on here that has the video motion tweaks? I rem it made videos and movies look realistic like 120/240Hz tv's. Thanks!


Hi BGKris, not sure if you found it already. If not, the link is below







:
Smooth Video Project


----------



## Nostras

Does it say so as well when you set the refresh rate using windows' "screen resolution"?
You're not using IE by any chance, are you?

Maybe try using chrome?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hi BGKris, not sure if you found it already. If not, the link is below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> Smooth Video Project


dude!! Yes! Thanks!! +Rep!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Single monitor:
> 
> http://prntscr.com/32ao8c
> 
> http://prntscr.com/32aoj0
> 
> And the refresh program is also saying 120hz. - What am I doing wrong?


Umm, for mine when I open the NVCP I see a custom resolution option above your native, create a custom resolution also in the NVCP. Click the customize thing, go in there, you will see a create custom resolution tab. You are using the native one, I think that is your problem.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajm261*
> 
> So I just got my 27" Qnix 2710 Evolution II monitor. First off let me say, I've been reading this forum for quite sometime while debating if I should pull the trigger or not. Not only was I inspired to join the forum (rare for me), but I also went ahead and bought the monitor off ebay from hulustar. I can't believe how fast it shipped, I ordered it last Thursday and it arrived to my door in Michigan on Monday (5 days). I've been reading a handful of guides on how to overclock it to 120hz, and after a whole bunch of turmoil and trial and error I finally got it to work. 120hz steady, and games run it at that refresh rate as well. 2560x1440 wallpapers look amazing, and I seem to of found a solid color profile as well. Here's my issue, it may be a noob one at that, but it's causing me some grief.
> 
> When I first boot my system, it loads with the 2560x1440 @ 60hz by default. As soon as I touch my Asus GPU Tweak (usually to adjust GPU fan speed), the screen flashes and I get a GPU Tweak message asking if I want to keep the current refresh rate. I click OK. I go into the Nvidia control panel, and my resolution is 2560x1440 @ 60hz and 16bit. I change to 32 bit, and the 120hz option becomes available. Once I apply, I lose my color profile. I have to open the DisplayProfile program I downloaded and reload my color profile. Once all is done, everything is beautiful.
> 
> Maybe it's wishful thinking, but is there a way to have my custom settings (2560x1440 @ 120hz 32bit) load by default instead of having to reapply them every time I reboot? This is a new rig as well, so I'm constantly rebooting while installing programs and it's getting rather annoying. I'd really appreciate any input
> 
> My Specs:
> Intel I7 3770k
> Asus Z77 V-Pro
> Asus GTX 680
> 8GB Gskill RipJaw DDR3 1600
> Samsung 840 Pro 512GB SSD


What software are you using to load the profile?


----------



## LJOE

Alright guys,

I am a happy camper! I just received my Xstar from dream seller and I have zero complaints so far. Back light bleed is very minimal and I can see only a single green pixel on an all black screen, doesn't bother me a bit.
I used Nvidia control panel to make a custom resolution to set the refresh to 96hz with no problems. Havent experimented any further yet:thumb:


----------



## overture1928

My Qnix 2710 looks like it is melting on the inside. At the top edge there is like this sticky plastic inside that is melting or unraveling. Anybody experience this? Pics to come.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Does it say so as well when you set the refresh rate using windows' "screen resolution"?
> You're not using IE by any chance, are you?
> 
> Maybe try using chrome?


Says this:

http://prntscr.com/32beui

And I tried checking to see if there were more hidden. Just 59/60hz.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Umm, for mine when I open the NVCP I see a custom resolution option above your native, create a custom resolution also in the NVCP. Click the customize thing, go in there, you will see a create custom resolution tab. You are using the native one, I think that is your problem.


Created a custom resolution at 96hz. I still get 60 on that test. I also tried every browser (I'm a web developer so I have them all)

I just don't think it's enabling. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Says this:
> 
> http://prntscr.com/32beui
> 
> And I tried checking to see if there were more hidden. Just 59/60hz.


You did patch the drivers, right?
Anyhow, if it's not showing in windows screen resolution, you're obviously doing something wrong.


----------



## snorbaard

My monitor is overclocked to 120 Hz is it possible to view 3D video files using active shutter glasses? I have a AMD graphics card. The information is vague and the last time I read up on it it was very confusing, mind you I tried to get 3D to work on my DLP projector but that was just too much of a hassle so I eventually just gave up.


----------



## anthonyg45157

My monitor has arrived! Only 45 minutes after fedex estimated. Not bad at all! Give me a few hours and I'll report back.

Fingers crossed!

Send me good vibes !!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Created a custom resolution at 96hz. I still get 60 on that test. I also tried every browser (I'm a web developer so I have them all)
> 
> I just don't think it's enabling. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.


Look at your NVCP vs mine, you show 2560x1440 native as being selected. On mine I have a custom 2560x1440 above the PC section where you have the native selected. Like I said, I went into that area along with using CRU and created custom resolutions inside the NVCP. I have my custom right at the top, its the only one right now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Submitted offers, got counter-offers:
$360 incl postage:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331134376244?item=331134376244&autorefresh=true

I've countered at $350 incl postage.

$390 incl postage:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831&autorefresh=true

For this one, I've got no offers left, so either I accept it or decline.


----------



## Balsagna

Either the guide is wrong, or I'm missing something. What am I missing is the question:

Updated to latest drivers per step 1:
http://prntscr.com/32bosh

re-patched the drivers and rebooted
patched: http://prntscr.com/32bpbz

Downloaded and installed and created a custom resolution using that program and then rebooted

http://prntscr.com/32bs6e

Then, when I try to create a custom resolution using the NVCP - I get this:

http://prntscr.com/32btjg

And then, when you do check the NVCP to see if you have the drop down to select 120hz. I do have it, like so: http://prntscr.com/32btuv

And finally, this is what it looks like when I have it all selected: http://prntscr.com/32bu5k

But, when you go and run the test - I get this.... every freaking time.... http://prntscr.com/32bubp

*** is going on! It's making me angry now lol. I followed the directions correctly.


----------



## hogofwar

And here I was offering $340 for the excellentcastle one before.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Either the guide is wrong, or I'm missing something. What am I missing is the question:
> 
> Updated to latest drivers per step 1:
> http://prntscr.com/32bosh
> 
> re-patched the drivers and rebooted
> patched: http://prntscr.com/32bpbz
> 
> Downloaded and installed and created a custom resolution using that program and then rebooted
> 
> http://prntscr.com/32bs6e
> 
> Then, when I try to create a custom resolution using the NVCP - I get this:
> 
> http://prntscr.com/32btjg
> 
> And then, when you do check the NVCP to see if you have the drop down to select 120hz. I do have it, like so: http://prntscr.com/32btuv
> 
> And finally, this is what it looks like when I have it all selected: http://prntscr.com/32bu5k
> 
> But, when you go and run the test - I get this.... every freaking time.... http://prntscr.com/32bubp
> 
> *** is going on! It's making me angry now lol. I followed the directions correctly.


Did you turn off desktop composition?


----------



## Balsagna

I also went ahead and created a custom resolution of 96hz for testing purposes in the NVCP just as Watagump suggested - and I still see nothing past 60hz.


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Did you turn off desktop composition?


Why should this be necessary? It worked straight out of the box for me.

Wait a sec, what monitor you got?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Why should this be necessary? It worked straight out of the box for me.


Because sometimes it helps. *shrug* Don't ask me why, I just know it does.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Did you turn off desktop composition?


Yes - I did that as well. I can screenshot that as well if you'd like...

http://prntscr.com/32bx2x


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Why should this be necessary? It worked straight out of the box for me.
> 
> Wait a sec, what monitor you got?


QNIX


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> QNIX


Yea, that helps. /s


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Yea, that helps. /s


QNIX QX2710 Glossy version. I bought it from a user here who was getting 120hz etc on it. It SEEMS to be at what it needs to be according to all the settings, even through windows I can see the custom resolution on there with 120hz. but no matter what hz I give it, i still see 60hz on the site.

Maybe, I should try bumping it to like 130hz or something where I know it's not going to work to see if it's actually applying?

EDIT:: Nothing happens when I go past 120hz. Like, I can't even make a refresh rate past 120 lol


----------



## Balsagna

Can someone export me their CRU profile setup they're using at 120hz? Or any in general. I can Import it and try that out


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I also went ahead and created a custom resolution of 96hz for testing purposes in the NVCP just as Watagump suggested - and I still see nothing past 60hz.


Do you see the CUSTOM section about the PC section like I do in the image? I am also using the drivers before the latest, if that matters.


----------



## Watagump

If I do the same thing as you, I get the same result, clicking the 2560x1440 NATIVE, only shows a 60hz option.


----------



## Watagump

Just out of curiosity, I deleted CRU, I was still able to create custom resolutions just using NVCP, why do we need CRU again?


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, I deleted CRU, I was still able to create custom resolutions just using NVCP, why do we need CRU again?


Pretty sure you need it for AMD.
Noticed you don't need it for Nvidia though.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Pretty sure you need it for AMD.
> Noticed you didn't need it for Nvidia though.


Seems so, I did use it before when I had my 7950. But the monitor was a no go for overclocking.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Do you see the CUSTOM section about the PC section like I do in the image? I am also using the drivers before the latest, if that matters.


Yes, I have that - Everything is the same as everyone else. It just doesn't seem to be applying or I just don't notice it at all. I'm going to try to restore to yesterday and then retry all of this without using that stupid toasty program lol.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Yes, I have that - Everything is the same as everyone else. It just doesn't seem to be applying or I just don't notice it at all. I'm going to try to restore to yesterday and then retry all of this without using that stupid toasty program lol.


Have to tried running any games to see if they see the higher hz? I checked all your images you linked, I saw nothing like mine where it says a custom above the 2560x1440 native. Not sure why they are different.


----------



## Balsagna

How would they see the higher hz? With Vertical Sync on correct?


----------



## Balsagna

I'm doing a restore from last night and trying all of this over again in the morning. I got a 12 hour shift so I got plenty of time in the morning. But thanks for the help today guys


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> How would they see the higher hz? With Vertical Sync on correct?


Vsync will sync it to the higher hz. I always use vsync.


----------



## Balsagna

That's what I thought, but wanted to make sure sure it wasn't just going to do 60hz.

Try out that site in the first post and make sure you're not getting 60 and it's not just a liar.

I did everything right, so it either doesn't apply for what ever reason or that site is cheeky lol. I will try some games tomorrow. Most likely league of legends since I can easily hit 120


----------



## Nostras

In some games ( like bf4 ) you can change and view the refresh rate. In other games you'll have to check your fps with VSYNC on. Should be at least 60.


----------



## Watagump

Black Ops 2 locked at 96hz vsync on.


----------



## Watagump

BF4 2560x1440 96hz.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Finally, I can get on this.



Only thing that annoys me is that the seller hasn't responded to ANY messages.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Finally, I can get on this.
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing that annoys me is that the seller hasn't responded to ANY messages.


Well thats who I bought mine from, but never sent any messages. They did provide feedback quickly, also shipped fast.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Finally, I can get on this.
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing that annoys me is that the seller hasn't responded to ANY messages.


Nice, I was going to make a $330 offer to excellentcastle last week before dream-seller shipped mine. Now I wonder if he would have accepted.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Well thats who I bought mine from, but never sent any messages. They did provide feedback quickly, also shipped fast.


Sweet, looking forward to it - and yeah saw you ordered so I'm hoping it comes in the same good condition as yours.
Let's not forget I still got to sort out the true10 one with red-cap. I really hope I get my money, in full.
If eBay doesn't help me towards that ridiculously high return postage, then I'll be "forced" to keep the true 10 or sell it in the UK.
I could give it to my mum that said...hmmm - I doubt she would care though. Smaller icons with her eyesight isn't something she would honestly like lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Nice, I was going to make a $330 offer to excellentcastle last week before dream-seller shipped mine. Now I wonder if he would have accepted.


Excellentcastle "offered" me $390 incl postage....lol - I refused.


----------



## Balsagna

You mean should Atleast be 120 instead of 60 if it's vsyncing correctly right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> In some games ( like bf4 ) you can change and view the refresh rate. In other games you'll have to check your fps with VSYNC on. Should be at least 60.


at


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> You mean should Atleast be 120 instead of 60 if it's vsyncing correctly right?
> at


If you get the monitor to overclock to 120hz it wont go over that with vsync on. Minimum FR is going to depend on settings used and your GPU horsepower.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I'm doing a restore from last night and trying all of this over again in the morning. I got a 12 hour shift so I got plenty of time in the morning. But thanks for the help today guys


Good luck. I am not using CRU or any other extra software, just Nvidia Control Panel. I have three of these and can set each to 96hz using the custom settings you've already done. I put them in surround and they stayed at 96hz, I tested each individually and with my browser (Chrome) spread across all three, and the UFO test page showed 96-96. So I have to wonder if another program on your computer is interfering with the settings/performance.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Guess I spoke too soon!
storewithstory got back to me after my purchase:
"thank you for your purchase.
We will mark as a gift and declare low price like USD100.
This monitor is Ultimate perfect pixel
so does not have any dead or stuck pixel.
about backlight bleeding, we will test but on black screen issue is normal."


----------



## Cyalume

Youtube doesn't work after patching the GPU drivers to overclock my QNIX 2710. What is the fix to this? I couldn't find it in the OP.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Youtube doesn't work after patching the GPU drivers to overclock my QNIX 2710. What is the fix to this? I couldn't find it in the OP.


Its a known issue when using the ATI patch.

Modifying the AMD/ATI driver breaks HDCP support and may cause issues with video playback:

Green screen with Flash video: disable hardware acceleration in the Flash Player settings.
Green screen with video playback: disable video acceleration (DXVA) in the video player or decoder.

siberx Wrote:I would just like to add that if you're trying to do video playback with media player classic (I was using homecinema) and you're getting a green screen, you don't need to switch your renderer to alleviate the problem. You simply need to go to the "Internal Filters" section of the options for MPC and uncheck DXVA. You can then leave the renderer on EVR or whatever it was set to before.

Black screen with HDTV playback in Windows Media Center:
Set the video decoder to "AMD Video Decoder" (or "ATI MPEG Video Decoder" in older versions) using this program: Media Center Decoder Utility

GPU scaling does not work on 5000-series GPUs if the pixel clock is greater than 363.63 MHz.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Xstar monitor from dream-seller is great! I have 1 stuck red pixel.. can only see on total black. No back light bleed which is what I was more worried about. I used the Asus icc color profile from the op and this thing looks AMAZING! WHAT a deal for 279$!

I also overclocked to 96hz. 120 gave me green lines..I tried some of law sons timings but still got green lines.

Any questions I'll be glad to answer.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Xstar monitor from dream-seller is great! I have 1 stuck red pixel.. can only see on total black. No back light bleed which is what I was more worried about. I used the Asus icc color profile from the op and this thing looks AMAZING! WHAT a deal for 279$!
> 
> I also overclocked to 96hz. 120 gave me green lines..I tried some of law sons timings but still got green lines.
> 
> Any questions I'll be glad to answer.


Try massaging the pixel, if its stuck, might be able to bring it back.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Try massaging the pixel, if its stuck, might be able to bring it back.


how long would you suggest, i tried that pixel fixer thing and i massaged for about 30 seconds... nothing yet...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> how long would you suggest, i tried that pixel fixer thing and i massaged for about 30 seconds... nothing yet...


Hard to say really, gotta mess with pressures etc. Sometimes you just cant fix them.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Hard to say really, gotta mess with pressures etc. Sometimes you just cant fix them.


should screen be on or off?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> should screen be on or off?


I did it once a long time ago with it on, that way you can see if its gone.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I did it once a long time ago with it on, that way you can see if its gone.


thanks but no go, just rubbbed for 5 minutes...oh well ill forget about it eventually


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> thanks but no go, just rubbbed for 5 minutes...oh well ill forget about it eventually


You will try again.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You will try again.


already have 100 more times


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> already have 100 more times


Another option. Java based so you may need to install that.

http://www.jscreenfix.com/basic.php


----------



## apexhunter

Quick tip of you guys use Chrome on Windows and are using these monitors:
Go to chrome:\\flags and Enable DirectWrite
There is a noticeable difference in the text rendering.
Sorry if this has been mentioned before, ignore in such a case.
**Disclaimer: May only be on the alpha and beta channels. I do not have the stable version on my computer. Beta is more than good enough for me, and alpha gives me google now notifications on my computer.


----------



## Osteoman

Totally Dubbed,

It's amazing to me Excellent castle wanted $390 now. I bought my Ultimate PP maybe five weeks ago from him for an offer I gave to him of $330. I did see within a week or two after that he was no longer taking $330 but was taking $340.


----------



## okashira

My "true glossy" came from dream-seller.

It has perfect (no) backlight bleeding.
no "dead" pixels
Does 120Hz (with mild shimmering on grey and uneven brightness, esp in upper left)

But on a black screen... there are a multitude of these little pixel defects. small white/greenish dots. There is a streak of them toward the middle. About 25 total I'd say.

Pics:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sz93ajmb4miorvr/XqzHgQyRYn
I didnt capture all the dots.

What do you guys think? I was not expecting all those defects.
I sent dream seller a message with the pics.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *okashira*
> 
> My "true glossy" came from dream-seller.
> 
> It has perfect (no) backlight bleeding.
> no "dead" pixels
> Does 120Hz (with mild shimmering on grey and uneven brightness, esp in upper left)
> 
> But on a black screen... there are a multitude of these little pixel defects. small white/greenish dots. There is a streak of them toward the middle. About 25 total I'd say.
> 
> Pics:
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sz93ajmb4miorvr/XqzHgQyRYn
> I didnt capture all the dots.
> 
> What do you guys think? I was not expecting all those defects.
> I sent dream seller a message with the pics.


As I said on the H forums, not acceptable.


----------



## Forceman

Well, I got my X-star from dream_seller, and it appears to be pixel perfect, but...



Something is seriously wrong with the backlight. Looks like the frame is really pushed in close to screen in that corner (looking down along the screen from the top), but I guess it's not worth trying to fix myself. So ff to eBay to contact the seller. Sucks, after the cheap price and waiting a week for shipment, for there to be such an obvious flaw.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Well, I got my X-star from dream_seller, and it appears to be pixel perfect, but...
> 
> 
> 
> Something is seriously wrong with the backlight. Looks like the frame is really pushed in close to screen in that corner (looking down along the screen from the top), but I guess it's not worth trying to fix myself. So ff to eBay to contact the seller. Sucks, after the cheap price and waiting a week for shipment, for there to be such an obvious flaw.


So this is what they consider testing to make sure its good to be sold?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> So this is what they consider testing to make sure its good to be sold?


Yeah, I don't know if it got damaged in shipping or what. The box was fine, but of course it was only in the retail box so not a lot of protection.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Yeah, I don't know if it got damaged in shipping or what. The box was fine, but of course it was only in the retail box so not a lot of protection.


Its pretty hard to notice, so most likely they just missed it during testing.







My box was in good shape, all it had was foam wrapped around it.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Its pretty hard to notice, so most likely they just missed it during testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My box was in good shape, all it had was foam wrapped around it.


Can't decide whether it's worth taking the bezel off to see if there is something obviously fixable wrong, like a loose connection on a bank of LEDs or something, or just leave it be. My rational side says let it go, but the tinkering side says do it.


----------



## crazycoward

Sorry to veer you guys off topic but i have a question.

I just got offered a used LG-27EA83R-D for $400 CDN (cash)
-3 weeks old, includes reciept for the rest of the 3 year warranty.
-i'll be able to test for dead pixels and bleeding when i buy.

For $400 CDN do you guys think it'll be worth it over any of the $300-350 USD korean monitors? (assuming there are no problems with it)


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazycoward*
> 
> I just got offered a used LG-27EA83R-D for $400 CDN (cash)


Only if you check for LED PWM Dimming (read about the side effects) with a cellphone (



) or with this test since the non R versions either uses an insultingly low 130hz frequency or is PWM free. Super low frequencies cause obvious flicker when viewing certain colors and increase motion blur. Also the launch non R 27EA83D's had really high input lag (30ms), which LG later fixed, and I bet that the first 27EA83R-D's also had really high input lag and used PWM.

A PWM free 27EA83R-D for 400$ is a good deal, but multi-input monitors can't overclock and you should check LG Canada's warranty on the LG site since the warranty might not be transferable.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Finally, I can get on this.
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing that annoys me is that the seller hasn't responded to ANY messages.


Bah, I should have done that.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Can't decide whether it's worth taking the bezel off to see if there is something obviously fixable wrong, like a loose connection on a bank of LEDs or something, or just leave it be. My rational side says let it go, but the tinkering side says do it.


Taking the bezel off is a total piece of cake.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Taking the bezel off is a total piece of cake.


I watched those videos in the OP and it looks pretty easy, but it also looks like the LED strip is one piece without any obvious plugs or anything that may be loose. So unless it is just misaligned, or blocked by something, I don't know if there is anything I can fix.

Dream-seller already approved a return for refund or replacement, so I guess I'll just do that. Now to decide whether to ask him to replace it for the $279 price, or go somewhere else for an ultimate perfect pixel.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Dream-seller already approved a return for refund or replacement, so I guess I'll just do that. Now to decide whether to ask him to replace it for the $279 price, or go somewhere else for an ultimate perfect pixel.


Return it.


----------



## hogofwar

I think I may cancel the ta.korea monitor and go with the ultimate perfect pixel with store with story for a $330 offer.

Better warranty too...

I wouldn't be able to have the squaretrade warranty as easilya t least though...


----------



## snapdragon

The Glossy X-star. Menacing Tuba May we know how much you paid for it. Link too


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> May we know how much you paid for it. Link too


For mine?

The listing has actually ended: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171236516279?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Bought it for £216.17, free shipping on monday, but hasn't shipped yet.

Dammit, apaprently you didn't mean me, oh well.

Still interesting to find that it ended early, it was supposed to end in april?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Finally, I can get on this.
> 
> 
> 
> Only thing that annoys me is that the seller hasn't responded to ANY messages.


Top dog! might have to go for this deal as well. was shipping included?

you know, i never thought to ask.. how well will a GTX 770 hold up at 1440p? my main reason for wanting a monitor with is a scaler so i can bump down to 1080 if needed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I watched those videos in the OP and it looks pretty easy, but it also looks like the LED strip is one piece without any obvious plugs or anything that may be loose. So unless it is just misaligned, or blocked by something, I don't know if there is anything I can fix.
> 
> Dream-seller already approved a return for refund or replacement, so I guess I'll just do that. Now to decide whether to ask him to replace it for the $279 price, or go somewhere else for an ultimate perfect pixel.


what's wrong with your monitor ? Price wise you won't find better than what you've got. Might be better to arrange a replacement for that price?
Edit, was on phone didn't see, now I saw. Yeah get that replaced or refunded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I think I may cancel the ta.korea monitor and go with the ultimate perfect pixel with store with story for a $330 offer.
> 
> Better warranty too...
> 
> I wouldn't be able to have the squaretrade warranty as easilya t least though...


I'm going to call square trade when i get mine in. It's not a problem or an issue in that respect
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Top dog! might have to go for this deal as well. was shipping included?
> 
> you know, i never thought to ask.. how well will a GTX 770 hold up at 1440p? my main reason for wanting a monitor with is a scaler so i can bump down to 1080 if needed.


a 770 is like my 680, just a little better. It will cope fine, but if you start running games like bf4 you'll have to turn down the qualify to make it run at 50-60 fps.
That's why I decided to go sli to get and maintain a higher fps or get a better quality.
Shipping was $20 bro, so 360 all included. I'll let you know how much customs are when it comes


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I think I may cancel the ta.korea monitor and go with the ultimate perfect pixel with store with story for a $330 offer.
> 
> Better warranty too...
> 
> I wouldn't be able to have the squaretrade warranty as easilya t least though...


Yeah, also didnt get a tracking number yet? I'm gonna wait for TA-Korea but I'm not ordering there again. Communication is minimal and what they communicate isn't true. (Like shipping will be tomorrow, 3 days ago).


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> Yeah, also didnt get a tracking number yet? I'm gonna wait for TA-Korea but I'm not ordering there again. Communication is minimal and what they communicate isn't true. (Like shipping will be tomorrow, 3 days ago).


I've actually already attempted a cancel.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> *** QNIX DP10True Initial Testing Results *** I know this is quick and dirty but I wanted you guys to get some info before I headed to bed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More to come -- Questions welcome


How did you get on with your return buddy?

Used your image in my eBay case. Hope you don't mind


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I've actually already attempted a cancel.


I asked for them to cancel and the next day they refunded me. It will take around 7 days for the money to get back to you.. And it goes to your PayPal account not straight into the bank.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Wow
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Well, I got my X-star from dream_seller, and it appears to be pixel perfect, but...
> 
> 
> 
> Something is seriously wrong with the backlight. Looks like the frame is really pushed in close to screen in that corner (looking down along the screen from the top), but I guess it's not worth trying to fix myself. So ff to eBay to contact the seller. Sucks, after the cheap price and waiting a week for shipment, for there to be such an obvious flaw.


Wow that's terrible. I feel for you my friend. Mine has no lighting issues. .I can't even tell a difference in color at 96 hz.

I would take my 1 stuck red pixel over that any day. Please let me know what dream seller says


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> How did you get on with your return buddy?
> 
> Used your image in my eBay case. Hope you don't mind


I am sending it back today. They found it hard to believe there was something wrong with it. Either way, they agreed to take it back. They said if they tested it and nothing was wrong, I'd have to pay return shipping, otherwise, I'd get a full refund. It was all worked out in VERY broken English...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I am sending it back today. They found it hard to believe there was something wrong with it. Either way, they agreed to take it back. They said if they tested it and nothing was wrong, I'd have to pay return shipping, otherwise, I'd get a full refund. It was all worked out in VERY broken English...


ouch! You would have to pay $130 in return shipping if that's the case.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I've actually already attempted a cancel.


From reading these forums, I understand that all the sellers are in a similar position with supply and demand.

Yeah you could cancel and try from another seller, but what happens if you end up in a similar position with them, just because they seem to have stock at the minute and fulfilling orders quickly, doesn't mean it will be the same with your order.

I know its frustrating, but I'll give TA till next week before making a decision. I've already cancelled one after a week with Dream-Seller and now regretting that as if I was more patient I may have had the monitor by now.


----------



## hogofwar

Storewithstory just accepted my offer of $330 as well.

Is there a time limit for me to pay? I would like to confirm I am getting a refund from the other seller first.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Top dog! might have to go for this deal as well. was shipping included?
> 
> you know, i never thought to ask.. how well will a GTX 770 hold up at 1440p? my main reason for wanting a monitor with is a scaler so i can bump down to 1080 if needed.


You will be fine with the 770. You might have to bump settings down a little. Also, you can add another one for SLI and it will scream. I have 2 GTX 770 4GB Classifieds and I can hit 120fps in every game I play at full settings except I turn AA off or low.

Also, you don't have to worry about the monitor not scaling as your vid. card will scale down to 1080 if you want to. The monitor doesn't have to do it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Storewithstory just accepted my offer of $330 as well.
> 
> Is there a time limit for me to pay? I would like to confirm I am getting a refund from the other seller first.


Usually you can pay when you want - I think it might be 48hrs, but I'm not sure


----------



## Balsagna

Yeah, so I'm home again - I restored my computer from before I got the monitor and I still can't overclock it at all, or my computer is just lying. I noticed a color change for sure when I 'overclock it'. But there is nothing that's telling me that it's overclocked. A site, a game that I know I can hit a constant 120fps or any fps over 60 for that matter... nothing.

I am running sli, does it matter which port I use as in card on top or card on bottom?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Yeah, so I'm home again - I restored my computer from before I got the monitor and I still can't overclock it at all, or my computer is just lying. I noticed a color change for sure when I 'overclock it'. But there is nothing that's telling me that it's overclocked. A site, a game that I know I can hit a constant 120fps or any fps over 60 for that matter... nothing.
> 
> I am running sli, does it matter which port I use as in card on top or card on bottom?


yeah you need to use the non star connection. The dvi d port is the straight one. Dvi-I is the star one.
You got the single port version of the qnix right?


----------



## Balsagna

Yes. And I just tried it on both... same thing


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Yes. And I just tried it on both... same thing


wth...That's weird bro. Where did you buy it from? Could you contact the seller? I don't think anyone has been unable to oc their monitors here.
Out of curiosity do you have two monitors attached? As that's known to limit it to 60hz


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> wth...That's weird bro. Where did you buy it from? Could you contact the seller? I don't think anyone has been unable to oc their monitors here.
> Out of curiosity do you have two monitors attached? As that's known to limit it to 60hz


I do have 2 monitors and I bought it from a user here on OCN. He was selling 3 of them. Anyways, I already tried unhooking the other monitor as well - I'm stumped man, this is getting to me now lol.

This is just my luck - something is probably stopping it. I am literally going to screen record me doing this and showing everyone that I'm doing it right,.... or I'm a ****** and clearly missing an obvious point.


----------



## moehunter

I have a new i7 Build with a GIGABYTE Radeon R7 250 OC PCI Express 3:0 Card and the monitor does not work with this card? I put it on a 10year old sys I use for testing and it works fine?

Is there a posted List for what everyone is using for V cards for this monitor?

Thanks, moe


----------



## Balsagna

I'm stumped, I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. I literally did this ver batum...

1. Restored PC.

2. Reinstalled drivers and rebooted.

3. Went to NVCP > Resolutions > Created a custom resolution with 120hz > Applied (screen did dim a bit and I could tell)

4. Tested and got nothing

5. Rebooted > Tested and got nothing

6. Re-applied it again... got nothing.

7. Changed out the Dual link DVI cables with the new one and stock one... redid steps 4/5/6 and got nothing

8. Changed to every single port on both of my GPU's.... and repeated 4/5/6 per each port and got nothing.

9. Took off SLI and did 4/5/6 and 8 and got nothing

10. Face Palming rolleyes.gif


----------



## kevinsbane

Which browser are you using?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> My monitor is overclocked to 120 Hz is it possible to view 3D video files using active shutter glasses? I have a AMD graphics card. The information is vague and the last time I read up on it it was very confusing, mind you I tried to get 3D to work on my DLP projector but that was just too much of a hassle so I eventually just gave up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I'm stumped, I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. I literally did this ver batum...
> 
> 1. Restored PC.
> 
> 2. Reinstalled drivers and rebooted.
> 
> 3. Went to NVCP > Resolutions > Created a custom resolution with 120hz > Applied (screen did dim a bit and I could tell)
> 
> 4. Tested and got nothing
> 
> 5. Rebooted > Tested and got nothing
> 
> 6. Re-applied it again... got nothing.
> 
> 7. Changed out the Dual link DVI cables with the new one and stock one... redid steps 4/5/6 and got nothing
> 
> 8. Changed to every single port on both of my GPU's.... and repeated 4/5/6 per each port and got nothing.
> 
> 9. Took off SLI and did 4/5/6 and 8 and got nothing
> 
> 10. Face Palming rolleyes.gif


What browser are you using?


----------



## Balsagna

I've tried every browser and Team Fortress 2 and League of Legends.....

http://i.imgur.com/RAQGEFr.jpg


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I've tried every browser and Team Fortress 2 and League of Legends.....


Try another PC?


----------



## Chowchilla

dublicate post. deleted.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> Try another PC?


Don't have another PC nor a laptop


----------



## Chowchilla

Wow... prices have sure jumped up

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171236516279

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221239034169
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Osteoman*
> 
> You will be fine with the 770. You might have to bump settings down a little. Also, you can add another one for SLI and it will scream. I have 2 GTX 770 4GB Classifieds and I can hit 120fps in every game I play at full settings except I turn AA off or low.
> 
> Also, you don't have to worry about the monitor not scaling as your vid. card will scale down to 1080 if you want to. The monitor doesn't have to do it.


Ah, thats good to hear!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Storewithstory just accepted my offer of $330 as well.
> 
> Is there a time limit for me to pay? I would like to confirm I am getting a refund from the other seller first.


I just put in an offer.. for $320.. lets see how it goes.


----------



## chaoscontrol

TA-Korea removed its listings. I only see 10bits in his store now. Hope he'll still send out mine...


----------



## hogofwar

Can you not OC if you have multiple monitors then?


----------



## Balsagna

So, when I apply a really low refresh rate. Let's say 20hz... it does indeed slow the hell down to about that. Then when I run the test on that site, I get about 40fps... so it's not the 20 I set, but it's lower then it needed to be.

I think it's overclocking, because I can tell how the colors get darker and brightness goes down a bit as it should, but I just don't get why the hell it's not applying to any stupid game or app..... grrrrrr this is making me mad


----------



## hogofwar

I think I may give up on getting a korean monitor, it's getting too stressful for me


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I think I may give up on getting a korean monitor, it's getting too stressful for me


Heh. Definitely thinking too hard about it!


----------



## TJD269

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I think I may give up on getting a korean monitor, it's getting too stressful for me


Its arguably my best purchase for my PC. Hit buy and you'll never look back my friend.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Wow... prices have sure jumped up
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171236516279
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221239034169
> Ah, thats good to hear!
> I just put in an offer.. for $320.. lets see how it goes.


If he counters, try the same $320 offer, do not raise yours. I should of done that with mine, since its now listed lower than what I paid.


----------



## jakare

Hi, new member!
Just got a perfect pixel Qnix from ta-korea.global.

My monitor is almost perfect with just a tiny diluted grey cloud at the bottom right half of the screen only visible against a white background on a very short distance. I had more visible dirt in my last monitor that didn't bother me so fair enough. Happy with it. Some minor bleeding at the bottom of the screen not sure if it is worth fixing as it is minor enough.

About overclock I have tried up to 120hz and it seems to work well. The problem is a really thin vertical line that appears when overclocked. It is not there at 60hz, then from 70hz to 80hz it is nearly invisible, I need to focus a lot and get close to see it. At 96hz it starts being a bit more evident against a white background although nothing annoying.

My question is if the line will get worse in time if I keep the monitor overclocked. Anyone has experience with this problem or has the same problem in his monitor?

Overall it has been a massive upgrade from my 23" TFT.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> I fly mainly FSX with ORBX scenery, DCS A10C, and Falcon BMS. FSX I fly mainly with just my top-central 24" as I use the other screens for checklists and stuff, but hope to use all 3 when/if I get these new 27"


The setup you requested works fine. I am currently running the 7970 with all three QX2710's in Eyefinity using the native DVI and two DP to DVI powered adaptors. I didn't try to overclock since I already know they work at 96hz, and you set your acceptable target was below 60hz. I have FSX with the default scenery on this PC, so that's what I tested. With settings on high, and dpi set at 7680x1440, I set the frame rate goal to 35. I got a couple of 33-34 fps as reported by fraps, but most of the time it sat at 35fps. Scenery seamed smooth while flying around.

I'll leave this set up for about 30 minutes, so if you happen to see this and have any questions please let me know.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakare*
> 
> Hi, new member!
> Just got a perfect pixel Qnix from ta-korea.global.
> 
> My monitor is almost perfect with just a tiny diluted grey cloud at the bottom right half of the screen only visible against a white background on a very short distance. I had more visible dirt in my last monitor that didn't bother me so fair enough. Happy with it. Some minor bleeding at the bottom of the screen not sure if it is worth fixing as it is minor enough.
> 
> About overclock I have tried up to 120hz and it seems to work well. The problem is a really thin vertical line that appears when overclocked. It is not there at 60hz, then from 70hz to 80hz it is nearly invisible, I need to focus a lot and get close to see it. At 96hz it starts being a bit more evident against a white background although nothing annoying.
> 
> My question is if the line will get worse in time if I keep the monitor overclocked. Anyone has experience with this problem or has the same problem in his monitor?
> 
> Overall it has been a massive upgrade from my 23" TFT.


Hi and Welcome.

Our of Curiosity, can you tell us where in the world you are, and how long from order to delivery please?

Thanks


----------



## jakare

No problem! I am in UK, ta-korea took a week to dispatch due to being waiting for a new batch. 4 days to get to UK. 5 days in customs and then 2 or 3 days to get home.

Monitor price £199. Custom's charge £35.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakare*
> 
> No problem! I am in UK, ta-korea took a week to dispatch due to being waiting for a new batch. 4 days to get to UK. 5 days in customs and then 2 or 3 days to get home.
> 
> Monitor price £199. Custom's charge £35.


interesting. Mine Will be declared as gift and lower than £70 value, I'll update it here on my customs charge


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> I do have 2 monitors and I bought it from a user here on OCN. He was selling 3 of them. Anyways, I already tried unhooking the other monitor as well - I'm stumped man, this is getting to me now lol.
> 
> This is just my luck - something is probably stopping it. I am literally going to screen record me doing this and showing everyone that I'm doing it right,.... or I'm a ****** and clearly missing an obvious point.


Try unplugging, changing dvi cable, reinstalling drivers with only one monitor and then restarting. I'm stumped by your problem too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Can you not OC if you have multiple monitors then?


yeah, for some reason you get capped at 60hz with two monitors.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Try unplugging, changing dvi cable, reinstalling drivers with only one monitor and then restarting. I'm stumped by your problem too
> yeah, for some reason you get capped at 60hz with two monitors.


SO much for overclocking for me then, I like two monitors way too much.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I am sending it back today. They found it hard to believe there was something wrong with it. Either way, they agreed to take it back. They said if they tested it and nothing was wrong, I'd have to pay return shipping, otherwise, I'd get a full refund. It was all worked out in VERY broken English...


Are you going to perform the tests I asked about? It takes less than 10 minutes.


----------



## Roland2

So UKSimmer, I did some testing. Star Trek Online ran with no issues, 55-60fps. I also tried BF4 and ran the system test with graphics set on medium. FPS were steady at 45. Not too bad running three of these on a 7970.


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The setup you requested works fine. I am currently running the 7970 with all three QX2710's in Eyefinity using the native DVI and two DP to DVI powered adaptors. I didn't try to overclock since I already know they work at 96hz, and you set your acceptable target was below 60hz. I have FSX with the default scenery on this PC, so that's what I tested. With settings on high, and dpi set at 7680x1440, I set the frame rate goal to 35. I got a couple of 33-34 fps as reported by fraps, but most of the time it sat at 35fps. Scenery seamed smooth while flying around.
> 
> I'll leave this set up for about 30 minutes, so if you happen to see this and have any questions please let me know.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> So UKSimmer, I did some testing. Star Trek Online ran with no issues, 55-60fps. I also tried BF4 and ran the system test with graphics set on medium. FPS were steady at 45. Not too bad running three of these on a 7970.


Nice! I have no idea about Star Trek Online but if FSX is running at 35, I am sure there are ways and means to get it running more smoothly with higher res terrain and high res aircraft. Any chance at all of trying Falcon BMS? You don't have DCS A10C or DCS BS2 by any chance, do you?

In any case, I'm happy with the FSX results since that means my setup is possible though obviously pushing that many pixels would be a challenge to the HD7970. Well, it's had an easy life so far!


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Nice! I have no idea about Star Trek Online but if FSX is running at 35, I am sure there are ways and means to get it running more smoothly with higher res terrain and high res aircraft. Any chance at all of trying Falcon BMS? You don't have DCS A10C or DCS BS2 by any chance, do you?
> 
> In any case, I'm happy with the FSX results since that means my setup is possible though obviously pushing that many pixels would be a challenge to the HD7970. Well, it's had an easy life so far!


Sorry, I don't have Falcon BMS or the DCS games, so couldn't test them.


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Sorry, I don't have Falcon BMS or the DCS games, so couldn't test them.


Nevermind, but thank you very much for your help!


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The setup you requested works fine. I am currently running the 7970 with all three QX2710's in Eyefinity using the native DVI and two DP to DVI powered adaptors. I didn't try to overclock since I already know they work at 96hz, and you set your acceptable target was below 60hz. I have FSX with the default scenery on this PC, so that's what I tested. With settings on high, and dpi set at 7680x1440, I set the frame rate goal to 35. I got a couple of 33-34 fps as reported by fraps, but most of the time it sat at 35fps. Scenery seamed smooth while flying around.
> 
> I'll leave this set up for about 30 minutes, so if you happen to see this and have any questions please let me know.


I didn't know the powered DP to DVI would do DL.

What about a 280x with 2x DL-DVI CF with a 7970 (only 1 DL-DVI)?

Would you get the 2xDL-DVIs from the 280x or is it lowest common denominator?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> SO much for overclocking for me then, I like two monitors way too much.


for running two monitors I would get the 8bit+frc aka 10bit models


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> for running two monitors I would get the 8bit+frc aka 10bit models


true10?

If I really can't OC with two monitors I may consider it.


----------



## kevinsbane

I don't know why you're running in to trouble there, I know that I've run 2x monitors and still was able to run an overclocked Catleap at the same time. So you *can* run dual monitor + overclock.


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> wth...That's weird bro. Where did you buy it from? Could you contact the seller? I don't think anyone has been unable to oc their monitors here.
> Out of curiosity do you have two monitors attached? As that's known to limit it to 60hz


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Can you not OC if you have multiple monitors then?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Try unplugging, changing dvi cable, reinstalling drivers with only one monitor and then restarting. I'm stumped by your problem too
> yeah, for some reason you get capped at 60hz with two monitors.


I just read the "no OC if using more than one monitor" issue and that was surprising. I had planned to buy some monitors and would've set my sights on 90hz or thereabouts and be happy with my monitors but it seems that now I'll be stuck with 60hz? Should this be an issue for me since none of my flight sims have seen anywhere near 50fps on my current setup, so upgrading to bigger monitor (total) resolutions can only mean I'll be lucky if I get 40fps or more??

If that's not going to be an issue, then at least all I have to worry about now is BLB and dead pixels.

Another question: since I am planning to buy 3 monitors (possibly QNIX ones), should I buy all 3 at once and from one seller and possibly negotiate a discount price or should I buy one-at-a-time and maybe from different sellers?


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Which browser are you using?


Chrome


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> I didn't know the powered DP to DVI would do DL.
> 
> What about a 280x with 2x DL-DVI CF with a 7970 (only 1 DL-DVI)?
> 
> Would you get the 2xDL-DVIs from the 280x or is it lowest common denominator?


I'm not that familiar with AMD/ATI cards, didn't even know you could CF a 280x with a 7970. Maybe someone with more AMD/ATI knowledge can help you on this one.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> I just read the "no OC if using more than one monitor" issue and that was surprising. I had planned to buy some monitors and would've set my sights on 90hz or thereabouts and be happy with my monitors but it seems that now I'll be stuck with 60hz? Should this be an issue for me since none of my flight sims have seen anywhere near 50fps on my current setup, so upgrading to bigger monitor (total) resolutions can only mean I'll be lucky if I get 40fps or more??
> 
> If that's not going to be an issue, then at least all I have to worry about now is BLB and dead pixels.
> 
> Another question: since I am planning to buy 3 monitors (possibly QNIX ones), should I buy all 3 at once and from one seller and possibly negotiate a discount price or should I buy one-at-a-time and maybe from different sellers?


What is the "no OC if using more than one monitor" issue? It must be an AMD/ATI thing. I'm running three at 96Hz right now using my NVidia setup.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I'm not that familiar with AMD/ATI cards, didn't even know you could CF a 280x with a 7970. Maybe someone with more AMD/ATI knowledge can help you on this one.


AMD lets you CF different cards with the same core. 280x and 7970 will work but just not sure of limitations.
Nvidia will make you buy all new.


----------



## Chowchilla

I wonder if this is the end of the overclockable QX2710 or just a tempory setback.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> I wonder if this is the end of the overclockable QX2710 or just a tempory setback.


Time will tell, if they get enough people asking for them to keep sales up, maybe they will stay around or make new ones. They really need to fix their ads for the new ones, saying they overclock when they skip frames doing so is misleading to people who don't know better.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Time will tell, if they get enough people asking for them to keep sales up, maybe they will stay around or make new ones. They really need to fix their ads for the new ones, saying they overclock when they skip frames doing so is misleading to people who don't know better.


I've just contacted a few sellers asking. Yeah, don't even know why they kept the same model number as well.


----------



## Stereophonics

Just registered to share my experience with dream-seller.

I bought a matte X-Star on March 6th when it was still at $279 and after several email conversations about defective monitors from their manufacturer, they have confirmed that my monitor will finally ship tomorrow. They also refunded me $10 for the delay, which is nice, but maybe a little underwhelming since it's going to be almost 3 weeks from order to delivery. If it comes without any major issues, then it will have been worth the wait for $269 because I see they've rocketed back up in price across the board.

I'll update when my monitor arrives.


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> What is the "no OC if using more than one monitor" issue? It must be an AMD/ATI thing. I'm running three at 96Hz right now using my NVidia setup.


Huh? Weird. Well, the guys I was quoting in my post said those things so I thought multi-monitors = no OC, but if you say you can.... cool!


----------



## travanx

Got 2 perfect pixel qnix matte from storewithstory. Never got a tracking email, but the track package on ebay was updating. Can't see a dead pixel yet, and not sure how much I want to search for them.

Got a dual monitor stand from ebay and got it all setup. A little nerve wracking taking the bezel apart for the stand removal, but it was much easier on the 2nd monitor. The ebay mount didn't have the right length screws so I used the metal bracket inside the monitor as a spacer between the vesa bracket and qnix.

The 2 monitor setup did not like being hooked into each DVI port on my XFX 7950. So I used the displayport adapter for one and the other is DVI, and all works fine.


----------



## jakare

Oops! Just found a single little dead pixel next to the top right corner (2 millimetres from the top edge )...So little is nearly cute...nearly.

By the way, anyone has any idea about my previous question? Will the monitor get damage by overclocking? The line appears on the bottom half and is nearly invisible at 96hz but I don't want it to get worse.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakare*
> 
> About overclock I have tried up to 120hz and it seems to work well. The problem is a really thin vertical line that appears when overclocked. It is not there at 60hz, then from 70hz to 80hz it is nearly invisible, I need to focus a lot and get close to see it. At 96hz it starts being a bit more evident against a white background although nothing annoying.
> 
> My question is if the line will get worse in time if I keep the monitor overclocked. Anyone has experience with this problem or has the same problem in his monitor?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakare*
> 
> Oops! Just found a single little dead pixel next to the top right corner (2 millimetres from the top edge )...So little is nearly cute...nearly.
> 
> By the way, anyone has any idea about my previous question? Will the monitor get damage by overclocking? The line appears on the bottom half and is nearly invisible at 96hz but I don't want it to get worse.


Just return it for a replacement for that dead pixel, ta.korea.global should cover it.


----------



## keenerz

Just a curious question, is it possible for a single GTX 780 Ti to run two 1440p monitors at 120hz overclocked, while gaming and surfing the web simultaneously/one at a time.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keenerz*
> 
> Just a curious question, is it possible for a single GTX 780 Ti to run two 1440p monitors at 120hz overclocked, while gaming and surfing the web simultaneously/one at a time.


Depending on your settings the card can do it, but as far as I know, Surround doesn't work with just two monitors, you have to have three,


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakare*
> 
> No problem! I am in UK, ta-korea took a week to dispatch due to being waiting for a new batch. 4 days to get to UK. 5 days in customs and then 2 or 3 days to get home.
> 
> Monitor price £199. Custom's charge £35.


So ~20 days in total - I better calm down yet then, could be another 3 weeks!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Depending on your settings the card can do it, but as far as I know, Surround doesn't work with just two monitors, you have to have three,


I never quite, and still don't get using 2 monitors if you are indeed using them as 1. The bezels are bad enough on any multi setup IMHO, only having 2 with the bezels splitting right in the middle = yukky.


----------



## Jedi Mind Trick

Quick question: I recently got my Qnix, and it has a stuck green pixel. Has anyone has had any success fixing stuck pixels, and if so what did you do (and for how long)?

I am using UDPixel right now, and its been running for like 10 mins, I also tried putting pressure on it (put am to scared to do it for too long or too hard).

Other than that this monitor is great. It does 120hz no problem!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi Mind Trick*
> 
> Quick question: I recently got my Qnix, and it has a stuck green pixel. Has anyone has had any success fixing stuck pixels, and if so what did you do (and for how long)?
> 
> I am using UDPixel right now, and its been running for like 10 mins, I also tried putting pressure on it (put am to scared to do it for too long or too hard).
> 
> Other than that this monitor is great. It does 120hz no problem!


I did massage one out many, many moons ago. Does that sound wrong?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I did massage one out many, many moons ago. Does that sound wrong?


sounds good haha


----------



## Jedi Mind Trick

Yes, yes it does. Did it take awhile?

That sounds wrong too


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> I just read the "no OC if using more than one monitor" issue and that was surprising. I had planned to buy some monitors and would've set my sights on 90hz or thereabouts and be happy with my monitors but it seems that now I'll be stuck with 60hz? Should this be an issue for me since none of my flight sims have seen anywhere near 50fps on my current setup, so upgrading to bigger monitor (total) resolutions can only mean I'll be lucky if I get 40fps or more??
> 
> If that's not going to be an issue, then at least all I have to worry about now is BLB and dead pixels.
> 
> Another question: since I am planning to buy 3 monitors (possibly QNIX ones), should I buy all 3 at once and from one seller and possibly negotiate a discount price or should I buy one-at-a-time and maybe from different sellers?


yeah that's what seems to be the norm. 60hz, or the rated output of the monitor is the actual max of it. Again, apparently via other user's input.
As for your question, I would suggest buying it all from the same seller really. It would make life easier and would enable you to barter.


----------



## jakare

I contacted ta.korea.global and sent pictures. To be honest if I send it back I can be without monitor for a month or more. I will be happy having some money back I think. the monitor is still quite good.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keenerz*
> 
> Just a curious question, is it possible for a single GTX 780 Ti to run two 1440p monitors at 120hz overclocked, while gaming and surfing the web simultaneously/one at a time.


Depends on the game and I doubt it.

So, does anyone know of any good 120hz games that aren't capping with vsync on. It appears TF2 and League of Legends caps you to 60FPS anyways.... Skyrim appaers to be working at w/e I set it at. I do not have BF3 installed. I';ll ionstall it tonight


----------



## keenerz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Depending on your settings the card can do it, but as far as I know, Surround doesn't work with just two monitors, you have to have three,


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Depends on the game and I doubt it.
> 
> So, does anyone know of any good 120hz games that aren't capping with vsync on. It appears TF2 and League of Legends caps you to 60FPS anyways.... Skyrim appaers to be working at w/e I set it at. I do not have BF3 installed. I';ll ionstall it tonight


yeah I kind of phrased it incorrectly but I mean't using one as a gaming monitor and one as a side monitor for other things. Like say I wanted to watch something or keep it open for other things. I read that there's just a limitation on bandwidth on trying to keep two 1440p monitors at 120hz going full sprint on just one GTX 780 Ti.


----------



## Balsagna

For other tasks, I doubt that would matter. I mean you would notice a slight performance decrease, but say, watching a movie on the other while playing a game, won't impact you much at all.


----------



## bluedevil

Might have to whip out the Qnix again to give it a go again. I really thought I would have a buyer by now.


----------



## brialee8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> dream-seller shipped my allegedly glossy X-Star on Friday and never messaged me about quality issues.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stereophonics*
> 
> Just registered to share my experience with dream-seller.
> 
> I bought a matte X-Star on March 6th when it was still at $279 and after several email conversations about defective monitors from their manufacturer, they have confirmed that my monitor will finally ship tomorrow. They also refunded me $10 for the delay, which is nice, but maybe a little underwhelming since it's going to be almost 3 weeks from order to delivery. If it comes without any major issues, then it will have been worth the wait for $269 because I see they've rocketed back up in price across the board.
> 
> I'll update when my monitor arrives.


Same here, except I ordered on the 10th. Dream-seller gave me a tentative ship date of today, but I guess that isn't happening.... time to send him another inquiry


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Might have to whip out the Qnix again to give it a go again. I really thought I would have a buyer by now.


The shipping is probably sapping interest. I was seriously considering it, but UPS and Fedex was $100 to ship it to me. I don't know how those Korean sellers are making a profit.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> The shipping is probably sapping interest. I was seriously considering it, but UPS and Fedex was $100 to ship it to me. I don't know how those Korean sellers are making a profit.


They get better shipping rates.


----------



## winterkid09

So I just got an email from ta-korea saying that basically 'problems' mean I can't have my monitor. I wanted it and not the True 10 originally bcause I've wanted to overclock. but It looks like the True 10 actually has some rather minimal but nice upsides, like the AH-IPS display. It's probably fantastic.

To be honest though it just feels like they're beating around the bush..

Can anybody tell me about their experience with the True10? I'd like to buy something rather soon, this sucks, not I have no monitor on the way and korea has my money


----------



## Watagump

So, according to the listing, 5 of these sold, cant wait for the feedback.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231184013073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> So, according to the listing, 5 of these sold, cant wait for the feedback.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/231184013073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


wouldn't trust it.
0 Feedback - seen a few of therm come up now. Seems like Chinese scammers.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> So, according to the listing, 5 of these sold, cant wait for the feedback.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/231184013073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


the price is too good to be true


----------



## apexhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> So, according to the listing, 5 of these sold, cant wait for the feedback.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/231184013073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Whaaaaat?! QHD monitors for $82!
In all seriousness, the seller has no feedback and these people are gonna receive very very poor panels, if any, some time in the distant future. And I am willing to bet the seller never communicates haha.
Having said all that, I would have bought one if I had seen it while it was still alive. Probably. Even though it sounds too good to be true.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keenerz*
> 
> yeah I kind of phrased it incorrectly but I mean't using one as a gaming monitor and one as a side monitor for other things. Like say I wanted to watch something or keep it open for other things. I read that there's just a limitation on bandwidth on trying to keep two 1440p monitors at 120hz going full sprint on just one GTX 780 Ti.


Honestly I don't think this would be a problem. The non-gaming monitor wouldn't be doing 120hz most of the time anyway. I mean surfing the web and such isn't using the GPU much at all. Load wise, going from one screen at 96hz and 3 at 96hz only added 8 to 10 watts. I guess what I'm saying is the two monitors wouldn't be going "full sprint". The gaming one might be, but unless you're playing another game on the other monitor at 120hz, it's not going to be a major factor.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> the price is too good to be true


I am just saying 5 people might of actually bought them, if so, that's 5 stupid people.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apexhunter*
> 
> Whaaaaat?! QHD monitors for $82!
> In all seriousness, the seller has no feedback and these people are gonna receive very very poor panels, if any, some time in the distant future. And I am willing to bet the seller never communicates haha.
> Having said all that, I would have bought one if I had seen it while it was still alive. Probably. Even though it sounds too good to be true.


These have been appearing for the past few days, the auctions only last an hour or so.

We actually have an OCN buyer, there's a thread where someone posted a link and decided to chance it since "ebay buyer's protection" will cover them.


----------



## apexhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am just saying 5 people might of actually bought them, if so, that's 5 stupid people.


How good is the buyer protection on ebay? Does anyone have any first-hand experience with a truly terrible seller?
I remember getting the wrong model of a phone I ordered on Amazon once and the seller just stopped responding. Filed something with Amazon, had to wait a few weeks, and was refunded the full amount. Didn't even have to return the phone I got. I tried to get his address, but he didn't even provide that. Ended up selling it on craigslist a month down the line for like $200.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> These have been appearing for the past few days, the auctions only last an hour or so.
> 
> We actually have an OCN buyer, there's a thread where someone posted a link and decided to chance it since "ebay buyer's protection" will cover them.


For me it wouldn't even be worth the stress.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apexhunter*
> 
> How good is the buyer protection on ebay? Does anyone have any first-hand experience with a truly terrible seller?
> I remember getting the wrong model of a phone I ordered on Amazon once and the seller just stopped responding. Filed something with Amazon, had to wait a few weeks, and was refunded the full amount. Didn't even have to return the phone I got. I tried to get his address, but he didn't even provide that. Ended up selling it on craigslist a month down the line for like $200.


I have heard if you are a buyer, you usually win, that's about all I know.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have heard if you are a buyer, you usually win, that's about all I know.


That's generally true - but there's a slight problem.

Right now I've had a few buyers protection problems:
1. Bought GTX680 via paypal protection - I have to wait 30days, before receiving a refund
2. Bought a monitor (QNIX) that didn't fit the description - I have to pay postage return, which is ridiculous.
3. Bought an amp that didn't work, got it refunded by eBay, but not by the seller.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's generally true - but there's a slight problem.
> 
> Right now I've had a few buyers protection problems:
> 1. Bought GTX680 via paypal protection - I have to wait 30days, before receiving a refund
> 2. Bought a monitor (QNIX) that didn't fit the description - I have to pay postage return, which is ridiculous.
> 3. Bought an amp that didn't work, got it refunded by eBay, but not by the seller.


Yep I bought a different Korean ips and paid for pixel perfect they sent it to me with dead pixels and tried to get me to pay for return postage. I just refused until the seller agreed to pay for it


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's generally true - but there's a slight problem.
> 
> Right now I've had a few buyers protection problems:
> 1. Bought GTX680 via paypal protection - I have to wait 30days, before receiving a refund
> 2. Bought a monitor (QNIX) that didn't fit the description - I have to pay postage return, which is ridiculous.
> 3. Bought an amp that didn't work, got it refunded by eBay, but not by the seller.


So in 2 out of 3 you will get your money back. As for the Korean monitor, that's a tougher one, I was aware trying to return one could be an issue, regardless of their policies.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Yep I bought a different Korean ips and paid for pixel perfect they sent it to me with dead pixels and tried to get me to pay for return postage. I just refused until the seller agreed to pay for it


My seller, storewithstory does say if the monitor fell under their terms of being defective, they pay for the return shipping. The fun part of these, is getting them to agree on what is defective.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> So in 2 out of 3 you will get your money back. As for the Korean monitor, that's a tougher one, I was aware trying to return one could be an issue, regardless of their policies.


really depends on the case tbh.
End of the day, regardless of win or lose, you're looking at 30 days without that initial money you paid.


----------



## Jedi Mind Trick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Yep I bought a different Korean ips and paid for pixel perfect they sent it to me with dead pixels and tried to get me to pay for return postage. I just refused until the seller agreed to pay for it


EDIT: NVM


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> really depends on the case tbh.
> End of the day, regardless of win or lose, you're looking at 30 days without that initial money you paid.


I don't like it when it takes 2-3 days to get my money back when I return something and used my debit card. They take the money right away, but you end up waiting to get it back.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I saw someone asked, so the pixel perfect I bought was listed to be completely pixel perfect, and showed up with 1-2 dead ones right in the middle of the screen. So yes I fought like heck to have it returned at no expense to me.

I ended up buying another one without any pixel perfect guarantee and this one is fine, I think it has 1 bright pixel off in the right corner that you never see unless you look for it.

My reasoning was the first time I paid an extra $80 or something to insure it was perfect, which it was not.

So I figured I was owed a refund and I'd just take my chances on a non pixel perfect one the second time.

Worked out well and I still love this qnix 1440p but I do really want a 4k pretty soon, I'll likely wait till around September and get one for my birthday since better/cheaper ones are coming out.


----------



## apexhunter

Now I am thinking I should have paid the extra $100 for the 30" 2560x1600 version.
I use it to watch movies at night sometimes, and I miss my 32" 1080p Samsung LED TV that I sold to get this.
Ah well, I guess I will have to trawl craigslist till I find a cheap 40" Name Brand 1080p LED TV. There was a Samsung 40EH5300 or something for $120 the other day but someone had already picked it up by the time I called.


----------



## Forceman

If anyone is still looking, storewithstory immediately accepted my offer of $330 for an ultimate perfect pixel QX2710. Pretty much the list price of a normal one now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> If anyone is still looking, storewithstory immediately accepted my offer of $330 for an ultimate perfect pixel QX2710. Pretty much the list price of a normal one now.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?


join me brother and we will time the world! Lol glad you got it at that price too!


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Dear hogofwar25,
> 
> Hi
> Sorry for any inconvenience.
> The monitor that you ordered has pixel problems.
> We had tested for the week but it still isn't the perfect pixel.
> That's why we couldn't send it to you.
> We heard that all sellers in ebay that sales this monitor has the same problem.
> 
> We suggest you the upgrade version of this monitor and also 'Perfect Pixel' warranty.
> The new one has Virtual color, Display port(HDMI,DVI-D,VGA,DP port), Flicker Free eye protection and so on.
> It was over $400, but we lower the price for the waitings.
> Please check below URL. "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DP Multi True10 27"
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=201051547487
> If you don't mind we would like to refund you this monitor than you can buy the NEW one.
> Hope you understand this. Please reply.
> Thank you so much for your patience.
> 
> - ta-korea.global


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> So I just got an email from ta-korea saying that basically 'problems' mean I can't have my monitor. I wanted it and not the True 10 originally bcause I've wanted to overclock. but It looks like the True 10 actually has some rather minimal but nice upsides, like the AH-IPS display. It's probably fantastic.
> 
> To be honest though it just feels like they're beating around the bush..
> 
> Can anybody tell me about their experience with the True10? I'd like to buy something rather soon, this sucks, not I have no monitor on the way and korea has my money


Interesting - when did you place your order ? A couple if us in here have orders with the same supplier for the same monitor :-(

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nnimrod

So I just got mine today, and I've got a couple of dead/stuck pixels. Good news is I can't really notice them, because they're so small, and they appear to display some colors correctly. I've also got some very real BLB issues. Although, again, it's not too very apparent unless the screen is displaying a single color, like silver.

League of Legends appears a little choppier than before. Although my 580 still keeps it pinned at 60 fps. But I imagine this issue will be alleviated somewhat this weekend when I try to push for 120hz.

How do I adjust gamma? The only monitor buttons are brightness and (lol) volume.

Also, other than games and a very small selection of wallpapers, what is there to display at 1440p? No movies that I know of.


----------



## aaaflyer

Hey i got someone here who can test the true 10 version. He overclocked to 120hz. Has tested on the ufo site with no artifact or frame skipping. Please recommend more testing method so i can ask him to do


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> join me brother and we will time the world! Lol glad you got it at that price too!


And they shipped same day. Should be here Wednesday...yay!


----------



## BigBobBobson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> So I just got an email from ta-korea saying that basically 'problems' mean I can't have my monitor. I wanted it and not the True 10 originally bcause I've wanted to overclock. but It looks like the True 10 actually has some rather minimal but nice upsides, like the AH-IPS display. It's probably fantastic.
> 
> To be honest though it just feels like they're beating around the bush..
> 
> Can anybody tell me about their experience with the True10? I'd like to buy something rather soon, this sucks, not I have no monitor on the way and korea has my money


I've had the exact same message. Really annoying. I've told him I don't want the other and just to pay me back, I hope he's quick though, I'm eager to buy from someone else before they all start deciding they'd rather sell this new model.

Anyone know whether I can/should use some sort of payment cancellation at paypal/ebay?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> And they shipped same day. Should be here Wednesday...yay!


mine just posted out too, with tracking!


----------



## Agent_kenshin

I Just received a Email from Ta-korea global when I inquired about a status update. Mine is different however from the last couple in this thread and says nothing about a True10 and the emails about him offering the true10's have me a bit on edge. If I get a true10 and is not the DVI-D only model, it will be going back.

Hi
Sorry for any inconvenience.
We want to update you about some recent delays on items shipping.
The monitor had little problem during the weekend, that's why we couldn't send it to you.
We had double checking and testing for this and send it yesterday.
But the postal error that doesn't show the trackings.
So we will change the tracking number and send it today again.
We are so sorry for this.
Please wait for the delivery time.
Thank you so much for your patience.

I ordered mine on the 10th at $325 if this helps others that ordered from him and one day later he raised the price.


----------



## hogofwar

I just want my refund as quick as possible at this point.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> Hey i got someone here who can test the true 10 version. He overclocked to 120hz. Has tested on the ufo site with no artifact or frame skipping. Please recommend more testing method so i can ask him to do


How did he test for frameskipping? We need a photograph of the test running with shutter speed set to something reasonable.


----------



## aaaflyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> How did he test for frameskipping? We need a photograph of the test running with shutter speed set to something reasonable.


He checked the ufo website. I dont have a 120hz monitor so i dont know how it should look like. So please tell me instructions so i can tell him to do it step by step


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> He checked the ufo website. I dont have a 120hz monitor so i dont know how it should look like. So please tell me instructions so i can tell him to do it step by step


Set shutter speed to 1/5, or 1/10, etc... and take a photo of the moving boxes. The photo indicates where a frame skip has occurred or not. Ideally, A chain of boxes should be lit in sequence, indicating that the monitor is displaying all the frames it has received in succession. Missing a box means that a frame was dropped. A 1/5 shutter speed should show 12 lit boxes at 60Hz and 24 lit boxes at 120Hz. If the boxes are too dim @ 1/5 shutter speed @ 120Hz, then use something like 1/10 which will show 12 lit boxes at 120Hz.


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Interesting - when did you place your order ? A couple if us in here have orders with the same supplier for the same monitor :-(


~3 days ago exactly, got the email 1 day ago exactly.. I told him to go ahead and sent my money back (not sure why he didn't do that right away because there's no reason for him to keep it if he told me to REPURCHASE the new one anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> Hey i got someone here who can test the true 10 version. He overclocked to 120hz. Has tested on the ufo site with no artifact or frame skipping. Please recommend more testing method so i can ask him to do


I've decided to go ahead and grab the True 10, it honestly can't be that bad, and if I can even get to 75hz it'll feel amazing. If I end up with a True10 and 120hz though, I'll be back with proof too! I've always been fond of reporting overclocking results with a ton of information as well, so look forward to that. Heck, I'll report back with all the lovely details _anyway_

Also, in his response to my response to the email, he said the True 10 runs natively at 75hz I'm not sure I remember reading that in it's specs, that's weird as heck. Is that true for some reason?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> I've decided to go ahead and grab the True 10, it honestly can't be that bad, and if I can even get to 75hz it'll feel amazing. If I end up with a True10 and 120hz though, I'll be back with proof too! I've always been fond of reporting overclocking results with a ton of information as well, so look forward to that. Heck, I'll report back with all the lovely details _anyway_
> 
> Also, in his response to my response to the email, he said the True 10 runs natively at 75hz I'm not sure I remember reading that in it's specs, that's weird as heck. Is that true for some reason?


It's not true and the True10 seems to skip frames anywhere above 60Hz. Don't get your hopes up that it can overclock until we can get a photo proving it doesn't skip frames. Digitalforce's True10 skips frames so even if we get samples that overclock, that doesn't mean they all will.


----------



## winterkid09

I've decided to go ahead and grab the True 10, it honestly can't be that bad, and if I can get to 75hz even it'll feel amazing. 60hz is already pretty fantastic if your graphics card is good enough, although I've never seen much higher. From doing quite a bit of reading, it seems that using the 10-bit feature will not have a huge effect unless you have a 10-bit graphics card, however due to the fact that it displays in 10-bit, it does it's processing at 12-bit, (compared 10 a 8-bit monitor processing in 12-bit)

basically if you can't notice, that's okay because it's better anyway
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It's not true and the True10 seems to skip frames anywhere above 60Hz. Don't get your hopes up that it can overclock until we can get a photo proving it doesn't skip frames. Digitalforce's True10 skips frames so even if we get samples that overclock, that doesn't mean they all will.


I wasn't getting my hopes up, I was just deducing that if anybody would have a _chance_ of reaching clocks above 60, I might be able to. I recently got 2 290x's (the Asus DCU2 ones) and would even be willing to spend a ton of time researching and testing.

Sure it's probably not possible, but hey, anything's an upgrade from a 1080p TN Display! Plus displays tend to look fantastic at native refreshes.

Maybe I'm wrong, maybe they look perfect, maybe I should shut up and get a regular one.. Hmm


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> I've decided to go ahead and grab the True 10, it honestly can't be that bad, and if I can get to 75hz even it'll feel amazing. 60hz is already pretty fantastic if your graphics card is good enough, although I've never seen much higher. From doing quite a bit of reading, it seems that using the 10-bit feature will not have a huge effect unless you have a 10-bit graphics card, however due to the fact that it displays in 10-bit, it does it's processing at 12-bit, (compared 10 a 8-bit monitor processing in 12-bit)


The monitor does not have an internal LUT and does not process in 12-bit. Only monitors that use dithering or internal LUTs and include a Color Management System (CMS - pro) process at higher bits than what they can actually display. This is one such monitor, it's 8-bit + FRC = 10-bit input with dithering at an actual 8-bits. Vast majority of 10-bit monitors are 8-bit + FRC and the true 10-bit ones are horribly expensive and are for professional use. TN panels are 8-bit input but have 6-bit panels, all of them.

Plus, there's rarely any 10-bit content out there. No games are 10-bit. If you were to use the registry tweak to enable 10-bit support on AMD (AMD consumer cards support 10-bit, like the FirePro), then you'll have many issues with non-10-bit applications crashing and whatnot. For all our intents and purposes, these monitors are equivalent to the normal 8-bit models we buy. You're going to have a different monitor if you have a fully 10-bit workflow, from OS to GPU to applications to your own usage.
Quote:


> I wasn't getting my hopes up, I was just deducing that if anybody would have a _chance_ of reaching clocks above 60, I might be able to. I recently got 2 290x's (the Asus DCU2 ones) and would even be willing to spend a ton of time researching and testing.
> 
> Sure it's probably not possible, but hey, anything's an upgrade from a 1080p TN Display! Plus displays tend to look fantastic at native refreshes.
> 
> Maybe I'm wrong, maybe they look perfect, maybe I should shut up and get a regular one.. Hmm


It would be a total shame to put these two cards to waste at 2560x1440p 60Hz unless you like to jack up the AA to use up the extra power. I would take the extra frames over extra AA any time of the day. The single input model has less lag (~6ms @ 60Hz) and is known to overclock so I don't see why you wouldn't get that instead. Unless you want to wait for further results on the True10 but I'm almost sure it skips frames like the rest of the multi-input boards.

Once calibrated (mostly for the gamma shift), color quality is the same at 60Hz vs. higher refresh rates. It's the uniformity that might suffer. However, if you're not satisfied with how higher refresh rates work then you could stay at 60Hz and enjoy the lower input lag.


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> The monitor does not have an internal LUT and does not process in 12-bit. Only monitors that use dithering or internal LUTs and include a Color Management System (CMS - pro) process at higher bits than what they can actually display. This is one such monitor, it's 8-bit + FRC = 10-bit input with dithering at an actual 8-bits. Vast majority of 10-bit monitors are 8-bit + FRC and the true 10-bit ones are horribly expensive and are for professional use. TN panels are 8-bit input but have 6-bit panels, all of them.
> 
> Plus, there's rarely any 10-bit content out there. No games are 10-bit. If you were to use the registry tweak to enable 10-bit support on AMD (AMD consumer cards support 10-bit, like the FirePro), then you'll have many issues with non-10-bit applications crashing and whatnot. For all our intents and purposes, these monitors are equivalent to the normal 8-bit models we buy. You're going to have a different monitor if you have a fully 10-bit workflow, from OS to GPU to applications to your own usage.
> It would be a total shame to put these two cards to waste at 2560x1440p 60Hz unless you like to jack up the AA to use up the extra power. I would take the extra frames over extra AA any time of the day. The single input model has less lag (~6ms @ 60Hz) and is known to overclock so I don't see why you wouldn't get that instead. Unless you want to wait for further results on the True10 but I'm almost sure it skips frames like the rest of the multi-input boards.
> 
> Once calibrated (mostly for the gamma shift), color quality is the same at 60Hz vs. higher refresh rates. It's the uniformity that might suffer. However, if you're not satisfied with how higher refresh rates work then you could stay at 60Hz and enjoy the lower input lag.


First off, I actually meant to delete that first part of the post, it was written in a second tab and I abandoned it because I had no idea what I was talking about! That's why two of my posts start out the same.. haha

I'll have to heed your advice here, I went to www.testufo.com and I noticed that 60hz looks a hell of a lot better than 30hz (which I already knew, I'm an FPS chaser) but now I'm more aware of the room there is for improvement Seems like 120hz would be instant motion clarity, thanks for helping me see straight , I'll find a different seller.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Wow, TA-Korea actually sent my monitor! Got a tracking on my work email (ebay account) I just saw it. Ordered the 11th of march.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> First off, I actually meant to delete that first part of the post, it was written in a second tab and I abandoned it because I had no idea what I was talking about! That's why two of my posts start out the same.. haha


It's alright, I replied to the part that was added anyways haha








Quote:


> I'll have to heed your advice here, I went to www.testufo.com and I noticed that 60hz looks a hell of a lot better than 30hz (which I already knew, I'm an FPS chaser) but now I'm more aware of the room there is for improvement Seems like 120hz would be instant motion clarity, thanks for helping me see straight , I'll find a different seller.


Won't be completely motion clear, but you'll get closer to that. The closest to complete motion clarity currently are the LightBoost / G-Sync (with ULMB turned on) monitors. The overclockable IPS / PLS monitors will have slower pixel response and higher motion blur than the 1080p TN displays @ 120Hz even with LightBoost / ULMB off. But they will all feel super-fluid, as 100Hz+ should feel, and the IPS / PLS monitors look much nicer than the TN displays in normal mode, let alone in LightBoost / ULMB mode which tends to reduce color accuracy and in some cases raise the black level (ala ASUS VG248QE in LB mode).


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> If he counters, try the same $320 offer, do not raise yours. I should of done that with mine, since its now listed lower than what I paid.


He countered with $340. now, if i offer $320 again wont he have the ablilty to just back out and ill be stuck with the default price?


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It's alright, I replied to the part that was added anyways haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Won't be completely motion clear, but you'll get closer to that. The closest to complete motion clarity currently are the LightBoost / G-Sync (with ULMB turned on) monitors. The overclockable IPS / PLS monitors will have slower pixel response and higher motion blur than the 1080p TN displays @ 120Hz even with LightBoost / ULMB off. But they will all feel super-fluid, as 100Hz+ should feel, and the IPS / PLS monitors look much nicer than the TN displays in normal mode, let alone in LightBoost / ULMB mode which tends to reduce color accuracy and in some cases raise the black level (ala ASUS VG248QE in LB mode).


It was the added part that I didn't mean to send actually xD

Unfortunately I'm on AMD so I can't get G-Sync, and also since I'm looking for 1440p The options for 120hz are basically..... nothing at all! Especially at less than a $500 price point.

Life's hard for a perfectionist!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

For those in the UK - wondering about who sends stuff - where it was presumed it was on Fedex and EMS - well story seller is sending it via DHL.
Just got a text by DHL confirming that it will be with me soon







!
I'm guessing on Monday or Wednesday it should be here.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I got a slight doubt, that tells me the true10 OCs and can do 1080P....in other words, maybe my panel is magically different lol


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> For those in the UK - wondering about who sends stuff - where it was presumed it was on Fedex and EMS - well story seller is sending it via DHL.
> Just got a text by DHL confirming that it will be with me soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> I'm guessing on Monday or Wednesday it should be here.


ill probably put my $330 bid in tonight or tomorrw. Did you pay via debit card or straight from your bank? did you get any additional charges for currency conversion?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> ill probably put my $330 bid in tonight or tomorrw. Did you pay via debit card or straight from your bank? did you get any additional charges for currency conversion?


Via paypal -> instant bank transfer:

From amount £217.07 GBP
To amount $350.00 USD
Exchange rate: 1 British Pound = 1.61242 US Dollars

PS. this is without customs or anything like that - so I have to wait on that.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Via paypal -> instant bank transfer:
> 
> From amount £217.07 GBP
> To amount $350.00 USD
> Exchange rate: 1 British Pound = 1.61242 US Dollars
> 
> PS. this is without customs or anything like that - so I have to wait on that.


Cheers!


----------



## Chowchilla

looks like TFTCentral are reviewing the True10, lets see what they make of it.



> Testing the monitor with the Worlds longest name! - "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DPmulti True10"
> 
> - TFTCentral (@TFTCentral)


March 21, 2014



> Confirmed the QNIX QX2710 is using an AUO AHVA panel, light AG, has proper backlight control, but does use moderate amplitude PWM
> 
> - TFTCentral (@TFTCentral)


March 21, 2014


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> looks like TFTCentral are reviewing the True10, lets see what they make of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing the monitor with the Worlds longest name! - "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DPmulti True10"
> 
> - TFTCentral (@TFTCentral)
> 
> 
> 
> March 21, 2014
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Confirmed the QNIX QX2710 is using an AUO AHVA panel, light AG, has proper backlight control, but does use moderate amplitude PWM
> 
> - TFTCentral (@TFTCentral)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> March 21, 2014
Click to expand...

sweeeet looking forward to that!


----------



## hogofwar

Can anyone confirm completely that it is (not) possible to overclock with 2 monitors (one being stuck at 60hz) on a single nvidia GPU?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Can anyone confirm completely that it is (not) possible to overclock with 2 monitors (one being stuck at 60hz) on a single nvidia GPU?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1446560/qnix-qx2710-dropping-frames-in-dual-monitor-mode


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Can anyone confirm completely that it is (not) possible to overclock with 2 monitors (one being stuck at 60hz) on a single nvidia GPU?


It is possible to overclock when using two monitors while on a single nvidia GPU.


----------



## Screemi

PCGamesHardware published a test about the True10 from qnix today: http://www.pcgameshardware.de/LCD-Hardware-154105/Tests/Qnix-QX2710-Test-1114181/

They say that they reached 100Hz with DP and 120Hz with DVI. If that's true and others, like tft-central, will confirm it, i'll definitely get one and sell my x-star dp2710.
Quote:


> Confirmed the QNIX QX2710 is using an AUO AHVA panel, light AG, has proper backlight control, but does use moderate amplitude PWM
> 
> - TFTCentral (@TFTCentral)
> 
> 
> 
> March 21, 2014
Click to expand...

does that mean that lightboost could be working? or is strobe backlight needed for lightboost something else than PWM?


----------



## aaaflyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screemi*
> 
> PCGamesHardware published a test about the True10 from qnix today: http://www.pcgameshardware.de/LCD-Hardware-154105/Tests/Qnix-QX2710-Test-1114181/
> 
> They say that they reached 100Hz with DP and 120Hz with DVI. If that's true and others, like tft-central, will confirm it, i'll definitely get one and sell my x-star dp2710.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Confirmed the QNIX QX2710 is using an AUO AHVA panel, light AG, has proper backlight control, but does use moderate amplitude PWM
> 
> - TFTCentral (@TFTCentral)
> 
> 
> 
> March 21, 2014
Click to expand...

does that mean that lightboost could be working? or is strobe backlight needed for lightboost something else than PWM?[/quote]

second this!

is PLS not the same standard as AH VA? how much difference can the panels make?


----------



## Chowchilla

wow. ok. so, lets see what TFTCentral say...


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1446560/qnix-qx2710-dropping-frames-in-dual-monitor-mode


Okay, thanks.

Even more reason for me to go with your true10...


----------



## Screemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> is PLS not the same standard as AH VA? how much difference can the panels make?


Panel information: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/panel_technologies_content.htm#pls

€dit: About the test at pcgh. They mention that the inputlag is quite high. 30ms is what they say.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Okay, thanks.
> 
> Even more reason for me to go with your true10...


Well if you want to run multi-monitor for sure. I don't see the point in getting a single input monitor.
As said just above though, you will have a bit more input lag than a non-multi-port display.

Another option you might want to consider, as pointed out by an OCN member was a Crossover 1440p model, that works fine with the Xbox @1080P via HDMI.

Really depends on use etc.

For me, here's the pros and cons of the true10 (just my thoughts, from reading other people's opinions) - over the regular version:
Pros:
-Colours are better
-Blacks are better
-Has multiple input - dispalys Xbox in 1080i/720p
-Supposedly better G2G latency (4ms vs 8ms)

Cons:
-Doesn't do 1080P on the Xbox properly
-Doesn't OC past 60hz (stock)
-Has a little input lag
-Is generally more expensive than the normal version


----------



## Screemi

the ebay-auctions defnitely state 75Hz as max. standard frequency without OC. Is that true?

http://flyingpon.com/company/test/monitor/qx2710-t10.jpg

can anybody tell me what the input lag of the samsung pls panels have been? the one used in the x-star dp2710 and qnix qn2710. because 30ms like messengered by pcgh.de seems pretty high to me.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well if you want to run multi-monitor for sure. I don't see the point in getting a single input monitor.
> As said just above though, you will have a bit more input lag than a non-multi-port display.
> 
> Another option you might want to consider, as pointed out by an OCN member was a Crossover 1440p model, that works fine with the Xbox @1080P via HDMI.
> 
> Really depends on use etc.
> 
> For me, here's the pros and cons of the true10 (just my thoughts, from reading other people's opinions) - over the regular version:
> Pros:
> -Colours are better
> -Blacks are better
> -Has multiple input - dispalys Xbox in 1080i/720p
> -Supposedly better G2G latency (4ms vs 8ms)
> 
> Cons:
> -Doesn't do 1080P on the Xbox properly
> -Doesn't OC past 60hz (stock)
> -Has a little input lag
> -Is generally more expensive than the normal version


Worse input lag than the non-true10?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Worse input lag than the non-true10?


yeah


----------



## chaoscontrol

So... better reactiontime but slower refreshrates and input lag. Why is which one important for gaming and how?


----------



## Balsagna

Alrighty, so I figured out all this good stuff now. My monitor is running at 120hz as I thought it was... sorta - That website test, is a pile of crap and just does not work with my setup.

Skyrim works as intended and a program I'm using which you can download here: http://goo.gl/IJkrf shows that it's performing as intended as well. Games that allow you to select the refresh rate in vertical sync mode would also help (BF3 and BF4 for example)

So yay, I'm a happy camper again! I'll be taking some pics of my setup sometime today


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yeah


30ms lag?

That seems quite high, I think this may turn me off getting one...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nnimrod*
> 
> So I just got mine today, and I've got a couple of dead/stuck pixels. Good news is I can't really notice them, because they're so small, and they appear to display some colors correctly. I've also got some very real BLB issues. Although, again, it's not too very apparent unless the screen is displaying a single color, like silver.
> 
> League of Legends appears a little choppier than before. Although my 580 still keeps it pinned at 60 fps. But I imagine this issue will be alleviated somewhat this weekend when I try to push for 120hz.
> 
> How do I adjust gamma? The only monitor buttons are brightness and (lol) volume.
> 
> Also, other than games and a very small selection of wallpapers, what is there to display at 1440p? No movies that I know of.


Brightness and volume is all you get.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keenerz*
> 
> yeah I kind of phrased it incorrectly but I mean't using one as a gaming monitor and one as a side monitor for other things. Like say I wanted to watch something or keep it open for other things. I read that there's just a limitation on bandwidth on trying to keep two 1440p monitors at 120hz going full sprint on just one GTX 780 Ti.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Skyrim works as intended and a program I'm using which you can download here: http://goo.gl/IJkrf shows that it's performing as intended as well. Games that allow you to select the refresh rate in vertical sync mode would also help (BF3 and BF4 for example)
> 
> So yay, I'm a happy camper again! I'll be taking some pics of my setup sometime today


I just tested running two 1440p's on one GTX 780TI (EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti Superclocked w/ACX Cooler) Only one of my two monitors will go to 120hz, the second goes to 110hz. So I ran BF4 on high settings at 120 hz, while at the same time watching a Blue-Ray movie (Ironman 3 if it matters). BF4 didn't move off 120hz (FRAPS), and the BR movie had smooth playback. I used the program in Balsagna's post to verify I was in fact at 120hz/110hz. The UFO test site worked fine on the 120hz monitor, but wouldn't sync on the 110hz monitor.

Under the above settings, the 780TI temps were stable at 64c, with the fan at 54%, so definitely not pushing the GPU to the max.

Based on this, I would say yes, you can run two 1440p's on a GTX 780TI, and yes, you can overclock two monitors at the same time from one Nvidia GPU.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nnimrod*
> 
> So I just got mine today, and I've got a couple of dead/stuck pixels. Good news is I can't really notice them, because they're so small, and they appear to display some colors correctly. I've also got some very real BLB issues. Although, again, it's not too very apparent unless the screen is displaying a single color, like silver.
> 
> League of Legends appears a little choppier than before. Although my 580 still keeps it pinned at 60 fps. But I imagine this issue will be alleviated somewhat this weekend when I try to push for 120hz.
> 
> How do I adjust gamma? The only monitor buttons are brightness and (lol) volume.
> 
> Also, other than games and a very small selection of wallpapers, what is there to display at 1440p? No movies that I know of.


REDACTED


----------



## Nostras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> League of Legends was fine for me, getting used to the screen size and what not is the hard part - Also, League of Legends VSync is capped at 60, you won't be going past that unfortunately, even overclocked to 120hz - However, depending on your setup, you could just uncap it anyways - I have 2x GTX 680's and running it as high as it will go, I don't really see over 120fps ever, so you won't get any screen tearing. YMMV


Not really sure what you're trying to say.
I just set my screen to 120Hz before I go ingame ( since I'm using borderless ) and VSYNC neatly fixes the fps at 120fps.
This way the 780Ti doesn't break a sweat and thus doesn't become noisy at all.

I've never ever had tearing on this screen.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I just tested running two 1440p's on one GTX 780TI (EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti Superclocked w/ACX Cooler) Only one of my two monitors will go to 120hz, the second goes to 110hz. So I ran BF4 on high settings at 120 hz, while at the same time watching a Blue-Ray movie (Ironman 3 if it matters). BF4 didn't move off 120hz (FRAPS), and the BR movie had smooth playback. I used the program in Balsagna's post to verify I was in fact at 120hz/110hz. The UFO test site worked fine on the 120hz monitor, but wouldn't sync on the 110hz monitor.
> 
> Under the above settings, the 780TI temps were stable at 64c, with the fan at 54%, so definitely not pushing the GPU to the max.


Great - I'm glad that program is of better use then that site. The OP should take it and put it in the Overclock Guide section as the test site just isn't that good and is unreliable. The program coupled with FRAPS is a better option.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> Not really sure what you're trying to say.
> I just set my screen to 120Hz before I go ingame ( since I'm using borderless ) and VSYNC neatly fixes the fps at 120fps.
> This way the 780Ti doesn't break a sweat and thus doesn't become noisy at all.
> 
> I've never ever had tearing on this screen.


It fixes League of Legends to 120fps in Vsync? Please test in this game if you don't mind - But what I'm trying to say is some games vsync do not correctly vsync to your 'monitors' refresh rate of 96, 110, 120 etc etc. It will vsync it to w/e they specify it. In my testing, LoL and TF2 was capped at 60fps since they're much older games and 120hz was theoretically unheard of.


----------



## Nostras

I've played over 100 games with this screen at 120hz so far.

Gimme a sec, I'll printscreen it for ya.


----------



## Screemi

the true10 multi input is definitely not overclockable. massive framedropps:



http://extreme.pcgameshardware.de/news-kommentare-zu-monitore/325183-qnix-qx2710-ubertaktbarer-27-zoll-wqhd-monitor-fuer-350-euro-4.html

looks exactly like the overclocking results of the benq Benq BL2710PT. seems like they used the same panel which is produced bei AU Opto (M270DAN01.1). It's not the same panel as in the benq but a "pimped" 10bit version of it. The partnumber is indicating it as well. The partnumber of the panel used in the Benq is M270DAN01.0.


----------



## Balsagna

No need, I just tested it again - Looks like the game glitched out on me when I tested and didn't apply. I'm hitting 120hz refresh now









Thanks for letting me go back and fix it. I was getting b ummed out since I play nothing but League of Legends mostly!


----------



## Nostras

Edit: Alright, good to hear


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nostras*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Alright, good to hear


Thanks, time to go try out TF2 and see what the deal was...

EDIT: Yeah TF2 will not go past 60. LoL, Skyrim, BF3 does.

I wonder if it has something to do about DX9


----------



## digitalforce

Sheesh -- Sorry all for the slow responses. My son was admitted to a hospital so that + full job + side work + a recent return of WoW addiction = NO TIME









Anywho, I am headed out of town so I sold the Overlord and sending back the True10. Sorry I didn't have time to do more color tests, etc. I REALLY am hoping for a Single input True10. That would be awesome with the VA panel.

I continue to be in love with my glossy/glass Qnix that was calibrated with the i1 Pro. Very beautiful screen.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Can anyone confirm completely that it is (not) possible to overclock with 2 monitors (one being stuck at 60hz) on a single nvidia GPU?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1446560/qnix-qx2710-dropping-frames-in-dual-monitor-mode


FYI, As I posted above, yes, you can overclock 2 monitors even if one is at 60Hz.

Totally Dubbed: The link you posted concluded that the "dropped frames" were software error, not a failure to overclock. Apparently a known issue with the software being used.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> a recent return of WoW addiction


I just retired after 10 years.

Hence wanting this new monitor and GPU to enjoy my backlog.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> FYI, As I posted above, yes, you can overclock 2 monitors even if one is at 60Hz.
> 
> Totally Dubbed: The link you posted concluded that the "dropped frames" were software error, not a failure to overclock. Apparently a known issue with the software being used.


indeed - so I'm mistaken in thinking they don't OC - they do.
Seems a little hit and miss though no?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Someone bought one of the $40 scam displays.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1475039/achieva-shimian-qh2700-ipsms-lite-edge-eco-27-83


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I just retired after 10 years.
> 
> Hence wanting this new monitor and GPU to enjoy my backlog.


I SWORE I would never touch WoW again but I am finding my 86 Disc Priest and 90 Frost Mage a blast to play..

.. to tie this into the thread, WoW looks amazing on my Qnix


----------



## Chowchilla

Think I'll hold off buying until we know more about the TRUE10. No rush


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> indeed - so I'm mistaken in thinking they don't OC - they do.
> Seems a little hit and miss though no?


True, but others have posted here about issues with the UFO test, even with just one monitor. Hard to tell if the hit or miss is with the hardware or software or both depending on the persons setup.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Think I'll hold off buying until we know more about the TRUE10. No rush


What else do you need to know about the TRUE10?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> What else do you need to know about the TRUE10?


Disregard that. I misread something.


----------



## aaaflyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> What else do you need to know about the TRUE10?


That it can overclock without frameskipping?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Think I'll hold off buying until we know more about the TRUE10. No rush


wait for TFT central's review I guess!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> True, but others have posted here about issues with the UFO test, even with just one monitor. Hard to tell if the hit or miss is with the hardware or software or both depending on the persons setup.


Could be both lol!


----------



## anthonyg45157

I'm in love with my xstar! I'm running the Asus icc profile and the color is mind blowing! It's given a new life to old games!!

Crysis 3 is absolutely mind blowing on this thing


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> That it can overclock without frameskipping?


Unless someone has found a tweak, no, it cannot overclock without frameskipping from my tests and findings. I tried 75hz, 96hz, 120hz, all had major frameskipping.


----------



## greddy2000

Hi,

Everyone just received my X-Star DP2710 a few days ago and have been itching to overclock. I used CRU to create a 108hz refresh rate and it is stable and beautiful. However after a reboot it reverts back to 60hz and I have to manually use AMD CCC to change to the 108hz profile. How can I force the 108hz profile through a reboot? In CRU i have 2 detailed resolutions the top one being the 108hz profile and the second being the 59.95hz profile. I thought the top should be seen as the primary and Windows/AMD CCC would use that.

I'm using Win 8.1 with a AMD 7870 card.

Any help?


----------



## apexhunter

Have you patched your drivers? Look in the first post for the patch by ToastyX.
The refresh rate that you set in CRU does not actually take effect until you either restart your pc or restart the display driver.


----------



## greddy2000

Yes I patched my driver. And yes I rebooted after creating the profile in CRU. Everything works, it just that the custom refresh rate doesnt persist after a reboot. it defaults back to 60hz and I have to manually select it.


----------



## hogofwar

What's the input lag like on a normal single input Qnix?


----------



## texuspete00

Well My x-star came in. I thought I might have some back light bleed in the top center, and "ips glow" in the bottom left, but maybe that is also backlight bleed? This picture looks bright, but yet somehow i think it understates bottom left corner issue.



Overall image is still nice. I recently bought an HP Zr30w despite the threads the 27" were better for gaming. I don't have prior experience with IPS glow, but the corners were definitely "glowy" in black scenes in the corners on the HP. I might have expecting too much (basically no glow) so long as I got lucky on this one. So BLB or glow? I pretty much know the funky stuff up top is blb.


----------



## apexhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greddy2000*
> 
> Yes I patched my driver. And yes I rebooted after creating the profile in CRU. Everything works, it just that the custom refresh rate doesnt persist after a reboot. it defaults back to 60hz and I have to manually select it.


I am not sure then, sorry. I am using a 1GB GDDR5 7570, probably the lowest of the cards and 117Hz seems to stick for me even after reboots. The only change I made in CCC was to untick "Alternate DVI operational mode" in Digital Flat Panel properties, but I do not think that really changes everything. Is your pixel clock in CRU is close to 450MHz?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> What's the input lag like on a normal single input Qnix?


http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html

IIRC is around 29ms total, give or take 3ms, I think that translates to 1-1.5 frames.

Quality/detailed reviews claim 1-3 ms of actual input lag, then you add that to the response time. Although that obviously doesn't add up to anything near 29, but I'm sure other reviews said it was near that.

There's a fair chance that I'm remembering the 29ms total delay as being for another display.

Matte single-input.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885

Notice it says 5-15 days to ship.

I also just thought of something, if the supply is almost gone, that leads me to wonder if they're now shipping out the ones people didn't want/returned.


----------



## greddy2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apexhunter*
> 
> I am not sure then, sorry. I am using a 1GB GDDR5 7570, probably the lowest of the cards and 117Hz seems to stick for me even after reboots. The only change I made in CCC was to untick "Alternate DVI operational mode" in Digital Flat Panel properties, but I do not think that really changes everything. Is your pixel clock in CRU is close to 450MHz?


What OS are you using? I wonder why Win 8.1 keeps wanting to boot into 60hz.


----------



## greddy2000

Yes my pixel clock is 451mhz


----------



## Screemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Unless someone has found a tweak, no, it cannot overclock without frameskipping from my tests and findings. I tried 75hz, 96hz, 120hz, all had major frameskipping.


i second that. did nobody read my post 3 pages back: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/16340#post_21983941

after i mentioned the benq and it's frameskipping in the pcghx.de-board the did a second run of tests and updated their article: http://translate.google.de/translate?hl=de&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pcgameshardware.de%2FLCD-Hardware-154105%2FTests%2FQnix-QX2710-Test-1114181%2F%23a6


----------



## hogofwar

I'm still waiting on my damn refund.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I'm still waiting on my damn refund.


has the monitor even left their warehouse or something?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> has the monitor even left their warehouse or something?


I don't think so, they are just veeeeeery slow to respond.

I swear to god, if they require me to message them back again to "confirm"....


----------



## Optimus1978

Well, it's the weekend again - so nothing will happen now till Monday

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Dhl are well on it! I presume my monitor will be here by Monday. Tuesday the latest!


----------



## olrusty

Just received my Qnix QX2710 last night through Amazon, fulfilled by ECOMADE ARENA. Ordered it Monday night around 6pm EST and it arrived at my house last night (Thursday). After it shipped it was pretty much overnighted from Korea, pretty damn impressive. Monitor came boxed as if on a shelf which worried me, even more so since there was an obvious dent and tear in the box near the bottom, with an open hole into the area where the monitor was. Considered shipping it back before opening, but decided to press ahead. Next issue was a stud on the monitor base which was cut or pressed in incorrectly. Ended up having to sand it down to fit it into the stand. I have a tiny line of 2-3 **** red/green pixels on the far right side of the monitor. Barely noticeable unless on a pure white screen and im an inch from the screen. Minimal BLB. Will post pictures of packaging and blb once I get home later tonight.

Edit -- Payed $345. Probably a bit more than Ebay, but I feel more confidant ordering through Amazon.


----------



## ajm261

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What software are you using to load the profile?


I'm using DisplayProfile from tftcentral. For whatever reason, I have to load my profile every time I boot


----------



## Screemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajm261*
> 
> I'm using DisplayProfile from tftcentral. For whatever reason, I have to load my profile every time I boot


CPKeeper could help: http://goebish.free.fr/cpk/

have you tried?


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Anyone have a good video/sequence of images whcih explains the black tape mod to fix BLB?



Cos I've got a fair bit in the bottom left hand corner - it's not too bad, but it sure sucks on dark bits of the games I play. Does one simply tape around the edge of the screen with tape?


----------



## olrusty

There is a breakdown in the FAQ section on the first page.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajm261*
> 
> I'm using DisplayProfile from tftcentral. For whatever reason, I have to load my profile every time I boot


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screemi*
> 
> CPKeeper could help: http://goebish.free.fr/cpk/
> 
> have you tried?


Try Color Sustainer, its nice


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Try Color Sustainer, its nice


Biased!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Biased!


I'll tell the developer you're interested!


----------



## SupahSpankeh

So - does my picture look like textbook BLB?


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> So - does my picture look like textbook BLB?


Definitely. I had a matte Qnix that looked the same but on top instead. I wanted to crack it open but after I got my glossy/glass Qnix, that has little to NO BLB, I sold that one and never cracked it open.


----------



## ajm261

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Try Color Sustainer, its nice


Going to give that a shot, thanks for the input


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajm261*
> 
> Going to give that a shot, thanks for the input


Gief feedback to the developer in his thread









Oh and grab v1.03.3 from the thread itself, along with v1.03. You'll need the v1.03 files to run v1.03.3.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I don't think so, they are just veeeeeery slow to respond.
> 
> I swear to god, if they require me to message them back again to "confirm"....


TA.Korea don't respond over the weekend. They'll respond to you at 5am on Monday with a refund request


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> TA.Korea don't respond over the weekend. They'll respond to you at 5am on Monday with a refund request


And by then my other offer would have expired...


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> And by then my other offer would have expired...


Have you accepted the offer? Don't you get 7 days to pay?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Have you accepted the offer? Don't you get 7 days to pay?


Honestly, no idea.

Oh well, Looks like I will be able to see what totally dubbed gets anyway!


----------



## ategro

Can I use one of these monitors with the DVI-I port on my MSI 780 Ti?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> Can I use one of these monitors with the DVI-I port on my MSI 780 Ti?


Yes, the MSI is setup the same as my EVGA so I know the QX2710 works in either (Both) DVI slots.


----------



## ategro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Yes, the MSI is setup the same as my EVGA so I know the QX2710 works in either (Both) DVI slots.


Thanks for your answer. Does it still overclock then?


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Around £215.
> Which is slightly cheaper than a normal QNIX, much cheaper than any 10bit you'll find and wouldn't have to worry about customs etc.
> It's also new, un-opened, so you can get a square trade warranty with it too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (another reason why I haven't opened it) - we could open it "together" and test it together too. If there's any problems (if there's any dead pixels or BLB), I'll give a full refund immediately and then claim it on the original ebay seller I bought it off. Simple as that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should note, as pointed out by our user digital:
> -Max OC 60hz - without skipping frames (in other words, above 60hz you would be skipping frames)
> -Has artefacts at 1080P on the Xbox, but not at 720P or 1080i


Where are you located in the UK?


----------



## nerdy1

Just got the Qnix Evolution II Glossy from Amazon and I like it. I am blow away by the resolution and the "shine" but I have a pixel suck on red and some light bleed on the bottom right corner. I tried adjusting the screw on the back by the corner and it did nothing. I have it clocked at 96hz using Nvidia's custom resolution and am using a 24 gauge dual d-vi cord from monoprice. Just wish there was an easy fix to the bleed.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> Thanks for your answer. Does it still overclock then?


The monitor? Yes. I actually had two connected for a while, one running at 120hz, the second running at 110hz. I couldn't tell you which one was plugged into which DVI port.


----------



## junkrok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Anyone have a good video/sequence of images whcih explains the black tape mod to fix BLB?
> 
> 
> 
> Cos I've got a fair bit in the bottom left hand corner - it's not too bad, but it sure sucks on dark bits of the games I play. Does one simply tape around the edge of the screen with tape?


I would read the OP about BLB picture taking. It is way too hard to tell what is BLB and what is PLS glow. I suspect a lot of folks on here are seeing normal PLS glow and claiming they have BLB.


----------



## ToastyX

Reading back on this thread has me frustrated. Why don't people read or follow instructions? Why do people use my software and then ignore the information on the download pages?

On top of that, I'm tired of dealing with driver bugs, especially NVIDIA. The vast majority of people having problems with refresh rates have NVIDIA cards and didn't follow the instructions to work around the problems. NVIDIA has two ways to overclock, and people are managing to screw up both methods.

Even worse, the OP linked to my overclocking guide but ignored the information in it and wrote incomplete and incorrect instructions.

Why does the OP say it is not necessary to do any patch for NVIDIA when it says to use CRU? If you use CRU, you MUST patch the driver even with a single GPU. If you have GeForce Experience installed, you MUST follow the workaround mentioned on the CRU download page. People keep skipping these steps and assuming CRU doesn't work when it's NVIDIA's driver that's causing these problems.

If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.

If you use the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU, you MUST install the .inf file or some games won't use the custom refresh rate. This is mentioned in the overclocking guide, but so many people are skipping this step because the OP didn't include this important information. You can use qnix.zip for the QNIX. If you're using Windows 8 or 8.1, you also have to disable driver signature enforcement before you can install it.

If you have an AMD/ATI card, you don't have to worry about all that nonsense. Just patch the driver and use CRU to add the refresh rate. The only issue is video acceleration won't work, but all you have to do is disable hardware acceleration in Flash and any decoders you're using.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Either the guide is wrong, or I'm missing something. What am I missing is the question:
> 
> Updated to latest drivers per step 1:
> http://prntscr.com/32bosh
> 
> re-patched the drivers and rebooted
> patched: http://prntscr.com/32bpbz
> 
> Downloaded and installed and created a custom resolution using that program and then rebooted
> 
> http://prntscr.com/32bs6e
> 
> Then, when I try to create a custom resolution using the NVCP - I get this:
> 
> http://prntscr.com/32btjg
> 
> And then, when you do check the NVCP to see if you have the drop down to select 120hz. I do have it, like so: http://prntscr.com/32btuv
> 
> And finally, this is what it looks like when I have it all selected: http://prntscr.com/32bu5k
> 
> But, when you go and run the test - I get this.... every freaking time.... http://prntscr.com/32bubp
> 
> *** is going on! It's making me angry now lol. I followed the directions correctly.


Your screen shots show you have GeForce Experience installed but didn't follow the workaround:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> *Note for NVIDIA users:* GeForce Experience is known to cause issues with EDID overrides such as resolutions being listed in the NVIDIA control panel but not in the Windows screen resolution settings. Either uninstall GeForce Experience, or enable the extension block and import this file: blank-extension.dat


If you choose to use the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU, you need to install the .inf file.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Thanks, time to go try out TF2 and see what the deal was...
> 
> EDIT: Yeah TF2 will not go past 60. LoL, Skyrim, BF3 does.


TF2 uses the desktop refresh rate. You should not be having problems with TF2 if you set everything up correctly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Youtube doesn't work after patching the GPU drivers to overclock my QNIX 2710. What is the fix to this? I couldn't find it in the OP.


You need to disable hardware acceleration in the Flash player settings. This is mentioned on the download page for the patcher.


----------



## apexhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greddy2000*
> 
> What OS are you using? I wonder why Win 8.1 keeps wanting to boot into 60hz.


I am on 8.1 too, with the spring update.
Make sure you go into device manager and (automatically) update the display driver there. This fixed a lot of issues for me.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Reading back on this thread has me frustrated. Why don't people read or follow instructions? Why do people use my software and then ignore the information on the download pages?
> 
> On top of that, I'm tired of dealing with driver bugs, especially NVIDIA. The vast majority of people having problems with refresh rates have NVIDIA cards and didn't follow the instructions to work around the problems. NVIDIA has two ways to overclock, and people are managing to screw up both methods.
> 
> Even worse, the OP linked to my overclocking guide but ignored the information in it and wrote incomplete and incorrect instructions.
> 
> Why does the OP say it is not necessary to do any patch for NVIDIA when it says to use CRU? If you use CRU, you MUST patch the driver even with a single GPU. If you have GeForce Experience installed, you MUST follow the workaround mentioned on the CRU download page. People keep skipping these steps and assuming CRU doesn't work when it's NVIDIA's driver that's causing these problems.
> 
> If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
> 
> If you use the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU, you MUST install the .inf file or some games won't use the custom refresh rate. This is mentioned in the overclocking guide, but so many people are skipping this step because the OP didn't include this important information. You can use qnix.zip for the QNIX. If you're using Windows 8 or 8.1, you also have to disable driver signature enforcement before you can install it.
> 
> If you have an AMD/ATI card, you don't have to worry about all that nonsense. Just patch the driver and use CRU to add the refresh rate. The only issue is video acceleration won't work, but all you have to do is disable hardware acceleration in Flash and any decoders you're using.
> Your screen shots show you have GeForce Experience installed but didn't follow the workaround:
> If you choose to use the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU, you need to install the .inf file.
> TF2 uses the desktop refresh rate. You should not be having problems with TF2 if you set everything up correctly.
> You need to disable hardware acceleration in the Flash player settings. This is mentioned on the download page for the patcher.


It's working correctly for me now except for TF2 and that website - I followed the guide in the OP which as you also stated, is incorrect - I think that should be rewritten or acknowledged to also follow your directions with your program. I opted to solely use the NVCP and not the program . I did patch the drivers and everything is working as intended except for those 2 areas now.

EDIT: Installed the INF you provided as well as tried uninstalled Geforce Experience. The test site linked in the OP still does not go above 60hz nor does TF2 - Everything else I have tested against is working fine at 120hz.

Can someone else please test against TF2 for me?


----------



## Screemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Perhaps that INF file will fix it, can you please link me to it?


after your post i really get why toastyx is upset. follow his oc guide and not the op and you'll be good. he even linked the inf you're asking for. just a hint "qnix.zip".

thumpsup for toastyx and thanks for not just baling out, like others did.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screemi*
> 
> after your post i really get why toastyx is upset. follow his oc guide and not the op and you'll be good. he even linked the inf you're asking for. just a hint "qnix.zip".
> 
> thumpsup for toastyx and thanks for not just baling out, like others did.


Oops - I'm sorry I missed the link. I have been on my phone at work with little service trying to catch up on all of this. The problem is there isn't enough credit going to Toasty with the proper directions and out of the 100 something posts I did read with issues, not a single person mentioned HIS overclock guide to get things running correclty. As someone who doesn't follow the thread religiously, I follow what's in the OP as I trust that it's the correct/ up to date information - which is clearly not the case.

Upset or not, this valuable information is going to get overlooked by many people when it's simply in a couple posts out of 1600+ pages....


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> EDIT: Installed the INF you provided as well as tried uninstalled Geforce Experience. The test site linked in the OP still does not go above 60hz nor does TF2 - Everything else I have tested against is working fine at 120hz.


Try rebooting if you haven't already. You don't need to worry about GeForce Experience if you're using the NVIDIA control panel.

I noticed someone told you to disable desktop composition. The test site requires desktop composition to be enabled to work properly, while Refresh Rate Multitool requires it to be disabled (which isn't an option in Windows 8). If you have a second monitor connected running at 60 Hz, that can cause the browser to synchronize at the wrong refresh rate.

If you're not using CRU anymore, run reset-all.exe and reboot to remove any EDID overrides that might be left over.


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdy1*
> 
> Just got the Qnix Evolution II Glossy from Amazon and I like it. I am blow away by the resolution and the "shine" but I have a pixel suck on red and some light bleed on the bottom right corner. I tried adjusting the screw on the back by the corner and it did nothing. I have it clocked at 96hz using Nvidia's custom resolution and am using a 24 gauge dual d-vi cord from monoprice. Just wish there was an easy fix to the bleed.


Congratz with your QNIX!
Just curious, did you buy this one and is it a REAL glossy one?

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395481469&sr=1-1&keywords=qnix+qx2710+glossy

Tnx in advance


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Where are you located in the UK?


London mate









In other news: DHL are ridiculously fast!!!!
Got this text today (Saturday)

DHL would like to deliver a shipment with Ref x, however, £16 is payable for Duty & VAT. Please make payment at www.dhl.co.uk/epayments

+rep to toasty btw


----------



## DiceAir

Ok so I'm sort of having some issues.

I have been running 120hz for some time about 3-4 months now and no issues. but when I watch some videos and sometimes browsing but mostly movies i will see a green line for maybe quarter of a second or maybe even faster than that. When i game I don't see that should i be worried and maybe back down to 110Hz? here is my settings for 120hz



BTW i'm using VLC to play my videos. Should i turn of hardware acceleration in VLC when playing videos? Maybe that can cause the green lines etc etc.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> London mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news: DHL are ridiculously fast!!!!
> Got this text today (Saturday)
> 
> DHL would like to deliver a shipment with Ref x, however, £16 is payable for Duty & VAT. Please make payment at www.dhl.co.uk/epayments
> 
> +rep to toasty btw


What price was it marked down to?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> What price was it marked down to?


supposedly $100 and gift. I'll confirm when I have the customs slip and form that comes with the monitor, when dhl release the monitor, after I pay them.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> supposedly $100 and gift. I'll confirm when I have the customs slip and form that comes with the monitor, when dhl release the monitor, after I pay them.


Speedy indeed! I'll be getting the same speed hopefully!


----------



## UKSimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> supposedly $100 and gift. I'll confirm when I have the customs slip and form that comes with the monitor, when dhl release the monitor, after I pay them.


Hmmm... so a new monitor has arrived? Which seller did you buy it from?


----------



## DiceAir

So far I have this settings but haven't tested a video long enough at least I still get correct display in games.



I have ulps enabled. Should I disable it to even give me some fps boost or to make my video playback a bit beter seeing as even if you disable hardware acceleration it will still use some of your video card.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Speedy indeed! I'll be getting the same speed hopefully!


yup!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKSimmer*
> 
> Hmmm... so a new monitor has arrived? Which seller did you buy it from?


storewithstory:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331134376244?item=331134376244&autorefresh=true


----------



## chaoscontrol

09:21 22-Mar-2014 Received by Air carrier INCHEON

Awwwwyeah!









(And rep Toasy!)


----------



## greddy2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Reading back on this thread has me frustrated. Why don't people read or follow instructions? Why do people use my software and then ignore the information on the download pages?
> 
> If you have an AMD/ATI card, you don't have to worry about all that nonsense. Just patch the driver and use CRU to add the refresh rate. The only issue is video acceleration won't work, but all you have to do is disable hardware acceleration in Flash and any decoders you're using.
> .


Toasty,

Any ideas on why after patching the AMD driver, and then in CRU creating a 112hz refresh rate in Win 8.1 (on an X-Star DP2710) Windows *won't* use the 112hz rate as default. After every reboot it defaults back to 60hz and I have to go in CCC and manually select 112hz from the drop down menu?


----------



## ackblom

I haven't been very lucky with Korean monitors at first

I sent back two Qnix 2710's to accessorieswhole. The first one was a non pixel perfect version and it had 5 pieces of dust and stuck red pixel in the middle of the screen. To make the things worse it also had terrible horizontal banding. The second one (perfect pixel) had the worst tint that I have ever seen on any monitor:



http://imgur.com/iUwiupm


The seller offered a partial refund in both cases but I couldn't justify keeping them. Both monitors were simply a pain to look at. I do have to admit that that the communication with accessorieswhole went really smooth but returning both monitors was a major pain in the backside nevertheless. Also, I still have to go through the process of getting my tax back. Already submitted one form to HMRC and I am yet to hear from them.

Anyway, after getting two duds from accessorieswhole I decided to get the Ultimate Pixel Perfect from excellentcastle as they were highly recommended in this thread. Got the monitor and it is pixel perfect indeed. No backlight bleed, no dust under the screen, no bad tinting and it overclocks to 120Hz without any problems. Got Squaretrade warranty for it as well. Better safe than sorry...

So far I've been running it at 60Hz (desktop) and 96Hz (gaming). However, I was wondering whether it was safe to keep it at 96Hz all the time? 96Hz is sufficient because my GTX 680 SLI setup is unable to hit 120fps on ultra settings in most games anyway. I have already searched this thread and 120hz.net but I haven't managed to find any info or any post which clearly states that running those monitors overclocked 24/7 considerably shortens their life or can lead to any issues.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Reading back on this thread has me frustrated. Why don't people read or follow instructions? Why do people use my software and then ignore the information on the download pages?
> 
> On top of that, I'm tired of dealing with driver bugs, especially NVIDIA. The vast majority of people having problems with refresh rates have NVIDIA cards and didn't follow the instructions to work around the problems. NVIDIA has two ways to overclock, and people are managing to screw up both methods.
> 
> Even worse, the OP linked to my overclocking guide but ignored the information in it and wrote incomplete and incorrect instructions.
> 
> Why does the OP say it is not necessary to do any patch for NVIDIA when it says to use CRU? If you use CRU, you MUST patch the driver even with a single GPU. If you have GeForce Experience installed, you MUST follow the workaround mentioned on the CRU download page. People keep skipping these steps and assuming CRU doesn't work when it's NVIDIA's driver that's causing these problems.
> 
> If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
> 
> If you use the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU, you MUST install the .inf file or some games won't use the custom refresh rate. This is mentioned in the overclocking guide, but so many people are skipping this step because the OP didn't include this important information. You can use qnix.zip for the QNIX. If you're using Windows 8 or 8.1, you also have to disable driver signature enforcement before you can install it.
> 
> If you have an AMD/ATI card, you don't have to worry about all that nonsense. Just patch the driver and use CRU to add the refresh rate. The only issue is video acceleration won't work, but all you have to do is disable hardware acceleration in Flash and any decoders you're using.
> Your screen shots show you have GeForce Experience installed but didn't follow the workaround:
> If you choose to use the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU, you need to install the .inf file.
> TF2 uses the desktop refresh rate. You should not be having problems with TF2 if you set everything up correctly.
> You need to disable hardware acceleration in the Flash player settings. This is mentioned on the download page for the patcher.


Thanks for your guide, I was quite puzzled why I couldn't get past 85hz.


----------



## nerdy1

Yes, that's th
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronalddus*
> 
> Congratz with your QNIX!
> Just curious, did you buy this one and is it a REAL glossy one?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395481469&sr=1-1&keywords=qnix+qx2710+glossy
> 
> Tnx in advance


Yes, that's the one. Backlight bleed is getting better


----------



## Optimus1978

Anyone think it my be good to ask if this forum an be split into sub forums the size it's getting ? Example orders, issues, overclocking, photos?? Just an idea , as it's hard to keep track 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jakare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackblom*
> 
> I haven't been very lucky with Korean monitors at first
> 
> *The seller offered a partial refund* in both cases but I couldn't justify keeping them. Both monitors were simply a pain to look at. I do have to admit that that the communication with accessorieswhole went really smooth but returning both monitors was a major pain in the backside nevertheless. Also, I still have to go through the process of getting my tax back. Already submitted one form to HMRC and I am yet to hear from them.


What amount were you offered? I already opened a case in Ebay and sent the videos with the fault to ta-korea but the monitor is quite likeable and I wouldn't mind to accept a reasonable partial refund instead of sending it back.

Thanks


----------



## ackblom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakare*
> 
> What amount were you offered? I already opened a case in Ebay and sent the videos with the fault to ta-korea but the monitor is quite likeable and I wouldn't mind to accept a reasonable partial refund instead of sending it back.
> 
> Thanks


Sorry mate, they were so bad that I didn't even bother asking how much they were willing to refund.

This was the first monitor I got:

Stuck red pixel right in the middle of the screen and at least 5 big pieces of dust around it:



http://imgur.com/2b8P14L




http://imgur.com/AOtTGYU


Horizontal banding:



http://imgur.com/xQrE3T2


The second one had terrible tint.

The one I bought from excellentcastle is very good compared to those two. It has some minor imperfections but I don't have severe OCD so can live with them


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackblom*
> 
> Sorry mate, they were so bad that I didn't even bother asking how much they were willing to refund.
> 
> This was the first monitor I got:
> 
> Stuck red pixel right in the middle of the screen and at least 5 big pieces of dust around it:
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/2b8P14L
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/AOtTGYU
> 
> 
> Horizontal banding:
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/xQrE3T2
> 
> 
> The second one had terrible tint.
> 
> The one I bought from excellentcastle is very good compared to those two. It has some minor imperfections but I don't have severe OCD so can live with them


That's bit too much for me. I wouldn't ever accept a partial refund, just a full one.


----------



## iCrap

The one i won off ebay FINALLY showed up after over a week

Its a real glossy!


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> The one i won off ebay FINALLY showed up after over a week
> 
> Its a real glossy!


THAT THING IS HUGE

Caps lock was needed to emphasis how FREAKING HUGE THAT THING LOOKS.


----------



## iCrap

yes it is quite large!


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> yes it is quite large!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> yes it is quite large!


We have the same mouse pad, but I make mine look better.


----------



## hogofwar

How much was the glossy?


----------



## iCrap

$300 shipped.

And my mousepad is like 5yrs old lol


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> And my mousepad is like 5yrs old lol


Throw it in the washing machine with cold water.

I really want my future Korean display to be glossy, but I know I'd instantly regret it with a window on the opposite end of my entertainment room.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> The one i won off ebay FINALLY showed up after over a week
> 
> Its a real glossy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats a super glossy one









How much did it cost you if i may ask?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greddy2000*
> 
> Any ideas on why after patching the AMD driver, and then in CRU creating a 112hz refresh rate in Win 8.1 (on an X-Star DP2710) Windows *won't* use the 112hz rate as default. After every reboot it defaults back to 60hz and I have to go in CCC and manually select 112hz from the drop down menu?


After rebooting, is 112 Hz available in the Windows screen resolution advanced settings? If so, what happens if you set it there instead of CCC?


----------



## greddy2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> After rebooting, is 112 Hz available in the Windows screen resolution advanced settings? If so, what happens if you set it there instead of CCC?


112hz is available from Windows screen resolution advanced settings but the exact same thing happens. It does not want to "stick" after a reboot if i I select it in windows or if I select it in CCC.

Note: I've noticed this problem doesnt happen 100% of time, but I would say on 90% of my reboots the refresh rate goes back to 60hz.. There has been the odd time where it "sticks" but I don't know why.

I tried installing the qnix.inf file you posted earlier but that didnt seem to make a difference.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Thats a super glossy one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much did it cost you if i may ask?


It was $300 shipped.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Throw it in the washing machine with cold water.
> 
> I really want my future Korean display to be glossy, but I know I'd instantly regret it with a window on the opposite end of my entertainment room.


I have 2 windows directly behind me with sun shining in, it's fine really. If it really bugs me then i just close the window. But its really not an issue.
And ill try washing the mosuepad and see if that helps.


----------



## darxider

@ToastyX, is there a difference in overclocking outcome/procedure (except for the driver signature thing!) depending on the OS being Windows 7 or Windows 8?


----------



## ategro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> It was $300 shipped.


Who did you buy from?


----------



## iCrap

someone on eBay was selling it...

BUT. damnit this just happened. does anyone know what could be the cause and how to fix?
(the line)


----------



## jakare

I have that problem if I overclock too high.


----------



## pk7677

Well it looks like my screen has died after couple month of use. I went on vacation last week, unplugged everything came back and BAM! black screen of death. It also makes a continues clicking noise when its on. There is no light to indicate if the screen is on or off, no red or blue lights, just black screen and clicking sound looping over and over again. When I bought mine there was no warranty so I'm kinda screwed. I do loved it while it lasted, before I throw this thing away is there anything else I should try and maybe just maybe bring this sucker back to life?


----------



## iCrap

Trying out some portrait.....


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pk7677*
> 
> Well it looks like my screen has died after couple month of use. I went on vacation last week, unplugged everything came back and BAM! black screen of death. It also makes a continues clicking noise when its on. There is no light to indicate if the screen is on or off, no red or blue lights, just black screen and clicking sound looping over and over again. When I bought mine there was no warranty so I'm kinda screwed. I do loved it while it lasted, before I throw this thing away is there anything else I should try and maybe just maybe bring this sucker back to life?


That scares me.

Was it OC'd ?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pk7677*
> 
> Well it looks like my screen has died after couple month of use. I went on vacation last week, unplugged everything came back and BAM! black screen of death. It also makes a continues clicking noise when its on. There is no light to indicate if the screen is on or off, no red or blue lights, just black screen and clicking sound looping over and over again. When I bought mine there was no warranty so I'm kinda screwed. I do loved it while it lasted, before I throw this thing away is there anything else I should try and maybe just maybe bring this sucker back to life?


From dream-seller (_my seller_):
Quote:


> Most of our products have one-year-long warranty except for misuse or improper installation of the buyer.
> Shipping cost will be charged on buyer's side.
> Please contact us if you'd like to know full warranty details.


----------



## iCrap




----------



## Ascii Aficionado

The varying colors on the displays would annoy me to no end.


----------



## iCrap

Not as annoying as the stupid bezels.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Not as annoying as the stupid bezels.


Agreed, but that's something that can't be changed or exists in all setups.

Or is there something different about yours ?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Hey everyone. I'm having a bit of a problem. I've had the 27" 1440P X-Star model for almost 2 months. Today, I was working on it, no problem. I went downstairs to get some water, came back and saw that my PC had crashed. no biggie, I thought. So I just restarted my PC and I've been noticing the backlight of the monitor flickering. If I turn down the brightness to 0, there is no flickering (cause no backlight on), but even 1 step up I can see the monitor flickering. Is there any way to fix this?

I had my monitor OCed to 120hz but even bringing it back down to 60hz doesn't fix anything.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*


This is beautiful. . How is the immersion factor?

Far cry 3 was one of the few games that really sucked me into the game. At some points I felt like I was in the jungle lol:thumb:


----------



## pk7677

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> That scares me.
> 
> Was it OC'd ?


yes it was OC'd to 110hz for gaming, I'm buying a BENQ or ASUS next I guess, my adventure with korean monitor ends here


----------



## iCrap

I love the giant effective 51" display i get from this, but the bezels may kill it for me

My displays are debezeled btw, so these are as small as the bezels ever can be.

Still undecided if i will leave it like this OR switch back to landscape.


----------



## jameyscott

Portrait for the win. The only thing it isn't good for in my opinion is video viewing. I just use Chromecast for that though.


----------



## iCrap

i watched a 4k vid and i have to say, it looks fantastic. The borders are annoying but i could live with it for video watching.

pic of a random 4k vid i downloaded.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> @ToastyX, is there a difference in overclocking outcome/procedure (except for the driver signature thing!) depending on the OS being Windows 7 or Windows 8?


No.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Hi,

Has anyone managed to set custom refresh rates using the latest AMD 14.3 beta drivers?

The driver patches using ATI 1.2.3 and the custom resolutions can be added to the CRU 1.1.1 but when trying to select it under screen resolutions/advanced settings/monitor there are no options besides 60hz.

qx2710 + r9 290


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greddy2000*
> 
> 112hz is available from Windows screen resolution advanced settings but the exact same thing happens. It does not want to "stick" after a reboot if i I select it in windows or if I select it in CCC.
> 
> Note: I've noticed this problem doesnt happen 100% of time, but I would say on 90% of my reboots the refresh rate goes back to 60hz.. There has been the odd time where it "sticks" but I don't know why.


I have no idea. I've never seen that happen myself. It's not a CRU or patch issue because the refresh rate is available.

It might be an AMD driver bug. Some people with Windows 8.1 and R9 290/290X cards reported problems with refresh rates not working properly after rebooting, but I haven't heard of that happening with older cards. The workaround in that case is to restart the video driver: http://www.monitortests.com/restart.zip

If that works, rename restart64.exe to restart-only.exe and put it in the Startup folder (Win+R shell:startup) to run it automatically after rebooting.

If that doesn't help, then you're having a different issue. Try completely uninstalling the driver using this: http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/

Then reinstall the driver. You'll have to patch the driver and add the custom resolution again.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> Has anyone managed to set custom refresh rates using the latest AMD 14.3 beta drivers?
> 
> The driver patches using ATI 1.2.3 and the custom resolutions can be added to the CRU 1.1.1 but when trying to select it under screen resolutions/advanced settings/monitor there are no options besides 60hz.
> 
> qx2710 + r9 290


Do you happen to have Windows 8.1? See the previous reply for a workaround.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Do you happen to have Windows 8.1? See the previous reply for a workaround.


Yea, just strange I was just running 13.12 drivers 2 hours ago with the OC.

PS. Thank you for your great work!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> The one i won off ebay FINALLY showed up after over a week
> 
> Its a real glossy!


In your picture your panel is still sat in the metal frame with the rails screwed to the sides of the metal frame holding it in the case!...you con not tell if it a real glossy unless you remove pull the rails from the side of the cast lift the monitor upwards slowly so as you can unplug the wires from the back of the panel...then lift the panel out of the case and take it to your dining room table or some flat working space!.. Then you need remove the 2 rail from the side of the frame and then remove the metal frame!....Now you will be able to tell if its a true glossy...if you have tempered glass sitting underneath the metal frame sitting on top of a matte screen it is not a true glossy!...if you have do not have glass under that frame then it really is a true glossy!...simply removing the plastic bezel will not tell you anything


----------



## hogofwar

I think I may not go for a new display, I would like to wait until they get a bit cheaper again, as well as when i am in a better financial position (gotta insure my car). Maybe someday though, maybe someday.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> In your picture your panel is still sat in the metal frame with the rails screwed to the sides of the metal frame holding it in the case!...you con not tell if it a real glossy unless you remove pull the rails from the side of the cast lift the monitor upwards slowly so as you can unplug the wires from the back of the panel...then lift the panel out of the case and take it to your dining room table or some flat working space!.. Then you need remove the 2 rail from the side of the frame and then remove the metal frame!....Now you will be able to tell if its a true glossy...if you have tempered glass sitting underneath the metal frame sitting on top of a matte screen it is not a true glossy!...if you have do not have glass under that frame then it really is a true glossy!...simply removing the plastic bezel will not tell you anything


I've already done that. It's a true glossy.

But there is a freaking blue line through the display. Its really annoying and i dont know what to do about it
.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I've already done that. It's a true glossy.
> 
> But there is a freaking blue line through the display. Its really annoying and i dont know what to do about it
> .


I'm assuming you aren't OCed?


----------



## iCrap

No OC.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I have no idea. I've never seen that happen myself. It's not a CRU or patch issue because the refresh rate is available.
> 
> It might be an AMD driver bug. Some people with Windows 8.1 and R9 290/290X cards reported problems with refresh rates not working properly after rebooting, but I haven't heard of that happening with older cards. The workaround in that case is to restart the video driver: http://www.monitortests.com/restart.zip
> 
> If that works, rename restart64.exe to restart-only.exe and put it in the Startup folder (Win+R shell:startup) to run it automatically after rebooting.
> 
> If that doesn't help, then you're having a different issue. Try completely uninstalling the driver using this: http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/
> 
> Then reinstall the driver. You'll have to patch the driver and add the custom resolution again.


The restart64 solving the CRU OC problem with 14.3 beta driver. r9 290


----------



## iCrap

put a white screen up to show the line more clearly... what do i do


----------



## Watagump

About all you can do is try talking with the seller.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> put a white screen up to show the line more clearly... what do i do


I would return it and the one that has "off" colours.

Think of the long run, not the short run "Omg this is cool, I have 3 screens" type-thing.


----------



## iCrap

I'm gonna try and return it all and then just get a new pair of matching ones i guess... so annoying.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I'm gonna try and return it all and then just get a new pair of matching ones i guess... so annoying.


you have trouble doing that, as the seller might not accept, but the ones that are faulty have got no excuse. One of them has that line, another deluded colours. Which seller was it from?


----------



## iCrap

Seller agreed to a refund

I will buy 2 monex panels when i get my money back.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Glossy-Screen-New-27-MONEX-M27QSM-QHD-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-Monitor-2560x1440-/321304338403?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf3b1fe3


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Seller agreed to a refund
> 
> I will buy 2 monex panels when i get my money back.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Glossy-Screen-New-27-MONEX-M27QSM-QHD-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-Monitor-2560x1440-/321304338403?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf3b1fe3


Those have LED PWM Dimming issues btw.

I'm also contemplating this display as I like the bezel better, but I'd get a matte version.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Those have LED PWM Dimming issues btw.
> 
> I'm also contemplating this display as I like the bezel better, but I'd get a matte version.


Can you explain that? So will it flicker or something? Is it still an issue if only ever run max brightness?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Can you explain that? So will it flicker or something? Is it still an issue if only ever run max brightness?


PWM is something that can cause headaches to people sensitive to it. My PB278Q went back because of PWM dimming.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Can you explain that? So will it flicker or something? Is it still an issue if only ever run max brightness?


Detailed review of your display.- http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14903-monex-m27qsm-review-glossy-2560x1440-pls.html

And this is about the PWM issue - http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/14903-monex-m27qsm-review-glossy-2560x1440-pls.html#post1199629

I think the PWM, not being overclockable at all, and the default color calibration are the main issues.


----------



## iCrap

in the review he said it OCs to 96hz. So that's fine. I already own a color calibrator so that should be a non issue also.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> in the review he said it OCs to 96hz. So that's fine. I already own a color calibrator so that should be a non issue also.


Well that's good, I remember other people saying it doesn't OC at all. I read that review a while ago, but forgot some of it, which is normal.


----------



## Watagump

Monex do not overclock.

From the review, post #17.

The Monex accepts higher hz signals but greats them with a black screen...in other words it can not overclock.


----------



## iCrap

The Monexs would be just for side displays.. do you think the PWM would really be that much of an issue? What does it look like anyways, flickering?

Honestly i can't tell the difference between 120 and 60hz. The lack of OC really won't matter to me.


----------



## bluedevil

Well I hooked up the Qnix again tonite. Took a few pix.




Now that I have the AMD patch installed, LETS SEE WHAT THIS CAN DO!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> The Monexs would be just for side displays.. do you think the PWM would really be that much of an issue? What does it look like anyways, flickering?
> 
> Honestly i can't tell the difference between 120 and 60hz. The lack of OC really won't matter to me.


I didn't notice the PWM dimming at all, apparently its not visible from what I have read. Its the only monitor I have owned that did give me headaches. I knew about it going in, tried the monitor anyhow, you wont know if it affects you without trying them, that's the bad thing.


----------



## MenacingTuba

The Monex has a lower (175hz) LED PWM Dimming Frequency (Read about the Side Effects) than the PB278Q (240hz). I could not see the PB278Q flickering but could see obvious flickering on the Monex.


----------



## bluedevil

Well, I really did fix the stuck pixel. It truely is PP. Now do I have backlight bleed?

Oh and I got it up to 96hz!


----------



## iCrap

I'm not even sure if the seller wants me to send the monitor back as they already refunded my money. Strange.

edit
nevermind they asked me to send it back.


----------



## travanx

I just put a new computer together but reused my Radeon XFX 7950. For some reason WIndows decided to bite the dust tonight, or so I thought. After formatting and reinstalling everything I plugged the 2nd Qnix into my 7950 and Windows would error at boot. Removed the monitor and it was fine. Played around with this and figured out how to run the 2nd monitor off of the onboard Intel HD 4600. Running that at a lower frequency gave weird looking artifacts. So I kept plugging the monitors in and switching ports on the 7950 until they were both finally recognized.

So now the main monitor looks right and the 2nd has a slight flicker, barely noticeable. The XFX has 2 DVI ports. I assume the 2nd one is single and that's why I am having these issues.

So what single slot video card, just as well upgrade from the 7950 if that is the fix, can run both monitors properly? Can I buy an adapter instead? The card has 2 mini displayports.

*For those that want to get this working with onboard video*, use DTD calculator from here http://www.avsforum.com/t/947830/custom-resolution-tool-for-intel-graphics-easier-overscan-correction

Use these settings from here http://forum.notebookreview.com/sony/602724-success-2560x1440-support-new-vpc-z2-dell-u2711.html
Reboot.

Plug the monitor into the DVI port on the motherboard.
Right click on desktop->screen resolution.
Click detect.
Click the another display not detected graphic until you find the one that says Intel HD under display dropdown.
Under multiple displays click *try to connect VGA anyways*.
Apply.
Under Multiple Displays select *extend desktop to this display*.
Apply.
And the QNIX should be found. Verify by going into Intel Graphics control panel.

For me the Intel control panel would not come up without selecting the connect VGA option. Custommodeapp would not let me edit the Intel graphic settings to get the right resolution and refresh rate. Something about exceeding maximum bandwidth. So DTD calculator forces the settings with a registry hack. I wonder if the DTD settings can be tweaked to make the monitor look halfway decent with onboard video?

This worked on an Asrock Z87E-ITX and Intel 4770k for one monitor and Radeon XFX 7950 as the primary monitor.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I'm not even sure if the seller wants me to send the monitor back as they already refunded my money. Strange.
> 
> edit
> nevermind they asked me to send it back.


you have to pay postage though?


----------



## Tom114

Hi guys, I'm really enjoying my Qnix with my pc but I'm starting to hate not being able to connect my xbox 360 to my monitor. What would be the cheapest/best way to be able to connect it? I already tried a HDMI to DVI-D cable, I get a few colored lines but not more than that. I'll probably have to buy a scaler right?


----------



## iZver

Sooo.... I think I will buy either the qnix or the x-star. Which one is irrelevant, I'll decide later. But what I do want to ask you is this:

If I manage to OC it to 120hz, will I be able to push 120FPS to the monitor? So I'll get 120fps which is so hyped by the TFT gaming monitors? Or will the low response time limit that?
What is the relation between response time and refresh rate here exactly? And which is more important for gaming?


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iZver*
> 
> Sooo.... I think I will buy either the qnix or the x-star. Which one is irrelevant, I'll decide later. But what I do want to ask you is this:
> 
> If I manage to OC it to 120hz, will I be able to push 120FPS to the monitor? So I'll get 120fps which is so hyped by the TFT gaming monitors? Or will the low response time limit that?
> What is the relation between response time and refresh rate here exactly? And which is more important for gaming?


AFAIK the input lag en MS response time is what delays you of your input being shown on screen. The refreshrate decides how many pictures a monitor wil show any given second (60, 96 or 120 are popular here).

Correct me if I'm wrong please.


----------



## Forceman

Response time is the inverse of the [maximum] refresh rate - so a panel with a 16ms response time would be limited to 60Hz refresh. I don't know of what the response time is of these panels, but it only needs to be 8ms to support 120Hz, and they seem to be at least that good. So you should be able to get a true 120FPS out of them.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Any ideas when TFT Central will complete their QNIX 10bit review?
I don't like the navigation of their site in all honesty.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *travanx*
> 
> So what single slot video card, just as well upgrade from the 7950 if that is the fix, can run both monitors properly? Can I buy an adapter instead? The card has 2 mini displayports.


You should be able to use a powered (mini) displayport to DL DVI adaptor. I've tested them on a 7970 with no problems.


----------



## Chowchilla

Storewithstory accepted my offer. looks like ill get getting a QNIX finally.


----------



## bluedevil

Yup fully stable at 96hz.


----------



## greddy2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I have no idea. I've never seen that happen myself. It's not a CRU or patch issue because the refresh rate is available.
> 
> It might be an AMD driver bug. Some people with Windows 8.1 and R9 290/290X cards reported problems with refresh rates not working properly after rebooting, but I haven't heard of that happening with older cards. The workaround in that case is to restart the video driver: http://www.monitortests.com/restart.zip
> 
> If that works, rename restart64.exe to restart-only.exe and put it in the Startup folder (Win+R shell:startup) to run it automatically after rebooting.
> 
> If that doesn't help, then you're having a different issue. Try completely uninstalling the driver using this: http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/
> 
> Then reinstall the driver. You'll have to patch the driver and add the custom resolution again.


The restart workaround seems to have fixed it. I will test further thoughout the day with multiple on/offs to see if it is a consistent workaround. Thank you for all the suggestions and thank you for this piece of software.


----------



## Optimus1978

I've asked ta-Korea about my order, been ordered a week tomorrow and not shipped (even though was told Thursday or Friday), to be honest I'm expecting an offer for a True10, as they have stopped selling the original :-(

To be honest, I'm bored of waiting now and looks like the originals have dried up, as he's not selling them anymore.

I guess a True 10 isn't that bad? I won't connect anything else to it and apart from the odd battlefield 4 game I'm not a serious gamer.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hogofwar

There, cancelled my square trade. Maybe later for a korean monitor for me, maybe a few months.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> I've asked ta-Korea about my order, been ordered a week tomorrow and not shipped (even though was told Thursday or Friday), to be honest I'm expecting an offer for a True10, as they have stopped selling the original :-(
> 
> To be honest, I'm bored of waiting now and looks like the originals have dried up, as he's not selling them anymore.
> 
> I guess a True 10 isn't that bad? I won't connect anything else to it and apart from the odd battlefield 4 game I'm not a serious gamer.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You could always try offering store with story a $330 bid.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> I've asked ta-Korea about my order, been ordered a week tomorrow and not shipped (even though was told Thursday or Friday), to be honest I'm expecting an offer for a True10, as they have stopped selling the original :-(
> 
> To be honest, I'm bored of waiting now and looks like the originals have dried up, as he's not selling them anymore.
> 
> I guess a True 10 isn't that bad? I won't connect anything else to it and apart from the odd battlefield 4 game I'm not a serious gamer.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I ordered from Ta-Korea also and I ordered mine on the 10th for $325 and have some good news on mine. It shipped on Thursday has arrived in the US which means I should have it by midweek. I was not offered a True10 but if my monitor has multi inputs, it is going back since that is not what I ordered. Some people have already reported that with the True10, that it can overclock but skips frames which in short, is useless for gaming if you want a smooth experience at over 60Hz.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> to be honest I'm expecting an offer for a True10, as they have stopped selling the original :-(
> 
> To be honest, I'm bored of waiting now and looks like the originals have dried up, as he's not selling them anymore.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US

Amazon has it listed as an Evolution 2, and it only has 1 input, so it must be the original one. It has reviews from 2013 and the True 10 only appeared in the past few weeks.

I saw another link for the single-input one a few days ago, but it was going for $450+ and it said 5-15 days just for shipping. Actually, that is the Newegg listing that says this.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Monex has a lower (175hz) LED PWM Dimming Frequency (Read about the Side Effects) than the PB278Q (240hz). I could not see the PB278Q flickering but could see obvious flickering on the Monex.


Are you going to do a review on the Qnix true 10?


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> No.


thank you very much. you mentioned in your guide for NVIDIA users that they can install the monitor driver if they want to use NVIDIA CP instead of CRU. would installing the driver do anything for AMD users (is it beneficial in any way)?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> thank you very much. you mentioned in your guide for NVIDIA users that they can install the monitor driver if they want to use NVIDIA CP instead of CRU. would installing the driver do anything for AMD users (is it beneficial in any way)?


No its not as you can not create custom resolution using CCC!...so it will make no difference at all to use the Qnix monitor driver other than your monitor will be called QX2710 other than Generic pnp monitor!....i hope this help


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> I've asked ta-Korea about my order, been ordered a week tomorrow and not shipped (even though was told Thursday or Friday), to be honest I'm expecting an offer for a True10, as they have stopped selling the original :-(
> 
> To be honest, I'm bored of waiting now and looks like the originals have dried up, as he's not selling them anymore.
> 
> I guess a True 10 isn't that bad? I won't connect anything else to it and apart from the odd battlefield 4 game I'm not a serious gamer.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered from Ta-Korea also and I ordered mine on the 10th for $325 and have some good news on mine. It shipped on Thursday has arrived in the US which means I should have it by midweek. I was not offered a True10 but if my monitor has multi inputs, it is going back since that is not what I ordered. Some people have already reported that with the True10, that it can overclock but skips frames which in short, is useless for gaming if you want a smooth experience at over 60Hz.
Click to expand...

Well I hope that works for me to; which means it could be shipped this week *must be patient*.

Keep me posted when it arrives and if as expected....thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RustInPieces

My order from dreamseller for the dp2710 still has not shipped. How much benefit is there to overclocking the monitor to 96 hz?
I might just get a refund and get a true10 instead. I am used to 60 hz gaming.
Edit: I just checked, it has shipped now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> So no luck sending it back? Cost to much?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


actually to do with the seller, hasn't responded yet to me.
Going to give it a week, before calling eBay.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> It might be an AMD driver bug. Some people with Windows 8.1 and R9 290/290X cards reported problems with refresh rates not working properly after rebooting, but I haven't heard of that happening with older cards. The workaround in that case is to restart the video driver: http://www.monitortests.com/restart.zip


Thanks for that executable! Now I can add / change custom resolutions on my AMD GPU, then use restart.zip to restart the video driver without having to reboot the whole system. That way I can test overclocks much more easily.

Is it a good idea, you think, of offering an option to call a video driver restart on exit from CRU after custom resolutions have been changed / added? I've noticed that a restart (definitely) causes applications that are accessing the GPU(s) to crash, but for someone who knows what they're doing, testing their overclock with no such applications running in the background, it would be a very cool idea.

Thanks for CRU, as always!


----------



## Optimus1978

How long have you been waiting...I'm starting to figure its a waiting game.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> How long have you been waiting...I'm starting to figure its a waiting game.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


5 days - 19th of March


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RustInPieces*
> 
> My order from dreamseller for the dp2710 still has not shipped. How much benefit is there to overclocking the monitor to 96 hz?
> I might just get a refund and get a true10 instead. I am used to 60 hz gaming.
> Edit: I just checked, it has shipped now.


Sorry, the question was how long your waited for your dream seller order?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No its not as you can not create custom resolution using CCC!...so it will make no difference at all to use the Qnix monitor driver other than your monitor will be called QX2710 other than Generic pnp monitor!....i hope this help


very helpful, yes...thank you









EDIT: when i overclock to 96Hz, the GPU memory clock increases from 150 MHz to 1300 MHz whereas the core clock remains the same at 300 MHz. i guess some increase is necessary to keep up with the high(er) refresh rate, but a 1.15 GHz increase is a way too much, me thinks. is there a way to tame this behavior on AMD GPUs?


----------



## RustInPieces

I ordered on 3/09.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Are you going to do a review on the Qnix true 10?


No, it sucks and I have to buy them to review them.

-600-700:1 Contrast (Swedish Review)
-30ms delay (Swedish Review)
-Can't display 1080p properly (digital force)
-it is not flicker free/uses PWM (confidential source)
-it unsurprisingly can't overclock


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> No, it sucks.
> 
> -600-700:1 Contrast (Swedish Review)
> -30ms delay (Swedish Review)
> -Can't display 1080p properly (digital force)
> -it is not flicker free/uses PWM (confidential source)
> it unsurprisingly can't overclock


Hmm but i wanted you to tell me just how much it sucks other than the above and run your full barrage of tests on it









Can you link me to the Swedish review please


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Are you going to do a review on the Qnix true 10?
> 
> 
> 
> No, it sucks and I have to buy them to review them.
> 
> -600-700:1 Contrast (Swedish Review)
> -30ms delay (Swedish Review)
> -Can't display 1080p properly (digital force)
> -it is not flicker free/uses PWM (confidential source)
> -it unsurprisingly can't overclock
Click to expand...

Swedish review? Any chance of a link?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> No, it sucks and I have to buy them to review them.
> 
> -600-700:1 Contrast (Swedish Review)
> -30ms delay (Swedish Review)
> -Can't display 1080p properly (digital force)
> -it is not flicker free/uses PWM (confidential source)
> -it unsurprisingly can't overclock


how's the contrast ratio that low? Seems impossible. Especially seeing as digital force said the colours are better. And he had the normal QNIX (glossy) and overlord, side by side for comparison?

How does the normal QNIX compare to the true10, via that swedish review?

-600-700:1 Contrast (Swedish Review) -> Doesn't seem plausible. Especially if it uses the same panel as seen in the BenQ
-30ms delay (Swedish Review) -> makes sense for multiple input
-Can't display 1080p properly (digital force) -> for Xbox 360
-it is not flicker free/uses PWM (confidential source) -> "does use moderate amplitude PWM" via TFTcentral
-it unsurprisingly can't overclock -> indeed


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> No, it sucks and I have to buy them to review them.
> 
> -30ms delay (Swedish Review)


YIKES

I really want the single input one because of that.


----------



## technoir

Have tracked down a German video review of the True10.

Looks like he does a frame-skipping test (which looks positive for skipping).

Any German speaking people here care to translate? Enjoy









http://www.pcgameshardware.de/LCD-Hardware-154105/Videos/Qnix-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-1114196/


----------



## McLaren_F1

If there's an update for the CRU program, can i just delete the old one and replace it?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Swedish review? Any chance of a link?


I was wrong, the review is German.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> how's the contrast ratio that low? Seems impossible. Especially seeing as digital force said the colours are better. And he had the normal QNIX (glossy) and overlord, side by side for comparison?


The BL2710PT has a 600-800:1 contrast ratio (based on 3 reviews) in the Standard mode which has locked color controls. Colors ≠ black level and if the brightness was kept cranked (default) comparisons won't matter without measurements or knowing about the lightning conditions. TFT Central's True 10 has a 600:1 contrast ratio from min to max brightness in the default mode, will have to wait for the full review to see if the contrast can be improved and for better color preset evaluations, but I doubt it is possible to improve the contrast since most of the multi-input Korean monitors don't have multiple color presets, they have RGB controls and a few color temperature settings.

True 10 @400-450$+60$ for a 3 year SquareTrade Warranty is not worth it, might has well save up for the 600$ BenQ BL2710PT which can be returned and exchanged easily in some countries. The glossy options and overclock-ability are the features which make the Korean monitors special.


----------



## hak8or

So, I am going to pretty much right now spring for a monitor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321300835630?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf05ad2e

This monitor is capable of overclocking, right? Since I am seeing the QX2710 here getting nice overclocks, but I can't find if they are the "Slim" and "Evolution 2 LED PLS" version, so I want a confirmation before I splurge.


----------



## travanx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> You should be able to use a powered (mini) displayport to DL DVI adaptor. I've tested them on a 7970 with no problems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> You should be able to use a powered (mini) displayport to DL DVI adaptor. I've tested them on a 7970 with no problems.


Any specific adapter specs I should be looking for?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> So, I am going to pretty much right now spring for a monitor.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321300835630?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf05ad2e
> 
> This monitor is capable of overclocking, right? Since I am seeing the QX2710 here getting nice overclocks, but I can't find if they are the "Slim" and "Evolution 2 LED PLS" version, so I want a confirmation before I splurge.


I have that one from that seller, running at 96hz.


----------



## hak8or

How
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have that one from that seller, running at 96hz.


How are you liking it? Any dead pixels? Was the color calibration good when you got it? Was the packaging worthy of being shipped across the other end of the planet? How long did it take to get to you (USA East or West coast?).


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> So, I am going to pretty much right now spring for a monitor.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321300835630?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf05ad2e
> 
> This monitor is capable of overclocking, right? Since I am seeing the QX2710 here getting nice overclocks, but I can't find if they are the "Slim" and "Evolution 2 LED PLS" version, so I want a confirmation before I splurge.


I have that one from that seller, running at 96hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> How
> How are you liking it? Any dead pixels? Was the color calibration good when you got it? Was the packaging worthy of being shipped across the other end of the planet? How long did it take to get to you (USA East or West coast?).


Best monitor I have owned, knock on wood. Ordered on a Friday, got here on the following Tuesday. Box was in decent shape, only had foam wrapped around it. Bought the Monoprice stand for it also, wanted it to sit higher and be more sturdy. I did calibrate mine using my Colormunki Display.


----------



## hak8or

Thanks so much for the info! Ordering the monitor now, I will report back in this thread once I get it.

May your monitor continue working for years more!


----------



## Optimus1978

Well got this reply; not sure what it actually means :-

Hi
Sorry for any inconvenience.
The post office had little problem during the weekend, it came back to us.
We are double checking and testing for this.
We will let you know tomorrow if it can be shipped again.
Hope you understand this.
Thank you so much for your patience.

- ta-korea.global

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## crackerssss

So I pulled the trigger on a QNIX QX2710 from http://www.2560x1440monitor.com. I paid $370 AU, they absolutely cheapest on ebay is around 360 and shipping times are DREADFUL. I'm not in any way affiliated with this site, but I would vouch for them any day of the week.

I ordered Thursday Midnight and received it about an hour ago (I'm in Aus FYI)

So far, I am loving it! Zero dead pixels, very very minimal BLB - better than all of my other monitors! (I've had Acers, Asus', Samsungs, Dells!)
I am currently running at 96hz, if I go to 120 it freaks the hell out!

Just fyi, I couldn't get the tool in the OP working, but it definitely works through the nvidia control panel. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask!

Oh also, just for comparison, I'm coming from a Samsung S27A950D, and the colours are amazing! 96hz definitely feels slower than 120 (I play CS and this will take getting used to..)


----------



## chaoscontrol

01:08 23-Mar-2014 Departure from Airport INCHEON Flight number : KL856

04:50 23-Mar-2014 Airrival at Destination Airport AMSTERDAM

06:50 23-Mar-2014 Delivered to Destination Airport AMSTERDAM

06:22 24-Mar-2014 Delivered to Destination Airport AMSTERDAM

07:16 24-Mar-2014 Delivered to Destination Airport AMSTERDAM

08:11 24-Mar-2014 Delivered to Destination Airport AMSTERDAM

Either I'm getting a lot of monitors, or someone is throwing it back and forth.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

GUYS! Excellent news for me:
"Good news. We've informed the seller that the item wasn't as described, and the seller has issued you with a full refund. This case is now closed.

Refund information:
A full refund of US $340.00 was issued on Mar 24, 2014. The refund includes the purchase price plus original P&P and was issued to the same payment method you used to pay for the item.

Please log in to PayPal and view the history page if you don't see it in your PayPal balance.

You can view the details of this case in the Resolution Centre. "

*Received a full refund of $340 for the True10 monitor, by the seller "Red-Cap" took a week to sort out, and an eBay case with proof - but it paid off in the end.*


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> GUYS! Excellent news for me:
> "Good news. We've informed the seller that the item wasn't as described, and the seller has issued you with a full refund. This case is now closed.
> 
> Refund information:
> A full refund of US $340.00 was issued on Mar 24, 2014. The refund includes the purchase price plus original P&P and was issued to the same payment method you used to pay for the item.
> 
> Please log in to PayPal and view the history page if you don't see it in your PayPal balance.
> 
> You can view the details of this case in the Resolution Centre. "
> 
> *Received a full refund of $340 for the True10 monitor, by the seller "Red-Cap" took a week to sort out, and an eBay case with proof - but it paid off in the end.*


Good to see it sorted.


----------



## crackerssss

Hey guys, how hard is it to remove the clear plastic stand?
I want to vesa mount this thing on the weekend!


----------



## 3m3k

hi,
looking to get one of the qnix screens,
would there be any recommended ebay sellers worth looking into?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crackerssss*
> 
> Hey guys, how hard is it to remove the clear plastic stand?
> I want to vesa mount this thing on the weekend!


Just one tip. Get a vesa bracket that you can tilt the screen a bit. I vesa mounted this with a bracket that can't tilt and end up just removing it and use the normal stand.


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> GUYS! Excellent news for me:
> "Good news. We've informed the seller that the item wasn't as described, and the seller has issued you with a full refund. This case is now closed.
> 
> Refund information:
> A full refund of US $340.00 was issued on Mar 24, 2014. The refund includes the purchase price plus original P&P and was issued to the same payment method you used to pay for the item.
> 
> Please log in to PayPal and view the history page if you don't see it in your PayPal balance.
> 
> You can view the details of this case in the Resolution Centre. "
> 
> *Received a full refund of $340 for the True10 monitor, by the seller "Red-Cap" took a week to sort out, and an eBay case with proof - but it paid off in the end.*


That's some very good news. Happy for you


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> hi,
> looking to get one of the qnix screens,
> would there be any recommended ebay sellers worth looking into?


Accessories whole, excellent castle and story are the three hot ones right now

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronalddus*
> 
> That's some very good news. Happy for you


I'm still very very intrigued about the true 10 and I'm really looking forward to a full review by tft central.


----------



## ategro

Has anyone had any experiences with www.2560x1440monitor.com ?
They seem to be a good bit cheaper than the Ebay sellers are.


----------



## GamerGER

i ordered this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/271375013937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 from excellentcastle but i only payed 359,99$ +20$ for shipping. So maybe u can try to make an offer for 350 and see what happens.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> Has anyone had any experiences with www.2560x1440monitor.com ?
> They seem to be a good bit cheaper than the Ebay sellers are.


$329.98 - not bad, although never heard of them, or anyone post of them here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GamerGER*
> 
> i ordered this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/271375013937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 from excellentcastle but i only payed 359,99$ +20$ for shipping. So maybe u can try to make an offer for 350 and see what happens.


$330 from here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331134376244?item=331134376244&autorefresh=true

excellentcastle kind of pissed me off with their declines and their communication.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crackerssss*
> 
> Hey guys, how hard is it to remove the clear plastic stand?
> I want to vesa mount this thing on the weekend!


Not hard at all. Remove 4 screws on the back, remove the bezel, unlatch the display on the sides and shift it out of the way, then remove the two screws holding the stand, then re-assemble. Takes about 15 minutes. Note: The OP has dis-assembly instructions.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *travanx*
> 
> Any specific adapter specs I should be looking for?


This is the one I use: Accell B087B-007B DisplayPort/Mini DisplayPort to DVI-D Dual-Link Adapter with 3D Support

This is the 7B model, the 2B model doesn't work with my QX2710 monitors, I think it's due to bandwidth, but not sure.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> GUYS! Excellent news for me:
> "Good news. We've informed the seller that the item wasn't as described, and the seller has issued you with a full refund. This case is now closed.
> 
> Refund information:
> A full refund of US $340.00 was issued on Mar 24, 2014. The refund includes the purchase price plus original P&P and was issued to the same payment method you used to pay for the item.
> 
> Please log in to PayPal and view the history page if you don't see it in your PayPal balance.
> 
> You can view the details of this case in the Resolution Centre. "
> 
> *Received a full refund of $340 for the True10 monitor, by the seller "Red-Cap" took a week to sort out, and an eBay case with proof - but it paid off in the end.*


Do you still have to pay for returning it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Do you still have to pay for returning it?


Nop! I don't see why I should to be honest. Thus I'm guessing the seller understood that even if he left it till late - he knew eBay would take my side.
Simple as this: eBay listing does not match the performance of the monitor.

Only problem, as stated by my mum was: "Yeah but you never tested it yourself, others on forums did"
My mum is absolutely correct in what she said, and more so "if I was a manufacturer or reseller, I wouldn't accept a refund, if you hadn't tested it yourself"

Again, she's right - but the problem is, these monitors all come from one place and thus they are all identical. But again, she's right.
So the seller could have made the case of: "you never actually tested it" - but he and I both know that the monitors are all identical (apart from OC range) - but he knows that if one didn't display a 1080P display, then the others wouldn't.
That's why he was quick to remove his true10 listing (you can't see any true10s being sold from him no more). He knows that I would not be the last to complain. And for him to send them, get them back, have cases open (possibly negative feedback too) AND restocking them - wouldn't be worth his time.

So my educated guess is: Red-cap, took it off, and complained to the manufacturer - and might or probably will get a refund by the manufacturer for their false description.
In all honesty, I feel a little sorry for the resellers on eBay - but it should also be their responsibility to test too - and maybe he did, after my complaint.

Thus he took the best and fastest way out - fully refund me - take the $130 shipping charge or whatnot and then possibly claim that to the manufacturer by incurred shipping charges.

It all makes sense to me. It's just the matter of fact if I'm right or wrong about that analogy and theory.
I've already been correct about diminishing supplies of the original QNIX AND the fact that the true10 is supposedly going to replace the normal QNIX - but QNIX might start realising this won't be the case.

Ps. I gave him positive honest feedback for the transaction and he gave me positive feedback too.
His actions were fine and I didn't see ANY need to punish him via negative or neutral feedback.
"Item wasn't as described, but seller (after opening a case) gave full refund"
Was my feedback:
http://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=red-cap&ftab=AllFeedback&rt=nc


----------



## crackerssss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> Has anyone had any experiences with www.2560x1440monitor.com ?
> They seem to be a good bit cheaper than the Ebay sellers are.


Mentioned a few posts up I bought from there, can recommend them!


----------



## Chowchilla

These new?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=151261920007


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> These new?
> http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=151261920007


Looks not very interesting to me.
It has USB slots at the back (which you could get a cheap £10-20 USB 3.0 hub to connect straight to your PC) and it is adjustable (which again you can buy a £10-20 stand that does more than what it can do).

Not seen it before though, thanks for sharing


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Sigh, common DHL/customs what the hell are you doing?
Paid customs on the 22nd.

*Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 09:56
1 Pieces*

19 Arrived at Delivery Facility in LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 06:50
1 Pieces

18 Departed Facility in LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 05:57
1 Pieces

17 Processed at LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 01:32
1 Pieces

16 Arrived at Sort Facility LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 00:14
1 Pieces

Sunday, March 23, 2014 Location Time Pieces
15 Clearance processing complete at LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 23:23

14 Transferred through LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 22:33
1 Pieces

13 Customs status updated LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 20:41


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Sigh, common DHL/customs what the hell are you doing?
> Paid customs on the 22nd.
> 
> *Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 09:56
> 1 Pieces*
> 
> 19 Arrived at Delivery Facility in LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 06:50
> 1 Pieces
> 
> 18 Departed Facility in LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 05:57
> 1 Pieces
> 
> 17 Processed at LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 01:32
> 1 Pieces
> 
> 16 Arrived at Sort Facility LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 00:14
> 1 Pieces
> 
> Sunday, March 23, 2014 Location Time Pieces
> 15 Clearance processing complete at LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 23:23
> 
> 14 Transferred through LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 22:33
> 1 Pieces
> 
> 13 Customs status updated LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 20:41


No doubt it'll spend more time in customs then it did traveling half way round the world.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> No doubt it'll spend more time in customs then it did traveling half way round the world.


pretty much. I have absolutely no idea why though - I've paid, got a receipt even and can't "pay more" even if I wanted to.
It says PAID

I'll never, ever forget my horrible experience of TNT (the logistics company) back when I was in France.
Took an item literally 1 day to come from Taiwan to France, then another day from the airport to Paris. But then what followed was horrible. Took 8 days, yes 8 - to go from Paris to my apartment IN GOD DAMN PARIS.
It came to the point that I said: "Look do you want me to travel to the depot and pick it up because this is god damn ridiculous!!!"
That's when they got their stupid selves together and delivered it the next day.

I honestly couldn't believe it. 1 day to arrive from the other side of the world. 9 days for it to move from within France to the same city I was living in.

I just don't understand it.


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> EDIT: when i overclock to 96Hz, the GPU memory clock increases from 150 MHz to 1300 MHz whereas the core clock remains the same at 300 MHz. i guess some increase is necessary to keep up with the high(er) refresh rate, but a 1.15 GHz increase is a way too much, me thinks. is there a way to tame this behavior on AMD GPUs?


any ideas?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> GUYS! Excellent news for me:
> "Good news. We've informed the seller that the item wasn't as described, and the seller has issued you with a full refund. This case is now closed.
> 
> Refund information:
> A full refund of US $340.00 was issued on Mar 24, 2014. The refund includes the purchase price plus original P&P and was issued to the same payment method you used to pay for the item.
> 
> Please log in to PayPal and view the history page if you don't see it in your PayPal balance.
> 
> You can view the details of this case in the Resolution Centre. "
> 
> *Received a full refund of $340 for the True10 monitor, by the seller "Red-Cap" took a week to sort out, and an eBay case with proof - but it paid off in the end.*


Buy another and try it again, just so we can be sure.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Buy another and try it again, just so we can be sure.


lmao


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> These new?
> http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=151261920007


Plasma Deposition Coating, boooooooooooo. SWIBLE, roflmao. OMG a zebra screen cleaner, im in.


----------



## travanx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crackerssss*
> 
> Hey guys, how hard is it to remove the clear plastic stand?
> I want to vesa mount this thing on the weekend!


Easy like others said. 15-20 minutes being very careful. Gently pry the stand back and forth to get the start on popping the bezel off. After doing this to 3 it seems like too much force isn't the answer. So try to pop from a different angle. I ended up unscrewing one of the side metal rails instead of popping that out of the case. I think its much easier to do than how it looks in the videos.


----------



## kefan77

is it just me or have all the ebay sellers hiked up their prices on X-STAR DP2710?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kefan77*
> 
> is it just me or have all the ebay sellers hiked up their prices on X-STAR DP2710?


yup, they all went up to around £300 afew days ago. Dream-Seller said it was because the manufacturer had increased the price.


----------



## DBEAU

Glad I bought mine when I did. $270, no dead pixels and very minor BLB. Stable at 110hz too


----------



## MikeHawk

Dusty R Slack is selling a used X-Star, Amazon Prime shipped for $210. I don't have the gonads to pull the trigger
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00CB8RQ2Y

I emailed him anyway asking about stuck/dead pixels and any BLB along with why he's selling.

-edit
Well someone got a smoking deal. I was about to buy it after his response:
Quote:


> Mike,
> 
> I run boot camp on my MacBook Pro and Windows 7 would BSOD with the monitor plugged in via display port and HDMI. No problems under OSX, could never get the driver issue resolved in Windows 7, a deal breaker for me.
> 
> I never noticed any dead or stuck pixels while playing Bioshock and Max Payne 3.
> 
> Backlight bleed was there and noticeable in dark scenes. Nothing out of the ordinary for a Korean monitor, I believe most who obtained uniform backlighting on these displays had to take them apart and adjust.


But it was gone (sadpanda)


----------



## passinos

Got my first one at $279 from dream seller then price went to $329.
waited 2 months then bought my 2nd one for $279.

I see price is back up so you probably got a couple months to wait for $279 again.

PS. Both mine OC to 120mhz with little/no BLB.

Problem is I have 7970's CF which only support 1xDL-DVI. My SL-DVI is flickering a little but usable.


----------



## LordBelakor

I just got my Qnix today, and tried to overclock it but no matter what I do I seem to get Browser stutter. I assume that it doesnt have anything to do with OC of the monitor as it happens even with the standart 60hz setting. I tried setting 120hz but my screen started spazzing so there I would guess that indeed the OC of the monitor isnt working anymore, but with 96 hz I am not getting that problem.
Trying to enable the option of reducing DVI-Frequency makes it impossible for the site testufo.com to sync, so I cant test it. Anyone know why?

Also what kind of numbers do you use on OC. 96.000hz or something like 95.950 hz?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordBelakor*
> 
> I just got my Qnix today, and tried to overclock it but no matter what I do I seem to get Browser stutter. I assume that it doesnt have anything to do with OC of the monitor as it happens even with the standart 60hz setting. I tried setting 120hz but my screen started spazzing so there I would guess that indeed the OC of the monitor isnt working anymore, but with 96 hz I am not getting that problem.
> Trying to enable the option of reducing DVI-Frequency makes it impossible for the site testufo.com to sync, so I cant test it. Anyone know why?
> 
> Also what kind of numbers do you use on OC. 96.000hz or something like 95.950 hz?


As far as browser stutter goes, I think that's more of a browser issue rather then driver/monitor issue.

As far as 96hz setting, I use 96hz in Nvidia control panel for all three of mine, and it works fine.


----------



## LordBelakor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Going to need more info to help you out on this one. Which QNIX did you get? What video/drivers are you using? Have you tested the computer on another monitor, and the monitor on another computer?
> 
> As far as 96hz setting, I use 96hz in Nvidia control panel for all three of mine, and it works fine.


I am using the QNIX QX2710 Led Evolution II. I am using the Catalyst 14.3 Videodrivers for the R9 290. I have "tested" the computer with another monitor, as in it worked and displayed something. I have not tested the monitor on another PC.

I can really only imagine the browser stutter to not be monitor related, it wouldnt make any sense otherwise. I am not getting any artifacts or the like at all after all.


----------



## Watagump

Its obvious why there are these price increases, ITS THIS DANG FORUMS FAULT.


----------



## Roland2

Sorry about that, I edited my comment, but apparently not before you started a reply


----------



## LordBelakor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Sorry about that, I edited my comment, but apparently not before you started a reply


Im a quick one ^^. So I can just OC it to my hearts content then, until I get artifacts right?


----------



## MikeHawk

-delete.


----------



## TJD269

Hey guys been searching the web and couldn't find anything. Anyone else see a slight burn in for their monitor? I've noticed it only lately and it changes often so I'm thinking that it's just a temporary burn in. Anyone that can touch on the subject or help me get rid of it? Thanks.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordBelakor*
> 
> Im a quick one ^^. So I can just OC it to my hearts content then, until I get artifacts right?


Yup, Though I keep mine at 96Hz, others have stayed at 110Hz, others at 120Hz, so whatever you want.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I have that one from that seller, running at 96hz.
> Best monitor I have owned, knock on wood. Ordered on a Friday, got here on the following Tuesday. Box was in decent shape, only had foam wrapped around it. Bought the Monoprice stand for it also, wanted it to sit higher and be more sturdy. I did calibrate mine using my Colormunki Display.


Hope you're using ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI with that Colormunki? Tap into its potential


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Hope you're using ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI with that Colormunki? Tap into its potential


Just the stock software, but now I am intrigued, more info please.


----------



## sannysa

Hello everybody!

I tried to overclock my monitor Qnix QX2710 with my Nvidia 780. I followed the guide and used CRU to set the refresh rate to 96HZ. I then restarted my computer and choosed it in NVIDIA CONTROL PANEL. When i started BF4 i could choose 2560x1440 with 96HZ. I also verified it with turning on v-sync and used fps counter to see how many fps i got. And it was up to 96 fps. So everything seemed fine. But i also tested the frameskpping test (http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping) and it showed 60fps and 60hz. So something must be wrong and i don´t understand what. Any idea?


----------



## aaaflyer

hey guys. i have got a review from my friend who bought true10.

He said it is overclockable!

quote:

Well after trying it out with a long exposure camera I'm sad to say at 120hz there were frame skipping. There were gaps in the boxes when i took the photo... Good news is at 96hz the boxes line up without any gaps. I'm not using a super fast GPU only 670 SLI so for me its okay i guess. Since Bf4 at 96 fps seems to worked well without any tearing or other issues.

quote off.

He used a camera to test the framedrop. so I myself am waiting for more reviews


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sannysa*
> 
> Hello everybody!
> 
> I tried to overclock my monitor Qnix QX2710 with my Nvidia 780. I followed the guide and used CRU to set the refresh rate to 96HZ. I then restarted my computer and choosed it in NVIDIA CONTROL PANEL. When i started BF4 i could choose 2560x1440 with 96HZ. I also verified it with turning on v-sync and used fps counter to see how many fps i got. And it was up to 96 fps. So everything seemed fine. But i also tested the frameskpping test (http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping) and it showed 60fps and 60hz. So something must be wrong and i don´t understand what. Any idea?


I would personally *not* use CRU with Nvidia as EDID overrides can conflict with Nvidia Geforce experience which means sometimes or indeed many times windows will not see your custom resolutions!.....Your choices Using Nvidia are as follows.....Use CRU and import the blank-extension.dat into CRU when making custom resolutions which should allow you to use CRU and keep Nvidia Geforce experience installed without conflicts....However for me importing the blank-extension.dat into CRU.... windows still refused on many occasion to see my custom resolutions!...The other method which i recommend you use and will work 100% with Nvidia users without any conflicts is to use the monitor driver method!...Follow the steps below to switch from CRU to using the Qinx monitor Driver method!

1: now open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...

2: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 3:

3: download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

4: If you don't use SLI patch your drivers with the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe....if you are using SLI patch your drivers using nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe

5: Go to Nvidia control panel and add your custom resolutions

6: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience and you will have no conflict...have fun!

qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## hotcoffeeburns

So I don't post much, but I did a pretty thorough read of the thread before of this prior to picking up a Qnix. Unfortunately I ordered the True10 as I wanted multi-input, and even at 75hz OC (using CRU at least) I get some framedrops. I'm going to try the Nvidia method mentioned above since I'm running a 680. I did, however, order a single input 2710, and plan to keep both for a dual monitor setup. The issue I'm having right now is how to position them properly on my corner desk. I have a fairly deep corner edge, and actually use the corner as my monitor/keyboard space, so I'm looking for a mounting solution that would work. I've seen some dual panel free standing mounts that hold two 27" monitors, but I'm not entirely sold on it being balanced well. Do I get two single free standing mounts? Does anyone have experience with a dual monitor mount for these? I admittedly wasn't paying close attention to posts about mounts when I originally went through the near entirety of this thread, as I was more interested in knowing about the monitors themselves. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## sannysa

Thank you for the answer!

I tried the above, but the problem still remains. When i do this test (http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping) in firefox, explorer or chrome it says 60 fps and 60 hz and is green (valid). It seems very strange because the screen resolution in windows and geforce control panel is set to 2560 x 1440 and 96HZ. Anyone have an idea how to fix it? Thanks!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> hey guys. i have got a review from my friend who bought true10.
> 
> He said it is overclockable!
> 
> quote:
> 
> Well after trying it out with a long exposure camera I'm sad to say at 120hz there were frame skipping. There were gaps in the boxes when i took the photo... Good news is at 96hz the boxes line up without any gaps. I'm not using a super fast GPU only 670 SLI so for me its okay i guess. Since Bf4 at 96 fps seems to worked well without any tearing or other issues.
> 
> quote off.
> 
> He used a camera to test the framedrop. so I myself am waiting for more reviews


At 120Hz no two boxes could possibly be lined up since for every two frames, one frame is skipped. However, at lower than 120Hz, you will be getting two or more boxes in sequence from time to time. At 96Hz, 1 frame is skipped every 2.33 frames so there will be at most 2 boxes in sequence. If there are 3, then there is no skipping from 96Hz to 60Hz. It might be skipping to >60Hz, or it might not be skipping at all.

That's why when you take a photo, you try and get as many boxes in sequence as possible. You are always unable to predict whether the box next to the last lit box will be skipped or not, but let's say you get 19 boxes lit in sequence at 120Hz? Suppose the 20th box is skipped, that monitor is basically skipping from 120Hz to 114Hz. Unlikely to ever happen with a native 60Hz monitor, so we conclude it's not skipping frames.

If you leave your eyes out of focus for a bit, you can easily see any skipped boxes whenever they occur.

I hope your friend took a photo that shows more than 2 boxes being lit in sequence.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Just the stock software, but now I am intrigued, more info please.


Much more control, most likely better profiles. Awesome software. Also, try HCFR.


----------



## aohus

I bought a 2710 couple months ago and they gave me quite a defective unit, where I get streaks of backlight bleeding on dark screens.

I was none too thrilled, but they gave me $100 off the panel. They essentially bought me off. damn lol. I'm okay with it though. It's only on black screen that I see this. I guess I'll stay away from really dark games like Thief rofl.


----------



## sannysa

Now it works as intended. I had to choose one of Windows 7 Aero themes...








I can overclock the monitor to 110hz and im ok with that. Is it common that people can overclock to 120hz

Thanks again lawson for your help!


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sannysa*
> 
> Now it works as intended. I had to choose one of Windows 7 Aero themes...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can overclock the monitor to 110hz and im ok with that. Is it common that people can overclock to 120hz
> 
> Thanks again lawson for your help!


I got to 96Hz easily. I have not tried 120Hz except once. Got a ton of orange lines all over the screen. Lawson told me to try a profile he linked but I lost it so I can't. But I think the general consensus is that most do.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aohus*
> 
> I bought a 2710 couple months ago and they gave me quite a defective unit, where I get streaks of backlight bleeding on dark screens.
> 
> I was none too thrilled, but they gave me $100 off the panel. They essentially bought me off. damn lol. I'm okay with it though. It's only on black screen that I see this. I guess I'll stay away from really dark games like Thief rofl.
> 
> picture removed


See, it's posts like this that scare me away from these Korean displays.


----------



## bluedevil

Any BLB? I am starting to doubt myself.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> EDIT: when i overclock to 96Hz, the GPU memory clock increases from 150 MHz to 1300 MHz whereas the core clock remains the same at 300 MHz. i guess some increase is necessary to keep up with the high(er) refresh rate, but a 1.15 GHz increase is a way too much, me thinks. is there a way to tame this behavior on AMD GPUs?


AMD cards require the "LCD standard" vertical blanking/total to reduce the memory clock when idle. Most of these monitors will have trouble with "LCD standard" at 120 Hz, but that shouldn't be a problem at 96 Hz where the pixel clock is lower. Horizontal values can still be reduced if necessary. I will add a note about this on the CRU and patcher download pages. This affects NVIDIA cards as well, but NVIDIA cards can handle some lower values.


----------



## darxider

^ much appreciated ToastyX. thank you.

while we're at it, i'd like to ask two more questions from you:
1) i have three monitors listed in the top-left selection bar, but i have only one physical monitor connected to my PC. they are all the same, but only one them is labeled "(active)". is it safe to delete the others?
2) i believe i should leave "Include extension block" unchecked, right?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> 1) i have three monitors listed in the top-left selection bar, but i have only one physical monitor connected to my PC. they are all the same, but only one them is labeled "(active)". is it safe to delete the others?


Yes, you can safely delete them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> 2) i believe i should leave "Include extension block" unchecked, right?


With AMD, it doesn't really matter, but these monitors don't actually have an extension block, so it should be disabled.


----------



## Chowchilla

Mine is on its way. With any luck It'll be here by Friday


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Mine is on its way. With any luck It'll be here by Friday


What did you get?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> What did you get?


Ultimate perfect pixel QNIX from storewithstory


----------



## winterkid09

^I just picked one up from him too after going back and forth with t.a. korea who wanted to upsell me for a True 10 for the last week.. lol, they tried to show me an article that a german team did on the True 10 where they overclock it to 120hz, but in that very same review they point out that it skips every other frame..
Glad I got it back, but everything seems to be slightly more expensive now though...


----------



## montana2012

Hi everyone, cool forum and great thread. Can i ask how much did you guys pay for the QNIX at storewithstory? Also another question do you guys think one of these korean monitors would work with my onboard intel core i7-4770k HD4600 gpu? Its just for basic work while i wait for my Nvidia card to turn up. Or wouldnt it even get a signal? many thanks


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *montana2012*
> 
> Hi everyone, cool forum and great thread. Can i ask how much did you guys pay for the QNIX at storewithstory? Also another question do you guys think one of these korean monitors would work with my onboard intel core i7-4770k HD4600 gpu? Its just for basic work while i wait for my Nvidia card to turn up. Or wouldnt it even get a signal? many thanks


I ordered from dream-seller. 279$.

No your Intel integrated graphics will not work...


----------



## montana2012

OK thanks anthonyg45157. Bugger i was hoping for one to work with my integrated gpu, :-/ Looks like i have to buy new nvidia card. Would these Korean montiors work with the new nvidia maxwell cards that are meant to be out soon?

man 279$, is so cheap, how do they get these things so cheaply?


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Ultimate perfect pixel QNIX from storewithstory


True 10?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *montana2012*
> 
> OK thanks anthonyg45157. Bugger i was hoping for one to work with my integrated gpu, :-/ Looks like i have to buy new nvidia card. Would these Korean montiors work with the new nvidia maxwell cards that are meant to be out soon?
> 
> man 279$, is so cheap, how do they get these things so cheaply?


Why would they not work? They're not special monitors. All they need is a dual-link DVI connection.


----------



## montana2012

That's what i thought yasamoka, but i'm a noob when it comes to monitors and gpu's. i think i have a dual-link DVI connector somewhere though. I hope your right yasamoka i really need a new monitor asap.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Any BLB? I am starting to doubt myself.


Anyone care to look at this?


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Anyone care to look at this?


Really hard to tell with those pictures, please take some in a very dark environment.
Seems like it tho.


----------



## LordBelakor

One last question about OC guys. Is there any meaning to choosing 99.950. hz instead of say 100.000 hz? Does it make a difference? Also why do so many people use 96hz does it have any point at all? I thought if at all meaningful that the steps would be 60,90,120 but 96 seems pretty random.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> Really hard to tell with those pictures, please take some in a very dark environment.
> Seems like it tho.


Is there a color profile I can use? I think most of that is IPS glow.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> True 10?


Nah. Regular ol'e QNIX. Dont have time for 30ms response time and frameskipping.


----------



## hogofwar

Just realised i still don't have a refund from ta.korea.global.

It's been 8 days since I bought it, should I open a case?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Just realised i still don't have a refund from ta.korea.global.
> 
> It's been 8 days since I bought it, should I open a case?


have they not issued a refund yet?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordBelakor*
> 
> One last question about OC guys. Is there any meaning to choosing 99.950. hz instead of say 100.000 hz? Does it make a difference? Also why do so many people use 96hz does it have any point at all? I thought if at all meaningful that the steps would be 60,90,120 but 96 seems pretty random.


96hz is divisible by 24, which is the native fps of most videos. With todays GPU's, I don't know how much it realy matters, but that's the logic.


----------



## kevinsbane

The logic is good for movies in general... alas, it fails for youtube videos


----------



## Overfiend

OK, so I think I messed up a bit...

I ordered the True 10 model, thinking it would be better, but now I'm reading that it frame skips when OC'd...

Does anyone know about returning these monitors? How much it would cost to ship it to Korea etc??

I'm wondering if I can take it out of the box, try it out, then if it doesn't OC well, I can always pack it back up and ship it out!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> OK, so I think I messed up a bit...
> 
> I ordered the True 10 model, thinking it would be better, but now I'm reading that it frame skips when OC'd...
> 
> Does anyone know about returning these monitors? How much it would cost to ship it to Korea etc??
> 
> I'm wondering if I can take it out of the box, try it out, then if it doesn't OC well, I can always pack it back up and ship it out!


You are just going to waste your time trying to OC it. Its already been proven. Since they are advertising these as 120hz monitors, they are presenting false information. That is enough to get your money back, you are just going to have to fight for it. If you can, don't accept the package, just have it sent back and go from there.


----------



## hogofwar

-snip-


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> OK, so I think I messed up a bit...
> 
> I ordered the True 10 model, thinking it would be better, but now I'm reading that it frame skips when OC'd...
> 
> Does anyone know about returning these monitors? How much it would cost to ship it to Korea etc??
> 
> I'm wondering if I can take it out of the box, try it out, then if it doesn't OC well, I can always pack it back up and ship it out!


Overclocking's overrated IMO. Not worth the hassle to return if I were in that situation. Shipping costs aren't cheap ($100+) and if it's a good panel, then you really have no recourse on getting the seller to pay for return shipping.

Overclocking's nice... but I just find multi-input panels just more _useful_.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> have they not issued a refund yet?


Yes.


----------



## Overfiend

Man, that sucks. But yeah, they are advertising them as being able to hit 120hz, so if they can't do that then I want my money back...


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You are just going to waste your time trying to OC it. Its already been proven. Since they are advertising these as 120hz monitors, they are presenting false information. That is enough to get your money back, you are just going to have to fight for it. If you can, don't accept the package, just have it sent back and go from there.


^ this is the correct answer, just tell UPS/FEDEX whoever you are refusing the package and they will send it back to korea without you paying anything and you can get a refund.

If you accept it you are screwed.

I believe any of these will require signature confirmation so you should be good in that regard, as in they won't leave it if you aren't home.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Yes.


is that a yes they have or yes they have not?







if they have you should see the money as "on hold" in paypal as the money has to leave your account to be refunded which takes about 7-10 days. Also, the money goes into your Paypal balance not straight into your bank.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> ^ this is the correct answer, just tell UPS/FEDEX whoever you are refusing the package and they will send it back to korea without you paying anything and you can get a refund.
> 
> If you accept it you are screwed.
> 
> I believe any of these will require signature confirmation so you should be good in that regard, as in they won't leave it if you aren't home.


Mine said it needed a sig, or I could leave a signed note at the door with the tracking number. I picked mine up at DHL, since it was on the way home from work.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Mine said it needed a sig, or I could leave a signed note at the door with the tracking number. I picked mine up at DHL, since it was on the way home from work.


I see. My qnix evo 2 from greensum came UPS and required signature.


----------



## Overfiend

I would be happy with 96hz out of it...


----------



## Watagump

storewithstory has bumped the price back up to $339.90. They still have a best offer option, so use that if you are going to buy, stick to a lower price, lets say $320. Its been sold at $319.90 recently, heck maybe even try lower than that, just don't come up after you get a counter offer, see what happens.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> have they not issued a refund yet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> is that a yes they have or yes they have not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if they have you should see the money as "on hold" in paypal as the money has to leave your account to be refunded which takes about 7-10 days. Also, the money goes into your Paypal balance not straight into your bank.


Nothing in paypal or ebay to get refunded, they haven't messaged me back when I asked it to be refunded for the second time on friday.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I see. My qnix evo 2 from greensum came UPS and required signature.


Different carriers, different rules I guess, never had a DHL delivery before.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Nothing in paypal or ebay to get refunded, they haven't messaged me back when I asked it to be refunded for the second time on friday.


That is odd. could be worth escalting


----------



## Overfiend

Did you get your True10? I just ordered one thinking it was too good to be true(10)


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> I would be happy with 96hz out of it...


Dont count on it, if you would've read the forums you would know they WONT oc, at all.


----------



## Overfiend

OK mum, thanks for the advice. I didn't actually see this thread until after I ordered though...


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> OK, so I think I messed up a bit...
> 
> I ordered the True 10 model, thinking it would be better, but now I'm reading that it frame skips when OC'd...
> 
> Does anyone know about returning these monitors? How much it would cost to ship it to Korea etc??
> 
> I'm wondering if I can take it out of the box, try it out, then if it doesn't OC well, I can always pack it back up and ship it out!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Overclocking's overrated IMO. Not worth the hassle to return if I were in that situation. Shipping costs aren't cheap ($100+) and if it's a good panel, then you really have no recourse on getting the seller to pay for return shipping.
> 
> Overclocking's nice... but I just find multi-input panels just more _useful_.


One of the major points of getting these monitors is to OC them. And OCing is not overrated. Switching from 60Hz to 96Hz or 120Hz is glorious! It seems that some people cannot detect the difference between 60Hz and higher Hz. 60Hz looks like a slideshow to me now compared to 96Hz+.

Get one that OCs and be happy. 95% of them will get to 96Hz+ (rough estimate, you can look in the OP for statistics).


----------



## Overfiend

Hey man - did you go ahead with the True10? I just ordered one. The way I see it, is that if it frame skips at 75hz (which is what it is advertised to run at), then it is not being sold as advertised, and the seller should pay for returns...


----------



## lasttimei

What would you guys say about this one? ik it's op but i don't want to be seeing dead pixels on my screen or extreme bleed .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d19259934

it's funny how perfect pixel is not perfect any more it can be 0-1 pixel/stuck pixel.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> What would you guys say about this one? ik it's op but i don't want to be seeing dead pixels on my screen or extreme bleed .
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d19259934
> 
> it's funny how perfect pixel is not perfect any more it can be 0-1 pixel/stuck pixel.


It never was a guarantee of no pixel defects. Hence why I think it's stupid.


----------



## hotcoffeeburns

Actually, I did get my True10 to OC at 120hz using the driver/Nvidia method rather than the CRU method. Played games until 4 AM and didn't notice any framedrops, so either Nvidia control panel is lying to me, thus creating a placebo effect in which I actually perceive things being smoother, or it actually worked. I didn't run it through the frameskip test yet; I'll try that when I get home and double check things, too.

So I didn't get any hits on the stand question, and I did check out the monoprice stands. The issue with those is that the arm isn't going to extend out far enough to actually work with my desk. Has anyone tried a free standing mount, or something like this?

http://smile.amazon.com/Mount-It-Freestanding-Monitor-Monitors-screens/dp/B00ED34G8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395766056&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+monitor+stand+27


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> One of the major points of getting these monitors is to OC them. And OCing is not overrated. Switching from 60Hz to 96Hz or 120Hz is glorious! It seems that some people cannot detect the difference between 60Hz and higher Hz. 60Hz looks like a slideshow to me now compared to 96Hz+.


I'd contend that the best point about these monitors are that they're _cheap_. The overclocking is a bonus. Having probably owned one of the best overclocking monitors (Catleap 2B), for one of the longest periods of time (just about 2 years), I have to say that overclocking isn't the reason why I enjoy the monitor so much. Keeping the overclock alive through driver updates, rehacking and all, dealing with breaking HDCP... I have to say that it's not all peaches and cream. And I don't have to deal with the finicky pixel clock settings to optimize against image retention, gamma shifts, tinting and darkening images. Hence why I say overrated. Not that overclocking is worthless (far from it, it's amazing that you can overclock it) just that I think people value it more than it's actually worth.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Hey man - did you go ahead with the True10? I just ordered one. The way I see it, is that if it frame skips at 75hz (which is what it is advertised to run at), then it is not being sold as advertised, and the seller should pay for returns...


75hz might work at a lower resolution; there are a lot of monitors (including my Dell U2312hm/U2311h) have monitor modes that support higher refresh rates, but at a lower resolution. If someone still has a True10, it might be worth testing that.


----------



## Overfiend

That kind of defeats the object of buying a 2560x1440 monitor. If I wanted a 1080 monitor that ran at 75hz, then that's what I would have bought









I messed up buying the True10, plain and simple - and it's gonna cost me about £100 to return it...

unless someone here wants to buy a True10 for about £220?? It's pixel perfect!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> That kind of defeats the object of buying a 2560x1440 monitor. If I wanted a 1080 monitor that ran at 75hz, then that's what I would have bought


Yeah. It does, but it also means that a seller would not be falsely advertising if he stated the True10 was capable 75hz refresh either :-/


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> What would you guys say about this one? ik it's op but i don't want to be seeing dead pixels on my screen or extreme bleed .
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d19259934
> 
> it's funny how perfect pixel is not perfect any more it can be 0-1 pixel/stuck pixel.


Thats the one i bought, mines on the way now.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> OK mum, thanks for the advice. I didn't actually see this thread until after I ordered though...


I meant more like, in hindsight, because it was mentioned a couple of times.

Also I didn't mean to say you should read the entire topic but I more like referred to it as the proof you needed.

Anyway, you should be able to decline the monitor and get a refund, you might also want to consider selling it yourself. There is always someone who wants its straight away and isn't willing to wait on a shipment from Korea. At a sell/buy community site where I am from they usually don't last around a day.


----------



## Overfiend

Yeah good point! Kind of sneaky, though if they were doing that!

Damnit, if only they had been a bit slower in dispatching... they dispatched about 1 hour after I paid!

Probably keen to get rid of them


----------



## Overfiend

Yeah, sorry if I seemed a bit arsey, I just hate hindsight!!

If I decline then it will be returned to sender, and i will be charged for it, but it could take up to 45 days for the parcel to actually be sent back from my country. Would just be easier to pay to return it.

Could you recommend any sites for selling???


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> If there's an update for the CRU program, can i just delete the old one and replace it?


CRU is basically an editor and doesn't need to be present for custom resolutions to work, so you can replace it without affecting the existing configuration.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Well it's here. My Qnix has arrived from TA-global today which I ordered on the 10th for $325 (PP) after some delays because of quality/supply issues. (other sellers were having the same issues around this time) I have been very happy about the prompt communication/updates with Ta-Global whenever I asked.

It shipped last Friday by EMS which USPS took over, arrived in US the next day, sat in customs over the weekend and it arrived to me here in the upper Midwest. I have not opened it up yet since I have lots of things to get done. On the side of the box, I noticed a sticker indicating that it is a single input model(fingers still crossed) and noticed a small hole on the bottom of the box which does not look too bad. Well I will report back later tonight


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> What would you guys say about this one? ik it's op but i don't want to be seeing dead pixels on my screen or extreme bleed .
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d19259934
> 
> it's funny how perfect pixel is not perfect any more it can be 0-1 pixel/stuck pixel.


It actually depends on the seller. Some sellers have a pixel perfect policy that allows dead pixels. There are others that have a true pixel perfect pixel policy, where they guarantee 0 dead or stuck pixels.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotcoffeeburns*
> 
> Actually, I did get my True10 to OC at 120hz using the driver/Nvidia method rather than the CRU method. Played games until 4 AM and didn't notice any framedrops, so either Nvidia control panel is lying to me, thus creating a placebo effect in which I actually perceive things being smoother, or it actually worked. I didn't run it through the frameskip test yet; I'll try that when I get home and double check things, too.
> 
> So I didn't get any hits on the stand question, and I did check out the monoprice stands. The issue with those is that the arm isn't going to extend out far enough to actually work with my desk. Has anyone tried a free standing mount, or something like this?
> 
> http://smile.amazon.com/Mount-It-Freestanding-Monitor-Monitors-screens/dp/B00ED34G8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395766056&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+monitor+stand+27


You need to run it through the frameskipping test. There are lots of monitors that seemingly overclock to 120Hz that people got excited about, and then they find out the monitors are skipping frames.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I'd contend that the best point about these monitors are that they're _cheap_. The overclocking is a bonus. Having probably owned one of the best overclocking monitors (Catleap 2B), for one of the longest periods of time (just about 2 years), I have to say that overclocking isn't the reason why I enjoy the monitor so much. Keeping the overclock alive through driver updates, rehacking and all, dealing with breaking HDCP... I have to say that it's not all peaches and cream. And I don't have to deal with the finicky pixel clock settings to optimize against image retention, gamma shifts, tinting and darkening images. Hence why I say overrated. Not that overclocking is worthless (far from it, it's amazing that you can overclock it) just that I think people value it more than it's actually worth.
> 75hz might work at a lower resolution; there are a lot of monitors (including my Dell U2312hm/U2311h) have monitor modes that support higher refresh rates, but at a lower resolution. If someone still has a True10, it might be worth testing that.


I agree that it can be a pain, but it's gotten so much better. Nowadays I just load the Qnix driver when I install Windows, and every time I update drivers, I just run the full patcher (because I have SLI) and then redo my custom refresh rates in the Nvidia control panel. Once you know what you're doing it's very easy now.


----------



## MenacingTuba

At least 8 different multi-input monitors have been oc'd and proven to frame skip by multiple people, including the True 10. Testing multi-input monitors for frame skipping is a waste of time, as is trying to overclock them.

96hz provides judder free/much smoother media playback when used with MPC-HC+MAD VR and Power DVD+Re-Clock.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Did you get your True10? I just ordered one thinking it was too good to be true(10)


I ordered one, refused it at delivery, took 8 days or so to convince the seller for a full refund, as they wanted postage money back (over $130).
If it hadn't left Korea you're in Luck, if not you'll have to convince (via an eBay case) to fully refund you the money. Now it's up to you if you want to open it and receive it, but a few are guaranteed so far: it doesn't oc, and has input lag of 30ms and doesn't display 1080p Xbox display. However it is better on colours, has multiple inputs and is a faux 10bit.

Ps. I'm in the UK


----------



## Overfiend

Nice. How did you convince the seller to give you a full refund?

I mean, I kind of understand that I'd need to pay for shipping costs.

I'm in UK too


----------



## Watagump

They really need to stop selling the True 10 monitors as 120hz, its false advertising.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Nice. How did you convince the seller to give you a full refund?
> 
> I mean, I kind of understand that I'd need to pay for shipping costs.
> 
> I'm in UK too


Search this thread for my posts and see what happened. There's no reason why you should pay shipping (see below)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> They really need to stop selling the True 10 monitors as 120hz, its false advertising.


yeah that's why red cap speed selling them I presume


----------



## Overfiend

I hear ya.

To be honest I'm going to push for a full refund anyway, including shipping costs. It says that its default refresh rate is 75hz. If I start this up, and I get frame skipping even at 75, then as far as I'm concerned it is not what I ordered.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> I hear ya.
> 
> To be honest I'm going to push for a full refund anyway, including shipping costs. It says that its default refresh rate is 75hz. If I start this up, and I get frame skipping even at 75, then as far as I'm concerned it is not what I ordered.


Best of luck!


----------



## Overfiend

Thanks!

Even if he refuses to refund me, I think ebay will get me my money back.

As it states in the picture I attached, 75hz is the default for these monitors. Now if it says 75hz, but skips any frames over 60, then it is a defective product, or different to the product that I ordered.


----------



## djdynamite123

Is it still advisable to get a Qnix then? How much is taxes to England?


----------



## dragosjurca

Now I can say I'm a proud owner of a Qnix 2710 matte bought from ebay from storewithstory.
It was a very hard decision (three months I've read on forums) between VG278HR and this, but finally I preferred better colors and resolution at under half of the price of a 3D 144Hz FHD TN panel .
Paid 365.25 USD for a PP version with free shipping, arrived 5 days later in Romania and after another 2 days in custom finally it's on my desk.
On the box which by the way was packed in a protective foam, there is a sticker with Zero Dead Pixel and I checked and indeed it does not have any dead or stuck pixels. BLB is minor, in the lower left corner more pronounced but at the moment I can live with it. Later I'll do mod tape for BLB fix and maybe a DIY aluminium VESA desk stand with monitor debezeled and painted matte black (metal frame only







).
Without any other tools than Nvidia control panel (video card is a Gigabyte 780 Ti Windforce OC) I managed 96Hz and up to 105Hz without issues. More than this it get artifacts so I decided to go with 96Hz at the moment.
I was using a Hama DVI-D so nothing special. I'll try later with included cable to see if it improves but 96Hz for me I think it's fine. Also HDCP is present.
I have few questions:

1. can somebody recommend me a very good 96Hz ICC profile for it? I tried few but white have a yellow tint and 120Hz it's too cold.
2. I started Thief game and it sees right resolution and refresh at 96Hz. This means it's working at 96Hz for real or how can I test it to be sure? As I said before I have a 780 Ti with an 2600K @ 4Ghz and 8GB RAM


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Thought to let you guys know - the original QNIX I ordered via Fedex, that got returned and fully refunded.
I JUST got a customs letter by Fedex for £22. I'm not paying it obviously, I'll have to call Fedex and let them know that I don't have the product and have returned it.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragosjurca*
> 
> Now I can say I'm a proud owner of a Qnix 2710 matte bought from ebay from storewithstory.
> It was a very hard decision (three months I've read on forums) between VG278HR and this, but finally I preferred better colors and resolution at under half of the price of a 3D 144Hz FHD TN panel .
> Paid 365.25 USD for a PP version with free shipping, arrived 5 days later in Romania and after another 2 days in custom finally it's on my desk.
> On the box which by the way was packed in a protective foam, there is a sticker with Zero Dead Pixel and I checked and indeed it does not have any dead or stuck pixels. BLB is minor, in the lower left corner more pronounced but at the moment I can live with it. Later I'll do mod tape for BLB fix and maybe a DIY aluminium VESA desk stand with monitor debezeled and painted matte black (metal frame only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> Without any other tools than Nvidia control panel (video card is a Gigabyte 780 Ti Windforce OC) I managed 96Hz and up to 105Hz without issues. More than this it get artifacts so I decided to go with 96Hz at the moment.
> I was using a Hama DVI-D so nothing special. I'll try later with included cable to see if it improves but 96Hz for me I think it's fine. Also HDCP is present.
> I have few questions:
> 
> 1. can somebody recommend me a very good 96Hz ICC profile for it? I tried few but white have a yellow tint and 120Hz it's too cold.
> 2. I started Thief game and it sees right resolution and refresh at 96Hz. This means it's working at 96Hz for real or how can I test it to be sure? As I said before I have a 780 Ti with an 2600K @ 4Ghz and 8GB RAM
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Qnix has a new logo! (Since I purchased mine at least.)

Also, what mouse pad is that?

Edit:
Just going to take a wild guess that it's a Roccat Siru


----------



## Stereophonics

So it's been 3 weeks since I ordered my monitor from dream-seller and FedEx apparently came by in the 90 seconds I was in the bathroom and ninja left the "sorry we missed you" tag. I'm going to dehydrate myself tomorrow in fear of missing them again while using the bathroom...


----------



## lasttimei

so the True10 =no good so what are those qnix that also have true10 on the're name.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-Matte-27-2560x1440-10bit-Monitor-/131131920531?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e88125093


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> so the True10 =no good so what are those qnix that also have true10 on the're name.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DPmulti-TRUE10-Matte-27-2560x1440-10bit-Monitor-/131131920531?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e88125093


That is the True 10 display that we've been talking about.


----------



## Beanman1000

So, I just got a QNIX 2710 matte and I followed the OC guide and everything says that the resolution is at 96hz....except the http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping test. This is still reading 60hz. I am not sure what I could have done wrong.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragosjurca*
> 
> 1. can somebody recommend me a very good 96Hz ICC profile for it? I tried few but white have a yellow tint and 120Hz it's too cold.


96Hz: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qalq3jgtxf9dq7c/Qnix_2.2_6500_11clicks_96Hz.icm
110Hz: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jvgk3kmo6xkacmn/Qnix%206500K%20g2.2%20110Hz%20%282014-03-12%29.icm

Mien.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stereophonics*
> 
> So it's been 3 weeks since I ordered my monitor from dream-seller and FedEx apparently came by in the 90 seconds I was in the bathroom and ninja left the "sorry we missed you" tag. I'm going to dehydrate myself tomorrow in fear of missing them again while using the bathroom...


hahaha unlucky!
Today DHL came and left a "we missed you" card - delivery tomorrowwwwwwwww!
YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHH baby!


----------



## lasttimei

ok good don't want to fall for that







thank's


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> hahaha unlucky!
> Today DHL came and left a "we missed you" card - delivery tomorrowwwwwwwww!
> YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHH baby!


Did you ever get that other 680 taken care of?


----------



## technoir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Thought to let you guys know - the original QNIX I ordered via Fedex, that got returned and fully refunded.
> I JUST got a customs letter by Fedex for £22. I'm not paying it obviously, I'll have to call Fedex and let them know that I don't have the product and have returned it.


Yeah, no chance you should pay that. Although, if part of that includes FedEx's handling fee (and they attempted to deliver) then they might insist on that.

Do you know what the value what put down as by the seller?


----------



## lasttimei

One more question guys , does the gtx 780 classified work with the qnix monitor i guess it does.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> One more question guys , does the gtx 780 classified work with the qnix monitor i guess it does.


Of course it does.


----------



## Forceman

Okay, so how do I get my Qnix to keep the 96Hz setting? I set it to 96 in CCC, everything is fine, then 20 seconds later it flips back to 60Hz. I'm assuming it's the fail-safe undoing the changes in case it didn't work, but I don't get the option to accept the new settings anywhere.

Edit: Okay, I just deleted the 60Hz profile and it seems to work. Kind of the brute force approach though.


----------



## djdynamite123

So what is this like for gaming, like playing BF4, racing games like DiRT/GRID and racing sims like Assetto Corsa? Would I not notice any blur compared with using my current BenQ Pro Gaming 24" 1ms 1080p monitor?

Has there been much failure rate on these? are they safe (no fire hazard)?


----------



## dragosjurca

Yes, it's Siru








So now I have almost full setup in place...Roccat Isku FX, Roccat Kone XTD, Roccat Siru, Roccat Apuri and my Korean monitor. Next month I'll go for a Kave XTD and I'll be perfectly equipped







.


----------



## dragosjurca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 96Hz: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qalq3jgtxf9dq7c/Qnix_2.2_6500_11clicks_96Hz.icm
> 110Hz: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jvgk3kmo6xkacmn/Qnix%206500K%20g2.2%20110Hz%20%282014-03-12%29.icm
> 
> Mien.


Thank you, I'll give them a try.


----------



## Forceman

Anyone using DispCalGUI with an i1 Display LT? For some reason it won't detect my device, even though Windows (8.1) sees it. Tried installing and then uninstalling the iProfiler software, but it made no difference.


----------



## Rhaxas

What kind of screws will I need to mount this onto a replacement stand?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhaxas*
> 
> What kind of screws will I need to mount this onto a replacement stand?


Whatever stand you choose to buy should come with the necessary mounting hardware.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Did you ever get that other 680 taken care of?


Nop, still looking to buy one!
First one I bought never turned up (PayPal case opened) by Friday I'll get the full refund
Second one I bought arrived not working, so I sent it back and had to pay postage back. Seller agreed to a full refund, for some reason it says PayPal is reviewing the case, so I'm awaiting my money that's on hold
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *technoir*
> 
> Yeah, no chance you should pay that. Although, if part of that includes FedEx's handling fee (and they attempted to deliver) then they might insist on that.
> 
> Do you know what the value what put down as by the seller?


yeah, but again, I don't have the item. So if handling is going to be charged, that's going to be with the seller, not the buyer


----------



## Overfiend

So, got a response from the ebay seller....

He is trying to charge me for the shipping cost AND the return costs as well, even though the listing stated that shipping was 'free', or included in the price.

He's trying to sting me for $200!!!


----------



## Forceman

Anyone else experiencing patches of flickering on their monitors? There's a patch on mine about 4" square where it looks like the backlight is flickering sometimes. Happens at 96Hz and 60Hz with two different cables. Did I just get unlucky with two monitors?

On the plus side, 96Hz gaming is a revelation. I never bought into the refresh rate thing, but it really is noticeable.


----------



## AaronAsh

Just thought I check in here and say I ordered a matte Qnix on the advice in this thread; a pixel perfect one from Excellentcastle. Bought it to replace a Crossover 27Q that died about 3 months after receiving it (bought that from Accesorieswholesale, who generously refunded me the full cost and covered the shipping, after some gentle prompting).

The Qnix arrived last night and I am very pleased; no hint of pixel defects, and the backlight is almost completely uniform aside from a small bleed patch in the top right corner.

I also wanted to overclock, but when I tried initially I was somewhat dismayed to find anything over 80Hz was producing steadily worse blue noise in the black areas of the screen. However my computer is connected via a 10m DVI-D cable (it lives in the loft), which I thought might have been the problem - and lo and behold when I connected it by a high quality shorter cable the noise vanished, and it reliably overclocked to 115Hz without issue (at 120Hz there was some artifacting in the form of banding and horizontal flickers).

So yes, extremely pleased! Thanks all for this thread and all the advice posted within!

I do have a couple more questions:

When using the Custom Resolution Tool, is there any downside to using the "reduced" option for the automatic timings setting? I can't see any visual difference between that and the normal settings, but I can get to the higher overclock without artefacts using "reduced". What is the difference?

Secondly I have a nice new Monoprice monitor stand arriving today (which is currently going cheap on Amazon), but how do I get the built-in part of the stand off the monitor?


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AaronAsh*
> 
> Secondly I have a nice new Monoprice monitor stand arriving today (which is currently going cheap on Amazon), but how do I get the built-in part of the stand off the monitor?


Tried to order this, will only allow me to pay with CC? Can't I use PayPal or any other normal online payment method?









(Unfamiliar with Amazon)


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AaronAsh*
> 
> Just thought I check in here and say I ordered a matte Qnix on the advice in this thread; a pixel perfect one from Excellentcastle. Bought it to replace a Crossover 27Q that died about 3 months after receiving it (bought that from Accesorieswholesale, who generously refunded me the full cost and covered the shipping, after some gentle prompting).
> 
> The Qnix arrived last night and I am very pleased; no hint of pixel defects, and the backlight is almost completely uniform aside from a small bleed patch in the top right corner.
> 
> I also wanted to overclock, but when I tried initially I was somewhat dismayed to find anything over 80Hz was producing steadily worse blue noise in the black areas of the screen. However my computer is connected via a 10m DVI-D cable (it lives in the loft), which I thought might have been the problem - and lo and behold when I connected it by a high quality shorter cable the noise vanished, and it reliably overclocked to 115Hz without issue (at 120Hz there was some artifacting in the form of banding and horizontal flickers).
> 
> So yes, extremely pleased! Thanks all for this thread and all the advice posted within!
> 
> I do have a couple more questions:
> 
> When using the Custom Resolution Tool, is there any downside to using the "reduced" option for the automatic timings setting? I can't see any visual difference between that and the normal settings, but I can get to the higher overclock without artefacts using "reduced". What is the difference?
> 
> Secondly I have a nice new Monoprice monitor stand arriving today (which is currently going cheap on Amazon), but how do I get the built-in part of the stand off the monitor?


This time did you get the square trade warranty?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Anyone using DispCalGUI with an i1 Display LT? For some reason it won't detect my device, even though Windows (8.1) sees it. Tried installing and then uninstalling the iProfiler software, but it made no difference.


I think you need to load the unofficial driver for the i1 Display LT available in the dispcalGUI folder. If the driver tries to install but fails because it's unsigned, then rather than bothering with disabling driver signature enforcement on Windows, download HCFR and use its drivers. They are the same drivers AFAIK but they are signed and install without issue.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Anyone else experiencing patches of flickering on their monitors? There's a patch on mine about 4" square where it looks like the backlight is flickering sometimes. Happens at 96Hz and 60Hz with two different cables. Did I just get unlucky with two monitors?
> 
> On the plus side, 96Hz gaming is a revelation. I never bought into the refresh rate thing, but it really is noticeable.


Yeah, I didn't believe it either. I might have to keep this awesome monitor!


----------



## bmancreations

I have a Multi Input version and I have an annoying issue.

If this monitor goes to sleep (because of windows) or anything similar to this, it will move all my windows (not just the ones that were on this monitor, all monitors) into the middle monitor.

My setup is

Multi Input QNIX 60hz - Normal XSTAR 96hz - Normal XSTAR 96hz

Also, the QNIX when woke up, will also have a buzzing noise (like coil whine) for about a minute or two, then goes away.

I have also been having issues with my monitors going to sleep when I have Windows set to NEVER. It's weird, my system in terms of the monitors has a mind of it's own. Sometimes, the screensavers will not turn on. Then sometimes they will, but the monitors after I don't know how long will sleep (when not set). Sometimes, the computer won't even wake up when that happens, and I have to hit the external power button. All with Sleeping & Turning OFF set to NEVER. I have of course, checked all settings and tweaks and went through help to find the cause. I am now thinking maybe it's the monitor itself?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I have a Multi Input version and I have an annoying issue.
> 
> If this monitor goes to sleep (because of windows) or anything similar to this, it will move all my windows (not just the ones that were on this monitor, all monitors) into the middle monitor.
> 
> My setup is
> 
> Multi Input QNIX 60hz - Normal XSTAR 96hz - Normal XSTAR 96hz
> 
> Also, the QNIX when woke up, will also have a buzzing noise (like coil whine) for about a minute or two, then goes away.
> 
> I have also been having issues with my monitors going to sleep when I have Windows set to NEVER. It's weird, my system in terms of the monitors has a mind of it's own. Sometimes, the screensavers will not turn on. Then sometimes they will, but the monitors after I don't know how long will sleep (when not set). Sometimes, the computer won't even wake up when that happens, and I have to hit the external power button. All with Sleeping & Turning OFF set to NEVER. I have of course, checked all settings and tweaks and went through help to find the cause. I am now thinking maybe it's the monitor itself?


What video card? Does it do this when the xstars are not oc'd? This sounds like a software/driver or GPU issue not a monitor issue.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I have a Multi Input version and I have an annoying issue.
> 
> If this monitor goes to sleep (because of windows) or anything similar to this, it will move all my windows (not just the ones that were on this monitor, all monitors) into the middle monitor.
> 
> My setup is
> 
> Multi Input QNIX 60hz - Normal XSTAR 96hz - Normal XSTAR 96hz
> 
> Also, the QNIX when woke up, will also have a buzzing noise (like coil whine) for about a minute or two, then goes away.
> 
> I have also been having issues with my monitors going to sleep when I have Windows set to NEVER. It's weird, my system in terms of the monitors has a mind of it's own. Sometimes, the screensavers will not turn on. Then sometimes they will, but the monitors after I don't know how long will sleep (when not set). Sometimes, the computer won't even wake up when that happens, and I have to hit the external power button. All with Sleeping & Turning OFF set to NEVER. I have of course, checked all settings and tweaks and went through help to find the cause. I am now thinking maybe it's the monitor itself?


The third monitor is connected by DisplayPort right?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AaronAsh*
> 
> Just thought I check in here and say I ordered a matte Qnix on the advice in this thread; a pixel perfect one from Excellentcastle. Bought it to replace a Crossover 27Q that died about 3 months after receiving it (bought that from Accesorieswholesale, who generously refunded me the full cost and covered the shipping, after some gentle prompting).
> 
> The Qnix arrived last night and I am very pleased; no hint of pixel defects, and the backlight is almost completely uniform aside from a small bleed patch in the top right corner.
> 
> I also wanted to overclock, but when I tried initially I was somewhat dismayed to find anything over 80Hz was producing steadily worse blue noise in the black areas of the screen. However my computer is connected via a 10m DVI-D cable (it lives in the loft), which I thought might have been the problem - and lo and behold when I connected it by a high quality shorter cable the noise vanished, and it reliably overclocked to 115Hz without issue (at 120Hz there was some artifacting in the form of banding and horizontal flickers).
> 
> So yes, extremely pleased! Thanks all for this thread and all the advice posted within!
> 
> I do have a couple more questions:
> 
> When using the Custom Resolution Tool, is there any downside to using the "reduced" option for the automatic timings setting? I can't see any visual difference between that and the normal settings, but I can get to the higher overclock without artefacts using "reduced". What is the difference?
> 
> Secondly I have a nice new Monoprice monitor stand arriving today (which is currently going cheap on Amazon), but how do I get the built-in part of the stand off the monitor?


You have to remove the bezel on the monitor and then slightly remove the panel to unscrew the stock stand mount. You will also need to add washers for the MP stand Vesa plate, the screws they supply are too long.



Removing the bezel.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=qnix%20qx2710%20stand%20removal&sm=3


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The third monitor is connected by DisplayPort right?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The third monitor is connected by DisplayPort right?


Yes it's DisplayPort

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> What video card? Does it do this when the xstars are not oc'd? This sounds like a software/driver or GPU issue not a monitor issue.


It's a 780 TI. I have gone through 3 different drivers with this issue. It's hard to test (because it's random), but I will try to have them not OC'd and see if these occur. ANd if it was Drivers, why it is the DP monitor causing it. Because if I turn it off, it will move windows, but if I turn of the others, nothing happens.

Also the noise it makes, is only if its been off or sleeping for awhile.

Actual thats not exactly true. If I turn of the DisplayPort one, once I turn it back on, the other two montors flicker to black and then back to the desktop, everything has moved.

But, no one else has this issue?

***NOW ***!!!! I changed them all, but now when I re-select 96hz, it does not keep it, the settings still show 60hz. I didnt change anything, I want my 96hz back...WHAT?


----------



## bluedevil

So just to be clear, there is no brightness controls on the QX2710? The onboard ones seem to do nothing.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Yes it's DisplayPort
> It's a 780 TI. I have gone through 3 different drivers with this issue. It's hard to test (because it's random), but I will try to have them not OC'd and see if these occur. ANd if it was Drivers, why it is the DP monitor causing it. Because if I turn it off, it will move windows, but if I turn of the others, nothing happens.
> 
> Also the noise it makes, is only if its been off or sleeping for awhile.
> 
> Actual thats not exactly true. If I turn of the DisplayPort one, once I turn it back on, the other two montors flicker to black and then back to the desktop, everything has moved.
> 
> But, no one else has this issue?


Never turn off a DisplayPort monitor. According to the specification of DisplayPort, a DisplayPort monitor that is turned off will actually send a disconnect signal to the system - that is to say, a powered off DisplayPort monitor is _disconnected_ and treated as not plugged in at all. When you do so, Windows thinks that you only have 2 monitors, so it'll rearrange your icons so you can access them, since they are not on a connected screen anymore. You should experience the same behaviour on your DVI monitors if you manually unplug their DVI cords. So don't turn off DisplayPort monitors. Yes, it's stupid. No, there's nothing you can do about it.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So just to be clear, there is no brightness controls on the QX2710? The onboard ones seem to do nothing.


They do have brightness control - the increments are just small and they have no UI response. So hold it down for a while, or click a couple dozen times, and you should notice a difference.


----------



## deraco96

Guess what? I just created an account especially to answer you!
It seems to me that the issue is DisplayPort 'knows' when your monitor is off. So if you shut down your monitor, the programs it contained will be moved because the computer does no longer send an image to the monitor and does not have it in it's desktop config (it makes a new one). So not an issue, I think it is by design of the DisplayPort spec.
The flicker is probably because Windows is building a new desktop consisting now of one monitor more now. When I switch from one monitor to Surround it flickers too.
Sorry, it's hard to explain but I hope you understand me (English is not my prime language)

Aww you guys are too fast...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Speaking of my GTX680 - just ordered another one. Third time lucky I hope!
KFA2 GTX680 OC EX for £145 incl postage and paypal fees:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151259724509?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

My monitor should have come by now! COMMOOOOOON!
Will take pics + video when it arrives + full OC results.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Hello, I'm about to order a QNIX 2710 Evolution II, and I was thinking of getting the MATTE Perfect Pixel version for 20$ more. Is getting the perfect pixel version necessary? I really don't want a bunch of dead pixels.

Here is the one I was thinking of ordering.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-DP-PC-Monitor-/121228887236?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c39ce04c4

Also, I noticed some say EVOLUTION II SE and some don't say SE. Is there a difference?

Thanks!


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Hello, I'm about to order a QNIX 2710 Evolution II, and I was thinking of getting the MATTE Perfect Pixel version for 20$ more. Is getting the perfect pixel version necessary? I really don't want a bunch of dead pixels.
> 
> Here is the one I was thinking of ordering.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-DP-PC-Monitor-/121228887236?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c39ce04c4
> 
> Also, I noticed some say EVOLUTION II SE and some don't say SE. Is there a difference?
> 
> Thanks!


SE version is up to 5 dead pixels and non-SE is up to 2-3 dead pixels


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Hello, I'm about to order a QNIX 2710 Evolution II, and I was thinking of getting the MATTE Perfect Pixel version for 20$ more. Is getting the perfect pixel version necessary? I really don't want a bunch of dead pixels.
> 
> Here is the one I was thinking of ordering.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-QHD-DP-PC-Monitor-/121228887236?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c39ce04c4
> 
> Also, I noticed some say EVOLUTION II SE and some don't say SE. Is there a difference?
> 
> Thanks!


So far as we can tell, PP will not increase your chances of getting a monitor without pixel defects; that is to say, you're just as likely to get a panel with a pixel defect if you order PP or non-PP. Perfect pixel is more or less a promise to "take care of you" if you do receive a monitor with a pixel defect that's covered by the PP policy (which varies! read the PP policy carefully!). "Take care of you" can include a simple refund of the PP price difference (total scam), payment per defective pixel (not-quite-total-scam), free return shipping with a replacement (best possible outcome; can require bargaining with seller), or refund and return. Given that 90% of the monitors come without pixel defects anyways, your decision should come down to this.

Do you want to get a perfect monitor the first time, and not have to deal with hassles if you do have a defective pixel? Then you shouldn't be buying these Korean monitors, as a hassle-free experience is not the norm when dealing with "perfect pixel" defects. Spend more, buy Dell, or HP, or Apple. You're pinching pennies in the wrong spot for what you really want. Return policies are clear, customer service is real-time, shipping is pre-paid, and cross-shipping options are available.

Are you willing to gamble that you'll get a good one, and are willing to put in the time and effort to fix it if something goes wrong in that 10% chance? Then PP is an option.

Willing to settle on a 90% chance to get a good monitor? Get non-PP. <- My personal choice.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronalddus*
> 
> SE version is up to 5 dead pixels and non-SE is up to 2-3 dead pixels


is there any difference in the actual hardware though? Why is it called SE? Doesn't that stand for SECOND EDITION?


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> is there any difference in the actual hardware though? Why is it called SE? Doesn't that stand for SECOND EDITION?


"Are there any diffrences between the QNIX QX2710 Evolution II 27" and the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE 27" ?
The difference is pixel policy.
SE model has 0~5 dead/stuck pixel.
Non-SE model has 0~3 dead/stuck pixel."

This is answered, when asking amazon on this one. Check the "6 answered questions" link
http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-Monitor/dp/B00HWV8ZTS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393575790&sr=1-2&keywords=qnix+qx2710


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> is there any difference in the actual hardware though? Why is it called SE? Doesn't that stand for SECOND EDITION?


Nope, no difference that we can tell in the hardware.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Nope, no difference that we can tell in the hardware.


thanks everyone!

So should I buy the NON-SE one? I can get the perfect pixel one for 320$'s. Should I get the perfect pixel for 20 more? or is it pointless?

EDIT:
Also, this one doesn't say if it's MATTE or GLOSSY... any ideas? I'm going to get the MATTE one.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

My Monitor is here!
110hz OC'able.

115, causes odd lines every now and then. 120 is impossible.
96 hz is perfect though.

NO DEAD pixels. Checked via:
http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php
Absolutely no BLB - despite my camera picking it up. It doesn't seem like it in person.

Couldn't be happier right now!

Pics, videos etc to shortly follow!

Bought from here:
Came well packed, with an adapter + audio cables + DVI cable (which I'm using as my one at home didn't seem to show an output):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

PS.
Followed the OC guide by toasty - patched (fully) the Nvidia drivers - before getting started in OC'ing








http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide


----------



## Optimus1978

Well got an email this morning from Ta-Korea - to confirm my address.

So maybe, just maybe - it will get posted tonight.....


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> My Monitor is here!
> 110hz OC'able.
> 
> 115, causes odd lines every now and then. 120 is impossible.
> 96 hz is perfect though.
> 
> NO DEAD pixels. Checked via:
> http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php
> Absolutely no BLB - despite my camera picking it up. It doesn't seem like it in person.
> 
> Couldn't be happier right now!
> 
> Pics, videos etc to shortly follow!
> 
> Bought from here:
> Came well packed, with an adapter + audio cables + DVI cable (which I'm using as my one at home didn't seem to show an output):
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123
> 
> PS.
> Followed the OC guide by toasty - patched (fully) the Nvidia drivers - before getting started in OC'ing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide


Good stuff. Hope mine is the same quality. Its currently. Somewhere.. Ha.d. left incheon 12 hours ago.


----------



## tallbrahh

Hey guys,

Just thought I'd give you the info about my purchase.

I bought a:

QNIX QX2710 Evo II
Matte
For US$360 express shipping
Item listed as: "Ultimate Perfect Pixel 27" QNIX QX2710 Evo ll Matte QHD 2560x1440 PLS Monitor"
from ebay user: excellentcastle
Stable overclock: 100hz. I leave it at 96hz though.
Zero dead/stuck pixels.
No back-light bleed.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271375013937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Thanks to Lawson67 in this thread for great info and recommending this specific item.

I'm yet to apply colour calibration profiles, will try them now.

I tried overclocking higher with a different cable but didn't get any higher.

On the box was this sticker:









This desk mounted stand I got is phenomenal:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281204264113?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649










Can't tell you how happy I am with this monitor, it's just perfect. Huge thankyou to this club, overclock, the community, toastyX and all the posts in here. Super helpful, super understandable.

I feel like my setup is now complete


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Sorry to post again, I just really want to order this monitor today.

I am trying to figure out if I should order a non-se version, or just get the perfect pixel one 320$'s or is it pointless?

Also, this one doesn't say if it's MATTE or GLOSSY... any ideas?


----------



## MikeHawk

Just submitted a $280 offer to storewithstory for a QNIX non-se Matte. His BiN is currently $319.98
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/221356410499

Fingers crossed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Just submitted a $280 offer to storewithstory for a QNIX non-se Matte. His BiN is currently $319.98
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/221356410499
> 
> Fingers crossed.


No guarantee for dead pixels though.
I would offer $330 -> $350 total for the ultimate pixel one.


----------



## lasttimei

got the same one from the same seller hope i can get 100hz+
ultimate pixel one*


----------



## FX-GMC

I just recently picked up a Qnix 2710 Evolution II from MNW Global on Amazon. Stable overclock at 120Hz. Paid $335 for it shipped. So far I haven't seen any dead pixels (I did check). The only thing is a small dot towards the center of the screen. I know it isn't a dead pixel because it moves depending on how you look at it.

I am curious if anyone here has run into any issues with running their monitor overclocked (mainly dead monitors). This seems to be the biggest group of Qnix owners so surely if there was a downside to running the monitor overclocked you would know!

Thanks!


----------



## istudy92

I do not post much on this forum thread but have used it for OC and deciding on purchasing it.

I wanted to just give a small overview

I have owned this monitor for 6 months
It has never had problems
colors are great
I have a stable OC 96, and maybe 110 with little problems and impossible 120 (lines all over)
Price was 280 perfect pixal

This monitor has amazing retail space, this screen is clean, clear.

This Screen is HORRIBLE to watch amazon HD videos...upscale is SO HORRIBLE!! I wish upscaling would be better on video streaming... this is the con of a 1440p...
I hate to zoom into alot of pages because of such small fonts. But hey who cares....

GAMES ARE AMAZING. I love that I do not need high AA and medium AA is suffice, WHICH IS GOOD, why? because my 3gb 780 gets maxed out in certain games but not beyond it if I were to use max AA. So its a good trade off symbiotic relationship.

I love this screen so much for the price and value it brings. I wish Qnix had 4k monitor for 700...at 60 htz...overclockable...lmao I WISH!!!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Yeah, thanks.
> 
> I am either going to buy the perfect pixel edition (cept I can't figure out if it's Matte or Glossy, and I have decided I want the Matte since it's only a semi-matte anyways). Unless they take my offer for 320 on the ultimate perfect pixel edition.
> 
> I really hate dead pixels, but I can't spend above 320$ =/


The glossy usually specify glossy, though some also specify matte. 99.9% chance you are getting a matte. Also avoid tempered glass.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The glossy usually specify glossy, though some also specify matte. 99.9% chance you are getting a matte. Also avoid tempered glass.


That's the thing, they don't say which one it is, and I don't wanna get stuck with a tempered glass one.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Guys, need some help







!

I just got my QNIX in - currently running a single GTX680 (SLI inbound within hopefully a day).

What res scale + settings should I go for?

Ultra goes down to 30FPS (hehe) with a single 680.

Medium seems to be fine - just wondering what I can fine-tune?
ALSO! Why does it only display 60hz, whilst my monitor is OC'ed to 110hz?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> That's the thing, they don't say which one it is, and I don't wanna get stuck with a tempered glass one.


The one you linked charges for shipping, just go get one from storewithstory, ever since I bought from them, plenty have also, with nothing but good things to say. I know its Matte.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/321300835630?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4acf05ad2e


----------



## Stereophonics

*Finally* got my monitor from dream-seller at one day under 3 weeks since my purchase. He was in contact the whole time, ended up refunding me $20 for the wait (bringing it down to $259).

It looks like the wait paid off because I can't find any dead pixels, back-light bleed is either very minimal, non-existent, or I just can't spot it, and it does 120hz right out of the box with no issues, although I may crank it back down to 100 just because. The stand sucks, but I think I can rig something up to make it wobble less.

I couldn't be happier with this purchase.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> I just got my QNIX in - currently running a single GTX680 (SLI inbound within hopefully a day).
> 
> What res scale + settings should I go for?
> 
> Ultra goes down to 30FPS (hehe) with a single 680.
> 
> Medium seems to be fine - just wondering what I can fine-tune?
> ALSO! Why does it only display 60hz, whilst my monitor is OC'ed to 110hz?


Change bottom right settings to look like mine.


----------



## hogofwar

Yet another day, still no refund, or any message at all.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Yet another day, still no refund, or any message at all.


Who did you buy from?


----------



## tallbrahh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Guys, need some help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> I just got my QNIX in - currently running a single GTX680 (SLI inbound within hopefully a day).
> 
> What res scale + settings should I go for?
> 
> Ultra goes down to 30FPS (hehe) with a single 680.
> 
> Medium seems to be fine - just wondering what I can fine-tune?
> ALSO! Why does it only display 60hz, whilst my monitor is OC'ed to 110hz?


That's weird, mine showed up in the settings as 1440*2560 96hz without me having to do anything special. I guess check that both the CRU and your AMD/Nvidia control centre (or whatever) also is set at 96hz?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Who did you buy from?


ta.korea.global


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Change bottom right settings to look like mine.


done!
Had to do with the driver, which I skipped - read back toasty's post, completely missed it like a proper noob.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tallbrahh*
> 
> That's weird, mine showed up in the settings as 1440*2560 96hz without me having to do anything special. I guess check that both the CRU and your AMD/Nvidia control centre (or whatever) also is set at 96hz?


Don't need to use CRU with Nvidia.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> done!
> Had to do with the driver, which I skipped - read back toasty's post, completely missed it like a proper noob.


The most important are the 2 above HBAO.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> done!
> Had to do with the driver, which I skipped - read back toasty's post, completely missed it like a proper noob.


Any noticeable blur/input lag?


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The most important are the 2 above HBAO.


So having aliasing on is pointless with this resolution?


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> ta.korea.global


Didnt we order around the same time? I got mine today. Looks good, will play with it and let you guys know.


----------



## snapdragon

Had a question for you guys. I keep hearing stories of the issues with the monitor esp things like not turning on.
How many of you recommend getting the square trade warranty


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The most important are the 2 above HBAO.


Sweet - can't wait for my 2nd 680 so that I can boost that FPS UPPPPP!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Any noticeable blur/input lag?


Nothing I can input right now - still playing with resolutions







!
Going to also make a really short video guide to OC the monitor - all credit to toasty though.
Links + credit will all go to him and his guide- but thought to make a comprehensible and easy to understand guide for noobs like me







!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

HUGE WARNING, for those in the UK!
So I called SquareTrade earlier today and they said:
"It was purchased in USD, paid with GBP, so we can't cover it."
My monitor does NOT comply with their policy as it was purchased in USD....

No matter what the paypal says, if it was displayed in USD on ebay (be it uk or .com) thne it is NOT covered.
Extremely important to point out as some of you guys might be purchasing as I did.
Oh well I'll rely on 1 year with the seller









EDIT:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1476981/warning-for-uk-users-on-squaretrade-warranty-qnix-qx2710

Created a thread, so it doesn't get lost







!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> So having aliasing on is pointless with this resolution?


The game still looks awesome with those settings, while still having solid FPS.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tallbrahh*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Just thought I'd give you the info about my purchase.
> 
> I bought a:
> 
> QNIX QX2710 Evo II
> Matte
> For US$360 express shipping
> Item listed as: "Ultimate Perfect Pixel 27" QNIX QX2710 Evo ll Matte QHD 2560x1440 PLS Monitor"
> from ebay user: excellentcastle
> Stable overclock: 100hz. I leave it at 96hz though.
> Zero dead/stuck pixels.
> No back-light bleed.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271375013937?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> Thanks to Lawson67 in this thread for great info and recommending this specific item.
> 
> I'm yet to apply colour calibration profiles, will try them now.
> 
> I tried overclocking higher with a different cable but didn't get any higher.
> 
> On the box was this sticker:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This desk mounted stand I got is phenomenal:
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281204264113?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't tell you how happy I am with this monitor, it's just perfect. Huge thankyou to this club, overclock, the community, toastyX and all the posts in here. Super helpful, super understandable.
> 
> I feel like my setup is now complete


Glad you are happy with your ultimate pixel perfect monitor!... glad to of helped choose the right monitor for you...have fun with it mate


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> HUGE WARNING, for those in the UK!
> So I called SquareTrade earlier today and they said:
> "It was purchased in USD, paid with GBP, so we can't cover it."
> My monitor does NOT comply with their policy as it was purchased in USD....
> 
> No matter what the paypal says, if it was displayed in USD on ebay (be it uk or .com) thne it is NOT covered.
> Extremely important to point out as some of you guys might be purchasing as I did.
> Oh well I'll rely on 1 year with the seller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1476981/warning-for-uk-users-on-squaretrade-warranty-qnix-qx2710
> 
> Created a thread, so it doesn't get lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


The only thing I have ever bought any kind of extended warranty was on cheapo chairs I tried out, it was $15. Even that was a waste, since the material cracked even before a year was up.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Sweet - can't wait for my 2nd 680 so that I can boost that FPS UPPPPP!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing I can input right now - still playing with resolutions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Going to also make a really short video guide to OC the monitor - all credit to toasty though.
> Links + credit will all go to him and his guide- but thought to make a comprehensible and easy to understand guide for noobs like me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Once you have SLI just make sure to run the full patcher.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> HUGE WARNING, for those in the UK!
> So I called SquareTrade earlier today and they said:
> "It was purchased in USD, paid with GBP, so we can't cover it."
> My monitor does NOT comply with their policy as it was purchased in USD....
> 
> No matter what the paypal says, if it was displayed in USD on ebay (be it uk or .com) thne it is NOT covered.
> Extremely important to point out as some of you guys might be purchasing as I did.
> Oh well I'll rely on 1 year with the seller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1476981/warning-for-uk-users-on-squaretrade-warranty-qnix-qx2710
> 
> Created a thread, so it doesn't get lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Bought mine on Ebay.co.uk and paid USD which paypal then converted into GBP!... Squaretrade UK covered my monitor just fine!...all they needed was the USD into GBP receipt from paypal and it was a done deal and covered!.....Mine was advertised in GBP thought but it still went into USD before paypal converted it into GBP...so sounds crazy!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Bought mine on Ebay.co.uk and paid USD which paypal then converted into GBP!... Squaretrade UK covered my monitor just fine!...all they needed was the USD into GBP receipt from paypal and it was a done deal and covered!


nop!
I can confirm their policy, and the advisor assured me otherwise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Once you have SLI just make sure to run the full patcher.


Indeed - I'll re-install drivers, redo the patcher and the driver







!
Thanks though


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> nop!
> I can confirm their policy, and the advisor assured me otherwise.
> Indeed - I'll re-install drivers, redo the patcher and the driver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Thanks though


Call them again, I am curious to see if 2 different people give 2 different answers.


----------



## exzacklyright

What does "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" even mean? Do they guarantee perfect pixel?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d19259934


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> nop!
> I can confirm their policy, and the advisor assured me otherwise.
> Indeed - I'll re-install drivers, redo the patcher and the driver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Thanks though


Unless you're reinstalling windows you don't need to reinstall the Qnix driver. You've only got to do the driver once.

Each time I install a new video driver I uninstall the drivers, disconnect the internet, run DDU in safe mode, reinstall drivers and reboot, reconnect internet, run the full patcher and reboot, then redo my custom resolutions in the Nvidia control panel.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Who did you buy from?


Mate if you want to buy a pixel perfect monitor you will be fine buying this monitor from Excellentcastle...Every ultimate pixel perfect monitor he has sold to our members for the last 3 months have indeed been pixel perfect!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271375013937?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f2f361831


----------



## tallbrahh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Don't need to use CRU with Nvidia.


Ahh I see (you can probably tell I'm using an AMD haha)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Had a question for you guys. I keep hearing stories of the issues with the monitor esp things like not turning on.
> How many of you recommend getting the square trade warranty


I did not get any warranties
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Glad you are happy with your ultimate pixel perfect monitor!... glad to of helped choose the right monitor for you...have fun with it mate


Thanks again! I had no idea you'd reply! You helped me complete my battlestation with the best result possible (the perfect panel).

My final question is this:
I can get a stable overclock at 100hz and 96hz. Which should i leave it at?
I know the difference is minuscule, i was just considering films play at 24fps and 96 is a multiple of that.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*
> 
> So I finally managed to calibrate my monitor with a third part software (dispcalGUI in my case) and the difference to my old profiles is HUGE. I didn't realize how blueish my whites were before and especially the black levels are superior compared to my old profiles. So I highly recommend anyone with Qnix to give this new profile of mine a go. My Qnix is running @ 96hz and the profile is done to 2.2 gamma, 6.5k whitepoint and with 180cd/cm2 backlight, which in my monitor is 17 clicks from the minimum.
> 
> Qnix-96hz-180cdcm2-dispcalGUI.zip 11k .zip file


nice!

I'm undecided though!
Your colour profile give it a little bit more blue hue.
Not sure which is better or worse.

Any other colour profiles?
I'm at 17clicks at 96hz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Call them again, I am curious to see if 2 different people give 2 different answers.


yup super curious too.
Although lawson seems to have purchased it in GBP on ebay UK, but had the paypal paid in USD and converted.
For me it is almost all the same, apart from the fact that on eBay it is advertised as USD.

in all honesty, I've never really had problems with monitor failures.
Only that crap-sus one I had, that was utterly useless. All this warranty from "country" and crap-sus couldn't and refused to do anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> What does "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" even mean? Do they guarantee perfect pixel?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/331134376244?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d19259934


no dead pixels, yes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Unless you're reinstalling windows you don't need to reinstall the Qnix driver. You've only got to do the driver once.
> 
> Each time I install a new video driver I uninstall the drivers, disconnect the internet, run DDU in safe mode, reinstall drivers and reboot, reconnect internet, run the full patcher and reboot, then redo my custom resolutions in the Nvidia control panel.


dayme, that's quite a lot of work!
And understood about the drivers







!
+reps


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tallbrahh*
> 
> Ahh I see (you can probably tell I'm using an AMD haha)
> I did not get any warranties
> Thanks again! I had no idea you'd reply! You helped me complete my battlestation with the best result possible (the perfect panel).
> 
> My final question is this:
> I can get a stable overclock at 100hz and 96hz. Which should i leave it at?
> I know the difference is minuscule, i was just considering films play at 24fps and 96 is a multiple of that.


I don't think you will see any difference really!
Also have you tried optimized timings and tried for 120hz....try my timings below


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> nice!
> 
> I'm undecided though!
> Your colour profile give it a little bit more blue hue.
> Not sure which is better or worse.
> 
> Any other colour profiles?
> I'm at 17clicks at 96hz


I've been using the Asus PB278Q ICC profile for about the past month or so and so far I'm liking it better than any other profile I've tried in the past.

You can find a link to it on the first page of this thread.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> Profiles for the name-brand monitors that have the same PLS panel inside of them as the QNIX & X-star might work out for you. Calibrations posted *[CLICK] here at TFT Central* may be stock factory and/or personal calibrations for said monitors. *Personally, out of every calibration profile posted here the Asus PB278Q.icc (TFT Central source, not User source) looked the best on my monitor, and is a favorite for others as well.* (It becomes named Asus PB278Q v3.icc when loaded into windows color management).
> Name brand monitors that have the same PLS panel internally Go to tft central and download these:
> Asus PB278Q
> Samsung S27A850D
> Viewsonic VP2770-LED


----------



## tallbrahh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I don't think you will see any difference really!
> Also have you tried optimized timings and tried for 120hz....try my timings below


I'll be sure to give it a go tomorrow, I'll let you know how it goes!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tallbrahh*
> 
> This desk mounted stand I got is phenomenal:
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281204264113?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


Where can I find this in the U.S? I want!

Or willing to ship to California


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> nice!
> 
> I'm undecided though!
> Your colour profile give it a little bit more blue hue.
> Not sure which is better or worse.
> 
> Any other colour profiles?
> I'm at 17clicks at 96hz


Here you go 14 different 96hz ICC profiles at different colour temperatures etc i calibrated on my Qnix....you might need color keeper to apply many of them unless yasamoka has added support for basICColor display 5 ICC profiles in Color Sustainer?

96HZ.zip 160k .zip file


CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


----------



## Vesanius

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> nice!
> 
> I'm undecided though!
> Your colour profile give it a little bit more blue hue.
> Not sure which is better or worse.
> 
> Any other colour profiles?
> I'm at 17clicks at 96hz


Check the first post of this thread. I have two more profiles posted there, but they have a little more blue hue than the latest one. On my monitor anyway. But unless you are getting your own calibrating device there's no way to get a spot on profile unfortunately, since every panel is unique.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 96Hz: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qalq3jgtxf9dq7c/Qnix_2.2_6500_11clicks_96Hz.icm
> 110Hz: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jvgk3kmo6xkacmn/Qnix%206500K%20g2.2%20110Hz%20%282014-03-12%29.icm
> 
> Mien.


Tnx for these color profiles. Was just wondering at how many brightness clicks from 0 did you calibrate them?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> I've been using the Asus PB278Q ICC profile for about the past month or so and so far I'm liking it better than any other profile I've tried in the past.
> 
> You can find a link to it on the first page of this thread.
> 
> edit:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Here you go 14 different 96hz ICC profiles at different colour temperatures etc i calibrated on my Qnix....you might need color keeper to apply many of them unless yasamoka has added support for basICColor display 5 ICC profiles in Color Sustainer?
> 
> 96HZ.zip 160k .zip file
> 
> 
> CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file


Hmmm I tried, but the tool goes "red" when I try and select any of those profiles?

EDIT:
Colour keeper sort thats out - trying now!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesanius*


Check the first post of this thread. I have two more profiles posted there, but they have a little more blue hue than the latest one. On my monitor anyway. But unless you are getting your own calibrating device there's no way to get a spot on profile unfortunately, since every panel is unique.[/quote]

Cool beans!


----------



## exzacklyright

Anyone using these vesa mounts?

http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-monitors-widescreen-standard-mount/dp/B001HHNCQY/ref=sr_1_4?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1395859935&sr=1-4

The problem is I have a glass desk so I'm not sure if I should even go a clamp. The LX ones do look nice though.

It says they only support up to 25'' monitors though? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00689HXI4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00689HXI4&linkCode=as2&tag=3to-20


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hmmm I tried, but the tool goes "red" when I try and select any of those profiles?


Thats why you need to apply them with color keeper and not Color Sustainer as yasamoka clearly has not added support for basICColor display 5 ICC profiles yet in Color Sustainer which is why Color Sustainer show red when you try to apply them!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thats why you need to apply them with color keeper and not Color Sustainer as yasamoka clearly has not added support for basICColor display 5 ICC profiles yet in Color Sustainer which is why Color Sustainer show red when you try to apply them!


Ok just tried them all - apart from the last one, they're all horrible to my eyes.
Too yellow, too warm, then too cold, too blue.

I have to say the one linked - for the asus_pb278q - nails it.

OK!
"Viewsonic VP2770-LED User Color"
Was very good.

But the asus one nails it - perfect colours to my eyes!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ok just tried them all - apart from the last one, they're all horrible to my eyes.
> Too yellow, too warm, then too cold, too blue.
> 
> I have to say the one linked - for the asus_pb278q - nails it.
> 
> OK!
> "Viewsonic VP2770-LED User Color"
> Was very good.
> 
> But the asus one nails it - perfect colours to my eyes!


Yep i only like my monitor calibrated at its native white point and then its just perfect!


----------



## MenacingTuba

Those monitors color presets are quite different, best to use a Qnix profile, specifically those made with an i1 Display 3 (Spyder is less accurate) or i1 pro and DispcalGUI.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep i only like my monitor calibrated at its native white point and then its just perfect!


What I don't like is the tool "keeper" one.
Because when I hit reset, it doesn't reset.
Only resets if I restart the PC! Any work-around?

In fact, I did some more tests (reboots) and stock, my monitor does a better job, still lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Those monitors color presets are quite different, best to use a Qnix profile, specifically those made with an i1 Display 3 (Spyder is less accurate) or i1 pro and DispcalGUI.


Could you link me with some I should try







?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What I don't like is the tool "keeper" one.
> Because when I hit reset, it doesn't reset.
> Only resets if I restart the PC! Any work-around?


Make sure Color Sustainer not running at the same time as Colour Keeper









Or just exit Colour keeper and then restart!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Make sure Color Sustainer not running at the same time as Colour Keeper


It isn't bro!
Is there no proper "reset button"? As it doesn't properly reset


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> It isn't bro!
> Is there no proper "reset button"? As it doesn't properly reset


Exit colour keeper then its same as reset....start colour keeper choose profile repeat....BTW it resets fine on mine....however try what i just said same thing just a more funky way of doing things lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Exit colour keeper then its same as reset....start colour keeper choose profile repeat....BTW it resets fine on mine....however try what i just said same thing just a more funky way of doing things lol


nop it refuses to do so.


----------



## lawson67

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



SquareTrade eBay Co. UK
Your Care Plan Summary

Total Premium Paid: £41.99

Policy Number: 07*******121

Equipment Insured: Electronics item

Cover begins*: 17/02/2014

Cover ends*: 17/02/2017

Email or fax us a copy of your item purchase receipt and we'll keep it on file, so you don't have to provide it at claims time.

*If your item is described as "new", Cover End assumes it has a valid manufacturer's warranty. If not, we may change your Term to reflect this.

Dear Lawson Green,

Your SquareTrade warranty purchase on eBay.co.uk is now complete. Please note: You will not get a paper contract in the post unless you request one. Your contract is included below and available online.

WHAT TO DO NEXT

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You sell the insured item or transfer ownership to another person.
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Revise the premium; and/or
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Unless some other law is agreed in writing, this policy is governed by English law. If there is a dispute, it will only be dealt with in the courts of England or of the country within the UK in which your main residence is situated.

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We will contact you immediately after receiving your complaint to inform you of what action we are taking and explain our complaint handling process to you. Once you have received your final response from us, and if you are still not satisfied you can contact the Financial Ombudsman Service: Financial Ombudsman Service, South Quay Plaza, 183 Marsh Wall, London, E14 9SR. By telephone on 0845 0801800 or 0300 1239 123 or by email: [email protected]

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SquareTrade, Inc. 48 - 54 Charlotte Street, Charlotte Street, London, W1T 2NS, United Kingdom


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> SquareTrade eBay Co. UK
> Your Care Plan Summary
> 
> Total Premium Paid: £41.99
> 
> Policy Number: 07*******121
> 
> Equipment Insured: Electronics item
> 
> Cover begins*: 17/02/2014
> 
> Cover ends*: 17/02/2017
> 
> Email or fax us a copy of your item purchase receipt and we'll keep it on file, so you don't have to provide it at claims time.
> 
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> 
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> 
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> If the information provided by you is not complete and accurate, we may:
> 
> Revise the premium; and/or
> Cancel your policy; and/or
> Refuse to pay a claim
> Choice of Law
> 
> Unless some other law is agreed in writing, this policy is governed by English law. If there is a dispute, it will only be dealt with in the courts of England or of the country within the UK in which your main residence is situated.
> 
> Use of Language
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> Unless otherwise agreed, the contractual terms and conditions and other information relating to this contract will be in English.
> 
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> 
> SquareTrade's goal is to provide you with the best service possible at all times. If for any reason you are not satisfied with our service, contact SquareTrade and we will promptly review your case and respond to you. You can contact SquareTrade at:
> 
> Customer Experience Manager,
> SquareTrade Limited
> 48 - 54 Charlotte Street,
> London,
> W1T 2NS.
> 
> Telephone: 0808 189 1453 between 9am and 6pm GMT, 7 days a week.
> 
> We will contact you immediately after receiving your complaint to inform you of what action we are taking and explain our complaint handling process to you. Once you have received your final response from us, and if you are still not satisfied you can contact the Financial Ombudsman Service: Financial Ombudsman Service, South Quay Plaza, 183 Marsh Wall, London, E14 9SR. By telephone on 0845 0801800 or 0300 1239 123 or by email: [email protected]
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> SquareTrade, Inc. 48 - 54 Charlotte Street, Charlotte Street, London, W1T 2NS, United Kingdom


nice - but put that in a spoiler


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thats why you need to apply them with color keeper and not Color Sustainer as yasamoka clearly has not added support for basICColor display 5 ICC profiles yet in Color Sustainer which is why Color Sustainer show red when you try to apply them!


I have offered a temporary workaround for this issue on Color Sustainer's Guru3D forum thread.

The workaround is in post #48.

This will convert these color profiles to ones Color Sustainer can currently use.

Enjoy!

Was unable to compile for more than 2 weeks, got my code all messed up everywhere. Back a few days ago and releasing a new version soon









University is wrecking my time too









BTW, one of the regulars here should really take over the OP.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naxxy*
> 
> Tnx for these color profiles. Was just wondering at how many brightness clicks from 0 did you calibrate them?


I think 12 or 14, not sure. 12 corresponds to 120-130cd/m2 after calibration and 14 corresponds to about 150cd/m2. Again, not sure, but it shouldn't matter; the profiles do not in any way reduce brightness to a set limit (e.g. 120 / 140 cd/m2) so it lowers brightness only as much as it needs to to get white and the other colors correct (at any brightness given they're equally inaccurate).


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I have offered a temporary workaround for this issue on Color Sustainer's Guru3D forum thread.
> 
> The workaround is in post #48.
> 
> This will convert these color profiles to ones Color Sustainer can currently use.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> Was unable to compile for more than 2 weeks, got my code all messed up everywhere. Back a few days ago and releasing a new version soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> University is wrecking my time too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, one of the regulars here should really take over the OP.


Great i can now use some of my other ICC profiles with Color Sustainer!....Thanks for the workaround yasamoka


----------



## yasamoka

So tell me, the workaround worked for you guys now?


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I think 12 or 14, not sure. 12 corresponds to 120-130cd/m2 after calibration and 14 corresponds to about 150cd/m2. Again, not sure, but it shouldn't matter; the profiles do not in any way reduce brightness to a set limit (e.g. 120 / 140 cd/m2) so it lowers brightness only as much as it needs to to get white and the other colors correct (at any brightness given they're equally inaccurate).


Thanks a lot. I found out 12 clicks looks best for me


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Boom!
Full description and guide to OC'ing your QNIX monitor







!
Full credit to Toasty and all those involved!




EDIT: Here's the pictures showing my ultimate perfect pixel monitor and really low BLB + OC results (115hz gave me green lines, after the picture was taken):












Not really valid - due to green lines showing afterwards:


*Here's my unboxing and overview of it:*


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Boom!
> Full description and guide to OC'ing your QNIX monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Full credit to Toasty and all those involved!


This guy is not toastyX its some random guy reading Toastys guide and he told everyone to use "*nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe*" the full patch when you only need that for SLI and if you are using 400/500-series GPUs!...Also he only told people how to overclock with Nvidia cards even though he told everyone to use the "nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe" when they all don't need too!....Also he did not tell anyone how to use CRU with AMD cards!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> This guy is not toastyX its some random guy reading Toastys guide and he told everyone to use "*nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe*" the full patch when you only need that for SLI!.. and he only told people how to overclock with Nvidia cards and not how to use CRU with AMD cards!


so the patch is only needed for SLI?
I heard otherwise :/


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> so the patch is only needed for SLI?
> I heard otherwise :/


Yep you only need the nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe and for SLI and i think for the older 400/500-series GPUs!...and for only 96hz you might not even need the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe at all!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> so the patch is only needed for SLI?
> I heard otherwise :/


The file comes with 2 patches, since I run SLI, I used the full version and deleted the other, so now I cant make a mistake.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> so the patch is only needed for SLI?
> I heard otherwise :/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep you only need the nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe and for SLI and i think for the older 400/500-series GPUs!...and for only 96hz you might not even need the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe at all!


Straight from ToastyX

*"The patch is still needed in three cases:

1. SLI needs the full patch to work properly beyond 400 MHz pixel clock.
2. Some 500-series cards are limited to 400 MHz without the full patch. 600-series and newer cards are not limited.
3. CRU needs the regular patch to add resolutions beyond 330 MHz pixel clock. The regular patch won't break HDCP.

600-series and newer cards without SLI don't need the patch when using the NVIDIA control panel or the EVGA pixel clock feature."*


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Straight from ToastyX
> 
> *"The patch is still needed in three cases:
> 
> 1. SLI needs the full patch to work properly beyond 400 MHz pixel clock.
> 2. Some 500-series cards are limited to 400 MHz without the full patch. 600-series and newer cards are not limited.
> 3. CRU needs the regular patch to add resolutions beyond 330 MHz pixel clock. The regular patch won't break HDCP.
> 
> 600-series and newer cards without SLI don't need the patch when using the NVIDIA control panel or the EVGA pixel clock feature."*


So i was right Dubbed and if you are running only 96hz as i think you are and your card is is a 600 or newer card which i think it is ... if so you are don't need the patch at all if you are using NVCP.....you have a GTX670 yes?


----------



## yasamoka

Nice review, Totally Dubbed!

Just two remarks. 96Hz being a multiple of 24 is useful only for people who would like to run 96Hz 24/7 on their monitors. Given the side effects of overclocking: gamma shift, uniformity, and most importantly image retention, although less serious at 96Hz than at 110Hz+, some might prefer to run at 60Hz on the Desktop instead, and 96Hz+ in games. If you are watching a 24FPS movie, fullscreen, it would be preferable to use 72Hz instead, as it's closer to 60Hz and thus has less overclocking side effects than 96Hz. 72Hz is a bog-standard overclock that works on almost all monitors that don't skip frames directly above 60Hz yet don't overclock beyond 70-80Hz or so (branded monitors).

The other remark is that 24FPS videos are really 23.976FPS and so 72Hz should really be 71.928Hz, and 96Hz should really be 95.904Hz. 60Hz is really 59.94Hz so that 3:2 pulldown still works precisely with 23.976FPS content, as 23.976 * 2.5 = 59.94Hz sharp. You might find that 60Hz default was 59.95Hz or 60Hz; if so, set that to 59.94Hz for video.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> So i was right Dubbed and if you are running only 96hz as i think you are and your card is is a 600 or nwer card which i think it is ... if so you are don't need the patch at all if you are using NVCP.....you have a GTX670 yes?


That means, I don't need it also, if I am understanding it correctly.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep you only need the nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe and for SLI and i think for the older 400/500-series GPUs!...and for only 96hz you might not even need the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe at all!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The file comes with 2 patches, since I run SLI, I used the full version and deleted the other, so now I cant make a mistake.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Straight from ToastyX
> 
> *"The patch is still needed in three cases:
> 
> 1. SLI needs the full patch to work properly beyond 400 MHz pixel clock.
> 2. Some 500-series cards are limited to 400 MHz without the full patch. 600-series and newer cards are not limited.
> 3. CRU needs the regular patch to add resolutions beyond 330 MHz pixel clock. The regular patch won't break HDCP.
> 
> 600-series and newer cards without SLI don't need the patch when using the NVIDIA control panel or the EVGA pixel clock feature."*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> So i was right Dubbed and if you are running only 96hz as i think you are and your card is is a 600 or newer card which i think it is ... if so you are don't need the patch at all if you are using NVCP.....you have a GTX670 yes?


GTX680 actually







!

But there's nothing wrong with being "safe than sorry" with the patch though?
I mean if you don't use it / recommend it - then you might not OC or run into problems.
However if you use it, there's 0 adverse effects towards it....am I right? If so - then I don't have to worry about the OC guide I created via video.
The DRIVER sure made a difference though - without it the OC wouldn't stick / apply itself to games.


----------



## Watagump

Just restored mine, so no patch being used, running at 96hz still.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> So i was right Dubbed and if you are running only 96hz as i think you are and your card is is a 600 or newer card which i think it is ... if so you are don't need the patch at all if you are using NVCP.....you have a GTX670 yes?


Yes that's right. With a single 670 using the NVCP method to OC, you don't need either patcher.

Basically for that setup all you need to do is:

1) Install the Qnix driver
2) OC with NVCP

I always use the full patcher because I have SLI.

I think 96Hz clocks in at around 383MHz pixel clock, so you really only need the full patcher in SLI if you're going to go with 100+Hz (it sounds like from reading what ToastyX wrote there).


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Yes that's right. With a single 670 using the NVCP method to OC, you don't need either patcher.
> 
> Basically for that setup all you need to do is:
> 
> 1) Install the Qnix driver
> 2) OC with NVCP
> 
> I always use the full patcher because I have SLI.
> 
> I think 96Hz clocks in at around 383MHz pixel clock, so you really only need the full patcher in SLI if you're going to go with 100+Hz (it sounds like from reading what ToastyX wrote there).


What Qnix driver?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Yes that's right. With a single 670 using the NVCP method to OC, you don't need either patcher.
> 
> Basically for that setup all you need to do is:
> 
> 1) Install the Qnix driver
> 2) OC with NVCP
> 
> I always use the full patcher because I have SLI.
> 
> I think 96Hz clocks in at around 383MHz pixel clock, so you really only need the full patcher in SLI if you're going to go with 100+Hz (it sounds like from reading what ToastyX wrote there).
> 
> No i think you will find that you still
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> What Qnix driver?
> 
> 
> 
> This monitor driver
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
Click to expand...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> This monitor driver
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file


No driver in that, just setup information.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> GTX680 actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> But there's nothing wrong with being "safe than sorry" with the patch though?
> I mean if you don't use it / recommend it - then you might not OC or run into problems.
> However if you use it, there's 0 adverse effects towards it....am I right? If so - then I don't have to worry about the OC guide I created via video.
> The DRIVER sure made a difference though - without it the OC wouldn't stick / apply itself to games.


No i would *not* use the full patcher if you do not need to!...And there are as there are as adverse effects towards using it!....it breaks HDCP support.....i would not use any patch at all if i did not need too


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No i would *not* use the full patcher if you are as there are as adverse effects towards it!....it breaks HDCP support.....i would not use any patch at all if i was you


Well I'll be SLI in 1-2days, so I'll need it anyway.
But HDCP - what do I care about that? lol I'm not sony!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> No driver in that, just setup information.


Its an .INF Monitor driver file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well I'll be SLI in 1-2days, so I'll need it anyway.
> But HDCP - what do I care about that? lol I'm not sony!


I used the full Patch with my SLI set up before i went over to AMD and it worked just perfect for me!

Edit: Have to say though i am loving my two R9 290 cards


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> What Qnix driver?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> No driver in that, just setup information.


Go to Device Manager, find your monitor, right click, update driver, from there follow the steps to browse to that .inf and use that .inf as your monitor driver.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Its an .INF Monitor driver file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Go to Device Manager, find your monitor, right click, update driver, from there follow the steps to browse to that .inf and use that .inf as your monitor driver.


Okie dokie, what does the driver do, like might help overclock higher? I doubt it, but thought I would ask.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Okie dokie, what does the driver do, like might help overclock higher? I doubt it, but thought I would ask.


Before installing that driver, your monitor shows up as a generic PnP device. That driver tells programs that your monitor isn't a generic 60Hz monitor, but that it's capable of more Hz.

As an example, without that driver, some games may run at 60Hz even if you have 96Hz set in your NVCP. But with that driver the games will be able to tell that your monitor is capable of 96Hz, 120Hz etc.

It has nothing to do with OCing, but getting programs to recognize that you OCed.

You don't need it with AMD cards because with AMD cards I believe that the method of OCing is using CRU. CRU allows you to set "native" resolutions, which games will recognize.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Before installing that driver, your monitor shows up as a generic PnP device. That driver tells programs that your monitor isn't a generic 60Hz monitor, but that it's capable of more Hz.
> 
> As an example, without that driver, some games may run at 60Hz even if you have 96Hz set in your NVCP. But with that driver the games will be able to tell that your monitor is capable of 96Hz, 120Hz etc.
> 
> It has nothing to do with OCing, but getting programs to recognize that you OCed.


Yeah, just read what it does, thanks though. All my games see the 96hz already.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Yeah, just read what it does, thanks though. All my games see the 96hz already.


Are you using the NVCP method to OC or CRU? With CRU you don't need the driver because you're creating "native" resolutions / refresh rates.

And you are right, I believe that the Hz recognition issue only pops up sometimes.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Are you using the NVCP method to OC or CRU? With CRU you don't need the driver because you're creating "native" resolutions / refresh rates.
> 
> And you are right, I believe that the Hz recognition issue only pops up sometimes.


Just NVCP, even removed the patch today. Installed it anyhow, just to get rid of the Generic PNP.


----------



## SiNiquity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SiNiquity*
> 
> Hi all, long time follower of this thread first time poster.
> 
> I just got my X-star that I ordered from dream-seller on Ebay. Unfortunately it seems to be defective - there's a sharp purple line right down the middle of the monitor that fades a bit towards the top. It's really unfortunate too because otherwise the monitor is fantastic - very minor backlight bleed on the left side that could likely be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures of line:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/Wsjueoh.jpg (white background)
> http://i.imgur.com/cDHAanY.jpg (dark grey background showing the xstar logo)
> 
> Is there anything I can do to fix this, or am I stuck paying shipping back to Korea and cutting my losses?


Hey just wanted to give you guys an update on this. I contacted dream-seller immediately with the pictures and within 24 hours had an address and FedEx account number to use to ship the monitor back. When asked if I wanted a refund or replacement I of course opted for the replacement - other than the obvious defect the monitor was pristine with very little BLB and no other dead pixels. However there were a few hiccups in getting the replacement monitor - I checked out using a guest account on both Ebay and Paypal (I don't normally use either). I had an Ebay transaction number to verify the sale and a Paypal receipt number to verify the payment, they could find neither in their (ebay's? paypal's?) system. By examining one of the URLs Ebay sent me I was able to deduce my guest account name, and this seemed to help. I was promised a replacement, but it took another 2 weeks due to so many recent orders (I blame you guys







). Throughout the entire process dream seller was extremely courteous and professional. I just finished setting up the replacement and the monitor is not only pixel perfect, but 0 BLB (?!). At least not that my eyes can discern.

TL;DR Don't use guest accounts to make the replacement process simpler. Got the new XStar and it's beautiful - worth every penny and then some.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Just NVCP, even removed the patch today. Installed it anyhow, just to get rid of the Generic PNP.


I haven't installed any patch, and haven't had a game not recognize 96hz running 780TI's in SLI. Even with two monitors on one 780TI, with one at 120hz, and the other at 110hz. I just used NVCP.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Before installing that driver, your monitor shows up as a generic PnP device. That driver tells programs that your monitor isn't a generic 60Hz monitor, but that it's capable of more Hz.
> 
> As an example, without that driver, some games may run at 60Hz even if you have 96Hz set in your NVCP. But with that driver the games will be able to tell that your monitor is capable of 96Hz, 120Hz etc.
> 
> It has nothing to do with OCing, but getting programs to recognize that you OCed.
> 
> You don't need it with AMD cards because with AMD cards I believe that the method of OCing is using CRU. CRU allows you to set "native" resolutions, which games will recognize.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Yeah, just read what it does, thanks though. All my games see the 96hz already.


Ie for me was BF4 displaying 60hz and not 110 and 96


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I haven't installed any patch, and haven't had a game not recognize 96hz running 780TI's in SLI. Even with two monitors on one 780TI, with one at 120hz, and the other at 110hz. I just used NVCP.


SLI is limited to a pixel clock of 400MHz on 6-series cards (possibly 7-series cards too).

For SLI at 96Hz you are below the 400MHz clock cap so you don't need to worry about using the patcher.

For your single 780Ti you don't need the full patcher.

So for both of the usage scenarios you described you don't need the full patcher.

But like ToastyX mentioned, there are 3 scenarios where you do need the full patcher.

For dual-link DVI you should need the normal patcher for going above 330MHz pixel clock, unless Nvidia changed their drivers. I'll check next time I update my drivers.


----------



## Snerp

WOOT! Just got my QNIX. She's purdy!


----------



## McLaren_F1

Is the latest stable drivers for AMD the best for this monitor overclocking?


----------



## coelacanth

I just popped over to ToastyX's thread at monitortests and found this:

*"Titan and GTX 780 cards do not need the full patch for SLI."*

I figured that the pixel clock limit imposed on 6-series cards and older was a software (driver) limitation (thus the patcher) and also Nvidia basically saying, "If you want to run 2560 x 1440 at 120Hz and have SLI, you have to buy 7-series cards or Titans" (Even though GTX 5XX and 6XX cards are completely capable of running 2560 x 1440 at 120Hz).

Sneaky, Nvidia, sneaky. Intentionally crippling perfectly good hardware to force people to upgrade.

I know that this post isn't anything new but it just dawned on me.

Next time I update my drivers (I have SLI GTX 780s) I will see if I still need the patcher with those drivers.


----------



## Snerp

Hmmm...

I guess the best I'm going to get is 96hz:thumbsdow

I was really hoping for 120


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> This guy is not toastyX its some random guy reading Toastys guide and he told everyone to use "*nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe*" the full patch when you only need that for SLI and if you are using 400/500-series GPUs!...Also he only told people how to overclock with Nvidia cards even though he told everyone to use the "nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe" when they all don't need too!....Also he did not tell anyone how to use CRU with AMD cards!


he told me how to use CRU with my AMD card and answered all my questions. just saying!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> Hmmm...
> 
> I guess the best I'm going to get is 96hz:thumbsdow
> 
> I was really hoping for 120


It seems a lot of these are now not hitting 120hz.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It seems a lot of these are now not hitting 120hz.


I take it back. It looks like I can get 110hz. Has to be with reduced LCD though


----------



## hak8or

So, I am really disappointed with storewithstory.

I bought a [Perfect Pixel] 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor on March 23rd and it has been four days now with the monitor being tested.

I messaged the ebay seller yesterday and got a response said it was being tested. I understand one day delay for testing, two days is rather crappy, but three days? That is utter garbage, especially when this is a monitor that can be tested in five minutes.

Tomorrow I will message again asking whats up, especially considering the "Domestic handling time" says "Will usually ship within 2 business days of receiving cleared payment".


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> I take it back. It looks like I can get 110hz. Has to be with reduced LCD though


When I tried 110hz, moving the mouse on my desktop screen would produce a thin white line.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> So, I am really disappointed with storewithstory.
> 
> I bought a [Perfect Pixel] 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor on March 23rd and it has been four days now with the monitor being tested.
> 
> I messaged the ebay seller yesterday and got a response said it was being tested. I understand one day delay for testing, two days is rather crappy, but three days? That is utter garbage, especially when this is a monitor that can be tested in five minutes.
> 
> Tomorrow I will message again asking whats up, especially considering the "Domestic handling time" says "Will usually ship within 2 business days of receiving cleared payment".


It took them about 4 business days for them to ship to me. Just remember, you aren't their only customer. You could have shelled out a bit more to one of the other sellers that said they'd ship within one business day.

And the handling time is a standard thing that eBay does. If you have ever set it for any of your auctions it will automatically put that for others, unless it is changed.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> So, I am really disappointed with storewithstory.
> 
> I bought a [Perfect Pixel] 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor on March 23rd and it has been four days now with the monitor being tested.
> 
> I messaged the ebay seller yesterday and got a response said it was being tested. I understand one day delay for testing, two days is rather crappy, but three days? That is utter garbage, especially when this is a monitor that can be tested in five minutes.
> 
> Tomorrow I will message again asking whats up, especially considering the "Domestic handling time" says "Will usually ship within 2 business days of receiving cleared payment".


This is the first issue I have heard using that seller, maybe they are finally getting low on stock like other sellers. It was last Friday when I ordered mine, which meant Saturday there, I still got mine on Tuesday.


----------



## Watagump

I ordered a 7000mah battery for my S3 on Sunday. Its coming from Texas, its now Wednesday, tracking shows it as leaving Texas today. I got a monitor from Korea in 2 business days, 3 if you count Saturday. Something is wrong with this picture.


----------



## htapocysp

Quote:


> So, I am really disappointed with storewithstory.
> 
> I bought a [Perfect Pixel] 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor on March 23rd and it has been four days now with the monitor being tested.
> 
> I messaged the ebay seller yesterday and got a response said it was being tested. I understand one day delay for testing, two days is rather crappy, but three days? That is utter garbage, especially when this is a monitor that can be tested in five minutes.
> 
> Tomorrow I will message again asking whats up, especially considering the "Domestic handling time" says "Will usually ship within 2 business days of receiving cleared payment".


I bought a ultimate pixel version from them on the 24th mine has also not shipped yet. 2-4 days is probably pretty normal. Some people may have just got lucky with faster shipping.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htapocysp*
> 
> I bought a ultimate pixel version from them on the 24th mine has also not shipped yet. 2-4 days is probably pretty normal. Some people may have just got lucky with faster shipping.


They may have run out of pre-tested stock or something. I ordered last Friday and mine shipped same day, delivered Tuesday after DHL was delayed (should have been Monday).


----------



## iCrap

Got my refund for the deffective qnix and bought a glossy monex from storewithstory. Hope i get it soon and without issue...


----------



## travanx

Someone might find this useful. Eventually I got the dual Qnix's to run on my XFX Radeon 7950 again. But then I had the idea lets trying hooking up the 2nd one to onboard video again (Intel 4770k and Asrock Z87E-ITX). And just like that it works and doesn't look so bad. No weird screen issues like the first time I tried to do this. And I am thinking the fix eventually was screwing in the cables really tight into the monitors. I wouldn't run a single display using onboard only, but this serves its purpose as my second monitor to throw things onto. Now to see where I can get with an overclock running this frankenstein setup that supposedly won't work.

Summary
Main Qnix - XFX 7950 - 60Hz for now
2nd Qnix - onboard DVI - 35Hz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> So, I am really disappointed with storewithstory.
> 
> I bought a [Perfect Pixel] 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor on March 23rd and it has been four days now with the monitor being tested.
> 
> I messaged the ebay seller yesterday and got a response said it was being tested. I understand one day delay for testing, two days is rather crappy, but three days? That is utter garbage, especially when this is a monitor that can be tested in five minutes.
> 
> Tomorrow I will message again asking whats up, especially considering the "Domestic handling time" says "Will usually ship within 2 business days of receiving cleared payment".


some people have had to wait for over 2 weeks, from other sellers.
So don't worry too much if it takes an extra day or two, to get a perfect pixel one


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> some people have had to wait for over 2 weeks, from other sellers.
> So don't worry too much if it takes an extra day or two, to get a perfect pixel one


I've sent a snotty email to ta.Korean this morning wanting to know when mine is going to be Shipped.

Will be 10 days tomorrow and still not shipped yet - I'm loosing patients with this whole Korean monitor thing - this is 2 sellers I've had that seem to be taking forever.

I have told them that if its not shipped by Monday I will be cancelling - hope that doesn't get me a bad monitor though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> I've sent a snotty email to ta.Korean this morning wanting to know when mine is going to be Shipped.
> 
> Will be 10 days tomorrow and still not shipped yet - I'm loosing patients with this whole Korean monitor thing - this is 2 sellers I've had that seem to be taking forever.
> 
> I have told them that if its not shipped by Monday I will be cancelling - hope that doesn't get me a bad monitor though.


storewithstory, shipped mine and I received it at my doorstep within 5-6days.


----------



## djdynamite123

Anyone have an example of how much more world you see with 1440p on the 27" compared to a 1080p 24"


----------



## bcham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Got my refund for the deffective qnix and bought a glossy monex from storewithstory. Hope i get it soon and without issue...


i got my monex from storewithstory.arrived in 3 days ,nice monitor but does not overclock.


----------



## htapocysp

So far ebay doesn't say mine has shipped. Hopefully they shipped it and just didn't update the order.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcham*
> 
> i got my monex from storewithstory.arrived in 3 days ,nice monitor but does not overclock.


oh? Didn't OC? Normal version or true10?


----------



## hogofwar

Another day, no refund, no messages.

has ta.korea.global just decided to ignore me?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Another day, no refund, no messages.
> 
> has ta.korea.global just decided to ignore me?


have you filed out a claim or not via eBay?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> have you filed out a claim or not via eBay?


I haven't, I thought I had to wait 8 days since I asked for a refund?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I haven't, I thought I had to wait 8 days since I asked for a refund?


nop, if you want a refund, you open a case. Normally this isn't the first course of action to take with sellers that will and have communicated well with you, but you and I both know that's not the case with these sellers, especially not ta Korea....open a eBay case...you'll get their attention at least.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> oh? Didn't OC? Normal version or true10?


The Monex's don't overclock.


----------



## nerdy1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> So, I am really disappointed with storewithstory.
> 
> I bought a [Perfect Pixel] 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor on March 23rd and it has been four days now with the monitor being tested.
> 
> I messaged the ebay seller yesterday and got a response said it was being tested. I understand one day delay for testing, two days is rather crappy, but three days? That is utter garbage, especially when this is a monitor that can be tested in five minutes.
> 
> Tomorrow I will message again asking whats up, especially considering the "Domestic handling time" says "Will usually ship within 2 business days of receiving cleared payment".


I bought the same monitor from bizaroo and the monitor died after 3 days of use. I had to ship mine back and I am waiting on the replacement.


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Anyone have an example of how much more world you see with 1440p on the 27" compared to a 1080p 24"


lol how much more world youll see...do you mean like FOV?? that depends on the game etc....as far as more ppi?? its like 20% roughly and well 24 inches is smaller than 27 inches so you get the idea....

so simple answer is yes it shows more world









also for those who are getting slow shipping etc......these monitors have gone through the roof in popularity over the last 6 months to a year literally...my guess is stoick is on the low side...you guys need to member these are put together and are turned away panels by the manufacturer...they don't always get good ones that have little to no issues....sometimes they get bad batches etc....

also my guess is they make the attempt to not send you the worst one possible...sending them emails everyday and saying youll cancel if its not shpped right now is lame...if you did that to me id send you a bad one lol sry.....but your not buying from Samsung or dell...

you also havto member most of the sellers prly sell to storefronts in korea as well.....


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> I've sent a snotty email to ta.Korean this morning wanting to know when mine is going to be Shipped.
> 
> Will be 10 days tomorrow and still not shipped yet - I'm loosing patients with this whole Korean monitor thing - this is 2 sellers I've had that seem to be taking forever.
> 
> I have told them that if its not shipped by Monday I will be cancelling - hope that doesn't get me a bad monitor though.


I wouldn't worry too much if I where you.......I bought a perfect pixel qnix from ta.korea took around 20 days to get it but was sure worth it.

Takes patience if you are in a hurry to get your monitor I think you shouldn't go the Korean route. It's true that a lot of people got theirs in just a few business days.....but if you read most sellers shipping time it's usually above 15 days


----------



## Chowchilla

Just like you @Totally Dubbed mine got Here in 2 days and is now at the local depot awaiting receipt of payment.. Which I paid this morning. Joys.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> oh? Didn't OC? Normal version or true10?


He said Monex, they do not overclock.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

So I just purchased this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191045112931

Should I have gotten the True10 version instead? Looks like it has more features and better MS (4).


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> So I just purchased this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/191045112931
> 
> Should I have gotten the True10 version instead? Looks like it has more features and better MS (4).


The True 10 do not overclock, so if you want to run at stock hz, might be a better choice.


----------



## hogofwar

Opened an ebay case, hopefully I get a response soon.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Just like you @Totally Dubbed mine got Here in 2 days and is now at the local depot awaiting receipt of payment.. Which I paid this morning. Joys.


sweet man!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> He said Monex, they do not overclock.


Didn't see, sorry bro
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The True 10 do not overclock, so if you want to run at stock hz, might be a better choice.


It has input lag too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Opened an ebay case, hopefully I get a response soon.


let us know what happens.

Btw, anyone know how you enter your purchase information in the OP, can't see the form...


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> sweet man!
> Didn't see, sorry bro
> It has input lag too.
> let us know what happens.
> 
> Btw, anyone know how you enter your purchase information in the OP, can't see the form...


Snap out of it slacker.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> sweet man!
> Didn't see, sorry bro
> It has input lag too.
> let us know what happens.
> 
> Btw, anyone know how you enter your purchase information in the OP, can't see the form...


You sure? They are listed as being able to.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> You sure? They are listed as being able to.


yup, the listing is wrong, correct sellers, like red cap took down their listings.
Digitalforce (ocn member) showed us it doesn't do over 60hz, and commented on the input lag too. That said, still value for money faux, 10bit 1440p multiple input monitors


----------



## chaoscontrol

Hi Guys,

Mine OC's really well, was a long wait but TA-Korea did it.







No dead/stuck pixels and the BLB isnt anything special.

I tried OC to 120Hz using these settings:



But I got a lot of green artifacts. 110Hz was better but after some gaming (CS:go) I got some artifacts localized to 1 band on the screen (top right to down).

100Hz is no problem and I suspect someone will be able to give me the correct timings for 110Hz+ (Im looking at you Lawson







)

Really really really love this with my r9 290!!!! Gaming on a new level


----------



## BigBobBobson

So ta.korea.global _finally_ refunded me after some stringent emails. My monitor from storewithstory is also with DHL now. Only £24 customs (I asked him to mark as gift at £100) so I'm absolutely chuffed since customs was my biggest worry.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBobBobson*
> 
> So ta.korea.global _finally_ refunded me after some stringent emails. My monitor from storewithstory is also with DHL now. Only £24 customs (I asked him to mark as gift at £100) so I'm absolutely chuffed since customs was my biggest worry.


it's so interesting. You paid £24, I paid £16 with dhl, then for the monitor that never arrived, fedex wanted £22.
It's funny how there's no universal figure lol


----------



## BigBobBobson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> it's so interesting. You paid £24, I paid £16 with dhl, then for the monitor that never arrived, fedex wanted £22.
> It's funny how there's no universal figure lol


Yeah that's why I was terrified waiting for the invoice. It seems customs literally just makes it up. Their customs costs chart is evidently a dartboard.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> it's so interesting. You paid £24, I paid £16 with dhl, then for the monitor that never arrived, fedex wanted £22.
> It's funny how there's no universal figure lol


I paid my fees this morning and it still says "Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment" is this what happened to you? also, if you dont mind, can you tell me when yours was dispatched and when it arrived? im working tomorrow morning... dont want to miss it if possible.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigBobBobson*
> 
> Yeah that's why I was terrified waiting for the invoice. It seems customs literally just makes it up. Their customs costs chart is evidently a dartboard.


haha can you imagine if that was true







?


----------



## Tmplt

I've been having some problems with my Qnix-monitor when having it clocked to 96/110hz. I get some minor to slightly more annoying horizontal scan-lines(?). They have the same colour as the background they should display but they become a bit.. I don't really know how to explain it better. There is however nothing wrong with the rest of the screen. Only the top-right. I've tried to reinstall and repatch the Radeon drivers but without success.

Does anybody have any idea what causes this and how (and if) to fix it? Could it possibly be something with the automatically chosen clock speed on things through CRU? I have however opened the screen to fix some BLB, could it possibly be that a cord is loose? To add to that, the flickering/scan-lining is minor at sometimes but will at other times be more, as said, annoying. It also seems like it decreases when the monitor is laying down, instead of standing up.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> I paid my fees this morning and it still says "Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment" is this what happened to you? also, if you dont mind, can you tell me when yours was dispatched and when it arrived? im working tomorrow morning... dont want to miss it if possible.


one to two days to arrive. You can track it, and they'll send you a text anyway, so you can redeliver, like I did


----------



## iCrap

Bought my monex last night and it's already in the U.S. Funny how it's faster than most US shipments.


----------



## djdynamite123

Bought a Qnix ultimate no pixel, lets hope all is fine once received. Be the perfect addition to my new Gaming Media system, just in need to buy my racing setup now!


----------



## coelacanth

I hadn't been to this thread in a while before yesterday. I saw a lot of posts where people state they hook their monitors up and OC to 120Hz through the NVCP without the patcher.

Did Nvidia get rid of the dual link 330MHz pixel clock cap in their recent drivers?

Can someone who used the no patcher method post a photo from the frame skipping test showing 96Hz or 120Hz?


----------



## Clexzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I hadn't been to this thread in a while before yesterday. I saw a lot of posts where people state they hook their monitors up and OC to 120Hz through the NVCP without the patcher.
> 
> Did Nvidia get rid of the dual link 330MHz pixel clock cap in their recent drivers?
> 
> Can someone who used the no patcher method post a photo from the frame skipping test showing 96Hz or 120Hz?


I haven't been here in awhile ietehr but...ive been using the patcher and cru still and just slecting the HZ OC in NVidia control panel...I don't user NVidia custom thing...

imo it doersnt work if u don't patch it correctly I use sli btw and 110hz...


----------



## Optimus1978

All,

I see a few of you have been waiting a long time for ta-korea deliveries, can you let me know how long?

Mines 10 days since ordering and still not shipped, but I get the feeling some of you have been waiting longer? but with good results?

Thanks


----------



## djdynamite123

So what is the average looking bad light bleed on these as default?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clexzor*
> 
> I haven't been here in awhile ietehr but...ive been using the patcher and cru still and just slecting the HZ OC in NVidia control panel...I don't user NVidia custom thing...
> 
> imo it doersnt work if u don't patch it correctly I use sli btw and 110hz...


I went from the full patcher (I have SLI) + CRU method to using the full patcher + NVCP method since CRU was causing problems with GeForce Experience.

As far as I was aware you still need the patcher to overcome the 330MHz pixel clock (single card) limit but there are a lot of "I'm at 120Hz with no patch" posts now.


----------



## Roland2

Here are two pictures, one 96Hz one 120Hz showing no frame skipping. This is none SLI, no patches or special drivers, just NVCP.




PS:780 TI GPU


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Here are two pictures, one 96Hz one 120Hz showing no frame skipping. This is none SLI, no patches or special drivers, just NVCP.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS:780 TI GPU


Thank you, +rep!


----------



## Roland2

Just for arguments sake, here is a picture at 120Hz WITH SLI'd 780 TI's, no patches, just using NVCP:


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I hadn't been to this thread in a while before yesterday. I saw a lot of posts where people state they hook their monitors up and OC to 120Hz through the NVCP without the patcher.
> 
> Did Nvidia get rid of the dual link 330MHz pixel clock cap in their recent drivers?
> 
> Can someone who used the no patcher method post a photo from the frame skipping test showing 96Hz or 120Hz?


They got rid of the 330 MHz limit in 313.95, but only if you're using the NVIDIA control panel to add custom resolutions. EDID overrides are still affected by the 330 MHz limit, hence the need to patch the driver if you're using CRU.

NVIDIA's driver has other limits though. 400/500-series cards have a 400 MHz limit that requires the full patch to get around even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel. Since 313.95, some 500-series cards are no longer affected by this limit and don't need the full patch, but I'm not sure which cards are still affected.

SLI has a 400 MHz limit with all driver versions. Titan and GTX 780 cards are not affected by the limit and don't need the patch for SLI. All other cards require the full patch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I went from the full patcher (I have SLI) + CRU method to using the full patcher + NVCP method since CRU was causing problems with GeForce Experience.
> 
> As far as I was aware you still need the patcher to overcome the 330MHz pixel clock (single card) limit but there are a lot of "I'm at 120Hz with no patch" posts now.


If you're using the NVIDIA control panel and you have GTX 780 cards, you don't need the patch at all.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yay my second 680 works! Will be testing it further then going SLI ermaaagaaaad


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> They got rid of the 330 MHz limit in 313.95, but only if you're using the NVIDIA control panel to add custom resolutions. EDID overrides are still affected by the 330 MHz limit, hence the need to patch the driver if you're using CRU.
> 
> NVIDIA's driver has other limits though. 400/500-series cards have a 400 MHz limit that requires the full patch to get around even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel. Since 313.95, some 500-series cards are no longer affected by this limit and don't need the full patch, but I'm not sure which cards are still affected.
> 
> SLI has a 400 MHz limit with all driver versions. Titan and GTX 780 cards are not affected by the limit and don't need the patch for SLI. All other cards require the full patch.
> If you're using the NVIDIA control panel and you have GTX 780 cards, you don't need the patch at all.


Exactly the info I was looking for. Thank you very much, and thank you for the patchers and CRU! +rep.

This should go in the OP.


----------



## Eagle1337

Welp -.- looks like I'm joining the club.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yay my second 680 works! Will be testing it further then going SLI ermaaagaaaad


Glad to hear it! SLI is awesome. You're going to need the full patcher now.


----------



## Rhaxas

Nevermind i Fixed the issue it seems.


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Just submitted a $280 offer to storewithstory for a QNIX non-se Matte. His BiN is currently $319.98
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/221356410499
> 
> Fingers crossed.


lol... he countered offered me @ a whopping discount of $4.98 ($315). Yeahhhhhh, no thanks. Guess I'll just wait till the market is flooded again and these are back down to the $270 range.


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Just submitted a $280 offer to storewithstory for a QNIX non-se Matte. His BiN is currently $319.98
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/221356410499
> 
> Fingers crossed.
> 
> 
> 
> lol... he countered offered me @ a whopping discount of $4.98 ($315). Yeahhhhhh, no thanks. Guess I'll just wait till the market is flooded again and these are back down to the $270 range.
Click to expand...

He offered me $345 on the ultimate pixel version. Should I do it?

Sent from my One using Tapatalk


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> He offered me $345 on the ultimate pixel version. Should I do it?
> 
> Sent from my One using Tapatalk


Tell him yes, but only if he actually checks the monitor instead of simply slapping a sticker on it


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> He offered me $345 on the ultimate pixel version. Should I do it?
> 
> Sent from my One using Tapatalk


He has accepted $330 for it before.


----------



## larrytek7

So I bought a X-Star DP2710 (D-DVI only) about two months ago. I also just bought a QNIX QX2710 (Multi Port) yesterday. I'm noticing the QNIX is a little brighter and the whites are much whiter than the X-Star. This is with the brightness turned all the way up on both and the contrast all the way up on the QNIX. Also, the whites on the X-Star are not as crisp and almost have a slight off white yellow look to it.

Any suggestions on getting these two monitors to match. I tried the asus-pb278q color profile on both monitors and that helped a bit but not exactly am exact match.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> All,
> 
> I see a few of you have been waiting a long time for ta-korea deliveries, can you let me know how long?
> 
> Mines 10 days since ordering and still not shipped, but I get the feeling some of you have been waiting longer? but with good results?
> 
> Thanks


I ordered mine from Ta-korea global on the 10th for $325 and it showed up on the 25th. Ebay's estimated shipping time stated anywhere between the 14th and the 25th. Once the item shipped, it got to me in the US in only 4 days counting the weekend. The monitor was exactly as I ordered, single input. No unusually dark or bright spots, some minor BLB in one of the lower corner sections which is what I expected to be a bit of.

The only issue I could find with is with the central lower bezel which bows out quit a bit and i can see the edges of the actual panel though the gap. I can slide a couple sheets of paper in the gap. This is not big deal and it seems like a easy fix just by bending it a bit which will involve taking off the bezel. Another annoyance is the colour, the blues seem a little off (especially on OCN) and some colours seem to be over saturated. I seen a bunch of ICC profiles that Lawson posted and will give those a go. i have been using around 5-7 clicks up on the brightness which is good enough for me.

As for overclocking, I have only gotten to 96hz so far which is holding up pretty well OC'd though the Nvidia control panel using the full patch with my 570GTX. It does not show skipping frames and a few games that I have tested so far see the 96hz refresh rate. i will be trying to take this further in the days to come. Overall, I am pretty happy with my purchase. Below are a few pictures I took.

Here's what I have been dealing with for the past month with my old monitor. I confirmed that there are cheap Taiwanese caps that's causing the problems especially the power on issues I have been having for the past year. This will be a rainy day re-capping project with high quality Japanese caps.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





1440p Qnix 27" and my ASUS VK266h 1200p 25.5"


The gap in the bezel



The Minor BLB..... Not sure what could be causing this but I am sure it's not the bezel since I can push on it a bit due to the flex in the center of it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> So I bought a X-Star DP2710 (D-DVI only) about two months ago. I also just bought a QNIX QX2710 (Multi Port) yesterday. I'm noticing the QNIX is a little brighter and the whites are much whiter than the X-Star. This is with the brightness turned all the way up on both and the contrast all the way up on the QNIX. Also, the whites on the X-Star are not as crisp and almost have a slight off white yellow look to it.
> 
> Any suggestions on getting these two monitors to match. I tried the asus-pb278q color profile on both monitors and that helped a bit but not exactly am exact match.


To get them to really match you will need a colorimeter. But feel free to try out the profiles available first.


----------



## larrytek7

yasamoka,

Thanks for your reply. I'm a newb when it comes to calibrating but since the QNIX has an OSD shouldn't I at least try and manually set it to the same default color settings as they X-Star (no OSD) at 100% brightness? If so do you know where I can get the default RGB and Contrast info for the X-Star?


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> yasamoka,
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I'm a newb when it comes to calibrating but since the QNIX has an OSD shouldn't I at least try and manually set it to the same default color settings as they X-Star (no OSD) at 100% brightness? If so do you know where I can get the default RGB and Contrast info for the X-Star?


If you are in the US you can rent a colorimeter. The colormunki is available for rent for around $40


----------



## xvigorx

Greetings!

New to the forum. Just purchased a QNIX Qx2710 LED EvolutionII2 27" Samsung PLS WQHD Monitor from ebay (usr:green-sum) $289.90

Should be getting it delivered on April 2nd! Super excited and can't wait to see the quality on this beast. Hope to learn a lot from the forum!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvigorx*
> 
> Greetings!
> 
> New to the forum. Just purchased a QNIX Qx2710 LED EvolutionII2 27" Samsung PLS WQHD Monitor from ebay (usr:green-sum) $289.90
> 
> Should be getting it delivered on April 2nd! Super excited and can't wait to see the quality on this beast. Hope to learn a lot from the forum!


$289 thats low hope you didnt order the SE or a tempered glass


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> $289 thats low hope you didnt order the SE or a tempered glass


What's wrong with the SE model?


----------



## xvigorx

To be exact:
"New QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ2 27" Samsung PLS WQHD Monitor *Tempered Glass"


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> What's wrong with the SE model?


Many reports of poor quality.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvigorx*
> 
> To be exact:
> "New QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ2 27" Samsung PLS WQHD Monitor *Tempered Glass"


I called it, heh, the tempered glass suffers from poor blacks, just a heads up.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Many reports of poor quality.


Ahh, well I purchased my SE model for 289 and it's dang near perfect. Very little bbl and I have yet to see a dead or stuck pixel.


----------



## xvigorx

Thanks for the heads up, I mite as well try it out first, since it is almost shipped to me by now.

Is the SE version the same thing as Tempered Glass*?


----------



## Agent_kenshin

From my understanding, the SE's just have a higher dead pixel number to be considered defective which is 5 versus the 2-3 for a regular qnix. I think the SE's are just B quality panels, Also have seen some users report some strange horizontal back light bleed lines on these SE's which helped make my decision on not to get a SE.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvigorx*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up, I mite as well try it out first, since it is almost shipped to me by now.
> 
> Is the SE version the same thing as Tempered Glass*?


The tempered glass have a piece of glass over the matte screen. Its the reason the blacks look more grey.


----------



## xvigorx

I feel like at this point it might already be too late for the seller to replace my order with the Matte* version, since I just received a tracking number, but it has no information attached to it.... I am hoping I personally won't notice much of a difference, considering i've been using an old sony lcd monitor that is over 10 years old.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xvigorx*
> 
> I feel like at this point it might already be too late for the seller to replace my order with the Matte* version, since I just received a tracking number, but it has no information attached to it.... I am hoping I personally won't notice much of a difference, considering i've been using an old sony lcd monitor that is over 10 years old.


You might be happy with it, only way to tell is to use it for yourself.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I have a question, I love my qnix evo 2. I have had it since maybe last august. My question would be why are people buying these now, with decent (reasonably cheap) 4k monitors coming in about 6 months? I would just wait.... in fact I am waiting for a 27" IPS/PLS 4K @ 60hz for <700


----------



## jameyscott

Because people may not have the money to spend or just don't want to spend that much on a monitor. Not to mention having the graphical horsepower needed for 4k isn't exactly menial.

Perosnally, I bought one of these because at 290, it was perfect for my secondary set up that I mainly use for photo and video editing.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Because people may not have the money to spend or just don't want to spend that much on a monitor. Not to mention having the graphical horsepower needed for 4k isn't exactly menial.
> 
> Perosnally, I bought one of these because at 290, it was perfect for my secondary set up that I mainly use for photo and video editing.


That, and the fact that the single inputs ones overclock. 96Hz on an 27" IPS is nice.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> That, and the fact that the single inputs ones overclock. 96Hz on an 27" IPS is nice.


Unfortunately they don't overclock on 290/x for a lot of people. I used to be able to overclock when I had xfire 7950's... I get crazy distortion if I overclock on my 290x xfire.

I have to pick between ocing the monitor, or the video cards


----------



## dragosjurca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I hadn't been to this thread in a while before yesterday. I saw a lot of posts where people state they hook their monitors up and OC to 120Hz through the NVCP without the patcher.
> 
> Did Nvidia get rid of the dual link 330MHz pixel clock cap in their recent drivers?
> 
> Can someone who used the no patcher method post a photo from the frame skipping test showing 96Hz or 120Hz?


Look here, only NVCP using on a 780 Ti (latest drivers installed).


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Unfortunately they don't overclock on 290/x for a lot of people. I used to be able to overclock when I had xfire 7950's... I get crazy distortion if I overclock on my 290x xfire.
> 
> I have to pick between ocing the monitor, or the video cards


I must be lucky then, mine overclocks right on up to 120hz with my xfired 290x's


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragosjurca*
> 
> Look here, only NVCP using on a 780 Ti (latest drivers installed).


That picture doesn't really show anything. The valid means the sync is valid, but you need to see the boxes to know if it is actually overclocked and not skipping frames.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> That picture doesn't really show anything. The valid means the sync is valid, but you need to see the boxes to know if it is actually overclocked and not skipping frames.


He's showing that the custom resolution set via NvCP is working, not whether the monitor is frameskipping or not. In that case, a screenshot is enough.


----------



## Optimus1978

Well - my monitor has shipped from ta-Korea ; apparently yesterday but EMS tracking hasn't updated yet.

So fingers crossed will be here next week!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> yasamoka,
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I'm a newb when it comes to calibrating but since the QNIX has an OSD shouldn't I at least try and manually set it to the same default color settings as they X-Star (no OSD) at 100% brightness? If so do you know where I can get the default RGB and Contrast info for the X-Star?


There are no defaults with an OSD-less monitor. Panels vary between the same monitor model, this is expected. The colorimeter helps you start by getting the same whitepoint on both via first setting the RGB channels to suitable positions, then making a color profile that the PC loads at the graphics cards side to correct the rest. Both the Qnix and the X-Star get calibrated to a reference point but before you start, the colorimeter would have helped you adjust the RGB sliders on the Qnix to get an accurate white. With the X-Star you will have to resort exclusively to a software color profile, as do all single-input Qnix / X-Star users.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> If you are in the US you can rent a colorimeter. The colormunki is available for rent for around $40


That would be PERFECT for you, larrytek7. We'll help you get good profiles and then you can return the Colormunki.

@snapdragon, I'm hoping it's the Colormunki Display? Because that's an excellent sensor.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> yasamoka,
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I'm a newb when it comes to calibrating but since the QNIX has an OSD shouldn't I at least try and manually set it to the same default color settings as they X-Star (no OSD) at 100% brightness? If so do you know where I can get the default RGB and Contrast info for the X-Star?
> 
> 
> 
> There are no defaults with an OSD-less monitor. Panels vary between the same monitor model, this is expected. The colorimeter helps you start by getting the same whitepoint on both via first setting the RGB channels to suitable positions, then making a color profile that the PC loads at the graphics cards side to correct the rest. Both the Qnix and the X-Star get calibrated to a reference point but before you start, the colorimeter would have helped you adjust the RGB sliders on the Qnix to get an accurate white. With the X-Star you will have to resort exclusively to a software color profile, as do all single-input Qnix / X-Star users.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> If you are in the US you can rent a colorimeter. The colormunki is available for rent for around $40
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That would be PERFECT for you, larrytek7. We'll help you get good profiles and then you can return the Colormunki.
> 
> @snapdragon, I'm hoping it's the Colormunki Display? Because that's an excellent sensor.
Click to expand...

Anyone know of an equivalent scheme in the UK?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronalddus

Has someone bought this and can confirm it is a real glossy one? Or confirm it is just a matte panel with glass?

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-GLOSSY/dp/B00CAKEE1E/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395994308&sr=1-6&keywords=qnix+qx2710

Thanks


----------



## Chowchilla

Mine still says "Shipment held - Available upon receipt of payment" despite paying yesterday at 9am.

Package is on its way. Now.. Can I get home in time..

Home in time.. now the wait begins..


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Well - my monitor has shipped from ta-Korea ; apparently yesterday but EMS tracking hasn't updated yet.
> 
> So fingers crossed will be here next week!!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interesting, posted yesterday, but tracking says collected this morning ....never mind at least its on its way.


----------



## Stylook

Hi,

Does anyone use and overclock the Qnix QX2710 SE? If yes,

1) Do you use the normal patch and cru?

2) Could it reach 120hz as stated?

Would like to consider it. Since it says overclock to 120hz.

Thank you.


----------



## wisecrack

Just got mine awesome monitor I am more than happy with it


----------



## Tom114

Is the true10 a good option if I don't really care about overclocking but do want a multi-input version? At the moment I have a QX2710 but I really hate not being able to connect anything other than my pc.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Unfortunately they don't overclock on 290/x for a lot of people. I used to be able to overclock when I had xfire 7950's... I get crazy distortion if I overclock on my 290x xfire.
> 
> I have to pick between ocing the monitor, or the video cards


I have x2 AMD R9 290 cards in crossfire and my monitor hits 120hz as it did before with my x2 Nvidia Asus GTX660 cards.


----------



## Chowchilla

Mine has arrived. Pretty impressive shipping as it only set off on Monday.


t only set off on Monday.


----------



## djdynamite123

Did you pay any customs Chowchilla... how much? Did you get the ultimate pixel? let us know the quality of the screen with any bleed etc. I bought mine yesterday.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Did you pay any customs Chowchilla... how much? Did you get the ultimate pixel? let us know the quality of the screen with any bleed etc. I bought mine yesterday.


If he has just had his monitor delivered today i very much doubt he has had his custom import duty bill yet as its not the delivery drivers responsibility to collect Import duty!...he will most likely get his bill the same as myself in the form of a letter about 1 week from now!...I paid a £35 customs bill to FED-EX as this is what FED-EX had to pay customs to release my monitor so that they could deliver it!....i also asked my seller to mark it down as $200 instead of £200 to lower the import duty


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wisecrack*
> 
> Just got mine awesome monitor I am more than happy with it


Which one is that? I'm not familiar with that bezel. No name brand logo???


----------



## wisecrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Which one is that? I'm not familiar with that bezel. No name brand logo???


X-star painted matte black and stand removed.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wisecrack*
> 
> X-star painted matte black and stand removed.


It floats, man I should of bought one that floats.


----------



## wisecrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> It floats, man I should of bought one that floats.


rofl it sure does begone wobbly stand


----------



## hogofwar

Ta.korea.global is still trying to ship it when I have requested a refund about 5 times now.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Did you pay any customs Chowchilla... how much? Did you get the ultimate pixel? let us know the quality of the screen with any bleed etc. I bought mine yesterday.


Ultimate perfect pixel from StorewithStory. shipped via DHL, import duties paid yesterday, same as @Totally Dubbed

no dead pixels and i cant see any blacklight bleed at all. Running at 96hz atm though it runs fine at 110 as well. 120 results in a green mess.


----------



## taiketsue

Received my qnix qx2710 from dream-seller. No dead pixels or blb as far as i can tell.

Although the bezel and panel at the bottom are kinda seperated making the panel move. Any tips on how to fix this?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taiketsue*
> 
> Received my qnix qx2710 from dream-seller. No dead pixels or blb as far as i can tell.
> 
> Although the bezel and panel at the bottom are kinda seperated making the panel move. Any tips on how to fix this?


I believe you should look up panel play in the OP.


----------



## taiketsue

My bad didn't even notice that part thanks for the help.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Ultimate perfect pixel from StorewithStory. shipped via DHL, import duties paid yesterday, same as @Totally Dubbed
> 
> no dead pixels and i cant see any blacklight bleed at all. Running at 96hz atm though it runs fine at 110 as well. 120 results in a green mess.


so essentially we have the same monitor from the same seller!
I'm having issues with sli, it doesn't seem to want to run....


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> so essentially we have the same monitor from the same seller!
> I'm having issues with sli, it doesn't seem to want to run....


What do you mean by it doesn't want to run? I do have issues with SLI running COD ghosts, I get a fatal error every time at a certain point on the final train mission. If I disable SLI, it doesn't crash. Not 100% sure if the error below is my exact one, I copied it from another forum, its similar if not exact.

Direct3D Device: Present failed (DEVICE REMOVED): DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_HUNG (-2005270523)


----------



## htapocysp

My qnix evo 2 ultimate Just shipped from Storewithstory. I think they forgot because i asked them it had shipped yet, then an hour later it shipped.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> What do you mean by it doesn't want to run? I do have issues with SLI running COD ghosts, I get a fatal error every time at a certain point on the final train mission. If I disable SLI, it doesn't crash. Not 100% sure if the error below is my exact one, I copied it from another forum, its similar if not exact.
> 
> Direct3D Device: Present failed (DEVICE REMOVED): DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_HUNG (-2005270523)


http://www.overclock.net/t/1477389/need-some-help-with-a-quick-sli-issue


----------



## Chowchilla

the only fault i can find is that the whites are too white they hurt my eyes. solved that with a few clicks and a colour profile.

out of curiosity, what difference, if any, would this cable make over the supplied one? for reaching 120hz.


----------



## larrytek7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> There are no defaults with an OSD-less monitor. Panels vary between the same monitor model, this is expected. The colorimeter helps you start by getting the same whitepoint on both via first setting the RGB channels to suitable positions, then making a color profile that the PC loads at the graphics cards side to correct the rest. Both the Qnix and the X-Star get calibrated to a reference point but before you start, the colorimeter would have helped you adjust the RGB sliders on the Qnix to get an accurate white. With the X-Star you will have to resort exclusively to a software color profile, as do all single-input Qnix / X-Star users.
> That would be PERFECT for you, larrytek7. We'll help you get good profiles and then you can return the Colormunki.
> 
> @snapdragon, I'm hoping it's the Colormunki Display? Because that's an excellent sensor.


Thanks for your reply. I'm not quite hardcore enough to rent calibrating equipment. Besides I've already spent close to $1,000 between the two monitors a dual link dvi kvm and two dual link display adapters for my Macbook Pro. I basically adjusted the QNIX to match the X-Star manually the best I could and loaded the Asus PB278Q icc file. I'm happy with the way this looks. BTW, the muli port QNIX does not overclock very well. I couldn't even get 96hz so I'll be using the X-Star (OC to 96hz) as my main display for games and movies.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I'm not quite hardcore enough to rent calibrating equipment. Besides I've already spent close to $1,000 between the two monitors a dual link dvi kvm and two dual link display adapters for my Macbook Pro. I basically adjusted the QNIX to match the X-Star manually the best I could and loaded the Asus PB278Q icc file. I'm happy with the way this looks. BTW, the muli port QNIX does not overclock very well. I couldn't even get 96hz so I'll be using the X-Star (OC to 96hz) as my main display for games and movies.


The multi port will also skip frames overclocking, so don't even bother.


----------



## larrytek7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The multi port will also skip frames overclocking, so don't even bother.


The QNIX is supposed to be a True10 version with 4ms response time but since I can't overclock it do you think I'll be better of using my X-Star (OC to 96hz) for gaming instead? I believe the X-Star response time is 8ms.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I'm not quite hardcore enough to rent calibrating equipment. Besides I've already spent close to $1,000 between the two monitors a dual link dvi kvm and two dual link display adapters for my Macbook Pro. I basically adjusted the QNIX to match the X-Star manually the best I could and loaded the Asus PB278Q icc file. I'm happy with the way this looks. BTW, the muli port QNIX does not overclock very well. I couldn't even get 96hz so I'll be using the X-Star (OC to 96hz) as my main display for games and movies.


Don't bother overclocking the multi-input, it skips frames to reach 60 back again.

Ignore the stated response times as well. The X-Star at 96Hz will stomp the Qnix True10 (60Hz) for gaming.


----------



## larrytek7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Don't bother overclocking the multi-input, it skips frames to reach 60 back again.
> 
> Ignore the stated response times as well. The X-Star at 96Hz will stomp the Qnix True10 (60Hz) for gaming.


I'm almost tempted to sell my X-Star and get a QNIX True10 D-DVI only, this will give me a 4ms response time display that I'm assuming I'll be able to overclock to at least 96Hz. Think it's worth the difference in response time?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> I'm almost tempted to sell my X-Star and get a QNIX True10 D-DVI only, this will give me a 4ms response time display that I'm assuming I'll be able to overclock to at least 96Hz. Think it's worth the difference in response time?


There's no such thing as a Qnix True 10 DVI only.

The True 10's are multi-input and have significantly more input lag which makes that better response time worthless.

When they're OC'd they frameskip, which makes overclocking worthless.


----------



## larrytek7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> There's no such thing as a Qnix True 10 DVI only.
> 
> The True 10's are multi-input and have significantly more input lag which makes that better response time worthless.
> 
> When they're OC'd they frameskip, which makes overclocking worthless.


Thanks for the heads up. I guess I'll be sticking with my X-Star @ 96Hz.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I guess I'll be sticking with my X-Star @ 96Hz.


X-Star at 96hz is the same as my Qnix at 96hz, so just enjoy it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> I'm almost tempted to sell my X-Star and get a QNIX True10 D-DVI only, this will give me a 4ms response time display that I'm assuming I'll be able to overclock to at least 96Hz. Think it's worth the difference in response time?


There is no 4ms response time IPS display. The stated response times are not accurate.


----------



## Chowchilla

Heres my QNIX in total darkness. Not bad at all.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Heres my QNIX in total darkness. Not bad at all.


Looks the opposite of mine (where the "bleeding comes from that is") - excellent mate!


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taiketsue*
> 
> Received my qnix qx2710 from dream-seller. No dead pixels or blb as far as i can tell.
> 
> Although the bezel and panel at the bottom are kinda seperated making the panel move. Any tips on how to fix this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taiketsue*
> 
> Received my qnix qx2710 from dream-seller. No dead pixels or blb as far as i can tell.
> 
> Although the bezel and panel at the bottom are kinda seperated making the panel move. Any tips on how to fix this?


Mine does this too and my bezel is actually bowed out towards the front which I have found from other posts to be a normal occurrence with these monitors. I might be able to bend my back.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Heres my QNIX in total darkness. Not bad at all.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very nice. I am actually going to open mine up to fix the bad bleed in one of my front corners using the tape mod. I seen a video on how to do it and is it correct if I put the tape all around the metal part of frame or just put it where it needs to be?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> If I put the tape all around the metal part of frame or just put it where it needs to be?


I've fixed 2 Qnix's. didn't use tape to fix either one. Straightening out the silver, metal frame is the most important part. I placed the frame on the floor once I took the panel out to see where it was bent. Be careful when bending the frame around the screw holes since they can break.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> I've fixed 2 Qnix's. didn't use tape to fix either one. Straightening out the silver, metal frame is the most important part. I placed the frame on the floor once I took the panel out to see where it was bent. Be careful when bending the frame around the screw holes since they can break.


Thanks I will look for any frame bending


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Thanks I will look for any frame bending


Yep you don't need any tape to fix the BLB with these monitors!... BLB with these monitors is mostly down to the panel sitting in bent frame!...the link below has a few posts on it from myself explaining how i 100% fixed my bad BLB without using any tape at all!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## Tmplt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep you don't need any tape to fix the BLB with these monitors!... BLB with these monitors is mostly down to the panel sitting in bent frame!...the link below has a few posts on it from myself explaining how i 100% fixed my bad BLB without using any tape at all!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


Thank you, will follow those videos tomorrow. I also thank you for the colour scheme you shared!

On the other side.. is anyone else experiencing flickering anywhere on the screen? When I have mine clocked to 96hz a 1/16 of the screen is flickering, only in the top right corner. Much more noticeable on an OC of 110hz. Is there a way to fix this? Is it simply a pressure-issue, like BLB?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep you don't need any tape to fix the BLB with these monitors!... BLB with these monitors is mostly down to the panel sitting in bent frame!...the link below has a few posts on it from myself explaining how i 100% fixed my bad BLB without using any tape at all!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


What's with those 2 giant white spots ?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> What's with those 2 giant white spots ?


That was the original BLB in the top picture coursed from my frame being bent which creates lose areas where the light could escape onto the front of the screen as opposed to behind it...Ruining along the top in the middle was the peak of the bend and this is why there is no BLB in this area as the frame was pinching tight on the panel in this area!...laying the panel face down on a flat surface the bend peaked at nearly an inch high in the middle when it was lied on a flat surface


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tmplt*
> 
> On the other side.. is anyone else experiencing flickering anywhere on the screen? When I have mine clocked to 96hz a 1/16 of the screen is flickering, only in the top right corner. Much more noticeable on an OC of 110hz. Is there a way to fix this? Is it simply a pressure-issue, like BLB?


I've got the same thing - a patch about 4 inches square in the bottom right of mine. It happens even at 60Hz for me, but it seems like it only occurs when the monitor first turns on, and then goes away (mostly) after 10 minutes or so. I'm keeping my eye on it, but for now I'm living with it since it is really only distracting on a white or very light background.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> That was the original BLB in the top picture coursed from my frame being bent which creates lose areas where the light could escape onto the front of the screen as opposed to behind it...Ruining along the top in the middle was the peak of the bend and this is why there is no BLB in this area as the frame was pinching tight on the panel in this area!...laying the panel face down on a flat surface the bend peaked at nearly an inch high in the middle when it was lied on a flat surface


I'm talking about the second pic... the two white circles.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I'm talking about the second pic... the two white circles.


Could be UFO's.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep you don't need any tape to fix the BLB with these monitors!... BLB with these monitors is mostly down to the panel sitting in bent frame!...the link below has a few posts on it from myself explaining how i 100% fixed my bad BLB without using any tape at all!


I did see some initial bending in the frame and tried to bend it back... I did put some tape all around the panel but it made matter worse and created a new patch of BLB on the bottom. Time to take it apart yet again







I will be looking at the frame at where the BLB is at


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I'm talking about the second pic... the two white circles.


One is the mouse cursor and the other one take the picture from full screen to minimize


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> I did see some initial bending in the frame and tried to bend it back... I did put some tape all around the panel but it made matter worse and created a new patch of BLB on the bottom. Time to take it apart yet again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be looking at the frame at where the BLB is at


Lay it on a flat surface i used my dinning room table...then you will see where the bend is...then bend it with your hands just using brute force and keep replaceing it back on the table to see which way to bend it next until you have it laying on the table flat!..and then it will be fixed and you can put it back on the panel...if the whole frame is straight you will not have any BLB...forget the tape as you will be pinching it to tight in some areas which will give you more BLB...you don't need tape just a straight frame


----------



## Techno Pride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wisecrack*
> 
> Just got mine awesome monitor I am more than happy with it


wallpaper link, please?

thanks.


----------



## wisecrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techno Pride*
> 
> wallpaper link, please?
> 
> thanks.


Taken from wallpaperswide.com
http://wallpaperswide.com/bloody_rain-wallpapers.html


----------



## Snerp

So, I guess I don't actually have a stable 110hz. When gaming I get a solid two inch darker bar that is purple on the right side of my screen. Is there a setting I'm missing or is this just my monitor saying no to the 110hz?


----------



## Chowchilla

Has anyone been able to achieve 120hz after swapping to a higher quality cable? Or is that another myth?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Has anyone been able to achieve 120hz after swapping to a higher quality cable? Or is that another myth?


No one can guarantee that you will hit 120hz with the best cable on earth!...And some clam good quality cables can make no difference at all and others disagree!!...However all i can tell you is that i can hit 128hz using this cable linked below but i can not hit 128hz using the stock cable!...A better quality cable has always got to be a better as far as i am concerned and if nothing else they look bloody good









http://www.tvcables.co.uk/cgi-bin/tvcables/2m-premium-gold-dvi-pc-monitor-cable.html


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No one can guarantee that you will hit 120hz with the best cable on earth!...And some clam good quality cables can make no difference at all and others disagree!!...However all i can tell you is that i can hit 128hz using this cable linked below but i can not hit 128hz using the stock cable!...A better quality cable has always got to be a better as far as i am concerned and if nothing else they look bloody good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tvcables.co.uk/cgi-bin/tvcables/2m-premium-gold-dvi-pc-monitor-cable.html


wouldn't spend anything more than £20 tbh...


----------



## Tom114

If I want a multi input version, what would be better? A qnix True10 or an evolution II DPort? Or something else, I don't care a lot about overclocking


----------



## jacqg

Guys I don't know what's going on with my QNIX so I decided to post here. I've been running this OC'd at 115 Hz and I seem to be having issues with Flash. Sometimes there are youtube videos that only show as black or I get this video error which looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/JKq1rt4.jpg

Has this happened to any of you? There is still sound coming from the computer and I have to alt+F4 Chrome(also on Firefox) so that it goes away and the display comes back on. The weird thing is that it doesn't happen to all youtube videos but it seems to be random.

I'm wondering, is this a problem with the monitor OC or with Flash itself? I tried installing/reinstalling Flash over and over and it doesn't seem to remedy anything. I also decreased the OC to 96 Hz and I still get that screen. I am using a Powercolor 7950 as my GPU.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacqg*
> 
> Guys I don't know what's going on with my QNIX so I decided to post here. I've been running this OC'd at 115 Hz and I seem to be having issues with Flash. Sometimes there are youtube videos that only show as black or I get this video error which looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/JKq1rt4.jpg
> 
> Has this happened to any of you? There is still sound coming from the computer and I have to alt+F4 Chrome(also on Firefox) so that it goes away and the display comes back on. The weird thing is that it doesn't happen to all youtube videos but it seems to be random.
> 
> I'm wondering, is this a problem with the monitor OC or with Flash itself? I tried installing/reinstalling Flash over and over and it doesn't seem to remedy anything. I also decreased the OC to 96 Hz and I still get that screen. I am using a Powercolor 7950 as my GPU.


Sounds like you are having the known issue of video playback getting borked using the ATI patch.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## Snerp

Is there a option for Nvidia cards to reduce dvi noise? I see in the guide that ATI has it, but can't find the option for Nvidia.

I'd really like at least 110hz. I understand it probably doesn't actually make a difference, but I want it damn it!


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Lay it on a flat surface i used my dinning room table...then you will see where the bend is...then bend it with your hands just using brute force and keep replaceing it back on the table to see which way to bend it next until you have it laying on the table flat!..and then it will be fixed and you can put it back on the panel...if the whole frame is straight you will not have any BLB...forget the tape as you will be pinching it to tight in some areas which will give you more BLB...you don't need tape just a straight frame


I did see the part where it was bent at was able to bend it back, I was afraid of using too much force but was able to get that lower section flat. One thing I forgot to do was take the tape off when i got it all back together







I was way too tired when I was working on this. I will say though that the BLB is gone that section. I will take the tap off when I open it to replace the stand. I am thinking about getting the monoprice one here http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2 I will have to put some rubber feet on it to keep it from sliding off my glass desk. The stock on the Qnix makes my monitor sit off center.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Initial before the fixes


Attempted fix one.... FAIL







(camera phone pic)


After the frame fix




I have been messing around with overclocking for the past day or 2 and mine reaches 96Hz without any issues (no skips, etc) via Nvidia control panel but started to hit a wall going over that. I am playing around some custom timings right now and will report back later.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> Is there a option for Nvidia cards to reduce dvi noise? I see in the guide that ATI has it, but can't find the option for Nvidia.
> 
> I'd really like at least 110hz. I understand it probably doesn't actually make a difference, but I want it damn it!


Use LCD reduced timings. If you don't find them in NvCP then use CRU and see what it sets them to, then copy them into NvCP.


----------



## Tmplt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> Is there a option for Nvidia cards to reduce dvi noise? I see in the guide that ATI has it, but can't find the option for Nvidia.
> 
> I'd really like at least 110hz. I understand it probably doesn't actually make a difference, but I want it damn it!


Could you describe DVI noise? It could possibly be what I have currently.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Has anyone been able to achieve 120hz after swapping to a higher quality cable? Or is that another myth?


SpartanF8 did pretty extensive testing in this area. He found that cable length may be more important than the cable's purported quality. The shorter the better. There are instances of people achieving higher OCs with different cables.

Some people but the lower AWG monoprice cables only to find that the stock cable works better. Some people have had the opposite experience.

Your best best if probably to get a high quality, short cable.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Use LCD reduced timings. If you don't find them in NvCP then use CRU and see what it sets them to, then copy them into NvCP.


Yeah, I have done that. I purchased a 24awg cable from eBay. Maybe I'll try the stock cable and see how it does.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tmplt*
> 
> Could you describe DVI noise? It could possibly be what I have currently.


I believe DVI noise contributes to artifacts. It's more about the information between the signal and the display getting jumbled because the info isn't being handled correctly or is messed up to begin with. Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## bijan588

When I go up to 120hz on my xstar, the picture looks fine, and im not skipping frames. However, everything looks darker.

Is this because my monitor cant handle it? How do I fix the colors?


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> When I go up to 120hz on my xstar, the picture looks fine, and im not skipping frames. However, everything looks darker.
> 
> Is this because my monitor cant handle it? How do I fix the colors?


It's normal. Look at the first page and download a color profile.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Overclocking these monitors cause the gamma to shift, there are several ICC profiles posted in this thread to counteract the shift.


----------



## hak8or

For those reading:

I bought Perfect Pixel] 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor from storewithastory on March 23rd.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321300835630&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

Sent an ebay message on the 25th asking why it hasn't shipped yet, storewith a story said that they were still testing the monitor.

Sent another message on the 27th asking why on earth testing takes this long. storewithastory said that they ran out of stock and offered a $15 credit. I declined saying I totally understand if the issue is with their supply chain and suggested they notify waiting customers in the future that they might experience a longer delay, especially considering their ebay listing says they ship out within 3 business days.

Regardless, the monitor was shipped out finally on Friday using DHL. Got all the way from Korea to CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA in under 16 hours, now is sitting at "Customs status updated". I assume customs doesn't work on weekends?

The wait has been long so far (6 days so far) but I am thinking I will get the monitor by monday or tuesday.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> For those reading:
> 
> I bought Perfect Pixel] 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor from storewithastory on March 23rd.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321300835630&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123
> 
> Sent an ebay message on the 25th asking why it hasn't shipped yet, storewith a story said that they were still testing the monitor.
> 
> Sent another message on the 27th asking why on earth testing takes this long. storewithastory said that they ran out of stock and offered a $15 credit. I declined saying I totally understand if the issue is with their supply chain and suggested they notify waiting customers in the future that they might experience a longer delay, especially considering their ebay listing says they ship out within 3 business days.
> 
> Regardless, the monitor was shipped out finally on Friday using DHL. Got all the way from Korea to CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA in under 16 hours, now is sitting at "Customs status updated". I assume customs doesn't work on weekends?
> 
> The wait has been long so far (6 days so far) but I am thinking I will get the monitor by monday or tuesday.


Should of taken the $15. Its $10 higher than when I did the best offer on mine.


----------



## bluedevil

Just got done wall mounting my Qnix. Will get pix up later.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> Regardless, the monitor was shipped out finally on Friday using DHL. Got all the way from Korea to CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA in under 16 hours, now is sitting at "Customs status updated". I assume customs doesn't work on weekends?
> 
> The wait has been long so far (6 days so far) but I am thinking I will get the monitor by monday or tuesday.


Mine sat in Cincinnati customs until Sunday, then it was cleared and shipped out Sunday night. I would have gotten it Monday but the flight was delayed. So you may be on for Monday.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> For those reading:
> 
> I bought Perfect Pixel] 27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor from storewithastory on March 23rd.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321300835630&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123
> 
> Sent an ebay message on the 25th asking why it hasn't shipped yet, storewith a story said that they were still testing the monitor.
> 
> Sent another message on the 27th asking why on earth testing takes this long. storewithastory said that they ran out of stock and offered a $15 credit. I declined saying I totally understand if the issue is with their supply chain and suggested they notify waiting customers in the future that they might experience a longer delay, especially considering their ebay listing says they ship out within 3 business days.
> 
> Regardless, the monitor was shipped out finally on Friday using DHL. Got all the way from Korea to CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA in under 16 hours, now is sitting at "Customs status updated". I assume customs doesn't work on weekends?
> 
> The wait has been long so far (6 days so far) but I am thinking I will get the monitor by monday or tuesday.


Very odd. They accepted my bid on the ultimate perfect pixel on the 22nd. Shipped mine on the 25th and it arrived on the 28th (UK)


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Very odd. They accepted my bid on the ultimate perfect pixel on the 22nd. Shipped mine on the 25th and it arrived on the 28th (UK)


Meanwhile I have a monitor that I ordered on the 17th, that hasn't been shipped OR given a refund for.


----------



## hak8or

If wouldn't mind, can you say what seller it was and what listing it was for?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Meanwhile I have a monitor that I ordered on the 17th, that hasn't been shipped OR given a refund for.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hak8or*
> 
> If wouldn't mind, can you say what seller it was and what listing it was for?


Ta.korea.global

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171236516279


----------



## autobtsrllout

Hey guys! Just wondering... has anyone here gotten 3 of these babies hooked up to do surround gaming yet? What kind of demand is it on hardware?

Would 2x GTX770 4gb cards in SLI be able to handle that kind of output? Or would I need a pair of 780's/780ti? Or maybe even a titan (or two at that point?)

There's not much information on surround 1440p yet. Most game benchmarks are for 1080p resolutions.

And does anyone know a good place to get 1440p videos or something? I really wanna see some HD material on my QNIX


----------



## hak8or

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> [snip]
> 
> And does anyone know a good place to get 1440p videos or something? I really wanna see some HD material on my QNIX


I would also be interested! Anyways: 




http://www.overclock.net/t/1406370/does-anyone-know-where-to-download-or-watch-2560-x-1440p-movies/0_30






https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5BF9E09ECEC8F88F

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1995176


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> Hey guys! Just wondering... has anyone here gotten 3 of these babies hooked up to do surround gaming yet? What kind of demand is it on hardware?
> 
> Would 2x GTX770 4gb cards in SLI be able to handle that kind of output? Or would I need a pair of 780's/780ti? Or maybe even a titan (or two at that point?)
> 
> There's not much information on surround 1440p yet. Most game benchmarks are for 1080p resolutions.
> 
> And does anyone know a good place to get 1440p videos or something? I really wanna see some HD material on my QNIX


What you need is based more on what game(s) and what settings. You can run 3 off one video card if you want, but you'll probably need to lower settings to get decent frame rates. I'm running 3 using SLI'd 780TI's, but testing I did last week showed you can run all three from one video card. I did both a 780TI and an AMD 7970.


----------



## tocirahl

In case you guys haven't already, you might want to check out SVP (Smooth Video Project) to interpolate videos into 120 Hz.

http://www.svp-team.com/


----------



## autobtsrllout

I guess i'm just curious about something that'd do 60+ fps on ultra settings with 3 1440p monitors in surround.

Obviously that's going to be a pricey setup. I just know my GTX770 4gb card is running 1440p beastly smooth but think that it'd start choking if I hooked up two more of these suckers and tried to get surround going with it. Maybe even in SLI with another one.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacqg*
> 
> Guys I don't know what's going on with my QNIX so I decided to post here. I've been running this OC'd at 115 Hz and I seem to be having issues with Flash. Sometimes there are youtube videos that only show as black or I get this video error which looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/JKq1rt4.jpg
> 
> Has this happened to any of you? There is still sound coming from the computer and I have to alt+F4 Chrome(also on Firefox) so that it goes away and the display comes back on. The weird thing is that it doesn't happen to all youtube videos but it seems to be random.
> 
> I'm wondering, is this a problem with the monitor OC or with Flash itself? I tried installing/reinstalling Flash over and over and it doesn't seem to remedy anything. I also decreased the OC to 96 Hz and I still get that screen. I am using a Powercolor 7950 as my GPU.


You are describing two different issues:

1. Flash videos only show as black -- This happens because video acceleration does not work with the patch. You have to disable hardware acceleration in the Flash Player settings as described on the patcher's download page.

2. The entire screen gets scrambled -- This happens when video acceleration is active if the video card's memory clock is overclocked and the vertical blanking/total is below standard. This is an AMD issue unrelated to the patch.


----------



## sammysamsam

You are describing two different issues:

1. Flash videos only show as black -- This happens because video acceleration does not work with the patch. You have to disable hardware acceleration in the Flash Player settings as described on the patcher's download page.

2. The entire screen gets scrambled -- This happens when video acceleration is active if the video card's memory clock is overclocked and the vertical blanking/total is below standard. This is an AMD issue unrelated to the patch.[/quote]

How do you fix the annoying problem with number 2 and AMD??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> You are describing two different issues:
> 
> 1. Flash videos only show as black -- This happens because video acceleration does not work with the patch. You have to disable hardware acceleration in the Flash Player settings as described on the patcher's download page.
> 
> 2. The entire screen gets scrambled -- This happens when video acceleration is active if the video card's memory clock is overclocked and the vertical blanking/total is below standard. This is an AMD issue unrelated to the patch.


How do you fix the annoying problem with number 2 and AMD??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*


----------



## jgee77

First and foremost I have to say that this forum is fantastic and I'm really loving my X-Star purchase from DreamSeller (highly recommended). No stuck pixels and minimal backlight bleed if any!

I am new to the world of overclocking monitors but the step by step guide walked me through it successfully getting my new R9 270 OC edition GPU firing away at 96HZ flawlessly (120 Hz gave green lines), however, I'm now realizing that there is no workaround for losing HDCP after patching the AMD drivers for the overclock.

I use Windows Media Center as an extender for my Ceton InfiniTV4 running on my HTPC rig (Verizon Fios cable) in the living room and while some have reported no HDCP issues (NVidia users I presume based on Toasty's comments about no patch necessary to overclock to 96Hz I believe and therefore not breaking/altering the signed drivers) I cetainly seem stuck as an AMD customer. Given my short time in this scene, are there any rumblings that HDCP could one day stay in tact despite the patch or is that just wishful thinking on my part? I've done quite a bit of looking around but assume most couldn't care less about giving up HDCP to get the overclock (especially since most here are gamers at heart).

If anyone using the AMD patch to overclock has managed to keep WMC functionality in regards to live tv that is HDCP protected I'd be all ears to hear out some possible solutions. At this point (being a minimal gamer at most, it means more to me to have TV capabilities than an overclock if I had to choose just one, but it sure would be nice to have it all!







 Thanks for any thoughts/guidance!


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sammysamsam*
> 
> How do you fix the annoying problem with number 2 and AMD??


Disabling hardware acceleration should take care of that, or don't overclock the video card's memory clock, or use the "LCD standard" vertical blanking/total.


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Disabling hardware acceleration should take care of that, or don't overclock the video card's memory clock, or use the "LCD standard" vertical blanking/total.


Which hardware acceleration are you talking about? flash?


----------



## wisecrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Just got done wall mounting my Qnix. Will get pix up later.


Waiting for those pics


----------



## Optimus1978

Well; seen that the flight that my monitor was on landed at heathrow last night - but it's not gone any further on order tracking.

What have you guys seen before? Does it usually take a while to reappear from customs? I expected it to get pulled by customs last night - and have an email for a customs charge this morning?

Also - does the tracking provided run to the door , or will I get a new tracking number for a UK currier?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Well; seen that the flight that my monitor was on landed at heathrow last night - but it's not gone any further on order tracking.
> 
> What have you guys seen before? Does it usually take a while to reappear from customs? I expected it to get pulled by customs last night - and have an email for a customs charge this morning?
> 
> Also - does the tracking provided run to the door , or will I get a new tracking number for a UK currier?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Who is your courier? Mine (DHL) went from Germany to my local depot overnight, passing through customs in the early hours. I only got a customs charge notification when it got to my delivery depot, they dispatched it the next day.

You should keep the same tracker all the way.

Quote:


> Delivered - Signed for by : ILLEGABLE 12:35


my writing isn't that bad


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sammysamsam*
> 
> Which hardware acceleration are you talking about? flash?


Where are you having this problem? This shouldn't happen if you disabled hardware acceleration in Flash and any video players/decoders you're using.


----------



## Rhaxas

Well My qnix arrived and this is what i'm stuck with. Should I ask for a refund or just go ahead and try the tape mod? It is really noticeable when playing games or watching videos.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Well; seen that the flight that my monitor was on landed at heathrow last night - but it's not gone any further on order tracking.
> 
> What have you guys seen before? Does it usually take a while to reappear from customs? I expected it to get pulled by customs last night - and have an email for a customs charge this morning?
> 
> Also - does the tracking provided run to the door , or will I get a new tracking number for a UK currier?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Who is your courier? Mine (DHL) went from Germany to my local depot overnight, passing through customs in the early hours. I only got a customs charge notification when it got to my delivery depot, they dispatched it the next day.
> 
> You should keep the same tracker all the way.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Delivered - Signed for by : ILLEGABLE 12:35
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> my writing isn't that bad
Click to expand...

It's shipped via EMS and arrived at Heathrow last night. No update on tracking since leaving korean with a flight number.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> Hey guys! Just wondering... has anyone here gotten 3 of these babies hooked up to do surround gaming yet? What kind of demand is it on hardware?
> 
> Would 2x GTX770 4gb cards in SLI be able to handle that kind of output? Or would I need a pair of 780's/780ti? Or maybe even a titan (or two at that point?)
> 
> There's not much information on surround 1440p yet. Most game benchmarks are for 1080p resolutions.
> 
> And does anyone know a good place to get 1440p videos or something? I really wanna see some HD material on my QNIX


I'm now running SLI 680s 2GB cards.
Only got a VRAM limit for AA on BF4.

Apart from that - with your 4GB cards, you'll be absolutely fine - better setup than a single 780ti setup you got there.
So yeah, you're good to go (on any current gen game that's out) - and I'm basing it off the most intensive one your PC can go through -> BF4.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhaxas*
> 
> Well My qnix arrived and this is what i'm stuck with. Should I ask for a refund or just go ahead and try the tape mod? It is really noticeable when playing games or watching videos.


Not sure how bad that is really.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhaxas*
> 
> Well My qnix arrived and this is what i'm stuck with. Should I ask for a refund or just go ahead and try the tape mod? It is really noticeable when playing games or watching videos.


if you feel confident you could try taking it appart and straightening out the frame.


----------



## sammysamsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Where are you having this problem? This shouldn't happen if you disabled hardware acceleration in Flash and any video players/decoders you're using.


It happens randomly when im gaming. Dont know iif its my gpu oc but it will happen when im at stock settings also. Have never had any issues before with my old dell.


----------



## Rhaxas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm now running SLI 680s 2GB cards.
> Only got a VRAM limit for AA on BF4.
> 
> Apart from that - with your 4GB cards, you'll be absolutely fine - better setup than a single 780ti setup you got there.
> So yeah, you're good to go (on any current gen game that's out) - and I'm basing it off the most intensive one your PC can go through -> BF4.
> Not sure how bad that is really.


Yea I was curious as well I wasn't 100% sure how bad this backlight bleed was. Anyone else have an opinion on it?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhaxas*
> 
> Yea I was curious as well I wasn't 100% sure how bad this backlight bleed was. Anyone else have an opinion on it?


You didn't take a photo in the correct angle to show backlight bleed alone. There are angles you should take a photo at for backlight bleed, yellow bleed (panel pressure), etc...


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sammysamsam*
> 
> It happens randomly when im gaming. Dont know iif its my gpu oc but it will happen when im at stock settings also. Have never had any issues before with my old dell.


The problem doesn't affect gaming. You're having a completely different problem.


----------



## Eagle1337

I should have mine next week as it's already made it to the states ^_^


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jgee77*
> 
> I use Windows Media Center as an extender for my Ceton InfiniTV4 running on my HTPC rig (Verizon Fios cable) in the living room and while some have reported no HDCP issues (NVidia users I presume based on Toasty's comments about no patch necessary to overclock to 96Hz I believe and therefore not breaking/altering the signed drivers) I cetainly seem stuck as an AMD customer. Given my short time in this scene, are there any rumblings that HDCP could one day stay in tact despite the patch or is that just wishful thinking on my part? I've done quite a bit of looking around but assume most couldn't care less about giving up HDCP to get the overclock (especially since most here are gamers at heart).
> 
> If anyone using the AMD patch to overclock has managed to keep WMC functionality in regards to live tv that is HDCP protected I'd be all ears to hear out some possible solutions. At this point (being a minimal gamer at most, it means more to me to have TV capabilities than an overclock if I had to choose just one, but it sure would be nice to have it all!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any thoughts/guidance!


Try using this to switch between the patched and unpatched driver without needing to reboot: atikmdag-switcher.zip


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhaxas*
> 
> Well My qnix arrived and this is what i'm stuck with. Should I ask for a refund or just go ahead and try the tape mod? It is really noticeable when playing games or watching videos.


I very much doubt that they will take it back because of BLB!... Its a disclaimer on most if not all of the sellers pages...BLB is one of the major reason these are A- panels....The panel will be sat in a bent frame and i would straighten the frame which will fix your BLB 100% and its not a hard job to do at all!...There are a few posts of mine on link below explaining how i straightened my frame which fixed my BLB 100%....Also forget tape you don't need it!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> The problem doesn't affect gaming. You're having a completely different problem.


Toasty i have 2x new R9 290 cards and your patch does not seem to have broken HDCP for me...i have not found one page on youtube i can not view and i can watch live TV from the BBC or ITV or Channel 5...in fact i have not found anything i can not watch yet and i have not disabled any video acceleration what so ever...Clearly patching the driver does not guaranteed loss of HDCP support?


----------



## Watagump

Made a new ICC profile today, if anyone wants to try it out. 96hz, profile. Its 11 clicks up from the brightness being all the way down.

ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


----------



## zabak80

Quick question/advice needed:

I'm in the market for a new 27" and wasn't sure if the Qnix/X-Star is right for me.

I was going to get the Monoprice glass 27" monitor when it goes on sale for $350ish: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=10489&seq=1&format=2

But I came across these options. Now my computer is NOT some sort of powerhouse overclocker, I mainly use it for media, internet and the occasional game of TF2 and GTA V when it comes out. I don't game that much. I'm not looking to set benchmarks, I'm just a regular user.

I understand computers pretty well, build them and I am not afraid to take apart a monitor, I am also open to a LITTLE risk for BLB as long as I can fix it, but would buy a pixel perfect monitor regardless.

Is the risk worth it for someone who is a casual gamer? Is the 120hz over 60hz at the $300 range worth the risk and would I notice the difference? I also don't know when the next sale is, it could be next week or in 6 months, so that is a minor factor.

Also, is glass or matte the better option for a general dark, dimly lit room?

Thanks!


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Made a new ICC profile today, if anyone wants to try it out. 96hz, profile. Its 11 clicks up from the brightness being all the way down.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


tried your profile, while it does look better than all other profiles except the asus profile. at MAX brightness your profile looks better than asus and has more contrast(on my screen) BUT at lower brightness levels(20 and less) the asus has more pure whites, im getting a yellowish white with your profile...

All these screens are different i know, thanks for sharing!!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> tried your profile, while it does look better than all other profiles except the asus profile. at MAX brightness your profile looks better than asus and has more contrast(on my screen) BUT at lower brightness levels(20 and less) the asus has more pure whites, im getting a yellowish white with your profile...
> 
> All these screens are different i know, thanks for sharing!!


I was a little off on my brightness clicks, it was 10 up and not 11. Even the 10 clicks came out with a 129cd/m in the whites.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I was a little off on my brightness clicks, it was 10 up and not 11. Even the 10 clicks came out with a 129cd/m in the whites.


Maybe im strange, but i like my brightness up high, about 20.... does too much brightness ruin color accuracy?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Maybe im strange, but i like my brightness up high, about 20.... does too much brightness ruin color accuracy?


I try and get as close to 120 cd/m as I can based on the industry standard for photos. I will choose higher than lower if I cant hit 120 on the nose. If you prefer brighter, thats your choice, I go for accuracy based on the industry standard.


----------



## brialee8

Finally using my X-star that I ordered from dream-seller on 3/10 (it arrived on the 28th).

There is about a line of 1.5 mm of dead pixels (less depending on the color) in the lower left hand corner right above the taskbar, so its pretty hard to notice. Have not found any other dead pixels so far anywhere else.

I have pretty much zero black light bleed using jason farrell's black screen test. No discoloration of any sort when looking directly at the screen.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I try and get as close to 120 cd/m as I can based on the industry standard for photos. I will choose higher than lower if I cant hit 120 on the nose. If you prefer brighter, thats your choice, I go for accuracy based on the industry standard.


----------



## bluedevil

Anyone else getting no/black video on youtube after patching?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> Maybe im strange, but i like my brightness up high, about 20.... does too much brightness ruin color accuracy?


There's no real visible color accuracy difference between different brightnesses on the Qnix so what you're seeing is most likely too much brightness covering up what you tend to see at lower brightness. Raising brightness too much can cause issues when you flash white content on a dark background and your eyes go  and give you a false sense of punchiness. A lower brightness monitor that sits in flush with what's around it looks the most natural. 80-120cd/m2 is generally the normal range with 140cd/m2 being somewhat bright, 160-200cd/m2 being pretty bright, and anything above that generally being overkill. 12 clicks get me to 170cd/m2 so 20 clicks must be


----------



## htapocysp

Just got a text my qnix 2710 will be here tomorrow


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Anyone else getting no/black video on youtube after patching?


All youtubes and live streaming media seem to all play fine for me with hardware acceleration on!...i have just moved from Nvidia 2x GTX660 SLI where i also had no problem watching any content to AMD x2 R9 290 cards and all is fine!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> All youtubes and live streaming media seem to all play fine for me with hardware acceleration on!...i have just moved from Nvidia 2x GTX660 SLI where i also had no problem watching any content to AMD x2 R9 290 cards and all is fine!


Weird only happens in Chrome. Firefox works fine though..


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Anyone else getting no/black video on youtube after patching?


working fine here, but i decided not to use the patch because i have a 780 and its apparently not needed. im doing 96 hz perfect with no distortion, i cant even see the gamma change at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> There's no real visible color accuracy difference between different brightnesses on the Qnix so what you're seeing is most likely too much brightness covering up what you tend to see at lower brightness. Raising brightness too much can cause issues when you flash white content on a dark background and your eyes go  and give you a false sense of punchiness. A lower brightness monitor that sits in flush with what's around it looks the most natural. 80-120cd/m2 is generally the normal range with 140cd/m2 being somewhat bright, 160-200cd/m2 being pretty bright, and anything above that generally being overkill. 12 clicks get me to 170cd/m2 so 20 clicks must be


thanks for your description, makes much more sense.

now i understand why my eyes bleed when i leave a save on skyrim LOL o-0


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> There's no real visible color accuracy difference between different brightnesses on the Qnix so what you're seeing is most likely too much brightness covering up what you tend to see at lower brightness. Raising brightness too much can cause issues when you flash white content on a dark background and your eyes go  and give you a false sense of punchiness. A lower brightness monitor that sits in flush with what's around it looks the most natural. 80-120cd/m2 is generally the normal range with 140cd/m2 being somewhat bright, 160-200cd/m2 being pretty bright, and anything above that generally being overkill. 12 clicks get me to 170cd/m2 so 20 clicks must be


I don't even want to try 20 clicks to see what the brightness measures at. But in reality, I really do.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I don't even want to try 20 clicks to see what the brightness measures at. But in reality, I really do.


do it an report back, tag me in it lol so i see it, this thread moves to quick sometimes


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> do it an report back, tag me in it lol so i see it, this thread moves to quick sometimes


I am making you a profile now based on 20 clicks on my screen of course. White point at 237.71 cd/m.


----------



## bluedevil

Fixed. Uninstalled Chrome, re installed. Good to go.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I am making you a profile now based on 20 clicks on my screen of course. White point at 237.71 cd/m.


AWESOME!!







appreciate that


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Fixed. Uninstalled Chrome, re installed. Good to go.


chome has been being weird for me too, my ad blocker vanished about 5 minutes ago


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Fixed. Uninstalled Chrome, re installed. Good to go.


Nice i always use chrome and nothing else


----------



## Watagump

Here you go anthony. 20 clicks 96hz white point 237.7 cd/m.

ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


----------



## Watagump

I just noticed that these are being created as icm files, using dispcalgui and loading them with color sustainer. Whats the deal with that over icc profiles?


----------



## Rhaxas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I very much doubt that they will take it back because of BLB!... Its a disclaimer on most if not all of the sellers pages...BLB is one of the major reason these are A- panels....The panel will be sat in a bent frame and i would straighten the frame which will fix your BLB 100% and its not a hard job to do at all!...There are a few posts of mine on link below explaining how i straightened my frame which fixed my BLB 100%....Also forget tape you don't need it!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/12970


Thank you, i'll try out your method.


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here you go anthony. 20 clicks 96hz white point 237.7 cd/m.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


Thanks! Now using this!


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Toasty i have 2x new R9 290 cards and your patch does not seem to have broken HDCP for me...i have not found one page on youtube i can not view and i can watch live TV from the BBC or ITV or Channel 5...in fact i have not found anything i can not watch yet and i have not disabled any video acceleration what so ever...Clearly patching the driver does not guaranteed loss of HDCP support?


YouTube and over-the-air live TV don't require HDCP. Only Blu-ray and paid digital TV require HDCP.

Video acceleration is separate from HDCP. Unless something changed with the R9 290/290X cards, I don't know why you haven't needed to disable video acceleration anywhere.


----------



## jgee77

Many thanks on the switcher recommendation, Toasty... Will certainly give it a shot!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here you go anthony. 20 clicks 96hz white point 237.7 cd/m.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


Hehe nice. Remind me what sensor you got?

An interesting test: *download HCFR --> View images --> Choose sensor --> Display measurement --> Measure grayscale, primaries, and secondaries* for the following scenarios:

1) 12c profile at 12c brightness
2) 12c profile at 20c brightness
3) 20c profile at 12c brightness
4) 20c profile at 20c brightness

Be sure to have left your monitor on for at least 30m-1h so that it stabilizes as I have found out that verifying previously accurate profiles gave me errors if the display had not warmed up. You'd expect no warmup period with LED but it seems this is the panel warming up.

I'll do the same at my side soon. If the errors are the same then it would be pointless to provide profiles at different brightnesses. Measure on highest brightness to obtain higher black levels that are easier to measure particularly on Spyder4 sensors.

My laptop does show a difference in error between 80% and 100% so I have two profiles, one for 80% (~140cd/m2) and one for 100% (~330cd/m2) off the top of my head.


----------



## brialee8

Does anyone else's monitor flicker? The lower right hand corner of my monitor seems to flicker every once in awhile. Not sure what the cause is.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> Does anyone else's monitor flicker? The lower right hand corner of my monitor seems to flicker every once in awhile. Not sure what the cause is.


Mine does when it first comes on - seems to be getting better (shorter) now though. *knocks on wood*


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I just noticed that these are being created as icm files, using dispcalgui and loading them with color sustainer. Whats the deal with that over icc profiles?


They're the same file format. Mac programs typically use the .icc extension, while Windows programs typically use the .icm extension.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Hehe nice. Remind me what sensor you got?
> 
> An interesting test: *download HCFR --> View images --> Choose sensor --> Display measurement --> Measure grayscale, primaries, and secondaries* for the following scenarios:
> 
> 1) 12c profile at 12c brightness
> 2) 12c profile at 20c brightness
> 3) 20c profile at 12c brightness
> 4) 20c profile at 20c brightness
> 
> Be sure to have left your monitor on for at least 30m-1h so that it stabilizes as I have found out that verifying previously accurate profiles gave me errors if the display had not warmed up. You'd expect no warmup period with LED but it seems this is the panel warming up.
> 
> I'll do the same at my side soon. If the errors are the same then it would be pointless to provide profiles at different brightnesses. Measure on highest brightness to obtain higher black levels that are easier to measure particularly on Spyder4 sensors.
> 
> My laptop does show a difference in error between 80% and 100% so I have two profiles, one for 80% (~140cd/m2) and one for 100% (~330cd/m2) off the top of my head.


Colormunki Display, no more testing, brain overload.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

What were the programs again for the colour profiles?

The default one in windows doesn't ever seem to work.


----------



## hogofwar

I finally got the refund back.

On the exact same day my offer for the ultimate perfect pixel expired.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I finally got the refund back.
> 
> On the exact same day my offer for the ultimate perfect pixel expired.


ouch. how much was the offer inl postage?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ouch. how much was the offer inl postage?


Same as yours, I don't think i would have gone for it anyway though, got to insure a car first before I spend the rest of my money.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What were the programs again for the colour profiles?
> 
> The default one in windows doesn't ever seem to work.


The windows one seems to work fine for me, I used the guide from the front page. As for the alternatives. There's CPkeeper and colour sustainer.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Same as yours, I don't think i would have gone for it anyway though, got to insure a car first before I spend the rest of my money.


If you're going to order it - ask storewithstory to try and make the EBAY UK one with a best offer price.
So then you can get square trade
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> The windows one seems to work fine for me, I used the guide from the front page. As for the alternatives. There's CPkeeper and colour sustainer.


I tried using it as shown in the OP - but I hit "set as default" and nothing happens...:/


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I tried using it as shown in the OP - but I hit "set as default" and nothing happens...:/


did you also set the gamma correction?

also, seems Storewithstory has removed all listings for the Ultimate Perfect Pixel


----------



## Hl86

What is best Catleap Q270 SE JUPITER LED 27" vs QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ OC 27", Same Price.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> did you also set the gamma correction?


Yeah I'm a bit confused tbh - each time I try and add anything it doesn't add it....
Going to youtube it - see if there's anything better than that guide.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What were the programs again for the colour profiles?
> 
> The default one in windows doesn't ever seem to work.


Windows color management is totally rubbish and you don't want to use it...also it does work it just a stupid way of making it work which is pointless telling you as you should use color substaner or color keeper

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Windows color management is totally rubbish and you don't want to use it...also it does work it just a stupid way of making it work which is pointless telling you as you should use color substaner or color keeper
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html


that's the one buddy! thanks!

OK tried that other profile - seems like my monitor is absolutely correct as it is.
The profile that was linked and I loaded - made the monitor a TAD red - warm ish colour. Meaning whites, weren't as white as before.

I think I'm trying and worrying over nothing.
Seems like my monitor OC'ed is absolutely perfect.

Re-tried this:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/16970#post_22032555

I can see darker blues now - not sure if monitor or eyes...lol


----------



## Watagump

Here is the profile I am using right now, its my favorite. 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness, 96hz around 123 cd/m white point.

ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is the profile I am using right now, its my favorite. 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness, 96hz around 123 cd/m white point.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


very weird - applied it and it start flickering my screen!


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> very weird - applied it and it start flickering my screen!


Computers.


----------



## wisecrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is the profile I am using right now, its my favorite. 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness, 96hz around 123 cd/m white point.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


This one I like very much and I used plenty thanks.

I always keep reverting to the Asus one ,but will give this one a couple of days.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wisecrack*
> 
> This one I like very much and I used plenty thanks.
> 
> I always keep reverting to the Asus one ,but will give this one a couple of days.


what are you using to revert to the asus one?
colour sustainer doesn't work with the asus one


----------



## ategro

Ugh...

I ordered a Qnix (the non-multi edition, because I want to OC) from www.2560x1440monitor.com. I had a few questions answered by email from the seller, who also appears to be behind BigClothCraft on Ebay (?) and he was very kind and informative.
However... It took them 4 days to make my order go from "Pending" to "Processed". The order was changed to "Processed" on Friday (28th), but I've not heard anything since. I've not gotten a tracking number or anything else since, and it seems the non-multi edition of the Qnix has been pulled away from the store, leaving only the multi-input editions left.

Should I be worried? Tomorrow it's been a whole week since I placed my order but I've had no confirmation of any shipment yet...


----------



## Chowchilla

any profile i add with colour sustainer makes the screen flicker.

well... apart from one yasamoka linked to a while back


----------



## wisecrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> what are you using to revert to the asus one?
> colour sustainer doesn't work with the asus one


I use CpKeeper.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is the profile I am using right now, its my favorite. 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness, 96hz around 123 cd/m white point.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


OK sorted - that now works and yes agreed, better than your last!
I'm at 15 clicks from (complete black monitor) - 14click from super low brightness

What's your definition of lowest brightness?


----------



## Chowchilla

seems to be an issue with these profile programs and F.lux. i cant live without Flux


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wisecrack*
> 
> This one I like very much and I used plenty thanks.
> 
> I always keep reverting to the Asus one ,but will give this one a couple of days.


what brightness are you at with the Asus profile?


----------



## wisecrack

I'm not sure I like my brightness to be high so I'm currently on 16 clicks from B-


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> what are you using to revert to the asus one?
> colour sustainer doesn't work with the asus one


I posted the workaround a few pages back already.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> any profile i add with colour sustainer makes the screen flicker.
> 
> well... apart from one yasamoka linked to a while back


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> seems to be an issue with these profile programs and F.lux. i cant live without Flux


Of course. F.lux changes colors by using the same method as any color profile application software. The conflict is because both software want to preserve their color profiles.

Just a question, why don't you guys give feedback when you face issues like these? I have already covered them in my forum thread. New cases that arise, I can cover them as well. Plus, if there's a real bug, I can fix it.

Also, read the readme. Know how the application works. Then it would become clear why you get "flicker", which is basically the profiles switching every second between Color Sustainer profile and F.lux (default polling period for Color Sustainer is 1000ms).

I have a bunch of warmer profiles here.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/coyn2hldsqkzjte/Qnix%20Profiles%20%282014-03-30%29.zip

5000K / 6500K - gamma 1.8 / 2.0 / 2.2 / 2.4 / 2.6 sRGB 60Hz 96Hz 110Hz (not all possible combinations).

You can also use the minitool CaptureGammaRamp to capture the F.lux loaded profiles into an ICC-ish file that Color Sustainer can use.

*All those who use Color Sustainer, update to v1.03.3 if you haven't done so already.*


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> what brightness are you at with the Asus profile?


You can try mine if you like i made them at 200 cd/m2 which is about 18 clicks up from a black screen for the 120hz and 17 clicks up for the 96hz...I always calibrate at 200cd/m as my computor is in my study which has 6 windows...also 120cd/m is a very dim brightness which is ideal for editing photographs with maybe a monitor hood!..i believe its to dim for general purpose use and i believe many others would find it to dim also!

My profiles are also calibrated at the monitors native white point which i believe is the best way to calibrate these monitors as they have no OSD RGB settings to adjust to try to force them to a specific white point like for example 5000k or 5800k etc....In-fact the Qnix native white point is a very near perfect industry standard at 6500k out of the box at 60hz!...mine is 6555k....Anyhow anyone is more than welcome to try my ICC profiles below calibrated at the Qnix native white point.

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## Optimus1978

Anyone suggest how long UK customs normally takes to release a monitor?


----------



## ategro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> Ugh...
> 
> I ordered a Qnix (the non-multi edition, because I want to OC) from www.2560x1440monitor.com. I had a few questions answered by email from the seller, who also appears to be behind BigClothCraft on Ebay (?) and he was very kind and informative.
> However... It took them 4 days to make my order go from "Pending" to "Processed". The order was changed to "Processed" on Friday (28th), but I've not heard anything since. I've not gotten a tracking number or anything else since, and it seems the non-multi edition of the Qnix has been pulled away from the store, leaving only the multi-input editions left.
> 
> Should I be worried? Tomorrow it's been a whole week since I placed my order but I've had no confirmation of any shipment yet...


No one?







Is this a lost cause?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Anyone suggest how long UK customs normally takes to release a monitor?


Within minutes / a few hours as soon as the courier pays them the import duty to release it to them so they can deliver it to you!....you will of course receive a bill later for the pre-paid import duty


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Within minutes / a few hours as soon as the courier pays them the import duty to release it to them so they can deliver it to you!....you will of course receive a bill later for the pre-paid import duty


Thanks - Watch the Flight tracking on Saturday (Sad I know), so I know its been in the UK since Saturday night, and only this morning did the tracking details update :-(


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You can try mine if you like i made them at 200 cd/m2 which is about 18 clicks up from a black screen for the 120hz and 17 clicks up for the 96hz...I always calibrate at 200cd/m as my computor is in my study which has 6 windows...also 120cd/m is a very dim brightness which is ideal for editing photographs with maybe a monitor hood!..i believe its to dim for general purpose use and i believe many others would find it to dim also!


Using your profile now, its nice.. although maybe too bright for me when it gets darker.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I posted the workaround a few pages back already.
> 
> Of course. F.lux changes colors by using the same method as any color profile application software. The conflict is because both software want to preserve their color profiles.


Yeah, sorry. i found that out after looking at your Guru3D forum.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Thanks - Watch the Flight tracking on Saturday (Sad I know), so I know its been in the UK since Saturday night, and only this morning did the tracking details update :-(


Yep its because most courier company's only deal at the weekends with extra paid to delivery weekend packages at the weekend...it will be on its way to you now!....you will most likly find its delivered tommorrow


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Using your profile now, its nice.. although maybe too bright for me when it gets darker


It will be fine to lower the brightness on these profiles in the evening or indeed during the day


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> It will be fine to lower the brightness on these profiles the evening or indeed during the day


using your 96hz profile atm @ 12 clicks and im liking it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> It will be fine to lower the brightness on these profiles in the evening or indeed during the day


your ones make my whole screen bright white lol


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> your ones make my whole screen bright white lol


Try turning the brightness down!...The profile has been calibrated at 2.2 Gamma using the Qnix native white point which is very near to the industry standard of 6500k...it simply can not turn your screen bright white


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> OK sorted - that now works and yes agreed, better than your last!
> I'm at 15 clicks from (complete black monitor) - 14click from super low brightness
> 
> What's your definition of lowest brightness?


The lowest brightness mine will go, I don't get a blank screen. I still see images. All my profiles are done to a color temp of 6500k and a 2.2 gamma.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try turning the brightness down!...The profile has been calibrated at 2.2 Gamma using the Qnix native white point which is very near to the industry standard of 6500k...it simply can not turn your screen bright white


still doesn't really show colours properly lol - every monitor is different i guess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The lowest brightness mine will go, I don't get a blank screen. I still see images.


I see so 14 clicks for me on your ICC profile


----------



## Watagump

I think I found the real reason for shipping delays. Better buy fast in case they all get blown up.









http://news.yahoo.com/koreas-trade-fire-island-residents-shelters-054740614.html


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> still doesn't really show colours properly lol - every monitor is different i guess


Brightness generally does not affect color accuracy visibly enough, especially not on the Qnix (and I will provide cold hard numbers for this later). Try and get used to lower brightness, see how it feels. You might feel more comfortable.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Ordered my perfect pixel qnix qx2710 Friday, come this morning Monday. No dead pixels.

I am trying to install a color profile, but it only shows my 2nd monitor under windows colors management? How do I get the qnix qx2710 to show up in there?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I've just popped over to my win8 installation and it's weird the program doesn't work with win8 for some reason?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I've just popped over to my win8 installation and it's weird the program doesn't work with win8 for some reason?


I developed the application on Windows 8 LOL


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I developed the application on Windows 8 LOL


haha - why isn't it working then :/
Win7 - no problems, win8 - doesn't seem to "start/stop"


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha - why isn't it working then :/
> Win7 - no problems, win8 - doesn't seem to "start/stop"


Works for me on 8.1


----------



## lasttimei

i just got my qnix 2day delivery XD good, but it's connected and all why is it changing coolers like it's doing a pixel test? how can i stop this.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> i just got my qnix 2day delivery XD good, but it's connected and all why is it changing coolers like it's doing a pixel test? how can i stop this.


Plug it into the DVD-D connection.


----------



## lasttimei

i tried that nothing showing up unless it's not suppose to work on a amd 6850. Waiting for my gtx 780 to arrive tomorrow from rma.


----------



## 161029

Still tempted to buy one but I'm not quite happy with what I've seen as far as contrast ratio goes (at least on the IPS equivalents. Haven't seen measurements of these PLS monitors). Anybody have any measurements?

Edit: Did some research on the LTM270DL02 panel. I forgot that quite a few monitors used this panel.


Samsung S27A850D (review) -> 761:1 calibrated contrast ratio
Samsung S27B970D (review) -> 800:1 calibrated contrast ratio
ViewSonic VP2770-LED (review) -> 752:1 calibrated contrast ratio
Asus PB278Q (review) -> 858:1 calibrated contrast ratio

Still hard to know what to expect since the same IPS panels used in the Korean IPS monitors are also supposed to be 1000:1 for contrast ratio just like the Samsung PLS panel, and the contrast ratio on those is down in the 300-400 range.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Works for me on 8.1


I'm on 8.1 pro -not working here :/


----------



## aaronjb

My DP2710LED was delivered at home this afternoon.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. I'm eager to assess the quality of my display and put any of the required "fixes" in place.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

OK tried colour keeper - worked like a charm on win8.1.
It's funny keeper works better on win8.1 than on 7 - and it's vice versa with sustainer haha


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> OK tried colour keeper - worked like a charm on win8.1.
> It's funny keeper works better on win8.1 than on 7 - and it's vice versa with sustainer haha


No, not really. Color Sustainer works for other Windows 8 users. Almost all the devices I have installed it on are Windows 8 / 8.1 and it works on them all.

I can't help you further without you providing me more info. What profiles are you trying to associate, what resolution, refresh rate, what does the logfile show?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No, not really. Color Sustainer works for other Windows 8 users. Almost all the devices I have installed it on are Windows 8 / 8.1 and it works on them all.
> 
> I can't help you further without you providing me more info. What profiles are you trying to associate, what resolution, refresh rate, what does the logfile show?


this one:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/16970#post_22032555

1440p @ 96hz.
As for logfile?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> this one:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star/16970#post_22032555
> 
> 1440p @ 96hz.
> As for logfile?


Show me screenshots. Logfile is in Color Sustainer's folder.

EDIT: Tried profile on Windows 8.1, works fine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Show me screenshots. Logfile is in Color Sustainer's folder.
> 
> EDIT: Tried profile on Windows 8.1, works fine.


Thanks for trying - but hopped off win8 now.
Couldn't stand it.

The log has quite a lot of sensitive info there...name etc.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> OK tried colour keeper - worked like a charm on win8.1.
> It's funny keeper works better on win8.1 than on 7 - and it's vice versa with sustainer haha


I can also confirm that color sustainer works flawlessly for me on windows 8.1 pro


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is the profile I am using right now, its my favorite. 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness, 96hz around 123 cd/m white point.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


Thanks, gonna play with this profile


----------



## okashira

I'm super temped to pick up another - I'd like to get one without no glow (matte)
What's my best route to getting a matte with no glow/no pwm?
DP2710LED or QX2710?
Seller? dream-seller; gn_wholesale; kcci-ushulustar; items_dealer; accessorieswhole; kgamenes
Anyone received one recently with no glow ? What seller/model?

I am not talking about BLB - I can fix that - I mean glow. The off angle glow you get anywhere on the panel when viewing off angle blacks.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *okashira*
> 
> I'm super temped to pick up another - I'd like to get one without no glow (matte)
> What's my best route to getting a matte with no glow/no pwm?
> DP2710LED or QX2710?
> Seller? dream-seller; gn_wholesale; kcci-ushulustar; items_dealer; accessorieswhole; kgamenes
> Anyone received one recently with no glow ? What seller/model?
> 
> I am not talking about BLB - I can fix that - I mean glow. The off angle glow you get anywhere on the panel when viewing off angle blacks.


Random, unlikely, and pretty rare to get a sample with no glow. They seem to be Eizo CX2736W panels as only that monitor is IPS and has no glow.

AFAIK the vast vast majority of these monitors have no PWM. I've seen two or three cases max at ~160Hz.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Anyone know why my qnix qx2710 won't show up under Color Management. I want to load a color profile, but it only shows my other Samsung monitor and a printer.

Also, it doesn't show in Color Sutainer, just in Nvidia control panel named as "DUAL DVI".... weird.


----------



## okashira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Random, unlikely, and pretty rare to get a sample with no glow. They seem to be Eizo CX2736W panels as only that monitor is IPS and has no glow.
> 
> AFAIK the vast vast majority of these monitors have no PWM. I've seen two or three cases max at ~160Hz.


I see, thanks. :-/
It seems like it would be a totally different panel. It's a significant difference - can't be just panel to panel variance. Why would they randonly throw in a glow free model.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Anyone know why my qnix qx2710 won't show up under Color Management. I want to load a color profile, but it only shows my other Samsung monitor and a printer.
> 
> Also, it doesn't show in Color Sutainer, just in Nvidia control panel named as "DUAL DVI".... weird.


Seems like there's a driver- / Windows-side issue with returning the monitor information requested. Tried a driver reinstall or using another DVI port? Also, have you added any custom resolutions or is the monitor still left as-is?

Try ListDisplays, too, and post the output file here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *okashira*
> 
> I see, thanks. :-/
> It seems like it would be a totally different panel. It's a significant difference - can't be just panel to panel variance. Why would they randonly throw in a glow free model.


Yeah, totally different panel. That's what things point to at this point. There are other reasons that point to the different panel theory but I will discuss them at length when data becomes more abundant (and collected).


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Seems like there's a driver- / Windows-side issue with returning the monitor information requested. Tried a driver reinstall or using another DVI port? Also, have you added any custom resolutions or is the monitor still left as-is?
> Yeah, totally different panel. That's what things point to at this point. There are other reasons that point to the different panel theory but I will discuss them at length when data becomes more abundant (and collected).


Now that I think about it, maybe I deleted it using CRU...

Any way to get it back?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Now that I think about it, maybe I deleted it using CRU...
> 
> Any way to get it back?


Reset-all.exe in CRU folder and you're good to go.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Reset-all.exe in CRU folder and you're good to go.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Reset-all.exe in CRU folder and you're good to go.


That only restored the settings for the monitors there, it didn't revert them all back.

EDIT:
Uninstalled both monitors w/ drivers in Device Manager, restarted, that did it. Working again.

Now to find a good color profile =)


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> That only restored the settings for the monitors there, it didn't revert them all back.


Replug monitor, ToastyX's restart.zip, reinstall drivers?


----------



## htapocysp

Got my qnix 2710 from storewithstory. zero dead pixels and no blb at all. super happy.


----------



## okashira

Congrats!
Does yours have off angle glow? Any pics


----------



## wntrsnowg

Renamed the thread for clarity and so people will use the info that I worked so hard to collect in the first post!


----------



## davomyster

I have a Shimian and a Qnix. Can I take off the bezels and make them look nice next to each other? Would they match? Currently, the Shimian bezel is has white trim and one is larger than the other. It's a small thing, but the difference bugs me!


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htapocysp*
> 
> Got my qnix 2710 from storewithstory. zero dead pixels and no blb at all. super happy.


I've been watching your posts... You ordered the same model as me , got it from the same seller as me, got notified of it's arrival at the same time as me, and received yours at the same time as me. I also have 0 bad pixels and it's very difficult to detect backlight bleed. I don't know if you've overclocked yours yet, but I have. I got mine to 120hz in one click and have verified that it's not skipping frames nor producing any artifacts or even a perceptible gamma shift. I guess if you want to be nit-picky there is a tiny bit of panel play, (it sits low) but it's not enough to cover any pixels up. The only reason i noticed was because there was a 2-3 mm gap between the top row of pixels and the bezel.

FOR THE OP: I paid $364.98 - it's the Matte version - bought from storewithstory.

Point is, you may be incredibly lucky and have just as much of a good time overclocking!

FYI: I'm running this on a single 290x, and using the stock DVI-D cable. If it matters, I tried it in crossfire too and it was fine.

So yeah, perfect monitor, all I have to do now is calibrate the color!

EDIT: Looks like you also have a 290x You're starting to creep me out!

96hz: PERFECT
120hz: PERFECT
130hz: 3-5 various pixels begin to flicked red, could be more, I switched back promptly
140hz: works terrible, I get major display corruption (?) where every pixel begins tweaking out.

130hz+Reduced DVI Frequency: PERFECT
140hz+Reduced DVI Frequency: Minimal display corruption - 3 horizontal lines that looks like flickering grey, and a small haze of flickering pixels along the top of the monitor (other pixels blink throughout too)

MY QUESTION: How do you it to remember the refresh rate you chose when you restart windows 8.1?

___

Screenshot time!
Here's me playing Xenoblade Chronicles for the Wii @ 2560x1440



Here's me playing Shadow of the Colossus on the PS2 @ 2560x1440



Final Boss:


----------



## wisecrack

So I have been wondering do you guys keep the same brightness setting for your desktop and just up the brightness in game or do you physically adjust the brightness on the monitor each time you play a game?

Hope that make sense


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> Screenshot time!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's me playing Xenoblade Chronicles for the Wii @ 2560x1440
> 
> 
> 
> Here's me playing Shadow of the Colossus on the PS2 @ 2560x1440
> 
> 
> 
> Final Boss:


Did you use an emulator for those games? Looks amazing for that res.


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Did you use an emulator for those games? Looks amazing for that res.


Yep! The emulators have an internal resolution setting so the game will re-render the textures and everything in a high resolution! The Wii one is set to a 4x multiplier of the original resolution (640x480) resulting in 2560x1920, but it is forced a 16:9 ratio so the OSD is in the right place. As for the PS2, it's rendering at 5x the native resolution of this particular (512x448) game resulting in 2560x2240

As for the framerates.. Xenoblade is supposed to render at 25FPS, but I have it patched to 30. SotC plays at 60FPS. It's really too bad I can't fully utilize the refresh rate of the monitor, not that I expected it would! If only they had something like SVP to interpolate extra frames for 3d games as well.


----------



## bcham

yea im playing resident evil remake at 1440p. looks good.


----------



## brialee8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> Yep! The emulators have an internal resolution setting so the game will re-render the textures and everything in a high resolution! The Wii one is set to a 4x multiplier of the original resolution (640x480) resulting in 2560x1920, but it is forced a 16:9 ratio so the OSD is in the right place. As for the PS2, it's rendering at 5x the native resolution of this particular (512x448) game resulting in 2560x2240
> 
> As for the framerates.. Xenoblade is supposed to render at 25FPS, but I have it patched to 30. SotC plays at 60FPS. It's really too bad I can't fully utilize the refresh rate of the monitor, not that I expected it would! If only they had something like SVP to interpolate extra frames for 3d games as well.


Make sure you get those HD textures for Xenoblade too! Looks amazing at 1440p!


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep its because most courier company's only deal at the weekends with extra paid to delivery weekend packages at the weekend...it will be on its way to you now!....you will most likly find its delivered tommorrow


Thanks - Good News!

Its been released by Customs - with a £35 Charge (result!). But unfortunately I can't pay till its at my local Parcelforce depot, which will be tomorrow.

Although when its there, I can just go pay for it and collect it - tempting...


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wisecrack*
> 
> So I have been wondering do you guys keep the same brightness setting for your desktop and just up the brightness in game or do you physically adjust the brightness on the monitor each time you play a game?
> 
> Hope that make sense


Once I have it set where I like it, I don't touch the brightness control on the monitor. I just use the one in whatever game.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Renamed the thread for clarity and so people will use the info that I worked so hard to collect in the first post!


I would make sure you edit the toasty guide, to make sure you mention the patcher for SLI etc
Especially the driver.

ie. you don't need CRU for nvidia.


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> Make sure you get those HD textures for Xenoblade too! Looks amazing at 1440p!


I actually do have the HD texture pack too!


----------



## Chowchilla

looking at your vids @Totally Dubbed i have the exact same issue with my monitor when i try for 120hz (Green lines and whatnot) might get a better DVI-D cable, see if i can get to 120. Not that i care much, my GTX770 isnt cut out for 120hz gaming i think


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> looking at your vids @Totally Dubbed i have the exact same issue with my monitor when i try for 120hz (Green lines and whatnot) might get a better DVI-D cable, see if i can get to 120. Not that i care much, my GTX770 isnt cut out for 120hz gaming i think


haha!
Well I've actually realised something else:
When I go to 110hz -> the screen takes a LONG LONG time to pop on (when I say long, I'm speaking over 2-3mins for it to pop up with windows).
I'm pretty sure it's SLI related - so I'm keeping it at 96hz


----------



## iCrap

I need to run one of my monitors of DisplayPort to get Eyefinity to work properly.... apparently my current display port to DVI adapter does not work (black screen...)
Anyone know which adapters will support 2560x1440 and will work with these monitors?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha!
> Well I've actually realised something else:
> When I go to 110hz -> the screen takes a LONG LONG time to pop on (when I say long, I'm speaking over 2-3mins for it to pop up with windows).
> I'm pretty sure it's SLI related - so I'm keeping it at 96hz


how odd.. i just went to test mine at 110hz again and now i have green lines also.. hmm..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> how odd.. i just went to test mine at 110hz again and now i have green lines also.. hmm..


haha it's like our monitors are somewhat linked








I'm happy at 96hz - don't see myself noticing that much difference (actually none between 110 and 96).
But tbh, I haven't noticed any difference between my LG @70hz and the QNIX @96hz.
Either the LG was just an amazing panel (which it was) - or my eyes aren't really registering a difference.

At least that's my honest opinion. Might change if I'm on the QNIX for a certain duration and decide to go back to the LG.

Either/or - absolutely love my QNIX.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha it's like our monitors are somewhat linked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm happy at 96hz - don't see myself noticing that much difference (actually none between 110 and 96).
> But tbh, I haven't noticed any difference between my LG @70hz and the QNIX @96hz.
> Either the LG was just an amazing panel (which it was) - or my eyes aren't really registering a difference.
> 
> At least that's my honest opinion. Might change if I'm on the QNIX for a certain duration and decide to go back to the LG.
> 
> Either/or - absolutely love my QNIX.


Agreeed. coming from a 22" sammy this a dream


----------



## lightsout

Whats up guys. I have my monitor running with xfire 270's and everything is great. I tried to install COD4. Whenever I get past the splash screen the monitor goes in the flashing colors mode. I can hear the game but the monitor just cycles through red,blue, green etc.

This is the only game its ever done this with. Happens at 60hz or 120hz. Any ideas?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Whats up guys. I have my monitor running with xfire 270's and everything is great. I tried to install COD4. Whenever I get past the splash screen the monitor goes in the flashing colors mode. I can hear the game but the monitor just cycles through red,blue, green etc.
> 
> This is the only game its ever done this with. Happens at 60hz or 120hz. Any ideas?


colour profiles maybe? Just a guess
Or maybe even brightness levels?


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Ordered mine on Friday, showed up on Monday morning. Excellent! Ordered the perfect pixel Matte Version, no dead pixels, very little backlight bleed. Very happy.

I overclocked to 100hz, and I'm wondering if the extra 20Hz is even worth it? Is it noticeable? Or is the margin so small that it's not worth it? Also, does it reduce the lifespan of my monitor the closer I get to 120hz?

thanks!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Whats up guys. I have my monitor running with xfire 270's and everything is great. I tried to install COD4. Whenever I get past the splash screen the monitor goes in the flashing colors mode. I can hear the game but the monitor just cycles through red,blue, green etc.
> 
> This is the only game its ever done this with. Happens at 60hz or 120hz. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> colour profiles maybe? Just a guess
> Or maybe even brightness levels?
Click to expand...

Of the monitor? Weird that they would only cause problems with that game.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Of the monitor? Weird that they would only cause problems with that game.


no idea really - just spurting out ideas, that might lead to the source


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Of the monitor? Weird that they would only cause problems with that game.
> 
> 
> 
> no idea really - just spurting out ideas, that might lead to the source
Click to expand...

I appreciate it. MAybe if I can reset the game settings somehow. Have to do some googling.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I appreciate it. MAybe if I can reset the game settings somehow. Have to do some googling.


Another monitor maybe? Try and see?
Maybe the game doesn't accept the 1440p input (seeing as it is quite old)


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Sorry if this has already been addressed,
But is there a way to hook my XBOX ONE to my QNIX QX2710? Do I need special cable?

Thanks!


----------



## corsom

I believe you can hook up the monitor to any standard DVI port -- if you don't have dual link, however, you will only get 1080p (xbox one can't do any higher than that anyway)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Sorry if this has already been addressed,
> But is there a way to hook my XBOX ONE to my QNIX QX2710? Do I need special cable?
> 
> Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corsom*
> 
> I believe you can hook up the monitor to any standard DVI port -- if you don't have dual link, however, you will only get 1080p (xbox one can't do any higher than that anyway)


Your XBOX one basically won't work with this monitor.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Sorry if this has already been addressed,
> But is there a way to hook my XBOX ONE to my QNIX QX2710? Do I need special cable?
> 
> Thanks!


no it won't work


----------



## corsom

Question for people who have had dark patches on their Qnixes -- how do you fix this? I'm a bit confused on how/if the tape mod works with this kind of issue (I understand how it works with BLB)

I've got the same dark spot that rushstrike described (that's stickied by OP): http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/290#post_19747446

Specifically this: http://cdn.overclock.net/9/99/99fbd4c2_darkregion.png

I was watching the videos of the tear-down on the Qnix monitor -- is the dark patch caused because there's not enough pressure on the panel on the right side of the monitor, and will adding some tape to the foam bumper apply more pressure to the back of the panel eliminate the dark spot?

Thanks!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I appreciate it. MAybe if I can reset the game settings somehow. Have to do some googling.
> 
> 
> 
> Another monitor maybe? Try and see?
> Maybe the game doesn't accept the 1440p input (seeing as it is quite old)
Click to expand...

Got it working with COD4.

In case anyone has this problem , I had to edit the cfg file. Changing to 2560x1440 did not work. But when I set it to 1920x1080 the game loaded. I can then change to 1440p in the game settings.

I happened to have some old save files though. Without that there was no profile created so the cfg file did not exist yet.

More info
http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/92890-changing-cod4-resolution/


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> no it won't work


Why won't it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Got it working with COD4.
> 
> In case anyone has this problem , I had to edit the cfg file. Changing to 2560x1440 did not work. But when I set it to 1920x1080 the game loaded. I can then change to 1440p in the game settings.
> 
> I happened to have some old save files though. Without that there was no profile created so the cfg file did not exist yet.
> 
> More info
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/92890-changing-cod4-resolution/


ah ha - so my second guess was right about it not being able to display 1440p







!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Got it working with COD4.
> 
> In case anyone has this problem , I had to edit the cfg file. Changing to 2560x1440 did not work. But when I set it to 1920x1080 the game loaded. I can then change to 1440p in the game settings.
> 
> I happened to have some old save files though. Without that there was no profile created so the cfg file did not exist yet.
> 
> More info
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/92890-changing-cod4-resolution/


Hint for CoD4, set r_ignorehwgamma 1 in console commands and the game will use the loaded system color profile. Same goes for the other CoD games as they're made with that engine too. I've only failed to do so with Black Ops II because it seems the cfg file is encrypted.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Why won't it?


it simply won't work yeah.
Apparently the QNIX needs a scaler, which it doesn't have, thus the Xbox won't be able to display 1440p.


----------



## corsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> it simply won't work yeah.
> Apparently the QNIX needs a scaler, which it doesn't have, thus the Xbox won't be able to display 1440p.


Out of curiosity, though, wouldn't the Xbox be able to use the monitor at 1080p?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Got it working with COD4.
> 
> In case anyone has this problem , I had to edit the cfg file. Changing to 2560x1440 did not work. But when I set it to 1920x1080 the game loaded. I can then change to 1440p in the game settings.
> 
> I happened to have some old save files though. Without that there was no profile created so the cfg file did not exist yet.
> 
> More info
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/92890-changing-cod4-resolution/
> 
> 
> 
> ah ha - so my second guess was right about it not being able to display 1440p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
Click to expand...

The game actually does 1440p just fine. It was just starting off with a weird res that the monitor didn't like. Now that I changed it to 1440 in game it works like any other game would.


----------



## okashira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corsom*
> 
> Out of curiosity, though, wouldn't the Xbox be able to use the monitor at 1080p?


The xbox cannot output 2560x1440, period. The monitor is a direct link DVI to panel monitor (which is what makes it great...)
It needs 2560x1440 input.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corsom*
> 
> Out of curiosity, though, wouldn't the Xbox be able to use the monitor at 1080p?


The monitor doesn't work with 1080p input. It's not a Dell or a Samsung or anything else. It works with 1440p. And pretty much nothing else. 720p is hit or miss, some monitors and video combinations work with it, but that's a small slice.


----------



## Chowchilla

Just tightened the screws on the DVI-D cable and 110hz works again. Bizarro!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is the profile I am using right now, its my favorite. 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness, 96hz around 123 cd/m white point.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


Thanks for this, my goto profile now.


----------



## corsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The monitor doesn't work with 1080p input. It's not a Dell or a Samsung or anything else. It works with 1440p. And pretty much nothing else. 720p is hit or miss, some monitors and video combinations work with it, but that's a small slice.


Ah, interesting. I assumed that because I could change my resolution to 1080p that meant it could just be flat out used as a 1080p monitor. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corsom*
> 
> Ah, interesting. I assumed that because I could change my resolution to 1080p that meant it could just be flat out used as a 1080p monitor. Thanks for the clarification.


that'll be your GPU scaling it.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

I thought XBOX upscales? If we got a 1440P HDMI to DVI cable, why wouldn't the XBOX One upscale it like a PC can?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Just tightened the screws on the DVI-D cable and 110hz works again. Bizarro!
> Thanks for this, my goto profile now.


Another happy customer, I am profile MASTAAAAAAAAAAAAA.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Another happy customer, I am profile MASTAAAAAAAAAAAAA.


yup don't see myself going to stock or any other profile - yours hits the nail on the head!


----------



## DiceAir

ok so I'm running the following system

MSI b75a-g43 gaming (other motherboard broke so had to get something while wait for new chips)
i7-3770k
AMD R9-280x royalking
16GB 1600mhz Corsair Vengeance ram
windows 8.1

Before I had this screen on 110hz but i had 2 cards and now down to 1 card cause this motherboard can only take 1.

BTW my question is should you guys suggest me running 96hz on this monitor or should I rather have a bit better graphics and lower hz? Seeing as some games coming might not perform as good should I rather make myself use to 60hz again.

I only tested BF4 so long and so far on high not dipping below 60fps thanks to mantle.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yup don't see myself going to stock or any other profile - yours hits the nail on the head!


Helping others is why I am around tech forums, learn things, spread the love, its all good.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> I thought XBOX upscales? If we got a 1440P HDMI to DVI cable, why wouldn't the XBOX One upscale it like a PC can?


Two problems here.

1. XBOX doesn't upscale.
2. HDMI isn't compatible with DL-DVI.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> ok so I'm running the following system
> 
> MSI b75a-g43 gaming (other motherboard broke so had to get something while wait for new chips)
> i7-3770k
> AMD R9-280x royalking
> 16GB 1600mhz Corsair Vengeance ram
> windows 8.1
> 
> Before I had this screen on 110hz but i had 2 cards and now down to 1 card cause this motherboard can only take 1.
> 
> BTW my question is should you guys suggest me running 96hz on this monitor or should I rather have a bit better graphics and lower hz. Seeing as some games coming might not perform as good should I rather make myself use to 60hz again.
> 
> I only tested BF4 so long and so far on high not dipping below 60fps thanks to mantle.


Just run 96hz till you have xfire again, tweak games to get the best possible FPS without making it look horrible. BF4 can run quite a bit smoother with just 2 settings changed. The 2 settings right above HBAO on the right.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Two problems here.
> 
> 1. XBOX doesn't upscale.
> 2. HDMI isn't compatible with DL-DVI.


I've actually got a DVI-D to HDMI adapter.
Might just give it a whirl for the hell of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Just run 96hz till you have xfire again, tweak games to get the best possible FPS without making it look horrible. BF4 can run quite a bit smoother with just 2 settings changed. The 2 settings right above HBAO on the right.


BTW why don't you have AA on high?
I've set it to high - works fine with the SLI 680s


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I've actually got a DVI-D to HDMI adapter.
> Might just give it a whirl for the hell of it.
> BTW why don't you have AA on high?
> I've set it to high - works fine with the SLI 680s


I dunno, just read it would run better using those 2 settings, so I changed it and left it at that.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Just run 96hz till you have xfire again, tweak games to get the best possible FPS without making it look horrible. BF4 can run quite a bit smoother with just 2 settings changed. The 2 settings right above HBAO on the right.


You think the r9-280x will do a fine job?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> I thought XBOX upscales? If we got a 1440P HDMI to DVI cable, why wouldn't the XBOX One upscale it like a PC can?


No the xbox can "upscale" games with a form of aliasing, but it CAN'T do the scaling and relies on the monitor to do scaling. So if you had an official 1440p monitor(not overclockable) you could connect it and the internal scaler should allow the xbox to work. However this would induce more aliasing(as the xbox1 only does 900p anyways) making the picture worse(aside from the color benefits of IPS and only regarding pixel to pixel).


----------



## DirtNasty

Between the Qnix and the Crossover, which one has the better color accuracy and overall build quality (price non withstanding)


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtNasty*
> 
> Between the Qnix and the Crossover, which one has the better color accuracy and overall build quality (price non withstanding)


The Qnix vs crossover argument is IPS vs PLS so i would read into that for your answer(i prefer PLS but that is an opinion as they are too close for it to be a settled case). The crossover definitely has a better build quality unless you get the "blade" variant which has the exact same bezel.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> You think the r9-280x will do a fine job?


Only one way to know.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> You think the r9-280x will do a fine job?


Perhaps you should have Google'd some 280x reviews before buying 2 of them? It's not to late...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I've actually got a DVI-D to HDMI adapter.
> Might just give it a whirl for the hell of it.


These monitors will not work with a console, even when the system is set to 720p first.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtNasty*
> 
> Between the Qnix and the Crossover, which one has the better color accuracy and overall build quality (price non withstanding)


Most of the Crossovers are glossy or use Plasma Deposition Coating. The Matte Qnix QX2710/X-Star DP2710 and Crossover 2755AMG/2763AMG and 27QW DP (these Crossovers use Plasma Deposition Coating) all have excellent color accuracy.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtNasty*
> 
> Between the Qnix and the Crossover, which one has the better color accuracy and overall build quality (price non withstanding)


Another thing to consider is the support here. Way more of us have the Qnix, so getting profiles, answers for issues etc, will be much more common.


----------



## DirtNasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Another thing to consider is the support here. Way more of us have the Qnix, so getting profiles, answers for issues etc, will be much more common.


Noted on both points. I should also mention that i'm not looking for OC ability over color accuracy, if that makes a difference at all. I just need a replacement monitor ASAP and there's so many different brands and models out there now, its mind boggling. Last time I looked hard at these as an option, the Yamakasi's were "it"


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtNasty*
> 
> Noted on both points. I should also mention that i'm not looking for OC ability over color accuracy, if that makes a difference at all. I just need a replacement monitor ASAP and there's so many different brands and models out there now, its mind boggling. Last time I looked hard at these as an option, the Yamakasi's were "it"


I have mine all calibrated and running at 96hz. Consider overclocking a nice bonus. Might as well do it since you can with these. The stand is the worse part of the Qnix and looks to be the same as the Crossover, Monoprice stand works awesome for me. The Qnix are selling like hot cakes, one thing I have learned about on the web, is buying what a lot of people are buying is usually the way to go.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Perhaps you should have Google'd some 280x reviews before buying 2 of them? It's not to late...
> These monitors will not work with a console, even when the system is set to 720p first.
> Most of the Crossovers are glossy or use Plasma Deposition Coating. The Matte Qnix QX2710/X-Star DP2710 and Crossover 2755AMG/2763AMG and 27QW DP (these Crossovers use Plasma Deposition Coating) all have excellent color accuracy.


The thing is I can't crossfire due to my old motherboard whent faulty but waiting for new chips now then i will upgrade again. it was fine when I had it so yeah. planning on getting maxwell when it comes out anyway.


----------



## DirtNasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Perhaps you should have Google'd some 280x reviews before buying 2 of them? It's not to late...
> These monitors will not work with a console, even when the system is set to 720p first.
> Most of the Crossovers are glossy or use Plasma Deposition Coating. The Matte Qnix QX2710/X-Star DP2710 and Crossover 2755AMG/2763AMG and 27QW DP (these Crossovers use Plasma Deposition Coating) all have excellent color accuracy.


So I take it the Glossy Qnix is on the worse side of things since you specifically pointed out Matte, shame cause I normally prefer glossy over matte.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> You think the r9-280x will do a fine job?


It will be hard for it - you definitely can't run it at those settings.
Medium - high is the settings you'll be looking at


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtNasty*
> 
> So I take it the Glossy Qnix is on the worse side of things since you specifically pointed out Matte, shame cause I normally prefer glossy over matte.


The glossy Qnix/X-Star have very good color accuracy but suffer from light black crush. The glossy Qnix/X-Stars cost 700$+ now anyway, so you will probably want to buy matte version if you want to overclock.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> It will be hard for it - you definitely can't run it at those settings.
> Medium - high is the settings you'll be looking at


I tried high settings and medium lighting and seems fine. I'm doing a framerate limit on 95 and so far so good


----------



## lasttimei

Guys should i start with color calibration profiles or oc?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> Guys should i start with color calibration profiles or oc?


OC first - both are very quick and easy though


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I need to run one of my monitors of DisplayPort to get Eyefinity to work properly.... apparently my current display port to DVI adapter does not work (black screen...)
> Anyone know which adapters will support 2560x1440 and will work with these monitors?


I have successfully used the Accell B087B-007B DisplayPort/Mini DisplayPort to DVI-D Dual-Link Adapter with 3D Support. The Accell UltraAV B087B-002B DisplayPort/DVI-D Dual-Link Adapter did not work for me.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> Guys should i start with color calibration profiles or oc?


oc first then color calibration


----------



## lasttimei

Thanks, do i have to update the monitor driver?
getting a error message: The third-party INF does not contain a digital signature information.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> Thanks, do i have to update the monitor driver?
> getting a error message: The third-party INF does not contain a digital signature information.


The driver just makes it so the monitor is recognized as the Qnix instead of a generic PnP.


----------



## lasttimei

Thanks, Monitor is great No dead pixels, haven't checked for extreme blb from what i can tell don't see any but it's still day time.
oc 96hz, tried 120 green line 110 green line 105 perfect but just went down to 96hz,.used the asus_pb278q,
looks great but i do have to say the white doesn't look extremely white,Still better then some other profile i used.
I'll download more profiles later to see what's good








Got it from Storewithstory, looks like hes not selling ultimate pixels o,o anymore idk.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331134376244?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> Thanks, Monitor is great No dead pixels, haven't checked for extreme blb from what i can tell don't see any but it's still day time.
> oc 96hz, tried 120 green line 110 green line 105 perfect but just went down to 96hz,.used the asus_pb278q,
> looks great but i do have to say the white doesn't look extremely white,Still better then some other profile i used.
> I'll download more profiles later to see what's good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it from Storewithstory, looks like hes not selling ultimate pixels o,o anymore idk.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/331134376244?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


Try my latest profile.

ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


----------



## larrytek7

So i've been trying lots of different icc color files to see what looks best and also match my X-Star DP2710 and QNIX QX2710MDP. I've decided on the "DELL U2711 Custom Color" which looks fantastic. However, I've come to the realization that there is a different matte finish on each of these monitors. No matter what changes I make there is always a darker slightly yellow tint on the DP2710 compared to the QX2710MDP.

I'm thinking about contacting the seller of the QX2710MDP and seeing if he can guarantee the same matte finish on a QX2710 D-DVI only model. If so I might pick one up and sell my X-Star. Any thoughts?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> Thanks, Monitor is great No dead pixels, haven't checked for extreme blb from what i can tell don't see any but it's still day time.
> oc 96hz, tried 120 green line 110 green line 105 perfect but just went down to 96hz,.used the asus_pb278q,
> looks great but i do have to say the white doesn't look extremely white,Still better then some other profile i used.
> I'll download more profiles later to see what's good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it from Storewithstory, looks like hes not selling ultimate pixels o,o anymore idk.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/331134376244?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


a few of us recently (myself included) bought from him.
Yeah it would seem as if his ran out of them lol


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> So i've been trying lots of different icc color files to see what looks best and also match my X-Star DP2710 and QNIX QX2710MDP. I've decided on the "DELL U2711 Custom Color" which looks fantastic. However, I've come to the realization that there is a different matte finish on each of these monitors. No matter what changes I make there is always a darker slightly yellow tint on the DP2710 compared to the QX2710MDP.
> 
> I'm thinking about contacting the seller of the QX2710MDP and seeing if he can guarantee the same matte finish on a QX2710 D-DVI only model. If so I might pick one up and sell my X-Star. Any thoughts?


I believe the matte coating used is the same on all the (modern at least) Qnix, X-Star variants, there's no reason to believe otherwise. The matte finish should never be the cause of a visible yellow tint as the coating is color-neutral and only serves to reduce reflections and glare. The downside to the matte coating is that it adds graininess to the monitor's color output as well.

These panels are known to have samples that have more of a yellow tint than others. I've never read one being bluish. Part of the panel variance equation.

If you want to match monitors or at least get them close...you will need a colorimeter. Plain and simple.

Try my profiles.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/coyn2hldsqkzjte/Qnix%20Profiles%20%282014-03-30%29.zip


----------



## lasttimei

nvm got it~


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I have successfully used the Accell B087B-007B DisplayPort/Mini DisplayPort to DVI-D Dual-Link Adapter with 3D Support. The Accell UltraAV B087B-002B DisplayPort/DVI-D Dual-Link Adapter did not work for me.


Crap that's the one im bidding on. Which card did you use it on?


----------



## nerdy1

I got my replacement Qnix Glossy and the monitor is light years better than the original one they shipped me. No dead pixels and zero blb. I have it clocked right now at 96 and I'm sure I could go higher.

On a completely unrelated side not, I was able to OC my Vizio tv to 120hz which I verified with the UFO test. It's there new local dimming set. Once I OC'd it, the monitor menues changed and it went into a PC mode. very cool stuff.


----------



## Peen

Hey guys, new here. Been a lurker since like 2001, member of XtremeSystems...seeems dead now anyways.

So I basically read this entire thread, decided to order one from acccessorieswhole. Shipped Monday, arrived Tuesday in the AM. Crazy fast!

Anyways, I have it all hooked up, no dead pixels. Pretty bad blb on bottom but that was expected. Can't overclock past 96hz too much with GTX670 SLI and shipped DVI cable. No biggie, 96 is enough for now.

There is one problem though that is driving me NUTS already. There is a Google Chrome bar with favorites star burned into the screen pretty bad. The monitor is new, and I do use chrome. Restart and play game and Chrome isn't even running and it's that ugly white bar with star slightly burned into corner. I've had monitor for 3hr's, theres no way I could have done that. I did load an ICC though, but I don't think that could do anything like that!

Anyone else have anything like this happen?

I didn't see anything like this in thread, maybe I missed it.

Thanks!

EDIT: I found some info on the burn that only happens when OC'ed. Guess I'll just wait it out


----------



## Peen

Picture of said burn.


Another pic next to LG IPS235. This monitor looked great for a 23" IPS. Supposed to be calibrated from factory, but honestly I think the Samsung PLS panel looks better.


----------



## larrytek7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I believe the matte coating used is the same on all the (modern at least) Qnix, X-Star variants, there's no reason to believe otherwise. The matte finish should never be the cause of a visible yellow tint as the coating is color-neutral and only serves to reduce reflections and glare. The downside to the matte coating is that it adds graininess to the monitor's color output as well.
> 
> These panels are known to have samples that have more of a yellow tint than others. I've never read one being bluish. Part of the panel variance equation.
> 
> If you want to match monitors or at least get them close...you will need a colorimeter. Plain and simple.
> 
> Try my profiles.
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/coyn2hldsqkzjte/Qnix%20Profiles%20%282014-03-30%29.zip


Your 6500K g2.2 profile is awesome! I'm going to stick with that one. Thanks man!

BTW, see the response from the seller below. According to them they are different panels.
Quote:


> The monitor we sent was QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPmulti TRUE10 [Matte].
> The panel is different from X-Star monitor.
> 
> The panel of Qnix True10 monitor is AH-VA panel.
> We don't have AH-VA panel monitor with DVI-D only.
> At the end of this week, we will launch a new Qnix AH-VA monitor with DVI-D and HDMI.
> 
> - accessorieswhole


----------



## Forceman

The True10 is a different panel, but the QX2710 and QX2710MDP should be the same panel. The MDP is just the multi-input version.

Do you know if you actually got a True10?


----------



## SLNC

So I got my QX2710 single input monitor and I'm very happy with it, but the panel doesn't seem to be quite centered right.

It doesn't have any play, but it is a bit closer to the lower bezel than it is to the upper. (not more then 7 pixels)

Now the monitor doesn't have any form of OSD, so I'm looking for software that can help me adjust the position of the picture. I haven't seen any options in my graphics driver and I'm not sure you can do this on a DVI connection...


----------



## MikeHawk

Nvidia or AMD? You should be able to rescale thru software. I had to do it all the time on my CRT HDTV lol.

Although you won't be doing a true 2560x1440 then, wonder what that'll impact. Hmm.


----------



## SLNC

AMD.

Why wouldn't I be doing true 1440p then?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

im so frustrated with my monitor. I know i'm not the only one who has to choose between overclocking my 290x xfire setup or the monitor. I have seen other people post the same issue and even received pms asking me if I have ever found a fix or a reason for it. The answer is I have never found a fix or a reason for it..

I could hit 110hz all day on my 7950 xfire setup









nothing seems to be "wrong" with my monitor or my graphics cards I just can't overclock both at the same time.

btw I know plenty of people with 290's have no issues but that doesn't help me figure out my issue.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLNC*
> 
> So I got my QX2710 single input monitor and I'm very happy with it, but the panel doesn't seem to be quite centered right.
> 
> It doesn't have any play, but it is a bit closer to the lower bezel than it is to the upper. (not more then 7 pixels)
> 
> Now the monitor doesn't have any form of OSD, so I'm looking for software that can help me adjust the position of the picture. I haven't seen any options in my graphics driver and I'm not sure you can do this on a DVI connection...


Are you sure the panel itself isn't just off-center? Mine is. If it is (which is likely) the only way to adjust it would be to take the bezel off and fix it manually. These are known for having some play in the panel - there's a section about it in the OP.


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLNC*
> 
> AMD.
> 
> Why wouldn't I be doing true 1440p then?


You would be shrinking your display to counter act the effect of your panel not being centered in the bezel. Just take the bezel off and fix it physically. It's not hard to take the bezel off, there are plenty of YT vids showing how.

-edit, lol, beat by Forceman


----------



## SLNC

Well, I guess I'll have a look at that then.


----------



## Chowchilla

@lasttimei try tightening up the dvi screws. I got faint green lines after I did some cable management and forgot to fully tighten.

@larrytek7 dream-seller said the same thing to me a few weeks back. Wonder why they won't do single DVI.. it's not like they ain't selling. Doubt they will overclock also.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrytek7*
> 
> Your 6500K g2.2 profile is awesome! I'm going to stick with that one. Thanks man!


Aha, I suspected we might have similar samples since mine comes with a slight yellowish tint by default. Enjoy!
Quote:


> BTW, see the response from the seller below. According to them they are different panels.


That's true, they are.


----------



## Peen

It's really weird, I do 96hz, everything is good. Anything higher works fine except I get weird scanning (is that the word to use??) on webpages, like the greyish border on OC.net. Once I hit 120hz that goes away, but instead in games I get the greenlines. Don't get green likes from 110-116hz..

Actually at 115hz I get the weird scanning problems, 116hz it goes away. Wish it was like PC components and could give me monitor my voltage and water cool it!


----------



## tallbrahh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> overclocking my 290x xfire setup.


Sorry to hear about your problem, unfortunately I don't have a fix for you man

I was just curious though, could you go without overclocking the GPU's?

I mean they are hugely powerful as it as (I have just one), and overclocking in the end will only give you a couple more frames per second. (For my situation, i didn't think overclocking my card for an extra 4 frames per second in BF4 was worth the extra heat and noise produced)

With 2 of these GPU's, you'd easily be hitting 90fps on ultra @1440p with high AA, right?


----------



## lasttimei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peen*
> 
> Picture of said burn.
> 
> 
> Another pic next to LG IPS235. This monitor looked great for a 23" IPS. Supposed to be calibrated from factory, but honestly I think the Samsung PLS panel looks better.


nice case Peen XD, 

@Watagump not so good for me, that profile asus was the best but now the samsung profile.


----------



## Tmplt

I'll try again with what I haven't gotten any answers for; why is my monitor flickering (specifically) in the top-right corner? Even at 96hz I can, with light backgrounds, see horizontal transparent scan-lines flickering within a patch, 1/8 of the screen. It's more noticeable on 110hz, of course but also when the screen's been on for a while. Is the issue here the screen itself, or could it be the provided DVI-D cable that I haven't tried replacing yet? Thank in advance.

Huh, I tried @Watagump's latest profile and I can't see any flickering, nor on 110hz. I'll leave the screen on for a while to see if it comes back.
It just hadn't kicked in yet...


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tmplt*
> 
> I'll try again with what I haven't gotten any answers for; why is my monitor flickering (specifically) in the top-right corner? Even at 96hz I can, with light backgrounds, see horizontal transparent scan-lines flickering within a patch, 1/8 of the screen. It's more noticeable on 110hz, of course but also when the screen's been on for a while. Is the issue here the screen itself, or could it be the provided DVI-D cable that I haven't tried replacing yet? Thank in advance.
> 
> Huh, I tried @Watagump's latest profile and I can't see any flickering, nor on 110hz. I'll leave the screen on for a while to see if it comes back.


mine actually does that if i overclock my monitor to 120hz, i just run 96 and its fine. check CCC to make sure you have reduce dvi frequency as well. there was also one other option available that may fix your issue but I cant remember what it was, think it had to do with an option when making the profile.

Cant say about the cable since I ran a better/ thicker cable from the start but it works fine on my 1080p monitor


----------



## Tmplt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06yfz450ridr*
> 
> ...think it had to do with an option when making the profile.


Something with *Include extension block* maybe? Or anything *LCD/CRT - Standard/Reduced*?

Flickering is back, but there is no difference between 96 and 100hz now. Odd.


----------



## Dadaum

Help! i watched the video to how to remove the lightning bleed on monitor, take all the parts with perfecly care...and now theres a huge black line in my monitor. Can be fixed. please tell it is possible =(


----------



## Tmplt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dadaum*
> 
> Help! i watched the video to how to remove the lightning bleed on monitor, take all the parts with perfecly care...and now theres a huge black line in my monitor. Can be fixed. please tell it is possible =(


It could be that the contacts behind the screen got loosened up.

On the other hand, does taping in that manner prevent BLB? :s


----------



## corsom

So I noticed that I have a dark patch on my monitor, in the lower right:



(the picture makes it seem worse than it is, honestly, but it's still annoying)

How is it that I can fix this? In the original post there's a stickied thing where someone else had the same problem, but the solution was not actually explained -- just said that he opened it up and fixed it.

How would one go about doing this?


----------



## TJD269

Hey guys really irritating problem. After complete randomness, when I duplicate my screens with my QNIX and my 1080p TV, I get artifacts so bad that I can't see. It used to work just fine... then randomly doesn't work. I rolled back my drivers to previous one where I knew it worked... no luck. I updated the monitor driver for the QNIX... no luck. Oddly enough, when I change my resolution of my QNIX to 1080p @ 60hz (My TV's resolution) it works just fine. I tried the other DVI port and nothing. I used CRU reset or whatever to reset everything and STILL nothing. Really frustrating. I will continue to try other drivers. I have a GTX 780 Ti and feel free to check my PC build below if you have any questions about my setup. The picture below is what happens when I try to duplicate the desktop. The TV works fine in that mode. Please help me out guys! Thanks a ton.


----------



## GUNMAN296

Guys, I know this is probably a stupid question, but I just recieved this monitor and have it all set up. The problem is that when I press the power button, the display doesnt turn on and the power led just flickers. If I take out the power cord and plug it back on, the monitor will show red then green. Any ideas? Its the qnix btw


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corsom*
> 
> So I noticed that I have a dark patch on my monitor, in the lower right:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the picture makes it seem worse than it is, honestly, but it's still annoying)
> 
> How is it that I can fix this? In the original post there's a stickied thing where someone else had the same problem, but the solution was not actually explained -- just said that he opened it up and fixed it.
> 
> How would one go about doing this?


Usually the lighting uniformity problems come from a bent metal frame that the panel sits in. Search the thread for help with taking apart the monitor and unbending the metal frame.


----------



## travanx

I give up fooling around with the onboard single link video, so I decided to get an active DVI to displayport adapter to play around with my setup.

So now I have one Qnix into my XFX 7950 with DVI and the other going into the intel onboard video displayport. Can I overclock the 7950 monitor still? I have cru set for 96hz and 120hz. 120hz it gives line and 96hz looks fine. But I go to the website test and it says 60fps. Any ideas?


----------



## Hukkel

What is the word on the newest evolution II version with muliple display outputs and a NON IPS screen?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> What is the word on the newest evolution II version with muliple display outputs and a NON IPS screen?


It sucks, don't buy it. It can't overclock, has low contrast, a high 30ms delay and uses LED PWM Dimming (Side Effects) even though Qnix claims it does not (advertised as flicker free).


----------



## Hukkel

Wow really?
I was watching an advert of it and it said 8ms and overclockable to 120Hz.

I was just wondering since they now claim to not use the PLS screen anymore.


----------



## MenacingTuba

8ms is the manufacturer quoted pixel response time which is as useful as dynamic contrast ratios. Qnix claims they can overclock, but no multi-input 1440p monitor can without dropping the extra frames when set over 60hz.


----------



## Hukkel

So basically all new models are poo?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> So basically all new models are poo?


essentially for OC'ing and gaming yeah - but for photo viewing and multiple inputs, they're decent


----------



## Hukkel

tnx for the info.


----------



## HuwSharpe

Just after some input if anyone is kind enough to give their opinion. Looking to buy a new monitor, debated over some of the 29" 2560x1080 ultra wide screens, but then throught a 27" 2560x1440 would be best for gaming (comments welcome). I have read a number of the posts about the QNIX QX2710 monitor and recently saw one on eBay that took my interest, in large because of the price: eBay Link

Can anyone give there opinion on this, suitable for the avaerage gamer? Would i likely have to pay a customs charge? (been in the UK) I read matte is not as good clarity as gloss, is that correct?

By the way i had dual 27" 1920x1200 for a number of years, one died about a year back so have pretty much got used to one 27".

Thank you in advance.


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It sucks, don't buy it. It can't overclock, has low contrast, a high 30ms delay and uses LED PWM Dimming (Side Effects) even though Qnix claims it does not (advertised as flicker free).


Are you guys talking about the True 10 from qnix


----------



## TJD269

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuwSharpe*
> 
> Just after some input if anyone is kind enough to give their opinion. Looking to buy a new monitor, debated over some of the 29" 2560x1080 ultra wide screens, but then throught a 27" 2560x1440 would be best for gaming (comments welcome). I have read a number of the posts about the QNIX QX2710 monitor and recently saw one on eBay that took my interest, in large because of the price: eBay Link
> 
> Can anyone give there opinion on this, suitable for the avaerage gamer? Would i likely have to pay a customs charge? (been in the UK) I read matte is not as good clarity as gloss, is that correct?
> 
> By the way i had dual 27" 1920x1200 for a number of years, one died about a year back so have pretty much got used to one 27".
> 
> Thank you in advance.


Great for gaming especially if you overclock it. I love it... just make sure you have the horsepower to drive that thing. I have a 780 Ti and it gets the job done but I'd prefer to have 2 of them. I say buy it for the price.


----------



## HuwSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TJD269*
> 
> Great for gaming especially if you overclock it. I love it... just make sure you have the horsepower to drive that thing. I have a 780 Ti and it gets the job done but I'd prefer to have 2 of them. I say buy it for the price.


Thanks for the prompt response. I have a XFX Core Edition Radeon HD 7870, do you think it would cope? Or would a 2560x1080 screen be better for that graphics card?


----------



## niciuffo

So what about the Qnix SE edition? Is it better or worse than the standard edition? It costs way less (370$ instead of 460$), but does it overclock as good and does it have more dead/stuck pixels?


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> So what about the Qnix SE edition? Is it better or worse than the standard edition? It costs way less (370$ instead of 460$), but does it overclock as good and does it have more dead/stuck pixels?


It's just marketing. It's the same thing as the regular Qnix QX2710 but has the possibility of *MORE* dead pixels, hence why it's cheaper.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuwSharpe*
> 
> Just after some input if anyone is kind enough to give their opinion. Looking to buy a new monitor, debated over some of the 29" 2560x1080 ultra wide screens, but then throught a 27" 2560x1440 would be best for gaming (comments welcome). I have read a number of the posts about the QNIX QX2710 monitor and recently saw one on eBay that took my interest, in large because of the price: eBay Link
> 
> Can anyone give there opinion on this, suitable for the avaerage gamer? Would i likely have to pay a customs charge? (been in the UK) I read matte is not as good clarity as gloss, is that correct?
> 
> By the way i had dual 27" 1920x1200 for a number of years, one died about a year back so have pretty much got used to one 27".
> 
> Thank you in advance.


Hey mate!

First of all, I'm from the UK - bought it for £217 incl postage and conversion fees.
£16 was my customs -> it was declared as gift and under £75 value.

I bought the ULTIMATE PERFECT PIXEL from storewithstory. Got no complaints, arrived here within 6 days.

I suggest the QNIX QX2710 (not the MULTIPLE input one, NOR the True10 models) - 1440p as a casual gamer myself is excellent, but not only that the beautiful 1440p on my monitor for browsing etc.
My panel OC's to 110hz, but I keep it at 96hz personally.

If you're going to get a perfect pixel - bear in mind some might have 0-2 pixel policy. So bear that in mind.

As for gaming resolution - don't go ultra widescreen at 1080P - some games don't even support it and if others do, it will look weird.
Your GPU SHOULD be able to just cut out say medium on BF4


----------



## MikeHawk

Also, Huw. I purchased from that ebay auction, was the first one to buy actually. I made the order Saturday morning at 2am. It was shipped Monday and arrived in the middle of the USA on Wednesday.

Box was not padded with outside foam like some are but the box was fine. I have yet to turn the monitor on but physically it looks perfect. Will hopefully have some time to play with it tonight and report back.


----------



## thanksinadvance

I've had my Qnix for around a month now and recently OC it to 120. While i was playing poker today (i dont play games on pc) i noticed a white line go across screen real fast. I ran the monitor test and it passes 120 for about 8 seconds then says possible error then says its valid again. It doesn't do this if i set it at 100. Do you think the white line was because it can't handle 120 or could something else be wrong.


----------



## MikeHawk

OC artifacts sometimes take a few min before they show up, sounds like yours isn't stable and will need to be turned down.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thanksinadvance*
> 
> I've had my Qnix for around a month now and recently OC it to 120. While i was playing poker today (i dont play games on pc) i noticed a white line go across screen real fast. I ran the monitor test and it passes 120 for about 8 seconds then says possible error then says its valid again. It doesn't do this if i set it at 100. Do you think the white line was because it can't handle 120 or could something else be wrong.


I have that "browser thing" issue on 96hz too - nothing to worry about,t hat's the test.
As for the real quick white blur though - sounds as pointed out above - as it isn't stable.

I ran mine at 115hz- it passed, went to windows and then got loads of green lines.

Just dial it back a little.
If you don't game though, why have it so high? Just dial it to 96hz?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thanksinadvance*
> 
> I've had my Qnix for around a month now and recently OC it to 120. While i was playing poker today (i dont play games on pc) i noticed a white line go across screen real fast. I ran the monitor test and it passes 120 for about 8 seconds then says possible error then says its valid again. It doesn't do this if i set it at 100. Do you think the white line was because it can't handle 120 or could something else be wrong.


Mine does a white line at 110hz, I see it moving my mouse when viewing my desktop.


----------



## Overfiend

So my Qnix arrived and there is a massive dark patch on the screen... Do you guys consider this to be acceptable?

It is massively distracting.



Can it be easily fixed?

Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> So my Qnix arrived and there is a massive dark patch on the screen... Do you guys consider this to be acceptable?
> Can it be easily fixed?
> 
> Thanks


Maybe a tape mod, but that's unacceptable for me


----------



## Overfiend

I know right. It's really pissing me off...


----------



## yasamoka

What tape mod? That's a blown LED. Return it of course.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> I know right. It's really pissing me off...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What tape mod? That's a blown LED. Return it of course.


could be the panel not sitting properly - but yeah unacceptable for me.
I would send it back - cost of return on the seller.

Link the seller to this thread, with your post.
If they don't answer within 3 business days - open a case with ebay then link the thread here again and/or images within the case.


----------



## Overfiend

That's the plan.

If the seller refuses to refund/replace, then I reckon ebay will cover me with their 'Money Back Guarantee'.

Anyone can objectively see that this monitor is defective.


----------



## SwiftPolar

I've just gotten a Qnix Qx2710 True10 monitor. I have this weird issue that I'm not able to get the max resolution?

I mean on the windows display settings it is set to 2560x1440 and even on the nVidia control panel it says so.

However looking at the weird resolution outputted infront of me and software (nVidia GeForce Experience) telling me that my display resolution is only 2048x1152? Even in the OSD of the monitor it says [email protected]

Anyone knows what is going on?



EDIT:
If I do print screen and paste in paint it shows that it is 2560x1440 (canvas size). It still does look slightly weird compared to my previous monitor (Achieva Shimian Lite). Are my eyes playing tricks on me or what.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> That's the plan.
> 
> If the seller refuses to refund/replace, then I reckon ebay will cover me with their 'Money Back Guarantee'.
> 
> Anyone can objectively see that this monitor is defective.


Its normal, you should keep it and get another to run a multi setup.


----------



## Overfiend

Sure man. Right after I buy that Ferrari I want, and my gold-plated toilet seat.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftPolar*
> 
> I've just gotten a Qnix Qx2710 True10 monitor. I have this weird issue that I'm not able to get the max resolution?
> 
> I mean on the windows display settings it is set to 2560x1440 and even on the nVidia control panel it says so.
> 
> However looking at the weird resolution outputted infront of me and software (nVidia GeForce Experience) telling me that my display resolution is only 2048x1152? Even in the OSD of the monitor it says [email protected]
> 
> Anyone knows what is going on?
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> If I do print screen and paste in paint it shows that it is 2560x1440 (canvas size). It still does look slightly weird compared to my previous monitor (Achieva Shimian Lite). Are my eyes playing tricks on me or what.


Make sure the QNIX driver is installed bro - and re-install nvidia drivers to be sure.
Then make sure you reboot and see if it changes


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> That's the plan.
> 
> If the seller refuses to refund/replace, then I reckon ebay will cover me with their 'Money Back Guarantee'.
> 
> Anyone can objectively see that this monitor is defective.


Mine had the same thing in the corner. My seller paid return shipping and refunded me no questions asked. Just send the picture and you should be fine, it's clearly defective.


----------



## travanx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Make sure the QNIX driver is installed bro - and re-install nvidia drivers to be sure.
> Then make sure you reboot and see if it changes


Is there a Qnix driver for Windows 8.1?


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *travanx*
> 
> Is there a Qnix driver for Windows 8.1?


Its the same driver that everyone uses. You just have to disable digital signature


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What tape mod? That's a blown LED. Return it of course.


How difficult would it be to get a replacement bulb and fix it myself?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> How difficult would it be to get a replacement bulb and fix it myself?


Might have to take the panel apart and replace the blown LED with an identical component, that's assuming its the LED that's blown and not a more critical PCB / wiring issue. A replacement is your right, take it.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Might have to take the panel apart and replace the blown LED with an identical component, that's assuming its the LED that's blown and not a more critical PCB / wiring issue. A replacement is your right, take it.


Yeah, I know man, but to be honest the rest of the panel is awesome. 120hz stable, great uniformity (well, apart from the blown LED), no backlight bleed. I would even pay for someone to repair it. None of these panels are perfect, but this one would be with this bulb sorted. Kind of don't want to give that up and gamble getting one with bad BLB that doesn't OC well.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Might have to take the panel apart and replace the blown LED with an identical component, that's assuming its the LED that's blown and not a more critical PCB / wiring issue. A replacement is your right, take it.


agreed I would take a replacement and wait it out. If you damage the panel further or open it, it might give the seller the excuse of saying: you tampered with it


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Yeah, I know man, but to be honest the rest of the panel is awesome. 120hz stable, great uniformity (well, apart from the blown LED), no backlight bleed. I would even pay for someone to repair it. None of these panels are perfect, but this one would be with this bulb sorted. Kind of don't want to give that up and gamble getting one with bad BLB that doesn't OC well.


Hmmm I see where you're coming from; problem is that the LEDs might be in the panel casing So a repair might entail opening the panel assembly itself for possible repair. Maybe discuss your thoughts with the seller and see what he has to say? Maybe he knows something we don't.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Hmmm I see where you're coming from; problem is that the LEDs might be in the panel casing So a repair might entail opening the panel assembly itself for possible repair. Maybe discuss your thoughts with the seller and see what he has to say? Maybe he knows something we don't.


Yeah, good idea - I'll check my options first.

I generally take everything those eBay sellers say with a truck-full of salt, though...


----------



## Watagump

Hey everyone, these panels go through STRICT testing before shipping.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Hey everyone, these panels go through STRICT testing before shipping.


I know, right?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Hey everyone, these panels go through STRICT testing before shipping.


HAHAHA! Good one! Too bad you missed April Fools with that one.

Oh, if they don't catch something like _that_... consider what it means for "perfect pixel"/"ultimate perfect pixel". And there've been even worse defects they haven't caught...


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> HAHAHA! Good one! Too bad you missed April Fools with that one.
> 
> Oh, if they don't catch something like _that_... consider what it means for "perfect pixel"/"ultimate perfect pixel". And there've been even worse defects they haven't caught...


There are defects. There are also tons of posts in this thread where pixel perfect has been just that.


----------



## Watagump

Maybe that monitor is not really a defect, maybe its the new Shadow Puppet model.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Yeah, I know man, but to be honest the rest of the panel is awesome. 120hz stable, great uniformity (well, apart from the blown LED), no backlight bleed. I would even pay for someone to repair it. None of these panels are perfect, but this one would be with this bulb sorted. Kind of don't want to give that up and gamble getting one with BLB that doesn't OC well.


I went through the same thought process with mine, but after watching that teardown video I came to the conclusion that trying to replace or fix the bulb was a fool's errand. Even if you could get the led strip off the panel (and it isn't clear from the video that you even can) it is probably just that, a led strip without replaceable bulbs.

My advice, don't mess with it, don't even take the bezel off to "see what it looks like", because all you do in that case is give the seller a reason not to refund it.


----------



## TrainXIII

I know this is a long shot but I tried to do the VESA mount mod after debezelling my Qnix and now my screen is flickering weird colours and I'm not sure what went wrong. I double checked all the connections and they were all plugged in fully nice and snug. Does anyone know what might be the cause of the problem? I know my LCD is not broken because when I unplug of the wires (the one that connects to the top left) the screen starts rotating full colour pixels (red, green, blue) and it can display these colours perfectly. I'm not sure what else to do.


----------



## SwiftPolar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Make sure the QNIX driver is installed bro - and re-install nvidia drivers to be sure.
> Then make sure you reboot and see if it changes


The QNIX drivers are the qnix.inf file thing right? I've updated the monitor to install that file restarted and it still has the same problems.

The monitor is still detected as DVI, is it supposed to change to QX2710 or something?


EDITED: Alright I feel like an utter fool. Its happening cause of the internal windows scaling. Weird how it didn't affect my achieva monitor.


----------



## moonkikang

Ran into a problem today, and well I'm not that knowledgeable about monitors. I often check this thread, so figured hopefully some kind soul may help me.

Long story short, I sell monitors online, and recently had a customer contact me back regarding a recent purchase.

The product in question is a QNIX 2710 Evolution II LED DPmulti. We had the title unfortunately listed as the QNIX 2710 DPort. (We shipped out the DPmulti)

The two products are in identical and specifications, design, panel, etc. From what both my distributor and also the manufacturer tells me is that they are the [exact same product], but they just renamed it in order to raise the price (the DPort was released in June/13, and then the DPmulti December/13). Whether that is 100% true or not, I guess only the manufacturer will know.

Customer contacted me today with the following message:
Quote:


> For my intended use for triple monitor gaming the monitors all need to be identical. I tried setting it up but it appears that the sync polarities are not the same in the DPMulti as they are in the two DPORT models I currently have


Could someone please help me understand the exact problem? I don't see any issue (for ordinary use) that the monitors are different models.

Hoping to possibly receive a solution. If not, we'll have to receive the monitor back from the customer







.

Thank you everyone very much in advance.

EDIT: Okay, after some more research and conversation with the manufacturer: The DPmulti has a different board and is supposed to supported 120Hz. Also some Googling tells me that my customer is trying to use nVidia Surround (?) and the monitors need to be the same polarity for this to work.... Still looking for a possible solution.

EDIT again: PS- Please exclude me from the above hate-- my company actually does thoroughly test our monitors







. Or at least since I've started working here (since I do them myself ^^).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftPolar*
> 
> The QNIX drivers are the qnix.inf file thing right? I've updated the monitor to install that file restarted and it still has the same problems.
> 
> The monitor is still detected as DVI, is it supposed to change to QX2710 or something?
> 
> 
> EDITED: Alright I feel like an utter fool. Its happening cause of the internal windows scaling. Weird how it didn't affect my achieva monitor.


that is the driver indeed, and looks all properly installed









As for "windows scaling" - what do you mean? Would be nice if you posted the solution, in case others face it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> Ran into a problem today, and well I'm not that knowledgeable about monitors. I often check this thread, so figured hopefully some kind soul may help me.
> 
> Long story short, I sell monitors online, and recently had a customer contact me back regarding a recent purchase.
> 
> The product in question is a QNIX 2710 Evolution II LED DPmulti. We had the title unfortunately listed as the QNIX 2710 DPort. (We shipped out the DPmulti)
> 
> The two products are in identical and specifications, design, panel, etc. From what both my distributor and also the manufacturer tells me is that they are the [exact same product], but they just renamed it in order to raise the price (the DPort was released in June/13, and then the DPmulti December/13). Whether that is 100% true or not, I guess only the manufacturer will know.
> 
> Customer contacted me today with the following message:
> Could someone please help me understand the exact problem? I don't see any issue (for ordinary use) that the monitors are different models.
> 
> Hoping to possibly receive a solution. If not, we'll have to receive the monitor back from the customer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thank you everyone very much in advance.
> 
> EDIT: Okay, after some more research and conversation with the manufacturer: The DPmulti has a different board and is supposed to supported 120Hz. Also some Googling tells me that my customer is trying to use nVidia Surround (?) and the monitors need to be the same polarity for this to work.... Still looking for a possible solution.
> 
> EDIT again: PS- Please exclude me from the above hate-- my company actually does thoroughly test our monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Or at least since I've started working here (since I do them myself ^^).


As far as I'm aware none of the DPmulti etc ones do 120hz - that's false advertising by the manufacturers.
-> proven via the True10 model.


----------



## Optimus1978

Morning all

My Qnix has come - and its Awesome - no dead Pixels, and no BLB as far as I can see.

Really could do with a hand on the colour profile piece though - I've clocked to 96, but its really bright.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## moonkikang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As far as I'm aware none of the DPmulti etc ones do 120hz - that's false advertising by the manufacturers.
> -> proven via the True10 model.


Which is really interested, considering that I'm looking right now at a e-mail they sent out to all the sellers containing instructions on how to overclock to 120Hz.

Silly manufacturer.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> Which is really interested, considering that I'm looking right now at a e-mail they sent out to all the sellers containing instructions on how to overclock to 120Hz.
> 
> Silly manufacturer.


well what was their method? Would be good if you shared it with us, as the way to do it is very simple. But checking it's stable and doesn't skip frames is another thing.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Morning all
> 
> My Qnix has come - and its Awesome - no dead Pixels, and no BLB as far as I can see.
> 
> Really could do with a hand on the colour profile piece though - I've clocked to 96, but its really bright.
> 
> Any help appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


Better late than never, congrats








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is the profile I am using right now, its my favorite. 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness, 96hz around 123 cd/m white point.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


i found this profile to work a treat. you can use Colour Sustainer to apply the profile.

If you find that one to be too bright then i also suggest the 6500k profiles from this pack from @yasamoka, the 5000k is perfect for nights.

hope this helps.


----------



## Optimus1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Better late than never, congrats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i found this profile to work a treat. you can use Colour Sustainer to apply the profile.
> 
> If you find that one to be too bright then i also suggest the 6500k profiles from this pack from @yasamoka, the 5000k is perfect for nights.
> 
> hope this helps.


Bigger problem - I can't get any ICC profiles to apply in Windows 8, they make no difference.

I found an article that say you need to run Windows 8 Display colour calibration first, but that errors...:-(

A bit stuck atm.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Optimus1978*
> 
> Bigger problem - I can't get any ICC profiles to apply in Windows 8, they make no difference.
> 
> I found an article that say you need to run Windows 8 Display colour calibration first, but that errors...:-(
> 
> A bit stuck atm.


you shouldn't need to use the the built in ICC profile stuff. Just Colour Sustainer.


----------



## djdynamite123

I'm waiting to receive mine, what do I need to get it all setup easily? Thanks (PS: PC specs in sig builder)


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> I'm waiting to receive mine, what do I need to get it all setup easily? Thanks (PS: PC specs in sig builder)


You need major knowledge in opening boxes and connecting cables.


----------



## djdynamite123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You need major knowledge in opening boxes and connecting cables.


Lol, I mean as in the driver and programs to OC it and to correct all the colors etc. Doesit not have it's own on screen display settings?


----------



## MikeHawk

First post my man. First post.


----------



## djdynamite123

Cheers my mate.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> There are defects. There are also tons of posts in this thread where pixel perfect has been just that.


Indeed, and I do not dispute that. Plenty of PP panels have been "perfect pixel". I don't dispute that at all. My problem is that there's a darker implication behind this blown LED.

The question naturally arises: How the heck did they miss a defect like that? Following from that, if a defect like that can make it through QA, what does that say about the quality of their checks, and what does that imply about the quality of their perfect pixel checks? It gives me no confidence whatsoever that PP provides any tangible benefit.


----------



## i386

Hi all , I had Qnix2710 monitor for about 7 months and it's working fine. I have it plugged in DVI-i port, If I put the cable in dvi-d port the monitor will not get detected. I tried another monitor (dell 19") with the same cable and the monitor worked.I need dvi-i port for my drawing tablet.

graphic card sapphire hd 7970 vapor x

What could be the problem ?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Indeed, and I do not dispute that. Plenty of PP panels have been "perfect pixel". I don't dispute that at all. My problem is that there's a darker implication behind this blown LED.
> 
> The question naturally arises: How the heck did they miss a defect like that? Following from that, if a defect like that can make it through QA, what does that say about the quality of their checks, and what does that imply about the quality of their perfect pixel checks? It gives me no confidence whatsoever that PP provides any tangible benefit.


Yea who knows what checks are done. There's the manufacturer and then there's the resellers.

Like with everything, people like to post their complaints and what's wrong. The success stories don't get posted as often. It seems that there are some resellers checking to make sure that the panels live up to their guarantees.

Who knows. I did a lot of research on sellers and then I got lucky. I would definitely spend the extra $30 for pixel perfect again.


----------



## autobtsrllout

Hey guys.

So I've been thinking about this a lot lately and I'm wondering what someone else might think of the idea.

I'm considering buying another one of these QNIX QX2710's and fixing it up with a new stand, backlight bleed repair, new cables and predetermining what it can be over clocked to and then selling it for maybe $150 more than what i pay.

If you were a consumer (As now that 1440p gains more popularity and transitions to 720p's standard of placement) would purchasing one of these panels for ~450-475$ seem like a good price?

Keeping in mind this would be for someone who wasn't comfortable opening one of these monitors up themselves or needed their hand held in setting one up to be overclocked and color profiles changed.

Just a thought i've had.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i386*
> 
> Hi all , I had Qnix2710 monitor for about 7 months and it's working fine. I have it plugged in DVI-i port, If I put the cable in dvi-d port the monitor will not get detected. I tried another monitor (dell 19") with the same cable and the monitor worked.I need dvi-i port for my drawing tablet.
> 
> graphic card sapphire hd 7970 vapor x
> 
> What could be the problem ?


HD7970 only have 1 dual link DVI port, and it seems that it's the DVI-I port. So the DVI-D port is only single link.


----------



## i386

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> HD7970 only have 1 dual link DVI port, and it seems that it's the DVI-I port. So the DVI-D port is only single link.


I thought single link doesn't have 6 pins in the middle,

So the pins in the middle are fake to accept dual link cables ?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i386*
> 
> I thought single link doesn't have 6 pins in the middle,
> 
> So the pins in the middle are fake to accept dual link cables ?


Yep, that's correct. See the link.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sapphire*
> 1 x HDMI (with 3D)
> 1 x Single-Link DVI-D
> 1 x DisplayPort 1.2
> 1 x Dual-Link DVI-I


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i386*
> 
> I thought single link doesn't have 6 pins in the middle,
> 
> So the pins in the middle are fake to accept dual link cables ?


that picture:
Top is DVI-D
Bottom is DVI-I


----------



## i386

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Yep, that's correct. See the link.


Thanks Kevinsbane


----------



## jack0807

Heyhey Guys,

I almost went through the whole thread and finally decided to buy myself a new toy. Anyways I couldn't really wait for some reviews of the TRUE10 and just went straight on buying it (not my wisest move I know ;P) In the end I am a bit dissappointed, because of the annoying input lag and the incapability of overclocking. I contacted the dealer and asked for a partial refund due to false advertising. They did, of course insist on their opinion, that the monitor can in fact display true 120 hz, and denied my offer. I wrote them that I am gonna open an ebay case, if I didnt get my partial refund, but they still be stubborn. In general I am really content with the monitor, great colors, magnificent resolution and no dead pixels at all. I am not really in fond of sending it back, since I dont want to have all the problems with customs (really was a pain in the a.) and I guess I am lucky to have one without dead pixels and BLB.

Long story short, I am not sure, whether to start an ebay case, because I dont really have any experience with it (will it work etc.) and wanted to hear some opinions of you guys, maybe you can give me some food for thought.

thanks in advance.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jack0807*
> 
> Heyhey Guys,
> 
> I almost went through the whole thread and finally decided to buy myself a new toy. Anyways I couldn't really wait for some reviews of the TRUE10 and just went straight on buying it (not my wisest move I know ;P) In the end I am a bit dissappointed, because of the annoying input lag and the incapability of overclocking. I contacted the dealer and asked for a partial refund due to false advertising. They did, of course insist on their opinion, that the monitor can in fact display true 120 hz, and denied my offer. I wrote them that I am gonna open an ebay case, if I didnt get my partial refund, but they still be stubborn. In general I am really content with the monitor, great colors, magnificent resolution and no dead pixels at all. I am not really in fond of sending it back, since I dont want to have all the problems with customs (really was a pain in the a.) and I guess I am lucky to have one without dead pixels and BLB.
> 
> Long story short, I am not sure, whether to start an ebay case, because I dont really have any experience with it (will it work etc.) and wanted to hear some opinions of you guys, maybe you can give me some food for thought.
> 
> thanks in advance.


I got my monitor fully refunded via an ebay case - end of the day they're selling something "not as described" and ebay buyer protection covers that.


----------



## djdynamite123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I got my monitor fully refunded via an ebay case - end of the day they're selling something "not as described" and ebay buyer protection covers that.


But you would of had to to of sent the monitor back to the seller? Surely the seller wouldn't want to lose out on full money.


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jack0807*
> 
> Heyhey Guys,
> 
> I almost went through the whole thread and finally decided to buy myself a new toy. Anyways I couldn't really wait for some reviews of the TRUE10 and just went straight on buying it (not my wisest move I know ;P) In the end I am a bit dissappointed, because of the annoying input lag and the incapability of overclocking. I contacted the dealer and asked for a partial refund due to false advertising. They did, of course insist on their opinion, that the monitor can in fact display true 120 hz, and denied my offer. I wrote them that I am gonna open an ebay case, if I didnt get my partial refund, but they still be stubborn. In general I am really content with the monitor, great colors, magnificent resolution and no dead pixels at all. I am not really in fond of sending it back, since I dont want to have all the problems with customs (really was a pain in the a.) and I guess I am lucky to have one without dead pixels and BLB.
> 
> Long story short, I am not sure, whether to start an ebay case, because I dont really have any experience with it (will it work etc.) and wanted to hear some opinions of you guys, maybe you can give me some food for thought.
> 
> thanks in advance.


Images of True 10 would be great.. Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> But you would of had to to of sent the monitor back to the seller? Surely the seller wouldn't want to lose out on full money.


yes and no.
The item was rejected by me, via fedex - it then got stuck at the fedex depot until the seller agreed to a full refund.
Postage is on him to send back.
Either or - seller should pay for your postage back -if it isn't as described.


----------



## djdynamite123

Ohh. Mine was shipped from South Korea yesterday passing through multiple areas before arriving and departing Frankfurt, Germany today. Hope all is well with mine, my wife with a PC exactly the same as mine but a R9 270X and only 8GB Ram wants my 1080p 24" BenQ Gaming Monitor for a dual setup when she plays Arma 2/3/DayZ/Standalone and streams rubbish. I'm not into anything like that. It's racing Sims and Battlefield for me. She plays more games than me, I must average 20hrs a week, she must rack up 25 or so lol. Should I just put a hammer to it all before it gets worse? hahaha


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Ohh. Mine was shipped from South Korea yesterday passing through multiple areas before arriving and departing Frankfurt, Germany today. Hope all is well with mine, my wife with a PC exactly the same as mine but a R9 270X and only 8GB Ram wants my 1080p 24" BenQ Gaming Monitor for a dual setup when she plays Arma 2/3/DayZ/Standalone and streams rubbish. I'm not into anything like that. It's racing Sims and Battlefield for me. She plays more games than me, I must average 20hrs a week, she must rack up 25 or so lol. Should I just put a hammer to it all before it gets worse? hahaha


She's a keeper!
As for gaming - well if BF is the game - you would want good FPS (ie over 60hz) - thus the true 10 not being the one for you.
I would suggest contacting the seller and making this apparent, that if it isn't as described - you're owed a full refund (incl postage return).

If I were you, I would reject the monitor, like I did. At least that way, it isn't opened.


----------



## Peen

Hey if anyone is having trouble trying to get to 120+ hz, try setting 2660x1450 in CRU. I'm up to 121hz, couldn't get much higher then 116 before. might be able to get higher on DVI cable shipped with monitor. I saw this mentioned somewhere, thought I would pass that along. $290, no dead pixels, 121mhz not a bad deal!


----------



## oldhag

I am confused with too many models.Which one is the best and can oc to 120hz?Samsung PLS or AUO AH-VA ?
QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ
QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE
QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DP Multi True10
QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi True10


----------



## Eagle1337

I got my QNix in today, nearly perfect. I have a pcbank 27" on a desk mount and now I'm looking at a mount that has 2 arms and supports both of these things.. I'd like to have the second monitor to be slightly more forward and angled, but if not it's no big deal. I currently have an Arctic Cooling Z1 setup on my pcbank.
Arctic Cooling Z2
Vivo Dual Mount
Mount-it dual mount
The other option would be to get another Z1 or something like that and mount it to the side of my desk..


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldhag*
> 
> I am confused with too many models.Which one is the best and can oc to 120hz?Samsung PLS or AUO AH-VA ?
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DP Multi True10
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi True10


The first on the list is the one to get. No guarantee any will do 120hz. The last 2 will skip frames overclocking at all.


----------



## Peen

I have the Evo II SE, it's PLS and I'm OC'ed to 121hz as of right now,


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldhag*
> 
> I am confused with too many models.Which one is the best and can oc to 120hz?Samsung PLS or AUO AH-VA ?
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DP Multi True10
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi True10


Quick rule of thumb, if it's multi-input it won't overclock. Likewise for a True10.


----------



## dgio21

Just ordered the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II from MNW Global on amazon. Pretty amazed at what I got. No dead pixels, no backlight bleeding, and was able to overclock the monitor to 110hz. Pretty amazing. Glad I purchased this monitor. Too bad MNW is only selling the True10 models on amazon now. Might have to buy another one from ebay later when I get more cash.

EDIT: Just started playing Diablo 3 and Witcher 2 and noticed a purple haze near the right side of my screen at 110 hz. Eh oh well. Still happy this thing overclocked. Gonna keep it at 96 hz for now.


----------



## Peen

Hey guys, I have a very annoying problem I can't seem to find an answer for. I'm running this Qnix at 120hz, and a 2nd monitor at 60hz hooked up HDMI with my GTX670.

When I'm gaming on one monitor and watching Netflix, or have anything open on second screen, my Qnix's 120hz refresh rate is ALL over the place. Like 70-100hz and causes major stuttering in game. I could easily feel this, and verified with UFO test. Is there a fix for this?

Also, if I just run one monitor and get a for sure 120hz, in games it's stuttering if I'm less then 120fps. For example, setting Vsync on at 60hz and getting 60FPS is buttery smooth. But setting 120hz and setting Vsync on at getting 80-90 is less smooth then 60hz/60fps. 120hz/120fps is smooth though. Is this normal? I thought 90'ish FPS with 120hz would still be smooth.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgio21*
> 
> Just ordered the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II from MNW Global on amazon. Pretty amazed at what I got. No dead pixels, no backlight bleeding, and was able to overclock the monitor to 110hz. Pretty amazing. Glad I purchased this monitor. Too bad MNW is only selling the True10 models on amazon now. Might have to buy another one from ebay later when I get more cash.
> 
> EDIT: Just started playing Diablo 3 and Witcher 2 and noticed a purple haze near the right side of my screen at 110 hz. Eh oh well. Still happy this thing overclocked. Gonna keep it at 96 hz for now.


I get some "purple haze" too at 110hz only on the desktop tho. Cant notice it in Games.


----------



## oldhag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> The first on the list is the one to get. No guarantee any will do 120hz. The last 2 will skip frames overclocking at all.


Do you mean this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/121306346985?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3e6bf5e9


----------



## djdynamite123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> She's a keeper!
> As for gaming - well if BF is the game - you would want good FPS (ie over 60hz) - thus the true 10 not being the one for you.
> I would suggest contacting the seller and making this apparent, that if it isn't as described - you're owed a full refund (incl postage return).
> 
> If I were you, I would reject the monitor, like I did. At least that way, it isn't opened.


I bought this one from storewithstory: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331134376244?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
It took 6 days before it was shipped, apparently they are running very low on stock and having to check with different warehouses or something so maybe that's why storewithstory now is only selling the DP True 10's http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matte-27-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-DP-Multi-True10-10bit-Monitor-2560x1440-/331150343540?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1a193d74


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> I bought this one from storewithstory: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331134376244?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> It took 6 days before it was shipped, apparently they are running very low on stock and having to check with different warehouses or something so maybe that's why storewithstory now is only selling the DP True 10's http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matte-27-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-DP-Multi-True10-10bit-Monitor-2560x1440-/331150343540?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1a193d74


brilliant, the ultimate pixel one is the same one a few of us have including myself


----------



## peahead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is the profile I am using right now, its my favorite. 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness, 96hz around 123 cd/m white point.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


Nice profile looks really good to my eyes


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peahead*
> 
> Nice profile looks really good to my eyes


I think he needs to add that to the OP or his sig - great profile IMO!


----------



## SwiftPolar

I've done a short video overview of the Qnix QX2710 True10. If you have any questions do let me know and I'll try my best to answer them.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftPolar*
> 
> I've done a short video overview of the Qnix QX2710 True10. If you have any questions do let me know and I'll try my best to answer them.


liked!
Great video - although I'm surprised you're keeping it really.

You didn't mention anything about your console though. You said it would accept it - but from claims made here - it seems that the Xbox360 (for example) doesn't do 1080P on that monitor - it only does 720p or 1080i - what's your findings?


----------



## SwiftPolar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> liked!
> Great video - although I'm surprised you're keeping it really.
> 
> You didn't mention anything about your console though. You said it would accept it - but from claims made here - it seems that the Xbox360 (for example) doesn't do 1080P on that monitor - it only does 720p or 1080i - what's your findings?


My PS3 does output 1080P on the monitor.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftPolar*
> 
> My PS3 does output 1080P on the monitor.


oh very nice, no green lines or anything?


----------



## hogofwar

great,

Storewithstory has opened an unpaid item case with me over the $330 ultimate perfect pixel.

I thought the offer expired







, and I don't want to get it anymore...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> great,
> 
> Storewithstory has opened an unpaid item case with me over the $330 ultimate perfect pixel.
> 
> I thought the offer expired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and I don't want to get it anymore...


lol they're mistaken - make sure you make that clear


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> lol they're mistaken - make sure you make that clear


Sorry, mistaken about what?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Sorry, mistaken about what?


they are wrong to open a case against you.
They gave you an offer - you never accepted it, it expired - correct?

If so - then their case stands no ground.


----------



## snapdragon

Noticed that there is a new Multi monitor with just HDMI and D-DVI


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> they are wrong to open a case against you.
> They gave you an offer - you never accepted it, it expired - correct?
> 
> If so - then their case stands no ground.


I just realised the offer that expired was my offer to excellentcastle, which was never accepted. They both had extremely similar names for the items!

And I gave them an offer, they accepted it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I just realised the offer that expired was my offer to excellentcastle, which was never accepted. They both had extremely similar names for the items!


I'm so confused - how did thy open a case against you then?
Have you or have you not purchased the item from storewithstory? I mean committed to BUY?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm so confused - how did thy open a case against you then?
> Have you or have you not purchased the item from storewithstory? I mean committed to BUY?


I gave an offer, they accepted it, it asked for payment, i thought it expired on the day I got my refund back from the other seller, I never bought it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> I gave an offer, they accepted it, it asked for payment, i thought it expired on the day I got my refund back from the other seller, I never bought it.


ah, then yes you're liable to pay.
Why don't you though?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ah, then yes you're liable to pay.
> Why don't you though?


Need to see how much money I have.

Eh, i'll probably go for it.

What was the one you got like again? Been away from the thread since you got it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Need to see how much money I have.
> 
> Eh, i'll probably go for it.
> 
> What was the one you got like again? Been away from the thread since you got it.


perfect - flawless.
Someone else got the same one (In fact two I think) and we all are happy with it, from the same seller.

Ultimate perfect pixel from storewithstory.

Mine and the other lad's one OC's to 110hz.


----------



## hogofwar

Fine, might as well spur of the moment buy it, done.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Fine, might as well spur of the moment buy it, done.


You won't regret it - it's excellent man, believe me!


----------



## hogofwar

There, requested as a gift with a value of $100.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> There, requested as a gift with a value of $100.


let us know when it arrives


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Fine, might as well spur of the moment buy it, done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> perfect - flawless.
> Someone else got the same one (In fact two I think) and we all are happy with it, from the same seller.
> 
> Ultimate perfect pixel from storewithstory.
> 
> Mine and the other lad's one OC's to 110hz.


other lad reporting for duty. mine hits 110Hz when it feels like it, 96Hz is fine but ive just tried a new DVI-D cable and it didnt do 110Hz went back to the old one and that wont do 110Hz though it did before. madness


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> other lad reporting for duty. mine hits 110Hz when it feels like it, 96Hz is fine but ive just tried a new DVI-D cable and it didnt do 110Hz went back to the old one and that wont do 110Hz though it did before. madness


haha got to love it


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldhag*
> 
> Do you mean this one?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/121306346985?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3e6bf5e9


Thats the one, but the seller for that one is up to 5 dead pixels. I bought the one below, best offer of $325 at the time.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321300835630?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## SwiftPolar

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> oh very nice, no green lines or anything?


Nope. Seems perfectly fine to me. Maybe I'll try out the 360 if I am able to borrow it from my friend.


----------



## ategro

My Perfect Pixel QNIX from www.2560x1440monitor.com (which seems to be BigClothCraft's webpage. They seem to have ran out of normal QNIX and X-star monitors since I bought mine, though) just arrived. It only overclocks to 100 Hz though








It has one stuck red pixel. The pixel policy on the webpage says:

_"We also sell monitor with perfect pixel.
In Monitor with perfect pixel, up to 1pcs of black dead pixel may be included.
( Any Bright dead pixel is not included in monitor with perfect pixel)
In Center zone("5" Area), there is no stuck and dead pixel."_

The pixel itself really doesn't bother me all that much, but if would be nice to receive a replacement that hopefully would reach 120 Hz.

Would it make sense to ask for a replacement due to the red stuck pixel? Does anyone have any experience with BigClothCraft and returns?


----------



## FancyRabbitt

I got two Qnix QX2710 Mattes recently and I am trying to mess around with calibrating the monitor. However, anytime I try to change the calibration profile or try to adjust the monitor settings in the nvidia control panel, my monitor will flash for a second showing the changes and then revert back to how it was a second later. It doesn't seem like I can make any changes.

Has anyone else had this issue with these monitors? Or does anyone have some ideas on what I can try to correct this problem?


----------



## Chowchilla

Been fiddling for afew hours now, cant get to 110Hz. maybe i just imagined the last 2 times.. tried both CRU and the Nvidia panel. new cable makes no difference, though its hardly an upgrade (i think its the exact same cable actually)

no matter, 96Hz will do me.


----------



## MikeHawk

120hz = Green lines
115hz = screen door effect. It's super faint, but I notice it. Very weird as it passes the browser test as valid.

Hmm, looks like ToastyX has a deliner pgm. I'll just run at a lower OC.


----------



## MGMG8GT

I've had my Qnix for a few months now and have been happy, but lately the glass on it is delaminating from the top and getting progressively worse. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## djdynamite123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGMG8GT*
> 
> I've had my Qnix for a few months now and have been happy, but lately the glass on it is delaminating from the top and getting progressively worse. Anyone have any ideas?


That don't sound good. Any pictures?


----------



## Snerp

So, I tried the stock DVI cable and I still get the 2" band on the right of my screen of darker pixels at 110hz in games. Anyone have any ideas? This is with reduced LCD. I can do 105hz without going to reduced, but can't do 110hz with. Seems a little wonky to me.

Are there any settings I am missing? I thought I had messed with PCI-E in bios, but I checked that and it's 100mhz. I can't really think of anything else. I'm running Win 8.1 now, so it doesn't seem to be the OS since it did the exact same in Win 7.


----------



## anthonyg45157

I've never saw a thread move so quickly! Good lord!


----------



## anthonyg45157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> So, I tried the stock DVI cable and I still get the 2" band on the right of my screen of darker pixels at 110hz in games. Anyone have any ideas? This is with reduced LCD. I can do 105hz without going to reduced, but can't do 110hz with. Seems a little wonky to me.
> 
> Are there any settings I am missing? I thought I had messed with PCI-E in bios, but I checked that and it's 100mhz. I can't really think of anything else. I'm running Win 8.1 now, so it doesn't seem to be the OS since it did the exact same in Win 7.


What's your honest opinion of windows 8.1 from windows 7. I got my copy today and am installing tonight. Figure I might as move on and I'm not opposed to change. Also saw Microsoft is planning on changing the interface a bunch in the next update to act more like w7


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> What's your honest opinion of windows 8.1 from windows 7. I got my copy today and am installing tonight. Figure I might as move on and I'm not opposed to change. Also saw Microsoft is planning on changing the interface a bunch in the next update to act more like w7


That was my take on it. My friend got a new computer and I toyed with it a bit. Liked what I saw and decided to take the plunge. It's been around long enough that everything has drivers that work, which was the main reason I didn't jump right to 8 in the first place.

It takes a little getting used to, but honestly it's more streamlined. I had trouble with it at first, but now that I have gotten used to it, it's quite intuitive. Just set it up so you go to desktop and that start button takes you to the app list and you'll be happy. Also, right click the start button for your control panel, search, etc...


----------



## MGMG8GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> That don't sound good. Any pictures?


Sorry for the potato picture. What it looks like is adhesive that has peeled off the screen but on the inside.


----------



## MikeHawk

Help!!! What'd I do!!!!!

Panel was PERFECT!!! No bleed, no stuck/dead pixels. Tonight I went to take the bezel off so I can spray paint it flat black. In the process of taking off the bezel I also wanted to see if I could remove the speakers (they pop when I turn on the PC/monitor, even when set at 0 volume and not hooked up). I had removed the two side frames to get the panel out of the back bezel but gave up as all the wires give basically no room to maneuver.

I go to turn the panel back on and I get this smudge in the middle, about 2 inches up from the bottom. Only shows up on black, not on red/blue/green/white. I can press around it and it'll go away. Did I tweak my frame??? Please tell me this is fixable!!!!









-edit, took it apart again. No noticeable frame bends. Put back together and still have the issue.

-edit. Took it apart, kinda went all barbarian flexing it on the back side seeing if that'd help. Ends up I now have about 10+ green globs on the lower end of my panel from lett to right lol. Sigh. I laid the monitor down horizontal and am gonna go to bed. HOPEFULLY over night the panel's layers will have played nice with each other and "self healed" and fixed itself. Otherwise I have a $335 paperweight... oh well. Life goes on, I'll just go buy another Qnix.

-edit: Screw it, ordered another one.


----------



## leafonthewind

It's really not as bad as everyone makes it out to be, especially once you disable all of their useless metro apps and download a program like oblytile (which lets you add full sized program icons to the start screen (or use an alternative start menu, which i believe they are including in the update).
*The Good:*
[*] The amazing new task manager.
[*] The ability to mount .iso files natively is also very helpful.
[*] A lighter, less resource intensive OS. This brings: Noticeably Faster boot times, better desktop and gaming performance (though for most games it's probably not too noticeable, I think it's somewhere between 1% - 4% for most games), as well as slightly less RAM usage.
[*] Slightly better built-in VPN support
[*] Native 3D Printer support
[*] A more minimalistic looking UI (if you're into that.)

*The Bad*
[*] NO MORE SHADOWCOPY







(It's still built into the OS they just won't let you enable it, probably my biggest issue with Windows 8/8.1)
[*] Stupid metro apps (which can be disabled)
[*] A little to much social integration (most of which can be disabled, and the way they did it in office is a lot worse than the little they did in windows)
[*] Windows explorer is set up a little weird for some people (the absence of the details pane at the bottom is a little annoying), but if you want the explorer to look exactly like it did in 7 you can download Old New Explorer
[*] The folders that come up under "My computer" (this can be fixed with a quick registry edit)
[*] Dozens of tiny, but bearable annoyances that are supposed to be fixed with the new update.

Overall it has some minor, mostly bearable annoyances, but its benefits greatly out way its flaws, especially once you get used to it. Progress is (mostly) progress in this case. Hope that helps.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> So, I tried the stock DVI cable and I still get the 2" band on the right of my screen of darker pixels at 110hz in games. Anyone have any ideas? This is with reduced LCD. I can do 105hz without going to reduced, but can't do 110hz with. Seems a little wonky to me.
> 
> Are there any settings I am missing? I thought I had messed with PCI-E in bios, but I checked that and it's 100mhz. I can't really think of anything else. I'm running Win 8.1 now, so it doesn't seem to be the OS since it did the exact same in Win 7.


i have the exact same issue. Very odd indeed.. what are you specs?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anthonyg45157*
> 
> What's your honest opinion of windows 8.1 from windows 7. I got my copy today and am installing tonight. Figure I might as move on and I'm not opposed to change. Also saw Microsoft is planning on changing the interface a bunch in the next update to act more like w7


ive been using 8 and now 8.1 since release with StartIsBack never had a bad thing to say.


----------



## ategro

What determines a monitor's ability to OC? Is it the PCB/bypass board?
I'm stuck at 103 Hz - would acquiring a new PCB/bypass board possibly allow higher refresh rates?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leafonthewind*
> 
> It's really not as bad as everyone makes it out to be, especially once you disable all of their useless metro apps and download a program like oblytile (which lets you add full sized program icons to the start screen (or use an alternative start menu, which i believe they are including in the update).
> *The Good:*
> [*] The amazing new task manager.
> [*] The ability to mount .iso files natively is also very helpful.
> [*] A lighter, less resource intensive OS. This brings: Noticeably Faster boot times, better desktop and gaming performance (though for most games it's probably not too noticeable, I think it's somewhere between 1% - 4% for most games), as well as slightly less RAM usage.
> [*] Slightly better built-in VPN support
> [*] Native 3D Printer support
> [*] A more minimalistic looking UI (if you're into that.)
> 
> *The Bad*
> [*] NO MORE SHADOWCOPY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (It's still built into the OS they just won't let you enable it, probably my biggest issue with Windows 8/8.1)
> [*] Stupid metro apps (which can be disabled)
> [*] A little to much social integration (most of which can be disabled, and the way they did it in office is a lot worse than the little they did in windows)
> [*] Windows explorer is set up a little weird for some people (the absence of the details pane at the bottom is a little annoying), but if you want the explorer to look exactly like it did in 7 you can download Old New Explorer
> [*] The folders that come up under "My computer" (this can be fixed with a quick registry edit)
> [*] Dozens of tiny, but bearable annoyances that are supposed to be fixed with the new update.
> 
> Overall it has some minor, mostly bearable annoyances, but its benefits greatly out way its flaws, especially once you get used to it. Progress is (mostly) progress in this case. Hope that helps.


literally everything said in the pros are things I couldn't careless about.
Ps I have inw8.1 and win7 on two seperate hard drives lol


----------



## djdynamite123

Had to pay customs fee before they will even consider delivering it. Currently in the East Midlands, so hopefully it gets delivered tomorrow. I hope it's absolute spot egg for ni-on £250 now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Had to pay customs fee before they will even consider delivering it. Currently in the East Midlands, so hopefully it gets delivered tomorrow. I hope it's absolute spot egg for ni-on £250 now.


how much customs - shouldn't have been more than £20


----------



## djdynamite123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> how much customs - shouldn't have been more than £20


£26, apparently valued at £100 when shipped. Does that seem right?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> £26, apparently valued at £100 when shipped. Does that seem right?


yeah £26 is a bit on the high side (someone else paid £36) - but that's fine.
I paid £16 for customs.


----------



## djdynamite123

Quite brilliant shipping speed and tracking though especially from that far away.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Quite brilliant shipping speed and tracking though especially from that far away.


I have to say, east asia postage is amazing - I have no idea what they do to move it and ship it so fast - but it's a beastly conversion rate.
Comes to Europe/US gets screwed up LOL


----------



## Bender16

Decided to buy a Qnix 2710 yesterday, bought this one (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/121306346985?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3e6bf5e9)

It was one of the cheapest Qnix 2710, it's also pixel perfect, couldnt find anything wrong with the auction.

Does anyone here know the seller "kcci-us"? The monitor seems to be the right one though, right? I'm a little bit worried because it was so cheap and pixel perfect


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Quite brilliant shipping speed and tracking though especially from that far away.


mine spent the same amount of time at my local depot than it did coming from Korea. Crazy.

So, whats the deal with monitor timings? is there a "good" set of numbers we should be achieving? right now im at 96Hz with CVT reduced blank. im seeing a lot of different combnations here and over on Guru3D. rather confusing as i cant find really find a guide to what it all means


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> i have the exact same issue. Very odd indeed.. what are you specs?
> ive been using 8 and now 8.1 since release with StartIsBack never had a bad thing to say.


What specs are you aftee?


----------



## dude0014

Does anyone have a good color profile for 100hz+, with reduced brightness? All the ones I've tried are bit too bright for me.

I am at 105hz which is the max I am able attain using Nvidia and settings at automatic. Anything above green lines all over the screen.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Does anyone have a good color profile for 100hz+, with reduced brightness? All the ones I've tried are bit too bright for me.
> 
> I am at 105hz which is the max I am able attain using Nvidia and settings at automatic. Anything above green lines all over the screen.


I'm using a 110hz profile with a couple clicks less of brightness. I'm happy with it.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> I'm using a 110hz profile with a couple clicks less of brightness. I'm happy with it.


Which profile & sorry if this sounds like a noob question, but how did you lower the brightness? Anytime I try to do that (using Nvidia CP) my entire color profile resets.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Which profile & sorry if this sounds like a noob question, but how did you lower the brightness? Anytime I try to do that (using Nvidia CP) my entire color profile resets.


You dont lower brightness with NVCP, use the buttons on the monitor.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Which profile & sorry if this sounds like a noob question, but how did you lower the brightness? Anytime I try to do that (using Nvidia CP) my entire color profile resets.


Use the brightness control on the monitor. Bottom right of the screen, furthest two buttons to to the left.

It's a color profile in in the first post. I don't remember which I went with, just download them all and see which you prefer. That's what I did.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> Use the brightness control on the monitor. Bottom right of the screen, furthest two buttons to to the left.
> 
> It's a color profile in in the first post. I don't remember which I went with, just download them all and see which you prefer. That's what I did.


Holy wow. I didn't know those buttons worked. Thanks


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Holy wow. I didn't know those buttons worked. Thanks


NP. The only noob question is the one you don't ask. It's much better to look silly for a second then to put up with a problem. Everyone is pretty understanding here, so don't hold back. And welcome to OCN. You'll like it here.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You dont lower brightness with NVCP, use the buttons on the monitor.


can you put your profile in your sig bro







?


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Decided to buy a Qnix 2710 yesterday, bought this one (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/121306346985?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3e6bf5e9)
> 
> It was one of the cheapest Qnix 2710, it's also pixel perfect, couldnt find anything wrong with the auction.
> 
> Does anyone here know the seller "kcci-us"? The monitor seems to be the right one though, right? I'm a little bit worried because it was so cheap and pixel perfect


Haven't heard of them before, seem to be a pretty new seller.

Seems to be the right monitor though.


----------



## Cyalume

Color temperature seems to be uneven on my panel. Is that normal? Some areas of the screen are slightly darker than others. The top-right and bottom left corners in particular are darker/stronger than the rest of the screen when the screen is set to anything other than 6500k.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> What specs are you aftee?


Graphics card mainly. I above that your running at 110Hz.. Did you fix the colour band issue?


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Graphics card mainly. I above that your running at 110Hz.. Did you fix the colour band issue?


770 GTX.The only fix I can find is lowering the oc to 105. Seems super weird that reduced LCD doesn't get me an extra 5hz though.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> can you put your profile in your sig bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


OMG, you are SO demanding, DONE.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> OMG, you are SO demanding, DONE.


+rep







!
Thanks bro - helps others!


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> 770 GTX.The only fix I can find is lowering the oc to 105. Seems super weird that reduced LCD doesn't get me an extra 5hz though.


Same card I have.. Strange. Ive tried a different cable to no effect. Maybe it's just the gtx770? I am curious as to what causes the different frame rate results with these monitors.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Thanks bro - helps others!


I would of done it yesterday, but I was busy playing video poker at a casino. Made over $600, spent more time driving to and from then time at the casino.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Color temperature seems to be uneven on my panel. Is that normal? Some areas of the screen are slightly darker than others. The top-right and bottom left corners in particular are darker/stronger than the rest of the screen when the screen is set to anything other than 6500k.


Yep that is normal, these panels are A- and sold cheap for a reason.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> I would of done it yesterday, but I was busy playing video poker at a casino. Made over $600, spent more time driving to and from then time at the casino.


Enjoy it because that won't happen every time.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chowchilla*
> 
> Same card I have.. Strange. Ive tried a different cable to no effect. Maybe it's just the gtx770? I am curious as to what causes the different frame rate results with these monitors.


Hmmm...I wonder if it is the gpu then?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> Enjoy it because that won't happen every time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm...I wonder if it is the gpu then?


I do pretty well on those machines.


----------



## Watagump

So, how do we put files for people to use in our sig, already got told to remove it since it was linking to another place to DL from.


----------



## Snerp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> So, how do we put files for people to use in our sig, already got told to remove it since it was linking to another place to DL from.


Ask whoever told you to remove it. If they know you can't do it, they know what you can do.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> Ask whoever told you to remove it. If they know you can't do it, they know what you can do.


Should be good to go, just had to use a different site.


----------



## Chowchilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Should be good to go, just had to use a different site.


your dropbox link doesnt work


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Should be good to go, just had to use a different site.


That's the link you use when signed in to your Dropbox account. Click on the share button next to the file and it generates a link that can be shared with others that are not signed in to your Dropbox.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That's the link you use when signed in to your Dropbox account. Click on the share button next to the file and it generates a link that can be shared with others that are not signed in to your Dropbox.


Fixed, thanks +rep


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Fixed, thanks +rep


And to think I got rep for this while so many other good posts I made didn't


----------



## Peen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peen*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a very annoying problem I can't seem to find an answer for. I'm running this Qnix at 120hz, and a 2nd monitor at 60hz hooked up HDMI with my GTX670.
> 
> When I'm gaming on one monitor and watching Netflix, or have anything open on second screen, my Qnix's 120hz refresh rate is ALL over the place. Like 70-100hz and causes major stuttering in game. I could easily feel this, and verified with UFO test. Is there a fix for this?
> 
> Also, if I just run one monitor and get a for sure 120hz, in games it's stuttering if I'm less then 120fps. For example, setting Vsync on at 60hz and getting 60FPS is buttery smooth. But setting 120hz and setting Vsync on at getting 80-90 is less smooth then 60hz/60fps. 120hz/120fps is smooth though. Is this normal? I thought 90'ish FPS with 120hz would still be smooth.


This thread is moving so fast. Anyone else having this problem?


----------



## Watagump

Good luck to everyone here, I am done here.


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Decided to buy a Qnix 2710 yesterday, bought this one (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/121306346985?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c3e6bf5e9)
> 
> It was one of the cheapest Qnix 2710, it's also pixel perfect, couldnt find anything wrong with the auction.
> 
> Does anyone here know the seller "kcci-us"? The monitor seems to be the right one though, right? I'm a little bit worried because it was so cheap and pixel perfect


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Haven't heard of them before, seem to be a pretty new seller.
> 
> Seems to be the right monitor though.


I was the first person to buy from them on that listing. Ordered Saturday AM, arrived Wednesday in perfect condition. No dead pixels, no bleed, no nothing. Until I was a jackass and f'd it up and have the green blobs in post http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/17300_100#post_22065171

HELP!!!!! I'm almost about ready to buy an other one unless someone can help.

-edit: Screw it, ordered another one.


----------



## oldhag

Are they reliable?
http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html?___store=default


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldhag*
> 
> Are they reliable?
> http://www.overclockmonitor.com/qnix/qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-2-oc-m-pf.html?___store=default


they are ALL shipped from Korea - no matter where the company is based.
They're reipping you off at that price.
Buy the ULTIMATE PERFECT PIXEL for $350 incl postage. No dead pixels nor BLB.

Buy from accessorieswhole or storewithstory or excellentcastle


----------



## MenacingTuba

Any Qnix Dport or X-Star MDP (multi-input model) owners? Do the colors darken when the brightness is turned down? The Qnix QX2700 HDMI lacks proper brightness controls since it reduces reduces the white level and gamma instead of the back-light (brightness and black level). The black level remains very high at 0.34-0.37cdm/2 regardless of how bright the monitor is set.

Brightness 50 (measured 380cdm/2=extremely bright!)

Brightness 27

Brightness 0


Many of the multi-input IPS panels also lack proper brightness (back-light) controls except for Crossover. Not sure about Yamakasi or the multi-input Qnix/X-Star PLS panels which is why I am asking.

The QX2700 HDMI has no input lag just like the sinlge input monitors (tested with the SMT Tool 2.5) which makes it special since almost all of the multi-input 1440p monitors have 16-30ms delays.


----------



## oldhag

Is there any difference between Ultimate Pixel and Perfect Pixel?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldhag*
> 
> Is there any difference between Ultimate Pixel and Perfect Pixel?


Perfect pixel normally means there can still be some bad pixels, while the ultimate perfect pixel models normally mean no dead/stuck pixels at all.


----------



## Optimus1978

Any have the Monoprice stand and have issues with the ball join in the middle?

I really want to have it more stiff when positioning the monitor at the minute, all screws are tight.

Thanks


----------



## Overfiend

So I sent my QNIX back.

The seller, storewithstory, said that it must have been damaged during shipping, but has also said they have no more left...

Hmm, looks like I was sold the bottom of the barrel and they tried to get away with it.

So I am going to attempt again to buy one... I have tried accessorieswhole (misadvertised True10), and storewithstory (blown backlight).

Who do I try next on the Korean monitor fun-time gamble?


----------



## Overfiend

OK, what do you guys make of this one:

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pixel-Perfect-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Matt-PC-Monitor-/321141979644?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4ac58db9fc


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> OK, what do you guys make of this one:
> 
> www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pixel-Perfect-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Matt-PC-Monitor-/321141979644?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4ac58db9fc


they ran out of stock quite a bit - and some people were waiting for over 2 weeks.
See if they have stock - price is too high though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Guys a question about the nvidia patcher (I'm in SLI).

Installed the new drivers and this seems not to be fond- is that OK?


----------



## djdynamite123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I have to say, east asia postage is amazing - I have no idea what they do to move it and ship it so fast - but it's a beastly conversion rate.
> Comes to Europe/US gets screwed up LOL


Well just unwrapped mine, powered her on and gave it a good test displaying several colors to check for any pixel issues. Not a bean. Back light bleed? not a bean, on par with my wifes 2 BenQ monitors.

I must admit the back housing plastic is pretty shoddy and flimsy but it's fine.

The center seems across the entire top/sides of the panels don't exactly meet together? I think I may add thin sellotape across it all in-case dust gets in?

Now time to OC it to 96hz, don't think ill bother attempting any higher, no point in stressing it so soon. And then add a color profile.


----------



## Mahalak

I tried searching for related stuff in the thread but couldn't find anything, does anyone have experience with these QNIX monitors and using a longer possibly 5 meter long cable and see if its a limiting factor/causes issues?

I have my PC another room for 100% silence and simply routed the cables through a wall, using my u2412m with dvid, DP, even VGA works, but ofc this is just 1920x1200/60hz.
I was almost relieved to see the new ones with the displayport on them but then I've read that its basically just 60hz and nothing more - if I'm taking the risks of all these issues I was hoping to get the extra refresh rate.


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Guys a question about the nvidia patcher (I'm in SLI).
> 
> Installed the new drivers and this seems not to be fond- is that OK?


Do you have a Single Link DVI or HDMI cable/monitor? Answer: No. Conclusion, you're fine


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Do you have a Single Link DVI or HDMI cable/monitor? Answer: No. Conclusion, you're fine


I guess not haha!
But - it still makes me curious as to why it was OK before, but not any more?


----------



## djdynamite123

110Hz max OC for me. Any game at 120Hz = green fuzzy lines everywhere.


----------



## ategro

Will the new Nvidia 337.50 driver with all it's optimizations and improvements allow for higher monitor OC? Also, having patched the driver and made custom resolutions for my monitor, is there a special driver update procedure?


----------



## jack0807

heyho guys,

it's me again with the True 10







So I started and Ebay Case against the seller, but there are some wierd things. First of all, the seller accuses me of having no proof and that's why he reported me to ebay and paypal. They sent me a german (my native language) review, which greatly supports MY thesis, that it cant overclock. Moreover they even tried to convince me with reviews of the Evolution II (the NON true 10 version), that it can overclock. I highly doubt, that I will lose this case, since I got tons of proof, but anyways there is something that bugs me greatly.

Paypal informed me, that in case of me winning the case I still would have to pay the shipping costs back to korea







. I really don't understand that. Why should I pay for a mistake someone else did? Did I do anything wrong here? I really dont see that here... Can u guys share, how y'all handled the return shipping ?

thanks in advance









jack


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> Will the new Nvidia 337.50 driver with all it's optimizations and improvements allow for higher monitor OC? Also, having patched the driver and made custom resolutions for my monitor, is there a special driver update procedure?


you just need to re-patch the drivers (nothing else) for a new driver install.
And that's IF you're on SLI or a very old GPU card
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jack0807*
> 
> heyho guys,
> 
> it's me again with the True 10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I started and Ebay Case against the seller, but there are some wierd things. First of all, the seller accuses me of having no proof and that's why he reported me to ebay and paypal. They sent me a german (my native language) review, which greatly supports MY thesis, that it cant overclock. Moreover they even tried to convince me with reviews of the Evolution II (the NON true 10 version), that it can overclock. I highly doubt, that I will lose this case, since I got tons of proof, but anyways there is something that bugs me greatly.
> 
> Paypal informed me, that in case of me winning the case I still would have to pay the shipping costs back to korea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I really don't understand that. Why should I pay for a mistake someone else did? Did I do anything wrong here? I really dont see that here... Can u guys share, how y'all handled the return shipping ?
> 
> thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jack


Hey mate - OK:
First of all, link them some posts from here - showing how it DOES NOT overclock (including a very good video review that was posted in here).
Secondly - you shoudl educate them about skipping frames =/= overlock able

As for you paying shipping costs back - no it shouldn't apply, as the purchased item isn't as described - you can put it to them in a different way:
If I bought a computer, and a laptop arrived - why should I pay postage back?
Maybe that will make stupid paypal and eBay understand the case.


----------



## apav

There's so many variations in all the ICC profiles for my monitor, I can't figure out which is the best one! I need one for 60hz, 96hz, 110hz and 120hz. It's a guessing game for me, I can tell the difference in most profiles but I can't tell at all which has better color reproduction. So guys, which would you say out of all the profiles is the most widely accepted and used?


----------



## jack0807

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hey mate - OK:
> First of all, link them some posts from here - showing how it DOES NOT overclock (including a very good video review that was posted in here).
> Secondly - you shoudl educate them about skipping frames =/= overlock able
> 
> As for you paying shipping costs back - no it shouldn't apply, as the purchased item isn't as described - you can put it to them in a different way:
> If I bought a computer, and a laptop arrived - why should I pay postage back?
> Maybe that will make stupid paypal and eBay understand the case.


Thanks for the quick reply.

I wrote 4 mails to seller, with good proof, but they they still insist on their thesis, that's why i opened the ebay case. To paypal i wrote an email with 5 proofs (german review, youtube video which I found a few pages earlier, picture I took with frameskip test, link to this thread, lack of proof from the sellers side,... ).

I had the exact same thought with the shipping. It isn't my fault, so why on earth should I pay for their mistake? But it was paypal itself who said that to me. I did in fact write another mail to paypal, asking why I should pay the return costs, let's see what they respond.

Do you know is there a difference between the ebay buyers protection and the paypal protection or is it one and the same ?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> So I sent my QNIX back.
> 
> The seller, storewithstory, said that it must have been damaged during shipping, but has also said they have no more left...
> 
> Hmm, looks like I was sold the bottom of the barrel and they tried to get away with it.
> 
> So I am going to attempt again to buy one... I have tried accessorieswhole (misadvertised True10), and storewithstory (blown backlight).
> 
> Who do I try next on the Korean monitor fun-time gamble?


That stinks. I bought from green-sum. There are a lot of people that have had positive experiences with that seller. Though that was a while back. Not sure about nowadays.


----------



## $ilent

Does overclocking your monitor run the risk of causing damage?


----------



## mystycs

Just ordered from ipsledmonitors.com after speaking to them on the phone. Really nice guy!

Ordered from them because of the refund policy because im a perfectionist and afraid of the whole dead pixel/blb thing, lets hope i get a great display! Looking forward to getting my new monitor!


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Does overclocking your monitor run the risk of causing damage?


Short answer: Yes.

But there are been people who have dug through the components on the PCB in the monitor and said that the components should be fine up to 400MHz pixel clock. 96Hz is around 383MHz pixel clock. So going to 100HZ+ you're running certain parts on the PCD out of spec. But it seems that reliability is good.

Short answer 2: Don't worry about it, especially if you're going to stay at or below 100Hz.


----------



## $ilent

ok thanks, ive gone to 96Hz, it ran that frame skipping test fine.

Ive gotta say coupled with the new 337.50 nv beta driver and 96Hz, BF4 looks alot better. Just did a fraps test and got average 93fps with gtx 670 sli at max settings, bar no AA and res scale at 90%. Just wish these cards were 4GB cards









I missed my old 120hz 1080p monitor, 96hz is not quiet as nice but nearly there


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jack0807*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply.
> 
> I wrote 4 mails to seller, with good proof, but they they still insist on their thesis, that's why i opened the ebay case. To paypal i wrote an email with 5 proofs (german review, youtube video which I found a few pages earlier, picture I took with frameskip test, link to this thread, lack of proof from the sellers side,... ).
> 
> I had the exact same thought with the shipping. It isn't my fault, so why on earth should I pay for their mistake? But it was paypal itself who said that to me. I did in fact write another mail to paypal, asking why I should pay the return costs, let's see what they respond.
> 
> Do you know is there a difference between the ebay buyers protection and the paypal protection or is it one and the same ?


they're the same thing really - they operate the same way at least
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> ok thanks, ive gone to 96Hz, it ran that frame skipping test fine.
> 
> Ive gotta say coupled with the new 337.50 nv beta driver and 96Hz, BF4 looks alot better. Just did a fraps test and got average 93fps with gtx 670 sli at max settings, bar no AA and res scale at 90%. Just wish these cards were 4GB cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I missed my old 120hz 1080p monitor, 96hz is not quiet as nice but nearly there


doesn't sound right - I'm doing benches as we speak:
2014-04-07 18:52:45 - bf4
Frames: 16010 - Time: 135128ms - Avg: 118.480 - Min: 62 - Max: 202

SLI 680s


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> they're the same thing really - they operate the same way at least
> doesn't sound right - I'm doing benches as we speak:
> 2014-04-07 18:52:45 - bf4
> Frames: 16010 - Time: 135128ms - Avg: 118.480 - Min: 62 - Max: 202
> 
> SLI 680s


Hmm something is up with mine. When I first set this 96Hz overclock, it made my nvidia control panel switch to disable SLI. So I put it back on and played some Bf4 at 96hz.

But now when I try set it, it shows at 90Hz (ive lowered to 90Hz since BF4 crashed), NV control panel says its at 90hz, but in windows when I go to screen resolution it wont let me set over 60hz.

The only way around it is to disable Sli, set 90hz in windows, then enable SLI. This lets me see a setting in Bf4 for 90Hz, but when I clcik save in Bf4 it asks me like 2 times if I want to save, I click yes but then it just reverts to 59.94hz?!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Hmm something is up with mine. When I first set this 96Hz overclock, it made my nvidia control panel switch to disable SLI. So I put it back on and played some Bf4 at 96hz.
> 
> But now when I try set it, it shows at 90Hz (ive lowered to 90Hz since BF4 crashed), NV control panel says its at 90hz, but in windows when I go to screen resolution it wont let me set over 60hz.
> 
> The only way around it is to disable Sli, set 90hz in windows, then enable SLI. This lets me see a setting in Bf4 for 90Hz, but when I clcik save in Bf4 it asks me like 2 times if I want to save, I click yes but then it just reverts to 59.94hz?!


Yeah and you first replied "its all right"
Sure it is....

Install the driver for the QNIX.
OC to 96hz

In fact, watch my video:


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yeah and you first replied "its all right"
> Sure it is....
> 
> Install the driver for the QNIX.
> OC to 96hz
> 
> In fact, watch my video:


I did everytjing you did apart from the qnix driver, not sure what or where that is.

My results on 64 player naval strike map:

Frames, Time (ms), Min, Max, Avg
21219, 223378, 74, 99, 94.991

Not sure how you got 200, your settings must be lower than mine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> I did everytjing you did apart from the qnix driver, not sure what or where that is.
> 
> My results on 64 player naval strike map:
> 
> Frames, Time (ms), Min, Max, Avg
> 21219, 223378, 74, 99, 94.991
> 
> Not sure how you got 200, your settings must be lower than mine.


I was testing in an empty server, doing benches. Yeah mine would be higher than yours. I'm on ultra with msaa off
As for the driver...Did you bother to watch the video linked at all?


----------



## djdynamite123

Why not just do a simple stand still at the start of a level like stood in-front of all vehicles and sere what fps it claims to be. Then the following person be told with a screenshot how they stood? makes it fair.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I was testing in an empty server, doing benches. Yeah mine would be higher than yours. I'm on ultra with msaa off
> As for the driver...Did you bother to watch the video linked at all?


Yes I watched the video thanks.

Why bother doing benchmarks in an empty server









The results I posted were on a 64 player naval strike server.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Why not just do a simple stand still at the start of a level like stood in-front of all vehicles and sere what fps it claims to be. Then the following person be told with a screenshot how they stood? makes it fair.


Yeah that's easy to do bro - but doesn't test everything.
Ie lighting and bloom effects etc.
To get a more well-rounded result, you should do some sort of tests: Fly a chopper - look at the scenery, check grass, explosions - sudden frame drops (dying) things like that








It gives a better analysis of results







!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Yes I watched the video thanks.
> 
> Why bother doing benchmarks in an empty server
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The results I posted were on a 64 player naval strike server.


First of all:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1479451/various-geforce-337-50-wonder-driver-beta-release

Secondly:
I'm not benchmarking the game, as I did here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1433904/comparison-of-windows-7-vs-windows-8-8-1-ht-enabled-vs-disabled-on-battlefield-4

But I am benchmarking a driver. Thus I couldn't careless for the actual number - I just need continuous, same test analysis.
Not accurate SP vs MP data - where I would have to spend at least 4hrs per data set collected, to come up to an educated and level'ed comparison.

Sure when people say:
OMG Win8 has 40% incrasde - and they stand in one place -> they're idiots.
That's when you need to spend over 4-10hrs benchmarking on one platform vs the other.

Anyway - I don't know why, but your replies just annoy me. They seem to be aggravated for some reason. maybe it's the way I'm interpreting your responses - but I don't like it.
All the best with your monitor.


----------



## bluedevil

Gonna buy a new GPU for this awesome monitor, 290 or 780?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Gonna buy a new GPU for this awesome monitor, 290 or 780?


I thought you were gonna sell it?

OK well - really depends on prices and VRAM
You realistically want this:
-Game compatibility
-Game performance with 290 vs 780 tests (see benchmarks etc online)

I would go for:
Most VRAM at the most affordable price.
If I had to choose - I would go Nvidia, JUST because of the brand new drivers that came out today.
I'll link for you in 30mins my result findings of the new drivers.

Before these new drivers, i would have said Mantle / AMD without a shadow of a doubt


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Gonna buy a new GPU for this awesome monitor, 290 or 780?


What's your wife going to say about this ?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I thought you were gonna sell it?
> 
> OK well - really depends on prices and VRAM
> You realistically want this:
> -Game compatibility
> -Game performance with 290 vs 780 tests (see benchmarks etc online)
> 
> I would go for:
> Most VRAM at the most affordable price.
> If I had to choose - I would go Nvidia, JUST because of the brand new drivers that came out today.
> I'll link for you in 30mins my result findings of the new drivers.
> 
> Before these new drivers, i would have said Mantle / AMD without a shadow of a doubt


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> What's your wife going to say about this ?


Gonna keep it. Deal is I sell off the "junk" in the basement to finance a new GPU.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I thought you were gonna sell it?
> 
> OK well - really depends on prices and VRAM
> You realistically want this:
> -Game compatibility
> -Game performance with 290 vs 780 tests (see benchmarks etc online)
> 
> I would go for:
> Most VRAM at the most affordable price.
> If I had to choose - I would go Nvidia, JUST because of the brand new drivers that came out today.
> I'll link for you in 30mins my result findings of the new drivers.
> 
> Before these new drivers, i would have said Mantle / AMD without a shadow of a doubt


Just like Nvidia responded to Mantle now, AMD will respond to Nvidia's DX11 tweaks. Mantle still has a lot of advantages over the drivers released today, like higher minimum FPS and a smoother experience.

I wouldn't buy Nvidia or AMD just because they happen to have a driver advantage. They're bound to trade blows doing that.

That being said, my vote would go for the 290 seeing as it has more VRAM, better performance at higher resolutions, beats the 780 at stock even with normal resos (1080p? 1440p), sells for less, and is more potent in CrossFire which scales better than SLi particularly at higher resos.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Gonna keep it. Deal is I sell off the "junk" in the basement to finance a new GPU.


better hide this one mate


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> better hide this one mate


Lol, she fully knows about this.









Interesting.....
http://www.pcgamer.com/2014/04/07/nvidia-have-gone-a-bit-mantle-with-their-latest-geforce-driver-release/?utm_source=fb&utm_medium=emp


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Does overclocking your monitor run the risk of causing damage?


I run my monitor at 120hz 24/7 since i bought it and have had no problems at all and i don't expect to have any!......Also we do not need to add voltage to overclock these monitors as you generally would need to if you were overclocking your CPU or GPU.... So therefore we are not generating much higher temperatures that are generally associated from overvolting or creating Voltage Degradation of any of the components....I personally believe overclocking these monitors is safe and i have no concerns at all running 120hz 24/7 and i do not anticipate any future problems.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Lol, she fully knows about this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting.....
> http://www.pcgamer.com/2014/04/07/nvidia-have-gone-a-bit-mantle-with-their-latest-geforce-driver-release/?utm_source=fb&utm_medium=emp


my sig bro, my sig:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1480050/new-nvidia-337-50-drivers-battlefield-4-benchmarks-ht-on-vs-ht-off


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> my sig bro, my sig:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1480050/new-nvidia-337-50-drivers-battlefield-4-benchmarks-ht-on-vs-ht-off


Now I don't know what to buy....


----------



## livejamie

I'm able to get one monitor running at 120 but the other if I run over 96 I get weird Green Lines and stuff, any ideas?


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Hello Lucid Dreamer,

I am about to push the button on my QNIX via Amazon, and Im keen to get the same stand as you - it looks great.

Any chance you could provide a link to where I can buy the stand, or even if you can remember what to search for?

Thanks heaps.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Has anyone tried using a Dell monitor stand like this one here and fit it as the HP stand like some have done. I can't find the HP stand anywhere and standard VESA stands are just plain ugly.

Appreciate any feedback


----------



## daygo

Hello!

First of all i want to say thanks to everyone, it's my first post but i red sooooo many pages of this thread and this helped me deciding about what to buy.

So i have received yesterday the QNIX QX2710 Matte. NO Dead pixels...so happy









Concerning the OC i did everything through the nVidia panel. I have a GTX780.

At 96hz i'm stable, no problem and no frame skipping.

At 120hz i have not frame skipping but i have some horizontal blue line in the middle that i can see only with dark backgrounds, but anyway i have decided to keep the 96hz for the moment.

BUT, i would like to keep the 120hz, do you think i can handle them with a new cable (now i'm using the default one) ?
I have ordered this one: KabelDirekt

Thanks so much again

p.s: i will try downloading ICC profile but i'm already happy to be honest


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daygo*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> First of all i want to say thanks to everyone, it's my first post but i red sooooo many pages of this thread and this helped me deciding about what to buy.
> 
> So i have received yesterday the QNIX QX2710 Matte. NO Dead pixels...so happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Concerning the OC i did everything through the nVidia panel. I have a GTX780.
> 
> At 96hz i'm stable, no problem and no frame skipping.
> 
> At 120hz i have not frame skipping but i have some horizontal blue line in the middle that i can see only with dark backgrounds, but anyway i have decided to keep the 96hz for the moment.
> 
> BUT, i would like to keep the 120hz, do you think i can handle them with a new cable (now i'm using the default one) ?
> I have ordered this one: KabelDirekt
> 
> Thanks so much again
> 
> p.s: i will try downloading ICC profile but i'm already happy to be honest


a cable COULD help, but it isn't guaranteed. Some monitors are just not capable.
No need to hit 120hz, just for the sake of hitting it. You could go for 110hz or something too


----------



## daygo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> a cable COULD help, but it isn't guaranteed. Some monitors are just not capable.
> No need to hit 120hz, just for the sake of hitting it. You could go for 110hz or something too


yeah yeah i know the cable could help or not but really i see that my monitor can handle it ...he just need a little sprint more








I will try with something less... i red that usually it's better to use multiple of 24, so 96 and the next step is 120. Am i wrong so? Can i try with 110, 115, etc?

thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daygo*
> 
> yeah yeah i know the cable could help or not but really i see that my monitor can handle it ...he just need a little sprint more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try with something less... i red that usually it's better to use multiple of 24, so 96 and the next step is 120. Am i wrong so? Can i try with 110, 115, etc?
> 
> thanks


no you're right - but 24fps - is for video formats


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> no you're right - but 24fps - is for video formats


If you're going to watch video at a refresh rate that is a multiple of the video's FPS, then that FPS is 23.976 not 24. The difference will cause frame repeats over time.

Regardless, if you're watching fullscreen video, no point in using a high refresh rate for that. 71.928Hz will do fine for video, it's not that far from the default 60Hz. Plus, overclocking side effects like image retention and less uniformity mean that in most cases, running high refresh rates on the desktop will not be very desirable. Higher overclocks also reduce the peak white level while the black level stays the same, meaning your contrast ratio will slightly drop (mine does from 850:1 @ 60Hz --> 800:1 @ 110Hz, both calibrated)

The highest refresh rate should be reserved for gaming and does not have to be a multiple of 23.976.


----------



## daygo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> The highest refresh rate should be reserved for gaming and does not have to be a multiple of 23.976.


interesting. Is there a way to say: When you ran this and this and this videogame go at 120hz (for example) instead in all other situation go at 60hz?

If yes...is not a problem if i often pass from an application at 60hz and a videogame at 120hz (for example i often switch with ctrl+tab when i'm inside a videogame to my broswer or music software)


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daygo*
> 
> interesting. Is there a way to say: When you ran this and this and this videogame go at 120hz (for example) instead in all other situation go at 60hz?
> 
> If yes...is not a problem if i often pass from an application at 60hz and a videogame at 120hz (for example i often switch with ctrl+tab when i'm inside a videogame to my broswer or music software)


That's basically what I do, but I run 110Hz instead of 120Hz. When I watch 24FPS video, I used to run 95.904Hz since I had a color profile for that. But now, I can make a profile for 71.928Hz quickly and use that instead. Less gamma shift, probably no image retention, probably no uniformity issues at all, etc... since it's very close to 60Hz.

Some games use Windows refresh rate so you'll have to change the Windows refresh rate and then launch the game. In those cases, switching back and forth between the game and desktop will not change your refresh rate and the switching will be smooth and seamless.

Other games can use their own refresh rate independent from what Windows is currently running, so for those games, the refresh rate will be switched back to 60Hz when you're on desktop, and 110 / 120Hz when you're in-game, automatically.


----------



## dgio21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> Here is the profile I am using right now, its my favorite. 12 clicks up from the lowest brightness, 96hz around 123 cd/m white point.
> 
> ICCProfile.zip 11k .zip file


Using this profile too. Was just a little too dark to me so I increased the brightness a couple of clicks. Really nice!


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If you're going to watch video at a refresh rate that is a multiple of the video's FPS, then that FPS is 23.976 not 24. The difference will cause frame repeats over time.
> 
> Regardless, if you're watching fullscreen video, no point in using a high refresh rate for that. 71.928Hz will do fine for video, it's not that far from the default 60Hz. Plus, overclocking side effects like image retention and less uniformity mean that in most cases, running high refresh rates on the desktop will not be very desirable. Higher overclocks also reduce the peak white level while the black level stays the same, meaning your contrast ratio will slightly drop (mine does from 850:1 @ 60Hz --> 800:1 @ 110Hz, both calibrated)
> 
> The highest refresh rate should be reserved for gaming and does not have to be a multiple of 23.976.


So for video it would be better to set refresh rate to 95.904Hz (23.976 x 4) rather than 96Hz?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> So for video it would be better to set refresh rate to 95.904Hz (23.976 x 4) rather than 96Hz?


That is correct.

60Hz is actually 59.94Hz, too. That way it can handle 29.97FPS (x2) videos properly and it can handle 3:2 pulldown for 23.976FPS videos too (23.976 * (3+2)/2 = 59.94).


----------



## MikeHawk

While we're on the subject of movie playback. I had gone thru a quick tutorial on how to setup Madvr but I really couldn't tell a lick of difference from regular ole out of the box MPC-HC settings.

I then uninstalled everything and loaded up SVP and it had the soap opera effect that I was trying to get by just manually tweaking all the Madvr stuff. I had assumed 96hz native playback would have resulted in immediate smooth motion playback. Guess not.

I guess I need an idiots guide on how to have the most rewarding video playback that our 60hz+ monitors can provide with our high horsepower GPUs Basically a nice A/B comparison of what each and every setting change does and how to measure if our monitor/gpu can keep up with the tweaks.


----------



## Kokin

I notice the difference with MadVR, but aside from a few American shows, I mostly watch anime and 120Hz will show how some anime shows "skip animations".


----------



## daygo

i'm stable at 110hz, probably with the new cable i can handle 120hz too, we will see.
I'm playing with ICC, i probably keep the ASUS profile posted in the first page of the thread, perhaps a bit darker when i run at 110hz but i prefer









Concerning cost , I'm from Italy, i have paid around 240€ for the monitor plus 40€ custom fees.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daygo*
> 
> i'm stable at 110hz, probably with the new cable i can handle 120hz too, we will see.
> I'm playing with ICC, i probably keep the ASUS profile posted in the first page of the thread, perhaps a bit darker when i run at 110hz but i prefer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Concerning cost , I'm from Italy, i have paid around 240€ for the monitor plus 40€ custom fees.


Did you make sure the ICC profile is active in-game?


----------



## daygo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Did you make sure the ICC profile is active in-game?


mmm i don't know?








i'm sure the ICC profile is loaded because i see my desktop colors changing when i switch from one to another one...i didn't know when i'm in game the profile could not work...is it possible?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daygo*
> 
> mmm i don't know?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm sure the ICC profile is loaded because i see my desktop colors changing when i switch from one to another one...i didn't know when i'm in game the profile could not work...is it possible?


http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=387074


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daygo*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> First of all i want to say thanks to everyone, it's my first post but i red sooooo many pages of this thread and this helped me deciding about what to buy.
> 
> So i have received yesterday the QNIX QX2710 Matte. NO Dead pixels...so happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Concerning the OC i did everything through the nVidia panel. I have a GTX780.
> 
> At 96hz i'm stable, no problem and no frame skipping.
> 
> At 120hz i have not frame skipping but i have some horizontal blue line in the middle that i can see only with dark backgrounds, but anyway i have decided to keep the 96hz for the moment.
> 
> BUT, i would like to keep the 120hz, do you think i can handle them with a new cable (now i'm using the default one) ?
> I have ordered this one: KabelDirekt
> 
> Thanks so much again
> 
> p.s: i will try downloading ICC profile but i'm already happy to be honest


Hey!

I'm considering to buy the QNIX QX2710 Matte myself.

Just curious: Where did you buy yours from? If it was from eBay, which seller and was it a pixel perfect one?

Thanks in advance


----------



## daygo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> I'm considering to buy the QNIX QX2710 Matte myself.
> 
> Just curious: Where did you buy yours from? If it was from eBay, which seller and was it a pixel perfect one?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Hi mate, i bought mine on ebay (seller: accessorieswhole). I took the "normal" version and i'm lucky because i have no dead pixel. Anyway he has the pixel perfect version too. The seller is very friendly, he answered my question and the shipment was free and super fast


----------



## OhMyScience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daygo*
> 
> Hi mate, i bought mine on ebay (seller: accessorieswhole). I took the "normal" version and i'm lucky because i have no dead pixel. Anyway he has the pixel perfect version too. The seller is very friendly, he answered my question and the shipment was free and super fast


Which version did you get? What was the price? I am confused of all the options on their Ebay page... you've got:

QNIX QX2710 TRUE10 MATTE
QNIX QX2710 DPMULTI TRUE10 MATTE
QNIX QX2710 SE MATTE WQHD


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OhMyScience*
> 
> Which version did you get? What was the price? I am confused of all the options on their Ebay page... you've got:
> 
> QNIX QX2710 TRUE10 MATTE
> QNIX QX2710 DPMULTI TRUE10 MATTE
> QNIX QX2710 SE MATTE WQHD


You want none of those. The SE is marking, higher rate of dead pixels, hence cheaper. The True10 is not OC friendly. Search this thread, it's been discussed.


----------



## OhMyScience

I was asking a question that I thought was specific to the seller. I have definitely read a lot of this thread, but I am still confused so I was asking the guy who recently purchased from that seller.


----------



## newjacksm

I bought my qnix monitor from euroinside on ebay for 299, came in and there is not one stuck/dead pixel.

How do I overclock the monitor? It looks beautiful.


----------



## OhMyScience

Mike,

Saw your earlier post now, I must've not been searching the right terms. Ordered the same one you and another buyer did from the same seller! Not so patiently waiting!


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daygo*
> 
> Hi mate, i bought mine on ebay (seller: accessorieswhole). I took the "normal" version and i'm lucky because i have no dead pixel. Anyway he has the pixel perfect version too. The seller is very friendly, he answered my question and the shipment was free and super fast


Thanks for the reply.

That's exactly the seller I've been looking at as well... Now I'm just stuck with do I choose the "normal" version or "perfect pixel"..............

Anyone with experience when ordering perfect pixel? Is it just marketing or what's the deal? Which should I get?


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newjacksm*
> 
> How do I overclock the monitor? It looks beautiful.


First post: Overclocking Guide and Help
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> Anyone with experience when ordering perfect pixel? Is it just marketing or what's the deal? Which should I get?


Fist post: FAQ










To recap my personal purchases:
1st kcci-us Pixel Perfect QNIX Matte ($335 US) was ordered Saturday morning March 29th. Tracking # given Monday March 31st. Arrived Wednesday April 2nd.
2nd kcci-us Pixel Perfect QNIX Matte ($335 US) was ordered Sunday evening April 6th. No tracking number yet and it's Wednesday April 9th.


----------



## Grue

Greetings. After _lurking_ here for a several weeks and skimming through this thread I finally pulled the trigger and ordered the PP Qnix from kcci ($335) Sunday 4/6 (Storewithstory declined my $330 offer a week or so ago). I have not received tracking either MikeHawk.

I'm upgrading from an Acer A231H.

For now I'm running A lowly GTX570 so don't expect to OC (although I will attempt it) right away, but upgrading the video card is in the near future. I'm leaning towards the 780 but waiting for prices to come down. If I become impatient I may pick up another 570 off Ebay (around $100) and run SLI until the 8 series rolls out and the 780 is closer to $400.

Update(s), and potentially noobish questions to follow...

Cheers


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snerp*
> 
> Use the brightness control on the monitor. Bottom right of the screen, furthest two buttons to to the left.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> You dont lower brightness with NVCP, use the buttons on the monitor.


THANK YOU both. I've had this monitor for 9 months and until reading your comments, I have been using NVCP to lower my brightness. Which in turn messed up my color profile. All that time I thought that the power button is the only one that works


----------



## hogofwar

Aw, my ultimate PP is still not shipped, and I paid for it on saturday.

Oh well, I'll give it the rest of the week before asking.


----------



## kersgaard

I haven't seen an answer in the 1700 pages of this thread, but I just got my Shimian QH2700. It looks great physically, but when I plugged it in for the first time (I noticed back light bleed) and I have nothing on my screen. I'm using the DVI it came with, the power supply it came with, everything. I have an ASUS GTX 770 and it's plugged into the DVI-D slot. My current Samsung monitor is plugged into the other DVI port. It is working like normal. NVIDIA Control Panel is detecting a monitor by the name of DVI. I have GPU Scaling enabled, but nothing. I'm going to try a different DVI cable soon, but I haven't yet. Am I unlucky and did I get a DOA? I hope not. Thanks for any help and advice!


----------



## djdynamite123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kersgaard*
> 
> I haven't seen an answer in the 1700 pages of this thread, but I just got my Shimian QH2700. It looks great physically, but when I plugged it in for the first time (I noticed back light bleed) and I have nothing on my screen. I'm using the DVI it came with, the power supply it came with, everything. I have an ASUS GTX 770 and it's plugged into the DVI-D slot. My current Samsung monitor is plugged into the other DVI port. It is working like normal. NVIDIA Control Panel is detecting a monitor by the name of DVI. I have GPU Scaling enabled, but nothing. I'm going to try a different DVI cable soon, but I haven't yet. Am I unlucky and did I get a DOA? I hope not. Thanks for any help and advice!


Try another cable. Mine didn't like the cable that came with my 24" BenQ Gaming Monitor, screen was just flashing slowly with red, blue, white,etc? Only worked with the cable that came with the QNIX whilst using a R9 290, the same cable can OC straight to 110 without a problem. 120 and it green lines. I doubt a better cable will perform any better for me.


----------



## kersgaard

I am literally getting only a black screen. I've tried another DVI cable, and a different computer with a Radeon HD 7970. I'm in the process of writing the seller. I'm pretty ticked off. But I guess I knew the risks before ordering it.


----------



## TheGuyMJP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> First post: Overclocking Guide and Help
> Fist post: FAQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To recap my personal purchases:
> 1st kcci-us Pixel Perfect QNIX Matte ($335 US) was ordered Saturday morning March 29th. Tracking # given Monday March 31st. Arrived Wednesday April 2nd.
> 2nd kcci-us Pixel Perfect QNIX Matte ($335 US) was ordered Sunday evening April 6th. No tracking number yet and it's Wednesday April 9th.


kcci-us might have run out of stock. I've noticed that all the other sellers have new listings for the Qnix, so it looks like there's been a fresh batch delivered. I'm guessing that yours should be dispatched within 24 hours if this is the case.


----------



## brialee8

Heh Fedex sent me an invoice for $0.00 paid for customs about 3 weeks after I received my monitor.

After a couple weeks of use, the screen flickering on the RH side of my monitor is gone too...hope I didn't jinx it =p


----------



## nevereasy

Hi all! Just joined.
I've been a fan of yamakasi. now, somehow want to get Qnix. Heard that it has some issues with a model called, QX2710 SE. Should I avoid it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nevereasy*
> 
> Hi all! Just joined.
> I've been a fan of yamakasi. now, somehow want to get Qnix. Heard that it has some issues with a model called, QX2710 SE. Should I avoid it?


Avoid all models - apart from the original.
Unless OCing and input lag aren't something that would bother you


----------



## rows

So you mean only buying the QNIX QX2710 1440p Monitor?


----------



## FiveMg

Long time reader, first time poster. Got lots of great info from this site over the years just wanted to say thanks.
I just pulled the trigger on the QNIX QX2710 Evolution II 27. I ordered it from Amazon and the seller name is Bizaroo.I have a Samsung Sa950 at the moment but having my pc in a new location is giving me lots of glare with the glossy screen.

Been reading good things about the Qnix for the past six months so figured I would roll the dice.
I'm running gtx 660ti in sli (I know these are not ideal for 1440p but I will be upgrading when 800 series comes out).Will update with my experience when I receive the monitor.


----------



## brialee8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Avoid all models - apart from the original.
> Unless OCing and input lag aren't something that would bother you


I'm pretty sure the SE edition is the same as the normal QNIX (as in OCable), its just that it allows for a higher amount of defective pixels


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rows*
> 
> So you mean only buying the QNIX QX2710 1440p Monitor?


indeed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the SE edition is the same as the normal QNIX (as in OCable), its just that it allows for a higher amount of defective pixels


Well, I would stick to what we know


----------



## TomcatV

With the rising prices and dwindling stock of the original QX2710 LED Evolution ll, I thought the following dialog with accessorieswhole would be of interest. While shopping for a genuine overclockableQNIX for a "friend", I ran across the misleading advertising of the True10 multi-input still being advertised as being overclockable to 120Hz time n time again. So I contacted one of the more reputable and customer friendly re-sellers about it. Apparently QNIX directly refuses to acknowledge the problem and continues to "feed" mis-information to it's resellers









see detailed e-mail conversation below ...

Dear accessorieswhole,

It's very confusing which model of the QX2710 you are selling here. It is of great concern because the multi-input True 10 model you are advertising as overclockable to 120Hz is FALSE!!! It may say it is running at 96-100-even 120Hz BUT it will be dropping frames which makes the overclock WORTHLESS! ONLY the single input Dual DVI-D with bypass board will pass the frame dropping tests when overclocked!!!
Please do more research ... start here ... also see attached photo!

http://translate.google.de/translate?hl=de&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pcgameshardware.de%2FLCD-Hardware-154105%2FTests%2FQnix-QX2710-Test-1114181%2F%23a6

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/16330#post_21983941



accessorieswhole common ebay advertising True10 as 120Hz OCable



Sincerely Tom
- ttomcatv

Dear ttomcatv,

Hi

Thanks for contacting us.
We have many Qnix monitors.

1. Qnix QX2710 Matte monitor
DVI-D dual link port only.
0~3 dead/stuck pixels

2. Qnix QX2710 SE Matte monitor
DVI-D dual link port only
0~5 dead/stuck pixels

3. Qnix Multi True10 matte monitor
DVI-D and HDMI port
0~3 dead/stuck pixels

4. Qnix DPmulti True10 matte
DVI-D, HDMI and display port
0~3 dead/stuck pixels

We have buyers overclocked the monitor to 100hz without frame skipping.
The panel itself supports 120hz, but we don't guarantee for it.
We have written it can be overclocked up to 120hz.
If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you.

- accessorieswhole

Dear accessorieswhole,

Thank you for your quick reply. I want to confirm that these models listed below will overclock above 60Hz WITHOUT frame dropping/skipping?

Are you sure your customer OC's @100Hz were for these models without dropping frames as shown in the picture below?



3. Qnix Multi True10 matte monitor
DVI-D and HDMI port
0~3 dead/stuck pixels

4. Qnix DPmulti True10 matte
DVI-D, HDMI and display port
0~3 dead/stuck pixels

see this frame dropping test ...

http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

How to run the test page 1 "Overclocking Guide & Help" step 4
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post

OR read *[THIS]* review of the QNIX QX2710 (LED Evolution ll DPmulti TRUE10) / Update for overclocking ??????

_"The QNIX QX2710 (LED Evolution ll DPmulti TRUE10) can indeed overclock to 120 Hertz, BUT there is no 120 frames per second! The frame skipping check of www.blurbusters.com disclosed that every second image is not output!? It obviously remains at 60 frames per second. Then we have the LCD together with a genuine 120 Hertz LCD in Bildklonmodus operated on a computer and played Counter Strike with at least 120 fps. It quickly becomes clear that the image on the QNix is not nearly as?fluid like on the real 120 Hz LCD."
_

Therefore the 75Hz / 100Hz / 120Hz overclocks are doing NO GOOD as you have frame skipping and Micro-stutter in fast paced graphic intensive applications like FPS gaming!

Sincerely Tom

Dear ttomcatv,

Hi

Thanks for your response.

*Qnix told us the frame rate is decided by the performance of PC (such as graphic card, memory capacity, CPU, cable, etc.)
Qnix monitors can be overclocked to 75Hz~120Hz.
*
If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you.

- accessorieswhole

Dear accessorieswhole,

Thank you for your time. Unfortunately QNIX is ignoring the obvious "Frame Dropping" problem with the True10 models, diverting attention to frames per second and the overall capability of the end user's machine? This is NONSENSE as many user's high-end machines had NO FRAME DROPPING @ 75Hz/96Hz/100Hz/ and even sometimes @ 120Hz with the original QX2710 LED Evolution ll Dual DVI-D (only) with bypass board, then tested the True 10 models on the same machine and had severe frame dropping as evidenced below!

Consequently QNIX is mis-informing you (accessorieswhole) and compromising your good reputation with the High-End Overclocking community!

I personally cannot recommend any re-seller who falsely advertises the True10 models as being overclockable to 75Hz-120Hz. Not a single one of these models has shown to overclock with any measurable improvement without frame dropping! You and QNIX cannot argue the FACTS stated and linked below. If you can please enlighten us!
Sincerely Tom

*UPDATE*

Dear ttomcatv,

Hi

Thanks for your response.
We also contacted Qnix for this issue.
Qnix told us they will make a video to show it overclocks without frame skipping.
Thank you.

- accessorieswhole

When and if I get the Proof video from QNIX, Ill be sure to post









*UPDATE II* ... see *[THIS]* post

======================================================================

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brialee8*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the SE edition is the same as the normal QNIX (as in OCable), its just that it allows for a higher amount of defective pixels


You are exactly right despite what TDub says!







+R

Note: If I had a choice between the original QX2710 and the "SE" model I'd take the original! But note that the SE model has overclocked reliably to 96Hz-100Hz without "frame dropping" ... UNLIKE all the True10 models so far!


----------



## hogofwar

Still waiting on the shipping on my Ultimate PP, hope they aren't desperately looking for any monitor at all, and I get stuck with crappy quality.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Is this the right model to get?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121306346985

I just want the QNIX QX2710 with matte screen and OC to 110Hz/120Hz. Don' t want SE model or TRUE10 model due to OC problems on them.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*
> 
> Is this the right model to get?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121306346985
> 
> I just want the QNIX QX2710 with matte screen and OC to 110Hz/120Hz. Don' t want SE model or TRUE10 model due to OC problems on them.


Looks good - but not sure about the seller - no one has experience with that one.


----------



## Grue

I purchased the monitor you linked to from kcci on Sunday. Still no tracking info, but I'm hoping they just neglected to send it and am listening for the Big Brown truck as I type this







.

Almost wishing I had waited as storewithstory now has the non perfect pixel version for $319 obo (maybe could have got it for $300)


----------



## FiveMg

Update on the shipping for my Qnix from Bizaroo http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUI44US/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .
Ordered Monitor around 6pm or so On April 8. Waiting for monitor to get to Canada but looks like its moving right along.

Got this update around 2 pm today.

7 Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 12:10

6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 21:24
1 Pieces

5 Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 16:35
1 Pieces

4 Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 16:28
1 Pieces

3 Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 15:47
1 Pieces

2 Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 15:47
1 Pieces

1 Shipment picked up SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 11:13
1 Pieces

Hide Details


----------



## Bender16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> I purchased the monitor you linked to from kcci on Sunday. Still no tracking info, but I'm hoping they just neglected to send it and am listening for the Big Brown truck as I type this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Almost wishing I had waited as storewithstory now has the non perfect pixel version for $319 obo (maybe could have got it for $300)


I also bought the monitor from kcci-us last Sunday, and haven't received any kind of tracking number either.
I asked them yesterday when my monitor will be shipped, this was the answer:
Quote:


> Hi,
> 
> Sorry for any inconvenience.
> We check dead pixel, serious light bleeding before shipping.
> standard inspection procedure work is being delayed delivery.
> Hope you understand this.
> Thank you.


Since I was really excited to get the monitor this week, I was greatly disappointed. Then I saw the new listings from "storewithstory" and since alot of people had ordered from them and were really happy with the shipping speed and the quality of the monitor I decided to buy from them aswell.
I asked kcci-us for a refund, and they promptly refunded my money. So now I'm waiting for my new monitor from storewithstory which should (hopefully) arrive monday or tuesday here in Germany.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Look at the price, and it's from Green-sum.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-1440p-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140922305094


----------



## mystycs

Got my monitor from ipsledmonitors.com

Ordered on Monday morning, got it Thursday (live in new york)

No dead pixels, and no blacklight bleeding from what I see.

Was able to overclock to 110hz(max), but i will stay at 96 because thats all i need.

Tried the asus ICC but didnt really change anything so i assume mines good.

Yummy!


----------



## cipp

Has anyone here had issues with their brightness control buttons not functioning? I have an X-STAR DP2710LED. The controls worked fine when I first calibrated it, but now that I want to lower the brightness (it has only been a month..) the controls do not lower or raise the brightness at all. The blue (retina scorching, btw) power LED blinks when I try to adjust the brightness but there is no noticable difference to be seen. I've held the +/- buttons down for a minute and there's still no difference -- the power LED eventually just stops blinking as if I've met the positive/negative limit for the backlight.. but still no difference. What gives? D:










*Edit:* The controls just started working again.. >_>


----------



## moonkikang

Just received a few videos from the QNIX manufacturer.

Not sure if it has already been posted, but here they are (these videos are made by a Korean graphics card/motherboard company; they were requested by QNIX to test their monitors for overclocking):




 (AMD R9 290)
and




 (NVIDIA GTX780)

Also to sum up my meeting with QNIX yesterday:
The true10 models can definitely be overclocked to 120Hz-- but it is hardware dependent. This of course, also applies to FullHD monitors running at 120Hz, but is taken into even more account with a QHD monitor.

The manufactures were actually very shocked to hear that initial reviews were showing that the true10 monitor was not capable for overclocking. Initial thought was that perhaps they pushed out their boards limited or somehow not as they intended. Further analysis showed that the released product was of no issue and functioned as intended.

They also provided me two additional videos that I will upload when I have more time.
The first is an overclock they did within their own company (Overclock 105)

The second is a video made by a user on a Korean reviewer site running the true10 @ 120Hz / 224.1avg FPS in what appears to be tomb raider (GTX780 x2)

Also they wanted to address some of the issues regarding their virtual 4K. It does have a minimal graphics card required for it to be usable. Their reasoning behind the virtual 4K is that they determined that constant use of the computer at a 4K resolution does not seem ideal (I have to somewhat agree after testing and using the Samsung 28" UHD monitors). Use QHD resolutions for everyday uses, and turn on the virtual 4K when you really need that 4K resolution.

Finally, they really wanted to stress that they both pay attention to and care much about consumer feedback and report. They say they want to move forward together WITH the consumers. What exactly that means, is up in the airs. Regardless, they have asked us sellers to forward any feedback regarding their products to them.

Please note that I do not represent the manufacturer in any way or sort-- I am merely just hoping to spread more information regarding the true10 monitor (as spread by the manufacturer).

EDIT: I'll have to also say that I am not an expert in monitors.


----------



## Forceman

I'm new to overclocking monitors, but that 290 YouTube video very clearly shows that monitor is dropping frames when overclocked. It's skipping every other box, which is exactly what you would expect from a 60Hz monitor trying to display 120Hz.

The 780 video shows the same thing. Do they think the "valid" means it is overclocking? Because that's not what the valid indicates on that test.


----------



## SwiftPolar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I'm new to overclocking monitors, but that 290 YouTube video very clearly shows that monitor is dropping frames when overclocked. It's skipping every other box, which is exactly what you would expect from a 60Hz monitor trying to display 120Hz.
> 
> The 780 video shows the same thing. Do they think the "valid" means it is overclocking? Because that's not what the valid indicates on that test.


Exactly. Did my own tests as well on my True10 and it does drop frames. I guess in a way its "overclockable" but the results aren't the same as a true 120Hz or whatever refresh rate monitor.

To be fair they didn't say that it wouldn't drop frames. They said that the monitor can be "overclocked".


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I'm new to overclocking monitors, but that 290 YouTube video very clearly shows that monitor is dropping frames when overclocked. It's skipping every other box, which is exactly what you would expect from a 60Hz monitor trying to display 120Hz.
> 
> The 780 video shows the same thing. Do they think the "valid" means it is overclocking? Because that's not what the valid indicates on that test.


I agree with those points. I could clearly see the True10 skipping frames in the video and for kicks I took a shot a short vid comparing it to my DVI-D only Qnix (which has the new logo on the bezel) and I could see a straight line of blocks versus their videos skipping every other block. As for the virutal 4k, it is just a marketing gimmick and basically all it's doing is super sampling it. You can already do that with just about any display using custom resolutions and your text/desktop icons are going to look pretty small.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> Just received a few videos from the QNIX manufacturer.
> 
> Not sure if it has already been posted, but here they are (these videos are made by a Korean graphics card/motherboard company; they were requested by QNIX to test their monitors for overclocking):
> EDIT: I'll have to also say that I am not an expert in monitors.


They do realise that most people (at least on OCN) have dual, triple SLI/crossfire configs? Or even single (very capable) cards?
That whole "The system has to be able to do it" is utter crap. Just ways for them to avoid the answer.

They don't overclock - it's as simple as that. They should accept it as manufacturers and stop lying.


----------



## darxider

look at this: http://www.anandtech.com/show/7931/qnix-qx2710leddport-review
maybe someone should tell them to fix their comment about these monitors' overclockability.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> look at this: http://www.anandtech.com/show/7931/qnix-qx2710leddport-review
> maybe someone should tell them to fix their comment about these monitors' overclockability.


yeah - but that's clearly the DPport version.
Not sure if the reviewer was aware of that vs the normal version.


----------



## darxider

^ that's the Tru10 version they're testing. at least, that's what the reviewer says in the text: "Instead of being limited to a DVI input, it also includes DSub, DisplayPort, and HDMI inputs. The panel is a 10-bit model which it accomplishes by being 8-bit with A-FRC to simulate the last two bits. Taking full advantage of a 10-bit panel is hard to do and is usually limited to just a few applications, but being true 8-bit is important."


----------



## hogofwar

Monitor got shipped this morning, currently still on korea though.


----------



## JoeArchitect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> look at this: http://www.anandtech.com/show/7931/qnix-qx2710leddport-review
> maybe someone should tell them to fix their comment about these monitors' overclockability.


The reviewer editied to reflect this:

"Update: Commenters pointed out that the QNIX "overclocks" by dropping frames. To test this I used the QNIX on TestUFO.com at both 90Hz and 60Hz and took 1/5 second exposures of the Frame Skipping Check. Below you can see screenshots showing that at 90Hz, the QNIX is simply dropping frames instead of creating extra frames. At 110Hz I began to get sparkles on the screen, obviously pushing the limits of what the panel can do. Because of this, I'd discount any overclocking mentions from the QNIX as it isn't a true higher referesh rate panel."




Pretty poor review IMO since they didn't mention at all that what you really want are the single-input variants of the QNix and X-Star with the Samsung PLS


----------



## jdstock76

Sadface. Just went to order one and the price has gone up $40.

But in light of the above posts I may just save up and hold out for the ASUS one.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Sadface. Just went to order one and the price has gone up $40.
> 
> But in light of the above posts I may just save up and hold out for the ASUS one.


Which Asus one ?


----------



## oldhag

Is this the right model to get?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad381b79a

I just want the QNIX QX2710 with matte screen and OC to 120Hz.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldhag*
> 
> Is this the right model to get?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad381b79a
> 
> I just want the QNIX QX2710 with matte screen and OC to 120Hz.


That's the one. They were taking $330 for them a couple of weeks ago, if they have best offer available.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Can anyone tell me how high the monitor sits with a measurement from bottom of stand to the bottom of the monitor bezel?


----------



## 161029

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7931/qnix-qx2710leddport-review

So apparently you can overclock the multi-input model. This guy had frame skipping problems past 90 though.

Edit: looks like somebody beat me to it.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7931/qnix-qx2710leddport-review
> 
> So apparently you can overclock the multi-input model. This guy had frame skipping problems past 90 though.
> 
> Edit: looks like somebody beat me to it.


Nope, they had frame skipping past 60Hz because it doesn't overclock. Look about three posts up for the edited review.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how high the monitor sits with a measurement from bottom of stand to the bottom of the monitor bezel?


It is 6.5cm from the bottom of the stand to the bottom of the monitor frame (the lowest point on the monitor, except for the buttons).


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> I also bought the monitor from kcci-us last Sunday, and haven't received any kind of tracking number either.
> I asked them yesterday when my monitor will be shipped, this was the answer:
> Since I was really excited to get the monitor this week, I was greatly disappointed. Then I saw the new listings from "storewithstory" and since alot of people had ordered from them and were really happy with the shipping speed and the quality of the monitor I decided to buy from them aswell.
> I asked kcci-us for a refund, and they promptly refunded my money. So now I'm waiting for my new monitor from storewithstory which should (hopefully) arrive monday or tuesday here in Germany.


Exactly which one did you order from storewithstory, could you provide a link?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how high the monitor sits with a measurement from bottom of stand to the bottom of the monitor bezel?


2.75 inches
7 cm


----------



## brialee8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how high the monitor sits with a measurement from bottom of stand to the bottom of the monitor bezel?


I am getting 3 inches or about 7 CM


----------



## Bender16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> Exactly which one did you order from storewithstory, could you provide a link?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Matte-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/331174045961?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4d1b82e909


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> Just received a few videos from the QNIX manufacturer.
> 
> Also to sum up my meeting with QNIX yesterday:
> The true10 models can definitely be overclocked to 120Hz-- but it is hardware dependent. This of course, also applies to FullHD monitors running at 120Hz, but is taken into even more account with a QHD monitor.
> 
> Not sure if it has already been posted, but here they are (these videos are made by a Korean graphics card/motherboard company; they were requested by QNIX to test their monitors for overclocking):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (AMD R9 290)
> and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (NVIDIA GTX780)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The manufactures were actually very shocked to hear that initial reviews were showing that the true10 monitor was not capable for overclocking. Initial thought was that perhaps they pushed out their boards limited or somehow not as they intended. Further analysis showed that the released product was of no issue and functioned as intended.
> 
> They also provided me two additional videos that I will upload when I have more time.
> The first is an overclock they did within their own company (Overclock 105)
> 
> The second is a video made by a user on a Korean reviewer site running the true10 @ 120Hz / 224.1avg FPS in what appears to be tomb raider (GTX780 x2)
> 
> Also they wanted to address some of the issues regarding their virtual 4K. It does have a minimal graphics card required for it to be usable. Their reasoning behind the virtual 4K is that they determined that constant use of the computer at a 4K resolution does not seem ideal (I have to somewhat agree after testing and using the Samsung 28" UHD monitors). Use QHD resolutions for everyday uses, and turn on the virtual 4K when you really need that 4K resolution.
> 
> Finally, they really wanted to stress that they both pay attention to and care much about consumer feedback and report. They say they want to move forward together WITH the consumers. What exactly that means, is up in the airs. Regardless, they have asked us sellers to forward any feedback regarding their products to them.
> 
> Please note that I do not represent the manufacturer in any way or sort-- I am merely just hoping to spread more information regarding the true10 monitor (as spread by the manufacturer).
> 
> EDIT: I'll have to also say that I am not an expert in monitors.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I'm new to overclocking monitors, but that 290 YouTube video very clearly shows that monitor is dropping frames when overclocked. It's skipping every other box, which is exactly what you would expect from a 60Hz monitor trying to display 120Hz.
> 
> The 780 video shows the same thing. Do they think the "valid" means it is overclocking? Because that's not what the valid indicates on that test.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> I agree with those points. I could clearly see the True10 skipping frames in the video and for kicks I took a shot a short vid comparing it to my DVI-D only Qnix (which has the new logo on the bezel) and I could see a straight line of blocks versus their videos skipping every other block. As for the virutal 4k, it is just a marketing gimmick and basically all it's doing is super sampling it. You can already do that with just about any display using custom resolutions and your text/desktop icons are going to look pretty small.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> They do realise that most people (at least on OCN) have dual, triple SLI/crossfire configs? Or even single (very capable) cards?
> That whole "The system has to be able to do it" is utter crap. Just ways for them to avoid the answer.
> 
> They don't overclock - it's as simple as that. They should accept it as manufacturers and stop lying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I also completely agree!!! These guys don't understand true overclocking and "Dropped Frames" ... this is the same Nonsense I was getting from "accessorieswhole" see post *[HERE]*









I suspect recently new registered user "moonkikang" works for one of the Korean re-sellars. I sent him a PM (no response) encouraging him if in fact he has close contacts with QNIX to see the error of their ways and get a proper overclockable single input/bypass board/PLS panel back on the assembly/supply line as the truly OCable QX2710's are becoming more and more scarce and consequent price increases for the stock that is still available.

On the other hand ebay auctions for the QNIX QX2710 single input when they come available can be a good alternative to the rising prices ...

I picked one up today for $225 brand new in the box ... no shipping cause he lives 30mi away and has full warranty still valid ...








http://www.ebay.com/itm/221410626949?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I was also going to bid on this one with one dead pixel that didn't even reach the reserve, if I didn't win the previous one. Someone should make him a decent/realistic offer!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171296751075?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Here's another NEW one with a very reasonable "Buy it now" $269 + $20 ship ... OOOOOOPPPs








It just sold!








http://www.ebay.com/itm/261450491317?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## hogofwar

Just got a text from DHL, my customs is £18.


----------



## october414

What are the "slim" versions i keep on seeing. Do they differ any from the non-slim? Here's one example:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad381b79a

And has anyone experience with kcci-us sold monitors?


----------



## MikeHawk

Question 1: Same bezel.
Question 2: Search this thread.


----------



## peahead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Just got a text from DHL, my customs is £18.


Thats not bad mine was £26


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Question 1: Same bezel.
> Question 2: Search this thread.


1. ok
2. ok

Saw your posts, did you settle the green spots-issue?


----------



## MikeHawk

Nope, had to buy a 2nd monitor. All aboard the failboat... choo choo!!!


----------



## Nnimrod

I apologize in advance if this is an over-asked question

I just upgraded to 335.23 (from an old driver that I had been using for [email protected] purposes) and I seem to be able to OC the refresh rate from within Nvidia control panel? So what's the point of CRU if I can get the same functionality from Nvidia Control Panel?

Also, I've never OC'd a monitor before now









QX2710
GTX 580


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nnimrod*
> 
> I apologize in advance if this is an over-asked question
> 
> I just upgraded to 335.23 (from an old driver that I had been using for [email protected] purposes) and I seem to be able to OC the refresh rate from within Nvidia control panel? So what's the point of CRU if I can get the same functionality from Nvidia Control Panel?
> 
> Also, I've never OC'd a monitor before now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QX2710
> GTX 580


You answered your own question really









Because you have an Nvidia card and not AMD.
AMD ones need CRU to OC their monitors - Nvidia doesn't

PS. Get the new BETA driver - it's amazing


----------



## Nnimrod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You answered your own question really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because you have an Nvidia card and not AMD.
> AMD ones need CRU to OC their monitors - Nvidia doesn't
> 
> PS. Get the new BETA driver - it's amazing


Ok, thanks.

mine won't boot past 96hz lol

Oh well, trying 96hz now in League of Legends.


----------



## october414

So I'm about to order this one, could ya'll just confirm its ok? The slim part in the title is basically what worries me lol, but I guess it's the same..?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad381b79a


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> So I'm about to order this one, could ya'll just confirm its ok? The slim part in the title is basically what worries me lol, but I guess it's the same..?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad381b79a


that's the "normal" one.
Dunno why they have put "slim".

I can reassure you there isn't any "slim" model. They're all the same.

EDIT:
"Dimensions
Product Size(W x H x D) With Stand: 640 x 480 x 170 mm"

I just measured my screen - and it's exactly the same.


----------



## Agenesis

Can some of you 120hz guys give me your settings? I want to test out which ones gives the least gamma shift so I won't have any issues when my spyder 4 arrives this week.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Can some of you 120hz guys give me your settings? I want to test out which ones gives the least gamma shift so I won't have any issues when my spyder 4 arrives this week.


The gamma shift is dependent on refresh rate and independent of the timings used. Tested, measured, confirmed myself.


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> The gamma shift is dependent on refresh rate and independent of the timings used. Tested, measured, confirmed myself.


Oh alright, that's a lot less work to do then. Do you happen to know any "good" timing settings for 120hz? The ones I have works but it was just a crapshoot by me that happened to work.


----------



## caenlen

what timings do I need for CRU to make my 1440p a 4k at 30hz? i tried searching, but 17,000 posts made it kind of difficult...


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Oh alright, that's a lot less work to do then. Do you happen to know any "good" timing settings for 120hz? The ones I have works but it was just a crapshoot by me that happened to work.


horizontal front porch 48, sync width 32, back porch 30, blanking 110 and total 2670
veritcal front porch 1, sync width 1, back porch 3, blanking 5 and total 1445

thats what I use for 120hz. been steady for 6 months now, no issues. i use 120hz.net application instead of colour profile keeper as well to keep my ICC profile locked.


----------



## jl16

when i overclock my qnix qx2710 to 110hz, the right side appears to be darker than the left and there are also some flickering horizontal lines on the right side only. When I change it back to 60hz there is no problems. Am i overclocking the monitor too much?


----------



## MikeHawk

Since it's getting close to EOB Monday over in South Korea and I still don't have a tracking number I sent kcci-us a message to give me a $20 refund or a cancellation, his choice.


----------



## MightEMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nnimrod*
> 
> Ok, thanks.
> 
> mine won't boot past 96hz lol
> 
> Oh well, trying 96hz now in League of Legends.


Mine didn't boot past 96hz either. Well it blackscreened after the W8 logo anyways. I think its a pixel clock limitation of the Fermi cards, or at least that's what I assume based on info from around the web. However 96Hz is way better than 60Hz so no complaints here.


----------



## MightEMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Since it's getting close to EOB Monday over in South Korea and I still don't have a tracking number I sent kcci-us a message to give me a $20 refund or a cancellation, his choice.


Wait, they don't ship the first day so you demand a discount?


----------



## MikeHawk

first time I bought from them I had a tracking # next business day
second time I bought from them I haven't got diddly for over a week


----------



## Grue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Since it's getting close to EOB Monday over in South Korea and I still don't have a tracking number I sent kcci-us a message to give me a $20 refund or a cancellation, his choice.


I ordered from kcci last Sunday and emailed them a couple days ago. He responded today and said it's shipping today (Monday in SK) fyi.


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peahead*
> 
> Thats not bad mine was £26


Excuse my ignorance but isn't customs 20% vat + duty ? I always thought its circa asking price +£100 for these monitors to bring to the UK?


----------



## oldhag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> I ordered from kcci last Sunday and emailed them a couple days ago. He responded today and said it's shipping today (Monday in SK) fyi.


Please post if he gives you tracking number cause i want to order Qnix from him.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> what timings do I need for CRU to make my 1440p a 4k at 30hz? i tried searching, but 17,000 posts made it kind of difficult...


I could hit 60hz using these settings/timings below when i was messing with 4K down sampling!..This was when i had my 2x Asus GTX660 cards and before i switched to AMD and buying x2 R290 cards...I would advise not to try this if are using AMD!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Oh alright, that's a lot less work to do then. Do you happen to know any "good" timing settings for 120hz? The ones I have works but it was just a crapshoot by me that happened to work.


Try these which should will lower your pixel clock nearer to the 450mhz limit!


----------



## hogofwar

Got my qnix in!

0 dead pixels, as far as I can see.

Minimal backlight bleeding (if any) as far as I can see, though I haven't properly checked, will do so later tonight.

Haven't tried OCing.

Good so far, even if I can't OC far.

Stand is horrible though, but i was expecting that.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Got my qnix in!
> 
> 0 dead pixels, as far as I can see.
> 
> Minimal backlight bleeding as far as I can see, though I haven't properly checked, will do so later tonight.
> 
> Haven't tried OCing.
> 
> Good so far, even if I can't OC far.
> 
> Stand is horrible though, but i was expecting that.


Nice very pleased for you and welcome to the club


----------



## llamadal

Hi guys,

I ordered the qnix 2710 evolution 2 from accessorieswhole on ebay, worked out to be around £220 - took 4 days to arrive in the UK, had to pay £45 customs charge, dhl driver waited around while I paid it on the phone, which I appreciate they are not supposed to do.

No BLB from what I can see / no dead pixels - i tried 120 overclock, but got the green lines, so put in 96 and it works perfectly.

Stand is pretty bad but I have quite a firm heavy desk, would drive me mad otherwise.... quite happy with it, not used it much so far - came from a benq xl2410t


----------



## DemiseGR

Pulled the trigger on this bad boy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626?ssPageName=ADME:B:BOC:US:1123

I asked to be marked as a gift and as low a price as possible, lets see









Now to find a decent stand..


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Since it's getting close to EOB Monday over in South Korea and I still don't have a tracking number I sent kcci-us a message to give me a $20 refund or a cancellation, his choice.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> first time I bought from them I had a tracking # next business day
> second time I bought from them I haven't got diddly for over a week


I woke up this morning to a refund in my Paypal account (also got my eBay bucks certificate refunded). So that's nice at least they didn't drag their heels.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> I ordered from kcci last Sunday and emailed them a couple days ago. He responded today and said it's shipping today (Monday in SK) fyi.


Friggen figures, lol


----------



## Paps.pt

One of the best Hardware review/testing sites out there (AnandTech) anado an analysis of our monitor:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7931/qnix-qx2710leddport-review

Cheers

EDIT: the monitor tested has multiple connectios (hdmi, dvi, etc) and dosent OC well (it skips frames) but mine is the DVI only one and I already tested it and it dosent skip any frames at 120Mhz


----------



## MikeHawk

That's the multiport board and considered inferior.


----------



## JoeArchitect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> One of the best Hardware review/testing sites out there (AnandTech) anado an analysis of our monitor:
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/7931/qnix-qx2710leddport-review
> 
> Cheers
> 
> EDIT: the monitor tested has multiple connectios (hdmi, dvi, etc) and dosent OC well (it skips frames) but mine is the DVI only one and I already tested it and it dosent skip any frames at 120Mhz


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> That's the multiport board and considered inferior.


MikeHawk is correct, that model is inferior. It can't actually overclock (due to dropped frames) and has high input lag, so I wouldn't say that this is "our" monitor.


----------



## october414

Might be a silly question but, what should i ask the seller to mark the package as, gift or normal? And at which value?

I live in north europe if that matters..


----------



## TheGuyMJP

Question! If a Qnix can OC to 110Hz using only the nvidia control panel (not adjusting the timings), is it probable that it'd be able to hit 120Hz after tweaking the timings a little?


----------



## JoeArchitect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGuyMJP*
> 
> Question! If a Qnix can OC to 110Hz using only the nvidia control panel (not adjusting the timings), is it probable that it'd be able to hit 120Hz after tweaking the timings a little?


As the original post indicates max overclock can vary widely. I would set your assumption at being able to get 90-96 Hz and anything past that is a silicon lottery. Although if you're unlucky you may only hit 80 Hz


----------



## TheGuyMJP

I think you misunderstood what I meant. The monitor can already OC to 110hz without tweaking the timings. All I'm asking is whether there's potential for a higher OC if the timings are tweaked as well.


----------



## hogofwar

With two monitors, does test UFO not go further than 60hz?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> With two monitors, does test UFO not go further than 60hz?


yeah it has noted problems. Google: qnix multiple monitor, and there's an ocn thread


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> With two monitors, does test UFO not go further than 60hz?


Hi Hogofwar,

Try going to chrome://flags and enabling Override software rendering list. That seems to have let me run successful UFO tests. If you're set to a power option other than high performance, might be worth changing that to see if it has an effect also.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hi Hogofwar,
> 
> Try going to chrome://flags and enabling Override software rendering list. That seems to have let me run successful UFO tests. If you're set to a power option other than high performance, might be worth changing that to see if it has an effect also.


unfortunately neither of these fixes that issue.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> unfortunately neither of these fixes that issue.


hmm, think that's all I changed on Saturday when I ran into this issue. I did power the machine down to make sure the settings stuck, that's the only thing I can think of that might have had an effect other than the above. Sorry I couldn't help you anymore than that.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> With two monitors, does test UFO not go further than 60hz?


I ran two monitors from a single 780TI with no problem. One was overclocked to 120Hz, the other to 110Hz (green lines at 120Hz). They both passed the UFO frame skipping test with no problem.


----------



## James Freeman

Just bought a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DP multi TRUE10.

Its the new AUO AHVA panel (not PLS) which covers 100% sRGB gamut like the BenQ BL2710PT.
This one does not overclock without frame skipping, but if it does at least 72Hz (for movies) without skipping I'm happy.
The ebay page says it does 75Hz natively at 2560x1440 so I'm counting on that.


----------



## october414

Could some one give some advice regarding customs, I'm really confused.

Should I ask the seller to mark it as a gift with a low value (around 120$?)
Or ask them to mark it as a normal product with a semi high value, around 200$ ?

Trying to avoid paying too much at the customs. Any help, thx..


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> Just bought a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DP multi TRUE10.
> 
> Its the new AUO AHVA panel (not PLS) which covers 100% sRGB gamut like the BenQ BL2710PT.
> This one does not overclock without frame skipping, but if it does at least 72Hz (for movies) without skipping I'm happy.


Wouldn't hope too hard, AFAIK it doesn't do ANY OC without frame skipping.


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> Could some one give some advice regarding customs, I'm really confused.
> 
> Should I ask the seller to mark it as a gift with a low value (around 120$?)
> Or ask them to mark it as a normal product with a semi high value, around 200$ ?
> 
> Trying to avoid paying too much at the customs. Any help, thx..


Where are you located?


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Where are you located?


Finland


----------



## hogofwar

How do I use colour profiles?


----------



## James Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> How do I use colour profiles?


Right Click Desktop -> screen resolution -> Advanced Settings -> Color Management (x2) -> Add... -> Browse.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> Wouldn't hope too hard, AFAIK it doesn't do ANY OC without frame skipping.


No matter, the 100% sRGB is what I bought it for.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> Just bought a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DP multi TRUE10.
> 
> Its the new AUO AHVA panel (not PLS) which covers 100% sRGB gamut like the BenQ BL2710PT.
> This one does not overclock without frame skipping, but if it does at least 72Hz (for movies) without skipping I'm happy.
> The ebay page says it does 75Hz natively at 2560x1440 so I'm counting on that.


doesn't OC at all


----------



## hogofwar

Highest i can OC before I can get green flashing lines at the top of my screen is 108hz.

Any way to improve this?

Was able to improve it slightly to go to 110hz with CRU and the reduced option, but didn't make it was 115hz.

Anything else I can do?

got test ufo working on firefox, but apparently frame skipping is bugged on firefox.


----------



## FiveMg

Got my Qnix today (got hit with $75 duties, brings monitor to a total of $475, I live in Canada), after a few hours of messing around was able to Oc to 113hz.
Cant find any dead pixels at all,(looked for an hour straight lol)
Got a fare about of back light bleed on the bottom left and just a little on the bottom right.
The picture on monitor is just plain sweet, I really like it.

I cant seem to get the driver for the Qnix to work, Says some thing along the lines of "Windows found driver software for your device but encountered an error while attempting to install it"
Even at the $475 and the back light bleed. I still think the monitor is worth every penny and I will be keeping it.


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveMg*
> 
> Got my Qnix today (got hit with $75 duties, brings monitor to a total of $475, I live in Canada), after a few hours of messing around was able to Oc to 113hz.
> Cant find any dead pixels at all,(looked for an hour straight lol)
> Got a fare about of back light bleed on the bottom left and just a little on the bottom right.
> The picture on monitor is just plain sweet, I really like it.
> 
> I cant seem to get the driver for the Qnix to work, Says some thing along the lines of "Windows found driver software for your device but encountered an error while attempting to install it"
> Even at the $475 and the back light bleed. I still think the monitor is worth every penny and I will be keeping it.[/qu
> 
> How did you achieve 113hz?


----------



## norcrawler

have a question about my monitor, i over clocked in cru to 80hz and it ran fine, went to go up another 10 and it wouldnt register anything higher than 80hz under the control panels screen resolution. could this be because i didnt patch it? i have current installed drivers for the card (780 ti sc).

so i ended up just trying it through the nvidia control panel and it worked and went straight to 96hz and its working fine. is it not advised to oc through the nvidia panel?? only reason i ask is because i notice most use cru. should i try the patch and try again with cru or should i just call it good? its just really weird that cru worked fine all the way up to 80 but anything past that wouldnt work through the windows control panel
thanks


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> have a question about my monitor, i over clocked in cru to 80hz and it ran fine, went to go up another 10 and it wouldnt register anything higher than 80hz under the control panels screen resolution. could this be because i didnt patch it? i have current installed drivers for the card (780 ti sc).
> 
> so i ended up just trying it through the nvidia control panel and it worked and went straight to 96hz and its working fine. is it not advised to oc through the nvidia panel?? only reason i ask is because i notice most use cru. should i try the patch and try again with cru or should i just call it good? its just really weird that cru worked fine all the way up to 80 but anything past that wouldnt work through the windows control panel
> thanks


Just call it good, or try to go higher, but on an 780 ti you don't need cru or anything else other than Nvidia Control Panel. I've OC'd mine to 120Hz using just Nvidia Control Panel, no other driver or CRU or anything else.


----------



## FiveMg

MelonSplitter,

I just followed the video that Totally Dubbed posted a few pages back and the Nvidia control panel. Im running Gtx 660ti in Sli.
Have monitor running at 100hz atm.


----------



## heak

Hey guys,

A couple weeks ago I picked up a qnix qx2710led, and I've noticed that there's some odd flickering on the monitor. however it's almost always on the right-hand side. it'll flicker a bit, get dim, and then if i tap the right side of the monitor, it *usually* will go back to full brightness

from what i've read i don't believe this to be pwm flicker. is this maybe a faulty backlight that's on the verge of dying? this may just be my perception, but with the bezel off i can see a tiny bit of light from the backlight come out of the little slots along the top, and the light coming out of the right side seems a bit dimmer than the left side.

anyone run into this or know if there's a fix? or am i just boned on this?

edit: i had it overclocked for a bit, but after i started to notice this and reading that overclocking could reduce brightness uniformity, i put it back to 60hz, but the issue is still there


----------



## Grue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldhag*
> 
> Please post if he gives you tracking number cause i want to order Qnix from him.


Update: It's getting late in the day Tuesday in SK and still no tracking info. It's been 9 days since I ordered... they (kcci) said it would ship yesterday. I just sent another email, and am on the verge of cancelling if the reply does not include a tracking #.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heak*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> A couple weeks ago I picked up a qnix qx2710led, and I've noticed that there's some odd flickering on the monitor. however it's almost always on the right-hand side. it'll flicker a bit, get dim, and then if i tap the right side of the monitor, it *usually* will go back to full brightness
> 
> from what i've read i don't believe this to be pwm flicker. is this maybe a faulty backlight that's on the verge of dying? this may just be my perception, but with the bezel off i can see a tiny bit of light from the backlight come out of the little slots along the top, and the light coming out of the right side seems a bit dimmer than the left side.
> 
> anyone run into this or know if there's a fix? or am i just boned on this?
> 
> edit: i had it overclocked for a bit, but after i started to notice this and reading that overclocking could reduce brightness uniformity, i put it back to 60hz, but the issue is still there


Mine (and at least one other person's here) does the same thing - on mine it is a patch about 3 inches along the bottom extending about a third of the way up the screen that seems to flicker. After the monitor is on for a while it goes away, and it isn't affected by overclocking or cables or anything. I think, like you, that it's a dodgy LED or LEDs on the backlight that works better after it warms up. I figure for now I can live with it, since it does go away eventually, but if it gets worse I'll return it.


----------



## autobtsrllout

Ok guys. I couldn't find anything in the 1700+ pages in this group so I'm just gonna ask quick here in case someone else can help me quickly.

I overclocked my QNIX 2710 successfully to 1440p not to long ago. I don't (Or can't, possibly) remember if my monitor used to tear as much as I've started to notice it has been now.

This all started after I noticed my computer having some issues going on with my mobo/cpu but now everythings settled and I've started to see some real tearing just on my desktop. Some webpages or programs make it way worse. This all started after I started having some driver issues and a point where my monitor didn't even recognize a signal anymore. (That's fixed as well.)

I reinstalled all my patchers/drivers/CRU profiles/color profiles and Nvidia profiles. I'm using a GTX 770.

anyone have any idea if overclocks diminish over time or something? I'm afraid I'm going to burn my monitor out (though I know a lot of other people have been successful at keeping over clocks going for a while.)

Hope someone can help me out here or give me some advice! Thanks!


----------



## James Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> doesn't OC at all (Qnix QX2710 DP Multi TRUE10)


Doesn't OC at all above 60Hz?
What about downclock to 48Hz & 50Hz?
Can anyone confirm, or all the guys on this thread buy the PLS version?

If not, it does not matter for me because I use MadVR for movie watching which have a frame blending algorithm, and I don't play games at all.
It was either Qnix, Dell, Asus or BenQ, I went for the Qnix with a versatile Vesa stand.

Hope its better than my Dell U2410.


----------



## oldhag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> Update: It's getting late in the day Tuesday in SK and still no tracking info. It's been 9 days since I ordered... they (kcci) said it would ship yesterday. I just sent another email, and am on the verge of cancelling if the reply does not include a tracking #.


Thanks man.I will avoid him.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> Doesn't OC at all above 60Hz?
> What about downclock to 48Hz & 50Hz?
> Can anyone confirm, or all the guys on this thread buy the PLS version?
> 
> Hope its better than my Dell U2410.


You should refuse the shipment, get a refund and buy a single input Qnix/X-Star which can overclock or an HP ZR2740W (TFT Centrals Review, it can't overclock) which is similarly priced in the US.

Multi-input 1440p monitors can't overclock without dropping frames. You can be the first to down-clock to 48/50hz and verify if the monitor drops frames with this test if you decide to keep it.

The U2410 has always been a mediocre monitor, though the quality alternatives available when it was released were either far more expensive or much smaller. If you are not using the U2410's sRGB mode you might confuse the U2410's over-saturated and inaccurate wide gamut colors for quality, though the True 10 Anandtech's reviewed had washed out colors (low average gamma) are and poor black levels.


----------



## James Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Multi-input 1440p monitors can't overclock without dropping frames. You can be the first to down-clock to 48/50hz and verify if the monitor drops frames with this test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The U2410 is one of the worst IPS panels. If you are not using the U2410's sRGB mode you might confuse the U2410's over-saturated and inaccurate wide gamut colors for quality, though the True 10 Anandtech's reviewed had washed out colors (low average gamma) are and poor black levels.


Thanks MenacingTuba.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not new to Monitors and OC, I have the X-rite i1 Display Pro for calibration and OC'ed many monitors.
I also don't agree with you about the quality of the U2410, on the contrary, it's one of the best panels even now, and yes I use properly calibrated sRGB color space.









BTW, the review you've posted of the Multi port QNIX is not Evolution II, its an older version.

I'll be calibrating the Qnix anyway, so gamma and color will be fine.
I just want to know if I can play 24p movies judder free, while my monitor is in the mail.
Anyone here have the AHVA panel or a Multi Port version to confirm the ability to downclock to 48Hz for movies?

Anyone actually tried to OC a multi-port Qnix to 72Hz (which is below that advertised 75Hz)?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I'm not new to Monitors and OC, I have the X-rite i1 Display Pro for calibration and OC'ed many monitors.
> I also don't agree with you about the quality of the U2410, on the contrary, it's one of the best panels even now, and yes I use properly calibrated sRGB color space.


I measured a U2410 recently. In AdobeRGB and sRGB modes, colors cannot be adjusted and the monitor has a strong green tint out-of-the-box which can only be further fixed by a software color profile. In other modes, the monitor is pretty inaccurate AND wide-gamut. Between these modes, you also get varying contrast-ratio which makes using the U2410 pretty much impossible without a colorimeter and some *very* heavy tinkering to find the sweet spot.
Quote:


> BTW, the review you've posted of the Multi port QNIX is not Evolution II, its an older version.


No, it's a newer model, reviewed just a few days ago.
Quote:


> I'll be calibrating the Qnix anyway, so gamma and color will be fine.


The contrast ratio will still be lower (700:1), uniformity may still be worse, and one would rather have a monitor that is more accurate out-of-the-box so that calibration can achieve better results, otherwise the profile would be correcting both gamma whitepont, and other colors which becomes harder to get semi-perfect results in.

Here's the uniformity on my Qnix QX2710 single-input @ 60Hz @~120cd/m2:








http://i.imgur.com/5cJqhBT.png

Compare that to the uniformity of the True10 in the Anandtech review and see what I mean.
Quote:


> Anyone actually tried to OC a multi-port Qnix to 72Hz (which is below that advertised 75Hz)?


I've OCed a single-input to 72Hz, and yes I can confirm judder-free playback. Multi-port Qnix 99% cannot overclock anywhere beyond 60Hz since they have never seemed to skip to anything but 60Hz.

If you're using the monitor on a PC (you'll be forced to if you want to use 48Hz anyways), then grab the single-input and enjoy a better monitor overall.


----------



## James Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I measured a U2410 recently. In AdobeRGB and sRGB modes, colors cannot be adjusted and the monitor has a strong green tint out-of-the-box which can only be further fixed by a software color profile. In other modes, the monitor is pretty inaccurate AND wide-gamut.


The R,G,B settings for each preset of the U2410 are in the service menu which can be easily accessed.

As I stated earlier, I care less about OC & Refresh Rate because I don't play games AT ALL.
I went for the 100% sRGB coverage of the AHVA panel, and will be using madVR for judder free video on this 60Hz panel.
Samsung PLS & OC is nice for games, but my uses are different, I need the full sRGB gamut covered more than OC ability.

The AU Optronics AHVA is the first W-LED standard (sRGB) gamut panel that actually covers 100% and not 96-99% of the gamut.

From the reviews I see there is a User Mode for RGB somewhere in the OSD to tweaking the white point.
After that I'll calibrate using this custom white point to not lower the contrast ratio.

The Contrast Ratio of the Dell U2410 which I come from is 800:1, so no worries about it, its just how IPS/PLS/AHVA are.

Thanks.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> The R,G,B settings for each preset of the U2410 are in the service menu which can be easily accessed.


That's interesting, never knew that. I will try that out.
Quote:


> As I stated earlier, I care less about OC & Refresh Rate because I don't play games AT ALL.


Yes, but 72Hz is guaranteed to use at least the 60Hz overdrive algorithm while 48Hz is not. 72Hz is also confirmed on the overclockable monitors. As you may know, its sometimes / often tricky to get playback at a lower refresh rate working perfectly, but I'll test that for you sure.
Quote:


> I went for the 100% sRGB coverage of the AHVA panel, and will be using madVR for judder free video on this 60Hz panel.
> Samsung PLS & OC is nice for games, but my uses are different, I need the full sRGB gamut covered more than OC ability.
> 
> The AU Optronics AHVA is the first W-LED standard (sRGB) gamut panel that actually covers 100% and not 96-99% of the gamut.


Mine is 99.7% sRGB and many others are. Some others are 97%. Contrast ratio is 900:1 - 1100:1 vs 700:1 for the True10. Would you rather lose contrast ratio and uniformity which are both very important for movie watching to gain a couple (at most) of insignificant percentage points of sRGB coverage that can barely be discerned?
Quote:


> From the reviews I see there is a User Mode for RGB somewhere in the OSD to tweaking the white point.
> After that I'll calibrate using this custom white point to not lower the contrast ratio.


True but I have no idea whether the sliders work well and allow precise control. I've also found with some displays that if your RGB level curves are not linear and different between grays and white, adjusting the sliders to get an accurate white point could really mess up the grayscale in return and the tradeoff could be not worth it, wish I had the graphs to show you but they aren't with me right now.


----------



## hogofwar

Turns out I do have a bit of backlight bleeding, mostly top left side, with it "pinched" in the middle left side. I don't mind it though, so i'm fine with it.


----------



## James Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> Mine is 99.7% sRGB and many others are. Some others are 97%. Contrast ratio is 900:1 - 1100:1 vs 700:1 for the True10. Would you rather lose contrast ratio and uniformity which are both very important for movie watching to gain a couple (at most) of insignificant percentage points of sRGB coverage that can barely be discerned?


You are right, but my monitor is somewhere over the pacific now so I can't cancel my order now.
Hope mine is more or less uniform without any major backlight bleeding.









I also have an Asus VN279QLB which is an AMVA panel (my first VA panel) with 3000:1 contrast ratio which can be overclocked to 72Hz.
Apparently, I hate the off-center contrast/gamma shift so much (coming from an IPS) that I'm willing to buy a cheap ebay IPS and give up the ability to OC and not tolerate a VA panel artifacts.

Anyway, when my AHVA multi-port Qnix will be here I'll make some measurements and post them here.
I see the TFTCentral will release a review of this monitor soon, that will be interesting.


----------



## heak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Mine (and at least one other person's here) does the same thing - on mine it is a patch about 3 inches along the bottom extending about a third of the way up the screen that seems to flicker. After the monitor is on for a while it goes away, and it isn't affected by overclocking or cables or anything. I think, like you, that it's a dodgy LED or LEDs on the backlight that works better after it warms up. I figure for now I can live with it, since it does go away eventually, but if it gets worse I'll return it.


Did you try any of the steps recommended by people in this thread, ie, tape, straightening the frame, etc? I just straightening the LCD enclosure's frame last night, and waking up this morning everything looked fine, but of course I only looked at it for 5-10 minutes before work. We'll see how it runs tonight.
Quote:


> After the monitor is on for a while it goes away


The strange thing overtime it usually gets _worse_ for me -- generally in the form of the right portion of the panel appearing darker, and have a faint dark spot in the lower right. This doesn't appear to be a permanent issue, however, as the dark region -- and the overall dimming of the right section of the monitor -- comes and goes.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> You are right, but my monitor is somewhere over the pacific now so I can't cancel my order now.
> Hope mine is more or less uniform without any major backlight bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have an Asus VN279QLB which is an AMVA panel (my first VA panel) with 3000:1 contrast ratio which can be overclocked to 72Hz.
> Apparently, I hate the off-center contrast/gamma shift so much (coming from an IPS) that I'm willing to buy a cheap ebay IPS and give up the ability to OC and not tolerate a VA panel artifacts.
> 
> Anyway, when my AHVA multi-port Qnix will be here I'll make some measurements and post them here.
> I see the TFTCentral will release a review of this monitor soon, that will be interesting.


Yep, you can always measure it and see how it does when it arrives.


----------



## Grue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldhag*
> 
> Thanks man.I will avoid him.


Update (kcci) : I received tracking info this morning. I'm guessing he was pre-selling, waiting for inventory to arrive so you may be good go go now fwiw. Of course I've yet to see the condition on this Pixel Perfect monitor. I'll report back once I've plugged her in.

Cheers


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heak*
> 
> Did you try any of the steps recommended by people in this thread, ie, tape, straightening the frame, etc? I just straightening the LCD enclosure's frame last night, and waking up this morning everything looked fine, but of course I only looked at it for 5-10 minutes before work. We'll see how it runs tonight.
> The strange thing overtime it usually gets _worse_ for me -- generally in the form of the right portion of the panel appearing darker, and have a faint dark spot in the lower right. This doesn't appear to be a permanent issue, however, as the dark region -- and the overall dimming of the right section of the monitor -- comes and goes.


No, I've avoided taking it apart because I don't want to accidentally break something that would cause them to deny a return later on, if I needed to. The first one of these I bought had a dark spot in the corner that was almost exactly the same size as the flickering spot on this one, and someone else had one with a dark spot in the same place and about the same spot as my flickering. That leads me to believe there are multiple LED sections to the backlight, and they sometimes are individually dead or defective. So I don't think there's anything that can be done to fix it unless it was a loose wire or something, but when I watched that teardown video when I had my first monitor I couldn't tell where the backlight control/connections were to even try to troubleshoot it. I think it's just the reason this panel was sold as an A- or whatever.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> You are right, but my monitor is somewhere over the pacific now so I can't cancel my order now.


You can (should) refuse the shipment, get a refund and buy a single input Qnix/X-Star which can overclock or an HP ZR2740W (TFT Centrals Review, it can't overclock) which is similarly priced in the US.


----------



## MikeHawk

Dream-Seller slashed his matte x-stars from $324.90 to $289.90, a nice savings of $35 US.

He's also selling an auction style, I got the bidding up to $280 but the reserve still wasn't met, oh well. N41 on the $289.90 BIN.


----------



## Jetlitheone

So I love the monitor, had it for 3 months almost.

One problem though, it has image retention at 120hz which I dealt with for a while but the gamma shifting and such on part of the display and other things finally got to me...

I switched it to 96hz and shut off my monitor till the IR went away.

And it's still showing up!?

what gives?

Doesn't show up at 60hz and using a monoprice cable.

The IR is the exact same as 120hz

EDIT: only shows up on right side of monitor... lol what


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> have a question about my monitor, i over clocked in cru to 80hz and it ran fine, went to go up another 10 and it wouldnt register anything higher than 80hz under the control panels screen resolution. could this be because i didnt patch it?


That's because you didn't patch the driver. If you use CRU, you need to patch the driver to get around the 330 MHz pixel clock limit for EDID overrides, or you can use the NVIDIA control panel without the patch since you have a GTX 780.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> so i ended up just trying it through the nvidia control panel and it worked and went straight to 96hz and its working fine. is it not advised to oc through the nvidia panel?? only reason i ask is because i notice most use cru. should i try the patch and try again with cru or should i just call it good?


If you use the NVIDIA control panel, make sure to install the qnix.inf file using the Device Manager: qnix.zip (right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the .inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If you're using Windows 8 or 8.1, you need to disable driver signature enforcement first.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Just call it good, or try to go higher, but on an 780 ti you don't need cru or anything else other than Nvidia Control Panel. I've OC'd mine to 120Hz using just Nvidia Control Panel, no other driver or CRU or anything else.


If that's all you did, then you did it wrong. Many games will not use the refresh rate unless you install the qnix.inf file.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nnimrod*
> 
> mine won't boot past 96hz lol
> 
> Oh well, trying 96hz now in League of Legends.


That's because you didn't patch the driver. You have a GTX 580, which has a 400 MHz pixel clock limit unless you use the full patch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightEMatt*
> 
> Mine didn't boot past 96hz either. Well it blackscreened after the W8 logo anyways. I think its a pixel clock limitation of the Fermi cards, or at least that's what I assume based on info from around the web.


That's because you didn't patch the driver. The driver has a 400 MHz pixel clock limit for some Fermi cards, but the full patch takes care of that.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Multi-input 1440p monitors can't overclock without dropping frames. You can be the first to down-clock to 48/50hz and verify if the monitor drops frames with this test if you decide to keep it.


Lower refresh rates would duplicate frames instead of dropping frames, so the test won't work for that. You would need to use the other motion tests to check for judder. Monitors that skip frames generally only work properly at 60 Hz.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Dream-Seller slashed his matte x-stars from $324.90 to $289.90, a nice savings of $35 US.
> 
> He's also selling an auction style, I got the bidding up to $280 but the reserve still wasn't met, oh well. N41 on the $289.90 BIN.


As posted earlier about eBay auction alternatives, I talked with this guy after bidding and wining a brand new in box QX2710 for $225 (just picked it up today) ...











His (someguynextdoor) original auction didn't meet his reserve, I since talked to him again and he told me the reserve was $200 and contact him if my guy didn't come through ... so checkout his auction there is one hardly noticeable dead pixel ... no noticeable BLB and confirmed 96Hz OC ... Check out his auction *[HERE]*









Dear ttomcatv,

Hey Tom,

I purchased it from Neofeel off of Newegg. It was this model that i purchased:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY10G0367

Unfortunately up to 3 dead pixels is ok for the pixel perfect model. I clocked it to 96hz without any frame dropping or artifacts. I didn't go any higher.

Let me know if you need anything else!

- someguynextdoor


----------



## Agenesis

200CDM217Clicks.zip 2k .zip file


120CDM210Clicks.zip 2k .zip file




Here are two ICC profiles for 120HZ @ 120 lumens (10 clicks from dark screen) and 200 lumens (17 clicks from dark screen). YMMV of course but the difference between calibrated and uncalibrated is night and day for me.


----------



## guppysb

Hey guys,

Been researching for a while now, and I have decided to get the Qnix Qx2710 monitor since my GTX 580 won't support the gsync for the ROG Swift.

Is this the correct model that can overclock?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CI3EQA2/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=

Thanks!


----------



## norcrawler

yes, but thats a little overpriced. you can get a pixel perfect for 335 shipped on ebay


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Dream-Seller slashed his matte x-stars from $324.90 to $289.90, a nice savings of $35 US.
> 
> He's also selling an auction style, I got the bidding up to $280 but the reserve still wasn't met, oh well. N41 on the $289.90 BIN.


Just be advised that the last time he ran that sale it took a week to 10 days for him to ship some of them.


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> yes, but thats a little overpriced. you can get a pixel perfect for 335 shipped on ebay


Wouldn't it be easier to return the item via Amazon's policy instead of Ebay's, in case there are dead pixels? I hear Amazon favors their Prime members in certain decisions, from just heresay. I could be completely wrong, so please correct me if I am.


----------



## FiveMg

If I add a colour profile I can't see any change at all, tried several different colour profiles.
Did I miss something?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> 200CDM217Clicks.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> 120CDM210Clicks.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are two ICC profiles for 120HZ @ 120 lumens (10 clicks from dark screen) and 200 lumens (17 clicks from dark screen). YMMV of course but the difference between calibrated and uncalibrated is night and day for me.


have you got one for 96hz bro?
I would like to give it a whirl


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> have you got one for 96hz bro?
> I would like to give it a whirl


Give me the 96hz timings and I'll see what I can do. Or can the panel do 96hz out of the box without any timing adjustment?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Give me the 96hz timings and I'll see what I can do. Or can the panel do 96hz out of the box without any timing adjustment?


does it out the box bro (OC'ed)

This is what Nvidia shows:


----------



## yasamoka

@Agenesis: Use dispcalGUI + ArgyllCMS for calibration and profiling, HCFR for validation. They're better than the stock Spyder software I believe. The Spyder4Express software I was using before introduced banding, was inaccurate, and didn't nearly give the sensor enough time to do all the measurements it should have done.


----------



## norcrawler

looks like i can only get 105hz without getting the green scan lines on top. they flicker in and out. would adjusting timings or a better dvi cable help out? (running the stock dvi that came with the qnix)

using nvidia settings and not cru btw


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> looks like i can only get 105hz without getting the green scan lines on top. they flicker in and out. would adjusting timings or a better dvi cable help out? (running the stock dvi that came with the qnix)
> 
> using nvidia settings and not cru btw


Most see an improvement with different timings ... like these ...

*Horizontal* - front porch 48, sync width 32, back porch 12, blanking 92 and total 2652
*Veritcal* - front porch 1, sync width 1, back porch 3, blanking 5 and total 1445

I've seen some minor variations in Horizontal - back porch and blanking. I bet Lawson will have some suggestions.

Nvidia GPU @ 120Hz will look like this .... TY Lawson








Note: to read the timings (increase image) Rclick lower rhand corner "original" then click image again to magnify











Quick Update ... I think there might be some truth to the older/original QX2710's being more consistent Overclockers!








My recent ebay purchase of a NiB QNIX QX2710 E2 was from a guy that purchased it way back in August 2013 from Green-Sum ($269?) for his dad's.
He bought 2 at the time, thinking his Dad might like one, but lucky for me It sat in storage, until I bought it last weekend.

Wow I was very pleased ... No dead pixels / minimal BLB lower R corner only slightly visible on a black screen. Loaded the QNIX driver and went straight to the NV panel to see what she could do. After following this thread for a couple months I thought I'd be lucky to reach 110Hz and would have been OK with 96Hz. BAM 120Hz right out of the box without even touching the timings, confirmed in Widows and http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping . Had some color shift, will work on that tomorrow, along with some real world gaming impressions. Another thing different from most other member descriptions is my DVI-D stock cable was a beefy 5'er not the commonly described 3' cable, nice for me. I also replaced the power brick cord with one from a Corsair PSU for the US plug (ditched the cheezy adapter). If I have a complaint so far I would take a "Glossy" over this Matte finish any day, but this Matte is an improvement over the older Dell/Samsung Matte finishes









PS long day ... but should I try to lower my pixel clock @120Hz with different timings even though it's clocking fine without changing the timings? Some say you shouldn't be above 450? Is that correct?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> PS long day ... but should I try to lower my pixel clock @120Hz with different timings even though it's clocking fine without changing the timings? Some say you shouldn't be above 450? Is that correct?


450MHz is the max rated clock of the monitor's PCB, so anything past that is considered an overclock. I use these timings to get 120Hz, but it does go past the rated 450MHz. I will agree that the older Qnix's seem to be very robust (mine was also bought used and went straight to 120Hz without any dead pixels or BLB).


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> 200CDM217Clicks.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> 120CDM210Clicks.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are two ICC profiles for 120HZ @ 120 lumens (10 clicks from dark screen) and 200 lumens (17 clicks from dark screen). YMMV of course but the difference between calibrated and uncalibrated is night and day for me.


could you please calibrate it for Adobe RGB 1998 @60Hz? I've been looking everywhere for it on the internet with no avail..


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VENAXIS*
> 
> could you please calibrate it for Adobe RGB 1998 @60Hz? I've been looking everywhere for it on the internet with no avail..




Samsung PLS panels can only cover the sRGB color space which is much smaller than the Adobe RGB color space, so making an ICC profile would be pointless.


----------



## James Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> You can (should) refuse the shipment, get a refund and buy a single input Qnix/X-Star which can overclock


No can do, The return shipment is on the buyer, which will cost me around 100+$.
I'll have to learn to love it.


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Just be advised that the last time he ran that sale it took a week to 10 days for him to ship some of them.


Already got a Fedex tracking # and it says it's in shipping manifest stage. Hopefully the label is actually slapped on my box instead of just gathering dust.


----------



## VENAXIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung PLS panels can only cover the sRGB color space which is much smaller than the Adobe RGB color space, so making an ICC profile would be pointless.


I kind of expected an answer like that due to Qnix's narrow gamut.. However, I am able to notice a difference between sRGB and Adobe RGB 1998. The difference is very mild (1-2%?), yes, but it still worth to use it for photography than the sRGB. I'm mainly looking for a Spyder calibration for these settings as I'm going to use it for photography, and for that I need my screen colors to be as accurate as possible. This is definitely not a perfect screen for photography, but as a temporary solution, it does the job well.


----------



## OhMyScience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> Update: It's getting late in the day Tuesday in SK and still no tracking info. It's been 9 days since I ordered... they (kcci) said it would ship yesterday. I just sent another email, and am on the verge of cancelling if the reply does not include a tracking #.


Same here a few days back. I asked for tracking# and now saying they are out of stock. I am in the process of cancelling my order.


----------



## Bender16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OhMyScience*
> 
> Same here a few days back. I asked for tracking# and now saying they are out of stock. I am in the process of cancelling my order.


I already had enough of them last thursday. Canceled my order, got my money back very quickly (atleast thats something good). Ordered a monitor from storewithstory last thursday and it got shipped this monday and will probably arrive tomorrow even tho i had some problems with the german customs (wanted a proof of payment).
If I would have sticked with my order from kcci the monitor would probably still be in Korea.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> No can do, The return shipment is on the buyer, which will cost me around 100+$.
> I'll have to learn to love it.


If you refuse the shipment they have to pay for return shipping. Sellers and Qnix are falsely advertising that the True 10 can overclock when it can't and does not use LED PWM Dimming/is Flicker Free (proven by TFT Central) but neither of these things are true. You might have to send paypal a few emails to dispute the seller to get a refund but it will be worth it. Make a logical decision and don't be a patsy.


----------



## Johnny Rook

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> Update: It's getting late in the day Tuesday in SK and still no tracking info. It's been 9 days since I ordered... they (kcci) said it would ship yesterday. I just sent another email, and am on the verge of cancelling if the reply does not include a tracking #.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OhMyScience*
> 
> Same here a few days back. I asked for tracking# and now saying they are out of stock. I am in the process of cancelling my order.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> I already had enough of them last thursday. Canceled my order, got my money back very quickly (atleast thats something good). Ordered a monitor from storewithstory last thursday and it got shipped this monday and will probably arrive tomorrow even tho i had some problems with the german customs (wanted a proof of payment).
> If I would have sticked with my order from kcci the monitor would probably still be in Korea.


Not everyone here is anoyed by KCCI. I only have good things to say about KCCI-AU.
I ordered my QNIX from KCCI-AU on April, 3rd at 23:45. Seller shipped the monitor the next day, April, 4th (a Friday). Arrived at Lisbon airport on the 8th. Although being asked for "CE" certification by the Portuguese customs, and losing a week resolving the problem (btw, KCCI-AU did reply to my eBay messages in that period), I am already enjoying my 1440p gaming.
I was lucky enough to get a 0 dead pixel monitor with a minor 2cm backlight bleeding spot


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Rook*
> 
> .
> 
> Not everyone here is anoyed by KCCI. I only have good things to say about KCCI-AU.
> I ordered my QNIX from KCCI-AU on April, 3rd at 23:45. Seller shipped the monitor the next day, April, 4th (a Friday). Arrived at Lisbon airport on the 8th. Although being asked for "CE" certification by the Portuguese customs, and losing a week resolving the problem (btw, KCCI-AU did reply to my eBay messages in that period), I am already enjoying my 1440p gaming.
> I was lucky enough to get a 0 dead pixel monitor with a minor 2cm backlight bleeding spot


I'm glad I read this post. I just ordered a perfect pixel qnix from kcci-us. They have a pretty good feedback rating but I guess only time will tell when I receive mine. I live in Canada and I have NEVER had problems with purchasing on ebay&#8230; hopefully that doesn't change.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

This is directed towards everyone. Assuming you're the type of person that notices it, is there really that much of a visual difference between 5ms on a TN panel vs 1ms on a TN panel ?

I contemplated that new Asus G-sync display, but I still think I want to take a chance with the Qnix.


----------



## djdynamite123

For me, I haven't noticed a blind bit of difference going from a 22" 5ms Benq to a 24" 1ms pro gaming benq monitor to the QNIX that I have now. Iv'e played enough on BF4, and racing sims like rfactor to not notice a blind bit of difference. Maybe it's just me, iv'e tried looking, but everything appears exactly the same, no more or less blur etc.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> No can do, The return shipment is on the buyer, which will cost me around 100+$.
> I'll have to learn to love it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Rook*
> 
> .
> 
> Not everyone here is anoyed by KCCI. I only have good things to say about KCCI-AU.
> I ordered my QNIX from KCCI-AU on April, 3rd at 23:45. Seller shipped the monitor the next day, April, 4th (a Friday). Arrived at Lisbon airport on the 8th. Although being asked for "CE" certification by the Portuguese customs, and losing a week resolving the problem (btw, KCCI-AU did reply to my eBay messages in that period), I am already enjoying my 1440p gaming.
> I was lucky enough to get a 0 dead pixel monitor with a minor 2cm backlight bleeding spot


I made the seller pay back the postage. It's false advertising, you shouldn't be paying postage back for it, simple as. Also, it's not only when you experience problems, that you can really rate a seller. If everything goes to plan, there's good things to say in the speed and quality of the item, but if it were to break, that's when you analyse the good from the bad


----------



## Agenesis

120.zip 9k .zip file

300, 250, 200 (my main profile), and 120 lumens.

96.zip 5k .zip file

200 and 120 lumens.

60.zip 5k .zip file

200 and 120 lumens.




Recalibrated some of my profiles in a total dark room, all 100% sRGB and verified with several passes for all profiles.
All "clicks" starts from when the screen is on the lowest visible brightness, since from what I found out is that at 120hz the absolute lowest brightness goes completely black after some time, say an hour or so. Anything below (96hz, 60) the lowest setting just flickers.


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweetheej*
> 
> [Matte] X-STAR * DP2710LED for only $289
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560-x-1440-27-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


Do you even search bro?


----------



## Jagan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I'm glad I read this post. I just ordered a perfect pixel qnix from kcci-us. They have a pretty good feedback rating but I guess only time will tell when I receive mine. I live in Canada and I have NEVER had problems with purchasing on ebay&#8230; hopefully that doesn't change.


You will likely be waiting a while from kcci-us... I am also from Canada, and I ordered my perfect pixel display on April 12th, and after a quick eBay message exchange, I discovered they won't ship mine until April 22nd when their next shipment of displays arrive. They did offer to refund my money, but I am personally in no rush, but if you want yours quick, probably best to email them for a refund and order from someone else. They did mention that all sellers are currently running into trouble with stock... but I don't know how true that is.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> 120.zip 9k .zip file
> 
> 300, 250, 200 (my main profile), and 120 lumens.
> 
> 96.zip 5k .zip file
> 
> 200 and 120 lumens.
> 
> 60.zip 5k .zip file
> 
> 200 and 120 lumens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recalibrated some of my profiles in a total dark room, all 100% sRGB and verified with several passes for all profiles.
> All "clicks" starts from when the screen is on the lowest visible brightness, since from what I found out is that at 120hz the absolute lowest brightness goes completely black after some time, say an hour or so. Anything below (96hz, 60) the lowest setting just flickers.


sweet thanks! Will try these later!


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Do you even search bro?


Is there something wrong with this one??


----------



## ategro

So my Pixel Perfect Qnix had a bright pixel, something which BigClothCraft's policy didn't allow for pixel perfect models. So I sent him an email and got this back:

_Hello
I am sorry about that.
It seems that my staff had mistake.
How about special discount?
I will hear from you.
Best Regards
Thanks

Clyde

_

Does anyone know what a "special discount" is?

I'd honestly prefer to swap it as this monitor can only reach 107 Hz on very reduced timings...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> So my Pixel Perfect Qnix had a bright pixel, something which BigClothCraft's policy didn't allow for pixel perfect models. So I sent him an email and got this back:
> 
> _Hello
> I am sorry about that.
> It seems that my staff had mistake.
> How about special discount?
> I will hear from you.
> Best Regards
> Thanks
> 
> Clyde
> 
> _
> 
> Does anyone know what a "special discount" is?
> 
> I'd honestly prefer to swap it as this monitor can only reach 107 Hz on very reduced timings...


Instead of paying postage back =- they might offer you a $50 rebate type thing - as it's cheaper for them to do so.
Up to you - but I would return it, as I can't stand it being defective


----------



## ategro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Instead of paying postage back =- they might offer you a $50 rebate type thing - as it's cheaper for them to do so.
> Up to you - but I would return it, as I can't stand it being defective


I see, I'd rather do that aswell then. Is there anything special I need to tell him?

Also, if I get a refund. Are any of the sellers more likely to sell 120 Hz-capable screens or is it all random? What about the Catleap?

Thanks


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

I just had the same thing from Hulustar. One bright dot pixel when the pixel perfect policy doesn't allow it, (one black pixel only) however I can't be bothered to return it, it works great.

Mine is towards the right hand side though and I dont really notice it unless its a totally black screen.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> I see, I'd rather do that aswell then. Is there anything special I need to tell him?
> 
> Also, if I get a refund. Are any of the sellers more likely to sell 120 Hz-capable screens or is it all random? What about the Catleap?
> 
> Thanks


there's no "better oc seller" - so no
As for what to tell him - just say you want an exchange for what you paid for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> I just had the same thing from Hulustar. One bright dot pixel when the pixel perfect policy doesn't allow it, (one black pixel only) however I can't be bothered to return it, it works great.
> 
> Mine is towards the right hand side though and I dont really notice it unless its a totally black screen.


if u can't be asked, then u can get a partial refund


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> there's no "better oc seller" - so no
> As for what to tell him - just say you want an exchange for what you paid for.
> if u can't be asked, then u can get a partial refund


Thanks HD! I'll check it out with the seller. Just watching your video now as I need to figure out where to get the whiz driver. I cannot get Windows to recognize my 96hz overclock even though nvidia control panel detects it.


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> Thanks HD! I'll check it out with the seller. Just watching your video now as I need to figure out where to get the whiz driver. I cannot get Windows to recognize my 96hz overclock even though nvidia control panel detects it.


By Whiz I mean Qnix lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> Thanks HD! I'll check it out with the seller. Just watching your video now as I need to figure out where to get the whiz driver. I cannot get Windows to recognize my 96hz overclock even though nvidia control panel detects it.


whiz driver haha








You're ice cube - being gangsta and all


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Where did you actually get that driver from, you don't really say in the video. Am i missing something?

Thanks heaps and sorry if this has been answered already.


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> whiz driver haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're ice cube - being gangsta and all


Sorry didn't loop you into the reply. Where did you get that Qnix driver from in your vid? It doesn't seem to be in your links on the YouTube vid? Thanks heaps.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> Sorry didn't loop you into the reply. Where did you get that Qnix driver from in your vid? It doesn't seem to be in your links on the YouTube vid? Thanks heaps.


It's in the OP.

Edit: Hmmm, no it isn't. Here's the link:

http://www.monitortests.com/qnix.zip


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> It's in the OP.


Thanks heaps and sorry for being noobish. I'll check out the original post again. Didn't spot it.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> Thanks heaps and sorry for being noobish. I'll check out the original post again. Didn't spot it.


Whoops, my bad, I thought it was but it actually isn't. Not sure why it isn't. Here's the link:

http://www.monitortests.com/qnix.zip


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I don't think it's in the OP...I'm not home now, so I can't link you, sorry!


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Whoops, my bad, I thought it was but it actually isn't. Not sure why it isn't. Here's the link:
> 
> Thanks heaps guys. Very much appreciated
> http://www.monitortests.com/qnix.zip


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I don't think it's in the OP...I'm not home now, so I can't link you, sorry!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I already pmed the OP, to include that, or toastys guide, or even my videos, and the OP didn't really want to do anything...Bit annoyed at him really.
A lot of problems can occur without that driver.


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Whoops, my bad, I thought it was but it actually isn't. Not sure why it isn't. Here's the link:
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/qnix.zip


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I already pmed the OP, to include that, or toastys guide, or even my videos, and the OP didn't really want to do anything...Bit annoyed at him really.
> A lot of problems can occur without that driver.


OK guys, one final question.

I have installed the driver and my 96hz overclock works perfectly. Tested with the blurbusters tools and nvidia control panel recognises it, but i cannot get the windows screen resolution tool to recognise it. I still only have my original options of 59 or 60 hz.

This matters I think, because it is windows that tells games etc what hz the monitor is running, so for example when i play BF4 it still only allows me to play at 59hz if that is what the windows tool is set to.

Any ideas how i can fix this? I have restarted, reinstalled the driver and re-applied my overclock using CRU.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Reboot your pc and redo your oc on the nv panel (indeed as you said it matters)


----------



## Ronalddus

Besides it's not a perfect pixel version, why you shouldn't buy this X-Star ??








It is a lot cheaper then most of the ones that guys recommend on this forum

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560-x-1440-27-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronalddus*
> 
> Besides it's not a perfect pixel version, why you shouldn't buy this X-Star ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a lot cheaper then most of the ones that guys recommend on this forum
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560-x-1440-27-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


who said you shouldn't buy it? It's a good price


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronalddus*
> 
> Besides it's not a perfect pixel version, why you shouldn't buy this X-Star ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a lot cheaper then most of the ones that guys recommend on this forum
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560-x-1440-27-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


From what others have said in this forum, the X-Star is the same as the QNIX. Same company, same monitor, different name. There should be no reason to not buy the cheaper of the two, as long as it not being perfect pixel doesn't bother you.


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> who said you shouldn't buy it? It's a good price


Don't know, maybe there was a catch.
I can't order it, because that one doesn't ship to the Netherlands









Tnx


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Thanks[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> So my Pixel Perfect Qnix had a bright pixel, something which BigClothCraft's policy didn't allow for pixel perfect models. So I sent him an email and got this back:
> 
> _Hello
> I am sorry about that.
> It seems that my staff had mistake.
> How about special discount?
> I will hear from you.
> Best Regards
> Thanks
> 
> Clyde
> 
> _
> 
> Does anyone know what a "special discount" is?
> 
> I'd honestly prefer to swap it as this monitor can only reach 107 Hz on very reduced timings...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> I see, I'd rather do that aswell then. Is there anything special I need to tell him?
> 
> Also, if I get a refund. Are any of the sellers more likely to sell 120 Hz-capable screens or is it all random? What about the Catleap?


Pretty much as said before Partial refund. I ordered my PP from TA-Korea global which I did find a red stuck pixel and his policy for PP was zero dead/stuck. he offered right away to replace it but I countered back saying that I would be willing to accept a refund for the extra premium attached to PP monitors since the location of the pixel is in a very good spot in the upper corner (pretty much the first pixel from the edge of the panel) which I missed the first time i checked it when I had the bezel off. He accepted the offer which I was very pleased since mine was able to get up to 120hz with custom timings/thick monoprice cable. came to be a total of $305 not counting square trade.

Getting anything that can do close to 120 is pretty much luck of the draw.


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Reboot your pc and redo your oc on the nv panel (indeed as you said it matters)


Managed to get this to work by the way, as long as I followed the order from your video once everything was reset back to stock. Thanks heaps.


----------



## Yanoflies

Damn these went up in price, at least for Australians. Do the Qnixes still (possibly) manage 120Hz?


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yanoflies*
> 
> Damn these went up in price, at least for Australians. Do the Qnixes still (possibly) manage 120Hz?


Mine will only do 96hz comfortably. That seems to be about the sweet spot for many of them, but you will also still see lots of people who get 120hz too.


----------



## Yanoflies

That's good to hear.

I'm just too scared to buy (been contemplating for more than a year) because I have such horrible luck and know that I probably will receive one with lots of issues. I probably couldn't live with a couple of stuck/dead pixels as I OCD a bit about small details.

They're $100 more expensive than they used to be a few months ago, hopefully one day I manage to courage to pull the trigger.


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yanoflies*
> 
> That's good to hear.
> 
> I'm just too scared to buy (been contemplating for more than a year) because I have such horrible luck and know that I probably will receive one with lots of issues. I probably couldn't live with a couple of stuck/dead pixels as I OCD a bit about small details.
> 
> They're $100 more expensive than they used to be a few months ago, hopefully one day I manage to courage to pull the trigger.


I totally understand, I am/was just like you







I heard about these monitors maybe 6 months ago, finally pulled the trigger last week. I seriously hope there aren't issues with the panel that I get cause I do tend to get overly obsessive ^^

They still haven't shipped my monitor though, ordered the ultimate perfect pixel from storewithstory.


----------



## Phaedrus2129

Ordered mine yesterday. Yay for tax rebates!


----------



## dklimitless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus2129*
> 
> Ordered mine yesterday. Yay for tax rebates!


Rejoice!

Spending my tax returns on a new rig (rig in sig is sold, going with a mini-itx build) so this lovely monitor will have to wait until summer/fall


----------



## ammarisawake

Hi all, finally decided to purchase the monitor after lurking in this forum. Good information! Ordered from excellent castle on the 14th and got the monitor on the 16th. Haven't tried it out yet as I'm off station for work.


----------



## snapdragon

Review of the True10 http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Review of the True10 http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm


Quote:


> An image was displayed fine at 2560 x 1440 resolution and at 75, 100 and 120Hz refresh rates. We tested these over both DL-DVI and DisplayPort. Although the image was displayed, frames were unfortunately dropped in all cases, meaning this was all rather pointless. Some artefacts were also visible in some situations. It didn't seem to allow any useful overclocking beyond 60Hz sadly. Maybe results will vary with other models in the range of single input variants as some people have reported. The specified ability to overclock up to 120Hz is somewhat misleading for this particular model though.


Quote:


> The screen showed a total average display lag of 22.0ms as measured with SMTT 2. Taking into account half the average G2G response time at 6.6ms, we can estimate that there is ~15.4ms of signal processing lag on this screen. This is quite high and so might not be suitable for fast FPS type gaming for many users.


----------



## Bender16

Got my monitor today!
Wow! What a difference! The colors, the resolution and the size are just amazing.

Here's a pic of my qnix in a dark room, was checking for possible backlight bleeding.



Also not a single bad pixel.

Cheers!


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Got my monitor today!
> Wow! What a difference! The colors, the resolution and the size are just amazing.
> 
> Here's a pic of my qnix in a dark room, was checking for possible backlight bleeding.
> 
> 
> 
> Also not a single bad pixel.
> 
> Cheers!


Looks like 3 major spots. How bad is the BLB in normal usage? You gonna try to correct the frame / tape it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Looks like 3 major spots. How bad is the BLB in normal usage? You gonna try to correct the frame / tape it?


nah that's nothing too special


----------



## Bender16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Looks like 3 major spots. How bad is the BLB in normal usage? You gonna try to correct the frame / tape it?


Honestly it's barely noticeable. I'm probably just gonna leave it as it is, with my luck I'm gonna break something when I'm trying to fix it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Looks like 3 major spots. How bad is the BLB in normal usage? You gonna try to correct the frame / tape it?


Huh? That's within margin of error of being confused with IPS glow. It's fine, actually pretty close to perfect and much much better than a lot of other samples.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Huh? That's within margin of error of being confused with IPS glow. It's fine, actually pretty close to perfect and much much better than a lot of other samples.


That's what I said haha


----------



## Bender16

Yeah I consider myself really lucky with my "backlight bleeding"
I expected it to be much worse, actually felt relieved when I saw that my monitor barely had any.

Really happy with my new monitor!


----------



## Tmplt

I have yet to actually disassemble my monitor to fix the BLB. Does anybody have the link for that guy opening it up from scratch? It's recorded in pieces.





On another note. Does anybody have flickering problems with the provided DVI-D cable at high frequencies? Like 96/110/120?

On an unrelated note, is there a way to clean your screen with house-hold materials?


----------



## GhostFaceKeller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> I totally understand, I am/was just like you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I heard about these monitors maybe 6 months ago, finally pulled the trigger last week. I seriously hope there aren't issues with the panel that I get cause I do tend to get overly obsessive ^^
> 
> They still haven't shipped my monitor though, ordered the ultimate perfect pixel from storewithstory.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yanoflies*
> 
> That's good to hear.
> 
> I'm just too scared to buy (been contemplating for more than a year) because I have such horrible luck and know that I probably will receive one with lots of issues. I probably couldn't live with a couple of stuck/dead pixels as I OCD a bit about small details.
> 
> They're $100 more expensive than they used to be a few months ago, hopefully one day I manage to courage to pull the trigger.


If it helps i can say that I love mine even with one dead pixel and some minor back light bleed. It really is an amazing panel. And the construction of the newer ones isn't even that bad. You will not notice one dead pixel (if you get one) when gaming, (or doing anything else for that matter. I am obsessive too, but even with those issues it is still worth it. Its just a beast of a panel. Add to that no input lag, decent response time and the ability to overclock (mine only goes to 96hz comfortably, but that is fine for me) and you've got a fantastic gaming screen.


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostFaceKeller*
> 
> If it helps i can say that I love mine even with one dead pixel and some minor back light bleed. It really is an amazing panel. And the construction of the newer ones isn't even that bad. You will not notice one dead pixel (if you get one) when gaming, (or doing anything else for that matter. I am obsessive too, but even with those issues it is still worth it. Its just a beast of a panel. Add to that no input lag, decent response time and the ability to overclock (mine only goes to 96hz comfortably, but that is fine for me) and you've got a fantastic gaming screen.


Very well said! You summed up 1762 pages with a 5 line observation! Good job Good effort son!


----------



## blitzed604

Hey guys just a quick question, it seems that the QNIX monitor is purchased alot more than the X Star, anyone have any input into why that may be? it also seems that more people are able to hit 120hz with the QNIX vs X Star even though they are apparently the same company then why is that most X Star wont go over 96hz? im getting this info from the trends analysis in the first post and from the form submission showing alot of QNIX hitting 120hz. I understand that xstar and qnix are the same but why is it then that the qnix is consistently hitting 120hz vs the x star only doing 96hz most of the time. The Xstar is going for 289 right now vs the qnix going for 320 or so.


----------



## ategro

Is it true that buying one of those thick monoprice cables can increase the OC? And by how much?

If yes, is any of these the correct one?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/28AWG-Dual-Link-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B00GFD09TI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1397806799&sr=8-6&keywords=monoprice+dvi-d+cable
http://www.amazon.co.uk/24AWG-Dual-Link-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B004C4ZRGM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1397806799&sr=8-7&keywords=monoprice+dvi-d+cable
http://www.amazon.co.uk/10ft-28AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B00ANAULJM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1397806799&sr=8-8&keywords=monoprice+dvi-d+cable

Thanks guys


----------



## Paps.pt

My monitor overclocks to 120hz easily but I have it at 96hz with the color profile from menacing tuba. I find 96hz to be more than enough for gaming since my 2x Gtx670 in sli setup can't handle more than 96 frames per second in high details on the games I play (battlefield 4,metro 2033,etc) and when I try an older game (Doom 3 HD BFG Edition) I really don't see much difference between 96hz or 120hz. Besides, I tend to believe that this way I am not stressing the monitor as much.
Am I wrong?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> Is it true that buying one of those thick monoprice cables can increase the OC? And by how much?
> 
> If yes, is any of these the correct one?
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/28AWG-Dual-Link-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B00GFD09TI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1397806799&sr=8-6&keywords=monoprice+dvi-d+cable
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/24AWG-Dual-Link-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B004C4ZRGM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1397806799&sr=8-7&keywords=monoprice+dvi-d+cable
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/10ft-28AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B00ANAULJM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1397806799&sr=8-8&keywords=monoprice+dvi-d+cable
> 
> Thanks guys


No cable can guarantee you 120hz as there is more than one factor involved!...However having a good quality cable can do nothing but help and i can easily hit 120hz and can down sample 4k at 60hz using the cable i have linked below!... Also I run 120hz 24/7 and have had no problems at all and i don't expect any!

We do not need to add extra voltage to achieve a higher refresh rates with these monitors as we would with our CPU/GPU overclocking so therefore we do not need to worry about voltage degradation of components or other related issues like heat build up within our monitors!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Premium-Gold-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B0012E43II


----------



## bluedevil

Hey lawson, do you have a color profile with a lower pixel clock that might get me to 120hz? I get green lines everywhere when I set it to 120hz. Oh and I have a 24AWG Monoprice cable....
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Hey lawson, do you have a color profile with a lower pixel clock that might get me to 120hz? I get green lines everywhere when I set it to 120hz. Oh and I have a 24 gauge Monoprice cable....
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


HI bluedevil you are more than welcome to use my 120hz optimized timings in the picture below that will bring your pixel clock down 459mhz which is only 9mhz above the 450mhz pixel clock limit!...These timings seem to work for most people if indeed there monitors can achieve 120hz...Also i have linked my 120hz ICC profile below!



Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## TheGuyMJP

I wonder what would happen if you gave the monitor 13v instead of 12v...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Recalibrated some of my profiles in a total dark room, all 100% sRGB and verified with several passes for all profiles.
> All "clicks" starts from when the screen is on the lowest visible brightness, since from what I found out is that at 120hz the absolute lowest brightness goes completely black after some time, say an hour or so. Anything below (96hz, 60) the lowest setting just flickers.


Very nice - but not enough blue for my liking - watagump's profile still nails it for me.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> HI bluedevil you are more than welcome to use my 120hz optimized timings in the picture below that will bring your pixel clock down 459mhz which is only 9mhz above the 450mhz pixel clock limit!...These timings seem to work for most people if indeed there monitors can achieve 120hz...Also i have linked my 120hz ICC profile below!
> 
> 
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


Thanks buddy!









edit

No Dice. Looks like 96hz is what it is.


----------



## yasamoka

@Lawson: more heat is actually emitted by the display when run at higher refresh rates. It's handling more data with the higher pixel clock, even if the voltage has not been raised. Linear relation with frequency, exponential relation with voltage. The chip on the PCB, however, is rated for 450Mhz (EP269 display controller), but that's all I'm sure of. Not sure of heat dissipation, PCB components, etc... but anecdotal evidence suggests it's fine. I do run my monitor at 60Hz on the desktop to eliminate side effects and prolong lifespan, anyways. Would have probably ran the monitor OCed 24/7 had there been no side effects.


----------



## MelonSplitter

Just ordered mine from kcci-us Perfect Pixel $328. They sais it will ship on Apr 22nd because they have to ensure the monitor is indeed a PP with minimum BB. Can't wait!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> @Lawson: more heat is actually emitted by the display when run at higher refresh rates. It's handling more data with the higher pixel clock, even if the voltage has not been raised. Linear relation with frequency, exponential relation with voltage. The chip on the PCB, however, is rated for 450Mhz (EP269 display controller), but that's all I'm sure of. Not sure of heat dissipation, PCB components, etc... but anecdotal evidence suggests it's fine. I do run my monitor at 60Hz on the desktop to eliminate side effects and prolong lifespan, anyways. Would have probably ran the monitor OCed 24/7 had there been no side effects.


Yes i run 120hz 24/7 because i have virtually no side affects as in screen uniformity which is virtually unnoticeable and can only been seen if you look really hard on solid green background!...Also i have a very accurate temperature probe from when i was driving milk tankers and we had to test the milk temperature in the vat before we sucked it in the tank!...Anything over 5c then the milk is considered a write off as bacteria can be present over 5c..

However i used this probe when i had the monitor striped down when i was strengthening my frame to cure my BLB and tested for higher temps at 60hz 96hz and 120z on the PCB board and in the monitors case and i could not find a difference in temps!


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paps.pt*
> 
> My monitor overclocks to 120hz easily but I have it at 96hz with the color profile from menacing tuba. I find 96hz to be more than enough for gaming [...] Besides, I tend to believe that this way I am not stressing the monitor as much. Am I wrong?


IMO, not wrong at all. the less you push the components, the longer their lifespan will be.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes i run 120hz 24/7 because i have virtually no side affects as in screen uniformity which is virtually unnoticeable and can only been seen if you look really hard on solid green background!...Also i have a very accurate temperature probe from when i was driving milk tankers and we had to test the milk temperature in the vat before we sucked it in the tank!...Anything over 5c then the milk is considered a write off as bacteria can be present over 5c..
> 
> However i used this probe when i had the monitor striped down when i was strengthening my frame to cure my BLB and tested for higher temps at 60hz 96hz and 120z on the PCB board and in the monitors case and i could not find a difference in temps!


Wow, interesting. Where were you measuring exactly? The display controller?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> Just ordered mine from kcci-us Perfect Pixel $328. They sais it will ship on Apr 22nd because they have to ensure the monitor is indeed a PP with minimum BB. Can't wait!


I ordered mine from kcci-au









Paid on the 9th and still hasn't shipped out yet.......anyone had experience with this seller before?


----------



## Mahalak

Ordered from them last tues
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> Just ordered mine from kcci-us Perfect Pixel $328. They sais it will ship on Apr 22nd because they have to ensure the monitor is indeed a PP with minimum BB. Can't wait!


Just so you know, I ordered mine last week tuesday, 10 days ago, and mine is shipping on the 22nd aswell, they claimed its because of stock issues with the panels - claiming all sellers of the monitor are affected.

Makes me doubtful if they are actually checking for stuff at all, sounds to me they'll just receive stock on the 22nd and send it out straight away.


----------



## MikeHawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> anyone had experience with this seller before?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/17400_100#post_22108295


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/17400_100#post_22108295


Hmmm, thats not very encouraging


----------



## october414

I ordered my ultimate pp-monitor from storewithstory last sunday (13th). Today (18th) i got a response that the product has been shipped. Fingers crossed


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Wow, interesting. Where were you measuring exactly? The display controller?


Yes the display controller when it was apart i placed the probe into the display controller/PCB compartment behind the screen and turned the monitor on with the whole thing laying flat on my desk with the screen laying on top where it should be

Also once the monitor was put back together and upright if you look on the back of the monitor there is a grilled ventilation area on top of the PCB board housing on the back of the case and i could slide the probe into there which i did for 30 mins each test at 60hz 96hz and 120hz and i found that the temps remained fairly constant at around 28.5c to 29.0c

Edit: Its a nice warm day in the UK today so ambient temps are up by a few degrees from when i first ran the tests in the winter!.. I have just re-ran the tests using only 60hz and 120hz...Again for 30 mins each i am seeing no real shift in temps this time remaining around 32.5c to 33.0c


----------



## marsey99

so glad i got mine when i did.

£80 more now


----------



## ategro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No cable can guarantee you 120hz as there is more than one factor involved!...However having a good quality cable can do nothing but help and i can easily hit 120hz and can down sample 4k at 60hz using the cable i have linked below!... Also I run 120hz 24/7 and have had no problems at all and i don't expect any!
> 
> We do not need to add extra voltage to achieve a higher refresh rates with these monitors as we would with our CPU/GPU overclocking so therefore we do not need to worry about voltage degradation of components or other related issues like heat build up within our monitors!
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Premium-Gold-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B0012E43II


How many Hz did this cable improve your OC for you? It's expensive but I'm willing to pay for it if it may help









What other factors can influence the OC?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Holy crap, $70 for a DVI Cable?

you would want it to hit 120hz for that price


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I don't see the point to get an extra 10hz out of a monitor for that ridiculous amount of money.


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> How many Hz did this cable improve your OC for you? It's expensive but I'm willing to pay for it if it may help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What other factors can influence the OC?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No cable can guarantee you 120hz as there is more than one factor involved!...However having a good quality cable can do nothing but help and i can easily hit 120hz and can down sample 4k at 60hz using the cable i have linked below!... Also I run 120hz 24/7 and have had no problems at all and i don't expect any!
> 
> We do not need to add extra voltage to achieve a higher refresh rates with these monitors as we would with our CPU/GPU overclocking so therefore we do not need to worry about voltage degradation of components or other related issues like heat build up within our monitors!
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Premium-Gold-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B0012E43II


I'm curious as well i'm stuck at 96hz. What cable did you use before and how much did it improve your hz?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Neither do i but i'm not gonna tell people how to spend their money.

It's kinda common on here to spend a fair bit of cash for a minimal gain....but hey "In the pursuit of performance"


----------



## blitzed604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> Hey guys just a quick question, it seems that the QNIX monitor is purchased alot more than the X Star, anyone have any input into why that may be? it also seems that more people are able to hit 120hz with the QNIX vs X Star even though they are apparently the same company then why is that most X Star wont go over 96hz? im getting this info from the trends analysis in the first post and from the form submission showing alot of QNIX hitting 120hz. I understand that xstar and qnix are the same but why is it then that the qnix is consistently hitting 120hz vs the x star only doing 96hz most of the time. The Xstar is going for 289 right now vs the qnix going for 320 or so.


Cmon anyone out there have any input on this? i cant wrap my head around why everyone is buying the QNIX when the Xstar is the same monitor. Im also curious as to why the QNIX is able to hit 120hz for more people vs the X star only doing 96hz most of the time


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Neither do i but i'm not gonna tell people how to spend their money.
> 
> It's kinda common on here to spend a fair bit of cash for a minimal gain....but hey "In the pursuit of performance"


haha yeah
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> Cmon anyone out there have any input on this? i cant wrap my head around why everyone is buying the QNIX when the Xstar is the same monitor. Im also curious as to why the QNIX is able to hit 120hz for more people vs the X star only doing 96hz most of the time


Price of the two were the same not long ago.
People bought the QNIX as more people had them - thus there's more support on it, if you were to have a problem.

There's ABSOLUTELY no guarantee of any monitor hitting 120hz.
Furthermore the OP is out-dated with the spreadsheet (look at the last entry)


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> How many Hz did this cable improve your OC for you? It's expensive but I'm willing to pay for it if it may help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What other factors can influence the OC?


I don't know if the cable gave me a higher OC or not as i have only ever used this cable!..Also please don't think that a good quality cable alone will give you a higher OC...Other factors include your graphic cards, drivers and the luck of the silicon lottery with your monitor!....I bought this cable because i wanted to have the best shoot as i could to hit 120hz!... and also because it is of very good quality and it looks good







However i might of hit 120hz on the cable provided who knows!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> Cmon anyone out there have any input on this? i cant wrap my head around why everyone is buying the QNIX when the Xstar is the same monitor. Im also curious as to why the QNIX is able to hit 120hz for more people vs the X star only doing 96hz most of the time


There is no difference one person gets a Qnix and it overclocked to 120hz and so the trend was set!...Its as simple as that because part from the name on the bezel they are one and the same not including the new ones like the true 10 etc


----------



## alexdi26

Nevermind, cable problem. Fixed.


----------



## ategro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> HI bluedevil you are more than welcome to use my 120hz optimized timings in the picture below that will bring your pixel clock down 459mhz which is only 9mhz above the 450mhz pixel clock limit!...These timings seem to work for most people if indeed there monitors can achieve 120hz...Also i have linked my 120hz ICC profile below!
> 
> 
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I don't know if the cable gave me a higher OC or not as i have only ever used this cable!..Also please don't think that a good quality cable alone will give you a higher OC...Other factors include your graphic cards, drivers and the luck of the silicon lottery with your monitor!....I bought this cable because i wanted to have the best shoot as i could to hit 120hz!... and also because it is of very good quality and it looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However i might of hit 120hz on the cable provided who knows!


I see, well thanks a lot.

Your settings before helped me reach 110 hz, by the way. So thanks a lot for that. Do you know if messing with the "total pixels" can have any negative effects?


----------



## Johnny Rook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I ordered mine from kcci-au
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paid on the 9th and still hasn't shipped out yet.......anyone had experience with this seller before?


Every seller has its hick-ups, i suppose.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/17560#post_22122800

I got his one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/121294620917

I actually had a very good experience with kcci-au.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Rook*
> 
> Every seller has its hick-ups, i suppose.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/17560#post_22122800
> 
> I got his one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/121294620917
> 
> I actually had a very good experience with kcci-au.


Thats the exact same one i got









I have sent 2 messages so far an no response yet........only reason i'm a bit worried


----------



## Johnny Rook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Thats the exact same one i got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have sent 2 messages so far an no response yet........only reason *i'm a bit worried*


And rightfully so, I might add!

The long they took to answer one question of mine was 48 hours but, most questions were answered within 24.

I don't know how KCCI as an whole works around its product stock but, if KCCI-AU in particular, advertises 10 monitors available, it should have 10 actual monitors to deliver in that one store, not 10 monitors for all the KCCI stores (four). If that's the case, they are wrong and you should get your money back and buy somewhere else that delivers the monitor on schedule


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Rook*
> 
> And rightfully so, I might add!
> 
> The long they took to answer one question of mine was 48 hours but, most questions were answered within 24.
> 
> I don't know how KCCI as an whole works around its product stock but, if KCCI-AU in particular, advertises 10 monitors available, it should have 10 actual monitors to deliver in that one store, not 10 monitors for all the KCCI stores (four). If that's the case, they are wrong and you should get your money back and buy somewhere else that delivers the monitor on schedule


I got mine when there were 4/10 left so i was fairly confident it would have shipped by now.

if it isn't shipped out by the 22nd then i'll cancel it and get a different one.


----------



## Johnny Rook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I got mine when there were 4/10 left so i was fairly confident it would have shipped by now.
> 
> *if it isn't shipped out by the 22nd then i'll cancel it and get a different one.[*


Yes, I agree.

However, from what I've read in this thread, all the most noticeable sellers are experience same shortage of stock lately so, good luck.

Of course, this doesn't excuse their wrong doing and false advertising, and you should say it in your feedback. imo.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Rook*
> 
> Yes, I agree.
> 
> However, from what I've read in this thread, all the most noticeable sellers are experience same shortage of stock lately so, good luck.
> 
> Of course, this doesn't excuse their wrong doing and false advertising, and you should say it in your feedback. imo.


I will, no doubt there


----------



## Yukon Trooper

I did a quick search but I couldn't find the information I was looking for: what are peoples' experiences with running these monitors @ 1080p and overclocking? Are higher overclocks achievable with reduced resolution? Thanks.


----------



## Johnny Rook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukon Trooper*
> 
> I did a quick search but I couldn't find the information I was looking for: what are peoples' experiences with running these monitors @ 1080p and overclocking? Are higher overclocks achievable with reduced resolution? Thanks.


Why you would get a 1440p monitor to play @1080p is something that escapes me...
However, I can tell you how the games look like when I first load them on my QNIX and coming from a 1080p res. The image seams just like when I scale the games down to 720p on my ASUS 1080p monitor. Exact same feel of blurry and awkward... is hard to describe... sorry. Same thing with monitor overclocked or not. And for me anyways, overclocking isn't affected by resolution: stable 110Hz no matter what. @ 120Hz flickers


----------



## blitzed604

Im about to pull the trigger on this X Star going for 289. Is this the correct one to get if i want to try and overclock i dont want to get stuck with the one that has input lag(hdmi dp version) i believe this is the correct DVI version. Anything else i should know about this monitor before i buy it thanks alot.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190


----------



## Yukon Trooper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Rook*
> 
> Why you would get a 1440p monitor to play @1080p is something that escapes me...
> However, I can tell you how the games look like when I first load them on my QNIX and coming from a 1080p res. The image seams just like when I scale the games down to 720p on my ASUS 1080p monitor. Exact same feel of blurry and awkward... is hard to describe... sorry. Same thing with monitor overclocked or not. And for me anyways, overclocking isn't affected by resolution: stable 110Hz no matter what. @ 120Hz flickers


I only use triple monitors for racing games. 95% of the time I'm concentrated on my center display. Right now, I'm running a G-Sync center with 70Hz sides. I don't have time to appreciate the difference in motion performance between the displays when I'm trying to keep the car on the track going 100mph through a corner side-by-side with another racer.

If I step up to 27" I would likely buy a 1080p G-Sync center and go with Korean side displays because of their overclocking ability. In general, I agree running monitors at their non-native resolutions is silly, but for my side displays I'd rather go with $300 27" Korean displays @ 1080p @ 120Hz than standard $300 27" 1080p @ 60Hz displays.

Anyways, just to confirm: you experienced no difference in overclocking ability going from 1440p to 1080p on your Korean display? Thanks.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yukon Trooper*
> 
> I did a quick search but I couldn't find the information I was looking for: what are peoples' experiences with running these monitors @ 1080p and overclocking? Are higher overclocks achievable with reduced resolution? Thanks.


Yes, they are. The moment I add higher refresh rates @ 1440p, they are available for 1080p as well. The monitor lacks a scaler so the graphics card will be responsible for upscaling the image back to 1440p and that means you're still sending a 1440p signal to the monitor. Same overclock limits apply and all selecting a lower resolution does is get the graphics card to only render at a lower resolution.


----------



## Yukon Trooper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Rook*
> 
> Yes, they are. The moment I add higher refresh rates @ 1440p, they are available for 1080p as well. The monitor lacks a scaler so the graphics card will be responsible for upscaling the image back to 1440p and that means you're still sending a 1440p signal to the monitor. Same overclock limits apply and all selecting a lower resolution does is get the graphics card to only render at a lower resolution.


Thanks for the response. Can you get higher overclocks though compared to 1440p or just the same clocks?

I'm aware I would have to let the GPU do the scaling. That's what I'd like to do. Render in 1080p and scale to 1440p for the performance advantage.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> Im about to pull the trigger on this X Star going for 289. Is this the correct one to get if i want to try and overclock i dont want to get stuck with the one that has input lag(hdmi dp version) i believe this is the correct DVI version. Anything else i should know about this monitor before i buy it thanks alot.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190


Yes that's the correct one to buy and will overclock.


----------



## guppysb

Hey guys, just got my display today, and I am loving it. A small amount of light bleed from the bottom 2 corners, but its still miles better than my Acer 3d monitor.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> Hey guys, just got my display today, and I am loving it.
> 
> However, I can't seem to overclock it. I am running a GTX 580 on Windows 8.1, 64 bit. It is connected with a hefty Dual Link DVI cable from my Acer 3D monitor.
> 
> These are the steps I have followed:
> 1. Uninstalled Nvidia driver 337.50 and did a clean install of 335.23, without Geforce Experience.
> 2. Restarted my system.
> 3. Downloaded the Nvidia patcher and applied full patch.
> 4. Restarted my system.
> 5. Created a CRU profile for my monitor at 96hz, and moved it to the top of the list.
> 6. Restarted my system.
> 
> Whatever I do, I cannot select a refresh rate higher than 60hz from the Nvidia Control Panel, or the Windows monitor settings.
> 
> If anyone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it.


Hmm what you have done sound right and should work!.... However i would not use CRU with Nvida cards and would use the monitor driver method!.. Also using this method you can keep keep Nvidia geforce experience installed as you will not have the conflicts that you have using EDID overrides...Follow my instructions below and all should work fine.

1: open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...

2: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 3:

3: download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

4: Go to Nvidia control panel to custom resolutions and make your 120hz using manual timings and using the exact same timings that i have in my Nvidia control panel from the picture below.. these timings i use for my 120hz OC will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz and you will have a much stronger signal....if you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use these timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution

5: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience...have fun!



qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hmm what you have done sound right and should work!.... However i would not use CRU with Nvida cards and would use the monitor driver method!.. Also using this method you can keep keep Nvidia geforce experience installed as you will not have the conflicts that you have using EDID overrides...Follow my instructions below and all should work fine.
> 
> 1: open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...
> 
> 2: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 3:
> 
> 3: download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/
> 
> 4: Go to Nvidia control panel to custom resolutions and make your 120hz using manual timings and using the exact same timings that i have in my Nvidia control panel from the picture below.. these timings i use for my 120hz OC will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz and you will have a much stronger signal....if you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use these timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution
> 
> 5: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience...have fun!
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file


Hey Lawson, TY SOOOOOOO Much for the reply. Rarely do people take the time to do such a thorough write up and offer help. So once again, thank you.

I have not tried your method, but I found the EVGA pixel clock utility, and its so easy. I just used the slider to select the refresh rate, and it popped up right away on the Nvidia Control Panel. Easy as pie. I verified the refresh rate with blurbusters as well.

I cannot really see your timings, they have resized your image to where it is not legible. Would you mind creating a new screenshot of just the custom resolution window?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> Hey Lawson, TY SOOOOOOO Much for the reply. Rarely do people take the time to do such a thorough write up and offer help. So once again, thank you.
> 
> I have not tried your method, but I found the EVGA pixel clock utility, and its so easy. I just used the slider to select the refresh rate, and it popped up right away on the Nvidia Control Panel. Easy as pie. I verified the refresh rate with blurbusters as well.


I personally would use my method above using the monitor driver method over and above using CRU!... Also i would not use the EVGA pixel clock utility i would only use ToastyX full patch for your card as its a 500 series GPU which requires the full patch *nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe* to remove the 400 MHz limit.


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> Hey Lawson, TY SOOOOOOO Much for the reply. Rarely do people take the time to do such a thorough write up and offer help. So once again, thank you.
> 
> I have not tried your method, but I found the EVGA pixel clock utility, and its so easy. I just used the slider to select the refresh rate, and it popped up right away on the Nvidia Control Panel. Easy as pie. I verified the refresh rate with blurbusters as well.


Ok, I'll give this method a try, ty once again for the reply.

Would you mind posting a screenshot of just the custom resolution window? the website scaled down your entire screenshot, and I cannot read the timings.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> Ok, I'll give this method a try, ty once again for the reply.
> 
> Would you mind posting a screenshot of just the custom resolution window? the website scaled down your entire screenshot, and I cannot read the timings.


If you click on my image again at the bottom right hand corner you will see a button called original if you click on that you will see my picture full screen and will easily see my timing values


----------



## guppysb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> If you click on my image again at the bottom left hand corner you will button called original if you click on that you will see my picture full screen and will easily see my timing values


LOL noob alert on me. TY SOOO Much once again. I'll give everything you said a try.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*


Hey yasamoka i thought this might interest you as i am sure you also have an AMD R9 290 also?

Wattage being pulled from wall at 60hz just browsing the net and typing to you OCN



Wattage being pulled 120hz!...Meaning the card is pulling just over 60 watts of extra power to ramp up the pixel clock to 459mhz...Interesting and i would not of expected such increase!



Edit: Also It worth noting that i should also be able to drop the wattage further at 60hz for desktop use and net browsing if i enabled ULPS!.. However i am not going to do that!...Also I have set up some presets in CCC linked to hot keys so i can flick between refresh rates at the push of a button


----------



## yasamoka

Hey there Lawson. I don't have an R9-290, I have 2x7970. That's a very high increase which is strange, are you sure the clock speeds are not being ramped up to 3D clocks? I need to measure the difference at my side but I'm afraid I don't have one of those gizmos yet. Also, will be off to check ToastyX's forums in a while, see what's up there.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Hey there Lawson. I don't have an R9-290, I have 2x7970. That's a very high increase which is strange, are you sure the clock speeds are not being ramped up to 3D clocks? I need to measure the difference at my side but I'm afraid I don't have one of those gizmos yet. Also, will be off to check ToastyX's forums in a while, see what's up there.


No both cards just ticking over as in the screen shot below..Yes i was also surprised...I know the R9 290 is power hungry but wow over 60 watts!

Also take a note of the GPU VRM power in...At 60hz (7.344w)



At 120hz GPU VRM power in (9.906w)
Also note the temp increase on GPU one at 120hz (45c) at 60hz (37c) the heat is expected as it drawing extra current to ramp up the pixel clock...But still its interesting!.. And it pulls way more current than i would of ever thought!

Edit: The GPU clock has indeed down clocked to idle on the desktop at 120hz as it should do!...However i failed to notice that the memory clock is indeed running flat out at 1350mhz as ToastyX has quite rightly pointed out that it would do!...So the extra wattage being drawn is to feed the pixel clock which is now running at 459mhz when at 120hz and also having to feed 4gb of DDR 5 ram running at 1350mhz which is unable to down clock on all AMD cards at 120hz unless using LCD standard timings!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey yasamoka i thought this might interest you as i am sure you also have an AMD R9 290 also?
> 
> Wattage being pulled from wall at 60hz just browsing the net and typing to you OCN
> 
> 
> 
> Wattage being pulled 120hz!...Meaning the card is pulling just over 60 watts of extra power to ramp up the pixel clock to 459mhz...Interesting and i would not of expected such increase!
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also It worth noting that i should also be able to drop the wattage further at 60hz for desktop use and net browsing if i enabled ULPS!.. However i am not going to do that!...Also I have set up some presets in CCC linked to hot keys so i can flick between refresh rates at the push of a button


wow nice information there bro! +rep


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> wow nice information there bro! +rep


Thanks for the +REP bro...Its also worth noting that on AMD cards the memory clock at 120hz is running flat out mine being ( 1350mhz ) on GPU one all the time!.. Even while idle on the desktop as ToastyX has already quite correctly pointed out that it would!....However the GPU clock its self ramps down to idle on the desktop as it should....So the fairly big increase ( 60W ) of extra current being draw is not only to ramp up the pixel clock to 459mhz it is also has to feed 4gb of ddr 5 Ram running at 1350mhz...

The only way for the memory clock to idle on the desktop using AMD cards is to use LCD standard timings!...However i can not run 120hz using LCD standard timings!...SO I have set hot keys via CCC to flick between refresh rates...and from now on and i shall always flick over to 60hz on the desktop...And over 120hz while gaming....Sorted!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks for the +REP bro...Its also worth noting that on AMD cards the memory clock at 120hz is running flat out mine being ( 1350mhz ) on GPU one all the time!.. Even while idle on the desktop as ToastyX has already quite correctly pointed out that it would!....However the GPU clock its self ramps down to idle on the desktop as it should....So the fairly big increase ( 60W ) of extra current being draw is not only to ramp up the pixel clock to 459mhz it is also has to feed 4gb of ddr 5 Ram running at 1350mhz...
> 
> The only way for the memory clock to idle on the desktop using AMD cards is to use LCD standard timings!...However i can not run 120hz using LCD standard timings!...SO I have set hot keys via CCC to flick between refresh rates...and from now on and i shall always flick over to 60hz on the desktop.


again, great info! +rep


----------



## Bender16

Seems like I got a monitor that cannot OC at all. Can't even do 70hz with the standard cable without blue lines coming up and what not.

Here's my setup.

Qnix QX 2710
DVI cable that was included with the monitor
Gigabyte GTX 770 2gb (Has 2 Dual-Link DVI outputs)
Nvidia driver 337.50 with Geforce Experience installed

What I did:
Installed the Qnix driver for the monitor
Patched the nvidia driver with the patcher
Created a custom resolution with automatic settings, just entered 70 hz

Did I forget something? I don't really mind not being able to overclock since I'm fine with 60hz, but I would have liked to maybe go up to 72hz because I read that it's better for movie playback


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Seems like I got a monitor that cannot OC at all. Can't even do 70hz with the standard cable without blue lines coming up and what not.
> 
> Here's my setup.
> 
> Qnix QX 2710
> DVI cable that was included with the monitor
> Gigabyte GTX 770 2gb (Has 2 Dual-Link DVI outputs)
> Nvidia driver 337.50 with Geforce Experience installed
> 
> What I did:
> Installed the Qnix driver for the monitor
> Patched the nvidia driver with the patcher
> Created a custom resolution with automatic settings, just entered 70 hz
> 
> Did I forget something? I don't really mind not being able to overclock since I'm fine with 60hz, but I would have liked to maybe go up to 72hz because I read that it's better for movie playback


have you gto the DP multi version or any other inputs at the back of your QNIX?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Seems like I got a monitor that cannot OC at all. Can't even do 70hz with the standard cable without blue lines coming up and what not.
> 
> Here's my setup.
> 
> Qnix QX 2710
> DVI cable that was included with the monitor
> Gigabyte GTX 770 2gb (Has 2 Dual-Link DVI outputs)
> Nvidia driver 337.50 with Geforce Experience installed
> 
> What I did:
> Installed the Qnix driver for the monitor
> Patched the nvidia driver with the patcher
> Created a custom resolution with automatic settings, just entered 70 hz
> 
> Did I forget something? I don't really mind not being able to overclock since I'm fine with 60hz, but I would have liked to maybe go up to 72hz because I read that it's better for movie playback


Sound like you have done every thing correct!...have you rebooted after patching the drivers?...Also do you have one gtx770 or 2 in SLI which would mean you need to use the full patch?

Edit: Also if you don't mind about overclocking and hitting 120hz and you are not running SLI you should be able to hit 96hz without using any patch at all!...But will still need the Qnix monitor driver installed!


----------



## Bender16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> have you gto the DP multi version or any other inputs at the back of your QNIX?


Single DVI Input version (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Matte-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/331174045961?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4d1b82e909)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Sound like you have done every thing correct!...have you rebooted after patching the drivers?...Also do you have one gtx770 or 2 in SLI which would mean you need to use the full patch?
> 
> Edit: Also if you don't mind about overclocking and hitting 120hz and you are not running SLI you should be able to hit 96hz without using any patch at all!...But will still need the Qnix monitor driver installed!


Yea, I've rebooted after I installed the qnix driver and then another time after I patched my nvidia driver.
I only have a single 770, not running SLI.

Im probably going to try the other DVI port on my 770 and another DVI cable that I have laying around here


----------



## Outlawed

delete


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Single DVI Input version (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Matte-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/331174045961?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item4d1b82e909)
> Yea, I've rebooted after I installed the qnix driver and then another time after I patched my nvidia driver.
> I only have a single 770, not running SLI.
> 
> Im probably going to try the other DVI port on my 770 and another DVI cable that I have laying around here


ah, make sure it's in the non star connected dvi port on your gpu. Also how do you know it doesn't oc?


----------



## snapdragon

Is this the Qnix Manufacturer


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Is this the Qnix Manufacturer


Looks interesting - thanks for sharing +rep


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ah, make sure it's in the non star connected dvi port on your gpu. Also how do you know it doesn't oc?


No he will be fine using the Star DVI port on his GPU as that port is both analog and digital









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Is this the Qnix Manufacturer


Interesting it does indeed look like the Qnix factory or at lest the Qnix warehouse!....And dam Samsung produce a lot of A- grade panels


----------



## Bender16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ah, make sure it's in the non star connected dvi port on your gpu. Also how do you know it doesn't oc?


Weird blue lines coming up on my screen, here's a photo.



I just noticed that the 770 indeed has one DVI-I Dual Link and one DVI-D Dual Link port, I made sure that it is in the DVI-D Dual Link port. Still the same issue.
Also just tried 3 different cables. 2 of them cannot handle 70 hz. 1 of them can handle 70 hz, but not 72hz. Weird.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No he will be fine using the Star DVI port on his GPU as that port is both analog and digital
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting it does indeed look like the Qnix factory or indeed its warehouse!


No - that's DVI-I
NOT DVI-D
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Weird blue lines coming up on my screen, here's a photo.
> 
> 
> 
> I just noticed that the 770 indeed has one DVI-I Dual Link and one DVI-D Dual Link port, I made sure that it is in the DVI-D Dual Link port. Still the same issue.
> Also just tried 3 different cables. 2 of them cannot handle 70 hz. 1 of them can handle 70 hz, but not 72hz. Weird.


god damn it








Have you tried the stock cable that comes with it and/or making sure the connection is well plugged in? (Someone had an issue where the DVI-D port wasn't plugged in properly)

This would be a first - single input QNIX not able to OC


----------



## lawson67

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No - that's DVI-I
> NOT DVI-D


If your referring to a port that looks like this in the picture below which he should have on his GTX770 then he will be fine to use this port as it is both Analog and digital!... DVI-D means Digital and DVI mean analog and this port caters for both needs perfectly


----------



## Bender16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Weird blue lines coming up on my screen, here's a photo.
> 
> 
> 
> I just noticed that the 770 indeed has one DVI-I Dual Link and one DVI-D Dual Link port, I made sure that it is in the DVI-D Dual Link port. Still the same issue.
> Also just tried 3 different cables. 2 of them cannot handle 70 hz. 1 of them can handle 70 hz, but not 72hz. Weird.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No - that's DVI-I
> NOT DVI-D
> god damn it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried the stock cable that comes with it and/or making sure the connection is well plugged in? (Someone had an issue where the DVI-D port wasn't plugged in properly)
> 
> This would be a first - single input QNIX not able to OC


Yup, tried the stock cable and that's what I'm using right now. Unfortunately no luck so far.
Also made sure that the DVI cables are connected properly.

Btw watched your video on how to OC the Qnix - great video - and followed basically every step but no luck.
Well, as I said I don't really mind since I'm okay with 60hz but thanks for all your help


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> If your referring to a port that looks like this in the picture below which he should have on his GTX770 then he will be fine to use this port as it is both Analog and digital!... DVI-D means Digital and DVI mean analog and this port caters for both needs perfectly


That's a DVI-I port - as far as I'm aware.
Indeed they're both digital, but there are two different ports on the GPUs

See link below:
http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/221/~/what-is-the-difference-between-dvi-i-and-dvi-d%3F

BOTH are on the GPUs nowadays.

Was just stating it JUST IN CASE - as these QNIX's can be picky.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Yup, tried the stock cable and that's what I'm using right now. Unfortunately no luck so far.
> Also made sure that the DVI cables are connected properly.
> 
> Btw watched your video on how to OC the Qnix - great video - and followed basically every step but no luck.
> Well, as I said I don't really mind since I'm okay with 60hz but thanks for all your help


cheers! That's really really unfortunate - I have no idea why it's doing that.
Try it on on another PC for the sake of it?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's a DVI-I port - as far as I'm aware.
> Indeed they're both digital, but there are two different ports on the GPUs
> 
> See link below:
> http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/221/~/what-is-the-difference-between-dvi-i-and-dvi-d%3F
> 
> BOTH are on the GPUs nowadays.
> 
> Was just stating it JUST IN CASE - as these QNIX's can be picky.
> cheers! That's really really unfortunate - I have no idea why it's doing that.
> Try it on on another PC for the sake of it?


No this port does carry both an Analogue and a Digital signal and it will not matter one bit if he uses this port with his duel link DVI-D cable


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No this port does carry both an Analogue and a Digital signal and it will not matter one bit if he uses this port with his duel link DVI-D cable


I know I know - I'm just stating: One carries 2 signals, the other carries only one - so the QNIX might have problems for any given reason.
So - worth mentioning and at least trying.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Is this the Qnix Manufacturer


I was interested to note that they had some x-star boxes, and name on the back of at least one worker. More proof that they are the same company.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I was interested to note that they had some x-star boxes, and name on the back of at least one worker. More proof that they are the same company.


Yes they are the same company!...The biggest surprise for me watching this is the fact that Samsung produce a lot of A- grade panels!... Also i wonder how many times these guys have accidentally head butted each other when greeting each other!...There heads where less than half a foot from each other when they greeted each other!


----------



## Grue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> Update (kcci) : I received tracking info this morning. I'm guessing he was pre-selling, waiting for inventory to arrive so you may be good go go now fwiw. Of course I've yet to see the condition on this Pixel Perfect monitor. I'll report back once I've plugged her in.
> 
> Cheers


I Received my QNIX Perfect Pixel monitor yesterday from KCCI and am happy to report it was worth the wait









Zero dead/stuck pixels, and surprisingly I was able to OC to 120hz (2560x1440) in Nvidia control panel with my meager GTX570. Will check for BLB tonight, I certainly see no glaring light bleed to be concerned with.

It looks amazing compared to my 23" Acer 1080p monitor it replaced.

Is there any reason to install the QNIX drivers at this point? Other than setting up the custom resolution and refresh rate in Nvidia control panel, the only adjustment I made was to lower the brightness a bit.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> I Received my QNIX Perfect Pixel monitor yesterday from KCCI and am happy to report it was worth the wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zero dead/stuck pixels, and surprisingly I was able to OC to 120hz (2560x1440) in Nvidia control panel with my meager GTX570. Will check for BLB tonight, I certainly see no glaring light bleed to be concerned with.
> 
> It looks amazing compared to my 23" Acer 1080p monitor it replaced.
> 
> Is there any reason to install the QNIX drivers at this point? Other than setting up the custom resolution and refresh rate in Nvidia control panel, the only adjustment I made was to lower the brightness a bit.


Yes you will need the Qnix monitor driver installed if you are overclocking via NVCP which is the best way to go using Nvidia!...Without the Qnix inf installed your games will not see your overclock!...Also you will need to use the full patch *nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe* as you are using a 500 series GPU and the full patch will remove the 400mhz limit


----------



## djdynamite123

Is there no way to stop device manager saying: Generic pnp monitor?
I didn't install any QNIX driver for my monitor. I just went through with the single AMD GPU overclocking route, all my games see all my custom refresh rates providing they allow the option to show/change it. Am I missing something?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Is there no way to stop device manager saying: Generic pnp monitor?
> I didn't install any QNIX driver for my monitor. I just went through with the single AMD GPU overclocking route, all my games see all my custom refresh rates providing they allow the option to show/change it. Am I missing something?


If you are using an AMD card and are overclocking using CRU you do not need the Qnix monitor driver installed which will BTW make the Generic pnp monitor disappear...However if you are using an AMD card and are using CRU installing the Qnix monitor driver will make no difference at all!


----------



## djdynamite123

But will it remove the generic pnp?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> But will it remove the generic pnp?


It will indeed









qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## djdynamite123

Cheers bud, have yourself some council pop in the garden on me


----------



## djdynamite123

Actually how do I install it? Should I remove the current and then search for this inf file?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> Actually how do I install it? Should I remove the current and then search for this inf file?


To install the Qnix monitor driver (Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


----------



## djdynamite123

Thankyou kind sir.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> 450MHz is the max rated clock of the monitor's PCB, so anything past that is considered an overclock. I use these timings to get 120Hz, but it does go past the rated 450MHz. I will agree that the older Qnix's seem to be very robust (mine was also bought used and went straight to 120Hz without any dead pixels or BLB).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks Kokin ... +R

Note: Nvidia GPU's (custom res control panel) will look more like this ... TY Lawson











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hmm what you have done sound right and should work!.... However i would not use CRU with Nvida cards and would use the monitor driver method!.. Also using this method you can keep keep Nvidia geforce experience installed as you will not have the conflicts that you have using EDID overrides...Follow my instructions below and all should work fine.
> 
> 1: open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...
> 
> 2: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 3:
> 
> 3: download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/
> 
> 4: Go to Nvidia control panel to custom resolutions and make your 120hz using manual timings and using the exact same timings that i have in my Nvidia control panel from the picture below.. these timings i use for my 120hz OC will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz and you will have a much stronger signal....if you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use these timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution
> 
> 5: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience...have fun!
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I personally would use my method above using the monitor driver method over and above using CRU!... Also i would not use the EVGA pixel clock utility i would only use ToastyX full patch for your card as its a 500 series GPU which requires the full patch *nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe* to remove the 400 MHz limit.
Click to expand...

This is *GREAT* advice for Nvidia GPU's Lawson and needs to be posted in the OP (1st page). ... +R








It's what I did but wasn't easy to figure out if you go by the OP or all the other guides for that matter, including 120Hz.net ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> @Lawson: more heat is actually emitted by the display when run at higher refresh rates. It's handling more data with the higher pixel clock, even if the voltage has not been raised. Linear relation with frequency, exponential relation with voltage. The chip on the PCB, however, is rated for 450Mhz (EP269 display controller), but that's all I'm sure of. Not sure of heat dissipation, PCB components, etc... but anecdotal evidence suggests it's fine. I do run my monitor at 60Hz on the desktop to eliminate side effects and prolong lifespan, anyways. Would have probably ran the monitor OCed 24/7 had there been no side effects.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes the display controller when it was apart i placed the probe into the display controller/PCB compartment behind the screen and turned the monitor on with the whole thing laying flat on my desk with the screen laying on top where it should be
> 
> Also once the monitor was put back together and upright if you look on the back of the monitor there is a grilled ventilation area on top of the PCB board housing on the back of the case and i could slide the probe into there which i did for 30 mins each test at 60hz 96hz and 120hz and i found that the temps remained fairly constant at around 28.5c to 29.0c
> 
> Edit: Its a nice warm day in the UK today so ambient temps are up by a few degrees from when i first ran the tests in the winter!.. I have just re-ran the tests using only 60hz and 120hz...Again for 30 mins each i am seeing no real shift in temps this time remaining around 32.5c to 33.0c
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

More great info and much appreciated, both of you ... +R









I still have to do more learning/research on what exactly the long term effects of an overclocked "pixel clock" could be down the road. Thanks to Lawson's PCB temps above, I'm thinking most of the 120Hz stress goes on the GPU. And possibly even more so with AMD GPU's as Lawson(Toasty) elude to above with the Ram running full out even at the desktop.That's were your increased watt usage is coming from, not so much the pixel clock.
I want to setup Keystroke shortcuts for 60Hz-96Hz (desktop)/120Hz (gaming) like Lawson/Yasamoka and links/tips appreciated.

Well I sold my old 27" (Samsung) 1080p within a day for $180 (it was like new). So $55 bucks to upgrade to [email protected] "HOLY CRAP" why didn't I do it sooner! Still wish I had a glossy, but hey at that price! Like most say it's an incredible upgrade/experience. Even in an SP shooter like Serious Sam 3, where I can push 120fps+ to fully utilize 120Hz, it's a good game to test on. Easily repeatable with pretty fast action ... and if you don't feel the difference then you don't need 120Hz, I felt the difference even between 96Hz and 120Hz. AND like TDub I really want (need?) another 680GTX for the newer shooters, or can I hang on for Maxwell?









For the budget minded don't forget the ebay auctions, especially if you can find an older one







....

"Now Playing" ...

1) http://www.ebay.com/itm/281312768974?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

2) http://www.ebay.com/itm/321383016983?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Is this the Qnix Manufacturer


Very interesting ... pun intended? Wish I understood Korean








Pretty funny guys (see 14min) and they're "real football" fans ... Go Longhorns









That's more than just a distribution center (see 10min mark) ... But jeeesh looks like they have invested heavily in the multi-input "True10" (colorful blue/black boxes) ... An absolutely disappointing panel especially for gamers and overclockers, even without the phony overclock True10's have horrible response times and backlight flicker ... It would be really interesting to see TFT Central put our authenticated/tested OC'd 120Hz panel through their rather complex battery of tests!
Additionally I think TFT Central's review *[HERE]* made a BIG MISTAKE in the review by not reffering it's shortened name as the "True10" instead of QX2710, they are really quite different from our single input PLS QX2710's and must be confusing for guys not paying attention to all the details!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Thanks Kokin ... +R
> 
> Note: Nvidia GPU's (custom res control panel) will look more like this ... TY Lawson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is *GREAT* advice for Nvidia GPU's Lawson and needs to be posted in the OP (1st page). ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's what I did but wasn't easy to figure out if you go by the OP or all the other guides for that matter, including 120Hz.net ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More great info and much appreciated, both of you ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to do more learning/research on what exactly the long term effects of an overclocked "pixel clock" could be down the road. Thanks to Lawson's PCB temps above, I'm thinking most of the 120Hz stress goes on the GPU. And possibly even more so with AMD GPU's as Lawson(Toasty) elude to above with the Ram running full out even at the desktop.That's were your increased watt usage is coming from, not so much the pixel clock.
> I want to setup Keystroke shortcuts for 60Hz-96Hz (desktop)/120Hz (gaming) like Lawson/Yasamoka and links/tips appreciated.
> 
> Well I sold my old 27" (Samsung) 1080p within a day for $180 (it was like new). So $55 bucks to upgrade to [email protected] "HOLY CRAP" why didn't I do it sooner! Still wish I had a glossy, but hey at that price! Like most say it's an incredible upgrade/experience. Even in an SP shooter like Serious Sam 3, where I can push 120fps+ to fully utilize 120Hz, it's a good game to test on. Easily repeatable with pretty fast action ... and if you don't feel the difference then you don't need 120Hz, I felt the difference even between 96Hz and 120Hz. AND like TDub I really want (need?) another 680GTX for the newer shooters, or can I hang on for Maxwell?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the budget minded don't forget the ebay auctions, especially if you can find an older one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> "Now Playing" ...
> 
> 1) http://www.ebay.com/itm/281312768974?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> 2) http://www.ebay.com/itm/321383016983?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Thanks for the + REP Tomcat and yes the graphic card does seem to take most of the strain running at 120hz ( infact all of the strain) and more so as it may seem for the AMD cards!...However i am interested to see if Nvidia cards Ram also downclocks using 5 lines of vertical blanking?...As i quote toastyx here.. " (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen. Even NVIDIA cards won't clock down if the vertical blanking/total is that low."...So i am now interested to see if any of the Nvidia cards Ram is also not down clocking using 1445 vertical totals which is great to use as it results in the pixel clock being very close to the 450mhz limit being 459mhz and which also gives a much stronger signal to hit the magic 120hz overclock!

Also i have experimented at 110hz. which is as high as i could go using LCD Standard timings!.. And the ram does indeed throttle down once on the desktop and the yes the temp goes down by 10c so all of the heat on the GPU at 120hz is coming from the extra current being drawn to feed the 4gb of DDR 5 ram to keep it up clocked to 1350mhz!...In my case that is 60 watts!

My solution to this was easy in CCC you can make presets and a sign hotkeys to these preset i have made one for 60hz and one for 96hz and one for 120hz as in the picture below!...These allow me to at the push of a keystroke change refresh rates so i can quickly move to 60hz once back on the desktop!...Also another method could be used which is to flick over to 110hz while on the desktop or in fact even use 110hz 24/7 as the ram down clocks at 110hz and there is no real noticeable difference from 110hz to 120hz plus you have no extra heat being generated from the GPU and of course you are saving on the electricity bill!..These are just things to consider as we now know these facts


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Is this the Qnix Manufacturer


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks for the + REP Tomcat and yes the graphic card does seem to take most of the strain running at 120hz ( infact all of the strain) and more so as it may seem for the AMD cards!...However i am interested to see if Nvidia cards Ram also downclocks using 5 lines of vertical blanking?...As i quote toastyx here.. " (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen. Even NVIDIA cards won't clock down if the vertical blanking/total is that low."..*.So i am now interested to see if any of the Nvidia cards Ram is also not down clocking* using 1445 vertical totals which is great to use as it results in the pixel clock being very close to the 450mhz limit being 459mhz and which also gives a much stronger signal to hit the magic 120hz overclock!
> 
> Also i have experimented at 110hz. which is as high as i could go using LCD Standard timings!.. And the ram does indeed throttle down once on the desktop and the yes the temp goes down by 10c so all of the heat on the GPU at 120hz is coming from the extra current being drawn to feed the 4gb of DDR 5 ram to keep it up clocked to 1350mhz!...In my case that is 60 watts!
> 
> My solution to this was easy in CCC you can make presets and a sign hotkeys to these preset i have made one for 60hz and one for 96hz and one for 120hz as in the picture below!...These allow me to at the push of a keystroke change refresh rates so i can quickly move to 60hz once back on the desktop!...Also another method could be used which is to flick over to 110hz while on the desktop or in fact even use 110hz 24/7 as the ram down clocks at 110hz and there is no real noticeable difference from 110hz to 120hz plus you have no extra heat being generated from the GPU and of course you are saving on the electricity bill!..These are just things to consider as we now know these facts


You are absolutely right ... My 680 is not downclocking the ram (3105) and only partially the GPU (882) @120Hz (pixel clock 459.856MHz), about a +10c temp increase at the desktop







Also note that with Nvidia we don't have the individual settings for "Back porch" or "Vertical Blanking" well at least I don't with the 335 drivers, haven't tried the 337 beta's yet








Earlier I was hasty and probably read my 96Hz and or 110Hz setting thinking all was good ... now I need to figure out the hotkey setup for custom resolutions (60-96-120Hz) like yours in CCC (Nvidia guys chime in with tips/advise) ... OR just go with 110Hz .


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You are absolutely right ... My 680 is not downclocking the ram (3105) and only partially the GPU (882) @120Hz, about a +10-15c increase at the desktop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also note that with Nvidia we don't have the individual settings for "Back porch" or "Vertical Blanking" well at least I don't with the 335 drivers, haven't tried the 337 beta's yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Earlier I was hasty and probably read my 96Hz and or 110Hz setting thinking all was good ... now I need to figure out the hotkey setup like yours in CCC (Nvidia guys chime in with tips/advise) ... OR just go with 110Hz .


This is interesting. My wattage didn't change appreciably going from 60 to 120Hz (Pixel clock-483.3984Mhz) GPU and memory clock at 324 using a 780TI. Maybe 1 or 2 watts at the most. I also didn't notice any change in temps. (No temp change may be due to water cooling). I came out of SLI mode, and ran just one monitor for this test. I am running the 337 beta drivers, and no, they don't have "Back porch" or "Vertical Blanking" either.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> This is interesting. My wattage didn't change appreciably going from 60 to 120Hz (Pixel clock-483.3984Mhz) GPU and memory clock at 324 using a 780TI. Maybe 1 or 2 watts at the most. I also didn't notice any change in temps. (No temp change may be due to water cooling). I came out of SLI mode, and ran just one monitor for this test. I am running the 337 beta drivers, and no, they don't have "Back porch" or "Vertical Blanking" either.


What are your Vertical totals for your 120hz overclock?

Edit: They surly can not be 1445 if your pixel clock is 483mhz and not everyone would hit 120hz running a pixel clock that high!


----------



## alexdi26

For those of you doing screen calibrations in DispCalGUI, what settings are you using? I'm having a bear of a time getting this to work with my ColorMunki Display. Two profiles shove the gamma curve down to far and crush the blacks at RGB 6. The result doesn't match the image histograms. Out of the box, I see RGB 4 and brighter shadow tones in general.

Here's what I've tried:




These two yield almost identical profiles. Nice colors, but my screens don't agree on the shadows and the black level charts on this site show why:

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

Then I tried an sRGB profile:



This one shows blacks down to RGB 2 and, relative to stock and the other two profiles, raises everything below RGB 30 significantly.

I've got a photo project with about 9000 pictures and I can't trust any of my shadow adjustments. What settings should I be using with this? It's 60 hz, by the way. Thanks!


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Follow my instructions below and all should work fine.
> 
> 1: open CRU hit delete at the top right hand corner of CRU...
> 
> 2: now go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 3:
> 
> 3: download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/
> 
> 4: Go to Nvidia control panel to custom resolutions and make your 120hz using manual timings and using the exact same timings that i have in my Nvidia control panel from the picture below.. these timings i use for my 120hz OC will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz and you will have a much stronger signal....if you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use these timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution
> 
> 5: select your custom resolution from Nvidia control panel and test!....using this method you do NOT need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience...have fun!


Followed this.. and now I am stable at 119hz rather than 120hz... but at least I have the proper drivers now!


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> What are your Vertical totals for your 120hz overclock?
> 
> Edit: They surly can not be 1445 if your pixel clock is 483mhz and not everyone would hit 120hz running a pixel clock that high!


Vertical total @120Hz is 1481. I didn't set this, I just selected 120Hz refresh rate kept the scan type as progressive, and left the timing in automatic.

CustomResolutionNvidia.jpg 111k .jpg file


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexdi26*
> 
> For those of you doing screen calibrations in DispCalGUI, what settings are you using? I'm having a bear of a time getting this to work with my ColorMunki Display. Two profiles shove the gamma curve down to far and crush the blacks at RGB 6. The result doesn't match the image histograms. Out of the box, I see RGB 4 and brighter shadow tones in general.
> 
> Here's what I've tried:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These two yield almost identical profiles. Nice colors, but my screens don't agree on the shadows and the black level charts on this site show why:
> 
> http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
> 
> Then I tried an sRGB profile:
> 
> 
> 
> This one shows blacks down to RGB 2 and, relative to stock and the other two profiles, raises everything below RGB 30 significantly.
> 
> I've got a photo project with about 9000 pictures and I can't trust any of my shadow adjustments. What settings should I be using with this? It's 60 hz, by the way. Thanks!


I set DispCalGUI to measure the white point to native ( as measured ) as the Qnix does not have an OSD to adjust the RGB nearer to a 6500k...Also the Qnix is already very close to 6500k out of the box with mine being an outstanding 6551k out of the box at 60hz...I would also check white and black level drift compensation and set gamma to 2.2 and set medium speed and use the large LUT profile test chart.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> This is interesting. My wattage didn't change appreciably going from 60 to 120Hz (Pixel clock-483.3984Mhz) GPU and memory clock at 324 using a 780TI. Maybe 1 or 2 watts at the most. I also didn't notice any change in temps. (No temp change may be due to water cooling). I came out of SLI mode, and ran just one monitor for this test. I am running the 337 beta drivers, and no, they don't have "Back porch" or "Vertical Blanking" either.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> What are your Vertical totals for your 120hz overclock?
> 
> Edit: They surly can not be 1445 if your pixel clock is 483mhz and not everyone would hit 120hz running a pixel clock that high!
Click to expand...

This is interesting, I didn't think I was misreading my timings earlier ... so I reset my 120Hz timings back to stock, ...
I'm lucky, my rig does this easily without any artifacting or flickering.

Vertical Front Porch 3
Vertical sync width 5
Horizontal Total 2720
Vertical total 1481
Pixel clock of 483.3984Mhz (instead of the tighter custom timings of 459)

EDIT: same as Rolands screenie below ..



*And guess what* ... my GPU now downclocks normally at the desktop - ram 324 / gpu 324 / temps dropped 10c ...

*What the Heck* .... now which 120Hz setting would you use?... we need more info/input


----------



## alexdi26

Out of the box, my screen is closer to 6200K. I think, I have to double-check. I'm also trying to match another screen at 6000K (though I suppose I could recalibrate both for 6500K). I'll try the larger LUT and the two checkbox compensations. Thanks.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Vertical total @120Hz is 1481. I didn't set this, I just selected 120Hz refresh rate kept the scan type as progressive, and left the timing in automatic.
> 
> CustomResolutionNvidia.jpg 111k .jpg file


Thanks for the reply and the picture however i don't think many would have an artefact free 120hz overclock using such a high pixel clock...you are very lucky that it works fine for yourself!..I know that i can not run a 483mhz pixel clock without scan line randomly running over my screen due to such a high pixel clock and i am not sure many others could also!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This is interesting, I didn't think I was misreading my timings earlier ... so I reset my 120Hz timings back to stock, ...
> I'm lucky, my rig does this easily without any artifacting or flickering.
> 
> Vertical Front Porch 3
> Vertical sync width 5
> Horizontal Total 2720
> Vertical total 1481
> Pixel clock of 483.3984Mhz (instead of the tighter custom timings of 459)
> 
> EDIT: same as Rolands screenie below ..
> 
> 
> 
> *And guess what* ... my GPU now downclocks normally at the desktop - ram 324 / gpu 324 / temps dropped 10c ...
> 
> *What the Heck* .... now which 120Hz setting would you use?... we need more info/input


Wow great really pleased for you tomcat however i don't think mine will be fine running such a high pixel clock...however i am going to use your timings tomcat and try...Thanks for posting


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This is interesting, I didn't think I was misreading my timings earlier ... so I reset my 120Hz timings back to stock, ...
> I'm lucky, my rig does this easily without any artifacting or flickering.
> 
> Vertical Front Porch 3
> Vertical sync width 5
> Horizontal Total 2720
> Vertical total 1481
> Pixel clock of 483.3984Mhz (instead of the tighter custom timings of 459)
> 
> EDIT: same as Rolands screenie below ..
> 
> 
> 
> *And guess what* ... my GPU now downclocks normally at the desktop - ram 324 / gpu 324 / temps dropped 10c ...
> 
> *What the Heck* .... now which 120Hz setting would you use?... we need more info/input


I tried Lawson's settings on my second screen, and sure enough, it will run at 120Hz with them. I got green lines at 120 with the automatic settings. However, using the manual settings, I do in fact get the higher GPU memory clock (836), though the gpu clock stays at 324. and a 30 or so wattage change as others have said.


----------



## ategro

So turning the total pixels down affects the GPU negatively, or did I get that wrong? It's the only way I can get over 103, but it's not worth frying my 780 Ti...


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> So turning the total pixels down affects the GPU negatively, or did I get that wrong? It's the only way I can get over 103, but it's not worth frying my 780 Ti...


It definitely affects the memory clock. (My GPU is water cooled, so the temp only went up 1C so I'm not worried about frying anything).


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks for the reply and the picture however i don't think many would have an artefact free 120hz overclock using such a high pixel clock...you are very lucky that it works fine for yourself!..I know that i can not run a 483mhz pixel clock without scan line randomly running over my screen due to such a high pixel clock and i am not sure many others could also!


For what it's worth, two of my three QNIX 2710's handle the 483Mhz pixel clock with no problem.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ategro*
> 
> So turning the total pixels down affects the GPU negatively, or did I get that wrong? It's the only way I can get over 103, but it's not worth frying my 780 Ti...


Yes and no....Lower totals will give you a lower pixel clock which will be nearer to the pixel clock limit of 450mhz...So of course being as near to that as you can gives you a stronger signal and a better chance of hitting 120hz without artefacts...However Not all people will be able to run such a high pixel clock as 483mhz without Artefacts...

Also i have just tried setting a 483mhz pixel clock using the tomcats timings....However i had a couple of scanlines but nothing to bad though!...However even running at pixel clock as high as 483mhz it would seem that the AMD cards memory clock still will not down clock!...I am thinking that this will be the same for most if not all AMD cards


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> For what it's worth, two of my three QNIX 2710's handle the 483Mhz pixel clock with no problem.


Yes i think you will find its because you have a Nvida GPU which is clearly able to run a higher pixel clock and being able to downclock the memory at 483mhz...So it should work on your Qnix monitors if indeed they can hit 120hz which is clear that 2 of yours can do.

Edit: It is worth noting for AMD and indeed some Nvida users that running a lower pixel clock to hit 120hz is still fine even if the memory does not down clock as the extra 10c will not hurt your card and your card will not run any hotter playing games!...As your cards memory clock will be no higher gaming as it is on the desktop unable to down clock!...However your electricity bill should be taken into account and the R9 290 takes an additional 60 watts of power to keep its 4gb of ram clocked to 1350mhz!

I shall carry on using my CCC presets


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes and no....Lower totals will give you a lower pixel clock which will be nearer to the pixel clock limit of 450mhz...So of course being as near to that as you can gives you a stronger signal and a better chance of hitting 120hz without artefacts...However Not all people will be able to run such a high pixel clock as 483mhz without Artefacts...
> 
> Also i have just tried setting a 483mhz pixel clock using the tomcats timings....However i had a couple of scanlines but nothing to bad though!...However even running at pixel clock as high as 483mhz it would seem that the AMD cards memory clock still will not down clock!...I am thinking that this will be the same for most if not all AMD cards


Makes sense ... BUT just to be clear my pixel clock 483 timings are not custom, they are just stock, or as Roland says "automatic", ie the same timings you'll see on all the other Nvidia Control panel resolution timings, without tweaking









Wow Roland ... want to go to Vegas? ...
2 out of three panels OC to 120Hz WITHOUT adjusting pixel timings ... Daaaam








Just out of curiosity when and where did you purchase them again?

3 hours left, this one may go for sub $280 ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321383016983?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## McLaren_F1

Im also using Lawson's settings for 120Hz and works fine although stock 120Hz auto settings i get some minor green lines.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Makes sense ... BUT just to be clear my pixel clock 483 timings are not custom, they are just stock, or as Roland says "automatic", ie the same timings you'll see on all the other Nvidia Control panel resolution timings, without tweaking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow Roland ... want to go to Vegas? ...
> 2 out of three panels OC to 120Hz WITHOUT adjusting pixel timings ... Daaaam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity when and where did you purchase them again?
> 
> 3 hours left, this one may go for sub $280 ...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321383016983?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Yes i am aware that they are standard timings the sad thing is that AMD cards can not downclock even at 483mhz


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Makes sense ... BUT just to be clear my pixel clock 483 timings are not custom, they are just stock, or as Roland says "automatic", ie the same timings you'll see on all the other Nvidia Control panel resolution timings, without tweaking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow Roland ... want to go to Vegas? ...
> 2 out of three panels OC to 120Hz WITHOUT adjusting pixel timings ... Daaaam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity when and where did you purchase them again?
> 
> 3 hours left, this one may go for sub $280 ...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321383016983?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


First one on NewEgg from 27 Korea Monitors on 13Dec2013. (Pixel Perfect for $372US)Overclocks to 120Hz with timing in Automatic.

Two on Ebay from gn_wholesale on 23Dec2013 (Not Pixel Perfect for $309US each) one of which OC's to 120Hz with timing in Automatic. The other will do 110Hz, I haven't tried between 110 and 120Hz, since I run at 96Hz most of the time anyway.

None of the three have stuck/dead pixels, and none have noticeable while using Backlight Bleed.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> Im also using Lawson's settings for 120Hz and works fine although stock 120Hz auto settings i get some minor green lines.


Yep because not all will be able to run such a high pixel clock and hit 120hz without artefacts and stock timings sets the pixel clock to 483mhz. .. ..BTW what GPU do you have Nvidia or AMD?.. And does your memory down clock using my custom timings on the desktop?


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yep because not all will be able to run such a high pixel clock and hit 120hz without artefacts and stock timings sets the pixel clock to 483mhz. .. ..BTW what GPU do you have Nvidia or AMD?.. And does your memory down clock using my custom timings on the desktop?


Im using AMD 7970 GPU with Catalyst v13.12 drivers. Heres a picture of the config


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexdi26*




@Lawson: it's alright if you calibrate a monitor meant to be at 6500K, to 6500K. 6550K is barely off 6500K but your grayscale might be off 6500K. In some cases, calibrating the monitor whitepoint via OSD to 6500K means that the grayscale is even less accurate, so this is a case-by-case basis. Regardless, native whitepoint should only be used for displays that are so far off 6500K that calibrating them to 6500K will lower the white level and color palette considerably and reduce the contrast ratio.

I like to verify my profiles with HCFR. Highly recommended.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 
> 
> @Lawson: it's alright if you calibrate a monitor meant to be at 6500K, to 6500K. 6550K is barely off 6500K but your grayscale might be off 6500K. In some cases, calibrating the monitor whitepoint via OSD to 6500K means that the grayscale is even less accurate, so this is a case-by-case basis. Regardless, native whitepoint should only be used for displays that are so far off 6500K that calibrating them to 6500K will lower the white level and color palette considerably and reduce the contrast ratio.
> 
> I like to verify my profiles with HCFR. Highly recommended.


I hate calibrating to 6500k!.. Calibrating to a native white point looks great on my monitor also 6500k is way to cool for me with a blue/green tint....Native looks perfect on my monitor and i am not forcing my monitor to a specific white point that i do not need by selecting 6500k...Also i do not edit photos or websites on my PC...So i do not need a specific white point that i need to calibrate too like if i was editing photos in the evening it would be recommend to calibrate to 5000k and not 6500k...IE there is no right or wrong white point to calibrate too it depends on your needs...6500k is considered normal for most web content etc.

Also you can't physically alter the white point of a led LCD monitor especially on a Qnix . It is what it is. If you don't have a higher end unit like the NEC's, all you do by specifying anything other than Native is alter the LUT in the graphic card...you're simply making an 8=bit LUT* to be loaded on the graphic card to apply this correction, not a physical alteration of the display!..Buys you nothing...So use Native and let the ICC profile "compensate" in ICC aware applications.....Higher bit, high end displays are available that do this internally in the panel. Still not a physical adjustment but since its high bit, less (or no) banding as a result of the adjustment.

If you have anything but such a high end display, select Native White Point....Thats my take on it and a native calibration looks just perfect on my panel...However higher end units allow high bit LUTs internally inside the display. So setting a desired WP can be accomplished without degradation.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> Im using AMD 7970 GPU with Catalyst v13.12 drivers. Heres a picture of the config


Thanks for the screen shot however i can not tell from that picture if your ram is being up clocked on the desktop?..Do you know if your memory clock on the graphic card down is clocking /idle while on the desktop?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I hate calibrating to 6500k!.. Calibrating to a native white point looks great on my monitor also 6500k is way to cool for me with a blue/green tint....Native looks perfect on my monitor and i am not forcing my monitor to a specific white point that i do not need by selecting 6500k...Also i do not edit photos or websites on my PC...So i do not need a specific white point that i need to calibrate too like if i was editing photos in the evening it would be recommend to calibrate to 5000k...IE there is no right or wrong white point to calibrate too it depends on your needs... 6500k is considered normal for most web content etc.


There should be an almost invisible difference if the Spyder is truly calibrating the display to 6500K. +-50K is within undetectable range, anyways. All my displays are calibrated to 6500K and the whites are closer than ever. I relax almost the same degree on all the monitors that I use because white is white (6500K). sRGB content is produced at 6500K so it does have a significance, it's a reference color temperature. However, I would agree on that it's too blue for some people who would get eyestrain / headaches, but in your case 6550K is more bluish than 6500K (blue is warm, yellow / red is cool in color temperature science).
Quote:


> You can't physically alter the white point of a led LCD monitor especially on a Qnix . It is what it is. If you don't have a higher end unit like the NEC's, all you do by specifying anything other than Native is alter the LUT in the graphic card...you're simply making an 8=bit LUT* to be loaded on the graphic card to apply this correction, not a physical alteration of the display!..Buys you nothing. So use Native and let the ICC profile "compensate" in ICC aware applications.....Higher bit, high end displays are available that do this internally in the panel. Still not a physical adjustment but since its high bit, less (or no) banding as a result of the adjustment.


Yes, you ~can. You do so by requesting another balance of R,G,B that is not 255,255,255. And yes, even high-end NECs use LUTs inside the monitor, and request a different color out of a wider palette (14-bit, let's say). This gives you 4 bits of freedom for 10-bit monitors, meaning you can round up / down to a shade at most 1/16 away from an integer.

For any display which has to be 6500K, even with an internal LUT, the extra red / green / blue which adds to / subtracts from the whitepoint has to be reduced, leading to lower white luminance and a reduced contrast ratio. Thing of the extra as useless extra, which adds to the luminance of white but shouldn't have been there in the first place. It's why I tend to appreciate contrast ratio measurements with an accurate whitepoint, and not the native which is often off on most monitors (we are lucky with the Qnix).

AMD GPUs have 10-bit LUTs to eliminate banding on 8-bit displays via dithering, try the option "LUT Bit Depth" inside Color Sustainer and see what I mean: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test

In 8-bit LUT Bit Depth mode, I truncate the extra bits (2 bits) in order to simulate how an 8-bit LUT would produce banding. Nvidia cards have 8-bit LUTs.

Banding is produced in all cases where there is remapping of color values without a high-enough bit depth, whitepoint or not.
Quote:


> If you have anything but such a high end display, select Native White Point....Thats my take on it and a native calibration looks just perfect on my panel...However higher end units allow high bit LUTs internally inside the display. So setting a desired WP can be accomplished without degradation.


I will make sure if there are any visible differences by calibrating my Qnix at native whitepoint vs. 6500K, then post the results, done!


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks for the screen shot however i can not tell from that picture if your ram is being up clocked on the desktop?..Do you know if your memory clock on the graphic card down is clocking /idle while on the desktop?


Its always at 5500 according to that ASUS GPU app, is there a way i can check?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> (blue is warm, yellow / red is cool in color temperature science).


You said that backwards. Red is warmer, blue is cooler.

I've got no idea why higher temps are considered cooler colors though.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You said that backwards. Red is warmer, blue is cooler.
> 
> I've got no idea why higher temps are considered cooler colors though.


No. Blue is warm (6500K - 12000K), and red / yellow is cool (2700K - 6000K). For blackbody temperatures.

Example is a flame. Blue where it's hottest. Red / yellow where it's coolest.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No. Blue is warm (6500K - 12000K), and red / yellow is cool (2700K - 6000K). For blackbody temperatures.
> 
> Example is a flame. Blue where it's hottest. Red / yellow where it's coolest.


But in color temperature science (your words), like in lighting and monitors, blue is cooler and red is warmer. Blackbody temperature and color temperature are opposite. Which is why I said I don't know why it's backwards. 6550K is bluer than 6500K, that's true, but the resulting light is considered cooler not warmer.

That's why LED bulbs are said to give off a colder light (bluer) than the warmer (redder) incandescent bulbs.
Quote:


> Color temperatures over 5,000K are called cool colors (bluish white), while lower color temperatures (2,700-3,000 K) are called warm colors (yellowish white through red).[1] This relation, however, is a psychological one in contrast to the physical relation implied by Wien's displacement law, according to which the spectral peak is shifted towards shorter wavelengths (resulting in a more blueish white) for higher temperatures.


en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature
Quote:


> when it comes to light quality, LEDs still have a long way to go to emulate the warmth provided by the good old incandescent bulb, compared to which, they are cold.


http://www.smartplanet.com/blog/intelligent-energy/the-hot-and-cold-of-led-lighting/


----------



## James Freeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I made the seller pay back the postage. It's false advertising, you shouldn't be paying postage back for it, simple as. Also, it's not only when you experience problems, that you can really rate a seller. If everything goes to plan, there's good things to say in the speed and quality of the item, but if it were to break, that's when you analyse the good from the bad


FedEx wants almost 400$ for return shipping (more than what the product actually costs).
As you can understand, the monitor itself cost less than/around 100$ but the fast shipment costs most of the price.

I have reverted the shipment back to the sender without even receiving the package (I called FedEx).
They say that if the seller does not agree to pay for return shipment they will destroy the package.

If the seller will not settle this nicely I will activate Ebay Buyer Protection for false advertisement (non overclockable, and not flicker free (its 160Hz PWM)).
Hope I'll get my money back without extra complications or time.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> But in color temperature science (your words), like in lighting and monitors, blue is cooler and red is warmer. Blackbody temperature and color temperature are opposite. *Which is why I said I don't know why it's backwards.* 6550K is bluer than 6500K, that's true, but the resulting light is considered cooler not warmer.
> 
> That's why LED bulbs are said to give off a colder light (bluer) than the warmer (redder) incandescent bulbs.
> en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature
> http://www.smartplanet.com/blog/intelligent-energy/the-hot-and-cold-of-led-lighting/


What's so hard? You're saying what I am saying. I don't know why it's backwards either.

Blue has a higher temperature, red has a lower temperature. That's when dealing with blackbody temperature, aka color temperature science, for monitors and lighting, as measured by a colorimeter / spectrometer. On the other hand, the usual terms we use are opposite.

I don't know why we're discussing this? It's not something important. Move on.


----------



## snapdragon

Has anyone used the Square Trade Warranty? See a lot of negative feedback on ebay.
Am planning to get one with the monitor


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> Its always at 5500 according to that ASUS GPU app, is there a way i can check?


Hi mate yes you can check your GPU memory clock in many ways!...I use a program HWiNFO which is a great free bit of software that provides many sensor values...As in the screen shot below i have highlighted my current GPU memory clock...Below is a link to HWiNFO

http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Has anyone used the Square Trade Warranty? See a lot of negative feedback on ebay.
> Am planning to get one with the monitor


I have a Square Trade Warranty on my Qinx from the Square Trade UK branch!....From what i have heard is well worth having one!


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I have a Square Trade Warranty on my Qinx from the Square Trade UK branch!....From what i have heard is well worth having one!


Thanks. Will get one. The negative reviews scare me


----------



## ammarisawake

Hey guys quick question just test my qnix on boot I get cycle of flashing screen red white green blue. How do I exit this cycle


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammarisawake*
> 
> Hey guys quick question just test my qnix on boot I get cycle of flashing screen red white green blue. How do I exit this cycle


This means the monitor isn't getting a signal from the computer. Check your cable, mine are picky about the connection at the monitor.


----------



## ammarisawake

Thanks switched cable and it works.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No. Blue is warm (6500K - 12000K), and red / yellow is cool (2700K - 6000K). For blackbody temperatures.
> 
> Example is a flame. Blue where it's hottest. Red / yellow where it's coolest.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> But in color temperature science (your words), like in lighting and monitors, blue is cooler and red is warmer. Blackbody temperature and color temperature are opposite. Which is why I said I don't know why it's backwards. 6550K is bluer than 6500K, that's true, but the resulting light is considered cooler not warmer.
> 
> That's why LED bulbs are said to give off a colder light (bluer) than the warmer (redder) incandescent bulbs.
> en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature
> http://www.smartplanet.com/blog/intelligent-energy/the-hot-and-cold-of-led-lighting/


I agree - blue is "cool" or "cold" and red is "warm".
Sure in science it isn't the case - but if you look at your TV or monitor and you set it to "cool" or "cold" the blue gets bumped up whilst the red gets decreased
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James Freeman*
> 
> FedEx wants almost 400$ for return shipping (more than what the product actually costs).
> As you can understand, the monitor itself cost less than/around 100$ but the fast shipment costs most of the price.
> 
> I have reverted the shipment back to the sender without even receiving the package (I called FedEx).
> They say that if the seller does not agree to pay for return shipment they will destroy the package.
> 
> If the seller will not settle this nicely I will activate Ebay Buyer Protection for false advertisement (non overclockable, and not flicker free (its 160Hz PWM)).
> Hope I'll get my money back without extra complications or time.


nah that's mental - ebay should have you covered


----------



## Tmplt

It's incredible how the BLB is completely terminated after bashing the inner frame with a hammer in the basement. Thanks for the help given!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Has anyone used the Square Trade Warranty? See a lot of negative feedback on ebay.
> Am planning to get one with the monitor
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I have a Square Trade Warranty on my Qinx from the Square Trade UK branch!....From what i have heard is well worth having one!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Thanks. Will get one. The negative reviews scare me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Here's my take on warranties after following this thread for several months and also seeing the same problems initially pop up with the new "HOT" thing, genuine 4K for $600-$700 *[HERE]* ... The main problem is getting a Korean re-seller to pay for return shipping if your not happy with your monitor, or even if it doesn't meet initial advertised specs. Return shipping can cost almost as much as 1/2 of the original price









I got lucky and bought a near perfect NiB from a private "3rd Party" through Ebay knowing I'd be covered "initially" by EBay's buyer protection. You could look at purchases from Newegg/NCIX/Amazon ... etc. in the same way, you have built in protections from having to expensively ship the product back to the original re-seller in Korea if your not happy.

In Lieu of not being able to do the above, I think it is a "Wise" decision to buy a Square Trade warranty!

1) For initial quality protection ...
2) For failures that can occur 0-36mos down the road.

We are running (overclocking) these monitors out of spec in legalese. This may or may not effect reliability down the road, and can they prove it? Probably not, much like back in the day when we OC'd our Opterons/8800's








But even so, if my monitor fails on me down the road, I'm out of luck, the shipping costs alone aren't worth it. And I personally contacted QNIX about opening a service center in NAmerica in the future? ... well lets say that didn't get very far









So in retrospect I kinda wish I had a square trade warranty. But in reality 1-2 years from now I don't see a replacement even being available for appx $300, but some cash from square trade is better than none. QNIX is not making these single-input PLS panels any more, they are investing heavily in the "True10" see comments and "Snapdragon's" video bottom of my post *[HERE]* Even if they do bring them back in the future, I see them going the way of the Catleap "2B" and the price will double!

So get'em while they're HOT and lets hope they last for years to come screaming along @120Hz


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi mate yes you can check your GPU memory clock in many ways!...I use a program HWiNFO which is a great free bit of software that provides many sensor values...As in the screen shot below i have highlighted my current GPU memory clock...Below is a link to HWiNFO
> 
> http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php


Heres it on Idle


----------



## asuka10456

Are most of these monitors still overclockable? I have 2 and now my brother wants to get one. The Qnix and X-Star still the best options?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> Are most of these monitors still overclockable? I have 2 and now my brother wants to get one. The Qnix and X-Star still the best options?


As long as you get the single input(DL-DVI) version, you have a really good chance of it overclocking.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> Heres it on Idle


Thanks for the screen shot McLaren!... And yes it confirms what i thought as your memory is also not down clocking...In fact i do not believe that we will find one AMD card that is capable of down clocking its memory running at 120hz!...Which is why i advise making presets for your custom refresh rates via CCC and assign keystrokes for these presets


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks for the screen shot McLaren!... And yes it confirms what i thought as your memory is also not down clocking...In fact i do not believe that we will find one AMD card that is capable of down clocking running at 120hz!...Which is why i advise making presets for your custom refresh rates via CCC and assign keystrokes for these presets


Sorry to ask a stupid questions, what are the presets for? Dont we want the monitor to run 120Hz most times?
How did you make presets for CCC?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> Sorry to ask a stupid questions, what are the presets for? Dont we want the monitor to run 120Hz most times?
> How did you make presets for CCC?


A few pages back i explained that i was seeing elevated Wattage being draw from my wall socket via my wattage meter which is connected to my PC PSU...At 60hz my PC is drawing around 99 watts...At 120hz my pc is drawing 160-170 watts sitting on the desktop doing nothing!...Also my GPU temp is elevated by 10c running at 120hz....This of coarse is because of the higher current being drawn by the GPU at 120hz!...At first i thought this extra power was being drawn just to ramp up the pixel clock which in my case is 459mhz at 120hz,

However i was finding this hard to believe that it would draw an extra 60-70 watts just to ramp up the pixel clock!..So i started to look closer into what was going on using HWiNFO.. and what i found was the memory clock is unable to downclock at 120hz using such a low pixel clock!.. and even if its raised it to a point where as you can not hit 120hz any more because you have moved to far above the 450mhz pixel limit it still is not able to down clock!...Nvidia cards on the other hand seem to be capable of down clocking there memory using a sightly raise pixel clock which is still close enough to the pixel clock limit of 450mhz and hit 120hz and be able to down clock its memory on the desktop at a lower pixel clock than any AMD card can!

So on the desktop and idle with an AMD card as in yours and mine the memory can not down clock which means it is drawing as much wattage as if it was running flat out gaming!...In my case this 4gb of DDR 5 Ram running flat out on the desktop at 1350mhz and drawing an extra 60watts of power which is also adding 10c to my cards idle temp!...None of this will hurt / damage your card in any way at all...or even make it run any hotter when gaming because it cant go any faster than it is at idle on the desktop!...However your electricity bill will go up and if you care about that then i would advise using CCC and making some presets for your custom resolutions as i have done in my picture below...This will enable you at the touch of a keystroke to flick over to 60hz or even 96hz or even 110hz on the desktop which will enable your GPU memory clock to down clock!...Once you want to game again just hit your 120hz preset keystroke and off you go!


----------



## HB85

Hi guys, when I overclock my QNIX monitor to 95Hz runs great except when I play videos there is no video its just a black screen but I hear audio - how do I fix this? I have a AMD graphics card thanks


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HB85*
> 
> Hi guys, when I overclock my QNIX monitor to 95Hz runs great except when I play videos there is no video its just a black screen but I hear audio - how do I fix this? I have a AMD graphics card thanks


Disable hardware acceleration the AMD patch breaks HDCP support and video acceleration...but most video playback issues have workarounds...Disable hardware acceleration in the Flash Player settings (right-click on any Flash video and click "Settings...").


----------



## HB85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Disable hardware acceleration the AMD patch breaks HDCP support and video acceleration...but most video playback issues have workarounds...Disable hardware acceleration in the Flash Player settings (right-click on any Flash video and click "Settings...").


Thanks it worked for youtube how do I fix playing video files on my pc? what video player do you recommend?


----------



## HB85

Nevermind I fixed it by disabling hardware acceleration in my media player thanks alot!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HB85*
> 
> Nevermind I fixed it by disabling hardware acceleration in my media player thanks alot!


This helped me.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/271264-chrome-gpu-hardware-acceleration-turn-off.html


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Will any VESA mount work with these monitors?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys need a little help here....I was looking at either getting a qnix/xstar monitor and came across this....What i would like to know,is it at all possible to overclock this particular monitor....?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys need a little help here....I was looking at either getting a qnix/xstar monitor and came across this....What i would like to know,is it at all possible to overclock this particular monitor....?


Both are the exact same panel and most (with DVI only input) OC to 96-120Hz.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Ohhhhh,i forgot to post a link to the monitor i was talking about.....

here goes....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-WASABI-MANGO-WFHD295-29-2560x1080-AH-IPS-LED-21-9-DVI-D-Computer-Monitor-/141238968472

Any help would be nice,just wanted to know if it's possible to overclock,if not then i will just stick to getting a qnix or xstar....


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Ohhhhh,i forgot to post a link to the monitor i was talking about.....
> 
> here goes....
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-WASABI-MANGO-WFHD295-29-2560x1080-AH-IPS-LED-21-9-DVI-D-Computer-Monitor-/141238968472
> 
> Any help would be nice,just wanted to know if it's possible to overclock,if not then i will just stick to getting a qnix or xstar....


I wish that one OC'd i love that aspect ratio, but I have not seen any 21:9 monitors OC. Hmm, but the WASABI MANGO has only a sinlge DVI-D input, so maybe. Im very interested now!!!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> I wish that one OC'd i love that aspect ratio, but I have not seen any 21:9 monitors OC. Hmm, but the WASABI MANGO has only a sinlge DVI-D input, so maybe. Im very interested now!!!


I do love the 2560x1440's,but as soon as i saw this i wanted it,can't seem to find any reviews or better yet users comments on it....I was hoping because they some what use the same panels that they would be able to overclock,also is this a trusted brand....?


----------



## fredocini

Alright so I FINALLY got a response back from kcci (seller I made my perfect pixel purchase from) and this is what they said:
Quote:


> Hi,
> 
> We check dead pixel, serious light bleeding before shipping.
> Delivery is delayed due to inspection work. We will ship to 21-Apr.
> 
> We have one more check.
> If you want, we will declare the package as a "gift", and lower value of the actual price to $100.
> However, we are not sure that if the custom tax would be charged, or not.
> You will responsible for any import duties, taxes and charges if occur.
> 
> We'll waiting for your reply.
> Thank you


Do you guys think this is a "too good to be true" case? Or should I just roll with it. I'm not familiar with import duties, taxes charges or what not and not too sure if they are actually going to make the official price go down to $100 or take the $100 off. Either way I am rather impressed. I just hope its an actual perfect pixel screen that comes my way though...


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Alright so I FINALLY got a response back from kcci (seller I made my perfect pixel purchase from) and this is what they said:
> Do you guys think this is a "too good to be true" case? Or should I just roll with it. I'm not familiar with import duties, taxes charges or what not and not too sure if they are actually going to make the official price go down to $100 or take the $100 off. Either way I am rather impressed. I just hope its an actual perfect pixel screen that comes my way though...


I got a response back as well from kcci-au
Quote:


> Sorry for the trouble.
> The manufacturer said this monitor "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II QHD PLS" has problem.
> Subsidiary of Monitor is monitor panel out of stock.
> Currently being manufactured.that's why we couldn't send it to you.
> All sellers that sales this monitor has the same problem.
> 
> So, We will ship on 21 Apr.
> Once again we're really sorry for that.
> Thank you
> 
> - kcci-au


I also got a "pixel perfect" panel but they only regard anything with more than 5 dead pixels to be eligible for a refund or return.

Eh, even if it has a couple i doubt i'll notice it tbh.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

@ Sgt Bilko....Do you already own a 1440p....If so who did you buy it from on Ebay,and how long did it take to get to aus....?

EDIT.....Also have my eye on this monitor,would it be a good choice....
Anyone case to chime in....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-Samsung-PLS-WQHD-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121089977041?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c31866ad1


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> @ Sgt Bilko....Do you already own a 1440p....If so who did you buy it from on Ebay,and how long did it take to get to aus....?


Don't own one yet, supposed to be shipping out today.

This is the one i got: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121294620917?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Paid on the 9th April and sent a few messages to them in between, got a reply today from one a i sent on the 18th saying what i quoted above.

Most people have had a good experiance with them, mine has been a little rocky so far


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I got a response back as well from kcci-au
> I also got a "pixel perfect" panel but they only regard anything with more than 5 dead pixels to be eligible for a refund or return.
> 
> Eh, even if it has a couple i doubt i'll notice it tbh.


Same here, especially with such a high resolution and good price I don't see any reason to complain (unless theres more than 5 dead pixels lol). We'll see though, I'll post some pics when it arrives. I'm using my monitor mostly for gaming but also for "entry level" photo and video editing.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Same here, especially with such a high resolution and good price I don't see any reason to complain (unless theres more than 5 dead pixels lol). We'll see though, I'll post some pics when it arrives. I'm using my monitor mostly for gaming but also for "entry level" photo and video editing.


I'm a gamer so i really doubt i'll notice it at all, I'll still continue to watch movies on my 24" 1080p Asus panel and i hate the thought of stretching it out on the 1440p panel


----------



## hutt132

I currently have had my QX2710 for many months now, and I love it. I've been wanting to get two more for a triple monitor setup. My only concern is the connectivity.

I have an ASUS GTX 670. As far as I know, the two DVI ports are dual-link, so I should be able to hook up two montiors and overclock fine. But for the third monitor, if I got a displayport to DVI adapter, would I be able to connect that to one of the monitor and overclock it?


----------



## moonkikang

Should work...

One of our customers bought 3 monitors, but had an issue getting it to work (he was trying to set-up nVidia surround). Third monitor required the use of an active DVI adapter to get it to function properly.

Given, the three monitors functioned fine separately at QHD resolutions (using dport), but just wouldn't combine properly for nVidia Surround until an active DVI adapter was used...


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I'm a gamer so i really doubt i'll notice it at all, I'll still continue to watch movies on my 24" 1080p Asus panel and i hate the thought of stretching it out on the 1440p panel


What do you mean by it will "stretch it out" ?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> What do you mean by it will "stretch it out" ?


Same thing as when you watch a 720p video on a 1080p screen, it stretches it as opposed to a 1080p video on a 1080p screen.

Kinda get what i mean?


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Same thing as when you watch a 720p video on a 1080p screen, it stretches it as opposed to a 1080p video on a 1080p screen.
> 
> Kinda get what i mean?


Scaling? Gotcha









NCX said Blu-Ray's look great and SD looks noticeably worse on a 1440p compared to a 1080. So as long as viewing 1080p material I can't see it being an issue







I am however still a bit on the fence until i actually see it myself, I'm extremely pedantic when it comes to picture/color quality


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> Scaling? Gotcha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NCX said Blu-Ray's look great and SD looks noticeably worse on a 1440p compared to a 1080. So as long as viewing 1080p material I can't see it being an issue


Agreed, unfortunately i own quite a few 720p versions of movies and TV shows and such so they won't be shown on the Qnix









But going one step down in viewing quality wouldn't be an issue i imagine.....must be hard for those with 4k panels though


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I currently have had my QX2710 for many months now, and I love it. I've been wanting to get two more for a triple monitor setup. My only concern is the connectivity.
> 
> I have an ASUS GTX 670. As far as I know, the two DVI ports are dual-link, so I should be able to hook up two montiors and overclock fine. But for the third monitor, if I got a displayport to DVI adapter, would I be able to connect that to one of the monitor and overclock it?


As far as the pixel clock limit of such an adapter goes. 300MHz tends to be the limit for the higher-end and you can hit ~80Hz with that. Some adapters might not help you overclock much at all.


----------



## Johnny Rook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Alright so I FINALLY got a response back from kcci (seller I made my perfect pixel purchase from) and this is what they said:
> Do you guys think this is a "too good to be true" case? Or should I just roll with it. I'm not familiar with import duties, taxes charges or what not and not too sure if they are actually going to make the official price go down to $100 or take the $100 off. Either way I am rather impressed. I just hope its an actual perfect pixel screen that comes my way though...


What the seller meant is that he will report the price as being $100 in the shipping form, not that you'll pay less. He does that so you pay less taxes. However, writing a low price down in a paper may not be enough for customs. They believe the price or not. So, maybe you should ask for the seller to put an invoice copy of $100 outside the package, next to the shipping form, so the customs can check the price and collect the taxes. The problem lies when the customs don't believe the price and ask for the PayPal receipt. Then you have to show them the real price.


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Agreed, unfortunately i own quite a few 720p versions of movies and TV shows and such so they won't be shown on the Qnix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But going one step down in viewing quality wouldn't be an issue i imagine.....must be hard for those with 4k panels though


Hehe, I totally understand. I most likely wouldn't bother either. In my opinion it is very important to view films as they were intended by the director. That also includes colors! I always condone everyone to calibrate their monitors to the D65 standard. Now that I don't own a colorimeter I'll have to rely on others' calibrations









I'm wondering how it is with 4k's too







Since it's a quadruplent of 720p the scaling should still be somewhat "natural". Not 100% sure though.


----------



## amlett

Hi everyone.

I'm thinking about getting a new monitor. Not sure about what to get, but these Korean PLS monitors are candidates. Any tip I must know about which to get?

Are all of them overclockeable? I mean, multiple imputs too, or just DVI ones?

Is there another option out there more interesting right now? I've been out of monitor stuff for some time.

Thanks!


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amlett*
> 
> Hi everyone.
> 
> I'm thinking about getting a new monitor. Not sure about what to get, but these Korean PLS monitors are candidates. Any tip I must know about which to get?
> 
> Are all of them overclockeable? I mean, multiple imputs too, or just DVI ones?


The Qnix QX2710 or X-Star DP2710 (same monitor) are the ones you should be looking at with *single DVI input*. Thats the one that overclocks, avoid any other. As far as I know of the two, the Qnix is the more popular one but it's the same panel so get whichever is cheaper


----------



## amlett

Thanks!

I remembered something about that, but wasn't sure.


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Thanks!
> 
> I remembered something about that, but wasn't sure.


Np







The multi-input ones are easy to spot as they include *Multi, True 10 or DPmulti* in the title. So just avoid them!


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> As far as the pixel clock limit of such an adapter goes. 300MHz tends to be the limit for the higher-end and you can hit ~80Hz with that. Some adapters might not help you overclock much at all.


But will the monitor work with a displayport to DVI adapter, and will it overclock just as good as a regular DVI port?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> But will the monitor work with a displayport to DVI adapter, and will it overclock just as good as a regular DVI port?


I answered that. It won't overclock as well. It might not overclock at all. Depends on the adapter. Also, no idea how passive adapters behave.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Rook*
> 
> What the seller meant is that he will report the price as being $100 in the shipping form, not that you'll pay less. He does that so you pay less taxes. However, writing a low price down in a paper may not be enough for customs. They believe the price or not. So, maybe you should ask for the seller to put an invoice copy of $100 outside the package, next to the shipping form, so the customs can check the price and collect the taxes. The problem lies when the customs don't believe the price and ask for the PayPal receipt. Then you have to show them the real price.


Ahhh I see. This makes a lot more sense&#8230; Thanks for clarifying that. I just wished that it wouldn't take them 4 days just to reply back to my message lol and they still haven't shipped yet


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I answered that. It won't overclock as well. It might not overclock at all. Depends on the adapter. Also, no idea how passive adapters behave.


Do you know of any adapters that will allow around a 460 pixel clock? That's the pixel clock of my current monitor OCed to 120Hz.

I read that even though this adapter says it has a 330 pixel clock limit, it can reach about 400: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00856WJH8/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00856WJH8&linkCode=as2&tag=monitortests-20


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> @ Sgt Bilko....Do you already own a 1440p....If so who did you buy it from on Ebay,and how long did it take to get to aus....?
> 
> EDIT.....Also have my eye on this monitor,would it be a good choice....
> Anyone case to chime in....
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-Samsung-PLS-WQHD-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121089977041?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c31866ad1


I would avoid tempered glass. Best PQ would be glossy (if in a light controlled room), then matte, then tempered glass as least PQ.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> EDIT.....Also have my eye on this monitor,would it be a good choice....
> Anyone case to chime in....
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-Samsung-PLS-WQHD-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121089977041?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c31866ad1
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> I would avoid tempered glass. Best PQ would be glossy (if in a light controlled room), then matte, then tempered glass as least PQ.
Click to expand...

I agree with Swolern ... but if your handy with tools, it's not hard to remove the tempered glass plate. Tempered glass reacts a lot like a glossy panel in brightly lit rooms where reflections could be a problem. I'm a glossy fan and tempered glass is NO substitute for a true glossy panel regarding PQ. Korean re-sellers have been guilty of trying to pass off tempered glass panels as glossy panels, while researching this months ago I ran across "Stige" and LunaP" discussing this (in this thread/Dec) and how they eventually removed the tempered glass plate ... (also in the OP)

*[START HERE*] and follow their discussion for the next several pages (weeks), some good insight there! ... Hope this helps


----------



## BigTakeover

Quick question for folks who have disassembled their Qnix to fix the backlight;

Does this item need to come off? Not the PCB itself, just the cover (which is taken off in the capture). With it on, it covers the holes on one side. Taking it off however seems very dodgy. The panel would need to be flipped with just the PCB hanging from the ribbon cables.



It was super-easy getting to this part, but everything I've seen or read just kind of glosses over the monument of truth, which is taking the frame off. It's just not clear to me how the frame is supposed to be popped off. The prying the frame from the tabs bit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. This thread is such a great resource, so thank you for all the great info you've already provided.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I agree with Swolern ... but if your handy with tools, it's not hard to remove the tempered glass plate. Tempered glass reacts a lot like a glossy panel in brightly lit rooms where reflections could be a problem. I'm a glossy fan and tempered glass is NO substitute for a true glossy panel regarding PQ. Korean re-sellers have been guilty of trying to pass off tempered glass panels as glossy panels, while researching this months ago I ran across "Stige" and LunaP" discussing this (in this thread/Dec) and how they eventually removed the tempered glass plate ... (also in the OP)
> 
> *[START HERE*] and follow their discussion for the next several pages (weeks), some good insight there! ... Hope this helps


Unfortunately, it's irrelevant if you have the skills to take off the panel - it's a matte panel underneath, so you will find it pointless to go tempered glass. True glossy panels are getting very rare and hard to find.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigTakeover*
> 
> Quick question for folks who have disassembled their Qnix to fix the backlight;
> 
> Does this item need to come off? Not the PCB itself, just the cover (which is taken off in the capture). With it on, it covers the holes on one side. Taking it off however seems very dodgy. The panel would need to be flipped with just the PCB hanging from the ribbon cables.
> 
> 
> 
> It was super-easy getting to this part, but everything I've seen or read just kind of glosses over the monument of truth, which is taking the frame off. It's just not clear to me how the frame is supposed to be popped off. The prying the frame from the tabs bit.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. This thread is such a great resource, so thank you for all the great info you've already provided.


Yes i removed that cover as you can see in the picture below where i am removing the rails!...You do not need to remove the PCB broad under the cover!...As for popping the frame off the tabs that is exactly what you do!... However remove the frame with the screen upright facing you and becarful not to upset or move the diffuser layers that are now free to move around once the frame has been removed!..In the link below you will find a few posts of mine explaining how to remove and straighten the frame and fix your BLB...

Oh and BTW you do not need tape!.. The OP is well out of date and tape can put more pressure on panel inside the frame in certain places creating BLB!..Straightening the frame alone will cure BLB 100%

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/12970


----------



## snapdragon

Anyone facing shipping issues. Ordered on 17th from storewithstory and am yet to get a shipping label/tracking.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Anyone facing shipping issues. Ordered on 17th from storewithstory and am yet to get a shipping label/tracking.


They are probably out of stock and are waiting for another shipment.


----------



## hutt132

I have a GTX 670 which has DVI-D, DVI-I, HDMI, and Displayport. I have one QX2710 monitor OCed to 120Hz, and I want to buy two more and OC them too. I believe both DVI ports are dual-link, so that shouldn't be a problem for overclocking. But for the third monitor, would I be able to plug it into the HDMI port with an adapter and OC it to 120Hz (given that the monitor can achieve 120Hz)? I don't want to get a displayport adapter that has a high pixel clock because they are expensive, and I can't find any that claim to have a high enough pixel clock to reach 120Hz. My current monitor has a pixel clock of 459.54MHz at 120Hz.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I have a GTX 670 which has DVI-D, DVI-I, HDMI, and Displayport. I have one QX2710 monitor OCed to 120Hz, and I want to buy two more and OC them too. I believe both DVI ports are dual-link, so that shouldn't be a problem for overclocking. But for the third monitor, would I be able to plug it into the HDMI port with an adapter and OC it to 120Hz (given that the monitor can achieve 120Hz)? I don't want to get a displayport adapter that has a high pixel clock because they are expensive, and I can't find any that claim to have a high enough pixel clock to reach 120Hz. My current monitor has a pixel clock of 459.54MHz at 120Hz.


It won't work as a conversion from HDMI - >DVI. HDMI and DL-DVI are not compatible with each other. If you only have one card, then your only choice is, unfortunately, the expensive DP->DL-DVI adapter.


----------



## latexyankee

Checking in..

Received a qnix today and its not too bad. A dead pixel or 2 which I could care less about, but had some major BLB. I managed to fix 80% with tape. The frame was already pretty damn straight so I'm not sure how to alleviate the one big spot left in the lower right hand corner.

Haven't calibrated yet but colors are nice. Tried a few games and there is definitely some ghosting/motion blur happening at 110hz. I'm hoping I'll get used to it for a bit coming from several Asus gaming monitors. I'ts not crazy bad but it is noticeable after using 120-144hz on a TN.

Overall it's ok, I didn't expect much and this is not my first rodeo with 1440p. I just hope I can get over the blur.


----------



## boogerlad

My X-Star dp2710led came in today from dream-seller. No dead pixels. I can only get upto 100hz. Any ideas on how to reach the coveted 120hz?


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boogerlad*
> 
> My X-Star dp2710led came in today from dream-seller. No dead pixels. I can only get upto 100hz. Any ideas on how to reach the coveted 120hz?


Try Lawsons config, it worked for me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> HI bluedevil you are more than welcome to use my 120hz optimized timings in the picture below that will bring your pixel clock down 459mhz which is only 9mhz above the 450mhz pixel clock limit!...These timings seem to work for most people if indeed there monitors can achieve 120hz...Also i have linked my 120hz ICC profile below!
> 
> 
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## boogerlad

With that config, I've hit 110hz! So close to the goal.


----------



## Phaedrus2129

Mine arrived at work. Looking forward to getting it set up tomorrow night.


----------



## MelonSplitter

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Checking in..
> 
> Received a qnix today and its not too bad. A dead pixel or 2 which I could care less about, but had some major BLB. I managed to fix 80% with tape. The frame was already pretty damn straight so I'm not sure how to alleviate the one big spot left in the lower right hand corner.
> 
> Haven't calibrated yet but colors are nice. Tried a few games and there is definitely some ghosting/motion blur happening at 110hz. I'm hoping I'll get used to it for a bit coming from several Asus gaming monitors. I'ts not crazy bad but it is noticeable after using 120-144hz on a TN.
> 
> Overall it's ok, I didn't expect much and this is not my first rodeo with 1440p. I just hope I can get over the blur.


Who did you buy your monitor from?


----------



## Phaedrus2129

Just got mine today. Purchased from Amazon. No dead pixels. Slight bleed in the lower left corner, but for what I paid I honestly don't care. This resolution is amazing, There are no pixels.









The stand sucks. I think that has been definitively established.


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> Try Lawsons config, it worked for me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I have a ColorMunki Display and it made my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Matte monitor look much better at 120Hz. The only negative thing about it is that the colors look ever so slightly washed out. I calibrated with the brightness at 22 clicks from the lowest setting, monitor tilted back, and at night with the lights off.
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Matte; 22 click brightness
> 120Hz: http://www.mediafire.com/?1kdh8hztdk49te9
> 96Hz: http://www.mediafire.com/?ba914rm5z52l9wa
> 60Hz: http://www.mediafire.com/?7w3e2lpgr5zn4wx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> Here are my timing, no artifacts. I'm using this cable: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-24AWG-Dual-DVI-D-Cable/dp/B003L11FIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377385659&sr=8-1&keywords=24awg+dvi-d
> 
> 
> Also, does this monitor work with the GeForce 327.23 driver with the NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher?


These timings work great for me.


----------



## MikeHawk

My update:

Dream-Seller Matte X-Star, $289.00 US

4-15 Tuesday afternoon local time, ordered.
4-16 Wednesday, had tracking.
4-21 Monday, delivered.

One stuck pixel on black/dark backgrounds in the lower left, 40mm from the bottom.
One stuck pixel on green/dark backgrounds lower left, like 3mm from the edge.

While I'm a self professed anal OCD bastard, and I'd rather not have had a panel with any dead pixels, these dead pixels aren't bothering me at all.
1) They aren't in my main viewing area.
2) They aren't stuck bright, just gray/dead.
3) They practically blend invisible into the background once I'm at normal viewing distance from the screen.
4) After time will probably be confused with all the other specs of dust on my monitor









BLB is pretty uniform. Nothing that is right now causing me to want to pull apart this monitor. Granted I've already destroyed 1 of these monitors so I'm feeling very very reserved about even looking cross eyed at my new baby lol.

Will work on getting the colors to my liking and see if I can at least hit 96hz.

Still need to take the bezel off to paint it flat black and remove the plastic stub. I'll be praying to your deity of choice that I don't f it up this time.


----------



## MikeHawk

Lordy I'm getting old. I'm having to control-mouse-scroll-wheel all my websites now


----------



## freenor

Hello everybody

the display of my qnix has this default




Did someone got the same problem ?

I test with a new dvi cable, power supply and graphic card, same result


----------



## boogerlad

While changing the monitor's power source to use a molex instead of the brick, I've fed the monitor 5 volts for a couple minutes by accident and noticed something. The brightness is lowered significantly, but still functional. This would be a good method to lower the brightness manually instead of using the button and inducing pwm headaches.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boogerlad*
> 
> While changing the monitor's power source to use a molex instead of the brick, I've fed the monitor 5 volts for a couple minutes by accident and noticed something. The brightness is lowered significantly, but still functional. This would be a good method to lower the brightness manually instead of using the button and inducing pwm headaches.


That is if they use PWM. Most seem not to, but mine does. I do not detect any flicker though, no headaches, and no PWM artifacts that I can see (multiple edges).

It's also very interesting that it worked at that. Can you describe what you did exactly? Thanks.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Ohhhhh,i forgot to post a link to the monitor i was talking about.....
> 
> here goes....
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-WASABI-MANGO-WFHD295-29-2560x1080-AH-IPS-LED-21-9-DVI-D-Computer-Monitor-/141238968472
> 
> Any help would be nice,just wanted to know if it's possible to overclock,if not then i will just stick to getting a qnix or xstar....


That monitor is a thing of great beauty. If I didn't already have a Qnix then I would be on it like a shot.

I've had my Qnix for around 5 months now and I'm thinking of overclocking it. I did try it on a 100Hz profile once when I first received it and it seemed fine but I never pushed it any further than that and it has been running on the stock 60Hz ever since.

Can OC'ing it reduce it's life span at all and are there any potentially non-obvious issues to look out for?


----------



## hogofwar

Had my monitor for a while now, no issues.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hogofwar*
> 
> Had my monitor for a while now, no issues.


Thanks, is that overclocked and how far have you managed to push it?


----------



## DemiseGR

My Qnix from storewithstory (ebay) has arrived, will plug it in tonight and revert back with information


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> That monitor is a thing of great beauty. If I didn't already have a Qnix then I would be on it like a shot.
> 
> I've had my Qnix for around 5 months now and I'm thinking of overclocking it. I did try it on a 100Hz profile once when I first received it and it seemed fine but I never pushed it any further than that and it has been running on the stock 60Hz ever since.
> 
> Can OC'ing it reduce it's life span at all and are there any potentially non-obvious issues to look out for?


I'm still thinking of getting either a qnix or star,but i would love this monitor....Thinking i might still get it whether or not it overclocks just for the widescreen....Was hoping to find some users review,but still nothing on them....


----------



## MelonSplitter

Still waiting for tracking info from kcci-us. Ordered on April 14th! Sheesh. I don't know how to rate this company on ebay since they already gave me positive feedback. Oh well, just have to keep waiting and decide that when my monitor gets here. The time now in Korea is 10:14 PM April 22. I guess I won't get a response from the till the next day which will be the 23rd because its evening right now and they are probably out getting faded or asleep.


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freenor*
> 
> Hello everybody
> 
> the display of my qnix has this default
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did someone got the same problem ?
> 
> I test with a new dvi cable, power supply and graphic card, same result


Who did you buy your monitor from?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> Still waiting for tracking info from kcci-us. Ordered on April 14th! Sheesh. I don't know how to rate this company on ebay since they already gave me positive feedback. Oh well, just have to keep waiting and decide that when my monitor gets here.


I got sent this on the 20th:
Quote:


> Sorry for the trouble.
> The manufacturer said this monitor "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II QHD PLS" has problem.
> Subsidiary of Monitor is monitor panel out of stock.
> Currently being manufactured.that's why we couldn't send it to you.
> All sellers that sales this monitor has the same problem.
> 
> So, We will ship on 21 Apr.
> Once again we're really sorry for that.
> Thank you
> 
> - kcci-au


Still hasn't shipped yet.....


----------



## freenor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> Who did you buy your monitor from?


http://www.exportprive.fr
my qnix is working normally for 5 months.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm still thinking of getting either a qnix or star,but i would love this monitor....Thinking i might still get it whether or not it overclocks just for the widescreen....Was hoping to find some users review,but still nothing on them....


Expect the prices to hike once a reliable good review emerges. Those are cheaper than a lot of the 27" models at the moment but the prices on Korean monitors tend to fluctuate a lot.

I have the Qnix and I love it but I would consider that 29" model an upgrade, regardless of refresh rate OC-ability.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freenor*
> 
> http://www.exportprive.fr
> my qnix is working normally for 5 months.


Did they ship it to you from the EU or Asia?

I've noticed that they have French and UK contact details on their website but their registered offices are in HK and South Korea. They seem to offer a 24 month warranty anyway.


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Anyone facing shipping issues. Ordered on 17th from storewithstory and am yet to get a shipping label/tracking.


Hey.

I ordered from storewithstory on the 13th or 14th (don't remember exactly) and they shipped it on the 18th.

So keeping that in mind I'd say it's normal with this seller.


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeHawk*
> 
> Lordy I'm getting old. I'm having to control-mouse-scroll-wheel all my websites now












I'm going from a 1050p to 1440p. I'll probably get lost in all the new space once my monitor arrives


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freenor*
> 
> http://www.exportprive.fr
> my qnix is working normally for 5 months.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going from a 1050p to 1440p. I'll probably get lost in all the new space once my monitor arrives


It's a new and glorious world, you'll love it. The only problem is that you can't go back afterwards.


----------



## Grue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes you will need the Qnix monitor driver installed if you are overclocking via NVCP which is the best way to go using Nvidia!...Without the Qnix inf installed your games will not see your overclock!...Also you will need to use the full patch *nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe* as you are using a 500 series GPU and the full patch will remove the 400mhz limit


Thanks Lawson (repped)! I've installed the Qnix driver(inf) and am running the patch. 120hz is a no-go with my current card --> GTX570. 92hz has some artifacts, so I've settled on 88hz for now and have no issues. I'm really glad I pulled the trigger on this monitor and have already moved my Acer LCD on to a friend









I'll be upgrading my card next. Although I've always ran NVIDIA cards, the price/performance aspect of the R9 290 series vs the GTX780 has me leaning the way of the 290.


----------



## Grue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> Still waiting for tracking info from kcci-us. Ordered on April 14th! Sheesh. I don't know how to rate this company on ebay since they already gave me positive feedback. Oh well, just have to keep waiting and decide that when my monitor gets here. The time now in Korea is 10:14 PM April 22. I guess I won't get a response from the till the next day which will be the 23rd because its evening right now and they are probably out getting faded or asleep.


Hey Melon, It took me almost 2 weeks to get my Perfect Pixel QNIX from KCCI, and when I asked about the delay he sent a similar response to the one you received. I figured I had already waited over a week so I'd just see it through. I'm very glad I waited as I received an Zero dead/stuck pixel monitor with no discernible BLB. Best of luck with your monitor!

Cheers


----------



## hogofwar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Thanks, is that overclocked and how far have you managed to push it?


Sorry my post wasn't in reference to yours, just a standalone post.

I just have a qnix :|


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Unfortunately, it's irrelevant if you have the skills to take off the panel - it's a matte panel underneath, so you will find it pointless to go tempered glass. True glossy panels are getting very rare and hard to find.


Totally agreed ... should have mentioned *confirmed availability* and potential saving's of $50-$80 at the time ($279 tempered glass) ...
That might matter to some








I also agree with you on the sad reasonable priced true glossy's availability, but I think you'll find when Stige removed his tempered glass it was indeed a glossy panel beneath ... this whole glossy vs tempered glass is really frustrating when many of the Korean re-sellers DON'T even know the difference


----------



## boogerlad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That is if they use PWM. Most seem not to, but mine does. I do not detect any flicker though, no headaches, and no PWM artifacts that I can see (multiple edges).
> 
> It's also very interesting that it worked at that. Can you describe what you did exactly? Thanks.


I chopped off from the connector to the part where the wire comes out of the brick. I was surprised to not find two insulated wires inside. Instead, I found one white wire(positive) and the ground wire was just copper coiled around the white. So for initial testing, I stripped off a little bit of the white wire and insulated the ground, shoved it into a molex. Noticed it was extremely dim and it would artifact sometimes. Brightness controls wouldn't work. Didn't realize until I soldered the wires to a real molex connection(white -> yellow on molex, stray wire -> black on molex) that I had it connected to the 5v line instead of the 12v line. Now it works great.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> Hey Melon, It took me almost 2 weeks to get my Perfect Pixel QNIX from KCCI, and when I asked about the delay he sent a similar response to the one you received. I figured I had already waited over a week so I'd just see it through. I'm very glad I waited as I received an Zero dead/stuck pixel monitor with no discernible BLB. Best of luck with your monitor!
> 
> Cheers


Yup, I'm still waiting for tracking information as well. I ordered from kcci-us and I'm getting a bit frustrated&#8230; I'm guessing that it had to do with the long weekend as well.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Im in a bit of stump, im not sure why my monitor isnt working properly. It was working fine yesterday and i shut down my PC regular.
This morning i turned on my PC, No display (Black Screen) but i hear the windows bootup sound. I tried booting up in safe mode and theres display. I unolugged the display port cable and re-plugged it, also same issue? I was running 120Hz before, is there anyway to revert back (keep in mind i cant see anything on regular screen) to stock to test it?
Anyone know what the issue is?

Edit, i remembered i played with the 120Hz settings by hutt132 and thats what made my monitor go pitch black,
i unpatched and deleted all the OC in safe mode and it worked.
Scared me


----------



## Yuri_RP

Ordered mine back at April 1st from storewithstory. QNIX QX2710 Evolution II Matte Perfect Pixel. Waited for a week and eventually the items are sold out. Quick response and refund. Contacted me again when items are ready, items sent on 21st April. Awaiting arrival now.

Btw, I noticed some Monitor with Virtual 4k things. And some True 10 DP that guarantees 120 MHz overclock. Are those true? Have anyone tried them?


----------



## Crowtservo

Just bought the X-Star DP2710 from dream-seller. Got it at $289 on Friday morning, order was processed by the afternoon and it arrived Monday morning. Only down side was that I had to pay $40 in duties (shipped to Canada) when it arrived. Definitely still worth it.

Got it set up last night and it is mint. Zero dead/stuck pixels and I'm instantly blown away by how much better it is than the 1080p TN panel I was using before. I'll be fiddling around with the color calibrations posted on page 1 of this thread tonight.

Couldn't be happier with how it turned out. I was leaning towards the Dell U2713HM but this thread changed my mind. Thanks everyone!


----------



## robinaish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> No.


Thank you very much for the fast and outstanding support!

(new patcher for Catalyst 14.4 already available!)


----------



## DemiseGR

okay so, i followed the overclocking guide to the letter and im stuck at 60fps/hertz on the test.
what do u reckon im doing wrong ?

+rep for help


----------



## cobraxt

Has anybody been able to successfully have their AMD 290 / 290X memory automatically downclock / underclock when idle?
I've tried some of the tips in this thread but still no luck. Currently I'm just manually putting memory at 625 MHz when not gaming.

I am running a triple monitor setup (X-Star @ 110 Hz, and two Dells @ 1680x1050).

Thanks.


----------



## djdynamite123

I have an MSI R9 290 Gaming and the desktop must be at 60hz otherwise anything other than that then the memory doesn't down-clock, just the core during idle. Why do you need to be at over 60Hz at the desktop? makes no sense to me.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> okay so, i followed the overclocking guide to the letter and im stuck at 60fps/hertz on the test.
> what do u reckon im doing wrong ?
> 
> +rep for help


Read this post

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/16390#post_21987247


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobraxt*
> 
> Has anybody been able to successfully have their AMD 290 / 290X memory automatically downclock / underclock when idle?
> I've tried some of the tips in this thread but still no luck. Currently I'm just manually putting memory at 625 MHz when not gaming.
> 
> I am running a triple monitor setup (X-Star @ 110 Hz, and two Dells @ 1680x1050).
> 
> Thanks.


On the desktop with any AMD card not just the R9 290 / 290X the memory clock is unable to downclock at 120hz using such a low pixel clock!.. and even if its raised it to a point where as you can not hit 120hz any more because you have moved to far above the 450mhz pixel limit it still is not able to down clock!...Nvidia cards on the other hand seem to be capable of down clocking there memory using a sightly raise pixel clock which is still close enough to the pixel clock limit of 450mhz and hit 120hz and be able to down clock its memory on the desktop at a lower pixel clock than any AMD card can!

So on the desktop and idle with an AMD card the memory can not down clock at 120hz which means it is drawing as much wattage as if it was running flat out gaming!...In my case this is 4gb of DDR 5 Ram running flat out on the desktop at 1350mhz and drawing an extra 60watts of power which is also adding 10c to my cards idle temp!...None of this will hurt / damage your card in any way at all...or even make it run any hotter when gaming because it cant go any faster than it is at idle on the desktop!...However your electricity bill will go up and if you care about that then i would advise using CCC and making some presets for your custom resolutions as i have done in my picture below...This will enable you at the touch of a keystroke to flick over to 60hz or even 96hz *or even using LCD Standard timings @ 110hz* on the desktop and your GPU memory will be able to down clock!...Once you want to game again just hit your 120hz preset keystroke and off you go!...Or you could even just run 110hz 24/7!


----------



## jacqg

Hi guys, I'm having a really weird issue and I already tried repatching my drivers and reinstalling CRU. I'm really worried that I have to reinstall my drivers for my 7950 because this one has not given me display issues like the old drivers + overclock.

What am I doing wrong? I'm using a 7950 with the QNIX QX2710.

Thank you. I'd really like to get 115 Hz if possible.

P.S. When I go to 120 Hz I see some flickering and whatnot so does that mean it's working even if it doesn't work from the site?

Catalyst version 14.3
Pixel Clock Patcher 1.4.3
but it's showing me 60 Hz on the test site. Help...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacqg*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys, I'm having a really weird issue and I already tried repatching my drivers and reinstalling CRU. I'm really worried that I have to reinstall my drivers for my 7950 because this one has not given me display issues like the old drivers + overclock.
> 
> What am I doing wrong? I'm using a 7950 with the QNIX QX2710.
> 
> Thank you. I'd really like to get 115 Hz if possible.
> 
> P.S. When I go to 120 Hz I see some flickering and whatnot so does that mean it's working even if it doesn't work from the site?
> 
> Catalyst version 14.3
> Pixel Clock Patcher 1.4.3
> but it's showing me 60 Hz on the test site. Help...


For a start i would personally use the stable 13.12 drivers and try again!...Open CRU hit delete top right hand corner!...Find the CRU zip file and hit reset-all.exe and then reboot!...uninstall the 14.3 drivers and install the 13.12 drivers and reboot....Patch drivers!...Also when making custom resolutions in CRU unchecked include extension block!...And for your 120hz timings use these below in my picture!..for the others just add the refresh rate!...Also i would only add 2 custom resolutions to start with and then reboot test!


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacqg*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys, I'm having a really weird issue and I already tried repatching my drivers and reinstalling CRU. I'm really worried that I have to reinstall my drivers for my 7950 because this one has not given me display issues like the old drivers + overclock.
> 
> What am I doing wrong? I'm using a 7950 with the QNIX QX2710.
> 
> Thank you. I'd really like to get 115 Hz if possible.
> 
> P.S. When I go to 120 Hz I see some flickering and whatnot so does that mean it's working even if it doesn't work from the site?
> 
> Catalyst version 14.3
> Pixel Clock Patcher 1.4.3
> but it's showing me 60 Hz on the test site. Help...


I don't see anything wrong with your configuration. Make sure hardware acceleration is enabled in the Chrome advanced settings and restart Chrome.

If that doesn't help, close Chrome and try restarting the video driver using this: http://www.monitortests.com/restart.zip

If that works, then you're hitting an AMD driver bug that only affects Windows 8.1. Rename restart64.exe to restart-only.exe and put it in the Startup folder (Win+R shell:startup) to automatically restart the driver on startup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Open CRU hit delete top right hand corner!...Find the CRU zip file and hit reset-all.exe and then reboot!


This is redundant. Running reset-all.exe already deletes all the overrides, so you don't need to do both.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cobraxt*
> 
> Has anybody been able to successfully have their AMD 290 / 290X memory automatically downclock / underclock when idle?
> I've tried some of the tips in this thread but still no luck. Currently I'm just manually putting memory at 625 MHz when not gaming.
> 
> I am running a triple monitor setup (X-Star @ 110 Hz, and two Dells @ 1680x1050).


The video card will not clock down if you have multiple monitors with different timings because all the monitors need to be synchronized to be able to change the memory clock between refreshes to avoid screen flicker/corruption.

I don't think AMD cards will clock down with multiple monitors even if all the monitors were exactly the same, but supposedly NVIDIA cards will.


----------



## freenor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Did they ship it to you from the EU or Asia?


Ship from South Korea
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> I've noticed that they have French and UK contact details on their website but their registered offices are in HK and South Korea. They seem to offer a 24 month warranty anyway.


24 month warranty but I must paid the return ... not really "cool", and in France, this return cost approximately 150$ ....
I played, I lost this time....
So, if someone have an idea ? I will open the screen tonight, if I see a cable disconnect or something else.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

I've filed a dispute with kcci-au, it's nearly the 24th here now and still hasn't been posted and half my messages haven't received replies.

Found a better deal here anyways: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Multi-True10-2560x1440-HDMI-DVI-LED-Monitor-27-Matte-/151273394782?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item233898d25e&_uhb=1


----------



## Jagan

Finally got my tracking number from kcci-us. Ordered on April 12th, 2014, so I guess they finally got their shipment in and are sending them out!


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Less than 30mins after i filed a dispute the Monitor has been shipped








Quote:


> We're sorry for the late.
> Goods going overseas in Korea was delayed too much.
> I'm really sorry for taking your time,
> Korea Customs have a difficult. That's way delivery was delayed.
> This problem will be resolved and shipment tracking is possible.
> 
> Delivery time will take 3-5 days.
> Thank you.
> 
> - kcci-au


Laughed my ass off when i got the e-mail


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Less than 30mins after i filed a dispute the Monitor has been shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laughed my ass off when i got the e-mail


Just got my email too! And it's about damn time&#8230; I'm pretty excited.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Just got my email too! And it's about damn time&#8230; I'm pretty excited.


Agreed, pretty bad when i paid for it 2 weeks ago









I might even grab one of those True 10 Monitors as well if this one doesn't turn out that good.


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I've filed a dispute with kcci-au, it's nearly the 24th here now and still hasn't been posted and half my messages haven't received replies.
> 
> Found a better deal here anyways: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-Multi-True10-2560x1440-HDMI-DVI-LED-Monitor-27-Matte-/151273394782?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item233898d25e&_uhb=1


So what is this "True 10"? Guaranteed overclock?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So what is this "True 10"? Guaranteed overclock?


From what i can see it is but i don't know for sure.

it's that and the Multiple Inputs that got me interested along with the fact it's only $15 more than the Single input i'm getting


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> From what i can see it is but i don't know for sure.
> 
> it's that and the Multiple Inputs that got me interested along with the fact it's only $15 more than the Single input i'm getting


Yup exactly what I was thinking. This is more of a test course for me as an introduction to 1440p with editing. If I like it, i'm probably going to grab two more.


----------



## Mahalak

If you read back a few pages you'll see that the multi input monitors have higher input lag and do not overclock well at all despite the advertising.

I thought I'd buy that too but I went for the normal qnix because of those, which kcci also shipped just today, after 2 weeks of waiting.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mahalak*
> 
> If you read back a few pages you'll see that the multi input monitors have higher input lag and do not overclock well at all despite the advertising.
> 
> I thought I'd buy that too but I went for the normal qnix because of those, which kcci also shipped just today, after 2 weeks of waiting.


Might just use it as a secondary monitor then, Not sure how well i'm going to go with the Qnix as my primary and a 24" 1080p panel as secondary (refresh rate i mean)


----------



## marmagas

Hi there all my friends!I am ready to pull the trigger in 2 Qnix 1440p from here http://www.exportprive.com/en/others-monitor/30131-qnix-monitor-qx2710-27-led-evolution-ll-black-.html.
I live in Greece and several good sellers dont ship here so i decided to order from here in order to avoid custom fees,i hope!
Has anybody had any problem from exportprive?
I will order 2 of them to eyefinity setup with my existing Dell 2711 also 1440p and displayport capable.
Has anyone the same eyefinity setup?Qnix-Dell-Qnix?
Thanks and waiting for your answers a.....and sorry for my english!


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So what is this "True 10"? Guaranteed overclock?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> From what i can see it is but i don't know for sure.
> 
> it's that and the Multiple Inputs that got me interested along with the fact it's only $15 more than the Single input i'm getting


Multi-input Qnix do not Overclock, only the single input.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Multi-input Qnix do not Overclock, only the single input.


Learn something new everyday, so it's a lie then basically?


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freenor*
> 
> Ship from South Korea
> 24 month warranty but I must paid the return ... not really "cool", and in France, this return cost approximately 150$ ....
> I played, I lost this time....
> So, if someone have an idea ? I will open the screen tonight, if I see a cable disconnect or something else.


It looks like a backlight fault to me. I would personally try to pressure them into providing you with free return delivery before opening it yourself (assuming you haven't opened it already).


----------



## Enfeeble

Hey guys, about to join the club! But... which Qnix monitor would be the best choice? (going to o/c)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/221233250459?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338287809b
This one has 6ms

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/221413502872?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338d45ef98
This one is 8ms

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b
This one is SE, 8ms.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enfeeble*
> 
> Hey guys, about to join the club! But... which Qnix monitor would be the best choice? (going to o/c)
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/221233250459?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338287809b
> This one has 6ms
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/221413502872?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338d45ef98
> This one is 8ms
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b
> This one is SE, 8ms.


They are actually all the same panel, the only difference is the seller dead pixel policy. I'd get one of the first two, since the SE models can have more bad pixels. I had good luck with storewithstory so I'd lean toward that one.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> They are actually all the same panel, the only difference is the seller dead pixel policy. I'd get one of the first two, since the SE models can have more bad pixels. I had good luck with storewithstory so I'd lean toward that one.


I'm looking to order from storewithstory,just curious how long did they take to ship (also how long after you oredered did it arrive) and who did they use for delivery....


----------



## freenor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> It looks like a backlight fault to me. I would personally try to pressure them into providing you with free return delivery before opening it yourself (assuming you haven't opened it already).


I have already open it to change the "stand"


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freenor*
> 
> I have already open it to change the "stand"


It is of course possible then that you caused this yourself when you did that. Despite the crappy stand, I've left mine alone for that reason.


----------



## guppysb

Turns out that my monitor has a defective pixel, highly visible when displaying only the monochrome black. I've already contacted ECOMADE Arena on Amazon, and started the return process. Hopefully they don't give me a hassle.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Multi-input Qnix do not Overclock, only the single input.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Learn something new everyday, so it's a lie then basically?
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

So Multi Input will not overclock at all?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> So Multi Input will not overclock at all?


Nope.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Nope.


Ok then, so they are lying about it.

Good to know, Thanks


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Ok then, so they are lying about it.
> 
> Good to know, Thanks


Since I'd rather not subject myself to the possibility of being sued for libel, I'd rather not make that particular statement about the seller. Quite a few have. Suffice to say, they don't overclock, no matter what the sellers or manufacturers might say.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Since I'd rather not subject myself to the possibility of being sued for libel, I'd rather not make that particular statement about the seller. Quite a few have. Suffice to say, they don't overclock, no matter what the sellers or manufacturers might say.


Pretty plain what they are saying:
Quote:


> Support 3840 x 2160 virtual as well as 120HZ overclocking in 2560 x 1440 resolution up to graphic supporting specifications / 10bit supporing board which is purely domestic technology is installed.


No idea what they mean by graphic support and the 10 bit board though.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Dunno, sent them off a message about it...they might be able to shed some light on it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Learn something new everyday, so it's a lie then basically?


It's not a lie... One seller has shown his monitor overclocked to 120Hz, running the TestUFO test. However, he did not know how to actually test for the frameskip. The video clearly showed frameskip (every other frame) which means that the monitor skips frames when overclocked beyond 60Hz. The seller, as far as he knew, had the monitor overclocked to 120Hz.

Instead of accusing them of lying, just send them a message explaining frameskip to them, helping others who are doing the same. The sellers will very likely cooperate since we are the target market for these monitors.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It's not a lie... One seller has shown his monitor overclocked to 120Hz, running the TestUFO test. However, he did not know how to actually test for the frameskip. The video clearly showed frameskip (every other frame) which means that the monitor skips frames when overclocked beyond 60Hz. The seller, as far as he knew, had the monitor overclocked to 120Hz.
> 
> Instead of accusing them of lying, just send them a message explaining frameskip to them, helping others who are doing the same. The sellers will very likely cooperate since we are the target market for these monitors.


As i said, i've sent them off a message asking them to explain what they mean.

I asked whether getting to 120hz requires special hardware and what they did to verify it.


----------



## bluedevil

Is there something I am missing when setting a color profile? Can't seem to set it at all.

I get this error.

color management system - device is not ready

Also my QX2710 shows up as a Generic PnP Monitor...


----------



## MGMG8GT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It's not a lie... One seller has shown his monitor overclocked to 120Hz, running the TestUFO test. However, he did not know how to actually test for the frameskip. The video clearly showed frameskip (every other frame) which means that the monitor skips frames when overclocked beyond 60Hz. The seller, as far as he knew, had the monitor overclocked to 120Hz.
> 
> Instead of accusing them of lying, just send them a message explaining frameskip to them, helping others who are doing the same. The sellers will very likely cooperate since we are the target market for these monitors.


It has about as much truth in it as when I was sold my 'glossy' panel variant that, even after MULTIPLE direct confirmations of what glossy was, came in tempered glass. I called him out on it and tried to explain the difference, but he said that since I could see my reflection in the monitor it was obviously glossy.


----------



## dude0014

Just some advice to anyone who reads this and is thinking of purchasing a 24 AWG (thick) DVI cable in hopes to attain 120 Hz.

Short story, it doesn't work.
Long story, I previously had 660 GTX in SLI, couldn't get to 120Hz without green line artifacting (Toasty's patch & tightened timings all tried). Now I have an Asus 780Ti DC2 overclocked @ 1266/1925 (Toasty's patch & tightened timings all tried) with the original & thick cable, exact same results as my 660 in SLI.

My conclusion, it depends on your monitor luck. Which is the same conclusion most others in this thread have reached. Don't waste money on expensive cables.

BTW I'm 100% stable on 96Hz 24/7


----------



## DeathAngel

Hello people!









I've lurked here and in other similar threads for a few weeks. Thanks for everyone who contributed to it so far, you have all helped me out a lot already!

Bought a Qnix QX2710 Evo II Single DVI-D input last week and got it today. I bought it on Ebay from storewithstory /"BCC Korea Inc" for 239.90 €, shipping included, not pixel perfect. Considering conversion rates, it was the best deal I found. Unfortunately the seller didn't put an invoice anywhere on the box, so DHL inquired about it for customs and I sent them a screen shot from my Ebay page and the PayPal receipt. That was good enough. But they messed up anyway, since I had to pay customs (wrong) and VAT (too much). I'm currently waiting on an email reply, paid 85.55 € when I should have paid around 46€. We'll see.

I set it up and it worked right out of the box. Luckily, Korean plugs are the same as German ones, so I didn't need the adapter he put in the box (nice to have anyway). Looked for panel play, excessive BLB and pixel issues. Found a green pixel on black/blue background (nothing on white, red, green) in the lower right corner. It's hard to see on blue, but relatively clear on black. But in ordinary tasks, I doubt I'll notice anything. BLB is there on the top of the monitor, but even when I darken my room as much as possible at 7pm, I really have to squint to see it. There is a rather big gap between the panel and the bezel in the middle of the lower bar, it gets better towards the sides. But since that doesn't seem to impact IQ so far, I don't care much. So I'm overall pretty happy with it. Also, I hear no noise coming from the power brick or the monitor so far.

Coming from a Samsung S27A850D of the second batch (the one without all the BLB issues), I am happy that it isn't a noticeable downgrade. The default stand of the Samsung is obviously better, but the Qnix has the same height/tilt I used my Samsung at, so that's a big plus. I also have a height adjustable 100x100 Vesa mount laying around if I ever get the urge to have more options. The glossy plastic is a bit annoying, the lowest portion of the bezel has a nice non-glossy texture to it, why couldn't they just have used that everywhere.

I started OC'ing it right after I checked the general stuff. Hit 96Hz easily, but 120Hz had banding on large color blocks and red-tinted grey. Long story short, it seems my HD7970 can't do more than 450MHz pixel clock, I tried my own cable (I think that was from the Samsung monitor) and the supplied one, both show the same issue. So I'm running it now at 115Hz at reduced settings and have a default 60 Hz profile for driver upgrades and 96Hz if I get the urge to watch 24p content and 115Hz doesn't cut it there. Maybe I get a bigger cable at some point and try again, but honestly, I'm content for now.

I haven't had time to play a game, yet. But I'm really looking forward to it. I'll probably have to reduce settings on newer titles, since I'm not going CF (I have a good 550W PSU and water cooling, so I don't want to mess with anything at the moment). Maybe I'll upgrade when the 20nm GPUs are good. I'm using a color profile from dascth and like it.

Now I just have to find someone who wants to buy my Samsung, hopefully for a small profit compared to the Qnix.


----------



## guppysb

Is there any way to repair this stuck pixel?

ECOMADE Arena says that "Dark & White dots are up to 3 dots agreed to perfect pixel standard."

Apparently, R,G,B "dot" cannot exist in the perfect pixel, but 3-5 white/gray "dots" can exist. The defective pixel isn't visible when displaying White/Red/Blue/Green shades, but only when it's grey and dark shades, leading me to believe that the pixel is defective and is absorbing light from the back-lighting, even when it shouldn't.

They also mention in their warranty image that "In other words, perfect pixel monitor does not have bright stuck pixels." Don't know how much I should fight them on this.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I'm looking to order from storewithstory,just curious how long did they take to ship (also how long after you oredered did it arrive) and who did they use for delivery....


I think they shipped next day, and then DHL took about three days to deliver it. I ordered Wednesday and got it the next Tuesday, I think it was. That was a day later than it should have been due to a DHL flight delay.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guppysb*
> 
> Is there any way to repair this stuck pixel?
> 
> ECOMADE Arena says that "Dark & White dots are up to 3 dots agreed to perfect pixel standard."
> 
> Apparently, R,G,B "dot" cannot exist in the perfect pixel, but 3-5 white/gray "dots" can exist. The defective pixel isn't visible when displaying White/Red/Blue/Green shades, but only when it's grey and dark shades, leading me to believe that the pixel is defective and is absorbing light from the back-lighting, even when it shouldn't.
> 
> They also mention in their warranty image that "In other words, perfect pixel monitor does not have bright stuck pixels." Don't know how much I should fight them on this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There are a couple of programs that are supposed to be able to help fix stuck pixels, you could try one of them and see if it helps. This is one of them:

http://www.jscreenfix.com

Or

http://www.jscreenfix.com/screensaver.html


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Is there something I am missing when setting a color profile? Can't seem to set it at all.
> 
> I get this error.
> 
> color management system - device is not ready
> 
> Also my QX2710 shows up as a Generic PnP Monitor...


Use Color Sustainer. Highly recommended!









http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> So Multi Input will not overclock at all?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It's not a lie... One seller has shown his monitor overclocked to 120Hz, running the TestUFO test. However, he did not know how to actually test for the frameskip. The video clearly showed frameskip (every other frame) which means that the monitor skips frames when overclocked beyond 60Hz. The seller, as far as he knew, had the monitor overclocked to 120Hz.
> 
> Instead of accusing them of lying, just send them a message explaining frameskip to them, helping others who are doing the same. The sellers will very likely cooperate since we are the target market for these monitors.
Click to expand...

This exactly ... but I would also refer him to the recent TFT official Review *[HERE]* ...
I've been very vocal about this since the release of the True10 multi-input *[like HERE]
*. You could also search my posts last 2-3 weeks (this thread). This has lead to a private conversation with one of the major Korean re-sellers reps who deals directly with QNIX. He speaks very good English and understands our complaints/arguments regarding false advertising legalese. He now understands our complaints regarding the True10 overclocks and frame skipping/dropping








We are currently conversing about the problem below regarding Tempered Glass being sold as a "true" glossy panel. Korean education is the key and I think "some" progress is being made







If your really interested you can PM me for details?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGMG8GT*
> 
> It has about as much truth in it as when I was sold my 'glossy' panel variant that, even after MULTIPLE direct confirmations of what glossy was, came in tempered glass. I called him out on it and tried to explain the difference, but he said that since I could see my reflection in the monitor it was obviously glossy.


I feel your frustration and as mentioned above I hope we are making progress here. Would you mind recalling (PM?) or linking the details of your frustrating experience? Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Is there something I am missing when setting a color profile? Can't seem to set it at all.
> 
> I get this error.
> 
> color management system - device is not ready
> Also my QX2710 shows up as a Generic PnP Monitor...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Use Color Sustainer. Highly recommended!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html
Click to expand...

Agreed again! I use it but be warned you'll have to use Yaz's work around *[HERE]* for some older profiles like in the OP








As far as the generic monitor naming make sure you have installed the QNIX monitor driver 1st, should work fine for AMD cards as well .... see zip file

QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file


Oooops forgot another pretty decent "private" ebay auction came on last night ... 120Hz tested with a coulple of funky pixels to the side









Presently $200 free ship / 2 days left








http://www.ebay.com/itm/201078103620?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Edit: I think this is OCN member "exzacklyright" *[HERE]* ... SoCal


----------



## MelonSplitter

Just received tracking confirm from kcci-us. I hope the wait was well worth it. Wish me luck:thumbsups


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Hey guys just ordered my monitor....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/221413502872?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338d45ef98

I have read about there being patches to use,not sure when and why it would be needed,i will be using sli 780's and hopefully be able to get to 96Hz....

Is there any software i will need to get a 96Hz overclock,also how do you change the generic monitor naming....?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This exactly ... but I would also refer him to the recent TFT official Review *[HERE]* ...
> I've been very vocal about this since the release of the True10 multi-input *[like HERE]
> *. You could also search my posts last 2-3 weeks (this thread). This has lead to a private conversation with one of the major Korean re-sellers reps who deals directly with QNIX. He speaks very good English and understands our complaints/arguments regarding false advertising legalese. He now understands our complaints regarding the True10 overclocks and frame skipping/dropping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are currently conversing about the problem below regarding Tempered Glass being sold as a "true" glossy panel. Korean education is the key and I think "some" progress is being made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your really interested you can PM me for details?


Just got a reply back from the seller, seems they were misinformed about this:
Quote:


> Hello
> We received information from manufacturer.
> According to spec of computer, Max OC is 120Hz.
> About OC, we have not enough information.
> Thanks


Thanks for your input as well, there are too many pages in this thread now for me to go through it one by one


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys just ordered my monitor....
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/221413502872?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338d45ef98
> 
> I have read about there being patches to use,not sure when and why it would be needed,i will be using sli 780's and hopefully be able to get to 96Hz....
> 
> Is there any software i will need to get a 96Hz overclock,also how do you change the generic monitor naming....?


Congrats.
There is a few different methods. Easiest way is to add a custom resolution profile in the NVCP. Set to 96Hz, test, apply. Done. Going up to 120Hz, if stable, will cause a color shift and a more complex method is involved to add a color profile. See first page of this thread for instructions.

BTW 780 SLI......... You should be aiming for 120Hz.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Just got a reply back from the seller, seems they were misinformed about this:
> Thanks for your input as well, there are too many pages in this thread now for me to go through it one by one


1700+ pages is a lot!!! LOL. These single input OCable 1440p are one of the most popular gaming and workstation monitors currently available.

BTW 99% of those Ebay sellers will just tell you anything, and most will not even under stand what a skipped-frame is. Best to get your info from OCN.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> 1700+ pages is a lot!!! LOL. These single input OCable 1440p are one of the most popular gaming and workstation monitors currently available.
> 
> BTW 99% of those Ebay sellers will just tell you anything, and most will not even under stand what a skipped-frame is. Best to get your info from OCN.


Just thinking about getting a second one at some stage because i'm not sure how i'm going to go with one 1440p Monitor at 96hz or so and one 1080p at 60hz whether it would conflict and cause issues

I pretty much get all my info from OCN, one of the most reliable places on the net considering we actually pay for our stuff









only 448 pages for me but i have it at 40 per page


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Just thinking about getting a second one at some stage because i'm not sure how i'm going to go with one 1440p Monitor at 96hz or so and one 1080p at 60hz whether it would conflict and cause issues


Zero issues for me. I use the Qnix at 120Hz as my main monitor and a HP ZR2240w 1080p at 60Hz as a secondary monitor. However, I'm not stopping you from getting a second Qnix/X-Star since they are pretty badass monitors.







You'd have a lot more screen estate with a 2nd 1440p instead of just a 1080p res.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Congrats.
> There is a few different methods. Easiest way is to add a custom resolution profile in the NVCP. Set to 96Hz, test, apply. Done. Going up to 120Hz, if stable, will cause a color shift and a more complex method is involved to add a color profile. See first page of this thread for instructions.
> 
> BTW 780 SLI......... You should be aiming for 120Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1700+ pages is a lot!!! LOL. These single input OCable 1440p are one of the most popular gaming and workstation monitors currently available.
> 
> BTW 99% of those Ebay sellers will just tell you anything, and most will not even under stand what a skipped-frame is. Best to get your info from OCN.


So I dnt need any software hack to bump the res up pass 60Hz...? Will be looking through the Op to learn what I can before the monitor arrives....Also am I more likely to reach 120Hz with 780 sli or is it just the luck of the draw...?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Zero issues for me. I use the Qnix at 120Hz as my main monitor and a HP ZR2240w 1080p at 60Hz as a secondary monitor. However, I'm not stopping you from getting a second Qnix/X-Star since they are pretty badass monitors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'd have a lot more screen estate with a 2nd 1440p instead of just a 1080p res.


Good to hear!









I might get one in the future but i usually only play movies etc on it so i'll be fine for a while i think.


----------



## october414

I just got my monitor, everything looks good except some kind of a small tiny dust / dirt inside the panel.. Not a big of a deal for me right now, maybe I'll try to fix it later.
I have a question regarding overclocking, this has probably been asked a thousand times (yes i searched the thread







).

I attempted to overclock to 96hz from Nvidias custom resolution option, but UFO Test would only show 88 as valid. I also tried using CRU but it didnt change my refresh rate (according to UFO). Can someone help me?

All in all, fantastic looking monitor. Will check for bleed later on at night.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Hey guys just ordered my monitor....
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/221413502872?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338d45ef98
> 
> I have read about there being patches to use, not sure when and why it would be needed, i will be using sli 780's and hopefully be able to get to 96Hz....
> 
> Is there any software i will need to get a 96Hz overclock,also *how do you change the generic monitor naming ...?*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> So I don't need any software hack to bump the res up pass 60Hz...? Will be looking through the Op to learn what I can before the monitor arrives....Also am I more likely to reach 120Hz with 780 sli or is it just the luck of the draw...?
Click to expand...

CONGRATULATIONS! ...The OP is very useful but it is outdated, especially regarding Nvidia GPU's / Installing the QNIX monitor driver / How to fix BLB / ICC and Color Sustainer ... etc etc ... I wish the OP would collaborate with someone like ToastyX/Lawson/Yasamoka to update it!

Change generic monitor name? Uhhh try reading my post just 2 posts above yours *[HERE]* towards the bottom









QNIX Monitor Driver (instructions inside)

QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file


After you've initially digested the OP ... you must read this additional info ...

ToastyX *[HERE]
*

ToastyX quote ...
_If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. *The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
*_

I will add that all Nvidia SLI+ users are still using the full patch for any overclock over 60Hz, IIRC.

Just a suggestion, it would be interesting if you tested your initial QNIX overclocks with a single card (780) and no patch just the QNIX driver and Nvidia Control Panel custom res settings, to see if you achieve a higher more stable OC, before you go to your full patched SLI setup! A couple of us still running single cards have achieved 120Hz clocks "without" even tightening the timings @483 pixel clock!

Also note that if you achieve 120Hz and have tightened your timings, your gpu-ram for sure and possibly your gpu-core will not downclock normally when your idling @ desktop ... see more info *[HERE]* between Lawson and I








Matter of fact, read the entire 2 previous pages, some good info from Lawson in there! That will also answer your software patch questions ... again









Actually you might even consider doing an "advanced search" within "search this thread" for usernames like ...
They are all quite helpful!

1)Lawson67 ... general good info, especially last 4-6weeks
2)Yasamoka ... ICC profile and "Color Sustainer" wiz (his program!)
3)ToastyX ... original patch coder, need I say more
4)Spartan F8








5)MenacingTuba









This is just for starters ... if you can't slug through the entire 1700 pages eventually









Hope that helps get you started ... It is many times the luck of the draw for a golden component in this case a 120Hz OC monitor ... BUt it will be a fun ride even if you only get an average one (96Hz)








In all my years of OCing I can honestly say I've only received a few Truly "Golden" cpu/gpu's, but monitors, heehee this has had an enormous impact on my real world user experience, maybe more than any other OC'd single component


----------



## Sgt Bilko

My Monitor has landed in Aus









But i won't be able to pick it up until Monday


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> My Monitor has landed in Aus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i won't be able to pick it up until Monday


Mine just got shipped today and I cnt wait to get it....


----------



## BroJin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> CONGRATULATIONS! ...The OP is very useful but it is outdated, especially regarding Nvidia GPU's / Installing the QNIX monitor driver / How to fix BLB / ICC and Color Sustainer ... etc etc ... I wish the OP would collaborate with someone like ToastyX/Lawson/Yasamoka to update it!
> 
> Change generic monitor name? Uhhh try reading my post just 2 posts above yours *[HERE]* towards the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QNIX Monitor Driver (instructions inside)
> 
> QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file
> 
> 
> After you've initially digested the OP ... you must read this additional info ...
> 
> ToastyX *[HERE]
> *
> 
> ToastyX quote ...
> _If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. *The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
> *_
> all this ime i have been using catleap driver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will add that all Nvidia SLI+ users are still using the full patch for any overclock over 60Hz, IIRC.
> 
> Just a suggestion, it would be interesting if you tested your initial QNIX overclocks with a single card (780) and no patch just the QNIX driver and Nvidia Control Panel custom res settings, to see if you achieve a higher more stable OC, before you go to your full patched SLI setup! A couple of us still running single cards have achieved 120Hz clocks "without" even tightening the timings @483 pixel clock!
> 
> Also note that if you achieve 120Hz and have tightened your timings, your ram for sure and possibly your gpu will not downclock normally when your idling @ desktop ... see more info *[HERE]* between Lawson and I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matter of fact, read the entire 2 previous pages, some good info from Lawson in there! That will also answer your software patch questions ... again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually you might even consider doing an "advanced search" within "search this thread" for usernames like ...
> They are all quite helpful!
> 
> 1)Lawson67 ... general good info, especially last 4-6weeks
> 2)Yasamoka ... ICC profile and "Color Sustainer" wiz (his program!)
> 3)ToastyX ... original patch coder, need I say more
> 4)Spartan F8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5)MenacingTuba
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is just for starters ... if you can't slug through the entire 1700 pages eventually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps get you started ... It is many times the luck of the draw for a golden component in this case a 120Hz OC monitor ... BUt it will be a fun ride even if you only get an average one (96Hz)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all my years of OCing I can honestly say I've only received a few Truly "Golden" cpu/gpu's, but monitors, heehee this has had an enormous impact on my real world user experience, maybe more than any other OC'd single component


----------



## BroJin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> My Monitor has landed in Aus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i won't be able to pick it up until Monday


Grats bro! Hope everything goes well









How long did it take? Took 2 days from Korea to USA. Us Koreans are pretty anal about fast deliveries


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroJin*
> 
> Grats bro! Hope everything goes well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long did it take? Took 2 days from Korea to USA. Us Koreans are pretty anal about fast deliveries


Was waiting for 2 weeks after payment then shipped out on the 23rd, landed in Aus after a 9 1/2 hr flight (was watching it







) on the 25th and it will sit in Customs here till Monday i suppose


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> CONGRATULATIONS! ...The OP is very useful but it is outdated, especially regarding Nvidia GPU's / Installing the QNIX monitor driver / How to fix BLB / ICC and Color Sustainer ... etc etc ... I wish the OP would collaborate with someone like ToastyX/Lawson/Yasamoka to update it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Change generic monitor name? Uhhh try reading my post just 2 posts above yours *[HERE]* towards the bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QNIX Monitor Driver (instructions inside)
> 
> QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file
> 
> 
> After you've initially digested the OP ... you must read this additional info ...
> 
> ToastyX *[HERE]
> *
> 
> ToastyX quote ...
> _If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. *The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
> *_
> 
> I will add that all Nvidia SLI+ users are still using the full patch for any overclock over 60Hz, IIRC.
> 
> Just a suggestion, it would be interesting if you tested your initial QNIX overclocks with a single card (780) and no patch just the QNIX driver and Nvidia Control Panel custom res settings, to see if you achieve a higher more stable OC, before you go to your full patched SLI setup! A couple of us still running single cards have achieved 120Hz clocks "without" even tightening the timings @483 pixel clock!
> 
> Also note that if you achieve 120Hz and have tightened your timings, your ram for sure and possibly your gpu will not downclock normally when your idling @ desktop ... see more info *[HERE]* between Lawson and I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matter of fact, read the entire 2 previous pages, some good info from Lawson in there! That will also answer your software patch questions ... again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually you might even consider doing an "advanced search" within "search this thread" for usernames like ...
> They are all quite helpful!
> 
> 1)Lawson67 ... general good info, especially last 4-6weeks
> 2)Yasamoka ... ICC profile and "Color Sustainer" wiz (his program!)
> 3)ToastyX ... original patch coder, need I say more
> 4)Spartan F8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5)MenacingTuba
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is just for starters ... if you can't slug through the entire 1700 pages eventually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps get you started ... It is many times the luck of the draw for a golden component in this case a 120Hz OC monitor ... BUt it will be a fun ride even if you only get an average one (96Hz)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all my years of OCing I can honestly say I've only received a few Truly "Golden" cpu/gpu's, but monitors, heehee this has had an enormous impact on my real world user experience, maybe more than any other OC'd single component


Thx for all this info,i have already downloaded about 3 files i will need to get everything going....Will be hitting up the thread when it does arrive (just in case i need extra help)....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Was waiting for 2 weeks after payment then shipped out on the 23rd, landed in Aus after a 9 1/2 hr flight (was watching it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) on the 25th and it will sit in Customs here till Monday i suppose


Keeping an eye on mine also,still in korea tho....They used DHL for shipping,what did they use for you....? Hopefully i can get it by wednesday if not sooner....


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Thx for all this info,i have already downloaded about 3 files i will need to get everything going....Will be hitting up the thread when it does arrive (just in case i need extra help)....
> Keeping an eye on mine also,still in korea tho....They used DHL for shipping,what did they use for you....? Hopefully i can get it by wednesday if not sooner....


They used EMS for me, awesome tracking system, transfers across countries, gives me flight numbers as well which is nice


----------



## HuwSharpe

All this talk about ordering, tracking and delivery, i though i would just share a bit of info on the process for myself, in the UK.

After 20 days i received a letter from Parcel Force (delivery firm), saying they have a parcel for me, which will be delivered once i pay Import VAT and a Clarence Fee, totalling £35.34. To be honest i expected as much but i mention just in case anyone was not aware of these charges and looking to order such a monitor from Korea. I have paid the charges and expecting the monitor Monday, though i await somewhat nervously; will it work at all? will there be dead pixels, etc. Hopefully it will be perfect.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuwSharpe*
> 
> All this talk about ordering, tracking and delivery, i though i would just share a bit of info on the process for myself, in the UK.
> 
> After 20 days i received a letter from Parcel Force (delivery firm), saying they have a parcel for me, which will be delivered once i pay Import VAT and a Clarence Fee, totalling £35.34. To be honest i expected as much but i mention just in case anyone was not aware of these charges and looking to order such a monitor from Korea. I have paid the charges and expecting the monitor Monday, though i await somewhat nervously; will it work at all? will there be dead pixels, etc. Hopefully it will be perfect.


I know what you mean,even tho i ordered the perfect pixel,i just hope that when it gets here i will not have any problems with it....


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I know what you mean,even tho i ordered the perfect pixel,i just hope that when it gets here i will not have any problems with it....


I got "Pixel Perfect" as well but they don't count it as faulty unless it has more than 5 dead pixels so it's always a gamble.

but you get what you pay for right?


----------



## KommanderKeen

I have followed the guide for overclocking.

1. Patch AMD drivers
2. Set-up a 120hz CRU Profile (I added a 120hz part to the "detailed resolutions" window).
3. Reboot and open AMD CCC. Selected the "my Digital flatpanels" tab and I can see "maximum reported refresh rate 120hz".

But when I test via the frameskipping website it tells me it is still just 60hz.

Any clues?

*edit* I tried the same thing with a 96hz setting. CCC changed accordingly but the testing website still came back with 60hz. I also tried the restart program for the drivers rather than actually restarting.


----------



## Muckie

Hello,

sorry for my bad english..

I have a question. I have a Sapphire Vapor X R9 290 OC graphiccard and the Qnix 2710 with only dual dvi input.
I get only 90Hz by overclocking. Do you have suggestions how i can get more Hz?
I was trying a high end cable but the result was the same..

Thanks in advance..


----------



## MuteMode

I know the TRUE10 and Multi-Input models lack ability to overclock but how are they otherwise? I'm looking to replace an aging 21" TN monitor that I currently use for my PS4. How well would a multi-input model work for this? I believe the PS4 only supports up to 1080p resolution but these models have a scaler that would solve this issue, right?


----------



## sanibak

I ordered an X-Star DP2710 Matte standard panel (no perfect pixel guarantee) from dream-seller on 4/19/14. The monitor shipped out on 4/21/14, and I just received it in the US on 4/25/14. I am happy to say that the monitor has zero dead pixels and zero blacklight bleed. I installed the x-star drivers Lawson had posted earlier in the thread. I created a customized resolution in nvidia control panel and followed the custom 120 Hz timings found in the thread. I ran the tester from OP to see if there were any skipped frames, and it came out valid.

I am very happy with the monitor and speed of shipping!


----------



## BroJin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muckie*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> sorry for my bad english..
> 
> I have a question. I have a Sapphire Vapor X R9 290 OC graphiccard and the Qnix 2710 with only dual dvi input.
> I get only 90Hz by overclocking. Do you have suggestions how i can get more Hz?
> I was trying a high end cable but the result was the same..
> 
> Thanks in advance..


Not every Qnix or Xstar monitor going to overclock to 120hz :Are you getting artifacts when your overclocking above 90hz or nothing?
by the way i have to same video card


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KommanderKeen*
> 
> I have followed the guide for overclocking.
> 
> 1. Patch AMD drivers
> 2. Set-up a 120hz CRU Profile (I added a 120hz part to the "detailed resolutions" window).
> 3. Reboot and open AMD CCC. Selected the "my Digital flatpanels" tab and I can see "maximum reported refresh rate 120hz".
> 
> But when I test via the frameskipping website it tells me it is still just 60hz.
> 
> Any clues?
> 
> *edit* I tried the same thing with a 96hz setting. CCC changed accordingly but the testing website still came back with 60hz. I also tried the restart program for the drivers rather than actually restarting.


Use these timings in the picture below for your 120hz profile and use Google chrome to test UFO page and make sure Use hardware acceleration when available turned on in the chrome settings then try UFO site again










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muckie*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> sorry for my bad english..
> 
> I have a question. I have a Sapphire Vapor X R9 290 OC graphiccard and the Qnix 2710 with only dual dvi input.
> I get only 90Hz by overclocking. Do you have suggestions how i can get more Hz?
> I was trying a high end cable but the result was the same..
> 
> Thanks in advance..


Have you patched your drivers?...And set resolutions in CRU and untick include extension block then rebooted?...Also try using my timings for your 120hz profile in the picture above
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanibak*
> 
> I ordered an X-Star DP2710 Matte standard panel (no perfect pixel guarantee) from dream-seller on 4/19/14. The monitor shipped out on 4/21/14, and I just received it in the US on 4/25/14. I am happy to say that the monitor has zero dead pixels and zero blacklight bleed. I installed the x-star drivers Lawson had posted earlier in the thread. I created a customized resolution in nvidia control panel and followed the custom 120 Hz timings found in the thread. I ran the tester from OP to see if there were any skipped frames, and it came out valid.
> 
> I am very happy with the monitor and speed of shipping!


Glad your sorted mate and welcome to the club


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Use these timings in the picture below for your 120hz profile and use Google chrome to test UFO page and make sure Use hardware acceleration when available turned on in the chrome settings then try UFO site again


The timing chart that you put up,is that for amd cards only,or can i use my nvidia cards with it once i get my monitor and i'm ready to overclock it....?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> The timing chart that you put up,is that for amd cards only,or can i use my nvidia cards with it once i get my monitor and i'm ready to overclock it....?


Yes these 120hz timings should be fine for your nvidia cards...Here is a screen shot below with the 120hz timings included in the NVCP that i had taken when i had my Nvidia cards.. installed I am now running 2x R9 290,s....Also you will need to install the monitor driver file below so that your games will see your custom refresh rates!

Edit: Just to be clear with Nvidia cards i recommend Using the NVCP and the Monitor driver to make your custom resolutions and not to use CRU!.. The EDID overrides that CRU creates conflicts with Nvida Geforce Experience which means windows on many occasions will not see your custom refresh rates!...However you can use CRU by importing the blank-extension.dat work around which should enable you to use CRU and leave Nvida Geforce Experience installed!...But I found using this method that still on many occasions windows still refused to see my custom refresh rates!...

However using NVCP and the monitor driver method you will not have any conflicts with Nvidia Geforce Experience and you can leave it installed and enjoy it as i did and windows will always see your custom refresh rates!.. And this is why i recommend this method











qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## Johnny Rook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeathAngel*
> 
> Bought a Qnix QX2710 Evo II Single DVI-D input last week and got it today. I bought it on Ebay from storewithstory /"BCC Korea Inc" for 239.90 €, shipping included, not pixel perfect. Considering conversion rates, it was the best deal I found. Unfortunately the seller didn't put an invoice anywhere on the box, so DHL inquired about it for customs and I sent them a screen shot from my Ebay page and the PayPal receipt. That was good enough. But they messed up anyway, since I had to pay customs (wrong) and VAT (too much). I'm currently waiting on an email reply, paid 85.55 € when I should have paid around 46€. We'll see.


A friend of mine had a problem with DHL. They overtaxed the monitor with fees that just don't apply to monitor in EU. They were about to charge him 165€. Fortunately, he noticed before paying and DHL fixed the bill. He payed around €110, which is more than you but, VAT here is 23%. Don't forget DHL charges you for processing the package through customs. And they charge you hard: ~50€. That amount + VAT you have to pay, makes me believe DHL charged you just right... I hope I am wrong though. Please, keep me posted. Thanks


----------



## Jakeey802

Ordered a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II which should hopefully be here tuesday


----------



## Muckie

Good Morning.

Yes i patch my drivers. Then i was creating a custom profile in CRU.

The problem is: if i increase the Hz over 90Hz i have a 2-3cm wide stripe on the right side of the monitor. Some colours are there incorrectly.


at 100Hz i have the green strips..

Now i will test your profile..
Edit: with your profile i have green stripes @120Hz


----------



## fredocini

I can't stop checking the shipping status for my monitor lol&#8230;. Arrived in Vancouver a day and a half ago. I should hopefully see it in Calgary by Monday&#8230;. Hopefully...


----------



## Shibuya

ugh... I was moving something on my desk and this happened



Is there an upgrade to the Evo II or is the QNIX still the best for the price range?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes these 120hz timings should be fine for your nvidia cards...Here is a screen shot below with the 120hz timings included in the NVCP that i had taken when i had my Nvidia cards.. installed I am now running 2x R9 290,s....Also you will need to install the monitor driver file below so that your games will see your custom refresh rates!
> 
> Edit: Just to be clear with Nvidia cards i recommend Using the NVCP and the Monitor driver to make your custom resolutions and not to use CRU!.. The EDID overrides that CRU creates conflicts with Nvida Geforce Experience which means windows on many occasions will not see your custom refresh rates!...However you can use CRU by importing the blank-extension.dat work around which should enable you to use CRU and leave Nvida Geforce Experience installed!...But I found using this method that still on many occasions windows still refused to see my custom refresh rates!...
> 
> However using NVCP and the monitor driver method you will not have any conflicts with Nvidia Geforce Experience and you can leave it installed and enjoy it as i did and windows will always see your custom refresh rates!.. And this is why i recommend this method
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file


Thx for the help mate....So basically all i will need is the nvidia patcher and the qnix driver file and i will be set....?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Ordered a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II which should hopefully be here tuesday


How did you buy your monitor from and who's shipping it....Ordered mine on thursday and this is the last update i have seen in 24 hours
Quote:


> Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)


Hopefully the next update it will show it being in aus....


----------



## Darkmader

So after reading about these for many years I decided it was time. Especially since word here is they are phasing out the x-star/qnix single dvd-d and if that happens prices will go up. So I got the x-star from Dreamseller when it was on sale for $279. I ordered it and he shipped it the next day and it arrived 4 days later. No dead pixels, BLB on bottom right/left side, but not too sure if that's standard for LED's, I hit 96hz no problem, green lines for 120 but I'll give it a shot later today with my monoprices cables coming and lawson67's guide with my 6870 with the monitor driver and latest patches.

I wish the @ would update the first page. Half of the calibrations aren't working. I guess the BLB fix is outdated? I'd like a link to the best method if I decide to pull this apart and do it correctly. Yasamoka has a program for calibration? I've been scanning this board (hence I knew about the monitor driver) but I don't feel like searching trying to find a needle in a haystack with 1792 pages.

It will take me a while to get use to all the room even coming from a 1080 24inch. I'm tempted when browsing to have windows bump it up to 125% in display, but I probably shouldn't as my eyes need to adjust for a week or two. What is affecting me is using 125% on my HTPC which I'm currently using now sitting on my lazy boy typing this out on my 2014 Panasonic 60 inch television (RIP Plasma).

Lawsom67: What program are you using for the monitoring tools on your desktop? I need to pick that up, hopefully it's not a specific motherboard program. Thanks guys for all your help and being guinea pigs for all us that are getting these now


----------



## DeathAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny Rook*
> 
> Don't forget DHL charges you for processing the package through customs. And they charge you hard: ~50€. That amount + VAT you have to pay, makes me believe DHL charged you just right... I hope I am wrong though. Please, keep me posted. Thanks


That does not show up on their invoice though and I haven't paid them for getting something through customs so far (3 packages from China). I paid 33.59 € Customs Duty, which does not apply to t his monitor. Then I paid 51.96 € Einfuhrumsatzsteuer (VAT) which would be fine if the monitor+shipping cost 273.47 €, but it only cost 239.90 €. Though that 6€ difference with VAT I don't care too much about.







Sent their complaints department an email on Thursday, haven't heard back so far. We'll see.


----------



## Darkmader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shibuya*
> 
> ugh... I was moving something on my desk and this happened
> 
> 
> 
> Is there an upgrade to the Evo II or is the QNIX still the best for the price range?


If you want to OC then qnix/x-star is the way to go. I've seen that happen before on laptops and just swapped out the panel with a new one no problem. I wonder if you can pick up just the glass itself on ebay instead of replacing the whole monitor. You might have options with glossy/matte etc... too. You'd have to do a bit of research but I'm sure it's possible and would save you some $$$$.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Thx for the help mate....So basically all i will need is the nvidia patcher and the qnix driver file and i will be set....?


Yes mate that's all you need and you will be good to go









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muckie*
> 
> Good Morning.
> 
> Yes i patch my drivers. Then i was creating a custom profile in CRU.
> 
> The problem is: if i increase the Hz over 90Hz i have a 2-3cm wide stripe on the right side of the monitor. Some colours are there incorrectly.
> 
> 
> at 100Hz i have the green strips..
> 
> Now i will test your profile..
> Edit: with your profile i have green stripes @120Hz


Hi Muckie i have never seen this problems with a 2-3cm wide stripe on the right side of the monitor!...Can you please verify that you have made your custom resolutions in CRU using 2560x1440

Also i believe from your edit you may have now sorted out the 2-3cm wide stripe on the right side of the monitor and indeed used my 120hz timings which have got you over 100hz but you are having green lines at 120hz?...

If this is the case it may well be that your monitor can not hit 120hz!...Only thing that you can try now to hit 120hz is to try another cable which may or may not work!....Also try another DVI-D port on your graphic card if you have one?...This alone has helped some people hit 120hz......If that all fails i am afraid its most likely that your monitor can not hit 120hz!..However if you can hit 96hz or above you will be just fine








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> I wish the @ would update the first page. Half of the calibrations aren't working. I guess the BLB fix is outdated? I'd like a link to the best method if I decide to pull this apart and do it correctly. Yasamoka has a program for calibration? I've been scanning this board (hence I knew about the monitor driver) but I don't feel like searching trying to find a needle in a haystack with 1792 pages.
> 
> It will take me a while to get use to all the room even coming from a 1080 24inch. I'm tempted when browsing to have windows bump it up to 125% in display, but I probably shouldn't as my eyes need to adjust for a week or two. What is affecting me is using 125% on my HTPC which I'm currently using now sitting on my lazy boy typing this out on my 2014 Panasonic 60 inch television (RIP Plasma).
> 
> Lawsom67: What program are you using for the monitoring tools on your desktop? I need to pick that up, hopefully it's not a specific motherboard program. Thanks guys for all your help and being guinea pigs for all us that are getting these now


Yes the OP frustratingly needs an update!...You have asked a few questions and will do my best to answer them for you!....As for BLB the biggest course for these monitors to be classed as A- grade panels i believe is BLB!...some of course have dead/stuck pixels unless you pay extra for an ultimate perfect pixel monitor as i did!..However most if not all of these monitors to some degree..and some worse than others have have BLB!...The BLB on these monitors come from the fact that the metal frame that the panel is sat in is bent!....

The link below contains a few posts of mine on that page where i describe striping my monitor down and removing the panel and then the metal frame from the panel and straightening frame...Please read them carefully as they will help you alot before you strip down your monitor if indeed you do receive a monitor with BLB that you feel can not live with!..
Oh and BTW you do not need tape a straight frame alone will fix your BLB 100%.....Also tape can put pressure between the metal frame and the panel and generate BLB ....just forget about tape!

You asked for Yasamoka program to apply ICC profiles!...Its called Color Sustainer and i have also linked that below...Also feel free to try my 120hz and 96hz ICC profiles which i shall also link below i calibrated these at a brightness of 200cd/m which at 120hz is roughly 18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI + button and 17 clicks for the 96hz profile!....We use these ICC profiles to correct the higher Gamma shift ( darker screen ) seen as you raise your monitors refresh rate!....The use of ICC profiles completely corrects the higher Gamma shift seen at higher refresh rates!

Edit: Darkmader You asked about my desktop monitoring programs!...This is a free utility called 8Gadgetpack!...Also linked below.....However by far the best monitor info program i use and which also works via RTSS to display my OSD is HWiNFO Also linked below

If you found any of my posts helpful then don't forget the REP+ button at the bottom of my posts









My BLB fix
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/12970

Yasamoka ICC profile program ( Color Sustainer )
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html

My ICC Profiles

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


8Gadgetpack
http://www.howtogeek.com/178869/how-to-add-gadgets-back-to-windows-8.1/

HWiFO
http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php


----------



## lawson67

BTW for all the AMD card owners out there the new stable 14.4 Drivers are out today and run fantastic on my 2x R9 290 cards at 120hz!...And yes toastys new AMD patch supports the new AMD 14.4 drivers


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Pretty much thinking I am gonna pull the trigger on a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II soon, but I am also thinking about replacing my GPU as well. What would one suggest? A GTX 780 or a R9 290?


Honestly which ever one you can find cheaper. They are both comparable, the 780 is cooler/more silent. I know 290's used to be about $80-100 cheaper, not sure if that is the case anymore though.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> BTW for all the AMD card owners out there the new stable 14.4 Drivers are out today and run fantastic on my 2x R9 290 cards at 120hz!...And yes toastys new AMD patch supports the AMD 14.4 drivers


hey man when your pc goes to sleep, are you able to get it to wake up with these new drivers? My pc will wake up but the cards only display a blank screen.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> hey man when your pc goes to sleep, are you able to get it to wake up with these new drivers? My pc will wake up but the cards only display a blank screen.


I don't use the go to sleep mode!...My monitor and hards drives etc are set to stay awake 24/7 so i cant help you there!... sorry mate


----------



## Xinoxide

I have never had an issue coming out of sleep with my card, But I also use the PT1 bios on my 290(x).


----------



## Mahalak

Received my monitor from kcci-us after almost 3 weeks of waiting, but it seems to have been worth it, I bought pixel perfect and it seems I've got it, theres next to no visible backlight bleed, couldnt find a single pixel issue either so I'm very happy.
It seems to be doing perfect at 96hz, can go to 115 without green lines however some other artifact appears at anything above 100hz, not sure what it would be called, in a vertical stripe on the left side of the screen, and to a lesser extent another stripe in the middle of the screen seems to fail at gradiants, see the pic.

This is only with the stock cable for now, not sure if I should even bother with a more expensive cable because I want to keep my PC in a different room so I'd need to use a 3-5m cable, tried with a noname 5m cable and that already cannot handle anything above 75hz, so it might not be worth spending on it.


----------



## Jakeey802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> How did you buy your monitor from and who's shipping it....Ordered mine on thursday and this is the last update i have seen in 24 hours
> s....


Ordered mine off eBay for $298 and getting shipped via DHL. Ordered it Thursday as well and checked it yesterday and said it was in Melbourne


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Honestly which ever one you can find cheaper. They are both comparable, the 780 is cooler/more silent. I know 290's used to be about $80-100 cheaper, not sure if that is the case anymore though.


lol just got a ref 290.


----------



## Mahalak

I have the mention that the biggest loss in this monitor is that my Dell U2412m looks like absolute crap next to it, I always knew the AG coating on it was bad but god DAMN.


----------



## Forceman

Man, I have the worst luck with backlights. First X-star I bought had a dead spot in the corner, and now this Qnix has a dead spot in the center. It was flickering before, but would get better once it warmed up, but today just dead. Hoping I can arrange a return with storewithstory.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Ordered mine off eBay for $298 and getting shipped via DHL. Ordered it Thursday as well and checked it yesterday and said it was in Melbourne


That's good mate,mine still hasn't updated yet.still saying ''Departed Facility in INCHEON SEOUL - KOREA''....I just hope it gets updated tomorrow morning,ordered mine on thursday too from storewithstory....


----------



## MelonSplitter

Mine arrived this morning from kcci-us. Every things great so far. Looks amazing and is sittin pretty at 96hz, verified with Google Chrome browser and UFO test







. I gotta say that I think the build quality sucks, very cheap plastics and a very crooked stand, but the panel itself, Mama Mia!! It is a thing of beauty








I don't think I'll try and hit 120hz because right now I'm only rockin a GTX 570. By the way, I didn't mention that I achieved 96hz through NVCP with the Qnix file added to display in Device Manager. Easy Peezy! Thanks ToastyX and everyone else


----------



## BlauGruen

A question:

Does anybody know whether a Qnix would work with a AMD A10-5800K APU processor on a board with a DVI-D connector, theoretically? Would a 2560x1440 resolution be too much for the APU to calculate?

Thx.


----------



## PlanK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KommanderKeen*
> 
> I have followed the guide for overclocking.
> 
> 1. Patch AMD drivers
> 2. Set-up a 120hz CRU Profile (I added a 120hz part to the "detailed resolutions" window).
> 3. Reboot and open AMD CCC. Selected the "my Digital flatpanels" tab and I can see "maximum reported refresh rate 120hz".
> 
> But when I test via the frameskipping website it tells me it is still just 60hz.
> 
> Any clues?
> 
> *edit* I tried the same thing with a 96hz setting. CCC changed accordingly but the testing website still came back with 60hz. I also tried the restart program for the drivers rather than actually restarting.


You may have done this already but you also have to go to CCC => Desktop Management => Desktop Properties => choose the refresh rate from the drop-down menu.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Seems as if my monitor is in australia,hopefully i will get it either by tomorrow or monday....

Sunday, April 27, 2014 Location Time
7 Customs status updated SYDNEY - AUSTRALIA 11:21

EDIT....Also say this on my tracking page....
Quote:


> Further processing will occur as instructed by the regulatory authority. A DHL representative shall attempt to contact the importer or shipper if further information is required


Anyone else in aus ever got this with their DHL shipping,and if so was there a problem....?


----------



## Jakeey802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> That's good mate,mine still hasn't updated yet.still saying ''Departed Facility in INCHEON SEOUL - KOREA''....I just hope it gets updated tomorrow morning,ordered mine on thursday too from storewithstory....


Nice. Pretty sure it still has to go through customs though?
Anywho mines getting delievered monday now


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Nice. Pretty sure it still has to go through customs though?
> Anywho mines getting delievered monday now


Did yours clear customs already....? I'm pretty excited to get my hands on this monitor....


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quick question for anyone with the qnix 2710,whats the height and width of the monitor in inches (not including stand)....?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlauGruen*
> 
> A question:
> 
> Does anybody know whether a Qnix would work with a AMD A10-5800K APU processor on a board with a DVI-D connector, theoretically? Would a 2560x1440 resolution be too much for the APU to calculate?
> 
> Thx.


Probably not. I don't know of a single integrated graphics solution that offers dual link dvi.


----------



## 176355

Just set the Vesanius 96hz profile and it looks fantastic. It's the best color representation I've seen so far out of the 96hz profiles. Thanks dude.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Seems as if i might be getting my monitor tomorrow (fingers crossed)....

Further Detail:
Shipment has been given a release by Customs. Next Step:
Unless there is an adhoc exam or a stop by another regulatory authority the shipment will proceed to delivery
Destination Service Area: SYDNEY - SYDNEY - AUSTRALIA

[email protected] BlauGruen....From what i have read from the sellers,these monitors won't work with intergrated graphics....


----------



## Yuri_RP

Hello, anyone tried using 3 QNIX monitor for AMD Eyefinity setup?


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Did yours clear customs already....? I'm pretty excited to get my hands on this monitor....


Me too! Mine cleared customs within 2 hours LOL. It's ready for transit for my city. I'm hoping tomorrow or monday!


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Probably not. I don't know of a single integrated graphics solution that offers dual link dvi.


It depends your board. I used my qnix with my integrated i7 graphics before i got my GPU, my motherboard has a dual dvi port. I even overclocked it to 120 hertz.
@BlauGruen: check you motherboards specs if it has a dual dvi port or not, if it does then i guess it'll work.


----------



## kefan77

good people from EU, who bought from dream seller, how much did you pay customs? and what value did he declare on the box?

He replied to me that he will only undervalue the $330 monitor if sent with EMS to $70, but wants to charge extra $30 for the EMS service.

If send with Fedex, he will only declare full $330 value.

so debating what to do.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Well, My monitor has cleared Customs and is now waiting to be delivered, probably tomorrow but most likely Tuesday when i'm at work


----------



## BlauGruen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Probably not. I don't know of a single integrated graphics solution that offers dual link dvi.


The system has a MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 board which has a DVI-D link. So, it looks possible to me from the connector side but how is it from the side of punch a FM2 Trinity APU to calculate 2560x1440 resolutions?


----------



## blackhole2013

How are these monitors with gaming max settings with a gtx 780 ..


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlauGruen*
> 
> The system has a MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 board which has a DVI-D link. So, it looks possible to me from the connector side but how is it from the side of punch a FM2 Trinity APU to calculate 2560x1440 resolutions?


You aren't going to be doing much gaming, at least not at anything but low settings, but it should be able to drive the display just fine (assuming it is dual link).


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quick question for anyone with the qnix 2710,whats the height and width of the monitor in inches (not including stand)....?


approximate height and width:
H-15.5"
W-25"


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Seems as if i might be getting my monitor tomorrow (fingers crossed)....
> 
> Further Detail:
> Shipment has been given a release by Customs. Next Step:
> Unless there is an adhoc exam or a stop by another regulatory authority the shipment will proceed to delivery
> Destination Service Area: SYDNEY - SYDNEY - AUSTRALIA
> 
> [email protected] BlauGruen....From what i have read from the sellers,these monitors won't work with intergrated graphics....


They also say it won't work with a DP adaptor, but they do as long as you get the right one.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> approximate height and width:
> H-15.5"
> W-25"


Thx mate....


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlauGruen*
> 
> The system has a MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 board which has a DVI-D link. So, it looks possible to me from the connector side but how is it from the side of punch a FM2 Trinity APU to calculate 2560x1440 resolutions?


DVI-D doesn't mean dual link dvi. You actually need to make sure the motherboard supports resolutions above 1200p via dvi.

Which, fortunately for you, it does.


----------



## Xinoxide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> How are these monitors with gaming max settings with a gtx 780 ..


After I part this hydrocopper classified and 4670K together I can get some numbers on mine.


----------



## bluedevil

Trying to weigh out the options on 1440P on my 290. This 290 runs hot and the only things I can think of doing are the Red Mod on it or get a GTX 780 that runs cooler. Any thoughts?


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Trying to weigh out the options on 1440P on my 290. This 290 runs hot and the only things I can think of doing are the Red Mod on it or get a GTX 780 that runs cooler. Any thoughts?


Red Mod would be cheaper, if you aren't overclocking then you could look at an Accelero Xtreme III or IV as well.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Red Mod would be cheaper, if you aren't overclocking then you could look at an Accelero Xtreme III or IV as well.


ITX is the reason why I am contemplating this.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> ITX is the reason why I am contemplating this.


Thought that might be that case, well you could always sell it and grab a 780 or a non-ref 290, the Tri-X is quite good.

All depends if you are overclocking as well, the gigabyte cards can handle the temps really well also.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> How are these monitors with gaming max settings with a gtx 780 ..


You really don't need max AA with these monitors and their higher pixel density. I actually see no difference between 2xMSAA & 4x. With my GTX Titan at stock clocks I get 70-80fps in BF4 with Ultra settings and FXAA. But with my Titan OC to 1300mhz I get 110-120fps in BF4 with same settings.


----------



## ohone

I've just got my Qnix and was wondering about stand/frame alternatives.

Would it be possible to buy a 27" for parts dell monitor, strip the panel out and replace it with the Qnix panel? It would probably require some modification with ports etc. but there aren't any massive barriers that make this impossible, are there?

Thanks


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> You really don't need max AA with these monitors and their higher pixel density. I actually see no difference between 2xMSAA & 4x. With my GTX Titan at stock clocks I get 70-80fps in BF4 with Ultra settings and FXAA. But with my Titan OC to 1300mhz I get 110-120fps in BF4 with same settings.


hrmm takes me 3 290x's to maintain a 120 fps minimum. does it take you three titans or one?


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> hrmm takes me 3 290x's to maintain a 120 fps minimum. does it take you three titans or one?


One 780ti oc to 1300 I could stay about 110-130 fps in bf4 on the new beta driver 2 780ti its stays around 170 fps both at 1300 core everything on ultra 2x aa etc my 780 classified at 1350 core stays about 100 fps everything ultra 2x aa


----------



## Strat79

QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll Perfect Pixel and new shiny MSI GTX 780Ti GAMING 3G incoming by Wednesday. First time with anything past 1900 x 1200, seeing a non TFT and first time ever buying a flagship type GPU. I always went for the next step or two down for better value. Got a nice little bonus at work, figured I'd go all out this time. Can't wait to try them out.


----------



## trylone

Never mind this comment i was confused

Edit.


----------



## KommanderKeen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Use these timings in the picture below for your 120hz profile and use Google chrome to test UFO page and make sure Use hardware acceleration when available turned on in the chrome settings then try UFO site again


Thanks very much for those timings. I tried just adding in the 120hz value and all I got was a lot of green lines tearing the screen (110hz worked without tearing without making the additional changes you suggested). When I also included the timings you posted it worked fine. The framerate test confirms 120 frames per second.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PlanK*
> 
> You may have done this already but you also have to go to CCC => Desktop Management => Desktop Properties => choose the refresh rate from the drop-down menu.


Thanks, I had missed this bit out. I think a lot of the guides are out of date and things have moved around in CCC. Doing as you suggested got it all working for me.


----------



## KommanderKeen

I have my new Qnix screen working (at 120hz) on a six year old rig with a Gigabye HD7850 2gbDDR5 card.

I don't play any of the super strenuous games really but it is running Dota 2 perfectly happily and generally looks great.

I wanted to say this because far too many comments (here and on other sites) kept saying that a 1440p screen was not viable without the latest GFX card and crossfire.

I think this is a matter of opinion and those who make such statements are similar to audiophiles who won't listen to music on a system worth less than £10 grand - it's more about numbers, posturing and cost rather than day-to-day application in those instances.

Of course the best gear is the best - but it still works with a more budget rig too.

Thanks to this website and it's contributors for helping me choose this great monitor and all the help setting it up!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KommanderKeen*
> 
> I have my new Qnix screen working (at 120hz) on a six year old rig with a Gigabye HD7850 2gbDDR5 card.
> 
> I don't play any of the super strenuous games really but it is running Dota 2 perfectly happily and generally looks great.
> 
> I wanted to say this because far too many comments (here and on other sites) kept saying that a 1440p screen was not viable without the latest GFX card and crossfire.
> 
> *I think this is a matter of opinion and those who make such statements are similar to audiophiles who won't listen to music on a system worth less than £10 grand - it's more about numbers, posturing and cost rather than day-to-day application in those instances.*
> 
> Of course the best gear is the best - but it still works with a more budget rig too.
> 
> Thanks to this website and it's contributors for helping me choose this great monitor and all the help setting it up!


Sure it works, but you're playing DotA 2. DotA 2 maxed out @ 1440p requires a single 7970 to maintain higher FPS ~120FPS. And DotA 2 is not intensive.

And no, it's not a matter of opinion, nor is it all about numbers. That's a large claim. More intensive games do require higher-end rigs in order to reach high FPS at high details. A midrange single-GPU @ 1440p means lower details and FPS, simple.


----------



## KommanderKeen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Sure it works...


My point still stands. A lot of comments have said that high-end crossfire gear is a necessity to even consider plugging in a 1440p monitor let alone worrying about game performance after that. This is clearly not the case. The screen looks great, web browsing and films are awesome and games run smooth enough despite a much lower spec than has been suggested as a minimum requirement.

I understand that BF4 isn't going to be running at 120fps in Ultra detail on my rig but that is a different discussion about achieving perfection (much like the audiophiles analogy) not a discussion about usability.

I made my post because I want it to be known that it is still possible to benefit from a 1440p screen on a lower end rig. If I listened to a lot of the recommendations that said 1440p isn't viable on my rig then I would be the owner of a 27" 1080p TN panel that was purely just a size upgrade and nothing else.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> hrmm takes me 3 290x's to maintain a 120 fps minimum. does it take you three titans or one?


That was just one Titan. 3 Titans was for my three Qnixs at 7680x1440 setup.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KommanderKeen*
> 
> My point still stands. A lot of comments have said that high-end crossfire gear is a necessity to even consider plugging in a 1440p monitor let alone worrying about game performance after that. This is clearly not the case.


No one has ever made such statements, as far as I've read (and I've kept track of this club since June-July 2013). You have some people indeed using their 1440p displays with a MacBook or a laptop with DisplayPort output (Qnix multi-input). You have others running the monitor on a 7870XT, 7950, 7970, R9-290(X), GTX780, GTX780Ti, basically the gaming cards. I am almost certain some people out there run three of those displays for their programming or work, from a single card that just has enough inputs to do so. If members of the club give the impression that you need a high-end CrossFire rig to feed such a monitor, it's because they have gone CrossFire themselves, like to play at ~max detail, AND push ~120FPS. But they wouldn't tell someone you can't have an enjoyable experience with a single GPU. In the end, half their setup would get more than 60FPS which is pretty fine, even if one likes to play at 120FPS @ 120Hz.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> That was just one Titan. 3 Titans was for my three Qnixs at 7680x1440 setup.


So you never dip below 120 fps with one titan (overclocked) with BF4 at ultra 4xmsaa @1440p? Do you have a frame analyzer to show your frames? Because honestly I've yet to see anyone on one card get 120 fps minimum with those settings. Average maybe, but if one titan can do time above 120 fps >99% I'd honestly be surprised. Not just test island either, were talking a honest to goodness 64 person mp match. I think if you ran BF4FTA you'd be surprised what you think is a solid 120 fps isn't. Now if you just run the BF4FTA and sit on test island or stare at the sky sure, you can post an impressive benchmark (and prove me wrong) but if you do it in a big match on something like paracel and be honest with yourself you'll see. Don't take that the wrong way, I am just skeptical is all, because people always say they get 120-144fps but never post the frame time graphs to show they do. I mean tom's has a780ti with the new drivers doing 52.24 fps average at 1440p (so we are talking the titan doing over double that?)
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/nvidia-geforce-337.50-driver-benchmarks,26473.html









i understand that is a 4770k at stock clocks, so a overclocked processor would be faster, but still not 70 fps faster.

here is what mine looks like with frames locked at 130 fps, you can see the time above 120 fps is >99%, but I still have a <120 (107) although it's only there for a very very short amount of time.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yuri_RP*
> 
> Hello, anyone tried using 3 QNIX monitor for AMD Eyefinity setup?


There are several ... one that immediately comes to mind is user "iCrap" ... *[HERE]
*
Also Roland2 had an eyefinity setup w/7970 before he went green (Nvidia) ... just do an advanced search within this thread for "Eyefinity" ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KommanderKeen*
> 
> I have my new Qnix screen working (at 120hz) on a six year old rig with a Gigabye HD7850 2gbDDR5 card.
> 
> I don't play any of the super strenuous games really but it is running Dota 2 perfectly happily and generally looks great.
> 
> I wanted to say this because far too many comments (here and on other sites) kept saying that a 1440p screen was not viable without the latest GFX card and crossfire.
> 
> I think this is a matter of opinion and those who make such statements are similar to audiophiles who won't listen to music on a system worth less than £10 grand - it's more about numbers, posturing and cost rather than day-to-day application in those instances.
> 
> Of course the best gear is the best - but it still works with a more budget rig too.
> 
> Thanks to this website and it's contributors for helping me choose this great monitor and all the help setting it up!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KommanderKeen*
> 
> My point still stands. A lot of comments have said that high-end crossfire gear is a necessity to even consider plugging in a 1440p monitor let alone worrying about game performance after that. This is clearly not the case. The screen looks great, web browsing and films are awesome and games run smooth enough despite a much lower spec than has been suggested as a minimum requirement.
> 
> I understand that BF4 isn't going to be running at 120fps in Ultra detail on my rig but that is a different discussion about achieving perfection (much like the audiophiles analogy) not a discussion about usability.
> 
> I made my post because I want it to be known that it is still possible to benefit from a 1440p screen on a lower end rig. If I listened to a lot of the recommendations that said 1440p isn't viable on my rig then I would be the owner of a 27" 1080p TN panel that was purely just a size upgrade and nothing else.
Click to expand...

Welcome to OCN, your comments and opinions are appreciated ... +R








I understand where your coming from and possibly some of your comments were misunderstood?
Glad your happy with your setup as it is a monumental improvement over a 1080p TN panel at any Hz IMHO


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> So you never dip below 120 fps with one titan (overclocked) with BF4 at ultra 4xmsaa @1440p? Do you have a frame analyzer to show your frames? Because honestly I've yet to see anyone on one card get 120 fps minimum with those settings. Average maybe, but if one titan can do time above 120 fps >99% I'd honestly be surprised. Not just test island either, were talking a honest to goodness 64 person mp match. I think if you ran BF4FTA you'd be surprised what you think is a solid 120 fps isn't. Now if you just run the BF4FTA and sit on test island or stare at the sky sure, you can post an impressive benchmark (and prove me wrong) but if you do it in a big match on something like paracel and be honest with yourself you'll see. Don't take that the wrong way, I am just skeptical is all, because people always say they get 120-144fps but never post the frame time graphs to show they do. I mean tom's has a780ti with the new drivers doing 52.24 fps average at 1440p (so we are talking the titan doing over double that?


120 min fps? I wish! You must have my quotes mixed up with someone elses or mis-read my post bud. Here is my post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> You really don't need max AA with these monitors and their higher pixel density. I actually see no difference between 2xMSAA & 4x. With my GTX Titan at stock clocks I get 70-80fps in BF4 with *Ultra settings and FXAA*. But with my Titan OC to 1300mhz I get *110-120fps in BF4 with same settings*.


110-120fps being the average on 64p matches. Highs around 150fps and the lowest i have seen is around 60fps during large explosions, like when my tank blows up in 3rd person view.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

So i'll have my monitor in about an hours time, anything i should download or install prior to using it or just straight plug and play?

well......plug then play around with it and then play games


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> So i'll have my monitor in about an hours time, anything i should download or install prior to using it or just straight plug and play?
> 
> well......plug then play around with it and then play games


I would just OC to 96Hz, test out pixel test *HERE* and frame skip tester *HERE* .

Enjoy the monitor and you can do more complex configurations later on.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> I would just OC to 96Hz, test out pixel test *HERE* and frame skip tester *HERE* .
> 
> Enjoy the monitor and you can do more complex configurations later on.


Awesome, I'm not bothered if i can't hit 120hz, 96 will be plenty for me









Guess it's like any new toy, we learn as we go on


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Mine has been onboard with driver since 7:46 this morning,it's now 12:15,I hate playing this waiting game....Will post pics when /if they do deliver it today....


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Mine has been onboard with driver since 7:46 this morning,it's now 12:15,I hate playing this waiting game....Will post pics when /if they do deliver it today....


Mine shipped out from Syd yesterday at 9am, it's sitting at the P.O right now but can't collect till they open....34mins to go

(not that i'm counting or anything







)


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Mine shipped out from Syd yesterday at 9am, it's sitting at the P.O right now but can't collect till they open....34mins to go
> 
> (not that i'm counting or anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


PM set and welcome to the club Sgt Bilko


----------



## Jakeey802

woot arrived today


----------



## fredocini

I'm going to have to pick mine up from the office after work. ARGHHH… it's going to be the longest day of work ever.


----------



## Jakeey802

Unfortunately I can't get my hands on it till next Monday. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRrr


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Just arrived....


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> 
> 
> Just arrived....


How is it? I MUST KNOW lol


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> How is it? I MUST KNOW lol


Just testing now,just installed the patcher and qnix software....Going to test games to see if i have set everything correctly....


----------



## Sgt Bilko

I'm just running on mine now, very minor bleeding (i will probably never notice) and it's........just.......so....beautiful









About to install the patcher now and see whats up.

Oh, had a brief look and 98% sure it is pixel perfect


----------



## Sojrchamp

After reading up as much info this whole month.. I finally pulled the trigger from *Dream-seller* for an x-star dp2710. Very excited and will do a following post with pictures when I receive it. Thanks to everyone for all the great information you've provided.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Ummm. How do I get it off test mode again?

Manual is in Korean obviously so not much help there lol


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Guys need some help,did the monitor overclock yet in games like b4 with vsync on it is still at 60fps....What did i do wrong....? Overclock is currently 110Hz....


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Guys need some help,did the monitor overclock yet in games like b4 with vsync on it is still at 60fps....What did i do wrong....? Overclock is currently 110Hz....


Look at BF4 in-game settings. Video setting must be changed to 2560x1440 @ 110Hz. Default is 60Hz.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Ummm. How do I get it off test mode again?
> 
> Manual is in Korean obviously so not much help there lol


Ok got it sorted, full driver wipe then repatch, just need to do some colour adjustments, whites are a little yellow to me


----------



## moonkikang

Hello all.

Just wanted to say that the most recent production batch of the QX2710 Matte seems to be a lot better than what I've seen previously from QNIX.

Same design, material, bezel, etc., but looks like they spent a bit more time making sure everything was screwed on properly. Noticing a lot less bezel issues, very minimal back light issues, and also about 90% or so are dead pixel free.

To check your manufacture date, refer to the sticker on the back of the monitor. It starts with the year/month/date followed by the serial number.

For instance this recent batch is: 20140419DL####

Perhaps this information might be of use when purchasing.


----------



## lef1337

my qnix overclock just fine at 120hz with default settings but it gets abit darker at the bottom left any way to fix this?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Ok got it sorted, full driver wipe then repatch, just need to do some colour adjustments, whites are a little yellow to me


Are you enjoying this monitor as nuch as i am....


----------



## powellt177

Any idea how to actually fix the backlight bleed? My DP2710 has it pretty bad and I can't seem to really find any tutorials on it, apart from a teardown that briefly mentions it.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Are you enjoying this monitor as nuch as i am....


Ohhh Yeah


----------



## KommanderKeen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Welcome to OCN, your comments and opinions are appreciated ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I understand where your coming from and possibly some of your comments were misunderstood?
> Glad your happy with your setup as it is a monumental improvement over a 1080p TN panel at any Hz IMHO


Thanks.

I think perhaps because so many people here are clearly enthusiastic about their rig, and are willing to invest into it, that as a new reader it is easy to interpret the information as though less than grade A parts are not an alternative.

My current gfx card wasn't going to give me BF4 ultra settings regardless of the screen I chose so I think it's important just to note for other users that a 1440p screen is still a great improvement (and one that doesn't appear detrimental in-game because of the extra load on the gfx card). I'd certainly recommend getting one!

The site has been really useful and I'll definitely be making use of it when I come to upgrading Mobo/ram/cpu in the coming months.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> Just wanted to say that the most recent production batch of the QX2710 Matte seems to be a lot better than what I've seen previously from QNIX.
> 
> Same design, material, bezel, etc., but looks like they spent a bit more time making sure everything was screwed on properly. Noticing a lot less bezel issues, very minimal back light issues, and also about 90% or so are dead pixel free.
> 
> To check your manufacture date, refer to the sticker on the back of the monitor. It starts with the year/month/date followed by the serial number.
> 
> For instance this recent batch is: 20140419DL####
> 
> Perhaps this information might be of use when purchasing.


HMM. You sound like a 3rd party re-seller trying to make his stock sound pretty.


----------



## moonkikang

I am indeed a re-seller, but not really interested about making my stock pretty. All the sellers received new inventory around the 19th of April-- they're all the same batch.

Just noticed while testing monitors that the defect rate was a lot lower, and had a lot less backlight issues.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> I am indeed a re-seller, but not really interested about making my stock pretty. All the sellers received new inventory around the 19th of April-- they're all the same batch.
> 
> Just noticed while testing monitors that the defect rate was a lot lower, and had a lot less backlight issues.


Points given for telling the truth at least lol









I'm not sure of my batch number yet but i can say that mine is a great panel, no dead pixels at all and very very minor backlight issues (on spot about 2-3cm wide just right on the middle) and tbh i don't notice it.

My only complaint is that i can't get the Whites to appear as white, they still have a yellowish tinge to them but aside from that it's pretty damn perfect if i'm honest.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Update after testing with Titanfall,Metro last light and BF4,No dead pixels,no backlight bleed that i can find meaning (barely visible) and managed to get it to 110Hz overclocked (slight artifact seen on wallpapers but not in games)....

Currently have it set to 96Hz,games look awesome on this monitor and feel so different when being played....Finally have a monitor to push my 780's,will never go back to 1080p after seeing and feeling what this can do....

@ Swolern....Thx for the heads up with BF4....









@Sgt Bilko....I too have that yellowish page problem,but besides that the monitor is bloody gorgeous....


----------



## dklimitless

Pulled the trigger yesterday from green-sum. Got a glossy QNIX ^_^.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Update after testing with Titanfall,Metro last light and BF4,No dead pixels,no backlight bleed that i can find meaning (barely visible) and managed to get it to 110Hz overclocked (slight artifact seen on wallpapers but not in games)....
> 
> Currently have it set to 96Hz,games look awesome on this monitor and feel so different when being played....Finally have a monitor to push my 780's,will never go back to 1080p after seeing and feeling what this can do....
> 
> @ Swolern....Thx for the heads up with BF4....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Sgt Bilko....I too have that yellowish page problem,but besides that the monitor is bloody gorgeous....


I tried out 120hz and it's fine for games but i get some green lines appearing on the desktop.

I'll stick to 96hz for now, can run Tomb Raider on Ultimate with an avg of 100fps, BF4 on High settings avg is around 160fps and Ultra is 80fps.

haven't really tried anything else out but i'm having no issues running the Qnix at 96hz alongside a 1080p 60hz Asus panel (one HDMI, one DVI).

As for the yellow, i remember reading that these panels tend to run a bit yellowish but i'm already used to it and as you said it's too bloody gorgeous to fault.

Really impressed so far


----------



## blitzed604

Trying to get PayPal to clear my funds from my bank its taking forever! I went for the X-Star Matte version and hopefully I have as much luck as some of you guys who purchased recently. I'll post some pics when it comes in.I live by the border and have address in canada and US would it make sense to ship it to my US address and then drive it across the border. I did some research online and found that south korea and US have a trade agreement so maybe they wont tax me in any way compared to shipping it to canada, any canadians or americans shed some light on that if you got charged anything, im from British Columbia by the way if it makes a difference on province. Also i bought it for 299US converting to canadian is like $330 is that a good price?


----------



## HuwSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuwSharpe*
> 
> All this talk about ordering, tracking and delivery, i though i would just share a bit of info on the process for myself, in the UK.
> 
> After 20 days i received a letter from Parcel Force (delivery firm), saying they have a parcel for me, which will be delivered once i pay Import VAT and a Clarence Fee, totalling £35.34. To be honest i expected as much but i mention just in case anyone was not aware of these charges and looking to order such a monitor from Korea. I have paid the charges and expecting the monitor Monday, though i await somewhat nervously; will it work at all? will there be dead pixels, etc. Hopefully it will be perfect.


So my screen got delivered today and wow am i happy, the screen is perfect (as far as i can tell thus far). Been at work i first of all plugged it into my work PC, but got nothing but the colour cycling test, i confess i did panic a bit, but then connected up to a CAD machine and life! Working in IT i already have a number of screens on my desk, but adding just this one extra got some attention, so glad no one spotted dead pixels or anything, though good to be checked my so many eyes i guess. Dying to just get it home now and get gaming, likely going to be a late night for me! =)

This thread seems to be so popular, though i wonder if it would benefit from a pole, just to give people an idea of the success rate of these screens.

*Edit:* Goodbye 1920x1200, hello 2560x1440 =)


----------



## BroJin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Points given for telling the truth at least lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure of my batch number yet but i can say that mine is a great panel, no dead pixels at all and very very minor backlight issues (on spot about 2-3cm wide just right on the middle) and tbh i don't notice it.
> 
> My only complaint is that i can't get the Whites to appear as white, they still have a yellowish tinge to them but aside from that it's pretty damn perfect if i'm honest.


Try out some color profiles... You should see more improvements. Grats on purchase


----------



## darxider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> Trying to get PayPal to clear my funds from my bank its taking forever! I went for the X-Star Matte version and hopefully I have as much luck as some of you guys who purchased recently. I'll post some pics when it comes in.I live by the border and have address in canada and US would it make sense to ship it to my US address and then drive it across the border. I did some research online and found that south korea and US have a trade agreement so maybe they wont tax me in any way compared to shipping it to canada, any canadians or americans shed some light on that if you got charged anything, im from British Columbia by the way if it makes a difference on province. Also i bought it for 299US converting to canadian is like $330 is that a good price?


mine was shipped by FedEx to Quebec. i asked the eBay seller to write down the price as $200 for lower tax/customs fees. when the monitor was delivered, the FedEx driver asked me to pay the charges right away (which i did with my credit card): i was charged the regular GST/QST for goods/electronics in Quebec + $10 for "ROD FEE" (whatever that is!) by FedEx, for a total of $44. i'd say ship it to your US address, as i've heard a lot of US buyers never had to pay anything.


----------



## Waleh

Hey guys, I know you've been hearing this over and over but I can't find a concrete answer to this question or some good reviews. Will a single 780 or 290 run games on max settings (maybe without MSAA but Ultra in the case of BF4) with a monitor at this high of a resolution (1440p)? This question has been really bugging me when deciding what my new build should be like! Thanks everyone. I really want the QNIX 27"


----------



## dklimitless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waleh*
> 
> Hey guys, I know you've been hearing this over and over but I can't find a concrete answer to this question or some good reviews. Will a single 780 or 290 run games on max settings (maybe without MSAA but Ultra in the case of BF4) with a monitor at this high of a resolution (1440p)? This question has been really bugging me when deciding what my new build should be like! Thanks everyone. I really want the QNIX 27"


Depends on the game but you should be plenty with a 780/290 at 1440p (a few tests here: HardOCP or here AnandTech or TPU)

In short, unless you care about maxing out AA just for the sake of it, the 290 and 780 offer pretty good Price/Performance @1440p (you can probably get a used 290 for ~$400 given the current mining crash ).

Gonna be rocking a 280X with mine anyway


----------



## MIGhunter

Which is the monitor to buy, the 2710 or the 2710 evolution II?


----------



## the9quad

If your getting green lines try LCD reduced.


----------



## Grue

In short, unless you care about maxing out AA just for the sake of it, the 290 and 780 offer pretty good Price/Performance @1440p (you can probably get a used 290 for ~$400 given the current mining crash ).
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I just purchased a used reference R9 290 (advertised as light use in perfect condition) off EBAY for $279 w/free ship which should arrive Tuesday. There are quite a few used 290's around $300, and non-ref around $350. I've always used Nvidia cards but at these prices can't justify a 780.

I plan to get everything up and running stock and then probably add the Accelero Xtreme IV cooler.


----------



## chaoscontrol

So, after I updates the AMD drivers to the new 14.x drivers I noticed my CRU profile reset. When I try to set it again, the monitor just goes into testing.







Isnt fully recognized anymore by the computer (cant change the resolution) Anyone solved this?

EDIT: nevermind, it has been a while, needed to patch the ati pixel clock first


----------



## Shibuya

So I broke my QNIX, LCD is cracked, the outside is okay but the LCD underneath is done for.

Is it worth selling for parts/non-working? Shipping/seller fees would negate any recoup costs no?


----------



## dklimitless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grue*
> 
> In short, unless you care about maxing out AA just for the sake of it, the 290 and 780 offer pretty good Price/Performance @1440p (you can probably get a used 290 for ~$400 given the current mining crash ).
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> I just purchased a used reference R9 290 (advertised as light use in perfect condition) off EBAY for $279 w/free ship which should arrive Tuesday. There are quite a few used 290's around $300, and non-ref around $350. I've always used Nvidia cards but at these prices can't justify a 780.
> 
> I plan to get everything up and running stock and then probably add the Accelero Xtreme IV cooler.


wooww $279 is a steal! Was previously going to get the ITX version of the 760 for my rig (it is so cute!) but the crash happened and snagged the 280x for ~$200.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> Just wanted to say that the most recent production batch of the QX2710 Matte seems to be a lot better than what I've seen previously from QNIX.
> 
> Same design, material, bezel, etc., but looks like they spent a bit more time making sure everything was screwed on properly. Noticing a lot less bezel issues, very minimal back light issues, and also about 90% or so are dead pixel free.
> 
> To check your manufacture date, refer to the sticker on the back of the monitor. It starts with the year/month/date followed by the serial number.
> 
> For instance this recent batch is: 20140419DL####
> 
> Perhaps this information might be of use when purchasing.


Who was the seller ?


----------



## latexyankee

So I forget what pages I saw the info on....

Can anyone pm or link me to a specific set of timings that is known to reach 120hz? I had 110 running fine for a week but now it is starting to flicker. I'm using a 780ti and just OC'ing through NVCP.

I believe I saw some links to some different timings to try even if you were not using any patches or CRU.

Thanks


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> So I forget what pages I saw the info on....
> 
> Can anyone pm or link me to a specific set of timings that is known to reach 120hz? I had 110 running fine for a week but now it is starting to flicker. I'm using a 780ti and just OC'ing through NVCP.
> 
> I believe I saw some links to some different timings to try even if you were not using any patches or CRU.
> 
> Thanks


Try these mate they should sort you out!











Also make sure you are using the Qnix monitor driver linked below or your games will not see your custom resolutions...Below are my 96hz and 120hz ICC profiles which i calibrated at 200 cd/m which is18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI+ button for 120hz and 17 clicks up for the 96hz ICC profile...Have fun!

qnix.zip 0k .zip file


Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try these mate they should sort you out!


Thanks brother, will give it a shot!


----------



## Munkypoo7

Hey guys, just wanted to chime in, bought a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II" for $310 and the seller sent me the more input model, the DP Port model, so a free upgrade there, and upon opening the box it had a "zero dead pixel" sticker which was true







. Coming from a U2311H and wow this monitor is a beauty!

Going to see if I can push her past the stock 60Hz. Here's to hoping!

So much more screen real estate


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to chime in, bought a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II" for $310 and the seller sent me the more input model, the DP Port model, so a free upgrade there, and upon opening the box it had a "zero dead pixel" sticker which was true
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Coming from a U2311H and wow this monitor is a beauty!
> 
> Going to see if I can push her past the stock 60Hz. Here's to hoping!
> 
> So much more screen real estate


The DP port model isn't an upgrade. It skips frames when overclocking. So I hope you're happy with a 60Hz monitor.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The DP port model isn't an upgrade. It skips frames when overclocking. So I hope you're happy with a 60Hz monitor.


It would be for me.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Does anyone have any idea of how much Customs would charge when I have it delivered to North Carolina ?

I'm a few weeks away from ordering, I'm going to get my Paypal account set up, I had find a new back too.

Do I have to attach the Paypal account to a bank account, or can I somehow use my debit card ?


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The DP port model isn't an upgrade. It skips frames when overclocking. So I hope you're happy with a 60Hz monitor.


Hmm, very interesting.

Well, so far 96hz seems locked in stable, 120 is a no go (skipped blocks) so I can live with 96hz.

As far as I'm concerned it's an upgrade, it means I can hook up my MacBook via HDMI or DP instead of using my U2311H as a dedicated MacBook monitor









edit: actually it may be dropping a frame every now and then at 96, some pictures come out as they should, with boxes side by side, but every 4th or 5th has a skipped box. Interesting...


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7*
> 
> Hmm, very interesting.
> 
> Well, so far 96hz seems locked in stable, 120 is a no go (skipped blocks) so I can live with 96hz.
> 
> As far as I'm concerned it's an upgrade, it means I can hook up my MacBook via HDMI or DP instead of using my U2311H as a dedicated MacBook monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: actually it may be dropping a frame every now and then at 96, some pictures come out as they should, with boxes side by side, but every 4th or 5th has a skipped box. Interesting...


If you go to the UFO test site (Link in OP) you'll see its dropping one in 2 frames at 96Hz. The multi input's have been tested several times and shown to drop frames when overclocked above 60Hz. Several people have gotten their money back for this exact reason (false advertising). You can use a powered DP to DVI adaptor and use your Mac with a DVI only model. But to each there own, as long as your happy with what you got, that's what's important.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea of how much Customs would charge when I have it delivered to North Carolina ?
> 
> I'm a few weeks away from ordering, I'm going to get my Paypal account set up, I had find a new back too.
> 
> Do I have to attach the Paypal account to a bank account, or can I somehow use my debit card ?


US has a trade agreement with S. Korea, so no customs charges at all to the US.

As for PayPal, you would have to check there FAQ, I don't recall for sure, but think I had mine to just a credit card at first.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> If you go to the UFO test site (Link in OP) you'll see its dropping one in 2 frames at 96Hz. The multi input's have been tested several times and shown to drop frames when overclocked above 60Hz. Several people have gotten their money back for this exact reason (false advertising). You can use a powered DP to DVI adaptor and use your Mac with a DVI only model. But to each there own, as long as your happy with what you got, that's what's important.


I already have a DP cable for the monitor (MacBook to monitor), my thing was I didn't want to unplug my desktop to give my MacBook a chance to use the monitor. So for me the convenience is worth it, even if I'm capped lower than what I had hoped. My most hard core game is GW2 right now so there's no need for a higher frame rate (yet)


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Thanks brother, will give it a shot!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try these mate they should sort you out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also make sure you are using the Qnix monitor driver linked below or your games will not see your custom resolutions...Below are my 96hz and 120hz ICC profiles which i calibrated at 200 cd/m which is18 clicks up from a black screen on the BRI+ button for 120hz and 17 clicks up for the 96hz ICC profile...Have fun!
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


Thanks Lawson, still no go for 120hz but I'm back stable at 110. I appreciate it. I have a spyder 4 so I'm good on the icc profiles.

This is actually my 3rd korean, but its given me more trouble than the others. Luck of the draw I guess. Scrapped my portrait surround of VG248QE's and went back to 2 1440p koreans. 2 titans were not enough muscle to push 3 of those screens at 120fps with eye candy so I decided to go back to single display gaming.

These are still great displays for the money. I will be getting a ROG SWIFT in a few months, but these monitors should not be overlooked for the price. I've had every type of eyefinity/surround/landscape/portrait setup imaginable. From cheapo setups totaling $500 -$3000. I'm not vega, but I've copied more than a few of his builds.

Bottom line, for $300 USD.....you really cant wrong.

Edit- I should really update my rig, but it changes so fast.

Pushing 100-120fps 1440p on all modern games (not crysis and metro)
[email protected]
[email protected]


----------



## electro2u

Hello all,
I've received my first Qnix QX2710 and been really impressed--immediately ordered another. I am going to need to remove the AG film from this one as I've accidentally scratched it very lightly about 1mm across with the bottom of my stupid keyboard as I was cleaning it.







Never hurt a monitor before and it has to be my brand new damn near perfect Qnix! Fortunately the scratch is transparent at an angle so it seems to only be superficial and only to the film. Unfortunately from dead on it looks like a very thin 1mm black line. I'm hunting through this thread and have found more than I expected already (particularly from LunaP) about removing the film but I'm wondering if there isn't a step by step guide I've missed for disassembling/reassembling these specific Qnix/Xstar housings. The actual paper towel/AG removal part seems easy enough, but I'm afraid of taking the thing apart and I'm also interested in any tips anyone might have about obvious or hidden pitfalls during the process. Thanks much.

Edit: oh... yes helps to read the OP carefully. Theres a link to this guys youtube channel that will probably answer any questions I could have about disassembly.


----------



## the9quad

If you can't do 120hz try using the drop down for LCD reduced.


----------



## crone

Just got my Qnix QX2710 Matte Evo II.
I live in New Zealand, order screen Friday, picked it up Monday. I ordered from 2560x1440monitor.com for $330 USD landed.
Very impressed with screen, massive upgrade from my asus vs278q, stand is not the best but I am looking into replacement vesa mounts.
I have successfully overclocked to 96hz, was really hoping to hit 110 or 120. Anything above 104hz I start to get brownish marks (artifacting?) on some Hi res images.
I used CRU to do the overclocking, I have updated my screen driver with the Qx2710 driver and have also installed a suitable ICC color file. I have had a read through many pages in this thread but 1800+ pages is hard to get through!









*Does anyone have any recommendations as to what I can do to try get higher than 96hz? or have I reached my monitors limitations? (I have a GTX 770)*

Thanks for any input!


----------



## yasamoka

People who find their monitors yellowish by default, try my profiles:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/coyn2hldsqkzjte/Qnix%20Profiles%20%282014-03-30%29.zip

I have one of the yellowish ones. It's a visible error when compared with the calibrated display but perhaps the smallest error I have yet to see on any monitor


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crone*
> 
> Just got my Qnix QX2710 Matte Evo II.
> I live in New Zealand, order screen Friday, picked it up Monday. I ordered from 2560x1440monitor.com for $330 USD landed.
> Very impressed with screen, massive upgrade from my asus vs278q, stand is not the best but I am looking into replacement vesa mounts.
> I have successfully overclocked to 96hz, was really hoping to hit 110 or 120. Anything above 104hz I start to get brownish marks (artifacting?) on some Hi res images.
> I used CRU to do the overclocking, I have updated my screen driver with the Qx2710 driver and have also installed a suitable ICC color file. I have had a read through many pages in this thread but 1800+ pages is hard to get through!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Does anyone have any recommendations as to what I can do to try get higher than 96hz? or have I reached my monitors limitations? (I have a GTX 770)*
> 
> Thanks for any input!


Did you click add then select the LCD reduced (drop down menu)option then type in 120 for frequency? Try that


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> BTW for all the AMD card owners out there the new stable 14.4 Drivers are out today and run fantastic on my 2x R9 290 cards at 120hz!...And yes toastys new AMD patch supports the new AMD 14.4 drivers


Just installed 14.4 also.
AMD slowly bloating the software, now has "AMD Gaming Evolved" included in the software/drivers


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

The setup....


----------



## electro2u

Anyone ever notice when overclocking their monitor the video card it's connected to can't idle? My GTX 780 stays at loaded voltage, but the SLI 780 without a monitor on it still drops voltage when not loaded. As soon as I change to native res on the Nvidia Control Panel the main card goes back to idle voltage. Going to see if I can find a work around.

Edit: Oh... It's from dropping the lines too low in manual timings. Easy fix.


----------



## crone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Did you click add then select the LCD reduced (drop down menu)option then type in 120 for frequency? Try that


Hi Quad, thanks for the suggestion. I gave it a go on frequencies ranging from 103hz to 120hz and had no luck. The distortion is not as bad as I have seen in the past when I use LCD reduced but still not OK. Does this mean I have reached my monitor limits or are there are ways around these problems?

Cheers.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Ok so i managed to take most of the yellowness out and make the whites appear more white......how?

Well, i actually turned up the brightness on the monitor itself, felt kinda stupid after messing about with software for a couple of hours


----------



## yasamoka

Brig
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Ok so i managed to take most of the yellowness out and make the whites appear more white......how?
> 
> Well, i actually turned up the brightness on the monitor itself, felt kinda stupid after messing about with software for a couple of hours


Brightness does not change color accuracy appreciably. What you're seeing is the impact of higher brightness, which isn't going to remain comfortable over time, particularly at night.

Try switching between dark and bright scenes and see how your eyes go 

Try my profiles a few posts ago.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Brig
> Brightness does not change color accuracy appreciably. What you're seeing is the impact of higher brightness, which isn't going to remain comfortable over time, particularly at night.
> 
> Try switching between dark and bright scenes and see how your eyes go
> 
> Try my profiles a few posts ago.


I ended up making my own actually, didn't see yours till after, I've got it quite nice atm though, Max Blue, 85% Green and 85% Red is working quite nicely


----------



## electro2u

So I've been messing with these Korean "distributors" a little to see who's who. It's tough when you don't speak much Korean, but they usually speak English. They are really savvy and they think Westerners are dumb as rocks. Pretty much all of the eBay sellers are from the same company: BCC Korea, and they can be shady as Hell. Ask them a question they will tell you whatever you want to hear. Then you'll get whatever they feel like sending you; usually you get what you ordered. They don't seem out to get you so much as just too busy to care.

But I found a new "seedling", if you will. Gmarketmall is one of their new sellers. If you look at how they are doing this, it's pretty much the same approach as real-money-traders from MMOs. They make "bots". They had that account open since mid 2012 or something, then like a month ago they bought 8 small items for some feedback, and started selling snail cream, now they are selling monitors.

So I ordered an "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" Qnix from Gmarketmall this past Friday. I wasn't totally surprised that I did not get any feedback for paying immediately (and still haven't, though my item has been shipped). They have only 188 but 100% and I bet they are trying to keep that one from getting smashed up early. They have had lots and lots of different IDs in the past few years, and some of them are completely gone... for who knows why. Some of them, like Bigclothcraft (doesn't that sound like a RealMoneyTrader bot name???) just don't sell the monitors anymore.

At any rate this one that I ordered from literally has their paypal account set up as BCC Korea, inc. and has a customer service number listed. So I gave them a ring when they pissed me off. I specifically asked these jokers if they would ship my unit UPS. They gave me the big thumbs up, stating that UPS was already their usual carrier for US freight and it wouldn't be a problem. Monday rolled around, still no shipment, now Tuesday they have shipped it out DHL. Well. Screw that. I don't even care that much about the carrier, it's the principle. Whether they screwed up innocently or not, it seems there is this pattern with BCC Korea accounts of being shifty like that based on reading a lot of anecdotes from this thread and other threads all over the net.

Dude didn't seem surprised at all that the phone was ringing at 6:30PM Korea time, but he did seem a little surprised to be talking to an American. I would never call an individual's paypal number but a company, yep, and I know country codes and everything! I got the feeling this guy was eating dinner. He's like, "yes yes, give me your number I'll call you back tomorrow about it." Didn't realize what time it was there, but why did he answer the phone if they've already closed for the day? Are they using employee cell phone numbers for the customer service lines? They can't be, people would call at all hours of the night, maybe...... maybe I'm the only nut in the world who would do that. Anyway, I must have freaked him out because they were responding to my emails within minutes of the call, whereas I had got no response for an hour or so up to that point. They wanted to stop the DHL package and send it UPS tomorrow. To me that's like ordering soup at a restaurant where you saw the cook take a piss and not wash his hands. No thanks. I'll just overpay Ecomade Arena since they seem to have their **** together. I don't really like giving eBay and paypal little bits of my money all the time anyway. I got refunded pretty damn quick from GMarketMall, they are obviously watching that 188 close.


----------



## snorbaard

Just made an unexpected discovery!! Very pleased.

I bought a cheap HDMI to 24+5 pin DVI adapter, but I pulled out the last 4 pins to make it a 24+1 DVI connector.

I then connected it in the following manner:

QX2710 Input <-- 24+1 DVI adapter to HDMI <-- HDMI cable --> AMD 280X

1440p CONFIRMED at 60 Hz!


----------



## snapdragon

Am trying to calibrate and am a bit stuck at the following. Any help would be great.
What is the backlight to be chosen is it white LED or RGB LED?

And the other question was, I felt that viewing angle was not so great. and so that comes to my next question how does one know if the panel is a Samsung PLS panle?

This is for the Dual DVI Qnix single input model Qnix qx2710


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snapdragon*
> 
> Am trying to calibrate and am a bit stuck at the following. Any help would be great.
> What is the backlight to be chosen is it white LED or RGB LED?
> 
> And the other question was, I felt that viewing angle was not so great. and so that comes to my next question how does one know if the panel is a Samsung PLS panle?
> 
> This is for the Dual DVI Qnix single input model Qnix qx2710


White LED. Use HCFR and measure for color gamut and contrast ratio. Also, check if the panel has any yellow bleed at the edges in a dark room. Post the resulting color gamut and contrast ratio here. Be sure to name the instrument you have used as well.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> Just made an unexpected discovery!! Very pleased.
> 
> I bought a cheap HDMI to 24+5 pin DVI adapter, but I pulled out the last 4 pins to make it a 24+1 DVI connector.
> 
> I then connected it in the following manner:
> 
> QX2710 Input <-- 24+1 DVI adapter to HDMI <-- HDMI cable --> AMD 280X
> 
> 1440p CONFIRMED at 60 Hz!


Interesting. How stable is it?


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Interesting. How stable is it?


It's very stable. It immediately went into 2560x1440 @ 60 Hz without any adjustment to any settings. I've been experimenting, but thus far I haven't been able to go higher than 60 Hz on any resolution, even trying combinations that would result in much lower bandwidth than [email protected] Hz.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> It's very stable. It immediately went into 2560x1440 @ 60 Hz without any adjustment to any settings. I've been experimenting, but thus far I haven't been able to go higher than 60 Hz on any resolution, even trying combinations that would result in much lower bandwidth than [email protected] Hz.


Doubly interesting. The last person who managed to run it via HDMI - >DVI adapter only managed to run [email protected] at the very ragged edge of stability. One hertz beyond, and the monitor collapsed into a jagged pile of jumbled pixels. (I exaggerate).

I'm going to have to try my monitor again.

238mhz pixel clock is widely out of spec for a single-link DVI channel... (completely different from simple overclocking!)


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Doubly interesting. The last person who managed to run it via HDMI - >DVI adapter only managed to run [email protected] at the very ragged edge of stability. One hertz beyond, and the monitor collapsed into a jagged pile of jumbled pixels. (I exaggerate).
> 
> I'm going to have to try my monitor again.
> 
> 238mhz pixel clock is widely out of spec for a single-link DVI channel... (completely different from simple overclocking!)


What is interesting for me is that HDMI Type A only has 3 TMDS data lines as opposed to DVI-D dual link which has an additional three that provides the required bandwidth, but that it is actually still working in my case. Yes ~240 MHz pixel clock is way out of the ~165 MHz spec, but then again, running 2560x1440 @ 120 Hz requires about 470 Mhz bandwidth and that is comfortably being achieved over dual link DVI, so 470/2 = 235 MHz in single link (theoretically) which confirms why it is working. However this still does not explain why I can't go higher than 60 Hz at lower resolutions utilizing much less bandwidth. In order to test other factors I found I could easily output 1280x800 @ 120 Hz over the same HDMI cable to my DLP projector.


----------



## october414

WALL OF TEXT AHEAD.

Ok. So after 6 days of rigorous testing.........................







.......................this monitor is f*cking brilliant (sorry, I had to release that).















I'm really obsessive about minor things so I'll try to keep my experiences at a sane level.

1. Ordered from storewithstory, ultimate perfect pixel, 385$. Customs ~65€. All in all around 350€

2 - BLB/dead pixels.
Micro BLB in the left bottom corner, as well as top left/middle corner. These diminish when slightly pressing the panel on that particular area. On the right side i notice a small yellowish taint of BLB (?). Does not diminish when pressing, only increases. But I will definitely not open the panel since these are only noticeable at a black background in a completely dark environment.

However, all of these BLB's disappear when i move my head and keep my eyes lined with the area of the BLB. So is it BLB or just the angle that causes it? Curious.

No dead pixels at all.

3 - OC.
I took my Qnix from 60-96-failed120-108-110hz. However, after viewing 110hz successfully and switching back to 60hz I notice that every time i switch, the screen is displayed for a fraction of millisecond in very low brightness-dark green-hue before appearing fully normal. I'm not sure if this was the case before i tried oc'ing. What I'm basically asking: is this normal when switching between hz's and can OC'ing actually "damage" the screen when testing incompatible hz-modes?

I'm using a GTX 770. Patched my driver, installed the qnix driver and using CRU to create custom resolutions/hz and then changing the presets in nvidia's control panel. Is that correct procedure? Also, why do some use color sustainer, doesn't the ICC profiles sustain themselves in every resolution?

The Asus PB278Q ICC profile from TFTcentral is imo the best one I've tried.
Going from more than 6 years of 22 inch 1050p to a 27 inch 1440p is quite the experience







Never going back.

Very helpful and informative thread. Appreciate any help/feedback.


----------



## snapdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> White LED. Use HCFR and measure for color gamut and contrast ratio. Also, check if the panel has any yellow bleed at the edges in a dark room. Post the resulting color gamut and contrast ratio here. Be sure to name the instrument you have used as well.


I use X-Rite i1Display Pro. Am using the native software(one that came bundled with the colorimeter). What is HCFR? I think I have a light bleed. Can I get a sample of the color gamut and contrast ratio posted here


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crone*
> 
> Just got my Qnix QX2710 Matte Evo II.
> I live in New Zealand, order screen Friday, picked it up Monday. I ordered from 2560x1440monitor.com for $330 USD landed.
> Very impressed with screen, massive upgrade from my asus vs278q, stand is not the best but I am looking into replacement vesa mounts.
> I have successfully overclocked to 96hz, was really hoping to hit 110 or 120. Anything above 104hz I start to get brownish marks (artifacting?) on some Hi res images.
> I used CRU to do the overclocking, I have updated my screen driver with the Qx2710 driver and have also installed a suitable ICC color file. I have had a read through many pages in this thread but 1800+ pages is hard to get through!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Does anyone have any recommendations as to what I can do to try get higher than 96hz? or have I reached my monitors limitations? (I have a GTX 770)*
> 
> Thanks for any input!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> WALL OF TEXT AHEAD.
> 
> Ok. So after 6 days of rigorous testing.........................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .......................this monitor is f*cking brilliant (sorry, I had to release that).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really obsessive about minor things so I'll try to keep my experiences at a sane level.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Ordered from storewithstory, ultimate perfect pixel, 385$. Customs ~65€. All in all around 350€
> 
> 2 - BLB/dead pixels.
> Micro BLB in the left bottom corner, as well as top left/middle corner. These diminish when slightly pressing the panel on that particular area. On the right side i notice a small yellowish taint of BLB (?). Does not diminish when pressing, only increases. But I will definitely not open the panel since these are only noticeable at a black background in a completely dark environment.
> 
> However, all of these BLB's disappear when i move my head and keep my eyes lined with the area of the BLB. So is it BLB or just the angle that causes it? Curious.
> 
> No dead pixels at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 3 - OC.
> I took my Qnix from 60-96-failed120-108-110hz. However, after viewing 110hz successfully and switching back to 60hz I notice that every time i switch, the screen is displayed for a fraction of millisecond in very low brightness-dark green-hue before appearing fully normal. I'm not sure if this was the case before i tried oc'ing. What I'm basically asking: is this normal when switching between hz's and can OC'ing actually "damage" the screen when testing incompatible hz-modes?
> 
> I'm using a GTX 770. Patched my driver, installed the qnix driver and using CRU to create custom resolutions/hz and then changing the presets in nvidia's control panel. Is that correct procedure? Also, why do some use color sustainer, doesn't the ICC profiles sustain themselves in every resolution?
> 
> The Asus PB278Q ICC profile from TFTcentral is imo the best one I've tried.
> Going from more than 6 years of 22 inch 1050p to a 27 inch 1440p is quite the experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never going back.
> 
> Very helpful and informative thread. Appreciate any help/feedback.
Click to expand...

It is quite possible you have reached your monitors OC limit @96Hz ...








BUT you can greatly simplify things and try this, and I'll say this again *[see HERE]* ...

*"The OP desperately needs an UPDATE, especially for single Nvidia GPU's!"*

What most of us are doing now, is 1st make sure to do a "Clean" uninstall of patcher/CRU/color profiles etc ... Then update your Nvidia drivers (335 or 337beta), then just install the QNIX monitor driver, besides naming your monitor, this also allows apps (games) to see your custom resolutions. Next do all of your overclocking and timing adjustments through the Nvidia Control Panel --> "change resolution" --> "customize" --> "create custom resolution" ... that's it!

QNIX Monitor Driver (instructions inside)

QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file


If you need to tighten your timings for higher overclocks, some people do @110Hz+, for Nvidia cards it should look like this ...


TY Lawson

NOTE: I don't need to tighten my timings for 110Hz or 120Hz (483 pixel) ... got lucky!








NVCP Stock timings that allows your GPU Ram to properly downclock @ the desktop and CS-ICC should look like this ...





No more patching the driver (single GPU only), no more CRU. And it has worked great for all of us! Some of us have been able to reach 120Hz without adjusting timings (483 pixel clock) and consequently our cards ram downclocks (normally) at the desktop. Read details in my previous link, lots of good insight/links. Confirm your OC in the Windows screen resolution, run Blur Busters UFO frame dropping test and if you like run some games like BC2/BF4 and confirm your custom resolution setting in-game ie. [email protected] You could also enable Vsync, maybe lower some graphics options for higher fps (depends on the game) and verify your fps locks in @ your 96-120Hz overclock.

EDIT: Some will tell you to try a higher quality DVI cable, most have found this is hit or miss. What makes a more provable impact is the length of your cable, shorter is better. I personally use the std "green-sum" 5' cable that came with the monitor, and it works superbly! ...
So I think it has more to do with your monitor and gpu than quality of cable









EDIT2: For older 400/500 series single Nvidia GPU's or any SLI setup you WILL need the full patch for higher OC's (above 96Hz to 120Hz) because of their coded pixel clock limit ...

see ToastyX *[HERE]*

ToastyX quote ...
_If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself_.
I will add that all Nvidia SLI+ users are still using the full patch for any overclock over 60Hz, IIRC.

If you need the "Full Patch"

nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2.6.zip 80k .zip file


*Color Sustainer* *by Yasamoka*









As far as correcting the color shift with overclocking or just having a custom color profile, once again the OP should be updated with the "Color Sustainer" LINKS! Windows color management is horrible and if you don't have your own calibrator ... Many of us have found Yasamoka's program to be quite useful AND YaZ himself is here to help! Just be warned some of the older profiles (like the Asus one) need a workaround found *[HERE]*, yaz will help.

Get "Color Sustainer" and support *[HERE]
*

Interesting thread *[HERE]* and how Color Sustainer works with game profiles further proving how inadequate Windows is for color management!

Hope you get better results! Please let us know how it works out for you









EDIT: Below is a DL of my favorite "Color Sustainer" profiles ... Remember every monitor is different and there is no "Right or Wrong" color profile as it really comes down to personal preference ... Thanks to Yaz/Lawson/Watagump









FavoriteColorSustainerprofiles.zip 71k .zip file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7*
> 
> Hmm, very interesting.
> 
> Well, so far 96hz seems locked in stable, 120 is a no go (skipped blocks) so I can live with 96hz.
> 
> As far as I'm concerned it's an upgrade, it means I can hook up my MacBook via HDMI or DP instead of using my U2311H as a dedicated MacBook monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: actually it may be dropping a frame every now and then at 96, some pictures come out as they should, with boxes side by side, but every 4th or 5th has a skipped box. Interesting...


Sorry, No Go mate, your dropping frames making the OC completely ineffective







...
Plus it has pretty poor input lag/response time, not an issue if you don't game much ...



More proof *[HERE]* and *[HERE]
*
Or do an advanced search within this thread for user Tomcatv (myself).
I've been quite vocal on the "False Advertising" of the True10! AND I'm a bit ticked at TFT naming the multi-input True10 monitor the "QX2710" in their review, as it further confuses the situation with our QX2710 PLS single-input verifiable overclock monitors


----------



## TamaDrumz76

So, after not even 5 months, my Qnix died last night.

It was working fine one second and then boom the screen went black (and had like segments of flickery-ness). It was still lit-up, but a black screen... The blue LED also died out at the same time. Hitting the power button still makes the LED glow red when off though. Also, if I disconnect the DVI cable, it will still blink blue with no signal... I verified that the cable works. The monitor went poo-poo. The more I tested it, the worse it was getting. Even the back-light started cutting out after a while. Very disappointing, it was fantastic up till this point. My purchase through StoreWithStory supposedly had a 1 year warranty through them, time to see if they will actually honor it.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> So, after not even 5 months, my Qnix died last night.
> 
> It was working fine one second and then boom the screen went black (and had like segments of flickery-ness). It was still lit-up, but a black screen... The blue LED also died out at the same time. Hitting the power button still makes the LED glow red when off though. Also, if I disconnect the DVI cable, it will still blink blue with no signal... I verified that the cable works. The monitor went poo-poo. The more I tested it, the worse it was getting. Even the back-light started cutting out after a while. Very disappointing, it was fantastic up till this point. My purchase through StoreWithStory supposedly had a 1 year warranty through them, time to see if they will actually honor it.


Wow that s$cks ... haven't heard of to many failures, BUT could you also tell us ...

1) What was your OC?
1a) What was your pixel clock?
1b) Did you tighten timings? if so what were they?
2) Was it 24/7? (even at desktop?)
3) Were you using the patcher and CRU? etc?
4) Did you change gpu or overclocks?

Thanks T

EDIT: Did you try a different power block? grasping at straws here?


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Wow that s$cks ... haven't heard of to many failures, BUT could you also tell us ...
> 
> 1) What was your OC? *120 Hz*
> 1a) What was your pixel clock? *I don't remember exactly off the top of my head, but as low as I could get it without artifacts. It was around 460 if I remember correctly. Basically around 10 up from what the chip supports up to.*
> 2) Was it 24/7? (even at desktop?) *Yes, I love the feel of 120 for regular computing besides gaming.*
> 3) Were you using the patcher and CRU? etc? *Yes.*
> 4) Did you change gpu or overclocks? *Not yet, have been waiting to re-do my water-loop before OCing the 780Ti.*
> 
> Thanks T


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Plus it has pretty poor input lag/response time, not an issue if you don't game much ...
> 
> 
> 
> More proof *[HERE]* and *[HERE]
> *
> Or do an advanced search within this thread for user Tomcatv (myself).
> I've been quite vocal on the "False Advertising" of the True10!


That only applies to the True 10 model, correct ?


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> EDIT: Did you try a different power block? grasping at straws here?


No, but it seems there are no problems with the power adapter. The monitor still powers up and reacts to power button presses and whatnot... It just does not display a picture when it has signal. The back-light usually is on, but the blue LED doesn't show and there is no picture... sometimes back-light will flicker also. When DVI is not plugged in, blue LED will blink like normal, and when you shut if off, it looks like it always did.

I did notice a ticking / popping sound coming from the back of the monitor when I turn it on (also did this whenever it received signal, even at boot before bios screen so it wasn't even at 120 hz at that point). This could just be pop from the internal speakers, but something is causing the pop. The pop got louder after the monitor crapped out on me.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> That only applies to the True 10 model, correct ?


Correct ... In my earlier rantings, I wished TFT would have distinguished our model more clearly from the True10.
They name the True10 multi-input "QX2710" in their review, and it is obviously misleading like in the graph above








If you don't read the whole review you might think that is our PLS/single-input monitor in the graph











EDIT: Shout OUT to "kevinsbane" ... you also predicted this confusing mess way back when ...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> No, but it seems there are no problems with the power adapter. The monitor still powers up and reacts to power button presses and whatnot... It just does not display a picture when it has signal. The back-light usually is on, but the blue LED doesn't show and there is no picture... sometimes back-light will flicker also. When DVI is not plugged in, blue LED will blink like normal, and when you shut if off, it looks like it always did.
> 
> I did notice a ticking / popping sound coming from the back of the monitor when I turn it on (also did this whenever it received signal, even at boot before bios screen so it wasn't even at 120 hz at that point). This could just be pop from the internal speakers, but something is causing the pop. The pop got louder after the monitor crapped out on me.


Thanks for the info, I also like 120Hz in windows apps ... +R
I'm stumped unless you want to start replacing components ... maybe cheaper than shipping it back?
Maybe storewithstory can troubleshoot and send you what part they deem necessary, for free of course? Otherwise ...
Lets hope storewithstory takes care of you, they are IMO one of the more reputable re-sellers ...
Hmm, they pay for return shipping ... maybe? But I bet you could negotiate at least splitting the charges with you, or maybe get the same rates they ship out with?


----------



## fredocini

Man, i'm so envious of you guys right now… I'm still waiting for my damn monitor. Tracking with Canada Post and it's been "in transit" for the last couple of days… No estimated delivery date either.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Man, i'm so envious of you guys right now&#8230; I'm still waiting for my damn monitor. Tracking with Canada Post and it's been "in transit" for the last couple of days&#8230; No estimated delivery date either.


Who's the courier....?


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Who's the courier....?


i think its canada post? there wasn't anything specific. only thing the seller gave me was the tracking site and number, which happens to also work with the canada post tracking system lol

EDIT: Nvm it is Canada Post. the "in transit" bar still hasn't moved for two days.


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> i think its canada post? there wasn't anything specific. only thing the seller gave me was the tracking site and number, which happens to also work with the canada post tracking system lol
> 
> EDIT: Nvm it is Canada Post. the "in transit" bar still hasn't moved for two days.


Canada Post? Thats a good sign, you probably wont get customs.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> Canada Post? Thats a good sign, you probably wont get customs.


i didn't think so either lol. it spend only 2 hours at the customs office&#8230;. right now its still "in transit" from Richmond, BC to its final processing where I live. But it hasn't moved since the 27th.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Less than one month until I can buy this display.

Dance.gif


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> So, after not even 5 months, my Qnix died last night.
> 
> It was working fine one second and then boom the screen went black (and had like segments of flickery-ness). It was still lit-up, but a black screen... The blue LED also died out at the same time. Hitting the power button still makes the LED glow red when off though. Also, if I disconnect the DVI cable, it will still blink blue with no signal... I verified that the cable works. The monitor went poo-poo. The more I tested it, the worse it was getting. Even the back-light started cutting out after a while. Very disappointing, it was fantastic up till this point. My purchase through StoreWithStory supposedly had a 1 year warranty through them, time to see if they will actually honor it.


Hmm i am thinking that this could be that your power brick is dying or is indeed dead?....My Korean supplied power brick used to get very warm/hot so replaced it with a CWT 12V 5A 60W Power Supply (P/N:CAD060121) in the link below!...
It is far better made than the shipped Korean power brick and is made by CWT which is the OEM Corsair PSU maker!... It is a quality power brick and runs a lot cooler!...Also you can be rest assured that your panel is receiving the correct clean voltage using this!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-CWT-12V-5A-60W-Power-Supply-P-N-CAD060121-For-TVs-/390276288001?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item5ade478e01


----------



## Enfeeble

Had my QNIX 2710 for two days and I love it! The difference between the QNIX and my old monitor is immensely different. I ordered the perfect pixel model from dream-seller. And it arrived with no dead pixels and no BLB (maybe i can't notice it but I am pretty sure). Ordered on Wednesday April 23, arrived Monday the 28th.


----------



## crone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Did you click add then select the LCD reduced (drop down menu)option then type in 120 for frequency? Try that


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> It is quite possible you have reached your monitors OC limit @96Hz ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT you can greatly simplify things and try this, and I'll say this again [see HERE] ...
> 
> *"The OP desperately needs an UPDATE, especially for single Nvidia GPU's!"*
> 
> What most of us are doing now, is 1st make sure to do a "Clean" uninstall of patcher/CRU/color profiles etc ... Then update your Nvidia drivers (335 or 337beta), then just install the QNIX monitor driver, besides naming your monitor, this also allows apps (games) to see your custom resolutions. Next do all of your overclocking and timing adjustments through the Nvidia Control Panel --> "change resolution" --> "customize" --> "create custom resolution" ... that's it!
> 
> QNIX Monitor Driver (instructions inside)
> 
> QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file
> 
> 
> If you need to tighten your timings for higher overclocks, most people do @110Hz+, for Nvidia cards it should look like this ...
> 
> 
> TY Lawson
> 
> No more patching the driver (single GPU only), no more CRU. And it has worked great for all of us! Some of us have been able to reach 120Hz without adjusting timings (483 pixel clock) and consequently our cards ram downclocks (normally) at the desktop. Read details in my previous link, lots of good insight/links. Confirm your OC in the Windows screen resolution, run Blur Busters UFO frame dropping test and if you like run some games like BC2/BF4 and confirm your custom resolution setting in-game ie. [email protected] You could also enable Vsync, maybe lower some graphics options for higher fps (depends on the game) and verify your fps locks in @ your 96-120Hz overclock.
> 
> EDIT: Some will tell you to try a higher quality DVI cable, most have found this is hit or miss. What makes a more provable impact is the length of your cable, shorter is better. I personally use the std "green-sum" 5' cable that came with the monitor, and it works superbly! ...
> So I think it has more to do with your monitor and gpu than quality of cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as correcting the color shift with overclocking or just having a custom color profile, once again the OP should be updated with the "Color Sustainer" LINKS! Windows color management is horrible and if you don't have your own calibrator ... Many of us have found Yasamoka's program to be quite useful AND YaZ himself is here to help! Just be warned some of the older profiles (like the Asus one) need a workaround found HERE, yaz will help.
> 
> Get "Color Sustainer" and support *[HERE]
> *
> 
> Interesting thread *[HERE]* and how Color Sustainer works with game profiles further proving how inadequate Windows is for color management!
> 
> Hope you get better results! Please let us know how it works out for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Below is a DL of my favorite "Color Sustainer" profiles ... Thanks to Yaz/Lawson/Watagump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FavoriteColorSustainerprofiles.zip 71k .zip file
> 
> Sorry, No Go mate, your dropping frames making the OC completely ineffective
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Plus it has pretty poor input lag/response time, not an issue if you don't game much ...
> 
> 
> 
> More proof *[HERE]* and *[HERE]
> *
> Or do an advanced search within this thread for user Tomcatv (myself).
> I've been quite vocal on the "False Advertising" of the True10! AND I'm a bit ticked at TFT naming the multi-input True10 monitor the "QX2710" in their review, as it further confuses the situation with our QX2710 PLS single-input verifiable overclock monitors


Thanks for the post, I will try you recommendations. +rep


----------



## nadoxq8

so i have just got my qnix 2710 and there is no dead pixel nor bleeding at all, is that normal ?


----------



## Ronalddus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> So, after not even 5 months, my Qnix died last night.
> 
> It was working fine one second and then boom the screen went black (and had like segments of flickery-ness). It was still lit-up, but a black screen... The blue LED also died out at the same time. Hitting the power button still makes the LED glow red when off though. Also, if I disconnect the DVI cable, it will still blink blue with no signal... I verified that the cable works. The monitor went poo-poo. The more I tested it, the worse it was getting. Even the back-light started cutting out after a while. Very disappointing, it was fantastic up till this point. My purchase through StoreWithStory supposedly had a 1 year warranty through them, time to see if they will actually honor it.


I heard another dude with about the same problem that he could run it in SAFE mode and set its monitor back to 60Hz.
After that everything was working again.

Just another thing you could try, hope this helps


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nadoxq8*
> 
> so i have just got my qnix 2710 and there is no dead pixel nor bleeding at all, is that normal ?


Maybe not quite normal, but also not unusual.


----------



## ZURPLE

Thanks everybody! Finally got mine today, and I just tested it for about 5 minutes now, but I am already stocked.

Got it to overclock to 110 Hz, thanks to TomcatV for his manual. (Made the UFO Test. Overlocking to 120 Hz and I get a bunch of ugly green lines)

No dead pixel (so far?) and no BLB - it just looks fascinating. Really astonished that I had so much luck. Dark Souls II and SMITE look brilliant so far.

Seller was storewithstory. Send the same day I paid for it, was there the next day. However it got stuck it customs, cause the declared value was $90. Customs didn't like that.
Had to pay 43€ ($70) fee. Other than that really satisfied with the store. Good packaging.

However two things that bother me: The case is really cheap and not completely fitted to the panel. Looks weird, but it's okay.
But what really bothers me is the stand. It's completely crooked and I don't have money right now to buy a new one, so I have to wait until next month *sigh*

Edit: Okay, I do have to seem a small problem: Games don't see the overclocked 110 Hz. It's in the Nvidia Control Panel and UFO Test confirms it. But all games cap at 60 Hz.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZURPLE*
> 
> Thanks everybody! Finally got mine today, and I just tested it for about 5 minutes now, but I am already stocked.
> 
> Got it to overclock to 110 Hz, thanks to TomcatV for his manual. (Made the UFO Test. Overlocking to 120 Hz and I get a bunch of ugly green lines)
> 
> No dead pixel (so far?) and no BLB - it just looks fascinating. Really astonished that I had so much luck. Dark Souls II and SMITE look brilliant so far.
> 
> Seller was storewithstory. Send the same day I paid for it, was there the next day. However it got stuck it customs, cause the declared value was $90. Customs didn't like that.
> Had to pay 43€ ($70) fee. Other than that really satisfied with the store. Good packaging.
> 
> However two things that bother me: The case is really cheap and not completely fitted to the panel. Looks weird, but it's okay.
> But what really bothers me is the stand. It's completely crooked and I don't have money right now to buy a new one, so I have to wait until next month *sigh*
> 
> Edit: Okay, I do have to seem a small problem: Games don't see the overclocked 110 Hz. It's in the Nvidia Control Panel and UFO Test confirms it. But all games cap at 60 Hz.


Welcome to the forum. Did you install the QNIX driver? Also, did you check frame rate settings in the game?


----------



## ZURPLE

Yes, did everything like TomcatV said to do in his post. Installed the driver, tested 96 Hz, worked, tested 110 Hz, worked, tested 120 Hz, getting green lines and went back to 110 Hz.

I did check frame rate settings in the games were its possible and I can't put anything higher than 60. In some you can put unlimited, so I did that put Fraps shows me that all games seem to cap at 60 fps atm.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZURPLE*
> 
> Yes, did everything like TomcatV said to do in his post. Installed the driver, tested 96 Hz, worked, tested 110 Hz, worked, tested 120 Hz, getting green lines and went back to 110 Hz.
> 
> I did check frame rate settings in the games were its possible and I can't put anything higher than 60. In some you can put unlimited, so I did that put Fraps shows me that all games seem to cap at 60 fps atm.


Ok, I assume you restarted your computer and still have the issue? What GPU are you using?


----------



## ZURPLE

Yes. I got a GTX 780 Ti. Just tested out BF 4 btw, there it did indeed work. I got around 100 FPS.








Have to figure out what the other games is bothering. Thanks for your help!


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZURPLE*
> 
> Yes. I got a GTX 780 Ti. Just tested out BF 4 btw, there it did indeed work. I got around 100 FPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to figure out what the other games is bothering. Thanks for your help!


Not that I helped any, but thanks


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZURPLE*
> 
> Yes. I got a GTX 780 Ti. Just tested out BF 4 btw, there it did indeed work. I got around 100 FPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to figure out what the other games is bothering. Thanks for your help!


And your welcome


----------



## MelonSplitter

Are there any icc profiles that have deeper blacks with more vibrant colors?


----------



## razerbwfc

I'd like to say many thanks to all the contributors to this thread.

I've been thinking of getting one of these monitors for a while and have been reading through this thread over the last week or so. It's a mine of useful information.

I finally caved in and got one though Storewithstory off Ebay. Ordered it on Sunday night and it arrived today, ridiculously quick. I've ordered stuff from within the UK that's taken longer than that to arrive! Only paid £22 in customs charges as well.

Very impressed with it. No dead pixels and no noticeable back light bleed. Got it running at 120Hz without any hitches so far and it seems mahoosive compared to my old 23" monitor. Not in work now until next Tuesday so time for some serious gaming methinks


----------



## Cyalume

After owning this monitor for a month or two, I've discovered that I'm extremely sensitive to PWM. It makes my eyes hurt. Does turning the monitor up to full brightness completely disable PWM? If so, are there any good software dimming applications to use to reduce brightness without triggering PWM?


----------



## Darkmader

Not that 120 was a big deal for me as 96 is just fine but I ordered the good DVI-D cable from monoprice and it didn't make a difference but I needed to pick up some other cables anyways. 120 still is green and even using Lawson's setup I couldn't hit it either. Maybe there is something about Qnix a tad better for 120 than the x-star but I don't know if we have a big enough sample size with probably 20x more Qnix guys vs X-star even though it's the same. The blacklight bleed is better for me now for some reason. Maybe it's the cable/break-in or my eyes adjusted to it, so looks like I'm set and just enjoying the monitor.

I tried most of the color profiles and nailed the 60/96 for what works best for me.

60: Qnix Qx2710 60Hz.icm
96: Qnix96hzsRGB.icm


----------



## Cyalume

Waiting on the ROG to come out. Are the viewing angles better on it than on this monitor? Again, can't live with PWM.


----------



## DeathAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> Waiting on the ROG to come out. Are the viewing angles better on it than on this monitor? Again, can't live with PWM.


Nope, it's a TN panel and those are very susceptible to color shift. I owned a 24" TN monitor from HP and even looking at it from dead center, the colors at the top very darker than at the bottom. 27" will suffer even more than that, unless you move it a good deal away, but that is not so easy when you are using it as a computer monitor (as opposed to a gaming/movie TV).
Quote:


> Does turning the monitor up to full brightness completely disable PWM?


PWM is never completely off in a PWM monitor, the frequency just gets higher which results in fewer people noticing it. I only notice PWM flickering on the lowest setting. I have it 4 clicks above the lowest and no issues. You can put the monitor to a brightness where you don't notice the flickering anymore and then reduce luminance through your video card driver. IQ will suffer, but your headaches and eye strain should be gone. If you just have eye pains, you can also try and observe how often you blink when looking at the screen and use eye drops to provide moisture for your eyes if you don't blink enough.

If you are handy with tools, you can try to lower the backlight intensity by soldering a resistor to the PCB. It's been done by someone here in the thread I believe.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeathAngel*
> 
> Nope, it's a TN panel and those are very susceptible to color shift. I owned a 24" TN monitor from HP and even looking at it from dead center, the colors at the top very darker than at the bottom. 27" will suffer even more than that, unless you move it a good deal away, but that is not so easy when you are using it as a computer monitor (as opposed to a gaming/movie TV).
> PWM is never completely off in a PWM monitor, the frequency just gets higher which results in fewer people noticing it. I only notice PWM flickering on the lowest setting. I have it 4 clicks above the lowest and no issues. You can put the monitor to a brightness where you don't notice the flickering anymore and then reduce luminance through your video card driver. IQ will suffer, but your headaches and eye strain should be gone. If you just have eye pains, you can also try and observe how often you blink when looking at the screen and use eye drops to provide moisture for your eyes if you don't blink enough.
> 
> If you are handy with tools, you can try to lower the backlight intensity by soldering a resistor to the PCB. It's been done by someone here in the thread I believe.


No, PWM gets turned off in the vast majority of monitors when brightness is maxed. I've only seen one example where that is not the case. You use PWM to lower the perceived brightness by using the same voltage and current in a duty cycle.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

To my understanding According to reviews there are no PWM issue with the Qnix, now this worries me.


----------



## DeathAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No, PWM gets turned off in the vast majority of monitors when brightness is maxed. I've only seen one example where that is not the case.


TFTCentral article about PWM shows the 2008 MacBook Pro which has PWM active at 100% brightness. Prad.de Test of the NEC PA272W-BK states it has PWM active at 100% brightness. Same with Iiyama ProLite XB2779QS-S1. The Samsung S27A850D has PWM active as well. Though the other 9 I picked out had no PWM active at full brightness.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> To my understanding According to reviews there are no PWM issue with the Qnix, now this worries me.


NCX review measured that the monitor didn't have PWM, but I think the russian review said it had PWM.


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> It is quite possible you have reached your monitors OC limit @96Hz ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT you can greatly simplify things and try this, and I'll say this again [see HERE] ...
> 
> *"The OP desperately needs an UPDATE, especially for single Nvidia GPU's!"*
> 
> What most of us are doing now, is 1st make sure to do a "Clean" uninstall of patcher/CRU/color profiles etc ... Then update your Nvidia drivers (335 or 337beta), then just install the QNIX monitor driver, besides naming your monitor, this also allows apps (games) to see your custom resolutions. Next do all of your overclocking and timing adjustments through the Nvidia Control Panel --> "change resolution" --> "customize" --> "create custom resolution" ... that's it!
> 
> QNIX Monitor Driver (instructions inside)
> 
> QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file
> 
> 
> If you need to tighten your timings for higher overclocks, most people do @110Hz+, for Nvidia cards it should look like this ...
> 
> 
> TY Lawson
> 
> No more patching the driver (single GPU only), no more CRU. And it has worked great for all of us! Some of us have been able to reach 120Hz without adjusting timings (483 pixel clock) and consequently our cards ram downclocks (normally) at the desktop. Read details in my previous link, lots of good insight/links. Confirm your OC in the Windows screen resolution, run Blur Busters UFO frame dropping test and if you like run some games like BC2/BF4 and confirm your custom resolution setting in-game ie. [email protected] You could also enable Vsync, maybe lower some graphics options for higher fps (depends on the game) and verify your fps locks in @ your 96-120Hz overclock.
> 
> EDIT: Some will tell you to try a higher quality DVI cable, most have found this is hit or miss. What makes a more provable impact is the length of your cable, shorter is better. I personally use the std "green-sum" 5' cable that came with the monitor, and it works superbly! ...
> So I think it has more to do with your monitor and gpu than quality of cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as correcting the color shift with overclocking or just having a custom color profile, once again the OP should be updated with the "Color Sustainer" LINKS! Windows color management is horrible and if you don't have your own calibrator ... Many of us have found Yasamoka's program to be quite useful AND YaZ himself is here to help! Just be warned some of the older profiles (like the Asus one) need a workaround found HERE, yaz will help.
> 
> Get "Color Sustainer" and support *[HERE]
> *
> 
> Interesting thread *[HERE]* and how Color Sustainer works with game profiles further proving how inadequate Windows is for color management!
> 
> Hope you get better results! Please let us know how it works out for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Below is a DL of my favorite "Color Sustainer" profiles ... Thanks to Yaz/Lawson/Watagump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FavoriteColorSustainerprofiles.zip 71k .zip file


Thank you for taking the time replying and writing that. Repped









I've unpatched my driver, resetted cru. As I already have Nvidia's latest official driver and qnix driver installed, i didn't update them. When you said delete any color profiles.. I've only used windows own color management so far so I guess all that's left is installing Color Sustainer and OC from NVCP?

I agree that the OP needs an update, as like myself don't have the time to go through all pages and automatically assume the OP is the reference.


----------



## Gualichu04

I bought the qnix evolution II from ebay and i hate the stand. Also which would be a better stand the mono price one here or the hp one here I do need a profile for the monitor also since the colors are hard to tell if they are right or not. If anything i will adjust them according to my eyes and call that good enough.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> I bought the qnix evolution II from ebay and i hate the stand. What is the easiest way to remove the stock stand? Also which would be a better stand the mono price one here or the hp one here I do need a profile for the monitor also since the colors are hard to tell if they are right or not. If anything i will adjust them according to my eyes and call that good enough.


You're going to have to take off the bezel, which is a pain. I don't know about stand preference, I'm fine with the stock at the moment. And you can use the color profiles here, they're pretty good. I simply overclocked my monitor to 96hz, downloaded some profiles at that refresh rate, and tested to see which one was best from my tests.


----------



## Enilder

I am about the buy this monitor (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e) and wondering if I need a transformer. I am from US and don't have a transformer at the moment.

Also, is there a go-to seller for this monitor? It seems like he has a good feedback overall. The first page table isn't up-to-date so it's difficult to tell if the seller's reputation is as good as what I can see on ebay.

I am not sure if I want to pay extras for perfect pixel since they don't guarantee that you will get perfect pixel (you can have up to 5 deadpixels).

Any help will be appreciated!


----------



## Darkmader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enilder*
> 
> I am about the buy this monitor (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e) and wondering if I need a transformer. I am from US and don't have a transformer at the moment.
> 
> Also, is there a go-to seller for this monitor? It seems like he has a good feedback overall. The first page table isn't up-to-date so it's difficult to tell if the seller's reputation is as good as what I can see on ebay.
> 
> I am not sure if I want to pay extras for perfect pixel since they don't guarantee that you will get perfect pixel (you can have up to 5 deadpixels).
> 
> Any help will be appreciated!


I'm in the US and got it from Dreamseller. No you don't need a transformer as it comes with an adapter that you plug into the monitor and then you use a cable for power which both are provided. Mine came with no dead pixels (didn't do the pixel perfect either) and minor BLB that seems to be gone now and don't even notice. Dreamseller has crazy fast shipping too, took 4 days to get here when I ordered it.

I should add that he will send you an e-mail asking where you found out about him and the monitor. I responded and said here due to your reputation, I said I'm hoping for the best and no dead pixels and BLB. He said thanks and he'll let his tech guy know and send me a good one. I don't know if that's the case at all, but I think he'd rather send good panels to this site than your random Joe as this is the place to go when it comes to the hardcores and doesn't want to affect his reputation.


----------



## Enilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> I'm in the US and got it from Dreamseller. No you don't need a transformer as it comes with an adapter that you plug into the monitor and then you use a cable for power which both are provided. Mine came with no dead pixels (didn't do the pixel perfect either) and minor BLB that seems to be gone now and don't even notice. Dreamseller has crazy fast shipping too, took 4 days to get here when I ordered it.
> 
> I should add that he will send you an e-mail asking where you found out about him and the monitor. I responded and said here due to your reputation, I said I'm hoping for the best and no dead pixels and BLB. He said thanks and he'll let his tech guy know and send me a good one. I don't know if that's the case at all, but I think he'd rather send good panels to this site than your random Joe as this is the place to go when it comes to the hardcores and doesn't want to affect his reputation.


Thanks for confirming. I just placed an order!







I hope I get lucky too! Are you on east coast or west coast? I am on east coast so I am guessing it will take longer.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> You're going to have to take off the bezel, which is a pain. I don't know about stand preference, I'm fine with the stock at the moment. And you can use the color profiles here, they're pretty good. I simply overclocked my monitor to 96hz, downloaded some profiles at that refresh rate, and tested to see which one was best from my tests.


Only overclock i can get is 90hz on my gtx 480 maybe the r9 290x will get better. but i am only using the nvida control panel with a custom resolution. I find the stock stand to wobbly and it annoys me. I type and it wobbles.


----------



## Grue

I received my R9 290 off Ebay today, uninstalled all the Nvidia stuff (including registry), Installed the latest Catalyst (14.4), the ATI pixel clock patcher, and CRU. The best stable OC I can get is still 88hz (same as I was getting with my GTX570). Over 90hz I get like an inch wide vertical band that intermittently shows up on the right side of the display (seems to only show up on certain grayish colored backgrounds). at 110hz or more it gets pretty messy all over.

Is it just luck of the draw, and I happen to have a monitor that shows artifacts over 88hz no matter how powerful the card?

I was really hoping to get at least 96 with such a substantial upgrade in the video card.

Is there some manual setting (pixel clock maybe) I'm missing in CRU? I've only been adjusting the refresh rate and leaving the other settings default. I really don't want to OC my video card until I add a better cooler as it's a reference model (Saphire).

Any help appreciated.

Cheers


----------



## Forceman

Have you tried using the reduced LCD timings in CRU? Post a screenshot of your CRU settings so we can see what you are using, and maybe someone can suggest better timings.


----------



## Grue

Sure, here's my settings: 

The default values remain the same whether I choose manual, LCD standard, or LCD reduced. I have only adjusted the refresh rate.

I am also finding out through GPU-Z that my AsRock Z77 Extreme 4 mobo is not seeing my new PCI EX 3.0 card at 3.0 (it is in the 3.0 slot). It shows 2.0 in sysinfo, and 2.0, then drops to 1.1 in GPU-Z with render test. I've emailed support at AsRock but I feel I may be on the hook for a mobo upgrade soon...

I'm probably fighting an uphill battle trying to OC my monitor in CRU until I get this PCI Express 3.0 issue resolved. I'm still interested in hearing of potentially better settings than I'm using (just assume 3.0 is working as it will be soon enough







)


----------



## fredocini

WOOT! got my monitor delivered this morning! gorgeous product, no dead pixels and little to none backlight bleed! this is my first experience with 1440p and its amazing.

so far i have oc'ed my monitor to 96hz stable using the NVCP. tried 110 and 120 but i get the green lines. i dont mind sticking with 96hz thouigh, unless theres another way to increase the oc.

my main concern although, is that windows 8.1 will not allow me to install the qnix 2710 driver. it says "The third-party INF does not contain digital signature information" and will not allow me to install it... are there specific instructions i should follow?


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> WOOT! got my monitor delivered this morning! gorgeous product, no dead pixels and little to none backlight bleed! this is my first experience with 1440p and its amazing.
> 
> so far i have oc'ed my monitor to 96hz stable using the NVCP. tried 110 and 120 but i get the green lines. i dont mind sticking with 96hz thouigh, unless theres another way to increase the oc.
> 
> my main concern although, is that windows 8.1 will not allow me to install the qnix 2710 driver. it says "The third-party INF does not contain digital signature information" and will not allow me to install it... are there specific instructions i should follow?


Hey.

You need to disable Driver Signature Verification in order to install the Qnix driver in Windows 8. Follow this link http://www.howtogeek.com/167723/how-to-disable-driver-signature-verification-on-64-bit-windows-8.1-so-that-you-can-install-unsigned-drivers/.

After you've rebooted, proceed with installing the driver


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> Hey.
> 
> You need to disable Driver Signature Verification in order to install the Qnix driver in Windows 8. Follow this link http://www.howtogeek.com/167723/how-to-disable-driver-signature-verification-on-64-bit-windows-8.1-so-that-you-can-install-unsigned-drivers/.
> 
> After you've rebooted, proceed with installing the driver


+1 Thank you!

btw, is it possible to "increase" an OC with the qnix monitor? seems to lose stability at 108hz


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> +1 Thank you!
> 
> btw, is it possible to "increase" an OC with the qnix monitor? seems to lose stability at 108hz


Np









There is a possibility you can improve your OC by adjusting the manual timings. If you are using a single Nvidia card like me, try out Lawson's configuration as it seems to work for most people.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> If you need to tighten your timings for higher overclocks, most people do @110Hz+, for Nvidia cards it should look like this ...
> 
> 
> TY Lawson


EDIT
Pic didn't resize.


----------



## fredocini

Okay, that sounds good. im just hoping it won't affect color too much. if anything i can prolly just download an ICC color profile for 120hz


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *october414*
> 
> Np
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a possibility you can improve your OC by adjusting the manual timings. If you are using a single Nvidia card like me, try out Lawson's configuration as it seems to work for most people.
> EDIT
> Pic didn't resize.


EDIT: just tried it, still get the green lines. maybe if i change my dvi cable? im not desperate for 120... i am very satisfied with 96hz. i just wanna see if i can hit the 120


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Okay, that sounds good. im just hoping it won't affect color too much. if anything i can prolly just download an ICC color profile for 120hz


That's true.

Check out the first page's OP, it has a compilation of several ICC's from this thread. You'll find that most include a 120hz profile as well


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> EDIT: just tried it, still get the green lines. maybe if i change my dvi cable? im not desperate for 120... i am very satisfied with 96hz. i just wanna see if i can hit the 120


I believe i read somewhere that some say a shorter cable makes more of a difference than the quality of the cable?

Maybe Lawson or TomcatV can help you out more regarding OC workarounds.

I hit 110hz, 120hz gave me the green lines as well







I will stay at 96hz, I'm more than satisfied as well. Really pleased.


----------



## ZURPLE

After a night of testing, gaming, watching stuff and tweaking the settings I can say:

Best monitor I ever had. I am still using my ASUS VG278HE as a second monitor, but the sharpness, contrast and color are the tits on the QNIX Samsung Panel. Paid 230€ for the QNIX and 350€ for the ASUS a year ago. If I only had known, I know would have two QNIX.

Anyway. Still no dead pixels, no BLB whatsoever (I think I got a golden egg) and OC'd to 110 Hz without any losses or errors.

This monitor is awesome <3


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZURPLE*
> 
> After a night of testing, gaming, watching stuff and tweaking the settings I can say:
> 
> Best monitor I ever had. I am still using my ASUS VG278HE as a second monitor, but the sharpness, contrast and color are the tits on the QNIX Samsung Panel. Paid 230€ for the QNIX and 350€ for the ASUS a year ago. If I only had known, I know would have two QNIX.
> 
> Anyway. Still no dead pixels, no BLB whatsoever (I think I got a golden egg) and OC'd to 110 Hz without any losses or errors.
> 
> This monitor is awesome <3


Mine is the same way but it's at 120hz!


----------



## ZURPLE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OutlawII*
> 
> Mine is the same way but it's at 120hz!


Do you wanna make me jealous? Well it's not working!

Well, okay, maybe a little


----------



## phygar

Do the qnix drivers work with xstar monitors? Everyone says the only difference is the bezel, but is that really true?


----------



## Cyalume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> To my understanding According to reviews there are no PWM issue with the Qnix, now this worries me.


The QNIX2710LED uses PWM, I can confirm. At near-lowest brightness settings, the flicker is very noticeable. In all other brightness settings other than max, you can see vertical bars moving left to right across the screen by pointing your phone camera at it and focusing in on the screen (this is a result of PWM). But must troubling of all is that I never knew about PWM until I purchased this monitor and noticed that my eyes were beginning to hurt. Like, the muscles in them had been worked to the bones. The higher the (hardware) brightness is, the less the effect, but I'm not sure that it ever goes away completely. I still have a tiny bit of eyestrain at max with software dimming enabled, though not anywhere near hardware dimming levels.


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> Just made an unexpected discovery!! Very pleased.
> 
> I bought a cheap HDMI to 24+5 pin DVI adapter, but I pulled out the last 4 pins to make it a 24+1 DVI connector.
> 
> I then connected it in the following manner:
> 
> QX2710 Input <-- 24+1 DVI adapter to HDMI <-- HDMI cable --> AMD 280X
> 
> 1440p CONFIRMED at 60 Hz!


No success yet on a Lenovo Y510p which has GT 750M and supposedly HDMI 1.4b (according to hardware manual). Nvidia control panel detects monitor but I cannot enable it. Any ideas?


----------



## Gualichu04

Where do i get the Qnix drivers and do they make a difference at all for overclocking ect.?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZURPLE*
> 
> Yes. I got a GTX 780 Ti. Just tested out BF 4 btw, there it did indeed work. I got around 100 FPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to figure out what the other games is bothering. Thanks for your help!


Figuring out which games see your OC and which ones don't can be tricky. Also don't forget to experiment with Vsync, I prefer it off most of the time, with exceptions like FC3 where the tearing is so great it becomes distracting so I force adaptive Vsync, through NV control or set it in game.

Yasamoka the creator of Color Sustainer, has a thread I think you'll find interesting, the two subjects tie together well, and he is quite helpful/knowledgeable on the subject. see *[HERE]*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Only overclock i can get is 90hz on my gtx 480 maybe the r9 290x will get better. but i am only using the nvida control panel with a custom resolution. I find the stock stand to wobbly and it annoys me. I type and it wobbles.


You will need the full patch for OC's in the 110-120Hz range ... see my post *[HERE]*

ToastyX quote ... source [HERE]

_If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
_ I will add that all Nvidia SLI+ users are still using the full patch for any overclock over 60Hz, IIRC.

Use the "Full Patch"

nvlddmkm-patcher-1.2.6.zip 80k .zip file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> EDIT: just tried it, still get the green lines. maybe if i change my dvi cable? im not desperate for 120... i am very satisfied with 96hz. i just wanna see if i can hit the 120


You may have hit your limit ... many monitors will not reach 120Hz even trying several different cables. The most success seen in a cable change comes from "shorter is better", but some have had success with a quality upgrade also, but that is the exception not the rule!
Double check info/my post *[HERE]*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phygar*
> 
> Do the qnix drivers work with xstar monitors? Everyone says the only difference is the bezel, but is that really true?


True! (instructions inside)

QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Where do i get the Qnix drivers and do they make a difference at all for overclocking ect.?


Absolutely! if you want other apps (ie. games) to see your OC ... see info *[HERE]*
DL driver from comment above


----------



## Grue

[quote name="Grue" url="/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/18090#post_22199137"

I am also finding out through GPU-Z that my AsRock Z77 Extreme 4 mobo is not seeing my new PCI EX 3.0 card at 3.0 (it is in the 3.0 slot). It shows 2.0 in sysinfo, and 2.0, then drops to 1.1 in GPU-Z with render test. I've emailed support at AsRock but I feel I may be on the hook for a mobo upgrade soon...

[/quote]

Solved: AsRock replied and I guess I'm stuck at pci express 2.0 due to my processor being Sandy Bridge (2nd gen). Time to upgrade mobo/processor...

On a brighter note I discovered my R9 290 (Saphire) is unlockable! I followed the instructions from this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1443242/the-r9-290-290x-unlock-thread and now have a 290x


----------



## Darkmader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enilder*
> 
> Thanks for confirming. I just placed an order!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope I get lucky too! Are you on east coast or west coast? I am on east coast so I am guessing it will take longer.


In the middle  It goes through Alaska so I would add maybe another day or two.


----------



## hybridxer0

I'll be purchasing a 1440 soon so I may have some questions. Looking forward to increasing my monitor size!


----------



## 13bgarli

A friend told me about these Korean monitors a while ago and I decided I should start doing some research, so I've been reading this thread for a while now. Just wanted to chime in on my success on buying a Qnix QX2710 from accessorieswhole (http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491). I haven't actually seen the monitor yet because I figured it would take a long time to get shipped (I have finals in college this week and figured if I ordered it now it should be delivered by the time I get home) but I ordered last Friday and it was delivered on Tuesday (to Arizona)! I was really surprised! It has no BLB or dead pixels and it seems to be able to overclock to 105hz on my AMD 5870 (110hz works fine for a static image but as soon as we threw on a film it would start to have some artifacting on screen). I'll be able to try it on my GTX 770 when I get home and see if I get any different results! Overall I'm pretty happy (although I still haven't seen it yet though, but from what I've heard from my father it looks amazing).

So I just wanted to thank all you guys for convincing me to pull the trigger! It seems like they're getting better with sending quality monitors out recently.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> The QNIX2710LED uses PWM, I can confirm. At near-lowest brightness settings, the flicker is very noticeable. In all other brightness settings other than max, you can see vertical bars moving left to right across the screen by pointing your phone camera at it and focusing in on the screen (this is a result of PWM). But must troubling of all is that I never knew about PWM until I purchased this monitor and noticed that my eyes were beginning to hurt. Like, the muscles in them had been worked to the bones. The higher the (hardware) brightness is, the less the effect, but I'm not sure that it ever goes away completely. I still have a tiny bit of eyestrain at max with software dimming enabled, though not anywhere near hardware dimming levels.


It seems that some use PWM and others don't. The flicker you notice at lower brightness does not seem like PWM. On mine it's almost as if the brightness can't go that low and it starts flickering between low and higher brightnesses in a random fashion.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It seems that some use PWM and others don't. The flicker you notice at lower brightness does not seem like PWM. On mine it's almost as if the brightness can't go that low and it starts flickering between low and higher brightnesses in a random fashion.


Thats how mine does. At the lowest brightness there is a flicker, nothing detectable though at any higher levels.


----------



## istudy92

Hey guys I need help,

I own a Qnix 1440p, and an HP w1907 monitor.

Recently i have decided to add the HP as a 2nd monitor on my 780 evga gpu.

Now everytime I boot my PC I get blue screen of death with memory dump.

HOWEVER when I disconnect my HP monitor and only leave my qnix it boots normally and I have to then connect my 2nd monitor!

Why does this happen?
How can I fix this issue?


----------



## dklimitless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> It would be for me.


I think what he/she was trying to say
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Hey guys I need help,
> 
> I own a Qnix 1440p, and an HP w1907 monitor.
> 
> Recently i have decided to add the HP as a 2nd monitor on my 780 evga gpu.
> 
> Now everytime I boot my PC I get blue screen of death with memory dump.
> 
> HOWEVER when I disconnect my HP monitor and only leave my qnix it boots normally and I have to then connect my 2nd monitor!
> 
> Why does this happen?
> How can I fix this issue?


Does the same thing happen when you have only the HP plugged in and not the qnix?


----------



## Overfiend

I just installed my second graphics card today, and since then my qnix says it is going 100hz, but it is only showing 50hz on testUFO.

Also, on the frame skip checker it is skipping frames and only showing 50fps.

I know this monitor can hit 100hz without skipping.

I have installed the patches, and the qnix driver - anyone know why it's doing this?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> I just installed my second graphics card today, and since then my qnix says it is going 100hz, but it is only showing 50hz on testUFO.
> 
> Also, on the frame skip checker it is skipping frames and only showing 50fps.
> 
> I know this monitor can hit 100hz without skipping.
> 
> I have installed the patches, and the qnix driver - anyone know why it's doing this?


do you have other tabs open?


----------



## Overfiend

Nope, no other tabs or programs open.

It's going crazy. Now it says it is doing 100fps/100hz, but on all my pics it is skipping loads of frames.

This kind of sucks. With a single card this was buttery smooth 100hz with no skipping


----------



## october414

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Nope, no other tabs or programs open.
> 
> It's going crazy. Now it says it is doing 100fps/100hz, but on all my pics it is skipping loads of frames.
> 
> This kind of sucks. With a single card this was buttery smooth 100hz with no skipping


Doubt this solves it, but tried with Google Chrome? My Firefox doesn't like UFO..


----------



## Sempre

Do i need to change default timings if there's no issue with my 96/120hz overclock?
btw my pixel clock at 120 Hz is 483 MHz, and at 96 Hz is 386 MHz


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Do i need to change default timings if there's no issue with my 96/120hz overclock?
> btw my pixel clock at 120 Hz is 483 MHz, and at 96 Hz is 386 MHz


No need to change if they work default timings.

You must have a good one:thumb:


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dklimitless*
> 
> I think what he/she was trying to say
> Does the same thing happen when you have only the HP plugged in and not the qnix?


No, when I have just the HP connected it boots normally (I think from what I recall) (I can check if you need me to?)

Also when I have just Qnix connected alone it boots normaly.


----------



## apav

Anyone else noticing image persistance too frequently on higher refresh rates? Running at 110hz. If I keep my browser full screened for like 10 minutes if I go to another screen I can sometimes still see the search bar and other static parts of the broswer (like the toolbar). The weird part is I can only notice it when watching full screen videos. If I look for the image persistence on my desktop after having my browser idle on my screen for a while, I can't notice it. But as soon as I open youtube and click fullscreen, I notice it immediately. I know it's easier to see with certain colors, but I don't notice it at all unless I'm watching a video fullscreened.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Do i need to change default timings if there's no issue with my 96/120hz overclock?
> btw my pixel clock at 120 Hz is 483 MHz, and at 96 Hz is 386 MHz


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> No need to change if they work default timings.
> 
> You must have a good one:thumb:


Yes, it's better to. At 120Hz, 483MHz pixel clock is beyond the native capability of the display controller chip which is 450MHz. Tightening your timings so that the pixel clock is closer to 450MHz is good practice in relieving the monitor components from extra unneeded stress. Tightening your timings too much would mean that the geaphics card can no longer idle properly so the memory clock would stay high. If you use 120Hz 24/7 then keep that in mind, otherwise if you use 120Hz in games then your memory clock would be high anyways and tightening the timings as far as possible is a good idea.


----------



## Strat79

Got my Pixel Perfect QX2710 Evolution II in yesterday evening along with my 780Ti Gaming 3G. It has what looks like 2 or possibly 3 side by side dead pixels in the very top right corner, about 1/4 inch from top and 1/2 inch from the rightmost side. They appear dull looking on almost all colors besides black so I assumed that is considered dead and not stuck. Either way, it is not at all noticeable unless you really are looking really really hard.

It has absolutely zero back-light bleed that I can see and I have tried all kinds of different settings to see if I could see any and never did. It OC's to 115Hz without a problem and no messing with the Pixel Clock. Just installed the catleap driver and made a few custom profiles in NV control Panel and tested with webpage listed in the OP for skipped frames, etc. It will go up to 117 before showing any signs of artifacting so I just moved to back down to 110 and called it good enough. I'm happy with it, the dead pixels are a non-issue to me and I would have been happy with just 96Hz, so 115 is just icing on the cake. I bought it from Amazon but came from "BizBuy International". It took 4 days to get here total, counting the day I ordered it. I'm now playing with calibrating. Wish me luck


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> No need to change if they work default timings.
> 
> You must have a good one


Yep







i've got it for ten months now and no issues so far

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Yes, it's better to. At 120Hz, 483MHz pixel clock is beyond the native capability of the display controller chip which is 450MHz. Tightening your timings so that the pixel clock is closer to 450MHz is good practice in relieving the monitor components from extra unneeded stress. Tightening your timings too much would mean that the geaphics card can no longer idle properly so the memory clock would stay high. If you use 120Hz 24/7 then keep that in mind, otherwise if you use 120Hz in games then your memory clock would be high anyways and tightening the timings as far as possible is a good idea.


Yes, thats what happened when i altered the timings according to a post here, my gpu clock and memory were really high. Im ok with staying at 96hz and then changing to 120hz when gaming. Is there standard timings i should set for 120hz to stay under 450mhz?

Oh, and im using NVCP to change settings and timings. Should i start using CRU?


----------



## Sempre

*double post


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quick question for anyone running a sli setup,is there a fix to have my GPU's usage/memory automatically going back to regular clock speed when not gaming....? I see that with an overclock of 96/110Hz that the usage is higher,and the only way to bring it back down when not gaming is to use windows resolution to set it back to 60Hz....


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quick question for anyone running a sli setup,is there a fix to have my GPU's usage/memory automatically going back to regular clock speed when not gaming....? I see that with an overclock of 96/110Hz that the usage is higher,and the only way to bring it back down when not gaming is to use windows resolution to set it back to 60Hz....


I am pretty sure that's the only fix.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I am pretty sure that's the only fix.


I figured as much....I was just hoping there was a fix by now....


----------



## Purostaff

pulled the trigger on matte x-star from dream-seller with 3-yr squaretrade

total came to $345 shipped

please pray for me


----------



## savy4

So I finally got my triple QNIX QX2710's setup up. I am running them on one GTX-780 SC 3GB. One of the monitors is the multi-input version as to use the hdmi port on the single gpu.

Here is my dilemma, I cannot get nvidia surround to work, it gives me errors on all the monitors saying that I need to use displays that support a common resolution, refresh rate, and sync polarity. But obviously these identical monitors do this.

I've talked to evga tech support ot no avail. I've tried manually setting the refresh rates and nothing works.

Any ideas guys? Thanks!!


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savy4*
> 
> So I finally got my triple QNIX QX2710's setup up. I am running them on one GTX-780 SC 3GB. One of the monitors is the multi-input version as to use the hdmi port on the single gpu.
> 
> Here is my dilemma, I cannot get nvidia surround to work, it gives me errors on all the monitors saying that I need to use displays that support a common resolution, refresh rate, and sync polarity. But obviously these identical monitors do this.
> 
> I've talked to evga tech support ot no avail. I've tried manually setting the refresh rates and nothing works.
> 
> Any ideas guys? Thanks!!


I think it's the HDMI, I have the same setup (though 780TI) and the multi version I am using Displayport without issue.


----------



## sim0N

Qucik question here, I got my monitor ~3 months ago and OC at 120hz fine but since yesterday I get some artifact when gaming....
I was wondering if and how should I change my settings :


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sim0N*
> 
> Qucik question here, I got my monitor ~3 months ago and OC at 120hz fine but since yesterday I get some artifact when gaming....
> I was wondering if and how should I change my settings :


What kind of artifacting? Normally game artifacting is due to the video card not being quite stable, and not the monitor. Monitor artifacts (green lines, etc) should show up even on the desktop.


----------



## sim0N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> What kind of artifacting? Normally game artifacting is due to the video card not being quite stable, and not the monitor. Monitor artifacts (green lines, etc) should show up even on the desktop.


yeah it looks like green line my build isn't up to date in my sig but I have 780 in SLI i will try to down clock them and see


----------



## the9quad

whoever originally posted these settings, my gratitude. ( i was able to do 120hz just fine with reduced, but these are even better and close to 450 on the pixel clock which is nice)


----------



## savy4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I think it's the HDMI, I have the same setup (though 780TI) and the multi version I am using Displayport without issue.


Sweet! I am going to get a dp cable right now to test this out.I'll let you know if that works. Thanks.


----------



## CoolRonZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I think it's the HDMI, I have the same setup (though 780TI) and the multi version I am using Displayport without issue.


i thought a single GTX only has 2 DACs or whatever you call them and a AMD has 3 thats why eyefinity(3screen) works with AMD, and you need an SLI'd GTX PC to use suround for nvidia.... I may be wrong, but thats the way I understand it, hope this helps....


----------



## CoolRonZ

SSSOOOOOO SAD I never went onto OCN before I ordered my DPmulti..... Overclocking doesn't matter to me, but the 2frames lag does. Although I always use Vsync and dont notice lag, so who knows. I do like the idea of native DP though. It already cleared customs and I paid DHL their $26 online, so should be here early next week. Honestly my dealings with STOREWITHSTORY on ebay was quite pleasant. But what does irk me is its not really a VA panel, just another term from a manufacturer trying to spoof consumers. I've only had bang for the buck monitors, so I doubt if I'll be disappointed, I'm sure it will look good on my stand between a couple Hanns-G 23.6" 1080Ps, and since I wont be running 5760x1080, my FPS should increase quite a bit...


----------



## the9quad

It's pls not ips, it's fine


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolRonZ*
> 
> i thought a single GTX only has 2 DACs or whatever you call them and a AMD has 3 thats why eyefinity(3screen) works with AMD, and you need an SLI'd GTX PC to use suround for nvidia.... I may be wrong, but thats the way I understand it, hope this helps....


I don't know, I have three monitors into single 780TI and surround works fine.


----------



## snorbaard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snorbaard*
> 
> Just made an unexpected discovery!! Very pleased.
> 
> I bought a cheap HDMI to 24+5 pin DVI adapter, but I pulled out the last 4 pins to make it a 24+1 DVI connector.
> 
> I then connected it in the following manner:
> 
> QX2710 Input <-- 24+1 DVI adapter to HDMI <-- HDMI cable --> AMD 280X
> 
> 1440p CONFIRMED at 60 Hz!


Hi all

I can't seem to be able to create a custom resolution with a refresh rate above 60 Hz for the QX2710 when connected in this way. With the same HDMI to DVI cable I can get 120 Hz on my Asus VG248QE. This is a curious case. Could it be that the CRU doesn't override HDMI settings in the driver?


----------



## dklimitless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolRonZ*
> 
> i thought a single GTX only has 2 DACs or whatever you call them and a AMD has 3 thats why eyefinity(3screen) works with AMD, and you need an SLI'd GTX PC to use suround for nvidia.... I may be wrong, but thats the way I understand it, hope this helps....


Only the older Geforce cards had that limitation, the new ones (I think Kepler onwards) can do it fine for a single card


----------



## DiceAir

I'm just wondering. If you play around with the total pixels and total lines in CRU is there soemthign as going to low and cause more artifacts like green lines?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quick question for anyone running a sli setup,is there a fix to have my GPU's usage/memory automatically going back to regular clock speed when not gaming....? I see that with an overclock of 96/110Hz that the usage is higher,and the only way to bring it back down when not gaming is to use windows resolution to set it back to 60Hz....


0n the desktop with any AMD card not just the R9 290 / 290X the memory clock is unable to downclock at 120hz using such a low pixel clock!.. and even if its raised it to a point where as you can not hit 120hz any more because you have moved to far above the 450mhz pixel limit it still is not able to down clock!..*Nvidia cards on the other hand ( and if there monitor is able to hit 120hz )seem to be capable of down clocking there memory using a sightly raise pixel clock* or LCD standard timings of 483mhz *(for some Nvidia cards)* which is still close enough to the pixel clock limit of 450mhz and hit 120hz and be able to down clock its memory on the desktop at a lower pixel clock than any AMD card can!...*However they will be some nvidia cards that still need to use the tighter timings to hit 120hz so it is always best to use the tighter timings first to see if your monitor can indeed hit 120hz and then try to raise there pixel clock!*

My 120hz timings pictured below seem to enable most people who have a 120hz capable monitor to indeed hit 120hz...this is because the pixel clock is low enough to the 450 pixel clock limit and therefore will give you a stronger signal...However Nvidia card owners may want to try to raise totals slightly higher to be able to down clock there memory and if they can run indeed hit 120hz with my timings!

However on desktop and idle with an AMD card the memory can not down clock at 120hz which means it is drawing as much wattage as if it was running flat out gaming!...In my case this is 4gb of DDR 5 Ram running flat out on the desktop at 1350mhz and drawing an extra 60watts of power which is also adding 10c to my cards idle temp!...None of this will hurt / damage your card in any way at all...or even make it run any hotter when gaming because it cant go any faster than it is at idle on the desktop!...However your electricity bill will go up and if you care about that then i would advise using CCC and making some presets for your custom resolutions as i have done in my picture below...This will enable you at the touch of a keystroke to flick over to 60hz or even 96hz *or even using LCD Standard timings @ 110hz* on the desktop and your GPU memory will be able to down clock!...Once you want to game again just hit your 120hz preset keystroke and off you go!...Or you could even just run 110hz 24/7!

Setting CCC Presets to flick from one Resolution to another



My 120hz timings



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I'm just wondering. If you play around with the total pixels and total lines in CRU is there soemthign as going to low and cause more artifacts like green lines?


Yes if you go to low you will not be able to down clock your cards ram at 120hz also using such low lines can course artefacts!...Its a balance of being close enough to the 450mhz limit to be able to hit it and for NVIDIA card owners trying *not* to raise there clocks to far above the 450mhz limit but still close enough to it and be able to down clock there ram at 120hz...AMD owners can not hit 120hz and down clock there cards ram at 120hz on the desktop!...However they can use my work around posted above!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 0n the desktop with any AMD card not just the R9 290 / 290X the memory clock is unable to downclock at 120hz using such a low pixel clock!.. and even if its raised it to a point where as you can not hit 120hz any more because you have moved to far above the 450mhz pixel limit it still is not able to down clock!..*Nvidia cards on the other hand ( and if there monitor is able to hit 120hz )seem to be capable of down clocking there memory using a sightly raise pixel clock* or LCD standard timings of 483mhz *(for some Nvidia cards)* which is still close enough to the pixel clock limit of 450mhz and hit 120hz and be able to down clock its memory on the desktop at a lower pixel clock than any AMD card can!...*However they will be some nvidia cards that still need to use the tighter timings to hit 120hz so it is always best to use the first to see if your monitor can indeed hit 120hz and then try to raise there pixel clock!*
> 
> My 120hz timings pictured below seem to enable most people who have a 120hz capable monitor to indeed hit 120hz...this is because the pixel clock is low enough to the 450 pixel clock limit and therefore will give you a stronger signal...However Nvidia card owners may want to try to raise totals slightly higher to be able to down clock there memory and if they can run indeed hit 120hz with my timings!
> 
> However on desktop and idle with an AMD card the memory can not down clock at 120hz which means it is drawing as much wattage as if it was running flat out gaming!...In my case this is 4gb of DDR 5 Ram running flat out on the desktop at 1350mhz and drawing an extra 60watts of power which is also adding 10c to my cards idle temp!...None of this will hurt / damage your card in any way at all...or even make it run any hotter when gaming because it cant go any faster than it is at idle on the desktop!...However your electricity bill will go up and if you care about that then i would advise using CCC and making some presets for your custom resolutions as i have done in my picture below...This will enable you at the touch of a keystroke to flick over to 60hz or even 96hz *or even using LCD Standard timings @ 110hz* on the desktop and your GPU memory will be able to down clock!...Once you want to game again just hit your 120hz preset keystroke and off you go!...Or you could even just run 110hz 24/7!
> 
> Setting CCC Presets to flick from one Resolution to another
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 120hz timings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I can hit 110 no prob (despite the extra usage on idle) i would love to get 120Hz just for the heck of it....The chart you showed (isn't what i use) i was told to just use the regular (NVCP) for my overclock and not to touch CRU because it conflicts with (geforce experience)....Just for the record is the chart shown from CRU,and if it is,should i just leave it be,rather than try it and have a conflict of programs....? Not sure if there is any other way to get tighter timings with NVCP and if so what would that be....?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> I can hit 110 no prob (despite the extra usage on idle) i would love to get 120Hz just for the heck of it....The chart you showed (isn't what i use) i was told to just use the regular (NVCP) for my overclock and not to touch CRU because it conflicts with (geforce experience)....Just for the record is the chart shown from CRU,and if it is,should i just leave it be,rather than try it and have a conflict of programs....? Not sure if there is any other way to get tighter timings with NVCP and if so what would that be....?


No you should use the Qnix monitor Driver method and *not* use CRU!...In the link below you may find some posts of mine with Tomcat interesting and going into more depth to the benefits of why Nvida user should use the Qnix monitor driver and use NVCP to set your custom resolutions

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/17700

There are Sightly tighter timings which are in the picture below!...However not all maybe able to run with such tight timings and also no Nvida card along with AMD cards will be able to down clock there cards memory at 120hz using these timings!...
However it may help some hit 120hz!...You can use these timings also via NVCP ..Also you will see many screen shots of mine throughout this thread some showing my timings via NVCP when i was using Nvdia cards in SLI and some via CRU showing my timings in CRU as i am now using AMD crossfire R9 290 cards!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 0n the desktop with any AMD card not just the R9 290 / 290X the memory clock is unable to downclock at 120hz using such a low pixel clock!.. and even if its raised it to a point where as you can not hit 120hz any more because you have moved to far above the 450mhz pixel limit it still is not able to down clock!..*Nvidia cards on the other hand ( and if there monitor is able to hit 120hz )seem to be capable of down clocking there memory using a sightly raise pixel clock* or LCD standard timings of 483mhz *(for some Nvidia cards)* which is still close enough to the pixel clock limit of 450mhz and hit 120hz and be able to down clock its memory on the desktop at a lower pixel clock than any AMD card can!...*However they will be some nvidia cards that still need to use the tighter timings to hit 120hz so it is always best to use the tighter timings first to see if your monitor can indeed hit 120hz and then try to raise there pixel clock!*
> 
> My 120hz timings pictured below seem to enable most people who have a 120hz capable monitor to indeed hit 120hz...this is because the pixel clock is low enough to the 450 pixel clock limit and therefore will give you a stronger signal...However Nvidia card owners may want to try to raise totals slightly higher to be able to down clock there memory and if they can run indeed hit 120hz with my timings!
> 
> However on desktop and idle with an AMD card the memory can not down clock at 120hz which means it is drawing as much wattage as if it was running flat out gaming!...In my case this is 4gb of DDR 5 Ram running flat out on the desktop at 1350mhz and drawing an extra 60watts of power which is also adding 10c to my cards idle temp!...None of this will hurt / damage your card in any way at all...or even make it run any hotter when gaming because it cant go any faster than it is at idle on the desktop!...However your electricity bill will go up and if you care about that then i would advise using CCC and making some presets for your custom resolutions as i have done in my picture below...This will enable you at the touch of a keystroke to flick over to 60hz or even 96hz *or even using LCD Standard timings @ 110hz* on the desktop and your GPU memory will be able to down clock!...Once you want to game again just hit your 120hz preset keystroke and off you go!...Or you could even just run 110hz 24/7!
> 
> Setting CCC Presets to flick from one Resolution to another
> 
> 
> 
> My 120hz timings
> 
> 
> Yes if you go to low you will not be able to down clock your cards ram at 120hz also using such low lines can course artefacts!...Its a balance of being close enough to the 450mhz limit to be able to hit it and for NVIDIA card owners trying *not* to raise there clocks to far above the 450mhz limit but still close enough to it and be able to down clock there ram at 120hz...AMD owners can not hit 120hz and down clock there cards ram at 120hz on the desktop!...However they can use my work around posted above!


My settings is as follows



i will try your timings to see if it works.


----------



## 1Neveroutgunned

Briefly scanned the last couple of pages but didn't see anything. Had a weird issue with my Qnix after updating to Catalyst 14.4 Drivers. Running Win 8.1 and using a ATI 7950. Monitor is OC'd to 90Hz. After the driver was installed the monitor would cycle though various test patterns and that's it. Power cycled the monitor which worked briefly but then the issue persisted and I had to restore windows to a previous state.

Fairly sure I didn't have issues updating ATI drivers in the past with an OC Monitor profile but these 14.4 drivers are giving me hassles.


----------



## DiceAir

And so far so good it works. I've tested bf4 and no artifacts like green lines etc etc with my pixel clock being lower. So that's awesome dude.

The only strange thing I noticed from my screen is even at 60hz when my card downclock I geet green lines and dots but if I force my gpu memory on 1500mhz and core on 500mhz for desktop use it works fine. anyway that's still not as bad as having it running 1100mhz/1500mhz all the time. so I'm happy and idle temps is about 40C on lowest fan speed so still good enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Neveroutgunned*
> 
> Briefly scanned the last couple of pages but didn't see anything. Had a weird issue with my Qnix after updating to Catalyst 14.4 Drivers. Running Win 8.1 and using a ATI 7950. Monitor is OC'd to 90Hz. After the driver was installed the monitor would cycle though various test patterns and that's it. Power cycled the monitor which worked briefly but then the issue persisted and I had to restore windows to a previous state.
> 
> Fairly sure I didn't have issues updating ATI drivers in the past with an OC Monitor profile but these 14.4 drivers are giving me hassles.


I'm on 14.4 and it's all good.

What you can try is remove the drivers using DDU utility and then install 14.4 drivers.

edit: I was speaking to soon...lol. when brosing this forum I can see a vertical green line here so maybe I should go back to old settings


----------



## the9quad

Lawson67, +rep man! you've been a good source of info


----------



## DiceAir

Never mind I will edit this post with my settings now. seems like when I rebooted my timings wasn't taking effect


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Neveroutgunned*
> 
> Briefly scanned the last couple of pages but didn't see anything. Had a weird issue with my Qnix after updating to Catalyst 14.4 Drivers. Running Win 8.1 and using a ATI 7950. Monitor is OC'd to 90Hz. After the driver was installed the monitor would cycle though various test patterns and that's it. Power cycled the monitor which worked briefly but then the issue persisted and I had to restore windows to a previous state.
> 
> Fairly sure I didn't have issues updating ATI drivers in the past with an OC Monitor profile but these 14.4 drivers are giving me hassles.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> And so far so good it works. I've tested bf4 and no artifacts like green lines etc etc with my pixel clock being lower. So that's awesome dude.
> 
> The only strange thing I noticed from my screen is even at 60hz when my card downclock I geet green lines and dots but if I force my gpu memory on 1500mhz and core on 500mhz for desktop use it works fine. anyway that's still not as bad as having it running 1100mhz/1500mhz all the time. so I'm happy and idle temps is about 40C on lowest fan speed so still good enough.
> I'm on 14.4 and it's all good.
> 
> What you can try is remove the drivers using DDU utility and then install 14.4 drivers.
> 
> edit: I was speaking to soon...lol. when brosing this forum I can see a vertical green line here so maybe I should go back to old settings


Try using the *reset-all.exe* which you will find in the original CRU zip file that you downloaded!...Run it before uninstalling the 13.12 drivers using DDU and upgrading to the 14.4 drivers....This will delete any EDID overrides that you created using the 13.12 drivers!...Then once and you have installed the 14.4 drivers you can patch them with toastys new ATI Patcher linked below and then recreate your new custom resolutions via CRU and then reboot!...Using this method will give you new EDID overrides for the 14.4 drivers and has worked Flawlessly for me in the past if i have had any conflicts.

14.4Patcher.zip 40k .zip file


----------



## DiceAir

Ok here we go now it's right I can use this settings so far. anything that's not right here or dangerous for my monitor please post. Will test when i get my motherboard this week and can run Crossfire again. just a note on desktop I'm using 500mhz core and 1500mhz memory. so far so good let's hope it's alright settings

Also how do I use color sustainer?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok here we go now it's right I can use this settings so far. anything that's not right here or dangerous for my monitor please post. Will test when i get my motherboard this week and can run Crossfire again. just a note on desktop I'm using 500mhz core and 1500mhz memory. so far so good let's hope it's alright settings


Those timings are perfect and a copy of mine and should help you keep a nice strong signal at 120hz with a pixel clock of 459.86mhz!...Also i run crossfire with R9 290 cards with 8 gig of ram overclocked to 1500mhz which is why i use the CCC persets that i posted a screen shot of on the last page so that at a hit of a keystroke i can flick over to 110hz or 96hz or 60hz on the desktop as all of these refresh rates will allow my Cards ram to down clock!

Also the pictures below demonstrate the extra wattage being drawn by my computer running unnecessary elevated Ram clocks on the desktop.. which in my case is only one cards 4gig of DDR 5 Ram at 1500mhz as the other card is idle!...However with the ram ramped up at 1500mhz as you can clearly see in the pictures below i am pulling an extra over 70watts of power!....And is why i highly recommend using CCC presets for AMD users to enable your cards ram to down clock while not gaming!...

And for nvidia card users to read my comments on the last page in an attempt slightly raise there 120hz pixel clock so that there ram can down clock at 120hz on the desktop as *tomcat* achieved with his Nvidia card which is also in the link on the last page with posts between my self and tomcat!

60hz on the desktop ram down clocked power being drawn from the wall



120hz on the desktop Ram unable to down clock power being drawn from the wall


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Also how do I use color sustainer?


Did you read the README.docx file provided?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*


lawson, are these timings also good for a single 780ti? i have no issue running 120hz with default timings. Its just that i want the pixel clock to be lower than 450mhz.

You said not to use CRU for nvidia cards but i cant find the settings: "Back Porch & Blanking"

this is my pixel clock (459mhz) when i set the timings according to the above:


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> lawson, are these timings also good for a single 780ti? i have no issue running 120hz with default timings. Its just that i want the pixel clock to be lower than 450mhz.


If you can run your Nvidia card at 120hz on stock timings this means your ram will be able to down clock at 120hz!....This is the perfect scenario that no AMD card owners have the luxury of!.. Your ram will down clock on the desktop at 120hz...i would not touch a thing








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> but i cant find the settings: "Back Porch & Blanking"


You do not need to set Back Porch & Blanking in NVCP just use the other settings from my CRU picture and NVCP will calculate the Back Porch & Blanking values automatically from the other values of mine that you have entered....However as i said if you can leave your timings at stock and achieve 120hz your ram will down clock on the desktop and so therefore i would NOT use my timings...Just use stock as you are able too!!...not all can but you are indeed lucky


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Also how do I use color sustainer?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Did you read the README.docx file provided?
Click to expand...

I think he (Dice) means where do I DL Color Sustainer? ...
IIRC the OP hasn't been updated to provide links to Yasamoka's program ... Yaz, maybe you'll have better luck with OP updates? Many of us have converted to, and are quite pleased with Yaz's "Color Sustainer" ... for more comments/info see *[HERE]* (scroll down to CS) ...
So I have no problem tooting his horn









Color Sustainer DL *[HERE]*

CS and game profiles discussion ... *[HERE]*

My favorite CS profiles (comments inside). Remember every monitor is different and there is no "Right or Wrong" color profile as it really comes down to personal preference









FavoriteColorSustainerprofiles.zip 71k .zip file


----------



## DiceAir

Got color sustainer to work sort of. Now I sit with another issue. When I run 60hz and my memory clocks down I will get vertical green lines in movie playback but when I force my meory at 1500mhz then everything is fine. is theris something wrong. I also had this issue when I first got my graphics cards with this monitor. I also tried playing with the reduce dvi frequency settings. I'm using VLC player. I can see this green lines on desktop aswell


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> If you can run your Nvidia card at 120hz on stock timings this means your ram will be able to down clock at 120hz!....This is the perfect scenario that no AMD card owners have the luxury of!.. Your ram will down clock on the desktop at 120hz...i would not touch a thing


Thanks







that's nice to know. i just want to be sure because my pixel clock at default timings is 483mhz and its known that 450mhz or lower is safer.

This is from a previous page:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Yes, it's better to. At 120Hz, 483MHz pixel clock is beyond the native capability of the display controller chip which is 450MHz. Tightening your timings so that the pixel clock is closer to 450MHz is good practice in relieving the monitor components from extra unneeded stress. Tightening your timings too much would mean that the geaphics card can no longer idle properly so the memory clock would stay high. If you use 120Hz 24/7 then keep that in mind, otherwise if you use 120Hz in games then your memory clock would be high anyways and tightening the timings as far as possible is a good idea.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Those timings are perfect and a copy of mine and should help you keep a nice strong signal at 120hz with a pixel clock of 459.86mhz!...Also i run crossfire with R9 290 cards with 8 gig of ram overclocked to 1500mhz which is why i use the CCC persets that i posted a screen shot of on the last page so that at a hit of a keystroke i can flick over to 110hz or 96hz or 60hz on the desktop as all of these refresh rates will allow my Cards ram to down clock!
> 
> Also the pictures below demonstrate the extra wattage being drawn by my computer running unnecessary elevated Ram clocks on the desktop.. which in my case is only one cards 4gig of DDR 5 Ram at 1500mhz as the other card is idle!...However with the ram ramped up at 1500mhz as you can clearly see in the pictures below i am pulling an extra over 70watts of power!....And is why i highly recommend using CCC presets for AMD users to enable your cards ram to down clock while not gaming!...
> 
> And for nvidia card users to read my comments on the last page in an attempt slightly raise there 120hz pixel clock so that there ram can down clock at 120hz on the desktop as *tomcat* achieved with his Nvidia card which is also in the link on the last page with posts between my self and tomcat!
> 
> 60hz on the desktop ram down clocked power being drawn from the wall
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz on the desktop Ram unable to down clock power being drawn from the wall


Keep in mind AMD crossfire people, that if you LEAVE ULPS ENABLED, then it is only one card that will be running at the full memory frequency 24/7. That is if your interested in saving on your power bill. I run with ULPS enabled for this very reason, and so far have had no issues.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's nice to know. i just want to be sure because my pixel clock at default timings is 483mhz and its known that 450mhz or lower is safer.
> 
> This is from a previous page:


Running a pixel clock of 483mhz will not damage the 450mhz chip!...It will either will allow it or not allow it...Your lucky as yours allows it and will be happy at 483mhz


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Running a pixel clock of 483mhz will not damage the 450mhz chip!...It will either will allow it or not allow it...Your lucky as yours allows it and will be happy at 483mhz


Got it. Thanks


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Keep in mind AMD crossfire people, that if you LEAVE ULPS ENABLED, then it is only one card that will be running at the full memory frequency 24/7. That is if your interested in saving on your power bill. I run with ULPS enabled for this very reason, and so far have had no issues.


In fact i have ULPS disabled via Afterburner and my second card does indeed downclock on the desktop as in the picture below!.. I have set 120hz for the purpose of this picture! ...You can clearly see in HWiFO that my second card is running with downclocked ram unlike my top GPU....

However i do find that i have to set Afterburner to start up with a 20 second delay at boot up via task scheduler or it seems to conflict loading my CRU EDID overrides and windows is unable to see my custom refresh rates!


----------



## the9quad

I wasnt referrring to you, just pointing it out to save power


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> In fact i have ULPS disabled via Afterburner and my second card does indeed downclock on the desktop as in the picture below!.. I have set 120hz for the purpose of this picture! ...You can clearly see in HWiFO that my second card is running with downclocked ram unlike my top GPU....
> 
> However i do find that i have to set Afterburner to start up with a 20 second delay at boot up via task scheduler or it seems to conflict loading my CRU EDID overrides and windows is unable to see my custom refresh rates!


If I don't run mine at full speed (1500mhz) I get that green vertical lines


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I wasnt referrring to you, just pointing it out to save power


Yes i understand that however i just wanted to point out that indeed you can run with ULPS disabled as it makes no difference in the respect to your ram down clocking!...Your second card will still downclock on the desktop even if it is active with ULPS disabled as it is not required in 2D mode to take on any load!...However unless you drop your refresh rate below 120hz your top card will still run elevated ram clocks...That was the point i was trying to make...But yes you are correct enabling ULPS will use less power as the second card will be turned completely off when not needed


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> If I don't run mine at full speed (1500mhz) I get that green vertical lines


You will at 120hz using an AMD card and if you try to raise your pixel clock as high as a Nvidia user can in an attempt to lower your ram at 120hz!....This is why you should use CCC presets to lower your refresh rate on the desktop to below 120hz which enables your ram to downclock!....However at 60hz with your ram downclocked you should not be having green lines!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You will at 120hz using an AMD card and if you try to raise your pixel clock as high as a Nvidia user can in an attempt to lower your ram at 120hz!....This is why you should use CCC presets to lower your refresh rate on the desktop to below 120hz which enables your ram to downclock!....However at 60hz with your ram downclocked you should not be having green lines!


Like I said on 60hz when it downclocks I get green lines. I have to force 1500mhz to get rid of the green lines. It's weird man and it's also their when I'm not even overclocking the screen. Fresh install of windows, drivers, etc etc


----------



## HuwSharpe

Two questions, if overclocking draws more power, wont that effectively shorten the life of the monitor? Secondly, can some one PM me the driver for the Qnix 2710 EvoII please.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuwSharpe*
> 
> Two questions, if overclocking draws more power, wont that effectively shorten the life of the monitor? Secondly, can some one PM me the driver for the Qnix 2710 EvoII please.


1: "If overclocking draws more power, wont that effectively shorten the life of the monitor?" = The power draw that you maybe referring too showing elevated wattage usage in pictures of mine on the last page or page before are from the fact that on AMD cards as with some Nvidia cards ram at 120hz is unable to downclock using such reduced lines of vertical blanking... 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen. Even NVIDIA cards won't clock down if the vertical blanking/total is that low....So it is the Graphic card that is pulling the extra power not being able to downclock its ram and we have workarounds for these problems... Not the monitor!

2: The Qnix driver i have linked below for you









qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## the9quad

Higher frequency could mean more current draw, depending on the load whether it's inductive or cacpacitive. "eli the iceman". So yeah overclocking could cause more current draw through it which causes more heat which breaks things down over time. I may be wrong as i took that crap when I was 19, and am 42 now. But I would assume that's why you dont have 50000hz monitors and why these are really rated for 60hz. Then again, I know nothing of the internals of a monitor lol.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 1: "If overclocking draws more power, wont that effectively shorten the life of the monitor?" = The power draw that you maybe referring too showing elevated wattage usage in pictures of mine on the last page or page before are from the fact that on AMD cards as with some Nvidia cards ram at 120hz is unable to downclock using such reduced lines of vertical blanking... 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen. Even NVIDIA cards won't clock down if the vertical blanking/total is that low....So it is the Graphic card that is pulling the extra power not being able to downclock its ram and we have workarounds for these problems... Not the monitor!
> 
> 2: The Qnix driver i have linked below for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file


Any benefits of installing the driver?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Higher frequency could mean more current draw, depending on the load whether it's inductive or cacpacitive. eli the iceman. So yeah overclocking could cause more current draw through it which causes more heat which breaks things down over time. I may be wrong as i took that crap when I was 19, and am 42 now.


I have not measured weather the monitor draws any more current running at 120hz?...However i will find that out in a few minutes when i swap my wattage meter to my monitor and set 120hz via my graphic card and watch to see if the current draw elevates?....Also it is worth noting that we do not need to add any extra voltage to these monitors to overclock them as we do a CPU/Graphic card so i expect not to find any difference at all!...Also the chip on the Monitors PCB bored is rated to 450mhz!.. And the max you can successfully hit 120hz without moving to far beyond the chips 450mhz limit is most likely around 485mhz!

As for temps i have indeed tested the Monitors PCB Board housing looking for elevated temps at 120hz in the link below!... However i could not find a sizeable difference in the temps between 120hz or 60hz.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/17640


----------



## lawson67

After testing my monitors current draw from my wall at both 60hz and then 120hz i can confirm that these monitors do indeed draw an extra 6 watts of power!...The conclusion being that the Monitors chip on the PCB board the (EP269 display controller) indeed needs and is capable of drawing the extra nearly 7 watts of power needed to run chip at to elevated pixel clock at 120hz!...I wish i had done this test sooner!...

However i have not found a significant rise in temperatures in the PCB housing and i do not believe an extra just under 7 watts is anything to be worried about at all other than being an interesting find!...

*Edit: Also please bear in mind that i am only running at 9mhz over and above the EP269 display controller 450mhz limit so i believe this is well within a tolerable range for that chip which is clearly deigned to pull extra power if needed to ramp its self up to its limit of 450mhz when needed!*

In my case at 60hz having a pixel clock of 241.50mhz my monitor is pulling 31.9 watts as in the picture below



At 120hz my monitor is now pulling 38.4 watts that's just under 7 watts increase to ramp up the (EP269 display controller) chip on the monitors PCB Board to 459.54mhz at 120hz using my tightened timings!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> After testing my monitors current draw from my wall at both 60hz and then 120hz i can confirm that these monitors do indeed draw an extra 6 watts of power!...The conclusion being that the Monitors chip on the PCB board the (EP269 display controller) indeed needs and is capable of drawing the extra nearly 7 watts of power needed to run chip at to elevated pixel clock at 120hz!...I wish i had done this test sooner!...
> 
> However i have not found a significant rise in temperatures in the PCB housing and i do not believe an extra just under 7 watts is anything to be worried about at all other than being an interesting find!
> 
> In my case at 60hz having a pixel clock of 241.50mhz my monitor is pulling 31.9 watts as in the picture below
> 
> 
> 
> At 120hz my monitor is now pulling 38.4 watts that's just under 7 watts increase to ramp up the (EP269 display controller) chip on the monitors PCB Board to 459.54mhz at 120hz using my tightened timings!


nice find. I'm hapy to do 60hz on desktop and 120hz when gaming anyway. Taht way i'm sure not to overstress the thing.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> After testing my monitors current draw from my wall at both 60hz and then 120hz i can confirm that these monitors do indeed draw an extra 6 watts of power!...The conclusion being that the Monitors chip on the PCB board the (EP269 display controller) indeed needs and is capable of drawing the extra nearly 7 watts of power needed to run chip at to elevated pixel clock at 120hz!...I wish i had done this test sooner!...
> 
> However i have not found a significant rise in temperatures in the PCB housing and i do not believe an extra just under 7 watts is anything to be worried about at all other than being an interesting find!
> 
> In my case at 60hz having a pixel clock of 241.50mhz my monitor is pulling 31.9 watts as in the picture below
> 
> 
> 
> At 120hz my monitor is now pulling 38.4 watts that's just under 7 watts increase to ramp up the (EP269 display controller) chip on the monitors PCB Board to 459.54mhz at 120hz using my tightened timings!


Nice job man, thanks.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Nice job man, thanks.


Thanks to you the9quad its down to you man making me think to do such a test!...I pass the credit for this test over to you and thank you waking me up to do such a test....Thanks man







+REP


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Any benefits of installing the driver?


Only if you are using a Nvidia card as you can then use NVCP to create your custom resolutions with and not have to worry about EDID conflicts with Nvidia Geforce experience!...as in you do not need to uninstall it or use the blank-extension.dat if you was using CRU... Also the Qnix monitor driver will allow Nvida card users games to see and use there custom resolutions!....As for using the driver with AMD cards using CRU it will make no difference weather you use it or not apart from the fact that your monitor will now be called QX2710 instead of being called a generic pnp monitor.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Only if you are using a Nvidia card as you can then use NVCP to create your custom resolutions with and not have to worry about EDID conflicts with Nvidia Geforce experience!...as in you do not need to uninstall it or use the blank-extension.dat if you was using CRU... Also the Qnix monitor driver will allow Nvida card users games to see and use there custom resolutions!....As for using the driver with AMD cards using CRU it will make no difference weather you use it or not apart from the fact that your monitor will now be called QX2710 instead of being called a generic pnp monitor.


Dude you the man. Thanks for the info. So what is best for this screen Nvidia or AMD? Sli or Crossfire?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Dude you the man. Thanks for the info. So what is best for this screen Nvidia or AMD? Sli or Crossfire?


I would believe that's your choice with the graphic card options as they are right now i went to AMD and the R9 290 in crossfire and i have not been disappointed in the results!...Running an overclock of 1100 on my GPU cores and 1450mhz on my cards ram i am capable of running Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0 with a full screen native resolution of 2560x1440 with extreme tessellation and 8x anti aliasing and Ultra Quality at 68fps with my GPU cores at 1130mhz and 1500mhz on the Vram i am seeing a little over 70fps....Which i think is very pleasing


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Ok i have figured out the overclock i will be sticking with....If i stick to 96Hz with stock settings in NVCP my Gpu power percent only goes up like 1% from 15-16%,and when i try 110Hz (with changed timings) it goes up from 15-48 power usage....Also my memory clock goes up and run at a constant 3005 (gou 1) but if i keep it at 96Hz it downclocks back to 324....


----------



## Darkmader

I haven't played with OC'ing all that much yet and leaving it at 60 for now. For non-games and general use do you guys notice a difference between 60 vs 96 at all? Is it worth even OC'ing it if not playing games?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> I haven't played with OC'ing all that much yet and leaving it at 60 for now. For non-games and general use do you guys notice a difference between 60 vs 96 at all? Is it worth even OC'ing it if not playing games?


It only takes a second to OC to 96hz, and they all can do it easily. Yes you will notice, just doing regular tasks the mouse is smoother, etc.. It's as easy as pressing patch on the patch file, and typing 96 into CRU and rebooting.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> I haven't played with OC'ing all that much yet and leaving it at 60 for now. For non-games and general use do you guys notice a difference between 60 vs 96 at all? Is it worth even OC'ing it if not playing games?


Ever since I got introduced to higher refresh rates, there is no turning back to 60 FPS. Even with 1440p. I remember a few months ago in December I was on the fence in between purchasing a 1440p monitor and a 120hz monitor. I got introduced to this monitor through this website, took the risk and am extremely satisfied. Even at 96hz the difference is night and day. Like poster said above, regular tasks and mouse movement is noticeably smoother.

So in other words&#8230;. Overclock that shiznit!


----------



## crone

Hi guys, has anyone ordered a monitor from 2560x1440monitor.com since 30 April? I ordered and received the first monitor from them 2 weeks ago, I then ordered a second one and it has been 5 days without an update and I am starting to worry, just sitting at the original status - processed.
Maybe they are having a long weekend in Korea?

However, I must say I am really impressed with the monitor I received, the first one was sent the day after I ordered and I received it 4 days later! I love 1440p 120hz!


----------



## Jakeey802

Set mine up today, only thing that bothers me is the glare but apart from that its awesome !!!!

Edit: got it up to 150hz so far


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Set mine up today, only thing that bothers me is the glare but apart from that its awesome !!!!


How you enjoying it,have you overclocked it yet....?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Set mine up today, only thing that bothers me is the glare but apart from that its awesome !!!!
> 
> Edit: got it up to 150hz so far


wow amazing but i wouldn't go so far. just stick with 120hz to keep from damaging your monitor


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Set mine up today, only thing that bothers me is the glare but apart from that its awesome !!!!


Did you get a glossy one ?


----------



## Jakeey802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Did you get a glossy one ?


Yeah ): Regret it haha.

Turns out 150hz isn't stable either :3


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Yeah ): Regret it haha.
> 
> Turns out 150hz isn't stable either :3


lol. I knew it wasn't stable cause not many screens can even do 120hz. I should say first run 96hz for a few days then push 110hz for a few days then push 120hz and test.


----------



## 1Neveroutgunned

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try using the *reset-all.exe* which you will find in the original CRU zip file that you downloaded!...Run it before uninstalling the 13.12 drivers using DDU and upgrading to the 14.4 drivers....This will delete any EDID overrides that you created using the 13.12 drivers!...Then once and you have installed the 14.4 drivers you can patch them with toastys new ATI Patcher linked below and then recreate your new custom resolutions via CRU and then reboot!...Using this method will give you new EDID overrides for the 14.4 drivers and has worked Flawlessly for me in the past if i have had any conflicts.
> 
> 14.4Patcher.zip 40k .zip file


Thanks, followed the above and got updated to 14.4 without a hitch!


----------



## hybridxer0

I've been a longtime lurker of this thread, and my wife just gave me the go-ahead to purchase a 1440. I know they are the same panel, but are there any higher chances of getting to 120Hz on the Qnix vs the X-Star? I just don't understand why there is a discrepancy in price for being basically the same thing. I feel rather sheepish asking because I SHOULD know everything about this, but 1812 pages makes my eyes bleed. tongue.gif

Any help will be appreciated. I'll try not to ask stupid questions...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> I've been a longtime lurker of this thread, and my wife just gave me the go-ahead to purchase a 1440. I know they are the same panel, but are there any higher chances of getting to 120Hz on the Qnix vs the X-Star? I just don't understand why there is a discrepancy in price for being basically the same thing. I feel rather sheepish asking because I SHOULD know everything about this, but 1812 pages makes my eyes bleed. tongue.gif
> 
> Any help will be appreciated. I'll try not to ask stupid questions...


No they are one and the same excluding the Qnix True10!....The only difference being is the bezel one has X-star printed on it and the other one has Qnix printed on it!...I think you will find the story goes like this!...A Qnix was bought first and it was shown to overclocked to 120hz!... And then everyone wanted a Qnix and so therefore it got far more press coverage as in this forum and other forums than the poor X-Star!

And that's why the Qnix is talked about and bought over and above the X-Star...Even though they are the same thing!...Everyone wants the last one that someone else just bought and overclocked to 120hz...( we all want a winner! ) In most case the last person that posted on this thread / forum just bought a Qnix which overclocked to 120hz.

So guess what the next guy buys a Qnix!...Buy an X-Star they are indeed slightly cheaper and they are made in the same factory in south Korea which you can clearly see as in the youtube link below of the Qnix / X-Star Factory


----------



## hybridxer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> No they are one and the same excluding the Qnix True10!....The only difference being is the bezel one has X-star printed on it and the other one has Qnix printed on it!...I think you will find the story goes like this!...A Qnix was bought first and it was shown to overclocked to 120hz!... And then everyone wanted a Qnix and so therefore it got far more press coverage as in this forum and other forums than the poor X-Star!
> 
> And that's why the Qnix is talked about and bought over and above the X-Star...Even though they are the same thing!...Everyone wants the last one that someone else just bought and overclocked to 120hz...( we all want a winner! ) In most case the last person that posted on this thread / forum just bought a Qnix which overclocked to 120hz.
> 
> So guess what the next guy buys a Qnix!...Buy an X-Star they are indeed slightly cheaper and they are made in the same factory in south Korea which you can clearly see as in the youtube link below of the Qnix / X-Star Factory


I guess that is what makes it so confusing for someone trying to research... It's one of those situations where I know that these monitors are hundreds of dollars cheaper than the big named counterparts, but 300-400 is still a lot of money on a budget. So a justifiable purchase is one I want to be extremely happy with, lol.









Is True10 worth it? I don't need extra inputs.


----------



## dude0014

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> I guess that is what makes it so confusing for someone trying to research... It's one of those situations where I know that these monitors are hundreds of dollars cheaper than the big named counterparts, but 300-400 is still a lot of money on a budget. So a justifiable purchase is one I want to be extremely happy with, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is True10 worth it? I don't need extra inputs.


Seeing as you want to overclock. Do NOT get the True10. It doesn't overclock. Get the regular QX2710


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> I guess that is what makes it so confusing for someone trying to research... It's one of those situations where I know that these monitors are hundreds of dollars cheaper than the big named counterparts, but 300-400 is still a lot of money on a budget. So a justifiable purchase is one I want to be extremely happy with, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is True10 worth it? I don't need extra inputs.


The True 10 does *not* overclock!.. Even though many sellers clam it does!...And It indeed will accept 120hz custom resolution via CRU or NVCP however it has an onboard scaler due to the fact that it has other inputs over and above the the duel link DVI-D...So we was all very sceptical that it would overclock at all!.. And indeed we was proved correct when one of our members bought one and overclocked it!...Yes it accepted the 120hz overclock however on the UFO frame test website it was shown to be skipping every other frame! ...Which puts it back down to 60hz!...It a con as a 120hz monitor!


----------



## Sempre

I've been using my old 17" dell monitor stand for the past couple months. I saw a post here that was linked in the OP http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/3720_30#post_20298237 and decided to get the HP zr22w stand









Bought it from Amazon for 26$ (*link*)

It feels really sturdy and it looks great. Its designed for 22 inch monitors so it doesn't go to the tallest height without returning back down, but honestly i like it at this height. I think the vertical rotaion will really help me when dealing with long word documents. Overall its way better than the stock stand by a large margin









*PICS:*



http://imgur.com/8mrIZkE


here it is, you can see the dell stand behind



http://imgur.com/xa3T7gJ




http://imgur.com/5kQzjaO




http://imgur.com/NoDlp96


This is the tallest height


http://imgur.com/lHuF9vY


Maximum tilt


http://imgur.com/GwNabYX




http://imgur.com/f75GZMu


vertical rotation


http://imgur.com/mt5pyvf




http://imgur.com/y95T5fP


----------



## hybridxer0

The final two I were looking at were:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221233250459?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I'm assuming it's best to get a squaretrade warranty with it?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> The final two I were looking at were:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> and
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221233250459?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> I'm assuming it's best to get a squaretrade warranty with it?


People do rate the Square trade policy who have had to use it!...Which is why i took out a Square trade policy on my monitor with there UK branch


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> The final two I were looking at were:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> and
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221233250459?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> I'm assuming it's best to get a squaretrade warranty with it?


Get the X-Star. I wouldn't bother with warranty. Waste of money. You already have 1 year from the seller. If it works out of the box, it should be fine until the foreseeable future


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Get the X-Star. I wouldn't bother with warranty. Waste of money. You already have 1 year from the seller. If it works out of the box, it should be fine until the foreseeable future


Your 1 year warranty from the seller is worthless after a few weeks!... As after that point then it is down to you to pay for return shipping which is not cheap at all!...Which makes the Square trade policy more appealing .


----------



## hybridxer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Get the X-Star. I wouldn't bother with warranty. Waste of money. You already have 1 year from the seller. If it works out of the box, it should be fine until the foreseeable future


I will get the X-Star then!

If there is an issue with the monitor (DOA or something major) don't customers have to pay to ship it back to Korea?


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> I will get the X-Star then!
> 
> If there is an issue with the monitor (DOA or something major) don't customers have to pay to ship it back to Korea?


Yes that was an issue for me too. Luckily at the time I bought it from "storewithstory". It said the SELLER would pay return shipping if DOA or defective on arrival, so I bought it worry free. It was the pixel perfect (max 1 dead pixel - I got zero) for about $340.

Taking that into consideration, lawson67's advice on the square trade would be applicable, if return shipping is covered


----------



## Parrelium

Hi everyone, I'm new here and have a question about overclocking my monitor.

I can't get the nvidia control panel to accept a number above 124hz. It's totally stable at 124 hz with no frame skipping, and I'd like to see how far it will go.

Do I need to download the patch in order to put in higher numbers?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Parrelium*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm new here and have a question about overclocking my monitor.
> 
> I can't get the nvidia control panel to accept a number above 124hz. It's totally stable at 124 hz with no frame skipping, and I'd like to see how far it will go.
> 
> Do I need to download the patch in order to put in higher numbers?


Hi and welcome...First Question what setup are you running as in your cards series "IE" do you have a GTX 660 or do you have a GTX500 series card or are you running in SLI etc?...Also can you show me a screen shoot of your entered 124hz in NVCP thanks...BTW going above 120hz is not necessary and you will be way above the 450mhz pixel clock limit!


----------



## Parrelium

Sure, I have a GTX 770, and here's a picture...


----------



## Parrelium




----------



## Parrelium

Umm, sorry I can't get it to paste a readable picture.. I'll give you a link to IMGUR..



http://imgur.com/leffoeS


----------



## Parrelium




----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Parrelium*


Your screen shot Above seems to show a valid solid block on the bottom row yet a break in the blocks with 2 block skipped and 2 on the line above and the test is not near the end of the screen ready to write blocks to the row above?...Normally it should look like this as mine does in the picture below!....Also you say that you can not enter anything above 124hz!....Well your screen shot clearly shows a test for 144hz which i can assure you would not be a valid refresh rate...Also you may not need the patch using the GTX770 however some have found that they need to reach 120hz!

Also test that your refresh rate can be seen by your games by loading a game that you know you can achieve over 60fps in and then set Vsync and see if your frames go over 60fps!...If they do your custom refresh rate is being seen by your games....However you will need the monitor driver below to allow your game to see your custom refresh rates.




Qnix monitor Driver

qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## Parrelium

How do you install that driver. I get 'the third party INF does not contain digital signature information'


----------



## Mahalak

I've been fiddling with my monitor today as I got my shorter and hopefully better quality cable, as well as with the timings of the monitor.
Using timings other peoples posted and trial and error I was able to make 110hz work seemingly flawlessly with the below settings, question is, are these okay/safe to use, I admit I know not a lick about what exactly I'm setting here. Reducing the back porch allowed me to get rid of the discolored stripes that appeared on screen above (with the old cable) above 100hz, it can do 120hz but these stripes became more apparent again with that (no lines flickering or anything else)

thanks for any input


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Parrelium*
> 
> How do you install that driver. I get 'the third party INF does not contain digital signature information'


To install the Qnix monitor driver..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/


----------



## Parrelium

Thanks, got it installed. I'm incredibly happy with this monitor. Going to back it off to 120hz, and leave it there. I can't run anything I have at higher than 60ish FPS with the single card.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mahalak*
> 
> I've been fiddling with my monitor today as I got my shorter and hopefully better quality cable, as well as with the timings of the monitor.
> Using timings other peoples posted and trial and error I was able to make 110hz work seemingly flawlessly with the below settings, question is, are these okay/safe to use, I admit I know not a lick about what exactly I'm setting here. Reducing the back porch allowed me to get rid of the discolored stripes that appeared on screen above (with the old cable) above 100hz, it can do 120hz but these stripes became more apparent again with that (no lines flickering or anything else)
> 
> thanks for any input


Yes they are perfectly safe to use those timings and your pixel clock is only 426.29mhz when the chip can go up to and slightly beyond 450mhz!....My Timings below can help most people who have a 120hz capable monitor hit 120hz....However when not gaming set 60hz back on the desktop!.... AMD cards and some Nvidia cards using tight timings at 120hz are not able of downclock there ram on the desktop so you can set presets in CCC to flick over to different resolution like 60hz or 96 or even 110hz at the touch of a keystroke on the desktop which will allow your ram to downclock.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Parrelium*
> 
> Thanks, got it installed. I'm incredibly happy with this monitor. Going to back it off to 120hz, and leave it there. I can't run anything I have at higher than 60ish FPS with the single card.


Great i am really happy you are pleased with your monitor and welcome to the club


----------



## hybridxer0

Thanks for all the help guys! I am getting ready to place my X-Star order through dream-seller. As a last-ditch effort... anyone have any usable ebay coupons? lol


----------



## the9quad

Square trade warranties are 3 yrs vice the 1 year manufacturer warranty. They provide a prepaid shipping sticker. They will fix your monitor in 5 days or give you the price you paid for the monitor. Why you wouldn't buy one of these warranties as cheap as they are, I do not know.


----------



## hybridxer0

Total amount:
*-$299.90 USD*
Fee amount:
$0.00 USD
Net amount:
*-$299.90 USD*
Date:
May 5, 2014
Time:
14:26:27 PDT
Status:
*Completed*

YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!! HEEERREE WWEEEE GGOOOOO!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Square trade warranties are 3 yrs vice the 1 year manufacturer warranty. They provide a prepaid shipping sticker. They will fix your monitor in 5 days or give you the price you paid for the monitor. Why you wouldn't buy one of these warranties as cheap as they are, I do not know.


I totally agree


----------



## mokkat

I received my X-Star today, from Dream-Seller.

At the time of buying, DS had an offer on pixel perfect versions which put it at nearly the same price as the normal ones (at least for me as a European, we don't get to buy the 300$ ones), so I thought "what the hell" and ordered the pixel perfect one.
I was expecting a package with extra foam wrap and fragile sticker, but I got nervous when I received it and it had neither. Also, it didn't have that nice personal message with the cute dog that I've seen people post, but instead a rather dull sheet of "if xxx doesn't work, try xxx" info.

Luckily, when I plugged in the cables, the monitor came to life with no hickups. As advertised I might add, as it has no dead pixels and only miniscule backlight bleed in the lower left corner.







The stand might be crooked a couple of degrees to the right though, haha.

So far, my experience with this monitor has been very exciting! Coming from a Benq EW2430, the blacks do leave something to be desired, but the great colors and crisp image make the X-Star much better in most situations so far. Out of the box response time is also clearly better since the lazy Benq set the bar low.








27" 1440p is daunting for work and desktop so far, but a clear upgrade in games!

I have been playing games at random in 96hz all day, and the difference in responsiveness from 60hz is refreshing! With consistantly high framerates, games feel a a good deal different.
I think I'll leave the monitor at 96hz for the foreseeable future, as it is already making my single Gigabyte 7950 sweat and I'm pretty much satisfied as is.

lawson67, thanks for putting out that 96hz color profile for Color Sustainer. I could not get NCX's profiles to work.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mokkat*
> 
> I received my X-Star today, from Dream-Seller.
> 
> At the time of buying, DS had an offer on pixel perfect versions which put it at nearly the same price as the normal ones (at least for me as a European, we don't get to buy the 300$ ones), so I thought "what the hell" and ordered the pixel perfect one.
> I was expecting a package with extra foam wrap and fragile sticker, but I got nervous when I received it and it had neither. Also, it didn't have that nice personal message with the cute dog that I've seen people post, but instead a rather dull sheet of "if xxx doesn't work, try xxx" info.
> 
> Luckily, when I plugged in the cables, the monitor came to life with no hickups. As advertised I might add, as it has no dead pixels and only miniscule backlight bleed in the lower left corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stand might be crooked a couple of degrees to the right though, haha.
> 
> So far, my experience with this monitor has been very exciting! Coming from a Benq EW2430, the blacks do leave something to be desired, but the great colors and crisp image make the X-Star much better in most situations so far. Out of the box response time is also clearly better since the lazy Benq set the bar low.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 27" 1440p is daunting for work and desktop so far, but a clear upgrade in games!
> 
> I have been playing games at random in 96hz all day, and the difference in responsiveness from 60hz is refreshing! With consistantly high framerates, games feel a a good deal different.
> I think I'll leave the monitor at 96hz for the foreseeable future, as it is already making my single Gigabyte 7950 sweat and I'm pretty much satisfied as is.
> 
> lawson67, thanks for putting out that 96hz color profile for Color Sustainer. I could not get NCX's profiles to work.


Hi mate i am happy that you are pleased with your monitor!...I believe by far the best test to see the difference between these monitors high refresh and 60hz is for me to run a benchmark of Heaven 4.0...At 60hz it at some points heaven kind of judders making you think wow can my 2x R9 290 cards in crossfire not keep up with unigine heaven benchmark?...or do i have microshutter?...And then you flick over to 120hz and run it again and it runs as smooth as silk!

I truly believe that anyone who could see this demonstration between 60hz and 120hz or even 96hz on unigine heaven benchmark 4.0 on full screen at 1440 with Ultra textures set and 8x anti aliasing and extreme tessellation set to on or even looping Metro last light at 120hz would buy one of these monitors right now!...In fact all of my friends have by just showing them this difference alone!...These are great monitors for the price with a first rate Samsung PLS panel inside.!

BTW mokkat welcome to the club mate and glad i could help you with my ICC profiles


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

What's this 96hz color profile for Color Sustainer you guys talk about and how much of a difference does it make....?


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> What's this 96hz color profile for Color Sustainer you guys talk about and how much of a difference does it make....?


Here download the ICC profiles http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/18160#post_22215657

Yeah i would say it makes quite a difference


----------



## Gualichu04

when i try to overclock to 120hz and do a reboot windows 8 wont show any display and i have to disconnect the qnix and use my 2nd monitor to get windows to show video when booting. Why would it do that?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> when i try to overclock to 120hz and do a reboot windows 8 wont show any display and i have to disconnect the qnix and use my 2nd monitor to get windows to show video when booting. Why would it do that?


Maybe the monitor can't handle that. or your graphics card can't. I couldn't get 120Hz to work on my GTX570 but on my r9-280x I can do 120hz so far


----------



## Mahalak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes they are perfectly safe to use those timings and your pixel clock is only 426.29mhz when the chip can go up to and slightly beyond 450mhz!....My Timings below can help most people who have a 120hz capable monitor hit 120hz....However when not gaming set 60hz back on the desktop!.... AMD cards and some Nvidia cards using tight timings at 120hz are not able of downclock there ram on the desktop so you can set presets in CCC to flick over to different resolution like 60hz or 96 or even 110hz at the touch of a keystroke on the desktop which will allow your ram to downclock.


Thanks, I'll test your timings aswell when I have time.
As I was able to manage this with a 3meter cable I'm extremely satisfied with the monitor.
Pixel perfect, no backlight bleeding at all (maybe a tiny bit but you have to keep squinting at a black screen to try and find it) and OCs up to 110hz.

Hopefully I won't f*ck it up when I debezel it once I get a new stand/mount for it.


----------



## Robosama

Any UK residents bought one lately? What did you pay and what was it marked as?

Considering buying one, but if I get done by Customs it'll stitch me up.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Alrighty, went from 96Hz to 110hz stable in Desktop and Games using lawson's timings.

Haven't tried LCD reduced and 120Hz yet but happy with 110 tbh


----------



## Cozmo85

I received my HP zr22w stand today

and it came with some vesa screws. Does anyone know the recommended thread/length for the qx2710? Dont know if these are gonna be too long or big and dont have anything to measure them with.


----------



## the9quad

I've heard most screws are too long and people who just use them anyway damage the monitor be careful.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I've heard most screws are too long and people who just use them anyway damage the monitor be careful.


Thanks, guess i could just use a toothpick and see how deep i can go without hitting anything.


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Thanks, guess i could just use a toothpick and see how deep i can go without hitting anything.


Does ur hp stand pop back up when tryign to tilt it all the way down and same for the height adjustment?


----------



## Cozmo85

I havn't
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Does ur hp stand pop back up when tryign to tilt it all the way down and same for the height adjustment?


I havn't installed it yet. Will do that tonight.


----------



## kimck99

Hello,

I plan on purchasing one of these monitor but before I do that, I need to upgrade my video card. I'm currently using the onboard HD3000 video card. I use Silicondust Prime and I need a video card that supports HDCP. With that said, I've been reading the requirements that are listed on ebay from a couple of sellers for video card support and DVI-D, etc. Now I'm confused.

I am not a gamer and my needs are:

Support two monitors (one will be these monitor and the other is a Dell 24")
I don't play games but do video editing - nothing professional but just family videos
I watch HD TV from Silicondust Prime
I just need an entry level card

*QUESTION*

I see that there are several DVI-D/I/S types. Can someone simplify for me what DVI-type I need to get in a video card?
Based on the charts for NVIDIA and AMD cards, I assume that GTX600 (or higher) and Raedon HD 7000/R7 (or higher) video cards are fine?

Thanks for your reply.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Has anyone noticed any correlation between how much they paid and the quality/issues with their display ? (excluding Perfect Pixel)

I'm afraid of low-balling the sellers.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimck99*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I plan on purchasing one of these monitor but before I do that, I need to upgrade my video card. I'm currently using the onboard HD3000 video card. I use Silicondust Prime and I need a video card that supports HDCP. With that said, I've been reading the requirements that are listed on ebay from a couple of sellers for video card support and DVI-D, etc. Now I'm confused.
> 
> I am not a gamer and my needs are:
> 
> Support two monitors (one will be these monitor and the other is a Dell 24")
> I don't play games but do video editing - nothing professional but just family videos
> I watch HD TV from Silicondust Prime
> I just need an entry level card
> 
> *QUESTION*
> 
> I see that there are several DVI-D/I/S types. Can someone simplify for me what DVI-type I need to get in a video card?
> Based on the charts for NVIDIA and AMD cards, I assume that GTX600 (or higher) and Raedon HD 7000/R7 (or higher) video cards are fine?
> 
> Thanks for your reply.


Sounds like you'd be better of with the multiinput model that doesn't overclock.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Sounds like you'd be better of with the multiinput model that doesn't overclock.


Which also has significant input lag.


----------



## the9quad

I have a 30% square trade coupon if anyone needs it.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Which also has significant input lag.


they dont game it's for content and movies.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> Does ur hp stand pop back up when tryign to tilt it all the way down and same for the height adjustment?


Got it installed. It holds whatever setting perfectly..

Here is lowest height


Tallest height


Full tilt forward


And full tilt backward


----------



## Jakeey802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Has anyone noticed any correlation between how much they paid and the quality/issues with their display ? (excluding Perfect Pixel)
> 
> I'm afraid of low-balling the sellers.


I got one of the cheaper priced monitors that was on eBay for $290Aud and has no bleed and no dead pixels. Postage was exceptionally fast also.


----------



## GUNMAN296

The monitor plug is dual link dvi-d so dual link dvi i and dual link dvi d outputs both work fine. Grab a gt 640 since you said you just want an entry level card


----------



## GUNMAN296

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimck99*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I plan on purchasing one of these monitor but before I do that, I need to upgrade my video card. I'm currently using the onboard HD3000 video card. I use Silicondust Prime and I need a video card that supports HDCP. With that said, I've been reading the requirements that are listed on ebay from a couple of sellers for video card support and DVI-D, etc. Now I'm confused.
> 
> I am not a gamer and my needs are:
> 
> Support two monitors (one will be these monitor and the other is a Dell 24")
> I don't play games but do video editing - nothing professional but just family videos
> I watch HD TV from Silicondust Prime
> I just need an entry level card
> 
> *QUESTION*
> 
> I see that there are several DVI-D/I/S types. Can someone simplify for me what DVI-type I need to get in a video card?
> Based on the charts for NVIDIA and AMD cards, I assume that GTX600 (or higher) and Raedon HD 7000/R7 (or higher) video cards are fine?
> 
> Thanks for your reply.


The monitor plug is dual link dvi-d so dual link dvi i and dual link dvi d outputs both work fine. Grab a gt 640 since you said you just want an entry level card


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> they dont game it's for content and movies.


I know, but it's still a very important detail that they should be aware of.

Can someone please supply the actual dimensions of the display, including the bezel.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

glitch, please delete


----------



## iCrap

3x 1440p in portrait.... Not sure i like the bezels... The panels are debezeled so it cannot get any thinner.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Can someone please supply the actual dimensions of the display, including the bezel.


It's 25.5" W x 15.75" H, not counting the stand.

or 65 cm wide x 40cm tall.


----------



## kimck99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Sounds like you'd be better of with the multiinput model that doesn't overclock.


Hi,

I'm not sure what you mean by multi input model. Whether I overclock or not, from what I have read, for the price, these are still great monitors.

Thanks.


----------



## kimck99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GUNMAN296*
> 
> The monitor plug is dual link dvi-d so dual link dvi i and dual link dvi d outputs both work fine. Grab a gt 640 since you said you just want an entry level card


Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimck99*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by multi input model. Whether I overclock or not, from what I have read, for the price, these are still great monitors.
> 
> Thanks.


There are some that are DVI only, and they overclock; and there are other ones that have DVI, HDMI, and DP inputs, but they don't overclock.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> It's 25.5" W x 15.75" H, not counting the stand.
> 
> or 65 cm wide x 40cm tall.


Thanks a bunch for this, and wow, that's huge.


----------



## Overfiend

I spotted something last night and I was wondering if other people could check their monitors for this:

So I got really close to my monitor last night when the screen had a completely black background, and I noticed these REALLY tiny - and by tiny I mean smaller than a pixel - greenish dots or specks on the screen.

I can't see them when I am more than a foot or so away from the screen - that's how small they are.

They are there at 60, 96 and 120hz - so it isn't an OC issue.

They are also there when both GPUs are at stock, and when they are overclocked.

I don't have any dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## crone

*Notice to all potential buyers*

Do not buy a monitor from http://www.2560x1440monitor.com, I paid for this monitor 7 days ago and have heard nothing from them, I have emailed them 4 times and have had no reply, my order status has not updated. They are also known as BCCKOREA and are called *excellentcastle* on ebay.

Really not sure why they have made no contact, they have sold a lot of these screens.

I will update you if anything changes, there may be a reasonable excuse.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crone*
> 
> *Notice to all potential buyers*
> 
> Do not buy a monitor from http://www.2560x1440monitor.com, I paid for this monitor 7 days ago and have heard nothing from them, I have emailed them 4 times and have had no reply, my order status has not updated. They are also known as BCCKOREA and are called *excellentcastle* on ebay.
> 
> Really not sure why they have made no contact, they have sold a lot of these screens.
> 
> I will update you if anything changes, there may be a reasonable excuse.


My Monitor didn't ship out till 2 weeks after i bought it (different seller)

Sometimes they are just waiting on stock and don't check their email or messages

Give it another week, i understand the frustraition though


----------



## Overfiend

You shouldn't really tell everyone to not buy a monitor from them just because they have not given you an order update in those 7 days. Yeah, it is unusual, but hundreds of people have bought a monitor from them (including myself, but it was faulty and I got a full refund) and had no issues. Give them a couple more days, and if you still don't hear anything, just get your money back through ebay


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crone*
> 
> *Notice to all potential buyers*
> 
> Do not buy a monitor from http://www.2560x1440monitor.com, I paid for this monitor 7 days ago and have heard nothing from them, I have emailed them 4 times and have had no reply, my order status has not updated. They are also known as BCCKOREA and are called *excellentcastle* on ebay.
> 
> Really not sure why they have made no contact, they have sold a lot of these screens.
> 
> I will update you if anything changes, there may be a reasonable excuse.


BCC Korea is also the name of storewithstory (or at least that's the name on the one I bought from them) so many people have bought from BCC Korea with no issues. Storewithstory was excellent on their communication with me, so I don't know what's happening on your order - maybe different store fronts for the same back shop and so they have different people doing the customer service?


----------



## Yuri_RP

I also bought from BCC Korea via storewithstory, excellent communications and services. Would really recommend him. My sales rep was Bruce, as the account is managed by multiple person, need to mention the name if you want to communicate with specific person.


----------



## hybridxer0

Just got this from dream seller (i ordered the X-Star) :

Hello, thank you for your purchase.

This message regards to the purchase you made for the cover.
We heard some supply troubles going through the products from manufacturer and the shipment will be sent on this Friday. Currently we have plenty of QNIX QX2710. If you want to change it, we can ship it out right away without additional charge (QNIX QX2710 is more expensive than DP2710 as $70).Please let us know your decision.
I hope you can kindly understand that we are trying our best to serve best customer service as well as the best quality product.
I am truly sorry about the late update of this transaction.
Thank you.


----------



## llamadal

got the qnix 2710 evo 2 a month ago on ebay from accessorieswhole http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/accessorieswhole?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2754

Think I paid £220 and then when it was delivered I got hit with a £42 customs charge (have cash ready as UPS don't always wait for you to pay by card over the phone)

It arrived in 4 days from purchase, packaging was excellent, not a single dead pixel and no BLB - stand is **** but I have a sturdy table so not a problem and I can overclock to 96 hz without issue.

Well worth the money, its excellent, came from a xl2720t, the colour quality on this qx 2710 is just outstanding. I highly recommend the montior, I use it for work / bf4 / dark souls


----------



## Lazdaa

Hi Guys! Since i'm possibly selling my desktop, i was wondering: is there really no way of making the monitors work with a laptop? The only output i've got is mini HDMI, although i might buy a docking station that has DVI-I and a DP.

But as it is right now is there anything i can do to make it work?

My Laptop is a Lenovo Thnkpad Yoga with the Intel 4400 Graphics.


----------



## hybridxer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> Just got this from dream seller (i ordered the X-Star) :
> 
> Hello, thank you for your purchase.
> 
> This message regards to the purchase you made for the cover.
> We heard some supply troubles going through the products from manufacturer and the shipment will be sent on this Friday. Currently we have plenty of QNIX QX2710. If you want to change it, we can ship it out right away without additional charge (QNIX QX2710 is more expensive than DP2710 as $70).Please let us know your decision.
> I hope you can kindly understand that we are trying our best to serve best customer service as well as the best quality product.
> I am truly sorry about the late update of this transaction.
> Thank you.


Does anyone see a reason not to go with the QNIX in this case?


----------



## Yuri_RP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> Does anyone see a reason not to go with the QNIX in this case?


I believe they cost the same, unless maybe the QNIX is the one with Mutiple Input, that may have $70 difference. But with price fluctuation that might not be true also.

I don't recommend it if it's the Mutiple Input one, make sure the QNIX is the DVI-D only with Samsung PLS Panel. IMHO


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> Does anyone see a reason not to go with the QNIX in this case?


No get the Qnix they are one and the same monitor...Also you have just got yourself a cheaper monitor because i think it was you that i told the other day that the X-Star was the same monitor as a Qnix and this is why you bought an X-Star?....Anyhow you now have a Qnix at a reduced price and i call that a result!









Edit: I am sure he will send you the equivalent single input Qnix as you ordered the single input X-Star but you can ensure that he does by replying to him telling him and making sure you get the single input Qnix...However he has already offered you the equivalent!


----------



## DeathAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> when the screen had a completely black background, and I noticed these REALLY tiny - and by tiny I mean smaller than a pixel - greenish dots or specks on the screen.
> I can't see them when I am more than a foot or so away from the screen - that's how small they are.
> I don't have any dead/stuck pixels.


Yes you do.







Those are stuck pixel. They are permanently bright green subpixels. You can try something like http://www.jscreenfix.com/, but I haven't heard many people succeed in unsticking them.


----------



## digitalforce

Back from the dead -- Still loving my glossy/glass Qnix. Elder Scroll Online looks delicious maxed out!

That being said, I just got the latest Macbook Pro Retina (2880x1800!) glossy for work... OH MAN.. how I want a 27" monitor with that panel and resolution!!


----------



## Overfiend

They are too small to even be sub-pixels. When I say small, I mean like a tenth the size of a pixel...


----------



## DeathAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> They are too small to even be sub-pixels. When I say small, I mean like a tenth the size of a pixel...


Well, I expect you have measured them then?
I have a green dot on black background (also visible as a brighter dot on red) and I can not see it from my normal viewing distance of a bit more than the length of my arm. What else do you think could make that dot? Either it is dirt in which case you would not see it on black, or it is a stuck sub pixel.


----------



## Overfiend

It's not one dot, it's literally thousands of them. All over the panel. They are only visible from some angles as well - another reason i don't think they are stuck (sub) pixels. I've had a lot of monitors in the past, and know what to look for with stuck pixels... If I had to theorise, I'd probably go with microscopic bits of dust that got trapped during manufacturing. Like I said though, not a deal breaker at all. I can only see them when my face is pressed right up against the screen!


----------



## Enilder

Just got my X-Star today, and I need a stand. First post has links but not applicable for this monitor (monoprice states that it's for <27"). Anyways, I am looking for monitor stand with following capabilities:

-height adjustable
-tilt
-pivot

Thanks.


----------



## richro

I'm interested in getting a 27" 1440p monitor and this seems to be the best deal/value. I'm moving to a different city in July though, so my question is does anyone think it is worth waiting until then? Either for a better price or better model? I have a 20" LCD that I'm fine with using for a couple months if it's worth the wait.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richro*
> 
> I'm interested in getting a 27" 1440p monitor and this seems to be the best deal/value. I'm moving to a different city in July though, so my question is does anyone think it is worth waiting until then? Either for a better price or better model? I have a 20" LCD that I'm fine with using for a couple months if it's worth the wait.


Waiting isn't wise, the original single-input ones are disappearing, get one while you can.

I'm getting mine as soon as I can, which is in a few weeks.


----------



## Hand_Grenade

Hey all im debating on buying a second Qnix or X-Star monitor, but I have not been able to find any glossy versions out there.

Is there a big difference if I get temper glass instead of glossy?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enilder*
> 
> Just got my X-Star today, and I need a stand. First post has links but not applicable for this monitor (monoprice states that it's for <27"). Anyways, I am looking for monitor stand with following capabilities:
> 
> -height adjustable
> -tilt
> -pivot
> 
> Thanks.


http://www.amazon.com/HP-LA961AA-ZR22W-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00HES611S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399130803&sr=8-1&keywords=zr22w+stand

Fits perfect but isn't tall enough for portrait.


----------



## Enilder

Nice find! I wish I can find this one...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/3730#post_20298237


----------



## Jakeey802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> Hey all im debating on buying a second Qnix or X-Star monitor, but I have not been able to find any glossy versions out there.
> 
> Is there a big difference if I get temper glass instead of glossy?


There's some glossy ones one eBay, I'll source the link when I jump on my PC for you.

I prefer the tempered glass ones over the glossy as it reflects wayyyyyy too much in the sun.

Edit: Turns out my seller doesn't have glossy ones anymore
Glossy:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DPORT-27-Slim-Monitor-Glossy-/141021389476?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d587a2a4&_uhb=1


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Do all of the 3rd party stands require you to remove the bezel from the Qnix ?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enilder*
> 
> Just got my X-Star today, and I need a stand. First post has links but not applicable for this monitor (monoprice states that it's for <27"). Anyways, I am looking for monitor stand with following capabilities:
> 
> -height adjustable
> -tilt
> -pivot
> 
> Thanks.


By all reports the Monoprice one fits even though it says <27".


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Do all of the 3rd party stands require you to remove the bezel from the Qnix ?


The qnix has the vesa holes right on the back. Removing the bezel is required to remove the factory stand.

Also its easy as ****, just use a guitar pick or old credit card and you wont damage anything.


----------



## Zelo

Just ordered a couple of Qnix's.. pretty excited coming from TN panels my whole life.


----------



## Lazdaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> Hey all im debating on buying a second Qnix or X-Star monitor, but I have not been able to find any glossy versions out there.
> 
> Is there a big difference if I get temper glass instead of glossy?


Personally i would not buy a temper glass version, as i've seen plenty of them where the glass was shattered or something was between the glass and the LCD itself.

Would rather go with a matte which i got myself.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> Is there a big difference if I get temper glass instead of glossy?


Glass makes blacks look gray, is far more reflective than a glossy coating and the tempered glass versions are usually matte monitors with glass placed over top.


----------



## Robosama

Just ordered a Qnix from "bigclothcraft", seemed to be one of the few who want to help buyers. Was only about £25 more than the cheapest Qnix, but if that means I don't have to pay a lot more out in customs it's all good


----------



## monkeytommo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazdaa*
> 
> Personally i would not buy a temper glass version, as i've seen plenty of them where the glass was shattered or something was between the glass and the LCD itself.
> 
> Would rather go with a matte which i got myself.


Oh man! I just bought this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121089977041?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 - It's tempered glass! I thought tempered glass and matte were the same! DOH! Is there really that much of a difference? I game and am a photographer... Is this going to make a huge difference to me? As reference, I'm coming from a Hanns G HZ221 1680x1050 - I'm guessing this new one's going to look better than that, if so, I'm happy (but I have to say, the colours on my Hanns G are pretty good considering the price I paid for it a few years ago!).

Thanks for your help.


----------



## DiceAir

So I'm going to a friends house this weekend and I know this is a weird question but do you guys think it's safe traveling with this monitor? I'm just scared it might break the monitor or shift any component giving me dead pixels or dead or back light bleed. I'm sure it will be fine but the stand is also not sturdy enough to convince me in traveling with it.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So I'm going to a friends house this weekend and I know this is a weird question but do you guys think it's safe traveling with this monitor? I'm just scared it might break the monitor or shift any component giving me dead pixels or dead or back light bleed. I'm sure it will be fine but the stand is also not sturdy enough to convince me in traveling with it.


I'm guessing you didn't keep the box and styrofoam that came with it?

If not, then i'd suggest wrapping it in a blanket and putting a seatbelt around it, works great for me









Also........Always keep boxes


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> I'm guessing you didn't keep the box and styrofoam that came with it?
> 
> If not, then i'd suggest wrapping it in a blanket and putting a seatbelt around it, works great for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also........Always keep boxes


Yes I did keep the box so that's an option. It came in the original box with nothing covering the box itself just the styrofoam and some bubble wrap. i'm just scared the screen might shift or so on and then I sit with back light bleed etc etc.


----------



## phygar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Yes I did keep the box so that's an option. It came in the original box with nothing covering the box itself just the styrofoam and some bubble wrap. i'm just scared the screen might shift or so on and then I sit with back light bleed etc etc.


When I travel with my monitors I either strap a piece of cardboard or plexiglass over the screen, or I wrap it with bubble wrap


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phygar*
> 
> When I travel with my monitors I either strap a piece of cardboard or plexiglass over the screen, or I wrap it with bubble wrap


I will be taking another monitor with me. and leave this one at home. Better safe than sorry


----------



## hybridxer0

ugh...I thought I had a dual link DVI cable*, but all i have is a single link. Does anyone know the best place to get an inexpensive one?


----------



## phygar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> ugh...I thought I had a dual link DVI cable*, but all i have is a single link. Does anyone know the best place to get an inexpensive one?


monoprice


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> ugh...I thought I had a dual link DVI cable*, but all i have is a single link. Does anyone know the best place to get an inexpensive one?


You can not get a cheaper Duel link DVI-D cable than the one that comes free with your monitor when it arrives!

And they are not total crap there half decent Quality


----------



## jdstock76

Does anyone here use 2x 660ti's, 760's, or 770's in SLI with this monitor? Curious how the frames are in BF4.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Does anyone here use 2x 660ti's, 760's, or 770's in SLI with this monitor? Curious how the frames are in BF4.


I used to have 2x Asus GTX660 *non TI* in SLI and i could run Tomb Raider 4 with Ulta textures on and set Vsync set @ 120hz and could sustain 120fps 95% of the time!..In fact here where my settings below that i used for Tomb Raider 4 with my GTX660 cards and you will clearly see my FPS in the top right hand corner!

BF4 on high settings would average i would say around 70FPS



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## savy4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I think it's the HDMI, I have the same setup (though 780TI) and the multi version I am using Displayport without issue.


Sorry it took so long to reply, had to order the cable. Problem solved!! Thank you!!! Also running the new 6gb version on the 780, screaming fast!


----------



## Greyhame888

Hello everyone,

I recently picked up a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II, and I'm in love with it. There are no dead pixels and no backlight bleed, it's beautiful. Unfortunately, I have hit a snag.

Here are my specs:
-i7 4770k OC @4.4GHz
-XFX HD7970 Double D GHz Edition in Crossfire (main card)
-ASUS R9 280X Direct CU II in Crossfire ( slave card)
-16gb Corsair Dominator Pro ram

Anyway, here's the problem. I followed the OC guide in this thread. I patched my drivers, ran the CRU, etc. I made 3 profiles, 96Hz, 110Hz, and 120Hz. I restarted, then tried them. I used Catalyst Control Center to apply them. 120 gives massive amounts of green lines, but 110 works beautifully.

So then I tried blurbusters test, but it says my Frame rate is 60fps and my Refresh Rate is 60 Hz. ***?

Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## zeppelin2k

Hey everyone. I'm considering making the upgrade to the QNIX 27" monitor, but I still want the functionality of dual monitors. I was considering doing a PL setup, with the QNIX in portrait and another secondary monitor in portrait. Does anyone have experience (or pictures) with a setup like this? I'm concerned about finding a suitable vertical monitor, one with correct dimensions, and preferably IPS to display well in portrait. Maybe a 19" 1440x900 would work (but I can't seem to find the vertical height of the QNIX without stand anwhere)? Anyone use something like this? I feel it would be the perfect combination of functionality and aesthetics. Thanks!

Alternatively, I could ask... what's a good option for a secondary monitor with the 27" that would look good?


----------



## Jakeey802

I ordered a cable not knowing it came with one and turns out it wouldn't fit xD so was forced to use the one that came with it anyway


----------



## Overfiend

I use sli 760 2gb with a Qnix @100hz.

I have v-sync off (lower input lag for online gaming) and I get pretty much a constant 100fps.

I have max settings, apart from 2xMSAA and SSAO instead of HBAO


----------



## Jakeey802

Does anyone know how to get CS:GO to 1440P? I can only get it to do 1920x1080 ):


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Does anyone know how to get CS:GO to 1440P? I can only get it to do 1920x1080 ):


Try adding -h 1440 -w 2560 to the lauch options for CS:GO through steam. Can't vouch for that personally, but it should work.

To get to launch options, right click on the CS:GO icon, select properties and it should be on the general tab.


----------



## Overfiend

Can anyone recommend a decent power brick replacement? I don't trust the one that came with it...


----------



## Jakeey802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Try adding -h 1440 -w 2560 to the lauch options for CS:GO through steam. Can't vouch for that personally, but it should work.
> 
> To get to launch options, right click on the CS:GO icon, select properties and it should be on the general tab.


Already tried that but goes back to 1080P )':


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Already tried that but goes back to 1080P )':


Have you installed the Qnix driver??


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Already tried that but goes back to 1080P )':


Tried reseting the config file to default (cut it into a different location so you can restore it just in case)?
After you have done that, verify the game files through steam and see if that makes any difference.


----------



## Osteoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Does anyone here use 2x 660ti's, 760's, or 770's in SLI with this monitor? Curious how the frames are in BF4.


I have two EVGA 770 GTXs (4GB) in SLI and run over 90-100 FPS maxed out except AA usually off or at the lowest setting. I havn't checked it in a while though with the newest drivers.


----------



## phygar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Does anyone know how to get CS:GO to 1440P? I can only get it to do 1920x1080 ):


try changing the aspect ratio then changing it back


----------



## Jakeey802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Have you installed the Qnix driver??


Indeed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Tried reseting the config file to default (cut it into a different location so you can restore it just in case)?
> After you have done that, verify the game files through steam and see if that makes any difference.


Didn't seem to do anything ):
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phygar*
> 
> try changing the aspect ratio then changing it back


Get a black screen in game )':


----------



## DiceAir

Can 120hz or to high hertz with to low pixel clock cause pc to freeze when playing games or under load? I played a game and could only do 60hz and it was fine for like many hours but then I played BF3 and bf4 and only couple of minutes and my game freezes. it's running 120hz when playing bf4. I played for a while on 96hz and all seems fine now so far. will have to test a bit more


----------



## phygar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Indeed
> Didn't seem to do anything ):
> Get a black screen in game )':


I just flip the dropdown to something then put it back on 16:9 and then then 2560x1440 was in the resolutions for me


----------



## HuwSharpe

Anyone have any good 1440P YouTube video links to share for showing off the Qnix?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuwSharpe*
> 
> Anyone have any good 1440P YouTube video links to share for showing off the Qnix?






Tons like it...

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=qnix&tbm=vid


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Anyone have any good *1440P* YouTube video links to share for showing off the Qnix?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*


Lol....misunderstood.


----------



## HuwSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuwSharpe*
> 
> Anyone have any good 1440P YouTube video links to share for showing off the Qnix?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Tons like it...
> 
> https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=qnix&tbm=vid


You miss understand me, i didnt mean videos of people talking about their Qnix, i own one, rather i meant videos to demo its super quality, in large for when people say "can you even tell better than 1080". =)


----------



## Strat79

Best bet is to find non youtube videos that haven't been compressed much. I have one of Terminator 2 from a blue ray rip that only like 3 minutes but is over 2GB's in size. You can find them if you look hard enough.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HuwSharpe*
> 
> You miss understand me, i didnt mean videos of people talking about their Qnix, i own one, rather i meant videos to demo its super quality, in large for when people say "can you even tell better than 1080". =)


Best bet is to look on this forum for the smooth video project guide. Than play a non compressed video file for them at 120hz using SVP.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a decent power brick replacement? I don't trust the one that came with it...


You wont find a better power brick replacement for your Qnix than this which is made by channel well technology who are the OEM manufacturer for Corsair PSU...I also replaced my Qnix power brick with this as it was getting very warm/hot...This by far better much Quality all around and you know that you are getting clean correctly regulated voltage to your Qnix!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-CWT-12V-5A-60W-Power-Supply-P-N-CAD060121-For-TVs-/390276288001?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item5ade478e01


----------



## ABADY

can the dpmulti oc to 96hz with no problems ? if i used a hdmi to dvi cable will it works with the single input monitor?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABADY*
> 
> can the dpmulti oc to 96hz with no problems ? if i used a hdmi to dvi cable will it works with the single input monitor?


Multi-input Korean monitors cannot OC without dropping frames. HDMI to DVI will most likely not work with the single input monitor as those have a dual-link DVI input, while HDMI to DVI adapters are only single link. One member, a few pages back, has succeeded in getting 2560x1440 60Hz in some way with a single link connection, but I'm unsure of the details, so you might want to check that out to be sure.


----------



## ABADY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Multi-input Korean monitors cannot OC without dropping frames. HDMI to DVI will most likely not work with the single input monitor as those have a dual-link DVI input, while HDMI to DVI adapters are only single link. One member, a few pages back, has succeeded in getting 2560x1440 60Hz in some way with a single link connection, but I'm unsure of the details, so you might want to check that out to be sure.


can you link me to the page or the post please


----------



## zeppelin2k

Anyone here miss having a secondary monitor? If so, what do you use for a secondary that looks nice/fits the bezel? I was considering a PL/PLP setup, but it's hard to match the 27" size.


----------



## Bender16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppelin2k*
> 
> Anyone here miss having a secondary monitor? If so, what do you use for a secondary that looks nice/fits the bezel? I was considering a PL/PLP setup, but it's hard to match the 27" size.


Just today I was wondering the same and I was also very interested in a PLP setup. Did some research and found someone that just did that! Here's the imgur album


http://imgur.com/g1aDJ

. It's the setup from Jotokun on reddit.

The monitors he's using are Dell 1708FPT's (1708FP is the same model afaik). They come with a monitor stand that supports the swivel feature so you can easily put it in portrait mode. The monitors have a resolution of 1280x1024, but it's possible to run them at 1152x1440 with a custom resolution. Apparently the image looks a bit fuzzy then so I don't know how well that works.

Anyways, the 1708fpt seems to match extremely well from the size and they are surprisingly cheap! I bought 2 of them for around 45 USD each (used), but I live in Germany. Your best bet is to check ebay I guess, that's where I got mine from.


----------



## zeppelin2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bender16*
> 
> Just today I was wondering the same and I was also very interested in a PLP setup. Did some research and found someone that just did that! Here's the imgur album
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/g1aDJ
> 
> . It's the setup from Jotokun on reddit.
> 
> The monitors he's using are Dell 1708FPT's (1708FP is the same model afaik). They come with a monitor stand that supports the swivel feature so you can easily put it in portrait mode. The monitors have a resolution of 1280x1024, but it's possible to run them at 1152x1440 with a custom resolution. Apparently the image looks a bit fuzzy then so I don't know how well that works.
> 
> Anyways, the 1708fpt seems to match extremely well from the size and they are surprisingly cheap! I bought 2 of them for around 45 USD each (used), but I live in Germany. Your best bet is to check ebay I guess, that's where I got mine from.


Good find, I've seen that one around before. The actual panel matches perfectly, but I wish I could find a monitor that matched the bezel too. I'm a bit worried about the 'fuzzy' image he described though, but I may not even use the side panel for games (just as a secondary monitor, so it might not be a big deal). I guess I'm worried about the custom resolution, so if anyone has some more experience with that, it would be appreciated!


----------



## DiceAir

Anyone know why sudenly today I can't do 120hz wen gaming anymore. I tested BF4 and for some reason can't get my monitor to do 120hz without getting green lines. I'm using lcd reduced and tight timings. Anyway do you guys think I should rather go back to 110Hz. i noticed bf4 feels slugish with 96hz and I have been feeling that for a very long time. It seems like if the frametime is a bove 10 then it feels like frame skipping or something like that. like it's not putting out even frames or so.

So far 110hz is fine maybe this one graphics card can't do 110Hz. The old card could do it but even on 60hz desktop it will give me green lines but in gaming it's fine. So should I just run it 110Hz in gaming 24/7?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Anyone know why sudenly today I can't do 120hz wen gaming anymore. I tested BF4 and for some reason can't get my monitor to do 120hz without getting green lines. I'm using lcd reduced and tight timings. Anyway do you guys think I should rather go back to 110Hz. i noticed bf4 feels slugish with 96hz and I have been feeling that for a very long time. It seems like if the frametime is a bove 10 then it feels like frame skipping or something like that. like it's not putting out even frames or so.
> 
> So far 110hz is fine maybe this one graphics card can't do 110Hz. The old card could do it but even on 60hz desktop it will give me green lines but in gaming it's fine. So should I just run it 110Hz in gaming 24/7?


Try my 120hz timings below they will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz where as LCD reduced at 120hz will give you a pixel clock of about 469mhz so you will not be getting such a strong signal and therefore this could be the reason for Green scan lines and artefacts as you are nearly 20mhz above the 450mhz pixel clock limit!

Also you could try just running 110hz 24/7 by just setting 110hz and LCD Standard timings in CRU!....This will also allow your cards ram to downclock on the desktop and there's not much if any noticeable difference between 120hz and 110hz anyhow!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Try my 120hz timings below they will bring your pixel clock down to 459mhz where as LCD reduced at 120hz will give you a pixel clock of about 469mhz so you will not be getting such a strong signal and therefore this could be the reason for Green scan lines and artefacts as you are nearly 20mhz above the 450mhz pixel clock limit!
> 
> Also you could try just running 110hz 24/7 by just setting 110hz and LCD Standard timings in CRU!....This will also allow your cards ram to downclock on the desktop and there's not much if any noticeable difference between 120hz and 110hz anyhow!


I've decided to stick with 110Hz and 96Hz for now. It's good enough for me now. I want to go 120hz but it's not worth the headaches for me now. I have to many other issues to worry about getting 120hz now. one of my cards just decided to not work properly anymore so I have to sort that out now


----------



## Robosama

Looks like I'm getting mine today. Paid £220 delivered from "bigclothcraft" (when I was messaging sellers about customs duty that was one of the few replies, they didn't want me to pay extra money for EMS shipping like other sellers. As far as I know it was marked gift around the 50 USD value, I've only had to pay £14 "Duty and VAT" (which I got a text about an hour ago, wasn't expecting it, but better than if it were marked as full value).

So now we wait, it's with the delivery courier.


----------



## jokrik

Has anyone tried using
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111164926510?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
for the vesa on QNIX?

I'm looking for an affordable one from ebay? can anyone suggest me one?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Has anyone tried using
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/111164926510?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> for the vesa on QNIX?
> 
> I'm looking for an affordable one from ebay? can anyone suggest me one?


I have the zr22w stand for my Qnix. Its extremely better than the Qnix stand and it feels more sturdy and has better build quality. Its also aesthetically nice.
Costs $20~$35 depending on where you get it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA961AA-NEW-HP-ZR22w-21-5-LCD-Column-Monitor-Base-Stand-583847-001-647941-001-/360929828989?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item540918207d

http://www.amazon.com/HP-LA961AA-ZR22W-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00HES611S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399902265&sr=8-1&keywords=zr22+staND

Keep in mind that because its a 22" stand, most of the time you cant lift it up in height. It'll slide back down since the Qnix is a 27" monitor. But it doesn't bother me because i like it at the lowest height.

edit: pics:



http://imgur.com/xa3T7gJ




http://imgur.com/5kQzjaO




http://imgur.com/NoDlp96




http://imgur.com/lHuF9vY




http://imgur.com/GwNabYX




http://imgur.com/y95T5fP


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I have the zr22w stand for my Qnix. Its extremely better than the Qnix stand and it feels more sturdy and has better build quality. Its also aesthetically nice.
> Costs $20~$35 depending on where you get it.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA961AA-NEW-HP-ZR22w-21-5-LCD-Column-Monitor-Base-Stand-583847-001-647941-001-/360929828989?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item540918207d
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/HP-LA961AA-ZR22W-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00HES611S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399902265&sr=8-1&keywords=zr22+staND
> 
> Keep in mind that because its a 22" stand, most of the time you cant lift it up in height. It'll slide back down since the Qnix is a 27" monitor. But it doesn't bother me because i like it at the lowest height.
> 
> edit: pics:


lol that ebay link lead me to 99$ shipping to my country
guess I'll have to stick with that Shimian
thx for the link and help


----------



## dpl2007

Considering one of these...how do they stack up against gsync monitors? I mean if your game is changing FPS all the time surely it gets a bit weird looking sometimes? Or of the FPS is over the refresh like 120 plus no? Thanks.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> lol that ebay link lead me to 99$ shipping to my country
> guess I'll have to stick with that Shimian
> thx for the link and help


no problem









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Considering one of these...how do they stack up against gsync monitors? I mean if your game is changing FPS all the time surely it gets a bit weird looking sometimes? Or of the FPS is over the refresh like 120 plus no? Thanks.


I haven't tried G-Sync monitor, but I can tell you that unless its a severe FPS drop (ie: below 50), its all good.
I don't mind the fluctuation between 70-120. It doesn't bother me at all.
Having constant FPS is nice though. I wonder when that free sync thing will happen.


----------



## hybridxer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> You can not get a cheaper Duel link DVI-D cable than the one that comes free with your monitor when it arrives!
> 
> And they are not total crap there half decent Quality


Yay!!

I just got my QNIX 2710 (though I ordered the X-Star, but they were out of stock)! I will connect and let you know!


----------



## hybridxer0

From unbox to install:


----------



## tietherope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> From unbox to install:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the pics. What screen are you coming from? Are you happy with what you see so far?
I've had my finger hovering around the buy button for a few days now.


----------



## hybridxer0

I was coming from an asus 23" that I absolutely loved, but then it died. I had replaced it with an old 19" lying around... but this... this is no comparison. I was like you hovering, waiting...asking the wife for permission.







Finally got the all-clear, then booyakasha!


----------



## tietherope

Alright, I placed an order. Let's give this a shot.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> Alright, I placed an order. Let's give this a shot.


Which one did you order ?


----------



## tietherope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Which one did you order ?


I bought the matte X-Star from dream-seller (not perfect pixel). I imagine they have it in stock now.


----------



## Rmerwede

Hi All!

Driven myself crazy lately with all the monitor research. Was gonna hold out for ROG Swift, but its TN, expensive, G-Sync still has issues etc... Can anyone recommend a good seller? Would like to get from Amazon. Also any recommendations on which model, perfect pixel, etc. would be helpful. Trying to avoid *excessive* PWM, bleeding, coil whine. Looking for Glossy/Glass. I figure at this price, you really can't go wrong.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*


Is it just me, or is the top part of the bezel curved/bent down slightly ?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rmerwede*
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> Driven myself crazy lately with all the monitor research. Was gonna hold out for ROG Swift, but its TN, expensive, G-Sync still has issues etc... Can anyone recommend a good seller? Would like to get from Amazon. Also any recommendations on which model, perfect pixel, etc. would be helpful. Trying to avoid *excessive* PWM, bleeding, coil whine. Looking for Glossy/Glass. I figure at this price, you really can't go wrong.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I would look at the info in the start of this thread you can see sellers and they say pixel perfect is not worth it. I'm in the same position as you g sync has problems? I've not seen that also I see people saying the rog is a very good tn maybe the best so far...hard to choose...someone recommended this to me seller wise: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13999243211886&key=942623bb56b8a57a0f6a6ac786049e96&libId=d35ca497-2ab8-40b0-8adf-a98fb094162b&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Ft%2F1488842%2Fqnix-duty-etc%23post_22253787&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5337413396%26toolid%3D10001%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FMatte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-2560-x-1440-WQHD-27-Monitor-%252F221362461331%253Fpt%253DComputer_Monitors%2526hash%253Ditem338a3b1a93&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fusers%2Fsubscriptions&title=qnix%20duty%20etc.%20%3F&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FMatte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-2560-x-1440-WQHD-27-Monitor-%2F221362461331%3Fpt%3DComputer_Moni...


----------



## Rmerwede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> I would look at the info in the start of this thread you can see sellers and they say pixel perfect is not worth it. I'm in the same position as you g sync has problems? I've not seen that also I see people saying the rog is a very good tn maybe the best so far...hard to choose...someone recommended this to me seller wise: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13999243211886&key=942623bb56b8a57a0f6a6ac786049e96&libId=d35ca497-2ab8-40b0-8adf-a98fb094162b&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Ft%2F1488842%2Fqnix-duty-etc%23post_22253787&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5337413396%26toolid%3D10001%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FMatte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-2560-x-1440-WQHD-27-Monitor-%252F221362461331%253Fpt%253DComputer_Monitors%2526hash%253Ditem338a3b1a93&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fusers%2Fsubscriptions&title=qnix%20duty%20etc.%20%3F&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FMatte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-2560-x-1440-WQHD-27-Monitor-%2F221362461331%3Fpt%3DComputer_Moni...


Thanks for the info!

I saw some good sellers, but they all say Matte. Is there a way to tell the light matte from the heavy matte? Also, did we ever find out if there is coating under the tempered glass? The only glossy I can find is $600+.

Any info is appreciated!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> From unbox to install:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hey looks great and let me know if you need any help with the overclocking!....Also welcome to the club hybridxer0









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> I would look at the info in the start of this thread you can see sellers and they say pixel perfect is not worth it. I'm in the same position as you g sync has problems? I've not seen that also I see people saying the rog is a very good tn maybe the best so far...hard to choose...someone recommended this to me seller wise: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13999243211886&key=942623bb56b8a57a0f6a6ac786049e96&libId=d35ca497-2ab8-40b0-8adf-a98fb094162b&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Ft%2F1488842%2Fqnix-duty-etc%23post_22253787&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5337413396%26toolid%3D10001%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FMatte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-2560-x-1440-WQHD-27-Monitor-%252F221362461331%253Fpt%253DComputer_Monitors%2526hash%253Ditem338a3b1a93&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fusers%2Fsubscriptions&title=qnix%20duty%20etc.%20%3F&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FMatte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-2560-x-1440-WQHD-27-Monitor-%2F221362461331%3Fpt%3DComputer_Moni...


There are sellers who have been shown to consistently supply there advertised Ultimate pixel perfect monitor which have arrived with no dead pixels!... For people who believe they could simply can not live with one dead pixel.... and i was one of them then they should take a look at these sellers Ultimate pixel perfect monitors!...storewithstory.....excellentcastle.....accessorieswhole.....However It has also been shown that people have got pixel perfect monitors buying random ones!


----------



## Commiekaze

Hello, I just got the QNIX QX2710 today and cannot seem to overclock it. No matter what I do, it keeps showing 60hz in the motion tests. Both my control panel and NVIDIA CP show 96hz and I have done both the CRU route as well as the monitor driver update. Any ideas?

Edit: After a bunch of resets and reboots it seems that the website tests (like UFO) keep showing 60hz but on the desktop and even in game it lets me set the monitor to 96hz. However, Im not sure if it actually working. Either way, sweet monitor, looks amazing!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> Hello, I just got the QNIX QX2710 today and cannot seem to overclock it. No matter what I do, it keeps showing 60hz in the motion tests. Both my control panel and NVIDIA CP show 96hz and I have done both the CRU route as well as the monitor driver update. Any ideas?
> 
> Edit: After a bunch of resets and reboots it seems that the website tests (like UFO) keep showing 60hz but on the desktop and even in game it lets me set the monitor to 96hz. However, Im not sure if it actually working. Either way, sweet monitor, looks amazing!


Try using Google chrome and make sure "Use hardware acceleration when available" is checked in chromes advanced settings


----------



## MelonSplitter

Are all Qnix 2710's only labeled as Evolution II? The reason for asking is because nowhere on my monitor is there labeling with Evolution II.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Has anyone got GSync to work with it, well the DIY version of gsync...


----------



## tietherope

Just received this email yet their Ebay listing is still up. Guess it would apply to the Qnix as well? What to do? This new offer can't overclock I imagine as it has HDMI. Does anyone know a seller that for sure has them. I had been debating this for months and really want one.

Hi, this is dream-seller

Thank you very much for prchasing our DP2710 PLS.

Unfortunately we just informed from manufacture that the supply for DP2710 PLS will be delayed indefinitely.
We are truly sorry about that. Therefore we would like to suggest UPGRADING your DP2710 PLS to DP2710 Multi True10 for FREE.
Please let us know your decision as soon as possible.

DP2710 PLS Spec
- Panel : samsung pls
- Resolution : 2560 * 1440
- Response Rate : 8ms
- Input : Dual Link DVI-D

DP2710 Multi Ture 10 Spec (http://www.ebay.com/itm/331180242313)
- Panel : AH-VA
- Resolution : 2560 * 1440
- Response Rate : 8ms
- Input : Dual Link DVI-D, HDMI
- Virtual 4K
- Eye Protection (Low Blue Light, Flicker-Free)
- Anti-Glare


----------



## hybridxer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Is it just me, or is the top part of the bezel curved/bent down slightly ?


nope, just my poor photography


----------



## hybridxer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hey looks great and let me know if you need any help with the overclocking!....Also welcome to the club hybridxer0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are sellers who have been shown to consistently supply there advertised Ultimate pixel perfect monitor which have arrived with no dead pixels!... For people who believe they could simply can not live with one dead pixel.... and i was one of them then they should take a look at these sellers Ultimate pixel perfect monitors!...storewithstory.....excellentcastle.....accessorieswhole.....However It has also been shown that people have got pixel perfect monitors buying random ones!


Well, I have not been successful in overclocking and had some weird stuttering issues during cinematics in Tomb Raider, but otherwise no issues.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> Just received this email yet their Ebay listing is still up. Guess it would apply to the Qnix as well? What to do? This new offer can't overclock I imagine as it has HDMI. Does anyone know a seller that for sure has them. I had been debating this for months and really want one.
> 
> Hi, this is dream-seller
> 
> Thank you very much for prchasing our DP2710 PLS.
> 
> Unfortunately we just informed from manufacture that the supply for DP2710 PLS will be delayed indefinitely.
> We are truly sorry about that. Therefore we would like to suggest UPGRADING your DP2710 PLS to DP2710 Multi True10 for FREE.
> Please let us know your decision as soon as possible.


The True 10 multi-input is a downgrade due to 2 seconds 2 frames of input lag and frameskipping past 60hz.

Also, if what they said is true then people will be scrambling to get the single input ones.

I'm not ordering mine until May 23rd, but it may be too late.


----------



## CoolRonZ

Well downgrade or not, I love my QX2710 DPMulti true10, its got amazing colors and contrast. and tons of input options.... but what it doesn't have is 2 seconds of input lag.... do you realize how much lag 2 seconds is? lol


----------



## jakomocha

Hey guys, I'm building a new computer and I'm totally new to all of this. You can check out my current specs here:
PCPartPicker part list /
*CPU:* Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $320.00 @ eBay) ✓
*CPU Cooler:* Cooler Master Seidon 120V 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Micro Center)
*Motherboard:* MSI Z87 MPOWER ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $150.00) ✓
*Memory:* A-Data XPG V2 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (Purchased For $69.99 @ Newegg) ✓
*Storage:* Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Best Buy)
*Storage:* Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($126.42 @ Amazon)
*Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Dual Classified ACX Video Card (Purchased For $534.99 @ eBay) ✓
*Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $90.00 @Newegg) ✓
*Power Supply:* Antec HCG M 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
*Optical Drive:* Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For [email protected] Newegg) ✓
*Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) (Purchased For $15.00 @ Reddit) ✓
*Monitor:* QNIX QX2710 Perfect Pixel 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($300.00)
*Case Fan:* Cougar Vortex PWM 70.5 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $5.00 @ Newegg) ✓
*Total:* $1859.90
*Check mark means I've already purcahsed it.

Anyways, the monitor (Qnix) is just placeholder because X-Star is not on PCPartPicker. Can any of you guys direct me towards links for your recommended monitor on eBay? I think I'll go with the Matte version, and I found this model which seems too good to be true. It says it has a response time of 4ms, however does not mention anywhere if it is matte or not. Is that actually legit, or just an error?

Thanks!


----------



## monkeytommo

Hey all.

I was wondering if anyone could help me. I've used CRU to set my monitor to 120Hz and it's stable, even confirmed this when taking a 1/5th of a second photo with my DSLR of that test page... Continuous image of cubes with the two end ones being slightly less solid than the others.

So, that's all cool and stuff, what the problem is (and maybe this is because I have good eyesight), basically I can see vertical lines across the screen. I was wondering if this is a common issue? I am running an i7 3770k and a GTX680 (will be using SLi in the next few days, waiting on a new PSU). That should be ok to run 120Hz, right? Also, 60Hz is the only refresh rate that I can run that doesn't have these line... As I increase the Hz incrementally they get more noticeable. Not sure what I'm doing with the manual settings, so I kinda just left them alone. Anyone got any tips?

Games look great because they are in motion, desktop looks like poop.

(Side note - I have the QNIX, Tempered Glass, and have Installed the Nvidia Patch (Not the SLi one yet, just the regular one))


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolRonZ*
> 
> Well downgrade or not, I love my QX2710 DPMulti true10, its got amazing colors and contrast. and tons of input options.... but what it doesn't have is 2 seconds of input lag.... do you realize how much lag 2 seconds is? lol


Yes, there are extensive reviews that show the input lag amount which equates to about 2 frames due to the scaler needed for the HDMI input and most people here find it unacceptable.

Go roll your eyes somewhere else.

Edit - I meant to say two frames....


----------



## jakomocha

Okay, I think I'll get this X-star. Should I go for it? Is this there best $300-$400 1440p matte monitor in terms of gaming?


----------



## blitzed604

Somebody mentioned earlier that they wanted to replace the power brick with a better quality one, but that link was for the UK does anyone have one for Canada/US i also dont trust the power brick that will come with mine. How many of you are using the original power brick? are any of you using a third party one instead? is there anyway to measure how "clean" the power of the stock power brick is outputting?

My unit is sitting in alaska shipping to ferndale and then ill drive it over the border hopefully without having to pay duty!


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Okay, I think I'll get this X-star. Should I go for it? Is this there best $300-$400 1440p matte monitor in terms of gaming?


I see nothing wrong with it and there's nothing better.


----------



## jakomocha

Alright, thanks. It's got an 8ms response time, right? Is that really _that_ bad for gaming, or should I be fine?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Alright, thanks. It's got an 8ms response time, right? Is that really _that_ bad for gaming, or should I be fine?


That's extremely subjective.

Let's phrase it like this, if you're used to a 5ms response time then I doubt you'll notice.

I'm sure you'll be too busy staring at it with your tongue hanging out to care about the slightly worse response time.

In my opinion, I care about response time, but I accept that ghosting is part of the tech, and I used an 8ms panel for many years and It didn't bother me too much.


----------



## jakomocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> That's extremely subjective.
> 
> Let's phrase it like this, if you're used to a 5ms response time then I doubt you'll notice.
> 
> I'm sure you'll be too busy staring at it with your tongue hanging out to care about the slightly worse response time.
> 
> In my opinion, I care about response time, but I accept that ghosting is part of the tech, and I used an 8ms panel for many years and It didn't bother me too much.


Well, I've only been on Macs my whole life so anything's probably better than that









Is the 1000:1 contrast ratio alright?
*EDIT:*
For example, this Qnix monitor seems to have a much higher contrast ratio at the same price. Should I get it instead?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Well, I've only been on Macs my whole life so anything's probably better than that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the 1000:1 contrast ratio alright?


It's best to ask others that.

That's another relative term, "contrast ratio", it's different for every panel type and model, and even then it usually relies on certain features being enabled or disabled. You basically have to see it for yourself.

I use this logic, if it pleases the insanely picky people here that choose IPS/PLS for it's color accuracy and contrast, then it should please you.

It's important to note that the picky people in this thread claim the out-of-the-box color settings are great and don't really need to be calibrated.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Yes, there are extensive reviews that show the input lag amount which equates to about 2 frames due to the scaler needed for the HDMI input and most people here find it unacceptable.
> 
> Go roll your eyes somewhere else.


Frame =/= second. Two frames of input lag is about 30 milliseconds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Well, I've only been on Macs my whole life so anything's probably better than that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the 1000:1 contrast ratio alright?
> *EDIT:*
> For example, this Qnix monitor seems to have a much higher contrast ratio at the same price. Should I get it instead?


The X-star and that Qnix use the same panel, so any difference in the numbers is just marketing. But the SE model (the one you linked) is generally not recommended because they can have more dead pixels.


----------



## jakomocha

Okay then, I'll get the monitor I linked earlier. Thanks guys! I hope I don't have any backlight bleed or dead pixels (the pixel perfect guarantee is useless for all of the monitors, right?).


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Frame =/= second. Two frames of input lag is about 30 milliseconds.


All reviews show the multi-input Qnix as having a total of 28-31ms of input lag.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> the SE model (the one you linked) is generally not recommended because they can have more dead pixels.


I was not aware of that.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Okay then, I'll get the monitor I linked earlier. Thanks guys! I hope I don't have any backlight bleed or dead pixels (the pixel perfect guarantee is useless for all of the monitors, right?).


Good luck, I hope they're still in stock.

I can't buy mine until May 23rd.


----------



## monkeytommo

I bought a QNIX without the pixel perfect guarantee and only have one dead pixel. However, it's on the bottom right of the screen, so I can't see it unless I'm looking directly at it, so it's fine by me.

Seller - green-sum - Shipped via DHL express
Link - http://www.ebay.com/itm/121089977041?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Also, can someone add that I paid NT$450 for import duties to Taiwan (as if that's going to help many people! haha)? That's roughly £9 / $15


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> All reviews show the multi-input Qnix as having a total of 28-31ms of input lag.


Yes, that's what I said. I was correcting what you said earlier, which was that it had two _seconds_ of input lag.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> The True 10 multi-input is a downgrade *due to 2 seconds of input lag* and frameskipping past 60hz.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Yes, that's what I said. I was correcting what you said earlier, which was that it had two _seconds_ of input lag.


The pic is directed at me.. I meant to say 2 frames...


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> The pic is directed at me.. I meant to say 2 frames...


I wasn't sure if you meant to write frames or milliseconds initially. I think we all knew you didn't mean seconds though, unless you have the monitor connected via satellite.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I wasn't sure if you meant to write frames or milliseconds initially. I think we all knew you didn't mean seconds though, unless you have the monitor connected via satellite.


You have no idea how hard I facepalmed when you made me realize I was typing "two seconds" instead of "two frames", which explains that one guy's post. Of course I didn't mean two seconds, but I wonder how many more times I would of said seconds before I corrected myself.

It's going to be one of those days.


----------



## tietherope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Okay then, I'll get the monitor I linked earlier. Thanks guys! I hope I don't have any backlight bleed or dead pixels (the pixel perfect guarantee is useless for all of the monitors, right?).


As mentioned earlier that seller says they are out of them indefinitely. I don't know why they don't take the listings down, they are wasting people's time.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeytommo*
> 
> Hey all.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone could help me. I've used CRU to set my monitor to 120Hz and it's stable, even confirmed this when taking a 1/5th of a second photo with my DSLR of that test page... Continuous image of cubes with the two end ones being slightly less solid than the others.
> 
> So, that's all cool and stuff, what the problem is (and maybe this is because I have good eyesight), basically I can see vertical lines across the screen. I was wondering if this is a common issue? I am running an i7 3770k and a GTX680 (will be using SLi in the next few days, waiting on a new PSU). That should be ok to run 120Hz, right? Also, 60Hz is the only refresh rate that I can run that doesn't have these line... As I increase the Hz incrementally they get more noticeable. Not sure what I'm doing with the manual settings, so I kinda just left them alone. Anyone got any tips?
> 
> Games look great because they are in motion, desktop looks like poop.
> 
> (Side note - I have the QNIX, Tempered Glass, and have Installed the Nvidia Patch (Not the SLi one yet, just the regular one))


Can you better describe these vertical lines that you are seeing?....IE...Do they look like green scan lines etc?....or better still upload a picture of them!.....Also please post a screenshot of your timings in NVCP which i hope you are using having a Nvidia card.. you need to install the Qnix monitor driver which i have linked below if you are indeed overclocking via NVCP

qnix.zip 0k .zip file

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> Well, I have not been successful in overclocking and had some weird stuttering issues during cinematics in Tomb Raider, but otherwise no issues.


Also the same goes for you or anyone that needs help overclocking i need to see your timings and your method and a screen shot of your timings setup would be best!.... As much info as possible the model and make of card you are using..."IE" ....AMD R2 290 or Nvidia GTX660 weather you are running in crossfire or SLI or have a single card..... thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeytommo*
> 
> I bought a QNIX without the pixel perfect guarantee and only have one dead pixel. However, it's on the bottom right of the screen, so I can't see it unless I'm looking directly at it, so it's fine by me.
> 
> Seller - green-sum - Shipped via DHL express
> Link - http://www.ebay.com/itm/121089977041?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> Also, can someone add that I paid NT$450 for import duties to Taiwan (as if that's going to help many people! haha)? That's roughly £9 / $15


Welcome to the club and thanks for the info


----------



## CoolRonZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Alright, thanks. It's got an 8ms response time, right? Is that really _that_ bad for gaming, or should I be fine?


don't always go by the advertised response times bro, its the same panel, its the same response times afaik.... my DPmulti does NOT have the advertised 4ms times and plus its got lag, none of which my tired old eyes can tell the difference anyways... every time they put out a little more expensive model they say its a little faster.... not to mention they all have the exact same bezel and stand, weird...


----------



## Commiekaze

So it seems the refresh rate is the least of my worries. I did not see this until a bit later in the night when it got dark. It seems my monitor has quite a few patches of backlight bleed but one in particular is very bad. In fact, it looks like a filter of textured lines was applied to my monitor and it covers a sizable chunk of the top right area.



See pictures attached. I can deal with the 1 dead pixel in the middle and the bottom bleed but that top right is pretty crazy. Is this normal? Are those grainy lines common? Or is this thing a dud? Because they are very visible. No response from the seller yet.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Considering buying from amazon vs ebay.

What do you guys normally pay in "duty" fees on imported monitors to the US?


----------



## CoolRonZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> So it seems the refresh rate is the least of my worries. I did not see this until a bit later in the night when it got dark. It seems my monitor has quite a few patches of backlight bleed but one in particular is very bad. In fact, it looks like a filter of textured lines was applied to my monitor and it covers a sizable chunk of the top right area.
> 
> 
> 
> See pictures attached. I can deal with the 1 dead pixel in the middle and the bottom bleed but that top right is pretty crazy. Is this normal? Are those grainy lines common? Or is this thing a dud? Because they are very visible. No response from the seller yet.


WOW!!!! i have 2 stuck pixels that only show up if grey to black, one green and one red, the red one is really hard to find and 1 dead pixel which i never notice... but that edge bleed..... as far as i can tell i have none, but yours is an extreme bad case bro..... sad to say.... i dont even think that even passed the A- screening, atleast not to me.... i am truly sorry bro, thats just tooo much....


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolRonZ*
> 
> WOW!!!! i have 2 stuck pixels that only show up if grey to black, one green and one red, the red one is really hard to find and 1 dead pixel which i never notice... but that edge bleed..... as far as i can tell i have none, but yours is an extreme bad case bro..... sad to say.... i dont even think that even passed the A- screening, atleast not to me.... i am truly sorry bro, thats just tooo much....


Yup. I have not been this disappointed with a purchase in a very long time. Unbelievable. Like... it has lines. What would cause the lines like that? Can it even be fixed with the tape mods? Its not even bleed, its like a burn. The seller better RMA this.


----------



## CoolRonZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> Yup. I have not been this disappointed with a purchase in a very long time. Unbelievable. Like... it has lines. What would cause the lines like that? Can it even be fixed with the tape mods? Its not even bleed, its like a burn. The seller better RMA this.


i think those are scan lines.. sort of.... i read something somewhere how only DP is truly capable of progressive, but then again i have been misinformed too... lol but in reality i think they meant DVI-S(single), not DVI-D(dual), if you GPU is single only it may be causing this.... yours is an extreme case bro.. my eyes are not sensitve to flicker or ghosting, bad eyes is a blessing for me, but your is extremely bad, even for my eyes.... try if you can to RMA it.... shipping costs may kill you tho....







atleast check it out bro, i dont think that should have left the factory.... i do know for fact a VA panel is less likely to edge bleed than an IPS or PLS, one thing forsure my qnix dpmulti has a better display than my tegra note 7 with an IPS display, very noticeable... i am amazed by the blacks and whites...


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolRonZ*
> 
> i think those are scan lines.. sort of.... i read something somewhere how only DP is truly capable of progressive, but then again i have been misinformed too... lol but in reality i think they meant DVI-S(single), not DVI-D(dual), if you GPU is single only it may be causing this.... yours is an extreme case bro.. my eyes are not sensitve to flicker or ghosting, bad eyes is a blessing for me, but your is extremely bad, even for my eyes.... try if you can to RMA it.... shipping costs may kill you tho....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> atleast check it out bro, i dont think that should have left the factory.... i do know for fact a VA panel is less likely to edge bleed than an IPS or PLS, one thing forsure my qnix dpmulti has a better display than my tegra note 7 with an IPS display, very noticeable... i am amazed by the blacks and whites...


The seller is green-sum. I haven't been able to google or find anyone with these lines. It also had a small scratch/crack on the bottom. I am giving the seller a day to respond (he still has not since yesterday) and if he refuses to do an RMA I will definitely file a claim. The shipping here is free and as long as an item is marked as warranty replacement on the paperwork i wont get charged for duty. The seller should cover the shipping there and back as this does not look like a "minor back light bleed" as his page describes it. I'll see if anyone else had one with these lines or this much bleed but so far I haven't found anyone.

Edit: Im running the proper Dual-link DVI and have x2 GTX 780 TIs running this monitor so it is not a hardware thing. I dumped my 144hz ASUS for this monitor. :/


----------



## Kenjiwing

Has anyone tried this monitor in PLP?

http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-e178wfp/pd

Its a 17" with 1440 x 900 technically the 1440 in P should line up with the landscape.


----------



## CoolRonZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> The seller is green-sum. I haven't been able to google or find anyone with these lines. It also had a small scratch/crack on the bottom. I am giving the seller a day to respond (he still has not since yesterday) and if he refuses to do an RMA I will definitely file a claim. The shipping here is free and as long as an item is marked as warranty replacement on the paperwork i wont get charged for duty. The seller should cover the shipping there and back as this does not look like a "minor back light bleed" as his page describes it. I'll see if anyone else had one with these lines or this much bleed but so far I haven't found anyone.
> 
> Edit: Im running the proper Dual-link DVI and have x2 GTX 780 TIs running this monitor so it is not a hardware thing. I dumped my 144hz ASUS for this monitor. :/


i hear you.. loud and clear.... i have heard as bad of stories sadly, kind of why i was hesitant also, there is a small percentage whos monitors really suck... mines not perfect, but its still amazes me in the clarity and i do have to go searching for my dead/stuck pixels, its not in my face obvious.... but i wouldnt be happy being in your situation.... i really do hope you can get a decent replacement so you can enjoy your 2.5K experience as much as i am loving mine







i also have a smudge/scratch across the screen, like all my monitors i have owned for longer than 3months.... i think its the reason its an A- panel honestly, but only can see it if the monitor is turned off... lol


----------



## jakomocha

Is there any version of the X-star where the no dead pixel guarantee is actually legit and if you have any dead pixels then you'll be allowed to return it?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> So it seems the refresh rate is the least of my worries. I did not see this until a bit later in the night when it got dark. It seems my monitor has quite a few patches of backlight bleed but one in particular is very bad. In fact, it looks like a filter of textured lines was applied to my monitor and it covers a sizable chunk of the top right area.
> 
> 
> 
> See pictures attached. I can deal with the 1 dead pixel in the middle and the bottom bleed but that top right is pretty crazy. Is this normal? Are those grainy lines common? Or is this thing a dud? Because they are very visible. No response from the seller yet.


Ok firstly as i am sure you know these are A- grade panels one of the main reason for this fact is BLB!....Your BLB is bad it is as bad as mine was when i first got it and i paid extra for pixel perfect!..Which it indeed was!...Secondly i very much doubt that you will be able to RMA this panel because of the fact that all of the sellers have a disclaimer stating that BLB should be expected and therefore is not a reason to return (RMA)....Also the OP needs a complete update and tape fixing does not work and is a bad idea and can put more pressure on your panel sat in the frame and therefore can generate BLB....The reason for your BLB is the fact that your panel will be sat in a bent metal frame!...And this is one of the reasons (bent frame) that is a A- grade panel.

This however this can be fixed fairly easily with a bit of confidence and a good read of my guide which is basically a few posts in the link i have posted below i strongly suggest that you read them carefully before you strip your monitor down as it will greatly help you and you will feel much more confident striping your monitor down and we also don't want any mishaps and you will know what to expect!...Also i can assure you that once you have straightened your frame without the need for any tape your monitor will be 100% BLB free...(As mine now is in the pictures below)
Also i believe the bands going up your screen is just that banding!...It noticeable due to the fact that your monitor is not working as intended as in there is more or as much light infront of your panel as behind it and i believe once your BLB is fixed you will not see this any more!

My monitor before and after straightening of the fame.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Link to my Straightening Guide

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/12970


----------



## CoolRonZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok firstly as i am sure you know these are A- grade panels one of the main reason for this fact is BLB!....Your BLB is bad it is as bad as mine was when i first got it and i paid extra for pixel perfect!..Which it indeed was!...Secondly i very much doubt that you will be able to RMA this panel because of the fact that all of the sellers have a disclaimer stating that BLB should be expected and therefore is not a reason to return ( RMA )....Also the OP needs a complete update and tape fixing does not work and is a bad idea and can put more pressure on your panel sat in the frame and therefore can generate BLB....The reason for your BLB is the fact that your panel will be sat in a bent metal frame!...And this is one of the reasons ( bent frame ) that is a A- grade panel.
> 
> This however this can be fixed fairly easily with a bit of confidence and a good read of my guide which is basically a few posts in the link i have posted below i strongly suggest that you read them carefully before you strip your monitor down as it will greatly help you and you will feel much more confident striping your monitor down and we also don't want any mishaps and you will know what to expect!...Also i can assure you that once you have straightened your frame without the need for any tape your monitor will be 100% BLB free...( As mine now is in the pictures below )
> Also i believe the bands going up your screen is just that banding!...It noticeable due to the fact that your monitor is not working as intended as in there is more or as much light infront of your panel as behind it and i believe once your BLB is fixed you will not see this any more!
> 
> My monitor before and after straightening of the fame.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to my Straightening Guide
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/12970


very interesting Lawson







thanks, makes alot of sense to me... lol


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Has anyone tried this monitor in PLP?
> 
> http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-e178wfp/pd
> 
> Its a 17" with 1440 x 900 technically the 1440 in P should line up with the landscape.


I tried the PLP 17-27-17 and i dint work for me, two things to point out.
17in is slightly bigger than it should be to match, ideally you need a 15.2inch laptop screen at 1440x900 (there is a thread over at Hard Forum)
the TN panel and IPS really clash and make a huge difference in aesthetics as well as viewing angles. I simply couldn't see the side monitors without physically aligning myself with them straight on.

my







, either do the 15.2 DIY laptop screens, or get 2more Qnix and go PPP or LLL

EDIT: Here's a pic, excuse the manga and the mess everywhere










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok firstly as i am sure you know these are A- grade panels one of the main reason for this fact is BLB!....Your BLB is bad it is as bad as mine was when i first got it and i paid extra for pixel perfect!..Which it indeed was!...Secondly i very much doubt that you will be able to RMA this panel because of the fact that all of the sellers have a disclaimer stating that BLB should be expected and therefore is not a reason to return (RMA)....Also the OP needs a complete update and tape fixing does not work and is a bad idea and can put more pressure on your panel sat in the frame and therefore can generate BLB....The reason for your BLB is the fact that your panel will be sat in a bent metal frame!...And this is one of the reasons (bent frame) that is a A- grade panel.
> 
> This however this can be fixed fairly easily with a bit of confidence and a good read of my guide which is basically a few posts in the link i have posted below i strongly suggest that you read them carefully before you strip your monitor down as it will greatly help you and you will feel much more confident striping your monitor down and we also don't want any mishaps and you will know what to expect!...Also i can assure you that once you have straightened your frame without the need for any tape your monitor will be 100% BLB free...(As mine now is in the pictures below)
> Also i believe the bands going up your screen is just that banding!...It noticeable due to the fact that your monitor is not working as intended as in there is more or as much light infront of your panel as behind it and i believe once your BLB is fixed you will not see this any more!
> 
> My monitor before and after straightening of the fame.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to my Straightening Guide
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/12970


Awesome, thanks a lot man. Thats a crazy result in those pictures. I actually had another link bookmarked for the "twisting/bending" method but couldn't find it in the first post of this thread. I have never taken apart a monitor but in this case I think I am obligated to do so!







I would much rather do this than RMA anyway. I will give it a go tonight after work and will post results. I appreciate the help.


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Link to my Straightening Guide
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/12970


One question. I know the videos of "David" dismantling the monitor number a lot more than what you listen in your guide. I dont need ALL of Davids videos, correct? Only the few that you linked?


----------



## jakomocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Is there any version of the X-star where the no dead pixel guarantee is actually legit and if you have any dead pixels then you'll be allowed to return it?


Oh, also, are you sure it has sold out? I bought it but haven't paid yet, and the seller has not contacted me about not having any in stock.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> One question. I know the videos of "David" dismantling the monitor number a lot more than what you listen in your guide. I dont need ALL of Davids videos, correct? Only the few that you linked?


I can not remember how far he went...However a fast run down to strip your monitor down and fix your BLB goes like this,

1: Remove the 4 screws on the back of the case running alone the bottom holing the bezel on

2: Pull the plastic bezel off the monitor with the case laying flat down face up...i used my finger hands

3: pull both sides of the case away from the panel....This will allow the panel to pop up free from the case with the metal frame rails still attached

4: Slowly lift the panel up away from the case looking underneath the panel to locate and un-plug the wire harness from the PCB board and power switch and BRI switch to the panel

5: Lift out panel and take it to a flat surface....I used my dining room table..Remove the 2 rails one on each side of the metal frame and there are 2 screws in them holding them on the metal frame...As in the picture i posted in that thread

6: Pop the frame off the panel---Make sure no kids are around as you don't want anyone touching the panel once the frame is off or disturbing the diffuser layers that are now free and are not being held in place by the frame...do not try to pick up the panel or the diffuser layers could simply fall onto the floor...keep in mind that they are there and that they do not need to be touched or moved and you will be just fine...try not to touch them with your fingers as you could end up with a mark on your screen once back together..Also don't be tempted to pull them apart to look at the one underneath as dust/hair or anything could fall in-between them...Just gently remove the frame and go to the other side of the table lay the frame down on the the straight table and you will see the bend / bow in the frame

7: Straighten the frame with your hands and keep putting it back on the table using the table as a straight reference and until the frame lays nice and flat and straight on your table top

8: Refit and restart BLB gone....Whole job will take you 25-35mins


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I can not remember how far he went...However a fast run down to strip your monitor down and fix your BLB goes like this...


Awesome thanks again. Seems straightforward. I will do it as soon as im home after work. Lets see what happens.

Edit: It should be interesting to see just how many bends I have in the frame as I got light coming from the top and bottom.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Here is 1440P nice wallpaper, especially for Tolkien fans.

http://1drv.ms/1gAdw3l

There are lots of great high res shots on /r/earthporn which I just convert to 2560x1440.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Is there any version of the X-star where the no dead pixel guarantee is actually legit and if you have any dead pixels then you'll be allowed to return it?


Not sure about the X-star, but you can buy "ultimate pixel perfect" versions of the Qnix which are guaranteed to have no bad pixels.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Speculation time.

If the single-input Qnix's are no longer being supplied to the sellers, I wonder if they're going to start shipping out their worst ones now, assuming they even check them in the first place.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Speculation time.
> 
> If the single-input Qnix's are no longer being supplied to the sellers, I wonder if they're going to start shipping out their worst ones now, assuming they even check them in the first place.


Eek now I'm getting scared are we sure this is for real or dream seller being cheeky? Might have to get one if it is hmm...


----------



## tietherope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Eek now I'm getting scared are we sure this is for real or dream seller being cheeky? Might have to get one if it is hmm...


I've emailed many sellers asking if they have stock. Still waiting to hear back.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> I've emailed many sellers asking if they have stock. Still waiting to hear back.


Ok great would be good top hear any results :s thanks


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Is there any version of the X-star where the no dead pixel guarantee is actually legit and if you have any dead pixels then you'll be allowed to return it?


Normally the seller will call the panels that do not have one dead pixel..."Ultimate pixel perfect"...and...."pixel perfect"...normally means up to one or two dead pixels!....However they have to be very careful with there descriptions if they advertise pixel perfect and do not state that there could be up to one dead pixel then you should receive a pixel perfect monitor and be covered by Ebays own trade description act that all sellers have to abide by...IE,

If that seller clams *pixel perfect* which to the layman would mean *no dead pixels* and does not state anywhere in the advertisement that this really means up to one or two dead pixels...Then you have the right (If you found a dead pixel) to force the seller with Ebays backing to ship back the monitor to Korea because it did not fit the sellers description being pixel perfect and it was mis-sold to you!...You have the right to a full refund or just have a refund and keep the monitor if the seller cant be bothered to ship back....Also Believe me the last thing that any seller wants to do is pay for reshipping the monitor back to Korea....

This is a major money loss to them!....Below is a *pixel perfect X-Star* from a known good seller and no where does it state *unless i missed it?* that it may have up to one dead pixel....It clams *pixel perfect* which means to an ebay buyer it should be perfect with no dead pixels!

BTW: Its an overclockable monitor









http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa


----------



## enkur

I used the following to down clock on the SLI setup
http://www.overclock.net/t/964370/howto-dual-monitor-downclocking-fix-for-nvidia-cards

This works for overclocked and SLI setups
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Quick question for anyone running a sli setup,is there a fix to have my GPU's usage/memory automatically going back to regular clock speed when not gaming....? I see that with an overclock of 96/110Hz that the usage is higher,and the only way to bring it back down when not gaming is to use windows resolution to set it back to 60Hz....


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> I used the following to down clock on the SLI setup
> http://www.overclock.net/t/964370/howto-dual-monitor-downclocking-fix-for-nvidia-cards
> 
> This works for overclocked and SLI setups


I do not believe that guide would be relevant if you had messed with your monitors vertical lines / pixel clock in an attempt to tighten your timings to overclock your monitor!...Generally most Nvidia cards will downclock on the desktop at 120hz if there timings are not to tight!.....However with 5 lines or less of vertical blanking (1445 total) this doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen. Even NVIDIA cards won't clock down if the vertical blanking/total is that low.

However many Nvidia cards can set higher vertical blanking values than any AMD and be able to downclock on the desktop even at 120hz which *no* AMD card can do!...So i believe if you have tightened your timings to hit 120hz than that guide would not apply!....If you did not need to tighten your timings to hit 120hz with your Nvidia card it should apply

Also for AMD user you can use presets in CCC to flick at the touch of a keystroke and set your refresh to 60hz or 96hz or even 110hz using Standard LCD timings and your cards ram will downclock on the desktop...However i have found that even though i have made preset i just stay at 110hz 24/7 which allows my ram to downclock on the desktop!...Also i can not tell the difference between 110hz and 120hz anyhow which my monitor is more than capable of doing!....

Also any game that supports 120hz like BF4...world of tanks....or Tomb Radier 4 and the list goes on will automaitcly switch over to 120hz when i start to play them because i have set my refresh rate along with my resolution in the games graphic settings as in the picture below....This allows the game to switch my monitor from 110hz to 120hz without me doing anything and then back to 110hz when finish playing and i go back to the desktop which allows my ram to downclock again....perfect!


----------



## enkur

Thanks lawson for the clarification. And yes that is correct I think I have my monitor overclocked to 96Hz. The original poster only mentioned 96/110 so it would be relevant for him.


----------



## jakomocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Not sure about the X-star, but you can buy "ultimate pixel perfect" versions of the Qnix which are guaranteed to have no bad pixels.


Oh, like this one ? I may just go with that instead. Sure, it's $70 more expensive but I'm very easily irritated. How is that model? It's not one of the monitors with 2-frame delay, right? How are Monex and Crossover monitors? They have Ultimate Perfect Pixel models for cheaper, but I get the feeling that they aren't as good as Qnix/X-star due to them not being mentioned in the thread title and being less popular.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Oh, like this one ? I may just go with that instead. Sure, it's $70 more expensive but I'm very easily irritated. How is that model? It's not one of the monitors with 2-frame delay, right? How are Monex and Crossover monitors? They have Ultimate Perfect Pixel models for cheaper, but I get the feeling that they aren't as good as Qnix/X-star due to them not being mentioned in the thread title and being less popular.


Yep, like that one. I have one I bought from storewithstory and they've been great with communication and shipping. Storewithstory was taking $330 best offers for a while, not sure about now that they've raised the price so much (used to be $360 or so).

http://m.ebay.com/itm/321376073626

Edit: wow, I was reading that one as $369, not $396. They really jacked the price up.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Oh, like this one ? I may just go with that instead. Sure, it's $70 more expensive but I'm very easily irritated. How is that model? It's not one of the monitors with 2-frame delay, right? How are Monex and Crossover monitors? They have Ultimate Perfect Pixel models for cheaper, but I get the feeling that they aren't as good as Qnix/X-star due to them not being mentioned in the thread title and being less popular.


The monitor you picked is the one that you want its the Qnix single input QX2710 which overclocks and it does *not* have the 2-frame delay and is the one everyone wants and yes the seller clams Ultimate pixel perfect!....
The Monex is has better build quality than the Qnix but does not overclock!...If you are not bothered about that then they are nice monitors and did have some nice cheap glossy ones for sale at one point and i believe they use the same samsung PLS panel as the Qnix.....The Crossover is also a nice monitor but also does not overclock!


----------



## hybridxer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> As mentioned earlier that seller says they are out of them indefinitely. I don't know why they don't take the listings down, they are wasting people's time.


Technically you don't want them to. The X-Stars are cheaper than the QNIX, and in my case, I got the QNIX for the price of the X-Star (299).


----------



## tietherope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridxer0*
> 
> Technically you don't want them to. The X-Stars are cheaper than the QNIX, and in my case, I got the QNIX for the price of the X-Star (299).


Problem is all the Qnix is gone too.


----------



## dpl2007

Ok how about this one it says perfect pixel and is fairly cheap: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/171313642706?nav=SEARCH I assume it's the best one that overclocks? I might go for it if I don't find cheaper. I also wonder if there's more money added in checkout but I'll see...


----------



## MenacingTuba

Only the single input Qnix/X-Star, Yamakasi 2B Extreme and Overlord Tempest X270OC overclock.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The monitor you picked is the one that you want its the Qnix single input QX2710 which overclocks and it does *not* have the 2-frame delay and is the one everyone wants and yes the seller clams Ultimate pixel perfect!....
> The Monex is has better build quality than the Qnix but does not overclock!...If you are not bothered about that then they are nice monitors and did have some nice cheap glossy ones for sale at one point and i believe they use the same samsung PLS panel as the Qnix.....The Crossover is also a nice monitor but also does not overclock!


Sorry to bug you but after he said they might be running out I got my finger hovering over the buy button and you seem to be the top guy in this thread







just want to check I haven't missed anything : http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/171313642706?nav=SEARCH checks out as the overclockable one? Thanks


----------



## jakomocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The monitor you picked is the one that you want its the Qnix single input QX2710 which overclocks and it does *not* have the 2-frame delay and is the one everyone wants and yes the seller clams Ultimate pixel perfect!....
> The Monex is has better build quality than the Qnix but does not overclock!...If you are not bothered about that then they are nice monitors and did have some nice cheap glossy ones for sale at one point and i believe they use the same samsung PLS panel as the Qnix.....The Crossover is also a nice monitor but also does not overclock!


Okay then, I'll definitely get this one. Hopefully the guy who I bought my old monitor from won't mind canceling the order (I hadn't paid yet) especially considering that they are supposedly out of stock.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Sorry to bug you but after he said they might be running out I got my finger hovering over the buy button and you seem to be the top guy in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just want to check I haven't missed anything : http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/171313642706?nav=SEARCH checks out as the overclockable one? Thanks


As MenacingTuba stated above all the single inputs Qnix are overclockable!...Also i do not know why but for what ever reason i can not see the writing or pictures in any of the Qnix and X-stars advertisements right now!

It appears my end as if they are withdrawing all advertisements of these monitors as i can ebay any item and see the pictures and write up on any product other than an X-star or a Qnix right now....if its single input you should be fine!


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Ah stock is finally starting to dwindle, eh? Well it's been over a year. How long did the overclockable Catleaps last? A month?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> As MenacingTuba stated above all the single inputs Qnix are overclockable!...Also i do not know why but for what ever reason i can not see the writing or pictures in any of the Qnix and X-stars advertisements right now!
> 
> It appears my end as if they are withdrawing all advertisements of these monitors as i can ebay any item and see the pictures and write up on any product other than an X-star or a Qnix right now....if its single input you should be fine!


A maybe because it was a mobile phone link? Here's the desktop: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/171313642706?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item27e316bcd2 better?
Ah I get what you mean I think yes I was finding it hard to load some of the description parts too...can't see single input anywhere but does look like one. I am getting the descriptions on most of them quiet well though.


----------



## lawson67

Ok my pictures are loading now on all X-Star and Qnix ebay advertisements now!...Strange indeed however i do believe people need to get in now and fast as i believe that these monitors will stop as soon as stock runs out!....Qnix seem to have invested in the True 10 monitor which they would like to clam as being there new 120hz capable monitor!....However in terms of overclockablity its the all new fail frame skipping Qnix!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> A maybe because it was a mobile phone link? Here's the desktop: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/171313642706?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item27e316bcd2 better?
> Ah I get what you mean I think yes I was finding it hard to load some of the description parts too...can't see single input anywhere but does look like one. I am getting the descriptions on most of them quiet well though.


Yes its the correct monitor grab it while you can and if you can!

BTW: That seller interpretation of perfect pixel is between 1-4 dead pixels...Just thought i would give you a heads up on that


----------



## jakomocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes its the correct monitor grab it while you can and if you can!
> 
> BTW: That seller interpretation of perfect pixel is between 1-4 dead pixels...Just thought i would give you a heads up on that


But this one has zero, right? I'm gonna buy it, it seems like the best offer and I'm willing to pay an extra $70 so that I don't risk having dead pixels and major backlight bleed (although there still may be minor cases of it). Also, what is the OSD button? They mention that they check it before shipping.

And just to be clear, I should buy this model, right?
*EDIT:*
Oops, sorry, meant to quote this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The monitor you picked is the one that you want its the Qnix single input QX2710 which overclocks and it does *not* have the 2-frame delay and is the one everyone wants and yes the seller clams Ultimate pixel perfect!....
> The Monex is has better build quality than the Qnix but does not overclock!...If you are not bothered about that then they are nice monitors and did have some nice cheap glossy ones for sale at one point and i believe they use the same samsung PLS panel as the Qnix.....The Crossover is also a nice monitor but also does not overclock!


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes its the correct monitor grab it while you can and if you can!
> 
> BTW: That seller interpretation of perfect pixel is between 1-4 dead pixels...Just thought i would give you a heads up on that


Yes that bit was confusing me as it also has (without pixel perfect option) as well so I assume I get 0 dead pixels anyway. Also some guy just gave feedback today saying they got 0 dead pixels but who knows it's probably translation problems. Anyway I bought it I'll report back later. Seems like that it's the price too so far and no extras were added in checkout. Not sure if they will be the best customer service etc maybe I have to pay for returns but should be ok







...Thanks.


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I can not remember how far he went...However a fast run down to strip your monitor down and fix your BLB goes like this,
> 
> 1: Remove the 4 screws on the back of the case running alone the bottom holing the bezel on
> 
> 2: Pull the plastic bezel off the monitor with the case laying flat down face up...i used my finger hands
> 
> 3: pull both sides of the case away from the panel....This will allow the panel to pop up free from the case with the metal frame rails still attached
> 
> 4: Slowly lift the panel up away from the case looking underneath the panel to locate and un-plug the wire harness from the PCB board and power switch and BRI switch to the panel
> 
> 5: Lift out panel and take it to a flat surface....I used my dining room table..Remove the 2 rails one on each side of the metal frame and there are 2 screws in them holding them on the metal frame...As in the picture i posted in that thread
> 
> 6: Pop the frame off the panel---Make sure no kids are around as you don't want anyone touching the panel once the frame is off or disturbing the diffuser layers that are now free and are not being held in place by the frame...do not try to pick up the panel or the diffuser layers could simply fall onto the floor...keep in mind that they are there and that they do not need to be touched or moved and you will be just fine...try not to touch them with your fingers as you could end up with a mark on your screen once back together..Also don't be tempted to pull them apart to look at the one underneath as dust/hair or anything could fall in-between them...Just gently remove the frame and go to the other side of the table lay the frame down on the the straight table and you will see the bend / bow in the frame
> 
> 7: Straighten the frame with your hands and keep putting it back on the table using the table as a straight reference and until the frame lays nice and flat and straight on your table top
> 
> 8: Refit and restart BLB gone....Whole job will take you 25-35mins


So after taking it all apart, it looks like my metal frame is literally warped. It arks. solid few mm clearance. Not sure how I will be able to bend this into a straight plate while the glass is on the top.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> But this one has zero, right? I'm gonna buy it, it seems like the best offer and I'm willing to pay an extra $70 so that I don't risk having dead pixels and major backlight bleed (although there still may be minor cases of it). Also, what is the OSD button? They mention that they check it before shipping.
> 
> And just to be clear, I should buy this model, right?


Yes he clams 0 dead stuck pixels!...I advise you to take a screen shot of his advertisement so there can be not debate on what he offered you should things go wrong as in it arrives with a dead / stuck pixel


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> So after taking it all apart, it looks like my metal frame is literally warped. It arks. solid few mm clearance. Not sure how I will be able to bend this into a straight plate while the glass is on the top.


Did you buy tempered glass model if so it needs to be removed if it can?....Mine was matte....A sharp Stanley knife around the edge between the glass and frame?....it can only surely be stuck on the frame?....Are you saying you have removed the frame and glass is stuck to the removed upper frame?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> But this one has zero, right? I'm gonna buy it, it seems like the best offer and I'm willing to pay an extra $70 so that I don't risk having dead pixels and major backlight bleed (although there still may be minor cases of it). Also, what is the OSD button? They mention that they check it before shipping.
> 
> And just to be clear, I should buy this model, right?


Hmmm good luck but all I see is they could possibly be better at customer services. Both feedbacks have people saying they got 0 dead pixels but your one seems more expensive. I would think they check all the osds to some degree but I'm new to this so just saying. Always some gamble with these types of things...


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Did you buy tempered glass model if so it needs to be removed if it can?....Mine was matte....A sharp Stanley knife around the edge between the glass and frame?....it can only surely be stuck on the frame?....Are you saying you have removed the frame and glass is stuck to the removed upper frame?


Yup tempered glass. Its attached to the metal frame. I dont have anything to re-attach it with or even remove it, really. :/


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

In my searching through Ebay for the original Qnix I've noticed all the sellers now say the buyer pays return shipping (for all models).

I'm also wondering if someone does get an awful panel, will they even be able to replace it with one that isn't awful due to the supposed almost depleted supplies.


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> In my searching through Ebay for the original Qnix I've noticed all the sellers now say the buyer pays return shipping (for all models).
> 
> I'm also wondering if someone does get an awful panel, will they even be able to replace it with one that isn't awful due to the supposed almost depleted supplies.


Dont hold your breath. They havent even replied to my message yet after 24 hours when they usually reply almost instantly.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> Yup tempered glass. Its attached to the metal frame. I dont have anything to re-attach it with or even remove it, really. :/


Hmmm some very thin 1mm double tape in a few areas on the glass to reattach it maybe?...Also is it much smaller than the frame does it need to be sticking to the frame?.....I don't believe it would need sticking to the frame?....The even pressure of a straight refitted frame should be enough to keep it in place...

Also if its real glass a very thin sharp knife should be enough to free it from the frame!....In the UK we would use a knife / blade called a Stanley knife / blade which would do the job if its real glass without scratching it


----------



## jakomocha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes he clams 0 dead stuck pixels!...I advise you to take a screen shot of his advertisement so there can be not debate on what he offered you should things go wrong as in it arrives with a dead / stuck pixel


Yeah, I took a screenshot and bought it. I hope they aren't sold out or anything, it did after all mention a specific quantity left.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Hmmm good luck but all I see is they could possibly be better at customer services. Both feedbacks have people saying they got 0 dead pixels but your one seems more expensive. I would think they check all the osds to some degree but I'm new to this so just saying. Always some gamble with these types of things...


Yeah, I know the chances of getting a dead pixel are relatively rare but I'm pretty OCD about that stuff so in the rare chance I got 4 or less dead pixels, they would probably bother me to a ridiculous amount (maybe not though, I've never had any actual experience with dead pixels before). Also, I thought Qnix monitors did not include an OSD... so how come my model guarantees that it is working?


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hmmm some very thin 1mm double tape in a few areas on the glass to reattach it maybe?...Also is it much smaller than the frame does it need to be sticking to the frame?.....I don't believe it would need sticking to the frame?....The even pressure of a straight refitted frame should be enough to keep it in place...
> 
> Also if its real glass a very thin sharp knife should be enough to free it from the frame!....In the UK we would use a knife / blade called a Stanley knife / blade which would do the job if its real glass without scratching it


What if I just took off the glass and kept it off? Is the actual screen something that has to be protected by the tempered glass?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakomocha*
> 
> Yeah, I took a screenshot and bought it. I hope they aren't sold out or anything, it did after all mention a specific quantity left.
> Yeah, I know the chances of getting a dead pixel are relatively rare but I'm pretty OCD about that stuff so in the rare chance I got 4 or less dead pixels, they would probably bother me to a ridiculous amount (maybe not though, I've never had any actual experience with dead pixels before). Also, I thought Qnix monitors did not include an OSD... so how come my model guarantees that it is working?


They don't have an OSD it just his standard Ultimate perfect pixel all makes and models of monitors he sells sticker...Dont waste your time worrying about that


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> What if I just took off the glass and kept it off? Is the actual screen something that has to be protected by the tempered glass?


The glass does not need to be on there it only purpose is to give the impression of being a glossy screen however temperd glass make blacks look crap!....Also they are generally sat on a perfect matte screen....IE its my monitor *matte* with a piece of glass stuck over a matte screen and defeats all logic as it is far from true and real glossy screen and only makes the picture look worse in many cases....it will be fine to bin it or trash it however you call it!....But you don't need it

MenacingTuba will tell you how crap temped glass monitors are! and how it affects the picture quality etc


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The glass does not need to be on there it only purpose is to give the impression of being a glossy screen however temperd glass make blacks look crap!....Also they are generally sat on a perfect matte screen....IE its my monitor *matte* with a piece of glass stuck over a matte screen and defeats all logic as it is far from true and real glossy screen and only makes the picture look worse in many cases....it will be fine to bin it or trash it however you call it!....But you don't need it
> 
> MenacingTuba will tell you how crap temped glass monitors are! and how it affects the picture quality etc


So you are saying that I can just pop the glass off, bend the fram back in place (ive actually done pretty good even with the glass, almost no play left) and just attach the metal fram back without the glass? And then to clean the LCD/LED whatever screen, I just use the same cleaners I use for regular monitors?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> So you are saying that I can just pop the glass off, bend the fram back in place (ive actually done pretty good even with the glass, almost no play left) and just attach the metal fram back without the glass? And then to clean the LCD/LED whatever screen, I just use the same cleaners I use for regular monitors?


Yes too all the above if you have bent the frame straight without breaking the glass if that's what you mean you have done then feel free to leave it on!...However if you read what MenacingTuba says about temped glass over a matte screen and how it can affect the picture quality i would leave it off!....MenacingTuba is a top class reviewer of monitors and an expert in his field his advice i take note of!


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes too all the above if you have bent the frame straight without breaking the glass if that's what you mean you have done then feel free to leave it on!...However if you read what MenacingTuba says about temped glass over a matte screen and how it can affect the picture quality i would leave it off!....MenacingTuba is a top class reviewer of monitors and an expert in his field his advice i take note of!


So! Good news and bad news. Bad news is that bending the frame didnt fix much. It is still bleeding out, though honestly not as bad. The other bad news is that those lines still exist. Perhaps they are not related to bleed as they are literally lines through the monitor. I guess the good news is that everything looks much better without the tempered glass and I think I can make the bleed a bit better with a combination of the tape mod on the back of the panel and playing around more with the frame. I still feel like I got extremely unlucky and it looks like the seller has chosen to ignore my messages as he has yet to answer me. But hey, the monitor still has a pretty sweet image as the bleed is only noticeable on a full black background. I may take it apart again tomorrow and try the tape mod.


----------



## tietherope

Ta-korea.global and accessorieswhole have both responded saying they have the Qnix in stock, but the first one said not many. No reply from greensum and no word back from dreamseller about my refund.

Placing an order with accessorieswhole although it's more expensive than dream seller was.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> Ta-korea.global and accessorieswhole have both responded saying they have the Qnix in stock, but the first one said not many. No reply from greensum and no word back from dreamseller about my refund.
> 
> Placing an order with accessorieswhole although it's more expensive than dream seller was.


Price ?


----------



## tietherope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Price ?


Accessorieswhole is $329, ta-korea.global is $335 for pixel perfect, but actually has a 0-4 dead pixel policy.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> Accessorieswhole is $329, ta-korea.global is $335 for pixel perfect, but actually has a 0-4 dead pixel policy.


I'd gladly pay those prices, I was expecting to pay around $360.

I'd just be happy to find a non SE model in general now, as long as it's not $400+.


----------



## tietherope

Well I really don't know what to think now. Just received a message from Dreamseller that they can ship my originally purchased monitor out Friday if I wish. If it was only a delay of four days I wish they hadn't said "delayed indefinitely".

So now I keep the X-star originally purchased at $299, easier to remove stand, and ships Friday. Or pick up a Qnix for $329 that ships sooner.


----------



## Zelo

Hello I just got my two Qnix monitors from ipdledmonitors and I'm very happy with them not having found any dead pixels. They look great coming from TN panels my whole life. Can someone help me with overclocking?

I'm using a 290x and only one of the monitors can reach 110Hz while the other can only reach 96Hz anything higher and it develops green lines across the top, and yes I've tried "Reduce dvi frequency" in CCC. Also I have another problem where if I leave my computer idle for to long the monitors will go into idle mode "red flashing light" and it gets stuck like that even if I move my mouse or press keys on my keyboard.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> Well I really don't know what to think now. Just received a message from Dreamseller that they can ship my originally purchased monitor out Friday if I wish. If it was only a delay of four days I wish they hadn't said "delayed indefinitely".
> 
> So now I keep the X-star originally purchased at $299, easier to remove stand, and ships Friday. Or pick up a Qnix for $329 that ships sooner.


That's assuming that a Qnix you order today would actually ship sooner. It's already Wednesday in Korea, so the earliest someone else would ship would probably be Thursday, and could easily be longer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zelo*
> 
> Hello I just got my two Qnix monitors from ipdledmonitors and I'm very happy with them not having found any dead pixels. They look great coming from TN panels my whole life. Can someone help me with overclocking?
> 
> I'm using a 290x and only one of the monitors can reach 110Hz while the other can only reach 96Hz anything higher and it develops green lines across the top, and yes I've tried "Reduce dvi frequency" in CCC. Also I have another problem where if I leave my computer idle for to long the monitors will go into idle mode "red flashing light" and it gets stuck like that even if I move my mouse or press keys on my keyboard.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Let me guess, using the AMD 14.x drivers? That idle black screen flashing red light thing is a common problem with the 14.x drivers. 13.12 should work okay though.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> Well I really don't know what to think now. Just received a message from Dreamseller that they can ship my originally purchased monitor out Friday if I wish. If it was only a delay of four days I wish they hadn't said "delayed indefinitely".
> 
> So now I keep the X-star originally purchased at $299, easier to remove stand, and ships Friday. Or pick up a Qnix for $329 that ships sooner.


I think allot of these problems with specifics are language/translation problems. I'm pretty sure my one will be 0 pixels as it says pixel perfect but i know it also has the bit were it has copy and pasted info for the non perfect pixel option in it's description. The info also says the 4 dead pixels being ok is for the non perfect pixel option see in brackets bit. Anyway yes always some gamble but I'll save the details just in case etc. ...


----------



## Zelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> That's assuming that a Qnix you order today would actually ship sooner. It's already Wednesday in Korea, so the earliest someone else would ship would probably be Thursday, and could easily be longer.
> Let me guess, using the AMD 14.x drivers? That idle black screen flashing red light thing is a common problem with the 14.x drivers. 13.12 should work okay though.


Thanks wish AMD would get their drivers together. Could someone help me with the OC'ing?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zelo*
> 
> Thanks wish AMD would get their drivers together. Could someone help me with the OC'ing?


Don't use AMD CCC Reduce DVI Frequency. Instead, tighten your timings using CRU itself. Start by using LCD - reduced timings instead of automatic, and go from there eventually.


----------



## Yuri_RP

Hello, I received mine about a month ago. Only tested for Dead Pixel, haven't had the chance to test them yet. Still waiting for the Active Adapter and for this card to arrive.


Spoiler: Pictures



Got 3 of them to be used in Eyefinity
https://imageshack.com/i/nhgri6j
https://imageshack.com/i/nfg2h3j
https://imageshack.com/i/nfg30wxj
https://imageshack.com/i/nfez0z3j
https://imageshack.com/i/n8vk7dj
https://imageshack.com/i/n6jo26j

Originally planned to be used alongside these. But are too big and I'm already eyeing the one below this.








https://imageshack.com/i/n86sszj

Finally gonna use them using this. Waiting for the Active Adapter to Arrive.
https://imageshack.com/i/nbqgcrj



Anyone had experience using this monitor with 3x1 Eyefinity? Would really welcome the advice.

Thanks.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zelo*
> 
> Hello I just got my two Qnix monitors from ipdledmonitors and I'm very happy with them not having found any dead pixels. They look great coming from TN panels my whole life. Can someone help me with overclocking?
> 
> I'm using a 290x and only one of the monitors can reach 110Hz while the other can only reach 96Hz anything higher and it develops green lines across the top, and yes I've tried "Reduce dvi frequency" in CCC. Also I have another problem where if I leave my computer idle for to long the monitors will go into idle mode "red flashing light" and it gets stuck like that even if I move my mouse or press keys on my keyboard.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Hi yes try LCD - reduced in CRU as yasamoka has pointed out....However you will never hit 120hz with any AMD card and be able to down clock your cards ram with any timings you try!. ..You will always have to bring your vertical blanking values down that far to reach a pixel clock that is low enough to 450mhz to allow you to hit 120hz....My 120hz timings below will give you a very strong signal as they lower the pixel clock down to 459mhz which is only 9 mhz from the 450mhz limit and seem to work for most if not all that have a monitor that can indeed hit 120hz....However as i said you will not be able to down clock your ram using such low vertical blanking values!

So you can you can make presets in CCC to flick over to lower refresh rates on the desktop using keystrokes once you finish gaming!....Or simply set 110hz in CRU using standard LCD timings which will allow your ram to down clock on the desktop!... Which is what i do now 24/7!....Also i have set my games that support 120hz refresh rates to flick my monitor over to 120hz once i start the game and then once i finish the game it will put my monitor back to 110hz which allow my ram to downclock again on the desktop!

However it might just be worth staying at 110hz 24/7 (if your monitor can hit 110hz) and just forgetting 120hz as i really cant see the difference anyhow plus using LCD standard timings in CRU will allow your ram to downclock on the desktop using AMD cards

If your monitor is capable of hiting 120hz it will do it with these timings below!...However set a lower refresh rate for the desktop to lower your cards ram



110hz LCD Standard timings in CRU which will allow your ram to downclock on the desktop below


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yuri_RP*
> 
> Hello, I received mine about a month ago. Only tested for Dead Pixel, haven't had the chance to test them yet. Still waiting for the Active Adapter and for this card to arrive.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> Got 3 of them to be used in Eyefinity
> https://imageshack.com/i/nhgri6j
> https://imageshack.com/i/nfg2h3j
> https://imageshack.com/i/nfg30wxj
> https://imageshack.com/i/nfez0z3j
> https://imageshack.com/i/n8vk7dj
> https://imageshack.com/i/n6jo26j
> 
> Originally planned to be used alongside these. But are too big and I'm already eyeing the one below this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/n86sszj
> 
> Finally gonna use them using this. Waiting for the Active Adapter to Arrive.
> https://imageshack.com/i/nbqgcrj
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone had experience using this monitor with 3x1 Eyefinity? Would really welcome the advice.
> 
> Thanks.


Wow that is some serous graphic horse power you have there!...I have a powercolor pcs+ card and was thinking of buying another one for crossfire as that card is bloody awesome!...However being a triple slot cards there would of only been a few millimetres in-between them!.. I was thinking that the top card would most likely overheat?...So i bought a Gigabyte windforce to go in the top slot above the powercolor pcs+ which has worked out perfect!....Did you attempt to crossfire the powercolor cards and did the top card overheat?


----------



## 4GHz

Wow. This is a huge thread. I hope someone didn't already ask this, but I'd like to know what the difference between the various models is.
First, which one is better, the PLS or the AH-VA panel?
And then there are various models (all of them LED Evolution II) with different endings: none, SE, Multi TRUE10, DPmulti TRUE 10.
I hope someone can help me decide.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> Wow. This is a huge thread. I hope someone didn't already ask this, but I'd like to know what the difference between the various models is.
> First, which one is better, the PLS or the AH-VA panel?
> And then there are various models (all of them LED Evolution II) with different endings: none, SE, Multi TRUE10, DPmulti TRUE 10.
> I hope someone can help me decide.


Well from what I have read true 10s don't overclock well se is not good can't remember why. It's the basic version single dual dvi connection ones that overclock. Pls is the screen made by Samsung Not sure what the other one you said was anyway 3 of us just bought one I think so check back over the last few pages to see what we did also look at the start of this thread for info. And I'm not an expert just started on this a few days back...


----------



## monkeytommo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Can you better describe these vertical lines that you are seeing?....IE...Do they look like green scan lines etc?....or better still upload a picture of them!.....Also please post a screenshot of your timings in NVCP which i hope you are using having a Nvidia card.. you need to install the Qnix monitor driver which i have linked below if you are indeed overclocking via NVCP


Hey man, thank you so much for offering your assistance. Ok, here is a screen grab of my timings -

And here's an image of the lines (iphone photo, it's totally black and white through the naked eye) -


Any help you can offer me is appreciated.

Also, I'm guessing I'll have to change this all again when my PSU comes and I put in my 2nd GTX 680? Thanks again bud.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeytommo*
> 
> Hey man, thank you so much for offering your assistance. Ok, here is a screen grab of my timings -
> 
> And here's an image of the lines (iphone photo, it's totally black and white through the naked eye) -
> 
> 
> Any help you can offer me is appreciated.
> 
> Also, I'm guessing I'll have to change this all again when my PSU comes and I put in my 2nd GTX 680? Thanks again bud.


Use these timings below for your 120hz custom resalution in in NVCP...Your pixel clock is nearly 500mhz!....No wonder you have these lines or infact have any picture at all!...your monitors PCB Board pixel clock limit is 450mhz so only slightly above that or anything below it will be fine but nearly 50mhz over it will give you artefacts and most would be greeted with a black screen i think running such a high pixel clock lol

If these timings work you can then try to up your values in an attempt to allow your ram to down clock on the desktop...Many Nvidia cards users can use default timings and hit 120hz which will give them a pixel clock or around 480mhz...However i do not know how you have hit a pixel clock of 497mhz?

Also yes you most likely will be able to keep these timings when you are running SLI you will just need to use the *full patch*


----------



## 4GHz

Quote:


> Well from what I have read true 10s don't overclock well se is not good can't remember why. It's the basic version single dual dvi connection ones that overclock. Pls is the screen made by Samsung Not sure what the other one you said was anyway 3 of us just bought one I think so check back over the last few pages to see what we did also look at the start of this thread for info. And I'm not an expert just started on this a few days back...


Doesn't help me much...

Edit: Sorry, forgot to quote.


----------



## Rmerwede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rmerwede*
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> Driven myself crazy lately with all the monitor research. Was gonna hold out for ROG Swift, but its TN, expensive, G-Sync still has issues etc... Can anyone recommend a good seller? Would like to get from Amazon. Also any recommendations on which model, perfect pixel, etc. would be helpful. Trying to avoid *excessive* PWM, bleeding, coil whine. Looking for Glossy/Glass. I figure at this price, you really can't go wrong.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


So I pulled the trigger on a PP QNIX QX2710 EV II from Amazon. I decided on the PP because it seems to have a better return policy. I figured I can get this monitor, and a used 780 for the same price as the ROG Swift.

Thanks all, looking forward to all the knowledge and goodness in this thread.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Only the single input Qnix/X-Star, Yamakasi 2B Extreme and Overlord Tempest X270OC overclock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> Doesn't help me much...


Hi if you are looking for a overclockable monitor then read the quote above yours from MenacingTuba.


----------



## 4GHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi if you are looking for a overclockable monitor then read the quote above yours from MenacingTuba.


Sorry, I'm not exactly looking for overclocking, I just want to see the differences between the models. I was hoping to get a reply on such a popular thread


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> Wow. This is a huge thread. I hope someone didn't already ask this, but I'd like to know what the difference between the various models is.
> First, which one is better, the PLS or the AH-VA panel?
> And then there are various models (all of them LED Evolution II) with different endings: none, SE, Multi TRUE10, DPmulti TRUE 10.
> I hope someone can help me decide.


To summarize, this PLS panel is one of if not the best for the price. You gain all of the advantages of IPS but better color accuracy with Samsung's PLS tech. It's also relevant to the actual model, but you get the idea.

The True 10 (both versions) are the new 'replacement' Qnix models and the 'Multi' model features DVI-D, HDMI, and VGA inputs, but they're considered worthless due to 2 frames of input lag and frameskipping when overclocked to anything above 60hz.

The True 10 DP model is the same as the other, but it has a display port.

The SE model apparently is prone to having dead pixels more often than other models.

The Evolution II model is the original and it's what you want.


----------



## 4GHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> Wow. This is a huge thread. I hope someone didn't already ask this, but I'd like to know what the difference between the various models is.
> First, which one is better, the PLS or the AH-VA panel?
> And then there are various models (all of them LED Evolution II) with different endings: none, SE, Multi TRUE10, DPmulti TRUE 10.
> I hope someone can help me decide.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> To summarize, this PLS panel is one of if not the best for the price. You gain all of the advantages of IPS but better color accuracy with Samsung's PLS tech. It's also relevant to the actual model, but you get the idea.
> 
> The True 10 (both versions) are the new 'replacement' Qnix models and the 'Multi' model features DVI-D, HDMI, and VGA inputs, but they're considered worthless due to 2 frames of input lag and frameskipping when overclocked to anything above 60hz.
> 
> The True 10 DP model is the same as the other, but it has a display port.
> 
> The SE model apparently is prone to having dead pixels more often than other models.
> 
> The Evolution II model is the original and it's what you want.


I've read that the DPmulti model has too much input lag, but the Multi too?
And is the input lag because of the additional ports or the panel?
Also, has someone compared PLS and AH-VA side by side?
I know, many questions, I'm kind of a noob in this area


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> I've read that the DPmulti model has too much input lag, but the Multi too?
> 
> And is the input lag because of the additional ports or the panel?


Yes, it's due to the scaler, so both versions have the input lag.


----------



## 4GHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> Wow. This is a huge thread. I hope someone didn't already ask this, but I'd like to know what the difference between the various models is.
> First, which one is better, the PLS or the AH-VA panel?
> And then there are various models (all of them LED Evolution II) with different endings: none, SE, Multi TRUE10, DPmulti TRUE 10.
> I hope someone can help me decide.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Yes, it's due to the scaler, so both versions have the input lag.


And I guess the 10-bit color range doesn't make a difference either?
I guess I'm gonna get the simple model then


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> And I guess the 10-bit color range doesn't make a difference either?


Nope, because it's not real 10bit.


----------



## dpl2007

Just thought I would report back my monitor got sent right away I'm thinking they are not running out of them yet it was a false alarm probably language barrier. I see my package is in kangnam airport gangnam style :s ...


----------



## McLaren_F1

@lawson67, What color profile do you use for 110Hz? same as 120Hz?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> @lawson67, What color profile do you use for 110Hz? same as 120Hz?


To be honest with you yes i do however i could make a 110hz profile as i have a colorimeter but my 120hz profile looks just great anyhow and i cant be bothered to make another one for 110hz which wont look much different anyhow lol


----------



## hybridxer0

I still need to get mine overclocked/tweaked... I consider myself a videophile, but this monitor is perfect -- the clarity, the color, etc. I'd love to see what the limits are of this thing...


----------



## Purostaff

Just got mine hooked up... huge difference to my 5 year old BenQ FP241VW

1 dead pixel at super top left

perfect backlight (no bleed)

seller is dream-seller @ $299.90 + 3 year square trade warranty ($41.99)

gonna play around with OC and other stuff tomorrow after I get off work


----------



## Zelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi yes try LCD - reduced in CRU as yasamoka has pointed out....However you will never hit 120hz with any AMD card and be able to down clock your cards ram with any timings you try!. ..You will always have to bring your vertical blanking values down that far to reach a pixel clock that is low enough to 450mhz to allow you to hit 120hz....My 120hz timings below will give you a very strong signal as they lower the pixel clock down to 459mhz which is only 9 mhz from the 450mhz limit and seem to work for most if not all that have a monitor that can indeed hit 120hz....However as i said you will not be able to down clock your ram using such low vertical blanking values!
> 
> So you can you can make presets in CCC to flick over to lower refresh rates on the desktop using keystrokes once you finish gaming!....Or simply set 110hz in CRU using standard LCD timings which will allow your ram to down clock on the desktop!... Which is what i do now 24/7!....Also i have set my games that support 120hz refresh rates to flick my monitor over to 120hz once i start the game and then once i finish the game it will put my monitor back to 110hz which allow my ram to downclock again on the desktop!
> 
> However it might just be worth staying at 110hz 24/7 (if your monitor can hit 110hz) and just forgetting 120hz as i really cant see the difference anyhow plus using LCD standard timings in CRU will allow your ram to downclock on the desktop using AMD cards
> 
> If your monitor is capable of hiting 120hz it will do it with these timings below!...However set a lower refresh rate for the desktop to lower your cards ram
> 
> 
> 
> 110hz LCD Standard timings in CRU which will allow your ram to downclock on the desktop below


Okay so LCD Reduced for 110Hz worked for both monitors but I get those scan lines on the sides.. I read toastyx has a fix but that the fix doesn't work when playing games in full screen is that correct? I might just keep both monitors at 96Hz but it would be nice if I could get them both to 110Hz. The other 110Hz timings in your image don't work for me.


----------



## bbond007

I got my x-star












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







cheers!


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> And I guess the 10-bit color range doesn't make a difference either?


Nope
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Nope, because it's not real 10bit.


Correct it uses an 8 Bit +FRC panel and 10 bit consumer media does not exist. Also, one needs an AMD Firepro or Nvidia Quadro gpu to send/receive a 10 bit signal and to use one of the few programs (certain versions of Photoshop) which support 10 bit content.


----------



## monkeytommo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Use these timings below for your 120hz custom resalution in in NVCP...Your pixel clock is nearly 500mhz!....No wonder you have these lines or infact have any picture at all!...your monitors PCB Board pixel clock limit is 450mhz so only slightly above that or anything below it will be fine but nearly 50mhz over it will give you artefacts and most would be greeted with a black screen i think running such a high pixel clock lol
> 
> If these timings work you can then try to up your values in an attempt to allow your ram to down clock on the desktop...Many Nvidia cards users can use default timings and hit 120hz which will give them a pixel clock or around 480mhz...However i do not know how you have hit a pixel clock of 497mhz?
> 
> Also yes you most likely will be able to keep these timings when you are running SLI you will just need to use the *full patch*


Hey man,

Thanks for trying, but I'm still getting the lines even with your settings. I mentioned before that they appear at 80, 96, and 120... So maybe my monitor isn't cut out for it? I have to be honest that I'm not really sure what all those settings mean though, so I'm not sure how I could try tweaking it more!

To be honest, it still looks great at 60Hz, but having the option to go up to 120 for gaming would be awesome... I'll keep tinkering and would welcome other suggestions


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Use these timings below for your 120hz custom resalution in in NVCP...Your pixel clock is nearly 500mhz!....No wonder you have these lines or infact have any picture at all!...your monitors PCB Board pixel clock limit is 450mhz so only slightly above that or anything below it will be fine but nearly 50mhz over it will give you artefacts and most would be greeted with a black screen i think running such a high pixel clock lol
> 
> If these timings work you can then try to up your values in an attempt to allow your ram to down clock on the desktop...Many Nvidia cards users can use default timings and hit 120hz which will give them a pixel clock or around 480mhz...However i do not know how you have hit a pixel clock of 497mhz?
> 
> Also yes you most likely will be able to keep these timings when you are running SLI you will just need to use the *full patch*


Hi lawson, i tried these timings before for 120hz but they didn't work. fortunately though, they were fantastic for 110hz. only problem for me is that my gpu doesn't downclock when i have 110hz as a setting. i have a gtx 780 ti. would you happen to know the remedy for that?

EDIT: Oh, and how does changing the "pixel count" and timings affect how many pixels are on your screen? is there a difference in image quality as well?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

A while back i saw something about running Nvidia cards and updating drivers on these monitors....There is currently a new Nvidia driver out and i cnt remember what/what not to do before installing said driver....

If anyone can point me in the right direction i would be grateful,thx in advance....


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeytommo*
> 
> Hey man,
> 
> Thanks for trying, but I'm still getting the lines even with your settings. I mentioned before that they appear at 80, 96, and 120... So maybe my monitor isn't cut out for it? I have to be honest that I'm not really sure what all those settings mean though, so I'm not sure how I could try tweaking it more!
> 
> To be honest, it still looks great at 60Hz, but having the option to go up to 120 for gaming would be awesome... I'll keep tinkering and would welcome other suggestions


Sorry to here you are still getting scan lines at such low refresh rate as 80hz!....Have you tried using the patch?....Also I would be inclined to try another duel link cable or even try another DVI-D port on my GPU if you have one and check that the cable is tight and secured properly as i have never known one of this monitors to not be able to hit 80hz.....Most if not all of theses monitors can hit at least 96hz!.... i believe you may have another problem going on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Hi lawson, i tried these timings before for 120hz but they didn't work. fortunately though, they were fantastic for 110hz. only problem for me is that my gpu doesn't downclock when i have 110hz as a setting. i have a gtx 780 ti. would you happen to know the remedy for that?
> 
> EDIT: Oh, and how does changing the "pixel count" and timings affect how many pixels are on your screen? is there a difference in image quality as well?


Well i am glad they helped you hit 110hz it sounds that your monitor may not be capable of hitting 120hz!....Not all can!...Some have managed to hit 120hz by changing cables... Higher quality cables have helped in some cases but is never a guarantee...Also a simple DVI-D port change on the GPU has enabled people to hit 120hz!...However 110hz is more than fine i run 110hz 24/7 even though my monitor is more than capable of hitting 120hz so i would be happy with 110hz and stick with it!

Ok so now i want you to try theses timings below which should allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop at 110hz...The lower vertical blanking values that you use does not allow enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen and this is why your memory can not down clock as it is right now!...However those timings lower the pixel clock at 120hz much closer to the 450mhz limit at 120hz and will give a very strong signal which will enable some that can not hit 120hz to indeed hit it!....But 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen...but most will be happy to change to 60hz or even 110hz on the desktop if those are the only timings that will allow them to hit 120hz.

Ok use these 110hz timings BELOW and transfer them to NVCP...Yes i know you can not find back porch and blanking in NVCP however they will set themselves automatically when you transfer front porch and sync width and set the totals in NVCP!....These timings will allow you to hit 110hz and allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zelo*
> 
> Okay so LCD Reduced for 110Hz worked for both monitors but I get those scan lines on the sides.. I read toastyx has a fix but that the fix doesn't work when playing games in full screen is that correct? I might just keep both monitors at 96Hz but it would be nice if I could get them both to 110Hz. The other 110Hz timings in your image don't work for me.


It may be the fact that you are using duel monitors in that case jump over to toastyx forum and explane your problems to him and i am sure he will help you


----------



## Commiekaze

So after a few days of back and forth, the seller (green-sum) said that he will accept the defective monitor and pick it up. I guess this is a good indication of just how bad the monitor was. As a follow up, the top-right corner of the monitor was not suffering from backlight bleed. It was in fact a burn in. Its easy to tell if you take it out of the housing and test it. Pretty disappointed with the whole scenario thus far but lets see where it goes. I sent the seller my pickup information, now I just gotta make sure they fill all their paperwork out properly so I dont get charged double the import fees. I guess I have to start with calling Canada customs and finding out how to avoid that issue. This should be interesting.


----------



## blcpl

I've just recently bought a Qnix 2710, the DVI-only version. The monitor looks great, I have seen no dead pixels (but I don't particularly _want_ to look for them), and I have only minor backlight bleed out of the box, so I'm pretty happy with it.
I've been having issues with Catalyst and scaling options, though.

I want to be able to run games at lower resolutions (1080p) and have them displayed fullscreen. There's an option for Gpu scaling in the Catalyst control panel (under My digital flat panels->Properties->Enable GPU scaling), but it appears to be useless. Regardless of what the setting in the control panel is, some games (in my case, Dark Souls 2) run fullscreen, while others (Assassin's Creed 4) run 1:1 with black borders.

The settings _can_ be changed if I change the resolution of the desktop first, and the various options to preserve the aspect ratio or to display 1:1 appear to work fine on the desktop, but are ignored in games. I had issues like this before with an older monitor connected through HDMI, where some titles (like Arkham Origins) would decide to run 1:1 with black borders if I lowered the resolution, regardless of what I chose in the Catalyst control center.

Is there something I can do? This has been happening with multiple driver versions over the years, with two different cards (a 5770 first, a 7850 now). I don't really have the budget to get an Nvidia card, though I really, _really_ wish I could.


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blcpl*
> 
> I've just recently bought a Qnix 2710, the DVI-only version. The monitor looks great, I have seen no dead pixels (but I don't particularly _want_ to look for them), and I have only minor backlight bleed out of the box, so I'm pretty happy with it.
> I've been having issues with Catalyst and scaling options, though.
> 
> I want to be able to run games at lower resolutions (1080p) and have them displayed fullscreen. There's an option for Gpu scaling in the Catalyst control panel (under My digital flat panels->Properties->Enable GPU scaling), but it appears to be useless. Regardless of what the setting in the control panel is, some games (in my case, Dark Souls 2) run fullscreen, while others (Assassin's Creed 4) run 1:1 with black borders.
> 
> The settings _can_ be changed if I change the resolution of the desktop first, and the various options to preserve the aspect ratio or to display 1:1 appear to work fine on the desktop, but are ignored in games. I had issues like this before with an older monitor connected through HDMI, where some titles (like Arkham Origins) would decide to run 1:1 with black borders if I lowered the resolution, regardless of what I chose in the Catalyst control center.
> 
> Is there something I can do? This has been happening with multiple driver versions over the years, with two different cards (a 5770 first, a 7850 now). I don't really have the budget to get an Nvidia card, though I really, _really_ wish I could.


A number of modern games have resolution scaling built into the options (like dark souls 2 and battlefield 4) but I dont see why you would want to downscale from 1440p to 1080p while on a 1440p monitor. The obvious route would be to change the resolution on your monitor to 1920x1080 and the games will follow. I have tried 200% scaling but never 50% as that scenario has never presented itself. Why not just run a 1080p monitor native? A quick search did turn up some GPU scaling issues with older cards.

http://forums.amd.com/game/messageview.cfm?catid=461&threadid=133510

https://www.xgamingstudio.com/forum/showthread.php?122-RELEASE-ATI-GPU-Scaling-Fix-for-Windows-7


----------



## Blutch

Is the xstar and qnix the complete same?

Or do they have a different stand? bezel?

thanks


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blutch*
> 
> Is the xstar and qnix the complete same?
> 
> Or do they have a different stand? bezel?
> 
> thanks


*From the FAQ*
Q: Should I buy an X-star or a Qnix (Any differences? Which one will overclock better?)
A: Short answer: Choose whichever one you want.
Long answer: They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability.

Below are unboxing posts, gives a good view of both.

https://teksyndicate.com/forum/other-hardware/korean-1440p-monitor-x-star-dp2710-received-mine-today-take-look/147948

http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/monitor-channel-218/my-new-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ii-27-matte-pls-monitor-4200102.html


----------



## Wolvaras

I've just received my Qnix 2710, and followed the OC guide (both Nvidia pixel clock as the CRU). But for some reason it just won't budge any further than 60FPS/Hz on the frame skipper test.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20CRU.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20desktop.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20Nvidia.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20website.png

Restarted multiple times already.

Any ideas?


----------



## tietherope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blutch*
> 
> Is the xstar and qnix the complete same?
> 
> Or do they have a different stand? bezel?
> 
> thanks


I've read that on the X-star you can remove the stand without having to open up the monitor. Maybe someone else can confirm.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolvaras*
> 
> I've just received my Qnix 2710, and followed the OC guide (both Nvidia pixel clock as the CRU). But for some reason it just won't budge any further than 60FPS/Hz on the frame skipper test.
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20CRU.png
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20desktop.png
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20Nvidia.png
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20website.png
> 
> Restarted multiple times already.
> 
> Any ideas?


Make sure you use Google chrome and that in advanced settings you have *Use hardware acceleration when available* checked


----------



## Wolvaras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Make sure you use Google chrome and that in advanced settings you have *Use hardware acceleration when available* checked


No dice unfortunately. Chrome with hardware acceleration enabled yields the same results.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> @lawson67, What color profile do you use for 110Hz? same as 120Hz?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> To be honest with you yes i do however i could make a 110hz profile as i have a colorimeter but my 120hz profile looks just great anyhow and i cant be bothered to make another one for 110hz which wont look much different anyhow lol
Click to expand...

I was wondering when you might revert to 110Hz 24/7







... I have done the same, it's the best of both worlds, Desktop work apps --> gaming. I can't tell the difference between 110Hz and 120Hz and it seems only prudent for longevity keeping the pixel clock within spec! Especially after reading the only failures guys are having months down the road are from running flat out @120hz with or without tightened timings. I like my monitor to much and until someone convinces me it's OK to run a 483 pixel clock @120Hz even with my gpu ram properly downclocking ... or until I get some new Maxwells to push 120fps all the time ... I'll pass for now









I also use your 120Hz/200cdm profile @110Hz ... it looks great "for me" (no perceptible difference from 120Hz) even contrary to Yaz's thoughts earlier on 200cdm. I'm not trying to achieve "perfect color" for professional work on this rig.









*EDIT:* For fast twitch FPS I will set 120Hz in game when available ... and in most instances I now back my desktop overclock down to 96Hz for convenience and movie playback








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> Hi lawson, i tried these timings before for 120hz but they didn't work. fortunately though, they were fantastic for 110hz. only problem for me is that my gpu doesn't downclock when i have 110hz as a setting. i have a gtx 780 ti. would you happen to know the remedy for that?
> 
> EDIT: Oh, and how does changing the "pixel count" and timings affect how many pixels are on your screen? is there a difference in image quality as well?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok so now i want you to try theses timings below which should allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop at 110hz...The lower vertical blanking values that you use does not allow enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen and this is why your memory can not down clock as it is right now!...However those timings lower the pixel clock at 120hz much closer to the 450mhz limit at 120hz and will give a very strong signal which will enable some that can not hit 120hz to indeed hit it!....But 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen...but most will be happy to change to 60hz or even 110hz on the desktop if those are the only timings that will allow them to hit 120hz.
> 
> Ok use these 110hz timings BELOW and transfer them to NVCP...Yes i know you can not find back porch and blanking in NVCP however they will set themselves automatically when you transfer front porch and sync width and set the totals in NVCP!....These timings will allow you to hit 110hz and allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop
Click to expand...

I don't know if fredocini with achieve the normal gpu ram downclocking with those timings. It will be interesting to see, but I doubt it, as every time I varied the Nvidia CP timings for 110Hz or 120Hz my ram wouldn't downclock @ the desktop properly.

In the screenshot below my gpu ram downclocks normally at the desktop @110Hz with the "standard" timings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> A while back i saw something about running Nvidia cards and updating drivers on these monitors....There is currently a new Nvidia driver out and i cnt remember what/what not to do before installing said driver....
> 
> If anyone can point me in the right direction i would be grateful,thx in advance....


I believe it is still pretty straight forward for Nvidia ... clean install of the new beta drivers (reboot), then re-install the Full Patch (reboot), go to Nvidia CP reset your custom resolutions (timings?) ... and good to go, you don't have to mess with re-installing the Qnix monitor driver.

Note: Can't confirm yet, wether you even need the full patch for 780 SLI? ...

Toasty's quote ...

_If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. *The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
*_

You could also read a very useful post from Toasty ... *[HERE]
*


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> I've read that on the X-star you can remove the stand without having to open up the monitor. Maybe someone else can confirm.


Unless something recently changed, you still have to open up the xstar to remove the stand stem. They're literally exactly the same apart from the logo in the centre. I even ordered a qnix and recieved an xstar in the qnix box...


----------



## tietherope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Unless something recently changed, you still have to open up the xstar to remove the stand stem. They're literally exactly the same apart from the logo in the centre. I even ordered a qnix and recieved an xstar in the qnix box...


Here's is what I read, three different sites/people. With that many I assumed it was correct.

"If you're going to be mounting the screen, I would recommend the X-star over the Qnix. The two brands are virtually identical except for the fact that the little plastic stub that connects to the base is glued in on the Qnix, whereas you can yank it out with a bit of force on the X-star. If you want to remove the stand from the Qnix, you have to take the monitor apart and unscrew the stub from the inside."

"Let it be known that if you go with the X-Star DP2710 (same exact monitor) the glass stem can be removed by simply pulling on it, instead of having to open up the casing with the Qnix."

"I also removed the plastic stand stub from the bezel by pulling on it firmly (possible with X-star but not QNIX, which must be disassembled) and mounted the screen on a VESA arm."


----------



## Wolvaras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolvaras*
> 
> No dice unfortunately. Chrome with hardware acceleration enabled yields the same results.


Actually, ingame it actually says it's at 96FPS. So what should I believe?


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tietherope*
> 
> Here's is what I read, three different sites/people. With that many I assumed it was correct.
> 
> "If you're going to be mounting the screen, I would recommend the X-star over the Qnix. The two brands are virtually identical except for the fact that the little plastic stub that connects to the base is glued in on the Qnix, whereas you can yank it out with a bit of force on the X-star. If you want to remove the stand from the Qnix, you have to take the monitor apart and unscrew the stub from the inside."
> 
> "Let it be known that if you go with the X-Star DP2710 (same exact monitor) the glass stem can be removed by simply pulling on it, instead of having to open up the casing with the Qnix."
> 
> "I also removed the plastic stand stub from the bezel by pulling on it firmly (possible with X-star but not QNIX, which must be disassembled) and mounted the screen on a VESA arm."


Hmm, I opened up both of mine as they're on monitor arms now. They were both screwed in for me. Again, I bought these around December last year so it may have changed, haven't looked into anything like this since I made the purchase. If they were glued they wouldn't be able to tilt, I think they're all advertised with that feature.


----------



## tietherope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hmm, I opened up both of mine as they're on monitor arms now. They were both screwed in for me. Again, I bought these around December last year so it may have changed, haven't looked into anything like this since I made the purchase. If they were glued they wouldn't be able to tilt, I think they're all advertised with that feature.


Well I'll let everyone know next week when I get mine!


----------



## Blutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Commiekaze*
> 
> *From the FAQ*
> Q: Should I buy an X-star or a Qnix (Any differences? Which one will overclock better?)
> A: Short answer: Choose whichever one you want.
> Long answer: They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability.
> 
> Below are unboxing posts, gives a good view of both.
> 
> https://teksyndicate.com/forum/other-hardware/korean-1440p-monitor-x-star-dp2710-received-mine-today-take-look/147948
> 
> http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/monitor-channel-218/my-new-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ii-27-matte-pls-monitor-4200102.html


i understand the panel is the same but is the stand, frame aswell?


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blutch*
> 
> i understand the panel is the same but is the stand, frame aswell?


Yes, exactly the same.


----------



## MenacingTuba

My X-Star's stand can be pulled out while my Qnix's stand can't be.


----------



## Blutch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Yes, exactly the same.


thank you sire


----------



## King PWNinater

Is 6 milliseconds (6 ms) 0.006 seconds?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Is 6 milliseconds (6 ms) 0.006 seconds?


Yes, but ignore the stated specs for response times. They're never accurate.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Is the pixel perfect one worth it?


----------



## 13bgarli

Well after using my Qnix for a few days now I've decided to get a different DVI-D cable to see if I can get any different refresh rate. Right now I'm stuck at 96hz anything even slightly above this (even 105hz) will give me some purple colors running around the screen that aren't always noticeable. I picked one of these up http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top I'm hoping I can get a little more out of it maybe, I've tried it on my GTX 770 and AMD 5870 and get the same results with the old cable so hopefully this new one will work better! I'll post the results, it should be here tomorrow.


----------



## enkur

Lawson.. thank you so much for the 110Hz settings. I used them and my SLI setup properly downclocks great.

Thank you again.

cheers.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I believe it is still pretty straight forward for Nvidia ... clean install of the new beta drivers (reboot), then re-install the Full Patch (reboot), go to Nvidia CP reset your custom resolutions (timings?) ... and good to go, you don't have to mess with re-installing the Qnix monitor driver.
> 
> Note: Can't confirm yet, wether you even need the full patch for 780 SLI? ...
> 
> Toasty's quote ...
> 
> _If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. *The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
> *_
> 
> You could also read a very useful post from Toasty ... *[HERE]
> *


Thx for the help....


----------



## Commiekaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blutch*
> 
> i understand the panel is the same but is the stand, frame aswell?


I posted the 2 unboxing links because you can see both monitors in those as well as the stand and frame. Theres a bunch out there to see. In terms of appearance its really a matter of whether you get the matte, glossy or tempered glass I guess.


----------



## Pistol Petah

Pretty weird issue here, following a windows update my 120hz overclock keeps reverting back to 60hz. Every time I try to set it back 120, it goes back to 60 only after about 10 seconds. I have had no issues with the over clock before and I have had the monitor for a long while now so I don't really know what could be causing it to do this. I have tried repatching the driver and redoing the overclock but the issue persists any ideas?


----------



## stephenwileyrn

Just ordered my QNIX QX2710

Very excited. Went with the Tempered Glass version. (Wanted glossy but couldn't find any for sale)

Didn't go with a perfect pixel model because none were available in tempered glass/glossy.

Ordered a 28AWG cable (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ3WI8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1400213702&sr=8-2&keywords=dvi-d+dual+link)

Here is the link for the TV I purchased....eBay seller green-sum

Here is the link for my actual purchase....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121089977041?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Also added a 3 year square trade warranty for $41 just to be safe. Total was about $342 with free expedited shipping included. (Still doesn't appear to be shipped though and I ordered 24 hrs ago)

Very excited, but never really had a high quality monitor. On an Acer G Series 24" 1080p right now.

Is overclocking monitors hard? I'm really not one to enjoy sitting there testing one thing after another. Would love to just dial in a safe overclock speed (maybe 96hz) and go with it.

Any suggestions/tips/heads up welcome. I've been reading through this thread and others trying to learn as much as I can but it's hard to cover an 1800 page thread.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

That's great, but you run a high chance of being extremely disappointed with the tempered glass version.


----------



## blitzed604

Hey guys just received my X star from dream seller. I shipped it to Ferndale and drove it across the border to BC, paid absolutely no duties doing that so im happy i paid only $289. Monitor looks great and have absolutely no dead pixel. Ive also overclocked it to 120hz but i think its too good to be true, i went to the frame skip website waited until it said valid and it said 120fps 120hz, then i pulled out my samsung s4 and took a picture using the camera and it snapped a picture with a solid bar, do i need to change any settings on my s4 or is my monitor actually doing 120hz? im saying its too good to be true because i have horrible luck and im surprised i actually got a 120hz monitor with no dead pixels and with very little back light bleed in the bottom right and top right corner.

Second question is how do i use color sustainer? after i reboot my computer i open color sustainer and click on "generic pnp" then 2560x1440 resolution then [email protected] i then checkmark the associate buttton and click on browse and navigate to lawson color profile "Native dispcal 120hz 200cdm.icm and hit the associate button and the associate button font turns green. im assuming the color profile has changed and kicked in at this point, what happens when i reboot my computer do i have to go into color sustainer and do it again? because the associate button is not there anymore after i reboot, but the associate checkmark is there so im assuming i did it right....(please see screen shot below showing associate button not there after reboot)

Third questions i set preset in CCC(i have a r9 290x). I did this by opening CCC then clicking on desktop management and then changed refresh rate to 60hz hit apply and then went to preset and then add preset. then i went back to Desktop management and changed it to 120hz then apply and and then add preset, now i have to preset which i can double click on to change between the two am i correct? is there anyway to test if im getting 120 vs 60hz

Now once i switch from 120hz preset to 60hz preset to i need to change the color profile thing ins color sustainer again?

Ive added a few screen shots please let me know if everything is ok

is this setting ok for 120hz?


http://imgur.com/yMvyD5R


Here is a screenshot of the associate button not being there after i reboot, does that mean the color profile is automatically selected?- http://i.imgur.com/0ujmbwt.jpg

Very last question i have is, am i using the right color profile its labelled Native dispcal 120hz 200cdm.icm i believe from "lawson", people on the forums have mentioned a certain number of brightness clicks but i couldnt find how many times to hit the brightness+ button from an absolute dim to get the best question.

Sorry for all the questions its just the original post has not been updated and any googling i find i keep coming across outdated programs and patches and methods being used

Oh very last question do i need a driver for my monitor if i have a r9 290x or is that only needed for nvidia(keep in mind i have a r9 290x) and im mostly going to be playing battlefield 4 do i still need the color profile set and CCC set to 120hz? or do i need to just select 2560x1440 120hz in video settings of the game and not change between 60 and 120hz in CCC

Thanks alot you guys sorry for all the questions and hopefully this helps out any other absolute noobs like me!


----------



## stephenwileyrn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> That's great, but you run a high chance of being extremely disappointed with the tempered glass version.


Oh no. Why? I just want something very vivid and bright. Room is dark so sunlight is not a concern. Currently have a matte monitor and can't stand that "dead" look it has. I want bright, vivid colors.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenwileyrn*
> 
> Oh no. Why? I just want something very vivid and bright. Room is dark so sunlight is not a concern. Currently have a matte monitor and can't stand that "dead" look it has. I want bright, vivid colors.


The tempered glass ones apparently have a very high chance of having dust trapped between the the glass and actual screen.

I do know the matte filter on the Qnix' is light, but it's your choice, I wouldn't critique it, just informing you about the tempered glass issue.

And your current display appearing "dead" might just be that matte coating and panel tech/model too, just saying.


----------



## monkeytommo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> The tempered glass ones apparently have a very high chance of having dust trapped between the the glass and actual screen.
> 
> I do know the matte filter on the Qnix' is light, but it's your choice, I wouldn't critique it, just informing you about the tempered glass issue.
> 
> And your current display appearing "dead" might just be that matte coating and panel tech/model too, just saying.


I bought the tempered glass version too, and despite what everyone is saying about blacks looking grey, and dust under the glass, I'm not experiencing any of these problems. In fact, blacks look black and whites look white. It's awesome for me, can understand if it's not for others. Also, if you don't like it I hear you can just remove the glass and it's a glossy underneath! I need to take mine on a long trip soon, hence getting the tempered glass version... Now I'm not planning on taking the glass off.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pistol Petah*
> 
> Pretty weird issue here, following a windows update my 120hz overclock keeps reverting back to 60hz. Every time I try to set it back 120, it goes back to 60 only after about 10 seconds. I have had no issues with the over clock before and I have had the monitor for a long while now so I don't really know what could be causing it to do this. I have tried repatching the driver and redoing the overclock but the issue persists any ideas?


Mine was doing that for a while too (although it has stopped now for some reason) but the way I solved it was to set the 120Hz setting and apply, and then set 60Hz and apply, and then when it reverts it'll revert to 120Hz.


----------



## stephenwileyrn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> The tempered glass ones apparently have a very high chance of having dust trapped between the the glass and actual screen.
> 
> I do know the matte filter on the Qnix' is light, but it's your choice, I wouldn't critique it, just informing you about the tempered glass issue.
> 
> And your current display appearing "dead" might just be that matte coating and panel tech/model too, just saying.


I see. Well considering my current monitor is a cheap Acer you're probably right. I'm not afraid of any glare or lighting though because I can always add dark curtains for that.

Dirt behind the glass would obviously be a huge issue.

So if I don't like the tempered glass I can remove it and it's a glossy? If true, nice!


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monkeytommo*
> 
> I bought the tempered glass version too, and despite what everyone is saying about blacks looking grey, and dust under the glass, I'm not experiencing any of these problems. In fact, blacks look black and whites look white. It's awesome for me, can understand if it's not for others. Also, if you don't like it I hear you can just remove the glass and it's a glossy underneath! I need to take mine on a long trip soon, hence getting the tempered glass version... Now I'm not planning on taking the glass off.


Some people get lucky, other's don't.

I can't comment about removing the glass as I haven't paid that much attention to people commenting about the tempered version, although I'm sure I've read in a few places that the glass is actually attached to the screen. I could be thinking of another model, but I might not be, so I'm just putting that out there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenwileyrn*
> 
> I see. Well considering my current monitor is a cheap Acer you're probably right. I'm not afraid of any glare or lighting though because I can always add dark curtains for that.
> 
> Dirt behind the glass would obviously be a huge issue.
> 
> So if I don't like the tempered glass I can remove it and it's a glossy? If true, nice!


As I said above I actually don't know, I know I remember people talking about a tempered glass panel where the glass is actually attached to the screen, but it could be another model, I haven't paid much attention to anything that isn't matte, but just in case I'm putting it out there.

Other people should eventually comment and confirm if you can remove it or not.


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Sorry to here you are still getting scan lines at such low refresh rate as 80hz!....Have you tried using the patch?....Also I would be inclined to try another duel link cable or even try another DVI-D port on my GPU if you have one and check that the cable is tight and secured properly as i have never known one of this monitors to not be able to hit 80hz.....Most if not all of theses monitors can hit at least 96hz!.... i believe you may have another problem going on.
> Well i am glad they helped you hit 110hz it sounds that your monitor may not be capable of hitting 120hz!....Not all can!...Some have managed to hit 120hz by changing cables... Higher quality cables have helped in some cases but is never a guarantee...Also a simple DVI-D port change on the GPU has enabled people to hit 120hz!...However 110hz is more than fine i run 110hz 24/7 even though my monitor is more than capable of hitting 120hz so i would be happy with 110hz and stick with it!
> 
> Ok so now i want you to try theses timings below which should allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop at 110hz...The lower vertical blanking values that you use does not allow enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen and this is why your memory can not down clock as it is right now!...However those timings lower the pixel clock at 120hz much closer to the 450mhz limit at 120hz and will give a very strong signal which will enable some that can not hit 120hz to indeed hit it!....But 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen...but most will be happy to change to 60hz or even 110hz on the desktop if those are the only timings that will allow them to hit 120hz.
> 
> Ok use these 110hz timings BELOW and transfer them to NVCP...Yes i know you can not find back porch and blanking in NVCP however they will set themselves automatically when you transfer front porch and sync width and set the totals in NVCP!....These timings will allow you to hit 110hz and allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop
> 
> 
> It may be the fact that you are using duel monitors in that case jump over to toastyx forum and explane your problems to him and i am sure he will help you


thank you so much for your response lawson! this works perfectly. will it be safe to run this setting 24/7? and will it affect any sort of image quality?


----------



## stephenwileyrn

I do have a few question thoughs, and I apologize if they have already been answered (I have not seen them answered but I'm sure they have been) I hate to be that guy who asks an obvious question that's probably been answered 100 times, but I can't find any answers to them.

I'm on an AMD R9 290 - I see pretty much everyone saying they use the nVidia Pixel Clock Patcher (with a custom setting of 120hz 2560x1440) and/or nVidia control panel

#1 Can I use these nVidia programs with an AMD card, or will I need to find and use different software?

#2 Can I run this QNIX monitor alongside my 1080p 24" G series Acer? (I ordered the dvi-d dual link only panel)

#3 Will a r9 290 be able to run 1440p with high settings and stay at a high FPS? It is one of the ones with an aftermarket cooler (Windforce 3x from gigabyte) and I have it OC'd to 1ghz at the time.

Thanks in advance guys


----------



## Wolvaras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolvaras*
> 
> I've just received my Qnix 2710, and followed the OC guide (both Nvidia pixel clock as the CRU). But for some reason it just won't budge any further than 60FPS/Hz on the frame skipper test.
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20CRU.png
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20desktop.png
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20Nvidia.png
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20website.png
> 
> Restarted multiple times already.
> 
> Any ideas?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolvaras*
> 
> Actually, ingame it actually says it's at 96FPS. So what should I believe?


Alright. So right now it's only the test site that says I'm running at 60hz. Every game that can have different refresh rates list the ones that are available on the desktop, and those games always show higher than 60FPS. So, what gives?


----------



## davey1694

Ok so I was taking my monitor apart because I want to VESA mount it without the stand sticking out at the bottom and while I was doing this I accidentally pulled a cable and the individual wires came out of the connector.

Now that I've put the wires back in to the connector my display is quite dark even at full brightness, so does anybody know what type of cable it is and does anybody know what it's purpose is?

I have made up an album of the cable here


http://imgur.com/ou6dJ

 it's the cable with one red wire and the rest are white.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenwileyrn*
> 
> I do have a few question thoughs, and I apologize if they have already been answered (I have not seen them answered but I'm sure they have been) I hate to be that guy who asks an obvious question that's probably been answered 100 times, but I can't find any answers to them.
> 
> I'm on an AMD R9 290 - I see pretty much everyone saying they use the nVidia Pixel Clock Patcher (with a custom setting of 120hz 2560x1440) and/or nVidia control panel
> 
> #1 Can I use these nVidia programs with an AMD card, or will I need to find and use different software?
> 
> #2 Can I run this QNIX monitor alongside my 1080p 24" G series Acer? (I ordered the dvi-d dual link only panel)
> 
> #3 Will a r9 290 be able to run 1440p with high settings and stay at a high FPS? It is one of the ones with an aftermarket cooler (Windforce 3x from gigabyte) and I have it OC'd to 1ghz at the time.
> 
> Thanks in advance guys


#1- you will install amd catalyst driver than run the AMD pixel patcher located here pixel patcher Than you will reboot and use CRU to set your resolution (see lawsons guide) then reboot -CRU is located here : CRU

It is literally a two step process and easy as can be, nothing to be scared of doing

#2 I believe you can but I dont believe you can overclock at the same time, I may be wrong though. lawson would probably know, he knows everything about these lol.

#3 1440p will probably require lowing a couple things like AA or such to hit the high fps like 100-120fps with just one 290.

pretty much any question you have will be answered here( http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Forum-Monitors ), toastyX is the guy who made all the stuff to get this working, so if you have a question ask him or ask lawson67(dude is very helpful)


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> Second question is how do i use color sustainer? after i reboot my computer i open color sustainer and click on "generic pnp" then 2560x1440 resolution then [email protected] i then checkmark the associate buttton and click on browse and navigate to lawson color profile "Native dispcal 120hz 200cdm.icm and hit the associate button and the associate button font turns green. im assuming the color profile has changed and kicked in at this point, what happens when i reboot my computer do i have to go into color sustainer and do it again? because the associate button is not there anymore after i reboot, but the associate checkmark is there so im assuming i did it right....(please see screen shot below showing associate button not there after reboot)


http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=4813132&postcount=104

Also, there is a README.docx file that I provide with every single build of Color Sustainer. Did you read it?

*From the readme:*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *README*
> *Run on Startup*
> If either setting is / both settings are checked within "Run on Startup", the application will run on startup. If both settings are not checked, the application will not run on startup.
> Start Automatically: Starts the process of detection and color profile application (mentioned below) automatically with the application on startup
> Minimize to Tray: Keeps the application minimized to tray on startup
> 
> *Detection and Color Profile Application*
> Press File-->Start to start the process of detecting changes in displays and display modes and applying the associated color profiles for their respective display modes.


They are below each other.
Quote:


> Now once i switch from 120hz preset to 60hz preset to i need to change the color profile thing ins color sustainer again?


The whole point of the application is that it automatically switches color profiles as you switch refresh rates.


----------



## rick19011

Does anyone else get a flicker on the new NVIDIA beta drivers, like a quick split second flicker every 10-15 seconds? it's fine on the non-beta drivers..


----------



## dawnoftheh3ro

Need some help with a few questions regarding OC the monitor!

I'm using the Qnix 2710 matte monitor and until recently have only been using it with a single GTX 780. I just installed another 780 though 2 days ago. Up until then I wasn't using the full patch, and even with the new SLI setup I still don't think I need to use the full patch if I'm not going over the 400mhz pixel clock limit, AND Toasty also mentioned Titan and 780 users wouldn't need the full patch for SLI. Is that true? So far I've only been able to get my Qnix to 93 hz, anything higher than that some weird faint discoloration appears on the screen (its like a vertical band but very patchy).

#1. 93hz is around 374mhz on the pixel clock which is still below 400, so should i just stick with the partial patch or go with the full?

#2. What's the difference in the CRU app provided here, from the one provided by windows? (right click desktop, screen resolution, advanced settings, create custom resolution)

#3. For awhile I couldn't get the refresh rate created in CRU to show up in my control panel resolutions, presumably due to GeForce Experience being installed. Instead of uninstalling GeForce Exp or importing that blank.dat file he mentioned, I found a tool in EVGA Precision X that lets you create a custom refresh rate by adjusting the Pixel Clock via a slider. I just raised it to 93 hz and applied the setting and voila! It shows up in nvidia control panel and the windows resolution menu, as well as in game. The refresh rate tester website he provided also verified the screen was running at 93 hz. Has anyone else used this instead of the CRU? Is it legit?

#4. Is there anything I can do to get it higher than 93 hz without that weird discoloration? I was just wondering if I did use the CRU app and maybe adjusted the values in there (which I have no idea at all what they mean, e.g. front porch, back porch, blanking, etc) if it would allow a successful higher refresh rate. And if I do use the CRU app do I need to match the pixel clock value in there with the pixel clock slider bar in Precision X? Will one override the other?

Thanks for any help. Its just all a bit complicated for my brain


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dawnoftheh3ro*
> 
> Need some help with a few questions regarding OC the monitor!
> 
> I'm using the Qnix 2710 matte monitor and until recently have only been using it with a single GTX 780. I just installed another 780 though 2 days ago. Up until then I wasn't using the full patch, and even with the new SLI setup I still don't think I need to use the full patch if I'm not going over the 400mhz pixel clock limit, AND Toasty also mentioned Titan and 780 users wouldn't need the full patch for SLI. Is that true? So far I've only been able to get my Qnix to 93 hz, anything higher than that some weird faint discoloration appears on the screen (its like a vertical band but very patchy).
> 
> #1. 93hz is around 374mhz on the pixel clock which is still below 400, so should i just stick with the partial patch or go with the full?
> 
> #2. What's the difference in the CRU app provided here, from the one provided by windows? (right click desktop, screen resolution, advanced settings, create custom resolution)
> 
> #3. For awhile I couldn't get the refresh rate created in CRU to show up in my control panel resolutions, presumably due to GeForce Experience being installed. Instead of uninstalling GeForce Exp or importing that blank.dat file he mentioned, I found a tool in EVGA Precision X that lets you create a custom refresh rate by adjusting the Pixel Clock via a slider. I just raised it to 93 hz and applied the setting and voila! It shows up in nvidia control panel and the windows resolution menu, as well as in game. The refresh rate tester website he provided also verified the screen was running at 93 hz. Has anyone else used this instead of the CRU? Is it legit?
> 
> #4. Is there anything I can do to get it higher than 93 hz without that weird discoloration? I was just wondering if I did use the CRU app and maybe adjusted the values in there (which I have no idea at all what they mean, e.g. front porch, back porch, blanking, etc) if it would allow a successful higher refresh rate. And if I do use the CRU app do I need to match the pixel clock value in there with the pixel clock slider bar in Precision X? Will one override the other?
> 
> Thanks for any help. Its just all a bit complicated for my brain


1) Since you are now SLI (780's) I'd go with the Full Patch ... that's the reason we go SLI is for higher frame rates to hopefully match higher refresh rates like 96-120Hz ... right









2) None, CRU is not needed for Nvidia setups, all custom refresh rates are done through the NVCP! KIS(S)








Note: You can use the windows display app to double check your settings are being applied.

3) Don't use CRU or Evga's programs for custom refresh rates, it's simpler and more accurate through NVCP.
Note: I tried Precision X for awhile but the settings were always a bit "off" from what Windows/NVCP were reporting









4) For more info check out my posts *[HERE]* and my referrals to Toasty's comments on weather the Full Patch is needed for SLI780GTX's *[HERE]* bottom/end of my post. No one I know of yet has confirmed Nvidia SLI works without the Full Patch for higher OC's?

Also realize most people will need to tighten their timings for 110Hz+ , but see how far you can get with stock timing's 1st, so you don't get the annoying effect of your gpu ram not properly downclocking @ the desktop with "most" tightened timings!
To get to 120Hz you may have to tighten them a bit as in the example below ...










TY Lawson

Or check out Lawson's new timing's *[HERE]* for a 110Hz WITH proper gpu ram downclocking @ desktop









Check back let us know how it worked out


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I was wondering when you might revert to 110Hz 24/7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I have done the same, it's the best of both worlds, Desktop work apps --> gaming. I can't tell the difference between 110Hz and 120Hz and it seems only prudent for longevity keeping the pixel clock within spec! Especially after reading the only failures guys are having months down the road are from running flat out @120hz with or without tightened timings. I like my monitor to much and until someone convinces me it's OK to run a 483 pixel clock @120Hz even with my gpu ram properly downclocking ... or until I get some new Maxwells to push 120fps all the time ... I'll pass for now


Hey tomcat yep i just leave it set at 110hz 24/7 now due to the fact i can downclock the ram using my 110hz timings and that i cant tell the difference between 110hz and 120hz....Once you get up that high its very hard to tell any difference at all!... And my gaming is just as fluid at 110hz as it is at 120hz....I still have my 120hz preset which is running only a pixel clock of 459mhz and i do not believe this would stress the display controller chip at all to leave at this 24/7...However the inability to down clock the ram with these timings and the fact i cant tell the difference between 110hz and 120hz and the fact that i have the pixel clock running at a near perfect 453mhz with those 110hz timings is the decision maker and therefore i see not point in 120hz!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Lawson.. thank you so much for the 110Hz settings. I used them and my SLI setup properly downclocks great.
> 
> Thank you again.
> 
> cheers.


No problem at all and glad that i helped you mate!....Enjoy your monitor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> thank you so much for your response lawson! this works perfectly. will it be safe to run this setting 24/7? and will it affect any sort of image quality?


No problem at all mate!...And again enjoy your new monitor









Oh and BTW yes you will be totally fine running 110hz with those timings 24/7 !...With a pixel clock of 453mhz i see no problem at all!....And yes as for the image quality the gamma will shift higher at 110hz meaning your screen will appear darker!...However i am using my 120hz ICC profile which looks fine at 110hz!.. It will also totally correct the higher gamma shift seen at this higher refresh rate!....I calibrated that ICC profile at a brightness of 200cd/m which is about 17-18 clicks up on BRI+ button from a black screen...I have put a link to it below









Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## blitzed604

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=4813132&postcount=104
> 
> Also, there is a README.docx file that I provide with every single build of Color Sustainer. Did you read it?
> 
> *From the readme:*
> They are below each other.
> The whole point of the application is that it automatically switches color profiles as you switch refresh rates.






Thanks i must have missed that read me file but the link you gave got me sorted out i appreciate it.

The only other questions i have left is
1.)am i using the right color profile its labelled "Native dispcal 120hz 200cdm.icm" i believe from "lawson", people on the forums have mentioned a certain number of brightness clicks but i couldnt find how many times to hit the brightness+ button from an absolute dim to get the best quality.

2.) do i need a driver for my monitor if i have a r9 290x or is that only needed for nvidia and im mostly going to be playing battlefield 4 do i still need the color profile set and CCC set to 120hz? or do i need to just select 2560x1440 120hz in video settings of the game and not change between 60 and 120hz in CCC.

3.)Do these screen shots look correct?


http://imgur.com/yMvyD5R

 http://i.imgur.com/0ujmbwt.jpg

4.)If i want to run my monitor at 110hz what numbers and settings do i need to change in CRU? is it the same as others have posted even though they are using nvidia and the nvidia software? With those settings what is the best color profile to use?

Thanks for all your help and i will definitely donate once i get some money transferred in my paypal


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> 
> Thanks i must have missed that read me file but the link you gave got me sorted out i appreciate it.
> 
> The only other questions i have left is
> 1.)am i using the right color profile its labelled "Native dispcal 120hz 200cdm.icm" i believe from "lawson", people on the forums have mentioned a certain number of brightness clicks but i couldnt find how many times to hit the brightness+ button from an absolute dim to get the best quality.
> 
> 2.) do i need a driver for my monitor if i have a r9 290x or is that only needed for nvidia and im mostly going to be playing battlefield 4 do i still need the color profile set and CCC set to 120hz? or do i need to just select 2560x1440 120hz in video settings of the game and not change between 60 and 120hz in CCC.
> 
> 3.)Do these screen shots look correct?
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/yMvyD5R
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/0ujmbwt.jpg
> 
> 4.)If i want to run my monitor at 110hz what numbers and settings do i need to change in CRU? is it the same as others have posted even though they are using nvidia and the nvidia software? With those settings what is the best color profile to use?
> 
> Thanks for all your help and i will definitely donate once i get some money transferred in my paypal


1.)am i using the right color profile its labelled "Native dispcal 120hz 200cdm.icm" i believe from "lawson", people on the forums have mentioned a certain number of brightness clicks but i couldnt find how many times to hit the brightness+ button from an absolute dim to get the best quality

*Answer =* I calibrated that ICC profile at a brightness of 200cd/m which is about 17-18 clicks up on BRI+ button from a black screen

2.) do i need a driver for my monitor if i have a r9 290x or is that only needed for nvidia and im mostly going to be playing battlefield 4 do i still need the color profile set and CCC set to 120hz? or do i need to just select 2560x1440 120hz in video settings of the game and not change between 60 and 120hz in CCC.

*Answer =* You do not need a monitor driver when using CRU with AMD cards!...The color profile will automaticly change with the refresh rate as yasamoka has already explained!... I do not need to set 120hz in CCC before i play my games that support 120hz and that i have set the refresh rate of 120hz in the games graphic options!...With Vsync on i am still hitting 120fps even when 110hz was set on the desktop....So no you do not need to set your 120hz profile in CCC before you play the game!...The game sees that your monitor is capable of 120hz *As long as you have made a valid 120hz profile in CRU* and you have preset a 120hz refresh rate in the games graphic options then It would appear to seamlessly auto switch your monitor to that refresh rate!...At least in my case it does with all my game that support 120hz such as BF4...Tomb raider 4....World of tanks.....And once i close the game and i am back on the desktop it has auto reset 110hz

3.)Do these screen shots look correct?


http://imgur.com/yMvyD5R

 http://i.imgur.com/0ujmbwt.jpg

*Answer =* Yes

4.)If i want to run my monitor at 110hz what numbers and settings do i need to change in CRU? is it the same as others have posted even though they are using nvidia and the nvidia software? With those settings what is the best color profile to use?

*Answer =* Yes those timings should work for AMD cards as well as Nvidia cards if there monitors can indeed hit 110hz!...Use the Values in my screen shot below for my 110hz timings which will allow your ram to down clock on the desktop...You can run 110hz 24/7 using these timings....I am using my 120hz ICC profile for my 110hz custom resolution and i am happy with it!....Also it is the same one you are already using!


----------



## dude0014

Lawson, I want to try those timings, cause my GPU is having the same downclocking issues. But, I cant see the numbers. Could you post them or take a clearer "windows snip" picture?


----------



## stephenwileyrn

Is there a quick, simple and easy way to overclock? I'm just wanting to go to 110hz. I'm see'ing all these people talk about all these different programs and testing this and testing that and color profiles etc. and it's got me a bit worried. I'm not the best with computers and was hoping there is a way to quickly get the over clock done via installing a program or two and typing in a few settings.....

any advice?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Less than one week until I order my Qnix

This is me


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenwileyrn*
> 
> Is there a quick, simple and easy way to overclock? I'm just wanting to go to 110hz. I'm see'ing all these people talk about all these different programs and testing this and testing that and color profiles etc. and it's got me a bit worried. I'm not the best with computers and was hoping there is a way to quickly get the over clock done via installing a program or two and typing in a few settings.....
> 
> any advice?


Nvidia or AMD? It's really easy if you have Nvidia because their control panel supports overclocking natively. AMD takes an extra step or two.


----------



## stephenwileyrn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Nvidia or AMD? It's really easy if you have Nvidia because their control panel supports overclocking natively. AMD takes an extra step or two.


I have Gigabyte Radeon R9 290, so AMD


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenwileyrn*
> 
> I have Gigabyte Radeon R9 290, so AMD


It's not too bad - you need to run a patch file, then you need to setup the overclock with the Custom Refresh Utility, then you can select it in CCC. 110 MHz can take some fiddling (depending on the individual monitor), if you are happy at 96 Hz it's pretty much three clicks to get it working.


----------



## stephenwileyrn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> It's not too bad - you need to run a patch file, then you need to setup the overclock with the Custom Refresh Utility, then you can select it in CCC. 110 MHz can take some fiddling (depending on the individual monitor), if you are happy at 96 Hz it's pretty much three clicks to get it working.[/quote
> 
> 96 would probably be fine. My FPS rarely reaches 110 or 120 anyway, and at 1440p it's going to be even more difficult. So wouldn't 96 be just fine for me since I don't plan on having 120+ FPS? Or is there still a difference regardless of my FPS....?
> 
> Sorry for so many questions. I know they've been answered at some point in this thread, but there's no way I can sift through 1800+ pages. It would be a great idea if this club actually got its own forum where we could have individual topics discussing the various subjects like overclocking, purchasing, trouble shooting, mounting, etc.


----------



## Yuri_RP

Hello,

I'm testing my QNIX using R9 295X2. Currently using Dual Link DVI-D connection because my Active Adapter haven't arrived yet.

In 120Hz it shows green lines all over the screen.
In 110Hz UFO test without background is fine, but with the star background it has green lines at the bakcground
In 96Hz all is fine.

Does this mean that my Monitor only capable of 96Hz?
Has anyone tested the monitor with R9 295X2?
Does this have something to do with the connection used? (DL DVI-D opposed to Mini DP)
Or maybe this has something to do with the drivers, or anything else?

I need you help on this matter.

Thanks.

Regards,

Yuri


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenwileyrn*
> 
> 96 would probably be fine. My FPS rarely reaches 110 or 120 anyway, and at 1440p it's going to be even more difficult. So wouldn't 96 be just fine for me since I don't plan on having 120+ FPS? Or is there still a difference regardless of my FPS....?
> 
> Sorry for so many questions. I know they've been answered at some point in this thread, but there's no way I can sift through 1800+ pages. It would be a great idea if this club actually got its own forum where we could have individual topics discussing the various subjects like overclocking, purchasing, trouble shooting, mounting, etc.


Yes, I think 96 Hz is probably plenty - you are a correct that it takes a lot of GPU power to push 120 FPS at 1440p. For me, 96Hz is so much better than 60 Hz I don't even care about 120.


----------



## stephenwileyrn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Yes, I think 96 Hz is probably plenty - you are a correct that it takes a lot of GPU power to push 120 FPS at 1440p. For me, 96Hz is so much better than 60 Hz I don't even care about 120.


Yea, for sure. Also, don't higher refresh rates use more GPU? Wouldn't it be easier for my GPU to reach 96 FPS if the monitor is only set at 96hz?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenwileyrn*
> 
> Yea, for sure. Also, don't higher refresh rates use more GPU? Wouldn't it be easier for my GPU to reach 96 FPS if the monitor is only set at 96hz?


Assuming you are using Vsync, yes. If you have Vsync off then the GPU will just be pushing as many frames as it can all the time.


----------



## FancyRabbitt

Had this happen to me with one of my monitors after a little more than a month.
What do you guys think I should do?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FancyRabbitt*
> 
> 
> 
> Had this happen to me with one of my monitors after a little more than a month.
> What do you guys think I should do?


What else? Return it.


----------



## FancyRabbitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What else? Return it.


Currently working with the seller to try and set up a warrenty replacement. They needed to send them some videos and pictures. Waiting to hear back.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FancyRabbitt*
> 
> 
> 
> Had this happen to me with one of my monitors after a little more than a month.
> What do you guys think I should do?


I've had two that did that, one out of the box and one about 2 weeks later. Both sellers took the return no problem, and paid return shipping.


----------



## norcrawler

so i think i have image burn or gamma shift possibly, mabey someone can tell me what it is. its only noticeable on certain colors. heres a few pics i took of it.
-stock dvi-d cable that came with the qnix
-overclocked to 105(wouldnt do 110, it had green scan lines up top)
-stock timings

can anyone help me id this problem and a possible fix?
better dvi cable? change timings? lower hz?
im not certain but i just started noticing it. i guess it could have been there for awhile. and i am on twitch quite a bit and i noticed the chat window cuts off very close to where the image burn in located. not sure if hat could be it. its not exactly in the same spot but its pretty close(1/4" mabey?). mabey its just a coincidence..

photo1.JPG 3174k .JPG file


photo2.JPG 2773k .JPG file


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> photo1.JPG 3174k .JPG file
> 
> 
> photo2.JPG 2773k .JPG file


Those are some horrible issue, wow.


----------



## norcrawler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Those are some horrible issue, wow.


cant tell if thats sarcasm or not? lol. thanks for the input though


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> cant tell if thats sarcasm or not? lol. thanks for the input though


Haha, wasn't sarcasm, I meant I hope I don't get issues like that. I just felt bad for you.


----------



## blitzed604

Hey guys just a quick questions the power brick that came with the monitor is it any good? someone replied earlier with a replacement with a better name brand but that was only for england and i couldnt find that same part number on canada or us ebay. If the power brick that came with the monitor is pretty decent, then my next question is should i change the wire that came with it to one that has a 3rd prong for ground. The wire i recieved only has two prongs used in korea and then has to plug into a adapter to adapt to the US plug. I have a spare power supply cable that would fit into the power brick and has the proper us/canada prongs on the other end is it safe to use that cable?


----------



## Forceman

Yeah, I'd use the spare US cable rather than fiddle with the adapter. Doesn't matter which one you use.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Lawson, I want to try those timings, cause my GPU is having the same downclocking issues. But, I cant see the numbers. Could you post them or take a clearer "windows snip" picture?


Click on my picture and at the bottom right hand corner of the box that opens up there is a button that says original!... Hit that you will see the full screen picture
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> so i think i have image burn or gamma shift possibly, mabey someone can tell me what it is. its only noticeable on certain colors. heres a few pics i took of it.
> -stock dvi-d cable that came with the qnix
> -overclocked to 105(wouldnt do 110, it had green scan lines up top)
> -stock timings
> 
> can anyone help me id this problem and a possible fix?
> better dvi cable? change timings? lower hz?
> im not certain but i just started noticing it. i guess it could have been there for awhile. and i am on twitch quite a bit and i noticed the chat window cuts off very close to where the image burn in located. not sure if hat could be it. its not exactly in the same spot but its pretty close(1/4" mabey?). mabey its just a coincidence..
> 
> photo1.JPG 3174k .JPG file
> 
> 
> photo2.JPG 2773k .JPG file


The first picture looks like you have cuts/slashes in one of the diffuser layers or some hairs stuck between them!....The second picture looks like another or the same diffuser layer has water or some other kind of fluid stain on it!.... Also it looks like one of the diffuser layers maybe the stained one has shifted or moved inside the panel or is not wide enough to fit the full screen width as it stops abruptly after the stain!...I would contact seller ASAP and ask him for a replacement monitor!....Yours has some bad issues...

Dont worry about the overclocking right now just get hold of the seller ASAP and have this monitor returned!


----------



## lawson67

Ok so i have been doing some testing this afternoon in an attempt to find some timings that will allow AMD card users to downclock there memory on the desktop using a 120hz resolution!...And with some Determined perseverance I have managed to find some timings that will indeed allow AMD card users memory to downclock on the desktop running a 120hz custom resolution with a 120hz capable monitor as in the picture below









By raising the vertical blanking values whilst simultaneously lowering the Horizontal values i managed to achieve memory downclock at 120hz that is stable!...At least it is for me so i am sure that many other AMD card owners who also have a 120hz capable monitors will also be able to use these timings!...

The resulting pixel clock was 487mhz and this should be taken into consideration and weighed up with the benefits of a lower refresh rate at say 110hz where there is not a real noticeable difference at least for me between 120hz and 110hz...And that AMD cards will downclock there memory at 110hz using my optimized 110hz timings with a pixel clock of only 453mhz!...There are however many Nvidia users that run a 483mhz pixel clock for there 120hz custom resolution some 24/7!...However we do not know the long term affects of running a pixel clock so far above its design limit of 450mhz...

In the past i have tested for elevated temperatures from the display controller chip at 60hz and 120hz and not found any sizeable increase in temps from 60hz to 120hz!...I have also tested for any extra power draw that the monitor pulls at 120hz...And the result was just under 6 watts of extra power from 60hz which is ruining a pixel clock of 241mhz (and dont forget this chip is capable of 450mhz) to 120hz which using my tightened timings is running a pixel clock of 459mhz which is only 9mhz over the display controller limit and so therefore i believe this is within tolerable range for that chip!...

However while running theses tightened timings does allow for a stronger signal at 120hz with a pixel clock of only 459mhz being very close to the 450mhz limit it does not allow the cards memory to downclock without corrupting the screen using such low vertical blanking values!...Therefore i have 4gb of DDR5 ram going flat out on the desktop doing nothing which is drawing an extra 60watts of power from the wall to my PC!...And is also adding +10c to the temp on my top GPU in my crossfire configuration which is far from ideal.

The monitors extra power consumption at 120hz has to be coming from the fact that the (EP269 display controller) which was running at 60hz with a pixel clock of 241mhz has to now run a pixel clock of 450mhz or in my case 459mhz for my tightened 120hz timings which it clearly requires just under 6 watts to achieve going from 31.9 watts at 60hz to 38.4 watts at 120hz! ....So this goes to show that the display controller is capable of requesting extra power when it needs to run a higher pixel clock and the extra just under 6 watts that it was drawing at 120hz is very close to its design limits at 459mhz!

Running with the new timings i have found that will enable AMD cards memory to downclock on the desktop at 120hz is as i said 487mhz!...The power draw from the display controller/monitor from the wall running a pixel clock of 487mhz is 38.4watts which is drawing the exact same power that it draws running at its rated 450mhz limit!

These are the facts and below are the AMD 120hz memory downclockable timings if any AMD card owners want to play!

Monitor Power draw running 120hz downclockable AMD card timings with a pixel clock of 487mhz



AMD 120hz memory downclockable timings


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Ok so i have been doing some testing this afternoon in an attempt to find some timings that will allow AMD card users to downclock there memory on the desktop using a 120hz resolution!...And with some Determined perseverance I have managed to find some timings that will indeed allow AMD card users memory to downclock on the desktop running a 120hz custom resolution with a 120hz capable monitor as in the picture below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By raising the vertical blanking values whilst simultaneously lowering the Horizontal values i managed to achieve memory downclock at 120hz that is stable!...At least it is for me so i am sure that many other AMD card owners who also have a 120hz capable monitors will also be able to use these timings!...
> 
> The resulting pixel clock was 487mhz and this should be taken into consideration and weighed up with the benefits of a lower refresh rate at say 110hz where there is not a real noticeable difference at least for me between 120hz and 110hz...And that AMD cards will downclock there memory at 110hz using my optimized 110hz timings with a pixel clock of only 453mhz!...There are however many Nvidia users that run a 483mhz pixel clock for there 120hz custom resolution some 24/7!...However we do not know the long term affects of running a pixel clock so far above its design limit of 450mhz...
> 
> In the past i have tested for elevated temperatures from the display controller chip at 60hz and 120hz and not found any sizeable increase in temps from 60hz to 120hz!...I have also tested for any extra power draw that the monitor pulls at 120hz...And the result was just under 6 watts of extra power from 60hz which is ruining a pixel clock of 241mhz (and dont forget this chip is capable of 450mhz) to 120hz which using my tightened timings is running a pixel clock of 459mhz which is only 9mhz over the display controller limit and so therefore i believe this is within tolerable range for that chip!...
> 
> However while running theses timings does allow for a stronger signal at 120hz with a pixel clock of only 459mhz being very close to the 450mhz limit it does not allow the cards memory to downclock without corrupting the screen using such low vertical blanking values!...Therefore i have 4gb of DDR5 ram going flat out on the desktop doing nothing which is drawing an extra 60watts of power from the wall to my PC!...And is also adding +10c to the temp on my top GPU in my crossfire configuration which is far from ideal.
> 
> The monitors extra power consumption at 120hz has to be coming from the fact that the (EP269 display controller) which was running at 60hz with a pixel clock of 241mhz has to now run a pixel clock of 450mhz or in my case 459mhz for my tightened 120hz timings which it clearly requires just under 6 watts to achieve going from 31.9 watts at 60hz to 38.4 watts at 120hz! ....So this goes to show that the display controller is capable of requesting extra power when it needs to run a higher pixel clock and the extra just under 6 watts that it was drawing at 120hz is very close to its design limits at 459mhz!
> 
> Running with the new timings i have found that will enable AMD cards memory to downclock on the desktop at 120hz is as i said 487mhz!...The power draw from the display controller/monitor from the wall running a pixel clock of 487mhz is 38.4watts which is drawing the exact same power that it draws running its rated 450mhz limit!
> 
> These are the facts and below are the AMD 120hz memory downclockable timings if any AMD card owners want to play!
> 
> Monitor Power draw running 120hz downclockable AMD card timings with a pixel clock of 487mhz
> 
> 
> 
> AMD 120hz memory downclockable timings


Nice Work







+R

As eluded to earlier, I'm still sticking with 110Hz (443 pixel) even though my monitor easily does 120Hz @ 483 pixel clock with proper gpu ram downclocking ... until more info or gpu upgrades come along








I want an electrical engineers opinion on the EP269 controllers ability to handle the extra watts which I think is OK, as isn't there a 10-20% overhead safety margin built into an electrical component rating? And is a mere 8% OC of the pixel clock OK? I want a motherboard engineer/designers opinion


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice Work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +R
> 
> As eluded to earlier, I'm still sticking with 110Hz (443 pixel) even though my monitor easily does 120Hz @ 483 pixel clock with proper gpu ram downclocking ... until more info or gpu upgrades come along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want an electrical engineers opinion on the EP269 controllers ability to handle the extra watts which I think is OK, as isn't there a 10-20% overhead safety margin built into an electrical component rating? And is a mere 8% OC of the pixel clock OK? I want a motherboard engineer/designers opinion


Hey tomcat i will also be sticking to 110hz 24/7 on the desktop for obvious reasons one being a much lower pixel clock!....And for my games that do not support 120hz ...However for my games that do support 120hz which is most of them that i play i have my refresh rate set to 120hz in these games which seamlessly switches my monitors refresh rate to 120hz when i enter those games and then it reset to 110hz when i leave the game and go back to the desktop!...

However i wanted to find some 120hz timings that did allow AMD cards to downclock there memory clock on the desktop and it is another option for some members that may like to try them!...The display controller is not pulling any extra noticeable power than it is at its rated 450mhz!...or it is so small that it is less than my wattage meter can detect running at 487mhz which would lead me to believe that it is safe?....However due to the fact that i cant tell the difference between 120hz and 110hz and the fact that most of my games switch my monitor to 120hz when i play them i do not feel the need to run 120hz 24/7

But at least we now know that it is possible to run an AMD card at 120hz and be able to downclock the memory on desktop and we now know the timings to achieve that!


----------



## wntrsnowg

That is a really nice background Lawson. link?


----------



## Purostaff

What would be the reason(s) for getting corrupted screen? (ie. green line on sides, screen flickers, random vertical lines with different colors, fuzzy outlines on everything, etc..)

Was I not supposed to overclock the GPU if I OC the monitor or is it a certain setting in game that's causing this? I read something about downclocking memory?

I have a single R9 290 underwater with X-Star. The monitor was fine with GPU-OC until I started moitor OC. Anything above certain points would cause the problem.

I've tried 80, 96, 100, 105, 110, 120. They were all stable in 2D application (web surfing, etc), but when I started up a game all hells break loose. 80hz was fine in some games, but not others.

So, I said f-it and reset everything back to 60hz (unpatch the driver, reset-all GRU, uninstall and reinstall GPU driver).

At stock clock, I can play all games with no problem, but when I started to OC my gpu at 60hz, I would get those symptoms (More noticeable in games with intensive max setting). The screen is not frozen, if I get blank screen with random vertical blocks/lines I can see it change colors when I do something. The two other monitors on the sides were still fine (24" BenQ and Asus). If I have the game in windowed mode, I can drag it out from the corrupted X-Star to one of the monitors on the side and the game would look perfectly fine with and without gpu-OC.

I've tried different DVI-D cable and DVI slots, but to no avail. I will test this issue again in more detail once I'm home.

Any inputs would greatly be appreciated.


----------



## george241312

So i bought the X-STAR DP2710 and they messaged me this:
Quote:


> Hi, this is dream-seller
> 
> Thank you very much for purchasing.
> 
> Currently we throw a launching event for customers having bought DP2710 PLS or QX2710 PLS (they are made of same panel). As the event, we would like to suggest UPGRADING your DP2710 PLS or QX2710 PLS to DP2710 Multi True10 for FREE (If you have purchased perfect pixel model we will also send perfect pixel one).
> Please let us know your decision as soon as possible.
> 
> DP2710 PLS Spec
> - Panel : samsung pls
> - Resolution : 2560 * 1440
> - Response Rate : 8ms
> - Input : Dual Link DVI-D
> 
> DP2710 Multi Ture 10 Spec (http://www.ebay.com/itm/331180242313)
> - Panel : AH-VA
> - Resolution : 2560 * 1440
> - Response Rate : 8ms
> - Input : Dual Link DVI-D, HDMI
> - Virtual 4K
> - Eye Protection (Low Blue Light, Flicker-Free)
> - Anti-Glare
> We recommend you DP2710 Multi Ture 10 Spec, it is upgraded version and this is great chance to get good quality of monitor.
> 
> Hope to hear soon!
> Thank you very much.
> 
> Yours sincerely,


What should i do ?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george241312*
> 
> So i bought the X-STAR DP2710 and they messaged me this:
> What should i do ?


That's the exact same message someone got last week when they bought that from Dream Seller.

A few days later he got another e-mail saying things changed and the monitor he originally asked for could be shipped out.

You should be made aware that the multi-input Qnix frameskips when OC'd past 60hz and also suffers from 2 frames of input lag, nor is it a 10bit display.

I'd just wait a bit and see what he says, or tell him that you'll wait for what you ordered.


----------



## george241312

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> multi-input Qnix frameskips when OC'd past 60hz and also suffers from 2 frames of input lag, nor is it a 10bit display.


Thank you for your input i told him i don't want the upgrade.
I want it to overclock..


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george241312*
> 
> Thank you for your input i told him i don't want the upgrade.
> I want it to overclock..


That's great, waiting might make it worse, and it's definitely *not* an upgrade.

I'm expecting a similar message shortly after I order my single-input Qnix this Friday.


----------



## Rakunvar

My QX2710LED's are still going strong, although did just Pre-order the IPS Overlord panel to try out with them







If your debating the Qnix ones, get em


----------



## trumpetspieler

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> so i think i have image burn or gamma shift possibly, mabey someone can tell me what it is. its only noticeable on certain colors. heres a few pics i took of it.
> -stock dvi-d cable that came with the qnix
> -overclocked to 105(wouldnt do 110, it had green scan lines up top)
> -stock timings
> 
> can anyone help me id this problem and a possible fix?
> better dvi cable? change timings? lower hz?
> im not certain but i just started noticing it. i guess it could have been there for awhile. and i am on twitch quite a bit and i noticed the chat window cuts off very close to where the image burn in located. not sure if hat could be it. its not exactly in the same spot but its pretty close(1/4" mabey?). mabey its just a coincidence..
> 
> 
> 
> The first picture looks like you have cuts/slashes in one of the diffuser layers or some hairs stuck between them!....The second picture looks like another or the same diffuser layer has water or some other kind of fluid stain on it!.... Also it looks like one of the diffuser layers maybe the stained one has shifted or moved inside the panel or is not wide enough to fit the full screen width as it stops abruptly after the stain!...I would contact seller ASAP and ask him for a replacement monitor!....Yours has some bad issues...
> 
> Dont worry about the overclocking right now just get hold of the seller ASAP and have this monitor returned!
Click to expand...

I think I have exactly what you have in the second picture, and it definitely gets more noticeable with a higher refresh rate. I really don't think they're water stains, as they are pretty dynamic, and seem to chase the highlights of what ever happens to be inside the two inch vertical bar where it shows up. The distortion immediately stops once outside of that strip (I'm talking a perfect vertical straight line boundary), so I'm pretty sure it is some form of image burn.
I have had varying amounts of luck getting them to go away at higher (> 100) refresh rates, mostly by just fiddling with the timings in CRU. I would like to see if anyone else has had this happen, and if they got anywhere with it.


----------



## stephenwileyrn

Hey guys......my qnix qx2710 just got here.

is there a step-by-step thread with instructions on how to overclock with AMD cards? I'm just wanting to set it to 96hz and GO for now. Maybe later I will come back and dive deep into learning more about the process, but just want a quick and small overclock for now. thanks!


----------



## phygar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> so i think i have image burn or gamma shift possibly, mabey someone can tell me what it is. its only noticeable on certain colors. heres a few pics i took of it.
> -stock dvi-d cable that came with the qnix
> -overclocked to 105(wouldnt do 110, it had green scan lines up top)
> -stock timings
> 
> can anyone help me id this problem and a possible fix?
> better dvi cable? change timings? lower hz?
> im not certain but i just started noticing it. i guess it could have been there for awhile. and i am on twitch quite a bit and i noticed the chat window cuts off very close to where the image burn in located. not sure if hat could be it. its not exactly in the same spot but its pretty close(1/4" mabey?). mabey its just a coincidence..
> 
> photo1.JPG 3174k .JPG file
> 
> 
> photo2.JPG 2773k .JPG file


mine does that too when I OC too high. Turn it down a bit and it will only be noticeable on certain images


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> That is a really nice background Lawson. link?


Hey wntrsnowg i can not remember where i got that wallpaper from?.... But i have put in a zip file for you below









03459_bandonbythesea_2560x1440.zip 2472k .zip file


----------



## Lanlan

I have a question for you all. How do games run? All 1440p benchmarks I see use AA, I don't really find it necessary, so does anyone have a setup similar to mine? Do most games run at 60FPS?

Edit: I mean maxed out minus AA


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> That is a really nice background Lawson. link?
> 
> 
> 
> Hey wntrsnowg i can not remember where i got that wallpaper from?.... But i have put in a zip file for you below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 03459_bandonbythesea_2560x1440.zip 2472k .zip file
Click to expand...

Thank you!


----------



## yasamoka

OP, you're here? We need an OP update urgently!


----------



## the matty

would a 1gb HD5850 twin frozr run this for just content consumption? no gaming till i upgrade my GPU (i don't really game much anymore) just need a new monitor and this looks nice and is very tempting, many thanks in advanced


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lanlan*
> 
> I have a question for you all. How do games run? All 1440p benchmarks I see use AA, I don't really find it necessary, so does anyone have a setup similar to mine? Do most games run at 60FPS?
> 
> Edit: I mean maxed out minus AA


Depending on card and type of AA you can expect a 5-20 FPS boost in games without it, but again, depends on card, and AA type.


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the matty*
> 
> would a 1gb HD5850 twin frozr run this for just content consumption? no gaming till i upgrade my GPU (i don't really game much anymore) just need a new monitor and this looks nice and is very tempting, many thanks in advanced


You will be 100% fine. According to my research:

Max Resolution Analog: 2048 x 1536
Max Resolution Digital: 2560 x 1600

So you are fine if you run digital (hdmi, displayport, dvi)

As far as overclocking you will need to do the AMD trick, but it will work.

Good luck!


----------



## the matty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> You will be 100% fine. According to my research:
> 
> Max Resolution Analog: 2048 x 1536
> Max Resolution Digital: 2560 x 1600
> 
> So you are fine if you run digital (hdmi, displayport, dvi)
> 
> As far as overclocking you will need to do the AMD trick, but it will work.
> 
> Good luck!


thanks







ill likely not look into overclocking it till i upgrade GPU but ill be looking at the green team for that i hope, chances are ill end up with the single input one so it'll likely be DVI but that isn't a problem really


----------



## bonzaixx1

I picked a bad time to look into buying one of these, huh? I found these two sellers that I think are selling the correct version:
green-sum: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
accessorieswhole: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25
And a pixel perfect version of the one from green-sum (at least I think, what does Evolution II 2 even mean?):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11

So I guess my questions are:
1) Those are the safe versions that can overclock, right?
2) Would a single 780 Ti be enough to get good results with these? I've also been considering playing it safe and getting an ASUS VG248QE just to get a high refresh rate for cheaper, but the resolution of these is a sexy bonus.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> OP, you're here? We need an OP update urgently!


With what information? I have been MIA trying to finish up my degree. Just let me know what needs changing, and how specifically please.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonzaixx1*
> 
> I picked a bad time to look into buying one of these, huh? I found these two sellers that I think are selling the correct version:
> green-sum: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> accessorieswhole: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25
> And a pixel perfect version of the one from green-sum (at least I think, what does Evolution II 2 even mean?):
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11
> 
> So I guess my questions are:
> 1) Those are the safe versions that can overclock, right?
> 2) Would a single 780 Ti be enough to get good results with these? I've also been considering playing it safe and getting an ASUS VG248QE just to get a high refresh rate for cheaper, but the resolution of these is a sexy bonus.


1. The links you provided aren't either of the multi-input Qnix's, so they have a chance to OC without frameskipping.

2. A single 780 Ti should be sufficient, although OCN has no idea what you're currently using.

3. Evolution II is just some model name they created, and the third link is more expensive since it's a Perfect Pixel version.

I'm buying mine Friday (possibly a day or 2 early), and I'm most likely going with this listing

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc

I'm still contemplating getting another display which would be a 27" IPS/PLS 1080p display for CS:GO so it's easier to see people, this is in addition to the Qnix.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc


I bought from dream-seller. I arrived quickly and I'm very happy with it. The pixels look perfect to me, although I don't have perfect vision.

Color-wise it looks as good as my other 27" 1080p Samsung monitor. Can't complain there









I was watching TimeScapes 1440p video and it was very impressive.

My only regret (concerning the monitor) selecting the tempered glass because of the glare.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321226150944


----------



## Kenjiwing

Can get 112hz no issues at 120hz I get sporadic/random green lines







Any idea how to fix it or am I just sol?


----------



## McLaren_F1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> With what information? I have been MIA trying to finish up my degree. Just let me know what needs changing, and how specifically please.


Update the OC guide, Add the QNIX driver link, add Lawson's ICC profile, add Lawsons 120Hz timings just to name some that need to be added/edited
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Can get 112hz no issues at 120hz I get sporadic/random green lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea how to fix it or am I just sol?


Have you tried lawson's 120 timings?


----------



## blitzed604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lanlan*
> 
> I have a question for you all. How do games run? All 1440p benchmarks I see use AA, I don't really find it necessary, so does anyone have a setup similar to mine? Do most games run at 60FPS?
> 
> Edit: I mean maxed out minus AA


Im running a r9 290x with a i7 4770k heres what i get when i play TItanfall and Battlefield 4 on a X-Star that can hit 120hz
I hit 120fps in titanfall on ultra/max setting nothing is turned down and it shows a constant 120fps

BF4-i hit 110fps using console command "Gametime.maxvariable 110" with no AA on but FXAA on medium and everything else on ultra except for terrain quality which is high instead of ultra. No frames drop
and you get a consistent 110fps. You can check your frames by typing ~ to open the console then typing perfoverlay.drawfps 1.

Those are the only 2 games i play at the moment im still new to gaming


----------



## Kenjiwing

Fyi to the note on the OP.. you must patch even with a single titan. Nothing worked for me until I patched using CRU.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McLaren_F1*
> 
> Update the OC guide, Add the QNIX driver link, add Lawson's ICC profile, add Lawsons 120Hz timings just to name some that need to be added/edited
> Have you tried lawson's 120 timings?


I will try this tonight. Its weird bc it runs for 10 mins with no green lines and then its random in the green lines. I will try the lawson post tonight when I get home.


----------



## HuwSharpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trumpetspieler*
> 
> The distortion immediately stops once outside of that strip (I'm talking a perfect vertical straight line boundary), so I'm pretty sure it is some form of image burn.
> I have had varying amounts of luck getting them to go away at higher (> 100) refresh rates, mostly by just fiddling with the timings in CRU. I would like to see if anyone else has had this happen, and if they got anywhere with it.


I have the exact same issue when over 100Hz, though fine at 96Hz, as far as i can see.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> Im running a r9 290x with a i7 4770k heres what i get when i play TItanfall and Battlefield 4 on a X-Star that can hit 120hz
> I hit 120fps in titanfall on ultra/max setting nothing is turned down and it shows a constant 120fps
> 
> BF4-i hit 110fps using console command "Gametime.maxvariable 110" with no AA on but FXAA on medium and everything else on ultra except for terrain quality which is high instead of ultra. No frames drop
> and you get a consistent 110fps. You can check your frames by typing ~ to open the console then typing perfoverlay.drawfps 1.
> 
> Those are the only 2 games i play at the moment im still new to gaming


please play on a 64 man server, usePerfOverlay.FrameFileLogEnable 1

then put the log file in to these:
http://www.webwalkers.cz/Windows/FLAcalculator/FLAcalculator.aspx
and this
http://www.bytemedev.com/bf4-fta/

post the results- dont cheese out by running on test island either.

Be interested to see the results.


----------



## phygar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I bought from dream-seller. I arrived quickly and I'm very happy with it. The pixels look perfect to me, although I don't have perfect vision.
> 
> Color-wise it looks as good as my other 27" 1080p Samsung monitor. Can't complain there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was watching TimeScapes 1440p video and it was very impressive.
> 
> My only regret (concerning the monitor) selecting the tempered glass because of the glare.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321226150944


You should be able to remove the glass somehow since it's just a matte screen behind it.


----------



## Rmerwede

Hi All,

Got my QX2710 set up yesterday, and so far so good. Great picture, no pixel issues that I can see, and no noticeable bleed.

I have a question about the US adapter. It looks very cheap and shady, with no ground. Is there a way to ground the foreign plug? It only has the two prongs, but is also has a third area that is flat and looks like it may a method of grounding. If anyone has successfully grounded these, or has a better adapter, your input is much appreciated!

Thanks:cheers: in advance!


----------



## Ramzinho

Well i'm considering buying one of these. but i've some terribly noob questions. How would a 7970GHZ perform on this.. games like assassin's creed and Battlefield 4 and FPS Games

If i need to overclock is there huge difference between 120Mhz and for example 100Mhz? visually

Finally if i decided to buy these but there is no ebay in egypt. where can i purchase it. cause i can't seem to find it anywhere but on ebay.

thanks


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Well i'm considering buying one of these. but i've some terribly noob questions. How would a 7970GHZ perform on this.. games like assassin's creed and Battlefield 4 and FPS Games
> 
> If i need to overclock is there huge difference between 120Mhz and for example 100Mhz? visually
> 
> Finally if i decided to buy these but there is no ebay in egypt. where can i purchase it. cause i can't seem to find it anywhere but on ebay.
> 
> thanks


Amazon?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Amazon?


Or eBay. These sellers are all based in Korea so there are no local sellers for almost everyone we know ordering these.

They ship to Lebanon. They should ship to Egypt for sure.


----------



## Rmerwede

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rmerwede*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Got my QX2710 set up yesterday, and so far so good. Great picture, no pixel issues that I can see, and no noticeable bleed.
> 
> I have a question about the US adapter. It looks very cheap and shady, with no ground. Is there a way to ground the foreign plug? It only has the two prongs, but is also has a third area that is flat and looks like it may a method of grounding. If anyone has successfully grounded these, or has a better adapter, your input is much appreciated!
> 
> Thanks:cheers: in advance!


Better yet, can you just connect a regular power cord to the block?


----------



## stephenwileyrn

Holy mother this thing is BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!!

I recently purchased an Acer G Series 24" monitor (TN panel) after using a 20" Dell from an old desktop for what seemed like a decade or more. I thought wow what an upgrade....but going to this monitor and 1440p is just.....I can't describe it. I was very hesitant to purchase this monitor because I basically bought a new computer over the past few months (you can see my specs below in my signature) and was very apprehensive to spend the money. $299 is cheap for a monitor, but it's a decent chunk of change regardless, plus I was worried about all these scary things like dead pixels and back light bleed.

I ordered a tempered glass qx2710, not pixel perfect. But to my eyes, this thing is PERFECT. It might have dead pixels, but I sure as hell don't see them. And it might have BLB but I sure as hell don't see that when loading a pure black picture. (Or am I supposed to use a camera to check?)

Either way, it's BEAUTIFUL and easily the best $299 I've ever spent on an electronic!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Thank you!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> OP, you're here? We need an OP update urgently!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> With what information? I have been MIA trying to finish up my degree. Just let me know what needs changing, and how specifically please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

1st off let me say thank you for starting this thread







... BUT you have a lot of catching up to do, especially regarding Nvidia based systems. Perfect example is Kenjiwing below ... CRU isn't even needed for Nvidia systems and sometimes causes more problems than it solves ... Start by having a look at the links below ...

1) http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/17880#post_22167312

2) http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/18040#post_22192050

3) ToastyX ... http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/16380#post_21987247

4) Color Sustainer by Yasamoka ... http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/18150#post_22215657

5) AMD specialist and actually present time "Guru" of the thread ... Lawson67 ... I'll let him make his contributions OR I recommend you do a user search for Lawson67 and read all his MAJOR contributions over the past few months









Please help us out as it gets frustrating correcting the OP for problems like below ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Can get 112hz no issues at 120hz I get sporadic/random green lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea how to fix it or am I just sol?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Fyi to the note on the OP.. you must patch even with a single titan. Nothing worked for me until I patched using CRU.
Click to expand...

I'd recommend you read the links above and "Simplify" things, you don't need CRU at all








Back to basics is what we all do when OC's go Awry








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rmerwede*
> 
> Better yet, can you just connect a regular power cord to the block?


ABSOLUTELY ... exactly what I did using a power cord from an old Corsair PSU I had lying around


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Amazon?


we don't have any. also why u no answer my other questions







how will the 7970 do on it


----------



## themyst

Hi guys, just got my monitor today from accessorieswhole on eBay (Matte Evolution II SE, non-pixel perfect). Oddly, the box said Qnix, but the actual monitor says X-star. Oh well whatever I don't care.

NO (!) backlight bleeding, no dead pixels, no panel shifting, colors looked fantastic right out of the box. And believe me I spent a ton of time looking for those dead pixels!

Few questions/issues regarding overclocking:

1. I am getting frame skipping at 96hz according to the UFO tester; do you think the quality of this DVI-D cable has anything to do with it? I am using the cable that came in the box, and am looking to get monoprice cables to replace it.

2. It appears that my memory clock is locked at the maximum rate (R9 290) when I overclock the monitor refresh rate to 96hz. When I drop it down to 60hz no problems. Is there a workaround for this?


----------



## Rmerwede

Hi All!

So I referenced the OC guide in the 1st post and I seem to get 110hz. It seems good with no skipped frames using the UFO test. I do have a couple of issues that are probably noob related:

BF3 recognized my first OC of 96hz in video options. I tried 110 and 120, and BF3 would only recognize 59.xxx. I tried getting it back to 96hz and now BF3 only recognizes 59.xxx. I tried manually changing it in the profile file but it does not work. Any other way I can get the game to recognize the refresh rate?

Also, after fidgeting with BF3, I tried the ufo test again and it was skipping frames and had a fluctuating refresh rate. After a restart it went back to 110hz. Could it just be the browser, or is the OC unstable?

Any feedback is appreciated, thanks in advance!


----------



## blitzed604

I noticed that if i remove the front part of the metal casing i get no backlight bleeding, would it be safe if i left the front part of the metal casing out and just had the side rails screwed in to hold it into the plastic casing. I wonder how you guys bend the metal casing because i tried and i still get backlight bleeding.


----------



## themyst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djdynamite123*
> 
> I have an MSI R9 290 Gaming and the desktop must be at 60hz otherwise anything other than that then the memory doesn't down-clock, just the core during idle. Why do you need to be at over 60Hz at the desktop? makes no sense to me.


I got a similar issue with an R9 290, I guess there is no fix for this? I have the issue even at 96hz.


----------



## the9quad

Lawson posted timings that allow the ram to down clock use searxh


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themyst*
> 
> I got a similar issue with an R9 290, I guess there is no fix for this? I have the issue even at 96hz.


If you use the standard LCD timings setting at 96Hz, it should downclock just fine.


----------



## themyst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Lawson posted timings that allow the ram to down clock use searxh


Are you referring to this post?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/18150#post_22215538

It doesn't allow the GPU to downclock itself on my R9 290. Do you guys think it may be the DVI-D cable? I'll go buy that thick one from Monoprice if needed. Using the one that came in the box.

edit - never mind, found it. The below post should be a sticky for AMD users. Mods?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club-read-1st-post/18540#post_22283216

double edit - close but no cigar. it downclocks but there is a weird dark bar on top that refreshes extremely slowly. Not sure if anyone else ran into this?


----------



## themyst

Tweaked his settings in that last post, got something that works (for me at 96/100hz). Confirmed memory clock swings between full load (1250) and idle (150 MHz). Idling at 150 as I type this.

Validated with testufo.com with no dropped frames.



Let me know if this helps anyone.


----------



## steven88

What's everybody's input on Square Trade warranty? The price doesn't seem too bad for a 3 year warranty....Plus they cover shipping both ways

Also, has anybody actually used Square Trade on their Korean monitor? Do they actually try and fix it? Or do they simply just refund you the purchase amount? If I had to guess, it would be the latter, since it's a Korean monitor...and probably difficult to source parts here in the US.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> What's everybody's input on Square Trade warranty? The price doesn't seem too bad for a 3 year warranty....Plus they cover shipping both ways
> 
> Also, has anybody actually used Square Trade on their Korean monitor? Do they actually try and fix it? Or do they simply just refund you the purchase amount? If I had to guess, it would be the latter, since it's a Korean monitor...and probably difficult to source parts here in the US.


Yes get it, search square trade for your answer. In a few words if it's broke they pay shipping try and fix -if not fixable fast they refund your purchase price. More than likely get a refund.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Yes get it, search square trade for your answer. In a few words if it's broke they pay shipping try and fix -if not fixable fast they refund your purchase price. More than likely get a refund.


It sucks that they charge you the warranty cost based off the Buy It Now price instead of the actual price you paid though - I best offered to a lower-cost Square Trade tier, but they still want me to pay for the higher price level based on the listed price.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Just ordered one !

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc

Now I sit and wait.

/cue the Jeopardy music.


----------



## theback

Hello to all, I'm a new user from Italy, but I saw this forum threads for years everytime I had doubt that I wasn't able to find in our language forums








I recently (6months ago) bought a new high-end system , based on i5 4670k and a reference 290 (cooled with acx4 and @1250/1500 mhz), so 1080p became so boring and I decided to upgrade my monitor, in the while I red the most of your posts about this nice panels and your feedback on the sellers.
I bought so a 1440p x-star dp2710 (not perfect pixel) with only dvi from dream-seller , but it arrived last week with a large stuck pixel area ( a big yellow dot of about 100pixels in the bottom) , the seller was so generous to replace it with a perfect pixel *dp2710* , but its multi (but only dvi-hdmi 1.4).
Now it stars my doubts : I saw it is an ah-va panel instead of samsung pls, does is it a cool monitor too? I red that the older displayport-hdmi-dvi cant be overclocked (without frame-skipping), could this one do it?
Thanks and sorry for my bad english, I'm tryng to make it better


----------



## themyst

Guys, accessorieswhole is selling the SE matte model for $289 shipped to the US right now. This is the lowest price I've seen recently. If you're in the market, go here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491


----------



## themyst

I'd ask him for another DVI-only 2710 model.


----------



## hambone96

Just ordered an X-Star, can't wait!

How would y'all compare this 27" 1440p to my current 21.5" 1080p eyefinity?


----------



## theback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Just ordered an X-Star, can't wait!
> 
> How would y'all compare this 27" 1440p to my current 21.5" 1080p eyefinity?


I jumped from a 21.5 hp ips to the x-star (altought it was defective) and its not a so huge difference like from a 27 or 24", but its still noticiable


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theback*
> 
> Hello to all, I'm a new user from Italy, but I saw this forum threads for years everytime I had doubt that I wasn't able to find in our language forums
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently (6months ago) bought a new high-end system , based on i5 4670k and a reference 290 (cooled with acx4 and @1250/1500 mhz), so 1080p became so boring and I decided to upgrade my monitor, in the while I red the most of your posts about this nice panels and your feedback on the sellers.
> I bought so a 1440p x-star dp2710 (not perfect pixel) with only dvi from dream-seller , but it arrived last week with a large stuck pixel area ( a big yellow dot of about 100pixels in the bottom) , the seller was so generous to replace it with a perfect pixel *dp2710* , but its multi (but only dvi-hdmi 1.4).
> Now it stars my doubts : I saw it is an ah-va panel instead of samsung pls, does is it a cool monitor too? I red that the older displayport-hdmi-dvi cant be overclocked (without frame-skipping), could this one do it?
> Thanks and sorry for my bad english, I'm tryng to make it better


I wouldn't get a multi input model if you want to overclock. Also, the input lag will be much higher.


----------



## theback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> I wouldn't get a multi input model if you want to overclock. Also, the input lag will be much higher.


I know it, I was only asking , because the sellers says "overclock up to 120hz" (I think its only to sell more multi models) if its possible also a small overclock (like 90hz), and I've red of the input lags and bad overclocks only on the version with dp and pls panel, so I'm in doubt of that ah-va and hdmi version.
I'm not an hardcore gamer (only play sometimes bf4, ac4, nfs.... in short words the cross-platform aaa games) , but it will be also good to have a smoother experience if possible
Thanks for you reply


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theback*
> 
> I know it, I was only asking , because the sellers says "overclock up to 120hz" (I think its only to sell more multi models) if its possible also a small overclock (like 90hz), and I've red of the input lags and bad overclocks only on the version with dp and pls panel, so I'm in doubt of that ah-va and hdmi version.
> I'm not an hardcore gamer (only play sometimes bf4, ac4, nfs.... in short words the cross-platform aaa games) , but it will be also good to have a smoother experience if possible
> Thanks for you reply


I was mislead in to buying a Qnix true10 Model, but I got my money back because I claimed false advertising (it claimed to run at 75hz default, but it only ran at 60). The advert also claimed that it was "overclockable to 120hz." - which is just a lie.

When it did arrive I was very happy with the picture quality, but obviously very annoyed that it didn't even run at the advertised 75hz.

The input lag was REALLY bad as well. I mean, it was very noticeable and completely ruined any games where you need quick reactions.


----------



## theback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> I was mislead in to buying a Qnix true10 Model, but I got my money back because I claimed false advertising (it claimed to run at 75hz default, but it only ran at 60). The advert also claimed that it was "overclockable to 120hz." - which is just a lie.
> 
> When it did arrive I was very happy with the picture quality, but obviously very annoyed that it didn't even run at the advertised 75hz.
> 
> The input lag was REALLY bad as well. I mean, it was very noticeable and completely ruined any games where you need quick reactions.


So do you have an ah-va model too? wiht how much connection ports?


----------



## hambone96

Oh god, I ordered the good one right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560-x-1440-27-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theback*
> 
> So do you have an ah-va model too? wiht how much connection ports?


nah, I have a Qnix 2710 now. Single input. Great picture, no dead pixels, 120hz









Only problem is a bit of pixel sparkle on black backgrounds, but I can only see that when I am very close to the monitor.

Remember, these are NOT 'A' Grade monitors, there will be something wrong with them!


----------



## theback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> nah, I have a Qnix 2710 now. Single input. Great picture, no dead pixels, 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only problem is a bit of pixel sparkle on black backgrounds, but I can only see that when I am very close to the monitor.
> 
> Remember, these are NOT 'A' Grade monitors, there will be something wrong with them!


I trusted it with the dvi and not perfect pixel version







sure its my bad luck, but I paid about to 83usd only of custom duties
So your last multitrue, was a display port pls or hdmi-dvi ah-va?


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theback*
> 
> I trusted it with the dvi and not perfect pixel version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sure its my bad luck, but I paid about to 83usd only of custom duties
> So your last multitrue, was a display port pls or hdmi-dvi ah-va?


It was DVI, D-Sub, HDMI & DisplayPort.

It was AH-VA.

Whatever it was, it was unusable to me. I can't play with that level of input lag.


----------



## themyst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Oh god, I ordered the good one right?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560-x-1440-27-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


You're good that's the overclockable model


----------



## hambone96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themyst*
> 
> You're good that's the overclockable model


Got me worked up there for a minute, thanks


----------



## theback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> It was DVI, D-Sub, HDMI & DisplayPort.
> 
> It was AH-VA.
> 
> Whatever it was, it was unusable to me. I can't play with that level of input lag.


Oh, I hope the mine (with only hdmi-dvi) will be better, but maybe it all depends also from the eye, from what monitor was you jumping in the qnix? I have only to compare it with a tv-monitor samsung tn 60hz 27"and an hp 21.5" 60hz ips


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theback*
> 
> Oh, I hope the mine (with only hdmi-dvi) will be better, but maybe it all depends also from the eye, from what monitor was you jumping in the qnix? I have only to compare it with a tv-monitor samsung tn 60hz 27"and an hp 21.5" 60hz ips


I was going from a Benq 1920x1080 21.5". It's a TN panel with a 5ms response time, and minimal input lag (i.e. not noticeable).

i hope your mulit-input model is different to mine, because if it isn't you WILL notice the time between you moving the mouse, and the movement happening on screen. And it will annoy you...


----------



## Koehler

You can't compare an IPS/PLS panel to a TN panel. IPS/PLS panels have superior color accuracy and picture quality.

TN panels are things of the past now.


----------



## 241pizza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> nah, I have a Qnix 2710 now. Single input. Great picture, no dead pixels, 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only problem is a bit of pixel sparkle on black backgrounds, but I can only see that when I am very close to the monitor.
> 
> Remember, these are NOT 'A' Grade monitors, there will be something wrong with them!


I picked one up last week, Not one pixel issue, made custom profiles of 96 and 120hz, works like a charm. Could not be happier.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *241pizza*
> 
> I picked one up last week, Not one pixel issue, made custom profiles of 96 and 120hz, works like a charm. Could not be happier.


That's great









But it still didn't pass as a Grade A monitor. I only noticed this issue with mine after scrutinising it very closely


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> You can't compare an IPS/PLS panel to a TN panel. IPS/PLS panels have superior color accuracy and picture quality.
> 
> TN panels are things of the past now.


Haha, of course you can compare them - you've just done it.

Also, they aren't things of the past. Not yet, anyway. Responsiveness and smoothness is still far superior on TNs.


----------



## seanp2501

was very nervous but purchased from amazon seller "stylebang" no seriously...then i received stand does not seem wobbly or poor but have purchased new stand kinda bummed i have to take panel apart to install but whatevers...

0 dead pixel and slight bleed at bottom middle frankly i could care less but if i have to take apart anyway i guess i need to just fold tape?

evga classy 780ti/corsair vengance 16gb/i74770k/z87 sabre

i was only able to get 110 not sure how people are gaming at 120 screen has issues for me at that config so far have installed driver and asus 27 color profile i don't understand my frames either. I guess I need to look at going sli? or lowering settings? my frame tests go 110 110 valid but i never hit past 50 on the games i like (which are hogs and i am at a higher res) just 1440p blues? sli a must? or am i doing something wrong here. So far i have tried adaptive and vsync in geforce panel but they seem same to be honest i have no issues with the lower frames (i am used to console gaming which ugh btw ps4 won't work after using adaptor 24+1 groan...) just wondering...i keep vsync off in game so they won't interfere i guess i will reverse and go from there. i also saw the post about game specific configs wow that is awesome but too much for mwa...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rmerwede*
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> So I referenced the OC guide in the 1st post and I seem to get 110hz. It seems good with no skipped frames using the UFO test. I do have a couple of issues that are probably noob related:
> 
> BF3 recognized my first OC of 96hz in video options. I tried 110 and 120, and BF3 would only recognize 59.xxx. I tried getting it back to 96hz and now BF3 only recognizes 59.xxx. I tried manually changing it in the profile file but it does not work. Any other way I can get the game to recognize the refresh rate?
> 
> Also, after fidgeting with BF3, I tried the ufo test again and it was skipping frames and had a fluctuating refresh rate. After a restart it went back to 110hz. Could it just be the browser, or is the OC unstable?
> 
> Any feedback is appreciated, thanks in advance!


If your going off the OP it doesn't clearly state a simplier method for Nvidia platforms using just the QNIX monitor driver and the NvCP only ... see *[HERE]*

I'd completely uninstall CRU, then do a "clean install" of your preferred Nvidia drivers (beta?), which will "cleanly" wipe all your old custom resolutions then install the QNIX monitor driver (reboot). Set and test your custom resolutions only in the NvCP. You can double check your CR's in the windows display management to be sure they are all recognized. Then you should be able to go into the BF3 settings and see all your custom resolutions available there, like in the ones circled in the screenie below









QNIX monitor driver ... instructions inside ...

QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file


Your NvCP should look something like this ...



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Oh god, I ordered the good one right?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560-x-1440-27-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e


Your fine







Always look for PLS Panel (not AH-VA) and "Single Input" Dual DVI-D ONLY in the descriptions if you want a monitor that will overclock without "Frame Skipping" and significant input lag ...

QX2710 True10 / AH-VA / multi-input model variation review *[HERE]*



Overfiend is right on









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> You can't compare an IPS/PLS panel to a TN panel. IPS/PLS panels have superior color accuracy and picture quality.
> 
> TN panels are things of the past now.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Haha, of course you can compare them - you've just done it.
> 
> Also, they aren't things of the past. Not yet, anyway. Responsiveness and smoothness is still far superior on TNs.
Click to expand...

Overfiend is right on ... again









In addition to the fast twitch pro-gamers ... Don't even try and convince the 4K guys that TN is Dead?

They love their $600 4K Samsung TN's







... *[HERE]
*


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> If your going off the OP it doesn't clearly state a simplier method for Nvidia platforms using just the QNIX monitor driver and the NvCP only ... see *[HERE]*
> 
> I'd completely uninstall CRU, then do a "clean install" of your preferred Nvidia drivers (beta?), which will "cleanly" wipe all your old custom resolutions then install the QNIX monitor driver (reboot). Set and test your custom resolutions only in the NvCP. You can double check your CR's in the windows display management to be sure they are all recognized. Then you should be able to go into the BF3 settings and see all your custom resolutions available there, like in the ones circled in the screenie below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QNIX monitor driver ... instructions inside ...
> 
> QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file
> 
> 
> Your NvCP should look something like this ...
> 
> 
> Your fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Always look for PLS Panel (not AH-VA) and "Single Input" Dual DVI-D ONLY in the descriptions if you want a monitor that will overclock without "Frame Skipping" and significant input lag ...
> 
> QX2710 True10 / AH-VA / multi-input model variation review *[HERE]*
> 
> 
> 
> Overfiend is right on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overfiend is right on ... again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In addition to the fast twitch pro-gamers ... Don't even try and convince the 4K guys that TN is Dead?
> 
> They love their $600 4K Samsung TN's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... *[HERE]
> *


I had a go on one of those Samsungs the other day - it was great!


----------



## GoEz

Ordered a QNIX on Monday for $299 arrived today and holy crap! It's amazing! I was terrified for a minute because my cable wasn't working but the one included did.

My only gripe is that it tilts about 1/2cm to the right


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rmerwede*
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> So I referenced the OC guide in the 1st post and I seem to get 110hz. It seems good with no skipped frames using the UFO test. I do have a couple of issues that are probably noob related:
> 
> BF3 recognized my first OC of 96hz in video options. I tried 110 and 120, and BF3 would only recognize 59.xxx. I tried getting it back to 96hz and now BF3 only recognizes 59.xxx. I tried manually changing it in the profile file but it does not work. Any other way I can get the game to recognize the refresh rate?
> 
> Also, after fidgeting with BF3, I tried the ufo test again and it was skipping frames and had a fluctuating refresh rate. After a restart it went back to 110hz. Could it just be the browser, or is the OC unstable?
> 
> Any feedback is appreciated, thanks in advance!


*Lawsons overclocking guide and custom timings!*

*Also please read and consider my 120hz important information at the bottom of my Guide before setting any 120hz custom resolution*

There are 2 methods that can be used to overclock your monitor depending on weather your are a Nvidia user or an AMD card user!...For Nvidia users using the NVCP with the Qnix monitor driver is the best way to overclock!

For Amd users you have to overclock using EDID overrides which are created using toastyx Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) Which you can download here

AMD card must use toastyx Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) because the catalyst control center "CCC" does not support the creation of custom resolution like the Nvidia control panel NVCP does!

*Amd card owners overlclocking method*

1: Overclcoking using AMD cards is a simple process firstly you need to download Toastyx AMD/ATI Pixel Clock Patcher which will patch your AMD drivers!....You can down load this from here Once downloaded you need to run it to patch your drivers... Now move to step 2...

2: Once the drivers are patched you can now create your custom resolutions!...Open CRU and uncheck the include extension block in CRU and create your custom resolutions!...Feel free to use use my custom timings from the screen shots below!...

Once you have created your custom resolutions you will need to reboot so that the EDID overrides can been seen by windows...Once back on the desktop go to CCC and expand desktop management and then click on desktop properties and you should now see your new refresh rates listed in the refresh rate drop down box....You are done now and all you need to do next is test!

*Monitor Method For Nvidia Cards!*...Step one of this method assumes that you have used CRU with a Nvida card and that you want to swap over from CRU to the NVCP method!....However you can still use this guide if have not used CRU and you have never overclocked your monitor before with a Nvidia card by Starting at step 2:

IF you are using CRU you need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience as it conflicts with CRU EDID overrides.... The OP needs updating...however follow the instruction below to move from CRU to the monitor driver method

1: Go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 2:

2: Not all Nvidia cards need to be patched so you can just use the monitor driver at first and then make your custom resolutions in the Nvidia control panel "NVCP" then test!...If your custom resolution are not being seen by windows then use the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe and run it and reboot test again!.....*However you must use nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe if you are running SLI and if you are using a 400/500-series GPU*..Both the Nvidia patches can be downloaded from toastyx site here....Now once you are patched reboot again and go to step 3:

3: Download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

Go to Nvidia control panel and make your custom resolutions you can use my 120hz tightened timings below which if you have a 120hz capable monitor should allow you to hit 120hz with a pixel clock of 459mhz which will give you a strong signal!....However your ram will not down-clock using those timings as the vertical blanking values are to low....so if my tightened timings work i would like you to try my 120hz timings that allow your cards memory to downclock on the desktop!....These timings run a higher pixel clock of 487mhz which i have also linked below!...

If you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use any timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution!... Also you can try using my 110hz timings which i am ruining 24/7 now as i can not tell the difference between 120hz and 110hz and using my 110hz timings you are only running a pixel clock of 453mhz which is only 3mhz above the pixelclock limit of 450mhz and these timings allows your card memory clock to downclock on the desktop!....Which to me just seems like the all round perfect solution!

120hz tighten timings



120hz memory down clockable timings



110hz timings



qnix.zip 0k .zip file


Edit:: All the timings Above can be used with both Nvidia and AMD cards and you can use them in both NVCP or CRU!... You do not need to set Back Porch & Blanking in NVCP just use my front porch and sync width Values from my CRU screen shots and NVCP will calculate the Back Porch & Blanking values automatically from the other values of mine that you have just entered.

*Nvidia card owner can also use lower vertical blanking values than any Amd card which means they some maybe able to hit 120hz and 110hz using standard timings without the need to use my memory optimized timings and still achieve memory downclock*....However if you find that you can not hit 120hz with stranded timings then use my tightened 120hz timings which will give you a much stronger signal and a much higher chance of hitting 120hz!...However bear in mind that with these timings your cards memory will not downclock on the desktop so you may want to set 60hz or 96hz or even 110hz while on the desktop and not gaming!

*Important information Using 120hz timings read below!

Please take into consideration that the monitors display controller chip has a pixel clock design limit of 450mhz!...So using my 120hz AMD cards down clock-able timings will run a much higher pixel clock of 487mhz...And using NVCP standard 120hz timings will set a high pixel clock of 483mhz....No one knows the long term affect of running such a high pixel clock which is why i run 110hz 24/7 now as i can not tell the difference between 110hz and 120hz....However when i did run 120hz i used to use my tightened timings which bought my pixel clock down to 459mhz only 9mhz above the limit and i used to set a 96hz refresh rate when i finished gaming and was back on the desktop!.... I personally would advise the tightened timings option if you want to run 120hz!.. And not to use a 120hz custom resolution running a pixelclock of 487mhz or 483mhz !...we have tested that these timings are possible for some and have made them freely available for you all to try!.. but you all now know the facts so if you are going to use them then please use them at your own use at your own discretion!

the below is not part of the guide its a separate issue

Also i have been having a bad time of late with windows not seeing my CRU EDID overrides!.. There is a bug with Windows 8.1 where EDID overrides don't always take effect after rebooting or boot up and they conflict with afterburner amongst other things!... I have tried everything to make them load more reliably and stopped all software loading at boot up like afterburner and so on that are known to conflict with EDID overrides all to no avail....Out of 10 re-boots windows may see my EDID overrides once!...Of course the AMD CCC always says 110hz however this is useless unless windows can see them also which most the time it can not!....Which means they they are not really loaded correctly and are doing nothing it just looks like they are!

Anyhow seeing as i only use 110hz i have written a Qnix monitor driver file that will give me one resolution and one resolution only which is 110hz and using this method i do not need CRU and now my 110hz resolution is now being seen by windows on every single reboot or boot up!...Even with afterburner loading up my overclocks at boot up and everything i want booting up with windows...So if anyone is having as much trouble as i have been having then you are more than welcome to use my 110hz Qnix monitor driver which runs the same pixel clock as my 110hz timings above!...It also allows your cards memory to downclock on the desktop!....

However you are stuck at 110hz unless you uninstall this driver or replace it with the generic pnp driver or the regular Qnix driver!....This driver does not support any other refresh rate which i am more than happy with

110hz Qnix driver

110hz_qnix.zip 1k .zip file

















*


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanp2501*
> 
> was very nervous but purchased from amazon seller "stylebang" no seriously...then i received stand does not seem wobbly or poor but have purchased new stand kinda bummed i have to take panel apart to install but whatevers...
> 
> 0 dead pixel and slight bleed at bottom middle frankly i could care less but if i have to take apart anyway i guess i need to just fold tape?
> 
> evga classy 780ti/corsair vengance 16gb/i74770k/z87 sabre
> 
> i was only able to get 110 not sure how people are gaming at 120 screen has issues for me at that config so far have installed driver and asus 27 color profile i don't understand my frames either. I guess I need to look at going sli? or lowering settings? my frame tests go 110 110 valid but i never hit past 50 on the games i like (which are hogs and i am at a higher res) just 1440p blues? sli a must? or am i doing something wrong here. So far i have tried adaptive and vsync in geforce panel but they seem same to be honest i have no issues with the lower frames (i am used to console gaming which ugh btw ps4 won't work after using adaptor 24+1 groan...) just wondering...i keep vsync off in game so they won't interfere i guess i will reverse and go from there. i also saw the post about game specific configs wow that is awesome but too much for mwa...


Your pushing a ton more pixels, your gonna have to learn to turn things down or go SLI to hit 120fps at 1440p


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanp2501*
> 
> was very nervous but purchased from amazon seller "stylebang" no seriously...then i received stand does not seem wobbly or poor but have purchased new stand kinda bummed i have to take panel apart to install but whatevers...
> 
> 0 dead pixel and slight bleed at bottom middle frankly i could care less but if i have to take apart anyway i guess i need to just fold tape?
> 
> evga classy 780ti/corsair vengance 16gb/i74770k/z87 sabre
> 
> i was only able to get 110 not sure how people are gaming at 120 screen has issues for me at that config so far have installed driver and asus 27 color profile i don't understand my frames either. I guess I need to look at going sli? or lowering settings? my frame tests go 110 110 valid but i never hit past 50 on the games i like (which are hogs and i am at a higher res) just 1440p blues? sli a must? or am i doing something wrong here. So far i have tried adaptive and vsync in geforce panel but they seem same to be honest i have no issues with the lower frames (i am used to console gaming which ugh btw ps4 won't work after using adaptor 24+1 groan...) just wondering...i keep vsync off in game so they won't interfere i guess i will reverse and go from there. i also saw the post about game specific configs wow that is awesome but too much for mwa...


You shouldn't need to sli a 780ti to be smashing at least 100fps in most games tbh.

I have 760sli, only 2gb, which is pretty comparable to your 780ti (actually weaker), and I can comfortably hit 100fps in most games, excluding Metro, Crysis 3 etc.


----------



## seanp2501

I think you are right. I have everything maxed out I have heard aa can be turned off but i will need to experiment. I can honestly not tell difference in terms of playability (I am not very sensitive to difference from say 60/to 45-50 fps and I do like the nicer res.). I just didn't know if I set something wrong. In terms of what I am playing stuff like Titanfall Tome Total War 2 Tomb Raider and AC4 all resource intensive and in some cases not optimized well as of yet...

I am soooo bummed about no ps4 thing I tried a couple of things already no luck...

update looks like i get like a 20fps boost (which is basically what i was looking for from other benchmarks i saw) by having nvidia control panel vsync on and the game vsync off....originally both were on


----------



## tx-jose

Well I think I killed my monitor. Got a nice overclock of 110hz with no artifacts and I went to turn on my PC to test a new CPU OC with lower voltage and as soon as I launch P95 My monitor dies. Thought it was the OC so I power off clear CMOS and boot again.....

Uhhhmmmmmmm....... nothing. Monitor powers on but the on light goes really dim blue. My PC boots fine I can hear windows startup through my headphones.

Did I kill it?? Or Is My GTX780 to blame??

EDIT:

well its dead.....plugged in my 1080P ASUS and it works like a charm even though it has been in a garage for over a year lol

well this blows.....DONT OC YOUR MONITORS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Guess ill wait and grab one of those ASUS 1440P Gsync monitors once they come out. or maybe juat a 144hz 1080P until they do release it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Thank you for the help. I have updated the OP with the color sustainer (windows icc profile workaround) and nvidia card owner monitor overclock methods


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Thank you for the help. I have updated the OP with the color sustainer (windows icc profile workaround) and nvidia card owner monitor overclock methods


You could also add some type of warning link explaining that the multi-input ones are useless for gaming.


----------



## wntrsnowg

I added it to the FAQ. Thank you.

Also, I changed the thread title by taking off the "(Read 1st post)" until I hear back from you guys/girls that the OP is nice and updated, so let me know! Feedback ftw


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

You should change
Quote:


> Q: Is the multi-input model of these monitors good for gaming?
> A: No. They have high response times causing motion blur and are bad for gaming.


To say "two frames of input lag" instead since that's different and I can see many people misinterpreting it as just being the the generic response time measurement.


----------



## xDeceiver

Hi, just got my X-star from dream-seller today (took 9 days to get here). No dead/stuck pixels. I'm running a 780 Ti, so from what I've read it seems that I should just use NVIDIA Control Panel and install the qnix driver. Following the settings pictured in Toasty's thread here, I OC'd my monitor to 120Hz. But I had an issue with my GPU idling too hot for my liking (~46 C when it usually idles at ~30 C). In that thread it says to set the timings to Automatic / CVT reduced blank to allow the video card to clock down when idle. However, when i try this with 120Hz i get greenish lines across my screen. So i ask:

- I'm assuming i can use the qnix drivers with an X-Star monitor correct?
- Any way to get 120Hz without my GPU idling hot? Perhaps using CRU instead?

edit: just saw lawson's post. But he's using CRU, which has has a 'Back Porch' field and NVIDIA Control Panel does not.

edit2: solved... for now. After doing a quick search about the back porch i found another post by lawson here and using the 110Hz timings in lawson's post linked in the previous edit, I'm now running smoothly and idling cool @ 110Hz. And also thinking about what you said how there's virtually no difference between 110 and 120 Hz I've decided im happy with 110 as long as everything remains smooth.

Thanks for this massive database of info! If i have any more questions/concerns I'll be sure to stop back here to see if my question has already been answered.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc

Bought it this morning, price has jumped $20 since then.


----------



## blitzed604

So i took the metal frame off over the weekend it wasnt too bad and was pretty straight forward following this youtube video which has been posted here before so thanks to david thomson for that.





Bending the metal frame i almost ruined it a couple times since the metal frame is really flexible it doesnt hold its shape when you bend it back. here are a couple things i would do different if i had the chance to do it again (mine is pretty warped and messed up)

1.)get help from a second person if you are going to be bending it back. most likely the corners will be the parts that need to be bended outwards to match the middle portion of the frame, do one corner at a time grabbing the frame with both hands and twist as if your wringing a wet cloth. have a second person hold the frame steady on the opposite end so that the frame doesnt start bending in other places like mine unfortunately did.

2.)when doing the twist motion hold it in place for 10 seconds or so careful not to bend it out too much but to hold it in that one place, the metal doesnt hold its place well and you really have to get the metal to form to the bend because its quite flexible.

3.)Take your time and be patient i started getting frustrated, and it was too late before i could think of having my brother hold it still since i ended up bending the frame quite out of shape, but it did improve the backlight bleed still and im happy with the results since its mostly used for gaming.

4.)Dont try to run the monitor without the metal frame on the front, it was mentioned on another forum and i was about to try it out but then i quickly realized nothing is really holding the panel back and is probably hanging off something it shouldnt be. Soooo dont be dumb like me!

5.)When watching the youtube video there is a step where he is removing the cables from behind the panel and the one closest to the buttons kind of breaks, to avoid this dont use a screwdriver to push on the plug instead remove the side metal rail since its in the way, and then use your fingers to pinch the plug together should be very easy to slide out.

6.) If i could do it again i would take it apart once bend it a little put it back together then try it for a few weeks before opening it up again and working it a bit more. Once you get the panel out of the metal casing you will become comfortable with the wiring and assembly and dissassembly (aleast i did). That way you can keep marking which ends need improvement and which ends maybe tape can fix. the mistake i made was trying to look for light on the table but realized that is not really an accurate way of checking and really the only way i could is by putting it back together and look for backlight bleed.

Heres a picture of before and after. The biggest improvement was getting rid of the big yellow blotches. ive also got the brightness set to +18 clicks in the second. Overall im happy with my purchase since the backlight bleed is not noticible during gaming and i can hit 120hz no problem thanks to lawsons timing info.
http://imgur.com/vlNBRHh,UuAfVX8#0
For some reason the monitor looks better then the pics can describe and i really cant notice the backlight bleed that i am getting now unlike before it was very noticible, I also notice that i see less backlight bleed at different angles but then it shows on an opposite corners so i wonder if anyone has an answer for that.

I noticed that i dont get very deep blacks with this monitor is it just my monitor or do all X-star monitors have this issue?

Anyways hopefully i can help someone else out with this post, i recommend you give it a shot just make sure you have lots of time on your hands be patient, if i didnt manage to destroy mine you should be fine as well.Last thing is before you try any of this just remove the back 4 screws and see if maybe its just the plastic panel that is causing backlight bleed for you, i read on other places that it could be the culprit as well so i just wanted to share that as well.


----------



## Boosterfire

Hi all!

I've decided to take a leap of faith and ordered an X-Star DP2710 ! I ordered it from dream-seller, along with a Dell pivot/swivel/tilt stand from another seller.

I am grateful that I did take the time to read about this topic, as dream-seller sent me this message after my order:
Quote:


> Currently we throw a launching event for customers having bought DP2710 PLS or QX2710 PLS (they are same panel). As the event, we would like to suggest UPGRADING your DP2710 PLS to DP2710 Multi True10 for FREE (If you have purchased perfect pixel model we will also send perfect pixel one).
> Please let us know your decision as soon as possible.


Rest assured, I denied this _very generous offer_!









I've also read about the various procedures that may be necessary (black tape and the like). I've got an interrogation concerning the BLB. In David Thomson's series of video, I noticed that many mentions are made of the pressure that is applied on the panel. My understanding is that, along with the faulty edge that allows light to escape around the panel, this is the cause of the BLB. I noticed that there are a few spaces (the black cubic things) that push on the panel, but only in specific places. I'm wondering if anyone has tried to longer spaces, that could push on the whole perimeter of the panel instead of in just a few places. Perhaps this could ensure that the pressure is more even, and limit BLB (along with the black tape)? Anyway, there are 1800 pages to this, so it might have been mentioned before









Cheers!


----------



## seanp2501

crossing my fingers going to try and use this to get my ps4 on wish me luck guys...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0SJCX4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

i am now in gaming heaven...some games like ac4 need adaptive sync on in nvpanel most i just leave either msa on low or sma very minor changes. Metro 2033 screams which surprised the heck out of me. IT never did that and day z is 60fps steady...titanfall is 110 steady all maxed so are most older games...i don't get how people push to 120 at that point i notice distorted colors This thing has changed my life i am very thankful to the posters here i am almost thinking i shouldn't pick up the gsync panel i imagine it will have same issues with connecting consoles sigh...


----------



## lawson67

On the last page i have made a overclocking guide and have asked wntrsnowg to post it in the OP...if anyone wants anything adding to it then please let me know...Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> Hi, just got my X-star from dream-seller today (took 9 days to get here). No dead/stuck pixels. I'm running a 780 Ti, so from what I've read it seems that I should just use NVIDIA Control Panel and install the qnix driver. Following the settings pictured in Toasty's thread here, I OC'd my monitor to 120Hz. But I had an issue with my GPU idling too hot for my liking (~46 C when it usually idles at ~30 C). In that thread it says to set the timings to Automatic / CVT reduced blank to allow the video card to clock down when idle. However, when i try this with 120Hz i get greenish lines across my screen. So i ask:
> 
> - I'm assuming i can use the qnix drivers with an X-Star monitor correct?
> - Any way to get 120Hz without my GPU idling hot? Perhaps using CRU instead?
> 
> edit: just saw lawson's post. But he's using CRU, which has has a 'Back Porch' field and NVIDIA Control Panel does not.
> 
> edit2: solved... for now. After doing a quick search about the back porch i found another post by lawson here and using the 110Hz timings in lawson's post linked in the previous edit, I'm now running smoothly and idling cool @ 110Hz. And also thinking about what you said how there's virtually no difference between 110 and 120 Hz I've decided im happy with 110 as long as everything remains smooth.
> 
> Thanks for this massive database of info! If i have any more questions/concerns I'll be sure to stop back here to see if my question has already been answered.


I am glad my timings helped you!....Also you are correct the Qnix driver does work for the X-star monitor....However if you want an X-star monitor driver i have posted one below for you.

x-star.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## tietherope

After taking an odd shipping route across a few countries (Korea, Anchorage, Memphis, Edmonton, Calgary, Mississauga, Markham, ON), my X-star that shipped on Friday is ready for pickup up the road from work. Looking forward to setting it up tonight and hope there are no noticeable issues. I'm coming from a 27" Samsung TN panel.

I've picked it up now and somehow got away without paying any taxes.


----------



## theback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I've decided to take a leap of faith and ordered an X-Star DP2710 ! I ordered it from dream-seller, along with a Dell pivot/swivel/tilt stand from another seller.
> 
> I am grateful that I did take the time to read about this topic, as dream-seller sent me this message after my order:
> Rest assured, I denied this _very generous offer_!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also read about the various procedures that may be necessary (black tape and the like). I've got an interrogation concerning the BLB. In David Thomson's series of video, I noticed that many mentions are made of the pressure that is applied on the panel. My understanding is that, along with the faulty edge that allows light to escape around the panel, this is the cause of the BLB. I noticed that there are a few spaces (the black cubic things) that push on the panel, but only in specific places. I'm wondering if anyone has tried to longer spaces, that could push on the whole perimeter of the panel instead of in just a few places. Perhaps this could ensure that the pressure is more even, and limit BLB (along with the black tape)? Anyway, there are 1800 pages to this, so it might have been mentioned before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


It was what happened to me, he replaced my faulty pls-dvi with a pixel perfect dvi-hdmi ah-va. Does nobody can say me if my version (only dvi and hdmi) can be faster then the dp version? I cant find reviews about it.
thank you , I'm being sad , but its to late, the monitor is on the road and I red that it was a multi too late


----------



## 4GHz

I too got my Qnix QX2710 (matte) today!
I bought it from red-cap for $326.93 (converted from €) and it is flawless!








This really is a huge difference to my previous TN panel. Props to the manufacturer and thank you for this thread.
So, I guess I'm a member now?


----------



## Boosterfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theback*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I've decided to take a leap of faith and ordered an X-Star DP2710 ! I ordered it from dream-seller, along with a Dell pivot/swivel/tilt stand from another seller.
> 
> I am grateful that I did take the time to read about this topic, as dream-seller sent me this message after my order:
> Rest assured, I denied this _very generous offer_!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also read about the various procedures that may be necessary (black tape and the like). I've got an interrogation concerning the BLB. In David Thomson's series of video, I noticed that many mentions are made of the pressure that is applied on the panel. My understanding is that, along with the faulty edge that allows light to escape around the panel, this is the cause of the BLB. I noticed that there are a few spaces (the black cubic things) that push on the panel, but only in specific places. I'm wondering if anyone has tried to longer spaces, that could push on the whole perimeter of the panel instead of in just a few places. Perhaps this could ensure that the pressure is more even, and limit BLB (along with the black tape)? Anyway, there are 1800 pages to this, so it might have been mentioned before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> It was what happened to me, he replaced my faulty pls-dvi with a pixel perfect dvi-hdmi ah-va. Does nobody can say me if my version (only dvi and hdmi) can be faster then the dp version? I cant find reviews about it.
> thank you , I'm being sad , but its to late, the monitor is on the road and I red that it was a multi too late
Click to expand...

M

Did he even ask you if you were okay with the replacement being a different model?

If not, I'd consider looking into a complaint to Ebay. I'm not entirely sure, but my guess is that a vendor can't replace a faulty item with something different without the buyer's consent.

I believe the AH-VA panel is regarded to be quite worse than the PlS one. It does not overclock (skips frames).

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


----------



## theback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> M
> 
> Did he even ask you if you were okay with the replacement being a different model?
> 
> If not, I'd consider looking into a complaint to Ebay. I'm not entirely sure, but my guess is that a vendor can't replace a faulty item with something different without the buyer's consent.
> 
> I believe the AH-VA panel is regarded to be quite worse than the PlS one. It does not overclock (skips frames).
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk


He asked me , I didn't only check the fact that he was speaking about an x-star multi cos since I bought the first monitor the only x-star that he had were dvi








Now I cant wait to resend it back to korea and exct exct cos I need the monitor also for work
I'm only asking if without the displayport (so with only hdmi-dvi) I could have better input lag or if it was always the same


----------



## Darkmader

I was trying to figure out why 96hz was maxing out my memory when everybody said it shouldn't. It looks like it's all about the reduce dvi frequency in CCC. Once that's disabled and a restart it now downclocks just fine. I tightened up my screws on my DVI cable from monoprice as they weren't but no dice as 96hz is the max it'll go on my X-star. Heck, I can't even do 100 without the lines you'll see on webpages at the top. Not a biggie as 96 is better than 60 and with a 6870 I'm not crushing anything past it except for league of legends.

One question though that I'm sure thats been brought up before but I know that running past 60 will produce a temp burn in but it'll correct itself if you go back to 60 for a while. Could there be a possibility of a permanent burn-in if you OC right off the bat when you get the monitor including OC'ing while on the desktop, basically overclocking 24/7.


----------



## george241312

Just got my X-Star Arrived in 4 days, Bought the regular version no dead pixels and very minimal BLB.
So how do i get started on overclocking her ? i got 2 290x in Crossfire.
I had a TN panel 1ms and i cant tell the diffrence with this monitor.
Everything Looks Absolutely amazing its like a whole new world.


----------



## spartan0078

QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll from accessorieswhole

Hey, just bought one of these bad boys, AND joined the site, both good choices







. Highest OC I've been able to get it 90hz, runs great though.

I'm from Ontario and had some tiny issues getting the monitor to my door step. Package arrived in Missisauga and got delayed for customs, then it got shipped to Tennessee for some unknown reason, then back to Mississauga, Ontario and finally to me, total time was 5 days. Cost me 45 dollars in taxes once it got to me though. And oddly enough, the seller I bought it from changed his world wide shipping from Korea to exclude Canada after my order.


----------



## unfloopy

Hi all! I noticed something odd about my QNIX monitor today, so I thought I'd ask here to see if anybody has any insight.

I purchased the monitor in February, and it's been working fine. However, it kind of looks like something inside the monitor has expanded, resulting in the front bezel separating from the rear case.


http://imgur.com/KK3Ad


I'm sure the monitor didn't have this bulging problem back in February, but it may have happened gradually and escaped my notice. I've never overclocked the monitor nor done anything remotely extreme with it, so I'm not sure how to explain something like this.

Has anybody experienced this problem? Any advice would be much appreciated!


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unfloopy*
> 
> Hi all! I noticed something odd about my QNIX monitor today, so I thought I'd ask here to see if anybody has any insight.
> 
> I purchased the monitor in February, and it's been working fine. However, it kind of looks like something inside the monitor has expanded, resulting in the front bezel separating from the rear case.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/KK3Ad
> 
> 
> I'm sure the monitor didn't have this bulging problem back in February, but it may have happened gradually and escaped my notice. I've never overclocked the monitor nor done anything remotely extreme with it, so I'm not sure how to explain something like this.
> 
> Has anybody experienced this problem? Any advice would be much appreciated!


wow never seen that.


----------



## the9quad

Also I really think a link to SVP needs to be added to the OP. It is one of the nice features of overclocking this monitor is being able to watch movies with motion interpolation. If you have a new QNIX and have never experienced movies at 120 fps with smooth motion you owe it to yourself to at least check it out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1385468/svp-smooth-video-project-discussion-thread


----------



## unfloopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> Have you tried snapping the bezel back into place, or is the 'bulge' preventing it? I took my bezel off today to take the stand off, and the bezel snapped back on really easily; however, getting the bezel off was a *****. So I would think for it to snap out of place by itself would take some serious force. Could just be that something got bent


I tried earlier but didn't want to put too much force on it - just tried again with more force, and it snapped back into place! That side of the monitor still looks like it's "bulging" in comparison to the other side but less so now. I haven't moved the monitor at all since I set it up, so I feel like it has to be something internal that caused the bezel to snap out in the first place. Kind of weird, but I'm just hoping that this won't be problematic in the future...

Thank you for your reply!


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theback*
> 
> He asked me , I didn't only check the fact that he was speaking about an x-star multi cos since I bought the first monitor the only x-star that he had were dvi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I cant wait to resend it back to korea and exct exct cos I need the monitor also for work
> I'm only asking if without the displayport (so with only hdmi-dvi) I could have better input lag or if it was always the same


Unfortunately the input lag will be there regardless of which input you use. The problem arises with part of the circuitry in the multi input monitors. This is handled by the graphics card in the dvi only models so it isn't an issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> One question though that I'm sure thats been brought up before but I know that running past 60 will produce a temp burn in but it'll correct itself if you go back to 60 for a while. Could there be a possibility of a permanent burn-in if you OC right off the bat when you get the monitor including OC'ing while on the desktop, basically overclocking 24/7.


Haven't heard of any instances of permanent image retention, I see this quite a lot with my monitors if I'm browsing these forums for a while and switch to a dark background like Steam. If It's been a very long time you can even make it out on a light background. It doesn't take too long to fade though once you've changed the image to something else. I don't bother going back down to 60Hz either.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

I'm new to Paypal, is it normal for a payment to be delayed 7 days (aka echeck) if it's taking the money from your bank account?


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I'm new to Paypal, is it normal for a payment to be delayed 7 days (aka echeck) if it's taking the money from your bank account?


I got this:

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=first+paypal+payment+taking+long+time

(Sorry, I know I'm a douche...)


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> I got this:
> 
> http://lmgtfy.com/?q=first+paypal+payment+taking+long+time
> 
> (Sorry, I know I'm a douche...)


lmao, I've made the same response many times, no worries.

I just wanted to hear from people in this thread as I thought it might be related to the sellers or something like that.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> lmao, I've made the same response many times, no worries.
> 
> I just wanted to hear from people in this thread as I thought it might be relevant to the sellers or something like that.


OK, serious response now









Yes, it is not unusual for some payments to be held when you first start using PayPal


----------



## Dwigz

Hi guys, i'm trying to overclock my x-star using nvidia control panel but the qnix monitor driver doesnt seem to work. I have updated my nvidia drivers with the patcher so my gtx780 will work but just cant seem to find the x-star monitor driver. Can someone point me in the right direction please?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwigz*
> 
> Hi guys, i'm trying to overclock my x-star using nvidia control panel but the qnix monitor driver doesnt seem to work. I have updated my nvidia drivers with the patcher so my gtx780 will work but just cant seem to find the x-star monitor driver. Can someone point me in the right direction please?


Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the X-Star.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

x-star.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## Dwigz

Thank you so much for the quick response and advice! I'm running win 8.1 and didn't think that would affect things. My monitor is now over-clocked to 96Hz


----------



## seanp2501

just took mine apart (much easier thanks to the vids in page one it was a breeze) to take my little stand off. Mounted to this:

http://www.ergotron.com/ProductsDetails/tabid/65/PRDID/126/language/en-US/Default.aspx

but had to buy m4/8mm screws in order to mount it....


----------



## xDeceiver

got this stand for $78-> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUWEXE0 and a 24'' BenQ from newegg (for $120!!) set up yesterday night. I was searching all around for an adjustable but relatively inexpensive dual monitor stand that could hold my X-star in landscape and a 24" in portrait. There's some that say they'll hold two monitors up to 24" for $50, but i questioned whether they'd be able to handle the weight of the X-star and a 24". And the ones that say they'll hold two monitors up to 27" inches either didn't have adjustable arms or were ~$100. So even though I'm only using two monitors (for now; may add a third in the future if i can find a deal on a 24" with a displayport), i got a triple monitor stand because it was cheaper and more adjustable than any of the other dual monitor stands that i looked at. The stand itself is really solid and heavy. My only gripe is that the legs are rather large for my small desk (i need a new desk too). You also have the option to mount it to your desk and get rid of the base to make some room if your desk is sturdy and thick enough. Also this isn't a flaw of the stand but the X-star's vesa holes were really shallow, so i had to use 4 washers with each screw to make the mount secure. I suppose you could just get smaller screws too, but i just used the ones that came with the stand.

Here's some pics:

i need to get a longer cable for the monitor on the left. You can see the cord had to go in a straight line across the right side of my desk instead of using the cable management loops on the stand.


Here you can see it has some cable management loops.

Used a small weight and my headset to counter the weight of the other monitor for now.

You can see how i used the washerswith the vesa mount here. Also had to have the stand hang off my desk a bit to make room for my keyboard (again, need a new desk), but its fine.


----------



## magixx

Anyone know where I can purchase a replacement mainboard/motherboard/controller for my QNIX Evo II? I seem to have broken the brightness down functionality and all other OSD controls by using a cheap miniDP to DVI-I adapter. At maximum brightness it's not very fun to work with and it cannot be fixed by software. I also took it apart but could not find anything burned out on the mainboard to replace.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Thank you for the help. I have updated the OP with the color sustainer (windows icc profile workaround) and nvidia card owner monitor overclock methods
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I added it to the FAQ. Thank you.
> 
> Also, I changed the thread title by taking off the "(Read 1st post)" until I hear back from you guys/girls that the OP is nice and updated, so let me know! Feedback ftw
Click to expand...

Very Nice! ... and thank you for all your hard work







... +R again









1st my apologies for not commenting sooner, family sadness had to travel to AZ ... Looks really good, but in step 2 single Nvidia cards, I'd mention (link) the ToastyX reference (which you do cover below) for 400/500/ & SLI series/setups needing the patch just incase someone doesn't read further down? nit picky but might help









As far as the "QX2710 LED Evolution II DPmulti True10" , multi input FAQ ... you might mention the offending monitor by name and refer them to an honest review *[HERE]* why it doesn't effectively overclock











AND if you do go with Lawson's entire mini guide, as seen below, I'm suggesting to him to make it *more clear* to try NvCP standard timings FIRST for their 110Hz AND 120Hz without messing with custom timings as it is for sure simplier and the pixel clocks are "slightly" lower than Lawson's custom timings and your gpu ram will downclock just fine for sure! ... acronym KISS









Stock NvCP 110Hz timings - w/proper gpu ram downclocking!


Stock NvCP 120Hz timings - w/proper gpu ram downclocking!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> *Lawsons overclocking guide and custom timings!*
> 
> There are 2 methods that can be used to overclock your monitor depending on weather your are a Nvidia user or an AMD card user!...For Nvidia users using the NVCP with the Qnix monitor driver is the best way to overclock!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For Amd users you have to overclock using EDID overrides which are created using toastyx Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) Which you can download here
> 
> AMD card must use toastyx Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) because the catalyst control center "CCC" does not support the creation of custom resolution like the Nvidia control panel NVCP does!
> 
> *Amd card owners overlclocking method*
> 
> 1: Overclcoking using AMD cards is a simple process firstly you need to download Toastyx AMD/ATI Pixel Clock Patcher which will patch your AMD drivers!....You can down load this from here Once downloaded you need to run it to patch your drivers... Now move to step 2...
> 
> 2: Once the drivers are patched you can now create your custom resolutions!...Open CRU and uncheck the include extension block in CRU and create your custom resolutions!...Feel free to use use my custom timings from the screen shots below!...
> 
> Once you have created your custom resolutions you will need to reboot so that the EDID overrides can been seen by windows...Once back on the desktop go to CCC and expand desktop management and then click on desktop properties and you should now see your new refresh rates listed in the refresh rate drop down box....You are done now and all you need to do next is test!
> 
> *Monitor Method For Nvidia Cards!*...Step one of this method assumes that you have used CRU with a Nvida card and that you want to swap over from CRU to the NVCP method!....However you can still use this guide if have not used CRU and you have never overclocked your monitor before with a Nvidia card by Starting at step 2:
> 
> IF you are using CRU you need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience as it conflicts with CRU EDID overrides.... The OP needs updating...however follow the instruction below to move from CRU to the monitor driver method
> 
> 1: Go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 2:
> 
> 2: Not all Nvidia cards need to be patched so you can just use the monitor driver at first and then make your custom resolutions in the Nvidia control panel "NVCP" then test!...If your custom resolution are not being seen by windows then use the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe and run it and reboot test again!.....*However you must use nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe if you are running SLI and if you are using a 400/500-series GPU*..Both the Nvidia patches can be downloaded from toastyx site here....Now once you are patched reboot again and go to step 3:
> 
> 3: Download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/
> 
> 
> 
> Go to Nvidia control panel and make your custom resolutions you can use my 120hz tightened timings below which if you have a 120hz capable monitor should allow you to hit 120hz with a pixel clock of 459mhz which will give you a strong signal!....However your ram will not down-clock using those timings as the vertical blanking values are to low....so if my tightened timings work i would like you to try my 120hz timings that allow your cards memory to downclock on the desktop!....These timings run a higher pixel clock of 487mhz which i have also linked below!...
> 
> If you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use any timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution!... Also you can try using my 110hz timings which i am ruining 24/7 now as i can not tell the difference between 120hz and 110hz and using my 110hz timings you are only running a pixel clock of 453mhz which is only 3mhz above the pixelclock limit of 450mhz and these timings allows your card memory clock to downclock on the desktop!....Which to me just seems like the all round perfect solution!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz tighten timings
> 
> 
> 
> 120hz memory down clockable timings
> 
> 
> 
> 110hz timings
> 
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:: All the timings Above can be used with both Nvidia and AMD cards and you can use them in both NVCP or CRU!... You do not need to set Back Porch & Blanking in NVCP just use my front porch and sync width Values from my CRU screen shots and NVCP will calculate the Back Porch & Blanking values automatically from the other values of mine that you have just entered.
> 
> *Nvidia card owner can also use lower vertical blanking values than any Amd card which means they some maybe able to hit 120hz and 110hz using standard timings without the need to use my memory optimized timings and still achieve memory downclock*....However if you find that you can not hit 120hz with stranded timings then use my tightened 120hz timings which will give you a much stronger signal and a much higher chance of hitting 120hz!...However bear in mind that with these timings your cards memory will not downclock on the desktop so you may want to set 60hz or 96hz or even 110hz while on the desktop and not gaming!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> On the last page i have made a overclocking guide and have asked wntrsnowg to post it in the OP...if anyone wants anything adding to it then please let me know...Thanks
Click to expand...

Excellent work! ... +R again








See my suggestions above for some fine tuning









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> So i took the metal frame off over the weekend it wasnt too bad and was pretty straight forward following this youtube video which has been posted here before so thanks to david thomson for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bending the metal frame i almost ruined it a couple times since the metal frame is really flexible it doesnt hold its shape when you bend it back. here are a couple things i would do different if i had the chance to do it again (mine is pretty warped and messed up)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1.)get help from a second person if you are going to be bending it back. most likely the corners will be the parts that need to be bended outwards to match the middle portion of the frame, do one corner at a time grabbing the frame with both hands and twist as if your wringing a wet cloth. have a second person hold the frame steady on the opposite end so that the frame doesnt start bending in other places like mine unfortunately did.
> 
> 2.)when doing the twist motion hold it in place for 10 seconds or so careful not to bend it out too much but to hold it in that one place, the metal doesnt hold its place well and you really have to get the metal to form to the bend because its quite flexible.
> 
> 3.)Take your time and be patient i started getting frustrated, and it was too late before i could think of having my brother hold it still since i ended up bending the frame quite out of shape, but it did improve the backlight bleed still and im happy with the results since its mostly used for gaming.
> 
> 4.)Dont try to run the monitor without the metal frame on the front, it was mentioned on another forum and i was about to try it out but then i quickly realized nothing is really holding the panel back and is probably hanging off something it shouldnt be. Soooo dont be dumb like me!
> 
> 5.)When watching the youtube video there is a step where he is removing the cables from behind the panel and the one closest to the buttons kind of breaks, to avoid this dont use a screwdriver to push on the plug instead remove the side metal rail since its in the way, and then use your fingers to pinch the plug together should be very easy to slide out.
> 
> 6.) If i could do it again i would take it apart once bend it a little put it back together then try it for a few weeks before opening it up again and working it a bit more. Once you get the panel out of the metal casing you will become comfortable with the wiring and assembly and dissassembly (aleast i did). That way you can keep marking which ends need improvement and which ends maybe tape can fix. the mistake i made was trying to look for light on the table but realized that is not really an accurate way of checking and really the only way i could is by putting it back together and look for backlight bleed.
> 
> Heres a picture of before and after. The biggest improvement was getting rid of the big yellow blotches. ive also got the brightness set to +18 clicks in the second. Overall im happy with my purchase since the backlight bleed is not noticible during gaming and i can hit 120hz no problem thanks to lawsons timing info.
> http://imgur.com/vlNBRHh,UuAfVX8#0
> For some reason the monitor looks better then the pics can describe and i really cant notice the backlight bleed that i am getting now unlike before it was very noticible, I also notice that i see less backlight bleed at different angles but then it shows on an opposite corners so i wonder if anyone has an answer for that.
> 
> I noticed that i dont get very deep blacks with this monitor is it just my monitor or do all X-star monitors have this issue?
> 
> Anyways hopefully i can help someone else out with this post, i recommend you give it a shot just make sure you have lots of time on your hands be patient, if i didnt manage to destroy mine you should be fine as well.Last thing is before you try any of this just remove the back 4 screws and see if maybe its just the plastic panel that is causing backlight bleed for you, i read on other places that it could be the culprit as well so i just wanted to share that as well
> 
> 
> .


Excellent input/tips, it was needed... +R









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Also I really think a link to SVP needs to be added to the OP. It is one of the nice features of overclocking this monitor is being able to watch movies with motion interpolation. If you have a new QNIX and have never experienced movies at 120 fps with smooth motion you owe it to yourself to at least check it out.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1385468/svp-smooth-video-project-discussion-thread


NICE! +R


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> AND if you do go with Lawson's entire mini guide, as seen below, I'm suggesting to him to make it *more clear* to try NvCP standard timings FIRST for their 110Hz AND 120Hz without messing with custom timings as it is for sure simplier and the pixel clocks are "slightly" lower than Lawson's custom timings and your gpu ram will downclock just fine for sure! ... acronym KISS


Thanks for pointing this out some important facts tomcat + REP which i have amended in my guide now!....Also just to be clear your suggestion about the 120hz standard timings would only apply to Nvidia card owners and not AMD card owners as there is no benefit to an AMD card user setting standard timings as he can not downclock his memory using these timings so he might as well use the tightened timings that will lower his pixel clock and give him a stronger signal to be able to even hit 120hz...Apart from the fact that many if not most can not use standard timings at 120hz with a AMD card without artefacts and scan lines meaning most will have no choice but to use tightened timings anyhow!.. Also not all AMD card owners will be able to hit my 120hz memory down clockable timings as it runs such a high pixel clock!

Also i do believe that i did cover it in this part in my guide below that you have made bold and which i have also made bold in the guide now!...Also i have adding to the bottom of my guide the last bold paragraph in this post called Important information Using 120hz timings...so Hopfully everyone will be clear now

*Nvidia card owner can also use lower vertical blanking values than any Amd card which means that some maybe able to hit 120hz and 110hz using standard timings without the need to use my memory optimized timings and still achieve memory downclock*....However if you find that you can not hit 120hz with stranded timings then use my tightened 120hz timings which will give you a much stronger signal and a much higher chance of hitting 120hz!...However bear in mind that with these timings your cards memory will not downclock on the desktop so you may want to set 60hz or 96hz or even 110hz while on the desktop and not gaming!

Also I do believe that it is important that our members should know that there monitors use a display controller which has a 450mhz pixelclock design limit!... Also the fact that know one knows the long term affect of running such high pixel clocks of 483mhz using standard 120hz Nvida NVCP timings and using my AMD down clockable memory timings running a 487mhz pixel clock!...so i have edited my guide with the information below and will ask wntrsnowg to edit it









*Important information Using 120hz timings read below!

Please take into consideration that the monitors display controller chip has a pixel clock design limit of 450mhz!...So using my 120hz AMD cards down clock-able timings will run a much higher pixel clock of 487mhz...And using NVCP standard 120hz timings will set a high pixel clock of 483mhz....No one knows the long term affect of running such a high pixel clock which is why i run 110hz 24/7 now as i can not tell the difference between 110hz and 120hz....However when i did run 120hz i used to use my tightened timings which bought my pixel clock down to 459mhz only 9mhz above the limit and i used to set a 96hz refresh rate when i finished gaming and was back on the desktop!.... I personally would advise the tightened timings option if you want to run 120hz!.. And not to use a 120hz custom resolution running a pixelclock of 487mhz or 483mhz !...we have tested that these timings are possible for some and have made them freely available for you all to try!.. but you all now know the facts so if you are going to use them then please use them at your own use at your own discretion!*


----------



## xDeceiver

I'm not sure what most people consider to be a stable OC, but when running lawson's 110Hz timings (453MHz pixel clock) i would occasionally see a greenish horizontal line flash across my screen for a split second. It wasn't very often. Id say once every few hours or so; though i may just have been seeing things some times as i felt it was making me a bit paranoid. So i decided to look around and see what timings others were using and give them a try. I tried using Tomcat's stock NvCP 110Hz timings, and they seemed to be working for me. But yesterday night i was playing Bioshock Infinite for a few hours (just beat it!), and everything was going good until during one of the final cut scenes i noticed that greenish horizontal line flash on my screen again. Maybe i shouldn't be worried about it, but i feel like if i ever see that line then the OC isn't exactly stable.

So i began messing around with the timings in NVIDIA Control Panel to see if i could get better results with custom timings, but i am not entirely sure what the numbers i am changing mean and more importantly the effect they have. I am under the impression that the lower the pixel clock the better. Is that correct? Also, what effect does the total pixels fields (both horizontal and vertical) have, and why are they not simply 2560,1440? I see custom timings and the horizontal is usually ~2700 and the vertical ~1500, but the ratio is not 16:9. Does that matter, and also how are these numbers derived?

Also, one complaint i have is that when running my monitor at anything other than 60Hz (only tested at 96 and 110Hz), my GPU core and mem clocks DO downclock when idling, however when watching videos, like youtube and such, i see a lot more spikes in the GPU's core and mem clocks resulting in a higher 'semi idle' temp of ~5 C. The higher temp doesn't bother me too much, but the consistent spikes I'm a bit concerned about. I was just wondering if anyone else experienced this, or perhaps it is just a result of something else like my GPU, the custom timings im using, OS, multiple monitors, etc...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Thanks for pointing this out some important facts tomcat + REP which i have amended in my guide now!....Also just to be clear your suggestion about the 120hz standard timings would only apply to Nvidia card owners and not AMD card owners as there is no benefit to an AMD card user setting standard timings as he can not downclock his memory using these timings so he might as well use the tightened timings that will lower his pixel clock and give him a stronger signal to be able to even hit 120hz...Apart from the fact that many if not most can not use standard timings at 120hz with a AMD card without artefacts and scan lines meaning most will have no choice but to use tightened timings anyhow!.. Also not all AMD card owners will be able to hit my 120hz memory down clockable timings as it runs such a high pixel clock!
> 
> Also i do believe that i did cover it in this part in my guide below that you have made bold and which i have also made bold in the guide now!...Also i have adding to the bottom of my guide the last bold paragraph in this post called Important information Using 120hz timings...so Hopfully everyone will be clear now
> 
> *Nvidia card owner can also use lower vertical blanking values than any Amd card which means that some maybe able to hit 120hz and 110hz using standard timings without the need to use my memory optimized timings and still achieve memory downclock*....However if you find that you can not hit 120hz with stranded timings then use my tightened 120hz timings which will give you a much stronger signal and a much higher chance of hitting 120hz!...However bear in mind that with these timings your cards memory will not downclock on the desktop so you may want to set 60hz or 96hz or even 110hz while on the desktop and not gaming!
> 
> Also I do believe that it is important that our members should know that there monitors use a display controller which has a 450mhz pixelclock design limit!... Also the fact that know one knows the long term affect of running such high pixel clocks of 483mhz using standard 120hz Nvida NVCP timings and using my AMD down clockable memory timings running a 487mhz pixel clock!...so i have edited my guide with the information below and will ask wntrsnowg to edit it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Important information Using 120hz timings read below!
> 
> Please take into consideration that the monitors display controller chip has a pixel clock design limit of 450mhz!...So using my 120hz AMD cards down clock-able timings will run a much higher pixel clock of 487mhz...And using NVCP standard 120hz timings will set a high pixel clock of 483mhz....No one knows the long term affect of running such a high pixel clock which is why i run 110hz 24/7 now as i can not tell the difference between 110hz and 120hz....However when i did run 120hz i used to use my tightened timings which bought my pixel clock down to 459mhz only 9mhz above the limit and i used to set a 96hz refresh rate when i finished gaming and was back on the desktop!.... I personally would advise the tightened timings option if you want to run 120hz!.. And not to use a 120hz custom resolution running a pixelclock of 487mhz or 483mhz !...we have tested that these timings are possible for some and have made them freely available for you all to try!.. but you all now know the facts so if you are going to use them then please use them at your own use at your own discretion!*


Yes we are on the same page, my comments for Nvidia only, that's why I tried to keep the suggestions solely within NVCP (Nvidia Control Panel) so they wouldn't be confused with all your great work with CRU









You did indeed cover the nuances of tighter timings vs stock timings, I just thought it would be better if it was mentioned more prominently and earlier in the guide to keep it simplier for the new guys, which is now accomplished, again nice job!

Also nice input regarding the EP269 controller and it's stated pixel clock limit, wish we had more info on what exactly is stressed when running the pixel clock out of spec?







Which also leads to a suggestion for you to "toot your horn" a bit about why we started messing with the timings beyond just achieving a stable overclock, BUT to also have the gpu ram properly downclock if all couldn't be achieved with std timings ... you did some nice work there









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> I'm not sure what most people consider to be a stable OC, but when running lawson's 110Hz timings (453MHz pixel clock) i would occasionally see a greenish horizontal line flash across my screen for a split second. It wasn't very often. Id say once every few hours or so; though i may just have been seeing things some times as i felt it was making me a bit paranoid. So i decided to look around and see what timings others were using and give them a try. I tried using Tomcat's stock NvCP 110Hz timings, and they seemed to be working for me. But yesterday night i was playing Bioshock Infinite for a few hours (just beat it!), and everything was going good until during one of the final cut scenes i noticed that greenish horizontal line flash on my screen again. Maybe i shouldn't be worried about it, but i feel like if i ever see that line then the OC isn't exactly stable.
> 
> So i began messing around with the timings in NVIDIA Control Panel to see if i could get better results with custom timings, but i am not entirely sure what the numbers i am changing mean and more importantly the effect they have. I am under the impression that the lower the pixel clock the better. Is that correct? Also, what effect does the total pixels fields (both horizontal and vertical) have, and why are they not simply 2560,1440? I see custom timings and the horizontal is usually ~2700 and the vertical ~1500, but the ratio is not 16:9. Does that matter, and also how are these numbers derived?
> 
> Also, one complaint i have is that when running my monitor at anything other than 60Hz (only tested at 96 and 110Hz), my GPU core and mem clocks DO downclock when idling, however when watching videos, like youtube and such, i see a lot more spikes in the GPU's core and mem clocks resulting in a higher 'semi idle' temp of ~5 C. The higher temp doesn't bother me too much, but the consistent spikes I'm a bit concerned about. I was just wondering if anyone else experienced this, or perhaps it is just a result of something else like my GPU, the custom timings im using, OS, multiple monitors, etc...


Most people would consider a stable OC as one that pases the frame skipping tests while showing no obvious artifacting? But I think if you run the Stock 110Hz timings and keep a close eye on your occasional minor "green line" artifact not progressing or getting worse, you'll be OK especially since your pixel clock is within spec!
Don't be afraid to experiment with different timings but I doubt you'll be able to improve your overall performance beyond the stock timings for a 110Hz OC, while keeping a low pixel clock / stable OC / and your gpu ram properly downclocking at the desktop.

The lower the pixel clock is = better = True, but one of the main culprits is the "Blanking" setting becoming to low (which isn't even directly avaible for Nvidia users) when it gets to low, it can't refresh the gpu ram quick enough to properly downclock, and causes the gpu ram to run full out all the time. Lawson gives a more detailed explanation somewhere within the last 20-30 pages? And even your more technical questions I have also asked before, but no clear answere's, maybe Menacing Tuba or ToastyX himself will right up an explanation some day









No worries with your video's demanding more processing power from your gpu, pretty self explanatory


----------



## Robertdt

What do you guys have the brightness set to (on the monitor itself)? It looks amazing at full brightness but can also be somewhat intense. Anyone know what the original setting is?


----------



## blitzed604

Hey guys i made a video because i have some questions that im hoping you guys may have the answer too. The metal frame that is on the front of the monitor is completely mangled out of shape and i get more backlight bleed then if i didnt touch it at all, so after looking at the monitor carefully i noticed that the only thing that metal piece is doing is holding the panel against the diffuser(i hope thats all its for)
now what if i was to remove that metal frame and instead ran tape along the side of the panel to hold it in place and prevent pressure on the ribbon cables, is it ok to do this? the panel has about half a centimeter of a sort of frame that you can attach the tape to and not have it interfere with the picture(you cant see the tape once the plastic bezel is on top). I made a video of what i have done so you can get a better idea of whats going on. If this is safe to use then thats fanastic because the results are amazing since i get absolutley no back light bleed whatsoever and its no longer annoying see light bleed during dark scenes

Basically my questions are
1.)Is the metal frame just holding the panel and diffuser together?
2.)is it safe to put tape over the ribbon cable looking things that go around my monitor
3.)If the tape is holding the panel up and the panel is NOT hanging from the ribbon cables then there is nothing else that is being stressed on the panel which means it should be safe to use it like this correct?

Thanks for all your input guys hopefully you have better luck than i did with bending the metal frame, since the metal frame definitely is the cause for back-light bleed. Please leave me your thoughts after watching the video.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> What do you guys have the brightness set to (on the monitor itself)? It looks amazing at full brightness but can also be somewhat intense. Anyone know what the original setting is?


The panel has a maximum brightness of 300 cd/m2 which should be more than enough for anyone!...I have my computer in my study which has 6 windows and i set my monitor to 200 cd/m2 which at 120hz or 110hz is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen....If i did not have my computer in my study i would most likely set my brightness anywhere between 120 - 160 cd/m2....I don't think my eyes could stand the strain of looking at a my monitor at maximum brightness for any length of time!... Also typically over time monitors backlighting tend to dim so not setting maximum bright enables you to compensate without any notice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> Hey guys i made a video because i have some questions that im hoping you guys may have the answer too. The metal frame that is on the front of the monitor is completely mangled out of shape and i get more backlight bleed then if i didnt touch it at all, so after looking at the monitor carefully i noticed that the only thing that metal piece is doing is holding the panel against the diffuser(i hope thats all its for)
> now what if i was to remove that metal frame and instead ran tape along the side of the panel to hold it in place and prevent pressure on the ribbon cables, is it ok to do this? the panel has about half a centimeter of a sort of frame that you can attach the tape to and not have it interfere with the picture(you cant see the tape once the plastic bezel is on top). I made a video of what i have done so you can get a better idea of whats going on. If this is safe to use then thats fanastic because the results are amazing since i get absolutley no back light bleed whatsoever and its no longer annoying see light bleed during dark scenes
> 
> Basically my questions are
> 1.)Is the metal frame just holding the panel and diffuser together?
> 2.)is it safe to put tape over the ribbon cable looking things that go around my monitor
> 3.)If the tape is holding the panel up and the panel is NOT hanging from the ribbon cables then there is nothing else that is being stressed on the panel which means it should be safe to use it like this correct?
> 
> Thanks for all your input guys hopefully you have better luck than i did with bending the metal frame, since the metal frame definitely is the cause for back-light bleed. Please leave me your thoughts after watching the video.


Hi blitzed to answer your questions yes the metal frame holds the diffuser layers and the panel together!....Also are you sure that you can not fix/straighten the frame at all as of course this is the best solution and how it designed to work!...As for weather its safe to use Gaffa tape to hold the panel together well i guess time will tell as you have done it now!... Also i would not want to run it on max brightness like that due to heat build up and possibly melting or softening up of the gaffa tape glue which would allow the diffuser layers shift!.. Also i think you should leave the bezel off for day or so to make sure nothing is getting to warm at the brightness level that you usually use.


----------



## BlayZin

Hey guys,

I recently found myself buying a Qnix 2710 because it was seemingly cheap.
I chose *this* offer.
Although the seller "storewithstory" kept his promise with "no dead pixels", I still got one with serious Backlight Bleeding (It is serious for me at least, because it alters my gameplay and watching movies too much).

Some Pictures:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Because of my foolishness (and because I didn't want to pay taxes again), I tried to fix it myself but I was unable to cause of missing knowledge of something like that.
So after opening up I ended up closing it again. Causing some left over marks from opening:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







All in all I am not very happy with this monitor though. Reasons:
-BLB!! Black just isn't black and at some parts its brighter or too dark (color calibating doesn't help)
-Stand still Images burning in (really annoys me too). Its like a plasma.

Do you think that even though I left some little marks (see in picture) I can still try to send it back?








And yeah I read about most sellers won't take it back because of BLB.

*Really appreciate help over here







*


----------



## Boosterfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlayZin*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I recently found myself buying a Qnix 2710 because it was seemingly cheap.
> I chose *this* offer.
> Although the seller "storewithstory" kept his promise with "no dead pixels", I still got one with serious Backlight Bleeding (It is serious for me at least, because it alters my gameplay and watching movies too much).
> 
> Some Pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of my foolishness (and because I didn't want to pay taxes again), I tried to fix it myself but I was unable to cause of missing knowledge of something like that.
> So after opening up I ended up closing it again. Causing some left over marks from opening:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All in all I am not very happy with this monitor though. Reasons:
> -BLB!! Black just isn't black and at some parts its brighter or too dark (color calibating doesn't help)
> -Stand still Images burning in (really annoys me too). Its like a plasma.
> *
> Do you think that even though I left some little marks (see in picture) I can still try to send it back?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah I read about most sellers won't take it back because of BLB.
> 
> *Really appreciate help over here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


You pretty much answered you own question there. My understanding is that the seller will most likely not take the monitor back because of BLB, especially if it now has added scratches. In your case, I would recommend watching the videos in the OP concerning the BLB fix. It should be possible to fix this without breaking the monitor! Do take your time. Make sure that you understand every step before moving on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The panel has a maximum brightness of 300 cd/m2 which should be more than enough for anyone!...I have my computer in my study which has 6 windows and i set my monitor to 200 cd/m2 which at 120hz or 110hz is about 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen....If i did not have my computer in my study i would most likely set my brightness anywhere between 120 - 160 cd/m2....I don't think my eyes could stand the strain of looking at a my monitor at maximum brightness for any length of time!... Also typically over time monitors backlighting tend to dim so not setting maximum bright enables you to compensate without any notice.
> Hi blitzed to answer your questions yes the metal frame holds the diffuser layers and the panel together!....Also are you sure that you can not fix/straighten the frame at all as of course this is the best solution and how it designed to work!...As for weather its safe to use Gaffa tape to hold the panel together well i guess time will tell as you have done it now!... Also i would not want to run it on max brightness like that due to heat build up and possibly melting or softening up of the gaffa tape glue which would allow the diffuser layers shift!.. Also i think you should leave the bezel off for day or so to make sure nothing is getting to warm at the brightness level that you usually use.


Surely electrical tape would be able to withstand the heat generated, considering that's pretty much what it is designed for? I do suspect a bezel made entirely of black tape would look pretty awful, though! Perhaps building a custom frame would be a better solution.

In order news, my monitor is waiting for me at the airport! I'll pick it up today or tomorrow and post its status (BLB, OC, etc.) here







However, the stand I ordered is stuck somewhere between Tucson and Kentucky. Stupid Ebay Global shipping program -.-


----------



## BlayZin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> You pretty much answered you own question there. My understanding is that the seller will most likely not take the monitor back because of BLB, especially if it now has added scratches. In your case, I would recommend watching the videos in the OP concerning the BLB fix. It should be possible to fix this without breaking the monitor! Do take your time. Make sure that you understand every step before moving on.


Thanks for the reply.
I watched the videos before I opened it up of course, but first. There isn't even a conclusion if this works or a before and after video/picture.
And secondly If I push against my BLB corner it won't go away, in fact it is just getting worse, but the quote in the first post says that it worked when it would go away by pushing.
I don't really know what to do.


----------



## Boosterfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlayZin*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> I watched the videos before I opened it up of course, but first. There isn't even a conclusion if this works or a before and after video/picture.
> And secondly If I push against my BLB corner it won't go away, in fact it is just getting worse, but the quote in the first post says that it worked when it would go away by pushing.
> I don't really know what to do.


I guess it is possible that there is another fault with your monitor. The reason why you are referred to that series of video is that it is generally accepted that the BLB is fundamentally caused by the lack of opaque barrier between the panel and the frame. Again, if anything is to note about these monitors, it's that none of them are quite alike. Some of them are perfect out of the box, some of them require some tweaking, and I suppose that yes, some of them are outright faulty. Do you mind explaining to us what modifications you made to your monitor when you opened it up? Perhaps we can assist further then!


----------



## BlayZin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> I guess it is possible that there is another fault with your monitor. The reason why you are referred to that series of video is that it is generally accepted that the BLB is fundamentally caused by the lack of opaque barrier between the panel and the frame. Again, if anything is to note about these monitors, it's that none of them are quite alike. Some of them are perfect out of the box, some of them require some tweaking, and I suppose that yes, some of them are outright faulty. Do you mind explaining to us what modifications you made to your monitor when you opened it up? Perhaps we can assist further then!


Thanks again









I haven't done any modifications. I just opened it up and looked where the BLB could come from, but were unable to find it. So I closed it up again.
I don't trust myself go any further without breaking anything. If its broken I can't afford a new one.

It does not matter where I push on the screen, instead of it lessen the BLB it just lets more light go though.


----------



## lawson67

[
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> Surely electrical tape would be able to withstand the heat generated, considering that's pretty much what it is designed for? I do suspect a bezel made entirely of black tape would look pretty awful, though! Perhaps building a custom frame would be a better solution.


Duck tape is not electrical tape and in places he has taped over the LED lights!....LED lights can and do put out some heat weather its enough to soften the glue and allow the diffuser layers to move i do not know as i said time will tell as i have never known of a panel that was held together by Duck tapel...However i would personally be looking for a better solution like fixing my frame than holding my panel together with duck tape!

Also as for BLB on these Korean monitors it is generally down to the fact that the panel is sat in a bent frame and is one of the major reasons that these panels are A- grade and is why all the sellers state that you may well have BLB and if you do its not a course to RMA the panel....Meaning they will not replace it for BLB....Mine had bad BLB when i got it as in the pictures below and i took the panel apart and straightened the metal frame and fixed my BLB 100% without the use of any tape...Also you do not need any tape to fix BLB on these monitors you just need a straight frame!...And putting tape between the frame and the the panel can generate BLB by itself if the frame is not totally straight by putting more pressure on the panel

The panel is designed to sit in a straight frame the reason for the BLB is where the panel is not straight and in places it is pinching or putting more pressure on the panel as in the area in his picture above if you look along the bottom edge you see BLB then a pinched area and then BLB again!... Once the panel is straight all this will be 100% fixed and gone.....I kind of made a guide when i fixed mine which is a few posts on that page in the link below.

My BLB before the strengthening of the frame and after!...Pictures taken at maximum brightness


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









My guide

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/12970


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlayZin*
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't done any modifications. I just opened it up and looked where the BLB could come from, but were unable to find it. So I closed it up again.
> I don't trust myself go any further without breaking anything. If its broken I can't afford a new one.
> 
> It does not matter where I push on the screen, instead of it lessen the BLB it just lets more light go though.


I very much doubt your will fix you BLB by removing the bezel and trying to put pressure here and there on the panel while it is sat in the metal frame...This generally just moves the BLB from one area of the screen to another...Try to read my guide in the link in the post above it is not a hard job to fix this 100% and it only took me 25- 30mins to strip down repair and refit the panel back in the case


----------



## caenlen

I am tired of my 120hz, I want to try 4k downsample, how do I do this step by step with my AMD R9 290x?

Any have a simple guide?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> I am tired of my 120hz, I want to try 4k downsample, how do I do this step by step with my AMD R9 290x?
> 
> Any have a simple guide?


I could down sampled 4K @ 60hz with my Nvidia cards on the Qnix and could play TR4 fine with it...However i have never tried it with my R9 290 cards as AMD drivers never really supported down sampling in the past...Also you would need a down sampling tool as CRU does not support down sampling!.... It was easy with Nvdia using NVCP custom resolutions but i do not believe it will be so easy using an AMD card...However i have not looked into AMD,s support of down sampling for some time now....Below are my 4k timings and some screen shots i made when down sampling 4K with my Nvidia card on my Qnix...Check out how small the desktop icons are at 4K

Qnix Nvidia 4K downsampling screen shots


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## NABBO

downsampling (3200x1800) sucks on my 2560x1440 monitor ips (hp), blurs the graphics.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NABBO*
> 
> downsampling (3200x1800) sucks on my 2560x1440 monitor ips (hp), blurs the graphics.


ah ok, thanks i won't mess with it then ha


----------



## Ramzinho

dreams shattered









couldn't find any ebay seller shipping to my country







... meh guess i'll have to wait until anything decent pops out here :S


----------



## Forceman

Anyone know how to make color sustainer work with the Asus PB278Q color profile? When I try to associate it, it is red and won't work.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Anyone know how to make color sustainer work with the Asus PB278Q color profile? When I try to associate it, it is red and won't work.


It's red because I stabbed you yesterday in bf4.


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> dreams shattered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> couldn't find any ebay seller shipping to my country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... meh guess i'll have to wait until anything decent pops out here :S


did you check dream-seller? here


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> It's red because I stabbed you yesterday in bf4.


And then immediately killed me with the helo.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Anyone know how to make color sustainer work with the Asus PB278Q color profile? When I try to associate it, it is red and won't work.


Most likely its Because its not supported by color sustainer!... I don't think yaz has gotten around to fixing support for all ICC profiles made different Color calibration software yet?...I know that dispcalGUI ICC profiles are supported by color sustainer and i also believe he has a work around to fix support for others however i don't know the link to that work around as i use my own ICC profiles that i created using dispcalGUI so i have never needed it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Anyone know how to make color sustainer work with the Asus PB278Q color profile? When I try to associate it, it is red and won't work.


Workaround is in the OP.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> did you check dream-seller? here


Does Not Ship To Egypt


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Workaround is in the OP.


Yeah, I tried that before and it didn't work. Can't remember what the problem was though - I'll give it another shot now.

Edit: Hmm. Tried it again and it worked that time - maybe before I was trying to run dispwin from outside the Argyll folder or something. Thanks.


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Does Not Ship To Egypt


*this one* seemingly ships to Egypt, but the price is much more. You may be able to find a cheaper one with a more thorough search.

edit: just did a quick search for qnix version and it seems there are tons that ship to egypt... or at least it doesn't say they don't. *this*, *this*, and *this*.


----------



## zeppelin2k

So, I'm reaaally tempted to pick up one of these QNIX monitors. I love that it can OC to 96hz or more, and I'm excited to try out 1440p. I know everyone is in love with the screens, but I'm a little worried about the color quality. Specifically, the TFT review here mentions an awfully poor black level, which is something I've heard before. In fact it seems to be the worst among the monitors compared. A good black level is something I value quite highly, and this is really worrisome. Do color profiles remedy this a bit?

The screen also does use PWM dimming.. anyone have a problem with it on this particular monitor? Basically, I need to be reconvinced to purchase this. I really wouldn't mind paying another $200-300 for perfect black levels, colors, etc, but then I would lose the OC ability. Thoughts? Are the black levels really that bad?


----------



## Boosterfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> [
> Duck tape is not electrical tape and in places he has taped over the LED lights!....LED lights can and do put out some heat weather its enough to soften the glue and allow the diffuser layers to move i do not know as i said time will tell as i have never known of a panel that was held together by Duck tapel...However i would personally be looking for a better solution like fixing my frame than holding my panel together with duck tape!
> 
> Also as for BLB on these Korean monitors it is generally down to the fact that the panel is sat in a bent frame and is one of the major reasons that these panels are A- grade and is why all the sellers state that you may well have BLB and if you do its not a course to RMA the panel....Meaning they will not replace it for BLB....Mine had bad BLB when i got it as in the pictures below and i took the panel apart and straightened the metal frame and fixed my BLB 100% without the use of any tape...Also you do not need any tape to fix BLB on these monitors you just need a straight frame!...And putting tape between the frame and the the panel can generate BLB by itself if the frame is not totally straight by putting more pressure on the panel
> 
> The panel is designed to sit in a straight frame the reason for the BLB is where the panel is not straight and in places it is pinching or putting more pressure on the panel as in the area in his picture above if you look along the bottom edge you see BLB then a pinched area and then BLB again!... Once the panel is straight all this will be 100% fixed and gone.....I kind of made a guide when i fixed mine which is a few posts on that page in the link below.
> 
> My BLB before the strengthening of the frame and after!...Pictures taken at maximum brightness
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My guide
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/12970


 Woops! Sorry, I didn't realize the cause was the frame. Is your guide available in the OP? I assumed the tape fix was generally the cause as it's available there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppelin2k*
> 
> So, I'm reaaally tempted to pick up one of these QNIX monitors. I love that it can OC to 96hz or more, and I'm excited to try out 1440p. I know everyone is in love with the screens, but I'm a little worried about the color quality. Specifically, the TFT review here mentions an awfully poor black level, which is something I've heard before. In fact it seems to be the worst among the monitors compared. A good black level is something I value quite highly, and this is really worrisome. Do color profiles remedy this a bit?
> 
> The screen also does use PWM dimming.. anyone have a problem with it on this particular monitor? Basically, I need to be reconvinced to purchase this. I really wouldn't mind paying another $200-300 for perfect black levels, colors, etc, but then I would lose the OC ability. Thoughts? Are the black levels really that bad?


Be warned that the TFT review you linked concerns the QX2710 LED Evolution II *DPmulti TRUE10*! This is not the monitor this thread recommends, and my understanding is that it has numerous issues that the QX2710 LED Evolution II doesn't have. The DPmulti TRUE10 doesn't overclock (it only skips frames), and from the reviews I've read, its color quality seems to be below that of the QX2710 LED Evolution II. In the TFT review you linked, have a look at the introduction. An image displays the specs of three monitors. The one you want is the leftmost one









Anyway, I received my X-Star yesterday







I've installed it and so far everything is working pretty well! It has no dead pixels and no or very low BLB (I couldn't really see any, but I'll try to take a picture today). The stand is, as expected, pretty ****. Another one is one the way. I haven't tried OCing the thing just yet, as I wanted a control of how it performs with my graphics card at the moment. It seems to be doing pretty well; usage is a little bit higher, but not more than I expected. For what it's worth, shipping in my case was very fast. It was four days to arrive: Busan -> Incheon -> Anchorage -> Memphis -> Mirabel (Montreal), and I picked up the package at the airport. Meanwhile the stand hasn't even made the route from Tucson to Kentucky, where it is shipped to me using the eBay global shipping system (which I understand is pretty awful







)


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> *this one* seemingly ships to Egypt, but the price is much more. You may be able to find a cheaper one with a more thorough search.
> 
> edit: just did a quick search for qnix version and it seems there are tons that ship to egypt... or at least it doesn't say they don't. *this*, *this*, and *this*.


i wish i can give u +100000 rep


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppelin2k*
> 
> So, I'm reaaally tempted to pick up one of these QNIX monitors. I love that it can OC to 96hz or more, and I'm excited to try out 1440p. I know everyone is in love with the screens, but I'm a little worried about the color quality. Specifically, the TFT review here mentions an awfully poor black level, which is something I've heard before. In fact it seems to be the worst among the monitors compared. A good black level is something I value quite highly, and this is really worrisome. Do color profiles remedy this a bit?
> 
> The screen also does use PWM dimming.. anyone have a problem with it on this particular monitor? Basically, I need to be reconvinced to purchase this. I really wouldn't mind paying another $200-300 for perfect black levels, colors, etc, but then I would lose the OC ability. Thoughts? Are the black levels really that bad?


The Qnix QX2710 uses a Samsung PLS panel and the out of the box colors at 60hz are among the best you can get on any panel out there!....At 60hz the colors are so good that you can not really improve it using a colorimeter and calibrate it! ...The link that you provided from TFT Central is the not the Qnix QX2710 which is what 99.9% of all people in this thread have bought and want because of the great colors and its ability to overclock!..The link you provided is a review of the Qnix true 10 which uses an AU Optronics AHVA panel!...Also the Qnix true 10 does not overclock even though Qnix clams that it does....If you set anything over 60hz on the Qnix true 10 it skips frames which means it can not overclock!

Also the Qnix QX2710 does not use PWM dimming....I suggest that you read about the Qnix QX2710 that we are using all using here and you can not get a more in-depth review on it than the review done by NCX which you can find here


----------



## Boosterfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The Qnix QX2710 uses a Samsung PLS panel and the out of the box colors at 60hz are among the best you can get on any panel out there!....At 60hz the colors are so good that you can not really improve it using a colorimeter and calibrate it! ...The link that you provided from TFT Central is the not the Qnix QX2710 which is what 99.9% of all people in this thread have bought and want because of the great colors and its ability to overclock!..The link you provided is a review of the Qnix true 10 which uses an AU Optronics AHVA panel!...Also the Qnix true 10 does not overclock even though Qnix clams that it does....If you set anything over 60hz on the Qnix true 10 it skips frames which means it can not overclock!
> 
> Also the Qnix QX2710 does not use PWM dimming....I suggest that you read about the Qnix QX2710 that we are using all using here and you can not get a more in-depth review on it than the review done by NCX which you can find here


I don't know why but it seems numerous review websites took a very long time to review any korean monitors at all, and when they did, they only reviewed the "new" AHVA ones, which are pretty awful. Anandtech made the same mistake. The comments on that review consisted pretty much only of people complaining that they had reviewed the incorrect monitor! I have nothing against them reviewing the AHVA monitor, but they should review the PLS one was well


----------



## SinfulRoad

Although this isn't confirmed (I've done this with 2 computers so far) installing the latest AMD Catalyst 14.6 Beta and overclocking our monitors (if you're on this thread, you should be,) using the atimkdag patcher and CRU is giving me blue screens on both the computers, just a warning. Pretty sure it's not the patcher because I can patch just fine, restart and the computer is golden. However restarting fresh with CRU, after using lawson67's profile for 110 hz (the gpu downclockable one), upon a restart the computers blue screen saying the atimkdag.sys is the culprit. Just fair warning.


----------



## seanp2501

updated to latest nvidia without too much issue though one may want to disconnect and connect to vga or secondary monitor...loving 1440p gaming


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Although this isn't confirmed (I've done this with 2 computers so far) installing the latest AMD Catalyst 14.6 Beta and overclocking our monitors (if you're on this thread, you should be,) using the atimkdag patcher and CRU is giving me blue screens on both the computers, just a warning. Pretty sure it's not the patcher because I can patch just fine, restart and the computer is golden. However restarting fresh with CRU, after using lawson67's profile for 110 hz (the gpu downclockable one), upon a restart the computers blue screen saying the atimkdag.sys is the culprit. Just fair warning.


Hmm sounds strange and sounds like a driver bug in the beta drivers as this should not happen!...In CRU have you moved the 110hz custom resolution above the 60hz default resolution?...And if so can you move it below so that your PC can boot up using the default 60hz resolution...Also if you can boot up using these new beta drivers without any EDID overrides at 60hz then you should also be able to boot up at 60hz weather there are custom EDID overrides or not...

Have you tried running the reset-all.exe that came in the zip file that you downloaded CRU in?...Then rebooting and installing the new drivers... and then reboot again and then patching them and then move to CRU to create new overrides.... and then reboot again


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Although this isn't confirmed (I've done this with 2 computers so far) installing the latest AMD Catalyst 14.6 Beta and overclocking our monitors (if you're on this thread, you should be,) using the atimkdag patcher and CRU is giving me blue screens on both the computers, just a warning. Pretty sure it's not the patcher because I can patch just fine, restart and the computer is golden. However restarting fresh with CRU, after using lawson67's profile for 110 hz (the gpu downclockable one), upon a restart the computers blue screen saying the atimkdag.sys is the culprit. Just fair warning.


Worked ok fo rme, but when the patcher runs it does say multiple instances of something is found which isn't normal. So something has changed in the 14.6's. I did run the patcher twice though, sometimes that helps so I always do it.


----------



## zeppelin2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> Be warned that the TFT review you linked concerns the QX2710 LED Evolution II *DPmulti TRUE10*! This is not the monitor this thread recommends, and my understanding is that it has numerous issues that the QX2710 LED Evolution II doesn't have. The DPmulti TRUE10 doesn't overclock (it only skips frames), and from the reviews I've read, its color quality seems to be below that of the QX2710 LED Evolution II. In the TFT review you linked, have a look at the introduction. An image displays the specs of three monitors. The one you want is the leftmost one


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The Qnix QX2710 uses a Samsung PLS panel and the out of the box colors at 60hz are among the best you can get on any panel out there!....At 60hz the colors are so good that you can not really improve it using a colorimeter and calibrate it! ...The link that you provided from TFT Central is the not the Qnix QX2710 which is what 99.9% of all people in this thread have bought and want because of the great colors and its ability to overclock!..The link you provided is a review of the Qnix true 10 which uses an AU Optronics AHVA panel!...Also the Qnix true 10 does not overclock even though Qnix clams that it does....If you set anything over 60hz on the Qnix true 10 it skips frames which means it can not overclock!
> 
> Also the Qnix QX2710 does not use PWM dimming....I suggest that you read about the Qnix QX2710 that we are using all using here and you can not get a more in-depth review on it than the review done by NCX which you can find here


I was actually aware that the link I provided was a different (the multi-input) monitor, but I did not realize the panels were so different. I assumed the slightly different model would be pretty much identical other than the input lag and ghosting, but it seems I was very wrong. Is the newer version a cheaper model that QNIX is trying to push, riding on the popularity of the original QX2710? Regardless, thank you for that other review Lawson. It pretty much confirms that the real QNIX really is the stellar monitor that everyone here is in love with.

With that said, where do I buy this thing? The typical seller, green-sum has it for $329, while accessorieswhole has it for a cheaper $289. I really don't mind paying the extra if green-sum is known to be more reliable, and provide better panels overall. I'm just not sure if there's any difference between the sellers. Thanks all.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hmm sounds strange and sounds like a driver bug in the beta drivers as this should not happen!...In CRU have you moved the 110hz custom resolution above the 60hz default resolution?...And if so can you move it below so that your PC can boot up using the default 60hz resolution...Also if you can boot up using these new beta drivers without any EDID overrides at 60hz then you should also be able to boot up at 60hz weather there are custom EDID overrides or not...
> 
> Have you tried running the reset-all.exe that came in the zip file that you downloaded CRU in?...Then rebooting and installing the new drivers... and then reboot again and then patching them and then move to CRU to create new overrides.... and then reboot again


So yeah, let me clarify. I can install the driver cleanly, no problem. No blue screen at all. At first during the morning, I did the patching all fine and dandy (like the the9quad said about the multiple instances being present). I then preceeded by restarting, no problem, so I would use CRU (I always reset with CRU by the way) and use your 110 hz profile. At first I put it above the default and I got the blue screen (saying SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION (atikmdag.sys)). So I actually did what you said for the second time, I used the default profile and put the 110 hz profile below it. Same blue screen. Now that I got home from work, I tried to do it again, using your suggested method, and instead of being able to get to the point of using CRU, after patching and restarting, I'm now getting the same blue screen. No CRU involved this time at all. It's very strange, I'd certainly like to have more frames in Watch Dogs, it's so unoptimized, it's laughable.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

So, after exactly one week, the echeck cleared.

Now I wait for the obligatory e-mail from Dream-Seller telling me about the awesome free upgrade to the multi-input model that I will obviously decline.


----------



## hambone96

My X-star DP2710LED just came in today! Plugged it in at lunch to make sure it worked, but havn't played around with it yet.

No noticeable backlight bleed! Havn't checked for dead or stuck pixels yet though!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> So yeah, let me clarify. I can install the driver cleanly, no problem. No blue screen at all. At first during the morning, I did the patching all fine and dandy (like the the9quad said about the multiple instances being present). I then preceeded by restarting, no problem, so I would use CRU (I always reset with CRU by the way) and use your 110 hz profile. At first I put it above the default and I got the blue screen (saying SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION (atikmdag.sys)). So I actually did what you said for the second time, I used the default profile and put the 110 hz profile below it. Same blue screen. Now that I got home from work, I tried to do it again, using your suggested method, and instead of being able to get to the point of using CRU, after patching and restarting, I'm now getting the same blue screen. No CRU involved this time at all. It's very strange, I'd certainly like to have more frames in Watch Dogs, it's so unoptimized, it's laughable.


Yeah so its not CRU or my timings then and some other problem with the new driver 14.6 beta drivers!....The timings are not driver dependent and should work for all drivers future and past!...Did you use DDU in safe made to uninstall the other drivers before you upgraded to the beta 14.6?....Maybe you have some old crap left over from the other drivers coursing a conflict?....Also Toasyx might need to update his patch for the new drivers and if this is the case i am sure he will do this very soon!


----------



## Mcdoorknob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Although this isn't confirmed (I've done this with 2 computers so far) installing the latest AMD Catalyst 14.6 Beta and overclocking our monitors (if you're on this thread, you should be,) using the atimkdag patcher and CRU is giving me blue screens on both the computers, just a warning. Pretty sure it's not the patcher because I can patch just fine, restart and the computer is golden. However restarting fresh with CRU, after using lawson67's profile for 110 hz (the gpu downclockable one), upon a restart the computers blue screen saying the atimkdag.sys is the culprit. Just fair warning.


I'm getting the same blue screens. Happens seconds every time after I sign into Windows. I can only get on in safe mode. How can I undo what the patch did? I am unable to uninstall the drives because it says cannot detect hardware every time and closes. The patch says it's updated for 14.6, but I guess not, in my case


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yeah so its not CRU or my timings then and some other problem with the new driver 14.6 beta drivers!....The timings are not driver dependent and should work for all drivers future and past!...Did you use DDU in safe made to uninstall the other drivers before you upgraded to the beta 14.6?....Maybe you have some old crap left over from the other drivers coursing a conflict?....Also Toasyx might need to update his patch for the new drivers and if this is the case i am sure he will do very soon!


Yeah so I used the most recent version of DDU in safemode the first time. I then did it the old fashioned way, no difference. I really do think it's the patcher, and if it is, I'll just wait.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mcdoorknob*
> 
> I'm getting the same blue screens. Happens seconds every time after I sign into Windows. I can only get on in safe mode. How can I undo what the patch did? I am unable to uninstall the drives because it says cannot detect hardware every time and closes. The patch says it's updated for 14.6, but I guess not, in my case


Well, at least it's not just me and it does seem it's the patch. To undo the patch, just restore from a restore point. I always create a manual restore point when I'm updating important stuff like drivers.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mcdoorknob*
> 
> I'm getting the same blue screens. Happens seconds every time after I sign into Windows. I can only get on in safe mode. How can I undo what the patch did? I am unable to uninstall the drives because it says cannot detect hardware every time and closes. The patch says it's updated for 14.6, but I guess not, in my case


To undo what the patch did you need to re-run the patch and choose restore from back up!...or just reinstall the drivers...Also the patch does not say its updated for 14.6!.... On toastyx site it says,...

*Compatibility:
Version 1.2.4 is compatible with Catalyst 11.9 to 14.4. It can be used with future versions if it finds all the limits.*

Also I have not upgraded to the beta drivers so i don't know if it finds all the limits.


----------



## moonkikang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppelin2k*
> 
> With that said, where do I buy this thing? The typical seller, green-sum has it for $329, while accessorieswhole has it for a cheaper $289. I really don't mind paying the extra if green-sum is known to be more reliable, and provide better panels overall. I'm just not sure if there's any difference between the sellers. Thanks all.


No difference between green-sum and acessorieswhole. I know both sellers, and you'll get the same product regardless of who you order from. Also the QX2710 monitors produced on April 19th and after (check the back of the monitor) are the best 'build quality' I've seen so far. Nearly no issues.

Also no seller can really provide better panels overall. There is only one distributor of QX2710 Matte monitors in all of South Korea-- every seller carries the same stock.


----------



## Jeffro422

Just got an Xstar DP2710LED from dreamseller. Loaded up an ICC profile and this thing looks awesome. Very impressed.


----------



## zeppelin2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> No difference between green-sum and acessorieswhole. I know both sellers, and you'll get the same product regardless of who you order from. Also the QX2710 monitors produced on April 19th and after (check the back of the monitor) are the best 'build quality' I've seen so far. Nearly no issues.
> 
> Also no seller can really provide better panels overall. There is only one distributor of QX2710 Matte monitors in all of South Korea-- every seller carries the same stock.


Good to know, thanks. I'll stick with the cheaper one then. I suppose there's no way to know the production date of the monitors before I buy, is there? Is it worth asking the seller, or are most of them these days produced after April (2013 or 2014?)?


----------



## themyst

Is it me, or does the Qnix 96hz ICC profile make your monitor greenish? Maybe i'm just so used to the default cool color profile but i think it looks better. *shrug*


----------



## themyst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> No difference between green-sum and acessorieswhole. I know both sellers, and you'll get the same product regardless of who you order from. Also the QX2710 monitors produced on April 19th and after (check the back of the monitor) are the best 'build quality' I've seen so far. Nearly no issues.
> 
> Also no seller can really provide better panels overall. There is only one distributor of QX2710 Matte monitors in all of South Korea-- every seller carries the same stock.


I got a March build X-star last week, no dead pixels, no backlight bleeding (at all!) no panel play. I have a spot on the monitor that is dull only on pure green, but not worth shipping it back over and I'm being really nitpicky about it.


----------



## Forceman

Does anyone else's monitor have a small gap across the top where there is no picture? Both of mine have had it, but I can't tell if it's just the panel being not quite centered in the bezel, or if maybe there is a overscan/underscan kind of issue with my card (which seems unlikely). At the bottom the picture goes pretty much all the way to the bezel, but there is about a 2mm gap at the top.

Edit: Just noticed that the gap is larger on the left than the right, so it must just be the panel isn't centered. Although it looks even on the bottom, but maybe that's because it goes under the bezel.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Well then, that's a nice surprise.

I ordered the Matte Non-PP single-input Qnix from Dream-Seller last Wednesday, the Paypal echeck cleared yesterday (Tuesday), and some time in the past hour I received an e-mail saying it's shipped and I have a tracking number.

I was expecting to get an email about the awesome free multi-input 'upgrade', no complaints here though, that means it'll get here quicker.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221203079356


----------



## andygully

Is the amd patcher working with 14.6beta driver release?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> Is the amd patcher working with 14.6beta driver release?


Yes and no, it through a out a error, but I was still able to overclock. Another user here got blue screens, possibly related.


----------



## Perseides

I'd just bought an X-star QX2710 and received it today.

To my horror.....



And upon opening the box, there is a bad scratch on the screen..











which is worse if the screen is on....


I'm quite sure the damage is caused by Fedex, which they are still investigating. However its heartbroken to see a such a deep scratch on the screen. T.T

EDIT: Cleanup post.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Wow, looks more like someone stabbed it at an angle. I think what's even worse is how long you waited, then the wait to get your money back, and then a replacement.

Not only is there a scratch, but the general vicinity of that that scratch appears to be warped, look @ the screen moire and the horizontal line near the bottom of your mouse cursor, as in the bottom of the toolbar.

This motivates me to attempt to be home when it's delivered and to check the box before the FedEx person leaves.


----------



## Boosterfire

Well, I've got my X-Star OCed to 110Hz and 120Hz. Both seem to be pretty stable for now, but of course I guess I won't know for a few hours!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perseides*
> 
> I'd just bought an X-star QX2710 and received it today.
> 
> To my horror.....
> 
> *snip*
> 
> And upon opening the box, there is a bad scratch on the screen..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> which is worse if the screen is on....
> *snip*
> 
> I'm quite sure the damage is caused by Fedex, which they are still investigating. However its heartbroken to see a such a deep scratch on the screen. T.T
> 
> EDIT: Cleanup post.


Aw that's a shame! It does look like shipping damage; hopefully Fedex will refund.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Wow, looks more like someone stabbed it at an angle. I think what's even worse is how long you waited, then the wait to get your money back, and then a replacement.
> 
> Not only is there a scratch, but the general vicinity of that that scratch appears to be warped, look @ the screen moire and the horizontal line near the bottom of your mouse cursor, as in the bottom of the toolbar.
> 
> This motivates me to attempt to be home when it's delivered and to check the box before the FedEx person leaves.


You would need to sign the delivery anyway, no (unless you specifically allowed them to leave it anyway)? I'm never home when the delivery truck comes by, and I pretty much always pick up my packages at the Fedex location, so I can verify the integrity of it when taking possession of the box. That's what I'd recommend.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> You would need to sign the delivery anyway, no (unless you specifically allowed them to leave it anyway)? I'm never home when the delivery truck comes by, and I pretty much always pick up my packages at the Fedex location, so I can verify the integrity of it when taking possession of the box. That's what I'd recommend.


I always leave a note giving permission to leave packages on my doorstep, or are you stating that the sellers (or us) actually paid for signature confirmation ?

I've never dealt with FedEx before.


----------



## Perseides

I'm not sure who / how are the seller/ Fedex going to compensate it. Called up Fedex and they told me if there is any payment for the damage to the good, it will be between the seller and them, which means the compensation will be paid to the seller not me.

I'm still awaiting further reply from both Fedex and the seller. Anyhow have any suggestion on how should I proceed? Will Ebay able to help in this kind of problem if the seller / Fedex unwilling to compensate or under compensate me? I do hope I'm not stuck with a damaged monitor. =(


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perseides*
> 
> I'm not sure who / how are the seller/ Fedex going to compensate it. Called up Fedex and they told me if there is any payment for the damage to the good, it will be between the seller and them, which means the compensation will be paid to the seller not me.
> 
> I'm still awaiting further reply from both Fedex and the seller. Anyhow have any suggestion on how should I proceed? Will Ebay able to help in this kind of problem if the seller / Fedex unwilling to compensate or under compensate me? I do hope I'm not stuck with a damaged monitor. =(


The first thing i would do is open a case with Ebay straight away and contact the seller and tell him that you want a replacement...I think most sellers will only pay return shipping in the first 2 weeks that you have received the monitor.......Regardless of who fault it is....*Its not your fault* so inform Ebay ASAP "like right now" and tell the seller its arrived damaged and you want a replacment.....just cover your own ass mate

BTW my monitor arrived with 2 layers of bubble wrap over the box...Your seller did not adequately package the item....Thats what i would be telling Ebay and the seller


----------



## MLJS54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The first thing i would do is open a case with Ebay straight away and contact the seller and tell him that you want a replacement...I think most sellers will only pay return shipping in the first 2 weeks that you have received the monitor.......Regardless of who fault it is....*Its not your fault* so inform Ebay ASAP "like right now" and tell the seller its arrived damaged and you want a replacment.....just cover your own ass mate


+1 Contact eBay ASAP and do everything through them. If you're not satisfied with how the case is going make sure not to agree to the seller's proposals and let eBay decide the dispute. 9 times out of 10 they will side with the buyer and refund you the money. You also should not have to pay return shipping of any sort.


----------



## BlayZin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I very much doubt your will fix you BLB by removing the bezel and trying to put pressure here and there on the panel while it is sat in the metal frame...This generally just moves the BLB from one area of the screen to another...Try to read my guide in the link in the post above it is not a hard job to fix this 100% and it only took me 25- 30mins to strip down repair and refit the panel back in the case


Thanks for your Reply.
Though I have some Questions to you:

1. -before you fixed your BLB, did you try to push on some Points to see if the BLB would lessen for the duration of the push?
-And if so what was the outcome?
-Did it really lessen or did the BLB getting stronger by pushing?

2. More or less to everyone here. I did read somewhere about the qnix having retention when overclocked. Is this true though?

The reason why I ask the first Question is, that I want to know if I can even fix my BLB by straightening.

Sorry for my awkward english though ^^


----------



## Boosterfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I always leave a note giving permission to leave packages on my doorstep, or are you stating that the sellers (or us) actually paid for signature confirmation ?
> 
> I've never dealt with FedEx before.


I was referring to that note yes. Personally there's no way I would allow Fedex (or others) to leave package at my doorstep. I don't live in a particularly theft prone province or city, but I just wouldn't be comfortable with the idea. Besides, what's the worst that can happen if you're not there? You'll just have to pick up the package manually, which isn't really a big deal (unless it's very far away, I guess).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The first thing i would do is open a case with Ebay straight away and contact the seller and tell him that you want a replacement...I think most sellers will only pay return shipping in the first 2 weeks that you have received the monitor.......Regardless of who fault it is....*Its not your fault* so inform Ebay ASAP "like right now" and tell the seller its arrived damaged and you want a replacment.....just cover your own ass mate
> 
> BTW my monitor arrived with 2 layers of bubble wrap over the box...Your seller did not adequately package the item....Thats what i would be telling Ebay and the seller


My monitor didn't have any bubble wrap. I guess I was lucky. I suspect it wouldn't necessarily have helped in this case, though. The damage looks to have been made with a stabbing motion. The bubble warp would probably have been pierced.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlayZin*
> 
> Thanks for your Reply.
> Though I have some Questions to you:
> 
> 1. -before you fixed your BLB, did you try to push on some Points to see if the BLB would lessen for the duration of the push?
> -And if so what was the outcome?
> -Did it really lessen or did the BLB getting stronger by pushing?
> 
> 2. More or less to everyone here. I did read somewhere about the qnix having retention when overclocked. Is this true though?
> 
> The reason why I ask the first Question is, that I want to know if I can even fix my BLB by straightening.
> 
> Sorry for my awkward english though ^^


Hi BlayZin yes i did what i could before i striped the monitor down and fixed the fame...I did put pressure here and there with the bezel off on the panel with tape balls i rolled up in a vein attempt to try and lessen the BLB!....However this generally just moves the BLB to another area of the screen as you are creating more pressure in another area of the screen to lessen the BLB in one area yet you are now creating more pressure in another area....

Some have lessened there BLB doing this however you will never fully cure it! ...At this point it becomes clear that you must live with your BLB which some can do and some may of lessened there BLB and are happy with there result or if you are like me then you want it perfect!...And that means a strip down which of course is what i did and it really is not a hard job at all and only took me 25-30 mins!

Yes these panels can get image retention when they are overclocked if you leave your screen on with a static background...However i found setting a full white back ground for 10 mins will remove it or dropping to 60hz for 20 mins will cure it...

To be honest i don't really get now as i have set a screen saver to kick in after 10 mins if i have not moved the mouse for 10 mins..I use the windows ribbon screen saver which works perfectly and i have left the screen on for an hour or so with the ribbons screen saver going and have not seen any image retention since i use this method


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> I was referring to that note yes. Personally there's no way I would allow Fedex (or others) to leave package at my doorstep. I don't live in a particularly theft prone province or city, but I just wouldn't be comfortable with the idea. Besides, what's the worst that can happen if you're not there? You'll just have to pick up the package manually, which isn't really a big deal (unless it's very far away, I guess).


You have no idea how impatient and lazy I am, I don't deny it, I'm pretty blunt. Also, where I moved to almost 1 year ago is quite a ways away from the FedEx hub/warehouse, or w/e you want to call it.

I checked before your response and it simply needs an indirect signature, and you can also authorize the release via a note as long as it contains the signature of the recipient. I've been doing this with UPS for a long time. I just thought perhaps this required a direct signature, but I doubt it did since no one's mentioned it, and I thought FedEx might have different policies.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> My monitor didn't have any bubble wrap. I guess I was lucky. I suspect it wouldn't necessarily have helped in this case, though. The damage looks to have been made with a stabbing motion. The bubble warp would probably have been pierced.


Yes i agree however i would be telling Ebay that it should of been packaged better...I would be doing everything i could to ensure that i was not stuck with that monitor and i most certainly would not want to end up in a debate over whos fault it was as regards FED-EX....I would only deal with Ebay from now on calming that it clearly was not adequately package and that is the reason it arrived damaged....Which it clearly did.


----------



## ShortThug

So I received my QNIX yesterday and was just wondering if anybody else's monitor's LED light blinks red when the computer is sleeping or turned off. It's blue when on; blinking red when on standby; and completely dark when I turn the monitor off. I had read from others that it's supposed to be flashing blue when on standby so I wasn't sure if this was maybe just a recent change to the standby light or if something's actually wrong with the monitor.


----------



## hambone96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortThug*
> 
> So I received mine yesterday and was just wondering if anybody else's monitor's LED light blinks red when the computer is sleeping or turned off. It's blue when on; blinking red when on standby; and completely dark when I turn the monitor off. I had read from others that it's supposed to be flashing blue when on standby so I wasn't sure if this was maybe just a recent change to the standby light or if something's actually wrong with the monitor.


I just got my X-Star, it does the same as yours so I think its normal.


----------



## seanp2501

honestly i think when you have blb the first thing you should do is just take it apart and then reseat it sorta. I had some minor bleed which is gone after installing my stand...


----------



## ThePowerFalcon

Hey Guys,
Left for work today and came home to an X-Star from DreamSeller that won't turn on. Ordered it in January and it's been working fine until today. Right now the power indicator light isn't showing that it is getting any power. I have it plugged into a Belkin Surge Protector and everything else that is plugged in is running fine. So far I have tried the following-

Unplugging it and plugging it back in.
Plugging it into another outlet.

Honestly, as of right now, I don't know if it's my monitor or my adapter and I'm not really sure of what steps to take next. Here is a picture of my adapter-


http://imgur.com/ggOZPMX

I bought a US plug for the adapter.

Should I just get a new adapter? Are these monitors or adapters known to die at all? Please HELP!

Also, I found this thread- http://www.overclock.net/t/1275958/important-korean-monitor-power-announcement but am not sure what to make of it


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThePowerFalcon*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> Left for work today and came home to an X-Star from DreamSeller that won't turn on. Ordered it in January and it's been working fine until today. Right now the power indicator light isn't showing that it is getting any power. I have it plugged into a Belkin Surge Protector and everything else that is plugged in is running fine. So far I have tried the following-
> 
> Unplugging it and plugging it back in.
> Plugging it into another outlet.
> 
> Honestly, as of right now, I don't know if it's my monitor or my adapter and I'm not really sure of what steps to take next. Here is a picture of my adapter-
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ggOZPMX
> 
> I bought a US plug for the adapter.
> 
> Should I just get a new adapter? Are these monitors or adapters known to die at all? Please HELP!
> 
> Also, I found this thread- http://www.overclock.net/t/1275958/important-korean-monitor-power-announcement but am not sure what to make of it


Most likely your power brick has given up on you...Do own a multimeter?...If you do check to see what the voltage is if any coming out the end of it....I replaced my power brick when my monitor arrived sometime ago as it was getting to hot so i replaced it with a CWT (Channel Well Technology) power brick linked below they are the OEM makers for Corsair power supply's!... I want a nice clean supply of power going to my monitor...I have been caught out in the past with crap power supply's....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-CWT-12V-5A-60W-Power-Supply-P-N-CAD060121-For-TVs-/390276288001


----------



## ThePowerFalcon

Thank you for the quick response! I don't have a multimeter, but plan on getting one soon.

Do you have a recommended brand that I could order from within the U.S.(to avoid international shipping fees)?

Would something like this work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-5A-60W-100-240-V-DC-Power-Supply-Adapter-For-LED-Strip-5050-3528-RGB-Gift-/221224244276?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item3381fe1434


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThePowerFalcon*
> 
> Thank you for the quick response! I don't have a multimeter, but plan on getting one soon.
> 
> Do you have a recommended brand that I could order from within the U.S.(to avoid international shipping fees)?
> 
> Would something like this work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-5A-60W-100-240-V-DC-Power-Supply-Adapter-For-LED-Strip-5050-3528-RGB-Gift-/221224244276?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item3381fe1434


Yes the one you picked looks fine or there is this one below that is a copy of the CWT in the U.S.A

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa


----------



## ThePowerFalcon

Ordered it. Should arrive next Tuesday. Thanks again! +100 internet points


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> So yeah, let me clarify. I can install the driver cleanly, no problem. No blue screen at all. At first during the morning, I did the patching all fine and dandy (like the the9quad said about the multiple instances being present). I then preceeded by restarting, no problem, so I would use CRU (I always reset with CRU by the way) and use your 110 hz profile. At first I put it above the default and I got the blue screen (saying SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION (atikmdag.sys)).


The BSoD seems to be triggered by the same protection mechanism that affects video acceleration, which means ANY change to the driver triggers the problem. If the problem is happening when Windows starts, then you probably have something running on startup that uses video acceleration such as Skype. Skype doesn't seem to have a way to turn off video acceleration, so it can't be used with 14.6 if the driver is patched.

If this change becomes permanent and I can't find a way to work around the problem, then 14.4 will become the last supported version for the patcher. The current patcher can still be used with 14.6 if you avoid all video acceleration. The extra values it finds seem to be related to HDMI and shouldn't cause problems. I may release an update to fix the found values, but that won't help with the blue screens.

There may be other triggers as well because I also got the SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION blue screen while the driver was installing, which was before I even had a chance to patch the driver.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mcdoorknob*
> 
> I'm getting the same blue screens. Happens seconds every time after I sign into Windows. I can only get on in safe mode. How can I undo what the patch did? I am unable to uninstall the drives because it says cannot detect hardware every time and closes. The patch says it's updated for 14.6, but I guess not, in my case


You can run the patcher again in safe mode to restore the unpatched driver. You can also use DDU in safe mode to uninstall the driver: http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> The BSoD seems to be triggered by the same protection mechanism that affects video acceleration, which means ANY change to the driver triggers the problem. If the problem is happening when Windows starts, then you probably have something running on startup that uses video acceleration such as Skype. Skype doesn't seem to have a way to turn off video acceleration, so it can't be used with 14.6 if the driver is patched.
> 
> If this change becomes permanent and I can't find a way to work around the problem, then 14.4 will become the last supported version for the patcher. The current patcher can still be used with 14.6 if you avoid all video acceleration. The extra values it finds seem to be related to HDMI and shouldn't cause problems. I may release an update to fix the found values, but that won't help with the blue screens.
> 
> There may be other triggers as well because I also got the SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION blue screen while the driver was installing, which was before I even had a chance to patch the driver.
> You can run the patcher again in safe mode to restore the unpatched driver. You can also use DDU in safe mode to uninstall the driver: http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/


Well that is quite depressing to hear. I tried it again with no Skype installed and it still blue screened.


----------



## Kokin

If you use older versions of Skype, it doesn't have video acceleration in the login screen. I use 6.3 since the newer ones sometimes corrupt my monitor with the login screen.


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> The BSoD seems to be triggered by the same protection mechanism that affects video acceleration, which means ANY change to the driver triggers the problem. If the problem is happening when Windows starts, then you probably have something running on startup that uses video acceleration such as Skype. Skype doesn't seem to have a way to turn off video acceleration, so it can't be used with 14.6 if the driver is patched.
> 
> If this change becomes permanent and I can't find a way to work around the problem, then 14.4 will become the last supported version for the patcher. The current patcher can still be used with 14.6 if you avoid all video acceleration. The extra values it finds seem to be related to HDMI and shouldn't cause problems. I may release an update to fix the found values, but that won't help with the blue screens.
> 
> There may be other triggers as well because I also got the SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION blue screen while the driver was installing, which was before I even had a chance to patch the driver.
> You can run the patcher again in safe mode to restore the unpatched driver. You can also use DDU in safe mode to uninstall the driver: http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/


I didn't experience Skype or any other application to cause BSOD's with a patched 14.6 Driver. I originally did a clean uninstall of the 14.4 Drivers, (Windows 8.1 Pro 64-Bit) and then installed the new beta 14.6. Immediately I got a black screen ~3 seconds after I hit the desktop after login. I tried Safe mode and I was fine, but I hate finicky OS's so I did a clean install using "Windows 8.1 Pro x64 (With Update)" and then promptly installed 14.6 Beta, patched it, Used CRU to OC to 120Hz, And used Color Sustainer for my .icc. This round was flawless, I was able to install all my chipset drivers and everything needed to begin playing games. Things at this point were perfect, the old issue i had with the 120hz OC reverting at boot is GONE, so that's nice.

Next I installed Watch Dogs. I Have a 4770k @ 4.2 Ghz, 16GB Ram, and a 290x. The game played much better than it did on 14.4 on the old install (Minor performance benifits can be attributed to less processes running b/c clean install)

I get 55-70 FPS when walking around or fighting in the game, but when I hop in a car I drop to 40-50 FPS. When driving and accelerating I see it go as low as 30FPS but it hops back up to 40-50 soon after.

But hey... Not bad for 1440p on day one!

On the old install I got 3 full on crashes working my way through Act 1, while on the new OS using 14.6 Beta and all the bells and whistles enabled, I got not a single crash or even a hint of unreliability.

I know I'm actually an outlier here because everybody else is having issues piled upon themselves, but if you are willing to try a fresh install, it could help. Install your system drivers slowly and methodically, It pays off. If you have the time you could even go as far as updating your motherboard bios/gpu firmware to ensure the best compatibility and snag some extra performance along the way.

If you have questions about my configuration let me know, I want others to be able to use the new drivers as well.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> The BSoD seems to be triggered by the same protection mechanism that affects video acceleration, which means ANY change to the driver triggers the problem. If the problem is happening when Windows starts, then you probably have something running on startup that uses video acceleration such as Skype. Skype doesn't seem to have a way to turn off video acceleration, so it can't be used with 14.6 if the driver is patched.
> 
> If this change becomes permanent and I can't find a way to work around the problem, then 14.4 will become the last supported version for the patcher. The current patcher can still be used with 14.6 if you avoid all video acceleration. The extra values it finds seem to be related to HDMI and shouldn't cause problems. I may release an update to fix the found values, but that won't help with the blue screens.
> 
> There may be other triggers as well because I also got the SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION blue screen while the driver was installing, which was before I even had a chance to patch the driver.
> You can run the patcher again in safe mode to restore the unpatched driver. You can also use DDU in safe mode to uninstall the driver: http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Well that is quite depressing to hear. I tried it again with no Skype installed and it still blue screened.


Yes that would be very depressing news indeed!...However i truly believe that ToasyX will find a way to work around this AMD driver problem!...And i also believe that maybe its time that all the people who love there QNIX and X-Star monitors running as smooth as silk up to120hz as much as i do show toastyX just how much we appreciate all of the free time and effort that he puts into supporting this community!

The Qnix...X-Star...and Catleap monitors have all become much sort after monitors because they are all capable of overclocking up to 120hz!...Because of one man ToastyX... None of these monitors would have the same significance if it was not for ToastyX!....This community would not exist if it was not for Toastyx!.....It is because of ToastyX that we are all here in this thread discussing how much we are all enjoying our monitors and what we are using our 120hz PLS / IPS monitors for!....We all no that you can not even buy a main steam IPS /PLS 120hz capable monitor!...Without ToastyX IPS /PLS 120hz monitors do not exist!...Without ToastyX only far less superior 120hz TN panels exist in the main stream market!

Without Toastyx and his nvlddmkm-patcher.exe *no* Nvidia cards would not be able to push there monitors past 96hz and that's only a select few as most would not be able to overclock there monitors at all without the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe...Also Without toastyX and his nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe *no* Nvidia SLI user would ever be able to overclock there monitors at all!...And without without ToasyX and his atikmdag-patcher.exe *no* AMD/ATI cards would be able to overclock there monitors at all!...And without toastyX Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) *no* AMD / ATI user would be able to create *any* custom resolutions!

I hope ToastyX does not mind me blowing his whistle for him but i think its about time that everyone knew just how important ToastyX is to this community!....Without him it simply would not exist!...I believe that its about time that people showed Toasty just how much they appreciate all his hard work especially the the AMD/ATI card users in fact everyone and i feel sure with support of the community that he built behind him he will Find a solution patching the new AMD Eyefinity Drivers so that we can all enjoy our monitors from now and into the future!

Please Donate to ToastyX and show him how much you appreciate all of the hard work and free time he has put into to *our* community for free!.....Please click on the link below to go to toastyX site and you will find his Donation link 3 Sentences down.....I know i have just donated to toastyX!...And it is not my first time!

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher?page=1


----------



## BlayZin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Hi BlayZin yes i did what i could before i striped the monitor down and fixed the fame...I did put pressure here and there with the bezel off on the panel with tape balls i rolled up in a vein attempt to try and lessen the BLB!....However this generally just moves the BLB to another area of the screen as you are creating more pressure in another area of the screen to lessen the BLB in one area yet you are now creating more pressure in another area....
> 
> Some have lessened there BLB doing this however you will never fully cure it! ...At this point it becomes clear that you must live with your BLB which some can do and some may of lessened there BLB and are happy with there result or if you are like me then you want it perfect!...And that means a strip down which of course is what i did and it really is not a hard job at all and only took me 25-30 mins!
> 
> Yes these panels can get image retention when they are overclocked if you leave your screen on with a static background...However i found setting a full white back ground for 10 mins will remove it or dropping to 60hz for 20 mins will cure it...
> 
> To be honest i don't really get now as i have set a screen saver to kick in after 10 mins if i have not moved the mouse for 10 mins..I use the windows ribbon screen saver which works perfectly and i have left the screen on for an hour or so with the ribbons screen saver going and have not seen any image retention since i use this method


Thanks again.
You mean that every BLB can be fixed by straightening?
Is it normal that I can push the screen on the bottom right and left corner a little bit in?

For the screen retention, its just in the top right corner for me thats weird.
I try to understand everything before laying my hand on it thought


----------



## dpl2007

Got my QNIX monitor today only cost £155 to get it here. (monitor cost me £198) Yes the korean that sent it declaired the post as £50 and I had to pay £105 charges - rip off merchants - I think I go down as the world record charge no? I heard some other guys in the UK payed anything from almost 0 to £50 . ARGH!

The story:

My jaw dropped today when the charges came through the post and I have checked with HMRC and parcel force these are 100 percent correct charges if you have less it was their mistake :

MONITOR: £198 BOUGHT FROM EBAY (FREE DELIVERY) UK CUSTOMS CHARGES : £105 !!! ONE HUNDRED AND 5 POUNDS - IF THIS THING IS BROKEN I AM GOING TO STAB SOMEONE (JOKING - KIND OF)! I CANT BE BOTHERED TO WAVE THE TINY £15 PARCEL FORCE FEE NOW I HAVE HAD ENOUGH...but karma is a strange thing I managed to pick up a r9 290 sapphire tri x for £200 with warranty 6 months old (which are going for £240 up to £300) so I kind of didn't lose more than I thought (one £40 down other £40 up ish) .

Bah!


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Got my QNIX monitor today only cost £155 to get it here (monitor cost me £198) Yes the korean that sent it declaired the post as £50 and I had to pay £105 charges - rip off merchants - I think I go down as the world record charge no? I heard some other guys in the UK payed anything from almost 0 to £50 . ARGH!
> 
> The story:
> 
> My jaw dropped today when the charges came through the post and I have checked with HMRC and parcel force these are 100 percent correct charges if you have less it was their mistake :
> 
> MONITOR: £198 BOUGHT FROM EBAY (FREE DELIVERY) UK CUSTOMS CHARGES : £105 !!! ONE HUNDRED AND 5 POUNDS - IF THIS THING IS BROKEN I AM GOING TO STAB SOMEONE (JOKING - KIND OF)! I CANT BE BOTHERED TO WAVE THE TINY £15 PARCEL FORCE FEE NOW I HAVE HAD ENOUGH...but karma is a strange thing I managed to pick up a r9 290 sapphire tri x for £200 with warranty 6 months old (which are going for £240 up to £300) so I kind of didn't lose more than I thought (one £40 down other £40 up ish) .
> 
> Bah!


Wow. £105 huh? Have you contested that? I would get them to justify why it is so much. I have ordered 2 monitors from Korea now. First one I was charged £30 customs fees, and the second one was about £15.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

I can tell you now that it is wrong no matter what HMRC or ParcelForce are saying.
That is over 50% tax.

You should only get charged VAT @20% .

It sounds like someone has read the posted value wrong and added duty as well.

Duty is not payable on any item under 270 quid.

EDIT: I was looking at the wrong page.

Duty is payable on anything above 135 quid.

From the sounds of it the declared value is the full amount, the seller should have declared a lower value to cover the shipping.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> The BSoD seems to be triggered by the same protection mechanism that affects video acceleration, which means ANY change to the driver triggers the problem. If the problem is happening when Windows starts, then you probably have something running on startup that uses video acceleration such as Skype. Skype doesn't seem to have a way to turn off video acceleration, so it can't be used with 14.6 if the driver is patched.
> 
> If this change becomes permanent and I can't find a way to work around the problem, then 14.4 will become the last supported version for the patcher. The current patcher can still be used with 14.6 if you avoid all video acceleration. The extra values it finds seem to be related to HDMI and shouldn't cause problems. I may release an update to fix the found values, but that won't help with the blue screens.
> 
> There may be other triggers as well because I also got the SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION blue screen while the driver was installing, which was before I even had a chance to patch the driver.
> You can run the patcher again in safe mode to restore the unpatched driver. You can also use DDU in safe mode to uninstall the driver: http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/


Toasty, would it make a difference if when you install the new cat's you choose not to install the video acceleration part (there is a check box to leave it out)


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Wow. £105 huh? Have you contested that? I would get them to justify why it is so much. I have ordered 2 monitors from Korea now. First one I was charged £30 customs fees, and the second one was about £15.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> I can tell you now that it is wrong no matter what HMRC or ParcelForce are saying.
> That is over 50% tax.
> 
> You should only get charged VAT @20% .
> 
> It sounds like someone has read the posted value wrong and added duty as well.
> 
> Duty is not payable on any item under 270 quid.


Sorry no I spoke to them and its all correct : Caculation takes these things into account: £200 monitor £50 He did not say anything about £270 but its 14 percent customs duty and that is added on to the monitor price and postage price for VAT - utter rip off! Oh yer and its £15.50 for the parcelforce charge I probably should of contested that but I had had enough - bit busy...paid it now anyway









ps oh yes and I had to make 5 phone calls and wait 30 minutes just to speak to someone about it all.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Sorry no I spoke to them and its all correct : Caculation takes these things into account: £200 monitor £50 He did not say anything about £270 but its 14 percent customs duty and that is added on to the monitor price and postage price for VAT - utter rip off! Oh yer and its £15.50 for the parcelforce charge I probably should of contested that but I had had enough - bit busy...paid it now anyway


14% of £250 is £35


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> 14% of £250 is £35


Thats right it was £200 monitor £50 postage (korean declared) £35 duty so VAT coming to £56.94 then a £15.50 parcel force charge slapped on top for fun


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

I would get back in touch with HMRC as the EU and South Korea have a FTA (Free Trade Agreement) which eliminates all duty.

http://ec.europa.eu/trade/policy/countries-and-regions/countries/south-korea/

I would also get in touch with the seller and see what the can do as the postage cost should haven't been declared (most sellers declare at $200US to take into account the shipping cost) and to see if you can get a certificate of origin if HMRC needs it.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Thats right it was £200 monitor £50 postage (korean declared) £35 duty so VAT coming to £56.94 then a £15.50 parcel force charge slapped on top for fun


So where does the £105 charge come in to this?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

35 quid duty +56.94 quid VAT+15.50 quid handling charge is 107.44 quid


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

My Qnix arrives Tuesday and the past 10 posts have me worried.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> So where does the £105 charge come in to this?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> 35 quid duty +56.94 quid VAT+15.50 quid handling charge is 107.44 quid


Ah sorry I didn't have it infront of me it was £34.96 duty £56.94 VAT and £13.50 parcelforce (the guy on the phone said it was 15.50) . £105.40 costs and I think duty is added to post and the price of the monitor to calculate VAT - so bad!

ps http://ec.europa.eu/trade/policy/countries-and-regions/countries/south-korea/ I will email them that for the hell of it - don't expect much - seriously annoying UK tax etc. ...


----------



## shahir29

Ordered the Wasabi Mango 27" QHD monitor from green-sum on eBay on the 23rd. I must say he has amazing shipping as it got here, in Canada, last night. I paid $320 in total and $20 in duties. A couple things I noticed were some light bleed at the top right and some faint buzzing when the monitor is on. Hoping to pickup a nice VESA stand now.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shahir29*
> 
> Ordered the Wasabi Mango 27" QHD monitor from green-sum on eBay on the 23rd. I must say he has amazing shipping as it got here, in Canada, last night. I paid $320 in total and $20 in duties. A couple things I noticed were some light bleed at the top right and some faint buzzing when the monitor is on. Hoping to pickup a nice VESA stand now.


Did you order a side dish of rice with that?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shahir29*
> 
> Ordered the Wasabi Mango 27" QHD monitor from green-sum on eBay on the 23rd. I must say he has amazing shipping as it got here, in Canada, last night. I paid $320 in total and $20 in duties. A couple things I noticed were some light bleed at the top right and some faint buzzing when the monitor is on. Hoping to pickup a nice VESA stand now.


$20 :O US dollars or Canadian? Gulp...I hate the UK for tax's!

But like I said I got like up to £80 off my gfx card the same day - karma!


----------



## shahir29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> $20 :O US dollars or Canadian? Gulp...I hate the UK for tax's!
> 
> But like I said I got like up to £80 off my gfx card the same day - karma!


Canadian dollars, that's equivalent to $18.43 US. Gotta love having 5% tax in Alberta







I managed to pick up an R9 290 for $420 taxes included as well! Just set up my new monitor before work, so I'm excited to go home and try it out.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shahir29*
> 
> Canadian dollars, that's equivalent to $18.43 US. Gotta love having 5% tax in Alberta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to pick up an R9 290 for $420 taxes included as well! Just set up my new monitor before work, so I'm excited to go home and try it out.


Jesus so that's like £11 I'm paying almost 10 times as much. Crappy government. No wonder we got one of your guys running our bank now I think. My £100 pays for one light bulb at least woohoo! http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/law-and-order/10717234/Police-spend-100-to-change-a-light-bulb.html


----------



## ghost2212

Just had my Qnix arrive from Korea, I brought this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171313642706?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 It took ages to go through customs and I paid £35.44 in charges. I asked the Seller to declare it as $100 and he did just that. Came Via EMS but took 14 days because of the long customs time. Had another friend order his second from a different seller that came via DHL and it took 3-4 days I believe. He also only payed approximately £15 so it can vary and depends on what the seller marks it as I guess.

Will let you know how mine is when I open it up tomorrow to use it


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> No difference between green-sum and acessorieswhole. I know both sellers, and you'll get the same product regardless of who you order from. Also the QX2710 monitors produced on April 19th and after (check the back of the monitor) are the best 'build quality' I've seen so far. Nearly no issues.
> 
> Also no seller can really provide better panels overall. There is only one distributor of QX2710 Matte monitors in all of South Korea-- every seller carries the same stock.


Nice Info +R









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that would be very depressing news indeed!...However i truly believe that ToasyX will find a way to work around this AMD driver problem!...And i also believe that maybe its time that all the people who love there QNIX and X-Star monitors running as smooth as silk up to120hz as much as i do show toastyX just how much we appreciate all of the free time and effort that he puts into supporting this community!
> 
> The Qnix...X-Star...and Catleap monitors have all become much sort after monitors because they are all capable of overclocking up to 120hz!...Because of one man ToastyX... None of these monitors would have the same significance if it was not for ToastyX!....This community would not exist if it was not for Toastyx!.....It is because of ToastyX that we are all here in this thread discussing how much we are all enjoying our monitors and what we are using our 120hz PLS / IPS monitors for!....We all no that you can not even buy a main steam IPS /PLS 120hz capable monitor!...Without ToastyX IPS /PLS 120hz monitors do not exist!...Without ToastyX only far less superior 120hz TN panels exist in the main stream market!
> 
> Without Toastyx and his nvlddmkm-patcher.exe *no* Nvidia cards would not be able to push there monitors past 96hz and that's only a select few as most would not be able to overclock there monitors at all without the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe...Also Without toastyX and his nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe *no* Nvidia SLI user would ever be able to overclock there monitors at all!...And without without ToasyX and his atikmdag-patcher.exe *no* AMD/ATI cards would be able to overclock there monitors at all!...And without toastyX Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) *no* AMD / ATI user would be able to create *any* custom resolutions!
> 
> 
> I hope ToastyX does not mind me blowing his whistle for him but i think its about time that everyone knew just how important ToastyX is to this community!....Without him it simply would not exist!...I believe that its about time that people showed Toasty just how much they appreciate all his hard work especially the the AMD/ATI card users in fact everyone and i feel sure with support of the community that he built behind him he will Find a solution patching the new AMD Eyefinity Drivers so that we can all enjoy our monitors from now and into the future!
> 
> Please Donate to ToastyX and show him how much you appreciate all of the hard work and free time he has put into to *our* community for free!.....Please click on the link below to go to toastyX site and you will find his Donation link 3 Sentences down.....I know i have just donated to toastyX!...And it is not my first time!
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher?page=1


WELL SAID! ...









I hope others head your advise. Maybe use the perspective of ... donate a little out of how much you saved being able to game on a "RARE" monitor with [email protected] specs ... improve your experience much? HECK YEA









AND lets not forget to show some appreciation for "wntrsnowg" for starting the thread and keeping it updated!


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Toasty, would it make a difference if when you install the new cat's you choose not to install the video acceleration part (there is a check box to leave it out)


So at first no, but now that I've prevented Skype from starting up on start, I'm able to run no with no blue screens. This is a poor fix in my opinion, Skype is essential for me. However, the Watch Dogs performance boost will be nice. Even just opening Skype with no video acceleration installed still causes blue screens.
I'll surely donate to Toasty when I get my paycheck Friday also.


----------



## ShadowsDemise

It looks like I lucked out big time. I order a Qnix monitor from this listing on Tuesday and I already received it today. I've been using it for a few hours now and have not noticed any dead pixels (I have tested it against the solid black/white/red/green/blue screen). There is the typical brighter corners from the backlight that I've heard is common in PLS monitors but other than that I haven't really noticed any BLB. The only thing that I've noticed is that the colors seem to be slightly warm but that's easy enough to fix with color calibrations. I'm only able to OC to 96hz. I tried 110hz but I'd occasionally get scanlines and other artifacts. I'll probably swap the cable and see if I can get a better OC.


----------



## Kokin

Hey guys, I just wanted to report that 14.6beta works to achieve 120Hz with atikmdag-patcher 1.2.4 and CRU 1.1.2, however it is not perfect. I am using a R9 290X BIOS on my R9 290(non-X) to bypass the black screen problem and get occasional screen tearing/corruption especially if I overclock my GPU.

Big thank you to ToastyX for making any of this possible.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hey guys, I just wanted to report that 14.6beta works to achieve 120Hz with atikmdag-patcher 1.2.4 and CRU 1.1.2, however it is not perfect. I am using a R9 290X BIOS on my R9 290(non-X) to bypass the black screen problem and get occasional screen tearing/corruption especially if I overclock my GPU.
> 
> Big thank you to ToastyX for making any of this possible.


ok i'm buying one of these.. wife and sister are gonna split it for my Birthday. so that gives me room for a new GPU.. i am wondering how your 290X handles this? apart of Watch dogs being terrible.. how about other AAA titles. like AC, Batman , Bioshock etc..


----------



## m4tic

I received a DP2710 yesterday; it's a 5/15/2014 build. The monitor has no issues (blb/pixels). I'm on 14.6 Betas (R9 290). I've noticed when I up the display to 120hz it kills my wifi. i know i know... I just moved and don't have my network set up proper yet.


----------



## DrGroove

Quick question, I just got my qnix and am having some issues. I plug in the DVI cable and power brick, hit the power button, and the light goes blue but then the screen stays black and it just starts slowly blinking red. Is this the normal standby indicator, meaning that the DVI cable it came with is crap, or does this mean something else is wrong?


----------



## seanp2501

yes that would be normal if the connection does not detect a dual link dvi port/cable. Be careful. I tried to connect to a pc at work and later realized the video card and cable I was using was single link dvi. This will not work. You need a dual link compatible video card and cable. The cable supplied with the monitor works great on me end here.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

To my surprise my Qnix arrived today and it shipped Wednesday. The stand is rather meh, but it's sufficient. Mine was apparently put together on 5/21/2014. No dead pixels, no BLB (I think). The AG coating (matte) on this display is so light it's practically a glossy display, it shows me just how heavy all the other matte coatings are that I've experienced.

I booted up Skyrim and saw massive stutter when turning around due to my limited vram which is expected and I'm buying a 780 Ti at the end of July.

My only real complaint so far is the DL DVI-D cord is too short, but that's because my tower is placed in an odd position. I do notice a slight reflection of a few millimeters at the bottom of the panel due to the glossy bezel.

The picture quality is simply amazing, it shows me how I've been oversaturating the colors and crushing the detail by using Nvidia's Digital Vibrance setting to make up for low quality displays.

I noticed the price jumped up $30 today as well, two increases since I bought it on the 21st.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc

Edit - There is black space the length of a few millimeters between the bezel and where the picture starts to display, but since it's black it shouldn't matter.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ok i'm buying one of these.. wife and sister are gonna split it for my Birthday. so that gives me room for a new GPU.. i am wondering how your 290X handles this? apart of Watch dogs being terrible.. how about other AAA titles. like AC, Batman , Bioshock etc..


Runs perfect up to 14.4 drivers as the 14.6 beta isn't fully supported but will work.

I used to run a 7950 at 1300/1700 clocks but that didn't have enough steam for 1440p at 120hz and now my R9 290 can handle most games on high settings with no AA at around 90-120 FPS. The monitor is still absolutely amazing at 60Hz and a R9 290 could easily hold 60FPS with maxed settings. Make sure you turn off/down AA settings first if you want to get more FPS in a game since the higher res allows games to draw lines with less jaggies, so AA isn't as visually effective.

I would suggest a non-ref coooler as well. Only get reference if you plan to do watercooling, otherwise it will run warm and loud.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Runs perfect up to 14.4 drivers as the 14.6 beta isn't fully supported but will work.
> 
> I used to run a 7950 at 1300/1700 clocks but that didn't have enough steam for 1440p at 120hz and now my R9 290 can handle most games on high settings with no AA at around 90-120 FPS. The monitor is still absolutely amazing at 60Hz and a R9 290 could easily hold 60FPS with maxed settings. Make sure you turn off/down AA settings first if you want to get more FPS in a game since the higher res allows games to draw lines with less jaggies, so AA isn't as visually effective.
> 
> I would suggest a non-ref coooler as well. Only get reference if you plan to do watercooling, otherwise it will run warm and loud.


i know the fact that AA isn't needed in huge resolutions and Big screens. ... i can't afford a custom loop though. but i plan on getting a CLC as soon as i can snatch one on black friday and one of them kraken G10s for total of 70$ which is the price of a reservoir and tubes







... so not a bad deal.

thanks for the help...i hope the 290X can handle the upcoming dx12 and some future games as i wont be able to upgrade this until 2016.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Anyone else who has mounted an X-Star to VESA stand here? I bought a triple monitor VESA stand, but the backplates for mounting are really loose. The M-4 screws do not go in all the way, and the backplate can be lifted and jiggled. I am worried about mounting monitors and having them fall off and shatter. Is this how it is supposed to be?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i know the fact that AA isn't needed in huge resolutions and Big screens. ... i can't afford a custom loop though. but i plan on getting a CLC as soon as i can snatch one on black friday and one of them kraken G10s for total of 70$ which is the price of a reservoir and tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... so not a bad deal.
> 
> thanks for the help...i hope the 290X can handle the upcoming dx12 and some future games as i wont be able to upgrade this until 2016.


2-4x msaa is still very noticeable on the monitor. The Qnix/X-Star are only 150ppi screens and you want 250-300ppi to eliminate jaggies depending on how far your face is from the screen.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrGroove*
> 
> Quick question, I just got my qnix and am having some issues. I plug in the DVI cable and power brick, hit the power button, and the light goes blue but then the screen stays black and it just starts slowly blinking red. Is this the normal standby indicator, meaning that the DVI cable it came with is crap, or does this mean something else is wrong?


Yer I think blinking red is no signal. Least mine did that...what card you got? I fitted mine up today and it automatically turned on when I started up the pc...
Hmmm the card in your Sig is dual dvi I assume it only had one dvi connection...guess that points to the cable if the pc is on etc. ....


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Same thing happened to me when I first got it. I just restarted my PC with the monitor plugged into it and the red blinking went away.


----------



## DrGroove

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Yer I think blinking red is no signal. Least mine did that...what card you got? I fitted mine up today and it automatically turned on when I started up the pc...
> Hmmm the card in your Sig is dual dvi I assume it only had one dvi connection...guess that points to the cable if the pc is on etc. ....


My 24AWG cable from monoprice should be here on monday, so I'm hoping that works. I actually drove around today and couldn't find a single store that sells dual link DVI cables...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Same thing happened to me when I first got it. I just restarted my PC with the monitor plugged into it and the red blinking went away.


I tried this and no luck


----------



## doenute

Just a data point for everyone:

Purchased standard overclockable x-star Monday. Did not purchase a perfect pixel unit. Looking at it plugged in now!
Used Dream-Seller.
No stuck pixels, no BLB. Could not be happier! No attempt to upsell the multi-input monitor--simply took the order and obviously shipped immediately.

No attempt to overclock on R9 290 yet--just enjoying the view for now!


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doenute*
> 
> Just a data point for everyone:
> 
> Purchased standard overclockable x-star Monday. Did not purchase a perfect pixel unit. Looking at it plugged in now!
> Used Dream-Seller.
> No stuck pixels, no BLB. Could not be happier! No attempt to upsell the multi-input monitor--simply took the order and obviously shipped immediately.
> 
> No attempt to overclock on R9 290 yet--just enjoying the view for now!


First off grats on your monitor! Secondly don't be scared to overclock it take like 2 seconds


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> First off grats on your monitor! Secondly don't be scared to overclock it take like 2 seconds


I agree I love my xstar, will over clock to 110+ easily if needed. if only i can get these 14.6 drivers working correctly, locks up now all the time even when I did a fresh driver install and didnt overclock my monitor.

14.6 does load my cards much higher which is nice but I may have to go back to 14.4


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06yfz450ridr*
> 
> I agree I love my xstar, will over clock to 110+ easily if needed. if only i can get these 14.6 drivers working correctly, locks up now all the time even when I did a fresh driver install and didnt overclock my monitor.
> 
> 14.6 does load my cards much higher which is nice but I may have to go back to 14.4


AMD drivers since 14.x have changed how EDID's are handled. Many users have had an issue with this (including some users of Qnix/X-Star), the solution is to use Drivermax to install AMD's drivers rather than using the catalyst install. 14.6 is up now on drivermax.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Now I see what PLS glow is, it's very annoying in the bottom corners.

I kind of feel like I'm on my old TN display with viewing angle issue, except this time instead of things getting darker, they get brighter and color-shift.

This may still be significantly less annoying than the entire top 4 inches of my display suffering from extreme color shift which causes everything to appear much darker than the rest, which was a serious issue with my 24" TN display and also is what caused me to get the Qnix.

I also think I've been ruined by Nvidia's Digital Vibrance that I cranked up before, this display is dull compared to DV @ 70, but I'm leaving it at the default (50) as I want to prevent oversaturation and loss of detail as apparently that's the proper way to view a display.

Will it matter that Windows is forcing the display to run @ 59hz (setting it to 60 doesn't stick), but my Nvidia drivers say it's running @ 60.


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doenute*
> 
> Just a data point for everyone:
> 
> Purchased standard overclockable x-star Monday. Did not purchase a perfect pixel unit. Looking at it plugged in now!
> Used Dream-Seller.
> No stuck pixels, no BLB. Could not be happier! No attempt to upsell the multi-input monitor--simply took the order and obviously shipped immediately.
> 
> No attempt to overclock on R9 290 yet--just enjoying the view for now!


Got mine earlier this week from Dreamseller as well. He did offer to upsell but I declined. Took 6 business days to arrive. Came perfect just like yours. Overclocked to 96hz earlier and had no issues with the frame skipping test.


----------



## doenute

Just overclocked the new monitor and it still looks beautiful at 96Hz. No frame skip issues!


----------



## Haas360

Ugh I need help guys.

SO I am trying to down sample and I cant get freaking 2880x1620 to work, it should scale it down, my settings have Aspect ratio settings in nvcontrol panel and its only displaying some of the screen, most is offscreen. Regardless, while I was trying to figure that out, its not even showing my custom resolutions on games! I went to the custom resolution section in nvcontrol and its there, just not in games...

Accoring to OP I need to install drivers for my monitor. But when I try it says they are not digitally signed, and just says failed. wont let me overwrite yes or no like it says to.

How can I get at least 2560x1440p @ 120hz to show up in games as a resolution...

And if anyone has experiance with super sampling (going from high resolution down to native for better AA) Then please guide me on that as well.

Thanks guys


----------



## nz steve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Accoring to OP I need to install drivers for my monitor. But when I try it says they are not digitally signed, and just says failed. wont let me overwrite yes or no like it says to.


You just need to disable driver signature enforcement, follow this link:

http://revryl.com/2013/08/06/install-unsigned-drivers/


----------



## Gust30

Hi all,

I purchased two QX2710's from two different merchants and the other one has an annoying yellow tint and seemingly worse viewing angles from the side. Is this just normal and to be expected or should I try and take it up with the merchant? Is there anything I can do to fix them myself? I've done some color adjustment from the control panel but it still bothers me.

Strangely enough they also have some physical differences: the QNIX logo is different and the other one stands a bit higher. The power led also goes completely off instead of red on the other one.


----------



## sinnedone

Hello all









So I've been looking at these monitors on ebay lately and reading here about them some.

Now it appears there are preferred sellers and something about single input to get good quality overclockable versions.

Can someone please break this down for me? Thanks


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Ugh I need help guys.
> 
> SO I am trying to down sample and I cant get freaking 2880x1620 to work, it should scale it down, my settings have Aspect ratio settings in nvcontrol panel and its only displaying some of the screen, most is offscreen. Regardless, while I was trying to figure that out, its not even showing my custom resolutions on games! I went to the custom resolution section in nvcontrol and its there, just not in games...
> 
> Accoring to OP I need to install drivers for my monitor. But when I try it says they are not digitally signed, and just says failed. wont let me overwrite yes or no like it says to.
> 
> How can I get at least 2560x1440p @ 120hz to show up in games as a resolution...
> 
> And if anyone has experiance with super sampling (going from high resolution down to native for better AA) Then please guide me on that as well.
> 
> Thanks guys


I could down sampled 4K @ 60hz using my Nvidia cards on the Qnix and could play TR4 fine while down sampled!...I used NVCP to create custom resolutions...Below are some screens shots i made when down sampling 4K you can see my 4K timings and some shots of TR4 down sampled to 4k on the Qnix...

Yes you will need to install the monitor driver so your games can see your custom resolutions which you need for any custom resolutions that you create via NVCP so that your games can see your custom resolutions...And yes you need to turn off windows 8 driver enforcement for one session in windows to load the monitor driver

Below i have up-loaded the Qnix and X-Star monitor drivers and a handy program which you can use to Quickly turn off and turn back on windows 8 Driver Enforcement....Reboot Still required!



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Monitor Drivers

x-star.zip 0k .zip file


qnix.zip 0k .zip file


(bootuituner) Windows 8 Advance start up

Windows8Advancedstartup.zip 27k .zip file


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Anyone else who has mounted an X-Star to VESA stand here? I bought a triple monitor VESA stand, but the backplates for mounting are really loose. The M-4 screws do not go in all the way, and the backplate can be lifted and jiggled. I am worried about mounting monitors and having them fall off and shatter. Is this how it is supposed to be?
> 2-4x msaa is still very noticeable on the monitor. The Qnix/X-Star are only 150ppi screens and you want 250-300ppi to eliminate jaggies depending on how far your face is from the screen.


yep, ran into that exact issue. I just stacked 4 small washers on top of each other for each hole (don't know sizing). I mentioned it *here* a week ago. You can see the washers in the fifth picture down. I don't know why they made the holes so shallow.

One thing i'd recommend before getting your monitors on your stand, properly managing the cables, getting everything where you want, etc.. is to try to fix the backlight bleed. I didn't really notice it in games like Bioshock infinite where there weren't too many dark scenes, but I've been playing Metro Last Light recently and it can be pretty annoying and even hindering to the overall immersion. I plan to use lawson's guide that he mentions *here*, but i gotta set aside some time yet.


----------



## Shadowflare

Hi, check out the this recent X-star release: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221419815176

Compared to the old X-star monitor, it uses AH-VA panel, comes with HDMI connectivity, has higher contrast ratio, brighter and slightly better speakers.

It doesn't mention using virtual 4k resolution nor having 10-bit colour.

Any thoughts?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xDeceiver*
> 
> yep, ran into that exact issue. I just stacked 4 small washers on top of each other for each hole (don't know sizing). I mentioned it *here* a week ago. You can see the washers in the fifth picture down. I don't know why they made the holes so shallow.
> 
> One thing i'd recommend before getting your monitors on your stand, properly managing the cables, getting everything where you want, etc.. is to try to fix the backlight bleed. I didn't really notice it in games like Bioshock infinite where there weren't too many dark scenes, but I've been playing Metro Last Light recently and it can be pretty annoying and even hindering to the overall immersion. I plan to use lawson's guide that he mentions *here*, but i gotta set aside some time yet.


OK thanks. Glad to see that it is an easily fixable universal deal and not just the stand kit I bought being bad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowflare*
> 
> Hi, check out the this recent X-star release: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221419815176
> 
> Compared to the old X-star monitor, it uses AH-VA panel, comes with HDMI connectivity, has higher contrast ratio, brighter and slightly better speakers.
> 
> It doesn't mention using virtual 4k resolution nor having 10-bit colour.
> 
> Any thoughts?


That panel won't be overclockable. Otherwise it would be 600$+ like the catleaps.


----------



## BlayZin

Hey guys.

Can someone tell me if it is normal that I can push the bottom right and left corner a little bit in?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlayZin*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> Can someone tell me if it is normal that I can push the bottom right and left corner a little bit in?


Perfectly normal.


----------



## BlayZin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Perfectly normal.


Thanks that's all I wanted to know


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

My research tells me I'd be fine, but I'm going to ask.

Is this cable fine for 60hz ? (and just in case, 96/120Hz too ?)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189048&cm_re=dual_link_dvi-d-_-12-189-048-_-Product

The one that came with my Qnix is too short.

Edit - I may get a 6 foot version instead.

I'll just get this one

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2


----------



## bonzaixx1

So I got my Qnix from this seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111073520913?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 and I have two concerns now:
1) It has a single dead pixel in the center area, is that covered because it was a pixel perfect listing or is it not because they say it has to be more than one in the center? I can live with it but it is kind of disappointing after spending extra.
2) I was only able to overclock up to 100hz, 110 and 120 give me green lines everywhere. Is there anything I can do to get it to at least 110? I've tried the settings posted in the screenshots here but no luck. I have an Nvidia card btw.


----------



## sweenytodd

Question here. Is this the monitor that everyone uses here in the club that can be overclocked? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

If so, I will get one as soon as I sell my 144Hz VG248QE monitor.


----------



## themyst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonzaixx1*
> 
> So I got my Qnix from this seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111073520913?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 and I have two concerns now:
> 1) It has a single dead pixel in the center area, is that covered because it was a pixel perfect listing or is it not because they say it has to be more than one in the center? I can live with it but it is kind of disappointing after spending extra.
> 2) I was only able to overclock up to 100hz, 110 and 120 give me green lines everywhere. Is there anything I can do to get it to at least 110? I've tried the settings posted in the screenshots here but no luck. I have an Nvidia card btw.


Same story, I can only get it up to 100hz. At 110hz, there are a few green lines but definitely not stable there. I settled on 96hz and just left it. Works fantastic!


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonzaixx1*
> 
> So I got my Qnix from this seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111073520913?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 and I have two concerns now:
> 1) It has a single dead pixel in the center area, is that covered because it was a pixel perfect listing or is it not because they say it has to be more than one in the center? I can live with it but it is kind of disappointing after spending extra.
> 2) I was only able to overclock up to 100hz, 110 and 120 give me green lines everywhere. Is there anything I can do to get it to at least 110? I've tried the settings posted in the screenshots here but no luck. I have an Nvidia card btw.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themyst*
> 
> Same story, I can only get it up to 100hz. At 110hz, there are a few green lines but definitely not stable there. I settled on 96hz and just left it. Works fantastic!


What are your guys pixel clocks sitting at?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Question here. Is this the monitor that everyone uses here in the club that can be overclocked? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> If so, I will get one as soon as I sell my 144Hz VG248QE monitor.


That looks like the one, just make sure it is single input DVI-D ONLY


----------



## bonzaixx1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themyst*
> 
> Same story, I can only get it up to 100hz. At 110hz, there are a few green lines but definitely not stable there. I settled on 96hz and just left it. Works fantastic!


Is there any reason to pick 96 instead of rounding up to 100? And yeah 100 is definitely better than 60 but more is always nicer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> What are your guys pixel clocks sitting at?
> That looks like the one, just make sure it is single input DVI-D ONLY


At 100Hz, NVCP says 412.62, at 110 it says 453.88, and at 120 it says 459.53. GPU is a 780 Ti.


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonzaixx1*
> 
> Is there any reason to pick 96 instead of rounding up to 100? And yeah 100 is definitely better than 60 but more is always nicer.
> At 100Hz, NVCP says 412.62, at 110 it says 453.88, and at 120 it says 459.53. GPU is a 780 Ti.


The big difference for me is that the card downclocks when running @ 96Hz,anything above that it doesn't for me,having said that i run it @ 100Hz when gaming and 60/96Hz when pc is idle....


----------



## the9quad

Not to mention film is shot at 24 fps so 4x24=96 fps, so film will not give you issues


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Not to mention film is shot at 24 fps so 4x24=96 fps, so film will not give you issues


23.976x4 = 95.904Hz and not 96Hz, something to watch out for guys.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 23.976x4 = 95.904Hz and not 96Hz, something to watch out for guys.


that made me smile thanks:thumb:

seriously though refresh rates multiples of 24 do eliminate judder during some scenes of movies that you get at 60 hz.(3:2 pulldown) So if you cant do 120 (5:5 pulldown) or 144 (6:6 pulldown) you might as well just do 96(4:4 pulldown) and skip over 100 and 110.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> that made me smile thanks:thumb:
> 
> seriously though refresh rates multiples of 24 do eliminate judder during some scenes of movies that you get at 60 hz.(3:2 pulldown) So if you cant do 120 (5:5 pulldown) or 144 (6:6 pulldown) you might as well just do 96(4:4 pulldown) and skip over 100 and 110.


True. However, if you were to play 24(23.976)FPS video, it would be better to set the refresh rate to 72(71.928)Hz instead as at that refresh rate, the gamma shift and the rest of the overclocking side effects are much, much less (or just not there).

If anyone wants a 72Hz profile, be sure to tell me and I will make one.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

DayZ made me realize a few millimeters of the bottom screen are cut off by the bezel, this explains the extra black area at the top.

Edit - It may have just been that DayZ server.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Question here. Is this the monitor that everyone uses here in the club that can be overclocked? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> If so, I will get one as soon as I sell my 144Hz VG248QE monitor.


Yes that's the one!
Always look for PLS (not AH-VA) "panel type" in the title.

Look for *"Single-Input"* only! ... Most reputable ebay sellers will list it as ...
Description --> Item Specifics --> *Video Inputs: DVI (Dual Link), Audio (In / Out)* ... only!
(see just below the auction/ship title info)

Any *"multi-input"* variation [Multi True10 / DPmulti True10] is not overclockable beyond 85Hz (see update below) without frame dropping! In the pic below, only the "QX2710 LED Evolution II" (left side) is OC'able (96Hz+), even though the other 2 models "FALSELY" advertise they will OC to 120Hz







...
Proof ... *HERE* Digitalforce ... *HERE
*


*UPDATES ...* This also applies to all *X-Star DP2710* AH-VA multi-input models as well!

*"SE" Models* ... my take on this comes directly from QNIX Korean reps ...
The "SE" models = "Second Edition", they started coming out 1st qtr this year and have a less stringent QC. Allowed pixel defects will be less stringent if they are even fully tested to begin with ... it varies from seller to seller ... so read the fine print before buying!
This would only relate to the panels pixel quality and would not effect the PCB or OC ability whatsoever. I also don't think you'll ever find an "SE" model with a "Pixel Perfect" option? Note: we have seen plenty of SE models with no pixel defects AS reported by the user. If I had a choice though I'd always pick the NON SE model 1st!

This also coincides with many of us not seeing any noticeable benefit in paying a premium for a "Pixel Perfect". The Korean suppliers are all over the place on their pixel guarantees so unless you get it in writing pre-purchase with exactly what you expect, this includes Return Shipping (appx $150 US) most of them won't pay it unless you can make a strong case! ... I don't see the value in "Pixel Perfect". I'd take that difference and put it toward a square trade warranty









*Edit: 7/12/14* ... Latest proof that the recent new claims by "accessorieswhole" multi-input True10 SE model with the new OC PCB/Board now overclocks without frame dropping are *FALSE!*
See my comments *HERE)*

*EDIT: True10 OC Update - 8/20/14 ... 11-12-14 both models OC* ...
We now have preliminary proof that the both True10 Multi models ... WILL OC to 85Hz, but only when connected to the Dual DVI port! ... see *HDMI HERE* ... *DisplayPort HERE* It's the model in the middle and far right in the above screenshot ...
*96Hz and higher still produces Major "Frame Dropping"*









*Also* there is no cure for the noticeable input lag compared to the QNIX single-input/PLS in FPS gaming due to the "scaler" inherent in the True10 models ... see comments/graph *HERE* (1/2 way down the post)









*** Yaz also gives an updated breakdown of the True10's drawbacks including AH-VA panel is slightly inferior to the PLS panel! ... see *HERE*









Additionally it looks like some True10 models also have the *PWM Dimming* problem as expanded upon by MenacingTuba ...
*HERE* and *HERE* ...

*Frame Dropping* @ 96Hz-120Hz will look like this ... PROOF *HERE
*



===================================================================

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonzaixx1*
> 
> 2) I was only able to overclock up to 100hz, 110 and 120 give me green lines everywhere. Is there anything I can do to get it to at least 110? I've tried the settings posted in the screenshots here but no luck. I have an Nvidia card btw.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bonzaixx1*
> 
> Is there any reason to pick 96 instead of rounding up to 100? And yeah 100 is definitely better than 60 but more is always nicer.
> 
> At 100Hz, NVCP says 412.62, *at 110 it says 453.88*, and at 120 it says 459.53. GPU is a 780 Ti.
Click to expand...

At 110Hz it looks like you have changed the NVCP stock timings as they should read 443.1152 pixel clock. See my screenie below.
Note: Those timings also allow the gpu ram to properly downclock @ the desktop











Try the 110Hz timings above, you may have to do a clean install of your drivers for a clean start in NVCP








@120Hz it is obvious to me you tried the "tighter" timings and there may not be much more you can do there








@100Hz I don't have a profile for that (only 96Hz) but lets take one step at a time









As the OP is being updated, you may find my post/links *[HERE]* of some use










Lets also not forget to THANK OP *"wntrsnowg"* for starting this invaluable thread and devoting extra time to updating it









PS ... please fill in your system specs (see my sig) it makes it easier/faster for troubleshooters to find something others might have overlooked








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> The big difference for me is that the card downclocks when running @ 96Hz,anything above that it doesn't for me,having said that i run it @ 100Hz when gaming and 60/96Hz when pc is idle....


Strange your gpu ram doesn't properly downclock above 96Hz? ... maybe it is because of the full patch needed for Nvidia SLI, but IIRC Lawson (old GTX760? SLI) and others had no problems with [email protected] as long as they used NVCP stock timings, even though the pixel clock was a bit high @ 483.3984 ...see my pics/timings 110Hz above - 120Hz below ...









Note: Lawson has done some great work with custom timings for AMD/CRU/gpu ram downclocking, but I'd try all NVCP stock timings 1st.


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I could down sampled 4K @ 60hz using my Nvidia cards on the Qnix and could play TR4 fine while down sampled!...I used NVCP to create custom resolutions...Below are some screens shots i made when down sampling 4K you can see my 4K timings and some shots of TR4 down sampled to 4k on the Qnix...
> 
> Yes you will need to install the monitor driver so your games can see your custom resolutions which you need for any custom resolutions that you create via NVCP so that your games can see your custom resolutions...And yes you need to turn off windows 8 driver enforcement for one session in windows to load the monitor driver
> 
> Below i have up-loaded the Qnix and X-Star monitor drivers and a handy program which you can use to Quickly turn off and turn back on windows 8 Driver Enforcement....Reboot Still required!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monitor Drivers
> 
> x-star.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> 
> (bootuituner) Windows 8 Advance start up
> 
> Windows8Advancedstartup.zip 27k .zip file


Excellent. But I think I found my problem, and not solution. Even after installing driver I am having a issue. Now when I try ANY resolution besides native (even 1080p) it will NOT scale properly. No scaling puts it in the centre with a slight offskew to the bottom right. Aspect and full screen focus on the top right hand corner and I can't see my taskbar nor left side.... Something is up. It won't even scale 1920x1080 now. :/ ideas?


----------



## bonzaixx1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> At 110Hz it looks like you have changed the NVCP stock timings as they should read 443.1152 pixel clock. See my screenie below.
> Note: Those timings also allow the gpu ram to properly downclock @ the desktop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try the 110Hz timings above, you may have to do a clean install of your drivers for a clean start in NVCP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @120Hz it is obvious to me you tried the "tighter" timings and there may not be much more you can do there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @100Hz I don't have a profile for that (only 96Hz) but lets take one step at a time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As the OP is being updated, you may find my post/links *[HERE]* of some use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets also not forget to THANK OP *"wntrsnowg"* for starting this invaluable thread and devoting extra time to updating it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS ... please fill in your system specs (see my sig) it makes it easier/faster for troubleshooters to find something others might have overlooked


Wow thanks! I managed to get 110Hz working using that screenshot. Actually I got a small amount of green lines with your exact settings, but I lowered the total pixels horizontal and vertical values and that was enough to get rid of the green lines. I tried to get 120 to have a low enough pixel clock but I think you're right and there's not really anything I can do there. Very happy to have 110 though, thanks!


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yes that's the one!
> Always look for PLS (not AH-VA) "panel type" in the title.
> 
> Most reputable ebay sellers will list it as ...
> Description --> Item Specifics --> *Video Inputs: DVI (Dual Link), Audio (In / Out)* ... only! (just below the auction/ship title info)
> 
> Always look for single input only, any "multi-input" variation [Multi True10 / DPmulti True10] is not overclockable without frame dropping! In the pic below only the "QX2710 LED Evolution II" (left side) is OC'able, even though the other 2 models "FALSELY" advertise they will OC to 120Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Proof
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *[HERE]*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 110Hz it looks like you have changed the NVCP stock timings as they should read 443.1152 pixel clock. See my screenie below.
> Note: Those timings also allow the gpu ram to properly downclock @ the desktop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try the 110Hz timings above, you may have to do a clean install of your drivers for a clean start in NVCP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @120Hz it is obvious to me you tried the "tighter" timings and there may not be much more you can do there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @100Hz I don't have a profile for that (only 96Hz) but lets take one step at a time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As the OP is being updated, you may find my post/links *[HERE]* of some use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets also not forget to THANK OP *"wntrsnowg"* for starting this invaluable thread and devoting extra time to updating it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS ... please fill in your system specs (see my sig) it makes it easier/faster for troubleshooters to find something others might have overlooked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange your gpu ram doesn't properly downclock above 96Hz? ... maybe it is because of the full patch needed for Nvidia SLI, but IIRC Lawson (old GTX760? SLI) and others had no problems with [email protected] as long as they used NVCP stock timings, even though the pixel clock was a bit high @ 483.3984 ...see my pics/timings 110Hz above - 120Hz below ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: Lawson has done some great work with custom timings for AMD/CRU/gpu ram downclocking, but I'd try all NVCP stock timings 1st.


Will say my monitor isn't a great clocker,anything above 99Hz i have to change the timing from stock....I can do 110 but i see a slight purple like haze on msi afterburner but not on evga precision x,also nogreen lines....Going to try and snap a couple pics with my phone to see if a get stuttering in blur blaster....


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yes that's the one!
> Always look for PLS (not AH-VA) "panel type" in the title.
> 
> Most reputable ebay sellers will list it as ...
> Description --> Item Specifics --> *Video Inputs: DVI (Dual Link), Audio (In / Out)* ... only! (just below the auction/ship title info)
> 
> Always look for single input only, any "multi-input" variation [Multi True10 / DPmulti True10] is not overclockable without frame dropping! In the pic below only the "QX2710 LED Evolution II" (left side) is OC'able, even though the other 2 models "FALSELY" advertise they will OC to 120Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Proof *[HERE]*
> 
> 
> At 110Hz it looks like you have changed the NVCP stock timings as they should read 443.1152 pixel clock. See my screenie below.
> Note: Those timings also allow the gpu ram to properly downclock @ the desktop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try the 110Hz timings above, you may have to do a clean install of your drivers for a clean start in NVCP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @120Hz it is obvious to me you tried the "tighter" timings and there may not be much more you can do there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @100Hz I don't have a profile for that (only 96Hz) but lets take one step at a time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As the OP is being updated, you may find my post/links *[HERE]* of some use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets also not forget to THANK OP *"wntrsnowg"* for starting this invaluable thread and devoting extra time to updating it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS ... please fill in your system specs (see my sig) it makes it easier/faster for troubleshooters to find something others might have overlooked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange your gpu ram doesn't properly downclock above 96Hz? ... maybe it is because of the full patch needed for Nvidia SLI, but IIRC Lawson (old GTX760? SLI) and others had no problems with [email protected] as long as they used NVCP stock timings, even though the pixel clock was a bit high @ 483.3984 ...see my pics/timings 110Hz above - 120Hz below ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: Lawson has done some great work with custom timings for AMD/CRU/gpu ram downclocking, but I'd try all NVCP stock timings 1st.


Yep my custom 110hz and 120hz *memory down clockable timings* apply only to AMD cards which can not downclock there memory using standard timings at 120hz!.....Nvidia cards can downclock there Memory using standard timings at both 110hz and 120hz if your monitor can indeed be stable at these timings....Nvidia standard 110hz timings should be ok for any Nvidia user to run 24/7 and be memory down clockable only for Nvidia users if your monitor can hit 110hz!... However i would recommend running my tightened timings for your Nvidia 120hz overclock as a 483mhz pixelclock is a fair way above the 450mhz pixel clock limit!...Use my 120hz tightened timings if you want to game at 120hz and when you finished gaming just drop down to 110hz on the desktop


----------



## itcharzherp

hey ..

I just got the monitor this evening


----------



## hambone96

Just an FYI, I ordered this 10 foot Dual Link cable and it did not work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201071166462?var=500252894887&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I'd avoid it if you are looking for a longer cable.


----------



## Darkmader

I got the 6 foot monoprice cable that has been linked here all the time and it didn't make a difference at all. Stuck at 96 and won't even break 100.

So the interesting test would be for Lawson. I went back on the thread way way back just to get more general info about the monitor and Lawson has a premium, very expensive dvi cable. If you still have the one that came with it can you test it out and see if you can still hit 120 on it? If not, then that would give a lot of users taking a chance and getting the same cable to see if they can go higher, I think the cable was in the area of $40 or so.

Lawson: you talk all the time about your custom 110 for AMD, but looking at the screenshots it seems like it's just 110 plugged in with LCD Standard put in without any pixels/lines edited. Am I correct or did I see the wrong screenshot?

Also, somebody from hardocp messed with settings and got 120 and other users had good results when they were stuck at 96. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1819955 - 473 is a high pixel clock but if you are fine going well over 450 and it works for you then that's another option.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Just an FYI, I ordered this 10 foot Dual Link cable and it did not work.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/201071166462?var=500252894887&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> I'd avoid it if you are looking for a longer cable.


Why on Earth would you buy a cable like that from Ebay ?

I've seen too many comments online about fake dual link cables from Ebay/Amazon.

Get this one

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2687&seq=1&format=2&ref=cj

I ordered a 6ft version.


----------



## hambone96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Why on Earth would you buy a cable like that from Ebay ?
> 
> I've seen too many comments online about fake dual link cables from Ebay/Amazon.
> 
> Get this one
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2687&seq=1&format=2&ref=cj
> 
> I ordered a 6ft version.


Well, I'm cheap









Thanks for the link though bud!


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> I got the 6 foot monoprice cable that has been linked here all the time and it didn't make a difference at all. Stuck at 96 and won't even break 100.
> 
> So the interesting test would be for Lawson. I went back on the thread way way back just to get more general info about the monitor and Lawson has a premium, very expensive dvi cable. If you still have the one that came with it can you test it out and see if you can still hit 120 on it? If not, then that would give a lot of users taking a chance and getting the same cable to see if they can go higher, I think the cable was in the area of $40 or so.
> 
> Lawson: you talk all the time about your custom 110 for AMD, but looking at the screenshots it seems like it's just 110 plugged in with LCD Standard put in without any pixels/lines edited. Am I correct or did I see the wrong screenshot?
> 
> Also, somebody from hardocp messed with settings and got 120 and other users had good results when they were stuck at 96. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1819955 - 473 is a high pixel clock but if you are fine going well over 450 and it works for you then that's another option.


A 6 foot cable is not going to give you the best results....The shorter the cable the better the signal!...And no i can not hit 120hz stable on the cable that came with my monitor but that does also not mean that with another cable i also would not be able too hit 120hz!...Yes i believe that the better quality of cable that you have the better signal that you will have going to your monitor..However does that mean i am saying to you go buy a better quality cable?...No what i say to you is go and buy yourself a shorter cable and give your signal a chance!...Also you are far more likely to hit 120hz using tightened timings..The closer to 450mhz the stronger the signal...the shorter your DVI-D cable the stronger the signal.

Yes you are correct that my 110hz AMD down clockable timings are standard timings and you must set standard timings in CRU to be able to downclock your ram at 110hz using and AMD card....My AMD 120hz memory down clockable timings are a combination of me raising the blanking values whilst simultaneously lowering the horizontal values which is the only way to hit 120hz with an AMD card and be able to be close enough to the 450mhz and be able to downclock my cards memory clock at 120hz using an *AMD card*!...Which up until that point i did not believe was possible on any AMD card at 120hz!....However after a few hours of perseverance messing with AMD values knowing that i had to raise the blanking values to even stand a chance of down clocking the cards memory at 120hz i found those timings and realised that it was indeed possible and posted them!...

Also as i have said many times now my memory down clockable timings only apply only to AMD cards and not Nvidia Card as Nvidia cards do not need custom timings to down clock there memory using standard 110hz timings or standard 120hz.....This is because Nvidia cards can use much lower blanking values than any AMD card and still be able to downclock there ram without corrupting the screen using 110hz and 120hz standard times ...This does *not* apply to AMD cards though for the reasons above and is why i posted my AMD down clockable 110hz and 120hz AMD timings...Also the guy you linked on hardocp forum is using a Nvidia card and is most likely not using a 6 foot DVI-D cable.


----------



## winterkid09

I took apart my QX2710 Matte Display so that I could fix the panel play and lift the display up a millimeter or two so that the bottom rows of pixels would show better, and I noticed that there are 3 missing pads on the plastic casing which would explain the display being able to be pushed in slightly on the bottom corners. Does anyone else have this with their monitors and is there something to replace them with or should I worry about it? I have minimal BLB, but the big problem is two vertical columns about an inch wide that are a bit darker on the left third of the screen. Not sure what that is or how to fix it... Happens at any refresh rate.

Let me know what you think


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> I took apart my QX2710 Matte Display so that I could fix the panel play and lift the display up a millimeter or two so that the bottom rows of pixels would show better, and I noticed that there are 3 missing pads on the plastic casing which would explain the display being able to be pushed in slightly on the bottom corners. Does anyone else have this with their monitors and is there something to replace them with or should I worry about it? I have minimal BLB, but the big problem is two vertical columns about an inch wide that are a bit darker on the left third of the screen. Not sure what that is or how to fix it... Happens at any refresh rate.
> 
> Let me know what you think


Can you post a screen shot of the inch wide two vertical columns please....For the blocks missing at the back of the case you use some layers of 1m Black Double Sided Foam Tape which should be just perfect...The non placement of the mounting blocks in the case was an issue when the monitors first came out however this seemed to be sorted with the later versions!...Maybe they ran out of them again


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Can you post a screen shot of the inch wide two vertical columns please....For the blocks missing at the back of the case you use some layers of 1m Black Double Sided Foam Tape which should be just perfect...The non placement of the mounting blocks in the case was an issue when the monitors first came out however this seemed to be sorted with the later versions!...Maybe they ran out of them again


Sure thing, You can see it pretty well with the color green displayed. And thanks, I have some Foam tape with one sticky side, but I think it's a tad thinner...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> Sure thing, You can see it pretty well with the color green displayed. And thanks, I have some Foam tape with one sticky side, but I think it's a tad thinner...


Green is the very best colour to show any screen not so perfect screen uniformity and this is what it looks like you have there!....Normally one would expect to see darker area in the top right hand corner running higher refresh rates!....however this is not to much of a big deal with normal use and anything other than a solid green background set!....Also a good ICC profile can generally help to dim down this even further and you are welcome to use my 96hz and 120hz ICC profiles that i calebrated at a brightness of 200c/dm which is about 17 clicks up on the BRI+ button at 96hz and 18 clicks up from a black screen using the 120hz profile which i also use for 110hz..

If you see this in normal use and you can not live with it then tell the seller ASAP and ask him for a replacement.

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Green is the very best colour to show any screen not so perfect screen uniformity and this is what it looks like you have there!....Normally one would expect to see darker area in the top right hand corner running higher refresh rates!....however this is not to much of a big deal with normal use and anything other than a solid green background set!....Also a good ICC profile can generally help to dim down this even further and you are welcome to use my 96hz and 120hz ICC profiles that i calebrated at a brightness of 200c/dm which is about 17 clicks up on the BRI+ button at 96hz and 18 clicks up from a black screen using the 120hz profile which i also use for 110hz..
> 
> Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file


Turns out my screenshot was taken with your color profile applied already. If I tried to use any other profile with color sustainer the letters would turn red and i couldn't apply it.

I was running 120hz with 17 clicks as well like you said.

While I'm here, my monitor can overclock to 120hz with the LCD standard, with LCD reduced, or with the custom timings for achieving 120hz @ 459mhz pixel clock. Considering I can do any of the three, which one would have the best appearance? Is one of them going to respond faster or draw a picture quicker? I would thing the 459mhz one might be snappier due to values that appear to be some sort of latency being reduced, and I might also think that the LCD standard would be able to transmit more data due to having more clock cycles. This is new territory for me.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> Turns out my screenshot was taken with your color profile applied already. If I tried to use any other profile with color sustainer the letters would turn red and i couldn't apply it.
> 
> I was running 120hz with 17 clicks as well like you said.
> 
> While I'm here, my monitor can overclock to 120hz with the LCD standard, with LCD reduced, or with the custom timings for achieving 120hz @ 459mhz pixel clock. Considering I can do any of the three, which one would have the best appearance? Is one of them going to respond faster or draw a picture quicker? I would thing the 459mhz one might be snappier due to values that appear to be some sort of latency being reduced, and I might also think that the LCD standard would be able to transmit more data due to having more clock cycles. This is new territory for me.


With 120hz i will always recommend using the 459mhz timings as you will have a much stronger signal and you will be closer to the display controllers 450mhz limit!....However your ram will not downclock using my 459mhz tightened timings.... 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen...Even NVIDIA cards won't clock down if the vertical blanking/total is that low!... So i would use 120hz to game then set a lower refresh rate on the desktop or just run 110hz 24/7 as i do and i believe you will end up doing so in time anyhow as there is not much if any difference between 110hz and 120hz anyhow....In fact i see no difference at all.

Also the reason color sustainer is showing you red text with other ICC profiles is due to the fact that they were created using software other than dispcalgui and yaz has not as yet fully added surport for ICC profiles made by different calibration software as yet....However he has posted a workaround in the OP to allow color sustainer to use all non surported ICC profiles!


----------



## winterkid09

Hmm,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> With 120hz i will always recommend using the 459mhz timings as you will have a much stronger signal and you will be closer to the display controllers 450mhz limit!....However your ram will not downclock using my 459mhz tightened timings.... 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen...Even NVIDIA cards won't clock down if the vertical blanking/total is that low!... So i would use 120hz to game then set a lower refresh rate on the desktop or just run 110hz 24/7 as i do and i believe you will end up doing so in time anyhow as there is not much if any difference between 110hz and 120hz anyhow....In fact i see no difference at all.
> 
> Also the reason color sustainer is showing you red text with other ICC profiles is due to the fact that they were created using software other than dispcalgui and yaz has not as yet fully added surport for ICC profiles made by different calibration software as yet....However he has posted a workaround in the OP to allow color sustainer to use all non surported ICC profiles!


Hmm.. No way I'm settling for 110hz when my monitor hits 135hz on LCD standard! I like 120hz because it's a multiple of 24 and 30, and games often have 120hz availability. not to mention that if it only has 60hz available, 120hz is a multiple of 60.

I cannot stand 60hz desktop performance either, I actually have trouble maneuvering a mouse in 60hz, I always overshoot things.

Also why would I want my memory to downclock? I couldn't care less about the power bill, any other reason?


----------



## Kokin

I'm trying out your 120hz settings but my ram doesn't seem to downclock unlike when just setting it with standard lcd but that has a higher 493mhz clock rate.

Ever since switching from my 7950 to a R9 290, I have been getting monitor corruption regardless of what pixel clock I go for (459-490+) with 120hz.

However, I'm not experiencing any monitor corruptions with your settings and the qnix driver you uploaded in your mini guide from last week. It's even working with the 14.6 beta driver (patched with 1.2.3 AND 1.2.4 amd patcher). +rep


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> Hmm,
> Hmm.. No way I'm settling for 110hz when my monitor hits 135hz on LCD standard! I like 120hz because it's a multiple of 24 and 30, and games often have 120hz availability. not to mention that if it only has 60hz available, 120hz is a multiple of 60.
> 
> I cannot stand 60hz desktop performance either, I actually have trouble maneuvering a mouse in 60hz, I always overshoot things.
> 
> Also why would I want my memory to downclock? I couldn't care less about the power bill, any other reason?


Games that can use higher refresh rates will see and be capable of using whatever your highest refresh rate is!....If the highest refresh rate your monitor can handle is 120hz it will see it!.... If your monitor is only capable of 110hz it will only see that!....Also you don't have to set 60hz on the desktop to downclock your ram...And if your not bothered about down clocking your ram i don't need to know that just use timings that are proved to have your ram running flat out all day long its up to you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I'm trying out your 120hz settings but my ram doesn't seem to downclock unlike when just setting it with standard lcd but that has a higher 493mhz clock rate.
> 
> Ever since switching from my 7950 to a R9 290, I have been getting monitor corruption regardless of what pixel clock I go for (459-490+) with 120hz.
> 
> However, I'm not experiencing any monitor corruptions with your settings and the qnix driver you uploaded in your mini guide from last week. It's even working with the 14.6 beta driver (patched with 1.2.3 AND 1.2.4 amd patcher). +rep


I glad that i helped you mate but i am a bit confused....Are you saying that you tried my 120hz down clockable timings and your cards memory clock did not downclock?...And the only way that you can downclock your R9 290 cards memory is to use the standard timings at 120hz?...Also i have not known anyone to be stable at 493mhz using LCD standard timings at 120hz as the pixel clock is so high...But if your getting corruption regardless of what pixel clock you go for (459-490+) with 120hz!....then if this is the case i am afraid that your monitor is not 120hz capable!....

Also can you tell me which settings of mine are you using 14.6 beta driver?


----------



## the9quad

With LCD standard I can do 120 hz, and will have a green sparkle every once in a great while (I'd say it is 99.9% stable). I use Lawsons' 120hz timings instead though and it is flawless.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> I glad that i helped you mate but i am a bit confused....Are you saying that you tried my 120hz down clockable timings and your cards memory clock did not downclock?...And the only way that you can downclock your R9 290 cards memory is to use the standard timings at 120hz?...Also i have not known anyone to be stable at 493mhz using LCD standard timings at 120hz as the pixel clock is so high...But if your getting corruption regardless of what pixel clock you go for (459-490+) with 120hz!....then if this is the case i am afraid that your monitor is not 120hz capable!....
> 
> Also can you tell me which settings of mine are you using 14.6 beta driver?


That was a mistake on my part, it is downclocking now, I had a video on the background last night when posting.

I know for sure my monitor is 120Hz capable as my previous 7950 had no issues with the 120Hz tightened timings (459.86MHz) nor the 120Hz standard LCD (497MHz) in the 7 months I used it with my Qnix. I've actually never experienced screen corruptions until switching over to my R9 290 and by screen corruptions, I mean that my monitor flickers black every few seconds for a certain time and then it either stays black for a while or gives me a good signal until it starts flickering again. This leads me to believe my R9 290 cannot fully handle 120Hz. I'll try out 110Hz and also since I've only used 14.4 and 14.6 with my R9 290, I will try previous drivers to see if there is any change.

For 14.6 beta, I patched using 1.2.3 and then patched again using 1.2.4. This is because 1.2.3 can patch the VGA limit, whereas 1.2.4 can patch everything else. I use both your 120Hz settings, but the downclocking 487MHz settings seems the most stable. I did begin to see my screen flicker today with the downclocking settings, but it happens a lot less compared to the tightened settings.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> That was a mistake on my part, it is downclocking now, I had a video on the background last night when posting.
> 
> I know for sure my monitor is 120Hz capable as my previous 7950 had no issues with the 120Hz tightened timings (459.86MHz) nor the 120Hz standard LCD (497MHz) in the 7 months I used it with my Qnix. I've actually never experienced screen corruptions until switching over to my R9 290 and by screen corruptions, I mean that my monitor flickers black every few seconds for a certain time and then it either stays black for a while or gives me a good signal until it starts flickering again. This leads me to believe my R9 290 cannot fully handle 120Hz. I'll try out 110Hz and also since I've only used 14.4 and 14.6 with my R9 290, I will try previous drivers to see if there is any change.
> 
> For 14.6 beta, I patched using 1.2.3 and then patched again using 1.2.4. This is because 1.2.3 can patch the VGA limit, whereas 1.2.4 can patch everything else. I use both your 120Hz settings, but the downclocking 487MHz settings seems the most stable. I did begin to see my screen flicker today with the downclocking settings, but it happens a lot less compared to the tightened settings.


Thanks for the feedback Kokin and it does make sense!.... Let me try to explane although being as close to the display controllers pixel clock limit which is 450mhz will give you a stronger signal not all cards are capable to use such tightened timings as 1445 without artefacts and are forced to raise there totals....Its a balancing act of being as close to 450mhz without artifacts and if you can not hit 120hz using such low values without artifacts then you have no choice but to raise the pixel clock but then you need to not get to far away from the 450mhz limit

I have found that generally most people can run the tightened timings both Nvidia and AMD cards without any artefacts!.. But there will be some cards that will also not be able to use such tight timings without artefacts but this seems rare!...But i know that it is possable!...Between my tightened timings and my memory down clockable timings the hope is that at least one should work!... And with most cards both will work and then you have the choice of using a lower pixel clock VS down clockable memory timings for AMD cards...Also i have two R9 290 cards in crossfire and they work great with both timings and i am sorry to hear you are having problems with your R9 290 card!


----------



## Kokin

Thanks for that explanation, it does help to explain what I'm experiencing. I'm trying your 110Hz settings (453MHz) and it seems to be totally stable, zero black screen flickers and I was able to play Tomb Raider for a good 40 minutes without any flickering either. I'll do a bit more testing with other games and eventually move on to older drivers to see if I can still hit 120Hz with my R9 290, but I'm super happy that there aren't any more annoying flickers! Thanks again.


----------



## wadec22

where are Lawson's 110mhz timings? I found one desktop photo but it is too far out for me to see them.


----------



## the9quad

I wish they'd just sticky the timings or lawson would create a thread just called qnix timings. Be so much easier to find.


----------



## themyst

I am so upset!







I moved the other day, and I have a nice fat gash on the right hand side of the monitor.

Tried the vaseline fix, the rubbing alcohol fix, the eraser fix, no dice. It looks pretty deep because I can feel the gash grab my fingernail. Any ideas that I may not have tried to fix it?

I'm not going to do the wet towel mod to peel the AG off because it doesn't appear to net good results on this monitor.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wadec22*
> 
> where are Lawson's 110mhz timings? I found one desktop photo but it is too far out for me to see them.


The timings are below in the spoiler....Click on the screen shots of the timings and when the picture comes up click on the original button in the bottom right hand corner of the picture to get a full screen picture!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*Lawsons overclocking guide and custom timings!*

*Also please read and consider my 120hz important information at the bottom of my Guide before setting any 120hz custom resolution*

There are 2 methods that can be used to overclock your monitor depending on weather your are a Nvidia user or an AMD card user!...For Nvidia users using the NVCP with the Qnix monitor driver is the best way to overclock!

For Amd users you have to overclock using EDID overrides which are created using toastyx Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) Which you can download here

AMD card must use toastyx Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) because the catalyst control center "CCC" does not support the creation of custom resolution like the Nvidia control panel NVCP does!

*Amd card owners overlclocking method*

1: Overclcoking using AMD cards is a simple process firstly you need to download Toastyx AMD/ATI Pixel Clock Patcher which will patch your AMD drivers!....You can down load this from here Once downloaded you need to run it to patch your drivers... Now move to step 2...

2: Once the drivers are patched you can now create your custom resolutions!...Open CRU and uncheck the include extension block in CRU and create your custom resolutions!.. you can use my 120hz tightened timings below which if you have a 120hz capable monitor should allow you to hit 120hz with a pixel clock of 459mhz which will give you a strong signal!....However your cards memory will not down-clock using those timings as the vertical blanking values are to low....So If my tightened timings work you can also try my 120hz timings that will allow your cards memory to downclock on the desktop!....These timings run a higher pixel clock of 487mhz which i have also linked below!...

Also you can try using my 110hz timings which i am ruining 24/7 now as i can not tell the difference between 120hz and 110hz and using my 110hz timings you are only running a pixel clock of 453mhz which is only 3mhz above the pixelclock limit of 450mhz and these timings allows your card memory clock to downclock on the desktop!....Which to me just seems like the all round perfect solution!

If you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use any timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution!...

Once you have created your custom resolutions you will need to reboot so that the EDID overrides can been seen by windows...Once back on the desktop go to CCC and expand desktop management and then click on desktop properties and you should now see your new refresh rates listed in the refresh rate drop down box....You are done now and all you need to do next is test!

*Monitor Method For Nvidia Cards!*...Step one of this method assumes that you have used CRU with a Nvida card and that you want to swap over from CRU to the NVCP method!....However you can still use this guide if have not used CRU and you have never overclocked your monitor before with a Nvidia card by Starting at step 2:

IF you are using CRU with Nvidia cards you need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience or import the blank extension.dat into CRU when creating your custom resolutions as Nvidia Geforce experience conflicts with CRU EDID overrides....However using Nvidia control panel to create your custom resolutions and a monitor driver overcomes this and is considered a better method for a Nvidia card!

1: Go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 2:

2: Not all Nvidia cards need to be patched so you can just use the monitor driver at first and then make your custom resolutions in the Nvidia control panel "NVCP" then test!...If your custom resolution are not being seen by windows then use the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe and run it and reboot test again!.....*However you must use nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe if you are running SLI and if you are using a 400/500-series GPU*..Both the Nvidia patches can be downloaded from toastyx site here....Now once you are patched reboot again and go to step 3:

3: Download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/

Go to Nvidia control panel and make your custom resolutions you can use my 120hz tightened timings below which if you have a 120hz capable monitor should allow you to hit 120hz with a pixel clock of 459mhz which will give you a strong signal!....However your ram will not down-clock using those timings as the vertical blanking values are to low....However Nvidia cards unlike AMD cards can use auto timings for both 110hz and 120hz and be able to down clock there ram on the desktop..But be aware that you will be running a higher pixelclock using auto timings for 120hz with your pixelclock being 483mhz.

If you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use any timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution!...

120hz tighten timings Nvidia and AMD cards



120hz memory down clockable timings AMD cards only!



110hz memory down clockable timings AMD cards only!



qnix.zip 0k .zip file


x-star.zip 0k .zip file


*Nvidia card owner can also use lower vertical blanking values than any Amd card which means they some maybe able to hit 120hz and 110hz using standard timings without the need to use my memory optimized timings and still achieve memory downclock*....However if you find that you can not hit 120hz with standerd timings then use my tightened 120hz timings which will give you a much stronger signal and a much higher chance of hitting 120hz!...However bear in mind that with these timings your cards memory will not downclock on the desktop so you may want to set 60hz or 96hz or even 110hz while on the desktop and not gaming!

*Important information Using 120hz timings read below!

Please take into consideration that the monitors display controller chip has a pixel clock design limit of 450mhz!...So using my 120hz AMD cards down clock-able timings will run a much higher pixel clock of 487mhz...And using NVCP standard 120hz timings will set a high pixel clock of 483mhz....No one knows the long term affect of running such a high pixel clock which is why i run 110hz 24/7 now as i can not tell the difference between 110hz and 120hz....However when i did run 120hz i used to use my tightened timings which bought my pixel clock down to 459mhz only 9mhz above the limit and i used to set a 96hz refresh rate when i finished gaming and was back on the desktop!.... I personally would advise the tightened timings option if you want to run 120hz!.. And not to use a 120hz custom resolution running a pixelclock of 487mhz or 483mhz !...we have tested that these timings are possible for some and have made them freely available for you all to try!.. but you all now know the facts so if you are going to use them then please use them at your own use at your own discretion!*


----------



## wadec22

none to click on.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Here below Click on the screen shots and when the picture comes up click on original in the bottom right hand corner to get a full screen picture!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Lawsons overclocking guide and custom timings!
> 
> Also please read and consider my 120hz important information at the bottom of my Guide before setting any 120hz custom resolution
> 
> There are 2 methods that can be used to overclock your monitor depending on weather your are a Nvidia user or an AMD card user!...For Nvidia users using the NVCP with the Qnix monitor driver is the best way to overclock!
> 
> For Amd users you have to overclock using EDID overrides which are created using toastyx Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) Which you can download here
> 
> AMD card must use toastyx Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) because the catalyst control center "CCC" does not support the creation of custom resolution like the Nvidia control panel NVCP does!
> 
> Amd card owners overlclocking method
> 
> 1: Overclcoking using AMD cards is a simple process firstly you need to download Toastyx AMD/ATI Pixel Clock Patcher which will patch your AMD drivers!....You can down load this from here Once downloaded you need to run it to patch your drivers... Now move to step 2...
> 
> 2: Once the drivers are patched you can now create your custom resolutions!...Open CRU and uncheck the include extension block in CRU and create your custom resolutions!...Feel free to use use my custom timings from the screen shots below!...
> 
> Once you have created your custom resolutions you will need to reboot so that the EDID overrides can been seen by windows...Once back on the desktop go to CCC and expand desktop management and then click on desktop properties and you should now see your new refresh rates listed in the refresh rate drop down box....You are done now and all you need to do next is test!
> 
> Monitor Method For Nvidia Cards!...Step one of this method assumes that you have used CRU with a Nvida card and that you want to swap over from CRU to the NVCP method!....However you can still use this guide if have not used CRU and you have never overclocked your monitor before with a Nvidia card by Starting at step 2:
> 
> IF you are using CRU you need to uninstall Nvidia Geforce experience as it conflicts with CRU EDID overrides.... The OP needs updating...however follow the instruction below to move from CRU to the monitor driver method
> 
> 1: Go to the CRU zip file and find the file reset-all.exe and run it...then reboot and go to step 2:
> 
> 2: Not all Nvidia cards need to be patched so you can just use the monitor driver at first and then make your custom resolutions in the Nvidia control panel "NVCP" then test!...If your custom resolution are not being seen by windows then use the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe and run it and reboot test again!.....However you must use nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe if you are running SLI and if you are using a 400/500-series GPU..Both the Nvidia patches can be downloaded from toastyx site here....Now once you are patched reboot again and go to step 3:
> 
> 3: Download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..use this link and follow the instructions if you are using windows 8 http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/
> 
> Go to Nvidia control panel and make your custom resolutions you can use my 120hz tightened timings below which if you have a 120hz capable monitor should allow you to hit 120hz with a pixel clock of 459mhz which will give you a strong signal!....However your ram will not down-clock using those timings as the vertical blanking values are to low....so if my tightened timings work i would like you to try my 120hz timings that allow your cards memory to downclock on the desktop!....These timings run a higher pixel clock of 487mhz which i have also linked below!...
> 
> If you are going to use a 96hz profile you do not need to use any timings for 96hz...just add a 96hz refresh rate for that custom resolution!... Also you can try using my 110hz timings which i am ruining 24/7 now as i can not tell the difference between 120hz and 110hz and using my 110hz timings you are only running a pixel clock of 453mhz which is only 3mhz above the pixelclock limit of 450mhz and these timings allows your card memory clock to downclock on the desktop!....Which to me just seems like the all round perfect solution!
> 
> 120hz tighten timings
> 
> 120hz memory down clockable timings
> 
> 110hz timings
> 
> qnix.zip 0k .zip file
> 
> Edit:: All the timings Above can be used with both Nvidia and AMD cards and you can use them in both NVCP or CRU!... You do not need to set Back Porch & Blanking in NVCP just use my front porch and sync width Values from my CRU screen shots and NVCP will calculate the Back Porch & Blanking values automatically from the other values of mine that you have just entered.
> 
> Nvidia card owner can also use lower vertical blanking values than any Amd card which means they some maybe able to hit 120hz and 110hz using standard timings without the need to use my memory optimized timings and still achieve memory downclock....However if you find that you can not hit 120hz with stranded timings then use my tightened 120hz timings which will give you a much stronger signal and a much higher chance of hitting 120hz!...However bear in mind that with these timings your cards memory will not downclock on the desktop so you may want to set 60hz or 96hz or even 110hz while on the desktop and not gaming!
> 
> Important information Using 120hz timings read below!
> 
> Please take into consideration that the monitors display controller chip has a pixel clock design limit of 450mhz!...So using my 120hz AMD cards down clock-able timings will run a much higher pixel clock of 487mhz...And using NVCP standard 120hz timings will set a high pixel clock of 483mhz....No one knows the long term affect of running such a high pixel clock which is why i run 110hz 24/7 now as i can not tell the difference between 110hz and 120hz....However when i did run 120hz i used to use my tightened timings which bought my pixel clock down to 459mhz only 9mhz above the limit and i used to set a 96hz refresh rate when i finished gaming and was back on the desktop!.... I personally would advise the tightened timings option if you want to run 120hz!.. And not to use a 120hz custom resolution running a pixelclock of 487mhz or 483mhz !...we have tested that these timings are possible for some and have made them freely available for you all to try!.. but you all now know the facts so if you are going to use them then please use them at your own use at your own discretion!


----------



## lawson67

Yes sorry if you go back i just edited it...it displays correct now


----------



## wadec22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes sorry if you go back i just edited it...it displays correct now


exactly what I wanted. You are the man sir. +rep. Thank you for all your work on this.


----------



## dpl2007

quick question : what kind of adapter are you guys using in the UK? Someone said just use a shaver plug adapter but I am unsure of what amp and if I should go for a travel adapter? Thanks!

To go on the monitor adapter you get in the box with the korean plug on it of course.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> quick question : what kind of adapter are you guys using in the UK? Someone said just use a shaver plug adapter but I am unsure of what amp and if I should go for a travel adapter? Thanks!
> 
> To go on the monitor adapter you get in the box with the korean plug on it of course.


Lawson has answered this in this thread quite a few times and probably again within the last few days. Try the search or look at all posts by Lawson'. Or click your mouse twice and spin around while chanting Lawson 16x and he will magically appear to answer you.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> quick question : what kind of adapter are you guys using in the UK? Someone said just use a shaver plug adapter but I am unsure of what amp and if I should go for a travel adapter? Thanks!
> 
> To go on the monitor adapter you get in the box with the korean plug on it of course.


Its just a normal kettle plug adaptor like you would get on any PSU or any power brick!...Also the monitor only draws 45watts max so you should be fine with using the first one you put your hands on...I have about 4-5 laying around in my house...And i just thrown away the one that came with the monitor and used a spare one that i had that laying around ...think it was from an old PSU i had....anyhow now i have a fixed UK plug on the end of the lead from the wall to the power brick.


----------



## writer21

I could get this monitor on amazon for 329 with free shipping no tax. How is the return policy with amazon if say I don't like the monitor? Prime is usually hassle free. Its under the seller ecomade arena btw.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Its just a normal kettle plug adaptor like you would get on any PSU or any power adaptor and the monitor only draws 45watts max so you should be fine with using the first one you put your hands on...I have about 4-5 laying around in my house...


Sorry I meant on the actually plug end... Ah I see what you mean just get a complete lead from another electrical item ok thanks! On to some overclocking next - got 0 dead pixels which is nice ill do a full report at the end just for the hell of it...

EDIT:
Ah also I was wondering about which fuse to put in as it is so low? Says something like 1.2a on the brick is that amps? or does the brick handle the low watts/voltage and the lead that part? Kinda two fuses if you know what I mean :S ...


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Sorry I meant on the actually plug end... Ah I see what you mean just get a complete lead from another electrical item ok thanks! On to some overclocking next - got 0 dead pixels which is nice ill do a full report at the end just for the hell of it...
> 
> EDIT:
> Ah also I was wondering about which fuse to put in as it is so low? Says something like 1.2a on the brick is that amps? or does the brick handle the low watts/voltage and the lead that part?


The power brick is 12V 5A (60W) so a 5 amp fuse should be fine


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> The power brick is 12V 5A (60W) so a 5 amp fuse should be fine


ok thanks 5000ma is 5amps I see now thanks...


----------



## Thoraine

Any Singaporeans here bought replacement stands for their QNIX? I don't really feel safe with the default one. However, it seems cost-prohibitive to ship from eBay sellers or monoprice (most of them reaching 3x the price of the stand itself!) hope someone can offer a better solution.


----------



## wadec22

why even at 96hz is my memory not down clocking at all?


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I wish they'd just sticky the timings or lawson would create a thread just called qnix timings. Be so much easier to find.


Thanks for the advise 9quad and it has been done!... A new Overclocking thread including my custom timings thanks for the advise +REP









http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-all-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> Is the amd patcher working with 14.6beta driver release?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Yes and no, it through a out a error, but I was still able to overclock. Another user here got blue screens, possibly related.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mcdoorknob*
> 
> I'm getting the same blue screens. Happens seconds every time after I sign into Windows.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> So at first no, but now that I've prevented Skype from starting up on start, I'm able to run no with no blue screens. This is a poor fix in my opinion, Skype is essential for me. However, the Watch Dogs performance boost will be nice. Even just opening Skype with no video acceleration installed still causes blue screens.


I think I have a workaround for the blue screens. Try the latest version: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Thanks toasty
> 
> I think I have a workaround for the blue screens. Try the latest version: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I think I have a workaround for the blue screens. Try the latest version: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


Thanks very much ToastyX i knew you would sort it out!


----------



## zeppelin2k

Just ordered my monitor from AccessoriesWhole! Looks like they have a holiday and won't be able to ship it until monday, but oh well. I'm very excited!

I'm also trying to decide on a stand to use. I'm putting 1-2 17" Dell E1713S in portrait next to it, so I was thinking about this $60 stand http://www.amazon.com/Triple-Monitor-Mount-Adjustable-Screens/dp/B009S7ALH8. Alternatively, I could spend a whole lot more and get this Ergotech, which offers height adjust on each arm http://www.amazon.com/Ergotech-Triple-Stand-Telescopic-100-D16-B03-TW/dp/B007BD0MPM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1401992328&sr=1-1&keywords=ergotech. Any suggestions? Thanks.


----------



## wadec22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wadec22*
> 
> why even at 96hz is my memory not down clocking at all?


anyone? I do have a 3 screen setup running...


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wadec22*
> 
> anyone? I do have a 3 screen setup running...


R9 cards run memory at full speed with more than 1 monitor. You can use afterburner or another program to set up a 2d profile so you can lower the memory clock.


----------



## sweenytodd

Damn, I sold my VG248QE like 10 mins ago. Can't wait for the QX2710. Hopefully it'll arrive next week.


----------



## wadec22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*
> 
> R9 cards run memory at full speed with more than 1 monitor. You can use afterburner or another program to set up a 2d profile so you can lower the memory clock.


another oddity. if I run afterburner, with the monitor overclocked, BF4 will never load a multi match. it gets stuck on logging in. only happens if afterburner is running.


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wadec22*
> 
> another oddity. if I run afterburner, with the monitor overclocked, BF4 will never load a multi match. it gets stuck on logging in. only happens if afterburner is running.


I hear that only happens if your house is facing South. Time to move. But really, don't have the slightest insight as to why that happens.


----------



## Dwigz

Can someone help me, i have installed the latest nvidia driver and used the 1.2.6 patcher to overclock my xstar to 96hz. However, when I do the frame skipping test it only shows valid at 60fps. Any ideas? It was working fine before...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwigz*
> 
> Can someone help me, i have installed the latest nvidia driver and used the 1.2.6 patcher to overclock my xstar to 96hz. However, when I do the frame skipping test it only shows valid at 60fps. Any ideas? It was working fine before...


What browser are you using to test?


----------



## Dwigz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> What browser are you using to test?


I'm using Chrome


----------



## steven88

Hey guys, I'm planning to order this monitor soon

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560x1440-27inch-PC-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

I also plan to add a 3 year Square Trade warranty for $27, after 35% off coupon. So about $327 shipped for 1440p monitor. My biggest concern is bright pixels and backlight bleed. I've been doing a ton of reading the past few weeks....and it appears 95% of NEW X-Star owners say they found no bad pixels....or found minimal to no backlight bleeding....and that's with their NON-perfect pixel X-star from Dream Seller. Which is definitely a good sign for me...since I should be getting a similar batch

But what if I do get one with 5 bad pixels and terrible backlight bleed? I believe you need *more than* 5 bad pixels and backlight bleed isn't considered for returns. Is there anyway to fight this? I haven't read any posts regarding disputing stuff like this....YES I know the auction says backlight bleed isn't considered returnable....but can't ebay/paypal do anything about this? I heard ebay/paypal always sides with the buyer if they aren't happy.


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm planning to order this monitor soon
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560x1440-27inch-PC-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e
> 
> I also plan to add a 3 year Square Trade warranty for $27, after 35% off coupon. So about $327 shipped for 1440p monitor. My biggest concern is bright pixels and backlight bleed. I've been doing a ton of reading the past few weeks....and it appears 95% of NEW X-Star owners say they found no bad pixels....or found minimal to no backlight bleeding....and that's with their NON-perfect pixel X-star from Dream Seller. Which is definitely a good sign for me...since I should be getting a similar batch
> 
> But what if I do get one with 5 bad pixels and terrible backlight bleed? I believe you need *more than* 5 bad pixels and backlight bleed isn't considered for returns. Is there anyway to fight this? I haven't read any posts regarding disputing stuff like this....YES I know the auction says backlight bleed isn't considered returnable....but can't ebay/paypal do anything about this? I heard ebay/paypal always sides with the buyer if they aren't happy.


Just take the plunge. 2,630 of those have been sold by that seller. He has an 99.3% ebay rating. It is highly unlikely you will get a fubared monitor. Just do it already!


----------



## weirdpeople

Yeah i just bought two of those from dream-seller. (I have a dead subpixel on each monitor(cant even find it most of the time), and one has a little bit of blb) One will oc to 96hz the other to 120hz. now i just need to get my watercooling loop up and going so i can run all my monitors on one card(r9 290).

Might post pictures in a bit.


----------



## 4GHz

I just tried to overclock my monitor. 110Hz works fine, but at 120Hz, the screen starts to flicker in dark scenes. I there anything I can do about that? Please help








Also, If I go beyond 120Hz, will my monitor break? I'm just curious what would happen


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> I just tried to overclock my monitor. 110Hz works fine, but at 120Hz, the screen starts to flicker in dark scenes. I there anything I can do about that? Please help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, If I go beyond 120Hz, will my monitor break? I'm just curious what would happen


What card have you got Nvidia or Amd?...And are you running crossfire or SLI?....And what 120hz timings are you using?...Btw no you want blow your monitor up over 120hz !...if your monitor cant handle that refresh rate will have artefacts scanlines or if you push that hard black screen


----------



## 4GHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> What card have you got Nvidia or Amd?...And are you running crossfire or SLI?....And what 120hz timings are you using?


Only a single Radeon








I've set the timing to Automatic - LCD standard.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4GHz*
> 
> Only a single Radeon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've set the timing to Automatic - LCD standard.


Try my 120hz tightened timings you many not be able to run standard timings at 120hz! that's a high pixel clock!...Because i had so many people asking me where my timings were in this thread i made another thread with an overclocking guide and screen shots of all my timings...go try the tightened 120hz timings if they work then you might want to try my AMD down clockable timings....Link below

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-all-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide


----------



## iluvkfc

Hello, I attempted to fix the backlight bleed by removing and bending the frame. It has been a success. However, I now have a much bigger problem: there's a pink vertical line across the whole screen, it shows in Windows and BIOS so I'm pretty sure it's the monitor. What can I do to fix this?


----------



## tracerit

what's the lowest grade video card that will support the X-Star DP2710LED? I bought a Geforce GTX 780 to play some games a few months ago but no longer will be playing any games due to work. So I'm selling the GTX 780 and was planning on using the onboard Intel 4000 graphics with my i7-3770k but it doesn't work. Looking for a quiet bare minimum video card. There will be no gaming involved.

Will the Radeon R7 240 fit the bill?


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> Just take the plunge. 2,630 of those have been sold by that seller. He has an 99.3% ebay rating. It is highly unlikely you will get a fubared monitor. Just do it already!


I went ahead and placed my order....I hope lady luck will be on my side!! I hoping for minimal to no backlight bleed. And no bad pixels too!!

I'll be looking forward to overclocking it too...I won't be complaining if I hit 96mhz...still way better than 60hz


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> what's the lowest grade video card that will support the X-Star DP2710LED? I bought a Geforce GTX 780 to play some games a few months ago but no longer will be playing any games due to work. So I'm selling the GTX 780 and was planning on using the onboard Intel 4000 graphics with my i7-3770k but it doesn't work. Looking for a quiet bare minimum video card. There will be no gaming involved.
> 
> Will the Radeon R7 240 fit the bill?


The cheapest card you can get with dual link DVI port and 1440p resolution support.


----------



## Thoraine

Wow. My monitor just died on me. It made a crackling sound and now it refuses to power up. Also my AC and computer died on the same day (after swapping out the monitor). Awesome. Emailed the seller. Hope he replies soon... God damn.


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoraine*
> 
> Wow. My monitor just died on me. It made a crackling sound and now it refuses to power up. Also my AC and computer died on the same day (after swapping out the monitor). Awesome. Emailed the seller. Hope he replies soon... God damn.


When did you buy yours? Do you think your computer and AC dying the same day has anything to do with it?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Honestly, that sounds like an electrical problem....What's the odds of all those things dying, I wouldn't rule it out....


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

What replacement stands are people in this thread buying ?


----------



## Thoraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> When did you buy yours? Do you think your computer and AC dying the same day has anything to do with it?


Arrived 4 days ago. No I doubt its an electrical problem. Computer hard disk borked on me due to some datat corruption. Reformat fixed it. Left my ac on 24/7 for a month straight. Saw it coming from a mile away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jamaican Reaper*
> 
> Honestly, that sound like an electrical problem....With the odds of all those things dying, I wouldn't rule it out....


Highly doubtful.


----------



## steven88

Thoraine, who did you buy the QNIX from? Let us know if they take care of you


----------



## Thoraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Thoraine, who did you buy the QNIX from? Let us know if they take care of you


Bought it from qoo10 not ebay so I doubt 90% of the users here will be buying from him. Just a generic username AccessoriesWhole or something. Had many positive reviews so i didn't feel unsafe buying from him. I'll keep you guys updated anyway.


----------



## SmackHisFace

Hi I know this question has been asked before but this thread is over 1800 pages long and I cant find it. I have overclocked my monitor to 96 hz Via the Nvida control panel. I have also downloaded and installed the nvlddmkm-patch-full. Long story short some of my games recognize 96hz like BF4 and watch dogs but other games like SC2 only have 59 or 60hz as an option even though it isnt FPS capped at 60 and definitely supports 120hz +. What do I need to do for Sc2 to recognize this as a 96 hz monitor. Thanks for the help guys. Edit: SLI 780 Win 8.1 latest drivers if that matters


----------



## Thoraine

Ummm good news I guess? My monitor is working again... Decided to test it again because sending it back would be too much of a hassle. I really hope that was a one-off issue. Will keep monitoring.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Hi I know this question has been asked before but this thread is over 1800 pages long and I cant find it. I have overclocked my monitor to 96 hz Via the Nvida control panel. I have also downloaded and installed the nvlddmkm-patch-full. Long story short some of my games recognize 96hz like BF4 and watch dogs but other games like SC2 only have 59 or 60hz as an option even though it isnt FPS capped at 60 and definitely supports 120hz +. What do I need to do for Sc2 to recognize this as a 96 hz monitor. Thanks for the help guys. Edit: SLI 780 Win 8.1 latest drivers if that matters


Under 'Step 2' of Overclocking Guide and Help you'll find the Qnix drivers. Follow the instructions for installing them, and your games should see your monitor as 96hz native


----------



## mehtacool

Hi, just subbed to the club







I just ordered a qnix qx2710 glossy from green-sum on eBay 299.99 + free shipping.


----------



## bluedevil

Gotta say, two months later, I LOVE MY QNIX! I would never go back to a TN panel ever!


----------



## iluvkfc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> Hello, I attempted to fix the backlight bleed by removing and bending the frame. It has been a success. However, I now have a much bigger problem: there's a pink vertical line across the whole screen, it shows in Windows and BIOS so I'm pretty sure it's the monitor. What can I do to fix this?


Anyone? Don't really feel like replaciing it...


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> Anyone? Don't really feel like replaciing it...


Sounds like you screwed it. Try taking it apart and putting it back together again how it was originally. If that doesn't work you'll just have to suck it up...


----------



## dawnoftheh3ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iluvkfc*
> 
> Hello, I attempted to fix the backlight bleed by removing and bending the frame. It has been a success. However, I now have a much bigger problem: there's a pink vertical line across the whole screen, it shows in Windows and BIOS so I'm pretty sure it's the monitor. What can I do to fix this?


Yikes. How big is the line? Does it stay there the whole time the monitor is in use, and does it ever flicker or change positions? It most likely is the monitor, however it may not have been your doing if you removed the bezel properly and just applied pressure to the bezel itself. It could just have been a coincidence that it happened around the same time. As far as troubleshooting the issue all you can really do is try another cable, or another pc to rule out any issue with the graphics card and cable. I haven't taken mine apart yet--it only has very minor bleed in two spots near the bottom and have been considering lately removing and trying to make my own bezel and mount--so I'm not exactly sure of what the removal process entails. As Overfiend mentioned you could try putting it back the way it was but if you've bent the bezel and that's all you really changed then there isn't much to "put back the way it was." I wouldn't put too much stress on the bezel (taking it off, bending one direction, putting back on, taking back off, bending opposite direction, putting back on, etc). They aren't the highest quality built monitors.

When did you order it and who did you buy it from? If it's within the return period, or under warranty, OR if you're still able to purchase a square trade warranty, replacing may be your best option if none of the above helps at all. Sorry man







Best of luck with it, let us know if you manage to figure it out.


----------



## Cyalume

Quote:


> Hi I know this question has been asked before but this thread is over 1800 pages long and I cant find it. I have overclocked my monitor to 96 hz Via the Nvida control panel. I have also downloaded and installed the nvlddmkm-patch-full. Long story short some of my games recognize 96hz like BF4 and watch dogs but other games like SC2 only have 59 or 60hz as an option even though it isnt FPS capped at 60 and definitely supports 120hz +. What do I need to do for Sc2 to recognize this as a 96 hz monitor. Thanks for the help guys. Edit: SLI 780 Win 8.1 latest drivers if that matters


You can try forcing 96hz as the only option available to the monitor by using the CRU (Custom Resolution Utility) as a last ditch effort. Delete all other options.That worked wonders for me in games that were either locked to 60 FPS or that wouldn't utilize 96hz for whatever reason.

Quote:


> Hello, I attempted to fix the backlight bleed by removing and bending the frame. It has been a success. However, I now have a much bigger problem: there's a pink vertical line across the whole screen, it shows in Windows and BIOS so I'm pretty sure it's the monitor. What can I do to fix this?


I know this isn't a very professional answer, but you can always try bending it or wiggling it about (very carefully) until the pink line goes away. Bending got the problem there, and if the issue is due to a loose connection/etc, bending it again may fix it.
---

*Hey guys. I have another PLS panel, the VP2770. I'm bringing my question here because my picture wasn't getting any replies in the VP2770 topic, and I need to be able to act if there is something wrong with the display, as I only have 30 days to exchange it. Also, I had the same problem with my QNIX, so I felt this was relevant enough to be posted in the QNIX topic. My new display is showing signs of minor shadowing/a dark spot in the bottom right corner, pictured below. Does this look normal to all of you? What do you think? The corner is a bit more severe in person, and my eyes tend to dart immediately to it when watching any sort of video with bright colors.*


----------



## iluvkfc

Thanks very much for your replies and advice. A more detailed explanation of my problem and what I did in case someone knows how to fix it:

What I did was essentially strip the monitor down to the panel, then unscrewed the rails holding the panel together and used a screwdriver to pop the frame off the rest of the panel. I then bent to make it as straight as possible and replaced it. I found that I had trouble placing it back so I looked at the back of the panel and saw a plate that could be unscrewed, doing that revealed a PCB where the cables attach to the panel, which was connected to the screen itself by a bunch of these flat ribbon cables. I may have, in my handling of the frame, disrupted one of them, but they're still securely attached and don't show signs of damage. Maybe the frame is applying pressure in a wrong way to one of them? Could I try using the monitor without the frame attached to see if the frame is causing the damage or is that just a very dumb idea? I also added some spacers that were missing between the back of the monitor and the panel, this helps with some "lines" that were occuring on the screen when it was displaying a black image, not sure if that has to do with anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Sounds like you screwed it. Try taking it apart and putting it back together again how it was originally. If that doesn't work you'll just have to suck it up...


I will do that when I have the time, worse comes to worst I will buy a new one, as I simply cannot live without glorious IPS 1440p 120Hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dawnoftheh3ro*
> 
> Yikes. How big is the line? Does it stay there the whole time the monitor is in use, and does it ever flicker or change positions? It most likely is the monitor, however it may not have been your doing if you removed the bezel properly and just applied pressure to the bezel itself. It could just have been a coincidence that it happened around the same time. As far as troubleshooting the issue all you can really do is try another cable, or another pc to rule out any issue with the graphics card and cable. I haven't taken mine apart yet--it only has very minor bleed in two spots near the bottom and have been considering lately removing and trying to make my own bezel and mount--so I'm not exactly sure of what the removal process entails. As Overfiend mentioned you could try putting it back the way it was but if you've bent the bezel and that's all you really changed then there isn't much to "put back the way it was." I wouldn't put too much stress on the bezel (taking it off, bending one direction, putting back on, taking back off, bending opposite direction, putting back on, etc). They aren't the highest quality built monitors.
> 
> When did you order it and who did you buy it from? If it's within the return period, or under warranty, OR if you're still able to purchase a square trade warranty, replacing may be your best option if none of the above helps at all. Sorry man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck with it, let us know if you manage to figure it out.


It seems to be 1 pixel wide and 1440 pixels tall, always on and not changing position and color is fuchsia which seems to indicate that "R" and "B" channels are always on. Pretty sure it's just the monitor. Bought from accessorieswhole 4 months ago iirc, not sure if they can do anything as I opened it. I'll try some things to fix it, if not I will have to buy a new one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyalume*
> 
> I know this isn't a very professional answer, but you can always try bending it or wiggling it about (very carefully) until the pink line goes away. Bending got the problem there, and if the issue is due to a loose connection/etc, bending it again may fix it.


I'll try this, maybe the newly-bent frame is applying pressure in a wrong place. If it doesn't fix it, I'll buy a new one.


----------



## Ramzinho

ok Guys.. i'm buying soon. I'm ordering *THIS*

how do you guys rarte Dream-Seller he never replied my questions "2 days Already" also how is the shipping time. does he ship fast or takes a while? also how long if any ordered from him it took the monitor to arrive, finally how was the packaging?

i am ordering this because it's only 20$ more than the non pixel perfect "I know there is no Pixel Perfect thing" but meh if it came with 10 dead ones it would be hard time returning it and waiting for a replacement. also he seems the only one shipping to my country for free and lower than 350$


----------



## Enilder

I am thinking of picking up a second monitor. Does anyone use double portrait setup with this monitor?


----------



## Enilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ok Guys.. i'm buying soon. I'm ordering *THIS*
> 
> how do you guys rarte Dream-Seller he never replied my questions "2 days Already" also how is the shipping time. does he ship fast or takes a while? also how long if any ordered from him it took the monitor to arrive, finally how was the packaging?
> 
> i am ordering this because it's only 20$ more than the non pixel perfect "I know there is no Pixel Perfect thing" but meh if it came with 10 dead ones it would be hard time returning it and waiting for a replacement. also he seems the only one shipping to my country for free and lower than 350$


One of easiest sellers to work with. I get my replies in next business day. I didn't buy the "perfect pixel guaranteed" one but I got the perfect pixel one. Took <5 business days to get mine (I believe 3 days from Korea to US east).


----------



## darthdirty

why shouldnt i just get this from NEwegg??? also would i be able to use 2 of these with a 4Gb 680?


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ok Guys.. i'm buying soon. I'm ordering *THIS*
> 
> how do you guys rarte Dream-Seller he never replied my questions "2 days Already" also how is the shipping time. does he ship fast or takes a while? also how long if any ordered from him it took the monitor to arrive, finally how was the packaging?
> 
> i am ordering this because it's only 20$ more than the non pixel perfect "I know there is no Pixel Perfect thing" but meh if it came with 10 dead ones it would be hard time returning it and waiting for a replacement. also he seems the only one shipping to my country for free and lower than 350$


I'm hoping to get mine real soon. I'm started to get a little worried though. I placed my order over the weekend. Saturday for me, Sunday morning for them. Still no tracking number. It's just sitting there









I normally don't complain if it's a private party and working individual...but if it's a large ebay company, I usually expect them to ship it out immediately after it clears payment...especially if it includes "Expedited shipping". I'll be cool if I receive mine by this Thursday to Friday....but anything after that, I dunno...that's not what was listed as "Expedited Shipping", when I placed my order. I'm west coast btw

Well see how things turn out.


----------



## Seafodder

I ordered the Qnix from green-sum Sunday evening and had a tracking number before I got up for work Monday morning. And now the waiting begins...


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> I ordered the Qnix from green-sum Sunday evening and had a tracking number before I got up for work Monday morning. And now the waiting begins...


Yeah green sum is extremely fast. I ordered from them before and I got a tracking number the next day....However Dream Seller is taking awhile...not sure what the hold up is.


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoraine*
> 
> I really hope that was a one-off issue. Will keep monitoring.


Monitoring your monitor? How very meta of you.


----------



## SmackHisFace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Under 'Step 2' of Overclocking Guide and Help you'll find the Qnix drivers. Follow the instructions for installing them, and your games should see your monitor as 96hz native


Hi Thanks for the reply. When I tried to install the driver I got an error. Any ideas?


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Hi Thanks for the reply. When I tried to install the driver I got an error. Any ideas?


Yes, do it again and follow the install instructions in FAQ.rtf that came with the download









Device Manager -> Update Driver Software -> Browse My Computer for Driver Software -> Let Me Pick From a List of Device Drivers On My Computer -> Have Disk -> (browse for the .inf file) -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway

Failing that, run CMD and type in "bcdedit.exe /set TESTSIGNING ON" without the quotation marks.

Then restart your PC and follow the install instructions again.


----------



## MetEatMeat

Hi all.

I currently own the X-Star model and love gaming with it via my pc. After today's E3 session, I'm looking into purchasing the Xbox1 for a few exclusives. To my understanding, the Halo's being released are only 1080p and the X-star (DVI) doesn't have an internal scalier. Will I get a huge black border, will the Xbox1 upscale? Since the monitor only supports Dual-Link DVI, I will need a HDMI -> DVI adapter

Thanks in advance!

PS: I ordered from 'Dream-Seller' and they made me pay another $45 NZD to ship, even though it stated free shipping. After battling with the Ebay dispute center for a while, I just decided to pay it. For all potential New Zealand buyers, please take this into account.


----------



## phygar




----------



## Ramzinho

well i did get a reply from dream-seller today "Took them one business Day"

here are my quiestions:
1- For perfect pixel what's the acceptable amount of dead pixels
2- Does this come with Dual DVI cable or should i buy it separately
3- is shipping to Egypt Free
4- How long do you think it would take to arrive
5- finally please can you securely wrap this with more protective foam as customs and delivery men are not so tender with handling stuff.

And Here is their Reply:
Quote:


> Hi, thank you for the message.
> 
> 1. With Perfect pixel option, 0 dead pixel is possible. Normal ones, up to 5pixels can be found and allowed. We define dead pixel as "bright dot" in the dark. Dark dot and stuck pixel is not considered as dead pixel. BRIGHT DOT ONLY.
> 
> 2. The cable comes in a set
> 
> 3. Yes free shipping to Egypt
> 
> 4. We ship via FedEx, it takes about 3~5 business days.
> 
> 5. Sure no problem.
> 
> Hope all your questions are answered.


the answer is very very good, if they deliver what they promise this will be a very good deal to me looking that other sellers sell non perfect for same amount.

Here is the *Link:* Please advise. I'm ordering on Thursday.


----------



## monmak2

Okay, please excuse my ignorance. I currently have the Asus VG248QE 144Hz 1ms and I have been eyeing the new Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 1440p 144Hz 1ms and the QNIX 1440p.

My issue is understanding the numbers if someone can please help me out.

Just as an example, say the Qnix monitor I buy has a refresh rate capped at 96Hz and measured response time is 8ms.

A new frame is rendered every 1 / 96 Hz = *10.4ms*.

At 8ms GTG response time, wouldn't there be some time left (10.4ms - 8ms = *2.4ms*) that would stop any ghosting/motion blur? I see in the FAQ it says that there is noticeable motion blurring in FPS games. How is this possible?

I understand that there are no real industry standards when it comes to measuring response times. I would just like to know how this refresh rate vs response time is not sufficient enough for professional FPS use?

Best regards and thanks in advance!


----------



## QuantumPion

Hi, my power brick died for my X-Star. I'm having trouble finding where to get a replacement. I know I need a 12V 5A adapter but there seems to be a variety of different DC connectors (2.1mm vs 2.5mm vs other). Anyone know which one to get and where to get it? Even better if one is available B&M?


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumPion*
> 
> Hi, my power brick died for my X-Star. I'm having trouble finding where to get a replacement. I know I need a 12V 5A adapter but there seems to be a variety of different DC connectors (2.1mm vs 2.5mm vs other). Anyone know which one to get and where to get it? Even better if one is available B&M?


Just out of curiosity, how long have you had your X-Star for? And how many hours typically did you use it per day?


----------



## QuantumPion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how long have you had your X-Star for? And how many hours typically did you use it per day?


I bought it almost exactly one year ago and it is on ~8 hours per day. Never had any problems with it, the power brick just popped and that was that. No unusual buzzing or heat, just failed suddenly without warning.

I bought this adapter hoping it is the right one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0023Y9EQC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item

but I am worried whether it will be or not since there are 2.1mm and 2.5mm connector variants and I have no idea which one I need.


----------



## zeppelin2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumPion*
> 
> I bought it almost exactly one year ago and it is on ~8 hours per day. Never had any problems with it, the power brick just popped and that was that. No unusual buzzing or heat, just failed suddenly without warning.
> 
> I bought this adapter hoping it is the right one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0023Y9EQC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
> 
> but I am worried whether it will be or not since there are 2.1mm and 2.5mm connector variants and I have no idea which one I need.


I've heard this one is good: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa.

On the subject, I JUST received my monitor from AccessoriesWhole!! I'm sure it's fine, but I'm a little surprised the US adaptor doesn't come with a grounding pin. Is there another cord I can buy that is grounded? And would you recommend buying the new, more reliable power brick right now? Thanks.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppelin2k*
> 
> I've heard this one is good: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa.
> 
> On the subject, I JUST received my monitor from AccessoriesWhole!! I'm sure it's fine, but I'm a little surprised the US adaptor doesn't come with a grounding pin. Is there another cord I can buy that is grounded? And would you recommend buying the new, more reliable power brick right now? Thanks.


If you have another cord from some old PSU or something, just use it. It's just a generic wall-brick power cord, same as any other one that has that configuration.


----------



## QuantumPion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> If you have another cord from some old PSU or something, just use it. It's just a generic wall-brick power cord, same as any other one that has that configuration.


Generic power supply cords have 3 prongs, these bricks linked only have 2 prongs. My original power brick is three prong.


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumPion*
> 
> I bought it almost exactly one year ago and it is on ~8 hours per day. Never had any problems with it, the power brick just popped and that was that. No unusual buzzing or heat, just failed suddenly without warning.
> 
> I bought this adapter hoping it is the right one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0023Y9EQC/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item
> 
> but I am worried whether it will be or not since there are 2.1mm and 2.5mm connector variants and I have no idea which one I need.


Let us know if that brick works! I'm gonna take delivery on my X-Star soon, and want to be prepared if anything like this happens to me in the future


----------



## sweenytodd

Got my Qnix 2710 today. I bought it from *storewithstory* last Thursday, got the tracking number on Monday then came in today (Tuesday) very fast delivery. I still got charged $36 from DHL though. Monitor has light bleed 3/4 of the screen and no dead pixels. I will certainly fix this after sometime. For now I'm happy with this monitor overclocked to 105 Hz.


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Got my Qnix 2710 today. I bought it from *storewithstory* last Thursday, got the tracking number on Monday then came in today (Tuesday) very fast delivery. I still got charged $36 from DHL though. Monitor has light bleed 3/4 of the screen and no dead pixels. I will certainly fix this after sometime. For now I'm happy with this monitor overclocked to 105 Hz.


Hey there, I'm not sure what timings you used to overclock your monitor, however, if you would like to take a shot at a solid 110 or 120hz overclock, I recommend taking a look at Lawson's thread. His thread has hands down the most up to date information and resources for overclocking this monitor, and in particular he has timings for CRU that are tighter and run on a reduced pixel clock. The pixel clock is usually the limiting factor for your overclock, and as such it would be great to see you try them and improve your overclock! If you don't want to bother plugging in the timings manually he also provides 2 modded drivers (qnix.inf) that you can install which will load up a 60hz/96hz/110hz/120hz profiles and you can swap between them at will. If you already knew this info then that's great! His thread also has a ton of other info and will be updated a heck of a lot more than this thread, so if you want the most recent info about graphics drivers/patchers/utilities/overclocks/color profiles for the QNIX 2710 then this is the page to bookmark!

Congrats on no dead pixels :3

Here's the link:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


----------



## Nomisus

Hey guys. Just wondering if any adapters will work with this. Reason I'm asking because I want to get a PS4 and use it with my monitor but PS4 is HDMI and I don't want to buy another monitor with HDMI. So just wondering if a HDMI to DVI adapter will work with the monitor.


----------



## Darkmader

I just woke up and don't feel like scrolling back but Lawson told us what to get for a power brick replacement both for the UK version or US, just check out his posts.


----------



## DeathAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumPion*
> 
> Generic power supply cords have 3 prongs, these bricks linked only have 2 prongs. My original power brick is three prong.


We aren't talking about the end that plugs into your wall socket. That is different for every country (US has 3, most of Europe and Korea has 2 prongs). The thing you need to know is that you need a standard C14 connector which is the same cable you use to connect your PC PSU to your wall socket. I have many of them in my basement because they don't really break but I get them with many purchases where I don't need them.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> Hey there, I'm not sure what timings you used to overclock your monitor, however, if you would like to take a shot at a solid 110 or 120hz overclock, I recommend taking a look at Lawson's thread. His thread has hands down the most up to date information and resources for overclocking this monitor, and in particular he has timings for CRU that are tighter and run on a reduced pixel clock. The pixel clock is usually the limiting factor for your overclock, and as such it would be great to see you try them and improve your overclock! If you don't want to bother plugging in the timings manually he also provides 2 modded drivers (qnix.inf) that you can install which will load up a 60hz/96hz/110hz/120hz profiles and you can swap between them at will. If you already knew this info then that's great! His thread also has a ton of other info and will be updated a heck of a lot more than this thread, so if you want the most recent info about graphics drivers/patchers/utilities/overclocks/color profiles for the QNIX 2710 then this is the page to bookmark!
> 
> Congrats on no dead pixels :3
> 
> Here's the link:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


Nice "Horn Toot" for Lawson ... it's an informative and well thought out OC thread








BUT sweenytodd is running an Nvidia GPU (780Ti) so he has no need for CRU and should be cautious running the custom AMD/QNIX monitor drivers before he has exhausted all the very simple Nvidia procedures








It's explained pretty well in Lawson's thread








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> I just woke up and don't feel like scrolling back but Lawson told us what to get for a power brick replacement both for the UK version or US, just check out his posts.


*[Here's]* Lawson's power brick recommendation ....








And Forceman is exactly right, no adapter needed, most of us (US) just use an an old/extra PSU cord, 3 pronged (grounded) to the wall. Works great mine came from my backup Corsair PSU


----------



## dpl2007

Hello there just thought I would throw this in: the ebay seller just got back to me saying the reason they put the full amount plus postage was because some orders to uk and Europe got sent back to them and they have no idea why! They put $100 and marked it as a gift and no postage apparently. Any ideas why? Cheers.


----------



## steven88

Does anybody know if Monoprice heavy duty Dual Link DVI cable will work with these PLS panels? I read in the OP that cable quality may or may not help in overclocks. So I wanted to check in to see with you guys.


----------



## Naxxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Does anybody know if Monoprice heavy duty Dual Link DVI cable will work with these PLS panels? I read in the OP that cable quality may or may not help in overclocks. So I wanted to check in to see with you guys.


Any dual link dvi cable will work. I can tell you from my personal experience that switching from the stock cable to a very short and thick premium gold plated professional Dvi cable (30€) changed nothing to me.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Does anybody know if Monoprice heavy duty Dual Link DVI cable will work with these PLS panels? I read in the OP that cable quality may or may not help in overclocks. So I wanted to check in to see with you guys.


Yep, I am using one atm.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> Got my Qnix 2710 today. I bought it from *storewithstory* last Thursday, got the tracking number on Monday then came in today (Tuesday) very fast delivery. I still got charged $36 from DHL though. Monitor has light bleed 3/4 of the screen and no dead pixels. I will certainly fix this after sometime. For now I'm happy with this monitor overclocked to 105 Hz.


how do u fix the light bleeding???


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> how do u fix the light bleeding???


go to first page.. it's the last thing in the whole OCN manual.


----------



## QuantumPion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Let us know if that brick works! I'm gonna take delivery on my X-Star soon, and want to be prepared if anything like this happens to me in the future


Thankfully the brick I ordered linked previously arrived a day early and it works fine. Only downside is the AC cord is very short, and as I expected, is only 2-prong. So to clarify, you need the 12V, 5A adapter with the 2.5mm I.D. DC barrel plug. The 2.1 mm model does not fit.


----------



## Darkmader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Does anybody know if Monoprice heavy duty Dual Link DVI cable will work with these PLS panels? I read in the OP that cable quality may or may not help in overclocks. So I wanted to check in to see with you guys.


I got the 4 foot heavy duty one that everybody gets along with a heavy duty power cable. 96 on the stock and with the new cable it's exactly the same, can't even push it to 100. Lawson bought a $40 something cable which helped him but that's a lot of $$$ for risk/reward. I think it's 90 to 95% the monitor and I know there is a larger sample size with the Qnix but the X-Star (which I have) seems most people can only hit 96 but there have been people that can do 110/120.


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> I got the 4 foot heavy duty one that everybody gets along with a heavy duty power cable. 96 on the stock and with the new cable it's exactly the same, can't even push it to 100. Lawson bought a $40 something cable which helped him but that's a lot of $$$ for risk/reward. I think it's 90 to 95% the monitor and I know there is a larger sample size with the Qnix but the X-Star (which I have) seems most people can only hit 96 but there have been people that can do 110/120.


Ok cool. I'm also thinking of getting a power cable too. I heard the X-Star doesn't come with a 3 prong power cable in the box.

Which power cable thickness should I get from monoprice? They have 18 gauge, 16 gauge, and 14 gauge. I honestly don't know which ones monitor use these days


----------



## bluedevil

Ok, slight issue?





Seems to go in and out. Just noticed this while watching a youtube video.


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Hey guys I recently just purchased a QNIX and over clocked it to 96hz no problem.

I'm running a 7990 and today my 7970 came in. So I hooked everything up and reinstalled the drivers, but realized that CRU has defaulted back to 60hz. So I deleted that profile and attempted to force the monitor to run at 96hz and my screen goes black during the load up.

Why is it that my tri fire setup can't handle 96hz?


----------



## Conundrummm

Is there any way to reset the monitor specs (specifically a x-star)? I just found out my monitor's brightness only decreases but doesn't increase


----------



## bluedevil

Guess I really never noticed it at 96hz....







Now at 90hz. Stable though....


----------



## Hl86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FurtadoZ9*
> 
> Hey guys I recently just purchased a QNIX and over clocked it to 96hz no problem.
> 
> I'm running a 7990 and today my 7970 came in. So I hooked everything up and reinstalled the drivers, but realized that CRU has defaulted back to 60hz. So I deleted that profile and attempted to force the monitor to run at 96hz and my screen goes black during the load up.
> 
> Why is it that my tri fire setup can't handle 96hz?


Use the AMD patcher.


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hl86*
> 
> Use the AMD patcher.


I believe I did... The one here in Toastys guide

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club

However I did install it when I ONLY had my 7990 in... Not with the 7970. Could that possibly be the issue?

I'm re-installing win8 right now, will give this another go around after I get everything else installed.


----------



## the9quad

The latest beta drivers need patcher version 1.25 or if you use AMD APP to encode they need 1.26.

hope that helps, good luck.


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> The latest beta drivers need patcher version 1.25 or if you use AMD APP to encode they need 1.26.
> 
> hope that helps, good luck.


AMD APP? And I'm not on the beta drivers, just 14.4 or whatever the most recent release is.


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FurtadoZ9*
> 
> I believe I did... The one here in Toastys guide
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club
> 
> However I did install it when I ONLY had my 7990 in... Not with the 7970. Could that possibly be the issue?
> 
> I'm re-installing win8 right now, will give this another go around after I get everything else installed.


This was the issue. Just needed to re-patch when I installed the 7970.

Tri-fire @ 96hz no prob


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FurtadoZ9*
> 
> AMD APP? And I'm not on the beta drivers, just 14.4 or whatever the most recent release is.


AMD APP is accelerated parallel processing, it's kind of like CUDA but using OPENCL instead. It can be used to encode vidos in apps that use it, kind of like intel quicksync.


----------



## Ramzinho

i'm pulling the trigger on *This* Later tonight. just need my funds to get loaded. Any thoughts. is this the right panel? and any near experiences with Dream-Seller. ?


----------



## seanp2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> I just woke up and don't feel like scrolling back but Lawson told us what to get for a power brick replacement both for the UK version or US, just check out his posts.


So far I have tried both a HDMI male to dvi dual link female and HDMI female to dual link DVI male but no dice. I tried alot of different things to in terms of various res. Only way I see it working would be through a dvd player of some sort but even then u would have issues. Seems like there is not true way to convert dvi d to hdmi. This appears to be strictly a pc monitor


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i'm pulling the trigger on *This* Later tonight. just need my funds to get loaded. Any thoughts. is this the right panel? and any near experiences with Dream-Seller. ?


any advice regarding this .. preparing the trigger









When i prepare the trigger.. YOU ALL GO silent and thread dies for 11 hours. talk about tough luck lol


----------



## Dejam87

I like mine , 120hz & what not , but man the Sharpness is killing me , kinda blurry








( yes I'm running it @ 1440p 120hz lol)

I wish I can increase the sharpness.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dejam87*
> 
> I like mine , 120hz & what not , but man the Sharpness is killing me , kinda blurry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( yes I'm running it @ 1440p 120hz lol)
> 
> I wish I can increase the sharpness.


is yours an X-Star? and is the model i've ready the right one? i dont wanna waste my 1 year savings


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> is yours an X-Star? and is the model i've ready the right one? i dont wanna waste my 1 year savings


Just pull the trigger already. Even at 60hz stock (which IMO every X-Star/Qnix will OC to about 90hz or so, mine 92hz stable) is miles above that Benq you already have. PLS is where it's at for image quality and OC.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> is yours an X-Star? and is the model i've ready the right one? i dont wanna waste my 1 year savings


That's the right panel. Good luck with overclocking it!

I don't see dream-seller's "perfect pixel" policy. Some sellers guarantee 0 dead / stuck pixels. Some have different policies. I'm not sure what dream-seller's current policy is.


----------



## Ramzinho

Pulled the trigger. First every ebay purchase.. Wish me luck. will report back when i get this







Hopefully a Good girl


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> I ordered the Qnix from green-sum Sunday evening and had a tracking number before I got up for work Monday morning. And now the waiting begins...


Arrived today! It was here before I got home from work Thursday evening. Haven't put it through any testing yet but it's running at 120Hz. Just installed the driver and set up a custom NVCP at 120Hz. No tweaking done yet but it looks pretty darn awesome.


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> Arrived today! It was here before I got home from work Thursday evening. Haven't put it through any testing yet but it's running at 120Hz. Just installed the driver and set up a custom NVCP at 120Hz. No tweaking done yet but it looks pretty darn awesome.


what is this driver everyone is talking about? Is it necessary?


----------



## sweenytodd

qnix or xstar driver. You cannot have 120Hz or whatever OC you made in NvCP or CRU in game. You will still have 60Hz in game.


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> qnix or xstar driver. You cannot have 120Hz or whatever OC you made in NvCP or CRU in game. You will still have 60Hz in game.


Hmm. I seem to be getting 96hz (my overclock) in every game I play without installing the drivers... Maybe it comes with the AMD driver patcher?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> qnix or xstar driver. You cannot have 120Hz or whatever OC you made in NvCP or CRU in game. You will still have 60Hz in game.


You only need the driver to overclock using Nvidia control panel. Using CRU (which you have to use for AMD cards) doesn't require the driver.


----------



## Perseides

I need help/suggestion regarding my purchase. I'd bought my monitor and upon arrival there is a deep scratch on the screen. I'd posted my issue previously.. post #18714

After discussing with the seller, the told me to return back the item back to Korea, and I'd waited about 2 weeks (as you can see from the date of my previous post), they told me they're willing to replace the item, HOWEVER there is a catch:

The thing is previously when they send the item to my place, they required me to pay extra 'remote charges' as my location is far. When I did inquire in the event where the item is damaged upon arrival to my place, who will be paying for the extra shipment, which the supplier told me they will pay for the shipment fee.

Now they are requesting me to pay them another USD$20 as remote charges to send the item back to me, which to me, is ridiculous.

Can anyone advice on how to proceed?

The damaged item


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

I would just pay the 20 bucks and get it over with....Unless of course you have proof they said what they did, then maybe you could fight it....


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perseides*
> 
> I need help/suggestion regarding my purchase. I'd bought my monitor and upon arrival there is a deep scratch on the screen. I'd posted my issue previously.. post #18714
> 
> After discussing with the seller, the told me to return back the item back to Korea, and I'd waited about 2 weeks (as you can see from the date of my previous post), they told me they're willing to replace the item, HOWEVER there is a catch:
> 
> The thing is previously when they send the item to my place, they required me to pay extra 'remote charges' as my location is far. When I did inquire in the event where the item is damaged upon arrival to my place, who will be paying for the extra shipment, which the supplier told me they will pay for the shipment fee.
> 
> Now they are requesting me to pay them another USD$20 as remote charges to send the item back to me, which to me, is ridiculous.
> 
> Can anyone advice on how to proceed?
> 
> The damaged item


That's ridic. I would fight it if I were you. Or just go with another seller.


----------



## Jinru

Now that AMD's FreeSync DisplayPort 1.2a will be VESA standard. What do you guys think of getting an online petition going with help from some Korean OCN members to Qnix/X-Star. Let them know we want a remake of the PLS 1440p overclockable monitors with the a DP 1.2a input when it's available instead of DL-DVI. You guys think they will listen?

For those who aren't familiar with FreeSync
http://www.anandtech.com/show/8008/vesa-adds-adaptivesync-to-displayport-12a-standard-variable-refresh-monitors-move-forward


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Just pull the trigger already. Even at 60hz stock (which IMO every X-Star/Qnix will OC to about 90hz or so, mine 92hz stable) is miles above that Benq you already have. PLS is where it's at for image quality and OC.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> That's the right panel. Good luck with overclocking it!
> 
> I don't see dream-seller's "perfect pixel" policy. Some sellers guarantee 0 dead / stuck pixels. Some have different policies. I'm not sure what dream-seller's current policy is.


Ok they emailed me the tracking number









Oh and Coelacanth: i 've asked them perfect pixel = 0 Dead pixel

here i quote them
Quote:


> Dear ramzinhoo,
> 
> Hi, thank you for the message.
> 
> 1. With Perfect pixel option, 0 dead pixel is possible. Normal ones, up to 5pixels can be found and allowed. We define dead pixel as "bright dot" in the dark. Dark dot and stuck pixel is not considered as dead pixel. BRIGHT DOT ONLY.


----------



## chon

Thanks to this thread, I just ordered my qnix ultimate perfect pixel monitor from storewithstory.

Question - is there a particular dvi-d cable that is recommended for 120hz? Just use the one it comes with? I was looking at a bluerigger 6 ft cable on amazon.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chon*
> 
> Thanks to this thread, I just ordered my qnix ultimate perfect pixel monitor from storewithstory.
> 
> Question - is there a particular dvi-d cable that is recommended for 120hz? Just use the one it comes with? I was looking at a bluerigger 6 ft cable on amazon.


Apparently the cable quality wont make much difference if your Monitor isn't capable of pushing the 120Hz.. but if your browse the thread you will find people saying that the best place to buy such cables from is circuit city


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Perseides*
> 
> I need help/suggestion regarding my purchase. I'd bought my monitor and upon arrival there is a deep scratch on the screen. I'd posted my issue previously.. post #18714
> 
> After discussing with the seller, the told me to return back the item back to Korea, and I'd waited about 2 weeks (as you can see from the date of my previous post), they told me they're willing to replace the item, HOWEVER there is a catch:
> 
> The thing is previously when they send the item to my place, they required me to pay extra 'remote charges' as my location is far. When I did inquire in the event where the item is damaged upon arrival to my place, who will be paying for the extra shipment, which the supplier told me they will pay for the shipment fee.
> 
> Now they are requesting me to pay them another USD$20 as remote charges to send the item back to me, which to me, is ridiculous.
> 
> Can anyone advice on how to proceed?
> 
> The damaged item


Well to be honest my seller put £50 for delivery which is $85 (from korea to UK) ! So $20 does not sound much. I had to pay £105 to UK customs ($178) just to get mine so your situation might not look so bad now? Thank god it was a perfect monitor with no problems on arrival or I think I would of gone mental (having to pay to send it back and get it again might of been like $250!!). The rules should be on the ebay site and the sellers advert - check there but it doesn't sound too much as remember they might have paid $85 for posting it once to you already - hopefully they can claim money back on it too.

I just hope none of us get a monitor that goes wrong some time in the near future!

ps how much was the import charges first time round for you?


----------



## chon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Apparently the cable quality wont make much difference if your Monitor isn't capable of pushing the 120Hz.. but if your browse the thread you will find people saying that the best place to buy such cables from is circuit city


Thanks, rep for you.

Didn't Circuit City close down though? Haha.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chon*
> 
> Thanks, rep for you.
> 
> Didn't Circuit City close down though? Haha.


i don't know why did i say circuit city when i meant monoprice. i think because i got crazy good deals off circuit city while they were shutting down i always mix them up


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chon*
> 
> Thanks to this thread, I just ordered my qnix ultimate perfect pixel monitor from storewithstory.
> 
> Question - is there a particular dvi-d cable that is recommended for 120hz? Just use the one it comes with? I was looking at a bluerigger 6 ft cable on amazon.


Many people in the thread have found that the shorter the cable the better. Many people have gone with 3' cables and seems to have helped marginally.

I would say try it out first with the stock cable, and if it doesn't work, then look at alternatives. The monoprice high quality dual layer DVI cables are a popular choice, but I've also seen many people get better results with the stock cable vs. the monoprice cables.


----------



## zeppelin2k

So, my new QNIX has been hurting my eyes a bit. It might be the smaller text (my eyes are terrible), but I've also noticed that whites are much whiter on this monitor compared to my old one (which was almost a cream color). Seems like the gamma is much different, and the colors in general. Time to change the color profile, but I'm a bit confused.. just want some clarification.

First of all, using the color sustainer program is the best way now, as linked in the OP? I assume that after picking the monitor and resolution, you pick the "mode" and associate a color profile you've downloaded. However, there's no 96hz (what I'm running) under modes. Is that a problem? Also, how do I backup my current color profile? Thanks.

Edit: Am I correct in assuming the profile "CalibratedDisplayProfile" in C:\WINDOWS\System32\Spool\Drivers\Color is my current profile?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppelin2k*
> 
> Edit: Am I correct in assuming the profile "CalibratedDisplayProfile" in C:\WINDOWS\System32\Spool\Drivers\Color is my current profile?


Thats where the color profiles are stored. If you want a 96hz calibrated profile, you can get one from here:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=4791371&postcount=855

p.s. make sure monitor is no more than 12 clicks brightness if you have eye fatigue. The qnix defaults are higher than that and if thats what you are using, no wonder.


----------



## zeppelin2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Thats where the color profiles are stored. If you want a 96hz calibrated profile, you can get one from here:
> 
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=4791371&postcount=855
> 
> p.s. make sure monitor is no more than 12 clicks brightness if you have eye fatigue. The qnix defaults are higher than that and if thats what you are using, no wonder.


Thank you. I'm using it at only 4 clicks brightness... not sure how a lot of profiles are using 12-18, haha. Anyway, I'll try that 96Hz 5000k profile you linked, but I'm a bit unsure about how to use the color sustainer program, as there ins't really a guide anywhere. How do I load in the new profiles?


----------



## blued

To install color profile, right click it and install. Then go to control panel > color management, tick 'use my settings for this device', then add profile from list. Re color sustainer, pretty straightforward (although I do not use it). Just select your monitor from drop down list, then select resolution, then mode (res @hz), then associate it with the color profile of your choice.


----------



## zeppelin2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> To install color profile, right click it and install. Then go to control panel > color management, tick 'use my settings for this device', then add profile from list. Re color sustainer, pretty straightforward (although I do not use it). Just select your monitor from drop down list, then select resolution, then mode (res @hz), then associate it with the color profile of your choice.


Color sustainer was not picking up the resolution/refresh rate I had, which is why I was confused. I've just been using windows color, as you explained, changing profiles by selecting new defaults. Thanks. Can't tell too much of a difference, but I'll play around with different profiles and find a good place to test them. Unfortunately most profiles are at 6500k, and it seems 5000k will be better for eyestrain.


----------



## m4tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chon*
> 
> Thanks, rep for you.
> 
> Didn't Circuit City close down though? Haha.


SystemMax (tigerdirect.com, compusa.com) bought circuitcity brand name in 2012. They re-launched circuitcity.com which was pretty much tigerdirect.com with a red color scheme. Circuitcity.com now points to tigerdirect.com


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppelin2k*
> 
> Thank you. I'm using it at only 4 clicks brightness... not sure how a lot of profiles are using 12-18, haha. Anyway, I'll try that 96Hz 5000k profile you linked, but I'm a bit unsure about how to use the color sustainer program, as there ins't really a guide anywhere. How do I load in the new profiles?


No guide anywhere? I've included a pretty comprehensive readme with the application...

Also, http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=4813132&postcount=104

Are you pressing the correct detect buttons to detect more refresh rates? If you are, then please provide a screenshot to show me the issue as no one else seems to have come across it before.


----------



## zeppelin2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No guide anywhere? I've included a pretty comprehensive readme with the application...
> 
> Also, http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=4813132&postcount=104
> 
> Are you pressing the correct detect buttons to detect more refresh rates? If you are, then please provide a screenshot to show me the issue as no one else seems to have come across it before.


That's the guide I was looking for, but you're right, it's extremely simple, and that's how I thought it worked. I've attached a screenshot though.. after pressing every detect button and looking through options, there is no 96Hz option, despite running at 96Hz currently. I'm probably overlooking something awfully simple, which is embarassing... Also, I don't see any readme (as you can see in the folder). Thanks!



Btw, thank you yas for all the color profiles. The 5000K @96Hz has definitely helped eye strain on this new monitor. No one else seems to prefer 5000K.


----------



## chaoscontrol

Hi guys, I got a problem. My Qnix runs fine at 110Hz when theres only 2 monitors attached. However, when I attach my projector through HDMI as a third monitor, I get artifacts and have to go down to 92Hz before they are gone.

Anyone else experience this with a R9 290?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> Hi guys, I got a problem. My Qnix runs fine at 110Hz when theres only 2 monitors attached. However, when I attach my projector through HDMI as a third monitor, I get artifacts and have to go down to 92Hz before they are gone.
> 
> Anyone else experience this with a R9 290?


well, you are pushing the 290 past it's pixel clock limit or darn close....


----------



## chaoscontrol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> well, you are pushing the 290 past it's pixel clock limit or darn close....


Hmm, I have no idea how to calculate this or what the limit is. I got setup now:

Qnix @ 96Hz - 1440p
HP @ 60Hz - 1080p
BenQ @ 120Hz - 720p (projector)

I'm going to try and disable the HP monitor in Windows, see what happens.


----------



## zeppelin2k

Also, is there any way for me to change the white point of the screen myself, without buying calibration software? I've found the the 5000K profiles are much easier on the eyes, but very redshifted. I think something around 5500K or 6000K would be a good middle ground. But attempting to change colors in windows always reverts the profile to the original stock profile; it seems you can't modify the color of an existing profile. Any way I can set the white point of some of the profiles found on here?


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppelin2k*
> 
> Also, is there any way for me to change the white point of the screen myself, without buying calibration software? I've found the the 5000K profiles are much easier on the eyes, but very redshifted. I think something around 5500K or 6000K would be a good middle ground. But attempting to change colors in windows always reverts the profile to the original stock profile; it seems you can't modify the color of an existing profile. Any way I can set the white point of some of the profiles found on here?


You may need a calibrator, but I know for night time viewing I use f.lux to set my displays to 4000k over the course of an hour after the sun sets. Don't have problems sleeping anymore, so that's lovely.


----------



## shadowless

Going to order the Onix for around £200 but trying to work out how much import tax would be in the UK.I have read that asking seller to put it down as $200 you only pay £35 import tax.

Since I have never bought anything that has required import tax either when do I pay this? And to who (eBay add this on)?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadowless*
> 
> Going to order the Onix for around £200 but trying to work out how much import tax would be in the UK.I have read that asking seller to put it down as $200 you only pay £35 import tax.
> 
> Since I have never bought anything that has required import tax either when do I pay this? And to who (eBay add this on)?


Be careful I paid £105 on a £200 monitor. Because they added £50 postage and it's £13.50 parcel force fee too and they add duty then put the vat on the duty postage and value of item! Just go with one of the top sellers maybe someone from the UK who paid less than me







. So yes you want ideally to have just $200 and no postage on the thing. My seller said they used to do that even putting $100 sometimes but some got sent back so they now do full price


----------



## shadowless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Be careful I paid £105 on a £200 monitor. Because they added £50 postage and it's £13.50 parcel force fee too and they add duty then put the vat on the duty postage and value of item! Just go with one of the top sellers maybe someone from the UK who paid less than me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So yes you want ideally to have just $200 and no postage in the thing. My seller said they used to do that even putting $100 sometimes but some got sent back so they now do full price


Thanks, this is what I don't want paying all that extra hopefully someone else from the UK got a better deal and can advise.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadowless*
> 
> Thanks, this is what I don't want paying all that extra hopefully someone else from the UK got a better deal and can advise.


Yer I did a thread got the good advice of going with dream seller then someone said they had sold out and I panic bought one from the cheapest seller and got done by uk customs daylight robbers. See thread here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1488842/qnix-duty-etc#post_22336019 a few days later stock came back and now I'm kicking myself


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quick question. My monitor got a little bit of a scratch on the matte cover. Is there any way to replace it?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> Quick question. My monitor got a little bit of a scratch on the matte cover. Is there any way to replace it?


as far as i 've seen.. No it's not replaceable.


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> as far as i 've seen.. No it's not replaceable.


So the scratch will be there forever now? know of any way to fix it? Like with some car headlight restoration paste?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> So the scratch will be there forever now? know of any way to fix it? Like with some car headlight restoration paste?


maybe a picture would help


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Here they are!


----------



## Ramzinho

Yay i see myself

Try this:


----------



## Slaughtahouse

I know this thread is usually filled with people posting about ordering and what not... but I want to seek the answer of a long time owner.

I've had my Qnix for some time now. 5-6 months? I can't recall. Always 100/96hz. Anyways, a friend of mine has a Qnix as well and hes beginning to get image persistence or something. I'm not sure how long he has had his but this is a new issue for him.

All I want to know is, do old time owners experience any sort of effects over long term?

Thanks


----------



## draw

Okay, I've been lurking on this thread for over a year now. I think I'm going to offer, say, $345 on this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626. Someone dissuade or give me the push over the edge.


----------



## place

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draw*
> 
> Okay, I've been lurking on this thread for over a year now. I think I'm going to offer, say, $345 on this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626. Someone dissuade or give me the push over the edge.


Mine arrived today (got it from green sum and it's not the slim version) and I can't believe how good it looks. I was weighing up the new 28" TN 4k panel or this QNIX and i'm so glad i went for the QNIX.
It's cheaper and the colours are amazing to look at. I haven't tried OCing it just yet but i will soon so hopefully that goes well. I ordered the perfect pixel option from Greensum and it arrived with 0 dead pixels as promised, no backlight bleeding, no marks or scratches and it came in 6 days... from S. Korea to Australia! I'm very very happy with my purchase.

If i had to say anything negitive about the monitor it'd be that i wish it was maybe 24" instead of 27" as 27" is just SOOOO big (coming up from a 21.5") but hey, if you want a massive beautiful screen then i'm sure you'll be very happy with the purchase. And just to re-assure people about the size, it's purely a personal thing for me and even so i'd buy this screen again 10/10.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draw*
> 
> Okay, I've been lurking on this thread for over a year now. I think I'm going to offer, say, $345 on this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626. Someone dissuade or give me the push over the edge.


Do it. You won't regret it. He was taking $330 a few weeks ago, bu the prices have gone up a little since then so I'm not sure what they are accepting now. Great seller though.


----------



## chon

I just got my ultimate perfect pixel from storewithstory this morning. He accepted 325$ after a couple of counter offers.







Can't wait to get it, hopefully he ships super fast like accessorieswhole does. Got my Crossover monitor to Texas in 2 days after sending Paypal.


----------



## dougian

Anyone got a visual comparison of the normal vs the slim version?

Is the slim version any different or just a name?


----------



## chon

Pretty sure they are all "slim." Havent seen 2 different models of the qx2710.


----------



## dougian

Thanks, that's what i thought too.
It just was strange that they were saying that as a feature


----------



## shadowless

If a seller is offer to put the item as a gift and lower the value on the invoice is that a good thing. Buying in the UK and the custom duty tax is like around £100 on top. Doing this would that mean I pay no custom duty tax or just less?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadowless*
> 
> If a seller is offer to put the item as a gift and lower the value on the invoice is that a good thing. Buying in the UK and the custom duty tax is like around £100 on top. Doing this would that mean I pay no custom duty tax or just less?


Well all the guys that got this cheap got it that way ... at customs they add the postage/insurance to the price stated of the object on the import sheet then categorize it...duty is 14 percent of all that then add it all together and 20% is the VAT on top and £13.50 from parcel force (lovely daylight robbers). There is also a threshold of £135 which means its allot cheaper than £136 anyway none of this matters you just need to go with one of the top sellers that someone says they paid £60 or less with - they are the cheapest options. All the best ones are in the first post of this thread and people are talking about them now as well...ones like dream seller etc. . My one was £304 with £105 tax / duty / parcel force admin fee - some people pay almost nothing - gah!

My seller said they had a number of the monitors sent back with no reason when they sent them at a low price and no postage so they started putting full price and postage - I still don't know why they had some that were sent back and they say they don't know why







so I cant recommend my one as the best even though it was the cheapest on ebay.


----------



## Ramzinho

ok my monitor has made it from Korea to China







the ETA on fedex is 25/06/2014 although dream seller said 5 days.. guess i'm just unlucky


----------



## Moridin

Hey guys, I've been on the edge about getting one of these monitors for quite some time now and I have a few questions I hope someone doesn't mind answering.

- If I order this Pixel Perfect QNIX QX2710 Evolution II from Amazon, would I have to pay a ridiculous return fee back to Korea like on eBay still if something ends up being wrong with it? I have horrible luck, and in the back of my mind always worrying I'll get a defective panel. This is pretty much the main reason that's been holding me back from the purchase. (I live in the US)

- Under product description about the monitor it says: "As P67 Chipset mainboard may show Booting skip error, and also the screen may not work out properly." I have an Asus Maximus IV Extreme P67 board, does this mean I will run into problems if I use this monitor with my PC?

- I plan on overclocking this monitor if I do end up purchasing it, and plan on finding out more on how to do this soon. What exactly is required of me to keep the overclock throughout GPU driver changes? I have Nvidia.

- Also, does overclocking this monitor have any bad long-term effects involved? I'm hoping to at least get 96hz out of it.

- Does this monitor come with a warranty at all?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, hope to hear from someone soon!


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ok my monitor has made it from Korea to China
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the ETA on fedex is 25/06/2014 although dream seller said 5 days.. guess i'm just unlucky


Strange. I ordered mine from Newegg. Pixel perfect for 370$ or something. Shipping was free, but it was sent to me UPS Worldwide Express lol.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FurtadoZ9*
> 
> Strange. I ordered mine from Newegg. Pixel perfect for 370$ or something. Shipping was free, but it was sent to me UPS Worldwide Express lol.


I didn't even know that newegg ships worldwide. mine was 340 for pixel perfect free shipping from Korea. My monitor now is in GUANGZHOU CN.. i wonder where that is lol


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I didn't even know that newegg ships worldwide. mine was 340 for pixel perfect free shipping from Korea. My monitor now is in GUANGZHOU CN.. i wonder where that is lol


haha


----------



## anonuser1

FYI, I just bought a 3 year warranty through SquareTrade on a QNIX 2710 purchased on eBay. Using coupon code 'XV7297TYE' it ended up costing me only $32.


----------



## FCqt

I was checking Ebay today and came across a seller claiming he's selling a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 **SE**. A new updated version that will overclock without frameskipping for 299$USD. Of course I have my reserve on this, but I would like to know what others think about it since I'll be buying a QNIX very soon.

Link to ebay item


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FCqt*
> 
> I was checking Ebay today and came across a seller claiming he's selling a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 **SE**. A new updated version that will overclock without frameskipping for 299$USD. Of course I have my reserve on this, but I would like to know what others think about it since I'll be buying a QNIX very soon.
> 
> Link to ebay item


Multi Inputs wont even Overclock


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Multi Inputs wont even Overclock


And more importantly (it's arguable if it's more important) they have 2 frames of input lag,

SE models supposedly have a higher chance for dead pixels too, but this is supposedly a "newer" model.


----------



## seanp2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FCqt*
> 
> I was checking Ebay today and came across a seller claiming he's selling a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 **SE**. A new updated version that will overclock without frameskipping for 299$USD. Of course I have my reserve on this, but I would like to know what others think about it since I'll be buying a QNIX very soon.
> 
> Link to ebay item


that's funny when i do a google search and read the amazon review a buyer warns the true tens will not overclock past 60hz take it with a grain of salt who knows what he actually has...


----------



## zeppelin2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> You may need a calibrator, but I know for night time viewing I use f.lux to set my displays to 4000k over the course of an hour after the sun sets. Don't have problems sleeping anymore, so that's lovely.


Yeah, I may use f.lux to set the monitor temperature throughout the day. But somehow, I feel like that kind of defeats the purpose of calibrating your display. Is there another way to set the white point in windows?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been on the edge about getting one of these monitors for quite some time now and I have a few questions I hope someone doesn't mind answering.
> 
> - If I order this Pixel Perfect QNIX QX2710 Evolution II from Amazon, would I have to pay a ridiculous return fee back to Korea like on eBay still if something ends up being wrong with it? I have horrible luck, and in the back of my mind always worrying I'll get a defective panel. This is pretty much the main reason that's been holding me back from the purchase. (I live in the US)
> 
> - Under product description about the monitor it says: "As P67 Chipset mainboard may show Booting skip error, and also the screen may not work out properly." I have an Asus Maximus IV Extreme P67 board, does this mean I will run into problems if I use this monitor with my PC?
> 
> - I plan on overclocking this monitor if I do end up purchasing it, and plan on finding out more on how to do this soon. What exactly is required of me to keep the overclock throughout GPU driver changes? I have Nvidia.
> 
> - Also, does overclocking this monitor have any bad long-term effects involved? I'm hoping to at least get 96hz out of it.
> 
> - Does this monitor come with a warranty at all?
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated, hope to hear from someone soon!


If the panel is really defective the eBay companies will pay return shipping, you would only have to pay if it wasn't truly defective (pixel errors, for example). Shipping back to Amazon should be free if it is defective; if you just changed your mind you'd have to pay the shipping, but it would be cheaper than sending it to Korea.

For Nvidia, you just need to install the monitor driver, and then you can use Nvidia Control Panel to set the overclock - it's very easy.

Overclocking to 96Hz keeps the pixel clock under the rated speed of the chip, so there shouldn't be any long-term affect. However, I don't think people have really been overclocking them long enough to say for sure yet - if by long-term you mean more than a year or so.

There is probably a Korean warranty for the monitor, but I doubt you'd be able to take advantage of it. Most sellers offer a warranty of some kind, usually 30 days but osme claim 1 year. If you are really worried about it you can get a Square Trade warranty for about $50, which is 3 years of coverage.


----------



## SinfulRoad

Keep in mind, many QNIX users have and/or soon approaching the 1 year mark of ownership. I'll have had mine for one year in like a month or whatever, but what I can say is that I have noticed no adverse affects running 96hz and 110 hz 24/7 overclock. I'm still able to overclock to 120 no problem, no distortion of colors, everything seems fine. I do doubt this monitor will last as some of my old LCD monitors that are over 10 years I think and running fine. I'm hoping for 5 years, but time will tell.


----------



## Moridin

I'm really about to hit the place order button on amazon. Can anyone chime in about that P67 problem with these monitors? I have an asus maximus iv extreme p67 board, and hoping someone can clear up if this monitor does work flawlessly with p67 boards.

What the description says about p67 is alarming, and I'd rather not find out it doesn't work after I purchased it.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> I'm really about to hit the place order button on amazon. Can anyone chime in about that P67 problem with these monitors? I have an asus maximus iv extreme p67 board, and hoping someone can clear up if this monitor does work flawlessly with p67 boards.
> 
> What the description says about p67 is alarming, and I'd rather not find out it doesn't work after I purchased it.


I've been reading this thread for months and I have no idea what you're talking about.

I have a P67 motherboard and it works fine.


----------



## Moridin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I've been reading this thread for months and I have no idea what you're talking about.
> 
> I have a P67 motherboard and it works fine.


On the Amazon site under "Important notice for Safe usage" for the monitor it says: As P67 Chipset mainboard may show Booting skip error, and also the screen may not work out properly.

Great to know you aren't experiencing issues with this monitor and P67 though, no idea what that's all about.

By the way, has anyone ordered from a seller named ECOMADE ARENA? That's the seller on amazon I plan to get the pixel perfect from, wondering if people have any experiences with them at all.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> On the Amazon site under "Important notice for Safe usage" for the monitor it says: As P67 Chipset mainboard may show Booting skip error, and also the screen may not work out properly.
> 
> Great to know you aren't experiencing issues with this monitor and P67 though, no idea what that's all about.


I'll have to reboot later on and check this as I've noticed it takes the display a second or 2 longer than all my previous displays to boot, but I have seen my bios screen and now that I think about it it's not up as long as it should be, as if the display takes too long to boot.

If that is an issue I can always delay the bios screen a few settings, there's a setting for it.


----------



## steven88

Okay guys, I just got my X-Star in earlier from Fedex. Bought it from Dream Seller for $299, non pixel perfect, just standard. So far so good with pixels and back light bleeding. However the monitor is sagging towards the right. It's very minor, but its easily noticeable since every you see thru the monitor is tilted sideways too. I tried to slightly bend the stand back the other way, and it appears to be back into place. But is there a certain trick to align the monitor perfectly, without buying an aftermarket stand?

Thanks in advanced.


----------



## cjMason

Got my Qnix just last night. Very happy with it, in perfect condition, I'm only having 1 irritating problem. I've followed the guides to the letter on overclocking, checked dozens of websites and double-checked, but I cannot get http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping to go over 60fps or 60hz.

I've been trying to get it to 96hz in both NvCP and CRU and according to many tutorials and guides I have done everything correctly in both these programs. I installed the .inf file through device manager, installed the latest patcher, tried using CRU with the extension block disabled/enabled and blank-extension.dat imported, I even uninstalled GeForce Experience. Whilst my games can definitely go over 60fps, I have no confirmation my monitor refresh rate is keeping up with it whatsoever. Maybe it's wishful thinking, but I find it hard to believe this qnix is incapable of going over 60hz









This is where I purchased it from, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CI3EQA2 and I'm using the DVI-D dual link cable, which I have tried in both DVI-D ports on my GTX 780.

Please does anyone have any idea what I'm doing wrong? It would be most appreciated!


----------



## anonuser1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjMason*
> 
> Got my Qnix just last night. Very happy with it, in perfect condition, I'm only having 1 irritating problem. I've followed the guides to the letter on overclocking, checked dozens of websites and double-checked, but I cannot get http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping to go over 60fps or 60hz.
> 
> I've been trying to get it to 96hz in both NvCP and CRU and according to many tutorials and guides I have done everything correctly in both these programs. I installed the .inf file through device manager, installed the latest patcher, tried using CRU with the extension block disabled/enabled and blank-extension.dat imported, I even uninstalled GeForce Experience. Whilst my games can definitely go over 60fps, I have no confirmation my monitor refresh rate is keeping up with it whatsoever. Maybe it's wishful thinking, but I find it hard to believe this qnix is incapable of going over 60hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I purchased it from, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CI3EQA2 and I'm using the DVI-D dual link cable, which I have tried in both DVI-D ports on my GTX 780.
> 
> Please does anyone have any idea what I'm doing wrong? It would be most appreciated!


After uninstalling GeForce Experience, did you do all the steps again? I had to start from scratch after uninstalling experience.


----------



## cjMason

I did indeed uninstall Geforce experience and retried from step 1. No luck


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cjMason*
> 
> I did indeed uninstall Geforce experience and retried from step 1. No luck




Try playing with the settings. I got mine valid 110Hz at testufo.


----------



## cjMason

Yeah I've tried every refresh rate from 60hz-120hz. At 120hz I have very noticeable green lines flickering on my screen, and @ 110hz there are less frequent green lines tearing in after a while. 105hz I don't experience any artifacts that I'm aware of, but regardless of all these settings testufo still remains a valid 60hz, sometimes even ranging from 55hz when I first start my computer. This is really annoying :/


----------



## steven88

I went ahead and got my X-star non pixel perfect finalized at 100hz OC. I was hoping to get 120hz, but that didn't go too well....massive green lines when testing 120hz. Then 115hz, still massive green lines, but slightly less than before. 110hz actually tested fine initially in Windows. So I thought waaahoooo....then I fired up BF4, and started to see weird purple lines/dots. Dropped her down to 105hz, and still got the weird purple anomalies. 100hz and it runs PERFECT!! BF4 looks FREAKING amazing at 100hz.

BTW, is there an actual X-Star Monitor Driver? I only found the QNIX Monitor Driver in the OP. I was still able to OC my monitor just fine without the monitor's driver. I only used NV control panel and the NV patching software found here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23156


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ok my monitor has made it from Korea to China
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the ETA on fedex is 25/06/2014 although dream seller said 5 days.. guess i'm just unlucky


So from Korea to China then to india.. apparently my monitor will go through whole asia before arriving


----------



## the9quad

Three 30% off codes for square trade warranties:

01W400051MJ8206C 01W400051MJDM06T 01W400051MJF7062


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Keep in mind, many QNIX users have and/or soon approaching the 1 year mark of ownership. I'll have had mine for one year in like a month or whatever, but what I can say is that I have noticed no adverse affects running 96hz and 110 hz 24/7 overclock. I'm still able to overclock to 120 no problem, no distortion of colors, everything seems fine. I do doubt this monitor will last as some of my old LCD monitors that are over 10 years I think and running fine. I'm hoping for 5 years, but time will tell.


Good to hear. I'd love to get the statistics on these monitors from owners to see how well the have held up. 6 months, going strong 100hz 24/7.


----------



## Steady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> I'm really about to hit the place order button on amazon. Can anyone chime in about that P67 problem with these monitors? I have an asus maximus iv extreme p67 board, and hoping someone can clear up if this monitor does work flawlessly with p67 boards.
> 
> What the description says about p67 is alarming, and I'd rather not find out it doesn't work after I purchased it.


Yeah I was really about to ask the same question. Any one have issues or noticed anything? "* As P67 Chipset mainboard may show Booting skip error, and also the screen may not work out properly."


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anonuser1*
> 
> After uninstalling GeForce Experience, did you do all the steps again? I had to start from scratch after uninstalling experience.


Must one uninstall GeForce Experience? I don't recall seeing that mentioned in the OP... Under the "My Rig" tab, it shows my refresh rate at 120Hz so I didn't worry about it... Should I?


----------



## Ramzinho

YAY Monitor is in Dubai







so close i can taste it


----------



## xDeceiver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steady*
> 
> Yeah I was really about to ask the same question. Any one have issues or noticed anything? "* As P67 Chipset mainboard may show Booting skip error, and also the screen may not work out properly."


I've got a p67 sabertooth bios ver. 1502 and I've had no issues. I've had my xstar for about a month now.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> YAY Monitor is in Dubai
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so close i can taste it


I can't express this is enought LOLs.. monitor is now in france ... what's wrong with Fedex Shipping routes lol


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I can't express this is enought LOLs.. monitor is now in france ... what's wrong with Fedex Shipping routes lol


I think that monitor has the most destinations / airports visited.







Let us know what's inside that box. lol


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I think that monitor has the most destinations / airports visited.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know what's inside that box. lol


I literally intend to do a full screen shot of the transits it had.. and i'm gonna smell that box pretty deep.. man this monitor has visited more places in 5 days than people do in 50 years lol


----------



## stefanox92

Hi everyobody, i'm sorry for my bad english, but i'm italian.
i'd like to buy a new monitor for my gtx 780 ti, and i saw these korean products.
I focus on QNIX QX2710 evolution 2 but i read that the version with hdmi, dp, had some problems with oc and contrast?
so i'm confused and i don't know which model i've to buy(catleap,qnix,crossover , acheiva)

can you help me in this hard choice?


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stefanox92*
> 
> Hi everyobody, i'm sorry for my bad english, but i'm italian.
> i'd like to buy a new monitor for my gtx 780 ti, and i saw these korean products.
> I focus on QNIX QX2710 evolution 2 but i read that the version with hdmi, dp, had some problems with oc and contrast?
> so i'm confused and i don't know which model i've to buy(catleap,qnix,crossover , acheiva)
> 
> can you help me in this hard choice?


Its true that those Tru10 models are not overclockable and has more input lag. Buy one that has only one input, DVI-D, the most common owned monitors in the club. Buy Qnix or Xstar with only one DVI-D input. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc&_uhb=1


----------



## steven88

Do you guys run your QNIX/X-star at 100% brightness?

There seems to be 30 clicks from min to max brightness. It seems like even at 25 out of 30 clicks, it's not bright enough. 30 out of 30 seems just right....but I've never had to run 100% brightness on any monitor I've owned before. What brightness does everybody run with?


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Do you guys run your QNIX/X-star at 100% brightness?
> 
> There seems to be 30 clicks from min to max brightness. It seems like even at 25 out of 30 clicks, it's not bright enough. 30 out of 30 seems just right....but I've never had to run 100% brightness on any monitor I've owned before. What brightness does everybody run with?


I run it all the way down to the lowest it can go, then bring it up by 2 seconds or so

(4 clicks roughly)


----------



## TamaDrumz76

I posted a while back about my QX2710LED burning out. I just wanted to report back that it's now working again. StoreWithStory (Bruce) took care of me. It took a little while, but he did get a replacement PCB sent out to me (shipping was quick). Originally they had to go back and forth with me to diagnose the problem, then had me take video of problem and upload to youtube. Then the part was out of stock, so once it was back in (and Korean holidays out of the way), it was shipped out. I installed it tonight and it's working great. I'm once again blown away by the quality of the display on this monitor after having to use an old 21.6" Samsung since the Qnix burned out.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TamaDrumz76*
> 
> I posted a while back about my QX2710LED burning out. I just wanted to report back that it's now working again. StoreWithStory (Bruce) took care of me. It took a little while, but he did get a replacement PCB sent out to me (shipping was quick). Originally they had to go back and forth with me to diagnose the problem, then had me take video of problem and upload to youtube. Then the part was out of stock, so once it was back in (and Korean holidays out of the way), it was shipped out. I installed it tonight and it's working great. I'm once again blown away by the quality of the display on this monitor after having to use an old 21.6" Samsung since the Qnix burned out.


What were you doing to burn it out out of interest? Yes is nice we can put a new pcb in though I've not seen a cheap place yet...


----------



## TamaDrumz76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> What were you doing to burn it out out of interest? Yes is nice we can put a new pcb in though I've not seen a cheap place yet...


I just died out on me. When it occurred, I was just in desktop mode on the internet... Nothing special. It was working one minute to not working the next. The PCB was flipping out. Every time I tried powering it on, it would behave stranger and stranger... really quite odd what it was doing, but they sent me a replacement PCB under warranty, so all is good. I might ask him about purchasing some extras JUST IN CASE.

Also... This might be worth a check for some people... When I was replacing the PCB, the 4 screws that hold it in were all quite loose... and these screws ground the PCB (also 2 wires from the panel itself). I couldn't see the thing making the most solid ground with how loose the screws were, so I'm wondering if tightening these screws could provide any better stability while overclocking these monitors. Heck, I was tempted to see if tightening those screws with the original PCB would have solved any problems.


----------



## steven88

I found a 40% off Square Trade coupon here

Code = SRT4R738

I just used it to buy my 3 year ST warranty on my X-Star. Total was $25 and some change ($42 regular price). Sweet deal, considering they pay for shipping both ways.

Coupon is still alive and kicking as far as I know.


----------



## Boosterfire

I've finally installed my Dell stand, here's how it looks!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> I've finally installed my Dell stand, here's how it looks!


Looks fantastic!


----------



## chon

How are you guys purchasing the SquareTrade warranty after already paying for and receiving the monitor? Tried looking on eBay with no luck, and don't see an option for a monitor warranty on their website.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> I've finally installed my Dell stand, here's how it looks!


i think you are starting a thing on this forum now







.. i bet people will be looking for those stands everywhere







.... i know i'll


----------



## moneypowertron

So by finally deciding to let my eyes have a break and coming to terms with compromising colour accuracy, running f.lux for the first time on my 110Hz Qnix reveals some strange colour un-uniformity (what is this? the dark spot). I barely notice it at regular 6700k, but it is there. Seems to partly move around like IPS glow, but there's definitely a bad spot along the lower left side of the display.



Is this just exaggerated IPS glow and backlight bleed brought on by the 2700k colour temp? I'm going to debezel my monitor this weekend, is there anything through the manipulation of the frame that may improve on this, similarly to the tape mod for backlight bleed?

Reducing to 60Hz improves greatly upon it, but I suspect that's mostly due to the added gamma. f.lux won't reduce the colour temp far enough to match where it is at 96 or 110Hz


----------



## Boosterfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i think you are starting a thing on this forum now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. i bet people will be looking for those stands everywhere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... i know i'll


There's a few things to know, though.

Although Dell monitors are VESA compatible, Dell stands are not by default. That is to say, the plate that comes with the monitor is not going to fit with a VESA monitor. The black plate you can see in the picture is actually a product manufactured by Dell as well, but must be purchased separately. It is the adapter plate that originally comes with a laptop docking station (something like this).

From there, the screws that came with the adapter plate were actually too long, and I had to fit washers (I think 1/4 inch) to get everything working well.

The end result is very pleasing, that is for sure. I've mostly worked with Dell monitors at work, and the stands are always pretty good. This particular one has swivel, tilt and height adjustments. The weight of the X-Star also appears to be a perfect fit. The stand uses a spring mechanism in order to control height, and the X-Star seems to weight just enough for the spring to work correctly. Tilt also works correctly. All in all, I spent only about 50$ on this (used stand is about 20$, plate is roughly 10$, plus shipping).


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> There's a few things to know, though.
> 
> Although Dell monitors are VESA compatible, Dell stands are not by default. That is to say, the plate that comes with the monitor is not going to fit with a VESA monitor. The black plate you can see in the picture is actually a product manufactured by Dell as well, but must be purchased separately. It is the adapter plate that originally comes with a laptop docking station (something like this).
> 
> From there, the screws that came with the adapter plate were actually too long, and I had to fit washers (I think 1/4 inch) to get everything working well.
> 
> The end result is very pleasing, that is for sure. I've mostly worked with Dell monitors at work, and the stands are always pretty good. This particular one has swivel, tilt and height adjustments. The weight of the X-Star also appears to be a perfect fit. The stand uses a spring mechanism in order to control height, and the X-Star seems to weight just enough for the spring to work correctly. Tilt also works correctly. All in all, I spent only about 50$ on this (used stand is about 20$, plate is roughly 10$, plus shipping).


i kinda figured that out .. and i've to say saw some sweet awesome Stands on ebay for 10-20$ .. and you can easily with a Drill and a piece of Steel DIY that Intermediate plate for less than 10$







... i'm 100% considering this.


----------



## Acupolyst

I get this when I try to install the modified driver for my Qnix. I have a 770 and I have Nvidia Control Panel and Experience if that makes any difference. I believe I have installed the Pixel Clock Patcher as well. Anyone know what the problem may be?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acupolyst*
> 
> I get this when I try to install the modified driver for my Qnix. I have a 770 and I have Nvidia Control Panel and Experience if that makes any difference. I believe I have installed the Pixel Clock Patcher as well. Anyone know what the problem may be?


Yes the driver isnt digitally signed, so you have to google how to reboot your pc without requiring digital signatures. Then you have to reboot that way and install it. after that you can boot normal.


----------



## Acupolyst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Yes the driver isnt digitally signed, so you have to google how to reboot your pc without requiring digital signatures. Then you have to reboot that way and install it. after that you can boot normal.


Thank you, that worked.


----------



## Ramzinho

My monitor arrived to my country. Not in my Hands yet. I'm preparing for HUGE customs though.

Behold the Longest weirdest Shipping Route In History


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> My monitor arrived to my country. Not in my Hands yet. I'm preparing for HUGE customs though.
> 
> Behold the Longest weirdest Shipping Route In History


Haha I've had a similar route but without India and Dubai. Mabrook and enjoy.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Haha I've had a similar route but without India and Dubai. Mabrook and enjoy.


how much customs you paid?


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chon*
> 
> How are you guys purchasing the SquareTrade warranty after already paying for and receiving the monitor? Tried looking on eBay with no luck, and don't see an option for a monitor warranty on their website.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chon*
> 
> How are you guys purchasing the SquareTrade warranty after already paying for and receiving the monitor? Tried looking on eBay with no luck, and don't see an option for a monitor warranty on their website.


You can buy ST warranty after you purchased your ebay item. Just go straight to the ST site and buy it.

For monitor's, it's kind of tricky, but this is what I did. Go to the website and go to "All Plans". Then click "Get a quote". Then select Ebay and it will ask you for an Ebay ID number. Just grab it from your auction listing. It will then spit out a quote for you. Then during checkout, apply the 40% off code. My $299 X-Star was $25 for 3 year warranty, after coupon code. Definitely worth it IMO. Plus you can transfer warranties if you decide to sell it


----------



## stealthassasain

I just received my monitor and it has a flashing red powerlight after a brief blue light, but the screen never powers on. Can anyone shine some light on this issue or did I get a doa unit ?


----------



## Kirasagi

Hi guys just got my monitor, no dead pixels and bb.

I'm trying to calibrate the color but the color keeps changing back immediately to the past calibration. And no it does not reset after a restart, it resets after like a second. I've tried using Color Sustainer and is using some random calibration profile and when I click file->start it keeps going back and forth to the past and new calibration.

Any ideas? I am using another monitor. I have a 7970 and I've patched it already.


----------



## lukelev07

Anyone have experience buying third-party stands for this monitor. THe default one is crap-tier. I was looking for one, what is the best alternative ?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boosterfire*
> 
> I've finally installed my Dell stand, here's how it looks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukelev07*
> 
> Anyone have experience buying third-party stands for this monitor. THe default one is crap-tier. I was looking for one, what is the best alternative ?


the guy above me did.i think you can pretty much buy any Dell stand or close to the dimension on the vesa mount and mod it your Self


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealthassasain*
> 
> I just received my monitor and it has a flashing red powerlight after a brief blue light, but the screen never powers on. Can anyone shine some light on this issue or did I get a doa unit ?


Captain Obvious here. Did you turn it on? I only ask this because the flashing red light normally indicates it's in standby. IOW, power available but the monitor is not turned on...


----------



## stealthassasain

I mean unless they changed they the universal logo for power, I have definitely tried turning it on and off. I tried it with several dual link dvi cables and machines, but after some reading the issue might be that they are all dvi-i instead of dvi-d. Is that a possibility for the screen not turning on ? I would imagine that I would at least see a no signal response, but the panel appears to have zero power going to it.


----------



## Kirasagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealthassasain*
> 
> I mean unless they changed they the universal logo for power, I have definitely tried turning it on and off. I tried it with several dual link dvi cables and machines, but after some reading the issue might be that they are all dvi-i instead of dvi-d. Is that a possibility for the screen not turning on ? I would imagine that I would at least see a no signal response, but the panel appears to have zero power going to it.


I had this issue also. Go to resolution menu and on mutiple displays click extend these displays (you should see your monitor here). If this doesn't work your probably plugging in the dvi cable on the slot slot on ur PC.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kirasagi*
> 
> Hi guys just got my monitor, no dead pixels and bb.
> 
> I'm trying to calibrate the color but the color keeps changing back immediately to the past calibration. And no it does not reset after a restart, it resets after like a second. I've tried using Color Sustainer and is using some random calibration profile and when I click file->start it keeps going back and forth to the past and new calibration.
> 
> Any ideas? I am using another monitor. I have a 7970 and I've patched it already.


Close the multiple instances of Color Sustainer / any other applications which might be enforcing color profiles.

As you might know, Color Sustainer enforces color profiles so it would conflict with other instances / software that does so as well.


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Whens est arrival Ram?


----------



## Captaincaveman

I have 3 x 290, and I'm thinking about buying 2-3 qnix/x-star monitors.
The 290 has only 2 DVI's and if I understand correctly, I'll need to use HDMI for a third monitor which the preferred (OCable) monitor models don't have.
Am I limited to 2 monitors then or can I connect a monitor to one of the other 290 cards instead of the "main" one?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FurtadoZ9*
> 
> Whens est arrival Ram?


It's here



























































































. i freaked out when i saw it the hit on the box. but no scratches happened to the monitor. there is no panel play...No dead pixels Noticed yet. i just want to know how to check for backlight bleeding ?


----------



## Jamaican Reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> It's here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i freaked out when i saw it the hit on the box. but no scratches happened to the monitor. there is no panel play...No dead pixels Noticed yet. i just want to know how to check for backlight bleeding ?










Finally you got your monitor,after the trip it had good to see it turn up without a scratch....


----------



## Ramzinho

Ok. so i don't think i've back light bleeding. the lights in my room can't be taken completely down due to the railed curtains







... this thing is beautiful i've noticed 0 dead pixels so far. i gave it a run on fc3 and crysis. crysis at Everything high 2AF i kept everything above 40FPS and it dipped to 30s in explosions. and in far cry Ultra settings everything was above 45FPS and a bit below 34 in heavy action.

Now guys should i go 290X or wait the new Nvidia line up? i will certainly never be able to afford 700$ GPU when they are out.

And during crysis max temp on my 7970 was 64c


----------



## dougian

So how much were the customs costs?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougian*
> 
> So how much were the customs costs?


I was so happy to pay around 70$ for customs (500EGP).. which is absolutely perfect this brings the monitor to exactly my budget of 400$.

It too a long route but in a very short period of time. the Shipping took 5 working days exactly


----------



## Ramzinho

ok i was trying out battlefield when this happened


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> ok i was trying out battlefield when this happened


~Im not an expert but I think there's an issue with 14.6 beta its in the tutorials are you using the latest patcher? : http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher And I have just upgraded to a 290 it was £200 and its only a tiny bit worse than a 290x which go for £330 upwards! I can get a second one soon as well if I need it but I have not found anything to push it yet as watch dogs has issues going over 60fps right now they need to patch it.


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Ya 14.6 beta is wonky.

Ram, just wait until you over clock it. Literally night and day difference between 60 and 96 hz


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> ~Im not an expert but I think there's an issue with 14.6 beta its in the tutorials are you using the latest patcher? : http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher And I have just upgraded to a 290 it was £200 and its only a tiny bit worse than a 290x which go for £330 upwards! I can get a second one soon as well if I need it but I have not found anything to push it yet as watch dogs has issues going over 60fps right now they need to patch it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FurtadoZ9*
> 
> Ya 14.6 beta is wonky.
> 
> Ram, just wait until you over clock it. Literally night and day difference between 60 and 96 hz


i've not touched anything. haven't calibrated colors have done nothing. it's all stock. i don't know what that issue was. it was like after 10 minutes into the game.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i've not touched anything. haven't calibrated colors have done nothing. it's all stock. i don't know what that issue was. it was like after 10 minutes into the game.


Well I never use beta drivers could be that - you were on 1440p rez and before it was 1080? Could be more VRAM being used. Personally I would not use beta drivers and see if its ok at 1080 for now...


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Well I never use beta drivers could be that - you were on 1440p rez and before it was 1080? Could be more VRAM being used. Personally I would not use beta drivers and see if its ok at 1080 for now...


simply said. i've never liked my GPU since Day 1.. i know it's no as it should be and that's it.. call me whatever you wanna say. but my GPU isn't even close to what i thought a 7970 would be like. heck wife's 950Hz OC 7870XT performs on Par. reason i'm keeping it. there is no such things a RMA here.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> simply said. i've never liked my GPU since Day 1.. i know it's no as it should be and that's it.. call me whatever you wanna say. but my GPU isn't even close to what i thought a 7970 would be like. heck wife's 950Hz OC 7870XT performs on Par. reason i'm keeping it. there is no such things a RMA here.


Roll back to 13.12 drivers as i had issues with 14.6 and 14.4 on BF4...13.12 and all issues are gone


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> simply said. i've never liked my GPU since Day 1.. i know it's no as it should be and that's it.. call me whatever you wanna say. but my GPU isn't even close to what i thought a 7970 would be like. heck wife's 950Hz OC 7870XT performs on Par. reason i'm keeping it. there is no such things a RMA here.


Well like I said I'm getting two 290s (sapphire tri x oc) best money to performance ratio right now. But they are big cards mind but my nzxt can handle them...


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i've not touched anything. haven't calibrated colors have done nothing. it's all stock. i don't know what that issue was. it was like after 10 minutes into the game.


Try 14.4


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FurtadoZ9*
> 
> Try 14.4


using 14.4 stop 80% of games from even starting


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> using 14.4 stop 80% of games from even starting


Strange. But your other monitor is fine?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FurtadoZ9*
> 
> Strange. But your other monitor is fine?


that what happened when i tried 14.4 when it came out.


----------



## revaew

So say I buy:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc&_uhb=1&clk_rvr_id=653701871793

What am I looking at paying for custums and such in the US? What will my final price paid be for the monitor?

thanks


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revaew*
> 
> So say I buy:
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc&_uhb=1&clk_rvr_id=653701871793
> 
> What am I looking at paying for custums and such in the US? What will my final price paid be for the monitor?
> 
> thanks


Free trade between the US and Korea. You get the monitor for what you pay. Some shippers have tried to bill US residents for various fees but they are BS.


----------



## MenacingTuba

If only it said "Read the 1st Post" in the thread title...


----------



## revaew

I did not see the US on the list of taxes/vats/fees by country


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revaew*
> 
> I did not see the US on the list of taxes/vats/fees by country


there is a free trading agreement between korea and US. means that you get stuff from there without worrying about customs/taxes


----------



## moopsy

Hey there,
First post!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> there is a free trading agreement between korea and US. means that you get stuff from there without worrying about customs/taxes


What about EU ?

Am thinking of buying one, what seller would you recommend:
Kinda afraid of the backlight bleed : but thinking of getting the ultimate pixel perfect version.


----------



## Ramzinho

i just got mine from Dream-Seller. i paid total tax + customs of around 60$.. monitor arrived in 5 working days. great seller. no dead pixels, no blb

I bought the X-Star as the Qnix wasn't available the time i bought it. it just arrived today









this changes the way you game... TOTALLY


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i just got mine from Dream-Seller. i paid total tax + customs of around 60$.. monitor arrived in 5 working days. great seller. no dead pixels, no blb
> 
> I bought the X-Star as the Qnix wasn't available the time i bought it. it just arrived today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this changes the way you game... TOTALLY


Did you figure out those issues?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FurtadoZ9*
> 
> Did you figure out those issues?


it not a monitor issue. it'a GPU issue and i dont care.. i;'m changing it soon


----------



## Tibag

Guys, I know the Qnix Ev II is the way to go for maximum overclocking chance, what about the X-Star's? Are they using the same PCB, hence same potential?

Also, I've been lurking this thread for a while but it's been months I haven't followed you. End of last year AW was best value for a proper perfect pixel, is it still the case? I see a lot of you guys going for dream-seller, are they now shipping real perfect pixel's?

Thanks


----------



## Ramzinho

perfect pixel x-star is 200 quid from dream-seller.. just got mine. and it's the same as the Qnix.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Just ordered one. If I'm happy with it I'll probably order 2 more.


----------



## itcharzherp

Evolution II is pretty amazing ,,


----------



## vodafone19

im about to jump on these korean panels. which one is the model i should go with. pretty confusing with all the different types. should i get the evo2 since its newer model? or just get the xstar/qnix 2710. im going to wall mount it if that makes any different on the bezel/stand type.


----------



## anonuser1

Go with the X-Star, it is easier to VESA mount.


----------



## Ajayy

First i'd like to thank everyone for all the information on these monitors, it really helped in the decision process.

I ordered a Qnix 2710 from 2560x1440.com on monday night, and received it on friday morning, what an insane amount of time!

The monitor is great, zero dead pixels and no noticeable blacklight bleed, just finished playing some bioshock infinite and i have to say that at this resolution it is like i was playing the game all over again.

My i5 3570k (4.4ghz) and R9 290 tri-x pumped out an awesome 90-100 fps average on 1440P abosolutely max quality on bioshock infinite.

Definitely worth the money, ill post some screenshots!


----------



## seanp2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vodafone19*
> 
> im about to jump on these korean panels. which one is the model i should go with. pretty confusing with all the different types. should i get the evo2 since its newer model? or just get the xstar/qnix 2710. im going to wall mount it if that makes any different on the bezel/stand type.


i got this one i used 8mm screws to mount to a vesa style...

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/product-reviews/B00BUI44US/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

i love it can't say enough good things about it changed my life


----------



## vodafone19

Isn't it the same monitor as the xstar dp2710. If not what is different from the evo2 and xstar and which is better


----------



## sweenytodd

Yes they are the same and choose whichever you like. Info is on the 1st page, FAQ section.


----------



## sanvara

Just bought the XStar because I want to VESA mount. Ebay had sent me a $20 coupon out of the blue and also had an ebay buck promotion for another $21 off. Ended up $259 shipped after the dust settled. . Picked up a 3 year squaretrade warranty for $25 after using the 40% off coupon. Not too shabby to get it for $284 with a three year warranty. Now I hope fedex doesn't send me a tariff bill


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanvara*
> 
> Just bought the XStar because I want to VESA mount. Ebay had sent me a $20 coupon out of the blue and also had an ebay buck promotion for another $21 off. Ended up $259 shipped after the dust settled. . Picked up a 3 year squaretrade warranty for $25 after using the 40% off coupon. Not too shabby to get it for $284 with a three year warranty. Now I hope fedex doesn't send me a tariff bill


depends on your country.. anywhere but the USA you will get a custom + Taxes bill.. mine wasn't terrible customes were 20$ i.e. 5% and Taxes were 34$ which is 10%.. so not bad.. got mine for 400$ total and that what my budget was.
4


----------



## seanp2501

im spoiled in us no fees...free shipping ah to be an amerikan


----------



## stefanox92

does the version with HDMI (QNIX QX2710 TRUE 10 LED HDMI ) have high lag and isn't oc as the multi input version? (QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPmulti TRUE10)


----------



## Seafodder

I asked this earlier but didn't see any responses: Is it necessary to turn off and/or uninstall GeForce Experience when overclocking the monitor? I ask because there were a couple of posts where someone was having issues getting increased frame rates in games and someone else recommended uninstalling GeForce Experience and re-doing the overclock process (install monitor driver and create custom profiles for the higher refresh rates).

I didn't think GeForce would be an issue as under the "my rig" tab it displays my current resolution as "2560 x 1440, 120Hz" but after seeing the aforementioned posts about uninstalling it, I started wondering... I'm running on a single GTX 680.

Thoughts?


----------



## Ramzinho

the HDMI one doesn't overclock at all.. people had massive faliures with it. plus it has if i remember correctly about 2-3 frames of lag. so stay away from it. the monitor you buy is supplied with the Dual DVI cable and all you need.

Just don't get the multi input and get the WQHD one.


----------



## Thi3f

Hi guys, hope to find someone in here who can help me with my problem








Just ordered my Qnix 2 months ago, so far I'm happy with it just one thing annoys me.
I can overclock the monitor to 90Hz without any problems, but 96Hz won't work. No frameskipping at 96hz but at the top right the colour (about 2 inches wide and goes down to the bottom of the monitor) doesn't seem right, for example the blueish colour of the window from crome looks different, kind of an artifact.
Every other colours are fine, just in chrome or the explorer the colour of the window messed up.
Now i don't know if it's the dvi-cable or if my monitor just can't handle the 96hz.
Tested with a gtx670 and a r9 290, on both cards the problem appears.

You can look at my attached picture, it should clarify the problem a bit








Hope you can help me!


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thi3f*
> 
> Hi guys, hope to find someone in here who can help me with my problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just ordered my Qnix 2 months ago, so far I'm happy with it just one thing annoys me.
> I can overclock the monitor to 90Hz without any problems, but 96Hz won't work. No frameskipping at 96hz but at the top right the colour (about 2 inches wide and goes down to the bottom of the monitor) doesn't seem right, for example the blueish colour of the window from crome looks different, kind of an artifact.
> Every other colours are fine, just in chrome or the explorer the colour of the window messed up.
> Now i don't know if it's the dvi-cable or if my monitor just can't handle the 96hz.
> Tested with a gtx670 and a r9 290, on both cards the problem appears.
> 
> You can look at my attached picture, it should clarify the problem a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you can help me!


Please use lawson67's overclocking profiles found here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club
You may not be using appropriate timings and that discoloration may be a result. I know if I went above 96 using standard or reduced timings using CRU, I would get flickers at the top of my screen. But using his timings I can get to 120 no problem. Also, if you haven't I recommend after choosing your overclock, you should use a color profile on the first post of this thread.


----------



## Thi3f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinfulRoad*
> 
> Please use lawson67's overclocking profiles found here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club
> You may not be using appropriate timings and that discoloration may be a result. I know if I went above 96 using standard or reduced timings using CRU, I would get flickers at the top of my screen. But using his timings I can get to 120 no problem. Also, if you haven't I recommend after choosing your overclock, you should use a color profile on the first post of this thread.


In the thread you mentioned he didn't change the timings at all for 96hz... Tried his 120hz timings but half the monitor is flackering green








I thought the dvi cable might be the problem cause many people got to 120hz using another cable. But I don't know if such a graphical issue i get is a cable related problem...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanvara*
> 
> Just bought the XStar because I want to VESA mount. Ebay had sent me a $20 coupon out of the blue and also had an ebay buck promotion for another $21 off. Ended up $259 shipped after the dust settled. . Picked up a 3 year squaretrade warranty for $25 after using the 40% off coupon. Not too shabby to get it for $284 with a three year warranty. Now I hope fedex doesn't send me a tariff bill


That's Smart Shopping ... Enjoy









For those of you still shopping, DON'T MISS this deal ... it's an auction for a new Pixel Perfect PLS (single-input) Qnix 27" QX2710 ... WITH NO RESERVE from Lawson's favorite seller, "storewithstory"! I'm guessing may go as low as $260 - $280 ... good luck









http://www.ebay.com/itm/221472077707?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stefanox92*
> 
> does the version with HDMI (QNIX QX2710 TRUE 10 LED HDMI ) have high lag and isn't oc as the multi input version? (QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPmulti TRUE10)


If it's not a PLS/single input DVI-D don't get it if you want to have overclocks WITHOUT frame dropping ...









See my post *[HERE]*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> I asked this earlier but didn't see any responses: Is it necessary to turn off and/or uninstall GeForce Experience when overclocking the monitor? I ask because there were a couple of posts where someone was having issues getting increased frame rates in games and someone else recommended uninstalling GeForce Experience and re-doing the overclock process (install monitor driver and create custom profiles for the higher refresh rates).
> 
> I didn't think GeForce would be an issue as under the "my rig" tab it displays my current resolution as "2560 x 1440, 120Hz" but after seeing the aforementioned posts about uninstalling it, I started wondering... I'm running on a single GTX 680.
> 
> Thoughts?


It's a mixed bag ... in the past (over 4mos+ ago) some people were having trouble with GeForce Experience and it required a workaround (see Lawson67 *HERE*). I'm not clear on what problems you think? GE is causing? But recently I've heard of no complaints, and it should not be causing you any problems! Personally I don't use GeForce Experience as I like to manually fine tune all my settings, try a "clean" re-install from step one without GE, I bet you won't miss it ...










You might also checkout Lawson's thread *[HERE]*


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thi3f*
> 
> In the thread you mentioned he didn't change the timings at all for 96hz... Tried his 120hz timings but half the monitor is flackering green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the dvi cable might be the problem cause many people got to 120hz using another cable. But I don't know if such a graphical issue i get is a cable related problem...


You could try another cable, I'm not using the one the monitor came with because it wouldn't screw into my gpu or monitor. But keep in mind, unless the cable was poorly made, there shouldn't be a difference between DVI cables because they're digital.


----------



## tesqui

So, who's the most reliable ebay seller for these monitors? I've heard some bad things about accessorieswhole.

What about green-sum what is the consensus on them?

Or am I just crazy and there all pretty much the same?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tesqui*
> 
> So, who's the most reliable ebay seller for these monitors? I've heard some bad things about accessorieswhole.
> 
> What about green-sum what is the consensus on them?
> 
> Or am I just crazy and there all pretty much the same?


They're all pretty much the same. I've bought from both green-sum and accessorieswhole and have had no problems with them.


----------



## Ramzinho

i've to say .. dream -seller was amazing to work with too.


----------



## Ronalddus

Ordered yesterday my Qnix from accesoirreswhole.
Hoping for little blb and high refresh rates.

Wish me luck









Thanks alot for all this information posted in this thread. It has been an amazing help









EDIT: It already has been shipped also. Expected arrival on thursday. THat would be awesome


----------



## deeveeance

Alright, I am going to order my monitor this week, and I am having some conflicts in posts...

I keep reading about NOT getting the multiple input versions, but this monitor here, sold by accessorieswhole is claiming multi-inputs and stable OC-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb

Should I get that one for the same price as this one?-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710LED-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560x1440-27inch-PC-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

Just want to be able to OC with my r9 290... Have heard amazing things for the price, and I don't want to bite the bullet and get a non-OC-able Monoprice or Asus 27" monitor for much more.


----------



## tzyn

The multi-input devices use frameskipping to handle higher frequencies. So you can set 120hz, but the display will be updated only with 60Hz because every second frame will be skipped (=not shown). That was described many times here. This is the reason why you read about "NOT" getting the multi-input versions. There is no multi-input version with real OC.









So if you want real OC then buy the QNIX QX2710 or X-Star DP2710 DVI-only modell.


----------



## jdstock76

So the one sold on eBay for $299 lists DVI-D. With that OCd to let's say 96 or 120, are those actual OCs or the frame skipping? Seems I read in this thread a while back someone showed that they are not true OCs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzyn*
> 
> The multi-input devices use frameskipping to handle higher frequencies. So you can set 120hz, but the display will be updated only with 60Hz because every second frame will be skipped (=not shown). That was described many times here. This is the reason why you read about "NOT" getting the multi-input versions. There is no multi-input version with real OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if you want real OC then buy the QNIX QX2710 or X-Star DP2710 DVI-only modell.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> So the one sold on eBay for $299 lists DVI-D. With that OCd to let's say 96 or 120, are those actual OCs or the frame skipping? Seems I read in this thread a while back someone showed that they are not true OCs.


The single input ones (that only have a DVI input) overclock just fine. It is the multi input ones, and the new True10 models, that frame skip.


----------



## deeveeance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tzyn*
> 
> The multi-input devices use frameskipping to handle higher frequencies. So you can set 120hz, but the display will be updated only with 60Hz because every second frame will be skipped (=not shown). That was described many times here. This is the reason why you read about "NOT" getting the multi-input versions. There is no multi-input version with real OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if you want real OC then buy the QNIX QX2710 or X-Star DP2710 DVI-only modell.


Perfect, thanks for the reply... Just wanted to make sure.

I'll order it today then and report back after OC'ing!


----------



## DiaSin

Looking at buying this. Would my current system be sufficient for gaming at this resolution or should I go crossfire first?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

As of today my opinion has significantly changed concerning this display and possibly all IPS/PLS and related panel types.

I finally played something dark today (a few games actually)....the PLS glow annoyed me to the point It rendered those games unplayable, it's basically like having a TN panel in terms of having certain parts of the display (based on the angle) suffering from issues and it's *insanely white-tinted*.

The bright glow in the lower left and right corners is just awful. I basically traded the top of my screen being darker for the bottom corners being annoyingly brighter........it's really not any different than the viewing angle issues TN panels suffer from.

I tried lowering the brightness, it helped, but it was so dark/faded it was pointless (of course)

I'll mention this just in case. I noticed anything that's really bright is basically extremely oversaturated and blurry, mostly whites. I thought that might be exacerbating the issue.

I've had horribly crappy low-end LCD's without LED backlighting that were immensely better than this, this is just *god-awful*.

The PLS glow basically resembles a TN panel with the brightness cranked up too high and blurs/washes the blacks out, this is what lead me to think that the brightness/color settings aren't actually as great as I thought they were by default.

I also really don't think 27" is large enough for 1440p, and I figured it wasn't large enough long before I bought this display. I have to sit within 1 foot of the display to really benefit from 1440p, any further back and detail is lost.

Either mine has calibration issues, the people who said the blacks are black on this display are insane, or those people just have very low quality standards (or everything combined)

You live and you learn :/


----------



## Nugu

They all come pretty craptasticly set for color and over bright from the factory. Turn down your brightness and follow the setup in the FAQ and try some of the profiles. If you tune it in the "pls glow" is nothing compared to tn panels.

These models are also known for back light bleed, generally on the bottom of the screen like you described, solutions are listed in the FAQ if you want to try them.

Not really sure why you're knocking the size. it's a monitor not a TV, generally you do only sit about 2 feet away.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nugu*
> 
> They all come pretty craptasticly set for color and over bright from the factory. Turn down your brightness and follow the setup in the FAQ and try some of the profiles. If you tune it in the "pls glow" is nothing compared to tn panels.


I was going to try that tomorrow as I still think it is an issue with the calibration.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nugu*
> 
> These models are also known for back light bleed, generally on the bottom of the screen like you described, solutions are listed in the FAQ if you want to try them.


It's not BLB, I have a small amount near the bottom center, it's obvious what PLS glow is compared to BLB. I can move my head and cause PLS glow to vanish or get worse, BLB stays the same regardless. There is an overall extreme amount of white in what should be black, but it's not BLB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nugu*
> 
> Not really sure why you're knocking the size. it's a monitor not a TV, generally you do only sit about 2 feet away.


I think you're confused. Two feet away from this display is *too far*, detail is lost. Somewhere between 27" and 30" while being two feet away should be the sweet spot, or at least that's my opinion.

I don't think 27" should be the common (official) size for 1440p displays, that's just my opinion.


----------



## Dadaum

I'm probably the unlucy guy in this thread.

Earlier on this topic i said that i had a problem in my monitor that made almost half of the screen goes black. After much discussion the seller finally decided to change my screen. Guess what? he sent me the Multi TRUE10.

Well i give up...i will oc and stay with frameskipping.


----------



## kache

Guys, what are the korean monitors that are still overclockable? Only the qx2710?


----------



## Dejam87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> is yours an X-Star? and is the model i've ready the right one? i dont wanna waste my 1 year savings


srry for replaying so late , forgot to check the thread back ._."

but yes it's the same . X-star , I Bought perfect pixeled , but perfect my ass , it had two bloody dead pixels
dam you dream-seller! never gonna buy from him again =|


----------



## kache

The X-STAR DP2710LED is only available Matte, right? No glossy option?


----------



## jdstock76

* Edit


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> The single input ones (that only have a DVI input) overclock just fine. It is the multi input ones, and the new True10 models, that frame skip.


Don't you need DVI-D to go over 60Hz thou? I'm confused. Haha

So no DVI-D?!


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kache*
> 
> The X-STAR DP2710LED is only available Matte, right? No glossy option?


i think that's what I got. It is definitely glossy...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321226150944


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> The single input ones (that only have a DVI input) overclock just fine. It is the multi input ones, and the new True10 models, that frame skip.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kache*
> 
> Guys, what are the korean monitors that are still overclockable? Only the qx2710?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Don't you need DVI-D to go over 60Hz thou? I'm confused. Haha
> 
> So no DVI-D?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Forceman is right as far as we know ... see my post *[HERE]* also click "proof" links









*BUT* ... seller "accessorieswhole" looks like they are going "All-In" with the SE (second edition) model of the AH-VA multi-input True10's ...

Claiming they have a new board *AND will overclock without Frame-Skipping*









I'll believe it when there are some legitimate reviews out there like TFTCentral.
Read the "Entire" new product description from accessorieswhole... *[HERE]*
Especially towards the end under ... "Support Overclocking Refresh Rate"









*EDIT: 8/20/14* ... We now have preliminary proof that the True10 Multi model, not the DPmulti model ...
WILL OC to 85Hz! see *HERE*
*96Hz and higher still produces Major "Frame Dropping"*








Also there is no cure for the noticeable input lag in FPS gaming due to the "scaler" inherent in the True10 models








...


----------



## NineteenSC2

Wondering if someone can help me here. My x-star clocked at 120hz on the following test: www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

I took a picture of the screen with my cellphone camera and the picture matches what seems to be the "good" example. Is there anything else I should monitor before being completely at ease that the monitor did indeed OC to 120 hz successfully?


----------



## gobblebox

I just received my QNIX QX2710 Evolution II Matte yesterday (Purchased from MNW Global on Amazon - Ordered Thursday) and removed the back panel to pull out the stand neck (for vesa wall mounting) & insert some poly-styrofoam as evenly as possible in all of the "support pad" squares to evenly distribute pressure on the panel. I haven't even gotten to test it out yet, and I won't get to test it until Monday when I finally get my i7 4790k (the anticipation is killing me)! I'm running a Sapphire Tri-X OC r9 290 that I got for a steal of deal on eBay, so I'm hoping that overclocking this beast will actually yield the fps i'm shooting for @ ultra qualities in games.

One thing I noticed is that at the bottom of the monitor, there is a ~2mm gap between the screen and the bezel (the top edge of the bezel) with a span of 1-1.5 inches horizontally. This is the only section of the entire monitor that has this gap. Is this going to result in backlight bleed or have any impact on the picture quality? What could be causing only this section to have this separation? There isn't anything noticeably wrong with how I reassembled it, but I could've missed something. Could I just double over some electrical tape to fill the gap, or what do y'all recommend? As soon as I get to test this bad boy out, I'll post pictures & a review of it.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Don't you need DVI-D to go over 60Hz thou? I'm confused. Haha
> 
> So no DVI-D?!


No, you are correct, they do require DL DVI-D, but since that's what they all have I just shorthanded it to DVI. The important thing is that they only have the single input.


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> I just received my QNIX QX2710 Evolution II Matte yesterday (Purchased from MNW Global on Amazon - Ordered Thursday) and removed the back panel to pull out the stand neck (for vesa wall mounting) & insert some poly-styrofoam as evenly as possible in all of the "support pad" squares to evenly distribute pressure on the panel. I haven't even gotten to test it out yet, and I won't get to test it until Monday when I finally get my i7 4790k (the anticipation is killing me)! I'm running a Sapphire Tri-X OC r9 290 that I got for a steal of deal on eBay, so I'm hoping that overclocking this beast will actually yield the fps i'm shooting for @ ultra qualities in games.
> 
> One thing I noticed is that at the bottom of the monitor, there is a ~2mm gap between the screen and the bezel (the top edge of the bezel) with a span of 1-1.5 inches horizontally. This is the only section of the entire monitor that has this gap. Is this going to result in backlight bleed or have any impact on the picture quality? What could be causing only this section to have this separation? There isn't anything noticeably wrong with how I reassembled it, but I could've missed something. Could I just double over some electrical tape to fill the gap, or what do y'all recommend? As soon as I get to test this bad boy out, I'll post pictures & a review of it.


I have an X-Star that has the same gap you're talking about. It doesn't bother me because my panel comes with no backlight bleed. I also read others posting about the gap, so I believe it's normal for these monitors

Hope this helps.


----------



## gobblebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> I have an X-Star that has the same gap you're talking about. It doesn't bother me because my panel comes with no backlight bleed. I also read others posting about the gap, so I believe it's normal for these monitors
> 
> Hope this helps.


Awesome, I was just a little worried that I'd have to take this thing apart yet again. I appreciate the reply!


----------



## gobblebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> I have an X-Star that has the same gap you're talking about. It doesn't bother me because my panel comes with no backlight bleed. I also read others posting about the gap, so I believe it's normal for these monitors
> 
> Hope this helps.


I forgot to ask, do you recall any of the others mentioning any backlight bleed caused specifically from this gap? Thanks again for the quick reply! I can't wait to finally turn this thing on!


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> I forgot to ask, do you recall any of the others mentioning any backlight bleed caused specifically from this gap? Thanks again for the quick reply! I can't wait to finally turn this thing on!


No I don't recall...but that doesn't mean there has been reports. I only started following this thread about 1 month ago....since I just got my monitor about 2 weeks ago

But yeah, I hope you get a good panel. I bought mine from dream seller. Non pixel perfection edition, and its FREAKING AWESOME. No backlight bleed and zero dead pixels. I was so paranoid about the backlight bleed. But mine comes with zero bleed, and only a tiny amount of IPS/PLS glow on the corners. That's a given though, since all IPS/PLS panels exhibit some sort of glow.


----------



## gobblebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> No I don't recall...but that doesn't mean there has been reports. I only started following this thread about 1 month ago....since I just got my monitor about 2 weeks ago
> 
> But yeah, I hope you get a good panel. I bought mine from dream seller. Non pixel perfection edition, and its FREAKING AWESOME. No backlight bleed and zero dead pixels. I was so paranoid about the backlight bleed. But mine comes with zero bleed, and only a tiny amount of IPS/PLS glow on the corners. That's a given though, since all IPS/PLS panels exhibit some sort of glow.


Right on, we'll just have to wait and see! I'll make sure to update the thread when I turn it on. By the way, what GPU are you running with it? How's your FPS & OC (when running a single monitor setup like I will be)? Thanks for the high hopes!


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> Right on, we'll just have to wait and see! I'll make sure to update the thread when I turn it on. By the way, what GPU are you running with it? How's your FPS & OC (when running a single monitor setup like I will be)? Thanks for the high hopes!


Right now I'm running two 770 2gb in SLI. It runs fine in 90% of games, as long as I don't go stupid on the AA. My 770s are also overclocked to +117mhz and 1254mhz in game

Let us know how it goes!


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Right now I'm running two 770 2gb in SLI. It runs fine in 90% of games, as long as I don't go stupid on the AA. My 770s are also overclocked to +117mhz and 1254mhz in game
> 
> Let us know how it goes!


I found that running max AA on a 1440p panel is so useless and just essentially hurts FPS. Per say on BF4, there is absolutely no difference (to me at least) that I can see from 2x MSAA and 4x MSAA... Currently running 2x MSAA w/ 2x GTX 780!


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> I found that running max AA on a 1440p panel is so useless and just essentially hurts FPS. Per say on BF4, there is absolutely no difference (to me at least) that I can see from 2x MSAA and 4x MSAA... Currently running 2x MSAA w/ 2x GTX 780!


Indeed! It's just pointless and an e-peen fest....especially when I see guys complaining about getting good FPS when they are running 8X MSAA or outrageous on their 1440p.


----------



## Ronalddus

Ordered my Qnix on saterday. It was shipped on monday and yesterday evening it arrived at the Fedex depot in the Netherlands. That's pretty quick. I ordered at accessoireswhole, they answered immediately to my questions and have been kind.

It is expected to arrive on thursday. Can't wait


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Does anyone else's Qnix default to 59hz regardless of what you do ?

It always changes to 59hz when I change it to 60 via right clicking background > Screen Resolution >Advanced Settings > Monitor > Monitor Settings


----------



## fredocini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Does anyone else's Qnix default to 59hz regardless of what you do ?
> 
> It always changes to 59hz when I change it to 60 via right clicking background > Screen Resolution >Advanced Settings > Monitor > Monitor Settings


Have you tried applying settings from your nvidia control panel?

Nvidia Control Panel > Change Resolution > Set Custom Resolution > set refresh rate to x amount of hz


----------



## karkee

Hello I have a QX2710 and very happy with it but is there a driver I can install? Because in my nvidia panel now I only have GPU scaling probably because I have no monitor driver... and it changes my sens in games.


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> Hello I have a QX2710 and very happy with it but is there a driver I can install? Because in my nvidia panel now I only have GPU scaling probably because I have no monitor driver... and it changes my sens in games.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/0_100

You'll find your QNIX drivers towards the bottom of the original post


----------



## karkee

Hey I found it indeed and installed it but the problem is I can still only select GPU scaling that causes input lag in games alot







is it possible to have monitor scaling with this monitor?


----------



## kache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> i think that's what I got. It is definitely glossy...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321226150944


"Does not ship to Italy"


----------



## varunpriolkar

Hello, long time lurker here.

I would advice you folks not to buy from dream-seller. I had bought a monitor nearly a month ago, still not delivered. The seller was very reluctant in helping me out and even threatened me not to open a case with ebay.
Meanwhile my 4k monitor (from green-sum), which cost me nearly $ 600 arrived in like 4 days without any hiccups.

I have filed a case in the resolution center. Lets see how it goes. Dream-seller, not even once. I hope ebay refund my money

Here is an image: http://s18.postimg.org/ilu3hzqy1/ebay4.png
(the forum software isn't allowing me to upload an image, or maybe it could be noscript blocking it)

Sorry for the rant but I want others to take a more informed decision.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> No, you are correct, they do require DL DVI-D, but since that's what they all have I just shorthanded it to DVI. The important thing is that they only have the single input.


I figured that's what was meant. And it was confirmed from the review website. Thanks a bunch. Am curious why that would even matter thou? LoL









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> Right now I'm running two 770 2gb in SLI. It runs fine in 90% of games, as long as I don't go stupid on the AA. My 770s are also overclocked to +117mhz and 1254mhz in game
> 
> Let us know how it goes!


I'm running the same set up. Do you play BF4? At stock speeds what are your GPU temps and average FPS? Just curious how much harder my 770s will have to work with the 1440p.


----------



## steven88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> Hey I found it indeed and installed it but the problem is I can still only select GPU scaling that causes input lag in games alot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it possible to have monitor scaling with this monitor?


Sorry I wouldn't know the answer








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I'm running the same set up. Do you play BF4? At stock speeds what are your GPU temps and average FPS? Just curious how much harder my 770s will have to work with the 1440p.


Yeah I play BF4 daily. GPU temps are like 72C for the top card. I am not sure how the game runs at stock speeds....but if I had to guess, it would still be very fast. Right now I'm running at 1254mhz on both 770s. Stock is around 1163mhz. (Asus DC2)

BTW, I play BF4 on High. Ultra would run okay too....but during intense moments, the FPS drops would be noticeable. I run my X-Star at 100hz, so I want it to stay at MINIMUM 100hz, even during intense moments. Ultra will drop below 100fps when shiiit hits the fan. I'd rather have high FPS at all times, than worry about eye candy. I mean the game is a competitive online shooter, who cares if certain stuff doesn't look as good, right?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karkee*
> 
> Hey I found it indeed and installed it but the problem is I can still only select GPU scaling that causes input lag in games alot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it possible to have monitor scaling with this monitor?


No, the single input models don't have a scalar so there is no way to do monitor scaling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Am curious why that would even matter thou?


The multi-input models have additional electronics in them (like a scalar), which prevent overclocking. The panel can likely still be overclocked, you just can't get the signal to it.


----------



## DiaSin

Again... Looking at buying this. Would my current system be sufficient for gaming at this resolution or should I go crossfire (or save for a better single card) first?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Again... Looking at buying this. Would my current system be sufficient for gaming at this resolution or should I go crossfire (or save for a better single card) first?


It's sufficient, but it isn't going to run demanding games at high settings and high frame rates. It really depends on what you consider to be sufficient though. What games, what settings?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> It's sufficient, but it isn't going to run demanding games at high settings and high frame rates. It really depends on what you consider to be sufficient though. What games, what settings?


60 fps, high/ultra.

Take your pick from these, this is what I have installed. You will probably need to view the original on this first one..


----------



## Forceman

You won't see 60 FPS on ultra in BF4 for sure, but you might squeak it out on high. The rest you can probably swing high settings on as long as you don't run MSAA.

Easiest way to find out is buy one.


----------



## tcboy88

any1 can confirm new batch of QX2710 still able to overclock?
(any1 who bought recently?)


----------



## sweenytodd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> any1 can confirm new batch of QX2710 still able to overclock?
> (any1 who bought recently?)


]

Bought mine 3 weeks ago. Stable at 110Hz.


----------



## tzyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *varunpriolkar*
> 
> Hello, long time lurker here.
> 
> I would advice you folks not to buy from dream-seller. I had bought a monitor nearly a month ago, still not delivered. The seller was very reluctant in helping me out and even threatened me not to open a case with ebay.
> Meanwhile my 4k monitor (from green-sum), which cost me nearly $ 600 arrived in like 4 days without any hiccups.
> 
> I have filed a case in the resolution center. Lets see how it goes. Dream-seller, not even once. I hope ebay refund my money
> 
> Here is an image: http://s18.postimg.org/ilu3hzqy1/ebay4.png
> (the forum software isn't allowing me to upload an image, or maybe it could be noscript blocking it)
> 
> Sorry for the rant but I want others to take a more informed decision.


I ordered my Pixel Perfect X-Star DP2710 from dream-seller on Wednesday last week and got it on Monday this week. No dead pixels and no bad backlight bleeding. So for me everything was fine with this seller.


----------



## steven88

Anybody have tips on fixing a dead pixel? My X-Star is about 2 weeks ago....and i just found a dead pixel right smack dab in the center. It wasn't there when I first got it









I made sure its not dust by cleaning the panel. Any particularly good tips I should check out? If nothing works, I'll have to go thru the grueling pain of "dealing with it" until I eventually forget it. The OCD kills me with this kinda stuff


----------



## writer21

Well I had a stuck pixel on my monitor once. I know it's not the same but what I did to fix it was rub it gently for a bit and it worked. Use a soft cloth like the ones for cleaning glasses. Other then that there are sites but it didn't help me might have to live with it.


----------



## f33t

Just received my unit yesterday and love it. No dead/stuck pixels (I ordered the Ultimate from storewithstory) and nothing noticeable in terms of BLB.

I messed around with a few colour profiles last night and realized I'm probably better off just calibrating it on my own...

Edit: After some reading, I'm going to give the Spyder4Express + dispcalGUI a shot.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f33t*
> 
> Just received my unit yesterday and love it. No dead/stuck pixels (I ordered the Ultimate from storewithstory) and nothing noticeable in terms of BLB.
> 
> I messed around with a few colour profiles last night and realized I'm probably better off just calibrating it on my own...
> 
> Edit: After some reading, I'm going to give the Spyder4Express + dispcalGUI a shot.


Do you already have the Spyder4Express, or are you planning to get one?


----------



## Moridin

So I just received my Qnix QX2710 Pixel Perfect from Amazon, and I have a stuck blue pixel right near the center of the screen as well as a white pixel off to the right side. Almost no back light bleeding though.

Also overclocked it to 96hz, installed the QNIX driver and used the full version of the patcher as well and for some reason I get frame skipping in the test. Used Nvidia control panel with stock timings for the overclock.
(Using stock DVI cable that came with the monitor, as well as the stock power cord and US adapter.)

The frame skipping test linked in the first post says "Firefox currently has bugs with this test. Try Chrome." Could this have an effect on the test? I'm just hesitant on downloading Chrome, or another browser in general.

Should I send this monitor back for another? What are your guys thoughts on this?


----------



## sweenytodd

I've been using Firefox for a longtime. I recently switch to Chrome because of the responsiveness. Try Chrome and nothing will lose.


----------



## Robertdt

How difficult is it to remove and replace the stand? Any quality guides out there? Any recommended stands? Thanks.


----------



## leftythrillz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> How difficult is it to remove and replace the stand? Any quality guides out there? Any recommended stands? Thanks.


You can find the monitor dismantling video on Youtube done by David Thompson, also posted on the main page of this thread. Generally speaking, once you get the display separated from the back panel it's as easy as removing two screws from a metal plate. As for the stands, the general consensus is to find an HP stand (used with their ZR series) or a Dell stand (used with their U series). They are both quality stands. Another option on a more pricey side is a monitor mount so that stands don't take up precious desk space if you have multiple monitors. Dual 27" Koreans would be fantastic in such a setup!


----------



## vato3001

Some color profiles made with my X-Rite i1Display Pro and some other profiles.
Mine are all 96Hz profiles and the others are some 96Hz but mostly 60 Hz profiles.

http://www.sockshare.com/file/2B04473096D7C72B.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leftythrillz*
> 
> You can find the monitor dismantling video on Youtube done by David Thompson, also posted on the main page of this thread. Generally speaking, once you get the display separated from the back panel it's as easy as removing two screws from a metal plate. As for the stands, the general consensus is to find an HP stand (used with their ZR series) or a Dell stand (used with their U series). They are both quality stands. Another option on a more pricey side is a monitor mount so that stands don't take up precious desk space if you have multiple monitors. Dual 27" Koreans would be fantastic in such a setup!


Thanks. Is there a comprehensive (as in, start removing stand with this step, complete installing new stand with this step) instruction set you're aware of? The video series is not really organized that way.


----------



## leftythrillz

After doing a little more digging, I found this:






It is pretty thorough, no need for the narrative. Just the basic precautions of taking your time and being careful to not break any tabs or rip any wires out.

Note: the stand being used here is an Eizo stand but any Vesa-compatible stand will work fine such as the aforementioned HP/Dell.


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leftythrillz*
> 
> After doing a little more digging, I found this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is pretty thorough, no need for the narrative. Just the basic precautions of taking your time and being careful to not break any tabs or rip any wires out.
> 
> Note: the stand being used here is an Eizo stand but any Vesa-compatible stand will work fine such as the aforementioned HP/Dell.


Thanks a lot.

For you or anyone else who might know, can removing the panels affect the level of backlight bleed at all? I don't have a lot of it now, and would not want to increase it.


----------



## giltyler

Trying to decide on a 2560 x 1440 and it will be one of the 2 listed below unless there is something better out there.

This is what I want but a little pricy http://www.ebay.com/itm/140919957473?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Or I could save a few dollars with this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11

Another question is perfect pixel worth it ??


----------



## Robertdt

I got mine awhile ago but I only had 1 stuck red pixel that seems to have unstuck now. Can't speak for anyone else's experience though. I didn't buy a pixel perfect version.


----------



## leftythrillz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Trying to decide on a 2560 x 1440 and it will be one of the 2 listed below unless there is something better out there.
> 
> This is what I want but a little pricy http://www.ebay.com/itm/140919957473?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> Or I could save a few dollars with this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/111073520913?pt=US_Computer_Speakers&hash=item19dc7f6d11
> 
> Another question is perfect pixel worth it ??


Save your money and pickup the Qnix. They are both Perfect Pixel from a reputable seller. One big difference, aside from the price, is there is this whole up-to-date thread of people with this exact monitor.

FWIW, I bought my Pixel Perfect from Storewithstory and at the time of my order the shipping was very quick! I am considering buying a second one if I don't decide to get the LG 21:9.


----------



## Fearless1333

Hey guys I apologize if this has already been answered elsewhere, but I could not find anything that specifically addresses my question. If I get two QNIX qx2710 DVI-D only monitors, would I be able to connect both to my GTX 680, which has one DVI-D port and one DVI-I port? If so, would I be able to overclock both like normal?


----------



## tesqui

I don't know a lot about how resolutions work in relation to overclocking the refresh rate. But if i set the res to 1080p will I be able to get a higher refresh rate?

Also how blurry/ weird would this monitor look @ 1080p? Will it be as bad as 720p on a 1080p display?


----------



## leftythrillz

You can grab a DVI-I > DVI-D Dual link adapter for the second monitor. As for overclocking, that setup should not effect you ability to overclock or not. Just make sure you get single input monitors as I'm sure you are aware. Overclocking both on a single card may be pushing the limit of the card however, that I am unsure about.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tesqui*
> 
> I don't know a lot about how resolutions work in relation to overclocking the refresh rate. But if i set the res to 1080p will I be able to get a higher refresh rate?
> 
> Also how blurry/ weird would this monitor look @ 1080p? Will it be as bad as 720p on a 1080p display?


There's basically no point in getting this monitor and running it at 1080p. It won't overclock any better at 1080 that in would at 1440 because it runs at 1440 internally no matter what (since it doesn't have a scalar). You'd either get a 1080p picture with black bars all around, or you'd have it being scaled by the GPU (which would probably look pretty bad).


----------



## Fearless1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leftythrillz*
> 
> You can grab a DVI-I > DVI-D Dual link adapter for the second monitor. As for overclocking, that setup should not effect you ability to overclock or not. Just make sure you get single input monitors as I'm sure you are aware. Overclocking both on a single card may be pushing the limit of the card however, that I am unsure about.


Thanks for the response, could someone weigh in on overclocking two monitors on one GPU pushing the card?


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> For you or anyone else who might know, can removing the panels affect the level of backlight bleed at all? I don't have a lot of it now, and would not want to increase it.


Anyone know?


----------



## Robertdt

The reason I ask about whether removing the panels to mount a vesa stand affecting backlight bleed is because I know people are fixing backlight bleed by adjusting the panels on these monitors. I'm wondering if this is the same panel that is removed in the stand replacement process.


----------



## jcm27

When I install the driver usingNvidia GPU, I get an error saying that the driver is unsigned?


----------



## leftythrillz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> The reason I ask about whether removing the panels to mount a vesa stand affecting backlight bleed is because I know people are fixing backlight bleed by adjusting the panels on these monitors. I'm wondering if this is the same panel that is removed in the stand replacement process.


There is a tape mod that I believe is in the post on the main page of this thread. The panel is the same panel that is removed during the stand removal process. One thing you may want to do, depending on what stage you are at, is loosen the screws on the back ever so slightly, as that may put too much pressure on the panel inside the casing.


----------



## leftythrillz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcm27*
> 
> When I install the driver usingNvidia GPU, I get an error saying that the driver is unsigned?


The driver for this monitor is not signed as it hasn't gone through WQHL testing. Therefore, you will get that pop-up notification, which is normal. The driver, assuming you got it from a reputable site such as here, is perfectly safe.


----------



## Clexzor

Reporting in...both Qnix's running strong still. Used daily and left on. been about a year now. One at 96hz the other at 110hz


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leftythrillz*
> 
> There is a tape mod that I believe is in the post on the main page of this thread. The panel is the same panel that is removed during the stand removal process. One thing you may want to do, depending on what stage you are at, is loosen the screws on the back ever so slightly, as that may put too much pressure on the panel inside the casing.


So could it be said that removing the panels to replace the stand could change the level of backlight bleed from the monitor?


----------



## leftythrillz

Honestly, there are many possibilities. It would just make sense that depending on where your backlight bleed is (if its on the sides and major) it could be that the casing is "flexing" the panel. Then again, unless the "backlight bleed" is major I wouldn't worry much about it. I put the "" because this light could also be IPS/PLS glow which is normal depending on the amount.


----------



## Ronalddus

Mine Qnix was ordered saterday, shipped on monday en delivered thursday. I can test it in a few days en report back to you!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hey guys - I have to just report something:
I GOD DAMN LOVE THE QNIX QX2710!

Been using it for a few month now and my god is it beautiful.
Each time I get another monitor for review or look at others in the market I look at my QNIX and think: "Damn that was a good buy!"

Can't help but stress how happy I am







!
Here's my colour profile I use daily:
http://d-h.st/wqd


----------



## tesqui

I've never experienced anything higher than 75 hz on any monitor. Will I notice THAT much of a difference on this monitor @ 96hz? Are most people able to get higher than 96hz? Like 110hz?

Also is blur that much of a problem due to the 8ms response time?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tesqui*
> 
> I've never experienced anything higher than 75 hz on any monitor. Will I notice THAT much of a difference on this monitor @ 96hz? Are most people able to get higher than 96hz? Like 110hz?
> 
> Also is blur that much of a problem due to the 8ms response time?


It really varies by how sensitive you are to the higher refresh rate. I know that I was skeptical that I would be able to see a difference (I mostly just wanted a bigger monitor) but I can definitely tell a difference in FPS games like BF4. IT isn't something you can really *see*, but you can feel it. Pretty much everyone can get 96Hz, and I'd say a majority (of people who try) can get 110 with tweaked timings - but that's just a subjective opinion based on comments here, I don't think anyone is keeping stats (the ones in the OP are very old).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tesqui*
> 
> I've never experienced anything higher than 75 hz on any monitor. Will I notice THAT much of a difference on this monitor @ 96hz? Are most people able to get higher than 96hz? Like 110hz?
> 
> Also is blur that much of a problem due to the 8ms response time?


1ms vs 8ms - never seen a difference.

60fps vs 96hs - seen a slightly difference in fluidity, but mainly the restraint of tearing on my screen has been hugely noticeable.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Apparently my Qnix is actually running @ 59.95hz regardless of what I change.

Will this cause issues ?


----------



## f33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Do you already have the Spyder4Express, or are you planning to get one?


Nope.

I saw your comments on how the ColorMunki was more accurate, so I decided to get that instead for an extra $50 (avoided it at first, but found a Canadian retailer on Amazon that had it for $150 + free shipping).

Should arrive next week


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f33t*
> 
> Nope.
> 
> I saw your comments on how the ColorMunki was more accurate, so I decided to get that instead for an extra $50 (avoided it at first, but found a Canadian retailer on Amazon that had it for $150 + free shipping).
> 
> Should arrive next week


Great! Enjoy.


----------



## dougian

So... this guy came with the monitor for a much cheaper price:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qnix-QX2710-27-Slim-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-2560x1440-Matt-/281313095029?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item417f912d75
Anyone got any info on him?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougian*
> 
> So... this guy came with the monitor for a much cheaper price:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-2560x1440-Monitor-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-LED-DVI-D/201071013335?_trksid=p3984.c100052.m2206&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D22943%26meid%3D7936389939257913684%26pid%3D100052%26prg%3D9893%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D221472077707
> Anyone got any info on him?


why? there are same prices from awesome sellers !

*AccessoriesWHole*


----------



## dougian

First of all, sorry but i edited the post, check again the seller









secondly, because from these sellers i can get a perfect pixel for the money AW wants for a normal one..


----------



## Moridin

So, I am trying to get a replacement for my Pixel Perfect Qnix on Amazon from the seller ECOMADE ARENA because I have a stuck blue pixel near the center of my screen. He had me take some pictures of it, and send them to him via email.

He is denying me a replacement because he believes the stuck pixel is purple and not blue. I don't have a very good camera, so I'm trying my best to show him that it is in fact blue.

This is his reply to my two pictures I first sent him:

Begin message

This is Kinam again
Well received your photos.
Unfortunately, that is not stuck pixels.

That is purple color dot, it is like a gray color dot.
purple dot is only visible when background color is black.
White pixel and gray dot is not counted as defective pixels according to Qnix pixel policy.

Pixel means a dot that is combined Red, Green, Blue.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4d/Pixel_geometry_01_Pengo.jpg

For example,
Defective pixel means Red dot is always on --> Red bright pixel.

Wish your kind understanding for this purple color dot.
replacement is not possible for this reason.
As a seller, I can reimburse $15 more or less for this reason, if you want.
but purple color is not the standard defective pixel.

Thank you.
Kinam from Korea.

This is my reply to him:

To ECOMADE ARENA - Amazon Marketplace

Today at 7:55 AM
I know what the Qnix Pixel Perfect Policy is, and my stuck pixel is not purple, it's blue. I do not have a very good camera, I am trying my best to show you that it is in fact blue. I took another picture to try and show you. Please reconsider a replacement Pixel Perfect Qnix for me, Kinam.

The first two pictures are the original ones I sent him, and the third is the one I just sent.

If he denies a replacement for my clearly defective product, am I able to file a claim through Amazon?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Apparently my Qnix is actually running @ 59.95hz regardless of what I change.
> 
> Will this cause issues ?


Windows drivers mate - make sure they're installed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> So, I am trying to get a replacement for my Pixel Perfect Qnix on Amazon from the seller ECOMADE ARENA because I have a stuck blue pixel near the center of my screen. He had me take some pictures of it, and send them to him via email.
> 
> He is denying me a replacement because he believes the stuck pixel is purple and not blue. I don't have a very good camera, so I'm trying my best to show him that it is in fact blue.
> ]


I can see blue myself. Either way he should refund you or pay postage back


----------



## sacasoh

Hello guys, I have some issues with my display (Ultimate Pixel, bought from ebay seller gmarketmall (BCC):

Using Catalyst 14.6 - R9 280x, win 8.1.

I installed it fine, it doesn't have any dead/stuck pixel, and minimal blacklight bleeding. After install, I created a 96hz profile with CRU (I let "include extension block" checked by mistake - and the 96hz was the second from top).

It was all ok until I turned my PC off and booted it the other day: there was some flashing/flickering and "ripping" of the top of the screen, that moved very fast toward the bottom (like th effect of an old CRT being slapped in movies). I reset the timings and went back to 60hz: the same problem persisted on a minor scale.

After that, I used Driver Cleaner, installed the new catalyst (14.6, was on a previos 14.x version), checked the cables (It sure doesn't screw right in the display - a screw is too short - anyway, it is firmly attached), and came back to windows. I had no issues after that, then I overclocked it to 96hz again, there was no ripping in 6hrs of gaming.

Then I went to sleep and today, when I booted the PC, after I made the windows login the screen dimmed while filling with scanlines. *After that, when I rebooted, immediately after the login (I didn't even see the desktop) the display started to show a green screen, white screen, red screen, blue screen, greyscale, different greyscale, and black screen*, like it was a test mode.

*Another point: even when the flickering was bad at 60hz, messing with the cables with all on did nothing, but I didn't see any issues when in BIOS for some minutes, or in Safe Mode at 2560x1440... (can be coincidence, but I find it difficult to believe).*

After restart everything went back to normal, the PC booted ok...

Anyone have any insights on this? If possible, I want to know what the "green screen, white screen, red screen, blue screen, greyscale, different greyscale, and black screen" means, I found it only on a forum talking about a Dell Display...

Thank you!


----------



## pr1me

like this ?






Happened to me twice while messing with the overclocking, then it worked fine after a reboot.
Never happened again after 4 month, so i'm fine for now, but i would like to know the cause.


----------



## sacasoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pr1me*
> 
> like this ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happened to me twice while messing with the overclocking, then it worked fine after a reboot.
> Never happened again after 4 month, so i'm fine for now, but i would like to know the cause.


Yeah, but with other patterns as well (2 kinds of checkerboard). I'm hoping that mine stays working... My biggest fear was the tearing of the screen the other time... I'll shutdown the PC to watch Brazil spank Chile, then I'll report back if it's working alright.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sacasoh*
> 
> Yeah, but with other patterns as well (2 kinds of checkerboard). I'm hoping that mine stays working... My biggest fear was the tearing of the screen the other time... I'll shutdown the PC to watch Brazil spank Chile, then I'll report back if it's working alright.


OT: Don't underestimate Chile and Brazil's very attacking play!
Going to watch that now too! Common Neymar!


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Windows drivers mate - make sure they're installed.


I was following up from a previous message and people might not be aware, I'm not overclocking the Qnix, I'm trying to run it @ 60hz.

I just don't know if running it @ 59.95hz will actually matter vs running it at 60hz.

Edit - I installed the Qnix driver, now when I select 60hz the screen changes flickers for a second, it didn't do this before

But when I check the menu again it says it's running @ 59, but if I select 60 again it doesn't change.

So, perhaps it's now running @ 60 but the list of supported modes defaults to 59.

Yesterday I installed FORCED for the first time and it defaulted to 60hz, but every option in the resolution menu was 59hz, I Was then locked to 59hz when I attempted to choose my res and refresh rate.

Now that I've installed the Qnix driver and chose 60hz, FORCED defaulted to 60hz (which could be simply due to that's my desktop refresh rate and res) but all of the refresh rates from the dropdown box are 59hz.

*Now the issue is if I reboot it's back to 59.95hz.*


----------



## sacasoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sacasoh*
> 
> Yeah, but with other patterns as well (2 kinds of checkerboard). I'm hoping that mine stays working... My biggest fear was the tearing of the screen the other time... I'll shutdown the PC to watch Brazil spank Chile, then I'll report back if it's working alright.


OT: Well, Fred can't play even if his and his family lives were depending on it.

The display flashed green and then red, less than a second before the BIOS screen appeared. Then the PC started ok... SO the color blinking isn't a driver issue, but this screen isn't adboard, so I can't get how it's possible for it to show a "test screen pattern".


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I was following up from a previous message and people might not be aware, I'm not overclocking the Qnix, I'm trying to run it @ 60hz.
> 
> I just don't know if running it @ 59.95hz will actually matter vs running it at 60hz.
> 
> Edit - I installed the Qnix driver, now when I select 60hz the screen changes flickers for a second, it didn't do this before
> 
> But when I check the menu again it says it's running @ 59, but if I select 60 again it doesn't change.
> 
> So, perhaps it's now running @ 60 but the list of supported modes defaults to 59.
> 
> Yesterday I installed FORCED for the first time and it defaulted to 60hz, but every option in the resolution menu was 59hz, I Was then locked to 59hz when I attempted to choose my res and refresh rate.
> 
> Now that I've installed the Qnix driver and chose 60hz, FORCED defaulted to 60hz (which could be simply due to that's my desktop refresh rate and res) but all of the refresh rates from the dropdown box are 59hz.
> 
> *Now the issue is if I reboot it's back to 59.95hz.*


Lol seriously don't worry there...! I have the same thing on 60hz..Why aren't you ocing though!?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sacasoh*
> 
> OT: Well, Fred can't play even if his and his family lives were depending on it.
> 
> The display flashed green and then red, less than a second before the BIOS screen appeared. Then the PC started ok... SO the color blinking isn't a driver issue, but this screen isn't adboard, so I can't get how it's possible for it to show a "test screen pattern".


tried with a different pc?
Also yeah man...No idea what his doing there


----------



## Moridin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I can see blue myself. Either way he should refund you or pay postage back


If he denies a replacement, or refund, should I file a claim on Amazon? I'm still waiting on his response to the last email I sent him and the recent picture I sent. I really don't want it to go that route, but he's leaving me no choice. I purchased a Pixel Perfect so I wouldn't have this problem.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> If he denies a replacement, or refund, should I file a claim on Amazon? I'm still waiting on his response to the last email I sent him and the recent picture I sent. I really don't want it to go that route, but he's leaving me no choice. I purchased a Pixel Perfect so I wouldn't have this problem.


definitely. On Amazon? You'll get your money back no worries or a replacement!


----------



## sacasoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Lol seriously don't worry there...! I have the same thing on 60hz..Why aren't you ocing though!?
> tried with a different pc?
> Also yeah man...No idea what his doing there


I don't have other PC with DVI-D output, but, if it's necessary, Ill go tho safe mode and use the display a whole week...


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I was following up from a previous message and people might not be aware, I'm not overclocking the Qnix, I'm trying to run it @ 60hz.
> 
> I just don't know if running it @ 59.95hz will actually matter vs running it at 60hz.
> 
> Edit - I installed the Qnix driver, now when I select 60hz the screen changes flickers for a second, it didn't do this before
> 
> But when I check the menu again it says it's running @ 59, but if I select 60 again it doesn't change.
> 
> So, perhaps it's now running @ 60 but the list of supported modes defaults to 59.
> 
> Yesterday I installed FORCED for the first time and it defaulted to 60hz, but every option in the resolution menu was 59hz, I Was then locked to 59hz when I attempted to choose my res and refresh rate.
> 
> Now that I've installed the Qnix driver and chose 60hz, FORCED defaulted to 60hz (which could be simply due to that's my desktop refresh rate and res) but all of the refresh rates from the dropdown box are 59hz.
> 
> *Now the issue is if I reboot it's back to 59.95hz.*


My NEC monitor does the same thing. Someone explained a few weeks ago that it is because video is 29.97 FPS, so monitors run at 59.94Hz instead of 60 to sync for video.


----------



## chon

Ordered my monitor from storewithstory and set it up today. Installed qnix drivers and then used the tightened 120hz timings from Lawson, which was giving me a fuzzy line/pixel right in middle of screen. Switched over to Tomcat's timings and it is working perfectly! Thanks everyone.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Lol seriously don't worry there...! I have the same thing on 60hz..Why aren't you ocing though!?


This display already has god-awful gamma/white oversaturation + black's being grey/white issues and I don't want to make the display look worse in general since I can't find a way to lower it while leaving other aspects at acceptable settings.

I was under the impression the blacks would be black on this display, but they're basically grey/white. My old TN panel was significantly better than the Qnix in this aspect. If you combine the blacks being grey issue with PLS Glow it's even worse.

I explained the above to say from what I've read if you OC it'll get even worse, and as I can't even fix the issues at their current level, why make them worse ?

I have tried a slew of different ICC profiles, they all basically just made the whites appear to be another color and/or the blacks barely got any less grey and lots of color definition was sacrificed.

Another reason I haven't OC'd is I'm afraid of hurting the display, there are too many reports in this thread about people going to even 96hz and issues arising. Having said that, I was thinking of at least testing 96hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> My NEC monitor does the same thing. Someone explained a few weeks ago that it is because video is 29.97 FPS, so monitors run at 59.94Hz instead of 60 to sync for video.


If you're implying 60hz actually is 59.95/94 then this makes sense. Although, the option to actually select 59hz doesn't make sense then.


----------



## Fearless1333

Would connecting two overclocked qx2710's to my GTX 680 with one DVI-D port and one DVI-I port stress the GPU too much or at all?


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fearless1333*
> 
> Would connecting two overclocked qx2710's to my GTX 680 with one DVI-D port and one DVI-I port stress the GPU too much or at all?


u wont get 1440p over single DVI


----------



## Fearless1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> u wont get 1440p over single DVI


Both are dual link, just one is DVI-D and one is DVI-I. The monitor will still overclock okay on the DVI-I right? A poster told me that a couple pages ago, not sure myself though


----------



## giltyler

I have decided on the QNIX or X-STAR 27" and will also take the advice in the sticky about Regular over Perfect because even Perfect allows pixel issues and probably just a cash grab.

Now who is the best seller or does it make much difference?

In USA Dallas TX area should any import fees be charged? if yes do the value the item to help with the fee.

Also I say a X star with HDMI 1.4 and Dual link stated as 120Hz capable is that true? skipping of frames?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I have decided on the QNIX or X-STAR 27" and will also take the advice in the sticky about Regular over Perfect because even Perfect allows pixel issues and probably just a cash grab.
> 
> Now who is the best seller or does it make much difference?
> 
> In USA Dallas TX area should any import fees be charged? if yes do the value the item to help with the fee.
> 
> Also I say a X star with HDMI 1.4 and Dual link stated as 120Hz capable is that true? skipping of frames?


No import charges to the US because of the free trade agreement with South Korea.

Multi input monitors don't over clock, no matter what the descriptions say. If you want to overclock, get a DVI only monitor.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> This display already has god-awful gamma/white oversaturation + black's being grey/white issues and I don't want to make the display look worse in general since I can't find a way to lower it while leaving other aspects at acceptable settings.
> 
> I was under the impression the blacks would be black on this display, but they're basically grey/white. My old TN panel was significantly better than the Qnix in this aspect. If you combine the blacks being grey issue with PLS Glow it's even worse.
> 
> I explained the above to say from what I've read if you OC it'll get even worse, and as I can't even fix the issues at their current level, why make them worse ?
> 
> I have tried a slew of different ICC profiles, they all basically just made the whites appear to be another color and/or the blacks barely got any less grey and lots of color definition was sacrificed.
> 
> Another reason I haven't OC'd is I'm afraid of hurting the display, there are too many reports in this thread about people going to even 96hz and issues arising. Having said that, I was thinking of at least testing 96hz.
> If you're implying 60hz actually is 59.95/94 then this makes sense. Although, the option to actually select 59hz doesn't make sense then.


You know you can setup a colour profile - like many of us have done, to help shift the gamma and make it better than at 60hz?
PLS/IPS will have a little worse blacks (unless with a glass screen) vs a TN panel - but the colours of an IPS screen are years forward.
My new bought TV that uses an LG IPS panel has a glass screen in front of it (in order to produce better blacks) - it's absolutely excellent.

Try my profile (I took from a member here, but for the life of me can't remember his name):
http://d-h.st/wqd

Hurting the display will be something minimal - life of the panel won't be affected as much as you think.
People go over 100hz and even have stable 120hz OCs - that's all to do with the OC capabilities and pure luck of the panel - like CPU OC'ing - not everyone is as lucky as others.

As for 60hz = 59.95 = yes that's equivalent - it's like when people complain about 99.95 BCLK vs the 100 they set in the BIOS.

Up to you at the end of the day - but the question would be, why did you spend money on a monitor that you won't OC?
The whole point of the reasoning behind buyignt he QNIX is because it can OC.

You can buy a 60hz 1440p multiple input screen for the same-ish price and that would come with 2-3yrs warranty and from a manufacturer that's local.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fearless1333*
> 
> Would connecting two overclocked qx2710's to my GTX 680 with one DVI-D port and one DVI-I port stress the GPU too much or at all?


I have SLI 680s and thought to try it for you - DVI-I and DVI-D ports both OC to 96hz without frame skipping.
With that said, you CANNOT OC the QNIX without frame skipping when you add more than one on the system.
Ie if you have 2x QNIX or even if you have 1x QNIX and 1x other monitor (ie LG) then your QNIX will frame skip past 60hz. Known "problem" by some. G oogle it, and you'll see someone with 2x QNIX reporting it.
_The above isn't justified - it is a UFO frame skipping problem - edited for future references._

I do remember someone saying: Either port is fine and doesn't make a difference - yet I know one is DVI-D and the other DVI-I. I have mine plugged into the DVI-D port.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chon*
> 
> Ordered my monitor from storewithstory and set it up today. Installed qnix drivers and then used the tightened 120hz timings from Lawson, which was giving me a fuzzy line/pixel right in middle of screen. Switched over to Tomcat's timings and it is working perfectly! Thanks everyone.


Could you share both profile with me? I would be intrigued to truy 120hz myself. I can't go above 110hz and thus have stuck to 96hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I have decided on the QNIX or X-STAR 27" and will also take the advice in the sticky about Regular over Perfect because even Perfect allows pixel issues and probably just a cash grab.
> 
> Now who is the best seller or does it make much difference?
> 
> In USA Dallas TX area should any import fees be charged? if yes do the value the item to help with the fee.
> 
> Also I say a X star with HDMI 1.4 and Dual link stated as 120Hz capable is that true? skipping of frames?


I would go for a seller that offers 0 dead pixels. Some say ULTIMATE some say PERFECT pixel. Just check the eBay description.
Some sellers are better in communication that others and thus that can help - especially for those like me in the UK that pay import tax.
In the US however (not Canada) you DO NOT pay a single penny of import tax - it's completely free as S.Korea and the US have a trade agreement.

As for the Multi-DP (display) models - they are CONFIRMED to NOT OC! Well...they OC to say 120hz, but they frame skip, which essentially means they don't OC, as you're dropping frames every now and then and thus will get black screens whilst gaming at 120hz.


----------



## Moridin

Pretty sure this guys is trying to screw me on this monitor, I honestly don't even want a replacement now... I just want my money back. The guy has given me nothing but trouble trying to deal with this whole situation.

Should I just file a claim on Amazon? I don't even know what to say to his latest message he sent back. Pixel Perfect is supposed to be NO red, blue, or green stuck pixels, whether you can only see it on dark backgrounds or not...

Here is his response to my latest message and picture,

This is Kinam again.
Well, there is some different view on this matter each other.

That is a kind of bruise on the panel. It is only visible in black color background color.
Whether it is blue or purple color, that is not the issue.
We only count defective pixel, R,G,B bright pixel.

Please see defective pixel definition in wiki pedia.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Defective_pixel

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSVtkxKBom7nL2hOuoSBWr_X0MgTOWdpB7Ak3Y1AQC9AYgQS8Bo
http://www.thinkoholic.com/media/2006/02/20/DSC07394.jpg

replacement shipping cost is $150.00
Sorry, I can not accept your replacement request for this purple color bruise.
Otherwise, shipping cost for replacement is buyer's responsibility.

I'd rather partial refund $30.00 for this problem as reimbursement.
If you do not like this monitor, you can sell it to another people.
You can sell it $30 lower price with my partial refund.
and then you can re-order again.

Wish your kind understanding.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Pretty sure this guys is trying to screw me on this monitor, I honestly don't even want a replacement now... I just want my money back. The guy has given me nothing but trouble trying to deal with this whole situation.
> 
> Should I just file a claim on Amazon? I don't even know what to say to his latest message he sent back. Pixel Perfect is supposed to be NO red, blue, or green stuck pixels, whether you can only see it on dark backgrounds or not...
> 
> Here is his response to my latest message and picture,
> 
> This is Kinam again.
> Well, there is some different view on this matter each other.
> 
> That is a kind of bruise on the panel. It is only visible in black color background color.
> Whether it is blue or purple color, that is not the issue.
> We only count defective pixel, R,G,B bright pixel.
> 
> Please see defective pixel definition in wiki pedia.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Defective_pixel
> 
> https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSVtkxKBom7nL2hOuoSBWr_X0MgTOWdpB7Ak3Y1AQC9AYgQS8Bo
> http://www.thinkoholic.com/media/2006/02/20/DSC07394.jpg
> 
> replacement shipping cost is $150.00
> Sorry, I can not accept your replacement request for this purple color bruise.
> Otherwise, shipping cost for replacement is buyer's responsibility.
> 
> I'd rather partial refund $30.00 for this problem as reimbursement.
> If you do not like this monitor, you can sell it to another people.
> You can sell it $30 lower price with my partial refund.
> and then you can re-order again.
> 
> Wish your kind understanding.


File a claim - also make amazon aware that you've posted on forums and furthermore won't be paying $150 for return shipping.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Anyone have recommendations for reasonably priced stands found in the UK for the QNIX?
I think the vertical height isn't enough for me at my desk and thus would like to raise it a little.


----------



## cheami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I have SLI 680s and thought to try it for you - DVI-I and DVI-D ports both OC to 96hz without frame skipping.
> With that said, you CANNOT OC the QNIX without frame skipping when you add more than one on the system.
> Ie if you have 2x QNIX or even if you have 1x QNIX and 1x other monitor (ie LG) then your QNIX will frame skip past 60hz. Known "problem" by some. G oogle it, and you'll see someone with 2x QNIX reporting it.


I have 2 1080p 60hz monitors right now. If I'm understanding you correctly, my QNIX that comes on Tuesday will not able to overclock past 60hz without frame skipping if I have all three monitors plugged in?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cheami*
> 
> I have 2 1080p 60hz monitors right now. If I'm understanding you correctly, my QNIX that comes on Tuesday will not able to overclock past 60hz without frame skipping if I have all three monitors plugged in?


Correct.


----------



## barabom

Hi!
Im thinking of buying a QNIX but i got som questions i can't seem to find the answer to (i suck at searching in forums..)
First one is: Is there any difference between these two screens? Screen 1 and Screen 2. I want to be able to overclock it to 96-120 hz.
And i play cs quite alot, is there a big noticable difference between playing on this screen and a 2ms TN screen?
And at last, will a GTX 560 TI card be enough for playing at 100+ fps on this screen? Currently i get around 200-280 FPS in cs and like 200-400 when i play league of legends.


----------



## Moridin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> File a claim - also make amazon aware that you've posted on forums and furthermore won't be paying $150 for return shipping.


Going to start filing a claim now, never had to do this before so hopefully I say the right thing and this gets resolved.


----------



## Ryder92

Is anyone else having problems with the AMD overclocking software? After following the link mentioned in this thread I am able to download the necessary package but it will not open. Unable to be extracted or unzipped. Using windows 7 ult 64 bit with 7 zip, both are working fine. Any thoughts?


----------



## Fearless1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I have SLI 680s and thought to try it for you - DVI-I and DVI-D ports both OC to 96hz without frame skipping.
> With that said, you CANNOT OC the QNIX without frame skipping when you add more than one on the system.
> Ie if you have 2x QNIX or even if you have 1x QNIX and 1x other monitor (ie LG) then your QNIX will frame skip past 60hz. Known "problem" by some. G oogle it, and you'll see someone with 2x QNIX reporting it.
> 
> I do remember someone saying: Either port is fine and doesn't make a difference - yet I know one is DVI-D and the other DVI-I. I have mine plugged into the DVI-D port.


Thanks so much for trying this for me. I'm not sure if I want to buy a QNIX now at all if this is the case. I did some googling and found this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1446560/qnix-qx2710-dropping-frames-in-dual-monitor-mode

Some people in that thread claim that the QNIX with another monitor attached sometimes is incorrectly reported to be skipping frames by the UFO test if the other monitor is set to a different refresh rate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Windows key + P. Also your NOT skipping frames, the test produces in-accurate results when ran with more than 1 monitor active that has a different refresh rate. This has been gone over a total of 8 times in the main thread. Please go take a look there and you will find your answers and you will stop posting mis-information.
> 
> You could have a 75hz monitor native connected with a 60hz native monitor and the UFO test and the refreshrate multitool will FALSELY report dropped frames.
> 
> EDIT: Search "dropped frames two monitors" or "multi monitors frames" in the Qnix clucb thread.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mdrejhon*
> 
> Yes, both frame skipping tests (Multitool and TestUFO) behaves weird on multimonitor sometimes.
> And applications will often drop frames too, when using multimonitor at different refresh rates, too.
> 
> When using TestUFO Frame Skipping ( www.testufo.com/frameskipping ), make sure you test as the *primary monitor*, and in *Windows Aero mode*, with nothing else running (no apps, no other browser tabs). Then it becomes very reliable in Chome and Opera browsers on the Windows Vista/7/8 platforms.


If you're up to it, could you try connecting two QNIX's on one of your GPUs with the same OC'd refresh rate to see if you still get frameskipping? This would help me a lot and would probably determine whether or not I buy QNIX's at all.


----------



## LJOE

Hello,

I have owned a XSTAR for 4-6 months now running flawlessly with SLI 760's @ 110hz. 2 weeks ago I decided to sell the 760's and buy a single 290x, which I am happy with by the way.

Here is my problem- any overclock to my monitor whether it is 96hz or 110hz plays fine for 20-30 minutes. After playing for a little bit I get the color screens( alternating red, green, blue and white.)

Is my monitor failing when overclocked or is this a AMD problem? never had this problem with the NVidia cards.

Any help will be appreciated


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fearless1333*
> 
> Thanks so much for trying this for me. I'm not sure if I want to buy a QNIX now at all if this is the case. I did some googling and found this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1446560/qnix-qx2710-dropping-frames-in-dual-monitor-mode
> 
> Some people in that thread claim that the QNIX with another monitor attached sometimes is incorrectly reported to be skipping frames by the UFO test if the other monitor is set to a different refresh rate.
> 
> If you're up to it, could you try connecting two QNIX's on one of your GPUs with the same OC'd refresh rate to see if you still get frameskipping? This would help me a lot and would probably determine whether or not I buy QNIX's at all.


ah man - now I remember - I'm being an idiot, sorry.
You'll need to search this thread. I remember having this exact conversation - and someone said the same thing - but then it ended up being a software (that UFO program's fault) - thus the monitors DO overclock - but testing if they OC is something else.
Try searching this thread and sorry for the confusion - my memory is horrible!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Going to start filing a claim now, never had to do this before so hopefully I say the right thing and this gets resolved.


Good luck - to put this into perspective for you:
I bought a QNIX DP model. It clearly states on eBay that it OC's to 120hz.
I was among the first to actually put an order for it.

Another member here got his DP model before me and then confirmed it doesn't OC without skipping frames.
I thus rejected the fedex delivery and didn't open my package.

Told the seller that the same model, bought by another person didn't go above 60hz - and thus the ebay thing was false.
They wanted me to pay $150-200 shipping back.

I refused and opened an eBay claim - after a little while, I got the refund by eBay for false description. Soon after the listing disappeared from eBay.

Sure, I didn't actually have the item and thus couldn't actually say if it was or wasn't - but everyone knows that these come from the same place and thus share the same problems or qualities.

If the description states it - it is false marketing.
It was a perfect pixel model - if it was stated with no dead pixels and came in with one - it's simple the description was faulty - no matter if the pixel that's dead is blue, purple or a damn rainbow colour - it's dead. Should be replaced as per description.

On another note, why did you buy it form Amazon and not from one of the eBay sellers?


----------



## MapRef41N93W

My X-Star now will no longer do anything but Blink red. This literally happened out of the blue. I just moved 2k miles cross country, set up my PC, turned everything on and the monitor was working fine. I noticed that my 2nd GPU was not showing up on Afterburner/GPU-Z even though it appeared to be running fine, so I went in and re-seated it and all of a sudden the monitor would not turn on. Mind you, I did absolutely nothing to do the main GPU.


----------



## Ziox

Just got my X-star from Deamseller, so far 0 dead/stuck pixels. Pretty happy with it so far, vesa mounted it and removed the stub. I painted the bezel flat black, I hate gloss. Backlight bleed is there in the bottom 2 corners but hardly noticeable unless you are looking for back bleed.


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziox*
> 
> Just got my X-star from Deamseller, so far 0 dead/stuck pixels. Pretty happy with it so far, vesa mounted it and removed the stub. I painted the bezel flat black, I hate gloss. Backlight bleed is there in the bottom 2 corners but hardly noticeable unless you are looking for back bleed.


Did you get the "perfect pixel" one or standard?
Was there any additional fee charged?

Will you post up a picture of the monitor with the paint job.


----------



## pr1me

I have 3 monitors connected
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fearless1333*
> 
> If you're up to it, could you try connecting two QNIX's on one of your GPUs with the same OC'd refresh rate to see if you still get frameskipping? This would help me a lot and would probably determine whether or not I buy QNIX's at all.


QX2710 96hz
VS239 60hz
VG236H 60hz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pr1me*
> 
> I have 3 monitors connected
> QX2710 96hz
> VS239 60hz
> VG236H 60hz


excellent, thank you for confirming!


----------



## Moridin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Going to start filing a claim now, never had to do this before so hopefully I say the right thing and this gets resolved.


Claim has been filed. Really hope this goes well, I don't want to be stuck with this monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Good luck - to put this into perspective for you:
> I bought a QNIX DP model. It clearly states on eBay that it OC's to 120hz.
> I was among the first to actually put an order for it.
> 
> Another member here got his DP model before me and then confirmed it doesn't OC without skipping frames.
> I thus rejected the fedex delivery and didn't open my package.
> 
> Told the seller that the same model, bought by another person didn't go above 60hz - and thus the ebay thing was false.
> They wanted me to pay $150-200 shipping back.
> 
> I refused and opened an eBay claim - after a little while, I got the refund by eBay for false description. Soon after the listing disappeared from eBay.
> 
> Sure, I didn't actually have the item and thus couldn't actually say if it was or wasn't - but everyone knows that these come from the same place and thus share the same problems or qualities.
> 
> If the description states it - it is false marketing.
> It was a perfect pixel model - if it was stated with no dead pixels and came in with one - it's simple the description was faulty - no matter if the pixel that's dead is blue, purple or a damn rainbow colour - it's dead. Should be replaced as per description.
> 
> On another note, why did you buy it form Amazon and not from one of the eBay sellers?


I really hate dealing with ebay, I've had nothing but bad luck dealing with them and paypal so I wanted to avoid that whole scene... but then again, my luck really is terrible overall honestly. Thought maybe Amazon would have a better outcome buying on their site since I have better experiences there.

EDIT: Here's my claim I filed towards him:

The monitor I received is not a Pixel Perfect, it has a stuck blue pixel near the center of the screen. The Pixel Perfect monitor is supposed to have NO stuck red, blue, or green pixels. It should not matter whether it is seen on a dark, or light background, there shouldn't be any so this is counted as a defect. In his first email he sent me asking for the pictures, he clearly states that stuck Red, Green, and Blue pixels are counted as a defect for the Pixel Perfect.

I tried to reason with the seller, and sent him pictures of the stuck pixel but he claims it is not blue when it clearly is in the pictures I have sent. I even posted on the overclock.net forums about the stuck pixel as well to get a second opinion, and they see it as blue also. I refuse to pay return shipping for a defective product, and would like a full refund for this product. The seller has given me too much trouble to even consider getting a replacement monitor from him, so I would like my money back.

I am very upset about this whole situation, I do not want to be stuck with this defective product. Please, I would greatly appreciate it if I could get this problem resolved.


----------



## Fearless1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pr1me*
> 
> I have 3 monitors connected
> QX2710 96hz
> VS239 60hz
> VG236H 60hz


Awesome thanks!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Claim has been filed. Really hope this goes well, I don't want to be stuck with this monitor.
> I really hate dealing with ebay, I've had nothing but bad luck dealing with them and paypal so I wanted to avoid that whole scene... but then again, my luck really is terrible overall honestly. Thought maybe Amazon would have a better outcome buying on their site since I have better experiences there.


well...what you are going through in theory is a worse case than dealing with eBay.
You didn't buy from Amazon, you bought from a 3rd party seller, that isn't fulfilled by Amazon. If it was from Amazon directly, then sure Amazon all the way for me!

eBay in this case would have been better, as you can file a claim and eBay takes action if the seller doesn't. Furthermore you can call eBay quite easily to resolve issue - sometimes they can be a pain in the backside, but overall they're brilliant.


----------



## Moridin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> well...what you are going through in theory is a worse case than dealing with eBay.
> You didn't buy from Amazon, you bought from a 3rd party seller, that isn't fulfilled by Amazon. If it was from Amazon directly, then sure Amazon all the way for me!
> 
> eBay in this case would have been better, as you can file a claim and eBay takes action if the seller doesn't. Furthermore you can call eBay quite easily to resolve issue - sometimes they can be a pain in the backside, but overall they're brilliant.


Thought I was going with the better of the two, but I guess I was wrong. I just really hope I don't get stuck with this monitor. If I do get my money back, I've been looking at the Viewsonic VP2770 as an alternative. I watched Menacing Tuba's video review on it, and it seems like an amazing monitor, a bit pricey though but I'm willing to shell out a bit more for a quality product.


----------



## barabom

*Bump D:

Need to buy one today so can someone say which one of the screens that are the correct one?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Thought I was going with the better of the two, but I guess I was wrong. I just really hope I don't get stuck with this monitor. If I do get my money back, I've been looking at the Viewsonic VP2770 as an alternative. I watched Menacing Tuba's video review on it, and it seems like an amazing monitor, a bit pricey though but I'm willing to shell out a bit more for a quality product.


Well the QNIX is an amazing monitor - I wouldn't have posted in this thread again screaming my joy for this monitor if it wasn't the case.
I'm actually dreading the day if it ever stops working.

The thing is - we (people who bought the QNIX), risk buying a monitor that might fail or be defective - but we pay the price in that risk, in order to get a 1440p that's not only affordable but can OC to a ridiculous amount.
To have a 120hz capable monitor at 1440p, you're looking at easily paying double what you pay for the QNIX.
And to be quite honest for me, I rather the QNIX fail 2x on me in 4years, than pay a really expensive monitor (due to the speed that technology and prices move, I wouldn't be surprised if these double-price monitors drop to QNIX level in 2 years time)

So long story short; Yes everyone here takes a risk, but so far most people have gotten better ROI.
I love my monitor, and would definitely buy another if it ever fails. I've had my QNIX for 3 months now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> Hi!
> Im thinking of buying a QNIX but i got som questions i can't seem to find the answer to (i suck at searching in forums..)
> First one is: Is there any difference between these two screens? Screen 1 and Screen 2. I want to be able to overclock it to 96-120 hz.
> And i play cs quite alot, is there a big noticable difference between playing on this screen and a 2ms TN screen?
> And at last, will a GTX 560 TI card be enough for playing at 100+ fps on this screen? Currently i get around 200-280 FPS in cs and like 200-400 when i play league of legends.


Hi there,

The True10 models do NOT OC past 60hz without frame skipping.
The SE model I have not heard of nor know myself.

Is there a difference between 8ms and 2ms? To my eyes and experiences of a 8ms vs 1ms - I've noticed no difference. Too hard for me to tell, whilst playing BF titles.
A TN vs IPS/PLS though - huge difference in colours.

Can you cope with it? Definitely, but not at those FPS numbers - 1440p is a huge leap in graphics over 1080p - you're looking at 1.5x decease (if not more, depending on your VRAM for certain games) of a FPS drop.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> *Bump D:
> 
> Need to buy one today so can someone say which one of the screens that are the correct one?


You want to buy the One input WQHD either Qnix or X-Star. sellers that are reputable . accessoriesWhole, Dream-Seller , Green-Sum.... it's around 299 <-> 340 shipped depending if it's pixel perfect or not.


----------



## Moridin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well the QNIX is an amazing monitor - I wouldn't have posted in this thread again screaming my joy for this monitor if it wasn't the case.
> I'm actually dreading the day if it ever stops working.
> 
> The thing is - we (people who bought the QNIX), risk buying a monitor that might fail or be defective - but we pay the price in that risk, in order to get a 1440p that's not only affordable but can OC to a ridiculous amount.
> To have a 120hz capable monitor at 1440p, you're looking at easily paying double what you pay for the QNIX.
> And to be quite honest for me, I rather the QNIX fail 2x on me in 4years, than pay a really expensive monitor (due to the speed that technology and prices move, I wouldn't be surprised if these double-price monitors drop to QNIX level in 2 years time)
> 
> So long story short; Yes everyone here takes a risk, but so far most people have gotten better ROI.
> I love my monitor, and would definitely buy another if it ever fails. I've had my QNIX for 3 months now.


Don't get me wrong, the overclockability is very appealing and that's why I purchased this monitor. I've never seen anything above 60hz so 96hz was absolutely gorgeous for gaming. So smooth, and absolutely no tearing at ALL with adaptive VSYNC on, even when my frames dipped into the 70's.

Thing is, after this experience with the seller of the Qnix on Amazon it just turned me off of these monitors, I just don't want to deal with foreign sellers over seas. I can easily just drive 15 minutes to Best Buy and purchase the Viewsonic, or another alternative without ANY hassle. If there's a problem, I can easily return it pretty much without any second guessing.

I really hoped this monitor would work out, but I think it might just be too much to risk for me after all. I've never used anything besides a TN 1080p panel as well, so I was just blown away by the colors and the shear resolution as well, absolutely mind blowing and beautiful. My whole experience was pretty much ruined by this seller though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moridin*
> 
> Don't get me wrong, the overclockability is very appealing and that's why I purchased this monitor. I've never seen anything above 60hz so 96hz was absolutely gorgeous for gaming. So smooth, and absolutely no tearing at ALL with adaptive VSYNC on, even when my frames dipped into the 70's.
> 
> Thing is, after this experience with the seller of the Qnix on Amazon it just turned me off of these monitors, I just don't want to deal with foreign sellers over seas. I can easily just drive 15 minutes to Best Buy and purchase the Viewsonic, or another alternative without ANY hassle. If there's a problem, I can easily return it pretty much without any second guessing.
> 
> I really hoped this monitor would work out, but I think it might just be too much to risk for me after all. I've never used anything besides a TN 1080p panel as well, so I was just blown away by the colors and the shear resolution as well, absolutely mind blowing and beautiful. My whole experience was pretty much ruined by this seller though.


Sad to hear that








One bad experience from one poor seller, shouldn't turn you off though!

As far as Vsync - have that always disabled lol


----------



## barabom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> The True10 models do NOT OC past 60hz without frame skipping.
> The SE model I have not heard of nor know myself.
> 
> Is there a difference between 8ms and 2ms? To my eyes and experiences of a 8ms vs 1ms - I've noticed no difference. Too hard for me to tell, whilst playing BF titles.
> A TN vs IPS/PLS though - huge difference in colours.
> 
> Can you cope with it? Definitely, but not at those FPS numbers - 1440p is a huge leap in graphics over 1080p - you're looking at 1.5x decease (if not more, depending on your VRAM for certain games) of a FPS drop.


Ok so if you were to recommend me one which one would you chose then? I just want the cheapest one that will do the job!









If it matters, i need it to be able to get shipped to Sweden


----------



## dpl2007

Well my monitors ok so far not got it past 96 yet but only just done a bit of oc ing. My first annoyance though is I was trying to test it properly with watch dogs and wolfenstien and they both don't go over 60fps! Bah!

Ps I do wonder if a monitor did 60 on frames and 60 black perfectly in between each other it may look really good after all some of the new screens are doing this to reduce blur...not sure though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> Ok so if you were to recommend me one which one would you chose then? I just want the cheapest one that will do the job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it matters, i need it to be able to get shipped to Sweden


I looked on ebay and funnily enough the same seller that sold me his:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Qnix-27-QX2710-Evolution-II-Slim-2560x1440-Monitor-/321376073626?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ad381b79a

I paid £200 incl postage for mine -> so send him an offer $340 = £200, so try to offer him $320, which incl postage would be $340.
Customs was £16 (I told him to mark it down as a gift and lower the value of the item) -> which you'll need to do for lower customs fees.

Took around 6 days to arrive after being posted (mainly customs taking the most time, not the shipping).


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> You want to buy the One input WQHD either Qnix or X-Star. sellers that are reputable . accessoriesWhole, Dream-Seller , Green-Sum.... it's around 299 <-> 340 shipped depending if it's pixel perfect or not.


Is there a good history that the Perfect Pixel is worth the extra money?
Or does that make it easier to file a claim if there is a problem?

And is the Multi True 10 a deal breaker= No overclocking like the one below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb


----------



## LJOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have owned a XSTAR for 4-6 months now running flawlessly with SLI 760's @ 110hz. 2 weeks ago I decided to sell the 760's and buy a single 290x, which I am happy with by the way.
> 
> Here is my problem- any overclock to my monitor whether it is 96hz or 110hz plays fine for 20-30 minutes. After playing for a little bit I get the color screens( alternating red, green, blue and white.)
> 
> Is my monitor failing when overclocked or is this a AMD problem? never had this problem with the NVidia cards.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated


any body have a similar problem like above? Is it possible that my monitor just stopped overclocking?


----------



## giltyler

Everyone wish me luck I just pulled the trigger on a QNIX QX2710 from storewithstory for $334.00
I had messaged several who replied they could do same one for $329 but those offers came too late as I could not contain myself any longer.
So if you are looking to buy $329 may be the best deal for Perfect Pixel from dreamseller and gmarketmall

Perfect Pixel 27" Slim QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor
Free DOA Return/100% Test Before Ship/1Year Warranty


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Everyone wish me luck I just pulled the trigger on a QNIX QX2710 from storewithstory for $334.00
> I had messaged several who replied they could do same one for $329 but those offers came too late as I could not contain myself any longer.
> So if you are looking to buy $329 may be the best deal for Perfect Pixel from dreamseller and gmarketmall
> 
> Perfect Pixel 27" Slim QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor
> Free DOA Return/100% Test Before Ship/1Year Warranty


yeah that's where I bought mine from. Remember if you're outside the US to make sure you tell him to mark as gift + lower value.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Just got mine!
Haven't noticed any dead pixels or bleeding









I do have a problem though, currently using my old hd6970 and had 2 dell u2311h monitors connected which worked fine. However, when I tried to replace one of them with the new x-star, it just wouldn't work.
x-star connected alone, works fine (although unrecognized by windows). When I try to connect one of the old monitors, I get no picture on both of them. When I disconnect either one, the one that's still connected shows my desktop again.
x-star is connected with dvi-d dual link cable that came with it, the dell is connected with the dvi-d single link that I've used for it since I got it.

Any ideas?


----------



## makotech222

Haven't been here in a while, but i have a question. I've had a QNIX for a while at 100hz, but just recently, I noticed that none of my games see that my monitor is set at 100hz in nvidia control panel, and only let me vsync to 60hz. I've already used the Nvidia Pixel Patcher too.


----------



## King PWNinater

Should I waste my money getting a $10 9.9gps DVI cable for a better overclock?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makotech222*
> 
> Haven't been here in a while, but i have a question. I've had a QNIX for a while at 100hz, but just recently, I noticed that none of my games see that my monitor is set at 100hz in nvidia control panel, and only let me vsync to 60hz. I've already used the Nvidia Pixel Patcher too.


It's to do with the Win driver mate- make sure that's installed and then reboot - then all your games will recognize it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Should I waste my money getting a $10 9.9gps DVI cable for a better overclock?


Some have reported better results with "better" DVI-D cables


----------



## sacasoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> any body have a similar problem like above? Is it possible that my monitor just stopped overclocking?


I'm using this display for 4 days.

As per my previous posts, I had this issue using an R9 280x one time before booting in windows (after the login screen) - color screen and checkerboard pattern. Also i had corruption/tearing/artifacts even in 60hz (like an old CRT dying).

I reinstalled the drivers (after cleaning the previous install in safe mode with a driver cleaner software), then patched the driver and used CRU (I forgot to uncheck "use extensions" or whatever the first time), used different timings (393mhz), changed some configs in video options (like, unchecked alternate DVI and reduce bandwidth in Catalyst), and made sure of a nice connection of the cable (the cable screw don't attach to the monitor, it's too short). No issued since this occurred.

I thinki the color screen issue is caused by some GPU signal from AMD drivers (not the drivers though, or else the screen would only show in windows - sure I can be wrong), and my flickering was a faulty cable (I'm hoping), or some internal issue with the display (internal cables, faulty PCB).

Seriously hope that the Display don't die on me, I live in Brazil, *and I paid USD 210,00 just in taxes* for the display, if I need to exchange it, it will take ~4months to send it to KR and back to BR.


----------



## LJOE

Sacasoh,

Thanks for the info. I have already uninstalled and reinstalled drivers, unticked the dvi settings in the amd control panel but nothing seems to help with the monitors overclock. When I run it at 110hz I tighten the timings to give me a pixel clock of 421, that's how I've always ran it.
I am so frustrated because I have gotten used to the 96hz+ refresh rate. Going back to 60 will be very difficult.

If anybody can think of something else I should try please inform.


----------



## itgprk

what does this mean ? and how to switch the monitor back to operation condition ?







with black and white too


----------



## LJOE

@itgprk

That's exactly what happens to me when I play games if the monitor is overclocked. Mine will go back to normal with a restart of my pc


----------



## itgprk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> @itgprk
> 
> That's exactly what happens to me when I play games if the monitor is overclocked. Mine will go back to normal with a restart of my pc


so, the monitor is fine

because i am in mess, i lost my gpu and the motherboard shows A9 code .. and i get this because i am using dvi to hdmi adapter which is not enough to run the monitor, is my conclusion correct ?


----------



## LJOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itgprk*
> 
> so, the monitor is fine
> 
> because i am in mess, i lost my gpu and the motherboard shows A9 code .. and i get this because i am using dvi to hdmi adapter which is not enough to run the monitor, is my conclusion correct ?


I am pretty sure that the monitor goes into that mode when it doesn't like something about the input signal. Why don't you use the provided dvi cable?


----------



## cheami

Got my monitor in today, so far so good. All perfect pixels and overclocks to 120hz completely fine. When I have 2 extra 60hz 1080p monitors active (so 3 total monitors), there is noticeable frame skipping always, including in windows. But also, there is major sluggishness on put 1080p 60hz monitors. When dragging windows around, its extremely noticeable.

Fresh reformatted [email protected] with R9 290x CF. Any reason why? Both 1080p monitors are using single linked DVIs.

I can sort of deal with the small frame drops on the 1440p 120hz, but the smoothness is laughable on the 1080p 60hzs.


----------



## itgprk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> I am pretty sure that the monitor goes into that mode when it doesn't like something about the input signal. Why don't you use the provided dvi cable?


my 770 is broken

i bought dvi to hdmi adapter, and it seems does not work, because as you said the monitor is oc'ed, so the adapter would not perform as the gpu

where the oc is done with os, so i do not know why the adapter does not work, over 60hz should not be a problem ..

also, my motherboard shows A9, which i think the good read is A0. i do not know how to fix the problem which is related to the bios.


----------



## LJOE

After searching this thread I found the solution to my problem. It turns out that my XSTAR does not like an overclocked 290x. @60hz I can run my 290x at 1200 core and 1600 memory, but higher refresh rates put my monitor in test mode randomly.


----------



## sacasoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> any body have a similar problem like above? Is it possible that my monitor just stopped overclocking?


As per my previous post, I had the color screen before entering Windows (and a time half a second before BIOS POST). Also I had some flickering/tearign od the screen (looking like a faulty connection or if the screen was dying)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> After searching this thread I found the solution to my problem. It turns out that my XSTAR does not like an overclocked 290x. @60hz I can run my 290x at 1200 core and 1600 memory, but higher refresh rates put my monitor in test mode randomly.


Nice. I was checking, and I get the color screen every time before the BIOS POST (just 2 colors, as it takes less than1 sec to get to POST), so sure it's a input thing.

Maybe you can find some reduced timings that makes your display OCable again.


----------



## LJOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sacasoh*
> 
> As per my previous post, I had the color screen before entering Windows (and a time half a second before BIOS POST). Also I had some flickering/tearign od the screen (looking like a faulty connection or if the screen was dying)
> Nice. I was checking, and I get the color screen every time before the BIOS POST (just 2 colors, as it takes less than1 sec to get to POST), so sure it's a input thing.
> 
> Maybe you can find some reduced timings that makes your display OCable again.


I can still run the xstar at 110hz but I have to run the 290x at stock clocks to achieve it.


----------



## itgprk

the story is i got my monitor from ebay, so the shipping was by fedex and when i started to oc the monitor was nice to 80hz, i think i did not go above this rate because i was happy ..

then i shipped my rig and the monitor with local company, so they destroyed my parts .. i lost 770 and the monitor is going into color mode

i am afraid to loose the monitor too ..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> After searching this thread I found the solution to my problem. It turns out that my XSTAR does not like an overclocked 290x. @60hz I can run my 290x at 1200 core and 1600 memory, but higher refresh rates put my monitor in test mode randomly.


as i understood from you ealier, that it could be setting problem

so i have to operate it with a gpu, and not with dvi to hdmi adapter which i think is not performing enough interface for perfect operation


----------



## w35t

I'll be overclocking mine today! Kind of wish it was glossy though, =/


----------



## Darkmader

I'm confused about the Square Trade Warranty as people were listing off coupons. I take it after you've had the monitor after 30 days the warranty is gone w/o it, but with square trade say 3 years, if it dies they will pay the shipping and the seller then will give you the same monitor back? Of course it'll change with the xstar/qnix as these are phasing out and in 1 year time we'll probably be stuck with the 10 bit non-oc panels by then but it's better than not having a working monitor at all. If all that is the case I'm going to jump on it as you can purchase the SQ Warranty even after your 30 days are up, I just hope the coupons are alive as I think it was only $25 for 3 years.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itgprk*
> 
> the story is i got my monitor from ebay, so the shipping was by fedex and when i started to oc the monitor was nice to 80hz, i think i did not go above this rate because i was happy ..
> 
> then i shipped my rig and the monitor with local company, so they destroyed my parts .. i lost 770 and the monitor is going into color mode
> 
> i am afraid to loose the monitor too ..
> as i understood from you ealier, that it could be setting problem
> 
> so i have to operate it with a gpu, and not with dvi to hdmi adapter which i think is not performing enough interface for perfect operation


go to 96hz, for optimal video playback


----------



## payper

I am having some issues with my X-Star DP2710LED- I am seeing an all gray screen when it's plugged in. I had been using the monitor for 3 months issues-free, then just a few days ago I was playing Civilization V, and in the middle of the game the monitor just flickered and turned into this gray screen. The computer was still working, but the screen was unresponsive. I have tried a new DVI-D cable and uninstalled/reinstalled the video card drivers to no avail. I have attached 2 photos- one with the monitor unplugged (red light), and one with the monitor plugged in (blue light). I have my old monitor next to it and plugged in, so you can see the computer works. The picture with the monitor plugged in, notice the screen is completely gray- I have the monitor brightness setting turned up to maximum to show this.

Anyone else experience this? How can I go about fixing it? I have notified the eBay seller Dream Seller and he said I can use the warranty process, but I have to pay both ways to send it and get it back, and I have a feeling that is expensive!

Thanks in advance.


----------



## steven88

Wow, Dream Seller said you have to pay for shipping both ways? That's pretty much buying a new monitor from them.

I hear its about $150 one way to ship to Korea from USA.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w35t*
> 
> I'll be overclocking mine today! Kind of wish it was glossy though, =/


Did you get matte or Tempered glass over matte?


----------



## itgprk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w35t*
> 
> I'll be overclocking mine today! Kind of wish it was glossy though, =/


i have the matt, i like matt ..


----------



## itgprk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *payper*
> 
> I am having some issues with my X-Star DP2710LED- I am seeing an all gray screen when it's plugged in. I had been using the monitor for 3 months issues-free, then just a few days ago I was playing Civilization V, and in the middle of the game the monitor just flickered and turned into this gray screen. The computer was still working, but the screen was unresponsive. I have tried a new DVI-D cable and uninstalled/reinstalled the video card drivers to no avail. I have attached 2 photos- one with the monitor unplugged (red light), and one with the monitor plugged in (blue light). I have my old monitor next to it and plugged in, so you can see the computer works. The picture with the monitor plugged in, notice the screen is completely gray- I have the monitor brightness setting turned up to maximum to show this.
> 
> Anyone else experience this? How can I go about fixing it? I have notified the eBay seller Dream Seller and he said I can use the warranty process, but I have to pay both ways to send it and get it back, and I have a feeling that is expensive!
> 
> Thanks in advance.


this is scary ..

you of course tested the gpu on the other monitor ??

if the gpu is fine, then the problem is about the monitor ..

if you oc the monitor, then how could you reset it in this status ? as if it is an oc issue


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *payper*
> 
> I am having some issues with my X-Star DP2710LED- I am seeing an all gray screen when it's plugged in. I had been using the monitor for 3 months issues-free, then just a few days ago I was playing Civilization V, and in the middle of the game the monitor just flickered and turned into this gray screen. The computer was still working, but the screen was unresponsive. I have tried a new DVI-D cable and uninstalled/reinstalled the video card drivers to no avail. I have attached 2 photos- one with the monitor unplugged (red light), and one with the monitor plugged in (blue light). I have my old monitor next to it and plugged in, so you can see the computer works. The picture with the monitor plugged in, notice the screen is completely gray- I have the monitor brightness setting turned up to maximum to show this.
> 
> Anyone else experience this? How can I go about fixing it? I have notified the eBay seller Dream Seller and he said I can use the warranty process, but I have to pay both ways to send it and get it back, and I have a feeling that is expensive!
> 
> Thanks in advance.


i think one of your PCBs has fried or gone bad. if you contact him to trouble shoot the issue. it's way cheaper he send you a replacement for the dead part. ... i think he can do this. i believe one of the reviews said they sent the buyer a new part. he plugged it in and the monitor worked well after that !


----------



## lightsout

Whats up guys been away from the thread but have a question.

I have crossfire r9 270's. I can OC to 120hz, everyhting is great in game and on the desktop. But if I try to watch a video on youtube or with MPC-HC I just get a black screen.

Assumimg it is an HDCP issue. I am using the modded driver. Is there any way to avoid this so I can watch movies with the screen at 120hz?


----------



## dpl2007

Crossfire...I just got a r9 290 tri x oc and I'm probably going to two in crossfire but then I just noticed this: "If using a crossfire (multi AMD GPU) setup, than multiple crossfire bridges must be used. For example, if crossfiring two GPUs than two crossfire bridges must be used."
On page one of this thread. I assume I don't need to worry about it as there is no bridges for my set up yes? Or have I missed something? Thanks


----------



## payper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itgprk*
> 
> this is scary ..
> 
> you of course tested the gpu on the other monitor ??
> 
> if the gpu is fine, then the problem is about the monitor ..
> 
> if you oc the monitor, then how could you reset it in this status ? as if it is an oc issue


The GPU is fine, the other monitor is hooked up to it, and when I plug in the 1440p, it acts like it would normally, except the monitor won't display. This monitor was never OCed- so the issue is unrelated to that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i think one of your PCBs has fried or gone bad. if you contact him to trouble shoot the issue. it's way cheaper he send you a replacement for the dead part. ... i think he can do this. i believe one of the reviews said they sent the buyer a new part. he plugged it in and the monitor worked well after that !


I think you may be on to something... Although, it makes me pretty sad. I plugged in both monitors and checked the display resolutions, to see if I could tweak the monitor at all, and I see the 1440p monitor is only being recognized as a DUAL-DVI device (picture below). Makes me think that maybe the PCB is fried b/c I think it recognized the model number before- *would someone confirm the model number should appear here?* So, if it doesn't recognize the model number anymore, probably an interfact problem with the 1440p monitor which means broken PCB, right??

Thanks for the help so far. I've opened the monitor up again and am looking for any evidence of a broken PCB- The pic below shows what I found, it looks like the _only_ PCB is that big one in the back. Is that correct?- if I request a part I want to make sure I am getting the right one, how sure are we that this is the one? You've been a big help so far, may I impose on you one more time for any more info you guys may have?

Thanks again.


----------



## Ronalddus

Finally tested my new monitor. Installed all needed progs and stuff and it all worked immediately. A mirracle








120Hz is unfortunately not doable for my monitor. Now running at 110Hz with Lawson's tight timings and tested a few color presets.
Colors are amazing, no dead pixels and very little BLB.

I'm happy!


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *payper*
> 
> The GPU is fine, the other monitor is hooked up to it, and when I plug in the 1440p, it acts like it would normally, except the monitor won't display. This monitor was never OCed- so the issue is unrelated to that.
> I think you may be on to something... Although, it makes me pretty sad. I plugged in both monitors and checked the display resolutions, to see if I could tweak the monitor at all, and I see the 1440p monitor is only being recognized as a DUAL-DVI device (picture below). Makes me think that maybe the PCB is fried b/c I think it recognized the model number before- *would someone confirm the model number should appear here?* So, if it doesn't recognize the model number anymore, probably an interfact problem with the 1440p monitor which means broken PCB, right??
> 
> Thanks for the help so far. I've opened the monitor up again and am looking for any evidence of a broken PCB- I'll post a pic of the inside- if I request a part I want to make sure I am getting the right one. You've been a big help, may I impose on you one more time for any more info you guys may have?
> 
> Thanks again.


Mine also says the same for the monitor though I have installed the oc ing stuff can't remember if it said something different at the beginning anyway mines fully working and says that.


----------



## payper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i think one of your PCBs has fried or gone bad. if you contact him to trouble shoot the issue. it's way cheaper he send you a replacement for the dead part. ... i think he can do this. i believe one of the reviews said they sent the buyer a new part. he plugged it in and the monitor worked well after that !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Mine also says the same for the monitor though I have installed the oc ing stuff can't remember if it said something different at the beginning anyway mines fully working and says that.


Thanks for checking. But now I'm even less confident about what's wrong... Though, I still like the PCB answer...









I just don't think sending back for warranty is worth it, given the price of shipping each way. How do those eBay sellers make money shipping these monitors?? What's the secret?


----------



## LJOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Crossfire...I just got a r9 290 tri x oc and I'm probably going to two in crossfire but then I just noticed this: "If using a crossfire (multi AMD GPU) setup, than multiple crossfire bridges must be used. For example, if crossfiring two GPUs than two crossfire bridges must be used."
> On page one of this thread. I assume I don't need to worry about it as there is no bridges for my set up yes? Or have I missed something? Thanks


I don't have a crossfire setup on my pc so I'm not 100% sure but I believe it does not pertain to our gpu's.

Off topic but have you tried to OC your gpu as well as your monitor? I'm asking because if I overclock my 290x core and run my xstar @110hz I lose signal to the monitor during a gaming session,it works fine on the desktop though. Overclocking the memory on the gpu does not cause the signal loss, only the core clock. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LJOE*
> 
> I don't have a crossfire setup on my pc so I'm not 100% sure but I believe it does not pertain to our gpu's.
> 
> Off topic but have you tried to OC your gpu as well as your monitor? I'm asking because if I overclock my 290x core and run my xstar @110hz I lose signal to the monitor during a gaming session,it works fine on the desktop though. Overclocking the memory on the gpu does not cause the signal loss, only the core clock. Any help will be greatly appreciated.


thanks yes thought so...sorry not oc gpu not sure if I will bother unless I really need it...


----------



## w35t

Well I finally got to play around with my monitor yesterday and I must say, I'm very impressed with 120hz! The difference is noticed immediately and it's very apparent. Everything is just so much smoother, even dragging the mouse around is waaaay better. I played some CS:Go and wow, what an improvement, I was instantly better! I played some Skyrim too and that was also very pleasant at 120fps, though I got occasional dips so I'll probably drop it to 90fps. Also once overclocked, the picture changed dramatically, became much darker, but I've been playing with some calibration profiles and have it pretty close to where I want it.

Noticed something very odd yesterday though, I watched a movie and immediately noticed, well, what looked like a burned in image of a web browser or window open in the movie, like the movie was transparent and you could see through it (I then minimized it to see if anything was behind it, there wasn't). It eventually went away and I haven't seen anything like that since but it was so weird. During the movie I also noticed a rare but occasional.. artifacting I guess, maybe just a line shoot across the screen, at one point a really bright white dot about the size of a pea.

This question has probably been beaten to death but, is there any danger to overclocking a monitor? I've read that a monitor can either support it or it can't, if it can you're fine, if it can't back it off until it's stable. I tested mine at 120hz, haven't gone any higher, and it's fine, even took a picture of that frame skipping thing and verified it's working. I'm also using that thick monoprice dual DVI cable that could probably also be used as a welding cable.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w35t*
> 
> Well I finally got to play around with my monitor yesterday and I must say, I'm very impressed with 120hz! The difference is noticed immediately and it's very apparent. Everything is just so much smoother, even dragging the mouse around is waaaay better. I played some CS:Go and wow, what an improvement, I was instantly better! I played some Skyrim too and that was also very pleasant at 120fps, though I got occasional dips so I'll probably drop it to 90fps. Also once overclocked, the picture changed dramatically, became much darker, but I've been playing with some calibration profiles and have it pretty close to where I want it.
> 
> Noticed something very odd yesterday though, I watched a movie and immediately noticed, well, what looked like a burned in image of a web browser or window open in the movie, like the movie was transparent and you could see through it (I then minimized it to see if anything was behind it, there wasn't). It eventually went away and I haven't seen anything like that since but it was so weird. During the movie I also noticed a rare but occasional.. artifacting I guess, maybe just a line shoot across the screen, at one point a really bright white dot about the size of a pea.
> 
> This question has probably been beaten to death but, is there any danger to overclocking a monitor? I've read that a monitor can either support it or it can't, if it can you're fine, if it can't back it off until it's stable. I tested mine at 120hz, haven't gone any higher, and it's fine, even took a picture of that frame skipping thing and verified it's working. I'm also using that thick monoprice dual DVI cable that could probably also be used as a welding cable.


Yes I have been seeing quiet a few people with problems not sure how many keep 120Hz most seem play safe and go 110Hz and lower. I've not got stable 120 and I'm thinking you have to be very careful at that setting...that ghosting type stuff had been reported by a few. I'm personally going to aim for 110 and switch it on only for games for a while till I got monies worth then I might leave it up on high settings...anyone got 120hz 24 7 for a long period?


----------



## w35t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Yes I have been seeing quiet a few people with problems not sure how many keep 120Hz most seem play safe and go 110Hz and lower. I've not got stable 120 and I'm thinking you have to be very careful at that setting...that ghosting type stuff had been reported by a few. I'm personally going to aim for 110 and switch it on only for games for a while till I got monies worth then I might leave it up on high settings...anyone got 120hz 24 7 for a long period?


Thanks for the reply, I've considered lowering the refresh rate for daily use and movies, then raising it for games. I really only care to have the full 120hz on CS. I seriously love the feel the computer has just on the desktop at 120hz though. But I doubt I could really notice a notice a difference between 120hz and say 110hz.


----------



## seanp2501

To be honest based on the ghosting I would downclock to 110. In terms of gaming I doubt you could tell a difference but I hear you counterstike people are sensitive.

To my knowledge the monitors without driver installed will appear as a generic pnp monitor in device manager. For the fellow who has only a dvi device listed I would try installing the actual driver. May have to disable the device driver signature enforcement.

Now the dilema comes. Do I even bother buying the Rog Swift. Man I like my Qnix so much it seems like an utter waste but I would love to see what Gsync is all about. Oh the irony. I really wish the companies would make their prices more agreeable here in the states. I see people gaming on smaller crappier screens and really just chuckle. Best tech investment I ever made for the price. Close second was a used wii I modded the heck out of. Just played through metro last light on this thing and it was just eye candy...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> go to 96hz, for optimal video playback


Not true in most cases, key word being "optimal", as a generic compromise setting for those who can't achieve higher clocks 110/120Hz it's OK. But if your running at 110/120Hz and are having problems with video then I'd reduce it down to appx 72Hz ...I'll let Yasamoka explain it *HERE* and *HERE*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *payper*
> 
> I am having some issues with my X-Star DP2710LED- I am seeing an all gray screen when it's plugged in. I had been using the monitor for 3 months issues-free, then just a few days ago I was playing Civilization V, and in the middle of the game the monitor just flickered and turned into this gray screen. The computer was still working, but the screen was unresponsive. I have tried a new DVI-D cable and uninstalled/reinstalled the video card drivers to no avail. I have attached 2 photos- one with the monitor unplugged (red light), and one with the monitor plugged in (blue light). I have my old monitor next to it and plugged in, so you can see the computer works. The picture with the monitor plugged in, notice the screen is completely gray- I have the monitor brightness setting turned up to maximum to show this.
> 
> Anyone else experience this? How can I go about fixing it? I have notified the eBay seller Dream Seller and he said I can use the warranty process, but I have to pay both ways to send it and get it back, and I have a feeling that is expensive!
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *payper*
> 
> The GPU is fine, the other monitor is hooked up to it, and when I plug in the 1440p, it acts like it would normally, except the monitor won't display. This monitor was never OCed- so the issue is unrelated to that.
> I think you may be on to something... Although, it makes me pretty sad. I plugged in both monitors and checked the display resolutions, to see if I could tweak the monitor at all, and I see the 1440p monitor is only being recognized as a DUAL-DVI device (picture below). Makes me think that maybe the PCB is fried b/c I think it recognized the model number before- *would someone confirm the model number should appear here?* So, if it doesn't recognize the model number anymore, probably an interfact problem with the 1440p monitor which means broken PCB, right??
> 
> Thanks for the help so far. I've opened the monitor up again and am looking for any evidence of a broken PCB- The pic below shows what I found, it looks like the _only_ PCB is that big one in the back. Is that correct?- if I request a part I want to make sure I am getting the right one, how sure are we that this is the one? You've been a big help so far, may I impose on you one more time for any more info you guys may have?
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I also believe you may have a bad PCB , hopefully Dream-Seller will be as accommodating as storewithstory was with a PCB replacement totally free of charge (shipped) you do the labor! What have you got to lose









Read about TamaDrumz experience *HERE* / *HERE* / *HERE*









Also Widows Display has never shown a QNIX model # with or without the QNIX drivers ... only DUAL-DVI, like in your screenie, even in the drop down. With the QNIX driver Windows will read QX2710 in Advanced Settings & Device Manager instead of the generic pnp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w35t*
> 
> Well I finally got to play around with my monitor yesterday and I must say, I'm very impressed with 120hz! The difference is noticed immediately and it's very apparent. Everything is just so much smoother, even dragging the mouse around is waaaay better. I played some CS:Go and wow, what an improvement, I was instantly better! I played some Skyrim too and that was also very pleasant at 120fps, though I got occasional dips so I'll probably drop it to 90fps. Also once overclocked, the picture changed dramatically, became much darker, but I've been playing with some calibration profiles and have it pretty close to where I want it.
> 
> Noticed something very odd yesterday though, I watched a movie and immediately noticed, well, what looked like a burned in image of a web browser or window open in the movie, like the movie was transparent and you could see through it (I then minimized it to see if anything was behind it, there wasn't). It eventually went away and I haven't seen anything like that since but it was so weird. During the movie I also noticed a rare but occasional.. artifacting I guess, maybe just a line shoot across the screen, at one point a really bright white dot about the size of a pea.
> 
> This question has probably been beaten to death but, is there any danger to overclocking a monitor? I've read that a monitor can either support it or it can't, if it can you're fine, if it can't back it off until it's stable. I tested mine at 120hz, haven't gone any higher, and it's fine, even took a picture of that frame skipping thing and verified it's working. I'm also using that thick monoprice dual DVI cable that could probably also be used as a welding cable.


I'll confirm dpl2007's comments (ghosting), although I've never experienced it, it gets brought up quite often.
Also many of us, myself, Lawson, and others that have a stable 120Hz clock are running 110Hz 24/7 because we don't want to exceed the 450Hz pixel clock unnecessarily 24/7 ... some guys have been running for over a year @120Hz and I have found no concrete evidence that this is a bad thing, I and others just play it safer with 110Hz 24/7, BUT when a game (BF3/BF4/MOH) allows you to set 120Hz in it's Display settings I always do so with my 120Hz profile. It also eliminates the problems with your ram downclocking in some cases.









Read more HERE / HERE or I think Lawson talks about it over in his thread HERE

@dpl2007 you may also find Lawson a great resource when you XFire the 290 as he has the same setup ... see link above


----------



## w35t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanp2501*
> 
> To be honest based on the ghosting I would downclock to 110. In terms of gaming I doubt you could tell a difference but I hear you counterstike people are sensitive.


Doubt you could tell a difference in gaming? Are you serious? It's extremely apparent even in non FPS games, though most useful in them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I'll confirm dpl2007's comments (ghosting), although I've never experienced it, it gets brought up quite often.
> Also many of us, myself, Lawson, and others that have a stable 120Hz clock are running 110Hz 24/7 because we don't want to exceed the 450Hz pixel clock unnecessarily 24/7 ... some guys have been running for over a year @120Hz and I have found no concrete evidence that this is a bad thing, I and others just play it safer with 110Hz 24/7, BUT when a game (BF3/BF4/MOH) allows you to set 120Hz in it's Display settings I always do so with my 120Hz profile. It also eliminates the problems with your ram downclocking in some cases.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read more HERE / HERE or I think Lawson talks about it over in his thread HERE


Thanks for the info. I actually feel pretty silly, I've heard the term ghosting being tossed around but I just thought it was blur or tracers or something. I'll knock it down to 110 and see what happens.


----------



## seanp2501

Well lol if you can tell the difference between 10hz...lol your eyes are pretty sensitive. From 60 to 120 yes. Though for me not from 120 to 110. I would uh notice the ghosting more mate..

those Yasamoka posts are interesting and make sense. I am big into blueray mkv rips and I guess those are still just 24-30fps right? I can't really see a difference at 60 or 110...


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *payper*
> 
> Thanks for checking. But now I'm even less confident about what's wrong... Though, I still like the PCB answer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't think sending back for warranty is worth it, given the price of shipping each way. How do those eBay sellers make money shipping these monitors?? What's the secret?


take your time. there is a detailed video on the first page on the original post of a guy taking the monitor down to each bone of it. there are more small pcbs. i dont remember which one controls the panel. but i remember there is a couple of pcbs. i'd check the video and diagnose the problem. there might be a lose solder joint or something due to bad manufacturing. this will cut your funds to like 30$ shipping for the new pcb.


----------



## w35t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanp2501*
> 
> Well lol if you can tell the difference between 10hz...lol your eyes are pretty sensitive. From 60 to 120 yes. Though for me not from 120 to 110. I would uh notice the ghosting more mate..
> 
> those Yasamoka posts are interesting and make sense. I am big into blueray mkv rips and I guess those are still just 24-30fps right? I can't really see a difference at 60 or 110...


Sorry, I thought you meant between 60 and 120. I highly doubt I would be able to tell a difference between 110 and 120.


----------



## w35t

Also, I can't get some of the color profiles to work. Some of them turn red when I click "Associate Profile", do any of you know the cause of that? I'm currently using 120hz profiles at 110hz.


----------



## Satchmo0016

So was there ever a definitive result on the input lag difference with the multi input version? I want to get two more and play with eyefinity but my 295x2 only has 1 dvi and the rest are mini DP.

The only other option is to hook them up to my r9 290 (since it has two more dvi outputs) and run "tri-fire". Think that would work?


----------



## TGTBATQ

i currently have an msi 7970: http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=67605

using one qnix 1440, i decided to purchase another so could just have two 1440p monitors since i loved my first so much
the graphics card in question only has one dvi out, so i'll be needing a mini dp to dual-link dvi active adapter (i believe this is correct)
however i'm unable to find any product recommendations from anyone here on the site.. there is also a lot of adapters that say they support exactly what i need, but reviews say otherwise

tl;dr
can anyone recommend a mini-display to dual-link dvi active adapter that supports 1440p?
all the adapters i have found are either $100+, or reviews say they are absolutely garbage adapters.

thanks for all help anyone can provide.


----------



## Satchmo0016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGTBATQ*
> 
> i currently have an msi 7970: http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=67605
> 
> using one qnix 1440, i decided to purchase another so could just have two 1440p monitors since i loved my first so much
> the graphics card in question only has one dvi out, so i'll be needing a mini dp to dual-link dvi active adapter (i believe this is correct)
> however i'm unable to find any product recommendations from anyone here on the site.. there is also a lot of adapters that say they support exactly what i need, but reviews say otherwise
> 
> tl;dr
> can anyone recommend a mini-display to dual-link dvi active adapter that supports 1440p?
> all the adapters i have found are either $100+, or reviews say they are absolutely garbage adapters.
> 
> thanks for all help anyone can provide.


if you see my post I have a similar issue.. thinking about simply using another card to get more dvi slots


----------



## TGTBATQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Satchmo0016*
> 
> if you see my post I have a similar issue.. thinking about simply using another card to get more dvi slots


That's the last thing I want to do


----------



## Satchmo0016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGTBATQ*
> 
> That's the last thing I want to do


I don't have a good feeling about most of those converters if you care much for quality, stability, or overclocking. At least if you ever wanted cross fire you could get a 280x to match that 7970.


----------



## TGTBATQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Satchmo0016*
> 
> I don't have a good feeling about most of those converters if you care much for quality, stability, or overclocking. At least if you ever wanted cross fire you could get a 280x to match that 7970.


the only thing is my build is watercooled, so adding another card means adding another block, another rad, more fittings and such, all for a monitor


----------



## Satchmo0016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGTBATQ*
> 
> the only thing is my build is watercooled, so adding another card means adding another block, another rad, more fittings and such, all for a monitor


hm, well if you have space you could try to find a cheap 5750 or something that will still work with eyefinity and just leave it out of the loop?


----------



## passinos

I had same issue.

1) buy the 100+ adapter
2) get a 2nd 7970 that allows to use both card outputs or a 7970 that has 2 DVI-DL and make it the primary
3) get a r9 290 and sell 7970

I did #3.


----------



## w35t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TGTBATQ*
> 
> i currently have an msi 7970: http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=67605
> 
> using one qnix 1440, i decided to purchase another so could just have two 1440p monitors since i loved my first so much
> the graphics card in question only has one dvi out, so i'll be needing a mini dp to dual-link dvi active adapter (i believe this is correct)
> however i'm unable to find any product recommendations from anyone here on the site.. there is also a lot of adapters that say they support exactly what i need, but reviews say otherwise
> 
> tl;dr
> can anyone recommend a mini-display to dual-link dvi active adapter that supports 1440p?
> all the adapters i have found are either $100+, or reviews say they are absolutely garbage adapters.
> 
> thanks for all help anyone can provide.


You'll need the $100+ adapter. I used the apple one when I had a 7970 lightning which DID NOT SUPPORT DUAL LINK DVI! Just find one used, I think I sold mine for like $50.

BUT, it behaved strangely, it would flicker or go blank sometimes. I ditched that lightning quickly.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Can I use 3 monitors with a 290 CF array? Will I need any adapters?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Can I use 3 monitors with a 290 CF array? Will I need any adapters?


You can run up to 4 dual-link DVI monitors across the two cards without any additional adapters. However, you cannot set up three in an Eyefinity setup since AMD does not (yet) support spreading monitors across several cards like Nvidia does with Surround. Adapters mean that you will be hitting pixel clock limits. ToastyX mentions an adapter that goes up to 400MHz pixel clock so check that out.

As it stands, triple 1440p 120Hz are easier to set up (or simply possible?) on Nvidia multi-GPU setups with 3 or more DL-DVI connectors in total.


----------



## Satchmo0016

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> You can run up to 4 dual-link DVI monitors across the two cards without any additional adapters. However, you cannot set up three in an Eyefinity*setup since AMD does not (yet) support spreading monitors across several cards* like Nvidia does with Surround. Adapters mean that you will be hitting pixel clock limits. ToastyX mentions an adapter that goes up to 400MHz pixel clock so check that out.
> 
> As it stands, triple 1440p 120Hz are easier to set up (or simply possible?) on Nvidia multi-GPU setups with 3 or more DL-DVI connectors in total.


has there ever been any explanation as to why drivers never implemented this? or when the capability will come to AMD? Its pretty dumb that they do this, and then make cards with only one dvi and 4 mini do ports. it feeels like amd is in bed with monoprice or whoever makes those stupidly overpriced adapters


----------



## Asking007

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Qnix-QX2710-27-Slim-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-2560x1440-Matt-/281313095029?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item417f912d75#shpCntId

whats about that seller, anyone got positive feedback?

is that monitor with low inputlag and overclockable, 120hz?

thx alot guys


----------



## payper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I also believe you may have a bad PCB , hopefully Dream-Seller will be as accommodating as storewithstory was with a PCB replacement totally free of charge (shipped) you do the labor! What have you got to lose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read about TamaDrumz experience *HERE* / *HERE* / *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also Widows Display has never shown a QNIX model # with or without the QNIX drivers ... only DUAL-DVI, like in your screenie, even in the drop down. With the QNIX driver Windows will read QX2710 in Advanced Settings & Device Manager instead of the generic pnp.


Interesting reading! Thanks for those links. Sounds like a similar situation.
Wanted to provide maybe a buyer beware- Dream-seller is NOT sending me a PCB for free; he's going to charge me $65. So, when you buy one of these S.Korean monitors, the warranty is useless b/c shipping costs are greater than buying a new one. Dream-seller is pleasant to talk to, but he won't go the extra mile for you. Maybe consider someone else (storewithstory, I've heard in these posts will do more for ya).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> take your time. there is a detailed video on the first page on the original post of a guy taking the monitor down to each bone of it. there are more small pcbs. i dont remember which one controls the panel. but i remember there is a couple of pcbs. i'd check the video and diagnose the problem. there might be a lose solder joint or something due to bad manufacturing. this will cut your funds to like 30$ shipping for the new pcb.


Thanks for the tip. I'm comfortable taking it apart, though I don't know how much I am going to be able to do... I'll see what I can find!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Whats up guys been away from the thread but have a question.
> 
> I have crossfire r9 270's. I can OC to 120hz, everyhting is great in game and on the desktop. But if I try to watch a video on youtube or with MPC-HC I just get a black screen.
> 
> Assumimg it is an HDCP issue. I am using the modded driver. Is there any way to avoid this so I can watch movies with the screen at 120hz?


Anyone able to watch videos while their monitor is OC'd on an AMD gpu? I keep getting black screen.


----------



## blitzed604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone able to watch videos while their monitor is OC'd on an AMD gpu? I keep getting black screen.


Yes I watch movies in mpc using a r9 290x without any issues


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blitzed604*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone able to watch videos while their monitor is OC'd on an AMD gpu? I keep getting black screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I watch movies in mpc using a r9 290x without any issues
Click to expand...

Is that with a patched driver? If so can you tell me the exact patch and driver your using?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone able to watch videos while their monitor is OC'd on an AMD gpu? I keep getting black screen.


You may need to turn off hardware acceleration, as it can cause problems for some people.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone able to watch videos while their monitor is OC'd on an AMD gpu? I keep getting black screen.
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to turn off hardware acceleration, as it can cause problems for some people.
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll give it a try.


----------



## timaishu

I'll do some searching, but do any of you guys have problems with dark screens where the screen seems to have a grey haze to it making it hard to see things?

This is most noticeable for me when playing skyrim. I had mine modded for super dark nights and the details seems almost washed out due to the grey. Im sure the backlight bleed is a factor, but even the middle of the screen has this greyness to it.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Anyone able to watch videos while their monitor is OC'd on an AMD gpu? I keep getting black screen.
> 
> 
> 
> You may need to turn off hardware acceleration, as it can cause problems for some people.
Click to expand...

That worked!! +rep


----------



## timaishu

Decided to open up my monitor to fix the blb and had mixed success. I decided to do the tape mod and bend the frame. I minimized the blb on the left side, but on the right side its unchanged, if not a little worse. Its in the top right and bottom right corner where its radiating from the most. Also it seems like the bezel isn't sitting flush anymore. I have a large gap in the center bottom where it says QNIX.

I will open it up again tomorrow or sunday and see if there is anything else I can do.


----------



## lawson67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Decided to open up my monitor to fix the blb and had mixed success. I decided to do the tape mod and bend the frame. I minimized the blb on the left side, but on the right side its unchanged, if not a little worse. Its in the top right and bottom right corner where its radiating from the most. Also it seems like the bezel isn't sitting flush anymore. I have a large gap in the center bottom where it says QNIX.
> 
> I will open it up again tomorrow or sunday and see if there is anything else I can do.


Dont use tape it can put more pressure on the panel creating BLB


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Has anyone ran into an issue like this before? When I play AC3 & sniper elite 3. I get that. But when I play Nether. It's fine. I play on 2560 x 1440p @ 96 Refreash. I own 2 670's. I don't get this when I'm watching Youtube its fine. I deleted all my Nvidia drivers & Re installed them. The night before it was fine. But I did noticed an update from Uplay. then this issuse happened. But would it go to steam games as well? Need help guys.


----------



## timaishu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Dont use tape it can put more pressure on the panel creating BLB


Really? Hmmm. Maybe I will just remove it on the right side then as that's where the problem now is. Whatever I did worked on the left hand side.


----------



## aufkrawall

My GTX 780 Ti doesn't clock down to idle state when display is OCed with custom timings. Instead it always runs with 810mhz.
Thus energy consumption is 30% of TDP all the time instead of 5%. Any way to improve this?
When I force P8 state via Nvidia Inspector MDPS, I'm just getting corruption/losing signal.


----------



## itgprk

alright .. i want to understand a specific issue with my qnix evo ii

i Ran this monitor at 75hz, and then that was my last setting, does this mean the monitor actually ave this setting ?

Because, i lost my gpu and when i want to run it with dvi adapter or with my laptop, it goes to color mode. does this mean i have to run it with a gpu and the laptop does not supply the right hz which the monitor is adjusted with ?


----------



## giltyler

Most if not all sellers say the Monitor will not work with laptops and that straight dual link DVI must be used.


----------



## itgprk

even with dvi to hdmi adapter did not work

so you mean it needs a gpu, not the igpu


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aufkrawall*
> 
> My GTX 780 Ti doesn't clock down to idle state when display is OCed with custom timings. Instead it always runs with 810mhz.
> Thus energy consumption is 30% of TDP all the time instead of 5%. Any way to improve this?
> When I force P8 state via Nvidia Inspector MDPS, I'm just getting corruption/losing signal.


Custom Timings for what clock? ... What are your custom timing settings?
120Hz? probably won't happen
110Hz? possibly ... but have you tried the standard timings 1st?

Many of use 110Hz for our 24/7 clocks and consistent ram downclocking is one of the reason's why ... see more discussion/links HERE and HERE









For more info and help on custom timings check out Lawson's thread HERE








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timaishu*
> 
> Really? Hmmm. Maybe I will just remove it on the right side then as that's where the problem now is. Whatever I did worked on the left hand side.


Trust us, Lawson is right ... remove all your tape ... BLB is all about Straightening your frame


----------



## Sempre

Something strange.....
I opened this picture: http://www.sinhardware.com/images/vrmlist.png
Then when i click the left mouse button to zoom the picture to it's original size, I hear a high pitched "bzzzzz" coming from the back of the monitor, obviously from the PCB.

When i un-zoom it, the sound goes away. This is the first time it happened.


----------



## mspamed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Something strange.....
> I opened this picture: http://www.sinhardware.com/images/vrmlist.png
> Then when i click the left mouse button to zoom the picture to it's original size, I hear a high pitched "bzzzzz" coming from the back of the monitor, obviously from the PCB.
> 
> When i un-zoom it, the sound goes away. This is the first time it happened.


It might be a bad capacitor. My previous Asus monitor would do the same and then the capacitor popped, I had to replace it.


----------



## aufkrawall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Custom Timings for what clock? ... What are your custom timing settings?
> 120Hz? probably won't happen
> 110Hz? possibly ... but have you tried the standard timings 1st?
> 
> Many of use 110Hz for our 24/7 clocks and consistent ram downclocking is one of the reason's why ... see more discussion/links HERE and HERE


Thanks, helpful information over there.


----------



## aaaflyer

cannot overclock! help!

brand new rig. install 14.4 amd driver. install patcher. install cru, set 96hz, move it to top. restart comp. still 60hz! use the restart.exe also cannot work. where did i miss out?


----------



## aaaflyer

weird. when using restart64, my screen blank for a while then i can see desktop again for around 2 sec. during this 2 sec i can see my mouse movement is more smooth. but immediately blank screen and desktop reappears become 60 again...


----------



## aaaflyer

it works.... i have to change the frequency in the ccc control center! why isnt this in the guide....


----------



## Hl86

I tried downsampling with CRU, it Works but its way too much zoomed in.
Is there a solution to that?
I have toggled Gpu scaling in catalyst.

Amd 290
Qnix 1440p
13.12 Driver.


----------



## doco

it looks like x-star has a new monitor model out? the X-STAR DP2710LED MULTI. 1440p AH-VA with HDMI and dual-link dvi (it looks like it has a scaler? i don't read korean but it mentions 4:3 and 16:9).

did this model come out recently?


----------



## serge2k

Just how bad for gaming are the TRUE10 models with DisplayPort?

I'm thinking about grabbing 3 of these for my desktop. I'd be using those over DVI but I'd like the option to use them with my macbook for work, and that has only DP and HDMI outputs.

From the faq it says the multi-input versions are lousy for gaming, but how bad are they actually?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> it works.... i have to change the frequency in the ccc control center! why isnt this in the guide....


Please clarify for me so i can make any necessary changes


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serge2k*
> 
> Just how bad for gaming are the TRUE10 models with DisplayPort?
> 
> I'm thinking about grabbing 3 of these for my desktop. I'd be using those over DVI but I'd like the option to use them with my macbook for work, and that has only DP and HDMI outputs.
> 
> From the faq it says the multi-input versions are lousy for gaming, but how bad are they actually?


VERY bad. Lots of ghosting with motion. Those monitors are for graphic design, hence the 10-bit display.

I would say that the standard single-input model is already borderline acceptable/bad compared to a 2ms monitor.


----------



## DiceAir

Ok so I'm just going to tsay it here.

Looks like you can get a faulty DVI cable with this monitor. I couldn't understand why on 60hz my old 1080p looks way smoother than this monitor. It felt like it wasn't mving 60hz smoothly. I tested with all test to check if i can get 60hz/60fps and all was fine but when playing games it wasn't as smooth as it could be even the framtime was nothing wrong with.

Luckily i had another Dual link DVI cable lying around so I tried with that cable and now it's smoother than before. I'm to scared to go higher on the refresh rate now so i think i will be happy with 60hz now.


----------



## the9quad

I _personally_ don't think ghosting is that bad at all on these. To each their own though.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I _personally_ don't think ghosting is that bad at all on these. To each their own though.


They were talking about the True10, not the regular QX2710 Evo II PLS.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> They were talking about the True10, not the regular QX2710 Evo II PLS.


The guy two posts above me stated he thought the single input model was borderline acceptable/bad for ghosting. I said for me it is fine.


----------



## SQLServerSteve

I was wondering if anyone here might have an inkling how to fix this problem I just developed with my brand new QNIX 2170 Evolution II. I got it late last week and as soon as I plugged it in, I instantly got 2560 x 1440 resolution, which is everything it's cracked up to be. Before buying the monitor, I verified the specs on my Gigabyte GV-R435OC-512I to make sure it could handle the resolution, and sure enough, it worked like a charm. Ever since I returned from my 4th of July holiday, however, I've been unable to get anything more than 1920 x 1200. The Windows 7 display control panel now says that 1900 x 1080 is the recommended resolution and no matter what I do, I cannot get 2560 x 1440 back on list of available resolutions. It's no longer shown in the List All Modes window either, even when unchecking the "Hide Modes that this monitor cannot display" checkbox. I've tried everything I can think of, from making sure my Dual DVI-I cable wasn't loose, to updating the display drivers, cutting the power before rebooting and even adding new entries to the registry under the DALNonStandardModeBCD1 key. The EDID is correctly reporting the preferred resolution as 2560 x 1440, according to the output of the Moninfo utility. I'm not concerned with overclocking it to reach gaming speeds or anything fancy, I just need the extra resolution for programming and video/photo editing (it immediately made me more productive at all these things). At this point I'm stumped and will appreciate any advice I can get. Thanks in advance...


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> They were talking about the True10, not the regular QX2710 Evo II PLS.
> 
> 
> 
> The guy two posts above me stated he thought the single input model was borderline acceptable/bad for ghosting. I said for me it is fine.
Click to expand...

I agree, but maybe I'm not that picky.

To the guy saying he needed to use CCC to change the frequency. I do it in with windows not CCC.


----------



## aaaflyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Please clarify for me so i can make any necessary changes


your guide is clear and I followed every steps til the end. However it was not successful. It kept @ 60hz.

the final step I did:



go into CCC, under desktop management, click on desktop properties. This is where I can change the refresh rate and it is now a success!

In CRU, I have 3 profiles, so in CCC I can choose 60hz, 96hz and 110hz. All successful without changing the timing. didnt bother 120hz.

And in some games I can choose the refresh rate I set in the CRU too, in my case, 60/96/110.

running sapphire tri x 290
AMD Catalyst Control Center Version 2014.0417.2226.38446
Catalyst Version 14.4


----------



## Marley217

Some comments about overclocking the refresh rate on the Qnix2710LED:

I've found that I only get image retention when clocked up until 96hz. For clarification: I've also tried 72hz and 84, all of them give image retention.
However, I once again clocked it at 120hz and there is no image retention at all. The right side of the screen is a bit darker, and I get occasional horizontal green stripes.
But no image retention at all. Very strange. Any ideas on tweaking the settings to remove the green stripes?

And wow, 120hz is really great, it's so responsive and lifelike. Making gaming just an amazing experience (coupled with the GTX 780).


----------



## PlanK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Any ideas on tweaking the settings to remove the green stripes?


Check out Lawson's overclocking thread. There you'll find some timings to try. Worked for me to get rid of the green lines.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/0_40


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PlanK*
> 
> Check out Lawson's overclocking thread. There you'll find some timings to try. Worked for me to get rid of the green lines.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/0_40


Thanks I will try that!


----------



## barabom

I just got my screen, it looks intact but when i plugged it in i get no image what so ever.. The power light on the screen shows up as blue for like 1-2 seconds and then blinking red with no image.
Does anyone know whats wrong or what to do?


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> I just got my screen, it looks intact but when i plugged it in i get no image what so ever.. The power light on the screen shows up as blue for like 1-2 seconds and then blinking red with no image.
> Does anyone know whats wrong or what to do?


Bad board maybe?


----------



## barabom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criminal*
> 
> Bad board maybe?


No idea, the screen lit up white when i turned it on the first time


----------



## barabom

Well, i've tried it with 2 diffrent graphic cards several times and nothing. Sometimes when you turn it on the screen goes white for ½ of a second but then it's just black, the powerlight on it turns blue for a second when you turn it on then it goes to blinking red and after a while blinking blue-red-blue-red and so on...
I guess i'll just contact the seller for a refund since the screen is obviously defect (100% testing my ass...). There were no signs of damage from the shipping, the box it was in was in perfect shape so thats not the problem


----------



## vodafone19

just got my xstar dp2710 before the 4th holiday. from dreamseller. and you guys are right about the fast shipping. received in 3-4 days. overclocked to 96hz. no bad pixel and paid for the standard one. I think it overclocked to 105hz fine but 110hz didnt work. but i didnt play with the timing. 96 is fine with me or ill try to squeeze out more later. the problem i have is slingbox playback. stutters alot. i turned off hardware acceleration for flash for youtube to work but slingbox has a webplayer i cant turn off. I did turn off hardware acceleration in firefox but that didnt work. is there something else i can try?


----------



## Midnite8

Since I have Xfire 7970s, should I get the Displayport version of the QNIX if I want to use the QNIX, a 1920x1080(DVI), and another DVI monitor with my card.


----------



## DiceAir

So can anyone tell me why on 60hz my old ASUS 1080p panel feels smoother than this panel on 60hz. I tried on another pc and same issue. It just doesn't feel smooth. Feels like I'm getting 40fps While running 60FPS. I also overclocked my panel I had my second club3d r9 280x sort of broke on me with this monitor overclocked and games would freeze on me









I've been having this issue for a long time now and no one has been able to help me figure out what is wrong. So just yesterday i was about to throw this monitor in the dustbin.


----------



## barabom

To update my issue with the screen, i contacted the seller (accessorieswhole) about the screen and that it's defect. They replied fast and told me to send them a video of it. So now i'll just have to see where it goes, hopefully i'll get a new screen shipped to me.
I'll link the video if anyones interested:


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> To update my issue with the screen, i contacted the seller (accessorieswhole) about the screen and that it's defect. They replied fast and told me to send them a video of it. So now i'll just have to see where it goes, hopefully i'll get a new screen shipped to me.
> I'll link the video if anyones interested:


correct me if im wrong but are you trying to plug it into a single dvi connection on that GPU the top one looks like a dual on the card?

EDIT: ah maybe not i guess its dvi d not dvi i


----------



## barabom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> correct me if im wrong but are you trying to plug it into a single dvi connection on that GPU the top one looks like a dual on the card?
> 
> EDIT: ah maybe not i guess its dvi d not dvi i


Well the first one to my old screen is DVI-I but the black one that i used for the QNIX screen is the DVI-D cable that i got with the screen


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> Well the first one to my old screen is DVI-I but the black one that i used for the QNIX screen is the DVI-D cable that i got with the screen


Yes sorry so dvi - d socket and cable should work...hmmm . Well the powers working thats good...maybe check desktop settings first HZ and pixel size and just make sure there not something strange. What GPU is it?

Whoa just unplugged my monitor while on to make sure I was dvi d and plugged it back in and got green lines on 60HZ settings - wont be doing that again! :O


----------



## bluedevil

Download Cru. Set the Hz to 60Hz and delete all other profiles. If that doesn't work, uninstall drivers. Try Qnix.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So can anyone tell me why on 60hz my old ASUS 1080p panel feels smoother than this panel on 60hz. I tried on another pc and same issue. It just doesn't feel smooth. Feels like I'm getting 40fps While running 60FPS. I also overclocked my panel I had my second club3d r9 280x sort of broke on me with this monitor overclocked and games would freeze on me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been having this issue for a long time now and no one has been able to help me figure out what is wrong. So just yesterday i was about to throw this monitor in the dustbin.


You tried the frame skipping tests? And don't forget to check what FPS your getting - you might have gone up a fair amount of resolution your GPU might be struggling...


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> You tried the frame skipping tests? And don't forget to check what FPS your getting - you might have gone up a fair amount of resolution your GPU might be struggling...


I already tested with http://www.testufo.com/#test=framerates and all seems fine with no frame drops etc etc. I noticed sometimes it will stutter but fps will stay 60 how is that possible. i removed the AMD drivers using DDU so everything should be left at default. Then I did the same test on the 1080p and it looks way smoother to me. I can't really understand why it would look smoother on the 1080p. I asked on another forum and the guy said the Qnix is actually smoother than the 1080p monitor. So the thing is unless I overclock my panel it doesn't feel smooth at all.

i tried some settings in the CCC like enable GPU up-scaling, Reduced DVI frequency for High-Resolution displays and Alternative DVI operational mode and still nothing is fixed. Could this be the panel that is broken or what? Maybe my Club3d r9 280x royalking is clocked to high and becomes a little bit unstable or so but i don't think so.

I hope i can get this fixed otherwise i'm going to call it a day and just use this for desktop use.


----------



## dpl2007

So is 1080p rez still not smooth on the qnix (not going to 1440p). Mine is smooth on the right settings for sure and you have checked FPS with fraps? http://www.fraps.com/


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> So is 1080p rez still not smooth on the qnix (not going to 1440p). Mine is smooth on the right settings for sure and you have checked FPS with fraps? http://www.fraps.com/


Can I try to use the Refresh Rate Multitoo or frame skip test http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping&horiz=15&vert=8

I will test later when I get home from work to see if the issue is there. I feel so bad for not checking this sooner. I was running 96Hz and it felt smooth so that's why I haven't checked it and now I think there is no warranty left. Dreamseller did add a piece of paper telling me they tested the monitor to be fine. As far as i can remember my GTX570 sli setup was just fine but that was about 8 months ago when i decided to upgrade to r9 280x crossfire. I'm not running crossfire now.


----------



## barabom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Yes sorry so dvi - d socket and cable should work...hmmm . Well the powers working thats good...maybe check desktop settings first HZ and pixel size and just make sure there not something strange. What GPU is it?
> 
> Whoa just unplugged my monitor while on to make sure I was dvi d and plugged it back in and got green lines on 60HZ settings - wont be doing that again! :O


I've tried with a DVI-I cable on the QNIX aswell. I've tested it with 2 diffrent cards, GTX 660 and GTX 560 Ti OC + another computer which im not sure what card it has. I guess i can check my settings on the computer but i've never changed them myself so they should be fine?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> I've tried with a DVI-I cable on the QNIX aswell. I've tested it with 2 diffrent cards, GTX 660 and GTX 560 Ti OC + another computer which im not sure what card it has. I guess i can check my settings on the computer but i've never changed them myself so they should be fine?


yer probably but worth checking 60hz and 1080 I am guessing it will be just as long as there's nothing unusual...you might want to set the ati/nvidia settings to default too...


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Can I try to use the Refresh Rate Multitoo or frame skip test http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping&horiz=15&vert=8
> 
> I will test later when I get home from work to see if the issue is there. I feel so bad for not checking this sooner. I was running 96Hz and it felt smooth so that's why I haven't checked it and now I think there is no warranty left. Dreamseller did add a piece of paper telling me they tested the monitor to be fine. As far as i can remember my GTX570 sli setup was just fine but that was about 8 months ago when i decided to upgrade to r9 280x crossfire. I'm not running crossfire now.


Yer do frame test like in post 1 in this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club under overclocking then also check FPS with fraps to see if the GPU is jumping at lower rez like 1080 then check 1440 resolution last I guess (on the qnix only).


----------



## dpl2007

Anyway I got a question I got my second 290 tri x OC in the post I was going to take out my current card and put the new one in for testing - there shouldn't be any problems should there? Ill go crossfire soon after I have made sure its a working card (ebay second hand)...just checking as I have read some strange stories here







!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Can I try to use the Refresh Rate Multitoo or frame skip test http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping&horiz=15&vert=8
> 
> I will test later when I get home from work to see if the issue is there. I feel so bad for not checking this sooner. I was running 96Hz and it felt smooth so that's why I haven't checked it and now I think there is no warranty left. Dreamseller did add a piece of paper telling me they tested the monitor to be fine. As far as i can remember my GTX570 sli setup was just fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Yer do frame test like in post 1 in this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club under overclocking then also check FPS with fraps to see if the GPU is jumping at lower rez like 1080 then check 1440 resolution last I guess (on the qnix only).


Ok just tested on 1440p 60hz like i was running before and there is no frame skipping after testing. I took multiple photos as described in first post and all seems fine. Every frame is being rendered smoothly but still in games it's not as smooth as my old 1080p monitor


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Ok just tested on 1440p 60hz like i was running before and there is no frame skipping after testing. I took multiple photos as described in first post and all seems fine. Every frame is being rendered smoothly but still in games it's not as smooth as my old 1080p monitor


And fps is a constant 60 and no dipping in game?


----------



## Gibby24

I decided to purchase the Qnix a couple of days ago. I almost instantly had regret thinking I should have just went with an Asus for 120 more. My monitor got held up at customs, I had to fill out an FCC paper over the phone. I read a few horror stories about the monitor and regretted it more. It arrived on my doorstep today and I hooked it up. Zero dead pixels and zero backlight bleed. I could not be happier with the purchase lol. It really is stunning and I haven't even began to overclock it yet!


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> And fps is a constant 60 and no dipping in game?


no fps locked at 60 in game. I have vsync on and I made sure fps is running at 60. Itried 75hz for example and on that little bit smoother then I also tried on 83hz pixel clock of 330 and then it's smooth. So I decided ok let's set the game to 1080p and see the smoothness but still it's laggy.

Even on desktop it doesn't feel right.

Ok i have some more info. you know when you run higher hertz and run the fps limited to 60 for example. almost the same effect.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> no fps locked at 60 in game. I have vsync on and I made sure fps is running at 60. Itried 75hz for example and on that little bit smoother then I also tried on 83hz pixel clock of 330 and then it's smooth. So I decided ok let's set the game to 1080p and see the smoothness but still it's laggy.
> 
> Even on desktop it doesn't feel right.
> 
> Ok i have some more info. you know when you run higher hertz and run the fps limited to 60 for example. almost the same effect.


Yes a tricky one! And you have re installed all drivers and made sure the settings were at default? Hard to say...you really need to try another gpu again to be sure I if it's the monitor...annoying! Or even something else with a dvi d connection.


----------



## ahson

I just received mine but I think it's a DOA unit! Very disappointing. I made sure to connect it with the dual dvi-d cable that came with it and connected to my gtx 750 ti card but it doesn't work.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Yes a tricky one! And you have re installed all drivers and made sure the settings were at default? Hard to say...you really need to try another gpu again to be sure I if it's the monitor...annoying! Or even something else with a dvi d connection.


Yes already did that. I even had another pc with another r9 280x installed same issue. wonder if anyone have compared theis monitor @ 60Hz vs a normal 1080p tn panel @ 60Hz to see if it's smoother?

Could it maybe be ghosting?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Yes already did that. I even had another pc with another r9 280x installed same issue. wonder if anyone have compared theis monitor @ 60Hz vs a normal 1080p tn panel @ 60Hz to see if it's smoother?
> 
> Could it maybe be ghosting?


My qnix monitor is very smooth and gets better with higher Hz. Sounds like you have tested most things only thing is it's the same card but small chance it's related only to that and possibly the easy you installed things. Least your not the Brazilian football team right now :O ! (5 goals down)...I guess you have tried beta and normal catalyst...ghosting is more leaving a trail back should still be fairly smooth perhaps do a video and post it hear of it. I know we might not be able to see it properly but do ya best.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> My qnix monitor is very smooth and gets better with higher Hz. Sounds like you have tested most things only thing is it's the same card but small chance it's related only to that and possibly the easy you installed things. Least your not the Brazilian football team right now :O ! (5 goals down)...I guess you have tried beta and normal catalyst...ghosting is more leaving a trail back should still be fairly smooth perhaps do a video and post it hear of it. I know we might not be able to see it properly but do ya best.


haha yeah not that into soccer. I think a video will not show you anything cause I still feel it's at least better than 30fps. i tried all catalyst software like 13.12 or whatever latest then the new 14.x drivers same issue. By tomorow i should have my new pc.

2x r9 280x

4790K

MSI gaming 5

so we should also get a better idea with something fresh. only thing is the gpu is still the same. I have a friend that can come one weekend to test with his gtx760. I know it's not strong enough to handle this but at least i should get an idea.

BTW anyone else that can suggest something else for me


----------



## jbyron

Just received my monitor and hooked it up. Very excited, coming from my 26" Asus this is quite a revelation. The colors are super accurate, so far no dead pixels and minimal backlight bleed (the asus was terrible in that regard). Bought it from Amazon, MNW GLOBAL, it was 299 - 100 in amex reward points. From Korea to Cali in 2 days (ordered Sunday afternoon, received 1pm tuesday).

also: I run a triple boot so I select my OS/HD at the boot, and I was afraid without a scalar I wouldn't get this option. But it works fine on my Sabretooth x79. In case anyone was wondering, I couldn't find any info on that before purchasing.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Nor do I. But the multi-input 10-bit version
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gibby24*
> 
> I decided to purchase the Qnix a couple of days ago. I almost instantly had regret thinking I should have just went with an Asus for 120 more. My monitor got held up at customs, I had to fill out an FCC paper over the phone. I read a few horror stories about the monitor and regretted it more. It arrived on my doorstep today and I hooked it up. Zero dead pixels and zero backlight bleed. I could not be happier with the purchase lol. It really is stunning and I haven't even began to overclock it yet!


Noice. But whats with all these stories lately of people having customs/shipping issues in the USA? Back in my day (roughly last year) shipping to a USA address was problem free entirely


----------



## gobblebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbyron*
> 
> Just received my monitor and hooked it up. Very excited, coming from my 26" Asus this is quite a revelation. The colors are super accurate, so far no dead pixels and minimal backlight bleed (the asus was terrible in that regard). Bought it from Amazon, MNW GLOBAL, it was 299 - 100 in amex reward points. From Korea to Cali in 2 days (ordered Sunday afternoon, received 1pm tuesday).
> 
> also: I run a triple boot so I select my OS/HD at the boot, and I was afraid without a scalar I wouldn't get this option. But it works fine on my Sabretooth x79. In case anyone was wondering, I couldn't find any info on that before purchasing.


I also bought from MNW Global; compared to the horror stories I've heard from other vendors, MNW Global was freakin' awesome. Spoke perfect, clear English, and always responded within 20 or 30 minutes. I ordered on a Thursday night and received it Monday morning. Zero dead pixels, very minimal backlight bleeding! I HIGHLY recommend this seller from Amazon! *+1 for MNW Global*

If you got the DVI model, I highly recommend *Cable Matters Gold Plated DVI-D Dual Link Cable with Ferrites 6 Feet - 4K Resolution Ready* at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I literally went through 3 other cables that had high recommendations, one company even sent me a free replacement, which ALSO was obviously fake/defective, I couldn't even get a visible picture, just a million lines across the screen. The one mentioned above worked INSTANTLY and has allowed 120Hz without any trouble at all.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> I also bought from MNW Global; compared to the horror stories I've heard from other vendors, MNW Global was freakin' awesome. Spoke perfect, clear English, and always responded within 20 or 30 minutes. I ordered on a Thursday night and received it Monday morning. Zero dead pixels, very minimal backlight bleeding! I HIGHLY recommend this seller from Amazon! *+1 for MNW Global*
> 
> If you got the DVI model, I highly recommend *Cable Matters Gold Plated DVI-D Dual Link Cable with Ferrites 6 Feet - 4K Resolution Ready* at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I literally went through 3 other cables that had high recommendations, one company even sent me a free replacement, which ALSO was obviously fake/defective, I couldn't even get a visible picture, just a million lines across the screen. The one mentioned above worked INSTANTLY and has allowed 120Hz without any trouble at all.


So cables really do help in some cases? 8 dollars bah in the UK is more like 20 dollars I'm still wondering if it's worth getting a cable as my monitor can't hit 120. Someone said don't but any over 3 ft that ones 6 ft hmm...


----------



## Zakiel

wow I must have the worst luck ever. I ordered from Green-sum when it was on sale for $290 and it took 3 days to get here. First time I turn it on and this shows up. Hopefully I can get this replace


----------



## barabom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakiel*
> 
> wow I must have the worst luck ever. I ordered from Green-sum when it was on sale for $290 and it took 3 days to get here. First time I turn it on and this shows up. Hopefully I can get this replace


Seems like alot of people have gotten a defect screen latley, myself included


----------



## gobblebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> So cables really do help in some cases? 8 dollars bah in the UK is more like 20 dollars I'm still wondering if it's worth getting a cable as my monitor can't hit 120. Someone said don't but any over 3 ft that ones 6 ft hmm...


The quality of the cable definitely matters, like I mentioned before, with the 3 and the original that I tested, they all performed differently, the original being the best until I bought the one linked above. The 3ft 6ft thing is rubbish and only really applies to much longer cables (and also comes back to the quality of the cable). Either way with this one it doesn't really matter because the copper in this cable is a thicker gauge, so even at 12ft, I wouldn't expect ANY difference at all.

[Edit] For clarity


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> Either way with this one it doesn't really matter because the copper in this cable is a thicker gauge, so even at 12ft, I wouldn't expect ANY difference at all.


Not trying to argue, but I believe you might be wrong here. 12ft vs 3 ft is a big difference. I know for longer distances you use larger wire to compensate typically but I dont think it helps much in this situation. I think you will still have enough of a drop to effect overclocks when your already talking about it being picky to begin with.

I guess you could figure it out here if you were so inclined: use the calculator

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Not trying to argue, but I believe you might be wrong here. 12ft vs 3 ft is a big difference. I know for longer distances you use larger wire to compensate typically but I dont think it helps much in this situation. I think you will still have enough of a drop to effect overclocks when your already talking about it being picky to begin with.
> 
> I guess you could figure it out here if you were so inclined: use the calculator
> 
> http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm


Hmm so I'm thinking 3 or 6 ft and there seems to be 24 awg and 28 is 28 better?


----------



## giltyler

I have a new QX2710LED with the single dual link DVI input and have been trying out a 85HZ overclock and just tried loading Dirt 3 and after it started to load the whole display went black and the game was still running in the background.
I got just far enough in to begin signing in before this happened.

GTX 780Ti is the GPU any thoughts??


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Hmm so I'm thinking 3 or 6 ft and there seems to be 24 awg and 28 is 28 better?


The bigger the wire the more surface area so the less drop, since electricity flows on the outside of the wires. And the lower the gauge the bigger the wire.


----------



## Zakiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> Seems like alot of people have gotten a defect screen latley, myself included


did you get a replacement? If so what is your experience with it.
I'm kinda scare that I just lost $290 from something that arrive damaged that it would cost me to get a replacement.


----------



## jbyron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> I also bought from MNW Global; compared to the horror stories I've heard from other vendors, MNW Global was freakin' awesome. Spoke perfect, clear English, and always responded within 20 or 30 minutes. I ordered on a Thursday night and received it Monday morning. Zero dead pixels, very minimal backlight bleeding! I HIGHLY recommend this seller from Amazon! *+1 for MNW Global*
> 
> If you got the DVI model, I highly recommend *Cable Matters Gold Plated DVI-D Dual Link Cable with Ferrites 6 Feet - 4K Resolution Ready* at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I literally went through 3 other cables that had high recommendations, one company even sent me a free replacement, which ALSO was obviously fake/defective, I couldn't even get a visible picture, just a million lines across the screen. The one mentioned above worked INSTANTLY and has allowed 120Hz without any trouble at all.










first review I left on amazon because the experience was very positive. Shortly after I ordered, they e-mailed (in perfect English), that they needed my phone number to complete the transaction. I e-mailed them and 20 min later I got a friendly "thanks! we've now shipped it!"


----------



## rick19011

Using the monitor driver file games still only run at 60hz...


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakiel*
> 
> did you get a replacement? If so what is your experience with it.
> I'm kinda scare that I just lost $290 from something that arrive damaged that it would cost me to get a replacement.


Buy a square trade warranty ASAP.


----------



## pchampn

I ordered my monitor on Sunday afternoon through Greensum @ eBay and it was shipped on Tuesday from Korea and I received it in Chicagoland area Wednesday afternoon. That is an amazingly fast delivery!

Kind of concerned reading other people's posts about faulty monitors being shipped recently. I will check my monitor and report. Thankfully, I bought the SquareTrade warranty. Hope that helps! Btw...did any fellow members had to deal with SquareTrade and how was your experience?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rick19011*
> 
> Using the monitor driver file games still only run at 60hz...


Which games and I assume you put the higher settings into the settings yes? As in following the overclocking tutorial in the first post of this thread?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Buy a square trade warranty ASAP.


Ah your lucky if you can get one ebay said I couldn't get it I'm the UK and product sold via US site. Ebay is so messy always have problems with it. Thank god my monitors perfect so far. Anyway I got this which is 13 dollars cheaper than buying from their own website heh







http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/231273839061?nav=SEARCH


----------



## dougian

Guys squaretrade works in EU nicely?
In all countries? (I'm from greece)

edit: nvm, i went to buy and it asks whether i'm from US or Canada, so I guess that's a no-no


----------



## barabom

Talked to their support and the QNIX manufactures told them the PCB board was faulty.
So they're sending me a new one with FedEx priority so i can replace it myself (better than sending back the screen myself).
Not sure if i should try to change it myself or go to some local computer shop and ask them to help me, never done something like this before


----------



## derepmaster

Got a QNIX QX2710 monitor just a few days ago and I'm having issues with it.
The picture distorts in a 'zig zag' pattern for a split second, like in old CRT TV sets, every now and then. Usually once or twice every 2-3 hours but it also happened multiple times in a period of 3 seconds.
Happens when I'm browsing the web, playing games, watching videos etc.
Never happened with my previous monitor of course (Which was1080p).
Using a Sapphire Radeon HD7950 Vapor-x 3GB GDDR5 with the dual link DVI they supplied.

Does it mean the monitor is defective?
Does anyone know how that distortion is called? So I'd know what to search for.


----------



## Kirasagi

Anyone using F.lux here having issues toward color calibration? Whenever I turn on F.lux it resets my color calibration. I'm using 'Calibrate display color' on the Control Panel to manually calibrate my monitor.


----------



## kikinshits

*[UPDATE: UPS has refunded me £50 after I wrote to them about the high VAT fees, they realised they had applied an incorrect value to the item and it should have been £24.86 VAT Only]*

I thought id share my experience with buying one of these monitors.

First of all, thanks to everyone for participating. This thread has become an amazing resource.

I ordered a Qnix 2710LED Evo II SE from 'Accessorieswhole' on ebay, for £194.

The seller told me he could mark the value as $200 for customs, but no lower, as people had been found out in the past and fined nearly £1000 for it. Yikes.
It was dispatched on a Thursday from South Korea. I tracked it through Kazakhstan, Poland, Germany, England and finally to my home in Belfast where it was delivered on Monday evening by UPS.
Unfortunately they had attached a charge of £84 customs duty. I found this to be a little excessive when the marked value was £116...

Anyway I had to pay it. (UPS drivers have no change, so i had to pay £90... make sure you have the correct amount on you!) I get the monitor inside and open up the double box. (the box had been dropped on the edge of something hard, piercing right through both boxes into the inside, narrowly avoiding the screen. When i finally get it set up was blown away by the image. IPS is just fantastic. So bright, so clear from every angle, it is head and shoulders above TN. I fired up Wildstar and had a go at 1440p. Beautiful. I scan for dead/stuck pixels... nothing. Turn the lights out and test for back light bleed... nothing! I was expecting some, or even a minimal amount... but this monitor has absolutely none.









But I quickly remembered the real reason I bought this. Overclocking! I have no idea if overclocking will affect the longevity of these monitors... I have no idea how long they normally last anyway.

I used the guide in the first post to update the drivers and use NVCP to set the refresh rate. I could get to 110hz before green lines appeared, I messed with the timings and now can get it up to 120hz fine. Excited, I fired up CSGO.

Holy slippery ballbags, the difference from 60 to 120 is incredible! Its almost overwhelming to have such smooth frames at this resolution, though i have a feeling the more tuned eyes might notice the 8ms response time. I played for 5 hours, it was just beautiful.

The speakers are completely ****. The stand is utterly terrible, i'll be buying a new VESA table mount. It would be nice to have some USB ports.

I really cant fault the screen at all, it is as if i've bought a quality branded product and I will be recommending these to all my friends.

Thanks again for everyone's comments, stories, guides etc, it is much appreciated!

I am a pathetically happy man.









[Btw in case anyone is curious, I have a 4670k at 4.2ghz, 16gigs ram and a gtx 770 2gb amp! edition GPU, Wildstar was running well on 1080p, with high frames in the 70's, lows in the cities were sometimes down to 20's tho. Now its the same in cities, but i cant get past around 60 open world. Dayz and CSGO have virtually no difference. I was worried I was immediately going to need another 770 or an upgrade, but this is not the case]


----------



## dpl2007

Hmmm ok so I plugged my second 290 in (for crossfire) and I think it might of overwritten the special settings and or drivers as my 96HZ setting has disappeared. Do I just install from the start again or just try to recover it somehow? Thanks


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Hmmm ok so I plugged my second 290 in (for crossfire) and I think it might of overwritten the special settings and or drivers as my 96HZ setting has disappeared. Do I just install from the start again or just try to recover it somehow? Thanks


I would start again fresh


----------



## barabom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikin****s*
> 
> I thought id share my experience with buying one of these monitors.
> 
> First of all, thanks to everyone for participating. This thread has become an amazing resource.
> 
> I ordered a Qnix 2710LED Evo II SE from 'Accessorieswhole' on ebay, for £194.
> 
> The seller told me he could mark the value as $200 for customs, but no lower, as people had been found out in the past and fined nearly £1000 for it. Yikes.
> It was dispatched on a Thursday from South Korea. I tracked it through Kazakhstan, Poland, Germany, England and finally to my home in Belfast where it was delivered on Monday evening by UPS.
> Unfortunately they had attached a charge of £84 customs duty. I found this to be a little excessive when the marked value was £116...
> 
> Anyway I had to pay it. (UPS drivers have no change, so i had to pay £90... make sure you have the correct amount on you!) I get the monitor inside and open up the double box. (the box had been dropped on the edge of something hard, piercing right through both boxes into the inside, narrowly avoiding the screen. When i finally get it set up was blown away by the image. IPS is just fantastic. So bright, so clear from every angle, it is head and shoulders above TN. I fired up Wildstar and had a go at 1440p. Beautiful. I scan for dead/stuck pixels... nothing. Turn the lights out and test for back light bleed... nothing! I was expecting some, or even a minimal amount... but this monitor has absolutely none.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I quickly remembered the real reason I bought this. Overclocking! I have no idea if overclocking will affect the longevity of these monitors... I have no idea how long they normally last anyway.
> 
> I used the guide in the first post to update the drivers and use NVCP to set the refresh rate. I could get to 110hz before green lines appeared, I messed with the timings and now can get it up to 120hz fine. Excited, I fired up CSGO.
> 
> Holy slippery ballbags, the difference from 60 to 120 is incredible! Its almost overwhelming to have such smooth frames at this resolution, though i have a feeling the more tuned eyes might notice the 8ms response time. I played for 5 hours, it was just beautiful.
> 
> The speakers are completely ****. The stand is utterly terrible, i'll be buying a new VESA table mount. It would be nice to have some USB ports.
> 
> I really cant fault the screen at all, it is as if i've bought a quality branded product and I will be recommending these to all my friends.
> 
> Thanks again for everyone's comments, stories, guides etc, it is much appreciated!
> 
> I am a pathetically happy man.


Im happy for you that everything went well!








Now i just hope that when i've changed the board on my screen that it will work so i can play CO:GO on it aswell


----------



## King PWNinater

Hey guys. I'm trying to overclock my Qnix. I'm able to apply 110hz in my display setting, but when I test in UFO, it says I'm only at 60FPS/60hz. What do?


----------



## dougian

Hey guys, I just got my QNIX too!
Only got it fired up for a few hours, but it's looking great so far

No dead/stuck pixels and only minimal bleed (barely noticeable) in the bottom left corner.
No charge at the customs, so overall i'm so.damn.happy with it for the time being

I was wondering, can you overclock the monitor in OSX? I'd like to see if it feels smoother even on the desktop


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm trying to overclock my Qnix. I'm able to apply 110hz in my display setting, but when I test in UFO, it says I'm only at 60FPS/60hz. What do?


Have you tried using a different browser?


----------



## King PWNinater

Firefox, Chrome, and IE all give me 60.


----------



## rcox100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King PWNinater*
> 
> Firefox, Chrome, and IE all give me 60.


May be obvious, but did you download the correct driver for your video card? And then install it using device manager?


----------



## rcox100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> Im happy for you that everything went well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i just hope that when i've changed the board on my screen that it will work so i can play CO:GO on it aswell


Mine overclocked to 100hz and I instantly went to play csgo, can confirm that it is awesome.


----------



## rcox100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Nor do I. But the multi-input 10-bit version
> Noice. But whats with all these stories lately of people having customs/shipping issues in the USA? Back in my day (roughly last year) shipping to a USA address was problem free entirely


Yeah I just got mine after I ordered it on the sale and all I had to do is sign for it.


----------



## kefan77

quick question, after holding out for a while,

PERFECT PIXEL X-STAR DP2710LED from dreamseller dropped to $319.90 shipped to where I'm based.

any reason not to hit that buy-now button? I already have it in cart. talk to me.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

You can buy the non-pixel perfect version if the price is way lower.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kefan77*
> 
> quick question, after holding out for a while,
> 
> PERFECT PIXEL X-STAR DP2710LED from dreamseller dropped to $319.90 shipped to where I'm based.
> 
> any reason not to hit that buy-now button? I already have it in cart. talk to me.


Nope. Just as long as you are aware of the slight chance you run of having to deal with a damaged monitor--Dreamseller is cool because he is easy to communicate with. Even if you get struck with bad luck as long as you are going to be able to deal with the time lost it will eventually go your way. I like Perfect Pixel because Square Trade likes Perfect Pixel, as I understand it. Also if you do get a couple stuck pixels you'll get a discount for each.

The other thing I'm not wild about the Qnix/Xstars is they vary widely. I've owned 3 and 2 were exactly the same and the other was pretty much a different model monitor. From my extensive but not complete research here and elsewhere... I have gathered that there are at least 2 basic PCB types. The 2 Qnix I owned I got from Dreamseller (Ecomade Arena on Amazon but pretty sure they are the same because they shipped from same exact address iirc, could be wrong) and they couldn't do 120Hz. 115 or so and very very tight timings. The X-star I got from a well known hobbiest-reviewer around the forums and it was a real trip... 120Hz easily enough but totally different timings. Higher pixel clock by quite a bit, not capable of running same timings as the 2 Qnix. The X-star was much darker and sort of uneven about it as well. The 2 Qnix were pretty much the finest IPS/PLS monitors I've ever seen or tested. The only problem was they weren't as fast or vibrant as my Catleap


----------



## kikinshits

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kefan77*
> 
> quick question, after holding out for a while,
> 
> PERFECT PIXEL X-STAR DP2710LED from dreamseller dropped to $319.90 shipped to where I'm based.
> 
> any reason not to hit that buy-now button? I already have it in cart. talk to me.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/111258830737?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19e78b0791

This is the one i just bought. It is simply glorious.


----------



## rcox100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kefan77*
> 
> quick question, after holding out for a while,
> 
> PERFECT PIXEL X-STAR DP2710LED from dreamseller dropped to $319.90 shipped to where I'm based.
> 
> any reason not to hit that buy-now button? I already have it in cart. talk to me.


Nope. I have been holding out over a year saving and looking at these monitors. After this $280 sale I couldn't resist. Ordered non pixel perfect version, and it came with no dead pixels, and minimal backlight bleed. Shipped in 4 days from korea to the US. Picture really is beautiful, and so is playing any fps at higher fps. Mine clocked up to 100hz, csgo is so much better, and Fary Cry Blood Dragon is absolutely amazing.


----------



## TGTBATQ

i just got my new qnix pixel-perfect hooked up and working! however, the whites seem weirdly yellow :/ i have another qnix that i'm using (two monitors) and the first one i've had for awhile, has very pure/clear/crisp whites, but this monitor seems to have a very noticeable yellow across all color spectrums
i've tried calibrating it and downloading different profiles but none of them ever change the yellow tint..

/e
after much fiddling around, the culprit is actually the stock cable that came with the unit
was almost certain it was the dual link->mini display adapter i just got, but that works fine
swapped around the cables and now my original monitor is yellow and my new one is beautiful!
gonna grab a few 2awg cables off amazon to remedy the situation


----------



## steven88

How do you guys tell the difference between a power brick failure....or a monitor/electronics failure?


----------



## TGTBATQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> How do you guys tell the difference between a power brick failure....or a monitor/electronics failure?


multimeter the power brick would be my only suggestion


----------



## kyismaster

Lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> How do you guys tell the difference between a power brick failure....or a monitor/electronics failure?


For me visual, oscilloscope, and guess work lol


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steven88*
> 
> How do you guys tell the difference between a power brick failure....or a monitor/electronics failure?


here is a video I made of me and a bud trouble shooting


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Sempre

I was genuinely expecting a solution when i clicked


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I have a new QX2710LED with the single dual link DVI input and have been trying out a 85HZ overclock and just tried loading Dirt 3 and after it started to load the whole display went black and the game was still running in the background.
> I got just far enough in to begin signing in before this happened.
> 
> GTX 780Ti is the GPU any thoughts??


Anyone??


----------



## scatlm

Hey, can anyone link me up to Dream Seller and greensum's listings?









Edit: I found greensum, still need DS


----------



## giltyler

I looked and messaged with the 2 you mentioned and ended up buying from storewithstory.
Very good communication and fast shipping from them also.
You can get the QX2710LED Perfect Pixel for $329 with a best offer.
http://www.ebay.com/usr/storewithstory?_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2754


----------



## scatlm

Hey, how bad is the FPS hit on BF4 when you guys went from 1080 to 1440p? I know it depends on your system, but I'm just trying to get an idea moreorless...is it drastic?

I'm running a Sapphire 7950 w/ 3GB VRAM


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Hey, how bad is the FPS hit on BF4 when you guys went from 1080 to 1440p? I know it depends on your system, but I'm just trying to get an idea moreorless...is it drastic?
> 
> I'm running a Sapphire 7950 w/ 3GB VRAM


Yes, pretty substantial. Expect to drop quality to medium to get a playable framerate with that card. Single 290x in bf4 at 1440p maxed settings gets around 70-90 fps.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yes, pretty substantial. Expect to drop quality to medium to get a playable framerate with that card. Single 290x in bf4 at 1440p maxed settings gets around 70-90 fps.


Thanks +1

Do you think it's still worth it? Would the game still look nicer on 1440p/med settings compared to 1080p/high settings?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Thanks +1
> 
> Do you think it's still worth it? Would the game still look nicer on 1440p/med settings compared to 1080p/high settings?


Absolutely. No question. Plus, get the monitor running at 96 hz and it will be a world of difference.... At least it was to me (at the time when I got my x-star I was running trifire 7950's though).


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Absolutely. No question. Plus, get the monitor running at 96 hz and it will be a world of difference.... At least it was to me (at the time when I got my x-star I was running trifire 7950's though).


Thanks again.

I was originally in the market for a Catleap monitor about 3 years ago before I went on a gaming hiatus... but I'm back and I'm once again looking to go 1440p. I've read quite a few pages in this thread during the past couple of days... could you tell me what the consensus is as far as the best seller/monitor to go for right now? Would the safest person to deal with be Dream Seller? People always seem to bring this name up... and how many of you guys opt for the SquareTrade warranty? I've never been one to buy warranties, frankly. Do you recommend it?

TY


----------



## bond32

I bought mine from dream seller. Most have good experience, mine was ok. Bought mine wanting the glossy pixel perfect, but they didn't have it. Had to basically wait an extra week for a matte finish. Also had to pay extra customs fees with fedex... still no idea why. Shipped to Tennessee.

I personally wouldn't bother with the warranty. If it's DOA you could file an ebay claim I think.


----------



## scatlm

Wow, thats the first I hear of a US based buyer paying for custom fees. I thought we had a trade agreegment with South Korea.. is this the norm? Should I expect to pay more...? I'm in FL

I also want the glossy finish. Could you please link me up to DreamSeller's listings? I did find greensum though... a lot of people always bring that name up as well... also, is there a bad batch going around right now? Lots of people seem to be experiencing issues right out of the box... I'm thinking it's best to wait a bit till they move this current batch.

Thanks once again +1


----------



## scatlm

Hey, what's Dreamseller's exact eBay user ID? I did an advanced search in order to find him, but none of the Dreamseller name variants that came up are THE Dreamseller ...

Also, what's up with this disclaimer?
Quote:


> "We cannot guarantee for no backlight bleed.
> It may have some backlight bleed exist due to panel characteristics.
> Even Apple Cinema Display do not guarantee and responsible for backlight bleed
> and they also do not take return for that reason.
> For same reasons, we also do not guarantee its backlight bleed as return matter.
> However, we do inspect each monitors for its condition and do not sell any monitors with excessive backlight bleed.
> In normal user circumstance it doesn't have any problem, but can be shown in dark circumstance."


Have you guys experienced excessive or even noticeable light bleed with your monitors?

TY


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Wow, thats the first I hear of a US based buyer paying for custom fees. I thought we had a trade agreegment with South Korea.. is this the norm? Should I expect to pay more...? I'm in FL
> 
> I also want the glossy finish. Could you please link me up to DreamSeller's listings? I did find greensum though... a lot of people always bring that name up as well... also, is there a bad batch going around right now? Lots of people seem to be experiencing issues right out of the box... I'm thinking it's best to wait a bit till they move this current batch.
> 
> Thanks once again +1


USA does have that trade agreement with SKorea, and with the exception of Bond32 above and maybe 1 other over the past year, no other US purchaser has paid any import/duty fees.

I also really wanted a "True" glossy finish not "Tempered Glass" over matte which many Korean sellers STILL consider as a glossy panel, don't be fooled, trust me I have researched this extensively, even developing a good relationship with one of the Korean techs. You will have to pay a premium for a true glossy $600-$700 like below, and even then I wonder if they are being honest as I have seen no one within this thread report back on the premium cost glossy QX2710 panel. About a year ago there were a few genuine glossy's around at the same price point as the matte, but no longer









Read a little bit more about it *[HERE]* or just search "glossy" within this thread









Premium glossy ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Glossy-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/321099912197?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac30bd405

You can check "dream-seller" other offerings through that link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DPORT-27-Slim-Monitor-Glossy-/141021389476?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d587a2a4

The present batch seems to be on par with what I've seen over the last 10mos with the exception of not as many out of the box (no timing"s change) stable 120Hz overclockers ... many of them will do 110Hz with almost all of them guaranteed to do 96Hz. But they are all "matte" panels.

Watch out for any version of the multi-input True10 models ... they all drop frames when overclocked!
Or read more *HERE*
Make sure this info is in the listing ...

Compatibility ...
This is By-Pass Model and doesn't have AD Board.
PC graphic card must surport Dual link DVI.
Macbook, Laptops and On-Board graphics cards are also NOT compatible.
Please check display port of graphic card for compatibility with Monitor,
Because monitor be unable to support all display port of your PC.

Accessorieswhole has the best deal right now but make sure they have the exact model in stock as they have many times tried to substitute the True10 model after they have your money









http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b

Also understand it's an "SE" model which I can verify has less stringent quality control per my contact.

I recommend "storewithstory" at this time as they have a very good track record especially with CS (Greg)!
They also have FREE DoA return









http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-/221413502872?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338d45ef98

Hope all that helps ... let us know how it goes


----------



## scatlm

Wow, man. That is incredibly helpful. I really appreciate that. If I could rep you 1K times, I would...

Thanks again

Edit:

storewithstory's listing is about $50-60 more though. I gotta do some thinking... I think I'm going to pull the trigger on accessorieswhole's ... I'm feeling lucky









..and just send him I message that I dont want the True10 model, etc.


----------



## the9quad

I got really lucky and think I got one of the last true glossy monitors but that was about a year ago. I love it!


----------



## AdamHD

Hey guys, just pulled the trigger on a Qnix QX2710 yesterday. I am excited. Paid $279 (from accessorieswhole). I am a little bummed because today I noticed I could have saved another 10% by using an ebay coupon (would have made it only $250!), but that's ok. $279 is a pretty amazing price to begin with. The monitor actually shipped out today (friday), and I am set to receive it Monday.... That's CRAZY fast shipping. Fingers crossed on the dead pixel/back-light bleeding stuff. Glad to join the club!


----------



## jbyron

best of luck! report back with results! it's gonna rock your world.


----------



## Sonah

Hi

Can anybody here Help me to find a good price for Glossy Perfect pixel 27Inch PLS overclocked monitor?
I see Strange prices in Ebay









is it to Late for me to bye Qnix/X-Star Monitor?
why I always see matte monitors only in Ebay and Amazon? did they stop selling PLS Glossy Monitors?

Please help


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sonah*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Can anybody here Help me to find a good price for Glossy Perfect pixel 27Inch PLS overclocked monitor?
> I see Strange prices in Ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it to Late for me to bye Qnix/X-Star Monitor?
> why I always see matte monitors only in Ebay and Amazon? did they stop selling PLS Glossy Monitors?
> 
> Please help


Are you located in the middle east? I think some places may have a trade embargo or otherwise be significantly more difficult to ship there....

Prices for the USA and EU are roughly $300 USD for one of these monitors. If you live in the middle east, I could see paying a little bit more than those countries would but not $700...


----------



## biermacht

After a little over a year my X-star died. Power light goes on, but no picture. Brought it to my local TV guy and he says it's a mainboard problem. Says this manufacturer uses it's own board and he's having a hard time finding parts. Anyone hear of or know of anyone having their Qnix or X-star repaired in the states?


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biermacht*
> 
> After a little over a year my X-star died. Power light goes on, but no picture. Brought it to my local TV guy and he says it's a mainboard problem. Says this manufacturer uses it's own board and he's having a hard time finding parts. Anyone hear of or know of anyone having their Qnix or X-star repaired in the states?


Did he elaborate at all? It could just be blown capacitors which is a really easy fix. Repair shops like to just replace the whole board because it's less work and you're paying for it anyway.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biermacht*
> 
> After a little over a year my X-star died. Power light goes on, but no picture. Brought it to my local TV guy and he says it's a mainboard problem. Says this manufacturer uses it's own board and he's having a hard time finding parts. Anyone hear of or know of anyone having their Qnix or X-star repaired in the states?


This happened to me with a Viewsonic monitor. It was bad capacitors (you could tell they were damaged by visual inspection). The fix is to just solder on new caps.

I hope your problem is as simple.

Edit:
ninjaed


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Hey, what's Dreamseller's exact eBay user ID? I did an advanced search in order to find him, but none of the Dreamseller name variants that came up are THE Dreamseller ...
> 
> Also, what's up with this disclaimer?
> Have you guys experienced excessive or even noticeable light bleed with your monitors?
> 
> TY


Try Storewithstory mine is perfect pixel with no noticeable backlight bleed.


----------



## scatlm

Yeah, frankly, I think it might be worth it go with Storewithstory. The accessories guy has that disclaimer where he says you can't return it due to dead pixels. Even his "perfect pixel" listing is not guarnateed to be totally free of dead/stuck pixels. It has to be more than 2 for the PP, and more than 5 dead/stuck pixels for the standard SE model... what's the lowest offern that Storewithsotry accepts?


----------



## giltyler

He accepted my best offer @ $329 on my perfect pixel but I had just decided to use the Buy it now since it was only $334 he even offered to refund the $5.00 but I told him to keep it.
The guys name is Bruce.
I bought it on a Sunday evening 6/29 and it was on my porch 7/3 before noon


----------



## cathole

I've just bought a true10 SE from accessorieswhole (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/111380376174?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item19eec9aa6e&_uhb=1) which he claims has no frame-skipping, I tested it on http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping following their procedure at 96Hz and 110Hz and this is what I got:




I'm pretty damn annoyed, am I just doing something wrong? Or is the new no frame-skipping PCB and outright lie? I'm followed the instructions in the OP (using a GTX670) and OC'd with NvCP on automatic timings (so i only changed the refresh rate and res).

EDIT: Oh and the photos were taken with Canon 500D at 1/5th of second exposure as per testufo's instructions. I also have no background apps or tabs running and have checked that my browser is compatible


----------



## scatlm

Did you buy a QX2710, but got a True10 instead?

I don't even know why he has the "Make Offer" option if he doesnt accept any odffers less than 329...lol I made a 325 offer and got automatically DE-NIED ... I'm about to offer 329... lol....But I'm having cold feet.... dont know why...lmao


----------



## luckiecks

Don't these monitors supposedly not have scalers or something. I just got mine today and it's playing starcraft fine at my old resolution.


----------



## scatlm

Who did you buy it from? Is it pixel perfect? What are your thought so far?


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Did you buy a QX2710, but got a True10 instead?
> Thanks+1
> 
> I don't even know why he has the "Make Offer" option if he doesnt accept any odffers less than 329...lol I made a 325 offer and got automatically DE-NIED ... I'm about to offer 329... lol....But I'm having cold feet.... dont know why...lmao


I tried offering less at first also with a $321 offer that auto declined and then went to $329 and ended up doing Buy It Now while they were considering the offer since I just wanted it.
Mine shipped DHL and they have really detailed tracking(I set my tracking to text my phone with all movements)

I also think the perfect pixel was worth the extra $$ just in case a EBAY or PAYPAL claim was required.
They also put a standard computer power cord in the box instead of the plug adaptor that adds bulk to the a/c input.


----------



## luckiecks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Who did you buy it from? Is it pixel perfect? What are your thought so far?


Are you asking me


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> I tried offering less at first also with a $321 offer that auto declined and then went to $329 and ended up doing Buy It Now while they were considering the offer since I just wanted it.
> Mine shipped DHL and they have really detailed tracking(I set my tracking to text my phone with all movements)
> 
> I also think the perfect pixel was worth the extra $$ just in case a EBAY or PAYPAL claim was required.
> They also put a standard computer power cord in the box instead of the plug adaptor that adds bulk to the a/c input.


Cool. I messaged the other seller, Accessorieswhatever, the one for $280 shipped to see if he could send me one with zero dead/stuck pixels.... if he doesn't answer by tomorrow, then I'll just order from Storewithstory
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckiecks*
> 
> Are you asking me


Yes


----------



## luckiecks

I bought it from accessorieswhole. It wasn't pixel perfect but there aren't any dead or stuck ones that I can see. Minor blb that I can't see during normal use. The monitor is insane. Came from a 20" 1680x1050 TN panel. The size unquestionably eased the 16:10 to 16:9 transition.


----------



## mindadapanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Cool. I messaged the other seller, Accessorieswhatever, the one for $280 shipped to see if he could send me one with zero dead/stuck pixels.... if he doesn't answer by tomorrow, then I'll just order from Storewithstory
> Yes


Honestly they probably would promise you something like that or maybe not and end up just shipping you w/e they have in stock. You have to understand they probably move units like crazy so to cater to your request is probably time and money out of their hands. I'm pretty sure their margin's are pretty slim so anytime wasted ensuring that they send you a pixel perfect one for $280 is slim at best. Not to be a debbie downer or get your hopes down. My best advice is just to order it and say screw it, because obviously you seem pretty set on getting one. Don't let the stuck pixels or w/e scare you, I honestly bet most people can't even tell there is/are stuck pixels. It's just some over zealous nit picky people that's got you all anxious. Trust me, I was the same before. I just said screw it and pulled the trigger. I literally was going to buy it 2 days ago from green-sum. I ended up waiting and he raised the price to $329 so I ended up buying from accessorieswhole.

just do it man, you honestly have nothing to lose with a price tag of 279.


----------



## aaaflyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckiecks*
> 
> Don't these monitors supposedly not have scalers or something. I just got mine today and it's playing starcraft fine at my old resolution.


same question here. i can actually play @1080p


----------



## mindadapanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> same question here. i can actually play @1080p


is that full screen? It looks to me that while it is running at 1080p it is not occupying the entire screen. I believe monitor scaling actually means taking an input and filling in the pixels (making up for the missing pixels that should be there, i.e. a 720p signal on a 1080p monitor)


----------



## aaaflyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindadapanda*
> 
> is that full screen? It looks to me that while it is running at 1080p it is not occupying the entire screen. I believe monitor scaling actually means taking an input and filling in the pixels (making up for the missing pixels that should be there, i.e. a 720p signal on a 1080p monitor)


this is not a screencap by me. But for me I was playing watch dogs and i can set to 1080p, full screen, no black box. if i switch on AA i cannot tell the difference from 1440p. qnix 2710 se single dual link input


----------



## aaaflyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> your guide is clear and I followed every steps til the end. However it was not successful. It kept @ 60hz.
> 
> the final step I did:
> 
> 
> 
> go into CCC, under desktop management, click on desktop properties. This is where I can change the refresh rate and it is now a success!
> 
> In CRU, I have 3 profiles, so in CCC I can choose 60hz, 96hz and 110hz. All successful without changing the timing. didnt bother 120hz.
> 
> And in some games I can choose the refresh rate I set in the CRU too, in my case, 60/96/110.
> 
> running sapphire tri x 290
> AMD Catalyst Control Center Version 2014.0417.2226.38446
> Catalyst Version 14.4


no one finds this useful? or you guys no need to do this step?


----------



## luckiecks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> same question here. i can actually play @1080p


Same. I didn't want to test it at first but 1080p works. Is this new?


----------



## mindadapanda

I guess something is making up for the lost pixels if you guys are saying it is working fine when you set it to 1080p and the monitor is still full screen, that's actually pretty dope, I was always under the impression that 1440p or bust on these monitors. Did @luckiecks and @aaaflyer both get from accessorieswhole?


----------



## luckiecks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindadapanda*
> 
> is that full screen? It looks to me that while it is running at 1080p it is not occupying the entire screen. I believe monitor scaling actually means taking an input and filling in the pixels (making up for the missing pixels that should be there, i.e. a 720p signal on a 1080p monitor)


That was me at 1680x1050 which is 16:10


----------



## yasamoka

Guys...GPU is doing the scaling. This is pretty clear when you take a good look at the control panel and what the options do.

The monitor still lacks a scaler. 1440p signal or bust on these monitors. That means you need a device that can output a 1440p signal. PCs do it by performing the upscaling on the GPU. PS3 / 360 / etc... cannot upscale 1080p to 1440p, and probably don't support a 1440p output in the first place.


----------



## giltyler

To anyone looking at the 2560 Korean Monitor

I messaged all of the main sellers multiple times with questions and $329 was the best price for Perfect Pixel from a seller who offers to pay return shipping if you have a serious problem.

Currently redcap has a perfect pixel for $304 ($334-$30) but does not list free return shipping so take that into account.


----------



## luckiecks

Have there been instances of perfectly good monitors randomly dying months or weeks later


----------



## caenlen

Don't buy the qnix TRUE10 1440p overclockable from AccessoriesWhole ---- terrible monitor, won't overclock any!!!! i have another qnix that oc's just fine.... got it from dream seller like over a year ago...

wow cant belive this, sucks so bad, im out 300 bucks, unless i want to pay 120 to ship it back...


----------



## the9quad

Well it's not like there aren't a thousand and one posts on here warning people to NOT buy the true10 regardless of whether they promise it will overclock or not. It's been mentioned veryvery often. They do not overclock!


----------



## scatlm

Thanks everyone for the help.

How often has Accessorieswhole sent True10's instead of the advertised QX2710's? I would suspect that he'd lose alot of business if he sent a different item than what he's advertising, but a couple of people did mention it to me... just wondering if I should even worry about that. I'd hate to pay 120 for return shipping in the event that I get one


----------



## luckiecks

I have two issues with my otherwise good monitor. I can't adjust the brightness for one, which is fine with f.lux, but I don't know if it may be indicative of a worse problem. And when I turn off my computer but not the monitor the blue led flashes red. Only if I turn off the monitor manually does the led turn off completely.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Well it's not like there aren't a thousand and one posts on here warning people to NOT buy the true10 regardless of whether they promise it will overclock or not. It's been mentioned veryvery often. They do not overclock!


I will add this information into the FAQ in the OP, if it already isn't there


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I will add this information into the FAQ in the OP, if it already isn't there


That would be great wntrsnowg. You would save a lot of time for many buyers


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I will add this information into the FAQ in the OP, if it already isn't there


Hey, thanks for putting this thread together. I just repped all of your posts (for what ever it's worth.)

I just got one question regarding the input lag though. In the FAQ you clearly do not recommend it for fast paced shooters. My main use for now will be BF4... and a number of other owners have recommended it to me regardless. Do you think I'll get any significant blur in BF4?

TY


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I will add this information into the FAQ in the OP, if it already isn't there
> 
> 
> 
> That would be great wntrsnowg. You would save a lot of time for many buyers
Click to expand...

Thank you! Hopefully it comes in handy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I will add this information into the FAQ in the OP, if it already isn't there
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, thanks for putting this thread together. I just repped all of your posts (for what ever it's worth.)
> 
> I just got one question regarding the input lag though. In the FAQ you clearly do not recommend it for fast paced shooters. My main use for now will be BF4... and a number of other owners have recommended it to me regardless. Do you think I'll get any significant blur in BF4?
> 
> TY
Click to expand...

Thank you as well! As far as input lag goes, I feel that it is playable for sure on the qnix, however, I just want people to know what they are getting themselves into (and to not fool themselves). If people get a qnix and they are coming from a 2ms response time screen, there will be a compromise between response time and overall quality of image (and life? large resolution). If people are getting a qnix and are coming from your basic monitor (whatever response time, higher than 2ms), than the difference wont be so noticeable


----------



## scatlm

Yeah, I'm running on a run-of-the-mill 23" Samsung 1080p w/ 2ms ... but I agree. I don't think I'll notice it. I don't notice it on my flatscreen TV and it's got much worse input lag.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Hey, thanks for putting this thread together. I just repped all of your posts (for what ever it's worth.)
> 
> I just got one question regarding the input lag though. In the FAQ you clearly do not recommend it for fast paced shooters. My main use for now will be BF4... and a number of other owners have recommended it to me regardless. Do you think I'll get any significant blur in BF4?
> 
> TY


Depends on how sensitive you are to it, I do not notice it at all. I built my rig just for BF4 btw, and am very pleased with the QNIX at 120hz. If you are coming from a 60hz monitor the blur is going to be miles better, if you coming from one of those 144hz TN's with lightboost then it will be worse, because those for all purposes have no blur, and this has a slight blur.

I'd say this is an accurate representation:










SOURCE


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Hey, thanks for putting this thread together. I just repped all of your posts (for what ever it's worth.)
> 
> I just got one question regarding the input lag though. In the FAQ you clearly do not recommend it for fast paced shooters. My main use for now will be BF4... and a number of other owners have recommended it to me regardless. Do you think I'll get any significant blur in BF4?
> 
> TY


I have not noticed ant blur with my QNIX QX2710 LED and it does 120HZ Storewithstory sent the zero dead pixel screen to me.
Several sellers state that there can be 1 bad pixel on their perfect pixel screens.


----------



## scatlm

I'm aware that you don't fully reap the benefits of 120Hz unless your system is capable of pumping out 120 FPS, but do you still notice an improvement regardless? My system is currently running 1080p, and it's barely doing 75 and it drops to under 60 during heavy action on BF4. Would I even benefit from 120Hz?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cathole*
> 
> I've just bought a true10 SE from accessorieswhole (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/111380376174?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item19eec9aa6e&_uhb=1) which he claims has no frame-skipping, I tested it on http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping following their procedure at 96Hz and 110Hz and this is what I got:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty damn annoyed, am I just doing something wrong? Or is the new no frame-skipping PCB and outright lie? I'm followed the instructions in the OP (using a GTX670) and OC'd with NvCP on automatic timings (so i only changed the refresh rate and res).
> 
> EDIT: Oh and the photos were taken with Canon 500D at 1/5th of second exposure as per testufo's instructions. I also have no background apps or tabs running and have checked that my browser is compatible
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> Don't buy the qnix TRUE10 1440p overclockable from AccessoriesWhole ---- terrible monitor, won't overclock any!!!! i have another qnix that oc's just fine.... got it from dream seller like over a year ago...
> 
> wow cant belive this, sucks so bad, im out 300 bucks, unless i want to pay 120 to ship it back...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I will add this information into the FAQ in the OP, if it already isn't there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

*@ wntrsnowg* ... The info is there, but it isn't easily found. It is buried in the FAQ header and apparently a lot of people are not paying attention







I have encountered much confusion/questions even since your update 5/21/14









I would create a new header under "Monitor Information" titled ...

*"ALL Multi-input / True10 models WON'T OVERCLOCK"*

I would also repeat this information in the "Overclocking Guide and Help" header ...

I would also rewrite the info ... you could cut n paste or link my comments from *[HERE]*
It is more clearly explained what is going on and has LINKS for PROOF!

Hope you see this ... keep up the good work









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sonah*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Can anybody here Help me to find a good price for Glossy Perfect pixel 27Inch PLS overclocked monitor?
> I see Strange prices in Ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it to Late for me to bye Qnix/X-Star Monitor?
> why I always see matte monitors only in Ebay and Amazon? did they stop selling PLS Glossy Monitors?
> 
> Please help
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Are you located in the middle east? I think some places may have a trade embargo or otherwise be significantly more difficult to ship there....
> 
> Prices for the USA and EU are roughly $300 USD for one of these monitors. If you live in the middle east, I could see paying a little bit more than those countries would but not $700...
Click to expand...

I believe Sonah is looking for a true Glossy only ... so if you want a true glossy QNIX that overclocks you'll have to pay $600-$700 ... see my post *HERE*

@Sonah ... I live in the US so I can't really help you search for what models are available in Kuwait









*BUT* if you don't need the overclock (60Hz) OK and want a beautiful glossy picture for appx $400 and possibly available in Kuwait, then I recommend per MenacingTuba ...

MOTV M2700LED QPLUS 27" 2560x1440 S-IPS Computer Monitor ... oooops Sold Out ...
Read more of MenacingTuba's recommendations *HERE*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biermacht*
> 
> After a little over a year my X-star died. Power light goes on, but no picture. Brought it to my local TV guy and he says it's a mainboard problem. Says this manufacturer uses it's own board and he's having a hard time finding parts. Anyone hear of or know of anyone having their Qnix or X-star repaired in the states?


Contact Bruce at "storewithstory" ... the last board he shipped out was appx $65 ... but as others commented repairing the board may be a better option, replace with higher quality capacitors!

You may also contact Overlord Computers http://overlordcomputer.com/ ... but IIRC their very high quality OC boards were running $200???


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> I'm aware that you don't fully reap the benefits of 120Hz unless your system is capable of pumping out 120 FPS, but do you still notice an improvement regardless? My system is currently running 1080p, and it's barely doing 75 and it drops to under 60 during heavy action on BF4. Would I even benefit from 120Hz?


What CPU/GPU are you running


----------



## scatlm

A modest Phenom-II 955 BE @ 3.7 GHz and a Sapphire 7950 3GB...

I could hit 4 GHz but I don't like to run my fans at max speed and stress the HW. (If that would even make a difference)


----------



## Ramzinho

i tired to OC my monitor using the driver patcher and CRU.. i got this ugly green lines everywhere. i didn't take pictures. apparently it's driver related. as after i removed the driver it's gone.

i am removing and re installing drivers.. hope i didn't brick anything.

That OC was at 96hz

any ideas?
or i've a bad luck?

*EDIT*
fresh install of drivers. i'm now at 96Hz. any method to test it?


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> A modest Phenom-II 955 BE @ 3.7 GHz and a Sapphire 7950 3GB...
> 
> I could hit 4 GHz but I don't like to run my fans at max speed and stress the HW. (If that would even make a difference)


Do you OC the 7950?
With the higher resolution game settings can be dialed back a bit to keep good frames.

From what I have read here at OCN the Radeon7950/7970 cards do well with the 1440P
You can always grab a good deal on a 2nd 7950 they are selling cheap on the used market.

You really will like the QNIX or Q-Star for the money.


----------



## luckiecks

Is the blue led flashing red normal when you turn your pc off


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckiecks*
> 
> Is the blue led flashing red normal when you turn your pc off


yes. turn off the monitor and it's gone


----------



## luckiecks

Got it.. does everyone turn theirs off?


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Do you OC the 7950?
> With the higher resolution game settings can be dialed back a bit to keep good frames.
> 
> From what I have read here at OCN the Radeon7950/7970 cards do well with the 1440P
> You can always grab a good deal on a 2nd 7950 they are selling cheap on the used market.
> 
> You really will like the QNIX or Q-Star for the money.


It already comes slightly OC. I could OC it more, but frankly I dont see any difference in the game. I get the same amount of FPS moreorless, so I just leave it at stock clocks

Yeah, I'm thinking of getting a second 7950. Though I'd need to upgrade the PSU and probably get more fans for the case.

I'm going to get the QX2710 from Accessories and just hope for the best.









I'll report back when I receive it


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> It already comes slightly OC. I could OC it more, but frankly I dont see any difference in the game. I get the same amount of FPS moreorless, so I just leave it at stock clocks
> 
> Yeah, I'm thinking of getting a second 7950. Though I'd need to upgrade the PSU and probably get more fans for the case.
> 
> I'm going to get the QX2710 from Accessories and just hope for the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll report back when I receive it


What price did you get? is it perfect pixel or standard?


----------



## scatlm

LOL...$290... that's what I get for over-thinking my purchases. $10 taxation. But it's no biggie. It's still significantly less than any of the other sellers... and if you look at his feedback... for some odd reason people buy his other more expensive QX2710 lisitngs... AND THEY'RE THE SAME EXACT ONE!!! SAME EXACT LISTING except it's priced higher. LOL Not to mention the "overclockable" True10's...


----------



## giltyler

Good price scat

I splurged the extra for the perfect option just to not have to deal with any dead, stuck, or bright pixel.
It arrived the same day as my EVGA 780Ti I got through their step up program.

I need to get the water block installed next and it is here waiting till I decide to drain the loop


----------



## bluedevil

Slight issue. I can't OC past 80hz when I could go to about 92hz. All I did was take my Qnix down from the wall and clean up a bit. Now I reverted back to stock.









///edit

Fixed it. Installed 14.4, patched. Works at 92hz!


----------



## stefanox92

Does andybody test the new qnix 30" multi input?


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckiecks*
> 
> Got it.. does everyone turn theirs off?


No, I put a bit of tape over the light so it wasn't so bright and I just leave it on.


----------



## caenlen

I want a glass version, I don't like Matte and my room is always dark anyway.

Only one I can find is Xstar from dream seller, any other options out there? Hoping to OC to 110hz so my memory can still downclock


----------



## AdamHD

Does anyone want a 10% off eBay coupon code? I got it (or at least NOTICED it) the *day after* I ordered my monitor. Haha. It expires TODAY, and would hate to see it go to waste. Just let me know if you are interested. Would bring down the price of the Qnix (through accessorieswhole) to $260 (USD).


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> Does anyone want a 10% off eBay coupon code? I got it (or at least NOTICED it) the *day after* I ordered my monitor. Haha. It expires TODAY, and would hate to see it go to waste. Just let me know if you are interested. Would bring down the price of the Qnix (through accessorieswhole) to $260 (USD).


Damn. I ordered mine last night.... LOL

Thanks for offering it though. Thats a nice gesture +1

Hey, on a side note, how does the Qnix 2710 compare to the Yamasaki Catleap? ...I remember about 3 years ago, the Catleaps were the rave. That's all everyone was talking about. I was really close to ordering one and then I kinda stopped gaming for a while...


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Damn. I ordered mine last night.... LOL
> 
> Thanks for offering it though. Thats a nice gesture +1


Dang, man. I'm sorry! Hopefully someone else is on the verge of buying and can use it to buy a monitor. Or, if they just want to buy ANYTHING on eBay. It's 10% off any purchase of $50 or more, max discount of $100. Hopefully it can be redeemed by someone other than me. Its definitely worth a shot!


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> I want a glass version, I don't like Matte and my room is always dark anyway.
> 
> Only one I can find is Xstar from dream seller, any other options out there? Hoping to OC to 110hz so my memory can still downclock


I wanted glossy, too. I eventually gave up. Didn't want to spend $600+ for a "real" (not the tempered glass) glossy version. I did however see that Green-Sum has them listed on the actual Green Sum website (not on eBay) www.green-sum.com. It says the starting price on the glossy X-Star is $291.04, and says they are in stock. Might be worth checking out.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> I want a glass version, I don't like Matte and my room is always dark anyway.
> 
> Only one I can find is Xstar from dream seller, any other options out there? Hoping to OC to 110hz so my memory can still downclock


If you are going to spend 600 dollars on a glossy OC monitor do yourself a favor and get an overlord or a catleap. The matte PLS qx2710 panels are fantastic but you can generally get a better OC from the overlord and catleap and they have much more stable colors and brightness while overclocked. The qnix that can hit 120hz get very dim.


----------



## player500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> Does anyone want a 10% off eBay coupon code? I got it (or at least NOTICED it) the *day after* I ordered my monitor. Haha. It expires TODAY, and would hate to see it go to waste. Just let me know if you are interested. Would bring down the price of the Qnix (through accessorieswhole) to $260 (USD).


Hey man, if the offer still stands a 10% coupon code will be much appreciated (the monitor is in my ebay cart)!

Thanks!


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *player500*
> 
> Hey man, if the offer still stands a 10% coupon code will be much appreciated (the monitor is in my ebay cart)!
> 
> Thanks!


PM sent!


----------



## giltyler

Great to Share things like coupons and deals.

Really cool gesture


----------



## AdamHD

I figure if I am not going to use it, someone else should....
and If I were to buy anything else on ebay right now, my wife would kill me.


----------



## murdoc158

Can anyone comment on the Multi TRUE10? I'm looking to replace a 37" Vizio 1080p LCD. I'm not overly concerned with overclocking the monitor. I have my PC and my 360 hooked up to my Vizio. Has anyone tried a 360 connected with HDMI? How does this panel compare to the standard IPS matte screen?


----------



## player500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> PM sent!


Thanks so much! Unfortunately the code did not work for me - it's probably targeted/linked to your account...


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *player500*
> 
> Thanks so much! Unfortunately the code did not work for me - it's probably targeted/linked to your account...


Damn. That sucks. Thought that might happen. Sorry, man.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murdoc158*
> 
> Can anyone comment on the Multi TRUE10? I'm looking to replace a 37" Vizio 1080p LCD. I'm not overly concerned with overclocking the monitor. I have my PC and my 360 hooked up to my Vizio. Has anyone tried a 360 connected with HDMI? How does this panel compare to the standard IPS matte screen?


I think the most important question is which platform do you enjoy gaming on most?

If your fanatical about game performance on the PC platform, when in reality is why this thread exists in the 1st place, you would be disappointed with the performance of the multi True10 as compared to the single-input/PLS QX2710.

1) It will not overclock at all without dropping frames.
2) It has noticeable input lag in fast gaming apps.

Read more in the OP under FAQ *HERE* ... read my comments *HERE* ... AND one of my links will lead you to digitalforce's personal review of the True10. He says for an AH-VA panel the picture and colors were quite nice and on par with his other IPS panel. But he couldn't tolerate the frame dropping and input lag so he sent it back under "false advertising" ... digitalforce review *HERE*

It would also be nice to hear *caenlen's* thoughts on picture quality and input lag as he presently own's both panels ... see *HERE*

BUT if your a big Xbox guy and must have multiple inputs (connections) you won't notice the performance issue's coming from a 1080p TV ... and you might find that this is the monitor for you ... because even @60Hz you'll see a big improvement in graphics for your PC setup, GTX780 @1440p.

Just don't try a monitor [email protected] 1st ... as once you game at the res/refresh with a nice PC rig like yours, YOU WILL NEVER want to settle for less again ... hope that helps/makes sense









Edit: PS It's nice to see system specs filled in for a question like this ... +r


----------



## murdoc158

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I think the most important question is which platform do you enjoy gaming on most?
> 
> If your fanatical about game performance on the PC platform, when in reality is why this thread exists in the 1st place, you would be disappointed with the performance of the multi True10 as compared to the single-input/PLS QX2710.
> 
> 1) It will not overclock at all without dropping frames.
> 2) It has noticeable input lag in fast gaming apps.
> 
> Read more in the OP under FAQ *HERE* ... read my comments *HERE* ... AND one of my links will lead you to digitalforce's personal review of the True10. He says for an AH-VA panel the picture and colors were quite nice and on par with his other IPS panel. But he couldn't tolerate the frame dropping and input lag so he sent it back under "false advertising" ... digitalforce review *HERE*
> 
> It would also be nice to hear *caenlen's* thoughts on picture quality and input lag as he presently own's both panels ... see *HERE*
> 
> BUT if your a big Xbox guy and must have multiple inputs (connections) you won't notice the performance issue's coming from a 1080p TV ... and you might find that this is the monitor for you ... because even @60Hz you'll see a big improvement in graphics for your PC setup, GTX780 @1440p.
> 
> Just don't try a monitor [email protected] 1st ... as once you game at the res/refresh with a nice PC rig like yours, YOU WILL NEVER want to settle for less again ... hope that helps/makes sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: PS It's nice to see system specs filled in for a question like this ... +r


Thanks! I mainly would use this for PC gaming. It's helpful to see that the TRUE10 is on par with the matte as far as colors and clarity. Coming from a 1080p LCD tv I doubt I would see any ghosting with the TRUE10. If I didn't need an HDMI input for the 360 I'd buy the matte without hesitation and probably overclock just to do it.


----------



## Radmanhs

Hey, im wondering whats the difference between all the 2710's, such as this

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885

and

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885

After looking at it, is it different JUST because is has DP?

Also, if you know, what is the typical response rate of a standard lcd tv? I want to see if the 8ms will be better or worse than what i have now


----------



## Malinkadink

I'm looking to order either a QNIX or X-star, and im currently on a glossy ips acer h236hl bid, i like the gloss and it doesn't bother me much, and i see that these two monitors are semi glossy, however from photos it appears that the X-star is noticeably more glossy and the Qnix is leaning a little more towards matte. Is this true or am i crazy? if it be the truth i'll pull the trigger on the X-star and see how it goes.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malinkadink*
> 
> I'm looking to order either a QNIX or X-star, and im currently on a glossy ips acer h236hl bid, i like the gloss and it doesn't bother me much, and i see that these two monitors are semi glossy, however from photos it appears that the X-star is noticeably more glossy and the Qnix is leaning a little more towards matte. Is this true or am i crazy? if it be the truth i'll pull the trigger on the X-star and see how it goes.


Same matte coating.


----------



## anonuser1

I've had a QNIX 2710 for a little over a month and have an issue. Starting today, when I try to turn my monitor on after being off for a while, it will flash the screen for a fraction of a second then turn off. I have been able to make it work by unplugging the PSU from the socket and waiting a bit. Then, it will still flicker a couple times trying to turn on, but eventually work.

Has anyone seen this before? Is this a PSU issue and I need a replacement? Or is this the monitor?

Thanks.


----------



## waldi2ger

Hello,

sorry for my bad english but I use the Google translator.

I use the monitor driver provided here (120Hz 110Hz 96Hz monitor driver using my 120hz Tightened timings). I therefore fully satisfied and the color profile of Yasamoka is it really great.

Unfortunately, I can use the resolution 1920x1080 @ 110Hz and 1920x1200 @ 110Hz with the GPU scaling up in full screen mode. Do I use 96Hz I can let scale the two resolutions to full screen. Can lying on the driver now?

Graphic card is a Gigabyte R9 280x.
Driver = Catalyst Contro Center 14.4

greeting
waldi2ger


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waldi2ger*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> sorry for my bad english but I use the Google translator.
> 
> I use the monitor driver provided here (120Hz 110Hz 96Hz monitor driver using my 120hz Tightened timings). I therefore fully satisfied and the color profile of Yasamoka is it really great.
> 
> Unfortunately, I can use the resolution 1920x1080 @ 110Hz and 1920x1200 @ 110Hz with the GPU scaling up in full screen mode. Do I use 96Hz I can let scale the two resolutions to full screen. Can lying on the driver now?
> 
> Graphic card is a Gigabyte R9 280x.
> Driver = Catalyst Contro Center 14.4
> 
> greeting
> waldi2ger


I think scaling is broke in 14.4, so try Catalyst 14.7 or catalyst 13.12


----------



## waldi2ger

I have now installed the driver 14.7 and the problem is still present. Can any of you test times whether he can use 1920x1080 @ 110Hz or 120Hz @ the GPU scaling, and full screen.

Thank you


----------



## kamran224

are there no more glossy Qnix displays? I see them going for $600+

Can someone explain getting one of these vs crossover 27q? I've owned the 27Q in the past and liked it but not sure if its still the best display.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamran224*
> 
> are there no more glossy Qnix displays? I see them going for $600+
> 
> Can someone explain getting one of these vs crossover 27q? I've owned the 27Q in the past and liked it but not sure if its still the best display.


One reason: Qnix/X-Star can OC. If you don't care and you're ok with 60 hz, go with the crossover.
And if you're talking about those $600 glossy Qnix, you're better of buying the Catleap 120hz monitors.


----------



## AdamHD

My monitor has arrived! Had it shipped to my work, so I will not be able to test it out until I get home.







Shipping was super fast (shipped out Friday, received it today). The box was not wrapped in the bubble wrap or foam wrap that I have seen most people's shipped in. It was basically wrapped in another cardboard box, with about 10 "fragile" stickers on it. Hahaha. At least they didn't skimp on the stickers. The inside and outside box are both in great shape. Does not look like it has traveled halfway across the world, that's for sure. It does have a big fat "SE" sticker on the box. I know people have mentioned that means it will more than likely have a dead pixel or two, so we will just have to see. Fingers crossed.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *@ wntrsnowg* ... The info is there, but it isn't easily found. It is buried in the FAQ header and apparently a lot of people are not paying attention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have encountered much confusion/questions even since your update 5/21/14
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would create a new header under "Monitor Information" titled ...
> 
> *"ALL Multi-input / True10 models WON'T OVERCLOCK"*
> 
> I would also repeat this information in the "Overclocking Guide and Help" header ...
> 
> I would also rewrite the info ... you could cut n paste or link my comments from *[HERE]*
> It is more clearly explained what is going on and has LINKS for PROOF!
> 
> Hope you see this ... keep up the good work


Did some updating with that. Thanks. Also, the overclocking information in the link that you posted has already been posted in the Overclocking help section as a link to lawson's dedicated overclocking thread


----------



## AdamHD

Got everything all set up. No dead pixels (from what I can see)... And I'm not gonna go looking for any, now! Backlight bleed is tolerable. No worse than my Dell UltraSharp U2312HM. The bezel/stand are not as bad as I was expecting. I'm actually glad everyone kept my expectations low, in that department. I am very happy with my purchase. Now, on to overclocking!!  [IMG 
ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2097755/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


----------



## luckiecks

Does anyone have a mirror for atikmdag-patcher-1.2.6.zip the link here is dead http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## george241312

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckiecks*
> 
> Does anyone have a mirror for atikmdag-patcher-1.2.6.zip the link here is dead http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


http://www.monitortests.com/atikmdag-patcher-1.2.6.zip
Works for me.


----------



## AdamHD

Well... It overclocks! Stable at 120hz. I'll probably just keep it at 96hz though (just for games, the rest of the time at 60hz). Loaded up Dragon Age 2 @ 120hz and played for a while. Lowered settings to "very high", and was at a solid 120fps. I'm absolutely blown away. Looks amazing. Definitely happy with my purchase, and honestly very happy that I didn't pay for a "perfect pixel" version. There are no dead pixels as far as I can tell.









Edit: I think I found the only imperfection on the panel. There is a pea sized "smudge" in the top center of the screen. Fortunately it is only noticeable on a pure black screen (the smudge mark is a dark grey, as apposed to the pure black of the screen). No matter what, I can live with it!


----------



## waldi2ger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> Well... It overclocks! Stable at 120hz. I'll probably just keep it at 96hz though (just for games, the rest of the time at 60hz). Loaded up Dragon Age 2 @ 120hz and played for a while. Lowered settings to "very high", and was at a solid 120fps. I'm absolutely blown away. Looks amazing. Definitely happy with my purchase, and honestly very happy that I didn't pay for a "perfect pixel" version. There are no dead pixels as far as I can tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I think I found the only imperfection on the panel. There is a pea sized "smudge" in the top center of the screen. Fortunately it is only noticeable on a pure black screen (the smudge mark is a dark grey, as apposed to the pure black of the screen). No matter what, I can live with it!


Can you with your graphics card (Nvidia) a resolution of 1920x1080 @ 120Hz + GPU scaling / use full screen? On my AMD graphics card (AMD CCC 14.7) I can use a maximum of 1920x1080 with 96Hz + full screen. With 110Hz or 120Hz with this resolution, the image is always displayed centered?

But I would like to use this resolution for games to achieve the necessary FPS. I'm really desperate on because no one answered this question for me.

thanks a lot

waldi2ger


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> Well... It overclocks! Stable at 120hz. I'll probably just keep it at 96hz though (just for games, the rest of the time at 60hz). Loaded up Dragon Age 2 @ 120hz and played for a while. Lowered settings to "very high", and was at a solid 120fps. I'm absolutely blown away. Looks amazing. Definitely happy with my purchase, and honestly very happy that I didn't pay for a "perfect pixel" version. There are no dead pixels as far as I can tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I think I found the only imperfection on the panel. There is a pea sized "smudge" in the top center of the screen. Fortunately it is only noticeable on a pure black screen (the smudge mark is a dark grey, as apposed to the pure black of the screen). No matter what, I can live with it!


Thanks for reporting on yourc new acquisition. Congrats.

Frankly, I was regretting not going for the "perfect pixel" one, but you have my hopes up. I'm still trying to manage my expecations though. But yeah, ignorance is bliss my friend. So, don't micro-inspect everything


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waldi2ger*
> 
> Can you with your graphics card (Nvidia) a resolution of 1920x1080 @ 120Hz + GPU scaling / use full screen? On my AMD graphics card (AMD CCC 14.7) I can use a maximum of 1920x1080 with 96Hz + full screen. With 110Hz or 120Hz with this resolution, the image is always displayed centered?
> 
> But I would like to use this resolution for games to achieve the necessary FPS. I'm really desperate on because no one answered this question for me.
> 
> thanks a lot
> 
> waldi2ger


Yes, I will try that out this evening and report back to you with my findings.


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Thanks for reporting on yourc new acquisition. Congrats.
> 
> Frankly, I was regretting not going for the "perfect pixel" one, but you have my hopes up. I'm still trying to manage my expecations though. But yeah, ignorance is bliss my friend. So, don't micro-inspect everything


Yeah, I usually inspect/tweak/overclock-test the crap out of all my new tech the first day, but then settle in and just start enjoying. I'm already to that point with this new Qnix monitor.


----------



## MrGrievous

Finally ordered my QNIX! Been with this thread since the beginning and finally got the chance to put together a gaming rig and the best part of it isd that the monitor is out for delivery today! YES


----------



## luckiecks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george241312*
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/atikmdag-patcher-1.2.6.zip
> Works for me.


It still 404s for me. Could you please reupload it?


----------



## george241312

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckiecks*
> 
> It still 404s for me. Could you please reupload it?


https://mega.co.nz/#!udtxVBDJ!AJkUFHfl5AMwdv24QCP-gGZrbpPXmU5T920jntf8NTI


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckiecks*
> 
> It still 404s for me. Could you please reupload it?


works for me too, do you have some kind of java blocker or something on?


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waldi2ger*
> 
> Can you with your graphics card (Nvidia) a resolution of 1920x1080 @ 120Hz + GPU scaling / use full screen? On my AMD graphics card (AMD CCC 14.7) I can use a maximum of 1920x1080 with 96Hz + full screen. With 110Hz or 120Hz with this resolution, the image is always displayed centered?
> 
> But I would like to use this resolution for games to achieve the necessary FPS. I'm really desperate on because no one answered this question for me.
> 
> thanks a lot
> 
> waldi2ger


1920x1080 120hz works just fine for me. It is full screen. Desktop, and in tested game (Batman Arkham Origins). I just created a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel (just like 2560x1440 120hz), and it worked for me.


----------



## luckiecks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *george241312*
> 
> https://mega.co.nz/#!udtxVBDJ!AJkUFHfl5AMwdv24QCP-gGZrbpPXmU5T920jntf8NTI


Thank you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> works for me too, do you have some kind of java blocker or something on?


All of the browsers I have won't load it.


----------



## MrGrievous

Monitor was finnaly delivered and it is nothing less than amazing! Went and created blue, red, black, green, and white 1440p images and then looked them over at full screen and te only thing I found was that there is some very minor bl bleed from the too left edge. Very happy! I bought the non perfect one from accessorywhore for 279 on Fri







now going to see see what kind of OC I can get lol


----------



## waldi2ger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> 1920x1080 120hz works just fine for me. It is full screen. Desktop, and in tested game (Batman Arkham Origins). I just created a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel (just like 2560x1440 120hz), and it worked for me.


Thank you for your test! Do you use the monitor driver from here (120hz 110hz 96hz monitor driver using my 120hz tightened timings! (120hz = 459mhz...110hz = 453mhz))? Could just make this test even someone who owns an AMD graphics card like me. The best would be if it were a R9 280x.

I will test it again with the original drivers and monitor self-generated resolutions + refresh rate. It would be a shame if my graphics card just this resolution 1920x1080 does not create more than 96Hz. For the 110Hz I found a super color profile here and would therefore like 24/7 use the 110Hz. At the moment I have to put down on the desktop to 96Hz, so for example the Game 7 Days to Day works in 1920x1080 full screen.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Peen

Anyone running 2 monitors, and Intel rig with SLI and iGPU enabled? I was having a lot of problems watching Netflix (lag) on one monitor, and playing any game on 2nd.

I have my Qnix overclocked to 120hz, and other monitor is a 60hz 1080P monitor.

2x GTX 670 SLI.

So I have the 1080P 60hz monitor connected to the Intel iGPU now, and the Qnix connected to GTX670 and can now watch Netflix on the iGPU and game on the SLI'ed GTX's. Even with no SLI I'm sure it would help.

I didn't see this mentioned anywhere else, so though I would mention.


----------



## waldi2ger

I once even made a few tests. Here's what I've found out there.
With this setting at 110Hz, I can not use 1920x1080 resolution at 110Hz and full screen.

(Automatic - LCD standard)

In these settings it works.

(Manual)

With these settings, it also works.

(Automatic - LCD reduced)

What are these settings? Is it advisable to use them so?


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waldi2ger*
> 
> Thank you for your test! Do you use the monitor driver from here (120hz 110hz 96hz monitor driver using my 120hz tightened timings! (120hz = 459mhz...110hz = 453mhz))? Could just make this test even someone who owns an AMD graphics card like me. The best would be if it were a R9 280x.
> 
> I will test it again with the original drivers and monitor self-generated resolutions + refresh rate. It would be a shame if my graphics card just this resolution 1920x1080 does not create more than 96Hz. For the 110Hz I found a super color profile here and would therefore like 24/7 use the 110Hz. At the moment I have to put down on the desktop to 96Hz, so for example the Game 7 Days to Day works in 1920x1080 full screen.
> 
> Thanks in advance


I just used the monitor driver linked on the very first page on this forum thread. No issues.

I did some more testing last night with different resolutions, refresh rates, and I am not sure why you would want to play games @ 1080p (even at 120hz) on this monitor.. Even with the settings dialed down (2560x1440) it looks WAY better than playing anything at 1920x1080. Even playing 2560x1440 @60hz looked better than 1920x1080 @120hz. This is all just my opinion, but I don't understand why anyone would want to play in non-native resolution. Even 1080p movies seem to play/look better with the monitor's native res.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

has anynoe ran into an issue like this before
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peen*
> 
> Anyone running 2 monitors, and Intel rig with SLI and iGPU enabled? I was having a lot of problems watching Netflix (lag) on one monitor, and playing any game on 2nd.
> 
> I have my Qnix overclocked to 120hz, and other monitor is a 60hz 1080P monitor.
> 
> 2x GTX 670 SLI.
> 
> So I have the 1080P 60hz monitor connected to the Intel iGPU now, and the Qnix connected to GTX670 and can now watch Netflix on the iGPU and game on the SLI'ed GTX's. Even with no SLI I'm sure it would help.
> 
> I didn't see this mentioned anywhere else, so though I would mention.


I didn't know you can do that. Going to take out my 1080p monitor and plug it in. Thank you kind sir..+rep:thumb:


----------



## Peen

You're welcome. I'm going to do some benches when I get home after work later. It will be something like Valley benchmark on GTX670's connected to Qnix via DVI, and 1080P video on other monitor connected to iGPU via HDMI. Then I will disable iGPU and put both monitors on GTX670, to see how the scores differ.

I do know that Netflix running 1080P on 2nd monitor is putting 36% GPU usage on the HD4600 iGPU.


----------



## biermacht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Contact Bruce at "storewithstory" ... the last board he shipped out was appx $65 ... but as others commented repairing the board may be a better option, replace with higher quality capacitors!
> 
> You may also contact Overlord Computers http://overlordcomputer.com/ ... but IIRC their very high quality OC boards were running $200???


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Did he elaborate at all? It could just be blown capacitors which is a really easy fix. Repair shops like to just replace the whole board because it's less work and you're paying for it anyway.


Thanks for all the help guys. I finally just got the monitor back. Shop owner was very vague on what was wrong just reiterated that the board was bad. Took it apart myself and visually the caps look good. Checked them with with an ohmmeter and they seem ok. Wondering if it's worth it to replace them anyways? Anything else I should be looking at or looking for on the board? Thanks.


----------



## mindadapanda

just got my monitor and hooked it up. Did not notice any deal pixels. I will run through the other stuff such as back light bleed test and overclocking and update accordingly.

update: I don't see any back light bleeding. I was able to get to 110hz on overclock. Overall I am pretty satisfied. Good luck to others


----------



## nedim

Awesome, I get mine to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindadapanda*
> 
> just got my monitor and hooked it up. Did not notice any deal pixels. I will run through the other stuff such as back light bleed test and overclocking and update accordingly.
> 
> update: I don't see any back light bleeding. I was able to get to 110hz on overclock. Overall I am pretty satisfied. Good luck to others


Awesome, I get mine tomorrow.


----------



## akaTRAP

I would like to hear from those who have had their monitors for a few months or longer. Preferably longer. I want to know if the Korean models actually last a good while or should I just spend double the price for a longer-lasting 1440p monitor.


----------



## Satchmo0016

I did notice one little thing. I had a monitor for a few months, but recently got two more. The original one has a much bluer hue to it (and using eyefinity you cant seem to correct individual monitors enough). Im not sure if its just the color settling or if it has actually changed. The new two monitors look identical. Maybe just the batch difference too.

Has anybody else noticed the color changing over time with their monitors?


----------



## nedim

Can't wait to get home!

16 Delivered - 10:03

15 With delivery courier CEDAR RAPIDS, IA - USA 09:15

14 Arrived at Delivery Facility in CEDAR RAPIDS - USA CEDAR RAPIDS, IA - USA 09:11

13 Transferred through CEDAR RAPIDS - USA CEDAR RAPIDS, IA - USA 06:32

12 Arrived at Sort Facility CEDAR RAPIDS - USA CEDAR RAPIDS, IA - USA 06:32

11 Departed Facility in CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 05:29

10 Processed at CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 04:27

9 Clearance processing complete at CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 03:25

8 Arrived at Sort Facility CINCINNATI HUB - USA CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 03:07

Wednesday, July 16, 2014 Location Time
7 Customs status updated CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA 11:27

6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 21:53

5 Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 18:56

4 Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 16:28

3 Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 15:48

2 Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 15:47

1 Shipment picked up SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 10:58


----------



## scatlm

Well, I think its fair to say at this point that Accessroeswhole is the go-to seller. I just got mine today and I'm stoked. I got the normal "SE" version and it came with zero dead/stuck pixels. And I'm Overclocked at 100 Hz. It does have some light bleed but it's not much more than your run-of-the-mill TN panels.

What's the average overclock? If I go above 100 Hz , I start getting those green lines. Is that the way to know that you've hit the limit? What other signs should I look for? And should I run it a bit lower than 100 like at 96Hz? I don't want to break anything
















Thanks


----------



## mindadapanda

has anyone noticed ghosting like on plasmas?

I was in windows today and I was restarting my computer and I noticed that during the shutdown phase the blue screen that normally covers it had ghosting images of applications that were open. I'm not near the monitor so I can't really take a picture right now, but I was wondering if anyone had this issue?


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Well, I think its fair to say at this point that Accessroeswhole is the go-to seller. I just got mine today and I'm stoked. I got the normal "SE" version and it came with zero dead/stuck pixels. And I'm Overclocked at 100 Hz. It does have some light bleed but it's not much more than your run-of-the-mill TN panels.
> 
> What's the average overclock? If I go above 100 Hz , I start getting those green lines. Is that the way to know that you've hit the limit? What other signs should I look for? And should I run it a bit lower than 100 like at 96Hz? I don't want to break anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Awesome! I had a great experience from Accessorieswhole, as well. 96hz is a good overclock. People usually suggest a 96hz overclock (if you cannot hit 120hz), because it is a multiple of 24. 24hz is what most movies/tv programming is filmed in, so multiples of 24 are easier for the monitor to display properly. 120hz is kind of the "holy grail" of overclocking (currently), as it is a multiple of 24 AND a multiple of 60 (60hz being common as well).


----------



## akaTRAP

no one can say anything in regards to the longevity of the Korean monitors?


----------



## Peen

Anyone hitting more then 123hz? Mine would do about 120 when I got it, but seems to be doing well at 123hz right now. I tried going to thicker gold plated DVI connector and it actually does worse then cable that comes with it.


----------



## barabom

Got my new PCB board from FedEx today, went home and changed the board myself and voila, the screen works perfectly!
No dead pixels, haven't noticed any BLB and i can clock it to 110Hz. It did take some extra time and work to get it working since my board was broken but im still pleased!


----------



## RomeSC

Just received my QNIX 2710 Evolution II SE from accessorieswhole on ebay. Less than a week from ordering it I received it in NY. I cant find any dead/stuck pixels. the stand is wobbly but stable enough that it doesnt shake when typing, only if I bump the desk at all. There is no more BLB than on my ASUS TN panel from 5 years ago.

My problem is that I can't OC it to 96hz. I knew 120hz would be lucky, but I fully expected easily to hit 96hz. The best it does without the green lines is 90hz. Pretty bummed about that, as it means watching movies I have to drop it to 72hz which is annoying. 96 should be a given on a monitor advertised to hit 120hz...


----------



## BulletSponge

Well after 6+ months of second guessing myself I finally pulled the trigger on a QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll through Amazon (MNW Global). Fingers and toes all crossed for a good panel. I really hope that 280X crossfire can drive it well.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> Awesome! I had a great experience from Accessorieswhole, as well. 96hz is a good overclock. People usually suggest a 96hz overclock (if you cannot hit 120hz), because it is a multiple of 24. 24hz is what most movies/tv programming is filmed in, so multiples of 24 are easier for the monitor to display properly. 120hz is kind of the "holy grail" of overclocking (currently), as it is a multiple of 24 AND a multiple of 60 (60hz being common as well).


Thanks for the info +1

But man, I just found out that something happened to the ATI drivers when I patched it for the OC. I can't connect my stereo via HDMI... when I do my PC doesn't even boot. It just hangs up and stays loading with the wallpaper background... but it never actually boots to desktop. I'm really bummed about this...

I plan to uninstall the patch just to narrow down the problem. I'm not sure if it's the monitor itself or the ATI patch since I didn't try connecting it to the stereo prior to overclocking it. I was connected to an LED TV before, BTW.

I go from the GPU's HDMI to the AVR, and then from the AVR to the TV via HDMI. But now instead of going out from the receiver to the TV, I have the QNix connected to the GPU as well (via D-DVI)

Any thoughts?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biermacht*
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys. I finally just got the monitor back. Shop owner was very vague on what was wrong just reiterated that the board was bad. Took it apart myself and visually the caps look good. Checked them with with an ohmmeter and they seem ok. Wondering if it's worth it to replace them anyways? Anything else I should be looking at or looking for on the board? Thanks.


How would you check if caps are fine using an Ohmmeter? Capacitors are reactive elements, not resistive elements.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akaTRAP*
> 
> I would like to hear from those who have had their monitors for a few months or longer. Preferably longer. I want to know if the Korean models actually last a good while or should I just spend double the price for a longer-lasting 1440p monitor.


Had mine for 10 months now, no issues. Many have had theirs for more than 1 year, no issues as well. Others have had their Catleap 2B monitors for 1.5 - 2 years now, seemingly no issues as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Well, I think its fair to say at this point that Accessroeswhole is the go-to seller. I just got mine today and I'm stoked. I got the normal "SE" version and it came with zero dead/stuck pixels. And I'm Overclocked at 100 Hz. It does have some light bleed but it's not much more than your run-of-the-mill TN panels.
> 
> What's the average overclock? If I go above 100 Hz , I start getting those green lines. Is that the way to know that you've hit the limit? What other signs should I look for? And should I run it a bit lower than 100 like at 96Hz? I don't want to break anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


If 100Hz is the absolute max that you can get stable, then yes, running a bit lower is a good idea just to be on the safe side. You don't have to stick to 96Hz if you won't use 96Hz 24/7 and watch movies at that refresh rate. If you are to watch movies, then the refresh rate should be a multiple of 23.976Hz and not 24Hz --> 91.908Hz. My suggestion: use 72 (71.924) Hz for movies, it's a lower overclock with reduced / eliminated side effects of overclocking to high refresh rates (gamma shift, image retention, uniformity). If you want a 72Hz profile, let me know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindadapanda*
> 
> has anyone noticed ghosting like on plasmas?
> 
> I was in windows today and I was restarting my computer and I noticed that during the shutdown phase the blue screen that normally covers it had ghosting images of applications that were open. I'm not near the monitor so I can't really take a picture right now, but I was wondering if anyone had this issue?


Yes, everyone gets image retention at higher refresh rates. Those who don't see it either don't see it or their usage patterns entail not looking at web browsers, documents, or UI elements for somewhat extended periods of time (anything longer than 15 minutes could cause image retention). Image retention goes away as the pixels change / when you set the refresh rate back to 60Hz (faster).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeSC*
> 
> Just received my QNIX 2710 Evolution II SE from accessorieswhole on ebay. Less than a week from ordering it I received it in NY. I cant find any dead/stuck pixels. the stand is wobbly but stable enough that it doesnt shake when typing, only if I bump the desk at all. There is no more BLB than on my ASUS TN panel from 5 years ago.
> 
> My problem is that I can't OC it to 96hz. I knew 120hz would be lucky, but I fully expected easily to hit 96hz. The best it does without the green lines is 90hz. Pretty bummed about that, as it means watching movies I have to drop it to 72hz which is annoying. 96 should be a given on a monitor advertised to hit 120hz...


Why did you get the SE version? It's generally known to have more issues, but it's good that you got a good unit. Did you tighten your timings to hit 90Hz? If not, have you tried that to get further? Did you patch your drivers?


----------



## RomeSC

I got the SE version before I knew there was a difference. It was slightly cheaper. I didn't not change the timings to get 90hz as I don't know how, but I found that 90hz isn't actually stable. Get swirling purple lines on light backgrounds. 85hz works fine. Yes drivers are patched.


----------



## mindadapanda

@yasamoka Thank you for the detailed explanation that explains a lot.

on a side note, I have decided to stick with 60hz. I don't know the side effects of overclocking and other than the gaming difference I can't really see any gains from it. I was just happy with the no dead pixels and no back light bleed. Plus I am running OS X most of the time and I don't think you can overclock in that environment. I guess I lucked out with the SE edition.

@RomeSC

I got the same one (SE), what video card? I patched my HD6850 and got to 110hz just fine. 120hz produced the green tearing.


----------



## RomeSC

I have two r9 28o's


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeSC*
> 
> I got the SE version before I knew there was a difference. It was slightly cheaper. I didn't not change the timings to get 90hz as I don't know how, but I found that 90hz isn't actually stable. Get swirling purple lines on light backgrounds. 85hz works fine. Yes drivers are patched.


You may want to try a different dual link DVI cable. It's also been said in this thread that the shorter the cable the better.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeSC*
> 
> I have two r9 28o's


Make sure you're using two CrossFire bridges for overclocks higher than 85Hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindadapanda*
> 
> Plus I am running OS X most of the time and I don't think you can overclock in that environment. I guess I lucked out with the SE edition.


I believe you can use Custom Resolutions on Mac OS X with a 3rd-party utility as well.


----------



## RomeSC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Make sure you're using two CrossFire bridges for overclocks higher than 85Hz.
> .


Even with Xfire disabled, 85hz is the max before monitor artifact occurs. Thanks for the suggestion though, it was the first thing I thought of (as the ASUS 144hz requires 2 bridges)


----------



## akaTRAP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Had mine for 10 months now, no issues. Many have had theirs for more than 1 year, no issues as well. Others have had their Catleap 2B monitors for 1.5 - 2 years now, seemingly no issues as well.


Thanks for the info. If anyone else can comment on the longevity of their monitors, please do so. Spending $300 on a product with no domestic warranty isn't exactly an easy pill to swallow.


----------



## scatlm

I was surprised at the build quality of the Qnix, frankly. It's way better than the Samsung that I have. NOW THAT THING's flimsy....LOL

I guess I have been conditioned to accept less...


----------



## BulletSponge

Crap, MNW Global says they are shipping via UPS. I must pray to the gods of safe package handling for this one.


----------



## pchampn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akaTRAP*
> 
> Thanks for the info. If anyone else can comment on the longevity of their monitors, please do so. Spending $300 on a product with no domestic warranty isn't exactly an easy pill to swallow.


Get a Square Trade warranty with it through eBay. I got it for mine and paid $42 + $279 for the monitor. Square Trade is US company, so you will be fine, in case you have to return it.


----------



## rjeftw

I scooped a XSTAR from Dreamseller back in March... Thinking about grabbing 2 more for a full surround setup... whats the deal with these multi ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331180242313?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D331180242313%26_rdc%3D1


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akaTRAP*
> 
> I would like to hear from those who have had their monitors for a few months or longer. Preferably longer. I want to know if the Korean models actually last a good while or should I just spend double the price for a longer-lasting 1440p monitor.


I have had mine for 11 months. No problems so far.


----------



## scatlm

Wow. I just got off my first gaming session with this monitor... friggin AWESOME. I thought I was going to take a bigger performance hit upgrading from 1080p/60Hz to 1440p/96Hz, but I still get smooth gameplay on high settings with some stuff set to ultra. And I'm only running a Sapphire 7950, 8GB RAM, and an overclocked Phenom-II.

The game looks stunning... and even going from 60 to 96HZ is noticeable and I dont even get 90 FPS on BF4. I get about 50 and it dips down to the 40's

....I'm very happy with my purchase. I highly recommend this monitor to anyone still on the fence.

Edit: Hey, how many of you have done the light-bleed tape mod fix on the Qnix?


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Wow. I just got off my first gaming session with this monitor... friggin AWESOME. I thought I was going to take a bigger performance hit upgrading from 1080p/60Hz to 1440p/96Hz, but I still get smooth gameplay on high settings with some stuff set to ultra. And I'm only running a Sapphire 7950, 8GB RAM, and an overclocked Phenom-II.
> 
> The game looks stunning... and even going from 60 to 96HZ is noticeable and I dont even get 90 FPS on BF4. I get about 50 and it dips down to the 40's
> 
> ....I'm very happy with my purchase. I highly recommend this monitor to anyone still on the fence.
> 
> Edit: Hey, how many of you have done the light-bleed tape mod fix on the Qnix?


I can't specifically say how many users have done it but i would guess well over 25-50 people. I have done the mod 7 times now for my self and customers of mine that i recommended the screen to. The tape mod by itself only takes 15-30 minutes to do. When taking apart the screen don't worry about breaking a tab or two, scratching the internal plastic will never be seen and the only really careful part is disconnecting the internal cable at the bottom of the casing.

Recently i have been convincing people to leave the case off though, the Qnix is so much nicer debezeled and it removes the possibility of pressure based light bleed rather than "rigging" it.


----------



## scatlm

Great, thank you. +1

It doesn't seem very hard. I'll definetly look into the mod during the W/E.

Hey, should I follow the "How to install Color Calibration Profiles" explained here on this thread and install Color Sustainer by Yasamoka?

Is that the best software for the Qnix? Any tips on calibrating?

TY


----------



## Rankre

Anyway to check for backlight bleed without the PC? I'm still waiting on a few parts to get in so I can hook up the monitor.


----------



## akaTRAP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchampn*
> 
> Get a Square Trade warranty with it through eBay. I got it for mine and paid $42 + $279 for the monitor. Square Trade is US company, so you will be fine, in case you have to return it.


Yea that sounds like a better option. Hopefully an R9 290 can handle 1440p.


----------



## barabom

When i turn my monitor up to 120hz i get some small green lines, is there any danger to still run it with 120hz?
I want to run it with 120Hz when in playing games, the small green lines wont bother me.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barabom*
> 
> When i turn my monitor up to 120hz i get some small green lines, is there any danger to still run it with 120hz?
> I want to run it with 120Hz when in playing games, the small green lines wont bother me.


Green lines = instability. Instability = don't run your monitor in an unstable fashion.

If you really want 120Hz to be stable, then try other cables, a shorter cable, a thicker cable (not as important), etc... Also tighten your current cable if you haven't already.

If you're just barely stable at 120Hz with a cable replacement, then it might just be a better idea to run slightly lower, at 110Hz perhaps. I wouldn't want to run my monitor on the edge of stability. Particularly if you're considering keeping it at 120Hz 24/7 (which I wouldn't do for several reasons you will find mentioned by me and others in this thread).


----------



## dwaynedibley

Hi All,
Just found this site and first post so be gentle.
Long story short, had my Qnix for 11 days before it failed.
Seller is being an @rse and has been running me around the houses for the last three weeks.
Anyway, without going into detail, this has happened - 




Can anyone confirm my thinking that this is a faulty display PCB? I'm really tempted to source one myself if so, then just hammer the seller with negative feedback.
Has anyone also tried to claim under warranty? The seller gave me an e-mail address from which I got no reply. Not sure whether posting it here breaks any rules, so I won't for the time being.

Thanks!


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Hi All,
> Just found this site and first post so be gentle.
> Long story short, had my Qnix for 11 days before it failed.
> Seller is being an @rse and has been running me around the houses for the last three weeks.
> Anyway, without going into detail, this has happened -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm my thinking that this is a faulty display PCB? I'm really tempted to source one myself if so, then just hammer the seller with negative feedback.
> Has anyone also tried to claim under warranty? The seller gave me an e-mail address from which I got no reply. Not sure whether posting it here breaks any rules, so I won't for the time being.
> 
> Thanks!


I would try to plug it on a different PC with a video card support of 1440p resolution (DVI-D). I'm guessing a faulty video card or messed up timings in windows and the video can't revert back to 60Hz.


----------



## dwaynedibley

have plugged video card into different monitor which works fine.
Then plugged Qnix into another PC with same, broken result. :-(


----------



## Loktar Ogar

Better ask for a new PCB board shipped out to you then.







I'm sure it can be done once you provide them with an actual trouble shooting video. Hope the seller replies as soon as possible.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Thanks 
I've suggested this to the seller on more than one occasion and they keep ignoring my request.
Seller keeps pushing for me to return the monitor. They want me to pick-up the return shipping cost and then refund it to me once they have received and 'checked' the monitor. At this point I have zero trust in the seller. :-(
We've pretty much come to a stalemate to be honest, I've suggested numerous alternatives such as shipping a PCB as mentioned above and replacing instead of refunding.
I really want to keep the monitor though as I have zero dead pixels and minimal back-light bleed. I'd also lose a substantial amount of import duty if I return the item.
I'm at a loss now, if its a PCB how do I go about pushing this to be replaced? Is there a way to contact the manufacturer direct as I have a 1 year warranty? Or should I just try an ultimatum with the seller.
I'm gutted :-(


----------



## Loktar Ogar

I'm sure someone here will help you out with your problem. Just keep communicating with the seller so they can't ignore you.


----------



## Enilder

I have non-multi, overclockable X-Star DP2710LED. I am thinking of getting a multi version of this monitor. According to the seller, it's also overclockable up to 120Hz. Did something change with the latest model in terms of the overclockability and panel?

Also, non-multi is advertised as Samsung PLS and multi is advertised as AH-VA. Who supplies AH-VA panel? Only thing that I know is that they are different but not much info about input lag, etc.


----------



## mindadapanda

@Enilder
No matter who says what, it has been confirmed the multi true10 do not over clock, they drop frames.
@dwaynedibley
If you don't mind sharing which seller? From my scanning through threads and forums it seems that almost all of them are willing to just send a PCB instead of dealing with the back and forth shipping. Also it does indeed appear your pcb is fried, have you tried opening it up and checking for dead or fried capacitors?


----------



## dwaynedibley

Thanks both for helping. Massively grateful. ta-korea.global
Yep. Took the plunge last night. Visually board looks OK, although the soldering isn't the best. Going to get a meter on it this weekend to check the caps.
I'm going to push hard for a replacement now then. It worries me that the seller wants to only refund me after an inspection and not do anything else.
Any advise on how to push this? They tried to get me to contact the manufacturer direct on [email protected] but I got no reply after multiple attempts.


----------



## winterkid09

Does anybody have a sRGB color profile I can use at 120hz for this monitor? I've been looking and in the last few months the best I can find is the NCX profiles here: http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117

I've tried all of the profiles in the OP, however the 60hz and 96hz sRGB profiles in the review I linked are perfect for me, it seems he was only able to make a 120hz Profile with this .REC standard. For me though, when I use the REC profile, it doesn't fully correct the gamma shift from overclocking. In the meantime I've been using 60/96hz when I want better color accuracy and vibrancy and using 120hz when necessary, but it's sub-optimal and I just don't see new profile coming out.

Anybody know where I can find such a thing?


----------



## n00bftw

does any1 know how to get the refresh rate to auto downlclock from 120hz in games to 96hz on windows desktop without doing it manually, fed up having to manually change it all the time


----------



## scatlm

Hey, is anyone else having issues with the power adapter that comes with the Qnix? Mine is really finicky. If I just as much as grace it, it loses power. I've narrowed it down to ****ty contacts in the power supply. If I hold the power cord against the power supply really hard it gets power again. Where can I get a better power supply for this monitor? Do you guys recommend one in particular?

TY


----------



## biermacht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Hi All,
> Just found this site and first post so be gentle.
> Long story short, had my Qnix for 11 days before it failed.
> Seller is being an @rse and has been running me around the houses for the last three weeks.
> Anyway, without going into detail, this has happened -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm my thinking that this is a faulty display PCB? I'm really tempted to source one myself if so, then just hammer the seller with negative feedback.
> Has anyone also tried to claim under warranty? The seller gave me an e-mail address from which I got no reply. Not sure whether posting it here breaks any rules, so I won't for the time being.
> 
> Thanks!


This is exactly the same problem as I'm having with my X-star. Told by local mom and pop shop that the board was bad. My power supply appears good, putting out 12.2V. Visually everything on the board looks good. Going to replace the 2 electrolytic capacitors, probably a waste of time, but only a couple of bucks. If this doesn't fix, then I was told to contact storewithstory on ebay for purchasing a replacement board.

Mine was a few days past the warranty and my seller (dreamseller) still agreed to send me a replacement, but would have to pay shipping both ways. I turned him down cause I figured i could have it repaired locally a lot cheaper.

I'd push hard with your seller for a replacement board free of charge. At most you should have to ship the old board to the seller for an exchange. Escalate a claim with ebay/paypal if he doesn't respond.


----------



## mindadapanda

@scatlm
Mine is at the foot my of my desktop so I never really touch it. I will test it for you to see where it goes, but from my initial inspection it was a bit flimsy but nothing too serious. If the contact is weak I suggest using two rubber bands and ghetto rigging it that way. Or the other way is to find the DC or AC rating of it, say 12 V 1 A DC (DC and AC make a huge difference, I learned this the hard way) and just go to best buy and buy a replacement. Also find out the header size of the plug that goes into the monitor


----------



## ac130

I've got a Qnix + Linux + Nvidia proprietary driver problem. I've been searching this thread and elsewhere on the net to no avail. I apologize if it turns out this has already been addressed and my search-fu is simply too weak.

Although a lot of people have posted their xorg.conf here and elsewhere on the net, they aren't working for me when I try to use KDE + the closed source Nvidia driver. Long story short, I could really use either EDID data saved as a file, or a way to get valid modelines out of Windows 7 that I could then put into Linux's xorg.conf

Details:

Under Linux, the monitor's EDID information is getting rejected because it's failing some kind of checksum. I found that out by going through my xorg.log. Although there is an "IgnoreEDIDChecksum" xorg.conf option that the closed source Nvidia driver supports, it's still not quite doing the trick for me. However, I can specify EDID information directly in the xorg.conf file using the "EDID" option, or EDID information stored in a separate file via the "CustomEDID" xorg.conf option.

It's a dual-boot system, and under Windows 7 everything works great. If there was some way I could get information out of Windows 7 that I could then use to configure the Linux partition's xorg.conf with, that would be great. I *think* all I would need is modelines.

In Linux, I can get fluxbox to work fine, but KDE isn't happy. I think that KDE is using OpenGL acceleration whereas fluxbox is not, and that's the key difference. I've tried a lot of different xorg.conf setups, but each one either causes the monitor to just display a test pattern of the screen flipping through various colors, or it shows the KDE desktop but with some pretty weird artifacts like faint ghosts of some parts of the screen showing up in other parts of the screen.

Also, to anyone else trying to get this to work: it turns out that the closed source Nvidia driver will NOT honor the modelines from /etc/X11/xorg.conf when it enters full-screen OpenGL mode. To fix this, you need to configure an option in xorg.conf called "IncludeImplicitMetaModes". This information was buried in the /usr/share/doc/NVIDIA_GLX-1.0/README.txt, and the behavior was stumping me for a very, very long time.

So, yeah. I could really use either a way to get modeline information for my Qnix monitor out of Windows 7, or EDID information saved as a file. Can anyone help?


----------



## dwaynedibley

Thanks - I'll push hard now to replace the board. I don't think the sellers English is brilliant so it feels like certain things are getting lost in translation.
I'll site that many other Korean sellers seem fine with shipping a replacement board, so why can't my seller do the same. I'm getting the vibe from this forum that the display PCB is definitely at fault, so thanks for the advice.
It still baffles me though why the seller isn't jumping on the PCB replacement route when they have agreed to refund the purchase and shipping. That's what makes me suspicious that they'll try something to get out of both if I send the monitor back.


----------



## murdoc158

I got my TRUE10 Multi yesterday. The base barely secures to the bottom of the stand but I plan on buying a triple monitor stand anyway. Picture is fantastic didn't see any defective pixels. Light bleed is tolerable. 360 looks fantastic on HDMI. Moving to 1440p on PC I noticed about 10FPS hit running Watch Dogs on Ultra.


----------



## AdamHD

Just (re)set everything up on my desk. I really am so impressed with this Qnix monitor! Anyone who is hesitant on buying one, don't be. I had been thinking about buying one since they were released last year. I should have pulled the trigger WAY earlier. I actually kept one of my Dell U2312HM monitor's for any 1920x1080 resolution needs. Loving the dual monitor set up. Best of both worlds!


----------



## aaaflyer

Hi guys, need your advice here. If i am to update my amd drivers, what is the proper procedure?

Also do i need to patch it again like the firdt time i did? TIA!


----------



## DiceAir

So I had my monitor on 110hz and was playing bf4 and suddenly my whole pc frezzes up on me. So then I decided just reboot and everything should be fine. then I played bf4 again and then after a while red screen of death. Just a plain red screen. Now I'm thinking maybe my monitor can't go higher than 96hz. Sometimes I also do get the occasional freeze even on 96hz in BF4 but hat could be the game.

I'm running 2x r9 280x so do you think it could be something else. So please advice me if my monitor just simply can't handle 110hz or not? Now i can go and test 60hz but I posted before that my monitor doesn't feel smooth in 60hz.

This is an old video of my issue and just today I had the same issue. Since then I had build myself a new system with the same graphics cards. the only thing is i had both of them RMA to supplier so brand new cards.

The only way I could fix it was by unplugging the DVI cable and plug it back in


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Hey, is anyone else having issues with the power adapter that comes with the Qnix? Mine is really finicky. If I just as much as grace it, it loses power. I've narrowed it down to ****ty contacts in the power supply. If I hold the power cord against the power supply really hard it gets power again. Where can I get a better power supply for this monitor? Do you guys recommend one in particular?
> 
> TY


Which end are you having trouble with? the A/C side or DC side?


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mindadapanda*
> 
> @scatlm
> Mine is at the foot my of my desktop so I never really touch it. I will test it for you to see where it goes, but from my initial inspection it was a bit flimsy but nothing too serious. If the contact is weak I suggest using two rubber bands and ghetto rigging it that way. Or the other way is to find the DC or AC rating of it, say 12 V 1 A DC (DC and AC make a huge difference, I learned this the hard way) and just go to best buy and buy a replacement. Also find out the header size of the plug that goes into the monitor


Thanks. Yesterday it went for good. I had to manually hold the AC power cord against the adapter REALLY hard to gain contact. Before I'd just push it in and out 'till it gained contact again, but that wasn't working anymore, so I ended up using a very thin rope from some shorts and and ghetto rigged it. But otherwise, I'd have no power coming into the Qnix. Definitely something to keep an eye out for with these "SE" models. They seem to have several QC issues. Thankfully mine came with zero dead pixel,s but the light bleed is pretty significant. That will be my next "ghetto mod" hehe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giltyler*
> 
> Which end are you having trouble with? the A/C side or DC side?


I was having trouble with the AC end of the adapter. Initially I thought it was the stock power cord with that cheap little wall adapter they send you, but then I switched it with a few other power cords and the problem persisted. It's the actual contacts in the adapter that are ****ty, however. But ever since I ghetto rigged, I haven't had the problem. Granted, that I had to tie it really hard... just something to look out for with these "SE" models, I guess.

Thanks guys +1 to you both


----------



## akbisw

Hey I oc'd my monitor now flash stutters heavily on 720p+ resolutions. Its pretty terrible on multiple sites. Tried software and hardware mode in flash. tried both chrome and firefox. Any suggestion would be great


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaaflyer*
> 
> Hi guys, need your advice here. If i am to update my amd drivers, what is the proper procedure?
> 
> Also do i need to patch it again like the firdt time i did? TIA!


Download Driver Sweeper to delete your current drivers before installing the new ones.

And if you plan to OC the monitor's refresh rate, then yes. You need to patch the ATI drivers.


----------



## scatlm

Wow. I think I got really lucky. I just watched some of the Qnix 27810 "Evolution II" reviews on Youtube... and some people have some SERIOUS back-light bleed and even dead pixels.... I guess it's a crap-shoot between the (non perfect pixel) SE and the Evo-II's.

But I'm feeling a lot better about my minor light bleed right now...lol


----------



## dwaynedibley

OK - ultimatum sent!
Quote:


> Hi,
> Over the weekend I have confirmed that the following part is faulty -
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-X-star-PCB-Replacement-p/qnipcb1.htm
> I have talked to other QNIX users who have had this issue as it is a fairly common one. All other sellers have shipped them a replacement PCB.
> I am happy with the monitor, only this part is faulty. I have tested all other parts including the Power Supply and all are fine.
> Please ship this PCB to me, I will fit (I am a qualified IT professional) and I will give you positive feedback.
> I will also consider the matter closed.
> The monitor has a warranty, so I ask that you honour it by doing the above.
> Shipping the monitor back for a refund is undesirable to me as I will lose £50 in import charges, you will also lose £80 in return shipping charges which I had quoted as a return cost over the weekend. If you push me to return the monitor I will open a paypal dispute and reclaim my money that way, give you negative feedback and highlight my experience on many international IT enthusiast sites.
> Sending me the replacement PCB will be a gesture of goodwill on your part considering the amount of time I have wasted trying to resolve my problem. And, as mentioned will allow me give you positive feedback.
> I hope we can come to a solution which we are both happy with.
> Thanks in advance.


Hopefully I get a response tomorrow and this goes to plan.
I'm not massively hopeful though.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akaTRAP*
> 
> Thanks for the info. If anyone else can comment on the longevity of their monitors, please do so. Spending $300 on a product with no domestic warranty isn't exactly an easy pill to swallow.


Check the OP also (registered users) ... through my extensive reading of this thread, I'd guess an RMA type failure rate is less than 3% for models 6mos or older









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjeftw*
> 
> I scooped a XSTAR from Dreamseller back in March... Thinking about grabbing 2 more for a full surround setup... whats the deal with these multi ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331180242313?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D331180242313%26_rdc%3D1


Bad idea for surround ... they are 2 totally different panels PLS (Samsung) vs AH-VA (???)








The Multi True10 won't overclock properly and has noticeable input lag compared to the PLS panel








See the OP under FAQ or read my comments and proof Links *HERE*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Wow. I just got off my first gaming session with this monitor... friggin AWESOME. I thought I was going to take a bigger performance hit upgrading from 1080p/60Hz to 1440p/96Hz, but I still get smooth gameplay on high settings with some stuff set to ultra. And I'm only running a Sapphire 7950, 8GB RAM, and an overclocked Phenom-II.
> 
> The game looks stunning... and even going from 60 to 96HZ is noticeable and I dont even get 90 FPS on BF4. I get about 50 and it dips down to the 40's
> 
> ....I'm very happy with my purchase. I highly recommend this monitor to anyone still on the fence.
> 
> Edit: Hey, how many of you have done the light-bleed tape mod fix on the Qnix?


Honestly you should check out Lawson's frame straightening guide, it gets more directly to the "Root Cause" of the problem ... he tried the tape fix 1st, so so results, but then he discovered the real root of the problem ... see Lawson's thread *HERE* or his post *HERE*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> Anyway to check for backlight bleed without the PC? I'm still waiting on a few parts to get in so I can hook up the monitor.


No way ... try a friends computer, all you need is to boot to the desktop then set a black background.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Hi All,
> Just found this site and first post so be gentle.
> Long story short, had my Qnix for 11 days before it failed.
> Seller is being an @rse and has been running me around the houses for the last three weeks.
> Anyway, without going into detail, this has happened -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm my thinking that this is a faulty display PCB? I'm really tempted to source one myself if so, then just hammer the seller with negative feedback.
> Has anyone also tried to claim under warranty? The seller gave me an e-mail address from which I got no reply. Not sure whether posting it here breaks any rules, so I won't for the time being.
> 
> Thanks!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> OK - ultimatum sent!
> Hopefully I get a response tomorrow and this goes to plan.
> I'm not massively hopeful though.
Click to expand...

I concur it's most likely your PCB. Nicely presented/argued letter to the seller








If you end up buying a PCB I'd also suggest contacting Bruce (good English) "storewithstory" and last I checked he shipped out a board for $65!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enilder*
> 
> I have non-multi, overclockable X-Star DP2710LED. I am thinking of getting a multi version of this monitor. According to the seller, it's also overclockable up to 120Hz. Did something change with the latest model in terms of the overclockability and panel?
> 
> Also, non-multi is advertised as Samsung PLS and multi is advertised as AH-VA. Who supplies AH-VA panel? Only thing that I know is that they are different but not much info about input lag, etc.


No they won't OC properly and have noticeably more input lag ... read the OP under FAQ or see my comments *HERE*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n00bftw*
> 
> does any1 know how to get the refresh rate to auto downlclock from 120hz in games to 96hz on windows desktop without doing it manually, fed up having to manually change it all the time


Nope ... many of us have searched and tried. Also is a reason, besides many others (pixel clock etc) that we run 110Hz 24/7 (desktop) then just manually set 120Hz in game when available









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> Just (re)set everything up on my desk. I really am so impressed with this Qnix monitor! Anyone who is hesitant on buying one, don't be. I had been thinking about buying one since they were released last year. I should have pulled the trigger WAY earlier. I actually kept one of my Dell U2312HM monitor's for any 1920x1080 resolution needs. Loving the dual monitor set up. Best of both worlds!


NICE! And even at a distance you can clearly see why most of us could never consider 1080p again ... the clarity and crispness looks horrid on the 1080p compared to your QNIX









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Thanks. Yesterday it went for good. I had to manually hold the AC power cord against the adapter REALLY hard to gain contact. Before I'd just push it in and out 'till it gained contact again, but that wasn't working anymore, so I ended up using a very thin rope from some shorts and and ghetto rigged it. But otherwise, I'd have no power coming into the Qnix. Definitely something to keep an eye out for with these "SE" models. They seem to have several QC issues. Thankfully mine came with zero dead pixel,s but the light bleed is pretty significant. That will be my next "ghetto mod" hehe
> I was having trouble with the AC end of the adapter. Initially I thought it was the stock power cord with that cheap little wall adapter they send you, but then I switched it with a few other power cords and the problem persisted. It's the actual contacts in the adapter that are ****ty, however. But ever since I ghetto rigged, I haven't had the problem. Granted, that I had to tie it really hard... just something to look out for with these "SE" models, I guess.
> 
> Thanks guys +1 to you both


It may be time for a replacement? *HERE* is the most recommended popular/quality replacement, a few guys even bought these as preventative maintenance before their originals failed. Not me though


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> I concur it's most likely your PCB. Nicely presented/argued letter to the seller thumb.gif
> If you end up buying a PCB I'd also suggest contacting Bruce (good English) "storewithstory" and last I checked he shipped out a board for $65!


Thanks for the info - very good to know!
I would ship the monitor back as the seller has suggested, but I have a very bad feeling they will try every trick under the sun to not refund my shipping / the cost of the monitor or both. Hence why I may go down the route of just biting the bullet and fixing the item myself.
Cheers all!


----------



## scatlm

@Tomcat -- Great, thanks +1

Hey, I'm not sure if I'm loading the color profiles correctly through Color Sustainer.

Ok, when I open the program I see my GPU and monitor; I click on it and click detect. Then I select 2560x1440p and hit detect. Then I select 2560x1440p 96 Hz and hit detect again. Then I select "Associate", then "Color profile" I browse for the ICC file and then click on "associate profile." ..However, I don't see any changes at all in gamma , color, or anything. And when I click associate profile, both the file name in the box and the "Associate Profile" icon turns red. Am I missing something?

TY

Edit: NM, when I load it through Windows' Color Management it works. I can see the difference instantly.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> @Tomcat -- Great, thanks +1
> 
> Hey, I'm not sure if I'm loading the color profiles correctly through Color Sustainer.
> 
> Ok, when I open the program I see my GPU and monitor; I click on it and click detect. Then I select 2560x1440p and hit detect. Then I select 2560x1440p 96 Hz and hit detect again. Then I select "Associate", then "Color profile" I browse for the ICC file and then click on "associate profile." ..However, I don't see any changes at all in gamma , color, or anything. And when I click associate profile, both the file name in the box and the "Associate Profile" icon turns red. Am I missing something?
> 
> TY
> 
> Edit: NM, when I load it through Windows' Color Management it works. I can see the difference instantly.


Mmm. File --> Start...

Maybe I should remove Start and Stop. I'll think about it. I've seen people confused multiple times over that particular issue. Worst of all, it seems the README file was dropped from the package when it was uploaded to the server.

For profiles that turn the Associate button red, make sure you're using the workaround linked to in the OP. That is, until I get those profiles working (need to understand how they work first).

Also, change the directory of the profile as it seems it's somewhere Color Sustainer has no permission to access.


----------



## DuckieHo

So.... what's the best price from a reliable seller on a 27" currently?

I want it for gaming with a matte layer. Hoping to OC.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuckieHo*
> 
> So.... what's the best price from a reliable seller on a 27" currently?
> 
> I want it for gaming with a matte layer. Hoping to OC.


I actually got mine from Amazon.

Had 2 bad experiences of buying Qnix from ebay, so went on Amazon and got a pixel perfect model for £250.

Turned up, overclocked to 120hz, no dead pixels, no backlight bleed









Of course this is just my experience - most people get on just fine with the usual ebay sellers.


----------



## DuckieHo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> I actually got mine from Amazon.
> 
> Had 2 bad experiences of buying Qnix from ebay, so went on Amazon and got a pixel perfect model for £250.
> 
> Turned up, overclocked to 120hz, no dead pixels, no backlight bleed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course this is just my experience - most people get on just fine with the usual ebay sellers.


Link?


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuckieHo*
> 
> So.... what's the best price from a reliable seller on a 27" currently?
> 
> I want it for gaming with a matte layer. Hoping to OC.


This was the one:

www.amazon.com/dp/B00CAKD6LI/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

Actually going for $338 at the moment, which is about £198! Cheaper than when I got it...

Of course, no guarantee can be given to overclockability...


----------



## rb3412

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuckieHo*
> 
> So.... what's the best price from a reliable seller on a 27" currently?
> 
> I want it for gaming with a matte layer. Hoping to OC.


I recently ordered a qnix qx2710 matte evolution 2 from green sum for 279 us dollars. He's a reputable seller considering his ratings on eBay. I will receive mine today so hoping for the best. Literally 50 monitors have been purchased since I purchased mine and nobody has given a bad rating.


----------



## scatlm

I got an "SE" model from Accessorieswhole for $290. No dead pixels, overclocks to 96Hz, but I do have some back-llight bleed. It gets more and more annoying each day









Thankfully, it's not very noticeable during games which is my primary application for this monitor. But watching movies is unbearable... I have two significant flares on the bottom corners... they're not as bright as some other light-bleed cases that I've seen on Youtube reviews... but they're bad enough to distract me during a dark scene in a movie.

And I'm unsure if I should even try the tape mod fix. Most people say that it only helps a bit. I'm not even sure if it's worth the hassle of taking it apart...


----------



## criminal

I am looking at this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JTEV47Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1M9QA7JDX7OF6

Pull the trigger or no?


----------



## Peen

First Qnix I ordered was $279 and is doing 120hz no problem. Just ordered another since it was $279 again! It's from accessorieswhole, so jump on it if you need!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> @Tomcat -- Great, thanks +1
> 
> Hey, I'm not sure if I'm loading the color profiles correctly through Color Sustainer.
> 
> Ok, when I open the program I see my GPU and monitor; I click on it and click detect. Then I select 2560x1440p and hit detect. Then I select 2560x1440p 96 Hz and hit detect again. Then I select "Associate", then "Color profile" I browse for the ICC file and then click on "associate profile." ..However, I don't see any changes at all in gamma , color, or anything. And when I click associate profile, both the file name in the box and the "Associate Profile" icon turns red. Am I missing something?
> 
> TY
> 
> Edit: NM, when I load it through Windows' Color Management it works. I can see the difference instantly.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Mmm. File --> Start...
> 
> Maybe I should remove Start and Stop. I'll think about it. I've seen people confused multiple times over that particular issue. Worst of all, it seems the README file was dropped from the package when it was uploaded to the server.
> 
> For profiles that turn the Associate button red, make sure you're using the workaround linked to in the OP. That is, until I get those profiles working (need to understand how they work first).
> 
> Also, change the directory of the profile as it seems it's somewhere Color Sustainer has no permission to access.
Click to expand...

Yaz is the man ... he wrote the program








The work around link he talks about is *HERE* or my whole recom/addendum for CS in the OP is *HERE* with interesting links halfway down the post








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuckieHo*
> 
> So.... what's the best price from a reliable seller on a 27" currently?
> 
> I want it for gaming with a matte layer. Hoping to OC.


$279 - $289 ... see other user links below your post ... these are the best prices I've seen in over 6mos when the scare came out that these panels were not going to be available again and all the sellers were "Trying" to move to the True10








Well they seem to be readily back in stock with pretty good quality control


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> I got an "SE" model from Accessorieswhole for $290. No dead pixels, overclocks to 96Hz, but I do have some back-llight bleed. It gets more and more annoying each day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thankfully, it's not very noticeable during games which is my primary application for this monitor. But watching movies is unbearable... I have two significant flares on the bottom corners... they're not as bright as some other light-bleed cases that I've seen on Youtube reviews... but they're bad enough to distract me during a dark scene in a movie.
> 
> And I'm unsure if I should even try the tape mod fix. Most people say that it only helps a bit. I'm not even sure if it's worth the hassle of taking it apart...


My backlight bleed is/was pretty significant in my lower left corner of mine. I noticed that a lot of it went away when I lightly pressed on that corner of the screen. Just as an experiment, I wedged a small folded up piece of paper in between the bezel gap and the screen of the lower left hand side, and another on the bottom left hand side, and the bleed almost completely went away. So.... I cut down the pieces of paper (to where they would not be seen), and just shoved them in there all the way. Fixed the bleed good enough to where it does not bug me anymore. I'm not really recommending this for other people to do. I'm sure the tape method is a lot better. But, I just thought I'd share my experience with a "quick fix".


----------



## Piciato

Hi there guys,

After reading through the forums, it says that the QNIX True10 doesn't support 120hz? i bought it, and i able to overclock it to 120hz. This is the link that i bought.

http://list.qoo10.sg/item/LIMITED-10QTY-QNIX-QX2710-LED/410946606

This is the proof that i successfully overclock it to 120hz, i think.









*Sorry for the bad pic, using camera phone*







Am i doing it right? and btw, thats a custom stand, bought in singapore, which i live in. Hate the stock stand that it came with.


----------



## Loktar Ogar

If i'm not mistaken. I'm seeing frame skipping which means not okay for 120 Hz.


----------



## Piciato

how can i tell if its frame skipping?


----------



## mikeaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piciato*
> 
> how can i tell if its frame skipping?


If it's not frame skipping, all white / gray rectangles will be adjacent with no black rectangles in the middle. What you have there is the monitor skipping every other frame.


----------



## yasamoka

Frame skipping, the monitor overclocks to 120Hz but displays 60 frames. So we consider it *not overclockable*.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Frame skipping, the monitor overclocks to 120Hz but displays 60 frames. So we consider it *not overclockable*.


I totally missed your reply. I'll definitely look into the work around when I'm home. I really appreciate it.

TY


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> My backlight bleed is/was pretty significant in my lower left corner of mine. I noticed that a lot of it went away when I lightly pressed on that corner of the screen. Just as an experiment, I wedged a small folded up piece of paper in between the bezel gap and the screen of the lower left hand side, and another on the bottom left hand side, and the bleed almost completely went away. So.... I cut down the pieces of paper (to where they would not be seen), and just shoved them in there all the way. Fixed the bleed good enough to where it does not bug me anymore. I'm not really recommending this for other people to do. I'm sure the tape method is a lot better. But, I just thought I'd share my experience with a "quick fix".


I'll give that a go. I'm not sure why the light bleed is so noticeable while watching a Bluray, however, its barely noticeable in the desktop or during gaming. I have a pitch black wallpaper as background and I see ZERO light bleed.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> I totally missed your reply. I'll definitely look into the work around when I'm home. I really appreciate it.
> 
> TY


Sure, you're welcome.


----------



## caenlen

Just got my tempered glass x-star from DreamSeller, it has a dead pixel but its not really noticeable... I love tempered glass so much more than matte... clarity is amazing.

Colors seem better too, only overclocks to 110hz, but not a huge deal.


----------



## Peen

Ordered this stand...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=pe_385040_30332200_TE_item_image

Anyone use this? Looks nice, and decent price. So if no one has, I'll take pics of my setup.


----------



## Saturos

That's the stand I'm currently using right now. Took a little work to get it the way I wanted it but otherwise I love it.


----------



## Peen

Awesome thanks! I'm going to be using 2 Qnix 27" and 2 LG 23" in portrait mode on the side. Not sure how I'm going to hold up the one LG though...


----------



## Piciato

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Frame skipping, the monitor overclocks to 120Hz but displays 60 frames. So we consider it *not overclockable*.


Ahhh, now i get it! Manage to oc to 75hz, no frame skipping, camera exposure and iso all the down. Thx guys!!


----------



## Peen

Oh god help me, cancelled my order for triple stand, went for a stand I could run 3 Qnix 27" and another up top...

http://shop.easymountlcd.com/Deluxe-Hex-LCD-Monitor-Stand-Free-Standing-up-to-28-002-0023-002-0023.htm


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piciato*
> 
> Ahhh, now i get it! Manage to oc to 75hz, no frame skipping, camera exposure and iso all the down. Thx guys!!


Show us photos. This is pretty important if it overclocks to 75Hz since at ~72Hz it's a multiple of 24FPS, perfect for video. You need to show at least 5 boxes in sequence since 75 skipping --> 60Hz means that for every 5 frames sent to the display, 4 are shown and 1 is dropped, in a cycle. So for every 5 spaces, skipping would show every 5th box to be missing. If you have 5 boxes in sequence (captured once), that means there's either no skipping or it isn't skipping to 60Hz, but something higher (won't happen). So, at least one photo, or show us with a higher exposure time / lower shutter speed and it would be awesome.


----------



## BulletSponge

Please add me to the club. Just hooked up my QNIX 2710 I ordered for $338 through Amazon (MNW Global) and I am speechless. No stuck/dead pixels, NO backlight bleed and sitting at 85Hz until I can get a second Xfire bridge. To say I am impressed would be the understatement of the century.



Edit-Hmm, I seem to be having black screen issues in about 1/2 of the Youtube videos I have played so far. I am almost certain I have seen reports of this issue before but cannot find them now for the life of me. Anyone have a link they would be kind enough to share? Is it because my OC is not a multiple of 24?


----------



## rb3412

Just received my qnix wx2710 evo II from green-sum. Purchased it on wednesday evening for $ 279 US. Arrived today (Monday) to Toronto, Canada. Really impressed with the fast shipping. After performing the dead pixel test, I only found 1 stuck white pixel on the left part of the screen and really small backlight bleed in bottom right part of the screen (bit yellowish light) but it is only noticable if i really just put on the full black screen for the test. So far I am extremely impressed with the quality of the monitor I have received. For other canadian buyers, the customs/brokerage fees/taxes with DHL were $ 35.60 at delivery.

I have not tried overclocking the monitor yet so I am not sure how well it overclocks.

P.S. I am considering buying the ebay squaretrade for $30 US just incase there are problems in the future. The shipping alone to Korea just kills the point of repairing by the seller. Any thoughts?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rb3412*
> 
> 
> 
> Just received my qnix wx2710 evo II from green-sum. Purchased it on wednesday evening for $ 279 US. Arrived today (Monday) to Toronto, Canada. Really impressed with the fast shipping. After performing the dead pixel test, I only found 1 stuck white pixel on the left part of the screen and really small backlight bleed in bottom right part of the screen (bit yellowish light) but it is only noticable if i really just put on the full black screen for the test. So far I am extremely impressed with the quality of the monitor I have received. For other canadian buyers, the customs/brokerage fees/taxes with DHL were $ 35.60 at delivery.
> 
> I have not tried overclocking the monitor yet so I am not sure how well it overclocks.
> 
> P.S. I am considering buying the ebay squaretrade for $30 US just incase there are problems in the future. The shipping alone to Korea just kills the point of repairing by the seller. Any thoughts?


I purchased the square trade warranty for piece of mind.


----------



## caenlen

I find my X-Star has better color quality than my QNIX, but I think that is due to the glass panel on the X-Star the QNIX is matte.

Hmm. Interesting.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> I find my X-Star has better color quality than my QNIX, but I think that is due to the glass panel on the X-Star the QNIX is matte.
> 
> Hmm. Interesting.


Shut up. You're making me want to try a tempered glass'd










...but congrats. Are you running both as a multiple monitor setup?


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Shut up. You're making me want to try a tempered glass'd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...but congrats. Are you running both as a multiple monitor setup?


Took the second one to work, before I was using a government laptop 14" screen with like the need for 4 windows to be open at all times, so I said screw it, government is too cheap but I need to work faster, so I just took my QNIX to work.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> Took the second one to work, before I was using a government laptop 14" screen with like the need for 4 windows to be open at all times, so I said screw it, government is too cheap but I need to work faster, so I just took my QNIX to work.


Hey, how sharp is the tempered glass X-star exactly. Would you say it rivals an Apple display? And did yours come with any light bleed? Is the light bleed more noticeable or less noticeable with a tempered glass?


----------



## libertysky

in the middle of a game, my monitor turned white and stayed that way.

i reset my computer thinking someone hacked and crashed the game (those exist when they don't want a loss on their rec) but it remained blank with the blinking blue LED

after trying power cycling, different DVI port, waiting for it to cool down, it finally came back up with a new graphics adapter.

in windows, the OC is gone.

is this OC setting related? if so, is there a way to auto-revert it to default in the event of errors/crash? it might be nvidia related actually. sometimes it randomly has to auto-recover in the middle of games. i'm still on the old GTX 460.

anyone experience this?

now i'm afraid to go 120hz. it was working for almost a yr that way.


----------



## AdamHD

I noticed something weird this morning... I have been able to overclock my monitor to 96hz and 120hz with no problems, from day one. When I go into Nvidia control panel, both 96hz and 120hz options are there, I select them, apply, my screen refreshes, and the new refresh rate is applied. I know it is applying, as I can SEE the mouse cursor act differently, etc.... but when I go to "test" it on www.testufo.com, it says 60hz/60fps... no matter what refresh rate my monitor is "supposed' to be running.

When I was very first testing out the overclock on my monitor (last week), the same exact tests were saying 96hz/96fps and 120hz/120fps accordingly. This all came about because I have a second monitor (1080p) hooked up, and was asked by another member if the overclock was working while having dual monitors. After testing, I don't know what to believe. My PC/games/eyes are telling me the overclock is working. The website for testing refresh rate is telling me it isn't. Ideas???

Just for reference, I have now tried with my second monitor hooked up, and with it completely disconnected. No change at all. Still says I am running at 60hz/60fps on www.testufo.com.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> I noticed something weird this morning... I have been able to overclock my monitor to 96hz and 120hz with no problems, from day one. When I go into Nvidia control panel, both 96hz and 120hz options are there, I select them, apply, my screen refreshes, and the new refresh rate is applied. I know it is applying, as I can SEE the mouse cursor act differently, etc.... but when I go to "test" it on www.testufo.com, it says 60hz/60fps... no matter what refresh rate my monitor is "supposed' to be running.
> 
> When I was very first testing out the overclock on my monitor (last week), the same exact tests were saying 96hz/96fps and 120hz/120fps accordingly. This all came about because I have a second monitor (1080p) hooked up, and was asked by another member if the overclock was working while having dual monitors. After testing, I don't know what to believe. My PC/games/eyes are telling me the overclock is working. The website for testing refresh rate is telling me it isn't. Ideas???
> 
> Just for reference, I have now tried with my second monitor hooked up, and with it completely disconnected. No change at all. Still says I am running at 60hz/60fps on www.testufo.com.


Have you installed the driver for the monitor?

Also, are you using Internet Explorer?


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Have you installed the driver for the monitor?
> 
> Also, are you using Internet Explorer?


Yes, I installed the "Qnix" driver was installed the day I got it.
I am using Chrome.

A little more info-
Windows is saying I am running at 96hz or 120hz accordingly, when those resolutions are selected via Nvidia control panel
Nvidia control panel is saying I am running at the appropriate resolution(s)
I have restarted the computer a couple of times to see if that changes anything. Nada.
I have closed all other open web browser tabs, and non-essential programs. Still says 60hz/60fps when "testing"


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> Yes, I installed the "Qnix" driver was installed the day I got it.
> I am using Chrome.
> 
> A little more info-
> Windows is saying I am running at 96hz or 120hz accordingly, when those resolutions are selected via Nvidia control panel
> Nvidia control panel is saying I am running at the appropriate resolution(s)
> I have restarted the computer a couple of times to see if that changes anything. Nada.
> I have closed all other open web browser tabs, and non-essential programs. Still says 60hz/60fps when "testing"


Whenever I've updated geforce drivers, the Qnix driver has uninstalled itself too. I've always had to start again: nvidia patch for SLI; install the Qnix driver; set custom resolution in nvidia control panel.

Have you tried taking the picture on the frameskip test? That should be telling you what's really happening. There'll be twice as many white boxes on screen at 120hz, than at 60hz.

I'd be happy with that test, irrelevant of what Chrome is telling me.


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Whenever I've updated geforce drivers, the Qnix driver has uninstalled itself too. I've always had to start again: nvidia patch for SLI; install the Qnix driver; set custom resolution in nvidia control panel.
> 
> Have you tried taking the picture on the frameskip test? That should be telling you what's really happening. There'll be twice as many white boxes on screen at 120hz, than at 60hz.
> 
> I'd be happy with that test, irrelevant of what Chrome is telling me.


I'm definitely going to do some more testing when I get home. I have not updated Nvidia drivers since I got the monitor (have only had it for a week), so that is not it. Thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## latprod

so.... I just trashed my qnix 27" glossy today. got it 8 months ago, now it's dead. But a quick ebay search leads me to believe there are mostly matte screens being sold. Saw a glossy one for approx 900 dollars. really? Is this the deal now? I wanna get a new one asap but does that mean i have to get a matte one?
Are there other alternatives?


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> so.... I just trashed my qnix 27" glossy today. got it 8 months ago, now it's dead. But a quick ebay search leads me to believe there are mostly matte screens being sold. Saw a glossy one for approx 900 dollars. really? Is this the deal now? I wanna get a new one asap but does that mean i have to get a matte one?
> Are there other alternatives?


How did it happen man? No chance of getting a new one on warranty?


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> so.... I just trashed my qnix 27" glossy today. got it 8 months ago, now it's dead. But a quick ebay search leads me to believe there are mostly matte screens being sold. Saw a glossy one for approx 900 dollars. really? Is this the deal now? I wanna get a new one asap but does that mean i have to get a matte one?
> Are there other alternatives?


Aren't these the same panels?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tempered-Glass-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/321226150944?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4aca921420


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criminal*
> 
> Aren't these the same panels?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tempered-Glass-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/321226150944?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4aca921420


No. There is a difference between the "glossy" and the "tempered glass" panels.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> How did it happen man? No chance of getting a new one on warranty?


oh man, i wish i could. it tipped over onto my keyboard due to a flimsy desk and broke. It's a goner man. I loved that damned thing.









edit: I guess i gotta go with a matte one then? what a damned bummer... i guess the matte coating can be removed if you're a pro... :/


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> so.... I just trashed my qnix 27" glossy today. got it 8 months ago, now it's dead. But a quick ebay search leads me to believe there are mostly matte screens being sold. Saw a glossy one for approx 900 dollars. really? Is this the deal now? I wanna get a new one asap but does that mean i have to get a matte one?
> Are there other alternatives?


These got all bought up by consumers, so now the sellers charge a ridiculous rate for them. I searched for several weeks for a glossy panel (a few weeks ago), and finally gave up. Even the used ones on Ebay are few and far between, and pretty much sell instantly. I ended up getting the "Matte" version. I'm sure I'd be happier with the glossy, but whatever. Not worth the gigantic markup.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> oh man, i wish i could. it tipped over onto my keyboard due to a flimsy desk and broke. It's a goner man. I loved that damned thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I guess i gotta go with a matte one then? what a damned bummer... i guess the matte coating can be removed if you're a pro... :/


Ah man - that sucks bro, sorry to hear it.

m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glossy-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/321099912197

$700/£400...

Best I could see


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Hey, how sharp is the tempered glass X-star exactly. Would you say it rivals an Apple display? And did yours come with any light bleed? Is the light bleed more noticeable or less noticeable with a tempered glass?


My grandpa owns a new imac 27", and I honestly feel my xstar has better colors and saturation out of the box, also I can't do 60hz anymore... 110hz only for me... for life...

edit: little light bleed in lower left hand corner but not much of an issue 95% of the time... also a fraction of the price than apple.

even playing a card game like hearthstone, 110hz just feels nicer on the eyes and makes the game more enjoyable to me.


----------



## StarCitizenGuy

Yeah whena
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> My grandpa owns a new imac 27", and I honestly feel my xstar has better colors and saturation out of the box, also I can't do 60hz anymore... 110hz only for me... for life...
> 
> edit: little light bleed in lower left hand corner but not much of an issue 95% of the time... also a fraction of the price than apple.
> 
> even playing a card game like hearthstone, 110hz just feels nicer on the eyes and makes the game more enjoyable to me.


Yeah seriously, when I go on 60Hz I get sick. Sick of feeling like I'm on bath salts and seizing up, skipping in space time. F 60hz.


----------



## Tyhuynh

Finally my last qnix coming in tomorrow! It's crazy how fast those Koreans ship their products.


Wonder how much profits their profits are.
Anyways can't wait to set up triple qnix nvidia surround


----------



## AdamHD

I figured out my overclocking problem. Not only does the second monitor screw up the overclock (like suggested by others in the thread), but the Windows theme I was running was also pushing my overclock (at least as far as chrome was concerned) back to 60hz. So, I switched the theme back to the standard "Windows 7" theme, and disconnected my second monitor... for the time being. Problem solved. I still think the overclock was working (in game), because when V-Sync was enabled it would cap at the appropriate frame rate, but yeah... I'll just plug the DVI cable into the second monitor when I am ready to use it for 1920x1080 tasks.


----------



## renji1337

for calibrating with dipscalgui should i use REC 709 or gamma mode 2.2?


----------



## RomeSC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> I figured out my overclocking problem. Not only does the second monitor screw up the overclock (like suggested by others in the thread), but the Windows theme I was running was also pushing my overclock (at least as far as chrome was concerned) back to 60hz. So, I switched the theme back to the standard "Windows 7" theme, and disconnected my second monitor... for the time being. Problem solved. I still think the overclock was working (in game), because when V-Sync was enabled it would cap at the appropriate frame rate, but yeah... I'll just plug the DVI cable into the second monitor when I am ready to use it for 1920x1080 tasks.


Sorry to be the member that disrupted your setup! You mentioned that you installed the qnix monitor driver. Could you please tell me where can I find this driver? Thanks man, and good luck getting your secondary 1080p monitor set up. If I get mine working I'll let you know how


----------



## latprod

So, has any of you ever attempted to remove the anti glare coating? Saw a video tutorial from a dude who did it with his Dell U2312HM.
Anyone know if it is even possible with this monitor? I just saw a tempered glass x-star on ebay for about a 100$ more, so I guess I can go for that...:/


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> So, has any of you ever attempted to remove the anti glare coating? Saw a video tutorial from a dude who did it with his Dell U2312HM.
> Anyone know if it is even possible with this monitor? I just saw a tempered glass x-star on ebay for about a 100$ more, so I guess I can go for that...:/


If/when you get it, let us know how well it compares to the glossy.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> If/when you get it, let us know how well it compares to the glossy.


Yeah will do, if I do get the x-star. I've heard so many things when it comes to glossy/matte/tempered glass and it seems everyones opinion differ, so I can't really get my head around it. I was extremely happy with my glossy screen, so I am afraid of switching to matte now


----------



## 3m3k

just ordered this one here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/111258830737?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19e78b0791

can't wait till I open the box....


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RomeSC*
> 
> Sorry to be the member that disrupted your setup! You mentioned that you installed the qnix monitor driver. Could you please tell me where can I find this driver? Thanks man, and good luck getting your secondary 1080p monitor set up. If I get mine working I'll let you know how


Here's the Qnix driver. Instructions are included.

QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> just ordered this one here
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/111258830737?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19e78b0791
> 
> can't wait till I open the box....


Wait, isn't that the same exact one that he has in his other listing for $279?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Same seller, same monitor, different price.


----------



## 3m3k

yep but the 279 one does not ship to Ireland unfortunately


----------



## Chowchilla

Hey guys, been a while since ive been here. I was recently at a LAN and while playing a game of TA (at 1080p because you cant see anything at 1440p) i noticed that my monitor was.. blurry. im running at 1080 now and its so blurry. I know these displays dont have internal scalers but is there anything i can do ?

Qnix2710 on a GTX 770.

Thanks.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Wait, isn't that the same exact one that he has in his other listing for $279?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> Same seller, same monitor, different price.


I thought the multi input ones (ie display port hdmi) didn't overclock and skipped frames?


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> just ordered this one here
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/111258830737?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19e78b0791
> 
> can't wait till I open the box....


I can't seem to find their DOA policy. Do you know what it is for that seller?


----------



## 3m3k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I thought the multi input ones (ie display port hdmi) didn't overclock and skipped frames?


It says DVI only there. I hope i didn't act to fast and buy the non OC one... starting to worry...


----------



## sinnedone

In item specifics it says dvi-d only but the description has alot of other info. Hopefully its just for other models that seller has?

I think I might have been mistaken. Looks like the "deals of the week" is the multi input monitor.


----------



## 3m3k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criminal*
> 
> I can't seem to find their DOA policy. Do you know what it is for that seller?


Didn't look for the policy ... busy day at work 2day... assumed that it has a decent policy as the shop has 99,6% so has to care for the customers


----------



## 3m3k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> In item specifics it says dvi-d only but the description has alot of other info. Hopefully its just for other models that seller has?
> 
> I think I might have been mistaken. Looks like the "deals of the week" is the multi input monitor.


Doesn't have anything like " multi" or "true 10" in the description so i hope it's the one i want


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> Didn't look for the policy ... busy day at work 2day... assumed that it has a decent policy as the shop has 99,6% so has to care for the customers


Prophet of doom here ;-)
Don't assume anything.
My seller had a 98.8% rating and has been shockingly bad in terms of after sales care following the failure of my QNIX.
Have a look through this forum and have a look at the sellers who have recommendations for after sales care. First page has a handy purchase table with seller feedback which I wish I'd seen before I made my purchase.


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Prophet of doom here ;-)
> Don't assume anything.
> My seller had a 98.8% rating and has been shockingly bad in terms of after sales care following the failure of my QNIX.
> Have a look through this forum and have a look at the sellers who have recommendations for after sales care. First page has a handy purchase table with seller feedback which I wish I'd seen before I made my purchase.


Dwayen Dibley - the Duke of Dork


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Dwayen Dibley - the Duke of Dork


So this is really me? A no-style gimbo with teeth the Druids could use as a place of worship?


----------



## Overfiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> So this is really me? A no-style gimbo with teeth the Druids could use as a place of worship?


Eau De Yak Urine


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overfiend*
> 
> Eau De Yak Urine


"One triple thick condom... You never know..."
Ahhh - we could go on...


----------



## Gualichu04

My monitor is still going great at 96hz and has minimal bleed. Any higher overclock and i get the green lines on the screen.


----------



## Tyhuynh

Triple monitor stand on the way friday!also the bizlink active display port to dual link dvi!!

I talked to the ups employee Said that the shipping cost would be over $100. Makes you wonder how much the Koreans really make per order.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> My monitor is still going great at 96hz and has minimal bleed. Any higher overclock and i get the green lines on the screen.


Same here. 96Hz MAX overclock, no dead/stuck pixels, minimal light bleed... I'm a happy customer.

Hey, but the light bleed seems to have decreased some after breaking it in. Has yours? I have two flares on the bottom corners that are the same size but not nearly as bright or pronounced as before.

I've had mine for 6 days now, BTW.


----------



## Rankre

Last component for my PC arrives tomorrow... Wish me luck for when I plug that qnix monitor in and test it. Fingers crossed.


----------



## Proxish

Hey,

I'm trying to calibrate the colours on my monitor, but I'm just don't understand what I'm supposed to do.
I downloaded Colour Sustainer, and I can't figure it out, I also downloaded profiles as well, but no joy with those, no idea how to use them.

I have had the monitor for months, and I'm only just getting around to colour calibrating it.
I use my Pc for artwork as well as gaming, for gaming it's fine, but for artwork it's awful because of the vast difference in colour when switching monitos.
My monitor is a Glossy QNIX QX2710LED, I overclocked it to 100hz via the nVidia control panel. I also have a Cintiq 12WX which the colours seem fine on, I also have another Tv sitting above the QNIX monitor.
If someone could help me figure out how I can get all monitors to display the same colours, that'd be great, as it's making colour checking my artwork a nightmare.

Thanks,


----------



## gobblebox

I feel very stupid... I've expanded every section of the OP and cannot find the application link anywhere... can someone educate me with its location, please?


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Same here. 96Hz MAX overclock, no dead/stuck pixels, minimal light bleed... I'm a happy customer.
> 
> Hey, but the light bleed seems to have decreased some after breaking it in. Has yours? I have two flares on the bottom corners that are the same size but not nearly as bright or pronounced as before.
> 
> I've had mine for 6 days now, BTW.


Mine has decreased a bit also. I have been using my qnix since the end of April.


----------



## Peen

Stand came in and other monitor. Also does 120hz like first one. You get what you pay for in some regards. The screw holes for the mounting bracket are too shallow, and also, the clear part of the stand is attached in a way that I think you have to take monitor apart. Don't mind the lack of cable management. This is going to my office at work in abouta week so everything is changing.


----------



## Captaincaveman

can you post the link of the monitor you bought?
also, is mixing qnix/x-star a problem? (all matt)


----------



## Peen

I got 2 of these, and an LG 23"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491

I like this orientation better, will be nice for excel


----------



## 3m3k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peen*
> 
> I got 2 of these, and an LG 23"
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491
> 
> ]


how was your experience with that seller? any bad pixels or annoying bleeding?

asking as expecting delivery on Wednesday


----------



## giltyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Prophet of doom here ;-)
> Don't assume anything.
> My seller had a 98.8% rating and has been shockingly bad in terms of after sales care following the failure of my QNIX.
> Have a look through this forum and have a look at the sellers who have recommendations for after sales care. First page has a handy purchase table with seller feedback which I wish I'd seen before I made my purchase.


That table is not updated recently from what I can tell


----------



## bluedevil

Well, my rig is down for a while. Dead 290.







RMA submitted though. What card can I get in the meantime that will let me play some Titanfall at 92hz maxed out?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Proxish*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I'm trying to calibrate the colours on my monitor, but I'm just don't understand what I'm supposed to do.
> I downloaded Colour Sustainer, and I can't figure it out, I also downloaded profiles as well, but no joy with those, no idea how to use them.
> 
> I have had the monitor for months, and I'm only just getting around to colour calibrating it.
> I use my Pc for artwork as well as gaming, for gaming it's fine, but for artwork it's awful because of the vast difference in colour when switching monitos.
> My monitor is a Glossy QNIX QX2710LED, I overclocked it to 100hz via the nVidia control panel. I also have a Cintiq 12WX which the colours seem fine on, I also have another Tv sitting above the QNIX monitor.
> If someone could help me figure out how I can get all monitors to display the same colours, that'd be great, as it's making colour checking my artwork a nightmare.
> 
> Thanks,


*Guess I should finally expand a bit on the topic of getting monitors to match in terms of color.*

We have several types of display calibration. Let's talk about grayscale calibration first.

This graph shows the measurements of Red, Green, and Blue luminance obtained on 100 grayscale levels on the Qnix left uncalibrated:
[Qnix\Default_RGB_Levels]









These grayscale levels are produced by mixing the Red, Green, and Blue primaries. These primaries are shown on the following CIE diagram:
[Qnix\Default_Gamut_Primaries]









This CIE diagram is a normalized diagram. We take color values from a 3D space and normalize them by making the 3rd axis (Y) represent luminance, and leave only x and y (chromaticity coordinates) representing the colors themselves. This allows us to map these values to a 2D space.

The R,G,B primaries have the same chromaticity coordinates for all values of R,G, and B respectively. R64 and R255 both have the same *hue* of the color Red, just different luminance. A purely Red color emitted by the display should have the same wavelength / chromaticity but different brightness for different values of Red, given that the backlight is a perfect white light source (more on what *white* is later).

The black triangle you see in that CIE diagram is the sRGB colorspace. The colorspace is the range of colors according to which content is produced. The sRGB colorspace is that which all (99.99%?) consumer content we currently have available is produced in.

This colorspace specifies the chromaticity coordinates / wavelengths of R,G,B required to hit a whitepoint Color Temperature) of 6500K (Daylight), when these primaries are mixed in equal quantities (luminance). The grayscale levels should all be of 6500K color temperature as well, and grays such as 75,75,75 or 231,231,231 (near white) should have these primaries mixed in equal amounts (luminance) as well.

Let's assume we are dealing with a monitor that has its primaries perfectly matching those required by the sRGB colorspace. Grayscale calibration ensures that all grays are at 6500K, with no error. Red, Green, and Blue primaries are also accurate, thus the secondaries Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and all other colors are perfectly accurate within the sRGB colorspace. No issues, perfect monitor that can display all colors accurately for sRGB content.

How are these primaries produced? The chromaticity coordinates / wavelengths of these primaries are a function of the backlight used (CCFL, White LED, RGB LED, GB-LED, Blue LED with Quantum Dots, etc...) and the filter material used in the pixels themselves, and what wavelengths they allow to pass through. You would need a perfectly white light source @ 6500K for the backlight, plus perfect filter material for the pixels that allows R, G, and B to match the wavelengths specified by the sRGB colorspace (or any colorspace, for that matter). It's hard enough to do that without factoring in time, as the backlight will drift over time, and so will the pixels, meaning that to ship out a monitor that's perfect in terms of primaries is pretty much an impossible feat currently. Even professional monitors costing in the thousands of dollars should be regularly calibrated for color-critical work.

We are thus dealing with monitors with inaccurate primaries to begin with:
[Qnix\Default_Primaries_Secondaries]









Observe the DeltaE values. These represent the degree of error. <1 is an invisible error. Above 3 is a clearly visible error.

Grayscale calibration *CANNOT* correct the primaries. Correcting the primaries entails mixing in other primaries. For example, if Red is off, R255 (G and B are naturally set to 0 by default) needs to be corrected to R255,G23,B21 for example to now match Red as specified in the sRGB colorspace. What then varies is the luminance, which can be controlled by changing the backlight brightness. The sRGB colorspace does not factor in luminance, as we have discussed before, but the standard which governs sRGB content also specifies certain luminance values that are suitable for color-critical work, e.g. 120 cd/m2. We shall see soon why grayscale calibration cannot tell the system that instead of asking for R255,G0,B0, it should ask for R255,G23,B21 so that R255 is actually displayed in accordance with the sRGB colorspace.

To prove this point graphically...Qnix @ Default vs. Calibrated:

RGB Levels:
[Qnix\Default_RGB_Levels]








[Qnix\Calibrated_RGB_Levels]









Grayscale measures:
[Qnix\Default_Measures]








[Qnix\Calibrated_Measures]









Color Temperature:
[Qnix\Default_Color_Temperature]








[Qnix\Calibrated_Color_Temperature]









Gamma:
[Qnix\Default_Gamma1]








[Qnix\Calibrated_Gamma1]








[Qnix\Default_Gamma2]








[Qnix\Calibrated_Gamma2]









How exactly is the luminance of each grayscale level determined? Gamma curve, output = input^gamma. Since the input is in the range 0-->1 (corresponding to 0-->255 for 8-bit color channels), a gamma greater than 1 shifts the curve down from the linear curve output = input. Target gamma is 2.2. Gamma correction.

Now, on to the CIE diagram and the measures for the Primaries and Secondaries:

CIE Diagram:
[Qnix\Default_Gamut]








[Qnix\Calibrated_Gamut]









Primaries and Secondaries:
[Qnix\Default_Primaries_Secondaries]








[Qnix\Calibrated_Primaries_Secondaries]









By changing the whitepoint, the saturations align, but they are still not accurate as the primaries that produce these saturations are not accurate as well. Each of these primaries is equally inaccurate across the entire range of grayscales and saturations, therefore the saturations will still line up to produce 6500K white / grayscales at R=G=B (max, 255 in the case of white).

Why cannot grayscale calibration correct the primaries?
[Qnix\Calibrated_Curves]









Look at these curves. Each is an individual curve. The Red curve says: map an input of 129 to an output of 121.67. This means that when the color R129,Gj,Bk is requested, the output produced is R121.67, GJ, BK, so that we actually get a value of R129,Gj,Bk according to the sRGB standard. The input-output curve of Red operates independently of Green and Blue. Regardless of the values j and k, and their corresponding mappings (in the Green and Blue curves) J and K respectively, 129 will ALWAYS map to 121.67.

Take the simplest case of wanting to keep the blackpoint the same, since we can only make the blackpoint more accurate by raising luminance for the R,G,B components used to produce black (0 by default, we cannot go below 0). To make Red accurate, R255,G0,B0 --> R255,G23,B21; however, we would want to keep G0 --> G0 and B0 --> B0 and that we cannot do with three separate, independent curves which can only affect colors together when this color has all three components R,G,B.

Obviously, this limitation applies to all other colors, except grayscale. Given that we have inaccurate primaries, mix those primaries in a fashion such that in mixture, the grayscale produced is accurate. Have 10% less Red than is necessary? Make a Red I/O curve such that all Red values are raised to compensate for the 10% difference.

This wraps up, in a nutshell, why we call this type of calibration "Grayscale calibration".

Windows supports these types of curves. So, applications such as Color Sustainer (cool dev made this







) load these profiles using functions provided with Windows. For calibrations further than grayscale, you would require the application to be color-aware. Games are not color-aware, but applications such as Photoshop are, and these applications allow gamut mapping in order to correct the primaries themselves, and not only the grayscale.

When using multiple monitors, there is a clear issue when using applications that are not color-aware: Different monitors, especially different models using different panels, have different gamuts. Here is the Qnix vs. my ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED, even when calibrated:

[Qnix\Calibrated_Gamut]








[ViewSonic\Calibrated_Gamut]









Whites will be pretty close, so will grayscale, but the other colors are not. There will be a difference in saturation, where, let's say, Yellow is more saturated on the Qnix vs. the ViewSonic. In fact, all colors will be more saturated on the Qnix, given that it covers 99.7% of the sRGB colorspace but is actually ~117% the volume of the sRGB gamut. On the other hand, the ViewSonic covers ~95% and its volume barely exceeds the volume of the sRGB gamut.

*For best results*, you would need to buy a hardware sensor to calibrate all displays to the same standard. Do not rely on profiles available on the internet if you're doing color-critical work, *especially* on multiple displays since each monitor is different. At the very least, monitors from the same model (just different samples) might have gamuts that are close enough to be indiscernible, but will have different gamma response and thus will require grayscale calibration. At the most, each might require different gamut mapping in order to display sRGB content properly.

Even when using a single monitor, the mere fact that its gamut will not perfect match the sRGB colorspace and the grayscale will be off means that you would require a hardware sensor for the best results.

My recommendations, as of 2014-07-24? The Spyder4Express (budget), the Colormunki Display (reverse-engineered to work with 3rd-party applications, medium budget), and the i1 Display Pro.

Spyder4Express: similar sensor in a cheaper package than the Pro, Elite packages, works with 3rd-party applications such as ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI. Lacks an ambient sensor, though.

Colormunki Display & i1DP: Similar (if not identical) hardware. X-Rite quotes a difference in measurement speed, although that might be their software at play (really, really unsure; there might actually be a hardware difference, as I might have read once that the Colormunki is somewhat slower even on ArgyllCMS). The i1DP has an SDK available and 3rd-party applications support it without reverse-engineered drivers.

Paid 3rd-party software such as CalMAN will only support the i1DP. Open-source 3rd-party software such as ArgyllCMS (and dispcalGUI and HCFR which work based on the ArgyllCMS library) support both sensors, albeit with a reverse-engineered driver for the Colormunki Display.

Feel free to add this to the OP, *wntrsnowg*.


----------



## dpl2007

Hmm I am a bit annoyed with mine well only a bit its fine going to 96 hz but any of the other lawson timings and i get green lines







. I even bought an extra thick cable from mono price to try and get more out of it but nothing anyone got any other good low timings? Would be nice to get to 110 :S ...I also have two 290s in crossfire I don't know if that makes things worse for me?


----------



## Peen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> how was your experience with that seller? any bad pixels or annoying bleeding?
> 
> asking as expecting delivery on Wednesday


Very very good. I ordered monday night, and received Wednesday. Almost seems impossible from South Korea.

I can't speak for second monitor yet because I got home very late to set up mount in pic, but first had 0 dead pixels but does have some backlight bleed that can be annoying in certain situations. It has some pretty bad image retention even slightly overclocked as well.

The mounting on the back is bad because the holes are much too shallow. And to get all of the stand off, I'm assuming you have to take the monitor apart.

But for $279 shipped it's a great deal.


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> how was your experience with that seller? any bad pixels or annoying bleeding?
> 
> asking as expecting delivery on Wednesday


I also bought the exact same monitor(same listing, same matte "SE" model) , from the exact same seller. No dead pixels, overclocks to 120hz, and had minimal backlight bleed (that I have somewhat "fixed"). My monitor came in two business days. Absolutely amazing.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

I just checked when I got my monitor, already have it more then 1 year. It's been on it's stock 60Hz ever since, think I'm going to see if I can overclock it to 96Hz tonight.

It does need some cleaning, many dirty fingerprints visible.

I have mine hanging on the wall, but the stupid wallmount that I got somehow makes it look like the monitor is crooked. Even though everthing is level.


----------



## BulletSponge

I overclocked my QNIX last night to 110Hz but after a couple of hours started to get a couple of horizontal white lines in Divinity:Original Sin. Backed it off to 96Hz and satisfied with that. I showed my 12 year old daughter how butter smooth BF4 is at 96 and now she is pouting wanting a QNIX as well. I don't think she understands her GTX 760 can't push as many pixels as my rig can.


----------



## batminseok

Having major issues with my QNIX 2710 as of this morning, when I turned it off last night it was working perfectly as it has been doing for the past 4 months since I bought it, minus a few blackscreening/power issues that have been fixed.
Not sure how do describe the issue but I've taken pics:




A few things to note is that the pixels 'jiggle' and they see to be appearing on the left side of the screen only. Horizontal lines, and they appear maybe 10 minutes into using my PC. I have not overclocked this monitor so it's still at 60hz, but it is a warm day (23 degrees C) and the back panel is quite warm also. I've also unplugged my second 720p monitor with no change, and am running it off a 660ti with the 332 driver, but it doesnt seem to be the gpu output as screenshots show no faults. When I'm browsing the issues seen to come up on images and video primarily and on video seem to be 'following' the motion.
Any help would be much appreiciated, Thanks!


----------



## dpl2007

Hmmm so looks like I may be stuck on 96hz







was hoping for a bit more and I can seem to get to about 102 with the tiniest of ghosting I think it is (kind of hazy band near the right hand side of screen).

Anyway I just wondered is there anywhere to find out what all the settings do in CRU as I seem to be just putting in lower numbers to get a lower mhz but from what I see im getting green lines no were near the 450 mhz let alone the high ones i see online it is supposed to be able to do so is the numbers mucking things up etc. ? I only hit 410 mhz with my 107 setting but that has a clear ghosting issue my 102 rez is at 391 only but as I say has the tiniest of ghosting going on in a band on the right. Heres a shot:

Think I have done everything I can but any tips would be good - also didn't see anything specifically on what each number does in the cru thread maybe i missed it?

Anyway I did the 'reduce frequency for higher resolutions' in amds panel and that seemed to do nothing as well I also have a fat I think its 24 awg monitor lead and that does nothing as well







.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batminseok*
> 
> Having major issues with my QNIX 2710 as of this morning, when I turned it off last night it was working perfectly as it has been doing for the past 4 months since I bought it, minus a few blackscreening/power issues that have been fixed.
> Not sure how do describe the issue but I've taken pics:
> A few things to note is that the pixels 'jiggle' and they see to be appearing on the left side of the screen only. Horizontal lines, and they appear maybe 10 minutes into using my PC. I have not overclocked this monitor so it's still at 60hz, but it is a warm day (23 degrees C) and the back panel is quite warm also. I've also unplugged my second 720p monitor with no change, and am running it off a 660ti with the 332 driver, but it doesnt seem to be the gpu output as screenshots show no faults. When I'm browsing the issues seen to come up on images and video primarily and on video seem to be 'following' the motion.
> Any help would be much appreiciated, Thanks!


Seems like a cable issue. Tried a different cable?


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamHD*
> 
> I also bought the exact same monitor(same listing, same matte "SE" model) , from the exact same seller. No dead pixels, overclocks to 120hz, and had minimal backlight bleed (that I have somewhat "fixed"). My monitor came in two business days. Absolutely amazing.


Dude, how exactly did you help the light bleed problem? I tried using a folded piece of paper and inserting it in-between the screen and the bezel like you suggested, but in order to get rid of the "flare" if you will, I had to fold it about 2-3mm thick and it would press up against the LCD and distort it along the edge. Could you elaborate a little more on your fix... where exactly did you place the paper, how thick, etc

TY


----------



## batminseok

Well I hope so I dont want to have to replace the monitor, but the power cable or the dvi?? I can replace the power chord easily but I'll need to order a new DVI


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batminseok*
> 
> Well I hope so I dont want to have to replace the monitor, but the power cable or the dvi?? I can replace the power chord easily but I'll need to order a new DVI


DVI


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Dude, how exactly did you help the light bleed problem? I tried using a folded piece of paper and inserting it in-between the screen and the bezel like you suggested, but in order to get rid of the "flare" if you will, I had to fold it about 2-3mm thick and it would press up against the LCD and distort it along the edge. Could you elaborate a little more on your fix... where exactly did you place the paper, how thick, etc
> 
> TY


I took two pieces of paper (about 1/4 of an inch wide and about 2 inches long AFTER being folded in half twice), and lined the bottom left corner. One on bottom left of the left side (vertical) and another on the bottom left of the left side (horizontal), so they meet in an "L". I have very minimal distortion from the bottom corner.. but it is barely noticeable. Not as bad as the backlight bleed I had going on. Not sure if this will work for anyone else (and it's probably not the safest method), but it worked for me.


----------



## nalo123

Hm, my X-Star doesn't want to overclock ANYWHERE above 60Hz.

It supposedly goes up to 120Hz, but it drops half of its frames. In the UFO Test, I get a pattern of white-black-white-black-white-black...etc.

Even at 66Hz, it shows dropped frames. Could this be a software issue?


----------



## Kokin

Hey guys, I was wondering if my Qnix got busted?

Earlier when using it, the lighting started to pulse between normal and dim and it eventually went all black and I haven't been able to get any picture since then. However, when I unplug the power and replug it back in, it goes into the quick test mode where it shows red/green and then it turns off again. This shows that the *backlighting and PLS panel are working as intended*, but I'm not getting any signal from my computer. The LED power light is blinking blue like it is in standby mode and R9 290 cannot detect the Qnix any longer.

I've had it for almost a year and it was OC'd to 120Hz with my 7950 and then 108Hz with my R9 290. Outside of driver issues before, there have been no problems with my monitor. Any ideas to get this up and working again?


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hey guys, I was wondering if my Qnix got busted?
> 
> Earlier when using it, the lighting started to pulse between normal and dim and it eventually went all black and I haven't been able to get any picture since then. However, when I unplug the power and replug it back in, it goes into the quick test mode where it shows red/green and then it turns off again. This shows that the *backlighting and PLS panel are working as intended*, but I'm not getting any signal from my computer. The LED power light is blinking blue like it is in standby mode and R9 290 cannot detect the Qnix any longer.
> 
> I've had it for almost a year and it was OC'd to 120Hz with my 7950 and then 108Hz with my R9 290. Outside of driver issues before, there have been no problems with my monitor. Any ideas to get this up and working again?


edit: do you get any image at all when booting up the computer?

boot in safe mode?

if you get your image back then maybe go back down to 60hz for awhile and see if you still have problems.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Joseph Dirt*
> 
> edit: do you get any image at all when booting up the computer?
> 
> boot in safe mode?
> 
> if you get your image back then maybe go back down to 60hz for awhile and see if you still have problems.


Nope, zero signal is detected and it starts booting off my secondary monitor.


----------



## nalo123

Wow. Just realised, 2 months after purchase, that I received a Multi-input X-star when the E-bay listing I used to purchase mentions nothing of Multi. What a shame :/

Can someone go ahead and tell me 60Hz and 120Hz aren't much of a difference to make me feel better? Ahaha...


----------



## Saliciouscrumbs

I installed the drivers. When I check the device manager it says QX2710. But in NvCP I still can't change the refresh rate. The only option that is given is 60Hz. Any ideas what could be causing this?

I used to be able to overclock with CRU, until I came back to this thread and for some reason now Nvidia users should instead be using the driver.

Edit: Do I have create a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel and set it to 96?


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nalo123*
> 
> Wow. Just realised, 2 months after purchase, that I received a Multi-input X-star when the E-bay listing I used to purchase mentions nothing of Multi. What a shame :/
> 
> Can someone go ahead and tell me 60Hz and 120Hz aren't much of a difference to make me feel better? Ahaha...


I was just about to ask if it was multi... yes well you could argue it was miss sold I guess. It is true allot of us can only get to 96hz it is nice but I wouldn't say I've been wowed yet possibly because it looks nice with things like dota 2 but watchdogs has issues with over 60fps and wolfstein is locked to 60fps annoyingly! I need to try cs but the gfx is not so great so it's a little but of a strange situation... Guess I'm waiting for alien isolation. Also allot of people have blown there monitors over clocking so it could be worse







. it's possible I'll change my mind later but next time I think I'll probably get a proper 120hz tbh I would prefer higher pixel density to anything ( as long as the picture quality and motion is good).


----------



## nalo123

Oh, is it still possible to get 96Hz even with multi-models?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> I was just about to ask if it was multi... yes well you could argue it was miss sold I guess. It is true allot of us can only get to 96hz it is nice but I wouldn't say I've been wowed yet possibly because it looks nice with things like dota 2 but watchdogs has issues with over 60fps and wolfstein is locked to 60fps annoyingly! I need to try cs but the gfx is not so great so it's a little but of a strange situation... Guess I'm waiting for alien isolation. Also allot of people have blown there monitors over clocking so it could be worse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . it's possible I'll change my mind later but next time I think I'll probably get a proper 120hz tbh I would prefer higher pixel density to anything ( as long as the picture quality and motion is good).


Oh, is it still possible to get to 96Hz even with multi-models? Maybe I'm doing something wrong, getting dropped frames for anything above 60


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nalo123*
> 
> Oh, is it still possible to get 96Hz even with multi-models?
> Oh, is it still possible to get to 96Hz even with multi-models? Maybe I'm doing something wrong, getting dropped frames for anything above 60


ah no I don't think so I meant us with the single input can only usually get to 96 not many users get 120 even if they can allot go wrong as well...


----------



## yasamoka

Where did you see that many blow their monitors while overclocking? This is needlessly scaring users who are planning to overclock their monitors.


----------



## llBadassll

Just received my monitor
It doesn't work !!





I7 3770k
P8z77vpro
Gt 440


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Where did you see that many blow their monitors while overclocking? This is needlessly scaring users who are planning to overclock their monitors.


Yes perhaps I should say I have seen quiet a few monitors going wrong after ocing to 120 for longer periods of time. Could be unrelated but I'm doubting it. Ocing to 96 is probably OK especially as you don't up the MHz it is true it's hard to confirm if some of the problems are the ocing. But make your own mind up check out just the last few pages quiet a few problems...


----------



## Kokin

Quick update on my monitor.

I took it apart and inspected the PCB, but nothing seemed to be wrong or burnt. Backlighting and PLS panel are still in working order. For some odd reason, the Qnix needs to be unplugged for both the power and DL-DVI, and after booting up my computer, the DVI cable must be attached first and then the power cable in order for my computer to pick up a signal. What's even more weird is that the picture is perfect, but it starts pulsating/blinking like crazy until I turn the monitor off to stand by mode and will continue to blink until it is turned off for long periods of time. *Note that this is at 60Hz.*

This only started happening after a blackout yesterday, so would this point towards a faulty power adapter brick? My computer and monitors are all connected to the same power strip, but it seems like only the Qnix was affected.

If so, is there a recommended power brick (12V 5A) that I should look into? Also, if it is the PCB, how would I go about trying to get a replacement PCB? I bought my monitor locally, so would the Ebay sellers be willing to sell a PCB to me?

Here is a short video on what I'm talking about (again @ 60Hz): *WARNING: May cause seizures*






A few photos of the disassembling process:




In terms of long-term overclocking, I have had my monitor for almost a year and I haven't experienced any problems before this one. Usage is anywhere from 2~12hrs in a given day and my monitor is set to turn off after 10 minutes of idling. I have a big feeling that my power brick was bricked (pun intended) from my power outage yesterday and is causing my problem. I will try to check the voltage levels of the adapter later and report back here.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Quick update on my monitor.
> 
> I took it apart and inspected the PCB, but nothing seemed to be wrong or burnt. Backlighting and PLS panel are still in working order. For some odd reason, the Qnix needs to be unplugged for both the power and DL-DVI, and after booting up my computer, the DVI cable must be attached first and then the power cable in order for my computer to pick up a signal. What's even more weird is that the picture is perfect, but it starts pulsating/blinking like crazy until I turn the monitor off to stand by mode and will continue to blink until it is turned off for long periods of time. *Note that this is at 60Hz.*
> 
> This only started happening after a blackout yesterday, so would this point towards a faulty power adapter brick? My computer and monitors are all connected to the same power strip, but it seems like only the Qnix was affected.
> 
> If so, is there a recommended power brick (12V 5A) that I should look into? Also, if it is the PCB, how would I go about trying to get a replacement PCB? I bought my monitor locally, so would the Ebay sellers be willing to sell a PCB to me?
> 
> Here is a short video on what I'm talking about (again @ 60Hz): *WARNING: May cause seizures*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few photos of the disassembling process:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In terms of long-term overclocking, I have had my monitor for almost a year and I haven't experienced any problems before this one. Usage is anywhere from 2~12hrs in a given day and my monitor is set to turn off after 10 minutes of idling. I have a big feeling that my power brick was bricked (pun intended) from my power outage yesterday and is causing my problem. I will try to check the voltage levels of the adapter later and report back here.


Surge protection on extension cord or not? I always use them after seeing some stuff broken via an outage... yes best to start with the cheap stuff like the brick of course


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> I was just about to ask if it was multi... yes well you could argue it was miss sold I guess. It is true allot of us can only get to 96hz it is nice but I wouldn't say I've been wowed yet possibly because it looks nice with things like dota 2 but watchdogs has issues with over 60fps and wolfstein is locked to 60fps annoyingly! I need to try cs but the gfx is not so great so it's a little but of a strange situation... Guess I'm waiting for alien isolation. *Also allot of people have blown there monitors over clocking so it could be worse*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . it's possible I'll change my mind later but next time I think I'll probably get a proper 120hz tbh I would prefer higher pixel density to anything ( as long as the picture quality and motion is good).
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Where did you see that many blow their monitors while overclocking? This is needlessly scaring users who are planning to overclock their monitors.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with Yaz ... dpl you may have fallen into the classic trap of these threads becoming primarily a place/resource for troubleshooting users problems, and you don't see the thousands of happy users that is typically just understood. Same thing with motherboards / GPUs / PSUs etc etc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nalo123*
> 
> Oh, is it still possible to get 96Hz even with multi-models?
> Oh, is it still possible to get to 96Hz even with multi-models? Maybe I'm doing something wrong, getting dropped frames for anything above 60


*Sorry NO* ... see *HERE* and the OP









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llBadassll*
> 
> Just received my monitor
> It doesn't work !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I7 3770k
> P8z77vpro
> Gt 440


Try reseating your cables (or a new one) / try the other GPU DVI socket (make sure it's the Dual DVI)
*AND* you may need a more powerful graphics card. Even though your GT440 says it supports Dual DVI/1440p.. .
It is well below the QNIX factory recommendations of at least a GTX460









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Quick update on my monitor.
> 
> I took it apart and inspected the PCB, but nothing seemed to be wrong or burnt. Backlighting and PLS panel are still in working order. For some odd reason, the Qnix needs to be unplugged for both the power and DL-DVI, and after booting up my computer, the DVI cable must be attached first and then the power cable in order for my computer to pick up a signal. What's even more weird is that the picture is perfect, but it starts pulsating/blinking like crazy until I turn the monitor off to stand by mode and will continue to blink until it is turned off for long periods of time. *Note that this is at 60Hz.*
> 
> This only started happening after a blackout yesterday, so would this point towards a faulty power adapter brick? My computer and monitors are all connected to the same power strip, but it seems like only the Qnix was affected.
> 
> If so, is there a recommended power brick (12V 5A) that I should look into? Also, if it is the PCB, how would I go about trying to get a replacement PCB? I bought my monitor locally, so would the Ebay sellers be willing to sell a PCB to me?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a short video on what I'm talking about (again @ 60Hz): *WARNING: May cause seizures*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few photos of the disassembling process:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In terms of long-term overclocking, I have had my monitor for almost a year and I haven't experienced any problems before this one. Usage is anywhere from 2~12hrs in a given day and my monitor is set to turn off after 10 minutes of idling. I have a big feeling that my power brick was bricked (pun intended) from my power outage yesterday and is causing my problem. I will try to check the voltage levels of the adapter later and report back here.


These monitors can be finicky with power requirements. I also had a power outage just the other day while my rig was in sleep mode ... everything fired back up fine except a bit of a scare w/the monitor as my blue power led doesn't work anymore, which is actually a good thing I had tape over it as it was annoying as hell. All other functions, most importantly overclocking are just fine









Could be your power brick, but more likely the PCB ...








*Here* are some popular quality power brick replacements.

As far as a PCB replacement goes, even people who didn't by from "storewithstory" talked to Bruce (good English) and got a replacement shipped to them. I think the price goes up from $65 for those that didn't originally buy from storewithstory.

OR check this out from a US? supplier @ $129 ... *HERE*

Let us know how it goes, and if you have the time, do a picture (video?) description of the process so we can put it in the OP


----------



## Tyhuynh

Triple qnix complete!

Navepoint triple monitor stand.
https://www.google.com/search?q=navepoint+triple+monitor+stand&client=ms-android-att-us&espvd=1&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sboxchip=Shopping&sa=X&ei=9OzTU8nUEYW4iwLj04CgDg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=360&bih=567#spd=88283805474382559

Very high quality. Heavy-duty stand. Side monitor tilting.


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Quick update on my monitor.
> 
> I took it apart and inspected the PCB, but nothing seemed to be wrong or burnt. Backlighting and PLS panel are still in working order. For some odd reason, the Qnix needs to be unplugged for both the power and DL-DVI, and after booting up my computer, the DVI cable must be attached first and then the power cable in order for my computer to pick up a signal. What's even more weird is that the picture is perfect, but it starts pulsating/blinking like crazy until I turn the monitor off to stand by mode and will continue to blink until it is turned off for long periods of time. *Note that this is at 60Hz.*
> 
> This only started happening after a blackout yesterday, so would this point towards a faulty power adapter brick? My computer and monitors are all connected to the same power strip, but it seems like only the Qnix was affected.


I'd feel confident in saying that the power brick got messed up, not the pcb. Replace that before anything else.


----------



## lurker2501

I need alternative link for amd pixel clock patcher. The original link is down.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> I need alternative link for amd pixel clock patcher. The original link is down.


still works here

http://www.monitortests.com/atikmdag-patcher-1.2.6.zip


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> still works here
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/atikmdag-patcher-1.2.6.zip


Can you download and attach it in here? I get "ERR_CONNECTION_RESET" all the time.


----------



## Peen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyhuynh*
> 
> Triple qnix complete!
> 
> Navepoint triple monitor stand.
> https://www.google.com/search?q=navepoint+triple+monitor+stand&client=ms-android-att-us&espvd=1&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sboxchip=Shopping&sa=X&ei=9OzTU8nUEYW4iwLj04CgDg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=360&bih=567#spd=88283805474382559
> 
> Very high quality. Heavy-duty stand. Side monitor tilting.


Looks good for the price. I went with another one that cost a little more. How do you like the base on that one? Only reason I didn't get that one was because the base looks a bit fat and not wide enough


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Can you download and attach it in here? I get "ERR_CONNECTION_RESET" all the time.


Anyone?


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Anyone?


http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Joseph Dirt*
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


Genius. The link from this website doesn't work for me.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Joseph Dirt*
> 
> works for me. sucks to be you.


This isn't Reddit or Youtube.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Can you download and attach it in here? I get "ERR_CONNECTION_RESET" all the time.


tried it exceeds the 5mb limit

try this:

HERE

http://1drv.ms/1us9FRJ


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> tried it exceeds the 5mb limit


How about mediafire or Rghost?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Anyone?


PM sent. I uploaded it into my clans TS3 server. It is in the file browser of the channel you first log into, no password necessary.


----------



## llBadassll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Try reseating your cables (or a new one) / try the other GPU DVI socket (make sure it's the Dual DVI)
> *AND* you may need a more powerful graphics card. Even though your GT440 says it supports Dual DVI/1440p.. .
> It is well below the QNIX factory recommendations of at least a GTX460


Thanks for your replay
I did try another cable
I think my GPU is powerful enough , but I guess this isn't the problem









As you can see :
DVI Output : Yes x 1 (*DVI-I*)
http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/ENGT440DI1GD5/specifications/

I guss I will have to buy a new card , maybe a cheap one until the new Maxwell
Or if I can find a way to make it work on onboard graphics

My monitor is the one with single DVI port


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> PM sent. I uploaded it into my clans TS3 server. It is in the file browser of the channel you first log into, no password necessary.


Thanks. Turned out Avast was blocking the link thinking it is malware.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llBadassll*
> 
> Thanks for your replay
> I did try another cable
> I think my GPU is powerful enough , but I guess this isn't the problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see :
> DVI Output : Yes x 1 (*DVI-I*)
> http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/ENGT440DI1GD5/specifications/
> 
> I guss I will have to buy a new card , maybe a cheap one until the new Maxwell
> Or if I can find a way to make it work on onboard graphics
> 
> My monitor is the one with single DVI port


My mistake ... the GT440 I looked up showed both DVI-D and DVI-I ports ... your card is different and has a VGA port in the place of the Dual DVI-D port which is what you need!



Your Asus GT440 doesn't have the dedicated Dual DVI-D port


Hope that helps clear things up ... you could pick up a GTX460 for as cheap as $40-$50 on Ebay for a temporary fix








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Joseph Dirt*
> 
> I'd feel confident in saying that the power brick got messed up, not the pcb. Replace that before anything else.


It will be interesting to see how the troubleshooting progresses? I agree I'd replace the brick 1st (cheap $15) but power bricks usually fail catastrophically unless there's a loose cord ...
@Kokin .... and before replacing the PCB I'd thoroughly test your 290 with a complete "clean" re-install of the drivers








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyhuynh*
> 
> Triple qnix complete!
> 
> Navepoint triple monitor stand.
> https://www.google.com/search?q=navepoint+triple+monitor+stand&client=ms-android-att-us&espvd=1&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sboxchip=Shopping&sa=X&ei=9OzTU8nUEYW4iwLj04CgDg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=360&bih=567#spd=88283805474382559
> 
> Very high quality. Heavy-duty stand. Side monitor tilting.


NICE! .... best price I've seen on a 3x stand


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> It will be interesting to see how the troubleshooting progresses? I agree I'd replace the brick 1st (cheap $15) but power bricks usually fail catastrophically unless there's a loose cord ...
> @Kokin .... and before replacing the PCB I'd thoroughly test your 290 with a complete "clean" re-install of the drivers


I've tried a clean install of the current 14.7 Beta, but I can try older ones as well. I have also tried safe mode with no avail.

I tried using a multimeter to test the voltage of the power brick and it does come out to a constant 12.15V, but that is with no load. I might try to hook up the multimeter to the monitor's PCB while I power it on, just to see the voltage levels when it has a load.

I also ordered the power brick you linked me to from lawson67's post and I'll be giving that a try first since it's only $12. Thanks again.


----------



## MDTeach

I'm currently going crazy because of the frame skipping caused by using my other screen(dell @ 60hz) as a second monitor, this only occurs when the Qnix is running @ 120hz. Does this problem also occur when using multiple Qnix monitors?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MDTeach*
> 
> I'm currently going crazy because of the frame skipping caused by using my other screen(dell @ 60hz) as a second monitor, this only occurs when the Qnix is running @ 120hz. Does this problem also occur when using multiple Qnix monitors?


I use a secondary HP IPS monitor @ 60Hz and my Qnix had no problems running things at 120Hz (7950) or 108Hz (R9 290). Make sure your application is using Windowed Fullscreen or regular Fullscreen in order to avoid having the application window peek into the secondary monitor.


----------



## maxlingz

I am considering buying one of the overclockable monitors, and I am wondering whether the Qnix at $290 is better than the Catleap "2B Extreme OC" monitor at 310, both on ebay. When I searched for the catleap, it seems like it used to be super expensive or is this a worse model than the expensive one?


----------



## MDTeach

I'm currently going crazy because of the frameskipping caused by using my other 2 monitors. Does this problem also occur if you're using
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I use a secondary HP IPS monitor @ 60Hz and my Qnix had no problems running things at 120Hz (7950) or 108Hz (R9 290). Make sure your application is using Windowed Fullscreen or regular Fullscreen in order to avoid having the application window peek into the secondary monitor.


The frameskipping is constant. It's even noticeable when dragging around my browser. (R9 290x)


----------



## shishkebab

Maybe my google-fu just isn't up to scratch, but I can't seem to find anyone else with a similar OC artifact. I'm lucky enough not to get any scan lines even at 120hz but beyond about 80hz these green splotches appear on the right side of the monitor and nowhere else. This picture is at 120hz:



Are these sort of artifacts just typical of this monitor, or is there something I can do to mitigate it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Other than this issue this is my perfect monitor


----------



## yasamoka

Typical issues. Run 60Hz on desktop and 120Hz in games.


----------



## lolwatpear

Hey I was wondering if someone could tell me how I could run 1080p off my onboard from my motherboard's hdmi, since they don't output 1440p, with the qnix. would something like this work:

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406455990&sr=8-1&keywords=dvi-d+to+hdmi

?

I want to sell my graphics card for the time being, but don't know if this solution would work.


----------



## Rankre

Finally got around to finishing up my PC build and just plugged in and tested the Qnix monitor. Granted it was early in the morning so there was some light from the window outside, but so far it looks like no dead pixels and no noticeable black light bleed. Bought this from Amazon.







Gonna test it again at night. Have not tried to OC it tho, but so far - dat resolution.

EDIT - tried OCing to 110hz, but got a horizontal artifact. Able to do 96hz comfortably without problems, at least so far. If this would have gone to 120hz it would have been too perfect :/


----------



## llBadassll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> My mistake ... the GT440 I looked up showed both DVI-D and DVI-I ports ... your card is different and has a VGA port in the place of the Dual DVI-D port which is what you need!
> 
> 
> 
> Your Asus GT440 doesn't have the dedicated Dual DVI-D port
> 
> 
> Hope that helps clear things up ... you could pick up a GTX460 for as cheap as $40-$50 on Ebay for a temporary fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be interesting to see how the troubleshooting progresses? I agree I'd replace the brick 1st (cheap $15) but power bricks usually fail catastrophically unless there's a loose cord ...
> @Kokin .... and before replacing the PCB I'd thoroughly test your 290 with a complete "clean" re-install of the drivers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NICE! .... best price I've seen on a 3x stand


I don't understand anything anymore !!
http://i.share.pho.to/855fc76f_o.png

suddenly it just work !!!






















no dead pixel , unnoticeable backlight bleed
120Hz OC
i guess this is my best 300$









THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey guys,

Question here, so I just overclocked my Qnix to 120hz, works fine, no artifacts or lines. Very fluent in games (Tomb Raider). But when I try to play BF4 and change the settings to 96hz, 110hz or 120hz. The game just crashes and I get something error code for Mantle.

I have2 hd7870's and the latest amd drivers.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Question here, so I just overclocked my Qnix to 120hz, works fine, no artifacts or lines. Very fluent in games (Tomb Raider). But when I try to play BF4 and change the settings to 96hz, 110hz or 120hz. The game just crashes and I get something error code for Mantle.
> 
> I have2 hd7870's and the latest amd drivers.


CrossFire requires two bridges to work properly at higher pixel clocks. The 7870 only has one CrossFire connector, so CrossFire won't work reliably at higher pixel clocks with the 7870. You might be able to work around this for BF4 by disabling Mantle, but you might encounter stuttering or DirectX errors instead.

CrossFire starts to crap out somewhere around 310-320 MHz pixel clock. You should be able to use 75 Hz without problems, and maybe 80 Hz if you tweak the timing parameters (try reducing the totals to 2660x1450). Beyond that, you'll have to disable CrossFire for some games to work properly.


----------



## bluedevil

Missing my Qnix right now with my rig out of commission.


----------



## BulletSponge

I'm having a weird issue with my 2710. When OC'ed (85Hz and up) I occasionally get a screen full of horizontal grey and multicolored lines when exiting Steam, games, or changing the refresh rate. It is a very rare occurrence so far but very unsettling when it happens. The strangest thing is that when I press the power button on my rig to re-boot the screen immediately clears up and I can see the shut down screen. I don't believe it is a cable or PCB issue. Could this be a problem with CCC 14.6 or just an issue with timings? When I overclocked the monitor all I did was change the refresh rate, I made no other changes in CRU.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxlingz*
> 
> I am considering buying one of the overclockable monitors, and I am wondering whether the Qnix at $290 is better than the Catleap "2B Extreme OC" monitor at 310, both on ebay. When I searched for the catleap, it seems like it used to be super expensive or is this a worse model than the expensive one?


Holy Crap ... your links seem to be valid! $335 was the best price I found, BUT even at that price I'd get the Catleap, I haven't seen them for a long time under $6-700. All the specs/description are legit ... One thing I couldn't confirm is if the panel is a matte or glossy finish. If a Catleap OC in a true glossy is available for $330+ THESE WILL SELL OUT FAST!

*EDIT:* Over in the Catleap thread Electro2u gives a valid and honest comparison as he owns both ... see *HERE*

For USA buyers and the "exclusive" Green-Sum warranty, $314 is now the cheapest I found WITH Perfect Pixel ... see *HERE*

I have an inquiry into Green-Sum if this is available in a "True Glossy" NOT Tempered Glass???
And if so I may have to "switch", and my 130Hz capable "Matte" Qnix will be for sale








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llBadassll*
> 
> I don't understand anything anymore !!
> http://i.share.pho.to/855fc76f_o.png
> 
> suddenly it just work !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no dead pixel , unnoticeable backlight bleed
> 120Hz OC
> i guess this is my best 300$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP


Well you can't argue with success ... some things I can't make sense of either, except a loose connection?
Anyway lets not look a gift horse in the mouth Congrat's ... you'll really love that 120Hz OC when you upgrade your GPU









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> CrossFire requires two bridges to work properly at higher pixel clocks. The 7870 only has one CrossFire connector, so CrossFire won't work reliably at higher pixel clocks with the 7870. You might be able to work around this for BF4 by disabling Mantle, but you might encounter stuttering or DirectX errors instead.
> 
> CrossFire starts to crap out somewhere around 310-320 MHz pixel clock. You should be able to use 75 Hz without problems, and maybe 80 Hz if you tweak the timing parameters (try reducing the totals to 2660x1450). Beyond that, you'll have to disable CrossFire for some games to work properly.


Nice! ... and good to see the "Big-Boys" still dropping in from time to time ... it has been and WILL continue to be much appreciated







+r


----------



## Enilder

1) Can anyone recommend a stand that can easily be pivoted? The HP stand is nice but they are discontinued AFAIK.

2) For the single input model, can you use hdmi to DVI cable? I am switching monitors and my laptop doesn't have DVI dual link output...Going to use it for Wii U.


----------



## steven88

Hey guys, I'm wondering if my X-Star is going bad? This has happened twice in a row now.

Basically I fire up my computer for the first time in the morning. But my monitor constantly changes color. Red, green, blue, black, white. There aren't any artifact lines, its FULL SIZED colored backgrounds. I know I'm in windows, but my monitor refuses to display anything except those full sized red, green, blue, black, white backgrounds. I force restart my computer and monitor...and everything goes back to normal.

Has anybody had this issue before? Is my X-star going into some kind of fail safe mode?


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Question here, so I just overclocked my Qnix to 120hz, works fine, no artifacts or lines. Very fluent in games (Tomb Raider). But when I try to play BF4 and change the settings to 96hz, 110hz or 120hz. The game just crashes and I get something error code for Mantle.
> 
> I have2 hd7870's and the latest amd drivers.


If your GPU's are overclocked,try running them at their normal clock speeds. I was getting the same exact error until I down clocked to stock speeds. Never got that Mantle error ever since.


----------



## scatlm

Hey, the light bleed on my monitor has gotten progressively better. It was not too terrible to begin with, but it was much more noticeable. Initially I had two flares coming from the bottom corners. The flares were not as bright as some other light bleed cases that I saw on Youtube, but they were there, nonetheless. However, they have gotten fainter and fainter. The right flare is almost gone. The size is noticeably smaller and fainter. I don't know what to attribute to this other than the fact the I'm always moving the monitor back and forth. I like to move it closer for gaming and farther back for web browsing and I usually grab it by the center-sides of the bezel... maybe that loosened up the assembly a bit.

But anyhow... I love this monitor. It's absolutely stunning in Skyrim w/ ENB + ELFX + retexts mods... and it's not even a glossy... I could only imagine how it would look with a glossy.


----------



## maxlingz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Holy Crap ... your links seem to be valid! $335 was the best price I found, BUT even at that price I'd get the Catleap, I haven't seen them for a long time under $6-700. All the specs/description are legit ... One thing I couldn't confirm is if the panel is a matte or glossy finish. If a Catleap OC in a true glossy is available for $330+ THESE WILL SELL OUT FAST!
> 
> *EDIT:* Over in the Catleap thread Electro2u gives a valid and honest comparison as he owns both ... see *HERE*
> 
> For USA buyers and the "exclusive" Green-Sum warranty, $314 is now the cheapest I found WITH Perfect Pixel ... see *HERE*
> 
> I have an inquiry into Green-Sum if this is available in a "True Glossy" NOT Tempered Glass???
> And if so I may have to "switch", and my 130Hz capable "Matte" Qnix will be for sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well you can't argue with success ... some things I can't make sense of either, except a loose connection?
> Anyway lets not look a gift horse in the mouth Congrat's ... you'll really love that 120Hz OC when you upgrade your GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! ... and good to see the "Big-Boys" still dropping in from time to time ... it has been and WILL continue to be much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +r


I am pretty sure the Catleap Extreme 2B OC only comes in Glossy. I just purchased one, sick deal!


----------



## Rankre

Quick question for everyone, I know this monitor is supposed to have some motion blur, but how bad is it for you? If I turn quickly in something like world of tanks, I get quite bad motion blur. Thats gonna take some getting used to.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rankre*
> 
> Quick question for everyone, I know this monitor is supposed to have some motion blur, but how bad is it for you? If I turn quickly in something like world of tanks, I get quite bad motion blur. Thats gonna take some getting used to.


are you running at 60hz or 120hz? blur is drastically reduced the higher the frequency.

courtesy of blurbusters:


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> are you running at 60hz or 120hz? blur is drastically reduced the higher the frequency.
> 
> courtesy of blurbusters:


I've got the monitor OC'd to 96hz, and during the blur buster tests, it does look similar to the 8ms persistence one.


----------



## Tyhuynh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tyhuynh*
> 
> Triple qnix complete!
> 
> Navepoint triple monitor stand.
> https://www.google.com/search?q=navepoint+triple+monitor+stand&client=ms-android-att-us&espvd=1&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sboxchip=Shopping&sa=X&ei=9OzTU8nUEYW4iwLj04CgDg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=360&bih=567#spd=88283805474382559
> 
> Very high quality. Heavy-duty stand. Side monitor tilting.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good for the price. I went with another one that cost a little more. How do you like the base on that one? Only reason I didn't get that one was because the base looks a bit fat and not wide enough
Click to expand...

Well I can't really comment on that since this is my first time ever with a triple monitor set up. The stand says it can house 28in monitors side to side, but it was a tight fit with the qnix. The base is solid, with thick foam pads. Overall I'm very happy with this stand. It even has the option of installing a clamp if you have a hole in your desk. Took me less than 20 min to set it up. 30 min to remove the qnix stock stand. Overall I'm happy with this product.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> CrossFire requires two bridges to work properly at higher pixel clocks. The 7870 only has one CrossFire connector, so CrossFire won't work reliably at higher pixel clocks with the 7870. You might be able to work around this for BF4 by disabling Mantle, but you might encounter stuttering or DirectX errors instead.
> 
> CrossFire starts to crap out somewhere around 310-320 MHz pixel clock. You should be able to use 75 Hz without problems, and maybe 80 Hz if you tweak the timing parameters (try reducing the totals to 2660x1450). Beyond that, you'll have to disable CrossFire for some games to work properly.


I have a p9x79 pro board with two 290s in it and no bridges as its done inside the motherboard I can seem to only get around 100 when ghosting comes in and 110 gives me green lines is there no way for me to get round this is it something to do with the crossfire or limitation of my particular monitor? Not sure what the crossfire is on my motherboard anyway tbh (dual single etc.)! Tried a 24 awg lead and reduce timings in the amd settings. Just not sure if I am basically stuck with this or if there is any more options?



Thats what I am on right now I can choose 96 if I want a perfect screen and 102 is slight ghosting and 107 is medium ghosting (band on right hand side of flickery gradients) . Thanks!


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

So I disabled mantle in BF4 and I was able to run bf4 again, I did notice that I had some flickering in the background @110Hz.

Today I'll try again with 96Hz.

Thx


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enilder*
> 
> 1) Can anyone recommend a stand that can easily be pivoted? The HP stand is nice but they are discontinued AFAIK.
> 
> 2) For the single input model, can you use hdmi to DVI cable? I am switching monitors and my laptop doesn't have DVI dual link output...Going to use it for Wii U.


i'm in for the stand question again. the ones in the OP all seem absurd.. do you guys know which dell monitor has the one working with the Dp2710? or can someone buy any dell and make a pivot plate to mount both ways ?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> I have a p9x79 pro board with two 290s in it and no bridges as its done inside the motherboard I can seem to only get around 100 when ghosting comes in and 110 gives me green lines is there no way for me to get round this is it something to do with the crossfire or limitation of my particular monitor? Not sure what the crossfire is on my motherboard anyway tbh (dual single etc.)! Tried a 24 awg lead and reduce timings in the amd settings. Just not sure if I am basically stuck with this or if there is any more options?


The green lines indicate a limitation with your monitor. The R9 290-series cards have a newer CrossFire architecture that doesn't need bridges, so it shouldn't have issues at higher pixel clocks.


----------



## dpl2007

Thanks OK well I can live with 107hz then with some ghosting it is playable and 96 on other games when its pretty then I guess thanks.


----------



## caenlen

I am going to send my monitor back to south korea because it has a cluster of about 50+ dead pixels, very annoying... how much is shipping expected to cost me? My zip code is 46222 - Indiana... I tried doing it on UPS but it wouldn't let me finish unless I knew dream-sellers UPS account number, anyone here know from experience?


----------



## scatlm

Did your pixels just go bad all of the sudden?

...

Hey, is this the correct AC adapter fro the Qnix?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110884979882?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Mine just finished going bad.. I'm back to 24" 1080p Samsung in the meantime... jeez, 1080p looks archaic now.

Also, Ic an't believe I'm the only one with a abd AC adapter. I'd figure more people would have issues with them unless I just happen to get a really ****ty one.


----------



## latprod

Just a quick update, i broke my gloss qnix and ordered a new matte one. And to be honest, it looks amazing too. The AG coating does not seem aggressive at all, colors look great etc. I was pretty worried but worth every penny. I couldn't live without the amazing korean monitors!


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Yes the one you picked looks fine or there is this one below that is a copy of the CWT in the U.S.A
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa


Hey, I went with this^ power brick. It's without a question the correct one, right? Just want to be 100%


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Just a quick update, i broke my gloss qnix and ordered a new matte one. And to be honest, it looks amazing too. The AG coating does not seem aggressive at all, colors look great etc. I was pretty worried but worth every penny. I couldn't live without the amazing korean monitors!


That's nice to hear. I'm astonished at how crappy my old 24" Samsung looks (TN, !080p) ... It looks archaic, frankly. The colors look dull and the 1080p just looks terrible now....lol

I guess the old sayings are true. You don't know what you're missing 'till you experience it. And you don't appreciate what you have, until you lose it. Cheesy but true in this case.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolwatpear*
> 
> Hey I was wondering if someone could tell me how I could run 1080p off my onboard from my motherboard's hdmi, since they don't output 1440p, with the qnix. would something like this work:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406455990&sr=8-1&keywords=dvi-d+to+hdmi
> 
> ?
> 
> I want to sell my graphics card for the time being, but don't know if this solution would work.


Do you have a multi-input or DVI only version?

If DVI only then:
No, I don't believe this will work. First off, it looks like a single link cable, and the DVI only requires dual link. I haven't done the HDMI testing for this monitor, but I can tell you that DisplayPort adapters have to be the powered version, not passive like this cable.

If you have the multi-input version, you might be able to go hdmi to hdmi. Even though it's only 1080p. I've run my QNIX at 1080 before, with no issues. (Using DL DVI).


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> That's nice to hear. I'm astonished at how crappy my old 24" Samsung looks (TN, !080p) ... It looks archaic, frankly. The colors look dull and the 1080p just looks terrible now....lol
> 
> I guess the old sayings are true. You don't know what you're missing 'till you experience it. And you don't appreciate what you have, until you lose it. Cheesy but true in this case.


Yeah that's very true. Just borrow a samsung 590 27" 1080p while waiting for my new qnix... wow. What a piece of ****, and at the exact same price!


----------



## rjeftw

So I finally decided to overclock my X-Star...and the QNIX driver wouldn't let me update it because it wasn't digitally signed... Anyone any input here? On windows 8.1 pro.

Thanks!


----------



## Enilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i'm in for the stand question again. the ones in the OP all seem absurd.. do you guys know which dell monitor has the one working with the Dp2710? or can someone buy any dell and make a pivot plate to mount both ways ?


Nobody is out there to save us.









I really like to be able to pivot without tearing things down. If it means to purchase a 3 27" capable monitor stand, I will consider it as well (although I prefer not to).


----------



## darthdirty

ok so noob questions, does my EVGA 4gb 680 have the duel link DVI and this monitor needs and could i use 2 monitors on the same card?

Also is it worth the extra $$$ to get the pixel perfect one? Also are the cheapest places just to look at Ebay?? thanx for everyones time and help.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enilder*
> 
> Nobody is out there to save us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like to be able to pivot without tearing things down. If it means to purchase a 3 27" capable monitor stand, I will consider it as well (although I prefer not to).


i think any dell stand will work but you will need a transition plate to be able to align holes from both monitor and the stand,. there is a universal plate for 5$ i saw on ebay. i am not in a rush.. i'm buying this in october so i've time to research


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> ok so noob questions, does my EVGA 4gb 680 have the duel link DVI and this monitor needs and could i use 2 monitors on the same card?
> 
> Also is it worth the extra $$$ to get the pixel perfect one? Also are the cheapest places just to look at Ebay?? thanx for everyones time and help.


Yes, Dual-Link DVI works on the 680. No, it's not worth it to buy pixel perfect unless it also covers backlight bleed (rare, but seen it before). Even then, there are stories of it having it anyway. Problem is, it's never worth it to return because of international shipping costs. So personally my philosophy is just spend as little as possible, there is a low chance of a couple dead pixels, and a high chance of backlight bleed. Might even want to look into refurb, sometimes they can be had for $200 or so.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjeftw*
> 
> So I finally decided to overclock my X-Star...and the QNIX driver wouldn't let me update it because it wasn't digitally signed... Anyone any input here? On windows 8.1 pro.
> 
> Thanks!


you have to start up without digital signature authorization if you want to install the qnix.inf. Google how to startup that way, because it is anything but intuitive lol.


----------



## rjeftw

I'll check this out once I get off work tonight and see if I can get it working!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> you have to start up without digital signature authorization if you want to install the qnix.inf. Google how to startup that way, because it is anything but intuitive lol.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> ok so noob questions, does my EVGA 4gb 680 have the duel link DVI and this monitor needs and could i use 2 monitors on the same card?
> 
> Also is it worth the extra $$$ to get the pixel perfect one? Also are the cheapest places just to look at Ebay?? thanx for everyones time and help.


Yes, yes, no, probably-but I prefer Amazon for customer service reasons.


----------



## Tankstah

Hey everyone, just joined the club. I am using Color Sustainer to calibrate my monitor and love the way it looks. However, now I am having issues with overclocking. I can overclock to 96 Hz without any issues. However, trying to go to 110 or 120 puts a bunch of strange faded purple stripes all up and down the right side of my monitor. What can I do about this? Did I just get unlucky and my monitor can't handle higher than 96 Hz? Thanks in advance!


----------



## rjeftw

Well got mine set up. Attempted the frameskipping test and I get occasional errors on 120, 110, 96, 85, even 75... But not artifacts and it seems really smooth in BF4 with everything maxed... Any input?


----------



## scott62185

New to this forum and I'm a noob (fair warning)







Can anyone tell me why the various prices on this monitor from seller AccessoriesWhole on ebay?
http://stores.ebay.com/AccessoriesWhole/QNIX-/_i.html?rt=nc&_fsub=5967204015&_sid=1033343855&_sticky=1&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14&_sop=2&_sc=1
They all look the same yet the vary in price from ~$265 to ~$375. I can see that some even higher priced ones are "perfect pixel" but the ones in the aforementioned price range seem to be all the same?
So, I am not a gamer or a professional photo guy, I just want the best monitor I can get a good price, so with that in mind, am I fine getting one of the lower priced ones?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tankstah*
> 
> Hey everyone, just joined the club. I am using Color Sustainer to calibrate my monitor and love the way it looks. However, now I am having issues with overclocking. I can overclock to 96 Hz without any issues. However, trying to go to 110 or 120 puts a bunch of strange faded purple stripes all up and down the right side of my monitor. What can I do about this? Did I just get unlucky and my monitor can't handle higher than 96 Hz? Thanks in advance!


Sounds like my one here it is at 107hz:


Don't think we can get rid of this in assuming it's ghosting 96 is OK on my one. What gfx card you on?


----------



## Tankstah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Sounds like my one here it is at 107hz:
> 
> 
> Don't think we can get rid of this in assuming it's ghosting 96 is OK on my one. What gfx card you on?


That looks exactly like mine. I'm running an msi r9 290x


----------



## Ramzinho

guys i've the x-star dp2710 which color correction file should i use?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> guys i've the x-star dp2710 which color correction file should i use?


I tried a bunch of the ones listed in the op until I found the one I liked. Which I cannot remember which one that was and I'm away from home all day.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> guys i've the x-star dp2710 which color correction file should i use?


Every monitor is different. Try and see which one you prefer (since you don't have a hardware sensor to measure colors). X-Star = Qnix panel, so Qnix profiles will be suitable and close.


----------



## rikai

So, i bought one of these displays a few months back, but then this happened...



So now i'm toying with the idea of replacing the panel myself, considering the repair cost, according to dream-seller, will be $170-190 from the manufacturer and whatever the cost of shipping to Korea and back is (i can only assume a fairly significant amount)...

Does anyone happen to know where i might obtain a replacement panel for a reasonable price?


----------



## latprod

So.. got my new qnix today, matte this time after my glossy broke.. and this goes straight to 120hz with a few timing alterations. no artifacts, confirmed...
Just very slight BLB and no dead pixels. Did I just get extremely lucky here? i could not get to 120 on my previous one, it was 110 max.
Are a lot of others out there getting 120 as well?


----------



## jchon930

how can you tell if your monitor can get to 120hz or 100hz max? can't the monitor be ruined if you try running it too high or does it just look odd when the monitor can't handle it?


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchon930*
> 
> how can you tell if your monitor can get to 120hz or 100hz max? can't the monitor be ruined if you try running it too high or does it just look odd when the monitor can't handle it?


You just keep upping the overclock till the screen starts looking odd, or artifacts etc... In most cases these monitors start ghosting with some purple/pinkish haze and then beyond that they start getting neon green lines all over the place.


----------



## jchon930

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> You just keep upping the overclock till the screen starts looking odd, or artifacts etc... In most cases these monitors start ghosting with some purple/pinkish haze and then beyond that they start getting neon green lines all over the place.


ahh i see. but the monitor itself won't get damaged by testing it at 100+hz?


----------



## The Storm

Mine has been 100+hz for at least a year if not a little more if that tells you anything.


----------



## latprod

Yeah, what they said. My last monitor struggled at 120hz and got green horizontal lines no matter how i tweaked the timings. But now it's just BOOM! straight to 120hz, no problems whatsoever. Gotta say, I'm pretty stoked!









EDIT: The issue of whether the monitor is actually damaged by OC'ing it has been discussed time and time again in this thread, and so far it seems that the results point to no. I had my last one OC'ed to 110 at all times for 8 months before I took it upon myself to kill the thing with my own stupidity.







It ran faultlessly up to that point. The only thing is you will see some image retention but it goes away.


----------



## Proxish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> *Guess I should finally expand a bit on the topic of getting monitors to match in terms of color.*
> 
> We have several types of display calibration. Let's talk about grayscale calibration first.
> 
> This graph shows the measurements of Red, Green, and Blue luminance obtained on 100 grayscale levels on the Qnix left uncalibrated:
> [Qnix\Default_RGB_Levels]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These grayscale levels are produced by mixing the Red, Green, and Blue primaries. These primaries are shown on the following CIE diagram:
> [Qnix\Default_Gamut_Primaries]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This CIE diagram is a normalized diagram. We take color values from a 3D space and normalize them by making the 3rd axis (Y) represent luminance, and leave only x and y (chromaticity coordinates) representing the colors themselves. This allows us to map these values to a 2D space.
> 
> The R,G,B primaries have the same chromaticity coordinates for all values of R,G, and B respectively. R64 and R255 both have the same *hue* of the color Red, just different luminance. A purely Red color emitted by the display should have the same wavelength / chromaticity but different brightness for different values of Red, given that the backlight is a perfect white light source (more on what *white* is later).
> 
> The black triangle you see in that CIE diagram is the sRGB colorspace. The colorspace is the range of colors according to which content is produced. The sRGB colorspace is that which all (99.99%?) consumer content we currently have available is produced in.
> 
> This colorspace specifies the chromaticity coordinates / wavelengths of R,G,B required to hit a whitepoint Color Temperature) of 6500K (Daylight), when these primaries are mixed in equal quantities (luminance). The grayscale levels should all be of 6500K color temperature as well, and grays such as 75,75,75 or 231,231,231 (near white) should have these primaries mixed in equal amounts (luminance) as well.
> 
> Let's assume we are dealing with a monitor that has its primaries perfectly matching those required by the sRGB colorspace. Grayscale calibration ensures that all grays are at 6500K, with no error. Red, Green, and Blue primaries are also accurate, thus the secondaries Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and all other colors are perfectly accurate within the sRGB colorspace. No issues, perfect monitor that can display all colors accurately for sRGB content.
> 
> How are these primaries produced? The chromaticity coordinates / wavelengths of these primaries are a function of the backlight used (CCFL, White LED, RGB LED, GB-LED, Blue LED with Quantum Dots, etc...) and the filter material used in the pixels themselves, and what wavelengths they allow to pass through. You would need a perfectly white light source @ 6500K for the backlight, plus perfect filter material for the pixels that allows R, G, and B to match the wavelengths specified by the sRGB colorspace (or any colorspace, for that matter). It's hard enough to do that without factoring in time, as the backlight will drift over time, and so will the pixels, meaning that to ship out a monitor that's perfect in terms of primaries is pretty much an impossible feat currently. Even professional monitors costing in the thousands of dollars should be regularly calibrated for color-critical work.
> 
> We are thus dealing with monitors with inaccurate primaries to begin with:
> [Qnix\Default_Primaries_Secondaries]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Observe the DeltaE values. These represent the degree of error. <1 is an invisible error. Above 3 is a clearly visible error.
> 
> Grayscale calibration *CANNOT* correct the primaries. Correcting the primaries entails mixing in other primaries. For example, if Red is off, R255 (G and B are naturally set to 0 by default) needs to be corrected to R255,G23,B21 for example to now match Red as specified in the sRGB colorspace. What then varies is the luminance, which can be controlled by changing the backlight brightness. The sRGB colorspace does not factor in luminance, as we have discussed before, but the standard which governs sRGB content also specifies certain luminance values that are suitable for color-critical work, e.g. 120 cd/m2. We shall see soon why grayscale calibration cannot tell the system that instead of asking for R255,G0,B0, it should ask for R255,G23,B21 so that R255 is actually displayed in accordance with the sRGB colorspace.
> 
> To prove this point graphically...Qnix @ Default vs. Calibrated:
> 
> RGB Levels:
> [Qnix\Default_RGB_Levels]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Qnix\Calibrated_RGB_Levels]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grayscale measures:
> [Qnix\Default_Measures]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Qnix\Calibrated_Measures]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Color Temperature:
> [Qnix\Default_Color_Temperature]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Qnix\Calibrated_Color_Temperature]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma:
> [Qnix\Default_Gamma1]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Qnix\Calibrated_Gamma1]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Qnix\Default_Gamma2]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Qnix\Calibrated_Gamma2]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How exactly is the luminance of each grayscale level determined? Gamma curve, output = input^gamma. Since the input is in the range 0-->1 (corresponding to 0-->255 for 8-bit color channels), a gamma greater than 1 shifts the curve down from the linear curve output = input. Target gamma is 2.2. Gamma correction.
> 
> Now, on to the CIE diagram and the measures for the Primaries and Secondaries:
> 
> CIE Diagram:
> [Qnix\Default_Gamut]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Qnix\Calibrated_Gamut]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Primaries and Secondaries:
> [Qnix\Default_Primaries_Secondaries]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Qnix\Calibrated_Primaries_Secondaries]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By changing the whitepoint, the saturations align, but they are still not accurate as the primaries that produce these saturations are not accurate as well. Each of these primaries is equally inaccurate across the entire range of grayscales and saturations, therefore the saturations will still line up to produce 6500K white / grayscales at R=G=B (max, 255 in the case of white).
> 
> Why cannot grayscale calibration correct the primaries?
> [Qnix\Calibrated_Curves]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at these curves. Each is an individual curve. The Red curve says: map an input of 129 to an output of 121.67. This means that when the color R129,Gj,Bk is requested, the output produced is R121.67, GJ, BK, so that we actually get a value of R129,Gj,Bk according to the sRGB standard. The input-output curve of Red operates independently of Green and Blue. Regardless of the values j and k, and their corresponding mappings (in the Green and Blue curves) J and K respectively, 129 will ALWAYS map to 121.67.
> 
> Take the simplest case of wanting to keep the blackpoint the same, since we can only make the blackpoint more accurate by raising luminance for the R,G,B components used to produce black (0 by default, we cannot go below 0). To make Red accurate, R255,G0,B0 --> R255,G23,B21; however, we would want to keep G0 --> G0 and B0 --> B0 and that we cannot do with three separate, independent curves which can only affect colors together when this color has all three components R,G,B.
> 
> Obviously, this limitation applies to all other colors, except grayscale. Given that we have inaccurate primaries, mix those primaries in a fashion such that in mixture, the grayscale produced is accurate. Have 10% less Red than is necessary? Make a Red I/O curve such that all Red values are raised to compensate for the 10% difference.
> 
> This wraps up, in a nutshell, why we call this type of calibration "Grayscale calibration".
> 
> Windows supports these types of curves. So, applications such as Color Sustainer (cool dev made this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) load these profiles using functions provided with Windows. For calibrations further than grayscale, you would require the application to be color-aware. Games are not color-aware, but applications such as Photoshop are, and these applications allow gamut mapping in order to correct the primaries themselves, and not only the grayscale.
> 
> When using multiple monitors, there is a clear issue when using applications that are not color-aware: Different monitors, especially different models using different panels, have different gamuts. Here is the Qnix vs. my ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED, even when calibrated:
> 
> [Qnix\Calibrated_Gamut]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [ViewSonic\Calibrated_Gamut]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whites will be pretty close, so will grayscale, but the other colors are not. There will be a difference in saturation, where, let's say, Yellow is more saturated on the Qnix vs. the ViewSonic. In fact, all colors will be more saturated on the Qnix, given that it covers 99.7% of the sRGB colorspace but is actually ~117% the volume of the sRGB gamut. On the other hand, the ViewSonic covers ~95% and its volume barely exceeds the volume of the sRGB gamut.
> 
> *For best results*, you would need to buy a hardware sensor to calibrate all displays to the same standard. Do not rely on profiles available on the internet if you're doing color-critical work, *especially* on multiple displays since each monitor is different. At the very least, monitors from the same model (just different samples) might have gamuts that are close enough to be indiscernible, but will have different gamma response and thus will require grayscale calibration. At the most, each might require different gamut mapping in order to display sRGB content properly.
> 
> Even when using a single monitor, the mere fact that its gamut will not perfect match the sRGB colorspace and the grayscale will be off means that you would require a hardware sensor for the best results.
> 
> My recommendations, as of 2014-07-24? The Spyder4Express (budget), the Colormunki Display (reverse-engineered to work with 3rd-party applications, medium budget), and the i1 Display Pro.
> 
> Spyder4Express: similar sensor in a cheaper package than the Pro, Elite packages, works with 3rd-party applications such as ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI. Lacks an ambient sensor, though.
> 
> Colormunki Display & i1DP: Similar (if not identical) hardware. X-Rite quotes a difference in measurement speed, although that might be their software at play (really, really unsure; there might actually be a hardware difference, as I might have read once that the Colormunki is somewhat slower even on ArgyllCMS). The i1DP has an SDK available and 3rd-party applications support it without reverse-engineered drivers.
> 
> Paid 3rd-party software such as CalMAN will only support the i1DP. Open-source 3rd-party software such as ArgyllCMS (and dispcalGUI and HCFR which work based on the ArgyllCMS library) support both sensors, albeit with a reverse-engineered driver for the Colormunki Display.
> 
> Feel free to add this to the OP, *wntrsnowg*.


Thank you so much for getting back to me and the detailed explanation. I really appreciate the time you took to do that.
It will take me a few days to find the time to go through everything, but I will definitely post back and let you know how I get on.


----------



## 3m3k

got mine single input Qnix yesterday and either I am blind or there is 0 bad pixels








shipping was fast . 4 business days to Dublin, Ireland.
So far no info about the customs - it was cleared but not sure if I will need to pay anything or not...

Got it up to 96Hz yesterday no issues but when tried 120 got a nasty green things displayed. i guess i'll need to try a different DVI cable.

Quick question about OC validation.
The UFO link just needs to be opened and left alone to get the screen validated?
Asking as i saw some multi input screens validated as 120 - frame skipping ?

how do I check if my one does not skip frames?
heard some people use camera for it


----------



## SmackHisFace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> got mine single input Qnix yesterday and either I am blind or there is 0 bad pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shipping was fast . 4 business days to Dublin, Ireland.
> So far no info about the customs - it was cleared but not sure if I will need to pay anything or not...
> 
> Got it up to 96Hz yesterday no issues but when tried 120 got a nasty green things displayed. i guess i'll need to try a different DVI cable.
> 
> Quick question about OC validation.
> The UFO link just needs to be opened and left alone to get the screen validated?
> Asking as i saw some multi input screens validated as 120 - frame skipping ?
> 
> how do I check if my one does not skip frames?
> heard some people use camera for it


This link http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping For a more detailed explanation visit the first page of this thread under the overclocking section.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> got mine single input Qnix yesterday and either I am blind or there is 0 bad pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shipping was fast . 4 business days to Dublin, Ireland.
> So far no info about the customs - it was cleared but not sure if I will need to pay anything or not...
> 
> Got it up to 96Hz yesterday no issues but when tried 120 got a nasty green things displayed. i guess i'll need to try a different DVI cable.
> 
> Quick question about OC validation.
> The UFO link just needs to be opened and left alone to get the screen validated?
> Asking as i saw some multi input screens validated as 120 - frame skipping ?
> 
> how do I check if my one does not skip frames?
> heard some people use camera for it


Nice. 0 dead pixels is pretty common. QNIX QX2710 still uses A- grade panels which are only 1 step down from grade A panels that are marketed by LG/Samsung.


----------



## The Source

So I think I've settled on this Catleap http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-Monitor-/111399828170?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27aca unless someone can persuade me to go with a qnix?

Is Greensum a good seller? I'm looking for a seller that will deal with an issue if there is one and will be willing to lower the declared value so I don't have to pay out the bum for import fees. I am located in Canada if that matters.


----------



## the9quad

I definitely think next time I am just gonna spend the extra $100 and get an overlord. You can still get a glossy and the stands look leagues better and do portrait. I am totally happy with my QNIX, but in the future that is what I am doing, cuz these stands blow and its impossible to still get glossies.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Nice. 0 dead pixels is pretty common. QNIX QX2710 still uses A- grade panels which are only 1 step down from grade A panels that are marketed by LG/Samsung.


No solid proof that I know of concerning the panels. I have doubts when the Qnix measures better than most branded monitors using similar panels and not costing an arm and a leg (ala pro NEC / Eizo monitors). Based on my Qnix measurements, too.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I definitely think next time I am just gonna spend the extra $100 and get an overlord. You can still get a glossy and the stands look leagues better and do portrait. I am totally happy with my QNIX, but in the future that is what I am doing, cuz these stands blow and its impossible to still get glossies.


Stand is replaceable. IPS panels have scan line brightening that becomes stronger when overclocking to 120Hz (or high refresh rates in general). Watch out, and use ToastyX's DeLiner program to see if you can handle the side effect. It isn't something correctable in games like using color profiles on the Qnix to overcome the gamma shift (while keeping the rest of the Qnix overclocking side effects there).

I tried Deliner and I think the effect would annoy me, so I forgot about grabbing a Catleap 2B and selling my Qnix.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> So I think I've settled on this Catleap http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-Monitor-/111399828170?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27aca unless someone can persuade me to go with a qnix?


Here are the PMs between me and ToastyX concerning my question about the Catleap overclocking side effects vs the Qnix's:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> Hey there ToastyX,
> 
> I have a question concerning the Catleap 2B.
> 
> It's recently received a price cut on eBay, given that the ROG Swift is out at a similar price to what the Catleap 2B used to go for.
> 
> I have a matte Qnix QX2710 that I run at 110Hz in games. It's calibrated with a hardware sensor (i1DP) at both 60Hz and 110Hz, and I use 60Hz on the desktop in order to avoid the overclocking side effects that come with 110Hz: darkening in the top right corner (noticeable on the desktop but not in games), image retention. The gamma shift that occurs across the whole panel is basically corrected for using the color profile I made at 110Hz. I made Color Sustainer primarily for the purpose of automatically switching color profiles as the refresh rate changes, and I'm satisfied from that regard.
> 
> For games that do not ignore the system color profile loaded into Windows, the Qnix looks fantastic in games, with no gamma shift. However, some games do ignore the color profile and thus the game naturally looks darker.
> 
> I'm familiar with the idea that the Catleap has no such side effects when overclocked to 120Hz. Colors barely differ if any, and there is no image retention. However, what worries me is that some users mention "scan line brightening" and it seems to be an unavoidable side effect that can't be corrected for like the side effects of overclocking the Qnix are partially handled via a color profile.
> 
> I remember reading one of your responses regarding the matter, but could you please explain what the issue is exactly? What does it look like exactly, how noticeable is it, does it bother, can it be corrected for, and does it happen across all IPS monitors / Catleap 2Bs / etc... when overclocked to 120Hz?
> 
> I would appreciate your professional feedback regarding this matter.
> 
> Thank you in advance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> You can run the Deliner program on a monitor without the lines to see what the lines look like: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Deliner
> 
> Deliner can counteract the lines on the desktop, but not in full screen games. I've seen the lines to some degree on many LG IPS panels, even at 60 Hz on some panels. Many people don't even notice them, but they get stronger at higher refresh rates. The strength of the lines can also vary slightly from panel to panel.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Stand is replaceable. IPS panels have scan line brightening that becomes stronger when overclocking to 120Hz (or high refresh rates in general). Watch out, and use ToastyX's DeLiner program to see if you can handle the side effect. It isn't something correctable in games like using color profiles on the Qnix to overcome the gamma shift (while keeping the rest of the Qnix overclocking side effects there).
> 
> I tried Deliner and I think the effect would annoy me, so I forgot about grabbing a Catleap 2B and selling my Qnix.
> Here are the PMs between me and ToastyX concerning my question about the Catleap overclocking side effects vs the Qnix's:


Thanks for the response. So colour representation wise, they are the same? It's just for gaming.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> Thanks for the response. So colour representation wise, they are the same? It's just for gaming.


They should be pretty similar. The PLS panel will have a higher contrast ratio, slightly oversaturated colors (due to the larger gamut), less variance between samples. Some PLS panels come with slight yellow tints which are corrected using a color a profile. No idea about the tints on the IPS variants, although they might be largely similar.

I wouldn't worry much about the difference in colour representation since both should be pretty accurate out-of-the-box, but for color temperature, and probably gamma, the PLS might be slightly ahead, save for slight oversaturation. Color profiles will work in the majority of games so you could try out the ones available for the monitor you choose and you should be good to go.

If you want to go further, a hardware sensor such as the Spyder4Express, Colormunki Display, or i1 Display Pro would give you pretty accurate results on your monitor sample.

I hope you're fully aware of the side effects of overclocking the Qnix?


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> They should be pretty similar. The PLS panel will have a higher contrast ratio, slightly oversaturated colors (due to the larger gamut), less variance between samples. Some PLS panels come with slight yellow tints which are corrected using a color a profile. No idea about the tints on the IPS variants, although they might be largely similar.
> 
> I wouldn't worry much about the difference in colour representation since both should be pretty accurate out-of-the-box, but for color temperature, and probably gamma, the PLS might be slightly ahead, save for slight oversaturation. Color profiles will work in the majority of games so you could try out the ones available for the monitor you choose and you should be good to go.
> 
> If you want to go further, a hardware sensor such as the Spyder4Express, Colormunki Display, or i1 Display Pro would give you pretty accurate results on your monitor sample.
> 
> I hope you're fully aware of the side effects of overclocking the Qnix?


I read the response posted further up the page, so yes? I don't really care much about OC ing. I'm fine with 60Hz. Anything above that is icing. Thanks for the response.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> So I think I've settled on this Catleap http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-Monitor-/111399828170?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27aca unless someone can persuade me to go with a qnix?
> 
> Is Greensum a good seller? I'm looking for a seller that will deal with an issue if there is one and will be willing to lower the declared value so I don't have to pay out the bum for import fees. I am located in Canada if that matters.


I'd go for it! Especially if you want a Glossy panel ... not all Catleaps are Glossy as someone previously suggested. Below is my conversation w/Greensum bit of language barrier But they were timely with answer's









Dear green-sum, Sent Date: Jul-27-14 12:42:38 PDT

I could not find anywhere in the description if it was a True Glossy [NOT Tempered Glass] or a Matte finish???
Thanks Tom

Dear ttomcatv, Jul-28-14 02:02:58 PDT

Hello, ttomcatv

First of all, we appreciate your interest in our product.

The item you are looking for is Glossy screen. We apologize that we weren't being specific.

Hope this answer would be helpful,
Thank you.

Best regards, - green-sum

Dear green-sum, Jul-28-14 07:46:58 PDT

Is this model a "Glossy" screen or not? ...

- ttomcatv

Dear ttomcatv, Jul-29-14 01:56:50 PDT

Hello, ttomcatv

The item is "Glossy screen"..

Hope this answer would be helpful,
Thank you.

Best regards, - green-sum

Dear green-sum, Jul-29-14 09:23:39 PDT

Very good, BUT how come it doesn't say Glossy in the description?

- ttomcatv

Dear ttomcatv,

Hello, ttomcatv

The information on the description was given directly from the manufacturer. If the description did not indicate panel type, it means that the manufacturer did not give the information to us. Since you notified us about the missing information, we will fix the description soon.

If you have any question about other items from our store, please let us know.
Thank you.

Best regards, - green-sum

Dear green-sum,

Very good, and thanks for your timely help and attention to this matter! However I like to know exactly what I'm getting when ordering a component of this importance. Therefore I'm very hesitant to order a Catleap 2B OC until the description states and is confirmed a Glossy panel, NOT a Matte or even Tempered Glass.
Sincerely Tom

- ttomcatv

====================================================

If you do order *[THIS]* model (price has already gone up a bit) AND you want a Glossy I'd at least get it in writing (e-mail) like I did above, that way if it is not up to Glossy standards you'll have eBay buyer protection to back you up









ALSO please post some pics with the screen turned off and confirm it is not a "Tempered Glass" model









*EDIT:* Sent Date: Jul-31-14 00:20:09 PDT
Green-sum's Professionalism is coming through!








They have corrected their listing to say "Glossy Panel" under "Specifications"









Dear ttomcatv,

Hello, ttomcatv
First of all, we would like to say thank you for your interest.

Our item description page is now fixed.
In "Specifications" it states that the panel of item is "LG S-IPS Panel LED *Glossy panel."

Hope the answer above helps you. We are looking forward to have a good business chance with you.
Thank you.

Best regards, - green-sum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Stand is replaceable. IPS panels have scan line brightening that becomes stronger when overclocking to 120Hz (or high refresh rates in general). Watch out, and use ToastyX's DeLiner program to see if you can handle the side effect. It isn't something correctable in games like using color profiles on the Qnix to overcome the gamma shift (while keeping the rest of the Qnix overclocking side effects there).
> 
> I tried Deliner and I think the effect would annoy me, so I forgot about grabbing a Catleap 2B and selling my Qnix.
> Here are the PMs between me and ToastyX concerning my question about the Catleap overclocking side effects vs the Qnix's:


Nice Info! +R ... Didn't know this and gives me pause as to weather I now want a true Glossy Cat2B anymore


----------



## yasamoka

I would have loved to try a Glossy Catleap 2B, but then realized that where my PC is, even semi-glossy Matte is not keeping away some of the reflections (and the screen is not in front of the sun!). Plus, the scan line brightening would probably annoy me, so it's a risk for me as I'd be selling my Qnix which I'm otherwise very, very content with.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I would have loved to try a Glossy Catleap 2B, but then realized that where my PC is, even semi-glossy Matte is not keeping away some of the reflections (and the screen is not in front of the sun!). Plus, the scan line brightening would probably annoy me, so it's a risk for me as I'd be selling my Qnix which I'm otherwise very, very content with.


Does yours have any BLB? And have you done anything to alleviate it?

TY


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Does yours have any BLB? And have you done anything to alleviate it?
> 
> TY


No backlight bleed, just some yellowing starting at the bottom center and spreading a bit to the right due to chassis pressure on the panel. Used to be noticeable in the dark, but now I can't notice it. Seems like moving the Qnix around relieved the bottom center and reduced / removed the yellow bleed.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Did your pixels just go bad all of the sudden?
> 
> ...
> 
> Hey, is this the correct AC adapter fro the Qnix?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/110884979882?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> Mine just finished going bad.. I'm back to 24" 1080p Samsung in the meantime... jeez, 1080p looks archaic now.
> 
> Also, Ic an't believe I'm the only one with a abd AC adapter. I'd figure more people would have issues with them unless I just happen to get a really ****ty one.


My Qnix broke a few days ago and I thought it was the AC Adapter, but it is probably the PCB. I did end up buying that adapter you linked and it shipped from New York to California within 2 days.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No backlight bleed, just some yellowing starting at the bottom center and spreading a bit to the right due to chassis pressure on the panel. Used to be noticeable in the dark, but now I can't notice it. Seems like moving the Qnix around relieved the bottom center and reduced / removed the yellow bleed.


Glad to hear. My BLB has gotten better and better. I also think it's from moving it around.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> My Qnix broke a few days ago and I thought it was the AC Adapter, but it is probably the PCB. I did end up buying that adapter you linked and it shipped from New York to California within 2 days.


Man, you're scaring me. My AC adapter was really finicky since day one. The AC end of the connection to the adapter would lose contact. I had to hold the cable against the adapter REALLY hard. And this W/E it just died on me... and it started acting really weird. Now it doesn't matter how hard I hold the cable against the adapter, as soon as I plug the DC end to the monitor *poof* the adapter loses power.... my new adapter is due to arrive tomorrow... *fingers crossed*

Thankfully I'm well within PayPal's 45-day return policy in case the seller tries to pull a fast one on me. But it would still sucvk to have to ship it back, etc.

Can you tell me how your monitor broke exactly? Including symptoms, etc.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Proxish*


Sure, take your time. The subject is a bit hard to wrap one's head around so ask questions if you're confused about something in particular.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Glad to hear. My BLB has gotten better and better. I also think it's from moving it around.
> Man, you're scaring me. My AC adapter was really finicky since day one. The AC end of the connection to the adapter would lose contact. I had to hold the cable against the adapter REALLY hard. And this W/E it just died on me... and it started acting really weird. Now it doesn't matter how hard I hold the cable against the adapter, as soon as I plug the DC end to the monitor *poof* the adapter loses power.... my new adapter is due to arrive tomorrow... *fingers crossed*
> 
> Thankfully I'm well within PayPal's 45-day return policy in case the seller tries to pull a fast one on me. But it would still sucvk to have to ship it back, etc.
> 
> Can you tell me how your monitor broke exactly? Including symptoms, etc.


I never had problems with my old adapter (aside from getting super hot), but my monitor ran like a champ for almost a year. It was OC'ed to 120Hz when I had my 7950 and then 108Hz when I switched to my R9 290.

Last week, I had a power outage and when power came back a few minutes later, my monitor started fading/blinking (see video below) and it eventually stopped outputting any picture. It's most likely an electrical surge, but my power strip has surge protection and my other monitor and rig were not affected.

Currently, my Qnix refuses to show anything aside from the backlighting turning on for a few seconds when I plug in the AC adapter. My computer cannot detect the monitor at all and I have had no success in figuring out what went wrong. So I may have to resort to buying a new PCB from an Ebay seller.

Things I have tried:

New AC Adapter
AMD 14.4, 14.6, 14.7 drivers (clean installations)
Safe Mode
System Restore to an earlier date prior to the power outage


----------



## scatlm

Oh yeah, I remember your earlier posts now. Is a new PCB even cost effective considering that a new Qnix is about $300? You'd get a abrnd new monitor and you don't have to bother repairing, and worry about any what if's, you know


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Oh yeah, I remember your earlier posts now. Is a new PCB even cost effective considering that a new Qnix is about $300? You'd get a abrnd new monitor and you don't have to bother repairing, and worry about any what if's, you know


I thought about it, but I'm spending a total of $80 (if a PCB is ~$65) versus $300. Having opened up the monitor and taking everything apart, there are only 4 parts. I know for sure 3 of the 4 are working as intended, so why spend the extra $220 if I don't have to?


The outer casing (not broken)
Samsung PLS panel (not broken)
PCB for panel, I/O, speakers (????)
PCB for buttons (not broken)


----------



## scatlm

Oh if it's only $80, then yeah. Did you have any BLB on yours? Now that you've disassembled it, perhaps you can alleviate some of it. Kill two birds with one stone, so to speak


----------



## kouki monster

Has anyone had any problems with the monitor just turning off randomly (mostly when gaming)? I had it with my crossover every now and then and i started to think the monitor was dying so i bought a Qnix but now the same thing happened again.

The screen just goes blank but the led is still on. Starting to think it has something to do with my graphics card.

Has anyone had similar problems?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kouki monster*
> 
> Has anyone had any problems with the monitor just turning off randomly (mostly when gaming)? I had it with my crossover every now and then and i started to think the monitor was dying so i bought a Qnix but now the same thing happened again.
> 
> The screen just goes blank but the led is still on. Starting to think it has something to do with my graphics card.
> 
> Has anyone had similar problems?


Nah, that's probably either a Dvi port problem or a Dvi cable problem. Are you using the cable that was provided with the crossover? Try switching ports and cable and see how it goes.

What do you have to do to get it to start working again? If the driver isn't crashing it's probably not the card.


----------



## kouki monster

When you say DVI port problem are you talking on the monitor side or graphics card. I have used the cables that were supplied with each monitor (crossover cable for that and the Qnix cable for the Qnix)

With the crossover i would have to shut the pc down and then start it back up and that would *usually* solve the problem. This time on the qnix i had to shut down and unplug the monitor power cable for 10-15 sec and then start it back up.


----------



## maxlingz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I'd go for it! Especially if you want a Glossy panel ... not all Catleaps are Glossy as someone previously suggested. Below is my conversation w/Greensum bit of language barrier But they were timely with answer's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dear green-sum, Sent Date: Jul-27-14 12:42:38 PDT
> 
> I could not find anywhere in the description if it was a True Glossy [NOT Tempered Glass] or a Matte finish???
> Thanks Tom
> 
> Dear ttomcatv, Jul-28-14 02:02:58 PDT
> 
> Hello, ttomcatv
> 
> First of all, we appreciate your interest in our product.
> 
> The item you are looking for is Glossy screen. We apologize that we weren't being specific.
> 
> Hope this answer would be helpful,
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards, - green-sum
> 
> Dear green-sum, Jul-28-14 07:46:58 PDT
> 
> Is this model a "Glossy" screen or not? ...
> 
> - ttomcatv
> 
> Dear ttomcatv, Jul-29-14 01:56:50 PDT
> 
> Hello, ttomcatv
> 
> The item is "Glossy screen"..
> 
> Hope this answer would be helpful,
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards, - green-sum
> 
> Dear green-sum, Jul-29-14 09:23:39 PDT
> 
> Very good, BUT how come it doesn't say Glossy in the description?
> 
> - ttomcatv
> 
> Dear ttomcatv,
> 
> Hello, ttomcatv
> 
> The information on the description was given directly from the manufacturer. If the description did not indicate panel type, it means that the manufacturer did not give the information to us. Since you notified us about the missing information, we will fix the description soon.
> 
> If you have any question about other items from our store, please let us know.
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards, - green-sum
> 
> Dear green-sum,
> 
> Very good, and thanks for your timely help and attention to this matter! However I like to know exactly what I'm getting when ordering a component of this importance. Therefore I'm very hesitant to order a Catleap 2B OC until the description states and is confirmed a Glossy panel, NOT a Matte or even Tempered Glass.
> Sincerely Tom
> 
> - ttomcatv
> 
> ====================================================
> 
> If you do order *[THIS]* model (price has already gone up a bit) AND you want a Glossy I'd at least get it in writing (e-mail) like I did above, that way if it is not up to Glossy standards you'll have eBay buyer protection to back you up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ALSO please post some pics with the screen turned off and confirm it is not a "Tempered Glass" model
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice Info! +R ... Didn't know this and gives me pause as to weather I now want a true Glossy Cat2B anymore


Just setup my Catleap 2B , I am pretty sure that it is glossy. How do you determine glossy vs glass? There is no BLB or any dead pixels, so I guess I am lucky in that respect. As for overclocking, it easily goes up to 110-115 Hz on automatic timings using Nvidia's control panel. However, 120 Hz did require me to use manual timings, but it is working correctly without the presence of scanlines, which indicate an instability in the monitor overclock. Also, there have been some people stating that there is a buzz to the monitor at higher refresh rates due to a choke vibrating, but I don't have that issue, so not sure if it's been fixed since then. Definitely recommend this monitor!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kouki monster*
> 
> With the crossover i would have to shut the pc down and then start it back up and that would *usually* solve the problem.


That means it's not the monitor. It's on your PC's side.
Quote:


> This time on the qnix i had to shut down and unplug the monitor power cable for 10-15 sec and then start it back up.


Given the first scenario, this is very likely caused by the graphics card no longer detecting a monitor then detecting one again when you plug it back in, and something starts working.

Check your GPU, PSU, RAM, etc...


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Oh if it's only $80, then yeah. Did you have any BLB on yours? Now that you've disassembled it, perhaps you can alleviate some of it. Kill two birds with one stone, so to speak


Almost no BLB for my monitor, there's slightly some on the top, but I actually never see it unless I'm looking at a pitch-black scene in a movie.


----------



## Rankre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No backlight bleed, just some yellowing starting at the bottom center and spreading a bit to the right due to chassis pressure on the panel. Used to be noticeable in the dark, but now I can't notice it. Seems like moving the Qnix around relieved the bottom center and reduced / removed the yellow bleed.


Is the yellow tint noticeable by eye in a dark room? For me it seems I can only notice any discoloring (around the corners) if I take a shot of my monitor without flash on using my camera in the dark (while the monitor is displaying all black). If I turn off all my lights at night in my room, I can't notice any BLB or yellow tint. Hmm


----------



## scatlm

I'm back in businesss, baby. Oh yeah.

Just when I was getting used to a 1080p TN panel again... I get slapped in the face by PLS @ 1440p goodness


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxlingz*
> 
> Just setup my Catleap 2B , I am pretty sure that it is glossy. How do you determine glossy vs glass? There is no BLB or any dead pixels, so I guess I am lucky in that respect. As for overclocking, it easily goes up to 110-115 Hz on automatic timings using Nvidia's control panel. However, 120 Hz did require me to use manual timings, but it is working correctly without the presence of scanlines, which indicate an instability in the monitor overclock. Also, there have been some people stating that there is a buzz to the monitor at higher refresh rates due to a choke vibrating, but I don't have that issue, so not sure if it's been fixed since then. Definitely recommend this monitor!


Nice! ... unless your familiar with (in person) glossy vs tempered glass it's not easy to distinguish between the 2








Disassembly is the surest way to confirm ... where you would see the tempered glass is affixed to bezel w/double sided tape (remove w/heat) .... Otherwise a glossy panel is slightly flexible on touch, where as glass is not!, AND glass will not scratch, where as a glossy can be damaged with too aggressive cleaning methods or handling









Take a high-res pic (no flash) monitor off, in an average lit room and sometimes I can tell just looking at it as glass can really give off some nasty reflections









Just an update to my earlier post *HERE* ... I got confirmation that Green-sum has corrected it's listing *HERE* to state/read "Glossy Panel" in it's "Description" heading, why they didn't put it in the title I don't know?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> My Qnix broke a few days ago and I thought it was the AC Adapter, but it is probably the PCB. I did end up buying that adapter you linked and it shipped from New York to California within 2 days.


Unfortunately ... we suspected this, let us know how you get on? ... and do a "laymen's" photo/video description if you can so many others in the future wouldn't hesitate to do this fairly uncomplicated fix









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> I'm back in businesss, baby. Oh yeah.
> Just when I was getting used to a 1080p TN panel again... I get slapped in the face by PLS @ 1440p goodness












*Edit:* Ohhhh ... Be on the lookout for another New release of the QNIX QX2710 ...
Slightly cheaper than the present PLS/single-input OC Evo II








Looks like it could be a re-worked True10 with a single-input (no-scalar) no frame drop? Overclock board ...
Maybe they learned a lesson with the True10?







...

"Quote" ...
QNIX QX2710 Super QHD! (They really need to start working on better naming schemes....)

-27" QHD
- Supports Virtual 4K
- Low Blue Light
- Light Flicker Protection
- "Supports Overclocking"
- *Dual-DVI x1* / Audio In x1
- *"Korean" AD-Board*

AND will it come in a *"Glossy"???* ... More details to come


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *Edit:* Ohhhh ... Be on the lookout for another New release of the QNIX QX2710 ...
> Slightly cheaper than the present PLS/single-input OC Evo II
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like it could be a re-worked True10 with a single-input (no-scalar) no frame drop? Overclock board ...
> Maybe they learned a lesson with the True10?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> "Quote" ...
> QNIX QX2710 Super QHD! (They really need to start working on better naming schemes....)
> 
> -27" QHD
> - Supports Virtual 4K
> - Low Blue Light
> - Light Flicker Protection
> - "Supports Overclocking"
> - *Dual-DVI x1* / Audio In x1
> - *"Korean" AD-Board*
> 
> AND will it come in a *"Glossy"???* ... More details to come


If it supports virtual 4k then it has a scaler and it will drop frames.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If it supports virtual 4k then it has a scaler and it will drop frames.


Yes, I asked my buddy that along with several other questions ... like what type of Panel is it?
Take it more as a precaution ... rather than anyone getting their hopes up for a true OC panel








And with the Catleap 2B OC price reduction, I think QNIX is going to feel some market pressure


----------



## bluedevil

Stuck on my wife's old Dell.....1280x800.....ick....I will be SOOOO glad when my GPU RMA comes back...


----------



## FermatOC

Is this monitor compatible with radeon hd 4870? Green-sum on ebay lists compatibility issues with some of the hd 5000 series cards but makes no mention of hd 4000 series cards.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey guys.. I have 2 QX2710LED's and the colors between the two are completely different. One is used that I got second hand and the other is from Amazon.

Any idea on how to fix it?

I applied color profiles and that helped but the colors are still off. One blue is much darker then the other one between monitors.


----------



## Plato

Got mine QX2710 today ordered from accessorieswhole without any pixel bull and I have zero death/stuck pixels







. The BLB is only minor and less than on my old monitor.
Upgraded from a 22" TN Samsung 1680x1050. The difference is so big (pun intended).

Been reading this thread for the last week and managed to OC it to 110Hz so far, 120Hz gives some artifacts/stripes. Gonna try some more tomorrow but I'm okay with 110Hz anyway.

So far I'm very happy with my purchase!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Hey guys.. I have 2 QX2710LED's and the colors between the two are completely different. One is used that I got second hand and the other is from Amazon.
> 
> Any idea on how to fix it?
> 
> I applied color profiles and that helped but the colors are still off. One blue is much darker then the other one between monitors.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/19670#post_22612393

@*wntrsnowg*! OP!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Unfortunately ... we suspected this, let us know how you get on? ... and do a "laymen's" photo/video description if you can so many others in the future wouldn't hesitate to do this fairly uncomplicated fix


Yeah I had to give the AC adapter a try first, but I'll try to get a new PCB somehow through an Ebay seller (I tried to contact a few of them yesterday). If I can't, maybe someone here can help me get one through an Ebay seller?

I can take photos/videos during the process, although the Youtube Videos from David Thomson (in the OP of this thread) are pretty thorough already.


----------



## Devotii

I'm sure this thread used to list total prices people paid after tax and customs? Or was that a different thread?

What price did anyone from the UK pay?, please break down how much you paid on ebay, customs/tax and handling fee, thanks!


----------



## bluedevil

Why am I thinking about downgrading from an R9 290 to a R9 280? Right now I can do a solid 92FPS in BF4 on high now with my 290


----------



## Kokin

Quick update on my situation: green-sum and accessorieswhole do not offer PCB replacement, but rather shipping the monitor back as a whole unit. Still waiting on a reply from storewithstory, hopefully I can purchase a PCB from him despite not buying my Qnix from Ebay.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Why am I thinking about downgrading from an R9 290 to a R9 280? Right now I can do a solid 92FPS in BF4 on high now with my 290


If you're not overclocking your monitor, I can understand the reasoning behind this, but you're asking to lose quite a bit of performance. Even my old 7950 (R9 280 equiv) clocking to 1300/1700 could not match a stock R9 290.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Quick update on my situation: green-sum and accessorieswhole do not offer PCB replacement, but rather shipping the monitor back as a whole unit. Still waiting on a reply from storewithstory, hopefully I can purchase a PCB from him despite not buying my Qnix from Ebay.
> If you're not overclocking your monitor, I can understand the reasoning behind this, but you're asking to lose quite a bit of performance. Even my old 7950 clocking to 1300/1700 could not match a stock R9 290.


Just seen a deal for a decently cooled 280 and thought about it. Probably gonna stick with the 290, since it's paid for and all.


----------



## yasamoka

Why in the world would you downgrade?


----------



## theilya

Had this monitor for about 7 months and today out of nowhere I got this purple line at right side....

anyone have ideas what it is?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> Had this monitor for about 7 months and today out of nowhere I got this purple line at right side....
> 
> anyone have ideas what it is?


More details...are you overclocked? Or is this at stock 60Hz?


----------



## theilya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> More details...are you overclocked? Or is this at stock 60Hz?


Been running at 120hz for 7 months with no problem.

When I switch back to 60hz line is still there

EDIT: Fixed it by slightly tapping back of the monitor.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FermatOC*
> 
> Is this monitor compatible with radeon hd 4870?


Yes, as long as it has dual-link DVI, but you won't be able to overclock past 330 MHz pixel clock (around 85 Hz with reduced totals).


----------



## Plato

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> Been running at 120hz for 7 months with no problem.
> 
> When I switch back to 60hz line is still there
> 
> EDIT: Fixed it by slightly tapping back of the monitor.


Lucky you!
Still sounds kinda fragile to me. Maybe a bad contact?


----------



## dante`afk

can anyone recommend a good table or wall mount for 2 of the qnix2710?

just ordered a second one


----------



## Tyhuynh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> can anyone recommend a good table or wall mount for 2 of the qnix2710?
> 
> just ordered a second one


Check out navepoint on ebay. High quality desk stands lowest price I seen. Free shipping!


----------



## skahzreg

i recently bought a qnix monitor and have multiple issues after following the overclocking guide for amd
when i am playing dota 2, the fps gets stuck at 48 very often (96/2 aka half of what im trying to get) every now and then it goes to 96fps then drops after shortly
i dont have this problem playing other games
league of legends doesnt look smooth though
i do have vsync turned off too
also when i set cru to 120hz i get green lines everywhere
ive tried to figure out what the issue is for both these problems and ive gotten no where




ive updated my video card drivers to the latest drivers
accidentally installed the drivers for nvidia but then used patcher linked below for amd(am i supposed to uninstall it)
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

used cru and here is what it looks like


sorry for being sloppy its just given me a bit of stress


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skahzreg*
> 
> sorry for being sloppy


That's the best organized sloppy post I've ever seen









First off, that game probably just doesn't like 96Hz. If you set up a custom res for 90Hz it will probably be fine.

Secondly, the green lines when attempting 120Hz are "normal"... I tried 2 Qnix from Ecomade Arena on Amazon (accessorieswhole on eBay) and neither could quite get to 120Hz and I knew how to push timings to the absolute lowest possible. The green lines increase as the pixel clock goes higher. Lower timings decrease the pixel clock. One other possible remedy could be a higher quality DVI cable. The ones that come with the Qnix in my experience are not very good at all.

And last off, your screenshot of the Manual timings you have set in Cru seem quite loose (high). The only values that matter *at all* are the vertical and horizontal totals.

Depending on where you got your Qnix you'll have a different PCB in your monitor. So I can't tell you exactly what timings to use. I've seen 2 distinctly different PCBs in them, one does 120Hz easily and has higher timings, one tops out before 120Hz and uses lower timings.

Obviously, CRU isn't the most convenient way to test this... if your monitor gets stuck and starts doing r/g/b test screens don't worry about it, it's also "normal". There's a lot of ways to get it to go away and return to normal. I think I usually just unplugged the monitor, plugged it into other DVI slot. reboot, stuff like that. These sorts of things don't hurt the monitor. They die years later when solder gets brittle and cracks, cheap capacitors die etc.

Anyway these were the tightest timings I could get to work with my Qnixs:


I think technically it should be 2632 (should be divisible by 8). The Vertical total you can add +1 to until the total refresh rate is exactly what you want (120.000Hz instead of 120.002)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skahzreg*
> 
> i recently bought a qnix monitor and have multiple issues after following the overclocking guide for amd
> when i am playing dota 2, the fps gets stuck at 48 very often (96/2 aka half of what im trying to get) every now and then it goes to 96fps then drops after shortly
> i dont have this problem playing other games
> league of legends doesnt look smooth though
> i do have vsync turned off too
> also when i set cru to 120hz i get green lines everywhere
> ive tried to figure out what the issue is for both these problems and ive gotten no where
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ive updated my video card drivers to the latest drivers
> accidentally installed the drivers for nvidia but then used patcher linked below for amd(am i supposed to uninstall it)
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> used cru and here is what it looks like
> 
> 
> sorry for being sloppy its just given me a bit of stress


I agree with electro ... that's a nicely/comprehensive laid out troubleshooting post! Rarely seen @ OCN








You might try reading and posting in Lawson's thread *HERE* if he is around he is a wiz w/AMD cards








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That's the best organized sloppy post I've ever seen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Depending on where you got your Qnix you'll have a different PCB in your monitor.* So I can't tell you exactly what timings to use. I've seen 2 distinctly different PCBs in them, one does 120Hz easily and has higher timings, one tops out before 120Hz and uses lower timings.


Hey electro, this is the 1st I've heard of this ... could you expand on your sources or link them?
I want to read more about this ... thanks









*EDIT:* Hmmm, In your reply below VVVV you seemed to miss my question highlighted in BOLD type


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I agree with electro ... that's a nicely/comprehensive laid out troubleshooting post! Rarely seen @ OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might try reading and posting in Lawson's thread *HERE* if he is around he is a wiz w/AMD cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey electro, this is the 1st I've heard of this ... could you expand on your sources or link them?
> I want to read more about this ... thanks


I've found the Korean resellers to be very forthcoming and communicative, tbh. Sending them an email will likely not get you much inside info, but calling them during dinner time and surprising the crap out of them works well. If you guys have trouble with an eBay seller over one of these monitors I suggest you call them on the phone. You will find your seller's number on the Paypal info.

You'll also get an address which you can cross reference with a shipping address if you start buying monitors from different places... or... if you are slightly unscrupulous and just want information on who's who: you can make a few orders requesting UPS for the shipper and then get full shipper's address off the My UPS website. I did this several times and then cancelled the orders because I just plain got cold feet. Then I started noticing some of the sellers are selling more places than just eBay. I didn't do that a lot but I did it enough to find out there wasn't any big story there.

The only dirt I found was that the sellers all scam the shipping companies periodically with previously damaged monitors they claim insurance on. The other stuff has all been thoroughly documented in this thread... like the multi-input monitor "overclocking support" nonsense. Only single input monitors can overclock (except maybe that 32" VA)


----------



## electro2u

Maybe it was Dreamseller and Ecomade arena? It's been a while now lol. I have to go back and look now... when I get back home.

But I didn't mean to suggest there was any way to know ahead of time what you're going to get. That's why I prefer the Catleap for a gaming monitor purchase. Less mystery


----------



## sip74

Hey guys, first post so please be gentle.









Looking to buy a qx2710 Evolution II as from what i have read it's a beast when it comes to downsampling. Probably a stupid question but if anyone in the know can confirm it would be greatly appreciated.

On Amazon i see these 2 links.

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00CI3EQA2

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US

Is it safe to assume it's exactly the same monitor bar Perfect Pixel. Just want confirmation to put my mind at ease before i bite the bullet.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Loving the monitor still... Been so good to me. I was bored tonight so I decided to "mod" my speakers and monitor lmao.. I need to get some double sided black tape. ran outa the stuff I had but works pretty good so far. Now all I gotta do is get my computer room downstairs finished and I can post some pimp computer room shiz.


----------



## Param1320

What about the future driver updates, do the overclock stay stable when Nvdia releases new drivers or we have to overclock the monitor again? ﻿


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Param1320*
> 
> What about the future driver updates, do the overclock stay stable when Nvdia releases new drivers or we have to overclock the monitor again? ﻿


if you do a clean install, which shoild be done, then the oc needs to be done again. regarding the stability question, sure why should it be unstable


----------



## Param1320

Thanks for your help. I just built my first pc so this was helpful. Cheers


----------



## Param1320

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> if you do a clean install, which shoild be done, then the oc needs to be done again. regarding the stability question, sure why should it be unstable


*Thanks for your help. I just built my first pc so this was helpful. Cheers*


----------



## Neckbone76

Thanks for these forums, they have helped me a lot getting my new Qnix QX2710 Evolution II up and running. So for all the help these forums have given me, I'm going to give back with what I can. I admit I have not read all 1980+ pages so some of this could be hidden somewhere else so I apologize if it is. The new Qnix manufacturer website I have found is

http://www.qnix.biz/

The one at the first page didn't work for me under relevant manufacturer information tab.

This is another Qnix manufacturer website with physical address, phone number and a contact person. It was useful for me when I had to fill out the FCC form 740 for FedEx before they would deliver it.

http://ksgktrade.en.ec21.com/

and Lastly is for anyone who had to fill out the FCC form 740 for FedEx before they would deliver the Qnix monitor, in my case anyways before I fought with them.

First this monitor when being imported should be listed as HTS code 8528.51.0000 for U.S. customs.

8528.51.0000, Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (HTSUS), which provides for Monitors and projectors, not incorporating television reception apparatus&#8230;Other monitors: Of a kind solely or principally used in an automatic data processing system of heading 8471. The rate of duty will be Free.

Sometimes (as in my case) you get a clueless customs agent who puts something ridiculous for the import tariff code which will A.) give customs and the shipper reason to try to collect an import tax from you, and B.) have to fill out FCC form 740.

Basically FCC form 740 is needed on equipment being imported that can produce a harmful radio frequency. Televisions with built in tuners, computers with built in tuners and things of that nature fall into this category. Computer monitors that are incapable of accepting NTSC or PAL signals or displaying any video signal and are required to be plugged into a computer to work or display said signals do not need FCC paperwork of any type to be imported into the U.S. if they are just computer monitors.

But if you are stuck filling out this paperwork here is some information for you to help you out.

Part 1

Box 1 Date - Obvious enough
Box 2 Entry number - Leave blank
Box 3 Port of Entry - Leave blank unless you are U.S. then it will 99% be Alaska.
Box 4 Harmonized Tariff Number - Leave blank or you can be a pain and fill in 8528.51.0000, do at your own risk because you are basically telling the Customs official how to do their job. How I got
around this in box 9.
Box 5 Quantity - How many did you buy and have shipped, if it was 1 then 1, 2 - 2 etc..
Box 6 Device Model/Type name or # - Qnix QX2710 Evolution II (Or whatever model you bought)
Box 7 Trade Name - Computer Monitor
Box 8 FCC ID - leave blank
Box 9 Description of Equipment - Samsung PLS computer monitor. NOT a television and NOT a computer, should have an HTS code of 8528.51.0000
Box 10 Manufacturer's Name and Address - Kyoung Seong Global Korea, 41-1 Nocheom-gil ilsandon, g-gu Goyang-gi Gyeongil, -do 410-380 Korea www.ksgktrade.en.ec21.com
Phone #82-31-3118688
Box 11 Consignee's Name and Address - Your information
Box 12 Importer's Name and Address - leave blank (I put this as my information the first time I filled it out and FedEx emailed me that the shipper (Stylebang) put me as the Cosignee and not Importer.
Box 13 Printed Name - yours
Box 14 Signature and Date - Yours and today's date

Part II - have to check one of these, (only boxes 1,2,3 or 7 will allow you to import the item.).

for this part I chose box 7, was the safest choice.

I searched everywhere I could find to figure out how to fill FCC 740 out correctly for a Korean computer monitor and got no hits in any search I did. My day job is not a trader so this was more difficult for me at least than it was buying my last car. Between trying to figure out why they heck I had to fill it out in the first place, what this involved for me, and what it meant for me in the future it took me almost 12 hours from start to finish getting this thing correct to send to FedEx and U.S. Customs. I know many of you didn't have to put up with the non-sense, and I hope most of you never have to, but in case you do I thought I would post it here for easy access in the future.

In the end I got my awesome monitor and am very pleased with it. And I had no import taxes and no other fees from FedEx. I hope this helps anyone else out in the future.

Have a good one and party on..

Neckbone


----------



## JAMEX

When i try and install the qnix driver it says "windows encountered a problem installing the driver software for your device"
"windows found a driver software for your device but encountered an error while attempting to install it"
QX2710
"The third party INF does not contain digital signature infomation"

I had all of the drivers working and i restarted my computer one time because punkbuster was kicking me and i came back on the computer 120hz was working on my desktop but not in game.

Wondering if someone could help me out, cheers.


----------



## skahzreg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That's the best organized sloppy post I've ever seen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, that game probably just doesn't like 96Hz. If you set up a custom res for 90Hz it will probably be fine.
> 
> Secondly, the green lines when attempting 120Hz are "normal"... I tried 2 Qnix from Ecomade Arena on Amazon (accessorieswhole on eBay) and neither could quite get to 120Hz and I knew how to push timings to the absolute lowest possible. The green lines increase as the pixel clock goes higher. Lower timings decrease the pixel clock. One other possible remedy could be a higher quality DVI cable. The ones that come with the Qnix in my experience are not very good at all.
> 
> And last off, your screenshot of the Manual timings you have set in Cru seem quite loose (high). The only values that matter *at all* are the vertical and horizontal totals.
> 
> Depending on where you got your Qnix you'll have a different PCB in your monitor. So I can't tell you exactly what timings to use. I've seen 2 distinctly different PCBs in them, one does 120Hz easily and has higher timings, one tops out before 120Hz and uses lower timings.
> 
> Obviously, CRU isn't the most convenient way to test this... if your monitor gets stuck and starts doing r/g/b test screens don't worry about it, it's also "normal". There's a lot of ways to get it to go away and return to normal. I think I usually just unplugged the monitor, plugged it into other DVI slot. reboot, stuff like that. These sorts of things don't hurt the monitor. They die years later when solder gets brittle and cracks, cheap capacitors die etc.
> 
> Anyway these were the tightest timings I could get to work with my Qnixs:
> 
> 
> I think technically it should be 2632 (should be divisible by 8). The Vertical total you can add +1 to until the total refresh rate is exactly what you want (120.000Hz instead of 120.002)


so i've tried your settings and my monitor was just completely black,
i ended up just going back to 96hz
there are still times where the game does not look smooth at all but the fps is fine
it is rare for dota2 or cs:go to run completely smooth
the fps is always the same whether the game looks smooth or not so i believe the issue is the monitor or me installing something incorrectly?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I agree with electro ... that's a nicely/comprehensive laid out troubleshooting post! Rarely seen @ OCN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might try reading and posting in Lawson's thread *HERE* if he is around he is a wiz w/AMD cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey electro, this is the 1st I've heard of this ... could you expand on your sources or link them?
> I want to read more about this ... thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:* Hmmm, In your reply below VVVV you seemed to miss my question highlighted in BOLD type


i will definitely ask for assistance over there, thanks!

edit- damn, looks like he doesn't have time to help out anymore


----------



## electro2u

K so if those timings don't work, try higher timings. Since the Qnix varies I can't tell you exactly what timings to use. And like I said, try the game at 90hz instead of 96hz. These monitors require some tinkering sometimes.


----------



## DiceAir

I used to be able to do 120hz but now I can't . when I do 120hz now I get green lines etc etc so what can it be. BTW I upgraded to new motherboard and CPU.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I used to be able to do 120hz but now I can't . when I do 120hz now I get green lines etc etc so what can it be. BTW I upgraded to new motherboard and CPU.


Reports of green lines in this thread. Hope this helps.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Reports of green lines in this thread. Hope this helps.


So seems my monitor is not stable at 120hz. maybe I overlooked it last time. I will stick to 96Hz for now as it's smooth enough. don't want to get used to something and having issues later on and then will have to get used to lower hz.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So seems my monitor is not stable at 120hz. maybe I overlooked it last time. I will stick to 96Hz for now as it's smooth enough. don't want to get used to something and having issues later on and then will have to get used to lower hz.


I'm sticking with 96 as well. Not due to any jnstability but because the QNIX power brick gets ridiculously hot when I set my refresh at 110.


----------



## skahzreg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> K so if those timings don't work, try higher timings. Since the Qnix varies I can't tell you exactly what timings to use. And like I said, try the game at 90hz instead of 96hz. These monitors require some tinkering sometimes.


trying 90 but the problem persists,
its really random, sometimes its not smooth other times it is so im trying to identify what the problem is and it happens on more than 1 game
is it a gfx setting or something with my monitor?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121117252582?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

this is the one i bought, i also have a radeon 7950


----------



## lola33

I've seen a lot of forums to buy a new monitor because this is my first qnix monitor. I was going to buy qx2710 then I found qx320qhd is on sale here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=131212408728&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT#ht_27499wt_914
it seem to be a good price now. I'm going to order it tomorrow. Very excited to see it!


----------



## Andriko

Was looking at this specific monitor
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/140932730742?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20d03ecf76&_uhb=1
Which shows a 6ms response time, I was also looking at different sellers who were selling the same monitor but the specs showed it having an 8ms response time.

Just wanted to know if there was any real difference or if they are all just a specific response time.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lola33*
> 
> I've seen a lot of forums to buy a new monitor because this is my first qnix monitor. I was going to buy qx2710 then I found qx320qhd is on sale here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=131212408728&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT#ht_27499wt_914
> it seem to be a good price now. I'm going to order it tomorrow. Very excited to see it!


You're jumping the gun a bit. That monitor doesn't overclock and might possibly be nowhere near the Qnix QX2710 in terms of color accuracy, contrast ratio, glow, viewing angles, and most importantly input lag, as the True10 model shows. Also, 32" is too large for these monitors and the glow will wreck you if you decide to be closer than 2 feet to the monitor.

No information means you'd be wiser to go for the 27" QX2710 single-input that overclocks and has no input lag.

Be sure to read the OP.


----------



## Kokin

Well it seems like none of the Ebay sellers are able to sell me just the PCB.

Anyone know where I can get a replacement PCB aside from ipsledmonitors.com? Otherwise, I may just have to save up for another Qnix.









Edit: Similarly, if anyone here has a Qnix/X-Star with a broken panel and is willing to sell me the PCB, please PM me.


----------



## Nina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theilya*
> 
> Had this monitor for about 7 months and today out of nowhere I got this purple line at right side....
> 
> anyone have ideas what it is?


i think PBC board is broken. i asked one of my friend who knows well about monitor he thinks it's because of panel.


----------



## Nina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FermatOC*
> 
> Is this monitor compatible with radeon hd 4870? Green-sum on ebay lists compatibility issues with some of the hd 5000 series cards but makes no mention of hd 4000 series cards.


i found hd 4670 some of monitor. but not 4800..


----------



## dante`afk

I got my first qnix from green-sum on ebay.

looking to buy a second one now from accessorieswhole since he sells them 50$ cheaper.

can anyone who ordered from him report of anything and if he got 120hz on theirs?


----------



## biermacht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Well it seems like none of the Ebay sellers are able to sell me just the PCB.
> 
> Anyone know where I can get a replacement PCB aside from ipsledmonitors.com? Otherwise, I may just have to save up for another Qnix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Similarly, if anyone here has a Qnix/X-Star with a broken panel and is willing to sell me the PCB, please PM me.


I'm in the same boat. I'm currently in contact with Bruce (storewithstory) and he's making it sound like he can't get any PCBs. Told me to contact him again in few days. Looks like the only option is ipsledmonitors, but after shipping and tax it's $150 for me. Then this from seller (Product is sold as is with no warranty or exchange policy. Please consider before purchase.) is making me think twice. Thinking about biting the bullet and just buying a new monitor.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> I never had problems with my old adapter (aside from getting super hot), but my monitor ran like a champ for almost a year. It was OC'ed to 120Hz when I had my 7950 and then 108Hz when I switched to my R9 290.
> 
> Last week, I had a power outage and when power came back a few minutes later, my monitor started fading/blinking (see video below) and it eventually stopped outputting any picture. It's most likely an electrical surge, but my power strip has surge protection and my other monitor and rig were not affected.
> 
> Currently, my Qnix refuses to show anything aside from the backlighting turning on for a few seconds when I plug in the AC adapter. My computer cannot detect the monitor at all and I have had no success in figuring out what went wrong. So I may have to resort to buying a new PCB from an Ebay seller.
> 
> Things I have tried:
> New AC Adapter
> AMD 14.4, 14.6, 14.7 drivers (clean installations)
> Safe Mode
> System Restore to an earlier date prior to the power outage


Bit behind but gutted to hear about this.
I had the exact same issue and ended up sourcing a second hand PCB by complete pot luck that should be arriving tomorrow.

I've seen this issue a few times now, posted here and on other sites.
Is it me or are these PCB's a bit on the flakey side, or am I overreacting a bit!?!
We have thousands of monitors where I work ranging from low end tat to high end iMac displays.
I can't remember the last time I saw a PCB failure on a display.

Anyway, hope you sort this out.


----------



## The Source

I'm looking to downsample on this QNIX I just received and automatic timings are only getting me to 2880 x 1620. Does anyone have any sources or setting to get higher resolutions on this display. I'm only at 60Hz for now. I'd like 3200 x 1800 and 3840 x 2160 resloution settings. Seems like my 1200p DELL was easier than this to downsample on.


----------



## Wyn10

Just bought the non pixel-perfect DP2710LED myself from Dream-seller: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330932578190



For Ontario Canada, I paid 50 bucks in duty fees, it was shipped through fedex. I asked Dream about duty fee's, it would've costed another 40 for a chance of none.




Oc's to 120hz first thing. There is no bleed or bad pixels, awesome monitor for the price.

I think the next thing on my list is a bigger desk, but atleast I have the screen space I want now. The X-Star on the right, Asus VS247H-P on the left.


----------



## The Source

Hah, I'm in Ontario as well and ended up paying 40 in duty fees. I should have saved my money and gotten the non pixel perfect version. Oh well.


----------



## Wyn10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> Hah, I'm in Ontario as well and ended up paying 40 in duty fees. I should have saved my money and gotten the non pixel perfect version. Oh well.


If we waited till next year we would've had free trade with South Korea







.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wyn10*
> 
> If we waited till next year we would've had free trade with South Korea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I would rather pay the fees and have everyone keep their jobs.


----------



## Wyn10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> I would rather pay the fees and have everyone keep their jobs.


I would be with you on that if everything wasn't marked up so high and didn't have taxes for online purchases. 13% blows.

Side question..does the stand the monitor comes with have to be screwed in or anything? Or does it just plop in?


----------



## Nina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andriko*
> 
> Was looking at this specific monitor
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2-ll-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Matt-Screen-/140932730742?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20d03ecf76&_uhb=1
> Which shows a 6ms response time, I was also looking at different sellers who were selling the same monitor but the specs showed it having an 8ms response time.
> 
> Just wanted to know if there was any real difference or if they are all just a specific response time.


I asked a seller, he told me 8ms is right response time, i don't know why listed 6ms. but 8 is correct response time. eventhough response time is faster, it depends on games or input lag.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Any of you go from a 120hz/144hz 1080p monitor to the 1440p monitors?
I need to search this thread later but am very interested in your experiences.

Also, any big difference on here : http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=qnix+27&N=-1&isNodeId=1

QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Matte Panel 27" PC Monitor DVI-D (Dual Link) $309
vs
QNIX QX2710 Super QHD Multi Matte Overclockable 27 inch 2560x1440 AH-VA LED Monitor $339

Is this just marketing or is there any actual difference to either? I see the Evo II for cheaper on amazon


----------



## kimck99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Any of you go from a 120hz/144hz 1080p monitor to the 1440p monitors?
> I need to search this thread later but am very interested in your experiences.
> 
> Also, any big difference on here : http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=qnix+27&N=-1&isNodeId=1
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Matte Panel 27" PC Monitor DVI-D (Dual Link) $309
> vs
> QNIX QX2710 Super QHD Multi Matte Overclockable 27 inch 2560x1440 AH-VA LED Monitor $339
> 
> Is this just marketing or is there any actual difference to either? I see the Evo II for cheaper on amazon


Apology in advance for hi-jacking your question but I too have a similar question about which item is the newest. I noticed in eBay in addition to the two listed above, there is a PERFECT PIXELS QX2710.

Are all these the same?

Thanks


----------



## Abadaman

Hello, so i followed David Thompson's guide trying to fix Backlight bleed on my Qnix, followed every step, dissassembled the monitor, put tape on the metal frame, reassembled everything and this is what i got after powering up the monitor. I don't know what went wrong, i tried to be really careful, not damaging anything. Instead of fix i got this, help would be really appreciated









Heres the picture


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wyn10*
> 
> I would be with you on that if everything wasn't marked up so high and didn't have taxes for online purchases. 13% blows.
> 
> Side question..does the stand the monitor comes with have to be screwed in or anything? Or does it just plop in?


I had the same question about the stand screwing in. There is a screw in the bottom of the stand part that is already attached to the monitor. You need to unscrew that, it has a little convenient flip out handle attached to it so no need for a screw driver. Unscrew that and use it to screw the base to the monitor portion of the stand.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Hello, so i followed David Thompson's guide trying to fix Backlight bleed on my Qnix, followed every step, dissassembled the monitor, put tape on the metal frame, reassembled everything and this is what i got after powering up the monitor. I don't know what went wrong, i tried to be really careful, not damaging anything. Instead of fix i got this, help would be really appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres the picture


These monitors scare me with how fragile they are. I'd like to attempt the tape fix but won't because of it.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimck99*
> 
> Apology in advance for hi-jacking your question but I too have a similar question about which item is the newest. I noticed in eBay in addition to the two listed above, there is a PERFECT PIXELS QX2710.
> 
> Are all these the same?
> 
> Thanks


No, if you want to overclock it you need the single DVI input version which is also the PLS panel. The multi input version doesn't overclock. From what I've seen most people stick with the PLS panel and not one of the PLS variants. Pixel perfect seems to be a bit of a scam of sorts. OP says it's not worth the extra cost because most people that don't choose this option still receive prefect monitors. I payed the extra 30 dollars for the pixel perfect version just because I didn't want to deal with any potential hassle, knowing my bad luck. Read over the original post on page one.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> No, if you want to overclock it you need the single DVI input version which is also the IPS panel. The multi input version doesn't overclock. From what I've seen most people stick with the IPS panel and not one of the IPS variants. Pixel perfect seems to be a bit of a scam of sorts. OP says it's not worth the extra cost because most people that don't choose this option still receive prefect monitors. I payed the extra 30 dollars for the pixel perfect version just because I didn't want to deal with any potential hassle, knowing my bad luck. Read over the original post on page one.


PLS, not IPS. True10 model is VA and is not a variant of IPS.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> PLS, not IPS. True10 model is VA and is not a variant of IPS.


Edited thanks. I knew it was too early in the morning for me to begin posting anything even remotely technical.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> Edited thanks. I knew it was too early in the morning for me to begin posting anything even remotely technical.


Hah that's fine. Good morning!


----------



## dante`afk

are these 2 screen the same?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362611435?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6


----------



## Descadent

no one is multi input. accessorieswholem is still cheaper on non multi input than greensum on the 2nd link btw and much better seller anyways


----------



## dante`afk

uh...accessorieswholem is multi input right?

Multi input = no overclock ?


----------



## Descadent

right but they have non multi input as well http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b


----------



## Nina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Any of you go from a 120hz/144hz 1080p monitor to the 1440p monitors?
> I need to search this thread later but am very interested in your experiences.
> 
> Also, any big difference on here : http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=qnix+27&N=-1&isNodeId=1
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Matte Panel 27" PC Monitor DVI-D (Dual Link) $309
> vs
> QNIX QX2710 Super QHD Multi Matte Overclockable 27 inch 2560x1440 AH-VA LED Monitor $339
> 
> Is this just marketing or is there any actual difference to either? I see the Evo II for cheaper on amazon


i think
QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Matte Panel 27" PC Monitor DVI-D (Dual Link)
is by pass monitor, response time 8ms, max 5 dead pixel

QNIX QX2710 Super QHD Multi Matte Overclockable 27 inch 2560x1440 AH-VA LED Monitor
is multi monitor, respons time is 4ms, max 3 dead pixel
and it is new model qx2710. it supports low blue lite and flicker free.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nina*
> 
> i think
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Matte Panel 27" PC Monitor DVI-D (Dual Link)
> is by pass monitor, response time 8ms,
> 
> QNIX QX2710 Super QHD Multi Matte Overclockable 27 inch 2560x1440 AH-VA LED Monitor
> is multi monitor, respons time is 4ms and it is new model qx2710. it supports low blue lite and flicker free.


The multi is not really overclockable, it skips frames. Avoid at all costs.


----------



## Nina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> right but they have non multi input as well http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b


multi is not overclockable?? but the ebay list said it's overclocking monitor.


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> no one is multi input. accessorieswholem is still cheaper on non multi input than greensum on the 2nd link btw and much better seller anyways


accessorieswholem is the better seller from them 2?


----------



## Descadent

multi cannot oc. all this is in the op and stated 500x in this thread regardless of what the listing says.
and personal preference here but I wouldn't buy from anyone other than accessorieswhole


----------



## dante`afk

good to know.

got to cancel the order on the multi input screen and get the dvi only then.

thx


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Also, any big difference on here : http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=qnix+27&N=-1&isNodeId=1
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Matte Panel 27" PC Monitor DVI-D (Dual Link) $309
> vs
> QNIX QX2710 Super QHD Multi Matte Overclockable 27 inch 2560x1440 AH-VA LED Monitor $339
> 
> Is this just marketing or is there any actual difference to either? I see the Evo II for cheaper on amazon
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kimck99*
> 
> Apology in advance for hi-jacking your question but I too have a similar question about which item is the newest. I noticed in eBay in addition to the two listed above, there is a PERFECT PIXELS QX2710.
> 
> Are all these the same? Thanks
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> are these 2 screen the same?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362611435?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nina*
> 
> multi is not overclockable?? but the ebay list said it's overclocking monitor.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> good to know.
> 
> got to cancel the order on the multi input screen and get the dvi only then.
> 
> thx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

*There is a huge difference between these two models!* as I've said before shame on QNIX for their naming conventions ... it is covered in the OP, but if you want a better explaination and "Links" for proof see my post *HERE*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Hello, so i followed David Thompson's guide trying to fix Backlight bleed on my Qnix, followed every step, dissassembled the monitor, put tape on the metal frame, reassembled everything and this is what i got after powering up the monitor. I don't know what went wrong, i tried to be really careful, not damaging anything. Instead of fix i got this, help would be really appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres the picture
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I agree these monitors can be very temperamental ... recently someone had the same vertical line your pic shows and he fixed it by tapping







on the back of the monitor ... this tells me you have a loose connection somewhere and you should disassemble and re-check all your connections, maybe even adding some insulated tape to prevent them jarring loose in the future









Also the "tape mod" is a jury rigged fix at best ... to truly fix the BLB it is all about straightening the frame, see Lawson's post(s) [B]HERE[/B] and check out his OP in his thread *HERE*

Hope that helps with addressing BLB


----------



## kimck99

*@TomcatV*

Thanks for the link to the comparison table. I have followed this thread from time to time and had ready many pages. But as many have experienced, this thread is quite long and it has been a challenge to sift through all the information.

Very much appreciated.


----------



## dante`afk

is there any way to remove the 'leg' where you mount the monitor stand on it?


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> The multi is not really overclockable, it skips frames. Avoid at all costs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *There is a huge difference between these two models!* as I've said before shame on QNIX for their naming conventions ... it is covered in the OP, but if you want a better explaination and "Links" for proof see my post *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree these monitors can be very temperamental ... recently someone had the same vertical line your pic shows and he fixed it by tapping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the back of the monitor ... this tells me you have a loose connection somewhere and you should disassemble and re-check all your connections, maybe even adding some insulated tape to prevent them jarring loose in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the "tape mod" is a jury rigged fix at best ... to truly fix the BLB it is all about straightening the frame, see Lawson's post(s) [B]HERE[/B] and check out his OP in his thread *HERE*
> 
> Hope that helps with addressing BLB


Thank you








Looks like I will be looking for the QX2710 Evo II with the single DVI dual link input!


----------



## renji1337

Is there any fix for the top right side of my monitor getting darker as I overclock it? this limits me to 85hz in rpgs and 96hz in fps games. 120hz has a noticeable darkness at the top right side only.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Finally decided to OC my Qnix tonight.

In Chrome the frameskip test reports 96hz as fluctuating between 48 and 53, Internet Explorer reports it as 96hz.

I wanted to figure this issue out before I find a camera as I don't have one available.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Finally decided to OC my Qnix tonight.
> 
> In Chrome the frameskip test reports 96hz as fluctuating between 48 and 53, Internet Explorer reports it as 96hz.
> 
> I wanted to figure this issue out before I find a camera as I don't have one available.


which model qnix did you buy and from where?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> which model qnix did you buy and from where?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc

Edit - More research shows this is the website incorrectly measuring the framerate when multiple monitors are connected.


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> is there any way to remove the 'leg' where you mount the monitor stand on it?


open her up. theres 4 screws holding the plastic down, once opened there are two screws holding the leg mount


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> open her up. theres 4 screws holding the plastic down, once opened there are two screws holding the leg mount


do you mean by that open up the complete back cover?


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> do you mean by that open up the complete back cover?


yes, there 4 screws are located at the bottom of the screen. Once slightly opened, just enough for you to see the screws, you will have enough room to remove the "leg" without having to remove any wires attached to the panel


----------



## Lumonaut

So I've been reading about this monitor for two days straight and considering a Korean panel for months and I purchased it finally yesterday. I'm fairly worried about a few things now, especially after finding this thread last night...

This is the one I purchased: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b

So the SE is actually lower quality?
This is my graphics card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125490
Will my graphics card even work? I'm having a really hard time understanding DVI-D vs. DVI-I and which way is compatible and which way isn't. I'm afraid my graphics card will not work as it is DVI-I.
And if I want to order a cable that is reliable and people seem to recommend that, can someone link me a good cable that would work for my graphics card to that monitor? I guess it may have to be a converter DVI-I to DVI-D?


----------



## dante`afk

thanks DemiseGR, will try that out later.

Lumonaut, this is the go-to qnix screen. nothing bad about it. afaik DVI-D stands for if the gpu has 2 dvi inputs. yours has only one so I would say it will not work, but im not 100%.


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lumonaut*
> 
> So I've been reading about this monitor for two days straight and considering a Korean panel for months and I purchased it finally yesterday. I'm fairly worried about a few things now, especially after finding this thread last night...
> 
> This is the one I purchased: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b
> 
> So the SE is actually lower quality?
> This is my graphics card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125490
> Will my graphics card even work? I'm having a really hard time understanding DVI-D vs. DVI-I and which way is compatible and which way isn't. I'm afraid my graphics card will not work as it is DVI-I.
> And if I want to order a cable that is reliable and people seem to recommend that, can someone link me a good cable that would work for my graphics card to that monitor? I guess it may have to be a converter DVI-I to DVI-D?


I'm not sure about the SE being lower quality.

DVI-I port you can fit both DVI-D and DVI-I cables so you are good to go.


----------



## dante`afk

these 2 models are the same right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6


----------



## Descadent

looks like they are same. both say II


----------



## Lumonaut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> these 2 models are the same right?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6


I was just asking something similar above, the difference is that one says SE and the other doesn't. I have no idea what the difference is though, I just ordered the SE version cause it was a little cheaper.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> these 2 models are the same right?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-WQHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lumonaut*
> 
> I was just asking something similar above, the difference is that one says SE and the other doesn't. I have no idea what the difference is though, I just ordered the SE version cause it was a little cheaper.
Click to expand...

Yes they are the same "overclockable" models with the same components ... except for the SE designation, which stands for "Second Edition". Korean Techs have confirmed, the SE models have less stringent quality control.
However this threads unofficial statistics have not proven that the SE panels perform any less than the standard models OR even there delivered quality is below that of the std models.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> looks like they are same. both say II


Don't be fooled by the "II" designation OR even the "Evolution II" designation as the multi-input (True10) models that are NOT overclockable without dropping frames, are also designated as "Evolution II" or "II" models ...
See *HERE*


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lumonaut*
> 
> I was just asking something similar above, the difference is that one says SE and the other doesn't. I have no idea what the difference is though, I just ordered the SE version cause it was a little cheaper.


I just read on another thread, response from the seller accesoirswhole that the only difference is that the SE could have 1-5 dead pixels while the non SE only 1-3


----------



## AdamHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> I just read on another thread, response from the seller accesoirswhole that the only difference is that the SE could have 1-5 dead pixels while the non SE only 1-3


Yes, that sounds like what I found during my research on the "SE" model. I bought an SE from Accessorieswhole, and did no not have a single dead pixel. Others have posted similar findings with the SE model. I say go for it. No regrets on mine. It was only $270 when I bought it. Killer deal.


----------



## BulletSponge

Very weird issue with my 2710. So far this has only occurred when in the Steam client. Once it happens the only way to fix the problem is to re-boot the PC by pressing the power button as I do in this video at the 10 second mark. Weird thing is, starting a shutdown clears up the screen as you can see here. has anyone else had this problem?




Edit-This is at 96Hz.


----------



## Lord Venom

Is there any workarounds (other than using Flash with hardware acceleration disabled) to getting HTML5 YouTube working without stutter?


----------



## lawson67

Hi guys i am sorry i have not been around much and able to help in this thread or in my updated thread....However yasamoka has asked if he could take over my thread which i am more than happy with and will be more than happy to add to the OP any updated info.....I am also sure that Tomcat will be over there helping alongside Yasamoka and it would also be nice to see Sparton F8 who has vast amounts of knowledge to add when ever he gets time to contribute..But for now in my thread its over to Yasamoka and Tomcat.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


----------



## Infinite Jest

How is the brightness distribution on these monitors and is there any variable tinting issues (I.e. Some areas have different color tint to whites)? Also, backlight bleeding? Thinking about getting one to replace a hodgepodge dual monitor setup I have ATM.


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> How is the brightness distribution on these monitors and is there any variable tinting issues (I.e. Some areas have different color tint to whites)? Also, backlight bleeding? Thinking about getting one to replace a hodgepodge dual monitor setup I have ATM.


i can comment on this in as second, just got my second qnix from accesoirswhole, the SE version and i am blown. it is much brighter than the non SE version which my first screen has which I got from greens-um.

the most interesting thing is, the brightness does not change if I overclock. the non SE gets much darker if overclocked.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> i can comment on this in as second, just got my second qnix from accesoirswhole, the SE version and i am blown. it is much brighter than the non SE version which my first screen has which I got from greens-um.
> 
> the most interesting thing is, the brightness does not change if I overclock. the non SE gets much darker if overclocked.


Alright, let me know, thanks! btw, is this the one you bought?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?customid=60d1bd063f0c433ebe14a6085cba43ad&pub=5574652453&afepn=5335869999&campid=5335869999&icep_id=117&ipn=icep&afepn=5335869999


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> i can comment on this in as second, just got my second qnix from accesoirswhole, the SE version and i am blown. it is much brighter than the non SE version which my first screen has which I got from greens-um.
> 
> the most interesting thing is, the brightness does not change if I overclock. the non SE gets much darker if overclocked.


that's just a difference between the panels that AW gets and greensum gets... telling yall... buy only from AW!!!


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Alright, let me know, thanks! btw, is this the one you bought?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?customid=60d1bd063f0c433ebe14a6085cba43ad&pub=5574652453&afepn=5335869999&campid=5335869999&icep_id=117&ipn=icep&afepn=5335869999


No, the multi true 10 doesn't overclock despite what the auction says. Read the OP.









I ended up paying 400 for this monitor which included pixel perfect (+30)and 40 for duty fees and I feel like it's about 100 more than it's worth.


----------



## dante`afk

infinite jest
no, thats multi input , i got the SE one.

Descadent
well, the one from green sum is from 2013, maybe accesoirswhole had the same panels back then.

just trying to mount a vesa 100 table mount into the screen.the screws do not even go the whole way through into the screen? jesus


----------



## Descadent

use shorter screws


----------



## dante`afk

gotta get some nuts from the diy store, these are the shortest that came with the package ;s


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> that's just a difference between the panels that AW gets and greensum gets... telling yall... buy only from AW!!!


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1JX0558&cm_re=qnix_27-_-9SIA4JH1JX0558-_-Product

you think this SE will be the same?


----------



## dante`afk

hulk
i think so they are the same

http://i.imgur.com/PQuYiwY.jpg

left one bought july 2014, right one bought may 2013. both on 120hz

the bezel fits much better on the new one, no bleeding, no dead pixels. also much brighter.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> hulk
> i think so they are the same
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/PQuYiwY.jpg
> 
> left one bought july 2014, right one bought may 2013. both on 120hz
> 
> the bezel fits much better on the new one, no bleeding, no dead pixels. also much brighter.


Jesus that's quite a difference. Makes me wonder about this panel I just bought from Greensum. Are they the same at 60Hz?


----------



## sski94

X-Star DP2710LED (Perfect Pixel) ordered from dream-seller on eBay arrived today in the UK!

Was £204.90 shipping included, luckily it didn't get stopped at customs so I did not have to pay tax which is incredible. Took 5 Working days to get here.

Couldn't find any dead pixels, haven't checked properly for backlight bleeding but dark images don't really have a problem in the lighting conditions I use my monitor in.

Removing the stand was a breeze, casing is pretty flimsy I would say but as long as you don't beat up your monitor, it should be fine.

Hoping nothing suddenly breaks.

Not overclocking as I don't really play games (I do mostly graphic and CAD work).

Amazing value for the resolution and colours!


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> Jesus that's quite a difference. Makes me wonder about this panel I just bought from Greensum. Are they the same at 60Hz?


the new one is still brighter at 60hz, overall brighter

looks cozy sski94!


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Any suggestions on where to find the cheapest Qnix 27 SE that is a reliable source?

I'm seeing price ranges from $270-320 all over the place


----------



## spikexp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> gotta get some nuts from the diy store, these are the shortest that came with the package ;s


I had to do the same thing (using small spacer) when I used my LG W2442PA stand with it. My Arctic Z1 was fine, I had no need to use them. I used the same screw for both (Z1 screw), so maybe the vesa mount on those screen aren't 100% standard.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Any suggestions on where to find the cheapest Qnix 27 SE that is a reliable source?
> 
> I'm seeing price ranges from $270-320 all over the place


get it from AW no matter what the price is...they usually have them 280-310 anyways


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> get it from AW no matter what the price is...they usually have them 280-310 anyways


How do they handle DOA?


----------



## Synthetickiller

I just got 3 of the QX2710s & I seem to have lucked out. Two of the monitors will hit a solid 120hz. I only get artifacting on the main monitor when I have multiple browser windows open. The green lines correspond to the top of the browser. If I only have a movie playing, I have no issues. It's weird, but interesting. I can't complain.

I'm replacing 2 (dead & dying) NEC 3090 1600p monitors & I can't be happier. My room is not any oven anymore (143w per NEC vs 45w per Qnix).









Anyways, I have a question since I'm new to Korean monitors & nearly 2000 posts is difficult to search through; google didn't yield any results, either.

I read a LOT, so I'd rather not suffer burn in, but I want to game/watch movies at 96hz or 120hz. I guess the issue is that a 96/120hz ICC profile will look very washed out/bright at 60hz/72hz. Changing profiles every time I change the refresh rate would be a real PITA.

Is anyone running multiple ICC profiles or at least backing up the original? (I have pretty good colors out of the box). How do you guys overcome this issue?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synthetickiller*
> 
> I just got 3 of the QX2710s & I seem to have lucked out. Two of the monitors will hit a solid 120hz. I only get artifacting on the main monitor when I have multiple browser windows open. The green lines correspond to the top of the browser. If I only have a movie playing, I have no issues. It's weird, but interesting. I can't complain.
> 
> I'm replacing 2 (dead & dying) NEC 3090 1600p monitors & I can't be happier. My room is not any oven anymore (143w per NEC vs 45w per Qnix).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, I have a question since I'm new to Korean monitors & nearly 2000 posts is difficult to search through; google didn't yield any results, either.
> 
> I read a LOT, so I'd rather not suffer burn in, but I want to game/watch movies at 96hz or 120hz. I guess the issue is that a 96/120hz ICC profile will look very washed out/bright at 60hz/72hz. Changing profiles every time I change the refresh rate would be a real PITA.
> 
> Is anyone running multiple ICC profiles or at least backing up the original? (I have pretty good colors out of the box). How do you guys overcome this issue?


Yes, most of us run multiple ICC profiles for different overclocks and this is easily achieved by using Color Sustainer by Yasamoka ... see my post *HERE* (1/2 way down) I think it has also been updated into the OP









You'll also find links to Yaz's page AND when (if?) you have questions he'll answer directly/promptly as he visit's this forum quite often


----------



## Synthetickiller

Thanks buddy! I came across a video walkthrough, so I went by that & it explained a few things I was over looking, lol.

I have one other question. I've been trying to break the 120hz barrier & everytime I put in 144hz, the resolution "works", but when I tell it to save the settings, the drivers/windows never does. 72/96/120 all save. Anything over 120 doesn't want to be saved.

Any clue what this could be?

Oh, I need to add, I'm in win 7 x64, GTX 690 (not sli till i get an active converter, so basically two 680s), 340.52 driver.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synthetickiller*
> 
> Thanks buddy! I came across a video walkthrough, so I went by that & it explained a few things I was over looking, lol.
> 
> I have one other question. I've been trying to break the 120hz barrier & everytime I put in 144hz, the resolution "works", but when I tell it to save the settings, the drivers/windows never does. 72/96/120 all save. Anything over 120 doesn't want to be saved.
> 
> Any clue what this could be?
> 
> Oh, I need to add, I'm in win 7 x64, GTX 690 (not sli till i get an active converter, so basically two 680s), 340.52 driver.


Well, no way your going to achieve "Stable" 144Hz because of the pixel clock limit, even with max tightened timings the best anyone has seen is 135Hz ... You could read more about the Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher (needed for SLI and 400/500 series Nvidia GPUs) *HERE* and you'll get feedback (from Toasty himself!) on troubleshooting the drivers and custom pixel clock timings if you've read all the install info (+30page thread) and don't ask ?'s already covered in the OP.









You might also read Lawson's OP in his thread *HERE* to further that expanded knowledge base


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> get it from AW no matter what the price is...they usually have them 280-310 anyways


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> hulk
> i think so they are the same
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/PQuYiwY.jpg
> 
> left one bought july 2014, right one bought may 2013. both on 120hz
> 
> the bezel fits much better on the new one, no bleeding, no dead pixels. also much brighter.


Has anyone else experienced something similar? I would love to know, my only goal is to avoid ebay, if the quality from AW is always like this it may be a different story


----------



## jameyscott

Well, I'm in the market for another Korean panel. After seeing how the RoG swift was handled by ASUS, I just wan to get one more Korean panel for my second system. The only thing I really care about is color accuracy and instead of buying a a pro-art panel or something similar I'd like to save a few bucks and get another korean. Which out of the three different Korean panels should I be looking at? I've already got a overclockable qnix in my main system, but don't care if this one is especially considering overclocking effects colors a bit and the gamma (IIRC)


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Bit behind but gutted to hear about this.
> I had the exact same issue and ended up sourcing a second hand PCB by complete pot luck that should be arriving tomorrow.
> 
> I've seen this issue a few times now, posted here and on other sites.
> Is it me or are these PCB's a bit on the flakey side, or am I overreacting a bit!?!
> We have thousands of monitors where I work ranging from low end tat to high end iMac displays.
> I can't remember the last time I saw a PCB failure on a display.
> 
> Anyway, hope you sort this out.


OK so I have received and fitted a new PCB and guess what, yep, monitor is still as dead as a dodo.
I'm getting to the point of giving up now, putting this down to a bad experience/lesson learnt to never import something like this again.
I read my favourite quote with regards to these monitors yesterday describing them as "lipstick on a pig". From my point of view, sounds spot on.
Feels like a decent£180 panel, wrapped around about £20 worth of tat components and housing, resulting in a fragile piece of crap. I know lots of you have had good experiences, I'm just a bit on the bitter side and wish I was one of you !!!

Anyway, asking again has anyone actually managed to fix this issue?




Asked this before but no one seems to have sorted this, unless I've missed something which is totally possible!
I've heard of other people having this problem, then a while later the monitor just sorting itself out! This makes no sense, unless there is a hamster inside which has come out of hibernation !!!

Cheers!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> OK so I have received and fitted a new PCB and guess what, yep, monitor is still as dead as a dodo.
> I'm getting to the point of giving up now, putting this down to a bad experience/lesson learnt to never import something like this again.
> I read my favourite quote with regards to these monitors yesterday describing them as "lipstick on a pig". From my point of view, sounds spot on.
> Feels like a decent£180 panel, wrapped around about £20 worth of tat components and housing, resulting in a fragile piece of crap. I know lots of you have had good experiences, I'm just a bit on the bitter side and wish I was one of you !!!
> 
> Anyway, asking again has anyone actually managed to fix this issue?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asked this before but no one seems to have sorted this, unless I've missed something which is totally possible!
> I've heard of other people having this problem, then a while later the monitor just sorting itself out! This makes no sense, unless there is a hamster inside which has come out of hibernation !!!
> 
> Cheers!


Well that is unfortunate. I honestly don't know if another PCB would fix my monitor either and I will probably just end up saving for another one in the future since nothing really beats the size, resolution, nor picture clarity of this monitor (my other IPS monitors just aren't as good as this).

If you decide to trash the monitor, I would be interested in your PCB. Please PM me if so.


----------



## Synthetickiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> OK so I have received and fitted a new PCB and guess what, yep, monitor is still as dead as a dodo.
> I'm getting to the point of giving up now, putting this down to a bad experience/lesson learnt to never import something like this again.
> I read my favourite quote with regards to these monitors yesterday describing them as "lipstick on a pig". From my point of view, sounds spot on.
> Feels like a decent£180 panel, wrapped around about £20 worth of tat components and housing, resulting in a fragile piece of crap. I know lots of you have had good experiences, I'm just a bit on the bitter side and wish I was one of you !!!
> 
> Anyway, asking again has anyone actually managed to fix this issue?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asked this before but no one seems to have sorted this, unless I've missed something which is totally possible!
> I've heard of other people having this problem, then a while later the monitor just sorting itself out! This makes no sense, unless there is a hamster inside which has come out of hibernation !!!
> 
> Cheers!


I would never ask anyone to drop another 300 USD on a monitor, but I would be curious if the panel itself is bad or if the cable connecting the monitor the PCB isn't seated properly or the connectors are damaged. One way to to obviously order another monitor & start swapping components.

Obviously, this isn't the best option.

I would fight with ebay & be persistent in getting everything paid for.

I've been lucky with mine, but I haven't had them a week. I ordered mine from IPSLEDmonitor.com b/c they are in the States & offer a non-square trade warranty. Are there any local sellers you could source these monitors from who offer a legit warranty? That seems to be a better solution. I had 2 NEC 30" 1600p monitors die / have ports go bad after owning them for 3 and 4 years respectively. They were refurbs, but they were 1000 & 1200 USD respectively. I bought 3 of these w/ warranties for half that price. It's a difficult decision either way. You can either pay more & know you're getting screwed on price for a panel that might not work as well as these cheap Korean jobs. On the other hand, these Korean monitors aren't made that well. That said, all 3 of mine feel extremely solid, so far. The power bricks are finicky though...

Good luck either way, but do NOT give in & push ebay extremely hard about this. Call back often if you have to.


----------



## jonnyalexander

Does anyone know if there is any possible way to make this monitor (non-hdmi) work with the PS4? Perhaps with some sort of DVI-D/HDMI Scaling device? I don't wanna buy a TV for the bedroom..

Thanks


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> OK so I have received and fitted a new PCB and guess what, yep, monitor is still as dead as a dodo.
> I'm getting to the point of giving up now, putting this down to a bad experience/lesson learnt to never import something like this again.
> I read my favourite quote with regards to these monitors yesterday describing them as "lipstick on a pig". From my point of view, sounds spot on.
> Feels like a decent£180 panel, wrapped around about £20 worth of tat components and housing, resulting in a fragile piece of crap. I know lots of you have had good experiences, I'm just a bit on the bitter side and wish I was one of you !!!
> 
> Anyway, asking again has anyone actually managed to fix this issue?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asked this before but no one seems to have sorted this, unless I've missed something which is totally possible!
> I've heard of other people having this problem, then a while later the monitor just sorting itself out! This makes no sense, unless there is a hamster inside which has come out of hibernation !!!
> 
> Cheers!


Please tell me you tried a different power adapter. Or at least powered the monitor from a reliable 12V source able to deliver above 40W (given no changes for newer models in that regard).


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Please tell me you tried a different power adapter. Or at least powered the monitor from a reliable 12V source able to deliver above 40W (given no changes for newer models in that regard).


Yeh, but only to a point, so very good question!
The first thing I did was to slap a meter on the power brick when it originally failed, which proved that it was outputting a steady 12V. I'll be honest though I couldn't test that it was delivering >40W. But I would have guessed that if the power brick was faulty that the voltage reading would have either been all over the place or non-existent. But again, I could be wrong here.
All I hope is that the scenario where the power brick developing a fault and then blowing the PCB (and the replacement as I used it here too thinking nowt was wrong) hasn't come true. Although this seems really unlikely to me? Shouldn't it blow the caps first? Have checked these and there are no signs of damage on both boards.

Anyway though, I found and tested a variable power brick this evening, proved that it was delivering a steady 12V (again can't test power delivery). This one can't deliver up to 5000mA (only 1200mA) so it isn't really a fair test, but I can't see how this screen would need 5A !!! Tried this but again, same result.
Anyway, I'll try to find a matched power brick in work tomorrow just to test with both PCBs. I'm not hopeful though.

While I'm here, cable-wise, I've only had a single link DVI as an alternative to test against which gives the same broken result. Plus I can prove the dual link cable works with another (albeit non 1440p) monitor, so I'm guessing that this cannot be the cable at fault???
Quote:


> I would be curious if the panel itself is bad or if the cable connecting the monitor the PCB isn't seated properly or the connectors are damaged.


As far as internal cabling goes, I had another set of the pixel delivery cables (the paired ones) with the replacement PCB. Have tried both cables with both boards. Connectors on the inverted board look OK at a quick visual check, but I can't rule these out. I'll check again when I get chance.

Potential stupid question, I have a pile of higher rated laptop style bricks, one delivering 19V. What would happen if I used this? Wouldn't it depend on the voltage handling rating of the caps, which would go bang before any of the IC's ?
I only as the other half has been daft enough to plug whatever she can find into her laptop! I've found a 24V power brick plugged into a laptop rated for 19V with no adverse affect. Although I wouldn't recommend anyone on here do it !!!!
Quote:


> If you decide to trash the monitor, I would be interested in your PCB. Please PM me if so.


Kokin - are you UK based? If so I'm going to try a few more things first, but yes, I could probably help you out at some point ;-)


----------



## freddie589

Hi all,
Looking at purchasing one of these tomorrow, where is everyone buying them from in the UK, I had a look at Dream-Seller but could only find a couple listed that have only sold less than 10. for example this one.
Any advice would be appreciated thanks.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie589*
> 
> Hi all,
> Looking at purchasing one of these tomorrow, where is everyone buying them from in the UK, I had a look at Dream-Seller but could only find a couple listed that have only sold less than 10. for example this one.
> Any advice would be appreciated thanks.


Please read the original post in this thread first. That monitor you listed will not overclock, regardless of what the auction states. As for sellers, accessorieswhole seems to be one of the more popular ones. Greensum is another.


----------



## niceuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neckbone76*
> 
> Thanks for these forums, they have helped me a lot getting my new Qnix QX2710 Evolution II up and running. So for all the help these forums have given me, I'm going to give back with what I can. I admit I have not read all 1980+ pages so some of this could be hidden somewhere else so I apologize if it is. The new Qnix manufacturer website I have found is
> 
> http://www.qnix.biz/
> 
> The one at the first page didn't work for me under relevant manufacturer information tab.
> 
> This is another Qnix manufacturer website with physical address, phone number and a contact person. It was useful for me when I had to fill out the FCC form 740 for FedEx before they would deliver it.
> 
> http://ksgktrade.en.ec21.com/
> 
> and Lastly is for anyone who had to fill out the FCC form 740 for FedEx before they would deliver the Qnix monitor, in my case anyways before I fought with them.
> 
> First this monitor when being imported should be listed as HTS code 8528.51.0000 for U.S. customs.
> 
> 8528.51.0000, Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (HTSUS), which provides for Monitors and projectors, not incorporating television reception apparatus&#8230;Other monitors: Of a kind solely or principally used in an automatic data processing system of heading 8471. The rate of duty will be Free.
> 
> Sometimes (as in my case) you get a clueless customs agent who puts something ridiculous for the import tariff code which will A.) give customs and the shipper reason to try to collect an import tax from you, and B.) have to fill out FCC form 740.
> 
> Basically FCC form 740 is needed on equipment being imported that can produce a harmful radio frequency. Televisions with built in tuners, computers with built in tuners and things of that nature fall into this category. Computer monitors that are incapable of accepting NTSC or PAL signals or displaying any video signal and are required to be plugged into a computer to work or display said signals do not need FCC paperwork of any type to be imported into the U.S. if they are just computer monitors.
> 
> But if you are stuck filling out this paperwork here is some information for you to help you out.
> 
> Part 1
> 
> Box 1 Date - Obvious enough
> Box 2 Entry number - Leave blank
> Box 3 Port of Entry - Leave blank unless you are U.S. then it will 99% be Alaska.
> Box 4 Harmonized Tariff Number - Leave blank or you can be a pain and fill in 8528.51.0000, do at your own risk because you are basically telling the Customs official how to do their job. How I got
> around this in box 9.
> Box 5 Quantity - How many did you buy and have shipped, if it was 1 then 1, 2 - 2 etc..
> Box 6 Device Model/Type name or # - Qnix QX2710 Evolution II (Or whatever model you bought)
> Box 7 Trade Name - Computer Monitor
> Box 8 FCC ID - leave blank
> Box 9 Description of Equipment - Samsung PLS computer monitor. NOT a television and NOT a computer, should have an HTS code of 8528.51.0000
> Box 10 Manufacturer's Name and Address - Kyoung Seong Global Korea, 41-1 Nocheom-gil ilsandon, g-gu Goyang-gi Gyeongil, -do 410-380 Korea www.ksgktrade.en.ec21.com
> Phone #82-31-3118688
> Box 11 Consignee's Name and Address - Your information
> Box 12 Importer's Name and Address - leave blank (I put this as my information the first time I filled it out and FedEx emailed me that the shipper (Stylebang) put me as the Cosignee and not Importer.
> Box 13 Printed Name - yours
> Box 14 Signature and Date - Yours and today's date
> 
> Part II - have to check one of these, (only boxes 1,2,3 or 7 will allow you to import the item.).
> 
> for this part I chose box 7, was the safest choice.
> 
> I searched everywhere I could find to figure out how to fill FCC 740 out correctly for a Korean computer monitor and got no hits in any search I did. My day job is not a trader so this was more difficult for me at least than it was buying my last car. Between trying to figure out why they heck I had to fill it out in the first place, what this involved for me, and what it meant for me in the future it took me almost 12 hours from start to finish getting this thing correct to send to FedEx and U.S. Customs. I know many of you didn't have to put up with the non-sense, and I hope most of you never have to, but in case you do I thought I would post it here for easy access in the future.
> 
> In the end I got my awesome monitor and am very pleased with it. And I had no import taxes and no other fees from FedEx. I hope this helps anyone else out in the future.
> 
> Have a good one and party on..
> 
> Neckbone


I was requested to do the same and this information was extremely useful. I really appreciate you taking the time to share this, it just saved me a lot of time! Thanks a mil!


----------



## tocirahl

Just wanted to report that the following timings (464MHz Pixel Clock) work for me @ 120Hz while still retaining memory downclock on my GPU:



I've confirmed that these are the lowest possible timings for my monitor while still downclocking. Just thought I'd share in case anyone's having a problem with the 483MHz timing in the overclocking thread.

Note: Using CRU is no longer recommended for NVidia card. I will update this post with an NVCP screenshot later tonight.


----------



## gobblebox

Does anyone know where to find accurate 120hz ICC Profiles? The highest I can find, it seems, are 110hz, and none of them come even close to passing calibration tests @ 120hz.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> Does anyone know where to find accurate 120hz ICC Profiles? The highest I can find, it seems, are 110hz, and none of them come even close to passing calibration tests @ 120hz.


That's because all monitors are different you'd have to actually calibrate your own


----------



## KingGamma

Is there any hassle shipping these monitors to the U.S.? Also will I have to pay taxes on it once it is imported?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingGamma*
> 
> Is there any hassle shipping these monitors to the U.S.? Also will I have to pay taxes on it once it is imported?


The only hassle will be shipping it back if there are issues.

The U.S. has a trade agreement with South Korea, so there's no import/customs charge.


----------



## dante`afk

welp, after 1 year and 3 monhts of use my first qnix just started to flicker lines on the right side of the screen.

http://i.imgur.com/TWArB0Y.jpg

have to go down to 115hz to have it stop, also the lines are only flickering if it is on a white back ground, no issues with other colored backgrounds


----------



## niceuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingGamma*
> 
> Is there any hassle shipping these monitors to the U.S.? Also will I have to pay taxes on it once it is imported?


Like Ascii mentioned above there should be no issues. Usually the shipper will take care of any paperwork but in rare occasions you may be requested to fill out an FCC-740 form. You can find all the information for filling that form on page 1985 of this thread (http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/19840).


----------



## skahzreg

so i've read up that some people have gotten faulty monitors where the fps drops when you oc above it 60hz and i have the same issue
i was wondering what i should say to the seller as i was told not to mention oc


----------



## dante`afk

well the screens are not supposed to get OCd as far as I can tell, so I`d think the seller will only repair if they have issues at 60hz


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tocirahl*
> 
> Just wanted to report that the following timings (464MHz Pixel Clock) work for me @ 120Hz while still retaining memory downclock on my GPU:
> 
> 
> 
> I've confirmed that these are the lowest possible timings for my monitor while still downclocking. Just thought I'd share in case anyone's having a problem with the 483MHz timing in the overclocking thread.


Nice ... new or confirming timing info is beneficial to all +R








But you should "note" your using CRU with an Nvidia GPU, which is not needed or recommended ... some may find it confusing to see a "CRU" screenie, with more info and more irrelevant settings than an Nvidia Control panel screenshot









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> Does anyone know where to find accurate 120hz ICC Profiles? The highest I can find, it seems, are 110hz, and none of them come even close to passing calibration tests @ 120hz.


Like the Squad said, all panels are different, compounded by people's differing perceptions as to what looks best ...







But If I read your question right, your looking for 120Hz profiles, which are way more common than 110Hz profiles, which also why many of us use our 120Hz profile for both 110Hz & 120Hz settings, we can't tell the difference.
So here are some of my favorites ...

FavoriteColorSustainerprofiles.zip 71k .zip file


I use them with Color Sustainer ... more info *HERE* 1/2 way down the post, or also I think it is now in the OP









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skahzreg*
> 
> so i've read up that some people have gotten faulty monitors where the fps drops when you oc above it 60hz and i have the same issue
> i was wondering what i should say to the seller as i was told not to mention oc
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> well the screens are not supposed to get OCd as far as I can tell, so I`d think the seller will only repair if they have issues at 60hz
Click to expand...

Well your missing so much info (type monitor/overclock/GPU/Vendor/etc etc) ... but I'll take a guess and interpret -fps = "frame dropping" and that you have a multi-input AH-VA panel (QX2710 True10 variants) in which case they "are" advertised to overclock, but will frame drop ...








Read more about it *HERE*
But in any case that should in no way deter you from mentioning overclocks to the vendor, they clearly advertise it, and the vendors are well aware that overclocking is the "Main" selling point/feature of the QNIX QX2710 and most everyone would not buy one if this weren't the case ... hope you find that helpful and a start to your quest for successful overclocking


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice ... new or confirming timing info is beneficial to all +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you should "note" your using CRU with an Nvidia GPU, which is not needed or recommended ... some may find it confusing to see a "CRU" screenie, with more info and more irrelevant settings than an Nvidia Control panel screenshot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the Squad said, all panels are different, compounded by people's differing perceptions as to what looks best ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But If I read your question right, your looking for 120Hz profiles, which are way more common than 110Hz profiles, which also why many of us use our 120Hz profile for both 110Hz & 120Hz settings, we can't tell the difference.
> So here are some of my favorites ...
> 
> FavoriteColorSustainerprofiles.zip 71k .zip file
> 
> 
> I use them with Color Sustainer ... more info *HERE* 1/2 way down the post, or also I think it is now in the OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well your missing so much info (type monitor/overclock/GPU/Vendor/etc etc) ... but I'll take a guess and interpret -fps = "frame dropping" and that you have a multi-input AH-VA panel (QX2710 True10 variants) in which case they "are" advertised to overclock, but will frame drop ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read more about it *HERE*
> *But in any case that should in no way deter you from mentioning overclocks to the vendor, they clearly advertise it, and the vendors are well aware that overclocking is the "Main" selling point/feature of the QNIX QX2710 and most everyone would not buy one if this weren't the case* ... hope you find that helpful and a start to your quest for successful overclocking


What 1440p monitor, in your opinion would people buy in this price range if 60Hz was enough for them and they were looking more for image quality in games?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> What 1440p monitor, in your opinion would people buy in this price range if 60Hz was enough for them and they were looking more for image quality in games?


Qnix, CrossOver variants, Catleap non-2B, etc.... Since I personally wouldn't pay more for the branded monitors given what the Korean monitors already offer besides overclocking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> Does anyone know where to find accurate 120hz ICC Profiles? The highest I can find, it seems, are 110hz, and none of them come even close to passing calibration tests @ 120hz.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/jm1ofor9iunsjd4/Qnix6500Kg2.2S118Hz10c2014-08-05.zip


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> What 1440p monitor, in your opinion would people buy in this price range if 60Hz was enough for them and they were looking more for image quality in games?


crossover 27q led-p all metal monitors. i got 3. being all metal is pretty sweet


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> welp, after 1 year and 3 monhts of use my first qnix just started to flicker lines on the right side of the screen.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/TWArB0Y.jpg
> 
> have to go down to 115hz to have it stop, also the lines are only flickering if it is on a white back ground, no issues with other colored backgrounds


does any1 know why I would have these lines only on white background?


----------



## ldejavul

So I just got this monitor today and followed the OC timings from Lawson. I have a 110hz profile so I can do most things with lower memory clocks. I had that all setup and working correctly. If I clock to 120hz my memory clocks peg which is what I thought they would do. Now my issue is that I have two other monitors that are 1080p 60hz only. If I hook one more up on my 110hz OC my clock will idle down like its supposed to but if I add my 3rd display it will not idle. Not even if I set all 3 monitors at 1080p and 60hz. Any Ideas? Is this normal?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Kokin - are you UK based? If so I'm going to try a few more things first, but yes, I could probably help you out at some point ;-)


I am actually US-based (California). I'm hoping you can solve your issue first before you have anything to do with me though!

I tested out both the stock power brick and a CWT one I bought off Ebay, and both give 12.13V and 12.4V (respectively) at zero load. I don't have the equipment to test the load voltage or wattage, so no help there. These Qnix monitors are rated for about 40~45W of usage at full brightness based off reviews, so you definitely need at least 12V 4Amps to drive these monitors.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> does any1 know why I would have these lines only on white background?


I didn't have those lines, but my monitor was flickering on/off when I had white backgrounds for a while (15~20minutes). This only started happening right before it died though, so we might have had different experiences.


----------



## skahzreg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice ... new or confirming timing info is beneficial to all +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you should "note" your using CRU with an Nvidia GPU, which is not needed or recommended ... some may find it confusing to see a "CRU" screenie, with more info and more irrelevant settings than an Nvidia Control panel screenshot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the Squad said, all panels are different, compounded by people's differing perceptions as to what looks best ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But If I read your question right, your looking for 120Hz profiles, which are way more common than 110Hz profiles, which also why many of us use our 120Hz profile for both 110Hz & 120Hz settings, we can't tell the difference.
> So here are some of my favorites ...
> 
> FavoriteColorSustainerprofiles.zip 71k .zip file
> 
> 
> I use them with Color Sustainer ... more info *HERE* 1/2 way down the post, or also I think it is now in the OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well your missing so much info (type monitor/overclock/GPU/Vendor/etc etc) ... but I'll take a guess and interpret -fps = "frame dropping" and that you have a multi-input AH-VA panel (QX2710 True10 variants) in which case they "are" advertised to overclock, but will frame drop ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read more about it *HERE*
> But in any case that should in no way deter you from mentioning overclocks to the vendor, they clearly advertise it, and the vendors are well aware that overclocking is the "Main" selling point/feature of the QNIX QX2710 and most everyone would not buy one if this weren't the case ... hope you find that helpful and a start to your quest for successful overclocking


http://www.ebay.com/itm/121117252582?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
oc'd at 96hz, i5 4670k, amd radeon hd 7950

i dont see the word overclock anywhere on the ebay page 8(


----------



## jameyscott

Oh boy. Ventures of 1440p surrround might be happening. My friend might trade me his two titans for my two 780 classifieds.

Now to decide if I really want to trade my babies. :/


----------



## Descadent

your two 780s can run surround 1440p until 800 series comes out ya know! unless he is doing an even trade that is

but beware 1440p surround is a PITA sometimes compared to 1080p surround. It will make you dump alot of money

and don't buy qnix from greensum!!!! only buy from accessorieswhole if you don't want horrible customer service and dead pixels.. AW gets better monitors(they get A panels instead of A- on most monitors ex: my crossovers are A panels and zero dead pixels on all 3 and neither of them were "perfect pixel" auctions) and ships 2 days from korea to U.S.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> crossover 27q led-p all metal monitors. i got 3. being all metal is pretty sweet


Well crap, I guess I should have asked this before purchasing this QNIX. Oh well. I also got this one from Greensum and while I don't know if its an A- panel, I did opt for the pixel perfect version fro 330 on sale and it has no dead pixels and shipped to my door within 5 days.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> your two 780s can run surround 1440p until 800 series comes out ya know! unless he is doing an even trade that is
> 
> but beware 1440p surround is a PITA sometimes compared to 1080p surround. It will make you dump alot of money
> 
> and don't buy qnix from greensum!!!! only buy from accessorieswhole if you don't want horrible customer service and dead pixels.. AW gets better monitors(they get A panels instead of A- on most monitors ex: my crossovers are A panels and zero dead pixels on all 3 and neither of them were "perfect pixel" auctions) and ships 2 days from korea to U.S.


Even trade and I'm skipping the 800 series. And yeah, I'd be purchasing from AW like I did last time.

Plus finding a third Titan when the 800 series hits would be much easier. I know scaling blah blah. I want three darn it.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> What 1440p monitor, in your opinion would people buy in this price range if 60Hz was enough for them and they were looking more for image quality in games?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> Well crap, I guess I should have asked this before purchasing this QNIX. Oh well. I also got this one from Greensum and while I don't know if its an A- panel, I did opt for the pixel perfect version fro 330 on sale and it has no dead pixels and shipped to my door within 5 days.
Click to expand...

All previous are good recommendations ... But if I were buying a 1440p IPS panel today in the $300-$350 range I'd buy the YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz IPS 2560x1440 Glossy Monitor *HERE* ... these were selling for appx $700 just a month ago, excellent picture (glossy) and excellent reputation! ... You don't have to OC it if you don't want to, but it just adds to it's resale value!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skahzreg*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121117252582?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> oc'd at 96hz, i5 4670k, amd radeon hd 7950
> 
> i dont see the word overclock anywhere on the ebay page 8(


Well now that we know what monitor you have, I guessed wrong while trying to guess what trouble your having with what equipment etc etc ... So NO you will not see the word overclockable in "most" truly overclockable single-input PLS QNIX QX2710's descriptions ... However I still stand by my comments ...


----------



## Rawng

Hey everyone I recently took on the task of getting rid of my backlight bleed. I saw the guide on how to take it apart but I'm a little nervous to take apart my monitor all the way lol. So I did something else. As you'll see in this picture I used electrical tape, but what I did was is I slid it under the metal frame. I'd use a matchbook to push it all the way in and so it'd stick to the metal. On the more problem areas I did this a few times by pulling up the metal frame a tad. I got rid of my backlight bleed 100% by doing this.

It's pretty ghettorigged but it works.



Hope this helps people


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I am actually US-based (California). I'm hoping you can solve your issue first before you have anything to do with me though!
> 
> I tested out both the stock power brick and a CWT one I bought off Ebay, and both give 12.13V and 12.4V (respectively) at zero load. I don't have the equipment to test the load voltage or wattage, so no help there. These Qnix monitors are rated for about 40~45W of usage at full brightness based off reviews, so you definitely need at least 12V 4Amps to drive these monitors.
> I didn't have those lines, but my monitor was flickering on/off when I had white backgrounds for a while (15~20minutes). This only started happening right before it died though, so we might have had different experiences.


Sorry Kokin, I think the chances of me repairing mine have crashed down to slim to absolutely none.
I've gone down the ebay dispute route now as a last resort (probably should have been first), so lets see what happens.
I'm not hopeful, Paypal won't allow the money back guarantee as the purchase date has passed 45 days (even though I initially contacted the seller advising of the fault 11 days after - grrrrr).
Flea-bay are going to contact the seller on my behalf now, and PayPal advised for me to contact my credit card company and perform a charge-back. Although I'm guessing this isn't as easy as it sounds and there could be repercussions? *Has anyone done this when they were in a similar situation to me?*
Anyway, we'll see, whatever happens, I'll still have a spare PCB on my hands...

I love the look of this as already mentioned (pity seller doesn't ship to UK) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-Monitor-/111399828170?
But I think I'm going to steer clear of flea-bay from now and pay a bit more for a locally sourced monitor, plus the mrs could kill me if I bought another...


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> Hey everyone I recently took on the task of getting rid of my backlight bleed. I saw the guide on how to take it apart but I'm a little nervous to take apart my monitor all the way lol. So I did something else. As you'll see in this picture I used electrical tape, but what I did was is I slid it under the metal frame. I'd use a matchbook to push it all the way in and so it'd stick to the metal. On the more problem areas I did this a few times by pulling up the metal frame a tad. I got rid of my backlight bleed 100% by doing this.
> 
> It's pretty ghettorigged but it works.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps people


Nice work!
Although I thought taking the plastic surround off was far worse (and scarier) than un-mounting the metal frame, as metal doesn't snap! Well, not as easily anyway !!!
And before you ask, mine was already broke before I did this and I didn't make it any worse !!!


----------



## Rawng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Nice work!
> Although I thought taking the plastic surround off was far worse (and scarier) than un-mounting the metal frame, as metal doesn't snap! Well, not as easily anyway !!!
> And before you ask, mine was already broke before I did this and I didn't make it any worse !!!


Boy are you right about taking off the bezel hahaha I wasn't sure what I was doing wrong when it wasn't coming off then SNAP... scared the crap out of me hahah

I'm a little iffy about disconnecting stuff unfortunately


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Sorry Kokin, I think the chances of me repairing mine have crashed down to slim to absolutely none.
> I've gone down the ebay dispute route now as a last resort (probably should have been first), so lets see what happens.
> I'm not hopeful, Paypal won't allow the money back guarantee as the purchase date has passed 45 days (even though I initially contacted the seller advising of the fault 11 days after - grrrrr).
> Flea-bay are going to contact the seller on my behalf now, and PayPal advised for me to contact my credit card company and perform a charge-back. Although I'm guessing this isn't as easy as it sounds and there could be repercussions? *Has anyone done this when they were in a similar situation to me?*
> Anyway, we'll see, whatever happens, I'll still have a spare PCB on my hands...


Did you try another power adapter or not?
Quote:


> I love the look of this as already mentioned (pity seller doesn't ship to UK) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-Monitor-/111399828170?
> But I think I'm going to steer clear of flea-bay from now and pay a bit more for a locally sourced monitor, plus the mrs could kill me if I bought another...


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/19780

Post #19786 and below.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Did you try another power adapter or not?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/19780
> 
> Post #19786 and below.


I got hold of a brick that delivered 12v and up to 4 amps so not quite a fair test. Should be close enough and didn't work anyway.
Yep, taking the plastic surround off was not a nice experience!!!


----------



## gobblebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> Hey everyone I recently took on the task of getting rid of my backlight bleed. I saw the guide on how to take it apart but I'm a little nervous to take apart my monitor all the way lol. So I did something else. As you'll see in this picture I used electrical tape, but what I did was is I slid it under the metal frame. I'd use a matchbook to push it all the way in and so it'd stick to the metal. On the more problem areas I did this a few times by pulling up the metal frame a tad. I got rid of my backlight bleed 100% by doing this.
> 
> It's pretty ghettorigged but it works.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps people


This is brilliant, and I feel the same way about taking the entire thing apart... I only have a slight amount of BLB in the bottom corners, so I think I'll be taking mine apart and doing the same this weekend. This basically just closes a gap that allows extra light between the panel and the frame, right? J/W how this actually corrects the BLB...


----------



## Rawng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> This is brilliant, and I feel the same way about taking the entire thing apart... I only have a slight amount of BLB in the bottom corners, so I think I'll be taking mine apart and doing the same this weekend. This basically just closes a gap that allows extra light between the panel and the frame, right? J/W how this actually corrects the BLB...


That is correct ;P some of the more problem areas required much more than one strip.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=4

When overclocking do any of you experience blotches on the green text?

With 60hz I barely see anything on green ( just some patterns in background for whatever reason ) but no blotches or spots that looked pressed upon.

I also was unlucky with a screw that stripped the thread on the vesa mount







Seems I'll have to literally take apart the whole panel to remove the shroud inside the back. I might do this seeing as there is a small BLB on the bottom and I want to try and straighten the frame
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> With 120hz i will always recommend using the 459mhz timings as you will have a much stronger signal and you will be closer to the display controllers 450mhz limit!....However your ram will not downclock using my 459mhz tightened timings.... 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen...Even NVIDIA cards won't clock down if the vertical blanking/total is that low!... So i would use 120hz to game then set a lower refresh rate on the desktop or just run 110hz 24/7 as i do and i believe you will end up doing so in time anyhow as there is not much if any difference between 110hz and 120hz anyhow....In fact i see no difference at all.
> 
> Also the reason color sustainer is showing you red text with other ICC profiles is due to the fact that they were created using software other than dispcalgui and yaz has not as yet fully added surport for ICC profiles made by different calibration software as yet....However he has posted a workaround in the OP to allow color sustainer to use all non surported ICC profiles!


There some trick I am missing to have the memory downclock? I am pushing 3 monitors on one 780ti so I am unsure if it even will. Using the 110hz from the overclocking thread and I've yet to see it down clock


----------



## AntharesProcyon

Hey guys! I'm dying to buy myself one of those monitors. However, I'm not quite sure which exact model to go for. Those multi-input models do appeal to me quite a lot, except that it seems they suck for overclocking. I asked this Ebay seller (accessories-whole) about it and they said it's not a problem.

Should I just stick with the single input model and stay away from those other models like the plague? I'm planning of overclocking it.
I'm thinking of buying this

According to this vendor that screen has 300cd^2 while the multi input version has 350cd^2, yet they use the same panel. Could anyone please be so kind to suggest me what to get? I do prioritize overclocking potential over the inputs, although I do see the added value of that.

Ah well, hope I'll be on the list soon enough!


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AntharesProcyon*
> 
> Hey guys! I'm dying to buy myself one of those monitors. However, I'm not quite sure which exact model to go for. Those multi-input models do appeal to me quite a lot, except that it seems they suck for overclocking. I asked this Ebay seller (accessories-whole) about it and they said it's not a problem.
> 
> Should I just stick with the single input model and stay away from those other models like the plague? I'm planning of overclocking it.
> I'm thinking of buying this
> 
> According to this vendor that screen has 300cd^2 while the multi input version has 350cd^2, yet they use the same panel. Could anyone please be so kind to suggest me what to get? I do prioritize overclocking potential over the inputs, although I do see the added value of that.
> 
> Ah well, hope I'll be on the list soon enough!


Stick with the single DVI-D input. The sellers are misinformed about the OCing. This video pretty much sums it up.


----------



## 3m3k

just received an invoice from fedex








I didn't see Ireland on the 1st page there so here's the story:
paid 230 euro for the qnix
customs invoice - 95 euro in total (item value on the invoice says 200$)
it took almost 1 month for the customs... i was hoping for no additional fees
so it's 325 euro in total - still not bad but 230 sounds lot better


----------



## Descadent

dang...all countries should have free trade agreements... it takes like 2 days for monitors to come from korea to U.S. and sits in customs for like 5mins lol


----------



## dante`afk

mang 1 month? crazy


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> just received an invoice from fedex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't see Ireland on the 1st page there so here's the story:
> paid 230 euro for the qnix
> customs invoice - 95 euro in total (item value on the invoice says 200$)
> it took almost 1 month for the customs... i was hoping for no additional fees
> so it's 325 euro in total - still not bad but 230 sounds lot better


I waited 2 weeks and paid £105 at customs daylight robbery in England! Imagine if it had to be sent back :O . If I ever get a chance to get em back grrr...









Is that invoice from customs or FedEx? Because if it's FedEx you might be able to dispute it! At least I heard...Ah yes this was it:

"I bought one, got an invoice a week after delivery for somewhere around £40 plus a £10 'Advancement Fee'. I was ready for it so had no problem HOWEVER, as soon as you see the 'Advancement Fee' call them up and say you are not going to pay it. Just say this
Quote:
"I refuse to pay the advancement fee since at no point was I made aware of, nor did I agree to, any terms and conditions which clearly stated that I would be liable for any such charges"
. As what this says is true. Even though the seller paid for the postage, you are responsible for customs, but never have you ever had contact with FedEx (likely the company for delivery from Korea) and was told about an advnacement fee."


----------



## X79guy

I have had my glossy (with tempered glass in front) qnix qx2710 for a while now at 120hz, and went to ebay to buy a second one but saw that all the glossy ones are selling for $700. Did something change? I am confused as to why they are so expensive now?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> I have had my glossy (with tempered glass in front) qnix qx2710 for a while now at 120hz, and went to ebay to buy a second one but saw that all the glossy ones are selling for $700. Did something change? I am confused as to why they are so expensive now?


Because they no longer make the glossy ones.


----------



## X79guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Because they no longer make the glossy ones.


Ah I see. Is the tempered glass version different from the glossy version? If so that means there is a matte version, a glossy version, and then a glossy version with tempered glass?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> Ah I see. Is the tempered glass version different from the glossy version? If so that means there is a matte version, a glossy version, and then a glossy version with tempered glass?


There is also a tempered glass with matte, IIRC.


----------



## CloudEx

Hi everyone, i tried this method without success, probably i made some mistake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> Hey everyone I recently took on the task of getting rid of my backlight bleed. I saw the guide on how to take it apart but I'm a little nervous to take apart my monitor all the way lol. So I did something else. As you'll see in this picture I used electrical tape, but what I did was is I slid it under the metal frame. I'd use a matchbook to push it all the way in and so it'd stick to the metal. On the more problem areas I did this a few times by pulling up the metal frame a tad. I got rid of my backlight bleed 100% by doing this.
> 
> It's pretty ghettorigged but it works.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps people








Any suggestion? Maybe i put too much tape


----------



## Rawng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudEx*
> 
> Hi everyone, i tried this method without success, probably i made some mistake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestion? Maybe i put too much tape


Wow man your BLB is really bad holy crap. Mine wasn't nearly as bad but maybe put more tape? I'm not sure but I'm assuming there is still some space down there for light to get thru. I still don't understand how the light gets to the front of the screen like this to begin with lol


----------



## The Source

If it's actually as bad as it looks I would be considering sending it back. But you might also be using a ISO setting on the camera and that will make it worse than it really is being so sensitive to light..


----------



## CloudEx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> If it's actually as bad as it looks I would be considering sending it back. But you might also be using a ISO setting on the camera and that will make it worse than it really is being so sensitive to light..


Fortunately it's not as bad as it looks, in normal use (playing game, surfing on the net...) i didn't notice anything but when i watch a movie (2 meters away) i notice that backlight bleed.

And sending it back is too expensive

Some photo:






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> Wow man your BLB is really bad holy crap. Mine wasn't nearly as bad but maybe put more tape? I'm not sure but I'm assuming there is still some space down there for light to get thru. I still don't understand how the light gets to the front of the screen like this to begin with lol




have you put anything in this space?? (paper towel, printer paper....)


----------



## Rawng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudEx*
> 
> Fortunately it's not as bad as it looks, in normal use (playing game, surfing on the net...) i didn't notice anything but when i watch a movie (2 meters away) i notice that backlight bleed.
> 
> And sending it back is too expensive
> 
> Some photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have you put anything in this space?? (paper towel, printer paper....)


I didn't put anything behind my monitor other than some crumbled paper to push the panel forward.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=4
> 
> When overclocking do any of you experience blotches on the green text?
> 
> With 60hz I barely see anything on green ( just some patterns in background for whatever reason ) but no blotches or spots that looked pressed upon.
> 
> I also was unlucky with a screw that stripped the thread on the vesa mount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems I'll have to literally take apart the whole panel to remove the shroud inside the back. I might do this seeing as there is a small BLB on the bottom and I want to try and straighten the frame
> There some trick I am missing to have the memory downclock? I am pushing 3 monitors on one 780ti so I am unsure if it even will. Using the 110hz from the overclocking thread and I've yet to see it down clock


Anybody experience this?


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudEx*
> 
> Fortunately it's not as bad as it looks, in normal use (playing game, surfing on the net...) i didn't notice anything but when i watch a movie (2 meters away) i notice that backlight bleed.
> 
> And sending it back is too expensive
> 
> Some photo:
> 
> have you put anything in this space?? (paper towel, printer paper....)


Well that is really unfortunate then. I couldn't live with that. I'd be tearing it apart and straightening the frame instead of this tape business.

Did you buy it off of ebay? I would complain to the seller and threaten to send it back. Usually they offer a partial refund hoping you take it and keep the monitor.


----------



## Synthetickiller

I'm posting this as I've run into the fact that not many people are running triple monitors & fewer are driving them with a gtx 690.

All that said, You can only run SLI (Maximize 3D performance) if you use all of the ports on the "first" card. Basically, you can only use 2 of the 3 DVI ports. This leaves a VERY annoying situation where you have to use an active mini-DP to DVI converter. The one I ordered "works," but only at 60hz. I've run into the following anomalies:

1. Any frequency above 60hz makes me feel like the tracking is off on my crappy VHS player.
2.The screen will randomly "blink" (go to black & immediately work again).
3. I've had instances in hibernation where the screen will start flashing all RGB, then the vertical line color test. The only way to fix this is pull the USB power from the active adapter. Everything goes right back to work. This is more annoying than anything.

In case anyone is unsure with an sli set up, for 3 monitors, you need to have a max of 2 on the SLI cards & the 3rd on a 3rd card.

I'm not aware of any active converter that will push more than 60hz, but I also didn't do that much research as it "seems" 60hz is basically the standard for 1440p/1600p screens right now (industry wise, I know we are outliers).

I have yet to try the sli driver set up & all of that jazz, but the converter itself is the problem.


----------



## Darklyric

Hey is there on consensus on which brands and models overclock better? I didn't see anything in the OP accept for to stick to single input dvi-d. Any help would be sweet.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Hey is there on consensus on which brands and models overclock better? I didn't see anything in the OP accept for to stick to single input dvi-d. Any help would be sweet.


When you get a single-input / PLS "truly" overclockable model there is no difference between the 2 brand names, QNIX or X-Star. The only slight difference has nothing to do with performance, but some have said the X-Star is a bit easier to work with regarding the Vesa mount.

QNIX's naming conventions are Horrid regarding how different the models can be under the name QNIX QX2710.
Buyer be educated, buyer beware of the QNIX QX2710 multi-input AH-VA panels that advertise to overclock, BUT WILL NOT without dropping frames







... for detailed description/proof see my post *HERE*









Note this information is also directly applicable to the X-Star DP2710 models


----------



## rwong48

Welp, my X-Star DP2710 just died. I bought it on Aug 5, 2013.

It was spazzing out at 120Hz a couple weeks ago. I didn't want to figure it out, so I made it 96Hz and it was fine. Now it just spazzed out to its death. Doesn't even work at 60Hz.. tried my macbook with a monoprice adapter (which was my main setup for WFH days) and that didn't work either.

So now.. I think the answer is to just buy another one. After all, I told myself that I'd rather risk 120Hz and have it die, than to live with 60Hz..

Do the multi-input ones actually not OC at all? I've already invested in the Monoprice adapter, but if I can get 60Hz over DisplayPort and 85-96Hz (96-120 preferred of course) over DVI-DL, I might want to try a multi-input one. Most likely not, though. I've read a lot of mixed information.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwong48*
> 
> Welp, my X-Star DP2710 just died. I bought it on Aug 5, 2013.
> 
> It was spazzing out at 120Hz a couple weeks ago. I didn't want to figure it out, so I made it 96Hz and it was fine. Now it just spazzed out to its death. Doesn't even work at 60Hz.. tried my macbook with a monoprice adapter (which was my main setup for WFH days) and that didn't work either.
> 
> So now.. I think the answer is to just buy another one. After all, I told myself that I'd rather risk 120Hz and have it die, than to live with 60Hz..
> 
> Do the multi-input ones actually not OC at all? I've already invested in the Monoprice adapter, but if I can get 60Hz over DisplayPort and 85-96Hz (96-120 preferred of course) over DVI-DL, I might want to try a multi-input one. Most likely not, though. I've read a lot of mixed information.


Did you try a different power brick ?


----------



## Descadent

no this thread has it 100x times that multi input doesn't oc


----------



## TheOJab

After Logan from TechSyndicate uploaded a video about these 1440P monitors I thought that I might as well try one out, so last monday I ordered a Matte X-STAR DP2710LED from dream seller. The total cost ended up being $329,90 USD, with free fast shipping. The monitor arrived at my house around 1.5 hours ago, and it is now setup and in use.

*About import fees in Denmark*
I did not have to pay any extra import/other fees for this monitor. The monitor was shipped with FedEx, and took 5 business days to arrive. As stated above, the monitor was bought from Dream-seller (http://www.ebay.com/usr/dream-seller)

Here are a few images from the unboxing of the monitor, and after it had been set up
















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Abadaman

Hello guys, so i got my second Qnix few days ago (cause i broke the first one trying to fix BLB), oced it to 120Hz with tigher timings so my AMD r290 downclocks the memory, got two grey pixels on the left bottom side, almost unnoticeable, first Qnix got one red pixel almost in the middle and another red pixel @ right side, both are pixel perfect monitors, lol. I just wanna ask, if this is bad BLB i got. First picture is in low lights (that's how i play games @ evening), second picture is in dark room. What do you guys think? Btw i took those pictures with my LG G2 phone, seems as my smartphone intensifies those bright spots, with naked eye it is much better. So is this bad or not at all? What do you think? Should i open this one also and try to ,,fix it'' as the first one?








Here are the pics:


----------



## blackforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Hello guys, so i got my second Qnix few days ago (cause i broke the first one trying to fix BLB), oced it to 120Hz with tigher timings so my AMD r290 downclocks the memory, got two grey pixels on the left bottom side, almost unnoticeable, first Qnix got one red pixel almost in the middle and another red pixel @ right side, both are pixel perfect monitors, lol. I just wanna ask, if this is bad BLB i got. First picture is in low lights (that's how i play games @ evening), second picture is in dark room. What do you guys think? Btw i took those pictures with my LG G2 phone, seems as my smartphone intensifies those bright spots, with naked eye it is much better. So is this bad or not at all? What do you think? Should i open this one also and try to ,,fix it'' as the first one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the pics:


yea if you got more money lol


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwong48*
> 
> Welp, my X-Star DP2710 just died. I bought it on Aug 5, 2013.
> 
> It was spazzing out at 120Hz a couple weeks ago. I didn't want to figure it out, so I made it 96Hz and it was fine. Now it just spazzed out to its death. Doesn't even work at 60Hz.. tried my macbook with a monoprice adapter (which was my main setup for WFH days) and that didn't work either.
> 
> So now.. I think the answer is to just buy another one. After all, I told myself that I'd rather risk 120Hz and have it die, than to live with 60Hz..
> 
> Do the multi-input ones actually not OC at all? I've already invested in the Monoprice adapter, but if I can get 60Hz over DisplayPort and 85-96Hz (96-120 preferred of course) over DVI-DL, I might want to try a multi-input one. Most likely not, though. I've read a lot of mixed information.


Mine did the same thing, also bought a few weeks after you (although used). Only the single-input DL-DVI will work for OCing.

How did yours spaz out? Mine kept blinking on/off (the video signal) and was not fixed by buying a new power adapter.


----------



## rwong48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Mine did the same thing, also bought a few weeks after you (although used). Only the single-input DL-DVI will work for OCing.
> 
> How did yours spaz out? Mine kept blinking on/off (the video signal) and was not fixed by buying a new power adapter.


First instance was the right half of the screen just displaying a warped/discolored image, and flickering between errors. I was able to fix it temporarily by loading something that took the vast majority of the screen. It worked for a few hours. A couple days later, that hack worked for a few seconds. I settled for 96Hz, which worked; I play games on a different monitor anyways, I just wanted "not 60".

Last night though.. it was just sitting there idle, suddenly the whole screen was vertical purple lines and I couldn't make the mouse out enough to change settings. I VNCed in from another machine to set it back to 60Hz. no dice.

It appears to be powering properly, but I just bought another DP2710 (lol) (DVI-DL-only version, of course), so we'll see how that its power brick goes.


----------



## themasterpiece1

Anybody get Square Trade with these monitors? Has a monitor died and Square Trade replaced them easily? Looking to maybe get one of these monitors.


----------



## Abadaman

Now i am pretty scared running my Qnix @ 120Hz, does the lifespan @ 120Hz degrade?


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Now i am pretty scared running my Qnix @ 120Hz, does the lifespan @ 120Hz degrade?


I settled in at 110hz as suggested a few pages back








Not that much of a difference and it is a good feeling to know you are under the "max" pixel clock


----------



## Shuino

I just purchased this guy here - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10

(http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362611435?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)

I just wanted to point out that on the first page of this thread we have this line right here:

*"ALL Multi-input / True10 models WON'T OVERCLOCK"*

I was able to overclock my monitor to 85Hz without seeing any sort of Frame skipping or issues over the last week.


----------



## The Source

You could have gotten a pretty nice name brand monitor for 600 dollars.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shuino*
> 
> I just purchased this guy here - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10
> 
> (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362611435?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
> 
> I just wanted to point out that on the first page of this thread we have this line right here:
> 
> *"ALL Multi-input / True10 models WON'T OVERCLOCK"*
> 
> I was able to overclock my monitor to 85Hz without seeing any sort of Frame skipping or issues over the last week.


The problem is that results are going to vary widely, and most who purchase this brand want/intend to reach 120Hz or as close to it as possible. 85Hz while an improvement over 60Hz, really isn't that substantial. And who knows what effect and longevity that will have on that monitor compared to the single input version.

I also had the blue/green/red flashing screen exiting from a game that was downsampled. I have only had this monitor a week and half. This better not mean it's going. It's not even overclocked.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shuino*
> 
> I just purchased this guy here - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10
> 
> (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362611435?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
> 
> I just wanted to point out that on the first page of this thread we have this line right here:
> 
> *"ALL Multi-input / True10 models WON'T OVERCLOCK"*
> 
> I was able to overclock my monitor to 85Hz without seeing any sort of Frame skipping or issues over the last week.


Please post a photo of http://www.testufo.com at 85Hz. Lengthen exposure time / lower shutter speed so that you are able to capture a few boxes in sequence.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> You could have gotten a pretty nice name brand monitor for 600 dollars.
> The problem is that results are going to vary widely, and most who purchase this brand want/intend to reach 120Hz or as close to it as possible. 85Hz while an improvement over 60Hz, really isn't that substantial. And who knows what effect and longevity that will have on that monitor compared to the single input version.
> 
> I also had the blue/green/red flashing screen exiting from a game that was downsampled. I have only had this monitor a week and half. This better not mean it's going. It's not even overclocked.


85Hz is quite the improvement over 60Hz. Not if it's frameskipping though. As for longevity, without knowing what display controller chip the multi-input model uses we can't know for sure.

Results do not vary widely. There hasn't been a single incident of someone getting more than 60Hz on multi-input Korean monitors without frameskipping. Hence my request to the poster above for the photo.

As for the RGB flashing, it simply means the monitor wasn't detecting a signal and entered test mode. Then, it found a signal and resumed its duties.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Please post a photo of http://www.testufo.com at 85Hz. Lengthen exposure time / lower shutter speed so that you are able to capture a few boxes in sequence.
> 85Hz is quite the improvement over 60Hz. Not if it's frameskipping though. As for longevity, without knowing what display controller chip the multi-input model uses we can't know for sure.
> 
> Results do not vary widely. There hasn't been a single incident of someone getting more than 60Hz on multi-input Korean monitors without frameskipping. Hence my request to the poster above for the photo.
> 
> As for the RGB flashing, it simply means the monitor wasn't detecting a signal and entered test mode. Then, it found a signal and resumed its duties.


I had to shut it turn it off/on to fix the issue, but thank you for the response.

I've seen a few posts from others of that monitor claiming 70+Hz but really, I don't think many would disagree that 96Hz is the minimum that the single input version are capable of achieving?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1NB1871

3rd review down. 75Hz.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435

Also claims to now overclock without frame skipping.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> I had to shut it turn it off/on to fix the issue, but thank you for the response.
> 
> I've seen a few posts from others of that monitor claiming 70+Hz but really, I don't think many would disagree that 96Hz is the minimum that the single input version are capable of achieving?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1NB1871
> 
> 3rd review down. 75Hz.
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435
> 
> Also claims to now overclock without frame skipping.


Claims. And yes, 96Hz is generally the minimum for the single-input versions.


----------



## the9quad

If at this stage in the game you by a multi input monitor and are upset it doesn't overclock, then you are the only one to blame. It's been beaten to death, no matter what the seller claims.


----------



## jameyscott

Depending on the price, I might go ahead and buy a multi input for my second system (This one will only be meant for color work and stuff since it's my editing rig) and put this to freakin' rest. Youtube video incoming!


----------



## Shuino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Please post a photo of http://www.testufo.com at 85Hz. Lengthen exposure time / lower shutter speed so that you are able to capture a few boxes in sequence.
> 85Hz is quite the improvement over 60Hz. Not if it's frameskipping though. As for longevity, without knowing what display controller chip the multi-input model uses we can't know for sure.
> 
> Results do not vary widely. There hasn't been a single incident of someone getting more than 60Hz on multi-input Korean monitors without frameskipping. Hence my request to the poster above for the photo.
> 
> As for the RGB flashing, it simply means the monitor wasn't detecting a signal and entered test mode. Then, it found a signal and resumed its duties.


Will do once I get home from work. I believe 85Hz was the best I was able to do without skipping frames. But I really only tried 96 and 120 and saw frames skipped on both.


----------



## themasterpiece1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themasterpiece1*
> 
> Anybody get Square Trade with these monitors? Has a monitor died and Square Trade replaced them easily? Looking to maybe get one of these monitors.


Anybody got any info on this?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themasterpiece1*
> 
> Anybody got any info on this?


I have a square trade warranty, I have not had to use it. They are however very legit. They have been covered in business week,yahoo finance, the wall street journal etc..


----------



## Ovrclck

Just so everyone's aware. You don't need to patch at all with 780ti's in SLI. OP needs to be updated.

Quote:


> (05-03-2014 04:25 PM)VAL Wrote:
> I have used your software/patcher for my new X-Star DP2710 monitor. I am using two 780 Ti KingPin Editions in SLI, if I read correctly I only needed to use the normal patcher - not the full - and to also only use the Nvidia Control Panel and not CRU.
> *780 Ti GPUs don't need the patch at all if you're using the NVIDIA Control Panel to add custom resolutions. The regular patch is needed if you use CRU instead.*


Straight from ToastyX


----------



## Shuino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Please post a photo of http://www.testufo.com at 85Hz. Lengthen exposure time / lower shutter speed so that you are able to capture a few boxes in sequence.
> 85Hz is quite the improvement over 60Hz. Not if it's frameskipping though. As for longevity, without knowing what display controller chip the multi-input model uses we can't know for sure.
> 
> Results do not vary widely. There hasn't been a single incident of someone getting more than 60Hz on multi-input Korean monitors without frameskipping. Hence my request to the poster above for the photo.
> 
> As for the RGB flashing, it simply means the monitor wasn't detecting a signal and entered test mode. Then, it found a signal and resumed its duties.


Sorry for the crappy blue tint but with +2 exposure that what happens on my phone.


----------



## shwarz

Anyone having issues with 1080p youtube?

Recently upgraded to a Korean 1440p qnix monitor
Running it at 96hz
Gpu : and r290 at 1150mhz core, memory stock
Amd catalyst 14.6 drivers
Also running a 1920x1080 monitor off GPU

Basically you tube lags at 1080p fullscreen or not
Have tried removing overclock- no change
Tried setting manual 2d clock- no change
Tried both chrome and Firefox same issue

Turning off hardware acceleration in flash
Works fine for 1080p and 720p

what am i missing here?
Or is the only way to run with html5?


----------



## Gualichu04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shwarz*
> 
> Anyone having issues with 1080p youtube?
> 
> Recently upgraded to a Korean 1440p qnix monitor
> Running it at 96hz
> Gpu : and r290 at 1150mhz core, memory stock
> Amd catalyst 14.6 drivers
> Also running a 1920x1080 monitor off GPU
> 
> Basically you tube lags at 1080p fullscreen or not
> Have tried removing overclock- no change
> Tried setting manual 2d clock- no change
> Tried both chrome and Firefox same issue
> 
> Turning off hardware acceleration in flash
> Works fine for 1080p and 720p
> 
> what am i missing here?
> Or is the only way to run with html5?


It randomlly stutters for me also on a the qnix 1440p at stock or overclocked on my two r9 290x's. even with hardware acel disabled or enabled.


----------



## Haas360

Hey!

So I just got another Qnix montor like my first, and tried her out.

_Bad news is the monitor flashes blue and the power brick flashes as well. Wont power on._

If I try my other power adapter from my other QNIX it works just fine.

So the adapter is dead, any ideas on what I can do?

*What can replace it? a standard universal laptop brick?*


----------



## jmstrat

I have some sapphire R9 280x's crossfired. I patched my cards and overclocked succesfully to 96hz since that's as far as I could go without seeing artifacts. However I am now getting a green screen when I play movies via the Netflix app on W8.1. I am also getting black youtube videos from time to time. The solution was to remove/restore the unpatched settings from the atikmdag-patcher-1.2.7 .zip file.... Once I restored these settings the problems went away but now I am back to 60hz, is there a way to overclock my qnix and patch the cards without causing the Netflix green screen and sometimes black youtube videos?


http://imgur.com/dO5cG

This is what I see before I restore my patched settings. Any help is appreciated, thanks.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shuino*
> 
> Sorry for the crappy blue tint but with +2 exposure that what happens on my phone.


Hmmm. 85Hz skipping to 60Hz means 25 frameskips for 85 frames, meaning 1 skip every 3.4 frames. So every 3 or 4 frames, there should be one frameskip. Your photo shows 5 frames in sequence without frameskip, so either it's not skipping to 60Hz or it's not skipping at all. This is 99% proof, I wish you had a camera with a longer exposure time. If you are able to get hold of one just to take a better photo with more boxes, we would all be grateful as this looks like proof that the True10 will overclock to 85Hz without frameskipping, given that other people with the True10 chip in and prove that this applies for all the True10 monitors.

By the way, is your pixel clock close to 330MHz? What timings are you using? Have you tried tighter timings and went further (~90Hz)?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Hmmm. 85Hz skipping to 60Hz means 25 frameskips for 85 frames, meaning 1 skip every 3.4 frames. So every 3 or 4 frames, there should be one frameskip. Your photo shows 5 frames in sequence without frameskip, so either it's not skipping to 60Hz or it's not skipping at all. This is 99% proof, I wish you had a camera with a longer exposure time. If you are able to get hold of one just to take a better photo with more boxes, we would all be grateful as this looks like proof that the True10 will overclock to 85Hz without frameskipping, given that other people with the True10 chip in and prove that this applies for all the True10 monitors.
> 
> By the way, is your pixel clock close to 330MHz? What timings are you using? Have you tried tighter timings and went further (~90Hz)?


For what it's worth, that particular True10 multi is different. It only has dual link dvi and HDMI. So it may not apply to other True10 multi with displayport and VGA.


----------



## Shuino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Hmmm. 85Hz skipping to 60Hz means 25 frameskips for 85 frames, meaning 1 skip every 3.4 frames. So every 3 or 4 frames, there should be one frameskip. Your photo shows 5 frames in sequence without frameskip, so either it's not skipping to 60Hz or it's not skipping at all. This is 99% proof, I wish you had a camera with a longer exposure time. If you are able to get hold of one just to take a better photo with more boxes, we would all be grateful as this looks like proof that the True10 will overclock to 85Hz without frameskipping, given that other people with the True10 chip in and prove that this applies for all the True10 monitors.
> 
> By the way, is your pixel clock close to 330MHz? What timings are you using? Have you tried tighter timings and went further (~90Hz)?


I believe I have a digital camera somewhere around the house. I assume it will have better exposure settings then my Nexus 5 and I will try again. Also, off the top of my head I don't remember the pixel clock and timings, I will have to check when I get home today. The only 3 refresh rates I tried were 120, 96 and 85. I saw skipping on 120 and 96 and not on 85. If it ends up the 85Hz really is not skipping I will move it up to 90Hz and check that as well.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shwarz*
> 
> Anyone having issues with 1080p youtube?
> 
> Recently upgraded to a Korean 1440p qnix monitor
> Running it at 96hz
> Gpu : and r290 at 1150mhz core, memory stock
> Amd catalyst 14.6 drivers
> Also running a 1920x1080 monitor off GPU
> 
> Basically you tube lags at 1080p fullscreen or not
> Have tried removing overclock- no change
> Tried setting manual 2d clock- no change
> Tried both chrome and Firefox same issue
> 
> Turning off hardware acceleration in flash
> Works fine for 1080p and 720p
> 
> what am i missing here?
> Or is the only way to run with html5?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gualichu04*
> 
> It randomlly stutters for me also on a the qnix 1440p at stock or overclocked on my two r9 290x's. even with hardware acel disabled or enabled.


Did the same thing for me (Qnix 96Hz) when using Chrome, but not in Firefox. I installed Adobe Flash Plugin for Chrome and now works just fine.


----------



## Jetlitheone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themasterpiece1*
> 
> Anybody got any info on this?


replaced 2 previous monitors for me well reimbursed.


----------



## Piercy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> replaced 2 previous monitors for me well reimbursed.


How did the process go for you, if you don't mind me asking? I'm at the edge of a new build, and I would love to pick one or two of these up - but I definitely want them to last at least 3 years. Any of your insight would be very much appreciated!


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> So I just got another Qnix montor like my first, and tried her out.
> 
> _Bad news is the monitor flashes blue and the power brick flashes as well. Wont power on._
> 
> If I try my other power adapter from my other QNIX it works just fine.
> 
> So the adapter is dead, any ideas on what I can do?
> 
> *What can replace it? a standard universal laptop brick?*


If you guys have ideas on this I would be appreciative.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> If you guys have ideas on this I would be appreciative.


Just buy one off ebay.


----------



## Abadaman

Ok, so i just finished fixing my backlight bleed without opening anything, i just put paper underneath the plastic cover, took me around 3+ hours tweaking it, putting different amount of layers of paper etc., anyway, here are the pics before and after. This method reduced my BLB by around 70-80percent,(had blb only down) in eye it is unseenable now, rest seems as IPS/PLS glow. What do you guys think?


----------



## jog4020

QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE 27" 2560x1440 Overclockable Monitor
overclocked to 75hz 
frame skipping at 96hz.My question is,should i use 72hz or 75hz?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jog4020*
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE 27" 2560x1440 Overclockable Monitor
> overclocked to 75hz
> frame skipping at 96hz.My question is,should i use 72hz or 75hz?


You wasted your money.

The multi-input displays frameskip above 60hz

They also have two frames of input lag.

Edit - Unless there's some magical new multi-input model that doesn't frameskip, I rarely visit this thread anymore.


----------



## Sonah

Hi

Will my AMD Firepro W5000 Graphic Card can be connect to the monitor?

DVI: *One dual-link DVI-I
*


the Qnix QX2710 has *DVI-D* dual Link


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sonah*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Will my AMD Firepro W5000 Graphic Card can be connect to the monitor?
> 
> DVI: *One dual-link DVI-I
> *
> 
> 
> the Qnix QX2710 has *DVI-D* dual Link


Yes it can.

The connection just won't be utilizing the optional analog connection. (extra pins)


----------



## jog4020

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> You wasted your money.
> 
> The multi-input displays frameskip above 60hz
> 
> They also have two frames of input lag.
> 
> Edit - Unless there's some magical new multi-input model that doesn't frameskip, I rarely visit this thread anymore.


Not a waste if you want multi input
They also have two frames of input lag. ?


----------



## jameyscott

I'm going to be buying a Multi Input model for my second system where I will be doing my video editing. It's going to be perfect for what I want. No reason for me to get the overclockable version. For someone one a budget for video editing, this is definitely a great monitor. Granted, I could get better color accuracy at the same-ish price, but it would be 1080P and that just doesn't fly. I can't believe how much I hate 1080P for anything other than watching videos on my TV. Everything else.. 1440P or no thanks.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jog4020*
> 
> Not a waste if you want multi input
> They also have two frames of input lag. ?


I assumed you wanted the higher refresh rate, that's why almost everyone buys one of these, well, that and due to the combination of what's offered. I also based it off the fact you posted a frameskip test.

Input lag - the delay between anything you do (hit a button, click a mouse, move the cursor) to the time it's displayed on the screen.

The multi-input IPS (and related panel tech) displays have a scaler which adds to the displays input lag (TN panels suffer from such a small amount that it's irrelevant, although there are a few that are quite bad from what I've read).

The reviews show it as having two frames of input lag (23-28ms)

It bothering people is subjective, but most people get the single input model which at most has 3ms of input lag (less than 1 frame), or even less than 1ms at higher refresh rates.


----------



## jog4020

I overclocked it to see if it could be done.
I bought this monitor for the multi input
and because similar monitors locally
cost over twice as much.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jog4020*
> 
> I overclocked it to see if it could be done.
> I bought this monitor for the multi input
> and because similar monitors locally
> cost over twice as much.


Then you should be satisfied with it.


----------



## jog4020

I am,but as i asked in the original post,
is there any difference between running
at 72hz as opposed to 75hz?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jog4020*
> 
> I am,but as i asked in the original post,
> is there any difference between running
> at 72hz as opposed to 75hz?


Not that I'm aware of. (well, there is a 3 frame difference







)


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jog4020*
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE 27" 2560x1440 Overclockable Monitor
> overclocked to 75hz
> frame skipping at 96hz.My question is,should i use 72hz or 75hz?


72Hz (71.928Hz actually) if you want to playback 24FPS (23.976FPS actual) videos perfectly, without any frame repeats. 75Hz is suitable for 25FPS movies without having to drop a frame every second. I say keep both, use 72Hz for video (MPC-HC could help by autoswitching) and use 75Hz for everything else. Both do not handle 30FPS video perfectly, so you could use 60Hz for that. 75Hz will use 3:2 pulldown to display 30FPS video just like 60Hz does for 24FPS video (frame repeats 2-3-2-3).

And yes, confirmed, your monitor does not frameskip at 75Hz to 60Hz, just to let all the others know and be sure. It should have skipped every 5th box @ 75Hz, and every 6th box @ 72Hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> You wasted your money.
> 
> The multi-input displays frameskip above 60hz
> 
> They also have two frames of input lag.
> 
> Edit - Unless there's some magical new multi-input model that doesn't frameskip, I rarely visit this thread anymore.


Bingo, some of them (or some specific model of the True10, as indicated previously, DL-DVI + HDMI model) seem to not frameskip at all refresh rates above 60Hz, but only those that they cannot handle (96Hz, 120Hz, etc...). It seems to me that this is the 330MHz dual-link DVI pixel clock in effect for the multi-input models, given that they have to adhere more to spec than the A/D bypass boards on the single-input models for sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jog4020*
> 
> Not a waste if you want multi input
> They also have two frames of input lag. ?


Yes, they do. The True10 model does. Not sure if the True10 DL-DVI + HDMI model does, seeing as it uses a different board than the True10 with more inputs (which has been found to have 2 frames of input lag). Would be interesting if you have another monitor to test against (cloning, however, doesn't give accurate results for various reasons).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I assumed you wanted the higher refresh rate, that's why almost everyone buys one of these, well, that and due to the combination of what's offered. I also based it off the fact you posted a frameskip test.
> 
> Input lag - the delay between anything you do (hit a button, click a mouse, move the cursor) to the time it's displayed on the screen.
> 
> The multi-input IPS (and related panel tech) displays have a scaler which adds to the displays input lag (TN panels suffer from such a small amount that it's irrelevant, although there are a few that are quite bad from what I've read).
> 
> The reviews show it as having two frames of input lag (23-28ms)
> 
> It bothering people is subjective, but most people get the single input model which at most has 3ms of input lag (less than 1 frame), or even less than 1ms at higher refresh rates.


Not TN panels, monitors that have TN panels. It's not a TN vs. IPS thing. Some IPS monitors have some of the lowest input lag figures out there.

The Qnix might not have 1ms of input lag at higher refresh rates. If the input lag figure gets halved at 120Hz compared to 60Hz, then that's 1-1.5ms. If it doesn't, it still remains at 2-3ms. One figure placed it at 6.4ms but I'm not sure, some other sources show 2-3ms. Doesn't matter much, anyways, insignificant differences. The single-input displays are lagless.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I'm going to be buying a Multi Input model for my second system where I will be doing my video editing. It's going to be perfect for what I want. No reason for me to get the overclockable version. For someone one a budget for video editing, this is definitely a great monitor. Granted, I could get better color accuracy at the same-ish price, but it would be 1080P and that just doesn't fly. I can't believe how much I hate 1080P for anything other than watching videos on my TV. Everything else.. 1440P or no thanks.


Note that the True10 does not use the same PLS panel as the single-input overclockable models. It uses a worse AH-VA panel with lower contrast ratio, and likely worse color accuracy (but I'm not sure). 2 frames of input lag would affect everything you do on the monitor, and I know I'd rather no additional latency at 60Hz than what's already there from a 60Hz path (render + wait for VSync + display lag + scanout).

Unless you urgently need multiple inputs, it makes sense to go for the single-input model for a PC-focused video editing monitor.


----------



## kevinsbane

Sheesh.

Now we have yet another monitor type to keep track of, which is overclockable but not overclockable, and is generally inferior D:

I guess the only thing we have left to check out on the DVI/HDMI multi is whether you can feed it a 1080p signal via DVI or HDMI from a laptop. If that works, then that *might* be an OK compromise for people that want to connect laptops to their monitor as well as overclock...


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 72Hz (71.928Hz actually) if you want to playback 24FPS (23.976FPS actual) videos perfectly, without any frame repeats. 75Hz is suitable for 25FPS movies without having to drop a frame every second. I say keep both, use 72Hz for video (MPC-HC could help by autoswitching) and use 75Hz for everything else. Both do not handle 30FPS video perfectly, so you could use 60Hz for that. 75Hz will use 3:2 pulldown to display 30FPS video just like 60Hz does for 24FPS video (frame repeats 2-3-2-3).
> 
> And yes, confirmed, your monitor does not frameskip at 75Hz to 60Hz, just to let all the others know and be sure. It should have skipped every 5th box @ 75Hz, and every 6th box @ 72Hz.
> Bingo, some of them (or some specific model of the True10, as indicated previously, DL-DVI + HDMI model) seem to not frameskip at all refresh rates above 60Hz, but only those that they cannot handle (96Hz, 120Hz, etc...). It seems to me that this is the 330MHz dual-link DVI pixel clock in effect for the multi-input models, given that they have to adhere more to spec than the A/D bypass boards on the single-input models for sure.
> Yes, they do. The True10 model does. Not sure if the True10 DL-DVI + HDMI model does, seeing as it uses a different board than the True10 with more inputs (which has been found to have 2 frames of input lag). Would be interesting if you have another monitor to test against (cloning, however, doesn't give accurate results for various reasons).
> Not TN panels, monitors that have TN panels. It's not a TN vs. IPS thing. Some IPS monitors have some of the lowest input lag figures out there.
> 
> The Qnix might not have 1ms of input lag at higher refresh rates. If the input lag figure gets halved at 120Hz compared to 60Hz, then that's 1-1.5ms. If it doesn't, it still remains at 2-3ms. One figure placed it at 6.4ms but I'm not sure, some other sources show 2-3ms. Doesn't matter much, anyways, insignificant differences. The single-input displays are lagless.
> Note that the True10 does not use the same PLS panel as the single-input overclockable models. It uses a worse AH-VA panel with lower contrast ratio, and likely worse color accuracy (but I'm not sure). 2 frames of input lag would affect everything you do on the monitor, and I know I'd rather no additional latency at 60Hz than what's already there from a 60Hz path (render + wait for VSync + display lag + scanout).
> 
> Unless you urgently need multiple inputs, it makes sense to go for the single-input model for a PC-focused video editing monitor.


I was unaware that all of the multi input were VA. Guess it's only single input for me!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jog4020*
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE 27" 2560x1440 Overclockable Monitor
> overclocked to 75hz
> frame skipping at 96hz.My question is,should i use 72hz or 75hz?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> You wasted your money.
> 
> The multi-input displays frameskip above 60hz
> 
> They also have two frames of input lag.
> 
> Edit - Unless there's some magical new multi-input model that doesn't frameskip, I rarely visit this thread anymore.
Click to expand...

Confusing I know ... but there are recent developments proving that one variant of the True10, the "Multi" (HDMI), not the DPmulti, will OC to 85Hz without frame dropping ... proof is in the screenshots ... I've updated my links *HERE* to reflect this.

And Yaz gives an excellent explanation below









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 72Hz (71.928Hz actually) if you want to playback 24FPS (23.976FPS actual) videos perfectly, without any frame repeats. 75Hz is suitable for 25FPS movies without having to drop a frame every second. I say keep both, use 72Hz for video (MPC-HC could help by autoswitching) and use 75Hz for everything else. Both do not handle 30FPS video perfectly, so you could use 60Hz for that. 75Hz will use 3:2 pulldown to display 30FPS video just like 60Hz does for 24FPS video (frame repeats 2-3-2-3).
> 
> And yes, confirmed, your monitor does not frameskip at 75Hz to 60Hz, just to let all the others know and be sure. It should have skipped every 5th box @ 75Hz, and every 6th box @ 72Hz.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Bingo, some of them (or some specific model of the True10, as indicated previously, DL-DVI + HDMI model) seem to not frameskip at all refresh rates above 60Hz, but only those that they cannot handle (96Hz, 120Hz, etc...). It seems to me that this is the 330MHz dual-link DVI pixel clock in effect for the multi-input models, given that they have to adhere more to spec than the A/D bypass boards on the single-input models for sure.
> Yes, they do. The True10 model does. Not sure if the True10 DL-DVI + HDMI model does, seeing as it uses a different board than the True10 with more inputs (which has been found to have 2 frames of input lag). Would be interesting if you have another monitor to test against (cloning, however, doesn't give accurate results for various reasons).
> Not TN panels, monitors that have TN panels. It's not a TN vs. IPS thing. Some IPS monitors have some of the lowest input lag figures out there.
> 
> The Qnix might not have 1ms of input lag at higher refresh rates. If the input lag figure gets halved at 120Hz compared to 60Hz, then that's 1-1.5ms. If it doesn't, it still remains at 2-3ms. One figure placed it at 6.4ms but I'm not sure, some other sources show 2-3ms. Doesn't matter much, anyways, insignificant differences. The single-input displays are lagless.
> Note that the True10 does not use the same PLS panel as the single-input overclockable models. It uses a worse AH-VA panel with lower contrast ratio, and likely worse color accuracy (but I'm not sure). 2 frames of input lag would affect everything you do on the monitor, and I know I'd rather no additional latency at 60Hz than what's already there from a 60Hz path (render + wait for VSync + display lag + scanout).
> 
> Unless you urgently need multiple inputs, it makes sense to go for the single-input model for a PC-focused video editing monitor
> 
> 
> .


Awesom! I'm linking this in my True10 link above +R








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Sheesh.
> 
> Now we have yet another monitor type to keep track of, which is overclockable but not overclockable, and is generally inferior D:
> 
> I guess the only thing we have left to check out on the DVI/HDMI multi is whether you can feed it a 1080p signal via DVI or HDMI from a laptop. If that works, then that *might* be an OK compromise for people that want to connect laptops to their monitor as well as overclock...


Sheeeeeeezzz is right! ... funny how you and I were the 1st to predict this mess way back when the True10's 1st hit the market ... and thanks to QNIX's horrid naming conventions it's only gotten worse ... and now the OP needs updating again


----------



## wegotbellys

Whenever i connect my QNIX monitor via the DVI-D input on my gpu it will go to test mode but when i connect via DVI-i it will work, can anyone help me with that since i need to use the DVI-I input for my VGA monitor.

Thanks


----------



## B-rock

Got my 2nd qnix from IPSLEDMONITORS.com (14 day money back and can return to their address in the U.S. so no overseas shipping). I had one monitor die on me within 2 weeks last time and they refunded me and this time around we will see.

I was able to hit 120hz on this monitor without any issues or additional tweaking of the settings, 0 dead pixels as well. Maybe I'll see if it can do 144 hz or not.

Should I tweak the other settings for longevity or did we determine that wasn't anything to be worried about?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B-rock*
> 
> Got my 2nd qnix from IPSLEDMONITORS.com (14 day money back and can return to their address in the U.S. so no overseas shipping). I had one monitor die on me within 2 weeks last time and they refunded me and this time around we will see.
> 
> I was able to hit 120hz on this monitor without any issues or additional tweaking of the settings, 0 dead pixels as well. Maybe I'll see if it can do 144 hz or not.
> 
> Should I tweak the other settings for longevity or did we determine that wasn't anything to be worried about?


There hasn't been any real proof on the long term effects of having the monitor OC'd to 120Hz and above. I don't see a diff between 120 or 110. Currently my Qnix is rocking 110hz for everyday/gaming and 120hz for movies and such.


----------



## AznCQ

Got another QNIX from green-sum this week. Got lucky again, monitor overclocks to 120hz with no issues, no dead pixels, light bleed looks minimal







rocking dual qnix qx2710 and loving it!!









My first monitor I bought last year, running 120hz 24/7 for about 1 year now.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> There hasn't been any real proof on the long term effects of having the monitor OC'd to 120Hz and above. I don't see a diff between 120 or 110. Currently my Qnix is rocking 110hz for everyday/gaming and 120hz for movies and such.


Why do you need 120Hz for movies? 72Hz more than does an adequate job of displaying 24FPS content perfectly. Clocking to 120Hz in order to match a multiple of 24 is pretty excessive, as settling for 24 x 3 = 72Hz is going to give much better results than going all the way to 24 x 5 = 120Hz where you get higher gamma shift, uniformity issues, image retention, and potential for instability. Unless you use SVP for motion interpolation at 120Hz, there's no point in using 120Hz for movies.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Why do you need 120Hz for movies? 72Hz more than does an adequate job of displaying 24FPS content perfectly. Clocking to 120Hz in order to match a multiple of 24 is pretty excessive, as settling for 24 x 3 = 72Hz is going to give much better results than going all the way to 24 x 5 = 120Hz where you get higher gamma shift, uniformity issues, image retention, and potential for instability. Unless you use SVP for motion interpolation at 120Hz, there's no point in using 120Hz for movies.


I cant live without 120hz and SVP for movies, I love it. Same with my 120hz TV with smooth motion. I love the soap opera effect.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Why do you need 120Hz for movies? 72Hz more than does an adequate job of displaying 24FPS content perfectly. Clocking to 120Hz in order to match a multiple of 24 is pretty excessive, as settling for 24 x 3 = 72Hz is going to give much better results than going all the way to 24 x 5 = 120Hz where you get higher gamma shift, uniformity issues, image retention, and potential for instability. Unless you use SVP for motion interpolation at 120Hz, there's no point in using 120Hz for movies.


I forgot to add that I would be using SVP with 120Hz. My bad








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I cant live without 120hz and SVP for movies, I love it. Same with my 120hz TV with smooth motion. I love the soap opera effect.


Yep! My TV is 240Hz. Need that realistic look. Spoiled I guess.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I cant live without 120hz and SVP for movies, I love it. Same with my 120hz TV with smooth motion. I love the soap opera effect.


120hz TV's aren't capable of 120 unique frames, the most it could do is refresh 60 frames twice, and that's only if you're getting 60 frames, which only some games on a console would supply.

Edit - It just smacked me in the face that you don't have it for viewing that many frames, you have it for it being a multiple of another framerate and some other features, my mistake.


----------



## Kelro

I have read hundreds of reviews both on this forum and elsewhere, but I am still apprehensive due to the lack of warranty. Please could someone give me some piece of mind, and recommend the best seller for me to buy from if I am going to push the button on this.

I am in the UK as I'm sure that is relevant to which seller to contact.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> 120hz TV's aren't capable of 120 unique frames, the most it could do is refresh 60 frames twice, and that's only if you're getting 60 frames, which only some games on a console would supply.
> 
> Edit - It just smacked me in the face that you don't have it for viewing that many frames, you have it for it being a multiple of another framerate and some other features, my mistake.


That's actually not true. There are a few select TVs that are capable of outputting 120hz.

EDIT: http://www.blurbusters.com/overclock/120hz-pc-to-tv/


----------



## jog4020

thanks for the thorough explanation regarding 72hz vs 75hz yasamoka.
No laptop to test on this monitor but the ps3 works great via HDMI.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelro*
> 
> I have read hundreds of reviews both on this forum and elsewhere, but I am still apprehensive due to the lack of warranty. Please could someone give me some piece of mind, and recommend the best seller for me to buy from if I am going to push the button on this.
> 
> I am in the UK as I'm sure that is relevant to which seller to contact.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Accessorieswhole has 1 year warranty plus you can buy square trade(not sure because you're UK if square trade is a thing there or not)... nothing to worry about


----------



## wegotbellys

I am using 280x and used the patcher and that worked. I choose a 110hz resolution in cru and move it up, after i restart my computer there is no change i tried multiple refresh rates but no change. Any help?


----------



## jog4020

go to amd control centre desktop management/desktop properties
and change refresh rate there.


----------



## wegotbellys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jog4020*
> 
> go to amd control centre desktop management/desktop properties
> and change refresh rate there.


It only shows a 60hz option


----------



## jog4020

Did you install atikmdag patcher then CRU first.must restart after installing.
Worked for me.


----------



## wegotbellys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jog4020*
> 
> Did you install atikmdag patcher then CRU first.must restart after installing.
> Worked for me.


i used the patcher then set my custom resolution then restart my comp but no luck ::?

Anyone know how i can edit the registry file on my comp to set a custom refresh rate?


----------



## ForceD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synthetickiller*
> 
> I'm not aware of any active converter that will push more than 60hz, but I also didn't do that much research as it "seems" 60hz is basically the standard for 1440p/1600p screens right now (industry wise, I know we are outliers).
> 
> I have yet to try the sli driver set up & all of that jazz, but the converter itself is the problem.


With my sli titans I am using this adapter for one of my monitors

http://www.accellcables.com/collections/adapters/products/ultraav-displayport-or-mini-displayport-to-dvi-d-dual-link-adapter-with-3d-support

fortunately can clock the monitor to 96hz, but not any higher like it could directly driven via dvi.


----------



## jog4020

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wegotbellys*
> 
> i used the patcher then set my custom resolution then restart my comp but no luck ::?
> 
> Anyone know how i can edit the registry file on my comp to set a custom refresh rate?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club

This thread will explain all you need to know.


----------



## the9quad

Just a heads up, my Raptr updated and now GVR and the VCE acceleration for twitch streaming and recording are working at 120hz again. It was previously broken, and miracle of all miracles a product by AMD has been fixed to work with our pixel patch!


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Got my Qnix a few days ago, overclocked it to 96hz, checked for frame skipping @testufo, valid. Yesterday ran the test again but it says 60hz, although is set at 96hz in Nvidia Panel. Switched back to 60, than back to 96, restarted, the whole shebang. Has my monitor become non-overclock-able all of a sudden?
What am I missing here?

Edit: It's the single input model.


----------



## wegotbellys

kinda same issue here


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kelro*
> 
> I have read hundreds of reviews both on this forum and elsewhere, but I am still apprehensive due to the lack of warranty. Please could someone give me some piece of mind, and recommend the best seller for me to buy from if I am going to push the button on this.
> 
> I am in the UK as I'm sure that is relevant to which seller to contact.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


What about something like this if you're scared (and rightly so) regarding the lack of warranty ?

http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Monitors+%26+TVs/26+inch+%2B/27%22+DGM+IPS-2701WPH+Widescreen+IPS+Monitor+-+Black+?productId=55127

I've no idea though how the DGM compares to the QNIX. Casing looks the same, but I think there's an LG panel in there as opposed to the QNIX Sammy one. Don't know if the PCB is the same.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> What about something like this if you're scared (and rightly so) regarding the lack of warranty ?
> 
> http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Monitors+%26+TVs/26+inch+%2B/27%22+DGM+IPS-2701WPH+Widescreen+IPS+Monitor+-+Black+?productId=55127
> 
> I've no idea though how the DGM compares to the QNIX. Casing looks the same, but I think there's an LG panel in there as opposed to the QNIX Sammy one. Don't know if the PCB is the same.


OK - I'm guessing the above can't be overclocked due to it being multi input.
I never even got the chance to overclock my QNIX before it died on me, so you can't miss what you've never experienced... :-(


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Just a heads up, my Raptr updated and now GVR and the VCE acceleration for twitch streaming and recording are working at 120hz again. It was previously broken, and miracle of all miracles a product by AMD has been fixed to work with our pixel patch!


Can the recording go up to 120FPS, though?


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

With 3 monitors and 1 nvidia GPU is it even possible to have the memory downclock on the card? Is it just working too much to keep the 3 displays active to downclock?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Can the recording go up to 120FPS, though?


It only does 60 fps recording. I think there is a limit with AMD APP/VCE accelerated encoding, that means nothing above 1080p or 60fps. I know afterburner will let you select >1080p and 120fps, I am not sure it works though, never tried doing it, because I usually just stream, I very rarely record.

The issue previously was with AMD you have to use the pixel patch to overclock the QNIX to 120hz, and this would break the AMD APP/VCE encoding. Works now though.


----------



## stingray1337

I got my qnix in the mail and it is awesome! Overclocked to 110 hz right away but stayed at 96. Ive got a question though guys, in my sli setup only my first card(monitor connected) is running 10 degrees hotter in idle. Any fixes for this? (i used nvcp and patch to overclock) Thanks!
EDIT: dug thru here and it seems that my card is not downclocking its memory. Anyone got timings for 96hz nvidia profile?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stingray1337*
> 
> I got my qnix in the mail and it is awesome! Overclocked to 110 hz right away but stayed at 96. Ive got a question though guys, in my sli setup only my first card(monitor connected) is running 10 degrees hotter in idle. Any fixes for this? (i used nvcp and patch to overclock) Thanks!
> EDIT: dug thru here and it seems that my card is not downclocking its memory. Anyone got timings for 96hz nvidia profile?


What are you system specs? NVidia 780ti's don't need the patch at all. Check the OP, there's a couple examples that downclock. You should be fine at 96hz using stock timings. Even with 110hz.


----------



## ref

Hey all,

I'm looking at picking one of these up when 880's come out (gonna be getting 2) so that should be enough power to run 60+ fps maxed out for most games.

I got a question though, I'm interested in overclocking it obviously, but I'm curious for those who have, how jarring is it say, going from 120 fps (if you're at 120hz) to say 60, or if there's constant fluctuations for that matter.

I'm kinda worried about that being potentially annoying.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I'm looking at picking one of these up when 880's come out (gonna be getting 2) so that should be enough power to run 60+ fps maxed out for most games.
> 
> I got a question though, I'm interested in overclocking it obviously, but I'm curious for those who have, how jarring is it say, going from 120 fps (if you're at 120hz) to say 60, or if there's constant fluctuations for that matter.
> 
> I'm kinda worried about that being potentially annoying.


I wouldn't describe it as jarring but the dips are definitely noticeable. SLI 880's shouldn't have a problem with it. When I was mining with crossfire disabled (running the miner on the second GPU) a single 280X never dropped below 85-90 playing BF4 with medium settings. An 880 should blow that away easily.


----------



## stingray1337

i5 3570k @4.4ghz
2x EVGA GTX 670 2gb
8gb Vengeance
Z77x-UD5H
That is my setup and i tried with/without patch and it is still the same


----------



## chestnuts

Hey, I have a quick question regarding updating the graphic card drivers.

I've been running 120Hz on r9 290x and amd 13.12 driver all good for a few months now, but I think it might be a time for an update of the drivers, currently available version is 14.4.

I was just wondering if there is any risk of incompatibility or something. Usually I follow my "if it works, don't touch it rule" but I might be missing out on some enhancements newer drivers provide.

What's everyone experience and what process do you usually follow when it comes to updating drivers?

Thanks


----------



## tocirahl

If anyone around Austin, TX wants to borrow a colorimeter to calibrate their monitor at higher frequencies, please PM me. I'd be happy to lend one out to you. It's helped my monitor color a lot since none of the profiles posted work very well.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tocirahl*
> 
> If anyone around Austin, TX wants to borrow a colorimeter to calibrate their monitor at higher frequencies, please PM me. I'd be happy to lend one out to you. It's helped my monitor color a lot since none of the profiles posted work very well.


What colorimeter are you using?


----------



## tocirahl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What colorimeter are you using?


Cheapo Spyder4Express, but it works well enough when paired with ArgyllCMS. Better than nothing!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tocirahl*
> 
> Cheapo Spyder4Express, but it works well enough when paired with ArgyllCMS. Better than nothing!


No, the sensor is good. It's the same sensor used in the Spyder4Elite package. However, it has trouble measuring low IRE grayscale (near-black and black).

I have one. But I bought the i1DP recently and have been using that.


----------



## tocirahl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> No, the sensor is good. It's the same sensor used in the Spyder4Elite package. However, it has trouble measuring low IRE grayscale (near-black and black).
> 
> I have one. But I bought the i1DP recently and have been using that.


Yup that's why I use ArgyllCMS







turns a $70 colorimeter into a $200+ colorimeter. The near-black thing is quite annoying and it is annoyingly slow, but the colors look good afterwards, so no complaints









I was thinking about getting the i1, but I don't think my eyes are good enough to tell the difference.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tocirahl*
> 
> Yup that's why I use ArgyllCMS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> turns a $70 colorimeter into a $200+ colorimeter. The near-black thing is quite annoying and it is annoyingly slow, but the colors look good afterwards, so no complaints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about getting the i1, but I don't think my eyes are good enough to tell the difference.


Thing is the i1 is consistent; gets fantastic results every...single...time. Precisely what I was expecting when I upgraded. Got me better results than the Spyder particularly on my laptop (Lenovo IdeaPad Yoga 2 Pro). The Spyder caused a slightly reddish tint that I was able to notice by eyesight, but it was slight. The i1DP fixed that. Last time I noticed my laptop display turned slightly bluish. Measured and it was 6750K. Made a new profile and it was back to normal, and looked neutral again (as far as 6500K goes anyway).

I say, if you can afford it and like to keep your screens accurate (as far as grayscale calibration goes), then go for it. Or at least the Colormunki Display which, mind, is not supported by 3rd-party software without reverse-engineered drivers. So you'll find that ArgyllCMS supports it, but not via the SDK made available by X-Rite (unlike the i1 which has an SDK). Similar if not identical hardware, although X-Rite quotes a measurement speed difference (software or hardware, no ideas; little data available online in that regard). I also believe the i1DP can measure refresh rate in order to make measurements of refresh displays (think CRTs, etc...) more accurate, but the Display might not be able to.

You won't get HUGE differences, but you'll get consistent ones. And the i1DP is much ... much faster. And more portable, and easier to seal out ambient light to get accurate measurements regardless of ambient lighting conditions.


----------



## winterkid09

For anybody using this monitor with the patched drivers and overclocking, you may be familiar with a browser issue when you try to watch embedded html5/flash videos on youtube/facebook and a few other places? For me after the video played for 10 seconds, the image would flicker and stutter uncontrollably while the audio continued to play. It also sort of made my system hang until it recovered. My old solution was to disable hardware acceleration (Chrome and Firefox affected equally for me)

HOWEVER, now that I have installed the 64-bit version of Google Chrome, I can run with hardware acceleration on or off with no problems whatsoever. It's also so smooth with hardware acceleration off that I can't tell the difference in some scroll tests. So it's the best of both worlds.

So if you have that issue, You should give it a shot ^^

http://www.overclock.net/t/1509596/neowin-google-has-released-chrome-37-64-bit-to-stable-channel


----------



## Sempre

Great info yasamoka +rep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterkid09*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For anybody using this monitor with the patched drivers and overclocking, you may be familiar with a browser issue when you try to watch embedded html5/flash videos on youtube/facebook and a few other places? For me after the video played for 10 seconds, the image would flicker and stutter uncontrollably while the audio continued to play. It also sort of made my system hang until it recovered. My old solution was to disable hardware acceleration (Chrome and Firefox affected equally for me)
> 
> HOWEVER, now that I have installed the 64-bit version of Google Chrome, I can run with hardware acceleration on or off with no problems whatsoever. It's also so smooth with hardware acceleration off that I can't tell the difference in some scroll tests. So it's the best of both worlds.
> 
> So if you have that issue, You should give it a shot ^^
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1509596/neowin-google-has-released-chrome-37-64-bit-to-stable-channel


Nice. I wish there was a 64bit firefox though since i dont use chrome.


----------



## winterkid09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Nice. I wish there was a 64bit firefox though since i dont use chrome.


Yeah I think they're preparing to launch it in the near future.

And acctually, I stand corrected. The 64-bit only helps a little, I started watching more videos to maybe set it off and unfortunately it started stuttering uncontrollably and the screen went black like normal again.







Of course only in full screen. I suppose I can handle leaving hardware acceleration off though because with 64-bit chrome, the software rendering is fast enough for me to not be able to tell the difference. For the chrome users out there, I still recommend trying it


----------



## stingray1337

Wierd thing happened. I was using my monitor at 96 hz like always i launched a game and the monitor went into test mode. I didnt know what to do so i turned off the computer right away. when i turned it back on half of the screen was white while the other half was working as usual then i got scared so i rebooted again and then this time that half of the screen had very white colors but everything was still visible. i ran dead/stuck pixel youtube videos for about half n hr and then i think its starting to work again (reoverclocked).
Should i just run it at 60 hz for the longevity of this monitor?


----------



## B-rock

I've been noticing this when moving windows across my monitor, that white behind the calculator is what is happening. That is a direct screenshot, is that ghosting? It can get crazy long on some windows.

Is there a way to fix this if that's the case? I'm OC'd on 120hz.

Edit: It does this on 60hz as well.



Edit2: Here is a big example of it even at 110hz


----------



## F1Seb

I ordered my monitor and it came in today. When I was going through the dead pixel test right on black background this showed up:



Originally I thought I had a lot of dead pixels. But then that glob of yellowish discoloration doesn't show up on any of the other colors in the dead pixel test. Is this some sort of backlight bleed glob that has showed it's ugly head? I had to take the shot at a slight angle to make it more prominent. It's still pretty visible if you're looking straight ahead on it.









Any ideas or suggestions?


----------



## B-rock

Edit: Disregard, went through some previous posts.


----------



## gobblebox

Does anyone know why my QNIX Evolution II almost always flickers & seizures when coming out of standby mode? My Sapphire Tri-X OC r9 290 is OCed to 1135/1475 with plenty of voltage & power to run stable in even the most GPU intensive games, yet the monitor completely spazzes out when simply coming out of standby mode. The only option I have when this happens is to hard shut the PC down & every time I do that, it feels like I'm smothering someone with a pillow. Does anyone know what the issue is? I only have it OCed to 96hz (even though it can do 120 w/o any problems) and the cable is rock solid (went through 4 cables to find one that would actually let me hit 120hz). Any ideas? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated! Complete rig information is in my signature.


----------



## MaloModo

I did a quick search but couldn't find an answer I have the QX2710LED with Matte finish. Wonder what is ok to use to clean the screen. As in what "liquid' and/or "cloth".


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaloModo*
> 
> I did a quick search but couldn't find an answer I have the QX2710LED with Matte finish. Wonder what is ok to use to clean the screen. As in what "liquid' and/or "cloth".


Microfiber cloth and a bit of water should do the trick. You may want to use distilled water, so that no other minerals get scrubbed on the panel.


----------



## staticz

Hi, I've been debating on picking up this model of the Qnix - http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb for use as a everyday monitor and also (and most important to me) as a monitor for my Xbox One.

I'm not really interested in over clocking and don't do much PC gaming anymore, however I really want a QHD display. Also, today Newegg has this panel from Acer on their Shell Shocker deal at $300 with 3 year warranty.

Which monitor would be a better fit for my needs? I can't find a ton of info on the Acer, but buying from Newegg and the 3 year warranty are nice. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staticz*
> 
> Hi, I've been debating on picking up this model of the Qnix - http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb for use as a everyday monitor and also (and most important to me) as a monitor for my Xbox One.
> 
> I'm not really interested in over clocking and don't do much PC gaming anymore, however I really want a QHD display. Also, today Newegg has this panel from Acer on their Shell Shocker deal at $300 with 3 year warranty.
> 
> Which monitor would be a better fit for my needs? I can't find a ton of info on the Acer, but buying from Newegg and the 3 year warranty are nice. Thanks in advance!


Its a hard choice. Both are AH-VA panels. Both have HDMI ports for you Xbox One. This particular Qnix (with HDMI & DVI ports only) may overclock to 75Hz without skipping, though you stated that you don't care about OCing.
I dont have any info about the Acer monitor. But IF it is respectable monitor I would choose it if you are in the U.S, because of Neweggs warranty.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Its a hard choice. Both are AH-VA panels. Both have HDMI ports for you Xbox One. This particular Qnix (with HDMI & DVI ports only) may overclock to 75Hz without skipping, though you stated that you don't care about OCing.
> I dont have any info about the Acer monitor. But IF it is respectable monitor I would choose it if you are in the U.S, because of Neweggs warranty.


I would second this recommendation (well written!), if that helps


----------



## liortulip

I have a hackintosh I built. Do you guys know if it is possible to overclock these on make OS X? And if you can't, is it still worth purchasing one of these of an Asus pb278q?

Thanks!


----------



## jameyscott

Go for the Asus if you want cheap, good color accuracy


----------



## staticz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Its a hard choice. Both are AH-VA panels. Both have HDMI ports for you Xbox One. This particular Qnix (with HDMI & DVI ports only) may overclock to 75Hz without skipping, though you stated that you don't care about OCing.
> I dont have any info about the Acer monitor. But IF it is respectable monitor I would choose it if you are in the U.S, because of Neweggs warranty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I would second this recommendation (well written!), if that helps


Thank you both. The monitors both seemed really similar. I ended up paying the extra $10 and going with the Acer. The 3 year warranty and returns inside the US sealed the deal. Thanks again!


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I would second this recommendation (well written!), if that helps


Thanks! This means a lot coming from you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staticz*
> 
> Thank you both. The monitors both seemed really similar. I ended up paying the extra $10 and going with the Acer. The 3 year warranty and returns inside the US sealed the deal. Thanks again!


No problem. I hope you enjoy it


----------



## AntharesProcyon

I got my QNIX monitor a couple of days ago and I am simply LOVING it. Too bad I can't overclock it up to 110Hz, then I get things like this (sorry for the bad image quality).
There's nothing I can do against this, right? It's running rather smooth at 96Hz but not as smooth as 110 or 120Hz.


----------



## Captaincaveman

So third monitor is on its way








got 3x290 to push them. I need an active mini display port -> dvi adapter if i want to run them all off one gpu (CF), right?
Any recommendations?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> So third monitor is on its way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got 3x290 to push them. I need an active mini display port -> dvi adapter if i want to run them all off one gpu (CF), right?
> Any recommendations?


Yes. There was one ToastyX recommends on his forum: http://www.monitortests.com

Capable of a 400MHz pixel clock, meaning you can hit about 100Hz before you cap out at the pixel clock limit.


----------



## CTM Audi

So are the new versions of these still getting 100Hz or more without dropping frames? Saw the tft review of the AH-VA panel one that said it OCs, but dropped frames. Also had bad contrast and lag compared to the original ones last year.

Are all the ones on ebay these days the new AH-VA ones instead of the PLS ones?


----------



## Romanion

Anyone have links for videos on how to de-bezel the QNIX 2710 Evo II monitor? The link over at the de-bezeling thread doesn't work.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romanion*
> 
> Anyone have links for videos on how to de-bezel the QNIX 2710 Evo II monitor? The link over at the de-bezeling thread doesn't work.


There are links in the first page which will take you to another thead, the links in there work. Just click the debezzeling info on first page here. The youtube link just worked for me, it goes to a playlist on youtube on how to debezzel


----------



## Captaincaveman

is it this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409203289&sr=1-9&keywords=accell+mini+displayport
couldn't really find it on his website


----------



## rwong48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AntharesProcyon*
> 
> I got my QNIX monitor a couple of days ago and I am simply LOVING it. Too bad I can't overclock it up to 110Hz, then I get things like this (sorry for the bad image quality).
> There's nothing I can do against this, right? It's running rather smooth at 96Hz but not as smooth as 110 or 120Hz.


I got mine (well, my second one, after my first one died) a couple days ago as well, and I set it up just now. It's the PLS DVI-D only one, so the same one, except I got matte this time instead of glossy.



Like you, this is what happens when I choose 120Hz. Except 110Hz works for me. Sorry for you.










This is my old/first DP2710 - the one that died.


----------



## Romanion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> There are links in the first page which will take you to another thead, the links in there work. Just click the debezzeling info on first page here. The youtube link just worked for me, it goes to a playlist on youtube on how to debezzel


Ah, I only saw the link from the bezel painting guide and that link was broken. Thanks.


----------



## RobCrezz

Hi guys.

Ive got a Qnix 2710, and its superb.

Ive done a search about the problem im getting but cant see any concrete answers.

As a single monitor plugged into my GTX 680, I can run it at confirmed 96fps 96hz, no problems there. If I plug my other 1080p 60hz monitor in as a secondary monitor (plugging it into the Intel HD 3000) then it seems to cut my refresh rate to 48hz, noticeably not as good.

So far i can tell that only disabling aero can sort this?

Any other suggestions?

pc spec:
i5 2500k @ 4.7Ghz
Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
GTX 680
Corsair Vengeance 2x4Gb 1866Mhz


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobCrezz*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> Ive got a Qnix 2710, and its superb.
> 
> Ive done a search about the problem im getting but cant see any concrete answers.
> 
> As a single monitor plugged into my GTX 680, I can run it at confirmed 96fps 96hz, no problems there. If I plug my other 1080p 60hz monitor in as a secondary monitor (plugging it into the Intel HD 3000) then it seems to cut my refresh rate to 48hz, noticeably not as good.
> 
> So far i can tell that only disabling aero can sort this?
> 
> Any other suggestions?
> 
> pc spec:
> i5 2500k @ 4.7Ghz
> Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
> GTX 680
> Corsair Vengeance 2x4Gb 1866Mhz


Why are you plugging second monitor into onboard graphics instead of the gpu itself? Did the graphics card do same problem as onboard?


----------



## RobCrezz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Why are you plugging second monitor into onboard graphics instead of the gpu itself? Did the graphics card do same problem as onboard?


So I have the Qnix plugged into the Dvi-D connection on the GTX 680. When I plugged the 1080p screen in to the DVI-i it wouldnt allow the qnix to be in 1440p any more, so i changed it to the hd3000.


----------



## liortulip

Guys, I have a Hackintosh I built myself. Is there any way for me to overclock these monitors on Mac OSX?


----------



## jb747

Quick question about the multi input panels. Are there any multi input QNIX/X-STAR models out there that actually use the PLS panel? All the ones I see have AV-HA panels and If I'm going from 1 X-star monitor to 3, I'd like them to have the same colors. I can live with different response time on one screen, but I want them to look identical. Plus, It would be nice to plug other stuff into at least one screen.


----------



## rwong48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobCrezz*
> 
> As a single monitor plugged into my GTX 680, I can run it at confirmed 96fps 96hz, no problems there. If I plug my other 1080p 60hz monitor in as a secondary monitor (plugging it into the Intel HD 3000) then it seems to cut my refresh rate to 48hz, noticeably not as good.
> 
> So far i can tell that only disabling aero can sort this?


I have this kind of problem with 2 or 3 monitors on my GTX 660. I've tried various combinations of 120Hz and 60Hz displays, and it's always the same.

If I have a 60Hz monitor connected, my 120Hz monitors will slow down a bit (90-100 fps) and my 60Hz monitor will randomly drop to a pitiful 40 FPS before going back up to 60. The 3rd/60Hz monitor is basically unusable at this point.

Also, if I have my 60Hz monitor as my primary, the 120Hz monitors will max out at 60 FPS


----------



## zerocraft

Just got my QX2710, looks good outside of the color profile. The whites are very yellowish, more than just a "warm" color temperature. I have tried all the profiles on the front page, but none really have helped improve the yellowness. I have had better luck doing it via the Nvidia control panel, but ended up with worse overall color accuracy. Anyone have a profile / method for reducing just the yellowness / warmth of colors ?


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocraft*
> 
> Just got my QX2710, looks good outside of the color profile. The whites are very yellowish, more than just a "warm" color temperature. I have tried all the profiles on the front page, but none really have helped improve the yellowness. I have had better luck doing it via the Nvidia control panel, but ended up with worse overall color accuracy. Anyone have a profile / method for reducing just the yellowness / warmth of colors ?


Oh...... weird... I JUST got on to post the exact same thing.

I just got my 2nd monitor and he is right, I have a yellowish tint compared to the whites on my main qnix. I feel like its Warm color temp vs cool color temp, how do we change these?

Yea this is super super annoying, how can we change the color temp? I cant make any adjustments for it to look good.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobCrezz*
> 
> So I have the Qnix plugged into the Dvi-D connection on the GTX 680. When I plugged the 1080p screen in to the DVI-i it wouldnt allow the qnix to be in 1440p any more, so i changed it to the hd3000.


Weird.. I assume you have both drivers for monitors and graphics card up to date right? Were you able to force the qnix into 1440p through the nvidia control panel itself?


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobCrezz*
> 
> So I have the Qnix plugged into the Dvi-D connection on the GTX 680. When I plugged the 1080p screen in to the DVI-i it wouldnt allow the qnix to be in 1440p any more, so i changed it to the hd3000.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Weird.. I assume you have both drivers for monitors and graphics card up to date right? Were you able to force the qnix into 1440p through the nvidia control panel itself?


Same thing here! When I connect my TV through HDMI it forces my Qnix to 1920x1080 as my TV and I can't select 2560x1440 because it does not show in Nvidia panel. When I remove the HDMI cable from the GPU, everything goes back to normal.
Bothe Qnix and Nvidia drivers up to date.


----------



## rwong48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocraft*
> 
> Just got my QX2710, looks good outside of the color profile. The whites are very yellowish, more than just a "warm" color temperature. I have tried all the profiles on the front page, but none really have helped improve the yellowness. I have had better luck doing it via the Nvidia control panel, but ended up with worse overall color accuracy. Anyone have a profile / method for reducing just the yellowness / warmth of colors ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Oh...... weird... I JUST got on to post the exact same thing.
> 
> I just got my 2nd monitor and he is right, I have a yellowish tint compared to the whites on my main qnix. I feel like its Warm color temp vs cool color temp, how do we change these?
> 
> Yea this is super super annoying, how can we change the color temp? I cant make any adjustments for it to look good.


I thought the same thing, getting my second X-Star DP2710 (though matte this time instead of glossy). Using someone's QNIX_110Hz.icm at 110Hz.


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Weird.. I assume you have both drivers for monitors and graphics card up to date right? Were you able to force the qnix into 1440p through the nvidia control panel itself?


EDIT: MISQUOTE


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwong48*
> 
> I thought the same thing, getting my second X-Star DP2710 (though matte this time instead of glossy). Using someone's QNIX_110Hz.icm at 110Hz.


Its really annoying, I cant get it to look good at all. Feels like there is a freaking instagram filter on it compared to my other qnix.

Does anyone know how to get rid of it?

*I feel like changing color temp somehow to cool would work*


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Its really annoying, I cant get it to look good at all. Feels like there is a freaking instagram filter on it compared to my other qnix.
> 
> Does anyone know how to get rid of it?
> 
> *I feel like changing color temp somehow to cool would work*


Are you using these two monitors on the same PC?
If you can change the color profile of each monitor by itself, maybe you can mess with the sliders of RGB settings in Nvidia control panel, or catalyst control if you have an AMD card.


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Are you using these two monitors on the same PC?
> If you can change the color profile of each monitor by itself, maybe you can mess with the sliders of RGB settings in Nvidia control panel, or catalyst control if you have an AMD card.


Yea same PC on a 780. I dont know what to really adjust to make it look different, if I reduce red, it makes everything look to blue not just white. Vice versa

Unless someone has settings for me to try


----------



## Sempre

Can you change the color profile of one monitor and leave the other one unchanged, or does it affect both of them?


----------



## LvlsOfCuriosity

Hey guys just received my qnix today. 0 dead pixel and no backlight bleed but I notice a small bright area on my screen. any ideas what it is?

http://i59.tinypic.com/125s751.jpg


----------



## RobCrezz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Weird.. I assume you have both drivers for monitors and graphics card up to date right? Were you able to force the qnix into 1440p through the nvidia control panel itself?


Yup. With just the qnix attached 1440p and 96hz works perfectly.


----------



## Captaincaveman

So two questions:
first, a repeat. I need an active mini displayport to dvi-d (dual link) for the third monitor. I was directed to monitortests.com but was unable to find it there (fail at searching I guess).
second, an issue with my monitor. I currently only have one connected to my old 6970, sometimes I get a VERY strange behavior when the left and the right halves of the screen switch sides. when that happens i also get some tearing and lines across the screen. after restarting it goes away. another thing worth noting that out of the 4-5 times it happened, all of them were when league of legends shows its loading screen with all champions of both teams and I press alt+tab to do something else while waiting. i usually press alt+tab even before the loading screen finishes loading. so maybe it's just some software issue...

Thanks!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Can you change the color profile of one monitor and leave the other one unchanged, or does it affect both of them?


Color Sustainer







Read the OP you guys, seriously. It's mentioned there. Try it and you would find out what it does.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Yea same PC on a 780. I dont know what to really adjust to make it look different, if I reduce red, it makes everything look to blue not just white. Vice versa
> 
> Unless someone has settings for me to try


Try QuickGamma.

Try my profiles too:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/coyn2hldsqkzjte/Qnix%20Profiles%20%282014-03-30%29.zip?dl=0


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Anyone know why my Qnix driver keeps disappearing ?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Color Sustainer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read the OP you guys, seriously. It's mentioned there. Try it and you would find out what it does.
> Try QuickGamma.
> 
> Try my profiles too:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/coyn2hldsqkzjte/Qnix%20Profiles%20%282014-03-30%29.zip?dl=0


Nice. Your program is awesome








I only have one Qnix so i wasn't asking for me but i was asking for Haas360.

He could try with different profiles using Color Sustainer to try and make them similar.
Or he could buy a calibrator and be done with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Its really annoying, I cant get it to look good at all. Feels like there is a freaking instagram filter on it compared to my other qnix.
> 
> Does anyone know how to get rid of it?
> 
> *I feel like changing color temp somehow to cool would work*


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Nice. Your program is awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have one Qnix so i wasn't asking for me but i was asking for Haas360.
> 
> He could try with different profiles using Color Sustainer to try and make them similar.
> Or he could by a calibrator and be done with it.


I use a calibrator (colorimeter), the X-Rite i1DP (D3). Most profiles you see in this club are made by colorimeters (Spyder4, D3). I personally use Color Sustainer to load the latest profiles I make. Although I don't have identical monitors (I only have 1 Qnix), you could make them ~match as long as they're not in Surround / Eyefinity mode. Monitors from the same model tend to have close enough gamuts that matching them is not going to be particularly difficult, especially if you get a good instrument such as the i1DP.

@*Haas360*: Take a look at my previous posts dealing with color management and colorimeter recommendations if you're interested.


----------



## seanp2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobCrezz*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> Ive got a Qnix 2710, and its superb.
> 
> Ive done a search about the problem im getting but cant see any concrete answers.
> 
> As a single monitor plugged into my GTX 680, I can run it at confirmed 96fps 96hz, no problems there. If I plug my other 1080p 60hz monitor in as a secondary monitor (plugging it into the Intel HD 3000) then it seems to cut my refresh rate to 48hz, noticeably not as good.
> 
> So far i can tell that only disabling aero can sort this?
> 
> Any other suggestions?
> 
> pc spec:
> i5 2500k @ 4.7Ghz
> Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
> GTX 680
> Corsair Vengeance 2x4Gb 1866Mhz


I use my Qnix in a dual monitor setup where the second monitor is used as an extended desktop. The second monitor is 1080p 60hz. The qnix is my main display. I am using Windows 8.1 and the latest updates. I imagine you are using Windows 7? Also I am powering this using a 780ti and using the dvi port for the qnix and the hdmi port for the second monitor. Sorry I can't be more helpful but I can at least tell you it's doable in such a way. Mine allows me to do 110 but 120 is not stable...


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Color Sustainer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read the OP you guys, seriously. It's mentioned there. Try it and you would find out what it does.
> Try QuickGamma.
> 
> Try my profiles too:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/coyn2hldsqkzjte/Qnix%20Profiles%20%282014-03-30%29.zip?dl=0


I have been using Color Sustainer and it works great, I was quite pleased to find that it made my 120hz look a lot better then my custom settings.

But its not doing much in terms of changing the color temperature on the overall display. Can QuickGamma change temperature or white ratio's? Because No matter what gamma it is, its not fixing it.


----------



## freezer2k

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Matte-27-Slim-Qnix-QX2710-Evolution-II-LED-PLS-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-/221413518300?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme&hash=item338d462bdc

Hi,

I'm in Germany, is this a good option to order?

It says free express shipping, which is DHL as far as i know.

This model should be overclockable, right? (DVI only)

Can someone recommend other good stores to buy from?


----------



## jameyscott

Buy from accessorieswhole


----------



## MrPromaster

i've edited the Qnix driver for use with the X-star 2710LED, its purely cosmetic but i think people will appreciate it

https://mega.co.nz/#!CEVTHC4J!t7UUvYeciD15wJHCOeMkumr33oHtrxYAEuXJLebBPJY


----------



## Haas360

Alright so I tried QuickGamma and if I change settings to such it looks better

R: 2.0
G: 2.0
B: 2.30

from

2.20 RGB

*But now I am having issues, even if I dont have that monitor assigned ( i deleted it) color sustainer still will kick the other monitor into a default mode back to 2.20.







Can maybe someone make a good color profile with those RGB gamma settings? Why is my display tinted like this







*


----------



## Scotty99

Hey guys. So i recently purchased an asus vg248qe and returned it. In WoW at anything over 60hz there was this weird stutter when flying/riding past things in my peripheral vision, this was eliminated by going back to 60hz but completely negated the best part of that monitor, so back to newegg it went. Now i start my search all over again for a new monitor. Have a few questiions about the qnix hopefully someone who plays WoW can answer:

1. Should i go for pixel perfect or the standard one? There is only a 20 dollar price difference, but i have heard the pixel perfects can still show up with dead pixels?
2. Will it be a shock going from 1080p to 1440p in regards to how text looks (being smaller) or will i have any issues with webpage scaling ? (massive borders?)
3. Has anyone gone from a 60hz tn panel to this monitor and noticed any ghosting in WoW, or any game for that matter? WoW plays really great for me now on a standard 60hz tn and losing any of the "smooth" feeling i have would really suck, but on the other hand i really do want a prettier display since WoW looks so good on ultra.
4. Where should i buy this? If i decide i dont like it and want to send it back, is amazon the best place for returning this monitor? I will not buy from newegg they charged me a restocking fee for the asus 248qe. If i did decide to do a return to amazon do they need specific reasons or is it no questions asked?

Anything else you feel is relevant is much appreciated, i was sure i would love the asus 144hz monitor.....and i did until i played WoW. The colors on it were much better than my 4 year old tn panel and the size increase was a nice plus (have a 22" monitor atm). But that darn stutter that happened when i went over 60hz really ruined it for me. 27" also scares me a little, but if i have to i can move my router/modem to a different area to get enough distance between myself and the monitor hopefully.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> 2. Will it be a shock going from 1080p to 1440p in regards to how text looks (being smaller) or will i have any issues with webpage scaling ? (massive borders?)
> 
> 4. Where should i buy this? If i decide i dont like it and want to send it back, is amazon the best place for returning this monitor? I will not buy from newegg they charged me a restocking fee for the asus 248qe. If i did decide to do a return to amazon do they need specific reasons or is it no questions asked?


I will be a shock, but in a good way... You can fit so much more on the screen. You always hold control-mouse wheel and most of the browsers scale great.

I don't even have the best vision so I know what you mean with laptops with small screens and crazy resolution, but to me on a 27" monitor with just 1080p everything is way too large. I also have Samsung 1080p monitor, and although it looks really stylish with its curved stand, the x-star is my preference.

More of a concern is can your video card push the monitor because although anything with dual-link DVI will work for web browsing and such, you'll at least one 780 or 290 to game in 1440p. If you have a 760 then adding another one for SLI would a good idea.

I would recommend ebay "dream_seller" that way you get the best price and get it fast. I really don't think you'll want to send the monitor back. If you really think that is a concern then maybe stick with Amazon.

I don't know if pixel-perfect is a big deal. Maybe it is worth $20 to get one that has one more level of tests performed before its shipped to you. If they really do that


----------



## freezer2k

Oh my god,

I just switched back from a 28" UHD (3840x2160) to my old 23" 1080p monitor.

It was a shock really, not only does the screen size appear somewhat small now, but with a PPI density of ~96, the 1080p screen looks somewhat grainy now. It feels like my eyes are damaged. The UHD Monitor comes with a PPI density of ~157.

Now I wonder how good 27" 1440p will look, as it has a PPI density of 'only' ~109.

What I loved about the UHD, was that I could sit really close to it and it was still very sharp (even though, this is probably not that important). But now sitting even 70cm away from the 1080p screen, it still feels grainy.

What are your feelings when coming from a 1080p screen @ 23", switching to 27" QHD: Does it look a lot sharper?


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I will be a shock, but in a good way... You can fit so much more on the screen. You always hold control-mouse wheel and most of the browsers scale great.
> 
> I don't even have the best vision so I know what you mean with laptops with small screens and crazy resolution, but to me on a 27" monitor with just 1080p everything is way too large. I also have Samsung 1080p monitor, and although it looks really stylish with its curved stand, the x-star is my preference.
> 
> More of a concern is can your video card push the monitor because although anything with dual-link DVI will work for web browsing and such, you'll at least one 780 or 290 to game in 1440p. If you have a 760 then adding another one for SLI would a good idea.
> 
> I would recommend ebay "dream_seller" that way you get the best price and get it fast. I really don't think you'll want to send the monitor back. If you really think that is a concern then maybe stick with Amazon.
> 
> I don't know if pixel-perfect is a big deal. Maybe it is worth $20 to get one that has one more level of tests performed before its shipped to you. If they really do that


Sending it back would be a huge deal cause of the hassle i just went thru with newegg. If i didnt like it its important that the seller will take it back no questions asked (still dont know if thats the case with amazon, or if they have restocking fees or if i have to pay return shipping, would love to know).

As for my GPU and if its powerful enough, i basically only play MMO's so it should be fine, i will fire up some fallout/skyrim once in a while too but i dont run any crazy mods in those games i think a 760 should do ok there.


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Hey guys. So i recently purchased an asus vg248qe and returned it. In WoW at anything over 60hz there was this weird stutter when flying/riding past things in my peripheral vision, this was eliminated by going back to 60hz but completely negated the best part of that monitor, so back to newegg it went. Now i start my search all over again for a new monitor. Have a few questiions about the qnix hopefully someone who plays WoW can answer:
> 
> 1. Should i go for pixel perfect or the standard one? There is only a 20 dollar price difference, but i have heard the pixel perfects can still show up with dead pixels?
> 2. Will it be a shock going from 1080p to 1440p in regards to how text looks (being smaller) or will i have any issues with webpage scaling ? (massive borders?)
> 3. Has anyone gone from a 60hz tn panel to this monitor and noticed any ghosting in WoW, or any game for that matter? WoW plays really great for me now on a standard 60hz tn and losing any of the "smooth" feeling i have would really suck, but on the other hand i really do want a prettier display since WoW looks so good on ultra.
> 4. Where should i buy this? If i decide i dont like it and want to send it back, is amazon the best place for returning this monitor? I will not buy from newegg they charged me a restocking fee for the asus 248qe. If i did decide to do a return to amazon do they need specific reasons or is it no questions asked?
> 
> Anything else you feel is relevant is much appreciated, i was sure i would love the asus 144hz monitor.....and i did until i played WoW. The colors on it were much better than my 4 year old tn panel and the size increase was a nice plus (have a 22" monitor atm). But that darn stutter that happened when i went over 60hz really ruined it for me. 27" also scares me a little, but if i have to i can move my router/modem to a different area to get enough distance between myself and the monitor hopefully.


I went from the same monitor to this one. Its worth it in the dead pixel policy for ME at least

couple things

It will have the mouse responsiveness of the 144hz monitor if you overclock, but the pixels are still slower, meaning you still get motion blur, but its not bad. Im pretty anal.

The colors, MAN they are SOOO much better, I couldnt STAND the asus colors. The QNIX will destroy it


----------



## rwong48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> So two questions:
> first, a repeat. I need an active mini displayport to dvi-d (dual link) for the third monitor. I was directed to monitortests.com but was unable to find it there (fail at searching I guess).


I use the monoprice one http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=6904


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Alright so I tried QuickGamma and if I change settings to such it looks better
> 
> R: 2.0
> G: 2.0
> B: 2.30
> 
> from
> 
> 2.20 RGB
> 
> *But now I am having issues, even if I dont have that monitor assigned ( i deleted it) color sustainer still will kick the other monitor into a default mode back to 2.20.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can maybe someone make a good color profile with those RGB gamma settings? Why is my display tinted like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Color Sustainer shouldn't interfere with displays that are deleted. Can you describe exactly what you're doing?

Have you tried using the QuickGamma profile inside Color Sustainer?


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwong48*
> 
> I use the monoprice one http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=6904


Thanks!


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loktar Ogar*
> 
> I also noticed some ghosting while playing WOW when strafing (left to right) on 60Hz.... It got lessen when i OC it to 96Hz.... I'm not sure the outcome if 120Hz due to my low power temporary GPU (GT 240) cannot save the new refresh rate profile above 96Hz... Soon i'll replace my GPU to a higher end. Still thinking what to buy until now...


Glad i have no life and can read 1000 pages of posts. Ghosting in my favorite game, no thanks guess im sticking to my TN for a while longer.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Sending it back would be a huge deal cause of the hassle i just went thru with newegg. If i didnt like it its important that the seller will take it back no questions asked (still dont know if thats the case with amazon, or if they have restocking fees or if i have to pay return shipping, would love to know).
> 
> As for my GPU and if its powerful enough, i basically only play MMO's so it should be fine, i will fire up some fallout/skyrim once in a while too but i dont run any crazy mods in those games i think a 760 should do ok there.


this is dream_seller return policy:

14 days
Money back
Buyer pays return shipping

I personally would not buy the monitor through mail-order if you are that unsure. Shipping is going to be a killer no matter what. On an item like this where the profit margin is so small, you are going to have a hassle doing returns. Once the monitor is returned its no longer new and as such needs to be sold as "refurbished" or "open-box" or whatever. Best Buy can afford to do this because their prices are inflated to begin with.

Most of us did our research and are were confident we were getting the absolute best monitor for the money prior to placing the order, so return policy is not of major concern.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> this is dream_seller return policy:
> 
> 14 days
> Money back
> Buyer pays return shipping
> 
> I personally would not buy the monitor through mail-order if you are that unsure. Shipping is going to be a killer no matter what. On an item like this where the profit margin is so small, you are going to have a hassle doing returns. Once the monitor is returned its no longer new and as such needs to be sold as "refurbished" or "open-box" or whatever. Best Buy can afford to do this because their prices are inflated to begin with.
> 
> *Most of us did our research and are were confident we were getting the absolute best monitor for the money* prior to placing the order, so return policy is not of major concern.


Heh, i researched the asus vg248qe for months and sent it back. No where did anyone state the problem i had in WoW with it, anything over 60 hz you would get a stutter flying past objects, as well as a stutter if you panned your camera while flying/running sideways (which i strafe often in pvp). Look at the post above, guy said he was having ghosting issues in WoW, its stuff like this you need to look out for, specs dont make a darn bit of difference if for the games i play there are problems like this. (i was just lucky i stumbled upon his post, i would have been infuriated had i bought this monitor and the game i play most played WORSE than my 100 dollar 60hz tn i got 3 years ago)


----------



## BenJaminJr

^^^ A monitor causing stuttering?


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> ^^^ A monitor causing stuttering?


Never said it was the monitor that caused it, its just the WoW engine i assume. Game plays marvelously with a 60hz vsynced panel (even with 60hz vsync off on the asus it played great) but once you go over that (i tried 120 and 144hz) the stutter started appearing. If i ever do buy the qnix it would only be from a seller that pays for return shipping AND no restocking fee, as i learned one thing from my debacle with the asus 144hz is that you can research til the cows come home but you wont really know if its for you until you try it out.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Never said it was the monitor that caused it, its just the WoW engine i assume. Game plays marvelously with a 60hz vsynced panel (even with 60hz vsync off on the asus it played great) but once you go over that (i tried 120 and 144hz) the stutter started appearing. If i ever do buy the qnix it would only be from a seller that pays for return shipping AND no restocking fee, as i learned one thing from my debacle with the asus 144hz is that you can research til the cows come home but you wont really know if its for you until you try it out.


If it's for you? If all games you play stutter when you choose any refresh rate over 60Hz, then yeah. I have never encountered this myself, however, as games that stutter over 60Hz will have an FPS cap of 60 that either can or can't be removed. As for the vast majority of new games that work properly at a higher refresh rate, 60 is what's slow these days and higher refresh rates with the GPUs we have nowadays are most welcome for most types of games.

What FPS are you getting in WoW? I'm assuming it isn't over 144FPS.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Just played WoW with 120fps Vsync and it was smooth as butter.

Of course panning anything will cause it to slightly stutter because the game has to redraw the entire scene every-time the camera is moved by 1 pixel. So if you pan fast and long then it redraws a ton.

Running straight only requires the game to increase the size of objects coming further into view and not draw anything coming out of view. So a lot less power needed to do that maneuver.

The same principle applies to getting insane FPS while motionless (no redraws) and then it plummeting when you move (game is redrawing tons of frames).

Can't believe you would return something based on a fault not caused by that item.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Just played WoW with 120fps Vsync and it was smooth as butter.
> 
> Of course panning anything will cause it to slightly stutter because the game has to redraw the entire scene every-time the camera is moved by 1 pixel. So if you pan fast and long then it redraws a ton.
> 
> Running straight only requires the game to increase the size of objects coming further into view and not draw anything coming out of view. So a lot less power needed to do that maneuver.
> 
> The same principle applies to getting insane FPS while motionless (no redraws) and then it plummeting when you move (game is redrawing tons of frames).
> 
> *Can't believe you would return something based on a fault not caused by that item.*


/facedesk

It dont matter what caused it, ive never played on a 144hz screen before......and even though i asked TONS on these forums as well as the WoW forums if 144hz played good in wow the answer was always YES. Just goes to show that you cant trust people, you need to test things for yourself. Im not some tech junkie, sure i enjoy tech hardware but i also have a life. I love how the tone of your post assumes this bit here "Of course panning anything will cause it to slightly stutter because the game has to redraw the entire scene every-time the camera is moved by 1 pixel" is common knowledge to anyone other than the cave dwellers that lurk these forums.

I researched this screen for months before i decided to pull the trigger, all the information i gathered was i would love the screen. And yes it did play great when you werent flying by objects close to you, but that was enough of a downside to me to return the monitor, my 60hz vsynced screen FELT smoother in this particular game.

Edit: BTW that was only half the reason i returned it, there was a stuck pixel and it showed up right in the chrome address bar. Would i have kept it if it didnt have the stuck pixel? Probably not.


----------



## freezer2k

Well, but then your hardware is not powerful enough?

How is this a screen defect?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> /facedesk
> 
> It dont matter what caused it, ive never played on a 144hz screen before......and even though i asked TONS on these forums as well as the WoW forums if 144hz played good in wow the answer was always YES. Just goes to show that you cant trust people, you need to test things for yourself. Im not some tech junkie, sure i enjoy tech hardware but i also have a life. I love how the tone of your post assumes this bit here "Of course panning anything will cause it to slightly stutter because the game has to redraw the entire scene every-time the camera is moved by 1 pixel" is common knowledge to anyone other than the cave dwellers that lurk these forums.
> 
> I researched this screen for months before i decided to pull the trigger, all the information i gathered was i would love the screen. And yes it did play great when you werent flying by objects close to you, but that was enough of a downside to me to return the monitor, my 60hz vsynced screen FELT smoother in this particular game.
> 
> Edit: BTW that was only half the reason i returned it, there was a stuck pixel and it showed up right in the chrome address bar. Would i have kept it if it didnt have the stuck pixel? Probably not.


What was your framerate?


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What was your framerate?


100-140 FPS in the zone i was testing in (jade forest), right in the wheelhouse for that monitor. I did a BG and it was great, i could feel the smoothness over my 60hz panel....but i do sight seeing in WoW more than i pvp (wow looks really nice on ultra).


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> 100-140 FPS in the zone i was testing in (jade forest), right in the wheelhouse for that monitor. I did a BG and it was great, i could feel the smoothness over my 60hz panel....but i do sight seeing in WoW more than i pvp (wow looks really nice on ultra).


You probably want at least as many FPS (minimum) as your refresh rate, otherwise it might not feel as smooth.


----------



## Scotty99

Nah smoothness wasnt the problem, it was objects in your peripheral vision when flying (or even riding on ground mount) appearing to stutter as you go past them. This was 100% reproducible on 120 or 144hz, the only thing that fixed this was going back to 60hz.....well if im going to have to play at 60hz ill just send back the monitor and use my old one, which is what i did. The smoothness of 144hz monitors is noticeable even at 80 fps, its something to do with the panel and not your actual FPS. This varies from person to person, some people dont notice the smoothness til 90+ FPS, but no where in my testing did i go below 95 FPS and it still felt smooth.

Sorry this isnt a vg248qe thread, but people keep responding to me lol. Im not an idiot, i know its not a problem with the monitor, its a problem with WoW's engine, its just a shame i didnt come across this problem before i pulled the trigger on the monitor. This is part of the reason i am in this thread, to find someone who owns the qnix and is an avid WoW player, and if there are any issues with WoW .....especially ones that arent immediately apparent like the issue i encounted with the asus 144hz.


----------



## the9quad

Wish my rig would do 120 fps in wow. Would like to see one in action that does.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Nah smoothness wasnt the problem, it was objects in your peripheral vision when flying (or even riding on ground mount) appearing to stutter as you go past them. This was 100% reproducible on 120 or 144hz, the only thing that fixed this was going back to 60hz.....well if im going to have to play at 60hz ill just send back the monitor and use my old one, which is what i did. The smoothness of 144hz monitors is noticeable even at 80 fps, its something to do with the panel and not your actual FPS. This varies from person to person, some people dont notice the smoothness til 90+ FPS, but no where in my testing did i go below 95 FPS and it still felt smooth.
> 
> Sorry this isnt a vg248qe thread, but people keep responding to me lol. Im not an idiot, i know its not a problem with the monitor, its a problem with WoW's engine, its just a shame i didnt come across this problem before i pulled the trigger on the monitor. This is part of the reason i am in this thread, to find someone who owns the qnix and is an avid WoW player, and if there are any issues with WoW .....especially ones that arent immediately apparent like the issue i encounted with the asus 144hz.


Here's what I don't understand. If you're going to run WoW at 60Hz just so it doesn't stutter, then just set the Qnix to 60Hz and game away. You get increased resolution, a PLS panel, and the ability to run other games at higher refresh rates than 60Hz.

I mean, I face several games that are capped at 60FPS or even 30FPS. I just set my refresh rate to 60Hz and play.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Here's what I don't understand. If you're going to run WoW at 60Hz just so it doesn't stutter, then just set the Qnix to 60Hz and game away. You get increased resolution, a PLS panel, and the ability to run other games at higher refresh rates than 60Hz.
> 
> I mean, I face several games that are capped at 60FPS or even 30FPS. I just set my refresh rate to 60Hz and play.


No im not worried about the qnix stuttering, because i know it wont (cause 60 FPS). Why im here is because i dont know if there are any *other* issues with it and WoW. If you look a page back i quoted a post from around page 1103 that said he found the qnix to have ghosting when strafing his character in WoW. Basically i want a REAL UPGRADE WITH NO DOWNSIDES. If i bought this qnix, and i got ghosting or any weirdness that isnt present on my 100 dollar 60hz tn monitor from 3 years ago, i would not be satisfied with my purchase. I am 100% fine with 60hz and that is why i switched my attention to 1440p, i now just want a prettier WoW with more vibrant colors, but if i have to sacrifice ANYTHING i will not upgrade.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Wish my rig would do 120 fps in wow. Would like to see one in action that does.


Mine easily busts the 120 FPS marker, on full ultra with 8xAA. But lets be clear there are two games invloved when talking about FPS, one where you have lots of people around you (cities, large scale BG's, 25 man raids etc) and then you have the other WoW like out questing, small scale bg's, dungeons etc. No PC on the planet can do 120 FPS in a crowded shrine of the seven stars or a 25 man raid with all details cranked up, but its not really hard at all to get these numbers out in a questing area, even a fairly graphics intensive area like parts of jade forest.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> No im not worried about the qnix stuttering, because i know it wont (cause 60 FPS). Why im here is because i dont know if there are any *other* issues with it and WoW. If you look a page back i quoted a post from around page 1103 that said he found the qnix to have ghosting when strafing his character in WoW. Basically i want a REAL UPGRADE WITH NO DOWNSIDES. If i bought this qnix, and i got ghosting or any weirdness that isnt present on my 100 dollar 60hz tn monitor from 3 years ago, i would not be satisfied with my purchase. I am 100% fine with 60hz and that is why i switched my attention to 1440p, i now just want a prettier WoW with more vibrant colors, but if i have to sacrifice ANYTHING i will not upgrade.


Sounds like you should get a tn with strobe. That's the only way you will get zero ghosting especially if you are sticking with 60hz.. The qnix has very minimal ghosting @ 120hz, but it will still have ghosting so will any other panel that doesn't have a strobe. Is it noticeable in WoW? I don't think so at 120hz, but at 60 I am not sure.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> No im not worried about the qnix stuttering, because i know it wont (cause 60 FPS). Why im here is because i dont know if there are any *other* issues with it and WoW. If you look a page back i quoted a post from around page 1103 that said he found the qnix to have ghosting when strafing his character in WoW. Basically i want a REAL UPGRADE WITH NO DOWNSIDES. If i bought this qnix, and i got ghosting or any weirdness that isnt present on my 100 dollar 60hz tn monitor from 3 years ago, i would not be satisfied with my purchase. I am 100% fine with 60hz and that is why i switched my attention to 1440p, i now just want a prettier WoW with more vibrant colors, but if i have to sacrifice ANYTHING i will not upgrade.


If you are looking for that "true" gaming panel of 1440p, spend the $800 / $900 and buy the ROG Swift.

The qnix are decent made panels which can be overclocked to 120hz, but the QNIX is not going to outperform many other panels which is why you will be paying a premium for them.

I have a vg248qe, I can't compare the two, the qnix may have the asus beat in resolution and color but the vg248qe will do the same to any 1080p monitor. Just as the swift will do this to the qnix


----------



## Scotty99

Does my TN have a strobe? Cause i have zero ghosting with it at 60hz.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824262011

Remember i wouldnt be overclocking the qnix as the stutter would become present just like it did with the asus.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Does my TN have a strobe? Cause i have zero ghosting with it at 60hz.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824262011
> 
> Remember i wouldnt be overclocking the qnix as the stutter would become present just like it did with the asus.


http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/120hz-monitors/


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Does my TN have a strobe? Cause i have zero ghosting with it at 60hz.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824262011
> 
> Remember i wouldnt be overclocking the qnix as the stutter would become present just like it did with the asus.


if you have a 60hz tn and you dont have a strobe, then yes you have ghosting, you might not notice it, but you have it (thats a fact, that is the nature of the pixel response time and refresh rate). Some people just dont really notice ghosting, some people will look at your monitor and wonder how you dont notice it.

http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/60vs120vslb/

also, at 1440p I dont come close to 120 fps with 3 290x's, 32 gigs of ddr3 @2400, and a i7 4930k at 4.4ghz in wow on ultra and 8 xmsaa. I will have to figure out why I am not then. I guess I should be.


----------



## Scotty99

/facepalm

Ya im too tired to go thought this all over again, hopefully someone who plays WoW on a consistent basis can comment on how they like their qnix for that particular game, even more helpful if they came from a standard 60hz TN!


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> if you have a 60hz tn and you dont have a strobe, then yes you have ghosting, you might not notice it, but you have it (thats a fact, that is the nature of the pixel response time and refresh rate). Some people just dont really notice ghosting, some people will look at your monitor and wonder how you dont notice it.
> 
> http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/60vs120vslb/
> 
> also, at 1440p I dont come close to 120 fps with 3 290x's, 32 gigs of ddr3 @2400, and a i7 4930k at 4.4ghz in wow on ultra and 8 xmsaa. I will have to figure out why I am not then. I guess I should be.


Ya i dunno man, i know what ghosting is and what causes it but to my eyes its not present on my monitor. Again, lightboost would not have fixed my issue i was having, it was a straight up bug with the WoW engine. I need to stick to 60hz, but from some of the posts in this thread regarding ghosting in WoW scare me. Wish i knew someone local i could toss WoW on their PC and try it lol. Microcenter stopped carrying all korean 1440p monitors for some reason so i would have to order from amazon and it would probably be a nightmare if i wasnt satisfied with the display.

As for why you arent getting 120 FPS.....no idea. I have heard WoW does not play well with r9 series cards (290's especially). Just do a quick search on Wow forums, tons of problems with them apparently.


----------



## the9quad

I think you'd be fine with the ghosting on a qnix if your fine with your tn. I'm not sensitive to ghosting either and I don't notice it on mine. I have wow but I don't play much at all anymore since wotlk, when I beat everything there was to do and spent too much time on it. But I fired it up this morning and didn't notice ghosting on it. It's a $300 monitor it is what it is, like the guy above said, unless your gonna drop $800 on a rog swift your probably not gonna do 1440p without ghosting


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hey guys,

Any suggestions for stands for the QNIX?
I'm in the UK - so it should be available here


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Any suggestions for stands for the QNIX?
> I'm in the UK - so it should be available here


http://www.ergotron.com/ProductsDetails/tabid/65/PRDID/126/language/en-GB/Default.aspx

I love this one. Been using it for years with my 23" and it has been wonderful.

Supports up to 7.2kg -- think that should be fine for the Qnix?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Does my TN have a strobe?


Try reading the New Egg page you linked to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Cause i have zero ghosting with it at 60hz.


No, not possible, you just don't notice and should be fine with these PLS panels since 5ms Hans-G (and most other 5ms TN's) monitors are usually on par or slower than AHVA/IPS/PLS panels and VA panels while the best 2ms TN's are twice as fast, or blur free if they have Blur Reduction/Lightboost.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> http://www.ergotron.com/ProductsDetails/tabid/65/PRDID/126/language/en-GB/Default.aspx
> 
> I love this one. Been using it for years with my 23" and it has been wonderful.
> 
> Supports up to 7.2kg -- think that should be fine for the Qnix?


In the UK>?
edit:
googled and it's £40...that's a bit steep
edit2:
oh - on ebay £25

any others bro?


----------



## freezer2k

Quality has its price =)

Think i paid about 40eur.


----------



## ninecats

hey guys, bought my qx2710LED evo II and have clocked to 100hz, valid with no frame skip. however anything above 100hz stars ghosting purple on websites every so often but not all the time. i was wondering if my GPU Gigabyte 7870 ghz edt. is limiting my overclock and if i would benefit from an upgrade.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> The qnix are decent made panels which can be overclocked to 120hz, but the QNIX is not going to outperform many other panels which is why you will be paying a premium for them.


Without sounding completely pedantic, I think "decent made" is generous. OK, you do say "panels", yep the panels are OK, the rest reminds me of a good ol Lada Riva.
Sorry, I'm just still a bit bitter... ;-)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Quality has its price =)
> 
> Think i paid about 40eur.


true although I'm not a huge fan of its silver base


----------



## allindaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Ya i dunno man, i know what ghosting is and what causes it but to my eyes its not present on my monitor. Again, lightboost would not have fixed my issue i was having, it was a straight up bug with the WoW engine. I need to stick to 60hz, but from some of the posts in this thread regarding ghosting in WoW scare me. Wish i knew someone local i could toss WoW on their PC and try it lol. Microcenter stopped carrying all korean 1440p monitors for some reason so i would have to order from amazon and it would probably be a nightmare if i wasnt satisfied with the display.
> 
> As for why you arent getting 120 FPS.....no idea. I have heard WoW does not play well with r9 series cards (290's especially). Just do a quick search on Wow forums, tons of problems with them apparently.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Without sounding completely pedantic, I think "decent made" is generous. OK, you do say "panels", yep the panels are OK, the rest reminds me of a good ol Lada Riva.
> Sorry, I'm just still a bit bitter... ;-)


Definitely a generous comment! They were fair in sending me something that didn't completely fall apart when removing from the box so I was happy


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> *Sorry this isnt a vg248qe thread, but people keep responding to me lol. Im not an idiot, i know its not a problem with the monitor, its a problem with WoW's engine,* its just a shame i didnt come across this problem before i pulled the trigger on the monitor. This is part of the reason i am in this thread, to find someone who owns the qnix and is an avid WoW player, and if there are any issues with WoW .....especially ones that arent immediately apparent like the issue i encounted with the asus 144hz.


I tried all 3 options:

120FPS Vysnc.
60FPS Vysnc
120FPS+ NO Vysnc.
None of which caused stuttering.
The only thing I saw was screen tearing with 60FPS Vysnc and that's because the monitor was updating faster than the game was set to output.
Even the no vysnc barely had any tearing in it.
Besides that, I did not see any stuttering.

I'm playing the latest WoW patch with max graphics and 2560x1400 resolution.

How can you fault the game engine when someone tells you that the same exact scenario does not occur on their PC?
The only difference between me and you would be the PC.

I don't really care that much, I just would hate to see you buy and return 100 monitors or not play a game because you think it's the monitor or game engine.

*Point being: If your trying to get someone to recommend against getting this monitor, it won't happen. These monitors are cheap, and come with features no other monitor can produce. I've had nothing but joys with mine and I would buy another in a heart beat if I needed it.*


----------



## Scotty99

Kenny, you seem really mad for some reason lol. Where did i even come close to not suggesting the monitor to someone? And if you couldnt reproduce the stutter then i dont know what to say, but it was definitely present on mine at 144hz as well as 120hz (setting back to 60hz 100% fixed it). Again to be clear about this stutter i am talking about: It only happened when flying or riding near objects like a mountain or tree or bridge etc, i tested this in jade forest (an area i frequent often because i find it has nice scenery) as you fly by these objects they appear to stutter or hitch, this became more prevalent if you turned your camera so the objects were straight ahead but you were flying sideways.

And i think you may even be a bit confused, i have never owned the qnix.....the stutter i am talking about was with the asus 144hz monitor. (i dont see the asus listed on any of your rigs if you do own it).


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Kenny, you seem really mad for some reason lol. Where did i even come close to not suggesting the monitor to someone? And if you couldnt reproduce the stutter then i dont know what to say, but it was definitely present on mine at 144hz as well as 120hz (setting back to 60hz 100% fixed it). Again to be clear about this stutter i am talking about: It only happened when flying or riding near objects like a mountain or tree or bridge etc, i tested this in jade forest (an area i frequent often because i find it has nice scenery) as you fly by these objects they appear to stutter or hitch, this became more prevalent if you turned your camera so the objects were straight ahead but you were flying sideways.
> 
> And i think you may even be a bit confused, i have never owned the qnix.....the stutter i am talking about was with the asus 144hz monitor. (i dont see the asus listed on any of your rigs if you do own it).


There may be other issues with your hardware configuration or OS itself.

Kenny is not mad but being honest and trying to help







you did blame the WoW engine in the past and the problems you are having can't be pinpointed unless we do things like:
clear all overclocks, cpu, ram
re-install the game
re-install the operating system / drivers / make sure nothing is corrupted
Test different ram/gpu/monitor
just need to do things to rule out possibilities because the game is not the problem unless you have a corrupted install or faulty modified config

So there is a long list of things that can affect one another and create domino effect







nothing which will ever be solved in the monitor thread.

At the end of the day the QNIX is a decent monitor, cheaps, overclocks, has nice colors, and is 1440P. Regardless what monitor you buy you will have that long list of things to do to finally fix the wow problem you are having


----------



## Scotty99

The game runs marvelously lol, my system has ran amazing for 3 years with literally no issues. I cannot explain why i had those weird stutters when going over 60hz, except the WoW engine.....it being 15 or whatever years old (i know the game is 10 years old, but the engine is surely older).

Yes i do understand he is trying to help, but he may be thinking i own the qnix already by his replies. Also, im not sure the korean monitors are the way to go now since i found this monitor:
http://www.amazon.com/Acer-K272HUL-bmiidp-27-inch-Widescreen/dp/B00JB6HCIC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409553830&sr=1-1&keywords=acer+k272hul

399.00 for a 1440p panel from a legit company with 3 year warranty. The pixel perfect qnix is 345.00 and i assume most people add a squaretrade warranty on top of that which is at least 50 bucks, so why not just go with the name brand? I have found little info on this monitor as it seems to be fairly new, but man it seems like a really nice piece for the money. (and no worries if problems happen, surely acer has american centers if you need to send it in for warranty work etc).

I wish my local stores carried ANY of these monitors lol. Microcenter either stopped carrying the monitors altogether, or at least mine did. Best buy only has the really expensive 1440p monitors and thats pretty much the only stores near me that would carry this kind of stuff.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> The game runs marvelously lol, *my system has ran amazing for 3 years with literally no issues*. I *cannot explain why i had those weird stutters when going over 60hz, except the WoW engine*.....it being 15 or whatever years old (i know the game is 10 years old, but the engine is surely older).
> 
> Yes i do understand he is trying to help, but he may be thinking i own the qnix already by his replies. Also, im not sure the korean monitors are the way to go now since i found this monitor:
> http://www.amazon.com/Acer-K272HUL-bmiidp-27-inch-Widescreen/dp/B00JB6HCIC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409553830&sr=1-1&keywords=acer+k272hul
> 
> *399.00 for a 1440p panel from a legit company with 3 year warranty*. The pixel perfect qnix is 345.00 and i assume most people add a squaretrade warranty on top of that which is at least 50 bucks, so why not just go with the name brand? I have found little info on this monitor as it seems to be fairly new, but man it seems like a really nice piece for the money. (and no worries if problems happen, surely acer has american centers if you need to send it in for warranty work etc).
> 
> I wish my local stores carried ANY of these monitors lol. Microcenter either stopped carrying the monitors altogether, or at least mine did. Best buy only has the really expensive 1440p monitors and thats pretty much the only stores near me that would carry this kind of stuff.


Acer? Legit? Good luck trying to extract quality from an acer. Do you remember eMachines







I'd personally go with a no name monitor sold in a back alley before expecting Acer to give me something good

The point is, if you don't fix your problem, doesn't matter what monitor you buy, you are going to experience the issue, because you keep thinking it's the "old" wow engine that has never been updated instead of diagnosing the true cause of the issue


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Acer? Legit? Good luck trying to extract quality from an acer. Do you remember eMachines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd personally go with a no name monitor sold in a back alley before expecting Acer to give me something good
> 
> The point is, if you don't fix your problem, doesn't matter what monitor you buy, you are going to experience the issue, because you keep thinking it's the "old" wow engine that has never been updated instead of diagnosing the true cause of the issue


You actually believe the words you type or are you just attempting to troll?


----------



## MenacingTuba

The matte Qnix/X-Star's have better color presets (consistent, nearly linear 2.2 gamma according to multiple tests vs. the Acer's 2.0 average measured by Digital Versus & Extrahardware CZ/washed out colors) and are free from obvious overshoot ghosting (mentioned in both Digital Versus and ExtraHardware CZ's Reviews) while the Acer K272 is not, can not overclock and has at least a frame of input lag.

The Overlord Tempest is the only comparable 'slightly-name brand,' monitor, but it is a Yamakasi Catleap in a different a case.


----------



## Scotty99

I never said anything about image quality, the koreans probably do come out of the box better calibrated. Just saying, for 4 bills and a stateside warranty the acer is pretty darn appealing.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> The point is, if you don't fix your problem, doesn't matter what monitor you buy, you are going to experience the issue, *because you keep thinking it's the "old" wow engine that has never been updated* instead of diagnosing the true cause of the issue


I would just like to point out that this is no longer a big issue as it was a couple of years ago.
Blizzard has updated their game engine an insane amount in last couple of years. I would say starting with Cataclysm.

One of the biggest improvements was fully supporting Direct X 11.









It used to be that the game engine would limit your FPS, but not so much now.
If you have really good CPU workhorse like a 2500k or better and some good GPU firepower like a 760GTX or better at minimum, then you are going to get some really good performance.

I think some people think that an MMORPG with "art" style graphics is suppose to run good with outdated hardware.
They fail to realize that this game when running with 24 other players vs 300 monsters requires some serious power to run it properly.

I would say right now, one of the only game engine drawbacks is how it handles shadows.
Shadows are hard to display but someone should not be getting 40fps dips with max shadows and 5fps dips with medium shadows.

Just some insight for anyone who plays WoW.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I never said anything about image quality, the koreans probably do come out of the box better calibrated. Just saying, for 4 bills and a stateside warranty the acer is pretty darn appealing.


This is a "qnix x-star monitor club". Why are telling people that you think some other monitor is better? It's like... 




We can offer you advice on the 2 monitors, or tell you how to get one, or tell you how they work, or whats the disadvantages, or number of things... but I'm guessing most on here who own the Qnix or Xstar are not going say "well yea, you should get that OTHER monitor."

I mean you can say anything you want about my monitor, but just don't expect me to agree with you all the time.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> You actually believe the words you type or are you just attempting to troll?


Quite frankly multiple people are trying to help you but you a re ungrateful. If you are not aware of who acer is, don't insult me as if I'm trying to troll because you are uninformed and did not do research.

You should be more considerate instead of stubborn. You posted an oxy moron in your last post that your system runs marvelous followed up by it has a problem. Honestly diagnose the problem instead of insulting other people because you don't want to come to the realization that you don't know what you are talking about at all.

The problem is nothing to do with world of warcraft, it is a problem most likely caused by user error. We post to help you and you take it the wrong way and insult us. You stated Kevin seemed "mad" ( Kenny, you seem really mad for some reason lol. ) when he considerately posted in a nice way that the problem is not the game or monitor but the user.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/20170#post_22783466

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I never said anything about image quality, the koreans probably do come out of the box better calibrated. Just saying, for 4 bills and a stateside warranty the acer is pretty darn appealing.


We are trying to help you, but if you don't need the help then you shouldn't be posting about your problems in the first place. I'm obviously not trying to troll you as I do spend more time here, get helped as well as help others and the occasional person such as yourself comes around.


----------



## Scotty99

Nah man im not trying to do that at all, its just that wasnt the draw for korean monitors in the first place the price point? Overlocking was something that came later when people got them home and found out they could. Im trying to figure out a monitor for myself, and for the same price as a PP qnix + square trade warranty i can get a name brand version with a proper warranty out of the box and a nice looking case on it with buttons that actually work.

Again this sucks cause i really cant try this stuff out locally, id love if my microcenter carried both, i would buy both of them and bring them home to try WoW on. Alas i cannot do this, so best thing i can do is ask on forums to see what other people think.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Quite frankly multiple people are trying to help you but you a re ungrateful. If you are not aware of who acer is, don't insult me as if I'm trying to troll because you are uninformed and did not do research.
> 
> You should be more considerate instead of stubborn. You posted an oxy moron in your last post that your system runs marvelous followed up by it has a problem. Honestly diagnose the problem instead of insulting other people because you don't want to come to the realization that you don't know what you are talking about at all.
> 
> The problem is nothing to do with world of warcraft, it is a problem most likely caused by user error. We post to help you and you take it the wrong way and insult us. You stated Kevin seemed "mad" ( Kenny, you seem really mad for some reason lol. ) when he considerately posted in a nice way that the problem is not the game or monitor but the user.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/20170#post_22783466
> We are trying to help you, but if you don't need the help then you shouldn't be posting about your problems in the first place. I'm obviously not trying to troll you as I do spend more time here, get helped as well as help others and the occasional person such as yourself comes around.


Whats wrong with acer? Who cares if they were sold with emachines in the past how is that even relevant to what they are now? I remember in like 2002 when gskill hit the market NO ONE would buy them and they were considered trash. 10-12 years later gskill is one of the highest regarded ram manufacturers, and wouldnt surprise me if they were the top selling as well.

You guys need to understand something, im not having any problems with WoW lol. I only had that stutter issue at 120hz and above, 60hz has played marvelously for years on my rig. Again i doubt it was the monitor just a weird issue that occurs cause of the dated WoW engine. I love how you say
Quote:


> The problem is nothing to do with world of warcraft


do you even play the game? It has one of the wonkiest engines ive ever seen. I couldnt even begin to describe some of the weird stuff ive seen happen, its been worked over so much the past 10 years its amazing it works as well as it does still lol. I am so confident the problem is with WoW i would freely invite anyone over to my place and show them exactly what i am talking about, you guys can go over my PC with a fine comb just to end up at the conclusion of "hey that is weird, why do those objects stutter when he flies past them on 120hz+ but at 60hz its fine".

Here is thing about forums that i wish would happen less frequently:
http://www.motivationalsmartass.com/index.php/2010/07/thoughtlessness-and-assumptions-two-big-communication-destroyers/


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Nah man im not trying to do that at all, its just that wasnt the draw for korean monitors in the first place the price point? Overlocking was something that came later when people got them home and found out they could. Im trying to figure out a monitor for myself, and for the same price as a PP qnix + square trade warranty i can get a name brand version with a proper warranty out of the box and a nice looking case on it with buttons that actually work.
> 
> Again this sucks cause i really cant try this stuff out locally, id love if my microcenter carried both, i would buy both of them and bring them home to try WoW on. Alas i cannot do this, so best thing i can do is ask on forums to see what other people think.


Ya, if overclocking is not in the picture at all go with whatever will be the bang for your buck. A long warranty is always nice in case of something going wrong, the question is if this monitor will be a sidegrade or full blown upgrade

I bought a qnix on amazon , http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00BUI44US/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new , and it has a 1year warranty + amazon's own policies as well. While it's not a 3 year warranty, I never keep a monitor for 3years so as long as it survives year 1 I will be happy









There is a seller on ebay too who sells with a reasonable warranty IIRC.. $270-320 price range for the monitor.

For overclocking to ~120hz the qnix is the way to go, if it's going to be at stock 60hz then the qnix will lose in many departments. Ie: crappy stock mount, not much warranty
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Whats wrong with acer? Who cares if they were sold with emachines in the past how is that even relevant to what they are now? I remember in like 2002 when gskill hit the market NO ONE would buy them and they were considered trash. 10-12 years later gskill is one of the highest regarded ram manufacturers, and wouldnt surprise me if they were the top selling as well.
> 
> You guys need to understand something, im not having any problems with WoW lol. I only had that stutter issue at 120hz and above, 60hz has played marvelously for years on my rig. Again i doubt it was the monitor just a weird issue that occurs cause of the dated WoW engine. I love how you say
> do you even play the game? It has one of the wonkiest engines ive ever seen. I couldnt even begin to describe some of the weird stuff ive seen happen, its been worked over so much the past 10 years its amazing it works as well as it does still lol. I am so confident the problem is with WoW i would freely invite anyone over to my place and show them exactly what i am talking about, you guys can go over my PC with a fine comb just to end up at the conclusion of "hey that is weird, why do those objects stutter when he flies past them on 120hz+ but at 60hz its fine".
> 
> Here is thing about forums that i wish would happen less frequently:
> http://www.motivationalsmartass.com/index.php/2010/07/thoughtlessness-and-assumptions-two-big-communication-destroyers/


Another user could not reproduce your problem.
I've installed the game and played it at 120hz on both a qnix and asus panel, nothing happened like you mentioned.

Linking something about thoughtlessness and assumptions is just as useless as blaming the game and not being able to accept responsibility that the problem may lie with the operator of the machine. Honestly, stop trying to make justifications for why the problem only happens because of the game when it's only on your computer







becomes a true waste of time going back and forth when you not only don't mention troubleshooting, but repetitively keep posting that the game is the problem without what you've done to try to fix the problem. No one is going to assume you are a computer engineer and give you the benefit of the doubt that you do or don't know what you are doing.


----------



## Scotty99

Ya whatever man, good talk.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Ya whatever man, good talk.


No worry







Most people don't say things with malicious intent so it's good to not insult.

It's easier to justify something without troubleshooting, and 9/10 things can be fixed from something overlooked or a step that was skipped.


----------



## Scotty99

No you are right its my PC, i just formatted and now i am getting 500 FPS and my DVD drive started churning out prime rib, should have listened to you sooner : )


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> No you are right its my PC, i just formatted and now i am getting 500 FPS and my DVD drive started churning out prime rib, should have listened to you sooner : )


I don't think your GPU can handle 500 fps









I see I wasted my time. I should have known better getting baited by you after insulting me and another member who tried to help you.

I would wish you the best of luck but you will need more than luck if you keep this type of attitude. OCN is not the place to come insult people when you have a problem, you need to grow up a bit.

To keep it simple just avoid buying any monitor above 60hz because you will just have problems, complain that it's a computer games fault, and then insult people on the internet who try to help you.


----------



## yasamoka

This is getting ridiculous.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> *Never said it was the monitor that caused it, its just the WoW engine i assume.* Game plays marvelously with a 60hz vsynced panel (even with 60hz vsync off on the asus it played great) but once you go over that (i tried 120 and 144hz) the stutter started appearing. If i ever do buy the qnix it would only be from a seller that pays for return shipping AND no restocking fee, as *i learned one thing from my debacle with the asus 144hz is that you can research til the cows come home but you wont really know if its for you until you try it out.*


You're making irrelevant assumptions and ties here. Whatever the problem is, bringing any monitor into the equation, monitors being output devices at the end of the chain, is nonsense. 144Hz or not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> *Just played WoW with 120fps Vsync and it was smooth as butter.*


A testimony against yours.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> */facedesk*
> 
> It dont matter what caused it, ive never played on a 144hz screen before......*and even though i asked TONS on these forums as well as the WoW forums if 144hz played good in wow the answer was always YES. Just goes to show that you cant trust people, you need to test things for yourself.*


*HINT!*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> No im not worried about the qnix stuttering, because i know it wont (cause 60 FPS). Why im here is because i dont know if there are any *other* issues with it and WoW. If you look a page back i quoted a post from around page 1103 that said he found the qnix to have ghosting when strafing his character in WoW. Basically i want a REAL UPGRADE WITH NO DOWNSIDES. If i bought this qnix, and i got ghosting or any weirdness that isnt present on my 100 dollar 60hz tn monitor from 3 years ago, i would not be satisfied with my purchase. I am 100% fine with 60hz and that is why i switched my attention to 1440p, i now just want a prettier WoW with more vibrant colors, but if i have to sacrifice ANYTHING i will not upgrade.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Does my TN have a strobe? Cause i have zero ghosting with it at 60hz.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824262011
> 
> Remember i wouldnt be overclocking the qnix as the stutter would become present just like it did with the asus.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> if you have a 60hz tn and you dont have a strobe, then yes you have ghosting, you might not notice it, but you have it (thats a fact, that is the nature of the pixel response time and refresh rate). Some people just dont really notice ghosting, some people will look at your monitor and wonder how you dont notice it.
> 
> http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/60vs120vslb/
> 
> also, at 1440p I dont come close to 120 fps with 3 290x's, 32 gigs of ddr3 @2400, and a i7 4930k at 4.4ghz in wow on ultra and 8 xmsaa. I will have to figure out why I am not then. I guess I should be.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Ya i dunno man, i know what ghosting is and what causes it but to my eyes its not present on my monitor. Again, lightboost would not have fixed my issue i was having, it was a straight up bug with the WoW engine. I need to stick to 60hz, but from some of the posts in this thread regarding ghosting in WoW scare me. Wish i knew someone local i could toss WoW on their PC and try it lol. Microcenter stopped carrying all korean 1440p monitors for some reason so i would have to order from amazon and it would probably be a nightmare if i wasnt satisfied with the display.
> 
> As for why you arent getting 120 FPS.....no idea. I have heard WoW does not play well with r9 series cards (290's especially). Just do a quick search on Wow forums, tons of problems with them apparently.


There seems to be a misconception here. Ghosting is caused by pixel response times and is not to be confused with motion blur. Motion blur still occurs even if the pixels respond instantaneously as it's due to sample-and-hold, whereby the LCD monitor draws a frame and holds it for 1/refresh rate. If you move your eyes, those same pixels are still shining, and you'll get to experience motion blur. Strobing backlights reduce this motion blur by lighting up those pixels only for a short period of time (1-2ms usually). In that case, you get 1-2ms of motion blur, close enough to none.

You do get motion blur on your 60Hz TN, and you WILL get it on the Qnix. Ghosting is a different manner and TN will have faster response times if they're fast gaming monitors. The Qnix isn't slow per se, but it's slower than the newest speediest TN panels. At 60Hz, I don't think ghosting is what needs to be worried about.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I tried all 3 options:
> 
> 120FPS Vysnc.
> 60FPS Vysnc
> 120FPS+ NO Vysnc.
> None of which caused stuttering.
> The only thing I saw was screen tearing with 60FPS Vysnc and that's because the monitor was updating faster than the game was set to output.
> Even the no vysnc barely had any tearing in it.
> Besides that, I did not see any stuttering.
> 
> I'm playing the latest WoW patch with max graphics and 2560x1400 resolution.
> 
> How can you fault the game engine when someone tells you that the same exact scenario does not occur on their PC?
> The only difference between me and you would be the PC.
> 
> I don't really care that much, I just would hate to see you buy and return 100 monitors or not play a game because you think it's the monitor or game engine.
> 
> *Point being: If your trying to get someone to recommend against getting this monitor, it won't happen. These monitors are cheap, and come with features no other monitor can produce. I've had nothing but joys with mine and I would buy another in a heart beat if I needed it.*


Confirming testimony.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> *Kenny, you seem really mad for some reason lol.*


Rude.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> The game runs marvelously lol, my system has ran amazing for 3 years with literally no issues. I cannot explain why i had those weird stutters when going over 60hz, except the WoW engine.....it being 15 or whatever years old (i know the game is 10 years old, but the engine is surely older).
> 
> Yes i do understand he is trying to help, but he may be thinking i own the qnix already by his replies. Also, im not sure the korean monitors are the way to go now since i found this monitor:
> http://www.amazon.com/Acer-K272HUL-bmiidp-27-inch-Widescreen/dp/B00JB6HCIC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409553830&sr=1-1&keywords=acer+k272hul
> 
> *399.00 for a 1440p panel from a legit company with 3 year warranty.* The pixel perfect qnix is 345.00 and i assume most people add a squaretrade warranty on top of that which is at least 50 bucks, so why not just go with the name brand? I have found little info on this monitor as it seems to be fairly new, but man it seems like a really nice piece for the money. (and no worries if problems happen, surely acer has american centers if you need to send it in for warranty work etc).
> 
> I wish my local stores carried ANY of these monitors lol. Microcenter either stopped carrying the monitors altogether, or at least mine did. Best buy only has the really expensive 1440p monitors and thats pretty much the only stores near me that would carry this kind of stuff.


...this monitor doesn't even begin to compare with the Qnix...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Nah man im not trying to do that at all, its just that *wasnt the draw for korean monitors in the first place the price point? Overlocking was something that came later when people got them home and found out they could.* Im trying to figure out a monitor for myself, and for the same price as a PP qnix + square trade warranty i can get a name brand version with a proper warranty out of the box and a nice looking case on it with buttons that actually work.


What?...Yeah right now people who tend to buy them grab them for their price point, then they get surprised when they find out they can overclock once they're home. This has happened thousands of times, with every single user in here.

I mean...once it's been figured it can overclock, one of the main selling points is that it can overclock and the sellers know that.

Moving on...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> No you are right its my PC, i just formatted and now i am getting 500 FPS and my DVD drive started churning out prime rib, should have listened to you sooner : )


No, you shouldn't be given advice at all. Do us the same favor.


----------



## Scotty99

I'm not gonna quote any of that but ill just sum up some stuff.

-I had a problem with my asus 144hz monitor, when set to 120 or 144hz there would be a stutter when moving past objects in your peripheral. As you moved past them they would hitch along at a rate that was very distracting to the eyes, and the only solution to this was dropping back down to 60hz.

-Some people tried replicating this on their systems, but im still not fully sure if they were using the qnix or if either of them own the asus vg248qe as well. The reason i say this is they said they tested at 120hz and none mentioned they tried 144hz. The lack of 144hz testing made me think one of them was confused and believed i to own to qnix already.

- One person in this thread wants to blame my system for the problem, i guess i can see where he is coming from given he could not reproduce the stutter i describe above, but even after telling my PC is running top notch he still insists on blaming my rig. See to me this is to a point of not really being helpful anymore but kind of trollish.

- I posted in this thread asking if anyone who owned this monitor is also an avid WoW players (not just a weekender, someone who has played the game for years on multiple systems and knows how quirky the WoW engine can me) if they have ever ran into any problems with the qnix and WoW. Especially something very random and unexpected like the issue i described above that i had with the asus (i dont mean that exact issue, but something along the lines of that. I want to be more thorough this time because of the hassle i went through with the asus, i really thought i did my research with it but apparently i did not dig deep enough. 400 bucks is a lot of money for me, and i dont want to end up in the same situation i was with the asus where i had to pay a restocking fee and to ship it back.....if i buy this monitor i want to know for sure i will like it and plan on keeping it. Like i said earlier, i dont have any options locally so online is my only shot for a 1440p at a reasonable price.

I am still very curious to hear from an avid WoW player who owns this monitor and their experiences with it. Bonus points for someone who came from a 60hz TN panel, and if they miss anything about their old monitor. I get that i can be kind of abrasive at times, but honestly i hate it when people assume people are stupid on the internet. I mean it makes sense if you are replying to people a lot on a forum there is a good chance that most of them are stupid, but once you start assuming everyone is stupid (like apparently hulksmash does) then you arent really being helpful anymore.

I would like to add a couple more things i feel are a tad relevant:

Why the acer hate? Ya i read the articles the person posted about the acer but im still not convinced it is in any way inferior to the qnix, neither do the people in the thread replying that acer is crap unless they actually own both screens. One person even said something along these lines "lol acer, they used to ship with emachines".....so? I gave an example of gskill, i remember clearly when i built my first PC in like 2002-2003ish that gskill was brand new on the scene, my roomate was the person who got me into PC's in college and i remember him saying how terrible gskill was and to stay away from it like the plague. Ok well look at them today, gskill is one of the top ram manufacturers and no one talks down on them unless they had some DOA ram show up at their door. Sure, acer isnt a top monitor manufacturer like samsung or lg.....but they have been at it a long time and they sell a LOT of monitors. Look around at the reviews, you see tons of acer monitors with 5 star reviews and thousands of reviewers . On top of that the screen comes with a stateside warranty, a properly designed shroud where you wont have to take it apart if your unit comes with intense backlight issues, and the buttons work lol. Im not saying in any way is the acer superior to the qnix, but i AM saying for 400 bucks there is a decision to be made between the two and from my perspective the acer at least needs to be considered.


----------



## the9quad

Sounds to me like your problem is solved only by buying the monitor yourself or not. We done here?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I'm not gonna quote any of that but ill just sum up some stuff.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> -I had a problem with my asus 144hz monitor, when set to 120 or 144hz there would be a stutter when moving past objects in your peripheral. As you moved past them they would hitch along at a rate that was very distracting to the eyes, and the only solution to this was dropping back down to 60hz.
> 
> -Some people tried replicating this on their systems, but im still not fully sure if they were using the qnix or if either of them own the asus vg248qe as well. The reason i say this is they said they tested at 120hz and none mentioned they tried 144hz. The lack of 144hz testing made me think one of them was confused and believed i to own to qnix already.
> 
> - One person in this thread wants to blame my system for the problem, i guess i can see where he is coming from given he could not reproduce the stutter i describe above, but even after telling my PC is running top notch he still insists on blaming my rig. See to me this is to a point of not really being helpful anymore but kind of trollish.
> 
> 
> - I posted in this thread asking if anyone who owned this monitor is also an avid WoW players (not just a weekender, someone who has played the game for years on multiple systems and knows how quirky the WoW engine can me) if they have ever ran into any problems with the qnix and WoW. Especially something very random and unexpected like the issue i described above that i had with the asus (i dont mean that exact issue, but something along the lines of that. I want to be more thorough this time because of the hassle i went through with the asus, i really thought i did my research with it but apparently i did not dig deep enough. 400 bucks is a lot of money for me, and i dont want to end up in the same situation i was with the asus where i had to pay a restocking fee and to ship it back.....if i buy this monitor i want to know for sure i will like it and plan on keeping it. Like i said earlier, i dont have any options locally so online is my only shot for a 1440p at a reasonable price.
> 
> I am still very curious to hear from an avid WoW player who owns this monitor and their experiences with it. Bonus points for someone who came from a 60hz TN panel, and if they miss anything about their old monitor. I get that i can be kind of abrasive at times, but honestly i hate it when people assume people are stupid on the internet. I mean it makes sense if you are replying to people a lot on a forum there is a good chance that most of them are stupid, but once you start assuming everyone is stupid (like apparently hulksmash does) then you arent really being helpful anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to add a couple more things i feel are a tad relevant:
> 
> Why the acer hate? Ya i read the articles the person posted about the acer but im still not convinced it is in any way inferior to the qnix, neither do the people in the thread replying that acer is crap unless they actually own both screens. One person even said something along these lines "lol acer, they used to ship with emachines".....so? I gave an example of gskill, i remember clearly when i built my first PC in like 2002-2003ish that gskill was brand new on the scene, my roomate was the person who got me into PC's in college and i remember him saying how terrible gskill was and to stay away from it like the plague. Ok well look at them today, gskill is one of the top ram manufacturers and no one talks down on them unless they had some DOA ram show up at their door. Sure, acer isnt a top monitor manufacturer like samsung or lg.....but they have been at it a long time and they sell a LOT of monitors. Look around at the reviews, you see tons of acer monitors with 5 star reviews and thousands of reviewers . On top of that the screen comes with a stateside warranty, a properly designed shroud where you wont have to take it apart if your unit comes with intense backlight issues, and the buttons work lol. Im not saying in any way is the acer superior to the qnix, but i AM saying for 400 bucks there is a decision to be made between the two and from my perspective the acer at least needs to be considered
> 
> 
> .


WoW ... pun intended









I was with you when you were just asking for OC'd QNIX and WoW game experiences and you should just stck with that premice









But you need to stop with the insults ... "weekend warriors"









You are getting some of the most experienced and dedicated gamer advice regarding top end superclocked gaming rigs on the Net ...
MenacingTuba is BRILLIANT when it comes to evaluating ANY monitor, his post alone was purely factual and right on regarding the Acer vs QNIX analogy!

Yasamoka has takin' the time to write (code) an entire program for color applications for OC'd QNIX monitors ... his advice and knowledge with all monitors is unreproachable!

Kenny has taken the time to write entire CPU OC guides to enhance people's gaming experiences ... Weekend Warrior? Geeez.
And the Hulk politely bent over backwards to try and help you solve your concerns ...
Personally I don't think you have spent enough time with a stable overclocked system and monitor to fully appreciate what [email protected] has to offer in an "overall" gaming experience .. that's just my opinion but if you want to settle for 60Hz no one hear would honestly fault you for that!

The Squad is right ... the only way we truly solve this is for you to try a stable OC'd QNIX at your gaming station.
So hear is my advice ... you'd be surprised how many avid gamers own an OC'd QNIX right in your own town if you live in a decent sized community. I know you do because I wish we had a Microcenter here. Right here in the small city of Reno there are at least a half dozen guys doing what we're doing in this thread ... put an add in Craigslist asking to try their OC'd QNIX, even 96Hz is quite noticeable, with WoW and you'll know for sure if an OC'd QNIX is for you. You'd be surprised how helpful the higher end "overclocked gamers" community can be if you keep it simple


----------



## Scotty99

What are you babbling about, weekend warrior was in regards to WoW player. Context man, read the words around the other words! I was saying i wanted the opinion of someone who plays WoW religiously, not a casual player (weekend warrior) as their opinion on the monitor may not be as relevant to the content i do in game.

That is the second time in this thread i have been accused of insulting someone, please quote where i have insulted anyone in here. If anything i was the one being assaulted by people claiming my system is broke even tho i told them multiple times my PC runs flawlessly, very disrespectful at the least.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Quality has its price =)
> 
> Think i paid about 40eur.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Ergotron-Neo-Flex-LCD-LED-Tilt-Monitor-Display-Desk-Stand-33-310-060-/181501247704?pt=UK_Computing_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2a425140d8

It says - it is only compatible with 24" screens - any ideas bro? I didn't even look at that
Put an offer in at £20 - got countered at £25 - thinking of going for it, but I'm not sure.

Any other stand recommendations are welcome


----------



## sigmabeta

Hey guys, I'm trying to get Nvidia Surround to work with my GTX 760 card and my three 1440p LCDs. (I understand a 760 is quite under-powered to be driving even one of these things, and my expectations are calibrated with that in mind, but I still want to get it to work.)

A challenge in making this work was the connection setup - my monitor of choice is the X-Star DP2710 LED, which requires a DVI dual-link connection.The 760 only has two DVI dual-link outputs, so for my third monitor I purchased the new version (DP2710 Multi) which allows HDMI input.

The next challenge is that these monitors have very sloppy EDID encodings, and so often the operating system has to pretty much guess what resolution and refresh rate to throw at them. This is good enough to get them to work, but what the HDMI monitor reports for its capabilities is just different enough that Surround rejects it (the resolution/refresh/syncpolarity requirement.) I used the Nvidia Control Panel's custom resolution tool to get around this:



http://imgur.com/wuoLvoR


That resolution is what the HDMi monitor reports. I changed it to what the DVI monitors use, which involves lowering vertical sync width to 4, and total vertical pixels to 1481. This change is also good enough to make the monitors work (I'm using them to type this right now) and also gets me past the Surround requirements.

However, when I then try to enable Surround, immediately after clicking "Apply" my computer reboots. No error message, nothing - just straight back to the POST screen. FWIW, I've also tried switching the custom resolutions the other way around, with the same result

This is on Windows 8.1 64-bit, with Nvidia driver version 340.52. Has anyone gotten Nvidia Surround to work on their Korean panels?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Acer? Legit? Good luck trying to extract quality from an acer. Do you remember eMachines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd personally go with a no name monitor sold in a back alley before expecting Acer to give me something good


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I never said anything about image quality, the koreans probably do come out of the box better calibrated. Just saying, for 4 bills and a stateside warranty the acer is pretty darn appealing.


If I was paying in the neighborhood of $400 I'd be looking at what Overlord has to offer.


----------



## freezer2k

Quality has its price =)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Ergotron-Neo-Flex-LCD-LED-Tilt-Monitor-Display-Desk-Stand-33-310-060-/181501247704?pt=UK_Computing_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item2a425140d8
> 
> It says - it is only compatible with 24" screens - any ideas bro? I didn't even look at that
> Put an offer in at £20 - got countered at £25 - thinking of going for it, but I'm not sure.
> 
> Any other stand recommendations are welcome


Hmm, not sure about that.
Thinking about it, there will be less free-space to the bottom the bigger the screen is.

With my 23" there is about 15cm space to the desk in the highest position.

The height of an 27" screen is about 5cm greater. Assuming that the VESA mount is attached in the middle, this would give us 2.5cm less space to the desk =~ 12.5cm.

The stand has 75 and 100mm VESA mount holes, so I think 27" should still be fine. They probably capped it at 24" when the product came out and screens also were still quite a bit heavier.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Quality has its price =)
> Hmm, not sure about that.
> Thinking about it, there will be less free-space to the bottom the bigger the screen is.
> 
> With my 23" there is about 15cm space to the desk in the highest position.
> 
> The height of an 27" screen is about 5cm greater. Assuming that the VESA mount is attached in the middle, this would give us 2.5cm less space to the desk =~ 12.5cm.
> 
> The stand has 75 and 100mm VESA mount holes, so I think 27" should still be fine. They probably capped it at 24" when the product came out and screens also were still quite a bit heavier.


sweet - thanks for the info - yeah you're right.
I was wondering why it wouldn't support it - I'm guessing weight too as size wise (due to it being adjustable) - it shouldn't be a problem

+reps


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> - I posted in this thread asking if anyone who owned this monitor is also an *avid WoW player*s (not just a weekender, *someone who has played the game for years on multiple systems and knows how quirky the WoW engine can me*) if they have ever ran into any problems with the qnix and WoW. Especially something very random and unexpected like the issue i described above that i had with the asus (i dont mean that exact issue, but something along the lines of that. I want to be more thorough this time because of the hassle i went through with the asus, i really thought i did my research with it but apparently i did not dig deep enough. 400 bucks is a lot of money for me, and i dont want to end up in the same situation i was with the asus where i had to pay a restocking fee and to ship it back.....if i buy this monitor i want to know for sure i will like it and plan on keeping it. Like i said earlier, i dont have any options locally so online is my only shot for a 1440p at a reasonable price.
> 
> I am still very curious to hear from *an avid WoW player who owns this monitor and their experiences with it. Bonus points for someone who came from a 60hz TN panel*, and if they miss anything about their old monitor.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Ya whatever man, good talk.
> 
> 
> 
> No worry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people don't say things with malicious intent so it's good to not insult.
> 
> It's easier to justify something without troubleshooting, and 9/10 things can be fixed from something overlooked or a step that was skipped.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> No you are right its my PC, i just formatted and now i am getting 500 FPS and my DVD drive started churning out prime rib, should have listened to you sooner : )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Sounds to me like your problem is solved only by buying the monitor yourself or not. We done here?


----------



## Raul-7

Is the AHVA panel better than the IPS?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Is the AHVA panel better than the IPS?


*edit: I'm not that well versed on panel types so I'll just leave it to the masters to explain the details.*

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/panel_technologies_content.htm#ahva

Heres my breakdown of the article:
1. The Qnix and Xstar don't use IPS, they use S-PLS which is Samsung's "special version" of IPS. So when you buy these "Korean" monitors you are actually getting a Samsung panel.

2. The BenQ uses AHVA which is AU Optronic's "special version" of IPS.

3. PLS and AHVA were designed to be like IPS in every aspect, so that is why most people just refer to them as IPS panels (even though they technically don't use the IPS technology).

4. AHVA seems to have more cons than PLS. The major con I see is no getting past 60Hz which is a major bummer.

In conclusion, I would go for PLS any day over AHVA.


----------



## hammelgammler

Hey guys,
I just want to ask you which option would be the best in my case.

I run three qnix qx2710 with a nvidia gtx 780ti, and the third one with a Dell bizlink 0x625 adapter, which will, i think, only make 80hz.

The middle monitor will run at 110hz all the time, with drastic reduced settings, but im unsure at which settings i should run the other 2.

For nvidia surround, the highest overclocking with the monitor with adapter would be the best, but what is for videos and daily usage?
Videos will mainly seen on the 110hz one.

So should i use "(80 - 110 - 80)", or "(72 - 110 - 72)", or maybe something else?

Thanks.

Edit: I should mention that the only form of videos im consuming are youtube videos, and not cinema movies, maybe theres a huge difference. 120hz is also working with the main monitor, but dont know if thats worth it to have a 459mhz pixel clock.


----------



## SirCrabsAlot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwong48*
> 
> I got mine (well, my second one, after my first one died) a couple days ago as well, and I set it up just now. It's the PLS DVI-D only one, so the same one, except I got matte this time instead of glossy.
> 
> 
> 
> Like you, this is what happens when I choose 120Hz. Except 110Hz works for me. Sorry for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old/first DP2710 - the one that died.


I was just curious how long you had your old one before it died? Mainly, was it premature? I haven't heard any statistics on how long these monitors are lasting and what is usually the first to "go" whether it be something like a long life with standard dimming or a trending sudden voltage PS failure. I'm buying one regardless in 2 days. Just was curious. Thanks.


----------



## stingray1337

Hi could i bother someone on how i can memory downclock with my current setup?
Monitor is oced to 96hz but my first card in sli setup is heating up 10 degrees more than the other. Using sli patch + nvidiacp


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stingray1337*
> 
> Hi could i bother someone on how i can memory downclock with my current setup?
> Monitor is oced to 96hz but my first card in sli setup is heating up 10 degrees more than the other. Using sli patch + nvidiacp


First card will always be 5-10C hotter in an air cooler SLI set up.


----------



## rwong48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirCrabsAlot*
> 
> I was just curious how long you had your old one before it died? Mainly, was it premature? I haven't heard any statistics on how long these monitors are lasting and what is usually the first to "go" whether it be something like a long life with standard dimming or a trending sudden voltage PS failure. I'm buying one regardless in 2 days. Just was curious. Thanks.


My post (sorta) linked to http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/19980#post_22724146

Bought August 5, 2013
Received August 12, 2013
Died August 17, 2014

120Hz almost the whole time. It started having issues a few weeks before it died, so I switched it to 110Hz then 96Hz.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirCrabsAlot*
> 
> I was just curious how long you had your old one before it died? Mainly, was it premature? I haven't heard any statistics on how long these monitors are lasting and what is usually the first to "go" whether it be something like a long life with standard dimming or a trending sudden voltage PS failure. I'm buying one regardless in 2 days. Just was curious. Thanks.


I am as well. I had a similar issue after a week. I went to fiddling and mine was occurring from the cables. While it wasn't the DVI-D cable itself but from another monitor using the gpu's display port. It was very weird but I did not mess with it further, I am just hoping it's not a monitor issue and the problem doesn't pop up again.

Removing the monitor from vesa mount, installing the stock mount and all the work to send it back for warranty is not very fun


----------



## Rhaxas

Hey, does anyone know where I can buy m4 8mm screws to mount this monitor? I went to Home Depot and they said they didn't have any, it seems to be something hard to find here in Canada from what I hear.

If anyone could help me find a place that ships within Canada, or has any other suggestions that would be great.

Thanks.


----------



## stingray1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> First card will always be 5-10C hotter in an air cooler SLI set up.


Nope. With all due respect, I know what my temperatures are before and after the monitor overclock. I am sure it is around 10 degrees hotter after i press apply in the NVCP.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stingray1337*
> 
> Nope. With all due respect, I know what my temperatures are before and after the monitor overclock. I am sure it is around 10 degrees hotter after i press apply in the NVCP.


No you don't...
GPU1 is hotter as it takes the initial load first, that's why it runs slightly hotter (not 10c hotter but under 5c hotter)
I have an SLI 680 setup.

Regarding your setup - it wouldn't ahve to do with the OC of the monitor at all - as the FPS from your GPU (unless you previously had vsyn) would still be outputting the same amount.
OR - if you had a 1080P screen and now have 1440p -> then naturally you're going to run hotter.
I run probably 10-20c hotter on 1440p


----------



## darthdirty

ok so i have to ask.... is it still worth it to get one of these monitors?? with the Asus Swift out should i just wait to get that(pretty much out of stock) or should i get one of these... price is always about $300 and i want a 1440 monitor. what does everyone think??


----------



## stingray1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No you don't...
> GPU1 is hotter as it takes the initial load first, that's why it runs slightly hotter (not 10c hotter but under 5c hotter)
> I have an SLI 680 setup.
> 
> Regarding your setup - it wouldn't ahve to do with the OC of the monitor at all - as the FPS from your GPU (unless you previously had vsyn) would still be outputting the same amount.
> OR - if you had a 1080P screen and now have 1440p -> then naturally you're going to run hotter.
> I run probably 10-20c hotter on 1440p


Sorry I should clarify. I am talking about idle desktop temperatures before and after overclock. Memory is not downclocking when idling (doing absolutely nothing with nothing open) though my 2nd card does downclock.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stingray1337*
> 
> Sorry I should clarify. I am talking about idle desktop temperatures before and after overclock. Memory is not downclocking when idling (doing absolutely nothing with nothing open) though my 2nd card does downclock.


Reinstall drivers + Afterburner + GPUZ


----------



## yasamoka

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> ok so i have to ask.... is it still worth it to get one of these monitors?? with the Asus Swift out should i just wait to get that(pretty much out of stock) or should i get one of these... price is always about $300 and i want a 1440 monitor. what does everyone think??


In a nutshell...

Qnix has a PLS panel (Samsung's take on IPS). ASUS has a TN panel, higher quality than most TN panels. 8-bit, though it shouldn't matter for color reproduction much (unlike what most think).

PLS > TN, in color reproduction, viewing angles, uniformity. TN will shift even as you're looking at it straight on, although the extent to which this effect might bother someone varies. TN has faster response times, particularly the ROG Swift panel as it's required to be fast enough (at least when it's forced to, if you have to reduce the color range to get to that point) to do ULMB which is a strobing backlight with a 2ms persistence per strobe @ a max of 120Hz. Meaning, the TN panel has to be done refreshing before 8.33ms - 2ms = 6.33ms. The faster it refreshes, the earlier you can strobe, reducing the input lag caused by waiting until near the end of the refresh to strobe.

The Qnix will very likely have better perceived black levels, disregarding the contrast ratio reading (blacks can look bluish on most panels, giving off the sense of poorer black levels than a lower-contrast ratio, but more neutral black Qnix panel, such as mine at ~900:1). The glossy bezel will impact how the blacks look, however, though I don't mind.

PLS, like IPS, has glow. The extent to which this effect might bother someone varies. Some panels have it better than others. Some are rare in that they have no glow, and they're believed to be Eizo EV2736W panel rejects as only Eizo has an IPS monitor that has no IPS glow.

Colors on the ASUS will probably look worse at 144Hz than at 60Hz, and ULMB is most likely to alter color reproduction as well. The ASUS, however, ships with very good presets out-of-the-box, nearing a gamma of 2.2 and having a color temperature closer to the reference 6500K like most other monitors.

The Qnix will most likely have the ASUS beat out on the factory color accuracy, and being a PLS, will have the aforementioned advantages.

The ASUS has G-Sync (major), and ships with 144Hz out-of-the-box. The Qnix can generally overclock to at least 96Hz. many, if not most, will do 110Hz. Some, or a good portion, will do 120Hz.

The Qnix has side effects from overclocking. Gamma shift, uniformity issues (right side darkening), and image retention. All issues can be reduced by lowering your overclock (e.g. 96Hz, 110Hz). The first can be corrected for using color profiles (check out the Color Sustainer Guru3D thread and its sister thread dealing with the issue of games & color profiles). The second and third are not an issue in games. They will be noticeable on the desktop particularly at higher refresh rates, and static content will cause temporary image retention that goes away when you set the monitor back to 60Hz.

This means that you will most likely be running the Qnix at 60Hz - 96Hz on the desktop, while the ASUS will run at a flat 144Hz wherever you take it.

The Qnix has slower response times due to the PLS panel, and this will create more ghosting. The panel might not keep up in all cases with the higher refresh rates such as 100 - 120Hz and the colors could smear, meaning you get the benefit of more smoothness and less stutter with mismatching FPS, but little benefit in the motion blur department. In motion, the faster TN panel will allow you to see more details with less blur as you're panning or moving around. ULMB mode will ~eliminate motion blur and allow almost CRT-level motion clarity, but with worse color reproduction and black levels.

Playing fast shooters and racers will feel better on the ASUS due to reduced ghosting and motion blur. All other genres will likely benefit more from the Qnix's superior color reproduction, particularly strategy games. It it lovely to have no motion blur in whatever game you play, but for the first two mentioned genres, it will make the most impact (particularly the first).

Finally, price: ~$300s for the Qnix, $800+ for the Swift, depending on where you live. In Europe, that's equivalent to over ~$1k in many places.

If you want any more expansion, I would be glad to do so. This was in a nutshell.


----------



## Taint3dBulge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> ok so i have to ask.... is it still worth it to get one of these monitors?? with the Asus Swift out should i just wait to get that(pretty much out of stock) or should i get one of these... price is always about $300 and i want a 1440 monitor. what does everyone think??


Best money iv spent...

I want to get 2 more, but i need to get 2 more 780Ti's before i do that.. lol.. I want 100fps, cant go under since i saw how good 100hz looks on this thing!


----------



## stingray1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Reinstall drivers + Afterburner + GPUZ


Thanks for the tip! although i already did reinstall drivers once using DDU saw no difference. I will try reinstalling afterburner and gpu z again.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stingray1337*
> 
> Sorry I should clarify. I am talking about idle desktop temperatures before and after overclock. Memory is not downclocking when idling (doing absolutely nothing with nothing open) though my 2nd card does downclock.


Well that makes more sense. I thought you were talking about load temps in which case I would have been right.

I have experienced what you were talking about and it has something to do with a power idle state not enabling because of the overclock. The same thing happens with 120hz 1080p monitors, at least in my experience. What I did to fix it was to have it at a lower refresh rate on the desktop and higher in nvcp so that I got the higher refresh rate in games where it matters.


----------



## stingray1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Well that makes more sense. I thought you were talking about load temps in which case I would have been right.
> 
> I have experienced what you were talking about and it has something to do with a power idle state not enabling because of the overclock. The same thing happens with 120hz 1080p monitors, at least in my experience. What I did to fix it was to have it at a lower refresh rate on the desktop and higher in nvcp so that I got the higher refresh rate in games where it matters.


I just remembered I turned off all power saving features in bios and on windows for my overclock haha. So i guess you are right but im just wondering if there is any issue of constantly changing ur monitors pixel clock or does it not matter?

EDIT: reinstalling drivers and afterburner didnt work


----------



## ProperMod

Asus Swift??????

Q: What do you do when you have a bad pixel on a TN panel?

A: You don't care because as Scott Wasson of Tech Report fame says, "every pixel on a TN panel is a bad pixel".


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProperMod*
> 
> Asus Swift??????
> 
> Q: What do you do when you have a bad pixel on a TN panel?
> 
> A: You don't care because as Scott Wasson of Tech Report fame says, "every pixel on a TN panel is a bad pixel".


Made me laugh


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If you want any more expansion, I would be glad to do so. This was in a nutshell.


Your idea of a nutshell and mine vary considerably... Nice summary!


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> false
> In a nutshell...
> 
> Qnix has a PLS panel (Samsung's take on IPS). ASUS has a TN panel, higher quality than most TN panels. 8-bit, though it shouldn't matter for color reproduction much (unlike what most think).
> 
> PLS > TN, in color reproduction, viewing angles, uniformity. TN will shift even as you're looking at it straight on, although the extent to which this effect might bother someone varies. TN has faster response times, particularly the ROG Swift panel as it's required to be fast enough (at least when it's forced to, if you have to reduce the color range to get to that point) to do ULMB which is a strobing backlight with a 2ms persistence per strobe @ a max of 120Hz. Meaning, the TN panel has to be done refreshing before 8.33ms - 2ms = 6.33ms. The faster it refreshes, the earlier you can strobe, reducing the input lag caused by waiting until near the end of the refresh to strobe.
> 
> The Qnix will very likely have better perceived black levels, disregarding the contrast ratio reading (blacks can look bluish on most panels, giving off the sense of poorer black levels than a lower-contrast ratio, but more neutral black Qnix panel, such as mine at ~900:1). The glossy bezel will impact how the blacks look, however, though I don't mind.
> 
> PLS, like IPS, has glow. The extent to which this effect might bother someone varies. Some panels have it better than others. Some are rare in that they have no glow, and they're believed to be Eizo EV2736W panel rejects as only Eizo has an IPS monitor that has no IPS glow.
> 
> Colors on the ASUS will probably look worse at 144Hz than at 60Hz, and ULMB is most likely to alter color reproduction as well. The ASUS, however, ships with very good presets out-of-the-box, nearing a gamma of 2.2 and having a color temperature closer to the reference 6500K like most other monitors.
> 
> The Qnix will most likely have the ASUS beat out on the factory color accuracy, and being a PLS, will have the aforementioned advantages.
> 
> The ASUS has G-Sync (major), and ships with 144Hz out-of-the-box. The Qnix can generally overclock to at least 96Hz. many, if not most, will do 110Hz. Some, or a good portion, will do 120Hz.
> 
> The Qnix has side effects from overclocking. Gamma shift, uniformity issues (right side darkening), and image retention. All issues can be reduced by lowering your overclock (e.g. 96Hz, 110Hz). The first can be corrected for using color profiles (check out the Color Sustainer Guru3D thread and its sister thread dealing with the issue of games & color profiles). The second and third are not an issue in games. They will be noticeable on the desktop particularly at higher refresh rates, and static content will cause temporary image retention that goes away when you set the monitor back to 60Hz.
> 
> This means that you will most likely be running the Qnix at 60Hz - 96Hz on the desktop, while the ASUS will run at a flat 144Hz wherever you take it.
> 
> The Qnix has slower response times due to the PLS panel, and this will create more ghosting. The panel might not keep up in all cases with the higher refresh rates such as 100 - 120Hz and the colors could smear, meaning you get the benefit of more smoothness and less stutter with mismatching FPS, but little benefit in the motion blur department. In motion, the faster TN panel will allow you to see more details with less blur as you're panning or moving around. ULMB mode will ~eliminate motion blur and allow almost CRT-level motion clarity, but with worse color reproduction and black levels.
> 
> Playing fast shooters and racers will feel better on the ASUS due to reduced ghosting and motion blur. All other genres will likely benefit more from the Qnix's superior color reproduction, particularly strategy games. It it lovely to have no motion blur in whatever game you play, but for the first two mentioned genres, it will make the most impact (particularly the first).
> 
> Finally, price: ~$300s for the Qnix, $800+ for the Swift, depending on where you live. In Europe, that's equivalent to over ~$1k in many places.
> 
> If you want any more expansion, I would be glad to do so. This was in a nutshell.


wow thanx... i want a new monitor now just really on the fence about it, but u would get the Qnix still???


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Any other users experience the red vertical lines when powering the monitor off/on after long period of time?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Any other users experience the red vertical lines when powering the monitor off/on after long period of time?


I get sporadic flickering 1 pixel high horizontal lines when I'm viewing dark objects when overclocked to 120Hz.
They don't occur often and aren't bothersome.

Other than that, no issues.


----------



## hammelgammler

Anyone who drives is monitor @ 120Hz 24/7 with manual timings?
With 110Hz, the pixel clock is at 421,8271MHz, so under the 450MHz which is seen as "normal" for the intern PCB.

120Hz with a pixel clock of ~460MHz works for me, but i dont know if its worth the risk to have that as my daily driver.
Advantage would be to have the best refresh rate for everything, movies and anime (24fps/23,9...fps), youtube (depents, 24fps/30fps/60fps) and of course games (120fps).

A question to the owners who sadly lost their qnix (maybe due to 120Hz 24/7), at which pixel clock did you run 120Hz?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Anyone who drives is monitor @ 120Hz 24/7 with manual timings?
> With 110Hz, the pixel clock is at 421,8271MHz, so under the 450MHz which is seen as "normal" for the intern PCB.
> 
> 120Hz with a pixel clock of ~460MHz works for me, but i dont know if its worth the risk to have that as my daily driver.
> Advantage would be to have the best refresh rate for everything, movies and anime (24fps/23,9...fps), youtube (depents, 24fps/30fps/60fps) and of course games (120fps).
> 
> A question to the owners who sadly lost their qnix (maybe due to 120Hz 24/7), at which pixel clock did you run 120Hz?


I've ran this setup for about 8 months so far:


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stingray1337*
> 
> Sorry I should clarify. I am talking about idle desktop temperatures before and after overclock. Memory is not downclocking when idling (doing absolutely nothing with nothing open) though my 2nd card does downclock.


Your on the right track "This is a Known Problem" ... and without knowing the exact details of your set-up and overclock, I'll direct you *HERE - OP* ... Lawson and I hammered this out a few months back (May?) try *HERE* or *HERE* or do an advanced search w/our user names








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Reinstall drivers + Afterburner + GPUZ


This is always a staple of troubleshooting, but in Stingrays case it really won't address his problem









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Anyone who drives is monitor @ 120Hz 24/7 with manual timings?
> With 110Hz, the pixel clock is at 421,8271MHz, so under the 450MHz which is seen as "normal" for the intern PCB.
> 
> 120Hz with a pixel clock of ~460MHz works for me, but i dont know if its worth the risk to have that as my daily driver.
> Advantage would be to have the best refresh rate for everything, movies and anime (24fps/23,9...fps), youtube (depents, 24fps/30fps/60fps) and of course games (120fps).
> 
> A question to the owners who sadly lost their qnix (maybe due to 120Hz 24/7), at which pixel clock did you run 120Hz?


Many of us have reduced our 24/7 OC's to 110Hz, as an extra pixel clock safety precaution, even though our monitors are quite capable of 120Hz+ which I still use when the gaming profile has that preset ... see my links above


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Your on the right track "This is a Known Problem" ... and without knowing the exact details of your set-up and overclock, I'll direct you *HERE - OP* ... Lawson and I hammered this out a few months back (May?) try *HERE* or *HERE* or do an advanced search w/our user names
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is always a staple of troubleshooting, but in Stingrays case it really won't address his problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of us have reduced our 24/7 OC's to 110Hz, as an extra pixel clock safety precaution, even though our monitors are quite capable of 120Hz+ which I still use when the gaming profile has that preset ... see my links above


Why not?
How are the two linked - at all?
From the thread linked, there wasn't any explanation of it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> wow thanx... i want a new monitor now just really on the fence about it, but u would get the Qnix still???


Honestly, I would be pretty confused. I have the Qnix now, and I love it, as long as I maintain high FPS ~refresh rate. The gorgeous colors are pleasing to the eyes, and I'm not particularly bothered by motion blur. Keeping my FPS continuously high means G-Sync is of less benefit to me. And I get to keep a PLS panel with no shifts across portions of the screen even as you keep your head straight.

For me, the release of the ROG Swift has made the Qnix harder for total recommendation, but I probably wouldn't get an ROG Swift now that all monitors I use on a daily basis are ~IPS high-resolution monitors (2560x1440 desktop, 3200x1800 laptop, 1920x1080 phone). The $800 price tag for the ROG Swift is purely horrid.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I get sporadic flickering 1 pixel high horizontal lines when I'm viewing dark objects when overclocked to 120Hz.
> They don't occur often and aren't bothersome.
> 
> Other than that, no issues.


How do you get rid of? I have to press the frame of the monitor in weird angles for mine. It literally only happens when monitor is off for long periods of time.

Trying to figure out if shipping this to Korea will be necessary


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Honestly, I would be pretty confused. I have the Qnix now, and I love it, as long as I maintain high FPS ~refresh rate. The gorgeous colors are pleasing to the eyes, and I'm not particularly bothered by motion blur. Keeping my FPS continuously high means G-Sync is of less benefit to me. And I get to keep a PLS panel with no shifts across portions of the screen even as you keep your head straight.
> 
> For me, the release of the ROG Swift has made the Qnix harder for total recommendation, but I probably wouldn't get an ROG Swift now that all monitors I use on a daily basis are ~IPS high-resolution monitors (2560x1440 desktop, 3200x1800 laptop, 1920x1080 phone). The $800 price tag for the ROG Swift is purely horrid.


ok there its is im going to order one on Ebay when i get paid... do u recommend any seller?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> ok there its is im going to order one on Ebay when i get paid... do u recommend any seller?


Accessorieswhole!


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Accessorieswhole!


thank you very much


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Color Sustainer shouldn't interfere with displays that are deleted. Can you describe exactly what you're doing?
> 
> Have you tried using the QuickGamma profile inside Color Sustainer?


Played around a bit and no luck. I have a profile via sustainer on my main monitor. I delete my 2nd qnix monitor on the list and make sure it has nothing stored. I then goto quickgamma or nvidia CPanel and change the settings. It refreshes and sets back to default when I touch it, color sustainer is causing this, because when I stop it, it doesnt overwrite.

I am not aware of how to use quick gamma to export a profile, its all automatic.


----------



## Rhaxas

http://www.amazon.ca/Atomik-M4-8mm-Screw-6pcs/dp/B00ART33YE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409802652&sr=8-1&keywords=m4+8mm+screw

Does anyone know if these good screws to use for mounting this monitor? The screws that came with the stand I purchased are too long, and people in this thread recommened m4 8mm. I just don't know if the cap is the best.


----------



## arealMESSiah

I received my X-Star DP2710LED from dream-seller a few days ago. The monitor box wasn't damaged on the outside other than looking "dirty" from shipment, if you know what I mean, so I was pleased at that sight.

Then I powered it on, and I spotted one bright pixel in the lower left portion of the display, and there's one green stuck pixel toward the left-middle area. I don't think I can do anything about the bright pixel, and its position lends it not to bother me at all anyway, but I can't seem to fix the stuck pixel.

I've tried tapping, poking, rubbing, UDPixel for a few hours, and JScreenFix for some amount of hours (I fell asleep, so..







), but nothing has worked so far. Any other tips?

I also mounted my monitor using Monoprice's 3 Way Adjustable Tilting Desk Mount Bracket. The included screws for the VESA bracket were too long. I didn't have any shorter M4 screws, so I just added some 1/4" washers to those included with the desk mount, and it's been stable and secure so far.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> thank you very much


You're welcome! I'd only recommend them because I have used them, and others have as well. I plan on purchasing another one fairly soon, and then eventually two-three more.


----------



## hammelgammler

Does anyone know something about side effects when doing a lower pixel count of 2652 horizontal and 1446 vertical?

110Hz works for me with 2648 - 1444, which is 1MHz lower Pixel clock...


----------



## Rhaxas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arealMESSiah*
> 
> I received my X-Star DP2710LED from dream-seller a few days ago. The monitor box wasn't damaged on the outside other than looking "dirty" from shipment, if you know what I mean, so I was pleased at that sight.
> 
> Then I powered it on, and I spotted one bright pixel in the lower left portion of the display, and there's one green stuck pixel toward the left-middle area. I don't think I can do anything about the bright pixel, and its position lends it not to bother me at all anyway, but I can't seem to fix the stuck pixel.
> 
> I've tried tapping, poking, rubbing, UDPixel for a few hours, and JScreenFix for some amount of hours (I fell asleep, so..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but nothing has worked so far. Any other tips?
> 
> I also mounted my monitor using Monoprice's 3 Way Adjustable Tilting Desk Mount Bracket. The included screws for the VESA bracket were too long. I didn't have any shorter M4 screws, so I just added some 1/4" washers to those included with the desk mount, and it's been stable and secure so far.


May I ask what kind of washers you used?


----------



## skilly

Hey guys! It's been a while since I've posted here. I think my X-Star DP2710 died on me.. Maybe it's fixable? I hope. Any help would be appreciated, I'm searching through the thread too but I figured somebody might have a quick answer for me.

I usually have it overclocked to 110hz with the Nvidia Control panel. Its been working flawlessly since Aug 2013, so I guess about a year, no issues at all. It took a little tinkering to get 120hz to run without lines, using the patch, etc. But when I was able to use the Nvidia Control Panel I just set it at 110hz and left it.

I woke up this morning and something was making a popping sound, almost like a clock. Pop, pop, pop.. I thought it was a sound from outside or something.. I turned on my PC, it had no picture on the monitor and the pop sound got louder.. I don't know what the popping sound is but it seems like it is coming from the speakers (I've never even tried using them). Every 30 seconds or so the monitor would flicker on for about a half-second and then go black again. The power button does not turn off the monitor or the popping sound, the only way to make the sound stop is to pull the plug.

That's really it.. I tried playing around with the DVI cable, the power adapter but its the same. I plugged the monitor into another socket without the PC and it still makes the popping sound and again, the power button does nothing. I'm hoping maybe its a loose wire or something inside?









Any ideas? I'll probably open it later tonight or over the weekend but if you guys think its fried maybe I'll just get rid of it. I'm on a 21-inch 1080p 60hz screen now.. Oh, the humanity!









Thank you for any advice.


----------



## ninecats

it might be a blown capacitor.


----------



## SirCrabsAlot

Woo! Finally took the plunge and clicked "Buy Now". Been lurking too long. I just ordered today so once it arrives I'll post pics if ya'll want. Also, can I join the club or should I wait till it ships?

I chose BigClothCraft as the seller since the price was better than the others at the moment. GreenSum is on vacation till the 9th by the way.

Probably going to get a SquareTrade warranty but I'm still on the fence about it. US shipping is the main selling point for sure. Anyway, I'll see ya'll later


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirCrabsAlot*
> 
> Woo! Finally took the plunge and clicked "Buy Now". Been lurking too long. I just ordered today so once it arrives I'll post pics if ya'll want. Also, can I join the club or should I wait till it ships?
> 
> I chose BigClothCraft as the seller since the price was better than the others at the moment. GreenSum is on vacation till the 9th by the way.
> 
> Probably going to get a SquareTrade warranty but I'm still on the fence about it. US shipping is the main selling point for sure. Anyway, I'll see ya'll later


http://i.minus.com/iCNYmgzgM5VzF.gif


----------



## carv

Just got my QX2710 today, plugged it all in, pressed the power button, and it doesn't turn on. I notice the green light on the power adapter is blinking green every two seconds, should it be doing that? Because other than that seeming weird, I feel like what I got is DOA. Unless there's some crazy way of turning it on that I don't know of.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carv*
> 
> Just got my QX2710 today, plugged it all in, pressed the power button, and it doesn't turn on. I notice the green light on the power adapter is blinking green every two seconds, should it be doing that? Because other than that seeming weird, I feel like what I got is DOA. Unless there's some crazy way of turning it on that I don't know of.


bad power supply.


----------



## carv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> bad power supply.


That's what I'm thinking, however I noticed that when I unplug the power supply from the monitor, the light stays steady green. Still signs of a bad power supply?


----------



## darthdirty

i just hope that can be fixed... if it can let me know


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carv*
> 
> That's what I'm thinking, however I noticed that when I unplug the power supply from the monitor, the light stays steady green. Still signs of a bad power supply?


Or it could be the board in the monitor.. I would start with the psu first.


----------



## carv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Or it could be the board in the monitor.. I would start with the psu first.


Hopefully it's just the PSU because I don't wan't to have to ship this thing back to S. Korea. I already messaged the seller on eBay with what's going on so I should be hearing back soon.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carv*
> 
> Hopefully it's just the PSU because I don't wan't to have to ship this thing back to S. Korea. I already messaged the seller on eBay with what's going on so I should be hearing back soon.


good luck! Keep us posted.


----------



## arealMESSiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rhaxas*
> 
> May I ask what kind of washers you used?


I have a bunch of these from Home Depot. Those are the exact ones I used. They fit perfectly well, as you can see in my pic.


----------



## carv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> good luck! Keep us posted.


The seller got back to me saying that they think it's the power adapter, going to be shipping out a new one today, so hopefully that's it









I'll post again once I connect it.


----------



## freezer2k

Hey guys,

I got my Qnix yesterday. The UPS man wasn't handling the package very carefully, which made me think of the worst









First impressions are quite good though. Can't find any dead pixels (did not order pixel perfect), and screen uniformity is quite good. I like the colours, much more pleasing than TN panels.

I attached the screen to my Ergotron NeoFlex stand via the VESA mount. There seems to be still some play even after fastening the screws really tight -- but it seems like this is 'normal' for the Qnix? Also had to use shims as the screws were too long.

Attached the screen via an 0.5m PureLink high quality cable to my GTX 750. Wanted to test it with the best cable connection possible.

Tried some overclocking, and 120Hz does not work even with the tightened timings and lower pixel clock.
110Hz worked the first time I tested it (before installing Qnix monitor drivers), but the 2nd time after installing the Qnix monitor drivers it also had green lines. Not sure if this is related to the drivers or the limit of the panel is reached.
Shouldn't be so bad though, as I love even 100Hz a lot. Is 100Hz save for 24/7 usage? Also considering that my screen seems to not go higher than ~110hz.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Hi guys, I know I've dragged this one up before, but to run 3 of these in surround I would need a third titan, am I right in saying?

Or is this only true for overclocking past 60Hz?

I currently have my three 1080p monitors plugged in DVI/DVI/HDMI.


----------



## Sorara

Hey guys. I have run into a weird problem, I'm getting this message when I try to apply qnix.inf in the device manager on the monitor. Is there any known workaround? I'm on windows 7 with gtx 780 if it matters.



EDIT: I was able to solve this problem. Posting what I found to be the answer in case anyone needs it.

1) Choose "Update Driver Software"
2) Choose "Browse my computer for driver software"
3) Choose "Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer"
4) Click "Have Disk" button
5) Select the directory with the correct drivers and then select the monitor make/model


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I got my Qnix yesterday. The UPS man wasn't handling the package very carefully, which made me think of the worst
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions are quite good though. Can't find any dead pixels (did not order pixel perfect), and screen uniformity is quite good. I like the colours, much more pleasing than TN panels.
> 
> I attached the screen to my Ergotron NeoFlex stand via the VESA mount. There seems to be still some play even after fastening the screws really tight -- but it seems like this is 'normal' for the Qnix? Also had to use shims as the screws were too long.
> 
> Attached the screen via an 0.5m PureLink high quality cable to my GTX 750. Wanted to test it with the best cable connection possible.
> 
> Tried some overclocking, and 120Hz does not work even with the tightened timings and lower pixel clock.
> 110Hz worked the first time I tested it (before installing Qnix monitor drivers), but the 2nd time after installing the Qnix monitor drivers it also had green lines. Not sure if this is related to the drivers or the limit of the panel is reached.
> Shouldn't be so bad though, as I love even 100Hz a lot. Is 100Hz save for 24/7 usage? Also considering that my screen seems to not go higher than ~110hz.


Okay,
it seems like even at 100Hz there are some minor graphic errors, like an area of pixels flimmering on certain background colours. At 94Hz this does not happen anymore.

Can this still be considered normal?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I got my Qnix yesterday. The UPS man wasn't handling the package very carefully, which made me think of the worst
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First impressions are quite good though. Can't find any dead pixels (did not order pixel perfect), and screen uniformity is quite good. I like the colours, much more pleasing than TN panels.
> 
> I attached the screen to my Ergotron NeoFlex stand via the VESA mount. There seems to be still some play even after fastening the screws really tight -- but it seems like this is 'normal' for the Qnix? Also had to use shims as the screws were too long.
> 
> Attached the screen via an 0.5m PureLink high quality cable to my GTX 750. Wanted to test it with the best cable connection possible.
> 
> Tried some overclocking, and 120Hz does not work even with the tightened timings and lower pixel clock.
> 110Hz worked the first time I tested it (before installing Qnix monitor drivers), but the 2nd time after installing the Qnix monitor drivers it also had green lines. Not sure if this is related to the drivers or the limit of the panel is reached.
> Shouldn't be so bad though, as I love even 100Hz a lot. Is 100Hz save for 24/7 usage? Also considering that my screen seems to not go higher than ~110hz.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay,
> it seems like even at 100Hz there are some minor graphic errors, like an area of pixels flimmering on certain background colours. At 94Hz this does not happen anymore.
> 
> Can this still be considered normal?
Click to expand...

I would run either 96Hz or 90Hz to be a divisible ratio of 24fps movie content or 30fps tv/youtube content.

The lines are normal when overclocking. Mine does that on dark colors when overclocked to 120Hz.
It's artifacts of overclocking slightly past what the board can handle.
It doesn't bother me so I keep mine at 120Hz all the time.

In your case, I'm going to recommend 90Hz. No artifacts and no frame drops for anything but 24fps movies.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I would run either 96Hz or 90Hz to be a divisible ratio of 24fps movie content or 30fps tv/youtube content.
> 
> The lines are normal when overclocking. Mine does that on dark colors when overclocked to 120Hz.
> It's artifacts of overclocking slightly past what the board can handle.
> It doesn't bother me so I keep mine at 120Hz all the time.
> 
> In your case, I'm going to recommend 90Hz. No artifacts and no frame drops for anything but 24fps movies.


Thanks,

Wonder if this will slowly kill the board, if it's above what it can handle?

It seems like here have been quite some reports of monitors that broke after about a year.

I hope 90Hz will be safe for 24/7 usage









PS: The cable that came with the monitor and the very short high quality one i bought exhibit the exact same behaviour @ 100Hz.
Does that mean that high quality cables are not that important <100Hz?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Why not?
> How are the two linked - at all?
> From the thread linked, there wasn't any explanation of it.


Hey Dubbed sorry for the slow response, I was just waiting for Stingray to get back to us with more info/results, like even a screenie of his timings ... we're still waiting









Anyway I never meant to imply your suggestion wasn't valid as I assumed he had already done that. Guess I jumped the gun as maybe he was only talking about his power states @ 96Hz ??? I thought he was trying 110/120Hz custom timings?
When OC'd beyond the pixel clock limit with non-standard timings the GPU's ram in a low-power state cannot keep up with the vertical blanking requirements and defaults to the high performance or high demand state (voltage) and is why almost everyone was seeing an increase in their GPU desktop idle temps of almost exactly 10c, this could be compounded in some SLI setups but single cards were also seeing the same increase









Toasty gave a more in depth explanation over on his website if I can find it again I'll link it


----------



## darthdirty

should i oder the Pixel Perfect X-Star?? its $30 more.... im nervous about ordering one and it being dead


----------



## freezer2k

Looks like
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> should i oder the Pixel Perfect X-Star?? its $30 more.... im nervous about ordering one and it being dead


Looks like quite some people ordered Pixel Perfect but got one with dead pixels, it seems very random. Most people believe it's just a scam for more money and they check no monitor.


----------



## hammelgammler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I would run either 96Hz or 90Hz to be a divisible ratio of 24fps movie content or 30fps tv/youtube content.
> 
> The lines are normal when overclocking. Mine does that on dark colors when overclocked to 120Hz.
> It's artifacts of overclocking slightly past what the board can handle.
> It doesn't bother me so I keep mine at 120Hz all the time.
> 
> In your case, I'm going to recommend 90Hz. No artifacts and no frame drops for anything but 24fps movies.


Hey ho,

what would you guys suggest when the max refresh rate is 83Hz?

Also: I bought five "DELL BizLink 0XT625" Displayport to Dual Link DVI Adapters, to check wether or not there are differences.
Two worked with max 79Hz, two with 81Mhz and one with 83Hz.

Got them for 21€ each, does anyone know any other adapter which works up to 96Hz?

When gaming with Nvidia Surround (Minecraft, old games), i would play at 83Hz for all three monitors, but i think 83Hz is not the best for videos?
But: Videos would be watched (youtube only), 95% of the time on the main monitor, which runs at 110Hz, so i think 83Hz should be okay for the other two's for desktop things only.

Thanks.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hey Dubbed sorry for the slow response, I was just waiting for Stingray to get back to us with more info/results, like even a screenie of his timings ... we're still waiting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I never meant to imply your suggestion wasn't valid as I assumed he had already done that. Guess I jumped the gun as maybe he was only talking about his power states @ 96Hz ??? I thought he was trying 110/120Hz custom timings?
> When OC'd beyond the pixel clock limit with non-standard timings the GPU's ram in a low-power state cannot keep up with the vertical blanking requirements and defaults to the high performance or high demand state (voltage) and is why almost everyone was seeing an increase in their GPU desktop idle temps of almost exactly 10c, this could be compounded in some SLI setups but single cards were also seeing the same increase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toasty gave a more in depth explanation over on his website if I can find it again I'll link it


Well, from my understandings it was normal timings that were supposedly giving problems and heating up his GPU - which to me is impossible.
If you tinker with the settings, then sure, I can see somewhat how it would effect it.
Correct me if I'm wrong though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> should i oder the Pixel Perfect X-Star?? its $30 more.... im nervous about ordering one and it being dead


I would personally get the ultimate pixel one.


----------



## darthdirty

I would personally get the ultimate pixel one.[/quote]

do u have a link for that??


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Wonder if this will slowly kill the board, if it's above what it can handle?
> 
> It seems like here have been quite some reports of monitors that broke after about a year.
> 
> I hope 90Hz will be safe for 24/7 usage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: The cable that came with the monitor and the very short high quality one i bought exhibit the exact same behaviour @ 100Hz.
> Does that mean that high quality cables are not that important <100Hz?


I don't see the point of running more than 60Hz for desktop usage. That will be where you spend most of your time and I don't see the point in putting unnecessary strain on the monitor when it's not needed.

The build quality on these is awful and most failures from what I've seen are people that have pushed it higher than 96Hz and those that have disassembled it for whatever reason.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> I don't see the point of running more than 60Hz for desktop usage. That will be where you spend most of your time and I don't see the point in putting unnecessary strain on the monitor when it's not needed.
> 
> The build quality on these is awful and most failures from what I've seen are people that have pushed it higher than 96Hz and those that have disassembled it for whatever reason.


Hows yours? Mine actually doesn't have that bad of build quality. No worse than any other monitor I have owned to be honest. I am sure some have gotten bad ones, but I can only speak for myself. Mine does 120hz no problems, has one dead pixel in the very lower right corner, and practically zero light bleed. Also got the glossy one, so I couldn't be happier with mine. Also I can tell when I am at 60 hz from the mouse movement, I just let mine run at 120hz when my pc is on.

Also saying most failures are from those who pushed it higher than 96hz is kind of sketchy at best, as most people can hit 110-120hz fine, so of course most people who's monitors die would fall in this category as well. To be honest from as many people who own these, the failure rate seems no worse than any other piece of tech on this forum.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Hows yours? Mine actually doesn't have that bad of build quality. No worse than any other monitor I have owned to be honest. I am sure some have gotten bad ones, but I can only speak for myself. Mine does 120hz no problems, has one dead pixel in the very lower right corner, and practically zero light bleed. Also got the glossy one, so I couldn't be happier with mine. Also I can tell when I am at 60 hz from the mouse movement, I just let mine run at 120hz when my pc is on.
> 
> Also saying most failures are from those who pushed it higher than 96hz is kind of sketchy at best, as most people can hit 110-120hz fine, so of course most people who's monitors die would fall in this category as well. To be honest from as many people who own these, the failure rate seems no worse than any other piece of tech on this forum.


I agree, it just feels more responsive compared to 60hz. Scrolling is much smoother and I can read text better while scrolling.

For how long did you have your monitor, was it running @ 120hz from the time you got it?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> I agree, it just feels more responsive compared to 60hz. Scrolling is much smoother and I can read text better while scrolling.
> 
> For how long did you have your monitor, was it running @ 120hz from the time you got it?


Bought it in November of 2013 and it has been running at 120hz since then.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Bought it in November of 2013 and it has been running at 120hz since then.


Hmm okay, so less than a year old %) I wonder if there are many people who ran this for 2+ years.

Hope it will keep running well for you!


----------



## dougian

Guys, after two months of having my qnix i finally tried overclocking.
I can't reach 120Hz, but i'm pretty stable at 112Hz.
I got two important questions:
1) What is the prefered refresh rate if 120Hz is not possible? Is it 96Hz?

2) Is it possible to overclock the display in OSX too? So far i've searched but i've found no answers about it

Please help a fellow noob


----------



## Select One

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougian*
> 
> Guys, after two months of having my qnix i finally tried overclocking.
> I can't reach 120Hz, but i'm pretty stable at 112Hz.
> I got two important questions:
> 1) What is the prefered refresh rate if 120Hz is not possible? Is it 96Hz?
> 
> 2) Is it possible to overclock the display in OSX too? So far i've searched but i've found no answers about it
> 
> Please help a fellow noob


what version do you have?


----------



## dougian

I guess you mean OSX version?

Running 10.9.4 Mavericks, just updated.


----------



## Sempre

Can a couple of you Qnix owners look at this back-light color and tell me what color you see.
It says red back-light but it appears to be a mix of orange/yellow to me: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=426

I just want to be sure that its an error from their end rather than my color profile.


----------



## Select One

Hello Korean monitor owners,

I just want to ask if these two are just the same? On the Spec it says 6ms and the other one says 8ms

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b [$309.99]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc [$327.90]

btw do you guys use this monitor for fast phase games like CsGo, bf4, titanfall? 6-8ms affect your gameplay?
Thanks guys


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Hows yours? Mine actually doesn't have that bad of build quality. No worse than any other monitor I have owned to be honest. I am sure some have gotten bad ones, but I can only speak for myself. Mine does 120hz no problems, has one dead pixel in the very lower right corner, and practically zero light bleed. Also got the glossy one, so I couldn't be happier with mine. Also I can tell when I am at 60 hz from the mouse movement, I just let mine run at 120hz when my pc is on.
> 
> Also saying most failures are from those who pushed it higher than 96hz is kind of sketchy at best, as most people can hit 110-120hz fine, so of course most people who's monitors die would fall in this category as well. To be honest from as many people who own these, the failure rate seems no worse than any other piece of tech on this forum.


It's fine. I haven't clocked it past 72Hz because with SLI 780's I don't exceed that min the games I play. Most of the time it's set at 60Hz. I don't need my browsing experience improved at the expense of potential shortened life. Pixel perfect and almost no back light bleed, but it's plain to see how shoddily these are made. You get what you pay for. I've only had this one for a month. If it doesn't last at least 3 years I'm going to be pretty dissapointed.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> I don't need my browsing experience improved at the expense of potential shortened life


I have gotten so used to browsing and doing other stuff on the desktop at 96Hz. 60Hz feels really laggy now even when i'm not gaming.

The trick is not to exceed the pixel clock limit of 450MHz.
96Hz,110Hz, and even 120Hz doesn't mean anything by itself if you don't look at what pixel clock it corresponds to on your monitor.

There hasn't been a study with a large sample size to confirm nor deny that overclocking these monitors causes them to fail or degrade.

By the way I'm not saying it's a proven fact if you keep the pixel clock lower than 450MHz that nothing will go wrong. It is just safer for me to stick to the PCB specs and not go past the limit.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> There hasn't been a study with a large sample size to confirm nor deny that overclocking these monitors causes them to fail or degrade.
> 
> By the way I'm not saying it's a proven fact if you keep the pixel clock lower than 450MHz that nothing will go wrong. It is just safer for me to stick to the PCB specs and not go past the limit.


450MHz is the limit of the panel, right? But who knows what the limit of the other parts is!?
And these are A- panels, so the build quality might be inferior to what the spec says it can handle.

The 450MHz is still pretty high compared to what it is at 60Hz. I'm a bit torn -- like the fast Desktop, but would really suck if the monitor dies after a year.

In the end, like you said, there's no guarantee that nothing will go wrong, and everyone has to decide for themselves if it's worth the risk.


----------



## the9quad

Well just get a 3 year square trade warranty, problem solved.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> 450MHz is the limit of the panel, right? But who knows what the limit of the other parts is!?
> And these are A- panels, so the build quality might be inferior to what the spec says it can handle.
> 
> The 450MHz is still pretty high compared to what it is at 60Hz. I'm a bit torn -- like the fast Desktop, but would really suck if the monitor dies after a year.
> 
> In the end, like you said, there's no guarantee that nothing will go wrong, and everyone has to decide for themselves if it's worth the risk.


You've got a point there. The PCB is not the only part that may fail.
I believe that the A- term is confined within the Panel itself for matters like stuck pixels or back-blight bleeding, not the overclocking capability.

So my guess is Apple and other companies reject them based on the quality of the panel, not whether it overclocks to 120Hz or not.
Also, the alleged OCing harm, IF it occurs, it will affect the PCB and other electrical components in my opinion. Not the PLS panel itself.
This is why i don't think its correct to infer that these monitors may fail from OCing because they're A- panels.

I have been running my Qnix @96Hz (sometimes 72Hz & 110Hz) since June 2013 and still have no issues.

I am not an expert on monitors and electronics. I just share what read around here about these monitors and from personal experience. Maybe the experts Yasa,Tomcat and Toasty could review my statements









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Well just get a 3 year square trade warranty, problem solved.


Does this apply to people not in the U.S?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Does this apply to people not in the U.S?


I think they have a uk version, but not sure about other areas of the world.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Well just get a 3 year square trade warranty, problem solved.


I shouldn't have to buy an warranty that extends beyond one year to begin with. That just reinforces my build quality point. I paid for pixel perfect and 40 in import fees as it is. Total came to 400CAD for a monitor that's only worth 300.


----------



## Select One

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I think they have a uk version, but not sure about other areas of the world.


I just want to ask if these two are just the same? On the Spec it says 6ms and the other one says 8ms

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b [$309.99]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc [$327.90]

btw do you guys use this monitor for fast phase games like CsGo, bf4, titanfall? 6-8ms affect your gameplay?
Thanks


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Select One*
> 
> I just want to ask if these two are just the same? On the Spec it says 6ms and the other one says 8ms
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b [$309.99]
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc [$327.90]
> 
> btw do you guys use this monitor for fast phase games like CsGo, bf4, titanfall? 6-8ms affect your gameplay?
> Thanks


One also claims to be the SE model and the other not the SE model, lol... I'd get the cheaper one myself.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> I shouldn't have to buy an warranty that extends beyond one year to begin with. That just reinforces my build quality point. I paid for pixel perfect and 40 in import fees as it is. Total came to 400CAD for a monitor that's only worth 300.


Well then, go take a look at any other thread in this whole site about any other pc component. They all have failures. Every single one of them. AMD cards break. Nvidia Cards Break. Motherboards from every manufacturer break, etc... so not sure what your point is. The extra warranty is like $35 for 3 years, buy it or not, that is your choice.

Also you should have read here and done your home work, pixel perfect is a scam.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Can a couple of you Qnix owners look at this back-light color and tell me what color you see.
> It says red back-light but it appears to be a mix of orange/yellow to me: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=426
> 
> I just want to be sure that its an error from their end rather than my color profile.


Anyone?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Anyone?


doesn't look red to me.


----------



## Kokin

There have been several cases of Qnix units going bad overtime. Mine died about a month ago and strangely 2 or 3 people also had theirs fail at the same time. Honestly, I think the power adapters are the cause of these deaths and when you have unclean/faulty power being delivered to your PCB, it will gradually die.

Things to note:
-I bought my Qnix and it was running 120Hz with my 7950 (October 2013)
-Switched to R9 290 and could only achieve 110Hz (April 2014)
-Monitor dies shortly after a blackout (August 2014)

-The power adapter was always super hot and _never lit up_ (green light was dead)
-Bought a new adapter AFTER the monitor died, but was too late to fix the Qnix
-PCB was probably weakened prior to the blackout since it would blink on/off whenever the background was mostly white

Despite my monitor dying in less than a year, it has been *the best I've ever used and will definitely buy again* once I save up some money.


----------



## freezer2k

So you let it running @ 120Hz on the Desktop?

"it would blink on/off whenever the background was mostly white", what do you mean by that?

--edit

my power supply doesn't get hot at all (30C max i would say) and green light is shining


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> So you let it running @ 120Hz on the Desktop?
> 
> "it would blink on/off whenever the background was mostly white", what do you mean by that?
> 
> --edit
> 
> my power supply doesn't get hot at all (30C max i would say) and green light is shining


Yeah it was run at either 120Hz or 110Hz during desktop.

Whenever my background was white or I had a pdf/doc file up for longer than 5 minutes, my panel would turn on and off (try blinking your eyes quickly). This didn't happen too often and I thought it was mostly due to a driver conflict (14.4 ~ 14.7 had some issues with the AMD patcher before). Once the updated AMD patcher and CRU came out, this issue rarely happened again so I thought it was fixed.

My power adapter would get very hot to the touch. Sometimes it would get too hot to touch, which would mean it was reaching at least 40C+.


----------



## freezer2k

I see,

I just put my Qnix into my power monitor and it draws only about 19W from the wall plug!

41W at max. brightness.
This is at 90Hz; at 60Hz this drops about 2W.

Given that the power supply can output up to 60W DC power (probably equates to 66W from the wall plug at 90% efficiency) there should be more than enough headroom.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

I wonder if these power adapters can be replaced with higher quality trusted brands or if I can build a better one myself? Do they appear proprietary? Or is the connection standard?


----------



## brun019822

Hi guys new here and im very interested on picking up a xstar, few questions, my living room is pretty bright should I get a matte display? also can someone point me to a ebay reseller where I can get the ones that can be overclocked? im in the US by the way. thanks


----------



## Seel

Welp, I just bit the bullet and ordered one from accessorieswhole. Non pixel perfect version, going to play that lottery.

I've been lurking in this thread for a while now, and I've also been looking for alternatives. But nothing really caught my eye.
Gaming monitors are all 1080p except the overpriced ROG swift.
I also considered 4k, but the affordable ones are all TN panels and there's other issues as well. Not to mention, I only have a single gtx 770.

So yeah, hopefully I made the right choice.


----------



## mikeaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I wonder if these power adapters can be replaced with higher quality trusted brands or if I can build a better one myself? Do they appear proprietary? Or is the connection standard?


I'm not familiar with the adapters these use, but most monitors with external bricks just use two-terminal 12V DC output switched-mode power supplies. Anything with 12V output and a high enough current rating that fits should work, generally. You could solder on the right connector if necessary.

It'd be difficult to design one yourself from scratch, especially without lab-grade test gear. I guess there are intermediate packaged designs you could beef up the output of. Well, you could go with a linear supply, which would be reasonable to design but also very hot and inefficient.

There should be a lot of higher-quality alternatives from the likes of Delta, Hipro, Mean Well, Elpac, etc.

I could be very wrong, though. What's the stock adapter look like (i.e. what's the label say)? That said, I wouldn't really worry about the quality myself unless the thing died.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Hi guys, I'll ask over here again, is 2 x Titans sufficient for running three of these in surround at 120Hz? Assuming they get that high of course.

Or are the connectors not sufficient?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Hi guys, I'll ask over here again, is 2 x Titans sufficient for running three of these in surround at 120Hz? Assuming they get that high of course.
> 
> Or are the connectors not sufficient?


Just a guess but yeah 2 titans should be plenty.

Besides, just get the monitors and if turns out it isn't enough then invest in more GPU power if you want.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seel*
> 
> Welp, I just bit the bullet and ordered one from accessorieswhole. Non pixel perfect version, going to play that lottery.
> 
> I've been lurking in this thread for a while now, and I've also been looking for alternatives. But nothing really caught my eye.
> Gaming monitors are all 1080p except the overpriced ROG swift.
> I also considered 4k, but the affordable ones are all TN panels and there's other issues as well. Not to mention, I only have a single gtx 770.
> 
> So yeah, hopefully I made the right choice.


You did.

You got the same deal as me and it was one the best purchases of my PC career... this and an SSD.

I'll spoil it so it won't surprise you.
You will probably have 1-2 dead pixels.
You won't notice them just like I never notice mine.
I couldn't even tell you I had dead pixels if I didn't search with a magnifying glass on an all white screen.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Can a couple of you Qnix owners look at this back-light color and tell me what color you see.
> It says red back-light but it appears to be a mix of orange/yellow to me: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=426
> 
> I just want to be sure that its an error from their end rather than my color profile.


It definitely has an Orange hue to it for me, my reds are much deeper/brighter









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I have gotten so used to browsing and doing other stuff on the desktop at 96Hz. 60Hz feels really laggy now even when i'm not gaming.
> 
> The trick is not to exceed the pixel clock limit of 450MHz.
> 96Hz,110Hz, and even 120Hz doesn't mean anything by itself if you don't look at what pixel clock it corresponds to on your monitor.
> 
> There hasn't been a study with a large sample size to confirm nor deny that overclocking these monitors causes them to fail or degrade.
> 
> By the way I'm not saying it's a proven fact if you keep the pixel clock lower than 450MHz that nothing will go wrong. It is just safer for me to stick to the PCB specs and not go past the limit.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> You've got a point there. The PCB is not the only part that may fail.
> I believe that the A- term is confined within the Panel itself for matters like stuck pixels or back-blight bleeding, not the overclocking capability.
> 
> *So my guess is Apple and other companies reject them based on the quality of the panel, not whether it overclocks to 120Hz or not.
> Also, the alleged OCing harm, IF it occurs, it will affect the PCB and other electrical components in my opinion. Not the PLS panel itself.
> *This is why i don't think its correct to infer that these monitors may fail from OCing because they're A- panels.
> 
> I have been running my Qnix @96Hz (sometimes 72Hz & 110Hz) since June 2013 and still have no issues.
> 
> I am not an expert on monitors and electronics. I just share what read around here about these monitors and from personal experience. Maybe the experts Yasa,Tomcat and Toasty could review my statements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this apply to people not in the U.S?
Click to expand...

I'm not an expert either, But I concur with your advise/analysis









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Select One*
> 
> I just want to ask if these two are just the same? On the Spec it says 6ms and the other one says 8ms
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b [$309.99]
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matt-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/221203079356?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3380bb20bc [$327.90]
> 
> btw do you guys use this monitor for fast phase games like CsGo, bf4, titanfall? 6-8ms affect your gameplay?
> Thanks


The "SE" models = "Second Edition", they started coming out 1st qtr this year and supposedly have a less stringent QC.
This would only relate to the panels pixel quality and would not effect the PCB or OC ability whatsoever.
AND to be honest I don't think, or have seen that it has any determination of a pixel perfect lottery draw. Which also coinsides with many of us not seeing any noticeable benefit in paying a premium for a "Pixel Perfect". The Korean suppliers are all over the place on their pixel guarantees so unless you get it in writing pre-purchase with exactly what you expect, this includes Return Shipping (appx $150 US) most of them won't pay it unless you can make a strong case! I don't see the value in "Pixel Perfect". I'd take that difference and put it toward a square trade warranty


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I wonder if these power adapters can be replaced with higher quality trusted brands or if I can build a better one myself? Do they appear proprietary? Or is the connection standard?


a ton of people have used better power bricks,I believe if you search Lawson67 had a great suggestion for a good replacement.

I believe this is the one most have gotten:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeaj*
> 
> I'm not familiar with the adapters these use, but most monitors with external bricks just use two-terminal 12V DC output switched-mode power supplies. Anything with 12V output and a high enough current rating that fits should work, generally. You could solder on the right connector if necessary.
> 
> It'd be difficult to design one yourself from scratch, especially without lab-grade test gear. I guess there are intermediate packaged designs you could beef up the output of. Well, you could go with a linear supply, which would be reasonable to design but also very hot and inefficient.
> 
> There should be a lot of higher-quality alternatives from the likes of Delta, Hipro, Mean Well, Elpac, etc.
> 
> I could be very wrong, though. What's the stock adapter look like (i.e. what's the label say)? That said, I wouldn't really worry about the quality myself unless the thing died.


I apologize, I didnt mean to say that I would build one from absolute scratch, lol, although I have done that before. Even though I have over 30 years of electronics work and plenty of lab grade equipment here at my disposal (I'm a retired QA dept lab tech for Intel). I have the materials and plenty of old retired computer power supplies, all of very high quality. Even the cheapest of computer grade power supplies have a better design then these $5 korean fire bricks, so if its just a standard 12v design supplying 60 watts or so, that can be much improved upon using a old enthusiast grade power supply, with a little soldering work that is. I have dozens of them lying around in my computer workshop... Thinking of using an old Dell 250 watt PSU, and converting it into a high quality efficient PSU for the monitor. If its even needed.


----------



## freezer2k

How about powering it from the 12V that come from the ATX power supply?

The BeQuiet! in my PC is probably better quality.

This way the monitor goes also off completely once you shut down or suspend your PC, and you save a power plug.


----------



## kaspar737

So if the monitor has both HDMI and Dual-Link DVI ports, you can't overclock it at all, even not when using DVI?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> a ton of people have used better power bricks,I believe if you search Lawson67 had a great suggestion for a good replacement.
> 
> I believe this is the one most have gotten:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa


Yeah, that is a very good idea as well. I guess if it isn't producing a lot of heat, then maybe it is OK. I'd still want to put a better supply on it, if you have the means. I don't throw anything away that can be used down the road, so I have literally hundreds of bricks and dozens of psu's in storage here, not to mention dozens of old guitar amps, automotive audio amps, old battery backup units (from the 80 and 90's), etc etc... I never know when I can use it for something.

However, with that said, not sure I will keep the power brick from this monitor... hahaha


----------



## vato3001

ok and which one is the best power brick for the qnix?
Can you show me some examples pls? Thx


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vato3001*
> 
> ok and which one is the best power brick for the qnix?
> Can you show me some examples pls? Thx


literally one post above yours is a link to an example of a power brick a lot of qnix owners in this thread have purchased as a replacement................................


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> How about powering it from the 12V that come from the ATX power supply?
> 
> The BeQuiet! in my PC is probably better quality.
> 
> This way the monitor goes also off completely once you shut down or suspend your PC, and you save a power plug.


I just attached the monitor to a 4-Pin Molex connection of my ATX power supply.

Seems to work fine =)


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> a ton of people have used better power bricks,I believe if you search Lawson67 had a great suggestion for a good replacement.
> 
> I believe this is the one most have gotten:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa


Yeah that's the one that was recommended and the one I purchased. I will use it for when I get another Qnix.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Hi guys, I'll ask over here again, is 2 x Titans sufficient for running three of these in surround at 120Hz? Assuming they get that high of course.
> 
> Or are the connectors not sufficient?


If you can't maintain 120 as a min fps you're going to experience stuttering, tearing and all kinds of fun stuff.

I have SLI 780's and unless a turn down the settings dramatically I can't maintain 120 on a single monitor at 1440p.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> If you can't maintain 120 as a min fps you're going to experience stuttering, tearing and all kinds of fun stuff.
> 
> I have SLI 780's and unless a turn down the settings dramatically I can't maintain 120 on a single monitor at 1440p.


What do you mean by dramatically? And in what games? I rarely dip to 72FPS to begin with, and I usually max out almost all settings except AA which is usually kept off. I use 110Hz and I have almost no problem hitting that. I have 2x7970.


----------



## the9quad

Even in games I don't hit 120fps minimums in, I don't experience "stuttering, tearing and all kinds of fun stuff". In fact, tearing with a monitor at 120hz is way less noticeable then tearing on one at 60hz. Doing 120 fps minimum is not a requirement to enjoy a 120hz refresh rate at all. There has already been topics on this, and why screen tearing on 120/144hz monitors is less noticeable and also the benefits of high refresh rate monitors even when your min fps doesn't match the refresh rate. In short, higher refresh rates either remove the tears sooner, or shows fewer tears per refresh.


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What do you mean by dramatically? And in what games? I rarely dip to 72FPS to begin with, and I usually max out almost all settings except AA which is usually kept off. I use 110Hz and I have almost no problem hitting that. I have 2x7970.


you should be asking him what games he intends on playing. I play pretty much any RPG, FPS or action game that's released and worth the time. Right now I'm playing Black Flag and can barely maintain 60fps with everything on highest and 4x's msaa. 1440p is no where near a high enough resolution to go without AA. And he's going to be trying to drive 3 of these monitors with cards that aren't that much more powerful than 780's. I just don't see it happening without serious compromises.


----------



## arealMESSiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaspar737*
> 
> So if the monitor has both HDMI and Dual-Link DVI ports, you can't overclock it at all, even not when using DVI?


If you're referring to the multi-input version, like this one, from what I've read, people have found that overclocking is possible, but it results in dropped frames. In other words, even though you can set it to run at 96Hz or 120Hz fine, it still won't be outputting 96 or 120 FPS respectively.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaspar737*
> 
> So if the monitor has both HDMI and Dual-Link DVI ports, you can't overclock it at all, even not when using DVI?


A few people have overclocked it without dropping frames, although it's very low (65~70Hz). Expect most of them to not go past 60Hz.

I wouldn't bother getting the True10 version unless you absolutely need that HDMI connection. Stick to the single DL-DVI version if you want overclocking.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Source*
> 
> If you can't maintain 120 as a min fps you're going to experience stuttering, tearing and all kinds of fun stuff.
> 
> I have SLI 780's and unless a turn down the settings dramatically I can't maintain 120 on a single monitor at 1440p.


Yeah that's not a problem really.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Just a guess but yeah 2 titans should be plenty.
> 
> Besides, just get the monitors and if turns out it isn't enough then invest in more GPU power if you want.


I like your thinking. I had just heard these things cannot run on HDMI, for example, and only run on a dual link DVI, but I was unsure whether it was JUST DVI-D, or whether they can function on DVI-I as well, the Titans have:

1 x Dual DVI-D
1 x Dual DVI-I
1 x HDMI
1 x DisplayPort

Double that of course for SLI titans.


----------



## hammelgammler

Couldn't it be that the power supply dies of other grid in other countries such as america?

120V with a frequency of 60Hz is the standard there as i know, and in germany it's 230V with 50Hz, maybe the power supplies can't handle that?

I live in germany and my stock PSU doesn't even get handwarm, even at 110Hz after a few hours of using.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Couldn't it be that the power supply dies of other grid in other countries such as america?
> 
> 120V with a frequency of 60Hz is the standard there as i know, and in germany it's 230V with 50Hz, maybe the power supplies can't handle that?
> 
> I live in germany and my stock PSU doesn't even get handwarm, even at 110Hz after a few hours of using.


The PSU (at leas the model that was shipped with mine) is rated for an input voltage of 100-240V and 50/60Hz; so both should be fine.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Can a couple of you Qnix owners look at this back-light color and tell me what color you see.
> It says red back-light but it appears to be a mix of orange/yellow to me: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=426
> 
> I just want to be sure that its an error from their end rather than my color profile.


It looks orange to me on all three of my Qnix monitors.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Yeah that's not a problem really.
> I like your thinking. I had just heard these things cannot run on HDMI, for example, and only run on a dual link DVI, but I was unsure whether it was JUST DVI-D, or whether they can function on DVI-I as well, the Titans have:
> 
> 1 x Dual DVI-D
> 1 x Dual DVI-I
> 1 x HDMI
> 1 x DisplayPort
> 
> Double that of course for SLI titans.


Shouldn't be an issue. I've run three on two 780Ti's with no problem. As long as it is dual DVI, the -D or -I doesn't matter.


----------



## QuickFix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Shouldn't be an issue. I've run three on two 780Ti's with no problem. As long as it is dual DVI, the -D or -I doesn't matter.


I'm running 3 QX2710's at 7680x1440 using 2 EVGA GTX670 FTW+ 4GB from the dual link ports also with no problems. I overclock them about 15% and am able to run games with fairly high settings.

Benchmark of Metro LL Redux with 3 passes of scene 1 using these settings:

Res: 7680x1440
Quality: High
SSAA: Off
Texture Filtering: AF 4x
Motion Blur: Off
Tesselatilon: Normal
VSync: Off
Adnvanced PhysX: On

Average Framerate: 33.00
Max. Framerate: 124.36
Min. Framerate: 13.24

The settings above are the ones I use in game. Play is very smooth with no tearing or hesitation.


----------



## The Source

That also means that you are completely dependent on SLI working, and working well, to be even able to play. Too many games where SLI either isn't supported at all or doesn't work well. And while 30fps might be playable in a small number of games, it makes owning and overclocking a monitor above 60Hz pointless.


----------



## spiderxjz82

It's more that these seem to be some of the cheaper 1440s than about the refresh rate for me...

If the SLI titans will run them, fantastic! I only play about 5 different games, of which the main reason I want these three is for the new Warlords of Draenor expansion to be honest!


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> *It's more that these seem to be some of the cheaper 1440s* than about the refresh rate for me...
> 
> If the SLI titans will run them, fantastic! I only play about 5 different games, of which the main reason I want these three is for the new Warlords of Draenor expansion to be honest!


That was the draw for me as well. Now we are seeing domestically sold panels for around the same money, granted not all of them overclock. You made a point about overclocking them which is why I assumed that was one of the main reasons for wanting these.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Just purchased this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181501247704?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'll let you guys know how it turns out when I have it.

As for the power brick - is it really recommended to get better one - if so why?
If so - I saw a USA link - anyone provide me with a UK link?


----------



## the9quad

even if you are only pushing 30fps, you still can overclock them and get less tearing than at 60hz. Not sure I see the point of not overclocking them.


----------



## Nick0602

EDIT: I'm an idiot, just found out the info I needed in the OP even if I read it several times >_> Sorry.


----------



## mrgamer81

hi all, will this one overclock http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649 and how do they overclock with amd gpu. I have 290x crossfire


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgamer81*
> 
> hi all, will this one overclock http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649 and how do they overclock with amd gpu. I have 290x crossfire


Yes.

-The models with Display Port input do not overclock because they have a scaler in them that will up-scale and down-scale resolutions that aren't 1440p.

-The models with only Dual Link DVI (the one you linked) do not have a scaler that prevents overclocking.
You can hook devices that don't output at 1440p (like the Xbox 360) but it will display a small screen letterboxed in because it has no scaler to upscale the 1080p input signal to 1440p.
It will be centered. I just suck at image editing lol.


As for overclocking, here is a guide:
(Guide) http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/31526-overclocking-your-monitor-refresh-rate-amd-gpus/
(Official App) http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## mrgamer81

Thanks man


----------



## ref

Just ordered the pixel perfect matte QNIX from AccessoriesWhole.

Can't wait to see what all the fuss is about.

Going to be driving it with 2 980's in the coming weeks


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ref*
> 
> Just ordered the pixel perfect matte QNIX from AccessoriesWhole.
> 
> Can't wait to see what all the fuss is about.
> 
> Going to be *driving it with 2 980's* in the coming weeks


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> I woke up this morning and something was making a popping sound, almost like a clock. Pop, pop, pop.. I thought it was a sound from outside or something.. I turned on my PC, it had no picture on the monitor and the pop sound got louder.. I don't know what the popping sound is but it seems like it is coming from the speakers (I've never even tried using them). Every 30 seconds or so the monitor would flicker on for about a half-second and then go black again. The power button does not turn off the monitor or the popping sound, the only way to make the sound stop is to pull the plug.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninecats*
> 
> it might be a blown capacitor.


Hmm.. Thanks for your response. If it is, I guess that would be good news? It seems easy enough to replace(according to the youtube vids I saw).

I'm looking at the new ASUS Swift monitor but would kinda like to hold out for more competition in the 1440p-144hz-gsync market. The Swift has the TN panel and a lot of people say colors dont really compare to the IPS panels.. That's whats making me want to hold off for a little longer.

Has anyone that owns an X-star or Qnix been able to compare them side by side with an Asus Swift? What are your thoughts? Obviously, I want the Swift for its gaming power but this monitor will also be a daily driver for work. The vibrant colors and overall shininess on my X-star were a beautiful thing while having to stare at stuff for work all day.

Just wanted to get some more ideas in my head from you guys.









Thanks for reading and for any advice you can give.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Even in games I don't hit 120fps minimums in, I don't experience "stuttering, tearing and all kinds of fun stuff". In fact, tearing with a monitor at 120hz is way less noticeable then tearing on one at 60hz. Doing 120 fps minimum is not a requirement to enjoy a 120hz refresh rate at all. There has already been topics on this, and why screen tearing on 120/144hz monitors is less noticeable and also the benefits of high refresh rate monitors even when your min fps doesn't match the refresh rate. In short, higher refresh rates either remove the tears sooner, or shows fewer tears per refresh.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> even if you are only pushing 30fps, you still can overclock them and get less tearing than at 60hz. Not sure I see the point of not overclocking them.
Click to expand...

THIS ^^^ Well said, and is overlooked time after time! +R








This phenomenon is so true and relevant, it has caused me to hold off on an SLI setup again until Maxwell comes out or I get caught up on my backlog of gaming titles. The responsiveness for me, still isn't quite on the level of the old competitive [email protected] days ... But [email protected] is miles ahead of anything I have experienced since @60Hz with any kind of setup even when my FPS isn't syncing with the overclock! ... it has truly been a game changer to have such a vivid picture with almost the same responsiveness as the good ol' days of CRT









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaspar737*
> 
> So if the monitor has both HDMI and Dual-Link DVI ports, you can't overclock it at all, even not when using DVI?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> A few people have overclocked it without dropping frames, although it's very low (65~70Hz). Expect most of them to not go past 60Hz.
> 
> I wouldn't bother getting the True10 version unless you absolutely need that HDMI connection. Stick to the single DL-DVI version if you want overclocking.
Click to expand...

Actually we have a couple of confirmations of 85Hz for the multi (HDMI) model, but that still will only happen when connected via Dual DVI. And I agree with Kokin ... don't bother with the True10 models unless you absolutely need the other connections. I'll add a few more drawbacks like input lag and AH-VA inferiority ... read more *HERE* ... make sure to see the Updates and Links









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Shouldn't be an issue. I've run three on two 780Ti's with no problem. As long as it is dual DVI, the -D or -I doesn't matter.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *QuickFix*
> 
> I'm running 3 QX2710's at 7680x1440 using 2 EVGA GTX670 FTW+ 4GB from the dual link ports also with no problems. I overclock them about 15% and am able to run games with fairly high settings.
> 
> Benchmark of Metro LL Redux with 3 passes of scene 1 using these settings:
> 
> Res: 7680x1440
> Quality: High
> SSAA: Off
> Texture Filtering: AF 4x
> Motion Blur: Off
> Tesselatilon: Normal
> VSync: Off
> Adnvanced PhysX: On
> 
> Average Framerate: 33.00
> Max. Framerate: 124.36
> Min. Framerate: 13.24
> 
> The settings above are the ones I use in game. Play is very smooth with no tearing or hesitation.
Click to expand...

Good info confirmation from actual users ... BUT it would also be nice if you commented on how high of a "stable" overclock you achieved with all 3 monitors in surround / with which apps/Games and your overall impression relative to 60Hz?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

If money is no object I would go with the Swift, myself. However, for middle class or us poorer users who want the best screen I think this Qnix is the best option. With a huge TV and a Dell UltraSharp also connected, if my Qnix goes bad (I have not got it yet), I at least have something to fall back on. I'd like to see someone start manufacturing a 3rd party PCB for it, something not as expensive as the Overlord board. That way we can have a backup board put into storage, lol. Like I do with everything else....

One question I have of you guys who have this monitor is the fact that you can select other resolutions. If this has no scaler, how is it scaling up lower resolutions? I can't even get my $2500 120hz TV to do that, without using its OSD and stretching the picture out. If the OS and the video card drivers are giving you the option to select 1920x1080, or other lower resolutions, what is causing that lower resolution to fill the entire 27" screen? That job usually goes to the monitors built in scaler, which is absent from the single DVI-D model. Can someone please explain that for me?


----------



## freezer2k

Don't buy a new PSU, just connect the Qnix to your ATX power supply!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Don't buy a new PSU, just connect the Qnix to your ATX power supply!


LOL, absolutely epic. Exactly the kind of thing I was thinking of doing myself (But with an unused PSU). My PSU is a $500 beast and I'm not using 1/3rd of its rated power, so this may be a perfect idea for someone like myself. Thank you


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> If money is no object I would go with the Swift, myself. However, for middle class or us poorer users who want the best screen I think this Qnix is the best option. With a huge TV and a Dell UltraSharp also connected, if my Qnix goes bad (I have not got it yet), I at least have something to fall back on. I'd like to see someone start manufacturing a 3rd party PCB for it, something not as expensive as the Overlord board. That way we can have a backup board put into storage, lol. Like I do with everything else....
> 
> One question I have of you guys who have this monitor is the fact that you can select other resolutions. If this has no scaler, how is it scaling up lower resolutions? I can't even get my $2500 120hz TV to do that, without using its OSD and stretching the picture out. If the OS and the video card drivers are giving you the option to select 1920x1080, or other lower resolutions, what is causing that lower resolution to fill the entire 27" screen? That job usually goes to the monitors built in scaler, which is absent from the single DVI-D model. Can someone please explain that for me?


Well some people (particulary AMD users) see no need to spend $800 on a TN panel, when they are perfectly happy with the overclockable Korean IPS/PLS panels. If I had Nvidia cards I might look into the swift, but G-sync would be the only reason. So no, just because we bought a qnix doesnt automatically makes us poor homeless people. We may just prefer this type of panel with superior viewing angles/colors.

To answer your question video cards do the scaling.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> If money is no object I would go with the Swift, myself. However, for middle class or us poorer users who want the best screen I think this Qnix is the best option.


If money was no object I'd buy 3 Qnix monitors for nearly the amount of one Rog Swift, and four 290x/780Ti to power them









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> doesn't look red to me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> It definitely has an Orange hue to it for me, my reds are much deeper/brighter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not an expert either, But I concur with your advise/analysis


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> It looks orange to me on all three of my Qnix monitors.


Thanks







All +reps


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> even if you are only pushing 30fps, you still can overclock them and get less tearing than at 60hz. Not sure I see the point of not overclocking them.


Isn't that kind of like buying a Ferrari with only 1st gear working? Hey if it actually helps than sure, why not. I'm no pro online gamer so nitpicking response time to that extent gets me nowhere.


----------



## mrgamer81

I got tired of getting 4 rog swift in a row with dead pixel, so now i am looking at qnix.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Well some people (particulary AMD users) see no need to spend $800 on a TN panel, when they are perfectly happy with the overclockable Korean IPS/PLS panels. If I had Nvidia cards I might look into the swift, but G-sync would be the only reason. So no, just because we bought a qnix doesnt automatically makes us poor homeless people. We may just prefer this type of panel with superior viewing angles/colors.
> 
> To answer your question video cards do the scaling.


My last monitor was $700, but now that I am retired I fully consider myself poor, not because I do not have money but because I can not foolishly be spending it and MUST go solely by the cost of things, or the wife will, err never mind. This is why I chose to go with a Hexa Core Xeon at $80, as opposed to upgrading to x79 or x99 for substantially more. I did not mean to imply users here were poor, nor is being poor a negative thing. I grew up living on dirt floors so I fully find it offensive if being poor is looked down upon. And why would a homeless person be toting around a computer Monitor? LOL, I never implied that Qnix owners are homeless people. It is the low cost of this PLS panel that caught my eye.

Ok, thanks for the info. Somehow I expected black bars if selecting a lower res....


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgamer81*
> 
> I got tired of getting 4 rog swift in a row with dead pixel, so now i am looking at qnix.


Better get perfect pixel editon then.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> My last monitor was $700, but now that I am retired I fully consider myself poor, not because I do not have money but because I can not foolishly be spending it and MUST go solely by the cost of things, or the wife will, err never mind. This is why I chose to go with a Hexa Core Xeon at $80, as opposed to upgrading to x79 or x99 for substantially more. I did not mean to imply users here were poor, nor is being poor a negative thing. I grew up living on dirt floors so I fully find it offensive if being poor is looked down upon. And why would a homeless person be toting around a computer Monitor? LOL, I never implied that Qnix owners are homeless people. It is the low cost of this PLS panel that caught my eye.
> 
> Ok, thanks for the info. Somehow I expected black bars if selecting a lower res....


No harm done









Its just that even if you're loaded with money, the over-clockable Qnix monitors are a very logical choice. Since there isn't currently other monitors out there that are PLS 1440p which can do 120Hz.


----------



## yasamoka

Today, I decided to sit in a lower chair. I studied a bit then played Dark Souls II on the Qnix. Something I would have never been able to do with a TN panel. Then I hooked up my secondary monitor, which is the ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED, a 1920x1080 60Hz TN monitor, and...just sitting slightly off angle causes the screen to tinge a slight hue of green. I didn't even bother getting the lower chair again. I'm certain I got spoiled by IPS / PLS viewing angles, as have many users in here. That's a huge point to getting these monitors IMO, you can do much more than gaming on them more comfortably than you could on the Swift, or on any TN panel for that matter.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

How do these timings look?

I got my monitor up to 110Hz and got rid of the green flickering through guesswork, but I notice the image in quite a bit darker than it used to be when I had it at 100Hz. I tried using the color program thing in the OP but I couldn't get my head around it, and ICC profiles don't seem to change anything. Can anyone help?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> How do these timings look?
> 
> I got my monitor up to 110Hz and got rid of the green flickering through guesswork, but I notice the image in quite a bit darker than it used to be when I had it at 100Hz. I tried using the color program thing in the OP but I couldn't get my head around it, and ICC profiles don't seem to change anything. Can anyone help?


I can help, I know the dev









Does *this* help?

Guru3D is having some problems uploading the new version. If you have any trouble loading profiles in the OP, grab this new version. Profile loading now works for all profiles that are valid, and I have tried all 30 ICC profiles in the OP and all work flawlessly.

Color Sustainer v1.05 changelog:
-All valid color profiles now work
-Memory leak fixed
-Update system bug fixed (only affects non-public releases such as this one)

Download here.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> If money is no object I would go with the Swift, myself. However, for middle class or us poorer users who want the best screen I think this Qnix is the best option.


Money is a little tight and the Swift would be a stretch, that's why I was curious if anyone was able to compare a Qnix or X-Star to the Swift. I was perfectly happy with my X-Star but since it just died out on me, I was thinking about biting the bullet and getting(what some people say is) the top of the line gaming monitor. But the whole TN panel is putting me off since I have to use it for a daily work horse too. I may end up just buying another X-star or Qnix because of the IPS, but I really wanted to try out the G-Sync feature in the Swift.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Today, I decided to sit in a lower chair. I studied a bit then played Dark Souls II on the Qnix. Something I would have never been able to do with a TN panel. Then I hooked up my secondary monitor, which is the ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED, a 1920x1080 60Hz TN monitor, and...just sitting slightly off angle causes the screen to tinge a slight hue of green. I didn't even bother getting the lower chair again. I'm certain I got spoiled by IPS / PLS viewing angles, as have many users in here. That's a huge point to getting these monitors IMO, you can do much more than gaming on them more comfortably than you could on the Swift, or on any TN panel for that matter.


That's exactly it, I think I'm spoiled by the IPS panel too. Hopefully I can somehow fix my X-star and just wait for a cheaper 1440p, 120hz, g-sync monitor with IPS panel(if that's even possible). I'm on a VH222H (TN panel) now for the time being and the colors just seem bland to me, that's why I'm hesitant to jump on the Swift purchase.


----------



## Gualichu04

Can,t seem to get color sustainer to load the profiles. Just downloaded the newest version. Set the profile for 96hz and one for 60hz. Upon changing different profiles i see no color changes. Do i need to install the profiles through windows also and set them as default?
EDIT: I fixed it seems i had to hit detect again the qx2710 popper up even though it was already listed as generic monitor, Maybe installing new gpu drivers caused that. I installed the driver for the monitor also.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> 
> Money is a little tight and the Swift would be a stretch, that's why I was curious if anyone was able to compare a Qnix or X-Star to the Swift.


Yeah, Id like to see that comparison myself. Currently I am on a 2006 Dell UltraSharp that is running flawlessly, but diabetes is slowly taking my eyesight from me so I want something that is bright, and has excellent colors, better frequency (at least get me off 60hz) like I had with my old CRT, very sharp, and LOT's of space. I want to be able to read easily even when relaxing back into my chair and not have to get closer to the screen. Even with my 24" Dell at 1680x1050 and the Windows zoom level at 125% I still have difficulty reading text. This is why I was asking about the resolution scaling. Its easy enough to zoom Windows, but I never did like how it looked. Strangely enough my Dell UltraSharp actually looks OK at 1680x1050, but its the lowest res I can go down to without losing noticeable PQ. I wonder how this 27" Qnix looks at 1920x1080? Someone told me it is awful, is it true?


----------



## Gualichu04

So, is there any way to get a game like star wars the force unleashed or afterfall insanity to scale to the whole screen on a qnix 2710. I enabled gpu upscaling in the amd CCC and selected scale image to full panel size. but it is still in letterbox at 1920x1200 which is the max resolution of each game


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> THIS ^^^ Well said, and is overlooked time after time! +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This phenomenon is so true and relevant, it has caused me to hold off on an SLI setup again until Maxwell comes out or I get caught up on my backlog of gaming titles. The responsiveness for me, still isn't quite on the level of the old competitive [email protected] days ... But [email protected] is miles ahead of anything I have experienced since @60Hz with any kind of setup even when my FPS isn't syncing with the overclock! ... it has truly been a game changer to have such a vivid picture with almost the same responsiveness as the good ol' days of CRT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually we have a couple of confirmations of 85Hz for the multi (HDMI) model, but that still will only happen when connected via Dual DVI. And I agree with Kokin ... don't bother with the True10 models unless you absolutely need the other connections. I'll add a few more drawbacks like input lag and AH-VA inferiority ... read more *HERE* ... make sure to see the Updates and Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good info confirmation from actual users ... BUT it would also be nice if you commented on how high of a "stable" overclock you achieved with all 3 monitors in surround / with which apps/Games and your overall impression relative to 60Hz?


I run all three of mine at 96hz with no problems. The highest one of mine will go is 110hz, so I decided to cap at 96hz. As far as impressions go, unfortunately, I'm one of those people who don't see a lot of difference between 60 fps and 96fps, so can't help you there.


----------



## 352227

Hi guys,

I have a QNIX QX2710 EVO II Matte - it's currently running at 60Hz - is it worth overclocking? I hear it skips frames if overclocked a certain way?

Cheers


----------



## spiderxjz82

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121256076370?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This is what I should be going for to see if I can get some overclocks out of it right?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have a QNIX QX2710 EVO II Matte - it's currently running at 60Hz - is it worth overclocking? I hear it skips frames if overclocked a certain way?
> 
> Cheers


You have the single-input model or the multi-input model?


----------



## RebelRising

I rounded up all the non-SE, non-multi input models available from accessorieswhole on eBay and it came down to these three:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-2560x1440-PLS-DVI-PC-Monitor-/130989935956?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7f9bcd54

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131100343352?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e86307c38

However, respective prices are $329.99, $364.99, and $354.99. Anyone happen to know what's warranting the differences?


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> You have the single-input model or the multi-input model?


Single - it just has DVI-D....


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Single - it just has DVI-D....


And you didn't know you can overclock without skipping frames? Duuude ... Sign out, download CRU, overclock to 100Hz, profit. Then game. Woohoo.


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> And you didn't know you can overclock without skipping frames? Duuude ... Sign out, download CRU, overclock to 100Hz, profit. Then game. Woohoo.


I did know, only had it a week really!

So you can definietly OC to 100Hz without dropping frames? Have you done this yourself?

Where can I get CRU?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> I did know, only had it a week really!
> 
> So you can definietly OC to 100Hz without dropping frames? Have you done this yourself?
> 
> Where can I get CRU?


I hit 117Hz rock solid stable. 120Hz has artifacts. Didn't try higher. All do not frameskip whatsoever.

http://www.monitortests.com


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I hit 117Hz rock solid stable. 120Hz has artifacts. Didn't try higher. All do not frameskip whatsoever.
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com


Cool, Ive had a look around the last few mins and some people are saying I don't need to do anything mad with patches etc - just use the Nvidia Control Panel

What you think?

I am using a 780ti


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Cool, Ive had a look around the last few mins and some people are saying I don't need to do anything mad with patches etc - just use the Nvidia Control Panel
> 
> What you think?
> 
> I am using a 780ti


You can use just the Nvidia control panel and it should work fine.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelRising*
> 
> I rounded up all the non-SE, non-multi input models available from accessorieswhole on eBay and it came down to these.
> 
> However, respective prices are $329.99, $364.99, and $354.99. Anyone happen to know what's warranting the differences?


They are hoping you buy the 365 dollar listing. But if you do not they will be Ok with it. That is the difference...


----------



## spiderxjz82

I can't see anywhere on the first post what the difference in models are.

I understand the TRUE10 is a no for OC, but what is the SE?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I can help, I know the dev
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does *this* help?
> 
> Guru3D is having some problems uploading the new version. If you have any trouble loading profiles in the OP, grab this new version. Profile loading now works for all profiles that are valid, and I have tried all 30 ICC profiles in the OP and all work flawlessly.
> 
> Color Sustainer v1.05 changelog:
> -All valid color profiles now work
> -Memory leak fixed
> -Update system bug fixed (only affects non-public releases such as this one)
> 
> Download here.


Thanks that helped alot I got it working. It seems to work ok in some games, but I'm noticing specifically source engine games just ignore it, is there anything I can do about this?


----------



## kaspar737

Just wondering: How well does 96Hz refresh rate work with 30Hz (or soon to be 60Hz) Youtube videos? Movies for example are captured at 24Hz and there's judder on 60Hz TV because you can't get 60Hz by multipling 24Hz.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaspar737*
> 
> Just wondering: How well does 96Hz refresh rate work with 30Hz (or soon to be 60Hz) Youtube videos? Movies for example are captured at 24Hz and there's judder on 60Hz TV because you can't get 60Hz by multipling 24Hz.


Make a 90Hz profile and a 96Hz profile.

Leave it 90Hz unless you watch some native 24fps movies.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Thanks that helped alot I got it working. It seems to work ok in some games, but I'm noticing specifically source engine games just ignore it, is there anything I can do about this?


-nogammaramp in launch options in Steam.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

We need more reviews of this monitor, I think I have run out... lol


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> -nogammaramp in launch options in Steam.


Thanks. Guessing its a case by case thing where some games let you use profiles and others dont then?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Thanks. Guessing its a case by case thing where some games let you use profiles and others dont then?


http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=4775334


----------



## carv

Got the new power supply from AccessoriesWhole today since the one that came with my monitor was faulty. Everything is working now and I must say this monitor is awesome.

So is overclocking basically the norm on what you should do if you plan on gaming with this monitor? I'm concerned with the performance of FPS games at 60hz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I have a stand coming in - without screws.
What screws do I need to get for the QNIX for VESA? What's the diameter?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I have a stand coming in - without screws.
> What screws do I need to get for the QNIX for VESA? What's the diameter?


Should be M4 x 10mm or so in length and a thread pitch of 0.7

This is what came with my Dell UltraSharp and VESA wall mount arm.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skilly*
> I woke up this morning and something was making a popping sound, almost like a clock. Pop, pop, pop.. I thought it was a sound from outside or something.. I turned on my PC, it had no picture on the monitor and the pop sound got louder.. I don't know what the popping sound is but it seems like it is coming from the speakers (I've never even tried using them). Every 30 seconds or so the monitor would flicker on for about a half-second and then go black again. The power button does not turn off the monitor or the popping sound, the only way to make the sound stop is to pull the plug.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninecats*
> 
> it might be a blown capacitor.


Hmm.. Thanks for your response. If it is, I guess that would be good news? It seems easy enough to replace(according to the youtube vids I saw).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carv*
> 
> Got the new power supply from AccessoriesWhole today since the one that came with my monitor was faulty. Everything is working now and I must say this monitor is awesome.


That's great news about your power supply.







I just read your post about the blinking green light while plugged into the monitor and solid while just in the wall socket. I just finished taking apart my Xstar hoping to find a blown capacitor or something that's fixable(shot in the dark). While doing that I realized that the power supply was blinking while plugged into the monitor and solid green while just in the wall!. So maybe I can just buy a new power supply?







I would rather keep this x-star than buy a new one or break the bank with a Swift.

OK, it must be the power supply..























I just tried real quick, for the hell of it, an old power adapter from an IBM laptop. The plug fits into the monitor, no problem! The monitor turned on and seems fine, I connected it to my PC and it had a picture!! I quickly unplugged it because I'm not sure if this power adapter has the right specs.

Can anyone tell me if it will safe to use the following power adapter:

Input: 100-240V 1.5A-0.9A
Output: 16V 4.5A

Its also a 2 prong, not a 3 prong wall socket plug. Not sure if that matters.



Something tells me that it will not be the right one, but you never know. If anyone can help me out with some advice, I would very much appreciate it. But this seems like great news!

And if this power supply will not be enough, what would be the best to buy from amazon or ebay from a seller in the USA? I found a few adapters that some of you recommended but they all seem to be from the UK. Thank you!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

No, do not use it, its just too much voltage for 24/7 use. It may work for a few minutes or even a few hours, but for daily use it should kill it pretty quick I would think. You want 12V. You could solder in series a half dozen diodes and drop the voltage to about 12V, but I would just get a new power supply for it on ebay, or try and use a 12V molex from your computers power supply. You should have plenty of power reserve left in your PSU.

EDIT: If you want to buy another power supply, search for a Channel Well Technology model PAA060F. Plenty of them on Amazon.


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> No, do not use it, its just too much voltage for 24/7 use. It may work for a few minutes or even a few hours, but for daily use it should kill it pretty quick I would think. You want 12V. You could solder in series a half dozen diodes and drop the voltage to about 12V, but I would just get a new power supply for it on ebay, or try and use a 12V molex from your computers power supply. You should have plenty of power reserve left in your PSU.
> 
> EDIT: If you want to buy another power supply, search for a Channel Well Technology model PAA060F. Plenty of them on Amazon.


Awesome! That's great news. I'd so much rather save my money and wait for a more affordable 1440p G-Sync monitor. I'm so psyched right now!
















I found this one through the overclock search: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa

But then some people recommend this one, which says its newer tech than the PAA060F version, but I'm not finding any that are sold in the US. And will it really make any noticeable difference?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CWT-CAD060121-PAA060F-12V-5A-60W-Adapter-For-TVs-/320634545906

Thanks again guys! You've been a great help. This is my last question and I'll leave everyone alone.. haha.

EDIT: just noticed you edited your post and said to get the PAA060F, what do you think of the CAD060121 instead?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

I think it is ok to get either one, lol... Power supplies do not have a lot of fancy technology so its not like Scientists or Engineers have discovered something new that makes a power supply much better. However, I think Amazon does have it... In fact, I'm pretty sure its just a new plastic case and the working guts of the supply is probably the same.

http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Supply-CAD060121-PAA060F-Charger/dp/B00AI18VKC


----------



## Mifec

Hey friends just a quick question, if I'm getting a qnix it's better to get the non SE versions as they overclock better and have less dead pixels most of the times, true or not? http://www.ebay.com/itm/130913840957?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 would this be the best option then?


----------



## skilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> No, do not use it, its just too much voltage for 24/7 use. It may work for a few minutes or even a few hours, but for daily use it should kill it pretty quick I would think. You want 12V. You could solder in series a half dozen diodes and drop the voltage to about 12V, but I would just get a new power supply for it on ebay, or try and use a 12V molex from your computers power supply. You should have plenty of power reserve left in your PSU.
> 
> EDIT: If you want to buy another power supply, search for a Channel Well Technology model PAA060F. Plenty of them on Amazon.


Bought the PAA060F.. Hope this will do the trick..







If so, you guys saved me a fortune -- until more g-sync choices are avail..


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mifec*
> 
> Hey friends just a quick question, if I'm getting a qnix it's better to get the non SE versions as they overclock better and have less dead pixels most of the times, true or not? http://www.ebay.com/itm/130913840957?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 would this be the best option then?


Yep that's the one. Just be prepared to pay a little extra once it comes in due to shipping fees.


----------



## Mifec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yep that's the one. Just be prepared to pay a little extra once it comes in due to shipping fees.


Shipping fee's or do you mean tax? Do they tack on shipping fees even though it says free?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mifec*
> 
> Shipping fee's or do you mean tax? Do they tack on shipping fees even though it says free?


I think every country outside of the US gets charged by a Customs Duty fee. I've seen many others here mention it. Maybe wait for one of them to give you some input on how much to expect?


----------



## Mifec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I think every country outside of the US gets charged by a Customs Duty fee. I've seen many others here mention it. Maybe wait for one of them to give you some input on how much to expect?


Oh yeah tax/duty, I am fully aware of it, my country supposedly does not have duty for computer parts only a VAT of 25% of the full cost of the product + about 10$ for administrative costs, I already have it set aside, including a 14% duty fee just in case.


----------



## arealMESSiah

I don't know if someone's reported this kind of issue in the past, but I just want to report a problem and possible fix I tried out for myself just now.

I have my monitor overclocked to 96Hz. I ran into issues with HTML5 and Flash videos. I first discovered it when I tried watching a YouTube video. Whenever one would start, I would get a scrambled screen with horizontal lines of mostly black and some white, black, blue, red, and green color lines. Most of the time, the monitor would correct the display to normal within 2 seconds, but sometimes, it would stay with the scrambled display, and I had to restart my computer to get it to work normally; turning off and on the monitor didn't do anything, and neither did changing DVI cables, at least with the 3 different ones I tried.

I didn't have this problem when the monitor was at stock 60Hz, so I tried reducing the pixel clock by lowering the total pixels and lines, but it didn't change anything at all. I then tried the opposite: increasing the pixel clock by increasing total pixels and lines. Doing that actually fixed my problem so far, and everything is running smoothly at the moment. The scrambled screen or display "lock" hasn't occurred yet. (Then again, I've implemented my "fix" within the hour, so we'll see how things turn out in the long run.).

The thing that I'm confused about though is that after I tried my possible fix, I re-checked CRU, and the settings appear to be of a previous setup where I tried lowering the pixel clock. I restarted my computer between each save and application of the profile settings, so I don't really know what happened.


----------



## freezer2k

Hi guys,

I noticed something weird on white background:

It feels a bit like the brightness is fluctuating a bit and that there's some flimmering going on. When I move the mouse there it looks normal, almost if this is going on 'behind' it.

It's very subtle and I only notice it when I concentrate on it. On darker background it's not noticeable at all.

Doesn't seem to make any difference if 60 or 90Hz.

Is this normal/panel type related?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Should be M4 x 10mm or so in length and a thread pitch of 0.7
> 
> This is what came with my Dell UltraSharp and VESA wall mount arm.


sweet thanks


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I noticed something weird on white background:
> 
> It feels a bit like the brightness is fluctuating a bit and that there's some flimmering going on. When I move the mouse there it looks normal, almost if this is going on 'behind' it.
> 
> It's very subtle and I only notice it when I concentrate on it. On darker background it's not noticeable at all.
> 
> Doesn't seem to make any difference if 60 or 90Hz.
> 
> Is this normal/panel type related?


How many clicks of brightness do you have it at?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arealMESSiah*
> 
> I don't know if someone's reported this kind of issue in the past, but I just want to report a problem and possible fix I tried out for myself just now.
> 
> I have my monitor overclocked to 96Hz. I ran into issues with HTML5 and Flash videos. I first discovered it when I tried watching a YouTube video. Whenever one would start, I would get a scrambled screen with horizontal lines of mostly black and some white, black, blue, red, and green color lines. Most of the time, the monitor would correct the display to normal within 2 seconds, but sometimes, it would stay with the scrambled display, and I had to restart my computer to get it to work normally; turning off and on the monitor didn't do anything, and neither did changing DVI cables, at least with the 3 different ones I tried.
> 
> I didn't have this problem when the monitor was at stock 60Hz, so I tried reducing the pixel clock by lowering the total pixels and lines, but it didn't change anything at all. I then tried the opposite: increasing the pixel clock by increasing total pixels and lines. Doing that actually fixed my problem so far, and everything is running smoothly at the moment. The scrambled screen or display "lock" hasn't occurred yet. (Then again, I've implemented my "fix" within the hour, so we'll see how things turn out in the long run.).
> 
> The thing that I'm confused about though is that after I tried my possible fix, I re-checked CRU, and the settings appear to be of a previous setup where I tried lowering the pixel clock. I restarted my computer between each save and application of the profile settings, so I don't really know what happened.


I haven't seen this issue. If turning off the monitor doesn't fix it, I suspect the cause is the video card/driver, not the monitor. Have you tried re-installing the drivers?


----------



## allindaze

I ordered from dream-seller and its been nearly a week and a half and its still in Korea. At only its second stop no less. I don't know if this is due to their thanksgiving holiday going on from 7-10th of September but its a lot longer than the 3 or 4 day delivery time I was expecting.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

That is exactly why it's still in Korea. Their Thanksgiving is their most sacred holiday as they drop everything they are doing and leave the factories, their employers and the big cities to travel to their ancestral hometowns to drink eat and be merry and to give thanks to their ancestors. The country is completely shut down during this time.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> How many clicks of brightness do you have it at?


Clicks?

It seems to be more present at lower light levels, but I'm not sure right now, have to check once I'm back home.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Hi guys, is this the right model for overclocking?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121256076370?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## mrgamer81

Yep, that one only have dvi input, so yeah that one can oc.


----------



## allindaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> That is exactly why it's still in Korea. Their Thanksgiving is their most sacred holiday as they drop everything they are doing and leave the factories, their employers and the big cities to travel to their ancestral hometowns to drink eat and be merry and to give thanks to their ancestors. The country is completely shut down during this time.


their ancestors?!?























how can they expect me to endure this torture??


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Clicks?
> 
> It seems to be more present at lower light levels, but I'm not sure right now, have to check once I'm back home.


Irregular slight flicker is present at the lowest light levels. Usually lowest and 1 click of brightness.


----------



## allindaze

In my defense this is what really bothers me...

Date/TimeActivity Location

9/09/2014 - Tuesday
-

9:56 pm
In transit
JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

5:48 pm
In transit
JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

9/08/2014 - Monday
-

6:12 pm
At local FedEx facility
JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

9/06/2014 - Saturday
-

9:12 pm
At local FedEx facility
JUNG-GU INCHEON KR

9/05/2014 - Friday
-

9:22 pm
Left FedEx origin facility
SASANG-GU BUSAN KR

6:28 pm
Picked up
Package received after FedEx cutoff
SASANG-GU BUSAN KR

9/02/2014 - Tuesday
-

1:04 am
Shipment information sent to FedEx


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allindaze*
> 
> their ancestors?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how can they expect me to endure this torture??


I have this sneaky feeling that they have no plans to stop celebrating their *several thousand year old major holiday* just because allindaze is upset he didn't get his monitor on time. lol


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Looking to buy a Qnix. what currently is the model to buy that I can overclock? Basically I just want 1440p that I can overclock.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Looking to buy a Qnix. what currently is the model to buy that I can overclock? Basically I just want 1440p that I can overclock.


----------



## yasamoka

Guys, it's been covered a million times. This is getting boring. Just read the last few pages and you'll know...

Read the OP, especially. Everything is covered there almost.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I can't stress how happy I am right now!
My stand came in - here's the one I purchased:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181501247704?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This is going to help my posture TONS and will provide me with MUCH more flexibility.
I'm not a fan of the silver base (which was super light) - but it does the job just right. Couldn't ask for more really.
As a note for people that would be interested in the same stand: It came with 8x M4 10mm screws.
The QNIX (I can confirm) uses screws that are shorter (as suggested by another member @ 7mm)
I shall be loooking out for some M4 7mm's - that said, it doesn't hinder the sturdiness, just that with 10mm it has a little more wiggle, which I rather eliminate. UPDATE: Found washers - does the job just fine (not perfect again, but much better - see pics at bottom)
I didn't (and won't) bother getting rid of the QNIX in-built stand -> reason being: I don't want to damage my flawless screen by opening it. I've read a few times now people opening their screens and damaging it (ie green lines etc).
I've got quite a bit of OCD and perfectionist traits and it honestly (and surprisingly) doesn't bother me + it acts as an easy tilt lever









Here are pics (taken with my phone):









Updated pics showing mount + washers:


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Guys, it's been covered a million times. This is getting boring. Just read the last few pages and you'll know...
> 
> Read the OP, especially. Everything is covered there almost.


I have not been keeping up with the monitor scene at all and would like opinions on sellers right now. If you are going to aim a comment at someone, quote what they say and respond to that. Don't be a little girl and make this general comment.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Wow, that's nicer looking than the Monoprice stand I was thinking about getting for it. However, I too don't like that silver plastic ring thing at the bottom, but at least it both tilts and pivots. Good job. Oh, and I use super strong M4 nylon washers to take up the extra space of the 10mm long screws. I have hundreds of them just in case. The 10mm worked well on my Dell, but did not on the Viewsonic which it now holds, and those washers perfectly did the trick.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Wow, that's nicer looking than the Monoprice stand I was thinking about getting for it. However, I too don't like that silver plastic ring thing at the bottom, but at least it both tilts and pivots. Good job. Oh, and I use super strong M4 nylon washers to take up the extra space of the 10mm long screws. I have hundreds of them just in case. The 10mm worked well on my Dell, but did not on the Viewsonic which it now holds, and those washers perfectly did the trick.


yeah works really well as far as I'm aware - even with shaking the desk and/or tapping the monitor - couldn't be happier.
I bought the stand mainly for posture - the monitor wasn't sitting where my eyes were - and was a little low - therefore causing me to look down constantly.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I have not been keeping up with the monitor scene at all and would like opinions on sellers right now. If you are going to aim a comment at someone, quote what they say and respond to that. Don't be a little girl and make this general comment.


It was meant to be a general comment, actually, seeing that many users are asking the same questions. I have no problem directing it at you but I wasn't.

I'm going to bite, though: stop asking useless questions and read the damn OP, the topic has been beaten to death and has been covered a million times with the models, sellers, prices, everything, every few pages, over and over again, like a broken record. So instead of wasting everyone's time and cluttering up the Qnix club thread, try to find the search box and type out what you're looking for. And don't be a rude noob, ever. Have a good day.


----------



## hammelgammler

Could be anyone be so kind and post the post from lawson67 where he describes how to fix the backlight bleeding?

Used the search function already, but i can't find it...

Is it only the metal frame which needs to be straightened, or the whole panel??
As i know it was the whole panel which is bend...

Thank you guys!


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It was meant to be a general comment, actually, seeing that many users are asking the same questions. I have no problem directing it at you but I wasn't.
> 
> I'm going to bite, though: stop asking useless questions and read the damn OP, the topic has been beaten to death and has been covered a million times with the models, sellers, prices, everything, every few pages, over and over again, like a broken record. So instead of wasting everyone's time and cluttering up the Qnix club thread, try to find the search box and type out what you're looking for. And don't be a rude noob, ever. Have a good day.


How is the question that I ask useless in any way? I'm not going to read through hundreds pages. If you've got a problem with it then simply don't post and only respond to the questions that you want to respond to. This discussion is anything relevant to the Qnix monitors so you have no right to say what should and shouldn't posted here.

So instead of wasting people's time by posting stupid comments that don't actually do/mean anything you could be useful or simply not post. And calling me rude is a little out there. Sounds like you are the passive aggressive one. Have a good day though.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I have not been keeping up with the monitor scene at all and would like opinions on sellers right now.


If you have to buy from ebay, try one of the ones mentioned in this thread, either green sum, storewithstorey, accessorieswhole, dream-seller, bigclothcraft or gmarketstore. Those all have over a 99% rating, and the first three mentioned seem to be the favorites as far as I can tell. Amazon might be better though since they have a much tougher policy in order to sell with them. All of them are however just getting back from an exhausting trip (Korean Thanksgiving) from their hometowns, so expect some delays as they try and catch up with emails and orders.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yeah works really well as far as I'm aware - even with shaking the desk and/or tapping the monitor - couldn't be happier.
> I bought the stand mainly for posture - the monitor wasn't sitting where my eyes were - and was a little low - therefore causing me to look down constantly.


Yeah I agree, I tap the keyboard way to hard and bump into the desk way too much, so I have a feeling I will be purchasing my own stand as well.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> If you have to buy from ebay, try one of the ones mentioned in this thread, either green sum, storewithstorey, accessorieswhole, dream-seller, bigclothcraft or gmarketstore. Those all have over a 99% rating, and the first three mentioned seem to be the favorites as far as I can tell. Amazon might be better though since they have a much tougher policy in order to sell with them. All of them are however just getting back from an exhausting trip (Korean Thanksgiving) from their hometowns, so expect some delays as they try and catch up with emails and orders.


Hmm, i appreciate it, as far as sellers, is it worth buying it on newegg over amazon over ebay? Or is it basically just what has the best price at the time?


----------



## allindaze

Yeah
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I have this sneaky feeling that they have no plans to stop celebrating their *several thousand year old major holiday* just because allindaze is upset he didn't get his monitor on time. lol


I shouldn't have come off bothered so much that they have a holiday more so that for the week leading up to the holiday absolutely nothing happened. Which is why I mentioned dream-seller. I'm wondering why it took 3 days to get moving in the first place. What I'm disappointed about is that it looks like it's going to take 2 full weeks before I get to see my monitors.... not that they're celebrating their holiday


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Hmm, i appreciate it, as far as sellers, is it worth buying it on newegg over amazon over ebay? Or is it basically just what has the best price at the time?


I'm going to leave that question up to you to answer, because for me I need to know I am using a trusted local seller. I plan on using either Amazon or IPSLEDMonitors myself when it comes time to get this Qnix. I have already sent emails asking the korean sellers if they are willing to replace PCB's if they go bad, but if not I am leaning towards IPSLEDMonitors myself with the addon 3 year warranty. I emailed the BBB asking them about IPSLEDMonitors, but have not heard back from them. They seem like nothing more than a middleman for Korean monitors, but their generous warranty, if it holds true seems very fair to me. At $349, they are clearly marking them up but that is to be expected. Chances are if they are taking back monitors under their own warranty they are more than likely using them for parts, and thus may be a great local source of korean monitor parts in the future. Anyway, I have not purchased a korean monitor as of yet, so you need to do your research, as we all have, and decide for yourself.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I'm going to leave that question up to you to answer, because for me I need to know I am using a trusted local seller. I plan on using either Amazon or IPSLEDMonitors myself when it comes time to get this Qnix. I have already sent emails asking the korean sellers if they are willing to replace PCB's if they go bad, but if not I am leaning towards IPSLEDMonitors myself with the addon 3 year warranty. I emailed the BBB asking them about IPSLEDMonitors, but have not heard back from them. They seem like nothing more than a middleman for Korean monitors, but their generous warranty, if it holds true seems very fair to me. At $349, they are clearly marking them up but that is to be expected. Chances are if they are taking back monitors under their own warranty they are more than likely using them for parts, and thus may be a great local source of korean monitor parts in the future. Anyway, I have not purchased a korean monitor as of yet, so you need to do your research, as we all have, and decide for yourself.


Hmmm, decisions decisions. Maybe i'll order off of amazon as well.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allindaze*
> 
> Yeah
> I shouldn't have come off bothered so much that they have a holiday more so that for the week leading up to the holiday absolutely nothing happened. Which is why I mentioned dream-seller. I'm wondering why it took 3 days to get moving in the first place. What I'm disappointed about is that it looks like it's going to take 2 full weeks before I get to see my monitors.... not that they're celebrating their holiday


I bet dream seller got the monitor out his doors already, but they probably had a large rush of orders to work on before the holidays, and they probably lost some workers early. However, when it was being prepared for shipment by other parties (the carriers) the time came for them to close shop, drop everything they were doing and it just never left the country (my guess). With a little research you can see just how big this holiday is to them. Its kinda like expecting Christians to go in on Christmas day and take care of a backlog of monitor deliveries when they have a large family waiting and expecting them 150 miles away. They drop everything (only the very essential services keep running) and a mass exodus occurs with one goal in mind, to visit their ancestors/families hometowns and clean up the old grave plots, and old cemeteries and visit everyone. They even bring food and drink to these places and offer them to their dead ancestors, lol. Anyway, I suspect the seller really isn't at fault for anything. They probably just didn't have enough time to get it out the doors in time. The holiday fell on the 8th I think (its a three day long event, not counting all the slow travel time to and from the places), but you have to understand, its a MASS EXODUS, so tons of preparation has to occur, probably days and days of preparations, locating places to stay, calling people ahead of time, and not to mention some people may have several locations to visit, and hundreds of ancestors to pay respect to, all while using slow scooters trying to avoid certain death because of the crazy driving they do. It literally sounds like something that takes them a week or more to fully complete. It is their #1 most celebrated holiday and every bit as big as Christmas is to Christians.

So just chalk it up to bad timing on your part, lol. Any other time of the year it would have been only a few days to get to you. They are a proud nation, and very proud of their own culture and work hard to satisfy the needs of their customers. I wouldnt hesitate to purchase from them if I wasn't so concerned about the difficult return problem. And if they tell me they will send me any part that goes bad, say a LCD control board etc, I may still do it just to save the extra bucks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Hmmm, decisions decisions. Maybe i'll order off of amazon as well.


That is the safest bet. We all know for sure it can be returned then...


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I can't stress how happy I am right now!
> My stand came in - here's the one I purchased:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181501247704?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> This is going to help my posture TONS and will provide me with MUCH more flexibility.
> I'm not a fan of the silver base (which was super light) - but it does the job just right. Couldn't ask for more really.
> As a note for people that would be interested in the same stand: It came with 8x M4 10mm screws.
> The QNIX (I can confirm) uses screws that are shorter (as suggested by another member @ 7mm)
> I shall be loooking out for some M4 7mm's - that said, it doesn't hinder the sturdiness, just that with 10mm it has a little more wiggle, which I rather eliminate. UPDATE: Found washers - does the job just fine (not perfect again, but much better - see pics at bottom)
> I didn't (and won't) bother getting rid of the QNIX in-built stand -> reason being: I don't want to damage my flawless screen by opening it. I've read a few times now people opening their screens and damaging it (ie green lines etc).
> I've got quite a bit of OCD and perfectionist traits and it honestly (and surprisingly) doesn't bother me + it acts as an easy tilt lever


Awesome,

glad you are happy with it!

This is how I fixed up mine:
Got those 4.3x20mm shims from a hardware store. Put 4 of them under each screw for a good distance (3 seems fine too).


----------



## kyleadavis94

I am hoping that someone may have an idea of a fix for my problem. I have the X-Star 1440p monitor but recently the bottom left corner has just went dim and I have no idea how to fix it. I have it opened up to see if i could get a closer look at the LED's and was hoping that i would be able to fix them if they were out but as far as i can tell they still work.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyleadavis94*
> 
> I am hoping that someone may have an idea of a fix for my problem. I have the X-Star 1440p monitor but recently the bottom left corner has just went dim and I have no idea how to fix it. I have it opened up to see if i could get a closer look at the LED's and was hoping that i would be able to fix them if they were out but as far as i can tell they still work.


You may have to dig deeper. From the pics it does look like some LED's have gone out, but LED's don't normally die together, so that may be an issue with the LED driver circuit. Unless only one LED has made that big of a difference?


----------



## kyleadavis94

Thank you for the reply. I will try to get to the LED's tonight. If it is the LED's how hard would it be to replace or can you even replace an LED in a monitor?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Awesome,
> 
> glad you are happy with it!
> 
> This is how I fixed up mine:
> Got those 4.3x20mm shims from a hardware store. Put 4 of them under each screw for a good distance (3 seems fine too).


Nice bro!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyleadavis94*
> 
> Thank you for the reply. I will try to get to the LED's tonight. If it is the LED's how hard would it be to replace or can you even replace an LED in a monitor?


Well considering I used to refurb smart phones and I am used to very small surface mount components, it should be really easy. But that does not mean the average joe can do it. I guess it depends on the type of led and the tools one has to work with. My solder tips go down to 0.5mm in size...


----------



## jameyscott

Just bought my second QNIX 2710. This wouldn't wasn't an "SE" model, so hopefully it will overclock better! 96hz is great, but I want moar!

For those of you who don't keep up with this thread, I wanted another one so that I could do some light color editing and stuff on my second system which up until this purchase has been unusable due to having TN panels on it (and 1080P ugh) so I haven't even been using it. That's about to change!


----------



## Turok

AUOptronics Develops 144 Hz WQHD IPS Panel
by
btarunr
Yesterday, 06:27 Discuss (10 Comments)
Display panel OEM AU Optronics announced development of a new 27-inch AHVA panel. AHVA, or advanced hyper-viewing angle, is AU Optronics' equivalent of LG's IPS panel technology, and is not to be confused with AMVA (advanced multidomain vertical alignment). Codenamed M270DAN02.3, the panel offers stellar refresh rates of 144 Hz, and native resolution of 2560 x 1440 pixels. Other vitals include 1000:1 contrast ratio, 350 cd/m² maximum brightness, sRGB gamut, and of course, 178°/178° viewing angles. Its introduction could spur growth of "gaming" grade monitors, which come with technologies specific to gaming PCs, such as AMD FreeSync and NVIDIA G-Sync support, that dynamically sync the display's refresh-rate with the frame-rate of the graphics card, to minimize stuttering, and produce a fluid display output.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It was meant to be a general comment, actually, seeing that many users are asking the same questions. I have no problem directing it at you but I wasn't.
> 
> I'm going to bite, though: stop asking useless questions and read the damn OP, the topic has been beaten to death and has been covered a million times with the models, sellers, prices, everything, every few pages, over and over again, like a broken record. So instead of wasting everyone's time and cluttering up the Qnix club thread, try to find the search box and type out what you're looking for. And don't be a rude noob, ever. Have a good day.


It would just be easier if the OP had eBay links. Otherwise people like myself will keep asking over and over again.

I don't particularly want to chance it and trawl through 2000+ pages of a thread to find some regional links to a monitor.

For instance, at no point does the OP provide any information on what the differences are between the SE and non SE models, I still don't know myself.


----------



## dante`afk

I asked this several months ago without a response, so here again. My first screen that I bought last year has kind of a 'bug' when I press the power button to shut if off the backlight stays on sometimes. So it's dark with light.

Any fix for this or does anyone have the same? (bought May 2013)


----------



## hammelgammler

Bought a third QNIX together with a triple monitor stand.

Time to debezel!









Sorry that i ask again, but what fixed BLB 100% now? Straighten the whole panel or just the metal frame around the panel?


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

I went ahead and bought a qx2710 to use as my main monitor. I get a call from fedex saying they need a completed FCC form before they can send it through customs?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I went ahead and bought a qx2710 to use as my main monitor. I get a call from fedex saying they need a completed FCC form before they can send it through customs?


I had to do this too. It's really just a formality, since it's only one item, but it is required. (my first one came with one attached to the box, so I didn't have to do anything),


----------



## niceuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I went ahead and bought a qx2710 to use as my main monitor. I get a call from fedex saying they need a completed FCC form before they can send it through customs?


Check this post from earlier in this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/19840#post_22661394

This helped me out filling the 740 form, however the customs people marked my monitor with the wrong HTS code anyways, 8528.59.50 instead of 8528.51.00. The former is a catch all category in case the product didn't fit with any other code and has a duty rate of 5%. However there is no reason that this monitor would not fit the 8528.51.00 description, so that is something to watch out for.

edit: quoted wrong post


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Irregular slight flicker is present at the lowest light levels. Usually lowest and 1 click of brightness.


Damn... for me this seems to happen even on about 60% brightness.

Is there a fix for this?

Anyone else is experiencing this?

Only really notice it with bright colour backgrounds and can probably live with it, but I'm afraid this is some sort of pre-fail condition and that the monitor might not live for long


----------



## allindaze

Delivered!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allindaze*
> 
> Delivered!


I thought you said it was still in Korea? lol


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Could be anyone be so kind and post the post from lawson67 where he describes how to fix the backlight bleeding?
> 
> Used the search function already, but i can't find it...
> 
> Is it only the metal frame which needs to be straightened, or the whole panel??
> As i know it was the whole panel which is bend...
> 
> Thank you guys!


Lawson and many others had much more satisfactory results with "Frame Straightening" (No Tape) ... OP needs an update








And I'm not sure how you would even attempt to straighten the panel itself as all of it's integrity really comes from the frame ...
see *HERE*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> It would just be easier if the OP had eBay links. Otherwise people like myself will keep asking over and over again.
> 
> I don't particularly want to chance it and trawl through 2000+ pages of a thread to find some regional links to a monitor.
> 
> For instance, at no point does the OP provide any information on what the differences are between the SE and non SE models, I still don't know myself.


Again It's hard to get the OP updated but check my post *HERE* five or so days ago








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> I asked this several months ago without a response, so here again. My first screen that I bought last year has kind of a 'bug' when I press the power button to shut if off the backlight stays on sometimes. So it's dark with light.
> 
> Any fix for this or does anyone have the same? (bought May 2013)


Lots of funky things happen with these panels, it's Intermittent so I doubt that it's your PCB ... many have had success with breaking down the panel and double checking all their connections ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turok*
> 
> AUOptronics Develops 144 Hz WQHD IPS Panel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> by
> btarunr
> Yesterday, 06:27 Discuss (10 Comments)
> Display panel OEM AU Optronics announced development of a new 27-inch AHVA panel. AHVA, or advanced hyper-viewing angle, is AU Optronics' equivalent of LG's IPS panel technology, and is not to be confused with AMVA (advanced multidomain vertical alignment). Codenamed M270DAN02.3, the panel offers stellar refresh rates of 144 Hz, and native resolution of 2560 x 1440 pixels. Other vitals include 1000:1 contrast ratio, 350 cd/m² maximum brightness, sRGB gamut, and of course, 178°/178° viewing angles. Its introduction could spur growth of "gaming" grade monitors, which come with technologies specific to gaming PCs, such as AMD FreeSync and NVIDIA G-Sync support, that dynamically sync the display's refresh-rate with the frame-rate of the graphics card, to minimize stuttering, and produce a fluid display output
> 
> 
> .


Nice info ... +R







.... But let's see what manufacturers (Asus etc?) do with this panel AND at what "Price Point"?
It'll be amazing if anyone can seriously challenge QNIX for less than double the $$$ of the QNIX


----------



## joethepro

Ive heard that overclocking will reduce the color quality of this monitor and may alter the gamma response. Is this true? I will be using this for photo and video editing mainly, so I dont want to risk any color degradation.


----------



## allindaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I thought you said it was still in Korea? lol


As of 5:48pm yesterday it was!







lol. Freakin' amazing.








-

9/10/2014 - Wednesday
1:22 pm
Delivered

HOUSTON, TX
7:14 am
On FedEx vehicle for delivery

HOUSTON, TX
7:05 am
At local FedEx facility

HOUSTON, TX
5:50 am
At destination sort facility

HOUSTON, TX
4:36 am
Departed FedEx location

MEMPHIS, TN
1:02 am
Arrived at FedEx location

MEMPHIS, TN
-

9/09/2014 - Tuesday
4:09 pm
Departed FedEx location

ANCHORAGE, AK
1:12 pm
International shipment release - Import

ANCHORAGE, AK
12:09 pm
Arrived at FedEx location

ANCHORAGE, AK
9:56 pm
In transit

JUNG-GU INCHEON KR
5:48 pm
In transit

JUNG-GU INCHEON KR
-

9/08/2014 - Monday
6:12 pm
At local FedEx facility

JUNG-GU INCHEON KR
-

9/06/2014 - Saturday
9:12 pm
At local FedEx facility

JUNG-GU INCHEON KR
-

9/05/2014 - Friday
9:22 pm
Left FedEx origin facility

SASANG-GU BUSAN KR
6:28 pm
Picked up

SASANG-GU BUSAN KR

Package received after FedEx cutoff
-

9/02/2014 - Tuesday
1:04 am
Shipment information sent to FedEx


----------



## allindaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joethepro*
> 
> Ive heard that overclocking will reduce the color quality of this monitor and may alter the gamma response. Is this true? I will be using this for photo and video editing mainly, so I dont want to risk any color degradation.


The faster the refresh rate the dimmer the screen. It's physics. Software tweaking and color calibration minimize the effects though. If you're mainly editing video and photos why are you concerned with OC'ing?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allindaze*
> 
> As of 5:48pm yesterday it was!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol. Freakin' amazing.


I read a Qnix review at Amazon and the guy said he purchased it before going to work one morning, and the very next day, 1 day later it was delivered. Sure like to know what service can get a large item across to the other side of the worlds largest ocean in a day. Maybe you should have waited to order it until yesterday, LOL.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joethepro*
> 
> Ive heard that overclocking will reduce the color quality of this monitor and may alter the gamma response. Is this true? I will be using this for photo and video editing mainly, so I dont want to risk any color degradation.


I've also heard that it does not happen on all panels. There is a review on youtube showing that the user goes from 60hz to 96hz to 110hz to 115hz and not once does the color appear to dim or change in any way for him. To me from everything I have read, it appears to be luck of the draw as to what you get, lol...


----------



## joethepro

Some people complain about the PWM dimming, not many, but Ive seen some complaints. I saw people saying that you need to set the brightness to max on the monitor (to get a 100% duty cycle, assuming its at 100% at max brightness), then use the video card software or a windows tool to reduce the brightness. This makes no sense to me, as the only way to dim the monitor is via PWM dimming. So whether you do it in the monitor or through windows, whats the difference?


----------



## sinnedone

So I think I might be purchasing one of these monitors soon and have a couple of quick questions.

Im looking at this Qnix from accessorieswhole and this xstar from dream-seller.

The qnix from accesorieswhole says "SE" in the title. I believe I read this means something, What does it mean exactly? (lower quality?)

That seller also lists a 1 year warranty, how viable is this and has anyone tried collecting on this warranty?

Are there any things. tips etc for choosing?

Help will be appreciated.


----------



## Remleh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So I think I might be purchasing one of these monitors soon and have a couple of quick questions.
> 
> Im looking at this Qnix from accessorieswhole and this xstar from dream-seller.
> 
> The qnix from accesorieswhole says "SE" in the title. I believe I read this means something, What does it mean exactly? (lower quality?)
> 
> That seller also lists a 1 year warranty, how viable is this and has anyone tried collecting on this warranty?
> 
> Are there any things. tips etc for choosing?
> 
> Help will be appreciated.


The SE means that monitor is second edition. Meaning that there may be up to 5 dead pixels and not 3 as it was on the first edition. Someone said also in this thread that the SE overclocks worse but can't say if it's true or not.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

No one knows what the SE means, however I keep reading it does not overclock as well. Without both at my side I wouldn't know. Good luck with warranty replacement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remleh*
> 
> The SE means that monitor is second edition. Meaning that there may be up to 5 dead pixels and not 3 as it was on the first edition. Someone said also in this thread that the SE overclocks worse but can't say if it's true or not.


Hell knowing the koreans it could be anything really. Take your pick...

Spend Extra
Sorry Excuse
Super Expensive
Super Encredable? (what? you never seen someone from an Asian country misspell an english word before?) lol
Slower Edition
Substandard Edition
Shoddy Equipment
Scrambled Eggs? LOL
Signature Edition
Somewhat Erratic
Something Else? LOL
Special Edition
Second Edition

Or maybe Scalar Enhanced?

Oh another one I just thought of after looking through all the ebay listings. It could be "Slim Edition" or since it is a Evolution II, it could even stand for "Second Evolution". Another thing I noticed is all the SE models claim to be overclockable without frame skipping, and ones that do not have SE in the title do not claim this spec. Your guess is as good as mine... lol


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joethepro*
> 
> Some people complain about the PWM dimming, not many, but Ive seen some complaints. I saw people saying that you need to set the brightness to max on the monitor (to get a 100% duty cycle, assuming its at 100% at max brightness), then use the video card software or a windows tool to reduce the brightness. This makes no sense to me, as the only way to dim the monitor is via PWM dimming. So whether you do it in the monitor or through windows, whats the difference?


I thought the Qnix is not using PWM?!?


----------



## TheoLas

Hello!
The expansion of the categories in the OP doesn't work for me. Is there a way to fix that?


----------



## joethepro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> I thought the Qnix is not using PWM?!?


Really? I have no idea, but from what I have read I thought it did.


----------



## the9quad

Pretty sure it doesn't use pwm,mine does not. In addition, the SE is always listed at a 8ms pixel response time and I belive the older one is 5-6ms pixel response time. As far as gamma shift on overclocking, yes it happens and that is why most will calibrate the monitor at the refresh rates they use or use someone else color profile they like.


----------



## joethepro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Pretty sure it doesn't use pwm,mine does not. In addition, the SE is always listed at a 8ms pixel response time and I belive the older one is 5-6ms pixel response time. As far as gamma shift on overclocking, yes it happens and that is why most will calibrate the monitor at the refresh rates they use or use someone else color profile they like.


Thanks for the response. So even if the gamma is changed after overlocking, a calibration should take care of that 100%?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Pretty sure it doesn't use pwm,mine does not. In addition, the SE is always listed at a 8ms pixel response time and I belive the older one is 5-6ms pixel response time. As far as gamma shift on overclocking, yes it happens and that is why most will calibrate the monitor at the refresh rates they use or use someone else color profile they like.


So I would be better off with an x-star from dreamseller vs the "SE" qnix from accessorieswhole?

I rather have a lower response time and better chance of overclocking since I want to use these monitors to game at hopefully close to 120hz.


----------



## hammelgammler

Any advice how exaclty i should straighten the metal frame?

Any tricks or something that makes it easier?


----------



## hammelgammler

Here's a picture from my current bend, which needs to be straight...



And here's my hopefull solution, could anyone tell me if that could work if i let it rest overnight?



Thank you all very much!


----------



## seanp2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Awesome,
> 
> glad you are happy with it!
> 
> This is how I fixed up mine:
> Got those 4.3x20mm shims from a hardware store. Put 4 of them under each screw for a good distance (3 seems fine too).


++

I think that is the neoflex? Not sure. I bought that stand as well. Bro just take it apart and remove the little left over piece of the stand.. I was hyperventilating meself but it's not really necessary. These things have so little to them inside. It's just a matter of being slow and methodical. The hardest part is the clips and they aren't bad really. again just slow and methodical. It's worth it I feel. Just my two cents.

Well I love my Qnix. I kinda want the rog swift but I just can't justify it at the moment.

Dead Space was amazing (somehow I never played this game and the wait in 1440p was so worth it) and Bioshock infinite is a pleasure. Best dang electronic purchase of me life...


----------



## darthdirty

ok guys im about to buy one of these. i was thinking about X-Star from dreamseller. Should i get the Pixel Perfect one? please someone respond soon.


----------



## jameyscott

A state away in just two days. Makes me wonder how inside US shipping sucks so bad. 2 days from Korean and already this close? Pretty awesome if you ask me.


----------



## sinnedone

So I received a response to my question about the "SE" in the description for some of the qnix listings on ebay. This is what the ebay seller said about the "SE"
Quote:


> SE monitor has 0~8 dead/stuck pixel
> non-SE monitor has 0~5 dead/stuck pixel


So it appears to be a qc thing.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> ok guys im about to buy one of these. i was thinking about X-Star from dreamseller. Should i get the Pixel Perfect one? please someone respond soon.


Most opinions are picture perfect is a waist of money


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Most opinions are picture perfect is a waist of money


+1


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So I received a response to my question about the "SE" in the description for some of the qnix listings on ebay. This is what the ebay seller said about the "SE"
> So it appears to be a qc thing.


I wouldnt trust the sellers view on anything, they also all say the multi-input will OC.

Qnix Qx2710 27" 2560x1440 Monitor Specification
Condition : New in manufacture box
Model :*QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ*
Screen Size : 27 inch(68.14cm) Wide
Display Technology : LED
Panel : SAMSUNG PLS
Max. Resolution : 2560 X 1440(WQHD)
Video inputs : DVI-D
View Angle : 178° / 178°
Speaker : 5W + 5W
Consumption / Standby Power : 43W / 0.5W
*Respond Time : 6ms(GtoG)*
Aspect Ratio : 16:10
Dynamic Contrast Ratio : 50,000:1
Static Contrast Ratio : 1,000:1
Brightness : 300 cd/m²
Vesa Mount : 100 x 100 mm
Function : Tilt
Weight : 5.2 kg(11.46 lb)

-Model name: *QX2710 Evolution II SE*
-Panel: SAMSUNG PLS LED BACK LIGHT MODULE
-Screen size: 27inch(68.6cm), 16:9
-Resoultion: 2560x1440(QHD)
-Contrast Ratio: 1000:1
-Brightness: 300cd/m2
*-Response time: 8ms*
-Viewing angle: 178(H), 178(V)
-Port: DVI-D(DUAL Link)

pecification
* Product: *Crossover 27QW IPS LED*
* Screen Size: 27" (68.47cm)
* Panel: LG QHD AH-IPS LED Back Light
* Resolution: 2560 X 1440 QHD
* Aspect Ratio: 16:9
* Static Contrast Ratio: 1,000:1
* Brightness:420cd/m2
** Response Time: 6 ms*
* Viewing Angle: 178°/178°
* In put port: DVI-D dual Link,Audio in/Out
* Speaker: 6W (3W+3W)
* Power Consumption: 70W(on), 1W(Stand bu,off)
* Required Volt: AC100~240V 50HZ/60HZ
* Function : Tilt


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah, what the9squad said for sure. The sellers are just ebay sellers located in South Korea, they are not monitor experts, nor do they base their selling solely on monitors. I would ask every seller who sells these in ebay in order to get a better idea of the legitimacy of that claim.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Most opinions are picture perfect is a waist of money


well i ordered it this morning, only bad thing is he is out until the 14th, didnt get the Pixel Perfect


----------



## joethepro

SoI successfully overclocked my QX2710 with the NVCP to 120Hz. I installed the driver, I installed the full patch so that my gtx560ti will work with it. But I dont see any difference! Everything looks the same as with 60Hz. I wonder if something did not work correctly?

Nvm, it was frame skipping. 96Hz is nice and smooth.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Anyone know what the Samsung Panels part number or model number is? I want to see if its possible to buy just the panel itself.


----------



## jameyscott

Haven't opened up the box yet to see if my panel is good, but another QNIX and only another 2 days to arrive! Crazy awesome.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joethepro*
> 
> SoI successfully overclocked my QX2710 with the NVCP to 120Hz. I installed the driver, I installed the full patch so that my gtx560ti will work with it. But I dont see any difference! Everything looks the same as with 60Hz. I wonder if something did not work correctly?
> 
> Nvm, it was frame skipping. 96Hz is nice and smooth.


Which Qnix? It matters a lot for us to know.


----------



## joethepro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Which Qnix? It matters a lot for us to know.


Single DVI input model. I havent tried anything between 96 Hz and 120 Hz, but Im fine with either 90 or 96 for video purposes. I edit footage more than I play games.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joethepro*
> 
> Single DVI input model. I havent tried anything between 96 Hz and 120 Hz, but Im fine with either 90 or 96 for video purposes. I edit footage more than I play games.


120Hz should never frameskip on a single-input. Can you show us the results of this please? Using a camera of course. 5 boxes are enough (on, off, on, off, on).


----------



## joethepro

e
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 120Hz should never frameskip on a single-input. Can you show us the results of this please? Using a camera of course. 5 boxes are enough (on, off, on, off, on).


I deleted the photos, but trust me, it was bad. Not all of these monitors are created equal!


----------



## jameyscott

Well... I opened up my monitor only to find no power cord, DVI cable, and that it was a mutli. I missed it in the excitement of ordering my monitor. The good news is there is no dead pixels. I'll report back with how overclocking goes later. I'm also going to message accessorieswhole about this and see what they'll do. I'm really hoping it doesn't overclock so I can tell them that and they can rectify it with either a new PCB that will let me overclock (single DVI) or replace the whole thing.

EDIT: I'm also having issues of TestUFO working. I'm gettting some major dips to like 38 FPS randomly and it will never sync to whatever Hz I put it at. I can set it to 75Hz and it still syncs to 60hz. I tried 120hz and it worked with Heaven benchmark but the second I try pulling up TestUFO the screen shuts off until I drag my mouse into the right corner and click out of the browser.









Really need some help. =/ I'm going to wait and see what you guys say before I contact accessorieswhole.

EDIT2: It seems as though if I set it to 96hz the browser will show 48fps (half) and if I do 75Hz it will shows dips to 37-38hz. I'm extremely confused.


----------



## renji1337

What games seem to work with icc profiles


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> What games seem to work with icc profiles


Almost all.
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=4775334
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=386325


----------



## darthdirty

FYI if you order any monitor from a Korean Ebay seller on a Friday becuase of the time difference it is already Saturday for them or late Friday night and it will not ship that day... i learned the hard way but mine is still on order. Wish i had heard back from dreamseller by now.


----------



## treysonn88

i own a Qnix 2710 Evolution II monitor. It is a single-output (DVI-D). Therefore, my model does not have an OSD. The 5 buttons i have are "power", "Vol -", "Vol =", "BRI -", AND "BRI+". Somehow with screwing around with the buttons i managed to set the screen back into the factory setting where the screen flashes blue, green, red, black, and white sequentially for 1 second each, much like many of the youtube videos to check for dead pixels. I was told that the manufacturer uses this mode to check for dead pixels and other things. A factory reset would get me out of this mode. However, i don't know how to do that. Anyone have knowledge on how to do this or a button combination on the models with a OSD that you can pass on?


----------



## Zero4549

Just checking in. One of the first X-Star owners on OCN AFAIK. The X-Star unboxing pics on the first page of this thread are mine for whatever that is worth.

I've been running the panel at mostly 96hz. I can push it to about 130, but I sometimes (not every day, but some days, and the days it happens, it happens maybe once or twice every 15 min) get scan lines at anything 120 or higher.

I haven't really discovered what determines if I will get scan lines on a given day, but I haven't really tried since it works perfectly 100% of the time at 96hz, and colors start getting too shifted to completely compensate for when you go over 110 or so. I also tend to get rapidly diminishing returns once I go over 100hz or so, due in part to my 680 not being able to push more frames than that in demanding games, and also to the inherent time it takes for the actual pixel transitions, and of course just my own human reaction time.

Basically, 96 is a pretty sweet spot for these panels, at least for my setup.

I haven't had any kind of degradation of the panel itself in the year and a half I've had it. Overclocked almost 24/7 since I got it, and actively running at least 3/4 of that time.

When the panel was still new, I would occasionally get some very slight image persistence if I left a _light blue_ object on screen in the same position for several hours, but it would clear up after just 5 min of moving it / normal usage.

It no longer happens at all for whatever reason. Perhaps it is because I have replaced the generic drivers with the catleap extreme, and then the x-star specific drivers. Perhaps it is because my room is now air conditioned. Perhaps it just needed time to "break in" somehow. Whatever.

Now, when I got my panel, it didn't have any noticeable backlight bleed or stuck/dead pixels. The stand however was crooked, causing the panel to lean about 5 degrees to the right. The panel itself was also just slightly too low in the frame, causing the lower bezel to butt right up against the bottom row of pixels, and partially obscuring them if looking at it from a low enough angle. I've ghetto "fixed" the stand by stacking some coins under one side. The bottom row of pixels wasn't really a big enough issue to bother me.

I've since moved, and the monitor got bumped around a bit. Somewhere along the way, the panel slipped a bit further down in the frame. The bottom row is completely obscured, second row of pixels is half obscured, and there is a tiny bit of bleed on the bottom left corner. It doesn't really bother me too much, since I always planned on replacing the stand, and that would require me to open the bezel anyway to remove the original stand (and thus give me a good opportunity to fix the panel position).

Speaking of replacing the stand, I just ordered 3 Ergotron LX Sit-Stand wall arms. I'll be mounting the X-Star to one, and two older panels to the others. I'll report back again when I've done that.

The last thing I have to mention is that I also persuaded my GF and one of my good friends to pick up the same panels. Both love them. Neither has had any issues. That makes a 3/3 with no issues from long term overclocking in my personal experience.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treysonn88*
> 
> i own a Qnix 2710 Evolution II monitor. It is a single-output (DVI-D). Therefore, my model does not have an OSD. The 5 buttons i have are "power", "Vol -", "Vol =", "BRI -", AND "BRI+". Somehow with screwing around with the buttons i managed to set the screen back into the factory setting where the screen flashes blue, green, red, black, and white sequentially for 1 second each, much like many of the youtube videos to check for dead pixels. I was told that the manufacturer uses this mode to check for dead pixels and other things. A factory reset would get me out of this mode. However, i don't know how to do that. Anyone have knowledge on how to do this or a button combination on the models with a OSD that you can pass on?


I got this once or twice, from messing with DVI inputs on different GPUs when my PSU blew and I was trying to diagnose the system. Fully powering off both the system and the panel fixed it for me.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treysonn88*
> 
> i own a Qnix 2710 Evolution II monitor. It is a single-output (DVI-D). Therefore, my model does not have an OSD. The 5 buttons i have are "power", "Vol -", "Vol =", "BRI -", AND "BRI+". Somehow with screwing around with the buttons i managed to set the screen back into the factory setting where the screen flashes blue, green, red, black, and white sequentially for 1 second each, much like many of the youtube videos to check for dead pixels. I was told that the manufacturer uses this mode to check for dead pixels and other things. A factory reset would get me out of this mode. However, i don't know how to do that. Anyone have knowledge on how to do this or a button combination on the models with a OSD that you can pass on?


You didn't get here by pushing the buttons, this happens when the monitor doesn't have a signal. Check your cable connections. I would check the connection at the monitor first, since pushing the buttons may have shifted the monitor, moving the cable.


----------



## Moragg

Well, I'm going to check in as having an XStar for a year to say the overclock is still lovely, but about 3 months ago I developed a green stuck sub-pixel. Since it's only the sub-pixel the others work fine, so it's only only colours which have no green (i.e practically nothing) that it becomes remotely noticeable. Hell, the only reason I saw it was because I was playing The Dark Mod and I noticed a very slight problem - like a tiny speck of dust - on an image comprised mostly of red + black.

The pixels are so tiny I forget about it's existence most of the time, and only really see it on a black background. With pixels this small it doesn't really matter, and 120Hz 1440p PLS is still as beautiful as ever.


----------



## hammelgammler

Hey guys,

I am debezeling my monitor for a triple setup, and search for a way, to permantly, but not forever, mount the PCB Box to the Panel.
It should come off when forcing it with much power, but should be strong enough to hold it secure 24/7.

I bought this double sided tape, do you think that this is enough?


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Just checking in. One of the first X-Star owners on OCN AFAIK. The X-Star unboxing pics on the first page of this thread are mine for whatever that is worth.
> 
> Did any of the 3 of them ordered did u get the perfect pixel versions?? I ordered mine the other day and just got the regular version
> I've been running the panel at mostly 96hz. I can push it to about 130, but I sometimes (not every day, but some days, and the days it happens, it happens maybe once or twice every 15 min) get scan lines at anything 120 or higher.
> 
> I haven't really discovered what determines if I will get scan lines on a given day, but I haven't really tried since it works perfectly 100% of the time at 96hz, and colors start getting too shifted to completely compensate for when you go over 110 or so. I also tend to get rapidly diminishing returns once I go over 100hz or so, due in part to my 680 not being able to push more frames than that in demanding games, and also to the inherent time it takes for the actual pixel transitions, and of course just my own human reaction time.
> 
> Basically, 96 is a pretty sweet spot for these panels, at least for my setup.
> 
> I haven't had any kind of degradation of the panel itself in the year and a half I've had it. Overclocked almost 24/7 since I got it, and actively running at least 3/4 of that time.
> 
> When the panel was still new, I would occasionally get some very slight image persistence if I left a _light blue_ object on screen in the same position for several hours, but it would clear up after just 5 min of moving it / normal usage.
> 
> It no longer happens at all for whatever reason. Perhaps it is because I have replaced the generic drivers with the catleap extreme, and then the x-star specific drivers. Perhaps it is because my room is now air conditioned. Perhaps it just needed time to "break in" somehow. Whatever.
> 
> Now, when I got my panel, it didn't have any noticeable backlight bleed or stuck/dead pixels. The stand however was crooked, causing the panel to lean about 5 degrees to the right. The panel itself was also just slightly too low in the frame, causing the lower bezel to butt right up against the bottom row of pixels, and partially obscuring them if looking at it from a low enough angle. I've ghetto "fixed" the stand by stacking some coins under one side. The bottom row of pixels wasn't really a big enough issue to bother me.
> 
> I've since moved, and the monitor got bumped around a bit. Somewhere along the way, the panel slipped a bit further down in the frame. The bottom row is completely obscured, second row of pixels is half obscured, and there is a tiny bit of bleed on the bottom left corner. It doesn't really bother me too much, since I always planned on replacing the stand, and that would require me to open the bezel anyway to remove the original stand (and thus give me a good opportunity to fix the panel position).
> 
> Speaking of replacing the stand, I just ordered 3 Ergotron LX Sit-Stand wall arms. I'll be mounting the X-Star to one, and two older panels to the others. I'll report back again when I've done that.
> 
> The last thing I have to mention is that I also persuaded my GF and one of my good friends to pick up the same panels. Both love them. Neither has had any issues. That makes a 3/3 with no issues from long term overclocking in my personal experience.
> I got this once or twice, from messing with DVI inputs on different GPUs when my PSU blew and I was trying to diagnose the system. Fully powering off both the system and the panel fixed it for me.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*


Looks like you goofed with the quote system. Anyway, I managed to find this:

"Did any of the 3 of them ordered did u get the perfect pixel versions?? I ordered mine the other day and just got the regular version"

My answer would be yes, two of the three were "Pixel Perfect", but the third was not, and all 3 came from different ebay sellers.

If there was another question in there that I missed, let me know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am debezeling my monitor for a triple setup, and search for a way, to permantly, but not forever, mount the PCB Box to the Panel.
> It should come off when forcing it with much power, but should be strong enough to hold it secure 24/7.
> 
> I bought this double sided tape, do you think that this is enough?


I would NOT count on that tape alone. It doesn't look nearly strong enough. In fact, the only tapes that I would really trust are basically permanent and have the same issues as glues when it comes to removal. I suggest you find another way to attach your PCB box.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just checking in. One of the first X-Star owners on OCN AFAIK. The X-Star unboxing pics on the first page of this thread are mine for whatever that is worth.
> 
> I've been running the panel at mostly 96hz. I can push it to about 130, but I sometimes (not every day, but some days, and the days it happens, it happens maybe once or twice every 15 min) get scan lines at anything 120 or higher.
> 
> I haven't really discovered what determines if I will get scan lines on a given day, but I haven't really tried since it works perfectly 100% of the time at 96hz, and colors start getting too shifted to completely compensate for when you go over 110 or so. I also tend to get rapidly diminishing returns once I go over 100hz or so, due in part to my 680 not being able to push more frames than that in demanding games, and also to the inherent time it takes for the actual pixel transitions, and of course just my own human reaction time.
> 
> Basically, 96 is a pretty sweet spot for these panels, at least for my setup.
> 
> I haven't had any kind of degradation of the panel itself in the year and a half I've had it. Overclocked almost 24/7 since I got it, and actively running at least 3/4 of that time.
> 
> When the panel was still new, I would occasionally get some very slight image persistence if I left a _light blue_ object on screen in the same position for several hours, but it would clear up after just 5 min of moving it / normal usage.
> 
> It no longer happens at all for whatever reason. Perhaps it is because I have replaced the generic drivers with the catleap extreme, and then the x-star specific drivers. Perhaps it is because my room is now air conditioned. Perhaps it just needed time to "break in" somehow. Whatever.
> 
> Now, when I got my panel, it didn't have any noticeable backlight bleed or stuck/dead pixels. The stand however was crooked, causing the panel to lean about 5 degrees to the right. The panel itself was also just slightly too low in the frame, causing the lower bezel to butt right up against the bottom row of pixels, and partially obscuring them if looking at it from a low enough angle. I've ghetto "fixed" the stand by stacking some coins under one side. The bottom row of pixels wasn't really a big enough issue to bother me.
> 
> I've since moved, and the monitor got bumped around a bit. Somewhere along the way, the panel slipped a bit further down in the frame. The bottom row is completely obscured, second row of pixels is half obscured, and there is a tiny bit of bleed on the bottom left corner. It doesn't really bother me too much, since I always planned on replacing the stand, and that would require me to open the bezel anyway to remove the original stand (and thus give me a good opportunity to fix the panel position).
> 
> Speaking of replacing the stand, I just ordered 3 Ergotron LX Sit-Stand wall arms. I'll be mounting the X-Star to one, and two older panels to the others. I'll report back again when I've done that.
> 
> The last thing I have to mention is that I also persuaded my GF and one of my good friends to pick up the same panels. Both love them. Neither has had any issues. That makes a 3/3 with no issues from long term overclocking in my personal experience.
> I got this once or twice, from messing with DVI inputs on different GPUs when my PSU blew and I was trying to diagnose the system. Fully powering off both the system and the panel fixed it for me
> 
> 
> .


Thanks for that update. Any details about these drivers (catleap/qnix) you speak of and what advantages they have vs not installing them?


----------



## treysonn88

i tried shutting down and turning off and booting it all back up... no luck! any other ideas? anyone?


----------



## treysonn88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> You didn't get here by pushing the buttons, this happens when the monitor doesn't have a signal. Check your cable connections. I would check the connection at the monitor first, since pushing the buttons may have shifted the monitor, moving the cable.


i checked, and double checked, took everything apart and shut down and stated all back up, plugging in as if for the first time... no luck! Other ideas? Anyone else?


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treysonn88*
> 
> i checked, and double checked, took everything apart and shut down and stated all back up, plugging in as if for the first time... no luck! Other ideas? Anyone else?


I'm getting this (red,blue, white etc testscreens) when booting up into Linux; not sure why but I guess this is a driver issue in my case.


----------



## treysonn88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> I'm getting this (red,blue, white etc testscreens) when booting up into Linux; not sure why but I guess this is a driver issue in my case.


It seemed to me that could be an issue, but like I said, it worked fine for over an hour. I don't think it would work, period, if the drivers were wrong/bad. Interesting ...


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treysonn88*
> 
> It seemed to me that could be an issue, but like I said, it worked fine for over an hour. I don't think it would work, period, if the drivers were wrong/bad. Interesting ...


Have you tried another monitor? As I said before, the only time I've heard of this screen coming up, is when the monitor isn't getting a signal from the video card. In Linux, I've seen this in sleep mode, In windows, I've only seen it with a bad connection, though I suppose a bad driver could cause the same issue. You haven't specifically said, but I take it you don't get a normal picture on start-up, which would eliminate the bad drive idea.


----------



## hammelgammler

Bought a third Qnix from red-cap.

The first two had no dead/stuck pixel, hopefully the third has also none...

Debezeling the other two is in progress, I hope its enough how i straightened the metal frame to reduce backlight bleeding to a minimum. That would be cool.









I went with a mix of glossy and matt paint for the bezel, as i think pure matt is a bit too grey?

Here some shots.







What do you think?


----------



## treysonn88

Unfortunately, yes... I have tried it with two other, different monitors with no problem. I'm still looking.


----------



## Zero4549

Yeah if a full power cycle didn't work, you have a bad connection. Try a different DVI cable. If that doesn't work, you might need to open it up and look for something broken.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treysonn88*
> 
> Unfortunately, yes... I have tried it with two other, different monitors with no problem. I'm still looking.


Have you tried the monitor on a different computer? The dvi connection on the monitor can be very picky, Have you tried moving the cable around while its connected?


----------



## Nick0602

Just got mine (single input), ordered from an italian shop with dropshipping.
South Korea - Italy in 4 days (weekend included), 28.77€ of duty fees if you want to add this in the OP.

Ordered the standard version, just 1 dead pixel and no other issues so far (at least, I hope). Will try to calibrate/oc asap


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey whats up everyone,i need some help picking out a new 1440p.Im leaning towards the Qnix but there are many versions nd dont know which to get,i have read about the multi input and how it doesnt overclock or anything or some other stuff. then you have the regular with 1 input which is dvi,which brings me to my GPU,i dont wanna purchase one and my GPU doesnt support it.I currently have a Nvidia GTX 580 and it has a dvi(dont know which kind cuz i kno there are many) and a mini hdmi port(use) and i play on a playstation 3d display.which btw can anyone give me insight on this monitor i use. i find the graphics of my games to be sharp and smoothe but im no expert. and last but not least,what do you guys think of this monitor thats about to release http://overlordcomputer.com/products/tempest-x270oc-glossy please let me know


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey whats up everyone,i need some help picking out a new 1440p.Im leaning towards the Qnix but there are many versions nd dont know which to get,i have read about the multi input and how it doesnt overclock or anything or some other stuff. then you have the regular with 1 input which is dvi,which brings me to my GPU,i dont wanna purchase one and my GPU doesnt support it.I currently have a Nvidia GTX 580 and it has a dvi(dont know which kind cuz i kno there are many) and a mini hdmi port(use) and i play on a playstation 3d display.which btw can anyone give me insight on this monitor i use. i find the graphics of my games to be sharp and smoothe but im no expert. and last but not least,what do you guys think of this monitor thats about to release http://overlordcomputer.com/products/tempest-x270oc-glossy please let me know


My first thought was it's an over priced Qnix, my second though was that it was false advertising, since it's not out yet,(unless it came out last November, I don't see a date on the page you linked) and there are others out that can overclock up to 120hz. As for your video card, your dvi should be (by nvidia specs) a dual link, so should be able to run the Qnix monitor.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey whats up everyone,i need some help picking out a new 1440p.Im leaning towards the Qnix but there are many versions nd dont know which to get,i have read about the multi input and how it doesnt overclock or anything or some other stuff. then you have the regular with 1 input which is dvi,which brings me to my GPU,i dont wanna purchase one and my GPU doesnt support it.I currently have a Nvidia GTX 580 and it has a dvi(dont know which kind cuz i kno there are many) and a mini hdmi port(use) and i play on a playstation 3d display.which btw can anyone give me insight on this monitor i use. i find the graphics of my games to be sharp and smoothe but im no expert. and last but not least,what do you guys think of this monitor thats about to release http://overlordcomputer.com/products/tempest-x270oc-glossy please let me know


wow that monitor u linked looks really sexy... the stand alone makes it look better and that may be it... its also glossy so you can sit next to your window or anything. i do like how its call OVERLORD though


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> My first thought was it's an over priced Qnix, my second though was that it was false advertising, since it's not out yet,(unless it came out last November, I don't see a date on the page you linked) and there are others out that can overclock up to 120hz. As for your video card, your dvi should be (by nvidia specs) a dual link, so should be able to run the Qnix monitor.


sweet,glad to know it will support that specific dvi. might also be upgrading my gpu with the 900 series(maybe) but what are the chances of them ditching dvi you think? they might just stick with hdmi and displayport,not sure. anyway,that monitor comes out this november and says it will be shipped in november as its up for preorder.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> wow that monitor u linked looks really sexy... the stand alone makes it look better and that may be it... its also glossy so you can sit next to your window or anything. i do like how its call OVERLORD though


i dont like the name tbh but its ok. but which is a better buy,this overlord one,or the qnix/xstar? i hear really good things about the qnix but not too sure about the true 10 multi version of qnix tbh. im gonna order by this weekend once the new gpu are revealed


----------



## darthdirty

ya im excited about the new Nvidia cards im currently running a 4gb 680, cant wait. i know this isnt the tread for it, but i dont know if i should wait for the Ti version to come out


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> ya im excited about the new Nvidia cards im currently running a 4gb 680, cant wait. i know this isnt the tread for it, but i dont know if i should wait for the Ti version to come out


you should wait bro tbh,you got plenty of more juice to squeeze outta that card.its more of a WANT than a NEEd in your case. as for me,i kinda NEED a new one especially if i go into 1440p with 1.5gb ram.you have 4gb and plenty of life left on that thing.which mon itor do you use btw?


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> you should wait bro tbh,you got plenty of more juice to squeeze outta that card.its more of a WANT than a NEEd in your case. as for me,i kinda NEED a new one especially if i go into 1440p with 1.5gb ram.you have 4gb and plenty of life left on that thing.which mon itor do you use btw?


i just ordered the Matt X-STAR DP2710LED PLS Panel WQHD 2560x1440 27inch it says it will get here on the 21st -25th. i talked to the guy and he said it wouldnt ship until wednesday but it shipped last night while i was sleeping so im hoping Saturday


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> sweet,glad to know it will support that specific dvi. might also be upgrading my gpu with the 900 series(maybe) but what are the chances of them ditching dvi you think? they might just stick with hdmi and displayport,not sure. anyway,that monitor comes out this november and says it will be shipped in november as its up for preorder.


Preview pictures of the GTX 970 and 980 show one DVI port, then several HDMI and displayport.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i dont like the name tbh but its ok. but which is a better buy,this overlord one,or the qnix/xstar? i hear really good things about the qnix but not too sure about the true 10 multi version of qnix tbh. im gonna order by this weekend once the new gpu are revealed


The True 10 doesn't overclock properly from what I've read on this forum. If you're interested in OCing, your much better of with the single input (DVI-DL) version.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Just ordered a single DVI input model, will report how long it takes to get here but purchase price was £208 initially.


----------



## Nick0602

So, I tried to oc my QX2710 single input.
I discovered that I can't get to 120Hz since I'm getting artifacts and green lines when I restart the video drivers, but at 96Hz it seems quite stable.

Nothing to say about the image quality, really happy and satisfied, still trying to find my favourite preset though


----------



## darthdirty

i know this has probably been asked before but does OC shorten the life span of my monitor???


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Got the monitor in after some serious problems with fedex and FCC forms that were apparently filled out by my shipper. Then fedex korea wasn't communicating with fedex US so i was getting several calls. That was really annoying.

Anyways, i'm having a somewhat odd simple problem. The silver screw for the base will screw fine into the monitor stand. But if i try to screw it on with the base attached on the bottom it doesn't seem to catch anything and won't actually screw into it even if i use some pressure. Any ideas on why this is happening?


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Got the monitor in after some serious problems with fedex and FCC forms that were apparently filled out by my shipper. Then fedex korea wasn't communicating with fedex US so i was getting several calls. That was really annoying.
> 
> Anyways, i'm having a somewhat odd simple problem. The silver screw for the base will screw fine into the monitor stand. But if i try to screw it on with the base attached on the bottom it doesn't seem to catch anything and won't actually screw into it even if i use some pressure. Any ideas on why this is happening?


what seller did u use? and when did u order it?


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

I used an amazon seller called stylebang and i ordered it last wednesday. I was annoyed with them because i thought it was going to take another week to get to me because of problems on their side but apparently it somehow got to me today so i don't really care anymore. I just for the love of me can't figure out why this screw won't screw into the stand.

The seller was very sorry and was trying to do everything they could so i had no reason to get too mad but it was a very odd and confusing process.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> The silver screw for the base will screw fine into the monitor stand. But if i try to screw it on with the base attached on the bottom it doesn't seem to catch anything and won't actually screw into it even if i use some pressure. Any ideas on why this is happening?


Take pictures of the screw, the bottom of the base, and the bottom of the stand neck. Close up macro shots please. Can't speculate until we see what your seeing.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

I'll take one myself in a little bit but here is exactly what it is.

http://cdn.overclock.net/1/17/500x1000px-LL-17ed8868_IMG_20130401_1456311.jpeg

The base sits of the monitor sits in the stand "well" or whatever you want to call it and there is a silver screw you screw from the bottom of the base. It's super super simple and the screw without the base will screw into the base of the monitor but when i put on the base and screw from the bottom it just doesn't want to do anything.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah I'm well aware of the setup, but I am not sure if its because the screw is too short or if the counter-sunk nut was inserted too deep. I could fix it in a jiffy, but if you can't fix it yourself contact the seller and see if they will give you a small refund amount so you can buy an aftermarket stand for it. OR, see if they have stands, maybe they will send one to you?


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Another question sorry, I followed the overclocking guide, downloaded the qnix drivers and everything and tried following the recommended timings for 120hz then also tried using default settings and seeing how high i could go on that. I have a default settings one at 96 hz and a 120 hz with lowered timings.

when i run this though while im on my 96Hz setting.

http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

I get 60fps at 60Hz...?

Oh and also, I'm a decently handy guy but i don't understand what the hell is causing it to not catch. There is only like 1mm of plastic then a 1mm space and the screw should easily be catching.

Here is my settings im using



http://imgur.com/JeF3k


I installed the qnix driver that you have to use to get over 60Hz and it is now recognized as a qnix. I setup a custom profile in NvCP at 96Hz. I restarted and nothing.

If i do run stock settings at 120 Hz i do get artifacting which should mean it's working but then the testufo.com says im only at 60Hz?

Edit again: After looking around and following a youtube video exactly the test on ufo might be messing up. Ingame dota 2 client says im at 120fps, fraps says im at 120fps on cs:go. So i think im at 120fps?


----------



## freezer2k

Hi,

Think I just made an amazing discovery.

Wanted to drive my Qnix via my low power Intel system, which only has the HDMI output of the integrated Haswell graphics.

Played for hours in Windows, but never could get above 165MHz Pixel Clock, which equates to about 40Hz @ QHD resolution.

Then I booted up Linux, and after adding the [email protected] modeline via xrandr it was working immediately!

I'm using a cheap HDMI -> DVI cable.

The Linux driver is limited at 300MHz PixelClock for Haswell.

I was able to patch the Linux kernel to lift this 300Mhz limit. At 85Hz I get a lot of graphic errors though.

Ordered an HQ cable from Amazon and will see how it goes.

This is basically driving it via DVI Single link, as HDMI only uses one link.

So why is everyone saying single link is not possible?
I'm sure it won't go to 120Hz, but it looks like 80Hz+ is definitely possible.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> i know this has probably been asked before but does OC shorten the life span of my monitor???


No, there's no indication at this point that it shortens the lifespan of the monitor.


----------



## Sourcesys

What is the best way of fixing alot of BLB? back the screws out a little?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> i just ordered the Matt X-STAR DP2710LED PLS Panel WQHD 2560x1440 27inch it says it will get here on the 21st -25th. i talked to the guy and he said it wouldnt ship until wednesday but it shipped last night while i was sleeping so im hoping Saturday


what held you back from the qnix if i may ask?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Preview pictures of the GTX 970 and 980 show one DVI port, then several HDMI and displayport.
> The True 10 doesn't overclock properly from what I've read on this forum. If you're interested in OCing, your much better of with the single input (DVI-DL) version.


thank you,a proper answer.so i should indeed get the single input version,right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Just ordered a single DVI input model, will report how long it takes to get here but purchase price was £208 initially.


where did you order and from who if i may ask?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sourcesys*
> 
> What is the best way of fixing alot of BLB? back the screws out a little?


i wanna kno the same thing bro,so that when i get mine,ill go straight to it.you think if i order it,it will have it?or should i try turning it on to test?


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> what held you back from the qnix if i may ask?
> thank you,a proper answer.so i should indeed get the single input version,right?
> where did you order and from who if i may ask?


well to be honest ive been told its the same monitor and i like the name X-Star better than Qnix... i know lame reasons


----------



## Sourcesys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i wanna kno the same thing bro,so that when i get mine,ill go straight to it.you think if i order it,it will have it?or should i try turning it on to test?


Im absolutly clueless, I thought my QNIX didnt had any BLB at all, but after I made a Photo of it I was shown otherwise, so now I have 2 Problems:

1. Why would I fix BLB if I dont see it until I use a camera? It seems not to affect normale use at all.
2. HOW to fix BLB the best way?

I hope someone can help me out on this, also ordered a second QNIX.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i wanna kno the same thing bro,so that when i get mine,ill go straight to it.you think if i order it,it will have it?or should i try turning it on to test?


A lot have little to no BLB, so definitely test first. I have three, and if any have BLB, I can't see it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sourcesys*
> 
> Im absolutly clueless, I thought my QNIX didnt had any BLB at all, but after I made a Photo of it I was shown otherwise, so now I have 2 Problems:
> 
> 1. Why would I fix BLB if I dont see it until I use a camera? It seems not to affect normale use at all.
> 2. HOW to fix BLB the best way?
> 
> I hope someone can help me out on this, also ordered a second QNIX.


1. If you can't see it, and it doesn't affect normal use, don't waste your time and effort (and take the chance of breaking something) trying to fix it.
2. First off, not all BLB is fixable. Fixable BLB is caused by pressure on the display, either from the frame being bent, or the bezel pushing on it. So, taking apart the monitor, straightening the metal frame, and finding/fixing any pinching from the bezel seems to be the best way to fix it. There are several posts in this thread that discuss this.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> where did you order and from who if i may ask?


Right here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121256076370?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## darthdirty

where is everyone???


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sourcesys*
> 
> Im absolutly clueless, I thought my QNIX didnt had any BLB at all, but after I made a Photo of it I was shown otherwise, so now I have 2 Problems:
> 
> 1. Why would I fix BLB if I dont see it until I use a camera? It seems not to affect normale use at all.
> 2. HOW to fix BLB the best way?
> 
> I hope someone can help me out on this, also ordered a second QNIX.


As Roland said, there is no reason to fix it if it isn't bothering you. So, I wouldn't put any effort into it.


----------



## QuickFix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> where is everyone???


Out working to pay for these fantastic Korean monitors. I'm running 3 myself @ 7680x1440.









Great for gaming, provided you've got a computer with enough horsepower to support them. No ghosting or hesitation at all. I'm able to run with settings maxed in most games.


----------



## Sourcesys

Ok, thats what I thought, thank guys.


----------



## darthdirty

ya still waiting for mine to get here... i hate bezels(not sure if thats how u spell it) so i game on one monitor and have a second to watch movies while i play... dont know if i will ever buy a second one, but it sounds sexy


----------



## hammelgammler

Hey guys.
What do you think is the best angle for the side monitors when gaming or doing office stuff?









Im near to finish my setup, but the maximum angle i get with the stand is ~23°, which seems a bit low for me... :/

Third one start getting prepared tomorrow.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hammelgammler*
> 
> Hey guys.
> What do you think is the best angle for the side monitors when gaming or doing office stuff?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im near to finish my setup, but the maximum angle i get with the stand is ~23°, which seems a bit low for me... :/
> 
> Third one start getting prepared tomorrow.


Mine are around 23 deg also.


----------



## Phantatsy

Anyone know who the best seller to buy a QNIX QX2710 from is?
I've already purchased one, but it had (4?) dead pixels from what I could tell, maybe 5. And now it doesn't want to work correctly. Trying to find out where to buy from next.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Anyone know who the best seller to buy a QNIX QX2710 from is?
> I've already purchased one, but it had (4?) dead pixels from what I could tell, maybe 5. And now it doesn't want to work correctly. Trying to find out where to buy from next.


Bought mine from dream-seller on Ebay.
Cheapest matte version listed. (http://ebay.to/1kZsWpm)
It overclocks to 120Hz with some hiccups and has 1 dead pixel and 1 stuck pixel (that's bout .000054% panel failure)

_Btw, X-Star and Qnix use the EXACT same Samsung PLS panels._


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Anyone know who the best seller to buy a QNIX QX2710 from is?
> I've already purchased one, but it had (4?) dead pixels from what I could tell, maybe 5. And now it doesn't want to work correctly. Trying to find out where to buy from next.


Where are you located?


----------



## Phantatsy

In the US.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Anyone know who the best seller to buy a QNIX QX2710 from is?
> I've already purchased one, but it had (4?) dead pixels from what I could tell, maybe 5. And now it doesn't want to work correctly. Trying to find out where to buy from next.


see,its stuff like this that makes me scared to order one.im doing research on these monitors and im leaning towards QNIX but i dont want one with your issues and not being able to return and basically losing money.i work way too hard to be "losing" money.

btw,im gonna order one as soon as i decide what to do,either buy one of these for my GTX 580 or buy the new 900 series but depends what they reveal this week,hence why im waiting until weekend.
Which one is the best version? i see they have qnix SE edition,then you have the DP multi true 10,then the evolution 2.im lost as to how many versions there are.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> see,its stuff like this that makes me scared to order one.im doing research on these monitors and im leaning towards QNIX but i dont want one with your issues and not being able to return and basically losing money.i work way too hard to be "losing" money.
> 
> btw,im gonna order one as soon as i decide what to do,either buy one of these for my GTX 580 or buy the new 900 series but depends what they reveal this week,hence why im waiting until weekend.
> Which one is the best version? i see they have qnix SE edition,then you have the DP multi true 10,then the evolution 2.im lost as to how many versions there are.


The display was great except the pixels issue, but you could always get a "Perfect Pixel" version for that.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> see,its stuff like this that makes me scared to order one.im doing research on these monitors and im leaning towards QNIX but i dont want one with your issues and not being able to return and basically losing money.i work way too hard to be "losing" money.
> 
> btw,im gonna order one as soon as i decide what to do,either buy one of these for my GTX 580 or buy the new 900 series but depends what they reveal this week,hence why im waiting until weekend.
> Which one is the best version? i see they have qnix SE edition,then you have the DP multi true 10,then the evolution 2.im lost as to how many versions there are.


Then buy from a different seller with a better return policy, like Amazon or IPSLEDMonitors. Or make sure the seller you buy from is guaranteeing no dead pixels, even if its a slightly higher cost, then contact EBAY/PayPal and have them look at the listing and see if it qualifies for a no questions asked refund or return merchandise authorization. Check your options before committing.

Its not a crap shoot if you don't want it to be... Hell if you add the $50 extended warranty IPSLEDMonitors guarantees you will be happy or they take it back no questions asked, or send you another one for free. Even ebay offers a SquareTrade extended warranty on them.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> see,its stuff like this that makes me scared to order one.im doing research on these monitors and im leaning towards QNIX but i dont want one with your issues and not being able to return and basically losing money.i work way too hard to be "losing" money.
> 
> btw,im gonna order one as soon as i decide what to do,either buy one of these for my GTX 580 or buy the new 900 series but depends what they reveal this week,hence why im waiting until weekend.
> Which one is the best version? i see they have qnix SE edition,then you have the DP multi true 10,then the evolution 2.im lost as to how many versions there are.


i was scared to and still am to a point... just do it man... mine is in the mail right now... i got an X-Star but ive been told its the same thing.... just do it


----------



## PersianImm0rtal

I just got my screen from Newegg for 279, works great, and NO DEAD PIXELS! At least, I can't find any.

Here is my question:

*Does anyone know what "Game Mode" under Misc Menu does? I can't find anything about it.*


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PersianImm0rtal*
> 
> I just got my screen from Newegg for 279, works great, and NO DEAD PIXELS! At least, I can't find any.
> 
> Here is my question:
> 
> *Does anyone know what "Game Mode" under Misc Menu does? I can't find anything about it.*


Not enough info bud. Game Mode can be found on all sorts of devices, but you failed to tell us where you see this Game Mode setting at, and what computer, drivers, video card etc your using.


----------



## PersianImm0rtal

Sorry,

When you press the Menu button on the bottom of the monitor, it brings up a Menu, to change settings like, color, brightness, and language. Under the Misc option, there is an option to change between "Normal" and "Game Mode" When I switch to game mode the screen goes black for a second and then comes back.


----------



## PersianImm0rtal

Even the manual completely ignores this option exists in the picture and text.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PersianImm0rtal*
> 
> Sorry,
> 
> When you press the Menu button on the bottom of the monitor, it brings up a Menu, to change settings like, color, brightness, and language. Under the Misc option, there is an option to change between "Normal" and "Game Mode" When I switch to game mode the screen goes black for a second and then comes back.


Which monitor did you get? The single DVI models most people buy don't have a menu at all.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah I also have to defer to someone that has one of them multi input monitors. I never researched getting a monitor with a menu system, which only comes on the multi inputs models. With that said, Game Mode usually refers to a mode that reduces or eliminates any built in processing the monitor might be doing and sends the video cards data directly to the screen to be written. That is what it means on all the Big Screen TV's anyway, lol.

Not sure why it would have a game mode on a monitor though.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PersianImm0rtal*
> 
> I just got my screen from Newegg for 279, works great, and NO DEAD PIXELS! At least, I can't find any.
> 
> Here is my question:
> 
> *Does anyone know what "Game Mode" under Misc Menu does? I can't find anything about it.*


i went to newegg couldnt find one cheaper than 319


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PersianImm0rtal*
> 
> I just got my *screen* from Newegg for 279, works great, and NO DEAD PIXELS! At least, I can't find any.
> 
> Here is my question:
> 
> *Does anyone know what "Game Mode" under Misc Menu does? I can't find anything about it.*


What screen?


----------



## PersianImm0rtal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> i went to newegg couldnt find one cheaper than 319


It was a one or two day sale: http://slickdeals.net/f/7198514-qnix-qx2710-led-evolution-ii-multi-true10-se-monitor-2560x1440-overclockable-289-99-free-shipping-newegg?v=1


----------



## PersianImm0rtal

Sorry for the confusion, its the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE Monitor


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> i went to newegg couldnt find one cheaper than 319


He is talking about the True10, its a non overclockable multiple input model with a menu driven system. They are usually cheaper when I search for them, but not entirely sure why.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> He is talking about the True10, its a non overclockable multiple input model with a menu driven system. They are usually cheaper when I search for them, but not entirely sure why.


its funny because when Newegg had it up there it says its OC


----------



## Zero4549

I have absolutely no knowledge of the multi input QNIX model.

That said, generally speaking, when you see "game mode" or something to that effect on a monitor (which is fairly common), it simply refers to adding / increasing overdrive.


----------



## jameyscott

It's a pain if you have to talk with one of these Korean sellers.... They repeat the same question over and over again and I have to explain it three different million ways. I accidentely bought a Multi and after telling them that it doesn't overclock, they are very hesitant at trading this one out for the single input version. I'm just going to tell them if they don't exchange it, and my reasoning behind that is they clearly stated this monitor overclocks and it does not, then I will be buying two more of these elsewhere. Sold all of my VG248QEs and about to say hello to two more Koreans!







I just really hope that I can exchange that mutli for a single input model...


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> It's a pain if you have to talk with one of these Korean sellers.... They repeat the same question over and over again and I have to explain it three different million ways. I accidentely bought a Multi and after telling them that it doesn't overclock, they are very hesitant at trading this one out for the single input version. I'm just going to tell them if they don't exchange it, and my reasoning behind that is they clearly stated this monitor overclocks and it does not, then I will be buying two more of these elsewhere. Sold all of my VG248QEs and about to say hello to two more Koreans!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just really hope that I can exchange that mutli for a single input model...


Who's your seller?

Excellent Castle and Hulustar both communicated well with me. Dreamseller communicated well with my GF. Neither of us had any issued post-purchase though.


----------



## jameyscott

accessorieswhole. I sent them one last email in hopes of this issue being fixed, otherwise I'll be taking my business elsewhere!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> its funny because when Newegg had it up there it says its OC


Yes, its true everyone who has tried to overclock can to a certain extent, but it also skips every other frame. What good is it if its skipping frames? The single input DVI model doesn't do that at all. Also, the True10 overclocks on the DVI port ONLY. True10 only refers to it being a 10 bit panel, but to benefit from that you also need 10 bit sources from the program (Photoshop?) and a 10-bit certified video card (only AMD FirePro and NVIDIA Quadro support 10-bit color accuracy). All these PLS panels support 10 bit with the proper main boards. The SE means it failed Qnix's quality assurance program but was still functional and thus is specifically targeted and sold at a lower market and reduced price, which is why you can find the SE versions at the lowest prices all day long, every day. The non-SE, non-multiport, non-True10 versions are slightly more expensive for a reason, not just because.

Still though, its a nice monitor regardless of the drawbacks.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> accessorieswhole. I sent them one last email in hopes of this issue being fixed, otherwise I'll be taking my business elsewhere!


That's where I bought mine and I'm currently trying to get my issue resolved with my display not turning on correctly. I'm pretty sure it's just the cables, but I'm not sure I can just buy new internals... :|


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> That's where I bought mine and I'm currently trying to get my issue resolved with my display not turning on correctly. I'm pretty sure it's just the cables, but I'm not sure I can just buy new internals... :|


I've finally got somewhere. Had to talk about opening am eBay case for so!ething to happen though. They've offered a full refund or a partial refumnd . I asked them about shipping back the monitor, but might just take a partial refund and a partial discount on the next purchase of two monitors.

And I might see of they can throw in a PCBfor the mutli to not make it a multi as well. I'd like to see if youcan replace the PCB and make it overclockabnle.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> i dont know how it works in the UK but i live in California, US and i didnt get charged taxes or shipping.


That's because we have free trade agreements with SK. That isn't the case for the UK.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> That's because we have free trade agreements with SK. That isn't the case for the UK.


OIC


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yes, its true everyone who has tried to overclock can to a certain extent, but it also skips every other frame. What good is it if its skipping frames? The single input DVI model doesn't do that at all. Also, the True10 overclocks on the DVI port ONLY. True10 only refers to it being a 10 bit panel, but to benefit from that you also need 10 bit sources from the program (Photoshop?) and a 10-bit certified video card (only AMD FirePro and NVIDIA Quadro support 10-bit color accuracy). All these PLS panels support 10 bit with the proper main boards. The SE means it failed Qnix's quality assurance program but was still functional and thus is specifically targeted and sold at a lower market and reduced price, which is why you can find the SE versions at the lowest prices all day long, every day. The non-SE, non-multiport, non-True10 versions are slightly more expensive for a reason, not just because.
> 
> Still though, its a nice monitor regardless of the drawbacks.


This is good info +R ... your a quick learner







I'd also link you and about 1/2 dozen others in the last 3 pages to check *THIS LINK* out ... SE explanations / True10 will OC to 85Hz without frame dropping but still has noticeable input lag ... etc etc ...
The QNIX naming conventions still bothers me a lot, as they tried to scam us with the True10 line, they're much cheaper now because they couldn't sell them thanks to this OCN thread!

On a side note ... I was really disappointed to hear your sourcing of the LG A+ panels for the Catleap LM270WQ1 have an HP anti-GLARE COATING







... if they were the "Glossy", wow you'd really be onto something. Catleap/QNIX Glossy costing $600-$700 really chaffs me now because way back when they were the same price as the Matte's


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This is good info +R ... your a quick learner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd also link you and about 1/2 dozen others in the last 3 pages to check *THIS LINK* out ... SE explanations / True10 will OC to 85Hz without frame dropping but still has noticeable input lag ... etc etc ...
> The QNIX naming conventions still bothers me a lot, as they tried to scam us with the True10 line, they're much cheaper now because they couldn't sell them thanks to this OCN thread!
> 
> On a side note ... I was really disappointed to hear your sourcing of the LG A+ panels for the Catleap LM270WQ1 have an HP anti-GLARE COATING
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... if they were the "Glossy", wow you'd really be onto something. Catleap/QNIX Glossy costing $600-$700 really chaffs me now because way back when they were the same price as the Matte's


Haha thanks Tom, yeah I'm not that thrilled about the anti-glare either simply because I do not know the level of it and can't really find decent reviews of the original HP Z1. However, brand spanking new grade A panel for $120 is just too good to pass up imo. There are panels much more expensive with cracked screens costing more. So, if I throw on LG certified single input boards and build my own power supply for it I should be in the $200-$240 range, not counting my time and any extra materials I may need. My problem is I do not want to spend $300 for a inferior plastic bezel, crap wobbly stand that I will undoubtedly replace, crap power supply and these boards that seem to go bad quite frequently. If it was say LG, Samsung, BenQ, HP, Asus, or Dell Quality monitors for $300, or even $350 I would go this route in a heartbeat.

However, with the level of modding skills I posses, and the 30+ years of electronics work, and the sheer amount of shop tools I have access to, I see no reason why I can't try building a working monitor setup myself using grade A parts. It may not look as pretty when I'm finished with it, haha, but the PQ should be much better than my 8 year old Dell TN panel. Well see how it goes. I'm not so great with build logs, but I will try to document the whole experience.

I wonder what the anti-glare coating is and how it is applied? Maybe, it is somehow removable, or replaceable? I mean the screens are a bunch of layers just sitting on top of each other, right? Hmm...


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Haha thanks Tom, yeah I'm not that thrilled about the anti-glare either simply because I do not know the level of it and can't really find decent reviews of the original HP Z1. However, brand spanking new grade A panel for $120 is just too good to pass up imo. There are panels much more expensive with cracked screens costing more. So, if I throw on LG certified single input boards and build my own power supply for it I should be in the $200-$240 range, not counting my time and any extra materials I may need. My problem is I do not want to spend $300 for a inferior plastic bezel, crap wobbly stand that I will undoubtedly replace, crap power supply and these boards that seem to go bad quite frequently. If it was say LG, Samsung, BenQ, HP, Asus, or Dell Quality monitors for $300, or even $350 I would go this route in a heartbeat.
> 
> However, with the level of modding skills I posses, and the 30+ years of electronics work, and the sheer amount of shop tools I have access to, I see no reason why I can't try building a working monitor setup myself using grade A parts. It may not look as pretty when I'm finished with it, haha, but the PQ should be much better than my 8 year old Dell TN panel. Well see how it goes. I'm not so great with build logs, but I will try to document the whole experience.
> 
> I wonder what the anti-glare coating is and how it is applied? Maybe, it is somehow removable, or replaceable? I mean the screens are a bunch of layers just sitting on top of each other, right? Hmm...


Maybe you could open a little shop for the rest of us whom don't possess all the tools. Like me.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Maybe you could open a little shop for the rest of us whom don't possess all the tools. Like me.


I already have a shop, sorta have two of them, my office doubles as my electronics workshop area where I keep irons, heat guns, my glue guns, and a full ESD station. But the old garage is a near complete wood/metal workshop. When you live in a rural area far from a City and have lots of land to tend to you MUST have a workshop. I manufacture programming tools for the mobile world, mainly Kindles and Motorola devices called a "SkOrPn Factory Cable". I contacted three different LG parts suppliers last week to try and get a source to the same parts that Overlord has, but they are for the LG IPS panels, not the PLS panels (seems to be easier to get IPS and IPS main boards). My plan (last week anyway) was to build and offer bezelless, multi-screen gaming kits pre-powder coated and pre-tested to 96hz. However, very few contacts I have made are coming through for me. One guy in California instantly stopped communicating once he realized my plans (He sells monitors for a living) lol. Oh well.... I would do this but only for forum members. I HATE working with websites, with banks, with anything to do with business crap, so I won't do that. I just want to work with hardware and to build/create/modify stuff.

However, I'm not sure its even worth venturing into, it just may be a logistics nightmare and I'm prone to getting headaches, lol. Besides, I only have access to 57 new panels at a decent cost so far, and still have to pay full price on the electronics from a middleman in Australia (I want direct access to the source), plus I have not even considered where to get bulk power supplies from as of yet. So, for now this is just a personal quest to see if I can do it for myself. I don't see why not though, were talking about a very simple setup, just a panel, TCON board swap, DVI main board and a power source, and of course solving the mounting for both the DVI board (you need the DVI connector to be nice a secured to prevent possible solder breaks/cracks) and the Panel, which is completely naked in the back.

Just curious, what kind of work did you need done?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I already have a shop, sorta have two of them, my office doubles as my electronics workshop area where I keep irons, heat guns, my glue guns, and a full ESD station. But the old garage is a near complete wood/metal workshop. When you live in a rural area far from a City and have lots of land to tend to you MUST have a workshop. I manufacture programming tools for the mobile world, mainly Kindles and Motorola devices called a "SkOrPn Factory Cable". I contacted three different LG parts suppliers last week to try and get a source to the same parts that Overlord has, but they are for the LG IPS panels, not the PLS panels (seems to be easier to get IPS and IPS main boards). My plan (last week anyway) was to build and offer bezelless, multi-screen gaming kits pre-powder coated and pre-tested to 96hz. However, very few contacts I have made are coming through for me. One guy in California instantly stopped communicating once he realized my plans (He sells monitors for a living) lol. Oh well.... I would do this but only for forum members. I HATE working with websites, with banks, with anything to do with business crap, so I won't do that. I just want to work with hardware and to build/create/modify stuff.
> 
> However, I'm not sure its even worth venturing into, it just may be a logistics nightmare and I'm prone to getting headaches, lol. Besides, I only have access to 57 new panels at a decent cost so far, and still have to pay full price on the electronics from a middleman in Australia (I want direct access to the source), plus I have not even considered where to get bulk power supplies from as of yet. So, for now this is just a personal quest to see if I can do it for myself. I don't see why not though, were talking about a very simple setup, just a panel, TCON board swap, DVI main board and a power source, and of course solving the mounting for both the DVI board (you need the DVI connector to be nice a secured to prevent possible solder breaks/cracks) and the Panel, which is completely naked in the back.
> 
> Just curious, what kind of work did you need done?


As of right now. I have a panel that isn't working correctly. I'm not sure if it's the PCB or the cables, or even the display. When I turn it on all I get is a black screen that is backlit. Then it turns off.
My computer recognizes there is a display plugged in, but I get no picture.

Trying to source new cables/PCB to try and see if I can get around not buying another complete monitor.

But I also am looking into buying at least one more. In the end, I want to have the de-bezel'd.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I already have a shop, sorta have two of them, my office doubles as my electronics workshop area where I keep irons, heat guns, my glue guns, and a full ESD station. But the old garage is a near complete wood/metal workshop. When you live in a rural area far from a City and have lots of land to tend to you MUST have a workshop. I manufacture programming tools for the mobile world, mainly Kindles and Motorola devices called a "SkOrPn Factory Cable". I contacted three different LG parts suppliers last week to try and get a source to the same parts that Overlord has, but they are for the LG IPS panels, not the PLS panels (seems to be easier to get IPS and IPS main boards). My plan (last week anyway) was to build and offer bezelless, multi-screen gaming kits pre-powder coated and pre-tested to 96hz. However, very few contacts I have made are coming through for me. One guy in California instantly stopped communicating once he realized my plans (He sells monitors for a living) lol. Oh well.... I would do this but only for forum members. I HATE working with websites, with banks, with anything to do with business crap, so I won't do that. I just want to work with hardware and to build/create/modify stuff.
> 
> However, I'm not sure its even worth venturing into, it just may be a logistics nightmare and I'm prone to getting headaches, lol. Besides, I only have access to 57 new panels at a decent cost so far, and still have to pay full price on the electronics from a middleman in Australia (I want direct access to the source), plus I have not even considered where to get bulk power supplies from as of yet. So, for now this is just a personal quest to see if I can do it for myself. I don't see why not though, were talking about a very simple setup, just a panel, TCON board swap, DVI main board and a power source, and of course solving the mounting for both the DVI board (you need the DVI connector to be nice a secured to prevent possible solder breaks/cracks) and the Panel, which is completely naked in the back.
> 
> Just curious, what kind of work did you need done?


i know i would be interested in something like that,,, shipping would be a pain too.. good luck


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> i know i would be interested in something like that,,, shipping would be a pain too.. good luck


Yeah, I was originally thinking 1 panel kits, 3 panel kits and 5 panel kits. But since they are kits, the individual accepting such a kit must be capable of following directions and putting them together themselves. I can build it and test it but you simply can NOT ship it like that, lol. Each panel would obviously need to be shipped in its original shipping box, so your looking at a multi package kit that comes ready to screw pieces together, pretty much. The funny thing is I'm not even remotely interested in something like that for myself. I just see all the parts available, and all the gamers that want multi monitor debezelled gaming setups and simply can't do it themselves. So, I feel sorry for those guys who don't have the tools, the time, or the skills to feel confident in doing it right... which is why I build and ship programming cables everyday because not everyone has a soldering iron or knows how to use one.


----------



## blackmagik

Hi all!

Sorry if this was asked/debated before...
I'm confused about the Dual Link thing.
Almost every single monitor that I see on ebay (like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649) says on the description that is *Dual Link DVI*.
Is this the "not good for games" version of the Qnix monitors?

I've read in the FAQS that for games/overclocking I should get the "single input" version. Is the Dual Link DVi that?
Can you please clarify?

Thanks in advance!
BM


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackmagik*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> Sorry if this was asked/debated before...
> I'm confused about the Dual Link thing.
> Almost every single monitor that I see on ebay (like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649) says on the description that is *Dual Link DVI*.
> Is this the "not good for games" version of the Qnix monitors?
> 
> I've read in the FAQS that for games/overclocking I should get the "single input" version. Is the Dual Link DVi that?
> Can you please clarify?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> BM


They are two different things. Dual link refers to the cable, while single input (which I what you want) refers to the monitor. They are all dual link, even the multi input ones.


----------



## blackmagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> They are two different things. Dual link refers to the cable, while single input (which I what you want) refers to the monitor. They are all dual link, even the multi input ones.


Ok, so.... is the linked one for example the one I want? single input?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackmagik*
> 
> Ok, so.... is the linked one for example the one I want? single input?


Yes, that's one. But for that price I'd get one of the ultimate perfect pixel models, like this one:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/321376073626?nav=SEARCH


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Yes, that's one. But for that price I'd get one of the ultimate perfect pixel models, like this one:
> 
> http://m.ebay.com/itm/321376073626?nav=SEARCH


Is there a difference between that and this one that I have bookmarked for when I get cash? http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Is there a difference between that and this one that I have bookmarked for when I get cash? http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI


Looks the same to me.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Is there another way to determine if my overclock is working? I keep using http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

but it says that im 60fps and 60Hz but i feel as if i did my overclock right.


----------



## stingray1337

Anyone else get SLI Limit 2 registry value not found while using the new 344.11 drivers? Maybe we dont need it anymore but im just wondering.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Is there a difference between that and this one that I have bookmarked for when I get cash? http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI


Only difference would be the pixel policy. The ultimate perfect pixel models guarantee no dead pixels at all, but the regular perfect pixel ones can sometimes still have dead pixels (depending on the seller) .


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Only difference would be the pixel policy. The ultimate perfect pixel models guarantee no dead pixels at all, but the regular perfect pixel ones can sometimes still have dead pixels (depending on the seller) .


be careful to get the *ultimate*

The policy states that perfect pixel monitors have no more than one dead in center and 5 dead in the side.

It's a waste of $$ to order perfect pixel.

ultimate is the only one with no dead pixels


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> be careful to get the *ultimate*
> 
> The policy states that perfect pixel monitors have no more than one dead in center and 5 dead in the side.
> 
> It's a waste of $$ to order perfect pixel.
> 
> ultimate is the only one with no dead pixels


I am def. going to make a note of that for when I go to purchase my other ones. Dead pixels bother my OCD.


----------



## spiderxjz82

So, monitor took only 72 hours to arrive from Korea into the UK!!

Not bad, got hit with £45 customs, so in total it cost me £209 + £45 = £254



http://imgur.com/Zao9p


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> So, monitor took only 72 hours to arrive from Korea into the UK!!
> 
> Not bad, got hit with £45 customs, so in total it cost me £209 + £45 = £254
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Zao9p


Yeah not too bad. And congrats on the fast delivery, so just think of the customs fee's as the overnight delivery charge, lol. Box is in great shape too


----------



## jameyscott

Update. They are willing to eat the shipping cost if they take it back and it doesn't over clock. If it does ten they will charge me for return shipping.

Obviously it will "over clock" but it's going to skip frames. Ugh what to do what to do.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I am def. going to make a note of that for when I go to purchase my other ones. Dead pixels bother my OCD.


I bought a pixel perfect one from amazon and it has 0 dead pixels. It was 30$ more but i'm a bit OCD.

Bump on that overclock comment if anyone knows. I think i overclocked correctly but the ufo test is only showing 60fps and 60Hz.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I bought a pixel perfect one from amazon and it has 0 dead pixels. It was 30$ more but i'm a bit OCD.
> 
> Bump on that overclock comment if anyone knows. I think i overclocked correctly but the ufo test is only showing 60fps and 60Hz.


Thing is you got luck of the draw pixel perfect is nothing more than a guarantee of maybe 1 dead in the middle and up to 5 on the side. Many people have gotten regular ones with zero dead pixels and perfect pixel ones with a dead pixel. The only way to guarantee no dead pixels is to get the ultimate pixel perfect.

If you had gotten a dead pixel there would have been no recourse to return your monitor.


----------



## Qpix

Hello everyone!
I'm joining the club. Got a QX2710 LED Evolution II SE from accesorieswhole.
It has a static blue line of stuck pixel on the right side of the panel, about one inch from the bezel. It's not very visible so I settled for a 50% ($170) refund. At that price I think it's a keeper. Can OC to 120hz no problem no frame skipping. Managed 140hz but didnt wanna push it too hard so I usually keep it to 60hz on desktop and 96 for gaming.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Thing is you got luck of the draw pixel perfect is nothing more than a guarantee of maybe 1 dead in the middle and up to 5 on the side. Many people have gotten regular ones with zero dead pixels and perfect pixel ones with a dead pixel. The only way to guarantee no dead pixels is to get the ultimate pixel perfect.
> 
> If you had gotten a dead pixel there would have been no recourse to return your monitor.


You're right. I ordered a non-pixel perfect and received one with (0) dead pixels.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

What I want to see is a Ultimate Perfect Pixel that has a FREE exchange setup, so you can send it back easily without paying a dime out of pocket. Plus, cross shipping, which isn't difficult to setup. Once the seller see's the package was scanned, they then ship you another one.

This is why I want to build my own monitor in house, instead of purchasing from a far far away galaxy, err country... I'd love to see a Ultimate Perfect Pixel on Amazon though, lol.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qpix*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I'm joining the club. Got a QX2710 LED Evolution II SE from accesorieswhole.
> It has a static blue line of stuck pixel on the right side of the panel, about one inch from the bezel. It's not very visible so I settled for a 50% ($170) refund. At that price I think it's a keeper. Can OC to 120hz no problem no frame skipping. Managed 140hz but didnt wanna push it too hard so I usually keep it to 60hz on desktop and 96 for gaming.


Welcome to the forums


----------



## spiderxjz82

So, got it all setup, quite happily does 110, won't quite get to 120 though as I get green lines even with tightened timings. I'll leave it at 110 for now.

Question though, why do all the online tests like the UFO ones still show 60Hz, is that a limitation of the test? And how do I actually tell what I'm running?


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> So, got it all setup, quite happily does 110, won't quite get to 120 though as I get green lines even with tightened timings. I'll leave it at 110 for now.
> 
> Question though, why do all the online tests like the UFO ones still show 60Hz, is that a limitation of the test? And how do I actually tell what I'm running?


Ya this is exactly what is throwing me off. I think I did my overclock right but it's showign 60fps and 60Hz for me on the ufo test. MY oc without changings any of the timings is about 110.

And the buyer that I got it from on amazon said there would be no dead pixels.


----------



## Forceman

Which browser are you two using?


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

I read that firefox is twitchy so i tried both firefox and chrome and get the same results of 60 fps 60Hz.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Haha thanks Tom, yeah I'm not that thrilled about the anti-glare either simply because I do not know the level of it and can't really find decent reviews of the original HP Z1. However, brand spanking new grade A panel for $120 is just too good to pass up imo. There are panels much more expensive with cracked screens costing more. So, if I throw on LG certified single input boards and build my own power supply for it I should be in the $200-$240 range, not counting my time and any extra materials I may need. My problem is I do not want to spend $300 for a inferior plastic bezel, crap wobbly stand that I will undoubtedly replace, crap power supply and these boards that seem to go bad quite frequently. If it was say LG, Samsung, BenQ, HP, Asus, or Dell Quality monitors for $300, or even $350 I would go this route in a heartbeat.
> 
> However, with the level of modding skills I posses, and the 30+ years of electronics work, and the sheer amount of shop tools I have access to, I see no reason why I can't try building a working monitor setup myself using grade A parts. It may not look as pretty when I'm finished with it, haha, but the PQ should be much better than my 8 year old Dell TN panel. Well see how it goes. I'm not so great with build logs, but I will try to document the whole experience.
> 
> I wonder what the anti-glare coating is and how it is applied? Maybe, it is somehow removable, or replaceable? I mean the screens are a bunch of layers just sitting on top of each other, right? Hmm...


Yea I know what you mean, I was in the same dilemma ... but with your skills I think you'll be OK with a QNIX Samsung PLS A- panel ... the panel itself rarely fails, it is usually the PCB or loose (broken solder) connections.
OR You could pick one up on Ebay used/like new for $225-$260, just make sure the guy promises/guarantees the condition (pixels/overclock etc) and has a 100% feedback rating. Your covered by the Ebay money back guarantee, a very buyer friendly policy. At worst it would cost you $20 return shipping Local US ... OR just get a Square Trade policy!

Note: I got a Like New on Ebay (private party) No Dead Pixels / minimal BLB / 130+Hz OC originally from Green-Sum ... $225/$15 ship









As far as removing the AG coating on the LG panels, ... it's not that difficult with skills/tools ... check *HERE* and *HERE*









Quote:
_Surprisingly, this particular model doesn't even have that strong of a matte film. *Surely not as bad as those found on a lot of LG's IPS displays.* You can actually see through this film fairly well. Others I have seen are more difficult to see through.
_
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Is there another way to determine if my overclock is working? I keep using http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping
> 
> but it says that im 60fps and 60Hz but i feel as if i did my overclock right.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I bought a pixel perfect one from amazon and it has 0 dead pixels. It was 30$ more but i'm a bit OCD.
> 
> Bump on that overclock comment if anyone knows. I think i overclocked correctly but the ufo test is only showing 60fps and 60Hz.
Click to expand...

Testufo can be pretty finicky and is known for returning errors







Make sure your using Chrome as your browser.
OR try a fast twitch shooter or any fast action game your familiar with ... run it for awhile @ 60Hz then go to your OC 110Hz-120Hz and I guarantee you'll feel the difference ...

ALSO you can try an older FPS like Counter Strike or Bad Co 2 where with your setup you know you can push 120fps and where you can set your refresh rate (96-120Hz) in the game menu. Then put vSync ON, run fraps and see if your FPS is syncing with your refresh rate (Hz) ... you can try it with newer games also but you may have to turn down some settings to pull constant fps to match your refresh (OC) settings









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Update. They are willing to eat the shipping cost if they take it back and it doesn't over clock. If it does ten they will charge me for return shipping.
> 
> Obviously it will "over clock" but it's going to skip frames. Ugh what to do what to do.


This is not good ... especially now that certain True10's have proven to OC up to 85Hz without frame dropping ...
see *HERE*








DigitalForce and another user did pull off a paid return with some serious "bard" skills, but that was before the now proven scenario (85Hz) OC ...
Start *HERE* ... lots of user frustration stories with the True10 and returns ... or do a search "within this thread" for *True10 return*


----------



## nicodemus

hey there!

i OC'ed my monitor to 96hz under Windows with no problem.

Does anyone know if there's a way to OC it under Linux?

Thanks!


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yea I know what you mean, I was in the same dilemma ... but with your skills I think you'll be OK with a QNIX Samsung PLS A- panel ... the panel itself rarely fails, it is usually the PCB or loose (broken solder) connections.
> OR You could pick one up on Ebay used for $225-$260, just make sure the guy promises/guarantees the condition (pixels/overclock etc) and has a 100% feedback rating. Your covered by the Ebay money back guarantee, a very buyer friendly policy. At worst it would cost you $20 return shipping Local US ... OR just get a Square Trade policy!
> 
> As far as removing the AG coating on the LG panels, ... it's not that difficult with skills/tools ... check *HERE* and *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> _Surprisingly, this particular model doesn't even have that strong of a matte film. *Surely not as bad as those found on a lot of LG's IPS displays.* You can actually see through this film fairly well. Others I have seen are more difficult to see through.
> _
> Testufo can be pretty finicky and is known for returning errors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your using Chrome as your browser.
> OR try a fast twitch shooter or any fast action game your familiar with ... run it for awhile @ 60Hz then go to your OC 110Hz-120Hz and I guarantee you'll feel the difference ...
> 
> ALSO you can try an older FPS like Counter Strike or Bad Co 2 where with your setup you know you can push 120fps and where you can set your refresh rate (96-120Hz) in the game menu. Then put vSync ON, run fraps and see if your FPS is syncing with your refresh rate (Hz) ... you can try it with newer games also but you may have to turn down some settings to pull constant fps to match your refresh (OC) settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not good ... especially now that certain True10's have proven to OC up to 85Hz without frame dropping ...
> see *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DigitalForce and another user did pull off a paid return with some serious "bard" skills, but that was before the now proven scenario (85Hz) OC ...
> Start *HERE* ... lots of user frustration stories with the True10 and returns ... or do a search "within this thread" for *True10 return*


It's be a true10, just a multi. :/ eventually it'll just be an accessory monitor so I guess its not the end of the world.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yea I know what you mean, I was in the same dilemma ... but with your skills I think you'll be OK with a QNIX Samsung PLS A- panel ... the panel itself rarely fails, it is usually the PCB or loose (broken solder) connections.
> OR You could pick one up on Ebay used/like new for $225-$260, just make sure the guy promises/guarantees the condition (pixels/overclock etc) and has a 100% feedback rating. Your covered by the Ebay money back guarantee, a very buyer friendly policy. At worst it would cost you $20 return shipping Local US ... OR just get a Square Trade policy!
> 
> Note: I got a Like New on Ebay (private party) No Dead Pixels / minimal BLB / 130+Hz OC originally from Green-Sum ... $225/$15 ship
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as removing the AG coating on the LG panels, ... it's not that difficult with skills/tools ... check *HERE* and *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> _Surprisingly, this particular model doesn't even have that strong of a matte film. *Surely not as bad as those found on a lot of LG's IPS displays.* You can actually see through this film fairly well. Others I have seen are more difficult to see through._


Thanks for the Information Tom. So, you think I should NOT get the Grade A LG panel for $120 and instead just go with the Qnix for $300 or what ever it will be?

Oh and by the way, I also found out from the manufacturer LG that this panel is also the replacement for the 2012 Apple 27" displays. So its intended to fix broken HP Z1's AND Apple displays. Maybe now I will have better luck finding reviews on the display knowing this and if the AG is removable, or not. However, I now have reason to believe that this panel (SD)(DB) is NOT compatible with the PCB kits I was looking at getting. So, I may have to break down and get a Qnix PLS anyway per your recommendation (if I understood you correctly above), and hope it lasts as long as my Dell has...

Just thought maybe I could save some money and get Grade A parts out of the deal to boot, lol... I have emailed several places to confirm compatibility, so I should have my decision soon. To DIY or not to DIY, that is the question.


----------



## Dry Bonez

im ready to purchase a qnix right this very moment but need help ordering one.which one should i get? im gonna use it with a GTX 580 for now. i know not to get a true 10 multi,so which one should i get? and can someone find me a link to a trustworthy seller? oh,and i would like the pixel perfect.i am ready to order right this very moment.please and thanks...oh and concerns are welcomed. i need to get rid of my Playstation 3d display....i just finished reading its neither IPS or TN,its VA or something like that and it does 240 refresh rate.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yea I know what you mean, I was in the same dilemma ... but with your skills I think you'll be OK with a QNIX Samsung PLS A- panel ... the panel itself rarely fails, it is usually the PCB or loose (broken solder) connections.
> OR You could pick one up on Ebay used/like new for $225-$260, just make sure the guy promises/guarantees the condition (pixels/overclock etc) and has a 100% feedback rating. Your covered by the Ebay money back guarantee, a very buyer friendly policy. At worst it would cost you $20 return shipping Local US ... OR just get a Square Trade policy!
> 
> Note: I got a Like New on Ebay (private party) No Dead Pixels / minimal BLB / 130+Hz OC originally from Green-Sum ... $225/$15 ship
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as removing the AG coating on the LG panels, ... it's not that difficult with skills/tools ... check *HERE* and *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> _Surprisingly, this particular model doesn't even have that strong of a matte film. *Surely not as bad as those found on a lot of LG's IPS displays.* You can actually see through this film fairly well. Others I have seen are more difficult to see through.
> _
> Testufo can be pretty finicky and is known for returning errors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your using Chrome as your browser.
> OR try a fast twitch shooter or any fast action game your familiar with ... run it for awhile @ 60Hz then go to your OC 110Hz-120Hz and I guarantee you'll feel the difference ...
> 
> ALSO you can try an older FPS like Counter Strike or Bad Co 2 where with your setup you know you can push 120fps and where you can set your refresh rate (96-120Hz) in the game menu. Then put vSync ON, run fraps and see if your FPS is syncing with your refresh rate (Hz) ... you can try it with newer games also but you may have to turn down some settings to pull constant fps to match your refresh (OC) settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not good ... especially now that certain True10's have proven to OC up to 85Hz without frame dropping ...
> see *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DigitalForce and another user did pull off a paid return with some serious "bard" skills, but that was before the now proven scenario (85Hz) OC ...
> Start *HERE* ... lots of user frustration stories with the True10 and returns ... or do a search "within this thread" for *True10 return*


I'm getting 120fps in dota with fraps...hmmm....


----------



## dwaynedibley

Evening all.

Just wondering, does anyone know how this stacks up compared to the QNIX?
http://www.amazon.com/Acer-K272HUL-bmiidp-27-inch-Widescreen/dp/B00JB6HCIC

I've been burned by the Korean monitor lottery once, so this time I want something comparable (don't mind paying a little bit more) with a proper warranty!
Cheers!


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Evening all.
> 
> Just wondering, does anyone know how this stacks up compared to the QNIX?
> http://www.amazon.com/Acer-K272HUL-bmiidp-27-inch-Widescreen/dp/B00JB6HCIC
> 
> I've been burned by the Korean monitor lottery once, so this time I want something comparable (don't mind paying a little bit more) with a proper warranty!
> Cheers!


And I don't give a monkeys about overclocking.
My QNIX didn't last long enough for me to experience this, so you can't miss what you've never seen!


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I read that firefox is twitchy so i tried both firefox and chrome and get the same results of 60 fps 60Hz.


I had trouble with Firefox, but IE worked just fine (although I don't think it supports 120 Hz). I never tried Chrome.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> So, got it all setup, quite happily does 110, won't quite get to 120 though as I get green lines even with tightened timings. I'll leave it at 110 for now.
> 
> Question though, why do all the online tests like the UFO ones still show 60Hz, is that a limitation of the test? And how do I actually tell what I'm running?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Ya this is exactly what is throwing me off. I think I did my overclock right but it's showign 60fps and 60Hz for me on the ufo test. MY oc without changings any of the timings is about 110.
> 
> And the buyer that I got it from on amazon said there would be no dead pixels.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I had trouble with Firefox, but IE worked just fine (although I don't think it supports 120 Hz). I never tried Chrome.


Try Opera! I had issues with all browsers, except Opera. OCed to 96Hz.

If anyone interested: Single input Qnix, bought off Amazon from seller MNW Global. Ordered Thursday evening, received Monday.
Also, ordered non-pixel perfect version and received a perfect panel, no dead/stuck pixels. Many reviewers stated the same thing.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I read that firefox is twitchy so i tried both firefox and chrome and get the same results of 60 fps 60Hz.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Which browser are you two using?


I had forgotten to re-enable GPU acceleration in Chrome.

Did that, restarted machine and bingo, 110Hz!


----------



## Dry Bonez

im ready to purchase a qnix right this very moment but need help ordering one.which one should i get? im gonna use it with a GTX 580 for now. i know not to get a true 10 multi,so which one should i get? and can someone find me a link to a trustworthy seller? oh,and i would like the pixel perfect.i am ready to order right this very moment.please and thanks...oh and concerns are welcomed. i need to get rid of my Playstation 3d display....i just finished reading its neither IPS or TN,its VA or something like that and it does 240 refresh rate.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> I had forgotten to re-enable GPU acceleration in Chrome.
> 
> Did that, restarted machine and bingo, 110Hz!


Did you follow the guide on page 1? I enabled gpu acceleration and am still getting 60fps 60Hz.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> And I don't give a monkeys about overclocking.
> My QNIX didn't last long enough for me to experience this, so you can't miss what you've never seen!


That monitor looks nice especially for a name brand.


----------



## Dry Bonez

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PERFECT-PIXELS-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-27-LED-Monitor-2560x1440-for-USA-/321205794938?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac95b787a

i am about to purchase this right now.is this the right version to order for overclocking? and is this person "red-cap" credible???? please reply people.im just waiting on people to respond to purchase.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> That monitor looks nice especially for a name brand.


Thanks!
Have found one for £299 so am very tempted...


----------



## Dry Bonez

what are the longevity of these qnix monitors? its all fine and dandy for now,but realistically,whos had the for a year or more?


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> what are the longevity of these qnix monitors? its all fine and dandy for now,but realistically,whos had the for a year or more?


What do you mean realistically? What would make them break within a year?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> What do you mean realistically? What would make them break within a year?


because things of this nature dont really have long term durability.im jist saying.i know this applies with many things as well,but is there anyone on this board thats owned this for quite some time that can really legitimize this?


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

I'm here again asking for anyone's help in regards to overclocking.

I follow the guide exactly. I upload the qx2710 profile for the monitor. I use the patcher and patch whatever needs patching. I use the nvidia control panel and set it to 110 Hz.

At 120 Hz i get green lines which means that it is overclocking. I set it down to 110 where i don't get any and go test. I check ufo frame skipping and on chrome, firefox, and opera they all say i'm at 60 fps 60Hz. I have no clue if i'm overclocked or not.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> because things of this nature dont really have long term durability.im jist saying.i know this applies with many things as well,but is there anyone on this board thats owned this for quite some time that can really legitimize this?


Yes, there is a whole bunch of people, hundreds of people, maybe thousands and thousands who have had them for several years going strong. There is also a whole bunch of people who has had them go bad within minutes, or days or weeks or months, or not turn on at all straight out of the box. This thread is full of people with both positive and negative experiences.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

I hadn't used CRU yet but i downloaded it and it shows my qnix overclock at 59.950 hz...hmm something is not working correctly.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Dan it looks like everyone is out partying on Friday night. Have patience man...


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Haha, it's not so much that it's not working it's the fact that i don't get why it's not doing what it should be doing. It's like using html and css and you know what you want and you know your code should be doing something but it looks completely different and you don't know why....

Maybe someone can remote in and see what the heck im doing wrong.


----------



## darthdirty

How do u OC a browser? I use chrome on win 7 64bit


----------



## funfordcobra

Just got one in today and I can tell VERY little difference between this $300 monitor and the $900 Asus ROG swift. I HAD both until today. I Retuned the ROG with a quickness and saved $500 using this monitor. GSYNC isn't even working with 80% of SLI users with the ROG 144hz and Nvidias new drivers for the 900 series and gsync monitors are an absolute mess.

I'm happy I stumbled across this monitor.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Haha, it's not so much that it's not working it's the fact that i don't get why it's not doing what it should be doing. It's like using html and css and you know what you want and you know your code should be doing something but it looks completely different and you don't know why....
> 
> Maybe someone can remote in and see what the heck im doing wrong.


Can you post a screenshot of your Nvidia control panel settings? Do any games show you the option of 110Hz for the refresh rate? BF4, for example, should show you the higher rate as an option if it is being set correctly by the control panel.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Haha, it's not so much that it's not working it's the fact that i don't get why it's not doing what it should be doing. It's like using html and css and you know what you want and you know your code should be doing something but it looks completely different and you don't know why....
> 
> Maybe someone can remote in and see what the heck im doing wrong.


One major thing I did - restarted the machine.

That was literally the only thing I did different.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Haha, it's not so much that it's not working it's the fact that i don't get why it's not doing what it should be doing. It's like using html and css and you know what you want and you know your code should be doing something but it looks completely different and you don't know why....
> 
> Maybe someone can remote in and see what the heck im doing wrong.


Try going into the bios and clearing cmos, a full reset. Go back into windows and make sure Chrome and Opera have "Use Hardware Acceleration turned ON".

I don't know if that will work, but I swear I read somewhere that someone fought for days and it also would not work, then he reset his bios and it instantly started working. Long shot I know...


----------



## kennyparker1337

If anyone is trying to get 120Hz on their new QNIX or XSTAR then try this. It worked for me!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/23vy6vzviq5ylop/xstar_qnix_120hz_nvidia_settings.png?dl=0


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Here are my current settings.



http://imgur.com/wDQM1


Are there other games that allow me to set the refresh rate? BF3?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> Here are my current settings.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/wDQM1
> 
> 
> Are there other games that allow me to set the refresh rate? BF3?


Did you fix it or does it still not work?


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Did you fix it or does it still not work?


As far as i can tell, UFO frame skipping test still says 60fps and 60Hz. I turned on vsync in dota 2 and am getting 100+ fps but i can't notice it if it working in dota 2.


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Looking to buy a qnix for a cheap 1440p. Is this a good source?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> As far as i can tell, UFO frame skipping test still says 60fps and 60Hz. I turned on vsync in dota 2 and am getting 100+ fps but i can't notice it if it working in dota 2.


Then you're getting 60hz in the browser. But that don't mean it is 60hz in the game. If you turn on vsync and a fps meter tells you you're getting over 100fps, then you're at 110hz. If your monitor was running at 60hz and vsync is on, then your fps meter would say 60fps.

So the game seems to be running your monitors refresh at the highest fps it can staying under 110. This tells me your monitor is overclocked for gaming, but the browser webpage seems to be ignoring the settings. I'd be perfectly happy with that myself...

EDIT: And very few people have the ability to actually "see" a difference, especially in games. It is while doing something simple like dragging your mouse across a dark background screen when you can really tell. But with everything fast paced happening in games, I doubt I will see anything at all. Its just knowing that it is working that helps my OCD.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Looking to buy a qnix for a cheap 1440p. Is this a good source?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb


Do you really want the below average multi port version? Or are you needing to purchase the cheapest one? The NON SE, NON True10, the one with the single input DVI-D port is better.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Looking to buy a qnix for a cheap 1440p. Is this a good source?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Then you're getting 60hz in the browser. But that don't mean it is 60hz in the game. If you turn on vsync and a fps meter tells you you're getting over 100fps, then you're at 110hz. If your monitor was running at 60hz and vsync is on, then your fps meter would say 60fps.
> 
> So the game seems to be running your monitors refresh at the highest fps it can staying under 110. This tells me your monitor is overclocked for gaming, but the browser webpage seems to be ignoring the settings. I'd be perfectly happy with that myself...
> 
> EDIT: And very few people have the ability to actually "see" a difference, especially in games. It is while doing something simple like dragging your mouse across a dark background screen when you can really tell. But with everything fast paced happening in games, I doubt I will see anything at all. Its just knowing that it is working that helps my OCD.


Hmm that's what i was thinking. I just couldn't understand why it wasn't showing up 110Hz in UFO test. Thanks!


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Do you really want the below average multi port version? Or are you needing to purchase the cheapest one? The NON SE, NON True10, the one with the single input DVI-D port is better.


link to the one your referring to? Preferably USA distributor if possible.


----------



## exzacklyright

So my monitor won't turn on. Had it for about a year. Could be the power block though. Any idea how to diagnose the problem?

The monitor should turn on Right with just the power connected?

Sent from my One using Tapatalk


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> link to the one your referring to? Preferably USA distributor if possible.


There's only one USA distributor and that's IPSLEDmonitors, and there is very little information on them as a company. He just seems to be a middleman with a great replacement policy and add-on warranty. But he is slow to answer questions, and sometimes flat out ignores you... Amazon would be better if you need assurances.

I can't link you to them, as there are hundreds and hundreds of these links. Searching for Qnix QX2710 and then going through the results and looking for the ones that claim only one DVI input and does not say SE on it, or True10, is what I do. I'm going to spring for the Ultimate Perfect Pixel version just because I want the extra assurances that it "may" come with.

Oh hell, I just searched for you anyway
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321376073626


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> So my monitor won't turn on. Had it for about a year. Could be the power block though. Any idea how to diagnose the problem?
> 
> The monitor should turn on Right with just the power connected?
> 
> Sent from my One using Tapatalk


Do you have a meter handy?

EDIT: If you have a meter, do this. Unplug the cord from the wall. Carefully unplug from your monitor. Check to see if the cord looks fine, hasn't somehow broken or gotten snapped. Put your meters red lead inside the small hole. Put the black lead on the outside (I am guess as I do not have this exact power supply, I don't think lol). Plug the cord into the wall. It should read around 12v. Move the cord around a little bit to see if the cord has a break in it somewhere.

I built cables for Intel and Qualcomm the majority of my last 20 years living, and I can tell you that nearly 10% of all cables manufactured in China are either bad or were never tested for quality. The cheaper the cord, the less likely it was ever tested. In the USB world it is almost 15% of all cables coming out of China. I manufacture Specialty USB cables (for the mobile world) and the parts I get from my China supplier are really goo, but it took me three suppliers to find one that did not ship bad parts. My first supplier was almost 30% bad, lol

Its pretty much the same thing with the power supplies, the cheaper they were sourced, the more likely bad ones or weak ones will get shipped.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Here's a quick question, I get a brief blip of distortion going across the whole screen when my GPU changes clock (like on desktop for instance), is this normal or is there a way to stop it doing this?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Here's a quick question, I get a brief blip of distortion going across the whole screen when my GPU changes clock (like on desktop for instance), is this normal or is there a way to stop it doing this?


Sounds like something is wrong with the PCB no? Do you have a multi monitor setup? I get weird stuff like that too, but I have multiple monitors connected and a old video card. The only way for you to test one way or the other is by doing a fresh install of the OS and drivers, using a different set of drivers. If its still doing the exact same thing, its probably the monitor. My guess would be either the TCON board or the DVI board. However, I have very little experience in this field, so I'm just sheer guessing for you.

EDIT: The other day my little brother comes in and says, hey man what is happening to my screen. So I go in there and his monitor screen looks like a rainbow. I restart his computer because he never does, and its gone. That was about two months ago and it hasn't returned. Go figure... His card is my old 8800GTX, and a old P5B, with a fairly new but cheap best buy 19" monitor, I think viewsonic.

Restart your computer? lol

EDIT again: I just thought of something, these DVI cables as supplied are not really the best. Some people may think they are because they have thick hides, but in reality the internal parts were filled by the lowest bidder. DVi, HDMI and DisplayPort cables I ALWAYS hunt down the best ones. I have a DVI-D cable that cost me $300, lol... just because its 16 feet long and uses the worlds highest quality copper and true gold plating, and I had it made custom.


----------



## spiderxjz82

I'll try and capture it but it's almost like the screen is recalibrating somehow.

I'm currently only running a single monitor off SLI Titans, at 110Hz.

It's easy to replicate as all I need to do is let the machine go idle then load up something that uses the GPU.

It's hard to describe but it's similar to the effect you see when you overclock them too much, but just without the green lines.

Edit: It doesn't do it at 96Hz, so I think the monitor is right on the limit of where it can OC to. It won't reach 120 either, even with altered timings.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah, you answered your own question, lol...

If you must have a higher refresh you can buy the internals of that monitor pretty easily.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Nah I think 96 will be fine as I'm planning on 2 more and surrounding them!


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Do you have a meter handy?
> 
> EDIT: If you have a meter, do this. Unplug the cord from the wall. Carefully unplug from your monitor. Check to see if the cord looks fine, hasn't somehow broken or gotten snapped. Put your meters red lead inside the small hole. Put the black lead on the outside (I am guess as I do not have this exact power supply, I don't think lol). Plug the cord into the wall. It should read around 12v. Move the cord around a little bit to see if the cord has a break in it somewhere.
> 
> I built cables for Intel and Qualcomm the majority of my last 20 years living, and I can tell you that nearly 10% of all cables manufactured in China are either bad or were never tested for quality. The cheaper the cord, the less likely it was ever tested. In the USB world it is almost 15% of all cables coming out of China. I manufacture Specialty USB cables (for the mobile world) and the parts I get from my China supplier are really goo, but it took me three suppliers to find one that did not ship bad parts. My first supplier was almost 30% bad, lol
> 
> Its pretty much the same thing with the power supplies, the cheaper they were sourced, the more likely bad ones or weak ones will get shipped.


I measured the voltage coming through the power plug and it's 12V. So I think it's something with the monitor itself. I don't even see it light up or anything. I can hear a buzzing noise though when i press power. I took apart the panel and re connected each cord and still nothing. All I did recently was format and re-install windows... then poof screen goes black.. restart... and poof screen goes black.. and now it won't even display anything.

Did the PCB give out you think?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Thanks for the Information Tom. So, you think I should NOT get the Grade A LG panel for $120 and instead just go with the Qnix for $300 or what ever it will be?
> 
> Oh and by the way, I also found out from the manufacturer LG that this panel is also the replacement for the 2012 Apple 27" displays. So its intended to fix broken HP Z1's AND Apple displays. Maybe now I will have better luck finding reviews on the display knowing this and if the AG is removable, or not. However, I now have reason to believe that this panel (SD)(DB) is NOT compatible with the PCB kits I was looking at getting. So, I may have to break down and get a Qnix PLS anyway per your recommendation (if I understood you correctly above), and hope it lasts as long as my Dell has...
> 
> Just thought maybe I could save some money and get Grade A parts out of the deal to boot, lol... I have emailed several places to confirm compatibility, so I should have my decision soon. To DIY or not to DIY, that is the question.


Actually I'd rather see you do the home build







.... BUT I think you discovered my other big concern which was the OC'able PCB's compatibility with that panel ... hmmm bummer looks like a no go









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I'm getting 120fps in dota with fraps...hmmm....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I'm here again asking for anyone's help in regards to overclocking.
> 
> I follow the guide exactly. I upload the qx2710 profile for the monitor. *I use the patcher* and patch whatever needs patching. I use the nvidia control panel and set it to 110 Hz.
> 
> At 120 Hz i get green lines which means that it is overclocking. I set it down to 110 where i don't get any and go test. I check ufo frame skipping and on chrome, firefox, and opera they all say i'm at 60 fps 60Hz. I have no clue if i'm overclocked or not.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dannnnn_the_man*
> 
> I *hadn't used CRU yet* but i downloaded it and it shows my qnix overclock at 59.950 hz...hmm something is not working correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Sorry I wasn't more clear in my original post, lots of newer game titles since the intro of the Asus 144Hz monitor allow you to now set your refresh (110Hz for you) in the game menu itself if Windows has recognized your monitor overclock! Yes BF3 is a good example, there will be a setting in the game menu for a 110Hz refresh rate! But with a single GTX680 you may need to turn down some settings to pull a constant 110fps or higher to see if your fps syncs up with your monitor refresh rate WHEN Vsync is enabled. Unfortunately all this isn't definitive proof you aren't dropping frames as a True10 will also show the same options if the monitor profile/(OC) exists in Windows









In DOTA If your monitor/OC is set @110Hz and your getting 120fps with Vsync enabled ... something is wrong









I like Skorpion thought you were OK, an overclocked Qnix QX2710 / single input / PLS, IIRC has never showed dropped frames when *"properly"* overclocked. Concern arose when I saw the Dota results and then upon further reading your comments, I see some things that "may?" be causing some driver conflicts. 1st you don't need the patch(s) for a single GTX680 and you certainly don't need CRU in the mix which may? also conflict with newer Nvidia drivers?

So I suggest doing a "clean!" install starting with your GPU Nvidia drivers following Lawson's guide *HERE* ... it's cleaner/clearer and more up to date. Then use the Chrome browser with GPU accelerators enabled, and only have one monitor connected (QNIX)... A properly exposed picture within testufo is the only definitive way I know how to check frame dropping for sure







... hope that helps








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Looking to buy a qnix for a cheap 1440p. Is this a good source?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb


If you don't want to OC beyond 85Hz / don't mind slightly more input lag and slightly inferior AH-VA panel ... then that is a good choice @ a very good price ... BUT if you want the superior original PLS OC'able you'll pay appx $50 more. BUT the cheapest one I could find at the moment from a reputable supplier is only $309 ...









http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b

You can read more details with proof links of the differences *HERE*


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> I measured the voltage coming through the power plug and it's 12V. So I think it's something with the monitor itself. I don't even see it light up or anything. I can hear a buzzing noise though when i press power. I took apart the panel and re connected each cord and still nothing. All I did recently was format and re-install windows... then poof screen goes black.. restart... and poof screen goes black.. and now it won't even display anything.
> 
> Did the PCB give out you think?


Not entirely sure. However, make sure the video cards same DVI connector is OK by connecting it to another working monitor or TV. Just in case. Or try the output of the other card?


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Not entirely sure. However, make sure the video cards same DVI connector is OK by connecting it to another working monitor or TV. Just in case. Or try the output of the other card?


shouldn't the monitor still display something though even without the dvi cable in once the power is connected?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Actually I'd rather see you do the home build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... BUT I think you discovered my other big concern which was the OC'able PCB's compatibility with that panel ... hmmm bummer looks like a no go


Well Joshua at emaxeon thinks it will work and he said he is pretty sure he has tried it on the same panel a few years ago. Its just not on the compatibility list for that tcon board (but I have a feeling it will work).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> shouldn't the monitor still display something though even without the dvi cable in once the power is connected?


You mean like the power LED? Yes it should...


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Well Joshua at emaxeon thinks it will work and he said he is pretty sure he has tried it on the same panel a few years ago. Its just not on the compatibility list for that tcon board (but I have a feeling it will work).
> You mean like the power LED? Yes it should...


well yeah the power led isn't even coming on. I can hear a weird buzzing though when i click the input panel buttons.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> well yeah the power led isn't even coming on. I can hear a weird buzzing though when i click the input panel buttons.


Well I guess the monitor is bad then. Probably the DVI board has bad, but no guarantee on it. Since I can't seem to find the TCON board anywhere as a separate item to replace, I assume the only part that usually goes on these is the main board.

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-X-star-PCB-Replacement-p/qnipcb1.htm


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Well I guess the monitor is bad then. Probably the DVI board has bad, but no guarantee on it. Since I can't seem to find the TCON board anywhere as a separate item to replace, I assume the only part that usually goes on these is the main board.
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-X-star-PCB-Replacement-p/qnipcb1.htm


yeah i did see that... i'm not sure if i want to make the bet on these pcb's again though


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> yeah i did see that... i'm not sure if i want to make the bet on these pcb's again though


What other option is there? Can you contact the seller? Or has it been over a year?


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> yeah i did see that... i'm not sure if i want to make the bet on these pcb's again though


Gutter :-(

Have you tried another power brick? Your current one may deliver a steady 12v unplugged, but that doesn't mean it will deliver a steady supply under load.
Mine went bad a few months back, although not in the same way as yours by the sounds of it (backlight on with no picture or just a blinking standby light).
I replaced the PCB and tried a few other power bricks but to no avail, so be careful.

Hope you sort it out.


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Gutter :-(
> 
> Have you tried another power brick? Your current one may deliver a steady 12v unplugged, but that doesn't mean it will deliver a steady supply under load.
> Mine went bad a few months back, although not in the same way as yours by the sounds of it (backlight on with no picture or just a blinking standby light).
> I replaced the PCB and tried a few other power bricks but to no avail, so be careful.
> 
> Hope you sort it out.


Yeah I only have 1 power brick to try out. It's been more than a year but I contacted the seller anyways. IDK happened. I guess i could order another power brick
I'll try this one when it comes ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110884979882?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## sinnedone

OK guys, I have overclocked my refresh rate on my qnix up to 120hz using cru with my amd r9 290. I have a couple of questions about the overclocking side of things.

First question is about timings. IS this absolutely necessary, and if so How do I figure out what timings Ineed?

Second question is about the darkening and colorshift while overclocked. I see the mention of using Color Sustainer program to set it up, but are there any profiles that put it back to the same way this monitor looks at 60hz? What are the better settings or profiles for the color?

I've been trying to follow this thread for the past 3 months but alot of info has been discussed and I cant remember or find the info I'm looking for?

Anyway thanks for the help guys.


----------



## ADirtyMop

Hey Guys, A little help please. I have dual qnix 1440p monitors and just bought a vest mount for them. After removing both of the little stands one of the monitors works perfectly fine and the second one flases like a testing mode red green white grey. I have tried everything and can confirm that the ports are fine since they were working for about a week before i got the vest mounts.
Thank you very much


----------



## Kokin

Well I tried to bake the PCB for my Qnix and it didn't fix it. The power button now works, but I'm guessing one of the components of the PCB went bad.

When plugging in the power for my Qnix, the backlights will turn on and then turn off, with the power LED turning into the blue blinking state indicating that there is no signal. When I plug in the DL-DVI cable, the blue LED will *disappear* and nothing will happen. When unplugging the DVI cable, the power LED will start blinking blue again.

I did replace the power brick after my Qnix died, but my original brick was constantly hot to the touch unless the monitor was turned off or in standby. Is there anyone here who has a source for a PCB? I tried contacting the Ebay sellers, but none were willing to sell me a PCB.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Well I tried to bake the PCB for my Qnix and it didn't fix it. The power button now works, but I'm guessing one of the components of the PCB went bad.
> 
> When plugging in the power for my Qnix, the backlights will turn on and then turn off, with the power LED turning into the blue blinking state indicating that there is no signal. When I plug in the DL-DVI cable, the blue LED will *disappear* and nothing will happen. When unplugging the DVI cable, the power LED will start blinking blue again.
> 
> I did replace the power brick after my Qnix died, but my original brick was constantly hot to the touch unless the monitor was turned off or in standby. Is there anyone here who has a source for a PCB? I tried contacting the Ebay sellers, but none were willing to sell me a PCB.


This sounds EXACTLY what problem I am having. I'm not even getting a red light using the HDMI cable.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Is there anyone here who has a source for a PCB? I tried contacting the Ebay sellers, but none were willing to sell me a PCB.


I have search everywhere for these and can't even find them in the Chinese online shops. So ipsledmonitors is the only one I know of that might have it in stock...

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-X-star-PCB-Replacement-p/qnipcb1.htm


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I have search everywhere for these and can't even find them in the Chinese online shops. So ipsledmonitors is the only one I know of that might have it in stock...
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-X-star-PCB-Replacement-p/qnipcb1.htm


$130 for the PCB??!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I have search everywhere for these and can't even find them in the Chinese online shops. So ipsledmonitors is the only one I know of that might have it in stock...
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-X-star-PCB-Replacement-p/qnipcb1.htm


Yeah I've seen that as well, but the fact that it comes AS-IS without any warranty or exchange is scary. I could be sold a dud and I would be screwed $130+shipping.

Saving up for another Qnix, but I might as well try to do what I can to my dead Qnix.

Just a couple of pics of the oven process. Used 385F for about 8 minutes.


----------



## Steven185

A Generalized question:

I am aware of these Korean monitors from the time that the craze with the Catleaps begun and in fact I was already sold to the idea of owning an overclockable IPS/PLS monitor. Due to life issues I was out of the game for some years but now -I think- time has come to buy on this concept, however reading reviews like this: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm
kind of deterred me from buying blindly one such monitor.

My question is this I'd guess: According to the review 120Hz overclock does nothing than to actually drop frames leaving the end result very similar as if the monitor was never overclocked. Of course the review is about the multi input variant of these monitors but I wonder if this principle stays. *Did overclocking actually helped the fluidity of your image?*.

I think it's easily understandable that none of us are content with seeing a number higher if it is not reflected to real world results. So yeah, any first-hand reports about the issue (or lack thereof) and/or being pointed to some professional review of such monitors would be much appreciated.

My research until know has not netted anything yet, I can read (in a lot of forums) that 120Hz is achievable but almost none is commenting on whether those are true 120Hz or merely "an illusion" (caused by dropped frames)...

Thanks and sorry for my long post.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steven185*
> 
> A Generalized question:
> 
> I am aware of these Korean monitors from the time that the craze with the Catleaps begun and in fact I was already sold to the idea of owning an overclockable IPS/PLS monitor. Due to life issues I was out of the game for some years but now -I think- time has come to buy on this concept, however reading reviews like this: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm
> kind of deterred me from buying blindly one such monitor.
> 
> My question is this I'd guess: According to the review 120Hz overclock does nothing than to actually drop frames leaving the end result very similar as if the monitor was never overclocked. Of course the review is about the multi input variant of these monitors but I wonder if this principle stays. *Did overclocking actually helped the fluidity of your image?*.
> 
> I think it's easily understandable that none of us are content with seeing a number higher if it is not reflected to real world results. So yeah, any first-hand reports about the issue (or lack thereof) and/or being pointed to some professional review of such monitors would be much appreciated.
> 
> My research until know has not netted anything yet, I can read (in a lot of forums) that 120Hz is achievable but almost none is commenting on whether those are true 120Hz or merely "an illusion" (caused by dropped frames)...
> 
> Thanks and sorry for my long post.


Only the multi-input versions drop frames. If you want to overclock, avoid the True10 Multi version and the SE version (low quality PCBs).

For the single input, which only has 1x Dual-Link DVI port, it actually does sustain the overclock without any dropped frames. There is significant fluidity when overclocking and it is noticeable enough that I even kept the overclock for desktop work (documents/browser).

The only drawbacks is that lifetime of the monitor can vary and some of us have had the PCB crap out anywhere from 8months~1yr+, although many do not see any deterioration even when it's been 1.5yr+. Expect at least 96Hz to work properly, but many can easily reach 110Hz~120Hz. It may also depend on your graphics card as my 7950 could easily hold 120Hz, but my R9 290 could only do 110Hz.

Image quality-wise, it does better than the $200~300 IPS monitors. Although you will see a "dimmer" image when overclocking past 100Hz due to a gamma shift. It can easily be fixed with a color profile change, but there's no avoiding the gamma shift. It never bothered me since I left my overclock constantly on and never got used to the stock gamma.


----------



## Phantatsy

Can we replace the multi port version pcb with a single dual link dvi version?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Can we replace the multi port version pcb with a single dual link dvi version?


I don't have personal experience with it, but most likely yes. The only thing is that the wires/plugs for the buttons may be different since the single-input version does not have a menu/OSD.


----------



## Phantatsy

The PCB for the single-input looks as though it has an extra port.
Multi-input has the following: (Not including speaker input)
*Display Master
*Display Slave
*Inverter (backlight)
*OSD/menu

I'm seeing an extra one on that PCB, what's it for?


----------



## Steven185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Only the multi-input versions drop frames. If you want to overclock, avoid the True10 Multi version and the SE version (low quality PCBs).
> 
> For the single input, which only has 1x Dual-Link DVI port, it actually does sustain the overclock without any dropped frames. There is significant fluidity when overclocking and it is noticeable enough that I even kept the overclock for desktop work (documents/browser).
> 
> The only drawbacks is that lifetime of the monitor can vary and some of us have had the PCB crap out anywhere from 8months~1yr+, although many do not see any deterioration even when it's been 1.5yr+. Expect at least 96Hz to work properly, but many can easily reach 110Hz~120Hz. It may also depend on your graphics card as my 7950 could easily hold 120Hz, but my R9 290 could only do 110Hz.
> 
> Image quality-wise, it does better than the $200~300 IPS monitors. Although you will see a "dimmer" image when overclocking past 100Hz due to a gamma shift. It can easily be fixed with a color profile change, but there's no avoiding the gamma shift. It never bothered me since I left my overclock constantly on and never got used to the stock gamma.


OK, thanks very much indeed, that's what I was looking for









For example I found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310696178677
Is this the one we're talking about? (not mutli-input, not SE)

BTW sorry for posting a link I know it may be prohibited, I just wish to confirm that we talk about the same monitor, once it is confirmed I can edit my post to remove it.

Lastly, if the PCB dies as you say (that) it does, wouldn't changing it be an option? That is to say paying an extra 100 pounds be enough to "buy" another year of perfect performance?
Oh and I own a version 9 nVidia GFX card (GTX 970), given how new it is I'd hope that it does support overclocking, right?

Again thanks for your valuable input.


----------



## SmackHisFace

Never Mind


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, I just upgraded to win 8.1 Pro and I can't get a stable 110 hz sync in any browser like I did in Win7.
I got Nvida SLI, patched drivers, set resolution to 110 hz and windows recognizes it... but no sync in the ufo frame skip test. (it seems to hobble between 108 and 110)

Is this a deal breaker for win 8?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey guys, I just upgraded to win 8.1 Pro and I can't get a stable 110 hz sync in any browser like I did in Win7.
> I got Nvida SLI, patched drivers, set resolution to 110 hz and windows recognizes it... but no sync in the ufo frame skip test. (it seems to hobble between 108 and 110)
> 
> Is this a deal breaker for win 8?


It might be a deal breaker and you might be on to something. Have you tried both 32bit and 64bit browsers? Now that Chrome, Firefox and IE11 all have both 32 and 64 bit stable versions, it might be prudent to try both.


----------



## kache

Has anyone bought or tried the QNIX QX320QHD *Super Ultra Lite*? It seems to have only DVI Dual Link and HDMI, costs about $30 less, but all the other garbage (like virtual 4k) seems to be still there, which means the board is the same, and so is the input lag...


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steven185*
> 
> OK, thanks very much indeed, that's what I was looking for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For example I found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310696178677
> Is this the one we're talking about? (not mutli-input, not SE)
> 
> BTW sorry for posting a link I know it may be prohibited, I just wish to confirm that we talk about the same monitor, once it is confirmed I can edit my post to remove it.
> 
> Lastly, if the PCB dies as you say (that) it does, wouldn't changing it be an option? That is to say paying an extra 100 pounds be enough to "buy" another year of perfect performance?
> Oh and I own a version 9 nVidia GFX card (GTX 970), given how new it is I'd hope that it does support overclocking, right?
> 
> Again thanks for your valuable input.


Yes, that's the one you want - I don't know anything about that seller though.

As for the PCB, in theory yes, but I don't know what kind of success people have had swapping out the PCBs for them. A lot of people get the SquareTrade warranty when they buy them, which should cover repair/replacement for 3 years.

And the 9 series will support overclocking just fine - it's actually easier on Nvidia than AMD because you can do it directly from the control panel.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> OK guys, I have overclocked my refresh rate on my qnix up to 120hz using cru with my amd r9 290. I have a couple of questions about the overclocking side of things.
> 
> First question is about timings. IS this absolutely necessary, and if so How do I figure out what timings Ineed?
> 
> Second question is about the darkening and colorshift while overclocked. I see the mention of using Color Sustainer program to set it up, but are there any profiles that put it back to the same way this monitor looks at 60hz? What are the better settings or profiles for the color?
> 
> I've been trying to follow this thread for the past 3 months but alot of info has been discussed and I cant remember or find the info I'm looking for?
> 
> Anyway thanks for the help guys.


There is a paranoia about running these monitors 24/7 @ an OC above 110Hz which even with reduced timings will put your pixel clock above the spec'd limit of 450 MHz. There are many who claim to run 120Hz 24/7 with std timings (Nvidia) @483 MHz pixel clock with no adverse effects for over a year now. We have seen some failures, but not all related to being over the pixel clock limit, 96Hz OC's for example.
I have asked the most knowledgeable people on this forum ToastyX, MenacingTuba, etc as to what exactly is stressed, what components will prematurely degrade or fail and how it relates to an Overclocked Monitor and the pixel limit? No one seems to be able to put their finger on exactly what is happening with the OC and component stress.

So with all that said a few of us have taken precautionary measures and run our 24/7 OC @110Hz (Nvidia 443 pixel clock) even though our monitor is quite capable of 120+Hz, which I still set in certain games like Counter Strike where there is a night and day difference compared to 60Hz or even 96Hz. I'll be honest I feel like I'm sitting on a time bomb with this monitor ... BUT 1440p IPS @ 120Hz for $250-$300 bucks ($240 in my case) how could you ever settle for less (TN panel) when you've experienced this









Wow sinnedon, I digress ... back to timings, the choice is yours and whether you want your ram to properly downclock @ the desktop while closing the gap with the pixel limit @ 120Hz OC's with custom timings or not? Lawson and I go into further detail in his thread *HERE* and how we sorted through it *HERE* ... there is also a good discussion/implementation on Yaz's Color Sustainer and custom ICC profiles (a DL of my favorites) links to more info etc ... Remember when it comes to color correction every monitor is different and just as important is people's personal perception of what looks/feels right for them if they don't have their own color meters to reset factory specs according to their own environment









You may also find some interesting topics over @ 120Hz.net *HERE*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Well I tried to bake the PCB for my Qnix and it didn't fix it. The power button now works, but I'm guessing one of the components of the PCB went bad.
> 
> When plugging in the power for my Qnix, the backlights will turn on and then turn off, with the power LED turning into the blue blinking state indicating that there is no signal. When I plug in the DL-DVI cable, the blue LED will *disappear* and nothing will happen. When unplugging the DVI cable, the power LED will start blinking blue again.
> 
> I did replace the power brick after my Qnix died, but my original brick was constantly hot to the touch unless the monitor was turned off or in standby. Is there anyone here who has a source for a PCB? I tried contacting the Ebay sellers, but none were willing to sell me a PCB.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I have search everywhere for these and can't even find them in the Chinese online shops. So ipsledmonitors is the only one I know of that might have it in stock...
> 
> http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-X-star-PCB-Replacement-p/qnipcb1.htm
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear this, as you've taken all the steps I would if (when?) my monitor fails, including replacing the PCB correct? ...









Wouldn't it be nice to have ipsledmonitors open up a NAmerica service center whether they were officially contracted with QNIX/Samsung or not! I was also secretly hoping "Skorpion" might go down this road on a part time basis with his abilities and facilities









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steven185*
> 
> A Generalized question:
> 
> I am aware of these Korean monitors from the time that the craze with the Catleaps begun and in fact I was already sold to the idea of owning an overclockable IPS/PLS monitor. Due to life issues I was out of the game for some years but now -I think- time has come to buy on this concept, however reading reviews like this: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm
> kind of deterred me from buying blindly one such monitor.
> 
> My question is this I'd guess: According to the review 120Hz overclock does nothing than to actually drop frames leaving the end result very similar as if the monitor was never overclocked. Of course the review is about the multi input variant of these monitors but I wonder if this principle stays. *Did overclocking actually helped the fluidity of your image?*.
> I think it's easily understandable that none of us are content with seeing a number higher if it is not reflected to real world results. So yeah, any first-hand reports about the issue (or lack thereof) and/or being pointed to some professional review of such monitors would be much appreciated.
> 
> My research until know has not netted anything yet, I can read (in a lot of forums) that 120Hz is achievable but almost none is commenting on whether those are true 120Hz or merely "an illusion" (caused by dropped frames)...
> 
> Thanks and sorry for my long post.


Everything Kokin said ... good comments +R ... plus you could read more about the different models *HERE*
I will also ad the "fluidity" is definitely improved over 60Hz with a *properly* overclocked monitor ...
See my comments/links above


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There is a paranoia about running these monitors 24/7 @ an OC above 110Hz which even with reduced timings will put your pixel clock above the spec'd limit of 450 MHz. There are many who claim to run 120Hz 24/7 with std timings (Nvidia) @483 MHz pixel clock with no adverse effects for over a year now. We have seen some failures, but not all related to being over the pixel clock limit, 96Hz OC's for example.
> I have asked the most knowledgeable people on this forum ToastyX, MenacingTuba, etc as to what exactly is stressed, what components will prematurely degrade or fail and how it relates to an Overclocked Monitor and the pixel limit? No one seems to be able to put their finger on exactly what is happening with the OC and component stress.
> 
> So with all that said a few of us have taken precautionary measures and run our 24/7 OC @110Hz (Nvidia 443 pixel clock) even though our monitor is quite capable of 120+Hz, which I still set in certain games like Counter Strike where there is a night and day difference compared to 60Hz or even 96Hz. I'll be honest I feel like I'm sitting on a time bomb with this monitor ... BUT 1440p IPS @ 120Hz for $250-$300 bucks ($240 in my case) how could you ever settle for less (TN panel) when you've experienced this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow sinnedon, I digress ... back to timings, the choice is yours and whether you want your ram to properly downclock @ the desktop while closing the gap with the pixel limit @ 120Hz OC's with custom timings or not? Lawson and I go into further detail in his thread *HERE* and how we sorted through it *HERE* ... there is also a good discussion/implementation on Yaz's Color Sustainer and custom ICC profiles (a DL of my favorites) links to more info etc ... Remember when it comes to color correction every monitor is different and just as important is people's personal perception of what looks/feels right for them if they don't have their own color meters to reset factory specs according to their own environment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You may also find some interesting topics over @ 120Hz.net *HERE*
> Sorry to hear this, as you've taken all the steps I would if (when?) my monitor fails, including replacing the PCB correct? ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't it be nice to have ipsledmonitors open up a NAmerica service center whether they were officially contracted with QNIX/Samsung or not! I was also secretly hoping "Skorpion" might go down this road on a part time basis with his abilities and facilities
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything Kokin said ... good comments +R ... plus you could read more about the different models *HERE*
> I will also ad the "fluidity" is definitely improved over 60Hz with a *properly* overclocked monitor ...
> See my comments/links above :thumb


That was a very concise and helpful response to my questions. I will definitely hit up those links and research some more.

Thanks again, Repped.


----------



## davea50

It seems as though the Dynamic Screen Resolution on the GTX 9x0's will not allow overclocking of the monitor, as it prevents using customized screen resolutions/refreshes.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yeah I've seen that as well, but the fact that it comes AS-IS without any warranty or exchange is scary. I could be sold a dud and I would be screwed $130+shipping.
> 
> Saving up for another Qnix, but I might as well try to do what I can to my dead Qnix.
> 
> Just a couple of pics of the oven process. Used 385F for about 8 minutes.


Fair play mate!
This is where my complete lack of knowledge is exposed, but what's the theory behind 'baking' the board ?

Cheers!


----------



## registered user

If I debezel the Qnix will I loose all controls (brightness etc)? I would want to debezel it because the frame is pretty ugly. Is it easy to change between 60Hz and 120Hz? I plan to use 120Hz only for FPS games and 60Hz rest of the time to get best color accuracy.

I just read that overclocking to 120Hz results in dark top corner(s). Doe all Qnix monitors do this?

Does the monitor overclock to 120Hz with less side effects if I'm using 1920x1080p?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> It might be a deal breaker and you might be on to something. Have you tried both 32bit and 64bit browsers? Now that Chrome, Firefox and IE11 all have both 32 and 64 bit stable versions, it might be prudent to try both.


It's just the 64-bit version, I haven't tried the 32-bit. I might just be going straight back to win7.


----------



## Steven185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Yes, that's the one you want - I don't know anything about that seller though.
> 
> As for the PCB, in theory yes, but I don't know what kind of success people have had swapping out the PCBs for them. A lot of people get the SquareTrade warranty when they buy them, which should cover repair/replacement for 3 years.
> 
> And the 9 series will support overclocking just fine - it's actually easier on Nvidia than AMD because you can do it directly from the control panel.


Hey, I saw that you commented on the quality of the seller (or lack thereof). Is there a significant difference between different sellers?
For example I found this one who seems to be more reputable: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330935300132
But he sells a kind of a different monitor (I gather it's the same panel but still), which may suffer in picture quality compared to the other I posted.

Do you think it would still be preferable to buy from a more reputable seller even if it meant buying a slightly worse monitor? (I dunno, maybe they're the same, but it's the QNIX the one that gets the most praises which is why it has left me wondering).

Thanks and sorry if I'm being a bother


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steven185*
> 
> Hey, I saw that you commented on the quality of the seller (or lack thereof). Is there a significant difference between different sellers?
> For example I found this one who seems to be more reputable: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330935300132
> But he sells a kind of a different monitor (I gather it's the same panel but still), which may suffer in picture quality compared to the other I posted.
> 
> Do you think it would still be preferable to buy from a more reputable seller even if it meant buying a slightly worse monitor? (I dunno, maybe they're the same, but it's the QNIX the one that gets the most praises which is why it has left me wondering).
> 
> Thanks and sorry if I'm being a bother


I don't know anything about that seller, just that it isn't one of the ones you see most often (like dreamseller or storewithstory). I would try to buy from a seller that has a rep for returning emails (some don't) and that accepts returns for bad monitors just in case. It's sometimes a hassle dealing with the Korean sellers so finding one that has a good history helps. I've bought from both dreamseller and storewithstory and they were both good. Accessorieswhole is another common one.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Fair play mate!
> This is where my complete lack of knowledge is exposed, but what's the theory behind 'baking' the board ?
> 
> Cheers!


Hi, it is mostly to just reflow any of the solder joints in the board. PCBs that go through many heating/cooling cycles can sometimes produce micro-cracks within the soldering joints. If you have no idea which chips/parts to heat up, baking allows the whole board to get reflowed. Although ideally, you want to use a soldering iron or a heatgun on the actual affected joints/parts

My Qnix has been dead for a while now and I was just trying something for fun. I'm thinking it's a capacitor that went bad because the day before my Qnix died, it would flicker/blink on and off, then eventually it started doing that quicker and became purely black the next day.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hi, it is mostly to just reflow any of the solder joints in the board. PCBs that go through many heating/cooling cycles can sometimes produce micro-cracks within the soldering joints. If you have no idea which chips/parts to heat up, baking allows the whole board to get reflowed. Although ideally, you want to use a soldering iron or a heatgun on the actual affected joints/parts
> 
> My Qnix has been dead for a while now and I was just trying something for fun. I'm thinking it's a capacitor that went bad because the day before my Qnix died, it would flicker/blink on and off, then eventually it started doing that quicker and became purely black the next day.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Last week, I *had a power outage and when power came back a few minutes later*, my monitor started fading/blinking (see video below) and it eventually stopped outputting any picture. It's most likely an electrical surge, but my power strip has surge protection and my other monitor and rig were not affected.


That seems to be what your problem was, and not the monitor per se', and a blown cap fits that after a power surge from an outage quite reasonably.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Hi, it is mostly to just reflow any of the solder joints in the board. PCBs that go through many heating/cooling cycles can sometimes produce micro-cracks within the soldering joints. If you have no idea which chips/parts to heat up, baking allows the whole board to get reflowed. Although ideally, you want to use a soldering iron or a heatgun on the actual affected joints/parts
> 
> My Qnix has been dead for a while now and I was just trying something for fun. I'm thinking it's a capacitor that went bad because the day before my Qnix died, it would flicker/blink on and off, then eventually it started doing that quicker and became purely black the next day.


Yes exactly. When he said he was baking it I kinda got worried because of the plastic parts that the board has. I always use my iron and hit every solder pad I see really good on both sides with boards this small. However, about 15 years ago I did bake a motherboard to no success. It just needs more heat and no plastic parts to be successful though, and still there is a chance the heat will damage a IC chip.

Back in the early 1990's my employer used to have me bake all kinds of PCB's in this giant oven looking thing, that really resembled a oven you would use for large ceramic work. It was before I really knew what it was for but I remember the temps being like 450f or 500f or something along those lines. I still have no idea what they were doing as that, now anyway, does not seem like proper reflow work to me (maybe that is not proper today because of IC's being more delicate these days?), but I can't remember if it had any IC's on it or not. If not, then I assume it was surface components or solder pad failure rework. Just not sure...

Anyway, if you want to try again, go get a cheap radio shack iron, and hit every solder pad you see for a few seconds. Those radio shack irons are not that hot so keep it on each pad a good while so it reflows through any possible holes to the other side of the pcb. I doubt it, but you just might get lucky. What could it hurt?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Anyway, if you want to try again, go get a cheap radio shack iron, and hit every solder pad you see for a few seconds. Those radio shack irons are not that hot so keep it on each pad a good while so it reflows through any possible holes to the other side of the pcb. I doubt it, but you just might get lucky. What could it hurt?


Yeah this was the first thing I did try, but to no avail. Also, the PCB seems to have more than 1 layer, so it was difficult to do a continuity test with a multimeter.

If I could find the component(s) that went bad, it would have been easy to take it out and replace it, but a multi-layer PCB without any schematic diagrams makes that just about impossible.


----------



## Dry Bonez

can someone please confirm,im done trying to do research so im gonna ask you guys,even though i hear mix answers..... i ordered the Qnix evolution ii single input which is the dvi d for dual.i have a GTX 580,and it has 2x dvi I ports.they have pins and then 4 squared looking spots. i read somewhere that dvi d is compatible with dvi i but not the other way around.....basically what im trying to ask is my gpu compatible with this monitor? again,i have the EVGA GTX 580 1.5gb version. can someone please google the card and look at the ports/specs and confirm if this will work or not.if not,im gonna get me a GTX 980 or 970. please and thanks.

i need atleast 2 people confirming it will work without any extra cables or adapters. thanks.


----------



## TrevJonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> can someone please confirm,im done trying to do research so im gonna ask you guys,even though i hear mix answers..... i ordered the Qnix evolution ii single input which is the dvi d for dual.i have a GTX 580,and it has 2x dvi I ports.they have pins and then 4 squared looking spots. i read somewhere that dvi d is compatible with dvi i but not the other way around.....basically what im trying to ask is my gpu compatible with this monitor? again,i have the EVGA GTX 580 1.5gb version. can someone please google the card and look at the ports/specs and confirm if this will work or not.if not,im gonna get me a GTX 980 or 970. please and thanks.
> 
> i need atleast 2 people confirming it will work without any extra cables or adapters. thanks.


It worked on my 560ti so i would say it is a safe bet your 580 will do just fine. If the first DVI port doesn't take it, jump to the next.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> can someone please confirm,im done trying to do research so im gonna ask you guys,even though i hear mix answers..... i ordered the Qnix evolution ii single input which is the dvi d for dual.i have a GTX 580,and it has 2x dvi I ports.they have pins and then 4 squared looking spots. i read somewhere that dvi d is compatible with dvi i but not the other way around.....basically what im trying to ask is my gpu compatible with this monitor? again,i have the EVGA GTX 580 1.5gb version. can someone please google the card and look at the ports/specs and confirm if this will work or not.if not,im gonna get me a GTX 980 or 970. please and thanks.
> 
> i need atleast 2 people confirming it will work without any extra cables or adapters. thanks.


DVI-I is the same as DVI-D, the only difference is DVI-I has analog signals as well, which the Monitor will ignore since it has a DVI-D cable included, which probably will not have the extra pins. According to NVIDIA it will work...

http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/221/~/what-is-the-difference-between-dvi-i-and-dvi-d%3F


----------



## bijan588

Hey guys.

I just wanted to give a fair warning, I tried overclocking my xstar today after having at 60hz for about a year, and as soon as I put it up to 120hz it made a clicking noise, then a fizzle, then the purple smoke escaped and it has not worked since.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> I just wanted to give a fair warning, I tried overclocking my xstar today after having at 60hz for about a year, and as soon as I put it up to 120hz it made a clicking noise, then a fizzle, then the purple smoke escaped and it has not worked since.


That's a bummer. What did you fry?


----------



## jameyscott

Update from me. Accessories whole is willing to give me a discount. I've decided just to keep the multi and eventually just use it an accessory monitor. I'll be purchasing two more QNIX this week!


----------



## Steven185

One last question if I may: I've decided that the Qnix is the monitor for me, albeit it is a bit overprized compared to how it was in the past. Anyhow I'm not much of a console player, so the lack of scaler is not a huge deal for me. Still I would like to play the occassional PS3 game on it and it's a shame such a good panel to go wasted. So I was thinking if I was to buy an external scaler and somehow -also- override the DHCP limitations. Would such a project be feasible to enable me play PS3 games on QNIX single input monitor?


----------



## bijan588

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> That's a bummer. What did you fry?


I'm not sure, its kinda working now:


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> I'm not sure, its kinda working now:


Time to have a rave party.


----------



## kaspar737

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davea50*
> 
> It seems as though the Dynamic Screen Resolution on the GTX 9x0's will not allow overclocking of the monitor, as it prevents using customized screen resolutions/refreshes.


What, really? Is this confirmed?


----------



## kimck99

Hi All,

I purchased the QNIX Q2710 from AccessoriseWhole about a month ago and I have been using it right out of the box. No overclocking.

Today, I turned on the monitor and the screen is not utilizing the full width of the monitor. It's 'squished' in about two inches on both sides. The screen resolution is still at 2560 x 1440. I tried to adjust the horizontal sizing to stretch is out but that control is not access from the on screen menu control of the monitor.

Anyone have any ideas to solve this issue?

Thanks


----------



## kimck99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimck99*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I purchased the QNIX Q2710 from AccessoriseWhole about a month ago and I have been using it right out of the box. No overclocking.
> 
> Today, I turned on the monitor and the screen is not utilizing the full width of the monitor. It's 'squished' in about two inches on both sides. The screen resolution is still at 2560 x 1440. I tried to adjust the horizontal sizing to stretch is out but that control is not access from the on screen menu control of the monitor.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas to solve this issue?
> 
> Thanks


BTW - This is the monitor I purchased _*QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE 27" 2560x1440 Overclockable Monitor*_


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davea50*
> 
> It seems as though the Dynamic Screen Resolution on the GTX 9x0's will not allow overclocking of the monitor, as it prevents using customized screen resolutions/refreshes.


Even if this is true, it won't matter much because it is obviously only targeted at large 1080p screens. On these 27" screens or even 32" monitors, the pixels are already very dense, so no worries whatsoever. However, on premium TV's the input is only 60hz anyway and the TV does some fancy overlocking itself. The result when using DSR on a premium 1080p TV is nothing short of what it looks like when you put a very expensive Bluray player on a very nice 1080p TV, utterly JAW DROPPING! Numbers do not mean diddly squat, what matters is results.

Officially supported DSR from the NVIDIA drivers is one of the reasons I am getting the 980. I am in hopes that it somehow will convince Netflix to allow 1080p TV owners to enjoy their upcoming 4K without the need to go buy another TV. Or for it to "trick" the Netflix app to think I have a 4K display, lol. My nearly $3000 120hz TV's PQ looks every bit as good as models coming out today (to my eyes), I just need it to be fed the bitrate in order to give me that PQ. Make sense?


----------



## castlefire

Im late to the party. I read through all the thread and not going to ask same old question. Ordered my X-star Perfect Pixel matt finish about 2 weeks ago. Finally on its way left dream-sellers on friday night. Right now its over the pacific. On Flight FedEx 92 found this great site that shows all of FedEx's Planes in the Air very cool. and UPS and DHL

http://flightaware.com/live/fleet/FDX

I know some say they get their Monitors in 3 days but Korea thanksgiving gave dream-seller a backlog. I was able to contact him on facebook. gave me quick answers i will post pictures when it get here on Wednesday


----------



## kimck99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimck99*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I purchased the QNIX Q2710 from AccessoriseWhole about a month ago and I have been using it right out of the box. No overclocking.
> 
> Today, I turned on the monitor and the screen is not utilizing the full width of the monitor. It's 'squished' in about two inches on both sides. The screen resolution is still at 2560 x 1440. I tried to adjust the horizontal sizing to stretch is out but that control is not access from the on screen menu control of the monitor.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas to solve this issue?
> 
> Thanks


Please disregard. I solved this issue. Well, it wasn't an issue but rather user error. Somehow, I changed the Aspect Ratio in the monitor menu to 4:3. While poking around the menu, saw this and changed the ratio to WIDE. Problem solved.

Sorry for take up the Internet with my problem 

Cheers.


----------



## seanp2501

hold up the qnix has a 4:3 and wide setting? I can't believe that lol. Also get out the new 900 cards can't oc these things? Conspiracy? I was really thinking of picking one up cause of the price. Just bought this as my second display n for ps4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJNA12Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works like a charm using the nvidia control panel at 120hz. Using a classified 780ti. Booted up Dead Rising 3 and loving the graphics. Qnix till it falls apart!


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yeah this was the first thing I did try, but to no avail. Also, the PCB seems to have more than 1 layer, so it was difficult to do a continuity test with a multimeter.
> 
> If I could find the component(s) that went bad, it would have been easy to take it out and replace it, but a multi-layer PCB without any schematic diagrams makes that just about impossible.


Have you tried replacing the caps yet?
That's next on my list, when I can be arsed to get around to it / borrow my neighbours iron.
I'm still confused though - can't see how this could be anything bar the PCB, which I've replaced...
I've tried lots of other power bricks, reading around the web I've seen others use higher voltage power bricks. Monitor seems (I hope) to accept a wide range ?
My end result is the same anyway regardless of brick...

What's odd though is that from one DVI port on my main rig monitor just blinks in standby mode.
Plug it into another rig or second DVI on main PC and backlight comes on with no picture.

With the 'new' PCB I don't get a backlight on at all, just flashing in standby mode regardless.
Starting to wonder if I've been sold a duff PCB. :-(

Same as others on here, monitor flickered during its last seconds of wonderful life before its demise...


----------



## spiderxjz82

Yeah I'd heard the new 900 series can't create custom resolutions too.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Yeah I'd heard the new 900 series can't create custom resolutions too.


HUH? Oh Boy, I sure hope that is incorrect. I guess we will need something like CRU to come to the rescue?


----------



## davea50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Yeah I'd heard the new 900 series can't create custom resolutions too.


Mostly incorrect. It can't create custom resolutions when DSR is enabled.

My qnix runs perfectly at 110Hz with a gtx 970, with timings that allow for the gpu core/memory to downclock on the desktop.


----------



## darisito

My Powercolor 280x Turboduo OC on stock clocks does only downclock to 500mhz core in idle with my single display Qnix 2710 @ 96hz with the properties as can be seen in the pictures I have attached. In CCC I have reduced DVI frequency + alternative DVI mode checked.

Can someone please tell me what (if possible) I have to do so my GPU can downclock further to 300mhz or whatever its lowest downclock-state can be? Thanks in advance.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darisito*
> 
> My Powercolor 280x Turboduo OC on stock clocks does only downclock to 500mhz core in idle with my single display Qnix 2710 @ 96hz with the properties as can be seen in the pictures I have attached. In CCC I have reduced DVI frequency + alternative DVI mode checked.
> 
> Can someone please tell me what (if possible) I have to do so my GPU can downclock further to 300mhz or whatever its lowest downclock-state can be? Thanks in advance.


You can try completely removing the ACE folder, by uninstalling you drivers completely and re-installing. However, that may not work. Also, I know XFX recently told their customers they will not support going below 500 mhz because there simply is not reason to even be considering doing that. It may save .5C or a few pennies a year in electricity. So, they told their customers no. lol

That don't mean you can't figure it out on your own. I think the ACE folder holds your frequency data.


----------



## darisito

Thanks for your fast reply. Unfortunately I don't know what you mean by "ACE folder", I couldn't find it in the CCC installation and also google didn't give me any hint.

It might not waste much electricity (also that sounds strange to me), but my graphics card, although almost new, is usually around 43°C in idle, which is not good.

Edit: I found the folder, but I already completely reinstalled my driver two times (with DDU), so this can't be what I'm looking for. Thanks though.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darisito*
> 
> Thanks for your fast reply. Unfortunately I don't know what you mean by "ACE folder", I couldn't find it in the CCC installation and also google didn't give me any hint.
> 
> It might not waste much electricity (also that sounds strange to me), but my graphics card, although almost new, is usually around 43°C in idle, which is not good.
> 
> Edit: I found the folder, but I already completely reinstalled my driver two times (with DDU), so this can't be what I'm looking for. Thanks though.


Yeah, I didn't think that would help either, lol, but I posted it anyway. I just saw it mentioned by someone in another thread to remove that folder if you want to change mhz. I never tried it and I never found the ACE folder. Are you air cooled or water cooled? Isn't 43c pretty good for stock cooling? What is your ambient temps? You should be about 10-13c above ambients, unless you got a super cooler. I'm at 31c on my gpu, and my ambient room temp is 22c. I'm on a premium full cover waterblock, but i'm still 9c above the ambients at idle.

You could do what I used to do and edit the actual BIOS. I lowered my mhz and voltages during idle for a while until I realized I had lost stability and streaming video would lock up.


----------



## Dry Bonez

that is insane.my qnix 2710 single input model shipped on sunday(yesterday) morning and will get here tomorrow! 2 freaking days. i told my mom and brother about it and they both think its a scam or something but i cant wait until i get it.


----------



## jameyscott

Just bought two more QNIXs. This time I bought the Non-SE model hoping it will overclock a little better, although I did finally get my SE model to 110hz with tightened timings.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Just bought two more QNIXs. This time I bought the Non-SE model hoping it will overclock a little better, although I did finally get my SE model to 110hz with tightened timings.


what you mean NON SE? what does SE stand for?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> what you mean NON SE? what does SE stand for?


Read this post to learn more about the models. I opted for non-SE models at a slightly higher cost this time. I plan on doing a review of each of the monitors for my youtube channel in the near future.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> HUH? Oh Boy, I sure hope that is incorrect. I guess we will need something like CRU to come to the rescue?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davea50*
> 
> Mostly incorrect. It can't create custom resolutions when DSR is enabled.
> 
> My qnix runs perfectly at 110Hz with a gtx 970, with timings that allow for the gpu core/memory to downclock on the desktop.


Good to hear it's not so bad then, so long as you don't want to use DSR.


----------



## OneTreeHill

Hi folks.

QNIX QX2710 & Yamakasi Catleap Q270

Which would be the right choice?


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Think I just made an amazing discovery.
> 
> Wanted to drive my Qnix via my low power Intel system, which only has the HDMI output of the integrated Haswell graphics.
> 
> Played for hours in Windows, but never could get above 165MHz Pixel Clock, which equates to about 40Hz @ QHD resolution.
> 
> Then I booted up Linux, and after adding the [email protected] modeline via xrandr it was working immediately!
> 
> I'm using a cheap HDMI -> DVI cable.
> 
> The Linux driver is limited at 300MHz PixelClock for Haswell.
> 
> I was able to patch the Linux kernel to lift this 300Mhz limit. At 85Hz I get a lot of graphic errors though.
> 
> Ordered an HQ cable from Amazon and will see how it goes.
> 
> This is basically driving it via DVI Single link, as HDMI only uses one link.
> 
> So why is everyone saying single link is not possible?
> I'm sure it won't go to 120Hz, but it looks like 80Hz+ is definitely possible.


Some update on this:

I got it working under Windows 8.1 as well now.

It took modifying the EDID to fake an 'HDMI-a' connection. I created the new EDID binary under Windows and then flashed it under Linux with help of the eeprom module and the i2cset tool.

Now Windows supports up to 300MHz single-link connections! 300MHz seems to be the HDMI PixelClock Limit on Windows and Linux.
Also added a 40Hz QHD detailed mode to EDID, now the Monitor is even working at bootup, which wasn't working before (probably since the PixelClock is too high for BIOS @ SingleLink).

My HQ-cable arrived, but it looks like it's not much better or even a bit worse than the cheap cable. It's also very possible that the Intel TDMS chip or the electronic in the Qnix is hitting the limit.

70Hz single link still looks good.

Do you guys know if 70Mhz single link is putting the same strain as 140MHz dual-link on the electronics? I guess the panel itself should be fine?! Would be great to know how this works out and if 24/7 on 60Hz single-link should be safe.


----------



## nicodemus

freezer, would you help me setup the refresh OC under Linux? i'm unsure how to do it. I'm using Manjaro KDE version.

Thanks!


----------



## bluedevil

Am I crazy for thinking for a second on going to a 144hz 24" LED instead of my Qnix @ 92hz?


----------



## nicodemus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Am I crazy for thinking for a second on going to a 144hz 24" LED instead of my Qnix @ 92hz?


yes. while i loved my 120hz Samsung TN, my [email protected] destroys it. unless you NEED the 144hz for, say, competitive reasons, I can't see it being a worthwhile change. but YMMV


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Am I crazy for thinking for a second on going to a 144hz 24" LED instead of my Qnix @ 92hz?


At 1080P yes. Now if your talking about the new Asus ROG 1440p 144hz then no, your perfectly sane. lol

Apart from the ability to overclock there's just better screen real estate at 1440p. Windows side by side split windows actually works without having to scroll.


----------



## darisito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah, I didn't think that would help either, lol, but I posted it anyway. I just saw it mentioned by someone in another thread to remove that folder if you want to change mhz. I never tried it and I never found the ACE folder. Are you air cooled or water cooled? Isn't 43c pretty good for stock cooling? What is your ambient temps? You should be about 10-13c above ambients, unless you got a super cooler. I'm at 31c on my gpu, and my ambient room temp is 22c. I'm on a premium full cover waterblock, but i'm still 9c above the ambients at idle.
> 
> You could do what I used to do and edit the actual BIOS. I lowered my mhz and voltages during idle for a while until I realized I had lost stability and streaming video would lock up.


Thank you for your effort though! I'm not really sure what my ambient temps are, but I remember my GTX 460 with a dustlayered cooler keeping my card at 30-35°C at idle in summer, when my room was around 25°C or even hotter. Right now my room can't be much hotter than 22°C, but the GPU is at 43-44°C, which is very annoying.

Anyone else who has a tipp for me?


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> that is insane.my qnix 2710 single input model shipped on sunday(yesterday) morning and will get here tomorrow! 2 freaking days. i told my mom and brother about it and they both think its a scam or something but i cant wait until i get it.


Who did u buy from?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> Who did u buy from?


And let us know how bad the backlight bleed/how many dead pixels you have. Very interested.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> Who did u buy from?


He bought from AccessoriesWhole.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> He bought from AccessoriesWhole.


That's where I got mine from. Was a bit slower than that for my shipping, though.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> That's where I got mine from. Was a bit slower than that for my shipping, though.


Both of mine were in two days. It depends on what day you bought it. They don't do any business on the weekend, so don't expect anything to be done about it then. It's best to purchase on a Sunday, due to the time difference, it's actually Monday there. (This depends where in the world you live in.) I just bought two more yesterday and they shipped today. They should be here on Thursday which makes me much excite as I'm off work.


----------



## Abadaman

Guys, when i view pure black color at around 2feet (61cm) i see some glow on the corners, upper right and lower right corner has some kind of yellow glow and upper left and lower left corner is bluish+white glow, is this normal? When i go back to lets say to 5feet(150cm) it dissapears completely Can you open up http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=1 choose black, press f11 and check this for me?


----------



## The Source

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Guys, when i view pure black color at around 2feet (61cm) i see some glow on the corners, upper right and lower right corner has some kind of yellow glow and upper left and lower left corner is bluish+white glow, is this normal? When i go back to lets say to 5feet(150cm) it dissapears completely Can you open up http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=1 choose black, press f11 and check this for me?


If you are referring to back light bleeding, then we all suffer from it to some degree. It has been discussed quite a bit. Check the OP. There are some methods to "fix" or minimize it but that requires some disassembley.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Guys, when i view pure black color at around 2feet (61cm) i see some glow on the corners, upper right and lower right corner has some kind of yellow glow and upper left and lower left corner is bluish+white glow, is this normal? When i go back to lets say to 5feet(150cm) it dissapears completely Can you open up http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=1 choose black, press f11 and check this for me?


Probably back light bleeding which all monitors suffer from to a degree and these monitors probably suffering more.
It would be helpful if you could take a clear picture of the monitor with a phone / camera if it really bothers you and we can tell you if it's normal or not.


----------



## Phantatsy

Does the light move when you move your head? If so that's the IPS/PLS panel glow and there is no fixing it as all panels of this type have that effect.


----------



## Jorginto

Hey guys which colour calibration profile would you recommend for AH VA panel (matte)?


----------



## darisito

Are there any new (good) hardware calibrated profiles anyone did? I think the old ones are from last year? Maybe in the meantime slightly different panels have been shipped and someone can provide a "current" hardware calibrated profile (96hz, matte) for me?


----------



## Abadaman

Ok guys, so here are the pictures, i wanna say that pictures were taken with LG G2 phone that has ISO on auto and really intesifies the overall light emanated from the screen:

First one is from up close, like 1 feet+-:

Second picture was taken from 6.5 feet:

This one is 6.5feet zoomed in:

And this is under normal conditons in a dark room up close


Problem is i dont know if this is normal IPS/PLS glow, or something wrong with the panel, as you can see the glow totally dissapears when i move back from the monitor.
Can you tell me if this is normal or not, or maybe i just forgot how bad my previous TN panel color reproduction, color shift, view angles was, as i sold it because all i do now is trying to find some imperfections

Also it was almost dark, but this is what the phone did with the low light coming from outside


----------



## Forceman

That looks like textbook IPS glow to me, at least in the bottom corners. Harder to tell what is happening along the top.


----------



## Deluxe

I've noticed my 970 doesn't downclock on desktop @ 100 Hz, while my 780 did.. (it wouldn't at 120 Hz either)
Anyone know a fix for that?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Ok guys, so here are the pictures, i wanna say that pictures were taken with LG G2 phone that has ISO on auto and really intesifies the overall light emanated from the screen:
> 
> First one is from up close, like 1 feet+-:
> 
> Second picture was taken from 6.5 feet:
> 
> This one is 6.5feet zoomed in:
> 
> And this is under normal conditons in a dark room up close
> 
> 
> Problem is i dont know if this is normal IPS/PLS glow, or something wrong with the panel, as you can see the glow totally dissapears when i move back from the monitor.
> Can you tell me if this is normal or not, or maybe i just forgot how bad my previous TN panel color reproduction, color shift, view angles was, as i sold it because all i do now is trying to find some imperfections
> 
> Also it was almost dark, but this is what the phone did with the low light coming from outside


That is identical to normal IPS glow and BLB. See images of IPS glow here http://goo.gl/qlVLCy

Oh, and no two IPS glow or even BLB seem to be exactly the same, so your pattern could be different. Its the bright colors and pixel density that make these panels so nice.


----------



## Abadaman

what is textbook glow? it dissapears when i sit back, its just a little bit distracting when playing dark games from up close, nothing bad at all


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> what is textbook glow? it dissapears when i sit back, its just a little bit distracting when playing dark games from up close, nothing bad at all


It is light bleed and glow from the screen causing light to shine out at an extreme angle. Because it is bouncing off the screen you only see it at the right distance because at different angles the light is refracting away from your heads position. If you move around the room at different distances you will see it fade in and out at varying brightness levels, again because of the way it is bouncing off the surface of the screen. This has been a common problem of flat panels ever since they were first invented. The more money you spend the less you should notice it because those are Grade-A or Grade-A+ panels, who were tested to be perfect, or near perfect. Once built all panels are tested and graded, once they recieve a grade they go off into the direction intended for, either for expensive models and shipped to either Apple, Dell, etc etc, or all the way down to Grade A- status and sold to Qnix (I do not know if there are Grades below A-, B,C,D,F, but I suppose those would be recycled). My Dell UltraSharp has almost zero of this, but it was also $800.


----------



## Abadaman

Someone told me that this corner glow at close distance of 27" ips panels is normal and only brands like eizo and nec with polarizer dont have this corner glow, so this is not true at all?


----------



## sinnedone

Is there anything detrimental to running your qnix at full brightness all the time?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Someone told me that this corner glow at close distance of 27" ips panels is normal and only brands like eizo and nec with polarizer dont have this corner glow, so this is not true at all?


Sounds like a fair statement dont it? All good brands who ask high prices are going to be limited on corner glow. Otherwise they wouldn't be able to sell them. Eizo will not put A- panels into their product, neither will Apple or Dell or HP, etc.

What monitor does not have a polarizer layer or two?


----------



## Abadaman

so is this corner glow at 1.5-2 feet distance issue at all? is this a defect? truth be told i never sit that close anyway, just noticed it in a pitch black room few days ago while there was black color. I dont know if i got bad qnix or its just ,,normal'', as i see now i dont have backlight bleeding at all when i look from 5-6 feet away , no dead pixel, just two grey pixels that are almost invisible and thats it


----------



## castlefire

Just got My X-Star from Dream Seller. all i have to say wow. got perfect pixel which took him an extra 3 days but i have to say perfect.No panel play ( hard as a rock. and also NO back bleed


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *castlefire*
> 
> Just got My X-Star from Dream Seller. all i have to say wow. got perfect pixel which took him an extra 3 days but i have to say perfect.No panel play ( hard as a rock. and also NO back bleed


Mmm, that looks good. I am hoping AccessoriesWhole gets back to me. I told them my problem and QNIX said it was a faulty PCB. Maybe they'll send me one.


----------



## castlefire

It took 2 weeks for delivery order on 10th got an email on 11th that it would ship out 17th shipped out 19th and got home today. well worth the wait for a perfect pixel monitor


----------



## Dry Bonez

Got my Qnix in yesterday for only a whopping days of waiting lol. Hooked it up to my GTX 580 and is working awesomeness.ONLY 2 things i wanna say that i find negative, 1: the stand is super wobbly but it shouldnt matter because noone should be moving there monitor in the first place. 2: with my luck,i have a dead pixel in the very middle that is quite bothering me and i have to get used to it. i didnt get the pixel perfect







thinking i would get lucky like others.

one thing i wanna point out to others as well as a tip.i didnt see this in the OP so i will make it clear now. I was having a hard time OC'ing it but wasnt able to on Windows 8.1 due to the fact that i had to disable a feature that lets me sign unsigned drivers. So for those who are on Windows 8.1,theres a tutorial on how to disable that feature so that you can install the driver for the monitor because without it you wont be able to OC.

Another thing,i am coming from a VA penel,which was the Playstation 3d Display,and not going to lie,it had better colors as far as i can see.But can i change the colors on this thing? or am i the only one facing this issue? I have an Nvidia GTX 580


----------



## hutt132

Can I hook the QX2710 to a DVI-I port on my graphics card? This pictures says DVI-I is dual-link: http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server5900/5eyx43h/product_images/uploaded_images/7801.dvid.gif


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *castlefire*
> 
> Just got My X-Star from Dream Seller. all i have to say wow. got perfect pixel which took him an extra 3 days but i have to say perfect.No panel play ( hard as a rock. and also NO back bleed


Congratulations on the perfect pixel. I finally picked up my panel, but its a IPS instead.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> so is this corner glow at 1.5-2 feet distance issue at all? is this a defect?


Yes its a defect, which is normal for Qnix monitors, especially for the SE versions. If the seller you got it from has guaranteed no defects, no blacklight bleed or no dead pixels, then you need to contact him and complain that your unhappy.

If I got this monitor I would be expecting all these defects out of the box, and consider myself lucky if I didn't get any of them.


----------



## castlefire

Overall im very happy, I ordered a Vesa Mount, but not sure if im going to take out the leg just the foot. I dont want to open it up and **** something up.
Ill just leave the stand when i mount to vesa mount.
I wish i did a unboxing but too many on YouTube

this is how the x-star came


no foam around the box...... but no dents thanks fedEX

But i know Dream-Seller took care of that

Out of every video ive seen none came with padding on the LED screen

Overall MOnitor is perfect but stand sucks we all know that, but we all paid $330.00 and no *****ing


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> Can I hook the QX2710 to a DVI-I port on my graphics card? This pictures says DVI-I is dual-link: http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server5900/5eyx43h/product_images/uploaded_images/7801.dvid.gif


Dvi-d only.


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Dvi-d only.


I just checked which port it's currently plugged into on my current card. It's plugged into DVI-I and working fine at 120Hz.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Dvi-d only.


DVI-I is both Dual Link Digital and Analog signal capable.
DVI-D is Dual Link Digital ONLY, no Analog.

So, if the cable fits your video card and your card is only DVI-I, then it works. Same exact signal is being sent through the same exact pin locations. There is no reason on Earth why it wouldn't work, except for maybe a low quality cable which is a given no matter what version DVI it is. You just need DVI-D or above, which is DVI-I.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I am hoping AccessoriesWhole gets back to me. I told them my problem and QNIX said it was a faulty PCB. Maybe they'll send me one.


QNIX told you its a bad PCB? How did you find Qnix? Or do you mean DisplayLand or X-Star?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> Can I hook the QX2710 to a DVI-I port on my graphics card? This pictures says DVI-I is dual-link: http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server5900/5eyx43h/product_images/uploaded_images/7801.dvid.gif


Yes, you can but just because you have DVI-D or DVI-I does not mean it will work. The mainboard on this bypass monitor still needs specific video cards. I have a 5870 which was one of the best cards back a few years ago, with two DVI-D ports, yet it is not compatible, not fully anyway.

You just have to try and be prepared just in case it does not work.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> QNIX told you its a bad PCB? How did you find Qnix? Or do you mean DisplayLand or X-Star?


I think I may have misread the email but this is what the seller told me:

"QNIX suggested to try another port (DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort) and cable.
If another port and cable can't solve the problem, then the PCB board inside the monitor is faulty."

I'm really hoping they offer to send me a new one, they aren't cheap. :|


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I think I may have misread the email but this is what the seller told me:
> 
> "QNIX suggested to try another port (DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort) and cable.
> If another port and cable can't solve the problem, then the PCB board inside the monitor is faulty."
> 
> I'm really hoping they offer to send me a new one, they aren't cheap. :|


New monitor or new mainboard for the monitor? I doubt they will send a new monitor. They want us to be our own repair men, lol...


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> New monitor or new mainboard for the monitor? I doubt they will send a new monitor. They want us to be our own repair men, lol...


PCB for monitor. I'm more than happy to do the repairs myself.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> PCB for monitor. I'm more than happy to do the repairs myself.


Yeah same here. I'd ask them for two boards though... lol


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah same here. I'd ask them for two boards though... lol


I wonder if they would send me two..?


----------



## Aerione

Oh, great timing, I was having some issues with the PCB myself.

So, I was wondering if anyone knows if the PCBs between the True10(multi-port) and non-True10(DVI-D only) are interchangeable?
I accidentally bought a True10 monitor and found out that it's not overclockable. However, the monitor's PCB broke down a month after purchase, so Qnix is offering me a replacement PCB.
I'm considering asking them for the other version of the PCB if anyone can confirm this.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aerione*
> 
> Oh, great timing, I was having some issues with the PCB myself.
> 
> So, I was wondering if anyone knows if the PCBs between the True10(multi-port) and non-True10(DVI-D only) are interchangeable?
> I accidentally bought a True10 monitor and found out that it's not overclockable. However, the monitor's PCB broke down a month after purchase, so Qnix is offering me a replacement PCB.
> I'm considering asking them for the other version of the PCB if anyone can confirm this.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Looks to me like they have the same connections to the panel. Maybe I should ask them.


----------



## darthdirty

OMG!!! i just got my X-Star(finally) and it looks great... no dead pixels and i dont see any BLB


----------



## castlefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> OMG!!! i just got my X-Star(finally) and it looks great... no dead pixels and i dont see any BLB


from what seller btw go watch some 4k video and bf3 or 4


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> so is this corner glow at 1.5-2 feet distance issue at all? is this a defect? truth be told i never sit that close anyway, just noticed it in a pitch black room few days ago while there was black color. I dont know if i got bad qnix or its just ,,normal'', as i see now i dont have backlight bleeding at all when i look from 5-6 feet away , no dead pixel, just two grey pixels that are almost invisible and thats it


The corner glow is normal, and all IPS panels have it. There's nothing you can do about it. Backlight bleed, where light is coming from around the frame, is a different thing that is a kind of defect.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *castlefire*
> 
> from what seller btw go watch some 4k video and bf3 or 4


dreamseller


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *castlefire*
> 
> from what seller btw go watch some 4k video and bf3 or 4


watch it where???


----------



## pLuhhmm

checking in after a year. no issues, still 120Hz. stock legs.


----------



## Abadaman

Now im quite distracted, some of you say that corner glow at close distance(that which dissapears when you move back to lets say 2.5-3 feet) is normal for ips panels, others are telling me thats a defect. I dont know now, but id reallylove to see an ips/pls panel from like 1.5-2 feet in a pitch black room that doesnt have this on pure black color. I just dont have another ips panel to compare with


----------



## bluedevil

Getting pretty frustrated with all this AMD driver patching, as well as having to use CRU to get my Qnix running at 92hz. Thinking pretty soon it might be time for a GTX 970, for simplicity and less power draw.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Getting pretty frustrated with all this AMD driver patching, as well as having to use CRU to get my Qnix running at 92hz. Thinking pretty soon it might be time for a GTX 970, for simplicity and less power draw.


You could probably also patch your EDID and add the resolutions you like natively.


----------



## adamCCC

Hi,

I was hoping someone could give me some advice. Just got my QNIX, no dead pixels etc but the whole screen is sort of flickering with dark patch appearing.

It looks perfect, then there will be some screen flickering (more like colour changes, not flickering in the normal sense, its almost like the brightness going up and down) which results in a big section at the bottom of the screen in the middle looking like a black shadow. It basically looks like the opposite of regular back light bleed.

Please tell me there is a way I can fix this!


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> checking in after a year. no issues, still 120Hz. stock legs.


Freaking awesome!!!!!!


----------



## Dry Bonez

URGENT! (For me and maybe others)
ok guys,im actually about to head to work but i wanna let you guys know if this is a good idea for these monitors.
Alright,so i have a dead pixel and its green,right in the center of the screen that is really getting on my nerves as much as i try to ignore it but its hard when its in the middle. so i woke up today and googled how to get rid of them,and there was this particular video that all it does non tstop is show solid colors and flashes them rapidly and this supposedly has helped many people according to what i read in the comments. has anyone tried this with these monitors?
Another tip i saw was basically poking the actual pixel with a tip of something.

Can someone please reply and let me know because im sure others will encounter this and will look for a solution(BESIDES buying PIXEL perfect).


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamCCC*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I was hoping someone could give me some advice. Just got my QNIX, no dead pixels etc but the whole screen is sort of flickering with dark patch appearing.
> 
> It looks perfect, then there will be some screen flickering (more like colour changes, not flickering in the normal sense, its almost like the brightness going up and down) which results in a big section at the bottom of the screen in the middle looking like a black shadow. It basically looks like the opposite of regular back light bleed.
> 
> Please tell me there is a way I can fix this!


You probably can't. I had one that came out of the box like that, and a second that did exactly what yours is doing, flickered for a while then went out completely. I think it is just a bad LED or bad controller, either way I don't think it is fixable. I would contact the seller and try to get it exchanged - I was able to return both of mine no problem, with seller paid shipping.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> checking in after a year. no issues, still 120Hz. stock legs.


What timings are you using?


----------



## adamCCC

noo, dont say that, theres bound to be something i can try!


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Now im quite distracted, some of you say that corner glow at close distance(that which dissapears when you move back to lets say 2.5-3 feet) is normal for ips panels, others are telling me thats a defect. I dont know now, but id reallylove to see an ips/pls panel from like 1.5-2 feet in a pitch black room that doesnt have this on pure black color. I just dont have another ips panel to compare with


You cant just take a pic of an IPS monitor. It exacerbates lighting and makes normal bleed look much worse.

Here are 2 correct backlight bleed and IPS glow monitors side by side. IPS vs PLS. IPS and PLS are basically the same thing. One is Samsung panel on the qx2710 and the other is LG34um95

So you can see a normal dark room pic makes these monitors look defective although they are not. Brightness set to 50%.

http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/funfordcobra/media/Mobile Uploads/20140925_101013.jpg.html

Here are the same 2 monitors how I see them. It's much more accurate via video to determine backlight bleed and IPS glow. As you can see when I chase the light with the camera, it disappears. That is IPS glow. It can vary by manufacturer.






If it's distracting you from games and movies, it's a defect...No matter what anyone else says. I had to exchange the LG monitor ($1000 monitor) 4 times before I got one that I liked. LG stated that it was acceptable backlight bleed to them and I could set up an RMA , but they would just send it back with an "in spec" sheet.


----------



## Abadaman

So the corner glow (took a picture from close distance) is not a defect? The picture makes it worse, it is not that noticeable in an eye.


This one is from few feet away, the corner glow dissapears completely


And heres picture in normal conditions


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Just ordered a pixel perfect Qnix 27" 2560 x 1440 off of amazon today for 350$ Super excited!


----------



## funfordcobra

Yes that's normal. If it bothers you, it will decrease if you turn the brightness down.


----------



## Aerione

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Looks to me like they have the same connections to the panel. Maybe I should ask them.


I checked with them and they said that the two versions have PCBs of different size and internal cables. Don't know whether this is true or not.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> checking in after a year. no issues, still 120Hz. stock legs.
> 
> 
> 
> What timings are you using?
Click to expand...

stock.

the only thing i've done is set 120Hz custom resolution within Nvidia control panel and installed the catleap driver from 120hz.net or w/e.


----------



## adamCCC

how do people find the colours ingame? for example in a dark environment in battlefield 4, its almost glowing grey in the corners etc and so hard to see?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Games usually have a ingame menu gamma correction feature so you can tune the brightness of the monitor to the level the developers intended you to play at. It should make it easier to see in dark scenes. Once the game quits it goes back to whatever brightness level you use the OS at.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aerione*
> 
> Oh, great timing, I was having some issues with the PCB myself.
> 
> So, I was wondering if anyone knows if the PCBs between the True10(multi-port) and non-True10(DVI-D only) are interchangeable?
> I accidentally bought a True10 monitor and found out that it's not overclockable. However, the monitor's PCB broke down a month after purchase, so Qnix is offering me a replacement PCB.
> I'm considering asking them for the other version of the PCB if anyone can confirm this.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


How on earth did you get QNIX to offer you a new PCB !?!
Mine broke after 10 days and I got nowhere in terms of contact.
My seller was absolutely dreadful (ta-korea.global - didn't know about this site at the time), don't touch them with a barge pole.
Please please help, PM me the address if you don't want to share it here.
At the moment I've got a £250 black box ;-)

Cheers!


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You probably can't. I had one that came out of the box like that, and a second that did exactly what yours is doing, flickered for a while then went out completely. I think it is just a bad LED or bad controller, either way I don't think it is fixable. I would contact the seller and try to get it exchanged - I was able to return both of mine no problem, with seller paid shipping.


By "bad controller", do you mean bad PCB? Or the inverter board on the panel ?
Cheers!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> How on earth did you get QNIX to offer you a new PCB !?!
> Mine broke after 10 days and I got nowhere in terms of contact.
> My seller was absolutely dreadful (ta-korea.global - didn't know about this site at the time), don't touch them with a barge pole.
> Please please help, PM me the address if you don't want to share it here.
> At the moment I've got a £250 black box ;-)
> 
> Cheers!


Its usually the sellers that are willing to replace them, if they can get them, in order to quickly resolve the situation (its much cheaper on them). However, other sellers will usually ask you if you purchased the monitor from them, and if not you may not get anywhere. If your seller didn't try than they are not one of the recommended ones, such as bigclothcraft, AccessoriesWhole or storewithstorey. I tried with the last one and they said if I purchased it from them they would contact the manufacturer and see if they can get them for me. I didn't reply since I obviously have not purchased one from them.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Its usually the sellers that are willing to replace them, if they can get them, in order to quickly resolve the situation (its much cheaper on them). However, other sellers will usually ask you if you purchased the monitor from them, and if not you may not get anywhere. If your seller didn't try than they are not one of the recommended ones, such as bigclothcraft, AccessoriesWhole or storewithstorey. I tried with the last one and they said if I purchased it from them they would contact the manufacturer and see if they can get them for me. I didn't reply since I obviously have not purchased one from them.


Thanks.
So is the 1 year warranty (lol) with the manufacturer or the seller?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Thanks.
> So is the 1 year warranty (lol) with the manufacturer or the seller?


As far as I understand, I think it is through the seller, so long as they are a certified distributor. Both x-star and qnix are just brand names of DisplayLand. I can't get the qnix website to work, but if your interested here is the star website. Maybe you can call them and pray they have someone who speaks your language enough to get you in contact with Displayland or Qnix.

http://www.diple.co.kr/main/?skin=index.html

Remember, this is one of the downsides of buying into Korean monitors as your research should have warned you. That is why I purchased my panel from a US seller and going to build my own. I just do not trust any of these Korean monitors. lol


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> By "bad controller", do you mean bad PCB? Or the inverter board on the panel ?
> Cheers!


Whichever part controls the LED lighting strip. I looked at the teardown videos to see if it might be possible to do something to fix mine (in case it was just a loose connection or something) but it didn't look like any of the lighting was really user accessible.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Whichever part controls the LED lighting strip. I looked at the teardown videos to see if it might be possible to do something to fix mine (in case it was just a loose connection or something) but it didn't look like any of the lighting was really user accessible.


Yeah I agree, it looks more like the LED backlighting is controlled by the PCB board that is directly connected to the panel underneath the metal casing. It does not look to be user serviceable part. However, maybe you could continuity test the LED's, make sure the entire circuit is intact, then simply find the supply voltage traces, cut them, and bypass the LED driver controller with your own circuit, voltage and a toggle switch? lol, LED driver boards are in numerous supply.

I think I could do that, but first I would have to find the nerve to open the panel that extensively. Haha


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah I agree, it looks more like the LED backlighting is controlled by the PCB board that is directly connected to the panel underneath the metal casing. It does not look to be user serviceable part. However, maybe you could continuity test the LED's, make sure the entire circuit is intact, then simply find the supply voltage traces, cut them, and bypass the LED driver controller with your own circuit, voltage and a toggle switch? lol, LED driver boards are in numerous supply.
> 
> I think I could do that, but first I would have to find the nerve to open the panel that extensively. Haha


You talking about this part?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> You talking about this part?


Yeah, I wish he would have gotten a closeup pic of the sticker on that thing. However, without seeing first hand I have no idea how it attaches to the panel. Maybe it is replaceable. If its just a backlighting problem though, id just bypass the LED driver, and install my own. But without looking at it with my own eyes I have no clue if its possible. But my point is, its just a strip of LED's, so how hard could it be to bypass the circuit, and install your own? Hmm

Maybe candlepowerforums could help you answer that question?


----------



## Phantatsy

The seller I bought my monitor from just told me to ship them my faulty PCB and they'd send me a new one. Too bad they're in Korea and its gunna be a pretty penny to ship it to them.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> The seller I bought my monitor from just told me to ship them my faulty PCB and they'd send me a new one. Too bad they're in Korea and its gunna be a pretty penny to ship it to them.


Really? Use the USPS Shipnow and the address and assumed weight, and get a quote. I ship my programming cables to almost every country and its never been more than $6.16. Bubble wrap it 1 layer, and put it into a bubble mailer and use First Class International.

I just got a online price of $15 for a 16 ounce package, shipped first class with automated tracking. Surely it doesn't weigh that much, does it?

Or calculate using this, and claim $1 value
http://ircalc.usps.com/Default.aspx?country=10234&MailingDate=9/26/2014&MailingTime=8:00%20AM


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Really? Use the USPS Shipnow and the address and assumed weight, and get a quote. I ship my programming cables to almost every country and its never been more than $6.16. Bubble wrap it 1 layer, and put it into a bubble mailer and use First Class International.
> 
> I just got a online price of $15 for a 16 ounce package, shipped first class with automated tracking. Surely it doesn't weigh that much, does it?
> 
> Or calculate using this, and claim $1 value
> http://ircalc.usps.com/Default.aspx?country=10234&MailingDate=9/26/2014&MailingTime=8:00%20AM


Trying it now, will see shipping costs when I'm done.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Trying it now, will see shipping costs when I'm done.


Ok, cool. Do you already have an idea of the size and weight of the PCB? If not the weight, you can ask the clerk at USPS to weight it for you if your not at a busy station. Usually they will just make you move over while they help others. I got myself a USPS scale to avoid that though, lol.

Unless the seller wants you to send in some special way, DHL or something, I wouldn't use something like that. Not only is First Class cheap but the first class form gives you everything you need including automated tracking, and the service really is fantastic for what you get. Of course not as good as FedEx or DHL but if you want to save money, that is the way to go. One thing I might do in your case is spring the little extra for a signature confirmation of delivery, lol. I would even take photos of the package, the shipping label and even the PCB partly sticking out of the envelope. I do that for countries I'm not too sure about.

If you want a much better service, go for DHL which will cost you $59 total for a large padded express envelope and it will be there this Monday (that is your Sunday) in the hands of the seller guaranteed. I assumed 1 lb.


----------



## BiN4RY

Just wondering, but what exactly is the physical limiting factor when it comes to overclocking these monitors? Is it the panel itself, the LCD controller, or something else??


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiN4RY*
> 
> Just wondering, but what exactly is the physical limiting factor when it comes to overclocking these monitors? Is it the panel itself, the LCD controller, or something else??


Pixel clock and quality of the bypass board. I believe are the two main factors


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Ok, cool. Do you already have an idea of the size and weight of the PCB? If not the weight, you can ask the clerk at USPS to weight it for you if your not at a busy station. Usually they will just make you move over while they help others. I got myself a USPS scale to avoid that though, lol.
> 
> Unless the seller wants you to send in some special way, DHL or something, I wouldn't use something like that. Not only is First Class cheap but the first class form gives you everything you need including automated tracking, and the service really is fantastic for what you get. Of course not as good as FedEx or DHL but if you want to save money, that is the way to go. One thing I might do in your case is spring the little extra for a signature confirmation of delivery, lol. I would even take photos of the package, the shipping label and even the PCB partly sticking out of the envelope. I do that for countries I'm not too sure about.
> 
> If you want a much better service, go for DHL which will cost you $59 total for a large padded express envelope and it will be there this Monday (that is your Sunday) in the hands of the seller guaranteed. I assumed 1 lb.


Yeah it's around 1 lb. The seller only specified this:
"If possible, please kindly send it by registered mail (with a tracking number) just in case it will be lost."

USPS padded flat rate to Korea is ~$26


----------



## bluedevil

Thinking of ditching my 290 for a 970, shall I?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Thinking of ditching my 290 for a 970, shall I?


I'm in the same boat. Looking to drop 280x crossfire for a 970. Decisions, decisions.


----------



## doctakedooty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Thinking of ditching my 290 for a 970, shall I?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> I'm in the same boat. Looking to drop 280x crossfire for a 970. Decisions, decisions.


Btw hey bluedevil got you on my origin friends for bf4 but if I may chime in I am not a fan boy of either I was of nvidia and still own 3 780ti and a 295x2 which I am doing a mini itx build around and I enjoy my 295x2 over my 780ti right now. My 2 cents though are wait a bit and see what amd brings to the table with nvidia doing some pretty impressive pri cing around this time with the 900 series compared to there 700 series I would see what amd brings to the table in the next 2 months and price wise we may see another slight price drop on nvidias side depending on amds price and performance. Just my 2 cents of course and I myself always want the best and greatest when it comes out but the 900 series just isnt blowing me away at the moment to want to jump aboard until I see what amd does in response.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Yeah it's around 1 lb. The seller only specified this:
> "If possible, please kindly send it by registered mail (with a tracking number) just in case it will be lost."
> 
> USPS padded flat rate to Korea is ~$26


Registered mail is for high security valuable items that absolutely must not get lost, such as government documents, or extremely hard to replace items, not a broken piece of worthless electronics with a few bucks of components on it. I'd send it first class with tracking (which you always get anyway) and delivery confirmation. Its a broken PCB that they will toss into a box with other broken PCB's. Or Priority Mail International, which is actually better in this situation.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Thinking of ditching my 290 for a 970, shall I?


if you need something it uses then yes, it looks like it might perform a little less than a 290 though. Might went to wait until members start posting benchmarks to see if its worth it.


----------



## kapnobatai

Hi guys, I'm new here and although I searched the thread (unbelievable many posts), still have couple of questions, please:

- does anyone used the Qnix with a 7950 boost dual-x from Sapphire (available outputs being 1 x HDMI, 2 x Mini-DisplayPort and 1 x Dual-Link DVI-I)? I plan to upgrade, but until then, I'd like to buy the monitor, even if I'll have to stick with 1080p for games (but still wanting 1440p for movies or graphic programs, at 110hz or 120hz)

- if I can use the 7950 boost (I ask because of DVI-D vs DVI-I), will [email protected] 1080p look blurry? I read something about this but I can't find the post any longer

- if I can use the 7950 boost, will 2x7950 boost in crossfire permit to play @1440p? I can get pretty cheap another 7950 boost dual-x

Many thanks!


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm new here and although I searched the thread (unbelievable many posts), still have couple of questions, please:
> 
> - does anyone used the Qnix with a 7950 boost dual-x from Sapphire (available outputs being 1 x HDMI, 2 x Mini-DisplayPort and 1 x Dual-Link DVI-I)? I plan to upgrade, but until then, I'd like to buy the monitor, even if I'll have to stick with 1080p for games (but still wanting 1440p for movies or graphic programs, at 110hz or 120hz)
> 
> - if I can use the 7950 boost (I ask because of DVI-D vs DVI-I), will [email protected] 1080p look blurry? I read something about this but I can't find the post any longer
> 
> - if I can use the 7950 boost, will 2x7950 boost in crossfire permit to play @1440p? I can get pretty cheap another 7950 boost dual-x
> 
> Many thanks!


The QNIX/X-STAR which have the capabilities to overclock to 120Hz only accept DL-DVI-D only. DL-DVI-I is incompatible and will not work.
There are versions of the QNIX/X-STAR that come with DP, HDMI, and DVI-D inputs but they do not overclock to 120Hz.

*edit: With that being said, doing some research it turns out your card doesn't just output DL-DVI-I but instead all forms of DVI. So you can use a DL-DVI-D cable and it will plug into both ends correctly.
Yes you can use the 7950 with 1440p 120Hz Qnix/X-Star.
Blurry / fuzziness is shown when actually using a VGA source and cable. However, your graphics card fully supports DL-DVI-D and there is no need to even consider the extra 4 pins on the DVI port. You can simply ignore them as if they don't exist.*

Buying another 7950 right now would be grounds to admit you to a psych ward when the 970/980 is completely destroying everything else GPU related. Sell the 7950 and get a single 970 + QNIX/STAR and enjoy 1440p 120fps in almost any game.


----------



## Haas360

So the new GTX 980 and 970's only have 1 DVI port. Does this mean I will only be able to run 1 of my 2 Qnix monitors in 120hz mode? Or is it possible to run that over displayport. I believe display port supports it, but will it work


----------



## jameyscott

Some non-reference cards have two.


----------



## exzacklyright

Has anyone needed to diagnose as to why their monitor won't power on? I've replaced the power brick and so I'm guessing it wasn't that. Still no go. Just not sure what else to try. Replacing the PCB via IPSLEDMONITORS could be risky as that might not be the problem.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

DVI-I is dual link. The only difference between them is DVI-D does not have analog, so no possible way to convert it to vga for a old school TV.

DVI-I replaced DVI-D a long time ago in order to support the missing vga port no longer found on video cards, but still found on millions of display devices. This is why you can buy DVI to vga adapters. On DVI-D the vga adapter will not work.

The Korean sellers just don't know how to word their advertisements. It should say dual link DVI-D and DVI-I both work. Lol


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> The QNIX/X-STAR which have the capabilities to overclock to 120Hz only accept DL-DVI-D only. DL-DVI-I is incompatible and will not work.
> There are versions of the QNIX/X-STAR that come with DP, HDMI, and DVI-D inputs but they do not overclock to 120Hz.
> 
> *edit: With that being said, doing some research it turns out your card doesn't just output DL-DVI-I but instead all forms of DVI. So you can use a DL-DVI-D cable and it will plug into both ends correctly.
> Yes you can use the 7950 with 1440p 120Hz Qnix/X-Star.
> Blurry / fuzziness is shown when actually using a VGA source and cable. However, your graphics card fully supports DL-DVI-D and there is no need to even consider the extra 4 pins on the DVI port. You can simply ignore them as if they don't exist.*
> 
> Buying another 7950 right now would be grounds to admit you to a psych ward when the 970/980 is completely destroying everything else GPU related. Sell the 7950 and get a single 970 + QNIX/STAR and enjoy 1440p 120fps in almost any game.


2 7950s can easily, easily best a single 970, which is slower than a 780Ti. I would still go with the 970 and overclock it, but the 7950 CF option is by no means insanity.


----------



## exzacklyright

Does anyone have a picture of their pcb board? I don't know if I connected these black wires back on right.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 2 7950s can easily, easily best a single 970, which is slower than a 780Ti. I would still go with the 970 and overclock it, but the 7950 CF option is by no means insanity.


There is also a 55W difference between a 7950 and 970.
So we're talking about 255W more power on a 7950x2 vs 970x1.

Even though it looks like you can get a used 7950 for $100 on Ebay, that is of course a very used price vs brand spankin' new price, it would be much wiser to keep saving more until a 970 could be purchased and then sell the 7950 and get the 970 for a $100 cheaper.

Much less power usage, much less heat, no CF, and around the same performance.

The highest 3DMark Firestrike score for 7950x2 is 14059.
The highest 3DMark Firestrike score for 970x1 is 13521.
So yea, very similar performance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> DVI-I is dual link. The only difference between them is DVI-D does not have analog, so no possible way to convert it to vga for a old school TV.
> 
> DVI-I replaced DVI-D a long time ago in order to support the missing vga port no longer found on video cards, but still found on millions of display devices. This is why you can buy DVI to vga adapters. On DVI-D the vga adapter will not work.
> 
> The Korean sellers just don't know how to word their advertisements. *It should say dual link DVI-D and DVI-I both work.* Lol


The monitor only accepts a DVI-D input.
A DVI-I cable will have 4 extra pins that the DVI-D input on the monitor won't accept.

Although a DVI-I to DVI-D cable could be used it would beg the question why not just use a more standard and probably cheaper DVI-D to DVI-D cable.


----------



## Krentebol

I've been looking all over amazon and ebay for the last 2 weeks and I think I have found the Monitor I want.
I just want to be sure if this monitor can be overclocked ( I think so).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27inch-Computer-Monitor-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa

Its the cheapest one I can find and its even Perfect Pixel (not that it mattered but just in case, could come in handy).

Any suggestions?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> The monitor only accepts a DVI-D input.
> A DVI-I cable will have 4 extra pins that the DVI-D input on the monitor won't accept.


That is probably why everyone would use the DVI-D cable that comes with the monitor. DVI-D cables have no problem connecting to DVI-I video card connectors. I would think most DVI cables are DVI-D as I never even heard of a DVI-I cable before, although that does not mean it doesn't exist. lol.

Again, the only reason the DVI-I connector is on todays video cards is so you can use the DVI port with an analog device with VGA. If the video card already has a VGA port, then chances are it does not have a DVI-I connector, and only has DVI-D (Why have both ports capable of analog?).

Like this DVI-VGA adapter. I used this for a short while from my computer to the TV's.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814998101


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> That is probably why everyone would use the DVI-D cable that comes with the monitor. DVI-D cables have no problem connecting to DVI-I video card connectors. I would think most DVI cables are DVI-D as I never even heard of a DVI-I cable before, although that does not mean it doesn't exist. lol.
> 
> Again, the only reason the DVI-I connector is on todays video cards is so you can use the DVI port with an analog device with VGA. If the video card already has a VGA port, then chances are it does not have a DVI-I connector, and only has DVI-D (Why have both ports capable of analog?).
> 
> Like this DVI-VGA adapter. I used this for a short while from my computer to the TV's.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814998101


It all comes down to how one words things.
I was just responding to how you said the monitors should state it accepts a DVI-I input when it clearly can't.

I always hated the DVI standard. Way to complicated.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I was just responding to how you said the monitors should state it accepts a DVI-I input when it clearly can't.


I apologize, I did not mean to say it can accept a DVI-I cable, as I am not even sure those exist. It will, or should work with all, or most of today's Dual-Link DVI-I video cards though, which is what I meant, and the Korean sellers do not seem to be making this clear. They just say your video card must be dual-link DVI-D. Then people go check their specs and find a DVI-I dual link connector and think it must not be compatible when it clearly is.

Again, IMO they should be saying It works with all Dual-Link DVI-D and all Dual-Link DVI-I video cards, *when the proper cable is used*. Then they can put in a disclaimer if they want about some cards maybe not being fully compatible, such as my 5870, which has TWO Dual-Link DVI-I connectors. All the sellers tell me in email that it doesn't work on my 5870 card (they even have charts to show it is incompatible), however, youtube videos (and posts in this thread) say otherwise. It is Dual Link DVI and along with the proper cable that should be all that matters.

Here soon I will be testing my 5870 to see if it does or doesn't work. lol


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzacklyright*
> 
> Does anyone have a picture of their pcb board? I don't know if I connected these black wires back on right.


Yeah, those two wires are just ground wires and both should be touching in order to get a common ground. They are both grounded to the metal bracket holding the PCB.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krentebol*
> 
> I've been looking all over amazon and ebay for the last 2 weeks and I think I have found the Monitor I want.
> I just want to be sure if this monitor can be overclocked ( I think so).
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27inch-Computer-Monitor-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa
> 
> Its the cheapest one I can find and its even Perfect Pixel (not that it mattered but just in case, could come in handy).
> 
> Any suggestions?


thats the one and i got and i love it ...just got it wednesday and i dont see any dead pixels and there is very little BLB


----------



## castlefire

Yesterday i order my 2 Way Adjustable Tilting Desk Mount Bracket from monoprice. gotta love over nite shipping for $5.00


----------



## adamCCC

having a bit of trouble with hooking my PC up to TV over hdmi since connecting up my QNIX.

when i select the hdmi input on the TV, it is showing as VGA instead of hdmi, at a crappy resolution (640x420 or something). Now the control panel etc is reporting that this is the tv's maximum resolution.. which it obviously isnt!

please help, i use my pc alot to stream content to the tv


----------



## kaspar737

Should I pay extra for my Qnix if sellers allows free DOA return shipping, or will 100% testing which most sellers do guarantee that I won't get a DOA monitor?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaspar737*
> 
> Should I pay extra for my Qnix if sellers allows free DOA return shipping, or will 100% testing which most sellers do guarantee that I won't get a DOA monitor?


Which seller are you referring to? Others might be able to share their experience with you.

In other news, I finally saved up to buy another Qnix. Looking at Accessorieswhole, but do others recommend different vendors? I'll be getting the Square Trade warranty just in case my Qnix decides to die an earlier death yet again. I bought my first Qnix used, so I didn't have any long term insurance, but this time will be different.


----------



## kaspar737

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Which seller are you referring to? Others might be able to share their experience with you.
> 
> In other news, I finally saved up to buy another Qnix. Looking at Accessorieswhole, but do others recommend different vendors? I'll be getting the Square Trade warranty just in case my Qnix decides to die an earlier death yet again. I bought my first Qnix used, so I didn't have any long term insurance, but this time will be different.


A seller called euroinside. Although they don't even offer 1 year of warranty, so I guess I am not going to do business with them.


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> I've noticed my 970 doesn't downclock on desktop @ 100 Hz, while my 780 did.. (it wouldn't at 120 Hz either)
> Anyone know a fix for that?


Bump! Noone with 970/980 noticed this?


----------



## Krentebol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> thats the one and i got and i love it ...just got it wednesday and i dont see any dead pixels and there is very little BLB


But can you overclock this one to 120Hz (if you have a lucky monitor)


----------



## gnet158

Soon to be a member of the Qnix club, ordered a QNIX QX320QHD Super Ultra Lite 32". I'll let everyone know how it goes. Can't wait until it arrives.


----------



## castlefire

i think overall if anyone buy a new monitor, make sure your GPU can handle the res


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krentebol*
> 
> But can you overclock this one to 120Hz (if you have a lucky monitor)


To be honest I scared to OC. Don't want to mess it up. No luck when it comes to OC anything


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Some update on this:
> 
> I got it working under Windows 8.1 as well now.
> 
> It took modifying the EDID to fake an 'HDMI-a' connection. I created the new EDID binary under Windows and then flashed it under Linux with help of the eeprom module and the i2cset tool.
> 
> Now Windows supports up to 300MHz single-link connections! 300MHz seems to be the HDMI PixelClock Limit on Windows and Linux.
> Also added a 40Hz QHD detailed mode to EDID, now the Monitor is even working at bootup, which wasn't working before (probably since the PixelClock is too high for BIOS @ SingleLink).
> 
> My HQ-cable arrived, but it looks like it's not much better or even a bit worse than the cheap cable. It's also very possible that the Intel TDMS chip or the electronic in the Qnix is hitting the limit.
> 
> 70Hz single link still looks good.
> 
> Do you guys know if 70Mhz single link is putting the same strain as 140MHz dual-link on the electronics? I guess the panel itself should be fine?! Would be great to know how this works out and if 24/7 on 60Hz single-link should be safe.


Can anyone comment on this?

I can't really find anything @ Google.

Should 60Hz Single Link operation be safe for 24/7? In how far is the electronic affected by this?

Normally, you have 60Hz achieved by two streams (Dual Link DVI); now using only one stream, I would imagine some part of the PCB has to work twice as hard?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Can anyone comment on this?
> 
> I can't really find anything @ Google.
> 
> Should 60Hz Single Link operation be safe for 24/7? In how far is the electronic affected by this?
> 
> Normally, you have 60Hz achieved by two streams (Dual Link DVI); now using only one stream, I would imagine some part of the PCB has to work twice as hard?


I won't act like I know much about this topic, but I would think using 70hz single link at 1440p would not go over very well. If you had set the res to 1200P than I think that would be OK, otherwise you might be right, something is over working. However, wouldn't that something be the video card?

I have no clue how its even working at 1440P. I thought single link was limited to 1200p max, regardless of freq? See, I told you I know little about this... lol

EDIT, I just realized you can't do 1200P on these 16:9 monitors, so it must be 1080P limit for single link on 16:9 displays?


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I won't act like I know much about this topic, but I would think using 70hz single link at 1440p would not go over very well. If you had set the res to 1200P than I think that would be OK, otherwise you might be right, something is over working. However, wouldn't that something be the video card?
> 
> I have no clue how its even working at 1440P. I thought single link was limited to 1200p max, regardless of freq? See, I told you I know little about this... lol
> 
> EDIT, I just realized you can't do 1200P on these 16:9 monitors, so it must be 1080P limit for single link on 16:9 displays?


Pretty sure it's just limited by the PixelClock = Bandwidth used. So you could probably do even 4k resolution at very low Hz.

I connected it to the HDMI port of the Intel HD4600, which supports up to 300MHz PixelClock. So the GPU should be fine, as DVI Single link is pretty much the same as HDMI.

I'm really more worried about the Qnix.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Pretty sure it's just limited by the PixelClock = Bandwidth used. So you could probably do even 4k resolution at very low Hz.
> 
> I connected it to the HDMI port of the Intel HD4600, which supports up to 300MHz PixelClock. So the GPU should be fine, as DVI Single link is pretty much the same as HDMI.
> 
> I'm really more worried about the Qnix.


So, do you think the TCON board might be overworking itself? I wasn't aware these monitors would even come on with nothing but true dual link signals, let alone adjust itself for the lack of Dual Link? Do you have the scalar (multi inputs) version of this monitor?

Your right, Google seems to be useless for this topic, lol.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> So, do you think the TCON board might be overworking itself? I wasn't aware these monitors would even come on with nothing but true dual link signals, let alone adjust itself for the lack of Dual Link? Do you have the scalar (multi inputs) version of this monitor?
> 
> Your right, Google seems to be useless for this topic, lol.


No, I have the overclockable version with DVI input only. There have been reports before that it works with Single Link DVI. But no specifics in how far this is healthy for the QNIX.

TCON board?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> No, I have the overclockable version with DVI input only. There have been reports before that it works with Single Link DVI. But no specifics in how far this is healthy for the QNIX.


Hmm, then I guess you are the worlds first Qnix 1440p single-link guinea pig. lol

You plan on getting some kind of support from the seller or Qnix? Or buying a new PCB set?


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Hmm, then I guess you are the worlds first Qnix 1440p single-link guinea pig. lol
> 
> You plan on getting some kind of support from the seller or Qnix? Or buying a new PCB set?


haha,
Support?

I am fine running it at 60Hz, don't really need it any faster. I just hope that this won't shorten the lifespan significantly.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> haha,
> Support?
> 
> I am fine running it at 60Hz, don't really need it any faster. I just hope that this won't shorten the lifespan significantly.


I wonder if its possible to ask this question directly of DisplayLand? OR, maybe Samsung techs? Maybe you can ask Samsung about one of their current 1440p monitors with this same panel tech, and tell them it is working but only in single link mode, and see if they think the lifespan would be limited. It may not be exactly the same thing considering DisplayLand is the manufacturer of the Monitors board, but it should still give a rough idea.

Just shooting out ideas...


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I wonder if its possible to ask this question directly of DisplayLand? OR, maybe Samsung techs? Maybe you can ask Samsung about one of their current 1440p monitors with this same panel tech, and tell them it is working but only in single link mode, and see if they think the lifespan would be limited. It may not be exactly the same thing considering DisplayLand is the manufacturer of the Monitors board, but it should still give a rough idea.
> 
> Just shooting out ideas...


I like your ideas








Just imagine a bored Samsung engineer who is sitting at his desk. He's got 2 hours left until he can go home. While he's waiting, he gets an email asking about Samsung's PLS panel compatibility with single link DVI mode. Provided that the person who asks is knowledgeable about this area, this could lead to an interesting conversation.
Or I guess I'm day dreaming too much


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I like your ideas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just imagine a bored Samsung engineer who is sitting at his desk. He's got 2 hours left until he can go home. While he's waiting, he gets an email asking about Samsung's PLS panel compatibility with single link DVI mode. Provided that the person who asks is knowledgeable about this area, this could lead to an interesting conversation.
> Or I guess I'm day dreaming too much












Now the question is, how do we get a direct contact to an Samsung engineer?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the question is, how do we get a direct contact to an Samsung engineer?


The best i found is this page http://displaysolutions.samsung.com/aboutUs/contactUs?method=list

I doubt that will directly connect you with a display engineer though. Maybe a sales rep.

Chances would be better if you know someone who works at Samsung that could lead you to the right people


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Chances would be better if you know someone who works at Samsung that could lead you to the right people


Like maybe Eddie Castillo, the Technical Support guy for Samsung North America?

[email protected]

Now you have to get your story straight, like so.
Quote:


> Hi Eddie, I got this Samsung PLS monitor (insert model here), used and no warranty, but have a question for you anyway. See, this is my situation Eddie (insert detailed situation here, replacing the Qnix/Model name with the Samsung/Model name and hope the answer is somewhat meaningful). Now Eddie, do you think this is harming my monitor and if so any guess as to how long it may last in this condition? Please inform me of what, if anything, I can do further to make this monitor last longer.
> 
> Oh, and one last thing, is it possible to get access to the certified Samsung PCB kit, at reduced cost, so I can fix this monitor myself? No? OK, I thought I might as well try. Thanks anyway Eddie.
> 
> Best Regards
> Mr. Freezer2k


LOL


----------



## MelonSplitter

Seems like I lost my Asus PB278Q 96 hz profile when I upgraded my GTX 770 to a GTX 970. The profile will not install. Any help?


----------



## jameyscott

I can't help,. but the PB278Q can overclock?  Have you verified that it isn't skipping frames?


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> I can't help,. but the PB278Q can overclock?  Have you verified that it isn't skipping frames?


Sorry I wasn't clear. I have the Qnix 2710 monitor that I'm trying to reinstall the PB278Q icc profile. It won't load for some reason.


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> Sorry I wasn't clear. I have the Qnix 2710 monitor that I'm trying to reinstall the PB278Q icc profile. It won't load for some reason.


It wouldn't be helpful to install an ICC profile from a different monitor. Just use one of the ones in the OP. Those will work, and will give you better color accuracy.


----------



## dogroll

Anybody here know if the new CrossOver 290M 21:9 2560x1080 monitor has the same intense backlight bleed problems like the 1440p korean monitors?


----------



## Junior Prestes

Driver Qnix does not work on Windows 7 64bits?


----------



## dpl2007

FOR ANYONE WHO HAS HAD A BUG WERE YOU CAN ONLY SEE THE 60HZ REFRESH:

... might of been to do with reconnecting the monitors or something. But basically I did repair the AMD drivers and I reinstalled / reset the CRU etc. . But none of that appeared to help and everything looked like it was working anyway. Then finally out of desperation I clicked on detect in the 'screen resolution' windows (windows 8.1) and bingo the refresh rates appeared again...!

Just thought I would say in case someone had the same problem...


----------



## autobtsrllout

OK SO with the new Maxwell cards out I have to ask...

If I wanted to do a 3x1 setup of these monitors (as I already own one):

Should I consider getting SLI GTX 980's? OR Waiting for the rumored Q4 GTX 980 ti With ~250-500 more cuda cores (*Rumored)?

I can only fit 2 cards in my system. I have a 1050w PSU so power isn't an issue really. I'm currently running 2 GTX 770's in SLI so I know doing a 3x1 1440p setup with them would be... pushing it to say the least.

Also, what's the verdict with the new QNIX 2710 EVO 2's with the HDMI Port? I remember reading something when researching buying my first monitor (the single DVI-D dual link port model OC-able to 120hz) that having multiple port options could provide screen flicker/image degradation issues? Or something like that at least. That it was better to have the single dedicated port versus having the option of 2 ports. Anyone have info on that?

Thanks guys!!!


----------



## autobtsrllout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> OK SO with the new Maxwell cards out I have to ask...
> 
> If I wanted to do a 3x1 setup of these monitors (as I already own one):
> 
> Should I consider getting SLI GTX 980's? OR Waiting for the rumored Q4 GTX 980 ti With ~250-500 more cuda cores (*Rumored)?
> 
> I can only fit 2 cards in my system. I have a 1050w PSU so power isn't an issue really. I'm currently running 2 GTX 770's in SLI so I know doing a 3x1 1440p setup with them would be... pushing it to say the least.
> 
> Also, what's the verdict with the new QNIX 2710 EVO 2's with the HDMI Port? I remember reading something when researching buying my first monitor (the single DVI-D dual link port model OC-able to 120hz) that having multiple port options could provide screen flicker/image degradation issues? Or something like that at least. That it was better to have the single dedicated port versus having the option of 2 ports. Anyone have info on that?
> 
> Thanks guys!!!


Also, for any of those interested in seeing what the specs of the two side by side are check this link out:

http://gpuboss.com/gpus/GeForce-GTX-980-vs-GIGABYTE-GeForce-GTX-770

I know GPU boss may not be the most ACCURATE of comparisons... but these numbers made me really think about selling my 2 gtx 770's and trying to get 2 980's. The thought of waiting a few more months though for possibly getting another ~1000 cuda cores from 2 SLI'd 980 ti's is the only thing holding me back from pulling the trigger.

That and still having to get my hands on 2 more 1440ps monitors and stand. lol


----------



## blackmagik

Do you guys know this seller? Do you think this is a good choice? I'm buying on eBay USA but sending to Canada.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-Matte-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/271513983209?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f377e98e9

Thanks


----------



## adamCCC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamCCC*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I was hoping someone could give me some advice. Just got my QNIX, no dead pixels etc but the whole screen is sort of flickering with dark patch appearing.
> 
> It looks perfect, then there will be some screen flickering (more like colour changes, not flickering in the normal sense, its almost like the brightness going up and down) which results in a big section at the bottom of the screen in the middle looking like a black shadow. It basically looks like the opposite of regular back light bleed.
> 
> Please tell me there is a way I can fix this!


little bump - is there definitely nothing anyone could suggest to fix this before i send it back? What do people put electrical tape etc around the metal parts for?


----------



## Ovrclck

I'm planning on taking my qnix apart to fix some of the blb. How hard would it be to remove the tempered glass?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamCCC*
> 
> little bump - is there definitely nothing anyone could suggest to fix this before i send it back? What do people put electrical tape etc around the metal parts for?


They do that to relieve some pressure from the inner metal bezel hitting the outer plastic bezel. This is mainly a fix for back light bleed, but in your case it might not do anything. It is also possible that the metal bezel has been pushed in and is causing this (but unlikely).

Is the dark patch visible at all times or only when you have a solid color like in your picture?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I'm planning on taking my qnix apart to fix some of the blb. How hard would it be to remove the tempered glass?


Make sure you remove the bezel with the screen face down on something soft (bed/blankets). The glass is just taped on, so you don't want it coming off and breaking.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Make sure you remove the bezel with the screen face down on something soft (bed/blankets). The glass is just taped on, so you don't want it coming off and breaking.


Oh wow, that's it? I'll post pictures when I'm finished.


----------



## Retchy82

can anyone help me out ive been trying to overclock my QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡjust has dual dvi no other inputs the highest overclock is 75hz no matter what i put in CRU it will only read 75hz tried 96hz tried 110 tried alot of others but just wont show up in advanced settings in display options?

Edit: NVM found the pixel patcher and it worked nicely


----------



## darthdirty

has anyone ever thought about getting a 32 inch to use as their TV??? at $500 on ebay to me its a great buy. My wife wants me to use my 27" as our bedroom TV and i keep telling her no...lol

What does everyone think??


----------



## adamCCC

turned my pc on to this today:

im guessing theres no fix for it


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> has anyone ever thought about getting a 32 inch to use as their TV??? at $500 on ebay to me its a great buy. My wife wants me to use my 27" as our bedroom TV and i keep telling her no...lol
> 
> What does everyone think??


32" is too small for me for the main TV but size is opinion.

The monitor also lacks things normal TVs have too like 3D support, native apps (netflix, hulu, pandora, etc.), TV decoder, antenna/cable hook inputs.

If your only going to only hook a Roku or something up to it then I say go for it, otherwise an actual TV might be better.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> 32" is too small for me for the main TV but size is opinion.
> 
> The monitor also lacks things normal TVs have too like 3D support, native apps (netflix, hulu, pandora, etc.), TV decoder, antenna/cable hook inputs.
> 
> If your only going to only hook a Roku or something up to it then I say go for it, otherwise an actual TV might be better.


I don't need a smart TV or anything it has a HDMI hook up. Also who even uses a cable hook up anymore. The TV would just be for my bedroom don't want/need a big screen in there


----------



## Askepios

Just ordered one of these last week. Got it ridiculously quickly,and it looks amazing, but I'm having a weird issue and wondered if anyone had any idea what might be going on. I've been playing Borderlands 2, and twice now, when I alt+tab out and try to go back, when I try to switch back to it, the screen goes black like normal, but the monitor light just starts blinking red and nothing I do brings it back up. I have to restart the PC. Not sure if it's the monitor or a driver issue of some kind. Any thoughts?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I have mine in my car right now (picked it up off of my parents porch) and will tinker with it tonight.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Who is willing to buy my monitor? i just received it not even a week ago(Tuesday), its the Qnix 2710 SE single input model,barely any BLB but the reason i wanna sell is because it has 2 stuck pixels that are pissing me off.i have OCD with my products and im going insane by it being there. they are not dead pixels. they are STUCK,from my understanding,are removable but knowing my luck,that aint gonna happen! i dont have the money for another but man oh man im tempted to just get another,i dont think i will ever go back to 1080p.

But all seriousness,im WILLING to sell,but i also would like to know if anyone has EVER fixed there stuck pixels or anything simlar.if you read this post,please please please let me know!


----------



## Askepios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Who is willing to buy my monitor? i just received it not even a week ago(Tuesday), its the Qnix 2710 SE single input model,barely any BLB but the reason i wanna sell is because it has 2 stuck pixels that are pissing me off.i have OCD with my products and im going insane by it being there. they are not dead pixels. they are STUCK,from my understanding,are removable but knowing my luck,that aint gonna happen! i dont have the money for another but man oh man im tempted to just get another,i dont think i will ever go back to 1080p.
> 
> But all seriousness,im WILLING to sell,but i also would like to know if anyone has EVER fixed there stuck pixels or anything simlar.if you read this post,please please please let me know!


Just to check, did you order a pixel perfect version? Some of those allow up to three dead pixels, but I saw a few that guarantee zero. I'm not sure if you want to go through the hassle of returning it and replacing, but if you're willing to sell it, then you're probably willing to do that much.

As for trying to repair it, try an app that flashes colors on the screen repeatedly. If they're stuck, that can bring them out of it.


----------



## twizllerson69

I am about to purchase the X-Star Perfect pixel DP2710 LED MULTI HDMI [AH-VA Panel] 2560x1440 27 computer Monitor from dream-seller, but i am wondering how the anti-glare 3H coating on it is? I cannot seem to find an X-Star that is pixel perfect that has a matte finish, so i am wondering if the anti-glare 3H coating on it is the same as the QNIX matte version?

If someone who has this monitor could let me know how the anti-glare coating on it is and if they got any dead pixesl with the perfect pixel from dream-seller, i would really appreciate it.

Thanks!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

It is done.







(Screen on the Left is the Qnix. No dead pixels and ordered through amazon for 350


----------



## dpl2007

Ok guys I think I just found the game to finally show off what this monitor can do I admit my two 290s do slightly struggle at times be it also because of my other system bottle necks not that I have many (check my specs) but at least in the houses and tunels in this games and a bit in the open I can finally see how awesome this monitor can be and the game : The Vanishing of Ethan Carter . Its like skyrim on crack at times exactly how I hope skyrim would be back in the day but only recently got that way. Anyway the game is amazing and quiet probably the best I have ever played go buy it! In fact it like many games but its taken the best and put it together in one thing ok its not mega long but it worth it by a long shot.

illl say it again as post get lost in this thread I know :

The Vanishing of Ethan Carter

I almost forgot there are a few alterations to get it to go past 62 fps but its all out there : http://steamcommunity.com/app/258520/discussions/0/616189106494701813/?l=english#p2 plus change the 62 fps to what ever you like see a later post....


----------



## castlefire

Thanks![/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twizllerson69*
> 
> I am about to purchase the X-Star Perfect pixel DP2710 LED MULTI HDMI [AH-VA Panel] 2560x1440 27 computer Monitor from dream-seller, but i am wondering how the anti-glare 3H coating on it is? I cannot seem to find an X-Star that is pixel perfect that has a matte finish, so i am wondering if the anti-glare 3H coating on it is the same as the QNIX matte version?
> 
> If someone who has this monitor could let me know how the anti-glare coating on it is and if they got any dead pixesl with the perfect pixel from dream-seller, i would really appreciate it.
> 
> Thanks!


just email dream-seller and ask for X-Star matt perfect pixel. i order the wrong one and he just switched it out for the matt perfect pixel version. also this is his facebook account
https://www.facebook.com/dreamsellerkr?fref=hovercard


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> Also who even uses a cable hook up anymore.


Huh? Umm everyone who owns a TV has either satellite or cable. Netflix and youtube etc has not even remotely come close to replacing broadcast TV. So I would say 99 percent of actively used TV's are still serviced by some form of cable.

People like myself are rare I think. I only like Netflix and hulu but I still have to have satellite for live sports, until all of it is streaming that is.

You're statement made no sense.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I havent had cable since I moved out of moms house. I did that when I was 18... I am 26 now.


----------



## jojoenglish85

I love my X-star matte PP, i need 2 more now to keep it all uniform


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I havent had cable since I moved out of moms house. I did that when I was 18... I am 26 now.


So you want me to believe you're TV has been using nothing but wifi for the last 8 years? Or your just streaming using hdmi? I was talking about a physical cable connected to the TV. Not cable TV. That guy claimed no one ever uses a coax cable or hdmi cable etc any more, which suggests he believes we all use built in wifi streaming. I have three hdmi cables going into my TV.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> So you want me to believe you're TV has been using nothing but wifi for the last 8 years? Or your just streaming using hdmi? I was talking about a physical cable connected to the TV. Not cable TV. That guy claimed no one ever uses a coax cable or hdmi cable etc any more, which suggests he believes we all use built in wifi streaming. I have three hdmi cables going into my TV.


Oh I am talking about Cable tv. I hate the thought of paying for that. I have 2 hdmi's going to my 50". One for the ps3 and ps4. I would have to agree that over 90% of people in the US have some kind of hdmi going to a tv.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Oh I am talking about Cable tv. I hate the thought of paying for that. I have 2 hdmi's going to my 50". One for the ps3 and ps4. I would have to agree that over 90% of people in the US have some kind of hdmi going to a tv.


Yeah very few are using strictly the new wifi on these things. Also cable TV still amounts for something like 100 million viewers so its hardly accurate to ask who is still using it. That's like someone who owns a electric car asking who still owns a gasoline car, umm hundreds of millions of people maybe. Lol. There's only been a few million cord cutters since 2012.

I completely went to ota 5 or so years ago and still could not give up on the big screen. So I connected my 55" to the computer lol. Now I live in the country and someone else pays for the satellite service. So I pay for the 4-way Netflix hula and Amazon services.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Huh? Umm everyone who owns a TV has either satellite or cable. Netflix and youtube etc has not even remotely come close to replacing broadcast TV. So I would say 99 percent of actively used TV's are still serviced by some form of cable.
> 
> People like myself are rare I think. I only like Netflix and hulu but I still have to have satellite for live sports, until all of it is streaming that is.
> 
> You're statement made no sense.


my Dish is hooked up using an HDMI cable... i dont use the intena hookup on any of my TVs is all i ment


----------



## kennyparker1337

Weird... I'm getting flashes of static on my monitor every 10 seconds while in 120Hz mode.
It happened right after I opened up a Netflix tab.

edit: This is odd. It happens only after opening of a Netflix tab. I tried several times. Then it went to permanent static. Then I reset the DVI cable on the monitor end and it made it go away.

My pixel clock is 460Hz and I'm using the stock cable.

Fine for entire show. As soon as the next show started... permanent static again.


----------



## Kokin

Finally got another Qnix to replace my broken one! Hoping this one lasts at least a year this time.









If your power brick gets too hot to the touch, I recommend switching it out so you don't experience an early death like my first Qnix.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Finally got another Qnix to replace my broken one! Hoping this one lasts at least a year this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your power brick gets too hot to the touch, I recommend switching it out so you don't experience an early death like my first Qnix.


Really??? Where do you get another Power brick??


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

You get the power bricks from ebay or amazon.

Does anyone know where to get these main board covers with VESA mounting?


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Really??? Where do you get another Power brick??


Club members here have reported that their power bricks were either cool or just warm to the touch, but my brick was always super hot. I could only touch/hold it for a few seconds before it got too hot, so I assume mine was a really crappy quality brick or it was slightly faulty which probably contributed to my Qnix's death (died a day after a power outage and I use a surge protector). It's very similar to picking a good quality PSU for your rig, you don't want unclean/noisy power going into your components.

This is the one that I got and was recommended by others here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110884979882


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Club members here have reported that their power bricks were either cool or just warm to the touch, but my brick was always super hot. I could only touch/hold it for a few seconds before it got too hot, so I assume mine was a really crappy quality brick or it was slightly faulty which probably contributed to my Qnix's death (died a day after a power outage and I use a surge protector). It's very similar to picking a good quality PSU for your rig, you don't want unclean/noisy power going into your components.
> 
> This is the one that I got and was recommended by others here.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110884979882


Bookmarked!! Thank you sir







I am ready to play Middle Earth Shadow Of Morodor tonight on my new Qnix!! So stoked


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Bookmarked!! Thank you sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am ready to play Middle Earth Shadow Of Morodor tonight on my new Qnix!! So stoked


That should be a wonderful experience on the Qnix. Have fun...


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> You get the power bricks from ebay or amazon.
> 
> Does anyone know where to get these main board covers with VESA mounting?


Source


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Source


That just shows how to do the work, which I already know. I just want to buy that square metal piece that holds the PCB, to try avoiding building my own.

I don't have this monitor, so I can't re-use something I don't have. I guess I will build my own if I have to.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> That just shows how to do the work, which I already know. I just want to buy that square metal piece that holds the PCB, to try avoiding building my own.
> 
> I don't have this monitor, so I can't re-use something I don't have. I guess I will build my own if I have to.


Oh okay, I was under the impression you already owned one.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Oh okay, I was under the impression you already owned one.


Nope, I just have the bare naked panel, the electronics etc, and its time I start building my own monitor. If I can find this piece then I can go the easy route, lol. If I can't then I need to start cutting away at something else and build my own mounting method.

Wish I could find one of these monitors smashed to bits on ebay and asking only $5, but even really bad ones are asking a lot for them. Time to break out the dremel I guess...


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Finally got another Qnix to replace my broken one! Hoping this one lasts at least a year this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your power brick gets too hot to the touch, I recommend switching it out so you don't experience an early death like my first Qnix.


Congrats mate - glad you're back up and running.
So question is, are you brave (stupid) enough to swap your PCB's around to confirm this is indeed the faulty part ??? ;-)


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Congrats mate - glad you're back up and running.
> So question is, are you brave *(stupid) enough* to swap your PCB's around to confirm this is indeed the faulty part ??? ;-)


Huh? Are you saying that anyone who decides to swap out their PCB is stupid? Or was that a poor choice of words? Because many people here have replaced their PCB's. lol


----------



## dwaynedibley

Absolutely not!
I'm fact I'm one of those crazy people who have replaced their pcbs, albeit with no result!
You misinterpret my question, now kokin has a working unit I'd be tempted to swap the pcbs around to see if that was the issue with the original. I wouldn't do it though due to the apparently fragile nature of these monitors. This time he has something to lose and could be left with two dead units instead of one.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Absolutely not!
> I'm fact I'm one of those crazy people who have replaced their pcbs, albeit with no result!
> You misinterpret my question, now kokin has a working unit I'd be tempted to swap the pcbs around to see if that was the issue with the original. I wouldn't do it though due to the apparently fragile nature of these monitors. This time he has something to lose and could be left with two dead units instead of one.


Cool, I am also the type to not think twice about replacing the PCB myself, lol. It may be a risk to try and fix it yourself, but if it does not fix it then chances are you now have a good PCb to sell within days or hours here.

Id buy it, and any busted up useless monitor just for the parts.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Congrats mate - glad you're back up and running.
> So question is, are you brave (stupid) enough to swap your PCB's around to confirm this is indeed the faulty part ??? ;-)


I only bought it, I haven't received it yet, but I will probably give it a try. I use a monitor arm for my Qnix, so I'll have to take apart the new Qnix regardless.

At least I get to confirm if the panel is still working properly on the broken Qnix.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Screen on the Left is the Qnix. No dead pixels and ordered through amazon for 350


did you order NON perfect pixel??? because i sure did and got 2 of them suckers but to my understanding,i have STUCK pixels.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> did you order NON perfect pixel??? because i sure did and got 2 of them suckers but to my understanding,i have STUCK pixels.


No I ordered the Perfect pixel off of amazon for 350. And it is perfect my friend!!







Sorry about your dead pixels


----------



## lowskill

Hi. I got my X-Star DP2710 two days ago. Right now I'm trying to overclock it, but I'm not really sure if I have been successful.

First I added a custom resolution with a refresh rate of 96 Hz via the NVIDIA Control Panel. Everything seemed to be okay, so I added another custom resolution. This time with a refresh rate of 120 Hz. Again, everything worked without problems. At that point I got a little suspicious, because I expected to hole overclocking thing to be more complicated. So I did the UFO test and also tried the RefreshRateMultitool. Here are the resulting pictures:





If I interpret these pictures correctly it is actually using the higher refresh rates without frame skipping. Was it really that easy or do I overlook something? I don't know if it is relevant, but I'm using a EVGA GeForce GTX 570 graphics card.

Thanks for your help and for this great and very informative thread.


----------



## elvar

Hello,

I just got my Qnix QX2710 PLS but it is missing one of the rubber feet on the bottom of the stand. Does anyone know where I can buy one? The seller I got it from on Ebay says they can't get them and offered to give me a $20 refund off the the purchased price.

Thanks,


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> I only bought it, I haven't received it yet, but I will probably give it a try. I use a monitor arm for my Qnix, so I'll have to take apart the new Qnix regardless.
> 
> At least I get to confirm if the panel is still working properly on the broken Qnix.


Cool - keep us posted, be very interested how you get on.
Cheers!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowskill*
> 
> Hi. I got my X-Star DP2710 two days ago. Right now I'm trying to overclock it, but I'm not really sure if I have been successful.
> 
> First I added a custom resolution with a refresh rate of 96 Hz via the NVIDIA Control Panel. Everything seemed to be okay, so I added another custom resolution. This time with a refresh rate of 120 Hz. Again, everything worked without problems. At that point I got a little suspicious, because I expected to hole overclocking thing to be more complicated. So I did the UFO test and also tried the RefreshRateMultitool. Here are the resulting pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I interpret these pictures correctly it is actually using the higher refresh rates without frame skipping. Was it really that easy or do I overlook something? I don't know if it is relevant, but I'm using a EVGA GeForce GTX 570 graphics card.
> 
> Thanks for your help and for this great and very informative thread.


Yep, it looks like there is no frame skipping since your boxes are connected. Overclocking these monitors are easy as pie, as long as you follow the provided tutorials. The difficult part is probably fine-tuning to get the best timings for the lowest pixel clock rate possible for 110~120Hz+.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elvar*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I just got my Qnix QX2710 PLS but it is missing one of the rubber feet on the bottom of the stand. Does anyone know where I can buy one? The seller I got it from on Ebay says they can't get them and offered to give me a $20 refund off the the purchased price.
> Thanks,


That's a nice refund value. If you have a local hardware store like Home Depot or Lowe's, it's easy to find a set of rubber feet for a few bucks. Make sure you take measurements or bring one of the feet with you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Cool - keep us posted, be very interested how you get on.
> Cheers!


Definitely will post my results and any pictures. Cheers!


----------



## lowskill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yep, it looks like there is no frame skipping since your boxes are connected. Overclocking these monitors are easy as pie, as long as you follow the provided tutorials. The difficult part is probably fine-tuning to get the best timings for the lowest pixel clock rate possible for 110~120Hz+.


Thanks for the answer. What is the benefit of lowering the pixel clock and what would be a good value for it? Right now I'm using the automatic timing settings.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowskill*
> 
> Thanks for the answer. What is the benefit of lowering the pixel clock and what would be a good value for it? Right now I'm using the automatic timing settings.


The max "stock" clock for the PCB is 450MHz, so you don't want to surpass this as you're going past the limit of the PCB.

Using 120Hz with automatic timings put you at 470~480MHz (or higher?) and with tightened timings would be around 459/460Hz. Many have been using the tightened timings for 1yr+ with no problems, but not all PCBs are of good quality and you may experience decreased stability or even a dead PCB.

If you are using 96Hz, it doesn't matter too much as you are well below the limits of the PCB clock rate.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The max "stock" clock for the PCB is 450MHz, so you don't want to surpass this as you're going past the limit of the PCB.
> 
> Using 120Hz with automatic timings put you at 470~480MHz (or higher?) and with tightened timings would be around 459/460Hz. Many have been using the tightened timings for 1yr+ with no problems, but not all PCBs are of good quality and you may experience decreased stability or even a dead PCB.
> 
> If you are using 96Hz, it doesn't matter too much as you are well below the limits of the PCB clock rate.


This is great to know







I am thinking of running it at 96-100hz 24/7


----------



## adamCCC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elvar*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I just got my Qnix QX2710 PLS but it is missing one of the rubber feet on the bottom of the stand. Does anyone know where I can buy one? The seller I got it from on Ebay says they can't get them and offered to give me a $20 refund off the the purchased price.
> 
> Thanks,


id just use my imagination, stick a piece of anything rubbery u might have lying around the house on it


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Junior Prestes*
> 
> Driver Qnix does not work on Windows 7 64bits?


It does. File is attached.

qnix.zip 0k .zip file


----------



## blackmagik

Hey guys,
Long story short.
My ultimate perfect pixel Qnix has arrived to my friend house at Montreal. He does not have the hardware (video card) to test it, and I wont be picking it up till october 15th.
If he powers up the monitor without attaching any signal cable, will he be able to check at least that the monitor turns on and if so, it there any selftest that he can run?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackmagik*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Long story short.
> My ultimate perfect pixel Qnix has arrived to my friend house at Montreal. He does not have the hardware (video card) to test it, and I wont be picking it up till october 15th.
> If he powers up the monitor without attaching any signal cable, will he be able to check at least that the monitor turns on and if so, it there any selftest that he can run?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I think it might have a test mode when it has no signal. In any case, I can't imagine there being any harm done from not having a cable connected. At least you will know if it turns on.

Why didn't you wait to buy it a 3-5 days before going to visit your friend? lol


----------



## blackmagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I think it might have a test mode when it has no signal. In any case, I can't imagine there being any harm done from not having a cable connected. At least you will know if it turns on.
> 
> Why didn't you wait to buy it a 3-5 days before going to visit your friend? lol


haha good question!
Because I never though that it will arrive in 3 days from corea to canada!!!








Thanks for your tips... I'll try that


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackmagik*
> 
> haha good question!
> Because I never though that it will arrive in 3 days from corea to canada!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your tips... I'll try that


Yeah, that is kinda hard to believe, so I fully understand.


----------



## hutt132

I bought two pixel perfect monitors from Amazon, shipped and sold by ECOMADE ARENA: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAKD6LI

One monitor has a dead pixel and a stuck red pixel. The second monitor has several dead pixels and two clusters of white pixels. Hopefully I can return them and actually receive pixel perfect ones.


----------



## funfordcobra

Mine had what looks like dirt under the film. Maybe its a cluster of stuck grey pixels, but on any account at least they are in the bottom right corner where they are unnoticeable. I have zero backlight bleed and zero ips glow though. Other than the dirt/pixel issue its pretty nice. It's not as vibrant as my LG monitor but it's great for the money.

I'd rather have a few stuck pixels rather than bad bleed issues. I believe I can send it back, but It's too much of a hassle so I'm keeping it. 110hz was the max for mine even with the 24 awg cables.

Ordered from Global. Thinking about adding 2 more. Those ordering perfect pixel editions should have the shipper check for bleed and pixel issues before they send it in an amazon/newegg note.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackmagik*
> 
> haha good question!
> Because I never though that it will arrive in 3 days from corea to canada!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your tips... I'll try that


Yeah, it's amazing how fast the shipping on these monitors are. I paid for mine Tuesday midnight and it's already coming in today.

How does it travel from Korea to Alaska to Los Angeles within 30~40 hours?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

It means they are using a very expensive shipping service, which also means we could probably get these much cheaper if we just asked for normal shipping. Lol


----------



## TheoLas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> It means they are using a very expensive shipping service, which also means we could probably get these much cheaper if we just asked for normal shipping. Lol


I think the shipping is either really slow (2-3+weeks) or very fast, and there is no in-between.


----------



## TheoLas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Mine had what looks like dirt under the film. Maybe its a cluster of stuck grey pixels, but on any account at least they are in the bottom right corner where they are unnoticeable. I have zero backlight bleed and zero ips glow though. Other than the dirt/pixel issue its pretty nice. It's not as vibrant as my LG monitor but it's great for the money.
> 
> I'd rather have a few stuck pixels rather than bad bleed issues. I believe I can send it back, but It's too much of a hassle so I'm keeping it. 110hz was the max for mine even with the 24 awg cables.
> 
> Ordered from Global. Thinking about adding 2 more. Those ordering perfect pixel editions should have the shipper check for bleed and pixel issues before they send it in an amazon/newegg note.


I have a very similar problem. It's not visible when the monitor is off, and unnoticable when the monitor is in use. I can only notice it when the monitor is all dark. Otherwise, my monitor is perfect. It oc's to ~105hz. I have the X-star from Dream-Seller. Edit: They are giving me a $50 partial refund. Or should I return it?


----------



## blackmagik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Yeah, it's amazing how fast the shipping on these monitors are. I paid for mine Tuesday midnight and it's already coming in today.
> 
> How does it travel from Korea to Alaska to Los Angeles within 30~40 hours?


I've noticed that Anchorage is used by UPS alot! My pre ordered iphone 6 did the same stop from china... Those guys at alaska must be on fire (for the first time) lol


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I bought two pixel perfect monitors from Amazon, shipped and sold by ECOMADE ARENA: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAKD6LI
> 
> One monitor has a dead pixel and a stuck red pixel. The second monitor has several dead pixels and two clusters of white pixels. Hopefully I can return them and actually receive pixel perfect ones.


Here is their reply:

_Hello from Ecomade Arena.
Well received your message.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51VXjw1YDEL.jpg
Here is Qnix monitor pixel policy.

With Zero-defect test, perfect pixel monitor mean,
R,G,B dot is zero.
Dark and White dots are up to 3 dot agreed perfect pixel standard.

We test every monitor before shipment. However Defect pixel can be appeared
after using some time.
R,G,B bright dot is only counted as defective pixel
It should be seen in distance of 50cm.

Can you send me the photo of the panel?
I can refund partially the price difference between pixel perfect and normal
monitor.

you photos are necessary._


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> The max "stock" clock for the PCB is 450MHz, so you don't want to surpass this as you're going past the limit of the PCB.
> 
> Using 120Hz with automatic timings put you at 470~480MHz (or higher?) and with tightened timings would be around 459/460Hz. Many have been using the tightened timings for 1yr+ with no problems, but not all PCBs are of good quality and you may experience decreased stability or even a dead PCB.
> 
> If you are using 96Hz, it doesn't matter too much as you are well below the limits of the PCB clock rate.
> 
> 
> 
> This is great to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking of running it at 96-100hz 24/7
Click to expand...

..and I have physical proof for you...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Weird... I'm getting flashes of static on my monitor every 10 seconds while in 120Hz mode.
> It happened right after I opened up a Netflix tab.
> 
> edit: This is odd. It happens only after opening of a Netflix tab. I tried several times. Then it went to permanent static. Then I reset the DVI cable on the monitor end and it made it go away.
> 
> My pixel clock is 460Hz and I'm using the stock cable.
> 
> Fine for entire show. As soon as the next show started... permanent static again.


I'm lucky I didn't kill my PCB. I would no longer endorse using 120Hz.

Not everyone runs into issues but I don't think an extra 24Hz is worth killing a $400 beautiful monitor.

edit: I wonder what's wrong with using these settings?
I lose 3Hz refresh rate and stay under the stock clock if the mentioned 450Hz stock PixClk is true.


----------



## kimjor

So today all of a sudden I got a horizontal line of what looks like dead pixels on my Qnix QX2710, It spans the whole screen.
It exists even when I disconnect the computer and just turns on the power (screen has a *********** on screen for a second)


I have written to the vendor and waiting reply atm.


----------



## Kokin

*For anyone interested in timings and such, please visit lawson67's thread, he is one of the best advice givers for this monitor!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> ..and I have physical proof for you...
> I'm lucky I didn't kill my PCB. I would no longer endorse using 120Hz.
> 
> Not everyone runs into issues but I don't think an extra 24Hz is worth killing a $400 beautiful monitor.
> 
> edit: I wonder what's wrong with using these settings?
> 
> I lose 3Hz and stay under the stock clock if the mentioned 450Hz stock PixClk is true.


I see nothing wrong with 117Hz except it doesn't sync well with videos running at 24 or 30 FPS. 450MHz is the PCB's stock limit, but again there have been people running at the mentioned 460MHz speed for more than a year with no problems.

If it was only Netflix, it's possible that you were running into Hardware Acceleration problems? Many people who use the patcher for their drivers tend to lose Flash video support unless they turn off hardware acceleration via Adoble Flash/browser settings.

Also, not every Qnix is possible to run at 120Hz and it will be clear on whether or not yours is stable at 120Hz. I had no problems running my previous Qnix at 120Hz when I had my 7950, but when I upgraded to my R9 290, it was not stable anymore. Before I sold my 7950, I did test it again and it was stable at 120Hz. Both cards were watercooled and ran both at stock speeds and overclocked speeds (7950 @ 1300/1700 and R9 290 @ 1200/1350). 7950 ran at 120Hz for about 6~7 months, R9 290 ran 110Hz for about 2~3 months before it died.

Even though I have experienced a dead Qnix, I don't think it was the pixel clock rate that attributed to it at all. I do advocate 120Hz, but it's still ultimately up to each individual person to thoroughly test their monitors before deciding on a long-term overclock on delicate quality PCBs.

I do warn people to make sure their power bricks are not running too hot as that was my personal issue and I have a big hunch that was what killed my Qnix. I should be getting my new Qnix tonight and I will test to see if the dead Qnix has a working panel or not.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Yea the only downside is the desync from video content but then I wondered if I would even notice anything from the desync... and came to the conclusion no.

I care way more about what I'm watching than if the frames sync up.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I'm lucky I didn't kill my PCB. I would no longer endorse using 120Hz
> 
> Not everyone runs into issues but I don't think an extra 24Hz is worth killing a $400 beautiful monitor.


I agree completely. For us who can not just buy a monitor over and over again, I think 96hz is going to be my limit. If I want or need a 120hz monitor, I will buy a name brand 120hz monitor. lol

However, with that said I will have a spare DVI Driver board and TCON board at my disposal at all times. Reading through nearly every monitor thread on the planet over the last few weeks has shown me one thing, these absolutely cannot be trusted, even at 60hz, LOL. Another reason I'm rolling my own...

I have had dozens of monitors over the years, and to date only one has ever died on me and that was a $1200 CRT, for which I only had a 15" backup to save me. Never again will I be without a main display.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowskill*
> 
> Hi. I got my X-Star DP2710 two days ago. Right now I'm trying to overclock it, but I'm not really sure if I have been successful.
> 
> First I added a custom resolution with a refresh rate of 96 Hz via the NVIDIA Control Panel. Everything seemed to be okay, so I added another custom resolution. This time with a refresh rate of 120 Hz. Again, everything worked without problems. At that point I got a little suspicious, because I expected to hole overclocking thing to be more complicated. So I did the UFO test and also tried the RefreshRateMultitool. Here are the resulting pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I interpret these pictures correctly it is actually using the higher refresh rates without frame skipping. Was it really that easy or do I overlook something? I don't know if it is relevant, but I'm using a EVGA GeForce GTX 570 graphics card.
> 
> Thanks for your help and for this great and very informative thread.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowskill*
> 
> Thanks for the answer. What is the benefit of lowering the pixel clock and what would be a good value for it? Right now I'm using the automatic timing settings.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> This is great to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking of running it at 96-100hz 24/7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Very Nice! Pictures don't lie








One thing I find puzzling is you didn't need to "patch" your drivers with a 400/500 series GPU (GTX570) according to ToastyX himself ... you can read much more about it in the link Kokin (+R







) provides below or in my sig








NOTE: I would leave well enough alone ... maybe the newer Nvidia drivers have cured the "old" problem Toasty addressed some time ago









Another thing not mentioned so far, is when you use certain custom timings to lower your pixel clock your GPU's Ram will not properly downclock while in a low power state at the desktop







... there is also more info and tips regarding this in the *Lawson Link*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> *For anyone interested in timings and such, please visit lawson67's thread, he is one of the best advice givers for this monitor!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club*
> I see nothing wrong with 117Hz except it doesn't sync well with videos running at 24 or 30 FPS. 450MHz is the PCB's stock limit, but again there have been people running at the mentioned 460MHz speed for more than a year with no problems.
> 
> If it was only Netflix, it's possible that you were running into Hardware Acceleration problems? Many people who use the patcher for their drivers tend to lose Flash video support unless they turn off hardware acceleration via Adoble Flash/browser settings.
> 
> Also, not every Qnix is possible to run at 120Hz and it will be clear on whether or not yours is stable at 120Hz. I had no problems running my previous Qnix at 120Hz when I had my 7950, but when I upgraded to my R9 290, it was not stable anymore. Before I sold my 7950, I did test it again and it was stable at 120Hz. Both cards were watercooled and ran both at stock speeds and overclocked speeds (7950 @ 1300/1700 and R9 290 @ 1200/1350). 7950 ran at 120Hz for about 6~7 months, R9 290 ran 110Hz for about 2~3 months before it died.
> 
> Even though I have experienced a dead Qnix, I don't think it was the pixel clock rate that attributed to it at all. I do advocate 120Hz, but it's still ultimately up to each individual person to thoroughly test their monitors before deciding on a long-term overclock on delicate quality PCBs.
> 
> I do warn people to make sure their power bricks are not running too hot as that was my personal issue and I have a big hunch that was what killed my Qnix. I should be getting my new Qnix tonight and I will test to see if the dead Qnix has a working panel or not.


Great stuff ... well said, glad you threw that link in there ... +R


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimjor*
> 
> So today all of a sudden I got a horizontal line of what looks like dead pixels on my Qnix QX2710, It spans the whole screen.
> It exists even when I disconnect the computer and just turns on the power (screen has a *********** on screen for a second)
> 
> 
> I have written to the vendor and waiting reply atm.


That appears to be a physical connection problem in the panel itself. Maybe pressure in the correct location can alleviate it, but probably only during the application of pressure. Only a panel replacement is going to fix that, I think. Sorry to see that...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

My Ergotron stand - a video of it (finally got my camera back) - enjoy!


----------



## latprod

Hi Guys, I got two WC'ed 780Ti's running Sky's bios, no more overclocking on them, and I read the updated FAQ on the Qnix OC'ing. I wasn't aware that you can do it directly from Nvidia Control Panel, so I tried that last night after a driver update. Results seem to be a little inconsistent. At first 110 hz worked perfectly, validated in UFO frame skip test and games seemed to actually run at 110hz, they really looked a lot smoother. After an hour or so, I started to see some white/greenish lines appear here and there in windows, so I tried to check the timings in the FAQ. Problem is, I have less parameters to adjust than there is in the guide. I can't find "Back Porch" and "Blanking" anywhere.
I tried to make a new one at 96hz, but after that the UFO test went competely haywire and reported refresh rates of anything from 80 to 127 hz and then failed. Seemed as if there was massive frame skipping as well.
I seem to remember things going a little more smoothly using CRU and patched drivers.Does anyone have any ideas how to proceed? Why is using CRU and patches a worse option exactly?
Thanks.


----------



## Ovrclck

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hi Guys, I got two WC'ed 780Ti's running Sky's bios, no more overclocking on them, and I read the updated FAQ on the Qnix OC'ing. I wasn't aware that you can do it directly from Nvidia Control Panel, so I tried that last night after a driver update. Results seem to be a little inconsistent. At first 110 hz worked perfectly, validated in UFO frame skip test and games seemed to actually run at 110hz, they really looked a lot smoother. After an hour or so, I started to see some white/greenish lines appear here and there in windows, so I tried to check the timings in the FAQ. Problem is, I have less parameters to adjust than there is in the guide. I can't find "Back Porch" and "Blanking" anywhere.
> I tried to make a new one at 96hz, but after that the UFO test went competely haywire and reported refresh rates of anything from 80 to 127 hz and then failed. Seemed as if there was massive frame skipping as well.
> I seem to remember things going a little more smoothly using CRU and patched drivers.Does anyone have any ideas how to proceed? Why is using CRU and patches a worse option exactly?
> Thanks.





Did you update your monitor driver to the Qnix inf?
To get sli to work beyond 400Mhz pixel clock with CRU, it would need to be patched.

I'm running sli 780 ti's with ncp , no patches and can clock to 120hz no problem.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Did you update your monitor driver to the Qnix inf?
> To get sli to work beyond 400Mhz pixel clock with CRU, it would need to be patched.
> 
> I'm running sli 780 ti's with ncp , no patches and can clock to 120hz no problem.


Hi and thanks for your reply. the Qnix "inf" ? I downloaded the qnix driver that was linked in lawsons guide, is there a newer/better driver out there?
I also set the refresh rate before installing the driver, does that make a difference?
Also, how do you delete custom refresh rates in NCP and start over?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hi and thanks for your reply. the Qnix "inf" ? I downloaded the qnix driver that was linked in lawsons guide, is there a newer/better driver out there?
> I also set the refresh rate before installing the driver, does that make a difference?
> Also, how do you delete custom refresh rates in NCP and start over?


The qnix is the inf








I would set the refresh after installing the driver.

Did you figure out how to delete a custom refresh rate yet? I'm not at my home pc currently or I would take screen shots for ya.


----------



## ebinlaw

For some reason the frame skip test wont work when i have Chrome on fullscreen. It cant find the right fps and hovers around 48. But when I exit fullscreen chrome it goes to 96 fps.

edit. Same with IE, weird that it does that. Fullscreen on IE gives me frameskipping, but when im not fullscreen it gives me steady 96fps

When I disable all my other displays and go fullscreen it seems to work normally. Weird tho. Could the window be clipping outside my primary monitor?


----------



## Kokin

BIG BIG post, I apologize in advance for people who may not be interested.

So my new Qnix arrived Wednesday night and like my previous Qnix, no dead/stuck pixels and zero/minimal BLB.







I did choose to use the Ebay power brick and while it is warm to the touch, it wasn't unbearably hot like my original power brick. As I mentioned before, I decided to test my old panel with the new PCB and I found some very interesting results.

*New panel with new PCB:*

Limited to 105Hz~108Hz, 110~120Hz will produce green lines and the "purple bar" towards the right side of the monitor.
*ZERO* gamma shift even when overclocking (atypical behavior).
Artifacts mentioned above would start appearing at around 440MHz and higher.
*Old panel with new PCB:*

Will easily overclock to 120Hz with no artifacts (old PCB could not do this with my R9 290).
Heavy gamma shift (very dim) when going past 96Hz (typical behavior).
Can handle 120Hz with downclocking timings (490MHz) without any artifacts.
*
From my testing, it looks like overclocking potential is actually based on the panel itself instead of the PCB.* It's very strange how the new panel cannot handle anything past 440MHz, but the old panel will handle up to 490MHz just fine (both panels are using the same PCB).

*Accessories received, only using the included DL-DVI cable.*


*Top: Ebay power adapter (being used), Left: New Qnix power adapter, Right: Old Qnix power adapter (ran very hot)*


*Left: Old PCB + old panel, Right: New PCB + new panel*

*
Old panel + new PCB: 110Hz downclocking mem timings + 120Hz tightened timings*



*New panel + new PCB: 110Hz tightened timings, 120Hz tightened timings, 120Hz downclocking mem timings*


----------



## TheoLas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> BIG BIG post, I apologize in advance for people who may not be interested.
> 
> So my new Qnix arrived Wednesday night and like my previous Qnix, no dead/stuck pixels and zero/minimal BLB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did choose to use the Ebay power brick and while it is warm to the touch, it wasn't unbearably hot like my original power brick. As I mentioned before, I decided to test my old panel with the new PCB and I found some very interesting results.
> 
> *New panel with new PCB:*
> 
> Limited to 105Hz~108Hz, 110~120Hz will produce green lines and the "purple bar" towards the right side of the monitor.
> *ZERO* gamma shift even when overclocking (atypical behavior).
> Artifacts mentioned above would start appearing at around 440MHz and higher.
> *Old panel with new PCB:*
> 
> Will easily overclock to 120Hz with no artifacts (old PCB could not do this with my R9 290).
> Heavy gamma shift (very dim) when going past 96Hz (typical behavior).
> Can handle 120Hz with downclocking timings (490MHz) without any artifacts.
> *
> From my testing, it looks like overclocking potential is actually based on the panel itself instead of the PCB.* It's very strange how the new panel cannot handle anything past 440MHz, but the old panel will handle up to 490MHz just fine (both panels are using the same PCB).
> 
> *Accessories received, only using the included DL-DVI cable.*
> 
> 
> *Top: Ebay power adapter (being used), Left: New Qnix power adapter, Right: Old Qnix power adapter (ran very hot)*
> 
> 
> *Left: Old PCB + old panel, Right: New PCB + new panel*
> 
> *
> Old panel + new PCB: 110Hz downclocking mem timings + 120Hz tightened timings*
> 
> 
> 
> *New panel + new PCB: 110Hz tightened timings, 120Hz tightened timings, 120Hz downclocking mem timings*


No wonder i cannot get past 105hz.
So, what do we do now? Protest?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> BIG BIG post, I apologize in advance for people who may not be interested.
> 
> So my new Qnix arrived Wednesday night and like my previous Qnix, no dead/stuck pixels and zero/minimal BLB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did choose to use the Ebay power brick and while it is warm to the touch, it wasn't unbearably hot like my original power brick. As I mentioned before, I decided to test my old panel with the new PCB and I found some very interesting results.
> 
> *New panel with new PCB:*
> 
> Limited to 105Hz~108Hz, 110~120Hz will produce green lines and the "purple bar" towards the right side of the monitor.
> *ZERO* gamma shift even when overclocking (atypical behavior).
> Artifacts mentioned above would start appearing at around 440MHz and higher.
> *Old panel with new PCB:*
> 
> Will easily overclock to 120Hz with no artifacts (old PCB could not do this with my R9 290).
> Heavy gamma shift (very dim) when going past 96Hz (typical behavior).
> Can handle 120Hz with downclocking timings (490MHz) without any artifacts.
> *
> From my testing, it looks like overclocking potential is actually based on the panel itself instead of the PCB.* It's very strange how the new panel cannot handle anything past 440MHz, but the old panel will handle up to 490MHz just fine (both panels are using the same PCB).
> ]


What was wrong that you needed a new PCB?


----------



## freezer2k

Got my Qnix a few weeks ago and also can't get past ~105hz....

I can get 110Hz with tightened timings but that seems to be it. Wonder if a different GPU might help here, meaning better quality DVI output signal?


----------



## gobblebox

I had an issue getting past 110hz until I bought this bad boy: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W

Before using this, I had heavy artifacting/green lines/scrambled images

Even though I can hit 120hz, I still only run 96hz daily, occasionally 110hz, because I don't know the long term effects of running at such high frequencies


----------



## bluedevil

Just got mine up to 96Hz today with these timings.


----------



## funfordcobra

I used higher awg dvi cable that is only 3 feet and still get the exact same results. 108 hz. 110 is doable but I get a purple "mist" on the right side of the screen that seems to be overclock limitations.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> BIG BIG post, I apologize in advance for people who may not be interested.
> 
> So my new Qnix arrived Wednesday night and like my previous Qnix, no dead/stuck pixels and zero/minimal BLB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did choose to use the Ebay power brick and while it is warm to the touch, it wasn't unbearably hot like my original power brick. As I mentioned before, I decided to test my old panel with the new PCB and I found some very interesting results.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *New panel with new PCB:*
> 
> Limited to 105Hz~108Hz, 110~120Hz will produce green lines and the "purple bar" towards the right side of the monitor.
> *ZERO* gamma shift even when overclocking (atypical behavior).
> Artifacts mentioned above would start appearing at around 440MHz and higher.
> *Old panel with new PCB:*
> 
> Will easily overclock to 120Hz with no artifacts (old PCB could not do this with my R9 290).
> Heavy gamma shift (very dim) when going past 96Hz (typical behavior).
> Can handle 120Hz with downclocking timings (490MHz) without any artifacts.
> *
> From my testing, it looks like overclocking potential is actually based on the panel itself instead of the PCB.* It's very strange how the new panel cannot handle anything past 440MHz, but the old panel will handle up to 490MHz just fine (both panels are using the same PCB).
> 
> *Accessories received, only using the included DL-DVI cable.*
> 
> 
> *Top: Ebay power adapter (being used), Left: New Qnix power adapter, Right: Old Qnix power adapter (ran very hot)*
> 
> 
> *Left: Old PCB + old panel, Right: New PCB + new panel*
> 
> *
> Old panel + new PCB: 110Hz downclocking mem timings + 120Hz tightened timings*
> 
> 
> 
> *New panel + new PCB: 110Hz tightened timings, 120Hz tightened timings, 120Hz downclocking mem timings*


One of the most interesting posts I've seen since the ol' Lawson days!







+R
I'm rethinking some of my theories on the effects of long term overclocking


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoLas*
> 
> No wonder i cannot get past 105hz.
> So, what do we do now? Protest?


Well it seems like panels made this year don't have gamma shifting when overclocking, but the trade off is a lower over clock. I'm kind of torn between a more color accurate panel vs a stable 120Hz panel, but knowing me I will probably stick with my older panel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> What was wrong that you needed a new PCB?


My original Qnix died, I bought a new one. I tested the original panel with the new PCB just because I was curious if the old panel was still functional and now I found some interesting results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> Got my Qnix a few weeks ago and also can't get past ~105hz....
> 
> I can get 110Hz with tightened timings but that seems to be it. Wonder if a different GPU might help here, meaning better quality DVI output signal?


That might be due to the newer panels not being able to over clock too high. Do you get the purple misty bar and no gamma shift (dimmer) when going past your limits?

Using a 3ft cable is also best since longer distances/cables deteriorate the video signal, but that might not be where your limitation is at.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> I used higher awg dvi cable that is only 3 feet and still get the exact same results. 108 hz. 110 is doable but I get a purple "mist" on the right side of the screen that seems to be overclock limitations.


Looks like you're facing the same limits as many others who bought it recently.


----------



## ebhsimon

I've currently got my Qnix running at 110hz, and have had it for about a year now (I'm on 14.9 CCC), will I be able to keep the overclock in crossfire? I know it's a noobish question, but I don't want to buy another card and then have it not work with the overclock.
In my head, I don't see why it shouldn't work, but have other people confirmed it works?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> My original Qnix died, I bought a new one. I tested the original panel with the new PCB just because I was curious if the old panel was still functional and now I found some interesting results.
> That might be due to the newer panels not being able to over clock too high. Do you get the purple misty bar and no gamma shift (dimmer) when going past your limits?
> .


Guess that means you could get a new PCB and have two. What were the symptoms when it died, I'm wondering if a new PCB is going to fix my problem. (I haven't shipped it yet.)


----------



## Me4502

I got 105Hz with the following timings



http://imgur.com/1Qz7Z9w


I have a GTX 680, and used a patcher to allow higher timings etc.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebhsimon*
> 
> I've currently got my Qnix running at 110hz, and have had it for about a year now (I'm on 14.9 CCC), will I be able to keep the overclock in crossfire? I know it's a noobish question, but I don't want to buy another card and then have it not work with the overclock.
> In my head, I don't see why it shouldn't work, but have other people confirmed it works?


What card are you currently using? Most recent cards (5000 series and up) work in Crossfire, although you do need to use two Crossfire bridges. I think the only situation that doesn't work with the Qnix is when you use a dual-GPU card, but I may be wrong on that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Guess that means you could get a new PCB and have two. What were the symptoms when it died, I'm wondering if a new PCB is going to fix my problem. (I haven't shipped it yet.)


For reference, my old Qnix panel was dated from July 07, 2013 while the new one is dated August 26, 2014. It seems like Qnix has gotten different-spec panels in the last few months as everyone has been experiencing the 105~108Hz limit with the purple misty bar on the right-hand side of the panel.

Outside of your case where you're being offered a replacement PCB, it's actually impossible to find a new PCB elsewhere (I've been trying for 2 months) and you don't want to risk getting it from IPSLEDMonitors due to the "as-in" non-returnable condition. I would take their offer and try it out. The PCB just seems to enable usage of the monitor and the panel is what largely seems to determine the overclock (all assumptions).

The biggest thing to note for my original Qnix was that the power adapter was untouchable after a few seconds. After switching from my 7950 to an R9 290 and using the newly-released CCC 14.4 drivers, the screen occasionally flickered when I had prolonged exposure to white backgrounds (like documents). I didn't think much of it then since the driver incompatibility was causing all sorts of problems with everyone and when a fix for the AMD patcher did surface, the flickering rarely happened. Fast forward 2 months and the flickering was more frequent (again with mostly white backgrounds) but never happened whenever I was playing games or watching videos. Then one day, I had a power outage for about 10 minutes and when power came back into the house, the monitor was flickering like mad and it did not turn on the next day.

My guess is that my power adapter was slowly damaging the power regulation circuit and/or a capacitor/component died when the power outage happened. I do use a surge protector power strip, but it's not a fail-proof device. The red circle indicates the parts I'm talking about:


----------



## ebhsimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> What card are you currently using? Most recent cards (5000 series and up) work in Crossfire, although you do need to use two Crossfire bridges. I think the only situation that doesn't work with the Qnix is when you use a dual-GPU card, but I may be wrong on that.


I've got a R9 290.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> The qnix is the inf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would set the refresh after installing the driver.
> 
> Did you figure out how to delete a custom refresh rate yet? I'm not at my home pc currently or I would take screen shots for ya.


Hey, sorry for late response, been away for a day. Yeah, i figured it out, tried reinstalling driver, removed all the custom resolutions, re-entered lawsons timings and now it seems to be working, no lines at 110 hz, so thats good!


----------



## F1Seb

I purchased my Qnix Evo II a little over a month ago. Last night I had it turn off on my twice. The screen goes black, and the blue LED turns off. I can't seem to turn it back on by again pressing the power button, I have been able to get it working again by restarting my computer, not much of a problem since I have 2 monitors running. Is this a precursor to one of these things going bad?

Ran the Qnix driver, and had it overclocked to 96hz. I decided to turn it back down now to see if this keeps happening.


----------



## Phantatsy

I like how the first page says you cannot overclock the multi-input version, but you can...


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebhsimon*
> 
> I've got a R9 290.


You should be good to go, obviously no bridges needed. The only problem is the cooling of 2 volcanos.









I use watercooling on my R9 290, but it still reaches mid 40s~low 50s both stock and overclocked. My old 7950 rarely surpassed 40C.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F1Seb*
> 
> I purchased my Qnix Evo II a little over a month ago. Last night I had it turn off on my twice. The screen goes black, and the blue LED turns off. I can't seem to turn it back on by again pressing the power button, I have been able to get it working again by restarting my computer, not much of a problem since I have 2 monitors running. Is this a precursor to one of these things going bad?
> 
> Ran the Qnix driver, and had it overclocked to 96hz. I decided to turn it back down now to see if this keeps happening.


Not quite sure since mine never did weird things aside from flickering until the day before it died.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I like how the first page says you cannot overclock the multi-input version, but you can...


It's meant to say that the Multi10 versions will not be a true overclock due to frame skipping. However, the SE versions will do slight overclocks without frame skipping.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> It's meant to say that the Multi10 versions will not be a true overclock due to frame skipping. However, the SE versions will do slight overclocks without frame skipping.


I bought the Multi10 version and I got to 96 before I got artifacts. Didn't notice any frame skipping.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I bought the Multi10 version and I got to 96 before I got artifacts. Didn't notice any frame skipping.


You might not be able to tell with the naked eye. You need to run a frame skip test like mentioned in the OP.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> You might not be able to tell with the naked eye. You need to run a frame skip test like mentioned in the OP.


That sucks, guess I should have checked while it was still running. @[email protected]


----------



## DogEatGod

How likely is it that these panels will last at least a few years if you overclock to 120hz? I'm considering getting one, but I don't know if I should go with this or a 144hz 1080p tn panel for less risk.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogEatGod*
> 
> How likely is it that these panels will last at least a few years if you overclock to 120hz? I'm considering getting one, but I don't know if I should go with this or a 144hz 1080p tn panel for less risk.


This panel, I think, is overall better because of the colors + more work area.


----------



## jameyscott

If you've got the graphics horsepower for it, just get this and overclock it to "hopefully" 110hz. 110 to 120 doesn't make a huge difference and unless you are a competitive gamer, then the fact that this has a slower response time won't matter.

This is coming from a guy who sold his VG248QEs and switched to these beauties.









Although I will eventually get a 1440p 144hz panel when there is some actual competition in that market.


----------



## WallySimmonds

So if I'm wanting to hope on the 'hopeful' 120hz bandwagon I'm better off going for one of these?

I'm currently gaming on a Dell 3011, which has been okay for me, but I'm wanting to try something else out. I also own a Crossover 27Q (one of the early model metal stand ones) and I've been very impressed with the PQ on that, so I'd like to get something similar if possible.

I also like glossy monitors but I've read in these forums that the AG isn't too bad on these?

Appreciate any advice. I game a bit and would be using this for a mixture of movies, games and work. I will likely throw another 290 in my system when the prices drop, so hopefuly that will take care of 120hz okay. The other option I have is just to go for one of the Benq 32"s.


----------



## lasttimei

So i had my monitor for around a year now still working fine.
Now for some reason the brightness is low all of a sudden.
any fix? tried CCC brightness no good.

nvm,
someone was messing with the monitor.
I thought that the monitor only had power on & off, but it also has brightness.


----------



## GoldenboyXD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lasttimei*
> 
> So i had my monitor for around a year now still working fine.
> Now for some reason the brightness is low all of a sudden.
> any fix? tried CCC brightness no good.
> 
> nvm,
> someone was messing with the monitor.
> I thought that the monitor only had power on & off, but it also has brightness.


ROLF. You had this for a year already.


----------



## lasttimei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenboyXD*
> 
> ROLF. You had this for a year already.


yea XD

But never had to change the brightness.
it was always at max.


----------



## Xemos

Got my QNIX QX2710 from UPS today, I looked at a few guides and removed the clear stand by dismantling the bezel etc. My question is about how the panel mounts, from the guides ive seen there are screws to undo and the panels look to be mounted inside some sort of metal case.

As far as i can tell my monitors display is not mounted in any type of case, and does not mount via screws at all. It sits in between 4 brackets, and when put back together the display even seems to move inside the bezel and back a bit if wiggled. Has anyone seen other qnix monitors like this?
(Edited: When i say move its not side to side or up and down movement its actual forward and backward movement of the panel towards the bezel i think.)

Thanks!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xemos*
> 
> Got my QNIX QX2710 from UPS today, I looked at a few guides and removed the clear stand by dismantling the bezel etc. My question is about how the panel mounts, from the guides ive seen there are screws to undo and the panels look to be mounted inside some sort of metal case.
> 
> As far as i can tell my monitors display is not mounted in any type of case, and does not mount via screws at all. It sits in between 4 brackets, and when put back together the display even seems to move inside the bezel and back a bit if wiggled. Has anyone seen other qnix monitors like this?
> (Edited: When i say move its not side to side or up and down movement its actual forward and backward movement of the panel towards the bezel i think.)
> 
> Thanks!


Yours must be lacking the foam squares behind the panel, which is not unheard. You can fix it yourself if you put a little thought into it


----------



## exzacklyright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> My guess is that my power adapter was slowly damaging the power regulation circuit and/or a capacitor/component died when the power outage happened. I do use a surge protector power strip, but it's not a fail-proof device. The red circle indicates the parts I'm talking about:


Probably what happened to me :[ I started seeing sparks when plugging it in lol


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> I bought the Multi10 version and I got to 96 before I got artifacts. Didn't notice any frame skipping.


Actually I've seen the multi-input "True10" get to 120Hz ... BUT IT DOESN'T MATTER ... they ALL frame skip/drop frames and have noticeably more input lag AND a slightly inferior panel (AH-VA vs PLS)! Some True10 versions (HDMI) have been verified to OC to 85Hz without frame dropping, but that's it









Read more details and "proof links" *HERE*

Dang I wish "wntrsnowg" would update the OP with this info!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WallySimmonds*
> 
> So if I'm wanting to hope on the 'hopeful' 120hz bandwagon I'm better off going for one of these?
> 
> I'm currently gaming on a Dell 3011, which has been okay for me, but I'm wanting to try something else out. I also own a Crossover 27Q (one of the early model metal stand ones) and I've been very impressed with the PQ on that, so I'd like to get something similar if possible.
> 
> I also like glossy monitors but I've read in these forums that the AG isn't too bad on these?
> 
> Appreciate any advice. I game a bit and would be using this for a mixture of movies, games and work. I will likely throw another 290 in my system when the prices drop, so hopefuly that will take care of 120hz okay. The other option I have is just to go for one of the Benq 32"s.


If you want the "glossy" version I would seriously consider the Catleap 2B ... they are all on sale again









*THIS ONE* is only $335 ... man I wish I could justify getting another 1440p overclocker .... anyone want a QNIX Matte pixel perfect / slight BLB / 120+Hz rock solid overclocker???


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> BIG BIG post, I apologize in advance for people who may not be interested.
> 
> So my new Qnix arrived Wednesday night and like my previous Qnix, no dead/stuck pixels and zero/minimal BLB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did choose to use the Ebay power brick and while it is warm to the touch, it wasn't unbearably hot like my original power brick. As I mentioned before, I decided to test my old panel with the new PCB and I found some very interesting results.
> 
> *New panel with new PCB:*
> 
> Limited to 105Hz~108Hz, 110~120Hz will produce green lines and the "purple bar" towards the right side of the monitor.
> *ZERO* gamma shift even when overclocking (atypical behavior).
> Artifacts mentioned above would start appearing at around 440MHz and higher.
> *Old panel with new PCB:*
> 
> Will easily overclock to 120Hz with no artifacts (old PCB could not do this with my R9 290).
> Heavy gamma shift (very dim) when going past 96Hz (typical behavior).
> Can handle 120Hz with downclocking timings (490MHz) without any artifacts.
> *
> From my testing, it looks like overclocking potential is actually based on the panel itself instead of the PCB.* It's very strange how the new panel cannot handle anything past 440MHz, but the old panel will handle up to 490MHz just fine (both panels are using the same PCB).
> 
> *Accessories received, only using the included DL-DVI cable.*
> 
> 
> *Top: Ebay power adapter (being used), Left: New Qnix power adapter, Right: Old Qnix power adapter (ran very hot)*
> 
> 
> *Left: Old PCB + old panel, Right: New PCB + new panel*
> 
> *
> Old panel + new PCB: 110Hz downclocking mem timings + 120Hz tightened timings*
> 
> 
> 
> *New panel + new PCB: 110Hz tightened timings, 120Hz tightened timings, 120Hz downclocking mem timings*


Insane findings! +REP

Now I have a few questions that I believe are crucial to ask, concerning the new panel:

Is there zero difference in colors between 60Hz and the max overclock (or any lower overclock for that matter)? Is there no gamma shift at all, or is it just less than the old panel? Is there still image retention? What about uniformity? Is the top right corner darker than the rest of the monitor the higher you go, or is the panel still perfectly uniform?

Do you notice any new side effects whatsoever, such as faint scan lines appearing alternatively on the whole panel? You can simulate this effect on a monitor that does not suffer from this effect by using DeLiner by ToastyX.

Are the colors as saturated on the new panel compared to the old one, particularly reds and greens? I ask this because I suspect there might have been a panel change of sorts, or the new PLS panels rolling off production are able to hit high refresh rates without side effects.

And finally, do you have a good camera such as a DSLR and can take pictures in the same spot, with different refresh rates, of the same image(s) being displayed on the monitor? That would help us greatly. I had a photoshoot of sorts of the Qnix at 60Hz, 96Hz, and 110Hz with and without color profiles and they clearly showed the gamma shift, uniformity issues, and the effects of the profiles applied to those that did not have the monitor in front of them.

Thank you in advance, from all of us!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> If you want the "glossy" version I would seriously consider the Catleap 2B ... they are all on sale again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THIS ONE* is only $335


Catleaps being IPS doesn't have the gamma shift issue right?

My brother is looking at the Overlord's glossy ips. Wondering if this is just as good or better? Plus cheaper!


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Insane findings! +REP
> 
> Now I have a few questions that I believe are crucial to ask, concerning the new panel:
> 
> Is there zero difference in colors between 60Hz and the max overclock (or any lower overclock for that matter)? Is there no gamma shift at all, or is it just less than the old panel? Is there still image retention? What about uniformity? Is the top right corner darker than the rest of the monitor the higher you go, or is the panel still perfectly uniform?
> 
> Do you notice any new side effects whatsoever, such as faint scan lines appearing alternatively on the whole panel? You can simulate this effect on a monitor that does not suffer from this effect by using DeLiner by ToastyX.
> 
> Are the colors as saturated on the new panel compared to the old one, particularly reds and greens? I ask this because I suspect there might have been a panel change of sorts, or the new PLS panels rolling off production are able to hit high refresh rates without side effects.
> 
> And finally, do you have a good camera such as a DSLR and can take pictures in the same spot, with different refresh rates, of the same image(s) being displayed on the monitor? That would help us greatly. I had a photoshoot of sorts of the Qnix at 60Hz, 96Hz, and 110Hz with and without color profiles and they clearly showed the gamma shift, uniformity issues, and the effects of the profiles applied to those that did not have the monitor in front of them.
> 
> Thank you in advance, from all of us!


For the newer panel, I did not notice any gamma shift nor color changes at all between 60Hz~108Hz. I wasn't able to spot any image retention either from the first day of usage before switching to the old panel. As for uniformity, the newer panel is identical in just about all viewing angles, whereas my old panel would get darker in the lower left corner at higher refresh rates but could be due to the gamma shifting.

This makes me believe the newer panel has addressed (at least partially) image retention, uniformity, gamma shifting, and color changes, but sacrifices overclocking ability, hitting a hard limit of 105~110Hz (based on my own panel and recent posts from other members). I also noticed that the portion of the new panel that has the "purple mist bar" has transparency issues where things that should be see-through in games or videos can experience a discoloration (typically purple or red) when overclocking near or past the PCB clock rate of 440MHz.

I didn't take photos for the gamma shifts and uniformity, but it was blatantly obvious with just eyesight alone. I'm not too sure about the saturation due to not enough testing, but I won't have time in the upcoming weeks due to exams for school (5 engineering classes are tying me down right now







).


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Catleaps being IPS doesn't have the gamma shift issue right?
> 
> My brother is looking at the Overlord's glossy ips. Wondering if this is just as good or better? Plus cheaper!


IPS=no gamma shift but worse glow (glossy vs. glossy)

Overlord=Yamakasi with different casing and a better stand. The Yamakasi needs to be taken apart to remove the stand.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> IPS=no gamma shift but worse glow (glossy vs. glossy)
> 
> Overlord=Yamakasi with different casing and a better stand. The Yamakasi needs to be taken apart to remove the stand.


Ahh! Good to know. +Rep


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Catleaps being IPS doesn't have the gamma shift issue right?
> 
> My brother is looking at the Overlord's glossy ips. Wondering if this is just as good or better? Plus cheaper!


Quite right, if there is any it is very slight, but still doesn't mean that colors/vibrance could not be improved upon with a good calibration meter and/or profile. Every monitor has it's subtle differences and more importantly user preferences.
Also make sure you know that a true glossy is what you want, most newer laptops are a good substitute test to check your environmental lighting (reflections) to see if glare will be a problem for your glossy 27".
For glossy enthusiasts an on sale Cat2B is where it's at for price/performance, I believe it is the exact same panel as the Overlord for the glossy version! But I wouldn't rule out Overlord, I hear prices have dropped for the OC model and you certainly can't beat their Customer Service ... need general service or need a new PCB? no problem


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> What card are you currently using? Most recent cards (5000 series and up) work in Crossfire, although you do need to use two Crossfire bridges. I think the only situation that doesn't work with the Qnix is when you use a dual-GPU card, but I may be wrong on that.
> For reference, my old Qnix panel was dated from July 07, 2013 while the new one is dated August 26, 2014. It seems like Qnix has gotten different-spec panels in the last few months as everyone has been experiencing the 105~108Hz limit with the purple misty bar on the right-hand side of the panel.
> 
> Outside of your case where you're being offered a replacement PCB, it's actually impossible to find a new PCB elsewhere (I've been trying for 2 months) and you don't want to risk getting it from IPSLEDMonitors due to the "as-in" non-returnable condition. I would take their offer and try it out. The PCB just seems to enable usage of the monitor and the panel is what largely seems to determine the overclock (all assumptions).
> 
> The biggest thing to note for my original Qnix was that the power adapter was untouchable after a few seconds. After switching from my 7950 to an R9 290 and using the newly-released CCC 14.4 drivers, the screen occasionally flickered when I had prolonged exposure to white backgrounds (like documents). I didn't think much of it then since the driver incompatibility was causing all sorts of problems with everyone and when a fix for the AMD patcher did surface, the flickering rarely happened. Fast forward 2 months and the flickering was more frequent (again with mostly white backgrounds) but never happened whenever I was playing games or watching videos. Then one day, I had a power outage for about 10 minutes and when power came back into the house, the monitor was flickering like mad and it did not turn on the next day.
> 
> My guess is that my power adapter was slowly damaging the power regulation circuit and/or a capacitor/component died when the power outage happened. I do use a surge protector power strip, but it's not a fail-proof device. The red circle indicates the parts I'm talking about:


Hey Kokin - very very interesting and useful as ever.
Probably completely unrelated to the monitors demise and a coincidence, but mine was running off a 7950 when it died as well.
I didn't notice if the my power brick was hot when mine died, but I do wonder if this caused the regulator circuit to blow as you mentioned.
When I got hold of my replacement PCB I used the same power brick (doh in hindsight), so I'm wondering if this blew the second as well. I haven't noticed it get hot when I mess with the monitor now, but that may be because the monitor doesn't display a picture so is drawing a minimal amount of power.
I'm tempted now to replace the cap you circled on one of the boards and get hold of a new power brick. Saying that I may as well replace all the caps while I'm at it.
I'm already using the DL-DVI cable on another (non 1440p) monitor so I'm guessing this is fine and isn't worth replacing?
Could you re-post the link to where you got your new power brick from please mate?

Cheers!


----------



## maaatz

Hello, i have a problem with overclocking my qnix i would need some wise words!
I have patched the drivers and updated monitor driver etc.
Went in to NVC and pressed custom and changed it to 96 hz and it says test successful. do you want to save profile and when i hit yes it dosent save and i cant use that profile. i made an test with 61 hz and that works with no problems. (max 66 hz before this problem occurs)
What to do ?
ive also read somewhere that when you use NVC it only affects windows and not in games. it that true ?
regards

(Using 337.88 driver. on an GTX 480)

EDIT: i tried driver 340.52, same result.

EDIT 2: Some progress, but not even enough. I tried to use CRU insted and used the empty extenssion block just like the guide says. After restart 96 hz appear in NVC and when i use it my screen just become black. After restart it automatically sets back to 60 hz. When i tried my other port on my GPU it works for like 15 seconds. NVC says 96 hz and the online ufo test says 96hz valid. 15 seconds later my bottom part starts to flick between grey/black/white and upper part is just black. After 5 attempts, same result!

I would really appreciate some help

Worked it out!


----------



## bluedevil

Thinking about going to a GTX 970 for a couple of reasons.

1. I can set the Hz in the GeForce drivers.
2. About 100 less watts when full load.
3. Dx12.

One thing though. Don't I have to install the Qnix driver?


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Thinking about going to a GTX 970 for a couple of reasons.
> 
> 1. I can set the Hz in the GeForce drivers.
> 2. About 100 less watts when full load.
> 3. Dx12.
> 
> One thing though. Don't I have to install the Qnix driver?


There are no Qnix drivers, but if you want to overclock, you need to install the patch: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Thinking about going to a GTX 970 for a couple of reasons.
> 
> 1. I can set the Hz in the GeForce drivers.
> 2. About 100 less watts when full load.
> 3. Dx12.
> 
> One thing though. Don't I have to install the Qnix driver?


I didn't have to with my 780Ti, maybe someone with the 970 can give a better answer.

You shouldn't need the patcher Hutt talked about, again, I haven't used it with the 780Ti.


----------



## maaatz

Hello. Is there any reason of why to overclock to 96hz or 120hz. why not 105 or something like that.
My monitor overclocks to 96hz with no problem but on 120hz i get som green stripes flickering.(not alot, verry little. Can you do something about it to get max hz out of monitor. )

I will also report that i could not find any stuck pixels before OC but now i got one red. Is that stuck for ever or how dose this work?

edit: how do this work with dual screens. it seems that i can only use qnix when OC and when the other screen is connected it falls back to 60 and black bars on the sides on the qnix


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I didn't have to with my 780Ti, maybe someone with the 970 can give a better answer.
> 
> You shouldn't need the patcher Hutt talked about, again, I haven't used it with the 780Ti.


Good to know. Still dunno. Gotta think about getting rid of Mantle. Right now in BF4, I can set my Resolution Scaling to 150% of 1440P (4K) and I tend to get about 65-80FPS. Gonna run some benches tonight.


----------



## Raptorr

Hello, I just got a QNIX QX2710, and it worked great for 3 days, then it randomly shut off as I was using it and it will not turn on. When it's trying to turn on, it makes a popping sound, and the green light on the power brick flashes in synch with that popping sound. I've tried another DVI-D cable that I know works, and I've tried on another computer but still nothing. I even tried another 12V power adapter and am getting the same issue. Has anyone run into this?

Apologies if this has come up before, the search tool on this site is not the best.

Thanks


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptorr*
> 
> Hello, I just got a QNIX QX2710, and it worked great for 3 days, then it randomly shut off as I was using it and it will not turn on. When it's trying to turn on, it makes a popping sound, and the green light on the power brick flashes in synch with that popping sound. I've tried another DVI-D cable that I know works, and I've tried on another computer but still nothing. I even tried another 12V power adapter and am getting the same issue. Has anyone run into this?
> 
> Apologies if this has come up before, the search tool on this site is not the best.
> 
> Thanks


Sounds like your PCB is gone.


----------



## Raptorr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Sounds like your PCB is gone.


Forgive my ignorance, but what does that mean?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptorr*
> 
> Forgive my ignorance, but what does that mean?


The circuit board in the back of the monitor.


----------



## Raptorr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> The circuit board in the back of the monitor.


Ah, thank you, well hopefully the seller will refund it, I do have a year warrantee


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Thinking about going to a GTX 970 for a couple of reasons.
> 
> 1. I can set the Hz in the GeForce drivers.
> 2. About 100 less watts when full load.
> 3. Dx12.
> 
> One thing though. Don't I have to install the Qnix driver?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I didn't have to with my 780Ti, maybe someone with the 970 can give a better answer.
> 
> You shouldn't need the patcher Hutt talked about, again, I haven't used it with the 780Ti.
Click to expand...

The QNIX driver isn't necessary, but most of us do it just to rename the generic pnp widows name, and it gives you confirmation Windows is recognizing your QX2710 monitor.

Roland is right, you do not need the patcher for any "single" Nvidia GPU beyond the 400/500 series ...
AND Roland is also right that you do not need any patcher for a 780TI SLI setup ... why is this the one SLI exception? ...
Even ToastyX hasn't answered that one yet









Can't wait for more 9xx Nvidia series feedback and how it works OCing with the QNIX, this new 970 looks like it might rival the reputation of the ol' 7900GTO for the price performance category ... hmmm did I really just say that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> There are no Qnix drivers, but if you want to overclock, you need to install the patch: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


Hmmm no QNIX monitor drivers, check your windows display settings after install?








I think you need to read the link more closely, the "patch" only applies to SLI and single 400/500 Nvidia series GPU's








A fairly new and very informative, easy to understand OC guide for both Nvidia/AMD exists *HERE* ... please check it out, you'll be pleasantly surprised








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maaatz*
> 
> Hello. Is there any reason of why to overclock to 96hz or 120hz. why not 105 or something like that.
> My monitor overclocks to 96hz with no problem but on 120hz i get som green stripes flickering.(not alot, verry little. Can you do something about it to get max hz out of monitor. )
> 
> I will also report that i could not find any stuck pixels before OC but now i got one red. Is that stuck for ever or how dose this work?


Check out the link above (or my sig) for custom tightened timings to help improve your max overclocks etc ... 105Hz is fine ... 96Hz-120Hz just became a habit back in the early days to use multiples of 24fps to sync replay for certain video and movie formats while in an overclocked state ... BUT if you need to use ICC profiles for gamma/color correction from overclocking you will mostly find them for 96Hz or 120Hz, very rarely anything else unless you have your own monitor calibration tools.
Also never heard of OCing being an immediate direct cause of pixel failure but you can give some of the stuck pixel programs and home remedies a try just google "stuck pixel fixes"








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptorr*
> 
> Ah, thank you, well hopefully the seller will refund it, I do have a year warrantee


Is this a trend for the new panels? This just happened to another user a few weeks ago but he was overclocked.
Anyway I hope you have one of the more reputable suppliers that will pay for your return shipping. Please let us know who your dealing with and how easy (or not) the return process goes.


----------



## DogEatGod

I do have the horsepower, so now I just need some luck to get one that overclocks above 96hz. Is it true that the multi-input ones won't overclock? (I saw that on some thread, maybe here, but don't know if it's just a rumor.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogEatGod*
> 
> I do have the horsepower, so now I just need some luck to get one that overclocks above 96hz. Is it true that the multi-input ones won't overclock? (I saw that on some thread, maybe here, but don't know if it's just a rumor.


Multi-input TRUE10 ones will overclock but will skip frames.


----------



## kdbrown5

Hi, I'm trying to join the club and get a qx2710 and I'm narrowing down the sellers/model I want. My goal is going to be to overclock it, so if I understand correctly I want a model without hdmi and dvi-i. I hear that glossy looks better with less glare, so that would be my preference but from most of what I've seen the glossy ones are a few hundred more usually. So I guess I have a few questions..

1. *Is this glossy?*

2. Are all of these the same ? There is a $10-80 price difference *A* *B* *C* and *D*

Thanks for any help or insight!


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdbrown5*
> 
> Hi, I'm trying to join the club and get a qx2710 and I'm narrowing down the sellers/model I want. My goal is going to be to overclock it, so if I understand correctly I want a model without hdmi and dvi-i. I hear that glossy looks better with less glare, so that would be my preference but from most of what I've seen the glossy ones are a few hundred more usually. So I guess I have a few questions..
> 
> 1. *Is this glossy?*
> 
> 2. Are all of these the same ? There is a $10-80 price difference *A* *B* *C* and *D*
> 
> Thanks for any help or insight!


#1: Nope, it's a matte screen.


----------



## kdbrown5

ok thanks, i ended up ordering http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Glossy-/330932579690?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e6d6a


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdbrown5*
> 
> Hi, I'm trying to join the club and get a qx2710 and I'm narrowing down the sellers/model I want. My goal is going to be to overclock it, so if I understand correctly I want a model without hdmi and dvi-i. I hear that glossy looks better with less glare, so that would be my preference but from most of what I've seen the glossy ones are a few hundred more usually. So I guess I have a few questions..
> 
> 1. *Is this glossy?*
> 
> 2. Are all of these the same ? There is a $10-80 price difference *A* *B* *C* and *D*
> 
> Thanks for any help or insight!


Don't worry and stress and fret about glossy vs matte, I used to own a glossy, which i loved, now I own a matte, which i love







These are great screens regardless and the matte coating is not aggressive, and doesn't take away anything away from my gaming/general experience of the screen. And yeah, get a DVI only from a reputable seller. A, B ,C and D are the same monitor.


----------



## latprod

btw, does anyone know if u can use a hdmi - dual layer DVI adapter to run your ps4 on the qnix? probably a no go...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> btw, does anyone know if u can use a hdmi - dual layer DVI adapter to run your ps4 on the qnix? probably a no go...


You're right, it's a no-go.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwaynedibley*
> 
> Could you re-post the link to where you got your new power brick from please mate?
> 
> Cheers!


http://www.ebay.com/itm/110884979882

Here you go. It was actually after switching to my R9 290 did I experience any weird issues with my old Qnix, but it was mostly due to the early 14.4 driver incompatibility.

I have very basic knowledge of PCB components, but aside from a few school projects, I don't have the technical know-how to diagnose where/what is the problem and tracing circuits is a pain in the butt for me.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdbrown5*
> 
> Hi, I'm trying to join the club and get a qx2710 and I'm narrowing down the sellers/model I want. My goal is going to be to overclock it, so if I understand correctly I want a model without hdmi and dvi-i. *I hear that glossy looks better with less glare,* so that would be my preference but from most of what I've seen the glossy ones are a few hundred more usually. So I guess I have a few questions..
> 
> 1. *Is this glossy?*
> 
> 2. Are all of these the same ? There is a $10-80 price difference *A* *B* *C* and *D*
> 
> Thanks for any help or insight!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kdbrown5*
> 
> ok thanks, i ended up ordering http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Glossy-/330932579690?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e6d6a
Click to expand...

For me there is a significant difference between Matte and "true" Glossy (not tempered glass) screens ... your statement above (bold) is half right. While a glossy panel is sharper/brighter (no AG coating) you can have significant problems with glare/reflections if you can't control your rooms lighting environment. For a quick and easy test to mimic a 27" glossy screen, use a newer laptop, you'll see what kind of reflections you can expect with a true glossy or even a tempered glass screen.

Now for the bad news, you'll have to trust me on this one but I've done the research. Dream-Seller was/is? notorious for selling Tempered Glass models as a true Glossy screen. They have even replied in email questions that they are the same! You probably have ordered a Tempered Glass model as QNIX true glossy panels haven't been available since they 1st came out for less than $600-$700+








Tempered Glass models will fool the untrained eye as they have the same "glare/reflection" characteristics as a Glossy, BUT they usually are no more than a piece of glass layered on top of a Matte screen.







Once the panel is in hand it is easy to determine if you have Tempered Glass with a simple disassembly but is almost impossible to tell the difference with just a picture(photo) and no disassembly.

Now for the good news!







If you are absolutely sure a Glossy panel is what you want? ... Occasionally the Catleap 2B overclock, a true LG S-IPS Glossy panel (same as the Overlord) that normally costs $700-$800 is currently on sale ... best price right now is $335 from Bigclothcraft (fairly reputable) and thelovelypeople , not sure about them but I like their stated service and return policies ... I think it's early enough to cancel your order if you want to change your mind ...









Yamakasi Catleap 2B Overclock $335 ... *HERE
*

Good luck, hope that has been helpful and not a buyers remorse post ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogEatGod*
> 
> I do have the horsepower, so now I just need some luck to get one that overclocks above 96hz. Is it true that the multi-input ones won't overclock? (I saw that on some thread, maybe here, but don't know if it's just a rumor.


More info and Proof links on the disadvantages of the QNIX multi-input True10 models *HERE* ...
I may also have to put this link in my sig


----------



## funfordcobra

What do you guys use to clean your screens. No matter what product I use I always get smudges and streaks. I'm using a monitor cleaner from Fry's and different types of micro fiber towels.


----------



## hutt132

This is an update to my two non-pixel perfect monitors I ordered from Amazon from the seller ECOMADE ARENA who advertised them as pixel perfect: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAKD6LI/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1

*First Monitor (Two clusters of stuck pixels)*
http://puu.sh/c3eyl/438e92c0ac.JPG
http://puu.sh/c3eBo/6d16c19d2a.JPG
http://puu.sh/c3eC6/32c34442cb.JPG

*Second Monitor (Stuck red pixel)*
http://puu.sh/c3eE6/5a3a523a6b.JPG

*Here is the seller's reply:*
_I checked out your photos carefully.
As I see it, countable defective pixel is only Stuck_Red_Pixel_3.JPG photos.
When we test the monitor, we only count bright dot pixels.

Group_defective_Pixels_Left_of_Cursor_2.JPG kind of pixel is not counted as defective pixel
Defective pixel should be bright as your cursor bright.
As your point of view, it could be regarded as defective pixels, but actually it is not defect pixels according to Qnix pixel policy.

You have one red hot pixel in monitor.
Actually it can not be reason of return in this case.
Basically, we refund the price difference between pixel perfect and defect pixel agreed monitor.
The price is $20.00 each.
I think you have one pixel in one monitor.
so how about my suggestion, $30.00 courtesy partial refund and close this case.
With my sales experience, this is the best and easy solution in this case.
Let me update your opinion._

The seller should at least let me return the stuck red pixel monitor for a replacement because it goes against their "guarantee" pixel perfect policy. Thus if the product does not meet the description on the page because it is defective, it should be replaced. As for the second monitor, two clusters of stuck pixels is defective, but the seller says it is not defective because they are not that bright...

I do not recommend buying monitors from ECOMADE ARENA as they do not sell the product as advertised and do not back up their policy.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptorr*
> 
> Hello, I just got a QNIX QX2710, and it worked great for 3 days, then it randomly shut off as I was using it and it will not turn on. When it's trying to turn on, it makes a popping sound, and the green light on the power brick flashes in synch with that popping sound. I've tried another DVI-D cable that I know works, and I've tried on another computer but still nothing. I even tried another 12V power adapter and am getting the same issue. Has anyone run into this?
> 
> Apologies if this has come up before, the search tool on this site is not the best.
> 
> Thanks


Get in contact with your seller straight away. They should at the very least offer to cover return shipping as death after 3 days should count as a DOA IMHO.
Or you could push for a replacement PCB to fit yourself if you're up for that. This seems to massively depend on the seller though.
Honestly, don't do what I did and give the seller too much time (unless you've bought off some of the more reputable seller mentioned lots on here). If you don't reach an amicable solution quickly open a dispute to make sure you don't miss the money back deadline.
Remember, push hard and don't give in


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/110884979882
> 
> Here you go. It was actually after switching to my R9 290 did I experience any weird issues with my old Qnix, but it was mostly due to the early 14.4 driver incompatibility.
> 
> I have very basic knowledge of PCB components, but aside from a few school projects, I don't have the technical know-how to diagnose where/what is the problem and tracing circuits is a pain in the butt for me.


Cheers! I'll get round to sorting mine one day. I still don't get why the replacement PCB didn't fix my problems.
Just hope my power brick didn't fry both boards, although I would have thought the cap on the power regulator circuit would have blown before the brick could have done any damage?

Anyway, I'll replace the caps eventually and cross my fingers.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/110884979882
> 
> Here you go. It was actually after switching to my R9 290 did I experience any weird issues with my old Qnix, but it was mostly due to the early 14.4 driver incompatibility.
> 
> I have very basic knowledge of PCB components, but aside from a few school projects, I don't have the technical know-how to diagnose where/what is the problem and tracing circuits is a pain in the butt for me.


Looking at UK sellers, this looks like the same spec - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CWT-CAD060121-PAA060F-12V-5A-60W-Adapter-For-TVs-/280700417891?pt=UK_Computing_LaptopAccessories_PowerSupplies&hash=item415b0c7763
One day I'll stop spending money on this bloody monitor...


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> What do you guys use to clean your screens. No matter what product I use I always get smudges and streaks. I'm using a monitor cleaner from Fry's and different types of micro fiber towels.


Microfiber cloth. Lightly damped with water.


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> This is an update to my two non-pixel perfect monitors I ordered from Amazon from the seller ECOMADE ARENA who advertised them as pixel perfect: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAKD6LI/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
> 
> *First Monitor (Two clusters of stuck pixels)*
> http://puu.sh/c3eyl/438e92c0ac.JPG
> http://puu.sh/c3eBo/6d16c19d2a.JPG
> http://puu.sh/c3eC6/32c34442cb.JPG
> 
> *Second Monitor (Stuck red pixel)*
> http://puu.sh/c3eE6/5a3a523a6b.JPG
> 
> *Here is the seller's reply:*
> _I checked out your photos carefully.
> As I see it, countable defective pixel is only Stuck_Red_Pixel_3.JPG photos.
> When we test the monitor, we only count bright dot pixels.
> 
> Group_defective_Pixels_Left_of_Cursor_2.JPG kind of pixel is not counted as defective pixel
> Defective pixel should be bright as your cursor bright.
> As your point of view, it could be regarded as defective pixels, but actually it is not defect pixels according to Qnix pixel policy.
> 
> You have one red hot pixel in monitor.
> Actually it can not be reason of return in this case.
> Basically, we refund the price difference between pixel perfect and defect pixel agreed monitor.
> The price is $20.00 each.
> I think you have one pixel in one monitor.
> so how about my suggestion, $30.00 courtesy partial refund and close this case.
> With my sales experience, this is the best and easy solution in this case.
> Let me update your opinion._
> 
> The seller should at least let me return the stuck red pixel monitor for a replacement because it goes against their "guarantee" pixel perfect policy. Thus if the product does not meet the description on the page because it is defective, it should be replaced. As for the second monitor, two clusters of stuck pixels is defective, but the seller says it is not defective because they are not that bright...
> 
> I do not recommend buying monitors from ECOMADE ARENA as they do not sell the product as advertised and do not back up their policy.


I replied to the seller saying I would like to return the stuck red pixel monitor and have all shipping paid for and this is their reply:
_Currently, Qnix pixel perfect monitor is out of stock due to panel supply issue.

Glossy panel monitor only left. ( your purchased model is matte panel)

I think I offered reasonable suggestion.

In your side, return and replacement is very easy.

One monitor both shipping cost is USD $120.00

replacement is not possible, if you want to return one monitor, return and refund is only possible.

Then you have to buy new monitor again.

Please consider my offer again carefully._


----------



## Ovrclck

Hence why pixel perfect is a scam.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## Captaincaveman

I have 3 27" connected.
2 of them using DVI, the third using monoprice active adapter (dvi to mini dp) and then a mini dp to dp adapter (r9 290 doesn't have mini dp).
Can't get the third one to work properly:


----------



## jameyscott

Some active dp adapters don't support the pixel clock needed for this 1440p.







I believe that is your issue can you link the adapter?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Now for the good news!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are absolutely sure a Glossy panel is what you want? ... Occasionally the Catleap 2B overclock, a true LG S-IPS Glossy panel (same as the Overlord) that normally costs $700-$800 is currently on sale ... best price right now is $335 from Bigclothcraft (fairly reputable) and thelovelypeople , not sure about them but I like their stated service and return policies ... I think it's early enough to cancel your order if you want to change your mind ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yamakasi Catleap 2B Overclock $335 ... *HERE
> *


Hmmm What exactly is the difference between a qnix and a catleap in terms of panel/image quality and purpose? Is this more a graphic designers type screen, or is it suitable for gaming in the same way as the qnix? I just disregarded the catleaps completely because of the price, but now I see a lot of them priced similarly as the qnix


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Some active dp adapters don't support the pixel clock needed for this 1440p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that is your issue can you link the adapter?


adapter


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> adapter


Well, it supports it. You are using a dual link DVI cable like the one provided, correct? If you are, then you might need to return that adapter.


----------



## spiderxjz82

2 more on their way to me for triple surround setup.

Also, I did not need any form of patch for SLI Titan setup...


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Well, it supports it. You are using a dual link DVI cable like the one provided, correct? If you are, then you might need to return that adapter.


I'm also using a DP to mini DP adapter. Could that be the faulty one?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Well, it supports it. You are using a dual link DVI cable like the one provided, correct? If you are, then you might need to return that adapter.


Unfortunately these monitors are picky when it comes to DP to DVI adaptors. for example:
This accell model works: http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1412763583&sr=8-5&keywords=dp+to+dvi+3d+powered
and this one doesn't: http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412763959&sr=8-1&keywords=Accell+UltraAV+B087B-002B

The 2B model that doesn't work looks to have the same spec's as the one you bought. The one that works has a higher bandwidth, and higher clock spec. then the one that doesn't.

Note: I actually have both of the ones I linked, I bought the second one first, and when it didn't work, got the first one, which did (and does) work.


----------



## Xemos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> For me there is a significant difference between Matte and "true" Glossy (not tempered glass) screens ... your statement above (bold) is half right. While a glossy panel is sharper/brighter (no AG coating) you can have significant problems with glare/reflections if you can't control your rooms lighting environment. For a quick and easy test to mimic a 27" glossy screen, use a newer laptop, you'll see what kind of reflections you can expect with a true glossy or even a tempered glass screen.
> 
> Now for the bad news, you'll have to trust me on this one but I've done the research. Dream-Seller was/is? notorious for selling Tempered Glass models as a true Glossy screen. They have even replied in email questions that they are the same! You probably have ordered a Tempered Glass model as QNIX true glossy panels haven't been available since they 1st came out for less than $600-$700+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tempered Glass models will fool the untrained eye as they have the same "glare/reflection" characteristics as a Glossy, BUT they usually are no more than a piece of glass layered on top of a Matte screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the panel is in hand it is easy to determine if you have Tempered Glass with a simple disassembly but is almost impossible to tell the difference with just a picture(photo) and no disassembly.
> 
> Now for the good news!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are absolutely sure a Glossy panel is what you want? ... Occasionally the Catleap 2B overclock, a true LG S-IPS Glossy panel (same as the Overlord) that normally costs $700-$800 is currently on sale ... best price right now is $335 from Bigclothcraft (fairly reputable) and thelovelypeople , not sure about them but I like their stated service and return policies ... I think it's early enough to cancel your order if you want to change your mind ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yamakasi Catleap 2B Overclock $335 ... *HERE
> *
> 
> Good luck, hope that has been helpful and not a buyers remorse post ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More info and Proof links on the disadvantages of the QNIX multi-input True10 models *HERE* ...
> I may also have to put this link in my sig


So I was reading along on this mega post, after receiving my qnix qx2710 getting the amd patching done, oc'ing it to 96hz and using the color sustainer with a custom profile I noticed something.... I ordered a MATTE screen and my display is glossy... Then I read this post about the tempered glass, I tried searching the forums some and came up with nothing. How can I tell if its a glossy display or a tempered glass layed over a matte screen? Also should I contact the seller about possibly getting some money refunded for not getting what I ordered? ( The listing clearly says MATTE at the begging of the title of the ebay post).
Thanks!


----------



## Berserknitro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xemos*
> 
> So I was reading along on this mega post, after receiving my qnix qx2710 getting the amd patching done, oc'ing it to 96hz and using the color sustainer with a custom profile I noticed something.... I ordered a MATTE screen and my display is glossy... Then I read this post about the tempered glass, I tried searching the forums some and came up with nothing. How can I tell if its a glossy display or a tempered glass layed over a matte screen? Also should I contact the seller about possibly getting some money refunded for not getting what I ordered? ( The listing clearly says MATTE at the begging of the title of the ebay post).
> Thanks!


I believe you have to take monitor apart to see if its a glossy panel or temper one..I had the same problem with my monitor being glossy and wanted matte..They (ebay seller) gave me a discount on price..They said that all there monitors that just came in where all glossy..Not taking chance sending it back...I am just going to suck it up..And control the lighting in my room..


----------



## MenacingTuba

Left glass vs. matte (semi-gossy)

glass vs. glossy

glass vs glossy


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hmmm What exactly is the difference between a qnix and a catleap in terms of panel/image quality and purpose? Is this more a graphic designers type screen, or is it suitable for gaming in the same way as the qnix? I just disregarded the catleaps completely because of the price, but now I see a lot of them priced similarly as the qnix


The Catleap 2B started this whole IPS / 1440p / refresh rate overclock craze over 2.5yrs ago. It is an S-IPS panel made by LG. It was discovered by gamers, and is quite suitable for gaming. Overlord Computers developed their version of this monitor from the Cat2B, and they certainly cater to gamers! Many QNIX owners that switched to a Catleap or vice-versa, have said the Catleap is slightly superior in clarity/color vibrance to the QNIX PLS, Samsungs version of an IPS panel. I believe this is mostly due to the majority of Catleap panels being glossy, and the majority of QNIX's are Matte. Put a true glossy QNIX up against a Catleap and I bet there would be almost no difference in PQ when calibrated properly. Note no one has said either has an advantage in response times, or in either monitors ability to overclock! Also the Catleap has no Gamma shift when overclocked, BUT many units developed an obnoxious coil whine when overclocked. Many have also commented that the Cat2B has a slightly better build quality and this is evident even in the pictures of the case and stand. QNIX ($280-$320) became popular when the cost of the 2B skyrocketed ($600-$800) ... also a surprising, to me anyway, amount of people actually prefer the Matte (QNIX) because of glare/reflection problems with the glossy panels. It really comes down to personal preference, but for me if the QNIX and Cat2B are similarly priced ... it's a no-brainer to go for the Catleap 2B









You can read more about the Cat2B *HERE* ... though you'll have to sift through many posts regarding the non-overclock (60Hz) Yamakasi Catleaps. I guess like the True10 some of those will OC into the 7xHz range.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 more on their way to me for triple surround setup.
> 
> 
> Also, I did not need any form of patch for SLI Titan setup...


This is good to know, but not surprising given the similarity of the Titan and 780Ti ... +R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xemos*
> 
> So I was reading along on this mega post, after receiving my qnix qx2710 getting the amd patching done, oc'ing it to 96hz and using the color sustainer with a custom profile I noticed something.... I ordered a MATTE screen and my display is glossy... Then I read this post about the tempered glass, I tried searching the forums some and came up with nothing. How can I tell if its a glossy display or a tempered glass layed over a matte screen? Also should I contact the seller about possibly getting some money refunded for not getting what I ordered? ( The listing clearly says MATTE at the begging of the title of the ebay post).
> Thanks!


Besides the absolute proof of disassembly, some guys can tell the difference between a glossy and tempered glass by touch/feel. Tempered Glass is rigid and extremely hard to scratch. A glossy panel has some "give/reaction" to it when pressed on and the screen can be scratched/damaged when not handled/cleaned properly.

Unfortunately I didn't save all my links regarding Tempered Glass vs Glossy when I did all my research way back when, but most of the info came from this thread and referred links .... *HERE* is a start with LunaP, around Xmas 2013 there was a lot of chatter how suppliers were pawning off Tempered Glass models as Glossy ... pay close attention to LunaP / Spartan F8 / and of course MenacingTuba. I see he posted his pictures which is one of my favorites! Those are really great pictures showing how tempered glass be it layered over matte or glossy, diffuses the light and really puts a grey hue over the blacks compared to glossy, to the trained eye!
As far as removing the Tempered Glass just follow the linked disassembly guide in the OP (removing the bezel part), if it is Tempered Glass (I suspect it is) it will be attached with double sided tape and is not to hard to remove if you choose to do so?

Edit: I'm running out of time, but when I get the chance I'll find the direct post where the tempered glass is removed and there is a photo log of how his monitor looks before and after!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

After looking at all the images over the past month or so, I am certain Matte is the better one for me. I rarely ever have my room dark and I do not want to start now. I'm bummed out that my screen is matte but has tempered glass over it. Especially when the glass bezel on mine is too damn beautiful to not use, lol...

Anyone have any tips on limiting the reflections without turning off lights? Dark clothing, no lamps behind you etc? I can substitute a white t-shirt for a black one easily enough.

What the heck were these engineers thinking when they put a nice plasma disposition matte coating on the screen and then covered it with a glossy glass? LOL


----------



## MenacingTuba

Put a lamp with a 1500 lumen Daylight/6500k CFL (Philips) light behind the monitor. LED lights are expensive and are not bright enough to be used for bias lighting.


----------



## Ovrclck

I remember @LunaP has some issues removing the matte coating on one of his monitors..

If it's not too hard, that's something I wouldn't mind trying.


----------



## Ovrclck

Here's a side by side comparison of the matte film removed. Good stuff!

Comparison

Some have confirmed that after removing the tempered glass, matte film was not present
Here


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Put a lamp with a 1500 lumen Daylight/6500k CFL (Philips) light behind the monitor. LED lights are expensive and are not bright enough to be used for bias lighting.


LOL Very funny, but no... The monitor hole in my desk is completely enclosed and very close to the same size as the screen, so all that will do is build up heat and look bizarre.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Well, all three are up and running in surround now at 96Hz, will post some pics when I can!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Well, all three are up and running in surround now at 96Hz, will post some pics when I can!


Congratulations on your surround monitor setup.


----------



## Dry Bonez

ive had one heck of a ride with these qnix monitors that im about to go "berserker barrage" lol..anyway,ill explain everything later on today but i come home from work and my monitor is waiting for me which was scheduled for friday,so i was happy,got it up and running,no pixel issues but i do have serious BLB issues,any noob friendly guide for the fix? aaaaaaand now for the one that i doubt is unfixable, so im messing with the monitor and now noticed my brightness buttons dont work at all,i cant go up or down. what can i do??? or what should i do?


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Congratulations on your surround monitor setup.


I only got a single dead pixel on one of the monitors, at least that's all I've found so far...


----------



## Berserknitro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> ive had one heck of a ride with these qnix monitors that im about to go "berserker barrage" lol..anyway,ill explain everything later on today but i come home from work and my monitor is waiting for me which was scheduled for friday,so i was happy,got it up and running,no pixel issues but i do have serious BLB issues,any noob friendly guide for the fix? aaaaaaand now for the one that i doubt is unfixable, so im messing with the monitor and now noticed my brightness buttons dont work at all,i cant go up or down. what can i do??? or what should i do?


Try pressing and holding the button down for awhile..My X star is laggy with brightness..That work for me..And just do not hold them for a second hold it down for awhile..


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Here's a side by side comparison of the matte film removed. Good stuff!
> 
> Comparison
> 
> Some have confirmed that after removing the tempered glass, matte film was not present
> Here


Removing the matte film is a death sentence for matte coated monitors. The polarizer / panel will eventually get damaged / stained / scratched.

Indeed, LunaP had his polarizer damaged (it shifted over time). He was *kidding* about returning it to the seller, too. Funny.

Want glossy, buy glossy.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Removing the matte film is a death sentence for matte coated monitors. The polarizer / panel will eventually get damaged / stained / scratched.
> 
> Indeed, LunaP had his polarizer damaged (it shifted over time). He was *kidding* about returning it to the seller, too. Funny.
> 
> Want glossy, buy glossy.


I do remember that lol

Do you think it's possible that some early monitors that came as tempered had no matte underneath? I have to take apart my monitor to remove the glass soon just have been lazy about it.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I do remember that lol
> 
> Do you think it's possible that some early monitors that came as tempered had no matte underneath? I have to take apart my monitor to remove the glass soon just have been lazy about it.


Quite right, but only on the earlier models (appx 1.5yrs ago?), more than one user/purchaser that removed their tempered glass discovered they in fact had a glossy screen underneath, w/pics for proof









Can't find the links right now, but tomorrow I'll dig into it again, and this time make a folder or thumbnail it


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Quite right, but only on the earlier models (appx 1.5yrs ago?), more than one user/purchaser that removed their tempered glass discovered they in fact had a glossy screen underneath, w/pics for proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't find the links right now, but tomorrow I'll dig into it again, and this time make a folder or thumbnail it


Like this one?

Mine was purchased around that time as well. ..hmmm


----------



## saruin

I was interested in this monitor (or perhaps a Catleap) and came across this video here:






There's a comment posted that mentions that for $25-$30 you can have a monitor tested before shipping, yet I don't see that mentioned in the ebay listings for that particular seller (and for other reputable ones). Anyone care to comment on this? A 90/10 gamble seems too much of risk!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> I was interested in this monitor (or perhaps a Catleap) and came across this video here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a comment posted that mentions that for $25-$30 you can have a monitor tested before shipping, yet I don't see that mentioned in the ebay listings for that particular seller (and for other reputable ones). Anyone care to comment on this? A 90/10 gamble seems too much of risk!


Maybe they used to charge for testing them? I think now you can simply ask them to test it before shipping and maybe they will. I seem to recall reading something like that at ebay but forgot which seller it was.

Anyway, what does it hurt to ask them?


----------



## Pleiades

Anyone suddenly finding their DirectX 3D games not working? Used to be fine @ 120hz but now only OpenGL & 2d games seem to work, DirectX 3D ones crash after a few moments. Funnily enough Google Earth still works for me in D3D mode...

I'm at a loss. Most modern titles are of course D3D only. I'd hate to go back to 60hz unless I really had to









Anything been introduced in latest AMD drivers that could have broken stuff (ie CRU)?

Sorry I'm not very technically literate about these things...


----------



## Imitationcrabme

So I gambled and lost. The new improved multi version is the same old laggy garbage as before. I purchased a "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE 27" 2560x1440 QHD DVI HDMI Monitor", and the input lag is pretty terrible. Even just basic tasks in windows are laggy. So now it goes to the HTPC, as it annoying as a windows screen, and unusable for any kind of gaming.

It's a shame, because this screen is beautiful in every other way. Not a single damaged pixel, no obvious backlight bleed, and the light matte coating is just enough to defeat glare without being grainy. Games looked absolutely great, but just too laggy to be playable.

So business as usual, do not purchase any multi-input models for any reason. I only took the risk because I need an HTPC screen, and wanted HDMI input for intel integrated graphics. Was hoping i would get lucky and this would work for my gaming PC as well, but no...


----------



## Dry Bonez

So i was on the OP of this thread and i noticed something interesting that caught my attention and want everyones opinion/facts.....i was extremely interested in the color calibration section,seems official to me. so my question is,is it necessary to follow that? does it make a big immpact on visual quality? the visualization is already gorgeous,so will this make it even more eye popping gorgeous? please reply,i am truly fascinated by this. the only thing i didnt like was there were no pics included.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imitationcrabme*
> 
> So I gambled and lost. The new improved multi version is the same old laggy garbage as before.


The Multi TFT Central reviewed had a typical delay vs. the other multi-input 1440p monitors which is quite slight. Which GPU are you using? Can you test for LED PWM Dimming with this test (read the instructions)?


----------



## Xemos

Picked up a 10ft DVI-D cable a few days ago off amazon, got it in today (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ3WI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
.. yeah hook it up screen looks terrible and really bad green hue. I'm assuming this cable cant handle 1440p like its supposed to or possibly just a defective cable?

Apparently i didnt read the reviews well enough, read a few 3 stars saying that it didnt handle OC'ing well on xstar or qnix monitors. Will return and try again, any suggestions on amazon available cables that are proven?
Thanks!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xemos*
> 
> Picked up a 10ft DVI-D cable a few days ago off amazon, got it in today (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ3WI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
> .. yeah hook it up screen looks terrible and really bad green hue. I'm assuming this cable cant handle 1440p like its supposed to or possibly just a defective cable?
> 
> Apparently i didnt read the reviews well enough, read a few 3 stars saying that it didnt handle OC'ing well on xstar or qnix monitors. Will return and try again, any suggestions on amazon available cables that are proven?
> Thanks!


Hmm, that sucks, lol that is the cable I had chosen to get here in the next few days myself, except the 6ft version.

Check to make sure all the pins look to be intact and fully seated. If so, try it again. If it still does not work after removing/refitting call amazon and tell them it is not working and maybe they will replace it.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You can read more about the Cat2B *HERE* ... though you'll have to sift through many posts regarding the non-overclock (60Hz) Yamakasi Catleaps. I guess like the True10 some of those will OC into the 7xHz range.


Hmm all the listings on e-bay says Yamakasi Catleap. They also have ""2B OverClock" 120HZ 2560x1440 S-IPS" in the title.
So you are saying that this is all bull, that they are basically like the tru10's in that respect?
If that's the case I'm sticking with my Qnix. It's matte, but i had no choice since my old glossy screen cracked after a minor minor accident.
Gonna read the post you linked now. Thanks so much for your detailed reply


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pleiades*
> 
> Anyone suddenly finding their DirectX 3D games not working? Used to be fine @ 120hz but now only OpenGL & 2d games seem to work, DirectX 3D ones crash after a few moments. Funnily enough Google Earth still works for me in D3D mode...
> 
> I'm at a loss. Most modern titles are of course D3D only. I'd hate to go back to 60hz unless I really had to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anything been introduced in latest AMD drivers that could have broken stuff (ie CRU)?
> 
> Sorry I'm not very technically literate about these things...


If you updated drivers you have to repatch. Hopefully just redoing the process from scratch will sort it. I have a strange situation were I usually have to click identify in the screen resolution window to get my custom resolutions back each time i startup. Hopefully you don't have this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xemos*
> 
> Picked up a 10ft DVI-D cable a few days ago off amazon, got it in today (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ3WI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
> .. yeah hook it up screen looks terrible and really bad green hue. I'm assuming this cable cant handle 1440p like its supposed to or possibly just a defective cable?
> 
> Apparently i didnt read the reviews well enough, read a few 3 stars saying that it didnt handle OC'ing well on xstar or qnix monitors. Will return and try again, any suggestions on amazon available cables that are proven?
> Thanks!


Yer some people say long cables are not so great for ocing Awg 24 are supposed to be good from mono price but I didn't get any improvement over my boxed cable with one 5 ft it was I think. But that cable dis look like it should do it.


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imitationcrabme*
> 
> So I gambled and lost. The new improved multi version is the same old laggy garbage as before.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Multi TFT Central reviewed had a typical delay vs. the other multi-input 1440p monitors which is quite slight. Which GPU are you using? Can you test for LED PWM Dimming with this test (read the instructions)?


As above, I have seen a single multi input and the lag was not bad at all. I could not tell the difference between that and my single input model.

Also here's a pic of the setup now, all running 96Hz


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xemos*
> 
> Picked up a 10ft DVI-D cable a few days ago off amazon, got it in today (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ3WI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
> .. yeah hook it up screen looks terrible and really bad green hue. I'm assuming this cable cant handle 1440p like its supposed to or possibly just a defective cable?
> 
> Apparently i didnt read the reviews well enough, read a few 3 stars saying that it didnt handle OC'ing well on xstar or qnix monitors. Will return and try again, any suggestions on amazon available cables that are proven?
> Thanks!


I have the 2 meter version of this one: http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-26911-DVI-D-Digital/dp/B0000X0VCY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412849589&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=C2G+6.5+ft.+DVI-D+M%2FM+Dual+Link+Digital+Video+Cable+Model+26911 and it works fine.

Edit: Looking at some of the reviews, the cable I linked has had issues too. You may have gotten a bad one, and a replacement may work fine. I bought mine at Newegg, not Amazon, but that shouldn't matter.


----------



## Adam182

Got a phonecall from UK customs today, I have to pay £164 in Import duty and tax in order to recieve my 2 x Xstar monitors!!! i knew i would take a hit but £164 jesus I wasnt expecting that much! that makes each monitor just short of £300 each! i have a feeling i could have bought them from a supplier in the UK for less - Adam


----------



## Xemos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xemos*
> 
> Picked up a 10ft DVI-D cable a few days ago off amazon, got it in today (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ3WI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
> .. yeah hook it up screen looks terrible and really bad green hue. I'm assuming this cable cant handle 1440p like its supposed to or possibly just a defective cable?
> 
> Apparently i didnt read the reviews well enough, read a few 3 stars saying that it didnt handle OC'ing well on xstar or qnix monitors. Will return and try again, any suggestions on amazon available cables that are proven?
> Thanks!


Just moved my pc and dual monitor desk mount around to make the dvi cable that came with the qnix qx2710 work. I was just worried about it being short and putting stress on the monitors dvi port. I raised my computer 8 inches off the floor and it helped alot. Probably going to get a refund for the amazon cable.


----------



## Ovrclck

I'm using that exact cable and can hit 120Hz no problem.

Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Got a phonecall from UK customs today, I have to pay £164 in Import duty and tax in order to recieve my 2 x Xstar monitors!!! i knew i would take a hit but £164 jesus I wasnt expecting that much! that makes each monitor just short of £300 each! i have a feeling i could have bought them from a supplier in the UK for less - Adam


Which courier? UPS charged me £61 for two Qnix's.


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> Which courier? UPS charged me £61 for two Qnix's.


Fedex! i feel so violated right now - Adam


----------



## MuteMode

Does anyone know if this monitor the same as the multi-input TRUE 10 version?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Super-QHD-Multi-Matte-27-inch-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-LED-Monitor-/121399470429?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c43f8e95d

In the description, accessorieswhole states that it can be overclocked with no frame skipping but I'm skeptical considering all I've read here. I'll be using for both my PS4 and as a third QNIX hooked up to a GTX 970 so while overclocking isn't necessary (for this PS4) it would be nice to have when I switch inputs to my PC.

* Edit * Oh well, I see now that most of the True 10 listings from accessorieswhole also have the clause about them overclocking with no frame skipping but we all know this isn't true.


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

I just ordered this one myself. Same accessorieswhole seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362611435?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imitationcrabme*
> 
> So I gambled and lost. The new improved multi version is the same old laggy garbage as before. I purchased a "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE 27" 2560x1440 QHD DVI HDMI Monitor", and the input lag is pretty terrible. Even just basic tasks in windows are laggy. So now it goes to the HTPC, as it annoying as a windows screen, and unusable for any kind of gaming.
> 
> It's a shame, because this screen is beautiful in every other way. Not a single damaged pixel, no obvious backlight bleed, and the light matte coating is just enough to defeat glare without being grainy. Games looked absolutely great, but just too laggy to be playable.
> 
> So business as usual, do not purchase any multi-input models for any reason. I only took the risk because I need an HTPC screen, and wanted HDMI input for intel integrated graphics. Was hoping i would get lucky and this would work for my gaming PC as well, but no...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MuteMode*
> 
> Does anyone know if this monitor the same as the multi-input TRUE 10 version?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Super-QHD-Multi-Matte-27-inch-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-LED-Monitor-/121399470429?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c43f8e95d
> 
> In the description, accessorieswhole states that it can be overclocked with no frame skipping but I'm skeptical considering all I've read here. I'll be using for both my PS4 and as a third QNIX hooked up to a GTX 970 so while overclocking isn't necessary (for this PS4) it would be nice to have when I switch inputs to my PC.
> 
> * Edit * Oh well, I see now that most of the True 10 listings from accessorieswhole also have the clause about them overclocking with no frame skipping but we all know this isn't true.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SkitzoPhr3nia*
> 
> I just ordered this one myself. Same accessorieswhole seller.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362611435?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Well this is not surprising ... some of the multi-input (True10) HDMI models have been verified to overclock to 85Hz without dropping frames ... But that is RARE ... AND that is as high as they "might" go ... plus input lag etc etc ...
accessorieswhole isn't being completely truthful ... Please read my post *HERE* ... .









Still working on getting this updated info/links into the OP ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Multi TFT Central reviewed had a typical delay vs. the other multi-input 1440p monitors which is quite slight. *Which GPU are you using? Can you test for LED PWM Dimming* with this test (read the instructions)?


I am also very interested in the PWM dimming results MTuba asked for as I think this is a possible problem with this AH-VA panel and may have to be added to the negatives of the True10? I may be mistaken, but when I read that review I thought it showed the True10 to be one of the lower rated in response times @ 6.3/13.2/22.6 ... see graph below ...

NOTE: For those that don't keep current on all this stuff ... Don't get excited and think the QNIX QX2710 model in the graph is the "Single-Input" PLS model that will OC without frame dropping, and has noticeably less input lag ...
*IT ISN'T! ... it's the True10* ... this is one of my biggest gripes with this review as TFT should have distinguished it more prominently ... Really not their fault, it's QNIX's fault for these deceptive NAMING CONVENTION'S!










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> So i was on the OP of this thread and i noticed something interesting that caught my attention and want everyones opinion/facts.....i was extremely interested in the color calibration section,seems official to me. so my question is,is it necessary to follow that? does it make a big immpact on visual quality? the visualization is already gorgeous,so will this make it even more eye popping gorgeous? please reply,i am truly fascinated by this. the only thing i didnt like was there were no pics included.


Every monitor is different and when you throw in personal preferences of what looks best to that person, you may or may not improve upon your present color with a custom ICC profile. QNIX's have an above average reputation for fairly accurate colors out of the box, but you could try a few custom profiles and see what looks best for you. Or even better use a color calibration tool yourself. Also note why most of us use custom ICC profiles is the QNIX is notorious for gamma shift (darkening of the screen) @96Hz and above. The higher your OC, the more pronounced the gamma shift









Many of us now prefer "Color Sustainer" by Yasamoka, it has some extra useful features and you'll get help from Yaz himself who wrote the program ...
see the OP









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hmm all the listings on e-bay says Yamakasi Catleap. They also have ""2B OverClock" 120HZ 2560x1440 S-IPS" in the title.
> So you are saying that this is all bull, that they are basically like the tru10's in that respect?
> If that's the case I'm sticking with my Qnix. It's matte, but i had no choice since my *old glossy screen cracked* after a minor minor accident.
> Gonna read the post you linked now. Thanks so much for your detailed reply


Sorry that was confusing ... If you want a true glossy and want reliable overclocking like the single-input PLS QNIX then the [YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 *"2B OverClock"* 120HZ 2560x1440 S-IPS Monitor] is the one you want ... like *HERE* ... it will OC without dropping frames, unlike the True10 or other variants of the Catleap Q270 that are not the "2B overclock" model








Also if your glossy screen "cracked?" ... I suspect it was a "Tempered Glass" model layered over a matte or possibly a true glossy screen (earlier models) ... disassemble it and see if you can remove the broken (cracked) tempered glass, you may find a perfectly serviceable matte screen underneath, or if your lucky a true glossy ...








see BGKris link below ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Like this one?
> 
> Mine was purchased around that time as well. ..hmmm


Yep ... that's an excellent example +R ... it will be interesting to see what yours is underneath the tempered glass


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yep ... that's an excellent example ... will be interesting to see what yours is underneath the tempered glass


I'll take it apart this Saturday. Now to find a decent stand .


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Still working on getting this updated info/links into the OP ...


I was thinking maybe you should do a "QNIX / X-Star Monitor Club Continued". Just send a message to the admins and see if they will support you in doing so. Then they can close this thread and have a link on the last post forwarding to your new thread. You obviously enjoy keeping everyone updated on the facts, and you have no problem typing out large posts, lol. You could update your own OP without needing to bother someone else to do so. In fact, it is globally customary to close threads when they get to several thousand pages, and continue them on in a new thread. So long you keep links to the original OP and in the new OP, and in your signature.

That is if you're even interested in something like that. LOL, I hate threads that get this big.


----------



## yasamoka

Thank goodness for TomcatV around here. I agree with the suggestion above.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Thank goodness for TomcatV around here. I agree with the suggestion above.


*says the guy who DEVELOPED a program for no other reason than to benefit other people









seriously, you (yasamoka), Tomcat, Toasty, MenacingTuba, wntrsnowg, and others whom i forgot their names are really unsung heroes around here. without you guys the Qnix/X-Star community wouldn't have grown to this level. THANK YOU !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking maybe you should do a "QNIX / X-Star Monitor Club Continued". Just send a message to the admins and see if they will support you in doing so. Then they can close this thread and have a link on the last post forwarding to your new thread. You obviously enjoy keeping everyone updated on the facts, and you have no problem typing out large posts, lol. You could update your own OP without needing to bother someone else to do so. In fact, it is globally customary to close threads when they get to several thousand pages, and continue them on in a new thread. So long you keep links to the original OP and in the new OP, and in your signature.
> 
> That is if you're even interested in something like that. LOL, I hate threads that get this big.


I also agree with you. If I'm not mistaken can't the OP be transferred to another user? That maybe be easier than to start a whole new thread.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> *says the guy who DEVELOPED a program for no other reason than to benefit other people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seriously, you (yasamoka), Tomcat, Toasty, MenacingTuba, wntrsnowg, and others whom i forgot their names are really unsung heroes around here. without you guys the Qnix/X-Star community wouldn't have grown to this level. THANK YOU !
> I also agree with you. If I'm not mistaken can't the OP be transferred to another user? That maybe be easier than to start a whole new thread.


I doubt it, but I have been out of the forum admin thing since 2011, so not sure what admin features/tools these forum websites have these days. I just think someone who actually has these devices, and is actually here constantly advising should control the OP's, or have their own continuation of them. You can find many forums which do the same thing. Here at Overclock.net I have not seen many threads get this large but once they do it becomes much harder to search within it since result numbers will also be many and daunting, especially for people who hate to read through hours of search results.

Anyway it was just a suggestion and only someone who is active, plans to stay active and has time should consider it, especially someone who seems genuinely interested in the topic. None of this means the Admins will be OK with it though, or Tomcat for that matter, lol. This thread has over 2100 pages and 21,000 posts, that is just insane to not step in and continue it in another thread...

A new thread called *"[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Continued Part 2"* or something along those lines, by a different individual just seems like a good idea to me


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote the first post, edit the information and change the Thread Title To : The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club: [Read 1st Post]. Don't Need [Official], need to encourage people to read the first post to prevent people from asking the same questions 10 billion times. Inlcude something like this

*What is the difference between the Super, Multi and Evolution Monitors*?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



The Multi and Super can barely overclock, have a frame of input lag and the Multi TFT Central Reviewed (Source, Scroll down) used LED PWM Dimming or Flickers (Read about the side effects), even though these monitors are advertised as being Flicker Free


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> *says the guy who DEVELOPED a program for no other reason than to benefit other people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seriously, you (yasamoka), Tomcat, Toasty, MenacingTuba, wntrsnowg, and others whom i forgot their names are really unsung heroes around here. without you guys the Qnix/X-Star community wouldn't have grown to this level. THANK YOU !
> I also agree with you. If I'm not mistaken can't the OP be transferred to another user? That maybe be easier than to start a whole new thread.


Haha thanks, that means a lot to me to find my work appreciated. Surely it must mean a lot to the others mentioned as well as they have contributed enormously too.

To be honest with you, it first started out of frustration







Being a multi-monitor user, color profiles would get reset upon launching some games (I clearly remember BF3 being a culprit at this). Using a color profile enforcer such as CPKeeper, which was a good first stab at the problem, I would be able to preserve the color profile at least when using a single monitor; however, CPK would only detect displays upon launch and assign numbers to them, and would not detect displays as they got connected and disconnected while it was running, meaning that if you were to start with 2 monitors upon CPK launch and disabled one or flipped them around, the color profiles would flip around as well or the wrong color profile might be applied to the monitor still enabled. If you were to start with one monitor, then enable / connect another, CPK would not detect the newly enabled display and the color profile would not be set for that monitor. I also had to switch profiles whenever I switched refresh rates after I got the Qnix. If I were to disconnect the second monitor and plug in a TV, I would have to change the profile as well. Sometimes, CPK wouldn't even load its own settings and load the last profile I had set before a restart, for example.

Now you could see why I have included all those features in Color Sustainer


----------



## inchy97

Say I just purchased a QNIX 2710 and I have installed the patcher files, monitor drivers, and updated gtx 970 drivers.

But when i have my refresh rate set to 110, the frame skipping reports only half of the FPS



http://imgur.com/UkEF4


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Quote the first post, edit the information and change the Thread Title To : The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club: [Read 1st Post]. Don't Need [Official], need to encourage people to read the first post to prevent people from asking the same questions 10 billion times. Inlcude something like this
> 
> *What is the difference between the Super, Multi and Evolution Monitors*?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The Multi and Super can barely overclock, have a frame of input lag and the Multi TFT Central Reviewed (Source, Scroll down) used LED PWM Dimming or Flickers (Read about the side effects), even though these monitors are advertised as being Flicker Free


Absolutely, what you said, lol...









Yeah that is my point entirely with the idea, you can take what we learned from this thread and improve it ten fold within a new thread, simply by immediately and clearly answering all the most common questions right away...

The OP also mentions something about being a Club, however club members are not listed, and not to mention that there are simply way too many people owning this brand now, so I think the removal of the word Club is in order, and replace it with the word INFO.

"The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor INFO Thread - [Read 1st Post]" Just a suggestion, because this is clearly NOT a club in any way, shape or form. It is a information thread as far as I can see.


----------



## Ovrclck

^^ all of this.

Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


----------



## gobblebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Hmm, that sucks, lol that is the cable I had chosen to get here in the next few days myself, except the 6ft version.
> 
> Check to make sure all the pins look to be intact and fully seated. If so, try it again. If it still does not work after removing/refitting call amazon and tell them it is not working and maybe they will replace it.


I literally went through 4 so-called "dual link" dvi cables on Amazon that were actually MUCH worse than the original cable that came with the monitor (Apparently there are a lot of fraudulent DL-DVIs on Amazon)... then I FINALLY found *this one*
and was able to hit 120hz easily w/o any artifacting

If you choose a different cable, just remember: The shorter, the better, as well as a lower gauge.

[EDIT] Haha, I just realized it is the same cable... this was the 5th cable that I bought, and the only one that I was able to get a clean 120hz with... 6ft


----------



## Imitationcrabme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Multi TFT Central reviewed had a typical delay vs. the other multi-input 1440p monitors which is quite slight. Which GPU are you using? Can you test for LED PWM Dimming with this test (read the instructions)?


I couldn't see any difference on that test, but I believe the frame skipping test captures it perfectly. Shimian single input on the left, Qnix multi (DVI and HDMI) on the right. This is on a GTX 970 344.16 drivers, but the lag is exactly the same on my HTPC.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inchy97*
> 
> Say I just purchased a QNIX 2710 and I have installed the patcher files, monitor drivers, and updated gtx 970 drivers.
> 
> But when i have my refresh rate set to 110, the frame skipping reports only half of the FPS
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/UkEF4


You don't need the patcher with newer Nvidia cards.

Just install the monitor driver, and then create a new refresh rate in Nvidia Control Panel.

Don't run the frame skipping test full-screen. Make your window smaller.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gobblebox*
> 
> I literally went through 4 so-called "dual link" dvi cables on Amazon that were actually MUCH worse than the original cable that came with the monitor (Apparently there are a lot of fraudulent DL-DVIs on Amazon)... then I FINALLY found *this one*
> and was able to hit 120hz easily w/o any artifacting
> 
> If you choose a different cable, just remember: The shorter, the better, as well as a lower gauge.
> 
> [EDIT] Haha, I just realized it is the same cable... this was the 5th cable that I bought, and the only one that I was able to get a clean 120hz with... 6ft


Yeah, I chose that cable because it had reviews that stated it worked great with the Korean 1440p monitors, one guy said he tried three cables before he found one that worked. I don't think every monitor and every cable is created equal. Some monitors will work with any DL cable provided, and others will be picky and need only the very best cable you can find.

I wish I had the pin removal tool for DVI pins and a source for the DVI connectors, because I would kill my 16ft DL-DVI cable I have and turn it into a 6ft instead. Granted its a old 2006 cable, but the AWG is much larger than what they are using now and I have no need for a 16ft cable. But I failed to find the needed parts to try and modify it myself. Probably cost more just for the tools, than simply buying a new cable. lol


----------



## inchy97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> You don't need the patcher with newer Nvidia cards.
> 
> Just install the monitor driver, and then create a new refresh rate in Nvidia Control Panel.
> 
> Don't run the frame skipping test full-screen. Make your window smaller.


I dont run the skipping test full screen that was just a screen cap, even when i make it a smaller window it still says 50 fps when nvidia says 96 hz


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, I really need your help. I had my qnix running at 110 hz and it verified in the UFO frame skip test. Now nothing works, for no reason I can understand. I haven't installed or done anything, but whatever I do, it's at 60hz. I can even see lag when i type this up (SLI 780Ti's btw). I tried deleting all my custom profiles and reentering them, with lawsons timings, but NOTHING sticks. I'm at 60 hz no matter what I do. What is going on here? Do i need to do a driver reinstall? I uninstalled geforce experience... I just don't get it, seriously need some help here cuz the difference between 60 and 110-120 is massive


----------



## semajha

Any new ICC profiles that improve whites and make it less eye fatiguing?

Forgot to mention that I'm using the year old model if that makes any difference.


----------



## Roland2

I am also running SLI'd 780Ti's, but don't have this issue. I would try re-installing the drivers using the custom setting so you can do a clean install.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I am also running SLI'd 780Ti's, but don't have this issue. I would try re-installing the drivers using the custom setting so you can do a clean install.


tried it, didn't work. Do you need to uninstall geforce experience? I'm trying patching and CRU again now just to see if it works


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> tried it, didn't work. Do you need to uninstall geforce experience? I'm trying patching and CRU again now just to see if it works


You might want to boot into safe mode, and uninstall the drivers that way. I have had issues with the custom install before.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> You might want to boot into safe mode, and uninstall the drivers that way. I have had issues with the custom install before.


Hmm okay, I can try that. The weird thing is, I tried CRU and a 120 hz profile... Booted into windows with green scan lines and everything, so it looked 100% as if it was running on 120 hz...except UFO frame skip test said it was 60. ***... I can try safe mode and all that and see if it helps.
Another clue, if you can call it that, is that after I alter the resolutions...and after a restart, the qnix driver will have a Yellow ! next to it in the device manager.... weird?


----------



## JMattes

Looking to join the club and buy a Qnix 2710..

Was hoping someone could point me into a good/safe dealer for the US.. I think I would like to try to get one of the perfect pixel models as I think I would be disappointed spending that kinda money on a monitor and have a few dead pixels.. with my luck they would be dead center..

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Looking to join the club and buy a Qnix 2710..
> 
> Was hoping someone could point me into a good/safe dealer for the US.. I think I would like to try to get one of the perfect pixel models as I think I would be disappointed spending that kinda money on a monitor and have a few dead pixels.. with my luck they would be dead center..
> 
> Any help is appreciated!


Use Amazon if you're worried about it and buy a Ultimate Perfect Pixel. Those are guaranteed no RGB or dead pixels and Amazons rules for sellers are very strict, so if a seller wants to keep their account valid they must keep you, the customer happy, within reason.


----------



## JMattes

Thanks for the advise.. I was thinking they are a safe bet..

what is the difference between these two listings?

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00CI3EQA2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963550&sr=8-3&keywords=qnix+qx2710

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963650&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix+qx2710

Other than $10?

This may sound stupid, but I do not know much about these things other than this is the best of both worlds if I am looking for 1440p and a bit more hz as they can OC.. but these are what everyone's getting when they talk about the QNIX monitors right?

Last thing I want is to buy the wrong one haha..

So $360 ish is the going rate for perfect pixels right? from a safe vendor I would guess.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I'll take it apart this Saturday. Now to find a decent stand .


Very good, had to R you for that link, thanks ... Just an unconfirmed insider tip, but QNIX is supposed to come out with an "A" panel (not A-) in true glossy overclocker (special order of A panels), when? ... not sure ... This would be great as "technically" the PLS is slightly superior to IPS ... Guess they're feeling the heat from the recent Cat2B pricing 









As far as stands, the old standby (pun) is the Monoprice HERE
 ... Lawson has one, he likes it, he also said there would be no problem cutting back the feet 33%-50% if you found them to obtrusive, I also think he said it will work in Portrait if you lift the monitor slightly to set it.

THIS is probably the most popular one, looks nice!, but I don't think it will work in Portrait









HERE is another one that looks decent but I can't comment on ... ooops it has since disappeared with no relist








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I was thinking maybe you should do a "QNIX / X-Star Monitor Club Continued". Just send a message to the admins and see if they will support you in doing so. Then they can close this thread and have a link on the last post forwarding to your new thread. You obviously enjoy keeping everyone updated on the facts, and you have no problem typing out large posts, lol. You could update your own OP without needing to bother someone else to do so. In fact, it is globally customary to close threads when they get to several thousand pages, and continue them on in a new thread. So long you keep links to the original OP and in the new OP, and in your signature.
> 
> That is if you're even interested in something like that. LOL, I hate threads that get this big.


Well thanks for the props








And props to all the guys mentioned and others not mentioned (Spartan F8 / Lawson etc) ... reason I hang around threads like this is because of the original enjoyment it brought me, and wanting to share (for me anyway) one of the most significant upgrades in my computing experience! Easy top 3 in the last 5 years along with cheap unlocked multipliers and SSD's ... AND PLS [email protected], easily TOP of the list for a gaming experience!








Your suggestion was the idea behind Lawsons overclocking thread ... we wanted more of a place for QX/DP2710 owners/overclockers to share problems/observations and new idea's ... and have this thread as a place more for general info and a place for potential buyers to educate themselves BUT alas were're both to busy to fully commit w/high standards.

Additionally "wntrsnowg" has done a dang good job keeping up with this thread and updates. I bet he had no idea it would become so popular and stay "On Fire" for as long as it has ... what surprises me is his Rep+ count hasn't soared into the hundreads by now? And as MenacingTuba has said, how do you get guys to read the darn OP??? This seems to be the bain of most popular/info threads.







... with time I've gotten use to it and it's taught me some self-discipline ... HeeHee








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> *says the guy who DEVELOPED a program for no other reason than to benefit other people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Haha thanks, that means a lot to me to find my work appreciated. Surely it must mean a lot to the others mentioned as well as they have contributed enormously too.
> 
> To be honest with you, it first started out of frustration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being a multi-monitor user, color profiles would get reset upon launching some games (I clearly remember BF3 being a culprit at this). Using a color profile enforcer such as CPKeeper, which was a good first stab at the problem, I would be able to preserve the color profile at least when using a single monitor; however, CPK would only detect displays upon launch and assign numbers to them, and would not detect displays as they got connected and disconnected while it was running, meaning that if you were to start with 2 monitors upon CPK launch and disabled one or flipped them around, the color profiles would flip around as well or the wrong color profile might be applied to the monitor still enabled. If you were to start with one monitor, then enable / connect another, CPK would not detect the newly enabled display and the color profile would not be set for that monitor. I also had to switch profiles whenever I switched refresh rates after I got the Qnix. If I were to disconnect the second monitor and plug in a TV, I would have to change the profile as well. Sometimes, CPK wouldn't even load its own settings and load the last profile I had set before a restart, for example.
> 
> Now you could see why I have included all those features in Color Sustainer
Click to expand...

DITTO ... the guy that writes the program that has made many of our experiences BETTER!








I hope many more will come to appreciate what your program has done for us ...
BAM another +R for your explanation above, I like it, will link it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Quote the first post, edit the information and change the Thread Title To : The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club: [Read 1st Post]. Don't Need [Official], need to encourage people to read the first post to prevent people from asking the same questions 10 billion times. Inlcude something like this
> 
> *What is the difference between the Super, Multi and Evolution Monitors*?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The Multi and Super can barely overclock, have a frame of input lag and the Multi TFT Central Reviewed (Source, Scroll down) used LED PWM Dimming or Flickers (Read about the side effects), even though these monitors are advertised as being Flicker Free


THIS ^^^ +R (also for PWM reminder!) ... notice how I slightly changed my sig link to here








Give "wntrsnowg" a PM, he knows who you are, and with your rep he'll listen








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Thanks for the advise.. I was thinking they are a safe bet..
> 
> what is the difference between these two listings?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00CI3EQA2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963550&sr=8-3&keywords=qnix+qx2710
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963650&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix+qx2710
> 
> Other than $10?
> 
> This may sound stupid, but I do not know much about these things other than this is the best of both worlds if I am looking for 1440p and a bit more hz as they can OC.. but these are what everyone's getting when they talk about the QNIX monitors right?
> 
> Last thing I want is to buy the wrong one haha..
> 
> So $360 ish is the going rate for perfect pixels right? from a safe vendor I would guess.


Just as Skorpion said ... pay close attention to the suppliers "Perfect Pixel" (most up to 5 defects) and a "*Ultimate* Perfect Pixel" no defects ... Honestly I would take the time to get what you want in writing (email confirmation), I'd choose MNW Global ... AND you can get the same monitor from Newegg for a little cheaper http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X59885 ... personally I like dealing w/Newegg have been doing so for a long time









WOW what the heck I have the $349 MNW Global link right in front of me but when I copy paste it goes to the $444 who??? link ... well I found this one but its an SE (slightly less stringent QC)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1JX0558

and here's a non SE ... NOTE: I can't immediately find any ULTIMATE Perfect pixels, but guys have decent luck at getting perfect pixel monitor with just the std order









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1U38315
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey guys, I really need your help. I had my qnix running at 110 hz and it verified in the UFO frame skip test. Now nothing works, for no reason I can understand. I haven't installed or done anything, but whatever I do, it's at 60hz. I can even see lag when i type this up (SLI 780Ti's btw). I tried deleting all my custom profiles and reentering them, with lawsons timings, but NOTHING sticks. I'm at 60 hz no matter what I do. What is going on here? Do i need to do a driver reinstall? I uninstalled geforce experience... I just don't get it, seriously need some help here cuz the difference between 60 and 110-120 is massive
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> You might want to boot into safe mode, and uninstall the drivers that way. I have had issues with the custom install before.
Click to expand...

I agree w/Roland, it's driver corruption







... remove everything ... GExperience/QNIX driver etc ... and start the whole process with a "clean!" install of your Nvidia drivers only ... Reboot! ... then proceed with QNIX driver ... reboot etc ... TEST ... I wouldn't add in GExperience until all is normal again .. I also don't think CRU is a good idea with Nvidia, but in desperation you could try it if the traditional Lawson procedure fails


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inchy97*
> 
> I dont run the skipping test full screen that was just a screen cap, even when i make it a smaller window it still says 50 fps when nvidia says 96 hz


This sounds obvious but did you make sure you actually selected the new profile created in Nvidia Control panel, I had the same problem and realised it doesn't automatically select your new customized profile, you have to actually select it from the list afterwards - Adam


----------



## Adam182

Recieved my two Xstars today, i still havn't got over the customs charges. To top it off I ordered matt screens but recieved glossy ones :/ - Adam


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Thanks for the advise.. I was thinking they are a safe bet..
> 
> what is the difference between these two listings?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00CI3EQA2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963550&sr=8-3&keywords=qnix+qx2710
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963650&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix+qx2710
> 
> Other than $10?
> 
> This may sound stupid, but I do not know much about these things other than this is the best of both worlds if I am looking for 1440p and a bit more hz as they can OC.. but these are what everyone's getting when they talk about the QNIX monitors right?
> 
> Last thing I want is to buy the wrong one haha..
> 
> So $360 ish is the going rate for perfect pixels right? from a safe vendor I would guess.


I'm not too privy on the Amazon sellers but chances are they are the same sellers as the ebay sellers, but have a small office located in the USA as well. I'm just guessing though. Both of those you listed say (Zero Pixel Defect), so that right there tells me they better be pixel perfect or I am calling Amazon and making a claim. Hell I am so worried about it I would call Amazon before I purchased it just to make sure of their policies on this stuff, lmao but that's me.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very good, had to R you for that link, thanks ... Just an unconfirmed insider tip, but QNIX is supposed to come out with an "A" panel (not A-) in true glossy overclocker (special order of A panels), when? ... not sure ... This would be great as "technically" the PLS is slightly superior to IPS ... Guess they're feeling the heat from the recent Cat2B pricing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as stands, the old standby (pun) is the Monoprice HERE
> ... Lawson has one, he likes it, he also said there would be no problem cutting back the feet 33%-50% if you found them to obtrusive, I also think he said it will work in Portrait if you lift the monitor slightly to set it.
> 
> THIS is probably the most popular one, looks nice!, but I don't think it will work in Portrait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HERE is another one that looks decent but I can't comment on ... ooops it has since disappeared with no relist


So the recent price cut on the Cat2B is permanent hence why Qnix/X-Star needs to step it up? If that's true. I will be ordering two in a heart beat.

Funny you linked to the HP one. I bought one last year thinking I would take apart my monitor and never got to it. Well, I ended up giving it to my boss which is now installed on his monitor. Doh!
Great price! I can't do the MonoPrice. It's too much of an eyesore for me lol. Price isn't bad though.

As always, thank you Tom +Rep


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I'm not too privy on the Amazon sellers but chances are they are the same sellers as the ebay sellers, but have a small office located in the USA as well. I'm just guessing though. Both of those you listed say (Zero Pixel Defect), so that right there tells me they better be pixel perfect or I am calling Amazon and making a claim. Hell I am so worried about it I would call Amazon before I purchased it just to make sure of their policies on this stuff, lmao but that's me.


Its almost $100 less than Newegg.. is that right?? Neweggs also werent perfect pixel..

Is this the way to go or am I missing something?

How big of an issue are these dead pixels for you guys? Anyone have a bad experience?
I feel like this a leap off a cliff.. bit worried.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Additionally "wntrsnowg" has done a dang good job keeping up with this thread and updates. I bet he had no idea it would become so popular and stay "On Fire" for as long as it has ... what surprises me is his Rep+ count hasn't soared into the hundreads by now? And as MenacingTuba has said, how do you get guys to read the darn OP??? This seems to be the bain of most popular/info threads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... with time I've gotten use to it and it's taught me some self-discipline ... HeeHee


Maybe these forums need a smart system that automatically demands that you re-read the OP (if the system deems the OP to be of a certain size, then it must contain a lot of info already), and also demands that you do a thorough search if there are more than 1000 pages in the thread. The site knows if you had the OP visible on your monitor and how long it stayed there, so why not use that data to enforce a thorough read, lol.


----------



## Ovrclck

Pages would be cut in half if people actually read the OP..









1. Read OP
2. Overclocking steps
3. Open can of favorite brew
4. ???
5. Profit


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Its almost $100 less than Newegg.. is that right?? Neweggs also werent perfect pixel..
> 
> Is this the way to go or am I missing something?
> 
> How big of an issue are these dead pixels for you guys? Anyone have a bad experience?
> I feel like this a leap off a cliff.. bit worried.


I love Newegg and have been a customer of theirs ever since they were first discovered, however they are not the same company as they once were. There was a time when you were always right and they just RMA'd the moment you complained about something. Now they, like many others will try and prevent you from returning something. Id still buy through Amazon before Id buy from Newegg, unless you want to use PayPal. Amazon still fights for the customer first and foremost.

Not only that but Amazon is easier to communicate with and will issue an RMA at your request without any questions asked. In our experience anyway


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I love Newegg and have been a customer of theirs ever since they were first discovered, however they are not the same company as they once were. There was a time when you were always right and they just RMA'd the moment you complained about something. Now they, like many others will try and prevent you from returning something. Id still buy through Amazon before Id buy from Newegg, unless you want to use PayPal. Amazon still fights for the customer first and foremost.
> 
> Not only that but Amazon is easier to communicate with and will issue an RMA at your request without any questions asked. In our experience anyway


Thanks. Took a moment to read the first post.. informative, but didn't answer my question of where to buy haha which I was kinda hoping it would when I saw everyone talking about reading the main post haha..

$360 isn't bad at all for this quality monitor.. I just feel I am missing something and the thing won't show up with a power cord or something.. and thats why its was $100 less or that I will get it and I will have like 5 obvious dead pixels and be sol....

Guess I will need to think about it some more..


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Maybe these forums need a smart system that automatically demands that you re-read the OP (if the system deems the OP to be of a certain size, then it must contain a lot of info already), and also demands that you do a thorough search if there are more than 1000 pages in the thread. The site knows if you had the OP visible on your monitor and how long it stayed there, so why not use that data to enforce a thorough read, lol.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Pages would be cut in half if people actually read the OP..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Read OP
> 2. Overclocking steps
> 3. Open can of favorite brew
> 4. ???
> 5. Profit
Click to expand...

There's gotta be a better way right? ... maybe a huge disclaimer/acknowledgement check-off when people join OCN, probably says it already ... well if all people paid more attention, then we'd miss out on a lot of fun ... ehhhh









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I love Newegg and have been a customer of theirs ever since they were first discovered, however they are not the same company as they once were. There was a time when you were always right and they just RMA'd the moment you complained about something. Now they, like many others will try and prevent you from returning something. Id still buy through Amazon before Id buy from Newegg, unless you want to use PayPal. Amazon still fights for the customer first and foremost.
> 
> Not only that but Amazon is easier to communicate with and will issue an RMA at your request without any questions asked. In our experience anyway


These are good business insights +R, I totally agree your thoughts on Newegg not being what they use to be, that's probably because too many *sswho*** took advantage of their professionalism ... BUT for me I still get the same RMA service, no ?'s asked, I got 10+yrs ago, I think it comes down to how you communicate and present your case









@JMattes ... it does feel like jumping off a cliff but as long as you take the time to nail down your supplier (in writing/email) your going to love the experience ... also note: pixel problems with 1440p are significantly less noticeable than say coming from 1080p/TN ... especially when your not on a pixel test screen


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @JMattes ... it does feel like jumping off a cliff but as long as you take the time to nail down your supplier (in writing/email) your going to love the experience ... also note: pixel problems with 1440p are significantly less noticeable than say coming from 1080p/TN ... especially when your not on a pixel test screen


Thanks for the reassurance.. What should I be asking the suppliers? Not sure what to get in writting honestly other than asking if it comes with a US compatible cable or does it come with a converter.. and the dead pixels.. Should I be asking about DVI-D? or anything like that?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE Newegg, and if you saw my account history you would think they love me too, haha probably $100,000.00 or more spent there in the last 13 years or so. 10 years ago I would not even look anywhere else for an item, heck 5 years ago I was still stuck on them. 10 years ago I could call them and always get a like minded tech on the phone that sounded like my twin brother, but about 5 years ago I noticed not so much as it was becoming more and more difficult to communicate with them as they competed in the industry. Selling cheaper and faster than anyone else for as long as they did has taken a toll on the quality of service I think... But I could be wrong as I have not been purchasing much since 2011.

I still purchase from Newegg more than anywhere else though, well second only to ebay. Amazon is my third go to site though. Mainly because I prefer to use Paypal for all my purchases. For an item such as this Korean monitor I would go to Amazon just because I know they will enforce the advertisements Zero Pixel Defect statement. I'm not 100% sure Newegg will or ebay for that matter, but Amazon will for sure. I can not remember a time when I called Amazon and asked to return a defective product and not instantly gotten approved.


----------



## GoldenboyXD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> Any new ICC profiles that improve whites and make it less eye fatiguing?
> 
> Forgot to mention that I'm using the year old model if that makes any difference.


The only effective method I've used so far is to do a bias light mod behind your monitor. It really works and saves your eyes and no headaches! There are many steps on how to do it and it may cost some or cost nothing if you have a lamp lying around









With those large monitor in your face and bright whites will surely give you headaches! lol


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I LOVE Newegg, and if you saw my account history you would think they love me too, haha probably $100,000.00 or more spent there in the last 13 years or so. 10 years ago I would not even look anywhere else for an item, heck 5 years ago I was still stuck on them. 10 years ago I could call them and always get a like minded tech on the phone that sounded like my twin brother, but about 5 years ago I noticed not so much as it was becoming more and more difficult to communicate with them as they competed in the industry. Selling cheaper and faster than anyone else for as long as they did has taken a toll on the quality of service I think... But I could be wrong as I have not been purchasing much since 2011.
> 
> I still purchase from Newegg more than anywhere else though, well second only to ebay. Amazon is my third go to site though. Mainly because I prefer to use Paypal for all my purchases. For an item such as this Korean monitor I would go to Amazon just because I know they will enforce the advertisements Zero Pixel Defect statement. I'm not 100% sure Newegg will or ebay for that matter, but Amazon will for sure. I can not remember a time when I called Amazon and asked to return a defective product and not instantly gotten approved.


What does that Zero Pixel Defect statement mean exactly? As the attached pictures say perfect pixel 3-5 dead are tolerance.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> What does that Zero Pixel Defect statement mean exactly? As the attached pictures say perfect pixel 3-5 dead are tolerance.


Zero Pixel Defect. The sellers clearly state *Perfect Pixel (Zero Pixel Defect)* and IMO that means Amazon would instantly stand behind you if you got a single dead or stuck pixel. Zero is Zero no matter how you look at it.

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00CI3EQA2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963550&sr=8-3&keywords=qnix+qx2710

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963650&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix+qx2710


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Zero Pixel Defect. The sellers clearly state *Perfect Pixel (Zero Pixel Defect)* and IMO that means Amazon would instantly stand behind you if you got a single dead or stuck pixel. Zero is Zero no matter how you look at it.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00CI3EQA2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963550&sr=8-3&keywords=qnix+qx2710
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-Perfect/dp/B00CAKD6LI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963650&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix+qx2710


Please check out before buying.
* Only for PC monitor (one DUAL LINK DVI-D port)
* Qnix Perfect Pixel (Zero Pixel Defect) monitor.
* By-Pass model (No Ad board in monitor - Monitor use graphic card resource)
* PC graphic board should surport DVI-D(Dual link DVI)
** On-board graphic card can not support QHD*.
* PC graphic card should surport QHD(2560x1440)

Is this QHD important? I thought they had QHD..


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Please check out before buying.
> * Only for PC monitor (one DUAL LINK DVI-D port)
> * Qnix Perfect Pixel (Zero Pixel Defect) monitor.
> * By-Pass model (No Ad board in monitor - Monitor use graphic card resource)
> * PC graphic board should surport DVI-D(Dual link DVI)
> ** On-board graphic card can not support QHD*.
> * PC graphic card should surport QHD(2560x1440)
> 
> Is this this QHD important?


Yeah, not sure exactly, but in the reviews I noticed when a buyer contacts the seller they confirm you have a proper graphics cards for the monitor. I think what they are trying to say is you lose the warranty if you order without the proper card from "their list of approved cards". But I could be wrong. It is hard to determine exactly what someone is saying when their 1st language is not english, lol.

I just like these ads because it says Zero Pixel Defect. Because of that I would buy from these sellers on Amazon, and I would communicate with them before hand to double check their dead pixel policy, and Amazon to make sure they will stand behind that statement as well.

The On-board statement is evidence that they believe Intel onboard graphics and AMD Apus do not work. However, AMD's latest APU's (and Intels for that matter) are about as close to dedicated graphics as you can get these days and they support Dual Link. So I do not see why it wouldn't work. *The seller is the one that will not support it if it happens to not work for you.* This is my opinion though. I have not seen any evidence myself that onboard graphics do or do not work. Maybe someone else can comment on that?

So, it is of my opinion that the sellers, not the monitor itself, but only the sellers that will not support you if your onboard graphics fails to power this monitor. That is why most of the ads have a chart of approved cards, because that is what *they want you to be using.*


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah, not sure exactly, but in the reviews I noticed when a buyer contacts the seller they confirm you have a proper graphics cards for the monitor. I think what they are trying to say is you lose the warranty if you order without the proper card from "their list of approved cards". But I could be wrong. It is hard to determine exactly what someone is saying when their 1st language is not english, lol.
> 
> I just like these ads because it says Zero Pixel Defect. Because of that I would buy from these sellers on Amazon, and I would communicate with them before hand to double check their dead pixel policy, and Amazon to make sure they will stand behind that statement as well.
> 
> The On-board statement is evidence that they believe Intel onboard graphics and AMD Apus do not work. However, AMD's latest APU's (and Intels for that matter) are about as close to dedicated graphics as you can get these days and they support Dual Link. So I do not see why it wouldn't work. *The seller is the one that will not support it if it happens to not work for you.* This is my opinion though. I have not seen any evidence myself that onboard graphics do or do not work. Maybe someone else can comment on that?
> 
> So, it is of my opinion that the sellers, not the monitor itself, but only the sellers that will not support you if your onboard graphics fails to power this monitor. That is why most of the ads have a chart of approved cards, because that is what *they want you to be using.*


Just had a chat with Amazon and they see the description and would support a claim if dead pixels were to be present, however if you look further in the images that you mentioned it said that its with zero defect tested, perfect monitor means,
RGB dot is zero, dark and white dots are up to 3 dots agreed to perfect pixel standard..

Very confusing and I dont know if the Amazon rep picked that up.. The image and the description are saying two different things or one thing, but very poorly in the description.

Where did everyone else get theirs from haha

I was looking at MNW Global based you guys recommendation but this one here is catching my eye

$369.50
& FREE Shipping
New

Pixel perfect, None defect pixel
96% positive over the past 12 months. (1,765 total ratings)

96% tho...


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Please check out before buying.
> * Only for PC monitor (one DUAL LINK DVI-D port)
> * Qnix Perfect Pixel (Zero Pixel Defect) monitor.
> * By-Pass model (No Ad board in monitor - Monitor use graphic card resource)
> * PC graphic board should surport DVI-D(Dual link DVI)
> ** On-board graphic card can not support QHD*.
> * PC graphic card should surport QHD(2560x1440)
> 
> Is this QHD important? I thought they had QHD..


As }SkOrPn--' stated, they want you to use a dedicated graphics card, and basically won't let you return it just because it doesn't work on your integrated graphics.

Edit: I have used the Qnix monitor with the integrated graphics on an old intel G45 motherboard with no problems. Sorry got myself confused. I'm not using the Qnix with the integrated graphics. The ads also say you can't use a displayport to DVI adaptor, but many, myself included have done so.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Just had a chat with Amazon and they see the description and would support a claim if dead pixels were to be present, however if you look further in the images that you mentioned it said that its with zero defect tested, perfect monitor means,
> RGB dot is zero, dark and white dots are up to 3 dots agreed to perfect pixel standard..
> 
> Very confusing and I dont know if the Amazon rep picked that up.. The image and the description are saying two different things or one thing, but very poorly in the description.
> 
> Where did everyone else get theirs from haha
> 
> I was looking at MNW Global based you guys recommendation but this one here is catching my eye
> 
> $369.50
> & FREE Shipping
> New
> 
> Pixel perfect, None defect pixel
> 96% positive over the past 12 months. (1,765 total ratings)
> 
> 96% tho...


Search for the "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" and read those descriptions as it states zero defect as well. Yes, I agree it is hard to cipher through all the sellers confusing statements. They are trying to grab your attention away from other sellers and sell you a monitor, but at the same time they are trying to protect themselves from the many defect panels that they know they ship. Again, you just have to read through the many posts here and decide on your own what you need to do. Also, you should realize that these pixels are VERY small with a ppi this high, so many are hard to even notice during normal use. I do not believe a single dead pixel would bother me, but a cluster surely would.

You also have options such as Overlord for the IPS panels which are fully tested before shipment, and IPSLEDMonitors dot com for PLS and IPS panels as well. In fact, their warranty statement is pretty darn convincing, but their lack of company history is also of concern. I like their add on 3-year extended warranty statement as well. I asked the BBB and they said they have never had a complaint about them yet. What I do not like is that I have sent two emails with questions and only got one reply. So they are at 50% reply communications with me so far. lol, which could mean nothing at all.


----------



## JMattes

The }SkOrPn--' you ib the market for one?

I think I need go see a 1440p and a 144hz monitor in a store to see if it is really worth all this fuss..


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Just had a chat with Amazon and they see the description and would support a claim if dead pixels were to be present, however if you look further in the images that you mentioned it said that its with zero defect tested, perfect monitor means,
> RGB dot is zero, dark and white dots are up to 3 dots agreed to perfect pixel standard..
> 
> Very confusing and I dont know if the Amazon rep picked that up.. The image and the description are saying two different things or one thing, but very poorly in the description.
> 
> Where did everyone else get theirs from haha
> 
> I was looking at MNW Global based you guys recommendation but this one here is catching my eye
> 
> $369.50
> & FREE Shipping
> New
> 
> Pixel perfect, None defect pixel
> 96% positive over the past 12 months. (1,765 total ratings)
> 
> 96% tho...


The pixel warranty "can" be the most frustrating part of this purchase, the suppliers are all over the place with their warranties AND WHAT actually denotes an unacceptable pixel defect or not, Dead vs Stuck?, many only consider a stuck "bright" pixel as a defect ... what??? so-on so-on








I can't see the link to the exact model you refer to above so I maybe can decipher their particular policy for you ...
BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE








Check this new policy from accessorieswhole, which has been a fairly popular supplier over the years here at OCN ...
QUOTE: form their ad *HERE* ...

_Perfect pixel Monitor Panel specification

No Dead pixel, No Stuck pixel guaranteed!
Free shipping, free charge of return and full refund assured!
Don't get bothered by defective pixel, No more.
AccessoriesWhole's perfect pixel monitor will blow out your worries.
If you don't understand the meaning of Dead or Stuck Pixel,
you can search "Defective pixel" on Wikipedia and get the information.
All monitors sold in AccessoriesWhole take three times inspection before its shipment.
AccessoriesWhole do utmost to provide best service.
_

This is what you want! They'll even cover "Return Shipping" which from the US is a big deal for us as it can cost $150!
AND HERE is the link for Wiki definition for "defective pixel" ...
Looks like these guys are trying hard to please!

Within the USA, another option I forgot to mention (DoH) is buying form ebay in the 3rd party Auction for Like New or Used ... this will take some patience, for when they come available, and knowledge to properly Quiz the seller through ebays email (for on the record reference) before the sale, having the seller clearly state condition regarding bad pixels / BLB / and even overclock potential ... Ebays Buyer Protection plan is quite solid if you have your terms documented beyond what he may have said or left out of the original ad ... and if your not happy your cost is only appx $30 return shipping, for your full refund









This is what I did ... Open Box (like new) perfect pixel / some BLB / rock solid 120Hz overclocker for $225+$15ship. I had good comms with the guy and felt like I was buying a monitor from someone like myself









None are available right now ... but just 3 days ago there were 3 that sold from $220 to $280 depending, some even with stated overclocks of 110Hz and one w/120Hz ...

Follow this link ...
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_Auction=1&_nkw=QX2710&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=3

Don't forget the X-Star ... same as the QNIX
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=dp2710&rt=nc&LH_Auction=1

And here's the link to past sales, so you can see what the market has been like ...
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_Auction=1&_nkw=QX2710&LH_PrefLoc=3&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&rt=nc


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> The }SkOrPn--' you ib the market for one?
> 
> I think I need go see a 1440p and a 144hz monitor in a store to see if it is really worth all this fuss..


Am I in the Market for one? Not one built by Qnix or Xstar, because I am rolling my own custom monitor build based on LG's IPS panel... If I trusted the Qnix electronics a little more and had more resources for replacement parts for these Qnix I would probably go this route for sure. But I've chosen IPS because its easier to replace parts as needed.


----------



## Adam182

We always get the raw deal over here in the UK, you guys are getting great deals in the US regardless. It costs us nearly $500usd to get them to the UK - Adam


----------



## Yvese

For anyone that has OC'd their monitor to 120hz, how long have you had it? Just curious how OCing affects lifespan. I just got mine yesterday and currently have it OC'd to 96. Don't see the need to go higher since getting close to 96 fps at this res is hard enough.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> We always get the raw deal over here in the UK, you guys are getting great deals in the US regardless. It costs us nearly $500usd to get them to the UK - Adam


I'm not sure what the point is of this statement. Many sellers only charge $20 to ship to the UK, and some do not charge you any difference at all. My best friend who lives in Merseyside UK paid the same for his 1600p monitor that I would have paid.


----------



## spiderxjz82

My three cost almost exactly $1200, so around $400 each and that was with me getting lucky on the import taxes, which you guys in the USA don't have due to the free trade agreement I think.


----------



## Digitalrule

I live in Canada and recently got my monitor. Just wanted to mention that I had to pay $60 in import fees on my monitor, which is contrary to the information to the FAQ. Hope you update it so other people aren't as surprised as I was. Luckily it wasn't a big deal for me, but I just don't like to see false information being spread.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Digitalrule*
> 
> I live in Canada and recently got my monitor. Just wanted to mention that I had to pay $60 in import fees on my monitor, which is contrary to the information to the FAQ. Hope you update it so other people aren't as surprised as I was. Luckily it wasn't a big deal for me, but I just don't like to see false information being spread.


Just to put that in perspective I live in the uk I paid £105 thats $189.04 canadian dollars sleep well my son imagine if my monitor had defects and I had to send it back etc.....


----------



## twizllerson69

I received my X-Star Pixel Perfect Multi monitor yesterday. It came packaged quite well and it was bubble wrapped. I live in Canada and i asked the seller which was dream-seller, to mark it as a gift valued at $120 and i never got charged for duty.

So far i didn't notice any dead pixels and blb is at a minimum. I do have some slight glow, but it is not noticeable at all. The stand it came with seems to be good, i do not have any issues with it.

At this point in time i only have a laptop (switchable graphics - intel/amd) with HDMI output so i am very limited (running at [email protected]). Guess i know what i'll be buying on black friday









Overall i am extremely satisfied with the product, especially the price. I am coming from a 15inch laptop monitor so this is a drastic change for me. I have to get used to the size of the monitor, and the 55hz refresh rate for now.

Owners of the mutli version, what color profiles are you using and what are your brightness and gamma settings? My brightness is set to 64 and gamma at 92 which is almost maxed out.

This is my first high-def display and i am extremely happy with it. Thank you overclock for this thread!


----------



## Ovrclck

So I had some time tonight and decided to remove the tempered glass. Wasn't hard at all! I used a pocket knife to break the glue and the glass came off shatter free. I also removed the panel and bent the frame back. I believe it's matte underneath. What's funny though, the tempered glass didn't add anything except unwanted glare lol. Crazy how much sharper everything looks. I need to pickup some washers for my vesa mount tomorrow and can get the pictures posted then.

Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> What's funny though, the tempered glass didn't add anything except unwanted glare lol.


That and lots of protection from possible scratches I would think. Plus the glass is much easier to clean and less stressful when cleaning lol.

I bet my glass still won't be there for very long though lmao.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> That and lots of protection from possible scratches I would think. Plus the glass is much easier to clean and less stressful when cleaning lol.
> 
> I bet my glass still won't be there for very long though lmao.


The only thing I can see scratching the screen is dust. I use "delicate tasks wipes" to spot clean the screen as needed.

As long as you're not poking the screen with a pencil, you should be fine lol


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> The only thing I can see scratching the screen is dust. I use "delicate tasks wipes" to spot clean the screen as needed.
> 
> As long as you're not poking the screen with a pencil, you should be fine lol


Depends if you have kids you don't need the glass for adults they only put it on for kids and drunk people







///


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> Depends if you have kids you don't need the glass for adults they only put it on for kids and drunk people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ///


Some adults still act like children


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Some adults still act like children


that was the drunk people part I had to buy a 55 inche acrilic screen for my perfect TV which now reflects the entire room such is the pain of children. Ehem and adults wives ehem etc,,,,,


----------



## sinnedone

lol,

Babysitting a 10 month old and sat him on my desk. First thing he did was put his slobbery hand on my screen.









Right after that he proceeded to bang on the keyboard. Lucky he was cute, my older kids know better.


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> For anyone that has OC'd their monitor to 120hz, how long have you had it? Just curious how OCing affects lifespan. I just got mine yesterday and currently have it OC'd to 96. Don't see the need to go higher since getting close to 96 fps at this res is hard enough.


I have had mine at 120Hz for over a year. Nothing bad has happened.

In other news, I setup my 2 new monitors. They only overclock to 110Hz, so I have to run my original monitor at 110Hz instead of 120Hz. Games look amazing at 7680x1440 110Hz! I have two ASUS 970s powering these bad boys.


----------



## dpl2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I have had mine at 120Hz for over a year. Nothing bad has happened.
> 
> In other news, I setup my 2 new monitors. They only overclock to 110Hz, so I have to run my original monitor at 110Hz instead of 120Hz. Games look amazing at 7680x1440 110Hz! I have two ASUS 970s powering these bad boys.


apart from his wife left him he played too many games aha haa ha ok that was bad....


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twizllerson69*
> 
> I received my X-Star Pixel Perfect Multi monitor yesterday.


Can you (*and everyone else*







) test for LED PWM Dimming with this test? Make sure to read the instructions and lower the brightness from 100-0% since some monitors are only PWM Free down to a certain % brightness (usually 20-30%). Read about the side effects caused by PWM here. These multi-input AHVA Qnix/X-Star are advertised as Flicker/PWM Free monitors.


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I have had mine at 120Hz for over a year. Nothing bad has happened.
> 
> In other news, I setup my 2 new monitors. They only overclock to 110Hz, so I have to run my original monitor at 110Hz instead of 120Hz. Games look amazing at 7680x1440 110Hz! I have two ASUS 970s powering these bad boys.


Good to hear. Unfortunately for me mine artifacts at 120hz









Think I'll stick to 96 for now. A single 290 wont get near that in demanding games anyway


----------



## ebhsimon

Apparently more 4K QNIX 28" and 32" coming soon. It says OC in the title, but I doubt they're going to be able to be OCed. Although if you can OC these then they are going to be the one to replace my 110hz QNIX. I always said I'm either going to use my QNIX until it dies or something superceeds it, but PLS, 1440p, 27" and 110hz is pretty hard to beat.

source: http://www.gamersnexus.net/news-pc/1654-qnix-korean-4k-displays-coming-soon


----------



## jameyscott

Interesting. Not going to be picking one up any time soon, but could be on the short list for my editing rig when i decide to add an extra monitor to it.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebhsimon*
> 
> Apparently more 4K QNIX 28" and 32" coming soon. It says OC in the title, but I doubt they're going to be able to be OCed. Although if you can OC these then they are going to be the one to replace my 110hz QNIX. I always said I'm either going to use my QNIX until it dies or something superceeds it, but PLS, 1440p, 27" and 110hz is pretty hard to beat.
> 
> source: http://www.gamersnexus.net/news-pc/1654-qnix-korean-4k-displays-coming-soon


Ohmagurd.

Well, guess I know what I'm getting.


----------



## ebhsimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Ohmagurd.
> 
> Well, guess I know what I'm getting.




__
https://www.reddit.com/r/2iwdjx/500_korean_4k_displays_coming_soon_28_32_qnix_oc/

There's a discussion there and the author's username is 'JD_and_ChocolateBear' if you want to see his comments on it.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebhsimon*
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/2iwdjx/500_korean_4k_displays_coming_soon_28_32_qnix_oc/
> 
> There's a discussion there and the author's username is 'JD_and_ChocolateBear' if you want to see his comments on it.


I'd really like to stick with one panel and if these beat my current 1440p in every way I'm so getting one.
That being said:
<8ms response time
IPS/PLS panel
>60hz (96+hz OC)

Doubt it will be done.


----------



## MenacingTuba

4K 28"=TN and the 32" 1440p Qnix has been out for a while.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> 28"=TN and the 32" 1440p Qnix has been out for a while.


I was referring to the 4k displays, I already have a 1440p monitor.


----------



## ozzy1925

sorry for bothering you guys but as i see many of you are familiar with dead pixels i have bought asus swift yesterday but i realized some tiny black spots on the screen.I cant tell if its dead pixel or dust can you help me ?




Dont bother the ghosting circle on the top its because of camera


----------



## Phantatsy

Looks like 3 dead pixels to me.


----------



## hutt132

I have 3 monitors and color profiles for each monitor. When I turn on surround in the NVIDIA control panel, it makes the computer think it is one large panel which shows up in Color Management in Windows and Color Profile Keeper. So I can only set one color profile which will affect all three displays. Is there any way to apply a color profile to each monitor when in surround?


----------



## Smitty258

I'm seriously considering one of these monitors, and I had a question that I didn't find in the FAQ in the OP.

I see that some are advertised as an "SE" model and some are not. What's the difference?

Thanks!


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I'm not sure what the point is of this statement. Many sellers only charge $20 to ship to the UK, and some do not charge you any difference at all. My best friend who lives in Merseyside UK paid the same for his 1600p monitor that I would have paid.


There wasn't a point as such i was just having a whinge. Yes many sellers do ship for $20, mine shipped for free but the customs troll got hold of it and slapped whopping duty/tax fees onto them. I just want everyone to be aware and prevent any possible heart attacks when the UK customs phonecall comes - Adam


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I agree w/Roland, it's driver corruption
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... remove everything ... GExperience/QNIX driver etc ... and start the whole process with a "clean!" install of your Nvidia drivers only ... Reboot! ... then proceed with QNIX driver ... reboot etc ... TEST ... I wouldn't add in GExperience until all is normal again .. I also don't think CRU is a good idea with Nvidia, but in desperation you could try it if the traditional Lawson procedure fails


This is incredibly frustrating. I tried what you said. booted into safe mode, uninstalled everything, ran driver sweeper, disconnected from the internet to ensure it didn't install drivers automatically when booting into windows. I did a new clean install after this and just installed the driver itself, rebooted, installed qnix driver, rebooted. Tried adding a custom resolution in NVCP, applied, saw scan lines, adjusted timings, applied, all good.

Then, when checking in UFO frame skip test it's 60hz. I have no idea what's going on. Is there any other way of verifying what hz you are running at? I am starting to wonder if that page is bugging out in my chrome or something. It worked before. Maybe i should try older drivers?

I even get image retention when leaving the screen on, which is consistent with a 110 or 120hz overclock. That never happens when using a standard 60hz resolution. Could UFO be wrong??

edit: I see when I try to run the full patcher that SLI limit 2 is not found. Does this indicate something?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So I had some time tonight and decided to remove the tempered glass. Wasn't hard at all! I used a pocket knife to break the glue and the glass came off shatter free. I also removed the panel and bent the frame back. I believe it's matte underneath. What's funny though, the tempered glass didn't add anything except unwanted glare lol. Crazy how much sharper everything looks. I need to pickup some washers for my vesa mount tomorrow and can get the pictures posted then.
> 
> Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


Nice Info! +R ... would be great if you had a few pics so people could see how simple this process is if you take your time









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebhsimon*
> 
> Apparently more 4K QNIX 28" and 32" coming soon. It says OC in the title, but I doubt they're going to be able to be OCed. Although if you can OC these then they are going to be the one to replace my 110hz QNIX. I always said I'm either going to use my QNIX until it dies or something superceeds it, but PLS, 1440p, 27" and 110hz is pretty hard to beat.
> 
> source: http://www.gamersnexus.net/news-pc/1654-qnix-korean-4k-displays-coming-soon


Hmmm kinda sounds like the same inside info I got, but I'll expand on it ...

Coming soon ... XMas?








1) QNIX 32" 4K Samsung/TN 60Hz / may OC slightly
2) Yamakasi 28" 4K ... not sure but will be interesting to see if they use an LG IPS???
3) QNIX PLS 1440p OC special order of "A" panels in true Glossy

Maybe MenacingTuba will comment on this









Additionally, I'm not impressed with Michael Kerns (author article) ....

Quote ...
_It should be noted that the QNIX uses the *same* panels as high-end monitors from Dell and Apple,_

WHAT? ... is he kidding? Maybe it's a "typo" and he meant to say "same type"








He should have MenacingTuba edit his articles









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebhsimon*
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/2iwdjx/500_korean_4k_displays_coming_soon_28_32_qnix_oc/%5B/URL
> [/B]
> 
> More than half those guys need to come over here and learn about the beauty of IPS/PLS [email protected] vs TN ...
> any TN panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'JD_and_ChocolateBear' Quote: ... _We expect it to be 60hz, but confirmation on specs will come next week.
> _ ...
> WHAT??? U28D590D has done 60Hz (DPort1.2) since day one, 7mos ago. But it is still TN. The guy is probably fairly knowledgeable but the quality of questions ??? Well let's just say we "May" have learned a lot more but alas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll stick with TFT and guys like MenacingTuba
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> sorry for bothering you guys but as i see many of you are familiar with dead pixels i have bought asus swift yesterday but i realized some tiny black spots on the screen.I cant tell if its dead pixel or dust can you help me ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont bother the ghosting circle on the top its because of camera
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed ... 3 bad for sure ... maybe 31/2? Looks like another one is ready to go right next to the single one (top).
> Also got to say that ghosting also looks like a commonly seen defect?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Smitty258*
> 
> I'm seriously considering one of these monitors, and I had a question that I didn't find in the FAQ in the OP.
> 
> I see that some are advertised as an "SE" model and some are not. What's the difference?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> SE denotes Second Edition and has less stringent quality control especially for pixel defects ... info from QNIX, they are charged less for these panels, hence the slightly lower price ....
> BUT from previous user/buyers reports here, I haven't seen a noticeable drop off in quality compared to the non SE models that the guys have received!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> This is incredibly frustrating. I tried what you said. booted into safe mode, uninstalled everything, ran driver sweeper, disconnected from the internet to ensure it didn't install drivers automatically when booting into windows. I did a new clean install after this and just installed the driver itself, rebooted, installed qnix driver, rebooted. Tried adding a custom resolution in NVCP, applied, saw scan lines, adjusted timings, applied, all good.
> 
> Then, when checking in UFO frame skip test it's 60hz. I have no idea what's going on. Is there any other way of verifying what hz you are running at? I am starting to wonder if that page is bugging out in my chrome or something. It worked before. Maybe i should try older drivers?
> 
> I even get image retention when leaving the screen on, which is consistent with a 110 or 120hz overclock. That never happens when using a standard 60hz resolution. Could UFO be wrong??
> 
> edit: I see when I try to run the full patcher that SLI limit 2 is not found. Does this indicate something?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmmm ... testufo is notorious for causing some people a lot of trouble ... but it is the definitive way to test for frame dropping while overclocked.
> 0) Try an overclock like 96Hz even 85Hz without custom timings for a test?
> 1) Chrome browser in a window, not full screen?
> 2) Single monitor only ... disconnect all other monitors/TV's etc if any ...
> 2a) maybe try a single card, maybe try the patcher again for SLI?
> 3) Verify Windows recognized overclocks by going into certain game menus (UI) like Bad Company 2 / BF3 / BF4 and see if you can set a custom refresh rate in the Graphics menu? IE. you should see refresh rate options like 96Hz / 110Hz / 120Hz depending on what profiles you have, as options in the game menu.
> 4) Go into a known app (game, like Counter Strike?) where you know you can consistently pull higher FPS than your OC (refresh rate) put Vsync ON in NVCP, then use fraps (or whatever) and see if your FPS is syncing (capping) with your overclock 96Hz=96fps.
> 5) If your familiar with fast paced gaming @ 60Hz you'll probably feel the difference @96Hz and for sure @110-120Hz?
> 
> This is an often to common problem with testufo, although I've never experienced it ... maybe others can add some more insight here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe post over in 120Hz.net and get ToastyX's attention?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I have 3 monitors and color profiles for each monitor. When I turn on surround in the NVIDIA control panel, it makes the computer think it is one large panel which shows up in Color Management in Windows and Color Profile Keeper. So I can only set one color profile which will affect all three displays. Is there any way to apply a color profile to each monitor when in surround?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmmm did you miss the many Yasamoka posts? ... *LIKE THIS ONE*
> Try Yaz's "Color Sustainer" it's in the OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> What is the point of installing the monitor driver for NVIDIA users? I didn't install it and I overclocked my three monitors just fine to 110Hz with the tightened timings in the control panel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> NONE ... but maybe try reading other's posts within the last few days ???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like *HERE* ... 4 days ago
Click to expand...


----------



## jameyscott

Funilly enough the one monitor out of my four that has a stuck pixel was my non-se. The rest are dang near perfect.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> This is incredibly frustrating. I tried what you said. booted into safe mode, uninstalled everything, ran driver sweeper, disconnected from the internet to ensure it didn't install drivers automatically when booting into windows. I did a new clean install after this and just installed the driver itself, rebooted, installed qnix driver, rebooted. Tried adding a custom resolution in NVCP, applied, saw scan lines, adjusted timings, applied, all good.
> 
> Then, when checking in UFO frame skip test it's 60hz. I have no idea what's going on. Is there any other way of verifying what hz you are running at? I am starting to wonder if that page is bugging out in my chrome or something. It worked before. Maybe i should try older drivers?
> 
> I even get image retention when leaving the screen on, which is consistent with a 110 or 120hz overclock. That never happens when using a standard 60hz resolution. Could UFO be wrong??
> 
> edit: I see when I try to run the full patcher that SLI limit 2 is not found. Does this indicate something?


I currently have two monitors set up in SLI(two of my three Qnix). The UFOTest shows the frequencies accurately just now, but last week, same setup, it didn't. Like Tomcat said above, try in games or something and see what you get.
You don't need the sli patcher for 780 series cards, so I wouldn't install that. I'm not even using the Qnix.ini "driver" either. Just the latest nvidia drivers (including Geforce Experience).


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Then, when checking in UFO frame skip test it's 60hz. found.


Ive gotten the ufo test to show correctly once after playing around with different refresh rates and right after a reboot.

No matter what refresh rate I have (96/110/120) it always shows 60.

I don't trust it to verify my clocks. Just take your mouse and move it in a circle while watching the pointnter. You should be able to tell the difference.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> would be great if you had a few pics so people could see how simple this process is if you take your time


The hardest part for me was getting the bezel off. Once I figured out where all the tabs were located. It went quick after that.

*Removing the bezel with a flat head will cause damage to the bezel!*
I didn't really care as I will be debezelling soon anyways.

*Malachi hard at work.







*


*After removing the bezel, this is what I uncovered. I believe this is what was causing the bulge on the bottom right corner of my screen.*


*The Glass will shatter if you try to pull or rip it off! Also, please don't use a screw driver as it will crack the glass*

I used a knife and it slide through like butter



*I should have taken pictures of how I removed the backlight connector. I know some have broke the tabs off.
Basically, grab a small screwdriver, depress one side, use your other thumb, wiggle and pull up.*



*Looks like a matte finish to me*

*Much better!*


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> The hardest part for me was getting the bezel off. Once I figured out where all the tabs were located. It went quick after that.
> 
> *Removing the bezel with a flat head will cause damage to the bezel!*
> I didn't really care as I will be debezelling soon anyways.
> 
> *Malachi hard at work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> *After removing the bezel, this is what I uncovered. I believe this is what was causing the bulge on the bottom right corner of my screen.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *The Glass will shatter if you try to pull or rip it off! Also, please don't use a screw driver as it will crack the glass*
> 
> I used a knife and it slide through like butter
> 
> 
> 
> *I should have taken pictures of how I removed the backlight connector. I know some have broke the tabs off.
> Basically, grab a small screwdriver, depress one side, use your other thumb, wiggle and pull up.*
> 
> 
> 
> *Looks like a matte finish to me*
> 
> *Much better!*


Very Nice ... +R your racking 'em up this week!








Holy crap that is one bent corner and must have been causing some serious BLB? Looks like a QNIX tech dropped it on the floor and then just said what the heck need to meet my quota today, yikes








Little too late but here's the tabs locations, I used a plastic spatula too reduce damage


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> The hardest part for me was getting the bezel off. Once I figured out where all the tabs were located. It went quick after that.
> 
> *Removing the bezel with a flat head will cause damage to the bezel!*
> I didn't really care as I will be debezelling soon anyways.
> 
> *Malachi hard at work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> *After removing the bezel, this is what I uncovered. I believe this is what was causing the bulge on the bottom right corner of my screen.*
> 
> 
> *The Glass will shatter if you try to pull or rip it off! Also, please don't use a screw driver as it will crack the glass*
> 
> I used a knife and it slide through like butter
> 
> 
> 
> *I should have taken pictures of how I removed the backlight connector. I know some have broke the tabs off.
> Basically, grab a small screwdriver, depress one side, use your other thumb, wiggle and pull up.*
> 
> 
> 
> *Looks like a matte finish to me*
> 
> *Much better!*


i am curious what stand are you using ?

Also guys. does any of you can tell me where to find Free Shipping adequate stand for this monitor.. ebay/aliexpress anywhere.. i just can't stand this whooply thing.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i am curious what stand are you using ?


Ergotron. I "borrowed" it from work









Link


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very Nice ... +R your racking 'em up this week!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy crap that is one bent corner and must have been causing some serious BLB? Looks like a QNIX tech dropped it on the floor and then just said what the heck need to meet my quota today, yikes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little too late but here's the tabs locations, I used a plastic spatula too reduce damage


Oh yeah! Major BLB. Most of it is all gone except for panel bleed.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Looks like 3 dead pixels to me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Agreed ... 3 bad for sure ... maybe 31/2? Looks like another one is ready to go right next to the single one (top).
> Also got to say that ghosting also looks like a commonly seen defect?


thanks guys there is 2 more like these on the left top.Do you think asus will replace this?


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Originally Posted by hutt132 View Post
> 
> I have 3 monitors and color profiles for each monitor. When I turn on surround in the NVIDIA control panel, it makes the computer think it is one large panel which shows up in Color Management in Windows and Color Profile Keeper. So I can only set one color profile which will affect all three displays. Is there any way to apply a color profile to each monitor when in surround?
> 
> Hmmm did you miss the many Yasamoka posts? ... LIKE THIS ONE
> Try Yaz's "Color Sustainer" it's in the OP wink.gif


I tried Yaz's Color Sustainer v1.05.

First, it does not support 110Hz. I'm running my three monitors in surround at 110Hz and Color Sustainer does not detect 110Hz. It only shows 59Hz and 60Hz, and when I add the .icc profile for 60Hz, it keeps turning my color profile off...

Second, Color Sustainer only detects there being one display when in surround. So I can't add a color profile to each monitor while in surround. Is this even possible?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I tried Yaz's Color Sustainer v1.05.
> 
> First, it does not support 110Hz. I'm running my three monitors in surround at 110Hz and Color Sustainer does not detect 110Hz. It only shows 59Hz and 60Hz, and when I add the .icc profile for 60Hz, it keeps turning my color profile off...
> 
> Second, Color Sustainer only detects there being one display when in surround. So I can't add a color profile to each monitor while in surround. Is this even possible?


I don't have an Nvidia / SLi system to test on so I can't yet know why Color Sustainer fails to detect custom resolutions defined in NvCP. However, CRU works. In surround, Windows detects the whole array of displays as a single display so unfortunately, there is no way to apply color profiles for separate monitors until Nvidia, AMD, Microsoft work on the issue.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Ive gotten the ufo test to show correctly once after playing around with different refresh rates and right after a reboot.
> 
> No matter what refresh rate I have (96/110/120) it always shows 60.
> 
> I don't trust it to verify my clocks. Just take your mouse and move it in a circle while watching the pointnter. You should be able to tell the difference.


Hmmm Thanks for the reply, glad to see I'm not alone here. I *think* I can see the difference, but it's hard to tell really. how do I verify it in games? Just force vsync and play?

Edit: Tried vsync, game locks to 60hz. I am just not getting this. The only change I've made is I tried to run color sustainer, could that be the culprit? If so, How do I go about fixing it?
I am tempted to restore my system from an image created like 3 weeks ago. I'll have to fix a lot of stuff on my computer but I have no idea where to go next here.

It's so weird that I clearly see the gamma shift and the scan lines, but windows just isn't cooperating actually using or "seeing" the refresh rate.


----------



## latprod

I noticed a weird thing when looking at the OC guide and the timings...

Here's mine:



And here is the one in the guide:



My refresh rate comes out as 86.70khz, and in the guide it's 173.40....

What's up with that? Is that the reason mine's not working?

As far as I can see everything else is identical.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I tried Yaz's Color Sustainer v1.05.
> 
> First, it does not support 110Hz. I'm running my three monitors in surround at 110Hz and Color Sustainer does not detect 110Hz. It only shows 59Hz and 60Hz, and when I add the .icc profile for 60Hz, it keeps turning my color profile off...
> 
> Second, Color Sustainer only detects there being one display when in surround. So I can't add a color profile to each monitor while in surround. Is this even possible?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I don't have an Nvidia / SLi system to test on so I can't yet know why Color Sustainer fails to detect custom resolutions defined in NvCP. However, CRU works. In surround, Windows detects the whole array of displays as a single display so unfortunately, there is no way to apply color profiles for separate monitors until Nvidia, AMD, Microsoft work on the issue.
Click to expand...

Well this is very strange ... we know it (even 110Hz) works with other Nvidia Surround or Multi-Monitor setups ... most recently Roland2 and latprod ... maybe exchange ideas/info with them? Do you have any trouble when testing just a "single" monitor setup?

@Yaz ... why wouldn't the "global" setting work for latprod? Seems to for others?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hmmm Thanks for the reply, glad to see I'm not alone here. I *think* I can see the difference, but it's hard to tell really. how do I verify it in games? Just force vsync and play?
> 
> Edit: Tried vsync, game locks to 60hz. I am just not getting this. The only change I've made is I tried to run color sustainer, could that be the culprit? If so, How do I go about fixing it?
> I am tempted to restore my system from an image created like 3 weeks ago. I'll have to fix a lot of stuff on my computer but I have no idea where to go next here.
> 
> It's so weird that I clearly see the gamma shift and the scan lines, but windows just isn't cooperating actually using or "seeing" the refresh rate.


Did you try ALL my previous suggestions, single card, single monitor etc?
What game? Are you sure it had custom refresh rate settings to begin with?
1st check what your max fps is in game with vsync disabled? ... it needs to be consistently higher than your monitors overclock/refresh rate, lets use 96Hz, and if your fps is consistently above that, say 100-120fps then good! Now enable vsync, both in NVCP and in game and see if your fps sync's up to 96Hz(your OC)=96fps capped. Note you might see 1-2fps variations and in certain scenes it might go haywire altogether, But the majority of the time it should be "sync'ed".

Also note if your seeing gamma shift, than more than likely your OC is being applied.
I think it's a good idea to get back to basics for OC trouble shooting of any kind, starting with minimal hardware, including single monitor so-on ...
You're making some progress! So hang in there








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I noticed a weird thing when looking at the OC guide and the timings...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine:
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the one in the guide:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My refresh rate comes out as 86.70khz, and in the guide it's 173.40....
> 
> What's up with that? Is that the reason mine's not working?
> 
> As far as I can see everything else is identical.


Not sure why this is but I don't believe it's relevant ... what's most important there is both of your total pixel settings when trying custom timings ...
BUT for trouble shooting purposes I wouldn't use custom (tightened) timings AT ALL!
Just use the standard Nvidia timings, don't change anything


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well this is very strange ... we know it (even 110Hz) works with other Nvidia Surround or Multi-Monitor setups ... most recently Roland2 and latprod ... maybe exchange ideas/info with them? Do you have any trouble when testing just a "single" monitor setup?
> 
> @Yaz ... why wouldn't the "global" setting work for latprod? Seems to for others?
> Did you try ALL my previous suggestions, single card, single monitor etc?
> What game? Are you sure it had custom refresh rate settings to begin with?
> 1st check what your max fps is in game with vsync disabled? ... it needs to be consistently higher than your monitors overclock/refresh rate, lets use 96Hz, and if your fps is consistently above that, say 100-120fps then good! Now enable vsync, both in NVCP and in game and see if your fps sync's up to 96Hz(your OC)=96fps capped. Note you might see 1-2fps variations and in certain scenes it might go haywire altogether, But the majority of the time it should be "sync'ed".
> 
> Also note if your seeing gamma shift, than more than likely your OC is being applied.
> I think it's a good idea to get back to basics for OC trouble shooting of any kind, starting with minimal hardware, including single monitor so-on ...
> You're making some progress! So hang in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure why this is but I don't believe it's relevant ... what's most important there is both of your total pixel settings when trying custom timings ...
> BUT for trouble shooting purposes I wouldn't use custom (tightened) timings AT ALL!
> Just use the standard Nvidia timings, don't change anything


Tomcat, I think you miss read this. They are talking about color sustainer, not overclocking.


----------



## MenacingTuba

I've taken apart my glossy X-Star 3 times (frame was straight each time) and failed to fix the bleed in the top right where the panel is also loose (panel play). Guess it is time to attempt using tape.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Tomcat, I think you miss read this. They are talking about color sustainer, not overclocking.


Sorry if I miss read it ... I thought you used Color Sustainer with your overclocked multi-monitor setup?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Sorry if I miss read it ... I thought you used Color Sustainer with your overclocked multi-monitor setup?


Nope, I have used my own colorimeter when I have them separate, but not when I'm using Nvidia Surround.


----------



## latprod

@TomcatV Just wanted to say thanks man, you are so incredibly helpful on this forum. So cheers! I've tried all of the above, No result. So, I went ahead and restored a system image from about a month ago, and now it's at 110hz confirmed in UFO. I have no idea why, but I'm terrified to change/update anything







Mind you, this is using CRU and the patcher...(as it was before i read the updated thread on the front page).. Pretty scared to try anything new


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Nope, I have used my own colorimeter when I have them separate, but not when I'm using Nvidia Surround.


I use my own colorimeter as well, but apply the profiles using Color Sustainer.

@TomcatV: I'll go into more detail on the issue later, I guess.


----------



## hutt132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I don't have an Nvidia / SLi system to test on so I can't yet know why Color Sustainer fails to detect custom resolutions defined in NvCP. However, CRU works. In surround, Windows detects the whole array of displays as a single display so unfortunately, there is no way to apply color profiles for separate monitors until Nvidia, AMD, Microsoft work on the issue.


Since it detects it as one large display, is it possible to make it apply a .icc profile to a certain portion of the resolution, if that makes sense.

So for instance, Windows detects it as one giant monitor with res 7680x1440. Could you make it so Color Sustainer applies 3 profiles to the entire resolution, but each one on the left, middle, and right?


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, just a side question. I wanna get a second monitor and I'd like to try a catleap since it's approx the same price as the qnix. Do these overclock in the same way as the qnix? With CRU, or can you just use NVCP in the same way as the qnix?
They advertise it as New YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz (from green-sum)
Is this a good road to go down or are there other issues with catleaps ? I've tried going over the thread but it'salmost as big as this one.


----------



## JMattes

Is there a difference between QNIX 2710 Evolution II and just QNIX 2710?

I would think an older model.. but what are the differences and what would a used QNIX 2710 from a year ago go for?


----------



## sinnedone

When removing/ re installing drivers does anything special need to be done with cru or color sustainer?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> When removing/ re installing drivers does anything special need to be done with cru or color sustainer?


With CRU you gotta make sure you have a 60hz profile available or you're gonna have a bad time.


----------



## Adam182

Hey guys, theres another twist in the life of my new Xstar DP2710's

Not only did i order matte but recieve glossy panels but when I went to debezel today I was greeted with something far from the debezel guide in this here OP. It seems that what was once at the top of the panel on the back, is now at the bottom on the front and screwed into a piece of metal that is actually part of the panel metal itself. Also there is no metal bezel surrounding the panel anymore it just sits in place.

I was really looking forward to a 1440p eyefinity setup aswell, what a bummer.....











- Adam


----------



## JMattes

Adam that looks like a nightmare man. I have little understanding of what you were trying to do or achieve as I am still at the phase of trying to buy one..
However, I feel your pain and wish you luck!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey guys, just a side question. I wanna get a second monitor and I'd like to try a catleap since it's approx the same price as the qnix. Do these overclock in the same way as the qnix? With CRU, or can you just use NVCP in the same way as the qnix?
> They advertise it as New YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz (from green-sum)
> Is this a good road to go down or are there other issues with catleaps ? I've tried going over the thread but it'salmost as big as this one.


Unless you don't mind having a panel mismatch. Shouldn't be an issue, Overclocking process applies to both.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> @TomcatV Just wanted to say thanks man, you are so incredibly helpful on this forum. So cheers! I've tried all of the above, No result. So, I went ahead and restored a system image from about a month ago, and now it's at 110hz confirmed in UFO. I have no idea why, but I'm terrified to change/update anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind you, this is using CRU and the patcher...(as it was before i read the updated thread on the front page).. Pretty scared to try anything new
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey guys, just a side question. I wanna get a second monitor and I'd like to try a catleap since it's approx the same price as the qnix. Do these overclock in the same way as the qnix? With CRU, or can you just use NVCP in the same way as the qnix?
> They advertise it as New YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz (from green-sum)
> Is this a good road to go down or are there other issues with catleaps ? I've tried going over the thread but it'salmost as big as this one.
Click to expand...

No problem ... AND looks like you did exactly what my last suggestion would be or the dreaded complete WinOS reinstall. You have a driver conflict/corruption somewhere in your recent setup. Don't blame you for not wanting to fix what is not broken right now ... just remember to do another sys image before you eventually update your drivers again and have to go through the whole process









If you get a Cat2B it will look quite different regarding reflections and a bit more clearer/picture clarity vs QNIX Matte.
There is a guy (UNOE) who owns a QNIX and has ordered a Cat2B over in the Yamakasi thread *HERE
* it should be in this week and I've asked him to post some comparison pics








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> I've taken apart my glossy X-Star 3 times (frame was straight each time) and failed to fix the bleed in the top right where the panel is also loose (panel play). Guess it is time to attempt using tape.


Agreed, sometimes you can "fine tune" w/tape what appears to be a straight frame much like "shimming" fine tolerances with machinery. You might also try relocating/adding or re-sizing the foam compression blocks?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I use my own colorimeter as well, but apply the profiles using Color Sustainer.
> 
> @TomcatV: I'll go into more detail on the issue later, I guess.


I think I know what your going to say, but your the expert, I was just reaching for suggestions









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Is there a difference between QNIX 2710 Evolution II and just QNIX 2710?
> 
> I would think an older model.. but what are the differences and what would a used QNIX 2710 from a year ago go for?


Should be no difference ... it's all about the input connections / single vs multi / PLS vs AH-VA etc ...read more *HERE*








Used/Like New ones that OC 96-120Hz / some with minor pixel defects, some with none, have been going in the range of $230-$280.
*HERE* is a nice one to follow or buy ... this guy is pretty reputable! See his feedback








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Hey guys, theres another twist in the life of my new Xstar DP2710's
> 
> Not only did i order matte but recieve glossy panels but when I went to debezel today I was greeted with something far from the debezel guide in this here OP. It seems that what was once at the top of the panel on the back, is now at the bottom on the front and screwed into a piece of metal that is actually part of the panel metal itself. Also there is no metal bezel surrounding the panel anymore it just sits in place.
> 
> I was really looking forward to a 1440p eyefinity setup aswell, what a bummer.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


Wow this will be challenging, I'd seek the advise of the debezel guru's, looks like they have gone to a form of "uni-body" construction, yikes ... You may be writing a new guide for X-Star disassembly and debezel if it's possible anymore without considerable re-working? I wonder if we will see these changes with QNIX? ... nice pics though









*Hmmm NOW* you have me thinking, is this the new special order of A glossy panels I mentioned earlier, that were to come in the near future? ... They may be here already .... this is making more sense to me???


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Hey guys, theres another twist in the life of my new Xstar DP2710's
> 
> Not only did i order matte but recieve glossy panels but when I went to debezel today I was greeted with something far from the debezel guide in this here OP. It seems that what was once at the top of the panel on the back, is now at the bottom on the front and screwed into a piece of metal that is actually part of the panel metal itself. Also there is no metal bezel surrounding the panel anymore it just sits in place.
> 
> I was really looking forward to a 1440p eyefinity setup aswell, what a bummer.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


Hi Adam,
Where did you purchase your X-Star from?

Care to trade for my matte?


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *Hmmm NOW* you have me thinking, is this the new special order of A glossy panels I mentioned earlier, that were to come in the near future? ... They may be here already .... this is making more sense to me???


You've brought up an interesting point here TomcatV, i got onto the seller about my "glossy" issue earlier today and he said his latest batch that came in are all Glossy screens but to compensate that they are also all 100% Pixel Perfect so he sent them out anyway.

I would have maybe bought this as a fair deal had i not paid extra for perfect pixel anyway!

But im guessing your on the money with your assumption there!

I've observed the panel closer now and it seems its just metal prongs coming off the panel itself that the control board along the bottom is screwed to so i think theres a good chance the screws could be taken out and the board folded onto the back. Chances are a dremel would be required to remove the prongs though :/. That being said i would need to source/fabricate a metal bezel now as they are no longer situated within one - Adam
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hi Adam,
> Where did you purchase your X-Star from?
> 
> Care to trade for my matte?


Hi Kris, i got mine from dream-seller, I have two of these so i think having one glossy and one matte would be a strange combination haha







- Adam


----------



## Adam182

Curiosity got the better of me and i delved deeper into my monitor, I think its safe to say if these panels are the future of the DP2710 then it is the death of the ability to debezel







such sad times - Adam


----------



## Sempre

So the age of $600 true glossy Qnix panels are gone ?









Bummer about the bezel stuff though


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> So the age of $600 true glossy Qnix panels are gone ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bummer about the bezel stuff though


Good point, if your not bothered about the whole debezel shenaningans you cant go far wrong. Both my panels have 0 dead pixels and not even a hint of any backlight bleed whatsoever - Adam


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Good point, if your not bothered about the whole debezel shenaningans you cant go far wrong. Both my panels have 0 dead pixels and not even a hint of any backlight bleed whatsoever - Adam


Adam has the back of the panel been changed any? Is it still a thick metal plate that can be glued to for adding a VESA mount to it?


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Adam has the back of the panel been changed any? Is it still a thick metal plate that can be glued to for adding a VESA mount to it?


Yeah it looks the same apart from not having the extra part along the top at the back where the wires plug into as they now plug in at the bottom. Its pretty much a flush sheet of metal now - Adam


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Yeah it looks the same apart from not having the extra part along the top at the back where the wires plug into as they now plug in at the bottom. Its pretty much a flush sheet of metal now - Adam


Wow, that means they are now using the new 2014 panels. Hmm, I wonder if this changes my plans on offering repair work on these monitors. I hope not... lol

Hey Adam, do you mind taking some macro shots of all the stickers you see on your panel please? I'm curious on the exact model numbers so I can look up the info on panelook.com. Thanks

EDIT: I just realized you may have already put it back together, and if so, no worries mate so don't worry about it.


----------



## Dry Bonez

whats up everyone? so i received my 2nd monitor a few days ago and tried doing dual,to find out dual monitors are a pain in the ass. so i will be getting a 3rd in the near future,now in my research,i have learned in order to do this,i will need SLI cards...i have a GTX 580,so does anyone on here have 3x qnix monitors setup? can someone elaborate on the experience? im doing non stop youtube videos and reading on how this works,and found out the first cards to do 3x monitors on a single card were the 600 series. What does everyone suggest in terms of card to get, GTX 980 or 970?im gonna need 2x GTX 970 right?

Another point i wanna bring up is i was reading about the power bricks,i read they are very faulty and thus can cause the monitor to stop working properly.so can someone elaborate and guide me to the right path so that i,and along with many others as well,not go through this because i would hate for my monitor to fail because of a bad power brick

2nd to last question i have is,since i do a massive amount of emulation,would a 3x monitor setup work with emulators?i cant seem to find any on youtube,all i find is recent games.

Last request i have,can someone also elaborate on placing 3x monitors on a triple monitor stand,or do they have to sit down? i would love to get one of those bars that can hold 3 monitors(dont know the name of it)


----------



## incep

Hey guys. I got a problem with a big vertical black line after attempting the background bleed mod. Wasn't possible to do on the tempered glass version either, so I didn't manage to improve it.
Anyway, big vertical black line, 10px wide. Can't get it away. Checked all connectors inside the screen, everything was fine there. Is the panel itself broken?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incep*
> 
> Hey guys. I got a problem with a big vertical black line after attempting the background bleed mod. Wasn't possible to do on the tempered glass version either, so I didn't manage to improve it.
> Anyway, big vertical black line, 10px wide. Can't get it away. Checked all connectors inside the screen, everything was fine there. Is the panel itself broken?


i dont have an answer because idk anything about panels or monitors besides hooking them up and using them.but damn that really really sucks bro! but wait,this happened only when you attempted to fix the "backlightbleeding"? if so,dont scare me because my 2nd monitor has some serious BLB to be fixed but 2 things im scared of,one of them being what happened to you and the 2nd is dead pixels.sseeing stuff like this makes me not wanna even bother with the BLB


----------



## xliquidx

I recently received my qx2710. Put it straight to 120hz with no issues, currently running it at 96hz. I also did a color calibration with my spyder 3 using dispcal... Took about 3.5hrs but looks amazing!
I had quite pronounced BLB when I first got it like someone was pinching the screen at the bottom left and right. I've 99% fixed it by removing the metal frame and using a pair of pliers to bend the edges outwards so it sits loosely against the screen. I don't believe the 'tape mod' is necessary. Bending the frame so it doesnt sit so tight against the screen is the correct fix. I still have a little bit of what I believe is IPS glow at the bottom left and right corners as when I move my head across the screen it disappears. This is probably because of the stand not making it level to my eyesight. Coming from a TN panel I guess it's just something I'll have to get used to. BTW has anyone actually removed the metal frame completely and use something like foam door seal in its place?


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Hey Adam, do you mind taking some macro shots of all the stickers you see on your panel please? I'm curious on the exact model numbers so I can look up the info on panelook.com. Thanks
> 
> EDIT: I just realized you may have already put it back together, and if so, no worries mate so don't worry about it.


I did actually get a macro shot but the angle was awkward and it came out blurry, i did however jot down the code and this is the panel...

http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL07-M01_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_overview_21060.html

- Adam


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xliquidx*
> 
> I recently received my qx2710. Put it straight to 120hz with no issues, currently running it at 96hz. I also did a color calibration with my spyder 3 using dispcal... Took about 3.5hrs but looks amazing!
> I had quite pronounced BLB when I first got it like someone was pinching the screen at the bottom left and right. I've 99% fixed it by removing the metal frame and using a pair of pliers to bend the edges outwards so it sits loosely against the screen. I don't believe the 'tape mod' is necessary. Bending the frame so it doesnt sit so tight against the screen is the correct fix. I still have a little bit of what I believe is IPS glow at the bottom left and right corners as when I move my head across the screen it disappears. This is probably because of the stand not making it level to my eyesight. Coming from a TN panel I guess it's just something I'll have to get used to.


bro,can you please guide me on the color calibration? i dont get it,does it make the monitor look BETTER than what it already does?what i did was just put brightness up and then change some stuff in my nvidia control panel...i have a 2nd qnix that has really serious BLB and im scared to fix it


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> I bought mine from dream-seller, I have two of these so i think having one glossy and one matte would be a strange combination haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


This one?

Can you test for LED PWM Dimming with this test? Make sure to read the instructions and lower the brightness since some monitors are only PWM Free down to a certain brightness. Read about the side effects caused by PWM here.


----------



## xliquidx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> bro,can you please guide me on the color calibration? i dont get it,does it make the monitor look BETTER than what it already does?what i did was just put brightness up and then change some stuff in my nvidia control panel...i have a 2nd qnix that has really serious BLB and im scared to fix it


Without a colorimeter like a spyder3/spyder4 or something you can't calibrate it properly as every monitor is different. If you are running the monitor at 60hz there shouldn't be THAT much improvement but when you start overclocking it's best to calibrate the monitor. If you don't have a tool to do so, use one of the ICC colour profiles in the OP. I'm going to try removing the metal frame all together and see what outcome I get from it as well but if you'd like to fix BLB, remove the metal frame and bend the frame outwards so it is not sitting so hard against the screen. The reason you're getting BLB is because the frame is pinching certain areas of the screen because its sitting too hard against it.


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> This one?
> 
> Can you test for LED PWM Dimming with this test? Make sure to read the instructions and lower the brightness since some monitors are only PWM Free down to a certain brightness. Read about the side effects caused by PWM here.


That seller, but mine is the X-Star not the Qnix.

From what i gathered from what PWM is, I'm guessing my panel has it as that single line turns into around 6 closely spaced lines (around 10mm width in total) with a little bit of blur and it slightly fades off - Adam

Heres an overview spec of my panel and the older version...



- Adam


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> whats up everyone? so i received my 2nd monitor a few days ago and tried doing dual,to find out dual monitors are a pain in the ass. so i will be getting a 3rd in the near future,now in my research,i have learned in order to do this,i will need SLI cards...i have a GTX 580,so does anyone on here have 3x qnix monitors setup? can someone elaborate on the experience? im doing non stop youtube videos and reading on how this works,and found out the first cards to do 3x monitors on a single card were the 600 series. What does everyone suggest in terms of card to get, GTX 980 or 970?im gonna need 2x GTX 970 right?
> 
> Another point i wanna bring up is i was reading about the power bricks,i read they are very faulty and thus can cause the monitor to stop working properly.so can someone elaborate and guide me to the right path so that i,and along with many others as well,not go through this because i would hate for my monitor to fail because of a bad power brick
> 
> 2nd to last question i have is,since i do a massive amount of emulation,would a 3x monitor setup work with emulators?i cant seem to find any on youtube,all i find is recent games.
> 
> Last request i have,can someone also elaborate on placing 3x monitors on a triple monitor stand,or do they have to sit down? i would love to get one of those bars that can hold 3 monitors(dont know the name of it)


You can run three on a 780Ti, so I would think either the 980 or 970 would work, but since I don't have either, I can't tell you how good they would be running three monitors. I'm currently running two 780Ti's and most games run fine using Nvidia Surround. I would think two 970's would have similar or better results.

Power Bricks: If it gets hot, replace it. None of my three get hot to the touch. If you search for power brick in this forum, you'll see what others have used. Most are inexpensive ones from ebay.

Emulation: No idea, but I would think worst case, setup for 3 independent monitors instead of surround and you shouldn't have any issues.

Stand: I use a triple stand for mine that I got from WSGF.org. Others use individual stands for each monitor. All depends on what you want to do, and how much you want to spend.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xliquidx*
> 
> I also did a color calibration with my spyder 3 using dispcal... Took about 3.5hrs but looks amazing!


The Spyder 3 is not meant to be used with LED back-lit monitors (reduces accuracy), is inaccurate to begin with and something is seriously wrong if calibration takes 3.5 hours. Your monitors color presets are likely more accurate, using another members ICC profile made with an accurate colorimeter (x-rite colormunkie or i1 display pro since spyders are less accurate and have other issues) is a better idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> That seller, but mine is the X-Star not the Qnix. From what i gathered from what PWM is, I'm guessing my panel has it as that single line turns into around 6 closely spaced lines (around 10mm width in total) with a little bit of blur and it slightly fades off.


Thanks for clarifying. It seems your monitor uses PWM which is a shame. Both of the older glossy Qnix/X-Star's I tested were PWM free.

I wonder if it would be easy to replace the PWM controller....Yasamoka knows how...


----------



## xliquidx

Also I guess removing the metal frame all together may cause the screen to warp since there is nothing stopping it from flexing, however I'm still eager to try it. Can use something l
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Spyder 3 is not meant to be used with LED back-lit monitors (reduces accuracy), is inaccurate to begin with and something is seriously wrong if calibration takes 3.5 hours. Your monitors color presets are likely more accurate, using another members ICC profile made with an accurate colorimeter (x-rite colormunkie or i1 display pro since spyders are less accurate and have other issues) is a better idea.


Calibration was done with dispcal using large lut profile which takes 3-3.5hrs. This is normal. I was not aware of any issues using the spyder3, my settings appear very similar to other color profiles when I compared them. Thanks though I'll try some of the other profiles


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> I did actually get a macro shot but the angle was awkward and it came out blurry, i did however jot down the code and this is the panel...
> 
> http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL07-M01_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_overview_21060.html
> 
> - Adam


Thanks Adam, your right Sir that does look quite a bit different from the DL02's. Not sure what version is the most common in the Qnix/Xstar monitors. Does your LVDS connectors look the same as the pics in the OP? Wondering if it still uses the same driver board and or different cables.


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Thanks Adam, your right Sir that does look quite a bit different from the DL02's. Not sure what version is the most common in the Qnix/Xstar monitors. Does your LVDS connectors look the same as the pics in the OP? Wondering if it still uses the same driver board and or different cables.


These photos might get you the answers your after, I'm not sure which connectors you mean












- Adam


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

The LVDS cables are the ones that feed the video data to the panel. There are usually two sets for a two channel panel such as yours. And yes you have the two cables going up to the panel, however I can not tell if they are the standard connectors or not.

We will just have to assume it is the same exact PCB and cables as the Qnix. I wonder if this means the newer Qnix monitors are getting some revisions such as this?


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

hey guys anyone running the new ati 14.9 drivers? it seems that when overclocking my monitor even with the newest patcher and cru using mantle/direct x in bf4 or other games at say 96 or 110 hz the screen gets this downward scrolling issue, but when i put it at 60hz its fine. bf4 stopped doing it on direct x randomly at 96 but now I know what is causing these issues. on all the other drivers I have been able to run 96 and 110 with no problems on any game.

any ideas?


----------



## AznCQ

Can someone help me figure this out. I have 2 Qnix QX2710 which I have used at 120HZ for a year and a half now with my SLI GTX 760s.

I decided to upgrade and buy 2 GTX 970s in SLI. When I hooked them up and tried 120HZ I started to observe green pixels and sometimes lines on both my monitors. I tried the same settings in CRU as my 760s. Any idea what happened? Are my 970s less capable in terms of monitor overclocking compared to my 760s?

It would suck to have to lower my HZ after upgrading my GPUS.

and yes I've used the patcher

Thanks.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Can someone help me figure this out. I have 2 Qnix QX2710 which I have used at 120HZ for a year and a half now with my SLI GTX 760s.
> 
> I decided to upgrade and buy 2 GTX 970s in SLI. When I hooked them up and tried 120HZ I started to observe green pixels and sometimes lines on both my monitors. I tried the same settings in CRU as my 760s. Any idea what happened? Are my 970s less capable in terms of monitor overclocking compared to my 760s?
> 
> It would suck to have to lower my HZ after upgrading my GPUS.
> 
> and yes I've used the patcher
> 
> Thanks.


What timings are you using? I don't think the 9 series needs to be patched at all. I'm not patched and running just fine.
Did you do a clean install prior to installing your new cards?


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> What timings are you using? I don't think the 9 series needs to be patched at all. I'm not patched and running just fine.
> Did you do a clean install prior to installing your new cards?


Yeah I did clean install of drivers before installing my new cards.

Here are my settings which worked great for my 760s.


----------



## hutt132

Is it possible to have a .icc color profile that changes colors in certain spots instead of the whole screen?


----------



## SInC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Thanks for clarifying. It seems your monitor uses PWM which is a shame. Both of the older glossy Qnix/X-Star's I tested were PWM free.
> 
> I wonder if it would be easy to replace the PWM controller....Yasamoka knows how...


So it sounds like there's no certain way to buy a PWM-free QNIX/X-Star? Is there any more information about this?


----------



## kapnobatai

Hello guys. I just received my Xstar DP2710. Well, I couldn t discover any dead pixels but the problem is there s a loooot of backlight bleeding, plus a nasty white line on the left lower corner.

Will I be able to correct this bleeding (I ve read some methods, tape and so on) or should I take my chances and return the item for being replaced? Shipping was very fast, but I don't know if I would not have to pay the custom taxes again when the replacement monitor will arrive.

Please, any feedback is very welcome, many thanks.


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> Hello guys. I just received my Xstar DP2710. Well, I couldn t discover any dead pixels but the problem is there s a loooot of backlight bleeding, plus a nasty white line on the left lower corner.
> 
> Will I be able to correct this bleeding (I ve read some methods, tape and so on) or should I take my chances and return the item for being replaced? Shipping was very fast, but I don't know if I would not have to pay the custom taxes again when the replacement monitor will arrive.
> 
> Please, any feedback is very welcome, many thanks.


Hey man, firstly you are correct that is backlight bleed although I'm not sure what that line is, maybe someone else can give you some information on what that might be. Chances are you would only be able to return it on the grounds of the white line and not the BLB itself.

If you had to pay customs taxes the first time around then yes you will have to pay them again unfortunatly







where are you based?

Finally may i ask which seller you bought the monitor from? if its one of the DL02 panels you should be able to open it up and alleviate some of that backlight bleed - Adam


----------



## kapnobatai

Thanks for the reply. I'm from Romania and defo I ll get taxed again. I bought it from dreamseller, pixel perfect version, very fast shipping, well packed and very nice communication so far, all nice and dandy. but really, I call that serious backlight bleeding. My old LG IPS234V-PN had also some BLB but it s not comparable.

The weird line is noticeable when viewing dark content at any other angle than 90 degrees, it' s not that disturbing but noticeable.

The panel behind the bezel looks also a little curved inside in the middle, but I ll have to disassembly it first in order to check this on a flat surface.

Overall, it's a very nice monitor, but that BLB is taking away all the fun, I d like to keep it but only if I have some chances of fixing it.

If you know of any other BLB fix guide tother than David Thompson's youtube playlist please share, many thanks.


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> The panel behind the bezel looks also a little curved inside in the middle, but I ll have to disassembly it first in order to check this on a flat surface.


Let us know what the panel looks like when you take it apart, i received mine last week and its completely different to how they used to be. That curvature is likely to be the bezel itself rather than the panel actually bending. If it is one of the newer panels I'm not sure how you would go about fixing the BLB on it - Adam


----------



## CroSsFiRe2009

Since both x star and qnix seem to be glossy for their more common models now (pls, non multi) would paying a premium and getting a matte screen increase the chances of getting the older pwm free screen?

At $415CAD with another $60 in customs is it even still a deal for a Qnix evo II SE pls?


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, really need your input on something. I'm getting a new screen, and it's either gonna be a new glossy qnix I that I'm seeing on ebay or a catleap 2b "Oc extreme" or whatever. I've gad a glossy qnix before and I loved it, but people seem to be skeptical of the new ones out there (PWM... ?) So, if the price is about 50$ difference, is the catleap a better option? Are they all natively glossy unless stated otherwise? Is that buzz issue still a thing? I need to order pretty quickly here so any input would be MUCH appreciated!


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey guys, really need your input on something. I'm getting a new screen, and it's either gonna be a new glossy qnix I that I'm seeing on ebay or a catleap 2b "Oc extreme" or whatever. I've gad a glossy qnix before and I loved it, but people seem to be skeptical of the new ones out there (PWM... ?) So, if the price is about 50$ difference, is the catleap a better option? Are they all natively glossy unless stated otherwise? Is that buzz issue still a thing? I need to order pretty quickly here so any input would be MUCH appreciated!


Is PWM even an issue? all i know is that my new X-star looks absolutely fantastic and games run on it smooth as warm butter - Adam


----------



## xliquidx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> Hello guys. I just received my Xstar DP2710. Well, I couldn t discover any dead pixels but the problem is there s a loooot of backlight bleeding, plus a nasty white line on the left lower corner.
> 
> Will I be able to correct this bleeding (I ve read some methods, tape and so on) or should I take my chances and return the item for being replaced? Shipping was very fast, but I don't know if I would not have to pay the custom taxes again when the replacement monitor will arrive.
> 
> Please, any feedback is very welcome, many thanks.


The bleed on that monitor doesn't look that bad compared to some. Your first image looks like it has barely any bleed at all. If you're coming from a TN panel it will take a while to get used to. TN panels produce very deep blacks and dont usually have any bleed/glow compared to IPS/PLS panels. It will take some time to adjust to.

Bleed will be VERY noticable almost yellow or orange in one or multiple spots, more solid colour than a glow. I actually completely removed the metal frame that sits around the monitor and used tape to seal the edges of the monitor. This results in 0 BLB as there is no longer anything pinching against the monitor. I still have IPS glow though as I can see it from certain angles and I'm fairly certain the plastic frame that sits over the monitor needs to have its edges sanded down smooth as they are quite sharp and are almost pinching against the monitor. Alternatively, remove the metal frame that sits around the monitor and bend the edges outward (or try and make it flat to start with) so it doesnt sit so tight against the monitor. This is the real problem, not tape. The only reason tape might help some people is because its evening the pressure out on the screen that is caused by this metal frame.

You sure some of it isnt glow? Does it disappear when you move your head around the screen or is it always visible? Does it reduce when you move further back from the screen? I also noticed that plastic frame that covers the screen appears bowed so I'm going to try and heat it up a bit and bend it back flat. I'll get pictures when I take the screen out again.

For reference, the following images are normal, its called ips/pls glow and its hard to capture properly with a camera without making it look worse than it is. Notice when you move back or change the angle you look at the monitor it disappears.




The following I would say is back light bleed caused by too much pressure on the panel. This is basically how mine looked out of the box


----------



## dwaynedibley

Have finally taken the plunge and bought this - http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MO-167-SA&groupid=17&catid=1120
Can't go without 1440p for much longer and this looks a good deal from a UK based vendor selling something with a 'real' warranty...
Hopefully I haven't gaffed this time !


----------



## MapRef41N93W

I notice that there is now an AH-VA variant of the DP2710 being sold by Dreamseller. He is advertising it as supporting 120Hz refresh rate with an OC like the PLS variant. I was finally planning on picking up a second PLS X-Star, but I think the AH-VA would be a better choice if it can OC. Has anyone purchased one yet or are there any reviews of it? Something tells me it would be a whole heck of a lot more expensive if it can do 120Hz without frame skipping as iirc the Catleap is selling for 500-600$ as an AH-VA 120Hz monitor.


----------



## adamCCC

just got my X-STAR DP2710 PLS Panel, no dead pixels thankfully, wont be able to test for backlight bleed til 2moro. are all the panels glossy now? what happened to paying a premium for glossy?


----------



## Ovrclck

Here's the link to the AH-VA variant. I too would like to know if it can overclock.

http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=331180242313

Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xliquidx*
> 
> Calibration was done with dispcal using large lut profile which takes 3-3.5hrs. This is normal. I was not aware of any issues using the spyder3, my settings appear very similar to other color profiles when I compared them. Thanks though I'll try some of the other profiles


Long calibrations are pointless and will further degrade color quality, reduce the contrast and increase banding, especially since the Spyder 3 is not accurate to begin with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SInC*
> 
> So it sounds like there's no certain way to buy a PWM-free QNIX/X-Star? Is there any more information about this?


There never has been, just like there is no way to ensure one gets a glow free panel which can be used in these. I have a glow+PWM free Qnix which uses a Samsung LTM270DL06 panel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Is PWM even an issue? all i know is that my new X-star looks absolutely fantastic and games run on it smooth as warm butter - Adam


Yes

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects

All BenQ monitors are PWM/Flicker Free, including their cheapest TN panels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I notice that there is now an AH-VA variant of the DP2710 being sold by Dreamseller. He is advertising it as supporting 120Hz refresh rate with an OC like the PLS variant.


It's an X-Star version of the Qnix multi wich has been out for months. Both brands are made by the same company and use the same components.


----------



## SInC

Thanks for the info MenacingTuba. I might just have to roll the dice...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Here's the link to the AH-VA variant. I too would like to know if it can overclock.
> 
> http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=331180242313
> 
> Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


All of the multi-input or "True10" models are known to not overclock or to skip frames when overclocked.
The PLS Qnix/X-Star models are also known to have better image quality and lower input lag than the AHVA multi-input models.


----------



## xliquidx

Those of you who are fixing panel play by using tape on the inside of the housing don't put too much or it will make BLB worse when it presses against the frame


----------



## kapnobatai

many thanks for the advice, I think I m going to keep it and try to proper flatten the frame. I also bought this, after watching a youtube clip with a Xstar or Qnix installed on it. I ll let you know how it stands

http://www.ebay.de/itm/EIZO-LCD-TFT-bis-7kg-Standfus-Monitorfus-Monitorstander-VESA-100-bis-24/161437591762?


----------



## caenlen

can we use lightboost hack on these overclocked monitors? http://www.blurbusters.com/zero-motion-blur/lightboost/


----------



## ebhsimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> can we use lightboost hack on these overclocked monitors? http://www.blurbusters.com/zero-motion-blur/lightboost/


http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/120hz-monitors/

Don't think so, but give it a shot and report back if you're keen. I haven't seen anybody try it before.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> can we use lightboost hack on these overclocked monitors? http://www.blurbusters.com/zero-motion-blur/lightboost/


No. The monitor needs to have a strobing backlight and has to support Nvidia LightBoost. Even if you fitted these monitors with a strobing backlight, they might not be fast enough to refresh in (frametime - strobe length) before the backlight comes in and strobes at high enough refresh rates.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Can someone help me figure this out. I have 2 Qnix QX2710 which I have used at 120HZ for a year and a half now with my SLI GTX 760s.
> 
> I decided to upgrade and buy 2 GTX 970s in SLI. When I hooked them up and tried 120HZ I started to observe green pixels and sometimes lines on both my monitors. I tried the same settings in CRU as my 760s. Any idea what happened? Are my 970s less capable in terms of monitor overclocking compared to my 760s?
> 
> It would suck to have to lower my HZ after upgrading my GPUS.
> 
> and yes I've used the patcher
> 
> Thanks.


Does anyone have any info on this?

970s seem to not overclock monitors as well as my 760s.

970s start artifacting at 100 hz whereas my 760s ran 120hz for over a year with no issues.

I wonder if its a driver issue, unfortunately i can't install older drivers on my 970s to test. Has anyone experienced the same problem?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xliquidx*
> 
> The bleed on that monitor doesn't look that bad compared to some. Your first image looks like it has barely any bleed at all. If you're coming from a TN panel it will take a while to get used to. TN panels produce very deep blacks and dont usually have any bleed/glow compared to IPS/PLS panels. It will take some time to adjust to.
> 
> Bleed will be VERY noticable almost yellow or orange in one or multiple spots, more solid colour than a glow. I actually completely removed the metal frame that sits around the monitor and used tape to seal the edges of the monitor. This results in 0 BLB as there is no longer anything pinching against the monitor. I still have IPS glow though as I can see it from certain angles and I'm fairly certain the plastic frame that sits over the monitor needs to have its edges sanded down smooth as they are quite sharp and are almost pinching against the monitor. Alternatively, remove the metal frame that sits around the monitor and bend the edges outward (or try and make it flat to start with) so it doesnt sit so tight against the monitor. This is the real problem, not tape. The only reason tape might help some people is because its evening the pressure out on the screen that is caused by this metal frame.
> 
> You sure some of it isnt glow? Does it disappear when you move your head around the screen or is it always visible? Does it reduce when you move further back from the screen? I also noticed that plastic frame that covers the screen appears bowed so I'm going to try and heat it up a bit and bend it back flat. I'll get pictures when I take the screen out again.
> 
> For reference, the following images are normal, its called ips/pls glow and its hard to capture properly with a camera without making it look worse than it is. Notice when you move back or change the angle you look at the monitor it disappears.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following I would say is back light bleed caused by too much pressure on the panel. This is basically how mine looked out of the box
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xliquidx*
> 
> Those of you who are fixing panel play by using tape on the inside of the housing don't put too much or it will make BLB worse when it presses against the frame
Click to expand...

This is a very accurate/descriptive and detailed post +R









Liquid also explains the advantages of addressing a bent frame 1st ... then if need be or fine tune with tape and precautions for such








I also agree with the analysis of the majority being IPS Glow but I do see some BLB lower left 1/3rd and 2 maybe 3 minor spots on the top, not always spot on when diagnosing from pics








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> I notice that there is now an AH-VA variant of the DP2710 being sold by Dreamseller. He is advertising it as supporting 120Hz refresh rate with an OC like the PLS variant. I was finally planning on picking up a second PLS X-Star, but I think the AH-VA would be a better choice if it can OC. Has anyone purchased one yet or are there any reviews of it? Something tells me it would be a whole heck of a lot more expensive if it can do 120Hz without frame skipping as iirc the Catleap is selling for 500-600$ as an AH-VA 120Hz monitor.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Here's the link to the AH-VA variant. I too would like to know if it can overclock.
> 
> http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=331180242313
> 
> Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)
Click to expand...

THE TRUE10 MULTI-INPUT variants will not OC to 96Hz without dropping frames, much less 120Hz ...
Dream-seller is false advertising !!!








See this *LINK* once again for Proof








Some HDMI variants have been verified to clock to 85Hz but it's rare ...
If you buy one of these "Turds" and verify it OC's to 75Hz-85Hz please post back (w/testufo pics) and I'll include it in my link









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Does anyone have any info on this?
> 
> 970s seem to not overclock monitors as well as my 760s.
> 
> 970s start artifacting at 100 hz whereas my 760s ran 120hz for over a year with no issues.
> 
> I wonder if its a driver issue, unfortunately i can't install older drivers on my 970s to test. Has anyone experienced the same problem?


It is strange how some GPU's seem to OC the QNIX better than others ... BUT in your case I believe you may have a driver conflict/corruption somewhere much like "latprod". It is not exactly related but follow his odyssey and solution *HERE* ... I'd do a complete Fresh/Clean reinstall starting w/Nvidia drivers, then follow Lawsons guide *HERE* eliminating CRU ...









Hey Adam where are those OC findings with the new Glossy's








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Long calibrations are pointless and will further degrade color quality, reduce the contrast and increase banding, especially since the Spyder 3 is not accurate to begin with.
> There never has been, just like there is no way to ensure one gets a glow free panel which can be used in these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have a glow+PWM free Qnix which uses a Samsung LTM270DL06 panel.
> Yes
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects
> 
> All BenQ monitors are PWM/Flicker Free, including their cheapest TN panels.
> It's an X-Star version of the Qnix multi wich has been out for months. Both brands are made by the same company and use the same components
> 
> 
> .


As usual another very informative post ... +R


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Does anyone have any info on this?
> 
> 970s seem to not overclock monitors as well as my 760s.
> 
> 970s start artifacting at 100 hz whereas my 760s ran 120hz for over a year with no issues.
> 
> I wonder if its a driver issue, unfortunately i can't install older drivers on my 970s to test. Has anyone experienced the same problem?


I would say just run 96hz until the drivers mature for the new Maxwell cards. Plus I would go into the 970 or 980 clubs and ask in those threads as well. MUCH more likely to get an answer from those threads, since this is clearly a video card issue...


----------



## Sir Joseph Dirt

I have a 970 and I can run my QNIX at 120hz with no issues. I haven't used the pixel clock patcher and all the pixel timings are auto.

I had 2x 670's in SLI that would give me green pixel streak issues at 120hz so I kept the monitor at 110hz with no problems.

I plan on getting another 970 when they're back in stock so we'll see what happens then.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Does anyone have any info on this?
> 
> 970s seem to not overclock monitors as well as my 760s.
> 
> 970s start artifacting at 100 hz whereas my 760s ran 120hz for over a year with no issues.
> 
> I wonder if its a driver issue, unfortunately i can't install older drivers on my 970s to test. Has anyone experienced the same problem?


Definitely not the case for me. Switched to a 970 and suddenly I could run 120Hz with the default timings.


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hey Adam where are those OC findings with the new Glossy's


What do you want me to try







I'm at 96hz at the moment havnt tried anything else yet - Adam


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Definitely not the case for me. Switched to a 970 and suddenly I could run 120Hz with the default timings.


Then its possible I got a less than optimal card in regards to overclocking hz. Going to switch my displays over to my 2nd 970 and see how it fares.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> What do you want me to try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at 96hz at the moment havnt tried anything else yet - Adam


110Hz


----------



## ninecats

is there a guide to tightening timings? i can get to 108Hz with automatic timings before i get purple/green garbage on screen. i couldn't find any info on how to manually tighten the timings.

edit: my current GFX card is an EVGA 970 Superclock


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Then its possible I got a less than optimal card in regards to overclocking hz. Going to switch my displays over to my 2nd 970 and see how it fares.


Please let us know if that solves it or not.


----------



## Antelope

Hi All,

Just joined the club myself as my monitor arrived yesterday. I tried the ROG Swift PG278q but I could just not get over how bad the picture quality was and the insanely strong anti-glare they put on it. I also had a dead pixel. Returned it and decided to try one of these and save the extra $500.

The thing is perfect! I bought it on Amazon, got here insanely fast... No dead pixels (I did pay for pixel perfect though). Some noticeable backlight bleed, but it doesn't bother me too much. I may attempt to fix it if that is still possible, but I will live.

Best part is I OCd to 120Hz on the default setup via the guide and it works great. I've checked via the blur test with my camera and no frame drops... and in a game turning Vsync on (it locks to 120fps).

I DO have a small issue though I was hoping someone could help me with...

When I try to run the game FFXIV: A Realm Reborn... no matter what I do it seems to run at 60Hz. I imagine this is a problem with some fullscreen games? Does anyone know how to fix this?

i.e. I set monitor to 120Hz, test it via camera and see all squares and no frame drops. I can load up something like League of Legends, turn on Vsync, and it locks to 120fps... BUT if i turn on FFXIV it will be at 60Hz (vsync locks to 60 and it is noticeably less smooth).

Does anyone know a solution for this? Are there some applications that it defauls the refresh down?

edit:

Scratch that, I figured it out. Had to set it manually to 2560x1440(120Hz) in the game itself... whoops. It was at 2560x1440(60Hz). My bad.

Thanks


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Please let us know if that solves it or not.


The results weren't good, my 2nd 970 exhibits the same behavior, none of my monitors can reach 120hz stable anymore with either of my 970s. This is on fresh install of drivers.

This kind of sucks, going to have to just deal with 110hz and 94hz on my monitors. For some reason my 760 was just able to output both monitors at 120hz perfectly no artifacts. I just don't know what happened, if the nvidia drivers regressed or the 970s got worse in that regard, or maybe its just my Gigabyte cards.


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This is a very accurate/descriptive and detailed post +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Liquid also explains the advantages of addressing a bent frame 1st ... then if need be or fine tune with tape and precautions for such
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also agree with the analysis of the majority being IPS Glow but I do see some BLB lower left 1/3rd and 2 maybe 3 minor spots on the top, not always spot on when diagnosing from pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE TRUE10 MULTI-INPUT variants will not OC to 96Hz without dropping frames, much less 120Hz ...
> Dream-seller is false advertising !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See this *LINK* once again for Proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some HDMI variants have been verified to clock to 85Hz but it's rare ...
> If you buy one of these "Turds" and verify it OC's to 75Hz-85Hz please post back (w/testufo pics) and I'll include it in my link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is strange how some GPU's seem to OC the QNIX better than others ... BUT in your case I believe you may have a driver conflict/corruption somewhere much like "latprod". It is not exactly related but follow his odyssey and solution *HERE* ... I'd do a complete Fresh/Clean reinstall starting w/Nvidia drivers, then follow Lawsons guide *HERE* eliminating CRU ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Adam where are those OC findings with the new Glossy's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As usual another very informative post ... +R


Funny enough I posted those tightened timings in this thread over a year ago. Thanks for the help, but it didn't work







- also reduced the pixel clock as much as I could, no improvement

I did a complete fresh clean re-install and didn't use CRU at all this time, my 1 monitor fails to go over 110hz successfully without green artifacting and my 2nd monitor can't go above 94hz without green artifacting. Both of these monitors ran at 120hz with my GTX 760 with no problems. Not sure the reason why but o well


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> For some reason my 760 was just able to output both monitors at 120hz perfectly no artifacts. I just don't know what happened, if the nvidia drivers regressed or the 970s got worse in that regard, or maybe its just my Gigabyte cards.


Well, think of it this way. The drivers have NOT regressed, they are just immature for your new card. They will still work just fine for your old card, but the support for your new card is not mature at all. So you may have to wait until they become mature for your card now.

However, I have a hard time believing it has anything to do with your video cards. That would mean your 970 does not support all the official 120hz monitors being sold? I somehow doubt that. You might want to buy another DVI-D cable, the best one you can find and give that a try.


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> 110Hz


Hey guys heres the result for 110hz, I'm totally new to this testing procedure but hopefully everything is ok...



- Adam


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Hey guys heres the result for 110hz, I'm totally new to this testing procedure but hopefully everything is ok...
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


Looks perfect!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> What do you want me to try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at 96hz at the moment havnt tried anything else yet - Adam
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Hey guys heres the result for 110hz, I'm totally new to this testing procedure but hopefully everything is ok...
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam
Click to expand...

Very good!, now we're fillin' in the blanks







... I assume 110Hz is with standard timings ... what happened at 120Hz? Black screen or the Green artifacts? If it's the green artifacts, you could try custom timings but may run into the ram downclocking syndrome ... see Lawson's guide *HERE* ... This is only for testing, checking OC limits. I think your choice of just sticking w/96Hz is fine! I'm just trying to get a feel for what these new "glossy" panels potential will be?

It would also be helpful if you ran MenacingTuba's PWM Dimming test just to confirm if this will be an issue with these new panels or not? see *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninecats*
> 
> is there a guide to tightening timings? i can get to 108Hz with automatic timings before i get purple/green garbage on screen. i couldn't find any info on how to manually tighten the timings.
> 
> edit: my current GFX card is an EVGA 970 Superclock


Yes ... see my link above









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antelope*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Just joined the club myself as my monitor arrived yesterday. I tried the ROG Swift PG278q but I could just not get over how bad the picture quality was and the insanely strong anti-glare they put on it. I also had a dead pixel. Returned it and decided to try one of these and save the extra $500.
> 
> The thing is perfect! I bought it on Amazon, got here insanely fast... No dead pixels (I did pay for pixel perfect though). Some noticeable backlight bleed, but it doesn't bother me too much. I may attempt to fix it if that is still possible, but I will live.
> 
> Best part is I OCd to 120Hz on the default setup via the guide and it works great. I've checked via the blur test with my camera and no frame drops... and in a game turning Vsync on (it locks to 120fps).
> 
> I DO have a small issue though I was hoping someone could help me with...
> 
> When I try to run the game FFXIV: A Realm Reborn... no matter what I do it seems to run at 60Hz. I imagine this is a problem with some fullscreen games? Does anyone know how to fix this?
> 
> i.e. I set monitor to 120Hz, test it via camera and see all squares and no frame drops. I can load up something like League of Legends, turn on Vsync, and it locks to 120fps... BUT if i turn on FFXIV it will be at 60Hz (vsync locks to 60 and it is noticeably less smooth).
> 
> Does anyone know a solution for this? Are there some applications that it defauls the refresh down?
> 
> edit:
> 
> Scratch that, I figured it out. Had to set it manually to 2560x1440(120Hz) in the game itself... whoops. It was at 2560x1440(60Hz). My bad.
> 
> Thanks


Welcome ... very nice! ... Can you specify which Korean supplier through Amazon? And what GPU and OC format did you use? Maybe fill in your system specs ... see my sig









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznCQ*
> 
> Funny enough I posted those tightened timings in this thread over a year ago. Thanks for the help, but it didn't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - also reduced the pixel clock as much as I could, no improvement
> 
> I did a complete fresh clean re-install and didn't use CRU at all this time, my 1 monitor fails to go over 110hz successfully without green artifacting and my 2nd monitor can't go above 94hz without green artifacting. Both of these monitors ran at 120hz with my GTX 760 with no problems. Not sure the reason why but o well


Bummer







... But, as in latprod's case, my final suggestion would be a fresh OS install, not saying it will work, but he used a clean system image restore and got his old OC's back ... maybe try new cables, switching ports as Skorpion said but that is a crapshoot IMO ...

Skorpion did some really helpful posting over in the Catleap thread (+R) distinguishing what a true OC PCB "2B" looks like and how a guy got recently burned with what is probably? the 3B version ... interesting reading, check it out *HERE* ... producing this very informative post *HERE* ...









@latprod ... looking forward to your side by side comparison of the glossy Catleap 2B vs your matte QNIX


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @latprod ... looking forward to your side by side comparison of the glossy Catleap 2B vs your matte QNIX


Haha yeah that's gonna be a bit of a mismatch, but I'm not planning a triple setup anyway. Ordered it yesterday so pretty excited!
About AznCQ's issue, I tried everything, including a windows repair, safe mode driver removal, driver rollback, etc etc etc. NOTHING worked, until I restored an older image, and everything was cool.
It's a real bummer having to reinstall windows and all that, but if you really want what you had, I don't see any other way.
I'd create a test partition and install fresh there, and run it as a dual boot. Just install whatever is necessary (drivers, win updates etc) and see if you can get to the where you wanna be then.
If you succeed, then you will know there is some kind of driver corruption or similar issue happening on your current system


----------



## JMattes

@latprod where did you grab the Catleap from?


----------



## latprod

From green-sum on ebay, was about 380 $ with shippin (to norway) Maybe 50$ more than the qnix.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> Hey guys heres the result for 110hz, I'm totally new to this testing procedure but hopefully everything is ok...
> 
> 
> 
> - Adam


Thank you sir!


----------



## Antelope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Welcome ... very nice! ... Can you specify which Korean supplier through Amazon? And what GPU and OC format did you use? Maybe fill in your system specs ... see my sig


Hi, I have filled out my system specs, it should be in my signature now.

As far as the monitor, here is the rundown:

*Item Purchased:* Qnix QX2710 Evolution II Matte Perfect Pixel
*Place of purchase:* Amazon
*Vendor:* MNW Global
*Arrival:* 2-3days
*Dead Pixels:* 0
*Backlight Bleed:* Moderate
*Colors at default:* Great
*Stand:* Sucks
*GPU driving:* GTX 970 SLI
*OC:* 120Hz stable
*Framedrops:* 0, tested via 1/5 shutter speed multiple images
*Gamma shift @ OC:* Strong, fixed with Color Sustainer profile.
*DVI Cable:* Did not use stock

I used these timings/parameters from the guru3D thread and it works better than the default manual (120Hz with LCD-reduced selected):
http://i.imgur.com/2Cq4lxS.png

I used this color profile @ 120Hz via Color Sustainer (the Native dipscal 120):
http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23100

Here is a quick picture of the stability... (I have accurate ones at 1/5 shutter, but not uploaded, this was taken with iPhone):


http://imgur.com/AqvNHrL


I also changed out the provided D-DVI cable with one that is about a foot shorter and slightly thicker. It came with my old LG 120Hz TN panel.

Only thing left to do is run it for a a bit and make sure it is truly stable. That and possibly look into fixing the backlight, not sure if it is worth the time/risk.

- Antelope


----------



## ruawzrd

Question regarding the UNIX...

How effective do these models get OC'd and what is the max refresh rate that most of these monitors reach? I'm debating on getting one
Here's my current build https://pcpartpicker.com/user/suavebrahhh/saved/

Thx


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suavebrahhh*
> 
> Question regarding the UNIX...
> 
> How effective do these models get OC'd and what is the max refresh rate that most of these monitors reach? I'm debating on getting one
> Here's my current build https://pcpartpicker.com/user/suavebrahhh/saved/
> 
> Thx


Got mine to 100hz within 5 min out of the box. Haven't needed to push farther than that. Read through the thread a little bit. There are tons of facts and figures in here. I can tell you that you wouldn't be dissapointed in the monitor. 2560x1440p all the way.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suavebrahhh*
> 
> Question regarding the QNIX...


Read the first post or use the search function, your question has been asked 100000x. OC=96-120hz.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suavebrahhh*
> 
> Question regarding the UNIX...
> 
> How effective do these models get OC'd and what is the max refresh rate that most of these monitors reach? I'm debating on getting one
> Here's my current build https://pcpartpicker.com/user/suavebrahhh/saved/
> 
> Thx


There's no way to answer this, really. Some reach 120hz, most reach 110hz, basically all should do 96hz... I've had three, and I reached 110, 110 and 120hz respectively without scan lines or artifacts.
Don't debate, just do it. I mean, I've tried so many crap monitors before the korean ones, and they are just superior in my opinion, especially if you like a bit of fiddling and OC'ing... Which is what we're here for









You should read this if you're on the fence: http://www.overclock.net/t/1232084/yamakasi-catleap-q270-100hz-guaranteed/590#post_16887942

This applies to the qnix/x-star as well.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Haven't stopped by this thead in a while, glad to see it is still kicking. I don't think I have ever posted up my setup before, so here it is! De-bezzeled single-input Qnix vesa mounted to an HP stand, with some other goodies











*p.s. If anyone is down to do any cool graphics for the OP, such as a banner or section title headers, let me know! The OP could use a facelift, and seeing as this is one of the most popular threads on OCN, there must be some talented people out there who also love these monitors*


----------



## Rawng

Not sure if someone can help me but this is what I received. The card I'm running is a 970 Strix.


----------



## GoldenboyXD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> Not sure if someone can help me but this is what I received. The card I'm running is a 970 Strix.


Restart without driver signature verification. It will work! I assume you are using Win 8.1?


----------



## Rawng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoldenboyXD*
> 
> Restart without driver signature verification. It will work! I assume you are using Win 8.1?


Thanks for the reply. I am using 8.1 and also how do I restart with that? Sorry never done this before. Figured it out and have the profile loaded.

Also when I try and run frame skipping test on that site I constantly get "Imperfect Sync. Try closing all apps and browser tabs." I literally have everything closed in my taskbar and no tabs open in FF


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> Also when I try and run frame skipping test on that site I constantly get "Imperfect Sync. Try closing all apps and browser tabs." I literally have everything closed in my taskbar and no tabs open in FF


Make sure your browser isn't full screen, resize it to make it not quite touching the edges of your screen - Adam


----------



## dpl2007

I noticed a strange thing recently...if have two monitors set up one 96 the other 60Hz I get slight popop's and crackles if you know what I mean in the audio in games (nothing major annoying). But no pops etc. if I use the 96hz qnix on us own...strange.


----------



## bluedevil

So just to kill my curiosity, would crossfired r9 290s with a 4790k be enough to drive 3 QX2710s in a vertical config (4320x2560 vertical)? And if so, what has to be done for the connections?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So just to kill my curiosity, would crossfired r9 290s with a 4790k be enough to drive 3 QX2710s in a vertical config (4320x2560 vertical)? And if so, what has to be done for the connections?


I wouldn't bother. Running such a high resolution (>4K) will make you heavily dependent on CrossFire scaling working across all games. Some games are not very friendly with multi-GPU so they just do not cooperate with Nvidia SLi / AMD CrossFire. I'm using 2 x 7970 to push 1440p 110Hz and I have to turn AA off and maybe turn down a few settings a notch or two to get the crazy framerates that this monitor deserves. 2 x 290s are not much more powerful than 7970 CF and pushing 3 times that resolution @ 96Hz may leave a bitter taste when you do not get the framerate you expect. Adding more GPUs will get you into further trouble as scaling beyond 3 GPUs tends to be abysmal.

If you're fine with running this and that game on a single monitor when things don't work out, then sure. But me, I would never go for such a setup in the present.


----------



## JMattes

What about SLI 970s


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I wouldn't bother. Running such a high resolution (>4K) will make you heavily dependent on CrossFire scaling working across all games. Some games are not very friendly with multi-GPU so they just do not cooperate with Nvidia SLi / AMD CrossFire. I'm using 2 x 7970 to push 1440p 110Hz and I have to turn AA off and maybe turn down a few settings a notch or two to get the crazy framerates that this monitor deserves. 2 x 290s are not much more powerful than 7970 CF and pushing 3 times that resolution @ 96Hz may leave a bitter taste when you do not get the framerate you expect. Adding more GPUs will get you into further trouble as scaling beyond 3 GPUs tends to be abysmal.
> 
> If you're fine with running this and that game on a single monitor when things don't work out, then sure. But me, I would never go for such a setup in the present.


So in terms of 4k and above, running a single monitor is always better. Trouble is that there is no 4k 96hz + options out.


----------



## CoolGuy90

Is there a big difference between the AHVA in Multi TRUE10 compared to the Samsung PLS panel?


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone have some good timings for a 96hz profile to have the gpu memory downclock at idle?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So in terms of 4k and above, running a single monitor is always better. Trouble is that there is no 4k 96hz + options out.


No, we're assuming multi-monitor should work fine here, which it will for most of the time I'm guessing. The problem is the total resolution itself. 3x 1440p is higher than 1x 2160p (4K).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> Is there a big difference between the AHVA in Multi TRUE10 compared to the Samsung PLS panel?


For the panel itself, slightly lower contrast ratio (700:1), not sure about color accuracy, color gamut, gamma, or uniformity. I suppose the PLS will have a color gamut slightly larger than the AHVA panel given that the PLS panel's color gamut exceeds the standard sRGB colorspace.

As for the monitor, 2 frames of input lag @ 60Hz vs. 2-3ms, no overclocking. If you're going to use the monitor on a PC only, that supports a dual-link DVI input, get the single input.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone have some good timings for a 96hz profile to have the gpu memory downclock at idle?


At 96Hz, stock pixel clock should allow for downclocking.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Haha yeah that's gonna be a bit of a mismatch, but I'm not planning a triple setup anyway. Ordered it yesterday so pretty excited!
> About AznCQ's issue, I tried everything, including a windows repair, safe mode driver removal, driver rollback, etc etc etc. NOTHING worked, until I restored an older image, and everything was cool.
> It's a real bummer having to reinstall windows and all that, but if you really want what you had, I don't see any other way.
> *I'd create a test partition and install fresh there, and run it as a dual boot. Just install whatever is necessary (drivers, win updates etc) and see if you can get to the where you wanna be then.
> *If you succeed, then you will know there is some kind of driver corruption or similar issue happening on your current system
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> There's no way to answer this, really. Some reach 120hz, most reach 110hz, basically all should do 96hz... I've had three, and I reached 110, 110 and 120hz respectively without scan lines or artifacts.
> Don't debate, just do it. I mean, I've tried so many crap monitors before the korean ones, and they are just superior in my opinion, especially if you like a bit of fiddling and OC'ing... Which is what we're here for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should read this if you're on the fence: http://www.overclock.net/t/1232084/yamakasi-catleap-q270-100hz-guaranteed/590#post_16887942
> 
> This applies to the qnix/x-star as well.
Click to expand...

Good tip (bold) ... Nice info +R ... like the link to, bit dated but still useful composition!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antelope*
> 
> Hi, I have filled out my system specs, it should be in my signature now.
> 
> As far as the monitor, here is the rundown:
> 
> *Item Purchased:* Qnix QX2710 Evolution II Matte Perfect Pixel
> *Place of purchase:* Amazon
> *Vendor:* MNW Global
> *Arrival:* 2-3days
> *Dead Pixels:* 0
> *Backlight Bleed:* Moderate
> *Colors at default:* Great
> *Stand:* Sucks
> *GPU driving:* GTX 970 SLI
> *OC:* 120Hz stable
> *Framedrops:* 0, tested via 1/5 shutter speed multiple images
> *Gamma shift @ OC:* Strong, fixed with Color Sustainer profile.
> *DVI Cable:* Did not use stock
> 
> I used these timings/parameters from the guru3D thread and it works better than the default manual (120Hz with LCD-reduced selected):
> http://i.imgur.com/2Cq4lxS.png
> 
> I used this color profile @ 120Hz via Color Sustainer (the Native dipscal 120):
> http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23100
> 
> Here is a quick picture of the stability... (I have accurate ones at 1/5 shutter, but not uploaded, this was taken with iPhone):
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/AqvNHrL
> 
> 
> I also changed out the provided D-DVI cable with one that is about a foot shorter and slightly thicker. It came with my old LG 120Hz TN panel.
> 
> Only thing left to do is run it for a a bit and make sure it is truly stable. That and possibly look into fixing the backlight, not sure if it is worth the time/risk.
> 
> - Antelope


Very nice/useful presentation ... I wish all newcomers had this insight ... +R









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> Is there a big difference between the AHVA in Multi TRUE10 compared to the Samsung PLS panel?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> For the panel itself, slightly lower contrast ratio (700:1), not sure about color accuracy, color gamut, gamma, or uniformity. I suppose the PLS will have a color gamut slightly larger than the AHVA panel given that the PLS panel's color gamut exceeds the standard sRGB colorspace.
> 
> As for the monitor, 2 frames of input lag @ 60Hz vs. 2-3ms, no overclocking. If you're going to use the monitor on a PC only, that supports a dual-link DVI input, get the single input.
Click to expand...

This ^^^^ ... yes there is a big difference ... read more about it *HERE* ... or the OP now updated to "1st time buyer tips" ... +R to wntrsnowg









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone have some good timings for a 96hz profile to have the gpu memory downclock at idle?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> At 96Hz, stock pixel clock should allow for downclocking.
Click to expand...

This ^^^^ BGKris







As (if?) you raise your OC's and need timings for ram downclocking read more about it in Lawson's OC guide *HERE* ...


----------



## sid4975

hey guys just got my qnix today, ive been messing with it for about an hour and I guess I got a **** one cuz I cant get a stable clock higher then 96hz. actually I just re-edited this I cant even get 96hz without getting vertical thin green lines flashing every few seconds

this is the exact one I ordered http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JK1RP3170

first off I know nothing about overclocking monitors, or pcs for that matter, but anyway I followed the guide on the 1st page and installed the driver from step 2 and any changes I make higher then 100hz gives me instance big green lines up and down the screen.

I have a single gigabyte 980 so I assumed I only need to install the monitor driver and change the resolution in NVidia control panel?

could someone give me a stable resolution profile for like 105hz and a 110hz and ill give it one last try. im sure theres an answer in these 1000+ pages but it would take all day to find it lol.

thanx
SiD


----------



## AznCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Haha yeah that's gonna be a bit of a mismatch, but I'm not planning a triple setup anyway. Ordered it yesterday so pretty excited!
> About AznCQ's issue, I tried everything, including a windows repair, safe mode driver removal, driver rollback, etc etc etc. NOTHING worked, until I restored an older image, and everything was cool.
> It's a real bummer having to reinstall windows and all that, but if you really want what you had, I don't see any other way.
> I'd create a test partition and install fresh there, and run it as a dual boot. Just install whatever is necessary (drivers, win updates etc) and see if you can get to the where you wanna be then.
> If you succeed, then you will know there is some kind of driver corruption or similar issue happening on your current system


Well I might just do a format reinstall then.. will report back with results later.

EDIT: Just to add, I'm reading the geforce forums and it seems like a good amount of people having trouble with the gigabyte 970, with the dvi ports either not working and 120hz not even working on their legit ASUS monitors


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> At 96Hz, stock pixel clock should allow for downclocking.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This ^^^^ BGKris
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As (if?) you raise your OC's and need timings for ram downclocking read more about it in Lawson's OC guide *HERE* ...


Im going to have to look into this further because mine does not downclock at my 96hz profile. It does downclock on stock 60hz, 110/120hz though.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sid4975*
> 
> hey guys just got my qnix today, ive been messing with it for about an hour and I guess I got a **** one cuz I cant get a stable clock higher then 96hz. actually I just re-edited this I cant even get 96hz without getting vertical thin green lines flashing every few seconds
> 
> this is the exact one I ordered http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JK1RP3170
> 
> first off I know nothing about overclocking monitors, or pcs for that matter, but anyway I followed the guide on the 1st page and installed the driver from step 2 and any changes I make higher then 100hz gives me instance big green lines up and down the screen.
> 
> I have a single gigabyte 980 so I assumed I only need to install the monitor driver and change the resolution in NVidia control panel?
> 
> could someone give me a stable resolution profile for like 105hz and a 110hz and ill give it one last try. im sure theres an answer in these 1000+ pages but it would take all day to find it lol.
> 
> thanx
> SiD


Thats a pretty good deal!

SiD on another note as I don't have one of these monitors yet so I can't help...
Did you get hit with a $20 broker fee that someone on Newegg reported?


----------



## sid4975

no that was the total with shipping included.

anyhow on top of the non-overclocking I got it 94hz and seems to be stable, but I noticed now that 3 inches out from the right side of the screen from top to bottom is a big bar that I can see on my desktop, and while gaming I can see it during dark to medium lighting just not bright. this cant be a normal thing. I don't think its backlight bleed from what I was looking up its sumthing else. this is a perfect 3 inches from top to bottom of the screen. Do I need to figure out how to rma this thing now? Or do I need to adjust sumthing?


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sid4975*
> 
> no that was the total with shipping included.
> 
> anyhow on top of the non-overclocking I got it 94hz and seems to be stable, but I noticed now that 3 inches out from the right side of the screen from top to bottom is a big bar that I can see on my desktop, and while gaming I can see it during dark to medium lighting just not bright. this cant be a normal thing. I don't think its backlight bleed from what I was looking up its sumthing else. this is a perfect 3 inches from top to bottom of the screen. Do I need to figure out how to rma this thing now? Or do I need to adjust sumthing?


Was it present prior to your OC?

Photos would help


----------



## CroSsFiRe2009

Welp, just got hosed on the monitor. Ordered a "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" SAMSUNG PLS 2560x1440 WQHD PC Monitor" only listed single dvi and no hdmi. Got shipped a multi 10. Even paid a premium for it too over the other screens.

Does anybody know what screw goes into the base of the monitor? Mine came stripped and got no clue what to replace it with.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroSsFiRe2009*
> 
> Welp, just got hosed on the monitor. Ordered a "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" SAMSUNG PLS 2560x1440 WQHD PC Monitor" only listed single dvi and no hdmi. Got shipped a multi 10. Even paid a premium for it too over the other screens.
> 
> Does anybody know what screw goes into the base of the monitor? Mine came stripped and got no clue what to replace it with.


Wow, wrong monitor and a stripped screw on the base?

I dont think I would be OK with that, as I would be making a big stink until the seller took care of it.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CroSsFiRe2009*
> 
> Welp, just got hosed on the monitor. Ordered a "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" SAMSUNG PLS 2560x1440 WQHD PC Monitor" only listed single dvi and no hdmi. Got shipped a multi 10. Even paid a premium for it too over the other screens.
> 
> Does anybody know what screw goes into the base of the monitor? Mine came stripped and got no clue what to replace it with.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, wrong monitor and a stripped screw on the base?
> 
> I dont think I would be OK with that, as I would be making a big stink until the seller took care of it.
Click to expand...

I agree, don't accept the monitor. What seller was this?


----------



## sid4975

i actually just took the refresh rate back down to 60hz and the bar on the side did disappear! *** did i pay for if i cant even overclock to 94hz??!! I must be doing sumthing wrong. i tried playing with the timings a bit and i set them almost as low as they could go and i still couldn't get it stable

well im at 90hz and the thing on the side is gone, but im really disappointed. I wonder if i got a bunk one

can someone tell me if I need to do something else other then whats listed on the first post of this topic? I have one of the new gtx 980's and running latest certified driver. I uninstalled GeForce experience. do I need to use any of those other programs?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sid4975*
> 
> i actually just took the refresh rate back down to 60hz and the bar on the side did disappear! *** did i pay for if i cant even overclock to 94hz??!! I must be doing sumthing wrong. i tried playing with the timings a bit and i set them almost as low as they could go and i still couldn't get it stable
> 
> well im at 90hz and the thing on the side is gone, but im really disappointed. I wonder if i got a bunk one
> 
> can someone tell me if I need to do something else other then whats listed on the first post of this topic? I have one of the new gtx 980's and running latest certified driver. I uninstalled GeForce experience. do I need to use any of those other programs?


This is what I'd do. Do you have a spare drive or ssd you can temporary load Windows and test your monitor clocks? That's what I'd do before ruling out a faulty monitor. It could also be a driver issue with the 9xx series.


----------



## sid4975

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> This is what I'd do. Do you have a spare drive or ssd you can temporary load Windows and test your monitor clocks? That's what I'd do before ruling out a faulty monitor. It could also be a driver issue with the 9xx series.


ok ill give it a try I have a 64gb crucial with just windows on it, ill try it shortly


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sid4975*
> 
> ok ill give it a try I have a 64gb crucial with just windows on it, ill try it shortly


Awesome!


----------



## sid4975

heres pictures of what i get on my screen if i set my refresh any higher then 86hz. If anyone can tell me right away what this is that'd be great
also this is just a quick desktop pic i could find that really showed the line. It extends all the way down the right side of the screen just not in this picture. its a prefect line down the whole right side. I get it when gaming also obviously


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Wow, wrong monitor and a stripped screw on the base?
> 
> I dont think I would be OK with that, as I would be making a big stink until the seller took care of it.


what seller? you get it from amazon or ebay?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> what seller? you get it from amazon or ebay?


Don't ask me, ask the person who got ripped off.. lol, I have no clue who the seller was, but I would like to know myself.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21230#post_23016253


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Don't ask me, ask the person who got ripped off.. lol, I have no clue who the seller was, but I would like to know myself.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21230#post_23016253


Ah pooh.. I hit qoute on the wrong post again didnt I?
I am dying to buy one of these monitors.. need to know who to stay away from


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Ah pooh.. I hit qoute on the wrong post again didnt I?
> I am dying to buy one of these monitors.. need to know who to stay away from


Yeah be careful because I have seen a spike in sellers sending the wrong monitors as of late. Like they are not paying attention during shipping. I think all the super fast wifi channels are frying their brains over there or something.


----------



## ZeratulR

Hey guys any suggestions on a 1440p monitor for a triple monitor setup? And also, are all monitors "overclockable"?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeratulR*
> 
> Hey guys any suggestions on a 1440p monitor for a triple monitor setup? And also, are all monitors "overclockable"?


either Qnix,X-STAR, Catleap 2B OC

They all are ocverclockable but is not guaranteed. Most can hit 96Hz with ease.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Actually, I would do three Overlord's Tempest OC if you want to have three monitors that are guaranteed to all be overclocked equally. With the Qnix or Xstars, it is a crap shoot and chances are with three of them you will get one that does 120, one that does 110hz and one that can barely hit 96hz. Or get three Catleap 2B OC Extreme's and cross your fingers, lol...

However, with the Overlord monitors you can ask them to bin them to match each other and you know it will be tested. At least I think you can... lol

If you have money burning a hole, you can try the Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q times 3, which has NVIDIA G-Sync.


----------



## castlefire

I think reason why they are sending wrong monitor is that everyone wants it fast like 5 days after order. I used Dream-Seller x-star perfect pixel matt version. It took him about 1 week to ship out. Once in my hands it was perfect condition no BLB or any dead pixels


dont be in a rush to get the monitor and also paying for perfect pixel version is worth the extra 20 dlls


----------



## Antelope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I am dying to buy one of these monitors.. need to know who to stay away from


I just bought one myself on Amazon from MNW Global. They seemed to have the best reviews as far as I could tell and personally I got a great monitor.

Check my post here regarding mine, ofc YMMV:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21200#post_23010781


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeratulR*
> 
> Hey guys any suggestions on a 1440p monitor for a triple monitor setup? And also, are all monitors "overclockable"?


I have three Qnix that I got about 11 months ago. two of them OC to 120, the third only goes to 110. your experience will be different. There is no guarantee what you will get.


----------



## peelypeel

I just received my [Perfect Pixel] X-STAR DP2710 from dream-seller. Gorgeous display, no dead pixels, no bleed as far as I can see, glossy. But it seams i've bought the wrong 1440p monitor. I wanted to plug in my Xbox, but the screen wont accept it as an HDMI>DVI input, it just stays black. Google tells me this is because the monitor doesn't do internal scaling, and I need a monitor with HDMI input.

So, what screen should I have bought? I'm considering just selling this monitor and buying another new one, but I'm worried ill get a worse panel.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peelypeel*
> 
> I just received my [Perfect Pixel] X-STAR DP2710 from dream-seller. Gorgeous display, no dead pixels, no bleed as far as I can see, glossy. But it seams i've bought the wrong 1440p monitor. I wanted to plug in my Xbox, but the screen wont accept it as an HDMI>DVI input, it just stays black. Google tells me this is because the monitor doesn't do internal scaling, and I need a monitor with HDMI input.
> 
> So, what screen should I have bought? I'm considering just selling this monitor and buying another new one, but I'm worried ill get a worse panel.


They make the Qnix with multi-input. If you need HDMI that would be my recommendation. You won't be able to overclock like the single input DVI model, but if your only using for your xbox, that shouldn't matter.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peelypeel*
> 
> I just received my [Perfect Pixel] X-STAR DP2710 from dream-seller. Gorgeous display, no dead pixels, no bleed as far as I can see, glossy. But it seams i've bought the wrong 1440p monitor. I wanted to plug in my Xbox, but the screen wont accept it as an HDMI>DVI input, it just stays black. Google tells me this is because the monitor doesn't do internal scaling, and I need a monitor with HDMI input.
> 
> So, what screen should I have bought? I'm considering just selling this monitor and buying another new one, but I'm worried ill get a worse panel.


Dang, you are correct about the scaler part, definitely a pitfall with these.

I recommend what Menacing Tuba recommends:
For glossy, Crossover 2720MDP from Dream-Seller on eBay (this is my choice)
for matte:
AOC Q2770QPU

You can't have an overclocking monitor that will work with consoles


----------



## peelypeel

Thanks for the super quick answers guys
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> You won't be able to overclock like the single input DVI model, but if your only using for your xbox, that shouldn't matter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> You can't have an overclocking monitor that will work with consoles


I'll use it for my PC screen and to play Xbox on, but I'm not bothered about overlclocking because I don't game much on my PC, I mainly just browse the web and program.

@electro2u, the Crossover 2720MDP and AOC Q2770QPU look to be quite a bit more expesnive unfortunatly, so there not an option.

@Roland2, do you mean this one?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peelypeel*
> 
> Thanks for the super quick answers guys
> 
> I'll use it for my PC screen and to play Xbox on, but I'm not bothered about overlclocking because I don't game much on my PC, I mainly just browse the web and program.
> 
> @electro2u, the Crossover 2720MDP and AOC Q2770QPU look to be quite a bit more expesnive unfortunatly, so there not an option.
> 
> @Roland2, do you mean this one?


That one or this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Super-QHD-Multi-Matte-27-inch-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-LED-Monitor-/121399470429?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c43f8e95d

The true10's have lag issues, I don't think the non-true10 multi's are as bad.


----------



## sid4975

sorry for the re-post but does anyone know what this is on my screen when i overclock? Like i said i cant even get past 86hz without this showing up on the side of the screen. I was hoping for an answer before i went out and bought a new cable to try and then tried a return


----------



## peelypeel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The true10's have lag issues, I don't think the non-true10 multi's are as bad.


Thanks, that one is also not a "SE" version, which I've read somewhere means its failed QA or something. Can you explain what you mean by lag issues? Ii know what lag is, but i'm used not GPU FPS lag, not monitor lag)


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peelypeel*
> 
> Thanks, that one is also not a "SE" version, which I've read somewhere means its failed QA or something. Can you explain what you mean by lag issues? Ii know what lag is, but i'm used not GPU FPS lag, not monitor lag)


TomcatV has covered this a lot better then I could. Please see this post and the links referenced there: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21220#post_23014770


----------



## StrongForce

Anyone know if that Ebay seller is legit, it does seem so, also there is one pixel perfect version, I'm thinking to get this one..

http://www.ebay.fr/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?hash=item19dd686649&pt=Computer_Monitors

http://www.ebay.fr/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/121457291776?hash=item1c476b3200&pt=Computer_Monitors

I'm not even sure what's the difference gonna be in matte or glossy.. which one is best recommended ? I still have to investigate so I'll read the first post thoroughly ! Oh I guess matte cause they sold 430 of those









Also it seem like on this shop they put different names for the same monitors.. or is it that some of these monitors have different panels ??

This is a bit confusing lol, look for instance this one says Samsung PLS 27 Zoll ??

http://www.ebay.fr/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27-Zoll-Monitor-/130913840957?hash=item1e7b12af3d&pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme

Lol, I'm like in the dark right now








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> I noticed a strange thing recently...if have two monitors set up one 96 the other 60Hz I get slight popop's and crackles if you know what I mean in the audio in games (nothing major annoying). But no pops etc. if I use the 96hz qnix on us own...strange.


What you mean you're using the screen audio ?? or is there even audio on these.


----------



## peelypeel

Ok, it looks like the lag thing is really about harder core gamers, and that's just not me. So I'll be ok with the one you linked. Thanks

Just to double check before I impulse-sell my brand new screen, the QNIX QX2710 HDMI input will accept my Xbox One and just scale the content appropriately? Can anyone confirm this for me please?

EDIT: I've been reading all around, adn everyons unanimouse opoinion is that a screen with HDMi will work with a none 1440p source, so i'll take that.

If anyone wants a flawless x-star DP2710LED, I'll be putting it on ebay UK tomorrow


----------



## peelypeel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> I'm not even sure what's the difference gonna be in matte or glossy.. which one is best recommended ?


Glossy screens are reflective, matt screens cut down on reflections. The trade off is glossy screens look nicer/clearler/have more pop, but if you have something bright behind you, you will find it increasingly hard to see your screen. Smartphones are Glossy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Also it seem like on this shop they put different names for the same monitors.. or is it that some of these monitors have different panels ??
> 
> This is a bit confusing lol, look for instance this one says Samsung PLS 27 Zoll ??
> 
> http://www.ebay.fr/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27-Zoll-Monitor-/130913840957?hash=item1e7b12af3d&pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme


Yeah, i'm not 100% sure what all the extra words mean, if they mean anything, i think its just model names.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sid4975*
> 
> sorry for the re-post but does anyone know what this is on my screen when i overclock? Like i said i cant even get past 86hz without this showing up on the side of the screen. I was hoping for an answer before i went out and bought a new cable to try and then tried a return


I think no one is replying because no one knows what that is. However, I know exactly what that is. It is a panel defect which was caught by LG or one of the other big brand name monitor companies and therefore sold to X-Star at a discounted price. Remember all of these panels are grade A- or worse. It just depends on whether or not the human can discover the reason why it was sold to X-Star.

Looks like you discovered your panels reason. I would try installing different icm profiles to see if anything changes it back to normal or not. When does this occur exactly again?


----------



## CroSsFiRe2009

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I agree, don't accept the monitor. What seller was this?


This is the one I ordered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/111258830737?ss

Emailed. No response from him yet. Could've been an honest mistake. I'll update if I get any more info. Super pissed off at the moment.

Edit.. and I just realized the damn thing is on sale now too. ***


----------



## JMattes

If anyone is willing to part with one of their monitors I am certainly interested









http://www.overclock.net/t/1519314/wtb-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor

Looking to join the club! :


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroSsFiRe2009*
> 
> This is the one I ordered.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/111258830737?ss
> 
> Emailed. No response from him yet. Could've been an honest mistake. I'll update if I get any more info. Super pissed off at the moment.
> 
> Edit.. and I just realized the damn thing is on sale now too. ***


Even if it was an honest mistake, you still have a monitor without a working stand, right? Now if you're forced to keep the thing, you have to buy a VESA stand for it. I would want at least a $150 refund minimum, that way I could buy my own Overclocking kit for it and get a decent stand myself.


----------



## CroSsFiRe2009

Yea. I agree. $370USD/$428 CAD with another $40cad in duties for what I got is pretty inexcusable. Do they ever get people to ship monitors back to them or is that just for rma/dead screens?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroSsFiRe2009*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I agree, don't accept the monitor. What seller was this?
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I ordered.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/111258830737?ss
> 
> Emailed. No response from him yet. Could've been an honest mistake. I'll update if I get any more info. Super pissed off at the moment.
> 
> Edit.. and I just realized the damn thing is on sale now too. ***
Click to expand...

AccessoriesWhole has been around for a while, usually they are a good seller. Also ask them for a price adjustment and "demand" free return shipping since item not as described, but just be nice and courteous.


----------



## sid4975

thanx for the reply,

It starts showing at 86mhz or higher, and gets worse the higher I overclock, but big green lines show at about 100mhz, or it flips into a non stop color flash mode where it just flashed between all the colors and I have to reset it.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpl2007*
> 
> I noticed a strange thing recently...if have two monitors set up one 96 the other 60Hz I get slight popop's and crackles if you know what I mean in the audio in games (nothing major annoying). But no pops etc. if I use the 96hz qnix on us own...strange.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Even if it was an honest mistake, you still have a monitor without a working stand, right? Now if you're forced to keep the thing, you have to buy a VESA stand for it. I would want at least a $150 refund minimum, that way I could buy my own Overclocking kit for it and get a decent stand myself.


what do you mean overclocking kit ??


----------



## gow3

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413669304&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix

Is this a good deal? I need 3 for a surround setup for nvidia gtx 670s. I'm hoping these monitors don't fail randomly...


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> what do you mean overclocking kit ??


I think he means an overclocking capable pcb (single input)?


----------



## gow3

is this 1.07 b or 16.7 millon?


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I think he means an overclocking capable pcb (single input)?


well if it's not the right display.. he can ask for returning it and getting the right one without paying a cent.. if they refuse, dispute, I doubt they will though that shop seem so popular, that's where I planned to order mine, if i do order it







it better be the right monitor though









Also anyone knows if say you got bad back bleeding, could the RMA work for that ?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413669304&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix
> 
> Is this a good deal? I need 3 for a surround setup for nvidia gtx 670s. I'm hoping these monitors don't fail randomly...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> is this 1.07 b or 16.7 millon?


The ones you linked look good. These monitors are 16.7 mil color.


----------



## gow3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The ones you linked look good. These monitors are 16.7 mil color.


But I read somewhere that they were 1.07 billion colors...


----------



## dpl2007

I noticed a strange thing recently...if I have two
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Anyone know if that Ebay seller is legit, it does seem so, also there is one pixel perfect version, I'm thinking to get this one..
> 
> http://www.ebay.fr/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?hash=item19dd686649&pt=Computer_Monitors
> 
> http://www.ebay.fr/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/121457291776?hash=item1c476b3200&pt=Computer_Monitors
> 
> I'm not even sure what's the difference gonna be in matte or glossy.. which one is best recommended ? I still have to investigate so I'll read the first post thoroughly ! Oh I guess matte cause they sold 430 of those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also it seem like on this shop they put different names for the same monitors.. or is it that some of these monitors have different panels ??
> 
> This is a bit confusing lol, look for instance this one says Samsung PLS 27 Zoll ??
> 
> http://www.ebay.fr/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27-Zoll-Monitor-/130913840957?hash=item1e7b12af3d&pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Computer_Monitore_Flachbildschirme
> 
> Lol, I'm like in the dark right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you mean you're using the screen audio ?? or is there even audio on these.


No no this is something I havent nailed down yet possibly to do with two monitors on different hz settings and maybe frame pacing or something anyway it only happens with two monitors doing two different things one game and the other youtube or mp3 things like this not sure what it is yet could just be a rare problem. And yer overclocking kit not sure what hes on about.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> But I read somewhere that they were 1.07 billion colors...


That would be the True10 ones. But I'm not sure they are actually 10 bit panels, or if they are just advertised that way. They also don't overclock.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> is this 1.07 b or 16.7 millon?


Read my signature and forget about 1 billion vs 16.7 million colours since it is irrelevant unless you plan on using an AMD Firepro or Nvidia Quadro gpu.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> Is there a big difference between the AHVA in Multi TRUE10 compared to the Samsung PLS panel?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Read my signature and forget about 1 billion vs 16.7 million colours since it is irrelevant unless you plan on using an AMD Firepro or Nvidia Quadro gpu.


New AMD drivers do have 10-bit support on the Radeon consumer cards but it won't benefit 8-bit content, that's for sure.


----------



## peelypeel

NO idea if i'm allowed to do this, but I figure why not.

Selling my brand new X-STAR DP2710, from UK.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-QHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-UK-SELLER-/301359556747?


----------



## kapnobatai

Hello again guys,

I disassembled my Xstar DP2710 and, as I suspected, the metal bezel frame is very curved in the middle, aswell as the panel itself (including the back metal sheet), although the panel is not that obvious or strong bent.

Another thing is that the hard foam spacers on the plastic back plate are uneven and some of them are missing.

Please take a look at the pictures, any ideas of fixing/ flattening the metal bezel (as I m afraid to apply to much pressure to bend it back flat) are golden.

I also considered ditching the plastic case and installing (with epoxy) a strong flat aluminium plate on the back of the panel, which should assure a flat panel, but I somehow hesitate to expose the back components (cables, keyboard, pcb and so on)

If some of you maybe already have the needed dimension/thickness of the spacers, please share, otherwise I ll have to somehow find a way to measure them (risky business)

Please click for original size, many thanks.

Btw, dreamseller didn t yet respond on facebook on my 'thin white line' complaint, but I m sure he ll do it after a negative on ebay (considering the backlightbleeding acceptable, I don't consider acceptable the amount of bending and the thin white line issue). What do you think?

even the panel itself is bent:

the metal frame, seriously deformed:

missing foam spacers?:

foam spacers with different heights?:


----------



## kapnobatai

follow up. after carefully flatten the metal bezel and even more carefully flatten (slightly) the panel, I taped the metal bezel with electrical tape and all my blb is gone!
well, not on the 1st try, there were 2 points which remained light-pinched, but I removed the front plastic bezel and the pinches were gone. the plastic bezel has a 1mm thick line on the upper and lower inner edge of the frame, which press directly against the panel and I think due to the fact that the whole monitor was for so long curved, maybe the plastic remained deformed. I used a cutter and sandpaper to remove the 1mm line and everything was fine.
I also replaced the original stand with a eizo vesa stand, very nice, but one of the monitor nuts went loose and began turning with the stand screw. I suspect the monitor nuts are shorter then the tipical vesa mount nuts, so maybe place another spacer or two when you mount the screw.

For now I m good but definitely I ll have to get rid of the plastic case.

one more question: I forgot to test what the hidden auto and menu buttons do, does anyone have some information on this?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peelypeel*
> 
> NO idea if i'm allowed to do this, but I figure why not.
> 
> Selling my brand new X-STAR DP2710, from UK.


I think it is okay to mention like you did, but nothing more than that. There are for sale classifieds on this forum where you can post pictures and a legit listing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> one more question: I forgot to test what the hidden auto and menu buttons do, does anyone have some information on this?


Those buttons do not work at all. There is no software in the monitor for them. Qnix just used the same pcb off of a monitor that actually uses those buttons


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peelypeel*
> 
> NO idea if i'm allowed to do this, but I figure why not.
> 
> Selling my brand new X-STAR DP2710, from UK.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-QHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-UK-SELLER-/301359556747?


I wish I lived close to you, lol... good luck selling it, I hope it goes quick...


----------



## electro2u

Can get what you paid for it if not more on eBay because it's local and perfect condition.


----------



## peelypeel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> There are for sale classifieds on this forum where you can post pictures and a legit listing.


Thanks for letting me know, I'll mention it on there for any UK OCNers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I wish I lived close to you, lol... good luck selling it, I hope it goes quick...


You and em the same, the faster it sells, the faster I can buy the right one lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Can get what you paid for it if not more on eBay because it's local and perfect condition.


I'm only looking to make back the money it cost me. It'll sell faster that way i hope.


----------



## Captaincaveman

I bought the Accell DP to DVI-D which allows me to connect the third monitor to my 290. However, I cannot seem to be able to get anything above 60hz as an option in windows even after adding it with CRU.
Anyone has any experience with these adapters?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> I bought the Accell DP to DVI-D which allows me to connect the third monitor to my 290. However, I cannot seem to be able to get anything above 60hz as an option in windows even after adding it with CRU.
> Anyone has any experience with these adapters?


I have this adapter, but haven't tried OCing with it. I'll try tomorrow to test it on my system.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I have this adapter, but haven't tried OCing with it. I'll try tomorrow to test it on my system.


Thanks!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> I bought the Accell DP to DVI-D which allows me to connect the third monitor to my 290. However, I cannot seem to be able to get anything above 60hz as an option in windows even after adding it with CRU.
> Anyone has any experience with these adapters?


Someone posted one a couple of days ago they got from amazon that I believe will let you overclock. I believe it said something about 3D in the description


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Someone posted one a couple of days ago they got from amazon that I believe will let you overclock. I believe it said something about 3D in the description


That's the one I have, so will try to test tomorrow.


----------



## Roland2

Well, I got some time, so did some testing today with the Accell B087B-007B DP to DVI adaptor with a Qniz 2710 DVI only monitor. I was using a GTX 780Ti GPU.

It looks like you can overclock, but not very far. I am no expert on the UFO test for verifying OC, so if I'm miss interpreting these pictures let me know.

To me it looks good at 86Hz and 90Hz, but bad at 96Hz.





When I first OC'd the monitor and accepted changes, the monitor went blank (all black). I went into NVCP and turned it off, then back on and it fixed the issue.

I was able to go into Nvidia surround at 90Hz with no problem, but it didn't want to come back out. I had to shut down, connect back normal, then re-configure surround.

Hope this helps.


----------



## xliquidx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> follow up. after carefully flatten the metal bezel and even more carefully flatten (slightly) the panel, I taped the metal bezel with electrical tape and all my blb is gone!
> well, not on the 1st try, there were 2 points which remained light-pinched, but I removed the front plastic bezel and the pinches were gone. the plastic bezel has a 1mm thick line on the upper and lower inner edge of the frame, which press directly against the panel and I think due to the fact that the whole monitor was for so long curved, maybe the plastic remained deformed. I used a cutter and sandpaper to remove the 1mm line and everything was fine.
> I also replaced the original stand with a eizo vesa stand, very nice, but one of the monitor nuts went loose and began turning with the stand screw. I suspect the monitor nuts are shorter then the tipical vesa mount nuts, so maybe place another spacer or two when you mount the screw.
> 
> For now I m good but definitely I ll have to get rid of the plastic case.
> 
> one more question: I forgot to test what the hidden auto and menu buttons do, does anyone have some information on this?


Mine is the same I think, you could try heating the plastic panel up and try to bend is straight, if you've already sanded the inner edges not much else you can do really


----------



## NASzi

just ordered the qnix qx2710 from a seller on amazon, any suggestions? I do plan on overlocking.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> just ordered the qnix qx2710 from a seller on amazon, any suggestions? I do plan on overlocking.


let us know how it works, I'm tempted to order one too so I'm always curious







.

And holy, what a name.


----------



## kapnobatai

back again.

Please take a look at this funny white line. *** is that? is visible on dark/black content, except at a perfect 90 degrees.
besides, there is something else fishy going on there, in the picture there is a 'mosquito screen' effect visible, in reality is not that visible. any idea what s that?

although at this moment I m satisfied with the monitor, I am worried that in time these slight defects will amplify, what do you think, please?


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peelypeel*
> 
> NO idea if i'm allowed to do this, but I figure why not.
> 
> Selling my brand new X-STAR DP2710, from UK.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-QHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-UK-SELLER-/301359556747?


Damn if i were able to debezel my new monitors i would have bought this instantly! great deal - Adam


----------



## JMattes

Whats the size of the monitor itself?

Looking to try to get a stand that can extend the QNIX above the row of 3 23" monitors I have...

I am thinking this Monitor stand may be enough
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/office-school-supply/monitor-tv-mounts/desktop-stands-and-arms/ergotron-lx-desk-mount-lcd-arm



Trying to achieve this with the QNIX but it says only up to 24" and QNIX is 27" I think its weight based really, but what do you guys think?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Whats the size of the monitor itself?
> 
> Looking to try to get a stand that can extend the QNIX above the row of 3 23" monitors I have...
> 
> I am thinking this Monitor stand may be enough
> http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/office-school-supply/monitor-tv-mounts/desktop-stands-and-arms/ergotron-lx-desk-mount-lcd-arm
> 
> Trying to achieve this with the QNIX but it says only up to 24" and QNIX is 27" I think its weight based really, but what do you guys think?


I have an MX arm with a 27" Catleap on it.... it works, but you definitely won't be able to get the setup you desire with that arm. You won't be able to get the height you need to go above the triple monitors without a custom boost in height.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I have an MX arm with a 27" Catleap on it.... it works, but you definitely won't be able to get the setup you desire with that arm. You won't be able to get the height you need to go above the triple monitors without a custom boost in height.


Hmm.. thanks for letting me know.

Maybe I need to make a shelf and then have a stand attach to that..
or just mount the thing to the wall... haha..


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gow3*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413669304&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix
> 
> Is this a good deal? I need 3 for a surround setup for nvidia gtx 670s. I'm hoping these monitors don't fail randomly...


This is where I got mine and Love it. Pixel Perfect and No problems
















Can anyone give me a good option for an optional mount. Not vesa. Just a great stand?


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, just got a catleap "2b xtreme oc whatever" and am struggling to overclock it like my qnix. The timimgs for the qnix just do not work at all on this one, and i can barely get to 96hz. My qnix easily went to 100hz without problems or adjusting timings. I can even see some faint scanlines from time to time at 96hz. Could this be some driver issues or something? I tried with and without CRU/patches and the results are the same. OC is verified in UFO but still...scan lines. I need some timings or some ideas about how to address this issue. I've poked around the catleap thread but I can't really find as much info there as on here it seems. Also...the power brick seems a bit crap, but what whatever.
Also, i have a similar issue here as I did on my qnix, I can only run it from the dual dvi outs on my bottom card, the top ones just give me a black screen. why is that exactly?


----------



## SeanEboy

So, I guess you can't go eyefinity with 3x dual link dvi? I need to get an active displayport to dual dvi adapter?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Whats the size of the monitor itself?
> 
> Looking to try to get a stand that can extend the QNIX above the row of 3 23" monitors I have...
> 
> I am thinking this Monitor stand may be enough
> http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/office-school-supply/monitor-tv-mounts/desktop-stands-and-arms/ergotron-lx-desk-mount-lcd-arm
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to achieve this with the QNIX but it says only up to 24" and QNIX is 27" I think its weight based really, but what do you guys think?


This stand just popped up at Massdropp. Supports up to 27inch and has vesa mounts
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergotech-freedom-arm?mode=guest_open.
I dont have personal experiance with it but it looks pretty decent to me.

Edit: fixed quote, remind me not to quote from my phone again.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> This stand just popped up at Massdropp. Supports up to 27inch and has vesa mounts
> https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ergotech-freedom-arm?mode=guest_open.
> I dont have personal experiance with it but it looks pretty decent to me.
> 
> Edit: fixed quote, remind me not to quote from my phone again.


This is a great find.. I am trying to figure out if it will adjust high enough..

It says full extension range of 26.7, which is what I need but I don't know if that is height...
Watching the video now..

Hmmm.. Looks like a great stand.. not sure if it does what I need it too...

$67 + 12 shipping... Not sure if I want to find out the hard way though..

Its really hard to tell how high it goes haha.. The pole it removable so maybe I can get a longer one..


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> So, I guess you can't go eyefinity with 3x dual link dvi? I need to get an active displayport to dual dvi adapter?


You will need and active displayport to DVI adaptor. I used two on an ATI 7970 and put all three (one on DVI other two through DP-DVI) in eyefinity with no problems.

The adaptor I would recommend is the Accell B087B-007B like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413849315&sr=8-1&keywords=Accell+B087B-007B

Don't get the 002B version, it doesn't work with these monitors.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> You will need and active displayport to DVI adaptor. I used two on an ATI 7970 and put all three (one on DVI other two through DP-DVI) in eyefinity with no problems.
> 
> The adaptor I would recommend is the Accell B087B-007B like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413849315&sr=8-1&keywords=Accell+B087B-007B
> 
> Don't get the 002B version, it doesn't work with these monitors.


Thanks for the input Roland! I found the same one for $81.74 used. Figure it's fine, no?.. Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Mini-DisplayPort-to-DVI-D-Dual-Link-Adapter-with-3-/161258574253

Does this affect the ability to overclock the monitor at all?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Thanks for the input Roland! I found the same one for $81.74 used. Figure it's fine, no?.. Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Mini-DisplayPort-to-DVI-D-Dual-Link-Adapter-with-3-/161258574253
> 
> Does this affect the ability to overclock the monitor at all?


Looking at the specs, it would seem that 120 on 1440 may be troublesome. But I am going by the specs. They certify 120hz for 1080p, and 60hz for 1600p. So, I would think you are right down the middle of maybe 100hz or so on the monitors with the adapters. That is my guess...


----------



## titan2620

I just bought the Qnix and it came here shipped with a few small (in depth) but long scratches on the center and top right of the screen as well as some strange smear marks that I can't seem to get off at multiple locations along the very top of the monitor. I could only see these when shining a flashlight on the monitor. It also has a small amount of back light bleed on the upper right corner of the screen and two dead pixels.

Should I request an RMA or is this normal?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titan2620*
> 
> I just bought the Qnix and it came here shipped with a few small (in depth) but long scratches on the center and top right of the screen as well as some strange smear marks that I can't seem to get off at multiple locations along the very top of the monitor. I could only see these when shining a flashlight on the monitor. It also has a small amount of back light bleed on the upper right corner of the screen and two dead pixels.
> 
> Should I request an RMA or is this normal?


While I would definitely not call scratches on the panel (they are actually on the screen?) "normal", if all the defects seem minor and you cannot notice them during use I would probably not want to go through rma. Then again it depends where the monitor came from. These sellers will do absolutely everything they can to avoid an rma and it takes a while to go through their cat mouse game sometimes.


----------



## titan2620

They are indeed on the screen which is why I'm concerned. I don't really notice them during use but just knowing they are there bothers me. Screen also seems to be on the lower left side of the frame. it's very noticeably not properly positioned. Think I'm going to try for a Replacement / RMA.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titan2620*
> 
> They are indeed on the screen which is why I'm concerned. I don't really notice them during use but just knowing they are there bothers me. Screen also seems to be on the lower left side of the frame. it's very noticeably not properly positioned. Think I'm going to try for a Replacement / RMA.


Yes I received an X-star that had shifted in the panel during shipping before. It was used and had been disassembled and clearly got roughed up during the trip because the seller had before pictures. Seller was very gracious and accepted the return. I think you've received a used unit and I would open a case with eBay or Paypal if the seller pushes back in the slightest. Good luck and sorry for the trouble.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Thanks for the input Roland! I found the same one for $81.74 used. Figure it's fine, no?.. Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Mini-DisplayPort-to-DVI-D-Dual-Link-Adapter-with-3-/161258574253
> 
> Does this affect the ability to overclock the monitor at all?


It definitely affects the ability to overclock. If you look at my post from Sunday (about 2 pages before your post) you will see my results. Basicly, 90Hz was as high as I could go without frame skipping.


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, my old glossy qnix is just lying around with a broken screen, but the poweradapter and PCB etcera should be fine, It overclocked to 120hz as well. Is there anyone on this forum that needs a new PCB or power adapter?


----------



## JMattes

Anyone mind measuring the dimensions of just the monitor for me?


----------



## rb3412

Hey guys, really need some help here. I had my qnix overclocked at 96hz and recently, I updated my nVidia drivers and then when i tried overclocking it, in the nvidia control panel, nothing was displayed. I went to custom resolution and tried to overclockit at 96 hz, it didnt work. then i tried to overclock just at 60 hz and it didnt work either. Screen is going crazy with blue and green lines. Now i cant even turn on my computer without these lines and im barely able to do anything on the screen. However, in safe mode, its working perfectly fine. Is there a way I could possibly reset the qnix back to square 1 and then try to overclock? I did unpatch the nvidia clocker before i updated my drivers and patched it again after driver update. My graphics card is gtx 780. Any help would be highly appreciated.

P.S. The nvidia driver i was trying to update is 344.11 and when i used Nvidia pixel clock patcher, it said sli limit 2 not found. However, This was not an issue before.

EDIT: I just did a system restore and it works perfectly fine now however I would like to know what I would have to do if I want to update my nVidia drivers.


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> It definitely affects the ability to overclock. If you look at my post from Sunday (about 2 pages before your post) you will see my results. Basicly, 90Hz was as high as I could go without frame skipping.


Thanks for the input! I guess going 120Hz on 3x 1440p is probably out of reach anyway, right? I bet it'll work my cards pretty damn hard. I have yet to start reading the posts since I've last checked in here. Will do. Thanks again Roland2!


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Thanks for the input! I guess going 120Hz on 3x 1440p is probably out of reach anyway, right? I bet it'll work my cards pretty damn hard. I have yet to start reading the posts since I've last checked in here. Will do. Thanks again Roland2!


Well if you put two cards in SLI then you only have a one monitor issue!

Correct me if I am wrong but I think the Gigabyte 970 has 2 DVI-D ports..









Now can someone be so kind as to measure their QNIX Monitor.. haha..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Anyone mind measuring the dimensions of just the monitor for me?


Dimensions of my qnix, debezzeled (only interior metal frame left).

24 7/8" wide X 14.5" tall X 1/2" thick


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Well if you put two cards in SLI then you only have a one monitor issue!
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong but I think the Gigabyte 970 has 2 DVI-D ports..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now can someone be so kind as to measure their QNIX Monitor.. haha..


JMattes, thanks for the input. I actually have quadfire 290x, the problem is the outputs need to come out of the top card.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Anyone mind measuring the dimensions of just the monitor for me?


You want the Monitor dimensions, or the dimensions of the Samsung Panel itself?


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> You want the Monitor dimensions, or the dimensions of the Samsung Panel itself?


The overall monitor dimensions minus the stand.



Minus the across as that's 27" and the depth I don't need.


----------



## Captaincaveman

39.8 X 64.4 cm
give or take a mm.


----------



## Captaincaveman

that's with the bezel.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> JMattes, thanks for the input. I actually have quadfire 290x, the problem is the outputs need to come out of the top card.


i have trisli 290, with 3 monitors.
the 2 connected via dvi can be oced. the one connect via the accell adapter can only do 60mhz. i cannot even see other refresh rates in windows (even after adding them with cru and restarting).


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Or 25.35" x 15.51"

LOL, but I like the metric system much better. It makes a lot more sense to use...


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> 39.8 X 64.4 cm
> give or take a mm.


So roughly 25.5 x 15.75.. ok great..( rounded up)

I saw a dimension given on Amazon 25.75 and 18.5.. wanted to know how accurate it was..


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> i have trisli 290, with 3 monitors.
> the 2 connected via dvi can be oced. the one connect via the accell adapter can only do 60mhz. i cannot even see other refresh rates in windows (even after adding them with cru and restarting).


Thanks! That sucks man, why the hell can't I just plug the damn thing in... Is there a 27" 1440p that doesn't require dual dvi? I'm willing to bet there isn't due to bandwidth requirements...

Is there anyone out there running (3) 1440p @ 120Hz? Time to hunt..


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Thanks! That sucks man, why the hell can't I just plug the damn thing in... Is there a 27" 1440p that doesn't require dual dvi? I'm willing to bet there isn't due to bandwidth requirements...
> 
> Is there anyone out there running (3) 1440p @ 120Hz? Time to hunt..


The Tru 10 version or w.e has HDMI, but doesnt OC.


----------



## Captaincaveman

yeah, kinda sucks. but I am not that fussed about that.
usually don't play games across all 3 monitors, more of a multiboxer. so (for example) 1 diablo 3 windowed opened on one oc-able monitor, 3 small windowed on another oc-able monitor and the one that's running on 60hz i use for browser or even to watch some stuff while playing (yes, diablo is that easy







)


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Thanks! That sucks man, why the hell can't I just plug the damn thing in... Is there a 27" 1440p that doesn't require dual dvi? I'm willing to bet there isn't due to bandwidth requirements...
> 
> Is there anyone out there running (3) 1440p @ 120Hz? Time to hunt..


Not that this helps for your particular case but Nvidia surround with tri-sli lets you plug 1 monitor into 1 DVI port on each card.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Thanks! That sucks man, why the hell can't I just plug the damn thing in... Is there a 27" 1440p that doesn't require dual dvi? I'm willing to bet there isn't due to bandwidth requirements...
> 
> Is there anyone out there running (3) 1440p @ 120Hz? Time to hunt..


One of mine only goes to 110Hz, but I usually keep them at 96hz anyway. Again, this is with Nvidia, so doesn't help you much.


----------



## SeanEboy

Thanks for the input, pun intended..

I'm basically only a battlefield gamer, so I'd love to have all working.. Especially considering I'm running portrait instead of landscape. I find that tall windows/screens are a lot more useful to me... Should probably try out landscape sometime.


----------



## Zahix

Guys, I'm about to choose between a Yamakasi Catleap 2B extreme or a Glossy Qnix Qx2710 evo II (single input). I plan to use it for games mostly therefore I'm going to overclock it. Give me your opinions please!

The only advantages I know of the Catleap over the Qnix are the ability to handle OC without noticeable side effects(gamma shift, panel uniformity, colors... etc) and the slightly faster response (less blur,lag). Correct me if I'm wrong or missing something.

I don't have any information about the recent glossy Qnix evo2 if has a better panel than the usual Qnix. So if anyone have tried it, please elaborate how good it is









Feedback is much appreciated! Ty


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> Guys, I'm about to choose between a Yamakasi Catleap 2B extreme or a Glossy Qnix Qx2710 evo II (single input). I plan to use it for games mostly therefore I'm going to overclock it. Give me your opinions please!
> 
> The only advantages I know of the Catleap over the Qnix are the ability to handle OC without noticeable side effects(gamma shift, panel uniformity, colors... etc) and the slightly faster response (less blur,lag). Correct me if I'm wrong or missing something.
> 
> I don't have any information about the recent glossy Qnix evo2 if has a better panel than the usual Qnix. So if anyone have tried it, please elaborate how good it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feedback is much appreciated! Ty


I got two X-Star DP2710s from dream-seller recently, both glossy and with the newer 2013 panel. Both overclock to 110hz without any issues at all and look glorious. No dead pixels and no lightbleed whatsoever - Adam


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

After reading the entire Qnix thread and Yamakasi threads, along with every review I can find on both, I think the LG based monitors are ever so slightly a safer bet. If something were to go wrong, they are easier to replace parts on, and easier to find parts for. Out of the box, I do believe the Qnix is ever so slightly more eye popping though, all based on what I have read. The LG panels that overclock are based on a certified LG design, however the Qnix/Xstar brand has electronics based on the sole design by DisplayLand INC (who is that?).

For me, what matters most is reliability and the ability for me to do a quick repair if it suddenly stopped working. We can buy parts for the LG based monitors much faster, and slightly cheaper. Thus I can have backup parts already sitting here, just in case. With that said, you can also purchase parts for the X-Star brands as well, but only one source that I know of exists currently.

EDIT: And umm, I thought I was posting in the Yamakasi thread, lmao. Sorry...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rb3412*
> 
> Hey guys, really need some help here. I had my qnix overclocked at 96hz and recently, I updated my nVidia drivers and then when i tried overclocking it, in the nvidia control panel, nothing was displayed. I went to custom resolution and tried to overclockit at 96 hz, it didnt work. then i tried to overclock just at 60 hz and it didnt work either. Screen is going crazy with blue and green lines. Now i cant even turn on my computer without these lines and im barely able to do anything on the screen. However, in safe mode, its working perfectly fine. Is there a way I could possibly reset the qnix back to square 1 and then try to overclock? I did unpatch the nvidia clocker before i updated my drivers and patched it again after driver update. My graphics card is gtx 780. Any help would be highly appreciated.
> 
> P.S. The nvidia driver i was trying to update is 344.11 and when i used Nvidia pixel clock patcher, it said sli limit 2 not found. However, This was not an issue before.
> 
> EDIT: I just did a system restore and it works perfectly fine now however I would like to know what I would have to do if I want to update my nVidia drivers.


After updating drivers you need to reapply the nvidia pixel clock patch


----------



## dogma1138

Here is my color profile calibrated with the built-in windows calibration tools and my eyes.
Should work on 60-96hz with 50-100% brightness without any color skewing, it's calibrated around a 6500K cool white color preference try it out might surprise you.
https://truck.it/p/qC_rmGKWc1


----------



## JMattes

Ebay offers square trade for $50 for a year...
worth it?


----------



## Sweetsixteam

Just picked one of these up, and i have to say i'm very pleased! I used some profiles from someone on here and it looks great at 120hz, thanks for the help overclocking it Toasty

Edit, ive settled at 110hz


----------



## Slickshooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Ebay offers square trade for $50 for a year...
> worth it?


I got it, but it feels like I was shortchanged. Look at all these provisions: http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/pdf/us/warranty/squaretrade%20full%20service%20agreement_us.pdf

What the hell is actually covered?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickshooter*
> 
> I got it, but it feels like I was shortchanged. Look at all these provisions: http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/pdf/us/warranty/squaretrade%20full%20service%20agreement_us.pdf
> 
> What the hell is actually covered?


I read somewhere that it is not worth it, and they flat out refused any warranty for someone else on this monitor. Something to do with being from Korea? lol

If you want Qnix and a decent extended warranty that actually matters, then I think IPSLEDMonitors is the only way to go. Just hope they are around for the three years the warranty is good for, lol.


----------



## JMattes

So basically pass.... Thanks for advising.. hope I dont have problems.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sweetsixteam*
> 
> Just picked one of these up, and i have to say i'm very pleased! I used some profiles from someone on here and it looks great at 120hz, thanks for the help overclocking it Toasty
> 
> Edit, ive settled at 110hz


Settings for 117Hz still under the max pixel clock the monitor is rated for.
Sure it isn't evenly divisible by anything but neither is 110.
_Not that I have ever been able to tell a difference personally from 120Hz and 117Hz._

Just posting in-case you wanted to get max performance from the monitor.


----------



## Captaincaveman

So what's the verdict on adapters? can you OC monitors connected using one?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> So what's the verdict on adapters? can you OC monitors connected using one?


My testing with Nvidia shows that you can, but not very high. Above 90Hz I got frame skipping.


----------



## Captaincaveman

how do you add refresh rates to monitor with nvidia? do you use CRU same as us AMD people?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> how do you add refresh rates to monitor with nvidia? do you use CRU same as us AMD people?


No, you don't need CRU, You can just use Nvidia Control Panel (for the newer GTX600 series and above).


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> No, you don't need CRU, You can just use Nvidia Control Panel (for the newer GTX600 series and above).


No patch needed as well.


----------



## OkanG

Really considering the Qnix qx2710 at this point. I have a 970, plenty of power to run games









What are the differences between these?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xqnik+qx2710&_nkw=qnik+qx2710&_sacat=0

And I'm guessing I need to buy an AC adapter seperately since I live in Denmark, right?

EDIT: Found the X-star dp2710 as well, didn't know they had them on the UK Ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=x-star&_from=R40%7CR40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l2632.R2.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xx-star+d&_nkw=x-star+dp2710&_sacat=162497

What are the pros and cons of both? Should I be afraid of dead pixels, and things alike?


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Really considering the Qnix qx2710 at this point. I have a 970, plenty of power to run games
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are the differences between these?
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xqnik+qx2710&_nkw=qnik+qx2710&_sacat=0
> 
> And I'm guessing I need to buy an AC adapter seperately since I live in Denmark, right?
> 
> EDIT: Found the X-star dp2710 as well, didn't know they had them on the UK Ebay.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=x-star&_from=R40%7CR40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l2632.R2.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xx-star+d&_nkw=x-star+dp2710&_sacat=162497
> 
> What are the pros and cons of both? Should I be afraid of dead pixels, and things alike?


Well the difference between the varies Ebay listings are the True 10 and Evolution II models. The True 10 has multiple display inputs like HDMI and DVI-D, if you want to game with it I would recommend the Evolution II model as it is a DVI-D only model, but can be overclocked. Most units get 96hz to 120hz.

You also have your Pixel Perfect units which is the seller trying to get to get more $$ out of you by guaranteeing a maximum amount of possible dead pixels. Some say its BS.. most recent purchases I've seen made here were pixel perfect and no dead pixels are reported.

As for the X-Star it is basically the same unit. QNIX are just more commonly known.

I am new to this section and thread.. maybe 2 weeks, but I've learned some I guess so any Vets can step in and help answer or give me the nod of approval that would be cool. I am not yet a member of the club, but should be soon!


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Well the difference between the varies Ebay listings are the True 10 and Evolution II models. The True 10 has multiple display inputs like HDMI and DVI-D, if you want to game with it I would recommend the Evolution II model as it is a DVI-D only model, but can be overclocked. Most units get 96hz to 120hz.
> 
> You also have your Pixel Perfect units which is the seller trying to get to get more $$ out of you by guaranteeing a maximum amount of possible dead pixels. Some say its BS.. most recent purchases I've seen made here were pixel perfect and no dead pixels are reported.
> 
> As for the X-Star it is basically the same unit. QNIX are just more commonly known.
> 
> I am new to this section and thread.. maybe 2 weeks, but I've learned some I guess so any Vets can step in and help answer or give me the nod of approval that would be cool. I am not yet a member of the club, but should be soon!


Nice to know about the overclocking, I guess the Evolution II model is my only option, as overclocking is the main reason I'm getting this monitor.

189 pounds with no postage fees is just too good to pass up if I end up not getting any dead pixels. But I guess that's the high risk/high reward nature of these monitors


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> 189 pounds with no postage fees is just too good to pass up if I end up not getting any dead pixels. But I guess that's the high risk/high reward nature of these monitors


Several thoughts come to mind here. One, does Denmark have a trade agreement with Korea? If not, you may be hit with a import fee of some kind, usually based on the value declared by the seller at the time of shipment. And actually, X-Star/DisplayLand INC is the manufacturer of Qnix, but the only thing I can see different is the brand name label on the monitor and the box it comes in, lol.

*This is purely a guess*, but I think Qnix were first introduced as the brand that DisplayLand wanted to use for export (hence why its more popular), and X-Star is the name brand they wanted to keep for themselves, probably for no more reason than to make it easier on the paperwork and any possible recall situation. I just think the sellers, which are obviously 3rd parties, were not so good at keeping it all contained and started selling both to anyone worldwide and now DisplayLand no longer cares... LOL, that is my not so educated guess as to why Qnix is a more popular name, when it is manufactured by X-Star...


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Several thoughts come to mind here. One, does Denmark have a trade agreement with Korea? If not, you may be hit with a import fee of some kind, usually based on the value declared by the seller at the time of shipment. And actually, X-Star/DisplayLand INC is the manufacturer of Qnix, but the only thing I can see different is the brand name label on the monitor and the box it comes in, lol.
> 
> *This is purely a guess*, but I think Qnix were first introduced as the brand that DisplayLand wanted to use for export (hence why its more popular), and X-Star is the name brand they wanted to keep for themselves, probably for no more reason than to make it easier on the paperwork and any possible recall situation. I just think the sellers, which are obviously 3rd parties, were not so good at keeping it all contained and started selling both to anyone worldwide and now DisplayLand no longer cares... LOL, that is my not so educated guess as to why Qnix is a more popular name, when it is manufactured by X-Star...


Well, considering I might have to pay extra when it comes over the borders, it still won't be as expensive as buying the equivalent of a more known brand, especially considering that it'll overclock to 96Hz or more. Sometimes the borders send a bill before you can pick the package up, sometimes not. If they don't great, if they do, It'll still be cheaper than getting a 27" 1440p IPS panel here in Denmark









But what about adapters? What should I look for when buying a new one? Will a generic one in the electronics department of a store work?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> Guys, I'm about to choose between a Yamakasi Catleap 2B extreme or a Glossy Qnix Qx2710 evo II (single input). I plan to use it for games mostly therefore I'm going to overclock it. Give me your opinions please!
> 
> The only advantages I know of the Catleap over the Qnix are the ability to handle OC without noticeable side effects(gamma shift, panel uniformity, colors... etc) and the slightly faster response (less blur,lag). Correct me if I'm wrong or missing something.
> 
> I don't have any information about the recent glossy Qnix evo2 if has a better panel than the usual Qnix. So if anyone have tried it, please elaborate how good it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feedback is much appreciated! Ty
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> I got two X-Star DP2710s from dream-seller recently, both glossy and with the newer 2013 panel. Both overclock to 110hz without any issues at all and look glorious. No dead pixels and no lightbleed whatsoever - Adam
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> After reading the entire Qnix thread and Yamakasi threads, along with every review I can find on both, I think the LG based monitors are ever so slightly a safer bet. If something were to go wrong, they are easier to replace parts on, and easier to find parts for. Out of the box, I do believe the Qnix is ever so slightly more eye popping though, all based on what I have read. The LG panels that overclock are based on a certified LG design, however the Qnix/Xstar brand has electronics based on the sole design by DisplayLand INC (who is that?).
> 
> For me, what matters most is reliability and the ability for me to do a quick repair if it suddenly stopped working. We can buy parts for the LG based monitors much faster, and slightly cheaper. Thus I can have backup parts already sitting here, just in case. With that said, you can also purchase parts for the X-Star brands as well, but only one source that I know of exists currently.
> 
> EDIT: And umm, I thought I was posting in the Yamakasi thread, lmao. Sorry...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

@Zahix ... your pretty right on except there has been no verifiable differences reported in the input lag between the 2 models at stock or overclocked ... AND basically the Cat2B is GLOSSY ... QNIX PLS is MATTE screen finishes ...
I'm still surprised at the amount of users that prefer the Matte over Glossy as glossy is a slightly sharper picture but if glare is a problem then the Matte does it's job quite well without an overly offensive AG coating.

@adam ... I'm waiting to see if more people like yourself, order a glossy @ appx $350 and "consistently" get a true glossy like you did, before we can reliably recommend a true Glossy QNIX PLS at that price









I also agree with Skorpion, I think the serviceability of the CAT2B is a big plus! ... +R

*BUT* .... the real downside to the Cat2B is it's price, it looks like it has gone back up ...
*+$200* ... from green-sum the only reliable vendor, not as bad as the $700-$800 previously but considerably more than a QNIX ...
See *HERE* ... unless someone finds different please link ...

*EDIT:* So here are my thoughts as of today on the Cat2B vs QNIX PLS ...
As many of you know I'd prefer the Cat2B because of it's true Glossy panel, if it overclocked in the same (96Hz-120Hz) range as reliably as a QNIX does. I almost sold my "golden" QNIX to buy the Cat2B because the price had come down to the QNIX's $350 range ...
*BUT* it seems most of the Cat2B's people recently ordered are not overclocking consistently even some at 96Hz








Is it just the "SE" serial # unit's with different (inferior?) components causing the poor performance, red dot artifacts along with the traditional green scan lines or has something else changed? Maybe a bad batch of LVDS cables? Time will tell if the Cat2B makes a comeback and reliably OC's like in the past AND brings their prices down again







...
In the mean time I'm really glad I still have my QNIX and with the recent Cat2B problems ...
I'd say the QNIX takes the lead in consistent overclocking reliability!









Read more about the recent Cat2B purchases *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sweetsixteam*
> 
> Just picked one of these up, and i have to say i'm very pleased! I used some profiles from someone on here and it looks great at 120hz, thanks for the help overclocking it Toasty
> 
> Edit, ive settled at 110hz


Very nice! Can you tell us who you bought from (model link?) Did you use Color Sustainer to correct gamma shift? ... You might also find some useful info in Lawson's OC thread *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> how do you add refresh rates to monitor with nvidia? do you use CRU same as us AMD people?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> No, you don't need CRU, You can just use Nvidia Control Panel (for the newer GTX600 series and above).
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> No patch needed as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

ALL correct







... read more about OC'ing *HERE* ...

*@rb3412* ... all the above applies in your case also, single 780 ... no CRU, no patch needed









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Really considering the Qnix qx2710 at this point. I have a 970, plenty of power to run games
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are the differences between these?
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xqnik+qx2710&_nkw=qnik+qx2710&_sacat=0
> 
> And I'm guessing I need to buy an AC adapter seperately since I live in Denmark, right?
> 
> EDIT: Found the X-star dp2710 as well, didn't know they had them on the UK Ebay.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=x-star&_from=R40%7CR40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l2632.R2.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xx-star+d&_nkw=x-star+dp2710&_sacat=162497
> 
> What are the pros and cons of both? Should I be afraid of dead pixels, and things alike?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Well the difference between the varies Ebay listings are the True 10 and Evolution II models. The True 10 has multiple display inputs like HDMI and DVI-D, if you want to game with it I would recommend the Evolution II model as it is a DVI-D only model, but can be overclocked. Most units get 96hz to 120hz.
> 
> You also have your Pixel Perfect units which is the seller trying to get to get more $$ out of you by guaranteeing a maximum amount of possible dead pixels. Some say its BS.. most recent purchases I've seen made here were pixel perfect and no dead pixels are reported.
> 
> As for the X-Star it is basically the same unit. QNIX are just more commonly known.
> 
> I am new to this section and thread.. maybe 2 weeks, but I've learned some I guess so any Vets can step in and help answer or give me the nod of approval that would be cool. I am not yet a member of the club, but should be soon!
Click to expand...

@JMattes well done +R







couple suggestions ... varies = various








They are all "Evolution II" models ... so the overclockable (96Hz-120Hz) short title should say QNIX PLS single-input








Also add the more info/proof link in the OP under [Monitor Information - 1st time buyer tips!] or direct link *HERE* ...


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> But what about adapters? What should I look for when buying a new one? Will a generic one in the electronics department of a store work?


Adapters? Do you have a fairly recent video card with a DVI port? Do you have a DVI-D (Dual Link) cable (should come with one anyway)? I am not sure what adapter you will need, as that depends on your setup and needs.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Adapters? Do you have a fairly recent video card with a DVI port? Do you have a DVI-D (Dual Link) cable (should come with one anyway)? I am not sure what adapter you will need, as that depends on your setup and needs.


I think I used the wrong words. What I meant was whether I should buy an extra power outlet, as a UK one might not be compatible with the power outlets here in Denmark. Not sure what they use in the UK.

Other than that, I've read a few people getting better, higher quality power adapters which made their monitors overclock higher and more reliably.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> I think I used the wrong words. What I meant was whether I should buy an extra power outlet, as a UK one might not be compatible with the power outlets here in Denmark. Not sure what they use in the UK.
> 
> Other than that, I've read a few people getting better, higher quality power adapters which made their monitors overclock higher and more reliably.


Oh, yeah you might want to wait because some of the monitors come with a Universal adapter in the box that works with all countries power sockets... Not sure of its quality though, lol...


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @Zahix ... your pretty right on except there has been no verifiable differences reported in the input lag between the 2 models at stock or overclocked ... AND basically the Cat2B is GLOSSY ... QNIX PLS is MATTE screen finishes ...


What do you mean by "QNIX PLS is MATTE"? Isn't this QNIX true glossy? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c


----------



## Sweetsixteam

Very nice! Can you tell us who you bought from (model link?) Did you use Color Sustainer to correct gamma shift? ... You might also find some useful info in Lawson's OC thread *HERE* ...
ALL correct







... read more about OC'ing *HERE* ...

*@rb3412* ... all the above applies in your case also, single 780 ... no CRU, no patch needed








@JMattes well done +R







couple suggestions ... varies = various








They are all "Evolution II" models ... so the overclockable (96Hz-120Hz) short title should say QNIX PLS single-input








Also add the more info/proof link in the OP under [Monitor Information - 1st time buyer tips!] or direct link *HERE* ...[/quote]

I bought it on an auction from ebay, tested to go to 120hz and no pixel issues. And it was as advertised. Lawsons color correction for 110 is what im using currently.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> What do you mean by "QNIX PLS is MATTE"? Isn't this QNIX true glossy? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c


Hard to say for sure. I'm guessing it is matte with tempered glass.


----------



## NASzi

I just received my QNIX QX2710 in the mail today. The power adaptor is similar to a laptop power adaptor. The male end that plugs into a wall is a 2 prong design however included in the box was a 2 prong to 120V adaptor for USA in the box. The good news is you have a standard power supply cable lying around, it'll plug into the brick directly so you can bypass the whole 2 prong adapter thing, this is probably the route i'm going to go.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I just received my QNIX QX2710 in the mail today. The power adaptor is similar to a laptop power adaptor. The male end that plugs into a wall is a 2 prong design however included in the box was a 2 prong to 120V adaptor for USA in the box. The good news is you have a standard power supply cable lying around, it'll plug into the brick directly so you can bypass the whole 2 prong adapter thing, this is probably the route i'm going to go.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You are a hero. Thank you! Guess I will just buy the monitor to start off with


----------



## NASzi

Glad I could help : )


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> What do you mean by "QNIX PLS is MATTE"? Isn't this QNIX true glossy? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c


This is a new listing, glossy Qnix/X-Stars have not been available for 6+ months aside from 1 or 2 for 600-700$.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> This is a new listing, glossy Qnix/X-Stars have not been available for 6+ months aside from 1 or 2 for 600-700$.


So this could be the real deal then?


----------



## JMattes

I am a bit lost on this glossy vs matte discussion..

you mean the display panel is glossy? haha


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> So this could be the real deal then?


i asked accessories whole if it is glossy or uses glass as well as if the monitor uses LED PWM Dimming or is Flicker Free (PWM Side Effects). I know someone who asked a seller, (storywithstory) and they claimed only the pixel perfect Qnix's are PWM Free


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> i asked accessories whole if it is glossy or uses glass as well as if the monitor uses LED PWM Dimming or is Flicker Free (PWM Side Effects). I know someone who asked a seller, (storywithstory) and they claimed only the pixel perfect Qnix's are PWM Free


Yeah, sometimes it seems like they just pull stuff out of their rear ends. Like maybe they didn't know what PWM was.


----------



## Sweetsixteam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> This is a new listing, glossy Qnix/X-Stars have not been available for 6+ months aside from 1 or 2 for 600-700$.


Are glossy more sought after? I got the matte finish and i'm glad i did.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sweetsixteam*
> 
> Are glossy more sought after? I got the matte finish and i'm glad i did.


They are because the colors *pop* more without the anti-glare film. I'm unclear why they should be more expensive. I think it was a supply/demand thing.


----------



## OkanG

Thank you for the buyer's guide/tutorial/link









At first glance I noticed the single input monitors are the ones with 300cd/m^2, and the 350cd/m^2 versions are the multi input monitors, which can't be overclocked past 85Hz, right? I think it's a little confusing to look at with so many different item descriptions, where most of them are the same, or at least very close.

I guess the phrases I have to steer clear of are "350cd/m^2" and Multi Ture 10 or whatever it's called









It seems like there are no glossy panels on ebay.co.uk either, but it's fine since my secondary monitor will be a matte panel as well







Can't wait to get paid, I'm really excited to try this thing!

EDIT: Just kidding, they have the qx2710 Glossy version in stock! Does it make a big difference in picture quality, or should I just go with the Matte version?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> What do you mean by "QNIX PLS is MATTE"? Isn't this QNIX true glossy? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> i asked accessories whole if it is glossy or uses glass as well as if the monitor uses LED PWM Dimming or is Flicker Free (PWM Side Effects). I know someone who asked a seller, (storywithstory) and they claimed only the pixel perfect Qnix's are PWM Free
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yeah, sometimes it seems like they just pull stuff out of their rear ends. Like maybe they didn't know what PWM was.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

accessorieswhole has been notorious in the past for putting Tempered Glass over a Matte and calling it a "Glossy" panel and what you got was the WORST of 2 worlds if indeed you expected a true "Glossy" panel









ADD in the ridiculous reply to MenacingTuba's inquiry ["only pixel perfect is PWM free"] and I wouldn't trust them as far as I could spit right now!!!








I wouldn't buy that model thinking its a true glossy without significant reproducible documentation and a guaranteed return if it's not a true glossy from accessorieswhole







A statement to the fact that if you disassemble the panel you won't find tempered glass "taped" in there and if you do accessorieswhole pays the return shipping and you get "exactly" what you ordered in return a true "Glossy"!!!
Some can tell the difference between glossy and tempered glass by feel, but to confirm if tempered glass is on your panel you'd have to disassemble it take a pic and say ***?

Trust us, or do an advanced search with MenacingTuba or my handles regarding tempered glass vs glossy









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sweetsixteam*
> 
> Very nice! Can you tell us who you bought from (model link?) Did you use Color Sustainer to correct gamma shift? ... You might also find some useful info in Lawson's OC thread *HERE* ...
> 
> I bought it on an auction from ebay, tested to go to 120hz and no pixel issues. And it was as advertised. Lawsons color correction for 110 is what im using currently.


Welcome by the way







... you got a heck of a deal from ... bftswain? I follow the ebay PP auctions regularly ... It's a rock solid way to go if you properly inquire the right questions, which essentially is your guarantee under the ebay buyer protection plan









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I just received my QNIX QX2710 in the mail today. The power adaptor is similar to a laptop power adaptor. The male end that plugs into a wall is a 2 prong design however included in the box was a 2 prong to 120V adaptor for USA in the box. The good news is you have a standard power supply cable lying around, it'll plug into the brick directly so you can bypass the whole 2 prong adapter thing, this is probably the route i'm going to go.


Good stuff +R ... would have been perfect if you also had included the std 3 prong power cable (USA) in there!
I also believe this is an important precaution for US users to take for longevity as opposed to the cheap 2 prong adapters








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Thank you for the buyer's guide/tutorial/link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At first glance I noticed the single input monitors are the ones with 300cd/m^2, and the 350cd/m^2 versions are the multi input monitors, which can't be overclocked past 85Hz, right? I think it's a little confusing to look at with so many different item descriptions, where most of them are the same, or at least very close.
> 
> I guess the phrases I have to steer clear of are "350cd/m^2" and Multi Ture 10 or whatever it's called
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems like there are no glossy panels on ebay.co.uk either, but it's fine since my secondary monitor will be a matte panel as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to get paid, I'm really excited to try this thing!
> 
> EDIT: Just kidding, they have the qx2710 Glossy version in stock! Does it make a big difference in picture quality, or should I just go with the Matte version?


Right ... when quickly scanning ebay adds, simplest thing to look for is PLS in the title ... avoid anything with multi-input (AH-VA panel)
I'd prefer the glossy at a comparable price, but read my comments above or do the advanced search mentioned above +glossy vs matte


----------



## electro2u

I got a straight answer from GreenSum once, but it seemed like to me over a couple weeks back and forth (they only respond to your questions once per weekday) they had multiple people answering questions. Some were more knowledgeable than others.

Anyway GreenSum told me that there are multiple listings with different prices for certain identical monitors because they are based on shipping availability. The cheapest option for a group of listings like that is the one that ships to countries that have trade agreements or are just not long distance. The most expensive can go anywhere--like Africa (might be hard to get them to deliver to Sierra Leone right now







)


----------



## Sweetsixteam

Welcome by the way







... you got a heck of a deal from ... bftswain? I follow the ebay PP auctions regularly ... It's a rock solid way to go if you properly inquire the right questions, which essentially is your guarantee under the ebay buyer protection plan









Thats hilarious, yeah i did get it from bftswain. Thanks for the welcome.









I had it shipped across the border and brought it in myself (I'm Canadian) and happily they didnt make me pay tax or duty on it.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Right ... when quickly scanning ebay adds, simplest thing to look for is PLS in the title ... avoid anything with multi-input (AH-VA panel)
> I'd prefer the glossy at a comparable price, but read my comments above or do the advanced search mentioned above +glossy vs matte


Okay, thank you very much. Did a quick Google search, more people are stating that the picture quality is very similar in them, so I guess I'm just gonna go with the matte version







My OCD will probably freak out if one monitor is matte and the other is glossy


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Okay, thank you very much. Did a quick Google search, more people are stating that the picture quality is very similar in them, so I guess I'm just gonna go with the matte version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My OCD will probably freak out if one monitor is matte and the other is glossy


I would like to add that i ordered 2 matte screens from dream-seller but received glossy screens instead, maybe message beforehand to make sure you really are getting what your paying for, this could have been a one off - Adam


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> I would like to add that i ordered 2 matte screens from dream-seller but received glossy screens instead, maybe message beforehand to make sure you really are getting what your paying for, this could have been a one off - Adam


Noted, thanks for the tip


----------



## Sempre

I want to say this for people who don't know about the matte coating of the qnix/x-star monitors.

Well,you know the matte Dell/HP matte monitors that you frequently see at work offices/libraries/schools etc...?

The qnix/xstar matte coating are NOTHING like that. It is a very light coating which does NOT produce that grain or glittery appearance of heavy coated monitors.

In fact, while it is technically true that glossy panels have a slightly better representation of colors, this is negated by the fact that glossy panels produce glare and reflections, so the advantage of of better colors is gone. Assuming you're in a well lit room.

I bought my matte Qnix when true glossy panels were at the same price range as matte ones and still went with the matte.

I'm not dissing on glossy panels. I'm just reassuring those who are hesitant of ending up with matte panels


----------



## Ovrclck

I know tempered glass is a close representation of glossy. The glare was annoying, especially when firing up Battlefield. Everything looks super crisp now. I can even have my blinds somewhat open now unlike before. Matte all the way.

Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> i asked accessories whole if it is glossy or uses glass as well as if the monitor uses LED PWM Dimming or is Flicker Free (PWM Side Effects). I know someone who asked a seller, (storywithstory) and they claimed only the pixel perfect Qnix's are PWM Free


Ty, I'll be waiting his reply.

@TomcatV Thanks for your input on the tempered glass scheme. I will be sure not to fall into it if I decide to go with a glossy Qnix.

Also guys, what do you think of this cheap listing of the Cat2B http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57&product_id=127 ?? can I trust this website??


----------



## pastuch

Is the Qnix 2710 still available? Please suggest a reputable reseller with affordable price. I bought one months ago and the resellers jacked their prices up.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pastuch*
> 
> Is the Qnix 2710 still available? Please suggest a reputable reseller with affordable price. I bought one months ago and the resellers jacked their prices up.


Is $350 OK?

http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/QNIX-Monitor-s/1513.htm


----------



## Ovrclck

Just for Giggles. I shot accessories an email if it's glossy or tempered over matte. Now I wait.


----------



## Cloudpost

uhh.. so i just opened up and installed my brand new qnix... its only displaying 1080x1920 in windows. When i press the menu it only shows 1080 as well. Is something wrong? Just updated my drivers and restarted computer and nada.

The colors also look very washed out. (playing ps4)

bought it from here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362611435?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudpost*
> 
> uhh.. so i just opened up and installed my brand new qnix... its only displaying 1080x1920 in windows. When i press the menu it only shows 1080 as well. Is something wrong?




Edit: Are you connecting it via DVI to your computer? HDMI maybe can't do 1440p


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam182*
> 
> I would like to add that i ordered 2 matte screens from dream-seller but received glossy screens instead, maybe message beforehand to make sure you really are getting what your paying for, this could have been a one off - Adam


Did you test both for PWM or just the one? Curious to know if they both use it. You know what to do







http://testufo.com/#test=blurtrail


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Are you connecting it via DVI to your computer? HDMI maybe can't do 1440p


HDMI can do 1440p


----------



## Ovrclck

Accessorieswhole got back to me already. Looks like those glossys listed are "true glossy" and not tempered glass.

Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> HDMI can do 1440p


HDMI 1.3 can do up to 2560x1600, but HDMI 1.2 and below are limited to 1920x1200/1080. I'm not saying that is your problem though.

I wish they would stop updating these things, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 etc, and just make something already that is several times greater than we actually need and then let it be, lol. Something like Thunderbolt 2.0, not one but two 20Gbps channels. It would take me another 20 years to need higher bandwidth than that, lol. Now that is forward thinking...


----------



## SeanEboy

FWIW, MHO, YMMV, DMV, DOHC, STD, STI, EVO... I bought (3), yes, three, Qnix from Excellent Castle.. And, I received (3) perfect panels. Not a single dead pixel, no overseas plug bull****, white foam wrap, bubble, etc, just like all the rest of them. Not sure if he's still in the game, but I'm satisfied. I just wish I knew I needed that damn adapter to go eyefinity. I'm just pissed that I still have to drop another $100.... It's like.. If only I waited 6 months, and saved myself $1100 over that friggen $100.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Accessorieswhole got back to me already. Looks like those glossys listed are "true glossy" and not tempered glass.
> 
> Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


I'd be down with that idea!
I wish I could get display port only models instead of DVI only.


----------



## NASzi

so I think i made a mistake guys, I unknowingly purchased the TRUE10 version of the Qnix QX2710 which if i'm not mistaken, is not overclockable because of the onboard chip to support the extra hdmi input. can anyone clarify this?

I've tried to overclock and i'm getting frame skipping on any setting higher than 60 Hertz.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> so I think i made a mistake guys, I unknowingly purchased the TRUE10 version of the Qnix QX2710 which if i'm not mistaken, is not overclockable because of the onboard chip to support the extra hdmi input. can anyone clarify this?
> 
> I've tried to overclock and i'm getting frame skipping on any setting higher than 60 Hertz.


Yes, unfortunately the True 10 and ANY multi input QNIX monitor cannot be overclocked.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yes, unfortunately the True 10 and ANY multi input QNIX monitor cannot be overclocked.


Darnit!! At least I got a good deal at only $280.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Darnit!! At least I got a good deal at only $280.


It would have been a good idea to read through some of the thread, or even the OP, since it was mentioned, oh only about 500 times or more here. The OP tells you this instantly, in bold text, when you expand the "Overclocking Guide section". Some will overclock though, but not without frame skipping, which defeats the purpose of overclocking. Lol, my Dell overclocks but there is ALWAYS frame skipping even at 60hz.

Still though, for $280 and 1440p PLS @ 60hz it should be considered a great deal


----------



## kennyparker1337

The reason to get the DVI only version.


----------



## ebhsimon

For some reason UFO Test: Frame Skipping Checker only shows 60Hz for me. But I do have 110hz enabled and it does look a lot smoother in game... Weird.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebhsimon*
> 
> For some reason UFO Test: Frame Skipping Checker only shows 60Hz for me. But I do have 110hz enabled and it does look a lot smoother in game... Weird.


Internet explorer tops out at about 100hz. Try chrome or Firefox


----------



## ebhsimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Internet explorer tops out at about 100hz. Try chrome or Firefox


This is on chrome, I don't know why it doesn't work though. I patched my AMD drivers and set the custom profile in CRU and then enabled it in CCC. It shouldn't matter even though it looks smooth, but I'm still curious why it doesn't work.


----------



## electro2u

Let's explore. Win7 I believe aero needs to be enabled.


----------



## ebhsimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Let's explore. Win7 I believe aero needs to be enabled.


I'm on Windows 8.1, so there's not really any aero. The ufo test used to work for me, but I can't remember if it stopped when I upgraded to 8.1.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Accesorieswhole replied to my PWM query and claims the new glossy Qnix they tested uses PWM, but ignored my question about the Qnix using glass vs. actually being glossy.


----------



## electro2u

Bizarre. Maybe they think you want pwm.


----------



## Zahix

Accessorieswhole replied to my message:
"It is true glossy.
It is not tempered glass monitor~"


----------



## titan2620

Hello everyone,

The QNIX 2710 Evolution II I received had two long scratches on it (only visible with a flashlight), two dead pixels, and isn't centered in the frame correctly (It's too far on the bottom left side) and came shipped without the plastic screen protector on it indicating previous use (which they admitted as their 'testing' of the monitor). I contacted the seller with these issues for a refund/exchange and this was their response:

Hi

Sorry for your inconvenience.
We tested the monitor before shipment and there was no such issue.
Otherwise, we wouldn't send it to you.
We wear gloves and use micro fiber cloth to avoid any damage during testing the monitor.
We think it was caused on delivery.

How about we make a partial refund to compensate it?

We will wait for your reply.
Thank you.

I paid $340 for this monitor and am wondering if I should take the discount (provided it overclocks stable at 96hz) and if so, how much of a discount should I settle for?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titan2620*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> The QNIX 2710 Evolution II I received had two long scratches on it (only visible with a flashlight), two dead pixels, and isn't centered in the frame correctly (It's too far on the bottom left side) and came shipped without the plastic screen protector on it indicating previous use (which they admitted as their 'testing' of the monitor). I contacted the seller with these issues for a refund/exchange and this was their response:
> 
> Hi
> 
> Sorry for your inconvenience.
> We tested the monitor before shipment and there was no such issue.
> Otherwise, we wouldn't send it to you.
> We wear gloves and use micro fiber cloth to avoid any damage during testing the monitor.
> We think it was caused on delivery.
> 
> How about we make a partial refund to compensate it?
> 
> We will wait for your reply.
> Thank you.
> 
> I paid $340 for this monitor and am wondering if I should take the discount (provided it overclocks stable at 96hz) and if so, how much of a discount should I settle for?


what a load of bull. Did it come in the box? they put that thing in the box, so if the box was fine, then shipping didn't cause it. Scratches and dead pixels, I wouldn't settle for a partial refund, but that's just me.


----------



## titan2620

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> what a load of bull. Did it come in the box? they put that thing in the box, so if the box was fine, then shipping didn't cause it. Scratches and dead pixels, I wouldn't settle for a partial refund, but that's just me.


It did come in the box, but it didn't come with a screen protector. I think they scratched it and couldn't see it. I couldn't see if without a bright flashlight. Pretty sure I'm going to just get a full refund and try to get away without paying for return shipping. Then I'll buy a new one that isn't 'tested' and shipped improperly from someone else. If they force me to pay anything for shipping I will leave poor reviews on their amazon and newegg accounts saying that they tested the monitor and shipped it improperly with scratches and forced me to pay return shipping. Pretty sure that's the way to go, if anyone else has any suggestions let me know.


----------



## Adam182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titan2620*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I paid $340 for this monitor and am wondering if I should take the discount (provided it overclocks stable at 96hz) and if so, how much of a discount should I settle for?


Just ask for something rediculous, that way you can haggle down. If you start low theres no way of getting a good offer. They offered me $5 per monitor for sending me glossy instead of matte, in the end i settled for $30 because i actually really like glossy but just didnt realise it - Adam


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> It would have been a good idea to read through some of the thread, or even the OP, since it was mentioned, oh only about 500 times or more here. The OP tells you this instantly, in bold text, when you expand the "Overclocking Guide section". Some will overclock though, but not without frame skipping, which defeats the purpose of overclocking. Lol, my Dell overclocks but there is ALWAYS frame skipping even at 60hz.
> 
> Still though, for $280 and 1440p PLS @ 60hz it should be considered a great deal


I did my research, I just rushed and didn't realize it was the dual input monitor. I bought this along with a 980 at the same exact time, so when I saw the 980 was in stock, I was like OOO CRAP let me hurry up and order the monitor too lol


----------



## timcee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peelypeel*
> 
> NO idea if i'm allowed to do this, but I figure why not.
> 
> Selling my brand new X-STAR DP2710, from UK.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-QHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-UK-SELLER-/301359556747?


Thinking of buying this right now so in a bit of a rush! I've only done limited reading on the X-star just want to check that it's as good as overclocking as the qnix? I like the idea it's already in the UK and pixel perfect!!!

Thanks


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> FWIW, MHO, YMMV, DMV, DOHC, STD, STI, EVO... I bought (3), yes, three, Qnix from Excellent Castle.. And, I received (3) perfect panels. Not a single dead pixel, no overseas plug bull****, white foam wrap, bubble, etc, just like all the rest of them. Not sure if he's still in the game, but I'm satisfied. I just wish I knew I needed that damn adapter to go eyefinity. I'm just pissed that I still have to drop another $100.... It's like.. If only I waited 6 months, and saved myself $1100 over that friggen $100.


wait,why are u dropping another$100? on what? because im on the verge of doing triple displays,im so excited its my first time experiencing it. plus eyefinity is AMD,im about to get a 2nd GTX 580 for cheap since i dont wana upgrade to the new series due to money so i wil just get a 2nd 580 for SLI w/3x qnix 1440p. any recommendations? btw,what adapter are u talking about so i can be aware? thanks.


----------



## peelypeel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timcee*
> 
> Thinking of buying this right now so in a bit of a rush! I've only done limited reading on the X-star just want to check that it's as good as overclocking as the qnix? I like the idea it's already in the UK and pixel perfect!!!
> 
> Thanks


Hey, i'm the seller. I've been asked many times now by eBay peeps if it will overclock to 120hz. I have been unable to do it. I've got it to 96hz with all the colours looking correct, but frame skipping, and to 117hz with some odd colour patching and frame skipping. The highest un-skipping rate I've gotten it to is 80hz.

I realize this might stop you buying the monitor but id rather be honest with you than deceive you. That said, i'm really bad at overclocking, anything, so you or someone else might be able to get it to 120hz. or at least 96hz.


----------



## timcee

Sold!!! Thanks for your reply. I think it's worth the gamble as I've got somebody that wants one just for a desktop monitor if all else fails. Look forward to receiving it 

Thanks mate!


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> wait,why are u dropping another$100? on what? because im on the verge of doing triple displays,im so excited its my first time experiencing it. plus eyefinity is AMD,im about to get a 2nd GTX 580 for cheap since i dont wana upgrade to the new series due to money so i wil just get a 2nd 580 for SLI w/3x qnix 1440p. any recommendations? btw,what adapter are u talking about so i can be aware? thanks.


Well, as you know I'm AMD, and you're Nvidia.. But for AMD, despite the fact I have (4) effing video cards, all monitors must connect to top card. I have (3) Qnix DL DVI monitors.. There are only (2) DL DVI outs from the 290x. I need to buy an active adapter that will take my displayport out from card, and convert it to DL DVI for my third monitor. Get it? It's still a hell of a lot cheaper than getting displayport equipped monitors, etc, or at least it used to be. It's just more of the fact that I'm pissed I have to do it, it's my only oversight (aside from emptying my pockets), and it will affect overclockability of the monitor. I'll get over it... After dumping $7k on a damn computer, I'm a bit jaded..


----------



## battleaxe

subbing


----------



## desiromeo

Hi so I just received my Qnix monitor from Newegg sold by GN estore..It is dead on arrival







I pluuged it in and when plugging the power into the monitor a red light blinks for 1 sec right above the power button. Then when pressing the power button nothing happens. It does not turn on. None of the buttons work( I know only the power is supposed to). Any help? Ideas? I tried different outlets..I dont have a US power cord to try out. Seems to me the power button does not work?


----------



## Phantatsy

RMA it.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> Hi so I just received my Qnix monitor from Newegg sold by GN estore..It is dead on arrival
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I pluuged it in and when plugging the power into the monitor a red light blinks for 1 sec right above the power button. Then when pressing the power button nothing happens. It does not turn on. None of the buttons work( I know only the power is supposed to). Any help? Ideas? I tried different outlets..I dont have a US power cord to try out. Seems to me the power button does not work?


Immediately contact both Newegg and then the seller, before you start looking at other possibilities. The seller may give you permission to look inside the unit, but I would not do anything like that until you get permission. Otherwise, box it up and RMA it asap as the previous poster said.

Sorry you got a bad one. These are like eggs, at least one in a dozen seem to be broken...


----------



## desiromeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Immediately contact both Newegg and then the seller, before you start looking at other possibilities. The seller may give you permission to look inside the unit, but I would not do anything like that until you get permission. Otherwise, box it up and RMA it asap as the previous poster said.
> 
> Sorry you got a bad one. These are like eggs, at least one in a dozen seem to be broken...


This is so aggravating. Thanks for the reply. I am on the phone with newegg right now and getting an RMA but the seller charged a $50 restocking fee, which the rep said will be removed once the unit is received. I did sign up for newegg premier before I bought the unit. I also requested that they pay for next day shipping on the replacement, which the rep said he would do.

Side note- the box was pretty beat up and didnt have any foam wrapping around the box like ive seen on youtube of others unboxing. Also the damn unit seemed like a returned unit and not new, as it had blemishes on the bezel and the base was cracked up. Terrible experience. I had bought the pixel perfect one first for $13 more but then cancelled and just ordered the regular. Wish I hadnt changed my mind now..Oh well..hopefully the replacement gets here tomorrow, which I doubt since its already past 5pm here on the east coast. I even had to pay tax when buying from newegg because I wanted it to be a safer experience then going through ebay, and I get free 3 day shipping with premier.

edit- wow so now that I complained about the packaging they cancelled the RMA and claimed the delivery damaged it and has to go through that claim..I think ill just buy directly from korea and not deal with middle man newegg and also get charged tax.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> This is so aggravating. Thanks for the reply. I am on the phone with newegg right now and getting an RMA but the seller charged a $50 restocking fee, which the rep said will be removed once the unit is received. I did sign up for newegg premier before I bought the unit. I also requested that they pay for next day shipping on the replacement, which the rep said he would do.
> 
> Side note- the box was pretty beat up and didnt have any foam wrapping around the box like ive seen on youtube of others unboxing. Also the damn unit seemed like a returned unit and not new, as it had blemishes on the bezel and the base was cracked up. Terrible experience. I had bought the pixel perfect one first for $13 more but then cancelled and just ordered the regular. Wish I hadnt changed my mind now..Oh well..hopefully the replacement gets here tomorrow, which I doubt since its already past 5pm here on the east coast. I even had to pay tax when buying from newegg because I wanted it to be a safer experience then going through ebay, and I get free 3 day shipping with premier.


Yeah, well you have no clue what you would have gotten from eBay. It could have been a perfect monitor or a DOA as well, lol. Anyway sorry you're experiencing this.


----------



## desiromeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah, well you have no clue what you would have gotten from eBay. It could have been a perfect monitor or a DOA as well, lol. Anyway sorry you're experiencing this.


Does the monitor have to be plugged into the dvi port on graphics card? I did that too and it doesnt turn on when computer is turned on. Does the monitor have its own boot screen?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> Does the monitor have to be plugged into the dvi port on graphics card? I did that too and it doesnt turn on when computer is turned on. Does the monitor have its own boot screen?


I don't think monitor has to be plugged in, and I think DVI is hot pluggable anyway. I dont think it has any boot screen or logo screen of any kind, at least the bypass models probably do not.


----------



## funfordcobra

It's all lottery with these. They are all A- panels, so they were rejected by another manufacturer at some point for god knows what.

I'd actually say its 50/50 whether you get a good one or bad one. I consider mine good and it has about 20 dead pixels. Most will have at least one dead pixel and/or BLB. I've seen sellers reject returns on perfect pixel versions because they were not "bright pixels" or there were 5 or less. Some will take them back to avoid negative feedback.

I really like mine but it has a cluster of 20 or so dead pixels on the very bottom right of the screen where I keep my fraps. Obvious reason why it was a A- panel. Zero BLB and overclocked to 120 Hz with no timing reductions to the pixel clock so It's not worth returning.

Even with the dead pixels, I recommend trying your luck. Hopefully its just BLB and you can fix/break it yourself.


----------



## electro2u

The panels are rejected in batches. They test a sample number out of each palette and if the % of bad panels is high enough they reject the batch.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> It's all lottery with these. They are all A- panels, so they were rejected by another manufacturer at some point for god knows what.


LOL, precisely why I am building my own Yamakasi using a Grade A+ panel directly from HP. I think this thread has given me plenty of beta testing knowledge to know I don't like the product enough to trust it, haha.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> LOL, precisely why I am building my own Yamakasi using a Grade A+ panel directly from HP. I think this thread has given me plenty of beta testing knowledge to know I don't like the product enough to trust it, haha.


That's a good idea!


----------



## desiromeo

Is dream-seller a reputable seller on ebay? He is currently selling the monitor for $329.90. Im thinking about buying my replacement from him instead of re-ordering from Newegg...


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> Is dream-seller a reputable seller on ebay? He is currently selling the monitor for $329.90. Im thinking about buying my replacement from him instead of re-ordering from Newegg...


I bought mine from him, and when I had to return it because the back light was bad he took it back with no questions, no fees, and free return shipping.


----------



## desiromeo

Thanks. Good to know. Did you get a replacement from him? If so, how did that work out?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> That's a good idea!


Yeah, that is what I said months ago to someone else who suggested it. See below, this seller has a surplus of several hundred Grade A+ panels specifically intended for 



. However, not many will be OK with these since they are matte, with a tempered glass bezel over top. However, they are Grade A+ at the level of Apple and Dell quality, and that's actually more important to me. All I have to do is buy my own 2B overclocking kit from emaxeon, and a power brick from ebay and there you have it. My own home brewed Yamakasi, sort of. lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-LG-LCD-Screens-LM270WQ1-SD-DB-for-HP-Z1-AIO-Workstation-671197-001-/301333473684?

These actually come with the HP Z1 Edge-to-Edge Glass bezel which is extremely beautiful, but again very stupid if you ask me. They put a very high quality plasma matte coating only to cover it with a glossy glass bezel. Not so intelligent imo. But oh well, I do not care, its still a A+ panel that did not fail any tests from LG or Pegatron...


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> Thanks. Good to know. Did you get a replacement from him? If so, how did that work out?


No, I ended up buying a Qnix from someone else instead - didn't want to wait for the first one to return then have a replacement sent.


----------



## electro2u

Dream seller is my favorite seller. He is listed as ecomade arena on Amazon and I've had 2 perfect Qnix delivered in very short order from his address. I was able to verify the same shipper address to link the 2 together.


----------



## AznCQ

Update on my 970/120 HZ issue. Problem solved!

Turns out it really was the DVI cable, I was using a 15feet one which worked fine on my 760, but showed weird green pixels and lines when it was outputting images that had dark/black backgrounds on my 970. I have since switched to a 6ft dvi cable and all is good again, both monitors run 120hz perfectly. Able to max out at 126HZ on one of them now with my old cable









Also, latest nvidia drivers released last night fixed a big issue as well for me. I was randomly getting black screens and windows would freeze, wait 10 minutes and it would kick me out to the login screen again.

Everything is well again! So when in doubt, change that DVI cable.


----------



## sid4975

well I RMA'ed my qnix since it had those lines that I posted pics of and it couldn't overclock past 80mhz. Im hoping I have better luck with my replacement







this is the one I got

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JK1RP3170&Tpk=9SIA4JK1RP3170

atleast newegg was kind enough give me a free shipping label. seeing as I spent 2500$ building this new system its least they could do.


----------



## wntrsnowg

Does anyone know if I can OC my qnix while also running an additional monitor off the same GPU (connected via hdmi)? I do not want the other monitor to be OCed


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can OC my qnix while also running an additional monitor off the same GPU (connected via hdmi)? I do not want the other monitor to be OCed


The overclock is on a per monitor basis as in you choose which monitor is overclocked. My main monitor, the QNIX is overclocked to 110 hz while my secondary monitor is still stock 60 hz.


----------



## Cloudpost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Are you connecting it via DVI to your computer? HDMI maybe can't do 1440p


I am using the DVI cable that was provided.

Still 1920x1080 after fresh windows install and new drivers.


----------



## xliquidx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudpost*
> 
> I am using the DVI cable that was provided.
> 
> Still 1920x1080 after fresh windows install and new drivers.


They definitely gave you a dual link dvi cable right? Not single? Guess it wouldn't work at all otherwise. Strange


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Well, as you know I'm AMD, and you're Nvidia.. But for AMD, despite the fact I have (4) effing video cards, all monitors must connect to top card. I have (3) Qnix DL DVI monitors.. There are only (2) DL DVI outs from the 290x. I need to buy an active adapter that will take my displayport out from card, and convert it to DL DVI for my third monitor. Get it? It's still a hell of a lot cheaper than getting displayport equipped monitors, etc, or at least it used to be. It's just more of the fact that I'm pissed I have to do it, it's my only oversight (aside from emptying my pockets), and it will affect overclockability of the monitor. I'll get over it... After dumping $7k on a damn computer, I'm a bit jaded..


well damn,what kinda specs do you have that you dropped about 7k on it? and im not going to need an active adapter since i will be using 2 GTX 580 right?


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> well damn,what kinda specs do you have that you dropped about 7k on it? and im not going to need an active adapter since i will be using 2 GTX 580 right?


I don't know how nvidia works, sorry. My build basically ended up costing $1200 extra due to the video card situation.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> well damn,what kinda specs do you have that you dropped about 7k on it? and im not going to need an active adapter since i will be using 2 GTX 580 right?


If you have two DL DVI on your GTX 580's you should be fine. Nvidia lets you use connections on both video cards.


----------



## xliquidx

So do we need the SLI patch for 970s or is it not needed like the 780Ti in SLI


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xliquidx*
> 
> So do we need the SLI patch for 970s or is it not needed like the 780Ti in SLI


Not needed for GTX 780Ti's, so shouldn't be needed for 970s


----------



## JMattes

I am pretty pumped as the tracking info I was provided says it the monitor will arrive tomorrow.. hip hip..

I currently have AMD so I will be following the AMD OC guide and downloading that stuff.
ther than OCing it and then testing it with the two test sites.. What else should I do to put it through its paces to make sure its all good before I leave seller feedback?

Besides enjoy the beautiful view haha!

I also picked up a mounting arm for it.. Do I need to take the monitor apart to remove the stand?








I know the base is separated but other part that is in the back of the monitor.

And to make my Friday complete, Microcenter by me just posted 7 Gigabyte G1s instock!!
I think I will get one for now and see how it goes before getting the second for SLI.


----------



## Dry Bonez

If you have two DL DVI on your GTX 580's you should be fine. Nvidia lets you use connections on both video cards.[/quote]
exactly mmy point bro,my single gtx 580 does have 2x dvi and one mini hdmi,and i can dual monitor on 1 gtx 580,but from what i researched and found out,in order for me to enable surround for triple monitors,i will need SLI gtx 580,i cant do triple monitors with 1x gtx 580..thats my goal right now,to do triple monitors.....so in other words,im gonna need another gtx 580 right?


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudpost*
> 
> I am using the DVI cable that was provided.
> 
> Still 1920x1080 after fresh windows install and new drivers.


I bought a Dual Link DVI-D Cable to Display Port thinking I would use that as my main cable for my Qnix, No go, I could only run 1080P on that cable for whatever reason. Hooked up an old Dual Link DVI-D cable I Had laying around and was able to select 1440P, haven't tried the cable that came with the monitor


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I bought a Dual Link DVI-D Cable to Display Port thinking I would use that as my main cable for my Qnix, No go, I could only run 1080P on that cable for whatever reason. Hooked up an old Dual Link DVI-D cable I Had laying around and was able to select 1440P, haven't tried the cable that came with the monitor


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I did my research, I just rushed and didn't realize it was the dual input monitor. I bought this along with a 980 at the same exact time, so when I saw the 980 was in stock, I was like OOO CRAP let me hurry up and order the monitor too lol


So I contacted the seller about the false advertisement and here's the email chain, they are saying that the True 10 SE Version is a new updated version that supports overclocking without frame skipping, I say negative Ghost Rider:

Hi

Sorry for your inconvenience.

We have mentioned on the listing that we don't guarantee for overclocking issue.

First batch of Multi True10 monitor had frameskipping issue, but QNIX upgraded the firmware of PCB board and resolved the issue.
Multi True10 SE monitor is model name for revised version.

How did you know there is frameskipping?
Did you take a photo?
If you take a photo, you should use a professional camera.
Normal camera is not powerful enough to catch frameskipping.

Do you know the instruction to overclock the monitor?
If you don't have it, we will send it to you.

We will wait for your reply.
Thank you.

_____________________________________

Gtx 980 and yes. There are forums online that have confirmed that the true 10 version does not overclock without frame skipping because of the on board chip that manages the multiple inputs.
Sent from my LG G3, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

____________________________________

Hi

Thanks for contacting us.
Could you kindly tell us your graphic card?
Did you use the DVI-D cable that we sent?

We will wait for your reply.
Thank you~

________________________________________

"The description of this monitor states that it is overclockable. Just to clarify, this monitor is NOT overlockable without frame skipping."


----------



## NASzi

Sorry for the dual post

I read some reviews on this monitor on Newegg and alot of people are saying they overclocked their monitor but none of them mention verifying the frame skipping issue, I personally used the website recommended by the forums to check for frame skipping and I took the pictures with a Canon Point & Shoot camera that's a few years old but with a select-able ISO level of 80. I installed the recommended Qnix Driver and patched my display driver with the recommended program, could I Be missing something here?


----------



## Cloudpost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I bought a Dual Link DVI-D Cable to Display Port thinking I would use that as my main cable for my Qnix, No go, I could only run 1080P on that cable for whatever reason. Hooked up an old Dual Link DVI-D cable I Had laying around and was able to select 1440P, haven't tried the cable that came with the monitor


In all honesty I am not impressed with this monitor. The colors are washed out. I was using an Asus mx279h right before this and the color difference between the two is dramatic. The asus has great darks and detail where as the QNIX looks so gray and washed out.

When I was comparing input lag with my Asus, the numbers left a flashing inprint on the monitor for half an hour. I mainly play with my ps4 hooked up so 1440p isnt a HUGE issue, but my qnix doesnt even have that!. Hopefully my ebay seller (accessorieswhole) will let me return it/pay for shipping.

On a positive note.. the QNIX has really good input lag times! The Asus mx279h is supposedly one of the best according to displaylag.com. Tests were done in 1080p cuz.. you know...


----------



## electro2u

@naszi. you bought a multi input monitor. You yourself said you did you research but bought the wrong monitor. Multi input 1440p monitors don't overclock without frame skipping.

@cloudpost I don't get it. Which exact monitor did u buy? How many inputs does it have?
If it's dvi only how are you connecting your ps4 to it?
If it's got HDMI it's got regular input lag.


----------



## Cloudpost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> @naszi. you bought a multi input monitor. You yourself said you did you research but bought the wrong monitor. Multi input 1440p monitors don't overclock without frame skipping.
> 
> @cloudpost I don't get it. Which exact monitor did u buy? How many inputs does it have?
> If it's dvi only how are you connecting your ps4 to it?
> If it's got HDMI it's got regular input lag.


I got the true10 model with the hdmi. Both monitors were connected with a dvi cable for the input lag test. Just thought it was interesting that the QNIX had a better time than the "king of input lag" mx279h.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudpost*
> 
> In all honesty I am not impressed with this monitor. The colors are washed out. I was using an Asus mx279h right before this and the color difference between the two is dramatic. The asus has great darks and detail where as the QNIX looks so gray and washed out.
> 
> When I was comparing input lag with my Asus, the numbers left a flashing inprint on the monitor for half an hour. I mainly play with my ps4 hooked up so 1440p isnt a HUGE issue, but my qnix doesnt even have that!. Hopefully my ebay seller (accessorieswhole) will let me return it/pay for shipping.
> 
> On a positive note.. the QNIX has really good input lag times! The Asus mx279h is supposedly one of the best according to displaylag.com. Tests were done in 1080p cuz.. you know...


Your ASUS is wide-gamut. If you are running it in AdobeRGB mode, then you have had oversaturated colors the whole time, if you were consuming sRGB content (99% of consumer content, web, etc...).


----------



## MenacingTuba

The MX series uses 6 bit +FRC AH-IPS panels which can only cover 90% of the sRGB color space. They do tend to come with high preset gamma though (linear 2.3-2.4).


----------



## wntrsnowg

I switched out my DVI cable to a monoprice one and got my monitor to OC now at 110Hz, instead of 90Hz. Cables do matter!


----------



## Cloudpost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The MX series uses 6 bit +FRC AH-IPS panels which can only cover 90% of the sRGB color space. They do tend to come with high preset gamma though (linear 2.3-2.4).


Tell me more about the mx vs the qnix. Why does the qnix look like there is a gray film over everything. Today is my last day to return the MX but I am leaning towards keeping it and shipping back the QNIX (especially since I cant even get it to run 2560x1440).


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudpost*
> 
> Tell me more about the mx vs the qnix. Why does the qnix look like there is a gray film over everything. Today is my last day to return the MX but I am leaning towards keeping it and shipping back the QNIX (especially since I cant even get it to run 2560x1440).


Take a photo showing the difference between the two.

How come you're not able to get 2560x1440? What's going wrong? Maybe there is overscan / underscan / RGB range issues affecting the image.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I switched out my DVI cable to a monoprice one and got my monitor to OC now at 110Hz, instead of 90Hz. Cables do matter!


Yeah, that is why Cable Matters call themselves Cable Matters, lol... If cables didn't matter, then you could remove it and your monitor would still work just fine...









My gold plated cables will be here today from Cable matters, and even though my Dell 2407WFP does not need it I am giving it a nice new cable today anyway...


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah, that is why Cable Matters call themselves Cable Matters, lol... If cables didn't matter, then you could remove it and your monitor would still work just fine...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gold plated cables will be here today from Cable matters, and even though my Dell 2407WFP does not need it I am giving it a nice new cable today anyway...


So your saying the cable the comes with it may actually be stopping it from overclocking to its full potential?


----------



## SeanEboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> So your saying the cable the comes with it may actually be stopping it from overclocking to its full potential?


This has been stated before, earlier in this thread. Buying a shorter, higher quality cable, has enabled some to get more out of their monitors.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudpost*
> 
> Tell me more about the mx vs the qnix. Why does the qnix look like there is a gray film over everything. Today is my last day to return the MX but I am leaning towards keeping it and shipping back the QNIX (especially since I cant even get it to run 2560x1440).


Best to return the MX since there are better plus PWM/Flicker Free IPS available for the same price. The Qnix issue is likely caused by the poor quality of the included dvi cable and/or using the 7950's single link dvi port. Make sure to use the cards dual link dvi port, disconnect the MX, reset the catalyst control settings and restart your PC.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> So your saying the cable the comes with it may actually be stopping it from overclocking to its full potential?


Yes absolutely. Not only does the DVI cable matter, the internal LVDS cables matter even more so. Put a high quality DVI and LVDS on these and most will do 120hz easy.

My Dell UltraSharp has always had frame skipping, for the entire 8 years I have owned it. Then one day I put a dual link cable on it and the frame skipping just vanished and I can run 75hz, for the first time ever without any skipping. All from a $8 cable....


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yes absolutely. Not only does the DVI cable matter, the internal LVDS cables matter even more so. Put a high quality DVI and LVDS on these and most will do 120hz easy.
> 
> My Dell UltraSharp has always had frame skipping, for the entire 8 years I have owned it. Then one day I put a dual link cable on it and the frame skipping just vanished and I can run 75hz, for the first time ever without any skipping. All from a $8 cable....


I think my cable is coming from whichever manufacturer the original buyer got it from.. I am not sure where he got it from.. How can I tell if the cable is of any good quality?

I probably need a 6' cable for my set up. (3' from the floor to desk, 2' long arm mount, 1' just in case)
In case the cable I got isn't long enough or is poor quality..

Any recommendations>


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I think my cable is coming from whichever manufacturer the original buyer got it from.. I am not sure where he got it from.. How can I tell if the cable is of any good quality?
> 
> I probably need a 6' cable for my set up. (3' from the floor to desk, 2' long arm mount, 1' just in case)
> In case the cable I got isn't long enough or is poor quality..
> 
> Any recommendations>


First see how the stock cable will perform. If you can overclock well, no weird lines etc....then there's no need to get another cable. I've been using mine overclocked with the cable that came with it for over a year with no issues.

Edit: btw which arm did you get?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I think my cable is coming from whichever manufacturer the original buyer got it from.. I am not sure where he got it from.. How can I tell if the cable is of any good quality?
> 
> I probably need a 6' cable for my set up. (3' from the floor to desk, 2' long arm mount, 1' just in case)
> In case the cable I got isn't long enough or is poor quality..
> 
> Any recommendations>


Someone replied to you with the proper steps. First make sure your cable isn't the bottleneck. If it is, then get either the Cable Matters from Amazon, or the Monoprice one. I guess that depends on where you live though. I couldnt use my Dual Link cable because it was 16' long, so I went back to the single link dvi, which I finally get replaced today with a 6' Cable Matters cable.

My 16' was for a custom HTPC setup I had back in 2008-2012. That 16' cable cost me like $175, LOL, and was super high quality, its just WAY too long for my needs today, so it sits in the closet..


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> First see how the stock cable will perform. If you can overclock well, no weird lines etc....then there's no need to get another cable. I've been using mine overclocked with the cable that came with it for over a year with no issues.
> 
> Edit: btw which arm did you get?


I have a funny feeling that the cable will not be 6' long that is why I ask.. I would be shocked if it was long enough..

I went with this arm.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B419MZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got confirmation that from the top of the table to the center of the mount it can extend up to 22" which I need 21".
So I figured I would give it a shot.

Mount is probably on my door step now.. Monitor should be here tomorrow and the Gigabyte G1 970 is in the car.
This is shaping up to be good









This what you guys are talking about?
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1414176613&sr=8-32&keywords=Cable+Matters


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I have a funny feeling that the cable will not be 6' long that is why I ask.. I would be shocked if it was long enough..
> 
> I went with this arm.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B419MZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I got confirmation that from the top of the table to the center of the mount is can extend up to 22" which I need 21".
> So I figured I would give it a shot.
> 
> Mount is probably on my door step now.. Monitor should be here tomorrow and the Gigabyte G1 970 is in the car.
> This is shaping up to be good


Looks good. I've been thinking lately i should've went with an arm instead of a stand as a replacement for the stock one.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Looks good. I've been thinking lately i should've went with an arm instead of a stand as a replacement for the stock one.


Well the problem is I have 3 1080p 23" monitors that I dont know what to do with that all look identical..
So I was like what set up should I do with this new 27".

So I decided it would be cool to have the 27 on a 2nd tier above the middle monitor..
I don't think I really gave it much thought as to how functional it would be..

I guess by having it on the second tier it may cause me to actually sit up straight as I look up towards it to game?
I may very well hate it and need a new configuration..

None of my 3 1080p monitors can be mounted.. There all Samungs B300s.. I didn't even think about that back then when I bought the first and then the 2nd over 3 years ago..
It wasn't until the 3rd one when I thought it would be cool to mount them did I realize they couldnt be...

haha.. $450 in monitors that arent worth the hassle to sell.. might as well just keep using them.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well the problem is I have 3 1080p 23" monitors that I dont know what to do with that all look identical..
> So I was like what set up should I do with this new 27".
> 
> So I decided it would be cool to have the 27 on a 2nd tier above the middle monitor..
> I don't think I really gave it much thought as to how functional it would be..
> 
> I guess by having it on the second tier it may cause me to actually sit up straight as I look up towards it to game?
> I may very well hate it and need a new configuration..
> 
> None of my 3 1080p monitors can be mounted.. There all Samungs B300s.. I didn't even think about that back then when I bought the first and then the 2nd over 3 years ago..
> It wasn't until the 3rd one when I thought it would be cool to mount them did I realize they couldnt be...
> 
> haha.. $450 in monitors that arent worth the hassle to sell.. might as well just keep using them.


Well if you're planning to use the Qnix as you primary display, placing it way up there wouldn't be comfortable for your neck and eyes I imagine. 10-15 degrees below your eye level is the sweet spot. If you're using it as a secondary monitor then it's ok i guess.

A setup that would work, is rotating 2 of your 23" monitors to portrait, and placing the Qnix in the middle. I don't know if it would align perfectly though with you monitors. I saw a setup here once where the horizontal length of the small displays matched the vertical length of the the middle 27" display. So the two small monitors were like an extension the middle 27". It was awesome.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> So I contacted the seller about the false advertisement and here's the email chain, they are saying that the True 10 SE Version is a new updated version that supports overclocking without frame skipping, I say negative Ghost Rider:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> Sorry for your inconvenience.
> 
> We have mentioned on the listing that we don't guarantee for overclocking issue.
> 
> First batch of Multi True10 monitor had frameskipping issue, but QNIX upgraded the firmware of PCB board and resolved the issue.
> Multi True10 SE monitor is model name for revised version.
> 
> How did you know there is frameskipping?
> Did you take a photo?
> If you take a photo, you should use a professional camera.
> Normal camera is not powerful enough to catch frameskipping.
> 
> Do you know the instruction to overclock the monitor?
> If you don't have it, we will send it to you.
> 
> We will wait for your reply.
> Thank you.
> 
> _____________________________________
> 
> Gtx 980 and yes. There are forums online that have confirmed that the true 10 version does not overclock without frame skipping because of the on board chip that manages the multiple inputs.
> Sent from my LG G3, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> ____________________________________
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks for contacting us.
> Could you kindly tell us your graphic card?
> Did you use the DVI-D cable that we sent?
> 
> We will wait for your reply.
> Thank you~
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________
> 
> *"The description of this monitor states that it is overclockable. Just to clarify, this monitor is NOT overlockable without frame skipping."*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> @naszi. you bought a multi input monitor. You yourself said you did you research but bought the wrong monitor. *Multi input 1440p monitors don't overclock without frame skipping.
> *
> @cloudpost I don't get it. Which exact monitor did u buy? How many inputs does it have?
> If it's dvi only how are you connecting your ps4 to it?
> If it's got HDMI it's got regular input lag.
Click to expand...

So far, some multi-input True10 (HDMI) monitors have been proven to overclock to 75Hz-85Hz *"Without Frame Dropping"* with the Dual DVI connection ONLY! ...
See the "Update" section of my post *HERE* ... or the link in OP "New Buyer Tips" ...

Also note many True10 models will show an OC of 96Hz-120Hz but when you verify in testufo w/HQ camera they ALL have been shown to Frame Drop ...
So far









This unfortunately puts you in quite a dilemma, as they state OC's aren't guaranteed, but if they still have the "120Hz OC possible" in their description, then I think you "may" still have an argument for false advertising!








Hope that helps to communicate with them? ... let us know how it all shakes out?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> So your saying the cable the comes with it may actually be stopping it from overclocking to its full potential?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I switched out my DVI cable to a monoprice one and got my monitor to OC now at 110Hz, instead of 90Hz. Cables do matter!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> First see how the stock cable will perform. If you can overclock well, no weird lines etc....then there's no need to get another cable. *I've been using mine overclocked with the cable that came with it for over a year with no issues.
> 
> *Edit: btw which arm did you get?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

"Cables Do Matter" ... but I've seen just as many people upgrade to a higher quality cable, same length or shorter, same gauge or heavier, and see no improvement at all, some even had worse results. This is within the 6' or shorter range. If you go longer (not recommended for high OC's) then quality/gauge becomes even more of a factor.

Like Sempre above I'm using my stock 5' cable (came w/monitor green-sum) with great results and saw no improvement with my gold-plated 6'er, actually it was slightly worse, it would barely do 120Hz stable.
I saw one guy try 3 different of the same brand (Cable Matters IT?) high quality (gold-plated) same size (6') cables and have varying results.
What it looks like it comes down to is you can see varying quality within the same manufacturer ... frustrating as heck I know, but one you need a "golden" cable to begin with and 2 IMO a less than 50% chance it will make any difference to begin with







... BUT definitely try your stock cable/OME first









It would be exciting to see Skorpion expand his cable business to cover all our bases with KNOWN custom made high quality cables, including LVDS


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Well if you're planning to use the Qnix as you primary display, placing it way up there wouldn't be comfortable for your neck and eyes I imagine. 10-15 degrees below your eye level is the sweet spot. If you're using it as a secondary monitor then it's ok i guess.
> 
> A setup that would work, is rotating 2 of your 23" monitors to portrait, and placing the Qnix in the middle. I don't know if it would align perfectly though with you monitors. I saw a setup here once where the horizontal length of the small displays matched the vertical length of the the middle 27" display. So the two small monitors were like an extension the middle 27". It was awesome.


I just measured the width and if I pivot 2 of the 23" monitors it will be a few inches higher than the height of the 27"

Problem is the 23" monitors have no mounting holes... and the back isn''t flat!


This is the one at work which gives a good idea of what I mean.. but the ones I have at home are slightly different.

Not sure about how to go about making a VESA mounting bracket on the back.. As I can't just drill anywhere into the back of the panel..

If anyone is interested in helping me with this "problem".....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1520669/mounting-a-display-that-doesnt-have-vesa

Made a thread to discuss.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just measured the width and if I pivot 2 of the 23" monitors it will be a few inches higher than the height of the 27"
> 
> Problem is the 23" monitors have no mounting holes... and the back isn''t flat!
> 
> 
> This is the one at work which gives a good idea of what I mean.. but the ones I have at home are slightly different.
> 
> Not sure about how to go about making a VESA mounting bracket on the back.. As I can't just drill anywhere into the back of the panel..
> 
> If anyone is interested in helping me with this "problem".....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1520669/mounting-a-display-that-doesnt-have-vesa
> 
> Made a thread to discuss.


True. You just cant drill without knowing what's behind the back cover. I know there are Qnix owners here who de-bezeled and made a whole new back plate with vesa mounts. See here. Anyway yeah, better to go on on a new thread. Good call.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> True. You just cant drill without knowing what's behind the back cover. I know there are Qnix owners here who de-bezeled and made a whole new back plate with vesa mounts. See here. Anyway yeah, better to go on on a new thread. Good call.


Oh boy that seems like work.. and I am sure it is far from as easy as that thread makes it out to look..
Guess I will try out what I have and see how it goes..


----------



## wntrsnowg

Doing that debezzel method is actually very easy, so long as you have common garage tools already such as some kind of hand saw or box cutter, basic drill, and the little bolts which are cheap to purchase, and the JB weld which is also cheap to purchase. It takes roughly a day, and then you have to let your monitor sit without using it for a day to let the epoxy set. I did it myself and it looks pretty nice now, but the effort involved is more than 95% of us are willing to do


----------



## jameyscott

I'm probably going to be doing it when my wife and I buy a house hopefully sometime next year.


----------



## OkanG

Debezzeling looks great, but is it possible to still protect the pcb's and what not behing the monitor when you've removed the bezel? I'm thinking for protection when taking the monitor to a LAN party


----------



## NASzi

welp there might actually be some validity to the statement that the koreans are making about the True SE Version being over clockable. I'm currently running at 84 hertz with no frame skipping, verified at 100 Iso with my camera. I'm going to try and push it a little bit further. I was getting some frame skipping at 96


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Well in all honesty if you can't get 96hz without frame skipping then it really isn't worth it. With multiples of 24hz, it doesn't do much good for all the 24fps content. I'd rather run 72hz and no frame skipping then 96hz with skipping. 85hz and no skipping would be great for 85fps gaming though. lol

Good luck and let us know how high you get it without any skipping...


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Well in all honesty if you can't get 96hz without frame skipping then it really isn't worth it. With multiples of 24hz, it doesn't do much good for all the 24fps content. I'd rather run 72hz and no frame skipping then 96hz with skipping. 85hz and no skipping would be great for 85fps gaming though. lol
> 
> Good luck and let us know how high you get it without any skipping...


Every Hz count. WE NEED MOAR Hz lol.

Seriously though, the 24 multiples thing is obsolete with SVP+Reclock don't you think? That is if you like using frame interpolating anyway.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Every Hz count. WE NEED MOAR Hz lol.
> 
> Seriously though the 24 multiples thing is obsolete with SVP+Reclock don't you think? That is if you like using frame interpolating anyway.


To me, multiples of 30 are more important because some in game Videos tear at anything other than 60/90/120


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah, it don't really matter to me really, as all my videos go straight to a 120hz TV. With built in processing doing what SVP does for the PC I still have never seen a tear once on the TV. Although I do wish everything was filmed in 60fps or even 120fps.

Isn't James Cameron going to shoot Avatar 2 in 120fps maybe? Or was that a rumor? That would look sweet...


----------



## Kegizm

Hey guys, new here

I've been reading through the thread and I'm struggling to decide what monitor I should purchase.

Could one of you be kind enough to link to where I can buy an overclockable version of either the Qnix or Xstar?

Thanks any help is appreciated


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> welp there might actually be some validity to the statement that the koreans are making about the True SE Version being over clockable. I'm currently running at 84 hertz with no frame skipping, verified at 100 Iso with my camera. I'm going to try and push it a little bit further. I was getting some frame skipping at 96


It's been posted several times that you can go to 85Hz on the newer true10 monitors.


----------



## ebhsimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah, it don't really matter to me really, as all my videos go straight to a 120hz TV. With built in processing doing what SVP does for the PC I still have never seen a tear once on the TV. Although I do wish everything was filmed in 60fps or even 120fps.
> 
> Isn't James Cameron going to shoot Avatar 2 in 120fps maybe? Or was that a rumor? That would look sweet...


He wanted to film at 48fps, but it's not confirmed yet.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> It's been posted several times that you can go to 85Hz on the newer true10 monitors.


Once my new PCB comes in the mail from QNIX I will test this frame skip issue because I didn't notice anything when I got mine to 96Hz (artifacts at 120Hz).


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> It's been posted several times that you can go to 85Hz on the newer true10 monitors.


dang I had no clue


----------



## imaghost03214

Okay folks...

With so very many types of these monitors out there.. I've looked into the one mentioned in title of this thread. I've found it on Newegg at a fair price. What is your all's opinion of it?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1NB1871

Is it a decent 2560 mon to get? I dnt care bout viewing angles, tilt/movement, base, none of that.. I PURELY care ONLY about quality of the output of the screen. I've never owned a 2k screen, only 1920x1080 panels. I have dual 780 ti's, moving up to dual 980's soon.. so that's not an issue.. I just am a gamer, wondering if it' may be a satisfactory upgrade... and I welcome your thot's an opinions. you may PM me to keep from cluttering up the thread.

Matthew

P.S.

I have read through this thread, and other searches on google... I know there is a ton of info out there.. but what google hasnt really given me, is people's personal thots on this one. If it needs a little work that's fine.. Im a techy anyways, and a tinkerer. Not exactly expecting 100% 120hz OC'ing, just good picture, good reliability, and decent price.... I think this fits that, but I'm asking the folks who own it, what they think... from one comin from an asus 1080p, is this a good choice?

Other thots?


----------



## autobtsrllout

Hey guys! Me again.

So I found a Qnix 2700 in my area. I'm trying to figure out if this is one of the HDMI multi input models or not but for the price i might just buy it anyway. Heck.

My quesiton is this. I already have a Qnix 2710 (single DVI-D input model) overclocked to 110hz. I'm curious if the input lag the multi input models have would be noticeable if I was using it in a 3x1 display setup? I have 2 GTX 770 4gbs in sli and I know that thats a lot of pixels to push with them but I figure it might be do able on low settings until i get a SLI GTX 980 setup going or comparable.

Should I stay away from the muli input models as a whole?

Also, my QNIX is NOT the Multi 10 true bullcrap model. I'm under the impression these are still junk. True?

I know Nvidia is tricky about getting a 3x1 setup to work (All the monitors needing to be the same refresh and resolution). Would I be better off sticking to the stock 60hz on the three monitors (to lower the performance requirements) and not having to worry about having issues getting a stable overclock to all of the three monitors I'd be using?

Feedback is greatly appreciate guys! Thanks!


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> Hey guys! Me again.
> 
> So I found a Qnix 2700 in my area. I'm trying to figure out if this is one of the HDMI multi input models or not but for the price i might just buy it anyway. Heck.
> 
> My quesiton is this. I already have a Qnix 2710 (single DVI-D input model) overclocked to 110hz. I'm curious if the input lag the multi input models have would be noticeable if I was using it in a 3x1 display setup? I have 2 GTX 770 4gbs in sli and I know that thats a lot of pixels to push with them but I figure it might be do able on low settings until i get a SLI GTX 980 setup going or comparable.
> 
> Should I stay away from the muli input models as a whole?
> 
> Also, my QNIX is NOT the Multi 10 true bullcrap model. I'm under the impression these are still junk. True?
> 
> I know Nvidia is tricky about getting a 3x1 setup to work (All the monitors needing to be the same refresh and resolution). Would I be better off sticking to the stock 60hz on the three monitors (to lower the performance requirements) and not having to worry about having issues getting a stable overclock to all of the three monitors I'd be using?
> 
> Feedback is greatly appreciate guys! Thanks!


I run my three in Surround at 96Hz on two 780Ti's. With the new drivers, this doing so is no problem at all. If you bought the single input 2710 to go above 60hz, I would recommend staying away from the multi input model. The newer true10 can probably get to 85Hz without frame skipping, so if your comfortable with that...it's your call.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imaghost03214*
> 
> Okay folks...
> 
> With so very many types of these monitors out there.. I've looked into the one mentioned in title of this thread. I've found it on Newegg at a fair price. What is your all's opinion of it?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1NB1871
> 
> Is it a decent 2560 mon to get? I dnt care bout viewing angles, tilt/movement, base, none of that.. I PURELY care ONLY about quality of the output of the screen. I've never owned a 2k screen, only 1920x1080 panels. I have dual 780 ti's, moving up to dual 980's soon.. so that's not an issue.. I just am a gamer, wondering if it' may be a satisfactory upgrade... and I welcome your thot's an opinions. you may PM me to keep from cluttering up the thread.
> 
> Matthew
> 
> P.S.
> 
> I have read through this thread, and other searches on google... I know there is a ton of info out there.. but what google hasnt really given me, is people's personal thots on this one. If it needs a little work that's fine.. Im a techy anyways, and a tinkerer. Not exactly expecting 100% 120hz OC'ing, just good picture, good reliability, and decent price.... I think this fits that, but I'm asking the folks who own it, what they think... from one comin from an asus 1080p, is this a good choice?
> 
> Other thots?


Upgrading to 980 SLi from 780Ti SLi will be for the majority of non-memory intensive games a sidegrade with a slight boost (10-15%) stock vs. stock and a downgrade when the memory bus gets stressed (as is the case in many games at 4K). Your 780Ti's overclocked will be as fast or faster than 980s overclocked.

We've went over this countless times, the True10 doesn't overclock (only goes up to 85Hz before it starts frameskipping), has two frames of input lag @ 60Hz, has an inferior panel, etc... Please read the OP, it should contain this information, as do the most recent posts on later pages. The SE is a Second Edition that allows for higher stuck / dead pixel counts, however, no idea if it affects overclocking. I remember one user going for the non-pixel perfect since if the panel is going to be free of stuck / dead pixels, which doesn't matter much to him, it might have other issues that are more severe instead (after those panels being filtered against pixel issues), such as backlight bleed, panel pressure from the chassis, etc...


----------



## autobtsrllout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I run my three in Surround at 96Hz on two 780Ti's. With the new drivers, this doing so is no problem at all. If you bought the single input 2710 to go above 60hz, I would recommend staying away from the multi input model. The newer true10 can probably get to 85Hz without frame skipping, so if your comfortable with that...it's your call.


So is the model Qnix you're running in 3x1 a 2710 or the 2700? I have the seller checking now to confirm whether it has the multi inputs or the single inputs.

Given the price they're asking for and that it's local (brand new as well) I'm considering buying it regardless of the model type to make it a gift for my father should it turn out to not be workable into a 3x1 setup for myself.

Thanks for the reply none the least Roland!


----------



## Imitationcrabme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> We've went over this countless times, the True10 doesn't overclock (only goes up to 85Hz before it starts frameskipping), has two frames of input lag @ 60Hz, has an inferior panel, etc... Please read the OP, it should contain this information, as do the most recent posts on later pages. The SE is a Second Edition that allows for higher stuck / dead pixel counts, however, no idea if it affects overclocking. I remember one user going for the non-pixel perfect since if the panel is going to be free of stuck / dead pixels, which doesn't matter much to him, it might have other issues that are more severe instead (after those panels being filtered against pixel issues), such as backlight bleed, panel pressure from the chassis, etc...


*Confirmed.* Despite claims of the "New Improved No More Frame Skipping" true 10 multi version, it is still garbage, and has 2 frames of input lag. It is better than TN, but inferior to IPS. Do not buy any multi-input korean 1440p monitor. It is laggy enough you will notice even during regular web browsing and computer tasks.


----------



## JMattes

Anyone have a site for testing dead pixels?

Didnt see one on the main page?


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Anyone have a site for testing dead pixels?
> 
> Didnt see one on the main page?


That's because you test dead pixels.









You can use the stuck pixel testers to see, but that's only for trying to unstick them


----------



## JMattes

Haha let me rephase..

Is there a way to test FOR dead, stuck and bright pixels?
I would guess its a site that displays different colors to help identify any problem pixels?

How do I go about testing?

I have the standard window background up now and I do not see any problems but I want to make sure

Just got my first QNIX monitor! Want to put it threw through the paces..











However it doesnt seem like the display is centered.. Notice the 1/8" run of black at the top..
There is a small cut off at the bottom too... I would guess AMD software can move it..

Is there a pay to adjust position? Last monitor did it through its own menu options


----------



## OkanG

The more I look at this thread, the more I doubt getting a Korean monitor.. Lots of people reporting odd problems


----------



## Dry Bonez

here is a dumb question,but what desk is good for TRIPLE monitors? i willl be in a corner and would like suggestions,i cant find any and when i type triple monitors desks,all i see is the ergotech stands and all that.i just really would like some guidance in regards to a desk.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> here is a dumb question,but what desk is good for TRIPLE monitors? i willl be in a corner and would like suggestions,i cant find any and when i type triple monitors desks,all i see is the ergotech stands and all that.i just really would like some guidance in regards to a desk.


One that fits them all


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> here is a dumb question,but what desk is good for TRIPLE monitors? i willl be in a corner and would like suggestions,i cant find any and when i type triple monitors desks,all i see is the ergotech stands and all that.i just really would like some guidance in regards to a desk.


I say any office desk works, with your own ingenuity and build talents, so long its not a classroom type single person desk, lol...


----------



## Ovrclck

Craigslist for an Ikea Galant

Sent from my Note 3 ( No, it's not an eyephone!)


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Anyone have a site for testing dead pixels?
> 
> Didnt see one on the main page?


Check the OP FAQ. Specifically, near the bottom of the FAQ section. I have a website linked there


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> welp there might actually be some validity to the statement that the koreans are making about the True SE Version being over clockable. I'm currently running at 84 hertz with no frame skipping, verified at 100 Iso with my camera. I'm going to try and push it a little bit further. I was getting some frame skipping at 96
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> dang I had no clue
Click to expand...

Sheeeesh I thought I answered your inquiry just a few pages ago / within 4-5hrs ... see *HERE* ... don't forget my links BOLD *HERE* click on it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Every Hz count. WE NEED MOAR Hz lol.
> 
> Seriously though, the 24 multiples thing is obsolete with SVP+Reclock don't you think? That is if you like using frame interpolating anyway.


Good point ... +R









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> To me, multiples of 30 are more important because some in game Videos tear at anything other than 60/90/120


Also good point +R ... Though my 24/7 setting is 110Hz ... I get around this by using the in game 120Hz setting with my 120Hz NVCP profile, like you said Tomb Raider is a good example of how sync'd overclocks matter for many cinematics in game









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kegizm*
> 
> Hey guys, new here
> 
> I've been reading through the thread and I'm struggling to decide what monitor I should purchase.
> 
> Could one of you be kind enough to link to where I can buy an overclockable version of either the Qnix or Xstar?
> 
> Thanks any help is appreciated


It would help greatly if we knew your location, but if it's NAmerica ... quick search shows me this ...

1) Traditional Matte screen ...
QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" WQHD PLS 2560x1440 Computer Monitor *Matte
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-WQHD-PLS-2560x1440-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6

2) Glossy (Heck of a price if it's true Glossy and NOT tempered glass?
QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor *Glossy ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3

STAY AWAY FROM the True10 models, $40-$50 cheaper right now ...
READ WHY ... *HERE ...*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Once my new PCB comes in the mail from QNIX I will test this frame skip issue because I didn't notice anything when I got mine to 96Hz (artifacts at 120Hz).


You won't visually see frame dropping, some will definitely "feel" it, BUT Frame skipping can only be confirmed with testufo and high shutter speed pics
See *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imaghost03214*
> 
> Okay folks...
> 
> With so very many types of these monitors out there.. I've looked into the one mentioned in title of this thread. I've found it on Newegg at a fair price. What is your all's opinion of it?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1NB1871
> 
> Is it a decent 2560 mon to get? I dnt care bout viewing angles, tilt/movement, base, none of that.. I PURELY care ONLY about quality of the output of the screen. I've never owned a 2k screen, only 1920x1080 panels. I have dual 780 ti's, moving up to dual 980's soon.. so that's not an issue.. I just am a gamer, wondering if it' may be a satisfactory upgrade... and I welcome your thot's an opinions. you may PM me to keep from cluttering up the thread.
> 
> Matthew
> 
> P.S.
> 
> I have read through this thread, and other searches on google... I know there is a ton of info out there.. but what google hasnt really given me, is people's personal thots on this one. If it needs a little work that's fine.. Im a techy anyways, and a tinkerer. Not exactly expecting 100% 120hz OC'ing, just good picture, good reliability, and decent price.... I think this fits that, but I'm asking the folks who own it, what they think... from one comin from an asus 1080p, is this a good choice?
> 
> Other thots?


Sorry NO! if you want the reliable overclocking model most of us have ... the Newegg listing you posted is for the multi-input True10 model ...
See OP "New Buyers Tips" link or go directly *HERE* ...









Single-Input PLS overclocking models linked above









Man this True10 thing and not reading the OP is wearing on me ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Anyone have a site for testing dead pixels?
> 
> Didnt see one on the main page?


NICE ... you received it in good shape ... Let's Overclock ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> The more I look at this thread, the more I doubt getting a Korean monitor.. Lots of people reporting odd problems


Hmmmmm ... 1440p IPS/PLS @ 120Hz appx $320!!! ... are you sure OCN is your cup O tea


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Hmmmmm ... 1440p IPS/PLS @ 120Hz appx $320!!! ... are you sure OCN is your cup O tea


Just say it to my face if you want me to leave









But I must say you kind of convinced me there..


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *autobtsrllout*
> 
> So is the model Qnix you're running in 3x1 a 2710 or the 2700? I have the seller checking now to confirm whether it has the multi inputs or the single inputs.
> 
> Given the price they're asking for and that it's local (brand new as well) I'm considering buying it regardless of the model type to make it a gift for my father should it turn out to not be workable into a 3x1 setup for myself.
> 
> Thanks for the reply none the least Roland!


I have three of the QX2710LED monitors.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Just say it to my face if you want me to leave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I must say you kind of convinced me there..


I just got one of these QNIX monitors after looking it over for a month and I have to say it is so much nicer than the 1080p TN panels I have!!
Even my gf who was like its a damn monitor used my computer today and was like wow its nice.

I got mine from Ebay for a steal of a deal ($275 shipped) with no dead pixels.. you really can't beat that..

Only issue I have is the display seems to be an 1/8" shifted down and I am not sure why but I am sure there is a way to fix that..
Anyone..?? haha


----------



## Forceman

The panel is probably off-center in the frame. You'd have to take it apart and add a small spacer at the bottom. Mine has the same problem, but I've decided to just live with it.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> The panel is probably off-center in the frame. You'd have to take it apart and add a small spacer at the bottom. Mine has the same problem, but I've decided to just live with it.


ahh pooh.. I was hoping to not have to take it apart..
there no alignment software side to move the display up? my samsung monitors have a way of moving the display...

on another note how do I remove the stand? does it have to come apart for that?
I was planning on mounting it.faq section answered it.. looks like one way or another it is now coming part..


----------



## Kegizm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> It would help greatly if we knew your location, but if it's NAmerica ... quick search shows me this ...
> 
> 1) Traditional Matte screen ...
> QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" WQHD PLS 2560x1440 Computer Monitor *Matte
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-WQHD-PLS-2560x1440-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> 
> 2) Glossy (Heck of a price if it's true Glossy and NOT tempered glass?
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor *Glossy ...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> STAY AWAY FROM the True10 models, $40-$50 cheaper right now ...
> READ WHY ... *HERE ...*
> You won't visually see frame dropping, some will definitely "feel" it, BUT Frame skipping can only be confirmed with testufo and high shutter speed pics
> See *HERE* ...
> Sorry NO! if you want the reliable overclocking model most of us have ... the Newegg listing you posted is for the multi-input True10 model ...
> See OP "New Buyers Tips" link or go directly *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Single-Input PLS overclocking models linked above


Thanks for the reply man

I'm from the UK and have no idea who to buy from.

I was looking at this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-QHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/221239034169?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item3382dfc139

Should I go with a Qnix or Xstar? And is it worth going with the perfect pixel option?


----------



## OkanG

When you debezel a monitor, do you take the whole protection thing off? Is it all one big piece of plastic, or can you protect the pcb and such while still having your monitor debezeled? I take my rig to LAN parties once in a while, and having open pcb's all over the place in my car would make me paranoid


----------



## NASzi

I'm Sorry Tomcat I completely missed it


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> When you debezel a monitor, do you take the whole protection thing off? Is it all one big piece of plastic, or can you protect the pcb and such while still having your monitor debezeled? I take my rig to LAN parties once in a while, and having open pcb's all over the place in my car would make me paranoid


pcb is protected under the cover. The only thing that would be out in the open are the small pcb for the front panel buttons.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> pcb is protected under the cover. The only thing that would be out in the open are the small pcb for the front panel buttons.


Are they even functional? I read in a review that the buttons were just aesthetic. The reviewer stated that they used a frame from another monitor model to save costs, but that the buttons actually don't do anyting









Anyways, I can live with them being out in the open. If it bothers me too much, I'll try painting the thing and see what happens, like in one of the linked tutorials from earlier.

Thanks!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Are they even functional? I read in a review that the buttons were just aesthetic. The reviewer stated that they used a frame from another monitor model to save costs, but that the buttons actually don't do anyting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, I can live with them being out in the open. If it bothers me too much, I'll try painting the thing and see what happens, like in one of the linked tutorials from earlier.
> 
> Thanks!


Yep! Everything is functional.

Link in OP


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

I thought only the Brightness and power button were functional, and everything else on the button PCB did nothing at all? At least for these bypass models.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I thought only the Brightness and power button were functional, and everything else on the button PCB did nothing at all? At least for these bypass models.


The only three buttons accessible from the outside are the brightness buttons and the power button.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The only three buttons accessible from the outside are the brightness buttons and the power button.


Hmm, then I wonder why BGKris said they were all functional?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Yep! Everything is functional.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Hmm, then I wonder why BGKris said they were all functional?


That's what I meant. Sorry that I was not more clear.


----------



## imaghost03214

I did read... and as far as the Mem bus, it has the Mem compression which is been shown to be as good as the wider bus.... I've read, and studied that. Also, far as the panel.. I didn't realize it was such a bad panel.. then why are so many folks on here buying it? meh...and no recommendation for a panel then? Thanks for your assessment. I will think it over. I am moving to the 980's for some of it's features, less power draw, Voxel(when used later) and so on. I don't care.. just want a panel that looks good.. doesn't have to have each and every single little thing perfect....

Matthew


----------



## imaghost03214

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Sheeeesh I thought I answered your inquiry just a few pages ago / within 4-5hrs ... see *HERE* ... don't forget my links BOLD *HERE* click on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good point ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also good point +R ... Though my 24/7 setting is 110Hz ... I get around this by using the in game 120Hz setting with my 120Hz NVCP profile, like you said Tomb Raider is a good example of how sync'd overclocks matter for many cinematics in game
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would help greatly if we knew your location, but if it's NAmerica ... quick search shows me this ...
> 
> 1) Traditional Matte screen ...
> QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" WQHD PLS 2560x1440 Computer Monitor *Matte
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-WQHD-PLS-2560x1440-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> 
> 2) Glossy (Heck of a price if it's true Glossy and NOT tempered glass?
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor *Glossy ...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> STAY AWAY FROM the True10 models, $40-$50 cheaper right now ...
> READ WHY ... *HERE ...*
> You won't visually see frame dropping, some will definitely "feel" it, BUT Frame skipping can only be confirmed with testufo and high shutter speed pics
> See *HERE* ...
> Sorry NO! if you want the reliable overclocking model most of us have ... the Newegg listing you posted is for the multi-input True10 model ...
> See OP "New Buyers Tips" link or go directly *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Single-Input PLS overclocking models linked above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man this True10 thing and not reading the OP is wearing on me ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NICE ... you received it in good shape ... Let's Overclock ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmm ... 1440p IPS/PLS @ 120Hz appx $320!!! ... are you sure OCN is your cup O tea


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Sheeeesh I thought I answered your inquiry just a few pages ago / within 4-5hrs ... see *HERE* ... don't forget my links BOLD *HERE* click on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good point ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also good point +R ... Though my 24/7 setting is 110Hz ... I get around this by using the in game 120Hz setting with my 120Hz NVCP profile, like you said Tomb Raider is a good example of how sync'd overclocks matter for many cinematics in game
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would help greatly if we knew your location, but if it's NAmerica ... quick search shows me this ...
> 
> 1) Traditional Matte screen ...
> QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" WQHD PLS 2560x1440 Computer Monitor *Matte
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-WQHD-PLS-2560x1440-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> 
> 2) Glossy (Heck of a price if it's true Glossy and NOT tempered glass?
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor *Glossy ...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> STAY AWAY FROM the True10 models, $40-$50 cheaper right now ...
> READ WHY ... *HERE ...*
> You won't visually see frame dropping, some will definitely "feel" it, BUT Frame skipping can only be confirmed with testufo and high shutter speed pics
> See *HERE* ...
> Sorry NO! if you want the reliable overclocking model most of us have ... the Newegg listing you posted is for the multi-input True10 model ...
> See OP "New Buyers Tips" link or go directly *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Single-Input PLS overclocking models linked above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man this True10 thing and not reading the OP is wearing on me ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NICE ... you received it in good shape ... Let's Overclock ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmm ... 1440p IPS/PLS @ 120Hz appx $320!!! ... are you sure OCN is your cup O tea


Thanks, for the link.. I still am not sure which one I should pick.,.... What is your thots?

I am still going to have to do some serious research... there are so many models.. I thinK i've narrowed it down a bit tho. Like I said before.. doens't have to be a perfect OC'er, doesn't have to be perfect veiwing angles, nor perfect stand... just decent/good quality picture for gaming... thats it. nothing fancy.
Matthew


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> That's what I meant. Sorry that I was not more clear.


I am having a hard time trying to figure out a really clever way to custom do my buttons. I feel like I have writers block or something, lol...


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Hmm, then I wonder why BGKris said they were all functional?


All three of them are functional. Brightness up, Brightness down, and power.

If there are more buttons on the PCB for OBD or Input, they wouldn't work on the DVI only Monitors.


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Wow it has been a long time since I have been in this thread. I bought my Qnix DVI-D only over 6 months ago which was around the same time when the True 10's came out and has been working great. I finally got around to replacing the crap stand with something much better and I don't have to use a medicine bottle anymore to get it to sit straight and centered.









I have a glass desk so any arms are not a option since I have no where i can safely attach it to. Was searching though the thread, and came across a stand that might work for me. Was going to get the monoprice one but was concerned how it would sit on the glass surface and not to mention the massive feet. I came across a post in the OP of a user using the HP ZR22w stand. I went to Ebay and sure enough I was able get one for $25 with shipping. I just finished installing it after having to deal with one of the self tapping screws (which was a pain) to remove a part of the old stand. Had to use some washers since the hardware store was closed because the screws that came with it were a little long.

The only HP branding on the stand is on the back. I don't have a heat gun but I bet I could remove it if i wanted to but that part does not get seen. The original post here

A quick pic of my new stand


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> Wow it has been a long time since I have been in this thread. I bought my Qnix DVI-D only over 6 months ago which was around the same time when the True 10's came out and has been working great. I finally got around to replacing the crap stand with something much better and I don't have to use a medicine bottle anymore to get it to sit straight and centered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a glass desk so any arms are not a option since I have no where i can safely attach it to. Was searching though the thread, and came across a stand that might work for me. Was going to get the monoprice one but was concerned how it would sit on the glass surface and not to mention the massive feet. I came across a post in the OP of a user using the HP ZR22w stand. I went to Ebay and sure enough I was able get one for $25 with shipping. I just finished installing it after having to deal with one of the self tapping screws (which was a pain) to remove a part of the old stand. Had to use some washers since the hardware store was closed because the screws that came with it were a little long.
> 
> The only HP branding on the stand is on the back. I don't have a heat gun but I bet I could remove it if i wanted to but that part does not get seen. The original post here
> 
> A quick pic of my new stand


You could also try an Xacto knife. If it's like a case badge type of sticker it should just pop right off using one.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imaghost03214*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Sheeeesh I thought I answered your inquiry just a few pages ago / within 4-5hrs ... see *HERE* ... don't forget my links BOLD *HERE* click on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good point ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also good point +R ... Though my 24/7 setting is 110Hz ... I get around this by using the in game 120Hz setting with my 120Hz NVCP profile, like you said Tomb Raider is a good example of how sync'd overclocks matter for many cinematics in game
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would help greatly if we knew your location, but if it's NAmerica ... quick search shows me this ...
> 
> 1) Traditional Matte screen ...
> QNIX QX2710 LED EvolutionⅡ 27" WQHD PLS 2560x1440 Computer Monitor *Matte
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-WQHD-PLS-2560x1440-Computer-Monitor-Matte-/121117252582?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c33269be6
> 
> 2) Glossy (Heck of a price if it's true Glossy and NOT tempered glass?
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor *Glossy ...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> STAY AWAY FROM the True10 models, $40-$50 cheaper right now ...
> READ WHY ... *HERE ...*
> You won't visually see frame dropping, some will definitely "feel" it, BUT Frame skipping can only be confirmed with testufo and high shutter speed pics
> See *HERE* ...
> Sorry NO! if you want the reliable overclocking model most of us have ... the Newegg listing you posted is for the multi-input True10 model ...
> See OP "New Buyers Tips" link or go directly *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Single-Input PLS overclocking models linked above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man this True10 thing and not reading the OP is wearing on me ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NICE ... you received it in good shape ... Let's Overclock ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmm ... 1440p IPS/PLS @ 120Hz appx $320!!! ... are you sure OCN is your cup O tea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, for the link.. I still am not sure which one I should pick.,.... What is your thots?
> 
> I am still going to have to do some serious research... there are so many models.. I thinK i've narrowed it down a bit tho. Like I said before.. doens't have to be a perfect OC'er, doesn't have to be perfect veiwing angles, nor perfect stand... just decent/good quality picture for gaming... thats it. nothing fancy.
> Matthew
Click to expand...

http://goo.gl/4ycter

Get the Qnix/Xstar Matte that only has the DVI-D input.
It will be a $1000 monitor for $320.
Just do it. You won't be dissapointed.

I believe the OP says that this monitor will only work for PC's but that's not true.
I have personally tested the monitor to work with consoles.
It will be letterboxed due to the scaler not scaling the 1080p signal up to 1440p but it does work.

*In fact anyone can personally test this with a click of a button.
Go into Nvidia Control Panel or Catalyst and simply set the resolution to 1080p.*

Example of a console hooked up to this monitor:


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I believe the OP says that this monitor will only work for PC's but that's not true. I have personally tested the monitor to work with consoles. It will be letterboxed due to the scaler not scaling the 1080p signal up to 1440p but it does work. In fact anyone can personally test this with a click of a button. Go into Nvidia Control Panel or Catalyst and simply set the resolution to 1080p.


I tested 3 of these (Glossy Qnix/X-Star and matte Qnix) @720+1080p and none worked. I've also tested 3x single input Korean IPS (Crossover 27Q LED-P and overclock-able MOTV & Yamakasi Catleap 2B) and only the non-overclock-able Crossover 27Q LED-P worked with consoles @720p. GPU's can scale any resolution to full screen or 1:1. Your 'proof,' is not proof because we can see that it says [Space] & [ESC] instead of a button prompt (ABXY. Back, Start) and you took the picture in the dark so we can't see the monitor. Either you are trolling or are using a multi-input version which will obviously work.


----------



## N3C14R

Hi, I have a problem with my xstar i purchased from dream-seller last year. I was watching some videos, paused it to go to the kitchen and when I came back the monitor was displaying a blank screen with the back light on. I tried restarting my PC and the monitor would make a pop noise and and show the blank screen with the backlight on. Also after the pop noise the blue led on the corner of the monitor becomes very dim.

I emailed dream-seller for a replacement but I'm pretty sure my monitor is past its warranty


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I believe the OP says that this monitor will only work for PC's but that's not true. I have personally tested the monitor to work with consoles. It will be letterboxed due to the scaler not scaling the 1080p signal up to 1440p but it does work. In fact anyone can personally test this with a click of a button. Go into Nvidia Control Panel or Catalyst and simply set the resolution to 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> I tested 3 of these (Glossy Qnix/X-Star and matte Qnix) @720+1080p and none worked. I've also tested 3x single input Korean IPS (Crossover 27Q LED-P and overclock-able MOTV & Yamakasi Catleap 2B) and only the non-overclock-able Crossover 27Q LED-P worked with consoles @720p. GPU's can scale any resolution to full screen or 1:1. Your 'proof,' is not proof because we can see that it says [Space] & [ESC] instead of a button prompt (ABXY. Back, Start) and you took the picture in the dark so we can't see the monitor. Either you are trolling or are using a multi-input version which will obviously work.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry the image I posted wasn't proof and I never claimed it was.
I said it was example of letterboxing.
_It's not even a picture of a monitor. It's an edited screenshot._

I do remember hooking my Xbox 360 up to my monitor and it working but I haven't tested it lately and I can't find the right cable.
I'll gladly admit I'm wrong if I can find the cable it doesn't work.

Also why would the Nvidia Control Panel not be proof?
When you set it to 1080p it sends a 1080p signal to the monitor.
If the monitor only accepted a 1440p signal then it shouldn't display the 1080p signal.
Unless I'm missing something.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I'm sorry the image I posted wasn't proof and I never claimed it was.


Your wording is very misleading:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Example of a console hooked up to this monitor:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Also why would the Nvidia Control Panel not be proof?


Because the gpu does the scaling. Monitors with Scalers have the option to 'Perform the scaling on: Display,' while the single input monitors do not.

Asus PB278Q (2014 edition with AHVA panel instead of PLS)


Matte Qnix QX2710


----------



## UNOE

I'm posting this in this thread as well as Catleap thread because I think it maybe helpful to people following both threads and there currently is no other post on any forum I know of that talks about OSX pixel patching. Most post I can find say it can't be done on OSX.....

I finally got past the 84hz limit in OSX this post is for people that use OSX and have overclocking monitors. I don't believe I have found any post where anyone has gone over 84hz for any of these monitors in OSX so I hope this helps someone else.

This will work on any mac with support video card running Yosemite 10.10.0

First off you have to patch the IOkit. Attached is the command.

mac-pixel-clock.zip 4k .zip file


*In terminal :* "sudo macPixelClockPatcher.command"

*Then sign the patch with* "sudo codesign -f -s - /System/Library/Frameworks/IOKit.framework/Versions/A/IOKit"

Now your pixel clock is patched download SwithResX - http://www.madrau.com/srx_download/download.html
With switchresx you can save two resolutions without buying it. After the trial is over you can continue to use those two resolutions but you can never change them again until you purchase the software.

Now the part that I was getting confused about is I was setting the pixel clock in switchresx. But you don't have to do anything here since its already patched just leave that field unchecked.


Then just set your custom resolutions - save and exit then restart - I set the Daemon to open at boot.


Here is the proof


Credit to : the-darkvoid who built this for Yosemite and all the other who contributed here : https://code.google.com/p/mac-pixel-clock-patch/source/clones

*UPDATE :*

The patch above is only for 10.10.0. Here is a new command that should work on updated OS versions (untested). Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

sudo perl -i.bak -pe 's|\xB8\x01\x00\x00\x00\xF6\xC1\x01\x0F\x85|\x33\xC0\x90\x90\x90\x90\x90\x90\x90\xE9|sg' /System/Library/Frameworks/IOKit.framework/Versions/Current/IOKit

sudo codesign -f -s - /System/Library/Frameworks/IOKit.framework/Versions/Current/IOKit


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Just say it to my face if you want me to leave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I must say you kind of convinced me there..


In Leatherneck speak ... "If your feelin' froggy then ..."








Hee Hee ... In all seriousness, I DON'T want you to leave







... we were just looking for a question to help with?
The guys here are great with helpful knowledge. Yea Korean monitors can be a dicey proposition but I think you'll find overall the benefits far outweigh the cons








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kegizm*
> 
> Thanks for the reply man
> 
> I'm from the UK and have no idea who to buy from.
> 
> I was looking at this
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-QHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/221239034169?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item3382dfc139
> 
> Should I go with a Qnix or Xstar? And is it worth going with the perfect pixel option?


X-Star or QNIX? It makes NO difference ... Perfect Pixel? No, but some may disagree








Dream-seller is a popular supplier and is as reliable as "most" others









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I'm Sorry Tomcat I completely missed it


No problem ... lots of good info here, sometimes it takes awhile to track it down









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imaghost03214*
> 
> I did read... and as far as the Mem bus, it has the Mem compression which is been shown to be as good as the wider bus.... I've read, and studied that. Also, far as the panel.. I didn't realize it was such a bad panel.. then why are so many folks on here buying it? meh...and no recommendation for a panel then? Thanks for your assessment. I will think it over. I am moving to the 980's for some of it's features, less power draw, Voxel(when used later) and so on. I don't care.. just want a panel that looks good.. doesn't have to have each and every single little thing perfect....
> Matthew
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *imaghost03214*
> 
> Thanks, for the link.. I still am not sure which one I should pick.,.... What is your thots?
> 
> I am still going to have to do some serious research... there are so many models.. I thinK i've narrowed it down a bit tho. Like I said before.. doens't have to be a perfect OC'er, doesn't have to be perfect veiwing angles, nor perfect stand... just decent/good quality picture for gaming... thats it. nothing fancy.
> Matthew
Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't mean to direct the True10 sarcasm at you, it's kinda an insiders "bain' we have been dealing with for months ... It's really QNIX's fault for using such a lousy/deceptive naming convention









Not that many guys are buying the True10 ... at least not intentionally!









There really aren't that many models, it just seems confusing with all the variable presentations of the Korean re-sellers.
There are only 3 QNIX QX2710 models I know of which are pictured in the link, 1 single-input PLS (the one we recommend) and 2 multi-input AH-VA panels that don't OC beyond 85Hz.

Personally I would take a glossy over matte every time at the same price. Just make sure it is a true glossy and not tempered glass. If you think you'll have problems with reflections then the matte is a safer choice, and it's AG coating is very minimal. Use your glossy laptop or IPhone to simulate a glossy panel for checking your rooms lighting conditions if you think you want the glossy, or if you have owned a glossy previously like me and can easily tell the pictures clarity/quality from a matte screen.

Once you decide, throw up a link to the one your thinking of purchasing and why? You'll get a pretty quick response as to wether that is a good choice or not









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Your wording is very misleading:
> 
> Because the gpu does the scaling. Monitors with Scalers have the option to 'Perform the scaling on: Display,' while the single input monitors do not.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Asus PB278Q (2014 edition with AHVA panel instead of PLS)
> 
> 
> Matte Qnix QX2710


Nice! +R ... thumbnailed








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I'm posting this in this thread as well as Catleap thread because I think it maybe helpful to people following both threads and there currently is no other post on any forum I know of that talks about OSX pixel patching. Most post I can find say it can't be done on OSX.....
> 
> I finally got past the 84hz limit in OSX this post is for people that use OSX and have overclocking monitors. I don't believe I have found any post where anyone has gone over 84hz for any of these monitors in OSX so I hope this helps someone else.
> 
> This will work on any mac with support video card running Yosemite 10.10.0
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First off you have to patch the IOkit. Attached is the command.
> 
> mac-pixel-clock.zip 4k .zip file
> 
> 
> *In terminal :* "sudo macPixelClockPatcher.command"
> 
> *Then sign the patch with* "sudo codesign -f -s - /System/Library/Frameworks/IOKit.framework/Versions/A/IOKit"
> 
> Now your pixel clock is patched download SwithResX - http://www.madrau.com/srx_download/download.html
> With switchresx you can save two resolutions without buying it. After the trial is over you can continue to use those two resolutions but you can never change them again until you purchase the software.
> 
> Now the part that I was getting confused about is I was setting the pixel clock in switchresx. But you don't have to do anything here since its already patched just leave that field unchecked.
> 
> 
> Then just set your custom resolutions - save and exit then restart - I set the Daemon to open at boot.
> 
> 
> Here is the proof
> 
> 
> Credit to : the-darkvoid who built this for Yosemite and all the other who contributed here : https://code.google.com/p/mac-pixel-clock-patch/source/clones


Good info +R ...


----------



## OkanG

Haha, thanks Tom.

I've looked at other Korean monitors thus far, but the Qnix still seems to be my monitor of choice. The Catleap is appealing as well, but it's single input versions have apparently skyrocketed in terms of price recently


----------



## Dry Bonez

how is it possible to develop BLB? when i first got my monitor a month ago,it didnt have any,now suddenly im seeing more and more and its annoying.and i refuse to attempt and fix it since i tried doing that and basically totalling the monitor,in other words,i broke it by trying to fix it via tape mod......ugh.


----------



## imaghost03214

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> http://goo.gl/4ycter
> 
> Get the Qnix/Xstar Matte that only has the DVI-D input.
> It will be a $1000 monitor for $320.
> Just do it. You won't be dissapointed.
> 
> I believe the OP says that this monitor will only work for PC's but that's not true.
> I have personally tested the monitor to work with consoles.
> It will be letterboxed due to the scaler not scaling the 1080p signal up to 1440p but it does work.
> 
> *In fact anyone can personally test this with a click of a button.
> Go into Nvidia Control Panel or Catalyst and simply set the resolution to 1080p.*
> 
> Example of a console hooked up to this monitor:


I sincerely appreciate the insights. Essentially, that was what I am looking for. I'm not a console player, but if I get it, I can test it that way and report back directly later. I'm hoping I get one and it isn't too much of a pain to RMA if ever needed.. lol I think we all face that.

Again, I appreciate the help.

Matthew


----------



## imaghost03214

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> In Leatherneck speak ... "If your feelin' froggy then ..."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hee Hee ... In all seriousness, I DON'T want you to leave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... we were just looking for a question to help with?
> The guys here are great with helpful knowledge. Yea Korean monitors can be a dicey proposition but I think you'll find overall the benefits far outweigh the cons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X-Star or QNIX? It makes NO difference ... Perfect Pixel? No, but some may disagree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dream-seller is a popular supplier and is as reliable as "most" others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problem ... lots of good info here, sometimes it takes awhile to track it down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, didn't mean to direct the True10 sarcasm at you, it's kinda an insiders "bain' we have been dealing with for months ... It's really QNIX's fault for using such a lousy/deceptive naming convention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not that many guys are buying the True10 ... at least not intentionally!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There really aren't that many models, it just seems confusing with all the variable presentations of the Korean re-sellers.
> There are only 3 QNIX QX2710 models I know of which are pictured in the link, 1 single-input PLS (the one we recommend) and 2 multi-input AH-VA panels that don't OC beyond 85Hz.
> 
> Personally I would take a glossy over matte every time at the same price. Just make sure it is a true glossy and not tempered glass. If you think you'll have problems with reflections then the matte is a safer choice, and it's AG coating is very minimal. Use your glossy laptop or IPhone to simulate a glossy panel for checking your rooms lighting conditions if you think you want the glossy, or if you have owned a glossy previously like me and can easily tell the pictures clarity/quality from a matte screen.
> 
> Once you decide, throw up a link to the one your thinking of purchasing and why? You'll get a pretty quick response as to wether that is a good choice or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]Nice! +R ... thumbnailed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good info +R ...


Thanks for more & more info.. I'm not dealing with any sort of reflections, and like you, I prefer gloss'd... that Matte... ahhh yea..negative. There was one recommended in the last page, which is here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710LED-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560x1440-27inch-Computer-Monitor-/330932578190

Now, to locate same item with a decent/reputable re-seller.... that's the thing...







there are so many combinations, and variables in trying to narrow it down to a decent seller vs. panel vs. RMA (if ever needed) though, we all run a risk, when purchasing something like this and I realize that... Come Tuesday, I may purchase one. Along with 2 new cards to push it... the price on 780 ti's, 290x's has dropped quite a bit.. I can get 780 poseidens for $329 each,. no tax... damned good deal if u ask me.

Thanks guys, will stay in touch.

Matthew


----------



## Agent_kenshin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> how is it possible to develop BLB? when i first got my monitor a month ago,it didnt have any,now suddenly im seeing more and more and its annoying.and i refuse to attempt and fix it since i tried doing that and basically totalling the monitor,in other words,i broke it by trying to fix it via tape mod......ugh.


You should check to see of the metal frame holding the panel in is bent. I remember when I bought mine and did the tape mod, it made things worse. The metal frame holding mine in was bent in some areas and bending it flat fixed my issues. You can find out more info on this here http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent_kenshin*
> 
> You should check to see of the metal frame holding the panel in is bent. I remember when I bought mine and did the tape mod, it made things worse. The metal frame holding mine in was bent in some areas and bending it flat fixed my issues. You can find out more info on this here http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


sadly dont understand it.listen bro,i have 2 qnix,one is messed up from me trying to fix the BLB,i am horrible at opening things up.i ended up breaking it.as far as metal frames.i dont get it because when i opened it up the first time,i see these rails on the side,is that what yall mean? then of course theres the actual frame that connected to the screen itself.and thats what im not going to touch because to take off the frame,you have to use a flat head screw driver to detach it from the screen and that is exactly how i messed up my monitor and i work too hard to throw away money like that again.it just sux that i developed BLB........but on a side not,lets say i decide to debezel,wwill i have to do something similar? or just remove the front cover?


----------



## imaghost03214

Question.....

Listen. I am by no means a monitor expert... so forgive me if it seems so obvious that a product is a no go to you all... remember, some of us are still climbing the ladder.... With that....

This has multiple inputs, which is says it has a 6ms lag... I can only imagine, that it actually may have a higher lag with multiple inputs... this may have been crossed out somewhere, but through the thousands of pages, I don't know if I saw it in there.... just a quick look. yes, or no? remember, Just looking for good graphics... dont care bout looks, stands, viewing angles.. nothing like that. but if it doesnt over clock, is it really a problem that it doesn't go more than 60hz? hardware I have would certainly be able to push it. picking up either dual 780 posiedens, 780 ti's, just maybe... dual 290x's....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111309673435?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

.Thanks again....

Da' Ghost


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imaghost03214*
> 
> Question....


Read the first post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imaghost03214*
> 
> I sincerely appreciate the insights.


He's wrong, read this post.


----------



## imaghost03214

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Read the first post.
> He's wrong, read this post.


lol... oh wow... so who is there to believe, and have credible info to follow with?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imaghost03214*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Read the first post.
> He's wrong, read this post.
> 
> 
> 
> lol... oh wow... so who is there to believe, and have credible info to follow with?
Click to expand...

Don't believe me.
I was wrong.

The GPU was infact doing the work I thought it wasn't doing.

I'm still confused because a console also has a GPU.
What would be the difference other than the consoles have no ways to select fullscreen scaling like you can on PC?

I need to find the stupid DVI to HDMI adapter and take a pic with my phone.


----------



## Abadaman

Hi guys,

i have a question regarding X-Stars Dream-Seller is selling, specifically http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27inch-Computer-Monitor/321135502506?rt=nc and http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710LED-Samsung-PLS-Panel-2560-x-1440-WQHD-27-Monitor-/221362461331?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item338a3b1a93 , are they the same, one of them has ** in the name, i wonder if its premium quality? I am thinking of ordering one but want matte one, as i dont like reflective screens, i wrote to Dream-Seller regarding this few days ago but he has not replied since then. Also should i stick to matte and dont speculate between matte or glossy? Is there enough improvement in vibrance and blacks that should make me choose glossy over matte even if i dont like starting at reflections?

Thank You,

Peter


----------



## titan2620

So I'd like to buy either a Glossy X-Star / Glossy Qnix (Non-Tempered Glass). Are these monitors still selling or are they out and are being listed as glossy even though they're actually the matte version.

Dreamseller appears to be selling one for a slight premium ($30) which I don't mind: http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710LED-WQHD-2560x1440-Glossy-Samsung-PLS-/221563893459?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item33963cb6d3

But if this monitor is the same as the matte, there's a better deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titan2620*
> 
> So I'd like to buy either a Glossy X-Star / Glossy Qnix (Non-Tempered Glass). Are these monitors still selling or are they out and are being listed as glossy even though they're actually the matte version.
> 
> Dreamseller appears to be selling one for a slight premium ($30) which I don't mind: http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710LED-WQHD-2560x1440-Glossy-Samsung-PLS-/221563893459?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item33963cb6d3
> 
> But if this monitor is the same as the matte, there's a better deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions?


I asked accessorieswhole about this, he/she/they claimed it was a true glossy, and NOT a tempered glass. It's worth a shot I guess, you can always demand a refund if you specifically request a true glossy and get something else.

here's the answer:

"Hi

Thanks for contacting us.

It is Glossy panel, not matte panel with tempered glass~

If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you.

- accessorieswhole"


----------



## SeanEboy

Just thought I would make a PSA about the triple monitor stand I purchased back in February, saw it pop up in my Amazon feed and it reminded me. This is the one I got, I think it might've been on sale when I bought it..? Anyway, this is it:http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Monitor-Standing-Supports-002-0020/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=pd_ys_sf_s_rp_a1_2_p?ie=UTF8&refRID=15N2EHZS6SBSF6SNN426

I paid $103, free shipping. Looks like this deal is still around, if not the $79+20 shipping is about the same.

It's build like a brick *#$&house, and very sturdy, DESPITE the fact that I have NOT anchored it to my desk by anything other than gravity. Furthermore, I'm running (3) Qnix, in PORTRAIT, so not sure if that would make it less stable than landscape, but I have bumped it numerous times, and it does not budge. However, the end will certainly cut into your arm if you do not have the plastic cap on there. So, it cuts skin before it moves on my desk, I'd say I'm a happy camper.

EDIT::: My one gripe with this unit, was I had to buy my own screws to fit the monitor. All the screws provided were too long, so I went to the hardware store and picked up my own. I forget the size, sorry.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Just thought I would make a PSA about the triple monitor stand I purchased back in February, saw it pop up in my Amazon feed and it reminded me. This is the one I got, I think it might've been on sale when I bought it..? Anyway, this is it:http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Monitor-Standing-Supports-002-0020/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=pd_ys_sf_s_rp_a1_2_p?ie=UTF8&refRID=15N2EHZS6SBSF6SNN426
> 
> I paid $103, free shipping. Looks like this deal is still around, if not the $79+20 shipping is about the same.
> 
> It's build like a brick *#$&house, and very sturdy, DESPITE the fact that I have NOT anchored it to my desk by anything other than gravity. Furthermore, I'm running (3) Qnix, in PORTRAIT, so not sure if that would make it less stable than landscape, but I have bumped it numerous times, and it does not budge. However, the end will certainly cut into your arm if you do not have the plastic cap on there. So, it cuts skin before it moves on my desk, I'd say I'm a happy camper.
> 
> EDIT::: My one gripe with this unit, was I had to buy my own screws to fit the monitor. All the screws provided were too long, so I went to the hardware store and picked up my own. I forget the size, sorry.


Have a similar issue with the Arm Mount I just bought and the screws being too long by like 1/4".. The mounting inserts must be short or something if its a common issue..
In lieu of buying new screws I am planning on just putting some spaces in.. (a nut and washers).. I will see if that works.. I got them around the house where as new screws would be a trip to the hardware store..

I will post some pictures in a few days when I actually get it set up.


----------



## SeanEboy

I'm not sure if my stand came with them or not, but I did have some black plastic spacers with mine. However they were too long, I tried cutting one in half before just buying screws.. I think they were M4, and I forget the length.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## JMattes

Looks like its slow OCN day haha.. not much discussing going on..

Got a question.. I don't have back back light bleed as far as I can tell, nothing that noticeably that bothers me at least.. I did notice that the bezel doesn't sit 100% flat and there is a gap in the center at both the top and bottom, which doesn't bother me either.. I didnt poke it for another other play haha..

However, I would like to remove the stand from the back of the monitor and I need to prop the monitor up about an 1/8" as the screen shifted down..
So basically I need to take the whole dang thing apart.. While I am at it should I tape the metal frame for extra prevention against back light bleed?

Also I noticed the screen shots in the OP about eliminating play and he had one quick post about adding a spacer or more tape basically so it sat higher..
Anyone got a youtube video on it? Just don't want to mess up this amazing display and with my current luck.. (broke a compression fitting inside my rad as the pump was running with a full loop)
I want to be dang sure I dont mess it up haha..

I could technically live with the stand still attached when thought I will have it mounted, but the 1/8" cut off at the bottom bothers me..


----------



## desiromeo

So I just received the other Qnix monitor I bought from amazon and returned the one from newegg. This monitor is gorgeous and has no dead pixels or backlight bleed. Its awesome and works fine. Now I wanted to start messing with overclocking and did read the other thread but still wanted to make sure that it was necessary to install the qnix driver for the monitor before I use NVCP to overclock?

[edit]- so I was able to set up a custom resolution using nvcp without installing the qnix driver for the monitor because windows 8.1 wouldn't let me install them even with driver enforcement off, as it keeps saying the driver is upto date. Would the qnix driver allow me to overclock higher? cuz unfortunately I was only able to get 96hz without any artifacts. Going to 110hz gives me slight green lines only on the top edge of the monitor. Going to 120hz makes the whole monitor green. Any other recommendations besides buying a new dvi-d cable?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> So I just received the other Qnix monitor I bought from amazon and returned the one from newegg. This monitor is gorgeous and has no dead pixels or backlight bleed. Its awesome and works fine. Now I wanted to start messing with overclocking and did read the other thread but still wanted to make sure that it was necessary to install the qnix driver for the monitor before I use NVCP to overclock?
> 
> [edit]- so I was able to set up a custom resolution using nvcp without installing the qnix driver for the monitor because windows 8.1 wouldn't let me install them even with driver enforcement off, as it keeps saying the driver is upto date. Would the qnix driver allow me to overclock higher? cuz unfortunately I was only able to get 96hz without any artifacts. Going to 110hz gives me slight green lines only on the top edge of the monitor. Going to 120hz makes the whole monitor green. Any other recommendations besides buying a new dvi-d cable?


No, the driver doesn't help the overclock, just allows the monitor to be properly identified. New cable may help, some it does, some it doesn't. What video card are you using?


----------



## desiromeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> No, the driver doesn't help the overclock, just allows the monitor to be properly identified. New cable may help, some it does, some it doesn't. What video card are you using?


I have an asus gtx 970. I havent overclocked it yet..maybe that will help?


----------



## wntrsnowg

Updated the OP with the Mac OSx overclocking info and also that the True10 monitors have been reported to OC to roughly 85 Hz


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> I have an asus gtx 970. I havent overclocked it yet..maybe that will help?


No, I don't thing OCing the video card will help any. Some have had issues with the GTX 970 and OCing the Qnix monitor. You may want to search this thread for the GTX 970, you may find something useful.


----------



## Strileckifunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> So I just received the other Qnix monitor I bought from amazon and returned the one from newegg. This monitor is gorgeous and has no dead pixels or backlight bleed. Its awesome and works fine. Now I wanted to start messing with overclocking and did read the other thread but still wanted to make sure that it was necessary to install the qnix driver for the monitor before I use NVCP to overclock?
> 
> [edit]- so I was able to set up a custom resolution using nvcp without installing the qnix driver for the monitor because windows 8.1 wouldn't let me install them even with driver enforcement off, as it keeps saying the driver is upto date. Would the qnix driver allow me to overclock higher? cuz unfortunately I was only able to get 96hz without any artifacts. Going to 110hz gives me slight green lines only on the top edge of the monitor. Going to 120hz makes the whole monitor green. Any other recommendations besides buying a new dvi-d cable?


That may be your limit. When I had AMD and needed to patch the drivers, I was still getting 110mhz top, but some image burn in after awhile, so I dropped it to 96. I'm getting the same results directly through NVCPs custom resolution.


----------



## daviejams

I just ordered the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II there the now , will be delivered in a couple of days

I noticed it has a virtual 4k feature on it - never heard of this before can someone explain it to me ?

I have a crossover Korean also which is actually beautiful so hope this one is just as good

Should be in the UK in a couple of days


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> I just ordered the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II there the now , will be delivered in a couple of days
> 
> I noticed it has a virtual 4k feature on it - never heard of this before can someone explain it to me ?
> 
> I have a crossover Korean also which is actually beautiful so hope this one is just as good
> 
> Should be in the UK in a couple of days


I think it just means that it accepts 4k and scales it down. so you can watch 4k material,but in 2560x1440.
I am assuming you bought the mutli TRUE 10 monitor?


----------



## Darkmader

Another guy who's monitor "popped" and is probably dead within 6 months. I tried to search but couldn't find it and I know it's been posted a few times here. I think Lawson was the first to post it but I'm looking for the ebay power brick that's like $13 bucks or whatever (USA) that's better than the stock one. Better to be safe than sorry as I'm picking up a 970 and will be using the monitor more than my HTPC soon.


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I think it just means that it accepts 4k and scales it down. so you can watch 4k material,but in 2560x1440.
> I am assuming you bought the mutli TRUE 10 monitor?


Yeah the true 10 one I ordered. I don't plan on overclocking it


----------



## Captaincaveman

Might be worth adding to sticky (not sure if it's there or not):

Display port to DVI-D adapters:

1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111352794101?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00856WJH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've bought both adapters and both are working with my QNIX.
The only difference I can see is the price. One is 50$ and the other is 95$.
Both won't let me overclock the monitor connected using them. Not surprising since they both claim 330MHZ pixel clock rate.

When I asked about an adapter I was given link to the Accell (the 95$) and bought it, later I got my hands on the Bizlink and found out it worked as well for about half the price.


----------



## llamadal

Hi guys,

i'm sure this has been asked and answered somewhere in the 2000 odd pages.

I have the qnix evo 2 with the single display port - fantastic monitor but I've since swapped to the rog swift due to a fair few fps games i want to play and gsyncs pretty awesome.

Anyway i'd like to give this monitor to my partner she would be swapping between a couple of laptops, both have HDMI.

Can I use a DVI-D to HDMI cable to get this to work with basic functionality? If not then is their anyway for her to use it with the latops.

Many thanks guys


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamadal*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i'm sure this has been asked and answered somewhere in the 2000 odd pages.
> 
> I have the qnix evo 2 with the single display port - fantastic monitor but I've since swapped to the rog swift due to a fair few fps games i want to play and gsyncs pretty awesome.
> 
> Anyway i'd like to give this monitor to my partner she would be swapping between a couple of laptops, both have HDMI.
> 
> Can I use a DVI-D to HDMI cable to get this to work with basic functionality? If not then is their anyway for her to use it with the latops.
> 
> Many thanks guys


First off, I assume you mean a single DVI port? Displayport is a different kind of connection.

Second: There has been some experimenting with HDMI to DVI on these monitors, try searching this forum for HDMI.


----------



## bijan588

I just ruined mine by leaving a cable loose during a nap. I'm pretty ******* pissed off.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamadal*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i'm sure this has been asked and answered somewhere in the 2000 odd pages.
> 
> I have the qnix evo 2 with the single display port - fantastic monitor but I've since swapped to the rog swift due to a fair few fps games i want to play and gsyncs pretty awesome.
> 
> Anyway i'd like to give this monitor to my partner she would be swapping between a couple of laptops, both have HDMI.
> 
> Can I use a DVI-D to HDMI cable to get this to work with basic functionality? If not then is their anyway for her to use it with the latops.
> 
> Many thanks guys


Since HDMI is compatible with DVI, I would think it would work. If its at least HDMI 1.3 output on the Laptop, then it should be good up to 1600p. However, the sellers of these Korean monitors say it is not compatible with Laptops, or anything other than DVI-D and dedicated graphics cards. I think the best you can do is get an HDMI to DVI-D adapter and check it yourself.

EDIT: Did you say DVI-D or DisplayPort? It looks like your saying both in your reply. If its a DisplayPort monitor, I am not sure, if its a DVI-D monitor than it "should" work theoretically, lol.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> I just ruined mine by leaving a cable loose during a nap. I'm pretty ******* pissed off.


Sorry to ear that man.. try unplugging it for awhile or running a black screen over night..
How long was that nap man!?

How bad is this burn in on the monitors?


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> I just ruined mine by leaving a cable loose during a nap. I'm pretty ******* pissed off.


can you please elaborate on your situation?

In another note, I found a dead pixel today... UGH now i'm so anal about it

Luckily it's down in the bottom right corner, about 1 inch from the bottom and 1.75 from the right side.

Could overclocking my monitor have caused this?

yes it's possibly that I haven't noticed it until now but I swear I gave this thing a pretty hard look a few times and didn't notice anything. I'm pretty sure the pixel just died a day or two ago. It's been overclocked for a few days now.


----------



## BTK

just ordered this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1NB1871
now to wait for a good GPU in 015 to go along with it


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BTK*
> 
> just ordered this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1NB1871
> now to wait for a good GPU in 015 to go along with it


Are you planning to overclock your refresh rate? If you are then that is the wrong model. If not, thats not a bad price.


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmader*
> 
> Another guy who's monitor "popped" and is probably dead within 6 months. I tried to search but couldn't find it and I know it's been posted a few times here. I think Lawson was the first to post it but I'm looking for the ebay power brick that's like $13 bucks or whatever (USA) that's better than the stock one. Better to be safe than sorry as I'm picking up a 970 and will be using the monitor more than my HTPC soon.


I bookmarked this one last time it came up. I don't have it, but the original poster of the link was happy with his: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?


----------



## bijan588

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> can you please elaborate on your situation?
> 
> In another note, I found a dead pixel today... UGH now i'm so anal about it
> 
> Luckily it's down in the bottom right corner, about 1 inch from the bottom and 1.75 from the right side.
> 
> Could overclocking my monitor have caused this?
> 
> yes it's possibly that I haven't noticed it until now but I swear I gave this thing a pretty hard look a few times and didn't notice anything. I'm pretty sure the pixel just died a day or two ago. It's been overclocked for a few days now.


The DVI cable was ajar, so those lines were there as a full signal could not be established.

I believe the root cause is due to the PCB not having a proper refresh rate, running who knows mow much current through the panel. Its very much like the image retention we se when we overclock, but it doesn't go away.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> The DVI cable was ajar, so those lines were there as a full signal could not be established.
> 
> I believe the root cause is due to the PCB not having a proper refresh rate, running who knows mow much current through the panel. Its very much like the image retention we se when we overclock, but it doesn't go away.


gotcha, I was unaware that could happen


----------



## BTK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Are you planning to overclock your refresh rate? If you are then that is the wrong model. If not, thats not a bad price.


I guess not then its okay thought lol


----------



## blade7115

Just got my qnix a day ago and it is BEAUTIFUL. Now I've tried overclocking my monitor and it's been able to go up to 110 Hz and it feels a lot smoother than 60 Hz, the only problem is that I'm worried that the life span of my monitor will be drasticly reduced due to the overclock. I've overclocked my cpu and gpu before but this is the first time I've ever done/heard of overclocking a monitor. Is it generally safe to overclock the qnix monitor or not? I'm keeping it at 60 Hz until I'm certain.


----------



## bijan588

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> gotcha, I was unaware that could happen


I dont think anyone is, it would be nice if there was a spot on the front page with the warning so people dont leave the panel on this screen.


----------



## BTK

on another how long does the order verification take a newegg from mnw global one my orders got past that in 2 min but this monitor says order verification on the other hand i got an email saying order verification is now complete so should u trust the newegg page or my email


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> The DVI cable was ajar, so those lines were there as a full signal could not be established.
> 
> I believe the root cause is due to the PCB not having a proper refresh rate, running who knows mow much current through the panel. Its very much like the image retention we se when we overclock, but it doesn't go away.


Is your panel still under warranty? Maybe you can get it replaced? If not, maybe you can purchase just the panel itself for a fraction of the cost of a new monitor?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade7115*
> 
> Just got my qnix a day ago and it is BEAUTIFUL. Now I've tried overclocking my monitor and it's been able to go up to 110 Hz and it feels a lot smoother than 60 Hz, the only problem is that I'm worried that the life span of my monitor will be drasticly reduced due to the overclock. I've overclocked my cpu and gpu before but this is the first time I've ever done/heard of overclocking a monitor. Is it generally safe to overclock the qnix monitor or not? I'm keeping it at 60 Hz until I'm certain.


As long as you keep the pixel clock below 450MHz it is rated for, I wouldn't expect any problems.


----------



## kapnobatai

Hi guys, anyone tested it with a GIGABYTE GTX970 G1 'cause it seems it has serious problems (last post) : https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/780349/geforce-900-series/gigabyte-gtx-970-g1-dvi-i-port-dvi-no-signal-vga-full-signal/

Please help, urgent feedback needed, I m planning to buy the G1 these days and use it with a Xstar DP2710 but with this problem, I don t know...


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> Hi guys, anyone tested it with a GIGABYTE GTX970 G1 'cause it seems it has serious problems (last post) : https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/780349/geforce-900-series/gigabyte-gtx-970-g1-dvi-i-port-dvi-no-signal-vga-full-signal/
> 
> Please help, urgent feedback needed, I m planning to buy the G1 these days and use it with a Xstar DP2710 but with this problem, I don t know...


Not a direct solution but why not just buy the MSI or ASUS version for $20 cheaper?


----------



## kapnobatai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Not a direct solution but why not just buy the MSI or ASUS version for $20 cheaper?


well, I thought about the MSI 4g first , but G1 has better temps, higher OC and backplate. I will go for the MSI if G1 has these issues (plus, I ve read somewhere that G1 can t use the both DVI-I at the same time, which is outrageous - still have to verify this)


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> well, I thought about the MSI 4g first , but G1 has better temps, higher OC and backplate. I will go for the MSI if G1 has these issues (plus, I ve read somewhere that G1 can t use the both DVI-I at the same time, which is outrageous - still have to verify this)


I have a G1 and have monitors plugged into the DVI and DVI-D and both monitors work.. Am I missing something?


----------



## bluedevil

Okay, switched to a 970, now my timing are off. How do I get the same timings with a Nvidia card?

Here is my AMD settings.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## Ovrclck

Edit


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## Ovrclck

@bluedevil

Default timings for 96/110Hz will allow for downclocking. No need to mess with timings. Only once you push 120Hz.
With Nvidia, use nvcp and no patch.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## kapnobatai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I have a G1 and have monitors plugged into the DVI and DVI-D and both monitors work.. Am I missing something?


No, many thanks for the reply. I was worried because others feedback. it s great news that G1 works with both of your koreans. which one of the monitors do you have, please?


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> No, many thanks for the reply. I was worried because others feedback. it s great news that G1 works with both of your koreans. which one of the monitors do you have, please?


Kapnobatai, maybe I miss spoke, but I would like to clarify.
At the moment my QNIX Evolution II is being disassembled to be reseated..
I have two 1080p monitors plugs into the DVI and DVI-D ports right now..

I wouldn't see why that would change anything when one of those Monitors changes to the QNIX.

I actually ordered some new cables this morning tho and will be plugging everything except the QNIX into the Displayports.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> @bluedevil
> 
> Default timings for 96/110Hz will allow for downclocking. No need to mess with timings. Only once you push 120Hz.
> With Nvidia, use nvcp and no patch.


I got it at 100hz now with reduced timings. I am good now.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## Phantatsy

Well... My PCB came in the mail today. Guess who's monitor still doesn't work...


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Well... My PCB came in the mail today. Guess who's monitor still doesn't work...


WHAT?

Woah, now THAT really sucks... Now, do you think it must be a bad panel, bad tcon board, bad power brick or you got a bad PCB replacement? Man I feel for you, really I do... Sorry to hear this sad news.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> WHAT?
> 
> Woah, now THAT really sucks... Now, do you think it must be a bad panel, bad tcon board, bad power brick or you got a bad PCB replacement? Man I feel for you, really I do... Sorry to hear this sad news.


My first guess before QNIX said it was a bad PCB was that it was the cables as the only thing I did from when it was working to when it wasn't working was sleeve the cables. (Was going to debezel and I'm OCD like that.)

But I wasn't going to pass on getting a new PCB to try out in hope that it worked, which it did not. I am awaiting their response to see if I can get cables sent. If those don't work. Something else is wrong and I'm not going to bother fixing it. Unless the seller (accessorieswhole) decides to send me a whole new unit; granted I refuse to ship anything back to Korea at this point. It took 3 weeks for my old PCB to get to them, but only 3 days to get from them to me?!


----------



## ebhsimon

I read that when overclocking with AMD and 8.1, the monitor overclocks but the refresh rate in the system will still show at 60 fps, which is why UFOtest doesn't work for 8.1 users (Eg me).

Is there anything else I can use to quatify my overclocks? I can qualitatively tell that it looks super smooth, but with the release of youtube's 60 FPS videos it looks just as smooth as when I play at 110hz.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> My first guess before QNIX said it was a bad PCB was that it was the cables as the only thing I did from when it was working to when it wasn't working was sleeve the cables. (Was going to debezel and I'm OCD like that.)
> 
> But I wasn't going to pass on getting a new PCB to try out in hope that it worked, which it did not. I am awaiting their response to see if I can get cables sent. If those don't work. Something else is wrong and I'm not going to bother fixing it. Unless the seller (accessorieswhole) decides to send me a whole new unit; granted I refuse to ship anything back to Korea at this point. It took 3 weeks for my old PCB to get to them, but only 3 days to get from them to me?!


Well please keep us informed of the outcome. I hope you get it fixed


----------



## xliquidx

So im guessing once you adjust the timings at 120hz it pegs the gpu usage at idle? No way to fix it unless multi profiles for 2d/3d states with nvidia?


----------



## daviejams

Just had a look on UPS my UNIX is in Edinburgh now , so might get it today

Not bad - ordered it on Tuesday there so that would be two days from South Korea.


----------



## ebhsimon

Just tried to turn the monitor into a 21:9 aspect ratio 2560 * 1080 monitor. It works in desktop, but when it comes to full screening games holy heck it just squishes it. Do not recommend.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Here's what I got with Bulletstorm.
I didn't edit anything.


----------



## niciuffo

I just reinstalled Windows 7, but after creating my 120hz custom resolution in the nvCP, I can't see it in Color Sustainer (only 59Hz and 60Hz). I tried rebooting the system and resintalling Color Sustainer with no lock. My only option is to use the global mode, which is not the best solution for me.


----------



## dwaynedibley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> My first guess before QNIX said it was a bad PCB was that it was the cables as the only thing I did from when it was working to when it wasn't working was sleeve the cables. (Was going to debezel and I'm OCD like that.)
> 
> But I wasn't going to pass on getting a new PCB to try out in hope that it worked, which it did not. I am awaiting their response to see if I can get cables sent. If those don't work. Something else is wrong and I'm not going to bother fixing it. Unless the seller (accessorieswhole) decides to send me a whole new unit; granted I refuse to ship anything back to Korea at this point. It took 3 weeks for my old PCB to get to them, but only 3 days to get from them to me?!


+1 gutted for you :-(
Same thing happened to me, but I forked out for the replacement PCB.
Monitor still sitting there in a pile of expensive bits and I haven't got a foggiest for what's up with it.
Tried a new power brick, DVI cable, but no cigar.

Have put it down to an expensive lesson learnt. I know lots of you are happy but I'll never directly buy a Korean pile of bull-crap again.
Bought one of these in the end and bar a little bit of BLB, I couldn't be happier - http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MO-167-SA&groupid=17&catid=1120
At least now I've got Korean bull-crap with an existent warranty ;-) Oh wait, its Samsung...


----------



## BTK

received my qnix its awesome to say the least massive upgrade from 1680x1050


----------



## OkanG

Time to order! What Vesa stand should I order with it? Or to elaborate, do all Vesa mounts/stands work with the monitor? Looking for something for a single Qnix, preferably with height adjustment from amazon.co.uk


----------



## caenlen

Anyone ever tried to return there monitor? I bought a second monitor has about 80+ dead pixels, I tried shipping it back but up[s and fedex cheapest option is $351 to south korea from indiana...

thats more than I paid for the monitor... is there anyway around this? please help


----------



## funfordcobra

That's why they call it the monitor lottery. You either win or lose. I have a string of dead dark pixels too on the bottom right of the screen. It had no back light bleed and clocked to 120hz so I just dealt with it.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> Anyone ever tried to return there monitor? I bought a second monitor has about 80+ dead pixels, I tried shipping it back but up[s and fedex cheapest option is $351 to south korea from indiana...
> 
> thats more than I paid for the monitor... is there anyway around this? please help


The seller I bought mine from wants me to return it for a full refund but I am seriously doubting I'm going to shipping it to them if its going to cost that much. There is no way.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> Anyone ever tried to return there monitor? I bought a second monitor has about 80+ dead pixels, I tried shipping it back but up[s and fedex cheapest option is $351 to south korea from indiana...
> 
> thats more than I paid for the monitor... is there anyway around this? please help


If it's that bad you should be able to get the seller to pay return shipping. What kind of pixel warranty does your seller have? I've had to return 2 and the seller paid the shipping on both.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> Anyone ever tried to return there monitor? I bought a second monitor has about 80+ dead pixels, I tried shipping it back but up[s and fedex cheapest option is $351 to south korea from indiana...
> 
> thats more than I paid for the monitor... is there anyway around this? please help
> 
> 
> 
> If it's that bad you should be able to get the seller to pay return shipping. What kind of pixel warranty does your seller have? I've had to return 2 and the seller paid the shipping on both.
Click to expand...

If you receive a non-functioning monitor, and certainly - if what you say is the truth - 80 dead pixels counts as non-functioning, then the seller should pay return shipping.

You should be able to provide proof to the seller of the defect - to show to the seller your not a scammer - and then request he pay return shipping or you just keep the monitor if the lowest shipping option costs more than the monitor itself.
Quote:


> About pixel warranty policy
> With Perfect pixel option, 0~2 dead pixel is possible.
> Normal ones, up to 5pixels can be found and allowed.
> We define dead pixel as 'bright dot' in the dark.
> Dark dot and stuck pixel is not considered as dead pixel. BRIGHT DOT ONLY


That is the warranty from my seller but I take this as a statement of if you have 6 dead pixels they have to be all bright pixels.
If I was denied a refund on 80 dead pixels - no matter the color - I certainly wouldn't buy from them again or recommend them to anyone.


----------



## daviejams

My monitor that I ordered on Tuesday is out for delivery today

Excellent , I'll get a good play with it at the weekend

Edit - it has arrived

£46.10 duty I had to pay though


----------



## OkanG

My monitor from ebay and vesa mount from amazon have been dispatched already!


----------



## daviejams

How do you force the virtual 2160p on the Qnix Evolution II with an AMD card ?

All set up now - very nice. Can't see any dead pixels


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> How do you force the virtual 2160p on the Qnix Evolution II with an AMD card ?
> 
> All set up now - very nice. Can't see any dead pixels


I found one on mine a few days ago, pretty bummed about it : (


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> How do you force the virtual 2160p on the Qnix Evolution II with an AMD card ?
> 
> All set up now - very nice. Can't see any dead pixels


I may be wrong but I don't think you can.

The monitors are listed like the monitor provides virtual 4K when in fact the virtual 4K is provided by the graphics card with DSR and DSR is a proprietary feature of Nvidia cards.

Unless it actually is provided by the monitor, then it's a gimmick advertisement that is borderline false advertisement.


----------



## OkanG

Can "Perfect Pixel" be trusted? I ordered a glossy single input model from AccessoriesWhole through eBay, and I'm quite concerned about dead pixels, considerable light bleed etc.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Can "Perfect Pixel" be trusted? I ordered a glossy single input model from AccessoriesWhole through eBay, and I'm quite concerned about dead pixels, considerable light bleed etc.


From what I've heard it's basically a scam.

Essentially you will get the same experience on average if you don't buy the perfect pixel one.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I may be wrong but I don't think you can.
> 
> The monitors are listed like the monitor provides virtual 4K when in fact the virtual 4K is provided by the graphics card with DSR and DSR is a proprietary feature of Nvidia cards.
> 
> Unless it actually is provided by the monitor, then it's a gimmick advertisement that is borderline false advertisement.


Nope, it actually lets you set the resolution to 4K, but it's blurry as hell.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Oh that's kind of cool.

Why would someone ask this question tho?
Quote:


> How do you force the virtual 2160p on the Qnix Evolution II with an AMD card ?


What would the GPU have to do with anything?


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> I may be wrong but I don't think you can.
> 
> The monitors are listed like the monitor provides virtual 4K when in fact the virtual 4K is provided by the graphics card with DSR and DSR is a proprietary feature of Nvidia cards.
> 
> Unless it actually is provided by the monitor, then it's a gimmick advertisement that is borderline false advertisement.


Pretty sure they were advertising it before Nvida brought out the DSR thing , I was wanting to see how it worked

This is the monitor I have
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I found one on mine a few days ago, pretty bummed about it : (


Well it's only one , I could handle that but I bet you notice it all the time now you know it's there


----------



## joshkope

Is this amount of backlight bleed normal?

I got this response from the seller when I sent the photos to them:






Hi

Thanks for your photos.

Due to IPS panel characteristics, it may have bit of uneven color on the screen, but it is not considered as defects.
For high resolution monitor with slim panel, it is normal to have this amount of backlight bleeding..
The backlight bleeding issue looks more serious when look from a photo.
Hope for your understanding.
You may post these photos on forum and check the reply from other viewers.

We will wait for your reply.
If there is any issue, please let us know.
Thank you.


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Nope, it actually lets you set the resolution to 4K, but it's blurry as hell.


Do you know how to do it with an AMD card ?

kennyparker - apparently with Nvidia cards it shows in the screen resolutions you can select but with AMD cards you have to do something else. What that is I don't know


----------



## Nurffe

Okey guys I need little bit help with color profiles.. I tried loading color profile using "color sustainer" but it keeps switching between color profiles every second if I associate color profile with monitor and click "start". It's like on and off every second. Something keeps overriding color sustainer color profile and color sustainer forces it back every seconds

I also tried changing settings using nvidia control panel by choosing "use nvidia settings" and sliding brightness / contrast / gamma and I can see that for second when I move slider, colors are changing but after second something overrides and colors are reseted.

I checked my windows color management and there is no default profiles set for monitor and under advanced color management "use windows calibration" is unchecked

Does someone have any idea what keeps resettings my color settings to "default"? I'm out of options here

win 7 64bit
and yes I've tried running color sustainer as administrator and nvidia control panel using admin rights, still keeps resetting every second after changing colors


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> This screen is advertised as being able to support overclocked refresh rates up to 120Hz. We tested the QX2710 LED Evolution II DPmulti TRUE10 and it was easy enough to create custom resolutions and refresh rates which the monitor accepted. An image was displayed fine at 2560 x 1440 resolution and at 75, 100 and 120Hz refresh rates. We tested these over both DL-DVI and DisplayPort. Although the image was displayed, frames were unfortunately dropped in all cases, meaning this was all rather pointless. Some artefacts were also visible in some situations. It didn't seem to allow any useful overclocking beyond 60Hz sadly. Maybe results will vary with other models in the range of single input variants as some people have reported. The specified ability to overclock up to 120Hz is somewhat misleading for this particular model though.


If only if only the frames were kept.








Quote:


> The screen can also support "virtual 4k" resolutions if you have a suitable graphics card and set up a custom resolution to send to the panel (30Hz maximum refresh rate at 3840 x 2160). This seems to be a current trend with some manufacturers so that they can advertise their screen as supporting 4k resolution, but without actually providing a native 4k panel. It's a bit misleading in our opinion and buyers should watch out for it. We tried it on the QX2710 out of interest but fail to see any real use for it. The high resolution just gets scaled by the panel back down to the 2560 x 1440 pixels which make up the panel. As a result you lose sharpness and clarity and text looks more blurry. It is also far too high a resolution we feel for a 27" screen, making everything miniscule and hard to see. 2560 x 1440 is enough we feel for a 27" sized screen, and 4k really needs a bigger screen to make it at all practical. Add to this also that you are limited to using a 30Hz refresh rate and it's not a great feature.


Yea so I was technically right.

The best kind of right.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Is this amount of backlight bleed normal?
> 
> I got this response from the seller when I sent the photos to them:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2232588/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2232589/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2232590/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2232591/width/350/height/700
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks for your photos.
> 
> Due to IPS panel characteristics, it may have bit of uneven color on the screen, but it is not considered as defects.
> For high resolution monitor with slim panel, it is normal to have this amount of backlight bleeding..
> The backlight bleeding issue looks more serious when look from a photo.
> Hope for your understanding.
> You may post these photos on forum and check the reply from other viewers.
> 
> We will wait for your reply.
> If there is any issue, please let us know.
> Thank you.


IMHO yes.

Mine may be worse then yours but it's a one of the cons you have to accept for getting an extremely low priced monitor.
It personally doesn't bother me unless I'm viewing a very dark scene.

If you are brave enough some of the backlight bleed can be fixed by opening up the monitor (check OP for more info).


----------



## daviejams

I just want to try it out of interest , I've downloaded a 2160p video.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> I just want to try it out of interest , I've downloaded a 2160p video.


If I knew I definitely would tell you.
*edit: Should be the same as Nvidia. Create a custom resolution in Catalyst for 30Hz 4K.*
I would try it out as well.
Just want to point at that either way you play the video it will be downscaled to 2560x1440 because is max amount of pixels the panel can display.

Quote:


> Graphic Card Chipset that Support Virtaul 4K(3840x2160)
> NVIDIA G-Force - GTX650, GTX660, GTX670, GTX750, GTX760, GTX770, GTX780, GTX Titan
> AMD(ATI) RADEON - HD7730, HD7750, HD7770, HD7790, HD7850, HD7950, HD7970, HD7990
> R7 260X, R7 265
> R9 270, R9 270X, R9 280X, R9 290, R9 290X


----------



## CroSsFiRe2009

I officially have the worst luck with monitors.
My previous issue with getting a true 10 instead of the single input one from accessories whole should be resolved with a full refund. Still need to send it back
Ended up ordering from green sum . Monitor oc's great to 120hz with no frame skip except i just noticed a splotch dead center. About 10pixelx10pixel splotch. Varying shades of black. Seems like dead pixels... -.-



http://imgur.com/iZeaf


is it dead pixels or dirt?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CroSsFiRe2009*
> 
> I officially have the worst luck with monitors.
> My previous issue with getting a true 10 instead of the single input one from accessories whole should be resolved with a full refund. Still need to send it back
> Ended up ordering from green sum . Monitor oc's great to 120hz with no frame skip except i just noticed a splotch dead center. About 10pixelx10pixel splotch. Varying shades of black. Seems like dead pixels... -.-
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/iZeaf
> 
> 
> is it dead pixels or dirt?


Looks like dirt, have you tried cleaning it?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Definitely not dead pixels.


----------



## CroSsFiRe2009

yea. tried quite a few times. no luck. can't clean it off


----------



## JMattes

Took apart the QNIX this morning to remove the stand and to reseat the monitor as the screen was a 1/8" shifted down.. It was a pain to pop the bezel off.. I kinda put a few scratches into it before I found the sweet spot to start it.. if I had to do it again it would be a breeze.. overall it was a great success!!

Only problem now is I found out I have 2 dead display ports on my new 970.. I would take it back immediately, but no one has them in stock.. I hope within the next month I can swap it out.. It wouldn't really be a problem as I have the cables to set it up without those 2 display ports, but I bought all new DVI to Display port cables so I dont want them to go to waste..

I haven't tried to overclock just yet.. I think I will try that on Sunday, but I am super excited!



Now to get used to the resolution as this is my first 1440p.. and to see if I like it on a second tier.. The other monitors aren't mountable


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Is this amount of backlight bleed normal?
> 
> I got this response from the seller when I sent the photos to them:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks for your photos.
> 
> Due to IPS panel characteristics, it may have bit of uneven color on the screen, but it is not considered as defects.
> For high resolution monitor with slim panel, it is normal to have this amount of backlight bleeding..
> The backlight bleeding issue looks more serious when look from a photo.
> Hope for your understanding.
> You may post these photos on forum and check the reply from other viewers.
> 
> We will wait for your reply.
> If there is any issue, please let us know.
> Thank you.


This looks pretty normal for these monitors, mine has the same lighting from the bottom corners


----------



## xGHOSTx

I'm looking at some eBay listings that are offering the QNIX or X-STAR with a "glossy" screen. Acessorieswh0le has this in glossy (item# 111482849722), but I'm wondering if it's actually a real glossy panel or tempered glass. I've read before that some sellers were selling some of these with a glass material on top of the matte screen, so I've been holding off from buying these until I get some feedback.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGHOSTx*
> 
> I'm looking at some eBay listings that are offering the QNIX or X-STAR with a "glossy" screen. Acessorieswh0le has this in glossy (item# 111482849722), but I'm wondering if it's actually a real glossy panel or tempered glass. I've read before that some sellers were selling some of these with a glass material on top of the matte screen, so I've been holding off from buying these until I get some feedback.


I'm fairly certain it's tempered glass. But I went ahead and got the "glossy" version anyways. Hoping to get it monday or tuesday


----------



## davepk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Is this amount of backlight bleed normal?
> 
> I got this response from the seller when I sent the photos to them:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> Thanks for your photos.
> 
> Due to IPS panel characteristics, it may have bit of uneven color on the screen, but it is not considered as defects.
> For high resolution monitor with slim panel, it is normal to have this amount of backlight bleeding..
> The backlight bleeding issue looks more serious when look from a photo.
> Hope for your understanding.
> You may post these photos on forum and check the reply from other viewers.
> 
> We will wait for your reply.
> If there is any issue, please let us know.
> Thank you.


I recently picked up this Perfect Pixel QNIX http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3PC23H6453&cm_re=pixel_perfect-_-0JC-0009-00031-_-Product, And my back light bleed looks almost identical to yours.

In order for me to notice the lower corner bleeds i need to raise my head and even then they don't appear as strong as yours, tho that's probably due to a long exposure/high ISO picture.

I have my monitor tilted up just a hair so i dont ever notice it.

My upper left bleed is so dim i dont ever notice it unless i go looking for it.


----------



## cutty1998

So , I just recently upgraded,(or should I say ,side-graded) from 2-GTX 680's in 2-way SLI ,to a single GTX980,in a Z77 Ivy bridge 3770K platform.Have been using a BenQ XL2420TX 1080P, 120Hz. gaming monitor. I am really wanting to behold the beauty of an IPS panel in 1440P resolution. The thing is , my Son ,is a huge ,huge LOL player ,and he loves the performance of the BenQ,as he is gettting 120FPS (locked of course) in LOL online. He used to play games like COD ,and NBA2K ,but he has a PS4 for that. I am afraid of jumping to 1440P and losing the crisp 120Hz. refresh rate. When I built this Ivy Bridge rig ,I was seriously looking into Catleap monitors,and even Overlord's O.C. model ,but it didn't happen. So for League of Legends ,would a 60 Hz,O.C.able PLS panel be a letdown for online gaming ,or an upgrade.? The Q-star looks great ,and review are mostly positive.Paid $450 for the 1080P BenQ and would gladly sell for $250-$300. Would it be worth it?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> So , I just recently upgraded,(or should I say ,side-graded) from 2-GTX 680's in 2-way SLI ,to a single GTX980,in a Z77 Ivy bridge 3770K platform.Have been using a BenQ XL2420TX 1080P, 120Hz. gaming monitor. I am really wanting to behold the beauty of an IPS panel in 1440P resolution. The thing is , my Son ,is a huge ,huge LOL player ,and he loves the performance of the BenQ,as he is gettting 120FPS (locked of course) in LOL online. He used to play games like COD ,and NBA2K ,but he has a PS4 for that. I am afraid of jumping to 1440P and losing the crisp 120Hz. refresh rate. When I built this Ivy Bridge rig ,I was seriously looking into Catleap monitors,and even Overlord's O.C. model ,but it didn't happen. So for League of Legends ,would a 60 Hz,O.C.able PLS panel be a letdown for online gaming ,or an upgrade.? The Q-star looks great ,and review are mostly positive.Paid $450 for the 1080P BenQ and would gladly sell for $250-$300. Would it be worth it?


I think LOL players prefer 1080p or less for those type of games, less mouse movement. So you might want to discuss that with him or let him try it on a 1440p monitor first. I have no idea if a single 980 will push 120fps on a 1440p monitor, I don't play LOL and I don't own a 980.


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I think LOL players prefer 1080p or less for those type of games, less mouse movement. So you might want to discuss that with him or let him try it on a 1440p monitor first. I have no idea if a single 980 will push 120fps on a 1440p monitor, I don't play LOL and I don't own a 980.


Yeah ,though I see you are sporting the 290 X ! , anyway, been looking at the new BenQ 27" G-sync monitor. Honestly very impressed with BenQ quality and fit & finish. That 2420TX is by far the very best PC monitor I have ever owned. I have heard hard core FPS players (like BF4,COD,counterstrike ) say there kill to death ratio half'd, when switching to a 1440P 60Hz. panel.In any event ,The Asus ROG 27" Gsync monitor looks absolutely stunning,but how to find one? BenQ ,also launching a 27" Gsync panel,seems like a very solid choice for PC Gaming!


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I think LOL players prefer 1080p or less for those type of games, less mouse movement. So you might want to discuss that with him or let him try it on a 1440p monitor first. I have no idea if a single 980 will push 120fps on a 1440p monitor, I don't play LOL and I don't own a 980.


Pretty sure everyone just plays on the highest allowed settings on their monitor. I know of one pro player who doesn't put it in full screen, but other than that, you want as high a resolution as possible.

I get over 300fps on a single GTX970, so the game can easily run on a 1440p.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Pretty sure everyone just plays on the highest allowed settings on their monitor. I know of one pro player who doesn't put it in full screen, but other than that, you want as high a resolution as possible.
> 
> I get over 300fps on a single GTX970, so the game can easily run on a 1440p.


Not arguing but all the ones I talked to/read about on forums said it is easier to move the camera around/mouse from one side of the map to the other at lower resolutions (not as much mouse movement). In addition to the size being smller so yuour head doesnt move as much and neither do your eyes. That's why they all use 24"1080p or less monitors or even play in a 720p window on a 1080p monitor.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Not arguing but all the ones I talked to/read about on forums said it is easier to move the camera around/mouse from one side of the map to the other at lower resolutions (not as much mouse movement). In addition to the size being smller so yuour head doesnt move as much and neither do your eyes. That's why they all use 24"1080p or less monitors or even play in a 720p window on a 1080p monitor.


Haven't really noticed a difference myself, but why wouldn't one just adjust the in-game sensitivity when playing on higher resolutions?







Have played on 27" in 1080p, I guess I'm just used to it


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyparker1337*
> 
> Weird... I'm getting flashes of static on my monitor every 10 seconds while in 120Hz mode.
> It happened right after I opened up a Netflix tab.
> 
> edit: This is odd. It happens only after opening of a Netflix tab. I tried several times. Then it went to permanent static. Then I reset the DVI cable on the monitor end and it made it go away.
> 
> My pixel clock is 460Hz and I'm using the stock cable.
> 
> Fine for entire show. As soon as the next show started... permanent static again.


Just an update for anyone else with this problem.

Quote:


> After doing some research this: https://code.google.com/p/chromium/issues/detail?id=422742 seems to be the problem.
> 
> It seems to be an issue of Chrome and Netflix updating their DRM and it not being compatible with 144hz monitors. Hopefully an easy fix but I suggest all of us affected report our problems to Netflix/Chrome to expedite an update.
> 
> -https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/677109/geforce-drivers/someone-please-help-entire-screen-static-when-running-movies-in-netflix


It's a problem specifically related to Netflix, Chrome, and faster-than-60Hz monitors.
It's caused by Netflix / Chrome and not the monitor.

-The short nerdy version is Netflix's new DRM code causes Chrome to freak out when it detects a higher-than-60Hz framerate. It thinks you are trying to break the DRM and it partially or fully disables the DHCP (encryption used by HDMI) which causes the entire screen / signal to turn to static every 5 seconds for 1 second or permanently is some cases.

I had all addons disabled - Netflix will now run content in HTML5 player on Chrome - and the problem still appeared.

The only solution is to permanently switch back to 60Hz or restart the PC.

I still would not recommend going past the 450Hz pixel clock these monitors are meant to max out at.
However, this problem was not a symptom of running past the pixel clock limit.


----------



## medikamina

Been hovering for months now and finally have the money to get a 1440p monitor. Noticed a few Glossy screens have popped up on eBay, anyone had any experience with these? Any downsides/problems?

Also, I know this is the QNIX/X-Star thread, but anyone had experience with the Catleap? The 'guaranteed' 120hz OC is appealing...

UK if it helps. Any tips?


----------



## ivoryg37

Anyone know of a good monitor that would match up with the qnix once debezeled? I want to run two smaller monitor on the side in surround but I don't think there is any 1440 monitor that small

Sorta like this


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Anyone know of a good monitor that would match up with the qnix once debezeled? I want to run two smaller monitor on the side in surround but I don't think there is any 1440 monitor that small
> 
> Sorta like this


I woud like a small monitor like this setup as well. I was looking into it a bit ago but I think all the 1080p screens I found would be taller in portrait and not match the qnix height.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> Yeah the true 10 one I ordered. I don't plan on overclocking it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *medikamina*
> 
> Been hovering for months now and finally have the money to get a 1440p monitor. Noticed a few Glossy screens have popped up on eBay, anyone had any experience with these? Any downsides/problems?
> 
> Also, I know this is the QNIX/X-Star thread, but anyone had experience with the Catleap? The 'guaranteed' 120hz OC is appealing...
> 
> UK if it helps. Any tips?


I've had two qnix and now a Catleap, my opinion is you can't go wrong with either one in terms of picture quality.
My experience is that my qnix could go to 110hz, my catleap does not want to push 100.
That being said, I think the colors on the catleap look better, panel uniformity is better and it doesn't "dim" when OC'ed.
Also, zero BLB, which my Qnix had in abundance.
There's always risk of dead pixels and BLB, that's why it's called the Panel Lottery.
The price on the new glossy qnix seems pretty good to me, but I haven't tried any of the new batch of panels out there.
According to accessorieswhole, they are true glossy and not tempered glass.


----------



## Zahix

Does anyone know where can I find a MOTV M2700? Or is it out of production?


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## daviejams

How do you actually overclock them anyway ?


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> How do you actually overclock them anyway ?


The OP has all the info you need for both AMD and Nvidia card.
I would highly recommend you read through that and it will answer 90% of your questions.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> How do you actually overclock them anyway ?


One of the the stickies, first page.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> I don't think any monitors are guaranteed 120hz. I think that is a bull**** claim.
> 
> As for my experience...I bought a Glossy QNIX recently. I have zero dead pixels and I like the glossy screen and image quality/pictures. I didn't notice any dimming when I overclocked mine to 96hz. Any higher gives me artifacts. I do have BLB though. It's not that noticeable unless I have a completely black screen.
> 
> I like my purchase but if the catleaps are supposed to be better then go for that probably.


Yeah, there is no 120hz guarantee for the catleaps, that's a weird misconception. The only thing that comes close is the Overlord Tempest monitors which are actually tested before they're sold.
I think they have a 110hzor 96hz guarantee or something, but as always oc'ing is dependant on your system specs as well, so no 120hz guarantee.


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> The OP has all the info you need for both AMD and Nvidia card.
> I would highly recommend you read through that and it will answer 90% of your questions.


OK thanks

I am not that bothered about doing it , but might as well have a try and see what I think


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## NASzi

took my qnix apart last night to remove the factory stand. I must say it was a breeze following David's guide for taking the bezel off. I even tried the electrical tape mod for some very minor light bleed I Have right along the right edge of my screen but it didn't help. It's only noticeable when the screen is black and only comes out a couple of millimeters in certain spots. I attached my panel to the cheap monoprice stand I bought from Amazon and everything works great.

The only issue was the screws that were provided with the vesa mount were too long for the qnix. Apparently the Qnix has shallow vesa mount holes because the same screws worked on my older AOC monitor I had laying around. When the stand came in, I though about using my old 1080P 27" as an auxiliary display on the side of my qnix in portrait mode but it was wayyy too big for my liking.

I had to use 3 small washers between the panel and the vesa mount (luckily I had a load of these laying around).

My only complaint is the monoprice stand has a small amount of play in it in regards to the rotating of the monitor. It's not loose enough to cause the monitor to sag to one side but it is enough for it to make it easily come off level if the monitor is bumped. I even made sure I tightened a specific screw to stop this during assembly but It just loosened up again.

Here's the stand I bought

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L11FUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## wntrsnowg

I also had to use washers when I vesa mounted my Qnix. Maybe I should add this info to the OP....

The monoprice stands are good, but not all the way there...

If you want a really nice stand, try and find the one from the hp zr22w monitor. I got the stand by itself off ebay for ~$20 shipped brand new in original box; it is solid and allows for rotation, height adjustment and has cable pass-throughs for a keyboard, mouse, etc. I highly recommend it.

Quick ebay search and I think I found it. Pretty sure this is one that I have which works after you take off the HP quickmount stuff by unscrewing it. Disclaimer: I am not affiliated at all to that ebay seller.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA961AA-NEW-HP-ZR22w-21-5-LCD-Column-Monitor-Base-Stand-583847-001-647941-001-/361100360975?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item5413423d0f


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I also had to use washers when I vesa mounted my Qnix. Maybe I should add this info to the OP....
> 
> The monoprice stands are good, but not all the way there...
> 
> If you want a really nice stand, try and find the one from the hp zr22w monitor. I got the stand by itself off ebay for ~$20 shipped brand new in original box; it is solid and allows for rotation, height adjustment and has cable pass-throughs for a keyboard, mouse, etc. I highly recommend it.
> 
> Quick ebay search and I think I found it. Pretty sure this is one that I have which works after you take off the HP quickmount stuff by unscrewing it. Disclaimer: I am not affiliated at all to that ebay seller.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA961AA-NEW-HP-ZR22w-21-5-LCD-Column-Monitor-Base-Stand-583847-001-647941-001-/361100360975?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item5413423d0f


Also on Amazon

Just ordered one yesterday.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HES611S/ref=gp_aw_ybh_l_9?pi=SL500_SR90%2C180&refRID=0XBM0HKDVZWXXEGQYKQ9


----------



## nolimitz

Hi!

Maybe someone has figured out already but I couldn't find any hint in the net... I just need to know if those monitors without a AD board (by pass only?) are capable of lower resolutions even with my DualDVI cable and my Raddeon R9 290?

My background is to know if i can enter the bios with that or/and install the operating system? So does it display in some manner also 640x480 with a DualDVI cable and appropriate graphics card?

Cheers

NoLimitz


----------



## OkanG

Received my monitor stand before the monitor itself. Any day now.. Starting to become impatient!


----------



## davepk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nolimitz*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Maybe someone has figured out already but I couldn't find any hint in the net... I just need to know if those monitors without a AD board (by pass only?) are capable of lower resolutions even with my DualDVI cable and my Raddeon R9 290?
> 
> My background is to know if i can enter the bios with that or/and install the operating system? So does it display in some manner also 640x480 with a DualDVI cable and appropriate graphics card?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> NoLimitz


I was curious about the same thing when i got my QNIX. In my case my 780 had no problem displaying my asrock z77 EFI BIOS on screen during bootup.
The 780 must know to do the scaling in that circumstance, tho it didnt look like a scaled 640x480 display, more like a scaled 1080p display or possibly unscaled 1440p.

I have yet to try that with the Intel integrated graphic on my 3570k


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nolimitz*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Maybe someone has figured out already but I couldn't find any hint in the net... I just need to know if those monitors without a AD board (by pass only?) are capable of lower resolutions even with my DualDVI cable and my Raddeon R9 290?
> 
> My background is to know if i can enter the bios with that or/and install the operating system? So does it display in some manner also 640x480 with a DualDVI cable and appropriate graphics card?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> NoLimitz


In short...Yes. You can view BIOS, and install an operating system with this monitor.


----------



## Rawng

Anyone know if this will fit on our vesa mount? http://www.ebay.com/itm/361100360975?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## jameyscott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> Anyone know if this will fit on our vesa mount? http://www.ebay.com/itm/361100360975?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Any vesa 100 mount will work. However you may have to use shorter screws or washers.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawng*
> 
> Anyone know if this will fit on our vesa mount? http://www.ebay.com/itm/361100360975?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Yes, that's a popular mount with the Qnix/X-star.


----------



## Dodda

QNIX.jpg 20k .jpg file
I was attempting to OC my QNIX qx2710 using NVCP and am now stuck in a red / green / blue loop. Can anyone suggest what I need to do to get that display back? The monitor was running fine prior to this...

I have already tried using http://www.monitortests.com/restart.zip & have replaced the DVI cable at the back to no avail .


----------



## castlefire

unrelated topic but had to


----------



## NASzi

anyone upgrade to the newest nvidia driver yet? I upgraded a little while ago and my 84 hertz overclock that was working is no longer working. Any ideas?


----------



## funfordcobra

yes the new drivers break the overclock. Nvidia rep told me that we should never be able to get a monitor higher than its stock refresh rate and cant find any info on overclockable monitors. So I gave him the link to this 2200 page thread and told him obviously people are using and depending on this monitor overclock option..


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> yes the new drivers break the overclock. Nvidia rep told me that we should never be able to get a monitor higher than its stock refresh rate and cant find any info on overclockable monitors. So I gave him the link to this 2200 page thread and told him obviously people are using and depending on this monitor overclock option..


Funny I updated without any issues....still at a 100hz OC.


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Funny I updated without any issues....still at a 100hz OC.


Gah! That's what I run 24/7.. I reverted to the previous driver and wallah, overclockability returns...


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> Gah! That's what I run 24/7.. I reverted to the previous driver and wallah, overclockability returns...


What is this? what do you mean it "breaks" the overclock? YOu can't create custom resolutions anymore?


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dodda*
> 
> QNIX.jpg 20k .jpg file
> I was attempting to OC my QNIX qx2710 using NVCP and am now stuck in a red / green / blue loop. Can anyone suggest what I need to do to get that display back? The monitor was running fine prior to this...
> 
> I have already tried using http://www.monitortests.com/restart.zip & have replaced the DVI cable at the back to no avail .


My monitor does this when I apply an unsupported resolution.
I have to restart the PC to fix it.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Funny I updated without any issues....still at a 100hz OC.


technically it was still overclocked to 84 hertz but it had frame skipping where before it did not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> What is this? what do you mean it "breaks" the overclock? YOu can't create custom resolutions anymore?


Yes of course you can but for some reason the overclock isn't working without frame skipping


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> technically it was still overclocked to 84 hertz but it had frame skipping where before it did not.
> Yes of course you can but for some reason the overclock isn't working without frame skipping


That's weird. Does driver patching fix it?


----------



## funfordcobra

EDIT: Rolled back drivers and uninstalled qnix driver. Reinstalled latest Nvidia driver and reinstalled qnix driver and it works now with no skipping.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> That's weird. Does driver patching fix it?


No. Tried the overclock with and without the driver patching.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *funfordcobra*
> 
> EDIT: Rolled back drivers and uninstalled qnix driver. Reinstalled latest Nvidia driver and reinstalled qnix driver and it works now with no skipping.


Good to know. I'll try this when I get home.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> There's a qnix driver? You mean the AMD driver patcher?


Its on the main page.. I down loaded it yesterday myself actually.. scratched my head a few times as to how to install the driver..
some better instructions would be nice.. maybe it's just because I wasn't focusing on what it said to do haha..


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## toyopl

Is there Qnix Glossy that overclocks ?
I'm waiting for Yamakasi 2B to come down in price but so far it's around $600.
Wondering if there's Qnix equivalent to Yamakasi.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyopl*
> 
> Is there Qnix Glossy that overclocks ?
> I'm waiting for Yamakasi 2B to come down in price but so far it's around $600.
> Wondering if there's Qnix equivalent to Yamakasi.


The single input model overclocks fine.


----------



## medikamina

Thanks. Reckon the glossy is a nicer screen than the matte?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *medikamina*
> 
> Thanks. Reckon the glossy is a nicer screen than the matte?


More vibrant colors, and deeper blacks. But if you have a problem with glare on your monitor, or you somehow can't cover your windows completely, the light that the glossy screen reflects could bother you.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> I also had to use washers when I vesa mounted my Qnix. Maybe I should add this info to the OP....
> 
> The monoprice stands are good, but not all the way there...
> 
> If you want a really nice stand, try and find the one from the hp zr22w monitor. I got the stand by itself off ebay for ~$20 shipped brand new in original box; it is solid and allows for rotation, height adjustment and has cable pass-throughs for a keyboard, mouse, etc. I highly recommend it.
> 
> Quick ebay search and I think I found it. Pretty sure this is one that I have which works after you take off the HP quickmount stuff by unscrewing it. Disclaimer: I am not affiliated at all to that ebay seller.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA961AA-NEW-HP-ZR22w-21-5-LCD-Column-Monitor-Base-Stand-583847-001-647941-001-/361100360975?pt=US_Monitor_Mounts_Stands&hash=item5413423d0f


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Also on Amazon
> 
> Just ordered one yesterday.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HES611S/ref=gp_aw_ybh_l_9?pi=SL500_SR90%2C180&refRID=0XBM0HKDVZWXXEGQYKQ9


Its a great stand. I have it installed on my Qnix.

Word of warning though, don't expect height adjustment. If I raise the monitor, it slides back down. Since its designed for a 22" monitor's weight. Also, this means if you want to rotate it to portrait mode, it will be touching the surface of your table and tilted (angled) upwards since you have to raise the monitor to a certain height for the panel to be perpendicular to your table.

There is a zr27 stand which is basically the same but i guess it can keep the Qnix raised because it's designed for 27". But It costs more than $80 so for me it's not worth it. I don't need height adjustment anyway so all of this doesn't bother me.

Other than that the zr22w is pretty good. It's sturdy and keeps my Qnix from shaking unlike the awful stock stand. It's also aesthetically pleasing.

Anyway i need your help people. I tried searching for this but with no avail.
I'm in the process of getting new GPUs so I'm using my on-board GPU right now.

The problem is that my Qnix doesn't receive a signal from the DVI-D port on my motherboard. It can't even get into bios. When i power up the PC all i get is the test mode which is blinking red, blue, green etc.
Right now I'm using a old dell monitor connected to the VGA port.

When I first built my rig I could use the Qnix with on-board GPU @1440p with no issues for a couple of weeks while waiting for a video card to arrive. It all started when i got my first dedicated GPU. Once installed, I couldn't use the on-board DVI-D port again.

My results with trouble shooting so far:


Qnix and DVI cable work fine with D-GPU.
I'm using the integrated GPU right now with a VGA connection. So no issues with iGPU.
I enabled the on board GPU via the BIOS. iGFX>Enabled.
Qnix doesn't even display the bios welcome screen. So i guess Windows settings/drivers have nothing to do with this?
Maybe some pins in the motherboard's DVI-D port is broken? I'm not sure. However, I want to exhaust all possible solutions before residing on a hardware fault.

Edit: I forgot to add that my Qnix only goes into test mode when it's the only monitor connected. If I connect the Dell via VGA monitor alongside the Qnix via DVI-D, the Qnix shows a black screen while the Dell displays gray-scale colors & 1024x768 res (normally 1280x1024 when connected by itself & DVI-D port unplugged).


----------



## daviejams

You need dvi-i. They are not meant to work using onboard graphics has to be with a gpu


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> You need dvi-i. They are not meant to work using onboard graphics has to be with a gpu


Thanks for replying

I had it connected to the on-board GPU for weeks with no problems. I even played light f2p games with it. So wether it was meant to work with on-board GPU or not; it DID work.
Im curious as to why it stopped working after i used a dedicated gpu. Even resetting the bios to its default settings (to undo any effects brought by installing a D-GPU) didnt work.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Its a great stand. I have it installed on my Qnix.
> 
> Word of warning though, don't expect height adjustment. If I raise the monitor, it slides back down. Since its designed for a 22" monitor's weight. Also, this means if you want to rotate it to portrait mode, it will be touching the surface of your table and tilted (angled) upwards since you have to raise the monitor to a certain height for the panel to be perpendicular to your table.
> 
> There is a zr27 stand which is basically the same but i guess it can keep the Qnix raised because it's designed for 27". But It costs more than $80 so for me it's not worth it. I don't need height adjustment anyway so all of this doesn't bother me.
> 
> Other than that the zr22w is pretty good. It's sturdy and keeps my Qnix from shaking unlike the awful stock stand. It's also aesthetically pleasing.
> 
> Anyway i need your help people. I tried searching for this but with no avail.
> I'm in the process of getting new GPUs so I'm using my on-board GPU right now.
> 
> The problem is that my Qnix doesn't receive a signal from the DVI-D port on my motherboard. It can't even get into bios. When i power up the PC all i get is the test mode which is blinking red, blue, green etc.
> Right now I'm using a old dell monitor connected to the VGA port.
> 
> When I first built my rig I could use the Qnix with on-board GPU @1440p with no issues for a couple of weeks while waiting for a video card to arrive. It all started when i got my first dedicated GPU. Once installed, I couldn't use the on-board DVI-D port again.
> 
> My results with trouble shooting so far:
> 
> 
> Qnix and DVI cable work fine with D-GPU.
> I'm using the integrated GPU right now with a VGA connection. So no issues with iGPU.
> I enabled the on board GPU via the BIOS. iGFX>Enabled.
> Qnix doesn't even display the bios welcome screen. So i guess Windows settings/drivers have nothing to do with this?
> Maybe some pins in the motherboard's DVI-D port is broken? I'm not sure. However, I want to exhaust all possible solutions before residing on a hardware fault.
> 
> Edit: I forgot to add that my Qnix only goes into test mode when it's the only monitor connected. If I connect the Dell via VGA monitor alongside the Qnix via DVI-D, the Qnix shows a black screen while the Dell displays gray-scale colors & 1024x768 res (normally 1280x1024 when connected by itself & DVI-D port unplugged).


Theres a setting in bios that has igp or pci graphics as a choice. Select auto then save and see if that helps. Possibly save your current bios settings into a profile and try clearing cmos and loading optimized defaults. Sorry I don't have any more ideas.


----------



## NASzi

Edit:

Ok guys I got my overclock back working, here's what I did.

Booted into safe Mode and used Display Driver Uninstaller to remove my display driver completely
Opened up device manager while still in display mode and removed my qnix driver

rebooted PC

Re-installed newest Nvidia Driver
Re-installed qnix driver
Re-installed Nvidia clock patcher
In Nvidia Control Panel, Created new customer resolution at 85 Hertz (I have the TRUE 10 SE, 85 is MAX)
Verified there is no frame skipping on test UFO

Voila! Everything is back working like a charm


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone have a nice color profile for 120hz that keeps the gamma shift to the minimum?


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Theres a setting in bios that has igp or pci graphics as a choice. Select auto then save and see if that helps. Possibly save your current bios settings into a profile and try clearing cmos and loading optimized defaults. Sorry I don't have any more ideas.


Thanks. I'll check to see if there's an auto setting.


----------



## TrevJonez

im running mine @ 110. IMO the only way to get it right is to use a color spec. It is a lot to swallow but it really makes such a huge difference IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display/dp/B0055MBQOM
http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNSML-ColorMunki-Smile/dp/B009APMNB0
http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Pro-S4P100-Colorimeter-Calibration/dp/B006TF37H8
http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Express-S4X100-Display-Calibration/dp/B006TF3746

these options being the cheapest.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/spyder4-monitor-calibration-image-quality,3581.html

link to a good write up about it.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## funfordcobra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> How do you even change the color for the single input qnix? You'd have to do it through Windows or through the CCC/NVIDIA drivers.


you import a color profile. I've had bad luck with this though. Every time I import, everything turns out way too dark..The colors are pretty good in the stock profile. IMO.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## OkanG

I finally got it! Didn't have to pay taxes or whatever from it either, for those of you wondering from Europe. Since it's FedEx delivering it directly, I think it skips tolls at the border somehow. I was surprised to see a FedEx guy delivering here in Denmark, I thought it would be Denmark's own postal service that would forward the package. I've waited for exactly a week now, and I finally got it!

I received the monitor half an hour before I had to be at work, and now I just got back, so I've been eager to test out a few games on it







But first, I'll mount my vesa stand and have a go at overclocking! From what I can see, it has very little light bleed. Much less than my 27" Philips TN panel, no dead pixels as far as I can see either. I really have to mount the other stand on it now though, the stock stand is horrible!


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> I finally got it! Didn't have to pay taxes or whatever from it either, for those of you wondering from Europe. Since it's FedEx delivering it directly, I think it skips tolls at the border somehow. I was surprised to see a FedEx guy delivering here in Denmark, I thought it would be Denmark's own postal service that would forward the package. I've waited for exactly a week now, and I finally got it!
> 
> I received the monitor half an hour before I had to be at work, and now I just got back, so I've been eager to test out a few games on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But first, I'll mount my vesa stand and have a go at overclocking! From what I can see, it has very little light bleed. Much less than my 27" Philips TN panel, no dead pixels as far as I can see either. I really have to mount the other stand on it now though, the stock stand is horrible!


You'll get an invoice for it

I've got two monitors from Korea , one I had to pay the UPS man cash and the other was delivered by DHL and I got invoiced for it

Unless Denmark has a free trade agreement with South Korea of course or you've somehow fluked it


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> How do you even change the color for the single input qnix? You'd have to do it through Windows or through the CCC/NVIDIA drivers.


Using a colorimeter allows you to load the Look Up Table into the video card. LUTs aren't the whole story but it is great for fixing "too dark" issues.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

FedEX has Delivery Hubs in 220 Countries so it does not surprise me. What does surprise me is that you have never met your FedEx guy/gal. I know mine by his first name and have his cell number on speed dial, lol...

FedEx is a great International service, one of the best.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> FedEX has Delivery Hubs in 220 Countries so it does not surprise me. What does surprise me is that you have never met your FedEx guy/gal. I know mine by his first name and have his cell number on speed dial, lol...
> 
> FedEx is a great International service, one of the best.


Do you own a business where you use Fedex?
Or are you loaded and stay at home and just buy stuff all day?

I don't think normal people know there Fedex guy..


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Do you own a business where you use Fedex?
> Or are you loaded and stay at home and just buy stuff all day?
> 
> I don't think normal people know there Fedex guy..


I know the UPS guy ....


----------



## mrfahrenheit94

Ordered my Qnix on Sunday from ipsledmonitors.com now it's Thursday, still processing....no word from them. Called them twice yesterday, no answer, asked me to leave my name and number. I did the second time, never got a call back. Called again today, still no answer.

They say that they ship within 24-48hrs...hasn't been my experience.

It's frustrating because although I think I'll love the monitor, the return policy is 2 weeks from purchase. It's been 4 days and it hasn't even shipped.

Also, I've seen on this thread and elsewhere that people would order on Monday and get the monitor on their doorstep 3 days later. I'm bummed.

I guess I can do nothing but wait


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevJonez*
> 
> im running mine @ 110. IMO the only way to get it right is to use a color spec. It is a lot to swallow but it really makes such a huge difference IMO.


Spyders are less accurate and can not read contrast properly (spyder 4's vs. colormunkie and i1 display pro), not sure how the colormunkie smile compares.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> You'll get an invoice for it
> 
> I've got two monitors from Korea , one I had to pay the UPS man cash and the other was delivered by DHL and I got invoiced for it
> 
> Unless Denmark has a free trade agreement with South Korea of course or you've somehow fluked it


Sometimes the toll just doesn't.. work. It's like they're asleep. Right up until New Years, where people order a lot of illegal fireworks for example, they don't really care to check packages going over the border. I hope I won't, I've always had to pay toll before picking up the package, I always get a letter where it says where I can pick my package up and how much I'm required to pay to get it.

Anyways, finally removed the stock stand and put my VESA mount on. It's a table clamp, so my monitor is flying. I've never had a flying monitor before!


----------



## OkanG

Okay, I can't really figure out how to update the monitor's software. I'm in Device Manager, trying to patch the driver with the qnix.inf file, but it just says "Windows Encountered a problem installing the driver software for your device"

Any ideas what might be wrong?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Do you own a business where you use Fedex?
> Or are you loaded and stay at home and just buy stuff all day?
> 
> I don't think normal people know there Fedex guy..


All computer Enthusiasts who builds non stop computers decade after decade know their delivery guys. My UPS guy used to locate the hidden house key in order to deliver large items while I was at work. No I'm not loaded, just a normal computer Enthusiast who has built hundreds of computers in the last 20 years. And yes I have an ebay business that helps too, lol... There are no Normal people at OCN, we are all Overclockers and or Enthusiasts here and thus we buy stuff constantly to support the habit. I used to build a new computer every 3 months, or so, from about 1994 to about 2007, so try and imagine how many visits from delivery guys that had to take, its in the thousands and thousands of deliveries. Not to mention I have a ebay storefront with over ten thousand transactions completed, so if someone requests UPS, then I have to schedule a UPS pickup. There is no way to not get to know their names. I know fedex, ups and USPS delivery guys by name and I have USPS and UPS's cell numbers. Mark my USPS mail man will call me 5 minutes before he arrives without fail, if he has a large box that won't fit in the boxes down the road, how cool is that? I do NOT know the DHL guy though but he rarely ever comes here, maybe a few times a year...

Yes, I am a perfectly normal OCN member.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> All computer Enthusiasts who builds non stop computers decade after decade know their delivery guys. My UPS guy used to locate the hidden house key in order to deliver large items while I was at work. No I'm not loaded, just a normal computer Enthusiast who has built hundreds of computers in the last 20 years. And yes I have an ebay business that helps too, lol... There are no Normal people at OCN, we are all Overclockers and or Enthusiasts here and thus we buy stuff constantly to support the habit. I used to build a new computer every 3 months, or so, from about 1994 to about 2007, so try and imagine how many visits from delivery guys that had to take, its in the thousands and thousands of deliveries. Not to mention I have a ebay storefront with over ten thousand transactions completed, so if someone requests UPS, then I have to schedule a UPS pickup. There is no way to not get to know their names. I know fedex, ups and USPS delivery guys by name and I have USPS and UPS's cell numbers. Mark my USPS mail man will call me 5 minutes before he arrives without fail, if he has a large box that won't fit in the boxes down the road, how cool is that? I do NOT know the DHL guy though but he rarely ever comes here, maybe a few times a year...
> 
> Yes, I am a perfectly normal OCN member.


Haha, I believe you









I am just playing. I have a local Microcenter so I know those guys there..same diff I guess.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Haha, I believe you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am just playing. I have a local Microcenter so I know those guys there..same diff I guess.


Sadly, we lost our really good UPS guy about 5 or 6 years ago. He was so trusted that he was welcome to come in even when we were not here (he has delivered many large CRT and LCD monitors in the past directly into the middle of the Living room, while alone). The now, not so new guy is also really cool, but will not enter the house what so ever (policy maybe?), he just leaves packages at the front door, which is cool considering how far a walk from the road it is, and then we have to pray it wont rain or snow on them, lol. If he thinks it will rain, then he just goes around the corner and leaves it in the garage which has no doors. The really cool delivery guy though is Mark my USPS mail man, he is also a computer enthusiast and I am the one who taught him how to build a PC back in about 2011. He is from Chicago though, lol and is not the friendliest of guys, as he has his days where it seems he is on the rag, if you know what I mean, I guess mail delivery can be stressful. On those days I just wave to him, lol...

Anyway, this is off topic, I apologize. I just thought all OCN members were enthusiasts and had so many deliveries due to their habits that they knew their delivery guys by name. Its a perfectly normal thing here.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Okay, I can't really figure out how to update the monitor's software. I'm in Device Manager, trying to patch the driver with the qnix.inf file, but it just says "Windows Encountered a problem installing the driver software for your device"
> 
> Any ideas what might be wrong?


Maybe it's the Win8.1 driver install restrictions?









Copy/paste from OC Guide *HERE* ...

_3: Download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..
You can use the bootuituner app linked below which is a handy little tools that allows you to quickly apply Advance start up in windows 8 and turn off and on windows Driver signature enforcement!.. Or you use this link and follow the instructions http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/
_


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Maybe it's the Win8.1 driver install restrictions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copy/paste from OC Guide *HERE* ...
> 
> _3: Download and install the Qnix monitor driver below..(Install using the Device Manager -> Monitors -> Right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the Qnix.inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver..
> You can use the bootuituner app linked below which is a handy little tools that allows you to quickly apply Advance start up in windows 8 and turn off and on windows Driver signature enforcement!.. Or you use this link and follow the instructions http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-can-i-install-hardware-with-unsigned-drivers-in-windows-8/
> _


I think I dun goofed guys. I was watching a YouTube video on the other monitor (the video guide of how to do the OC). When I turned that off, I got it to 96Hz. Do I still have to do this though? I don't know if games are 96 fps. If I turn VSync on, it caps at 60fps. Shouldn't it cap at 96Hz when i Turn VSync off, or do I have to change some settings for it to do that? When I uncap FPS, I don't really know if the smoothness difference compared to my old monitor is because of the increased fps or just because the monitor has richer colors/more pixels


----------



## sid4975

well after 2 weeks of the RMA process through newegg I finally got my replacement and its basically the same deal. I cant get past 85 or so without problems. this one gives me a black bar across the top of the screen and leaves a ghosting trail of the top bars when I close windows ill still see the top of an open window on the desktop.







I guess im not meant to overclock

anyone know by chance what that is and how to get rid of it?


----------



## sid4975

ok I rolled back NVidia drivers and did a clean install and it seems to be working good at 105hz! its not using the qnix driver though its using the regular monitor.inf does that matter?


----------



## Nostras

I'd like to add that the qnix monitor driver also fixed an issue for me.
Before I installed the driver every time I tried to OC my monitor my screen would go black and never come back until I forcefully restarted it, thankfully...

Thanks guys!

Uh oh, still running into other problems.

https://i.imgur.com/DaC7tLj.jpg

And discard that immediately, appears the solution was to select a couple resolutions ( not all, too many ) and press OK.

https://i.imgur.com/NhbKBGO.jpg

Quite happy with the results, screen is very dark though...


----------



## Krentebol

So I got my monitor 1 month ago. This is it! (and a pic of BacklightBleed)



And I also did the debezelling. Worked out great!







(Sorry for the bad qually pics, my iPhone isnt what it used to be...
Anyways, when I was done with my debezeling (which i did @ my girlfriends home) I transported it home.
Once I was @ my own house, and installed the screen I noticed a big vague circle RIGHT on the screen:



I thought that I broke the monitor, but when I got close to the monitor and started smelling there was this really strange odor.
I was soon to find out that the cat of my girlfriend PISSED on my screen (yeah, who would have thought that... And don't even ask me how he did it).
Luckily I managed to clean it quite well. I removed the panel from the reflective thing of the monitor and cleaned it very propper with 99% alcohol.
Reassembeled the whole monitor and BAM! it works again!



Only when you look @ the monitor from an angle you will see these stripes. But when you look at it from the front you can't even see it!

Result:


Phew, I am so glad that it all worked out! I am still claiming a new monitor from the insurance
I can really recommend doing the debezelling mod. It looks way better now and isnt really hard at all.
And I enjoyed it quite allot IMHO.

And for the owner of this thread. The import costs of the monitor to the Netherlands are 55 euro's.
My seller noted that the monitor was 200 dollar.


----------



## sid4975

the monitor seems to be ok at 105 which im perfectly happy with! Im trying to get the color alittle better now it seems kind of dark and washed out. Can someone explain the color management and profiles to me? I don't understand what they do when I load one or set one to default I don't see any change in the colors on the screen, what am I changing?


----------



## OkanG

Mine frameskips at 100Hz. Luckily, it's fine at 96Hz. It's soooo much smoother and prettier than my old panel, it's not even funny









I've tried CS:GO and Assetto Corsa so far, and I've been loving both very much. Guys who have debezeled the monitor, have you made a bezel yourself? I think it looks kinda weird with the bezel off, as there's some kind of white plastic around the monitor, making it look incomplete (oddly enough







)


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> I thought that I broke the monitor, but when I got close to the monitor and started smelling there was this really strange odor.
> I was soon to find out that *the cat of my girlfriend PISSED on my screen*


Highlight of entire thread


----------



## Dodda

Can anyone tell me what's going on with my monitor.... Should I look at getting a 2nd dvi cable (have tried 2 that came with QNIX screens) or is it likely a screen fault?









No overclock, just plugged it in to a 780 ti and this happens a day later. Anyway, here is the videohttps://




Purchased from green-sum


----------



## iCrap

I did the OC guide on windows 8 but my PC is in test mode? any ideas how to get rid of that?


----------



## Noshandy

Hi All,

I've been a very happy owner of a Qnix 2710 for a year or so and decided to add two more for Nvidia Surround. I have all three connected to two GTX 780 Classifieds through the dual DVI outputs on the two cards. As its mainly used for IRacing the gpus are fine for now but will look into perhaps upgrading later but my question is about adjusting refresh rate.

How are triple Qnix 2710 users overclocking there displays to anything over 59hz? I've been lucky and separately all 3 can potentially do 120hz although all I am aiming for is 96hz. Toastys tool doesn't allow this high a custom resolution and NVidia custom resolution options are greyed out.

I've seen various posts stating that people have had success with overclocking their surround setups with Nvidia cards so is there anyone out there that can advise on how this is possible?

Many thanks

Andy


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noshandy*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I've been a very happy owner of a Qnix 2710 for a year or so and decided to add two more for Nvidia Surround. I have all three connected to two GTX 780 Classifieds through the dual DVI outputs on the two cards. As its mainly used for IRacing the gpus are fine for now but will look into perhaps upgrading later but my question is about adjusting refresh rate.
> 
> How are triple Qnix 2710 users overclocking there displays to anything over 59hz? I've been lucky and separately all 3 can potentially do 120hz although all I am aiming for is 96hz. Toastys tool doesn't allow this high a custom resolution and NVidia custom resolution options are greyed out.
> 
> I've seen various posts stating that people have had success with overclocking their surround setups with Nvidia cards so is there anyone out there that can advise on how this is possible?
> 
> Many thanks
> 
> Andy


I run mine at 96Hz. First have them set as separate monitors. Then, make the custom resolution for each at 96Hz and apply the custom resolution to each. Then go to Surround, and select 96Hz. You can not use bezel correction, if you try, it will default to 60 hz, even though it lists 96hz as available.

If you have any questions feel free.


----------



## Noshandy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I run mine at 96Hz. First have them set as separate monitors. Then, make the custom resolution for each at 96Hz and apply the custom resolution to each. Then go to Surround, and select 96Hz. You can not use bezel correction, if you try, it will default to 60 hz, even though it lists 96hz as available.
> 
> If you have any questions feel free.


Many thanks for your quick response. I will give this a try later.


----------



## Nwanko

Anyone got any info or driver or whatever for the Tvera TS-27WQHDIPS. I thought i was gonna buy a Qnix second hand and the seller didn't tell me it is this one.
I think it is overclockable,it has only 1 DVI-D input. I added the same profiles in CRU that my causin has on his Qnix 2710. 96Hz working normally so far in Advanced Warfare. Tried the frace skipping test and it is showing green VALID sign, also on 110Hz..


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Anyone got any info or driver or whatever for the Tvera TS-27WQHDIPS. I thought i was gonna buy a Qnix second hand and the seller didn't tell me it is this one.
> I think it is overclockable,it has only 1 DVI-D input. I added the same profiles in CRU that my causin has on his Qnix 2710. 96Hz working normally so far in Advanced Warfare. Tried the frace skipping test and it is showing green VALID sign, also on 110Hz..


I made the mistake of assuming VALID on frame skip test meant no frame skipping once... it makes sense
BUT
The test is a visual one, the VALID designation is for the refresh rate. The only way to use the frame skip test is to make sure that all the moving squares are appearing as they should. If a square is skipped, then that's a missing frame.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nwanko*
> 
> Anyone got any info or driver or whatever for the Tvera TS-27WQHDIPS. I thought i was gonna buy a Qnix second hand and the seller didn't tell me it is this one.
> I think it is overclockable,it has only 1 DVI-D input. I added the same profiles in CRU that my causin has on his Qnix 2710. 96Hz working normally so far in Advanced Warfare. Tried the frace skipping test and it is showing green VALID sign, also on 110Hz..


by far the simplest test to see if it is overclocked without frame skipping is to simply move the mouse in circles really fast. At 120hz youll have way more instances of the pointer than 60hz. Thats what i do to make sure my refresh is working.

If the mouse movement looks the the same at 60hz and "120hz" - then its frame skipping


----------



## Nwanko

Non of the squares are skipping....and also between 60 and 96 the 96 feels more responsive and better image when i play a game so i think this is legit overclock.

Is it possible for someone to make me a driver install with the overclock and color profiles allready adden in just like with the Qnix2710 driver?


----------



## electro2u

Sounds legit. Driver is not needed


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I had stopped testing at 100hz to make sure my screen could go that high. Got the urge the other night to go for 110 and 120.







Happily can tell you the monitor I got from AMazon for 350$ does 120hz with no problems or green bars across the screen. Very nice.

Love the cost savings and prime colors this monitor has.


----------



## Dodda

Can anyone comment on what is going on with my monitor here?


----------



## GoldenboyXD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dodda*
> 
> Can anyone comment on what is going on with my monitor here?


Looks like a line problem to me. Check both ends of the DVI connectors for any loose fit or maybe a broken DVI cable? 2nd problem i think would be the video card. Try another video card with DVI if you have a spare. I would not say the monitor is the problem if it's quite new.


----------



## JMattes

What happens if I plug the dvi-d cable into the dvi input?
Instead of the DVI-D input?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> What happens if I plug the dvi-d cable into the dvi input?
> Instead of the DVI-D input?


Either the earth will explode or it will work fine. Depends on the cable.
Actually modern cards both dvi-d and dvi-i are dual link so it works.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Either the earth will explode or it will work fine. Depends on the cable.
> Actually modern cards both dvi-d and dvi-i are dual link so it works.


Oh no I dont want the world to explode.. or do I ..

Same over clocking abilities? Thats what I was getting at..

Wish I knew that.. they all work now..

too bad I swapped my 970 g1.. went from 71% asic quality to 70%


----------



## Nwanko

Can anyone tell me at least how to add the color profiles for every refresh rate in windows settings to override the stock ones so i dont have to have color sustainer opened all the time, i'm using the Yasamoka ICM profiles for Qnix. 60,96,110hz files.


----------



## prostreetcamaro

Hey gentleman is there any way around breaking HDCP when the ati drivers are patched? I use an HD homerun and fios cablecard and use windows media center to watch TV and record stuff. I totally forgot it breaks HDCP and makes media center useless. So here I am stuck on 60hz for now when my monitor will do 120 easily. I have a water cooled 290X. Does overclocking the monitor on a nvidia card break HDCP also or not? If I cant work around this then I might have to sell this card and get a water cooled GTX970 if the nvidia cards dont break hdcp.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prostreetcamaro*
> 
> Hey gentleman is there any way around breaking HDCP when the ati drivers are patched? I use an HD homerun and fios cablecard and use windows media center to watch TV and record stuff. I totally forgot it breaks HDCP and makes media center useless. So here I am stuck on 60hz for now when my monitor will do 120 easily. I have a water cooled 290X. Does overclocking the monitor on a nvidia card break HDCP also or not? If I cant work around this then I might have to sell this card and get a water cooled GTX970 if the nvidia cards dont break hdcp.


No way around it but you can just run the patcher again (will unpatch it) to enable HDCP and run the patch again when you play games. Takes about 1 second.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prostreetcamaro*
> 
> Hey gentleman is there any way around breaking HDCP when the ati drivers are patched? I use an HD homerun and fios cablecard and use windows media center to watch TV and record stuff. I totally forgot it breaks HDCP and makes media center useless. So here I am stuck on 60hz for now when my monitor will do 120 easily. I have a water cooled 290X. Does overclocking the monitor on a nvidia card break HDCP also or not? If I cant work around this then I might have to sell this card and get a water cooled GTX970 if the nvidia cards dont break hdcp.


Nvidia OC doesn't break HDCP. I use Media Center at 96Hz with my HD Homerun all the time.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Nvidia OC doesn't break HDCP. I use Media Center at 96Hz with my HD Homerun all the time.


AMD requires a patch to enable higher pixel clocks using DVI-D because it is beyond the spec for DVI-D. You are right Nvidia doesn't need the pixel patch. I misread him thanks for clearing that up. I was just letting him know that he can unpatch it and repatch it back and forth while sticking with AMD. Or he can do the smart thing and just get rid of AMD and go Nvidia.


----------



## Dan2100

Hi there, I live in Ontario, Canada and have seen varying reports of customs and taxes charged for importing, from $0 to $75.

How can I avoid this? A specific seller? Ask them to mark it as a gift? A lower value?

Anyone have any experience?

Thanks


----------



## Noshandy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I run mine at 96Hz. First have them set as separate monitors. Then, make the custom resolution for each at 96Hz and apply the custom resolution to each. Then go to Surround, and select 96Hz. You can not use bezel correction, if you try, it will default to 60 hz, even though it lists 96hz as available.
> 
> If you have any questions feel free.


Ok so an update. I've done as suggested and setup two custom resolutions for each monitor. One at 96hz and the other 120hz.

Before selecting the nvidia surround I made sure all screens were at 96hz. Once selected I had 120hz running but no 96hz. Can't complain but would feel happier with them running at 96hz.

Thanks again for the advice.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noshandy*
> 
> Ok so an update. I've done as suggested and setup two custom resolutions for each monitor. One at 96hz and the other 120hz.
> 
> Before selecting the nvidia surround I made sure all screens were at 96hz. Once selected I had 120hz running but no 96hz. Can't complain but would feel happier with them running at 96hz.
> 
> Thanks again for the advice.


I only had 96Hz resolutions, so didn't have an issue. Interestingly enough, I just added 110 Hz ( One of mine can't do 120), and just like you, it went to the higher resolution, and the only options once in surround was 110 or 60Hz.

If you don't run at 120Hz, I would recommend deleting those profiles, and just have the 96Hz if that is what you want to run at.


----------



## Noshandy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I only had 96Hz resolutions, so didn't have an issue. Interestingly enough, I just added 110 Hz ( One of mine can't do 120), and just like you, it went to the higher resolution, and the only options once in surround was 110 or 60Hz.
> 
> If you don't run at 120Hz, I would recommend deleting those profiles, and just have the 96Hz if that is what you want to run at.


Yep that works. Just allowed the one custom resolution for all monitors at 96hz and now have 96hz surround.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nwanko*
> 
> Can anyone tell me at least how to add the color profiles for every refresh rate in windows settings to override the stock ones so i dont have to have color sustainer opened all the time, i'm using the Yasamoka ICM profiles for Qnix. 60,96,110hz files.


There's a reason I created the app. You can't have the profiles loaded for different refresh rates without an application to do that. Forcing color profiles also needs an application that keeps checking whether the profile is loaded or not. Just go to settings and choose run on startup and Color Sustainer will remain out of the way. It draws 0.1% CPU usage at most and <10MB of RAM so I don't see why you wouldn't keep it running.


----------



## mrfahrenheit94

A week since ordering and not a word from ipsledmonitors.com. Not responding to emails or calls.

Those of you that ordered from them, did you have a similar experience? I'm wondering if they'll even refund my money if I cancel the order since the company seems to have disappeared.

This sucks.

How long did it take you until it went out of the processing stage? I understand it seems like a lot of you ordered from eBay, which mightve been my mistake, but I just wanted to know a few experiences beyond what's already in this thread (which seem to be positive) regarding the website.


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrfahrenheit94*
> 
> A week since ordering and not a word from ipsledmonitors.com. Not responding to emails or calls.
> 
> Those of you that ordered from them, did you have a similar experience? I'm wondering if they'll even refund my money if I cancel the order since the company seems to have disappeared.
> 
> This sucks.
> 
> How long did it take you until it went out of the processing stage? I understand it seems like a lot of you ordered from eBay, which mightve been my mistake, but I just wanted to know a few experiences beyond what's already in this thread (which seem to be positive) regarding the website.


I've never heard of them before , I just ordered mine of the ebay guys in Korea arrived within 5 days on both occasions

Did you pay for it using paypal ? If so I would grass them up to paypal


----------



## mrfahrenheit94

No PayPal, and I was recommended to the site by a dude from reddit and a few people who ordered from them on this thread. Might have to take it up with the CC company.


----------



## rjeftw

Who is everyone buying these from, Dream seller doesn't have my Xstar for $280 anymore

I really want an ultrawide, but I could just buy 2 more 27's.


----------



## OkanG

Bought mine off of ebay from AccessoriesWhole or something. Took a while, but if you're in the US, it takes like two days for it to get to you! It took me almost 10 days though, since I live in Denmark.


----------



## mrfahrenheit94

Just got a text message saying DHL is going to be delivering a package on Monday, and I don't have any other packages I'm expecting so this might be it

Edit: yep, it's shipping from Korea so this is it. Will post pics Wednesday.


----------



## JMattes

Anyone looking for a glossy display?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-Evolution-ll-27-Widescreen-LED-LCD-Monitor-/301385510817?ssPageName=ADME:B:BODO:US:1

I already confirmed that its DVI Input Only..

Wish it was matte.. or I would of already bought it..


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Anyone looking for a glossy display?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-Evolution-ll-27-Widescreen-LED-LCD-Monitor-/301385510817?ssPageName=ADME:B:BODO:US:1
> 
> I already confirmed that its DVI Input Only..
> 
> Wish it was matte.. or I would of already bought it..


Is it a real glossy or tempered over matte?

Edit: Just inquired with the seller.


----------



## JMattes

He said real glossy but I highly doubt hes an expert..
He never overclocked it.. so proceed at your own risk.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> He said real glossy but I highly doubt hes an expert..
> He never overclocked it.. so proceed at your own risk.


ahh!! Those are the same questions I asked lol

Good price though!


----------



## Ovrclck

So I just installed the HP stand...and I don't like it! Going back to Ergotron (was borrowing one from work)


----------



## OkanG

For what it's worth, I can recommend Duronic stands. I have one of those you clamp to your desk, and it's great. I can't compare to other stands as it's the only one I've tried, but it's pretty much flawless


----------



## JMattes

Anyone looking at possibly selling a QNIX Evolution II matte finish?


----------



## castlefire

cant find any more of that model


----------



## jmstrat22

I'm using crossfired R9 280x's just overclocking my panel for the first time. Everything is smooth as I had hoped for at 96hz except for youtube and the w8.1 netflix app. Basically the netflix app just displays a constant green screen while audio streams fine. Also half of the youtube videos I watch don't have video but the sound is there. What can I do to remedy this? Thanks.


----------



## kennyparker1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmstrat22*
> 
> I'm using crossfired R9 280x's just overclocking my panel for the first time. Everything is smooth as I had hoped for at 96hz except for youtube and the w8.1 netflix app. Basically the netflix app just displays a constant green screen while audio streams fine. Also half of the youtube videos I watch don't have video but the sound is there. What can I do to remedy this? Thanks.


If your using Chrome then currently Netflix is broken on Chrome for anything over 60Hz.
It thinks you are trying to break the encryption on the connection and it disables the stream partially or fully.
I haven't tried Firefox but it since Netflix doesn't stream anything past 30Hz then a simple solution is just to set the monitor to 60Hz for Netflix viewing.

For Youtube and Firefox make sure you have the latest version of FLash.
If using Chrome you can go to chrome://plugins and disable Flash and just use the HTML5 player for Youtube.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> So I just installed the HP stand...and I don't like it! Going back to Ergotron (was borrowing one from work)


Its hard to compete with an Ergotron. What didnt you like about the HP stand?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Its hard to compete with an Ergotron. What didnt you like about the HP stand?


Just how the stand doesn't support the weight of the monitor. I already knew that prior to purchasing the HP stand.


----------



## celmaitarero

Hello guys!
If you are so kind, I hope you`ll help me in a problem, that I`m struggling for a while. I have a monitor, who it was reviewed here:
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm
Couples days ago, I bought a DP to DP cable, to see how it works on a virtual 4K. I have a ATI card (290X) and a DP 1.2 (AWG 28) cable. Now, after I shut down the PC, when I power on (the PC), my monitor enter directly to power save mode.... (if i disconnect the power cord of the monitor and i started again, it works). I was reading on the internet, lots of cases (in particullary on the Dell`s monitors) - but i don`t know what I have to do.
Soon, someone, told me something, that the monitor is set on DP 1.1 and now I have to switch it on DP 1.2 through "factory menu".
If you have any ideea how to fix my problem, or how to enter in factory menu - I`ll be grateful.
Excuse my bad English.
Have a great day!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Its hard to compete with an Ergotron. What didnt you like about the HP stand?
> 
> 
> 
> Just how the stand doesn't support the weight of the monitor. I already knew that prior to purchasing the HP stand.
Click to expand...

That is weird, I have my monitor de-bezeled and my stand will hold the monitor at all height adjustment levels


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Just how the stand doesn't support the weight of the monitor. I already knew that prior to purchasing the HP stand.


Is there a possible nut or screw hidden away somewhere on the stand that might allow for tighter control of the weight support? Sometimes something like that might exist, so its just a thought.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> That is weird, I have my monitor de-bezeled and my stand will hold the monitor at all height adjustment levels


let me verify tonight. The button on the stand might be stuck.


----------



## asuka10456

Can someone do me a favor? I need someone who ordered one of the x-star samsung pls monitor to post a picture of it. I received 1 today, its the 4th one I've gotten over a year. The color seems way off and it no longer says LED on the top left side of the bezel, it says DP2710LED.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> Can someone do me a favor? I need someone who ordered one of the x-star samsung pls monitor to post a picture of it. I received 1 today, its the 4th one I've gotten over a year. The color seems way off and it no longer says LED on the top left side of the bezel, it says DP2710LED.


From what I know, that's what it should say. Have you tried some color calibration? How bad is it?


----------



## asuka10456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> From what I know, that's what it should say. Have you tried some color calibration? How bad is it?


I'm using the same hz, same color profile

http://i4.minus.com/iYo27e3BHpHrd.jpg

its just so damn yellow/different, colors are worse, Its hard to show in a picture but take a look.

Also every other x-star pls says LED on the top left of the bezel it does not say the entire model number like this one.


----------



## Sempre

This is a post from the BF4 thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Buggy? Do you think it was the controller? I havent heard any bad experiences with the Swift until yours. I have been thinking about getting one.
> 
> Not sure how much 144 Hz will help a IPS panel. IPS/PLS just have so slow gray to gray response time compared to a TN panel. With my Korean OCable PLS 1440p there is really no visual difference from running 96Hz/FPS compared to 120Hz/FPS. The mouse input lag might feel a little snappier @ 120, but there is motion blur due to the slow GTG that there is really not a visual difference. On the other hand there is a big difference from 60 to 96Hz on my PLS. My guess is the slow GTG does not show itself until the panel is refreshing faster than the response time.
> 
> When i had my Asus TN 120Hz panel the difference from 96 to 120Hz was very clear.


These are really interesting points. Never thought about that.
So basically these PLS panels will never be as fluid as lightboost TN panels, so is there a point running them @120Hz?

I too notice a big difference when going from 60Hz to 96Hz on my Qnix. I never really bothered testing 96Hz vs 120Hz extensively, since i mainly play BF4 which i rarely go above 100 FPS anyway.

Anyone has thoughts about this?


----------



## JMattes

Anyone running 2 QNIXs on a 970?
If so any problems?
Does both the DVI and DVI-D ports work?


----------



## MenacingTuba

My cat scratched the center of my nearly bleed free glossy X-Star, so I bought a glossy Qnix from bigclothcraft. The box was well packaged, but the panel is pretty loose and it uses LED PWM Dimming (Side Effects) like the other newer, tested units. The panel was pretty loose inside the casing,

The preset colour accuracy changed since the gamma tries to match a sRGB curve instead of a weird curve like the older, glossy Qnix/X-Stars, and the colours look more neutral compared to the older glossy versions. Overlocking the monitor to 96hz (have not tried to OC it higher) barely effects the measured colour accuracy unlike the older versions, but the overall image quality has been reduced since the newer panel has a smaller colour space and can only cover 90% (on par with the cheaper 1080p AH-IPS and AD-PLS panels) of the sRGB colour space compared to 97% after calibration.

Pixel response times (ghosting) remain identical (Test UFO Ghosting Test), but the versions which use PWM are blurrier vs. the PWM free versions (PWM Test). The build quality of the panel housing has been significantly reduced. The panel 'rests' inside instead of being clipped in, and the metal frame is covered by black tape. The metal clips in the four corners are pretty flimsy, and the top 2 of mine needed to be straightened out since they were pretty bent.


*Summary*

+Improved preset colour accuracy, but still not as good as the matte Qnix I tested
+Image quality barely changes when overclocked to 96hz
+no screen uniformity issues when overclocked to 96hz
-Inferior interior panel housing and build quality
-LED PWM Dimming=more motion blur vs. PWM Free versions
-Reduced calibrated colour accuracy and colour vibrancy

PWM bothers me so I will be getting rid of this soon and will live the the swoopy scratch in the center of my glossy X-Star.


----------



## celmaitarero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celmaitarero*
> 
> Hello guys!
> If you are so kind, I hope you`ll help me in a problem, that I`m struggling for a while. I have a monitor, who it was reviewed here:
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm
> Couples days ago, I bought a DP to DP cable, to see how it works on a virtual 4K. I have a ATI card (290X) and a DP 1.2 (AWG 28) cable. Now, after I shut down the PC, when I power on (the PC), my monitor enter directly to power save mode.... (if i disconnect the power cord of the monitor and i started again, it works). I was reading on the internet, lots of cases (in particullary on the Dell`s monitors) - but i don`t know what I have to do.
> Soon, someone, told me something, that the monitor is set on DP 1.1 and now I have to switch it on DP 1.2 through "factory menu".
> If you have any ideea how to fix my problem, or how to enter in factory menu - I`ll be grateful.
> Excuse my bad English.
> Have a great day!


Any ideea, someone, please?


----------



## OkanG

Weird.. I couldn't do 110Hz on my Qnix first day I got it. It just went back to 60Hz (crash, I assume?) after like 30 seconds. Now it does 110Hz easily, frame skip tested with a camera and everything. I guess I'll try it, if I don't like it, I'll go back to 96Hz. The more Hz the better for me though, I play a lot of fps games









EDIT: Nevermind







I realized I got slightly visible purple vertical lines on 110Hz. It's closer to "stable" than before where I would get the green lines all over the screen, but it's not good enough. I tried installing the Qnix drivers and tighten the timings which helped a bit, but I'm still not stable at 110Hz, let alone 120Hz as some are reporting









I guess I'll stay on 96Hz for now


----------



## MrRoy

I am unable to set a custom resolution in my NVidia control panel. I have a 680 and have tried both the latest drivers as well as some older driver. In both cases, whenever I try entering a a custom resolution, I get a "Test failed. Custom resolution [X] is not supported by your display".
I did install the custom QNIX drivers so that's not it. I have tried different combinations of resolutions, ranging from 120 to 60, and even the most basic change to a 60Hz resolution gives me the same error. Basically I am unable to change anything regarding the resolution.

I used to be able to get 96Hz and 110Hz in the past on this same monitor, however somehow I lost my resolution settings and now I am unable to get them back.

Please let me know what I can do to troubleshoot this issue further as right now my monitor is stuck at 60Hz


----------



## OkanG

Do you have the newest drivers for your graphics card? I have read that they can cause problems with overclocked monitors, so try reverting back to 344.48.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrRoy*
> 
> I am unable to set a custom resolution in my NVidia control panel. I have a 680 and have tried both the latest drivers as well as some older driver. In both cases, whenever I try entering a a custom resolution, I get a "Test failed. Custom resolution [X] is not supported by your display".
> I did install the custom QNIX drivers so that's not it. I have tried different combinations of resolutions, ranging from 120 to 60, and even the most basic change to a 60Hz resolution gives me the same error. Basically I am unable to change anything regarding the resolution.
> 
> I used to be able to get 96Hz and 110Hz in the past on this same monitor, however somehow I lost my resolution settings and now I am unable to get them back.
> 
> Please let me know what I can do to troubleshoot this issue further as right now my monitor is stuck at 60Hz


An obvious one: Did you click(select) "Enable Resolutions not exposed by the display" This used to say "not supported by the display" which makes more sense.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Do you have the newest drivers for your graphics card? I have read that they can cause problems with overclocked monitors, so try reverting back to 344.48.


I am running the latest driver and was able to overclock to 96Hz with no problem.


----------



## MrRoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Do you have the newest drivers for your graphics card? I have read that they can cause problems with overclocked monitors, so try reverting back to 344.48.


I had 344.48 originally, I then upgraded to 344.65. Then, I downgraded to 335.23. Neither of these 3 version allows me to set any custom resolution of any kind (not even 60Hz with modified timings)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> An obvious one: Did you click(select) "Enable Resolutions not exposed by the display" This used to say "not supported by the display" which makes more sense.


Yes this is enabled.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrRoy*
> 
> I had 344.48 originally, I then upgraded to 344.65. Then, I downgraded to 335.23. Neither of these 3 version allows me to set any custom resolution of any kind (even 60Hz with modified timings)
> Yes this is enabled.


Did you do a full uninstall using Display Driver Uninstall (DDU) from safe mode prior to installing the drivers?


----------



## Alexyy

I've been looking and I found this would it be a good choice?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111482849722


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexyy*
> 
> I've been looking and I found this would it be a good choice?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111482849722


Yeah thats what I've got , pretty awesome monitor


----------



## Alexyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> Yeah thats what I've got , pretty awesome monitor


Turns out that one doesn't ship to the UK could you find me a good one that does?


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexyy*
> 
> Turns out that one doesn't ship to the UK could you find me a good one that does?


I got mine off these guys

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/accessorieswhole?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

Ordered on Tuesday arrived Friday morning to me in Edinburgh


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> This is a post from the BF4 thread:
> These are really interesting points. Never thought about that.
> So basically these PLS panels will never be as fluid as lightboost TN panels, so is there a point running them @120Hz?
> 
> I too notice a big difference when going from 60Hz to 96Hz on my Qnix. I never really bothered testing 96Hz vs 120Hz extensively, since i mainly play BF4 which i rarely go above 100 FPS anyway.
> 
> Anyone has thoughts about this?


Yes these IPS/PLS panels will never be as fluid as lightboost TN panels for FPS gaming when Overclocked








These are well known points, BUT the superior picture/color quality of an IPS/PLS vs a TN panel is also quite obvious! Note, I do not use my panel strictly for fast-twitch FPS gaming! I do notice the difference between 96Hz and 120Hz in FPS gaming, so for me I use the higher res in that application. You will have to test it for yourself to see if it's worth the risk/improvement? Also note I come from a the "old-school" high-end Sony/NEC CRT @85Hz days way back when, and have yet to see the overall performance/quality that provided ... close but not quite there yet









Overall It's a tradeoff IMO, I just can't tolerate the picture/color quality of a TN panel since I moved to IPS/PLS, but I was annoyed with the "lag"? present @60Hz ... so an overclocked IPS/PLS was the right "compromise" for me









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> My cat scratched the center of my nearly bleed free glossy X-Star, so I bought a glossy Qnix from bigclothcraft. The box was well packaged, but the panel is pretty loose and it uses LED PWM Dimming (Side Effects) like the other newer, tested units. The panel was pretty loose inside the casing,
> 
> The preset colour accuracy changed since the gamma tries to match a sRGB curve instead of a weird curve like the older, glossy Qnix/X-Stars, and the colours look more neutral compared to the older glossy versions. Overlocking the monitor to 96hz (have not tried to OC it higher) barely effects the measured colour accuracy unlike the older versions, but the overall image quality has been reduced since the newer panel has a smaller colour space and can only cover 90% (on par with the cheaper 1080p AH-IPS and AD-PLS panels) of the sRGB colour space compared to 97% after calibration.
> 
> Pixel response times (ghosting) remain identical (Test UFO Ghosting Test), but the versions which use PWM are blurrier vs. the PWM free versions (PWM Test). The build quality of the panel housing has been significantly reduced. The panel 'rests' inside instead of being clipped in, and the metal frame is covered by black tape. The metal clips in the four corners are pretty flimsy, and the top 2 of mine needed to be straightened out since they were pretty bent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Summary*
> 
> +Improved preset colour accuracy, but still not as good as the matte Qnix I tested
> +Image quality barely changes when overclocked to 96hz
> +no screen uniformity issues when overclocked to 96hz
> -Inferior interior panel housing and build quality
> -LED PWM Dimming=more motion blur vs. PWM Free versions
> -Reduced calibrated colour accuracy and colour vibrancy
> 
> PWM bothers me so I will be getting rid of this soon and will live the the swoopy scratch in the center of my glossy X-Star.


Nice report +R ... But what a bummer, PWM dimming. Was there anyway to differentiate between your older non-PWM panel and this one? Like maybe one is an "SE" model and that is reflected in the serial numbers? Or maybe you have a slightly different variant of the PCB or the panel itself? IDK I guess PWM dimming is just as much a crapshoot as getting a golden 120Hz OC'er









ALSO how, or did you confirm with bigclothcraft that you were getting a true "glossy" and not a tempered glass model?
How much did it cost? Was it in the $320-$350 range?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celmaitarero*
> 
> Hello guys!
> If you are so kind, I hope you`ll help me in a problem, that I`m struggling for a while. I have a monitor, who it was reviewed here:
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm
> Couples days ago, I bought a DP to DP cable, to see how it works on a virtual 4K. I have a ATI card (290X) and a DP 1.2 (AWG 28) cable. Now, after I shut down the PC, when I power on (the PC), my monitor enter directly to power save mode.... (if i disconnect the power cord of the monitor and i started again, it works). I was reading on the internet, lots of cases (in particullary on the Dell`s monitors) - but i don`t know what I have to do.
> Soon, someone, told me something, that the monitor is set on DP 1.1 and now I have to switch it on DP 1.2 through "factory menu".
> If you have any ideea how to fix my problem, or how to enter in factory menu - I`ll be grateful.
> Excuse my bad English.
> Have a great day!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *celmaitarero*
> 
> Any ideea, someone, please?
Click to expand...

That is a True10 model with an OSD but I have not encountered anyone that has accessed the "Factory" settings.
I would contact QNIX directly or your seller for advise ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrRoy*
> 
> I am unable to set a custom resolution in my NVidia control panel. I have a 680 and have tried both the latest drivers as well as some older driver. In both cases, whenever I try entering a a custom resolution, I get a "Test failed. Custom resolution [X] is not supported by your display".
> I did install the custom QNIX drivers so that's not it. I have tried different combinations of resolutions, ranging from 120 to 60, and even the most basic change to a 60Hz resolution gives me the same error. Basically I am unable to change anything regarding the resolution.
> 
> I used to be able to get 96Hz and 110Hz in the past on this same monitor, however somehow I lost my resolution settings and now I am unable to get them back.
> 
> Please let me know what I can do to troubleshoot this issue further as right now my monitor is stuck at 60Hz


This seems to happen a lot these days, all the suggestions about complete clean driver re-installs are what I'd also suggest 1st ... But some users (ie. latprod) only regained their OC settings with a system restore or a backup system image previous to the loss of your settings ... try that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexyy*
> 
> I've been looking and I found this would it be a good choice?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111482849722


That is an overclockable model @ an excellent price for glossy?, with a somewhat popular/reputable? seller, with the exception of their True10 model OC deception. My only concern is if you want a genuine "glossy" panel, I'd get it in writing that it is NOT a "Tempered Glass" over Matte model AND if you disassemble it and find tempered glass that they, accessorieswhole pays the return shipping for exchange or refund if they can't provide a true glossy panel


----------



## Alexyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> I got mine off these guys
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/accessorieswhole?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
> 
> Ordered on Tuesday arrived Friday morning to me in Edinburgh


Hmm this one?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c3b6ce452

Or this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/121457291776?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c476b3200#shpCntId


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexyy*
> 
> Hmm this one?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c3b6ce452
> 
> Or this?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/121457291776?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c476b3200#shpCntId


I got the got the matte one but it's up to you really. Glossy if you're not going to have any light shining on it


----------



## Alexyy

Alright since my desk is in the corner of my room it tends to avoid direct sunlight so would the glossy option be much better or not?


----------



## daviejams

Its a personal preference really you'll do fine with either


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Was there anyway to differentiate between your older non-PWM panel and this one?


No, these have always suffered from PWM lottery. I lucked out with my matte, glow+PWM free Qnix, PWM free, PWM free glossy X-Star and former PWM free glossy Qnix which I sold. Yasamoka has a PWM but non glow free matte Qnix, but versions with PWM have been around since they launched in spring 2013. =DEAD= (overclock.ru) tested a matte Qnix in 2013 with a pathetically low 130hz LED PWM Dimming Frequency. Samsung's 1000$ S27B970/971D are also sold with and without (130hz) PWM, so blame them since they make PLS panels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 1.) Also how, or did you confirm with bigclothcraft that you were getting a true "glossy" and not a tempered glass model?
> 2.) How much did it cost? Was it in the $320-$350 range?


1.) I asked 3 sellers (accesorieswhole, bigclothcraft and dream-seller) and they all claimed to be selling true glossy panels.
2.) 340$ best offer for a pixel perfect version (360$=regular price). bcc ignored a few of my offers though.

*Correction, I bought the glossy Qnix from excellentcastle.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> No, these have always suffered from PWM lottery. I lucked out with my matte, glow+PWM free Qnix, PWM free, PWM free glossy X-Star and former PWM free glossy Qnix which I sold. Yasamoka has a PWM but non glow free matte Qnix, but versions with PWM have been around since they launched in spring 2013. =DEAD= (overclock.ru) tested a matte Qnix in 2013 with a pathetically low 130hz LED PWM Dimming Frequency. Samsung's 1000$ S27B970/971D are also sold with and without (130hz) PWM, so blame them since they make PLS panels.
> 1.) I asked 3 sellers (accesorieswhole, bigclothcraft and dream-seller) and they all claimed to be selling true glossy panels.
> 2.) 340$ best offer for a pixel perfect version (360$=regular price). bcc ignored a few of my offers though.
> 
> *Correction, I bought the glossy Qnix from excellentcastle.


Nice info +R







.... Yep I was afraid of the PWM being a lottery also







...
It just seemed the early releases (spring to late summer 2013) were PWM free, mine was, it's from the August 2013 batches ...


----------



## jayce47

Hey. I recently got a QNIX that shipped fairly quickly.Had to pay customs but oh well (Canada).

Plugged it in and everything seemed okay. Went straight to overclocking with 110hz and didn't notice any artifacts. Went to 120hz and i saw some green lines.

So i went back to 110hz and started up some games. Went with BF4 and it looked great until i noticed that when i was looking at the sky, i noticed a block of purple on the top right of my screen. Switched to another game with white clouds and same thing. At 60hz, this does not happen. Does this mean my monitor is unstable at 110hz? I'll try some of the different timings suggested.

Other than that i have another concern. on the bottom left of my screen i noticed some dark shaped lines. Not very long and it is only noticeable under certain colors which is why i only noticed when i was browsing the web. There are 2 darkish lines and just a few CM long. I'm not too bothered by it because it is barely visible.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayce47*
> 
> Hey. I recently got a QNIX that shipped fairly quickly.Had to pay customs but oh well (Canada).
> 
> Plugged it in and everything seemed okay. Went straight to overclocking with 110hz and didn't notice any artifacts. Went to 120hz and i saw some green lines.
> 
> So i went back to 110hz and started up some games. Went with BF4 and it looked great until i noticed that when i was looking at the sky, i noticed a block of purple on the top right of my screen. Switched to another game with white clouds and same thing. At 60hz, this does not happen. Does this mean my monitor is unstable at 110hz? I'll try some of the different timings suggested.
> 
> Other than that i have another concern. on the bottom left of my screen i noticed some dark shaped lines. Not very long and it is only noticeable under certain colors which is why i only noticed when i was browsing the web. There are 2 darkish lines and just a few CM long. I'm not too bothered by it because it is barely visible.


Happens for me at 110Hz too. Your monitor is not stable at 110Hz. I keep it at 96Hz, would probably be good for you too


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Can someone at 96hz send me the ICC profile that they're using? I've tried a ton and I feel like I always like the default profile better. Is it just preference?


All the monitors are not exactly the same color from default, so what might look better for you might be something completely different for another. There are some known color profiles out there, I think they're on the first post of this thread. I've had it at default since I got my monitor, haven't really bothered to try anything else. It interferes with my f.lux


----------



## thelveres

Hi there, it seems I have bought the wrong monitor (got the multi input one), so now I am returning it before it goes through customs, and I am thinking of ordering this one from the same seller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649

Is it the right one to get ? I wanna be sure this time..

Although it kinda sucks, I am gonna have to wait another month almost before this one arrives as well, wonder if I can get better delivery options for a reasonable price..

Should I go ahead with this, I need an ips 2560 monitor suitable for gaming.. hope I am not making a mistake and there is another one close to release.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Anyone have Lawsons 110hz 24/7 timings listed somewhere. His pictures are microscopic to me and I can't seem to find my microscope. lol


----------



## mrfahrenheit94

So QX2710 arrived...and it seems DOA.

I really hope it's not. But I plugged it into the graphics card (GTX 970) and I can see the backlight on the monitor, but no image.

I installed the monitor driver, still nothing.

And when I cycle power on the monitor it shows a bright, grey image that fades to black with the normal amount of backlight bleed.

Please please please tell me that I'm just doing something wrong and that it's not DOA.

I've also tried another dual link dvi with the same results.

EDIT: I'm reading about people's power supplies providing 24v? The sticker on the back of the monitor says 12v, and with a multimeter, the brick was supplying ~12. Also, a noisy windows background flashed in twice in the past 10 minutes just momentarily.

Double edit: I've been looking at some of the nvidia timing threads, and using some custom timings, I can get some images to show up!!! I think this might be progress. It's strange...using the timings works...for half of the screen. The right half goes up to 120hz with the timings in this picture

http://cdn.overclock.net/6/61/617f78ea_Nvidia120hztimings.png

But the left half of the monitor is straight up black. Might it be that I need a better DVI cable?


----------



## Nighthawkcb650

I purchased the QX2710 back in September and I have been loving it.

I was able to overclock the monitor to 96hz, anything higher and I was seeing artifacts. I was loving the experience of it.

Recently I have been having issues with my graphics card crashing on me. I thought it was the VRAM and had gone bad, but when I am just running on my older 1680x1050 monitor there is no crash and everything is stable. When I am running at 2560x1440 my card crashes. Even at 60hz I still get crashes.

Has anyone experienced this or have any recommendations?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrfahrenheit94*
> 
> So QX2710 arrived...and it seems DOA.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I really hope it's not. But I plugged it into the graphics card (GTX 970) and I can see the backlight on the monitor, but no image.
> 
> I installed the monitor driver, still nothing.
> 
> And when I cycle power on the monitor it shows a bright, grey image that fades to black with the normal amount of backlight bleed.
> 
> Please please please tell me that I'm just doing something wrong and that it's not DOA.
> 
> I've also tried another dual link dvi with the same results.
> 
> EDIT: I'm reading about people's power supplies providing 24v? The sticker on the back of the monitor says 12v, and with a multimeter, the brick was supplying ~12. Also, a noisy windows background flashed in twice in the past 10 minutes just momentarily.
> 
> Double edit: I've been looking at some of the nvidia timing threads, and using some custom timings, I can get some images to show up!!! I think this might be progress. It's strange...using the timings works...for half of the screen. The right half goes up to 120hz with the timings in this picture
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/6/61/617f78ea_Nvidia120hztimings.png
> 
> But the left half of the monitor is straight up black. Might it be that I need a better DVI cable?


Sorry for your trouble. You should not be needing special timings to get the monitor to work. Is it the only monitor you have plugged in to your GPU?
I think it sounds DOA.


----------



## mrfahrenheit94

Once I ran the patcher I didn't have to use custom timings to get at least half of the screen to show up.

...the one thing I didn't try...disconnecting the other monitor. And it worked, I had a view at the full screen, at 96hz. Brought it up to 120, with a bit of cloudy pixels, but 110 seemed nice so I stuck with that. Soon after, the left half got all fuzzy, so I downgraded back to 96hz...at which point the left half was out - black.

Wow...from no input, to getting half a screen, to then the full screen. I was so excited.

Anyway, I tried bringing it down to 60hz to see if that'd resolve it but that mode is just straight up incompatible with the monitor. I'm hoping that just maybe it's a driver/video card issue because now that I think about it I wasn't able to test another computer because I just have a laptop with hdmi and vga out. And it was weird, when I connected the laptop via an hdmi to single link dvi, my laptop got a bsod. So technically I haven't tested another computer.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Anyone have Lawsons 110hz 24/7 timings listed somewhere. His pictures are microscopic to me and I can't seem to find my microscope. lol


In the updated instuctions on the first page, there's these settings in Lawsons guide: http://cdn.overclock.net/d/d5/d56330ff_tomcatscreenshot1.jpeg

Are you looking for the AMD ones?`: http://cdn.overclock.net/8/8f/8fa47448_110hzmemorydownclockabletimings.jpeg


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> In the updated instuctions on the first page, there's these settings in Lawsons guide: http://cdn.overclock.net/d/d5/d56330ff_tomcatscreenshot1.jpeg
> 
> Are you looking for the AMD ones?`: http://cdn.overclock.net/8/8f/8fa47448_110hzmemorydownclockabletimings.jpeg


Yeah I can't read those on my computer. However checking out your reply on my android tablet I realize that the screenshots are now readable. I guess the extremely high ppi helps clear things up a bit. Lol

Anyway I got my monitor safely to 100hz and going to wait until I get my 980 to go any further. Thanks


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## bond32

Spent some money today... Have 2 more Qnix monitors coming in to do an eyefinity setup with my xstar. Had to order an adapter too, stands, and power cables. Hope it all works like I think it will!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Spent some money today... Have 2 more Qnix monitors coming in to do an eyefinity setup with my xstar. Had to order an adapter too, stands, and power cables. Hope it all works like I think it will!


Baller alert







Post up a picture of your rig once its running


----------



## Jingiko

Hey guys so I have the Qnix model without a metal frame behind the bezel which only overclocks to 80-85Hz without distorting

The issue im having is im running off a Late 2013 MacBookPro Retina with GT750m GPU along with bootcamp Win8 Pro 64bit

When im in the Windows side I have an external GTX780 which I can easily connect to my MBP

MBP - Thunderbolt - GTX780 - XSTAR at 1440p no issues VIA bootcamp Windows8

When im on the MAC side the 1440 does not pick up when I use a Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport (directly to the macbook) no GTX780 enabled via thunderbolt.

What adapter do I need so I can use this monitor in both Windows and Mac off my MBP.

I do not mind unpluggin the GTX780 to DualLink DVI to an adapter when I switch between MAC and Windows


----------



## asuka10456

Anyone have any issues returning a defective monitor to dream-seller?

He gave me his ups account number to setup a return. I went to the UPS Store, they can't use his account number to do the return, only a corporate office can which is like a hour from me. He gives me instructions to call ups and setup a pick up using C.O.D. UPS said they can't do C.O.D. for International shipments. They send someone anyways to pickup the monitor. I don't have a shipping label because dream-seller won't provide one and the guy from UPS forgot to bring a waybill for me to fill out so he can't ship the monitor. I told him to read his pickup instructions, he says he already left the station when he got the pickup although it was made yesterday. He tells me to request another pickup.

I spent way too much of my time on this return, also dream-seller has not been helpful, It seems like he MIGHT reply once a day.This is his last reply to my message about them not being able to do a COD

Hi, Oh gosh that is such a non sense I think the UPS service on your city is like a crap so far our other customers could return the item as C.O.D. without much problem...

I apologize for all the troubles instead and really appreciate to all your trying and patience.

Please let us know if there is anything we can help.

Thank you
Regards

I replied asking for a shipping label for the 3rd time about 18 hours ago. I just messaged him again a few minutes ago asking for a shipping label again(4th) due to UPS not having the waybill on him. It says hes out of office till the 16th

So yeah, if you guys want to order monitors from dream-seller. Hope they are not defective because this return process is pretty damn annoying. The first 30 I turned the monitor on it was completely tinted yellow(my friend says red) and after that it began going full ******.

Pictures of Monitor issue

http://minus.com/mzJMMZYEBbhxU


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jingiko*
> 
> Hey guys so I have the Qnix model without a metal frame behind the bezel which only overclocks to 80-85Hz without distorting
> 
> The issue im having is im running off a Late 2013 MacBookPro Retina with GT750m GPU along with bootcamp Win8 Pro 64bit
> 
> When im in the Windows side I have an external GTX780 which I can easily connect to my MBP
> 
> MBP - Thunderbolt - GTX780 - XSTAR at 1440p no issues VIA bootcamp Windows8
> 
> When im on the MAC side the 1440 does not pick up when I use a Dual Link DVI to Mini Displayport (directly to the macbook) no GTX780 enabled via thunderbolt.
> 
> What adapter do I need so I can use this monitor in both Windows and Mac off my MBP.
> 
> I do not mind unpluggin the GTX780 to DualLink DVI to an adapter when I switch between MAC and Windows


You need a powered DP to DVI adaptor. I can't guarantee it will work with your MBP, but it works with my HP Laptop, If you search this forum you should find comments about ones that work. I linked one from Amazon, and someone else found one on Ebay that worked for them.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Sequel to my last post.


__
https://flic.kr/p/q3QwG6


__
https://flic.kr/p/p749o1

The original version uses a Samsung LTM270DL02 S-PLS panel while the new version uses a Samsung LTM270DL07 S-PLS panel.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Sequel to my last post.
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/q3QwG6
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/p749o1
> 
> The original version uses a Samsung LTM270DL02 S-PLS panel while the new version uses a Samsung LTM270DL07 S-PLS panel.


Huge bombshell. Deserves Pulitzer Prize for investigative tech reporting.


----------



## rjeftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> Anyone have any issues returning a defective monitor to dream-seller?
> 
> He gave me his ups account number to setup a return. I went to the UPS Store, they can't use his account number to do the return, only a corporate office can which is like a hour from me. He gives me instructions to call ups and setup a pick up using C.O.D. UPS said they can't do C.O.D. for International shipments. They send someone anyways to pickup the monitor. I don't have a shipping label because dream-seller won't provide one and the guy from UPS forgot to bring a waybill for me to fill out so he can't ship the monitor. I told him to read his pickup instructions, he says he already left the station when he got the pickup although it was made yesterday. He tells me to request another pickup.
> 
> I spent way too much of my time on this return, also dream-seller has not been helpful, It seems like he MIGHT reply once a day.This is his last reply to my message about them not being able to do a COD
> 
> Hi, Oh gosh that is such a non sense I think the UPS service on your city is like a crap so far our other customers could return the item as C.O.D. without much problem...
> 
> I apologize for all the troubles instead and really appreciate to all your trying and patience.
> 
> Please let us know if there is anything we can help.
> 
> Thank you
> Regards
> 
> I replied asking for a shipping label for the 3rd time about 18 hours ago. I just messaged him again a few minutes ago asking for a shipping label again(4th) due to UPS not having the waybill on him. It says hes out of office till the 16th
> 
> So yeah, if you guys want to order monitors from dream-seller. Hope they are not defective because this return process is pretty damn annoying. The first 30 I turned the monitor on it was completely tinted yellow(my friend says red) and after that it began going full ******.
> 
> Pictures of Monitor issue
> 
> http://minus.com/mzJMMZYEBbhxU


I didn't have any issues with mine from dreamseller, hopefully don't have to worry about a defective monitor if I purchase again.


----------



## Dooms101

Wooooot.

I am here to join the club, just got two X-Star DP2710LED monitors from dream-seller on ebay. Not a single dead pixel on either and very good looking colors. They also arrived in literally 3 days from the time of purchase. I figured coming from Korea would take longer than that but I guess not.


----------



## asuka10456

He sent me a shipping label last night. Hopefully the next one he sends is good.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Sequel to my last post.
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/q3QwG6
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/p749o1
> 
> The original version uses a Samsung LTM270DL02 S-PLS panel while the new version uses a Samsung LTM270DL07 S-PLS panel.


WoW, pictures are worth a 1000 words ... different panel model #'s explains a lot (2011 vs 2013), more model info *HERE*








PWM is a deal killer for many of us ... but these pics show how important color space coverage is ...

Your new 2013 LTM270DL07 looks like a Matte panel with un-calibrated washed out colors









This is very disappointing ... Samsung you idiots, WHY ... WHY???









I'd take overclocked gamma correction needed for the "clarity" / and no PWM ... ANYDAY!!!
This puts the LG Glossy (Cat2B) solidly back in the lead for me ... even if the newer ones aren't reaching the higher OC's they use to ....

EDIT: MT you need to send this info to Samsung/QNIX engineers/RD and "Prey" someone takes notice!


----------



## bond32

I only have one x-star, but have 2 qnix on the way. I have always wondered if I should be adjusting the settings in AMD's CCC that are "DVI Settings" and "Image Scaling Preferences"... Do you guys adjust these?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> WoW, pictures are worth a 1000 words ... different panel model #'s explains a lot (2011 vs 2013), more model info *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM is a deal killer for many of us ... but these pics show how important color space coverage is ...


No they don't because the glossy X-Star's preset gamma is too high and causes over-saturation and minor black crush while thew glossy Qnix's (new panel) gamma is slightly too low, assuming one wants linear 2.2/REC 709 Gamma. The new version comes 'Black Equalized' (stupid BenQ TN feature) in a way since it tries to emulate an sRGB gamma curve.


__
https://flic.kr/p/pMBZBQ
 /&\

__
https://flic.kr/p/pMz8XS


----------



## sid4975

hey guys I just got a high quality monoprice dvi cable, it let me get to 105hz. still cant get 110







, but better then nothing I guess. this is my second qnix I ordered from neweggi sent the first one back cuz it wouldn't overclock past 84hz or so. so im just gonna b happy with what I got. The colors still looked alittle washed out to me, I don't know how to fix it.


----------



## ironhide138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sid4975*
> 
> hey guys I just got a high quality monoprice dvi cable, it let me get to 105hz. still cant get 110
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but better then nothing I guess. this is my second qnix I ordered from neweggi sent the first one back cuz it wouldn't overclock past 84hz or so. so im just gonna b happy with what I got. The colors still looked alittle washed out to me, I don't know how to fix it.


Has it only been like this since you got the 980? I just got a 970 and it looked wased out. https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/523992/tip-for-nvidia-users-using-hdmi-and-getting-accurate-color-format/ This first post fixed it for me.


----------



## sid4975

ok I did that thing u just said and im not 100% sure but I think that it does look better. Much more vibrant!. Im like 80% sure lol cuz im goofy. Thanx for the link!


----------



## giantry

Hi guys,

So I was trying to instal a vesa mount to the monitor and when I was screwing the plate on there was a crack and now the screw spins freely in the hole and I can't take it out. Do you guys have any recomendations on how to get the screws out?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giantry*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> So I was trying to instal a vesa mount to the monitor and when I was screwing the plate on there was a crack and now the screw spins freely in the hole and I can't take it out. Do you guys have any recomendations on how to get the screws out?


Drill out the screw. Probably make a mess though, I'd probably turn it upside down to do it.


----------



## jameyscott

Same thing happened to me. I just took it apart and held it with pinch nose pliers and took it out and reset the screw holder with super glue


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Same thing happened to me. I just took it apart and held it with pinch nose pliers and took it out and reset the screw holder with super glue


This is what I did also.


----------



## giantry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jameyscott*
> 
> Same thing happened to me. I just took it apart and held it with pinch nose pliers and took it out and reset the screw holder with super glue


Ok. sounds good. I'll probably do that next weekend. Thanks.


----------



## medikamina

Hey. Looking at getting either the Matte or Glossy Qnix in a week or two (UK). Does the monitor come with the cable I need to run at 96Hz or do I need to get one? If so, recommendations/links would be much appreciated!


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *medikamina*
> 
> Hey. Looking at getting either the Matte or Glossy Qnix in a week or two (UK). Does the monitor come with the cable I need to run at 96Hz or do I need to get one? If so, recommendations/links would be much appreciated!


It comes with a cable, most have found it good enough, others have decided to get different ones. YMMV, I would recommend trying the one that comes with the monitor, then if your not satisfied, look at buying a new one.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *medikamina*
> 
> Hey. Looking at getting either the Matte or Glossy Qnix in a week or two (UK). Does the monitor come with the cable I need to run at 96Hz or do I need to get one? If so, recommendations/links would be much appreciated!


There's a DVI-D cable included. You should definitely get 96Hz with the cable that comes with it


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Sequel to my last post.
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/q3QwG6
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/p749o1
> 
> The original version uses a Samsung LTM270DL02 S-PLS panel while the new version uses a Samsung LTM270DL07 S-PLS panel.


Wow the new Glossy colors looked washed out.

Are you sure the new Glossy was OCing properly? There is zero color shift between the 60 & 96Hz on the new Glossy. There is a very distinguishable color shift on the Original glossy 60 vs 96hz. This is shown very easily with having both tabs open and clicking back and forth from the 2 links you supplied.

Invaluable work as always Tuba. + Rep.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## machoihd

Hi,Can you guys give me some links of cheapest available qnix/xstar that using pls panel and overclockable fine from a positive seller ?
I found 3 links, which one is better ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19f4e53c3d qnix 309$ from accessorieswhole

http://www.ebay.com/itm/x-star-dp2710led-pls-panel-wqhd-2560x1440-27inch-computer-monitor-glossy/330932578190?hash=item4d0d1e678e xstar 319$ from dream-seller

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-WQHD-Samsung-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3 329$ from green-sum

Thanks you so much


----------



## OkanG

Got the one on the first link. Can recommend


----------



## sid4975

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> Has it only been like this since you got the 980? I just got a 970 and it looked wased out. https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/523992/tip-for-nvidia-users-using-hdmi-and-getting-accurate-color-format/ This first post fixed it for me.


I take my earlier post back, this definitely fixed my issues with the colors seeming dull. THANX a ton! Even games look amazing again.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> No they don't because the glossy X-Star's preset gamma is too high and causes over-saturation and minor black crush while thew glossy Qnix's (new panel) gamma is slightly too low, assuming one wants linear 2.2/REC 709 Gamma. The new version comes 'Black Equalized' (stupid BenQ TN feature) in a way since it tries to emulate an sRGB gamma curve.
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/pMBZBQ
> /&\
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/pMz8XS


Well I'm certainly not at your level of monitor technical diagnostics, maybe you could explain, more clearly in layman's terms for everyone, why you don't think it is the different panel model #'s (slightly different panels/firmware?) causing the noticeably different results after calibration









By the way the 1st link your comparing your older LTM270DL02 to the LTM270DL06 not your newer LTM270DL07, compounded by flickr not allowing me to zoom in? ... so I'm confused and there seems to be noticeable spec differences between the newer models like the slightly slower G2G response times (12Ms vs 15Ms G2G) which could indicate varying results overall because they are different panels, I thought? ...







... specs from TfT *HERE* (27"-27.8" tab)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Wow the new Glossy colors looked washed out.
> 
> Are you sure the new Glossy was OCing properly? There is zero color shift between the 60 & 96Hz on the new Glossy. There is a very distinguishable color shift on the Original glossy 60 vs 96hz. This is shown very easily with having both tabs open and clicking back and forth from the 2 links you supplied.
> 
> Invaluable work as always Tuba. + Rep.


Exactly! ... I also put the pictures side by side in different tabs, clicking between them, and came to the same conclusions you did!








Except overclocking ... I thought the differences were caused by a slightly different panel manufacturing process (batches?) hence the different panel model #'s and slightly different specs??? ...


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> Has it only been like this since you got the 980? I just got a 970 and it looked wased out. https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/523992/tip-for-nvidia-users-using-hdmi-and-getting-accurate-color-format/ This first post fixed it for me.


One of the posts further down in that thread mentions that the full range is enabled when using custom resolutions... Since most of us are overclocking these monitors to one degree or another, I'm not sure how this would affect us since you have to use a custom resolution to overclock?


----------



## sid4975

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> One of the posts further down in that thread mentions that the full range is enabled when using custom resolutions... Since most of us are overclocking these monitors to one degree or another, I'm not sure how this would affect us since you have to use a custom resolution to overclock?


Im not sure all I know is my colors were very dull before and after the overclock and that little fix did the trick.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Wow the new Glossy colors looked washed out.
> 
> Are you sure the new Glossy was OCing properly?


The preset gamma curve closely adheres to the sRGB standard (not washed out), and, yes I am sure the monitor overclocked properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well I'm certainly not at your level of monitor technical diagnostics, maybe you could explain, more clearly in layman's terms for everyone, why you don't think it is the different panel model #'s (slightly different panels/firmware?) causing the noticeably different results after calibration


I did mention that the new version tries to match a sRGB gamma curve and that the colours look more neutral than the original which has a weird gamma curve. I should have mentioned that the weird curve causes black crush. I removed the new panels bezel to fix the interior metal casing and checked the sticker on the back which contains the panel number (LTM270DL07). The HCFR measurement chart is supposed to have LTM270DL07 (new panel), not 06 (glow free PLS).


----------



## emperorr

Hello korean monitor friends.

So I find myself in a pickle. I have a x-star matte finish from dreamseller around 2012/2013 and now I'm looking for two more. Problem is Matte finish seems to be a rare commodity for non-multi/tru-10 panels. It seems like the matte's are going for around 50$ more than the glossy, so I have two questions.

First, should I spend the extra $100 for two matte finish panels? Cheapest I've been seeing is 349 each, (which is crazy since mine was 280 when I got it, you'd think prices should be going down, not up) Does anyone have pictures or anecdotal comments on seeing a matte+glossy side by side? Is it that big of a difference? I think glossy is a little bit higher contrast and darker, could I maybe tweak settings in CCC to get it semi-close?

Second, 349 is starting to seem like a lot of money for what is basically an A- gamble panel. Not even guaranteed it's mint. Now there are those 32" 1440p qnix, why hasn't there been much discussion on those in this thread? 430 seems like a good price when the 27" matte's are already at 350. Even if they only OC a tiny bit; say 85hz, i'd be happy with those. Perhaps I should sell my matte 27" and get three 32"?

Just looking for thoughts on these points, especially from others who were in a similar situations of going from an older single and adding two newer screens.

Thanks for your time.


----------



## RemagCP

So you CANNOT OC the True10 versions?

They're the only ones I can find sub $280. I remember back 4-5 months ago they were almost $250. Wonder if they will ever get that low again?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> So you CANNOT OC the True10 versions?
> 
> They're the only ones I can find sub $280. I remember back 4-5 months ago they were almost $250. Wonder if they will ever get that low again?


Yes, if they can find more ways to cut build quality corners, they should be able to get that low again.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The preset gamma curve closely adheres to the sRGB standard (not washed out), and, yes I am sure the monitor overclocked properly.


Why do you think the new Glossy monitor has zero color shift when OC'd to 96Hz vs 60hz?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emperorr*
> 
> .


350-400$ has always been the normal price for pixel perfect versions There are lots of gloss vs matte comparison available on youtube, including a high quality 1440p version which I'm not allowed to link to. The glossy versions have different colour presets, as do the newer panels used by these, so there is a very low chance that they will look similar. The 32" Qnix uses an A-MVA panel (ignore the AHVA adds) which can barely overclock, has a frame of input lag and slower pixel response times/more ghosting.


----------



## Kokin

Just wanted to chime in that the AMD CCC 14.11.2 Beta driver works with the current AMD patcher (v1.3) and CRU. Only playing CS:GO and League of Legends ATM, but it works perfectly on those two games.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> I'm still not getting an answer to my question. I bought a QNIX qx2710 Glossy monitor about 3 weeks ago. Does this mean that my monitor has the newer worse washed out panel?


Maybe

If you've been using it for 3 weeks and it's not bothered you until you read about then I would forget about it


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> I just want to know if I could be getting a better image with an older model.


No one can answer that question but you. You are the one that has the monitor in your possession, thus you are the only one who can take it apart and see what you have. Everyone else here can only guess as to what you may or may not have, lol...


----------



## Alexyy

Would be this a good choice if i want to use it for gaming and plan to overclock it [
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor/111484036894?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27828%26meid%3D78cbffc2c83d469483a695a430b3dfb4%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D11436%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121256076370&rt=nc


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexyy*
> 
> Would be this a good choice if i want to use it for gaming and plan to overclock it [
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor/111484036894?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27828%26meid%3D78cbffc2c83d469483a695a430b3dfb4%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D11436%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121256076370&rt=nc


What kinda gaming? FPS?

A lot of people game with these monitors. Especially at 96hz (average OC) and 1440p it is a great price compared to others on the market.
If you play a lot of FPS competitively then you may want to go with a solid 120 or 144hz monitor.


----------



## emperorr

I appreciate your reply MenacingTuba. One more querstion, is it possible to load the same ICC profile on all three monitors, so my old original X-Star and 2 newer Evo II so that they are aiming for the same color profile/curve? CCC will let me adjust gamma brightness and contrast for RGB, think this will get me fairly close?

Sorry for the stupid newbie questions, I'm just wary of having triple screens with different models. Looking in to matte vs glossy comparison vids now. Thanks again.


----------



## JMattes

Anyone know which screw the back of the QNIX takes?
I want to say like an M4, but I forgot mine at home and wanted to go to the hardware store after work...
Needed a spacer/washer to make the long screws that came with my mount work..

Any help before 4pm EST is appreciated


----------



## Alexyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> What kinda gaming? FPS?
> 
> A lot of people game with these monitors. Especially at 96hz (average OC) and 1440p it is a great price compared to others on the market.
> If you play a lot of FPS competitively then you may want to go with a solid 120 or 144hz monitor.


I do play some fps but not enough to spend extra on a 144hz monitor in my opinion.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexyy*
> 
> I do play some fps but not enough to spend extra on a 144hz monitor in my opinion.


If your looking for an upgrade to a larger screen, higher res (1440p) and dont mind taking 96hz then this is one great monitor.
The panel lottery hasn't been too bad from what I hear, but I bought two used ones from ebay that I knew were perfect pixels and couldnt be happier!

Paid $ 275 and $ 225. I haven't tried overclocking just yet as I haven't gamed on them yet, but I expect to get 96hz from each.

Now if someone could chime in with the screw size for the back mounting it would make my day!


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Perfect Pixels seem like bull***** to me.


Yea most people that dont order perfect pixel still often get no dead pixel.
It's a way for the vendors to get more $$ and the buyer to have piece of mind or somewhat when dealing with oversees vendors.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## bond32

Well, got my 2 qnix in... I clearly ordered the single dvi input model on amazon and I received the true 10 models... Not too happy right now. Really don't want to send these back or wait any longer, not sure what to do.

Seller was "Corner Discount"


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Well, got my 2 qnix in... I clearly ordered the single dvi input model on amazon and I received the true 10 models... Not too happy right now. Really don't want to send these back or wait any longer, not sure what to do.
> 
> Seller was "Corner Discount"


Amazon might be able to help you there if the seller doesn't pay for return shipping and refund. Plus if you paid with a credit card they might be able to get your money back if amazon and the seller don't help,


----------



## bond32

Yeah, the seller actually already got back to me. Said they are shipping the correct monitors in 1-2 business days. I just don't want to have to ship the true 10's back before they ship the right ones out... Don't think I will have to.

Few questions, I didn't have much time to work on them but running one x-star and these 2 true 10's...

Using the amd pixel patcher and cru, still was unable to get CCC to up the monitors to 96 hz, this is on the latest 14.11.2 beta drivers, running 4x290x's. I used the exact same procedure I used when I ran the one monitor for almost a year now that has been working fine. I was able to setup the eyefinity setup but it was at 60 hz. Finally before I left for work, I saw CCC had recognized the max refresh rate at 96 hz, so do I need to set up the eyefinity profile again I assume?

Also to those who use an active adapter, it requires a usb connection to the computer - is this simply for 5 volts? The adapter I have is this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XYBA72/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It actually works quite well and ran one monitor at 96 hz just fine, however it tends to "loose" that usb connection so reconnecting it works. But I was wondering if I could simply use an adapter or even hot wire the thing from a 5 volt lead on a molex... Windows doesn't see any different devices (usb) with it connected...


----------



## Quisp

Hello people -

After lurking around this thread for about a year, I finally pulled the trigger and purchased three of these monitors (X-Star DP2710LED with matte finish) from Dreamseller a couple months ago in early September.

I went with the non-pixel perfect version to save money. Two of my three monitors have zero dead pixels; one of them has a single stuck/green pixel that I have trouble seeing unless I really look for it on a black background. These displays are AWESOME compared to my old single DCLCD 1920 x 1200 24" TN panel.

Two of my monitors can overclock to 110hz without issue, one of them maxes out at 96hz. I just run all three at 96hz without problems. I should mention I'm using a pair of "ancient" EVGA GTX 460 SC 1GB cards to run these bad boys (please don't make fun&#8230;lol). Windows 7 64bit is my OS.

I mounted the three monitors on a free standing triple monitor stand from EasyMountLCD (http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Monitor-Standing-Supports-002-0020/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416433229&sr=1-2&keywords=triple+monitor+stand&pebp=1416433227391).

After a ton of adjusting in order to position the monitors straight and level, this triple stand works fine for me.

Before mounting the monitors to the triple stand, I removed the factory stands from the X-Stars by following the debezeling techniques mentioned on the first page of this thread and Lawson's Qnix/X-Star Overclocking thread (http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club).

Since the monitors were partially disassembled for factory stand removal, I went ahead and removed the metal framing around each of the panels to check for bends or warping that could add to backlight bleed. Two of the monitor's metal frames had mild bends; one of them had a significant bend. Utilizing a flat surface, I was able to straighten all thee metal frames by hand. The metal frames bend easily so I was careful not to use too much hand pressure.

After putting all three monitors back together, I cannot detect any backlight bleed from any of the monitors.

I have used Color Sustainer v1.05 and tried a number of ICC profiles. However, to my eyes, my monitors look best and matched with factory color/gamma settings (even when overclocked to 96hz).

All in all, I'm very happy with my monitors. No regrets here...


----------



## bond32

That's the same stand I just got... Got it installed today, although 2 out of the 3 of my monitors are going to be sent back so didn't bother mounting them...


----------



## Quisp

I think you'll like this triple stand once you have all your monitors...It's really sturdy.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emperorr*
> 
> I appreciate your reply MenacingTuba. One more querstion, is it possible to load the same ICC profile on all three monitors, so my old original X-Star and 2 newer Evo II so that they are aiming for the same color profile/curve?


Yes, but they won't match since the profiles are created for different monitors with slightly different colour presets which also likely use different panels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emperorr*
> 
> CCC will let me adjust gamma brightness and contrast for RGB, think this will get me fairly close?


Games reset gpu colour settings which also ruin the colour quality, so don't use the CCC settings.

Why are you so set on owning three monitors? Even 3 of the highest end gpu's struggle with 3x1440p and you will have to sit pretty far away to see all 3. You should test your monitor for LED PWM Dimming (Side Effects) with this test (read the instructions which includes an explanation) before buying more.


----------



## emperorr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Yes, but they won't match since the profiles are created for different monitors with slightly different colour presets which also likely use different panels.
> Games reset gpu colour settings which also ruin the colour quality, so don't use the CCC settings.


So is there no way to calibrate them to look similar while in 3d applications?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Why are you so set on owning three monitors? Even 3 of the highest end gpu's struggle with 3x1440p and you will have to sit pretty far away to see all 3.


I am perfectly fine with lowering graphics to achieve good performance on triple screens. I have a single AMD r9 290 but will likely upgrade to whatever flagship is due out next fall (pascal sounds great) while I will plan on keeping the triple monitors for quite some time (5+ years?) but even with my card there are many games I can run already, such as CS:GO, strategy games, and race sims. The side monitors are for peripheral vision, directly looking at them isn't necessary so I wont have to sit far from them. Human vision has around 200* FOV and closer to 270* if you rotate your eyes. Mostly want it for a productivity thing, however, so even just the 3 screens for desktop will be wonderful, I've had three mismatched screens before and I miss it.

As far as your PWM links, from what I gather this is relevant to quality of your overclock? Running this monitor at 100fps currently. I'm not sure how it pertains to adding 2 more screens, will uneven PWM be noticeable if I have 2 different panels?

As always, your input is much appreciated, thank you.


----------



## audioxbliss

Hey guys, I'm having an odd issue after trying to update drivers. I have two monitors, one is a X-Star DP2710, the other is some LG 1920x1080 monitor. Before I tried to update drivers, everything was working beautifully. After, I can't seem to plug both monitors in.

If I have the DP2710 plugged in by itself, in any port, it works fine.

If I have the LG monitor plugged in by itself, in any port, it works fine.

If I have both monitors plugged in in either configuration, the DP2710 starts a test mode cycling black, white, red, green, blue. The LG monitor will display just fine, but since my DP2710 is also plugged in, all my windows open on the DP2710 side and I can't see anything to be able to adjust.

Anyone have any recommendations before I just nuke the whole thing and reinstall Windows?

I'm running Windows 8.1 Pro, if that helps. I was trying to update to 14.11.2 beta drivers. I have sinced backed off to 14.4, but still the same issue.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioxbliss*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm having an odd issue after trying to update drivers. I have two monitors, one is a X-Star DP2710, the other is some LG 1920x1080 monitor. Before I tried to update drivers, everything was working beautifully. After, I can't seem to plug both monitors in.
> 
> If I have the DP2710 plugged in by itself, in any port, it works fine.
> 
> If I have the LG monitor plugged in by itself, in any port, it works fine.
> 
> If I have both monitors plugged in in either configuration, the DP2710 starts a test mode cycling black, white, red, green, blue. The LG monitor will display just fine, but since my DP2710 is also plugged in, all my windows open on the DP2710 side and I can't see anything to be able to adjust.
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations before I just nuke the whole thing and reinstall Windows?
> 
> I'm running Windows 8.1 Pro, if that helps. I was trying to update to 14.11.2 beta drivers. I have sinced backed off to 14.4, but still the same issue.


Zero issues for me, but I'm using Windows 7 SP1. I also use a secondary 1080p monitor in portrait mode.


----------



## bond32

In my initial usage of the 3 monitors, I notice I am def. sitting way too close. I have them mounted to the desk, I'll post pictures later. Thinking I need to construct some sort of keyboard & mouse pull out so I can sit further back...


----------



## attakforce

hi, i have Perfect Pixel QX2710 Evolution II Multi True10 2560x1440 HDMI LED Monitor Matte but when i try to use DVI-D dual link cable my image became like that:http://api.viglink.com/api/click?
http://i.imgur.com/hCIg4pu.jpg
all is out of focus... and someicon became destorced,someone can help me
?thanks


----------



## WhiskeyDelta

I received my Qnix QX2710 Evo ii today from ebay seller Accesorieswhole. I have two question regarding it, for you guys. I hope somebody can hel me. This is the new version of the Qnix, with panel LTM270DL07 instead of LTM270DL02 (Previous Qnix).

1. How can i 'know' this screen is truely glossy (as i ordered) and not glass?

2. Are there any color profiles available for this new qnix? It looks a bit yellow when i compare it to my samsung bx2350 (not that its great).


----------



## remnant

looking at getting my first 1440 monitor, everything seems to point to the korean panels.
I know this is the owners club so there's no point in asking if the risk of dead pixels is worth it or not. but have any of you experienced dead pixels? what did you do/how did you deal with it? now there seem to be a lot of options from Qnix, from what I was reading Pixel perfect isn't worth paying for and one shouldn't buy SE/second edition is that correct?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remnant*
> 
> looking at getting my first 1440 monitor, everything seems to point to the korean panels.
> I know this is the owners club so there's no point in asking if the risk of dead pixels is worth it or not. but have any of you experienced dead pixels? what did you do/how did you deal with it? now there seem to be a lot of options from Qnix, from what I was reading Pixel perfect isn't worth paying for and one shouldn't buy SE/second edition is that correct?


Went with a Pixel Perfect version for what it's worth, and it surely came to me, with no dead pixels









If it's a dead pixel free guaranteed sort of thing, the extra couple of bucks for a pixel perfect one is worth it IMO

EDIT: And yes, stay away from multi input versions. Only one you're looking for is the monitor with a single Dual DVI output and that's it. If it says multi-input or TRUE 10 or anything like that, steer clear


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emperorr*
> 
> So is there no way to calibrate them to look similar while in 3d applications?


Not without a colorimeter (x-rite colormunkie-170$ or i1 display pro; the Spyder meters are inaccurate) and Color Sustainer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emperorr*
> 
> As far as your PWM links, from what I gather this is relevant to quality of your overclock?


It is not. PWM causes seem people to suffer health issues like head aches and/or eyestrain and introduces PWM artifacts which reduces the clarity and smoothness of consistent motion (ie: the moving UFO from this ghosting test which moves at a consistent frame rate when Aero is enabled will look jittery/stuttery and blurrier on monitors which use very low PWM frequencies).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emperorr*
> 
> Will uneven PWM be noticeable if I have 2 different panels?


This is subjective, but monitors with PWM might make your viewing experience unpleasant since your eyes might feel tired, hurt, water, ect and you might experience head aches after prolonged use.


----------



## Antoon55

My Ultimate Perfect pixel QNIX2710 evo 2 arrived yesterday from ebay seller Excellentcastle. Ultimate pixel means it will not have a singel dead pixel. Returm costs are for the seller. Could OC to 118 Hz. No darkening while OC as far as I can see.
Does it make sense to OC when the game plays at 40 FPS?
I love the colors en sharpness right out of the box.
It does have some input lag but I can handle ACU with it.

The title of the ebay sale said it's glossy. In the description it says it's "not glossy but matte". It turned out to be glossy.

Anyways, I have 1 dead pixel. I notified the seller yesterday. Did not receive an answer yet.


----------



## bomerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antoon55*
> 
> My Ultimate Perfect pixel QNIX2710 evo 2 arrived yesterday from ebay seller Excellentcastle. Ultimate pixel means it will not have a singel dead pixel. Returm costs are for the seller. Could OC to 118 Hz. No darkening while OC as far as I can see.
> Does it make sense to OC when the game plays at 40 FPS?
> I love the colors en sharpness right out of the box.
> It does have some input lag but I can handle ACU with it.
> 
> The title of the ebay sale said it's glossy. In the description it says it's "not glossy but matte". It turned out to be glossy.
> 
> Anyways, I have 1 dead pixel. I notified the seller yesterday. Did not receive an answer yet.


Did you get the multi input or single dvi-dl model?

Multi inputs tend to drop frames when OC while the dvi-dl models handle proper OC.

Assuming you got the DVI-DL model then it might be worth it to OC if you watch a lot of 24fps movies. Setting the refresh rate to a multiple of 24 such as 96 or 120hz gives smooth video playback.

Do you have issues with screen reflections? if not glossy is better than mattee.

Suicks about the dead pixel tho; I bought the same display and it came pixel perfect.


----------



## bomerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Well, got my 2 qnix in... I clearly ordered the single dvi input model on amazon and I received the true 10 models... Not too happy right now. Really don't want to send these back or wait any longer, not sure what to do.
> 
> Seller was "Corner Discount"


sux


----------



## Antoon55

I got the single input model.
I don't watch movies on it I use it mainly for work, internet browsing and games and realy wonder if OC makes sense for games that run at 40 FPS (GPU = MSI GTX 970).
I have minor issues with the reflections during daytime (when working) but the sharpness makes up for it.
It's more readable then my old Samsung 1080p TN Matte panel








I am lucky to have a good return option. But maybe I settle for a discount.
When I use the return option I will make an exchange in stead of a refund because I like the monitor a lot.


----------



## attakforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attakforce*
> 
> hi, i have Perfect Pixel QX2710 Evolution II Multi True10 2560x1440 HDMI LED Monitor Matte but when i try to use DVI-D dual link cable my image became like that:http://api.viglink.com/api/click?
> http://i.imgur.com/hCIg4pu.jpg
> all is out of focus... and someicon became destorced,someone can help me
> ?thanks


someone can please answer me?


----------



## latprod

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attakforce*
> 
> someone can please answer me?


I have no idea, it looks like it's the wrong resolution or something. Just try to make a custom one and see if it helps


----------



## WhiskeyDelta

Hi guys. I have my new Qnix now two days. I discovered it has a plastic film over the glossy monitor. Anybody else has this? What is the effect of it? Is it the same as tempered glass? Thanks!


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attakforce*
> 
> hi, i have Perfect Pixel QX2710 Evolution II Multi True10 2560x1440 HDMI LED Monitor Matte but when i try to use DVI-D dual link cable my image became like that:http://api.viglink.com/api/click?
> http://i.imgur.com/hCIg4pu.jpg
> all is out of focus... and someicon became destorced,someone can help me
> ?thanks


Change the Windows DPI scaling to 100% (96 DPI).


----------



## attakforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Change the Windows DPI scaling to 100% (96 DPI).


thank you very much!!!! you solved my problem


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> PWM causes seem people to suffer health issues like head aches and/or eyestrain and introduces PWM artifacts which reduces the clarity and smoothness of consistent motion (ie: the moving UFO from this ghosting test which moves at a consistent frame rate when Aero is enabled will look jittery/stuttery and blurrier on monitors which use very low PWM frequencies).
> This is subjective, but monitors with PWM might make your viewing experience unpleasant since your eyes might feel tired, hurt, water, ect and you might experience head aches after prolonged use.


I've tried the pwm test, and it appears that my qnix is pwm. I see 3-4 vertical lines if I follow the moving line closely. IS this what you're supposed to b e looking for?

Now in games 96/110/120hz looks amazing and I don't notice anything like that.


----------



## WhiskeyDelta

Okay as you can see i already posted a message (3 up from this one) about my monitor having a "plastic film" over it, as the seller 'assecorieswhole' described it as.

I thought that was the only problem i have with my monitor. I'd like to share with you two pictures of my monitor once overclocked to 96 hz. I am using crossfire radeon 6870 with a single bridge (these card cant be connected with two bridges). That shouldn't be a problem since the pixelclock for 96 hz is something like 380 mhz and my cards can make 400.




So these pictures can show you that on the left side a part of the screen shows another color. I tried using 90 hz, 75 hz and 60 hz. In 90 and 75 hz its a lot less, but still visible to my eyes. On 60 hz i'm pretty sure its still there but it would be very hard to see and prove to the seller.

What do you guys think about this? Can i try to fix something? Is it replacement worthy?


----------



## boykisser

Would you guys recommend a Perfect Pixel XStar Glossy for $350 shipped or a Perfect Pixel QNIX Glossy for $330 shipped?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111482849722?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19f4e549ba

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/321135502506?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Are those not the same exact monitor? The choice is not with the monitor but with the seller and their service, no?


----------



## Darkmader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironhide138*
> 
> Has it only been like this since you got the 980? I just got a 970 and it looked wased out. https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/523992/tip-for-nvidia-users-using-hdmi-and-getting-accurate-color-format/ This first post fixed it for me.


Thanks for that. I just read about that on the 970 forums today too. Now I can set my HTPC TV to nonstandard instead of standard making it like when I came from AMD using full RGB.

Question for those who have DSR compatible Nvidia cards. How do you keep your OC with DSR? I haven't figured that out yet and I know it's possible.


----------



## blackdragonbird

Hy guys,

I got one of these monitors about 1 month ago, but only now I resolved to post here.

My question is about the brightness of it, I messed it when the monitor arrived trying to figure out how to get the OSD appear, them I searched for it in Google and found that these screens don't have OSD.

I want to know if it is possible to reset the brightness to it's default value. How many clicks are necessary down from the max or up form from the minimum to get the default value?

Another question is about the glossy panel, I was inattentive and get on of these instead of a matte one. I can't find matte screen protectors in my country for the size of this thing, and don't know if there any kind of matte varnish that can be sprayed over the screen and don't damage it.

Thanks in advance for any information.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackdragonbird*
> 
> Hy guys,
> 
> I got one of these monitors about 1 month ago, but only now I resolved to post here.
> 
> My question is about the brightness of it, I messed it when the monitor arrived trying to figure out how to get the OSD appear, them I searched for it in Google and found that these screens don't have OSD.
> 
> I want to know if it is possible to reset the brightness to it's default value. How many clicks are necessary down from the max or up form from the minimum to get the default value?
> 
> Another question is about the glossy panel, I was inattentive and get on of these instead of a matte one. I can't find matte screen protectors in my country for the size of this thing, and don't know if there any kind of matte varnish that can be sprayed over the screen and don't damage it.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any information.


The default brightness is max, at 30 clicks from lowest brightness. Keep clicking BRI+ until the LED changes behavior to let you know that you're reached a limit. Then work your way down to the brightness you prefer.

You're lucky to have gotten a glossy panel. Members have been keen on getting some for a while now and they've just become available again. The glossy will look clearer than the matte so unless you're in a situation where it's easy to scratch, stick with the glossy coating. Definitely don't go putting any sort of spray or matte coating over the panel since you're likely to either damage the surface or just make the display look bad and washed out. The matte coatings for these displays are semi-glossy so unless you match those (and those are placed straight onto the panel from the factory, something you won't be able to achieve), you'll get a grainy, washed out look.


----------



## blackdragonbird

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> The default brightness is max, at 30 clicks from lowest brightness. Keep clicking BRI+ until the LED changes behavior to let you know that you're reached a limit. Then work your way down to the brightness you prefer.
> 
> You're lucky to have gotten a glossy panel. Members have been keen on getting some for a while now and they've just become available again. The glossy will look clearer than the matte so unless you're in a situation where it's easy to scratch, stick with the glossy coating. Definitely don't go putting any sort of spray or matte coating over the panel since you're likely to either damage the surface or just make the display look bad and washed out. The matte coatings for these displays are semi-glossy so unless you match those (and those are placed straight onto the panel from the factory, something you won't be able to achieve), you'll get a grainy, washed out look.


Thanks for the info. I want to let the panel in it default brightness to make better use of all profiles available in the web. And I had a Samsung P2470HN before this one, I never had a IPS monitor before, still getting used to the colors and all these pixels.







Better let all default and start "tweaking" with time.

Unfortunaltely the reflex is bothering me a little, but I'm starting to get used to it. I think I can look for some matte protector in Ebay and import it.

TYVM.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackdragonbird*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I want to let the panel in it default brightness to make better use of all profiles available in the web. And I had a Samsung P2470HN before this one, I never had a IPS monitor before, still getting used to the colors and all these pixels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better let all default and start "tweaking" with time.
> 
> Unfortunaltely the reflex is bothering me a little, but I'm starting to get used to it. I think I can look for some matte protector in Ebay and import it.
> 
> TYVM.


Almost no one calibrates the display at the default brightness, which is max. At most I remember seeing profiles at 20 clicks of brightness, and maybe once I have seen one at max. It doesn't matter, the difference in color accuracy is minimal as brightness changes and it's within the deviation observed between different samples of the same panel so you might get better or worse results by using such profiles. If you don't have a colorimeter, just use the profile that looks most neutral to you and has good gamma (http://lagom.nl/lcd-test)


----------



## brian5060

Hello all,

I just bought myself an X-Star DP2710 from eBay (Seller - Dream Seller). Thankfully, I have minimal BLB and have gotten the monitor to 95Hz with no problem.

One potential issue I have with the monitor is some significant bulge between the monitor and its bezel right at the bottom center of the monitor (where the X-Star logo is). The air gap due to this bulge is upwards to 1/8in. Anyone else have this issue? Does it require attention? If so, how did you remedy it? My concern is that it will act as a catch for dust which may be hazardous to the panel internals.

Thanks for your replies!

PS - I have attached an image in efforts to capture the discussed air gap below.


----------



## blackdragonbird

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Almost no one calibrates the display at the default brightness, which is max. At most I remember seeing profiles at 20 clicks of brightness, and maybe once I have seen one at max. It doesn't matter, the difference in color accuracy is minimal as brightness changes and it's within the deviation observed between different samples of the same panel so you might get better or worse results by using such profiles. If you don't have a colorimeter, just use the profile that looks most neutral to you and has good gamma (http://lagom.nl/lcd-test)


Thank you. I have put the screen at 30 clicks up from the minimal bright and I'm going to take this point as the default from now on.

Going to "calibrate" it later with this site you linked. TYVM.

Now to get a good VESA mount for it.







:thumb:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian5060*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I just bought myself an X-Star DP2710 from eBay (Seller - Dream Seller). Thankfully, I have minimal BLB and have gotten the monitor to 95Hz with no problem.
> 
> One potential issue I have with the monitor is some significant bulge between the monitor and its bezel right at the bottom center of the monitor (where the X-Star logo is). The air gap due to this bulge is upwards to 1/8in. Anyone else have this issue? Does it require attention? If so, how did you remedy it? My concern is that it will act as a catch for dust which may be hazardous to the panel internals.
> 
> Thanks for your replies!
> 
> PS - I have attached an image in efforts to capture the discussed air gap below.


Mine has the gap too, and worse, the panel is loose inside of the plastic case, around 5mm offset. I'm thinking to dismantle the thing and put some chock inside it.


----------



## xibalba88

I asked this on another thread but Im posting this here hoping I can get some help. Recently bought a QNIX QX2710 SE (HDMI port included) and had it connected to my gtx 460 (Old card I know) through the Dual link cable that came with the monitor and it was working great for a few minutes until I got the dumb Idea of giving it a slight OC through Nvidia with me not remembering that I needed to patch the card. I went into Nvidia resolution/customize, I made a custom profile bumping the 60hz to 75 and clicked test, The screen flickered twice prompting a DVI power save mode twice then the screen came back on and had scan lines or "the green vertical lines" on the monitor. There are no lines on my old monitor and everything works fine but the new monitor issue persists. The lines appear when the Monitor is turned on and show on the OSD.

I tried to set the monitor back to 59hz through Nvidia.

Unplugged the power for a few minutes then connecting again.

Reset my PC.

Used a HDMI cable and connected my laptop to test the ports.

Uninstalled Nvidia Drivers and Install again.

Uninstall "Generic Monitor" from the Device manager.

The first pic shows how the monitor looks when it's turned on with nothing but power too it.

This lower pic shows how colors/videos look. (Good ole' youtube vids)


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brian5060*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I just bought myself an X-Star DP2710 from eBay (Seller - Dream Seller). Thankfully, I have minimal BLB and have gotten the monitor to 95Hz with no problem.
> 
> One potential issue I have with the monitor is some significant bulge between the monitor and its bezel right at the bottom center of the monitor (where the X-Star logo is). The air gap due to this bulge is upwards to 1/8in. Anyone else have this issue? Does it require attention? If so, how did you remedy it? My concern is that it will act as a catch for dust which may be hazardous to the panel internals.
> 
> Thanks for your replies!
> 
> PS - I have attached an image in efforts to capture the discussed air gap below.


I have the exact same issue with mine, it's practically unnoticeable though


----------



## MrMOAby

Hi guys, I'm new on here and just got a QNIX today! I have an FX-8350 and a Asus GTX 770 4GB. I have tried overclocking the monitor through Nvidia Control Panel, but when I go onto the UFO test, it only shows that my monitor is refreshing at 60 fps/hz. Do any of you know a fix to this or what I did wrong. I have tried it with the patch and without patch. And I have installed the driver through Device Manager.
Edit: Ok, so somehow I got it up to 96 on the UFO test... I don't know what I did to get it there, but now I can't get it off either haha. I also have ASUS GPU Tweak installed with profiles set up. And I am assuming this may be messing with stuff. Anybody have experience using GPU Tweak and overclocking the monitor?

Edit 2: So... Now I can get the changes to appear in UFO test, but it requires a reboot and does not work on the fly like I have seen in youtube videos. Still would like recommendations please!


----------



## raneyboo

I need help locating the QNIX monitor driver for NVIDIA! The links on the forums does not work and I keep getting an access permissions error or system error on the forums. Please help!!!???


----------



## Jboss

Anyone here have luck in getting higher HZ rates with the new AMD/Nvidia drivers?


----------



## kyleparkers

Hey everyone.
need help.
what's the difference b/w 'QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE' and 'QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll' (without SE)?
And there's, QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE and same one without 'SE' at the end. what would be differences?


----------



## Antoon55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raneyboo*
> 
> I need help locating the QNIX monitor driver for NVIDIA! The links on the forums does not work and I keep getting an access permissions error or system error on the forums. Please help!!!???


Make sure you loged in...


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyleparkers*
> 
> Hey everyone.
> need help.
> what's the difference b/w 'QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE' and 'QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll' (without SE)?
> And there's, QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE and same one without 'SE' at the end. what would be differences?


SE = Second Edition. No idea if there are major differences, but there has been some talk of PWM and washed out colors on the SE versions.
I'm sure you've read about the difference between the TRUE10 and the other one.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> SE = Second Edition. No idea if there are major differences, but there has been some talk of PWM and washed out colors on the SE versions.
> I'm sure you've read about the difference between the TRUE10 and the other one.


Colors def seem washed out compared to my xstar. I got 2 True10 SE's (seller derp) but mounted them and using them until the correct model comes in. Don't look near as good as my original xstar.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## JMattes

I've seen a few posts about pwm free. How do I tell if mine are or arent.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I've seen a few posts about pwm free. How do I tell if mine are or arent.


http://www.testufo.com/#test=blurtrail

You have to read the 2-3 step directions above.

I've done this with my qnix and it seems as mine is pwm, but not really sure. For me the vertical line seems to hop back and forth a bit and not stay in one place as it slides across. My monitor is 120hz stable however though. Just personally wondering what the downsides would be.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> ...but there has been some talk of PWM and washed out colors on the SE versions.


These monitors have always been subject to PWM lottery, but the people asked to test their new glossy versions have all reported the use of LED PWM Dimming, so it is best to assume that these monitors use LED PWM Dimming.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Just personally wondering what the downsides would be.


http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects

The test is clearly explained, make sure Windows Aero is enabled to ensure the test runs smoothly.

-Detect PWM dimming in LED-backlit LCD displays. Lowering monitor brightness may reveal PWM effect of multiple separate vertical lines *(rather than one vertical line)*.

Multiple moving vertical lines=PWM, 1 blurred moving line=PWM Free. The moving line will look like the below image if a monitor uses PWM


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> These monitors have always been subject to PWM lottery, but the people asked to test their new glossy versions have all reported the use of LED PWM Dimming, so it is best to assume that these monitors use LED PWM Dimming.
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects
> 
> The test is clearly explained, make sure Windows Aero is enabled to ensure the test runs smoothly.
> 
> -Detect PWM dimming in LED-backlit LCD displays. Lowering monitor brightness may reveal PWM effect of multiple separate vertical lines *(rather than one vertical line)*.
> 
> Multiple moving vertical lines=PWM, 1 blurred moving line=PWM Free. The moving line will look like the below image if a monitor uses PWM


What are the downsides to PWM?

This is a picture taken on my phone with auto settings. It looks like I have pwm but still 120hz oc stable. Any coalition between the 2?

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sinnedone/media/watercooled zalman v1/IMAG3656_zpsezvubyoh.jpg.html

This picture was at 120hz too but UFO test doesn't like verifying it for some reason.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> What are the downsides to PWM?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/pulse_width_modulation.htm#side_effects


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Any coalition between the 2?


No.


----------



## eXultanCe

Would this model be an overclockable one?

And would anyone advise against buying it through Amazon?


----------



## TheoLas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXultanCe*
> 
> Would this model be an overclockable one?
> 
> And would anyone advise against buying it through Amazon?


Looks good, Go for it!


----------



## rjeftw

Considering picking up a couple QNIX since I can't really find any matte X-Stars looking at these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e876ecd0b

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25

Any preference on these?


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## rjeftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> That is literally ALL the last two pages have been answering..


Thanks for the help.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> No.


Thank you

Even at full brightness it seems PWM is there, but doe not bother me at all so I guess I'm good.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Even at full brightness it seems PWM is there, but doe not bother me at all so I guess I'm good.


Shouldn't have looked for it. Once you know it's there it will eventually bug you.


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> I still have ZERO idea what the problem with PWM even is? How would this practically affect me?


From a few posts up...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21910#post_23196832


----------



## Levelog

So I just picked up one of the Qnix Evolution II's off neweggflash for 309. I see it says to ONLY use a DVI-D port, does this mean if I get an EVGA 980, which doesn't have one, I'll have any ill effect?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levelog*
> 
> So I just picked up one of the Qnix Evolution II's off neweggflash for 309. I see it says to ONLY use a DVI-D port, does this mean if I get an EVGA 980, which doesn't have one, I'll have any ill effect?


Do 980's without DVI-D input exist?


----------



## Levelog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Do 980's without DVI-D input exist?


The EVGA ACX 2.0 980 doesn't have a DVI-D port, only a DVI-I, which the product page said not to use. Other than that it just has 3x DP and 1x HDMI.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levelog*
> 
> The EVGA ACX 2.0 980 doesn't have a DVI-D port, only a DVI-I, which the product page said not to use. Other than that it just has 3x DP and 1x HDMI.


You can only get more than 60Hz on a monitor with Display Port or DVI-D. Since Display Port is not an option on the Qnix, getting a card with a DVI-D input would be your only choice.


----------



## Levelog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> You can only get more than 60Hz on a monitor with Display Port or DVI-D. Since Display Port is not an option on the Qnix, getting a card with a DVI-D input would be your only choice.


Well looks like I'll have to reevaluate my next GPU. No 980 Classy for me.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levelog*
> 
> Well looks like I'll have to reevaluate my next GPU. No 980 Classy for me.


Don't know how the 980 versions compare, but there are much better 970 versions compared to the EVGA cards


----------



## Levelog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Don't know how the 980 versions compare, but there are much better 970 versions compared to the EVGA cards


Not for the warranty/components of the classy. I don't care about the cooler because I'm going to waterblock it.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levelog*
> 
> Not for the warranty/components of the classy. I don't care about the cooler because I'm going to waterblock it.


Ah, I see. From what I've read, they haven't been great clockers this time around either, but to each his own







I might be wrong, but I recall other EVGA options having DVI-D?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levelog*
> 
> The EVGA ACX 2.0 980 doesn't have a DVI-D port, only a DVI-I, which the product page said not to use. Other than that it just has 3x DP and 1x HDMI.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> You can only get more than 60Hz on a monitor with Display Port or DVI-D. Since Display Port is not an option on the Qnix, getting a card with a DVI-D input would be your only choice.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levelog*
> 
> Well looks like I'll have to reevaluate my next GPU. No 980 Classy for me.


DVI-I outputs work as long as they are dual-link. DVI-I is merely DVI-D with the analog pins to allow a VGA connection.

Single link DVI-D doesn't work.
Dual link DVI-D works.
Single link DVI-I doesn't work.
Dual link DVI-I works.


----------



## evannnn67

Hi all, just got my QX2710 in from the NewEgg Flash deal. Obviously in love with it, and it came way earlier than I expected, which is sweet, BUT...my monitor mount isn't going to arrive until Monday.

I knew going in the stock stand was going to be bad, but it doesn't even sit straight, it tilts _really_ bad to either side, and just pressing the power button made it fall out completely (towards me thank god). Am I missing something here? It just drops right in, correct? The inside of the stand looks really bad, like melted plastic or something, I can't even describe it.

Anyway, has anyone tried taping it for safety purposes? I don't want to make it worse, but I know myself and I will do something stupid and knock it over. Obviously I should just wait for the stand to arrive to use the monitor but...we all know that ain't happening









Thanks for all the great advice in this thread, really helped me pull the trigger and I'm so glad I did, I didn't get a single dead pixel from what I can tell.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Did you use the screw that came with the stand? it connects it to the base plate.


----------



## evannnn67

http://i.imgur.com/KQ8y0us.gif

Thanks.


----------



## freezer2k

hey guys,

Just want to be sure:

I'm using this test here:
http://www.testufo.com/#test=blurtrail

And when I take photos with my Nexus5 at default settings, I see at least 3 duplicated lines (full brightness), and up to 6 (lowest).

Does that mean my QNIX is using PWM?

I got the DL-DVI only version overclocked to 90hz.

My eyes are quite sensitive and I have the feeling that this monitor is straining them much more than my old one. Could PWM be the root-cause of this?


----------



## boykisser

Just got my perfect pixel qx2710 and it is indeed perfect pixel and to my surprise it has 0 backlight bleed which is something I'm sure is very rare. There are no stuck or dead pixels. Oc'd to 96hz and it's fine.

My blurtrail test looks exactly like this picture which somebody already posted:


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boykisser*
> 
> Just got my perfect pixel qx2710 and it is indeed perfect pixel and to my surprise it has 0 backlight bleed which is something I'm sure is very rare. There are no stuck or dead pixels. Oc'd to 96hz and it's fine.
> 
> My blurtrail test looks exactly like this picture which somebody already posted:


I wonder if this is an 100% proof that it's PWM?

In the FrameSkip test, depending on the exposure time, many boxes are filled up, even though there is just one box filled at any moment....

Could this not be the same effect with the lines moving?


----------



## MenacingTuba

The Blur Busters test is a *visual-only test*. Cameras shutter speed is not synced with the monitors refresh rate, so all monitors will show multiple lines in pictures of the moving line. The photo I provided was taken using the testing methodology provided in TFT Centrals LED PWM Dimming article.

Low frequency PWM like the Qnix's use can be captured in the form of moving horizontal lines like 



. BenQ made an informative video on this subject:


----------



## boykisser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Blur Busters test is a *visual-only test*. Cameras shutter speed is not synced with the monitors refresh rate, so all monitors will show multiple lines in pictures of the moving line. The photo I provided was taken using the testing methodology provided in TFT Centrals LED PWM Dimming article.
> 
> Low frequency PWM like the Qnix's use can be captured in the form of moving horizontal lines like
> 
> 
> 
> . BenQ made an informative video on this subject:


Thanks for the very informative post.
Now that I watched that video I recall seeing those lines on some older TVs and monitors. I just tried it on my QNIX and saw absolutely no lines of any kind. Strange, maybe I need specific camera settings?
I don't notice any flickering at all during regular viewing (gaming, reading, movie watching). I only saw the lines on the blur test.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Blur Busters test is a *visual-only test*. Cameras shutter speed is not synced with the monitors refresh rate, so all monitors will show multiple lines in pictures of the moving line. The photo I provided was taken using the testing methodology provided in TFT Centrals LED PWM Dimming article.
> 
> Low frequency PWM like the Qnix's use can be captured in the form of moving horizontal lines like
> 
> 
> 
> . BenQ made an informative video on this subject:


Thanks a lot for the info.

I made a video of my QNIX, and at about mid-brightness levels it's quite visible:






I changed it to max brightness and then back to a lower level.


----------



## Kegizm

Guys I'm hovering over the buy button for a Qnix.

I can't decide for Glossy or Matte- do you guys have any comparison pictures for both?

How glossy is the coating on the Qnix?

Baring in mind Matte is around £35 more.

Thanks


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kegizm*
> 
> Guys I'm hovering over the buy button for a Qnix.
> 
> I can't decide for Glossy or Matte- do you guys have any comparison pictures for both?
> 
> How glossy is the coating on the Qnix?
> 
> Baring in mind Matte is around £35 more.
> 
> Thanks


glossy like smartphone. actually i'm not sure there exists distinct levels of glossiness.

it will appear less glossy when the dust starts so settle on it.

i think i regret glossy (its annoying) but i probably would not pay £35 more for matte. especially if £35 > $35


----------



## VanillaCena

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kegizm*
> 
> Guys I'm hovering over the buy button for a Qnix.
> 
> I can't decide for Glossy or Matte- do you guys have any comparison pictures for both?
> 
> How glossy is the coating on the Qnix?
> 
> Baring in mind Matte is around £35 more.
> 
> Thanks


I have blackout curtains in my room so I stuck with the glossy.

If your room has a lot of windows/lighting, you may want to get the matte. The matte coating on these monitors is well done, but does take away some of the color vibrancy compared to glossy.

My previous monitor was matte, but I now prefer glossy thanks to the Qnix, if my personal opinion counts for anything.


----------



## boykisser

It's as glossy as it gets I think. And yeah, like others mentioned, it depends on the light levels of your room. If bright, matte. If dark, glossy.
I have a white led ducky shine 3 keyboard. I keep the keyboard LED brightness on lowest and of course the monitor reflects the lights.


----------



## Kegizm

Thanks for the replies guys-

I will probably have to pay the extra for the Matte. I usually have a lamp on in my room during the night (very dimmed hardly noticeable) so I put my smartphone where my current monitor is and everything was still reflecting off it.

Does anywhere sell Matte and Glossy at the same price?

I'm looking at accesorieswhole at the moment.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor/111484036894?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27828%26meid%3D78cbffc2c83d469483a695a430b3dfb4%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D11436%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121256076370&rt=nc

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-PC-Monitor-/121114422949?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c32fb6ea5


----------



## boykisser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kegizm*
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys-
> 
> I will probably have to pay the extra for the Matte. I usually have a lamp on in my room during the night (very dimmed hardly noticeable) so I put my smartphone where my current monitor is and everything was still reflecting off it.
> 
> Does anywhere sell Matte and Glossy at the same price?
> 
> I'm looking at accesorieswhole at the moment.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor/111484036894?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27828%26meid%3D78cbffc2c83d469483a695a430b3dfb4%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D11436%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121256076370&rt=nc
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-PC-Monitor-/121114422949?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c32fb6ea5


I bought from accessorieswhole. From Korea to east coast USA in 3 days, that's crazy fast. I ordered the pixel perfect version and it is indeed pixel perfect, not a single stuck or dead pixel and no backlight bleed. I don't know what the non-pixel perfect monitors are like but if I were you I'd just go and pay the extra for the pixel perfect because I think it's worth it. The monitor is phenomenal.

As we've already established, the stand is utter **** and I had to widen the plastic screw opening with a drill so I could actually screw in the base. I'm probably going to buy a vesa mount.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kegizm*
> 
> Guys I'm hovering over the buy button for a Qnix.
> 
> I can't decide for Glossy or Matte- do you guys have any comparison pictures for both?
> 
> How glossy is the coating on the Qnix?
> 
> Baring in mind Matte is around £35 more.
> 
> Thanks


If you have to ask then you are probably better off with a Matte finish! ... Samsung's PLS AG coating is actually called "Semi-Gloss" for good reason, it is not nearly as obnoxious as the AG coatings of a few years ago ... Ie. the expensive Dell Ultrasharp's in the past. Nice article *HERE* ... TfT article *HERE* ... discussing AG (Matte) coatings ...









However for true aficionados of grapics clarity and color "pop", you'll find most prefer true "Glossy" (not tempered glass) panels vs Matte panels ...








We like to adopt our rooms lighting characteristics to the superior glossy panel ... NOT buy a panel, more often than not a Matte finish, to "fit" the room's lighting characteristics ... for me it is a no-brainer get the glossy ... Oddly enough, 5 months ago you could not even consider the true OC glossy versions of the QNIX and Cat2B for less than $700+









Another good test for your room's lighting conditions and how they react with a glossy panel is your typical 15.6" / 17" laptop ... check your most favorite programs/games with that. The toughest challenge will be with the dark (blacks) areas ... BUT You might be surprised how much the reflections are reduced with bright/vibrant colors on the screen.
It really isn't a fair comparison when the monitor is turned off, like some of the sample pics below









Below are some pics to give you the general idea (TY Menacingtuba *LINK* ) ... these are from when we had problems of Tempered Glass (worst of all worlds) being sold as Glossy panels. Note: This "mislabeling" does not seem to be the case anymore because of the buyers who visited this thread, became informed and learned how to "quiz" the Korean sellers









Left glass vs. matte (semi-gossy)

glass vs. glossy

glass vs. glossy


*THIS LINK* is a real world pic of a Catleap glossy from ebay, almost identical to a QNIX glossy, showing the keyboard reflection ...
BUT NOTE the panel is OFF ...

Hope that helps








And if anyone has a side by side pic of glossy vs matte with the same type panel running programs please post ... I can't find mine


----------



## chiller1064

Joining the club! My order for a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor has been made. I went with the glossy finish since I am used to and prefer glass displays.

Was going to spend the extra $$$$ for "Pixel Perfect" until I found this forum- so saved me $50! Ended up $299.00 with the typical free shipping off eBay.

First time I have ever ordered anything like this- so hoping the experience will be a good one.

Looking forward to seeing how things look with my 970 GTX card- anyone have any experience with this monitor and the 970 GTX?

Question: Would it be worth the additional expense to get a SquareTrade warranty?


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiller1064*
> 
> Joining the club! My order for a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD Samsung PLS Monitor has been made. I went with the glossy finish since I am used to and prefer glass displays.
> 
> Was going to spend the extra $$$$ for "Pixel Perfect" until I found this forum- so saved me $50! Ended up $299.00 with the typical free shipping off eBay.
> 
> First time I have ever ordered anything like this- so hoping the experience will be a good one.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing how things look with my 970 GTX card- anyone have any experience with this monitor and the 970 GTX?
> 
> Question: Would it be worth the additional expense to get a SquareTrade warranty?


exactly the same here! ordered at the weekend and it's been dispatched already. I'm in the UK.
Also have the same graphics card as you.

I'm glad to see my independent analysis of the minefield that is korean monitors was accurate as I appear to have purchased the best option with the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution Ⅱ 2 27" 2560x1440 WQHD matte version. this is new territory for me too, hoping i'm not disappointed









I'm having some difficulty with the tracking side of things... after navigating the korean post site, none of the options find my parcel. Has anyone had any luck with the tracking? Also, is there anyone in the UK who can explain what will happen with customs please?


----------



## OkanG

Was in the same boat as you guys. Never ordered from Korea or had a monitor even close to this quality. And I must say, it's absolutely worth the money. It is so much value, I feel bad for people buying anything else









And this monitor definitely gives a run for my 970s money, but I still run pretty much everything on high/very high


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Was in the same boat as you guys. Never ordered from Korea or had a monitor even close to this quality. And I must say, it's absolutely worth the money. It is so much value, I feel bad for people buying anything else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this monitor definitely gives a run for my 970s money, but I still run pretty much everything on high/very high


thanks OkanG, that's good to know (on all counts)


----------



## chiller1064

Anyone have any thoughts or first hand experience regarding buying a SquareTrade warranty for a QNIX QX2710 bought off eBay? I did not get a "pixel perfect" option but the auction does say "new in box".


----------



## Ralff

I've been considering joining the club, since there still is nothing comparable for this price, but before going ahead and buying one, I wanted to make sure of a few things.

The FAQ says that they are not necessarily optimal for gaming, because of the response time. The only competitive things I sometimes play are like Dota or BF4. How bad is it really? I'm currently using two old TN Panels with a resolution 1680x1050 and a response time of 2ms.
Also, is there some relation between OCing and response time?


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ralff*
> 
> I've been considering joining the club, since there still is nothing comparable for this price, but before going ahead and buying one, I wanted to make sure of a few things.
> 
> The FAQ says that they are not necessarily optimal for gaming, because of the response time. The only competitive things I sometimes play is like Dota or BF4. How bad is it really? I'm currently using two old TN Panels with a resolution 1680x1050 and a response time of 2ms.
> Also, is there some relation between OCing and response time?


I think response time is 6ms so if you notice a difference from 2ms you are either lying or you are superman

I use mine for gaming and it is awesome


----------



## Seel

Keep in mind those 6ms are grey to grey.
You do notice it, because other color changes can take much longer.

I do find it a bit blurry, as is standard for IPS type displays. If you overclock it it helps a bit, but won't get rid of it.
You will need a TN panel with lightboost or something if you don't want any blurring.

Personally I'll take the vibrant image of an IPS display over a TN screen any day.


----------



## Charlie B

Recently got an X-star dp2710 glossy perfect pixel and when i power it on the led will turn blue for a moment then start flashing red. If I hold the power button I can see a glimpse of the desktop before the monitor shuts off. Windows detects the monitor as dual dvi and acts as if the monitors working normally so I'm afraid I might have got a faulty monitor. Any help would be appreciated.
EDIT- nevermind it started working


----------



## rrims

Before I pull the trigger, I just want the approval from the club. Is this one the ideal one to get if I want to OC in the future? Unlike the Multi SE 10 one that has loads of problems (frame skipping)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3

Thanks


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> Before I pull the trigger, I just want the approval from the club. Is this one the ideal one to get if I want to OC in the future? Unlike the Multi SE 10 one that has loads of problems (frame skipping)
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> Thanks


That is the correct one, yes.


----------



## chiller1064

I just bought that one as well from "green sum" yesterday. Waiting to hear when it ships and excited to for it to show up.

Going to plunk down for a SquareTrade warranty as well just to be safer than sorry.


----------



## octopunch

I'm having trouble... seems almost all on ebay are multi ones.

Is the right one for the matte version?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25

Its $70+ more expensive than the cheaper multi ones, but worth it if it has a decent chance of being 120hz.


----------



## Kegizm

Yes mate that's the right one.


----------



## rrims

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> That is the correct one, yes.


Thanks, just placed the order! Excited and nervous








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiller1064*
> 
> I just bought that one as well from "green sum" yesterday. Waiting to hear when it ships and excited to for it to show up.


Hopefully they ship them out soon. Seeing the expected delivery date as early as Thursday makes me hope it gets here before the weekend.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> If you have to ask then you are probably better off with a Matte finish! ...


I have the tempered glass one. I'd not recommend it









Even in the evening I have a TV in the same room and it gets a lot of reflection from that









the monitor, yes. very nice. I don't think I have any bad pixels


----------



## Ralff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> I use mine for gaming and it is awesome


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seel*
> 
> Keep in mind those 6ms are grey to grey.
> You do notice it, because other color changes can take much longer.
> 
> I do find it a bit blurry, as is standard for IPS type displays. If you overclock it it helps a bit, but won't get rid of it.
> You will need a TN panel with lightboost or something if you don't want any blurring.
> 
> Personally I'll take the vibrant image of an IPS display over a TN screen any day.


Thanks for your comments! Now I just need to get my hands on one.


----------



## Cahill

Anyone know if there will be a Korean 34" 21:9 1440p display? I don't know if I should just get the Crossover 290m or go with Qnix 2710. I want ultrawide badly but not sure if 1440p is better.

Also, will this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3) Qnix 2710 have PWM? I have pretty sensitive vision and headaches are a concern when it comes to a display. I've seen posts talking about PWM but not sure if this model is included. Thanks guys.


----------



## Arzack

Is there a model guaranteed to be flicker-free? (27, semi glossy, I don't care if overclocks or not)


----------



## samsonite

Hello

Finally bought the x star from dream-seller on Nov 25, 2014 and got the tracking number the very next day. However, the tracking info says 'order processed, ready for UPS' for 5 days now, is this normal? How long after getting the tracking number does it take to ship the product?

Thanks


----------



## Cahill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cahill*
> 
> Anyone know if there will be a Korean 34" 21:9 1440p display? I don't know if I should just get the Crossover 290m or go with Qnix 2710. I want ultrawide badly but not sure if 1440p is better.
> 
> Also, will this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3) Qnix 2710 have PWM? I have pretty sensitive vision and headaches are a concern when it comes to a display. I've seen posts talking about PWM but not sure if this model is included. Thanks guys.


Anyone? Looking to buy asap


----------



## aragonry

This is the x-star matte?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221563893459?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cahill*
> 
> Anyone know if there will be a Korean 34" 21:9 1440p display? I don't know if I should just get the Crossover 290m or go with Qnix 2710. I want ultrawide badly but not sure if 1440p is better.
> 
> Also, will this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3) Qnix 2710 have PWM? I have pretty sensitive vision and headaches are a concern when it comes to a display. I've seen posts talking about PWM but not sure if this model is included. Thanks guys.


I bought mine from accessorieswhole:

"QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS WQHD PC Moni"

DL-DVI only variant. And it's flickering like i posted in this youtube video a few posts back:





I'm having dry eyes and it seems to strain my eyes more in general. Not 100% sure if this is because of the QNIX or/and because it's winter and dry air inside.

Will switch back to my old FHD 23" monitor for a bit to see if that feels better.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I have the tempered glass one. I'd not recommend it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even in the evening I have a TV in the same room and it gets a lot of reflection from that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the monitor, yes. very nice. I don't think I have any bad pixels


Remove the tempered glass, you get no benefit from having one, I removed mine and found a real glossy panel underneath.


----------



## Vicente14

Does anywhere sell the original QNIX as opposed to the Evolution II? I bought 1 over a year ago and was looking to purchase another.

The complaints in here about the latest model has put me off purchasing it.


----------



## Cahill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> I bought mine from accessorieswhole:
> 
> "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS WQHD PC Moni"
> 
> DL-DVI only variant. And it's flickering like i posted in this youtube video a few posts back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having dry eyes and it seems to strain my eyes more in general. Not 100% sure if this is because of the QNIX or/and because it's winter and dry air inside.
> 
> Will switch back to my old FHD 23" monitor for a bit to see if that feels better.


.

Is the SE, second edition same as evolution 2?


----------



## freezer2k

@Cahill

Not sure.
From this thread, it seems like there have been quite some changes, like different power supplies or different on board electronics which make the monitor overclock less -- without the model nr. etc changing.

I just went back to my old Samsung SM2333T cPVA screen, which actually also seems to have some sort of PWM. But this one is using CCFL backlight, not LED, which is supposed to make PWM less aggressive (because of the afterglow of CCFL).

Will see how it goes


----------



## Cahill

Can anyone answer this?

Does this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d058e2e3 have the chance of using PWM? I'd like to avoid it and am not sure if this is the newer model that has PWM.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freezer2k*
> 
> DL-DVI only variant. And it's flickering like i posted in this youtube video a few posts back:
> 
> I'm having dry eyes and it seems to strain my eyes more in general. Not 100% sure if this is because of the QNIX or/and because it's winter and dry air inside.


LED PWM Dimming (Side Effects) lines can be seen during the start of the video. Your monitor uses PWM which is like the source of your issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cahill*
> 
> I'd like to avoid it and am not sure if this is the newer model that has PWM.


These have always used PWM (PWM lottery applied for the first year and a bit), but it seems that all of the newer models do. If you want an overclock-able, PWM free monitor buy a MOTV M2700 (same as the Yamakasi, only available from Green-Sums's official site) Yamakasi Catleap 2B Extreme or Overlord and forget about these. Crossover monitors (can't overclock) are also PWM free along with the Zalman ZM27Q1 (can't overclock).


----------



## boykisser

Do IPS and PLS monitors "wear out" like LCD monitors? I had a 1920x1080 LCD monitor for several years and I noticed that the colors got very, very washed out and dull.


----------



## DiceAir

Has anyone tried this monitor on bf4. When I enable vsync I get FPS between 96-100 fps and that's weird. I will get jittiry motion. My monitor is set to 96hz and this is on r9 280x crossfire. I'm sure nothing is bottlenecking as I even tried on low graphics same issue. I also tried running on 60hz and then I get this weird drop in cpu usage every 2-5 seconds using vsync. I'm using both crossfire bridges and this actually makes me want to ditch this monitor and get a 1080p 144hz monitor. I don't get this issue running a normal 1080p 60hz panel. On my 1080p 60hz I get exactly 60fps all the time crossfire or not so it's something to do how the game sees the refresh rate or so.

I'm also feeling that 60hz 1080p panel feels smoother than a qnix @ 60hz. I don't know what I can do. On single gpu I have the same issue and would like to have this resolved. To be honest I now advice people to rather get 1080p 144hz as it's easier to drive due to drivers, games and hardware being more optimized for 1080p gaming. So what could be the issue. Also I know how vsync works. It will cap the fps to refresh rate but then why do I still get 96-100fps it should stay at 96hz and lower not higher. I think my monitor might be busted.

Even on desktop it doesn't feel as smooth as my old Asus 1080p when both at 60hz. it feels like I get some sort of microstutter on desktop but not exactly that. I tested with blurbusters and that other frameskipping test and no frame skipping and so on.

I was thinking maybe my issue is due to overclocking but after I did a reset to default settings with no ati patcher installed and no custom resolution added and then reinstalling the drivers by removing it using DDU and reinstalling even taking out one card giving me the same issue. I have enough system ram (16GB) to run most games so please advice what the issue could be.

oh one more thing I tested with frame pacing off in the control panel and with mantle and without mantle so yeah very strange issue.


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> If you want an overclock-able, PWM free monitor buy a MOTV M2700 (same as the Yamakasi, only available from Green-Sums's official site) Yamakasi Catleap 2B Extreme or Overlord and forget about these. Crossover monitors (can't overclock) are also PWM free along with the Zalman ZM27Q1 (can't overclock).


great! i've just ordered the qnix and it's currently on a plane winging it's way to me









i'm a bit annoyed as i spent an age reading this thread and other sites and only now do i discover that this model has PWM issues. I specifically chose the dual dvi version as everything i read indicated the qnix was the one as long as you avoided the multi input version. If i'm running at default 60hz, what's the downside? I guess i'll find out when it arrives


----------



## joshkope

DELETED


----------



## zombiefly

That's good to know thanks Josh


----------



## aragonry

I ask the seller what panel use this monitor; http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25
and this was the answer

New message from: accessorieswhole
Hi

QX2710 PLS matte monitor use LTM270DL02 panel.

I ask dream-seller about,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221563893459?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
and he confirm that the x-star dont use LTM270DL02 panel.


----------



## freezer2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> I ordered one of these like 2 or 3 months ago and although it does have PWM (I only know this because I ran that test on it), I haven't noticed anything wrong with it. Not sure what the big deal is here.


It's not a big deal, as long as you don't have a problem with it.

A certain percentage of people experience eye-strain when using PWM monitors.


----------



## rrims

Just got an update from my order on Monday night. It just now got picked up for delivery in Seoul. Looks like it won't be here by the weekend


----------



## Shadowarez

I just got the true 10 qnix Evelolution 2 it ocs to 110hz but it does dip to 75-96 during some games. It has 1 stuck or dead pixel only on black screens. I fixed the dvi input powrsave issue but there is noticable glow from bottom right side of monitor. Ill dig through thread to get timings as i just have it oced from nvcp.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I just got the true 10 qnix Evelolution 2 it ocs to 110hz but it does dip to 75-96 during some games. It has 1 stuck or dead pixel only on black screens. I fixed the dvi input powrsave issue but there is noticable glow from bottom right side of monitor. Ill dig through thread to get timings as i just have it oced from nvcp.


The monitor overclock should remain at a constant 110hz, do you mean your fps drops?


----------



## samsonite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> Just got an update from my order on Monday night. It just now got picked up for delivery in Seoul. Looks like it won't be here by the weekend


Nice

I should have gotten my monitor from green-sum too. I ordered mine from dream-seller on the Nov 25 and they still have not shipped mine







.
Have the tracking ndumber but it says order processed, ready for UPS for a week now.


----------



## Shadowarez

Yes sorry the fps drops in games like WoW Crysis 3 or Dead Pool. When i uit the osd its a constant 110hz the fps ingame fluxuates a lil. But i contacted seller if it gets any worse i can send it in.


----------



## coldcaptain

What about the QNIX Full HD Monitor QX2310?

Does anyone has one? Any powersave issues?

Lazada selling at less than $400 with masterpass payment discount. takes 5-14 business days though

http://www.lazada.sg/export-qnix-full-hd-monitor-qx2310-190791.html


----------



## Shadowarez

I paid $380 for my 27" qnix from ebay. Still half decent even with a dead pixel.


----------



## timaishu

Can anyone give an update on the HP stand mentioned in the OP? The one for the 22 inch HP monitor that can rotate and go up and down. Is still seen as a valid option? I found a seller on ebay who has one and he expressed concerns over the fact that it was designed for a 22 inch screen. Is it stable? Is it strong enough to support it and not have it sink all the way down? The reason I am considering it is for the vertical adjustment, as is, its too low for me.


----------



## DiceAir

Has anyone tried this monitor on bf4. When I enable vsync I get FPS between 96-100 fps and that's weird. I will get jittiry motion. My monitor is set to 96hz and this is on r9 280x crossfire. I'm sure nothing is bottlenecking as I even tried on low graphics same issue. I also tried running on 60hz and then I get this weird drop in cpu usage every 2-5 seconds using vsync. I'm using both crossfire bridges and this actually makes me want to ditch this monitor and get a 1080p 144hz monitor. I don't get this issue running a normal 1080p 60hz panel. On my 1080p 60hz I get exactly 60fps all the time crossfire or not so it's something to do how the game sees the refresh rate or so.

I'm also feeling that 60hz 1080p panel feels smoother than a qnix @ 60hz. I don't know what I can do. On single gpu I have the same issue and would like to have this resolved. To be honest I now advice people to rather get 1080p 144hz as it's easier to drive due to drivers, games and hardware being more optimized for 1080p gaming. So what could be the issue. Also I know how vsync works. It will cap the fps to refresh rate but then why do I still get 96-100fps it should stay at 96hz and lower not higher. I think my monitor might be busted.

Even on desktop it doesn't feel as smooth as my old Asus 1080p when both at 60hz. it feels like I get some sort of microstutter on desktop but not exactly that. I tested with blurbusters and that other frameskipping test and no frame skipping and so on.

I was thinking maybe my issue is due to overclocking but after I did a reset to default settings with no ati patcher installed and no custom resolution added and then reinstalling the drivers by removing it using DDU and reinstalling even taking out one card giving me the same issue. I have enough system ram (16GB) to run most games so please advice what the issue could be.

oh one more thing I tested with frame pacing off in the control panel and with mantle and without mantle so yeah very strange issue.

something like this




Trust me the refresh rate is 96hz even if in game it's 60hz cause bf4 will use refresh rate of desktop when you first open the game untill you change the refresh rate of the game in settings.


----------



## JuJo

I got 2 gtx 970 gaming g1 yesterday and I put them in sli. Then I overclocked my Qnix to 120hz. It went just fine and it runs 120hz on windows desktop without frameskipping. Then I launched a fullscreen game and it went to back 60hz. I tried vsync also, but it stays 60hz. Then I tried to put game to windowed mode, and it solves the problem. The game runs 120hz on windowed mode. Do you know how to fix this?

EDIT: got it. I had to install qnix drivers for windows


----------



## Shadowarez

Way i fixed my issue with full screen games going into dvi power save was dling latest drivers. Rebooted to safe mode use that nv driver cleaner. Rebooted comp installed latest drivers. Patched drivers from other qnix thread. Used gf experiance to reset my games optimization profiles to use new rez worked flawlessly.


----------



## chiller1064

Do you normally get shipping information- like carrier and tracking number? I finally heard back from Green Sum who said my monitor has shipped but they didn't provide any information beyond that.


----------



## Mike-IRL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiller1064*
> 
> Do you normally get shipping information- like carrier and tracking number? I finally heard back from Green Sum who said my monitor has shipped but they didn't provide any information beyond that.


I bought from accessorieswhole but I was able to track it through ebay itself I think and it arrived very quickly considering it was coming to Ireland.

They included a tracking number in the shipping confirmation email in my case but it's a different seller so not really helpful to you.


----------



## alus415

I recently got a SSD and decided to do a fresh install of my OS, before I followed the steps described by the OP and it was all working fine , the Monitors was recognized as Catleap , ran ColorSustainer under Modes saw the different hz , selected the ICC prolife and ran it and I saw the color shift.

After the reinstall followed the same steps but now my monitor is recognized as QX2710 (which is what i have anyways a Qnix) but when I start ColorSustainer it finds the QX2710 but under Modes option it only shows 59 or 60hz and when I select an ICC and run it (start) nothing happens.

What could I be doing wrong?

Any help please!


----------



## welly59

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/131318856284

Is this the one to get?


----------



## zombiefly

i've just got the matte version of that. it's currently cleared customs and will be delivered on monday.
if you read a few posts back, the qnix now uses a panel with PWM dimming. this may/may not be an issue to you. I don't yet know if it will be for me.

i will post back my results next week once i've received the monitor. There was an x-star posted on the last few pages back that DOESN'T have PWM dimming. If I have issues with it i may sell it here in the UK and get the X-Star... will have to wait and see


----------



## welly59

Just ordered it, went for the glossy in the end, my current monitor is matte but I find my friends glossy to be more vibrant. My pc is in my study so light sources are totally under my control.

Anyone have recent experience of uk customs? How will they go about charging me vat and duty? Will he delivery man expect payment when he delivers?


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly59*
> 
> Just ordered it, went for the glossy in the end, my current monitor is matte but I find my friends glossy to be more vibrant. My pc is in my study so light sources are totally under my control.
> 
> Anyone have recent experience of uk customs? How will they go about charging me vat and duty? Will he delivery man expect payment when he delivers?


Depends on what carrier they use

UPS will charge you on delivery and you have to pay it or they won't give you the monitor

DHL send you an invoice

Both cost about £45


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly59*
> 
> Just ordered it, went for the glossy in the end, my current monitor is matte but I find my friends glossy to be more vibrant. My pc is in my study so light sources are totally under my control.
> 
> Anyone have recent experience of uk customs? How will they go about charging me vat and duty? Will he delivery man expect payment when he delivers?


yes, me!







My parcel was sent via korea post. i tracked it first on the korea post website (beware, the site is a minefield and is infected with malware). eventually i found this page which allowed me to track it up to the point of it getting put onto a plane

Code:



Code:


14:01 02-Dec-2014  Posting/Collection  GIMPO  Posting office zip code : 415765

Transit or Destination country : UNITED KINGDOM

15:40 02-Dec-2014   GIMPO   
15:51 02-Dec-2014   INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE   
17:57 02-Dec-2014  Departure from outward office of exchange  INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE  Dispatch number : XXX

10:35 03-Dec-2014   INCHEON  Flight number : KE907

11:32 03-Dec-2014  Received by Air carrier  INCHEON   
13:05 03-Dec-2014  Departure from Airport  INCHEON   
16:35 03-Dec-2014  Airrival at Destination Airport  LONDON HEATHROW   
17:45 03-Dec-2014  Delivered to Destination Airport  LONDON HEATHROW   
11:15 04-Dec-2014  Arrival at inward office of exchange  GBCVTA   
11:21 04-Dec-2014   GBCVTA   
11:22 04-Dec-2014   GBCVTA   
02:53 05-Dec-2014  Departure from inward office of exchange  GBCVTA

i was then able to track it here once parcelforce had received the advisory

Code:



Code:


05-12-2014   10:40   National Hub    Received and processed
05-12-2014      03:01   International Hub       Revised charges to be paid
05-12-2014      02:53   International Hub       Forwarded for UK processing
04-12-2014      13:12   International Hub       Awaiting Customs Charging
04-12-2014      11:22   International Hub       Awaiting Customs clearance
04-12-2014      11:21   International Hub       Awaiting Customs clearance
04-12-2014      11:15   International Hub       Received in destination country
02-12-2014      17:57   Delivery Agent - SEOUL - PTT    Forwarded for export
02-12-2014      15:51   Delivery Agent - SEOUL - PTT    Forwarded for export
02-12-2014      14:01   Delivery Agent - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF

once it reached the status "Revised charges to be paid", i rang parcelforce worldwide on 0344 800 4466 and asked if i could pay this fee now, before it left the international hub. the lady was very helpful and took my package tracking number, from which she generated the customs payment number. i then paid over the phone. It will now be delivered on monday with no further payment required.

If you don't do this, it will arrive at your local sorting office who will then send you a letter first class to the delivery address. when you get that, you will have to pay online/over phone and arrange delivery/pickup. This was a delay i didn't want so i did some research and managed to cut that time off.

the customs charge was £36 for VAT/handling charge.

if your seller uses DHL or some other courier, my research led me to believe that you can pay the delivery driver on delivery. not sure about this though


----------



## welly59

Who did you order from? Mine is coming from green-sum


----------



## welly59

Also earliest tracking data is December 2nd, when did you place order?


----------



## Ramzinho

Green-SUm has the Perfect pixel GLossy Qnix for 300$... dont miss it if you want it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651#shpCntId


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zombiefly*
> 
> yes, me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My parcel was sent via korea post. i tracked it first on the korea post website (beware, the site is a minefield and is infected with malware). eventually i found this page which allowed me to track it up to the point of it getting put onto a plane
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 14:01 02-Dec-2014  Posting/Collection  GIMPO  Posting office zip code : 415765
> 
> Transit or Destination country : UNITED KINGDOM
> 
> 15:40 02-Dec-2014   GIMPO
> 15:51 02-Dec-2014   INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE
> 17:57 02-Dec-2014  Departure from outward office of exchange  INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE  Dispatch number : XXX
> 
> 10:35 03-Dec-2014   INCHEON  Flight number : KE907
> 
> 11:32 03-Dec-2014  Received by Air carrier  INCHEON
> 13:05 03-Dec-2014  Departure from Airport  INCHEON
> 16:35 03-Dec-2014  Airrival at Destination Airport  LONDON HEATHROW
> 17:45 03-Dec-2014  Delivered to Destination Airport  LONDON HEATHROW
> 11:15 04-Dec-2014  Arrival at inward office of exchange  GBCVTA
> 11:21 04-Dec-2014   GBCVTA
> 11:22 04-Dec-2014   GBCVTA
> 02:53 05-Dec-2014  Departure from inward office of exchange  GBCVTA
> 
> i was then able to track it here once parcelforce had received the advisory
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 05-12-2014   10:40   National Hub    Received and processed
> 05-12-2014      03:01   International Hub       Revised charges to be paid
> 05-12-2014      02:53   International Hub       Forwarded for UK processing
> 04-12-2014      13:12   International Hub       Awaiting Customs Charging
> 04-12-2014      11:22   International Hub       Awaiting Customs clearance
> 04-12-2014      11:21   International Hub       Awaiting Customs clearance
> 04-12-2014      11:15   International Hub       Received in destination country
> 02-12-2014      17:57   Delivery Agent - SEOUL - PTT    Forwarded for export
> 02-12-2014      15:51   Delivery Agent - SEOUL - PTT    Forwarded for export
> 02-12-2014      14:01   Delivery Agent - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF
> 
> once it reached the status "Revised charges to be paid", i rang parcelforce worldwide on 0344 800 4466 and asked if i could pay this fee now, before it left the international hub. the lady was very helpful and took my package tracking number, from which she generated the customs payment number. i then paid over the phone. It will now be delivered on monday with no further payment required.
> 
> If you don't do this, it will arrive at your local sorting office who will then send you a letter first class to the delivery address. when you get that, you will have to pay online/over phone and arrange delivery/pickup. This was a delay i didn't want so i did some research and managed to cut that time off.
> 
> the customs charge was £36 for VAT/handling charge.
> 
> if your seller uses DHL or some other courier, my research led me to believe that you can pay the delivery driver on delivery. not sure about this though


mine used Fedex and i paid my Custom charges to the delivery guy. you are 100% correct.


----------



## Abadaman

looks like there are no PWM-free Qnixes anymore, why so?


----------



## joeh4384

Hi guys, I have two X-Star monitors running from a 295x2. Before I added the 2nd one, I was able to follow the steps for overclocking for AMD and run the monitor at 100hz. After adding the 2nd monitor, I can no longer overclock any of my monitors. Any advice? The 2nd monitor is hooked up via an active display port adapter.


----------



## rrims

I got my QX2710 today! That's some amazing speed! For anyone who was wondering, I ordered it on Monday night (around 8pm). Got a tracking update on Wednesday night (again, around 8pm) that it got picked up. By 7am today it was on the truck for delivery and got dropped off here at noon. One thing I was worried about was signing for it, so I left a note on the front door with my tracking number and my signature telling them to leave it and they did!

I hooked it up and got it to 100hz stable with no skipping! But I downed it to 96hz just to be safe!

Proof to join the club:





EDIT: Forgot to mention. A heads up to anyone wanting to get a glossy screen. The glossy screen looks amazing, but is the biggest dust/dirt collector I've ever seen! It's worse then my glass TV. The glossy coating tends to draw stuff in. For example, I took the monitor out of the box, hooked it up, and thought I had a defective monitor from all the little black specks I saw. Turns out it was Styrofoam particles!


----------



## dante`afk

does anyone use a WiiU or PS4 on the Qnix2710? If so, how? what adapters do I need? where's the sound coming from?


----------



## joeh4384

I think you would need some kind of DualLink to HDMI active adapter and I do not know if they make those. I know they have active display port to dual link dvi adapters.


----------



## vaporizer

i just received this QNIX QX2710 today after ordering it on tuesday. amazing fast delivery. i love the glossy as i am used to it coming from a dell glossy. its amazing how the price on these fluctuate so much. i got mine for 10 dollars less just four days ago. no tax, no shipping. under $300 to my door. i feel like i ripped someone off its such a good deal for these. great club btw. i managed to read(ish) from post 15000k and everyone seems very helpful


----------



## IrishShea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh4384*
> 
> I think you would need some kind of DualLink to HDMI active adapter and I do not know if they make those. I know they have active display port to dual link dvi adapters.


Fairly sure that you can't use any adapters with these monitors


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IrishShea*
> 
> Fairly sure that you can't use any adapters with these monitors


I've seen someone use a passive DL-DVI to miniDP adapter before.

I have been able to use a passive DL-DVI to DisplayPort adapter before. It will run 1440p @ 60Hz or less, but will not support overclocking.


----------



## joeh4384

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IrishShea*
> 
> Fairly sure that you can't use any adapters with these monitors


I am using an active DP to dl dvi with one of mine. Unfortunately, I am having difficulties overclocking the other with CRU now.


----------



## RKCDarkside

Hey guys! I also recently purchased a QX2710 during the flash sales on Newegg. I had a quick question about overclocking. I couldn't get it up to 120hz, though having the Evolution II. I was able to get it to 96hz, but after about 110hz the vertical green lines start appearing. I thought that this might have been a problem with the original dual link cable so I ordered a new one, however, that didn't seem to solve any problems. Any idea on what's going on? Or is this monitor just not overclockable over 96?

EDIT: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WA4EBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews (The cable I ordered)


----------



## Levelog

Picked up the appropriate stuff to mod my desk to use the monoprice mount for the qnix that just came in. Gunna be good.


----------



## Bigspender

Just got my quix and left it at 96hz.


----------



## octopunch

Got my QX2710 from accessorieswhole on ebay, single input matte, no dead pixels. I actually really like the matte, much less grainy than my older Dell u2410 and no reflections.

I was worried because there was a ton of back light bleed at first when it was on the original stand, but when I mounted it vertically I can't see it any more, it looks great. Maybe it was because the original stand had it tiled back quite a bit and that put pressure on the panel or something, who knows?

But it looks great now. I think its PWM because at lowest brightness I could see a little flicker, but I medium I can't notice and have used it for a couple hours straight with no issues. Pretty happy with my buy, especially since I saved $300+ over other 27inch models I was considering.


----------



## DiceAir

So i sort of figured out my issue. When running crossfire especially on BF4 with this monitor it doesn't work well. on 60hz I get some sort of syncing issues between the cards and yes not a problem with my graphics card, motherboard or cpu as it started even with my old z77 board when I had my i5-2500k and i7-3770k. When I take out the one card or disable crossfire the issue goes away. So anyone with sli or crossfire and this monitor can test BF$ on 60hz to see if it's doing the same?

This is my issue check the thick green line and like I said before I removed overclocking completely on both my cards and monitor


----------



## ocasion

Hi my Qnix just arrived and I'm impressed and need to get confident with the new resolution, but i got a minor problem I noticed while playing.



So this is how it looks when i am running the monitor on 120Hz or 110Hz and to have a comparsion the screenshot below is with 96Hz and lower.



Do you guys have an idea what it could be? Could i solve my problem with a new cabel or would you say that it is my monitor and I can't do something about it?


----------



## Abadaman

I dont get it why some of them were pwm free before, is it more expensive for the company to prodece pwm free Qnixes? Anyone?


----------



## rrims

Aside from the HP stand that's often recommended, what sort of stands are you guys using with the QNIX? I don't want to mount it to my desk or wall just yet, but the stock stand REALLY sucks. Any suggestions?


----------



## incog

I've heard in another thread that Dell also make good stands, you can get 'em off ebay.


----------



## Kold

Is it at all possible to get the 27 inch X-Star 2710DP to pass through my Yamaha receiver into my PC? That way I can access my Yamaha receiver's GUI on my monitor? So when I press menu on my receiver controller, it will show on my monitor and allow me to finally see the settings needed to properly setup the a/v receiver.


----------



## HACO

My power brick seems to have stopped working (I have two and the power brick from the other one is working). Any idea on how/where to get a replacement power brick?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HACO*
> 
> My power brick seems to have stopped working (I have two and the power brick from the other one is working). Any idea on how/where to get a replacement power brick?


Search for brick and eBay in this thread. Lawson67 had a post on which one to get on eBay. There are some really inexpensive high quality ones on eBay, just check his post for which one to get.


----------



## antx

I'm from Belgium and I bought an x-star from dream-seller and I have to pay
customs duty : 90 €
VAT : 48€ (21%)
filing fees : 30€
total : 168€
On my 250€ screen with 30€ shipping. That can't be right... so I haven't paid yet and it sitting at the postal office. Is there anything I can do about this?
I'm trying to contact the postal office to see if they can recalculate these charges..


----------



## incog

wait so you're paying €280 + €168 ????

something in there has to be wrong


----------



## daviejams

I don't think you should be paying VAT on it for a start , that it not correct


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> I'm from Belgium and I bought an x-star from dream-seller and I have to pay
> customs duty : 90 €
> VAT : 48€ (21%)
> filing fees : 30€
> total : 168€
> On my 250€ screen with 30€ shipping. That can't be right... so I haven't paid yet and it sitting at the postal office. Is there anything I can do about this?
> I'm trying to contact the postal office to see if they can recalculate these charges..


That can't be right, I paid about €40 for the customs duty and that was it.


----------



## Tounii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> I'm from Belgium and I bought an x-star from dream-seller and I have to pay
> customs duty : 90 €
> VAT : 48€ (21%)
> filing fees : 30€
> total : 168€
> On my 250€ screen with 30€ shipping. That can't be right... so I haven't paid yet and it sitting at the postal office. Is there anything I can do about this?
> I'm trying to contact the postal office to see if they can recalculate these charges..


Why do you have to pay customs duty/ filing fees? Can't you declare it online for free?
Had the same thing when importing to Finland, the shipping company tried to charge me extra for declaring the item for me, instead I went online and did it myself for free, only had to pay VAT.


----------



## HACO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Search for brick and eBay in this thread. Lawson67 had a post on which one to get on eBay. There are some really inexpensive high quality ones on eBay, just check his post for which one to get.


Thanks. Found and ordered two to replace the other one that was working as well (as it was getting super hot).


----------



## welly59

My monitor is coming via dhl to the UK, anyone else have theirs delivered by dhl to the uk? Did you pay the driver or get invoiced for fees?


----------



## welly59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tounii*
> 
> Why do you have to pay customs duty/ filing fees? Can't you declare it online for free?
> Had the same thing when importing to Finland, the shipping company tried to charge me extra for declaring the item for me, instead I went online and did it myself for free, only had to pay VAT.


the vat charge is correct, and so is the import duty. Belgium charges higher rates up to 48% depending on country of origin


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly59*
> 
> My monitor is coming via dhl to the UK, anyone else have theirs delivered by dhl to the uk? Did you pay the driver or get invoiced for fees?


yes and was invoiced


----------



## welly59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> yes and was invoiced


cheers Davey, do you mind me asking what the charge ended up being and how long it took to be invoiced?


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly59*
> 
> cheers Davey, do you mind me asking what the charge ended up being and how long it took to be invoiced?


Pretty sure it was £45 ish

I thought I had gotten away with paying any duty but alas about a week after it arrived an invoice arrived !

Addressed to my work too (that was the delivery address) so paid them straight away. Just phoned up and paid it over the phone with my bank card


----------



## anteac

Hey,

I am planning on buying a Qnix tomorrow, but im not quite sure which one to go for as there are like 10 and all priced differently.

I want the best one obviously

my top 2 picks are these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/111380363963?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19eec97abb

or this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649

whats really the difference between them?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteac*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I am planning on buying a Qnix tomorrow, but im not quite sure which one to go for as there are like 10 and all priced differently.
> 
> I want the best one obviously
> 
> my top 2 picks are these
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/111380363963?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19eec97abb
> *Does not overclock past 85hz or so, expect frame skipping*
> or this
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111088789065?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19dd686649
> *This is the one you want, it's been discussed over and over. See OP*
> whats really the difference between them?


----------



## anteac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*


Is there a non pixel perfect version of the correct one still up for sale by any vendor?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteac*
> 
> Is there a non pixel perfect version of the correct one still up for sale by any vendor?


Yes,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25


----------



## antx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That can't be right, I paid about €40 for the customs duty and that was it.


How much did you pay in total? I just contacted Bpost (belgium's postal office) and they said I can only file a complaint and then they will recalculate the charges. But if I'm wrong to have filed a complaint and they find that the €168 was correct then I end up paying another €80 administrative fees. No idea what to do.. I'll probably end up with one of the most expensive x-stars because I will have paid €448.


----------



## anteac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c39ae25


Only ships to America and Asia..
Need it delivered to holland..


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> How much did you pay in total? I just contacted Bpost (belgium's postal office) and they said I can only file a complaint and then they will recalculate the charges. But if I'm wrong to have filed a complaint and they find that the €168 was correct then I end up paying another €80 administrative fees. No idea what to do.. I'll probably end up with one of the most expensive x-stars because I will have paid €448.


Here's an estimate:

That €80 fine does sounds treacherous tho, as you technically have no way to prove they're wrong...

What seller did you buy from btw? normally all of them come with free shipping.


----------



## antx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> That €80 fine does sounds treacherous tho, as you technically have no way to prove they're wrong...
> 
> What seller did you buy from btw? normally all of them come with free shipping.


Dream-seller, he normally doesn't ship the screen I bought to Belgium but he made an exception if I paid some extra shipping fees. In the end, €250+30shipping was my cheapest option compared to any other seller on Ebay which do ship to Belgium for free. It looks like the "douane" calculated their fees based on the price in USD which is 349,90$ and they did not convert the currency to euro, that is my only explanation for it.


----------



## anteac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteac*
> 
> Only ships to America and Asia..
> Need it delivered to holland..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> Dream-seller, he normally doesn't ship the screen I bought to Belgium but he made an exception if I paid some extra shipping fees. In the end, €250+30shipping was my cheapest option compared to any other seller on Ebay which do ship to Belgium for free. It looks like the "douane" calculated their fees based on the price in USD which is 349,90$ and they did not convert the currency to euro, that is my only explanation for it.


How do u arrange this








My seller doesnt let you message him.


----------



## antx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteac*
> 
> How do u arrange this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My seller doesnt let you message him.


All I had to do to contact Dream-Seller is go to his store, select "contact" and give in the ebay item ID of the screen that you want and add a message. I asked if he would ship to belgium and he said he would if i was willing to pay something like 40$.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> Dream-seller, he normally doesn't ship the screen I bought to Belgium but he made an exception if I paid some extra shipping fees. In the end, €250+30shipping was my cheapest option compared to any other seller on Ebay which do ship to Belgium for free. It looks like the "douane" calculated their fees based on the price in USD which is 349,90$ and they did not convert the currency to euro, that is my only explanation for it.


Accesorieswhole has been selling Qnix's for as low as €195 with free shipping to Belgium(The very cheap models come with absolutely no insurances tho). Not sure why you went and paid that much more for the X-star, they're the same monitor.

Anyway, would it be possible to refuse paying the import tax and have them ship it back? €170 on import costs is simply ridiculous, and so is that €80 fee.

I mean you'd be paying €60 more than the original Samsung monitor.


----------



## antx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Accesorieswhole has been selling Qnix's for as low as €195 with free shipping to Belgium(The very cheap models come with absolutely no insurances tho). Not sure why you went and paid that much more for the X-star, they're the same monitor.
> 
> Anyway, would it be possible to refuse paying the import tax and have them ship it back? €170 on import costs is simply ridiculous, and so is that €80 fee.
> 
> I mean you'd be paying €60 more than the original Samsung monitor.


In hindsight I should have gone for one of those cheaper ones from Accesorieswhole but for some reason I got scared of the "Off-grade" label. I'll try and contact my seller and see if he would be willing to return my money if the monitor is sent back. However when I asked the mail man what would happen if I refused the charge, he said the monitor might be confiscated but he wasn't sure on that. I'll try to find some confirmation on that.

And even if I manage to get my money back, is it possible to overclock a Samsung S27A850TS? If so i'm thinking that would be my preferred option instead of having to wait for a few weeks on shipping and it having to go through customs again.

Thank you for the advice so far, I definitely appreciate it.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> Iit possible to overclock a Samsung S27A850TS?


None of the name brand multi-input 1440p monitors can over clock without dropping frames.


----------



## dummy12

I just came from a 21.5 inch Samsung Syncmaster to the Qnix qx2710 and good lord this monitor is massive and the picture quality is simply stunning. I purchased mine from greensum via Ebay for 300$ and it was delivered in a week. I was able to OC it to 110 Hz without issue, 120 Hz gave me green bars all over the screen. I have very minor light bleed and have yet to find any dead or stuck pixels. 300$ delivered to my door is a steal for the quality of these things, it's insane. But just as everyone else in the thread has said, the stand is trash and I'll be looking for a replacement one soon. I was on the fence about purchasing this monitor in the beginning but now that I've seen the monitor in action, I have no regrets. It's a steal at the price and the picture quality is stunning.


----------



## The Storm

I have owned my X-Star for over a year now, overclocked to 110hz and this thing still looks just as good as day 1. Don't be afraid of these monitors, they really are awesome!! PS anyone wondering about the square trade warranty, I bought it with mine just for peace of mind. The monitor back then was $279 so it was cheap insurance for me.


----------



## Harry604

problem here

had my monitor for a year

cleaned drivers had a gtx 470 monitor ran fine overclock to 120 no problem

just installed a r9 290x

used cru and now i go to restart and monitor is displaying lines and going crazy


----------



## dummy12

Does anyone know what the button is for on the bottom right corner? I accidentally pressed it in while I was setting up my monitor. Not sure what it's for


----------



## welly59

I ordered my monitor on Saturday and received a text today to pay the import fees from dhl, paid £30 online so should see movement soon


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> problem here
> 
> had my monitor for a year
> 
> cleaned drivers had a gtx 470 monitor ran fine overclock to 120 no problem
> 
> just installed a r9 290x
> 
> used cru and now i go to restart and monitor is displaying lines and going crazy


Try to lower your overclock to 110hz and see if the display lines go away.


----------



## Ramzinho

Just installed 14.12 , patched, used CRU. restarted. 96Hz Voila ... no issues.. no line nothing. glad it's working. maybe higher OCs are handled differently.. but i don't see my self needing more than 96Hz


----------



## joshkope

I don't have a working PC ATM so I can't test...but what kind of effect does new AMD driver have on overclock/stability?


----------



## chiller1064

IMG_1072.JPG 629k .JPG file


My Qnix has arrived!!!


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> I don't have a working PC ATM so I can't test...but what kind of effect does new AMD driver have on overclock/stability?


96HZ here set no issues so far


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiller1064*
> 
> IMG_1072.JPG 629k .JPG file
> 
> 
> My Qnix has arrived!!!


please use the in forum picture upload utility


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> I don't have a working PC ATM so I can't test...but what kind of effect does new AMD driver have on overclock/stability?


110hz with 3 290x's perfectly stable.


----------



## joshkope

Ok. Have any of you guys tried the new dowsampling feature of the drivers? Apparently that messes up with higher than 60hz or something. Maybe that's what I was thinking of.


----------



## smithydan

Does anyone have any experience with the HDMI ones. I read the whole front and it doesn't seem to be updated on this so I am asking.

Problems, tips, overclocking, anything?

Not the True 10 ones.


----------



## chiller1064

Just fired it up- and this is what I'm seeing. No adjustments or attempts to overclock. Thoughts?

The display flickers between this and looking beyond awesome. Swapped DV-D cables and machines with different video cards (GeForce 970 GTX and Radeon HD 8670D- both support DVI-D Dual Link) and it still flickers to this intermittently.

Happens when running a application or just viewing the Windows desktop.

UPDATE: It is no longer flickering between working and not- it has settled into "not working". Looks like I got a bad panel.....


----------



## zombiefly

mine has arrived. it's plugged in and working
can't see any backlight bleed or dead pixels.

the picture quality is amazing. lowered the brightness and applied some of the colour profiles and it looks ****ing amazing. Oclocked to 96hz without issue. 120 i'm seeing weirdness so cranked it back down.
this is one seriously good bargain. amazing screen


----------



## Shadowarez

were can i find Profiles for QX2710 Evolution II Multi True10? seen only the yamikza or xstar,


----------



## mmencius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Sequel to my last post.
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/q3QwG6
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/p749o1
> 
> The original version uses a Samsung LTM270DL02 S-PLS panel while the new version uses a Samsung LTM270DL07 S-PLS panel.


Hello, thank you for this investigative post. To confirm, which models are good/old and which are bad/new? Is the original QX2710 good while the Evo II is bad? And are all X-Star DP2710 models good?


----------



## mmencius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> WoW, pictures are worth a 1000 words ... different panel model #'s explains a lot (2011 vs 2013), more model info *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM is a deal killer for many of us ... but these pics show how important color space coverage is ...
> 
> Your new 2013 LTM270DL07 looks like a Matte panel with un-calibrated washed out colors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is very disappointing ... Samsung you idiots, WHY ... WHY???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd take overclocked gamma correction needed for the "clarity" / and no PWM ... ANYDAY!!!
> This puts the LG Glossy (Cat2B) solidly back in the lead for me ... even if the newer ones aren't reaching the higher OC's they use to ....
> 
> EDIT: MT you need to send this info to Samsung/QNIX engineers/RD and "Prey" someone takes notice!


Hi TomcatV, this seems like a major issue but hasn't been mentioned so much in subsequent posts. Does the bad new washed out panel come only in the new Qnix models? Which of these panels are new/bad and which are old/good: QNIX 2710, QNIX 2710 Evo II, QNIX 2710 Evo II SE, X-Star DP2710? Can I be safe and just get an X-Star?


----------



## Navanod

Hi folk, just set up this account to join the club!

Just got a QX 2710 DP multi True10 "PIVOT" from AccessoriesWhole and got it running last night.
http://list.qoo10.sg/item/LIMITED-10QTY-QNIX-QX2710-LED/410946606


I had been reading this thread for quite abit and I know the Multi versions are generally shunned due to lack of overclocking and input lag. I also read that the default stand for this monitor is quite rubbish.
Considering all factors, I thought the better stand I'll get with the PIVOT version may be worth the tradeoff of having to get the DP multi panel that it is bundled with (kinda regret it now, the money for the DP upgrade could've gone to a VESA stand just the same). Guess I've have to wait and see how this will affect gaming (I'm not a hardcore FPS gamer, more of a CIV5, Dragon Age gamer).

Nonetheless, since it's here now, I would like to share my experience with the new PIVOT stand as well as the overclocking of the DP multi.
The last report about the overclocking capability of the Multi model was that it can now overclock to 85hz without frame skipping, but the DPMulti had not been tested (lack of buyers?).

Here are the results of my overclocking via Nvidia control panel using an EVGA GTX680 Classified.



So this confirms that both the Multi and the DPMulti can OC to 85hz, in case there are any doubts about it.
Sadly, frame skipping can be found at higher rates.
I had a typo and chose 97hz instead of 96 and I didn't bother to test other numbers as it was late. I also did not fiddle with the other timing settings and left it at "automatic". Seeing that it is already frame skipping at 97hz, is there any point in trying other numbers (96hz and below?) and playing with the manual timings?

I had tried setting the "scaling" to be handled by GPU instead of display. Would that help with the input lag?

Now about the PIVOT stand.
It came in a separate box with bubble wrap around the exterior of the box. Unfortunately, the stand was poorly secured inside the box and was shaking around. There was a thumbscrew sticking out of a big hole in the box when I got it. Apparently, the screw bore it's way through the box and the bubble wrap.
As that screw is now slightly bent, it took alot of effort to get it to turn and to get it out. At first I was very worried that it is the height adjustment knob but luckily, it turns out to be just a locking pin to keep the stand collapsed during shipping.

There was a small tag saying to remove this locking pin before mounting on the base, otherwise it will "result in injuries" or something to that effect. I was so engrossed in wrestling with that screw that when it came loose, the stand sprung open to full length and punched me in the chest. No kidding about "injuries"!
Once assembled, it is actually quite nice looking and solidly built with a wide heavy base.

Fully extended


Lowest height


Back view


Mounting


Fully assembled


The height adjustment turns out to be entirely spring based. The weight of the monitor is just nice to hold the spring in position so it is extremely easy to change the height! Just press down or push the screen up to adjust height.

Rotation, tilt and turning the screen is also done without having to mess with any screws or nuts but it is very stiff and fine adjustments are not possible. I was having a hard time making the screen face me properly because the rotation and tilt was so stiff.
It is very stable and does not wobble or shake at all. The base is wide but is low enough that I can still use that part of the desk for resting the keyboard or an iPad. Overall, I'm happy with the stand.


----------



## Navanod

Now for the physical panel itself.
Overall, I'm very happy with the colors and viewing angle, as well as the incredible resolution and extra real estate. That was the entire point of this upgrade; a huge jump from the existing old 2008 Acer Predator G24, which is a 24" TN with 1920x1200 resolution.

Now for the not-so-great.
Backlight bleeding is pretty bad, especially in the bottom right corner.
The top middle and bottom left also had visible bleeding.
(I didn't have the proper darkness to take a good picture of it. Will try again tonight)

Although I did not find any dead/bright/stuck pixels, I found a 1mm dot, stain-like artifacts in the middle of the screen as well as a twin forked "line" artifact at the bottom right corner of the screen You can see it at the dead center of this image, above and slightly left of the pointer.









This dot is visible when displaying white or colors, but cannot be seen when black. It is definitely NOT a surface stain, I've looked very very closely under various conditions and it is clearly behind the pixels. Under normal circumstances, it is not very visible as it is just a slightly darker shade of whatever colors is over it. I'm prepared to let it slide.

The 1.5 inches long "fork" at the bottom right corner (you may need to adjust your screen brightness to see it). You can also see how bad the backlight is bleeding as the various pixels are clearly visible under macro even though I'm displaying a fully black screen.









Strangely, it is only visible when displaying black and mainly because of the light bleed. It shows up as a dark shadow against the slightly backlight-bleed-lit corner of the screen. It looks like something is blocking the backlight bleed, a wire perhaps?
When displaying brighter images and other colors, I cannot really see this fork. However, in dark photos, video scenes, the fork can be seen.
I wonder if this can be fixed by fixing the backlight bleed with tape, or opening the panel up to find the source of this shadow?

Lastly, the center bottom of the panel suffers from the now infamous "gap". I'm considering if I should write to AccessoriesWhole, or attempt the DIY tape fix?
Note that all these are pre-calibration and gamma/brightness/contrast adjustments. I'll get that done tonight and see if that makes the artifacts less visible.


----------



## chiller1064

Anyone here ever dealt with Green Sum when it comes to refunds and returns?

The Qnix I received was defective out of the box (see my earlier post). I know they offer a 1 year warranty and I did buy a SquareTrade warranty as well.

Any thoughts, suggestions, etc.. on how to deal with this would be appreciated. I hope I just didn't make a $299 mistake.

Help please.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiller1064*
> 
> Anyone here ever dealt with Green Sum when it comes to refunds and returns?
> 
> The Qnix I received was defective out of the box (see my earlier post). I know they offer a 1 year warranty and I did buy a SquareTrade warranty as well.
> 
> Any thoughts, suggestions, etc.. on how to deal with this would be appreciated. I hope I just didn't make a $299 mistake.
> 
> Help please.


I had two arrive defective (neither from Green Sum) and in both cases once I contacted the seller with a picture of the flaws they sent me instructions to return the monitor and they paid return shipping. In one case I got a full refund and in the other they cross-shipped a replacement.


----------



## Navanod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiller1064*
> 
> Anyone here ever dealt with Green Sum when it comes to refunds and returns?
> 
> The Qnix I received was defective out of the box (see my earlier post). I know they offer a 1 year warranty and I did buy a SquareTrade warranty as well.
> 
> Any thoughts, suggestions, etc.. on how to deal with this would be appreciated. I hope I just didn't make a $299 mistake.
> 
> Help please.


You should be able to claim warranty as this is pretty much a deal breaking defect.


----------



## incog

That belgian issue is scary, charging €80 because they might have screwed up is criminal, lol.

Does anyone from France have experiences buying these monitors? Specifically, how much did you pay total, including possible VAT and whatnot?


----------



## anteac

ok last question before i buy it

what does SE mean in the product title?

im gonna buy this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-2560x1440-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/111258830737?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19e78b0791

as the non SE version does not ship to holland S) this is the only option im left with


----------



## chiller1064

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiller1064*
> 
> Anyone here ever dealt with Green Sum when it comes to refunds and returns?
> 
> The Qnix I received was defective out of the box (see my earlier post). I know they offer a 1 year warranty and I did buy a SquareTrade warranty as well.
> 
> Any thoughts, suggestions, etc.. on how to deal with this would be appreciated. I hope I just didn't make a $299 mistake.
> 
> Help please.


Would opening it up void my warranty? Some of my co-workers think it might be a loose connection that occurred during shipping that is causing the issue. I can't believe the seller would knowingly ship something this messed up.


----------



## joeh4384

I do not think they would have a way to tell. You have to open them up to remove the stand if you go with a vesa mount.


----------



## gcaron

Hi, I just received my Qnix QX2710LED Single-port DVI and i'm not completely satisfied with it and I wanted to ask you if it was "normal".
Almost everything is fine with the screen. No dead pixel. Quality of the image is excellent.
But the brightness doesn't seem to be right.
I attached a picture of my 2 screens side-to-side. The one on the left is my Samsung Syncmaster S27B370 and the right is the Qnix QX2710LED.
As you can see, the one on the right is almost grey compared to the other.

The brightness is set to maximum using the buttons under the screen (Not blinking when I press). (NO OSD)
I tried multiple ICC profiles (Recommended for this model).
I tried to calibrate it manually.
And the whites never really become white.. They stay faded and not really bright.

Is there anything I can do to fix this?

Thank you!


----------



## Screams

I bought my Qnix on 14 Jun, 2013 and its still going fine to this day. Been using it @ 60hz on desktop and when gaming i use 115hz (as i cannot see a difference between that and 120hz which mine can do)

side note my Achieva Shimian, bought on 22 Jul, 2012, that too is going strong.

These Korean monitors last!


----------



## chiller1064

Well, the response from Green Sum was very disappointing regarding my display issue/defective monitor.

They are apparently claiming that the issue is a result of incompatibility with the video card- even though the video card clearly exceeds their stated requirements:

From the eBay item description:

Recommended graphic cards
>NVIDIA: GTX460 or more than 1GB memory, with Dual Linked DVI-D port.
>ATI: HD6850 or more than 1GB memory, with Dual Linked DVI-D port.

I have a Nvidia GTX970 that clearly has the correct port, 4 GB of memory and can support the native resolution. I know people here have been using this same card in combination with the Qnix just fine. I even swapped to a AMD R9 270X card and tried multiple DVI-D cables (one of which was off a working display running the AMD card to a 24" LED monitor) to see if the issue would clear. It did not.

The issue clears if I tap or jiggle the monitor multiple times- but reappears if the monitor is jiggled in any way or the stand is adjusted. I may be wrong- but that is not a video card compatibility issue, a defective cable issue or using the wrong port issue. That behavior appears to be a internal defect within the display itself (faulty or loose connector or bad board). This issue first appeared when I set the display up, powered it up and when it appeared to be working removed the shipping protector film off the bezel. Soon as the monitor moved during that process, the image went bad. Tapping the right side of the monitor reset it to working condition again- but soon as the monitor was jiggled, the issue reoccurred.

I explained the issue again, stated my card exceeded/met the requirements stated on the eBay product listing and occurred when the display is disturbed. I requested a new display as a replacement and a return on the defective monitor under warranty with shipping to South Korea covered.

Not a good or positive first step in the process. Picture of the issue attached. Open to any suggestions on how to proceed and get a replacement or refund.


----------



## bmancreations

I have had three of these monitors mounted before, I have re-done my place and about to wall mount them again.

The issue is the stupid power bricks they have. First, at the very least you have these three bricks taking up space, having to be dealt with one way or another. Secondly, they are quite short for running along 3 monitors, inside the wall and down to power.

Has anyone found, used, any power cables that work with these monitors that don't have a huge power brick, or maybe at the least much MUCH longer cable?


----------



## Navanod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PersianImm0rtal*
> 
> Sorry,
> 
> When you press the Menu button on the bottom of the monitor, it brings up a Menu, to change settings like, color, brightness, and language. Under the Misc option, there is an option to change between "Normal" and "Game Mode" When I switch to game mode the screen goes black for a second and then comes back.


I just came across this same "Game Mode" for the QX2710 DPmulti True 10 as well.
For TVs, this usually helps to disable all the fancy image processing at the display side so that input lag is reduced.
Considering that input lag is a constant complain for the multi models, could this be the solution? Simply switch to game mode?

I also noticed that when game mode is on, all other adjustments (i.e. Brightness/contrast, color balance) are greyed out and no longer accessible via the display's menu system so this may indeed turn the panel into a non-multi'ish (since the non-multi does not have these adjustments) panel in the input lag aspect?

This also means that this Anandtech's review is outdated in claiming there is no game mode:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7931/qnix-qx2710leddport-review/5


----------



## welly59

My monitor has arrived! Ordered on the weekend and came today.

Couple of questions though. There's a gap between the bottom of the panel and the case, is this a normal issue? How do I resolve it?

Also these seller didn't enclose a uk adaptor, am I ok just to chop the end off and stick a uk plug on?


----------



## welly59

There is a review on Amazon where someone had the same problem, they opened the case and found d a loose wire between the pane and the control board, might be worth taking a look
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiller1064*
> 
> Well, the response from Green Sum was very disappointing regarding my display issue/defective monitor.
> 
> They are apparently claiming that the issue is a result of incompatibility with the video card- even though the video card clearly exceeds their stated requirements:
> 
> From the eBay item description:
> 
> Recommended graphic cards
> >NVIDIA: GTX460 or more than 1GB memory, with Dual Linked DVI-D port.
> >ATI: HD6850 or more than 1GB memory, with Dual Linked DVI-D port.
> 
> I have a Nvidia GTX970 that clearly has the correct port, 4 GB of memory and can support the native resolution. I know people here have been using this same card in combination with the Qnix just fine. I even swapped to a AMD R9 270X card and tried multiple DVI-D cables (one of which was off a working display running the AMD card to a 24" LED monitor) to see if the issue would clear. It did not.
> 
> The issue clears if I tap or jiggle the monitor multiple times- but reappears if the monitor is jiggled in any way or the stand is adjusted. I may be wrong- but that is not a video card compatibility issue, a defective cable issue or using the wrong port issue. That behavior appears to be a internal defect within the display itself (faulty or loose connector or bad board). This issue first appeared when I set the display up, powered it up and when it appeared to be working removed the shipping protector film off the bezel. Soon as the monitor moved during that process, the image went bad. Tapping the right side of the monitor reset it to working condition again- but soon as the monitor was jiggled, the issue reoccurred.
> 
> I explained the issue again, stated my card exceeded/met the requirements stated on the eBay product listing and occurred when the display is disturbed. I requested a new display as a replacement and a return on the defective monitor under warranty with shipping to South Korea covered.
> 
> Not a good or positive first step in the process. Picture of the issue attached. Open to any suggestions on how to proceed and get a replacement or refund.


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly59*
> 
> My monitor has arrived! Ordered on the weekend and came today.
> 
> Couple of questions though. There's a gap between the bottom of the panel and the case, is this a normal issue? How do I resolve it?
> 
> Also these seller didn't enclose a uk adaptor, am I ok just to chop the end off and stick a uk plug on?


eh no , you should have a power brick for it ? The kettle lead that goes into that power brick , get a UK one. IEC lead the correct name for it is , should be able to buy them in maplin etc , places like that. Or just take one from an old laptop or PC


----------



## welly59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> eh no , you should have a power brick for it ? The kettle lead that goes into that power brick , get a UK one. IEC lead the correct name for it is , should be able to buy them in maplin etc , places like that. Or just take one from an old laptop or PC


I have the power brick and kettle lead, I should be able to cut the euro plug off though and replace with uk plug. Wiring Should be same colours and it's definitely a 3 wire kettle lead


----------



## chiller1064

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly59*
> 
> There is a review on Amazon where someone had the same problem, they opened the case and found d a loose wire between the pane and the control board, might be worth taking a look


Do not want to do anything that would void my warranty- especially given the response from the seller. I wouldn't even know what to look for and don't want to take a chance of breaking something.

Already repacked the monitor. Will see what the seller comes back with I guess.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly59*
> 
> I have the power brick and kettle lead, I should be able to cut the euro plug off though and replace with uk plug. Wiring Should be same colours and it's definitely a 3 wire kettle lead


You don't have an old one you can use instead? The power brick end is universal, so an old power supply (or whatever) cable should work.


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I have had three of these monitors mounted before, I have re-done my place and about to wall mount them again.
> 
> The issue is the stupid power bricks they have. First, at the very least you have these three bricks taking up space, having to be dealt with one way or another. Secondly, they are quite short for running along 3 monitors, inside the wall and down to power.
> 
> Has anyone found, used, any power cables that work with these monitors that don't have a huge power brick, or maybe at the least much MUCH longer cable?


i had the same issue when i put my tv on the wall (has a similar brick), i didn't want to plaster the power brick into the wall, so i ended up getting a bigger kettle lead and running that to the back of the tv, then storing the brick behind the tv. now if it ever dies i can replace without ripping the wall apart. You cant get rid of it as it's the voltage transformer.


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You don't have an old one you can use instead? The power brick end is universal, so an old power supply (or whatever) cable should work.


i had the same problem (no uk adaptor) so i just swapped the kettle cable for a uk one. simples...


----------



## Forceman

I have to admit, I've never heard it called a kettle cable/lead before though.


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I have to admit, I've never heard it called a kettle cable/lead before though.


are you in the UK? for some reason we've decided to call them that over here because err, kettles use them







[although a shorter version]


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zombiefly*
> 
> are you in the UK? for some reason we've decided to call them that over here because err, kettles use them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [although a shorter version]


I've worked in electrical industry in UK for 20 years and we've always called them kettle leads


----------



## Amph

so this thing QNIX QX2710 2, is really good?

27 1440p 120hz oc and ips, all togheter seem too good to be true? i'm missing some con?


----------



## zombiefly

having just bought one (dual dvi input) i can say, i'm amazed at what i've received for the price. however as you'll read in this thread, there have been issues with faults and stuff. luckily mine checked out ok and i'm very happy with it


----------



## antx

An update on my problem, I'm from Belgium and I had to pay €168 customs charges because the ebay-seller added the shipping costs to the value of the product on the invoice (I paid extra shipping costs to get it shipped to belgium). Which means customs added the shipping costs (85euro) again to the value when calculating their fees: 14% import rights + €30 formality fees and a 21% import tax. I tried to explain the seller made a mistake but there was nothing I could do to lower the €168 customs charge.

So after paying €448 in total for the monitor (I was already invested at this point due to the shipping costs and no guarantee I would get refunded my money)I opened the box and see this: 
My heart sank to the ground upon seeing it broken like that. But I realized that its only the tempered glass that is broken and not the panel itself so i removed all the glass (which was glued on). Now it is running fine @96hz (can't handle 110Hz) with no black pixels and little BLB. It is however glossy and the reflection is annoying during a few hours of the afternoon when the sun hits the screen.


----------



## welly59

Man that's bad!! At least it Still works though I suppose.

Can anyone shed some light on my little issue, the brightness buttons don't seem to do anything- press each way multiple times and I can't see any differ in bright, buttons work though as the light flashes when I press the buttons


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zombiefly*
> 
> i had the same issue when i put my tv on the wall (has a similar brick), i didn't want to plaster the power brick into the wall, so i ended up getting a bigger kettle lead and running that to the back of the tv, then storing the brick behind the tv. now if it ever dies i can replace without ripping the wall apart. You cant get rid of it as it's the voltage transformer.


I don't know what that is, or where I could get one? You simple mean the part that plugs into the wall and then into the brick, find a longer one of those? Can you find those anywhere?


----------



## antx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *welly59*
> 
> Man that's bad!! At least it Still works though I suppose.


It's not that bad, after explaining to Dream-Seller what happened he offered to partially refund me. He refunded 55$. I could not recommend him more, the customer service is great. He went above and beyond to make sure I was happy with it. So the monitor ended up costing me €400 which is fine for me, I didn't expect it though.

For anyone else from Belgium considering to buy this monitor these are all of customs & duties charges:


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> I don't know what that is, or where I could get one? You simple mean the part that plugs into the wall and then into the brick, find a longer one of those? Can you find those anywhere?


yes thats what i mean. you can get them on amazon here


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> It's not that bad, after explaining to Dream-Seller what happened he offered to partially refund me. He refunded 55$. I could not recommend him more, the customer service is great. He went above and beyond to make sure I was happy with it. So the monitor ended up costing me €400 which is fine for me, I didn't expect it though.
> 
> For anyone else from Belgium considering to buy this monitor these are all of customs & duties charges:


Maybe importing from S-Korea got more expensive, but I only had to pay ~€50 in customs & duties charges. I did ask them to ship it at a lower value tho.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> I'm from Belgium and I bought an x-star from dream-seller ..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> So after paying €448 in total for the monitor (I was already invested at this point due to the shipping costs and no guarantee I would get refunded my money)I opened the box and see this:
> 
> 
> 
> My heart sank to the ground upon seeing it broken like that. But I realized that its only the tempered glass that is broken and not the panel itself so i removed all the glass (which was glued on). Now it is running fine @96hz (can't handle 110Hz) with no black pixels and little BLB. *It is however glossy and the reflection is annoying* during a few hours of the afternoon when the sun hits the screen.
Click to expand...

*Tempered Glass over Glossy ... this is very interesting!*
I am now very curious as to what exact type screen you were ordering? Do you have a link to the Dream-Seller ebay ordering page you used? Did it say it was a "Matte" / "Tempered Glass" / or a "Glossy" panel in the title or anywhere in the description?

We haven't seen a Tempered Glass over a true Glossy in over a year. IMHO the shipper did you a favor by getting rid of the tempered glass for you, your reflections would have been worse and your clarity/colors slightly dulled, especially your "blacks/greys! ... see MT's pics *HERE* ...

*AND* if you have one of the older panels (Samsung LTM270DL02 S-PLS panel vs the newer LTM270DL07 S-PLS panel) I also suspect you do not have to deal with PWM diming ... more info *HERE* and *HERE* ...

*PWM Testing Info ...*

If you could do the PWM test (*HERE*) ... simple camera test *HERE* ... and confirm your Samsung panel's model number, I'm sure MenacingTuba and several others would be quite interested in your results/findings









So all in all it looks like you could be PWM free and have a QNIX/X-Star glossy panel that could only be purchased for $700-$800 until recently ... and I'd be very happy with that purchase even considering all the Belgium duties/fees hassle








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mmencius*
> 
> Hello MenacingTuba, thank you for this investigative post (HERE). To confirm, which models are good/old and which are bad/new? Is the original QX2710 good while the Evo II is bad? And are all X-Star DP2710 models good?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mmencius*
> 
> Hi TomcatV, this seems like a major issue but hasn't been mentioned so much in subsequent posts. Does the bad new washed out panel come only in the new Qnix models? Which of these panels are new/bad and which are old/good: QNIX 2710, QNIX 2710 Evo II, QNIX 2710 Evo II SE, X-Star DP2710? Can I be safe and just get an X-Star?
Click to expand...

We can't confirm which make/models correlate to which Samsung panel #'s and if they suffer from PWM diming or not, it's still a lottery, (more user info needed). I also would NOT confirm that all the newer {cheaper $$$'s wise) glossy panels would look washed out with less clarity like in MT's pics. Most guys are reporting the opposite and like the Glossy panels they received ... but not everyone is as critical as MT and myself ... YMMV









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> were can i find Profiles for QX2710 Evolution II Multi True10? seen only the yamikza or xstar,


I haven't seen any color profiles for the AH-VA True10 models as all have reported very good colors straight out of the box (60Hz-85Hz). The same is true for the PLS single input models @60Hz. The reason you see custom color profiles in this thread, is there is a noticeable gamma shift, dimming of the panels, for overclock's of 96Hz to 120Hz! Something you do not need to worry about as your overclocks could not go beyond 75Hz-85Hz without dropping frames (see HERE) ... still you could search/PM the few True10 users in this thread and see if they calibrated their panels and ask for their profile to try?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Navanod*
> 
> Hi folk, just set up this account to join the club!
> 
> Just got a QX 2710 DP multi True10 "PIVOT" from AccessoriesWhole and got it running last night.
> http://list.qoo10.sg/item/LIMITED-10QTY-QNIX-QX2710-LED/410946606
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I had been reading this thread for quite abit and I know the Multi versions are generally shunned due to lack of overclocking and input lag. I also read that the default stand for this monitor is quite rubbish.
> Considering all factors, I thought the better stand I'll get with the PIVOT version may be worth the tradeoff of having to get the DP multi panel that it is bundled with (kinda regret it now, the money for the DP upgrade could've gone to a VESA stand just the same). Guess I've have to wait and see how this will affect gaming (I'm not a hardcore FPS gamer, more of a CIV5, Dragon Age gamer).
> 
> 
> Nonetheless, since it's here now, I would like to share my experience with the new PIVOT stand as well as the overclocking of the DP multi.
> The last report about the overclocking capability of the Multi model was that it can now overclock to 85hz without frame skipping, but the DPMulti had not been tested (lack of buyers?).
> 
> Here are the results of my overclocking via Nvidia control panel using an EVGA GTX680 Classified.
> 
> 
> 
> So this confirms that both the Multi and the DPMulti can OC to 85hz, in case there are any doubts about it.
> Sadly, frame skipping can be found at higher rates.
> I had a typo and chose 97hz instead of 96 and I didn't bother to test other numbers as it was late. I also did not fiddle with the other timing settings and left it at "automatic". Seeing that it is already frame skipping at 97hz, is there any point in trying other numbers (96hz and below?) and playing with the manual timings?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I had tried setting the "scaling" to be handled by GPU instead of display. Would that help with the input lag?
> 
> Now about the PIVOT stand.
> It came in a separate box with bubble wrap around the exterior of the box. Unfortunately, the stand was poorly secured inside the box and was shaking around. There was a thumbscrew sticking out of a big hole in the box when I got it. Apparently, the screw bore it's way through the box and the bubble wrap.
> As that screw is now slightly bent, it took alot of effort to get it to turn and to get it out. At first I was very worried that it is the height adjustment knob but luckily, it turns out to be just a locking pin to keep the stand collapsed during shipping.
> 
> There was a small tag saying to remove this locking pin before mounting on the base, otherwise it will "result in injuries" or something to that effect. I was so engrossed in wrestling with that screw that when it came loose, the stand sprung open to full length and punched me in the chest. No kidding about "injuries"!
> Once assembled, it is actually quite nice looking and solidly built with a wide heavy base.
> 
> Fully extended
> 
> 
> Lowest height
> 
> 
> Back view
> 
> 
> Mounting
> 
> 
> Fully assembled
> 
> 
> The height adjustment turns out to be entirely spring based. The weight of the monitor is just nice to hold the spring in position so it is extremely easy to change the height! Just press down or push the screen up to adjust height.
> 
> Rotation, tilt and turning the screen is also done without having to mess with any screws or nuts but it is very stiff and fine adjustments are not possible. I was having a hard time making the screen face me properly because the rotation and tilt was so stiff.
> It is very stable and does not wobble or shake at all. The base is wide but is low enough that I can still use that part of the desk for resting the keyboard or an iPad. Overall, I'm happy with the stand
> 
> 
> .


Very informative post in all regards ... +R








I wish all guys did it like this ... I will update the True10 info!








It wouldn't hurt to try OC's above 85Hz (specifically 96HZ) but I don't think it will be successful ... 85Hz is a solid OC for a multi True10, and so far the highest without frame dropping, so I'd be quite happy with that!








I wonder if we could purchase that stand from QNIX? Looks very nice! Or maybe source it from the original supplier? Are there any other model #'s or identifying marks on the stand itself?


----------



## Abadaman

I just want to share my story, got my first matte Qnix almost an year ago, it was PWM free, but i broke it trying to fix BLB (which was not that bad at all), ordered second one matte Qnix from accessorieswholesale, got one with PWM, had to sell it as i am sensitive to flickering, tried my luck for the third time, ordered Xstar glossy from dreamseller, it had PWM, oced without weird artifacts only up to 100hz(the gamma didnt change tho, weird), plus the colors were washed out compared to the previous Qnix. It seems as there are different PLS panels:

PWM Free panel with deeper contrast(?), overclocks better, but gamma raises
Panel that uses PWM, doesnt oc so well(up to 100hz wihout artifacts in my case, also the colors stay unchanged when oced), with abit washed out colors

I have a feeling that most of the panels that come in Qnixes/Xstars nowadays use PWM, have a bit washed out colors compared to the previous one and doesnt OC so well. This wont be an issue for many users and many will be happy with their purchase, that i am sure, but considering that i had different Qnixes/Xstars, i can say, that they use different PLS panels now....so more lottery than before


----------



## emperorr

Anyone have any good recommendations for a USB powered displayport to DL-DVI?

Considering this
http://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418464432&sr=1-3&keywords=displayport+to+dvi+powered
but there are some bad reviews.


----------



## antx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *Tempered Glass over Glossy ... this is very interesting!*
> I am now very curious as to what exact type screen you were ordering? Do you have a link to the Dream-Seller ebay ordering page you used? Did it say it was a "Matte" / "Tempered Glass" / or a "Glossy" panel in the title or anywhere in the description?


This is the screen that I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tempered-Glass-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/321226150944
It says in the description that is has Tempered glass but no mention of glossy or matte.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> If you could do the PWM test (*HERE*) ... simple camera test *HERE* ... and confirm your Samsung panel's model number, I'm sure MenacingTuba and several others would be quite interested in your results/findings


I don't own a camera where I can manually set the shutter speed. But I used an Ipad mini to test the pwd and the line appears as one solid line indicating that the screen has no pwd. (no matter what I did, I could not get a photo where the line was displayed multiple times like in the examples even when turning brightness down more or moving more quickly)
I'm happy with the screen. Glossy takes a bit of getting used to, having a vague reflection staring back at me every time there is a black screen is a bit.. odd.
I was able to overclock to 115hz without skipping frames (tested with http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping) and without any artifacting/green lines but when I went ingame those green lines would appear from time to time so I turned the overclock down to 110hz and I don't have any problems anymore.

The color configuration is still wrong, I tried a lot of different existing color profiles but none seem to fix my problem, which is a blue tint. White appears more blueish than on my 2nd monitor. It looks like I will have to make my own personal color profile to fix that.


----------



## samwisekoi

Just picked up my X-Star DP2710 Multi from Dreamseller. Works great at 1440p with my AMD-powered Win 7 gaming PC over HDMI. Gorgeous, although I certainly lost half of my frame rate to the increased pixel count. I'll be fixing that with some Crossfire action...

Meanwhile over on my Linux PC, the new monitor came up briefly at 1080p over a DVI cable, but as soon as I launched the Monitor control panel, the X-Star dropped into an infinite test loop. This box is not for gaming, and is running an Nvidia GTX 650Ti pushing two monitors. The Acer 4:3 monitor stayed fine, but no joy on the X-Star.

However, since I didn't actually NEED the extra pixels on my second monitor in my work, I faked it out so it works in 1080p.

Step 1: Poser down the system and monitors.
Step 2: Install an actual 1080p monitor in place of the X-Star (still on DVI from the 650Ti).
Steo 3: Verify it works as before.
Step 4: WITHOUT TELLING LINUX ABOUT IT, swap the DVI cable to the X-Star.

Result: 1080p on the X-Star under Linux without resorting to horrible xorg configuration. Confirmed that input changes on the X-Star bring the gaming PC up at 1440p, and then back to 1080p under Linux.

Works so far; now to try power-cycling the Linux box to make sure the solution persists. I will probably do that with the X-Star OFF.

- Ron | samwisekoi
_Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad._

Update: Nope, not persistent through either reboot or log out/in cycles. My uptime on Linux is very long, so I am going with this solution until I find time to deal with xorg and EDID configurations.

*TL;DR The steps above will enable TEMPORARY use of an X-Star DP2710 Multi monitor in 1080p under Linux. Temporary in this case means as long as you don't reboot Linux.*


----------



## ucantescape1992

Can anyone using the HP ZR22w Monitor Stand let me know if they've had stability problems due to weight? I'm sick and tired of the POS stock Qnix stand and I'd like at least pivot and height adjustment, swivel would be nice too.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> This is the screen that I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tempered-Glass-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/321226150944
> It says in the description that is has Tempered glass but no mention of glossy or matte.
> I don't own a camera where I can manually set the shutter speed. But I used an Ipad mini to test the pwd and the line appears as one solid line indicating that the screen has no pwd. (no matter what I did, I could not get a photo where the line was displayed multiple times like in the examples even when turning brightness down more or moving more quickly)
> I'm happy with the screen. Glossy takes a bit of getting used to, having a vague reflection staring back at me every time there is a black screen is a bit.. odd.
> I was able to overclock to 115hz without skipping frames (tested with http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping) and without any artifacting/green lines but when I went ingame those green lines would appear from time to time so I turned the overclock down to 110hz and I don't have any problems anymore.
> 
> The color configuration is still wrong, I tried a lot of different existing color profiles but none seem to fix my problem, which is a blue tint. White appears more blueish than on my 2nd monitor. It looks like I will have to make my own personal color profile to fix that.


Very nice, we appreciate the info ... +R









Regarding ICC custom profiles, remember every screen is different and what looks good to one doesn't always work for another. Best scenario is to calibrate it yourself, might even be worth it to rent (or borrow?) the calibration tool. I suspect you have one of the older glossy panels which would do better with a custom profile from over 1.5yrs ago. Try a search from the summer of 2013 going backwards ... on a quick search all I found was *THIS* or *THIS* ...







... note most of the profiles are for Matte panels, maybe contact apav / CptKuolio for what they used way back then. ALSO maybe MenacingTuba could help you out as I believe he also has an older PWM free glossy QNIX









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> I just want to share my story, got my first matte Qnix almost an year ago, it was PWM free, but i broke it trying to fix BLB (which was not that bad at all), ordered second one matte Qnix from accessorieswholesale, got one with PWM, had to sell it as i am sensitive to flickering, tried my luck for the third time, ordered Xstar glossy from dreamseller, it had PWM, oced without weird artifacts only up to 100hz(the gamma didnt change tho, weird), plus the colors were washed out compared to the previous Qnix. It seems as there are different PLS panels:
> 
> PWM Free panel with deeper contrast(?), overclocks better, but gamma raises
> Panel that uses PWM, doesnt oc so well(up to 100hz wihout artifacts in my case, also the colors stay unchanged when oced), with abit washed out colors
> 
> I have a feeling that most of the panels that come in Qnixes/Xstars nowadays use PWM, have a bit washed out colors compared to the previous one and doesnt OC so well. This wont be an issue for many users and many will be happy with their purchase, that i am sure, but considering that i had different Qnixes/Xstars, i can say, that they use different PLS panels now....so more lottery than before


Interesting thoughts, I mostly concur, maybe not w/washed out colors??? ... +R









I know you recently went for the Cat2B at that fantastic price, but if it turns out to use PWM dimming, I would try the Tempered Glass model (glossy underneath) "antx" recently purchased *HERE* .
I don't think tempered glass is being offered on any of the newer panels, it caused more hassel/confusion for suppliers than potential benefits/sales! ... I think his is "old stock" and a very good chance to get one without PWM ... and it is very simple to remove the tempered glass, which is the 1st thing I'd do








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwisekoi*
> 
> Just picked up my X-Star DP2710 Multi from Dreamseller. Works great at 1440p with my AMD-powered Win 7 gaming PC over HDMI. Gorgeous, although I certainly lost half of my frame rate to the increased pixel count. I'll be fixing that with some Crossfire action...
> 
> Meanwhile over on my Linux PC, the new monitor came up briefly at 1080p over a DVI cable, but as soon as I launched the Monitor control panel, the X-Star dropped into an infinite test loop. This box is not for gaming, and is running an Nvidia GTX 650Ti pushing two monitors. The Acer 4:3 monitor stayed fine, but no joy on the X-Star.
> 
> However, since I didn't actually NEED the extra pixels on my second monitor in my work, I faked it out so it works in 1080p.
> 
> Step 1: Poser down the system and monitors.
> Step 2: Install an actual 1080p monitor in place of the X-Star (still on DVI from the 650Ti).
> Steo 3: Verify it works as before.
> Step 4: WITHOUT TELLING LINUX ABOUT IT, swap the DVI cable to the X-Star.
> 
> Result: 1080p on the X-Star under Linux without resorting to horrible xorg configuration. Confirmed that input changes on the X-Star bring the gaming PC up at 1440p, and then back to 1080p under Linux.
> 
> Works so far; now to try power-cycling the Linux box to make sure the solution persists. I will probably do that with the X-Star OFF.
> 
> - Ron | samwisekoi
> _Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad._
> 
> Update: Nope, not persistent through either reboot or log out/in cycles. My uptime on Linux is very long, so I am going with this solution until I find time to deal with xorg and EDID configurations.
> 
> *TL;DR The steps above will enable TEMPORARY use of an X-Star DP2710 Multi monitor in 1080p under Linux. Temporary in this case means as long as you don't reboot Linux.*


Good Linux info +R








Please post future progress/fixes as you discover them ... they may? also be applicable for the single-input PLS version


----------



## etsqueezer

Hey all,

just bought a Qnix QX2710 from dreamseller, was delivered in one week. came with no dead pixels, however there was some backlight bleed. In addition, the brightness controls do not function. I decided to open up the frame following the videos linked here (http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/12960#post_21702207). As soon as I opened it up however, I realized that the monitor I have is not similar to the monitor in the videos. It looks like the tape fix has already been appled to the frame straight from korea, and the rail system is different. there are simply some L brackets that hold all four corners, display is not fastened to the new brackets. there was some play, so i bent the brackets to hold the display tighter. I did not try removing the tape and straightening the frame.

I can also confirm that there is PWM, however I dont think im particularly sensitive to this. overclocks to 96 hz easily, no apparent gamma shift. At 110hz there are very small green artifacts on screen, and at 120 hz its a complete mess of green artifacts everywhere.

IMG_20141214_1416366871.jpg 2194k .jpg file


IMG_20141214_1416459541.jpg 2045k .jpg file


IMG_20141214_1432283601.jpg 3473k .jpg file


----------



## samwisekoi

Cheaters never prosper.









The temporary fix I described above does work. However, the definition of "temporary" (at least under LMDE) is really "until any log-in event". This includes log-out/in, restart, and -- annoyingly -- screensaver password entry.

I can also confirm that an ASUS 1080p monitor takes up very little desk space when leaning against a wall to the right of the new monitor. In portrait mode; no stand attached.

get-edid comes back bad -- if it comes back at all. So there is that to look into. However, I am using a single-link DVI cable, and will try a dual-link cable before hacking xorg.

My use case requires multi-input, which means there is a scalar PCB in this monitor. Is that where EDID info is stored? That extra PCB may have implications on broader application of any fix I find.

I'll post more about Linux as I get it working. However, I can confirm that the X-Star DP2710 Multi worked immediately with my Win7 PC with AMD GPU. Looks great! The Tomb Raider benchmark with TressFX looks really, really good. 30fps, so that blows. I guess I can either decide it looks "cinematic" or actually build my dual 290X gaming rig.

First World problems!

- samwisekoi
_Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad._


----------



## Venekor

I am looking for a new monitor about $200 or less. Any recommendations? For gaming/movies. I am in the US.


----------



## anteac

I have ordered my Qnix (link) on 12 december, but the vendor has just shipped it this morning... not too happy with the wait.

I have a tracking link now, but it says " Exception" since like an hour...
Bad news I think!?

Look at the screenshot I attached to see what the tracking page looks like...

http://i.imgur.com/E41r1Gi.png

Anyone else had this ? what happens now? is it bad? if yes, how bad?

greets


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteac*
> 
> I have ordered my Qnix (link) on 12 december, but the vendor has just shipped it this morning... not too happy with the wait.
> 
> I have a tracking link now, but it says " Exception" since like an hour...
> Bad news I think!?
> 
> Look at the screenshot I attached to see what the tracking page looks like...
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/E41r1Gi.png
> 
> Anyone else had this ? what happens now? is it bad? if yes, how bad?
> 
> greets


sound about the same amount of time it took to get mine out. be patient, it's the Holiday season, and i'm sure everyone is a little slow getting product out the door. once shipped, it took only two days from Korea to the states. BTW, congratz on your new monitor. you will love it when it does come in.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emperorr*
> 
> Anyone have any good recommendations for a USB powered displayport to DL-DVI?
> 
> Considering this
> http://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418464432&sr=1-3&keywords=displayport+to+dvi+powered
> but there are some bad reviews.


I have used Accell B087B-007B successfully. You may want to search this forum, I know a while back when this came up, someone found one on ebay for a lot cheaper.

As for the one you linked, I don't recall seeing anyone having tried it. I do know the cheaper Accell one (002B) model didn't work for me, I think due to the lower transfer rate.

On a side note, overclocking using a powered DP to DL/DVI is questionable.


----------



## Levelog

Man I love this thing. Picked up the Qnix single input from neweggflash for 309 and a monoprice 3 way arm for 15 and it looks perfect next to my AOC 29" 2560x1080. Tests fine at 96Hz, haven't tried higher yet


----------



## castlefire

ok why is it when i overlock to 96h
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteac*
> 
> I have ordered my Qnix (link) on 12 december, but the vendor has just shipped it this morning... not too happy with the wait.
> 
> I have a tracking link now, but it says " Exception" since like an hour...
> Bad news I think!?
> 
> Look at the screenshot I attached to see what the tracking page looks like...
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/E41r1Gi.png
> 
> Anyone else had this ? what happens now? is it bad? if yes, how bad?
> 
> greets


its on its way once its in the Hands of UPS or Fedex relax. nothing bad is gonna happen to your monitor. mine took 1 week to ship from dreal-seller but mine cam in perfect and im of the the lucky one that was able to get the metal frame X-star Matt Finish


----------



## moopsy

Hey, i've been looking for a model on ebay to buy. But i can't seam to find the one that's recommended in this thread that being.
Single DVI input, matte finish (not evo 2) one , PLS one.


----------



## castlefire

this version

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-27-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-Matte-Screen-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-PC-Monitor-/161009806039?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item257ceeaad7


----------



## Shadowarez

My Qnix multi tru 10 ocs to 110hz but i do notice fps drops in games. Wgen i hit the osd its staying at 110hz at all times. But nothing i do vsync doesnt stnc to 110hz its almost always 78-98 fps.


----------



## beppeboh

Hi everybody! I had my monitor, a QNIX, two weeks ago. So far pretty satisfied, OC to 105mhz and great colours. The only thing I am concerned is a greenish shadow in the bottom of the screen. In the pictures you can see it. It appears only with black or really dark background. I've been looking around for what could it be or a possible solution but so far nothing. They don't look to me as stuck pixels. Any ideas or solutions?




Thanks


----------



## N3RORE

Hello guys!
add me in the club!








I took the model Qnix QX2710 Evo II PLS Glossy (319.90 USD but I'm living in Italy) on Ebay by Green-sum, just perfect! no dead pixel, only a light but very light back light bleed on the top right corner (negligible).
 

For now I have only tested at 96 Hz and is perfect!










P.S. I've noted (before bring this model) that all feedback(last 3-4 months) related to Green-sum for all Qnix QX2710 Evo II PLS *Glossy* reported that pixel are perfect, is a simple cases?


----------



## samsonite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwisekoi*
> 
> Just picked up my X-Star DP2710 Multi from Dreamseller. Works great at 1440p with my AMD-powered Win 7 gaming PC over HDMI. Gorgeous, although I certainly lost half of my frame rate to the increased pixel count. I'll be fixing that with some Crossfire action...
> 
> Meanwhile over on my Linux PC, the new monitor came up briefly at 1080p over a DVI cable, but as soon as I launched the Monitor control panel, the X-Star dropped into an infinite test loop. This box is not for gaming, and is running an Nvidia GTX 650Ti pushing two monitors. The Acer 4:3 monitor stayed fine, but no joy on the X-Star.
> 
> However, since I didn't actually NEED the extra pixels on my second monitor in my work, I faked it out so it works in 1080p.
> 
> Step 1: Poser down the system and monitors.
> Step 2: Install an actual 1080p monitor in place of the X-Star (still on DVI from the 650Ti).
> Steo 3: Verify it works as before.
> Step 4: WITHOUT TELLING LINUX ABOUT IT, swap the DVI cable to the X-Star.
> 
> Result: 1080p on the X-Star under Linux without resorting to horrible xorg configuration. Confirmed that input changes on the X-Star bring the gaming PC up at 1440p, and then back to 1080p under Linux.
> 
> Works so far; now to try power-cycling the Linux box to make sure the solution persists. I will probably do that with the X-Star OFF.
> 
> - Ron | samwisekoi
> _Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad._
> 
> Update: Nope, not persistent through either reboot or log out/in cycles. My uptime on Linux is very long, so I am going with this solution until I find time to deal with xorg and EDID configurations.
> 
> *TL;DR The steps above will enable TEMPORARY use of an X-Star DP2710 Multi monitor in 1080p under Linux. Temporary in this case means as long as you don't reboot Linux.*


Hey

I got my Qnix QX 2710 to display 1440p on Linux mint by changing the xorg.conf file but I do not know how to make my Acer 1080p to work along side it









*UPDATE:* Got it working!! I just added a few things to xorg.conf and now both monitors work fine.


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beppeboh*
> 
> Hi everybody! I had my monitor, a QNIX, two weeks ago. So far pretty satisfied, OC to 105mhz and great colours. The only thing I am concerned is a greenish shadow in the bottom of the screen. In the pictures you can see it. It appears only with black or really dark background. I've been looking around for what could it be or a possible solution but so far nothing. They don't look to me as stuck pixels. Any ideas or solutions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Looks like backlight bleed. Mine does that too. Looks real similar. Photos make it look worse than it is. I don't even notice anymore. I rather have that than dead pixels IMO.


----------



## beppeboh

No I was talking about that green mark you can clearly see in the second picture. I actually noticed the backlight bleed only after I've taken the pictures







but I don't notice it even a little with my naked eyes. Here I am posting another picture of the mark, its taken without any light source around so I hope is more clear.


----------



## SeanEboy

Found a deal on Slickdeals for the X-Rite i1Display Pro Calibration Meter @ $154.00 from B&H, down to $129 with rebate. I think this would be a relevant place to post this right..?

http://slickdeals.net/f/7520432-x-rite-i1display-pro-129-00-rebate-bhphoto


----------



## emperorr

Hey guys, question for the triple monitor people,

I just set up my new 2 monitors alongside my older one and everything is great, except one problem I found. Since I am using 3 DLDVI connections I had to order an adapter for Displayport to DLDVI and while it's all hooked up and working, when I went to OC the monitor with the adaptor I find CRU added refresh rates aren't actually saving. I use the tool, add a 96hz profile and restart computer and the resolution doesn't stay. Has anyone else had this or fixed this problem? I am using that powered USB dell adaptor for 50$ that most people seem to use and haven't heard of this problem before.

Input much appreciated,
Entropy


----------



## Shadowarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beppeboh*
> 
> No I was talking about that green mark you can clearly see in the second picture. I actually noticed the backlight bleed only after I've taken the pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I don't notice it even a little with my naked eyes. Here I am posting another picture of the mark, its taken without any light source around so I hope is more clear.


I have this slightly on bottom right corner of mine should i downclock it to 96hz from 110hz since my rig cant seem to keep the fps above 100? In most games?


----------



## samwisekoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samsonite*
> 
> Hey
> 
> I got my Qnix QX 2710 to display 1440p on Linux mint by changing the xorg.conf file but I do not know how to make my Acer 1080p to work along side it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE:* Got it working!! I just added a few things to xorg.conf and now both monitors work fine.


Tell me more!

Seriously, what did you add to the xorg config? Please share the codez!

- Ron | samwisekoi
_Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad._


----------



## beppeboh

I don't know if it's something related to OC but I don't think so. For what I've seen on the web might be that I cleaned the monitor with a product while I shouldn't. If you also cleaned yours with some kind of cleaning product you can conferm that might be that I can blame only myself for that, otherwise I don't know what could have caused that. Can you please post a picture of your mark to see how much is similar to mine?


----------



## anteac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> sound about the same amount of time it took to get mine out. be patient, it's the Holiday season, and i'm sure everyone is a little slow getting product out the door. once shipped, it took only two days from Korea to the states. BTW, congratz on your new monitor. you will love it when it does come in.


Got it in today, had to chase the UPS truck with high speed because he stopped at my house, decided that my house number was 23 (= actually 3) and reported that it was adressed to the wrong address.
immediately I tracked the status and saw what happened, chased him, found him after like 5min and he drove back to house number 3 to deliver it to me














\

Got it now, removed the stand and vesa mounted it to my existing mount.

Have not tried to OC or do anything fancy with it, open for suggestions.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beppeboh*
> 
> Hi everybody! I had my monitor, a QNIX, two weeks ago. So far pretty satisfied, OC to 105mhz and great colours. The only thing I am concerned is a greenish shadow in the bottom of the screen. In the pictures you can see it. It appears only with black or really dark background. I've been looking around for what could it be or a possible solution but so far nothing. They don't look to me as stuck pixels. Any ideas or solutions?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *beppeboh*
> 
> I don't know if it's something related to OC but I don't think so. For what I've seen on the web might be that I cleaned the monitor with a product while I shouldn't. If you also cleaned yours with some kind of cleaning product you can conferm that might be that I can blame only myself for that, otherwise I don't know what could have caused that. Can you please post a picture of your mark to see how much is similar to mine?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

[/quote]

That is definitely not caused by an unstable overclock ... and If that wasn't caused by you (cleaning solvents?) then it looks like a panel defect similar to what Accessorieswhole sells as "Off-Grade" (cheap $219) w/limited warranty and actually puts pictures in the add showing what kind of defects you can expect ... see *HERE* ... pic below

see pic on right from accessorieswhole ebay add ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Hello guys!
> add me in the club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the model Qnix QX2710 Evo II PLS Glossy (319.90 USD but I'm living in Italy) on Ebay by Green-sum, just perfect! no dead pixel, only a light but very light back light bleed on the top right corner (negligible).
> 
> 
> For now I have only tested at 96 Hz and is perfect!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. I've noted (before bring this model) that all feedback(last 3-4 months) related to Green-sum for all Qnix QX2710 Evo II PLS *Glossy* reported that pixel are perfect, is a simple cases?


Very nice, good info! Your report would be complete with your system specs (see sig) AND a test for PWM Dimming ...

If you could do the PWM test (*HERE*) ... simple camera test *HERE* ... I'm sure MenacingTuba and several others would be quite interested in your results/findings









PWM diming ... more info *HERE* and *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> My Qnix multi tru 10 ocs to 110hz but i do notice fps drops in games. Wgen i hit the osd its staying at 110hz at all times. But nothing i do vsync doesnt stnc to 110hz its almost always 78-98 fps.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I have this slightly on bottom right corner of mine should i downclock it to 96hz from 110hz since my rig cant seem to keep the fps above 100? In most games?
Click to expand...

We seem to have a *"failure to communicate*"









So I will say this directly and bluntly ... I tried to say this several times before, BUT if you overclock a multi-input True10 model beyond 75-85Hz, your overclock is WORTHLESS!

Because you are dropping frames you are causing more problems to your overall game performance/enjoyment!
A stable overclocked monitor at 75-85Hz without dropping frames will perform monumentally better than an unstable overclock dropping frames at any overclocked HZ. ... try it and you'll see


----------



## samsonite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwisekoi*
> 
> Tell me more!
> 
> Seriously, what did you add to the xorg config? Please share the codez!
> 
> - Ron | samwisekoi
> _Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad._


Hey, sorry for the late response.

Go to the following directory /etc/X11

and add the following to the xorg.conf file

http://pastebin.com/Tmvn4jhS

If you do not have and xorg.conf file in that directory than creating one with linux mint is easy. Right click the x11 folder and open as root then right click and create a new document and name it xorg.conf. Lastly copy and paste the contents of pastebin to the xorg.conf file and save.

Restart and see if that helps

*EDIT:* A couple of things to watch out for in the code, change the the GPU name to yours and in where it says the following:

"metamodes" "*DFP-0*: 2560x1440_60 +0 +0, *DFP-3*: 1920x1080 +2560+0"

DFP-0 --1st DVI of your GPU, occupying your 1440p monitor

DFP-1 -- ignore since it represents HDMI

DFP-2 or 3 ---- 2nd DVI. In most cases it a 2 but mine was a 3


----------



## Shadowarez

Ahh ok thank you ill play around with it try make it show more then just 60-96-110-120hz in control panel.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very nice, good info! Your report would be complete with your system specs (see sig) AND a test for PWM Dimming ...
> 
> If you could do the PWM test (*HERE*) ... simple camera test *HERE* ... I'm sure MenacingTuba and several others would be quite interested in your results/findings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM diming ... more info *HERE* and *HERE* ...


Many thanks, my signature has been updated and I'll try to test for PWM.


----------



## viper2005

When I turn on the xstar I get a bright red and green light for a split second. After some time the screen flickers not much but enough to fatigue me.

Question

Is there something I can do about this (power board, wiring, etc?)

Thanks


----------



## Shadowarez

I think ill order that single input monitor suggested here rma my qnix multi 10 see if i still can been under a month.


----------



## joeh4384

Anyone using multiple Qnix's and overclocking using an AMD card? I am having difficulties overclocking 1 monitor when I have two connected. I can overclock the monitor, then my secondary display doesnt work. I have two of them using a 295x2.


----------



## viper2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper2005*
> 
> When I turn on the xstar I get a bright red and green light for a split second. After some time the screen flickers not much but enough to fatigue me.
> 
> Question
> 
> Is there something I can do about this (power board, wiring, etc?)
> 
> Thanks


the first pic is with the brightness turned down and the second with the brightness turned all the way up


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Regards


----------



## beppeboh

Quote:


> That is definitely not caused by an unstable overclock ... and If that wasn't caused by you (cleaning solvents?) then it looks like a panel defect similar to what Accessorieswhole sells as "Off-Grade" (cheap $219) w/limited warranty and actually puts pictures in the add showing what kind of defects you can expect ... see HERE ... pic below
> 
> see pic on right from accessorieswhole ebay add ...


Thank you for the reply. When the monitor arrived I tested it to see if everything was all right and it was flawless. After few days I've noticed the thing. To clean it I have used, but just once, a window cleaning product, but reading around I found out is a no no, because it could take the anti-glare off. The point is that is no effect due to smeared anti glare AFAIK. The model I bought is not an off grade also, was a normal matte one. Do you suggest me to contact my seller and RMA it? Does you or anyone know how much it costs to send it back to Korea from UK? I don't really want to spend the same money as a not-imported monitor I could buy here. In the worst case scenario I could resell it and buy a new one in the near future or keep it like this, it is not that annoying and you can barely notice only in certain gradations of colour.
Thanks again!


----------



## Ignoarints

Hello everyone. I recently debezeled to fix some BLB. Disassembly was smooth. When I put it all back together I got this






(It's out of the frame because I took it out to check the cables after I saw it do this the first time)

I took it all apart again and checked all the cables and connectors. I noticed that there may be something missing here



Those tabs on the right, are there supposed to be four? I see traces in them and possible connection points on the panel. Would that cause this? If it was there, it simply fell off during disassembly and I just didn't notice it. I haven't found it if it did.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Many thanks, my signature has been updated and I'll try to test for PWM.


Very good, the simple camera test would suffice ... *+R* to you for your effort and clarity









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper2005*
> 
> When I turn on the xstar I get a bright red and green light for a split second. After some time the screen flickers not much but enough to fatigue me.
> 
> Question ... Is there something I can do about this (power board, wiring, etc?)
> Thanks
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *viper2005*
> 
> the first pic is with the brightness turned down and the second with the brightness turned all the way up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards
Click to expand...

If you are describing obvious screen flickr and not a sensitivity to PWM dimming, then yes you may find a fix in assuring all your wiring/connections are tight/secure ... BUT if it's PWM, some have been able to make it tolerable doing what you did by turning the brightness up ... Screen flickr in still picture shots is impossible for us to see. You could do the simple camera test I mentioned in my previous post ... But if you are describing a bright green then red fullscreen picture that is part of the test pattern OR even if your describing your power state LED's. it could be a connection or driver? problem ...

Note: The power (grn/red) LED's are very finicky on these monitors and extremely unreliable. Mine barely come on anymore BUT my monitor performs/overclocks flawlessly! ... hope that helps









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> I think ill order that single input monitor suggested here rma my qnix multi 10 see if i still can been under a month.


Before you ditch that monitor, try 75-85Hz, you may be surprised?







... even though you have the horsepower (SLI680's) to take advantage of higher refresh rates (96Hz-120Hz) from the *other* QNIX model [single-input PLS] panel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beppeboh*
> 
> Thank you for the reply. When the monitor arrived I tested it to see if everything was all right and it was flawless. After few days I've noticed the thing. To clean it I have used, but just once, a window cleaning product, but reading around I found out is a no no, because it could take the anti-glare off. The point is that is no effect due to smeared anti glare AFAIK. The model I bought is not an off grade also, was a normal matte one. Do you suggest me to contact my seller and RMA it? Does you or anyone know how much it costs to send it back to Korea from UK? I don't really want to spend the same money as a not-imported monitor I could buy here. In the worst case scenario I could resell it and buy a new one in the near future or keep it like this, it is not that annoying and you can barely notice only in certain gradations of colour.
> Thanks again!


Well it only takes once, and certain cleaning solvents can "stain" not necessarily remove AG coating ... sounds like user error and I don't think you'd get an RMA approved, and the return costs (appx$150 USA/UK?) can be quite prohibitive to send in for repair ... If it's not that annoying and overclocks well ... *I'd keep it!* ...








If it overclocks well (110-120Hz?), even with the stain. you probably could sell it for $240-$280 US ... maybe more? ... if the stain is only noticeable on certain backgrounds. which looks to be the case


----------



## peppson

Well, stupid me did not read up before getting an DVI-D>HDMI adapter.

I was looking to play xbox one on my QNIX2710. Is it impossible? Screen just flashes white,red,green when plugged in with the connector :C

is there ANY way to make my qnix able to show the xbox one screen?


----------



## Gilles3000

I dont think any of the HDMI to DVI adaprters work with the Qnix. You should've gotten the multi input model, I think...


----------



## peppson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I dont think any of the HDMI to DVI adaprters work with the Qnix. You should've gotten the multi input model, I think...


Well thats a shame, i guess i have to play on my second 24' monitor then. I was really looking forward to play with KB/M + the QNIX


----------



## beppeboh

Quote:


> Well it only takes once, and certain cleaning solvents can "stain" not necessarily remove AG coating ... sounds like user error and I don't think you'd get an RMA approved, and the return costs (appx$150 USA/UK?) can be quite prohibitive to send in for repair ... If it's not that annoying and overclocks well ... I'd keep it! ... biggrin.gif
> If it overclocks well (110-120Hz?), even with the stain. you probably could sell it for $240-$280 US ... maybe more? ... if the stain is only noticeable on certain backgrounds. which looks to be the case wink.gif


Well thank you for the opinion. In the end I'm pretty satisfied with the product and the overclock (110hz and proof picture that follows) I think I will keep it for a while and then I will order a brand new one and sell this one in an auction on ebay. In the end is as I was thinking, I can blame only myself and my stupidity








Anyway I would like as I am here to officially ask to join the club







. Is it possible to do it here or do I have to write a separate post? Thanks again, all the best.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ignoarints*
> 
> Hello everyone. I recently debezeled to fix some BLB. Disassembly was smooth. When I put it all back together I got this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (It's out of the frame because I took it out to check the cables after I saw it do this the first time)
> 
> I took it all apart again and checked all the cables and connectors. I noticed that there may be something missing here
> 
> 
> 
> Those tabs on the right, are there supposed to be four? I see traces in them and possible connection points on the panel. Would that cause this? If it was there, it simply fell off during disassembly and I just didn't notice it. I haven't found it if it did.


Hello,
For fix the BLB have you only adjusted the metal frame or put also electrical tape on the corners of the metal frame?


----------



## viper2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> If you are describing obvious screen flickr and not a sensitivity to PWM dimming, then yes you may find a fix in assuring all your wiring/connections are tight/secure ... BUT if it's PWM, some have been able to make it tolerable doing what you did by turning the brightness up ... Screen flickr in still picture shots is impossible for us to see. You could do the simple camera test I mentioned in my previous post ... But if you are describing a bright green then red fullscreen picture that is part of the test pattern OR even if your describing your power state LED's. it could be a connection or driver? problem ...
> 
> Note: The power (grn/red) LED's are very finicky on these monitors and extremely unreliable. Mine barely come on anymore BUT my monitor performs/overclocks flawlessly! ... hope that helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


just another note

when i turn off and on the monitor i get a very bright (instant) light which dimms to normal almost instantly.
Has anyone experienced something like that?

Thanks


----------



## valid8

Can you set resolution to 1920x1200p on these korean monitors? and if so at what refresh frequency could I OC it? 90Hz, 96Hz 100Hz?... more than that?


----------



## samwisekoi

Linux and X-Star DP2710 Multi Update

Happiness! (No joy, but happiness.) Dual monitors; no tears or xorg fiddling. This is probably a configuration that can be replicated by other Linux users.

Setup:

Core i7 PC running Windows 7 Pro
NVIDIA GTX 650 Ti GPU

Linux Mint Debian Edition <-- Not just Mint; Debian Mint.

Nouveau display driver (Open source "nv" driver)

Primary monitor: Acer 19" 1280x1024 VGA
Secondary monitor: X-Star DP27120 Multi 2560x1440 DVI (single link)
(Also attached to a Win 7 gaming PC, and runs great at 1440p via HDMI.)

*"Just plug it in" results: X-Star defaults to 1440p and cycles through a configuration sequence. Have to physically unplug DVI cable and restart Linux PC to regain control.

Current situation: Enabled NVIDIA driver as detailed below and now have dual displays functioning with the X-Star in 1080p (Linux/DVI) and 1440p (Windows/HDMI).
*

What I did:

*Step One: Enable NVIDIA closed source driver, but do NOT hand-configure xorg.conf (much)*

In Linux:

Code:



Code:


[email protected]:~$  sudo -i

[email protected]:~#  nvidia-detect
Detected NVIDIA GPUs:
01:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GK106 [GeForce GTX 650 Ti] [10de:11c6] (rev a1)
Your card is supported by the default drivers and version 304.
It is recommended to install the
    nvidia-driver
package.

[email protected]:~#  apt-get install nvidia-driver

[email protected]:~# vim /etc/X11/xorg.conf

Section "Device"
Identifier "Device0"
Driver "nvidia"
EndSection

[email protected]:~# reboot

Use whatever text editor you like, and reboot however you like. The stub xorg.conf only turns on the NVIDIA closed-source driver. The reboot enables it under X-windows.

*But wait, there's more!*

The above is not enough; the X-Star still is unhappy with 1440p from the Linux machine. So...

*Step Two: Set Monitor Preferences*

1. Open the Monitor Preferences panel,

2. Detect monitors.

3. Set ' Digital Projection Limited 22" ' display to 1920 x 1080 at 60 Hz.

4. Apply.

5. Assuming it works... Keep This Configuration.

Once that was done, the X-Star worked beautifully as a large 1080p monitor, and when I switched to HDMI, it worked beautifully as a 1440p monitor over HDMI.

This meets my needs for the secondary display. I have a dual-link DVI cable in front of me, so I will install that to see if I get 1440p. But if not, I now have a functional 1080p secondary display running under Linux Mint Debian Edition. And the 1440p gaming experience I bought the X-Star for!
*
TL;DR To enable the X-Star Multi as a secondary display in Linux Mint Debian Edition, install and enable the NVIDIA closed-source driver and set the X-Star to 1080p. It will then be a 1080p Linux monitor via DVI and a Windows 1440p monitor via HDMI.*

I hope the above helps someone else!

I'll update this again if I get 1440p working.

- Ron | samwisekoi
_Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad._


----------



## JordanMeBaby

Hey guys.

I just received my X-Star DP2710LED today and I'm having a peculiar issue with it. Perhaps some of you may be able to shed some light on it?

The monitor works perfectly. The issues arise when I either restart or shut-down my desktop. When the desktop boots up again, the monitor will produce a black screen. I can hear things such as Skype booting up in the background, just without picture. I can boot into BIOS and see all the initial screens no problem but as soon as Windows gets involved it just doesn't put out a picture.
One workaround is to remove the DVI-D cable while it has black screened, plug it into my old 1080p monitor which then produces my desktop, and then plug it back into the 1440p monitor and then everything works fine. I've tried using 2 different DVI-D cables and the same thing occurs. I'm plugging it into my r9 295x2 with the latest drivers.

Any ideas? I've never had anything like this happen before.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## peppson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valid8*
> 
> Can you set resolution to 1920x1200p on these korean monitors? and if so at what refresh frequency could I OC it? 90Hz, 96Hz 100Hz?... more than that?


emh yeah ofc? Just set your res in windows


----------



## antx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peppson*
> 
> emh yeah ofc? Just set your res in windows


I don't think you can. I can't do that.. it will produce something similar to black bars but instead of black it is green artifacting.


----------



## peppson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antx*
> 
> I don't think you can. I can't do that.. it will produce something similar to black bars but instead of black it is green artifacting.


Hm, really wierd. I dont have that problem. If u get black bars you just go to into cataclyst controllpanel/nvidia and click on "scale image to full panel size"


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very good, the simple camera test would suffice ... *+R* to you for your effort and clarity


Hello, two bad news...
my monitor has PWM dimming, I've used the camera of my Samsung S2, and plus when I was at work my wife trying to clean the monitor (It was clean) has pressed hard on the screen and now the BLB on the cornes is horrible to see... I'll try ti fix asap..


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Hello, two bad news...
> my monitor has PWM dimming, I've used the camera of my Samsung S2, and plus when I was at work my wife trying to clean the monitor (It was clean) has pressed hard on the screen and now the BLB on the cornes is horrible to see... I'll try ti fix asap..


Try holding the monitor upside down and shaking it gently for few seconds, that helped me, these qnixes are very sensitive when it comes to ,,cleaning'' them or pressing the screen. Better to put em at their place and dont touch them.

As for the PWM, nowadays they all use PWM, which is not a problem for some, for me it was... :/ Word of advice, if you are not experienced when it comes to opening screens, etc., dont touch them, i had a PWM free Qnix an year ago, opened it trying to fix minimal BLB, i was sure that i know what i am doing, well, in some point (dont know when and where as i did everything as in the videos), it went wrong and there was a black vertical line after.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Try holding the monitor upside down and shaking it gently for few seconds, that helped me, these qnixes are very sensitive when it comes to ,,cleaning'' them or pressing the screen. Better to put em at their place and dont touch them.
> 
> As for the PWM, nowadays they all use PWM, which is not a problem for some, for me it was... :/ Word of advice, if you are not experienced when it comes to opening screens, etc., dont touch them, i had a PWM free Qnix an year ago, opened it trying to fix minimal BLB, i was sure that i know what i am doing, well, in some point (dont know when and where as i did everything as in the videos), it went wrong and there was a black vertical line after.


Many thanks for the info.

I have much experience in the mount and unmount my pc (You can see in sig), but I never touched a monitor and this is holding me to unmount it, otherwise I would have already done.
The photo of Ignorantis(http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/22140#post_23299894) is the situation that I don't want and until that the BLB will not be too troublesome I shall leave in this situation.

About PWM, at moment I don't have any problem and honestly after two hours of gaming my eyes aren't too many tired respect the previous monitor it was a Asus VE248H.


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

just though I would add that my glossy xstar has a samsung display LTM270DL02. I was curious on what actual display it was using.

I only took it apart due to the fact the stand adjustment was loose causing my screen to almost fall over a few times.

Unfortunately one of the screws broke the housing so I just removed it completely


----------



## milkyxj

I have a triple Qnix de-bezeled setup (OC to 120hz). I just sold my SLI 780 lightnings and am looking for new cards to push them. Have 860w PSU, 4770k, Fractal R4 case. I really want an 8gb card so I'm looking at 290x 8gb or waiting for 970/980 8gb in Feb. What would you guys do if you were me? Can do SLI 970's for the price I got for my 780's, was thinking about just getting EVGA cards now then doing the step up when 8gb version hits.


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkyxj*
> 
> I have a triple Qnix de-bezeled setup (OC to 120hz). I just sold my SLI 780 lightnings and am looking for new cards to push them. Have 860w PSU, 4770k, Fractal R4 case. I really want an 8gb card so I'm looking at 290x 8gb or waiting for 970/980 8gb in Feb. What would you guys do if you were me? Can do SLI 970's for the price I got for my 780's, was thinking about just getting EVGA cards now then doing the step up when 8gb version hits.


I'd probably wait for the new cards to come out now but if I were you I would go for the 290x as they are better at higher resolutions


----------



## Kold

Anyone able to run the DVI only monitor through an A/V receiver? Like.. DVI to HDMI cable connected to the monitor out on the A/V receiver and the computer connected to the receiver via HDMI to HDMI?

This way, I'd be able to access the receiver's on screen display from my monitor whenever I need to adjust the receiver's settings.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I really don't want to go back down to 1080p monitor for it to work. I'm also willing to buy the multi port 1440p if I have to have HDMI to HDMI to get it to work.


----------



## Shadowarez

Im still trying to narrow down issues with my dvi-hdmi qnix some games are dipping to 48-55 fps when iv locked my monitor to 75 hz. If this thing cant hold a stable oc then suddenly the dead pixel and back light bleed is too noticeable. My rig should be able to handle any game on ultra detail cept the pos uglysoft titles.


----------



## Algeron

I became a member just to say thank you to everyone that posted with solutions to the various problems presented by people, as it was very helpful to myself as well.

I bought a Qnix QX2710LED Evolution II from the seller geen-sum.

Perfect pixel no noticeable back bleed. Got it to 110hz,









Just one question: I get little green lines when i try for 120hz, that means I need a better cable right?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Algeron*
> 
> I became a member just to say thank you to everyone that posted with solutions to the various problems presented by people, as it was very helpful to myself as well.
> 
> I bought a Qnix QX2710LED Evolution II from the seller geen-sum.
> 
> Perfect pixel no noticeable back bleed. Got it to 110hz,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just one question: I get little green lines when i try for 120hz, that means I need a better cable right?


Not necessarily, could just be that your monitor won't overclock that high. You could try though, but I've read it's generally a long shot to rely on a better cable. There's no reason not to try though


----------



## emperorr

Can anyone confirm they have been able to OC a monitor that uses a displayport adaptor on AMD using CRU?

I'm starting to feel like I wasted 50$ on the adapter when I could have just bought a multi input monitor and used my DP.

I'm guessing Nvidia cards dont have htis issue since they can set refresh rates in Nvidia control panel?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkyxj*
> 
> I have a triple Qnix de-bezeled setup (OC to 120hz). I just sold my SLI 780 lightnings and am looking for new cards to push them. Have 860w PSU, 4770k, Fractal R4 case. I really want an 8gb card so I'm looking at 290x 8gb or waiting for 970/980 8gb in Feb. What would you guys do if you were me? Can do SLI 970's for the price I got for my 780's, was thinking about just getting EVGA cards now then doing the step up when 8gb version hits.


can you tell me more in detail how these work 3x monitors? i have 2 working on getting 3rd. i do alot of emulating,is it good with these monitors?


----------



## Raven19x

Just bought this X-STAR DP2710LED PLS from dream-seller. http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm hoping I bought the "right" one here for overclocking. Finally upgrading from 1920x1080 gaming and 60 Hertz!

Now time to find a good enough vesa to replace that ugly stand. Can anyone recommend any?


----------



## policiacaro

Just became a member on Christmas! I ended up getting a perfect pixel glossy QNIX QX Evolution II from green-sum, and it is an incredible upgrade from my Samsung S22B310. I was able to clock the old Samsung to 75Hz and be stable, which was nice, but this panel blows it out of the water.

The first thing I did after opening was see how high I could clock it. I got to 100Hz and its stable, but anywhere after that and the colors start smearing on the right side of the screen. I wanted to get 110Hz, but I am happy I was at least to hit triple digits.

I do have this odd problem with the monitor however; When I start my pc, the left half of the monitor is all weird and splayed out and looks like I am looking through a sheet of glass with lines running up and down it. It is very odd, and it usually happens when I first start up. I restart my pc about 3 times and it goes away, and everything runs perfectly fine. Apart from that, I didn't get any dead pixels, (I did order the perfect pixel version to be safe) and I have some pretty heavy backlight bleeding on the bottom corners I am going to try and fix when the time allows it.

Happy to be part of the club! Just hope I can fix that weird start up issue.

12/27/14 UPDATE: I found out that just leaving the panel on while its being fed information fixes the issue I'm having, so I am thinking it might just be something to do with the panel warming up. I really don't want to return this one, it had almost perfect colors out of the box, no dead pixels, and I was able to hit 100 Hz stable.


----------



## fisher6

I made the decision to upgrade from a 1080p to a Qnix 1440p to fully take advantage of my new GTX 970. I spent the last few hours reading up on the do's and the don't. I won't be getting the SE or True10 version, instead I'm looking for the "more" overclockable version. I also prefer a glossy display. Before I order, I just wanted to post the ebay and get it checked in case I have missed anything.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c

Do you guys think the price is reasonable? I found another link with Pixel Perfect that is a bit more expensive but I doubt this would make any real difference.

Thanks.


----------



## plow

Hi all, I'm new to the club and decided to take a dive into overclocking monitors after reading all the great results people are having. However, I wonder if I just got a bum display.

First. anything above 86 gives me pixel corruption. It's like clusters of pixels start to shimmer - it's a very noticeable artifact. 86 seems to work fine, but I was really hoping for more.

Second, I read somewhere to start high and work backwards. So, I started at 110 and man, that didn't work a bit. Half the display was black and the other half was just vertical lines. After I was able to get my screen back to view-able, there were, and still are, vertical line artifacts. Although, they seem to be diminishing as I type this - I hope I didn't do any permanent damage, I only had this thing for 3 days.

Anyway, I was wondering if someone might be able to shed some light on my situation..

Here is my rig, all purchased from New Egg -

i5 4690k
MSI Z97-Gaming Z97 Motherboard
2 x GIGABYTE GTX 970 4GB in SLI - 347.09 Drivers
EVGA 80 PLUS BRONZE 750W PS
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB

and of course the monitor

QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Glossy

I've followed the tutorial to a 'T' - patched the drivers using the full patch since I'm running SLI, and updated the monitor driver with the QNIX driver. Again, I can get to 86, but at 110 the screen was not view able, and at 96/98 I would get pixel corruption.

Any thought and/or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance for any help!


----------



## policiacaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plow*
> 
> Hi all, I'm new to the club and decided to take a dive into overclocking monitors after reading all the great results people are having. However, I wonder if I just got a bum display.
> 
> First. anything above 86 gives me pixel corruption. It's like clusters of pixels start to shimmer - it's a very noticeable artifact. 86 seems to work fine, but I was really hoping for more.
> 
> Second, I read somewhere to start high and work backwards. So, I started at 110 and man, that didn't work a bit. Half the display was black and the other half was just vertical lines. After I was able to get my screen back to view-able, there were, and still are, vertical line artifacts. Although, they seem to be diminishing as I type this - I hope I didn't do any permanent damage, I only had this thing for 3 days.
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if someone might be able to shed some light on my situation..
> 
> Here is my rig, all purchased from New Egg -
> 
> i5 4690k
> MSI Z97-Gaming Z97 Motherboard
> 2 x GIGABYTE GTX 970 4GB in SLI - 347.09 Drivers
> EVGA 80 PLUS BRONZE 750W PS
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB
> 
> and of course the monitor
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Glossy
> 
> I've followed the tutorial to a 'T' - patched the drivers using the full patch since I'm running SLI, and updated the monitor driver with the QNIX driver. Again, I can get to 86, but at 110 the screen was not view able, and at 96/98 I would get pixel corruption.
> 
> Any thought and/or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance for any help!


I don't think you did any permanent damage, but I am still new to all this. I would suggest always starting from your base line and working up as a rule of thumb for any overclocking, so if some SNAFU happens and you end up getting a new panel or another one, start from 60 and work your way up. I worked up in increments of 5 using the Nvidia control panel since it has a nifty test button, and the whole thing took me about 30 mins. You should definitely be able to hit at least 90, but from what I understand, every monitor is different, so some just get unlucky and cant go too high. I have read somewhere that you can potentially change ("tighten" as I read it) the timings and use the "Reduced" setting to maybe get some higher Hz. Definitely do more research in this forum and on some others. I found a wealth of info over on Hardforum, so maybe check there.


----------



## APhamX

I was looking around ebay for a 1440p monitor and came across this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221645636935

Is it too good to be true? I got one, but haven't paid the seller yet.


----------



## ebhsimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *APhamX*
> 
> I was looking around ebay for a 1440p monitor and came across this.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221645636935
> 
> Is it too good to be true? I got one, but haven't paid the seller yet.


33 rep for the seller. Just make sure you pay with a credit card.


----------



## APhamX

Ah, good call on the credit card. I was like, worst case scenario I get a dead screen or something. Then I can dispute and just ship it back, shouldn't cost more than $15 to ship back.


----------



## Deluxe

If it looks too good to be true.......


----------



## fisher6

How about this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c&rmvSB=true


----------



## Shadowarez

Doesnt say perfect pixel in title. Maybe a offgrade panel.


----------



## plow

Thanks for the info, policiacaro. Quick question for the forum -

I noticed that unsuccessful overclocks for the members on this forum result in lines and black screens. I certainly get that when I try 110. But, anything between 88 and 96 gives me this strange pixel shimmering/flickering on the left panel. The right panel is perfect, its just the left.

Maybe there is a fix I could try? I redid the whole driver clean and reinstall thing and that didn't change anything. Maybe a better cable but I don't see anyone posting that a new cable fixed any issues. Full disclaimer though - I didn't read all 2218 pages









Again,any help is appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Doesnt say perfect pixel in title. Maybe a offgrade panel.


PP is like 50$ more. All the off grade ones I found are less than 319$.


----------



## Roland2

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *policiacaro*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just became a member on Christmas! I ended up getting a perfect pixel glossy QNIX QX Evolution II from green-sum, and it is an incredible upgrade from my Samsung S22B310. I was able to clock the old Samsung to 75Hz and be stable, which was nice, but this panel blows it out of the water.
> 
> The first thing I did after opening was see how high I could clock it. I got to 100Hz and its stable, but anywhere after that and the colors start smearing on the right side of the screen. I wanted to get 110Hz, but I am happy I was at least to hit triple digits.
> 
> I do have this odd problem with the monitor however; When I start my pc, the left half of the monitor is all weird and splayed out and looks like I am looking through a sheet of glass with lines running up and down it. It is very odd, and it usually happens when I first start up. I restart my pc about 3 times and it goes away, and everything runs perfectly fine. Apart from that, I didn't get any dead pixels, (I did order the perfect pixel version to be safe) and I have some pretty heavy backlight bleeding on the bottom corners I am going to try and fix when the time allows it.
> 
> Happy to be part of the club! Just hope I can fix that weird start up issue.
> 
> 12/27/14 UPDATE: I found out that just leaving the panel on while its being fed information fixes the issue I'm having, so I am thinking it might just be something to do with the panel warming up. I really don't want to return this one, it had almost perfect colors out of the box, no dead pixels, and I was able to hit 100 Hz stable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plow*
> 
> Hi all, I'm new to the club and decided to take a dive into overclocking monitors after reading all the great results people are having. However, I wonder if I just got a bum display.
> 
> First. anything above 86 gives me pixel corruption. It's like clusters of pixels start to shimmer - it's a very noticeable artifact. 86 seems to work fine, but I was really hoping for more.
> 
> Second, I read somewhere to start high and work backwards. So, I started at 110 and man, that didn't work a bit. Half the display was black and the other half was just vertical lines. After I was able to get my screen back to view-able, there were, and still are, vertical line artifacts. Although, they seem to be diminishing as I type this - I hope I didn't do any permanent damage, I only had this thing for 3 days.
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if someone might be able to shed some light on my situation..
> 
> Here is my rig, all purchased from New Egg -
> 
> i5 4690k
> MSI Z97-Gaming Z97 Motherboard
> 2 x GIGABYTE GTX 970 4GB in SLI - 347.09 Drivers
> EVGA 80 PLUS BRONZE 750W PS
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB
> 
> and of course the monitor
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Glossy
> 
> I've followed the tutorial to a 'T' - patched the drivers using the full patch since I'm running SLI, and updated the monitor driver with the QNIX driver. Again, I can get to 86, but at 110 the screen was not view able, and at 96/98 I would get pixel corruption.
> 
> Any thought and/or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance for any help!


First off, don't install the patch. You don't need it, and it may be causing issues. I run GTX 780Ti's SLI'd with no patches, no QNIX drivers, and have no problems.

I'm assuming you have the single input model, not the multi or true10, is this correct?

Others have had issues with the GTX 900 series when it comes to overclocking, you may want to search this thread to see if any previous posts will help.


----------



## plow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> false
> 
> First off, don't install the patch. You don't need it, and it may be causing issues. I run GTX 780Ti's SLI'd with no patches, no QNIX drivers, and have no problems.
> 
> I'm assuming you have the single input model, not the multi or true10, is this correct?
> 
> Others have had issues with the GTX 900 series when it comes to overclocking, you may want to search this thread to see if any previous posts will help.


Correct, I have the single input model. Thanks for the info. I just undid the patch and that didn't help.. bummer. It seems strange that it only happens on the left side. Perhaps mine is bunk and 88 is all I'm gonna get. I was really hoping to see what it was like to play some games at a higher clock.

Just a quick edit. You mentioned I don't need the patch. I'm running SLI - does that require patching? Not sure if you saw that in my machine specs.

Any other suggestions are welcome.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plow*
> 
> Correct, I have the single input model. Thanks for the info. I just undid the patch and that didn't help.. bummer. It seems strange that it only happens on the left side. Perhaps mine is bunk and 88 is all I'm gonna get. I was really hoping to see what it was like to play some games at a higher clock.
> 
> Just a quick edit. You mentioned I don't need the patch. I'm running SLI - does that require patching? Not sure if you saw that in my machine specs.
> 
> Any other suggestions are welcome.


No, you don't need the patch even when running SLI. The newer GPU's don't need it.

Since it is only one side, have you checked the cable/ tried a different one? Sometimes when only part of the screen is affected, a loose/bad cable is the cause.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plow*
> 
> Hi all, I'm new to the club and decided to take a dive into overclocking monitors after reading all the great results people are having. However, I wonder if I just got a bum display.
> 
> First. anything above 86 gives me pixel corruption. It's like clusters of pixels start to shimmer - it's a very noticeable artifact. 86 seems to work fine, but I was really hoping for more.
> 
> Second, I read somewhere to start high and work backwards. So, I started at 110 and man, that didn't work a bit. Half the display was black and the other half was just vertical lines. After I was able to get my screen back to view-able, there were, and still are, vertical line artifacts. Although, they seem to be diminishing as I type this - I hope I didn't do any permanent damage, I only had this thing for 3 days.
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if someone might be able to shed some light on my situation..
> 
> Here is my rig, all purchased from New Egg -
> 
> i5 4690k
> MSI Z97-Gaming Z97 Motherboard
> 2 x GIGABYTE GTX 970 4GB in SLI - 347.09 Drivers
> EVGA 80 PLUS BRONZE 750W PS
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB
> 
> and of course the monitor
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll Glossy
> 
> I've followed the tutorial to a 'T' - patched the drivers using the full patch since I'm running SLI, and updated the monitor driver with the QNIX driver. Again, I can get to 86, but at 110 the screen was not view able, and at 96/98 I would get pixel corruption.
> 
> Any thought and/or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance for any help!


86Hz gets you pretty much at the 330MHz pixel clock limit for dual-link DVI. The limit is defined as a standard but Nvidia, ToastyX's Nvidia / SLi / AMD / CF pixel clock patchers all lift the pixel clock limit where it is present on the driver-side. The limitation may exist in the graphics card hardware (on current generation graphics cards it does not), on the monitor side (on the Qnix single input it does not, on some True10 variants it seems to), or in a DisplayPort to dual-link DVI active adapter.

Have you tried with and without patchers, SLi on and off, using a different cable, connecting monitor to another port, or skipping the active adapter if you're using one? Are you sure the Qnix is the single input model, and NOT the True10?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emperorr*
> 
> Can anyone confirm they have been able to OC a monitor that uses a displayport adaptor on AMD using CRU?
> 
> I'm starting to feel like I wasted 50$ on the adapter when I could have just bought a multi input monitor and used my DP.
> 
> I'm guessing Nvidia cards dont have htis issue since they can set refresh rates in Nvidia control panel?


With an active DP to DL-DVI adapter, your limitation lies at the adapter side if you have a modern graphics card (GTX600 series and up, HD7000 series and up). It's neither AMD's nor CRU's fault. You haven't wasted money since the single-input model has practically no input lag and a better panel, compared to the True10 which has 2 frames of lag @60Hz and a worse panel.

What is the adapter that you have? One adapter that ToastyX mentions in his forums hits a 400MHz pixel clock which could get you ~104Hz with tightened timings, more than the average overclock that the new Qnix single input monitor panels do.


----------



## fisher6

Is this the right one to buy?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c


----------



## plow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> 86Hz gets you pretty much at the 330MHz pixel clock limit for dual-link DVI. The limit is defined as a standard but Nvidia, ToastyX's Nvidia / SLi / AMD / CF pixel clock patchers all lift the pixel clock limit where it is present on the driver-side. The limitation may exist in the graphics card hardware (on current generation graphics cards it does not), on the monitor side (on the Qnix single input it does not, on some True10 variants it seems to), or in a DisplayPort to dual-link DVI active adapter.
> 
> Have you tried with and without patchers, SLi on and off, using a different cable, connecting monitor to another port, or skipping the active adapter if you're using one? Are you sure the Qnix is the single input model, and NOT the True10?


I ordered an Evolution II and when I look at the side, I have a single DVI port - so I'm guessing I was sent the correct model. When you say 'current generation graphics cards', I have GTX 970s, so I'm assuming those would not have the limitation since they are current generation. I tried with and without the patcher, as well as turning SLI on and off. Nothing made a difference. I'm going to go pick up a new DVI cable and cross my fingers that I see better results.

Oh yeah, also, it seems that only one of the DVI ports is active at the moment. Not sure if that's a setting I can change in the driver, so I have not tried that. When you say skip the active adapter - what do you mean? Oh, just looked it up. Active adapter is HDMI to DVI? No, I'm not using one of those. Should I try one?

Thanks for info! Much appreciated.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Is this the right one to buy?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c


Yes, that's the right one of you want glossy.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plow*
> 
> I ordered an Evolution II and when I look at the side, I have a single DVI port - so I'm guessing I was sent the correct model. When you say 'current generation graphics cards', I have GTX 970s, so I'm assuming those would not have the limitation since they are current generation. I tried with and without the patcher, as well as turning SLI on and off. Nothing made a difference. I'm going to go pick up a new DVI cable and cross my fingers that I see better results.
> 
> Oh yeah, also, it seems that only one of the DVI ports is active at the moment. Not sure if that's a setting I can change in the driver, so I have not tried that. When you say skip the active adapter - what do you mean? Oh, just looked it up. Active adapter is HDMI to DVI? No, I'm not using one of those. Should I try one?
> 
> Thanks for info! Much appreciated.


Dont use any adapters, only straight dual link dvi to dvi cable. http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2
It sounds like you have a week panel to me. Crossing my fingers a new cable fixes it for you.


----------



## rrims

It's been a few weeks since I got my glossy QX2710, and was wondering how you folks clean these things? Mine isn't too bad at the moment, but with a few dust particles and small smudges I'd like to give it a nice shine again. Tips and tricks anyone?


----------



## moustang

I got my Qnix QX2710 for Christmas.

I really wish I could say how happy I am with it, but there is a HORRIBLE amount of light bleed on the display. Two spots on the top, the entire right side, and the bottom right corner which causes some discoloration when there is low ambient light. I haven't bothered to try to overclock it since I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it or not.

I'm debating on going through the massive hassle of sending it back for a replacement and praying the replacement is better or tearing it apart and fixing it myself. If it was from a US manufacturer with an easy RMA process it would be a no-brainer, it would already be boxed up and on it's way back. Anyone with experience on disassembling one of these that can give me any warning on any trouble spots I might run into? Considering the hassle of returning it and then going through the lottery of hoping the next one is better I'm really leaning towards fixing it myself.


----------



## sam0nella

I'm about to make the plunge and get some QX2710s for the new computer I'm building. Is there a difference between these two? I searched through description and they seemed to be the same despite their difference in price. I don't want to order the wrong ones...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c&rmvSB=true&rmvSB=true

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19f4e53c3d


----------



## plow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Dont use any adapters, only straight dual link dvi to dvi cable. http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2
> It sounds like you have a week panel to me. Crossing my fingers a new cable fixes it for you.


So I ran to Radio Shack to get a new DVI-D cable. I know, I know.. super overprice and probably poor quality, but I was curious. The cable is being returned









Anyway, the new 6ft DVI cable from Radio Shack, I believe its called gigaware or something, was even worse! If the connection wasn't just perfect I got no signal at all. After messing with it a bit, I got a signal but no dice. Still experienced the flashing pixels on the left side of the screen. Im stumped. It almost seems like a signal issue and not a monitor issue as it seems that my experience doesn't match with the other's on the forum. Again though, I didn't read all the pages and a search didn't turn up much that matches what I'm seeing. Flashing/shimmering - ish pixels on one side of the screen. It does NOT show up if Im looking at a solid color. But it does show up when I have a picture on my desktop and in game.

Well, I think Im going to fight to get an RMA. I bought it through New Egg from MNW Global. Anyone have experience with them?

Also, any other suggestions I could try? I did go ahead and order a nice cable from monoprice but I'm pretty sure I'm not going to see any different results. Thanks!


----------



## Raven19x

Just ordered a stand from amazon which I'm hoping works well. Also ordered a DVI-D dual link cable from them as well. Can't wait til the monitor comes!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NJ0S1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTWO5B2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Deluxe

Guys you do not need to buy a different dvi cable. How far you can oc is not decided by the cable.


----------



## fisher6

Just ordered one yesterday and got a tracking number this morning for FedEx.


----------



## policiacaro

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I took some pictures of whats going on with my monitor, just to show everyone. Leaving it on for about 5 minutes gets rid of it, like the monitor just shifts all the pixels the way its supposed to be and its normal. The issue happens exactly down the middle on the left side of the monitor. Should I return it? Id rather not just because of overclock I was able to get it, and the no dead pixels. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## AK09

Hi I got my monitor a week ago with one dead pixel which is fine with me
but there is some annoying mark I'm not sure what is it and it's not dirt or dust .
any tips to fix it ?


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK09*
> 
> Hi I got my monitor a week ago with one dead pixel which is fine with me
> but there is some annoying mark I'm not sure what is it and it's not dirt or dust .
> any tips to fix it ?


I have a dead/stuck pixel on the lower right of my monitor and it sort of looks blurry like the one you're inquiring about. It's weird because it's more pronounced on a light grey screen than on a completely white screen or on any other color of that matter.


----------



## policiacaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AK09*
> 
> Hi I got my monitor a week ago with one dead pixel which is fine with me
> but there is some annoying mark I'm not sure what is it and it's not dirt or dust .
> any tips to fix it ?


I have read that some of these korean panels didn't make the grade because of obscure things, like dust getting trapped in between the panels. It is possible that what you have there is exactly that.


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey whats up everyone...just wana give a quick update of the single input model i pucrchased a few months ago,still going strong and still love it as i did when i first got it with no issues...... BUT i did come across something that i find weird so maybe someone here can help me out as it pertains to overclocking so anyone is welcomed to help me out.
Ok,so when i first got this monitor,i had 1 GTX 580 and ended up getting 2 more of these monitors(still using 1 until i upgrade GPU),i then tried the triple monitors but i had to get another GTX 580 due to me not knowing i needed SLI so it was no biggie getting another. When i first got my monitor,i did what the OP says for OC'ing with a 580. i inserted the driver,i then used the full patch as this card requires a full patch,then i would go to Nnvidia panel and change refresh rate. I successfully got to 96Hz no problem but anything above 110 would give me those green artifacts. So i went back to 96 for a few months.
So today i decided to play with it again,but this time i have 2 GTX 580s this time,so i went straight to Nvidia Panel to see if it would still give me those artifacts at 120,and surprisingly it DIDNT give me any artifacts. BUT i do notice ever 5 or so seconds the mouse would freeze and go back a few moments later and if i try reverting to a lower refresh rate OR even turn off/on the PC it will take forever to give me a picture on screen and would stay blank for about a solid minute before giving me signal. When i uninstall the qnix driver it works normal again.
So can anyone try helping me out?


----------



## dummy12

Does anyone know which string of numbers on the back of the panel is the serial number?


----------



## co11ider

Has anyone from India bought this monitor? If yes, please reply on how it was shipped and how much customs duty you had to pay.


----------



## plow

Hi all, I initiated the RMA process with MNW Global, so hopefully that goes well. I'll post back either way - hopefully to say they are great to work with. Anyway, here are some pictures of what I'm seeing. This is at 105 Refresh rate, but the same effect shows itself even at 87 - just not as bad. One thing that is strange, I started gaming on this thing, at 85 - that's as high as I can go with zero artifacts - and when I was done gaming, I went back to messing with OCing the monitor. To my surprise, the amount of artifacts greatly diminished and even went away completely for a few minutes. Only to return. Again strange and I'm not sure what's going on. Anyway, see the pics below. Do they look like typical for reaching OC limits or something else. For some reason, maybe wishful thinking, I feel like its a signal issue and not the limitation of the monitor. Ehhh, who knows. Again, any input is appreciated.


----------



## Warsteiner

That is a nice background! Mind sharing?


----------



## policiacaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrims*
> 
> It's been a few weeks since I got my glossy QX2710, and was wondering how you folks clean these things? Mine isn't too bad at the moment, but with a few dust particles and small smudges I'd like to give it a nice shine again. Tips and tricks anyone?


I use water and a microfiber cloth. Just get the cloth damp, just a bit wit, and wipe away.

CNET has a good article on cleaning screens for tv's, I just applied it to monitors.

LINK:
http://www.cnet.com/how-to/how-to-clean-a-tv-screen/


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dummy12*
> 
> Does anyone know which string of numbers on the back of the panel is the serial number?


Not sure but maybe this (inside red circle):


----------



## HeavyUser

Perfect Pixel for only 320, looks legit? This is a single input model right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimate-Perfect-Pixel-Glossy-27-QNIX-QX2710-Evo-ll-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-/261642022538?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item3ceb146e8a


----------



## tybug099

Hey all. I'm completely new to the whole overclocking monitor thing so I'm sure I did it wrong somewhere. I've tried to do a little research with little to no luck on turning anything up myself so I thought I'd come here to get some help on it. I've got a sapphire r9 290x tri-x card and an i5 running at 3.4 GHz. I've noticed the monitor can't handle 120 hz (I start to get lines running across the screen) and I was fine with that so I bumped it down to 110 hz, which worked fine. But the problem is anything I try gives me micro stutters, even at 96. Any suggestions? I ran the patch for AMD cards and I used the CRU to set the refresh rate


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tybug099*
> 
> Hey all. I'm completely new to the whole overclocking monitor thing so I'm sure I did it wrong somewhere. I've tried to do a little research with little to no luck on turning anything up myself so I thought I'd come here to get some help on it. I've got a sapphire r9 290x tri-x card and an i5 running at 3.4 GHz. I've noticed the monitor can't handle 120 hz (I start to get lines running across the screen) and I was fine with that so I bumped it down to 110 hz, which worked fine. But the problem is anything I try gives me micro stutters, even at 96. Any suggestions? I ran the patch for AMD cards and I used the CRU to set the refresh rate


Do you have the Multi True 10 version of the monitor? Those won't overclock past 85Hz


----------



## tybug099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Do you have the Multi True 10 version of the monitor? Those won't overclock past 85Hz


Nope. At least I'm pretty sure I don't. It's this one here


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tybug099*
> 
> Nope. At least I'm pretty sure I don't. It's this one here


"Dual Link DVI"

There you go. That's the culprit. Your monitor has to be single input in order to support overclocking


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> "Dual Link DVI"
> 
> There you go. That's the culprit. Your monitor has to be single input in order to support overclocking


Dual link DVI doesn't mean it is muli-input, all the monitors are dual-link DVI. That's still the single input monitor.


----------



## tybug099

Yeah. I was under the impression that it's the single input monitor that can overclock to 120 where the dual input ones could not. That's why I got the single input one.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tybug099*
> 
> Yeah. I was under the impression that it's the single input monitor that can overclock to 120 where the dual input ones could not. That's why I got the single input one.


That can, although not all of them can do 120. Pretty much all of them can do 96 though. You may be having some kind of issue with your video card, instead of the monitor.


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beppeboh*
> 
> There you go. That's the culprit. Your monitor has to be single input in order to support overclocking


so confident yet so amazingly wrong. dual dvi is a variation on the dvi cable standard.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zombiefly*
> 
> so confident yet so amazingly wrong. dual dvi is a variation on the dvi cable standard.


I laughed when I saw what he had posted. Thinks Dual Link DVI means 2 inputs lol.

Anyway, I'd say just shoot for 96 Hertz, I have the True 10 Model with 2 inputs so i'm only able to OC to 85 hertz and I Must say that my games run SMOOOOOOTH!! I'm loving it.


----------



## wouterr5

Does anyone know what's exactly all on top of the panel? I'm looking to buy this second-hand Qnix for a bit cheaper than regular because it has a superficial scratch. Now I'm thinking, maybe there's some kind of top layer to remove? Picture included. All help appreciated!


----------



## tybug099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> That can, although not all of them can do 120. Pretty much all of them can do 96 though. You may be having some kind of issue with your video card, instead of the monitor.


Well. I'm hoping it's not. I've had enough trouble with this thing from the day I put together the trouble. I've tried increasing the power through my CCC but it didn't seem to do anything. I guess I'll hit the internet to see if anyone has solutions for that aspect of it.


----------



## emperorr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> What is the adapter that you have? One adapter that ToastyX mentions in his forums hits a 400MHz pixel clock which could get you ~104Hz with tightened timings


Hello, thank you for your response!

I have the Dell adapter that a lot of people here seem to recommend. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XYBA72/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this one)

I agree the adapter shouldn't prevent or limit OC, but in my case it seems to completely break CRU. I apply the OC I want on everything that shows in CRU, but upon reloading to check, it does not actually show in my monitor's settings. CRU works normal on my other monitors. I even moved the adaptor to one of the monitors that I already applied OC to, and then that monitor will only show 60hz in my options.

I am wondering does CRU not work with adapters? Has everyone who has OC'd monitors using adapter have nvidia and thus don't need CRU?

I'd love to hear from someone using CRU on a DLDVI adapter, to confirm if it's possible, because as it stands I'm starting to think not. My GPU is only a couple months old I'd really really hate having to buy a new GPU to get this OC to work.


----------



## nau53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wouterr5*
> 
> Does anyone know what's exactly all on top of the panel? I'm looking to buy this second-hand Qnix for a bit cheaper than regular because it has a superficial scratch. Now I'm thinking, maybe there's some kind of top layer to remove? Picture included. All help appreciated!


That is polarized film. My daughther has scratched my 2730mdp, so I tooks this film off to see if LCD is ok. Asked one supplier if they can provide me with a film, it is cheap, however applying will be not that easy.


----------



## nau53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dummy12*
> 
> Does anyone know which string of numbers on the back of the panel is the serial number?


It is LM270WQ1, just like in iMac 27. Mine 2730mdp have SD A2 revision. Your could be different.


----------



## eagle2990

Sorry to bother you, this is the first time i get a monitor that can actually overclock, but I realized that when I go over 110Hz it shows some vertical divitions (2 when it's at 120Hz), not like it's not capable it's like some colors on the left side of the panel looks blurry/gray-ish (kind of like a big pixel)...is there any way to solve this? This only happens with some colours more likely dark blue.
I'm using an ASUS reference gtx980


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eagle2990*
> 
> Sorry to bother you, this is the first time i get a monitor that can actually overclock, but I realized that when I go over 110Hz it shows some vertical divitions (2 when it's at 120Hz), not like it's not capable it's like some colors on the left side of the panel looks blurry/gray-ish (kind of like a big pixel)...is there any way to solve this? This only happens with some colours more likely dark blue.
> I'm using an ASUS reference gtx980


If it goes away when you decrease the frequency, it's not stable @110Hz. I get a thick purple vertical line that becomes obvious around 105-110Hz as well, so I keep it at 96Hz


----------



## zombiefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eagle2990*
> 
> Sorry to bother you, this is the first time i get a monitor that can actually overclock, but I realized that when I go over 110Hz it shows some vertical divitions (2 when it's at 120Hz), not like it's not capable it's like some colors on the left side of the panel looks blurry/gray-ish (kind of like a big pixel)...is there any way to solve this? This only happens with some colours more likely dark blue.
> I'm using an ASUS reference gtx980


Same here, 96 works fine though


----------



## porky

Hi guys,

Where can I buy this screen?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porky*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Where can I buy this screen?


Ebay


----------



## eagle2990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> If it goes away when you decrease the frequency, it's not stable @110Hz. I get a thick purple vertical line that becomes obvious around 105-110Hz as well, so I keep it at 96Hz


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zombiefly*
> 
> Same here, 96 works fine though


Thank you







I was so excited because it could reach 120Hz and now the deception because it actually can't







.
One question, does this has anything to do with the graphic card? Probably I shouldn't believe the seller, but according to him it depends on the GPU.


----------



## porky

Can I use a Display port to DVI-D converter is i want to run surround???


----------



## Shadowarez

What do you guys think of this monitor Xstar 27


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eagle2990*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was so excited because it could reach 120Hz and now the *deception* because it actually can't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> One question, does this has anything to do with the graphic card? Probably I shouldn't believe the seller, but according to him it depends on the GPU.


Who exactly deceived you, the seller?

In the very first post here it says that 120hz is not guaranteed.
Quote:


> Q: Can I buy a monitor that will OC to 120 Hz, guaranteed?
> A: No, not as far as I know. There are theories that monitors sold by certain sellers have a better chance to OC higher, but it is considered to be random.


That is taken straight from the FAQ in the very first post.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *porky*
> 
> Can I use a Display port to DVI-D converter is i want to run surround???


Yes. Search through the forum to find some options.


----------



## Phantatsy

Gaizzz I finally got my QNIX working again after that stupid black screen!!!








It was like when I first upgraded again. I hate 1080p. :|

}SkOrPn--' Do you still need the cables? I have the two video cables now. Though they don't work since that was my issue.


----------



## APhamX

I was able to overclock my QNIX monitor, stable at 110hz. It says stable at 120hz but I started getting some weird brown/distorted flash every once in awhile. What I noticed was that, whenever I watched a gif or a youtube video, the video would start out dark and distorted, at 96hz or 110hz, When I switched back to 60hz it was fine. I have the powercolor pcs 7950. Has anyone had similar problems?


----------



## Shadowarez

Only have issues since mines a multi true 10 can't Oc past 60 not stable at all. So it's going back if i can send it back. With all the bleeding and dead pixels.


----------



## morecowbell

Hey guys, my first post here... been following this thread for a while.

I just bought a glossy QX2710 from green-sum because the matte version was way more expensive (probably b.c they are harder to find now?) I kind of want to dual screen and found a local seller selling his used MATTE version for cheap... any thoughts if a dual-screen glossy/matte combo would look stupid/distracting? Wondering if anyone has actually tried this


----------



## Haas360

Hey guys, I just had ANOTHER power brick go out. What bricks can we go? Can a best buy universal adapter work (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketfish-slim-universal-ac-power-adapter/4382768.p?id=1218476969972&skuId=4382768)

My wife works for bestbuy, so I get huge discounts so im focusing there instead of ebay.

Thanks guys, I checked OP and didnt see info regarding. And I know its been talked about in this 234203482394 page forum.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Hey guys, I just had ANOTHER power brick go out. What bricks can we go? Can a best buy universal adapter work (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketfish-slim-universal-ac-power-adapter/4382768.p?id=1218476969972&skuId=4382768)
> 
> My wife works for bestbuy, so I get huge discounts so im focusing there instead of ebay.
> 
> Thanks guys, I checked OP and didnt see info regarding. And I know its been talked about in this 234203482394 page forum.


If the power brick outputs 12V, you could power the Qnix out of a Molex PSU connector.


----------



## SmackHisFace

Hi guys Ive had my Qnix for about 6 months now and Im just noticing a stuck red pixel. I thought I had thoroughly checked my monitor for dead pixels when I got it so I think the pixel became stuck recently. Does anyone know of a good way to fix it? Ive attempted to rub it with a Q-tip and Ive tried one of those 2 hour YouTube videos that flashes a bunch of colors but the pixel is still stuck Red. Does anyone have any other ideas of what I can do? Its not a big deal but its just bothering me now that Ive seen it. Thanks guys.


----------



## ZackH88

Hey guys, been looking to join the club and have been reading through the thread on what to look for/avoid, but just wanted to double check before I pull the trigger. Is this what I want? It's the PLS panel, single input version, and no mention of it being SE. Am i missing anything?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZackH88*
> 
> Hey guys, been looking to join the club and have been reading through the thread on what to look for/avoid, but just wanted to double check before I pull the trigger. Is this what I want? It's the PLS panel, single input version, and no mention of it being SE. Am i missing anything?


Yes, and enjoy it, it's amazing.

The only real downside is IPS/PLS glow.

I haven't looked at this thread in months, I love the single input Qnix so much I'm considering getting a second one.


----------



## ModestMoose

I can't seem to find a matte overclockable QNIX/X-star around 300 because they seem to be increasing in price..
Which of these two should I get or would you advise a different one? If so could I get a link please?
This QNIX
Vs
This X-star


----------



## thrgk

Anyone have their power cord go to their monitor? my seems to be on and off.Like where the box is, not where you can plug in but where its already permanently plugged in. Can I get a replacement one?


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Hey guys, I just had ANOTHER power brick go out. What bricks can we go? Can a best buy universal adapter work (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketfish-slim-universal-ac-power-adapter/4382768.p?id=1218476969972&skuId=4382768)
> 
> My wife works for bestbuy, so I get huge discounts so im focusing there instead of ebay.
> 
> Thanks guys, I checked OP and didnt see info regarding. And I know its been talked about in this 234203482394 page forum.


So I got that adapter, and it has a bit that fits.

But it says 19volts will it draw 12 volts as required ? My monitor turns on, but I dont want to fry it. Will it be ok?>


----------



## gobblebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModestMoose*
> 
> I can't seem to find a matte overclockable QNIX/X-star around 300 because they seem to be increasing in price..
> Which of these two should I get or would you advise a different one? If so could I get a link please?
> This QNIX
> Vs
> This X-star


Glossy has a better picture, but I've been hearing that these are actually matte, but this is the monitor you want (Evo II): http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-Glossy/dp/B00OCTOJVG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420533339&sr=8-3&keywords=qnix+qx2710+evolution+ii

Also, I tried 4 different DL DVI Cables (Including the one shipped with the monitor) and I couldn't hit 120Hz w/ any of them w/o artifacting... until I bought this one, so make sure you get it! : http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ0S1W/ref=pd_sim_pc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=10M92GVCPRKZDT2F54V1


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> So I got that adapter, and it has a bit that fits.
> 
> But it says 19volts will it draw 12 volts as required ? My monitor turns on, but I dont want to fry it. Will it be ok?>


I would not use a 19 volt adaptor for 12 volt monitors. The adaptor will put out 19 volts, which is too much in my opinion.


----------



## thrgk

Would this be a good replacement for a power cord ? It's 12v.http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0023Y9EQC/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=51eoNRxfVwL


----------



## timaishu

Got my HP zr22 stand today and I don't really like it as its not strong enough to hold up the screen. It falls to the halfway mark which is still to low for me. Im gonna return it and probably get the ugly monoprice stand found in the op. Darn


----------



## moonkikang

Hello all...!

Hoping to get a bit of assistance:
Would this monitor (QX2710 Evolution II Matte) work with a Samsung Series 7 Laptop with a AMD Radeon HD 6750M?

Thanks..!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonkikang*
> 
> Hello all...!
> 
> Hoping to get a bit of assistance:
> Would this monitor (QX2710 Evolution II Matte) work with a Samsung Series 7 Laptop with a AMD Radeon HD 6750M?
> 
> Thanks..!


Only if you get the muti-input version.


----------



## N3RORE

Hello again guys, a fast question.
I'm using the color profile from windows 7 for manage the color profile of my Qnix QX2710 PLS at 96 Hz and not color sustainer, is necessary use color sustainer or not? I'm not finding difference, just only that one program less to load.


----------



## Forceman

Color sustainer is used because Windows will often (always?) lose the color profile when you switch modes. So if you run a game, you'll lose the color profile unless you have color sustainer running to put it back.


----------



## blaze0079

What's the difference between the QX2710 LED Evolution II SE and QX2710 LED Evolution II.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Color sustainer is used because Windows will often (always?) lose the color profile when you switch modes. So if you run a game, you'll lose the color profile unless you have color sustainer running to put it back.


Many thanks for the reply, I did a quick test with FC4 @ 96 Hz:

This picture is only with the profile loaded from W7 color settings


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






This is without any color profile:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






and this is only with color sustainer:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Sound is good?
Sorry for the poor quality, I think in my case (I've tested only FC4) the color profile is not lost using only W7 color settings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze0079*
> 
> What's the difference between the QX2710 LED Evolution II SE and QX2710 LED Evolution II.


"SE" means "Second Edition" and following last news are monitor with less quality control respect before.


----------



## QuantumPion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> Hey guys, I just had ANOTHER power brick go out. What bricks can we go? Can a best buy universal adapter work (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketfish-slim-universal-ac-power-adapter/4382768.p?id=1218476969972&skuId=4382768)
> 
> My wife works for bestbuy, so I get huge discounts so im focusing there instead of ebay.
> 
> Thanks guys, I checked OP and didnt see info regarding. And I know its been talked about in this 234203482394 page forum.


I used this one as a replacement and it works perfectly. Only $8.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0023Y9EQC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## thrgk

isnt qnix use 3 prongs that is only 2


----------



## QuantumPion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Would this be a good replacement for a power cord ? It's 12v.http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0023Y9EQC/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=51eoNRxfVwL


Yes that is the same one I bought about a year ago.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> isnt qnix use 3 prongs that is only 2


It comes with a 3 prong AC cord if that is what you mean. Which is better than the ungrounded 2-prong adapter that came with my QNIX originally.


----------



## vedranius

Hi all!

Are there any news in 2015. about new monitors that might come out on the place of QNIX and XSTAR in Korean market?

Better question, should I wait for something, or is there any better monitor in this price range as QNIX, or should I go and finally buy it?









Thanks!









EDIT: Should I go for YAMAKASI DS270 IPS SE as better option instead of QNIX?
Is there any topic about other Korean monitors, described with their options, quality and such? Thank you!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Many thanks for the reply, I did a quick test with FC4 @ 96 Hz:
> 
> This picture is only with the profile loaded from W7 color settings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is without any color profile:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this is only with color sustainer:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sound is good?
> Sorry for the poor quality, I think in my case (I've tested only FC4) the color profile is not lost using only W7 color settings.


http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?p=4775334


----------



## buckrogers1

I'm putting together a system for someone with two Qnix 27" monitors who at most will use Photoshop, but never play games. From reading through this thread and elsewhere, I haven't found many people driving two or more of these who weren't worried about performance, so I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about this. It seems like it might be best to use a single card with dual DVI-D outs, but I'm not sure whether I could just use onboard graphics to drive one and eliminate the need for a card with two ports. I also want to avoid having to deal with some kind of active adapter.

I'd found that some GT 720's have dual DVI-D, which are not overly expensive, but I don't want to waste money on it if I don't need to. If anyone has experience with this kind of setup I would appreciate hearing what worked or what didn't. This is the motherboard I'm planning to use w/an i5/4590 if that helps.

Thanks


----------



## joeh4384

You just need a card or a dual link dvi and a display port and then you can get an active display port to dvi d adapter.


----------



## buckrogers1

Thank you, but as I mentioned, I don't want to get into using active adapters


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buckrogers1*
> 
> I'm putting together a system for someone with two Qnix 27" monitors who at most will use Photoshop, but never play games. From reading through this thread and elsewhere, I haven't found many people driving two or more of these who weren't worried about performance, so I'm trying to figure out the best way to go about this. It seems like it might be best to use a single card with dual DVI-D outs, but I'm not sure whether I could just use onboard graphics to drive one and eliminate the need for a card with two ports. I also want to avoid having to deal with some kind of active adapter.
> 
> I'd found that some GT 720's have dual DVI-D, which are not overly expensive, but I don't want to waste money on it if I don't need to. If anyone has experience with this kind of setup I would appreciate hearing what worked or what didn't. This is the motherboard I'm planning to use w/an i5/4590 if that helps.
> 
> Thanks


I'm not familiar with the actual computer MB/CPU, so I can't say for sure, but it looks like if you get the multi-input model of the QNIX 2710, it should work. The motherboard and cpu specs say they can support up to 3 monitors, though I haven't found and definitive specs for what resolutions they support.

You're not going to be able to use two of the DVI only models without using the adaptor you said you don't want to mess with. This means you won't be able to overclock.

If you need to be able to overclock the monitors, getting a dedicated video card with two DVI outputs is your only option.


----------



## buckrogers1

Ok, thanks for confirming all that. Any benefit to overclocking for productivity/photoshop/YouTube purposes?


----------



## Raven19x

I ordered from dream-seller on Dec 26 and still haven't received any info about my monitor even being shipped out... Not a good start to this whole Korean thing.


----------



## incognito973

Hello, does anyone know if the matte filter on the qnix is removable? I would like to debezel my glossy qnix but it doesn't have a metal bezel on the inside..


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buckrogers1*
> 
> Ok, thanks for confirming all that. Any benefit to overclocking for productivity/photoshop/YouTube purposes?


In my opinion no, but I'm sure someone will disagree with me.


----------



## fisher6

Just got mine yesterday after it was kept by FedEx for 3 days because it was "not due for delivery". No bleeding noticeable. The image quality is stellar compared to my old 3 year old benQ. I will try to overclock tonight after work. Can't beleive you get this kinda stuff for just 319 USD.


----------



## niceuser

Has anyone been able to overclock while running in DSR mode?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niceuser*
> 
> Has anyone been able to overclock while running in DSR mode?


You are limited to 60 hz.


----------



## Dry Bonez

OK, i just noticed something as i was trying something out with my monitor (single input). Ok,so i have 2x GTX 580s and currently have them disabled because i just found out the ONLY way for me to reach @110HZ is to have it disabled. Which sucks because if i want extra power from my GPU i cant have them enabled AND run @110hz because it will give me graphical problems,extremely slow and mouse pointer freezes constantly and frequently. But when i go to Nvidia control panel and disable SLI and re-run it @110,it will work as if nothing happened.
Can anyone try this method and report back?


----------



## Marley217

Guys, I need your help once again.

I think my Qnix QX2710LED just died. I've had it overclocked at 120hz for about a year I think, and after glitching for a minute it just stopped working completely.

If I insert the power cable when it is turned on, it will try to flash those three colors and the greyscale, but they look, well, glitched.
The pc won't detect it all btw.

Any tips/advice would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT I've tried different ports on my GPU, both did not work with the qnix, yet both work fine with the samsung.


----------



## niceuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> You are limited to 60 hz.


VSR is AMD though, is it the same for DSR? I don't understand why wouldn't you be able to overclock as the scaling is done all by the graphics card and the monitor is still running at native resolution...


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niceuser*
> 
> VSR is AMD though, is it the same for DSR? I don't understand why wouldn't you be able to overclock as the scaling is done all by the graphics card and the monitor is still running at native resolution...


I think you *can* do it with Nvidia because it is a software technique and not hardware like AMD. Not sure though I could be wrong, I just know you cant do it with AMD.


----------



## Sploosh

Just got mine today. Certainly a large screen, wow.

No dead pixels, but the panel is loose inside the monitor and there is very large amount of backlight bleed coming from the lower left and right hand corners.

And when I unscrew the screw in the bottom of the monitor to attach the stand base to the monitor, it will not insert properly. Right now my monitor is just resting in the base and tilting to the side.

I suppose I'll have to try the electrical tape mod and hope for the best, but I was not expecting such a large amount of bleed. Makes my old 1080p monitor look good in comparison.

Crappy cell phone picture:


----------



## Nicholars

Thinking of getting one of the QNIX or XSTAR 2710, who is the best ebay seller for these with least chance of backlight bleed etc? Thanks


----------



## kidxcore

Hey guys, just posted this video - 



Wondering if anyone has encountered this problem. Basically, when hitting the power off and on button on the monitor, the whole screen goes white. the only fix is to physically switch off and on the main power switch.
This happens when the computer wakes up from sleep too. This is getting a little annoying. Any ideas to fix this anyone?

Background info:
Just got this monitor a couple of days ago. This is the single DVI input panel. No dead pixels. Slight backlight bleeding on the bottom left of the panel. Haven't tried overclocking yet.

Windows 8.1
GTX 660 SLI
i5 3570k @ 4.2


----------



## Alxz

I just bought my qnix few days ago and it seems that it will arrive at monday, i bought an off-grade panel so i'm expecting some backlight bleed and dead pixels YOLO.

But just to know, how many of you have experiences with those off-grade panels?
I'm also reporting how much i'll have to pay for customs in Mexico


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> OK, i just noticed something as i was trying something out with my monitor (single input). Ok,so i have 2x GTX 580s and currently have them disabled because i just found out the ONLY way for me to reach @110HZ is to have it disabled. Which sucks because if i want extra power from my GPU i cant have them enabled AND run @110hz because it will give me graphical problems,extremely slow and mouse pointer freezes constantly and frequently. But when i go to Nvidia control panel and disable SLI and re-run it @110,it will work as if nothing happened.
> Can anyone try this method and report back?


I believe toastyx made a Nvidia pixel click patch that addresses this.


----------



## tymann23

New guy here folks. Quick question, I'm upgrading to 2560x1440p and am really interested in these Korean IPS/PLS panels. I had a question though, does anyone here have any experience with the Off-grade variants of the Qnix Evolution II? They have some Matte finish Qnix ones that are Off-grade for really super cheap. But i'm not sure how bad of shape the panel would show up in?

I can handle a dead pixel or two and maybe some light bleed, but obviosly no deep scratches or major discoloration of the screen. So basically, just looking for your guys two cents on the matter. If it's not a good idea, could you guys maybe direct me to the best place to go? And yea, I really want one with a Matte finish, because I really don't like high gloss, and I hear they put a really nice light coating of Matte Anti glare on the panels, so that would be nice. Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## Dry Bonez

No way! please elaborate on this.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> New guy here folks. Quick question, I'm upgrading to 2560x1440p and am really interested in these Korean IPS/PLS panels. I had a question though, does anyone here have any experience with the Off-grade variants of the Qnix Evolution II? They have some Matte finish Qnix ones that are Off-grade for really super cheap. But i'm not sure how bad of shape the panel would show up in?
> 
> I can handle a dead pixel or two and maybe some light bleed, but obviosly no deep scratches or major discoloration of the screen. So basically, just looking for your guys two cents on the matter. If it's not a good idea, could you guys maybe direct me to the best place to go? And yea, I really want one with a Matte finish, because I really don't like high gloss, and I hear they put a really nice light coating of Matte Anti glare on the panels, so that would be nice. Thanks in advance guys.


if nobody answer you in the incoming week, i'll be getting my off.grade probably tomorrow or tuesday so i can share my experience


----------



## emsj86

So I want to buy one of these monitors. A few questions. One if I remove the orginal stand and steam can I mount it to my Asus 144hz versa monitor stand? Will I be able to play battlefield 4 without going below 60fpa on mix high med settings aa off using a 780 oc to. 1250? Is this good for gaming? Who/where is the best person to buy from. I rather a dead pixel or two over bleeding. Thank you. My specs. I7 4790k 4.8 780 at 1250


----------



## emsj86

Looks as if I can use my Asus vqe248e 144hz monitor stand which I love. Or is there a stand I can get that height can be adjusted on the fly


----------



## RB Snake

I bought one of these monitors ages ago when they first started to pop up, but it developed a fault very soon after and I never got around to fixing it lol. It has a faulty PCB, it it possible to purchase replacement PCBs? Has anyone managed to get one? I never fixed it because my Catleap is still going strong.


----------



## viper2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper2005*
> 
> When I turn on the xstar I get a bright red and green light for a split second. After some time the screen flickers not much but enough to fatigue me.
> 
> Question
> 
> Is there something I can do about this (power board, wiring, etc?)
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper2005*
> 
> the first pic is with the brightness turned down and the second with the brightness turned all the way up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards


hi again

I managed to open the monitor and got some pics. Can somebody tell if there is something wrong with the board because i obviously don't know anything about electronics


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Thanks


----------



## caenlen

So I have two X-Star Monitors now, can I overclocked both of them or just one while the other stays at 60hz? I plan to use one monitor for netflix while I game on the other. Never done the overclocking on a multi-monitor setup before, is it even possible?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> So I have two X-Star Monitors now, can I overclocked both of them or just one while the other stays at 60hz? I plan to use one monitor for netflix while I game on the other. Never done the overclocking on a multi-monitor setup before, is it even possible?


You are running AMD graphics, so I'm not sure. On nvidia, you can over clock them individually. I have 3, and have had two at 120 and one at 110 (its highest stable frequency). I usually run with all three at 96Hz.


----------



## blaze0079

Do squaretrade warranty still cover these monitors?


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> So I have two X-Star Monitors now, can I overclocked both of them or just one while the other stays at 60hz? I plan to use one monitor for netflix while I game on the other. Never done the overclocking on a multi-monitor setup before, is it even possible?


I used this & it works.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I used this & it works.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


Just the default all in one package he has? Is that what you a referring to?


----------



## tymann23

Has anyone seen NCX's latest video review on the Qnix QX2710? He actually stated he doesn't recommend it anymore because it uses PWM dimming technology at a low frequency, and said it now uses a different Samsung PLS panel with colors that aren't as good? I wonder if this is the case for all of them, cause I really want on of the Qnix/X-star panels. I just need a good WQHD IPS/PLS panel with very solid colors, decent latency and response time. Seems to be very difficult to find right now, anyone know where to find one?


----------



## kidxcore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidxcore*
> 
> Hey guys, just posted this video -
> 
> 
> 
> Wondering if anyone has encountered this problem. Basically, when hitting the power off and on button on the monitor, the whole screen goes white. the only fix is to physically switch off and on the main power switch.
> This happens when the computer wakes up from sleep too. This is getting a little annoying. Any ideas to fix this anyone?
> 
> Background info:
> Just got this monitor a couple of days ago. This is the single DVI input panel. No dead pixels. Slight backlight bleeding on the bottom left of the panel. Haven't tried overclocking yet.
> 
> Windows 8.1
> GTX 660 SLI
> i5 3570k @ 4.2


hey guys, anyone know how to fix this?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> Has anyone seen NCX's latest video review on the Qnix QX2710? He actually stated he doesn't recommend it anymore because it uses PWM dimming technology at a low frequency, and said it now uses a different Samsung PLS panel with colors that aren't as good? I wonder if this is the case for all of them, cause I really want on of the Qnix/X-star panels. I just need a good WQHD IPS/PLS panel with very solid colors, decent latency and response time. Seems to be very difficult to find right now, anyone know where to find one?


Thats correct. All the new 2710s have decreased color and PWM flickering. Its pretty hard to find the previous model. Im thinking about moving to 4k.


----------



## fladrin

I got my xstar dp2710LED today, I updated my monitor drivers, went into NVCP and created a custom profile set to 96hz.

1.png 213k .png file


It shows up here, as well as in NVCP under my custom profiles list, along with a 110hz test profile that I deleted, but is still being displayed.

2.png 237k .png file


When I run the UFO test it says my refresh rate is 60hz...

If I could get some insight into what I'm doing wrong that would be great.

Thanks.

edit: test results are displayed properly now. aero wasnt on.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidxcore*
> 
> hey guys, anyone know how to fix this?


Weird. Does the monitor go to sleep by itself during Window's sleep mode? Or turns white then also?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fladrin*
> 
> I got my xstar dp2710LED today, I updated my monitor drivers, went into NVCP and created a custom profile set to 96hz.
> 
> 1.png 213k .png file
> 
> 
> It shows up here, as well as in NVCP under my custom profiles list, along with a 110hz test profile that I deleted, but is still being displayed.
> 
> 2.png 237k .png file
> 
> 
> When I run the UFO test it says my refresh rate is 60hz...
> 
> If I could get some insight into what I'm doing wrong that would be great.
> 
> Thanks.


It's possible that the monitor could be skipping frames, some of the 2710s do that. Do you have the single dvi input model?

If you don't notice the monitor getting darker when you overclock from 60 to 110hz then it's not overclocking correctly no matter what NVCP1 states.


----------



## kidxcore

the monitor falls asleep as per normal when entering sleep mode. but when it wakes up (when i hit the space bar or whatever), the whole screen becomes white again. and i'll need to turn off and on the main power switch.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Weird. Does the monitor go to sleep by itself during Window's sleep mode? Or turns white then also?


----------



## fladrin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> It's possible that the monitor could be skipping frames, some of the 2710s do that. Do you have the single dvi input model?
> 
> If you don't notice the monitor getting darker when you overclock from 60 to 110hz then it's not overclocking correctly no matter what NVCP1 states.


Under my screen resolution it lists monitor 1 as dual dvi. I have this monitor, under the asusmption that it was the correct one.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Is this not the correct monitor or might I be experiencing some other issues?

The monitor is not gettting any darker from 60 - 110.

Maybe I should delete and re-install my nvidia drivers?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kidxcore*
> 
> the monitor falls asleep as per normal when entering sleep mode. but when it wakes up (when i hit the space bar or whatever), the whole screen becomes white again. and i'll need to turn off and on the main power switch.


Not sure, haven't seen that before. But here is a similar problem, but black screen, may get some tips. http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2328004/black-screen-waking-sleep-windows.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fladrin*
> 
> Under my screen resolution it lists monitor 1 as dual dvi. I have this monitor, under the asusmption that it was the correct one.
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> Is this not the correct monitor or might I be experiencing some other issues?
> 
> The monitor is not gettting any darker from 60 - 110.
> 
> Maybe I should delete and re-install my nvidia drivers?


Yes that is the correct one. Yes reinstall clean drivers would be my first step.


----------



## Nicholars

What do you do if you get one of these and it has p**s poor backlight bleed? That is whats putting me off buying one... Would be almost impossible to return to korea... Shame they don't sell these monitors at places like Amazon, ebuyer etc.


----------



## hardiboy

First sorry for my bad grammar









I am thinking to buy one of qnix evo ii
And i was told that it only have dvi-d as it input

The problem is
My graphic card 7970 lightning be
Only has single link dvi
And mini display port

And only mini dp support 1440p
Will it cause a problem if i use conector?
From dvi to mini dp


----------



## hardiboy

Doble post
How do i delete this post


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hardiboy*
> 
> First sorry for my bad grammar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking to buy one of qnix evo ii
> And i was told that it only have dvi-d as it input
> 
> The problem is
> My graphic card 7970 lightning be
> Only has single link dvi
> And mini display port
> 
> And only mini dp support 1440p
> Will it cause a problem if i use conector?
> From dvi to mini dp


You can use a mini DP to DVI, but you won't be able to overclock much. You can search this thread, there was a discussion about OCing with a DP adaptor. I don't remember now what the results were, but I think it was about 85Hz.


----------



## Raven19x

I finally got my monitor and got it setup. First thing I noticed is NO dead pixels (lucky me). I have it stable at 96Hz and have a custom ICC file loaded up, images look BEAUTIFUL so far. I havn't tested it out with games yet. There is a noticeable amount of backlight bleed on the bottom right corner but it doesn't bother me too much to fix it (not yet at least). The stand is pretty crappy but I expected that. I'm just glad it's not crooked at least.

Overall, this monitor is a complete steal for the $300 I paid for. Very happy and I think I can wait out until a much better monitor that's reasonably priced comes out. Now to find wallpapers!


----------



## hardiboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> You can use a mini DP to DVI, but you won't be able to overclock much. You can search this thread, there was a discussion about OCing with a DP adaptor. I don't remember now what the results were, but I think it was about 85Hz.


i read from other resource and it say that i have to use active adaptor in order to get 1440p display
omg and it's really hard to find active adapter in my country.... and it costs to much

omg msi 7970 lightning why dont you insert the converter inside the box haha


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hardiboy*
> 
> i read from other resource and it say that i have to use active adaptor in order to get 1440p display
> omg and it's really hard to find active adapter in my country.... and it costs to much
> 
> omg msi 7970 lightning why dont you insert the converter inside the box haha


This is true, it has to be a powered adaptor that has the required bandwidth. Unfortunately, some of the cheaper ones don't work. Someone did find a cheaper one that worked on ebay.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> New guy here folks. Quick question, I'm upgrading to 2560x1440p and am really interested in these Korean IPS/PLS panels. I had a question though, does anyone here have any experience with the Off-grade variants of the Qnix Evolution II? They have some Matte finish Qnix ones that are Off-grade for really super cheap. But i'm not sure how bad of shape the panel would show up in?
> 
> I can handle a dead pixel or two and maybe some light bleed, but obviosly no deep scratches or major discoloration of the screen. So basically, just looking for your guys two cents on the matter. If it's not a good idea, could you guys maybe direct me to the best place to go? And yea, I really want one with a Matte finish, because I really don't like high gloss, and I hear they put a really nice light coating of Matte Anti glare on the panels, so that would be nice. Thanks in advance guys.


Just got my Off-Grade today.

I'm impressed, not a single dead pixel, no backlight bleeding. I'm SO happy with my purchase with accesorieswhole


----------



## vedranius

As NCX stated that new versions of QNIX 2710 monitors have PWM and not that good contrast, would you still recommend buying it for photography, video editing and some FPS gaming, or?
Thanks!


----------



## m0bility

I'm about to buy, and I'm wondering if anyone has an opinion about ordering from this Amazon seller vs. this eBay seller. I know that Green-Sum has great ratings, but I trust Amazon a bit more, maybe? I've never purchased from eBay before, so....

I am upgrading right now, just bought an MSI Gold Edition GTX970 and a Steelcase Leap chair! Looking forward to debezeling the QNIX after a test period, I've got a 1080p Acer that's going to be my TeamSpeak, admin, Chrome panel, while I'm gaming on the 1440p at better frames. I'm getting a dual-mount for these guys as well, the $30 dual-arm that seems to be everywhere.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Sploosh

I'm pretty livid right now. I debezeled my monitor to look for the source of the panel play, and found that they have changed the way they secure the screen to the body of the monitor. They have it just resting between four metal corners, which are bent so the screen tilts and slides all over the place. Wow I was not expecting this.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> As NCX stated that new versions of QNIX 2710 monitors have PWM and not that good contrast, would you still recommend buying it for photography, video editing and some FPS gaming, or?
> Thanks!


Here are some pics posted my MenacingTuba comparing the old and the new versions of the panel. Newer versions on the right hand side.

96Hz



60Hz


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> So I have two X-Star Monitors now, can I overclocked both of them or just one while the other stays at 60hz? I plan to use one monitor for netflix while I game on the other. Never done the overclocking on a multi-monitor setup before, is it even possible?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I used this & it works.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


Didn't work for me... sigh AMD... why do you do this to me.

edit: nm i figured it out, i just did it the traditional way using CRU --- now i have 1 monitor at 110hz my gaming primary, and netlfix youtube on my second monitor is still running at 60hz which is A-OK with me


----------



## egyptionsr2buff

So I am trying to put a QNIX in the middle and 2 vertical monitors to the right and left of it. using it as extended displays. My Qnix is on its way but I wanted to purchase a VESA mount and vertical monitors while I wait. I currently have a 20inch monitor would that be about the same height as the qnix monitor if lined up vertically with it.

Also if someone could tell me the dimensions of the screen without the stand?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ucantescape1992*
> 
> Can anyone using the HP ZR22w Monitor Stand let me know if they've had stability problems due to weight? I'm sick and tired of the POS stock Qnix stand and I'd like at least pivot and height adjustment, swivel would be nice too.



I have it and it doesn't raise up the monitor, it just slides back down because of the weight, its designed for 22 inch monitors. So height adjustment is a no go. And turning it to portrait mode is possible but the monitor will be resting on the desk (due to the weight) therefore it will be tilted upwards and not that useful.
I should also mention that the monitor with this stand is slightly rotated to the right, as if you're placing your hand on the top right and pushing it down. I don't notice this normally but when stand and take a few steps back and look at it from a distance its clear.
Swivel left and right works great. Also, tilting up and down works great < this helps me when I'm tired of sitting and want to stand up a bit.

*So, get this stand if you want a sturdy replacement to the stock stand with swivel and tilt capabilities. If you want height adjustment and portrait mode, look elsewhere.*

Here are some pictures of the stand: Keep in mind that its fully raised up just because it was new, after that it just slides back down.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*PICS:*



http://imgur.com/8mrIZkE


here it is, you can see the dell stand behind



http://imgur.com/xa3T7gJ




http://imgur.com/5kQzjaO




http://imgur.com/NoDlp96


This is the tallest height


http://imgur.com/lHuF9vY


Maximum tilt


http://imgur.com/GwNabYX




http://imgur.com/f75GZMu


vertical rotation


http://imgur.com/mt5pyvf




http://imgur.com/y95T5fP

[/quote]


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egyptionsr2buff*
> 
> So I am trying to put a QNIX in the middle and 2 vertical monitors to the right and left of it. using it as extended displays. My Qnix is on its way but I wanted to purchase a VESA mount and vertical monitors while I wait. I currently have a 20inch monitor would that be about the same height as the qnix monitor if lined up vertically with it.
> 
> Also if someone could tell me the dimensions of the screen without the stand?


39.8 X 64.4 cm


----------



## viper2005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper2005*
> 
> hi again
> 
> I managed to open the monitor and got some pics. Can somebody tell if there is something wrong with the board because i obviously don't know anything about electronics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


so, i opened the monitor and i found out that it uses the Samsung's ltm270dl02 panel. I searched google and found out that this panel belongs to the flicker free list.
https://www.google.gr/search?q=ltm270dl02+flicker&rlz=1C9BKJA_enGR593GR593&oq=ltm270dl02+flicker&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome-mobile&espvd=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=el

So i have to ask, can other factors cause flicker to the monitor?

All thoughts are welcomed

Regards


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sploosh*
> 
> I'm pretty livid right now. I debezeled my monitor to look for the source of the panel play, and found that they have changed the way they secure the screen to the body of the monitor. They have it just resting between four metal corners, which are bent so the screen tilts and slides all over the place. Wow I was not expecting this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


[/Spolier]

Hey Bro! looking the pics I think you monitor doesn't have any BLB? correct?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Here are some pics posted my MenacingTuba comparing the old and the new versions of the panel. Newer versions on the right hand side.
> 
> 96Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 60Hz


Is too much the difference!
Exist some operation to know if We have bought a new panel or the old panel(if we were lucky..)? just some code to look..


----------



## Sploosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Hey Bro! looking the pics I think you monitor doesn't have any BLB? correct?


It has no noticeable bleed, just the usual faint marks around the edges, but nothing glaring. It only looks like there's bleed or color washout in the lower two corners, but that's most likely because of my poor positioning. When I shift my view it vanishes - with proper placement it should be unnoticeable. As you can see, they taped up the edges before shipping the monitor. The panel is quite good - no bad pixels either.

What I'm upset about is that to actually get it working properly, it will need to be completely removed from the frame and set up with a custom mount. The corners are out of whack and there's a 2 mm gap between the screen and the front panel that allows for a lot of play. According to the place I ordered it from in Korea, "a 2 mm gap is perfectly normal". Which was shocking as I've never had panel play in a monitor before.


----------



## Blutch

how can i check if i have a new or older model qnix panel?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwisekoi*
> 
> The Tomb Raider benchmark with TressFX looks really, really good. 30fps, so that blows. *I guess I can either decide it looks "cinematic"* or actually build my dual 290X gaming rig.










LOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If the power brick outputs 12V, you could power the Qnix out of a Molex PSU connector.


I've been thinking of doing this. How can i make sure my 12V PSU Molex's output is 5A? I found this: www.amazon.com/dp/B00K53I1JY


I don't know if it is a simple plug and play process or i have to mod in a fuse or something like that.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> How can i make sure my 12V PSU Molex's output is 5A?


Iirc, molex should be rated for ~10A, but looking at your spec list you're already running 2 R9 290's and a 4770k off a 760W PSU, powering a monitor too might push it over its limits.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Iirc, molex should be rated for ~10A, but looking at your spec list you're already running 2 R9 290's and a 4770k off a 760W PSU, powering a monitor too might push it over its limits.


Of course, yeah i wont be doing this with my current setup. Ill propably upgrade my psu in the near future anyway.

The stock power brick outputs 12v 5A, I dont know if 12v 10A will harm the monitor or not? Thats why i asked if i should mod it or just plug and play.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> The stock power brick outputs 12v 5A, I dont know if 12v 10A will harm the monitor or not?


Current is always drawn, never pushed. Your monitor will only draw as much current as it needs. So yes, in theory it should be safe.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Current is always drawn, never pushed. Your monitor will only draw as much current as it needs. So yes, in theory it should be safe.


Good to know. I need to refresh my info on physics basics. Thanks +R


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> As NCX stated that new versions of QNIX 2710 monitors have PWM and not that good contrast, would you still recommend buying it for photography, video editing and some FPS gaming, or?
> Thanks!


Isn't that the multi input ones only? Or do the standard DVI only QX2710 use PWM now as well?

Also are those pics both the standard single input QX2710 and the new ones are crap? Or is one the standard single DVI and the other (bad washed out looking one) the multi input?


----------



## caenlen

post deleted --- i figured out my problem, overclock was too high lol


----------



## vedranius

Quote:


> _NCX wrote:_
> The glossy Qnix QX2710 & X-Star DP2710, have slower pixel response times and the gamma rises when overclocked, but glow less than the IPS panels when viewed head on. The ICC profiles provided in my reviews correct the high gamma. *The newest batch of glossy Qnix & X-Star's use LED PWM Dimming/flicker back-lights and a different Samsung PLS panel which remains unaffected colour wise when overclocked.*


More about it here: http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15027-best-27-2560x1440-ahva-ips-pls-monitors.html#post1219700

On his YouTube channel
Quote:


> There's no way to know which version sellers have; it's a lottery, though it is likely that all of the new panels use PWM.


----------



## Nwanko

I have an issue if anyone else is experiencing. My oc was working fine until today on my 1440p ips. Now windows wont show my custom resolutions and refresh rate no matter what i do. I can reinstall my drivers and reset cru and atikdmag patcher and nothing will change. On the other hand Catalyst is showing me "My maximun reported refresh rate 96Hz" but windows does only show 60Hz.

Any solution for my problem?


----------



## Nwanko

Update: if i delete the 60hz resolution in CRU and only leave the 96Hz and rester my PC its only showing the 96Hz now. Soo this is a windows problem i assume.


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> [/Spolier]
> 
> Hey Bro! looking the pics I think you monitor doesn't have any BLB? correct?
> Is too much the difference!
> Exist some operation to know if We have bought a new panel or the old panel(if we were lucky..)? just some code to look..


So the QNIX 2710 single input are still good and the multi input are the ones with bad contrast, PWM etc? Or are the new single input QX2710 bad as well?


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicholars*
> 
> So the QNIX 2710 single input are still good and the multi input are the ones with bad contrast, PWM etc? Or are the new single input QX2710 bad as well?


My Glossy work fine and I'm loving it!


----------



## Nicholars

For example would this monitor be PWM free and have good contrast?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/121457291776?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c476b3200

Are all the evolution 2 models now PWM and bad contrast? or is it just the multi input ones that have PWM and bad contrast?

Thanks


----------



## the9quad

Pretty sure its luck if the draw no matter what model you get. Luckily, the one I boguht a couple of years ago wasn't pwm.


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Pretty sure its luck if the draw no matter what model you get. Luckily, the one I boguht a couple of years ago wasn't pwm.


So even with the SINGLE INPUT qnix 2710 evo2 you can get PWM screens?

I thought it was only the multi input QX2710 evo2 that has PWM?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicholars*
> 
> So even with the SINGLE INPUT qnix 2710 evo2 you can get PWM screens?
> 
> I thought it was only the multi input QX2710 evo2 that has PWM?


Yes, read the article.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicholars*
> 
> Isn't that the multi input ones only? Or do the standard DVI only QX2710 use PWM now as well?
> 
> Also are those pics both the standard single input QX2710 and the new ones are crap? Or is one the standard single DVI and the other (bad washed out looking one) the multi input?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nicholars*
> 
> For example would this monitor be PWM free and have good contrast?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-Perfect-Pixel-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/121457291776?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c476b3200
> 
> Are all the evolution 2 models now PWM and bad contrast? or is it just the multi input ones that have PWM and bad contrast?
> 
> Thanks
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nicholars*
> 
> So the QNIX 2710 single input are still good and the multi input are the ones with bad contrast, PWM etc? Or are the new single input QX2710 bad as well?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vedranius*
> 
> More about it here: http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15027-best-27-2560x1440-ahva-ips-pls-monitors.html#post1219700
> 
> On his YouTube channel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Lots of conversation lately about older panels [LTM270DL02 S-PLS] vs newer version panels [LTM270DL07 S-PLS].

"vedranius" post is informative and a good start + Rep









I'm adding some additional observations to help clear some things up ...

1) The older version panels are NOT all PWM free, but at least the % chance (lottery) of it being PWM free was much higher in the past. AND there is no way so far to predetermine if a panel will be PWM free or not without individual testing









PWM simple camera test *HERE* ...

PWM extended testing *HERE* ...

2) It seems "most" panels sold today, Glossy or Matte, have the newer panel in them and I don't believe we have found a single one that is PWM free









2a) It also seems that when you overclock (96-120Hz) newer [LTM270DL07 S-PLS] glossy or matte single-input PLS panel you will NOT notice any Gamma increase ... NONE or barely noticeable picture dimming! This "may?" be used as a quick simple test for the newer panel type without disassembly to check the actual panel model numbers









2b) The newer Glossy panels seem to also suffer from some slight picture clarity/color degradation compared to the older glossy panels. Whether this can be completely corrected with calibration/custom ICC profiles is hard to determine. You can read much more on this and the panels differences from MenacingTuba's (aka NCX) and my discussion/observations starting *HERE*









3) *AND this is very important! ... NOT all people suffer the effects of PWM dimming*, even at lower frequencies








EDIT: If I were to speculate (note I have no hard data to back this up), I would say a majority of people do not suffer, or even notice PWM dimming!

4) The multi-input True10 models have a whole other set of problems beyond PWM dimming ... see *HERE*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper2005*
> 
> so, i opened the monitor and i found out that it uses the Samsung's ltm270dl02 panel. I searched google and found out that this panel belongs to the flicker free list.
> https://www.google.gr/search?q=ltm270dl02+flicker&rlz=1C9BKJA_enGR593GR593&oq=ltm270dl02+flicker&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome-mobile&espvd=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=el
> 
> So i have to ask, can other factors cause flicker to the monitor?
> 
> All thoughts are welcomed
> 
> Regards


Sorry but not all [LTM270DL02 S-PLS] panels were PWM free








You have to test individually, see above or *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> [/Spolier]
> 
> Hey Bro! looking the pics I think you monitor doesn't have any BLB? correct?
> Is too much the difference!
> Exist some operation to know if We have bought a new panel or the old panel(if we were lucky..)? just some code to look..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> My Glossy work fine and I'm loving it!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blutch*
> 
> how can i check if i have a new or older model qnix panel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

See above to compare panel #'s ... requires disassembly








OR a simpler check would be to observe whether you had significant gamma increase (dimming) when you OC'd your panel? Especially at 110-120Hz? I'm curious to know









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Pretty sure its luck if the draw no matter what model you get. Luckily, the one I boguht a couple of years ago wasn't pwm.


Simple and accurate comment +R


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Yes, read the article.


Yes what? The Multi or DVI can both have PWM? Or just the multi input?

Also what article do you mean?

Thanks


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicholars*
> 
> Yes what? The Multi or DVI can both have PWM? Or just the multi input?
> 
> Also what article do you mean?
> 
> Thanks


There is a website article someone posted on this page like 5 posts up. All panels have pwm now, or rather just about all of them do.


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> There is a website article someone posted on this page like 5 posts up. All panels have pwm now, or rather just about all of them do.


Hmm well that pretty **** then, will have to get something else, does this apply with the XSTAR screens as well?


----------



## sinnedone

All the PWM talk might be a little over concerned about.

If you know PWM dimming bothers you then you have a genuine concern.

If your using your panel and are happy with it don't go looking for something wrong with it and keep enjoying it like you have been.

If you do feel like PWM dimming is noticeable I read that increasing brightness to maximum might keep the flicker away on some panels.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> All the PWM talk might be a little over concerned about.
> 
> If you know PWM dimming bothers you then you have a genuine concern.
> 
> If your using your panel and are happy with it don't go looking for something wrong with it and keep enjoying it like you have been.
> 
> If you do feel like PWM dimming is noticeable I read that increasing brightness to maximum might keep the flicker away on some panels.


True. Concern about PWM should be mostly about whether you can notice it, or have eye-strain or headaches due to it, in the first place.

The second, less important reason, to be concerned about PWM, is PWM artifacts. Scrolling will produce multiple text edges, for example. In general, the strobing effect that happens at multiple times the refresh rate (such as 180Hz PWM @ 60Hz) will cause soft, clean motion blur to become multiple edges or the moving object. http://www.testufo.com/PWM

Increasing the brightness to maximum will bring most new monitors well over 300 cd/m2 which is way too bright for normal use, particularly for sensitive eyes that are bothered by PWM. Those eyes would become sore from the higher brightness, instead. The solution for that is to use a profile that caps the white level at the desired brightness, but doing so to reduce brightness from 300 cd/m2 to 120 cd/m2, for example, will kill the color palette as it will have to shave more than half the available shades of color (leaving you with less than half of 16.7 million colors to represent the whole range of colors with 120 cd/m2 brightness now). Say hello to super-banding (if you're not on an AMD graphics card).

As for being happy with your panel, I agree. I keep testing my monitor for PWM but tests are inconclusive. Moving lines show up on camera but move very slowly. PWM test by eye (linked to above) shows a single moving line and a soft blur. One other monitor I use clearly has PWM as it shows 4 lines that are moving in that same test. Text edges are multiplied when scrolling, and fast moving lines show up on camera. It doesn't bother me though. I never even knew it had PWM during my 4 years of using it as my main monitor because I had been using it at 100% brightness at first, and still didn't notice when I dropped the brightness below that later on.


----------



## N3RORE

Essentially, the new panel of Qnix/X-star (LTM270DL07 S-PLS) has the advantage that after overclocked will not notice any Gamma increase but definitely uses the PWM.
At the same time, however, has less vibrant colors but can be improved using color sustainer returning close to the quality of the old panel(LTM270DL02 S-PLS)?


----------



## asimplebeast

After many botched modifications to my xorg.conf I got my X-Star working under linuxmint on a GTX 970 by following these simple instructions: http://blog.devicenull.org/2012/05/05/nvidia-edid-issues.html

"Turn off the EDID checksum detection, add this to the "Section Device" block in xorg.conf: Option "IgnoreEDIDChecksum" "DFP"

Before I tried the above, the closest I got to a usable monitor was by coping this xorg.conf from patshead blog. It had terrible color retention and ghosting.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



# nvidia-xconfig: X configuration file generated by nvidia-xconfig
# nvidia-xconfig: version 1.0 ([email protected]) Fri Mar 12 02:12:40 PST 2010

Section "ServerLayout"
Identifier "Layout0"
Screen 0 "Screen0"
EndSection

Section "Files"
EndSection

Section "Monitor"
Identifier "Monitor0"
VendorName "QNIX"
ModelName "2710"
HorizSync 88.8
VertRefresh 59.5
# 2560x1440 59.96 Hz (CVT 3.69M9) hsync: 89.52 kHz; pclk: 312.25 MHz
Modeline "2560x1440" 312.25 2560 2752 3024 3488 1440 1443 1448 1493 -hsync +vsync
DisplaySize 597 336
Option "DPMS"
EndSection

Section "Device"
Identifier "Device0"
Driver "nvidia"
VendorName "NVIDIA Corporation"
Option "NoLogo"
EndSection

Section "Screen"
Identifier "Screen0"
Device "Device0"
Monitor "Monitor0"
DefaultDepth 24
SubSection "Display"
Depth 24
Modes "2560x1440"
EndSubSection
Option "UseEDID" "False"
Option "UseEDIDDPI" "False"
Option "UseEDIDFreqs" "False"
Option "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"

### Metamode for single QX2710 (2560x1440)
# Option "metamodes" "DFP-0: 2560x1440 +0 +0"

### Metamode for dual QX2710 (5120x1440)
Option "metamodes" "DFP-0: 2560x1440_60 @2560x1440 +0+0, DFP-2: 2560x1440_60 @2560x1440 +2560+0"
EndSection



I'm not sure what that xorg.conf is overclocked too, or if it is at all. Can anyone show me where the refresh has been modified? Thanks guys, really great group you are all apart of btw.


----------



## tymann23

Officially part of the Qnix/X-Star QX/DP2710 owners club!! Just waiting on mine to arrive! Fortunately was able to find a fellow member on here with the older superior Qnix panel that is in tremendous physical condition, who was willing to sell it, so i'm very happy for that! Looking forward to the upgrade to 1440p with such a great panel that is the Samsung PLS panel within the Qnix QX2710!

Never experienced a higher refresh rate then 60hz either, so that's going to be great since the Qnix i'll have can go up to 120hz. Debating on whether i'll leave it at 96hz with no need really to use a ICC profile, or will I push it to 120hz and use an ICC profile. Hm?







Also, would anyone recommend using an ICC color profile regardless for the panel? My Qnix is glossy BTW, and is one of the dead pixel free, BLB free ones.

BTW, that screenshot someone posted of NCX explaing the PWM situation within the newer Samsung PLS panel on Youtube, I was the person he was talking to!! Lol, grndmst9 is me on Youtube lol, I actually lol'd when I saw someone post that.


----------



## APhamX

Do you guys know where I can get three of the screws that is used to screw the base to the monitor? I was looking at hanging the monitor on my desk (the desk has small diamond shapes holes) and I was thinking about just screwing four screws through it so mount it to my desk.


----------



## GRPace

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f

does anyone advise against this model? thinking about ordering it.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GRPace*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f
> 
> does anyone advise against this model? thinking about ordering it.


Just remember that it's an off-grade model. It will come with some defects probably.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> Officially part of the Qnix/X-Star QX/DP2710 owners club!! Just waiting on mine to arrive! Fortunately was able to find a fellow member on here with the older superior Qnix panel that is in tremendous physical condition, who was willing to sell it, so i'm very happy for that! Looking forward to the upgrade to 1440p with such a great panel that is the Samsung PLS panel within the Qnix QX2710!
> 
> Never experienced a higher refresh rate then 60hz either, so that's going to be great since the Qnix i'll have can go up to 120hz. Debating on whether i'll leave it at 96hz with no need really to use a ICC profile, or will I push it to 120hz and use an ICC profile. Hm?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, would anyone recommend using an ICC color profile regardless for the panel? My Qnix is glossy BTW, and is one of the dead pixel free, BLB free ones.
> 
> BTW, that screenshot someone posted of NCX explaing the PWM situation within the newer Samsung PLS panel on Youtube, I was the person he was talking to!! Lol, grndmst9 is me on Youtube lol, I actually lol'd when I saw someone post that.


Both 96Hz and 120Hz need ICC profiles in order to correct for the gamma shift. I suggest to use a profile for 60Hz only if your panel is clearly off, e.g. yellowish / bluish. And then you would have to find a profile made for a monitor similar to yours in terms of color. Otherwise you might cause the monitor to be further off in terms of grayscale accuracy.


----------



## mEduzaLTu

Which is better for gaming and why? Will most likely order one of these today.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/111380363963?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19eec97abb

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-PC-Monitor-/121114422949?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c32fb6ea5


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mEduzaLTu*
> 
> Which is better for gaming and why? Will most likely order one of these today.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/111380363963?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19eec97abb
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-PC-Monitor-/121114422949?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c32fb6ea5


The single input one, read the guide on the front page.


----------



## mEduzaLTu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicholars*
> 
> The single input one, read the guide on the front page.


I did, but the response time is short on the other one, so I asked just to make sure, will order the single input one tonight then. Thanks for the answer.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GRPace*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f
> 
> does anyone advise against this model? thinking about ordering it.


It is an "off-grade" model and "could?" have defects that would show up much more prominently than just faulty pixels. The defects look like some kind of stain on the screen (see pics).

However IIRC, we have 2 members that have ordered the off-grade panels, in the last month, I can't remember who? One briefly reported no defects, but didn't comment on anything else like overclock potential etc ... the other guy we haven't heard from at all ... $200 for an overclockable 1440p panel is crazy reasonable, but for me if it had a big stain on it, Id have to delegate it to backup duty











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mEduzaLTu*
> 
> Which is better for gaming and why? Will most likely order one of these today.
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/111380363963?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item19eec97abb
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-PC-Monitor-/121114422949?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c32fb6ea5


I could give a more complete answer if I knew your system specs (see sig) ...
But in general ... It is NO CONTEST ... the single input / PLS panel, 2nd one in your list is superior for high end gaming! ... only exception might be if you want to hook up your Xbox for secondary (low res) gaming









The multi-input True10 models cannot OC over 75-85Hz without dropping frames, have a slightly inferior panel, and have 1-2 frames more input lag ... read all the details/links/proof *HERE*









Hope that helps get you started ... welcome to OCN


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Essentially, the new panel of Qnix/X-star (LTM270DL07 S-PLS) has the advantage that after overclocked will not notice any Gamma increase but definitely uses the PWM.
> At the same time, however, has less vibrant colors but can be improved using color sustainer returning close to the quality of the old panel(LTM270DL02 S-PLS)?


The newer panel has a smaller color gamut. The older panel is slightly oversaturated while the newer panel is slightly undersaturated, giving that large difference you see in the comparison photo. You cannot make a monitor with a smaller gamut show colors outside that gamut so the newer panel will never look like the older panel in terms of color saturation. It will, however, be more accurate in certain cases, especially with shades closer to the primaries and secondaries that are properly saturated on the newer panel but are oversaturated on the older panel.

The profiles that we apply in Windows and Color Sustainer are for grayscale calibration. Color gamut cannot be shrunk with these profiles, you would need color-aware applications such as Photoshop for that.


----------



## Nicholars

If all of the QNIX have PWM now, what is the PWM like on them? For example 2500hz PWM is not a problem but 240hz PWM would be annoying, does anyone know what sort of PWM they use on the single input QNIX 2710?


----------



## mEduzaLTu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I could give a more complete answer if I knew your system specs (see sig) ...
> But in general ... It is NO CONTEST ... the single input / PLS panel, 2nd one in your list is superior for high end gaming! ... only exception might be if you want to hook up your Xbox for secondary (low res) gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The multi-input True10 models cannot OC over 75-85Hz without dropping frames, have a slightly inferior panel, and have 1-2 frames more input lag ... read all the details/links/proof *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps get you started ... welcome to OCN


Well, my specs are:


Spoiler: My Specs



OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU: Intel Core i7 4770 @ 3.40GHz
RAM: 8.00GB DDR3 @ 800MHz
MOBO: Gigabyte Z87-HD3
GPU: 3GB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 Ti
SSD: 120GB Kingston SV300S3
HDD: 1TB Seagate ST1000DM



Thanks for a more detailed answer, will surely order the second one (single input). Hope it comes without any major problems, can't wait to look at something nicer than this Packard Bell Maestro 242DX I'm staring at right now.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicholars*
> 
> If all of the QNIX have PWM now, what is the PWM like on them?


130-160hz depending on the panel type (PLS or AHVA).


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> The newer panel has a smaller color gamut. The older panel is slightly oversaturated while the newer panel is slightly undersaturated, giving that large difference you see in the comparison photo. You cannot make a monitor with a smaller gamut show colors outside that gamut so the newer panel will never look like the older panel in terms of color saturation. It will, however, be more accurate in certain cases, especially with shades closer to the primaries and secondaries that are properly saturated on the newer panel but are oversaturated on the older panel.
> 
> The profiles that we apply in Windows and Color Sustainer are for grayscale calibration. Color gamut cannot be shrunk with these profiles, you would need color-aware applications such as Photoshop for that.


Many Thanks, now is more clear for me.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> 130-160hz depending on the panel type (PLS or AHVA).


I take this opportunity to ask you what is the best way to see if there is a ghost(home made).
These photos I made with my Samsung S2 but I don't understand if they fit or not.


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> 130-160hz depending on the panel type (PLS or AHVA).


Hm well if all the QNIX including the 2710 single input have low PWM like that then I definitely wont be getting one


----------



## bmancreations

Hi,

I have 1 QNIX mutli-input and 2 Xstars. When my computer sleeps, all my windows (even my taskbar) gets moved to the middle monitor.

Anyone know why this would happen?


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

If anyone sees a damn good deal on one of the monitors please shoot me a PM!







I knew i should have bought on at the same time my buddy did for $189. Damnit haha


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> I take this opportunity to ask you what is the best way to see if there is a ghost (home made).


These monitors suffer from obvious ghosting (especially the monitors with PWM) when looking at the fast moving Alien and car from the Test UFO Ghosting and PixPerAn test, but many people do not notice anything while gaming. The real question is if you are bothered by it (others can not determine this) and if you want to spend twice as much on a faster monitor (assuming you want a high hz monitor) like the upcoming Acer XB270HU and Asus MG279Q.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> These monitors suffer from obvious ghosting (especially the monitors with PWM) when looking at the fast moving Alien and car from the Test UFO Ghosting and PixPerAn test, but many people do not notice anything while gaming. The real question is if you are bothered by it (others can not determine this) and if you want to spend twice as much on a faster monitor (assuming you want a high hz monitor) like the upcoming Acer XB270HU and Asus MG279Q.


In my case I don't have big problems with ghosting when playing(now), I perceive it only in rare cases and only on Battlefield 4 at this time.
Of course, I chose the Qnix because my budget was very limited and was the only solution to have a 2560x1440 with more than 60 Hz otherwise I could take the Yamakasi "2B" but you reviews had me convinced that Qnix was better.
Unfortunately, only a short time ago we discovered that all QX2710 Glossy models have a different panel from what We thought, otherwise I would have taken the Yamakasi "2B".
Overall I'm happy of this monitor.


----------



## electro2u

Even on ufo test my catleap does not ghost significantly at 120hz. For comparison, the overshoot on my fg2421 with turbo240 strobing on causes ufo test to go drunken double vision with a very very crisp main ufo with a nasty trailer, while the catleap just isn't as crisp (blurry) but has no significant trailing ghost.


----------



## Nicholars

Are there any korean monitors at all that either have no PWM or high frequency PWM (eg.1000+ hz PWM) that you would not notice? Xstar, Qnix, Yamakazi, Crossover etc etc.


----------



## electro2u

They are all apparently a lottery on pwm. My Catleap is not pwm and I've had 2 qnix that weren't.


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> They are all apparently a lottery on pwm. My Catleap is not pwm and I've had 2 qnix that weren't.


When did you get the Qnix, was it over a year ago? The ones I have seen reviewed did not report PWM, that was 18 months ago.. but now I read about 160hz or 240hz PWM which is low enough to be annoying. Seriously WHY don't the big manufacturers like asus, dell etc. make monitors with GLOSSY SCREENS AND LOW INPUT LAG! I was about to take a gamble on a Qnix then I read they have PWM.


----------



## mEduzaLTu

So, ordered this Monday night http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-PC-Monitor-/121114422949?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c32fb6ea5

Came to my door today, and well, before buying it I was really worried about all the problems I read about these monitors like dead pixels backlight bleeding etc. and now I'm sitting here gaming on this monitor and I'm amazed.

0 dead pixels, nearly none backlight bleeding, just a little tiny bit left bottom corner, except for that everything is perfect, even overclocked to 100hz without any problems. (haven't tried higher than 100hz)

Now I had a couple of questions related to monitor overclocking as I've never done it before today. I read that it may damage/shorten the monitor's life, so I've got 2 questions.

Is there a difference in "damaging" the monitor between 100Hz and 120Hz? I mean is it worse for the monitor to be overclocked to 120 rather than 100?

Will it help if I go back to 60Hz when not gaming and only switch to 100Hz when I start playing?


----------



## ocCuS

Hey guys
yesterday i finished my new build and made my desctop monitor setup.
My primery monitor is the asus pb278q and the secondary one is the QNIX QX2710 DP Multi DPMulti TRUE10 27" 2560x1440 Monitor.
I have one problem:
The asus one is connected via dp and the qnix via dvi-d
both resolutions are set to 2440x1440
But when i drag something from the asus to the qnix monitor, the window for example gets bigger, and it seems it´s not 1440p (more like 1080p). From Qnix to Asus of course,too (it gets smaller to the sharp 1440p)
GPUs are 2 780TIs in SLI btw
Is this a known problem? Is there a way to fix it? Or a firmware update? I hope some can help me


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







edit
problem solved
another cable fixed the problem


----------



## PcZac

Is there any consensus on what Korean monitors are the best? The only requirements I have is matte and pixel perfect. Higher frame rates do sound nice, but I'd just be happy with good color reproduction and low light bleeding.


----------



## CheckMeowt

Just got my Qnix monitor all setup! It is gorgeous!

I ran through the steps for overclocking it (as seen here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club) and, assuming I did everything correctly, I was able to set the refresh rate at 110Hz.

I tested the new overclock at the testufo site (http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping), but it keeps giving me a reading of 60fps/60Hz. Why wouldn't it show my 110Hz?


----------



## electro2u

Use Google Chrome for ufo test and force vsync


----------



## CheckMeowt

I am using Google Chrome. How do I force vsync?


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CheckMeowt*
> 
> I am using Google Chrome. How do I force vsync?


If you are Nvidia user, must be forced from Nvidia control pannel.


----------



## mEduzaLTu

Why is it that when my Aero is on and I go onto the UFO test it shows 100HZ, but when I turn Aero off the UFO test shows 60Hz even though I have 100Hz set in NVC?


----------



## electro2u

Because it just needs to be on to make it work on win 7. Something about vsync and transparent Windows being mandatory for ufo test. Be5ter info would be available on the blurbusters site.


----------



## CheckMeowt

So I went into the Nvidia control panel and turned v-sync and triple buffering on under the "manage 3D settings." I clicked apply and closed out of the control panel then tested the ufo test again and it's still saying 60fps/60Hz. I opened the Nvidia control panel and saw that it reverted back to the default settings. It kept reverting back to the default settings even after multiple attempts, even after I clicked apply. What am I doing wrong?

I changed the v-sync and triple buffering on for both the global settings back and the program settings tab specifically in Chrome.


----------



## Ovrclck

So what bad ass wallpapers are you all using? Please post if you can!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Because it just needs to be on to make it work on win 7. Something about vsync and transparent Windows being mandatory for ufo test. Be5ter info would be available on the blurbusters site.


Windows 7 Aero Theme enables VSync on the desktop, that's why.

With Windows 8, it's enabled as long as DWM (Desktop Windows Manager) is active. Turning that off requires quite some tinkering.


----------



## xGHOSTx

I've been looking around for these Korean monitors for a while. Been looking for one with no PWM, glossy and that can OC to at least 100Hz+ with no gamma shift like the older Qnix/X-star had,. So it looks like my only options are the MOTV M2700LED or a Catleap 2B. Anyone had any experience with the MOTV? Saw the NCX review and seems like a very good monitor, and the perfect pixel is decently priced.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xGHOSTx*
> 
> I've been looking around for these Korean monitors for a while. Been looking for one with no PWM, glossy and that can OC to at least 100Hz+ with no gamma shift like the older Qnix/X-star had,. So it looks like my only options are the MOTV M2700LED or a Catleap 2B. Anyone had any experience with the MOTV? Saw the NCX review and seems like a very good monitor, and the perfect pixel is decently priced.


Consider building your own monitor if you've got the skills for it:

Grade A+ HP Z1 All-In-One 1440p AH-IPS panel off eBay
Emaxeon 2B OC PCB
Overlord Tempest Chassis
Power Adapter

There was a thread somewhere but I don't have the link for it. Will link later on if I get the link / you don't find it first.


----------



## DamselinDistres

Do people actually build there own monitors???


----------



## Nicholars

Removed


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamselinDistres*
> 
> Do people actually build there own monitors???


Yes


----------



## DamselinDistres

Wow I need to do some research on this. Sounds like a solution to my problems!!


----------



## Sploosh

My QNIX adventure...

Removed the bezel to bend the metal tabs holding the monitor in place and add electrical tape to try and stabilize the panel inside the plastic frame. It seems to have worked perfectly besides the cut thumb.





Removed the stand and attached a new one to the vesa mount. Set it up and noticed that the monitor was tilting slightly to the right.



Unscrewed the stand and attempted to turn it slightly while re-tightening the screws to see if that would help. Ended up over-torquing one of the pressed in bolts, and it popped loose.


Removed the mount and then completely disassembled the monitor to find that it was actually under the circuit board.


Removed the board and attached the bolt again with some crazy glue (didn't work). Seriously contemplating going bezel-less and making my own vesa mount.



Put everything back together and and its still tilting slightly to the right.


I tried. Maybe if its really worth it, I'll strip off the damn plastic just so it doesn't tilt slightly. Otherwise, I'm learning!


----------



## PhotonFanatic

I bought the Xstar DP*2710*LED from Dream_Seller on ebay. Only minor light bleed, which I can probably fix by adding electrical tape.

My big issue is that there is no menu button to calibrate the monitor? How can you sell a monitor with no menu button? There is only Power, Volume controls, and brightness controls. No menu. I would like to change the contrast slightly. My whites aren't exactly what I would like them to be. Anyone know how I can adjust all the settings on this thing, with no menu button?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> I bought the Xstar DP*2710*LED from Dream_Seller on ebay. Only minor light bleed, which I can probably fix by adding electrical tape.
> 
> My big issue is that there is no menu button to calibrate the monitor? How can you sell a monitor with no menu button? There is only Power, Volume controls, and brightness controls. No menu. I would like to change the contrast slightly. My whites aren't exactly what I would like them to be. Anyone know how I can adjust all the settings on this thing, with no menu button?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


There is no menu button because there is no menu. All adjustments other than brightness are done using the video drivers or windows settings. The OP of this forum has directions on correcting color.


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Ok thank you. Are you guys just using regular old, off the shelf black electrical tape? The kind you might use to wrap some wires together. The pics could be a little misleading but, that stuff looks a little... glossy.


----------



## Sploosh

To fix my monitor positioning, I just used good ol' regular electrical tape. As for what rush used in the OP link, that is also regular electrical tape. If you reattach your plastic bezel, it stays hidden.


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> My big issue is that there is no menu button to calibrate the monitor? How can you sell a monitor with no menu button? There is only Power, Volume controls, and brightness controls. No menu. I would like to change the contrast slightly. My whites aren't exactly what I would like them to be. Anyone know how I can adjust all the settings on this thing, with no menu button?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


You could buy a colorimeter and make color profiles for it.


----------



## yasamoka

*duplicate*


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> I bought the Xstar DP*2710*LED from Dream_Seller on ebay. Only minor light bleed, which I can probably fix by adding electrical tape.
> 
> My big issue is that there is no menu button to calibrate the monitor? How can you sell a monitor with no menu button? There is only Power, Volume controls, and brightness controls. No menu. I would like to change the contrast slightly. My whites aren't exactly what I would like them to be. Anyone know how I can adjust all the settings on this thing, with no menu button?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


This has been covered way too many times. The single-input overclockable monitors are that overclockable due to the fact that they include a bypass board which has no OSD nor any image processing, giving you practically no signal lag (2-3ms).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicholars*
> 
> You could buy a colorimeter and make color profiles for it.


Or use QuickGamma for small adjustments if you don't care about accuracy all that much. A good colorimeter like the i1 Display Pro is expensive, but it's worth it. I keep my monitors calibrated that way.


----------



## Nicholars

Removed


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> This has been covered way too many times. The single-input overclockable monitors are that overclockable due to the fact that they include a bypass board which has no OSD nor any image processing, giving you practically no signal lag (2-3ms).
> Or use QuickGamma for small adjustments if you don't care about accuracy all that much. A good colorimeter like the i1 Display Pro is expensive, but it's worth it. I keep my monitors calibrated that way.


Thanks. I got it looking better using the Nvidia control panel. The windows calibrator just kept throwing error messages and saying it wouldn't save the settings, then reverting back the the old settings. Its quite limited anyway compared to the Nvidia control panel. There was too much green and the whites weren't looking quite right. Changed the hue, the contrast, and the digital vibrance a bit, and its looking a lot better.

All I have to do now is take it apart and add some electrical tape to that metal piece to fix some of the light bleed.

Does anyone know if you have to unplug all those plugs just to get the metal piece off? I watched that guy's youtube vids but he started rambling when it actually came to that particular aspect and never really went into detail in the minimum steps needed to get that metal off the panel.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> Thanks. I got it looking better using the Nvidia control panel. The windows calibrator just kept throwing error messages and saying it wouldn't save the settings, then reverting back the the old settings. Its quite limited anyway compared to the Nvidia control panel. There was too much green and the whites weren't looking quite right. Changed the hue, the contrast, and the digital vibrance a bit, and its looking a lot better.
> 
> All I have to do now is take it apart and add some electrical tape to that metal piece to fix some of the light bleed.
> 
> Does anyone know if you have to unplug all those plugs just to get the metal piece off? I watched that guy's youtube vids but he started rambling when it actually came to that particular aspect and never really went into detail in the minimum steps needed to get that metal off the panel.


Nvidia Control Panel color settings will not be forced if a fullscreen application (game) resets the color profile. That means in quite a few games, the color settings would be lost. Try to capture the modifications you have done with NvCP by using PowerStrip or similar, and load it using Color Sustainer.

On that note, I really should add a "Capture Gamma Ramp" button to Color Sustainer... *adds to to-do list*


----------



## bomerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> Thanks. I got it looking better using the Nvidia control panel. The windows calibrator just kept throwing error messages and saying it wouldn't save the settings, then reverting back the the old settings. Its quite limited anyway compared to the Nvidia control panel. There was too much green and the whites weren't looking quite right. Changed the hue, the contrast, and the digital vibrance a bit, and its looking a lot better.
> 
> All I have to do now is take it apart and add some electrical tape to that metal piece to fix some of the light bleed.
> 
> Does anyone know if you have to unplug all those plugs just to get the metal piece off? I watched that guy's youtube vids but he started rambling when it actually came to that particular aspect and never really went into detail in the minimum steps needed to get that metal off the panel.


you need to use color sustainer with profiles like the post above me says

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117

Readjusting the screen on the newer QNIX is much more difficult because the screen itself is taped to the bezel.


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Nvidia Control Panel color settings will not be forced if a fullscreen application (game) resets the color profile. That means in quite a few games, the color settings would be lost. Try to capture the modifications you have done with NvCP by using PowerStrip or similar, and load it using Color Sustainer.


Hmm... is that necessarily a bad thing? If a game wants to run its own profile, wouldn't it be ok just to go with that? I'm assuming its the profile the developers had in mind, for how they felt the game would best be experienced. Maybe someone can correct me on that If I'm wrong. I was having a real problem adjusting from my lousy (at least now I think its lousy) TN panel to the way this one looked. As such I was trying like hell to make this one like a bit more like that TN one. The colors just seemed... drab. The whites didn't look quite as white, the screen didn't seem as bright, and the reds looked dull. Messing with the nvidia control panel, I've been able to fix all this to my liking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bomerr*
> 
> you need to use color sustainer with profiles like the post above me says
> 
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117
> 
> Readjusting the screen on the newer QNIX is much more difficult because the screen itself is taped to the bezel.


I'm afraid I'm a huge noob to monitor calibrating. I know very little about it. What exactly are these profiles? Why would I load one, instead of just using what looks good to me personally? Correct me if I'm wrong but to me it seems like it would be what someone else thought looked good. Some profile that someone created?

As for the screen it doesn't appear that I have the "new" one where its taped. From my research so far, it would seem that I have the one that doesn't have that issue.


----------



## Nicholars

Color profile will give you accurate colors.... Not what someone else thinks is good etc. Just as close to real colors as possible with your screen... The games color will still be not right if your monitor is not the right color in the first place..


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Ok thank you. I'm trying to learn about all of this. He said

"Try to capture the modifications you have done with NvCP by using PowerStrip or similar, and load it using Color Sustainer."

Now is Nvcp something like Nvidia inspector? Also I have no idea what powerstrip is. Searching that of course, yields nothing but powerstrips. Color sustainer I can probably figure out.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> Ok thank you. I'm trying to learn about all of this. He said
> 
> "Try to capture the modifications you have done with NvCP by using PowerStrip or similar, and load it using Color Sustainer."
> 
> Now is Nvcp something like Nvidia inspector? Also I have no idea what powerstrip is. Searching that of course, yields nothing but powerstrips. Color sustainer I can probably figure out.


Google search "PowerStrip entech" will find the software. (I used "powerstrip download" to find it.)


----------



## emsj86

By any chance does any one have the Asus rog swift and these Korean monitors. I ask because I wanted to know if the difference is wow noticeable or just alittle better


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Ok now I have to ask about the viewing angle. All you hear is how impressed people are with the viewing angle. Um...not me. Now I know we're dealing with B list panels here. These are obviously the ones that weren't up to samsung's standards. But when I go up, down, left or right... the screen looks like you cranked up the gamma to the max. This is no problem, because I sit in front of it. But I'm just wondering where all this love for the viewing angle is coming from. Frankly my TN 1080p ASUS 24" cheapo panel does slightly better than this PLS panel when it comes to the viewing angle.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> Ok now I have to ask about the viewing angle. All you hear is how impressed people are with the viewing angle. Um...not me. Now I know we're dealing with B list panels here. These are obviously the ones that weren't up to samsung's standards. But when I go up, down, left or right... the screen looks like you cranked up the gamma to the max. This is no problem, because I sit in front of it. But I'm just wondering where all this love for the viewing angle is coming from. Frankly my TN 1080p ASUS 24" cheapo panel does slightly better than this PLS panel when it comes to the viewing angle.


Its IPS glow(Also affects PLS), some have it worse than others.


----------



## electro2u

IPS glow doesn't move and isn't affected by viewing angle is it? I'm a bit perplexed about a PLS panel having gamma shift from off-centre angles. I've had 3 qnix/xstars and currently use a Catleap I'm quite fond of. They were all very very uniform. I've heard they've been using ahva panels on these recently and I'm personally not familiar with them. Technically they shouldn't have angle issues, either but I'd wager that is what you'd find in the monitor the above poster described.


----------



## RemagCP

What do you guys think of these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f


----------



## Nicholars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> Ok thank you. I'm trying to learn about all of this. He said
> 
> "Try to capture the modifications you have done with NvCP by using PowerStrip or similar, and load it using Color Sustainer."
> 
> Now is Nvcp something like Nvidia inspector? Also I have no idea what powerstrip is. Searching that of course, yields nothing but powerstrips. Color sustainer I can probably figure out.


You don't need to do any of it unless you have a colorimeter
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> What do you guys think of these?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f


You would already be buying an "off grade" panel... So that would be a double off grade panel... which would likely have big problems with it.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> What do you guys think of these?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f


What it means is these are lower binned panels. The manufacturers take a small number of random samples from larger shipments of bulk lcd panels and the samples are graded. These come from shipments that failed to pass too many of the tests to be accepted by the manufacturers. So the factory is selling them directly or they are selling them off to local resellers in S.K.

It's a bit of a gamble and I can't exactly recommend them as gaming monitors specifically they are a good choice for a low cost solution especially if out and out speed isn't essential because the blur reduction of even 96hz s quite noticeable. As funny as it may sound I actually really enjoy just b3ing able to use use a high refresh rate in Google Chrome with smooth scrolling. And I very rarely game. Too many good alternatives are either available now or are just on the horizon fir hard-core fps gamers and blurbusters.

I would buy from Amazon and I did--but don't expect 120hz as any kind of guarantee. Of course you could only get a Catleap 2B OC from one place (ebay-Green-Sum) when I got mine. They are on Amazon too now although . The Yamaksi I ended up with has deeper blacks and it was the winner for me (mostly I think the glossy monitor's tend to have deep blacks when glare is not present from environmental light)--those are a gamble too and judging by the strange and volatile pricing from Greensum and lots of temperamental over clocking reports I wouldn't recommend these now for gaming necessarily either but the glossy screen was definitely preferable for me--the only difference between the PLS and IPS versions of the Korean OC monitors worth being picky about is that the Qnix X-stars are traditionally matte and Catleaps are usually glossy unless otherwise stated. My Catleap does ghost a lot more than a TN hz for hz but it's more on certain colors than others and the white to black of scrolling text is pretty crisp. They are very nice in terms of color accuracy and uniformity. They are also suitable for high quality non-professional photo editing.


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Ok so what panel would these be, if they had passed samsung's quality control? Which samsung brand monitor could you buy, that would be 27", have a glossy screen, and be PLS with 1440p resolution? I would like to know what model of samsung that is, and what the price would be.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Anyone else notice hairs and dust suddenly appearing behind their screen?

I got my Qnix around June/July.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Do the TOPSYNC Monitors overclock well? Cant seem to find any info on them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Refurbished-TOPSYNC-LUXURY-2700QWB-LED-2560x1440-QHD-PC-Monitor-From-U-S-/111435344051?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19f21068b3


----------



## jimski53

I have the x-star dp2710 perfect pixel from dreamseller on ebay and i have not overclocked it but i do have a problem sometimes not often it will have a small square on screen about 30mm in size in different places on screen that is a jumble of changing colour pixels this will happen in games or on you tube ,does anyone know what this might be or a fix im using the dvi d cable and psu that came with monitor my gpu is a r9 280x with omega driver


----------



## Saajenks

Hey guys, I've been looking at these monitor's for a long time and finally have some disposable income to spend. My question is, are there any sellers that are more reputable than any other's? Also, what is my cheapest option on ebay right now (No Offgrade)? I thought it was only the Qnix and Xstar monitor's that OC, but after reading a bit it seems there are others too.

I was looking at :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19f4e53c3d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710LED-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560x1440-27inch-Computer-Monitor-Glossy-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

Will those both work?

Thank you guys!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saajenks*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been looking at these monitor's for a long time and finally have some disposable income to spend. My question is, are there any sellers that are more reputable than any other's? Also, what is my cheapest option on ebay right now (No Offgrade)? I thought it was only the Qnix and Xstar monitor's that OC, but after reading a bit it seems there are others too.
> 
> I was looking at :
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19f4e53c3d
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710LED-PLS-Panel-WQHD-2560x1440-27inch-Computer-Monitor-Glossy-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e
> 
> Will those both work?
> 
> Thank you guys!


Those are the two best sellers to my knowledge. I personally bought several Qnix off Amazon from Ecomade Arena and found them to be excellent, if I remember correctly the shipping address that came from MyUPS matched exactly the address I got for Dreamseller.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Anyone else notice hairs and dust suddenly appearing behind their screen?
> 
> I got my Qnix around June/July.


Matte, Glossy, or Tempered Glass?


----------



## Nicholars

Are there ANY korean 1440p screens that DO NOT have PWM (or PWM at very high frequency would be ok)? Any brand or model?


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Matte, Glossy, or Tempered Glass?


Matte


----------



## emsj86

Is there a reason why the prices of these panels went up but I hear the quality of how it's mounted in the bezel has for worse. And had anyone have experience with off grade and where? How was it?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Matte


Mine is fine and has been for well over a year now. Not sure how dust could get into your panel, are you sure its dust you're seeing, not dead pixels?


----------



## TBoogie

Has anyone tried a Dell 2707WFPc stand for their QX2710? Saw one for $5 at the local surplus so I picked it up. Haven't hooked it on yet, though. Need a stretch of time in which I can disassemble the whole damn thing to remove the existing stand and post.

It's got tilt and height adjustment, so I'm thinking it has potential. Plus it was originally made for a 27" monitor. I'll post up pics when I get it on.


----------



## PcZac

Just ordered my first Korean monitor, the QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll LED 2560x1440 from Amazon. Hopefully shipping doesn't take too long.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> Just ordered my first Korean monitor, the QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll LED 2560x1440 from Amazon. Hopefully shipping doesn't take too long.


Awesome! Where did you order from?


----------



## PcZac

Got this one, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAKD6LI/ wanted a matte finish and pixel perfect, had some giftcards for Amazon so I was fine paying a bit more than Ebay. Hopefully there won't be any dead pixels, I'm ready to open it up and fix black light bleeding if needed. I'm really excited to try to get it OC, haven't seen a 120hz monitor in person ever.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Is there a reason why the prices of these panels went up but I hear the quality of how it's mounted in the bezel has for worse. And had anyone have experience with off grade and where? How was it?


I've noticed this as well. I know the new freesync monitors are supposed to be coming out soon maybe they're trying to scalp because of it? Could be simply low stock as well.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> Got this one, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAKD6LI/ wanted a matte finish and pixel perfect, had some giftcards for Amazon so I was fine paying a bit more than Ebay. Hopefully there won't be any dead pixels, I'm ready to open it up and fix black light bleeding if needed. I'm really excited to try to get it OC, haven't seen a 120hz monitor in person ever.


Your mind will be blown!









60hz will never look the same again.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> Got this one, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAKD6LI/ wanted a matte finish and pixel perfect, had some giftcards for Amazon so I was fine paying a bit more than Ebay. Hopefully there won't be any dead pixels, I'm ready to open it up and fix black light bleeding if needed. I'm really excited to try to get it OC, haven't seen a 120hz monitor in person ever.


I bought 2 of those from him. I found it curious Newegg listed all these qnix monitors of different types as being manufactured by ecomade arena so I ordered from that seller on Amazon. Got 2/2 perfect pixel, one had zero IPS glow and no backlight bleed and I almost immediately scratched it with the edge of my keyboard while cleaning the thing without unplugging it. Second one wasn't quite as good IPS glow wise but not bad at all. He sent me a zowie mouse pad because I told him I scratched the first monitor. Then I one shotted a nearly perfect catleap that does 120hz. The only defect it has is that it has one stuck pixel at the bezel edge... It's the weirdest stuck pixel I've ever encountered - it takes whatever the color of the center of the monitor is. So on test screens it's invisible.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I bought 2 of those from him. I found it curious Newegg listed all these qnix monitors of different types as being manufactured by ecomade arena so I ordered from that seller on Amazon. Got 2/2 perfect pixel, one had zero IPS glow and no backlight bleed and I almost immediately scratched it with the edge of my keyboard while cleaning the thing without unplugging it. Second one wasn't quite as good IPS glow wise but not bad at all. He sent me a zowie mouse pad because I told him I scratched the first monitor. Then I one shotted a nearly perfect catleap that does 120hz. The only defect it has is that it has one stuck pixel at the bezel edge... It's the weirdest stuck pixel I've ever encountered - it takes whatever the color of the center of the monitor is. So on test screens it's invisible.


Have you tried a stuck pixel fixer? Maybe it isn't permanent.


----------



## N3RORE

Hello Guys,
just a reference only for who want take newer Glossy:



this pictures has been taken from my Qnix QX2710 EVO II Glossy that is the newer panel.

Regards.


----------



## Saajenks

Hey guys, so I just had a quick question. I will be using this monitor : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OCTOJVG/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=

I would like to run a 110hz overclock, of course I understand that I will not be guaranteed a 110hz monitor.

However it is to my understanding that a lot of people have been successful in achieving this? My major concern is I will be using 2 other 1080p 60hz monitor's in addition to this as my main monitor.

Is the multi-monitor going to cause issues?

Thank you.


----------



## electro2u

*Should* be fine. Can run all 3 off 1 nvidia gpu but will need a display port to hdmi or dvi in for 1 of the 60hz monitors. Depends on the other 2 monitor's connections.


----------



## zehoo

Finally got around to fixing the back light bleed on my qx2710 after more than a year, should have done this ages ago. Pretty much all gone and now all I notice is the poor contrast ratio that IPS type panels have







.


----------



## Rawkiller

Hello Folks-

Awesome site! Them members here sure seem to know whats up! I have a question or two I'd like to ask before I purchase my first over seas monitor.

I only play World of Warcraft. It doesn't support SLI or Crossfire. I do have two GTX680 EVGA cards but currently only use one. I am interested in playing wow at a higher res. I currently play it at 3200x1800 on my overclocked Samsung monitor but the refresh rate is only 77.

I see that Quinx changed to a true 10, I also understand that it doesn't OC as well as the original. So I want to be sure I am getting exactly the right monitor that works with my card and overclocks well. I prefer glossy in that I have no glare in my game room.

Can you suggest to me the exact one to get?

Thanks !


----------



## piee

Just got new qx2710 with dl07 panel,glossy,no dead pxles,almost no blb, OC 116, but use 113hz, didnt install qnix drivers or any patches, just used NVCP custom and showed in BF4, vesa mounted, no dim when OCed, PWM flicker free at max brightness so I used NVCP color BR25,CON 0,GAM91, then reduced green to GAM88, results almost perfect, took 3wks from Korea, DS-trade EBAy $319 freeship, says its a ah-va but discription is accurate, quick response when inquired, super sharp UFO tested, will upgrade to gold plated DVI-D to squeeze 120hz or more, confirmed 117hz but artifacts when gaming.

win7
4790K (4.6)
980ref


----------



## Dry Bonez

OK,i give up trying to overclock this stupid monitor. I have been doing extensive reading and followed every step. Is it possible for a monitor to NOT overclock at all? Ok, first thing first,i have 3x QNIX 2710(single input) monitors. The first one i have has 1 stuck(green) pixel and a weird lookin cloud thingy that is pissin me off more than the stuck pixel tbh,anyone know how to get ride of it or what it is? Back on topic, that monitor i can overclock to 110hz just fine, and i know its a success because i did the testing using chrom and taking a picture using that UFO site.. i also see artifacts when i try 115 or above. which leads me to the 2nd monitor. BTW i should mention i use them individually due to my GPU not bein able to run 3x at this moment but will be upgrading to the new gpu's as i have no issue waiting. So anyway, the 2nd monitor will NOT OC whatsoever. i currently have 2 GTX 580 SLI, and i used the nvld patcher full 1.3.1 and patched everything as well as the driver for the monitor installed. Now when i go into NvC panel, i try overclocking to 96,110,115,120, i even tried 144hz for the hell of it, and although it seems to run smoother, i get NO artifacts. Then the weird thing is, when i play a game (resident evil 6), i am able to select the desired refresh rate (144HZ). What am i doing wrong? Also, on my 1st monitor, when i overclock the monitor using SLI. it freezes on me all the time unless i disable SLI an d only works when i disable SLI







someone please help me out here.

Oh,and i have not tried my 3rd monitor. I still have it in the box but i know it works because i tested it but never overclocked or anything.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> OK,i give up trying to overclock this stupid monitor. I have been doing extensive reading and followed every step. Is it possible for a monitor to NOT overclock at all? Ok, first thing first,i have 3x QNIX 2710(single input) monitors. The first one i have has 1 stuck(green) pixel and a weird lookin cloud thingy that is pissin me off more than the stuck pixel tbh,anyone know how to get ride of it or what it is? Back on topic, that monitor i can overclock to 110hz just fine, and i know its a success because i did the testing using chrom and taking a picture using that UFO site.. i also see artifacts when i try 115 or above. which leads me to the 2nd monitor. BTW i should mention i use them individually due to my GPU not bein able to run 3x at this moment but will be upgrading to the new gpu's as i have no issue waiting. So anyway, the 2nd monitor will NOT OC whatsoever. i currently have 2 GTX 580 SLI, and i used the nvld patcher full 1.3.1 and patched everything as well as the driver for the monitor installed. Now when i go into NvC panel, i try overclocking to 96,110,115,120, i even tried 144hz for the hell of it, and although it seems to run smoother, i get NO artifacts. Then the weird thing is, when i play a game (resident evil 6), i am able to select the desired refresh rate (144HZ). What am i doing wrong? Also, on my 1st monitor, when i overclock the monitor using SLI. it freezes on me all the time unless i disable SLI an d only works when i disable SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> someone please help me out here.
> 
> Oh,and i have not tried my 3rd monitor. I still have it in the box but i know it works because i tested it but never overclocked or anything.


Try not using the patch. There is no patch needed for nvidia necessarily needed. 144hz is not possible for these. Most top out around 100-110Hz.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> OK,i give up trying to overclock this stupid monitor. I have been doing extensive reading and followed every step. Is it possible for a monitor to NOT overclock at all? Ok, first thing first,i have 3x QNIX 2710(single input) monitors. The first one i have has 1 stuck(green) pixel and a weird lookin cloud thingy that is pissin me off more than the stuck pixel tbh,anyone know how to get ride of it or what it is? Back on topic, that monitor i can overclock to 110hz just fine, and i know its a success because i did the testing using chrom and taking a picture using that UFO site.. i also see artifacts when i try 115 or above. which leads me to the 2nd monitor. BTW i should mention i use them individually due to my GPU not bein able to run 3x at this moment but will be upgrading to the new gpu's as i have no issue waiting. So anyway, the 2nd monitor will NOT OC whatsoever. i currently have 2 GTX 580 SLI, and i used the nvld patcher full 1.3.1 and patched everything as well as the driver for the monitor installed. Now when i go into NvC panel, i try overclocking to 96,110,115,120, i even tried 144hz for the hell of it, and although it seems to run smoother, i get NO artifacts. Then the weird thing is, when i play a game (resident evil 6), i am able to select the desired refresh rate (144HZ). What am i doing wrong? Also, on my 1st monitor, when i overclock the monitor using SLI. it freezes on me all the time unless i disable SLI an d only works when i disable SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> someone please help me out here.
> 
> Oh,and i have not tried my 3rd monitor. I still have it in the box but i know it works because i tested it but never overclocked or anything.


Tried CRU?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Tried CRU?


i thought this was only for AMD users?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i thought this was only for AMD users?


CRU works fine for Nvidia. Need the Nvidia pixel clock patch to get it working. It is of course possible you ended up with a unit that doesn't have the OC board in it.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Try not using the patch. There is no patch needed for nvidia necessarily needed. 144hz is not possible for these. Most top out around 100-110Hz.


, what you mean theres no patch needed? as far as i know,the only one that doesnt need one is gtx 780ti. i have a gtx 580 and it says i need it...... anyway,i think i narrowed it down guys.i just need help because i have no clue....ok, i still get no artifacts when at 120. it is extremely weird. and games read the desired refresh rate,im assuming it works. so anyway, i came to the conclusion with facts of an hour messing with it. it appears gtx 580 SLI does NOT work at all with this monitor. and i mean both monitors.
How do i know? simple. i disabled SLI and i run games butter smoothe. But i stumbled upon 2 things, i read somewhere samsung magician and geforce experience interfere wihth nvidia drivers. so i uninstalled both with no success. The next method is what made my conclusion a 100% FACT.. so i enable SLI en nvidia control panel and this time,all i did was choose gtx 580(2) to use as dedicated physx.And apparently now the games dont flicker when i start them. The moment i choose auto select and enables SLI, all games i boot start to flicker and is unplayable.When on desktop nothing happens.What is wrong and is there a fix?

Oh and i downloaded CRU but i have no idea how to use that thing even after trying to understand the guide. it is extremely difficult to understand idk why....one last thing i will ask, Is using dedicated physx on gtx(2) considered SLI?? Im going to assume it isnt considered SLI.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> , what you mean theres no patch needed?


I mean with Nvidia Control Panel custom res options, you don't need a patch. I don't know about your card, i'm on a 980 and I run 120Hz from the NVCP and don't use any patches at all. CRU I need on my AMD rig, but not my Nvidia system.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I mean with Nvidia Control Panel custom res options, you don't need a patch. I don't know about your card, i'm on a 980 and I run 120Hz from the NVCP and don't use any patches at all. CRU I need on my AMD rig, but not my Nvidia system.


explain this. im lost. so all you did was put the qx2710 driver and thats it?


----------



## emsj86

anyone have any experience with the qnix off grade models, if so what defects did you have>?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> explain this. im lost. so all you did was put the qx2710 driver and thats it?


Don't let others confuse you. For your setup (GTX580s) you need the patch as posted in the OP. Newer GPU's (I know for sure 780 and above) don't need the patch. I'm running 780tis in SLI with no patch, no qnix driver, just NVCP. But, that doesn't help you, because you are using an older GPU.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Alrigh,i have a question everyone. Since i have 2x GTX 580, If i put one card as dedicated PHYSX,does that count as being in SLI? I Came to the conclusion SLI does NOT work for me with these monitors.

Can someone on here please tell me if your monitor overclocks when you enable SLI? or if you have 2x GTX 580,can you test it for me? I tried 2 different monitors with the same outcome.

UNLESS it can be a cable? or maybe,just maybe,its my setup(doubt it). my specs are as followed IF it makes a difference or for those wondering.
[email protected]
cooler : H220x AIO liquid cooer.
16gb 2133 corsair vengeance
Z87 asus deluxe
Seasonic x gold 760w
cm storm stryker case
2x GTX 580 1.5gb


----------



## renji1337

What games seem to work with browser profiles







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawkiller*
> 
> Hello Folks-
> 
> Awesome site! Them members here sure seem to know whats up! I have a question or two I'd like to ask before I purchase my first over seas monitor.
> 
> I only play World of Warcraft. It doesn't support SLI or Crossfire. I do have two GTX680 EVGA cards but currently only use one. I am interested in playing wow at a higher res. I currently play it at 3200x1800 on my overclocked Samsung monitor but the refresh rate is only 77.
> 
> I see that Quinx changed to a true 10, I also understand that it doesn't OC as well as the original. So I want to be sure I am getting exactly the right monitor that works with my card and overclocks well. I prefer glossy in that I have no glare in my game room.
> 
> Can you suggest to me the exact one to get?
> 
> Thanks !


World of warcraft supports SLI/Crossfire


----------



## Rawkiller

Wow has almost no benefit from SLI/Crossfire. It's well documented.


----------



## sinnedone

Anyone have a 120hz color profile that keeps the gamma shift to a minimum? I want the monitor to look the same way it does at 60hz.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Anyone have a 120hz color profile that keeps the gamma shift to a minimum? I want the monitor to look the same way it does at 60hz.


The OP has 30+ color profiles..


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> The OP has 30+ color profiles..


So the profiles work the same whether it's done through Windows or color sustainer?


----------



## LotionExplosion

Hey, I'm on a GTX 980 and am trying to overclock my X-Star DP2710. I followed the guide but this is the error message I get:



Any ideas on a fix?

EDIT:

I was able to fix it by disabling the digital signature requirement. Got it all to install properly, but when I open up the NVIDIA control panel, I still don't get any options aside from 60hz. Any suggestions?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotionExplosion*
> 
> Hey, I'm on a GTX 980 and am trying to overclock my X-Star DP2710. I followed the guide but this is the error message I get:
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas on a fix?
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I was able to fix it by disabling the digital signature requirement. Got it all to install properly, but when I open up the NVIDIA control panel, I still don't get any options aside from 60hz. Any suggestions?


FYI you don't need the qnix "driver". All you need to do is go to NVCP and select Change Resolution, then select customize, check the Enable resolutions not exposed by the display, then create custom Resolution.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> FYI you don't need the qnix "driver". All you need to do is go to NVCP and select Change Resolution, then select customize, check the Enable resolutions not exposed by the display, then create custom Resolution.


Would a different GPU give better refresh rates?
I just tried my 3rd(on it right now) qnix monitor and i am a bit upset because the highest it will do is 96hz














im extremely upset at this. Is there anything i can do to get 110 working?


----------



## Forceman

You can try messing with the timings, but it may just be at the limit. A different GPU shouldn't make any difference.


----------



## AngryFuture

Here to check in with my QNIX QX2710 LED.
VERY happy with it and Ive had it as high as 120hz so far. I just need a video card setup to do. Which will hopefully be happening soon....and can make up my mind.

:Edit:
Has anyone noticed their power brick staying pretty hot to the touch?


----------



## meraki1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryFuture*
> 
> Here to check in with my QNIX QX2710 LED.
> VERY happy with it and Ive had it as high as 120hz so far. I just need a video card setup to do. Which will hopefully be happening soon....and can make up my mind.
> 
> :Edit:
> Has anyone noticed their power brick staying pretty hot to the touch?


My power brick is also pretty hot to the touch, but I wouldn't worry.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryFuture*
> 
> Here to check in with my QNIX QX2710 LED.
> VERY happy with it and Ive had it as high as 120hz so far. I just need a video card setup to do. Which will hopefully be happening soon....and can make up my mind.
> 
> :Edit:
> Has anyone noticed their power brick staying pretty hot to the touch?


If your power brick is hot, you may want to replace it. There have been reports of "hot" power bricks going bad, and damaging the monitor. If you search this forum, you should be able to find a cheap one from ebay that works good.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Would a different GPU give better refresh rates?
> I just tried my 3rd(on it right now) qnix monitor and i am a bit upset because the highest it will do is 96hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im extremely upset at this. Is there anything i can do to get 110 working?


There have been reports of the 9xx series not OC these monitors as well as the 7xx series did. If you could borrow a 780, it might be worth trying.


----------



## lukesterrr

Hey all, I got the QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll & having trouble updating the monitor driver in Device Manager when using the qnixmonitordriver.zip file??? Comes up with "encountered an error while attempting to install" & "does not contain digital signature information".

Specs:
OS: Win 8.1 64bit
CPU: i7 4790k
GPU: 2 x 970 G1 sli
RAM: 32gb 2400mhz
MB: z97x Killer

Thanks.


----------



## electro2u

There's no benefit to installing the qnix driver. But if you must you need to turn secure boot off in w8.1 and then deactivate driver signature enforcement.


----------



## lukesterrr

I thought you had to update the monitor driver to be able to overclock it past 60hz?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukesterrr*
> 
> I thought you had to update the monitor driver to be able to overclock it past 60hz?


Nope. Need pixel clock patch for AMD and custom resolution utility (cru) or nvidia pixel clock patch on older gpus plus NV control panel.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawkiller*
> 
> Wow has almost no benefit from SLI/Crossfire. It's well documented.


I recently benchmarked it and with warlords of draenor its much different, please don't spread false information. I play at 4K res and and huge differences with 2 970's vs one.

in CPU bound scenarios you will not see a difference in FPS. crank wow's res to utlra with 4k res or 4k res + SSAA on the 6.1 ptr like i do and you will see huge differences with FPS.


----------



## PcZac

Any idea how long expedited shipping from Korea for these monitors take compared to regular shipping? I don't trust the ETA of 2 more days when the tracking number still doesn't show it as shipped.


----------



## xProxius

Hey guys, I got quite the dilemma on my hands.I'm pretty sure I'd like to upgrade to one of these 1440p monitors.Since my 2nd monitor borked on me recently.Guess you could say I'm skeptical on biting the bullet on which one seeing how my budget is 300 USD max and I feel like I'll get stuck with a big paper weight..any guidance would be appreciated.Thanks


----------



## AngryFuture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> Any idea how long expedited shipping from Korea for these monitors take compared to regular shipping? I don't trust the ETA of 2 more days when the tracking number still doesn't show it as shipped.


Order a Qnix from newegg if you worried...but the two shipping is no joke. Mine was here in two days.


----------



## electro2u

All 3 of mine went through Alaska and actually went back in time because of time zones. 2 days is common but it depends on the seller and where you live.


----------



## vaporizer

i ordered mine on a tuesday night and it showed up the next monday morning before christmas week. it took a couple of days just to ship it, then it looked like the monitor came on the Concord(if your old enough to know what that is) as it seemed to get here to the desert lickity split. it came too soon for me as it never made it under the tree because i had to test it and i couldn't get myself to put it back into the box.


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Ok so what panel would these be, if they had passed samsung's quality control? Which samsung brand monitor could you buy, that would be 27", have a glossy screen, and be PLS with 1440p resolution? I would like to know what model of samsung that is, and what the price would be.


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> Ok so what panel would these be, if they had passed samsung's quality control? Which samsung brand monitor could you buy, that would be 27", have a glossy screen, and be PLS with 1440p resolution? I would like to know what model of samsung that is, and what the price would be.


Something like this one

http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/monitors/LS27A850DS/ZA


----------



## Rawkiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> I recently benchmarked it and with warlords of draenor its much different, please don't spread false information. I play at 4K res and and huge differences with 2 970's vs one.
> 
> in CPU bound scenarios you will not see a difference in FPS. crank wow's res to utlra with 4k res or 4k res + SSAA on the 6.1 ptr like i do and you will see huge differences with FPS.


Please don't act like you know more than Blizzard who PLAINLY said they have not coded the game to take advantage of duel cards. Please stop acting like you have some insight to blizzard who PLAINLY IN BOLD TEXT WRITTING ON THE INTERNET SAID THEY DO NOT SUPPORT SLI but it can see small gains.. How about you use the blue post tracker on the wow forums and see what the MAKERS of the game said? How about that? E-know it alls ffs.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawkiller*
> 
> Please don't act like you know more than Blizzard who PLAINLY said they have not coded the game to take advantage of duel cards. Please stop acting like you have some insight to blizzard who PLAINLY IN BOLD TEXT WRITTING ON THE INTERNET SAID THEY DO NOT SUPPORT SLI but it can see small gains.. How about you use the blue post tracker on the wow forums and see what the MAKERS of the game said? How about that? E-know it alls ffs.


some people do experience really good sli/cfx scaling in wow, personally mine does ok, much better than one card. So yeah, you might be wrong on this one, no sense treating people like that. That is not how people roll here, maybe another forum where people treat people like crap would be better suited for you?


----------



## PcZac

No one programer (or Blizzard forum moderator) knows every aspect of a modern game engine, some graphics programer could have been testing SLI for a certain feature or aspect of an engine and it got implemented into the main branch either intentionally or unintentionally, the only way to know if the game benefits from SLI or CFX is to benchmark the game and do comparisions. WoW is 10 years old at this point, there's probably tons of code left in the engine the devs are not completely aware of.


----------



## Rawkiller

Again, this isn't about if you seen gains, It's about the maker of the game saying "YOU WON'T GET THE FULL BENIFITS OF SLI/CROSSFIRE" Why do you not understand that it's not coded to do it? Why do you believe that the gains you see out weigh them saying they didn't and won't support it? I mean.. Yeesh. Why do I see triple framerates in EVERY OTHER GAME BUT WOW in SLI? WHY? because they DON'T support it. I mean it's so simple to read Blizz's response. They also won't fully support multi core processor... I suppose they are wrong there too?


----------



## PcZac

Why so serious?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawkiller*
> 
> Again, this isn't about if you seen gains, It's about the maker of the game saying "YOU WON'T GET THE FULL BENIFITS OF SLI/CROSSFIRE" Why do you not understand that it's not coded to do it? Why do you believe that the gains you see out weigh them saying they didn't and won't support it? I mean.. Yeesh. Why do I see triple framerates in EVERY OTHER GAME BUT WOW in SLI? WHY? because they DON'T support it. I mean it's so simple to read Blizz's response. They also won't fully support multi core processor... I suppose they are wrong there too?


If it works why do I care about what Blizzard says they support? Just because a company says they don't support something doesn't mean it wont work. And when I play WoW, I get a pretty substantial performance improvement in CFX versus just using one card. Should I just tell myself, hey bro that GPU percentage and FPS increase you see in the corner isnt real, because Blizzard doesnt support CFX? Why?

Btw I have several games that don't support CFX and still work in CFX using a different profile or AFR friendly mode or 1:1 mode. Farcry 4 works in CFX and has no offical support from ubi or AMD in fact they both outright deny supporting it, but CFX still works. It actually works better than some other games that officially support CFX.

tldr, just because a company supports sli/cfx that is no guarantee you will get the full benefits of SLI/CFX. and vice versa.


----------



## Rawkiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> Why so serious?


I just wanted some help on a monitor but instead I got some guy telling me to stop spreading misinformation. I mean I am no rocket scientist but I can read.. I really just wonted some help but I got e-thugged







I am no closer to the topic of this thread or my original post.. which monitor to get : / Wish I hadn't joined here or posted.


----------



## Rawkiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Look dude, if it works why do I care about what Blizzard says they support? Just because a company says they don't support something doesn't mean it wont work. And when I play WoW, I get a pretty substantial performance improvement in CFX versus just using one card. Should I just tell myself, hey bro that GPU percentage and FPS increase you see in the corner isnt real, because Blizzard doesnt support CFX? Why?


I give up... Take it up with Blizz. You folks clearly have the universe figured out. I misspoke good on you.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawkiller*
> 
> I give up... Take it up with Blizz. You folks clearly have the universe figured out. I misspoke good on you.


no, you clearly have to always be right and are coming across pretty rudely when someone disagrees. Like I said, if that is the sort of thing you dig, there about a million forums where people love that kind of stuff. Here, we generally don't act like that. So if you will take a breather, relax, and start acting nicer, you'll see this place is pretty awesome because of that.

btw I have no problem complaining when CFX doesn't work in games, so what do I gain by saying it works for me in WoW?

Also, I would no longer recommend one of these monitors. If you could get one of the older monitors maybe, but not now. Personally, I'd just hold out for G-Sync/A-sync monitors that are coming out.

also I am not the guy who said you were spreading misinformation, I guess that he was pretty rude as well, so I apologize for you getting such a rude welcome to the forum.


----------



## Rawkiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> no, you clearly have to always be right and are coming across pretty rudely when someone disagrees. Like I said, if that is the sort of thing you dig, there about a million forums where people love that kind of stuff. Here, we generally don't act like that. So if you will take a breather, relax, and start acting nicer, you'll see this place is pretty awesome because of that.
> 
> btw I have no problem complaining when CFX doesn't work in games, so what do I gain by saying it works for me in WoW?


Your right! I found the extra frame rates you found. It was right there on my screen. Heck all I had to do was open my eyes. Thanks so much. I appreciate that.
To all who read my post's, I retract everything. Wow clearly supports SLI/Crossfire. Please forgive my previous posts. My bad. Please delete all my posts now that I have been made aware that Blizz is wrong. Thanks.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawkiller*
> 
> Your right! I found the extra frame rates you found. It was right there on my screen. Heck all I had to do was open my eyes. Thanks so much. I appreciate that.
> To all who read my post's, I retract everything. Wow clearly supports SLI/Crossfire. Please forgive my previous posts. My bad. Please delete all my posts now that I have been made aware that Blizz is wrong. Thanks.


K you're on ignore, you clearly have some issues acting with some semblance of civility.


----------



## PcZac

There's so many possible explanations, it's silly to say Blizzard doesn't support something, therefore it cannot affect performance in any way. It could be that the drivers find something for the second GPU to do, or it could be Blizzard was mistaken and there is some limited support of SLI/CF in the game, or it could be (you Rawkiller were right) an error in how the benchmarks were done, and there's no benfit in WoW at all.


----------



## Rawkiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> K you're on ignore, you clearly have some issues acting with some semblance of civility.


I guess I just don't belong. I know computers too. I know what using the gpu monitor does. I can plainly see WOW doesn't use both cores equal or to 100% . I also can read. I can see the devs say they aren't going to code the game to make it use the functions of SLI... Get mad at me if you like, or go read what Blizz said. Why does that make me a bad guy?


----------



## Rawkiller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> There's so many possible explanations, it's silly to say Blizzard doesn't support something, therefore it cannot affect performance in any way. It could be that the drivers find something for the second GPU to do, or it could be Blizzard was mistaken and there is some limited support of SLI/CF in the game, or it could be (you Rawkiller were right) an error in how the benchmarks were done, and there's no benfit in WoW at all.


OHH M GEE.. I didn't say you wouldn't see gains. I said you wouldn't get the FULL BENIFITS. Also, It wasn't me that said it. It was Blizz.. You guy's really need to get off your horses. I can't help what was said, Why are you fighting against them? I mean seriously. Do you not understand that seeing some gains vs seeing what your cards are able to do isn't the same thing?


----------



## the9quad

Just a quick pic from wow that I just took, feel free to click and look at the original image. If you notice in the left hand corner you can see I am getting 100% usage on GPU1, 96% usage on GPU 2, and 100% usage on GPU 3. I am running at 1440p with every option possibly maxed out and as you can see right there I am getting 112 fps.










link

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img905/3439/uNS2Ro.png

Like I said just because something isn't officially supported doesn't mean it doesn't work and in some cases (like wow for me), it works perfect.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Anyone know why/how to get the QNIXMONITORDRIVER to install on a windows 8 machine. I get an error saying that it can't take unsigned drivers.

Thanks!


----------



## PcZac

the9quad, for fun you should also show your performance with SLI/CF disabled and at 2-way.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Anyone know why/how to get the QNIXMONITORDRIVER to install on a windows 8 machine. I get an error saying that it can't take unsigned drivers.
> 
> Thanks!


you have to go to the charms bar>settings>change pc settings>update & recovery>recovery>advance startup>restart now. When you restart you have to go to change start up settings then choose option 7, that will allow you to start without driver signature enforcment.

yes it is a convoluted pain in the butt.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> the9quad, for fun you should also show your performance with SLI/CF disabled and at 2-way.


that doesn't sound like fun to me lol. turning off cfx never goes smoothly on my pc.


----------



## Rawkiller

he cant because it would show what Blizz said is true.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> you have to go to the charms bar>settings>change pc settings>update & recovery>recovery>advance startup>restart now. When you restart you have to go to change start up settings then choose option 7, that will allow you to start without driver signature enforcment.
> 
> yes it is a convoluted pain in the butt.


I got it thanks!

So I installed the driver, it shows up right now. But how do I overclock the MHZ now? Do I have to do a custom resolution in NVIDIA CONTROL PANEL?

Won't that make so it won't show the overclocked MHZ in my games though?

Also, is the advantage of doing it this way that you no longer have to unpatch - repatch everytime a new nvidia driver comes out?

Thanks!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawkiller*
> 
> I guess I just don't belong. I know computers too. I know what using the gpu monitor does. I can plainly see WOW doesn't use both cores equal or to 100% . I also can read. I can see the devs say they aren't going to code the game to make it use the functions of SLI... Get mad at me if you like, or go read what Blizz said. Why does that make me a bad guy?


How old are you?

No offense but you need to learn how to use a web forum.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rawkiller*
> 
> he cant because it would show what Blizz said is true.


In the interest of giving you what you want here ya go:

oh and btw, the last one i posted I didnt realize i had vsync on, turned it off and lo and behold:

1 card: 70 fps
2 cards 155 fps
3 cards 220 fps.

seems to be working just fine to me, in fact that almost seems to be 100% scaling on all 3 cards, I'd almost call that full benefits of Crossfire if blizzard didn't say it was impossible....

I understand that it stings a little to be wrong, so I will understand if you don't acknowledge this post.

http://imageshack.com/a/img538/3918/***4Xw.png



















links
http://imageshack.com/a/img538/3918/***4Xw.png
http://imageshack.com/a/img540/5915/DpY8Wx.png
http://imageshack.com/a/img631/4715/PvrxIJ.png


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> Something like this one
> 
> http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/monitors/LS27A850DS/ZA


so basically we all saved a lot of money. And not just some money. That's less than half price


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> so basically we all saved a lot of money. And not just some money. That's less than half price


Yes we sold our warranties. It works out OK usually. Sometimes not.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> so basically we all saved a lot of money. And not just some money. That's less than half price


That price really isn't up to date anymore. I've seen the Samsung 850D drop as low as €450.

Edit:
And here it is: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MO-206-SA

£320 converts to €425. Should be roughly $425 considering we have vat included.


----------



## electro2u

The great thing about these: even if they don't overclock at all, single input monitors have very low input lag. Then they overclock too =p


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Also, big heads up. No overclocking patch is needed for owners of the Nvidia GTX 780ti. Use nvidia custom control panel.
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by BGKris View Post
> 
> Just so everyone's aware. You don't need to patch at all with 780ti's in SLI.
> Quote:
> (05-03-2014 04:25 PM)VAL Wrote:
> 780 Ti GPUs don't need the patch at all if you're using the NVIDIA Control Panel to add custom resolutions. The regular patch is needed if you use CRU instead.
> Step 2
> Update: Single nvidia card owners are now recommended to NOT use CRU. Instead use the NvCP and the qnix drivers linked directly below.
> QNIX monitor driver for Nvidia (Instructions inside)
> QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file


Can someone explain this to me? I was under the impression that custom resolutions don't show up in full screen games so you needed CRU with the patch?

Thanks!


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Can someone explain this to me? I was under the impression that custom resolutions don't show up in full screen games so you needed CRU with the patch?
> 
> Thanks!


Without knowing your system, it's hard to figure out what you need explained.
Since your quotes were about the GTX 780Ti, I'll address your question based on that.

I currently have two 780Ti GPUs in SLI, I don't use CRU, or the QNIX patch/driver. I simply use Nvidia control panel. For me, custom resolutions work fine in games. BF4, Tomb Raider, Eliteangerous, COD:AW all work fine.

Older Nvidia GPUs (GTX 5xx series for example), and I believe AMD GPUs (Don't quote me on this part,I'm mainly an Nvidia user), need CRU.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Without knowing your system, it's hard to figure out what you need explained.
> Since your quotes were about the GTX 780Ti, I'll address your question based on that.
> 
> I currently have two 780Ti GPUs in SLI, I don't use CRU, or the QNIX patch/driver. I simply use Nvidia control panel. For me, custom resolutions work fine in games. BF4, Tomb Raider, Eliteangerous, COD:AW all work fine.
> 
> Older Nvidia GPUs (GTX 5xx series for example), and I believe AMD GPUs (Don't quote me on this part,I'm mainly an Nvidia user), need CRU.


Correct, I have a 780TI.

I also am setting this up on a 660TI.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The great thing about these: even if they don't overclock at all, single input monitors have very low input lag. Then they overclock too =p


Never said they're better value, just saying they're not as expensive as they used to be









If I wanted a 60Hz 1440p IPS monitor i would go for the €275 Dell U2515H.


----------



## emsj86

Qnix or yamaski 2b extreme. Same price on new egg just wondering what one to get


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Never said they're better value, just saying they're not as expensive as they used to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I wanted a 60Hz 1440p IPS monitor i would go for the €275 Dell U2515H.


Can't get em in gloss, waste of money. Washed out colors FTL


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> Can't get em in gloss, waste of money. Washed out colors FTL


+1
I miss my Gloss Qnix. Currently have the ROG Swift and even the light AG it has is driving me nuts!


----------



## marmagas

Hi there!I am ready to pull the trigger in 2 of these Korean monitors to use in eyefinity along with my Dell2711 ultrasharp.
They will be the flanks so i dont care too much about oc but my main concern is price.
Which of these 27 inch korean are the cheapest and which seller do you propose for posting to Greece?
Thanks!!!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhotonFanatic*
> 
> Can't get em in gloss, waste of money. Washed out colors FTL


I would never get a gloss monitor, reflections suck. And sadly there's no place where I can put my desk where this isn't a problem. Semi-matte coating is the best option for most people I think.


----------



## bluedevil

Anyone know of a good sound bar for a qnix?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Anyone know of a good sound bar for a qnix?


Does it have to be a soundbar? They're pretty meh in general.

And budget?


----------



## emsj86

Can someone shortly explain the reason getting a 320-375 qnix or Yamasaki is better than Asus pb278q at 420-475. I know price but what monitor is better for games like bf4, dayz , h1z1


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Can someone shortly explain the reason getting a 320-375 qnix or Yamasaki is better than Asus pb278q at 420-475. I know price but what monitor is better for games like bf4, dayz , h1z1


One word: overclocking

You are pretty much assured of getting 96Hz out of a single input Qnix, but you are stuck with 60 Hz with the Asus.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Does it have to be a soundbar? They're pretty meh in general.
> 
> And budget?


P

It doesn't have to be....just thinking about replacing my Big Jambox.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> P
> 
> It doesn't have to be....just thinking about replacing my Big Jambox.


I would just go for a 2.1 system or a pair of powered studio monitors. Will get you a lot more bang for your buck than a soundbar.

Which ones depends on your budget, there's plenty of choice out there.


----------



## emsj86

How would you say the ghosting and lag is say compared to a normal 1080p 60hz monitor ? I've read so much and so hard to choose. Whe. I bought my gpu I knew what it would give me and that it would come perfect if not could be Rma easy. Right now I have a few choices. Go all out and overpay and get the swift and be set for awhile, Asus pb278q better quality control I know what I'm getting, qnix and a vesa mount , or go get the 2b extreme. What would you
Choose? Sorry for so many questions. But monitors to me our something that you get to last awhile. Unlike Gpus which I update year to year. Thanks in advance. If I do get a Korean what stand and what's the best Korean monitor to get. I plan to oc to at least 96hz and hope it's smooth. I'm ising a Asus. 144hz 1080 now


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> How would you say the ghosting and lag is say compared to a normal 1080p 60hz monitor ? I've read so much and so hard to choose. Whe. I bought my gpu I knew what it would give me and that it would come perfect if not could be Rma easy. Right now I have a few choices. Go all out and overpay and get the swift and be set for awhile, Asus pb278q better quality control I know what I'm getting, qnix and a vesa mount , or go get the 2b extreme. What would you
> Choose? Sorry for so many questions. But monitors to me our something that you get to last awhile. Unlike Gpus which I update year to year. Thanks in advance. If I do get a Korean what stand and what's the best Korean monitor to get. I plan to oc to at least 96hz and hope it's smooth. I'm ising a Asus. 144hz 1080 now


Well if you care about QC and RMA's there are quite a few 1440p 120/144hz IPS monitors coming from Asus and Acer. I would wait of for those (but ofc they will come at a price premium).

As for the Korean's, I have an Qnix at 96Hz, and I would say the ghosting is fine for me, but I'm not a twitchy fps gamer. So take my opinion with a grain of salt.

The cheapest solution for a good adjustable stand are second hand dell stands with a vesa adapter I think, you can find them on Ebay really cheaply. Do keep in mind that you need to open the entire monitor casing to remove the stand from the Korean monitors. (but its not like you had a warranty in the first place







)


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What would you choose?


The single input Korean monitors and new version of the PB278Q/PB278QR are delay free, but the Qnix/X-Star ghost considerably more than the AHVA PB278Q, especially the the new panels which use pathetically low PWM frequencies (PWM Side Effects). The Yamakasi is significantly faster than the current Qnix/X-Star. The PB278Q also has considerably better colour presets than the new Qnix/X-Star, and is a bit better than the Yamakasi, but it can't overclock. PWM Blur:



The 144hz 1080p Asus monitors use PWM, so if you aren't bothered by it then the Qnix/X-Star will be an upgrade image quality wise while the Yamakasi will look better and look clearer when displaying tearing free (depends on frame rates, movie playback software+Windows Aero) content.


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I would never get a gloss monitor, reflections suck. And sadly there's no place where I can put my desk where this isn't a problem. Semi-matte coating is the best option for most people I think.


Its fairly easy to control your lighting if you really try. I don't have a problem doing it. I love my gloss and the benefits it offers over matte and semi


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The single input Korean monitors and new version of the PB278Q/PB278QR are delay free, but the Qnix/X-Star ghost considerably more than the AHVA PB278Q, especially the the new panels which use pathetically low PWM frequencies (PWM Side Effects). The Yamakasi is significantly faster than the current Qnix/X-Star. The PB278Q also has considerably better colour presets than the new Qnix/X-Star, and is a bit better than the Yamakasi, but it can't overclock. PWM Blur:
> 
> 
> 
> The 144hz 1080p Asus monitors use PWM, so if you aren't bothered by it then the Qnix/X-Star will be an upgrade visually wise while the Yamakasi will look better and look clearer when displaying tearing free (depends on framerates, movie playback software+Windows Aero) content.


Now if I can only find a pmace that sells the ahva Asus monitors. If not seems yamaski may best bet. because I don't want much ghosting. Does any USA seller have this panel?


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I would never get a gloss monitor, reflections suck. And sadly there's no place where I can put my desk where this isn't a problem. Semi-matte coating is the best option for most people I think.


Not if they want color quality.


----------



## RemagCP

Hey MenacingTuba, what is your opinion on these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f

Thanks


----------



## Obrigado

one question....

i have an overlord running @96/120hz but many games do not run at the hz of custom resolution....

with my last 120hz monitor yes, and in the driver i had an option "force maximum refresh" for the games....

any advice for run games @ my desired speed?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Now if I can only find a pmace that sells the ahva Asus monitors. If not seems yamaski may best bet. because I don't want much ghosting. Does any USA seller have this panel?


A few people from the PB278Q thread received new versions from Amazon. Most popular retailers should have the new version, you have access to plenty of stores with hassle free return and exchange polices (look up stores return policies...Amazon, Best Buy, Microcenter, Staples, B & H Photo, ect all offer hassle free return policies) and the 1st post of the PB278Q explains how to tell the versions apart.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RemagCP*
> 
> Hey MenacingTuba, what is your opinion on these?


Did you read the item description?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Off Grade Item Description*
> Off-grade panels have some defects on the panel.
> *Warranty exception : All defects about the Panel quality
> Ex) Tinted Spot on the black color background, Defective Pixels, Back-light bleeding.


----------



## undauntedone

I bought the Qnix QHD version: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321590995266?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT under the premise that it was in fact overclockable because they advertised it as such, and that I needed a 1440p monitor in that price range that could potentially reach 120 hz (96hz at least). I hadn't read this thread beforehand (silly of me to do), otherwise I would have went with the Evolution II and been pleasantly pleased! The QHD model I have can't reach overclocks of more than 70 hz without screen tearing unfortunately. The monitor itself is very nice, I just bought it under the impression that it would, in fact, overclock. I have an Acer XB280HK for my 4k gaming at 60hz, and wanted the 1440p one for games like CS:GO while I wasn't using the Acer, so I have no real need for a monitor that can't even reach overclocks above 70hz.

What would you guys do? Do I have any grounds on Ebay to return it for a refund due to false advertising? Did I just get unlucky and this QHD model can in fact overclock, just not the one I received? I'd go with the 144hz 1440p Asus, but the Acer already took up a big chunk of my wallet. I'd appreciate any advice given







!


----------



## vtsimple

My qnix is being held hostage in the UPS warehouse..... 1/30 - 2/05 ....... pls come


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vtsimple*
> 
> My qnix is being held hostage in the UPS warehouse..... 1/30 - 2/05 ....... pls come


----------



## Syraz

My X-Star is set to arrive Monday! I didnt even make it a year at 1080p









also found a great deal on an awesome 3M stand for 197$ off so paid 30$ which should be here Tuesday


----------



## takaogunz

Help! Which to purchase?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUI44US/?tag=ufoghost-20
Most popular and recommended one, 187 reviews and is 349$.

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-Off-grade-2560x1440-Monitor/dp/B00QUM9L84/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1423199158&sr=1-14&keywords=2560x1440+monitor#Ask
Same monitor I believe, but "off-grade". I'm quite sure that means it has more defects of some sort, but all the reviews were good. 210$ (It's also a popular purchase on ebay)

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-Glossy/dp/B00OCUTGMM/ref=sr_1_2?tag=ufoghost-20
Difference is Glossy rather than Matte type screen, 310$.

Should I buy the 210$ one or shell out 140$ more for the popular one? What's the difference?
Is amazon, newegg, or ebay a more reliable vendor if there are huge issues and I need to send it back?

Thanks a ton. I decided to purchase an IPS because I won't be playing FPS games and will be mainly using the desktop to watch movies and such. However, it's kind of a difficult choice.

To play Dark Souls 2 at max settings on a 1080 resolution, I could probably get away with using a 600$ build.
To play Dark Souls 2 at max settings on a 1440 resolution, I would probably have to use a 1000$ build.

Then again, skimping on a new desktop and getting a 1080 monitor+r9 270 gpu+ i3 4150 cpu seems kind of like it'll kill the enjoyment.
Or I could get a r9 290 with an i5 4690k(or maybe get a locked mobo+cpu bundle for 50$ discount)
Then for mouse+mechanical keyboard, I'll probably get a Ttesports saphira(50$) and a Ttesports Meka(100$).

Any advice?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

I'm running into some trouble with overclocking my monitor.

My monitor is capable of OCing to 120hz and I've used it at that setting for a good part of a year. I was running a R9 290 paired with an i5-3570k.

Recently, I reformatted everything, added a second R9-290 and still using the same CPU. I followed the steps as I did in the past. I updated to the latest stable catalyst driver, patched everything, and then ran CRU. I highlighted the default setting on the list inside cru (60hz), clicked "add", and just changed the refresh rate to 96hz. From there, I restarted my PC but CCC doesn't let me choose 96Hz. I only see 60 for some reason.

Any help will be appreciated.


----------



## TheoLas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syraz*
> 
> My X-Star is set to arrive Monday! I didnt even make it a year at 1080p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also found a great deal on an awesome 3M stand for 197$ off so paid 30$ which should be here Tuesday


Can you please post a link to that stand?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PillarOfAutumn*
> 
> I'm running into some trouble with overclocking my monitor.
> 
> My monitor is capable of OCing to 120hz and I've used it at that setting for a good part of a year. I was running a R9 290 paired with an i5-3570k.
> 
> Recently, I reformatted everything, added a second R9-290 and still using the same CPU. I followed the steps as I did in the past. I updated to the latest stable catalyst driver, patched everything, and then ran CRU. I highlighted the default setting on the list inside cru (60hz), clicked "add", and just changed the refresh rate to 96hz. From there, I restarted my PC but CCC doesn't let me choose 96Hz. I only see 60 for some reason.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated.


I think I had that happen once and I fixed it by moving the 96Hz profile to the top of the list in CRU. Maybe, it's been a while...

Can you post a CRU screenshot?


----------



## PillarOfAutumn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I think I had that happen once and I fixed it by moving the 96Hz profile to the top of the list in CRU. Maybe, it's been a while...
> 
> Can you post a CRU screenshot?


Yeah I played around with the order and it did nothing. I also switched to display out ports and still nothing, even after updating CRU. However...now this is EXTREMELY weird...what I did find was that after I unplug the DVI cable and put it back in, the higher refresh rates were suddenly visible in CCC.

So...everytime I restart my PC, I need to unplug and plug the DVI cable in for CCC to recognize the higher refresh rates. It will do for now, but I think it's going to get annoying after a while. Better this than nothing.


----------



## fisher6

How does it work if I wanna update my Nvidia drivers. Can I just update if my screen is overclocked?


----------



## Syraz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoLas*
> 
> Can you please post a link to that stand?


Looks like it went back up







http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/571642/3M-MA240MB-Adjustable-Monitor-Arm-Desk/


----------



## LandonAaron

Looking to buy one of the Qnix 2710 monitors from newegg, but am a little confused about the options. As far as I can understand there are only 4 different models the Mate or Glossy, and then Pixel Perfect of either. Yet Newegg has something like 20 different ones to choose from priced anywhere from $299 to $399, and whats even more strange they are all from the same seller (MNW Global). I am thinking of just getting the one with the most ratings, a $345 matte finish one with 64 reviews and a 5 egg rating, but there is a $335 matte one which seems identical, and then there is a $315 Perfect Pixel Glossy one, which obviously sounds better and is $30 less but has no reviews.


----------



## playboysmoov

Hey guys I bought the QNIX2710 Evolution II SE close to a year ago......My daughter came in and start fidgeting with the buttons. Do you know if there is a way to reset the monitor to factory settings?


----------



## TBoogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TBoogie*
> 
> Has anyone tried a Dell 2707WFPc stand for their QX2710? Saw one for $5 at the local surplus so I picked it up. Haven't hooked it on yet, though. Need a stretch of time in which I can disassemble the whole damn thing to remove the existing stand and post.
> 
> It's got tilt and height adjustment, so I'm thinking it has potential. Plus it was originally made for a 27" monitor. I'll post up pics when I get it on.


So I finally got a chance to pop the panel off and remove the original stand stub. It really wasn't that hard at all. Took about an hour, but some of that time was spent fixing a bit of backlight bleed in the left corner.

The original stand post wasn't even on straight.


The screen already had electrical tape along the perimeter. I added a bit more in the bottom left corner and along the right side (the screen was shifted ever so slightly in that direction inside the case). I also noticed that the front panel had a tiny plastic burr in the inside where it sits against the screen in that troublesome left corner. I ground it down with some fine grit sandpaper.


The stand fits! Lucked out with 100mm x 100mm Vesa compatible holes in the stand. Although the stand has height adjustment, the QNIX monitor must weigh considerably less than the Dell monitor this stand was meant for. I can adjust the height, but rises right back to the top. Fortunately for me, that happens to be at precisely eye-level.


Gained some height, and added about 10 lbs to the total weight. Feels quite sturdy now. You can't tell from this image, but the backlight bleed I was experiencing is now gone!


Thanks to those intrepid individuals who paved the way and documented their QNIX dis-assembly here, I was able to do the same. Great thread! I'm loving this monitor and greatly appreciate the informative posts!


----------



## Natorius

I tried searching through the thread and through Google for solutions but I couldn't find anything that fits my situation.

I got my qx2710 earlier today. The box was undamaged and the monitor looks fine too.

Upon hooking up the monitor I was unable to make the computer extend/duplicate/display anything onto the Qnix.

I'm using a laptop with a Geforce 675MX if that means anything. It does have a dual link dvi output. My old Asus monitor works just fine with that output with the same cable that the Qnix came with.

When I hook the DVI cable up the Nvidia Control Panel disappears from the right click context menu and immediately reappears when I unplug it.

When I am booting up I get a dark screen with horizontal green lines. When I am messing with my Windows 8 boot up options the computer goes through what looks like testing colors that it flashes through, occasionally flashing the screen I'm on but very blurred and only for a split second.

I have tried reeinstalling drivers etc etc. I have no other DVI cable to try and I do not have another computer that has a DVI output I can try.

Is there anything else I can do? Could it possibly be the cable? I attached pictures of what it looks like when I am looking at the Windows 8 boot up options, this is the only time I can get the monitor to even flash anything for the most part.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syraz*
> 
> Looks like it went back up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/571642/3M-MA240MB-Adjustable-Monitor-Arm-Desk/


Even better price! Won't last long at this price!!

http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/571498/3M-MA260MB-Adjustable-Dual-Monitor-Arm/?cm_mmc=Affiliates-_-CJ-_-1122587-_-11272891

$49 with this code

*14481069*


----------



## Syraz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Even better price! Won't last long at this price!!
> 
> http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/571498/3M-MA260MB-Adjustable-Dual-Monitor-Arm/?cm_mmc=Affiliates-_-CJ-_-1122587-_-11272891
> 
> $49 with this code
> 
> *14481069*


Wow dont know if these are errors or super flash sales..great deals!!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Even better price! Won't last long at this price!!
> 
> http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/571498/3M-MA260MB-Adjustable-Dual-Monitor-Arm/?cm_mmc=Affiliates-_-CJ-_-1122587-_-11272891


No shipping to Europe sadly, that's one insane bargain if true.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natorius*
> 
> I tried searching through the thread and through Google for solutions but I couldn't find anything that fits my situation.
> 
> I got my qx2710 earlier today. The box was undamaged and the monitor looks fine too.
> 
> Upon hooking up the monitor I was unable to make the computer extend/duplicate/display anything onto the Qnix.
> 
> I'm using a laptop with a Geforce 675MX if that means anything. It does have a dual link dvi output. My old Asus monitor works just fine with that output with the same cable that the Qnix came with.
> 
> When I hook the DVI cable up the Nvidia Control Panel disappears from the right click context menu and immediately reappears when I unplug it.
> 
> When I am booting up I get a dark screen with horizontal green lines. When I am messing with my Windows 8 boot up options the computer goes through what looks like testing colors that it flashes through, occasionally flashing the screen I'm on but very blurred and only for a split second.
> 
> I have tried reeinstalling drivers etc etc. I have no other DVI cable to try and I do not have another computer that has a DVI output I can try.
> 
> Is there anything else I can do? Could it possibly be the cable? I attached pictures of what it looks like when I am looking at the Windows 8 boot up options, this is the only time I can get the monitor to even flash anything for the most part.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I doubt it's the cable. Even though your laptop has DL DVI, that doesn't mean it has the data rate required for these monitors. Do you have a DisplayPort connection on the laptop? If you do, you might consider using a powered DP to DVI adaptor. Some of the cheaper ones don't work (they don't have the data throughput needed), and give the screen similar to what you showed. If you search this forum for DP to DVI, there have been several discussions about them that might help.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *playboysmoov*
> 
> Hey guys I bought the QNIX2710 Evolution II SE close to a year ago......My daughter came in and start fidgeting with the buttons. Do you know if there is a way to reset the monitor to factory settings?


If its the single input (DVI) model, there is only brightness control (+ / -), so nothing would have messed the settings other than that. You could bring the brightness all the way down, then push the + button 12 times and it should bring things back to 'normal' (around 130 cd/m2).


----------



## Natorius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I doubt it's the cable. Even though your laptop has DL DVI, that doesn't mean it has the data rate required for these monitors. Do you have a DisplayPort connection on the laptop? If you do, you might consider using a powered DP to DVI adaptor. Some of the cheaper ones don't work (they don't have the data throughput needed), and give the screen similar to what you showed. If you search this forum for DP to DVI, there have been several discussions about them that might help.


I do not unfortunately. I am on a laptop.

My video card(GTX 675MX) specifically mentions that it has dual link DVI capability up to and over 1440p though which was why I thought it'd work.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natorius*
> 
> I do not unfortunately. I am on a laptop.
> 
> My video card(GTX 675MX) specifically mentions that it has dual link DVI capability up to and over 1440p though which was why I thought it'd work.


My wifes laptop has a DP connection that works with these monitors (with the powered adaptor I talked about). Without knowing the model of laptop you have, I have no way of knowing what connections it has.
As for the DL DVI port, her laptop has that too, and it doesn't support these monitors, which is why I tried the DP to DVI. I don't recall anyone having any luck with these monitors using DVI on a laptop. Have you tried searching this forum for "laptop"?


----------



## Natorius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> My wifes laptop has a DP connection that works with these monitors (with the powered adaptor I talked about). Without knowing the model of laptop you have, I have no way of knowing what connections it has.
> As for the DL DVI port, her laptop has that too, and it doesn't support these monitors, which is why I tried the DP to DVI. I don't recall anyone having any luck with these monitors using DVI on a laptop. Have you tried searching this forum for "laptop"?


I tried the monitor with a friends desktop and it worked fine.

I think I am going to give up on getting it to work with my laptop. From what I was able to gather the hardware connection is wired through the integrated card on my laptop that uses Optimus so even though the video card can support the Intel graphics wont send the signal.

Now it is just a matter of deciding to build a computer now or more likely wait to see what the 300 series has to offer.


----------



## emsj86

Anyone coming from a. 120/144hx 1080 can weigh in on how 96/120hz feels on this monitor? Does oc really make it smooth on these monitors and is it better than the name brand 60hz 1440p thanks in advance


----------



## electro2u

I had a 120hz 1080p monitor (fg2421) and went to a 1440p 120hz Catleap. Big difference in terms of motion blur on fast moving panning and scrolling. Similar big jump in smoothness from 60hz 1440p to 120hz on an IPS. It's much better but still blurry compared to a fast "gaming" monitor, especially one that strobes.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TBoogie*
> 
> So I finally got a chance to pop the panel off and remove the original stand stub. It really wasn't that hard at all. Took about an hour, but some of that time was spent fixing a bit of backlight bleed in the left corner.
> 
> The original stand post wasn't even on straight.
> 
> 
> The screen already had electrical tape along the perimeter. I added a bit more in the bottom left corner and along the right side (the screen was shifted ever so slightly in that direction inside the case). I also noticed that the front panel had a tiny plastic burr in the inside where it sits against the screen in that troublesome left corner. I ground it down with some fine grit sandpaper.
> 
> 
> The stand fits! Lucked out with 100mm x 100mm Vesa compatible holes in the stand. Although the stand has height adjustment, the QNIX monitor must weigh considerably less than the Dell monitor this stand was meant for. I can adjust the height, but rises right back to the top. Fortunately for me, that happens to be at precisely eye-level.
> 
> 
> Gained some height, and added about 10 lbs to the total weight. Feels quite sturdy now. You can't tell from this image, but the backlight bleed I was experiencing is now gone!
> 
> 
> Thanks to those intrepid individuals who paved the way and documented their QNIX dis-assembly here, I was able to do the same. Great thread! I'm loving this monitor and greatly appreciate the informative posts!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TBoogie*
> 
> So I finally got a chance to pop the panel off and remove the original stand stub. It really wasn't that hard at all. Took about an hour, but some of that time was spent fixing a bit of backlight bleed in the left corner.
> 
> The original stand post wasn't even on straight.
> 
> 
> The screen already had electrical tape along the perimeter. I added a bit more in the bottom left corner and along the right side (the screen was shifted ever so slightly in that direction inside the case). I also noticed that the front panel had a tiny plastic burr in the inside where it sits against the screen in that troublesome left corner. I ground it down with some fine grit sandpaper.
> 
> 
> The stand fits! Lucked out with 100mm x 100mm Vesa compatible holes in the stand. Although the stand has height adjustment, the QNIX monitor must weigh considerably less than the Dell monitor this stand was meant for. I can adjust the height, but rises right back to the top. Fortunately for me, that happens to be at precisely eye-level.
> 
> 
> Gained some height, and added about 10 lbs to the total weight. Feels quite sturdy now. You can't tell from this image, but the backlight bleed I was experiencing is now gone!
> 
> 
> Thanks to those intrepid individuals who paved the way and documented their QNIX dis-assembly here, I was able to do the same. Great thread! I'm loving this monitor and greatly appreciate the informative posts!


Wonderful! Great work








than have you totally fixed the BLB?


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Has anyone fried their QX2710 by OCing it ?

Anybody know the long term effects of running them OCed ? I'm ordering 1 today/overnight


----------



## OkanG

I see in the first post that a whopping 46% of buyers have reported that they can OC to 120Hz. This depresses me a little, as I can't overclock mine past 100Hz, so I keep it at 96Hz.

To the guys @120Hz, have you done anything to acquire such a high frequency? More Hz really means a lot to me, and I'm willing to try anything. I know _sometimes_ a better quality DVI cable can make a difference, but how many people have actually seen improvements there? And what else is there to do? I'd really appreciate some advice, I'd love to squeeze a little more smoothness out of my gaimz.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Even better price! Won't last long at this price!!
> 
> http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/571498/3M-MA260MB-Adjustable-Dual-Monitor-Arm/?cm_mmc=Affiliates-_-CJ-_-1122587-_-11272891
> 
> $49 with this code
> 
> *14481069*


Thank you for posting this. I have been wanting a dual monitor stand for a while, but have always been put off by the insanely high prices. I'll post back once I receive mine.


----------



## Syraz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Thank you for posting this. I have been wanting a dual monitor stand for a while, but have always been put off by the insanely high prices. I'll post back once I receive mine.


Glad you were able to get it..It didnt last long at all like the single arm one at 29.99$


----------



## TBoogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Wonderful! Great work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> than have you totally fixed the BLB?


Yes, it's completely gone! It was only noticeable when the screen was true black anyway, and then only in a limited space in the lower left corner. Smoothing out the inside of the bezel lip fixed the problem. Overall, I am very happy with this monitor.


----------



## Syraz

Tex Syndicate just released a latency test with some korean monitors. Xstar IPS and AHVA screens and other korean monitors


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yes that's the one!
> Always look for PLS (not AH-VA) "panel type" in the title.
> 
> Look for *"Single-Input"* only! ... Most reputable ebay sellers will list it as ...
> Description --> Item Specifics --> *Video Inputs: DVI (Dual Link), Audio (In / Out)* ... only!
> (see just below the auction/ship title info)
> 
> Any *"multi-input"* variation [Multi True10 / DPmulti True10] is not overclockable beyond 85Hz (see update below) without frame dropping! In the pic below, only the "QX2710 LED Evolution II" (left side) is OC'able (96Hz+), even though the other 2 models "FALSELY" advertise they will OC to 120Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Proof ... *HERE* Digitalforce ... *HERE
> *
> 
> 
> *UPDATES ...* This also applies to all *X-Star DP2710* AH-VA multi-input models as well!
> 
> *"SE" Models* ... my take on this comes directly from QNIX Korean reps ...
> The "SE" models = "Second Edition", they started coming out 1st qtr this year and have a less stringent QC. Allowed pixel defects will be less stringent if they are even fully tested to begin with ... it varies from seller to seller ... so read the fine print before buying!
> This would only relate to the panels pixel quality and would not effect the PCB or OC ability whatsoever. I also don't think you'll ever find an "SE" model with a "Pixel Perfect" option? Note: we have seen plenty of SE models with no pixel defects AS reported by the user. If I had a choice though I'd always pick the NON SE model 1st!
> 
> This also coincides with many of us not seeing any noticeable benefit in paying a premium for a "Pixel Perfect". The Korean suppliers are all over the place on their pixel guarantees so unless you get it in writing pre-purchase with exactly what you expect, this includes Return Shipping (appx $150 US) most of them won't pay it unless you can make a strong case! ... I don't see the value in "Pixel Perfect". I'd take that difference and put it toward a square trade warranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit: 7/12/14* ... Latest proof that the recent new claims by "accessorieswhole" multi-input True10 SE model with the new OC PCB/Board now overclocks without frame dropping are *FALSE!*
> See my comments *HERE)*
> 
> *EDIT: True10 OC Update - 8/20/14 ... 11-12-14 both models OC* ...
> We now have preliminary proof that the both True10 Multi models ... WILL OC to 85Hz, but only when connected to the Dual DVI port! ... see *HDMI HERE* ... *DisplayPort HERE* It's the model in the middle and far right in the above screenshot ...
> *96Hz and higher still produces Major "Frame Dropping"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Also* there is no cure for the noticeable input lag compared to the QNIX single-input/PLS in FPS gaming due to the "scaler" inherent in the True10 models ... see comments/graph *HERE* (1/2 way down the post)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *** Yaz also gives an updated breakdown of the True10's drawbacks including AH-VA panel is slightly inferior to the PLS panel! ... see *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally it looks like some True10 models also have the *PWM Dimming* problem as expanded upon by MenacingTuba ...
> *HERE* and *HERE* ...
> 
> *Frame Dropping* @ 96Hz-120Hz will look like this ... PROOF *HERE
> *
> 
> 
> 
> ===================================================================
> At 110Hz it looks like you have changed the NVCP stock timings as they should read 443.1152 pixel clock. See my screenie below.
> Note: Those timings also allow the gpu ram to properly downclock @ the desktop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try the 110Hz timings above, you may have to do a clean install of your drivers for a clean start in NVCP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @120Hz it is obvious to me you tried the "tighter" timings and there may not be much more you can do there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @100Hz I don't have a profile for that (only 96Hz) but lets take one step at a time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As the OP is being updated, you may find my post/links *[HERE]* of some use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets also not forget to THANK OP *"wntrsnowg"* for starting this invaluable thread and devoting extra time to updating it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS ... please fill in your system specs (see my sig) it makes it easier/faster for troubleshooters to find something others might have overlooked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange your gpu ram doesn't properly downclock above 96Hz? ... maybe it is because of the full patch needed for Nvidia SLI, but IIRC Lawson (old GTX760? SLI) and others had no problems with [email protected] as long as they used NVCP stock timings, even though the pixel clock was a bit high @ 483.3984 ...see my pics/timings 110Hz above - 120Hz below ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: Lawson has done some great work with custom timings for AMD/CRU/gpu ram downclocking, but I'd try all NVCP stock timings 1st.


Good lord, I ordered a QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi True 10 AH-VA Panel with DVI and HDMI, because I didn't know any better. I hadn't paid yet, so I've asked dream-seller to cancel it. Sure hope that works out without a hassle.

I looked up "QX2710 Evolution II vs super QHD" since they were $20 difference and had read the Evo II was the name to look for to OC, just to double check. Not knowing ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^......wow

Sure hope I can get a PLS single input DVI with a matte /semi-gloss/anti-glare coating, for near the same price.


----------



## electro2u

Dream seller is very easy to work with. If you hadn't paid yet he will fix you up. So don't worry.


----------



## Syraz

I got the Xstar - Multi which gets delivered today. I watched what logan of Tek said about it, I like benqs ahva's so felt comfortable buying it knowing hot it performed and I have zero care about overclocking it


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

What about this qx2710 with only DVI input, but its listed as AH-VA ???????
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Super-QHD-2560x1440-DVI-Virtual-4K-Overclock-27-Computer-Monitor-/221610167753?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3398fecdc9

And what about Samsung WQHD ? I've seen some listings say PLS and WQHD, there's a lot of tech terms out there I'm new to

I want the best OCer I can afford, and with matte screen, please help people, so I can order this week (and not the wrong 1 again)

What about this X-Star that says Samsung PLS
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Tempered-Glass-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/321226150944?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aca921420

If thats the same good OCer, and comes in matte I'd get it (but thats glossy)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Dream seller is very easy to work with. If you hadn't paid yet he will fix you up. So don't worry.


hope so


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> Good lord, I ordered a QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi True 10 AH-VA Panel with DVI and HDMI, because I didn't know any better. I hadn't paid yet, so I've asked dream-seller to cancel it. Sure hope that works out without a hassle.
> 
> I looked up "QX2710 Evolution II vs super QHD" since they were $20 difference and had read the Evo II was the name to look for to OC, just to double check. Not knowing ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^......wow
> 
> Sure hope I can get a PLS single input DVI with a matte /semi-gloss/anti-glare coating, for near the same price.


I have the true 10 version and have my monitor overclocked to 85 hertz with no issues.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Anyone coming from a. 120/144hx 1080 can weigh in on how 96/120hz feels on this monitor? Does oc really make it smooth on these monitors and is it better than the name brand 60hz 1440p thanks in advance
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I had a 120hz 1080p monitor (fg2421) and went to a 1440p 120hz Catleap. Big difference in terms of motion blur on fast moving panning and scrolling. Similar big jump in smoothness from 60hz 1440p to 120hz on an IPS. It's much better but still blurry compared to a fast "gaming" monitor, especially one that strobes.
Click to expand...

This ^^^^ ... simple but accurate description. I might add that you really only notice the minor ghosting in fast-twitch competitive FPS ... many a ROG Swift owner has traded in their TN panel for IPS 1440p as the overall color/clarity was better and more enjoyable experience for them! It really comes down to personal preference/sensitivity, though I must admit I do miss my professional CRT (85Hz) at times but I'd have a very hard time ever going back to a TN panel









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> Has anyone fried their QX2710 by OCing it ?
> 
> Anybody know the long term effects of running them OCed ? I'm ordering 1 today/overnight


IMHO as the months, and now years go by, I'm pleasantly surprised at the lack of 120Hz owners reporting problems!
Although almost a year ago, some of us starting using 110Hz for desktop apps to remain within recommended pixel clock range, and only cranked 120Hz in game ... see *HERE*
Doesn't mean there haven't been some problems (PCB board) but very rarely if at all has anyone proven it was a cause of overclocking.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> I see in the first post that a whopping 46% of buyers have reported that they can OC to 120Hz. This depresses me a little, as I can't overclock mine past 100Hz, so I keep it at 96Hz.
> 
> To the guys @120Hz, have you done anything to acquire such a high frequency? More Hz really means a lot to me, and I'm willing to try anything. I know _sometimes_ a better quality DVI cable can make a difference, but how many people have actually seen improvements there? And what else is there to do? I'd really appreciate some advice, I'd love to squeeze a little more smoothness out of my gaimz.


120Hz stable overclockers do seem less attainable then the 2013 models, it's a lottery just like your CPU/GPU.
Some guys get lucky IMO with a cable change (maybe 20%?) but even then it usually isn't more than +5Hz ... maybe? as much as 10Hz? Personally I'd shop for a proven/tested 120Hz unit (open box or used) and sell my proven 96Hz unit as many are quite alright with a proven 96Hz and they bring an almost retail price, especially for a matte screen as they seem harder to get these days








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syraz*
> 
> Tex Syndicate just released a latency test with some korean monitors. Xstar IPS and AHVA screens and other korean monitors


Nice Link! +Rep for you









If I had any complaints I wish he would have made it clearer that the Samsung PLS (X-Star) was a single input and not to be confused with an AH-VA panel ... Also his definition of "Chemistry" needs to be more detailed and how it relates to what you experience on screen, although granted that was not to be part of the test.









Link us again when he does part 2








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> Good lord, I ordered a QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi True 10 AH-VA Panel with DVI and HDMI, because I didn't know any better. I hadn't paid yet, so I've asked dream-seller to cancel it. Sure hope that works out without a hassle.
> 
> I looked up "QX2710 Evolution II vs super QHD" since they were $20 difference and had read the Evo II was the name to look for to OC, just to double check. Not knowing ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^......wow
> 
> Sure hope I can get a PLS single input DVI with a matte /semi-gloss/anti-glare coating, for near the same price.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> What about this qx2710 with only DVI input, but its listed as AH-VA ???????
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-Super-QHD-2560x1440-DVI-Virtual-4K-Overclock-27-Computer-Monitor-/221610167753?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3398fecdc9
> 
> And what about Samsung WQHD ? I've seen some listings say PLS and WQHD, there's a lot of tech terms out there I'm new to
> 
> I want the best OCer I can afford, and with matte screen, please help people, so I can order this week (and not the wrong 1 again)
> 
> What about this X-Star that says Samsung PLS
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Tempered-Glass-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/321226150944?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aca921420
> 
> If thats the same good OCer, and comes in matte I'd get it (but thats glossy)
> hope so
Click to expand...

YEP! ... We should have the pitfalls of the True10 multi-input AH-VA panel in bigger/brighter/bolder type in the OP









Your 1st link ... I'd stay away from ... I've never seen a listing for an AH-VA virtual 4K @30Hz model with a single dual DVI input, AND even then I doubt it would OC without dropping frames, if at all. Their small picture shows a single-input BUT down below in the fine print [How to enable 4K - Nvidia ... it says use DVI OR Display Port] ... WHAT









Your second link ... refers to a "Tempered Glass" ... it's not even a true "Glossy", it's the worst of all worlds, trust me (highly reflective with duller/grey blacks) or search my posts around 6mos ago? ... BUT if you remove the tempered glass (easy disassembly) there is a very good chance it is a Matte screen underneath AND it is probably one of the earlier models that seem to have a higher percentage "chance?" of reaching 120Hz ...

To be on the safe side a quick search on ebay showed *THIS* overclockable Matte finish for $339 from a fairly reputable dealer ... try and get dream-sellar to match it if you can't get your money back ... good luck let us know how it all turns out, including OC results









On a personal observation ... it's just crazy how the superior (IMO) Glossy panels are Now cheaper and more readily available to the Matte panels compared to a year ago ... BUT PWM? let's not go there unless


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> To be on the safe side a quick search on ebay showed *THIS* overclockable Matte finish for $339 from a fairly reputable dealer ... try and get dream-sellar to match it if you can't get your money back ... good luck let us know how it all turns out, including OC results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a personal observation ... it's just crazy how the superior (IMO) Glossy panels are Now cheaper and more readily available to the Matte panels compared to a year ago ... BUT PWM? let's not go there unless


Yeah I've narrowed it down to a handful including x-star DP2710 that say Samsung PLS and only list DVI input. I'm waiting for gdseller2014 to see if its a matte or glossy, thats the cheapest 1 so far thats not "off-grade". But that guy doesn't offer the 1-year warranty or free returns if DOA.

Dam I'd get a cheaper glossy, but without testing it, I'm sure it would annoy me too much like my TV used to from a little light.

MUST RESIST URGE TO GET OFF-GRADE FOR $300 CAD vs glossy @ $390 vs confirmed matte @ $450







, that would put back getting a 2nd r9 290 well into spring, and 8GB ram and a bigger SSD near summer


----------



## emsj86

So tempted to buy one of these. Can't seem to find any open box or used ones that or proven to not have any or little defects. Feel more confident doing it that way. Any luck with off grades. A few dead pixels in corners wouldn't bother me much middle of screen different story


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

I read through the ratings of accessorieswhole looking for 'off grade' and maybe +85% (just a guess, I never counted ) said they were happy, or at least never mentioned a problem. But there was really only about 30-40 (just a guess) of peole that where listed in the 1st 1400 replies for all his things sold. 1 guy said he had horizontal lines when the screen was dark. That was the worst one I saw. a few said they had dead/stuck/bright pixels, bacllight bleeding, those types. 1 guy had a chip out of it somewhere, someone else complained about the stand, which are bad anyways.

They start about 80% cheaper, must be for a reason. If the typical Samsung PLS in a qx2710 is A-, maybe these are the Bs ??????? I don't mind a 5 pixels having problems, but lines, or tinted areas, or bad light bleeding, that would bother too much.

But yeah I'm pretty tempted myself


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Anyone know where I can get a matte, perfect pixel 27" panel for about $300? I don't see any on eBay or Amazon.

I saw them on eBay all the time a while ago. I wanted one then but didn't want to spend the money. Now I do but all the perfect pixel panels are ~$350. I need perfect pixel, if the monitor I get has any dead pixels I will hate it..

Glossy perfect panels are $300 but I'm not sure if I will like it. I've never had a glossy monitor before. If it's not too bad I wouldn't mind, but I have a feeling it'd look out of place next to my two matte panels.


----------



## Ovrclck

Funny how we all were scrambling to find the original glossy's a while back and now it's matte


----------



## Syraz

So Monitor showed up this morning as I fell asleep. The UPS guy kept ringing doorbell because he "didnt want to leave it outside" which was nice..

Very beautiful monitor..
the box came not wrapped in the thin layer of foam like some peoples, but box was in perfect shape..honestly expected some dings after 9000 mile journey.

fired it up
no dead pixels
no black light bleed

hell the stand is just as good as my asus one, though my arm arrives any day now..


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Glossy or matte?

How much glare is there on the glossy ones?

For $70 less I'm contemplating just picking up a glossy one...


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> Glossy or matte?
> 
> How much glare is there on the glossy ones?
> 
> For $70 less I'm contemplating just picking up a glossy one...


I have a glossy. It's not that bad, it's certainly not worse than other glossy panels. If there's not a windows directly behind you that you can't pull a curtain in front of, you should be fine.

I do have a curtain on my window that blocks light out completely, if you have that, you'll be fine. I think the higher image quality far outweighs the cons of a glossy panel, but it all comes down to personal preference


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Guys, just tried ocing on amd...screwed up some how via cru. How do I roll back? Can't see my desktop. As right now all I see is black lines lol

EDIT:
Unplugged from one port to the other did the trick


----------



## Syraz

I got the X-Star Multi Matte.. beautiful


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syraz*
> 
> I got the X-Star Multi Matte.. beautiful


Can you check for PWM/Flicker (they are advertised as Flicker Free, but the multi Qnix's which came out a few months before the multi X-Stars were proven to use flicker/PWM) using this test (read the instructions carefully)?


----------



## PcZac

Just got and set up my new QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll today, looks amazing, even compared to my other IPS 1080p Dell Ultrasharp. Trying to overclock with the Nvidia control panel was acting a bit weird, I'll have to try again later.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> Just got and set up my new QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll today, looks amazing, even compared to my other IPS 1080p Dell Ultrasharp. Trying to overclock with the Nvidia control panel was acting a bit weird, I'll have to try again later.


Can you check for PWM/Flicker using this test (read the instructions carefully)?


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> I have a glossy. It's not that bad, it's certainly not worse than other glossy panels. If there's not a windows directly behind you that you can't pull a curtain in front of, you should be fine.
> 
> I do have a curtain on my window that blocks light out completely, if you have that, you'll be fine. I think the higher image quality far outweighs the cons of a glossy panel, but it all comes down to personal preference


My rig is set up in my basement, so no sunlight. Just light from overhead floods.

I've never actually owned a glossy monitor, and it would be between two matte monitors, but I'm really contemplating getting one. No Eyefinity or triple monitor gaming. I'm done with that crap, the other two would just be for extra monitor real estate.


----------



## Syraz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Can you check for PWM/Flicker (they are advertised as Flicker Free, but the multi Qnix's which came out a few months before the multi X-Stars were proven to use flicker/PWM) using this test (read the instructions carefully)?


I can check tomorrow, I had to plug old monitor back in, that one doesnt fit on desk, and still havent finished setting up new desk..
did try it earlier was just confused seeing a ling go accorss screen and it saying valid


----------



## emsj86

So what's the difference performance wise between overlord tempeat and these monitors. I know visually the differences but our the same lag was. Overlord website showed lag almost the same or close to Asus vg248qe


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

How are your monitors' backlight bleed?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a perfect pixel glossy Qnix for $320 but the only thing stopping me is the possibility of backlight bleed.

Would you guys mind posting some pics of the bleeding effect on your panels?


----------



## PcZac

My light bleed isn't noticeable in a lit enviroment, I'll have to look in the dark. You can easily fix the light bleed yourself if it is an issue.


----------



## PcZac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Can you check for PWM/Flicker using this test (read the instructions carefully)?




This is what the PWM test looks like to my eyes, but a little bit fuzzier/blurrier.

There is some noticeable black light bleed in dark environments, but not enough to annoy me.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiknnwatrmln*
> 
> My rig is set up in my basement, so no sunlight. Just light from overhead floods.
> 
> I've never actually owned a glossy monitor, and it would be between two matte monitors, but I'm really contemplating getting one. No Eyefinity or triple monitor gaming. I'm done with that crap, the other two would just be for extra monitor real estate.


If you're not too OCD, don't worry about it. I also use a secondary monitor which is matte beside my glossy QNIX.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Guys, just tried ocing on amd...screwed up some how via cru. How do I roll back? Can't see my desktop. As right now all I see is black lines lol
> 
> EDIT:
> Unplugged from one port to the other did the trick


Anyone know how I can get it to work on AMD?
Seems to be having the same problem no matter what I do.


----------



## Syraz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Can you check for PWM/Flicker (they are advertised as Flicker Free, but the multi Qnix's which came out a few months before the multi X-Stars were proven to use flicker/PWM) using this test (read the instructions carefully)?


From what I gather. Its just a single blurry line which equals PWM free

I think


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syraz*
> 
> From what I gather. Its just a single blurry line which equals PWM free
> 
> I think


Single+blurry=PWM Free. Multiple vertical lines=PWM. Which X-Star did you buy, and from who?


----------



## Syraz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Single+blurry=PWM Free. Multiple vertical lines=PWM. Which X-Star did you buy, and from who?


Good Good..
Its an X-Star DP2710multi I got from Dream Seller...


----------



## bluedevil

Can anyone here recommend a good game capture card to use with the QX2710LED? Please keep in mind it has to be USB based as I am SFF.







Thanks!


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Ok now I hope I have the right order for a good OCer. QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" SAMSUNG PLS, has the DVI only input, states panel type as Samsung PLS, and its matte. And dream-seller cancelled my bad order of the LG AH-VA panel, so thats settled. Now its just to wait for it to arrive, study up and set it up.

Then I'll get a 2nd r9 290, 8GB ram, a bigger SSD, then I'll be set until if/when my mobo fails.

In the mean time no luck selling my 7950 locally so far, even at a great price. But I rather have it collect dust then lose money on ebay.


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I just got my QNIX 2710 in and right off the bat I am a little disappointed. I had read these have excellent out of the box color, which I was kind of counting on, as I am never happy with the results whenever I try to calibrate the picture myself. Anyway everything is a very warm yellow/brown tint. Whites especially are not white, but are instead a sort of beige color. My very cheap $179 AOC 27" looks better IMO. The extra resolution is nice but I don't think I can make this my primary display unless I can get the off white color sorted out.

Any tips on where to start?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I just got my QNIX 2710 in and right off the bat I am a little disappointed. I had read these have excellent out of the box color, which I was kind of counting on, as I am never happy with the results whenever I try to calibrate the picture myself. Anyway everything is a very warm yellow/brown tint. Whites especially are not white, but are instead a sort of beige color. My very cheap $179 AOC 27" looks better IMO. The extra resolution is nice but I don't think I can make this my primary display unless I can get the off white color sorted out.
> 
> Any tips on where to start?


Well after a few minutes of messing around with the windows and AMD color settings I got it looking a lot better. I think a couple of things were going on. First I am just use to my old monitor and the way it looks. I also think my old monitor was a little blue while this one is a little red. I lowered the green and blue hue just a little on this monitor and raised the contrast and now whites are actually brighter and whiter than my old monitor.


----------



## PcZac

It's extremely hard to judge warm vs cool just from your eye, you'd need a 4000 K light and and a color checker card. Or get a Spyder or some sort of monitor calibrator.


----------



## PcZac

If I try to overclock to 120 I'm getting green artifacts, is there any change I can get it to work if I play with the settings more? Or should I just stick with 96?


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I just had something pretty strange definitely not good occur. After using the monitor for a few hours on the windows desktop I decided it was time to test out some games on it. I loaded up Serious Sam 3, upped the resolution to 2560 x 1440 and started playing. The monitor is at stock configuration (60 hz). Well after a couple of minutes of play the monitor goes black and then starts blinking solid red, solid green, then solid blue, stopping on each color for about a second before switching to the next color. I turned it off and back on, but it kept doing it. So I exited the game, and it continued doing it on the desktop. I then went to the Catalyst Control Center and disabled and re-enabled the desktop on that monitor, and got it working properly again. What could have caused this?


----------



## sinnedone

I think the monitor does that when its not getting a display signal or not the correct signal. It was posted before but I believe it to be something like that.

Make sure your cable is tight and you are not having any sort of hardware or software issues.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I just had something pretty strange definitely not good occur. After using the monitor for a few hours on the windows desktop I decided it was time to test out some games on it. I loaded up Serious Sam 3, upped the resolution to 2560 x 1440 and started playing. The monitor is at stock configuration (60 hz). Well after a couple of minutes of play the monitor goes black and then starts blinking solid red, solid green, then solid blue, stopping on each color for about a second before switching to the next color. I turned it off and back on, but it kept doing it. So I exited the game, and it continued doing it on the desktop. I then went to the Catalyst Control Center and disabled and re-enabled the desktop on that monitor, and got it working properly again. What could have caused this?


Sorry I have rapid post syndrome today. The video card overclock was the problem. I forget about it because I have used it for so long at 1920 x 1080 without problems, I guess it was just too much at this resolution. Kind of surprised me though as the game isn't very demanding so I didn't think the OC would be an issue. Kind of disappointed that I wont be able to OC as high on this monitor. Going to have to find my new max OC.


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Sorry I have rapid post syndrome today. The video card overclock was the problem. I forget about it because I have used it for so long at 1920 x 1080 without problems, I guess it was just too much at this resolution. Kind of surprised me though as the game isn't very demanding so I didn't think the OC would be an issue. Kind of disappointed that I wont be able to OC as high on this monitor. Going to have to find my new max OC.


What all games r u playing and what sort of FPS do u get ?

I know 1 thing for sure, I will really miss the 30" screen I had last year (it fried), but it had too much blurring/etc. 27" will not seem much bigger than this 24" I'm on. Oh well, maybe in 1-2 years big monitors will be better and affordable for me.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Sorry I have rapid post syndrome today. The video card overclock was the problem. I forget about it because I have used it for so long at 1920 x 1080 without problems, I guess it was just too much at this resolution. Kind of surprised me though as the game isn't very demanding so I didn't think the OC would be an issue. Kind of disappointed that I wont be able to OC as high on this monitor. Going to have to find my new max OC.


Its probably temp related. you're probably running hotter than before because of the increased load from the higher resolution.


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Hey is accessorieswhole flexible on declared value ???????????


----------



## cl101

So I was considering picking up a QNIX but I'm unsure if my computer can handle it for gaming. My card is a 270x with 2gb vram. I'm also going to be using it a lot for everyday stuff. If I wasn't going to get a QNIX, I was going to get a dell U2415


----------



## ssiperko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Microtom*
> 
> 
> 
> x-star, 1 dead pixel less than 1cm from the right border. Very little bleeding at the bottom right corner. running at 90Hz.


Yeah! MotoGP Qatar!

SS


----------



## PcZac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cl101*
> 
> So I was considering picking up a QNIX but I'm unsure if my computer can handle it for gaming. My card is a 270x with 2gb vram. I'm also going to be using it a lot for everyday stuff. If I wasn't going to get a QNIX, I was going to get a dell U2415


I have a GTX 760 which is pretty similar, it's a lot more pixels than 1080p, and you will get a noticeable drop in performance, you'll get about 2/3rds the framerate you had before. Older games look better than ever, not very intensive games like League and Dota2 look amazing, you might not be able to run newer games at high or very high anymore, but if you are smart about what settings you turn down, it's not a big deal.

It's really nice for every day stuff, having two apps side by side works very well on one 1440p monitor.


----------



## etrips

Hello all,

I am interested in picking up a Qnix monitor! Can someone help me find a reputable seller? I am looking for a matte version that will be using for gaming. Also can anyone recommend an adjustable stand? Thank you for your time.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

No one on AMD to help a brother out on OCing the QNIX?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No one on AMD to help a brother out on OCing the QNIX?


CRU + AMD Pixel Patcher

CRU
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

AMD Pixel Patcher
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> CRU + AMD Pixel Patcher
> 
> CRU
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU
> 
> AMD Pixel Patcher
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


done both mate - it just causes black lines...:/


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> done both mate - it just causes black lines...:/


Can you run at 60hz no issue?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Can you run at 60hz no issue?


yeah 60hz works on/off
As sometimes I reboot at 60hz it goes through a cycle of colours on my monitor (as if it was a dead pixel test) - green, blue, yellow, red, black, white etc

I'm a little lost atm - and reverted back to my GTX680 - but I want to use my Xfire290s with no problem - just need to know what's the cause.
I've patched, installed drivers (both for monitor and GPU), used CRU (as instructed on guide) - still no luck.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yeah 60hz works on/off
> As sometimes I reboot at 60hz it goes through a cycle of colours on my monitor (as if it was a dead pixel test) - green, blue, yellow, red, black, white etc
> 
> I'm a little lost atm - and reverted back to my GTX680 - but I want to use my Xfire290s with no problem - just need to know what's the cause.
> I've patched, installed drivers (both for monitor and GPU), used CRU (as instructed on guide) - still no luck.


Does one 290 work? Might be Xfire related.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Does one 290 work? Might be Xfire related.


well that's the thing - even without xfire it doesn't 0.0

It's really weird as it was working flawlessly (I just couldn't OC the monitor for some weird reason)


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Its probably temp related. you're probably running hotter than before because of the increased load from the higher resolution.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> What all games r u playing and what sort of FPS do u get ?
> 
> I know 1 thing for sure, I will really miss the 30" screen I had last year (it fried), but it had too much blurring/etc. 27" will not seem much bigger than this 24" I'm on. Oh well, maybe in 1-2 years big monitors will be better and affordable for me.


Only game I have tested it on so far is Serious Sam 3 BFE. I have an R9 290x and it gets constant 60 FPS with only about 40-50% GPU utilization. The card is underwater and the temp doesn't go over 50. I had a pretty serious OC on there though at 1200/1600. I reset that back down to 1000/1250 and the problem went away. I am going to run valley today and see what stable OC I can get at the new resolution.

I am kind of wishing I had a 32" screen right now. I feel like 27" is definitely right on the border of being too small for 1440p x 2560p. I think they are going to have to make 4k monitors huge if they want the text to be readable from 2 feet away. My current setup is 1 27" monitor at 2560 x 1440p and one 27" at 1920 x 1080 so that kind of prevents me from upping the DPI. I was thinking this would be a good setup, cause I could still play more demanding game at 1920 x 1080 native resolution on the other monitor, but I didn't really anticipate the problems of using two monitors with different resolutions. For example panning an excel sheet across both monitors make the sheet only take up at 2/3 of the screen on the higher res monitor. Now I am thinking I want to go ahead and get a second 2560 x 1440p so I can up the DPI and have a more consistent experience across both monitors.

I tested playing at 1920 x 1080 on the 2560 x 1440 screen, and I didn't notice any blur or anything from running at the non-native res, so I don't really anticipate that being a problem on more demanding games.


----------



## PcZac

So I can get my QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll to 110hz, any higher give me green video artifacts, anything I can do to try to get 120hz out of it? Tried following the guide from the first post, but still got the same issues.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> So I can get my QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll to 110hz, any higher give me green video artifacts, anything I can do to try to get 120hz out of it? Tried following the guide from the first post, but still got the same issues.


Tighten timings and/or try and get another DVI cable:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


----------



## PcZac

Should a dual link for monoprice be a good enough?


----------



## LandonAaron

Well this sucks. I can not get this monitor to cooperate. It runs the desktop fine but whenever I game after a couple of minutes, 10 max, it always goes into white, red, blue, green blinking mode. I have tried every combination of "Reduce DVI Frequency" and "Alternate DVI operation mode" but nothing seems to help. Also tried the different "maintain aspect ratio", "Use Centered Timings", and "Maintain Aspect Ratio" options. I am using the DVI cable that came with the monitor and it is connected to an AMD R9 290x.

This is happening at 60hz. So my hopes of 120hz seem very unlikely at this point and I am more likely staring at a %15 restocking fee and $30 in shipping fees.

Edit: Just switched out the cable with my Tripp-Lite Dual Link DVI cable which looks more like a garden hose than a wire and after about 10 minutes of play the problem came back. Guess I'm going to call MSW Global and see what they have to say.


----------



## LandonAaron

So is there no driver for AMD cards? We should just use the pixel clock patcher? I am not looking to overclock the monitor I just want to get it working at the default speed, but am hoping that a driver might help.


----------



## PcZac

There's a generic windows driver, try installing it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/0_100

It's under Qnix and X-Star Monitor drivers qnix.zip


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> There's a generic windows driver, try installing it.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/0_100
> 
> It's under Qnix and X-Star Monitor drivers qnix.zip


Thank you, looks like there is a lot of useful stuff on that page.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So is there no driver for AMD cards? We should just use the pixel clock patcher? I am not looking to overclock the monitor I just want to get it working at the default speed, but am hoping that a driver might help.


No driver for AMD.

1. Run newest ToastyX AMD Pixel Patcher. Reboot.
2. Run CRU, set timings. Reboot.

Ive tried this method with an Overlord Tempest and QNIX, with a Radeon 7970 and now R9 290X.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> No driver for AMD.
> 
> 1. Run newest ToastyX AMD Pixel Patcher. Reboot.
> 2. Run CRU, set timings. Reboot.
> 
> Ive tried this method with an Overlord Tempest and QNIX, with a Radeon 7970 and now R9 290X.


I tried following the guide on the first page, but I'm not sure what I am suppose to change besides the frequency. What "timings" (not sure what this refers to) are we specifically suppose to change? So far I have just tried creating a profile for 96hz, and left the 60hz one at its default settings.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I tried following the guide on the first page, but I'm not sure what I am suppose to change besides the frequency. What "timings" (not sure what this refers to) are we specifically suppose to change? So far I have just tried creating a profile for 96hz, and left the 60hz one at its default settings.


Heres a more detailed response i did a while back

http://www.overclock.net/t/1505700/qnix-driver-120hz-not-working#post_22668021

That guide is using my timings on the front page afaik from back in 2013

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/7960#post_20959465


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I installed the Pixel Patch, and created a 60hz and 96hz profile. When I load up a game with the refresh rate set to 96 it immediately start going crazy with weird colorful static lines and kind of a double vision look and if I don't exit it eventually goes to the blinking colorful screen. With the refresh rate set to 60hz I can play for about 10 minutes and then it will just suddenly go into blinking colorful screen mode. So disappointed.


----------



## cl101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> I have a GTX 760 which is pretty similar, it's a lot more pixels than 1080p, and you will get a noticeable drop in performance, you'll get about 2/3rds the framerate you had before. Older games look better than ever, not very intensive games like League and Dota2 look amazing, you might not be able to run newer games at high or very high anymore, but if you are smart about what settings you turn down, it's not a big deal.
> 
> It's really nice for every day stuff, having two apps side by side works very well on one 1440p monitor.


My only concern is that the rest of my machine is pushing 5 years old and I'm not really sure when I'll have the money to upgrade, which is why I've been debating going to 1200p with the dell ultrasharp and just getting the 27 inch when I've got the horsepower to handle it.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

So I have an Evolution 2 from a long time ago and I read about how the newer ones are using a panel that looks a bit worse.
I want to go surround 1440p, is getting another 2 Qnix Evolution II monitors still my best option? Is it a possibility to resolve the problem by calibrating all of the monitors?


----------



## electro2u

Is price a big issue? Are you getting a stable 120hz overclock on the qnix?

I would still say it's probably the best option if budget is involved in the considerations. I would probably ask the sellers there if they would match and if they said yes get 2 from the same seller at the same time on Amazon- from Ecomade Arena. If you have a problem simply send them back with the explanation that they don't match the sellers description or whatever else could be wrong with them. Amazon will still arrange free shipping to return problem orders from marketplace sellers. I've sent tons of dodgy stuff back even though they aren't prime items.

Rent a colorimeter like the i1display pro (I recommend that one) and if the 2 new ones are at least decent, as in not defective or has a bunch of panel defects, as long as you get PLS with a matte coating (if that is what you have which I'm 99% sure) you can put one on each side. Then calibrate them all the same and they will look the same in brightness and color. A PLS panel is a PLS panel.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazzyRussian*
> 
> So I have an Evolution 2 from a long time ago and I read about how the newer ones are using a panel that looks a bit worse.
> I want to go surround 1440p, is getting another 2 Qnix Evolution II monitors still my best option? Is it a possibility to resolve the problem by calibrating all of the monitors?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Is price a big issue? Are you getting a stable 120hz overclock on the qnix?
> 
> I would still say it's probably the best option if budget is involved in the considerations. I would probably ask the sellers there if they would match and if they said yes get 2 from the same seller at the same time on Amazon- from Ecomade Arena. If you have a problem simply send them back with the explanation that they don't match the sellers description or whatever else could be wrong with them. Amazon will still arrange free shipping to return problem orders from marketplace sellers. I've sent tons of dodgy stuff back even though they aren't prime items.
> 
> Rent a colorimeter like the i1display pro (I recommend that one) and if the 2 new ones are at least decent, as in not defective or has a bunch of panel defects, as long as you get PLS with a matte coating (if that is what you have which I'm 99% sure) you can put one on each side. Then calibrate them all the same and they will look the same in brightness and color. A PLS panel is a PLS panel.


Make sure you look at them side by side without calibration though. Once you go into surround, you loose individual monitor calibration (other than brightness of course). I bought my three about a month apart, first one, then the other two. the two I bought at the same time look slightly different (slightly grayer) than the first one. Only noticable to me when I look for it.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Make sure you look at them side by side without calibration though. Once you go into surround, you loose individual monitor calibration (other than brightness of course). I bought my three about a month apart, first one, then the other two. the two I bought at the same time look slightly different (slightly grayer) than the first one. Only noticable to me when I look for it.


Should be able to control all three monitors color profiles individually using yasamoka's color sustainer or lots of other software.


----------



## Roland2

According to yasamoka, not once you're in surround.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21120#post_22989083

Edit: spelling, sorry yasamoka
Edit 2: Found the post


----------



## LandonAaron

Well MSW Global asked me to send them a video of the problem. So I loaded up Serisous Sam BFE and started recording with my phone, but after 10 minutes the screeen was still working. On hunch I tried turning on MSI afterburner, which I had been using before when the screen went into color blinking mode and sure enough it happened again. Has anyone else had any issues with using MSI Afterburner in game monitoring on their QNIX monitor?


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PcZac*
> 
> Should a dual link for monoprice be a good enough?


I have not heard of anyone that was able to overclock higher because they used a different cable.
And if you can find someone that says he can, I highly doubt that person is speaking the full truth.
The green artifacts come from the board inside the monitor running at a clockspeed too high to handle.
The only way of getting rid of the artifacting is tightening the timings so it reduces the clockspeed.

All a cable does is send the zeroes and ones to your GPU, it will still send those artifacts.


----------



## electro2u

I had a qnix that would only do like 86hz or something with the cable it came with, got another cable from local store and it could do 113hz before artifacts. Green lines weren't the issue when using the included cable iirc, monitor just didn't work.


----------



## prognosis82

Looking to get a overclockable monitor.

I'm now leaning towards this qnix as it's dvi-d. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=141482167610&pAction=VISPEC

Any idea why there is a difference in price to this qnix sold by the same person which seems to be identical?
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/141493637745?nav=SEARCH

I assume both of these are overclockable? Am I choosing the right qnix or am I going completely wrong here?

Last question - am I going to regret getting a glossy monitor if there won't be much sunlight but I'll have my main light on most of the time?.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

Damn, the newer Qnix models have the thinner display panel inside. I can custom machine a new bracket to VESA mount the debezeled panel but they'll look really different compared to my original Qnix. Sigh...time to buy a 4th Qnix. At least I won't have to calibrate them since they'll all look the same.


----------



## PcZac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I had a qnix that would only do like 86hz or something with the cable it came with, got another cable from local store and it could do 113hz before artifacts. Green lines weren't the issue when using the included cable iirc, monitor just didn't work.


Yeah it seems like cables may be able to help, but it mostly only works if you are getting a low refresh rate, just going off these reviews. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L11FIQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## ArchersTest

Quote:


> I'm now leaning towards this qnix as it's dvi-d. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=141482167610&pAction=VISPEC
> 
> Any idea why there is a difference in price to this qnix sold by the same person which seems to be identical?
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/141493637745?nav=SEARCH


Well as far as the price difference... One is in USD and the other is UK pounds.


----------



## prognosis82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchersTest*
> 
> Well as far as the price difference... One is in USD and the other is UK pounds.


For me, they are both in UK pounds (one is £3 more than the other) So I'm assuming they are the exact same monitor and are the right one to go for it terms of overclocking/performance?

Also, I'm from the UK and it says this in the description:

"Q: Voltage / Plug type
All electronics, 220V and 60hz, the plug type is "C" (EU type)
For free voltage items, provided plug (only for USA, Canada and AU buyers)
If you would order items that is not fit the voltage in your country, we can hold the item shipping.
(We do not ship out the item excluding buyer's confirmation)"

I assume this means it will come with a euro plug, so can I just use a euro --> UK plug adapter and it'll work fine?


----------



## electro2u

Sometimes greensum sets different prices according to the countries excluded from the shipping. One of those can go to different places that the other one can't.


----------



## LandonAaron

Okay. So I have been trying to get this monitor to work in games since I got it and I think I am finally on to something. The problem I was having was that whenever I would go into a 3d game with my GPU overclocked the monitor would go into test mode. Well after much testing I have narrowed down the problem to be specifically with the voltage setting on my GPU. It is an R9 290x and anything over +100mv causes the monitor to either get double vision or go into test mode. The overclock itself isn't much of an issue as before I could overclock from 1000 core clock to 1200 core clock, and from 1250 Mem Clock to 1600 mem clock, @ +200mV and now either due to the monitor or simply because I can only use +100mv with this monitor I can only overclock to 1150 core clock and 1550 mem clock. And this is with the monitor running at 96hz,







, finally got this thing working without having to completely throw away my overclock. So strange though as usually adding voltage increases a cards stability, not vice versa. But really it isn't the card that is unstable, its the monitor. The other monitor this card is rendering the desktop on is fine, it is just the Qnix that goes crazy when the card is set to +200mV.

I'm still not super happy about this strange behavior, and the fact that I have to down clock my GPU for it to work, but if it is only shaving off 50 mhz in order to avoid the hassle, restocking, and shipping fees of an RMA I can live with it.


----------



## electro2u

Over clocking on AMD is generally annoying but any gpu will run hotter and may need more voltage or apparently less to keep things stable.


----------



## DrawnToLife

Is there a difference between the following two monitor listings?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d058e2e3

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-27-LED-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/121496137950?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c49bbf0de

Like, is there a difference between Evolution II 2 and Evolution II, or is the 2 just for clarity? I was going to buy the first one, the Evolution II 2, but literally right before I pressed by, the listing changed and a lot of shipping was added. Then I found the second one, for a higher listing price, but with no shipping.

I just don't want to buy the wrong monitor


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrawnToLife*
> 
> Is there a difference between the following two monitor listings?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d058e2e3
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-27-LED-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/121496137950?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c49bbf0de
> 
> Like, is there a difference between Evolution II 2 and Evolution II, or is the 2 just for clarity? I was going to buy the first one, the Evolution II 2, but literally right before I pressed by, the listing changed and a lot of shipping was added. Then I found the second one, for a higher listing price, but with no shipping.
> 
> I just don't want to buy the wrong monitor


There are only the multi-input version and the single dual link DVI version, and then matte or glossy in each. I would do more research on the Glossy versions before you buy if you are set on glossy though. There have been reports that the glossy versions currently being sold aren't true glossy but Matte finish, with piece of tempered glass placed over the screen.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> There are only the multi-input version and the single dual link DVI version, and then matte or glossy in each. I would do more research on the Glossy versions before you buy if you are set on glossy though. There have been reports that the glossy versions currently being sold aren't true glossy but Matte finish, with piece of tempered glass placed over the screen.


Good summation







... But could you link or clarify your information on the newer PLS "Glossy" panels shipping with tempered glass instead of the true glossy screen?









I do think it may? be a possibility with lesser popular sellers and old stock/listings, But I have not seen this problem with reputable sellers in over a year. I had it out way back when, personally contacting the more popular sellers like green-sum / dream seller / accessorieswhole etc etc ... and even got green-sum to update/clarify some of their listings. I think it's a safe bet "DrawnToLife" will get what he orders from green-sum. They are quite aware of what a true glossy panel is vs tempered glass, and remember, originally they were the only seller of the Cat2B Glossy that also could be ordered with tempered glass much like Overlord Monitors back in the day.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Good summation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... But could you link or clarify your information on the newer PLS "Glossy" panels shipping with tempered glass instead of the true glossy screen?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do think it may? be a possibility with lesser popular sellers and old stock/listings, But I have not seen this problem with reputable sellers in over a year. I had it out way back when, personally contacting the more popular sellers like green-sum / dream seller / accessorieswhole etc etc ... and even got green-sum to update/clarify some of their listings. I think it's a safe bet "DrawnToLife" will get what he orders from green-sum. They are quite aware of what a true glossy panel is vs tempered glass, and remember, originally they were the only seller of the Cat2B Glossy that also could be ordered with tempered glass much like Overlord Monitors back in the day.


The information I got was from searching this thread. I saw one Glossy listing on amazon and then in the description I saw something about tempered glass so I came here and searched the thread for tempered glass vs. glossy and I saw several posts claiming Glossy was no longer in production. I don't remember how old the posts were, but I think they were all within the last year. I have no idea if this is true or not, its just something I read, and why I suggested he do more research on it.

Edit: Look at posts from October 2014, seems there was a discussion on True Glossy vs. either matte or glossy covered with a sheet of tempered glass.


----------



## DrawnToLife

Interesting. There are so many listings for this monitor from green-sum.

I've already bought one from them in the past, but now I've noticed that there are so many listings that differ in price / shipping options by small amounts.

Alright, thanks for the help! If anyone else knows about these other listings, please do let me know! I'm pretty impressed by their response turn around time though. They've been great with me so far.


----------



## Ragefactor

Could someone recommend a replacement vesa mount stand and maybe provide a picture? I'm looking to debezel my two x-star's and would like to go ahead a grab two stands with pivot/height adjustment. Thanks.


----------



## emsj86

The dell and monoprice sell one. Dell is harder to find. See first page of this thread it shows I pictures and vesa mounts. If you can get lucky get a Asus (vg248qe) stand. Hard to fine but it works well


----------



## Harry604

i have a 290 xfx DD an a qnix 2710 i got in dec 2013

when i run cru 1.2 and overclock the monitor everytime window load i get colored lines everywhere with the 290 gpu

but when i had a gtx 680 or 780ti it didnt do this it would boot to windows login screen perfect


----------



## Scotty99

Hey guys long time since i posted in this thread, have you guys seen this?:

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-Off-grade-2560x1440-Monitor/dp/B00QUM9L84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1424078633&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix

Does off grade mean it can come with a bullet hole in it? I see this on the page: "Off-grade panels have some defects on the panel.
-Warranty exception : All defects about the Panel quality
Ex) Tinted Spot on the black background, Defective Pixels, Backlight bleeding"

I almost dont even care, for 220 bucks this is mighty tempting.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hi there guys - if anyone wants to help me - I'm having problems with the 290X and QNIX:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1541697/amd-driver-gpu-problems-with-qnix-qx2710-1440p-monitor-xfx-290-290x

I really don't want to re-install windows (Although could pop in win10 and see if the issue still persists) - please let me know if you have ANY idea on how to solve it!


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Hey guys long time since i posted in this thread, have you guys seen this?:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-Off-grade-2560x1440-Monitor/dp/B00QUM9L84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1424078633&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix
> 
> Does off grade mean it can come with a bullet hole in it? I see this on the page: "Off-grade panels have some defects on the panel.
> -Warranty exception : All defects about the Panel quality
> Ex) Tinted Spot on the black background, Defective Pixels, Backlight bleeding"
> 
> I almost dont even care, for 220 bucks this is mighty tempting.


You can easily find Qnix monitors for $299. I think that extra $80 dollars is well worth it to get a monitor without bullet holes.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> i have a 290 xfx DD an a qnix 2710 i got in dec 2013
> 
> when i run cru 1.2 and overclock the monitor everytime window load i get colored lines everywhere with the 290 gpu
> 
> but when i had a gtx 680 or 780ti it didnt do this it would boot to windows login screen perfect
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hi there guys - if anyone wants to help me - I'm having problems with the 290X and QNIX:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1541697/amd-driver-gpu-problems-with-qnix-qx2710-1440p-monitor-xfx-290-290x
> 
> I really don't want to re-install windows (Although could pop in win10 and see if the issue still persists) - please let me know if you have ANY idea on how to solve it!
Click to expand...

@Harry ... looks like you are having a problem very similar to Dubbed's, previous Nvidia cards worked fine, but AMD 290 series are troublesome to say the least







check it out *HERE* ...

@Dubbed ... I see Toasty chimed in, and he eliminated another possible conflict I was contemplating and that is the now older version of CRU developed a new conflict with the newest Catalyst drivers? ... guess not








So now Harry (above) has very similar problems to you (you should notify Toasty) and that leads me back to residual Nvidia drivers somewhere/somehow conflicting with your new AMD 290* / QNIX setups ...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Hey guys long time since i posted in this thread, have you guys seen this?:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-Evolution-Off-grade-2560x1440-Monitor/dp/B00QUM9L84/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1424078633&sr=8-2&keywords=qnix
> 
> Does off grade mean it can come with a bullet hole in it? I see this on the page: "Off-grade panels have some defects on the panel.
> -Warranty exception : All defects about the Panel quality
> Ex) Tinted Spot on the black background, Defective Pixels, Backlight bleeding"
> 
> I almost dont even care, for 220 bucks this is mighty tempting.


Yea tempting isn't it? Especially as a backup or 2nd monitor ....
We've had very few guys take a chance on these, and only one reported back at all, and with suspiciously positive results ... no stains or even dead pixels ... hmmm









I still think it is a safer bet to buy used or open box ... If you have the patience to shop/follow ebay listings, for the appx same price similar deals like below present them selves every so often ...









http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-LED-Evolution-II-27-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Matte-Panel-PC-Monitor-Used-/351305391177?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cb6edc49

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-LED-Evolution-II-27-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Matte-Panel-PC-Monitor-Used-/351305389559?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cb6ed5f7


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> @Harry ... looks like you are having a problem very similar to Dubbed's, previous Nvidia cards worked fine, but AMD 290 series are troublesome to say the least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check it out *HERE* ...
> 
> @Dubbed ... I see Toasty chimed in, and he eliminated another possible conflict I was contemplating and that is the now older version of CRU developed a new conflict with the newest Catalyst drivers? ... guess not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now Harry (above) has very similar problems to you (you should notify Toasty) and that leads me back to residual Nvidia drivers somewhere/somehow conflicting with your new AMD 290* / QNIX setups ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea tempting isn't it? Especially as a backup or 2nd monitor ....
> We've had very few guys take a chance on these, and only one reported back at all, and with suspiciously positive results ... no stains or even dead pixels ... hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still think it is a safer bet to buy used or open box ... If you have the patience to shop/follow ebay listings, for the appx same price similar deals like below present them selves every so often ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-LED-Evolution-II-27-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Matte-Panel-PC-Monitor-Used-/351305391177?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cb6edc49
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-LED-Evolution-II-27-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Matte-Panel-PC-Monitor-Used-/351305389559?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cb6ed5f7


Could bro - but I completely eradicated all NV drivers as you stated lol - still didn't work.


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I have the worst freaking luck. Ordered one of these Qnix monitors, and realize there isn't enough room on my desk for 2 27" monitors so I order a dual monitor stand from office depot. Office Depot cancels my order saying there was a pricing mistake on the order. So I order a different stand from Amazon, and what do you know I bump into my desk today the monitor take a tumble and is completely smashed. kldjaf;lkadsjfa;kds!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway, so does anyone know if the glossy ones are true glossy or not or if it is just matte covered with tempered glass. The last time I saw someone report on this was back in october. The glossy ones are a bit cheaper so I am thinking of getting that as my replacement, but want to be sure of what I will be getting.


----------



## Aplaster

Hello, guys I am looking for the best quality Korean Monitor I am looking for 1440P Matte anti glare and pixel perfect. I would like one with HDMI/DVI not sure since people are saying the ones with multi imputs can't be overclocked can anyone link to ebay listings?


----------



## bluedevil

Hey guys, dumb question. Lol

Looking at possibly getting a 980 over my 970 and was wondering with a 980 not having a DVD-D connection, couldn't I use a Display port to DVD-D cable / HDMI to DVI-D cable? I ask this because all I have had to do in the past was get a GPU with a DVI-D connection and go but now it looks like that type of connection is being phased out.









Here is the GPU in question.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487087


----------



## kaspar737

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Hey guys, dumb question. Lol
> 
> Looking at possibly getting a 980 over my 970 and was wondering with a 980 not having a DVD-D connection, couldn't I use a Display port to DVD-D cable / HDMI to DVI-D cable? I ask this because all I have had to do in the past was get a GPU with a DVI-D connection and go but now it looks like that type of connection is being phased out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the GPU in question.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487087


The GPU has DVI-I, which means it can support DVI-D (digital) and DVI-A (analog). It can also support DVI to VGA converter. You are fine if you stick to 1 monitor.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaspar737*
> 
> The GPU has DVI-I, which means it can support DVI-D (digital) and DVI-A (analog). It can also support DVI to VGA converter. You are fine if you stick to 1 monitor.


Lol, I knew it was a dumb question. Lol. Just tried my "other" DVI-I connection, works just fine.







Rep+


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Hey guys, dumb question. Lol
> 
> Looking at possibly getting a 980 over my 970 and was wondering with a 980 not having a DVD-D connection, couldn't I use a Display port to DVD-D cable / HDMI to DVI-D cable? I ask this because all I have had to do in the past was get a GPU with a DVI-D connection and go but now it looks like that type of connection is being phased out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the GPU in question.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487087


I thought the same thing too with the 960 and AMD gpus - it's fine the DVI-I output works flawlessly.
So you can just plug a normal DVI cable in there and it will work









EDIT:
Don't get that 980 reference cooler card.
Get one with dual fans.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I thought the same thing too with the 960 and AMD gpus - it's fine the DVI-I output works flawlessly.
> So you can just plug a normal DVI cable in there and it will work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Don't get that 980 reference cooler card.
> Get one with dual fans.


Can I get your input on my 2 X99 builds? Thus the reason for the blower type cooler.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1540946/5-different-builds-gaming-video-editing/20#post_23555262


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Hey guys, dumb question. Lol
> 
> Looking at possibly getting a 980 over my 970 and was wondering with a 980 not having a DVD-D connection, couldn't I use a Display port to DVD-D cable / HDMI to DVI-D cable? I ask this because all I have had to do in the past was get a GPU with a DVI-D connection and go but now it looks like that type of connection is being phased out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the GPU in question.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487087


This is not making sense to me. DVI-I has 4 extra pins to support a standard analog signal so you can use something like a DVI to VGA adaptor. If you're connecting this GPU to one of these korean monitors, a simple Dual Link DVI - I or D cable will work. The monitors come with this cable.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I have the worst freaking luck. Ordered one of these Qnix monitors, and realize there isn't enough room on my desk for 2 27" monitors so I order a dual monitor stand from office depot. Office Depot cancels my order saying there was a pricing mistake on the order. So I order a different stand from Amazon, and what do you know I bump into my desk today the monitor take a tumble and is completely smashed. kldjaf;lkadsjfa;kds!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Anyway, so does anyone know if the glossy ones are true glossy or not or if it is just matte covered with tempered glass. The last time I saw someone report on this was back in october. The glossy ones are a bit cheaper so I am thinking of getting that as my replacement, but want to be sure of what I will be getting.


Sorry to hear about your mishap!!









Yes, The glossy's out there now are true glossy's. Just make sure the listing states glossy and not tempered or matte. How long ago did you get your Qnix? The newer glossy's, the color seems to be a bit washed up compared to the old ones. So it might look a tad weird running dual..just fyi.


----------



## bmancreations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmancreations*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have 1 QNIX mutli-input and 2 Xstars. When my computer sleeps, all my windows (even my taskbar) gets moved to the middle monitor.
> 
> Anyone know why this would happen?


Anyone?


----------



## swinte

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this great thread! After lurking and reviewing the awesome info here I took the plunge and picked up a Perfect Pixel QNIX QX2710 off eBay for $299 (from seller green-sum; fast shipping, very pleased so far). My display has no stuck or dead pixels, a manageable amount of backlight bleed (haven't gotten brave enough to pop the case open yet), and overclocks consistently to 96 Hz. It's a huge step up from my old 23" 1080p TN panel. Now to find the perfect desk mount to replace the wobbly built-in stand.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

I'm waiting to catch a deal and one of these Korean panels will be mine


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swinte*
> 
> Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this great thread! After lurking and reviewing the awesome info here I took the plunge and picked up a Perfect Pixel QNIX QX2710 off eBay for $299 (from seller green-sum; fast shipping, very pleased so far). My display has no stuck or dead pixels, a manageable amount of backlight bleed (haven't gotten brave enough to pop the case open yet), and overclocks consistently to 96 Hz. It's a huge step up from my old 23" 1080p TN panel. Now to find the perfect desk mount to replace the wobbly built-in stand.


Awesome!! Crazy how much those old TN's have been depriving us









p.s Welcome to OCN!


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Sorry to hear about your mishap!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, The glossy's out there now are true glossy's. Just make sure the listing states glossy and not tempered or matte. How long ago did you get your Qnix? The newer glossy's, the color seems to be a bit washed up compared to the old ones. So it might look a tad weird running dual..just fyi.


So would you recommend Matte over Glossy. I only ever had one Qnix, my other 27" monitor is an old cheapo AOC 1080p monitor. I work from home and even with 1440p, its not quite enough real estate for everything I do so I got to keep using the AOC too, until I can afford to upgrade both. Anyway, so yeah I don't need to match the monitor to anything as my last Qnix took a nose dive off the desk and straight killed itself. Wobbly stand indeed. (Already have dual monitor stand ordered, first thing I do will be setting that up). I just want the best picture I can get at the best price. No real preference for matte or glossy, just whatever looks best at the best price.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So would you recommend Matte over Glossy. I only ever had one Qnix, my other 27" monitor is an old cheapo AOC 1080p monitor. I work from home and even with 1440p, its not quite enough real estate for everything I do so I got to keep using the AOC too, until I can afford to upgrade both. Anyway, so yeah I don't need to match the monitor to anything as my last Qnix took a nose dive off the desk and straight killed itself. Wobbly stand indeed. (Already have dual monitor stand ordered, first thing I do will be setting that up). I just want the best picture I can get at the best price. No real preference for matte or glossy, just whatever looks best at the best price.


Glossy will be slightly clearer, but the matte Qnix is considered "semi-glossy" due to the very thin film layer.

If you have any sources of light (sunlight or lamps) that will be facing your screen, I highly suggest matte as you will be struggling with glare.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So would you recommend Matte over Glossy. I only ever had one Qnix, my other 27" monitor is an old cheapo AOC 1080p monitor. I work from home and even with 1440p, its not quite enough real estate for everything I do so I got to keep using the AOC too, until I can afford to upgrade both. Anyway, so yeah I don't need to match the monitor to anything as my last Qnix took a nose dive off the desk and straight killed itself. Wobbly stand indeed. (Already have dual monitor stand ordered, first thing I do will be setting that up). I just want the best picture I can get at the best price. No real preference for matte or glossy, just whatever looks best at the best price.


Oh I see. Well then, if you don't have a light issue. Definitely go with the Glossy.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> Glossy will be slightly clearer, but the matte Qnix is considered "semi-glossy" due to the very thin film layer.
> 
> If you have any sources of light (sunlight or lamps) that will be facing your screen, I highly suggest matte as you will be struggling with glare.


Well I have two lamps, and a single bulb light fixture in the room. (I use energy efficient CFL bulbs, which in my opinion are no where near the 100w brightness they claim on the box, and thus need several lamps to get the room well lit.) I also have a large window of my carport at a 90 degree angle to the monitor just 4 feet away, but since it is the carport no direct sunlight hits the window. My fiance's laptop has a glossy screen so I tried placing it where my monitor would go to see if I would notice any reflections, and while I can see myself and reflections of the room in the screen when its black, I don't see any glare. I guess the angles of all the light sources just don't line up to shine directly at me, so I think I would be okay. I have always owned matte monitors and had never thought anything of it. I actually just assumed they were all like that. But now the possibility of something clear and more vivid definitely has me intrigued.


----------



## swinte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Awesome!! Crazy how much those old TN's have been depriving us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s Welcome to OCN!


Thanks! Glad to be a part of the incredibly knowledgeable and helpful community here.


----------



## LandonAaron

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=11441&seq=1&format=2

What do yall think of this panel from mono-price. Its on sale no for $379. A 30" 2560 x 1600 IPS panel made by LG. The xtra screen size and resolution seem nice, and the price is sweet. I just doubt it will be as good for gaming as the QNIX.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=11441&seq=1&format=2
> 
> What do yall think of this panel from mono-price. Its on sale no for $379. A 30" 2560 x 1600 IPS panel made by LG. The xtra screen size and resolution seem nice, and the price is sweet. I just doubt it will be as good for gaming as the QNIX.


It's not bad but you're stuck at 60hz.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> It's not bad but you're stuck at 60hz.


Yeah they even have a 28" 4K monitor for just $430, how insane is that? If I thought there was any chance that I could actually game at that resolution I would be all over it, but I think I am going to have enough trouble keeping a consistently high frame rate at 1440p that I don't even want to think about 4k.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Yeah they even have a 28" 4K monitor for just $430, how insane is that? If I thought there was any chance that I could actually game at that resolution I would be all over it, but I think I am going to have enough trouble keeping a consistently high frame rate at 1440p that I don't even want to think about 4k.


I'm not too crazy about 4K. I'll take a 1440p G-Sync 144hz/120hz any day over 4K.


----------



## Nikto11

Does anyone have any experience or opinions about the regular Qnix qx2710 matte version vs. the "SE" version. The seller says the regular allows 0-3 dead/stuck pixels, while the SE can be up to 5 dead/stuck pixels. Is the regular one worth paying $15 more?

Regular: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

SE version: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikto11*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience or opinions about the regular Qnix qx2710 matte version vs. the "SE" version. The seller says the regular allows 0-3 dead/stuck pixels, while the SE can be up to 5 dead/stuck pixels. Is the regular one worth paying $15 more?
> 
> Regular: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> SE version: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


What I have read is that the SE versions are "Second Edition" versions and are slightly lower quality versions. Which would make sense with their pixel policy on that version. $15 is less than 5% of the purchase price so for me I would just spend the $15 extra to get the regular version.


----------



## prognosis82

Okay so I just asked 'green-sum' about this specific monitor he is selling:
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=141482167610&pAction=VISPEC

His reply was this:
"Thank you for your interest. We are glad to be of your service.

The only monitor that we have at this time that may be overclockable is the Yamakasi "2B."
However, please keep in mind that the manufacture does not guarantee all graphic cards to be compatible for overclock.
We advise you to read our descriptions carefully before purchase because the manufacture will not accept returns for compatibility issues."

Now I'm really confused as to what monitor to get for overlocking. Can someone please link me one from the UK, thanks.


----------



## darthdirty

im sure this has been asked before... i want to get a 2nd X-Star(DVI-I) and i only have one graphics card(EVGA 980 SC ACX 2.0) which only had one DVI-D port. Is there a splitter or something i can buy or do i have to buy a 2nd video card to run my 2nd monitor?

Thank you everyone for your time.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> im sure this has been asked before... i want to get a 2nd X-Star(DVI-I) and i only have one graphics card(EVGA 980 SC ACX 2.0) which only had one DVI-D port. Is there a splitter or something i can buy or do i have to buy a 2nd video card to run my 2nd monitor?
> 
> Thank you everyone for your time.


Just search this forum for displayport, you should be able to find what you need.


----------



## LandonAaron

Seriously considering getting a HP ZR2740w, http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/hp_zr2740w_v2.htm, refurb at Amazon for only $299 instead of Qnix. While I really liked the Qnix the one thing that bothered me was the lack of deep blacks, and the mediocre contrast ratio. This has a much better contrast ratio and one of the lowest input lags of any IPS type monitor. Seems kind of similar to the Qnix in that it has no OSD or scaler. Wondering if it may be possible to overclock it at all.


----------



## jcleary47

Hello all,

I've had my QNIX-2710 since 2013 and I noticed something happening at the top of my panel. I have the tempered glass, and it appears there is something, possibly adhesive starting to work it's way down onto the glass panel. It is definitely behind the glass, as I cannot scrape it off.

I have a squaretrade warranty with it but I don't know if it's worth the hassle (if it's a hassle at all) or what.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I've had my QNIX-2710 since 2013 and I noticed something happening at the top of my panel. I have the tempered glass, and it appears there is something, possibly adhesive starting to work it's way down onto the glass panel. It is definitely behind the glass, as I cannot scrape it off.
> 
> I have a squaretrade warranty with it but I don't know if it's worth the hassle (if it's a hassle at all) or what.


That's the tape that is holding the tempered glass. Do what I did, take it apart and remove the glass.


----------



## LandonAaron

Korean Holiday February 17 to 22nd: AccessoriesWhole and DreamSeller won't be shipping orders until the 23rd. Looks like MNW Global and Green Sum are still shipping orders though. Ugh, this is America damnit, we don't believe in holidays, we work 50 hours a week, go to the movies on Christmas, and do our shopping on Thanksgiving. I don't understand your "Holiday"!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Seriously considering getting a HP ZR2740w, http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/hp_zr2740w_v2.htm, refurb at Amazon for only $299 instead of Qnix. While I really liked the Qnix the one thing that bothered me was the lack of deep blacks, and the mediocre contrast ratio. This has a much better contrast ratio and one of the lowest input lags of any IPS type monitor. Seems kind of similar to the Qnix in that it has no OSD or scaler. Wondering if it may be possible to overclock it at all.


You could always get an Overlord. Around $500ish with shipping but they're sold out until mid March.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> You could always get an Overlord. Around $500ish with shipping but they're sold out until mid March.


Yeah Ive read about the overlord, but I searched Ebay, Amazon, and google shopping and couldn't turn up an results. Where can you order one?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> Okay so I just asked 'green-sum' about this specific monitor he is selling:
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=141482167610&pAction=VISPEC
> 
> His reply was this:
> "Thank you for your interest. We are glad to be of your service.
> 
> The only monitor that we have at this time that may be overclockable is the Yamakasi "2B."
> However, please keep in mind that the manufacture does not guarantee all graphic cards to be compatible for overclock.
> We advise you to read our descriptions carefully before purchase because the manufacture will not accept returns for compatibility issues."
> 
> Now I'm really confused as to what monitor to get for overlocking. Can someone please link me one from the UK, thanks.


I don't know why they are telling you its not overclockable, cause that is this single input Qnix and it definitely can be overclocked. They must just be trying to cover themselves or something.


----------



## Nikto11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> What I have read is that the SE versions are "Second Edition" versions and are slightly lower quality versions. Which would make sense with their pixel policy on that version. $15 is less than 5% of the purchase price so for me I would just spend the $15 extra to get the regular version.


Yeah I'm of the same opinion, since it's only $15 I'm going to go with the regular version that way I won't have any regrets if I were to get stuck pixels with the SE. They have some sort of Korean holiday so most sellers are shipping atm anyway, oh well. Thanks for your opinion.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Yeah Ive read about the overlord, but I searched Ebay, Amazon, and google shopping and couldn't turn up an results. Where can you order one?


Glossy


----------



## prognosis82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I don't know why they are telling you its not overclockable, cause that is this single input Qnix and it definitely can be overclocked. They must just be trying to cover themselves or something.


You're 100% sure it's overclockable then? Don't want to shell out the cash if it's not.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> You're 100% sure it's overclockable then? Don't want to shell out the cash if it's not.


As long as you have a DVI-D output on your GPU, then yes. 99.9%, you could always get a dud.


----------



## jcleary47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> That's the tape that is holding the tempered glass. Do what I did, take it apart and remove the glass.


Oh Jeez, I just took the tempered glass off mine and I think the monitor actually looks much better without it. Good stuff. Thanks!


----------



## prognosis82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> As long as you have a DVI-D output on your GPU, then yes. 99.9%, you could always get a dud.


I wonder why he said it wasn't overclockable then. It's sold by green-sum who I've heard is a reputable seller. So I doubt it'd be a dud?


----------



## LandonAaron

FYI: I messaged MNW Global about their Glossy version Qnix monitors. Here is the conversation.

Me: I am curious about the glossy versions. I have read some reports of people buying glossy Qnix monitors that are actually Matte with a sheet tempered glass. Are your Glossy version true glossy or tempered glass versions?

MNW Global: We know some unauthorized seller sold tempered glass version as glossy version.
I think it was cheating..
Our glossy version is real glossy finished panel. It's not tempered glass with matte.
Don't worry about it.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Seriously considering getting a HP ZR2740w, http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/hp_zr2740w_v2.htm, refurb at Amazon for only $299 instead of Qnix. While I really liked the Qnix the one thing that bothered me was the lack of deep blacks, and the mediocre contrast ratio. This has a much better contrast ratio and one of the lowest input lags of any IPS type monitor. Seems kind of similar to the Qnix in that it has no OSD or scaler. Wondering if it may be possible to overclock it at all.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Korean Holiday February 17 to 22nd: AccessoriesWhole and DreamSeller won't be shipping orders until the 23rd. Looks like MNW Global and Green Sum are still shipping orders though. Ugh, this is America damnit, we don't believe in holidays, we work 50 hours a week, go to the movies on Christmas, and do our shopping on Thanksgiving. I don't understand your "Holiday"!
Click to expand...

I think that is an older LG panel that came out over 3 years ago? And at one time *may?* have been able to be retrofitted with the overclocking kit from emaxon $80 HERE but the kits have been out of stock for awhile now and rumor is they may not get anymore. Checkout Rod's/Skorpion thread *HERE* ... he built an overclockable HP Z1 screen from scratch and could probably answere your questions in depth









Personally with your budget, I think your relying to much on manufacturer's numbers and since the Cat2B's seem to have dried up @ the $300 price range, Again







, I doubt you'd be disappointed with the QNIX Glossy that overclocks for $319 HERE ... I'd certainly take it over the HP refurb you list above









Yep the Korean's are the new America! ... they are extremely industrious/hard working and yet respect the family and personal time! ...
We however are working harder and longer with stagnant/falling wages ... "HOPE and CHANGE" how's that working out for the Middle Class? ... *NOT!* ...
And with a DISHONEST mainstream media/Whitehouse core, I see no relief in sight








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> Okay so I just asked 'green-sum' about this specific monitor he is selling:
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=141482167610&pAction=VISPEC
> 
> His reply was this:
> "Thank you for your interest. We are glad to be of your service.
> 
> The only monitor that we have at this time that may be overclockable is the Yamakasi "2B."
> However, please keep in mind that the manufacture does not guarantee all graphic cards to be compatible for overclock.
> We advise you to read our descriptions carefully before purchase because the manufacture will not accept returns for compatibility issues."
> 
> Now I'm really confused as to what monitor to get for overlocking. Can someone please link me one from the UK, thanks.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I don't know why they are telling you its not overclockable, cause that is this single input Qnix and it definitely can be overclocked. They must just be trying to cover themselves or something.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> You're 100% sure it's overclockable then? Don't want to shell out the cash if it's not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I agree ... 99.9% chance to OC to at least 96Hz ... I think you just got an inexperienced person w/green-sum, maybe the regular guy is on Holiday








As listed above, this one is even a little cheaper *HERE* ...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcleary47*
> 
> Oh Jeez, I just took the tempered glass off mine and I think the monitor actually looks much better without it. Good stuff. Thanks!


Amazing isn't it ... It's like getting a new screen, deeper blacks/less glare








We've been promoting removing the tempered glass for quite sometime ... I also don't believe any QNIX vendors have been assembling the tempered glass models for quite sometime. Which for the un-intimidated would be a potentially? great route to go for getting one of the older screens (old stock) NEW! Just remove the tempered glass and Viola ... better clocking? no PWM? ... maybe?







*New vs Old* ...


----------



## reasoner512

Hi all!

I just got a qx2710 and it's absolutely amazing! I do have one question though. I have a small bright spot towards the lower middle portion of my screen. It's not tinted a different color and it's not dead/stuck pixels. It kind of looks like backlight bleed, but it's not coming from the edges. See picture below. It looks like someone at the factory maybe pressed too hard on that particular spot. It's only noticeable on dark images. Would it be worth it to try and take out the panel to try and fix this? How would I go about doing so? Thanks in advance!


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I think that is an older LG panel that came out over 3 years ago? And at one time *may?* have been able to be retrofitted with the overclocking kit from emaxon $80 HERE but the kits have been out of stock for awhile now and rumor is they may not get anymore. Checkout Rod's/Skorpion thread *HERE* ... he built an overclockable HP Z1 screen from scratch and could probably answere your questions in depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally with your budget, I think your relying to much on manufacturer's numbers and since the Cat2B's seem to have dried up @ the $300 price range, Again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I doubt you'd be disappointed with the QNIX Glossy that overclocks for $319 HERE ... I'd certainly take it over the HP refurb you list above


I ended up going the QNIX route. They are a much more known quantity, and just so popular and there is such a large community for them, and will likely hold it resale value much better that I decided to go that route. I wanted something that offered some deeper blacks than the Qnix really the best alternative I found was a Dell nearly twice the price, the HP which is refurb and could be either two different models with the same model no., or the Aus PB278Q, which seems like an interesting option but the higher price, lack of overclocking, and the fact it is essentially the same panel kind of ruled it out.

I ended up getting a Pixel Perfect Glossy from MNW Global off Newegg for $315. Probably should have gone with Amazon just in case I had any problems, but I couldn't find any listing for Perfect Pixel that were less than $350. Guess I didn't look hard enough, oh well.


----------



## rsturtle

Just bought my Qnix off of Ebay for $295. I found one used with no dead pixels, and no (serious) backlight bleed. Matte finish just like I wanted. I think I got a steal on this one! She only overclocks to 110hz, but I don't mind that at all since it's otherwise a perfect panel.

QUESTION:
Since mine only goes to 110hz, (and I can't see any real screen color loss when overclocked to there), should I be running at 96hz? I know that the common consensus is that it allows for a smoother playback because most video is shot in 24fps, but can you guys tell a difference?


----------



## prognosis82

Okay I'm decided on getting this one then:
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=141482167610&pAction=VISPEC

Last question - I'm from the UK and heard there may be problems with importing/tax or something like that.
Can someone explain any issues that I may come across - do I need to take any action? Just a bit confused is all.
Thanks.


----------



## prognosis82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> Just bought my Qnix off of Ebay for $295. I found one used with no dead pixels, and no (serious) backlight bleed. Matte finish just like I wanted. I think I got a steal on this one! She only overclocks to 110hz, but I don't mind that at all since it's otherwise a perfect panel.
> 
> QUESTION:
> Since mine only goes to 110hz, (and I can't see any real screen color loss when overclocked to there), should I be running at 96hz? I know that the common consensus is that it allows for a smoother playback because most video is shot in 24fps, but can you guys tell a difference?


Do you mind linking where you bought? That sounds like an amazing steal!


----------



## xalyy

Hello guys! I'm looking forward to buy one of these 1440p monitors, but I couldn't decide. I would like to use it for basic things like web browsing, movies etc. but I would use it for gaming too so what do you think? Is it a good experience to game one of this monitor and which monitor especially? This is for now, thanks.


----------



## pandrade11

Really considering triple monitoring 3 of these..


----------



## Doomtomb

What do you guys think about this dude named "NCX" on Hardforum selling a QNIX 2710 for

*$NINE $HUNDRED $DOLLARS!!!!!!*


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doomtomb*
> 
> What do you guys think about this dude named "NCX" on Hardforum selling a QNIX 2710 for
> 
> *$NINE $HUNDRED $DOLLARS!!!!!!*


Apparently its because his monitor is PWM flicker free, and has no IPS Glow: 
I wouldn't pay that much for it, but his overclockable HP LG IPS panel looks interesting. Except for the part where he says it had 50+ stuck pixels, so he put the panel inside another panel???


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> Do you mind linking where you bought? That sounds like an amazing steal!


I got it used off of Ebay. I would suggest if you can buying one used, honestly. The only issue is you need to find one for sale in your country, so that shipping doesn't kill you. If you ask a seller what is wrong with a panel, they will surely tell you. I chose to do it that way rather than get one from Korea, since I could take all of the risk out of it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xalyy*
> 
> Hello guys! I'm looking forward to buy one of these 1440p monitors, but I couldn't decide. I would like to use it for basic things like web browsing, movies etc. but I would use it for gaming too so what do you think? Is it a good experience to game one of this monitor and which monitor especially? This is for now, thanks.


Things I've noticed: I cannot use this monitor in a windows environment at normal scale, it is simply uncomfortable to me. I use UI scaling on EVERYTHING, which reduces from the sharpness of the experience drastically. If you like the size of 1080p, then you will be okay. (I jumped from 720p to 1440p.) I love this monitor for gaming though. The response time is low enough for me that I never notice any input lag, but the colors are pretty darn good even overclocked. I would only suggest buying this panel is you have a decent rig though. You'll be wanting a $300 plus card for the best experience. I run a gtx970, (bios hacked and overclocked to 1525mhz/1925mhz), and can run everything at 1440p with filters off (or fxaa) and still be just around 50fps.

I can't comment on which is better, though I've been hearing that Qnix tend to have a little better shot at a perfect screen.


----------



## piee

have new qnix 07 panel it oc to 119 with pixel clk 559.98 no pmw flicker at max bright no dimming with oc but adj bri25 gama94 cont 0 to offset max brightness, has one dead pixel hardly noticiable minor BLB top right easy fix mounted VESA glossy all done on NVCP nothing else needed $319


----------



## piee

got it from korea


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doomtomb*
> 
> What do you guys think about this dude named "NCX" on Hardforum selling a QNIX 2710 for
> 
> *$NINE $HUNDRED $DOLLARS!!!!!!*


Wowzers! Someone's high lol


----------



## xalyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> I got it used off of Ebay. I would suggest if you can buying one used, honestly. The only issue is you need to find one for sale in your country, so that shipping doesn't kill you. If you ask a seller what is wrong with a panel, they will surely tell you. I chose to do it that way rather than get one from Korea, since I could take all of the risk out of it.
> Things I've noticed: I cannot use this monitor in a windows environment at normal scale, it is simply uncomfortable to me. I use UI scaling on EVERYTHING, which reduces from the sharpness of the experience drastically. If you like the size of 1080p, then you will be okay. (I jumped from 720p to 1440p.) I love this monitor for gaming though. The response time is low enough for me that I never notice any input lag, but the colors are pretty darn good even overclocked. I would only suggest buying this panel is you have a decent rig though. You'll be wanting a $300 plus card for the best experience. I run a gtx970, (bios hacked and overclocked to 1525mhz/1925mhz), and can run everything at 1440p with filters off (or fxaa) and still be just around 50fps.
> 
> I can't comment on which is better, though I've been hearing that Qnix tend to have a little better shot at a perfect screen.


Thanks, I have to pay customs fee right? How can I calculate how much would be it?


----------



## rsturtle

Well you only pay customs if it comes from another country. Every country has different policies, you'll have to look that up on your own. I know that customs in some countries will hold these and have fees as high as $50USD equivalent.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I ended up going the QNIX route. They are a much more known quantity, and just so popular and there is such a large community for them, and will likely hold it resale value much better that I decided to go that route. I wanted something that offered some deeper blacks than the Qnix really the best alternative I found was a Dell nearly twice the price, the HP which is refurb and could be either two different models with the same model no., or the Aus PB278Q, which seems like an interesting option but the higher price, lack of overclocking, and the fact it is essentially the same panel kind of ruled it out.
> 
> I ended up getting a Pixel Perfect Glossy from MNW Global off Newegg for $315. Probably should have gone with Amazon just in case I had any problems, but I couldn't find any listing for Perfect Pixel that were less than $350. Guess I didn't look hard enough, oh well.


Very Nice! Welcome to the club, lets us know how she overclocks, see my sig for overclocking link.
AND could you also run the PWM dimming test? Info *HERE* ....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> Just bought my Qnix off of Ebay for $295. I found one used with no dead pixels, and no (serious) backlight bleed. Matte finish just like I wanted. I think I got a steal on this one! She only overclocks to 110hz, but I don't mind that at all since it's otherwise a perfect panel.
> 
> QUESTION:
> Since mine only goes to 110hz, (and I can't see any real screen color loss when overclocked to there), should I be running at 96hz? I know that the common consensus is that it allows for a smoother playback because most video is shot in 24fps, but can you guys tell a difference?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> Do you mind linking where you bought? That sounds like an amazing steal!
Click to expand...

@rsturtle ... Very nice, I recommended that very monitor just a few days/pages ago *HERE* ... 96Hz is fine for desktop/videos ... AND if you also have a custom 110Hz profile in NVCP/CRU (fill in your specs please, see sig) and your monitor is recognized by windows, you'll be able to set the 110Hz refresh rate, or whatever custom profiles you have "In Game", especially with the newer titles









@prognosis82 Dang ... how did you miss my post 4days ago *HERE* ... it pays to diligently read this thread








Anyway I think you'll be happy with your choice, let us know how it OC's / PWM dimming / pixels-BLB etc









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xalyy*
> 
> Hello guys! I'm looking forward to buy one of these 1440p monitors, but I couldn't decide. I would like to use it for basic things like web browsing, movies etc. but I would use it for gaming too so what do you think? Is it a good experience to game one of this monitor and which monitor especially? This is for now, thanks.


Would be helpful to have more info like rig stats/present monitor (see sig) / glossy or matte finish / gaming preferences etc ... BUT in almost all cases, especially coming from 1080p/TN panel, most everyone is blown away with the improvement in their gaming experience ... you'll want to avoid the True10 multi-input models, get more info from my post *HERE* ... hope that helps get you started









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doomtomb*
> 
> What do you guys think about this dude named "NCX" on Hardforum selling a QNIX 2710 for
> 
> *$NINE $HUNDRED $DOLLARS!!!!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Wowzers! Someone's high lol
Click to expand...

A bit surprised you don't know who this is?









I want in on this action







... mine is perfect / no PWM / clocks over 120Hz ... a steal @ $799









In all seriousness if you are sensitive to PWM, it looks like you don't have much choice of getting PWM free with QNIX anymore?, unless you get lucky and come across some older stock, read some of my previous posts









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piee*
> 
> have new qnix 07 panel it oc to 119 with pixel clk 559.98 no pmw flicker at max bright no dimming with oc but adj bri25 gama94 cont 0 to offset max brightness, has one dead pixel hardly noticiable minor BLB top right easy fix mounted VESA glossy all done on NVCP nothing else needed $319


Very nice, welcome to the club, please fill in your stats (see sig) ... Also I'd bet this panel came from "green-sum" ...


----------



## xalyy

Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very Nice! Welcome to the club, lets us know how she overclocks, see my sig for overclocking link.
> AND could you also run the PWM dimming test? Info *HERE* ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @rsturtle ... Very nice, I recommended that very monitor just a few days/pages ago *HERE* ... 96Hz is fine for desktop/videos ... AND if you also have a custom 110Hz profile in NVCP/CRU (fill in your specs please, see sig) and your monitor is recognized by windows, you'll be able to set the 110Hz refresh rate, or whatever custom profiles you have "In Game", especially with the newer titles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @prognosis82 Dang ... how did you miss my post 4days ago *HERE* ... it pays to diligently read this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I think you'll be happy with your choice, let us know how it OC's / PWM dimming / pixels-BLB etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be helpful to have more info like rig stats/present monitor (see sig) / glossy or matte finish / gaming preferences etc ... BUT in almost all cases, especially coming from 1080p/TN panel, most everyone is blown away with the improvement in their gaming experience ... you'll want to avoid the True10 multi-input models, get more info from my post *HERE* ... hope that helps get you started
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bit surprised you don't know who this is?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want in on this action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... mine is perfect / no PWM / clocks over 120Hz ... a steal @ $799
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In all seriousness if you are sensitive to PWM, it looks like you don't have much choice of getting PWM free with QNIX anymore?, unless you get lucky and come across some older stock, read some of my previous posts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice, welcome to the club, please fill in your stats (see sig) ... Also I'd bet this panel came from "green-sum" ...


Uploaded rig info. I would like to buy a Qnix one matte, the Evolution II Matte, could you please link a trusted seller with the cheapest price I would like to buy it risk free, I mean I viewed alot of one but many has different details and I don't want to end up buying not the right monitor. Ty


----------



## LandonAaron

Some food for though when purchasing a monitor.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xalyy*
> 
> Thanks, I have to pay customs fee right? How can I calculate how much would be it?


If you live in America I don't think you have to pay customs when you purchase off of Amazon or Newegg. I don't know about Ebay. At least I didn't have to pay anything when I purchased one off Amazon, and I just bought one off Newegg, and haven't been asked to pay anything extra yet. I feel like they would tell you at the time of purchase that that would be required also.


----------



## Radmanhs

just to make sure, this is the one i want to go for? There was another one that was identical, but it cost $30 more. Also, if i do find an imperfect pixel, is there any way to fix it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f


----------



## bonedancr

Long time lurker, 1 year owner of Qnix QX2710 monitor. I have had it OC'd to 96 in Windows since day one. I recently moved to Ubuntu and am busy enjoying the learning curve of a new OS. U has some issues with these koren monitors and requires some customization of a file called Xorg.conf to ignore the fact that the hardware ID of the monitor is unknown.

There are a couple great posts on the net about how to set these up which I have followed. So anyway, I got the monitor up and running with the below Xorg.conf file and am now trying to figure out how to OC it to 96 like my Windows set-up. I have tried to follow the post at http://blog.patshead.com/2014/12/overclocking-my-qnix-qx2710-monitors-with-linux-and-xorg.html but unfortunately am not getting results (monitor test pattens on boot). Finally, when I ask CVT for a modeline recommendation I get:

Code:



Code:


# 2560x1440 95.92 Hz (CVT) hsync: 146.19 kHz; pclk: 519.25 MHz
Modeline "2560x1440_96.00"  519.25  2560 2776 3056 3552  1440 1443 1448 1524 -hsync +vsync

Which also; maybe there are other sections of the Xorg I need to tweak?

Code:



Code:


Section "ServerLayout"
    Identifier     "Layout0"
    Screen      0  "Screen0"
EndSection

Section "Files"
EndSection

Section "Monitor"
    Identifier     "Monitor0"
    VendorName     "QNIX"
    ModelName      "2710"
    HorizSync       88.8
    VertRefresh     59.5
    # 2560x1440 59.95 Hz (CVT 3.69M9-R) hsync: 88.79 kHz; pclk: 241.50 MHz
    Modeline "2560x1440R"  241.50  2560 2608 2640 2720  1440 1443 1448 1481 +hsync -vsync
    DisplaySize 597 336
    Option         "DPMS"
EndSection

Section "Device"
    Identifier     "Device0"
    Driver         "nvidia"
    VendorName     "NVIDIA Corporation"
    Option "NoLogo"
EndSection

Section "Screen"
    Identifier     "Screen0"
    Device         "Device0"
    Monitor        "Monitor0"
    DefaultDepth    24
    SubSection     "Display"
        Depth       24
        Modes "2560x1440"
    EndSubSection
    Option "UseEDID" "False"
    Option "UseEDIDDPI" "False"
    Option "UseEDIDFreqs" "False"
    Option "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"

### Metamode for single QX2710 (2560x1440)
    Option "metamodes" "DFP-0: 2560x1440 +0 +0"

### Metamode for dual QX2710 (5120x1440)
#   Option "metamodes" "DFP-0: 2560x1440_60 @2560x1440 +0+0, DFP-2: 2560x1440_60 @2560x1440 +2560+0"
EndSection


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xalyy*
> 
> Thanks.
> Uploaded rig info. I would like to buy a Qnix one matte, the Evolution II Matte, could you please link a trusted seller with the cheapest price I would like to buy it risk free, I mean I viewed alot of one but many has different details and I don't want to end up buying not the right monitor. Ty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> If you live in America I don't think you have to pay customs when you purchase off of Amazon or Newegg. I don't know about Ebay. At least I didn't have to pay anything when I purchased one off Amazon, and I just bought one off Newegg, and haven't been asked to pay anything extra yet. I feel like they would tell you at the time of purchase that that would be required also.
Click to expand...

Are we having a failure to communicate? I don't see any rig info ... "Click" on my link, in my signature, how to put rig details in your signature (sig). We still don't know what country your from?

Landon is right, no taxes, import duties or fees for USA ... we have a direct trade agreement w/SKorea









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just to make sure, this is the one i want to go for? There was another one that was identical, but it cost $30 more. Also, if i do find an imperfect pixel, is there any way to fix it?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f


Even though this is an overclockable panel, I don't think that is the one you want to get unless you are aware that it is "OFF-GRADE" meaning more than likely there will be pixel problems AND/OR screen "spots" (look like stains). We did have one guy report back his off-grade was "perfect" but I'd take his reporting with a grain of salt as we haven't heard from him since on any OC details? ...You also didn't clarify glossy or matte?



Glossy is a great deal right now ....

accessorieswhole .... $279 cheapest I've ever seen them!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e998e4ea3

green-sum ... slightly more reputable IMO, "piee" just recently bought this model $319, perfect panel he's very happy, see my post above.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651#shpCntId

Matte screens are getting harder to find at the same price ... it's ironic but for years the glossy model cost 2X's as much, BUT here's one at $319








http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7c39ae25

I'm also partial to bargain hunting for open box or slightly used (read my previous posts) like this one, usually can be had for slightly more than the off-grade prices and sometimes for less ...

Ebay Auction .... rsturtle just bought one, a bit high @$295 shipped ... they usually go around $225-$265 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-LED-Evolution-II-27-QHD-Samsung-PLS-Matte-Panel-PC-Monitor-QX2710LED-Used-/131421516261?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e995531e5

hope that helps


----------



## Radmanhs

would it be better to go for the preferred non perfect pixel matte one, or the perfect pixel glossy one, since they are the same price?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> would it be better to go for the preferred non perfect pixel matte one, or the perfect pixel glossy one, since they are the same price?


I guess it boils down to what you prefer. Glossy or Matte. I'd go with the glossy pixel perfect if room lighting isn't an issue.


----------



## Radmanhs

on average how many imperfect pixels are there on the non perfect pixel versions and can you also fix them if you push on them? or is that if they just died and have not been dead since arrival


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

After 1 day I haven't noticed any on mine yet


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> on average how many imperfect pixels are there on the non perfect pixel versions and can you also fix them if you push on them? or is that if they just died and have not been dead since arrival


I did a lot of research looking for mine, especially since I was chasing a perfect one. Most all sellers only sell them with less than five dead/hot pixels. Sellers don't care at how a dead pixel got there, and you'll likely have a hard time returning one of these for a defect. That being said, I would say the average range of dead pixels is 1-3 on most all panels, _*including perfect pixel monitors*._ Even though they say "perfect" most sellers allow up to two dead/hot pixels on those panels even. This is why most people will say not to spend the money on a pixel perfect, since the pixels are so darned small.

As for dead pixels coming back... sometimes they come back on their own. Sometimes they will come back if you flash color cycles for hours to "unstick" the pixel. Sometimes pressing on the screen lightly will bring it back. As far as I'm concerned a dead pixel is effectively dead, it's not common as far as I know for them to come back to life. (And even if they do they often go out again.) More on the press technique... 




I would go with what you like as far as glossy/matte. I've never had a matte finish monitor before, but that's what I got because it seemed like a good price for the matte version, (glossy tends to be much cheaper right now). I personally find the matte just right on these. Hope this helps!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> After 1 day I haven't noticed any on mine yet


Ignorance is bliss. If you find one, it might drive you nuts forever. (Even if I couldn't notice one, knowing it was there would bother me.) Mine I bought used and was supposed to be perfect, so I checked ASAP. Found nothing









If you want to check: http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php
Make sure to go full screen, and make the room as dark as possible especially if you're looking for backlight bleed.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Does anyone have a dead qnix they want to part out? I have one that the board/connectors are broken on. As soon as I switch the box from my other monitor it works fine. Please let me know as id love to bring my qnix back to life.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Does anyone have a dead qnix they want to part out? I have one that the board/connectors are broken on. As soon as I switch the box from my other monitor it works fine. Please let me know as id love to bring my qnix back to life.


As a matter of fact I do. I was planning on ebaying it. It fell off my desk and the panel broke. The screen looks find on the outside but when you connect it, it looks like a broken windshield all light up crazy. I only had it about 4 days before that happened. In that time I was able to overclock it to 96mhz, but never got the chance to try anything higher. PM if your interested.


----------



## tymann23

Does anyone have a Qnix QX2710 they bought in early 2014 and before with no noticeable light bleed that they'd like to sell? Currently running a glossy one with the LTM270DL02 panel in it that I love to death and really wanting to get another. Let me know if so please. Thanks!


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> Does anyone have a Qnix QX2710 they bought in early 2014 and before with no noticeable light bleed that they'd like to sell? Currently running a glossy one with the LTM270DL02 panel in it that I love to death and really wanting to get another. Let me know if so please. Thanks!


I have one i bought in early 2014 overclocks to 120 hz , but i cant sell it for enough to replace it with anything else.


----------



## tury345

nevermind


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> I did a lot of research looking for mine, especially since I was chasing a perfect one. Most all sellers only sell them with less than five dead/hot pixels. Sellers don't care at how a dead pixel got there, and you'll likely have a hard time returning one of these for a defect. That being said, I would say the average range of dead pixels is 1-3 on most all panels, _*including perfect pixel monitors*._ Even though they say "perfect" most sellers allow up to two dead/hot pixels on those panels even. This is why most people will say not to spend the money on a pixel perfect, since the pixels are so darned small.
> 
> As for dead pixels coming back... sometimes they come back on their own. Sometimes they will come back if you flash color cycles for hours to "unstick" the pixel. Sometimes pressing on the screen lightly will bring it back. As far as I'm concerned a dead pixel is effectively dead, it's not common as far as I know for them to come back to life. (And even if they do they often go out again.) More on the press technique...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would go with what you like as far as glossy/matte. I've never had a matte finish monitor before, but that's what I got because it seemed like a good price for the matte version, (glossy tends to be much cheaper right now). I personally find the matte just right on these. Hope this helps!
> Ignorance is bliss. If you find one, it might drive you nuts forever. (Even if I couldn't notice one, knowing it was there would bother me.) Mine I bought used and was supposed to be perfect, so I checked ASAP. Found nothing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to check: http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php
> Make sure to go full screen, and make the room as dark as possible especially if you're looking for backlight bleed.


Very nice well formed reply! +R for you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> As a matter of fact I do. I was planning on ebaying it. It fell off my desk and the panel broke. The screen looks find on the outside but when you connect it, it looks like a broken windshield all light up crazy. I only had it about 4 days before that happened. In that time I was able to overclock it to 96mhz, but never got the chance to try anything higher. PM if your interested.


Nice +R for keeping it in the family! ... great timing for you guys.
You would have no problem selling that on ebay probably for more than you'd think









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> Does anyone have a Qnix QX2710 they bought in early 2014 and before with no noticeable light bleed that they'd like to sell? Currently running a glossy one with the LTM270DL02 panel in it that I love to death and really wanting to get another. Let me know if so please. Thanks!


The older LTM270DL02 glossy is like gold ... good luck finding anyone to give theirs up









Actually you would have had a much better chance if the new Acer XB270HU came with the option for a glossy.

You guys might find *THIS* thread interesting non-the-less .... review coming in the next few weeks *HERE* ... only tweets so far HERE ...


----------



## Sploosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You guys might find *THIS* thread interesting non-the-less .... review coming in the next few weeks *HERE* ... only tweets so far HERE ...


The only problem with G-Sync is that I don't have a Nvidia GPU. Give me a FreeSync 1440p IPS and I'll be happy.

Also, does anyone have random blackscreens with their QNIX? Occasionally the screen will flash a black frame every now and then - especially when the computer comes back from being idle. Not sure if its the cable or just interacting with the graphics card.


----------



## prognosis82

So I just wanted to triple check that I'm going for the right monitor before I pull the trigger:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121496028479?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm from the UK and I assume that an EU->UK plug adapter will work fine with the power cable? (as it says it comes as an EU plug)
Will there be any customs charges to the UK?

Also is it OK to use a HDMI ---> DVI cable on these monitors or do I need a DVI ---> DVI cable?

Very excited to soon become an owner of one of these monitors! Thanks!


----------



## Sploosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> So I just wanted to triple check that I'm going for the right monitor before I pull the trigger:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121496028479?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> I'm from the UK and I assume that an EU->UK plug adapter will work fine with the power cable? (as it says it comes as an EU plug)
> Will there be any customs charges to the UK?
> 
> Also is it OK to use a HDMI ---> DVI cable on these monitors or do I need a DVI ---> DVI cable?
> 
> Very excited to soon become an owner of one of these monitors! Thanks!


Looks like the right one to me. It should only have a DVI-D input, and it does come with a DVI->DVI cable.


----------



## incog

What experience does anyone from France have with buying these monitors off ebay? In terms of customs or import fees or something


----------



## prognosis82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sploosh*
> 
> Looks like the right one to me. It should only have a DVI-D input, and it does come with a DVI->DVI cable.


Yeah but if I've got a device with only HDMI input (such as PS4/laptop, etc) can I use a HDMI -> DVI cable (PS4/laptop -> monitor)?
*Video Inputs: Dual Link DVI, Audio in* - I assume that's right then?


----------



## fleetfeather

Hmmm, having a hard time determining which monitor is the right one for me. I'm looking for 1440p, 95hz+, "IPS", strong colours, and low input lag. According to the TekSyndicate round-up, there's differences in response times amongst the different korean monitor panels.

I was going to jump on the CrossOver 27QD-P due to the near-guaranteed overclockability of it, but now I'm stressin' that the panel implementation is not as strong as other models out there.

Is there a quick and dirty summary of the differences between the different korean monitors and their respective panels? There appears to be quite a number of them around these days....


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> Yeah but if I've got a device with only HDMI input (such as PS4/laptop, etc) can I use a HDMI -> DVI cable (PS4/laptop -> monitor)?


No, you need to buy a unit with HDMI and a scaler, like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-pixel-DP2710-LED-MULTI-HDMI-AHVA-Panel-2560x1440-27-computer-Monitor-/221419815176

These are newer than the original Qnix True 10 monitors and might actually be LED PWM Dimming/Flicker Free (Side Effects) unlike the True 10 Qnix monitors. The multi-input glossy Crossover 27QW HDMI/DP and 2720MDP/2730MD are flicker free.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> Yeah but if I've got a device with only HDMI input (such as PS4/laptop, etc) can I use a HDMI -> DVI cable (PS4/laptop -> monitor)?
> *Video Inputs: Dual Link DVI, Audio in* - I assume that's right then?


I don't recall hearing of anyone being able to connect a PS to these monitors and getting it to work.
If your laptop only has HDMI, then it probably won't work either. If your laptop had DisplayPort, it might work with a powered adaptor.
I have tried a HDMI to DVI adaptor with my laptop, and it didn't work.

If the only things you're going to connect, are PS4 and laptop, you may want to consider the true10 version. They don't overclock as well (May get 85Hz), but you're not going to be OCing with PS4 or laptop anyway.

Edit: Ninja'd


----------



## prognosis82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> No, you need to buy a unit with HDMI and a scaler, like this:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-pixel-DP2710-LED-MULTI-HDMI-AHVA-Panel-2560x1440-27-computer-Monitor-/221419815176
> 
> These are newer than the original Qnix True 10 monitors and might actually be LED PWM Dimming/Flicker Free (Side Effects) unlike the True 10 Qnix monitors. The multi-input glossy Crossover 27QW HDMI/DP and 2720MDP/2730MD are flicker free.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I don't recall hearing of anyone being able to connect a PS to these monitors and getting it to work.
> If your laptop only has HDMI, then it probably won't work either. If your laptop had DisplayPort, it might work with a powered adaptor.
> I have tried a HDMI to DVI adaptor with my laptop, and it didn't work.
> 
> If the only things you're going to connect, are PS4 and laptop, you may want to consider the true10 version. They don't overclock as well (May get 85Hz), but you're not going to be OCing with PS4 or laptop anyway.
> 
> Edit: Ninja'd


Thanks for the answers guys. I'm going to be using the monitor with my computer so that's fine. Was just wondering if I could get away with using my PS/laptop with it too.


----------



## tury345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> So I just wanted to triple check that I'm going for the right monitor before I pull the trigger:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121496028479?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> I'm from the UK and I assume that an EU->UK plug adapter will work fine with the power cable? (as it says it comes as an EU plug)
> Will there be any customs charges to the UK?
> 
> Also is it OK to use a HDMI ---> DVI cable on these monitors or do I need a DVI ---> DVI cable?
> 
> Very excited to soon become an owner of one of these monitors! Thanks!


No idea on the EU plug, it came with a plug that worked in the USA and unless they're the same it doesn't come with an EU one.

It has to be DVI-D, nothing else will work, make sure your graphics card supports it. DVI and DVI-D are not the same thing at all.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tury345*
> 
> No idea on the EU plug, it came with a plug that worked in the USA and unless they're the same it doesn't come with an EU one.
> 
> It has to be DVI-D, nothing else will work, make sure your graphics card supports it. DVI and DVI-D are not the same thing at all.


Doesn't have to be DVI-D.

It does have to be Dual Layer (DL) DVI.


----------



## tymann23

So out of curiosity pertaining to the old LTM270DL02 panel, I sent a message to accessorieswhole asking him if he knew whether or not the matte/semi-glossy panels were also the new LTM270DL07 model, that's when he dropped what is to me, a big bomb shell. Here's the message:

Hi,
We're sorry for late response due to Korean New Year's Holiday.

LTM270DL02 is matte panel name.
LTM270DL07 is glossy panel name.

Matte panel is the metal frame.
Glossy panel is black.

If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
Thank you.

Was anyone else aware of this? I currently own a glossy LTM270DL02 panel, so my thinking is, they were discontinued and stock ran out on them, so the glossy panels now being used were switched over to this new LTM270DL07 panel, hence why glossy has become so much cheaper compared to about a year ago, and now matte/semi-glossy panels are more expensive. Very interesting.


----------



## LandonAaron

[
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> So out of curiosity pertaining to the old LTM270DL02 panel, I sent a message to accessorieswhole asking him if he knew whether or not the matte/semi-glossy panels were also the new LTM270DL07 model, that's when he dropped what is to me, a big bomb shell. Here's the message:
> 
> Hi,
> We're sorry for late response due to Korean New Year's Holiday.
> 
> LTM270DL02 is matte panel name.
> LTM270DL07 is glossy panel name.
> 
> Matte panel is the metal frame.
> Glossy panel is black.
> 
> If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
> Thank you.
> 
> Was anyone else aware of this? I currently own a glossy LTM270DL02 panel, so my thinking is, they were discontinued and stock ran out on them, so the glossy panels now being used were switched over to this new LTM270DL07 panel, hence why glossy has become so much cheaper compared to about a year ago, and now matte/semi-glossy panels are more expensive. Very interesting.


First I heard of it. But after a quick Google search it seems it was brought up in this thread before. Just got my new Gossy in. Kind of regretting going Glossy already. Having some major glare issues. Going to have to rearrange some furniture. And now I come here and see this only deepening my fears.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> So out of curiosity pertaining to the old LTM270DL02 panel, I sent a message to accessorieswhole asking him if he knew whether or not the matte/semi-glossy panels were also the new LTM270DL07 model, that's when he dropped what is to me, a big bomb shell. Here's the message:
> 
> Hi,
> We're sorry for late response due to Korean New Year's Holiday.
> 
> LTM270DL02 is matte panel name.
> LTM270DL07 is glossy panel name.
> 
> Matte panel is the metal frame.
> Glossy panel is black.
> 
> If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
> Thank you.
> 
> Was anyone else aware of this? I currently own a glossy LTM270DL02 panel, so my thinking is, they were discontinued and stock ran out on them, so the glossy panels now being used were switched over to this new LTM270DL07 panel, hence why glossy has become so much cheaper compared to about a year ago, and now matte/semi-glossy panels are more expensive. Very interesting.


Apparently all new Glossy are only LTM270DL07, the specifications that I found this show, are you sure that you have a real Glossy or is a Matte with tempered glass?

http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=21060,22246,12403

Panel Model : -LTM270DL07-M01 -LTM270DL06 -LTM270DL02
Surface Glare : -Antiglare (Haze 1%) -Antiglare (Haze 35%) -Antiglare (Haze 42%)


----------



## tymann23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Apparently all new Glossy are only LTM270DL07, the specifications that I found this show, are you sure that you have a real Glossy or is a Matte with tempered glass?
> 
> http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=21060,22246,12403
> 
> Panel Model : -LTM270DL07-M01 -LTM270DL06 -LTM270DL02
> Surface Glare : -Antiglare (Haze 1%) -Antiglare (Haze 35%) -Antiglare (Haze 42%)


I just read this page as well. Yes, I am 100% certain this is a true glossy. I actually bought this from Swolern. It had a little bit of bleed at the top, so I opened it up to fix it, and saw that it is in fact LTM270DL02, and there is no tempered glass taped on. I will say though that while it is reflective, it isn't super reflective gloss. My thinking is QNIX and X-star before used to bulk purchase A- LTM270DL02 panels that hadn't yet had a anti-glare coating put on them and then sold them as their glossy variant, and when the stock ran out on them, to keep their glossy lineup, had to switch to this LTM270DL07 panel, whereas the LTM270DL02 panel with the semi-glossy coating is still abundant. I'm personally trying to find the more rare LTM270DL06 matte/semi-glossy model, which have high chance from what I've seen to be IPS/PLS-glow free, and seem to have a bit better color calibration. This is very interesting, and I might be picking one of these semi-glossy ones to use alongside my glossy QNIX


----------



## CrazzyRussian

I'll make a separate thread about this tomorrow but I just finished calibrating my displays and discovered something very interesting

L02 (original) panel: %97 sRGB coverage
L07 (new, current) panel: *%89* sRGB coverage

Even after calibration the panels (L02 vs L07) still look noticeably different, with the colors of the L07 noticeably more "washed out"

I'll run the calibration a few more times for the panels and play with some settings but so far I think it's safe to say that the L07 panels are definitely lower quality.


----------



## tymann23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazzyRussian*
> 
> I'll make a separate thread about this tomorrow but I just finished calibrating my displays and discovered something very interesting
> 
> L02 (original) panel: %97 sRGB coverage
> L07 (new, current) panel: *%89* sRGB coverage
> 
> Even after calibration the panels (L02 vs L07) still look noticeably different, with the colors of the L07 noticeably more "washed out"
> 
> I'll run the calibration a few more times for the panels and play with some settings but so far I think it's safe to say that the L07 panels are definitely lower quality.


Yes, this is correct. NCX/Menacingtuba's tests have shown that the LTM270DL07 has around a 90% sRGB coverage while the 02 coverage is 97% Quick question, are yours the glossy version? Because from my understanding based on what Ebay sellers have said and based on these panel specifications, the new 07 is ONLY glossy, so the matte/semi-glossy is still using the LTM270DL02 panel, as well as the LTM270DL06 glow free panel that is more rare..


----------



## tymann23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Apparently all new Glossy are only LTM270DL07, the specifications that I found this show, are you sure that you have a real Glossy or is a Matte with tempered glass?
> 
> http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=21060,22246,12403
> 
> Panel Model : -LTM270DL07-M01 -LTM270DL06 -LTM270DL02
> Surface Glare : -Antiglare (Haze 1%) -Antiglare (Haze 35%) -Antiglare (Haze 42%)


:
Yes, I opened it up to fix some minor light bleed at the top, and it is LTM270DL02, and there is no sign of any tempered glass taped on. My thinking is the old glossy's were LTM270DL02 panels that were A- panels that didn't have the semi-glossy matte coating put on yet, and QNIX bought those in bulk to sell them as their glossy variant of the PLS QNIX QX2710, but then when they ran low on their stock of them, to have a more stable supply of glossy PLS panels, switched over the the EXCLUSIVELY glossy LTM270DL07 panel. It all makes sense now. The drop in quality and other variances, the fact that glossy's went from being more expensive then matte/semi-glossy, to less expensive etc.


----------



## LandonAaron

So has anyone ever tried doing an exchange on one of these monitors? Just purchased one of the glossy ones, and in light of the new information and some personal glare issues I am having, think I would rather have the matte version now. I'm assuming I'll be in for at least the return shipping, though I have no idea how much that would run going all the way to korea (probably not worth it), and a restocking fee considering I purchased it from Newegg. I really need to stop giving them so much business.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Over clocking on AMD is generally annoying.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So has anyone ever tried doing an exchange on one of these monitors? Just purchased one of the glossy ones, and in light of the new information and some personal glare issues I am having, think I would rather have the matte version now. I'm assuming I'll be in for at least the return shipping, though I have no idea how much that would run going all the way to korea (probably not worth it), and a restocking fee considering I purchased it from Newegg. I really need to stop giving them so much business.


If you purchased it on Newegg you can return it to the US. I think. Definitely ask the seller.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> :
> Yes, I opened it up to fix some minor light bleed at the top, and it is LTM270DL02, and there is no sign of any tempered glass taped on. My thinking is the old glossy's were LTM270DL02 panels that were A- panels that didn't have the semi-glossy matte coating put on yet, and QNIX bought those in bulk to sell them as their glossy variant of the PLS QNIX QX2710, but then when they ran low on their stock of them, to have a more stable supply of glossy PLS panels, switched over the the EXCLUSIVELY glossy LTM270DL07 panel. It all makes sense now. The drop in quality and other variances, the fact that glossy's went from being more expensive then matte/semi-glossy, to less expensive etc.


What I noticed is that for now the LTM270DL07 is only in Qnix/X-STAR and I haven't seen any other brand mount.
However, besides the low quality also have a much lower energy consumption(as per data sheet).


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Im looking to buy 3 of these monitors. The ones with only Dual DVI inputs. What videocard/cards will I need to buy to be able to run these.


----------



## tymann23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> What I noticed is that for now the LTM270DL07 is only in Qnix/X-STAR and I haven't seen any other brand mount.
> However, besides the low quality also have a much lower energy consumption(as per data sheet).


Right. Really unfortunate because it looks nowhere near as good as the old glossy. I really don't know what Samsung was thinking, I really don't.


----------



## CrazzyRussian

The older L02 just looks a bit darker and more saturated, I wish I knew that purchasing Matte screens would have avoided this problem because I bought these for a debezeled triple setup.

I think I'll have to spend a bit more money to track down a monitor with a good panel, and with all this headache from cheap korean monitors I might just give up the 96hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> Yes, this is correct. NCX/Menacingtuba's tests have shown that the LTM270DL07 has around a 90% sRGB coverage while the 02 coverage is 97% Quick question, are yours the glossy version? Because from my understanding based on what Ebay sellers have said and based on these panel specifications, the new 07 is ONLY glossy, so the matte/semi-glossy is still using the LTM270DL02 panel, as well as the LTM270DL06 glow free panel that is more rare..


Yes they were both glossy panels (the panels actually look different too, one has the PCB sticking out at the bottom while the other has if folded away onto the back like the L02), where can I find more info on these L06 panels?


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I just took apart my broken Qnix so I could do a practice run of the tape mod blacklight bleed fix, and came across something interesting. It seems my matte Qnix had the LTM270DL06 panel. In the few days I used it I noticed backlight bleed, and weak blacks. However it held darks better in the peripheral regions. By that I mean on my current panel if it is close to you and you look at the edges they kind of glow, the other one didn't. If that is what glow free refers to, then yes the L06 was glow free.





I haven't opened up my current glossy panel to see what it uses yet. I am working on an exchange with the seller, so I am not going to open it up, unless the exchange gets denied.

Getting the metal frame off is hard, and getting it back on is a freaking PITA. Only way I could do it was disconnecting the cables, and unscrewing the metal pcb cover on the back. Only then coud I get the metal frame around the little hooks the PCB cover has. I don't think I will try this on a working monitor. Maybe I will try the backlight bleed fix where people use a matchbook to slide the electric tape under the metal frame instead of actually removing the frame.


----------



## LandonAaron

Oh yeah. The broken matte panel I had, had the LTM270DL06 sticker on the back but it had LTM270DL02 stamped on the frame. FYI.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> So out of curiosity pertaining to the old LTM270DL02 panel, I sent a message to accessorieswhole asking him if he knew whether or not the matte/semi-glossy panels were also the new LTM270DL07 model, that's when he dropped what is to me, a big bomb shell. Here's the message:
> 
> Hi,
> We're sorry for late response due to Korean New Year's Holiday.
> 
> LTM270DL02 is matte panel name.
> LTM270DL07 is glossy panel name.
> 
> Matte panel is the metal frame.
> Glossy panel is black.
> 
> If you have any queries, please feel free to contact us.
> Thank you.
> 
> Was anyone else aware of this? I currently own a glossy LTM270DL02 panel, so my thinking is, they were discontinued and stock ran out on them, so the glossy panels now being used were switched over to this new LTM270DL07 panel, hence why glossy has become so much cheaper compared to about a year ago, and now matte/semi-glossy panels are more expensive. Very interesting.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Apparently all new Glossy are only LTM270DL07, the specifications that I found this show, are you sure that you have a real Glossy or is a Matte with tempered glass?
> 
> http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=21060,22246,12403
> 
> Panel Model : -LTM270DL07-M01 -LTM270DL06 -LTM270DL02
> Surface Glare : -Antiglare (Haze 1%) -Antiglare (Haze 35%) -Antiglare (Haze 42%)
Click to expand...

Yep we have had and posted this info for quite sometime ... and I concur with all your recent observations









Tuba originally brought it to our attention appx 4mos ago ... *HERE* and *HERE* ...









Your Data Sheet is even more detailed than the one I was working with *HERE* ... +R for you








AND I'll also add the L07 has a slower G2G spec @15ms vs 12ms, but don't let those numbers fool you as they aren't real world lag times but do help differentiate the panels are different beyond the troublesome sRGB colorspace.

Like I said just a few pages ago the L02 glossy's are like gold! ... we may never see them again and the Cat2B's are back up to $500 and don't seem to OC as well.

BUT there is a new kid on the block with all the bells n whistles (especially for Nvidia) *that truly competes* with our L02 IPS/PLS [email protected]+ unlike the disaster that the ROG Swift was (dull washed out heavy AG/TN) ... BUT it will cost you, I'm guessing (no USA pricing yet) $799 - $899 and if this came in a glossy version, it would be my next purchase ... check the Acer Predator XB270HU out *HERE* ...

Honestly, in reality the L07 even with it's deficiencies is still a heck of a deal @ $300 IMHO ... where else are you going to find an overclockable IPS/PLS 1440p panel for $300 ... nowhere









NOTE: TFT still pisses me off in that they never did do a QNIX-XStar / Cat2B / or Overlord Tempest running @ 120Hz for a review AND still list the QNIX multi-input True10 model as the "QNIX QX2710" in there "Response Time Graphs" (see below) when True10 is a totally different performing panel! ... it S*CKS


----------



## excelsias

Hi All - new to the "club" - just made an account yesterday after I received a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II. So, Apologies if I'm posting this in the wrong place but looking for some guidance.

I'm hoping someone can tell me if what I bought - (http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00CI3EQA2/) - uses PWM?

My old monitor was a pretty trusty (although very bland) Asus VS248. Have had it for a couple years and while not flashy, it's been sturdy. After plugging in the new Qnix yesterday, I've had really bad eye strain/headaches, even after adjusting DPI for the larger screen.

Any thoughts? I bought the Qnix on impulse after doing some minimal research. Knew it would be a kinda' risky purchase so bit at the PP option. The screen is great. I love it. But after hitting google for the last 4 hours trying to figure out what's giving me headaches, I hit on this PWM stuff.

Any guidance/thoughts are appreciated. I've reached out to the seller and can ship this back for $80, but don't want to bail on it unless I"m 100% sure it's giving me headaches. After using the old monitor for a few hours, I'm thinking this Qnix model is definitely using PWM and that it's buggin me.

Cheers, and thanks!


----------



## piee

at max brightness it won't us pwm then you can turn down brightness in the desktop application control panel(software controlled) basicaly it is like putting sunglasses on monitor, take a picture at 50% monitor brightness to check for pwm flicker(you will see horizontal lines if it does then turn monitor to max bright take picture shouldnt be lines if pwm free at max bright. I have newer DL07 panel and no flicker at max bright also oc to 119hz.


----------



## tymann23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Oh yeah. The broken matte panel I had, had the LTM270DL06 sticker on the back but it had LTM270DL02 stamped on the frame. FYI.


Wow, really? Interesting. May I ask how long ago you purchased this? And from which seller. Thanks. Also, yes IPS/PLS glow is a sort of white glow typically most prevalent in the bottom corners of a IPS/PLS/AH-VA panel. Sometimes it's in all 4. It's one of the biggest negatives to IPS/PLS technology. Just like TN's worse color reproduction and viewing angle issues and VA panels response time and screen uniformity issues.

This glow you will find affects just about ANY IPS/PLS monitor, but in rare cases you may find a "glow" free IPS/PLS model of a panel in more expensive monitor lineups. Hence why occasionally the LTM270DL06 will still even now be found in the matte/semi-glossy QNIX QX2710, given the fact they're A- premium grade S-PLS panels. I can't believe you broke it! Lol. I would have killed to have that thing.

Would you mind showing me which exact one you bought and from who? I saw that in your previous posts you were looking on Newegg, because I think I'll take the gamble and hope I get one of these. Because a glow free IPS/PLS monitor, especially one of the Samsung PLS QNIX QX2710 quality, is equivalent to finding an RoG swift monitor with a glossy panel and Samsung PLS grade colors! Lol, bad analogy I know.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *excelsias*
> 
> Hi All - new to the "club" - just made an account yesterday after I received a Qnix QX2710 Evolution II. So, Apologies if I'm posting this in the wrong place but looking for some guidance.
> 
> I'm hoping someone can tell me if what I bought - (http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-2560x1440/dp/B00CI3EQA2/) - uses PWM?
> 
> My old monitor was a pretty trusty (although very bland) Asus VS248. Have had it for a couple years and while not flashy, it's been sturdy. After plugging in the new Qnix yesterday, I've had really bad eye strain/headaches, even after adjusting DPI for the larger screen.
> 
> Any thoughts? I bought the Qnix on impulse after doing some minimal research. Knew it would be a kinda' risky purchase so bit at the PP option. The screen is great. I love it. But after hitting google for the last 4 hours trying to figure out what's giving me headaches, I hit on this PWM stuff.
> 
> Any guidance/thoughts are appreciated. I've reached out to the seller and can ship this back for $80, but don't want to bail on it unless I"m 100% sure it's giving me headaches. After using the old monitor for a few hours, I'm thinking this Qnix model is definitely using PWM and that it's buggin me.
> 
> Cheers, and thanks!


http://testufo.com/#test=blurtrail

Make a photo, if show more lines use PWM, if only one don't use PWM.


----------



## LandonAaron

Anyone have suggestions for the tape mod to fix back light bleed? I tried practicing on my broken Qnix, but removing the metal frame was difficult especially without first unplugging the connections, and it was even more difficult trying to get it back on. I could only get it back on after removing the PCB cover on the back of the panel, which is something I really don't want to do on the working monitor as it has very thin film like connections all across the top of the PCB, and I don't want to risk damaging them.

The backlight bleed is pretty significant though with backlight bleed coming from 3 out 4 corners, with the worst offender being the bottom right where the bleed reaches almost half way across the monitor vertically and horizontally, so I think its worth taking the risk to perform the mod.


----------



## tymann23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Anyone have suggestions for the tape mod to fix back light bleed? I tried practicing on my broken Qnix, but removing the metal frame was difficult especially without first unplugging the connections, and it was even more difficult trying to get it back on. I could only get it back on after removing the PCB cover on the back of the panel, which is something I really don't want to do on the working monitor as it has very thin film like connections all across the top of the PCB, and I don't want to risk damaging them.
> 
> The backlight bleed is pretty significant though with backlight bleed coming from 3 out 4 corners, with the worst offender being the bottom right where the bleed reaches almost half way across the monitor vertically and horizontally, so I think its worth taking the risk to perform the mod.


Could you post some photos of the bleed? Your description of the bleed in the bottom right corner sounds like normal IPS/PLS glow prevalent in almost all IPS/PLS monitors, I mentioned this in another post on the previous page. You just may have a more severe case of glow. And since your last Qnix was the glow free Matte/semi-glossy LTM270DL06 PLS panel you may not be used to the glow yet. It can be very distracting on it's own even without actual back light bleed. Oh yea, I was wondering where did you buy your matte QNIX with the LTM270DL06 panel? Could you show me the actual product page for it please? Thank you.


----------



## Kindred1

Hi guys i have a problem with my monitor just wanted to see if i can fix or i have to buy another
so what i did was i removed the AG film and everything was perfect except when i tried to clean it
as soon as i sprayed some water on it i got hundreds of these little vertical lines all over the place with different lenghts and brightness you can even see the indents when the monitor is off
when its a bright screen they are hard to notice only on blacks they are extremely noticeable i will put some picturse
also this monitor over clocks to 128Hz so im not sure if i can get another with this control board
i read about the process from another site and it never mentions anything about the micro fracture so when i came here the first thing i noticed was that in big red letters not to clean when its still hot
its my fault i should of done some more research
so the question basically is this is it possible to repair the screen can i just buy the panel separately or i have to buy the whole thing over again
let me know what you guys think please


----------



## LandonAaron

To anyone interested the Qnix I purchased with the LTM270DL06 panel was purchased from here: http://LTM270DL06]LTM270DL06[/URL] from MNW Global. They can't tell you ahead of time what panel you will get though, but the one I purchased on February 6th, 2015 had this panel.


----------



## Muscles

Is this the OG version, non True10? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7c39ae25


----------



## LandonAaron

Here is an excellent review of the newer LTM270DL07 panel found in the Glossy Qnix's. He also covers some changes to the internals of the Qnix, which I found was true for my matte qnix as well. Mainly that the panel is only held in place by two small L brackets and shifts around alot.

Edi: forgot the link,


----------



## Gabe324

ok so i was hearing alot of people saying that the glossy versions of these monitors are actually tempered glass on top , so i decided to take out that tempered glass myself , but once i did it and turned on the monitor all i see is white now.... i can still see the image but its very very slight , guess mines wasn't tempered glass lol... i just messed up my monitor


----------



## N3RORE

I do not know if I'm crazy or not, but I bought yesterday a QX2710 Matte used (do not know if it's a LTM270DL02 or LTM270DL06), who sold it to me told me that is a PWM free and He bought a year ago exactly.
As it arrives I try to make a comparison with my Glossy(that I'll sell immediately).


----------



## Clockstep

Hey guys, decided I'm going to take the plunge and buy a 27'' korean IPS that is overclockable. I know I need one with dvi-d only input.

I can't decide between spending around 300 for a Perfect Pixel Glossy Qnix2710, or buying the MOTV M2700LED Perfect Pixel off Green-Sum's website for 370 dollars.

I was going to get the glossy pixel perfect Qnix from here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419&cm_re=qnix-_-0JC-0009-00031-_-Product
I think Newegg will make the return process easier if I have to return it.

However, from what I have researched, all the Qnix versions have been changed recently and have a lower quality panel (something about less sRGB representation) Also I read the new ones have PWM which adds motion blur.

MOTV M2700LED Perfect Pixel seems like a great choice..its overclockable, has no PWM, and has good sRGB capabilities. Also has no gamma shift when overclocked, which the Qnix apparently suffers from.

The only thing I worry about now is backlight bleeding and IPS glow.

Can anyone tell me what the better choice is for me? Thanks a lot.

Also, I did manage to win a used Glossy Qnix2710 for 190 dollars, but it has not arrived yet. These are the pictures the seller has provided me, do you think this looks okay? Is this backlight bleed or IPS glow? I can't tell. Can this bleed/glow in the darkest image be fixed by opening the panel and taping? (Which I am willing to do). Also the white line in the red image is his light in the back. Thanks for any help or guidance you guys can provide, really appreciate it.


----------



## electro2u

iirc the MOTV is IPS (same as original Yamakasi Catleap)
it is an excellent choice.

Unfortunately the Qnix you bid on is a QX2700*** not 2710
The 2700 doesn't overclock.


----------



## Clockstep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> iirc the MOTV is IPS (same as original Yamakasi Catleap)
> it is an excellent choice.
> 
> Unfortunately the Qnix you bid on is a QX2700*** not 2710
> The 2700 doesn't overclock.


The seller has assured me it is the QX2710 and only takes DVI-D. Is there something from the pictures that says otherwise?

edit: Just realized it says 2700 in the item name, however the seller told me he's selling it because he needs something with HDMI input.


----------



## tymann23

If you're only considering Glossy panels, then yes the MOTV would be the better choice. The matte/semi-glossy QNIX QX2710 is still using the original panel with the fantastic colors, it's the glossy version that has been changed. So if you're going with matte, I'd definitely say you should go with the matte QNIX QX2710, glossy I would go with the MOTV or Yamakasi Catleap 2B OC or the Overlord Tempest.


----------



## Clockstep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tymann23*
> 
> If you're only considering Glossy panels, then yes the MOTV would be the better choice. The matte/semi-glossy QNIX QX2710 is still using the original panel with the fantastic colors, it's the glossy version that has been changed. So if you're going with matte, I'd definitely say you should go with the matte QNIX QX2710, glossy I would go with the MOTV or Yamakasi Catleap 2B OC or the Overlord Tempest.


Ah thank you so much I did not know this. It is confirmed that the current matte Qnix 2710's selling on ebay/newegg will have no PWM? What about IPS glow and bleed?

Also what do you think about MOTV glossy vs the Qnix matte? I have only ever used matte displays and if the glossy versions truly do have sharper colors I probably want to go for that, since my lighting is pretty well controlled. Also I read that the MOTV had lower response times and better colors than the matte/glossy Qnix?


----------



## electro2u

I don't go out of my way to recommend any of them anymore because it's really a crapshoot as far as glow and backlight bleed, but you can win. No one knows what's going on over there about PWM, but if I had to guess, the Qnix very well may use pwm if you order one, it might not, they have lots of both--the Catleaps and MOTVs are, as far as I know PWM free. response times on all the single input displays are very low, no advantage to be had there.

The matte Qnix has excellent sRGB coverage and no one could tell the difference between 96% and 99% without a colorimeter, so again no advantage to be had there either. Glossy vs Matte isn't about color it's about clarity. The matte films essentially blur the screen very faintly.

Unless you absolutely need matte because of *open* windows behind the viewer, the glossy film protecting the panel on the MOTV and Catleap is *not* a mirror, but it *is* sharper than the Qnix matte screens. The colors themselves are excellent either way.


----------



## Clockstep

Thanks for info electro. One more question, why the heck is Green-Sum selling the Pixel Perfect MOTV for 370 dollars on his site, when the same models (Overlord, Catleap 2B) are going for 500+?

http://green-sum.com/motv-m2700led-qplus-perfect-pixel-3216.html

Should I jump on the MOTV for 370 deal? Or go with a matte Qnix? (Assuming the matte Qnix available still have their nice, original panels and not the washed out ones I saw previously in this thread)

What do you think?

Is it simply a question of glossy vs matte here? (Assuming they are pretty equal in terms of image, but this:http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/8424/900x900pxll3529558f33kr.jpg, has me leaning strongly towards glossy)

Another thing to consider..the price of pixel perfect matte is about 380 now on ebay/amazon/newegg. But non pixel perfect matte qnix can be had for 300-340. I definitely want a pixel perfect version as I want to persuade the sellers to pick a good panel for me.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minotza*
> 
> Thanks for info electro. One more question, why the heck is Green-Sum selling the Pixel Perfect MOTV for 370 dollars on his site, when the same models (Overlord, Catleap 2B) are going for 500+?
> 
> http://green-sum.com/motv-m2700led-qplus-perfect-pixel-3216.html
> 
> Should I jump on the MOTV for 360 deal? Or go with a matte Qnix? (Assuming the matte Qnix available still have their nice, original panels and not the washed out ones I saw previously in this thread)
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> Is it simply a question of glossy vs matte here? (Assuming they are pretty equal in terms of image)
> 
> Another thing to consider..the price of pixel perfect matte is about 380 now on ebay/amazon/newegg. But non pixel perfect matte qnix can be had for 300-340. I definitely want a pixel perfect version as I want to persuade the sellers to pick a good panel for me.


Yes, I think matte vs glossy is the bottom line. Assuming PWM free, minimal pixel defects and proper construction, the Qnix/Xstar (PLS) and Catleap/Overlord/MOTV (IPS) are comparable.

The price of the Catleaps is volatile. I cannot explain that. My experience with GreenSum was OK and produced my favorite monitor out of the 5 Koreans I have tested. I actually called GreenSum on the phone to complain about shipping with wrong carrier, and she fixed it. But I have seen those listings from GreenSum anywhere from 350-$1000 over the last year or so, and that's slightly bizarre. My speculation is that the 2B OC has a lot of word of mouth advertising after years of being the fastest IPS type panel available, and since MOTV is not well known by anyone unless they follow the wecravegamestoo reviews for 1440p monitors, that may explain the current price difference. Catleap 2B OCs were ~350ish fairly recently but I think it had to do with competition from new Gsync monitors etc, although there have been many reports of weak overclocks from those cheap Catleaps as well.

The guys who make Overlord monitors started out just importing Catleaps several years ago and then had some sort of split with GreenSum or something and started developing their own OC board. Overlord is less of a gamble as far as the 1 year warranty for North American buyers, so they can command a higher price, along with the relative posterity of their boutique brand.

I like DreamSeller/Ecomade Arena on Amazon. Good communication, and 2 absolutely perfect Matte Qnix panels received from him. Sent me a Zowie mousepad with the second monitor because I had scratched the first one (was cleaning my giant heavy keyboard and well... scraped the corner on the monitor).


----------



## Clockstep

Okay, once again thanks for the info. I guess now I'm just stuck deciding between a matte Qnix or a the glossy MOTV from Green-Sum's site. The Overlord at 450 is too much for me. Also is the gamma shift after overclocking with Qnix correctable? Did your matte Qnix come with any IPS Glow? What about backlight bleed? I know you said they were perfect but I figure they just can't be at this price lol. Thanks for your time!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minotza*
> 
> Did your matte Qnix come with any IPS Glow? What about backlight bleed? I know you said they were perfect but I figure they just can't be at this price lol. Thanks for your time!


One was completely glow free with no backlight bleed. The other had very minor glow and no backlight bleed. The quality of the casing manufacturing seems to vary a lot on the Qnix so thats why I went with Amazon for those 2. The looser casing construction is, the more likely the panel will show backlight bleed. I have always ordered pixel perfect monitors and they have all been pixel perfect except my Catleap has one weird stuck pixel that takes whatever color the center of the screen is, but its on the bezel edge and I haven't actually noticed it ever without hunting for it.

I wish you lots of luck, the truth is, most people are happy with their monitors that do this.


----------



## tymann23

If you're only considering Glossy panels, then yes the MOTV would be the better choice. The matte/semi-glossy QNIX QX2710 is still using the original panel with the fantastic colors, it's the glossy version that has been changed. So if you're going with matte, I'd definitely say you should go with the matte QNIX QX2710, glossy I would go with the MOTV or Yamakasi Catleap 2B OC or the Overlord Tempest.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> One was completely glow free with no backlight bleed. The other had very minor glow and no backlight bleed. The quality of the casing manufacturing seems to vary a lot on the Qnix so thats why I went with Amazon for those 2. The looser casing construction is, the more likely the panel will show backlight bleed. I have always ordered pixel perfect monitors and they have all been pixel perfect except my Catleap has one weird stuck pixel that takes whatever color the center of the screen is, but its on the bezel edge and I haven't actually noticed it ever without hunting for it.
> 
> I wish you lots of luck, the truth is, most people are happy with their monitors that do this.


100% truth right here. Also, not to make your decision tougher, but just to let you know the matte finish on the QNIX is much lighter than most, to the point where it's almost semi-glossy. So it's not too obtrusive. But the MOTV is a good monitor from what i've heard. By the way electro, do you still have the glow free QNIX? If so, would you ever consider selling it?







If not, was the glow free one you got from Dream-Seller or Ecomade? Because LandonAaron on here purchased a matte QNIX a couple weeks ago on Amazon from MNW Global and it turned out to be the glow-free LTM270DL06 panel. So those are definitely still floating around, I REALLY want to get my hands on one of them


----------



## electro2u

I'm sorry, I sold it on eBay after I got the catleap. The buyer was extremely happy with it. Iirc dream seller and Ecomade Arena are the same person. They had the same exact address on the myups tracking info. Specifically I got them from Ecomade Arena.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kindred1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys i have a problem with my monitor just wanted to see if i can fix or i have to buy another
> so what i did was i removed the AG film and everything was perfect except when i tried to clean it
> as soon as i sprayed some water on it i got hundreds of these little vertical lines all over the place with different lenghts and brightness you can even see the indents when the monitor is off
> when its a bright screen they are hard to notice only on blacks they are extremely noticeable i will put some picturse
> also this monitor over clocks to 128Hz so im not sure if i can get another with this control board
> i read about the process from another site and it never mentions anything about the micro fracture so when i came here the first thing i noticed was that in big red letters not to clean when its still hot
> its my fault i should of done some more research
> so the question basically is this is it possible to repair the screen can i just buy the panel separately or i have to buy the whole thing over again
> let me know what you guys think please


Bummer ... saw your ad on ebay, that's a shame and I'm pretty sure that is the preferred L02 panel ...
I know of no way to repair that kind of damage without replacing the panel itself









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muscles*
> 
> Is this the OG version, non True10? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7c39ae25


Yep that's the one ... more info *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Here is an excellent review of the newer LTM270DL07 panel found in the Glossy Qnix's. He also covers some changes to the internals of the Qnix, which I found was true for my matte qnix as well. Mainly that the panel is only held in place by two small L brackets and shifts around alot.
> 
> Edi: forgot the link,


Haven't seen that particular vid by Tuba ... it's *excellent*, even with the fast/mono-tone narrative








+Rep for you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabe324*
> 
> ok so i was hearing alot of people saying that the glossy versions of these monitors are actually tempered glass on top , so i decided to take out that tempered glass myself , but once i did it and turned on the monitor all i see is white now.... i can still see the image but its very very slight , guess mines wasn't tempered glass lol... i just messed up my monitor


That was a problem in the past (over 6mos ago), but since some of us got on the suppliers back then, almost all of the listings have been corrected to differentiate between true glossy and tempered glass and we have not seen that problem since ... probably because most in their right mind would never want the compromised PQ tempered glass has to offer and hence no one orders them anymore ... even Overlord wised up and quit offering them.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minotza*
> 
> Hey guys, decided I'm going to take the plunge and buy a 27'' korean IPS that is overclockable. I know I need one with dvi-d only input.
> 
> I can't decide between spending around 300 for a Perfect Pixel Glossy Qnix2710, or buying the MOTV M2700LED Perfect Pixel off Green-Sum's website for 370 dollars.
> 
> I was going to get the glossy pixel perfect Qnix from here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419&cm_re=qnix-_-0JC-0009-00031-_-Product
> I think Newegg will make the return process easier if I have to return it.
> 
> However, from what I have researched, all the Qnix versions have been changed recently and have a lower quality panel (something about less sRGB representation) Also I read the new ones have PWM which adds motion blur.
> 
> MOTV M2700LED Perfect Pixel seems like a great choice..its overclockable, has no PWM, and has good sRGB capabilities. Also has no gamma shift when overclocked, which the Qnix apparently suffers from.
> 
> The only thing I worry about now is backlight bleeding and IPS glow.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what the better choice is for me? Thanks a lot.
> 
> Also, I did manage to win a used Glossy Qnix2710 for 190 dollars, but it has not arrived yet. These are the pictures the seller has provided me, do you think this looks okay? Is this backlight bleed or IPS glow? I can't tell. Can this bleed/glow in the darkest image be fixed by opening the panel and taping? (Which I am willing to do). Also the white line in the red image is his light in the back. Thanks for any help or guidance you guys can provide, really appreciate it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> iirc the MOTV is IPS (same as original Yamakasi Catleap)
> it is an excellent choice.
> 
> Unfortunately the Qnix you bid on is a QX2700*** not 2710
> The 2700 doesn't overclock.
Click to expand...

First off I want to +Rep Electro and Tymann for accurate/detailed responses to minotza with a few additions









1) Confirmed that is a QX2700 LG S-IPS from around 2012 (no longer available) not an OC'able QX2710 PLS. I can see it in your pics, top / left side bezel says QX2700LED ... But don't dismay that is a heck of a buy for an LG S-IPS 1440p glossy panel ... what you say? .. yep back in the day QNIX had the same panel as Yamakazi/Crossover/Motv etc etc

2) I can't say this loud enough ... even if you can find an older QNIX/X-Star L02 Matte or glossy PLS panel ...
IT IS NOT GUARANTEED TO BE PWM DIMMING FREE








Even back in 2013 it was always an UNRELIABLE lottery at best









So if you can't afford (+$80) for the Overlord Tempest and even worse wait for stock (your not guaranteed to get one when they do come in) ... I'd go for the MOTV like the others suggested ... hope that helps clear things up


----------



## Clockstep

Wow Tomcat thank you...I just noticed the 2700 on the bezel..the seller told me he's getting rid of it because it doesn't support hdmi..weird. Either way I just requested a refund for it and will probably buy the MOTV or a matte Qnix, I just still can't decide.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201293344205?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That was the listing for the 2700 where he says it only supports DVI-D input.

Also this video: 



Seems to show the 2700 with DVI only input as well. So, now I'm confused, are there 2700 models with DVI only input that DON'T overclock?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minotza*
> 
> Hey guys, decided I'm going to take the plunge and buy a 27'' korean IPS that is overclockable. I know I need one with dvi-d only input.
> 
> I can't decide between spending around 300 for a Perfect Pixel Glossy Qnix2710, or buying the MOTV M2700LED Perfect Pixel off Green-Sum's website for 370 dollars.
> 
> I was going to get the glossy pixel perfect Qnix from here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419&cm_re=qnix-_-0JC-0009-00031-_-Product
> I think Newegg will make the return process easier if I have to return it.
> 
> However, from what I have researched, all the Qnix versions have been changed recently and have a lower quality panel (something about less sRGB representation) Also I read the new ones have PWM which adds motion blur.
> 
> MOTV M2700LED Perfect Pixel seems like a great choice..its overclockable, has no PWM, and has good sRGB capabilities. Also has no gamma shift when overclocked, which the Qnix apparently suffers from.
> 
> The only thing I worry about now is backlight bleeding and IPS glow.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what the better choice is for me? Thanks a lot.
> 
> Also, I did manage to win a used Glossy Qnix2710 for 190 dollars, but it has not arrived yet. These are the pictures the seller has provided me, do you think this looks okay? Is this backlight bleed or IPS glow? I can't tell. Can this bleed/glow in the darkest image be fixed by opening the panel and taping? (Which I am willing to do). Also the white line in the red image is his light in the back. Thanks for any help or guidance you guys can provide, really appreciate it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Unless your buying directly from Newegg the return process won't be a good one. I purchased a Glossy monitor through Newegg from MNW Global, and when I asked about doing an exchange for the Matter version I was told I would need to pay for the return shipping, and for the shipping of the second monitor, about $170 total.

Not all of the Qnix's are using lower quality panels now. Just the Glossy one's. The Matte one's are still using either the LTM270DL02 (regular PLS) or LTM270DL06 (glow free PLS), only the glossy is using the LTM270DL07 panel which has lower sRGB coverage, and slightly washed out colors. However it does have a couple of advantage in that it has better black detail, and does not change color or brightness levels when overclocked. Still I would recommend the matte over the glossy.

Also the LTM270DL02's BLB can't be fixed with the tape mod. I opened mine up, and found that it already is taped completely on all sides. However moving around the foam blocks and replacing some of them with a softer weatherstrip foam material so that there is more even pressure on the back of the panel fixed most of the BLB. However, the IPS glow is pretty strong on this panel.


----------



## Clockstep

Wow, thank you for that post!

I may just pull the trigger on this then: http://green-sum.com/motv-m2700led-qplus-perfect-pixel-3216.html

I just don't know if I'll end up regretting glossy over matte or not. I have a glossy 2560x1440 13inch asus zenbook and I love the screen even if I do see some reflections.

I also have an asus vg248qe which I should have never bought, since the colors are completely washed out and lifeless even after using the popular ICC profiles.

I just don't know if a matte Qnix is so much better than my vg248qe TN 1080p panel that the whole glossy vs matte comparison becomes pointless. Basically it just comes down to money now and the pixel free matte Qnix models are all 380+ so I'm thinking I should just go with the MOTV since it has no gamma shift when overclocked and noticeably less motion blur while overclocked. Also according to NCX's review it may have an easier time hitting 120hz refresh rate?

Ah decisions, decisions.

I'm still bugged out by the fact that the MOTV = Catleap 2B yet the catleap is 1k+ on Green-sum's ebay store and the MOTV is 370 on Green-sum's site.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minotza*
> 
> Also according to NCX's review it may have an easier time hitting 120hz refresh rate?


This is what I suspect as well, but this is a total crapshoot too, for any of them except possibly the MOTV because it is a newer product and we don't have any numbers other than a couple.

Another suspicion I have is that Greensum may sometimes base her price for Catleaps on either quality grade of the panel batches or her current inventory of them.


----------



## Clockstep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> This is what I suspect as well, but this is a total crapshoot too, for any of them except possibly the MOTV because it is a newer product and we don't have any numbers other than a couple.
> 
> Another suspicion I have is that Greensum may sometimes base her price for Catleaps on either quality grade of the panel batches or her current inventory of them.


So if this is true then I shouldn't buy the MOTV since it is 370, meanwhile the Catleaps 2B cannot be found for less than 1k? Now I'm worried the MOTV for 370 will have bad issues due to its cheaper pricing


----------



## electro2u

I think it's that she has plenty of them and would like to get rid of them for more inventory space but that's major speculation on my part.


----------



## Clockstep

Okay I think I'm going to settle on the MOTV. The pixel perfect matte Qnix are all running 380+ now =/

Is lighting really hard to control for a glossy 27'' catleap/motv panel? I just don't want to regret not going matte.


----------



## Kindred1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Bummer ... saw your ad on ebay, that's a shame and I'm pretty sure that is the preferred L02 panel ...
> I know of no way to repair that kind of damage without replacing the panel itself


Yeah thats mine it was so bummed out when it happened at least the board is still good
so if i decide to get another i know ill get 128 for sure unless someone buys it first lol


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minotza*
> 
> Okay I think I'm going to settle on the MOTV. The pixel perfect matte Qnix are all running 380+ now =/
> 
> Is lighting really hard to control for a glossy 27'' catleap/motv panel? I just don't want to regret not going matte.


Hello,
in alternative, look the new Crossover 2795 -> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&ghostText=&_sacat=0&_nkw=Crossover+2795&_sop=15
Overclockable @ 75 Hz.
Regards.


----------



## Clockstep

Looks good but 75hz won't cut it since my GTX 680 pushes out more fps than that =/ And the next GPU I buy will too, so 75hz max isn't that great for future proofing.


----------



## Gabe324

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabe324*
> 
> ok so i was hearing alot of people saying that the glossy versions of these monitors are actually tempered glass on top , so i decided to take out that tempered glass myself , but once i did it and turned on the monitor all i see is white now.... i can still see the image but its very very slight , guess mines wasn't tempered glass lol... i just messed up my monitor


Anyone have a idea on how i can fix this???? Do i buy a film for the panel?


----------



## Clockstep

I am arranging a trade with someone on craigslist for a pixel perfect matte Qnix2710. I am going to give him my Asus VG248QE for it. Here is the light bleed test pic he sent me: 

Obviously there is bleed in the right hand corner. I am planning on opening and taping/seeing what is wrong in that spot to try and fix it. Do you guys think that bleed is fixable and is the trade is worth it? Thanks.


----------



## Kindred1

i have an option to get a 30" Leonidas for $325 delivered you guys think i should ?


----------



## N3RORE

A small consideration, all users that have the new Glossy (like me) do not really have a calibrated profile as those who have an L02 or L06.
For example I'm using an ICC for Glossy L02/L06 located on the front page but it is not calibrated correctly for the L07.
It would be interesting to know who maybe has created an ICC for L07 to test it.


----------



## excelsias

I'm trying to get a new Qnix Qx2710 above 96hz with little success. I realize that I may have a panel that just can't handle it, but that being said, I'm still trying.

I've tried these settings:
Lawsons OC timings: http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club
These from Hardform: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1819955

And a few others ... I've had 110hz ALMOST come through with no scan lines, but get a few intermittent, horizontal green scan lines running across the top inch of the monitor.

120hz is ALWAYS a mess of green scan lines running all over the place.

96hz runs with default settings from CRU. For a GPU, I have an R290x.

My question is - what's the easiest way to find more timings or start to fiddle with them on my own? Realistically I don't know how to start troubleshooting or experimenting to find something that will work at 110 or 120, and need some guidance on what the timings mean and how to start some trial & error work.


----------



## Clockstep

Anyone know what is going on here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221614922041

Is the same exact thing as the matte Qnix2710?

I asked the seller if its DVI-D only and he said yes.

So is this PLS or AH-VA? Is this overclockable? Thanks for any help!

I asked him about it and he replied:
"Thanks for your interest in this item. Since the "Perfect Pixel" policy is not applicable for this monitor, up to 4 dead pixels is not a valid reason for return. For any other issue such as no picture, blinking, distortion etc. we will gladly provide the cost for repair (if repair service is available locally), grant a partial refund (for minor defects) or accept returns within 14 days from delivery and issue a full refund. Please also check the voltage and plug shape before you place an order. and it has only dual DVI port. not HDMI one. Thank you."

and

"we always ship brand new item as soon as we secure stock from authorized supplier







but it can be damaged in the process of shipping becuase monitor is fragile. please consider it before placing an order. we always try to do our best to supply the best quality of item and resolve any issue cuased to buyer. Thank you."

Not sure if I should take the gamble with this..

Is this a better choice? http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/X-Star-DP2710-Monitor-p/xst1.htm
US Return shipping and warranty on any problems it seems. Only thing is it lists the DP2710 as having a response time of 8 vs the qnix 2710 having one of 6 on that site. Not sure if these listings are accurate or not?

Also should I go with the glossy MOTV which uses S-IPS, or the matte qnix which uses PLS?
I heard the only disadvantage with S-IPS is the IPS glow from the bottoms which make the PLS have deeper blacks. Other than that, the S-IPS is better in every way according to http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15226-motv-m2700-review-2560x1440-glossy-s-ips-120hz-overclock.html


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> Anyone know what is going on here:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221614922041
> 
> Is the same exact thing as the matte Qnix2710?
> 
> I asked the seller if its DVI-D only and he said yes.
> 
> So is this PLS or AH-VA? Is this overclockable? Thanks for any help!
> 
> I asked him about it and he replied:
> "Thanks for your interest in this item. Since the "Perfect Pixel" policy is not applicable for this monitor, up to 4 dead pixels is not a valid reason for return. For any other issue such as no picture, blinking, distortion etc. we will gladly provide the cost for repair (if repair service is available locally), grant a partial refund (for minor defects) or accept returns within 14 days from delivery and issue a full refund. Please also check the voltage and plug shape before you place an order. and it has only dual DVI port. not HDMI one. Thank you."
> 
> and
> 
> "we always ship brand new item as soon as we secure stock from authorized supplier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but it can be damaged in the process of shipping becuase monitor is fragile. please consider it before placing an order. we always try to do our best to supply the best quality of item and resolve any issue cuased to buyer. Thank you."
> 
> Not sure if I should take the gamble with this..
> 
> Is this a better choice? http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/X-Star-DP2710-Monitor-p/xst1.htm
> US Return shipping and warranty on any problems it seems. Only thing is it lists the DP2710 as having a response time of 8 vs the qnix 2710 having one of 6 on that site. Not sure if these listings are accurate or not?
> 
> Also should I go with the glossy MOTV which uses S-IPS, or the matte qnix which uses PLS?
> I heard the only disadvantage with S-IPS is the IPS glow from the bottoms which make the PLS have deeper blacks. Other than that, the S-IPS is better in every way according to http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15226-motv-m2700-review-2560x1440-glossy-s-ips-120hz-overclock.html


Not sure on the model but the QX2710 does have an exact match in the X-Star line up, or at least used to. I'm sure someone else can point that one out for you. All Korean monitors are a gamble. You're going to have a hard time returning one, if they'll even take it you'll be paying for shipping most likely. The only way to ensure you get a perfect panel is to buy used. I can tell you my panel does have IPS glow on the bottom. IPS glow isn't so much of an issue as backlight bleed.


----------



## Clockstep

Ended up going with the pixel perfect matte for 380 from accesorieswhole on ebay. Hope it turns out well.


----------



## N3RORE

@MenacingTuba
@TomcatV

Help me please:



This screen is a possible case of PWM free(rules say Single + blurry = PWM Free)?

Many thanks in advance.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> Anyone know what is going on here:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221614922041


The bezel and base is just covered with plastic cling wrap to protect it during shipping. That is how my Qnix looked when I first took it out of the box. Funny picture to use as main photo though.


----------



## LandonAaron

Where can I find more information on the MOTV M2700? It is the same panel and bypass board as the Yamasaki Catleap 2B?


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> Ended up going with the pixel perfect matte for 380 from accesorieswhole on ebay. Hope it turns out well.


I bought a matte screen and quite like it. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck!


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> This screen is a possible case of PWM free(rules say Single + blurry = PWM Free)?


It's a visual only test (read the instructions); a picture won't prove anything. However, you are correct about a PWM free monitor showing a blurry line while a monitor which uses PWM will show multiple vertical lines.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Where can I find more information on the MOTV M2700? It is the same panel and bypass board as the Yamasaki Catleap 2B?


It uses the same panel, but it is not available anymore according to someone who tried to buy one directly from green-sums site recently. I'm not allowed to link to my MOTV information page or review, but I'm sure others can









The Crossover 2795 allegedly uses a native 75hz panel which might be able to overclock and is LED PWM Dimming or flicker free unlike the majority of Qnix/X-Star panels. All three of the eBay sellers I asked claimed it is matte. PWM Side Effects.


----------



## Clockstep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Where can I find more information on the MOTV M2700? It is the same panel and bypass board as the Yamasaki Catleap 2B?


http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15226-motv-m2700-review-2560x1440-glossy-s-ips-120hz-overclock.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It's a visual only test (read the instructions), so a picture won't prove anything. However, you are correct about a PWM free monitor showing a blurry line while a monitor which uses PWM will show multiple vertical lines.
> It uses the same panel, but it is not available anymore according to someone who tried to buy one directly from green-sums site recently. I'm not allowed to link to my MOTV information page or review, but I'm sure others can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Crossover 2795 allegedly uses a native 75hz panel which might be able to overclock and is LED PWM Dimming or flicker free unlike the majority of Qnix/X-Star panels. All three of the eBay sellers I asked claimed it is matte. PWM Side Effects.


Green-sum's site shows it in stock for 370 for the pixel perfect. Is this just outdated?

Also overall, how much more noticeable is motion blur on the matee Qnix than the glossy MOTV? I read your guide and you say you like the Qnix for dark scenes better, but how are the qnix matte colors in comparison with the glossy MOTV? Thanks for your input.


----------



## Simpup

Seriously thinking about getting one of these monitors but the reviews and different sites are so conflicting. How are these monitors for gaming? Mostly play mmo's. I'm wanting a decent monitor that's not too expensive.

And there's so many different ones lol which one is the right one if I do go for it?


----------



## winterkid09

I thought I may offer a neat trick I found out. Some of you probably use glasses or contacts, and pinpoint lights probably smear in your vision from time to time. Just like that little blue led by the power button of the monitor. I went to cover it up with electrical tape when I opened it to re situate the monitor to make the bottom row of pixels visible. It's a lot nicer looking than putting the electrical tape on the outside and won't fall off. Also when I walk in my house in the dark, I can still see the faint red hue when it's in standby mode so I know not to press the power button again assuming it was on and the computer was off. This sure beats having that blue shimmer in the corner of my vision as the lighting in my house is pretty terrible. I hate most lights in my peripheral. Try it if you want, every little thing you do to help with clarity improves your experience ^^


----------



## ZenMeister

20150303_181031_resized.jpg 1096k .jpg file


20150303_181058_resized.jpg 663k .jpg file


20150303_181139_resized.jpg 735k .jpg file
I ordered a QNIX 2710 with eBay's green sum last week. No dead pixels found but when I did a LCD pixel test today I see a white line on the bottom all the way across between bottom mold and screen. What is this white line and should I be concerned? During gaming and regular day to day computing activities it is not visible.


----------



## Clockstep

The panel on my Qnix is slightly tilted in the frame and the part of the bezel where it says "Qnix" is quite loose from the panel, so I see some darkness from where the pixels stop on the panel. Anyone have any idea how to fix this?

Also using color sustainer, I cannot detect my 96hz mode that I am currently running. I created a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel and it shows up in windows resolution settings, but in color sustainer it will not show up. Only the 60hz and 59hz can be detected. Can anyone help? Thanks.


----------



## bmancreations

Looking to switch from Windows to Linux (ElementaryOS) and wondering if I will be able to overclock these monitors the same?

Currently, all I do is go into the Nvidia settings and create a custom resolution and refresh rate. Will that be possible with the latest nvidia drivers on linux?


----------



## Clockstep

Also, just noticed this weird white smudge on my screen. Only really visible while A) on a white/grey background, and B) when looking close up or from an angle




Anyone know what this is? Can I fix it by opening up the panel and doing something? Thanks for any help anyone can provide!


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> Also, just noticed this weird white smudge on my screen. Only really visible while A) on a white/grey background, and B) when looking close up or from an angle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what this is? Can I fix it by opening up the panel and doing something? Thanks for any help anyone can provide!


I have a couple of splotches on my screen that look exactly like that. I don't think anything can be done.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I have a couple of splotches on my screen that look exactly like that. I don't think anything can be done.


i have this too, but its more like a little cloud and it pisses me off more than my stuck pixel tbh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> Also, just noticed this weird white smudge on my screen. Only really visible while A) on a white/grey background, and B) when looking close up or from an angle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what this is? Can I fix it by opening up the panel and doing something? Thanks for any help anyone can provide!


if ou find out let us know.


----------



## Clockstep

Damn..I hate knowing the smudge is there even if I have to look for it to be bothered by it.

I might open the panel and separate the defuser and see if I can clean it but honestly I'm too afraid of breaking it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> The panel on my Qnix is slightly tilted in the frame and the part of the bezel where it says "Qnix" is quite loose from the panel, so I see some darkness from where the pixels stop on the panel. Anyone have any idea how to fix this?
> 
> Also using color sustainer, I cannot detect my 96hz mode that I am currently running. I created a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel and it shows up in windows resolution settings, but in color sustainer it will not show up. Only the 60hz and 59hz can be detected. Can anyone help? Thanks.


Color Sustainer currently works properly for certain with CRU. I remember someone couldn't get their refresh rates detected when using NvCP and they had to patch the driver I think. I don't have an Nvidia system to test on but what I know is that Nvidia SLi + NvCP does not work with Color Sustainer.

Best way is to test your overclock using NvCP then set those same timings in CRU so that you can use Color Sustainer with your refresh rates.

When I am able to test on Nvidia, and if the issue is easy to solve, I will solve that issue for the next version since it's the most critical for now.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Color Sustainer currently works properly for certain with CRU. I remember someone couldn't get their refresh rates detected when using NvCP and they had to patch the driver I think. I don't have an Nvidia system to test on but what I know is that Nvidia SLi + NvCP does not work with Color Sustainer.
> 
> Best way is to test your overclock using NvCP then set those same timings in CRU so that you can use Color Sustainer with your refresh rates.
> 
> When I am able to test on Nvidia, and if the issue is easy to solve, I will solve that issue for the next version since it's the most critical for now.


When I use Color Sustainer to apply ICC profiles, my games lag and hitch. Also the Blur Busters Motion Tests give an "invalid sync" result. I have tried various ICC profiles, and always get the same result. I can apply the ICC color profiles through Windows color management though without problems. I am on AMD and use CRU to create my detailed resolution profiles.


----------



## BCShak

Not sure if this was already asked here, but I have an MSI 980, and it only has a DVI-I output.

The QNIX qx2710 Evolution ii requires a DVI-D connection. I'd like to overclock this monitor.

Is this monitor off the table with my GPU?

Thanks


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BCShak*
> 
> Not sure if this was already asked here, but I have an MSI 980, and it only has a DVI-I output.
> 
> The QNIX qx2710 Evolution ii requires a DVI-D connection. I'd like to overclock this monitor.
> 
> Is this monitor off the table with my GPU?
> 
> Thanks


I have a GTX 970 from MSI. I looked yours up and was confused to see that you in fact don't have one. I wonder why mine does but they dropped it for the 980. As far as I know, you need an active adapter of some sort but even then that might not do it. Wait for someone else to chime in.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BCShak*
> 
> Not sure if this was already asked here, but I have an MSI 980, and it only has a DVI-I output.
> 
> The QNIX qx2710 Evolution ii requires a DVI-D connection. I'd like to overclock this monitor.
> 
> Is this monitor off the table with my GPU?
> 
> Thanks


These monitor's require dual-dvi ports, they can be either dvi-i or dvi-d. The ports on 980s and 970s are dual dvi so the monitor will work for you.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> When I use Color Sustainer to apply ICC profiles, my games lag and hitch. Also the Blur Busters Motion Tests give an "invalid sync" result. I have tried various ICC profiles, and always get the same result. I can apply the ICC color profiles through Windows color management though without problems. I am on AMD and use CRU to create my detailed resolution profiles.


I had this once with GRID 2. Go to settings in Color Sustainer and raise your polling period to 10000ms.

I'm assuming you're using multiple monitors? If so, are you turning off the secondary monitors during games?

Never had the "invalid sync" result myself. My guess is that while running Color Sustainer for the first time, you accidentally pushed the polling period too low.


----------



## Snowdeity

Hey all,

Got a glossy qx2710 last week with minor backlight bleed, started seeing green artifacts once at 107 Hz (using NVCP, after installing qnix driver). Was switching between just using it at 96 and 106 Hz. Earlier today, when was running 106 (has been looking fine up until now), got bar along the right side of screen that's discolored. Any idea on what deal is with this? Comes about above 100-102 Hz roughly. Apologies if this is addressed elsewhere.


----------



## OkanG

Reduce refresh rate, it means it's getting unstable


----------



## kapnobatai

Hello again.

Anyone can recommend a DVI-D switch? I mneed a dual or triple monitor setup, all 3 Xstar DP2710, but on 2 systems, one for video editing (dual or triple), one for general and gaming (single) so I would need a good reliable DVI-D switch to share one of the monitors between systems. Any idea?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I had this once with GRID 2. Go to settings in Color Sustainer and raise your polling period to 10000ms.
> 
> I'm assuming you're using multiple monitors? If so, are you turning off the secondary monitors during games?
> 
> Never had the "invalid sync" result myself. My guess is that while running Color Sustainer for the first time, you accidentally pushed the polling period too low.


Are you psychic? I have two monitors, and my polling period was set to 1000. I raised it to 10,000 as you suggested and it fixed the problem. 1 Rep for you


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Are you psychic? I have two monitors, and my polling period was set to 1000. I raised it to 10,000 as you suggested and it fixed the problem. 1 Rep for you


Not psychic, just the developer









1000ms is the default polling period and it seems that for some configurations, it is causing some issues as you may have witnessed.

Glad it worked out for you, though. I'm in the process of updating Color Sustainer and I'm changing the way the displays are polled. Hopefully we would be able to go very, very low for the polling period without any negative effects.


----------



## thrgk

has anyone upgraded to a monprice 4k monitor from qnix? wondering if its worth it or not


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> has anyone upgraded to a monprice 4k monitor from qnix? wondering if its worth it or not


I had both monitors. First of all your comparing TN vs PLS. So of course the color reproduction is going to be better on the Qnix. That being said the Monoprice has the best color reproduction of any TN panel I have seen to date. It sports a near 10-bit color gamut and has a glossy screen, for that extreme 4k clarity. So many 4K panels I have seen has those moderate to thick matte finish that just kills clarity, making them look almost like a lower resolution monitor.

As which one is better depends on your preference. When comparing both at 60hz the Mono feels to have (opinion) lower total input lag with its 1ms GTG and quick processing. OCing the Qnix is when it starts to beat the Mono in responsiveness. Also the motion blur on the Mono is one of the best at 60hz compared to other 4k monitors I have seen. Mono is of course much sharper due to it being twice the resolution. But is it twice as sharper? Not for me. Depends how close you sit to your monitor. But for me the visual jump from 1080 to 1440 was greater that the jump to 1440-4k. This is at 27/28 inches. But still 4k is definitely clearer & sharper.

So if not gaming the 4k Mono is hard to beat, especially at the price. For gaming, it's close, depends on what's more important to you responsive vs graphical textures/clarity. On the other hand if primary for gaming a Gsync monitor blows them both away.


----------



## thrgk

Guess I'll keep the qnix for now as its at 110hz and is really stable. Thinking waiting for freesync would be best for me


----------



## OkanG

110Hz is not bad, I keep mine at 96Hz since it gets unstable at 105Hz


----------



## thrgk

If I buy the Samsung ud590 will that be upgradable to freesync ?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> Hello again.
> 
> Anyone can recommend a DVI-D switch? I mneed a dual or triple monitor setup, all 3 Xstar DP2710, but on 2 systems, one for video editing (dual or triple), one for general and gaming (single) so I would need a good reliable DVI-D switch to share one of the monitors between systems. Any idea?


I use an ATEN DVI Dual Link switch, model CS1784A. If you're only using two computers, they make the CS1782A.


----------



## Muscles

I've searched around but still haven't gotten a clear solution to thick, white horizontal lines across my whole Qnix screen. Can anyone help? I have already added padding to the inside (where there were 5 missing pads pushing the monitor to the bezel) as well as electrical tape lining the bezel. Didn't help one bit.


----------



## kapnobatai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I use an ATEN DVI Dual Link switch, model CS1784A. If you're only using two computers, they make the CS1782A.


Thanks for the reply, Roland. Are you using it above 60Hz @1440p? Because Aten support replied today to my email "I included the data sheet in attachment for you.
As you can see, 1440p Resolution @96Hz is not supported :"


----------



## sinnedone

Yeah Im waiting for the freesync monitors to weigh things out. Right now 2 R9 290's are enough to keep me at 120hz on ultra 1440p so no 4 k for me. At least until graphics cards pick up and one card can keep a constant 60 frames at 4k.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kapnobatai*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, Roland. Are you using it above 60Hz @1440p? Because Aten support replied today to my email "I included the data sheet in attachment for you.
> As you can see, 1440p Resolution @96Hz is not supported :"


I'm running one of my QNIX through it right now at 96Hz, I've had it up to 110Hz with no problems. I get a little bit of green lines sometimes at 120Hz, don't know if its the switch, or the monitor, it used to go to 120Hz with no problem. I usually run my 3 at 96Hz, since one has always been limited to 110Hz, so haven't bothered to do any troubleshooting.


----------



## PhoShzzle

Just got my Qnix. Set it up and immediately tried out overclocking. Overclocking to 75+ Hz creates this weird yellow half effect. I also realized that the left half of the screen has a yellow tint even @60 Hz. What are the probable causes for this type of problem?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhoShzzle*
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my Qnix. Set it up and immediately tried out overclocking. Overclocking to 75+ Hz creates this weird yellow half effect. I also realized that the left half of the screen has a yellow tint even @60 Hz. What are the probable causes for this type of problem?


I would probably ask the seller for a return label.


----------



## ivoryg37

Do I have to force games to use my resolution? On my desktop when I run UFOtest, it shows 110hz refresh rate but when I go to play CS GO. I turn on vsync and it locks it at 60hz. How do I go about making sure the refresh rate is working in games correctly?


----------



## teenpercent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muscles*
> 
> Is this the OG version, non True10? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7c39ae25


It's DVI only version. it's not true10.

By the way the price is awesome....


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Do I have to force games to use my resolution? On my desktop when I run UFOtest, it shows 110hz refresh rate but when I go to play CS GO. I turn on vsync and it locks it at 60hz. How do I go about making sure the refresh rate is working in games correctly?


In the games video settings adjust it from "2560x1440 60hz" to "2560x1440 110hz"


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuildTestRepeat*
> 
> In the games video settings adjust it from "2560x1440 60hz" to "2560x1440 110hz"


CS:GO doesn't have that setting. Only a resolution setting. No refresh settings


----------



## popinjay

Hi all.... I have a couple questions that I haven't been able to find out abouut the Qnix monitors.

I am looking to buy two of them to replace my 1080 22inch ViewSonics. One of them will be used to play games and the other general viewing. I do NOT plan to overclock the monitors so getting abotu 60Hz is not a huge deal to me. My GTX 970 wont be able to support higher than 60 for most new games at 1440p. That said, does it matter if I get the single input DVI-D model? It says there is some input lag in the multiple input models, but is that even without overclocking? I guess what I am asking is at 60fps, would there be a difference between single DVI model and the other HDMI or DP models?

If no, I should be able to get 2 HDMI or DP models and hook those both up to my GTX970. If there is inherent input lag in all the multi-input models no matter what, then would this setup work: get one single input DVI-D and one other HDMI model. The DVI-D model will be used for gaming and the other will be used as the secondary model. Either that or get two DVI only input models and hook one up with a DVI-HDMI or DVI-DP connectors, which I've been reading isn't the best.

Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popinjay*
> 
> Hi all.... I have a couple questions that I haven't been able to find out abouut the Qnix monitors.
> 
> I am looking to buy two of them to replace my 1080 22inch ViewSonics. One of them will be used to play games and the other general viewing. I do NOT plan to overclock the monitors so getting abotu 60Hz is not a huge deal to me. My GTX 970 wont be able to support higher than 60 for most new games at 1440p. That said, does it matter if I get the single input DVI-D model? It says there is some input lag in the multiple input models, but is that even without overclocking? I guess what I am asking is at 60fps, would there be a difference between single DVI model and the other HDMI or DP models?
> 
> If no, I should be able to get 2 HDMI or DP models and hook those both up to my GTX970. If there is inherent input lag in all the multi-input models no matter what, then would this setup work: get one single input DVI-D and one other HDMI model. The DVI-D model will be used for gaming and the other will be used as the secondary model. Either that or get two DVI only input models and hook one up with a DVI-HDMI or DVI-DP connectors, which I've been reading isn't the best.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated!


I have an MSI gtx970 and it runs many games maxed at 1440p. Right now I'm playing a lot of Payday 2, getting 110 hz steady with v-sync on. Your 970 will do very well on triple A games too. I would overclock just for the smoothness on the OS personally if nothing else. Also, you can overclock your card if you haven't already for more performance. (Mine is running at 1525/1925) You need a single input for overclocking, and a better response time. Your suggestion seems okay - for one gaming and one not.


----------



## Clockstep

Similar to popinjay's question: How do I run a dual monitor Qnix setup? I need to be able to run both monitors at 100hz at 2560x1440, yet I know of no good GPUs that have 2x DVI-D outputs. I heard that using any kind of adapter(active or not) will degrade the signal, and that a DVI-D splitter would degrade the signal to and not allow 100 fps at 100hz on both monitors at the same time. Thanks for any help/info on the matter.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> Similar to popinjay's question: How do I run a dual monitor Qnix setup? I need to be able to run both monitors at 100hz at 2560x1440, yet I know of no good GPUs that have 2x DVI-D outputs. I heard that using any kind of adapter(active or not) will degrade the signal, and that a DVI-D splitter would degrade the signal to and not allow 100 fps at 100hz on both monitors at the same time. Thanks for any help/info on the matter.


Depends on your hardware. I'm running three on two 780Tis. I keep mine at 96Hz, without issues. The 780Ti has two DL-DVI outputs, so connecting two to one card works fine.

As far as adaptors degrading the signal, I agree. Your overclock is going to be limited going through an adaptor. I think around 85Hz was the max I got on mine when I tested this out.


----------



## LandonAaron

The r9 290x has two dual link dvi outputs as well. From my experience overclocking to 96hz provides a smoother experience than 60hz even when your only pushing 60 fps or lower. Also if your running under 96 fps you can disable vsync with very little tearing.


----------



## thrgk

How much will the Samsung 4k freesync cost? 28 or 31.5 inch models.


----------



## PCM2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> How much will the Samsung 4k freesync cost? 28 or 31.5 inch models.


Pricing hasn't been announced. And in fact manufacturer product pages aren't even up for said models yet, so you'll have to wait.


----------



## thrgk

Yea they said March so hopefully soon


----------



## thrgk

Do you think 4k is worth it ? Thought a lot of problems in desktop environment ? I'm worried the 4k will be 1500 or so might be best to go 1440 freesync and be super smooth


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Is this only for QNIX/X-STAR?

Just ordered my TOPSYNC 2710 from green-sum. Couldnt pass up $179 for the "refurb"


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

I'm currently in the process of staining my desk im going to use, I have 2 23" asus vh236h's and 1 qnix 2710. Is there a triple monitor mount that someone could recommend for me?


----------



## Clockstep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Depends on your hardware. I'm running three on two 780Tis. I keep mine at 96Hz, without issues. The 780Ti has two DL-DVI outputs, so connecting two to one card works fine.
> 
> As far as adaptors degrading the signal, I agree. Your overclock is going to be limited going through an adaptor. I think around 85Hz was the max I got on mine when I tested this out.


Wait what, this makes no sense to me. You have 3 DVI-D only monitors running on 2 cards that only have 1 DVI-D each? Also you say connecting two to one card works fine for 96hz then you go on to say it doesn't. Am I missing something?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> Wait what, this makes no sense to me. You have 3 DVI-D only monitors running on 2 cards that only have 1 DVI-D each? Also you say connecting two to one card works fine for 96hz then you go on to say it doesn't. Am I missing something?


These monitors need Dual Link DVI. It doesn't matter if it's DVI-D or DVI-I as long as it's dual link. So two 780Ti GPUs can run 4 DL-DVI monitors without adapters.

He doesn't use an adapter so 96Hz is what he uses.

When he tested an adapter he couldn't go higher than 85Hz.


----------



## Clockstep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> These monitors need Dual Link DVI. It doesn't matter if it's DVI-D or DVI-I as long as it's dual link. So two 780Ti GPUs can run 4 DL-DVI monitors without adapters.
> 
> He doesn't use an adapter so 96Hz is what he uses.
> 
> When he tested an adapter he couldn't go higher than 85Hz.


I thought these monitors required DVI-D dual link specifically?
If not, then I can run two no problem on a 970/980 provided that they have a DVI-D dual link and a DVI-I dual link port?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> I thought these monitors required DVI-D dual link specifically?
> If not, then I can run two no problem on a 970/980 provided that they have a DVI-D dual link and a DVI-I dual link port?


Yes. You can as long as the ports are dual link.


----------



## Clockstep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yes. You can as long as the ports are dual link.


Thanks a lot for this info, you made my dual Qnix setup a lot less complex haha. Will a single GTX 970 drive two of these things very well at 96fps? Also do you think getting a GTX 970 would help with my monitor's refresh rate, or should I play with the timings? My GTX 680 cannot push my Qnix past 96hz without getting some purple discoloring at 100hz, weird black vertical lines at 110hz, and then at 120hz green scan lines.

I am currently driving my Qnix with a GTX 680 and I get about 70 fps in BF4 at 1440p ultra, and no/some AA.
I want to buy another Qnix and power both with a GTX 970, but not if BF4 won't perform at at least a little higher than 70fps on average. Thanks for the insight.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Do you think 4k is worth it ? Thought a lot of problems in desktop environment ? I'm worried the 4k will be 1500 or so might be best to go 1440 freesync and be super smooth


As much as AMD is dragging their feet with Fsync, it probably wont be until 2016 till we see a good 4K IPS Fsync.


----------



## thrgk

The Samsung 4k freesync won't be good ?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> The Samsung 4k freesync won't be good ?


Wrong thread, but you should forget about the 4K Samsung TN since it has very high input lag, worse colours, a bad stand and more ghosting than the similarly priced 4K Monoprice monitor and Asus PB287Q.

http://www.digitalversus.com/lcd-monitor/asus-pb287q-p18556/test.html
http://www.digitalversus.com/lcd-monitor/samsung-u28d590d-p20242/test.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/monoprice-4k-monitor,4055.html


----------



## gr4474

What kind of screen is on this monitor? I can't stand the stand...what is a good/affordable replacement? Thanks!


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gr4474*
> 
> What kind of screen is on this monitor? I can't stand the stand...what is a good/affordable replacement? Thanks!


Check out the 1st page of the thread, it has some replacement recommendations on there.


----------



## exelon

Hi, is there anyway to reset the contrast on a Qnix monitor, since there is no on-screen display?


----------



## gr4474

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Check out the 1st page of the thread, it has some replacement recommendations on there.


Ok found it. What is a wide viewing angle panel? I want an IPS type, since I'm not happy with my TN. It is great sometimes, and completely washed out other times. Maybe some things aren't recognizing my ICC profile. Anyway thinking of returning it.

I read about korean monitors a ton 2 years ago, and I can't believe they're still using that stand. It reminds me of a bobble head.


----------



## Clockstep

Hey guys I'm having a strange problem with one of my Qnix 2710 DVI only monitors. The problem is that when it is plugged in it is always powered on for some reason. When I hit the power button the LED light goes from red to blue and the display comes on, but when I hit it again the display turns off but the LED stays red instead of turning off. Also, the screen always flashes white when I plug in the power cable, any ideas what is happening here? Thanks guys


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clockstep*
> 
> Hey guys I'm having a strange problem with one of my Qnix 2710 DVI only monitors. The problem is that when it is plugged in it is always powered on for some reason. When I hit the power button the LED light goes from red to blue and the display comes on, but when I hit it again the display turns off but the LED stays red instead of turning off. Also, the screen always flashes white when I plug in the power cable, any ideas what is happening here? Thanks guys


This looks normal to me. All three of mine do the same thing. As long as it's plugged in, the LED will be on or flashing.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exelon*
> 
> Hi, is there anyway to reset the contrast on a Qnix monitor, since there is no on-screen display?


I haven't seen anything on the resetting the contrast.


----------



## thrgk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Wrong thread, but you should forget about the 4K Samsung TN since it has very high input lag, worse colours, a bad stand and more ghosting than the similarly priced 4K Monoprice monitor and Asus PB287Q.
> 
> http://www.digitalversus.com/lcd-monitor/asus-pb287q-p18556/test.html
> http://www.digitalversus.com/lcd-monitor/samsung-u28d590d-p20242/test.html
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/monoprice-4k-monitor,4055.html


Ah I see. Do you think ilyama 4k would be best then? As it is 4k and will get the freesync upgrade soon? Or is that screen also not great? I also could just get the benq or acer (releases the 27th) which are both 1440p (same as my current qnix) but they are 144hz freesync.
not sure if it'd be much of an improvement going from 1440 ti 1440 only difference I'd have freesync on the newer 1440


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exelon*
> 
> Hi, is there anyway to reset the contrast on a Qnix monitor, since there is no on-screen display?


There shouldn't have been a way for you to even change contrast levels, unless it was done via Windows or ICC profiles. If you are talking about the brightness settings, the two left-most buttons have a 30-click incrementing from dim to max brightness.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gr4474*
> 
> Ok found it. What is a wide viewing angle panel? I want an IPS type, since I'm not happy with my TN. It is great sometimes, and completely washed out other times. Maybe some things aren't recognizing my ICC profile. Anyway thinking of returning it.
> 
> I read about korean monitors a ton 2 years ago, and I can't believe they're still using that stand. It reminds me of a bobble head.


It uses a Grade A- PLS panel. It's originally on higher-end Samsung monitors and PLS is Samsung's version of IPS (LG makes these).

Compared to my lower-end IPS HP ZR2240w, colors are a bit more saturated/vibrant, but the image is also sharper due to the higher resolution and thin matte film (considered semi-glossy). It may also depend on the ICC profile you use and also how much you overclock the monitor.

The older Qnix/X-Stars would get a darker gamma when overclocking past 100Hz (very dark at 120Hz). But I found out that sometime in the last year, the panel has been changed such that it is harder to overclock past 96~105Hz, but you also get no gamma shifting.

*Here* is a link to my old post regarding the difference between using a panel from 2013 and one from 2014. I did end up using the 2013 panel since I was used to the darker gamma and 120Hz.


----------



## gr4474

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin*
> 
> There shouldn't have been a way for you to even change contrast levels, unless it was done via Windows or ICC profiles. If you are talking about the brightness settings, the two left-most buttons have a 30-click incrementing from dim to max brightness.
> It uses a Grade A- PLS panel. It's originally on higher-end Samsung monitors and PLS is Samsung's version of IPS (LG makes these).
> 
> Compared to my lower-end IPS HP ZR2240w, colors are a bit more saturated/vibrant, but the image is also sharper due to the higher resolution and thin matte film (considered semi-glossy). It may also depend on the ICC profile you use and also how much you overclock the monitor.
> 
> The older Qnix/X-Stars would get a darker gamma when overclocking past 100Hz (very dark at 120Hz). But I found out that sometime in the last year, the panel has been changed such that it is harder to overclock past 96~105Hz, but you also get no gamma shifting.
> 
> *Here* is a link to my old post regarding the difference between using a panel from 2013 and one from 2014. I did end up using the 2013 panel since I was used to the darker gamma and 120Hz.


Thanks for the breakdown. This should be on the OP.


----------



## exelon

Thx! Kokin! You where right I was talking about the brightness not the contrast.... But thanks for the breakdown, I bought my Qnix a month ago and it sits at 110hz 24/7. I am using color susstainer to brighten it a bit.


----------



## piee

have new D07 qnix panel it OC to 114 outabox and 119 with pxlclk 459 no dimming great panel so far, brick gets a little hot, no PWM flicker at max brit, compensate by lowering britness in NVCP, have 980ref also new dvi-d cable.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuildTestRepeat*
> 
> Is this only for QNIX/X-STAR?
> 
> Just ordered my TOPSYNC 2710 from green-sum. Couldnt pass up $179 for the "refurb"


"bumping" my post as it got covered by real issues lol


----------



## loopa

fixed


----------



## Clockstep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> This looks normal to me. All three of mine do the same thing. As long as it's plugged in, the LED will be on or flashing.


Thanks for letting me know. The strange thing is I have one that shows no LED light while it is plugged in, it will show blue when on, blinking blue when trying to read the signal, and red when no signal is given, but it will show no LED light when I hit the power button again.


----------



## dyrdevil

Hello Everybody,

I just received my second Qnix from Korea. I have an Evga GTX 780 SC and can't get both Qnix's to work at the same time.

I'm able to use one of the Qnix's with the DVI-D connection on my GPU simultaneously with my Asus monitor through the HDMI connection on the GPU.
I'm also able to use either Qnix ALONE with the DVI-I connection on my GPU using a DVI-D cable.

HOWEVER... when I try to use the DVI-I connection with either the DVI-D or HDMI connection for a dual-monitor setup the DVI-I port stops being recognized.

In the nvidia control panel the DVI-I connection simply becomes "Digital Display" and I'm unable to check the box to use it.

Does anybody know what's going on? I just downloaded and clean installed the latest nvidia drivers and it didn't help.

EDIT: I solved my problem... turns out I just needed to reset my CRU and install the Qnix driver for each monitor... *facepalm*


----------



## popinjay

So I bought a QNIX single input DVI from accessorieswhole. Tracking says it is out for delivery and I ordered it under 48 hours. Korea to a US town in under 48 hours is amazing to me. I am moving this weekend and shipping it to my new residence so I cant wait to get there and test it out. One question I have since I will probably buy another one is can two of these connect to EVGA GTX 970 superclocked? It has two dual lilnk DVI slots but one is DVI-D adn one is DVI-I. Are both able to make the connection granted they are both dual link?


----------



## popinjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyrdevil*
> 
> EDIT: I solved my problem... turns out I just needed to reset my CRU and install the Qnix driver for each monitor... *facepalm*
> 
> Hello Everybody,
> 
> I just received my second Qnix from Korea. I have an Evga GTX 780 SC and can't get both Qnix's to work at the same time.
> 
> I'm able to use one of the Qnix's with the DVI-D connection on my GPU simultaneously with my Asus monitor through the HDMI connection on the GPU.
> I'm also able to use either Qnix ALONE with the DVI-I connection on my GPU using a DVI-D cable.
> 
> HOWEVER... when I try to use the DVI-I connection with either the DVI-D or HDMI connection for a dual-monitor setup the DVI-I port stops being recognized.
> 
> In the nvidia control panel the DVI-I connection simply becomes "Digital Display" and I'm unable to check the box to use it.
> 
> Does anybody know what's going on? I just downloaded and clean installed the latest nvidia drivers and it didn't help.


Hmm interesting. I don't have the monitors but I have a EVGA 970 SC and was hoping to eventually connect two of these monitors. I'll be watching, let us know if you get it to work!


----------



## dyrdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popinjay*
> 
> So I bought a QNIX single input DVI from accessorieswhole. Tracking says it is out for delivery and I ordered it under 48 hours. Korea to a US town in under 48 hours is amazing to me. I am moving this weekend and shipping it to my new residence so I cant wait to get there and test it out. One question I have since I will probably buy another one is can two of these connect to EVGA GTX 970 superclocked? It has two dual lilnk DVI slots but one is DVI-D adn one is DVI-I. Are both able to make the connection granted they are both dual link?


Yes, you can connect both monitors to one GPU using both the DVI-I and DVI-D dual link outputs.

I had read that this was possible, but couldn't get it to work - as you saw in my previous post. With both plugged in, one would be seemingly recognized as a "digital display" by windows but was inaccessible through any program I tried (nvidia, displayfusion, windows settings) and remained in standby mode. I knew it wasn't a problem with the ports, the cables, or the monitors, as I could get each to work alone in the various combinations. So it must have been a problem on the windows side.

All I had to do to get windows to properly recognize both monitors from both DVI ports simultaneously was update the Qnix drivers as the instructions on the front page of this thread state.
I also reset my Custom Resolution Utility with both monitors plugged in (as per the instructions) but I'm pretty sure it had to do with the drivers.

In short - download the qnix driver, go to device manager, right click each "generic pnp monitor", update driver, navigate through the various options until "have disk", select driver. Also need to follow the instructions to disable the need for windows to have signed drivers for this to work if you're on a later version of windows.

Anyway, works like a charm now! Plug and play, nvidia surround, no worries. Monitors are both now recognized in device manager as "Qnix".
Good luck!


----------



## N3RORE

Hello guys,
I sold my previous Qnix QX2710 Evolution II Glossy (LTM270DL07) due of the fact that I've found a good used 4K monitor, but at the last moment when I checked the 4K in my home I've found 3 dead pixel, then the monitor is got back to the previous owner..
I've buyed an used Qnix QX2710 Evolution II Matte (LTM270DL02) from ebay, no dead pixel and no BLB.
This is the difference:
LTM270DL07

LTM270DL02


Same camera(Samsung S2 default settings, of course bad accuracy), same OC (96 Hz), same ICC, same wallpaper (Kyrat 4K resolution).
Older panels have more color saturation than newer!


----------



## Swolern

Anyone running these panels OCd on an AMD GPU. Any issues?

Ya N3RORE, it has been know for a while Qnix/Xstar have changed their internal panels and their newer monitors are not nearly as good with color reproduction.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyrdevil*
> 
> Yes, you can connect both monitors to one GPU using both the DVI-I and DVI-D dual link outputs.
> 
> I had read that this was possible, but couldn't get it to work - as you saw in my previous post. With both plugged in, one would be seemingly recognized as a "digital display" by windows but was inaccessible through any program I tried (nvidia, displayfusion, windows settings) and remained in standby mode. I knew it wasn't a problem with the ports, the cables, or the monitors, as I could get each to work alone in the various combinations. So it must have been a problem on the windows side.
> 
> All I had to do to get windows to properly recognize both monitors from both DVI ports simultaneously was update the Qnix drivers as the instructions on the front page of this thread state.
> I also reset my Custom Resolution Utility with both monitors plugged in (as per the instructions) but I'm pretty sure it had to do with the drivers.
> 
> In short - download the qnix driver, go to device manager, right click each "generic pnp monitor", update driver, navigate through the various options until "have disk", select driver. Also need to follow the instructions to disable the need for windows to have signed drivers for this to work if you're on a later version of windows.
> 
> Anyway, works like a charm now! Plug and play, nvidia surround, no worries. Monitors are both now recognized in device manager as "Qnix".
> Good luck!


I think it's probably the other way around (the issue being CRU, not the "driver"). I don't use either one, and have had no issues running two monitors on one GPU, or three monitors on two gpu's for that matter.


----------



## Algeron

/sigh

I have a glossy Qnix Qx2710Led:

While trying to swat a fly the swatter got tangled with a usb cable I had on the computer desk and flung it causing the edge to create what can best be described as a small white crater on the screen.

Any options?


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Algeron*
> 
> /sigh
> 
> I have a glossy Qnix Qx2710Led:
> 
> While trying to swat a fly the swatter got tangled with a usb cable I had on the computer desk and flung it causing the edge to create what can best be described as a small white crater on the screen.
> 
> Any options?


If it is a physical damage, I think nothing..
Attach a photo.


----------



## t43m4n

the buttons of my monitor does not work anymore. Only the power buttons is left functioning. Is there a way to control brightness in windows rather than the OSD?


----------



## Nadasdy

Made an account so may as well post. Just got a new desk setup (ikea) and set everything back up. I have had my Qnix monitor for a while now and the OSD has never worked. Installed my monitor vesa arm and it started sagging and there seemed to be too much weight for my desk to support for some reason (had planned on buying a triple monitor stand late). It started to indent my desk a bit where the arm screwed on so I put a desktop bay filler under my monitor to help support it til I get my desk stand.

Monitor goes almost completely black and started flickering. Did everything I could think of to try to fix this, uncluding trying the OSD buttons on the monitor and nothing happened. Went over my ICC profiles and checked my OC settings and noticed that somehow I no longer had any profiles showing up in my management. Went through the process of repatching and OCing my monitor again, tinkered with it and still no luck on the brightness. Randomly hit my OSD buttons on my monitor for like the 10th time in a half hour and they decided to now work for the first time ever. Still no idea why everything seemed to reset. Fun morning.


----------



## 0verpowered

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Anyone running these panels OCd on an AMD GPU. Any issues?
> 
> Ya N3RORE, it has been know for a while Qnix/Xstar have changed their internal panels and their newer monitors are not nearly as good with color reproduction.


I am running one on an XFX 290 @ 1440p 110 hz. Pretty simple to do with the CRU tools.


----------



## popinjay

I am correct that this is this the generally suggested monitor?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797

matte, non SE, single input DVI

Seems like a really good price right now. Just bought one for 296, now even lower!


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popinjay*
> 
> I am correct that this is this the generally suggested monitor?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797
> 
> matte, non SE, single input DVI
> 
> Seems like a really good price right now. Just bought one for 296, now even lower!


Yes is this, but You are going to pay in pounds or euro?


----------



## FancyRabbitt

Does anyone know how to adjust how the screen appears for qnix monitors.
I cant remember the exact name of the setting, but I am running windows 10 and the task bar is cut off on the bottom on one of my qnix monitors vs the other.

Examples



On one of my monitors, I can see the purple lines at the bottom to show that the application is open.
On my other monitor, that part is cut off. Is there anyway I can fix this on a qnix panel? I know I have been able to adjust this setting on other monitors, but I am unsure how to do it on a qnix because there is no setting panel.


----------



## 21cage12

Have got one of these on the way from Korea


----------



## pLuhhmm

Anyone got this monitor working at 120Hz in CSGO? Works in dota and windows, but never wants to work in csgo.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FancyRabbitt*
> 
> Does anyone know how to adjust how the screen appears for qnix monitors.
> I cant remember the exact name of the setting, but I am running windows 10 and the task bar is cut off on the bottom on one of my qnix monitors vs the other.
> 
> Examples
> 
> 
> 
> On one of my monitors, I can see the purple lines at the bottom to show that the application is open.
> On my other monitor, that part is cut off. Is there anyway I can fix this on a qnix panel? I know I have been able to adjust this setting on other monitors, but I am unsure how to do it on a qnix because there is no setting panel.


Are you sure the panel isn't just offset below the bezel? There's no way to make an adjustment like that on the monitor itself, although you may be able to shift it through the video card control panel. I didn't think you could make that adjustment if you were using DVI though, but that may be wrong.


----------



## garikfox

Im excited ! and nervous at the same time, I just ordered my first QNIX QX2710 Glossy from green-sum on ebay, They are on sale for only 279 perfect pixel version. I thought that was a good deal so jumped on it









I hope it comes without any defects, I'll be sweating bullets until it comes.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Im excited ! and nervous at the same time, I just ordered my first QNIX QX2710 Glossy from green-sum on ebay, They are on sale for only 279 perfect pixel version. I thought that was a good deal so jumped on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it comes without any defects, I'll be sweating bullets until it comes.


My topsync comes tomorrow. I grabbed the refurb for $179. Couldnt beat it. My friend got a perfect panel on his achevia. Hoping for the same luck!


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuildTestRepeat*
> 
> My topsync comes tomorrow. I grabbed the refurb for $179. Couldnt beat it. My friend got a perfect panel on his achevia. Hoping for the same luck!


Yeah i saw you mentioning your refurb your getting, Im very curious on how yours turns out, I was gonna get that one actually until i saw the one i was getting was on sale yesterday couldnt pass that up.

Is this going to be your first Korean monitor ? It will be my first one.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Yeah i saw you mentioning your refurb your getting, Im very curious on how yours turns out, I was gonna get that one actually until i saw the one i was getting was on sale yesterday couldnt pass that up.
> 
> Is this going to be your first Korean monitor ? It will be my first one.


It is my first. After seeing my buddy get a perfect panel i had to take the chance. Even a few stuck/dead pixels wouldnt bother me. With 1440 the pixels are damn small.

Side question, i see there is no "club" for topsync monitors. Hadly anything on here about them. Any other owners around?


----------



## mrgamer81

so i want one of these. Sick and tired of asus swift. I want one perfect pixel. Can u guys pls link me to one that can oc and it's pixel perfect . Matte or glossy, dont care. Thanks







this one ok http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111088789065?_mwBanner=1


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgamer81*
> 
> so i want one of these. Sick and tired of asus swift. I want one perfect pixel. Can u guys pls link me to one that can oc and it's pixel perfect . Matte or glossy, dont care. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this one ok http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111088789065?_mwBanner=1


At the moment it is better to buy a matte, check here:
Matte

Glossy

the current matte has colors much more vivid and beautiful respect the new glossy, in plus the matte at the time seem to be easier to Oc'd, I had struggle to find the right custom timing for 110 Hz in my previous glossy, I find that is more easier Oc'd at 110 Hz my actual matte.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgamer81*
> 
> so i want one of these. Sick and tired of asus swift. I want one perfect pixel. Can u guys pls link me to one that can oc and it's pixel perfect . Matte or glossy, dont care. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this one ok http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111088789065?_mwBanner=1


There is no guarantee on OC. Its hit or miss, unless you wanna pay a ridiculous price.


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> At the moment it is better to buy a matte, check here:
> Matte
> 
> Glossy
> 
> the current matte has colors much more vivid and beautiful respect the new glossy, in plus the matte at the time seem to be easier to Oc'd, I had struggle to find the right custom timing for 110 Hz in my previous glossy, I find that is more easier Oc'd at 110 Hz my actual matte.


I'm pretty sure a correct ICC color profile would fix the color difference in those pictures.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> At the moment it is better to buy a matte, check here:
> Matte
> 
> Glossy
> 
> the current matte has colors much more vivid and beautiful respect the new glossy, in plus the matte at the time seem to be easier to Oc'd, I had struggle to find the right custom timing for 110 Hz in my previous glossy, I find that is more easier Oc'd at 110 Hz my actual matte.


This is not matte vs Glossy. These are 2 different panel types, new vs old Qnix panel. New
Korean panels have poorer contrast & color reproduction.

If the same panel & settings, a glossy is *always* going to have better colors vs matte. Just glossy have reflections some people dont like.


----------



## DezzBrah

Just picked up a refurbished QX2710 for $230 from an Amazon listing by MNW Global. Shipped about 48 hours after I placed my order and took just over a day to get here. I couldn't be happier with what I got, the panel housing looks new as far as I can tell and through all my searching I only found one pixel defect (a pixel in the upper right quadrant stuck red). There might be a bit of backlight bleed in the bottom left corner but its only apparent at a certain angle in a perfectly dark room with a black screen.

The stand is definitely cheap and awful and I'm going to look into getting a replacement, maybe the monoprice stand if I cant find whatever recycled HP stand is mentioned somewhere in this thread.

Anyway, just thought I'd share my experience if anyone finds it valuable.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Im excited ! and nervous at the same time, I just ordered my first QNIX QX2710 Glossy from green-sum on ebay, They are on sale for only 279 perfect pixel version. I thought that was a good deal so jumped on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it comes without any defects, I'll be sweating bullets until it comes.


You should be excited









That is the BEST price I've seen for the overclockable (96+Hz PLS/single-input) from a reputable dealer, in either Matte or Glossy / with or without the pixel perfect designation! Note: Personally I haven't seen the benefit of paying the $30-$40 dollar premium for the pixel perfect designation as any benefit at all, BUT if you get it for free, what the heck









I also like green-sum over accessorieswhole (no shenanigans w/True10 models) AND for those of you *[mrgamer81]
*that would like the link go *HERE* ...

Additionally I saw your links over in the Yamakazi thread *HERE* for the Catleaps, and the 2B @$315 is a heck of a price also! I personally like the LG S-IPS just slightly over the Samsung/PLS glossy vs glossy but I've never heard of Edxtech (new dealer/player) and wonder how they wrestled some of the Cat2B stock away from green-sum (exclusive Cat2B dealer)? ... Around 6-9mos ago other dealers all of a sudden got their hands on 2B stock and drove the price down to QNIX levels $300-$350 from $700-$800 but that didn't last for long. We'll have to see if Edxtech is for real or not? Green-sum's price for the Cat2B is presently $1500... ridiculous ... you could buy TWO XB270HU's for that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuildTestRepeat*
> 
> There is no guarantee on OC. Its hit or miss, unless you wanna pay a ridiculous price.


Somewhat true







.... But in this thread (PLS/single-input) it is pretty much a 99% "Hit" you will achieve 96+Hz with a slightly less chance you will reach 110Hz ... even at 96Hz that is a huge improvement over typical 60Hz panels!
I'll agree it can be more of a "hit-or-miss" on the golden 120Hz+ especially with the newer L07 panels








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> At the moment it is better to buy a matte, check here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Matte
> 
> Glossy
> 
> 
> 
> the current matte has colors much more vivid and beautiful respect the new glossy, in plus the matte at the time seem to be easier to Oc'd, I had struggle to find the right custom timing for 110 Hz in my previous glossy, I find that is more easier Oc'd at 110 Hz my actual matte.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> This is not matte vs Glossy. These are 2 different panel types, new vs old Qnix panel. New
> Korean panels have poorer contrast & color reproduction.
> 
> If the same panel & settings, a glossy is *always* going to have better colors vs matte. Just glossy have reflections some people dont like.
Click to expand...

Right on, Swolern keeping the integrity of info intact +R









I'm not saying that "N3RORE" "personal" observation isn't true for him, but the "clarity/sharpness" of a glossy over a matte panel is irrefutable ... and if the comparison above was between the older L02 glossy and the newer L07 glossy then we have proof from Kokin *HERE* ... and Tuba *HERE*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DezzBrah*
> 
> Just picked up a refurbished QX2710 for $230 from an Amazon listing by MNW Global. Shipped about 48 hours after I placed my order and took just over a day to get here. I couldn't be happier with what I got, the panel housing looks new as far as I can tell and through all my searching I only found one pixel defect (a pixel in the upper right quadrant stuck red). There might be a bit of backlight bleed in the bottom left corner but its only apparent at a certain angle in a perfectly dark room with a black screen.
> 
> The stand is definitely cheap and awful and I'm going to look into getting a replacement, maybe the monoprice stand if I cant find whatever recycled HP stand is mentioned somewhere in this thread.
> 
> Anyway, just thought I'd share my experience if anyone finds it valuable.


Congrat's! ... it would be helpful if you post the link (exact model) ... AND come back with some overclocking results and your system specs ... thanks T


----------



## garikfox

It looks like those cheaper Edxtech catleaps are Refurbished but the item says new.

Yeah im hoping i made the right choice in getting the QX2710 im mostly worried about dead pixels and severe lightbleed. But for a new Perfect Pixel at 279 seems good to me

I wont be OC'ing so I hope it lasts.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Been browsing still for a triple monitor stand. Looking for a clamp style the the cleaner look, anyone able to recommend me one? I run a 24" 27" 24".


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

WOW is all i can say after getting mine hooked up







! I have no dead pixels and i got the refurb. Sadly my r9 290 died sunday, so i wont be able to OC past 96hz with my old GTX 275 im using temporarily. I got the TOPSYNC 2710, but basically the same monitor.









Would i use the QNIX Driver?


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> I'm pretty sure a correct ICC color profile would fix the color difference in those pictures.


I've tried with my previous Glossy but nothing to be similar the actual matte and as I know isn't possible.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> This is not matte vs Glossy. These are 2 different panel types, new vs old Qnix panel. New
> Korean panels have poorer contrast & color reproduction.
> 
> If the same panel & settings, a glossy is *always* going to have better colors vs matte. Just glossy have reflections some people dont like.


I try to explain better my opinion.
Skipped the correct/incorrect comparison from newer vs older for the color preset, actually isn't more present the older Glossy(or semi-Glossy) and if someone want buy a new(as unused) Glossy model (like me on December 2014) must buy a monitor that use a "L07"(Qnix/X-Star).
This is for me a bad notice if someone want a Qnix/X-Star Glossy overclockable more than 96 Hz.
The big fact is that the newer Glossy is hard to Oc'd @110 Hz with auto timings(honestly I never saw someone), I had struggle to find the right custom timing for 110 Hz without frames skipping and artifacts, but the bad and poor notice was that those timing force my GTX 780 to work.
When I set the monitor @ 110 Hz and in idle condition my graphic card start run at 771 MHz on GPU and 3005 MHz on Vrams, which does not happen with my current Matte that manages at 110 Hz with auto timings(without frames skipping and artifacts) and my GTX 780 stay completely idle(324/324 MHz).


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuildTestRepeat*
> 
> WOW is all i can say after getting mine hooked up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! I have no dead pixels and i got the refurb. Sadly my r9 290 died sunday, so i wont be able to OC past 96hz with my old GTX 275 im using temporarily. I got the TOPSYNC 2710, but basically the same monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would i use the QNIX Driver?


Awesome











So i take it its was well worth it then, lets hope mine is ok to, should be here tomorrow i think.

To be honest I wouldnt use any ICC/driver for it unless it came form the company themselves.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

This is what i get when trying to push past 66HZ, Maybe its due to my old gtx 275? Mine is a single input version just for clarification. Tried the QNIX driver too.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuildTestRepeat*
> 
> [This is what i get when trying to push past 66HZ, Maybe its due to my old gtx 275? Mine is a single input version just for clarification. Tried the QNIX driver too.


You bought a Top Sync which uses an IPS panel and obviously does not have an over clock-able PCB. 65hz is common for the IPS panels without the 2B PCB.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> You bought a Top Sync which uses an IPS panel and obviously does not have an over clock-able PCB. 65hz is common for the IPS panels without the 2B PCB.


Oh well news to me. Ive been reading on these for a long time too :/ lol. Still looks damn good.

I wonder if ill ever find a good deal on a PCB.


----------



## Haas360

I bet this has been asked before but I cant find anything on the search.

If I get one of the new 980 Classys kingpin can I run these monitors at 120hz with a display port > dvi adapter? Because the one im looking at has only 1 DVI and i have two of these monitors.

Currently running at 120hz and 96hz.

Also, how does SLI co-operate with our overclocking?


----------



## prognosis82

So I was going to pull the trigger and buy a QNIX 1440p overclockable monitor last month but I didn't get round to it. Now I am very prepared to do it next week, has anything of note changed in the last month? Or is it the same monitor I should be going for?

This is the one I was going go to buy last month:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121496028479?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks!


----------



## joeh4384

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> I bet this has been asked before but I cant find anything on the search.
> 
> If I get one of the new 980 Classys kingpin can I run these monitors at 120hz with a display port > dvi adapter? Because the one im looking at has only 1 DVI and i have two of these monitors.
> 
> Currently running at 120hz and 96hz.
> 
> Also, how does SLI co-operate with our overclocking?


You can't overclock with an active display port adapter. I have a 295x2 and since I added my 2nd monitor, I cant overclock the original with the 2nd one connected via display port.


----------



## Haas360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh4384*
> 
> You can't overclock with an active display port adapter. I have a 295x2 and since I added my 2nd monitor, I cant overclock the original with the 2nd one connected via display port.


I assume that its the same way with HDMI?

So im forced essentially to get a dual DVI


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> I assume that its the same way with HDMI?
> 
> So im forced essentially to get a dual DVI


Yeah, pretty much.


----------



## garikfox

My QNIX QX2710 got here today, Im really shocked at the nice screen real estate, My brain will take awhile to get used to this lol

All in all its great, no dead pixels that i can see but i also havent hunted for them because i dont want to hehee, there is some light bleed at top middle and lower right corner, Only noticeable on a black screen.

There is a slight green tint to the screen, im not sure how to fix that though i wish i could.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haas360*
> 
> I assume that its the same way with HDMI?
> 
> So im forced essentially to get a dual DVI


best bet is to buy the gigabyte 980 G1. IMHO best card out there with dual dvi


----------



## 21cage12

Monitor arrived today, and below is what I get when try 120hz oc.


----------



## robb41488

ordered one from green-sum. hope to be a positive experience. im used to an old TN 120hz panel

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651


----------



## thrgk

Anyone think upgrading to the asus 4k 28 inch is worth it ? It's like $550


----------



## 21cage12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Anyone think upgrading to the asus 4k 28 inch is worth it ? It's like $550


even the PB287Q which is considered one of the best 4k screens is still TN!, grab one of these monitors and wait for better 4k monitors, that's my advice.


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrgk*
> 
> Anyone think upgrading to the asus 4k 28 inch is worth it ? It's like $550


I just upgraded from my X-star @ 105hz stable to the new Acer B326HK 32"4k ips monitor. I absolutely love this monitor, yes I understand I went from 105hz to 60hz and I primarily game on my pc but I just love the size of the screen and the clarity. Some people love the high refresh rates and some love clarity, I would update my AMD drivers and forget to reset my cru and would be at 60hz and not even realize it. So with that being said, I guess hz doesn't bother me near as much as image quality.


----------



## shoti02

hi.. iam a Little bit disapointed...got a new qnix 2710 but can´t get behind 96 HZ...i run a 290x ( GB crossfire Setup....does anybody now why ? it is the single dvi-d Monitor...if i wen´t over 96 hz i have green lines







.....also i am a Little bit disapointed from the Hype around the colours.....do i use the wrong ICC ? i am not soooo impressed...have the matte perfect Pixel...


----------



## thrgk

Acer has a 4k ips 28 inch for 550 or so maybe I'll get that


----------



## dmv808

What's the consensus? Glossy or matte version of the Qnix?

Thanks


----------



## Plateworks

Anyone know if these have PWM dimming? I get headaches really easy and I'm trying to avoid anything that would cause that.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plateworks*
> 
> Anyone know if these have PWM dimming? I get headaches really easy and I'm trying to avoid anything that would cause that.


They use 130-150hz PWM frequencies depending on the version and there's no way for the seller to differentiate or know which version one will receive without testing it.

http://testufo.com/#test=blurtrail

It might be possible to get an older PWM free matte version, but it's unlikely.


----------



## Plateworks

Quote:


> They use 130-150hz PWM frequencies depending on the version and there's no way for the seller to differentiate or know which version one will receive without testing it.
> 
> http://testufo.com/#test=blurtrail
> 
> It might be possible to get an older PWM free matte version, but it's unlikely.
> Edited by MenacingTuba - Today at 4:31 pm


Thanks for the info I don't want to risk the headaches.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plateworks*
> 
> Thanks for the info I don't want to risk the headaches.


Low PWM frequencies also ruins motion clarity and negates part of the benefits overclocked can provide (reduced motion blur).


----------



## dmv808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plateworks*
> 
> Thanks for the info I don't want to risk the headaches.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Low PWM frequencies also ruins motion clarity and negates part of the benefits overclocked can provide (reduced motion blur).


I thought there was no PWM with brightness set to 100%?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmv808*
> 
> I thought there was no PWM with brightness set to 100%?


Using these monitors with the brightness maxed ruins the image quality (high black level=washed out image and obvious light bleed and very obvious PLS glow) and will likely cause eyestrain unless placed in a very bright room. Lowering GPU's brightness settings raises the gamma (black crush+dull colours) and ruins the image quality as well.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> Anyone got this monitor working at 120Hz in CSGO? Works in dota and windows, but never wants to work in csgo.


120Hz works for me, but I'm using an R9 290. One think to check is to make sure you are using full screen mode and not fullscreen borderless.


----------



## s0crates

Hello all. Anyone knows a good trusted website that can ship to Europe with no problems? Looking to get a Qnix QX2710 Matte but a couple of sellers I contacted on eBay cannot ship to Cyprus for whatever reason, and another asked for extra money. Found another seller and asked him if he can ship (cause Cyprus is in all of their lists) but he offers only the glossy one which I'd rather avoid.

Also, from what I gather (and to make sure so I don't get into the trouble for no reason), 120hz assuming it can be done, will work fine on a couple of 7950s on Crossfire?

Apologies if my first question violates any rules of the forum/thread, thanks in advance


----------



## garikfox

Anyone with the *LTM270DL07* (aka. newer model) panel I found a simple color fix for the slight green tint to our panels, Took me about an hour to find the best setting in Nvidia Control Panel.

To start off my actual brightness form the physical buttons is at 95cdm, 7 clicks up from the lowest setting.

1. Open Nvidia Control Panel and goto Adjust Color

2. Click the bubble NVIDIA settings, 2nd bubble.

3. Now click the color drop down selector and choose "Green".

4. Change Brightness too 45%, Click Apply

To me this looks perfect ! Let me know how yours looks.


----------



## abbb

My X-Star DP2710 just randomly stopped working. The first thing I checked was the power input. I think I noticed a faint burning smell, but I'm not sure. When I touched the power input on the monitor it was really hot. It also turned off sometime in the past day or two, but turned back on after I turned the power input plug a bit. Could this be the power brick failing, the PCB going bad or something else?


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abbb*
> 
> My X-Star DP2710 just randomly stopped working. The first thing I checked was the power input. I think I noticed a faint burning smell, but I'm not sure. When I touched the power input on the monitor it was really hot. It also turned off sometime in the past day or two, but turned back on after I turned the power input plug a bit. Could this be the power brick failing, the PCB going bad or something else?


Could be a numerous amount of things that shorted. Only thing to do is try to localize where the smell is coming from (power brick or PCB) If PCB area then open her up and look for any dark areas on the PCB. Did you have your monitor OC 24/7? Some have had issues with 120hz 24/7.


----------



## abbb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Could be a numerous amount of things that shorted. Only thing to do is try to localize where the smell is coming from (power brick or PCB) If PCB area then open her up and look for any dark areas on the PCB. Did you have your monitor OC 24/7? Some have had issues with 120hz 24/7.


My monitor's only been overclocked for about 24 hours max its entire life. I've found the problem. Some of the soldering joints on the power port are bad. Maybe somebody with a little more experience could tell me why the joint went bad and a good way to fix this particular soldering job.


Spoiler: image


----------



## dgsdm

Quick question,

Will getting one of those Monoprice 24AWG Dual-link DVI Cables increase the picture quality of the monitor? I'm only planning on overclocking my monitor to 96hz so I want to know if it's worth it to buy a better quality cable.

Are they only worth it to achieve higher refresh rates?


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgsdm*
> 
> Quick question,
> 
> Will getting one of those Monoprice 24AWG Dual-link DVI Cables increase the picture quality of the monitor? I'm only planning on overclocking my monitor to 96hz so I want to know if it's worth it to buy a better quality cable.
> 
> Are they only worth it to achieve higher refresh rates?


As far as I know, buying a "better" cable will essentially do nothing for picture quality. It _may_ help you achieve a higher refresh rate, but it is by no means a guarantee. I'm thinking about changing to a different one myself, as my monitor is 97% stable at 110Hz, and I would love to eliminate that very small amount of artifacting I sometimes get. Also, for 96Hz you should be able to use the stock one. It's exceedingly rare that you don't reach that number with a single-link monitor.


----------



## dgsdm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> As far as I know, buying a "better" cable will essentially do nothing for picture quality. It _may_ help you achieve a higher refresh rate, but it is by no means a guarantee. I'm thinking about changing to a different one myself, as my monitor is 97% stable at 110Hz, and I would love to eliminate that very small amount of artifacting I sometimes get. Also, for 96Hz you should be able to use the stock one. It's exceedingly rare that you don't reach that number with a single-link monitor.


Okay thanks! You saved me from spending unnecessarily.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> As far as I know, buying a "better" cable will essentially do nothing for picture quality. It _may_ help you achieve a higher refresh rate, but it is by no means a guarantee. I'm thinking about changing to a different one myself, as my monitor is 97% stable at 110Hz, and I would love to eliminate that very small amount of artifacting I sometimes get. Also, for 96Hz you should be able to use the stock one. It's exceedingly rare that you don't reach that number with a single-link monitor.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgsdm*
> 
> Okay thanks! You saved me from spending unnecessarily.


It's not rare anymore. Newer panels overclock to 90-106Hz and some people top out at 90-91Hz. You seem to have an old panel judging by almost 100% stability at 110Hz. Have you tried tightening your timings to make it 100% stable? I had the odd artifact every couple of minutes at 110Hz while I was playing CoDMW2 (when I bought it end of 2013) which I solved by tightening timings. Got to 115Hz fully stable, and a cable swap got me to 117Hz fully stable. I left it at 110Hz since the extra gamma shift was not worth the 7Hz extra. Plus, topping out at the very last Hz might not bode well for the monitor in the future. I might have to drop down from 117Hz later on as it gets stressed out.


----------



## shoti02

my qnix also does not reach mor then 96hz..i used the predefined settings from the thread starter...does it make sense to try something between 96 and 110 ? because the most use the frequencies. dunno if it is bad to use other frequencies then 96 or 110....i have bought a new cable. but it doesnt chnage anything....got green artefacts at 110 hz







.....i use cru..got any tips ?
is there a huge difference betwwen 96 and 110 ?


----------



## asuka10456

I recently tried Color Sustainer. At first I didn't notice but it was creating a very annoying stutter in games, Especially CS:GO. Anyone else experiencing this? If you use your mouse from left to right over and over you can see/feel it. It happens often during fast movement. After removing it, games are back to being smooth.


----------



## seanp2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shoti02*
> 
> hi.. iam a Little bit disapointed...got a new qnix 2710 but can´t get behind 96 HZ...i run a 290x ( GB crossfire Setup....does anybody now why ? it is the single dvi-d Monitor...if i wen´t over 96 hz i have green lines
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....also i am a Little bit disapointed from the Hype around the colours.....do i use the wrong ICC ? i am not soooo impressed...have the matte perfect Pixel...


hey man hopefully you figured this out but you need to install the qnix driver but first disable driver sig enforcement if that has been done check timings maybe try cru if running multiple displays make sure you applied driver to the right monitor.

Just wanted to post still loving my Qnix. It works great in Windows 10. I feel like a fool for actually wanting a rog swift. Also like someone else posted 4k is not ready for overall gaming. Not just yet. Cards are there but there are all sorts of other issues where as 1440p is the current sweet spot.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> I recently tried Color Sustainer. At first I didn't notice but it was creating a very annoying stutter in games, Especially CS:GO. Anyone else experiencing this? If you use your mouse from left to right over and over you can see/feel it. It happens often during fast movement. After removing it, games are back to being smooth.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/260#post_23705059


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuka10456*
> 
> I recently tried Color Sustainer. At first I didn't notice but it was creating a very annoying stutter in games, Especially CS:GO. Anyone else experiencing this? If you use your mouse from left to right over and over you can see/feel it. It happens often during fast movement. After removing it, games are back to being smooth.


Increase the polling period. If it is set too low it can cause issues. Something like 10000 should work fine.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> It's not rare anymore. Newer panels overclock to 90-106Hz and some people top out at 90-91Hz. You seem to have an old panel judging by almost 100% stability at 110Hz. Have you tried tightening your timings to make it 100% stable? I had the odd artifact every couple of minutes at 110Hz while I was playing CoDMW2 (when I bought it end of 2013) which I solved by tightening timings. Got to 115Hz fully stable, and a cable swap got me to 117Hz fully stable. I left it at 110Hz since the extra gamma shift was not worth the 7Hz extra. Plus, topping out at the very last Hz might not bode well for the monitor in the future. I might have to drop down from 117Hz later on as it gets stressed out.


Sorry for any misinformation. My panel is a newer one I think, I bought it used so I can't know for sure until I open it. I might try and loosen my timings later, thanks for the suggestion! (Also mine was pretty green heavy before I corrected it, I heard that new panels have that? Not sure.)


----------



## shoti02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanp2501*
> 
> hey man hopefully you figured this out but you need to install the qnix driver but first disable driver sig enforcement if that has been done check timings maybe try cru if running multiple displays make sure you applied driver to the right monitor.
> 
> Just wanted to post still loving my Qnix. It works great in Windows 10. I feel like a fool for actually wanting a rog swift. Also like someone else posted 4k is not ready for overall gaming. Not just yet. Cards are there but there are all sorts of other issues where as 1440p is the current sweet spot.


i have no multiple displays....but what Drivers u ar talking about ??? i used the atipatcher and then Cru....i have Radeon Cards...


----------



## seanp2501

you need the qnix driver for the monitor to be recognized properly in Windows as a Qnix2710 I believe the file is in the first post...


----------



## shoti02

_Update: Single nvidia card owners are now recommended to NOT use CRU. Instead use the NvCP and the qnix drivers linked directly below.
QNIX monitor driver for Nvidia (Instructions inside)
_

but i have Radeon Cards....


----------



## yoonie

Hey guys, I've been looking at these panels for a while, and with my tax refund coming I plan to pick up a 970 and a QX2710. Am I right that all 970s come with 2 dual link DVI ports (1 DVI-D, 1 DVI-i)?

Also, is this the right model?

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-Glossy/dp/B00OCTOJVG/ref=sr_1_8?m=A1M9QA7JDX7OF6&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1427136900&sr=1-8

I double checked everything but I just want to be sure. I wouldn't be able to tell if it's a newer/older panel until I received it, correct? So a safe # to hope for would be 96 Hz? As far as I can tell, it's not SE or off grade (which I'm avoiding due to fear of dead pixels), but also not Pixel Perfect (which apparently doesn't actually make a difference?). There's also the pixel perfect one from greensum on ebay at 280, but I'd rather save the 5 bucks and get amazon service if pixel perfect doesn't make a difference.

If there's anything I'm getting wrong, please let me know!


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shoti02*
> 
> _Update: Single nvidia card owners are now recommended to NOT use CRU. Instead use the NvCP and the qnix drivers linked directly below.
> QNIX monitor driver for Nvidia (Instructions inside)
> _
> 
> but i have Radeon Cards....


If you have an AMD card you don't need the driver. You do, however, have to use the patcher and CRU to set the custom refresh. It would be nice if AMD would get out of the stone ages and incorporate that into their driver.


----------



## robb41488

just a heads up about these cheap green-sum monitors

the evolution II 2 actually means these are the SE models. as ive seen in this thread most of these have the worst risks of them all. bad uniformity, bad bl bleed. just a heads up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## shoti02

ok...then i did everything right and the Monitor won´t get over 96 hz....







.....i am satisfied....


----------



## yoonie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> just a heads up about these cheap green-sum monitors
> 
> the evolution II 2 actually means these are the SE models. as ive seen in this thread most of these have the worst risks of them all. bad uniformity, bad bl bleed. just a heads up.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Thanks, I guess I'll be sticking to the amazon one then.

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-Glossy/dp/B00OCTOJVG/ref=sr_1_8?m=A1M9QA7JDX7OF6&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1427136900&sr=1-8

is the right one?


----------



## shoti02

got mine from Amazon too....paid for ultimate perfect Pixel...but can´t get over 96 hz....think that the Amazon deals are old Panels....which ar not so overclockable.....


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shoti02*
> 
> got mine from Amazon too....paid for ultimate perfect Pixel...but can´t get over 96 hz....think that the Amazon deals are old Panels....which ar not so overclockable.....


Bought mine off of accessorieswhole through ebay. Gets unstable at 105Hz, so I just keep it at 96Hz


----------



## shoti02

hmm...thats dissapointig....also got lightbleeding .....or it is my viewing angle....


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Anyone with the *LTM270DL07* (aka. newer model) panel I found a simple color fix for the slight green tint to our panels, Took me about an hour to find the best setting in Nvidia Control Panel.
> 
> 1. Open Nvidia Control Panel and goto Adjust Color
> 
> 2. Click the bubble NVIDIA settings, 2nd bubble.
> 
> 3. Now click the color drop down selector and choose "Green".
> 
> 4. Change Brightness too 42%, Click Apply
> 
> 5. Now goto Digital Vibrance and set that to 54%, Click Apply
> 
> To me this looks perfect ! Let me know how yours looks.


Good, can You post some pictures to show the difference?


----------



## BuzzinDSM

OK I've tried reading through this thread but I'm struggling with the 460 pages......

I'm using a GTX 980 Asus Strix which has one DVI connection

I only want a one monitor set-up

About 20% of my time I'll be playing FPS's.

I see these
QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 SE Monitor - 2560x1440 Overclockable---NewEgg---MNW Global---$289

QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll LED 2560x1440 QHD PLS Panel by samsung Monitor DVI-D MATTEE Screen Perfect pixel----Amazon--- ECOMADE ARENA---$368

Are these the same?
Is there another model I should consider with similar specs?
Stand options?

Thanks in advance


----------



## robb41488

they are very similar

the true10 is a 10bit screen with a glossy panel

the evolution II matte is an 8 bit screen with a matte panel.

the choice is yours but id personally stay away from the true10
they dont oc as well and nothing really outputs 10bit anyway


----------



## BuzzinDSM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> they are very similar
> 
> the true10 is a 10bit screen with a glossy panel
> 
> the evolution II matte is an 8 bit screen with a matte panel.
> 
> the choice is yours but id personally stay away from the true10
> they dont oc as well and nothing really outputs 10bit anyway


So you think the 2nd one is worth $80 more? I'd rather buy from Amazon anyway and was about ready to drop $850 on the Acer so if I have to pay a little extra so be it.


----------



## BuzzinDSM

OK this is confusing. Now I see this one

http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427201091&sr=8-1&keywords=QNIX+QX2710+matte

2560x1440 High Resolution WQHD Panel / 43W Low power consumption.
178 wide viewing angle / LED backlight / Bypass board
Matte type screen / Piano-black high glossy slim bezel / TILT stand / Dual DVI-D
Beautiful images with 50,000 levels contrast ration / 8ms Respond time
5W+5W Built-in speaker / Space-efficiency using walls(100X100 VESA holes)

I assume this will work with my Asus 980


----------



## mrgamer81

Just avoid when u see multi, they can't overclock. The one on amazone is one u want or the one from link 2 in your post.


----------



## Proxish

I don't know if it's already been brought up. But I wanted to ask if anyone in the modding community is working on a firmware update for the QX2710 to enable FreeSync.
From my understanding, the difference in FreeSync working or not working, is the firmware the monitor is running.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuzzinDSM*
> 
> OK this is confusing. Now I see this one
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-LED-Monitor/dp/B00BUI44US/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427201091&sr=8-1&keywords=QNIX+QX2710+matte
> 
> 2560x1440 High Resolution WQHD Panel / 43W Low power consumption.
> 178 wide viewing angle / LED backlight / Bypass board
> Matte type screen / Piano-black high glossy slim bezel / TILT stand / Dual DVI-D
> Beautiful images with 50,000 levels contrast ration / 8ms Respond time
> 5W+5W Built-in speaker / Space-efficiency using walls(100X100 VESA holes)
> 
> I assume this will work with my Asus 980


this is a non pixel perfect. thats the only difference between this and the second you linked before.

pixel perfect is said to be a joke but i got one "just in case" i get a dud


----------



## gabbylee690

Hey all,

I've managed to oc my qnix 2710 to 110hz with the closer timings. Currently using Yasa's colour profile via colour sustainer.

One problem I'm experiencing now is that my nvidia control panel is not working. Is there any way to get it working? Or any program that can digitally reduce brightness?

I'm quite desperate as there's flickering on the 2 lowest settings of brightness. But setting the brightness any higher hurts my eyes (even with colour sustainer),,

Would really appreciate any form of help, thanks!


----------



## piee

Max brit no PWM flicker than NVCP 27brit,10con,1.09gam,56vib,all channels,OC119 pxlclk459,2660hor1451vert,stable,EVGA9801505oc4790k4.6


----------



## gabbylee690

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piee*
> 
> Max brit no PWM flicker than NVCP 27brit,10con,1.09gam,56vib,all channels,OC119 pxlclk459,2660hor1451vert,stable,EVGA9801505oc4790k4.6


Sorry, I'm kinda new to this. Would you mind explaining what to do?


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Anyone with the *LTM270DL07* (aka. newer model) panel I found a simple color fix for the slight green tint to our panels, Took me about an hour to find the best setting in Nvidia Control Panel.
> 
> To start off my actual brightness form the physical buttons is at 95cdm, 7 clicks up from the lowest setting.
> 
> 1. Open Nvidia Control Panel and goto Adjust Color
> 
> 2. Click the bubble NVIDIA settings, 2nd bubble.
> 
> 3. Now click the color drop down selector and choose "Green".
> 
> 4. Change Brightness too 45%, Click Apply
> 
> To me this looks perfect ! Let me know how yours looks.


Updated


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Proxish*
> 
> I don't know if it's already been brought up. But I wanted to ask if anyone in the modding community is working on a firmware update for the QX2710 to enable FreeSync.
> From my understanding, the difference in FreeSync working or not working, is the firmware the monitor is running.


FreeSync work only with DP 1.2a and not with DVI.


----------



## Proxish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> FreeSync work only with DP 1.2a and not with DVI.


Ah, well that's a shame.
I guess that's what out the window.


----------



## piee

find a gamma app online
to control britness via software likeNVCP


----------



## hutt132

I think my monitor died after 6 months. :/

http://www.overclock.net/t/1547890/qnix-qx2710-monitor-stopped-working-blinking-blue-light


----------



## shoti02

on amd cards i can not install a driver for the qnix is this right ? i can only use cru but if i wan´t to install the driver it says that there is no better driver then the existing...is this right ?


----------



## gabbylee690

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piee*
> 
> find a gamma app online
> to control britness via software likeNVCP


colour sustainer and NVCP seem to be in conflict though. I can either keep the lowered brightness or the colour profile but not both.. any ideas?


----------



## piee

not sure, whats more important color or flicker I have newer DL07 and nvidia 980 and control color and brit in Nvcp


----------



## meiosis

Hey quite a few questions!

I ordered the QNIX 2710 Evo II SE,

Mine came with no dead pixels (as far as I can tell I've checked the standard tests, *how obvious should it be*?)
Mine overclocked to 118 (frame skips at 119 and green lines near toolbar at 120) straight out of the box (Would installing the QNIX drivers be helpful or are they strictly for overclocking? *Can I get away with not installing the drivers?*) Do people get over 120hz or do they just round up?
No blacklight bleed!

I was worried that like everyone was saying the SE was an inferior model, *is there actually any difference in terms of components*? I asked my seller (accessorieswhole) and he never answered me completely but quoted the warranty difference of <5 pixels (se) and <3 pixels (non-se)

I'm quite happy but would just like to know if the SE and non-SE are actually any different!


----------



## thrgk

I never Installed any qnix drivers just patched amd and user cru. Are the drivers required or do they offer any benefit ?


----------



## ImLovely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabbylee690*
> 
> colour sustainer and NVCP seem to be in conflict though. I can either keep the lowered brightness or the colour profile but not both.. any ideas?


I use this when I read at the PC at night and as far as I can tell it doesn't interfere with color sustainer.

http://www.nelsonpires.com/software/dimmer/


----------



## gabbylee690

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImLovely*
> 
> I use this when I read at the PC at night and as far as I can tell it doesn't interfere with color sustainer.
> 
> http://www.nelsonpires.com/software/dimmer/


Oh wow! My eyes are so grateful!


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meiosis*
> 
> Hey quite a few questions!
> 
> I ordered the QNIX 2710 Evo II SE,
> 
> Mine came with no dead pixels (as far as I can tell I've checked the standard tests, *how obvious should it be*?)
> Mine overclocked to 118 (frame skips at 119 and green lines near toolbar at 120) straight out of the box (Would installing the QNIX drivers be helpful or are they strictly for overclocking? *Can I get away with not installing the drivers?*) Do people get over 120hz or do they just round up?
> No blacklight bleed!
> 
> I was worried that like everyone was saying the SE was an inferior model, *is there actually any difference in terms of components*? I asked my seller (accessorieswhole) and he never answered me completely but quoted the warranty difference of <5 pixels (se) and <3 pixels (non-se)
> 
> I'm quite happy but would just like to know if the SE and non-SE are actually any different!


i hope my monitor is the same story as yours. I've read mixed things about the SE across this board. everyone just states its the same internals with a more relaxed QC check. Like your seller stated they can have up to 5 pixels bad. My seller told me explicitly theyre is no difference between the 2

"The SE model do not have more pixels necessarily. There are many different cause for pixels such as poor handling or just during natural production." Green-sum

The interesting thing is mine is a "pixel perfect" SE.... not sure how that makes sense as the monitor can potentially have more dead pixels than a non-SE?

on a side note, MINE ARRIVED TODAY!!!!!! I cant wait to get off of work to install it!!! fingers crossed for a perfect panel


----------



## garikfox

I got the same one you did and I havent noticed any dead pixels yet, Slight lightbleed top middle and lower right though. So far its been great It already has 80+ hours on it.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> I got the same one you did and I havent noticed any dead pixels yet, Slight lightbleed top middle and lower right though. So far its been great It already has 80+ hours on it.


.
sweet deal. hopefully mines the same









couldnt pass up $279 for a PP


----------



## garikfox

Yeah same here, I didnt know it was a SE until few days ago though, ohh well


----------



## 21cage12

Will do with a bit of help here;

I hope you can see that purple bleed on the left side. That's at 100hz overclocked, it reduces a little bit when at 96hz but it will still be there, any tips on this will be much appreciated.


----------



## piee

possible gamma shift due to oc increase britness


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> Yeah same here, I didnt know it was a SE until few days ago though, ohh well


ok so i plug in my monitor. ITS ALIVE!!!! and its PERFECT. almost no backlight bleed at all, just IPS glow which im used to from my edgelit tv anyway.

open up nvcp and forve it to 96hz. perfect. no dead pixels no BL bleed, no uniformity issues!!!

highly recommend green-sum and his 279 pixel perfect









http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## garikfox

Hehee told you there good









I have a little backlight bleed but ive seen alot worse on some of these.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piee*
> 
> Max brightNess for no PWM flicker than go to NVCP
> 27brightness
> 10con
> 1.09gama
> 56vibrance all channels
> OC119 pxlclk459
> 2660hor1451vert
> stable
> EVGA980
> 1505oc
> 4790k 4.6ghz


There I fixed it for you


----------



## piee

bless you


----------



## venturizhou

So I have been reading through the forum and tried some of the fixes for the QNIX not receiving a display signal. It does the same thing as others have posted where it will POST, then when it boots into windows it will go blank and then it shows the red blinking light. I currently have another monitor hooked up via HDMI to try to fix the situation.

The monitor is being shown in NVCP.

I noticed that on a fresh install of windows the QNIX will work but will go blank immediately after installing the latest Nvidia updates. I have installed the QNIX drivers, tried CRU, just trying to figure out what may be happening that causes it to not work after installing display drivers. I am on 347.88.
Thanks.


----------



## Sader0

Guys !

just a simple question - I'm looking to build a smallest PC that can run this Monitor (single input Qnix 2710) - can anyone recommend something ?
So far stopped on AMD APU built in Graphics, something like low powered Trinity(can confirm LCD is working with A10-5800K CPU graphics), Richland or Kaveri.....any other options ?

Interested in smallest PC footprint possible.....to hide it behind LCD on the wall

Thanks
Sader


----------



## xioros

Ageing / Degrading?

My QX2710 just started to show artefacts... first at 85Hz, so I clocked down to 60Hz, and they are still appear and go away. (Blue pixels, lines, flashing, warping etc etc).
Now running 30Hz, still there.

Is my monitor dying (already)? I'm running an eVGA GTX 780 Ti @stock speeds, it ran about 5% of it's life overclocked, and I'm fairly certain this isn't my GPU (games etc do not crash, but the artefact issues remain).

I ordered mine from Green-Sum at Ebay on 7/10/2013, that's not even one and a half year...


----------



## 21cage12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *21cage12*
> 
> Will do with a bit of help here;
> 
> I hope you can see that purple bleed on the left side. That's at 100hz overclocked, it reduces a little bit when at 96hz but it will still be there, any tips on this will be much appreciated.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piee*
> 
> possible gamma shift due to oc increase britness


Ok thanks, but how is it solved, if I want to keep my overclock?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sader0*
> 
> Guys !
> 
> just a simple question - I'm looking to build a smallest PC that can run this Monitor (single input Qnix 2710) - can anyone recommend something ?
> So far stopped on AMD APU built in Graphics, something like low powered Trinity(can confirm LCD is working with A10-5800K CPU graphics), Richland or Kaveri.....any other options ?
> 
> Interested in smallest PC footprint possible.....to hide it behind LCD on the wall
> 
> Thanks
> Sader


i have a microcenter TW801 that i use as my "htpc". its fast enough to run this resolution as it is a baytrail with hd4000. it has a mini-hdmi out but thatll do you no good on this monitor. youll need an active usb3.0 to dual-dvi to run it.

the nice thing is that if you use velcro you can actually use the tablet still!

the hardest part is going to be finding something small enough with a true dual link dvi port unfortunitly

something like this would work tho http://zotacusa.com/zotac-z68-itx-wifi-supreme-z68itx-b-e.html


----------



## 0verpowered

Just paired the Monoprice 24awg cable with my qnix and now can do 120hz without red lines flickering on the screen. Cable is a beast but its worth it. Nothing touches this monitor for the price!

Edit: Spoke too soon. No more red lines on the desktop, but once I launch a game, i get the intermittent horizontal lines. May need some tweaking.


----------



## Claiss

I posted a thread on here about returning my catleap multi input version because it has severe backlight bleed and going with a Qnix qx2710 however someone linked 



 about the newer Qnix qx2710s using different panels than the older ones. I'm looking at buying this one as it is the only Qnix that is fulfilled by amazon and I like being covered by amazon's return policy. Is it still worth it to buy these panels or should I look somewhere else? I loved the picture quality of my catleap but when it has backlight bleed that takes up 3/4 of the screen i just couldn't stand it in games with dark scenes.


----------



## scatlm

Hey guys, I havent posted here in a really long time. Just wanted to report back - its been a year since I bought my matte QX2710 and it's still running perfectly fine with zero defective pixels. And it runs overclocked at 96hz all of the time.

I just thought I should share that since people usually post when someone's gone wrong, but rarely post when things are working fine.


----------



## Sader0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> i have a microcenter TW801 that i use as my "htpc". its fast enough to run this resolution as it is a baytrail with hd4000. it has a mini-hdmi out but thatll do you no good on this monitor. youll need an active usb3.0 to dual-dvi to run it.
> 
> the nice thing is that if you use velcro you can actually use the tablet still!
> 
> the hardest part is going to be finding something small enough with a true dual link dvi port unfortunitly
> 
> something like this would work tho http://zotacusa.com/zotac-z68-itx-wifi-supreme-z68itx-b-e.html


thanks for advise - thought hdmi - dvi-d was not possible in our case.
Can you point to the adapter used & working with QX2710 ?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sader0*
> 
> thanks for advise - thought hdmi - dvi-d was not possible in our case.
> Can you point to the adapter used & working with QX2710 ?


turns out theres no active adapters that can do this resolution unless they are for DP

this thread will help you alot
http://www.overclock.net/t/1376755/small-smallest-box-to-drive-30-2560-x-1600-lcd-via-dual-link-dvi-d-displayport/10

heres a good example of TN vs IPS/PLS side-by-side. both are at an angle so you can see viewing angles

the left monitor is a alienware (dell) aw2310 TN 120hz 3d panel. horrible color accuracy, horrible BL glow, dim, thick AG coating but super fast!
right monitor qnix qx2710 IPS set to 96hz , color accurate, bl glow just a tad, no AG coating, super smooth!




my panel developed a small amount of BL bleed at the top from settling on my desk. So I did an old trick that i learned on the AVS forums for my tv.

take a terry cloth towel, dampen it just a bit. with the screen off applying light pressure to the screen wipe vertically while supporting the back of the case with your other hand. turn on the monitor and check to see if it helped. at this point my bl bleed was almost gone. so with the monitor on i did the same thing very carefully as to not disturb the liquid too much and was able to massage out all of my BL bleed as seen above


----------



## emsj86

So I will pulling the trigger on a qnix but before I do is the overlord tempest anymore than a new bezel and stand. Or does it have a custom pcb?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0verpowered*
> 
> Just paired the Monoprice 24awg cable with my qnix and now can do 120hz without red lines flickering on the screen. Cable is a beast but its worth it. Nothing touches this monitor for the price!
> 
> Edit: Spoke too soon. No more red lines on the desktop, but once I launch a game, i get the intermittent horizontal lines. May need some tweaking.


bro, can you PN me about this cable you have? i have 3x of these monitors and im only using one at the moment with stock everything. stock power cable and dvi cables and only get 96hz. If i can get more due to a cable.


----------



## Jesse36m3

Guys, Any benefit to buying a new DL-DVI cable? I've had the QNIX for a little over a year. Haven't tried to overclock it yet .. but now that I've got SLI 970's, it seems I can easily push the 60fps barrier. Should I get a new cable before I even try?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> bro, can you PN me about this cable you have? i have 3x of these monitors and im only using one at the moment with stock everything. stock power cable and dvi cables and only get 96hz. If i can get more due to a cable. then hook a brother up lol. But i would like for you to test it out before i get one like you and we can potentially help eachother out.


It seems like the most important factor when it comes to the cable is the length. The shorter the cable the better.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jesse36m3*
> 
> Guys, Any benefit to buying a new DL-DVI cable? I've had the QNIX for a little over a year. Haven't tried to overclock it yet .. but now that I've got SLI 970's, it seems I can easily push the 60fps barrier. Should I get a new cable before I even try?


The cable that comes with the Qnix seems to be fairly high quality and is pretty short. I would try that first. Overclocking is pretty straight forward so you will know in a couple minutes whether your going to have trouble or not. Try 96hz first and go from there. If you have trouble at 96, then you may want to look into a higher cable. If you can do 96 but have problems at say 110, well that's probably just panel lottery and no need for a new cable.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Hey guys, I havent posted here in a really long time. Just wanted to report back - its been a year since I bought my matte QX2710 and it's still running perfectly fine with zero defective pixels. And it runs overclocked at 96hz all of the time.
> 
> I just thought I should share that since people usually post when someone's gone wrong, but rarely post when things are working fine.


Very good! my also run @ 96 Hz and I hope that it will work like this for 10 years!!!


----------



## OkanG

Just so you know, the Glossy Qnix is 285$ on ebay.co.uk right now. I got mine for 385 back in the day I think, and I'm considering getting another one


----------



## jdstock76

So with the ROG Swift out and the new ACER now out is it still worth it to buy one of these? Which model is the OC'able one? And are the rumors about the OC not being a reliable OC true? Glossy or Matte? Which do y'all prefer?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> So with the ROG Swift out and the new ACER now out is it still worth it to buy one of these? Which model is the OC'able one? And are the rumors about the OC not being a reliable OC true? Glossy or Matte? Which do y'all prefer?


The ROG Swift is like more than twice the price from what I remember, so that's not really a fair comparison. The single input one is the overclockable one if you want to push it past 85Hz and I prefer Glossy.

Most of the stuff you wanna know is probably in the OP, so check that for anything else you wanna know


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> The ROG Swift is like more than twice the price from what I remember, so that's not really a fair comparison. The single input one is the overclockable one if you want to push it past 85Hz and I prefer Glossy.
> 
> Most of the stuff you wanna know is probably in the OP, so check that for anything else you wanna know


Roger that and thanks. Didn't think to check OP. I saw 23000 posts and panicked. LoL


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Roger that and thanks. Didn't think to check OP. I saw 23000 posts and panicked. LoL


Glad I could help. Always check OP


----------



## 0verpowered

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> bro, can you PN me about this cable you have? i have 3x of these monitors and im only using one at the moment with stock everything. stock power cable and dvi cables and only get 96hz. If i can get more due to a cable.


http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Kokin

3 feet cables are the best if you want to go further, however not everyone's setup may support 3 feet cables.


----------



## dmv808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> The ROG Swift is like more than twice the price from what I remember, so that's not really a fair comparison. The single input one is the overclockable one if you want to push it past 85Hz and I prefer Glossy.
> 
> Most of the stuff you wanna know is probably in the OP, so check that for anything else you wanna know


Is Glossy extremely reflective to the point where if you have any light in the room you deal with issues?

Thanks


----------



## Feyla

Hi guys, I previously had a HD 7950 and overclocked my Qnix with CRU to 110hz. I've now upgraded to a GTX 770, can anyone help me use the Nvidia control panel to get my OC back to 110hz? I could probably work it out but don't want to mess up









These were my settings on CRU:

Refresh Rate: 110
Front porch vertical: 1
Sync width vertical: 2
Back porch horizontal: 12
Back porch vertical: 2


----------



## piee

try restoring to earlier time or update driver or power brick


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Hi guys, I previously had a HD 7950 and overclocked my Qnix with CRU to 110hz. I've now upgraded to a GTX 770, can anyone help me use the Nvidia control panel to get my OC back to 110hz? I could probably work it out but don't want to mess up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These were my settings on CRU:
> 
> Refresh Rate: 110
> Front porch vertical: 1
> Sync width vertical: 2
> Back porch horizontal: 12
> Back porch vertical: 2


Try automatic timing, but don't instal GeForce Experience or if it is installed try without.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Claiss*
> 
> I posted a thread on here about returning my catleap multi input version because it has severe backlight bleed and going with a Qnix qx2710 however someone linked
> 
> 
> 
> about the newer Qnix qx2710s using different panels than the older ones. I'm looking at buying this one as it is the only Qnix that is fulfilled by amazon and I like being covered by amazon's return policy. Is it still worth it to buy these panels or should I look somewhere else? I loved the picture quality of my catleap but when it has backlight bleed that takes up 3/4 of the screen i just couldn't stand it in games with dark scenes.


Depends if you want to overclock @ 96Hz or possibly higher up to 120Hz ... I would not be to concerned with the older vs newer panels as there is nothing you can do about it. The panel you linked is your best bet but if your not overclocking there are other 60Hz only options.
If you don't have to go through Amazon, *THIS* one is slightly cheaper from a reputable dealer.









Really the only other panel that compares (actually outperforms @144Hz) in performance and picture quality is the just released Acer XB270HU ... but it's $800 even if you could get one( read HERE) ... it also does NOT come in a "glossy" version ... yet?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Hey guys, I havent posted here in a really long time. Just wanted to report back - its been a year since I bought my matte QX2710 and it's still running perfectly fine with zero defective pixels. And it runs overclocked at 96hz all of the time.
> 
> I just thought I should share that since people usually post when someone's gone wrong, but rarely post when things are working fine.


Nice!, it's always good to here the positive +R ...
Mine is a little older and still going strong at 120Hz gaming / 110Hz desktop









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> So I will pulling the trigger on a qnix but before I do is the overlord tempest anymore than a new bezel and stand. Or does it have a custom pcb?


Yes it is different ... it uses the LG S-IPS panel and is a true glossy, it is more like the Yamakazi Cat2B and IMHO has a very slightly better PQ ... But the overclocking PCB is no different, they just seem to have a reliable source for the proper OC parts.
If you don't mind the $150 premium then I'd go with the Tempest ... plus you will get better service and I bet replacement parts if? you ever need them, and will always be available and cheaper? to their customers









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> The cable that comes with the Qnix seems to be fairly high quality and is pretty short. I would try that first. Overclocking is pretty straight forward so you will know in a couple minutes whether your going to have trouble or not. Try 96hz first and go from there. If you have trouble at 96, then you may want to look into a higher cable. If you can do 96 but have problems at say 110, well that's probably just panel lottery and no need for a new cable.


THIS^^^^ +R ... unless you have a bad stock cable, mine is 5' and working fine @120Hz+, a shorter 3" cable might help but not much according to most users in this thread








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> So with the ROG Swift out and the new ACER now out is it still worth it to buy one of these? Which model is the OC'able one? And are the rumors about the OC not being a reliable OC true? Glossy or Matte? Which do y'all prefer?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> The ROG Swift is like more than twice the price from what I remember, so that's not really a fair comparison. The single input one is the overclockable one if you want to push it past 85Hz and I prefer Glossy.
> 
> Most of the stuff you wanna know is probably in the OP, so check that for anything else you wanna know
Click to expand...

The Acer XB270HU @$800 (semi-gloss/not glossy) is the only competitor for picture quality and speed if you can get one (see link above)









The Swift should only be considered if you only care about speed and NOT picture quality. I tried one (actually 3) for a few weeks and returned all of them, @$700 for me I couldn't believe how bad the AG coating was and not mentioning how bad a TN panel looks compared to IPS/PLS, along with a troublesome overclocked G-Sync module, pixel inversions etc etc ... just go read for yourself *HERE* ...









99% of the single-input PLS models will do 96Hz / many will go to 110Hz / some will do 120Hz+ but not many recently. ALL of them are reliable stable overclocks when proper implementation is done, see OP or my sig. I prefer the glossy, see my comments below. Personally @$300 I'm sticking with the QNIX/Cat2B at least until we see if the XB270HU doesn't turn out like the Rog Swift quality wise ... AND they come out with a "Glossy" ...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmv808*
> 
> Is Glossy extremely reflective to the point where if you have any light in the room you deal with issues?
> 
> Thanks


Glossy is definitely reflective, but many of us demand the extra picture clarity/quality it provides over a matte finish! You will need to be able to control certain light sources within your environment. Try using (or borrowing) your glossy laptop in the same position as your desktop screen would be, that will give you a good comparison. As a last resort you could also use a quality smartphone/ipad for the same test









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Hi guys, I previously had a HD 7950 and overclocked my Qnix with CRU to 110hz. I've now upgraded to a GTX 770, can anyone help me use the Nvidia control panel to get my OC back to 110hz? I could probably work it out but don't want to mess up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These were my settings on CRU:
> 
> Refresh Rate: 110
> Front porch vertical: 1
> Sync width vertical: 2
> Back porch horizontal: 12
> Back porch vertical: 2


I'd start fresh, completely removing all traces of the AMD drivers and CRU, it is not needed with Nvidia GPU's (GTX770). Then initially I'd try overclocking in the NVCP ONLY with standard/stock timings. You may be surprised at how well "simple" Nvidia GPU's work with OC'ing the panel ... go *HERE* for more Info and timing's ...


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I'd start fresh, completely removing all traces of the AMD drivers and CRU, it is not needed with Nvidia GPU's (GTX770). Then initially I'd try overclocking in the NVCP ONLY with standard/stock timings. You may be surprised at how well "simple" Nvidia GPU's work with OC'ing the panel ... go *HERE* for more Info and timing's ...


Thank you, I managed to get my 110hz back with these settings: 

In fact I managed to get it 112 hz as you can see. I put it on 120hz with same timings and I got artifacts, but I'm going to increase the hz in 1 increments to see how high it will get before I start getting artifacts.

edit: Okay at 115hz I get artifacts with these timings, 114hz works fine. Is there anything I can try to change to get it higher?

I think I could change the "Total pixels" values? But I don't really understand that part.


----------



## piee

I have 119hz
2646hor
1446ver
455.30pxlclk
172 refreshrate

I had it at 120hz but got blue screen freeze and had to reboot safe mode than I restored to earlier point and lowered to 119, If vert/hor numbers are unbalanced you will see when testing
find stable balance, no green line shooting cross screen, noticed when installed driver update was able to hit 120 again but fiddled to lower pixel clk and bluescreen so restored and now
sticking to 119 which 980 can maintain FPS when oc to 1505. whatever your monitor hz is is what you want FPS to be.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Thank you, I managed to get my 110hz back with these settings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact I managed to get it 112 hz as you can see. I put it on 120hz with same timings and I got artifacts, but I'm going to increase the hz in 1 increments to see how high it will get before I start getting artifacts.
> 
> edit: Okay at 115hz I get artifacts with these timings, 114hz works fine. Is there anything I can try to change to get it higher?
> 
> I think I could change the "Total pixels" values? But I don't really understand that part.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *piee*
> 
> I have 119hz
> 2646hor
> 1446ver
> 455.30pxlclk
> 172 refreshrate
> 
> I had it at 120hz but got blue screen freeze and had to reboot safe mode than I restored to earlier point and lowered to 119, If vert/hor numbers are unbalanced you will see when testing
> find stable balance, no green line shooting cross screen, noticed when installed driver update was able to hit 120 again but fiddled to lower pixel clk and bluescreen so restored and now
> sticking to 119 which 980 can maintain FPS when oc to 1505. *whatever your monitor hz is is what you want FPS to be*.
Click to expand...

Nice!







... Yes you could fiddle with the Total Horz/Vert Pixels, it will adjust the other variables automatically,
this is how Lawson, myself and others found acceptable timings to deal with the ram desktop downclocking/power saving challenge almost a year ago now ... you may find 2-3Hz improvements ... *But* your rock solid again at 110Hz with some minor overhead safety so go enjoy one of the best bang for buck "cheats" in gaming history









@piee ... Yes it's ideal to match FPS to your refresh rate, but for those that don't have $1000+ GPU budgets you will still see some benefits even when your avg FPS is well below your target/set refresh rate


----------



## peabody624

Hey guys I'm new/looking to upgrade my monitor (an aging, super heavy LG) and I found out about qnix a while back. Read some of this thread and came down to these two monitors:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651#shpCntId?rmvSB=true

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DP-MULTI-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-Monitor-/141481152682?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f0ef10aa

I'm on a gtx-770 superclocked, I doing a decent bit of gaming and photoshop stuff. Which monitor would you recommend (or one I didn't link)?

Also, best recommended cable? I'm guessing I should use displayport?


----------



## meiosis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peabody624*
> 
> Hey guys I'm new/looking to upgrade my monitor (an aging, super heavy LG) and I found out about qnix a while back. Read some of this thread and came down to these two monitors:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651#shpCntId?rmvSB=true
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DP-MULTI-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-Monitor-/141481152682?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f0ef10aa
> 
> I'm on a gtx-770 superclocked, I doing a decent bit of gaming and photoshop stuff. Which monitor would you recommend (or one I didn't link)?
> 
> Also, best recommended cable? I'm guessing I should use displayport?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f4e53c3d

It's cheaper and it's not worth paying for Perfect pixel, it's just their warranty they don't actually check it any more.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e876ecd0b

I can personally vouch for this one. Ordered last week delivered in 2 days.

Mine has no BLB, Dead Pixels, and OC's to 120hz so it's a great deal


----------



## peabody624

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meiosis*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f4e53c3d
> 
> It's cheaper and it's not worth paying for Perfect pixel, it's just their warranty they don't actually check it any more.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e876ecd0b
> 
> I can personally vouch for this one. Ordered last week delivered in 2 days.
> 
> Mine has no BLB, Dead Pixels, and OC's to 120hz so it's a great deal


Thank you for your response! Any difference between the two you linked besides glossy/matte? And isn't there a benefit to the multi10 version or having 4ms refresh rate?


----------



## meiosis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peabody624*
> 
> Thank you for your response! Any difference between the two you linked besides glossy/matte? And isn't there a benefit to the multi10 version or having 4ms refresh rate?


Matte = if you got too much light in your room, when I asked the sellers why it was more expensive they said it just cost a bit more to make. If you tend to have lights off or your room is naturally lit then glossy should be fine.

Apparently when overclocking the multi versions you get frame skipping which then negates the 4ms refresh rate.

And apparently the overclock on the multi models tends to be <100hz


----------



## peabody624

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meiosis*
> 
> Matte = if you got too much light in your room, when I asked the sellers why it was more expensive they said it just cost a bit more to make. If you tend to have lights off or your room is naturally lit then glossy should be fine.
> 
> Apparently when overclocking the multi versions you get frame skipping which then negates the 4ms refresh rate.
> 
> And apparently the overclock on the multi models tends to be <100hz


Thanks man, looks like I still have more reading to do but I'll prob go with the glossy you linked. Is the cable that comes with it fine for the best latency/color/etc then?


----------



## meiosis

It's a thick cable, can't really tell the difference haha. Seems high quality though


----------



## crazysoccerman

I've given up on buying a korean monitor. Glossy L02 or bust; I'm all about the color. Thanks to the contributors in this thread and Fabelhaft NCX for informing me before a purchase about the panel change in the glossy models.

Anyone in the US looking to sell a L02 glossy let me know.


----------



## peabody624

Good mount? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O1UYHG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3GY3SEFSOOQ4E&coliid=I1PEOD8FDRYUOU


----------



## piee

i heard the mattes are DL02
GLossy DL07
semi-glossy DL06


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Glad I could help. Always check OP


So the one listed with the single input DVI-D is possibly OC'able to 120hz, for sure 96hz without dropping frames? Am I reading that correctly?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> So the one listed with the single input DVI-D is possibly OC'able to 120hz, for sure 96hz without dropping frames? Am I reading that correctly?


You're never guaranteed how much it can OC, but 99% of the single input monitors can get to a minimum of 96Hz. So yes, you can pretty much expect a minimum of 96Hz.
Multi inputs cap at 85Hz. Older single input monitors for some reason have been able to clock higher to about 110-120Hz easily, the newer models not so much. Mine is probably 5-6 months old (relatively new) and it wont go past around 103-104Hz, so I'm just keeping it at 96Hz.


----------



## WhenKittensATK

You guys have any specific recommendations for dual monitor clamp mount? Not sure if I want a left/right or top/bottom layout. If it's left/right then it has to support rotate.


----------



## The Storm

I have owned mine since 2013, I got an X-star single input matte finish from dream seller. I can overclock it to 115hz but there is some color shift, turns to a purple like hue and it comes in around 110hz, I backed the overclock down to 105hz and its been running there ever since. So for the last 2 years its been overclocked every day, so if your worried about it hurting the panel, it hasnt affected mine at all. They are really nice monitors and I would recommend them to anyone. I have recently stepped up to the 32" 4k madness and its stunning. There will always be a place in my heart for these monitors.


----------



## Beekayy

I have got a Lenovo Y50 with GTX860m -4G vram. Would the monitor work for my laptop as an external monitor? The seller said it won't work on a laptop however, since the MULTI version does have a HDMI port, I don't see why I can't. So Please is there anyone could help me out with this question? I have done quite a lot of research on the Internet and still can't find the answer to this. (I have seem some recommended getting a desktop but I don't really want a get a desktop for the monitor because I just got the laptop not long ago and I'm pretty satisfied with the performance.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beekayy*
> 
> I have got a Lenovo Y50 with GTX860m -4G vram. Would the monitor work for my laptop as an external monitor? The seller said it won't work on a laptop however, since the MULTI version does have a HDMI port, I don't see why I can't. So Please is there anyone could help me out with this question? I have done quite a lot of research on the Internet and still can't find the answer to this. (I have seem some recommended getting a desktop but I don't really want a get a desktop for the monitor because I just got the laptop not long ago and I'm pretty satisfied with the performance.


Well, the GPU can handle it, I don't know what connections you have. My Asus laptop with the GTX860M doesn't have a DVI out. I use a powered DP to DL DVI and it works fine on a single input Qnix 2710. If you get a multi input, it should work fine as long as you have a way to connect it (HDMI I assume from your post).


----------



## Beekayy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Well, the GPU can handle it, I don't know what connections you have. My Asus laptop with the GTX860M doesn't have a DVI out. I use a powered DP to DL DVI and it works fine on a single input Qnix 2710. If you get a multi input, it should work fine as long as you have a way to connect it (HDMI I assume from your post).


Yes I do have and only have one HDMI port. The MULTI version has an HDMI 1.4 port so that I imagine it should work. I have ordered it and waiting for delivery. I will update my situation as time comes. Are u double screening with that monitor? What is your gaming experience with that screen in terms of FPS? Would double screening be too much for the graphic card?


----------



## jdstock76

I'm sold. Once my 770's sell I'll be dropping the hammer on one of these. Thanks all!


----------



## emsj86

Wish I would have jumped on theses earlier on. As with the drop of the new monitors 300 just doesn't seem as good anymore. 225-250 would be better. Acer 144hz 1440p xg270hu is 499 and has warrenty


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beekayy*
> 
> Yes I do have and only have one HDMI port. The MULTI version has an HDMI 1.4 port so that I imagine it should work. I have ordered it and waiting for delivery. I will update my situation as time comes. Are u double screening with that monitor? What is your gaming experience with that screen in terms of FPS? Would double screening be too much for the graphic card?


I'm actually triple screening with my gaming rig, on two GTX 780Ti's. I have not tried gaming on the laptop yet.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Wish I would have jumped on theses earlier on. As with the drop of the new monitors 300 just doesn't seem as good anymore. 225-250 would be better. Acer 144hz 1440p xg270hu is 499 and has warrenty


Ummm .... actually it's $799.

Linky


----------



## emsj86

Actually it's 500 your link is for the g sync IPS. They also have 144hz 1440p tn 8bit panel that has freesync for 499


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Actually it's 500 your link is for the g sync IPS. They also have 144hz 1440p tn 8bit panel that has freesync for 499


Link please?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Wish I would have jumped on theses earlier on. As with the drop of the new monitors 300 just doesn't seem as good anymore. 225-250 would be better. Acer 144hz 1440p xg270hu is 499 and has warrenty
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Link please?
Click to expand...

It's not too late ... cause owners of the Cat2B / QNIX-XStar and especially the ROG Swift will soon be selling their panels like hotcakes. All because of the Acer *XB*270HU ($800). Guys are now receiving their orders and preliminary results show it to be every bit as good as the tft review *HERE* ... You'll probably find QNIX/Cat2B with verified 120Hz overclocks / with no dead pixels for appx $250 all over the place in the coming months! Used Swifts for $350-$400? I would have ordered one already if it came with a Glossy Panel









The *XG*270HU *HERE* ... $600? still no MSRP from Acer, and the G-Sync module is "rumored?" to cost $200 so $800 "-" $200 = ??? ... *BUT* the XG is still a *TN PANEL* and will be just as crappy as the ROG Swift's PQ, unless it comes with a glossy option. Also "FreeSync" is just the standard DisplayPort AdaptiveSync protocol and hasn't really been tested out in the real world ... add with AMD's driver support over the last few years







do you really want to trust they'll get FreeSync right anytime soon? ... just sayin' ... it will come, but when will it be as stable and operate as well as G-Sync does NOW!


----------



## emsj86

Why would I lie. I'm not arguing just stating my opinion. I would t mind snagging a used qnix for 200-225 if possible. But here is the link see bottom of page acres page btw 499.99. http://us.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/series/xg


----------



## Rikuo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> It's not too late ... cause owners of the Cat2B / QNIX-XStar and especially the ROG Swift will soon be selling their panels like hotcakes. All because of the Acer *XB*270HU ($800). Guys are now receiving their orders and preliminary results show it to be every bit as good as the tft review *HERE* ... You'll probably find QNIX/Cat2B with verified 120Hz overclocks / with no dead pixels for appx $250 all over the place in the coming months! Used Swifts for $350-$400? I would have ordered one already if it came with a Glossy Panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *XG*270HU *HERE* ... $600? still no MSRP from Acer, and the G-Sync module is "rumored?" to cost $200 so $800 "-" $200 = ??? ... *BUT* the XG is still a *TN PANEL* and will be just as crappy as the ROG Swift's PQ, unless it comes with a glossy option. Also "FreeSync" is just the standard DisplayPort AdaptiveSync protocol and hasn't really been tested out in the real world ... add with AMD's driver support over the last few years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you really want to trust they'll get FreeSync right anytime soon? ... just sayin' ... it will come, but when will it be as stable and operate as well as G-Sync does NOW!


I actually just got my xb270hu today & Shortly after sold my 120hz Qnix to a guy i know for $200.

The XG version is confirmed at $499 & Will be free-sync not G-Sync.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Why would I lie. I'm not arguing just stating my opinion. I would t mind snagging a used qnix for 200-225 if possible. But here is the link see bottom of page acres page btw 499.99. http://us.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/series/xg


My sincere apologies, I never meant to insinuate your a liar ... I just couldn't find that Acer link ... Acer's site sure could use a facelift, especially with all the business coming their way since the Predator line's came out ...









+ Rep to you for the link









EDIT: I was thinking of *THIS* Asus Free-Sync monitor ... ASUS MG279Q 27-in 2560x1440 IPS 120 Hz - $599

Also I'd be very cautious of AMD's Free-Sync current state of development ... it is not near as refined/good as G-Sync ... If you don't have the GPU Horsepower to "always!" remain above appx 40fps you will not only have "tearing" but you will ALSO have frame "judder/stutter"








G-Sync has none of these problems/limitations!

Technically explained *



* ...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> I actually just got my xb270hu today & Shortly after sold my 120hz Qnix to a guy i know for $200.


Thoughts? Color from pls to tn? Feel of qnix 120hz vs 144hz on acer?


----------



## emsj86

Exactly what I said originally 499.99 and freesync


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> My sincere apologies, I never meant to insinuate your a liar ... I just couldn't find that Acer link ... Acer's site sure could use a facelift, especially with all the business coming their way since the Predator line's came out ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> + Rep to you for the link


Not a problem at all. I started to think maybe they changed the pricing. Makes ya think if they get few sync together that amd cards might not look half bad. Even without the g or free sync that's a pretty good price compared to other monitors. Anyone have experience with the new 144hz monitors and can compare to the qnix. As I'm thinking if just getting another 780 and buying a qnix or just skipping the other gpu and going for the top monitor


----------



## Rikuo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thoughts? Color from pls to tn? Feel of qnix 120hz vs 144hz on acer?


The XB270hu model is IPS 144hz, Not TN.

The xb270hu beats the qnix in pretty much every aspect. The colors are better, There's minimal ghosting & blur compared to the qnix.

The G-sync module is just to die for, It's great. Playing far cry 4 completely maxed out with g-sync 80-120fps /drool


----------



## Forceman

Only problem is it's $800. I can't wait until high refresh IPS monitors drop closer to $500. Not that I have any complaints with my QNIX-QX2710-Evolution, but I'd like to try G-sync/Freesync.

Edit: why did my phone autocorrect Qnix to QNIX-QX2710-Evolution?


----------



## Rikuo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Only problem is it's $800. I can't wait until high refresh IPS monitors drop closer to $500. Not that I have any complaints with my QNIX-QX2710-Evolution, but I'd like to try G-sync/Freesync.


I really liked my qnix, I had it for a few years.. But now after using this acer & g-sync i dont think i can go back.

Unfortunately the acer is quite expensive.. Doesnt help g-sync is an aditional $200~ Premium.. Hopefully they start mass producing the high refresh ips monitors.


----------



## crazysoccerman

anyone upgrading please considering selling their l02 glossy to me









anyone know if there are there any *affordable* monitors with more vibrant colors than it?


----------



## robb41488

Still just a craptasting TN panel at 499...

800 for the ips is still another 500 away Away from a new qnix. I believe this makes the Acer irrelevant in a way


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> The XB270hu model is IPS 144hz, Not TN.
> 
> The xb270hu beats the qnix in pretty much every aspect. The colors are better, There's minimal ghosting & blur compared to the qnix.
> 
> The G-sync module is just to die for, It's great. Playing far cry 4 completely maxed out with g-sync 80-120fps /drool


AH

I thought you had the tn freesync version.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> I really liked my qnix, I had it for a few years.. But now after using this acer & g-sync i dont think i can go back.
> 
> Unfortunately the acer is quite expensive.. Doesnt help g-sync is an aditional $200~ Premium.. Hopefully they start mass producing the high refresh ips monitors.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rikuo*
> 
> The XB270hu model is IPS 144hz, Not TN.
> 
> The xb270hu beats the qnix in pretty much every aspect. The colors are better, There's minimal ghosting & blur compared to the qnix.
> 
> *The G-sync module is just to die for*, It's great. Playing far cry 4 completely maxed out with g-sync 80-120fps /drool
Click to expand...

Yep G-Sync is proving to be all it's cracked up to be! A real game changer considering the cost of top of the line GPU(s) these days to power our high res screens w/high frame rates! I've been following the XB270HU thread *HERE* since it began 2.5mos ago. It is much like this thread in it's inception, recently moving as fast as 10-15 pages/day, yikes!

So here are some tips/suggestions if you want to see how the XB270HU stacks up against our beloved 120Hz overclockers and skip through all the boring "I ordered this and why hasn't my unit shipped yet etc etc"

1) Do an advanced search within the thread for user "Swolern" .... he received his XB yesterday and like many of us owns Korean 120Hz overclockers and has been through the Swift debacle. His comments are pretty much right on detail oriented! And I've been pretty specific with my inquiries.

2) I also like jcde7ago ... though his comments don't relate as directly a comparison to our 120Hz QNIX's.

3) Thread starter CallsignVega and HyperMatrix also have great knowledge/comments but haven't received their units yet, I can't wait to see if he attempts to remove the AG coating as he is famous for doing with the Dells and various other crapped out matte finish monitors









EDIT: This one post alone will answer most anyone's questions ... so for the short version/comparison go *HERE* +R









Also Rikuo +R, recently has good input to ?'s/comparisons that directly relate to us ... I'm starting to "Fall of the Fence"









EDIT: Some are thinking of cutting corners (saving $$$) with AMD's Free-Sync like *THIS* Asus Free-Sync monitor ...
*ASUS MG279Q 27-in 2560x1440 IPS 120 Hz - $599

**BUT* I'd be very cautious of AMD's Free-Sync current state of development ... it is not near as refined/good as G-Sync ...
If you don't have the GPU Horsepower to *"always!"* remain above appx 40fps you will not only have *"tearing"* but you will ALSO have frame *"judder/stutter"*








G-Sync has none of these problems/limitations! Time to bite the bullet, although I hate to admit it (had many an ATI/AMD GPU) Nvidia has AMD "By-the-Balls"









Technically explained *



* ...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Only problem is it's $800. I can't wait until high refresh IPS monitors drop closer to $500. Not that I have any complaints with my QNIX-QX2710-Evolution, but I'd like to try G-sync/Freesync.
> 
> Edit: why did my phone autocorrect Qnix to QNIX-QX2710-Evolution?


There is no better deal on the planet than a 120Hz QNIX/Cat2B when it comes to price/performance, and there may never be again! ... Yes $800 is high, but not really for the top of the line/tech gaming monitor. If Asus had the semi-exclusive release of this monitor like they did with the Swift then I bet it would have been $1000+ ... Thinking back to my all time favorite monitor the Sony W900 24" CRT it released # appx $2200. I bought mine used. If the XB came out with a Glossy model I might have broken my own rules and paid MSRP.


----------



## QuantumPion

Just got a XB270HU myself, coming from an X-star DP2710 DVI, I'm a little disappointed in the XB270HU. It has significant IPS glow which makes playing dark games/movies have pretty poor contrast. Compared to the X-star, the X-Star has clearly much better contrast and blacks. The overall color quality is about the same. I'm on the fence whether to return the XB270HU or not as 144 hz g-sync is super awesome and the monitor has no other downsides or problems.


----------



## hagtek

Thought I'd chime in.

I just received my Qnix QX2710 Evolution II SE Matte monitor.

I unknowingly ordered the SE, I didn't notice the poorly spaced "SE" in the title when I saved it on my watch list. I would have ordered the non SE version if I did.

As it turns out there are no issues with this monitor at all, so far...............

No dead/stuck pixels, great color, great contrast, no flicker that I can pick up and minimal light bleed. I couldn't be happier with the purchase.

I would highly recommend it to those on the fence.

Now, not to be a negative nancy but I am more impressed with the 21:9 monitors than the high res hoopla.

Curious note, Aida64 id's the panel as having a 2011 date of manufacture. Not sure if that's accurate or not but interesting that these are/were just sitting around.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuantumPion*
> 
> Just got a XB270HU myself, coming from an X-star DP2710 DVI, I'm a little disappointed in the XB270HU. It has significant IPS glow which makes playing dark games/movies have pretty poor contrast. Compared to the X-star, the X-Star has clearly much better contrast and blacks. The overall color quality is about the same. I'm on the fence whether to return the XB270HU or not as 144 hz g-sync is super awesome and the monitor has no other downsides or problems.


Well your not alone *see HERE* Dren72 comments, this is also a big concern for me forking out $800 ... I've seen this problem before with the panel manufacturer, AU Optronics AHVA (IPS-type panel). I think they are the worst and don't compare to LG and Samsung









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> Thought I'd chime in.
> 
> I just received my Qnix QX2710 Evolution II SE Matte monitor.
> 
> I unknowingly ordered the SE, I didn't notice the poorly spaced "SE" in the title when I saved it on my watch list. I would have ordered the non SE version if I did.
> 
> As it turns out there are no issues with this monitor at all, so far...............
> 
> No dead/stuck pixels, great color, great contrast, no flicker that I can pick up and minimal light bleed. I couldn't be happier with the purchase.
> 
> I would highly recommend it to those on the fence.
> 
> Now, not to be a negative nancy but I am more impressed with the 21:9 monitors than the high res hoopla.
> 
> Curious note, Aida64 id's the panel as having a 2011 date of manufacture. Not sure if that's accurate or not but interesting that these are/were just sitting around.


More details please ... ordering link/cost/supplier ... how does it overclock?
As I've stated many times before *HERE*, it seems people make to big of a deal out of the "SE" designation as I've seen many more units that are just fine as opposed to lesser quality ones








You'll change your mind once you game more or even work on the desktop with higher refresh rates ... once you go 96Hz-120Hz+ you'll NEVER be able to go back to 60Hz again


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well your not alone *see HERE* Dren72 comments, this is also a big concern for me forking out $800 ... I've seen this problem before with the panel manufacturer, AU Optronics AHVA (IPS-type panel). I think they are the worst and don't compare to LG and Samsung
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details please ... ordering link/cost/supplier ... how does it overclock?
> As I've stated many times before *HERE*, it seems people make to big of a deal out of the "SE" designation as I've seen many more units that are just fine as opposed to lesser quality ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll change your mind once you game more or even work on the desktop with higher refresh rates ... once you go 96Hz-120Hz+ you'll NEVER be able to go back to 60Hz again


I agree with you completely on both of your points. Many people seem to be making out well on the SE panels.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> I agree with you completely on both of your points. Many people seem to be making out well on the SE panels.


i got a good SE too. mine was from green-sum with a pixel perfect option. i thought that was strange but couldnt pass up the price

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> i got a good SE too. mine was from green-sum with a pixel perfect option. i thought that was strange but couldnt pass up the price
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Me too


----------



## SSJVegeta

It's a shame there is such a difference in colour / vibrancy between the older QNIX QX2710's with the DL02 panel and the newer ones with the DL07 panel as I was set on buying one.






Any sellers on eBay that still sell the QNIX QX2710 new with the DL02 panel?


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey guys, i have 2 questions. and they are both related to cables.
1: can the quality of the cable affect OC? I have the stock dvi cable that came with it.I understand it depends on the actual monitor, but does cable have a role in too?

2: can the cable affect SLI? because i have 2x GTX 580s and when i SLI them, any game i run is an issue no matter what game. i know it isnt any other component because i tried another pc.


----------



## BeatsOfAngel

Bought this beast for SGD305, got perfect pixel and no BLB, OC at 110 max. Best 305 ever spent. My 22" AOC monitor became second monitor, and I've been studying while gaming, cos why not? GTX 970 running Farcry4 very high, smoother than my skin. Only thing that can beat this is gsync I guess.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey guys, i have 2 questions. and they are both related to cables.
> 1: can the quality of the cable affect OC? I have the stock dvi cable that came with it.I understand it depends on the actual monitor, but does cable have a role in too?
> 
> 2: can the cable affect SLI? because i have 2x GTX 580s and when i SLI them, any game i run is an issue no matter what game. i know it isnt any other component because i tried another pc.


1. Maybe. Some say yes, some say nnly way to know for sure in your case is to try it. I get the same results regardless of which cable I use.

2.No, if you are having issues, especially if it's only when you SLI, it's probably not the DVI cable.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeatsOfAngel*
> 
> 
> Bought this beast for SGD305, got perfect pixel and no BLB, OC at 110 max. Best 305 ever spent. My 22" AOC monitor became second monitor, and I've been studying while gaming, cos why not? GTX 970 running Farcry4 very high, smoother than my skin. Only thing that can beat this is gsync I guess.


I have an overclocked 970 also... was VERY impressed with how much horsepower it pushes into these things! 1440p is a lot of pixels haha


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> I have an overclocked 970 also... was VERY impressed with how much horsepower it pushes into these things! 1440p is a lot of pixels haha


add me to that list. i have a 970G1 and this thing is butter with it. 96hz OC on alot of my games getting over 100fps with msaa turned off


----------



## $k1||z_r0k

FYI: the new Nvidia and AMD 300 series cards will not support DVI only Qnix/Xstar monitors...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1549399/new-upcoming-video-cards-will-only-have-dp-ports/0_100


----------



## Native89

Do you have a source for this?

Ordered a Qnix yesterday in anticipation of the new cards and this would be a major bummer.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$k1||z_r0k*
> 
> FYI: the new Nvidia and AMD 300 series cards will not support DVI only Qnix/Xstar monitors...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1549399/new-upcoming-video-cards-will-only-have-dp-ports/0_100


No way that's true. HDMI at least, and I seriously doubt they'll drop DVI either. Way too many HDMI/DVI monitors in the wild, and still being sold.


----------



## d4rkr4in

Just got this monitor for $218 from Craigslist, no dead or stuck pixels, but ended up being the multi-input version

Got home, literally have spent the whole afternoon figuring out why the heck won't the display work with my 7990 (loads up bios no problem, Windows logo no problem, just can't view anything >1680x1050

Ends up, I have a single link DVI cable.

Headed to Fry's Electronics today to get a bloody dual link DVI cable

now it works great and I'm able to set the Catalyst profile up to 120hz but there's mad frame skipping I believe

what's the max refresh rate for multi-input QX2710s? I did a quick search and saw 85hz, is that true?

TIA


----------



## meiosis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d4rkr4in*
> 
> Just got this monitor for $218 from Craigslist, no dead or stuck pixels, but ended up being the multi-input version
> 
> Got home, literally have spent the whole afternoon figuring out why the heck won't the display work with my 7990 (loads up bios no problem, Windows logo no problem, just can't view anything >1680x1050
> 
> Ends up, I have a single link DVI cable.
> 
> Headed to Fry's Electronics today to get a bloody dual link DVI cable
> 
> now it works great and I'm able to set the Catalyst profile up to 120hz but there's mad frame skipping I believe
> 
> what's the max refresh rate for multi-input QX2710s? I did a quick search and saw 85hz, is that true?
> 
> TIA


Supposedly but it seems YMMV, 85 is safe.

Sounds like a sick deal haha


----------



## d4rkr4in

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meiosis*
> 
> Supposedly but it seems YMMV, 85 is safe.
> 
> Sounds like a sick deal haha


It's one hell of an upgrade from my Dell P2412h TN panel, but now my wallet is literally empty









Well worth it though, I think I could use this monitor for years to come. Will definitely help in programming, gaming, image editing, and all the crazy stuff I do on my computer haha

Going to try 85hz and see if there's any frame skipping, thanks for the help!


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$k1||z_r0k*
> 
> FYI: the new Nvidia and AMD 300 series cards will not support DVI only Qnix/Xstar monitors...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1549399/new-upcoming-video-cards-will-only-have-dp-ports/0_100


April fools is passed few days ago.
But supposing that it is true...
Nvidia side, the actual GTX based on Kepler/Maxwell are really good and strong for play at 2560 x 1440(my GTX 780 @ 1202 MHz is very good) and fully support DVI port, than isn't necessary change with future Pascal that will arrive middle/late 2016 and also the new DX12 will guarantee long life of this card(Kepler/Maxwell).
AMD side, sound is the same at Nvidia, Hawaii is fine like Kepler or better a this resolution and the new strong R9 390X(and minor sisters) will be same at Maxwell, also note that the pictures of WCE cooler of newer R9 390X have one DVI port.

Than nice try!


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d4rkr4in*
> 
> Just got this monitor for $218 from Craigslist, no dead or stuck pixels, but ended up being the multi-input version
> 
> Got home, literally have spent the whole afternoon figuring out why the heck won't the display work with my 7990 (loads up bios no problem, Windows logo no problem, just can't view anything >1680x1050
> 
> Ends up, I have a single link DVI cable.
> 
> Headed to Fry's Electronics today to get a bloody dual link DVI cable
> 
> now it works great and I'm able to set the Catalyst profile up to 120hz but there's mad frame skipping I believe
> 
> what's the max refresh rate for multi-input QX2710s? I did a quick search and saw 85hz, is that true?
> 
> TIA


Yep, 85Hz is the top end for the multi-inputs. Not sure even that's guaranteed...


----------



## equivilency

Mine only overclocked to 98hz (dual dvi version). Guess I got an unlucky draw. Anything higher causes artifacting







Followed the guide too. Oh well. Didn't have money for an expensive ass monitor and this thing has a beautiful picture.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$k1||z_r0k*
> 
> FYI: the new Nvidia and AMD 300 series cards will not support DVI only Qnix/Xstar monitors...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1549399/new-upcoming-video-cards-will-only-have-dp-ports/0_100


HeeHee I see what your trying to accomplish







... you should link peeps into where they can voice their concerns








But you are at least 2-3 generations to early, your friends are definitely not in the know? Even if it were true, custom PCB's from vendors with Dual DVI would sell like hotcakes if all reference cards had no D-DVi









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d4rkr4in*
> 
> Just got this monitor for $218 from Craigslist, no dead or stuck pixels, but ended up being the multi-input version
> 
> Got home, literally have spent the whole afternoon figuring out why the heck won't the display work with my 7990 (loads up bios no problem, Windows logo no problem, just can't view anything >1680x1050
> 
> Ends up, I have a single link DVI cable.
> 
> Headed to Fry's Electronics today to get a bloody dual link DVI cable
> 
> now it works great and I'm able to set the Catalyst profile up to 120hz but there's mad frame skipping I believe
> 
> what's the max refresh rate for multi-input QX2710s? I did a quick search and saw 85hz, is that true?
> 
> TIA
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> Yep, 85Hz is the top end for the multi-inputs. Not sure even that's guaranteed...
Click to expand...

Heck of a deal! Was that P/P or a Refurbished unit, can you link your purchase?

Yep Seafodder is right +R ... see more info *HERE* ... report back with details and pics (frameskipping) and I'll link you in









Also note 1440p/IPS @ even 85Hz is very nice, but beware if your sensitive to input lag for high-twitch FPS, as there is a noticeable difference compared to the single-input


----------



## $k1||z_r0k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> HeeHee I see what your trying to accomplish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... you should link peeps into where they can voice their concerns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you are at least 2-3 generations to early, your friends are definitely not in the know? Even if it were true, custom PCB's from vendors with Dual DVI would sell like hotcakes if all reference cards had no D-DVi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heck of a deal! Was that P/P or a Refurbished unit, can you link your purchase?
> 
> Yep Seafodder is right +R ... see more info *HERE* ... report back with details and pics (frameskipping) and I'll link you in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also note 1440p/IPS @ even 85Hz is very nice, but beware if your sensitive to input lag for high-twitch FPS, as there is a noticeable difference compared to the single-input


this is no joke... the next-gen graphics cards (and i'm talking the cards on roadmap beyond Titan X. Titan X was just released, the ones DP only are next-gen) have only four standard DP ports (not mini-DP). i think the reason they do four DP ports is because 5K monitors need two 1.2 DP input ports in order to run, so four DP ports are needed for dual-monitor configuration as the bare minimum. and the rest of the space taking up the back of the card needs to be ventilation for the fan(s).

new ASICs will probably even include the newly announced 1.3 DP spec. and again, only DP... no DVI or HDMI.

if you want you don't have to believe me and treat this as rumor, but you can refer to my post later when you find out later this year after the new cards are revealed.


----------



## yoonie

Just picked one up. Used, local area, matte w/ no dead pixels. Got it to 110 Hz with just the tightened timing driver from the other thread- great picture, color, and general performance. 120 Hz has minor flickering and a bit of green artifacting- I suspect I could go ~115 but I don't wanna futz around with it yet. Unfortunately, the $6 DVI cable from monoprice has $8 dollar shipping, so I'm gonna hold off till I save a bit more for a monitor mount (the stock stand is as bad as advertised) and order both at the same time. Hopefully the cable will get me 120 since it seems pretty close anyway.

Anyone have any advice on quick fixes that might get me those last few Hz?

edit: nvm, slight occasional flickering at 110. I'm guessing it'd be fine at a few Hz lower, but makes it less likely I'd be able to hit 120 with no problems.


----------



## sinnedone

In case anyone has been looking for the glossy version there are some on eBay for 259 free shipping in the US.

They appear to be the single input dvd SE edition glossy.

Here is a link:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=131425259171&alt=web

There are some mattes as well around the same price.

Lowest prices I've seen in a while. Probably just getting rid of stock for the new stuff incoming.


----------



## v1rtuall

Hi everyone, I got an xstar dp2710 today. At first it looked pretty good, no dead pixels and not too much backlight bleed.
but i have one big problem. There is a really big line of pixels that are darker than the rest on certain color ranges.




It gets worse when i increase the refresh rate, and gets less when i change the settings in cru(from lcd-standard to lcd-reduced)
Does anyone have any idea what causes this and if there's anything i can do to fix it?

edit: it's also there at 60 hz


----------



## OkanG

Hmm, is there any downside to having two single monitor stands as opposed to a singlevdual monitor stand? I already have one, and being able to only take a single monitor to LANs etc is a big plus for me


----------



## OkanG

Just tried tightening my timings. Damn, my monitor won't go past 100Hz no matter what I try


----------



## Levelog

I'm really happy with my Qnix, especially after seeing some of the ones in this thread. It's got I'd say an average amount of backlight bleed for these (just a bit in 2 corners, a slight hint along part of one side), no dead pixels, no flicker, and I'm at 96hz no problem. Haven't tried higher though, my 680 can only push so much. I'd love to pick up 2 more... if they drop in price any more it might be a legitimate option. If I could get a pair for under $500 I'd probably do it. (I just don't have enough DVI ports I guess with only one card)


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levelog*
> 
> I'm really happy with my Qnix, especially after seeing some of the ones in this thread. It's got I'd say an average amount of backlight bleed for these (just a bit in 2 corners, a slight hint along part of one side), no dead pixels, no flicker, and I'm at 96hz no problem. Haven't tried higher though, my 680 can only push so much. I'd love to pick up 2 more... if they drop in price any more it might be a legitimate option. If I could get a pair for under $500 I'd probably do it. (I just don't have enough DVI ports I guess with only one card)


an active display port adapter would help you add a 3rd.

some of the "off-grade" models are around 200 each on fleabay. or you could wait till they drop to 259/269 again









this setup would put you right at $500 for 2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e998e4ea3


----------



## MonChoon

I am currently using two Dell E228WFP Monitors, 22" widescreen 1680 x 1050 at 60 Hz. I am looking to get either one or two new monitors to replace these. I am interested in the 1440p business that is going around. Either I can buy one of these monitors for a decent price or get two if it would be a good deal. My current video card is a GeForce GTX 770. I play several games at the moment, H1Z1, Reign of Kings, Payday 2, and League of Legends which is the only game that I play competitively, so really if its about performance its the only one that I care about. I am also a streamer so it is extremely convenient to have a second monitor, but I dont mind using the ones I currently have as secondary monitors.

The interesting part is this, my girlfriend is Korean and will be going to Korea in June. I have read somewhat about the Korean monitors and all of that hype, overclocking them for better refresh rates and what not. I know people were just buying these monitors from eBay stores that had people importing them from Korea itself. My question is, would I be able to save myself enough money and buy a very nice quality monitor if my girlfriend bought it and brought it back from Korea herself? Her entire family is going as well, so 2 parents and a brother, if that might help with bringing two of them back.

I am not very researched in this area on prices and that whole business and was hoping that somebody on this forum might be. Is it worth my while to even bother looking into this or should I just get a BenQ or Acer or something that happens to go on sale.


----------



## piee

to much hassel just ship it free shipping anyway unless you get one for 100 bucks , 249 bucks aint bad, still best deal for PLS 2k mine OC to 119hz looks great, smooth with gtx980 shipped no problem USPS picked it up at the post office when arrived trackable. They wont have to worry about carrying a monitor around and enjoy trip GOD BLESS.


----------



## MonChoon

Yeah I can imagine the hassle, wondering if I should even bother with a Korean one at all. I am in Canada by the way, so its a bit more expensive for me here and shipping costs a bit more.


----------



## $k1||z_r0k

i went looking for a 1440p Korean monitor at the local computer shops when i was in Seoul, S. Korea a few months ago and couldn't find one... they had 4k/uhd, but were expensive


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonChoon*
> 
> I am currently using two Dell E228WFP Monitors, 22" widescreen 1680 x 1050 at 60 Hz. I am looking to get either one or two new monitors to replace these. I am interested in the 1440p business that is going around. Either I can buy one of these monitors for a decent price or get two if it would be a good deal. My current video card is a GeForce GTX 770. I play several games at the moment, H1Z1, Reign of Kings, Payday 2, and League of Legends which is the only game that I play competitively, so really if its about performance its the only one that I care about. I am also a streamer so it is extremely convenient to have a second monitor, but I dont mind using the ones I currently have as secondary monitors.
> 
> The interesting part is this, my girlfriend is Korean and will be going to Korea in June. I have read somewhat about the Korean monitors and all of that hype, overclocking them for better refresh rates and what not. I know people were just buying these monitors from eBay stores that had people importing them from Korea itself. My question is, would I be able to save myself enough money and buy a very nice quality monitor if my girlfriend bought it and brought it back from Korea herself? Her entire family is going as well, so 2 parents and a brother, if that might help with bringing two of them back.
> 
> I am not very researched in this area on prices and that whole business and was hoping that somebody on this forum might be. Is it worth my while to even bother looking into this or should I just get a BenQ or Acer or something that happens to go on sale.


youll be amazed at the desktop space gained by going to 1440p. this one monitor will actually have almost as much working space as both of your screens

1050x2=2100 where one screen is now going to be 1440.

your 770 should be more than enough to play most of these games on high if not ultra. i have a 970 and my card barely struggles to hit 96fps (vsync locked) with msaa turned completly off. If i turn msaa4 or msaa8 on i get about 75fps

also i agree. just have one shipped. these things are bigger than you think and it would be a hassle to carry it on a plane


----------



## Kenjiwing

Does anyone have a dead qnix they want to part out? I have one that the board/connectors are broken on. As soon as I switch the box from my other monitor it works fine. Please let me know as id love to bring my qnix back to life.


----------



## AnkerEde

Hi
I have a 27 inch qnix xstar that can be overclocked to 110hz without any flickering. I did with my gtx 770 and oced via evga precision x.

Now i changed to amds r9 290 and tryed to oc my monitor. First i patched the driver and then i used cru to apply the new 110hz profile. After restart the 110hz profile is active, but when i switch to windows monitor and have a look at the profile, it still has only one profile, the 60hz one. Testufo says my monitor is running with 110hz. Catalyst control center also says 110hz. But bf4 only says 60hz.

Im using catalyst 15.3 beta and latest amd patcher/cru.

Is there anything else i have to do in cru?
Maybe extension blocks?
Is there a away to measure refresh rates ingame (hz, not fps)?
It wouldnt bother me if it says 60hz but it is really running 110hz.


----------



## Urufu_Shinjiro

Picked up two qnix models on newegg, regular for about $280 and the HDMI model for $340. Had to get hdmi for my GTX570, no DVI-D. Love it! Had issues with timing at first but resolved it.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey Guys quick question:

I have two QX2710's (overclockable version without HDMI), and recently sold my GPUs and don't plan to get new ones until the 390x comes along. Now my question is, is it possible to use a DVI to HDMI cable to connect the monitors to my motherboard to run off of iGPU? I'm using a G1 Sniper 5 and 4790k. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## robb41488

nope specs dont matter, hdmi to dvi only supports single link dvi as a straight through


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> nope specs dont matter, hdmi to dvi only supports single link dvi as a straight through


Thanks for your quick reply, so basically no dice? How about DVI to DP?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Thanks for your quick reply, so basically no dice? How about DVI to DP?


the only way to do DP to dual-dvi is an active adapter. but those cost over 100 and are barely economical to buy


----------



## OkanG

Does it matter whether the monitor is hooked up with DVI-I and DVI-D? Will it affect an overclock?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Does it matter whether the monitor is hooked up with DVI-I and DVI-D? Will it affect an overclock?


No, it won't matter.


----------



## fullban

hi I have a qnix overclocked to 120hz and I am wanting to add another 2 more for eyefinity

I have r9 290 crossfire

I would like to no if I could [email protected]/attach all 3 of them via the x2 cards? or would I need anything else

thanks


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> No, it won't matter.


I've always wondered whether my card alone would be compatible with two of these puppies, thanks


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> hi I have a qnix overclocked to 120hz and I am wanting to add another 2 more for eyefinity
> 
> I have r9 290 crossfire
> 
> I would like to no if I could [email protected]/attach all 3 of them via the x2 cards? or would I need anything else
> 
> thanks


For eyefinity you have to have all monitors connected to the same video card. So you would have to connect at least one of the monitors through a DP connection. So I don't think you could run them at 120Hz. The powered adapter (DP to DVI) will probably limit you to around 85 Hz.


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> For eyefinity you have to have all monitors connected to the same video card. So you would have to connect at least one of the monitors through a DP connection. So I don't think you could run them at 120Hz. The powered adapter (DP to DVI) will probably limit you to around 85 Hz.


urgh that's a bit of a bummer aint it.

thanks for reply


----------



## AnkerEde

Hi
I have a 27 inch qnix xstar that can be overclocked to 110hz without any flickering. I did with my gtx 770 and oced via evga precision x.

Now i changed to amds r9 290 and tryed to oc my monitor. First i patched the driver and then i used cru to apply the new 110hz profile. After restart the 110hz profile is active, but when i switch to windows monitor and have a look at the profile, it still has only one profile, the 60hz one. Testufo says my monitor is running with 110hz. Catalyst control center also says 110hz. But bf4 only says 60hz.

Im using catalyst 15.3 beta and latest amd patcher/cru.

Is there anything else i have to do in cru?
Maybe extension blocks?
Is there a away to measure refresh rates ingame (hz, not fps)?
It wouldnt bother me if it says 60hz but it is really running 110hz.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> hi I have a qnix overclocked to 120hz and I am wanting to add another 2 more for eyefinity
> 
> I have r9 290 crossfire
> 
> I would like to no if I could [email protected]/attach all 3 of them via the x2 cards? or would I need anything else
> 
> thanks


to add youll also be limited to a 96hz reliable OC on the newer monitors

i just got one and it got to 110hz and started the green line bull crap, so i backed it off to 96hz stable


----------



## fullban

try these tighter settings in cru, I could only achieve 110hz until I changed settings also try different cables
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> to add youll also be limited to a 96hz reliable OC on the newer monitors
> 
> i just got one and it got to 110hz and started the green line bull crap, so i backed it off to 96hz stable


----------



## OkanG

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e998e4ea3

19% off boys! I'm getting another one, no question!


----------



## cryticfarm

My X-star just crapped out. I have the same problem as this guy from years ago (won't turn on after I woke up and tried to turn it on, no red standby light,, clicking noise):
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pk7677*
> 
> Well it looks like my screen has died after couple month of use. I went on vacation last week, unplugged everything came back and BAM! black screen of death. It also makes a continues clicking noise when its on. There is no light to indicate if the screen is on or off, no red or blue lights, just black screen and clicking sound looping over and over again. When I bought mine there was no warranty so I'm kinda screwed. I do loved it while it lasted, before I throw this thing away is there anything else I should try and maybe just maybe bring this sucker back to life?


I've enjoyed this display for 1.5 years, but I'm not sure what to do now. I can't tell if it's a monitor or power supply problem... and I'm surprised this happened to anyone else yet. Actually, I was running this monitor at 110hz for ~16 hours a day with maximum brightness (I think most people don't use max brightness), so maybe power required for full brightness is what broke it. In any case, I'm not sure what to do now, whether there is a fix or replacement part I can use, or if I should just trash it.

IN the latter case, is there any good monitors to replace this monitor with besides another Qnix or x-star? Maybe the monitor landscape has changed in the last year?


----------



## Jesse36m3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cryticfarm*
> 
> My X-star just crapped out. I have the same problem as this guy from years ago (won't turn on after I woke up and tried to turn it on, no red standby light,, clicking noise):
> I've enjoyed this display for 1.5 years, but I'm not sure what to do now. I can't tell if it's a monitor or power supply problem... and I'm surprised this happened to anyone else yet. Actually, I was running this monitor at 110hz for ~16 hours a day with maximum brightness (I think most people don't use max brightness), so maybe power required for full brightness is what broke it. In any case, I'm not sure what to do now, whether there is a fix or replacement part I can use, or if I should just trash it.
> 
> IN the latter case, is there any good monitors to replace this monitor with besides another Qnix or x-star? Maybe the monitor landscape has changed in the last year?


If you're into that whole g-sync/freesync thing, there have been quite a few new 1440p monitors released lately - IPS and 144hz to boot. Price is killer though, you could buy 2-3 new QNIX for that price.


----------



## cryticfarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jesse36m3*
> 
> If you're into that whole g-sync/freesync thing, there have been quite a few new 1440p monitors released lately - IPS and 144hz to boot. Price is killer though, you could buy 2-3 new QNIX for that price.


Sorry, seems far too expensive. Honestly i'm already disheartened that due to the drop of canadian dollar, x-star costs like 70 dollars more than when I originally bought it. However, i'm really hesitant on going korean again due to this experience. I actually shelled out more than I normally would for buying this monitor because I was assuming it would last a long time (3-4 years atleast), and now i'm pretty disappointed.


----------



## fullban

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f

is it worth getting an off grade?? im thinking about ordering x2 of these only £142 each!!

can the "defects" if any be fixed I don't mind taking them apart?


----------



## cryticfarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cryticfarm*
> 
> My X-star just crapped out. I have the same problem as this guy from years ago (won't turn on after I woke up and tried to turn it on, no red standby light,, clicking noise):
> I've enjoyed this display for 1.5 years, but I'm not sure what to do now. I can't tell if it's a monitor or power supply problem... and I'm surprised this happened to anyone else yet. Actually, I was running this monitor at 110hz for ~16 hours a day with maximum brightness (I think most people don't use max brightness), so maybe power required for full brightness is what broke it. In any case, I'm not sure what to do now, whether there is a fix or replacement part I can use, or if I should just trash it.
> 
> IN the latter case, is there any good monitors to replace this monitor with besides another Qnix or x-star? Maybe the monitor landscape has changed in the last year?


Updating with new information:
I've noticed that when I don't plug the power adapter into the monitor, the green LED on the adapater is on (continuously), but when I plug in my monitor, the LED flicker, and I noticed this LED flicker matches the clicking noise that the monitor is making (presumably this clicking is from the monitor speaker. Does anyone know if this suggest my power adapter is broken, not the monitor itself?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cryticfarm*
> 
> Updating with new information:
> I've noticed that when I don't plug the power adapter into the monitor, the green LED on the adapater is on (continuously), but when I plug in my monitor, the LED flicker, and I noticed this LED flicker matches the clicking noise that the monitor is making (presumably this clicking is from the monitor speaker. Does anyone know if this suggest my power adapter is broken, not the monitor itself?


since i work in repairing electronics i would be inclined to try a new power supply before anything. sometimes electrolytic capacitors fail and will almost act like they are shorting out once heated up.

i cant tell you how many times power supplies "power up ok" but once an actual load is placed on the output it drops voltage to an unusable range.

the good thing is a new supply is "only" 20 bucks


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f
> 
> is it worth getting an off grade?? im thinking about ordering x2 of these only £142 each!!
> 
> can the "defects" if any be fixed I don't mind taking them apart?


from reading the description it sounds like a gamble. if your even remotely anal about screen quality i would avoid this.

"Off-grade panels have some defects on the panel can include very small scratches, tint spots, defective pixels or backlight bleeding."

so itll be a serious dice roll


----------



## cryticfarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> since i work in repairing electronics i would be inclined to try a new power supply before anything. sometimes electrolytic capacitors fail and will almost act like they are shorting out once heated up.
> 
> i cant tell you how many times power supplies "power up ok" but once an actual load is placed on the output it drops voltage to an unusable range.
> 
> the good thing is a new supply is "only" 20 bucks


Yeah, I just came across some posts with people saying the same thing about the qnix power supply (with the blinking). I'll for sure try this solution first. It just sucks I don't have something with a similar voltage to check if it works right now. I guess I'm on my 1280x1024 for a few weeks.

Cheers


----------



## Roland2

If you search this thread, you should be able to find replacement power supply to search for. You can order it from ebay, and get if fairly quick.

Either of these should work. I think I use the first one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?rmvSB=true

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-CWT-12V-5A-60W-AC-Adapter-For-LCD-Monitor-and-TVs/320643492261?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29993%26meid%3Df635f622af674283830f33641129a032%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D390276288001


----------



## cryticfarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> If you search this thread, you should be able to find replacement power supply to search for. You can order it from ebay, and get if fairly quick.
> 
> Either of these should work. I think I use the first one:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?rmvSB=true
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-CWT-12V-5A-60W-AC-Adapter-For-LCD-Monitor-and-TVs/320643492261?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29993%26meid%3Df635f622af674283830f33641129a032%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D390276288001


Thanks a lot for the links. I think i'll be buying:
http://www.amazon.ca/Intocircuit-Monitor-Adapter-Power-Supply/dp/B0023Y9EQC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428699707&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=intocircuit+12+volt

I'm guessing the grounding prong is actually unnecessary even though there is one on my original adapter.


----------



## Crouch

I ordered the Qnix QX2710 and it's gonna arrive on the 16th. I'm really excited! Can't wait till I start gaming on a much better monitor than the one I'm currently using (A crappy TN samsung monitor)







Hopefully I'll be able to OC it to 120Hz but I'm fine with 96Hz and with the right ICC profile, I'm hoping I won't lose much of the image quality


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crouch*
> 
> I ordered the Qnix QX2710 and it's gonna arrive on the 16th. I'm really excited! Can't wait till I start gaming on a much better monitor than the one I'm currently using (A crappy TN samsung monitor)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'll be able to OC it to 120Hz but I'm fine with 96Hz and with the right ICC profile, I'm hoping I won't lose much of the image quality


Don't hold your breath on 120Hz, or even 110Hz. Excellent chance you'll hit 96Hz though. Honestly, I can't tell a major difference between 96 and 110 except in games, but you need serious horsepower to push that.


----------



## ukic

I noticed after overclocking my monitor at 96Hz, one of my gpus is stuck at 501 / 1500. Any solution to this? For temp solution, I just switch back and forth. 60Hz when not gaming and 96Hz when gaming. Hopefully switching back and forth is not bad for my monitor







Using QX320 here.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> I noticed after overclocking my monitor at 96Hz, one of my gpus is stuck at 501 / 1500. Any solution to this? For temp solution, I just switch back and forth. 60Hz when not gaming and 96Hz when gaming. Hopefully switching back and forth is not bad for my monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using QX320 here.


This is a known AMD GPU issue. I know it has been discussed here, so you may want to do a search.


----------



## The Storm

I would like to pick up a couple more X-Star's matte finish for 3 monitors but I'm afraid they won't Mach my current one. I have owned it for almost 2 years and from what I've read they have changed the panels? Is this true?


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> This is a known AMD GPU issue. I know it has been discussed here, so you may want to do a search.


I did and only solution I found was setting two profiles (2D/3D) using msi ab from 3-4 years go.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> I would like to pick up a couple more X-Star's matte finish for 3 monitors but I'm afraid they won't Mach my current one. I have owned it for almost 2 years and from what I've read they have changed the panels? Is this true?


From what I have read, they have changed the panels. What is worse, even with the same panels, they won't necessarily look the same. I bought my three in two orders. First one, then after I received it and liked it, I bought two more about a month later. The two I bought together match, but the don't match the first one. If matching is a high priority, I would recommend buying three from the same dealer at the same time. Even this of course will not guarantee they will match.


----------



## OkanG

How much of a difference is there? Isn't it fixable with some color calibration?

I bought one about 6-7 months ago, and I just ordered the same kind from the same dealer. I can post some pictures/comments when I get it.


----------



## inertianinja

Is there a model that has switchable HDMI (w/ scaler) and DP/DVI?

I have a QNIX 27'' DVI display, and I'm thinking of adding a second one...but I'd like to be able to connect my PS4 to it.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> How much of a difference is there? Isn't it fixable with some color calibration?
> 
> I bought one about 6-7 months ago, and I just ordered the same kind from the same dealer. I can post some pictures/comments when I get it.


My first monitor is slightly greyer then the other two. It is correctable with color calibration, but that does no good when in surround, which is my "Normal" mode of operation.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> My first monitor is slightly greyer then the other two. It is correctable with color calibration, but that does no good when in surround, which is my "Normal" mode of operation.


Why not?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Why not?


You can't color correct individual monitors when you are in surround. It is seen by the system as one monitor.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> You can't color correct individual monitors when you are in surround. It is seen by the system as one monitor.


Ah ok


----------



## ukic

Question about overclocking: Desktop is set to 2560x1440 @ 60Hz. When playing Battlefield Hardline, settings are set to 2560x1440 @ 96Hz. Is the game really running at 96Hz? or I have to set desktop to 96Hz first then play the game to make it run at 96Hz?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ukic*
> 
> Question about overclocking: Desktop is set to 2560x1440 @ 60Hz. When playing Battlefield Hardline, settings are set to 2560x1440 @ 96Hz. Is the game really running at 96Hz? or I have to set desktop to 96Hz first then play the game to make it run at 96Hz?


Y3p the game is actually running @96hz you don't have to set the desktop at that res. When a program takes over full screen it can change the resolution and refresh rate and it will go back to 60hz when you close out to desktop.


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Y3p the game is actually running @96hz you don't have to set the desktop at that res. When a program takes over full screen it can change the resolution and refresh rate and it will go back to 60hz when you close out to desktop.


Cool! Thanks!


----------



## kaashoed

Are there people with some good recommendations for another monitor stand for the qnix? I live in the eu btw.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaashoed*
> 
> Are there people with some good recommendations for another monitor stand for the qnix? I live in the eu btw.


I use the Duronic stands. They're pretty good. Many of the stands with clamps like the Duronic 451x3 are pretty similar, so just get the cheapest one there is if that's the kind of stand you're going for.


----------



## robb41488

any vesa 100 mount will work. also check the OP theres a few suggestions there.


----------



## Jesse36m3

Has anyone here put three of the QNIX in surround?

I'm looking to pick up two more to go along with my sim racing setup. I already have two 970's, will they work as far as compatable connections go?

Can I use the two DVI's on the first card, and a third DVI on the second card, or am I going to have to run some kind of DP->DVI adapter?

Also, how are these monitors holding up for everybody? I've had my QNIX for about a year and a half and overclocks to 110hz perfectly. Are the sellers still shipping out quality panels? I'm not too worried about overclocking them. Dead pixels? Are the Perfect Pixel versions still worth it? That's the one I originally got and it only had one stuck red pixel in the corner.


----------



## kaashoed

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1428942054&sr=8-25&keywords=monitor+stand

Is this a good one?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaashoed*
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1428942054&sr=8-25&keywords=monitor+stand
> 
> Is this a good one?


It says max 23 inches from what I understand. You should definitely invest in one that says 27 inches


----------



## kaashoed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> It says max 23 inches from what I understand. You should definitely invest in one that says 27 inches


In the reviews it says it works for 27 inch too.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

That monoprice stand works fine with bigger monitors.
Quite a few people in here have their Qnix on one and I have my 27" Hazro on one.


----------



## kaashoed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> That monoprice stand works fine with bigger monitors.
> Quite a few people in here have their Qnix on one and I have my 27" Hazro on one.


Good to hear! Does it look nice with the monitor on it? A good choice in your opinion?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jesse36m3*
> 
> Has anyone here put three of the QNIX in surround?
> 
> I'm looking to pick up two more to go along with my sim racing setup. I already have two 970's, will they work as far as compatable connections go?
> 
> Can I use the two DVI's on the first card, and a third DVI on the second card, or am I going to have to run some kind of DP->DVI adapter?
> 
> Also, how are these monitors holding up for everybody? I've had my QNIX for about a year and a half and overclocks to 110hz perfectly. Are the sellers still shipping out quality panels? I'm not too worried about overclocking them. Dead pixels? Are the Perfect Pixel versions still worth it? That's the one I originally got and it only had one stuck red pixel in the corner.


First off, I can't talk to the newer panels, my three are all over a year old.

As for surround, I'm running two 780Ti's. Your two 970's should work fine. No need for DP to DVI, you can do as you stated, and use two DVI connections on one card, and hook up the third monitor to the other card. If you want a fourth monitor (not part of surround) you need to connect to either HDMI or DP.


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaashoed*
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Monoprice-Adjustable-Tilting-Monitor-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1428942054&sr=8-25&keywords=monitor+stand
> 
> Is this a good one?


I just got the same exact one. I use it on my 32" Qnix QX320. Very solid! But since it's rated up to 27" only, I can't rotate 180.

EDIT: Monoprice site says up to 23" but the box actually says up to 27".


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaashoed*
> 
> Are there people with some good recommendations for another monitor stand for the qnix? I live in the eu btw.


I bought this AOC stand used and just today I received it.
I bought it from ebay uk, were weeks that I was looking for.




Very good.


----------



## The Storm

Can you still run an overclock if you have 3 of these monitors in eyefinity?


----------



## Jesse36m3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> First off, I can't talk to the newer panels, my three are all over a year old.
> 
> As for surround, I'm running two 780Ti's. Your two 970's should work fine. No need for DP to DVI, you can do as you stated, and use two DVI connections on one card, and hook up the third monitor to the other card. If you want a fourth monitor (not part of surround) you need to connect to either HDMI or DP.


Thanks man, I appreciate the response.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> Can you still run an overclock if you have 3 of these monitors in eyefinity?


Eyefinity, probably not, maybe to 85Hz. Eyefinity requires all monitors to be connected to the primary video card, so you need to use a DP to DVI adapter for the third monitor. This will limit your OC.

Luckily for those of us with Nvidia, we don't have that requirement. We can use the DVI ports on multiple video cards in SLI for surround. My three are usually at 96Hz. One of mine can't go over 110Hz, so I stick to 96Hz.


----------



## FSB-SPY

Just bought the SE matte model from accessorieswhole for $280 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491

I then read a lot of posts here regarding the inferior new panel (LTM270DL0*7*) versus the original good one (LTM270DL0*2*) and decided to ask the seller which panel this SE matte model has.
Quote:


> Hi,
> Thank you for contacting us.
> The panel is LTM270DL0*2*.


I would also like to verify this on my panel myself. Is there a program or would I have to physically open up my monitor? Will have it on Friday.


----------



## juaner92

HI! well after reading a lot i buy this one New QNIX QX2710 LED EVOLUTION II MULTI TRUE10 27" 2560x1440 HDMI Monitor http://www.ebay.com/itm/400794721468
i read that the TRUE10 Model is for graphic design, and i want this monitor mostly for photoshop. So i think this was a good model right?

but how to activate the 10-bit color?

my pc speces are:

Intel i7 2600
Ram 14 GB
VGA: Nvidia 970 msi
power supply corsair 650 watts

with this graphic card can i use the 10bits?

is bad idea overcloack it to 85 hz? and what is the Input lag?

i wanted it to have a HDMI port cause the Nvidia 970 MSI have one HDMI output. (it was a bad decision?

it was a good price? for it? was one of the fewers QNIX monitors that shipp to Colombia.


----------



## theMillen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juaner92*
> 
> HI! well after reading a lot i buy this one New QNIX QX2710 LED EVOLUTION II MULTI TRUE10 27" 2560x1440 HDMI Monitor http://www.ebay.com/itm/400794721468
> i read that the TRUE10 Model is for graphic design, and i want this monitor mostly for photoshop. So i think this was a good model right?
> 
> but how to activate the 10-bit color?
> 
> my pc speces are:
> 
> Intel i7 2600
> Ram 14 GB
> VGA: Nvidia 970 msi
> power supply corsair 650 watts
> 
> with this graphic card can i use the 10bits?
> 
> is bad idea overcloack it to 85 hz? and what is the Input lag?
> 
> i wanted it to have a HDMI port cause the Nvidia 970 MSI have one HDMI output. (it was a bad decision?
> 
> edit: also it being a ahva panel not the samsung pls, overclocking is not gauranteed
> it was a good price? for it? was one of the fewers QNIX monitors that shipp to Colombia.


if you're looking to game, i would highly suggest away from the multi input models, more inputs, more scalars, more input lag, the dvi only version has the lowest response time, that is what you want for gaming, but if youre not wanting to game AT ALL then it should be fine for graphical work.


----------



## juaner92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theMillen*
> 
> if you're looking to game, i would highly suggest away from the multi input models, more inputs, more scalars, more input lag, the dvi only version has the lowest response time, that is what you want for gaming, but if youre not wanting to game AT ALL then it should be fine for graphical work.


well i play casual games like League of legends or Dwarf fortress i dont play HIgh Graphics games rlly, the most importat thing to me is graphic desgine. so did i made a smart buy?


----------



## N3RORE

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FSB-SPY*
> 
> Just bought the SE matte model from accessorieswhole for $280 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491
> 
> I then read a lot of posts here regarding the inferior new panel (LTM270DL0*7*) versus the original good one (LTM270DL0*2*) and decided to ask the seller which panel this SE matte model has.
> I would also like to verify this on my panel myself. Is there a program or would I have to physically open up my monitor? Will have it on Friday.


LTM270DL0*7* is only Glossy = Antiglare (Haze 1%), no matte monitor exist with this...
LTM270DL0*2* is only Matte = Antiglare (Haze 42%), LTM270DL0*6* is only Semi-Glossy = Antiglare (Haze 35%).

P.S: new panel is arrived http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL08_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_parameter_24452.html but specs aren't fully reported.


----------



## Recr3ational

Edit: Scratch that.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FSB-SPY*
> 
> Just bought the SE matte model from accessorieswhole for $280 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491
> 
> I then read a lot of posts here regarding the inferior new panel (LTM270DL0*7*) versus the original good one (LTM270DL0*2*) and decided to ask the seller which panel this SE matte model has.
> I would also like to verify this on my panel myself. Is there a program or would I have to physically open up my monitor? Will have it on Friday.


"inferior" 07 panel...

as said above the matte only comes in an 02.

that said i have a new 07 and love it. i can only see it being an issue if you have an older glossy 02 and buy a newer glossy 07.
if the 07 is the first panel youve owned you wont know the difference


----------



## FSB-SPY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> false
> LTM270DL0*7* is only Glossy = Antiglare (Haze 1%), no matte monitor exist with this...
> LTM270DL0*2* is only Matte = Antiglare (Haze 42%), LTM270DL0*6* is only Semi-Glossy = Antiglare (Haze 35%).
> 
> P.S: new panel is arrived http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL08_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_parameter_24452.html but specs aren't fully reported.


Ah, I only read the last 30 or so pages and it seemed people were confused about SE matte panels.







Thank you for the clarity. Now I wonder if I should have waited for the 08. Wonder what improvements have been made.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> "inferior" 07 panel...
> 
> as said above the matte only comes in an 02.
> 
> that said i have a new 07 and love it. i can only see it being an issue if you have an older glossy 02 and buy a newer glossy 07.
> if the 07 is the first panel youve owned you wont know the difference


Sorry, inferior was probably the wrong word. I was just referring to the video review showing the displays side-by-side. Both the panels are great, I was mostly worried about the PWM headaches that people were reporting from the newer ones.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> "inferior" 07 panel...
> 
> as said above the matte only comes in an 02.
> 
> that said i have a new 07 and love it. i can only see it being an issue if you have an older glossy 02 and buy a newer glossy 07.
> if the 07 is the first panel youve owned you wont know the difference


Yeah I had the rarer 06 panel for about a week before a tragic accident and now have the 07 panel and couldn't be happier. If you are coming from TN it is going to be major upgrade either way. That being said I would still get a matte knowing now, what I didn't know then.


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Hmm

Bottom second quarter from the left of my scree is darker than normal. weird.

Any clues?

It's like this:

light dark light light

Not sure what a dark patch suggests.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh*
> 
> Hmm
> 
> Bottom second quarter from the left of my scree is darker than normal. weird.
> 
> Any clues?
> 
> It's like this:
> 
> light dark light light
> 
> Not sure what a dark patch suggests.


usually it implies the BL diffuser sheet has moved. you may have to open it up and check the bezel to see if its straight


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Oh - so pop off the bezel and look at what's going on? Plausible.

Is there anything in particular I'm looking for?


----------



## GiveMeHope

Today there was a very loud sound form my Qnix, when I disconnected it from my PC. When I reconnected, this is what I get.










Got it in November 2013. Is it dead?


----------



## theMillen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Today there was a very loud sound form my Qnix, when I disconnected it from my PC. When I reconnected, this is what I get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it in November 2013. Is it dead?


yup







hope you got squaretrade warranty, ive had to use them twice already >.< each time bought a new one with warranty!


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Today there was a very loud sound form my Qnix, when I disconnected it from my PC. When I reconnected, this is what I get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it in November 2013. Is it dead?


Try to change the pcb, because if is it can be repaired very fastly.


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theMillen*
> 
> yup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you got squaretrade warranty, ive had to use them twice already >.< each time bought a new one with warranty!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Try to change the pcb, because if is it can be repaired very fastly.


Thanks guys. I didn't get the warranty. Fun while it lasted. Do I need to send this over to South Korea for repair?


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiveMeHope*
> 
> Thanks guys. I didn't get the warranty. Fun while it lasted. Do I need to send this over to South Korea for repair?


Take this, very cheap and try! http://www.ebay.it/itm/321716890523?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
On youtube can find all info & tutorial for open the monitor and change the pcb.


----------



## Cyclopz

Just received my matte Qnix from accessorieswhole today - excellent so far, no dead pixels from what I can tell and very minimal backlight bleed. From Korea to Wisconsin in 2 days absolutely blows my mind! Now for some 1440p GTA V action....


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jesse36m3*
> 
> Has anyone here put three of the QNIX in surround?
> 
> I'm looking to pick up two more to go along with my sim racing setup. I already have two 970's, will they work as far as compatable connections go?
> 
> Can I use the two DVI's on the first card, and a third DVI on the second card, or am I going to have to run some kind of DP->DVI adapter?
> 
> Also, how are these monitors holding up for everybody? I've had my QNIX for about a year and a half and overclocks to 110hz perfectly. Are the sellers still shipping out quality panels? I'm not too worried about overclocking them. Dead pixels? Are the Perfect Pixel versions still worth it? That's the one I originally got and it only had one stuck red pixel in the corner.


You might get different panels. If you have the new panel already, you can ask the seller to make sure he's going to ship you the model with the new panel. If you have the old panel, you need to get hold of a seller that is still selling older stock, even if with newer, and make sure he sends the old panel.

They have different gamuts which cannot be corrected for using Color controls (meaning even if the monitor had an OSD which these don't) or grayscale calibration (as in applying color profiles system-wide like we do - games aren't color aware and only grayscale is calibrated - surround means you don't even get to apply separate profiles for each monitor since they're all seen as one big monitor by the OS).

Watch out, mix & match is dangerous.


----------



## juaner92

Originally Posted by juaner92 View Post

HI! well after reading a lot i buy this one New QNIX QX2710 LED EVOLUTION II MULTI TRUE10 27" 2560x1440 HDMI Monitor http://www.ebay.com/itm/400794721468
i read that the TRUE10 Model is for graphic design, and i want this monitor mostly for photoshop. So i think this was a good model right?

but how to activate the 10-bit color?

my pc speces are:

Intel i7 2600
Ram 14 GB
VGA: Nvidia 970 msi
power supply corsair 650 watts

with this graphic card can i use the 10bits?

is bad idea overcloack it to 85 hz? and what is the Input lag?

i wanted it to have a HDMI port cause the Nvidia 970 MSI have one HDMI output. (it was a bad decision?

edit: also it being a ahva panel not the samsung pls, overclocking is not gauranteed
it was a good price? for it? was one of the fewers QNIX monitors that shipp to Colombia.


----------



## kaashoed

Just got my qnix qx2710! It has no defect pixels and I dont even notice any backlight bleed. This is amazing! Had to pay 53 euros extra though when it got delivered because I live in the netherlands, didn't know this.


----------



## Jesse36m3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaashoed*
> 
> Just got my qnix qx2710! It has no defect pixels and I dont even notice any backlight bleed. This is amazing! Had to pay 53 euros extra though when it got delivered because I live in the netherlands, didn't know this.


What seller did you purchase from?


----------



## kaashoed

accessorieswhole, this was the offer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111484036894?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## GiveMeHope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Take this, very cheap and try! http://www.ebay.it/itm/321716890523?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> On youtube can find all info & tutorial for open the monitor and change the pcb.


That's actually a bid. I doubt it will come cheap. Is there a way to know the real price?


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> false
> LTM270DL0*7* is only Glossy = Antiglare (Haze 1%), no matte monitor exist with this...
> LTM270DL0*2* is only Matte = Antiglare (Haze 42%), LTM270DL0*6* is only Semi-Glossy = Antiglare (Haze 35%).
> 
> P.S: new panel is arrived http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL08_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_parameter_24452.html but specs aren't fully reported.


So which panel did the older matte QNIX 2710 use? The 02 or the 06?


----------



## Cyclopz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> So which panel did the older matte QNIX 2710 use? The 02 or the 06?


From what I've been reading the single input matte version uses the 02 panel. Are you looking for the 02 panel matte? I ordered the single input matte from accessorieswhole ($289.00) a few days ago and received the 02 panel (confirmed because I had to open it to remove the stand base for mounting). Loving it so far:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## The Storm

I have been wondering, do you think its the actual panel that is the limiting factor for overclocks like a lottery, or is it a weaker vs stronger pcb that allows that much frequency being drivin through it? Maybe all the panels have the capability and its just if you get a good pcb or not?


----------



## SupahSpankeh

Can anyone tell me how to check/fix the BL diffuser sheet before I open up my monitor?

Would be sure to call the rep fairy in for a recommendation


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blunden*
> 
> So which panel did the older matte QNIX 2710 use? The 02 or the 06?


02, but some lucky people have found the 06.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> 02, but some lucky people have found the 06.


so what would that look like on the back of the monitor? Or would I have to open it up to check?

Mine says "20131025DL6305" on the back, but I don't want to open it up as I have no BLB at the moment and would like it to stay that way lol.


----------



## blunden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclopz*
> 
> From what I've been reading the single input matte version uses the 02 panel. Are you looking for the 02 panel matte? I ordered the single input matte from accessorieswhole ($289.00) a few days ago and received the 02 panel (confirmed because I had to open it to remove the stand base for mounting). Loving it so far:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


I was wondering what version of the panel the older matte panels had, ie. the panel that they originally shipped with a year or two ago. It seems others have already answered that now though.


----------



## juaner92

how u activate or use the 10 bit color depth'?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> so what would that look like on the back of the monitor? Or would I have to open it up to check?
> 
> Mine says "20131025DL6305" on the back, but I don't want to open it up as I have no BLB at the moment and would like it to stay that way lol.


its a sticker on the back of the panel itself.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> so what would that look like on the back of the monitor? Or would I have to open it up to check?
> 
> Mine says "20131025DL6305" on the back, but I don't want to open it up as I have no BLB at the moment and would like it to stay that way lol.


Here:



or Here:


----------



## FSB-SPY

Another happy customer! No dead pixels, running at 96hz. My old Nvidia GTS 450 can't pull 120hz I don't think. Got the single input SE matte model from accessorieswhole for $279.99 shipped. Upgrading from my old 20" Dell 2008WFP TN panel. :O

Is there a popular color profile for this model?


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FSB-SPY*
> 
> Is there a popular color profile for this model?


+1!!! Although I am using QX320qhd but they should have same color profiles.... Right?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FSB-SPY*
> 
> Another happy customer! No dead pixels, running at 96hz. My old Nvidia GTS 450 can't pull 120hz I don't think. Got the single input SE matte model from accessorieswhole for $279.99 shipped. Upgrading from my old 20" Dell 2008WFP TN panel. :O
> 
> Is there a popular color profile for this model?


There are links in the OP for color profiles. Each monitor is different, so what works for one, may not work for others.


----------



## OkanG

Didn't get the monitor today. Gonna have to wait the whole weekend for it to get delivered







Whyyyyy


----------



## OkanG

Nevermind, looks like FedEx does pretty late deliveries. I kinda messed things up though









I tried the monitor before opening it up, and everything was fine. I installed the driver to see if it would overclock, and it had no problem running at 96Hz. Things started getting messy when I opened up the monitor to take the stand off. Everything went fine and I didn't break anything from what I can tell. But something has gone wrong somewhere, because when I hook the monitor up, it just goes into an endless color test cycle, cycling from white to red, green and blue infinitely. I don't know what to do







Do I get a custom PCB? Someone who has encountered this before?


----------



## HaplessIdiot

Well, I've got a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II now. Everything's great and I can run it at 117hz, but when ever I run games in full screen on the QNIX it usually works fine for about 2 or 5 minutes then freezes the game. Soon after that happens all my displays hitch up as well and I lose total control of my PC and have to restart. I basically have to play all my games in windowed mode just to enjoy the high frame rate. It really sucks!

What I think is happening is that when a game in windows tries to run in full screen its bypassing the monitors scaler to directly display an image from the GPU. But the QNIX has NO SCALER, so it takes only a matter of minutes for my GPU to spit out errors and crash.

I have a Nvidia GTX 570 with all the patches and the latest gpu drivers.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Nevermind, looks like FedEx does pretty late deliveries. I kinda messed things up though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the monitor before opening it up, and everything was fine. I installed the driver to see if it would overclock, and it had no problem running at 96Hz. Things started getting messy when I opened up the monitor to take the stand off. Everything went fine and I didn't break anything from what I can tell. But something has gone wrong somewhere, because when I hook the monitor up, it just goes into an endless color test cycle, cycling from white to red, green and blue infinitely. I don't know what to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I get a custom PCB? Someone who has encountered this before?


The color test cycle indicates the cable isn't connected or the GPU isn't sending a signal. Make sure the cable is in good on the monitor. All three of mine are picky about this.

If that doesn't work, you may want to take it apart again and check all the connections to make sure one didn't come loose.


----------



## piee

with nvidia cards just use NVCP to set resolution dont need any patches or anything just NVCP, uninstall all patches and just use nvidia graphics driver


----------



## HaplessIdiot

I'm using the Nvidia Specific DVI-D bandwidth patch from ToastyX so I can use refresh rate settings that surpass 330mhz on the pixel clock. You sure it's the patch?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The color test cycle indicates the cable isn't connected or the GPU isn't sending a signal. Make sure the cable is in good on the monitor. All three of mine are picky about this.
> 
> If that doesn't work, you may want to take it apart again and check all the connections to make sure one didn't come loose.


Because of your post, I decided to once again change the cable and see what would happen. I swapped back to the other cable (been switching back and forth during troubleshooting to no avail) and it seems like it won't work with the standard cable that came with the monitor even though it initially worked fine. I don't know if it was coincidence or not, but I've spent so much time on trying to fix this, I'm not touching this stuff again unless I have to









Weird that the cable that JUST worked earlier today suddenly decides to crap out and give the same error I got earlier because of another problem. This second monitor has been quite a headache compared to my first one last year. That one was pretty much plug and play.


----------



## FSB-SPY

So the stand is wobbly as stated by everyone, but does it go completely in, unlike mine in the photo? Wondering if mine is extra wobbly or if this is normal. If not, does anyone have a fix for this? Or do I just need to push *really* hard?


----------



## electro2u

Not normal. Mine fits in fairly easily. As for pushing really hard or figuring out what's keeping it from fitting, you'll probably have to use your best judgment Or post some photos of the inside of the housing and the outside of the stand shaft.


----------



## Native89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FSB-SPY*
> 
> 
> 
> So the stand is wobbly as stated by everyone, but does it go completely in, unlike mine in the photo? Wondering if mine is extra wobbly or if this is normal. If not, does anyone have a fix for this? Or do I just need to push *really* hard?


My monitor had the same problem. In my case the plastic on the base was blocking the threaded hole that the screw goes in.
I just used a knife and flat-head screwdriver to shave some of the plastic down. Might not be the same problem, but my stand looked very similar.


----------



## fullban

looking for a cheap 27" 3way monitor stand for my setup

has anyone got any links please?


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> looking for a cheap 27" 3way monitor stand for my setup
> 
> has anyone got any links please?


I don't think there are any cheap ones.

Edit: Turns out I'm wrong.
http://www.amazon.com/Mount--Triple-Monitor-Horizontal-monitors/dp/B00FQSHRK2/ref=sr_1_8?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1429348630&sr=1-8&keywords=Triple+Monitor+Stand


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I don't think there are any cheap ones.
> 
> Edit: Turns out I'm wrong.
> http://www.amazon.com/Mount--Triple-Monitor-Horizontal-monitors/dp/B00FQSHRK2/ref=sr_1_8?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1429348630&sr=1-8&keywords=Triple+Monitor+Stand


thanks mate

I forgot to say I was from uk and amozon.com wont ship


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Hey guys,

Was wondering if I should go with a Qnix/X-Star monitor and then OC it or just go for a BenQ monitor like the BenQ GW2765HT? Read it goes up to 75hz.

I was planning on getting the Acer XB270HU but I can't warrant spending $800 when I barely game on my PC for more than 2 hours a day. If even that at all.

I was thinking instead of just going for a 1440p IPS monitor and then just OCing it to what hz I can get it too. That way I still have some benefits for the times that I do game.

Would like to hear what you guys think and if I do go for a Korean monitor, what's the best option on eBay right now?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hi iTs SlayeR*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Was wondering if I should go with a Qnix/X-Star monitor and then OC it or just go for a BenQ monitor like the BenQ GW2765HT? Read it goes up to 75hz.
> 
> I was planning on getting the Acer XB270HU but I can't warrant spending $800 when I barely game on my PC for more than 2 hours a day. If even that at all.
> 
> I was thinking instead of just going for a 1440p IPS monitor and then just OCing it to what hz I can get it too. That way I still have some benefits for the times that I do game.
> 
> Would like to hear what you guys think and if I do go for a Korean monitor, what's the best option on eBay right now?


75Hz < 96Hz+

#qnixforlife


----------



## stin0

I performed a tape mod on my bezels te reduce the backlighbleeding.



Before


After


The pics were taken with an iPhone 5 and it makes it look a lot worse than it actually is.
The backlightbleeding is almost completely gone, I can't stop any bleeding during normal use or in games


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> 75Hz < 96Hz+
> 
> #qnixforlife


Any recommendation on which one to get on eBay? There seems to be a ton and it looks like the ones with TRUE10 aren't as good in OCing.

Is the only difference between these two the Glossy and Matte finish?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/131425259171?_mwBanner=1&rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%3A80%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5337413396%26toolid%3D10001%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FQNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-%252F131425259171%253Fpt%253DLH_DefaultDomain_0%2526hash%253Ditem1e998e4ea3%26srcrot%3D711-53200-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D816557888304

http://m.ebay.com/itm/130933173797?_mwBanner=1&rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%3A80%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5337413396%26toolid%3D10001%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fitm%252F130933173797%253F_trksid%253Dp2060353.m2749.l2649%2526ssPageName%253DSTRK%25253AMEBIDX%25253AIT%26srcrot%3D711-53200-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D816583711695&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


----------



## stin0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hi iTs SlayeR*
> 
> Any recommendation on which one to get on eBay? There seems to be a ton and it looks like the ones with TRUE10 aren't as good in OCing.
> 
> Is the only difference between these two the Glossy and Matte finish?


The only difference there is indeed the Glossy or Matte finish, I would seriously recommend getting the Matte one.
The glossy one has more lifely colors, but it reflects EVERYTHING.

True10 version should be avoided if you wish to overclock. It has HDMI/DVI and frameskipping occurs really fast, which makes overclocking pointless.
I've tested three QNIX with DVI only and all went above 105 Hz without frameskipping


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stin0*
> 
> The only difference there is indeed the Glossy or Matte finish, I would seriously recommend getting the Matte one.
> The glossy one has more lifely colors, but it reflects EVERYTHING.
> 
> True10 version should be avoided if you wish to overclock. It has HDMI/DVI and frameskipping occurs really fast, which makes overclocking pointless.
> I've tested three QNIX with DVI only and all went above 105 Hz without frameskipping


Thanks! It looks like there are three versions? I'm seeing SE Glossy, Glossy and Matte. Is SE Glossy the same as Glossy or is it glossy with a hint of Anti-Glare?


----------



## OkanG

Agreed, the glossy one does indeed reflect a lot, but it doesn't bother me too much personally, so I went with the glossy one. They're both great, it's just up to preference


----------



## Ghostcode

I currently have a GTX 970 and 2x QNIX at 96hz no problem using the DVI ports.

My question is: If I want a third QNIX at 96hz, can I use a displayport to DVI adapter?

I do game a lot, but I don't do triple monitor gaming and have no plans to. I guess i"m just not sure if I can achieve a 96hz overclock using a DP Adapter with my single GTX 970.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostcode*
> 
> I currently have a GTX 970 and 2x QNIX at 96hz no problem using the DVI ports.
> 
> My question is: If I want a third QNIX at 96hz, can I use a displayport to DVI adapter?
> 
> I do game a lot, but I don't do triple monitor gaming and have no plans to. I guess i"m just not sure if I can achieve a 96hz overclock using a DP Adapter with my single GTX 970.


Probably not. My testing showed frame skipping above 90Hz. You may have better luck with a different adapter, but I wouldn't bet on it.


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Alright I have no idea which version to pick. There seems to be several different versions on eBay from the same seller, accessorieswhole.

There's QX2710 with the following in the titles:

SE Glossy
Glossy
SE Matte
Matte
I'm guessing the SE versions stands for Semi-Glossy and Semi Matte? Are they the same?

On top of that he has:

PLS QHD
PLS WQHD
Can anyone give me a quick run down on all the differences? The prices also seem to vary from one another so it just adds to the confusion. I'd like to go with one that's glossy with a hint of matte to it since it looks like the matte coating doesn't effect the clarity that badly. My windows don't cast light onto my monitor as well.

I found a SE Matte (Semi-Matte?) for $280:

QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS WQHD PC Monitor

But then all of a sudden for SE Glossy the seller has 3 different listings at 3 different price.

$290 - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Glossy 27" SAMSUNG PLS QHD 2560x1440 PC Monitor
$285 - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Glossy 27" 2560x1440 QHD SAMSUNG PLS PC Monitor
$250 - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Glossy 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS QHD PC Monitor

Can anyone clarify all this to me please?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hi iTs SlayeR*
> 
> Alright I have no idea which version to pick. There seems to be several different versions on eBay from the same seller, accessorieswhole.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There's QX2710 with the following in the titles:
> 
> SE Glossy
> Glossy
> SE Matte
> Matte
> I'm guessing the SE versions stands for Semi-Glossy and Semi Matte? Are they the same?
> 
> On top of that he has:
> 
> PLS QHD
> PLS WQHD
> Can anyone give me a quick run down on all the differences? The prices also seem to vary from one another so it just adds to the confusion. I'd like to go with one that's glossy with a hint of matte to it since it looks like the matte coating doesn't effect the clarity that badly. My windows don't cast light onto my monitor as well.
> 
> I found a SE Matte (Semi-Matte?) for $280:
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS WQHD PC Monitor
> 
> But then all of a sudden for SE Glossy the seller has 3 different listings at 3 different price.
> 
> $290 - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Glossy 27" SAMSUNG PLS QHD 2560x1440 PC Monitor
> $285 - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Glossy 27" 2560x1440 QHD SAMSUNG PLS PC Monitor
> $250 - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Glossy 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS QHD PC Monitor
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone clarify all this to me please?


SE is Second or Special edition. The only real difference is less quality control, so more dead/stuck pixels are acceptable. Some have gotten SE that were perfect, some haven't. Your choice.


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> SE is Second or Special edition. The only real difference is less quality control, so more dead/stuck pixels are acceptable. Some have gotten SE that were perfect, some haven't. Your choice.


So the SE versions are more prone to having dead pixels? Seems like I'll go with just the regular versions.

I'm reading a couple of pages back and it looks like they used to offer a panel that was Semi-Glossy.

LTM270DL07 is only Glossy = Antiglare (Haze 1%),
LTM270DL02 is only Matte = Antiglare (Haze 42%)
LTM270DL06 is only Semi-Glossy = Antiglare (Haze 35%).

Is it possible to still grab it or is it off the market? All I see right now is Matte and Glossy listings.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hi iTs SlayeR*
> 
> Alright I have no idea which version to pick. There seems to be several different versions on eBay from the same seller, accessorieswhole.
> 
> There's QX2710 with the following in the titles:
> 
> SE Glossy
> Glossy
> SE Matte
> Matte
> I'm guessing the SE versions stands for Semi-Glossy and Semi Matte? Are they the same?
> 
> On top of that he has:
> 
> PLS QHD
> PLS WQHD
> Can anyone give me a quick run down on all the differences? The prices also seem to vary from one another so it just adds to the confusion. I'd like to go with one that's glossy with a hint of matte to it since it looks like the matte coating doesn't effect the clarity that badly. My windows don't cast light onto my monitor as well.
> 
> I found a SE Matte (Semi-Matte?) for $280:
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS WQHD PC Monitor
> 
> But then all of a sudden for SE Glossy the seller has 3 different listings at 3 different price.
> 
> $290 - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Glossy 27" SAMSUNG PLS QHD 2560x1440 PC Monitor
> $285 - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Glossy 27" 2560x1440 QHD SAMSUNG PLS PC Monitor
> $250 - QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Glossy 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS QHD PC Monitor
> 
> Can anyone clarify all this to me please?


You should probably take some time and read the OP and do a search in the thread. Everything you've asked 3 times has been answered before many times.

But since your lazy and can't search.

SE means second edition. These have a more relaxed qc and can have up to 5 dead/stuck pixels depending on seller. Some sellers do offer these in a pixel pefect.


----------



## Hi iTs SlayeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> You should probably take some time and read the OP and do a search in the thread. Everything you've asked 3 times has been answered before many times.
> 
> But since your lazy and can't search.
> 
> SE means second edition. These have a more relaxed qc and can have up to 5 dead/stuck pixels depending on seller. Some sellers do offer these in a pixel pefect.


Yeah sorry about that. I was reading the last few pages instead of going over the OP which I did after asking that.

Seems it's better to just go with the non-SE versions.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hi iTs SlayeR*
> 
> Yeah sorry about that. I was reading the last few pages instead of going over the OP which I did after asking that.
> 
> Seems it's better to just go with the non-SE versions.


Tbh it doesn't matter what you order Really. We have all gotten really good panels. In the last few pages a few people including myself ordered SE's and each were perfect


----------



## HaplessIdiot

There is a thumb screw in the bottom of the stand, you need to unscrew it, and rescrew it with the stand on. You should see the hole on the underneath of the stand.


----------



## smille76

Hi,

First post here, I am a regular reader and found lots of valuable infos here during the last few months when I was shopping for PC components to build myself a nice rig after 15 years out of PC buisness. I managed to build this without too much trouble, although my last build involved an AMD Athlon Thunderbird 900 mHz on an Abit motherboard....









Anyways, I was in the hunt for a good monitor to play in 1440p so all researches led to this Qnix/Xstar panels everybody were talking about. I live in Canada and locally prices are through the roof if you want to get a good name-brand (Asus,Dell,Benq, Samsung) 27" panel able to sustain moderate gaming at 1440p.

I decided to try my luck at a Qnix 1440p panel on ebay after reading 90% of this thread (no joke. I bought a single input DVI-D input model as recommended by everybody here. The panel was bought from Accessorieswhole about 10 days ago, I chose standard edition (non pixel perfect, non SE version, glossy). I was about 361$ CDN landed here, pretty good IMO. I was ready to cope with a few dead pixels and the lousy stand would be replaced with a VESA mounting arm, so no biggie there for me.

I received the package promptly as expected, the box was really well packaged, absolutely no damage.

I promptly tried the monitor on my newly built rig (that was working 100% good on an old Viewsonic 21" monitor in the meantime). The monitor is obviously DOA, there is a 1 inch wide black vertical bar right in the middle of the display. I tried another port on my Asus card, another DVI-D cable that is known to be working 100%, same results.

The monitor was obvioulsy never taken out of the box, so the seller claims as "100% pre-tested" is false, the bezel is also a bit wavy at the base (doesn't sit flush with the screen, about 1/2" gap). I tried to contact the seller via ebay system. He replied to me promptly and told me that was really infortunate and I will have to send this back at my own cost (140$ CDN to ship this back with delivery confirmation) or accept a compensation. This is the kind of answer I was expecting because this looks to be some kind of lottery and I was sent a defective monitor. The seller then tried to make me admit that there was a problem with the cable, or my rig. I conformed that everything works with another monitor or the cable doesn't change a thing. I took the panel to a local electronic repair shop to quickly check if something is wrong inside (loose connection, easy fix, etc). There is a ding on the lower part of the LCD panel where the 1 inch wide ribbons connect to the small board at the bottom. Just by touching the ribbon under the black bar, the technician showed me that the bar changed colors (blue, black, green, snow, etc). There is damage in this area and I was told to forget about this, this is unrepairable.

I contacted him again to ask for a full refund, because I can see some kind of scam there. Seller has a bunch of panels for sale, some are known to be better than others. If someone pays for a "perfect pixel", he sends a "nicer panel". Otherwise, he sends any panel he has on hand without even opening the box. Seller knows that even if the panel is DOA, the buyer won't bother retuning this because it is roughly 1/2 the cost of the panel so most people will swallow the pill. I won't ship this back, I prefer giving the monitor to a local organism that teaches the street gangs kids how to work with electronics and learn something to do for a living instead of illegal stuff.

Anyways, needless to says that the seller suddenly started to ignore emails and disappeared. In the 14 years of shopping on ebay, I was maybe scammed 2-3 times and did nothing about it. This time however I escalated this to Paypal as "significantly not as described". My point is that the panel is advertised as being "100% pre-tested" by technicians and it was obviously a lie. The damage to the internals when the box and the outer appearance of the monitor are pristine confirms to me that this was sent " as-is" without any testing.

Anyways, thanks to all here for the precious tips and it is really appreciated. I would have like to post something more positive as my 1st post but I'll have to do this because if you are on the fence for one of those, this is something to consider if you get a dud like me.

Cheers!

smille76


----------



## Seafodder

Sorry to hear you got the short straw... I'm sure the seller will claim the unit was indeed pre-tested and re-packaged and the damage you have must have occurred during shipping. Hope you can get it sorted out thru Paypal, returning the unit for a replacement is prohibitively expensive.


----------



## smille76

Hi,

Yes I know this is most likely a lost battle, but I'll give it a shot anyways







I know I was playing some kind of lottery with this purchase and I always had some sort of bad luck with electronic components (I'm like a walking ESP, stuff litteraly breaks down on me for no reason!!).

In the meantime, I ordered a BenQ GW2765HT. I know it will not OC like the Qnix (mine went up to 96 mhz, I played a bit with it despite the fact that it is broken), but it looks like a better package overall and it was only 479$. IMO, only 125$ more than the Qnix is worth it since the monitor looks way more "finished".

Since I'm not a competitive gamer and only enjoy playing the occasional FPS and mostly strategy games (Rome TW2, Sc2, etc), I prefer getting something with vivid and clear colors rather than playing again the Qnix lottery and ending with an average panel.

I'll let you know the outcome of this Paypal claim, maybe it will help other buyers that got a lemon like me.

Cheers!

S.


----------



## fullban

I have just de bezeled my monitor

I have noticed about 5mm around the screen is black (this was covered by the bezel) between metal frame and viewable screen

is that normal?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smille76*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Yes I know this is most likely a lost battle, but I'll give it a shot anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I was playing some kind of lottery with this purchase and I always had some sort of bad luck with electronic components (I'm like a walking ESP, stuff litteraly breaks down on me for no reason!!).
> 
> In the meantime, I ordered a BenQ GW2765HT. I know it will not OC like the Qnix (mine went up to 96 mhz, I played a bit with it despite the fact that it is broken), but it looks like a better package overall and it was only 479$. IMO, only 125$ more than the Qnix is worth it since the monitor looks way more "finished".
> 
> Since I'm not a competitive gamer and only enjoy playing the occasional FPS and mostly strategy games (Rome TW2, Sc2, etc), I prefer getting something with vivid and clear colors rather than playing again the Qnix lottery and ending with an average panel.
> 
> I'll let you know the outcome of this Paypal claim, maybe it will help other buyers that got a lemon like me.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> S.


You'll probably win. PayPal almost always sides with the buyer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> I have just de bezeled my monitor
> 
> I have noticed about 5mm around the screen is black (this was covered by the bezel) between metal frame and viewable screen
> 
> is that normal?


This is normal. Otherwise you would loose this area with the bezel on


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> You'll probably win. PayPal almost always sides with the buyer.
> This is normal. Otherwise you would loose this area with the bezel on


is there an option in the registry to enable overscan because its not listed as an option in ccc.

or maybe change a setting in cru ?

thanks


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> is there an option in the registry to enable overscan because its not listed as an option in ccc.
> 
> or maybe change a setting in cru ?
> 
> thanks


Overscan wont fill that area. its in no way an active portion of the screen.


----------



## X79guy

Ive had my qnix monitor for a while now, running at 110hz stable with auto timings. I recently upgraded from a GTX 680 to a GTX Titan X and now I cant go higher than 96hz without getting screen artifacts such as colored lines. How can I fix this? I don't understand how going from a GTX 680 to a GTX Titan X changed my monitors ability to overclock? I did a clean install of windows when I switched out the graphics card. Any help is appreciated, thanks.


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> Ive had my qnix monitor for a while now, running at 110hz stable with auto timings. I recently upgraded from a GTX 680 to a GTX Titan X and now I cant go higher than 96hz without getting screen artifacts such as colored lines. How can I fix this? I don't understand how going from a GTX 680 to a GTX Titan X changed my monitors ability to overclock? I did a clean install of windows when I switched out the graphics card. Any help is appreciated, thanks.


Hmm. Possibly the drivers. Try CRU.


----------



## DemiseGR

Installed GTA V over the weekend, and i absolutely love it. Their default settings put a frame rate target of whatever your monitor's refresh rate is (100hz in my case) and it runs so smoothly.... Albeit i cant run it on Ultra, but still 100fps on very high, the game looks very impressive









Waiting on my EK RMA to come back for SLI, but definetly hitting the 3gb vram wall of the 780s with 2x msaa


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> Installed GTA V over the weekend, and i absolutely love it. Their default settings put a frame rate target of whatever your monitor's refresh rate is (100hz in my case) and it runs so smoothly.... Albeit i cant run it on Ultra, but still 100fps on very high, the game looks very impressive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on my EK RMA to come back for SLI, but definetly hitting the 3gb vram wall of the 780s with 2x msaa


You get a constant 100FPS?


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> You get a constant 100FPS?


It dips to 90fps sometimes, but yea 100fps constant pretty much. Sort of an in game v-sync feature i pressume


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> Ive had my qnix monitor for a while now, running at 110hz stable with auto timings. I recently upgraded from a GTX 680 to a GTX Titan X and now I cant go higher than 96hz without getting screen artifacts such as colored lines. How can I fix this? I don't understand how going from a GTX 680 to a GTX Titan X changed my monitors ability to overclock? I did a clean install of windows when I switched out the graphics card. Any help is appreciated, thanks.


Just try without GeForce Experience(if it is installed), in my cases without GF Ex. my OC is better than Installed, without I can go as close to 120Hz but with at 110Hz I've some artefact.
Only at 96 Hz no difference I've found with and w/o GF Ex.


----------



## DemiseGR

I was researching triple Qnix (dvi only) on 780s. As you might know the 780s have 2x DVI 1xHDMI and 1xDP, however this image i found on the official nvidia website shows that if you have SLI you can have 2monitors on one GPU and the other 1/2 monitors on the second GPU:

2-way

3-way


From this i understand there is no need to buy the $100 DP to DVI adapter if you are running SLI for triple DVI monitors ?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> I was researching triple Qnix (dvi only) on 780s. As you might know the 780s have 2x DVI 1xHDMI and 1xDP, however this image i found on the official nvidia website shows that if you have SLI you can have 2monitors on one GPU and the other 1/2 monitors on the second GPU:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 2-way
> 
> 3-way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From this i understand there is no need to buy the $100 DP to DVI adapter if you are running SLI for triple DVI monitors ?


The website you linked is for surround, so you are partially correct. I have three monitors on two 780 TIs, with two monitors connected to one, and the third connected to the second one. There is a limitation if you want to run in SLI. Then the monitor on the second GPU will not work. If you want surround, or just three monitors connected, it will work fine.

I have a fourth monitor connected via DP to DVI (Not a QNIX). This works in any of the modes (SLI, Surround, all monitors/disable SLI).


----------



## DemiseGR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> The website you linked is for surround, so you are partially correct. I have three monitors on two 780 TIs, with two monitors connected to one, and the third connected to the second one. There is a limitation if you want to run in SLI. Then the monitor on the second GPU will not work. If you want surround, or just three monitors connected, it will work fine.
> 
> I have a fourth monitor connected via DP to DVI (Not a QNIX). This works in any of the modes (SLI, Surround, all monitors/disable SLI).


I'm confused. So the setups described in the pictures cannot be used for surround gaming ? Or they can be used but not with SLI ? thx


----------



## Jesse36m3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> I'm confused. So the setups described in the pictures cannot be used for surround gaming ? Or they can be used but not with SLI ? thx


Same question here because I'm about to pick up two more and do some surround sim racing on SLI 970's ..


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> I'm confused. So the setups described in the pictures cannot be used for surround gaming ? Or they can be used but not with SLI ? thx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jesse36m3*
> 
> Same question here because I'm about to pick up two more and do some surround sim racing on SLI 970's ..


They can be used for surround gaming.

What you can not do, is use all three monitors at the same time connected only to DVI, with the GPU's in SLI when NOT in surround.


----------



## Peen

Finally running 3 Qnix as of today. But one problem, this Dell Bizlink DVI-D to DP is complete junk. Constantly garbling up the screen, and the only way to fix is to force a screen resync, or unplugging and plugging back in USB(s) really fast. Tried on all 3 monitors and all have the same issue.

Anyone using any other active converter without issues?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peen*
> 
> Finally running 3 Qnix as of today. But one problem, this Dell Bizlink DVI-D to DP is complete junk. Constantly garbling up the screen, and the only way to fix is to force a screen resync, or unplugging and plugging back in USB(s) really fast. Tried on all 3 monitors and all have the same issue.
> 
> Anyone using any other active converter without issues?


finally,someone with multi qnix monitors...what gpu are you using for this setup? please elaborate as im very interested. I have 3 of them too but using one for now,i have sli gtx 580 will be upgrading soon.But always wondered which card to get as we need cards with 3 dvi ports which is pretty hard in the new cards.

Also, how are your monitors setup? do you have them with the original stem base? debezeled? sorry for asking too much,just want some ideas for when i set mine up.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DemiseGR*
> 
> It dips to 90fps sometimes, but yea 100fps constant pretty much. Sort of an in game v-sync feature i pressume


wait til you hit the desert..it will dip more.


----------



## X79guy

I did not install geforce experience and changing the drivers did nothing. Any other ideas? I have a powerful GPU now but cant even utilize the frame rate increase over the GTX 680 because I cant overclock as much now.


----------



## ukic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smille76*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> First post here, I am a regular reader and found lots of valuable infos here during the last few months when I was shopping for PC components to build myself a nice rig after 15 years out of PC buisness. I managed to build this without too much trouble, although my last build involved an AMD Athlon Thunderbird 900 mHz on an Abit motherboard....
> 
> .....
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> smille76


I recently purchased a monitor from the same seller like 2-3 weeks ago? Two other members here said they got it from that seller, so I went for it. My box arrived in 2 days flat from Korea. Well packaged and no dead pixels. Paid $429 Shipped for a Qnix 32" QX320QHD 1440p @ 96hz.


----------



## m4n715

Has anyone brought one of these into the UK and managed to get the seller to declare as a gift (I.e. Managed to get around paying vat and import dutie)?
Just interested if this is something the eBay sellers are willing to do.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peen*
> 
> Finally running 3 Qnix as of today. But one problem, this Dell Bizlink DVI-D to DP is complete junk. Constantly garbling up the screen, and the only way to fix is to force a screen resync, or unplugging and plugging back in USB(s) really fast. Tried on all 3 monitors and all have the same issue.
> 
> Anyone using any other active converter without issues?


I have one from Accell. The only issue I have with it is frame skipping above 90Hz, so not good for overclocking.


----------



## djdynamite123

AMD Cataylist shows 4 refresh rates 25 29 30 50, how do I remove them? I already have my 4 custom refresh rates in CRU that obviously also show up in Cat....?


----------



## Peen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> finally,someone with multi qnix monitors...what gpu are you using for this setup? please elaborate as im very interested. I have 3 of them too but using one for now,i have sli gtx 580 will be upgrading soon.But always wondered which card to get as we need cards with 3 dvi ports which is pretty hard in the new cards.
> 
> Also, how are your monitors setup? do you have them with the original stem base? debezeled? sorry for asking too much,just want some ideas for when i set mine up.


Using GTX670's, and can game in surround pretty easily with lowered details. Was having a bit of fun earlier with Shadow of Mordor on Medium details, about 40-50FPS, and Path of Exile maxed out. Just use the Dell Bizlinks to convert your monitor to DP.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I have one from Accell. The only issue I have with it is frame skipping above 90Hz, so not good for overclocking.


Mine won't let me monitors OC at all. Without it, they will do 120hz no problem.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peen*
> 
> Using GTX670's, and can game in surround pretty easily with lowered details. Was having a bit of fun earlier with Shadow of Mordor on Medium details, about 40-50FPS, and Path of Exile maxed out. Just use the Dell Bizlinks to convert your monitor to DP.
> Mine won't let me monitors OC at all. Without it, they will do 120hz no problem.


If you are using "GTX670's" (ie:more then one) why do you need the adapter?


----------



## Peen

Testing reasons, want to make sure it works ok before getting a Titan X.

Pic of setup, just for fun.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peen*
> 
> Testing reasons, want to make sure it works ok before getting a Titan X.


Makes sense, thanks for the reply.


----------



## dilonk

So I received my monitor today and stupidly realised I ordered the wrong version (single input, SE). It won't even overclock to 70hz without red lines across the screen. Does anyone else have the SE version and have overclock issues? I wasn't aware the SE version was the same as the off-grade, ah well.


----------



## Peen

One more little thing about running the 3 Qnix monitors, and an FYI. I purchased the first 2 around summer 2014 and they color match perfectly. With this new one I got, the color is way off. The new monitor is on the left and it has a really bad yellow tint. The one on the right is actually in the middle, and the one on the very right (not pictured) has the exact same color reproduction is the right one in pic.

Bad thing is, I bought the 3rd to run in nVidia surround with an LG accessory display. So the 3 Qnix are recognized as one display, and I can't tweak the colors on the monitor on left by itself.


----------



## X79guy

The monitor on the left looks color correct, while the monitor on the right looks to have to cool of a color temperature. The correct color temp (6500k) will look like its tinted yellow to most people because they are used to displays with cooler color temps.


----------



## prognosis82

So I've been researching for a while and finally want to pull the trigger on one of these monitors.
-Is this the correct model if I want to be able to overclock?
-Is there any point paying roughly £30 more for a 'Pixel Perfec' edition?
-I'm in the UK and does anyone have a better price? Know what the deal is with importing here?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111484036894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19f4f7671e

Thanks in advance.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> So I've been researching for a while and finally want to pull the trigger on one of these monitors.
> -Is this the correct model if I want to be able to overclock?
> -Is there any point paying roughly £30 more for a 'Pixel Perfec' edition?
> -I'm in the UK and does anyone have a better price? Know what the deal is with importing here?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111484036894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19f4f7671e
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Yes, that is the correct model for overclocking since it only has a single input (DVI).

There is no point in buying "Pixel Perfect". Both mine weren't Pixel Perfect editions, but both came with 0 pixels.

If you're set on a Glossy edition, this is cheaper:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e998e4ea3


----------



## prognosis82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Yes, that is the correct model for overclocking since it only has a single input (DVI).
> 
> There is no point in buying "Pixel Perfect". Both mine weren't Pixel Perfect editions, but both came with 0 pixels.
> 
> If you're set on a Glossy edition, this is cheaper:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e998e4ea3


Thanks -
Any real difference between 'green-sum' and 'accessorieswhole' as a seller?
I was set on a Glossy as I heard the colours are much better but now I'm not so sure due to the possible glare. Any idea if it'd be an issue in a room with a window next to the monitor and a main light that is usually on?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> Thanks -
> Any real difference between 'green-sum' and 'accessorieswhole' as a seller?
> I was set on a Glossy as I heard the colours are much better but now I'm not so sure due to the possible glare. Any idea if it'd be an issue in a room with a window next to the monitor and a main light that is usually on?


My monitors are right next to my window, sun shining into the room. As long as the sunshine is not directly on the monitors (or myself), I don't have a problem with it. It comes down to personal preference, since some people notice it much faster than others. If it gets really bad, I appreciate my curtains, but it rarely gets to that.

As far as sellers go, you can clearly see what's good under the reviews on ebay. I've bought both of mine from Accessories Whole, so that's the only store I can give my opinion on, and I have had good experience with them.


----------



## prognosis82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> My monitors are right next to my window, sun shining into the room. As long as the sunshine is not directly on the monitors (or myself), I don't have a problem with it. It comes down to personal preference, since some people notice it much faster than others. If it gets really bad, I appreciate my curtains, but it rarely gets to that.
> 
> As far as sellers go, you can clearly see what's good under the reviews on ebay. I've bought both of mine from Accessories Whole, so that's the only store I can give my opinion on, and I have had good experience with them.


Think I'll go with the Glossy then.
I'm still a bit worried about ordering this one though:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e998e4ea3&rmvSB=true

The paranoid me is thinking they put that listing on deal so they can get rid of some of their crappy panels.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> Think I'll go with the Glossy then.
> I'm still a bit worried about ordering this one though:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e998e4ea3&rmvSB=true
> 
> The paranoid me is thinking they put that listing on deal so they can get rid of some of their crappy panels.


I bought my new one (got it last week) off of that deal. It was pretty much identical to the first one I bought.


----------



## dekoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Yes, that is the correct model for overclocking since it only has a single input (DVI).
> 
> There is no point in buying "Pixel Perfect". Both mine weren't Pixel Perfect editions, but both came with 0 pixels.
> 
> If you're set on a Glossy edition, this is cheaper:
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e998e4ea3


I've bought from this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131431596999?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e99ef03c7 (accessorieswhole) about a week or so ago. Ordered on Saturday, arrived on Wednesday, had to pay £39 custom charge when delivered (cash or credit card to UPS). No dead pixels, slight BLB but can only see it when screen showing black (might open it up in future, looks like the frame is a bit bent). I've overclocked to 96Hz within minutes with no issues (my gfx won't pull more frames), though will try max when i get a chance (and time).
I'm amazed by colour/size/extra resolution but I've moved from 20inch Samsung TN so might be biased








I went for glossy since it's in north facing room with no direct sunlight.


----------



## prognosis82

Just ordered mine, thanks for the advice guys.
Will update on arrival! Fingers crossed for a good panel


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dekoder*
> 
> I've bought from this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131431596999?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e99ef03c7 (accessorieswhole) about a week or so ago. Ordered on Saturday, arrived on Wednesday, had to pay £39 custom charge when delivered (cash or credit card to UPS). No dead pixels, slight BLB but can only see it when screen showing black (might open it up in future, looks like the frame is a bit bent). I've overclocked to 96Hz within minutes with no issues (my gfx won't pull more frames), though will try max when i get a chance (and time).
> I'm amazed by colour/size/extra resolution but I've moved from 20inch Samsung TN so might be biased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went for glossy since it's in north facing room with no direct sunlight.


Pretty much same scenario as me. Monitor also never sees direct sunlight. The slight backlight bleed is a tiny price to pay considering what you get for the money with this monitor. And even if it does bother you, most people open up their monitor to remove the foot and put it on another monitor stand anyways. While doing that, might as well do an easy BLB fix and you're good to go. Mine won't go past 103-105Hz, but that seems like the norm for the newer models. I'm perfectly fine with 96Hz tbh


----------



## prognosis82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dekoder*
> 
> I've bought from this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131431596999?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e99ef03c7 (accessorieswhole) about a week or so ago. Ordered on Saturday, arrived on Wednesday, had to pay £39 custom charge when delivered (cash or credit card to UPS). No dead pixels, slight BLB but can only see it when screen showing black (might open it up in future, looks like the frame is a bit bent). I've overclocked to 96Hz within minutes with no issues (my gfx won't pull more frames), though will try max when i get a chance (and time).
> I'm amazed by colour/size/extra resolution but I've moved from 20inch Samsung TN so might be biased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went for glossy since it's in north facing room with no direct sunlight.


Do you have to pay the UPS delivery driver or can you do it online?
Also, I assume it comes with the DVI-D cable required?


----------



## dekoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prognosis82*
> 
> Do you have to pay the UPS delivery driver or can you do it online?
> Also, I assume it comes with the DVI-D cable required?


They gave me options of cash (with receipt) or by credit card by phone to customs. They wouldn't give me the parcel without paying first.

It did come with the DVI-D cable.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilonk*
> 
> So I received my monitor today and stupidly realised I ordered the wrong version (single input, SE). It won't even overclock to 70hz without red lines across the screen. Does anyone else have the SE version and have overclock issues? I wasn't aware the SE version was the same as the off-grade, ah well.


mine and a few others on here are SE "perfect pixels" from greensum.

no issues on any of them, mine goes to 96hz perfectly


----------



## jdstock76

Silly question ....

Does anyone notice the difference when gaming between the 8ms of these and the 1ms of lets say the ASUS VG248QE?


----------



## dilonk

I bought this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:1120

Using a R9 290 and it can't even do 69hz. Am I doing something wrong? I patched drivers and am using CRU.


----------



## allindaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilonk*
> 
> I bought this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:1120
> 
> Using a R9 290 and it can't even do 69hz. Am I doing something wrong? I patched drivers and am using CRU.


I'm not sure if anything has changed recently but last I heard the Evolution II's did not OC as well as the single input QX2710 (DVI-D Dual Link)


----------



## dilonk

It is the single input, only things on back of monitor is dvi-d, audio jack and AC jack, unless I'm completely wrong. Am just hoping I'm messing something up cause I'd rather not pay the shipping to get this returned and buy a better version.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allindaze*
> 
> I'm not sure if anything has changed recently but last I heard the Evolution II's did not OC as well as the single input QX2710 (DVI-D Dual Link)


Evo 2 has nothing to do with whether it's single input or not. The ones to stay away from if you want to OC is the TRUE10 versions, since they're multi input. The monitor he bought is the right one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilonk*
> 
> It is the single input, only things on back of monitor is dvi-d, audio jack and AC jack, unless I'm completely wrong. Am just hoping I'm messing something up cause I'd rather not pay the shipping to get this returned and buy a better version.


I don't know what's wrong though, but AMD cards seem to be a bit of a hassle, so you're gonna have to wait for someone with an AMD card's input for that.


----------



## Linxus

Recently joined the QX2710 club and wish I had done so sooner. I ordered mine from NewEgg (Single Input Dual DVI): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1GM6846

However, I can't seem to get the monitor past 96HZ no matter which overclocking guide I follow. I originally attempted to overclock with a GTX 760, and then upgraded to a R9 290X, but neither seem to make a difference. I was hoping for at least 110HZ. When I had the GTX 970, I used the NVIDIA Control Panel to get to 96HZ and with the R9 290X I used CRU. Even with the tightened timings as per the screenshot in the OP, I was not able to get past 96HZ without getting image burn in and distortion.

Anyone have any other ideas on this, or am I stuck with 96HZ?


----------



## djdynamite123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Linxus*
> 
> Recently joined the QX2710 club and wish I had done so sooner. I ordered mine from NewEgg (Single Input Dual DVI): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1GM6846
> 
> However, I can't seem to get the monitor past 96HZ no matter which overclocking guide I follow. I originally attempted to overclock with a GTX 760, and then upgraded to a R9 290X, but neither seem to make a difference. I was hoping for at least 110HZ. When I had the GTX 970, I used the NVIDIA Control Panel to get to 96HZ and with the R9 290X I used CRU. Even with the tightened timings as per the screenshot in the OP, I was not able to get past 96HZ without getting image burn in and distortion.
> 
> Anyone have any other ideas on this, or am I stuck with 96HZ?


Are you using the supplied cable that came with the monitor? I am, I got my monitor February 2014, it's been a dream. Certain AMD drivers ruin the overclock a little somehow. I once was able to do 110 without any altered timings, that then dropped to 105, and now i'm at 100Hz and have been for several months. Anything more than 104Hz gives distortion to the right hand side at top and middle area (either AMD drivers contribute to it and the not exactly the best money can buy DVI cable). 100Hz is a nice even number, and spot egg for me.

[EDIT] I use the supplied cable if that helps. Also I leave my desktop refresh rate at 75Hz with the adjusted Back Porch timing so the memory on GPU clocks down. My particular monitor was an absolute godsend, not a snish of BLB, I made certain the seller waited and waited for the most perfect panel before sending me. same goes for the perfect pixel (not one) ...I cant stress enough how awful going back to 1080p really is. I had a 24" BenQ RTS Pro Monitor and that looks awful in comparison, 1080p with games like Battlefield 3/4 look woeful at 1080p. PS: My wife has almost identical PC to me except for the 2x 1080p monitors I once had and a R9 270X instead. Obviously she's fine with that, but she clearly sees the candy of 1440p or higher.

Anyway, 96Hz is usually the most common everyone can often achieve, but some can manage 120, lottery game i'm afraid.

I'd love if there was a 31/32 or 33" 4K 144Hz G-Sync/Freesync supported monitor, not just one or the other for £500 or so, that'd be the bomb. Until something like that exists where it doesn't feel like a con i'm staying with this unless a Freesync 4k monitor was at the £400 mark.


----------



## fullban

right I have received my extra 2 monitors (bought second hand 1s for debezeling purposes)

I have purchased a bizlink dp 2 dvi active adapter and can only get it to overclock to 80hz anything above that it wont even show in CRU

I have heard that some people have gotten to 100hz with certain active adapters is there anything I could try to make it go higher like tighter timings?

all connected to dvi

1st monitor upto 123hz without lines
2nd monitor upto 123hz without lines
3rd monitor upto 132hz without lines

all connected to bizlink adapter

80hz









there must be a solution to this ,I wouldn't mind if it could stretch to 100hz

toastyx said in his post here that theses cables that have 3d support can go upto 100hz
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher?page=27

this is the adapter I got which is the same as toastys linked adapter (3d supported) different brand name
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391117567930?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
here is more info on my model number
http://www.amazon.co.uk/HP-DisplayPort-Dual-Adapter-492329-003/dp/B00I4ZY40U

toastyx said in his post here that theses cables that have 3d support can go upto 100hz
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher?page=27


----------



## blado

I'm posting this here only because I have no idea where else to post it. Earlier today I turned my computer and monitor on but left before it finished startup. When I got back around 10-15 minutes later. The monitor was displaying random uniform color screens. At one point it would be a completely uniform shade of green, and then a couple seconds later it would switch to blue, etc. It was acting exactly like how you would expect a screensaver to act, and that's what I thought it might be at first. However, when I moved my mouse and press random keys in an attempt to "wake up" the computer, nothing happened, and it continued to randomly display colors.

At this point I turned off the computer, turned it back on, and everything was normal again. I checked my event log to see if some random driver failed somehow, but all was normal there. I should also note that I have to enter a password to login, so the computer never made it to the desktop page on its own. It was at the login screen for Windows 8.1 when I assume this happened.

Since nothing seemed wrong with my computer, does it possibly have to do with my HDMI cable? I'm using the default one that came with the QNIX. I'm also overclocked to 96 Hz


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blado*
> 
> I'm posting this here only because I have no idea where else to post it. Earlier today I turned my computer and monitor on but left before it finished startup. When I got back around 10-15 minutes later. The monitor was displaying random uniform color screens. At one point it would be a completely uniform shade of green, and then a couple seconds later it would switch to blue, etc. It was acting exactly like how you would expect a screensaver to act, and that's what I thought it might be at first. However, when I moved my mouse and press random keys in an attempt to "wake up" the computer, nothing happened, and it continued to randomly display colors.
> 
> At this point I turned off the computer, turned it back on, and everything was normal again. I checked my event log to see if some random driver failed somehow, but all was normal there. I should also note that I have to enter a password to login, so the computer never made it to the desktop page on its own. It was at the login screen for Windows 8.1 when I assume this happened.
> 
> Since nothing seemed wrong with my computer, does it possibly have to do with my HDMI cable? I'm using the default one that came with the QNIX. I'm also overclocked to 96 Hz


check your connections

maybe loose connector wire inside monitor ,im sure I read about this happening to some1 else


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Silly question ....
> 
> Does anyone notice the difference when gaming between the 8ms of these and the 1ms of lets say the ASUS VG248QE?


Not a silly question at all, but to many people think the monitors stated specs of "X"ms response time is an accurate measurement of input lag when in fact it can be quite inaccurate! ... Quick answer, no the single input QNIX's aren't as fast as the VQ248QE but they are not far off ... certainly not as far off as 8ms response time would suggest!

For example the QNIX single-input is significantly faster than the QNIX True10 muti-input with a 6ms spec. This is because the single-input has no scaler for various inputs which can cause significant lag! See my comments *HERE* ...

Member "Swolern" has owned the overclocked Korean panels (8ms), the Swift 144Hz (1ms) and now owns the Acer XB270HU (4ms) the fastest 27" 1440p gaming monitor on the planet.. And he confirms (I really trust his input) that he can see no difference in response times between the Swift and Acer ... and his overclocked Koreans were slightly slower with more "overshoot" but IPS just blows away a TN panel in clarity and color quality ... I have also owned the Swift and would concur with his observations, and $300 vs $800?, I returned the Swift, bad QC, horrible AG, colors, and inverting pixels ... for me if the XB270HU came in a glossy and they iron out their initial QC problems I'd probably have made the switch or will in the future

Take my word unless your a pro-gamer you won't be disappointed with the QNIX single-input lag times








More comments *HERE* and *HERE* and my posts inbetween? ... or go do an advanced search for user Swolern *HERE* ... lots of great comments/info many of us have already gone through relating to the decision your trying to make









If your not into lot's of reading, you should be for a critical monitor purchase, see Swolerns single post/answer's to some of my questions *HERE* ...









TfT uses some high-tech testing gear and shows the 4ms ACER as having slightly less input lag than the 1ms Swift!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilonk*
> 
> I bought this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/131425259171?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:1120
> 
> Using a R9 290 and it can't even do 69hz. Am I doing something wrong? I patched drivers and am using CRU.


Bummer ... this is the 1st single-input QNIX I have seen in over a year that wouldn't do at least 96Hz








Try a different cable ...
Try a different GPU, preferably Nvidia for testing ...
Try a friends whole different rig ...

Since your sure it's single-input, only other thing I can think of is they put the wrong PCB in there at the factory








And since there are no quarantees of an OC this puts you in tough situation ... return shipping is to much ($150?) so put it on ebay it will sell quickly for $210-$240 if it has no dead pixels. ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> right I have received my extra 2 monitors (bought second hand 1s for debezeling purposes)
> 
> I have purchased a bizlink dp 2 dvi active adapter and can only get it to overclock to 80hz anything above that it wont even show in CRU
> 
> I have heard that some people have gotten to 100hz with certain active adapters is there anything I could try to make it go higher like tighter timings?
> 
> all connected to dvi
> 
> 1st monitor upto 123hz without lines
> 2nd monitor upto 123hz without lines
> 3rd monitor upto 132hz without lines
> 
> all connected to bizlink adapter
> 
> 80hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there must be a solution to this ,I wouldn't mind if it could stretch to 100hz


Yep most guys will get to 96Hz, you'll have to try another active adapter since obviously you hit the lottery for 3 monitors all OC'ing 120Hz+++ on DVI ... Roland will chime in with more details on active adapters, he's been through a few himself ... or do and advanced search for his user name ...


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> r
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ight I have received my extra 2 monitors (bought second hand 1s for debezeling purposes)
> 
> I have purchased a bizlink dp 2 dvi active adapter and can only get it to overclock to 80hz anything above that it wont even show in CRU
> 
> I have heard that some people have gotten to 100hz with certain active adapters is there anything I could try to make it go higher like tighter timings?
> 
> all connected to dvi
> 
> 1st monitor upto 123hz without lines
> 2nd monitor upto 123hz without lines
> 3rd monitor upto 132hz without lines
> 
> all connected to bizlink adapter
> 
> 80hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there must be a solution to this ,I wouldn't mind if it could stretch to 100hz
> 
> toastyx said in his post here that theses cables that have 3d support can go upto 100hz
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher?page=27
> 
> this is the adapter I got which is the same as toastys linked adapter (3d supported) different brand name
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391117567930?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> here is more info on my model number
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/HP-DisplayPort-Dual-Adapter-492329-003/dp/B00I4ZY40U
> 
> toastyx said in his post here that theses cables that have 3d support can go upto 100hz
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher?page=27


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Not a silly question at all, but to many people think the monitors stated specs of "X"ms response time is an accurate measurement of input lag when in fact it can be quite inaccurate! ... Quick answer, no the single input QNIX's aren't as fast as the VQ248QE but they are not far off ... certainly not as far off as 8ms response time would suggest!
> 
> For example the QNIX single-input is significantly faster than the QNIX True10 muti-input with a 6ms spec. This is because the single-input has no scaler for various inputs which can cause significant lag! See my comments *HERE* ...
> 
> Member "Swolern" has owned the overclocked Korean panels (8ms), the Swift 144Hz (1ms) and now owns the Acer XB270HU (4ms) the fastest 27" 1440p gaming monitor on the planet.. And he confirms (I really trust his input) that he can see no difference in response times between the Swift and Acer ... and his overclocked Koreans were slightly slower with more "overshoot" but IPS just blows away a TN panel in clarity and color quality ... I have also owned the Swift and would concur with his observations, and $300 vs $800?, I returned the Swift, bad QC, horrible AG, colors, and inverting pixels ... for me if the XB270HU came in a glossy and they iron out their initial QC problems I'd probably have made the switch or will in the future
> 
> Take my word unless your a pro-gamer you won't be disappointed with the QNIX single-input lag times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More comments *HERE* and *HERE* and my posts inbetween? ... or go do an advanced search for user Swolern *HERE* ... lots of great comments/info many of us have already gone through relating to the decision your trying to make
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your not into lot's of reading, you should be for a critical monitor purchase, see Swolerns single post/answer's to some of my questions *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TfT uses some high-tech testing gear and shows the 4ms ACER as having slightly less input lag than the 1ms Swift!
> 
> Bummer ... this is the 1st single-input QNIX I have seen in over a year that wouldn't do at least 96Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try a different cable ...
> Try a different GPU, preferably Nvidia for testing ...
> Try a friends whole different rig ...
> 
> Since your sure it's single-input, only other thing I can think of is they put the wrong PCB in there at the factory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And since there are no quarantees of an OC this puts you in tough situation ... return shipping is to much ($150?) so put it on ebay it will sell quickly for $210-$240 if it has no dead pixels. ...
> Yep most guys will get to 96Hz, you'll have to try another active adapter since obviously you hit the lottery for 3 monitors all OC'ing 120Hz+++ on DVI ... Roland will chime in with more details on active adapters, he's been through a few himself ... or do and advanced search for his user name ...


Yup, I will chime in. I use the Accell one Toasty referenced (model B087B-007B). The testing I did showed frame skipping above 90Hz. The Accell non-3D version wouldn't drive the monitor at all (I have both). I currently have it connected to my laptop. Not overclocking it since the laptop have intel/Nvidia auto swapping GPUs that I'm not too familiar with.


----------



## fullban

thanks for the info

I suppose I will just keep this adapter as I can squeeze 85hz

I am mostly using 3x qnix for eyefinity wide hopefully wont notice the difference as I will be looking mainly at the centre monitor

why cant the graphics card just have 3 dual dvi







ow well


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> thanks for the info
> 
> I suppose I will just keep this adapter as I can squeeze 85hz
> 
> I am mostly using 3x qnix for eyefinity wide hopefully wont notice the difference as I will be looking mainly at the centre monitor
> 
> why cant the graphics card just have 3 dual dvi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ow well


That would be nice. I use Nvidia GPUs in SLI for my three, so I can connect them all to DVI ports.


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> That would be nice. I use Nvidia GPUs in SLI for my three, so I can connect them all to DVI ports.


so if I was to get NVidia cards in sli I can have them all running @ 120hz even in game?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> so if I was to get NVidia cards in sli I can have them all running @ 120hz even in game?


yes and no.

3 monitors will show up as one and will all be locked to the same OC which is the good news

in order to enable SLI you need to have all the monitors hooked up to one card. which is the bad news


----------



## fullban

so same situation for playing games but good for desktop use I guess

thanks for the info


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> yes and no.
> 
> 3 monitors will show up as one and will all be locked to the same OC which is the good news
> 
> in order to enable SLI you need to have all the monitors hooked up to one card. which is the bad news


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> so same situation for playing games but good for desktop use I guess
> 
> thanks for the info


This is not necessarily correct. The three show up as one when in Surround. For Surround, you do not have to be all connected to the same GPU. I usually have mine at 96Hz in Surround, and it works fine. While in surround, the two GPUs are also SLI'd.

If you are in SLI, but Not in surround, then the monitors show up as separate monitors, but only the ones connected to the primary GPU (the one closest to the CPU) will work.


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> This is not necessarily correct. The three show up as one when in Surround. For Surround, you do not have to be all connected to the same GPU. I usually have mine at 96Hz in Surround, and it works fine. While in surround, the two GPUs are also SLI'd.
> 
> If you are in SLI, but Not in surround, then the monitors show up as separate monitors, but only the ones connected to the primary GPU (the one closest to the CPU) will work.


argh iv had a brain fart! haha confusing me that!

can I play a game while both cards are being used and across all screens @120hz

haha thanks


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> argh iv had a brain fart! haha confusing me that!
> 
> can I play a game while both cards are being used and across all screens @120hz
> 
> haha thanks


Probably ( I won't guarantee your video cards could drive all three at that speed). I've done it at 110Hz. One of mine won't go above that.


----------



## Jesse36m3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> This is not necessarily correct. The three show up as one when in Surround. For Surround, you do not have to be all connected to the same GPU. I usually have mine at 96Hz in Surround, and it works fine. While in surround, the two GPUs are also SLI'd.
> 
> If you are in SLI, but Not in surround, then the monitors show up as separate monitors, but only the ones connected to the primary GPU (the one closest to the CPU) will work.


So with these monitors, we are limited to three D-DVI ports, but only two are on a single card. Why even go back into SLI mode when in surround the gpus are SLI'd as you mention? Are you still harnessing the power of both gpus in surround?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jesse36m3*
> 
> So with these monitors, we are limited to three D-DVI ports, but only two are on a single card. Why even go back into SLI mode when in surround the gpus are SLI'd as you mention? Are you still harnessing the power of both gpus in surround?


Yes, in Surround you are also in SLI. However, there are games that don't like surround.Some look very strange being stretched across three screens. For these, you may want to come out of surround, but still want the power of SLI.


----------



## 2010ngojo

Hey guys, I'm a first time buyer or soon to be at least. I am planning on getting the QNIX. I was thinking of over clocking the monitor to at least 100hz and my GPU is a 280x, so 1 DVI-D output. Glossy or semi-matte is fine for me.

From my understanding this is the model I should be looking for (from best to worst):

- QX2710 PLS single input DVI-D (non-SE) would be the best

- avoid multi-input or multi-input true10 unless I'm okay with 85hz and the input lag

- definitely avoid true10 unless I really need 10-bit

- avoid the SE if possible

- don't bother with "pixel perfect"

- avoid off-grade panels

This seems like it would best fit what I'm looking for:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f4e53c3d

Any suggestions or thoughts?


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm a first time buyer or soon to be at least. I am planning on getting the QNIX. I was thinking of over clocking the monitor to at least 100hz and my GPU is a 280x, so 1 DVI-D output. Glossy or semi-matte is fine for me.
> 
> From my understanding this is the model I should be looking for (from best to worst):
> 
> - QX2710 PLS single input DVI-D (non-SE) would be the best
> 
> - avoid multi-input or multi-input true10 unless I'm okay with 85hz and the input lag
> 
> - definitely avoid true10 unless I really need 10-bit
> 
> - avoid the SE if possible
> 
> - don't bother with "pixel perfect"
> 
> - avoid off-grade panels
> 
> This seems like it would best fit what I'm looking for:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f4e53c3d
> 
> Any suggestions or thoughts?


Same one I'm watching. Just waiting on PayPal to release my funds.


----------



## 2010ngojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Same one I'm watching. Just waiting on PayPal to release my funds.


It doesn't really specify if it's SE or not. I assume SE is rare to get considering it's 2015.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> It doesn't really specify if it's SE or not. I assume SE is rare to get considering it's 2015.


I see a ton of SE and they're usually listed with the SE in the title.


----------



## 2010ngojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I see a ton of SE and they're usually listed with the SE in the title.


Sorry, I meant its rare to get non-SE considering it's 2015. Non-SE is more rare than SE I assume?


----------



## ZeVo

Any here running one of these suckers with a single 970? If so, how is it? Really considering picking one up as I've had my eye on these things for 2 years, but finally got a decent card.


----------



## juaner92

okay i got my Qinix an happy costumber only a little rlly little blackbleed at the right down corner nothing u can see until u satare rlly hard.

i'm using the HDMI port cauase my NVIDIA 970 dinnt reconigzed the DVI-D port


----------



## 2010ngojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juaner92*
> 
> okay i got my Qinix an happy costumber only a little rlly little blackbleed at the right down corner nothing u can see until u satare rlly hard.
> 
> i'm using the HDMI port cauase my NVIDIA 970 dinnt reconigzed the DVI-D port


Can you OC past 85hz without frame drop?


----------



## juaner92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> Can you OC past 85hz without frame drop?


yeah no problemo! but well i will use the monitor for graphic desgne so 85hz is perfect for me! i want this monitor true 10 for teh color no for gaming


----------



## X79guy

I ordered a glossy qnix from green-sum and I am absolutely beyond disappointed. I have a tempered glass qnix that uses a LTM270DL02 panel and it has vivid colors with a nice accurate color temp. This new version (I didn't order the SE version btw) has a terrible green tint, and the gamma looks like its set way to high. I am guessing the new one is a LTM270DL07? Needless to say, its going back. How am I going to get ahold of an 02 or 06?


----------



## juaner92

how do u know if you are using the 10 bit color? i have a nvidia 970. and the monitor is connected via HDMI 1.4


----------



## markfuss

I am completely new to world of Qnix monitors and I am strongly considering the purchase of the QX2710 Evolution II Matte model. Can someone please tell me the difference between these two, other than the price?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491?rmvSB=true
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f
Thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## fullban

I have my monitors setup

290 crossfire

1 dp2dvi @ 85hz
1 dvi @ 120hz
1 dvi @ 120hz

when I create an eyefinty group I am stuck at 60hz there is no option to go more

what am I doing wrong?


----------



## 2010ngojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markfuss*
> 
> I am completely new to world of Qnix monitors and I am strongly considering the purchase of the QX2710 Evolution II Matte model. Can someone please tell me the difference between these two, other than the price?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/131121204491?rmvSB=true
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f
> Thanks in advance for the help.


The cheaper one has an off grade panel, meaning it has noticeable defects. Get the non off grade when if you don't want the panel defects. Search off grade if you want to know more.


----------



## equivilency

Originally Posted by markfuss
Quote:


> I am completely new to world of Qnix monitors and I am strongly considering the purchase of the QX2710 Evolution II Matte model. Can someone please tell me the difference between these two, other than the price?


I would go for the pricier option. As far as panel defects, hard to say. In theory 2010ngojo is right, but AccessoriesWhole checks the panels for defects before they ship. I personally wouldn't take any chances with the lesser quality screen. Did you not like the glossy screen version? I love it


----------



## 2010ngojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equivilency*
> 
> Originally Posted by markfuss
> I would go for the pricier option. As far as panel defects, hard to say. In theory 2010ngojo is right, but AccessoriesWhole checks the panels for defects before they ship. I personally wouldn't take any chances with the lesser quality screen. Did you not like the glossy screen version? I love it


Well I assume the seller check the monitor and discovered that it has defects, hence why they listed it as off grade. Why list something with a cheaper price unless there's a noticeable defect?

On a side note, does anyone know if the qnix monitor works with any adapters? Like HDMI or DP adapters. And have anyone tried using the monitor with a laptop with those adapters as well? I know they say you can't use it with on board graphics, but who knows, things can change.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> Well I assume the seller check the monitor and discovered that it has defects, hence why they listed it as off grade. Why list something with a cheaper price unless there's a noticeable defect?
> 
> On a side note, does anyone know if the qnix monitor works with any adapters? Like HDMI or DP adapters. And have anyone tried using the monitor with a laptop with those adapters as well? I know they say you can't use it with on board graphics, but who knows, things can change.


Not from personal experience but from some users here report it working with *active* DP to DVI adapters.
Here's a DisplayPort to DVI-D adapter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00856WJH8

You can search for active DP to DVI in this thread. I don't know about it working with laptops though.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> Well I assume the seller check the monitor and discovered that it has defects, hence why they listed it as off grade. Why list something with a cheaper price unless there's a noticeable defect?
> 
> On a side note, does anyone know if the qnix monitor works with any adapters? Like HDMI or DP adapters. And have anyone tried using the monitor with a laptop with those adapters as well? I know they say you can't use it with on board graphics, but who knows, things can change.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Not from personal experience but from some users here report it working with *active* DP to DVI adapters.
> Here's a DisplayPort to DVI-D adapter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00856WJH8
> 
> You can search for active DP to DVI in this thread. I don't know about it working with laptops though.


The adapter linked above will work. It may work on a laptop. Mine is connected to my Asus laptop right now, and works fine. I have not tried overclocking the monitor while connected to my laptop though. The adapter will limit your overclock. Mine skips frames above 90Hz (can go to 120Hz connected directly to DVI port on my GPU).


----------



## m4n715

Does anyone know what the results would be if you tried to drive one of the single input panels with a single link dvi signal?
I'm interested in what would happen if I tried to connect a laptop (which only has hdmi). Hdmi to dual link adapters don't exist, so I would have to go hdmi to single link.
Would this just not work? Or would I be able to drive the screen at 1080p?


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m4n715*
> 
> Does anyone know what the results would be if you tried to drive one of the single input panels with a single link dvi signal?
> I'm interested in what would happen if I tried to connect a laptop (which only has hdmi). Hdmi to dual link adapters don't exist, so I would have to go hdmi to single link.
> Would this just not work? Or would I be able to drive the screen at 1080p?


You just get a scrambled screen. At least that's what I got when I tried it.


----------



## kaurapuuro8

Hi,

i have one broken backlight led on bottom left corner of my Qnix. Do you guys know is it possible to change that broken led? My monitos have already been debezeled so no problem there


----------



## Yanoflies

Would anybody recommend I get a Tempest X270OC second hand? Do I have to worry about the lifetime of these monitors?


----------



## 2010ngojo

Is this listing good?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111482846269?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Linxus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> Is this listing good?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/111482846269?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Seems like an okay deal to me. Just note that it's the glossy version


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X79guy*
> 
> I ordered a glossy qnix from green-sum and I am absolutely beyond disappointed. I have a tempered glass qnix that uses a LTM270DL02 panel and it has vivid colors with a nice accurate color temp. This new version (I didn't order the SE version btw) has a terrible green tint, and the gamma looks like its set way to high. I am guessing the new one is a LTM270DL07? Needless to say, its going back. How am I going to get ahold of an 02 or 06?


sound like you got an 07

the only way to get an 02 is to order a matte panel now. the glossy ones have been discontinued for at least 3 years now and are hard to find unless someone specifically states that it is an 02


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> sound like you got an 07
> 
> the only way to get an 02 is to order a matte panel now. the glossy ones have been discontinued for at least 3 years now and are hard to find unless someone specifically states that it is an 02


Is the gamma and green tint problem in all the 07 panels? My new Qnix is a 07 as well, but I never noticed anything like that.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Is the gamma and green tint problem in all the 07 panels? My new Qnix is a 07 as well, but I never noticed anything like that.


its been mentioned before, some panels are worse than others. the only way youll ever notice it is if you have another montior next to it

i fixed my slight green hue in NVCP by dropping the green brightness 5-7%.

but i think the only way X79guy will be able to fix it is if he runs the monitors in seperate mode, i dont think you can adjust them in surround mode as its seen as one panel


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> its been mentioned before, some panels are worse than others. the only way youll ever notice it is if you have another montior next to it
> 
> i fixed my slight green hue in NVCP by dropping the green brightness 5-7%.
> 
> but i think the only way X79guy will be able to fix it is if he runs the monitors in seperate mode, i dont think you can adjust them in surround mode as its seen as one panel


I already have two. Don't remember what the first one was though, might be a 07 model as well, it's over a year old now.

I don't notice any difference (other than brightness at first, but that was a 10 second fix ofc). I might have to run some color test/calibration


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> I already have two. Don't remember what the first one was though, might be a 07 model as well, it's over a year old now.
> 
> I don't notice any difference (other than brightness at first, but that was a 10 second fix ofc). I might have to run some color test/calibration


if all 3 look the same theyre probably all 07's


----------



## X79guy

If you do not notice it then don't go looking for it. It will drive you crazy. I just happen to have a few calibrated displays so it is extremely noticeable/unacceptable to me.


----------



## TheLaneDog

Hey there, just updated my AMD drivers from 13.12 to 15.4 to get the best performance in GTA, but my monitor stopped working. I've tried reinstalling the driver several times, but every time, my screen flashes all sorts of colors. I have a feeling that the monitor's firmware is outdated. Does anyone know how I can fix this?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLaneDog*
> 
> Hey there, just updated my AMD drivers from 13.12 to 15.4 to get the best performance in GTA, but my monitor stopped working. I've tried reinstalling the driver several times, but every time, my screen flashes all sorts of colors. I have a feeling that the monitor's firmware is outdated. Does anyone know how I can fix this?


Kind if looks like maybe you are sending it a resolution/frequency it can't handle. I'm using 15.4 with mine and it works okay, so I don't think it's anything on the hardware/firmware side (and I doubt you can do anything firmware-wise to the monitor anyway).

Maybe try safe mode?


----------



## TheLaneDog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Kind if looks like maybe you are sending it a resolution/frequency it can't handle. I'm using 15.4 with mine and it works okay, so I don't think it's anything on the hardware/firmware side (and I doubt you can do anything firmware-wise to the monitor anyway).
> 
> Maybe try safe mode?


I just reset CRU and now things seem like they're back to normal. Thanks man!


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> 
> 
> try these tighter settings in cru, I could only achieve 110hz until I changed settings also try different cables


can i use this with an nvidia card?


----------



## balumonitor

Excellent wallpapers sites with 1440p wallpapers:
http://www.tomswallpapers.com there is cropping for each wallpaper.
http://wallpapers.ws
wallpaperswide.com


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLaneDog*
> 
> I just reset CRU and now things seem like they're back to normal. Thanks man!


My monitor screwed up the other day while playing GTA V. It looked similar to yours though not as bad. I could still make out the image there were just alot of vertical green lines on the screen and horizontal grey bars. I reset the computer and that didn't fix it. Then I switched around the DVI ports which cleared up the image partially. Then I did reset on CLU, which improved it a little more. Then I reinstalled the driver which got it almost back to normal. Then finally I set Alternate DVI Operational Mode in Catalyst Control Center, which finally got the monitor back to looking normal.


----------



## electro2u

Having to use CRU was why i switched to nvidia. Thinking about switching back because i cant seem to get rid of my 295x2. Cru works its just a pain that it disables copy protection handshake. Have to disable cru to run blu rays.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Having to use CRU was why i switched to nvidia. Thinking about switching back because i cant seem to get rid of my 295x2. Cru works its just a pain that it disables copy protection handshake. Have to disable cru to run blu rays.


CRU does not affect HDCP. The driver patch does.


----------



## 2010ngojo

I know this have been answered before, but do the buttons on the underside of the monitor do anything (besides the power button of course)? Some people say the brightness can be changed by the buttons, but it doesn't look like it works to me.

Secondly, is there anything similar to light boost for these monitors. I ran the ufo test at 120hz and notice some slight ghosting. The asus vg248qe eliminated that issue with light boost enabled.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> I know this have been answered before, but do the buttons on the underside of the monitor do anything (besides the power button of course)? Some people say the brightness can be changed by the buttons, but it doesn't look like it works to me.
> 
> Secondly, is there anything similar to light boost for these monitors. I ran the ufo test at 120hz and notice some slight ghosting. The asus vg248qe eliminated that issue with light boost enabled.


Yes, the other two buttons are brightness controls. They work on all three of mine.

No, there is no light boost on these monitors.


----------



## Dainius

Hello everyone! This is one heck of a thread here. I recently received my QNIX 2710 yesterday and am loving it! Getting used to 1440p can be quit daunting at first.
One question I have is it does not seem to matter what OC I have set, 80,96,110 etc, I randomly get a screen with a whole lot of artifacting on it. Not the screen I am looking at, a whole new one it flips to. Running on a 7950 ad followed OC guide in this thread.

Oddly it does not happen while gaming, only web surfing. I couldn't locate on google and this thread is too massive to read through for that so hoping others have seen this before.
BTW using same cable supplied with monitor if that matters. Set on 110hz for now and haven't had issue pop up yet. Definitely happens at 96hz though


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dainius*
> 
> Hello everyone! This is one heck of a thread here. I recently received my QNIX 2710 yesterday and am loving it! Getting used to 1440p can be quit daunting at first.
> One question I have is it does not seem to matter what OC I have set, 80,96,110 etc, I randomly get a screen with a whole lot of artifacting on it. Not the screen I am looking at, a whole new one it flips to. Running on a 7950 ad followed OC guide in this thread.
> 
> Oddly it does not happen while gaming, only web surfing. I couldn't locate on google and this thread is too massive to read through for that so hoping others have seen this before.
> BTW using same cable supplied with monitor if that matters. Set on 110hz for now and haven't had issue pop up yet. Definitely happens at 96hz though


If it only happens while browsing, it is most likely caused by the smooth scrolling feature in the browser. Are you using Chrome in Windows 8 mode?


----------



## Dainius

Just using Internet Explorer on 8.1


----------



## Dainius

Disabled smooth scroll in IE. Will continue to monitor. Any other suggestions?


----------



## 2010ngojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Yes, the other two buttons are brightness controls. They work on all three of mine.
> 
> No, there is no light boost on these monitors.


That's not good. My buttons doesn't seems to do anything. Brightness stays the same, and I don't even bother using the built in speakers.

Edit: never mind, the brightness changes very subtly and slowly that I dont even notice it changing.


----------



## Dainius

and happened again after disable and set at 110hz. Very odd considering I can play games for over an hour and no issues. Thoughts?


----------



## B-rock

Any way to get DSR to work with the overclock?

Is it possible to tell the monitor that it is actually 120hz so that DSR sees that as native and lets you change to 120hz as well? Or would it be a lot more complicated than that.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Can i clean my qnix matte with windex? ive had it for almost a year without cleaning it just passing a cloth only.


----------



## kaashoed

Guys, I have the glossy version and it is very annoying actually, is there any fix for this?








Something like a 27 inch protector? Can only find it for the mac :S


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Can i clean my qnix matte with windex? ive had it for almost a year without cleaning it just passing a cloth only.


i would only use a lightly damp microfiber (water only) to do an initial wipe down, then clean it up with a dry microfiber folded in fourths turning the mf each pass


----------



## fullban

just to let people no who do eyefinity with x3 qnix

I have purchased this active adapter http://www.amazon.co.uk/Accell-New-DP-Dual-Active-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8

it can overclock to 104hz with no scanlines

so very happy indeed!!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Can i clean my qnix matte with windex? ive had it for almost a year without cleaning it just passing a cloth only.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> i would only use a lightly damp microfiber (water only) to do an initial wipe down, then clean it up with a dry microfiber folded in fourths turning the mf each pass
Click to expand...

What Rob said ... and I will ad Never use anything with alcohol in it's ingredients ... I would also try to use distilled water (or heavily filtered) as some tap water has unusually high chlorine content which could also damage your screen









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaashoed*
> 
> Guys, I have the glossy version and it is very annoying actually, is there any fix for this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like a 27 inch protector? Can only find it for the mac :S


Best way is to try and control your room lighting, but you can try a polarizer/protector but most have found that to be to aggressive









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> just to let people no who do eyefinity with x3 qnix
> 
> I have purchased this active adapter http://www.amazon.co.uk/Accell-New-DP-Dual-Active-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8
> 
> it can overclock to 104hz with no scanlines
> 
> so very happy indeed!!


NICE! Glad you didn't give up on finding a suitable adaptor ... +R


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> just to let people no who do eyefinity with x3 qnix
> 
> I have purchased this active adapter http://www.amazon.co.uk/Accell-New-DP-Dual-Active-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8
> 
> it can overclock to 104hz with no scanlines
> 
> so very happy indeed!!


Have you checked it for frame skipping?


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> Have you checked it for frame skipping?


I just done a test with iPhone 5 that ok?


----------



## fullban

oh I forgot its the display on the left:kookoo:


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> I just done a test with iPhone 5 that ok?


What ISO setting are you using? Most phones have a ISO100. The lower ISO value, the better


----------



## fullban

how do I change that setting on iPhone 5 cant got no settings?

shoulda kept my galaxy 4 so much better


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> how do I change that setting on iPhone 5 cant got no settings?
> 
> shoulda kept my galaxy 4 so much better


Dunno, I'm not an iPhone kinda guy


----------



## fullban

these 1s look better caught more of the thing goin across the screen haha

[I
MG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2440537/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


----------



## prognosis82

So I just got my QNIX 2710 today and wow I am so impressed by the panel. I really didn't realise 1440p was such a massive step up. I went with the none pixel perfect and I'm 99% sure there are no dead pixels, colours look perfect.
I will be messing around with overclocking start of next week to well it does.
As a bonus I wasn't charged any tax/import with delivery to the UK!
Such a beautiful monitor!


----------



## Dainius

OK little more info on my issue. This happens on all OC's I have tried...All the way up to 110hz. Only happens surfing the net.
Not on desktop, games, nothing else. Tried disabling smooth mouse, tried IE, firefox, new graphics drivers. Everything I can think of.
Here is a pic. It's more like it switches completely to this screen, sometimes for couple seconds, sometimes have to restart computer.

20150430_163236.jpg 5197k .jpg file


Any thoughts on this? cannot find anything on it on google or anything else.


----------



## 3m3k

upgraded to windows 8.1 and i have issues with installing the Qnix driver from the first post. throws an error. anything different in win 8.1? had it working fine on win7. any tips?


----------



## Ramzinho

Guys i read some pages ago that multi ports monitors now can be Oced? is that right or wrong?


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Guys i read some pages ago that multi ports monitors now can be Oced? is that right or wrong?


To my knowledge they can, but not as high as the single input versions.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> upgraded to windows 8.1 and i have issues with installing the Qnix driver from the first post. throws an error. anything different in win 8.1? had it working fine on win7. any tips?


First off, if you are still running the 780s that are in your build in your sig, you don't need the driver. If you want to install it, you have to bypass the digital signature requirement. You can Google how to do this, I don't know the procedure off the top of my head.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Guys i read some pages ago that multi ports monitors now can be Oced? is that right or wrong?


According to other posts in this forum, you can overclock them to about 85Hz, above that you get frame skipping.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> To my knowledge they can, but not as high as the single input versions.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> According to other posts in this forum, you can overclock them to about 85Hz, above that you get frame skipping.


thanks guys.. that helped a lot.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Guys i read some pages ago that multi ports monitors now can be Oced? is that right or wrong?


This has been known (w/proof!) for quite sometime (since 8/14) ... I believe appx 4 guys have done it but only 2 provided the proof, it is linked in the OP but take a look *HERE* has all the info and links








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3m3k*
> 
> upgraded to windows 8.1 and i have issues with installing the Qnix driver from the first post. throws an error. anything different in win 8.1? had it working fine on win7. any tips?


If you can't find it in the OP ... I know it's listed in Lawson's OC guide *HERE* ...

Here you go ...

If using windows 8 you need to turn off Driver signature enforcement for one windows session only to install the monitor driver.. You can use the bootuituner app linked below which is a handy little tools that allows you to quickly apply Advance start up in windows 8 and turn off and on windows Driver signature enforcement!.. Or you use this link and follow the instructions ... *HERE* ...


----------



## dekoder

I have a bit of a issue with Color Sustainer.
I've had it set up for 2560x1440 at 96Hz on gtx660. I've changed few days ago to gtx680, set resolution in NVCT, re-added the Color Management profile but in Color Sustainer I don't have the 96Hz option for the resolution.


Anyone have any idea why?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dekoder*
> 
> I have a bit of a issue with Color Sustainer.
> I've had it set up for 2560x1440 at 96Hz on gtx660. I've changed few days ago to gtx680, set resolution in NVCT, re-added the Color Management profile but in Color Sustainer I don't have the 96Hz option for the resolution.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any idea why?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dekoder*
> 
> I have a bit of a issue with Color Sustainer.
> I've had it set up for 2560x1440 at 96Hz on gtx660. I've changed few days ago to gtx680, set resolution in NVCT, re-added the Color Management profile but in Color Sustainer I don't have the 96Hz option for the resolution.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any idea why?


What did you initially use to OC it to 96hz? CRU? If so, you need to re-detect the monitor and re-input your OC refresh rate in CRU. Then re-detect it in Color Sustainer as well. When you changed GPU (or graphics driver), it would have reset the monitor back to its default 60hz, so you need to do it over again. Expect to do this with every driver update as well.


----------



## dekoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> What did you initially use to OC it to 96hz? CRU? If so, you need to re-detect the monitor and re-input your OC refresh rate in CRU. Then re-detect it in Color Sustainer as well. When you changed GPU (or graphics driver), it would have reset the monitor back to its default 60hz, so you need to do it over again. Expect to do this with every driver update as well.


I'm not using CRU, its Nvidia, i've done steps as in OP for it.
And yes initially OCed it to 96Hz on gtx660.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dekoder*
> 
> I'm not using CRU, its Nvidia, i've done steps as in OP for it.
> And yes initially OCed it to 96Hz on gtx660.


OK, never tried it without CRU so cant comment on why your 96hz showed up in Nv CP with one GPU and not the other. In this case you may want to try CRU. Its never failed me in OC'ing my monitors. But I know CRU and Color Sustainer will reset to default 60hz when updating drivers or changing GPU. Which is no prob because its quick and easy to re-input the OC values.


----------



## Ramzinho

will that stand work?
*LINK*


----------



## GhettoFied

I hope this is allowed/not frowned upon in here but is anyone wanting to sell their display? If this is not allowed I'll delete my post.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I hope this is allowed/not frowned upon in here but is anyone wanting to sell their display? If this is not allowed I'll delete my post.


Check the OCN marketplace.. there were some for sale.. and keep an eye on the online deals section.. they go on sales a lot lately.


----------



## dekoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> OK, never tried it without CRU so cant comment on why your 96hz showed up in Nv CP with one GPU and not the other. In this case you may want to try CRU. Its never failed me in OC'ing my monitors. But I know CRU and Color Sustainer will reset to default 60hz when updating drivers or changing GPU. Which is no prob because its quick and easy to re-input the OC values.


Thanks for all the input.
Before trying CRU, decided to start from scratch again and managed to get it to work. I think reinstalling monitor driver helped.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Check the OCN marketplace.. there were some for sale.. and keep an eye on the online deals section.. they go on sales a lot lately.


Thanks, I'll keep an eye on there.


----------



## fullban

keep an eye on ebay I bought 2 more qnix off there about 2 weeks ago

better to get the older 1s I think as you can debezel them very easy and also overclock 120hz and beyond

I paid £160 for 1 that overclocked to 130hz without problem
and £180 for other no import fees or nothing


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> keep an eye on ebay I bought 2 more qnix off there about 2 weeks ago
> 
> better to get the older 1s I think as you can debezel them very easy and also overclock 120hz and beyond
> 
> I paid £160 for 1 that overclocked to 130hz without problem
> and £180 for other no import fees or nothing


yeah I'm definitely looking for one of the original ones. I think I found one on Craigslist in my area and I'm going to look at that today.


----------



## fullban

iv owned 1 since they came about must be near 2-3yrs iv had no problem with it and its been clocked to 120hz consistently throughout desktop and gaming.

hope you get a gooden


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> will that stand work?
> *LINK*


When the veterans here have some time.. can i get an answer for this?


----------



## Dainius

My issue a page back seems to be resolved with the major artifacting web surfing and running just fine in games when OC to any hz. Removed overclock on video card and gone. Just FYI for anyone having similar issue in the future.


----------



## churchwin88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> When the veterans here have some time.. can i get an answer for this?


I haven't tried it but someone else posted that it worked for them...hope this helps.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/3730#post_20298237


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> When the veterans here have some time.. can i get an answer for this?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *churchwin88*
> 
> I haven't tried it but someone else posted that it worked for them...hope this helps.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/3730#post_20298237
Click to expand...

Very popular stand, it's even in the OP I think ... for $10 get it, use to be $20+ ... But it has it's draw backs ...

Churches is the best link but here are some more *HERE* and *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dainius*
> 
> My issue a page back seems to be resolved with the major artifacting web surfing and running just fine in games when OC to any hz. Removed overclock on video card and gone. Just FYI for anyone having similar issue in the future.


Nice! very few others have had that problem ... would give you a +R if you fill in the details/specs ...


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> iv owned 1 since they came about must be near 2-3yrs iv had no problem with it and its been clocked to 120hz consistently throughout desktop and gaming.
> 
> hope you get a gooden


Just picked one up off craigslist, and it is indeed a gooden! No dead pixels, matte screen, and 02 panel!!!







All for 250$.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very popular stand, it's even in the OP I think ... for $10 get it, use to be $20+ ... But it has it's draw backs ...
> 
> Churches is the best link but here are some more *HERE* and *HERE* ...
> Nice! very few others have had that problem ... would give you a +R if you fill in the details/specs ...


+rep thanks


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> will that stand work?
> *LINK*
> 
> 
> 
> When the veterans here have some time.. can i get an answer for this?
Click to expand...

Yes it will work. Amazing stand for the money. That is what I have mine mounted on right now


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> Yes it will work. Amazing stand for the money. That is what I have mine mounted on right now


people said it doesn't hold the weight of the monitor. is that true?


----------



## wntrsnowg

I don't have any issues. My monitor is debezzeled, so it technically weighs less then the stock one. However, the weight savings is like half a pound (sorry for the U.S. units lol) at most?


----------



## wntrsnowg

By the way, selfish plug, but I am parting out my sig rig. This includes my debezzeled 110Hz QNIX mounted to the HP stand listed a few posts above. PM if interested. Otherwise have a nice day


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> By the way, selfish plug, but I am parting out my sig rig. This includes my debezzeled 110Hz QNIX mounted to the HP stand listed a few posts above. PM if interested. Otherwise have a nice day


i demand pics







i wanna see how that looks to be honest


----------



## wntrsnowg




----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> just to let people no who do eyefinity with x3 qnix
> 
> I have purchased this active adapter http://www.amazon.co.uk/Accell-New-DP-Dual-Active-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8
> 
> it can overclock to 104hz with no scanlines
> 
> so very happy indeed!!


Congrats







Thanks for posting this. This will be a good reference so ill bookmark it, since this question is frequently asked here +rep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> people said it doesn't hold the weight of the monitor. is that true?


It does hold the weight, but if you want height adjustment it slides back down after I raise it up.
This is my post that @TomcatV linked above:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Its a great stand. I have it installed on my Qnix.
> 
> Word of warning though, don't expect height adjustment. If I raise the monitor, it slides back down. Since its designed for a 22" monitor's weight. Also, this means if you want to rotate it to portrait mode, it will be touching the surface of your table and tilted (angled) upwards since you have to raise the monitor to a certain height for the panel to be perpendicular to your table.
> 
> There is a zr27 stand which is basically the same but i guess it can keep the Qnix raised because it's designed for 27". But It costs more than so for me it's not worth it. I don't need height adjustment anyway so all of this doesn't bother me.
> 
> Other than that the zr22w is pretty good. It's sturdy and keeps my Qnix from shaking unlike the awful stock stand. It's also aesthetically pleasing.


And this is another post i made about the stand:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> 
> I have it and it doesn't raise up the monitor, it just slides back down because of the weight, its designed for 22 inch monitors. So height adjustment is a no go. And turning it to portrait mode is possible but the monitor will be resting on the desk (due to the weight) therefore it will be tilted upwards and not that useful.
> I should also mention that the monitor with this stand is slightly rotated to the right, as if you're placing your hand on the top right and pushing it down. I don't notice this normally but when stand and take a few steps back and look at it from a distance its clear.
> Swivel left and right works great. Also, tilting up and down works great < this helps me when I'm tired of sitting and want to stand up a bit.
> 
> *So, get this stand if you want a sturdy replacement to the stock stand with swivel and tilt capabilities. If you want height adjustment and portrait mode, look elsewhere.*
> 
> Here are some pictures of the stand: Keep in mind that its fully raised up just because it was new, after that it just slides back down.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *PICS:*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/8mrIZkE
> 
> 
> here it is, you can see the dell stand behind
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/xa3T7gJ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/5kQzjaO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/NoDlp96
> 
> 
> This is the tallest height
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/lHuF9vY
> 
> 
> Maximum tilt
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/GwNabYX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/f75GZMu
> 
> 
> vertical rotation
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/mt5pyvf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/y95T5fP


----------



## LandonAaron

Has anyone with an overclocked Qnix and AMD noticed had high DPC latency issues? I am getting super high DPC latency while gaming. It seems that if the 2nd monitor is active (non qnix 1080p monitor at 60hz) then I get high DPC latency. If I disable the 2nd monitor it goes away. Also if I change my refresh rate in game from 60 to 96 to 60 again it goes away. Been trying to narrow down the cause of this but everytime I think I find the culprit it ends up coming back.


----------



## 3m3k

DSR + refresh rate overclock = is that possible?
I can do one or the other but not both at the same time. I run 780 SLI.


----------



## jaxdoes

I have the single-input DVI-D Qnix 2710 and for some reason I might the only person in the world who cannot overclock the Qnix 2710 past 60hz without any sort of artifacting. The artifacts only occurs on the right side of the screen I already tried different cables and even opening up the monitor itself and checked for loose wiring. I've also tested the monitor on three separate computers and all had the same problem. I've spent the past few days looking through this thread and the web and I can't find any answers so I was wondering if anybody else had issues trying to overclock at least past 60hz? I also have the 06 panel if that means anything.


----------



## kaashoed

Where can I sell this monitor effectively? I live in the Netherlands. I got the glossy version but I have way too much light in my room


----------



## Dainius

Quote:


> I have the single-input DVI-D Qnix 2710 and for some reason I might the only person in the world who cannot overclock the Qnix 2710 past 60hz without any sort of artifacting. The artifacts only occurs on the right side of the screen I already tried different cables and even opening up the monitor itself and checked for loose wiring. I've also tested the monitor on three separate computers and all had the same problem. I've spent the past few days looking through this thread and the web and I can't find any answers so I was wondering if anybody else had issues trying to overclock at least past 60hz? I also have the 06 panel if that means anything.


I had this issue except it was entire screen. Kindof like it flipped to another one entirely. I tried everything. What fixed it was removing OC on my video card. I haven't tried OC'ing the card again since I have a new one on order and won't haven any need to. Doesn't Hurt to try if yours is as well.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaxdoes*
> 
> I have the single-input DVI-D Qnix 2710 and for some reason I might the only person in the world who cannot overclock the Qnix 2710 past 60hz without any sort of artifacting. The artifacts only occurs on the right side of the screen I already tried different cables and even opening up the monitor itself and checked for loose wiring. I've also tested the monitor on three separate computers and all had the same problem. I've spent the past few days looking through this thread and the web and I can't find any answers so I was wondering if anybody else had issues trying to overclock at least past 60hz? I also have the 06 panel if that means anything.


Sounds like a "defective" panel. Your not the first to have that problem, nor the last. Most often though people that have that issue have artifacts at 60hz, and they just get worse. I guess yours is technically functioning to spec since it isn't guaranteed to overclock. I bought mine used so I knew it was a perfect panel going in, even though it only does 96hz. If you try and get another buy used if you can, I bought on ebay personally.


----------



## jyaku

Hey guys, I just picked up this monitor's glossy version . I followed the guide and got color calibration working via Color Sustainer at 96hz on a GTX 660 output but I have a few questions..

My monitors other control buttons for contrast/ brightness seem to be broken. Is there a way for me to adjust brightness/ constrast via software?

And is there a monitor driver for this? It still says Generic Monitor under windows device manager even after Color Sustainer.


----------



## Dry Bonez

people that have 3x qnix or variant mind posting pics of there triple monitor setup? I am on the verge of doing it and would like to get ideas.... another thing i would like to know, I have SLI GTX 580 and i kno that is nowhere near to drive 3 of these suckers, but i will have to downscale for now. anyway, i understand they are backwards compatible with 1080p and more. But is it me,or when you display it at,lets say, 1080p. Why doesnt it look as good as native 1080p display? Or does it look as good as a native 1080p display?


----------



## 2010ngojo

Anyone know of an adapter/converter I can use with HDMI devices for these monitor? All I see are displayport to DVI but not HDMI to DVI.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jyaku*
> 
> Hey guys, I just picked up this monitor's glossy version . I followed the guide and got color calibration working via Color Sustainer at 96hz on a GTX 660 output but I have a few questions..
> 
> My monitors other control buttons for contrast/ brightness seem to be broken. Is there a way for me to adjust brightness/ constrast via software?
> 
> And is there a monitor driver for this? It still says Generic Monitor under windows device manager even after Color Sustainer.


There is no on screen display, and holding the button doesn't always work on some peoples. If your power light is flashing then it should be working, just press it like fifteen times and see if you can change it. If it is broken, sorry that really sucks ha. Do you have a nvidia or amd gpu? You should be able to change that setting in your graphics card's control panel.


----------



## InStars

According to the news upcoming R9 390X will drop DVI-port, so it's a big deal for me, since I won't be able to overclock my monitor.
Has anyone had any experiance with adapters (dual link DVI to HDMI2.0 or mini-Displayport)?

Will my Qnix 2710 (only dual-link DVI output) be even usable with this new upcoming card?


----------



## chartiet

I cant imagine they would just completely drop the DVI port on all 390x models. Same boat.

There was that one pic but meh.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chartiet*
> 
> I cant imagine they would just completely drop the DVI port on all 390x models. Same boat.
> 
> There was that one pic but meh.


Yeah too early to tell, but DVI is still very much alive. It would be a dumb move on AMD's part this time around to just eliminate DVI ports


----------



## LandonAaron

Yeah that would be very silly. I have two monitors, and neither one have Display Ports. I guess almost all monitors have HDMI now except for these of course, but I still think DVI is what most people are using.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Yeah too early to tell, but DVI is still very much alive. It would be a dumb move on AMD's part this time around to just eliminate DVI ports


Agreed. You're already taking a very thin market and alienating have of those people off the jump. would be a very poor strategy for AMD.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Agreed. You're already taking a very thin market and alienating have of those people off the jump. would be a very poor strategy for AMD.


Yeah screw AMD if they drop DVI. They wont be getting my money if they pull crap like that. However I'm sure a vendor will add it if that is the case.


----------



## sonoma

is there any way to play my xbox one on my single input dvi xstar?


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonoma*
> 
> is there any way to play my xbox one on my single input dvi xstar?


No not really. The Korean monitors do have scalars. You could possibly find an external scalar with a hdmi to dvid converter, but it will look crap and have crazy latency.


----------



## TelFiRE

Has anyone had an issue with the monitor suddenly blinking on and off for about 30 seconds and then stopping? During this time I can't use the button to power it off.


----------



## Dainius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Has anyone had an issue with the monitor suddenly blinking on and off for about 30 seconds and then stopping? During this time I can't use the button to power it off.


I sure did. Turned out to be the crappy adapter cable it came with. Very loose. Once I can find my cable will be replacing it with a regular one for sure


----------



## Feyla

I have a Qnix QX2710 and looking at picking up a secondary monitor, not for gaming just movies, web browsing, instant messaging etc.

Should I just get another Qnix QX2710? Won't matter if it can't overclock as not gaming on it, but it will at least match my primary monitor and same resolution etc too, also probably cheaper than other 27" 1440p monitors?

Any alternatives you would recommend?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> I have a Qnix QX2710 and looking at picking up a secondary monitor, not for gaming just movies, web browsing, instant messaging etc.
> 
> Should I just get another Qnix QX2710? Won't matter if it can't overclock as not gaming on it, but it will at least match my primary monitor and same resolution etc too, also probably cheaper than other 27" 1440p monitors?
> 
> Any alternatives you would recommend?


I had a 27" 1080p monitor as a secondary monitor and you definitely notice the difference when they are two different resolutions. I now have two Qnix side by side and I obviously enjoy that more. Would I say it's worth the money? That would be a judgement call. It's not easier or more practical in any way, but it definitely looks nicer when both monitors are identical. A lot of people are ok with having two different monitors side by side and I was one of those people. I guess it's just one of those things that once you get used to, can't go back from


----------



## dgalt

For those of you with more than one of these monitors - how do you find your colors matching across monitors? I'm having a hell of a time trying to get my 3 Qnix monitors to match each other. One in particular has a much redder color profile than the other two, and so far I have had no luck going through the user-submitted ICC profiles to find one that will fix the issue.


----------



## fullban

mine are all different to each other but only really notice it on white backgrounds eg browsers ,in game its all good.
iv got 2 matt and 1 glossy in the middle they are all different, they are all 02 panels aswell.

I was going to remove the matt coating to see if it helps will post when I get around to doing it.


----------



## dgalt

Yeah, white backgrounds there is a very obvious difference in colors. When I first got these three I tried calibrating them with a Spyder4Pro, but the calibrated ICC profiles were even farther from each other than just using the defaults.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgalt*
> 
> Yeah, white backgrounds there is a very obvious difference in colors. When I first got these three I tried calibrating them with a Spyder4Pro, but the calibrated ICC profiles were even farther from each other than just using the defaults.


Maybe you are applying one calibrated color profile to all the monitors? I believe Color sustainer from @yasamoka will solve this issue since it can apply a separate color profile to each monitor.


----------



## dgalt

Nope, using Color Sustainer so I know that's not it (definitely applying correct profile to correct monitor). The profiles also had these really awful tints to them themselves (yellow/brown tint). It's a bit frustrating, esp considering how expensive the colorimeters are


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dainius*
> 
> I sure did. Turned out to be the crappy adapter cable it came with. Very loose. Once I can find my cable will be replacing it with a regular one for sure


Ah, that's a relief. Thanks. Are you talking about the power cable or the DVI cable?


----------



## Dainius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Ah, that's a relief. Thanks. Are you talking about the power cable or the DVI cable?


Sry. Power cable adapter. Mine is terrible


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dainius*
> 
> Sry. Power cable adapter. Mine is terrible


Oh, you mean the wall adapter that changes it from KR style plug to US?

Know where I can get a new one for a good price?

Thanks


----------



## Dainius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Oh, you mean the wall adapter that changes it from KR style plug to US?
> 
> Know where I can get a new one for a good price?
> 
> Thanks


Ant power cable would work.. It's the same one used that plugs into back of your computer..that style


----------



## TelFiRE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dainius*
> 
> Ant power cable would work.. It's the same one used that plugs into back of your computer..that style


Yours uses a normal power cable? Mine doesn't, it has some weird proprietary plugin that hooks into a power supply brick that hooks into a Korean plug that hooks into a US plug.


----------



## Dainius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> Yours uses a normal power cable? Mine doesn't, it has some weird proprietary plugin that hooks into a power supply brick that hooks into a Korean plug that hooks into a US plug.


Hook the power cable into the brick that plugs into the wall. That is the cable thats just like the one that plugs into back of your computer...


----------



## daviejams

Anyone ordered one of the 4k monitors that Qnix are making now ?

Quite fancy trying it out


----------



## Feyla

What's the best place to buy a Qnix QX2710 these days? When I got mine before I got it from dreamseller on eBay, still a good option or?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> What's the best place to buy a Qnix QX2710 these days? When I got mine before I got it from dreamseller on eBay, still a good option or?


Yup it's fine. Dreamseller and AccessoriesWhole are the two big sellers on eBay I think. Got both mine from the latter, very happy with mine


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Yup it's fine. Dreamseller and AccessoriesWhole are the two big sellers on eBay I think. Got both mine from the latter, very happy with mine


Thanks. I remember green-sum being a good one too. This is the cheapest I can see at the moment: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution2-27-LED-2560x1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121099795531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c321c3c4b

What does tempered glass mean?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Thanks. I remember green-sum being a good one too. This is the cheapest I can see at the moment: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution2-27-LED-2560x1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121099795531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c321c3c4b
> 
> What does tempered glass mean?


it means you dont want it lol. it has a second sheet of glass mounted to the housing that makes it look more like an imac. the issue is glare. adding a second sheet of glass adds to the internal glare


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Thanks. I remember green-sum being a good one too. This is the cheapest I can see at the moment: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution2-27-LED-2560x1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121099795531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c321c3c4b
> 
> What does tempered glass mean?


I think tempered glass is how the monitors are "made" glossy. So it probably just means that it's the glossy version. I think that's it, but I'm not completely sure. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm


----------



## Feyla

Ah okay, I definitely want a matte one. Looks like this is the best option:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111358944686?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ed82a5ae


----------



## Milamber

What is the best 27" Qnix on the market for gaming at the moment?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Ah okay, I definitely want a matte one. Looks like this is the best option:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111358944686?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ed82a5ae


unless you save a couple bucks on perfect pixel and get this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7c39ae25


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milamber*
> 
> What is the best 27" Qnix on the market for gaming at the moment?


subjective question...


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milamber*
> 
> What is the best 27" Qnix on the market for gaming at the moment?


Single input. Matte or Glossy doesn't matter, that is purely preference.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Ah okay, I definitely want a matte one. Looks like this is the best option:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111358944686?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ed82a5ae


Looks good. Where I got my two glossy ones with a little over a year in between. Both came with pristine packaging and no dead pixels


----------



## Milamber

I meant model as I am looking for a new LCD this week.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milamber*
> 
> I meant model as I am looking for a new LCD this week.


There's only one model.


----------



## daviejams

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-UHD2800-REAL-4K-UHD-28-3840x2160-DP-HDMI-Virtual-5K-Monitor-/141588070279

Anyone tried one of these monitors yet ?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> Anyone ordered one of the 4k monitors that Qnix are making now ?
> 
> Quite fancy trying it out
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-UHD2800-REAL-4K-UHD-28-3840x2160-DP-HDMI-Virtual-5K-Monitor-/141588070279
> 
> Anyone tried one of these monitors yet ?
Click to expand...

Haven't seen anyone around here with one yet? ... IMO I'd steer clear of it, too expensive for Korean/multi-inputs/TN/PWM dimming etc








Tuba has a good summation *HERE* ... ;

I'd avoid the 32"er like the plague also ... *HERE* ... and *HERE* ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Thanks. I remember green-sum being a good one too. This is the cheapest I can see at the moment: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution2-27-LED-2560x1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121099795531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c321c3c4b
> 
> What does tempered glass mean?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> it means you dont want it lol. it has a second sheet of glass mounted to the housing that makes it look more like an imac. the issue is glare. adding a second sheet of glass adds to the internal glare
Click to expand...

Green-Sum is very reputable also ... but as Robb said stay away from "Tempered Glass" (degraded PQ) unless you want to remove it yourself and are hoping for the original L02 glossy or matte panel underneath. Green-Sum is probably the largest supplier of QNIX panels and I bet the "Tempered Glass" model is old stock. I have had direct contact with green-sum regarding tempered glass vs glossy, and they definitely know the difference between a true Glossy and tempered glass and because of this thread I don't believe they make the tempered glass anymore, unless it's special ordered?, because it is more expensive and degrades the picture quality of the panel (matte or glossy) it is covering









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> I think tempered glass is how the monitors are "made" glossy. So it probably just means that it's the glossy version. I think that's it, but I'm not completely sure. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm


Nope ... see above









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milamber*
> 
> What is the best 27" Qnix on the market for gaming at the moment?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Milamber*
> 
> I meant model as I am looking for a new LCD this week.
Click to expand...

If your strictly talking PC platform (sure hope so) then you want the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll *"Single-input" PLS* model for overclocking and minimal input lag in either glossy or matte ... see more info *HERE*









There is also an identical model under the brand name X-Star DP2710 ...


----------



## Milamber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> If your strictly talking PC platform (sure hope so) then you want the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll *"Single-input" PLS* model for overclocking and minimal input lag in either glossy or matte ... see more info *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is also an identical model under the brand name X-Star DP2710 ...


Perfect thanks, it's for PC gaming as my screen died this week after many years and i'm in between a rock and a hard place! So the one you are talking about are any of these?

I'm making a purchase today you see










http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/121490888769?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c496bd841
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-QHD-PC-Monitor-/111600547051?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19fbe934eb
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/121458715949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c4780ed2d
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111258838907?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19e78b277b

My budget is $500 AUD.

Anyone know what a Evolution ll SE model is?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> There's only one model.


Dont say that! Someone may buy the wrong one and I've seen it happen a few times. Sadly theres a lot of confusion with Qnix model numbers. For example, the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DP multi TRUE10 uses a different panel, doesnt OC and is an inferior monitor. The QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II single input is the one to get, these may come in glossy or matte. Although I usually prefer glossy, I have a matte and am satisfied with it. There have been some questions raised on recent shipments of Qnix glossies where there may be variations in panels vs original Qnix glossies:






Not sure if its a temporary issue an ongoing one, but for that reason I may go for a matte if I were in the market for one.


----------



## Milamber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Dont say that! Someone may buy the wrong one and I've seen it happen a few times. Sadly theres a lot of confusion with Qnix model numbers. For example, the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II DP multi TRUE10 uses a different panel, doesnt OC and is an inferior monitor. The QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II single input is the one to get, these may come in glossy or matte. Although I usually prefer glossy, I have a matte and am satisfied with it. There have been some questions raised on recent shipments of Qnix glossies where there may be variations in panels vs original Qnix glossies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if its a temporary issue an ongoing one, but for that reason I may go for a matte if I were in the market for one.


Hi!

I see you were helping me in my thread earlier, I am now looking at these QNIX and this one has been suggested as a good model http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/121458715949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c4780ed2d&rmvSB=true

As you indicated, there are many models such as SE and True 10.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milamber*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I see you were helping me in my thread earlier, I am now looking at these QNIX and this one has been suggested as a good model http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/121458715949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c4780ed2d&rmvSB=true
> 
> As you indicated, there are many models such as SE and True 10.


You said you preferred the Matte look on the other thread so I found it for you









http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111258838907?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19e78b277b


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milamber*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I see you were helping me in my thread earlier, I am now looking at these QNIX and this one has been suggested as a good model http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/121458715949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c4780ed2d&rmvSB=true
> 
> As you indicated, there are many models such as SE and True 10.


The good thing about the Qnix is that they are cheap and therefore less of an investment risk. The link OkanG provided looks right and if he's happy with it, go for it. Yes, the SE version is good.. the True 10 = avoid.

One thing to keep in mind, the Qnix QX2710 (single input) is a minimalist display.. meaning there is only brightness +/- controls. No OSD for color, gamma, contrast options. But this is not a problem, the Qnix is very accurate out of the box. You will have to experiment with OC'ing, ie, 96hz is usually safe and adequate for most purposes. But you may have to use a color profile to make up for the higher gamma that results from OC'ing.. again no problem, many color profiles made by others are available. This monitor has among the highest satisfaction ratings anywhere on the web. Generally I dont like matte, but the Qnix matte is of a high quality and on some material I prefer it over some glossies.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> The good thing about the Qnix is that they are cheap and therefore less of an investment risk. The link OkanG provided looks right and if he's happy with it, go for it. Yes, the SE version is good.. the True 10 = avoid.
> 
> One thing to keep in mind, the Qnix QX2710 (single input) is a minimalist display.. meaning there is only brightness +/- controls. No OSD for color, gamma, contrast options. But this is not a problem, the Qnix is very accurate out of the box. You will have to experiment with OC'ing, ie, 96hz is usually safe and adequate for most purposes. But you may have to use a color profile to make up for the higher gamma that results from OC'ing.. again no problem, many color profiles made by others are available. This monitor has among the highest satisfaction ratings anywhere on the web. Generally I dont like matte, but the Qnix matte is of a high quality and on some material I prefer it over some glossies.


The glossy 07 panel doesn't have the issue with gamma at higher refresh rates. That is just for the matte 02 panel. Not sure about the 06 panel. I wouldn't go glossy, as it has lower color range though.


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> unless you save a couple bucks on perfect pixel and get this
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7c39ae25


Think I'll pay a little bit extra to guarantee no dead pixels







But thanks for the idea.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Looks good. Where I got my two glossy ones with a little over a year in between. Both came with pristine packaging and no dead pixels


Alright thanks.

order placed! Exciting, going to be great to have 2 of these!


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Think I'll pay a little bit extra to guarantee no dead pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But thanks for the idea.
> Alright thanks.
> 
> order placed! Exciting, going to be great to have 2 of these!


There's no proof that "Perfect Pixel" monitors are safter to not have any dead pixels than those who aren't labeled with Perfect Pixel. I got two with no dead pixels, and pixels could also fail during shipment etc, so there's not really a reason to get the perfect pixel versions except if you actually find a dead pixel and you're so determined about it that you're willing to send the monitor to South Korea.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Milamber*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I see you were helping me in my thread earlier, I am now looking at these QNIX and this one has been suggested as a good model http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/121458715949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c4780ed2d&rmvSB=true
> 
> As you indicated, there are many models such as SE and True 10.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> The good thing about the Qnix is that they are cheap and therefore less of an investment risk. The link OkanG provided looks right and if he's happy with it, go for it. Yes, the SE version is good.. the True 10 = avoid.
> 
> One thing to keep in mind, the Qnix QX2710 (single input) is a minimalist display.. meaning there is only brightness +/- controls. No OSD for color, gamma, contrast options. But this is not a problem, the Qnix is very accurate out of the box. You will have to experiment with OC'ing, ie, 96hz is usually safe and adequate for most purposes. But you may have to use a color profile to make up for the higher gamma that results from OC'ing.. again no problem, many color profiles made by others are available. This monitor has among the highest satisfaction ratings anywhere on the web. Generally I dont like matte, but the Qnix matte is of a high quality and on some material I prefer it over some glossies.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> The glossy 07 panel doesn't have the issue with gamma at higher refresh rates. That is just for the matte 02 panel. Not sure about the 06 panel. I wouldn't go glossy, as it has lower color range though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Just read your other thread *HERE,* and all the advise your getting is right on! +R's








I'll try and simplify some tech and add a few more caveats









This thread over the years was all about how to upgrade to the highest standards without breaking the bank!
1) 1080p vs 1440p ... hundred's of comments of *"OMG what have I been missing until now!!!"*
2) IPS vs TN .... comments ... same as above!
3) 120Hz (even 96Hz) vs 60Hz ... comments ... same as above!

"SE" just means "second edition" which has slightly lower QC (dead pixels) than standard, but no one has really complained as most were getting perfect pixels anyway. It's in the link I gave you earlier









L02 (older panels) have a relative/OC higher gamma (dimming of the screen) when they are overclocked, easily corrected with calibration (special tool) or a custom ICC profile.

L07 (newer glossy panels) doesn't seem to see any noticeable gamma shift w/overclocking, but seems to have PWM diming (not an issue for most? people).

IMHO glossy>matte for picture quality if you don't mind managing reflections with controlling ambient light.

King of the Hill presently is the Acer XB270HU ($800) so if that is out of your budget really the next best thing is the QNIX/Catleap2B/Overlord ... Yes G-Sync is pretty awesome but you'll have to pay for it, adding appx $200 to any monitor that has it. So that Acer 27" XB270H-G your looking at is nice BUT it's 1080p/TN ... For comparison,I tried the 1440p/TN/144Hz Asus ROG Swift ($800) and gave up on it, pixel problems and the obvious TN downgrade with a very heavy (POS) matte coating







An XB270HU is in my future, probably would have already sprung for it if it came in a "Glossy"!









You really can't go wrong with the QNIX @ $250-$300 (maybe more for AU) to see what an overclocked (96Hz-120Hz+) IPS panel @1440p looks/performs like. AND if it is not for you (I highly doubt it) you can turn around and sell it very easily for what you paid for it, especially if it OC's well and has no dead pixels. Lots of guys looking for "open box/tested" panels as they are not sure they want to take the risk of buying new. In the last 6mos there have been very few if any? complaints of QC (quality control) with their new purchases.

Good luck ... let us know how it all shakes out








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> There's no proof that "Perfect Pixel" monitors are safter to not have any dead pixels than those who aren't labeled with Perfect Pixel. I got two with no dead pixels, and pixels could also fail during shipment etc, so there's not really a reason to get the perfect pixel versions except if you actually find a dead pixel and you're so determined about it that you're willing to send the monitor to South Korea.


Agreed ... same goes with the "SE" vs Standard ... +R


----------



## xCarnagex

I just received my QNIX Evolution II SE glossy from accessorieswhole and as much as I was hoping to be as lucky as most others seem to be, I was not. lol.

Accessorieswhole still hasn't replied back to my e-mail to help with the issue so I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask on the thread that swayed me into taking the chance of buying one. (Just to hold me over until better native 120hz+ 1440p ips monitors become available for less than $700.)

Anyhoo, I read through a lot of the thread but there are way too many pages to get through it all and I've tried researching but no luck for my issue. I used all of the cables provided with the monitor and immediately after turning it on there were green dots/lines spread out across the screen. I have a GTX 980 so gpu shouldn't be the issue and drivers are up to date. I would try another DVI-D cable but I have none present and would rather not buy another just to potentially take up space.

Does anyone know of other things I could try or does it seem like it's just a bad panel? I'll post pics when I'm able to get back home but that won't be for another 7 hours or so.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCarnagex*
> 
> I just received my QNIX Evolution II SE glossy from accessorieswhole and as much as I was hoping to be as lucky as most others seem to be, I was not. lol.
> 
> Accessorieswhole still hasn't replied back to my e-mail to help with the issue so I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask on the thread that swayed me into taking the chance of buying one. (Just to hold me over until better native 120hz+ 1440p ips monitors become available for less than $700.)
> 
> Anyhoo, I read through a lot of the thread but there are way too many pages to get through it all and I've tried researching but no luck for my issue. I used all of the cables provided with the monitor and immediately after turning it on there were green dots/lines spread out across the screen. I have a GTX 980 so gpu shouldn't be the issue and drivers are up to date. I would try another DVI-D cable but I have none present and would rather not buy another just to potentially take up space.
> 
> Does anyone know of other things I could try or does it seem like it's just a bad panel? I'll post pics when I'm able to get back home but that won't be for another 7 hours or so.


Definitely try another cable first. It's unfortunately unlikely, but it still could be the culprit. If that doesn't work, try doublechecking whether every cable is in correctly inside the monitor. This would require that you opened up the monitor though, and that could void the warranty. You should not do this if you plan to send the monitor back to get a replacement.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCarnagex*
> 
> I just received my QNIX Evolution II SE glossy from accessorieswhole and as much as I was hoping to be as lucky as most others seem to be, I was not. lol.
> 
> Accessorieswhole still hasn't replied back to my e-mail to help with the issue so I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask on the thread that swayed me into taking the chance of buying one. (Just to hold me over until better native 120hz+ 1440p ips monitors become available for less than $700.)
> 
> Anyhoo, I read through a lot of the thread but there are way too many pages to get through it all and I've tried researching but no luck for my issue. I used all of the cables provided with the monitor and immediately after turning it on there were green dots/lines spread out across the screen. I have a GTX 980 so gpu shouldn't be the issue and drivers are up to date. I would try another DVI-D cable but I have none present and would rather not buy another just to potentially take up space.
> 
> Does anyone know of other things I could try or does it seem like it's just a bad panel? I'll post pics when I'm able to get back home but that won't be for another 7 hours or so.


Also ask a friend so you can test on his machine. i had green dots on my Qnix once but when connecting to a normal 1080p display it was working fine. I ended up getting my graphics card swapped and it worked just fine. So It could be that the gpu can't handle that type of load over DVI.


----------



## robb41488

all the above, i once had my dvi cable slip out of the port just a little bit and it started causing bright green led dots to appear. once plugged back in all the way all was fine.

so as stated, try another cable, try another rig, try opening and looking at the intenal cables


----------



## xCarnagex

I forgot to post pics here when I got home. Here they are for reference. I'm just venturing into the world of above 1080p so excuse me if I just missed something ridiculously simple. hah











Taking it apart just to get a look at the inside will probably happen even if the culprit is discovered before that point. I would hope a gtx 980 would be enough to drive it no matter the port but with everyone moving more towards displayport I wouldn't be surprised. Thanks for the suggestions thus far.

Accessorieswhole finally responded and are supposed to get in touch with QNIX but who knows how long that will take. Otherwise pretty much got the same advice to try.


----------



## Dry Bonez

alrighty guys, i finally after about a year,got my 3x qnix monitors up and running in surround.Unfortunately i am rocking a gtx 580 in sli. will be upgrading to these new cards just waiting on that now. anyway,how can i debezel these suckers? can i jus take off the front frame and just leave it like that? also,who in here has 3x qnix monitors with or without debezels.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> alrighty guys, i finally after about a year,got my 3x qnix monitors up and running in surround.Unfortunately i am rocking a gtx 580 in sli. will be upgrading to these new cards just waiting on that now. anyway,how can i debezel these suckers? can i jus take off the front frame and just leave it like that? also,who in here has 3x qnix monitors with or without debezels.


https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE

If you search the thread with 'debezel' you should get many hits. Also a dedicated debezelled thread here with a few Qnix owners I believe:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1397263/the-official-debezelled-monitor-club


----------



## xCarnagex

Good news...........it isn't the monitor that's the issue.

Bad news...........it's probably my video card. The monitor is beautiful picture wise on my friend's computer that has a 970. I haven't noticed any dead pixels yet but he's also been playing on it this whole time. Lol.

I bought my 980 about 2 weeks ago used from Amazon and I'm thinking that maybe it was returned for a reason other than someone not liking it. It also froze a LoL game earlier on my u2412m and it was the only monitor hooked but hasn't had a hiccup the last few hours and we've tried multiple games.

Drivers are up to date. I may do a wipe and install on those. Any other ideas of what could be the cause?

Edit: I just tried it on my 670 and it worked fine without issue. ( Other than it being a 670 and hardly any fps on 1440p anyway. hah.) It's looking like possibly a faulty dvi port on my 980 as the DP ports worked fine running both of my U2412M's.


----------



## Proxish

Looking for some help with Overclocking my QX2710 while maintaining the ability to downclock.

I found this Post which stated using the below timings would allow my GPU to downclock on Desktop.

However, my GPU won't downclock with the below timings. In fact, it doesn't downclock with any other setting other than 60hz.
Anyone got any ideas as to what I can do?


----------



## Darklyric

Okay so I bought one of these single dvi-d input qnix qx2710 se models recently and I'm currently running it on a 290 on 15.3 beta.

I used the driver pixel patch per instructions in the OP and then, I think







, created a 120hz profile in cru but everytime I try and test it with http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping it only shows 60 hz. I tried to find the part where I enable 120hz in ccc but as the picture shows it already says "up to 120hz" .


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I guess I would like to know am I at 120 now or what?







Thanks for the help!


----------



## 2010ngojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> Okay so I bought one of these single dvi-d input qnix qx2710 se models recently and I'm currently running it on a 290 on 15.3 beta.
> 
> I used the driver pixel patch per instructions in the OP and then, I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , created a 120hz profile in cru but everytime I try and test it with http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping it only shows 60 hz. I tried to find the part where I enable 120hz in ccc but as the picture shows it already says "up to 120hz" .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I would like to know am I at 120 now or what?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Did you go change the refresh rate from the windows display settings?

Right click on desktop and click screen resolution. Then click advance settings and go to the monitor tab. Look at the refresh rate and see if it said 120Hz.

Also before that, make sure you click the restart.exe or restart64.exe after apply the refresh rates through cru.


----------



## Darklyric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> Did you go change the refresh rate from the windows display settings?
> 
> Right click on desktop and click screen resolution. Then click advance settings and go to the monitor tab. Look at the refresh rate and see if it said 120Hz.


/face meet palm







Thanks man + rep


----------



## xCarnagex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Also ask a friend so you can test on his machine. i had green dots on my Qnix once but when connecting to a normal 1080p display it was working fine. I ended up getting my graphics card swapped and it worked just fine. *So It could be that the gpu can't handle that type of load over DVI*.


I forgot this part of your response. +rep for you. Seems to be the case which is silly considering such a "powerful card" isn't even able to push 1440p through it's only DVI port. Works 1080p great through the same cable. So either I have to pay more for an active dp to dvi adapter or send it back and get another 980 that either lists and actual dvi-d port. (evga editions seem to be the only one and I believe a Gigabyte has one as well.)

Though if I go that route I may just wait until the 300 series come out or 980ti to see where the pricing and performance stand. Only reason I didn't do that to begin with is it's hard to pass up any 980 for $400 much less one that sells for over $600 new even now.


----------



## Dry Bonez

i give up messing with triple monitor resolutions.i have tried searching online but cant seem to find the solution i actually need....ok,so im attempting triple screens with 2x gtx 580 sli.i kno it isnt enuff.But i would like to set custom resolution so that it can be 1080p instead of 1440 and it just gives me option of 7580(i believe) x 1440p and 4880 x 900p but no 1080p option.....i even tried setting all 3 displays indivually to 1080p.


----------



## QuickFix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i give up messing with triple monitor resolutions.i have tried searching online but cant seem to find the solution i actually need....ok,so im attempting triple screens with 2x gtx 580 sli.i kno it isnt enuff.But i would like to set custom resolution so that it can be 1080p instead of 1440 and it just gives me option of 7580(i believe) x 1440p and 4880 x 900p but no 1080p option.....i even tried setting all 3 displays indivually to 1080p.


Here's my rig and I can play most games at the highest settings, but others need lower settings. The amount of VRAM is very important at a res of 7680x1440. I would say for a minimum 4GB per card. I'm not a big multiplayer fan, so FPS is not all that important to me. If I can play without lag, tearing and stutter, I'm happy. Newer games I've got are Far Cry 4, Dying Light and GTAV which are not a problem for the system.

Benchmark of Metro LL Redux with 3 passes of scene 1 using these settings:

Res: 7680x1440
Quality: High
SSAA: Off
Texture Filtering: AF 4x
Motion Blur: Off
Tesselatilon: Normal
VSync: Off
Adnvanced PhysX: On

Average Framerate: 33.00
Max. Framerate: 124.36
Min. Framerate: 13.24

The settings above are the ones I use in game. Play is very smooth with no tearing or hesitation.

Motherboard : ASRock Z77 OC Formula
CPU : Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz overclocked to 3.8Ghz

GPU :GeForce GTX 670 EVGA FTW+ 4GB Edition SLI (x2)

RAM : CORSAIR Vengeance 16 GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 1866MHz
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Monitor : QNIX QX2710 27Inch (x3) overclocked to 75hz
Screen Res* : 7680x1440
OS Boot SSD Drive : Intel SSDSC2CT240A3K5 240GB
2nd Drive : Western Digital - WD1002FAEX 1TB (Game files hard drive)
Operating System : Win 7 Pro 64bit
Direct X : DX11.1
Case : Rosewill Thor V2-W
PSU : Corsair HX850 850W
Logitech Z-680 5.1 Computer Speakers
Headset : Astro A40 Audio System
Keyboard : SteelSeries Merc Stealth
Mouse : Logitech G502 Proteus Core


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuickFix*
> 
> Here's my rig and I can play most games at the highest settings, but others need lower settings. The amount of VRAM is very important at a res of 7680x1440. I would say for a minimum 4GB per card. I'm not a big multiplayer fan, so FPS is not all that important to me. If I can play without lag, tearing and stutter, I'm happy. Newer games I've got are Far Cry 4, Dying Light and GTAV which are not a problem for the system.
> 
> Benchmark of Metro LL Redux with 3 passes of scene 1 using these settings:
> 
> Res: 7680x1440
> Quality: High
> SSAA: Off
> Texture Filtering: AF 4x
> Motion Blur: Off
> Tesselatilon: Normal
> VSync: Off
> Adnvanced PhysX: On
> 
> Average Framerate: 33.00
> Max. Framerate: 124.36
> Min. Framerate: 13.24
> 
> The settings above are the ones I use in game. Play is very smooth with no tearing or hesitation.
> 
> Motherboard : ASRock Z77 OC Formula
> CPU : Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz overclocked to 3.8Ghz
> 
> GPU :GeForce GTX 670 EVGA FTW+ 4GB Edition SLI (x2)
> 
> RAM : CORSAIR Vengeance 16 GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 1866MHz
> CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> Monitor : QNIX QX2710 27Inch (x3) overclocked to 75hz
> Screen Res* : 7680x1440
> OS Boot SSD Drive : Intel SSDSC2CT240A3K5 240GB
> 2nd Drive : Western Digital - WD1002FAEX 1TB (Game files hard drive)
> Operating System : Win 7 Pro 64bit
> Direct X : DX11.1
> Case : Rosewill Thor V2-W
> PSU : Corsair HX850 850W
> Logitech Z-680 5.1 Computer Speakers
> Headset : Astro A40 Audio System
> Keyboard : SteelSeries Merc Stealth
> Mouse : Logitech G502 Proteus Core


THANKS for the shed of light. but i must say and not in a harsh way,but there is NO way you are maxing out games with that resolution with 4gb GTX 670s SLI. NOOOOO WAYYYYY! if that. I have 2x GTX 580 with 1.5gb Vram and i know thats my drawback. That is exactly why i am trying to find out a way to do 1080p across all monitors but it doesnt give me that option. once in surround,it doesnt even let me do a custom resolution. i cannot play @ 1440p with these cards. Once i get my new card(s) i wouldnt mind tbh.


----------



## QuickFix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> THANKS for the shed of light. but i must say and not in a harsh way,but there is NO way you are maxing out games with that resolution with 4gb GTX 670s SLI. NOOOOO WAYYYYY! if that. I have 2x GTX 580 with 1.5gb Vram and i know thats my drawback. That is exactly why i am trying to find out a way to do 1080p across all monitors but it doesnt give me that option. once in surround,it doesnt even let me do a custom resolution. i cannot play @ 1440p with these cards. Once i get my new card(s) i wouldnt mind tbh.


I posted my system game performance as a service to you and others that you don't need twin Titans or more to run 7680x1440. I've been building my own systems for over 20 years, so I'm not unfamiliar with this stuff. Here's my settings in some recent games all running fullscreen:

Far Cry 4 - 7680x1440 - Ultra

Dying Light 2560x1440 - Medium

GTA V - 7680x1440 - FXAA on, MSAA x2, NVida TXAA on, Vsync off, Video Ram 8140/8190m, Long Shadows on, High Res Shadows on, High Detail while flying on.

Wolfenstein - The Old Blood - 7680x1440 - Medium

When you research each game you find out which settings yield the best bang for the FPS buck. Some don't offer much graphics improvement and are merely a performance hit. I don't usually rely on Geforce Experience to set my settings because my goal is more graphics quality than FPS.

I admit that your cards are definitely under powered for 7680x14440 with mine being fairly close to the minimum. With the performance increase in games predicted with Windows 10/DX12, I'm hoping to get a couple more years out of my rig. I just wish, I would have paid the extra hundred to get a 3770K instead of the 3570k, since DX12 is apparently going to use HT in games for even more performance.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCarnagex*
> 
> Good news...........it isn't the monitor that's the issue.
> 
> Bad news...........it's probably my video card. The monitor is beautiful picture wise on my friend's computer that has a 970. I haven't noticed any dead pixels yet but he's also been playing on it this whole time. Lol.
> 
> I bought my 980 about 2 weeks ago used from Amazon and I'm thinking that maybe it was returned for a reason other than someone not liking it. It also froze a LoL game earlier on my u2412m and it was the only monitor hooked but hasn't had a hiccup the last few hours and we've tried multiple games.
> 
> Drivers are up to date. I may do a wipe and install on those. Any other ideas of what could be the cause?
> 
> Edit: I just tried it on my 670 and it worked fine without issue. ( Other than it being a 670 and hardly any fps on 1440p anyway. hah.) It's looking like possibly a faulty dvi port on my 980 as the DP ports worked fine running both of my U2412M's.


Usually the green dots are from memory issues. Sounds like your card was over clocked past it's limits and fried :-(


----------



## xCarnagex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> Usually the green dots are from memory issues. Sounds like your card was over clocked past it's limits and fried :-(


Worked fine on my 1080p monitor with the same cable, just not with my QNIX. I believe they just didn't make most of the 980's with proper DVI-D for that resolution on DVI as they're going for DP and probably trying to push G-sync monitors onto people. (We know DP is pretty much best overall especially once they can release DP 1.3 but Nvidia seems determined to make G-sync happen amd 3 DP on cards make it more annoying for those still using these awesome DVI-D Korean monitors.)

This card has all of the pins for DVI-D which I thought would make it work but it seems to be actual DVI-I. Zotac doesn't really clarify any of that, just lists as DVI.

It may very well be that issue as well. Has been working fine since that 1 instance but I also haven't played any games much. Out of box it has pretty good standard clocks as it's their Amp! Extreme edition but some people can't ever have enough and must OC to the limits. lol

I'm just hoping I can figure it out completely before the time to send it back is up. I'm waiting on an active displayport to dvi-d adapter now to see if that changes anything.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCarnagex*
> 
> Worked fine on my 1080p monitor with the same cable, just not with my QNIX. I believe they just didn't make most of the 980's with proper DVI-D for that resolution on DVI as they're going for DP and probably trying to push G-sync monitors onto people. (We know DP is pretty much best overall especially once they can release DP 1.3 but Nvidia seems determined to make G-sync happen amd 3 DP on cards make it more annoying for those still using these awesome DVI-D Korean monitors.)
> 
> This card has all of the pins for DVI-D which I thought would make it work but it seems to be actual DVI-I. Zotac doesn't really clarify any of that, just lists as DVI.
> 
> It may very well be that issue as well. Has been working fine since that 1 instance but I also haven't played any games much. Out of box it has pretty good standard clocks as it's their Amp! Extreme edition but some people can't ever have enough and must OC to the limits. lol
> 
> I'm just hoping I can figure it out completely before the time to send it back is up. I'm waiting on an active displayport to dvi-d adapter now to see if that changes anything.


DVI-I and DVI-D both work with these monitors. The key is dual link, which all 980s have.


----------



## xCarnagex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> DVI-I and DVI-D both work with these monitors. The key is dual link, which all 980s have.


I thought that was the case but wasn't sure. I tried a DVI-I cable and it gave me the flashing solid colors going that route. DVI-D still looks like the pics I posted earlier on the last page or 2.

I suppose I won't know for sure if it's just that port or the card itself until I get that adapter in and see if that changes anything.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCarnagex*
> 
> I thought that was the case but wasn't sure. I tried a DVI-I cable and it gave me the flashing solid colors going that route. DVI-D still looks like the pics I posted earlier on the last page or 2.
> 
> I suppose I won't know for sure if it's just that port or the card itself until I get that adapter in and see if that changes anything.


There's really no reason a dvi-I cord would give you flashing colors. Are you sure you didn't try a single link dvi cord?

In any case your proof of the 970 and 670 working fine with the monitor means the monitor is good. Your issue is your card for sure. I have a 970G1 and can use both the dvi-d and dvi-I ports with thus monitor (you have to use both ports in order to flash firmware updates on the g1)

As I stated prior sounds like something is bad on your card. Lots of people in here are using 980s


----------



## xCarnagex

I'll know for sure this week once that adapter comes in. If it is the card hopefully they'll just let me ship it back and get a refund as I bought it from a vendor on Amazon. (They seem upfront about finding a resolution to the issue if needed.)

It's working great for 1080p but refuses to work on the 1440p. That and perhaps Zotac will actually respond to my e-mail tomorrow.

Would mean more waiting and I really want to venture into the wonder that is 1440p and above 60hz after being on 60hz and 1080p so long. Thank you all for the replies.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Just to add I'm using R9 290s in crossfire, I can max most games 60+fps, games I struggle with are arma 3 and project cars. Of course I'm running these on my XSTAR korean monitor.
1440p is what companies told us what 1080p would be like haha. Using a 1080p monitor now is a nasty experience.


----------



## tadvaas

Hi Everyone,

Would someone be able to help with marking of some resistors from QX2710 PCB DPL2560LS or a high res picture, I managed to misplace them some time ago.

The values I am looking for are for R702, R701, R703, R706.

Thanks for help.


----------



## Bratschki

Hey guys,

so I overclocked my Qnix QX2710 to 96Hz which works fine and noticable different under Windows 7.
I use a gtx 780ti @ default settings for testing purpose.

As soon as I start a game in fullscreen the Monitor turns black real fast and probably resets to 60Hz. For example Dota 2.

I start Dota 2 at default 60Hz and the monitor doesnt turn black and Vsync shows me correct 60Hz ingame. I can tab out and in without the Monitor turning black. As soon as I change the refreshrate to anything different but 60 Hz the game kind of resets the settings back to 60Hz ingame. Vsync ingame does not work then and the client renders the maximum 120Fps he is allowed to render.

Its the same issue with Left for dead, Dead space etc. Default settings doesnt trigger a blackscreen. But anything different leads to a blackscreen before the game starts which I think resets the Monitor to 60Hz for that fullscreen application.
However if I start Dota 2 in Borderless window mode with vsync it renders the correct 96Hz.

If everything worked correctly it should Vsync the 96Hz I set my monitor to and feel different I guess?

What can I do that the game accept the Monitor as a 96 hz device in fullscreenmode?


----------



## tadvaas

Hi,

Would someone be able to help with marking of some resistors from QX2710 PCB DPL2560LS or a high res picture, I managed to misplace them some time ago.

The values I am looking for are for R702, R701, R703, R706.

The picture with missing resistors outlined in red.



Thanks for help.


----------



## Raile

Hello all, I'm thinking about upgrading my old monitor to this, but I wanted to ask a few questions. I've read the FAQ and been all over the internet, but details on this monitor are hardish to find (and this thread is rather long, though I'm sure my questions may have been asked).

1. This is an ideal monitor to go for right (ebay link at the end)? I've gathered that what I want is just the baseline Evolution 2, none of this multi true or SE stuff: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269

2. My eyes can get pretty sensitive to bright light under my current lighting conditions. The monitor I have now is a Samsung that has a remote that I frequently use to adjust the backlight from 20 to as low as 3 in extreme cases. *Does this Qnix monitor have a decent range of brightness/backlight control? Could I get the screen fairly dark, or is this likely to be an issue?*

3. Apparently buying these monitors is like buying lottery tickets. They are at least generally quite good, right?

Thanks for any advice here, and sorry for any questions that may have been asked (or even answered in the information comp that I may have missed).


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raile*
> 
> Hello all, I'm thinking about upgrading my old monitor to this, but I wanted to ask a few questions. I've read the FAQ and been all over the internet, but details on this monitor are hardish to find (and this thread is rather long, though I'm sure my questions may have been asked).
> 
> 1. This is an ideal monitor to go for right (ebay link at the end)? I've gathered that what I want is just the baseline Evolution 2, none of this multi true or SE stuff: http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269
> 
> 2. My eyes can get pretty sensitive to bright light under my current lighting conditions. The monitor I have now is a Samsung that has a remote that I frequently use to adjust the backlight from 20 to as low as 3 in extreme cases. *Does this Qnix monitor have a decent range of brightness/backlight control? Could I get the screen fairly dark, or is this likely to be an issue?*
> 
> 3. Apparently buying these monitors is like buying lottery tickets. They are at least generally quite good, right?
> 
> Thanks for any advice here, and sorry for any questions that may have been asked (or even answered in the information comp that I may have missed).


1. Yes. "SE" means "Second Edition" and is not the problem. The TRUE10 models though, are the ones that you should stay away from if you want to overclock. The one you linked is single input, and therefore overclockable.

2. I took the time to close my curtains and set one of my monitors to max and the other to minimum brightness using the controls on the monitors











Don't look at the image quality, just the brightness difference please









3. I have personally never had a problem. The reason people call it a lottery is honestly not because there's a high chance that the monitor will be defect upon delivery. The real problem for Korean IPS owners is that should it disfunction one day, returning it all the way to South Korea to get a replacement is a hassle. I'd still say 99+% of Qnix owners recieve a perfectly fine monitor, and that is also reflected in the ebay feedback system where the most reputable sellers that 99% or more positive feedback. This also applies to overclockability, pretty much all single input Qnix's will overclock to a minimum of 96Hz if done correctly.

Good luck with your purchase









EDIT: Unrelated to the monitor, you should really try f.lux if you have sensitive eyes. It really helps during late night browsing etc.


----------



## Raile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> 1. Yes. "SE" means "Second Edition" and is not the problem. The TRUE10 models though, are the ones that you should stay away from if you want to overclock. The one you linked is single input, and therefore overclockable.
> 
> 2. I took the time to close my curtains and set one of my monitors to max and the other to minimum brightness using the controls on the monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2458453/width/500/height/1000
> 
> Don't look at the image quality, just the brightness difference please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. I have personally never had a problem. The reason people call it a lottery is honestly not because there's a high chance that the monitor will be defect upon delivery. The real problem for Korean IPS owners is that should it disfunction one day, returning it all the way to South Korea to get a replacement is a hassle. I'd still say 99+% of Qnix owners recieve a perfectly fine monitor, and that is also reflected in the ebay feedback system where the most reputable sellers that 99% or more positive feedback. This also applies to overclockability, pretty much all single input Qnix's will overclock to a minimum of 96Hz if done correctly.
> 
> Good luck with your purchase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Unrelated to the monitor, you should really try f.lux if you have sensitive eyes. It really helps during late night browsing etc.


Thanks for the quick reply and the image brightness comparison







. Looks like it should be manageable, and I think I'm comfortable with ordering one of these now. Though I do want to note that the only reason I was mentioning SE was because of lower QC standards or something. Not sure if that was the only difference though.

Also I've been using f.lux







. Actually used it all evening today for the first time in a while. It's nice as long as I'm not doing anything where the orange is likely to annoy me, but I'm kind of hoping to find another filter of some sort. On my phone I use a screen filter that just kind of adds a really dark overlay. That would probably be my ideal solution honestly.

Anyway, thanks again for the info


----------



## Joe-Gamer

If you're worried buy a pixel perfect one!







Little bit more £20-£30 but no dead pixels.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> If you're worried buy a pixel perfect one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little bit more £20-£30 but no dead pixels.


Usually only the "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" models guarantee no dead pixels. The regular perfect pixel models still allow some number of dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Must of changed when I brought mine, only standard and pixel perfect were available. Sorry for wrong info!


----------



## Raile

Well actually since you mentioned the Pixel Perfect, I looked it up and found that apparently they have one on newegg for a really good price..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419

Safe to say that these monitors from MNW Global are as good as any of the ebay distributors? Seems everyone tends to go the ebay route so I just want to be sure, as this is a Pixel Perfect for only $10 more than the one I wanted from ebay. Probably gonna order within the next couple hours..


----------



## lifesosian

Hi, is it risky to jump onto this monitor? Theres a sale for this QX2710 LED Evolution ll Matte Panel for 230usd the SE version is 220.
I mainly play CSGO and was planning to buy a benq 144hz until i found this monitor.

How will the overclocking perform on lower resolutions? I play CSGO on 1024x768, so how will the overclocking perform and work on the lower resolutions up to 1920x1080. Im willing to run default 60hz on the 1440p resolution but i would want 120hz when playing CSGO. Is there any user playing CSGO with this monitor? How does it perform compared to a normal TN panel with 75hz refresh rate?

Also i understand that the monitor controls only allow brightness and volume adjustment, if I want to change my monitor to 4:3 aspect ratio with black bars for CSGO how do i have to go about doing it?

Is the stand of the monitor a big problem that I have to buy another monitor stand to replace it?


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> Hi, is it risky to jump onto this monitor? Theres a sale for this QX2710 LED Evolution ll Matte Panel for 230usd the SE version is 220.
> I mainly play CSGO and was planning to buy a benq 144hz until i found this monitor.
> 
> How will the overclocking perform on lower resolutions? I play CSGO on 1024x768, so how will the overclocking perform and work on the lower resolutions up to 1920x1080. Im willing to run default 60hz on the 1440p resolution but i would want 120hz when playing CSGO. Is there any user playing CSGO with this monitor? How does it perform compared to a normal TN panel with 75hz refresh rate?
> 
> Also i understand that the monitor controls only allow brightness and volume adjustment, if I want to change my monitor to 4:3 aspect ratio with black bars for CSGO how do i have to go about doing it?
> 
> Is the stand of the monitor a big problem that I have to buy another monitor stand to replace it?


is it listed as an "offgrade"

if so stay away from it. these are already offgrade screens so whats an offgrade of an offgrade?


----------



## XJ220

Hello guys! Newbie here, lurked these forums a lot but never felt the need to post. Until I became interested in getting a new monitor anyway









I have searched in this thread and around the internet,but I have not seen my question answered in detail:
Who is the best Qnix QX2710 ebay seller? AccessoriesWhole looks perfect for me, particularly because their perfect pixel coverage is complete (other sellers don't consider stuck pixels dead, and most consider up to 2 or 3 dead pixels "pixel perfect" and won't take the monitor back). Many say that most monitors come pixel perfect as is anyway, but I'd like to see the exact percentage for that before committing









I haven't seen any meaningful amounts of feedback about particular sellers, probably because most people buy 1 and are done with it. Are any perceived to have higher failure rates or worse customer service and the like?

Thank you!


----------



## lifesosian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> is it listed as an "offgrade"
> 
> if so stay away from it. these are already offgrade screens so whats an offgrade of an offgrade?


nah not offgrade.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> nah not offgrade.


link?


----------



## QuickFix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raile*
> 
> Well actually since you mentioned the Pixel Perfect, I looked it up and found that apparently they have one on newegg for a really good price..
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419
> 
> Safe to say that these monitors from MNW Global are as good as any of the ebay distributors? Seems everyone tends to go the ebay route so I just want to be sure, as this is a Pixel Perfect for only $10 more than the one I wanted from ebay. Probably gonna order within the next couple hours..


I bought 3 QX2710 from MW Global about 7 mos ago through Amazon and they're running in Nvidia surround at 7680x1440. The first one had a small discoloration only visible on an all white screen. I complained to them and they gave me a $30.00 refund. I don't even notice it now so it was a win. I was so impressed I bought two more. Those were pixel perfect except one would only overclock to 90Hz and the other 75Hz. The first one with the smudge did 120Hz no problem. I run them all at 75Hz and I'm happy. Would do it again, but I think with any vendor It's a crap shoot.


----------



## oneilljstn

Recently upgraded my graphics card and my overclock for my qnix has suffered.
I used to get an easy 120hz+ with my 660ti. I upagrded to a 970 and now I cant go any higher than 110hz without artifacts.
Is the overclock dependant on graphics card? Using the same cable and save everything else, the only difference in the video card. A bit disappointing to be honest.


----------



## lifesosian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> Hi, is it risky to jump onto this monitor? Theres a sale for this QX2710 LED Evolution ll Matte Panel for 230usd the SE version is 220.
> I mainly play CSGO and was planning to buy a benq 144hz until i found this monitor.
> 
> How will the overclocking perform on lower resolutions? I play CSGO on 1024x768, so how will the overclocking perform and work on the lower resolutions up to 1920x1080. Im willing to run default 60hz on the 1440p resolution but i would want 120hz when playing CSGO. Is there any user playing CSGO with this monitor? How does it perform compared to a normal TN panel with 75hz refresh rate?
> 
> Also i understand that the monitor controls only allow brightness and volume adjustment, if I want to change my monitor to 4:3 aspect ratio with black bars for CSGO how do i have to go about doing it?
> 
> Is the stand of the monitor a big problem that I have to buy another monitor stand to replace it?


Rebump my own post sorry. really hope someone could answer me cos im really interested in this monitor.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> Rebump my own post sorry. really hope someone could answer me cos im really interested in this monitor.


Avoid any monitor that is priced low. @230 it is offgrade or something wrong with it and/or returned to dealer.

ALso for any others interested in Qnix, there has been some controversy that they are not shipping same panels as before. The glossy panels are reportedly being shipped slightly different to the original. Orig panel model no. LTM270DL*02*, new ones have been shipping as LTM270DL*07*.

more info: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21770#post_23128877

and review of new vs old: 




Anyone still interested in Qnix may want to consider the matte version which is supposedly unchanged from the original.


----------



## Alwaysneedhelp

Hi, I just wanted to ask does anyone have any good, amazing color profiles? My monitor looks so washed out and I don't know what to do. It's so bright and when I turn down the brightness then it's to dark. I want to try a color profile before deciding to sell it. My PN51F8500 Samsung looks so much better playing at 1080p then this monitor. Maybe its my settings?


----------



## lifesosian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> Hi, is it risky to jump onto this monitor? Theres a sale for this QX2710 LED Evolution ll Matte Panel for 230usd the SE version is 220.
> I mainly play CSGO and was planning to buy a benq 144hz until i found this monitor.
> 
> How will the overclocking perform on lower resolutions? I play CSGO on 1024x768, so how will the overclocking perform and work on the lower resolutions up to 1920x1080. Im willing to run default 60hz on the 1440p resolution but i would want 120hz when playing CSGO. Is there any user playing CSGO with this monitor? How does it perform compared to a normal TN panel with 75hz refresh rate?
> 
> Also i understand that the monitor controls only allow brightness and volume adjustment, if I want to change my monitor to 4:3 aspect ratio with black bars for CSGO how do i have to go about doing it?
> 
> Is the stand of the monitor a big problem that I have to buy another monitor stand to replace it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Avoid any monitor that is priced low. @230 it is offgrade or something wrong with it and/or returned to dealer.
> 
> ALso for any others interested in Qnix, there has been some controversy that they are not shipping same panels as before. The glossy panels are reportedly being shipped slightly different to the original. Orig panel model no. LTM270DL*02*, new ones have been shipping as LTM270DL*07*.
> 
> more info: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21770#post_23128877
> 
> and review of new vs old:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone still interested in Qnix may want to consider the matte version which is supposedly unchanged from the original.


The price im quoting is for the matt version from AccessoriesWhole. i think many people bought from this seller.

Anyone tried playing CSGO with this monitor? And how does the overclocking works and perform at lower resolutions?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alwaysneedhelp*
> 
> Hi, I just wanted to ask does anyone have any good, amazing color profiles? My monitor looks so washed out and I don't know what to do. It's so bright and when I turn down the brightness then it's to dark. I want to try a color profile before deciding to sell it. My PN51F8500 Samsung looks so much better playing at 1080p then this monitor. Maybe its my settings?


This is a problem usually found with the new glossy Qnixs being shipped with the L07 panels (vs the orig L02), that it is 'washed out' and not as vibrant as original Qnixs. Although it should not be as apparent without a direct comparison side by side.

A search for the term "washed" in this thread may reveal some clues how to address it:

=1384767&advanced=1]http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?search=washed&resultSortingPreference=recency&byuser=&output=posts&sdate=0&newer=1&type=all&containingthread[0]=1384767&advanced=1

I think the OP of this thread needs to update the first page to reflect this. People today are not buying the same awesome Qnixs that made this monitor so popular. For anyone to consider Qnix now, only go for matte as that seems to still retain the original L02 panel.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> The price im quoting is for the matt version from AccessoriesWhole. i think many people bought from this seller.
> 
> Anyone tried playing CSGO with this monitor? And how does the overclocking works and perform at lower resolutions?


Many, many people bought great Qnixs from AccessoriesWhole over past few years. That does not mean what is offered at a silly price NOW is a good buy. At $230 that sounds like an off-grade monitor (ie, serious light bleed or other faults) which is why they are selling it for so low. A proper functioning Qnix will not likely be selling for less than $300 today.

As far as CSGO (although not played or tried it on Qnix), You can use a lower res in your GPU control panel. How it will look, I dont know, just that it will never look as good vs native res. Maybe you can try searching at Widescreen Gaming Forums for solutions or workarounds (which they have for many games) incl even being able to play it at higher res.


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> Rebump my own post sorry. really hope someone could answer me cos im really interested in this monitor.


if your looking at the one you linked me, its a true10 with the extra ports. since its not a dvi only it will have a scaler board and should be able to run the resolutions your looking to push to it


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> if your looking at the one you linked me, its a true10 with the extra ports. since its not a dvi only it will have a scaler board and should be able to run the resolutions your looking to push to it


If its the True10, avoid at all cost! It doesnt even have the famed PLS panel, but an inferior AH-Va one. Again, avoid at all costs. Here is a review of it:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm


----------



## llBadassll

My Power adapter is dead , I am looking for a replacement.
I bought one for a local store , but the color seem to be darker + i couldn't OC the monitor . Even that I was able to Over clock it to 110Hz with the old adapter.
SO for now I will use this crappy adapter until I order a new one.

Q1: What are good adapters 12v 3A that would work with this monitor ?
Q2: How can I adjust the bad new colors of the monitor ?


----------



## blcpl

I've tried searching the thread for this, but couldn't find the answer (probably because I couldn't word the question correctly).

I've OC'd the monitor to 120hz, and it seems to work fine (there's a shift in brightness/contrast, but I expected that). My question is:

is it safe to keep the monitor at that refresh rate 100% of the time? Are there any downsides to it?


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blcpl*
> 
> I've tried searching the thread for this, but couldn't find the answer (probably because I couldn't word the question correctly).
> 
> I've OC'd the monitor to 120hz, and it seems to work fine (there's a shift in brightness/contrast, but I expected that). My question is:
> 
> is it safe to keep the monitor at that refresh rate 100% of the time? Are there any downsides to it?


iv had 1 of mine set to 120hz for over 2yrs so no there isn't a problem mate


----------



## fullban

I am trying to get my 3 qnix monitors setup in plp (portrait,landscape,portrait) I just havnt got the options showing in CCC .

has anyone else managed to achieve this?


----------



## Rikuo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blcpl*
> 
> I've tried searching the thread for this, but couldn't find the answer (probably because I couldn't word the question correctly).
> 
> I've OC'd the monitor to 120hz, and it seems to work fine (there's a shift in brightness/contrast, but I expected that). My question is:
> 
> is it safe to keep the monitor at that refresh rate 100% of the time? Are there any downsides to it?


It's more susceptible to getting image burn in/retention at higher refresh rates, is about the only downside.

I noticed it a little on mine, When i used to read manga a bunch with firefox @ half screen size.


----------



## blued

Have mine on 96hz.. even though it does 120hz with no issue (other than high gamma which I correct with ICC profile). I see very little difference in actual usage. And since I have no data that can show me long term reliability or any clue as to how 120hz can stress the display over the long term, running at 96hz gives me a bit more peace of mind.


----------



## Raile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Avoid any monitor that is priced low. @230 it is offgrade or something wrong with it and/or returned to dealer.
> 
> ALso for any others interested in Qnix, there has been some controversy that they are not shipping same panels as before. The glossy panels are reportedly being shipped slightly different to the original. Orig panel model no. LTM270DL*02*, new ones have been shipping as LTM270DL*07*.
> 
> more info: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21770#post_23128877
> 
> and review of new vs old:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone still interested in Qnix may want to consider the matte version which is supposedly unchanged from the original.


Well that's bad and unsurprising news for me. I hesitated a lot before I bought this thing, and now that it's here I discover this >_>. Story of my life. Is there a way to check which model I have, or should I just assume it's the 07 since I got it recently? Anything I can do about it at all? I've gotten the distinct impression that returns aren't possible with these for less than $100 unless it's flat out broken or something..


----------



## xCarnagex

Active adapter came in and everything works as it should. The disappointing part is apparently it won't go over 77hz without giving artifacts/irregularities. I DL'd the drivers for the monitor and tried both Nvidia Control panel as recommended and CRU.

That was with 2 different dual DVI-D cables and this is a single input SE model. It's better than 60hz but I was hoping for at least 96hz which was the number I was actually wanting.


----------



## blcpl

Thanks for your answers, I'll leave it at 120hz then.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raile*
> 
> Well that's bad and unsurprising news for me. I hesitated a lot before I bought this thing, and now that it's here I discover this >_>. Story of my life. Is there a way to check which model I have, or should I just assume it's the 07 since I got it recently? Anything I can do about it at all? I've gotten the distinct impression that returns aren't possible with these for less than $100 unless it's flat out broken or something..


You will have to open it up to check. Some info and pics here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/22740


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey everyone,what is the length of the stock DVI cable that comes with it? I have 3x monitors and for one of them,i need a longer length but i dont know the length of the stock it comes with.


----------



## Raile

Having a bit of a problem that I don't see covered. I can't control the brightness with anything other than the monitor buttons. In the nvidia control panel, if I drag the brightness down, it shows it going down, but despite the bar moving, the actual brightness snaps back to a default 50%. Same for gamma, and even the same for *f.lux*. If I try to get f.lux to work, it just starts its dimming into orange process and snaps back to normal color in about 1 second.

What on earth would cause this?

edit: this is actually happening with anything apparently. Tried windows color calibration and it snaps gamma back to default as well. Restarting did fix f.lux though for some reason. I'm very confused here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> You will have to open it up to check. Some info and pics here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/22740


Well that's gonna be annoying. I may not bother checking since I don't think I have any grounds to send the monitor back without a huge fee anyway. Whatever I have is stuck here from the looks of it. It is still pretty nice though with a 100hz oc and no dead pixels.


----------



## renji1337

Did anyone ever find a fix to some of the QNIX's issue where if overclocked the top right side of the panel will get darker than everything else? I can only run my qnix at 85-96hz otherwise the top right side gets noticeably darker. I posted photos of this on this thread about a year ago of it.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> Did anyone ever find a fix to some of the QNIX's issue where if overclocked the top right side of the panel will get darker than everything else? I can only run my qnix at 85-96hz otherwise the top right side gets noticeably darker. I posted photos of this on this thread about a year ago of it.


im pretty sure it isnt fixable. Try another cable i guess. Beyond that,i dont see a foreseeable "fix".....btw,do you know what size length these monitors come in? i need a longer one but not sure the length they come with.


----------



## lifesosian

is it still worth it to get the qnix now as the newer panels seems to be a lower grade and has PWM issues.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> is it still worth it to get the qnix now as the newer panels seems to be a lower grade and has PWM issues.


I dont know. But no one to my knowledge has bought a matte with the L07 panel yet. The all seem to retain the original higher grade L02 panels.

See here fwiw, from someone who got a proper L02 (matte) last April:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/23160#post_23799420


----------



## equivilency

I can only overclock mine to 97hz without intermittent artifacts. For the price and quality of the display I am not complaining though. I think 110hz is a great overclock..


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equivilency*
> 
> I can only overclock mine to 97hz without intermittent artifacts. For the price and quality of the display I am not complaining though. I think 110hz is a great overclock..


110hz is perfect imo. Pixel clock allows for downclocking of my video cards.


----------



## DiceAir

Guys I see one issue with new AMD cards. Look at this post and then look at the second picture. There's no DVI port so now i have to get adapter and that's expensive here in South africa. I only see active displayport adapters with Displayport to Single link DVI. Why? maybe it's the watercooled version and others will still have the DVI connector or maybe you will get the DVI to active displayport with the card. I don't know but this worries me now a bit.

http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/johan-andersson-from-dice-posts-radeon-r9-390-photo.html


----------



## abbb

I'm having a problem with the power connector on the monitor's PCB. For the past year I've randomly had to readjust the power cord because it would only connect in certain configurations. Recently it stopped working completely. I've included an image of the connector on the back of the PCB and the joints look damaged. I tried resoldering them, but that didn't fix anything. I've used a multimeter to verify the voltage on the power brick, but when I plug it into the PCB, there is no voltage difference between any of the three prongs of the power connector on the PCB. I don't know if there should be a difference, but the lack of it leads me to believe that there might be something wrong with the connector itself. I don't run my monitor with an overclock, so overclocking wouldn't be a factor in its not working.

Does this sound like a reasonable conclusion? And does anybody know where I might be able to find a replacement connector? I don't want to have to buy an entirely new PCB if this is the only bad component.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## XJ220

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Guys I see one issue with new AMD cards. Look at this post and then look at the second picture. There's no DVI port so now i have to get adapter and that's expensive here in South africa. I only see active displayport adapters with Displayport to Single link DVI. Why? maybe it's the watercooled version and others will still have the DVI connector or maybe you will get the DVI to active displayport with the card. I don't know but this worries me now a bit.
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/johan-andersson-from-dice-posts-radeon-r9-390-photo.html


Yup, DVI is apparently deprecated... It's holding me back somewhat from buying a qnix/x-star, I don't want to buy a new graphics card 2 or 3 years from now and not be able to hook it up to the monitor. And spending 100€+ on an active adapter is not an idea I like either :/

And the multiple input versions are apparently crap, so yeah... Tough luck


----------



## Raile

Well I managed to resolve just about all of my issues except for the blurry text I have in some programs, so I no longer feel bad about this purchase. I am wondering now though, why are people using these custom color profiles that apparently don't work in a lot of games? I just used the nvidia control panel and got rid of the washed out look and got the colors the way I want them. Is this method not ideal for reasons I'm unaware of? I'm no color expert so I'm not sure...


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey everyone,what is the length of the stock DVI cable that comes with it? I have 3x monitors and for one of them,i need a longer length but i dont know the length of the stock it comes with.


The stock cable is pretty short. I think about 4'.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XJ220*
> 
> Yup, DVI is apparently deprecated... It's holding me back somewhat from buying a qnix/x-star, I don't want to buy a new graphics card 2 or 3 years from now and not be able to hook it up to the monitor. And spending 100€+ on an active adapter is not an idea I like either :/
> 
> And the multiple input versions are apparently crap, so yeah... Tough luck


Maybe I will take this monitor to work and use it there and get myself either freesync monitor or g-sync monitor but again if i go nvidia I can use this monitor but AMD i have to buy a new monitor. Anyway this is just the watercooled version. Their should be air coolerd version that might come with DVI ports.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> The stock cable is pretty short. I think about 4'.


is it 4' or 6'?i need to be sure. all i am waiting for is for a definate answer so i can pull the trigger and buy a new one.


----------



## venom55520

Add me to the club, I got myself the tempered glass version. I use it mainly at night so I don't really have to deal with glare, that and owning a Plasma TV has forced me to "light proof" my room in the quest for better picture quality. All I can say is upgrading from my old Samsung TN panel has been a dream, I no longer get headaches from the obnoxiously high blue light and I managed to overclock my panel to 110Hz which really helps with eye strain and smoothness. This monitor so far has been a dream to use.


----------



## lifesosian

how do you differentiate between the matt version and the tempered glass version? didnt see a tempered glass version before


----------



## venom55520

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> how do you differentiate between the matt version and the tempered glass version? didnt see a tempered glass version before


I would still ultimately recommend the matte version just because of convenience and how vibrant and sharp it already is, getting the glossy or tempered glass version isn't really necessary, I'm just a sucker for shiny things.


----------



## lifesosian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *venom55520*
> 
> I would still ultimately recommend the matte version just because of convenience and how vibrant and sharp it already is, getting the glossy or tempered glass version isn't really necessary, I'm just a sucker for shiny things.


yea im planning to get the matt version. just wanna know how to differentiate them in case they send me a tempered glass version instead


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> yea im planning to get the matt version. just wanna know how to differentiate them in case they send me a tempered glass version instead


There is a noticeable difference. I don't know why they would mistake the tempered glass (I guess you mean glossy?) version with the matte, and if you did actually get the wrong one, you'd notice immideately.


----------



## TrueLies64

Hey lifesosian,

The matte finish is not shiny, glossy or reflective. The glossy finish is, well, very glossy, highly reflective, mirror like. The tempered glass version (which is the one I purchased, an X-Star DP 2710) has a glass overlay like a Dell Thunderbolt monitor. Basically it is a sheet of tempered glass that sits over top of the actual panel. I know there is a "glossy" tempered glass version, unsure if there is a matte tempered glass version. The way to tell the difference is to take your finger and carefully touch your screen. If it _is_ tempered glass your finger will not leave a temporary impression on the screen, if it is _not_ tempered there will be a noticable impression on screen while you are touching it. The tempered glass gives it a nice look, protects the screen, and is easier to clean. It is reflective and shiny, however I do not mind reflections, etc and love the "glossy" panels. When I ordered mine from "accessorieswhole" I asked them to check that there were no dust particles trapped between the tempered glass and my screen, they said they would and it looks perfect, Good Luck.


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> is it 4' or 6'?i need to be sure. all i am waiting for is for a definate answer so i can pull the trigger and buy a new one.


Trying to measure mine all coiled up and twisted around other cables I'm coming up with 5'. I'm sure _someone_ around here has one not hooked up that they could get an accurate measurement of...


----------



## MelonSplitter

I think I have a problem. Whenever I turn my monitor off for a few minutes or so, my desktop goes a little bright and then darkens a little. Anyone have this happen? I use Win 8.1 if it matters. I bought my Qnix about 1 year ago. I checked all my Power Management settings and everything is set to optimal performance.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> Trying to measure mine all coiled up and twisted around other cables I'm coming up with 5'. I'm sure _someone_ around here has one not hooked up that they could get an accurate measurement of...


thanks,i went and ordered a 10ft just to be certain.thanks!! also,how can i set up 3x qnix monitors for surround 1080p resolution? it w8nt give me the option at all when in triple setup.


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> I think I have a problem. Whenever I turn my monitor off for a few minutes or so, my desktop goes a little bright and then darkens a little. Anyone have this happen? I use Win 8.1 if it matters. I bought my Qnix about 1 year ago. I checked all my Power Management settings and everything is set to optimal performance.


Anybody?


----------



## Bratschki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bratschki*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> so I overclocked my Qnix QX2710 to 96Hz which works fine and noticable different under Windows 7.
> I use a gtx 780ti @ default settings for testing purpose.
> 
> As soon as I start a game in fullscreen the Monitor turns black real fast and probably resets to 60Hz. For example Dota 2.
> 
> I start Dota 2 at default 60Hz and the monitor doesnt turn black and Vsync shows me correct 60Hz ingame. I can tab out and in without the Monitor turning black. As soon as I change the refreshrate to anything different but 60 Hz the game kind of resets the settings back to 60Hz ingame. Vsync ingame does not work then and the client renders the maximum 120Fps he is allowed to render.
> 
> Its the same issue with Left for dead, Dead space etc. Default settings doesnt trigger a blackscreen. But anything different leads to a blackscreen before the game starts which I think resets the Monitor to 60Hz for that fullscreen application.
> However if I start Dota 2 in Borderless window mode with vsync it renders the correct 96Hz.
> 
> If everything worked correctly it should Vsync the 96Hz I set my monitor to and feel different I guess?
> 
> What can I do that the game accept the Monitor as a 96 hz device in fullscreenmode?


Sorry I had to Bumb my own comment. Nobody responded yet. Or should I open an extra Thread for that?


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bratschki*
> 
> Sorry I had to Bumb my own comment. Nobody responded yet. Or should I open an extra Thread for that?


I've never seen that problem. Only thing I can think of is trying to OC it to maybe 92hz and see if the problem persists


----------



## Bratschki

The problem also occurs when I underclock the Monitor to 59 or 48Hz Anything but 60Hz leads to the "blackscreen-reset" and the Monitor running at prob 60 Hz ingame again. You get a blackscreen everytime I change to desktop and back. It is just like the game ignore the nvidia control panel. I dont think its a hardware problem but some software issue.


----------



## XlzQwerty1

Hey guys,

I bought a new DVI-D cable yesterday, and it arrived here today. Just tested it out right now plugging into my X-Star DP2710 and my monitor is getting no video signal from the graphics card? It's just flashing White, Black, Red, Green, and Blue repeatedly... Plugging back in my old DVI-D cable seemed to work. Does anyone know if it's the new DVI-D cable that's faulty or something else going on here?









EDIT: The new DVI-D cable works on another monitor I tested, but it apparently doesn't work on the 1440p korean monitor. Does anyone know why this is?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XlzQwerty1*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I bought a new DVI-D cable yesterday, and it arrived here today. Just tested it out right now plugging into my X-Star DP2710 and my monitor is getting no video signal from the graphics card? It's just flashing White, Black, Red, Green, and Blue repeatedly... Plugging back in my old DVI-D cable seemed to work. Does anyone know if it's the new DVI-D cable that's faulty or something else going on here?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The new DVI-D cable works on another monitor I tested, but it apparently doesn't work on the 1440p korean monitor. Does anyone know why this is?


Is it a dual link DVI-D cable? Single link wont work.


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bratschki*
> 
> The problem also occurs when I underclock the Monitor to 59 or 48Hz Anything but 60Hz leads to the "blackscreen-reset" and the Monitor running at prob 60 Hz ingame again. You get a blackscreen everytime I change to desktop and back. It is just like the game ignore the nvidia control panel. I dont think its a hardware problem but some software issue.


What GPU are you using?


----------



## Bratschki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> What GPU are you using?


780ti which is usually overclocked but back to standard clocks because of the issue. I thought that might be the problem but it is not. I reedited my previous text a bit. Hopefully its easier to understand. I am really sorry for my english skills but as you might have noticed already english is not my native language.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bratschki*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> so I overclocked my Qnix QX2710 to 96Hz which works fine and noticable different under Windows 7. Even 108Hz works fine under windows 7
> I use a gtx 780ti @ default settings for testing purpose.
> 
> As soon as I start a game in fullscreen the Monitor turns black real fast and probably resets to 60Hz. For example Dota 2.
> 
> When I start Dota 2 at default Nvidia Control Panel Settings (60Hz) the monitor doesnt turn black and Vsync shows me correct 60Hz ingame. I can tab out and in without the Monitor turning black. As soon as I change the refreshrate to anything different but 60 Hz the game kind of resets the monitorsettings back to 60Hz. Vsync ingame does not work then and the client renders the maximum 120Fps he is allowed to render. The client should render 96Hz or 108Hz as the monitor settings are i guess. You can also feel the difference between 60Hz and 108Hz. However if I start Dota2 in Borderless window mode with vsync it renders the correct 96Hz and 108Hz. ( you can again feel the difference, its much more fluently)
> Its the same issue with Left for dead, Dead space etc. Default settings doesnt trigger a blackscreen. But anything different leads to a blackscreen before the game starts which I think resets the Monitor to 60Hz for that fullscreen application.
> 
> What can I do that the game accept the Monitor as a 96 hz/108Hz device in fullscreenmode?


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bratschki*
> 
> 780ti which is usually overclocked but back to standard clocks because of the issue. I thought that might be the problem but it is not. I reedited my previous text a bit. Hopefully its easier to understand. I am really sorry for my english skills but as you might have noticed already english is not my native language.


Sorry to hear about your problem. I hope someone here could help you. This forum has been my go to site for a long time. I'm sure you'll get the help you need here. C'mon fellow techies.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bratschki*
> 
> 780ti which is usually overclocked but back to standard clocks because of the issue. I thought that might be the problem but it is not. I reedited my previous text a bit. Hopefully its easier to understand. I am really sorry for my english skills but as you might have noticed already english is not my native language.


make sure its dual link. i dont think it will work if it isnt.


----------



## Dry Bonez

i give up trying and i am fed up with this triple monitor crap. I have 3x qnix. My gpu isnt powerful enough to drive 3x 1440p,using GTX 580 SLI. All i want to do is play triple monitors with resolution @ 1080p. I get no surround option for 5760x1080. I have even tried setting every monitor indiidually to 1080p with no success. If this cannot be done,i will be forced to get a better GPU and im waiting for these new cardss to come out.


----------



## Bratschki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> make sure its dual link. i dont think it will work if it isnt.


Ofcourse its dual link. Again I dont think its a hardware problem. Its some software issue. With game overwriting the nvidia control panel. Its the same when you play a game with lower resolution than your desktop. The monitor turns blank if you tab out and in to readjust the settings, but in my case it does that with the refresh rate not the resolution.


----------



## XlzQwerty1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Is it a dual link DVI-D cable? Single link wont work.


Yes it is dual link. It works on another monitor of mine, but it doesn't work on the X-Star... Odd.

Does anyone know why this happens and possibly how to resolve it?

Context: I bought a new DVI-D dual link cable yesterday and it only makes my X-Star flash solid colours of black, white, red, green, and blue. However this cable works on another older monitor of mine (not 1440p).


----------



## Marley217

Hey people,

Unfortunately my Qnix monitor died (happened like 6 months ago) and I probably need a new PCB.

The problem:
The monitor started flickering and then it just died. Now, it very occasionally shows that flickering image again, but it only does that for a couple of seconds before it completely dies again.

Somewhere I've read that replacing the PCB fixes this problem.
Does anyone know where best to buy this PCB?
And has anyone ever had the same problem?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Hey people,
> 
> Unfortunately my Qnix monitor died (happened like 6 months ago) and I probably need a new PCB.
> 
> The problem:
> The monitor started flickering and then it just died. Now, it very occasionally shows that flickering image again, but it only does that for a couple of seconds before it completely dies again.
> 
> Somewhere I've read that replacing the PCB fixes this problem.
> Does anyone know where best to buy this PCB?
> And has anyone ever had the same problem?


Maybe you should open it up and check that all the connectors to the PCB are firmly in place.


----------



## MelonSplitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Hey people,
> 
> Unfortunately my Qnix monitor died (happened like 6 months ago) and I probably need a new PCB.
> 
> The problem:
> The monitor started flickering and then it just died. Now, it very occasionally shows that flickering image again, but it only does that for a couple of seconds before it completely dies again.
> 
> Somewhere I've read that replacing the PCB fixes this problem.
> Does anyone know where best to buy this PCB?
> And has anyone ever had the same problem?


Mine will go a little bright and the dim down a little after wakeing up. its not too noticeable but it is there.How long before yours took a crap and what did you replace it with?


----------



## majikfx

Hey guys.

I was just about to buy a Qnix QX2710 and I'm glad I came across this thread. Do you still recommend buying these monitors? I really can't afford any flickering as I have very mild photosensitive epilepsy. Gaming and such don't really give me seizures but if flickering is a huge deal in these monitors I might just lay off and spent more and buy something else. Does the flickering and ghosting happen with overclocking or is it even existent in the normal monitor?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majikfx*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> I was just about to buy a Qnix QX2710 and I'm glad I came across this thread. Do you still recommend buying these monitors? I really can't afford any flickering as I have very mild photosensitive epilepsy. Gaming and such don't really give me seizures but if flickering is a huge deal in these monitors I might just lay off and spent more and buy something else. Does the flickering and ghosting happen with overclocking or is it even existent in the normal monitor?


2/3 of the known versions use a very low LED PWM Dimming frequency or 'Flicker.' If you are sensitive, you will likely see the flickering as well as transparent black horizontal lines moving down the screen.

LED PWM Dimming Side Effects. Overclocking does not lessen the flickering, and the flickering increases the amount of ghosting. Example:



There's no way to know which version you will end up with, and buying one of these is silly anyway since the Crossover 2795QHD does not flicker, has faster pixel response times (less ghosting) and is similarly priced.


----------



## majikfx

Thank you very much! I'll have a look at the Crossover.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Maybe you should open it up and check that all the connectors to the PCB are firmly in place.


I tried all those things alread. Unfortunately I'm sure something is actually broken unfortunately.


----------



## Marley217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MelonSplitter*
> 
> Mine will go a little bright and the dim down a little after wakeing up. its not too noticeable but it is there.How long before yours took a crap and what did you replace it with?


Well mine never had a problem, no flickering or anything. After about 11 glorious months it just flickered and died. I went back to using a single 1080p monitor **** my life.


----------



## lifesosian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marley217*
> 
> Well mine never had a problem, no flickering or anything. After about 11 glorious months it just flickered and died. I went back to using a single 1080p monitor **** my life.


so is the lifespan of this monitor an issue with all the past users?


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> so is the lifespan of this monitor an issue with all the past users?


IDK, but mine has always worked fine for the past year with near daily use and overclocking to 96Hz.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> so is the lifespan of this monitor an issue with all the past users?


I'm coming up on two years a few months from now. I've been overclocked at 96Hz with daily use the whole time I've owned the monitor.


----------



## AngryFuture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I'm coming up on two years a few months from now. I've been overclocked at 96Hz with daily use the whole time I've owned the monitor.


Ever had to replace the power adapter?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryFuture*
> 
> Ever had to replace the power adapter?


I am using the original power brick, but I replaced the power cord with a 3-prong (US) grounded power cord.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5279&seq=1&format=2


----------



## lifesosian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I'm coming up on two years a few months from now. I've been overclocked at 96Hz with daily use the whole time I've owned the monitor.


do you notice pwm flickering with your qnix? or is there pwm flickering just that its not noticeable?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> do you notice pwm flickering with your qnix? or is there pwm flickering just that its not noticeable?


Some are pwm free some aren't.


----------



## gl3nnn

Does overclocking the monitor put any strain on the GPU?


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gl3nnn*
> 
> Does overclocking the monitor put any strain on the GPU?


a VERY tiny bit because the GPU must output a higher pixel clock.
It will put more "strain" on the GPU if you use vsync because the GPU will have a higher frame cap and thus be trying to draw more frames per second than on a lower cap. But that's what GPUs do, it isnt like it would break a GPU.


----------



## spypet

I did a search and could not find a clear answer, so I'm sorry to ask this again;

I have a pair of Sapphire 100352-3L Radeon 7950 xFire and wanted to know if;

I could still achieve a 96Hz overclock - or that only works with single GPU cards.

I've read of several single-7950 users that enjoy 96-120 without frame drops


----------



## Forceman

You should be able to overclock with Crossfire just fine.


----------



## hrockh

since dvi and hdmi carry the same signal (with different connection), you should be able to watch any 1080p content coming from a hdmi source (ie console). current consoles are limited to hdmi 1.4 so can't do more than 1080p with 60fps.
but hdmi 2.0 is out now and the Shield Android TV has it. will the console be able to output 1440p to the panel via a hdmi -> dual dvi converter?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifesosian*
> 
> do you notice pwm flickering with your qnix? or is there pwm flickering just that its not noticeable?


I haven't noticed flickering on my Qnix. But as you mentioned, maybe it's there but I just can't notice it.


----------



## dyscreet

Got mine working at 110hz, thanks for the guide!!


----------



## Raile

Can anyone recommend me a good power cable setup replacement? The stuff the monitor came with is a little shaky, and I want something to go with the 15ft DVI cable I bought for the mount I've got coming Tuesday.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Am I allowed to ask if anyone wants to buy a msi gaming edition r9 290 with a full cover ek block installed in the Uk?


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Am I allowed to ask if anyone wants to buy a msi gaming edition r9 290 with a full cover ek block installed in the Uk?


You sort of already did, didn't you? If you want to sell something on the forums, put it up in the "Overclock Marketplace"


----------



## Joe-Gamer

It was sneaky I know haha. Ok thanks for pointing me in the right direction.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Is there any way to change the gamma on just part of the screen? The dark patch on the top right when overclocked to 110-120hz is driving me nuts.


----------



## Dry Bonez

so noone still hasnt replied to my problem. I have 3x qnix monitors,which we know are native 1440p. My GPU doesnt have the horse power to drive 3x 1440p So i would like to find a way i can o triple 1080p instead of skipping between 1440p and 900p


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> so noone still hasnt replied to my problem. I have 3x qnix monitors,which we know are native 1440p. My GPU doesnt have the horse power to drive 3x 1440p So i would like to find a way i can o triple 1080p instead of skipping between 1440p and 900p


I think not too many people have 3x Qnix displays to be able to give you an answer. Maybe you can ask in the debezzled threads where more people do.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1397263/the-official-debezelled-monitor-club

http://www.overclock.net/t/1415278/debezeled-qnix-3-27-in-portrait-4320x2560-build-log-custom-frame-enclosure


----------



## Joe-Gamer

You could set a custom resolution at 5760*1080 across you monitors. Then in game select that resolution.


----------



## banjaxt1

Can anyone help me with an issue I have with a Qnix 2710LED? I was working fine up until I tried installing then new AMD 15.5 drivers, then the monitor no longer got picked up at post and would not display in ubuntu at all and only display in windows at really strange resolutions e.g. 1080p50hz with really strange results:


The right side has blue / turquoise lines and the screen boundaries do not extend into it. The bottom section repeats the top part of the screen. If i set it to 1080p60 which is the highest i can select in CCC it just cycles through the colours white - red - green -blue - black. The monitor comes up as a Generic non-PnP Monitor in device manager. CRU sees no detailed or standard resolutions by default and adding 2560x1440p60 causes the power LED to flash red, presumably not detecting input similar to how it acts during computer startup.

The gpu is a gigabyte 7950 and Im using the standard DVI-D lead that came with the monitor. Ive tried it with different cards and different computers with no success. The only thing i havent tried is the lead which i wont be able to test until wednesday.

Has anybody experienced this before? It's been working for a solid 6 months at 1440p100hz with no issues and it seems strange a driver update could break it. Could the monitor have died and it just be a coincidence to happen after the update?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> You could set a custom resolution at 5760*1080 across you monitors. Then in game select that resolution.


nope.it wont let me select custom resolution. please elaborate please because i already gave up


----------



## jkob55

I seem to be losing GPU performance with a higher clock. My setup is 970 SLI. If I leave the stock resolution and refresh rate, witcher 3 will get about 80-90fps. However, if I increase my refresh rate to 105 (my max without artifacting), then FPS drop signficantly from 50-60. I also notice that I get 95% GPU usage at stock refresh rate, and only 80 and 90 % GPU utilization at 105hz. Setting it to 96 hz in the NCP is is somewhere in between. So in summary it seems I am not getting full GPU utilization in games when running higher refresh rates. I have the qnix driver installed and am using the Nvidia control panel to make adjustments. What gives?


----------



## PcZac

Figure you guys might know best, where can I get a good cheap dual-link DVI to display port cord/adapter?

Is this a good option?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosejet-Golden-Plated-Displayport-to-DVI-DVI-I-Dual-Link-Female-TV-AV-Video-/261901931467?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfa9253cb

Also is there any dual link dvi things where I can plug 2 inputs in and switch between them? Something link this but cheaper?

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011004&p_id=4069&seq=1&format=2

Also that one doesn't support 1440p


----------



## Feyla

My desk with my 2nd Qnix







considering a 3rd already.. but I'd need to go SLI for that!


----------



## robb41488

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jkob55*
> 
> I seem to be losing GPU performance with a higher clock. My setup is 970 SLI. If I leave the stock resolution and refresh rate, witcher 3 will get about 80-90fps. However, if I increase my refresh rate to 105 (my max without artifacting), then FPS drop signficantly from 50-60. I also notice that I get 95% GPU usage at stock refresh rate, and only 80 and 90 % GPU utilization at 105hz. Setting it to 96 hz in the NCP is is somewhere in between. So in summary it seems I am not getting full GPU utilization in games when running higher refresh rates. I have the qnix driver installed and am using the Nvidia control panel to make adjustments. What gives?


Sounds to me like you may be hitting nvidia soft memory cap for the 970. The way they planned on fixing the 3.5gb of vram was a software fix to cap the card at 3.5gb so you wouldn't enter the choppy area they once did


----------



## Joe-Gamer

I do not know how to set a custom resolution for Nvidia cards, as I use AMD (980ti soon though!) Sorry Dry Bones!

Question- I have the X-star model @96hz. Would I be able to use a DVI-D dual link to Display port adapter for this screen? As the new GPUs seem to have less DVI ports than I use. Would there be any benefit or disadvantage using the adapter?


----------



## jkob55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robb41488*
> 
> Sounds to me like you may be hitting nvidia soft memory cap for the 970. The way they planned on fixing the 3.5gb of vram was a software fix to cap the card at 3.5gb so you wouldn't enter the choppy area they once did


Thanks for your response, though I don't understand how that would degrade performance. How would raising the fps cap raise the amount of vram being used. Not only that, but witcher 3 does not go over 3gb at all. It doesn't affect GTA v, so I'm starting to think its a bug related to witcher 3 multi - GPU use.


----------



## someonewhy

Do i have to use the patcher if i am running on 980 SLI?


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *someonewhy*
> 
> Do i have to use the patcher if i am running on 980 SLI?


Patcher is usually needed above 96Hz. You may not need it. Try to set a resolution without it and it it doesn't work, patch it and try again. Nothing to lose!


----------



## Jeffro422

So I had a power surge the other night. My 290x seems to be dead, same with my xstar 2710led. It turns on, and the light is blue, then just blinks red. No picture and the power brick isn't getting warm. The light on the power brick lights up green but that's it.

Just want to know if there is anything I should try. I've hooked it up to another working PC but can't get picture on it. I tried the dual link DVI cable with a different monitor and it works fine. I also tried using a different power cable connected to the power brick. I don't have another power brick but I can probably borrow one from a friend. Any help is greatly appreciated but I've already come to terms with the fact it's probably dead.


----------



## venom55520

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffro422*
> 
> So I had a power surge the other night. My 290x seems to be dead, same with my xstar 2710led. It turns on, and the light is blue, then just blinks red. No picture and the power brick isn't getting warm. The light on the power brick lights up green but that's it.
> 
> Just want to know if there is anything I should try. I've hooked it up to another working PC but can't get picture on it. I tried the dual link DVI cable with a different monitor and it works fine. I also tried using a different power cable connected to the power brick. I don't have another power brick but I can probably borrow one from a friend. Any help is greatly appreciated but I've already come to terms with the fact it's probably dead.


Yeah try the power brick first, but I doubt it's the issue. Seems like you just had really bad luck









Check if you can get it replaced through warranty, although that's gonna be rough. Also, I recommend a surge protector. A $20 investment will save you hundreds.


----------



## Jeffro422

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *venom55520*
> 
> Yeah try the power brick first, but I doubt it's the issue. Seems like you just had really bad luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check if you can get it replaced through warranty, although that's gonna be rough. Also, I recommend a surge protector. A $20 investment will save you hundreds.


Everything was plugged into surge protectors. The monitor and the PC were plugged into different surge protectors. My cable modem blew and it wasn't on a surge protector, I don't know if the surge could have come through the ethernet. I replaced the 290x with a 7950 and the PC booted up and wanted to disk check but seems to work fine. My second monitor didn't get fried for some reason.

We have a surge protector on the house where the power comes in so the power company is going to come look at it next week and if the surge came through the house they will cover the damages. We will see about that before I do anything with warranties.


----------



## DiceAir

So i have the qnix qx2710 evolution 2 with only 1 DVI port. Will this adapter work

http://www.hdcabling.co.za/male-hdmi-to-dvi-d-female-dual-link-adapter-gold-plated-connectors-p-753.html

I'm just looking for adapter so long cause it's been rumored that the new amd cards won't have any DVI port on it.


----------



## joeh4384

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So i have the qnix qx2710 evolution 2 with only 1 DVI port. Will this adapter work
> 
> http://www.hdcabling.co.za/male-hdmi-to-dvi-d-female-dual-link-adapter-gold-plated-connectors-p-753.html
> 
> I'm just looking for adapter so long cause it's been rumored that the new amd cards won't have any DVI port on it.


I am pretty sure you need an active display port adapter. I had to get one for my 2nd Qnix on my 295x2. Unfortunately, I cant OC my main monitor any more







.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh4384*
> 
> I am pretty sure you need an active display port adapter. I had to get one for my 2nd Qnix on my 295x2. Unfortunately, I cant OC my main monitor any more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


So the only one I can get is an hp one here in South Africa. So looks like I would have to ditch my qnix for something else. I would love to have either freesync or g-sync but one thing that's bothering is for example i go with freesync then chances i will only be locked down to using radeon gpu's for now if i want variable refresh rate so that's stupid and g-sync is even worse.

I can get this adapter http://www8.hp.com/za/en/products/oas/product-detail.html?oid=3929969

Will this work and will i be able to overclock using this


----------



## Dotachin

I hear the new AMD Fiji gpu's won't have a DVI port BUT since they will have one hdmi *2.0* port there should be no bandwith problems with a passive adapter. Is anyone planning on buying one and try?


----------



## Forceman

I'd be worried about overclocking with a passive adapter.


----------



## DiceAir

What about this adapter? Will this allow for overclocking my monitor http://www8.hp.com/za/en/products/oas/product-detail.html?oid=3929969


----------



## galaxie83

I also need to know what adapter to use. I have a GTX980 with only one DVI port and have one Qnix @ 100hz already. I would like to add two more Qnix monitors but would hate to have to spend over 200 dollars for two adapters.


----------



## jagsta21

is this the right monitor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1U38315


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dotachin*
> 
> I hear the new AMD Fiji gpu's won't have a DVI port BUT since they will have one hdmi *2.0* port there should be no bandwith problems with a passive adapter. Is anyone planning on buying one and try?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Mac*
> 
> edit: after further research, i dont think its possible, as it has the same limitation as DP.
> 
> Passive adapters work because there is a discrete signal
> 
> HDMI only has one signal regardless of the resolutio/refresh, so an active solution is the only choice.


So that's it, $100 active adapter or dust.


----------



## the9quad

With a DP to DVI-D adapter will i at least be able to do 60hz?


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> With a DP to DVI-D adapter will i at least be able to do 60hz?


http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/
I think that one may even do 120hz, but even that wouldn't be like having the real DVI port and it's not cheap.


----------



## penguinzrock

I recently got a QNIX2710, but I can't make it play with my ASUS monitor with both in DVI. I had to move my ASUS to HDMI to get my QNIX to display. Is there a reason for this? Also, Windows won't display the Aero theme and there are a bunch of lines during simple youtube playback. The color calibration profiles don't seem to do anything. Do I need to do something special with drivers to fix these problems?


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dotachin*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/
> I think that one may even do 120hz, but even that wouldn't be like having the real DVI port and it's not cheap.


That looks to be the one you want, yes.


----------



## Leinei

Is there any material difference between the X-Star and Qnix? Aside from PLS/AH-VA.

I've looked at some sites and some put the input lag for the X-star at 5 ms while the Qnix gets 8 ms. Like here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f <<---- notice input lag at 8 ms

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MULTI-2560x1440-AH-VA-Computer-Monitor-/331287795537?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d224a9751 <--- says 5 ms

Could that be the difference why the X-Star sells for considerably more? Or is AH-VA considered better for gaming? Any other reason? Or are the 5 ms/8ms claims BS?

Also, not a pro on tech but is there any problem with using Radeon 290 over DVI-D in Crossfire(I have two of the 290s)?


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leinei*
> 
> Is there any material difference between the X-Star and Qnix? Aside from PLS/AH-VA.
> 
> I've looked at some sites and some put the input lag for the X-star at 5 ms while the Qnix gets 8 ms. Like here.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f <<---- notice input lag at 8 ms
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MULTI-2560x1440-AH-VA-Computer-Monitor-/331287795537?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d224a9751 <--- says 5 ms
> 
> Could that be the difference why the X-Star sells for considerably more? Or is AH-VA considered better for gaming? Any other reason? Or are the 5 ms/8ms claims BS?
> 
> Also, not a pro on tech but is there any problem with using Radeon 290 over DVI-D in Crossfire(I have two of the 290s)?


Unless I'm mistaken they are the exact same panel inside. I think the discrepancy derives because different companies measure the change different. That could easily account for the difference. That being said, I notice no ghosting or lag with the Qnix monitor, most people won't see a lag until over 10ms or more.









Also, crossfire should be fine. It will push this panel well.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leinei*
> 
> Is there any material difference between the X-Star and Qnix? Aside from PLS/AH-VA.
> 
> I've looked at some sites and some put the input lag for the X-star at 5 ms while the Qnix gets 8 ms. Like here.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f <<---- notice input lag at 8 ms
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-MULTI-2560x1440-AH-VA-Computer-Monitor-/331287795537?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d224a9751 <--- says 5 ms
> 
> Could that be the difference why the X-Star sells for considerably more? Or is AH-VA considered better for gaming? Any other reason? Or are the 5 ms/8ms claims BS?
> 
> Also, not a pro on tech but is there any problem with using Radeon 290 over DVI-D in Crossfire(I have two of the 290s)?


Another difference, aside from the panels (PLS vs AH-VA), is that the x-star in the link is a multi-input display. The equivalent of this display is this one here. It should be avoided. I wouldnt go for the "off-grade" Qnix in your other link either. Because its "off-grade".


----------



## blued

I think a mod should notify the thread starter to update his OP. Qnix are no longer a solid recommended display anymore due to the panel switching (L02 vs L07) affecting the glossy models. And I have noticed 'menacing tuba' as stating the mattes now mostly use PWM. Forunately I do not have PWM in any of my displays and have thought most Qnix matte owners did not have this problem either. But do not know enough on this to be sure.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> I think a mod should notify the thread starter to update his OP. Qnix are no longer a solid recommended display anymore due to the panel switching (L02 vs L07) affecting the glossy models. And I have noticed 'menacing tuba' as stating the mattes now mostly use PWM. Forunately I do not have PWM in any of my displays and have thought most Qnix matte owners did not have this problem either. But do not know enough on this to be sure.


Agree, OP needs to be updated. I have a matte but it has PWM and gives me headaches at low brightness so I can only use the monitor during the daytime comfortably :/


----------



## Leinei

Thanks for all the helpful replies!

I read this Anandtech review of the Qnix and I focused on these sentences in particular:
Quote:


> The specs suggest that the QNIX can be overclocked to 120Hz by using a custom resolution setting for the video card, but I am unable to make it work in any configurations that I've tried (DisplayPort or DVI, AMD or NVIDIA cards). Going to 110Hz worked fine, but higher settings did not for me. It might be a panel lottery, where some work at 120Hz and some do not, but I wouldn't assume you will get 120 Hz to work for certain. Still, pushing beyond 60Hz is at least possible.
> 
> Update: Commenters pointed out that the QNIX "overclocks" by dropping frames. To test this I used the QNIX on TestUFO.com at both 90Hz and 60Hz and took 1/5 second exposures of the Frame Skipping Check. Below you can see screenshots showing that at 90Hz*, the QNIX is simply dropping frames instead of creating extra frames.* At 110Hz I began to get sparkles on the screen, obviously pushing the limits of what the panel can do. *Because of this, I'd discount any overclocking mentions from the QNIX as it isn't a true higher referesh rate panel.*


Source

Any truth to this? And does it affect the X-star as well?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leinei*
> 
> Thanks for all the helpful replies!
> 
> I read this Anandtech review of the Qnix and I focused on these sentences in particular:
> Source
> 
> Any truth to this? And does it affect the X-star as well?


That's the True10 model. It does not overclock to 120Hz and that's been stated all over the thread. The information is in the OP.


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leinei*
> 
> Thanks for all the helpful replies!
> 
> I read this Anandtech review of the Qnix and I focused on these sentences in particular:
> Source
> 
> Any truth to this? And does it affect the X-star as well?


The one reviewed is an AUOptronics AHVA display

Always check the comments section. If the panel skipped frames someone here would have noticed it.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leinei*
> 
> Thanks for all the helpful replies!
> 
> I read this Anandtech review of the Qnix and I focused on these sentences in particular:
> Source
> 
> Any truth to this? And does it affect the X-star as well?


This is not the same Qnix QX2710 that made them so popular. ONLY the single input PLS models are the ones of interest.. No multi-input, no Ah-VA is any good. Quite silly for a couple of the major sites to review the wrong models.

Anyway, you have been warned. Any Qnix right now on offer (incl the single input mattes) may not be the best choice for a monitor, esp since there is a likelihood it may have PWM, which makes it a lottery.

This looks like a better bet for time being:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


----------



## piee

I have 07 glossy great panel oc to 120 with 4790k gtx980 1486mhz oc
ufo tested no drops
no pwm at max brite than lower usingNVCP to 27 brite, looks great,one dead pxl to right


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piee*
> 
> I have 07 glossy great panel oc to 120 with 4790k gtx980 1486mhz oc
> ufo tested no drops
> no pwm at max brite than lower usingNVCP to 27 brite, looks great,one dead pxl to right


I am sure it will look great. But what happens if you have L02 compared side to side?






Sorry, not to rain on your parade, if you are happy with it, its all that matters.


----------



## the9quad

After a year or so at 120hz i went back to 60 hz full time. I do think that running the pixel clock that high causes instability on my pc. Ever since i built this PC i have been running at 120hz. Periodically I would get a random checkerboard pattern in games followed by a very very very hard crash of the drivers (so bad the cards would not be recognized as having drivers until i reinstalled them.) I figured it was just AMD drivers or it was a bad card out of one of my three cards. About a month or two ago, I quit overclocking the monitor and no longer used the pixel patcher or CRU, and for the last month(s) this has not happened one single time. It was so bad originally that I would avoid certain games where it happened frequently, and basically only played the games that didnt have this behavior.

It was a very weird problem and hard to diagnose because it was random, and some games worked fine and others it only happened under specific circumstance (BF4- Zavod in the tunnel for instance.) Anyway, I am glad i narrowed it down, and I am now gaming flawlessly with no crashes or corruption ever.

Just thought i would share my isue in case anyone in the future runs into a similar problem. It is probably just one of my cards not able to handle that pixel clock, and not something someone else would run into, but I thought I would post it anyway.

I really don't miss the 120hz to be honest. It is still a good monitor, and with the state of CFX in most games, it was hard to get that 120fps anyway with everything cranked. Also my pc is quieter with the frames capped at 60 now lol. The good thing is with tri-fire there are very very few games i cant max out at 1440p and maintain a solid 60 fps.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> After a year or so at 120hz i went back to 60 hz full time. I do think that running the pixel clock that high causes instability on my pc. Ever since i built this PC i have been running at 120hz. Periodically I would get a random checkerboard pattern in games followed by a very very very hard crash of the drivers (so bad the cards would not be recognized as having drivers until i reinstalled them.) I figured it was just AMD drivers or it was a bad card out of one of my three cards. About a month or two ago, I quit overclocking the monitor and no longer used the pixel patcher or CRU, and for the last month(s) this has not happened one single time. It was so bad originally that I would avoid certain games where it happened frequently, and basically only played the games that didnt have this behavior.
> 
> It was a very weird problem and hard to diagnose because it was random, and some games worked fine and others it only happened under specific circumstance (BF4- Zavod in the tunnel for instance.) Anyway, I am glad i narrowed it down, and I am now gaming flawlessly with no crashes or corruption ever.
> 
> Just thought i would share my isue in case anyone in the future runs into a similar problem. It is probably just one of my cards not able to handle that pixel clock, and not something someone else would run into, but I thought I would post it anyway.
> 
> I really don't miss the 120hz to be honest. It is still a good monitor, and with the state of CFX in most games, it was hard to get that 120fps anyway with everything cranked. Also my pc is quieter with the frames capped at 60 now lol. The good thing is with tri-fire there are very very few games i cant max out at 1440p and maintain a solid 60 fps.


Worth it lol.


----------



## the9quad

Not really, the only game it ever made a real difference in was BF4 MP. The rest of the stuff I play, I dint notice much difference. Im an old guy with old guy eyes,lol. I will more than likely get one of those for real ips 120hz monitors when i upgrade again, until then 60hz is fine for me.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Not really, the only game it ever made a real difference in was BF4 MP. The rest of the stuff I play, I dint notice much difference. Im an old guy with old guy eyes,lol. I will more than likely get one of those for real ips 120hz monitors when i upgrade again, until then 60hz is fine for me.


Don't know but if it's just me but I tried 60hz again and I can see the difference clearly in games. But again that was in bf4. i will test crysis3 60hz vs 96hz again. I also noticed that 120hz is pushing this panel a bit so maybe try 96hz if you can.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Don't know but if it's just me but I tried 60hz again and I can see the difference clearly in games. But again that was in bf4. i will test crysis3 60hz vs 96hz again. I also noticed that 120hz is pushing this panel a bit so maybe try 96hz if you can.


The panel can handle 120hz fine, the video cards are whats having the issue. Even at 96hz it causes an issue.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> The panel can handle 120hz fine, the video cards are whats having the issue. Even at 96hz it causes an issue.


oh ok I understand. Try the following driver and make sure you have the most up to date ati patcher

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=399691

I'm using it and for me it's awesome. I get better crossfire perfromance and it's so smooth. Still it could be the card that doesn't handle the refresh rate on DVI. i had a card that was having green lines unless i bump up the memory clock. I decided to RMA the card, got a new one and it worked. Also make sure ulps is off as this can also help with stability. I'm sure you tested all of this but just to be sure I suggested it anyway.

Oh sorry I see you also on guru3d forums. Anyway someone else must help you then cause I don't know that much about these things


----------



## Ghostcode

I apologize if this has been answered but I couldn't find a clear cut answer.

I'm thinking about picking up a new 980 Ti, which only has 1 dual link DVI.

I'm also thinking about picking up a third QNIX - I already own two at 96hz with a GTX 970 (2 DVI's non issue)

My question is if I replace the GTX 970 with a 980 Ti, and want to run 3 QNIX at 96hz+ is this doable? Is the only way to use 2 active display port adapters to DVI? I essentially want to run 3 of them from a single 980 Ti, all overclocked to at least 96hz.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostcode*
> 
> I apologize if this has been answered but I couldn't find a clear cut answer.
> 
> I'm thinking about picking up a new 980 Ti, which only has 1 dual link DVI.
> 
> I'm also thinking about picking up a third QNIX - I already own two at 96hz with a GTX 970 (2 DVI's non issue)
> 
> My question is if I replace the GTX 970 with a 980 Ti, and want to run 3 QNIX at 96hz+ is this doable? Is the only way to use 2 active display port adapters to DVI? I essentially want to run 3 of them from a single 980 Ti, all overclocked to at least 96hz.


Bro,me and you are in the saaaame exact boat! buuuut i did some research and found a solution without having to get an active adapter. Also,i dont think you can game with just 1 980. It will not let you as i have gtx 580 SLI and it will not let me use 3 on one card,so in order for this to work,you need to have a 2nd card. Now that we got that out the way,i really want the new 980ti upgrading from my 580s as i have 3x qnix monitors as well(single input),and the ONLY 980ti card that i saw that has 2x dvi ports is the gigabyte g1 windforce. Which from what i heard are amazing cards.


----------



## rotax9

Is anyone else having trouble with the links posted in the beginning of the tread?

I'm trying to re-do my overclock since I reinstalled my OS and I can't patch my monitor with the amd pixel clock because none of the links work anymore. I get an error from mybb saying that there are "too many connections" or something like that. Not really sure what this error is but I looked it up and it seemed that this is a problem on the hosts side. Is there anywhere else I can find the download?


----------



## Player433

That's exactly what I came here for as well. Hopefully it comes back soon.


----------



## WinterWarz

Hey guys, I swapped my 970 for a 290 and now my Qnix monitor is showing weird lines. I'm using the same DVI cable as before and the computer picks up the monitor but they don't go away.

Is there a fix for this or is the monitor dead? I ordered it in February from accessorieswhole so I should still have warranty.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WinterWarz*
> 
> Hey guys, I swapped my 970 for a 290 and now my Qnix monitor is showing weird lines. I'm using the same DVI cable as before and the computer picks up the monitor but they don't go away.
> 
> Is there a fix for this or is the monitor dead? I ordered it in February from accessorieswhole so I should still have warranty.


Certainly wont be the monitor if all you did was switch out the cards. Is the monitor doing the lines in your motherboard's bios? If so it is likely a problem with the 290. Do you still have the 970? Try switching the monitor to the othwr dvi port on the 290. If negative, try puttibg the 970 back in to test the monitor. AMD overclocking requires patching the driver and using cru, but it should work at 60hz without any of that obviously.


----------



## HappyHimitsu

EDIT: Ok, so after another look it appears as though one of the transistors on the board has actually started leaking black gunk and is damaged. Anybody got a good tutorial on how to replace these things??









So a few days ago my kids and I returned from a day at the campground, and upon plugging in our year-old Qnix 2710 (I had unplugged the part that connects right to the monitor for some dumb reason, been under a lot of stress lately due to a divorce) we were greeted with a popping sound and the smell of burning electronics.
Now, the monitor won't turn on and the standby light won't come on either, we only get more smell.
I took things apart to look at the board, and there are some definitely smellier parts on the board and small section on the backside looks slightly burnt, but in an area where there are no electronic components and all the traces, caps and everything else look intact.

I figure it will likely be much easier for me to replace the board than try to figure things out, but wanted to ask the community for both ideas on a) how I might fix the board and b) where I can purchase a new one!!

Part number of the board is DPL-2560LS.Rev.01 but I can't find anything except for a site that is no longer up and a few references to ebay.

Thanks!


----------



## llovro

I'm looking to buy a Korean monitor and I'm wondering which (if any) seller is the most flexible when it comes to customs (putting a lower price on the package etc.)?


----------



## DiceAir

so I've just seen the gigabyte 980ti soc review and man must say impressive. Here is the issue. I don't now with dx12 coming and all that if I should ditch my r9 280x crossfire and get 1x gtx 980ti. Here is the review

http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-980-ti-g1-gaming-soc-review,1.html

i will wait for some more cards to come out to see performance but that aside the benefit is that you get better cooling, lower power and it's single card. Still unsure about it. It comes with DVI unlike AMD fury that might not come with dvi so have to get adapater and suffer overclocking


----------



## emin911

Ok, so here is my question

I DONT need to overclock the monitor, I am fine with 60Hz. Should I get the true10 AH-VA panel? or is it still better to get the PLS panel? Only reason I want the true10 is because of the HDMI port.


----------



## HICKFARM

Alright so my QNIX QX2710 arrived today and it looks great at 60HZ. No dead pixels and can't find any noticeable light bleed.

But I can't seem to overclock it at all. Following the tutorial on page 1 of the thread. I have an ATI 280X, newest drivers, installed qnix display driver, and have applied the patch for unlocking the clocks. Using DVI cable that came with display, but i do have a 24AWG cable in the mail from Amazon. I am using CRU tool and can set custom clock speeds. The only one that works at all is when I set it to a clock of 72. But this still has artifacting in it. When I try 96hz the screen just goes to staticy lines and can't make out anything. Also when set to 72hz the UFO test still only shows 60hz. Am I missing something here? I have been reading all week about these monitors and how to set them up, but I could of easily of missed something.

Oh and ebay seller's shipping was awesome. Arrived in 2 days from South Korea to Nebraska, was impressed.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emin911*
> 
> Ok, so here is my question
> 
> I DONT need to overclock the monitor, I am fine with 60Hz. Should I get the true10 AH-VA panel? or is it still better to get the PLS panel? Only reason I want the true10 is because of the HDMI port.


No, its not a good monitor overall. Review.

Also you have to be careful when buying multi-input low cost Korean monitors. Some use cheap PCBs that dont have proper brightness controls, ie, contrast is severely impacted when adjusting brightness. If you want a decent low cost 1440p monitor with HDMI, then look at the Crossover 2720MDP GOLD LED.

List of recommended 27" 1440p monitors.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HICKFARM*
> 
> Alright so my QNIX QX2710 arrived today and it looks great at 60HZ. No dead pixels and can't find any noticeable light bleed.
> 
> But I can't seem to overclock it at all. Following the tutorial on page 1 of the thread. I have an ATI 280X, newest drivers, installed qnix display driver, and have applied the patch for unlocking the clocks. Using DVI cable that came with display, but i do have a 24AWG cable in the mail from Amazon. I am using CRU tool and can set custom clock speeds. The only one that works at all is when I set it to a clock of 72. But this still has artifacting in it. When I try 96hz the screen just goes to staticy lines and can't make out anything. Also when set to 72hz the UFO test still only shows 60hz. Am I missing something here? I have been reading all week about these monitors and how to set them up, but I could of easily of missed something.
> 
> Oh and ebay seller's shipping was awesome. Arrived in 2 days from South Korea to Nebraska, was impressed.


Ok had to edit my whole post cause I didn't check your post properly. So I see you have the same one as me. Now i don't know about the new models but I'm sure they can get 96hz with not much hassle.

Ok first things first. Not all panels can overclock well and it looks like yours can't. Did you install the latest drivers and ati patcher. Make sure you use the latest cru app as well. I doubt a 24awg will make a difference because you can not even get 96hz on standard cable but it's worth a try. Some people can reach 120hz and some even higher with 0 issues but for me i can only do 96hz. It's still a very good overclock but yeah I don't know what else to say. Maybe try the following settings

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club

if that doesn't work then I think you out of luck or your gpu can't handle the load. regarding the 72hz issue some browsers have issues with it and maximize your browser. If you have another monitor remove it first and test. use chrome cause I know that works with higher refresh rate


----------



## emin911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> No, its not a good monitor overall. Review.
> 
> Also you have to be careful when buying multi-input low cost Korean monitors. Some use cheap PCBs that dont have proper brightness controls, ie, contrast is severely impacted when adjusting brightness. If you want a decent low cost 1440p monitor with HDMI, then look at the Crossover 2720MDP GOLD LED.
> 
> List of recommended 27" 1440p monitors.


I have decided to drop the HDMI, and just go with a Single Input DVI.

Is this the best to get? I heard the "SE" is better?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emin911*
> 
> I have decided to drop the HDMI, and just go with a Single Input DVI.
> 
> Is this the best to get? I heard the "SE" is better?


All Qnix monitors are now in question, both mattes and glossy. If you had bought a year ago, you would be good. Changes in specs, material, quality appear to have occurred since. Mattes have a high chance of coming with PWM. Glossies like the one you link to, well 



.

You may want to look here for a 1440p overclockable alternative.


----------



## Kalmado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WinterWarz*
> 
> Hey guys, I swapped my 970 for a 290 and now my Qnix monitor is showing weird lines. I'm using the same DVI cable as before and the computer picks up the monitor but they don't go away.
> 
> Is there a fix for this or is the monitor dead? I ordered it in February from accessorieswhole so I should still have warranty.


Mine does the exact same thing on anything over 80hz. The only thing I'm changing is the hz and nothing else. I'm running crossfire 290x. What's strange, is when I had a single 970 I started at 96 and left it there. No issues.

If someone sees an error in this method please let me know!


----------



## renji1337

I got a qnix 2 years ago, does this one also use PWM? what changes have happend. I saw they were moved from best to worst.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emin911*
> 
> I have decided to drop the HDMI, and just go with a Single Input DVI.
> 
> Is this the best to get? I heard the "SE" is better?


the SE is arguably a little worse. It's the "Second edition" and has sloppier quality control. The non SE displays however are much harder to find.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Randomly came across this thread after a long... kind of forgetting about it. I just retired my Qnix after quite a long run of 96hz 1440p happiness. Just wanted to mention I have had zero issues from mine in all this time and it's going to continue life with someone else. 40" of 4k glory has taken over my life now


----------



## Levelog

Anyone have luck with HDMI-DVI for overclocking?


----------



## Plonide

I have a couple of questions I hope you guys can clear up.

1. Why do I see DVI Dual link specs mention that max resolution is 2560 x 1600 @60 Hz if people here can get 120 Hz

2. I'm sure you noticed that the new Fury cards from AMD don't have DVI ports to connect these monitors.
I've googled around a bit and found displayport to dvi dual cable converters, it seems that the simple convertor cables cannot handle more than 1920x1080
but the ones that come with an adapter seem to support 2560 x 1440.

3. Would these adapters also support higher refresh rates like 96 Hz or even 120 Hz?

I hope we'll see custom cards from other vendors who will add DVI ports but if it doesn't happen I'm wondering what the best is I can do with the beastly Fury cards and these monitors.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plonide*
> 
> I have a couple of questions I hope you guys can clear up.
> 
> 1. Why do I see DVI Dual link specs mention that max resolution is 2560 x 1600 @60 Hz if people here can get 120 Hz


Official specs are 60hz 1440p *but* assuming all the components are capable, including the cable, DVI can handle more than 60hz. This is why the sellers cannot and will not guarantee *any* OC results. It depends on the GPU and the cable used. My first Qnix was artifacting above 76hz, switched the cable out for one i bought at a local shop and boom 110Hz was possible just because of that.
Quote:


> 2. I'm sure you noticed that the new Fury cards from AMD don't have DVI ports to connect these monitors.
> I've googled around a bit and found displayport to dvi dual cable converters, it seems that the simple convertor cables cannot handle more than 1920x1080
> but the ones that come with an adapter seem to support 2560 x 1440.
> 3. Would these adapters also support higher refresh rates like 96 Hz or even 120 Hz?
> 
> I hope we'll see custom cards from other vendors who will add DVI ports but if it doesn't happen I'm wondering what the best is I can do with the beastly Fury cards and these monitors.


I haven't seen any posts confirming any of the adapters working higher than 96Hz but that doesn't mean they don't exist. *Most* adapters will be limited to 60Hz and you'll have to scream to get anyone to assist with which to choose or just start testing them and returning them if not. I don't think I'd go this route tbh. OC refresh rates are a bit of a pain on AMD, but doable thanks to Toastyx.


----------



## HICKFARM

Alright I was able to fix my whole overclocking issue with a brand new DVI cable. I am hitting 96hz now with no frame skipping (Wasn't even stable at 72hz with Qnix QX2710 stock cable). Only problem is my desktop background is glitchy and has a random line or so go across the top. Chrome has no problems with it though.

Still need to try some games out at the higher HZ and see how it is. To bad my 280x can't candle GTA5 at 96 FPS at this resolution. 60 FPS is good enough for me.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HICKFARM*
> 
> Alright I was able to fix my whole overclocking issue with a brand new DVI cable. I am hitting 96hz now with no frame skipping (Wasn't even stable at 72hz with Qnix QX2710 stock cable). Only problem is my desktop background is glitchy and has a random line or so go across the top. Chrome has no problems with it though.
> 
> Still need to try some games out at the higher HZ and see how it is. To bad my 280x can't candle GTA5 at 96 FPS at this resolution. 60 FPS is good enough for me.


are you using custom timings? You can reduce the timings and eliminate those lines. Takes some trial and error but it's harmless to mess with and it does work. If you want more info I can provide.


----------



## rhylton88

Hello, I am new to this forum and I have been encountering a strange problem. Whenever I overclock my X-star to 120hz my screen is much dimmer than what it is at 60hz. It even seems like the dimming is more profound on the right side of the monitor but that could just be my eyes playing tricks. Is this normal? Is it due to my D-DVI cable? I am running 2 GTX 780's in SLI. I have read that SLI can cause problems when trying to overclock this monitor. Is it because I am using NVCP to overclock my montior? I have tried using CRU but I can't seem to figure out quite how it works. I have tried a couple different monitor drivers that were in the overclocking forum for this monitor but that seems to make no difference. I also have patched my monitor using ToastyX's patcher but it seems to have done nothing.

Basically is this normal and should I use a Calibration guide? Or is this a problem with the monitor just not being suitable for 120hz? Or is this even a problem with the software I am using to overclock my monitor.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Forceman

That gamma shift is common when overclocking. You might try a lower refresh rate and see if it helps even out the sides.


----------



## rhylton88

Thank you, would you consider a dim screen a stable overclock? I'm just asking because the person I bought the monitor from never mentioned anything about the dimming and they advertised it as 120hz stable overclock. I have been talking back and forth with this person and they are of the reasoning that my problem is with not using CRU to overclock.


----------



## rhylton88

It seems around 100hz the monitor starts to noticeably dim. At 90hz I can't seem to tell the difference with 60hz.


----------



## Forceman

The method of overclocking shouldn't matter (CRU or NVCP), but it's possible that a Nvidia card might be different than an AMD (if that's what the seller had).


----------



## rhylton88

Is there anyway around this or to stop it from happening?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhylton88*
> 
> Is there anyway around this or to stop it from happening?


I don't know if playing with the timings would help or not (and you'd have to use CRU for that, I think). Running at 96Hz might be your best bet it bothers you.


----------



## rhylton88

I'd be fine with using CRU to do it if I could figure out how to work it. I create my profiles but I don't know how to enable them. They don't show up in windows display settings or NVCP


----------



## electro2u

Forceman is correct as usual.









The issue of dimming is just the nature of OCing monitors on dvi. Timings help with scan lines and wont affect the dimming









Nvidia CP does now allow for custom timings. My catleap is a complete mess of lines with standard timings but lowering them as much as possible gets rid of the lines.

Qnix xstar monitors seem to dim unevenly at high overcloks. For whatever reason my Yamakasi dims the same across the whole panel. Maybe a difference between PLS and IPS but no real idea why.


----------



## rhylton88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Forceman is correct as usual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The issue of dimming is just the nature of OCing monitors on dvi. Timings help with scan lines and wont affect the dimming


So there is no fix? It's just the monitor? Would the person selling the monitor have known about the dimming or could their setup have been different?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhylton88*
> 
> So there is no fix? It's just the monitor? Would the person selling the monitor have known about the dimming or could their setup have been different?


The only fix is to lower the overclock. All of them do it so it's not really something a seller would think needed to be addressed, though it probably should by the big ebay sellers with all their disclaimers and warnings. It's certainly discussed in the serious reviews by Menacing Tuba and others.

I've been leaving my monitor at 60Hz a lot lately unless I'm gaming. Even then, a lot of the games I run are 60fps so it doesn't make much difference having them at 120Hz.
90Hz is the important number for me to be able to hit because it allows for perfect vsync with games that will stutter at refresh rates like 96hz that arent in multiples of 30. So many games have 30fps prerendered full motion video scenes and those will tear horribly for whatever reason.

Then again lots of people like to run without vsync because it causes input delay. I would rather just not play than get tearing and stutters.


----------



## rhylton88

I want to use V-Sync in games. Would 96Hz or 90Hz be preferable.


----------



## oneilljstn

The dimming can be fixed by using a custom colour profile or just tweaking the colour settings in NCP. It can take some fiddling to get it just right, but its definitely a solution. As for the uneven dimming, the only fix is to lower the over clock as a few others have mentioned.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhylton88*
> 
> I want to use V-Sync in games. Would 96Hz or 90Hz be preferable.


In Tomb Raider 60/90/120hz. The fmvs will tear at 96hz or 100hz, as an example.

For a racing sim like iRacing any refresh rate should be fine.


----------



## blued

Dimming from OC'ing is the gamma rising. It seems to only affect Qnix/X-star PLS panels (newer Qnix units do not have this issue but have other problems, ie, inferior panels on glossy versions, high incidence of PWM on mattes). Easily correctable with color profiles (use 6500k). Best if one has a colorimeter to make their own profiles that exactly match their display. Fortunately with QNix/X-stars their is a higher degree of consistency between panels where using others profiles can get decent results.

Catleap 2b (IPS) do not have this dimming problem, but may have scanning artifacts above 100z.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Catleap 2b (IPS) do not have this dimming problem, but may have scanning artifacts above 100z.


When I turn mine on it dims evenly across the entire panel right after. I thought it was from the overclock but maybe it just does it all the time.


----------



## Plonide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Official specs are 60hz 1440p *but* assuming all the components are capable, including the cable, DVI can handle more than 60hz. This is why the sellers cannot and will not guarantee *any* OC results. It depends on the GPU and the cable used. My first Qnix was artifacting above 76hz, switched the cable out for one i bought at a local shop and boom 110Hz was possible just because of that.
> 
> I haven't seen any posts confirming any of the adapters working higher than 96Hz but that doesn't mean they don't exist. *Most* adapters will be limited to 60Hz and you'll have to scream to get anyone to assist with which to choose or just start testing them and returning them if not. I don't think I'd go this route tbh. OC refresh rates are a bit of a pain on AMD, but doable thanks to Toastyx.


Thanks for clarifying. These adapters can be quite pricey so I'm not sure if it's worth it. On the fence whether I should shell out the cash for one and be happy with 2560x1440 @60Hz or get myself a new monitor with freesync. I'll wait some more and hope non reference Fury designs show up with DVI ports. Could turn out to be an expensive month.


----------



## Sneerz

By default, my monitor has a strong yellow tint to it. I highly doubt it is 6500k, more like 4500k from what I remember flux looking like, although I no longer use it. I have tried color profiles using the color sustainer, modifying the colors in the nvidia control panel, but nothing makes this yellow go away. My whites are clearly yellow and I wish I could make whites just pure white as they should be. Does anyone have an idea how to fix this? Thanks.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HICKFARM*
> 
> Alright I was able to fix my whole overclocking issue with a brand new DVI cable. I am hitting 96hz now with no frame skipping (Wasn't even stable at 72hz with Qnix QX2710 stock cable). Only problem is my desktop background is glitchy and has a random line or so go across the top. Chrome has no problems with it though.
> 
> Still need to try some games out at the higher HZ and see how it is. To bad my 280x can't candle GTA5 at 96 FPS at this resolution. 60 FPS is good enough for me.


Glad you got it pinned down! That is really rare that the stock cable would perform that badly. I'm surprised it worked at all as it seems to be a bad cable period. To be honest the majority of users here have had the best results with the stock (5') cable. Monoprice and Cablematters were the two most popular substitutes and most would perform the same as the stock or worse, BUT sometimes guys might get 3-4Hz improvement, but that was the *exception* NOT the rule! After setting up several of these monitors I stuck with the stock cable for overclocking with all but one of them, I even tried a heavier gage Cablematters on an underperforming 96Hz monitor and saw no improvement.

As for the few glitches try some custom timings *HERE* ... Electro is right, and I think your right on the edge of being fully stable, thought I linked you already, link is also in my sig









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhylton88*
> 
> Hello, I am new to this forum and I have been encountering a strange problem. Whenever I overclock my X-star to 120hz my screen is much dimmer than what it is at 60hz. It even seems like the dimming is more profound on the right side of the monitor but that could just be my eyes playing tricks. Is this normal? Is it due to my D-DVI cable? I am running 2 GTX 780's in SLI. I have read that SLI can cause problems when trying to overclock this monitor. Is it because I am using NVCP to overclock my montior? I have tried using CRU but I can't seem to figure out quite how it works. I have tried a couple different monitor drivers that were in the overclocking forum for this monitor but that seems to make no difference. I also have patched my monitor using ToastyX's patcher but it seems to have done nothing.
> 
> Basically is this normal and should I use a Calibration guide? Or is this a problem with the monitor just not being suitable for 120hz? Or is this even a problem with the software I am using to overclock my monitor.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *oneilljstn*
> 
> The dimming can be fixed by using a custom colour profile or just tweaking the colour settings in NCP. It can take some fiddling to get it just right, but its definitely a solution. As for the uneven dimming, the only fix is to lower the over clock as a few others have mentioned.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Dimming from OC'ing is the gamma rising. It seems to only affect Qnix/X-star PLS panels (newer Qnix units do not have this issue but have other problems, ie, inferior panels on glossy versions, high incidence of PWM on mattes). Easily correctable with color profiles (use 6500k). Best if one has a colorimeter to make their own profiles that exactly match their display. Fortunately with QNix/X-stars their is a higher degree of consistency between panels where using others profiles can get decent results.
> 
> Catleap 2b (IPS) do not have this dimming problem, but may have scanning artifacts above 100z.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

The gamma increase (dimming) of the overall panel when overclocked is totally normal for the older panels and is easily corrected with a custom ICC profile ... see the 1st page "OP" and "Color Sustainer" by Yasamoka. Now the stronger dimming on the right side (bad uniformity) is caused by an unstable overclock. CRU is not needed to overclock your setup and sometimes even causes more conflicts (see OC guide in my sig). Try the custom profiles 1st or better yet calibrate yourself if you have the tools, see if that is sufficient and/or move on to lowering your overclock and/or try custom timings. Ideally you should stabilize your OC 1st then do the custom profiles for gamma correction, but try the profiles 1st if you want it won't hurt anything ... let us know how it works out









@Oneilljstn and Blued are right on "QFT" +Reps








Bit surprised Electro and Forceman confused/missed this


----------



## HICKFARM

Ya I need to try the custom timings still and am sure it will fix the lines at the top of my screen.

So what do you guys use to calibrate the colors on the monitor? What brightness do you run at? I have read that I need to run some utility to keep the color profile in use even in a video game. Will have to look into it a bit more after work.

For now it looks great and don't regret buying the monitor at all. Was kicking myself a bit for not buying the crossover 2795, but I don't notice any PWM on the backlight. Just need to try a game like League of Legends out at 96hz and see if it makes much of a difference. Teamfights in that game can get intense with everything going on, so hopefully it will help.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sneerz*
> 
> By default, my monitor has a strong yellow tint to it. I highly doubt it is 6500k, more like 4500k from what I remember flux looking like, although I no longer use it. I have tried color profiles using the color sustainer, modifying the colors in the nvidia control panel, but nothing makes this yellow go away. My whites are clearly yellow and I wish I could make whites just pure white as they should be. Does anyone have an idea how to fix this? Thanks.


You can rent a colorimeter. Can have it delivered and return it like a movie. I used an x-rite i1Display Pro to measure and correct color temperature and white balance.


----------



## fullban

I am selling x2 of my qnix (debezeled monitors) both overclock to 120hz fine would come without stands or could maybe rebezel them back to standard.

also selling a dp2dvi active adapter which can overclock 1 monitor upto 104hz with tighter timings.

any offers welcome im from the uk


----------



## KenshiHH

Hey,
got a small question.
i bought a x-star about 1 1/2 years ago. always running it at 110hz and 96 for movies.

but about half a year ago some weird pattern started to appear on the bottom of my display.



only got a ****ty smartphone cam right now so sry for the quality but i adjusted the levels a bit with photoshop to see it better.

anyone else saw something similar ?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> I am selling x2 of my qnix (debezeled monitors) both overclock to 120hz fine would come without stands or could maybe rebezel them back to standard.
> 
> also selling a dp2dvi active adapter which can overclock 1 monitor upto 104hz with tighter timings.
> 
> any offers welcome im from the uk


What adapter did you use to get that overclock?


----------



## titsmcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> I am selling x2 of my qnix (debezeled monitors) both overclock to 120hz fine would come without stands or could maybe rebezel them back to standard.
> 
> also selling a dp2dvi active adapter which can overclock 1 monitor upto 104hz with tighter timings.
> 
> any offers welcome im from the uk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> What adapter did you use to get that overclock?


Seconded. I am looking to upgrade my GPU to a new Fury, Fury X, or 980TI and would like to at least get the 96hz at 2560x1440 I can get out of each of my Qnix. If I can't do that, I may have to suck it up and buy older card with 2 Dual Link DVI like my asus r9 280X crossfire.


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titsmcgee*
> 
> Seconded. I am looking to upgrade my GPU to a new Fury, Fury X, or 980TI and would like to at least get the 96hz at 2560x1440 I can get out of each of my Qnix. If I can't do that, I may have to suck it up and buy older card with 2 Dual Link DVI like my asus r9 280X crossfire.


http://heavy.com/tech/2015/06/gigabyte-shows-off-the-g1-gaming-gtx-980-ti-graphics-card/


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dotachin*
> 
> http://heavy.com/tech/2015/06/gigabyte-shows-off-the-g1-gaming-gtx-980-ti-graphics-card/


that card looks good but what if fury x is actually better but doesn't come with dvi. Then we sit with a major issue. We get a whole new setup with new screen or go Nvidia that might be more expensive (don't know if they will drop prices) and might be slower just to get dual link DVI. That's dumb. I will wait for dx12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titsmcgee*
> 
> Seconded. I am looking to upgrade my GPU to a new Fury, Fury X, or 980TI and would like to at least get the 96hz at 2560x1440 I can get out of each of my Qnix. If I can't do that, I may have to suck it up and buy older card with 2 Dual Link DVI like my asus r9 280X crossfire.


I say wait for dx12 first before you upgrade. Our cards are still very good. I can play at least on high and get my 96fps in most games. When dx12 games comes out and you can not run it then we can really see what is better. No reason to upgrade right now cause what if for example nvidai is on top in dx11 and amd on top in dx12. I will wait and see where it goes. Maybe my system is even strong enough when dx12 comes out and maybe my crossfire will get better use.


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> What adapter did you use to get that overclock?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titsmcgee*
> 
> Seconded. I am looking to upgrade my GPU to a new Fury, Fury X, or 980TI and would like to at least get the 96hz at 2560x1440 I can get out of each of my Qnix. If I can't do that, I may have to suck it up and buy older card with 2 Dual Link DVI like my asus r9 280X crossfire.


this 1 off amazon it has to be that exact model number

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00856WJH8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

and use these tighter timings in cru .as u can see I think this adapter wont go above 400 pixel clock (I could only squeeze 104hz which is great)


----------



## Charlie B

I'm planning on buying the new amd card and am in desperate need for an adapter that supports 1440p while keeping my overclock at 96hz. Any suggestions?


----------



## fullban

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie B*
> 
> I'm planning on buying the new amd card and am in desperate need for an adapter that supports 1440p while keeping my overclock at 96hz. Any suggestions?


check my post before yours


----------



## Charlie B

It says that it supports 2560 x 1600 @ 60Hz in the description. Has your overclock been stable? And I also don't understand how changing the timing works. Would that affect the monitor in any way?


----------



## Charlie B

It says that it supports 2560 x 1600 @ 60Hz in the description. Has your overclock been stable? And I also don't understand how changing the timing works. Would that affect the monitor in any way?


----------



## fullban

if you are only using 1or 2 monitors u don't need an adapter just use the dvi outs on the card and overclock upto 120hz (assuming its a 280 or 290)
u only need an adapter if the gfx card hasn't got dualdvi ports

no It doesn't affect the monitor and the different timings lowers the pixel clock to allow a few more hz I think just a standard cru overclock it supported upto 95hz

just change CRU settings to the pic I posted


----------



## Charlie B

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullban*
> 
> if you are only using 1or 2 monitors u don't need an adapter just use the dvi outs on the card and overclock upto 120hz (assuming its a 280 or 290)
> u only need an adapter if the gfx card hasn't got dualdvi ports
> 
> no It doesn't affect the monitor and the different timings lowers the pixel clock to allow a few more hz I think just a standard cru overclock it supported upto 95hz
> 
> just change CRU settings to the pic I posted


I'm buying the new fury x, so that's why I need an adapter. I really appreciate the help.


----------



## cennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> With 120hz i will always recommend using the 459mhz timings as you will have a much stronger signal and you will be closer to the display controllers 450mhz limit!....However your ram will not downclock using my 459mhz tightened timings.... 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen...Even NVIDIA cards won't clock down if the vertical blanking/total is that low!... So i would use 120hz to game then set a lower refresh rate on the desktop or just run 110hz 24/7 as i do and i believe you will end up doing so in time anyhow as there is not much if any difference between 110hz and 120hz anyhow....In fact i see no difference at all.
> 
> Also the reason color sustainer is showing you red text with other ICC profiles is due to the fact that they were created using software other than dispcalgui and yaz has not as yet fully added surport for ICC profiles made by different calibration software as yet....However he has posted a workaround in the OP to allow color sustainer to use all non surported ICC profiles!


I am trying the 110hz downclockable timings for my GTX 750.

It seems that the default "manual" setting in NVCP has the same timings as your downloadable timings.

However, it does not downclock memory on idle, while the 96hz one does (so there's nothing running in the background).

I tried increasing the vertical total from 1481 to 1500,1550,1600 and it still does not downclock.

Any ideas?


----------



## WinterWarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Certainly wont be the monitor if all you did was switch out the cards. Is the monitor doing the lines in your motherboard's bios? If so it is likely a problem with the 290. Do you still have the 970? Try switching the monitor to the othwr dvi port on the 290. If negative, try puttibg the 970 back in to test the monitor. AMD overclocking requires patching the driver and using cru, but it should work at 60hz without any of that obviously.


Hey, I tried both the GPUs and it did the same thing. I think the PCB is gone and I have asked the seller to get me a new one, I'll post an update if it works after replacing it.

Strangely enough it worked at 1080p 50 Hz but it looked horrible.


----------



## russik

Is Asus GW2765HT better or worser than these korea monitors? They are same price because tax are expenisve in here from korea stuff and I cant never send them back in korea for warranty.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *russik*
> 
> Is Asus GW2765HT better or worser than these korea monitors? They are same price because tax are expenisve in here from korea stuff and I cant never send them back in korea for warranty.


I dont think thats an Asus, but a Benq GW2765HT. Its 60hz, not overclockable but if thats not important to you I would choose it over the current Qnix models being sold. Plus you can be assured of far better quality, features, warranty with a Benq.


----------



## russik

Sorry my mistake yes its Benq. Seems like that Benq have much better stand too than these korea monitors have.


----------



## Bratschki

Hey guys,

so I overclocked my Qnix QX2710 to 96Hz which works fine and noticable different under Windows 7. Even 108Hz works fine under windows 7
I use a gtx 780ti @ default settings for testing purpose.

As soon as I start a game in fullscreen the Monitor turns black real fast and probably resets to 60Hz. For example Dota 2.

When I start Dota 2 at default Nvidia Control Panel Settings (60Hz) the monitor doesnt turn black and Vsync shows me correct 60Hz ingame. I can tab out and in without the Monitor turning black.
As soon as I change the refreshrate to anything different but 60 Hz the game kind of resets the monitorsettings back to 60Hz when I start it in fullscreen. Its kind of the same behaviour when your ingame resolution is not your desktop resolution. You will get a blackscreen, when starting the game or tabbing in and out were the monitor changes the resolution, but in my case its changing the refreshrate back to 60Hz ingame and 96Hz desktop.
Vsync ingame does not work then and the client renders the maximum 120Fps he is allowed to render. The client should render 96Hz or 108Hz as the monitor settings are i guess. You can also feel the difference between 60Hz and 108Hz.

However if I start Dota2 in Borderless window mode with vsync it renders the correct 96Hz and 108Hz. ( you can again feel the difference, its much more fluently) Also the monitor doesnt turn black when I start a game in window mode.
Its the same issue with Left for dead, Dead space etc. Default settings doesnt trigger a blackscreen when opening a game. But anything different leads to a blackscreen before the game starts which I think resets the Monitor to 60Hz for that fullscreen application.

What can I do that the game accept the Monitor as a 96 hz/108Hz device in fullscreenmode?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bratschki*
> 
> What can I do that the game accept the Monitor as a 96 hz/108Hz device in fullscreenmode?


If the game is capped at 1080p and you aren't able to choose 1440p from in game settings it's switching to [email protected], so you can make a 1080p custom res:


If that doesn't work, or you want to use 1440p you
Should be able to force it with GeDoSaTo:
http://blog.metaclassofnil.com/?page_id=582

Can add AA, downsample from 4k, postprocessing... GeDoSaTo is amazing. And DOTA2 has a settings profile already.


----------



## KCK402

Just got a Qnix QX2710LED single and every time I try to over clock it to 95hz there is a very odd green bar going down the right side of the monitor. Has anyone ran into this issue and should I just keep it at 60hz or if there is a way to get it to 95hz with out that green bar should I overclock to 95hz? Right now it is at 60hz and looks fine.


----------



## Charlie B

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KCK402*
> 
> Just got a Qnix QX2710LED single and every time I try to over clock it to 95hz there is a very odd green bar going down the right side of the monitor. Has anyone ran into this issue and should I just keep it at 60hz or if there is a way to get it to 95hz with out that green bar should I overclock to 95hz? Right now it is at 60hz and looks fine.


I get Green on mine at 110 and above. 96 works fine for me but every monitor is different. I would just go down one at a time until you don't notice any effects on the screen.


----------



## Bratschki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If the game is capped at 1080p and you aren't able to choose 1440p from in game settings it's switching to [email protected], so you can make a 1080p custom res:
> 
> 
> If that doesn't work, or you want to use 1440p you
> Should be able to force it with GeDoSaTo:
> http://blog.metaclassofnil.com/?page_id=582
> 
> Can add AA, downsample from 4k, postprocessing... GeDoSaTo is amazing. And DOTA2 has a settings profile already.


Hey thank you for the reply, the game is capable of 1440p, and its not the resolution getting set back.
I just chose that resolution to explain the thing the monitor does. Which is basically like the "monitor changing the resolution blackscreen" but in my case its changing the refreshrate. And that happens in every fullscreen game I start. The game just force the monitor back to 60Hz. From what I read in this forum the game should accept the 96Hz the nvcp is forced to and Vsync correctly to 96Hz. Also you can feel that its 60Hz and not 96Hz in case you think its just a vsync issue. I also turned vsync off to test that.
When I start in borderless window mode vsync choose the correct 96Hz to render.


----------



## nemesis94

Seeing that the current new Qnix is having problem with PWM, flickering and whatnot, what would be the best alternative for a *Glossy* Korean monitors at the moment at the same price range? I've heard about the Crossover 2795QHD but unfortunately it only comes with Matte and I would love to get a glossy version. I don't really mind not having the ability to overclock the monitors so long as the display have the same quality/clarity as the top Korean monitors/Old Qnix. That being said, an ability to overclock to at least 96hz without much problem would be a bonus.


----------



## goodkeys

Hey nemesis, if I'm not mistaken there are no overclockable glossy monitors around currently apart from the Qnix . Non-overclockable alternatives are the Zalcom ZM27Q1 and the Crossover 27qw Sakwa. The Sakwa uses Plasma deposition coating, it's up to you to decide whether that's an advantage (less reflective, slightly better light colors, slightly better clarity) or a disadvantage (greyish blacks).
Too bad that the newer production batches of the Qnix all use PWM dimming. Currently I'm trying to find out whether you can make the Zalcom and/or the Sakwa overclockable by replacing it's pcb board.


----------



## nemesis94

Man, that's a bummer. I'm quite interested on the Sakwa, though. Aside from the one you mentioned and the fact that it can't be overclocked, is there any other problem about the Sakwa that I should know about before going for it?


----------



## goodkeys

The usual problems that can occur with any IPS panel (dead pixels, backlight bleed, ips glow), sometimes there's a gap between the metal trim below the screen and the screen. You have to open casing to remove the stand if you want to vesa mount it. These are the drawbacks I know of.

Here's the only 'review' I found about it:


----------



## piee

I have new 07 panel and no pwm at max brightness than i just use nvcp to lower brite to 27 it works and no black crush


----------



## amit_talkin

I have just ordered TRUE10 DP version. It says HD5970 is not compatible, but it is only with DVI port, right? with DP port it still works fine?
Is it so bad for gaming? I was so excited but some posts on this thread makes me nervous.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amit_talkin*
> 
> I have just ordered TRUE10 DP version. It says HD5970 is not compatible, but it is only with DVI port, right? with DP port it still works fine?
> Is it so bad for gaming? I was so excited but some posts on this thread makes me nervous.


From the FAQ on p1:
Quote:


> Q: Does the TRUE10 model (10-bit panel) overclock? How is the input-lag?
> A: No it does not overclock (regardless of what they try and tell you, for the time being). Added on 10-27-14: Some have reported that the newer True10 monitors can OC to roughly 85 Hz. YMMV
> Input lag is worse than on the 8-bit panel version. DO NOT get this if you are trying to game. These are graphic design specific panels, and you probably need a 10-bit specific graphics card to even make use of the 10-bit color depth.


And a review: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm

Its multi-input. Will work with DVDI, DP, HDMI.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Does anyone have a dead qnix they want to part out? I have one that the board/connectors are broken on. As soon as I switch the box from my other monitor it works fine. Please let me know as id love to bring my qnix back to life.


----------



## Tengis

I am in need of an LG 6091l-1679a panel to replace the one in my monitor. If anyone has one then let me know. The backlight does not need to be working as long as the panel functions and isnt cracked.


----------



## Freiya

I ordered 2 true10 multis before I really saw this thread and thankfully I found out about the bad input lag before the seller shipped em out. I really wanted an hdmi port but after reading all the problems with those true 10's it wasn't worth it. Settled on the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27 Samsung PLS. One for my gf and one for me. Should be here tomorrow! fastest shipping I've ever seen in my life.

Hope we get lucky and have zero problems.


----------



## Freiya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nemesis94*
> 
> Seeing that the current new Qnix is having problem with PWM, flickering and whatnot, what would be the best alternative for a *Glossy* Korean monitors at the moment at the same price range? I've heard about the Crossover 2795QHD but unfortunately it only comes with Matte and I would love to get a glossy version. I don't really mind not having the ability to overclock the monitors so long as the display have the same quality/clarity as the top Korean monitors/Old Qnix. That being said, an ability to overclock to at least 96hz without much problem would be a bonus.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111482849722?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f4e549ba

whats wrong with that one?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freiya*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111482849722?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f4e549ba
> 
> whats wrong with that one?


It seems all or many of the new Qnix 2710s are using Pulse Width Modulation PWM for controling the brightness. PWM causes obvious flickering.


----------



## nimski

Well, I sold my good ole QX2710 for a new Wasabi-Mango UHD420. I will miss this monitor!


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freiya*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111482849722?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f4e549ba
> 
> whats wrong with that one?


Nothing wrong with it if you bought it a year ago. But its a glossy and this appears to be the situation with glossies now:






Current glossies seem to be shipped with a different panel (LTM270DL07 vs LTM270DL02). Its not the same quality panel of before. Mentioned about a 100 times, but it gets buried in the avalanche of posts that make up this 23,000 post thread. OP needs to update first page to reflect this.


----------



## Freiya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Nothing wrong with it if you bought it a year ago. But its a glossy and this appears to be the situation with glossies now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Current glossies seem to be shipped with a different panel (LTM270DL07 vs LTM270DL02). Its not the same quality panel of before. Mentioned about a 100 times, but it gets buried in the avalanche of posts that make up this 23,000 post thread. OP needs to update first page to reflect this.


Ouch.

I ordered this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/131121204491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e876ecd0b

I guess it's not much better than the glossy though. Hopefully it's not as bad as you guys are making it seem. ;(


----------



## Robosama

I've had my QX2710 Multi input version since the start of May last year, so just out the 1 year Warranty the ebay sellers usually go with.

Anyway, the bottom right of the screen is flickering, and after a few hours sometimes it'll go off entirely. Sometimes though the in game music is still playing, can anyone advise if this is a separate issue, or is my monitor on the way out?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Umm, stupid question, was about to order a 980Ti, but I have a Qnix without a scaler, and the 980Ti doesn't seem to have the right kind of DVI port?

Am I screwed?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Umm, stupid question, was about to order a 980Ti, but I have a Qnix without a scaler, and the 980Ti doesn't seem to have the right kind of DVI port?
> 
> Am I screwed?


980 Ti should have dual-link DVI, at least all the ones I've seen do. Which one are you looking at?


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Umm, stupid question, was about to order a 980Ti, but I have a Qnix without a scaler, and the 980Ti doesn't seem to have the right kind of DVI port?
> 
> Am I screwed?


both dual link DVI-I and dual link DVI-D ports work.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

^^^The MSI Gaming one? But all of them seem to have the same IO?

And yeah I recently learned they should work the same, but will it still work if I am overclocking (115Hz)?

Thanks guys.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> ^^^The MSI Gaming one? But all of them seem to have the same IO?
> 
> And yeah I recently learned they should work the same, but will it still work if I am overclocking (115Hz)?
> 
> Thanks guys.


Yes, as long as its dual link (it is) dvi-i and dvi-d overclock the same.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yes, as long as its dual link (it is) dvi-i and dvi-d overclock the same.


Thanks









Anyone know how to get Colour Sustainer to open on startup? My settings look like this.

But it just doesn't open on startup. To get around it I'm having to use task scheduler to open it, but it doesn't work right as it means I've got to press 'Start' and minimize it every time.


----------



## Freiya

got both QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27 and I am pretty sure I have zero dead/stuck pixels and no blb that I can see. Seems to have overclocked to 96hz without any problems too. Not sure if it can go higher or not as I don't have any need to try. My gf's monitor has 1 stuck pixel that she is currently trying to fix but besides that her monitor seems great too. Really happy so far! I never knew 1440p would be so amazing. Can't believe I've been running 290x cf for 1080p this whole time =(


----------



## amit_talkin

Anybody knows why HD5970 shouldn't be working with DVI-D only versions of monitors? It is marked as incompatible in their ebay listings. So I bought TRUE10 version instead. But now I read that TRUE10 version has around 22ms of input lag. My package has been shipped but I am thinking to return it from PO and get DVI-D only version. But not sure it will work on my HD5970.


----------



## bmgjet

Overclocking works on 980ti.


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Overclocking works on 980ti.


Awesome.


----------



## DiceAir

So do you guys think it's wise upgrading to 980ti from r9 280x crossfire. I was thinking to wait for dx12 and win 10 to come but i can get a sweat deal on the Galax 980ti HOF at a local pc shop


----------



## Dotachin

Do it


----------



## krython

I am looking to get the korean made QNIX QX2710 LED DPmulti True10 .

I know that it has various port like HDMI 1.4a, DisplayPort, DVI, Dsub . how useful are these ports? Do they work well when connected to consoles etc?

How about tv boxes like apple tv, amazon fire tv and xiaomi tv box? Can these be connected and used with this monitor?

Sorry if these are noob questions, thanks.


----------



## Dry Bonez

ok guys, the time has come! i can upgrade FINALLY. coming from 3x triple monitos of Qnix 1440p with 2x GTX 580 SLI, omg do i get terrible FPS on newer games..... ok,So i know the 980ti pretty much crushes at 1440p for the most part,how would 2x 980ti windforces do for 3x qnix monitors? I know one thing for sure,it will beat the living crap out of my GTX 580s


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dotachin*
> 
> Do it


any reason? Do you think it's really that much faster to justify it's price?


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> any reason? Do you think it's really that much faster to justify it's price?


No subjective questions.
DOET

edit: I'll as well as soon as MSI launches their hybrid


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dotachin*
> 
> No subjective questions.
> DOET
> 
> edit: I'll as well as soon as MSI launches their hybrid


The reason for asking is the fact that I'm just scared I will be getting like a small upgrade from my r9 280x's and then it's not worth spending now. I'm running the qnix @ 96hz but I don't mind turning off AA or run aa on lowest settings. other thing I would love to put on 2nd highest at least.


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> The reason for asking is the fact that I'm just scared I will be getting like a small upgrade from my r9 280x's and then it's not worth spending now. I'm running the qnix @ 96hz but I don't mind turning off AA or run aa on lowest settings. other thing I would love to put on 2nd highest at least.


http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Gigabyte/GTX_980_Ti_G1_Gaming/

Only you can decide if it's worth it. I think it is though.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So do you guys think it's wise upgrading to 980ti from r9 280x crossfire. I was thinking to wait for dx12 and win 10 to come but i can get a sweat deal on the Galax 980ti HOF at a local pc shop


Here is compared overclocked 7970 cf vs 980ti overclocked. 7970 basically the same as 280x.
Things that have good crossfire scaling its about 5-10% better.
Things that have bad crossfire scaling or gameworks gimped about 200% better
My Witcher FPS has tripled. My BF4 and BFHL FPS only gone up 10-20FPS.

980ti OC
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/9980863

7970 CF
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8289200

3D Mark xtreme
7970
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4487544

980ti
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5216478


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Here is compared overclocked 7970 cf vs 980ti overclocked. 7970 basically the same as 280x.
> Things that have good crossfire scaling its about 5-10% better.
> Things that have bad crossfire scaling or gameworks gimped about 200% better
> My Witcher FPS has tripled. My BF4 and BFHL FPS only gone up 10-20FPS.
> 
> 980ti OC
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/9980863
> 
> 7970 CF
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8289200
> 
> 3D Mark xtreme
> 7970
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4487544
> 
> 980ti
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/5216478


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dotachin*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Gigabyte/GTX_980_Ti_G1_Gaming/
> 
> Only you can decide if it's worth it. I think it is though.


Guys thanks for the info. I appreciate it. The 3dmark result doesn't really give me real game performance but it still helps out. For the price now it's not that much faster and with dx12 and win10 coming out soon I will wait. On Guru3d forums some people say that the fps is better on win10 even if it's dx11 title. The main reason for me to upgrade was to get away from crossfire, lower heat, lower noise and lower power usage.

Again thanks for the info. I just wish reviewers won't just run msaa at max on 2560x1440 as for example bf4 you don't need 4xmsaa, 2xmsaa is just fine and might greatly improve performance.


----------



## Tim Drake

Could someone recommend a 1440p Korean usually capable of 120Hz for the UK at a decent price?


----------



## XJ220

I just pulled the trigger on a Qnix QX2710. Got the perfect pixel for around 30 more euro than the regular one. Even if many say it's a scam, I like to have the coverage for even one single dead pixel which AccessoriesWhole has. I'd rather send it back than eat a dead or stuck pixel in the center of the screen. It's matte, and of course single input.

I was about to get a Crossover 2795, but I don't trust dreamseller (who are the only ones that sell it at a decent price to my country), seeing how they have the description for dead and stuck pixels wrong in their warranty coverage statement, and a few stories I've read around here. Hopefully this one will be good enough.

I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XJ220*
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on a Qnix QX2710. Got the perfect pixel for around 30 more euro than the regular one. Even if many say it's a scam, I like to have the coverage for even one single dead pixel which AccessoriesWhole has. I'd rather send it back than eat a dead or stuck pixel in the center of the screen. It's matte, and of course single input.
> 
> I was about to get a Crossover 2795, but I don't trust dreamseller (who are the only ones that sell it at a decent price to my country), seeing how they have the description for dead and stuck pixels wrong in their warranty coverage statement, and a few stories I've read around here. Hopefully this one will be good enough.
> 
> I'll keep you guys posted.


I'm an interested buyer so can you get back to me with your overclock results?

Also if you experience any ghosting.


----------



## Proxish

Does anyone know of timings for NVidia Tightened AND downclockable 110hz?


----------



## Deluxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Proxish*
> 
> Does anyone know of timings for NVidia Tightened AND downclockable 110hz?


I am trying to figure this out aswell, but not having much luck.
Running a 980Ti, it does not matter one bit what timings or Hz I run, as soon as I run a custom setting of even 65 Hz, it won't clock lower than 810 MHz and heats up to 65c. (with the default fan profile)
With my 670 it worked all fine with tight timings at 120 Hz, with 780 I needed 100 Hz with tight timings, and now I can't even get it to downclock at whatever I try.


----------



## bmgjet

Hmmm just the automatically set timing when making custom res of 100hz seem to work fine on windows 10 and latest driver with overclock as well.


----------



## XJ220

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> I'm an interested buyer so can you get back to me with your overclock results?
> 
> Also if you experience any ghosting.


Sorry, but I think it's going back. The seller decided to send it to me through UPS, who ALWAYS passes customs in my country (which isn't so bad, it's the fair thing I guess...even if they gouge) and ALWAYS takes a huge comission (which is absolutely terrible). I'm not going to pay 100+ more euros total just because some bright mind decided to use UPS for my package. The one time in all my years in Ebay I slip up and don't ask explicitly which transport company they use, and they do this.

It's going back, I'm getting my money back and I'm buying from someone else, probably a different monitor.


----------



## Proxish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> I am trying to figure this out aswell, but not having much luck.
> Running a 980Ti, it does not matter one bit what timings or Hz I run, as soon as I run a custom setting of even 65 Hz, it won't clock lower than 810 MHz and heats up to 65c. (with the default fan profile)
> With my 670 it worked all fine with tight timings at 120 Hz, with 780 I needed 100 Hz with tight timings, and now I can't even get it to downclock at whatever I try.


I'm using a GTX 970. Only had two options in the end after testing, either 110Hz with tightened timings but no downclocking, or 100hz with a downclock. I chose the latter.
Not sure why you can't get anything running with your monitor. Only insight I can offer, is that I had a R9 290 installed last week, before switching back to NVidia. That card wouldn't downclock with or without downclockable and tightened timings. Sounds like the 980ti may have the same issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Hmmm just the automatically set timing when making custom res of 100hz seem to work fine on windows 10 and latest driver with overclock as well.


Thanks for letting me know, good to know it isn't just me that can't get 110hz tightened and downclockable.


----------



## bmgjet

I get to 115hz and is still downclockable with tighter timings. Just I cant remember them off the top of my head and windows 10 install is fresh and have had more important things to do (play with 980ti) then go back though lots of pages to find posts about what values to use.

My post was to Deluxe, should be able to just slapped 100hz in custom res and use default timings and have it work fine.


----------



## Rynji

I'm having problems running 120Hz with my new 980 Ti.
I used to be running at 120Hz with my 780 Ti no problem, no artefacts nothing.
Now, using the same pixel clock etcetera it gives weird buzzing lines, not that bad (differs per image on the screen) but it is noticeable.

is it possible the 980 Ti i have just does not want to do 120Hz? Or could i play with these settings a bit more to get 120Hz.
Would not be much of a problem to go back to 110Hz, but it's a shame because i used to be running 120Hz no problem.


----------



## jdstock76

So confused on the instructions in the OP. Are Nvidia single card users supposed to use CRU or not, because the file in the QNIXmonitordriver.zip doesn't say anything about it?


----------



## KottyKing

I'm thinking about buying 3 of these. How would I run 3 off 1 card if you can't use adapters? I will be using a 980 ti. Also am I correct in that I should buy the one with only dvi connection?


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> So confused on the instructions in the OP. Are Nvidia single card users supposed to use CRU or not, because the file in the QNIXmonitordriver.zip doesn't say anything about it?


Just use the nvidia control panel since its able to make custom res where at time of OP it couldnt.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KottyKing*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying 3 of these. How would I run 3 off 1 card if you can't use adapters? I will be using a 980 ti. Also am I correct in that I should buy the one with only dvi connection?


DVI only connection are the ones that can overclock. DP, HDMI ones cant be overclocked.
980ti only has 1 dvi port so youll only be able to overclock 1 screen. Rest will need to use adapters. The best active adapter you can buy only supports up to 75hz 1440p so youll be able to push it that far at most.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Just use the nvidia control panel since its able to make custom res where at time of OP it couldnt.


And that's it? Seems overly simple. Should I mess with timings or anything or just adjust to desired Refresh?

How will I know if the OC is set? How will I know if it's too much and can't handle it? I set it to 96hz and seems fine. Just curious if there's something in missing.


----------



## w35t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rynji*
> 
> I'm having problems running 120Hz with my new 980 Ti.
> I used to be running at 120Hz with my 780 Ti no problem, no artefacts nothing.
> Now, using the same pixel clock etcetera it gives weird buzzing lines, not that bad (differs per image on the screen) but it is noticeable.
> 
> is it possible the 980 Ti i have just does not want to do 120Hz? Or could i play with these settings a bit more to get 120Hz.
> Would not be much of a problem to go back to 110Hz, but it's a shame because i used to be running 120Hz no problem.


SAME HERE!

Used to run 120Hz on my 780 and 970 not problem. Now with the 980ti I get buzzing lines across the screen. I had to turn it down to 100Hz to get them to go away, 110Hz still showed lines, less but still. This is a big deal as my primary game is CS:GO.


----------



## Dry Bonez

hey guys,i need a quick answer,i should be receiving my GTX 980ti shortly, i have 2x GTX 580 and patched this qnix monitor using the patch,do i need to unpatch it and remove the signature for the monitor to install the 980ti?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rynji*
> 
> I'm having problems running 120Hz with my new 980 Ti.
> I used to be running at 120Hz with my 780 Ti no problem, no artefacts nothing.
> Now, using the same pixel clock etcetera it gives weird buzzing lines, not that bad (differs per image on the screen) but it is noticeable.
> 
> is it possible the 980 Ti i have just does not want to do 120Hz? Or could i play with these settings a bit more to get 120Hz.
> Would not be much of a problem to go back to 110Hz, but it's a shame because i used to be running 120Hz no problem.


Gotta say, with the help of your pic, got my QX2710 from 96hz to 110hz.







Thanks!


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Gotta say, with the help of your pic, got my QX2710 from 96hz to 110hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


i dont get it,how did this help you? i have 3x of these monitors and only one goes to 110hz, how can this help you? what did you do wrong before? thanks


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i dont get it,how did this help you? i have 3x of these monitors and only one goes to 110hz, how can this help you? what did you do wrong before? thanks


Pixel clock and vertical pixels.







Guess I never really tried to go past 96hz before today.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> And that's it? Seems overly simple. Should I mess with timings or anything or just adjust to desired Refresh?
> 
> How will I know if the OC is set? How will I know if it's too much and can't handle it? I set it to 96hz and seems fine. Just curious if there's something in missing.


Yep it is overly simple for NVCP, discovered this quite sometime ago ... more info *HERE* ... I played around with several timings back in the day to help others but I never had to use them with my setup even for desktop GPU downclocking









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> hey guys,i need a quick answer,i should be receiving my GTX 980ti shortly, i have 2x GTX 580 and patched this qnix monitor using the patch,do i need to unpatch it and remove the signature for the monitor to install the 980ti?


I would almost start from scratch to avoid possible driver conflicts. Clean install of all GPU/Monitor related drivers ... Before you install the godly 980Ti ... I would put the monitor back to 60Hz, then cleanly uninstall all patches / all NVCP OC profiles / and all GPU overclocks / GPU drivers / and possibly even your GPU OC programs ... reboot and build the system from scratch after installing the 980Ti ... with at least one reboot between the GPU install and the process of initial monitor setup (driver) and your custom NVCP overclock profiles ... hope that helps and we can relax about the 980Ti QNIX OC downgrade









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w35t*
> 
> SAME HERE!
> 
> Used to run 120Hz on my 780 and 970 not problem. Now with the 980ti I get buzzing lines across the screen. I had to turn it down to 100Hz to get them to go away, 110Hz still showed lines, less but still. This is a big deal as my primary game is CS:GO.


I have been seeing this 10Hz(+) reduction in a stable overclock when upgrading GPU's since the Nvidia 9xx series came out and now these recent 980Ti problems has me even more concerned ... as I am shopping for a 980Ti as we speek. May have to wait until I can afford an XB270HU at the same time









*Maybe time for a ToastyX analysis?* ... As I think it is related to the newer Nvidia performance drivers addressing G-Sync / GTA5 / Witcher 3 ... etc etc ... Some of you could try rolling back to earlier stable overclocked drivers and see if that has a positive effect? I hope we are not getting to the point where we need separate setups for older games like CS:GO / Battlefield etc as my now aging setup (680's/120Hz+) works great with everything but the newest titles


----------



## XJ220

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XJ220*
> 
> Sorry, but I think it's going back. The seller decided to send it to me through UPS, who ALWAYS passes customs in my country (which isn't so bad, it's the fair thing I guess...even if they gouge) and ALWAYS takes a huge comission (which is absolutely terrible). I'm not going to pay 100+ more euros total just because some bright mind decided to use UPS for my package. The one time in all my years in Ebay I slip up and don't ask explicitly which transport company they use, and they do this.
> 
> It's going back, I'm getting my money back and I'm buying from someone else, probably a different monitor.


I guess I straight-up lied. Accessorieswhole kindly told me that he put a much lower value on the package (200 dollars), so I wasn't wallet-murdered by UPS and decided to keep it

The monitor is perfect, no dead pixels, very little BLB. I've experimented a bit with overclocking (on a 280x), no success at raising the stock clocks at all so far. From what I've read, it happened to a few people due to the DVI cable that comes with the monitor. I'll report back when I switch to something better with numbers and pictures and stuff









Coming from a 20 inch TN 60hz monitor, this looks absolutely unreal. For what is worth, it also looks a million times better than a friend's Dell u2711. The antiglare coating in this one is much less intrusive. Now if it doesn't die within a week, I expect it to last a while!


----------



## Tabinhu

Hey guys I wanted to build my first ever desktop and along with it i wanted a nice 120hz monitor but a 120hz in portugal is like 280€ @ 1080p
Is there any Korean monitor that can be overclocked to 120hz? I'd prefer an IPS


----------



## jdstock76

Does the testing of OC and BLB from OP still apply?


----------



## piee

qnix qx2710 one dvi-d input, matte (darkens when oc,vibrant colors,glossy no darken with oc but not as saturated colors,mine oc 118hz} has pwm flcker but not at max briteness then lower in NVCP.
yamakasi catleap 2b
crossover 2710 qhd,no pwm flcker
tempest overlord 2710


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yep it is overly simple for NVCP, discovered this quite sometime ago ... more info *HERE* ... I played around with several timings back in the day to help others but I never had to use them with my setup even for desktop GPU downclocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would almost start from scratch to avoid possible driver conflicts. Clean install of all GPU/Monitor related drivers ... Before you install the godly 980Ti ... I would put the monitor back to 60Hz, then cleanly uninstall all patches / all NVCP OC profiles / and all GPU overclocks / GPU drivers / and possibly even your GPU OC programs ... reboot and build the system from scratch after installing the 980Ti ... with at least one reboot between the GPU install and the process of initial monitor setup (driver) and your custom NVCP overclock profiles ... hope that helps and we can relax about the 980Ti QNIX OC downgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been seeing this 10Hz(+) reduction in a stable overclock when upgrading GPU's since the Nvidia 9xx series came out and now these recent 980Ti problems has me even more concerned ... as I am shopping for a 980Ti as we speek. May have to wait until I can afford an XB270HU at the same time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Maybe time for a ToastyX analysis?* ... As I think it is related to the newer Nvidia performance drivers addressing G-Sync / GTA5 / Witcher 3 ... etc etc ... Some of you could try rolling back to earlier stable overclocked drivers and see if that has a positive effect? I hope we are not getting to the point where we need separate setups for older games like CS:GO / Battlefield etc as my now aging setup (680's/120Hz+) works great with everything but the newest titles


How do i uninstall the patches though? lol, and what should i use to uninstall my gpu drivers and monitor drivers?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Does the testing of OC and BLB from OP still apply?


Yes and Yes ... but the BLB test is quite in-depth/technical and a bit of overkill ... I prefer our OC page (sig) ... AND the OP doesn't mention the frame straightening technique explained in detail by Lawson and used by me and many others (Note: Guide is for L02 panels) ...

See "BLB FIX" at the bottom of the 1st post over at our OC guide *HERE* ... original/more info *HERE*









*Why NO ONE has attempted or even explored this Fix with the Acer XB270HU is beyond me*









*EDIT Note:* You will have to modify this Fix for the newer L07 panels as they no longer use the same frame









Fairly annoying BLB from factory










Results after "Frame Straightening" ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> How do i uninstall the patches though? lol, and what should i use to uninstall my gpu drivers and monitor drivers?


Use ToastyX's uninstaller for his patch ... more info *HERE* ...

If I haven't used an AMD card in the system you usually can get away with the Nvidia uninstaller ... BUT if you want to be absolutely sure use G3D's Driver Sweeper *HERE* ...

Uninstall the monitor driver through the Device Manager -->Monitors --> Properties --> Uninstall Driver








This step may not be necessary but ...your call

Sometimes "Revo Uninstaller" can be useful for stubborn programs, just learn how to use it properly


----------



## russik

How do you do that "Frame Straightening"? I only find car frame straighenting if I google that.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *russik*
> 
> How do you do that "Frame Straightening"? I only find car frame straighenting if I google that.


Hmmm Google may not be your friend in this case ... BUT reading my posts more carefully AND clicking on my "HERE" blue letter links will help


----------



## russik

Still there isn't diy stuff from your link. That guy only said that he straightener his monitor frame but no diy stuff and is it only work with these korea 16:9 1440p monitors?


----------



## p3dr0maz

New owner QNIX qx2710 @ 96Hz love it. Opened the case and removed the ****ty stand, got the mono price one. Now that i have it on this new one and its straight and not all tilted and whack it doesn't bleed out as much on the corners. So that was a bonus. Ty to the community for putting this thread together.


----------



## renji1337

If i get a 980 TI classified that has a DVI-I slot, will i still be able to OC my monitor?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renji1337*
> 
> If i get a 980 TI classified that has a DVI-I slot, will i still be able to OC my monitor?


Yes, DVI-I / DVI-D doesn't matter as long as it is dual link, which the 980 Ti is.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p3dr0maz*
> 
> New owner QNIX qx2710 @ 96Hz love it. Opened the case and removed the ****ty stand, got the mono price one. Now that i have it on this new one and its straight and not all tilted and whack it doesn't bleed out as much on the corners. So that was a bonus. Ty to the community for putting this thread together.


which stand exactly? im planning on changing mine too. please post a link. thanks


----------



## p3dr0maz

It's on the 1st post. This one: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

Here's what it looks like after: http://i.imgur.com/HaRYthm.png http://i.imgur.com/ysrZVoE.png

The best thing is the adjustable height/tilt.

Also, beware that for this mount to be used properly you have to remove the original stand completely. Not just the footer but also the main handle that is attached to the monitor. I was a little uneasy playing with the panel but after about an hour of fidgeting with it I was able to remove the two screws by only lifting it up and not disconnecting anything.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> which stand exactly? im planning on changing mine too. please post a link. thanks


----------



## p3dr0maz

ISSUE SOLVED

I'm having an issue and im not sure if its the PCB or the panel. Every now and then I get some bright red pixels on my screen. At first I thought it was related to the OC but even when i changed it back to 60Hz it was still there. Weird part is it just goes away on it's own. I tried to do a video capture but when I replayed the video the red pixels were not present. I will try to get some with my phone maybe later.

Has anyone ever heard of this?

I've gone ahead and requested the start of an RMA process with the seller. I am very happy with my specific panel (no dead pixels) and bezel/case (minimal bleed) so I have requested if there is a way to do the process only for the PCB. Just hoping its not related to the inverter board but i dont really know much about LED's so not sure what it is. I'll see what they say. I contacted them and let them know all was ok now.

Edit: So for anyone curious my suspect ended up being not the PCB or panel but the CABLE. I got the symptom and when i did I had the idea to "wiggle" the connection. To my surprise the symptom started going off and on. That's when i knew. Only guess is one of the connectors wasnt making right kind of contact? I made sure the connector was as tight as it'd let me go with the screws and everything so /shrug. When i switched back to the cable that the monitor came with the same symptom occurred in the initial connection seating but when i got the screws on tight it went away. Wiggling didnt cause any issues like the old one. I manged to get pics in case anyone is curious what it looked like.

Contact/seating issue w/ amazon basics cable?
With wallpaper on:http://i.imgur.com/gF9mMYX.png http://i.imgur.com/BXWTSa7.png http://i.imgur.com/tnbV6cK.png
When i switched it to black http://i.imgur.com/6vakQpz.png


----------



## jim2point0

Can anyone help me out here?

I'm trying to follow the instructions for using higher refresh rates for single Nvidia cards. I've installed the QNIX driver but now I'm not sure what to do.

For example, say I want 90hz. When I try to create a custom resolution in the nvidia control panel, I set the color depth to 32bit and the refresh rate to 90. It tests successfully, but when I switch to it, my color depth keeps changing to 16bit.

Am I doing something wrong here?

EDIT: Nevermind. I figured out what I was doing wrong.


----------



## superted125

Hi all,

I tried searching but was only getting results about backlight bleed, so I'm wondering if someone here can give me some help.

I've got 2 X-Star DP2710 monitors (both purchased at the same time) running on an AMD HD 6950 2GB card and from what I can gather and my little knowledge of these things, it would appear that the backlight has died on one of them. It shows as connected in Windows and the blue light is on, however I can't see anything. *But* if I shine a torch at the monitor, I can actually see the display as if it were working. I'm fairly sure it's not just a brightness issue or anything like that as I tried mashing the increase brightness button and it didn't do anything.

Does it indeed sound like a dead backlight? Is this something replaceable/repairable or is the monitor as good as dead?

Any help or pointers you guys could give me would be much appreciated!

Cheers

[edit] After some further reading, I'm wondering if it might be a dead capacitor that is the real cause? I opened the monitor up when it first happened but I don't think I really knew how to spot a bulging capacitor. I've since looked up some examples and comparisons so I'll open it up again tonight and see if I can spot anything out of the ordinary.


----------



## jdstock76

So silly question: Is it imperative to install Qnix driver? I never did, ramped up the monitor to 96hz. Seems to be running top notch. Think there are any issues?


----------



## Dry Bonez

HEY everyone,i get my 980ti tomorrow! im sooooo excited,coming all the way from a GTX 580! I have this monitor, would i need to patch it or any drivers for anything? please let me kno because i will be reinstalling windows fresh to go with my 980ti.


----------



## p3dr0maz

Not sure, do settings persist through a reboot? And you still pass the frame skip camera test w/o any missing frames? If so then it's probably fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> So silly question: Is it imperative to install Qnix driver? I never did, ramped up the monitor to 96hz. Seems to be running top notch. Think there are any issues?


----------



## HeinrichHimmler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> HEY everyone,i get my 980ti tomorrow! im sooooo excited,coming all the way from a GTX 580! I have this monitor, would i need to patch it or any drivers for anything? please let me kno because i will be reinstalling windows fresh to go with my 980ti.


Congrats.

Do not have to do anything.I installed the qnix driver from op.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p3dr0maz*
> 
> Not sure, do settings persist through a reboot? And you still pass the frame skip camera test w/o any missing frames? If so then it's probably fine.


Ya ... everything is running perfect. Perfect Pixel ... Hahahaha!!!! See what I did there?!


----------



## p3dr0maz

I see








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Ya ... everything is running perfect. Perfect Pixel ... Hahahaha!!!! See what I did there?!


----------



## Forceman

Couple of related questions here. Just installed a 980 Ti and I can get the custom resolution set in NVCP, but Color Sustainer doesn't recognize the 96Hz mode. I'm guessing it has to do with not having the Qnix driver installed? I tried to install it but got the "not digitally signed" error. Do I need to use test mode to install the driver so I can get color sustainer to work?


----------



## hexwolf

Sorry if this has been addressed but I searched the post for "EDID" to find if someone encountered the same problem I have. I have a QNIX2710 True10 that will not work under Linux, it just continues to color cycle. It works fine under Windows but in reading the Xorg.0.log file it looks like it's having problems reading the EDID. I have a detailed thread found here if anyone has any suggestions for what I could attempt. Otherwise I'm going to look into trying a different distribution of Linux in hopes it won't encounter the same problem.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## p3dr0maz

There should be an option to ignore that and install the driver anyways.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Couple of related questions here. Just installed a 980 Ti and I can get the custom resolution set in NVCP, but Color Sustainer doesn't recognize the 96Hz mode. I'm guessing it has to do with not having the Qnix driver installed? I tried to install it but got the "not digitally signed" error. Do I need to use test mode to install the driver so I can get color sustainer to work?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Couple of related questions here. Just installed a 980 Ti and I can get the custom resolution set in NVCP, but Color Sustainer doesn't recognize the 96Hz mode. I'm guessing it has to do with not having the Qnix driver installed? I tried to install it but got the "not digitally signed" error. Do I need to use test mode to install the driver so I can get color sustainer to work?


You actually don't need the driver at all, or at least I'm not using a driver on my catleap and I do use color sustainer. If you want to test the driver you may have to turn safe boot off if you are using w8.1. Then you can go to the windows update and recovery settings from the w8.1 charm bar and select advanced startup from the recovery options. Once you restart you'll get an option to bypass digital signature enforcement.

I've had colorsustainer flip out on me before and had to mess with it a while to get it working right.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hexwolf*
> 
> Sorry if this has been addressed but I searched the post for "EDID" to find if someone encountered the same problem I have. I have a QNIX2710 True10 that will not work under Linux, it just continues to color cycle. It works fine under Windows but in reading the Xorg.0.log file it looks like it's having problems reading the EDID. I have a detailed thread found here if anyone has any suggestions for what I could attempt. Otherwise I'm going to look into trying a different distribution of Linux in hopes it won't encounter the same problem.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Do not mistake the QX2710 for the QX2710 True 10, they are entirely different panels with different EDIDs (logically presume). Sorry, havent followed your whole thread after my initial post there suggesting it may be a Linux/EDID recognition problem. The link I posted there for a possible fix also had a downloadable EDID for the QX2710, but that is not the same EDID for your specific panel. Did you extract the EDID _for your panel_ under Windows and use that in the Xorg file? If so and no luck, you may have better luck asking in a Linux forum. Fwiw, some links, but I am sure you have done your own extensive research:

https://delightlylinux.wordpress.com/2013/08/23/adventures-in-resolving-missing-edid-monitor-data/
http://askubuntu.com/questions/218871/xorg-does-not-see-my-monitor-edid


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p3dr0maz*
> 
> There should be an option to ignore that and install the driver anyways.


It tries to install, but still gives me the error at the end.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> You actually don't need the driver at all, or at least I'm not using a driver on my catleap and I do use color sustainer. If you want to test the driver you may have to turn safe boot off if you are using w8.1. Then you can go to the windows update and recovery settings from the w8.1 charm bar and select advanced startup from the recovery options. Once you restart you'll get an option to bypass digital signature enforcement.
> 
> I've had colorsustainer flip out on me before and had to mess with it a while to get it working right.


I changed color sustainer from mode-specific to global in the settings and now it is working. So I'll just go with that.


----------



## HeinrichHimmler

Coming from a TN panel 144Hz.

Qnix QX2710.Picture quality is very nice.This sample overclocks to 115.Currently at 96.No doubt this has more lag then a 144/tn panel in gaming.


----------



## russik

Is there any beautiful and with good build quality korea 1440p monitor that clocks well and isn't glossy and is semi glossy or matte?


----------



## HeinrichHimmler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *russik*
> 
> Is there any beautiful and with good build quality korea 1440p monitor that clocks well and isn't glossy and is semi glossy or matte?


Quality and korea do not go together.









You get a great panel with a crap case and no extras.


----------



## Pleiades

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeinrichHimmler*
> 
> Quality and korea do not go together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You get a great panel with a crap case and no extras.


Enough with your propaganda Herr Himmler! S. Korea has very good quality control for the most part (though Samsung's appears a bit inconsistent IMO lately)









It's the Chinese manufacturers of these budget models that are the true culprits!


----------



## krython

QNIX 2710 and Qnix 2720, is there any difference between the 2? which is better?


----------



## p3dr0maz

2720 is only 1080p but at least it's 144Mhz and supposedly has 1ms response time. Better is subjective. Which one has the features you are most interested in? Think the main reason most of us picked the 2710 is because it's 1440p and you get a nice bonus of it being OC. No where near 144Hz but still for a 1440p monitor at the price hard to beat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krython*
> 
> QNIX 2710 and Qnix 2720, is there any difference between the 2? which is better?


----------



## krython

Thanks for the reply.

Do you know what is the difference between QX2710 LED Evolution ll Multi True10 [Matte] and QX2710 LED Evolution ll DP Multi True10 [Matte] ? Dont both have multi inputs ?


----------



## p3dr0maz

DP one has a display port and if it says multi input it's multi input (DVI-D hdmi) . If not you just get DVI-D.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krython*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Do you know what is the difference between QX2710 LED Evolution ll Multi True10 [Matte] and QX2710 LED Evolution ll DP Multi True10 [Matte] ? Dont both have multi inputs ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krython*
> 
> QNIX 2710 and Qnix 2720, is there any difference between the 2? which is better?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krython*
> 
> QNIX 2710 and Qnix 2720, is there any difference between the 2? which is better?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *p3dr0maz*
> 
> 2720 is only 1080p but at least it's 144Mhz and supposedly has 1ms response time. Better is subjective. Which one has the features you are most interested in? Think the main reason most of us picked the 2710 is because it's 1440p and you get a nice bonus of it being OC. No where near 144Hz but still for a 1440p monitor at the price hard to beat.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *krython*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Do you know what is the difference between QX2710 LED Evolution ll Multi True10 [Matte] and QX2710 LED Evolution ll DP Multi True10 [Matte] ? Dont both have multi inputs ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Don't forget the 2720 is also a *TN* panel not a 1440p / PLS (IPS)









TN = Horrible viewing angles and washed out colors compared to PLS/IPS.

If you take your PC gaming seriously at all you do NOT want the "True10" multi-input version(s)

More info on the True10 multi-inputs *HERE* ... hope that helps


----------



## LandonAaron

If you are on AMD and update to Catalyst 15.7 you will need to download the new version AMD/ATI Pixel Patcher to overclock your monitor with CRU. Get version 1.3.4 here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

CRU 1.2 is still newest verion.


----------



## Dry Bonez

SOOO ummm,im lost. IDK if its my monitor (3x qnix single input), OR my new GTX 980ti. I have 3x of these monitors, and before i was able to connect 2 monitors onto one card just fine using a EVGA gtx 580, So i purchased the Gigabyte G1 windforce GTX 980ti with 2x dvi ports, so i tried connecting it onto the other port with no signal..... am i missing something here?


----------



## p3dr0maz

Double check the Gigabyte specs cause reference nvidia 980 ti and most aftermarket only has 1 DVI and Gigabyte added an extra one and an extra controller for it. Does it work on its own? It might be a bad connector esp if it's the add on one. Also might only work in certain cases.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> SOOO ummm,im lost. IDK if its my monitor (3x qnix single input), OR my new GTX 980ti. I have 3x of these monitors, and before i was able to connect 2 monitors onto one card just fine using a EVGA gtx 580, So i purchased the Gigabyte G1 windforce GTX 980ti with 2x dvi ports, so i tried connecting it onto the other port with no signal..... am i missing something here?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p3dr0maz*
> 
> Double check the Gigabyte specs cause reference nvidia 980 ti and most aftermarket only has 1 DVI and Gigabyte added an extra one and an extra controller for it. Does it work on its own? It might be a bad connector esp if it's the add on one. Also might only work in certain cases.


sooo should i return it?


----------



## playboysmoov

I would say so if you are depending on two DVI-D slots and the card doesn't have it. According to newegg you have one DVI-D and one DVI-I on that card.

DVI-I will not drive a QNIX panel....so go ahead and return it and look for a card with two DVI-D ports....


----------



## p3dr0maz

Yeah that's the flagship nvidia card so anything else is a downgrade. Didn't realize they both weren't dual link. IMO he needs to side grade his monitors to multi input version or try an adapter. http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *playboysmoov*
> 
> I would say so if you are depending on two DVI-D slots and the card doesn't have it. According to newegg you have one DVI-D and one DVI-I on that card.
> 
> DVI-I will not drive a QNIX panel....so go ahead and return it and look for a card with two DVI-D ports....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> SOOO ummm,im lost. IDK if its my monitor (3x qnix single input), OR my new GTX 980ti. I have 3x of these monitors, and before i was able to connect 2 monitors onto one card just fine using a EVGA gtx 580, So i purchased the Gigabyte G1 windforce GTX 980ti with 2x dvi ports, so i tried connecting it onto the other port with no signal..... am i missing something here?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> sooo should i return it?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *p3dr0maz*
> 
> Double check the Gigabyte specs cause reference nvidia 980 ti and most aftermarket only has 1 DVI and Gigabyte added an extra one and an extra controller for it. Does it work on its own? It might be a bad connector esp if it's the add on one. Also might only work in certain cases.
Click to expand...

Both of those are Dual DVI-I/DVI-D ports and should work! ... try as p3d suggested and run single tests, only one monitor at a time on each port. You might also post over in the G1 980ti thread *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *playboysmoov*
> 
> I would say so if you are depending on two DVI-D slots and the card doesn't have it. According to newegg you have one DVI-D and one DVI-I on that card.
> 
> *DVI-I will not drive a QNIX panel*....so go ahead and return it and look for a card with two DVI-D ports....


*A Dual DVI-I port WILL work and the 980Ti G1 is suppose to have 2!* ... 1x Dual DVI-I / 1x Dual DVI-D









G3D confirms it does *HERE* ... towards the bottom of the page ... hope that helps












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> If you are on AMD and update to Catalyst 15.7 you will need to download the new version AMD/ATI Pixel Patcher to overclock your monitor with CRU. Get version 1.3.4 here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> CRU 1.2 is still newest verion.


Thanks! +R for this








I'll pass it on to Lawson for the OC thread


----------



## QuickFix

A little internet search indicates that card does have two dual link ports:



here's the card:



I'm running three QX2710 from two EVGA GTX670 FTW+ 4GB, each with a DVI-I and DVI-D port. The "-D" has nothing to do with dual link.

DVI-I vs DVI-D:

http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/221/~/what-is-the-difference-between-dvi-i-and-dvi-d%3F


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p3dr0maz*
> 
> Yeah that's the flagship nvidia card so anything else is a downgrade. Didn't realize they both weren't dual link. IMO he needs to side grade his monitors to multi input version or try an adapter. http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E


i need to side grade? what is that?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuickFix*
> 
> A little internet search indicates that card does have two dual link ports:
> 
> 
> 
> here's the card:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running three QX2710 from two EVGA GTX670 FTW+ 4GB, each with a DVI-I and DVI-D port. The "-D" has nothing to do with dual link.
> 
> DVI-I vs DVI-D:
> 
> http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/221/~/what-is-the-difference-between-dvi-i-and-dvi-d%3F


you are correct, soo whats wrong with my card? dont tell me i have a faulty port. if i do, i will return my card


----------



## p3dr0maz

Did you do any testing by only connecting each one at a time? It should work man. The connectors should be compatible test them individually.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> i need to side grade? what is that?


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p3dr0maz*
> 
> Did you do any testing by only connecting each one at a time? It should work man. The connectors should be compatible test them individually.


I mean, idk what kind of testing im supposed to do exactly. I have 3 of these monitors as i mentioned, tried every monitor in both slots and the only one that works is DVI-I not D. Then i tried 2 monitors at the same time, and again,only the DVI I port works. idk what to do. Should i return it? because eventually i will get ANOTHEr to do SLI for triple monitor gaming..... which bw, will this card do 3 monitor gaming on one card?


----------



## p3dr0maz

Yeah it sounds like there might be something wrong with that connector. The only other test I can think of is to try the card on a different rig and then see if the connector works then. Gl mate. That might not be something you can do. If you're not having success return it. Especially when it sounds like you have a extreme setup where having as many DVi connectors available as possible is paramount.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I mean, idk what kind of testing im supposed to do exactly. I have 3 of these monitors as i mentioned, tried every monitor in both slots and the only one that works is DVI-I not D. Then i tried 2 monitors at the same time, and again,only the DVI I port works. idk what to do. Should i return it? because eventually i will get ANOTHEr to do SLI for triple monitor gaming..... which bw, will this card do 3 monitor gaming on one card?


----------



## QuickFix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> you are correct, soo whats wrong with my card? dont tell me i have a faulty port. if i do, i will return my card


Reading the thread from the start of your problem, I don't see any mention that you've contacted OEM support on the issue. I would start there. If they offer little or no help, return the card to the vendor for refund or replacement. My experience with EVGA support has been excellent if you're considering a replacement.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuickFix*
> 
> Reading the thread from the start of your problem, I don't see any mention that you've contacted OEM support on the issue. I would start there. If they offer little or no help, return the card to the vendor for refund or replacement. My experience with EVGA support has been excellent if you're considering a replacement.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p3dr0maz*
> 
> Yeah it sounds like there might be something wrong with that connector. The only other test I can think of is to try the card on a different rig and then see if the connector works then. Gl mate. That might not be something you can do. If you're not having success return it. Especially when it sounds like you have a extreme setup where having as many DVi connectors available as possible is paramount.


So after a day of messing with it. I have tried soooo many things but FINALLY got it working with a nifty trick (weird). Ok, So i tried all 3 cables on all 3 monitors and inter changing them in between utilizing both ports but one messd up.
Solution: all i literally id was unplug all connections from my GPU, I was tempted to remove the GPU and reseating it, So what i did was simply turn the power switch on the back of my PSU (Seasonic X 760w) off and turned it back on, connected the cables, and magically turned on.


----------



## rsiyasena

Hey you guys I'm currently experiencing some weird issues on my setup. I bought the Fury X a few weeks ago along with the necessary Active DP->DVI-D adapter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A493CNY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) to allow it to run my QX2710 monitor.

First thing I noticed is whenever the input to the monitor gets "reset" aka whenever i apply new changes on CCC the monitor flashes with lines all over the screen and then resumes being normal. Here is a picture of the response: http://i.imgur.com/KsOJEPL.jpg

Similarity, when I attempt to play certain games I observe those lines except this time it doesn't disappear. Games like Battlefield 4, Witcher 3, Far Cry, Dota 2, Sniper V2, Dirt Rally all work fine albeit seeing the lines for a second. However, games like Wolfenstein - Old Blood and Hawken "reset" my monitor input and I'm presented with the no signal color pattern on my screen. Response:


http://imgur.com/p7lVo


I've tried reset my active adapter during the no signal response to no effect. Any Ideas?


----------



## bomerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsiyasena*
> 
> Hey you guys I'm currently experiencing some weird issues on my setup. I bought the Fury X a few weeks ago along with the necessary Active DP->DVI-D adapter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A493CNY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) to allow it to run my QX2710 monitor.
> 
> First thing I noticed is whenever the input to the monitor gets "reset" aka whenever i apply new changes on CCC the monitor flashes with lines all over the screen and then resumes being normal. Here is a picture of the response: http://i.imgur.com/KsOJEPL.jpg
> 
> Similarity, when I attempt to play certain games I observe those lines except this time it doesn't disappear. Games like Battlefield 4, Witcher 3, Far Cry, Dota 2, Sniper V2, Dirt Rally all work fine albeit seeing the lines for a second. However, games like Wolfenstein - Old Blood and Hawken "reset" my monitor input and I'm presented with the no signal color pattern on my screen. Response:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/p7lVo
> 
> 
> I've tried reset my active adapter during the no signal response to no effect. Any Ideas?


return fury x
buy 980 ti
ditch active adapter
profit.


----------



## p3dr0maz

Cross post this to the FuryX thread for more looks. I'm not sure since I have a 980 TI. Didn't realize team red removed DVD on their latest flagship.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsiyasena*
> 
> Hey you guys I'm currently experiencing some weird issues on my setup. I bought the Fury X a few weeks ago along with the necessary Active DP->DVI-D adapter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A493CNY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) to allow it to run my QX2710 monitor.
> 
> First thing I noticed is whenever the input to the monitor gets "reset" aka whenever i apply new changes on CCC the monitor flashes with lines all over the screen and then resumes being normal. Here is a picture of the response: http://i.imgur.com/KsOJEPL.jpg
> 
> Similarity, when I attempt to play certain games I observe those lines except this time it doesn't disappear. Games like Battlefield 4, Witcher 3, Far Cry, Dota 2, Sniper V2, Dirt Rally all work fine albeit seeing the lines for a second. However, games like Wolfenstein - Old Blood and Hawken "reset" my monitor input and I'm presented with the no signal color pattern on my screen. Response:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/p7lVo
> 
> 
> I've tried reset my active adapter during the no signal response to no effect. Any Ideas?


----------



## 70_Malibu

Uh boy. After doing a bunch of research, I decided to take the Korean monitor challenge, sight unseen. I have a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II 27" LED on the way.

What have I done, what have I done.

Please be a good one. I'm really hoping to get more than what I paid for. I'm worried about possible backlight bleed but decided to take the risk.

I had a 24" Westinghouse L2410NM that was at 1920 x 1200. It was very nice for the price I paid, until it took a swan dive off my desk due to my stupidity. Sigh.

Wish me luck!


----------



## bluedevil

Well.....my QX2710 is a goner. My kids threw a wooden block at it tonite......cracked and bleeding.







So mad atm......Currently on a 22" 1080P Samsung HDTV. This is painful compared to 1440P. Really didnt want to send more money atm....


----------



## Namahs

Does anyone know the return/repair policy on the XStar? Mine was working beautifully for 9 months, and then just blew out on me.

I've had it since last fall and used it very conservatively.
Never ran it above 60fps, never changed the stand, never touched the thing with any tools or modding whatsoever. Just used it as a normal monitor for a few hours a day.
Then this past week I was watching a YouTube video, and sporadically the screen went all white. It then started to flicker between white and black rapidly.
I hit spacebar to pause on the video, thinking YouTube must have glitched. The sound of the video stopped, but the screen continued to flash white and black.
I force shut down my PC and rebooted. There is no BIOS, no icons of any kind. The second the PC turns on, the screen flashes black and white. The only change was after about ten more seconds of flashing, the screen settled on a bright grey color. The monitor is now stuck like that, and whenever it's powered on and the PC is on, the monitor just displays a uniform full screen of whitish-grey.
I thought my video card (gtx970) might have come loose so I took apart my PC, cleaned the dust, and reattached everything. No dice. So, I went and got my crappy old 720p monitor and hooked it up using the same ports and the same video card. And 'lo and behold, the 720 monitor works flawlessly. Swap the DVI cable to the XStar though, and blam, back to uniform grey.
Any idea what might have happened here? I'm at a loss for an explanation really, I don't understand how it could have just shot itself in the middle of playing a video. I wasn't even touching my desk when it happened, I don't know what pushed it over the edge.

Any tips on things I can check to try and fix it? Or any idea if I can send this back to the seller to repair after 9 months of normal use? I bought it from Dream-seller, but I don't see any notes on his page about returns.


----------



## Brock1samson9

Does anybody run triple QX2710's for gaming. I'm looking to go with such a setup for my simracing rig (iRacing and rFactor 2 mainly) and I'm debating if my R9 290x can handle it. Any advice?


----------



## p3dr0maz

For the price I was pleasantly surprised. Think you'll be happy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *70_Malibu*
> 
> Uh boy. After doing a bunch of research, I decided to take the Korean monitor challenge, sight unseen. I have a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II 27" LED on the way.
> 
> What have I done, what have I done.
> 
> Please be a good one. I'm really hoping to get more than what I paid for. I'm worried about possible backlight bleed but decided to take the risk.
> 
> I had a 24" Westinghouse L2410NM that was at 1920 x 1200. It was very nice for the price I paid, until it took a swan dive off my desk due to my stupidity. Sigh.
> 
> Wish me luck!


----------



## p3dr0maz

3x 1440p for one r9 290x I think is too much . someone with more experience correct me if I'm wrong. I think it might have trouble maintaining 60 fps on just one 1440p. I know iracing and rfactor 2 aren't the most demanding games graphically but that's still what 7680x4320? A lot of game to render. I have heard crossfire scales really well but just one card idk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brock1samson9*
> 
> Does anybody run triple QX2710's for gaming. I'm looking to go with such a setup for my simracing rig (iRacing and rFactor 2 mainly) and I'm debating if my R9 290x can handle it. Any advice?


----------



## p3dr0maz

You could try a different cable. Simplest thing. All the way to opening it up and checking all the connections. Not sure how one would've came loose but idk. Email whoever you bought it from. I have heard of people having just PCBs replaced by sellers for free or for cheaper than buying the whole panel (hopefully it's not the panel if it was it'd probably be all black? Idk) . I don't think there's a warranty but it doesn't hurt to ask.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Namahs*
> 
> Does anyone know the return/repair policy on the XStar? Mine was working beautifully for 9 months, and then just blew out on me.
> 
> I've had it since last fall and used it very conservatively.
> Never ran it above 60fps, never changed the stand, never touched the thing with any tools or modding whatsoever. Just used it as a normal monitor for a few hours a day.
> Then this past week I was watching a YouTube video, and sporadically the screen went all white. It then started to flicker between white and black rapidly.
> I hit spacebar to pause on the video, thinking YouTube must have glitched. The sound of the video stopped, but the screen continued to flash white and black.
> I force shut down my PC and rebooted. There is no BIOS, no icons of any kind. The second the PC turns on, the screen flashes black and white. The only change was after about ten more seconds of flashing, the screen settled on a bright grey color. The monitor is now stuck like that, and whenever it's powered on and the PC is on, the monitor just displays a uniform full screen of whitish-grey.
> I thought my video card (gtx970) might have come loose so I took apart my PC, cleaned the dust, and reattached everything. No dice. So, I went and got my crappy old 720p monitor and hooked it up using the same ports and the same video card. And 'lo and behold, the 720 monitor works flawlessly. Swap the DVI cable to the XStar though, and blam, back to uniform grey.
> Any idea what might have happened here? I'm at a loss for an explanation really, I don't understand how it could have just shot itself in the middle of playing a video. I wasn't even touching my desk when it happened, I don't know what pushed it over the edge.
> 
> Any tips on things I can check to try and fix it? Or any idea if I can send this back to the seller to repair after 9 months of normal use? I bought it from Dream-seller, but I don't see any notes on his page about returns.


----------



## TheSwede86

Hi!

I am thinking about buying a 1440p 100Hz+ IPS gaming monitor and I would pref. want G-Sync but I don't want (or have) the money to spend around 8000 SEK (around $950 or £610) for Asus PG278Q (which has a TN-panel) or the Acer Predator XB270HU so I think a Qnix QX2710 will be a big upgrade from my AOC G2460PQu. The upcoming Asus PG289Q (which has an IPS-panel) will be around the same price as the other monitors I mentioned so there is no need to wait for that.

Since I read the stickies in this thread I concluded:
- Not to choose a "True10" Qnix monitor with multiple inputs since they OC worse then the regular version
- Not to choose "SE"-variants since they have worse QC
- Not to choose "Off-grade"-variants since they have defects (BBL, dead/stuck pixles etc)
- The "PixelPerfect" / "PixelPlus" option seems to not have any advantage over choosing a monitor that does not have that option (i.e. both are good)

Is there anything I have missed?

I was thinking about this one which is according to my sorting ("Buy now", "Price incl. S&H to Sweden") the best price:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-PC-Monitor-/121114422949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c32fb6ea5
The monitor seems to fulfill the "requirements" I posted above (i.e. Not a "True10"-version etc.).

When I am buying the monitor I am thinking about buying another stand since people seem to think that the stand that comes with the monitor is quite "plasticky", do you guys agree with this or is it fine? Was thinking about this one which is sold by the same seller on Ebay so I can get them both in the same order:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX-27-Mount-Stand-Pivot-Tilt-Elevation-Swivel-VESA-100x100-for-27-QX2710-/121694531268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c558f2ec4


----------



## bluedevil

So most likely gonna buy a new QX2710 to replace my cracked one.







Currently have a Matte version that OC'd to about 105hz tops, any more luck with a Glossy to get to the blessed 120hz?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So most likely gonna buy a new QX2710 to replace my cracked one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently have a Matte version that OC'd to about 105hz tops, any more luck with a Glossy to get to the blessed 120hz?


As they say, good things dont last. Qnix is no longer the safe bet of before. The glossies now use a different panel and are not as good as before:






Not sure if its an ongoing situation, but better be safe than sorry.

The matte (according to some) now mostly use PWM dimming. I wouldnt recommend Qnix to anyone at this stage. Another promising monitor currently trending:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


----------



## piee

have qnix glossy oc to 118, doesnt darken when oc,07 panel, no pwm at max brit, then lower brit in software nvcp to 27, pixel clock custom to 451.48mhz, 4 months going strong.
qnix matte 02 panel darkens when oc but has better saturation


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> As they say, good things dont last. Qnix is no longer the safe bet of before. The glossies now use a different panel and are not as good as before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if its an ongoing situation, but better be safe than sorry.
> 
> The matte (according to some) now mostly use PWM dimming. I wouldnt recommend Qnix to anyone at this stage. Another promising monitor currently trending:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


Someone is offering me a XStar, so most likely that will be my ticket back.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> So most likely gonna buy a new QX2710 to replace my cracked one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently have a Matte version that OC'd to about 105hz tops, any more luck with a Glossy to get to the blessed 120hz?


There have been alot of used korean monitors on ebay lately stating they have been stably overclocked.


----------



## haru3173

Hi everyone I'm on the market of buying 1440p monitor. Is this one alright? it is sold by green-sum
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-27-MULTI-TRUE10-2560x1440-Monitor-/111364284557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19edd4208d


----------



## goodkeys

If you don't absolutely need the HDMI-Port it would be better to go with a DVI-D Link only model. The multi-input models (=Multi-True10) have a higher input lag, and don't overclock as well, if at all.
Also, the perfect pixel option is not necessary, or may even be counterproductive. Most people who buy without the pixel perfect option receive a pixel perfect panel anyway. And if there are no pixel defects guaranteed then there are most probably problems elswhere (after all there is a reason why the panel is deemed to be A grade and not A+), which may be much worse than a dead pixel.
All in all you may be better off with this, for example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7c39ae25

Accessorieswhole is a reliable seller, and his items ship very fast. Green-sum has a good reputation as well though, so you can go with him just as well. Just make sure that it is neither of those and you should be fine:

- multi true10
- SE version
- off grade


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haru3173*
> 
> Hi everyone I'm on the market of buying 1440p monitor. Is this one alright? it is sold by green-sum


Spend a little bit more on the Crossover 2795 QHD (thread with more information) which is superior in every way. There are also better multi-input Korean monitors if you want HDMI.


----------



## haru3173

thanks! im considering getting the 2795qhd now.
Is this a good one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CrossOver-2795QHD-2560x1440-LG-AH-IPS-Non-Glare-27-Monitor-/221708397727?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339ed9ac9f

I also saw some 27qhd and its cheaper but I guess they're different?


----------



## bluedevil

Think I am gonna nab another Qnix or X-Star. Is a SE bad? I would love to get to 120hz OC this time. What models would greatly increase my chances?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haru3173*
> 
> I also saw some 27qhd and its cheaper but I guess they're different?


It's a cheaper non overclock-able variant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Think I am gonna nab another Qnix or X-Star. Is a SE bad? I would love to get to 120hz OC this time. What models would greatly increase my chances?


Buying a Qnix/X-Star is pointless since the Crossover 2795 QHD (official thread) is better and does not suffer from panel or PWM lottery. The only way to get a guaranteed 120hz monitor is by buying a used one from someone who can prove theirs can OC to 120hz.


----------



## SmackHisFace

Hey guys I just installed windows 10 tech preview because I was having lots of issues with 8.1. Problem is in Windows 10 when I try to OC my Qnix in Nvidia control Panel I hit "apply" but the overclock doesn't apply. Anyone else have this issue? Running win 10, SLI 980ti, 353.30 driver.


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Hey guys I just installed windows 10 tech preview because I was having lots of issues with 8.1. Problem is in Windows 10 when I try to OC my Qnix in Nvidia control Panel I hit "apply" but the overclock doesn't apply. Anyone else have this issue? Running win 10, SLI 980ti, 353.30 driver.


You can use the Pixel Clock OC in EVGA Precision (in properties).


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It's a cheaper non overclock-able variant.
> 
> Buying a Qnix/X-Star is pointless since the Crossover 2795 QHD (official thread) is better and does not suffer from panel or PWM lottery. The only way to get a guaranteed 120hz monitor is by buying a used one from someone who can prove theirs can OC to 120hz.


How high are people getting with the 2795QHD? Especially since its about $80 more than a X-Star/Qnix?


----------



## 70_Malibu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *70_Malibu*
> 
> Uh boy. After doing a bunch of research, I decided to take the Korean monitor challenge, sight unseen. I have a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II 27" LED on the way.
> 
> What have I done, what have I done.
> 
> Please be a good one. I'm really hoping to get more than what I paid for. I'm worried about possible backlight bleed but decided to take the risk.
> 
> I had a 24" Westinghouse L2410NM that was at 1920 x 1200. It was very nice for the price I paid, until it took a swan dive off my desk due to my stupidity. Sigh.
> 
> Wish me luck!


I received and hooked up the new monitor today. I can't believe it shipped half way around the world, with a stop in Alaska to arrive here in the "heartland" in 2 days!!! That is indeed sorcery.

It looks pretty decent! No dead pixels. The colors are vibrant. Black does look a little washed out, though. Changing viewing angles (within 178*) does seem to shift the tint of dark black, but backlight bleed doesn't appear to be an issue. I'll have to mess with the settings to tweak it to personal preference and see if I can get it PERFECT.

OMG - real estate. Unreal. I hope my GTX 760 can keep up with demands. I haven't tried gaming or overclocking yet. I'll overclock it if I feel a need to, but my last monitor was 60hz, and I didn't have a problem with that. Older eyes perhaps.

The bios screen shows on boot up, too. I thought I read somewhere that someone said it didn't.

Overall, pretty dang happy for a little over $300, though. Thanks Overclock.net!

*-EDIT AFTER MESSING WITH IT-*

Unfortunately for me, there IS pretty substantial, uncorrectable (through software and messing with the brightness on the monitor) backlight bleed after I tried adjusting the blacks to be more dark/realistic. In the lower left corner, and to a lesser extent, the lower right corner.

Pressing on the screen lightly in the lower left corrected the bleed issue there. The screen was kind of flopping around and not mounted very well. So I did the scientific thing and wedged a small, wadded up piece of paper between the plastic bezel and the screen to duplicate the pressure. Much better.

As for the lower right, though the bleed isn't as bad, the paper trick wont work as the screen isn't flopping around there like the lower left corner was. There might actually be too much pressure on the screen causing it. At this point it's not bad enough for me to warrant taking it apart and to try twisting the frame to mess with it. I can deal.

I do stand behind my no dead pixel statement though, so that's good.

I also bumped up the frequency to 75hz using the Nvidea software to see if I would notice a difference in gaming. It IS better. I think I'll leave it there for now.

Still pretty happy overall. The colors are nice.


----------



## SmackHisFace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dotachin*
> 
> You can use the Pixel Clock OC in EVGA Precision (in properties).


Thats not working either. Neither is CRU

Now Nvidia CP says my monitor is 96hz as does windows but when I test on blur busters it only says 60hz. Any ideas?


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Thats not working either. Neither is CRU
> 
> Now Nvidia CP says my monitor is 96hz as does windows but when I test on blur busters it only says 60hz. Any ideas?


If you've got an extra drive somewhere you can install Windows 7 or 8 in it and see if the problem is windows 10 related or nvidia drivers related.


----------



## catbeef

i have an r9 290 and since the catalyst update to 15.7 which i only installed yesterday i have been unable to get my CRU refresh rate to actually show up in catalyst control center..



i have been following the below steps as i have always done in the past with no problem;

uninstall all previous drivers
install 15.7
restart pc
run atikmdag patcher
set my 96hz (highest my monitor seems to go) in CRU
restart
set refresh rate in catalyst cc.. only obviously this time i can't for some reason?

windows 8.1 x64, qnix branded monitor.. not sure what else you might need to know, i figured maybe it was the new version of catalyst but the page for CRU seems to say it should work with 15.7 so i am just lost as to what to try next


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbeef*
> 
> i have an r9 290 and since the catalyst update to 15.7 which i only installed yesterday i have been unable to get my CRU refresh rate to actually show up in catalyst control center..
> 
> 
> 
> i have been following the below steps as i have always done in the past with no problem;
> 
> uninstall all previous drivers
> install 15.7
> restart pc
> run atikmdag patcher
> set my 96hz (highest my monitor seems to go) in CRU
> restart
> set refresh rate in catalyst cc.. only obviously this time i can't for some reason?
> 
> windows 8.1 x64, qnix branded monitor.. not sure what else you might need to know, i figured maybe it was the new version of catalyst but the page for CRU seems to say it should work with 15.7 so i am just lost as to what to try next


You used the newest version of the patcher? The old version doesn't work with the 15.7s, but I used the new one and my 96Hz is recognized like usual.


----------



## catbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You used the newest version of the patcher? The old version doesn't work with the 15.7s, but I used the new one and my 96Hz is recognized like usual.


oh nuts, i cannot believe i missed that! thanks~


----------



## slayersic

i just received my Qnix QX2710 today, so far its dead pixel free but i just wanna know if this is normal?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slayersic*
> 
> i just received my Qnix QX2710 today, so far its dead pixel free but i just wanna know if this is normal?


Yep that's pretty typical IPS glow. Could try the tape/frame bend mods to correct it.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Yep that's pretty typical IPS glow. Could try the tape/frame bend mods to correct it.


There is no way to correct IPS glow, it's a function of the panel itself. Backlight bleed can be corrected with straightening/tape mods, however.

The top and bottom left look like typical IPS glow, but the bottom right seems more like backlight bleed to me.


----------



## slayersic

here's with 0 brightness





is there any way to fix this w/o opening the monitor?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slayersic*
> 
> here's with 0 brightness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is there any way to fix this w/o opening the monitor?


If you look at the corner from straight ahead (with your head at the corner, looking straight into the monitor), can you still see the light? IPS glow occurs when looking at the corner from the center of the monitor, basically looking at the panel more edge-on instead of straight ahead. If the glow moves or changes when you move your head, then it is IPS glow and is just a function of the panel technology, with no way to eliminate it. If the light doesn't change, then it is probably backlight bleed and can be fixed if it really bothers you.


----------



## dante`afk

the PSU for one of my Qnix's stopped working yesterday, first I was thinking the screen died, but when I plugged in the PSU form my other qnix it worked.

respective screen is exactly 2 years old and still going.


----------



## slayersic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> If you look at the corner from straight ahead (with your head at the corner, looking straight into the monitor), can you still see the light? IPS glow occurs when looking at the corner from the center of the monitor, basically looking at the panel more edge-on instead of straight ahead. If the glow moves or changes when you move your head, then it is IPS glow and is just a function of the panel technology, with no way to eliminate it. If the light doesn't change, then it is probably backlight bleed and can be fixed if it really bothers you.


it doesn't change, with 0 brightness i can still see a minimal glow at the lower right. oh well.


----------



## renji1337

My QNIX is calibrating to 6800-7050k white using native whitepoint, should i manually have it do 6500k?


----------



## Jacklim

I can't decide between Acer XB270HU and qnix qx2710.
Is g sync really worth it?
Also I live in Burma.
One of the sellers from Amazon ships the qnix to my country with 20$.
The seller ships from Korea.
The Acer xb270hu shipping fees to my country is about 650$.
Also this will be my first build and I am thinking about using a qnix while waiting for the g sync technology to be refined and buy it when it is cheaper?
Thanks,
Jack


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> I can't decide between Acer XB270HU and qnix qx2710.
> Is g sync really worth it?
> Also I live in Burma.
> One of the sellers from Amazon ships the qnix to my country with 20$.
> The seller ships from Korea.
> The Acer xb270hu shipping fees to my country is about 650$.
> Also this will be my first build and I am thinking about using a qnix while waiting for the g sync technology to be refined and buy it when it is cheaper?
> Thanks,
> Jack


Forget Qnix, too risky, you wont get the same good monitor as before.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/23780#post_24164329


----------



## joshkope

Has anyone had problems overclocking with the new AMD drivers? I patched them and set up CRU and for some reason the overclock doesn't show up in CCC.

EDIT: NVM NVM I just had an outdated version of the ATI/AMD Patcher.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> If you are on AMD and update to Catalyst 15.7 you will need to download the new version AMD/ATI Pixel Patcher to overclock your monitor with CRU. Get version 1.3.4 here: http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> CRU 1.2 is still newest verion.


Foreman and Landon are right +Reps









I PM'd Lawson the other day to update the OC thread (my sig), but forgot to tell wntrsnowg will get on that today if no one else hasn't already








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slayersic*
> 
> i just received my Qnix QX2710 today, so far its dead pixel free but i just wanna know if this is normal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> There is no way to correct IPS glow, it's a function of the panel itself. Backlight bleed can be corrected with straightening/tape mods, however.
> 
> The top and bottom left look like typical IPS glow, but the bottom right seems more like backlight bleed to me.
Click to expand...

No that is not normal, BUT somewhat typical of the Korean panels, AND the Acer XB270HU for that matter








Forceman is right again and you have a combination of IPS glow and "obvious" BLB, especially in the lower right corner! I haven't heard of anyone being able to fix the newer models yet with "frame straightening" (check OC thread for details) with the newer models, apparently they don't have the same internal metal frame anymore? But if you understand the process you may find some success with other remedies, report back if you go for disassembly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> I can't decide between Acer XB270HU and qnix qx2710.
> Is g sync really worth it?
> Also I live in Burma.
> One of the sellers from Amazon ships the qnix to my country with 20$.
> The seller ships from Korea.
> The Acer xb270hu shipping fees to my country is about 650$.
> Also this will be my first build and I am thinking about using a qnix while waiting for the g sync technology to be refined and buy it when it is cheaper?
> Thanks,
> Jack


This is a no-brainer unless you're budget dictates otherwise ... $800+$650 (shipping/duty fees)= $1450 vs $200 to $350 for an overclockable QNIX. I just picked up a used QNIX glossy for $202.50 shipped for a friends build. This monitor is beautiful! Colors are not washed out, No dead pixels and "seriously" NO BLB with very minor glow and it clocks to 110Hz. Yes it has PWM but he has no prob with PWM, IMO to many people make to big of a deal over PWM!

BUT if you know you have a problem with PWM diming you might look into the PWM free Crossover 2795QHD (QNIX knockoff) *HERE* for appx $350









NOW for the XB270HU ... also no PWM! AND G-Sync is the "BOMB" it needs no further refinements!
BUT and it is a big one ... The QC has been pretty bad (much worse than a QNIX) bad enough that I won't buy one until I can see it/test it in person 1st and I want one bad. The dirt in the panel coating and BLB has caused many to return their units over 3x's+ looking for one with decent quality not to mention dead pixels ... SO if it is expensive for you to go through the shipping costs for returns I'd stay far away from the Predator ... more scary info *HERE* ... and *HERE*









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Forget Qnix, too risky, you wont get the same good monitor as before.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/23780#post_24164329


Well I disagree "unless" you know you suffer from PWM ... and there are other drawbacks like the internal frame for BLB issue's and on the whole they don't seem to reach a 120Hz+ OC very often like the old days ... BUT for on average $250 it is still a heck of a deal!


----------



## renji1337

Here is my native whitepoint calibration @ 96hz. It's usually showing 6800k, two runs it calibrated to 7000k!





This is the run when I manually make it go to 6500k


----------



## blued

I hear Spyder 4 is not very accurate. Obvious thing to do is lower it to 6300-6400k and check results.


----------



## renji1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> I hear Spyder 4 is not very accurate. Obvious thing to do is lower it to 6300-6400k and check results.


It's accurate enough, its less accurate than the more expensive colorimeters but thats with contrast ratios, the spyder actually does the color temp pretty decently. I'm thinking my panel just has a higher default color temp around 6800k.

I might go from 140cdm/2 to 120cdm/2 and target 6500k.

I also acidentally hit WIDE GAMUT when I calibrated but that wouldnt affect much.

scratch what i said about it being inaacurate, apparantly the spyder 3 was whats inaccurate. I have a spyder4. Its still not as accurate as the others but its within a percentage that isnt noticeable.


----------



## bluedevil

Just ordered another Qnix QX2710 from Accessorieswhole on ebay. Hopefully I get a 120Hz OC'able model!


----------



## Jacklim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> This is a no-brainer unless you're budget dictates otherwise ... $800+$650 (shipping/duty fees)= $1450 vs $200 to $350 for an overclockable QNIX. I just picked up a used QNIX glossy for $202.50 shipped for a friends build. This monitor is beautiful! Colors are not washed out, No dead pixels and "seriously" NO BLB with very minor glow and it clocks to 110Hz. Yes it has PWM but he has no prob with PWM, IMO to many people make to big of a deal over PWM!
> 
> BUT if you know you have a problem with PWM diming you might look into the PWM free Crossover 2795QHD (QNIX knockoff) *HERE* for appx $350
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW for the XB270HU ... also no PWM! AND G-Sync is the "BOMB" it needs no further refinements!
> BUT and it is a big one ... The QC has been pretty bad (much worse than a QNIX) bad enough that I won't buy one until I can see it/test it in person 1st and I want one bad. The dirt in the panel coating and BLB has caused many to return their units over 3x's+ looking for one with decent quality not to mention dead pixels ... SO if it is expensive for you to go through the shipping costs for returns I'd stay far away from the Predator ... more scary info *HERE* ... and *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I disagree "unless" you know you suffer from PWM ... and there are other drawbacks like the internal frame for BLB issue's and on the whole they don't seem to reach a 120Hz+ OC very often like the old days ... BUT for on average $250 it is still a heck of a deal!


What you said just changed my mind.
I am gonna order a crossover instead of qnix.
Does crossover has a better chance of getting over clocked to 120hz?
I feel like crossover has a better Q.C than Qnix.
Thanks tom


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Just ordered another Qnix QX2710 from Accessorieswhole on ebay. Hopefully I get a 120Hz OC'able model!


Did you order the Matte or Glossy? If it's the Glossy I'm curious to see what you think? The one I just purchased really surprised me. With the exception of PWM (depending on brightness) and not quite reaching 120Hz (solid 110Hz/stock timings) I think it compares very favorably to my original 120Hz glossy.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> What you said just changed my mind.
> I am gonna order a crossover instead of qnix.
> Does crossover has a better chance of getting over clocked to 120hz?
> I feel like crossover has a better Q.C than Qnix.
> Thanks tom


Glad I could be of help, monitors are a tricky decision and I might say have the largest impact on your overall experience than any other component with enthusiast level gaming









I would say their QC might be better with BLB (not pixels) ... only time will tell, BUT as far as overclocking ability there is no advantage, as I have not seen a single 2795 reach "verified" 120Hz yet. I have seen a few newer QNIX's reach 120Hz, but that's probably just because of sheer numbers (% of attempts).
Some one needs to disassemble a 2795 and post close up pics of the panel/PCB model numbers.

TC keep us informed


----------



## sinnedone

Does anyone have the stock stand for one of these monitors they don't mind getting rid of?

I know it's an odd request being that they're not very good, I just need one to modify for an idea I have.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Hello!

I have 3 monitors (2 qnix and 1 x-star) all connected to one r9 290 (running 3-way CF) 1 using DP to DVI-D adapter. Everything was working fine in win 8.1, but after upgrading to win 10 10240 (the supposed RTM release), I've been having issues as you can see in the vid:



The issues are related to the adapter I believe, since they are gone when I disconnect it and only use the 2 monitors that are connected via DVI-D ports.
Any ideas?

Thanks!


----------



## blued

Working in 8.1 but not 10. Not sure if you'll find much help on that as it appears to be a win 10 issue. Its why I never abandon a properly working OS. Always dual boot to avoid such problems.


----------



## bluedevil

Just gotta say, so far I am impressed with Accessorieswhole on eBay. Ordered my Qnix QX2710 on Thursday night, and I just got confirmation that I will get my Qnix on Monday. HOLY CRAP! So that means, from Soul, South Korea to Michigan it took 4 days TOTAL! wow....


----------



## Dekkers

I ordered one of these monitors yesterday before reading the end of this thread. I had done a bunch of research a few months ago and was set on this monitor.
After reading this thread I have horrible buyers remorse. The monitor I am using now is a Dell U2312hm that I cannot stand because of the AG coating making text hard to read.

Mostly I am worried about the flickering issue and I ordered a glossy instead of a matte







I got glossy thinking text would be easier to read because there would be no ag coating.
Please, someone reassure me I am still getting a good monitor and that a glossy screen isn't that bad. What have I done.


----------



## piee

have the glossy with 07 panel for 6mths now, it is superb, doesnt darken when oc like the DL02 matte panel, oc to 120hz but keep it at 118 with pxl clock at 451.48 customized in NVCP, will oc to 114hz
without customized timings, does have pwm flicker but not at max britness than lower briteness using software nvcp like putiing sunglasses on, super smooth at 118hz in bf4.


----------



## anewmachine1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f

Is this a decent overclockable version? I am aware that it's off grade, just want to know if it's a good version before clicking the buy button








$230 with shipping seems nice enough

Thanks


----------



## blackout24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anewmachine1*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f
> 
> Is this a decent overclockable version? I am aware that it's off grade, just want to know if it's a good version before clicking the buy button
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $230 with shipping seems nice enough
> 
> Thanks


There is only one overclockable version which is the version with the single DVI-I Input.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dekkers*
> 
> I ordered one of these monitors yesterday before reading the end of this thread. I had done a bunch of research a few months ago and was set on this monitor.
> After reading this thread I have horrible buyers remorse. The monitor I am using now is a Dell U2312hm that I cannot stand because of the AG coating making text hard to read.
> 
> Mostly I am worried about the flickering issue and I ordered a glossy instead of a matte
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got glossy thinking text would be easier to read because there would be no ag coating.
> Please, someone reassure me I am still getting a good monitor and that a glossy screen isn't that bad. What have I done.


DON'T PANIC ... unless you are absolutely sure you suffer from PWM diming. Many people don't, and most wouldn't even know what it is if it wasn't for this thread. Also I can confirm piee comments above regarding less noticeable PWM with higher brightness settings. I recently picked up a glossy L07 for a friend's build and it is very nice, 110Hz stock timings (443.11 pixel clock), No dead pixels, No BLB, slight IPS glow, no gamma shift AND it's a *"glossy"*!
If your a glossy fan, where there is a definite advantage of clarity/sharpness of image over a matte panel ... Where are you going to find an overclockable 1440p IPS panel for under $300, the closest competitor is an Overlord @ $450 (almost always out of stock) or the Cat2B @ $500.

On the downside I can notice (just barely) the slight image ghosting caused by PWM dimming of the newer L07 vs my older L02 glossy at my average brightness levels, but if you never owned the latter, you'd probably never notice ... give your new panel a chance without all the preconceived negatives and enjoy









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anewmachine1*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f724ae9f
> 
> Is this a decent overclockable version? I am aware that it's off grade, just want to know if it's a good version before clicking the buy button
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $230 with shipping seems nice enough
> 
> Thanks


Yep that's the overclockable one and my link lists it at $199 shipped! But the chance of serious flaws is clearly stated in the listing ... possible outright panel "stains" / uniformity problems arrrrgh









If you have some patience and know how to work ebay (or the OCN used market) that is a great way to buy a monitor "Pre-Tested"! As an example I purchased the glossy above for $202.50 shipped essentially a QC tested open box item! And I just missed out on a very rare used Cat2B for under $200 a couple of weeks ago, honestly we probably won't see that deal again for quite sometime, but QNIX/X-Stars come up all the time for appx $180 to $250 +/- shipping.


----------



## Dekkers

Thank you guys for the reassurance. Hope I get a good one.


----------



## bluedevil

Yeah baby! 120hz!





From what I see, I have some blb.







but I can live with that.


----------



## nalo123

Does anyone have tips on calibrating a dual monitor setup with two different models?

I have a QX2710 EVO II and a X-star, and the two are very different in colour; the Qnix seems to have a warm reddish hue over it, while the X-star feels colder and whiter.

Synchronizing the two monitors' color has been difficult because the Qnix monitor doesn't have an OSD to control contrast. I've tried using the software 'Calibrize' and the AMD control panel to little success. I've tried various color profiles in Color Sustainer as well - still the same difference.

I don't want them to be perfectly synched, but I do want them to at least the same 'feel' of either cold or red. Any tips?


----------



## Aerione

Does anyone know if overclocking the Multi True10 version affects the input lag?
I can easily overclock mine to 85 hz without dropping frames, and while I don't have anything against the slight decrease in visual quality, I am concerned about the fact that I might increase the input lag.


----------



## Jboss

Hey guys, is it me or is there a problem with overclocking the monitor after the new AMD patch? I patched it today and i tried overclocking it again but it doesn't work. I reset the values and everything, still only shows 60 hz when i put in multiple different options in terms of hz.

Thx.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Hey guys, is it me or is there a problem with overclocking the monitor after the new AMD patch? I patched it today and i tried overclocking it again but it doesn't work. I reset the values and everything, still only shows 60 hz when i put in multiple different options in terms of hz.
> 
> Thx.


You need to get the new version of the patcher.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You need to get the new version of the patcher.


Is it released yet? I deleted the old versions and downloaded the new one and it still doesn't work.


----------



## Wynd

Hi, i just bought a 2nd qnix 2710 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419) and went to plug it into my gigabyte 980tis 2nd DVI port and its not working. Both ports are dual link, one is I and one is D. The one plugged into the I port works and the D port doesn't. Which is odd because on newegg it says this monitor will work in a DVI-D port. I really don't want to have to waste another 100$ to buy an active display port to DVI adapter, is there any cheap adapter that you guys have tested that actually works?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wynd*
> 
> Hi, i just bought a 2nd qnix 2710 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419) and went to plug it into my gigabyte 980tis 2nd DVI port and its not working. Both ports are dual link, one is I and one is D. The one plugged into the I port works and the D port doesn't. Which is odd because on newegg it says this monitor will work in a DVI-D port. I really don't want to have to waste another 100$ to buy an active display port to DVI adapter, is there any cheap adapter that you guys have tested that actually works?


Someone earlier in this thread had the same problem with his 980 Ti, also I think a Gigabyte. Not sure if he was able to fix it or not - try looking back a few pages and see if you can find the posts.


----------



## jim2point0

Anyone having trouble getting the QNIX driver to install on Windows 10?


----------



## blued

Theres no need for a Qnix 'driver'. Whatever (INF) versions there are of it only changes the 'generic' label in device manager to the name/model no QX2710 or panel HYO049B I believe. There is no technical benefit to it.


----------



## jim2point0

When creating resolutions with higher refresh rates, I can't see them in windows until I install that driver.


----------



## blackout24

You have to disable driver verification check:


----------



## jim2point0

Thanks duder. *internet hug*


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aerione*
> 
> Does anyone know if overclocking the Multi True10 version affects the input lag?
> I can easily overclock mine to 85 hz without dropping frames, and while I don't have anything against the slight decrease in visual quality, I am concerned about the fact that I might increase the input lag.


I have the same monitor overclocked to 60hz and there doesn't seem to be any noticable input lag either way.


----------



## Aerione

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> I have the same monitor overclocked to 60hz and there doesn't seem to be any noticable input lag either way.


60hz is the standard, though. I was talking about going higher than that, like 85hz or something.


----------



## JynxLee

If you guys were starting all over today, knowing what you know and with what is currently being sold, what would you buy? I was about to purchase a qnix 1440p to overclock but I was on page 1 of this thread, the closer I got to the end I wasn't sure anymore.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> If you guys were starting all over today, knowing what you know and with what is currently being sold, what would you buy? I was about to purchase a qnix 1440p to overclock but I was on page 1 of this thread, the closer I got to the end I wasn't sure anymore.


I was just in that exact boat. I bought the same again for a few reasons.

1. 4K 120/144hz isn't even a thing yet.
2. PLS is leagues better than TN.
3. The amount of money spent on something similar, or ROG Swift, would been twice what I spent on my Qnix QX2710 Evo 2.

Plus I got mine up to 120hz, so that makes me soo happy I didn't pay more.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I was just in that exact boat. I bought the same again for a few reasons.
> 
> 1. 4K 120/144hz isn't even a thing yet.
> 2. PLS is leagues better than TN.
> 3. The amount of money spent on something similar, or ROG Swift, would been twice what I spent on my Qnix QX2710 Evo 2.
> 
> Plus I got mine up to 120hz, so that makes me soo happy I didn't pay more.


Yea I got back and forth on 4k. I don't play a lot of games where I need a high fps but its nice to have it when I need it. I have an older 1080p LG 27 IPS that I just found out will OC to 75hz tonight. But I can't tell. I just wan't sure if I should try with this qnix or the crossover now that other's are buying.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Yea I got back and forth on 4k. I don't play a lot of games where I need a high fps but its nice to have it when I need it. I have an older 1080p LG 27 IPS that I just found out will OC to 75hz tonight. But I can't tell. I just wan't sure if I should try with this qnix or the crossover now that other's are buying.


If you do, I would buy from Accessories Whole if you can. Darn good seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## shwarz

would definitely replace my qnix with another if it decided to die. touch wood.
swift and predator 2-3 times the price just doesnt seem worth it


----------



## Rogue One

Just got my xstar from dream-seller on ebay today and I am very happy with it so far but I notice there is a distinct whine coming from it. When the monitor is turned off its silent. I don't think it's that huge of a deal because I game with a headset but when I do want to use this computer for just web browsing that sound is going to get annoying. Please let me know if you have had this issue and if so what did you do to fix it. Thanks

Sean


----------



## sir cuddles

Do you guys know any ebay sellers where you don't have to pay return shipping if there is an issue? So far the best I've seen is greensum having some of the monitors are based in california, which would be a lot cheaper to pay return shipping to than korea.


----------



## goodkeys

Accessorieswhole. I specifically asked them about their return shipping policy, and there answer was that in the first three months upon receiving the screen they will cover the return shipping cost. Also, during the one year warranty period they send out repair parts at no cost for the buyer (I think you have to send them a video documenting the issues with your screen, after which they'll send a spare part and guide you through the installation). Their pixel policy is much better than dreamsellers too. Based on my experience with them I recommend accessorieswhole. They are very responsive, friendly, the monitor arrived ultra fast and didn't have any faults. No dead/stuck pixel, no blb. But of course, I might just have been lucky


----------



## Aerione

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aerione*
> 
> Does anyone know if overclocking the Multi True10 version affects the input lag?
> I can easily overclock mine to 85 hz without dropping frames, and while I don't have anything against the slight decrease in visual quality, I am concerned about the fact that I might increase the input lag.


Question still stands... Anyone?


----------



## sinnedone

There is a review linked to in the first post I believe about the single input version and overclocking to 96hz lowered the response time. According to the review. If the multi is similar then i wouldn't worry.

Try it out yourself. If you can't tell a difference then don't worry about it.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I have 3 monitors (2 qnix and 1 x-star) all connected to one r9 290 (running 3-way CF) 1 using DP to DVI-D adapter. Everything was working fine in win 8.1, but after upgrading to win 10 10240 (the supposed RTM release), I've been having issues as you can see in the vid:
> 
> 
> 
> The issues are related to the adapter I believe, since they are gone when I disconnect it and only use the 2 monitors that are connected via DVI-D ports.
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks!


this is actually not win 10 related... just rolled back to a clean win 8.1 install and as long as the third monitor is connected via the active adapter i get the same corruption as in the video.
I also tried another adapter with the same results.


----------



## slayersic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Yeah baby! 120hz!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what I see, I have some blb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I can live with that.


did you used the dvi cable that comes with the monitor? i can only do 110hz max using the free one


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slayersic*
> 
> did you used the dvi cable that comes with the monitor? i can only do 110hz max using the free one


Yep, I might change it out for the Monoprice 16awg one I have though.


----------



## blackout24

I can do 120 Hz easily with the provided cable if I use the tightened timing from the overclocking thread.


----------



## jim2point0

Can anyone recommend a good monitor stand\arm that will allow me to flip this sucker into portrait mode, as well as have some rotate\tilt?

I think the stand is my least favorite part of this monitor after the obnoxiously thick bezel.


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007617%2050089723%20600012694%20600030620

Got some questions. I'm trying to help a friend pick a high res and big monitor, and I know these are relatively cheap for said res and size. Which one should I get, though? I doubt he'll be overclocking them. Is there any difference between glossy and matte? What's the TRUE10 mean? Is Perfect Pixel better? Yadda yadda yadda. Thank y'all. <3


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007617%2050089723%20600012694%20600030620
> 
> Got some questions. I'm trying to help a friend pick a high res and big monitor, and I know these are relatively cheap for said res and size. Which one should I get, though? I doubt he'll be overclocking them. Is there any difference between glossy and matte? What's the TRUE10 mean? Is Perfect Pixel better? Yadda yadda yadda. Thank y'all. <3


Big question these days is if your friend suffers from PWM dimming or not? Info *HERE* ... A majority of people don't seem to but it is something to consider. The newer QNIX/X-Stars seem to have PWM dimming now. So to be on the safe side I'd recommend the Crossover 2795 ... thread info *HERE* ... it only comes in a matte panel







... but on average OC's 96Hz-110Hz (120Hz pretty rare) with no gamma correction ... it also will cost you appx $50+ more.

As far as overclocking, just do it for him it's quite simple (10min) and makes a noticeable difference even on the desktop and working in windows! Once you go 1440p overclocked refresh rate you'll never settle for the dreary world of 60Hz again









Matte vs Glossy ... for me that is a very important choice as I'm spoiled by the obvious clarity/sharpness a glossy provides over the same matte version panel. BUT it's more for the enthusiasts that can control the lighting conditions to prevent the glare that "can?" be associated with glossy panels under less than ideal lighting conditions. Take your glossy laptop or IPad and do a few tests, set it up where your monitor would be, to check for glare and see if you prefer glossy or not. The problem with glossy is the QNIX model has PWM dimming so if that is a problem you will have to spend considerably more for a PWM free Yamakazi Cat2B ($500+) or an Overlord ($450) if there in stock which is rare.

I'd stay far away from the True10 model unless you absolutely need multiple inputs ... read carefully my info *HERE* ... also talks about pixel perfect









Hope that helps get you started


----------



## v3ngence

I got my TRUE10 QX2710 to 88 Hz with no frame skipping over DVI, and I can't see any flickering or pwm issues

It is annoying that I can't get full 2k resolution with the hdmi port but I'll take it so that I can switch between using my laptop and gaming computer


----------



## sir cuddles

Wow, these ship really fast from Korea. It didn't even take 48 hours after my order to receive it. The monitor actually arrived faster than Amazon Prime items ordered the same day.

It has a single stuck pixel which is disappointing, but otherwise the screen looks great, no backlight bleed and good colors. The build quality and stand is terrible, but I was expecting as much for the price.


----------



## blado

I keep losing my display at random times on rare occasions. No driver crashes from my 980 ti, so I can only hope the DVI cable is dying. Either that or the DVI slot on my card is bad. I'm hoping it's the cable. New one should be here in a couple days.


----------



## zeppoli

guys, do you think if I buy this

QNIX QX2710

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1NB1871&cm_re=1440p-_-0JC-0009-00020-_-Product

I can overclock to at least 90hz?

looking for a 1440P resolution monitor that will do at least 90hz or more

Let me explain a little more.. I bought a topsync monitor not long ago for 180, it cannot over clock even at 70hz it fails.

With my now 980ti I would like to take advantage of a little faster refresh rate and sold my dad this monitor for 150.00, If I buy this QX2710 and only get 60hz I would be pissed, but if only get 90hz I would be ok with it, I am after all spending another 100 bucks or so, so I hope it hits 90hz a little.

which one should I get? I see a bunch on newegg, all the same model with different prices?

Thanks

EDIT** I know this is the Qnix topic but what about this monitor on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U8LCRYI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

looks like it says 95hz is possible. Will that monitor size up to the qnix ?


----------



## Infinite Jest

Just grabbed a QX2710 glossy from green-sum for $209 to potentially replace my Dell u2312hm. Hopefully won't get burned on this! Some of that back-light bleed looks pretty hideous.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeppoli*
> 
> guys, do you think if I buy this
> 
> QNIX QX2710
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1NB1871&cm_re=1440p-_-0JC-0009-00020-_-Product
> 
> I can overclock to at least 90hz?
> 
> looking for a 1440P resolution monitor that will do at least 90hz or more
> 
> Let me explain a little more.. I bought a topsync monitor not long ago for 180, it cannot over clock even at 70hz it fails.
> 
> With my now 980ti I would like to take advantage of a little faster refresh rate and sold my dad this monitor for 150.00, If I buy this QX2710 and only get 60hz I would be pissed, but if only get 90hz I would be ok with it, I am after all spending another 100 bucks or so, so I hope it hits 90hz a little.
> 
> which one should I get? I see a bunch on newegg, all the same model with different prices?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> EDIT** I know this is the Qnix topic but what about this monitor on Amazon
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U8LCRYI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
> 
> looks like it says 95hz is possible. Will that monitor size up to the qnix ?


The single input (Dual DVI input only) are the only truly overclockable QNIX's (96Hz to 120Hz)








Do yourself a favor and read (carefully) my post 4 above yours and the links!
Your 1st link, QNIX True10 is not the model you want to maximize overclocks without dropping frames!
Your second link is not the model of Crossover you want either, you want the 2795 ... again see my links above


----------



## BadRobot

Alright. I am very interested and finding a lot of links, some old, some not absolutely sure. Can anyone direct me to the most recent ebay or amazon links?

I have the Qnix QX2710 Evolution II and the X Star DP2710. I think the one I want is the Qnix one? For overclocking at least?

edit: R9 290 does have dual link dvi


----------



## jforce321

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110920266460?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I heard that the new qnix has pwm flickering, but does it still overclock at all? I was trying to decide between these two monitors since theyre both cheap at 210 bucks.


----------



## BadRobot

Yeah, I want to avoid the PWM flickering thing. If I'm getting a great monitor, I want it to have the least possible problems ^^

edit: I should add, I'm using the monitor mostly for gaming and watching videos. Yamakasi or Qnix? Or even the Cross Over 2795QHD?


----------



## Coconutshells

So, I'm considering buying a Qnix 2710 Evolution II (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419
or http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-QNIX-Evolution-2560x1440-Monitor/dp/B00TPGCAAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438102437&sr=8-1&keywords=qnix+evolution+2 )
as my second 1440p monitor and I just want to confirm that overclocking still works with those monitors with the methods in this guide? It seems like a good deal, even if you only get 96ish Hz out of it...

Thanks all


----------



## saathe

First time poster here, but long time lurker. I have been looking to get a new monitor for a few years now. After a lot of waffling and reading, I purchased a Qnix branded monitor on Friday. It arrived today and it is amazing. I was able to use the instructions in the OP to get to 120hz no problem, and now will be working on color profiles. TBH the color in several games and video I have viewed thus far look worlds better than my previous 24" monitor. Looking at the color tests online, I don't discern any issues. If that is that case should I bother with ICC profiles or just leave it? Thanks for all of your efforts on this thread!


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saathe*
> 
> First time poster here, but long time lurker. I have been looking to get a new monitor for a few years now. After a lot of waffling and reading, I purchased a Qnix branded monitor on Friday. It arrived today and it is amazing. I was able to use the instructions in the OP to get to 120hz no problem, and now will be working on color profiles. TBH the color in several games and video I have viewed thus far look worlds better than my previous 24" monitor. Looking at the color tests online, I don't discern any issues. If that is that case should I bother with ICC profiles or just leave it? Thanks for all of your efforts on this thread!


Thanks! I've been reading through the posts from june 2015 and I've decided I'll be buying the QNIX QX2710 Evolution II SE from accesorieswhole. I just need to wait for that sweet paycheck.

edit: That sale ends in 4 days. Won't make that. Also read an older post saying SE version had less testing? So instead I'll find a non-SE version.


----------



## GhettoFied

Having just updated to windows 10, I am now unable to overclock. 290x with latest drivers, patched, and all custom refresh rates from CRU are not showing up in advanced display properties. Even after deleting all profiles other than 2560x1440 @96hz, when i boot windows all I get is black screen. Has anyone found a solution for AMD users? Brother has the same monitor and a GTX 770 and he is able to run overclocked using Nvidia control panel.

UPDATE!

Just downgraded back to 15.6 catalyst beta drivers, and overclocking works again! While in 15.7.1, when using atikmdag patcher, the hdmi/dvi limit value was listed as not found. When patching the drivers in 15.6 beta, it said patched (as normal). So, the problem lies in the latest catalyst drivers, not Windows 10.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Having just updated to windows 10, I am now unable to overclock. 290x with latest drivers, patched, and all custom refresh rates from CRU are not showing up in advanced display properties. Even after deleting all profiles other than 2560x1440 @96hz, when i boot windows all I get is black screen. Has anyone found a solution for AMD users? Brother has the same monitor and a GTX 770 and he is able to run overclocked using Nvidia control panel.
> 
> UPDATE!
> 
> Just downgraded back to 15.6 catalyst beta drivers, and overclocking works again! While in 15.7.1, when using atikmdag patcher, the hdmi/dvi limit value was listed as not found. When patching the drivers in 15.6 beta, it said patched (as normal). So, the problem lies in the latest catalyst drivers, not Windows 10.


Did you use the patcher that works on the Win 8 version of 15.7? Wonder if it's a version issue with the Win 10 driver.


----------



## GhettoFied

Not sure, I used version 1.2. I wasn't aware that there is a new version.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Not sure, I used version 1.2. I wasn't aware that there is a new version.


1.3.4 is the newest, and works with 5.7 on Win 8.1 at least.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> 1.3.4 is the newest, and works with 5.7 on Win 8.1 at least.
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher


awesome, thanks for the link!


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Having just updated to windows 10, I am now unable to overclock. 290x with latest drivers, patched, and all custom refresh rates from CRU are not showing up in advanced display properties. Even after deleting all profiles other than 2560x1440 @96hz, when i boot windows all I get is black screen. Has anyone found a solution for AMD users? Brother has the same monitor and a GTX 770 and he is able to run overclocked using Nvidia control panel.
> 
> UPDATE!
> 
> Just downgraded back to 15.6 catalyst beta drivers, and overclocking works again! While in 15.7.1, when using atikmdag patcher, the hdmi/dvi limit value was listed as not found. When patching the drivers in 15.6 beta, it said patched (as normal). So, the problem lies in the latest catalyst drivers, not Windows 10.


The first thing i wanted to change was my overclock after upgrading to Windows 10. How do you check which AMD Catalyst driver version you have? Is it the "Driver Packaging Version"? If so mine is 15.20-150715a-184226E. This means i need to go back and download the older AMD Catalyst driver correct?


----------



## Frenchie

If I buy a single link DVI cable would I be able to hook up one of these Qnix or X-Star Dual Link DVI monitors to the motherboard so that I can use the CPU's iGPU? In the description on eBay it says that these mo intros are not compatible with internal GPU but I don't see why not. If they are worried about people not having the ability to change the monitor settings there is the Intel graphics panel.

https://communities.intel.com/servlet/JiveServlet/showImage/2-191047-231976/intel.png


----------



## livejamie

Is it possible to run two of these monitors through a MacBook pro somehow?

If I can only run one, that's not the end of the world.

What connector/cable(s) would I need?

I'm trying a USB 3.0 to DVI adapter and it doesn't seem to work.


----------



## andygully

My 2 year old X-Star is beginning to die. the back light is turning off in certain spots.
If i switch the monitor off then back on it works again.
Anyone else had this happen?

And finally what can i get to replace it? for a reasonable price like the X-STAR was


----------



## rpalmer92

Can someone please upload the new AMD pixel clock patcher and provide us a link as the monitortest link where the files are usually hosted is broken. I need it ASAP as I've just updated to 15.7.1 driver and I can't get a 177Hz overclock to work with my QNIX QX2414. It is only showing 75, 110 and 144 and it's displaying them as weird numbers like '144p hz" in Catalyst. I am thinking I just need to update the pixel clock patcher as I'm using 1.2.3.


----------



## piee

you can check on replacing the led backlite strip.


----------



## andygully

is that even possible?


----------



## Frenchie

Anyone know why green-sum on eBay has multiple listings for the same Qnix 2710 but at a slightly different price?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?hash=item20d058e2e3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-II-2560x1440-27-LED-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/141491366098?hash=item20f18ae8d2


----------



## spiderxjz82

This has come full circle again for me now.

I'm looking at getting two 980Ti's to power my three Qnix monitors. We all know the Qnix only take Dual Link DVI as inputs.

The 980Tis have: 1x Dual-Link DVI, 3x DisplayPort & 1x HDMI

So, what sort of connector/adapter should I be looking at to run the Qnix at 96Hz off the two 980Ti's?

Some sort of active displayport to DL DVI connector?


----------



## Dotachin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderxjz82*
> 
> This has come full circle again for me now.
> 
> I'm looking at getting two 980Ti's to power my three Qnix monitors. We all know the Qnix only take Dual Link DVI as inputs.
> 
> The 980Tis have: 1x Dual-Link DVI, 3x DisplayPort & 1x HDMI
> 
> So, what sort of connector/adapter should I be looking at to run the Qnix at 96Hz off the two 980Ti's?
> 
> Some sort of active displayport to DL DVI connector?


This one has 2 DVI ports


----------



## passinos

Active DP to DL-DVI Adapter is an option.


----------



## Frenchie

Do the Qnix QX2710 PLS Matte monitors still use the good panel or have they also changed them to crappier ones like the Glossy panels?

Matte monitor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111358944686?hash=item19ed82a5ae


----------



## spiderxjz82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dotachin*
> 
> This one has 2 DVI ports


Has to be reference as I have a custom loop unfortunately!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> The first thing i wanted to change was my overclock after upgrading to Windows 10. How do you check which AMD Catalyst driver version you have? Is it the "Driver Packaging Version"? If so mine is 15.20-150715a-184226E. This means i need to go back and download the older AMD Catalyst driver correct?


go to catalyst manager and click about > software and it will tell you


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *livejamie*
> 
> Is it possible to run two of these monitors through a MacBook pro somehow?
> 
> If I can only run one, that's not the end of the world.
> 
> What connector/cable(s) would I need?
> 
> I'm trying a USB 3.0 to DVI adapter and it doesn't seem to work.


mini display port active dvi dual adapter by Apple works


----------



## livejamie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> mini display port active dvi dual adapter by Apple works


Cool, so get 2 of those?


----------



## Zahix

Does the pixel patcher support Win 10 yet ? (latest build) I want to upgrade my OS but afraid of 60hz


----------



## rhg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawson67*
> 
> Only if you are using a Nvidia card as you can then use NVCP to create your custom resolutions with and not have to worry about EDID conflicts with Nvidia Geforce experience!...as in you do not need to uninstall it or use the blank-extension.dat if you was using CRU... Also the Qnix monitor driver will allow Nvida card users games to see and use there custom resolutions!....As for using the driver with AMD cards using CRU it will make no difference weather you use it or not apart from the fact that your monitor will now be called QX2710 instead of being called a generic pnp monitor.


Does anyone have a link to a tutorial to bypass the EDID or edit it in windows. Most of the the tutorials I find are for linux and I cant get monitor I just bought to display right. It just flickers where I cant read anything, I was able to edit one of the custom resolutions to where I could actually read the screen but it looked horrible otherwise. My video card is nvidia gtx 750 based and I know its a software issue because the monitor looked great on my asrock 3dvision which an amd graphics card


----------



## towerslover101

Hi All, Its confusing how many models there are of this one monitor, im a newbie, I have a powerful pc and want a good display.

So PLEASE can someone send me a link to the BEST variant of this on ebay that I can buy now, thanks


----------



## morecowbell

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT for glossy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/121511478833?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4aa60631 for matte

you may find it cheaper from other sellers but i trust this seller as i have bought two monitors from them (both glossy)

the overclockable version you want is single input, dvi-d version (it will say in the listing description). anything that says MULTI-TRUE in the title is NOT this version, and the one you want to avoid if you want to overclock.


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morecowbell*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT for glossy
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Matte-/121511478833?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4aa60631 for matte
> 
> you may find it cheaper from other sellers but i trust this seller as i have bought two monitors from them (both glossy)
> 
> the overclockable version you want is single input, dvi-d version (it will say in the listing description). anything that says MULTI-TRUE in the title is NOT this version, and the one you want to avoid if you want to overclock.


Accessorieswhole ships to my country and I've seen a couple of people buy from them too. Thanks for the links. Now I know I need to search with "qx2710 -multi -off -se" to filter out the right ones


----------



## towerslover101

Whats best Glossy or none?

Thanks


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *towerslover101*
> 
> Whats best Glossy or none?
> 
> Thanks


Up to you. All my current screens are matte and I don't have bright lights in my room coming from behind me. Glossy is good for better colors so I'll probably pick that one.


----------



## towerslover101

ok thanks, so that matte one you posted, I should be able to get at least 96hz?


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *towerslover101*
> 
> ok thanks, so that matte one you posted, I should be able to get at least 96hz?


No guarantees but green-sum's listing says at least 90Hz. If you get 120 consider yourself lucky!


----------



## towerslover101

ok thanks ,,,,one final question, is this monitor the best high res 1440p for the money or are these others to consider?


----------



## BadRobot

From the first post on page one, there is X-Star and Qnix, both use the same panels and both have the same chance at overclocking. IPS and PLS panels are pretty much the same though PLS is technically better. There is also the Crossover 2795QHD from this forum topic which has no PWM like the Qnix/Xstar might have. Overal, these monitors are the ones you want though the crossover is more expensive. I don't think you'll find a cheaper 1440p monitor that can potentially reach 120Hz refresh rate.

From the Crossover topic:
Quote:


> The Crossover 2795QHD uses a 27" 2560x1440 resolution 8 Bit matte LG AH-IPS panel and can be overclocked. The Crossover 2795 does not use LED PWM Dimming unlike the Qnix/X-Star monitors, has excellent colour presets, high contrast and fast pixel response times. Its main downside is the use of a glossy black bezel which ruins the perceived black depth (Microsoft Paint Example & Monitor Example). Unfortunately, most Korean monitors use glossy black bezels, as do expensive monitors like the Acer XB270HU


I had no idea about pwm flickering till those two topics and I'm undecided on the crossover vs qnix/xstar. I might go for the crossover, even if it's slightly more expensive, to eliminate the chance for pwm dimming since all three monitors can potentially reach 120Hz.


----------



## morecowbell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *towerslover101*
> 
> Whats best Glossy or none?
> 
> Thanks


glossy tends to have colors that "pop" out more... glare could be a problem if you have a lot of light coming into the room from the wrong angles. i use a glossy. my room has a window that i keep the blinds over mostly, and lights on the ceiling. i have no issues with reflections or glare or anything like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *towerslover101*
> 
> ok thanks, so that matte one you posted, I should be able to get at least 96hz?


from what i read, most people are able to get 96hz at least. small sample size, but i bought two glossies from green-sum.. first clocked to 110, second to 105.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *livejamie*
> 
> Cool, so get 2 of those?


Yep, unless you can find a cheaper option


----------



## campingtomz

OK im having issues with a quinx 2710 monitor i just unboxed, i cant get it to work, all it does is flash between colors,

computer specs:
cpu: i7 4790k
gpu: gtx 970 4 gig
16gig ram

can someone please help me with this. its very frustrating.
on the plus side the colors look nice

NEVERMIND. i was using a regular DVI cable, i didnt realize i had to use a Dual link cable. so yeah all works fine now.


----------



## GhettoFied

are you using dual dvi


----------



## doco

i have something driving me crazy. my new gpu only has one dual-link dvi out and so i ordered the displayport to dual-link dvi adapter off monoprice http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042806&p_id=12784&seq=1&format=2

i have two korean monitors. an achievia shimian and the QX2710 which both have only dual-link in. i use the displayport adapter with the shimian. windows 7 detects it and everything but no picture is showing. so i try vice verse - i use the displayport adapter with the QX2710. it worked but cannot overclock it at all. the adapter will only work up to 60hz on 1440p.

so it defeats the purpose as i originally intended this displayport to dual link dvi adapter to work with the shimian (again which is detected but not displaying picture). any tips?

tldr; displayport to dual-link dvi adapter won't work with shimian (but detected. no picture) but will with the qx2710. both korean monitors with only dual-link dvi out. new gpu has 1 dual-link dvi in.

edit: me and an e-friend concluded the monitor hardware/software used in the achievia shimian monitor is not recognizing the digtal signal the adapter is sending. so YMMV on using the adapter with korean monitors.


----------



## Infinite Jest

My glossy qx2710 from green-sum arrived today. The first thing I noticed was how incredibly cheap the case is, literally the crappiest POS I could have imagined. The bezel was popped up in several places and the panel didn't even lie flat. I turned it on and found that the left side of the panel was actually dropped down within the chassis at an angle. I opened 'er up (the inside of the monitor has metal brackets different from the one in the OP) to find the glue securing the left side to the metal bracket had cracked and slipped off the bracket. A little electrical tape fixed that and the massive backlight bleed that this twisting had caused. Otherwise, there is some minimal backlight bleed and fairly pronounced IPS glow, but no dead pixel clusters or obvious color uniformity issues; panel is gorgeous subjectively. I'm cautiously optimistic, but who knows.

One question: is there some kind of alternative casing available to transfer the panel and board of this monitor into?


----------



## XTreMe2k

Hey Guys!

I have a couple of questions, hopefully someone could help me









1. Im looking for a good seller on ebay for the QX2710, and i found "accessorieswhole" which many of you appreciate... he sells some pixelperfect monitors but some of you say, its the same screen... so no need of the pixel perfect?!

2. He sells the 2710 for around 300€ but i found this ( http://www.ebay.de/itm/121572216834?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ) but i dont know if there is some issue? Its not an Offgrade model so i think its the same screen but 50€ less?

3. I would like to upgrade my rig with the MSI R9 390, any problems with this graphics card? driver issue? i want to run it at around 100hz..

4. The Fury X has no DVI-D Port anymore, do you think its out of its lifespan? I want at least do run this Monitor 5 years upon now....

thanks!!


----------



## rhg84

Does anyone know how to bypass the EDID for this monitor for an Nvidia card? The colors are completely off on the monitor and ive tried everything else The monitor asset manager info shows that it appears as a nonRGB screen..


----------



## ThomasTech

Ok, I'm new here. Anyway, I took apart my monitor to clean off a dead gnat that had gotten behind the panel, and everything went great until I tried to turn it back on. The monitor displays light and turns on, but it doesn't show any image. I think I figured out what it is, but I don't know how to fix it. On the connector from the panel to the circuit board two of the wires got pulled out accidentally. I don't know how to reinsert then but maybe you guys can help? It's the red and orange wires


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThomasTech*
> 
> Ok, I'm new here. Anyway, I took apart my monitor to clean off a dead gnat that had gotten behind the panel, and everything went great until I tried to turn it back on. The monitor displays light and turns on, but it doesn't show any image. I think I figured out what it is, but I don't know how to fix it. On the connector from the panel to the circuit board two of the wires got pulled out accidentally. I don't know how to reinsert then but maybe you guys can help? It's the red and orange wires


Is this the single input QX2710? Its PCB looks different to the original QX2710.


----------



## ThomasTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Is this the single input QX2710? Its PCB looks different to the original QX2710.


It's the QX2710 Evolution II off eBay with the DVI and HDMI connector


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThomasTech*
> 
> It's the QX2710 Evolution II off eBay with the DVI and HDMI connector


Ah.. its the QX2710 Evolution II *DPmulti TRUE10*. An entirely different monitor, different internals, different panel. Stupid Qnix should never have used the same main name, model no.


----------



## ThomasTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Ah.. its the QX2710 Evolution II *DPmulti TRUE10*. An entirely different monitor, different internals, different panel. Stupid Qnix should never have used the same main name, model no.


Huh...well is there anything I can do to reconnect those two wires?

EDIT: SUCCESS!!!!! I wrapped some copper wire around the cords and smashed em into the hole and tapped it with electrical tape and BAM it worked


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThomasTech*
> 
> Huh...well is there anything I can do to reconnect those two wires?


I'm sure there is. Just that you might not get a quick response or images of the PCB where its connected properly. There are 1000s of owners of the regular Qnix, but very few of the particular model you have. You can try to 'guess' the wiring and plug them in, I doubt any damage will occur since those wires do not look like they carry much current.

p.s. better consult a more electronics oriented forum who may give better advise on the matter, ie: http://www.electronicspoint.com/


----------



## ThomasTech

Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> I'm sure there is. Just that you might not get a quick response or images of the PCB where its connected properly. There are 1000s of owners of the regular Qnix, but very few of the particular model you have. You can try to 'guess' the wiring and plug them in, I doubt any damage will occur since those wires do not look like they carry much current.
> 
> p.s. better consult a more electronics oriented forum who may give better advise on the matter, ie: http://www.electronicspoint.com/


Hey thanks man! I actually just fixed it using electrical tape and some copper wire! Day=saved


----------



## Infinite Jest

Does anyone have a .icc profile for the L07 glossy panel? As others have said, the default is a bit warm/greenish (not horrendous, but it could use a little help).


----------



## Nedlinin

Anyone had issues with their monitor spitting out garbled pixels/cutting to the red/green/white flashes?

Video of my monitor: (Mild seizure warning)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wmvdzau9t03v327/2015-08-03%2013.55.02.mp4?dl=0

Would love it if anyone knew a fix. Things I've tried so far: different cable, different graphics card.

EDIT: I should mention that the monitor is not overclocked at all.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Something's quite wrong there. Nothing like that here. Does it happen with other monitors too, or only the korean 1440p?

Also, just upgraded my rig to Windows 10, only to find out that NVIDIA's Windows 10 driver seems to have broken my 96hz overclock. Ugh.


----------



## tarboless

I just bought the QX710 and would like another monitor that is similar because my videocard only has one dvi-d dual link. Will it be hard to make QX710 Evolution II DPmulti TRUE10 panel and the QX710 (glossy) single input to look the same in terms of colors, tint, etc? I don't have anything to calibrate them but do plan to download some icc settings. I just don't want 2 wildly different looking monitors side by side.

or do you think I should just suck it and by an active converter?I'd save 100+ if I just buy the multi matte version. OC or gaming on my second monitor is not a priority, but photo editing for the web (instagram & flickr) is. Which of the two monitors would be better for photo editing?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarboless*
> 
> Will it be hard to make QX710 Evolution II DPmulti TRUE10 panel and the QX710 (glossy) single input to look the same in terms of colors, tint, etc?


Yes, it will be hard. The True10 is a totally different monitor, different panel (VA vs PLS), matte vs glossy.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Fantastic work taking all the good posts and putting it all in one place.
> 
> Very well done!
> 
> Add me:
> 
> hamzatm
> QNIX
> QX2710
> 120Hz
> dream-seller
> $289
> No known issues


To you and anyone else, how is the ghosting / input lag / response times when above 96Hz at such refresh rates as 120Hz?

I want to make sure this is a good monitor to get otherwise I will just get an AOC used IPS


----------



## Nedlinin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> Something's quite wrong there. Nothing like that here. Does it happen with other monitors too, or only the korean 1440p?
> 
> Also, just upgraded my rig to Windows 10, only to find out that NVIDIA's Windows 10 driver seems to have broken my 96hz overclock. Ugh.


Only the Qnix. My second Qnix and my Samsung don't have the issue at all.

It also turns out that it only seems to have the pixelation issues on the *right* side of the monitor.


----------



## oneilljstn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> Also, just upgraded my rig to Windows 10, only to find out that NVIDIA's Windows 10 driver seems to have broken my 96hz overclock. Ugh.


Same thing happened to me.. Upgraded to win 10 and lost my oc. Can't for the life of me seem to get it back.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

I did some research and it appears that rolling back to the previous driver will allow you to set an overclock.

I think you can then upgrade to the windows 10 driver and continue using the overclock, but once you touch it at all in nvidia's control panel, it'll go berzerk and set you back at 60hz.

I think that's what happened to me as I was running at 96hz on windows 8.1, and had it on windows 10 until I messed with it.


----------



## Seafodder

This is the main reason I'm going to be sticking with Windows 7 for the foreseeable future... I'll be waiting for someone much more clever than me to post a fix... I refuse to lose my overclock!


----------



## THFourteen

Just hit the button on a QX2710 Pixel Perfect Matte DVI-D from accessorieswhole. Under £200 delivered, not too bad (customs probably about £40 on top i reckon).

Excited and panicy at the same time, also need to hide it from my wife...

Bit gutted to see that the latest NVidia drivers break the overclock on Windows 10 though, my gaming PC only has windows 10 (was insider preview with free upgrade and i don't want to buy windows 8!).

Any chance we could use CRU or something instead?


----------



## thresherhorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THFourteen*
> 
> Just hit the button on a QX2710 Pixel Perfect Matte DVI-D from accessorieswhole. Under £200 delivered, not too bad (customs probably about £40 on top i reckon).
> 
> Excited and panicy at the same time, also need to hide it from my wife...
> 
> Bit gutted to see that the latest NVidia drivers break the overclock on Windows 10 though, my gaming PC only has windows 10 (was insider preview with free upgrade and i don't want to buy windows 8!).
> 
> Any chance we could use CRU or something instead?


I've been using CRU because of the newer drivers, seems much more stable, granted more hassle to work with to some degree (having to restart every time u adjust something) - but atleast when I move a webpage across monitors and touch the QNIX screen with the webpage while playing a game it doesn't downclock and revert to 60 hz.... why it does that is beyond me.

I hope you get an older model, seems the newer ones are much harder to get high stable overclocks.

With my absolute tightest adjustments I was able to get 96hz. Pixel clock cap on the new ones seems much lower (like 375 as opposed to a buddy that bought his a year ago or so, that can get 110 with a pixel clock of 450 and no problems)

So good luck to you


----------



## THFourteen

Fingers crossed! I am not really looking for 120hz, 96 would be more than fine for me, i'm not an expert gamer plus i hate having to dial down settings to increase fps (although i do have a 980TI so should be OK for a while in most games).

For your CRU settings are you just using the standard LCD timings and adjusting the refresh rate?

Either way i think this monitor will be a massive upgrade for me on my Samsung 245B TN panel i bought in 2011 or so.


----------



## bluedevil

Anyone have any experience with the ErogoTech Freedom Arm?

http://www.amazon.com/Ergotech-Freedom-Arm-Mount-Single/dp/B00CEHME92

Thinking of getting one to put on my new custom desk I will be making.


----------



## THFourteen

I'm going for the Lavolta dual monitor stand on my custom desk. Well custom desk meaning ash painted MDF on a warehouse style shelving unit.

Damn I ordered the monitor two days ago and looks like its already in the depot near my house! Thats speedy from SK to the UK for £20 in 2-3 days


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Different model, but I've got a qnix on one of these. Fairly happy with it, but I got it from amazon warehouse for cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Ergotech-Dual-320-Articulating-Monitor/dp/B008O2HU2C/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1438937851&sr=1-1&keywords=ergotech+320


----------



## SmackHisFace

Hey guys ever since I upgraded to windows 10 blurbusters.com is showing my monitor as 60 hz but both NVCP and windows display settings list my monitor at 96 hz. Any idea what is going on or is there an alternative way to confirm my monitors overclock is working? Im using CRU to OC the monitor but its no different through just NVCP.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THFourteen*
> 
> Fingers crossed! I am not really looking for 120hz, 96 would be more than fine for me, i'm not an expert gamer plus i hate having to dial down settings to increase fps (although i do have a 980TI so should be OK for a while in most games).
> 
> For your CRU settings are you just using the standard LCD timings and adjusting the refresh rate?
> 
> Either way i think this monitor will be a massive upgrade for me on my Samsung 245B TN panel i bought in 2011 or so.


With an Nvidia card you don't need CRU, you can just use the NVCP to set the custom refresh rate.


----------



## THFourteen

I think that used to be the case but according to a few people here Windows 10 broke that so we might need to use CRU for a while.

Will find out when my monitor is delivered today!


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Hey guys ever since I upgraded to windows 10 blurbusters.com is showing my monitor as 60 hz but both NVCP and windows display settings list my monitor at 96 hz. Any idea what is going on or is there an alternative way to confirm my monitors overclock is working? Im using CRU to OC the monitor but its no different through just NVCP.


I too just upgraded to Win 10. Blurbusters validates my 96 Hz overclock but reports the 120 Hz as 60. I'm using the new Edge browser included in Win 10 so I'm thinking that it (like IE) doesn't support past 100 Hz. Not sure why you're not getting a valid 96 Hz OC, though...

Only tweaks I did to make it go was to disable the unsigned drivers check so I could install the Qnix driver using this methodology: 



 and then disable testsigning using this methodology https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/ff553484(v=vs.85).aspx as one of the games I'm currently playing uses EasyAntiCheat which didn't like the unsigned driver check being turned off.

I'm running on a GTX 970 card and just used the automatic settings in Nvidia Control Panel for the OCs.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THFourteen*
> 
> I think that used to be the case but according to a few people here Windows 10 broke that so we might need to use CRU for a while.
> 
> Will find out when my monitor is delivered today!


still working here fine on up to date win10.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmackHisFace*
> 
> Hey guys ever since I upgraded to windows 10 blurbusters.com is showing my monitor as 60 hz but both NVCP and windows display settings list my monitor at 96 hz. Any idea what is going on or is there an alternative way to confirm my monitors overclock is working? Im using CRU to OC the monitor but its no different through just NVCP.


Use this site: http://www.testufo.com/#test=framerates


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

ok drinking +weed

where find how to OC Korean IPS 1440p 60Hz IPS to at least 96Hz ??????????????

Just switched from AMD to NV

help ????????????????????


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> ok drinking +weed
> 
> where find how to OC Korean IPS 1440p 60Hz IPS to at least 96Hz ??????????????
> 
> Just switched from AMD to NV
> 
> help ????????????????????


Only PLS, no IPS


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

no I mean where;s the programs for NV to OC my QNIX 27?? 60Hz 1440p IPS

I ran it at 96Hz without and bother for ages with the AMD required stuff


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> no I mean where;s the programs for NV to OC my QNIX 27?? 60Hz 1440p IPS
> 
> I ran it at 96Hz without and bother for ages with the AMD required stuff


You can set a custom refresh rate directly in NVCP in Win 8, did they take it out in 10?


----------



## OneGun

Cause the new browser only runs at 60


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You can set a custom refresh rate directly in NVCP in Win 8, did they take it out in 10?


Ok [[/I]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Only PLS, no IPS


I can OC my 1440p IPS Qnix Korean MONITOR

continues the shouting in German in my my mind

No REALLY I CAN and WILL OC this monitor past 60Hz........and maybe u DIE ....for ????????????????????????????????????????????????????


----------



## Josh Lyman

After a little more than 3 years of service, my PCBank 3View died last weekend. There's a short somewhere but no visible physical damage to the circuit boards so I've given up hope of fixing it.

Which means I'm looking for another 1440p glossy replacement. If I'm not concerned about overlcocking, the Qnix/X-Star still the most affordable option? This one claims Pixel Perfect for $220 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/261971203898


----------



## PixelBurstHD

Windows 10 definitely doesn't 'break' monitor overclocks as some people are reporting. The new driver works fine in exactly the same way, just install the monitor driver then head into NVCP. Edge is definitely framerate locked and doesn't report overclocks properly on test sites as a result.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PixelBurstHD*
> 
> Windows 10 definitely doesn't 'break' monitor overclocks as some people are reporting. The new driver works fine in exactly the same way, just install the monitor driver then head into NVCP. Edge is definitely framerate locked and doesn't report overclocks properly on test sites as a result.


Edge seemed to work fine for me in the frame skipping test at 96Hz.


----------



## PixelBurstHD

Interesting I just tried again and it also worked. However when I installed it it definitely didn't and I thought something was broken until I launched chrome and tried - maybe mine needed a restart or something to kick in on Edge that it could go higher *shrugs*


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Josh Lyman*
> 
> After a little more than 3 years of service, my PCBank 3View died last weekend. There's a short somewhere but no visible physical damage to the circuit boards so I've given up hope of fixing it.
> 
> Which means I'm looking for another 1440p glossy replacement. If I'm not concerned about overlcocking, the Qnix/X-Star still the most affordable option? This one claims Pixel Perfect for $220 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/261971203898


Pretty sure that seller is a scammer, look at their history and the ship time. They'll be gone with your money by the time it has "shipping issues". If you don't care about overclocking, there may be better options than the QNIX/X-star.


----------



## PixelBurstHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Josh Lyman*
> 
> After a little more than 3 years of service, my PCBank 3View died last weekend. There's a short somewhere but no visible physical damage to the circuit boards so I've given up hope of fixing it.
> 
> Which means I'm looking for another 1440p glossy replacement. If I'm not concerned about overlcocking, the Qnix/X-Star still the most affordable option? This one claims Pixel Perfect for $220 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/261971203898


I ordered this one a couple of weeks back from accessorieswhole http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111358944686?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT currently $279.00. Ordered late Thursday night, arrived Monday morning via UPS to the UK. No dead pixels as advertised, and minimal backlight bleed to the right of the logo (only really visible on fully black screens) but obviously every monitor will be different but I thought it was a pretty good grab for the price, especially with the speed of the delivery.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> ok drinking +weed
> 
> where find how to OC Korean IPS 1440p 60Hz IPS to at least 96Hz ??????????????
> 
> Just switched from AMD to NV
> 
> help ????????????????????
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kaltenbrunner*
> 
> Ok [[/I]
> I can OC my 1440p IPS Qnix Korean MONITOR
> 
> continues the shouting in German in my my mind
> 
> No REALLY I CAN and WILL OC this monitor past 60Hz........and maybe u DIE ....for ????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Click to expand...

LoL Chill man ... Technically your single-input overclockable QX2710 is a Samsung "PLS" panel, it's Samsung's version of LG's IPS technology which is also overclockable with the Cat2B variant









Welcome to the Green Team it makes overclocking very simple ... see *Here* or my sig ... also take the time to install the QNIX monitor driver it will save you some "potential" headaches down the road especially with certain older gaming programs ...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Josh Lyman*
> 
> After a little more than 3 years of service, my PCBank 3View died last weekend. There's a short somewhere but no visible physical damage to the circuit boards so I've given up hope of fixing it.
> 
> Which means I'm looking for another 1440p glossy replacement. If I'm not concerned about overlcocking, the Qnix/X-Star still the most affordable option? This one claims Pixel Perfect for $220 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/261971203898
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deepchunk*
> 
> Pretty sure that seller is a scammer, look at their history and the ship time. They'll be gone with your money by the time it has "shipping issues". If you don't care about overclocking, there may be better options than the QNIX/X-star.
Click to expand...

I agree with deepchunck that guy looks like a scammer (price to good to be real for a new unit?) But ebay will have to cover you if he's a flake







... *Here's* the best reputable deal for a "Glossy" also $279







... But be warned if you know you suffer from PWM diming 99% of the new L07 models have it. The older PWM free OC'able glossies are like gold or you could get a Cat2B or Overlord for appx $500









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PixelBurstHD*
> 
> I ordered this one a couple of weeks back from accessorieswhole http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111358944686?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT currently $279.00. Ordered late Thursday night, arrived Monday morning via UPS to the UK. No dead pixels as advertised, and minimal backlight bleed to the right of the logo (only really visible on fully black screens) but obviously every monitor will be different but I thought it was a pretty good grab for the price, especially with the speed of the delivery.


He specified a glossy, and for us glossy lovers I understand why


----------



## PixelBurstHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> He specified a glossy, and for us glossy lovers I understand why


Nice spot, missed that. Personally having come from a glossy 1080p panel it's great not to see my face all the time (I live on the high street, glare is unavoidable due to the positioning and lighting in the house) I'll probably never buy a glossy panel again! Personal preference I guess


----------



## deepchunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Josh Lyman*
> 
> After a little more than 3 years of service, my PCBank 3View died last weekend. There's a short somewhere but no visible physical damage to the circuit boards so I've given up hope of fixing it.
> 
> Which means I'm looking for another 1440p glossy replacement. If I'm not concerned about overlcocking, the Qnix/X-Star still the most affordable option? This one claims Pixel Perfect for $220 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/261971203898


For glossy if you don't care about OC:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WASABI-MANGO-QHD277-UNIVERVERSAL-27-Monitor-2560x1440-HDMI-x-2-DVI-DP-/371225440901?hash=item566ec2b285

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CrossOver-27SAKWA-27QW-Upgrade-LED-2560x1440-QHD-LG-AH-IPS-Computer-Monitor-/321692890726?hash=item4ae663f666


----------



## blued

If you want glossy but dont OC, the crossover sakwa is the one to get. Although its classified as 'semi-glossy', its ah-ips panel uses PDC coating which has the glossy look but less reflections. Avoid any cheap Korean monitor with multi-inputs as they often cheap out on the PCB which typically have poor brightness control (no backlight dimming) that crushes contrast.

Example: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/wasabi_mango_qhd275_universal.htm

The sakwa has DVI input only which avoids this design flaw. 



.

The Qnix glossies, which were very good early on have switched to an inferior panel and are best avoided. 



.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> If you want glossy but dont OC, the crossover sakwa is the one to get. Although its classified as 'semi-glossy', its ah-ips panel uses PDC coating which has the glossy look but less reflections. Avoid any cheap Korean monitor with multi-inputs as they often cheap out on the PCB which typically have poor brightness control (no backlight dimming) that crushes contrast.
> 
> Example: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/wasabi_mango_qhd275_universal.htm
> 
> The sakwa has DVI input only which avoids this design flaw.
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> The Qnix glossies, which were very good early on have switched to an inferior panel and are best avoided.
> 
> 
> 
> .


"QFT" - beat me to it .... +R


----------



## THFourteen

Monitor arrived today and seems really good so far. Some minor backlight bleeding on the lower right hand side but nothing that I can't handle.

Seemed to overclock to 96hz easily usig NVCP and Windows 10. I only get 96fps in FRAPS playing games in windowed mode rather than full screen tho, is that normal?

PES 2015 for example gets a solid 96 windowed but seems capped at 60 full screen.

The brower test seems to think my overclock is good


----------



## THFourteen

Ah apparently I need to try and switch on adaptive sync in NVCP


----------



## Ovrclck

I haven't posted in a while... Still running strong @ 110hz 24/7


----------



## Kold

I have a question..

When I run my X-Star at 96Hz, screen burn in happens if the screen sits idle. It always goes away, but it is very noticeable and quite annoying. Any help with this would be appreciated!

My method for overclocking the refresh rate is by just going to nvidia control panel and creating a custom 1440p resolution at 96 hz instead of 60. Am I missing a step?


----------



## DiceAir

Just some feedback. I'm happily running my monitor on 96hz for about 2-3 years now. It's been doing great and still looks like day one i got it minus the dust on the screen but a simple dust cleaner will sort that out. i must say on 96hz it's a perfect mix between colors and smoothness. i had it on 120hz although not fully stable my monitor is to dark and doesn't look good at all. I don't really see the extra smoothness worth sacrificing colors. Overall I'm super happy with the monitor and will cry once all graphics cards doesn't come with Dual-link DVI anymore. I wish I could get one for work as well cause on desktop is still amazing at 60hz. The extra screen space makes it worth it in my opinion.

I want to thanks this forums for being awesome and directing me to the right place to buy and for making me aware of this monitor.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Can anyone with the L07 panel with PWM dimming post what settings they've used in NVCP or another utility long-term to counter the PWM flicker by using max brightness? The motion blur of the panel is markedly worse at anything under 100% brightness for me, but that brightness is close to retina searing status (must be at least twice as bright as 100% on my U2312HM). After seeing a glossy, 1440p monitor it's going to be hard to go back to my old one, so I guess I'll have to start trawling craigslist for an older, flicker-free model if I can't find a 100% brightness stopgap. Thanks.


----------



## piee

brite 50
cont 50
gamma 1.
dig vib 50
hue 0


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piee*
> 
> brite 50
> cont 50
> gamma 1.
> dig vib 50
> hue 0


Thanks, I'll give this a shot tonight.


----------



## kw4z1eb0i

So i got my first qnix qx2710 and it seems that 96hz works fine with dota 2 and alt tabbing but when i get into csgo and i alt tab i get those green lines but ingame i wouldnt see that but if i went to fullscreen windows the green lines will come up this also happens in killing floor 2 any ideas on how to fix this or is it just my monitor?


----------



## kw4z1eb0i

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kw4z1eb0i*
> 
> So i got my first qnix qx2710 and it seems that 96hz works fine with dota 2 and alt tabbing but when i get into csgo and i alt tab i get those green lines but ingame i wouldnt see that but if i went to fullscreen windows the green lines will come up this also happens in killing floor 2 any ideas on how to fix this or is it just my monitor?


Would a new dvi d cable work?
If so reccomend me a cable off amazon


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piee*
> 
> brite 50
> cont 50
> gamma 1.
> dig vib 50
> hue 0


Wait... those are just default settings...


----------



## somedudecro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Wait... those are just default settings...


I just got one of the newer qx2710

You can try
Bright 27
Cont 48

rest default

that's what I'm running atm just from eyeballing lagom lcd site


----------



## boatnik

Anyone know what the state of OCing is on Windows 10/lastest AMD drivers? I have crossfire 280Xs + QNIX @ 96hz and have to use older drivers (version immediately pre-Omega drivers) currently in order to OC. When I tried updating my drivers a couple months ago + OC patching, I could not get OC to work at all (monitor not showing image, green bars/artifacts etc). My PC is ready to update to Windows 10 but I'm weary about trying to go through the whole ordeal of getting OC to work again.


----------



## Sefreyt

Hello guys, just got both my monitor delivered today from green-sum. I bought these :

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution2-27-2560x1440-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/121089977041?hash=item1c31866ad1

Quick shipping. The screens are beautiful. Back light bleeding is negligible.I don't think i have stuck/dead which is a good news but i got something else and it's pretty weird.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Ok, so should I make an assumption that it's engraved in the tempered glass or it might be on the screen itself ?

I got something that look like minor dust between the glass and the screen on the other monitor too but that ain't bad at all barely noticeable even on a all white screen.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I'm gonna contact the seller to see what i can do with this as well as checking what are your expertise here. I don't want to open it yet until I'm set with some answer of course.

As for information, I got free shipping to Canada(Quebec) with DHL and got charges with taxes and custom duties of 111,75CAD. (The taxes here ....)

PS: Back light bleed :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## wryToast

Hey guys, new poster here. Just wanted to clarify a few things after reading the FAQ. The monitor this thread is referring to is the QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll Glossy? I was looking at the truecolor 10 and apparently that monitor is completely different so just wanted to verify. Secondly, since my graphics card doesn't have a dvi-d port, would it be best to use an hdmi to dvi-d cable or would a hdmi to dvi-d converter function just as well. This is in regards to overclocking ability of the monitor.


----------



## sinnedone

IS it ok to install the qnix monitor driver when overclocking with amd cards?

I ask because i would really like for it to say qnix monitor in settings rather than generic. It would help me from picking the wrong monitor to change settings for in catalyst control center.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boatnik*
> 
> Anyone know what the state of OCing is on Windows 10/lastest AMD drivers? I have crossfire 280Xs + QNIX @ 96hz and have to use older drivers (version immediately pre-Omega drivers) currently in order to OC. When I tried updating my drivers a couple months ago + OC patching, I could not get OC to work at all (monitor not showing image, green bars/artifacts etc). My PC is ready to update to Windows 10 but I'm weary about trying to go through the whole ordeal of getting OC to work again.


Working fine for me, just need to get the newest patcher.


----------



## boatnik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Working fine for me, just need to get the newest patcher.


Cool, thanks for the response I'll try it out soon!


----------



## arealMESSiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wryToast*
> 
> Hey guys, new poster here. Just wanted to clarify a few things after reading the FAQ. The monitor this thread is referring to is the QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll Glossy? I was looking at the truecolor 10 and apparently that monitor is completely different so just wanted to verify. Secondly, since my graphics card doesn't have a dvi-d port, would it be best to use an hdmi to dvi-d cable or would a hdmi to dvi-d converter function just as well. This is in regards to overclocking ability of the monitor.


This covers all dual-link DVI-only models. Anything with multiple connections ("DP multi", "multiDP", "True10", etc.) are indeed different.

If you don't have a card with a dual-link DVI connector, then you won't be able to run the DVI-only overclockable monitor. Cable adapters don't work (I tried several different kinds when I first got mine). Now, some sellers even list "DVI-D adapter is NOT compatible" in the description. No image will transmit, and you'll just get the alternating solid color test display if you use an adapter.


----------



## peterke1337

Hey guys, a guy near me is selling a Qnix QX2710 DVI 1440p IPS, he has been using it for 1,5 years (21 months) to be exact..
My first question is, he claims it used to overclock to 120 hz, but with his new videocard (GTX 980) it only goes to 100 hz, is this even possible? a 20 hz difference seems alot?
Second is, lets say it costs around 280 euros with shipping to get a new one here, with a year warranty, what should i pay for this old one?
Is it too risky, what are the chances of it dying soon? etc

Thanks! Also i myself am using a GTX680, not sure how far that will overclock the monitor.

Also, damn that greensum sales, doesnt ship to my country


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arealMESSiah*
> 
> This covers all dual-link DVI-only models. Anything with multiple connections ("DP multi", "multiDP", "True10", etc.) are indeed different.
> 
> If you don't have a card with a dual-link DVI connector, then you won't be able to run the DVI-only overclockable monitor. Cable adapters don't work (I tried several different kinds when I first got mine). Now, some sellers even list "DVI-D adapter is NOT compatible" in the description. No image will transmit, and you'll just get the alternating solid color test display if you use an adapter.


This ^^^^ +R








More info on the True10 multi-input models *HERE* ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterke1337*
> 
> Hey guys, a guy near me is selling a Qnix QX2710 DVI 1440p IPS, he has been using it for 1,5 years (21 months) to be exact..
> My first question is, he claims it used to overclock to 120 hz, but with his new videocard (GTX 980) it only goes to 100 hz, is this even possible? a 20 hz difference seems alot?
> Second is, lets say it costs around 280 euros with shipping to get a new one here, with a year warranty, what should i pay for this old one?
> Is it too risky, what are the chances of it dying soon? etc
> 
> Thanks! Also i myself am using a GTX680, not sure how far that will overclock the monitor.
> 
> Also, damn that greensum sales, doesnt ship to my country


The used one if it's 0 dead pixels/minimal BLB is worth appx $180-$220 US if it is sub 120Hz ... ebay market








20Hz difference sounds like a lot, I occasionally have seen 5-10Hz downgrade when people change cards ... my 680 clocked many a monitor @120Hz ... I've seen no change since my upgrade (980Ti) ... ALSO since that is probably the older L02 panel there is a very good chance it will be PWM diming free, if that matters to you? ... I'm a big fan of the pre-tested slightly used ebay market ... hope that helps


----------



## Barc0de

I have an X-Star from a few years back when the monitors only had DVI output and can comfortably overclock to 110 Hz. I want to get two more for a triple screen setup and was hoping this is achievable through HDMI which apparently these monitors have. I remember reading that some of the newer monitors don't overclock like the old ones, is 110 Hz still achievable? Is HDMI able to handle higher refresh rate like this? Thanks!


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barc0de*
> 
> I have an X-Star from a few years back when the monitors only had DVI output and can comfortably overclock to 110 Hz. I want to get two more for a triple screen setup and was hoping this is achievable through HDMI which apparently these monitors have. I remember reading that some of the newer monitors don't overclock like the old ones, is 110 Hz still achievable? Is HDMI able to handle higher refresh rate like this? Thanks!


Any x-star/qnix model with multiple inputs can only overclock to 85hz or so before they start dropping frames. It has to do with the input board, the reason the dvi models overclock is they don't have that component. Adapters will not work for overclocking as far as I know. Hope this clears things up!


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barc0de*
> 
> I have an X-Star from a few years back when the monitors only had DVI output and can comfortably overclock to 110 Hz. I want to get two more for a triple screen setup and was hoping this is achievable through HDMI which apparently these monitors have. I remember reading that some of the newer monitors don't overclock like the old ones, is 110 Hz still achievable? Is HDMI able to handle higher refresh rate like this? Thanks!


As was mentioned a zillion times before, not only is multi-inputs (ie, ANYTHING with HDMI) not OC properly (85hz max and skips frames), but its a DIFFERENT PANEL altogether! It does not use the Samsung PLS panel which the single input DVI Qnix/Xstar use, but rather an inferior AU Optronics AHVA panel. Read review of multi-input and weep:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm

Anyone looking for HDMI or multi-input 27" 1440p should not be looking at cheap Korean monitors.


----------



## Puunh

Thanks a lot! Got my Q2710 to 110hz 2560x1440p!


----------



## magedoge

Hello,

Have been searching a new monitor for a while now and noticed these korean monitors in ebay. I have read many pages here about those and just had to register so that I can ask few questions. Sorry if they are dumb ones but I'm all new to this.

I have read that Qnix uses worse panels nowadays but is it with both matte and glossy or is this a fact at all? Somewhere noticed something about glossy monitors having bad panels nowadays. Then I noticed second monitor, Crossover 2795QHD. I know this thread is about Qnix/Xstar but I still ask that which one would you order at this time? Do both overclock the same way (I know that it is a lottery with overclocking capabilities but still)? Is there any significant difference in build quality or picture quality? I have read that also Crossover suffers from PWM dimming nowadays, or at least some of them.

Thank you in advance for your answers and helping me pick a monitor since these korean monitors sound very tempting.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magedoge*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Have been searching a new monitor for a while now and noticed these korean monitors in ebay. I have read many pages here about those and just had to register so that I can ask few questions. Sorry if they are dumb ones but I'm all new to this.
> 
> I have read that Qnix uses worse panels nowadays but is it with both matte and glossy or is this a fact at all? Somewhere noticed something about glossy monitors having bad panels nowadays. Then I noticed second monitor, Crossover 2795QHD. I know this thread is about Qnix/Xstar but I still ask that which one would you order at this time? Do both overclock the same way (I know that it is a lottery with overclocking capabilities but still)? Is there any significant difference in build quality or picture quality? I have read that also Crossover suffers from PWM dimming nowadays, or at least some of them.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your answers and helping me pick a monitor since these korean monitors sound very tempting.


Good questions, you did your research properly, even though I know its very hard to find all the important bits in a 23,000 page thread. Several months ago a reviewer (NCX) who is very familiar with the 27" Qnix QX2710 



 comparing the original glossy to the 'new' glossy and on that basis no longer recommends Qnix. The mattes have been reported to have a high incidence of PWM, as well I believe some cost-cutting changes (lower grade parts in frame/ housing as in the vid review). That I believe may have something to do the steep price cuts of Qnix displays lately. So it does seem like a lottery. Thats why I would look elsewhere, like the Crossover 2795QHD. The OC potential should be the same as the Qnix, even if it wasnt I would not get a Qnix nowadays.


----------



## Kold

EDIT: yup I'm an idiot. This was supposed to be posted in the Acer Predator thread.

I figured out my issue and yes ULMB was enabled at certain refresh rates.

Unfortunately, I am already contemplating returning the second try. There is a really brown washed out BLB I've never seen before and it's quite annoying. Is there any chance of fixing this?

The monitor is at 35 brightness in the shot below.


----------



## odin2free

Thank you guys so much for all the info...
so much research to be done for my build (early xmas gift to the dad)
again thank you


----------



## pac0tac0

My xstar 1440p will not turn on anymore, it just made a popping noise out of the speakers. I assume that main board is dead, anyone know where I can get a new one?


----------



## pac0tac0

So my problem turned out to be the power supply failing. after testing it with a multimeter the cheap power supply that came with the monitor could not hold 12v, It kept dropping down from 12 to 9v and spiking all around. I am going to assume that the thing cooked itself to death....


----------



## AnimeNY

1st time posting here on overclock!Just wanted to state that I plan on joining the club soon! Hopefully i recieve a xstar with zero dead pixels and overclockable to 120hz!


----------



## andygully

had an xstar for a few years thinklng of a upgrade as the backlight bleed is annoying any suggestions?


----------



## Kold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andygully*
> 
> had an xstar for a few years thinklng of a upgrade as the backlight bleed is annoying any suggestions?


+1 Would alsolike to know. I'm reading from various sources that say to avoid buying the xstar and qnix variants due to poorer panels and frames used in the newerversions of them. So what should we choose now? Catleap? Yamisaka? Something else? Which type of panel usually offers the lowest BLB? PLS, S-IPS, etc.? Thanks for any help.


----------



## moonshine6456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w35t*
> 
> SAME HERE!
> 
> Used to run 120Hz on my 780 and 970 not problem. Now with the 980ti I get buzzing lines across the screen. I had to turn it down to 100Hz to get them to go away, 110Hz still showed lines, less but still. This is a big deal as my primary game is CS:GO.


I just upgraded to the 980ti from a 980 and have the same problem

it's been 2 months since these post, has there been a fix for this? Would hate to have to buy a new monitor to get 120hz...


----------



## Feyla

Hi guys, I have a question. If I want to run 3 Qnix monitors, is it possible with 1 graphics card as they only have DVI and not HDMI? With some kinda adapters?

Or will I have to get multiple graphics cards.

Thanks


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonshine6456*
> 
> I just upgraded to the 980ti from a 980 and have the same problem
> 
> it's been 2 months since these post, has there been a fix for this? Would hate to have to buy a new monitor to get 120hz...


Each graphics card has a limited amount of data that it will stream. Think of memory controllers on Intel chips, some are strong, others are not. 120hz 1440p is a very demanding pixel clock. It sends as though your monitor can handle it, but your new card can't. You may want to try a new DVI cable, sometimes that helps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyla*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a question. If I want to run 3 Qnix monitors, is it possible with 1 graphics card as they only have DVI and not HDMI? With some kinda adapters?
> 
> Or will I have to get multiple graphics cards.
> 
> Thanks


No passive or active adapter works with overclocking. You may be able to use one or two adapters if you were willing to have your side screens run at 60hz.


----------



## moonshine6456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> Each graphics card has a limited amount of data that it will stream. Think of memory controllers on Intel chips, some are strong, others are not. 120hz 1440p is a very demanding pixel clock. It sends as though your monitor can handle it, but your new card can't. You may want to try a new DVI cable, sometimes that helps.
> No passive or active adapter works with overclocking. You may be able to use one or two adapters if you were willing to have your side screens run at 60hz.


Thanks, ordered a new cable that should be coming in tomorrow









If not, might have to look into the acer XB270HU maybe..


----------



## jacquesvk34

I'm a new OC member and joined the 1440p club today.

Got myself the Qnix QX2710 Perfect Pixel True10 Multi LED...overclocked it to 130Hz, seemed stable until the screen randomly goes completely black for a second...so I lowered it to 120Hz and it's running perfectly. Using an EVGA GTX980Ti Superclocked graphics card.

I installed the monitor driver and overclocked the refresh rate using Nvidia Control Panel.

I had the BenQ XL2720Z and wasn't sure if I was going to like this Qnix...I really appreciated the 144Hz and 1ms response time on that BenQ monitor. But running a 980Ti in 1080p seemed like a waste...which is why I decided to try the Qnix.

I'm on day 1...still deciding if I like this monitor.


----------



## Skye12977

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I curious of anyone else has had problem out of their power bricks for their monitors.
I had recently purchased three of the Qnix monitors from a family member and I'm starting to have some heat issues with one of the bricks, come to find out he had one of the bricks fail on him and had to get another. I'm not sure if the new one (or one of the old ones) is going out now.



Has anyone else had problem with their Power Bricks? and if so is it just the cables/brick (bad design...etc) or monitor (too much draw for the bricks to handle) itself doing this?


----------



## ImJJames

Love my X-Star! Been playing with it for the past 2 days running on 110hz without any issues. I can run it on 120hz without any issues but 110hz makes me feel more comfortable.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacquesvk34*
> 
> I'm a new OC member and joined the 1440p club today.
> 
> Got myself the Qnix QX2710 Perfect Pixel True10 Multi LED...overclocked it to 130Hz, seemed stable until the screen randomly goes completely black for a second...so I lowered it to 120Hz and it's running perfectly. Using an EVGA GTX980Ti Superclocked graphics card.
> 
> I installed the monitor driver and overclocked the refresh rate using Nvidia Control Panel.
> 
> I had the BenQ XL2720Z and wasn't sure if I was going to like this Qnix...I really appreciated the 144Hz and 1ms response time on that BenQ monitor. But running a 980Ti in 1080p seemed like a waste...which is why I decided to try the Qnix.
> 
> I'm on day 1...still deciding if I like this monitor.


I don't mean to bring you any bad news, but one of us is misinformed. As far as I know, the multi input monitors drop frames. They usually cap out at 85hz before they start dropping them. I suspect you're running 120hz but losing every other frame. Check blur busters to see if you are dropping frames. I would link but am on mobile, apologies.


----------



## jacquesvk34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> I don't mean to bring you any bad news, but one of us is misinformed. As far as I know, the multi input monitors drop frames. They usually cap out at 85hz before they start dropping them. I suspect you're running 120hz but losing every other frame. Check blur busters to see if you are dropping frames. I would link but am on mobile, apologies.


If you can help me with a link that would be nice...

I had a look at blur busters but cant find anything to help me check if I'm dropping frames.

Thanks


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacquesvk34*
> 
> If you can help me with a link that would be nice...
> 
> I had a look at blur busters but cant find anything to help me check if I'm dropping frames.
> 
> Thanks


Here you go.

http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping


----------



## jacquesvk34

Well, it seems I am dropping frames...but coming from an SA950 and XL2720Z monitor I could see the "120Hz" refresh rate didnt look as it should...even though NVCP says it is.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacquesvk34*
> 
> Well, it seems I am dropping frames...but coming from an SA950 and XL2720Z monitor I could see the "120Hz" refresh rate didnt look as it should...even though NVCP says it is.


I would try backing it to 75-85hz and see if you can run that. It would be better than the stock 60hz if you can get it. The qnix is a pretty good panel for 1440p despite its flaws!


----------



## jacquesvk34

I managed to get the monitor to 95Hz without frame skipping...96hz is where it starts skipping frames...


----------



## Feyla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> Each graphics card has a limited amount of data that it will stream. Think of memory controllers on Intel chips, some are strong, others are not. 120hz 1440p is a very demanding pixel clock. It sends as though your monitor can handle it, but your new card can't. You may want to try a new DVI cable, sometimes that helps.
> No passive or active adapter works with overclocking. You may be able to use one or two adapters if you were willing to have your side screens run at 60hz.


Ah ok thanks for letting me know, SLI/crossfire it is :3


----------



## blackdragonbird

Hi,

I'm trying to create a custom resolution bigger than 2560x1440 in my DP2710, but any resolution bigger than this don't apply, no matter what refresh rate, 101, 60, 30hz. This monitors are not able to downsample? Or am I missing something?

Actually using it at 101hz, Win10 Pro x64, Geforce 355.80.

Thanks. =)


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacquesvk34*
> 
> I managed to get the monitor to 95Hz without frame skipping...96hz is where it starts skipping frames...


That's by far the best I've heard of from a multi







congrats! My single input only does 100


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacquesvk34*
> 
> I managed to get the monitor to 95Hz without frame skipping...96hz is where it starts skipping frames...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> That's by far the best I've heard of from a multi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> congrats! My single input only does 100
Click to expand...

A QX2710 muti-input True10 @95Hz "Without Dropping Frames" would be a new High and the 1st of it's Kind!
If you want to provide the proof I'll update/edit the OP True10 link *HERE* ...








In any case congrats, glad your enjoying your new monitor ... Overclocked 1440p IPS/PLS @ 2-$300 is still the best monitor deal out there


----------



## Zaber123

Just started investigating this option today. Looking to buy a good monitor for casual gaming and will be upgrading to a 970 soon. The FAQ says the following:

"Q: Is the multi-input model of these monitors good for gaming?
A: No. They have "two frames of input lag" and thus are very bad for gaming."

Does that still hold true for the Mulit variant of the QNIX? They are the only QNIX models green-sum has right now.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaber123*
> 
> Just started investigating this option today. Looking to buy a good monitor for casual gaming and will be upgrading to a 970 soon. The FAQ says the following:
> 
> "Q: Is the multi-input model of these monitors good for gaming?
> A: No. They have "two frames of input lag" and thus are very bad for gaming."
> 
> Does that still hold true for the Mulit variant of the QNIX? They are the only QNIX models green-sum has right now.


Multi-input and "Multi" model are the same thing. The one you want is the DVI only for the best overclocking and latency.


----------



## doco

my qnix 2710 single dvi dual link input has started to do a blinking on and off in the past week. it occurs randomly and stops anytime. it's not during any specific tasks. it doesn't matter if im at 60hz, 96hz, or 120hz. i've always had it at 60hz and only bumped it to 120hz when playing games. i've been using this monitor for about 2 years now. anyone have an idea? is it a heat related problem? im in cali and it is HOT here atm and my room is not well ventilated.

i got lucky and actually managed to record the problem


----------



## tatmMRKIV

what are the nvidia timings for 120hz? OCN doesn't expand the spoilers for me...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> my qnix 2710 single dvi dual link input has started to do a blinking on and off in the past week. it occurs randomly and stops anytime. it's not during any specific tasks. it doesn't matter if im at 60hz, 96hz, or 120hz. i've always had it at 60hz and only bumped it to 120hz when playing games. i've been using this monitor for about 2 years now. anyone have an idea? is it a heat related problem? im in cali and it is HOT here atm and my room is not well ventilated.
> 
> i got lucky and actually managed to record the problem


Double check all your connections/cables are tight ... AND check your power brick, if it is HOT to the touch, I'd shut everything down until you can replace it with one like this ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-5A-60W-100-240-V-DC-Power-Supply-Adapter-For-LED-Strip-5050-3528-RGB-Gift-/221224244276?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item3381fe1434

or this ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa

If you can't get any picture at all it may be to late and you'll have to replace the PCB if you can find one









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tatmMRKIV*
> 
> what are the nvidia timings for 120hz? OCN doesn't expand the spoilers for me...


Check out the OC thread *HERE* ... or linked in my sig


----------



## tatmMRKIV

thanks


----------



## Orca871

Can anyone explain or show me a good guide for vesa mounting the qnix evolution II? I don't want to debezel it, just put it on the mount. I read some troubling things about most screws being too long, so being able to follow a guide about this would be extremely helpful.


----------



## Davayy

Gonna be hopefully picking up a QX2710 in the coming days. I've done a bit of reading, but I just wish to confirm with people that the listing I am looking at is the same as the majority of people here with its ability to OC beyond 85hz?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-PC-Monitor-/121114422949?hash=item1c32fb6ea5

Also is there a massive difference between matte and glossy?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davayy*
> 
> Gonna be hopefully picking up a QX2710 in the coming days. I've done a bit of reading, but I just wish to confirm with people that the listing I am looking at is the same as the majority of people here with its ability to OC beyond 85hz?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27inch-PC-Monitor-/121114422949?hash=item1c32fb6ea5
> 
> Also is there a massive difference between matte and glossy?


Yes, that's the version that can go past 85, it is single input only.


----------



## welly59

I have a qx2710led and my max overclock is 100Hz before I get artifacts. That sound about right to you lot?


----------



## Kond3P

Does anyone own a monitor like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-star-DP2414LED-Full-HD-Gaming-Monitor-24-144Hz-Multi-Port-/221843747908?hash=item33a6eaf444

It says on the page that it is 144hz _and_ it's overclockable. Could we potentionally get >144hz refresh rates?


----------



## Abadaman

I wonder if those matte Qnixes (not the SE (secondary edition ones, which have probably less QC) still use 02 panel(the one that changes gamma when OCed, but overall has more saturated colors). Would be great if someone answers as i am thinking of buying one regular matte qnix today.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kond3P*
> 
> Does anyone own a monitor like this?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-star-DP2414LED-Full-HD-Gaming-Monitor-24-144Hz-Multi-Port-/221843747908?hash=item33a6eaf444
> 
> It says on the page that it is 144hz _and_ it's overclockable. Could we potentionally get >144hz refresh rates?


That is 1080P TN panel...


----------



## Abadaman

guys please do you know if the matte Qnixes(not SE one) still use the old 02 panel? from what i read nobody mentions that matte qnixes use new 07 panels as glossy qnix/xstar. Please someone help wanna buy one today but need to know this.


----------



## piee

yes 02 matte


----------



## duganator

Is it worth selling my shimian monitor to pick up a qnix that ocs to 110hz? I would only have to pay about 30 bucks out of pocket


----------



## THFourteen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orca871*
> 
> Can anyone explain or show me a good guide for vesa mounting the qnix evolution II? I don't want to debezel it, just put it on the mount. I read some troubling things about most screws being too long, so being able to follow a guide about this would be extremely helpful.


Heh, no guide but I have vesa mounted my QNIX. The screws are indeed too long but I just used them anyway, the monitor rattles around if you touch it but is stationary otherwise and isn't going to fall off. You could either find shorter screws or use washers to make it fit better, I have no time to go hunting at a hardware store unfortunately.

The annoying thing for me is I couldn't be bothered to remove the stem for the stand so it hangs down looking rubbish. You have to open up the monitor to do that.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> Is it worth selling my shimian monitor to pick up a qnix that ocs to 110hz? I would only have to pay about 30 bucks out of pocket


No brainer, do it! ... higher refresh rates are quite noticeable even on the desktop! You need a moderate amount of GPU horsepower to take "full" ad vantage (almost ignored your question cause you haven't listed sys stats, see sig







) ... Also make sure you check for PWM if your Shimian was PWM free and your effected by it I'd check the QNIX next just so you don't run into problems with eye fatigue


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> No brainer, do it! ... higher refresh rates are quite noticeable even on the desktop! You need a moderate amount of GPU horsepower to take "full" ad vantage (almost ignored your question cause you haven't listed sys stats, see sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) ... Also make sure you check for PWM if your Shimian was PWM free and your effected by it I'd check the QNIX next just so you don't run into problems with eye fatigue


Speaking of pwm, do you know of an application that will through software change brightness across multiple monitors?


----------



## duganator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> No brainer, do it! ... higher refresh rates are quite noticeable even on the desktop! You need a moderate amount of GPU horsepower to take "full" ad vantage (almost ignored your question cause you haven't listed sys stats, see sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) ... Also make sure you check for PWM if your Shimian was PWM free and your effected by it I'd check the QNIX next just so you don't run into problems with eye fatigue


now I just gotta convince the lady friend to let me do it


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Speaking of pwm, do you know of an application that will through software change brightness across multiple monitors?


In the past I found *



* app helpful for dimming my stats screen. Doesn't do it simultaneously but still has nice flexibility


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> In the past I found *
> 
> 
> 
> * app helpful for dimming my stats screen. Doesn't do it simultaneously but still has nice flexibility


Thank you, will definitely try that out.


----------



## Davayy

Just a word to UK buyers:
i'm in the process of getting my QX2710 (missed the first delivery - d'oh) but I received the import invoice from UPS. All together, came to £48 which was from $200 declared value plus £11 UPS handling fee *AND VAT APPLIED BY UK CUSTOMS OF £50 POSTAGE* because no shipping costs were supplied.
I queried this with UPS and they said that if no shipping cost is shown on the invoice (e.g free shipping) customs will estimate a shipping cost and then charge you VAT on that cost. For me, they estimated £50 worth of shipping.

It may be worth asking the sender to split the value to $180 value and $20 shipping which should have you covered, but I'm not sure.

HTH


----------



## popinjay

Anybody receive a monitor with a huge thick black line down the middle? My other QNIX works fine, and I've tested my own DVI-D cable that I use for my other QNIX (which works) and I've tested both DVI input to my GTX 970 so I know it's not the cable and it's not the video card. I've tried to start a refund process through ebay with accessorieswhole, but they are taking their sweet time with it!


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popinjay*
> 
> Anybody receive a monitor with a huge thick black line down the middle? My other QNIX works fine, and I've tested my own DVI-D cable that I use for my other QNIX (which works) and I've tested both DVI input to my GTX 970 so I know it's not the cable and it's not the video card. I've tried to start a refund process through ebay with accessorieswhole, but they are taking their sweet time with it!


Wait a week for them to reply for replacement and if not, make a case on PayPal or ebay itself


----------



## popinjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Wait a week for them to reply for replacement and if not, make a case on PayPal or ebay itself


Thanks, got a reply. They will be sending me a shipping label for return and refund/replacement, whichever I choose.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popinjay*
> 
> Thanks, got a reply. They will be sending me a shipping label for return and refund/replacement, whichever I choose.


Sorry you got a bad sample








Sometimes this happens. Are you going to try again, or refund and go with another option?


----------



## popinjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> Sorry you got a bad sample
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes this happens. Are you going to try again, or refund and go with another option?


I will be getting another one, just not sure which exact one yet. I have my original still (6 months now) which is a qnix matte single input dvi-d which I overclock. My GTX 970 does not have another dvi-d output so I don't think there is any point in getting another single input dvi-d since it wouldn't be used as a gaming monitor and I won't be able to overclock, nor could the GTX 970 really handle two overclocked 1440 monitors for any new games.

Any suggestions?


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popinjay*
> 
> I will be getting another one, just not sure which exact one yet. I have my original still (6 months now) which is a qnix matte single input dvi-d which I overclock. My GTX 970 does not have another dvi-d output so I don't think there is any point in getting another single input dvi-d since it wouldn't be used as a gaming monitor and I won't be able to overclock, nor could the GTX 970 really handle two overclocked 1440 monitors for any new games.
> 
> Any suggestions?


I have a 970 also, and even overclocked hard I can't see it pushing 1440 x 2 at any real detail. I suppose it depends what you'll be using the second monitor for, to figure out what is best for you. I have friends that are programmers, and they don't care about refresh rate , but like a lot of pixel real estate. Whereas I would prefer a high refresh rate, but I only real game on my desktop, so its a different scenario entirely. If you found an okay deal on a multi input you could always go with that, though I know the panels are indeed different, so if consistent colour reproduction is important to you (across more than one panel), then that might not be the best way to go.


----------



## THFourteen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popinjay*
> 
> Thanks, got a reply. They will be sending me a shipping label for return and refund/replacement, whichever I choose.


Sounds like bad luck, i'd go for a replacement maybe. Ask them to open and test it as good faith before they ship it perhaps?

Did you go for a perfect pixel model?


----------



## Abadaman

Allright so i asked accessorieswholesale about the PWM and panel used in Matte Qniq QX2710 an this is what i recieved:

First question:

please what is the difference between Qnix Matte and Qnix Matte SE Edition? Also, does the matte Qnix use older panel or the newer panel as the glossy qnix/xstar?(the one that can be overclocked without gamma change)? Does the matte qnix use PWM? Thank You! Peter

Answer:

accessorieswhole:

hi,
seems like matte version of Qnix use the panel ending with 02#.
panel ending with 02# indicates matte while 07# indicates the glossy one.

and yes, matte qnix uses PWM but now flicker free.
bypass-version does not support flicker free.

thanks

My answer and question:

Flicker free means that there is no PWM used, there are tests that multi input qnix models are advertised as flicker free, but use PWM, so are NOT flicker free. That is shady, if you know what i mean... The bypass version (without scaler) matte Qnix didnt use PWM (means it flickers) year ago, but tend to use PWM nowadays, from what people experienced. So Qnix 2710 matte does use PWM?(is not flicker free?) I want to know for sure from you if i order and buy it from you.

Answer:

New message from: accessorieswhole (22,976YellowShooting Star)
Hi, sorry for the late response.

all i hear from manufacturer is that matte qnix uses PWM but not flicker free.bypass-version does not support flicker free.
every monitor today has a subtle flicker that human are not able to detect. and it is called flicker free. that's what i heard and know.
so im not sure the flicker free means there is no PWM used. PWM is something like ability of electric power control.
when back light got lowered, electric power goes lower as well. that's different concept with flicker free. isn't it?
therefore, all i can give you answer is matte qnix uses PWM but not flicker free and bypass-version does not support flicker free.
(just like what i heard from manufacturer)

thanks

I know that this is known thing but wanted to make it clear to everyone. All the Matte Qnixes 2710 use panel ending with 02 (the one with punchy and saturated colors - which is indeed great for games and movies, makes everything just better looking.) All the glossy panels use panel ending with 07, which does not have that punchy and saturated colors as matte Qnix - i tested this by first hand as i had both, and let me tell you, get the matte one, the glossy one is washed out compared to matte with 02 panel. Both use low PWM, so if someone is sensitive to it, i would look somewhere else - then there is also the possibility of using the thing at max brightness which gives constant voltage and no PWM from what i know.

Here is the difference between matte with 02 panel and glossy with 07 panel:

Matte Qnix QX2710 (this applies also to SE version of matte Qnix, they are the same, just less QC):

http://cdn.overclock.net/f/f3/f3bfcef1_MatteL02.jpeg

Glossy Qnix/Xstar with 07 panel:

http://cdn.overclock.net/5/5e/5e280b2a_GlossyL07.jpeg

Thanks to N3RORE for pics









Matte Qnix with 02 also tends to overclock better, and with little luck you could get to 120hz with tightened timings with no problems where Glossy Qnix/Xstar with 07 panel starts to get weird lines etc at around 100hz(maybe a little higher). OCing the matte Qnix will need ICC profile to compensate the gamma change tho (which is no problem at all).

I would def choose Matte Qnix as of now if you want that display with punchy and saturated colors which will blow ur mind in games, Glossy Qnix/Xstar is not worth it compared to Matte Qnix, even if it gives you better clarity from pure gloss, it just has panel 07 which sucks.

Then theres the last thing that needs to be considered, they both use low PWM frequency... if not for that PWM, matte qnix would be still number one korean 1440p panel, i just dont get it, why those dumbasses use PWM when manufacturing these things, probably money savings, maybe not...

Anyway wanted to share my experiences with Qnixes and Xstars as it is with them nowadays


----------



## BadRobot

edit: Cool. Thanks @Abadaman


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BadRobot*
> 
> Can you guys post pics of the pwm blur test from 60cm (24 in) distance with aperture of 1/25? I want to compare the results from the Crossover 2795 I got.
> 
> Excuse the terribly low resolution on some of them. The app that lets me change aperture limits the resolution severely.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


The test is suppossed to be an optical test (with ur eyes), i tested the ufo blur test on one of my displays which uses pwm at lower than 100percent brightness, and the phone cam captures the lines on lower brightness(when PWM kicks in) and on max brightness(when theres no PWM)... you should observe with your eyes.

Open up http://testufo.com/#test=blurtrail , put the brightness to max, there should be one single blurred line going on, observe with your eyes, now press multiple times the - button to lower the brightness (half from max for example), and observe the ufo test line again, are there more lines or single one?

The easiest and best test for this from my experience is to open up white page on http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php?p=2 press f11 open up phone cam, point it at the screen on max brightness vs half brightness, if it flickers, like lines going up and down, it uses PWM, if it stays clear, maybe a shimmer like effect, then it doesnt use PWM. Qnix Matte QX2710 uses PWM for sure, had one from accessorieswholesale, Qnix/Xstar Glossy also uses PWM, and use different panels with washed out colors compared to matte qnix with 02 panel vs the 07 panel in the glossy ones. Matte Qnix was not that bad PWM wise from my experience, maybe it was the matte filter, or higher PWM(?) compared to the glossy Xstar with 07 panel, which induced bad strobing from PWM and my head was going to explode just by watching the damn display for more than 30minutes...


----------



## popinjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THFourteen*
> 
> Sounds like bad luck, i'd go for a replacement maybe. Ask them to open and test it as good faith before they ship it perhaps?
> 
> Did you go for a perfect pixel model?


That's an option as well. I did not get the pixel perfect one because the same model that I ordered 6 months ago was not pixel perfect and has no dead pixels and everything I've read says not to bother with the pixel perfect models. I honestly believe they either did not check this particular monitor or it got damages in shipping because there is no way they would send a monitor with a huge black line down the middle like that. It's just ending up costing them return shipping


----------



## becritical

I went through a good part of this huge thread and used the search but I am still not clear on whether the x-star DP2710 single input can work AT 55hz NO OVERCLOCKING with a hdmi-dvi cable (or with a hdmi-hdmi cable with hdmi-dual dvi adapter), or if it needs an active adapter, or if it doesn't work at all with this solution.
I am interested in the matte version, so the SE is to avoid? Is the first edition flicker-free (no PWM)? thanks
The seller told me it was bought on ebay and the on June 2013, and the title was [Perfect Pixel] FREE EXPRESS X-STAR DP2710 LED 27" 2560x1440 Samsung PLS"Matt" .


----------



## Girn

Hi there guys, my QX2710 is arriving this week.

*Is everyone here using the "color sustainer" application or am I fine with just loading the .icc profile's in windows directly?*

It's my understanding that when loading up games, it reverts back to default color's or whatever the game wants it to be set at.. But with the color sustainer app, that no longer applies?

Btw im on windows 10.


----------



## Abadaman

Matte Qnix 2710 and Matte Qnix 2710 SE are the same thing, SE just means it has less quality control, so it could have more dead pixels etc... id pick the non SE version if it costs only few dollars more


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Girn*
> 
> Hi there guys, my QX2710 is arriving this week.
> 
> *Is everyone here using the "color sustainer" application or am I fine with just loading the .icc profile's in windows directly?*
> 
> It's my understanding that when loading up games, it reverts back to default color's or whatever the game wants it to be set at.. But with the color sustainer app, that no longer applies?
> 
> Btw im on windows 10.


I use color sustainer but to be honest I have no idea if its even working or not. But I know its loaded...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Here is the difference between matte with 02 panel and glossy with 07 panel:
> 
> Matte Qnix QX2710 (this applies also to SE version of matte Qnix, they are the same, just less QC):
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/f/f3/f3bfcef1_MatteL02.jpeg
> 
> Glossy Qnix/Xstar with 07 panel:
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/5/5e/5e280b2a_GlossyL07.jpeg
> 
> I would def choose Matte Qnix as of now if you want that display with punchy and saturated colors which will blow ur mind in games, Glossy Qnix/Xstar is not worth it compared to Matte Qnix, even if it gives you better clarity from pure gloss, it just has panel 07 which sucks.
> 
> Then theres the last thing that needs to be considered, they both use low PWM frequency... if not for that PWM, matte qnix would be still number one korean 1440p panel, i just dont get it, why those dumbasses use PWM when manufacturing these things, probably money savings, maybe not...
> 
> Anyway wanted to share my experiences with Qnixes and Xstars as it is with them nowadays


+R for sharing!









But if you don't suffer from PWM, maybe we should "Resurrect" from years earlier in this thread, the "buy the cheaper (at the time) Matte model and just remove the AG coating!"

All the benefits of the L02 panel BUT without the god-awful AG coating!









Pics courtesy of LunaP! QNIX matte L02


Qnix Matte coating











Join the "True Glossy Aficionados" club


----------



## jrcbandit

I have an X-star and now it wont turn on anymore. Anything I can do to fix the problem cheaply or is it a lost cause?


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> +R for sharing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you don't suffer from PWM, maybe we should "Resurrect" from years earlier in this thread, the "buy the cheaper (at the time) Matte model and just remove the AG coating!"
> 
> All the benefits of the L02 panel BUT without the god-awful AG coating!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics courtesy of LunaP! QNIX matte L02
> 
> 
> Qnix Matte coating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Join the "True Glossy Aficionados" club


Yup this method is also great for those who can control their light during their day or use it mostly in the evening, id stick to matte as it is not that hard coating as other models, this matte in qnix 2710 is something between matte and gloss, thus semi-gloss/semi-matte?







Id really like to talk to the engineers @ Qnix if they have any and ask em why the hell do they use PWM? I mean is it THAT expensive to use flicker free tech without PWM?


----------



## becritical

I am confused, was PWM always used or only in models produced after a certain date?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becritical*
> 
> *I am confused*, was PWM always used or only in models produced after a certain date?


Unfortunately you and hundreds/thousands? of others









PWM diming with the QX2710/PLS single-input has always been a lottery from the very beginning. No rhyme or reason to it, we even tried to distinguish which was which with model and PCB numbers, no luck.









@Abadaman ... QNIX engineers will pay attention when they see how much their sales are falling off due to the PWM free Crossover 2795 ... This thread (OCN) made QNIX popular, famous AND RICH! ... AND this thread can and will just as easily crush their sales if they don't wise up and pay attention


----------



## becritical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Unfortunately you and hundreds/thousands? of others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM diming with the QX2710/PLS single-input has always been a lottery from the very beginning. No rhyme or reason to it, we even tried to distinguish which was which with model and PCB numbers, no luck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Abadaman ... QNIX engineers will pay attention when they see how much their sales are falling off due to the PWM free Crossover 2795 ... This thread (OCN) made QNIX popular, famous AND RICH! ... AND this thread can and will just as easily crush their sales if they don't wise up and pay attention


what confuses me is that this http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15158-x-star-dp2710-review-glossy-overclock-able-2560x1440-pls.html#post1246926 mentions that both glossy and matte are PMW free. So that's not the case because there are many different panels?


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becritical*
> 
> I am confused, was PWM always used or only in models produced after a certain date?


PWM was not used in the first batches of matte/glossy Qnixes/Xstar, i think from certain date they started producing em with PWM ( it even may have something to do with the change of the logo, most of Qnixes casing with an eye logo were PWM free, all the Qnixes from certain date changed the eye logo to window logo, if i remember thats when people started to notice PWM dimming, but this is not prooved and may be just my fantasy







). Also Glossy Qnixes/Xstars now use different panels ending with 07 which just are not as vibrant, punchy and just better color wise, they are a bit washed out compared to Matte Qnixes QX2710, which still use that beautiful 02 panel, tho they all use PWM nowadays.

**** you Qnix for saving every penny and not caring about your customers when it comes to PWM. PWM may not have an effect on you, but it certainly had on me, beware that they use really low PWM frequency, something around 140hz if i remember correctly, maybe lower? As this may not sound that ,,bad'', if you have sensitive organism, your body will feel it. For example my head started to hurt after 20-30minutes while using
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Unfortunately you and hundreds/thousands? of others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM diming with the QX2710/PLS single-input has always been a lottery from the very beginning. No rhyme or reason to it, we even tried to distinguish which was which with model and PCB numbers, no luck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Abadaman ... QNIX engineers will pay attention when they see how much their sales are falling off due to the PWM free Crossover 2795 ... This thread (OCN) made QNIX popular, famous AND RICH! ... AND this thread can and will just as easily crush their sales if they don't wise up and pay attention


Yup my friend, i am aware that this thread made em money, someone really needs to show this to them, maybe someone could contact accessorieswholesale, dream-seller-, greensum (maybe they work for the same company?...) and tell em whats the problem and that people will buy their products much more if they are PWM free, maybe then they would listen.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becritical*
> 
> what confuses me is that this http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/15158-x-star-dp2710-review-glossy-overclock-able-2560x1440-pls.html#post1246926 mentions that both glossy and matte are PMW free. So that's not the case because there are many different panels?


His review is a bit older, a lot changed from then,Glossy Xstars/Qnixes now use 07 panel which has washed out colors compared to matte, but from what i know theres almost zero chance to get PWM free glossy and even matte,maybe TomcatV could help here if matte qnixes still are lottery (i mean if you could get PWM free, if theres a chance at least)


----------



## SeanEboy

So, here's a bit of a silly question.... I've already got a trifire 290x setup at home, but I'm drawing a blank here for work. I love my Qnix at home so much, that I just ordered another round for work. However, my Optiplex 390 is leaving quite a bit to be required, if not desired.... This thing has a 300 watt PSU, and my only options are as follows: Nvidia NVS 510, or the GTX 745. However, would these cards even push my (3) 1440p monitors to the full resolution? I'm not gaming, nor doing any graphical, so I don't care about any lag, or anything like that as it won't come into play using Excel, etc. And, if you're wondering why I went with these monitors - they're still $650 cheaper (A PIECE) than the comparable Dell counterpart.

I guess my question becomes.. If they're going to hit me up for $170 for this mediocre card, perhaps I'm better off just throwing $900 at a new work computer...? What is the 'least' amount of video card I should have for these Qnix, maybe an R9 270? That is, if I'm going to go for another machine over upgrading this one. Supposedly I read somewhere that the PSU in this Optiplex is ATX size, so could I simply upgrade the PSU, and the card? I'd imagine most of this machine is proprietary weird parts... ?


----------



## SeanEboy

Someone helped me out immensely by finding another alternative... The GT 730 GDDR5. It's only about $65 as well from what I'm finding, and doesn't consume more than 50 watts. Perfect for adding more monitors while still being cost effective on Optiplex machines.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> His review is a bit older, a lot changed from then,Glossy Xstars/Qnixes now use 07 panel which has washed out colors compared to matte, but from what i know theres almost zero chance to get PWM free glossy and even matte,maybe TomcatV could help here if matte qnixes still are lottery (i mean if you could get PWM free, if theres a chance at least)


+R ... your pretty right on here ... only chance to really get PWM free is from old stock and we don't have a reliable way to distinguish old from new with model #'s ... only through hands on PWM tests









If you have, or even think you have PWM concerns just go buy the Crossover 2795 *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeanEboy*
> 
> Someone helped me out immensely by finding another alternative... The GT 730 GDDR5. It's only about $65 as well from what I'm finding, and doesn't consume more than 50 watts. Perfect for adding more monitors while still being cost effective on Optiplex machines.


+R ... thanks for sharing







You might also add if your using the single-input in your office or the multi-input True10 which could be a better choice for connectivity reasons


----------



## BadRobot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> +R ... your pretty right on here ... only chance to really get PWM free is from old stock and we don't have a reliable way to distinguish old from new with model #'s ... only through hands on PWM tests
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have, or even think you have PWM concerns just go buy the Crossover 2795 *HERE* ...
> +R ... thanks for sharing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might also add if your using the single-input in your office or the multi-input True10 which could be a better choice for connectivity reasons


For reference, the Crossover 2795QHD uses the LM270WQ1 SLC1 panel. Used too by the Dell U2713HM in May 2013.


----------



## SeanEboy

Question... I ended up going for a GTX 960 ACX 2.0 4GB... It's got dvi, hdmi, and then displayports (3). Is there a preferred way to connect these? I.e. I bought a couple displayport to HDMI adapters, but why do I feel like DVI is better...? Maybe because I'm thinking of my setup at home and overclocking?

It's so frustrating to have spent so much time on this for my home build.. only to have to re-research on *** I'm doing....lol.

This is strictly for office usage, so would the wires even matter? I just don't want to lose any quality by using HDMI over DVI or something.

So, to sum up....:

What is the optimal way to setup triple qnix on a card with (1) dvi-i, (1) HDMI, and (3) displayport? Also, I'd imagine Monoprice for the cables?


----------



## batmanwcm

A Glossy Qnix 2710 for $199. Is that a good deal?

Link


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> A Glossy Qnix 2710 for $199. Is that a good deal?
> 
> Link


If you like glossy yes. It's single input and supposedly ships from within the USA???

Overclockability is always a crap shoot though


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> If you like glossy yes. It's single input and supposedly ships from within the USA???
> 
> Overclockability is always a crap shoot though


Yeah, I like glossy panels so I bought it. I had recently bought some ebay gift cards for 8% off and used it on this monitor so it was essentially $184 for me. I've had some bad luck with Korean monitors in the past (2x Wasabi Mango UHD 420's & 1 Crossover 404k) in regards to dead pixels so I'm already expecting to see some on this monitor. This is a temporary replacement until the Asus 3800R releases.


----------



## becritical

Can someone please tell me if this http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362628914?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true has PWM or not? And if it has a semi-glossy or matte? I need this only for text so don't need OC. And it has HDMI so no issue with my laptop.
thanks!


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becritical*
> 
> Can someone please tell me if this http://www.ebay.com/itm/121362628914?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true has PWM or not? And if it has a semi-glossy or matte? I need this only for text so don't need OC. And it has HDMI so no issue with my laptop.
> thanks!


That one uses ahva semi matte/glossy panel which is similar to ips/pls color wise, monitor is multi input so input lag will be higher vs single input, also it uses low pwm frequency, which can cause health issues on lower brightness if u are sensitive. This is not the single input that can be oced and is with pls panel, so beware if u want to oc, this will skip frames


----------



## becritical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> That one uses ahva semi matte/glossy panel which is similar to ips/pls color wise, monitor is multi input so input lag will be higher vs single input, also it uses low pwm frequency, which can cause health issues on lower brightness if u are sensitive. This is not the single input that can be oced and is with pls panel, so beware if u want to oc, this will skip frames


thanks! I don't need OC so I am mostly worried about the PWM frequency, so this is confirmed to use a low frequency at low brightness settings?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becritical*
> 
> thanks! I don't need OC so I am mostly worried about the PWM frequency, so this is confirmed to use a low frequency at low brightness settings?


Not really a good monitor overall. Even if it didnt have PWM I wouldnt touch it. Poor contrast ratio, mediocre to poor blacks despite being a VA panel.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Not really a good monitor overall. Even if it didnt have PWM I wouldnt touch it. Poor contrast ratio, mediocre to poor blacks despite being a VA panel.
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm


I am sure it uses PWM, you can check it in this review, for example, buy crossover 2795 its semi gloss ahips 1440p overclockable to 110hz without color loss, or you can get one of the matte qnixes that were pwm free could oc to 120hz and had samsung PLS panel which reproduces abit more punchy, saturated colors than other ips panels thanks to its slightly larger color gamut


----------



## masonse

Hello everyone, I decided to join the club and get a qnix qx2710. I got it on sale for $240 so I was quite pleased. I plugged it in, turned on my computer and the monitor worked; or so I thought. After the post screen, the monitor just shuts off and the led turns from blue to flashing red. The good news is that it works in safe mode but I'm stumped from there. I have tried different cables, switching slots, and changing drivers. If anyone has a clue on what to do, I'd be much obliged.


----------



## sinnedone

Are you using the motherboards onboard graphics? If so make sure the resolution is supported.


----------



## masonse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Are you using the motherboards onboard graphics? If so make sure the resolution is supported.


Its plugged into my gpu, I have a 970.


----------



## masonse

To update on the situation with my monitor, I managed to get it to work by completely removing the driver for my 970. it reverted to Microsofts basic display driver. This isn't really an option since i can't game like this or enjoy the high resolution. Any time I try getting it to work with nvidia display drivers, it will not work. This is really driving me crazy.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonse*
> 
> To update on the situation with my monitor, I managed to get it to work by completely removing the driver for my 970. it reverted to Microsofts basic display driver. This isn't really an option since i can't game like this or enjoy the high resolution. Any time I try getting it to work with nvidia display drivers, it will not work. This is really driving me crazy.


Sounds like a problem somewhere in your os.


----------



## masonse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> Sounds like a problem somewhere in your os.


So what should I do? Do a clean install of Windows 10? I'm stumped


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonse*
> 
> So what should I do? Do a clean install of Windows 10? I'm stumped


Did you have any other graphics cards installed before from amd? Were you using onboard graphics?

If you had either of those drivers installed I was say to use a program called DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) to remove all your graphics cards drivers including your current drivers. Then reinstall the latest nvidia drivers and see if that does anything.

If you have a spare drive to install windows on to test that might be an option as well before you try and reformat with a new install.

OH you could also try playing with bios settings like disabling onboard graphics or setting pci graphics as priority etc.


----------



## masonse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Did you have any other graphics cards installed before from amd? Were you using onboard graphics?
> 
> If you had either of those drivers installed I was say to use a program called DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) to remove all your graphics cards drivers including your current drivers. Then reinstall the latest nvidia drivers and see if that does anything.
> 
> If you have a spare drive to install windows on to test that might be an option as well before you try and reformat with a new install.
> 
> OH you could also try playing with bios settings like disabling onboard graphics or setting pci graphics as priority etc.


Yeah i never had an amd card, and from the beginning of this build, I've always used my gpu. Funny thing about reinstalling the latest nvidia drivers. When I uninstalled them, my monitor would be able to view the desktop but as soon as i would reinstall, on the spot it would go black. Tried this with DDU just in case too. Also, disabling onboard didn't do anything. I wish I had an extra hard drive so I wouldn't have to wing it. Is it best I do a pure install (removing personal files) or does it not matter?


----------



## bijan588

Are these still worth it?

bought a matte xstar in 2013 and its still going strong, but my acer monitor died and im looking to replace it with somthing cheap.

Looking at this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Glossy-/330932579690?hash=item4d0d1e6d6a


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bijan588*
> 
> Are these still worth it?
> 
> bought a matte xstar in 2013 and its still going strong, but my acer monitor died and im looking to replace it with somthing cheap.
> 
> Looking at this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Glossy-/330932579690?hash=item4d0d1e6d6a


Beware that they nowaday use different pls panels, ending with number 07 which produce washed out colors compared to 02 pls, also they use very low pwm. Id stick to matte qnix as they still use 02 panel which produce more saturated colors and overclocks better, but also use pwm. If pwm is an issue id stick to matte crossover 2795qhd as it is pwm free and should produce similair colors to ur old qnix and matte qnix(tho qnix will be 15-20percent more saturated and punchy color wise as the panel has larger color gamut)


----------



## MrSkim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Beware that they nowaday use different pls panels, ending with number 07 which produce washed out colors compared to 02 pls, also they use very low pwm. Id stick to matte qnix as they still use 02 panel which produce more saturated colors and overclocks better, but also use pwm.


How do you even find the Panel Numbers?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSkim*
> 
> How do you even find the Panel Numbers?


You have to open them up to see.


----------



## Kold

Is that 07 panel used in any mainstream monitors?


----------



## Blackjack90001

Hey,

I have a Qnix 2710 with the following issue.
as soon as I move the power cable slightly away from the monitor it turns off same with the HDMI cable.






has anyone ran into the same problem. If yes how did you fix it? Did it get worse over time?
Right now I am using duct tape. I want a permanent solution though.

thx for the help.


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Beware that they nowaday use different pls panels, ending with number 07 which produce washed out colors compared to 02 pls, also they use very low pwm. Id stick to matte qnix as they still use 02 panel which produce more saturated colors and overclocks better, but also use pwm. If pwm is an issue id stick to matte crossover 2795qhd as it is pwm free and should produce similair colors to ur old qnix and matte qnix(tho qnix will be 15-20percent more saturated and punchy color wise as the panel has larger color gamut)


Wait do the panels in this listing have the 07's?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Glossy-/330932579690?hash=item4d0d1e6d6a

I have been watching the Korean monitor trend and been eyeing the glossy Single input variant XStar DP2710 for a while now so basically they are they no longer worth getting?Is the 02 panel exclusive to the Matte QNIX or are they also produced with the glossy variant? If so i would just invest my money into that monitor or maybe even one of the True10 monitors if it can OC to at least 90hz.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> Wait do the panels in this listing have the 07's?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Glossy-/330932579690?hash=item4d0d1e6d6a
> 
> I have been watching the Korean monitor trend and been eyeing the glossy Single input variant XStar DP2710 for a while now so basically they are they no longer worth getting?Is the 02 panel exclusive to the Matte QNIX or are they also produced with the glossy variant? If so i would just invest my money into that monitor or maybe even one of the True10 monitors if it can OC to at least 90hz.


Yeah that glossy xstar will be 07, stick to single input as it has no input lag and can oc for sure. Matte qnixes should have 02 panel still, but they have pwm, so if thats an issue go get crossover 2795, dont think about other monitors cause they wont oc without frame skipping


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Yeah that glossy xstar will be 07, stick to single input as it has no input lag and can oc for sure. Matte qnixes should have 02 panel still, but they have pwm, so if thats an issue go get crossover 2795, dont think about other monitors cause they wont oc without frame skipping


Thanks for the help! You saved from a very regretful purchase! I guess its settled, im gonna get the QNIX Matte Single! I seen the SE version for $260 and the non SE for $270 on ebay from accessorieswhole.Wondering if the latter will not have any pixel issues considering the only differences between is the QC process ,if so i will get that one.


----------



## AnimeNY

BTW does anyone here have an original QNIX/ X star Monitor Glossy with the LTM270DL02 PLS panel for sale? Please let me know if you do. After watching this i plan on hunting down a glossy L02 panel.


----------



## masonse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonse*
> 
> Yeah i never had an amd card, and from the beginning of this build, I've always used my gpu. Funny thing about reinstalling the latest nvidia drivers. When I uninstalled them, my monitor would be able to view the desktop but as soon as i would reinstall, on the spot it would go black. Tried this with DDU just in case too. Also, disabling onboard didn't do anything. I wish I had an extra hard drive so I wouldn't have to wing it. Is it best I do a pure install (removing personal files) or does it not matter?


To update on my situation, I reinstalled windows 10 and even tried windows 8, Still no luck. I'm beginning to think that there may actually be something wrong with the monitor and not with my setup. Especially since I have a really common pc build with a fresh installation of Windows and drivers. Should I just return it and cut my losses?


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> Thanks for the help! You saved from a very regretful purchase! I guess its settled, im gonna get the QNIX Matte Single! I seen the SE version for $260 and the non SE for $270 on ebay from accessorieswhole.Wondering if the latter will not have any pixel issues considering the only differences between is the QC process ,if so i will get that one.


SE means just less quality control so there may be one or two dead pixels, its the same as qnix 2710matte


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> SE means just less quality control so there may be one or two dead pixels, its the same as qnix 2710matte


I see in that case do the original Non Second Edition Glossy QNIX have the 02 panel? I ask because i heard the earlier QNIX and Xstars were identical and Xstars glossy had them so i would assume the original QNIX also had them please correct me if i am wrong here.

Speaking of that i messaged a ebay user about a local pick up deal for the xstar glossy for $200 and told me the date of manufacture for his was June 2014.Is there a specific date that we can keep track of to detect which models have the 02 and 07 or we can only find out through opening?


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> I see in that case do the original Non Second Edition Glossy QNIX have the 02 panel? I ask because i heard the earlier QNIX and Xstars were identical and Xstars glossy had them so i would assume the original QNIX also had them please correct me if i am wrong here.
> 
> Speaking of that i messaged a ebay user about a local pick up deal for the xstar glossy for $200 and told me the date of manufacture for his was June 2014.Is there a specific date that we can keep track of to detect which models have the 02 and 07 or we can only find out through opening?


Uhm, well, i dont understand, someone who isnt me is high as **** @[email protected]

But... i am sure All glossy Qnixes and Xstars nowadays come with 07 panel. Know few ppl that was in the same situation as me, had one glossy 07 xstar, two matte 02, yamakasi 2b 120hz and few other namebrands as eizo EV2736WFS, Benq BL2710PT, Benq3200pt and few others to test color wise eizo and both matte qnixes just looked damn great, as they have the same PLS panel, everything else was sub color wise, yea and i have crossover 2795 on the way also. Guys trust me, Matte qnix is the way to go if u dont care about PWM, the colors are just better thanks to the PLS panel, i ordered older Qnix matte with the eye symbol instead if window before Qnix logo, one of the first batches so wonder how will it look color wise and also if it is pwm free or not. If pwm is issue then crossover 2795 is the way to go, the matte is not that hard as it is semi glossy/matte so everything stays pretty clear to the eye and no reflections as on the glossy ones during day - you can use matte with open windows if its sunny and it will look ok without reflections during gaming darker games. This on the glossy one was pan in the ass for me...

So what do you think anyway? Am i high?


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Uhm, well, i dont understand, someone who isnt me is high as **** @[email protected]
> 
> But... i am sure All glossy Qnixes and Xstars nowadays come with 07 panel. Know few ppl that was in the same situation as me, had one glossy 07 xstar, two matte 02, yamakasi 2b 120hz and few other namebrands as eizo EV2736WFS, Benq BL2710PT, Benq3200pt and few others to test color wise eizo and both matte qnixes just looked damn great, as they have the same PLS panel, everything else was sub color wise, yea and i have crossover 2795 on the way also. Guys trust me, Matte qnix is the way to go if u dont care about PWM, the colors are just better thanks to the PLS panel, i ordered older Qnix matte with the eye symbol instead if window before Qnix logo, one of the first batches so wonder how will it look color wise and also if it is pwm free or not. If pwm is issue then crossover 2795 is the way to go, the matte is not that hard as it is semi glossy/matte so everything stays pretty clear to the eye and no reflections as on the glossy ones during day - you can use matte with open windows if its sunny and it will look ok without reflections during gaming darker games. This on the glossy one was pan in the ass for me...
> 
> So what do you think anyway? Am i high?


Lol nah your not high i just wanted to clarify those two points.I was confused because i assumed all of the Non Second Edition QNIX Glossy had the 02 panels while it seems its only the matte that has them.

That and i was hoping that the Xstar glossy that i found that was manufactured in June 2014 would also be an L02


----------



## noobzilla

I bought a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II Glossy last week for $200 from ebay (dream-seller). I just wanted a 96+ hz IPS as an upgrade to both my 27" IPS 60hz and Asus VG248QE 144hz 24" 1080p TN. My IPS stopped working so I got the Asus to replace it, by buying a new adapter two years later revived my IPS. IPS looks pretty but would always miss the 144hz from the Asus, but finally bit again on a korean panel.

Extremely lucky today! I started reading about the L02 and L07 panel before my purchase. Decided to go for it anyways thinking I'd likely get the L07, but not a big deal since I'm paying cheap for it. After removing the front bezel to remove the stand I noticed the metal screen bezel has ...02 engraved on it. Checked the back sticker to be sure and it is indeed a L02 panel!! Overclocks to 120hz easy and didn't see any problem using the camera test. Just one dead pixel on the lower left-ish area.


----------



## batmanwcm

Awesome to hear Noobzilla. I also ordered the same Qnix glossy and will be receiving it tomorrow.


----------



## masonse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonse*
> 
> To update on my situation, I reinstalled windows 10 and even tried windows 8, Still no luck. I'm beginning to think that there may actually be something wrong with the monitor and not with my setup. Especially since I have a really common pc build with a fresh installation of Windows and drivers. Should I just return it and cut my losses?


I think I may have found the issue with my monitor. I never noticed that in Nvidia control panel, the monitor is recognized as being connected through Vga despite it clearly being DVI. I'm not sure how significant it is but I'm grasping at straws here. Could it be that something is wrong with my DVI port? Could the monitor be transmitting incorrect edid info? Why the hell is it coming out analog? And why does it magically work without nvidia drivers? I have quite a few questions now. I don't know how to change edid information so that it appears as DVI nor am I sure that it is even possible or the problem. The seller said they would ship me a new board, I'm just afraid that if it doesn't work, it's a problem with my gpu. I'd be happy accept any advice anyone has, thanks


----------



## AnimeNY

Hey guys i need your help with this one , should a QNIX2710 Glossy with a date of manufacture during October 25 2013 have a LTM270DL02 panel? I have a seller with this model for sale and hes not comfortable opening it. Anyone have any guesses?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> Hey guys i need your help with this one , should a QNIX2710 Glossy with a date of manufacture during October 25 2013 have a LTM270DL02 panel? I have a seller with this model for sale and hes not comfortable opening it. Anyone have any guesses?


Yes, its one of the original batches, should be the 02.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> Awesome to hear Noobzilla. I also ordered the same Qnix glossy and will be receiving it tomorrow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobzilla*
> 
> I bought a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II Glossy last week for $200 from ebay (dream-seller). I just wanted a 96+ hz IPS as an upgrade to both my 27" IPS 60hz and Asus VG248QE 144hz 24" 1080p TN. My IPS stopped working so I got the Asus to replace it, by buying a new adapter two years later revived my IPS. IPS looks pretty but would always miss the 144hz from the Asus, but finally bit again on a korean panel.
> 
> Extremely lucky today! I started reading about the L02 and L07 panel before my purchase. Decided to go for it anyways thinking I'd likely get the L07, but not a big deal since I'm paying cheap for it. After removing the front bezel to remove the stand I noticed the metal screen bezel has ...02 engraved on it. Checked the back sticker to be sure and it is indeed a L02 panel!! Overclocks to 120hz easy and didn't see any problem using the camera test. Just one dead pixel on the lower left-ish area.


Thats great to hear, tho i still think its a pretty lottery and wouldnt deductively think that all of em are 02 cause probably they arent :-|. Let us know batman how it goes with ur one. Anyway even if its 07 for the price its great and 1440p will trump any 1080p


----------



## infernox

Hello ,

I have had a Glossy 2710 Qnix since this thread started. I have never been able to get it to overclock past 96hz without slight artifacting. Would getting a monoprice 24awg cable benefit me in overclocking the monitor further. I'm playing CS GO more and more and would like 120hz monitor but without a TN Panel as they just dont look anywhere near as good as my Qnix.

Any Thoughts?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infernox*
> 
> Hello ,
> 
> I have had a Glossy 2710 Qnix since this thread started. I have never been able to get it to overclock past 96hz without slight artifacting. Would getting a monoprice 24awg cable benefit me in overclocking the monitor further. I'm playing CS GO more and more and would like 120hz monitor but without a TN Panel as they just dont look anywhere near as good as my Qnix.
> 
> Any Thoughts?


You may have to play with the timings. Best to check here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Thats great to hear, tho i still think its a pretty lottery and wouldnt deductively think that all of em are 02 cause probably they arent :-|. Let us know batman how it goes with ur one. Anyway even if its 07 for the price its great and 1440p will trump any 1080p


I just opened it up and opened the housing. Confirmed 02 panel with a build date of 08/11/2015.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I just opened it up and opened the housing. Confirmed 02 panel with a build date of 08/11/2015.


Of course the big question.. is it a one off? If all glossy Qnix are 02 now, I would certainly get one. Will wait a few weeks and see more buyer comments.


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Of course the big question.. is it a one off? If all glossy Qnix are 02 now, I would certainly get one. Will wait a few weeks and see more buyer comments.


I wouldn't call myself lucky as I have 1 dead pixel and 1 stuck pixel so this is going back. What sucks is that this monitor actually overclocked to 120Hz without frameskipping which is absolutely amazing.


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I wouldn't call myself lucky as I have 1 dead pixel and 1 stuck pixel so this is going back. What sucks is that this monitor actually overclocked to 120Hz without frameskipping which is absolutely amazing.


There's so many variables now to take into account you sure you don't want to keep that one?Glossy with 02's are practically gold now and I mean you have to take into account these coin flips.

02 panel or 07 (Or even Possibly an 06) , PWM or none , possibly even more defective pixels or less, Higher framerate overclock vs lower.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I wouldn't call myself lucky as I have 1 dead pixel and 1 stuck pixel so this is going back. What sucks is that this monitor actually overclocked to 120Hz without frameskipping which is absolutely amazing.


If thats the only thing I would keep it. What if your next panel has backlight bleed or other issues? Or OC's to 96 only? I would accept a dead pixel or two if all other aspects of the panel are fine. In fact I would prefer a couple dead pixels over BL bleed or uniformity issues.

P.S. Remember, these are not A+ grade panels. A 'pixel perfect' panel that did not make the grade could mean there are other issues involved.


----------



## batmanwcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> There's so many variables now to take into account you sure you don't want to keep that one?Glossy with 02's are practically gold now and I mean you have to take into account these coin flips.
> 
> 02 panel or 07 (Or even Possibly an 06) , PWM or none , possibly even more defective pixels or less, Higher framerate overclock vs lower.


I'm not sure if I hit the lottery there. I absolutely despise stuck pixels and I will always gravitate toward toward that pixel no matter what I do. As for the 02 panel, I definitely notice the gamma shift after overclocking to 120Hz so I downloaded the 120Hz color icc profile and it fixed the gamma to my liking which was nice. If you are looking for a 02 glossy panel, I would buy one now.


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I'm not sure if I hit the lottery there. I absolutely despise stuck pixels and I will always gravitate toward toward that pixel no matter what I do. As for the 02 panel, I definitely notice the gamma shift after overclocking to 120Hz so I downloaded the 120Hz color icc profile and it fixed the gamma to my liking which was nice. If you are looking for a 02 glossy panel, I would buy one now.


I got another seller with an original 2013 QNIX glossy with an 02 panel for sale. I'm just trying to finalize my decision whether i should get it or not.

I messaged dreamseller about this and he doesn't seem to be sure and implies that the panel we will receive is entirely random. Im not much of gambler unless i have stats on my side , especially at $200 plus.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> I got another seller with an original 2013 QNIX glossy with an 02 panel for sale. I'm just trying to finalize my decision whether i should get it or not.
> 
> I messaged dreamseller about this and he doesn't seem to be sure and implies that the panel we will receive is entirely random. Im not much of gambler unless i have stats on my side , especially at $200 plus.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> If thats the only thing I would keep it. What if your next panel has backlight bleed or other issues? Or OC's to 96 only? I would accept a dead pixel or two if all other aspects of the panel are fine. In fact I would prefer a couple dead pixels over BL bleed or uniformity issues.
> 
> P.S. Remember, these are not A+ grade panels. A 'pixel perfect' panel that did not make the grade could mean there are other issues involved.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I wouldn't call myself lucky as I have 1 dead pixel and 1 stuck pixel so this is going back. What sucks is that this monitor actually overclocked to 120Hz without frameskipping which is absolutely amazing.


Maybe guys at Qnix figured out that 07 isnt selling as good as 02 so they just switched to 02 panels? Dunno, but probably they just wanna make cash as everybody else, so it all revolves around this in the first place. :-D


----------



## Nano5656

Man, I for one time in my life jumped on the XStar glossy for $200(because I had 5x ebay bucks to make it 180) without coming to get caught up and read the current happenings on these korean monitors since I last read about them in early 2014, only to realize I've made a big mistake and should have gone for the Qnix matte version. I wanted to try a glossy monitor since I never had one. The pictures of the color saturation make me kind of sad. Hoping the PWM doesn't cause issues either since I plan to look at the thing all day for work. I'll report back but man I wish returning these things was easier. This is what I get for not checking OCN first.


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> Man, I for one time in my life jumped on the XStar glossy for $200(because I had 5x ebay bucks to make it 180) without coming to get caught up and read the current happenings on these korean monitors since I last read about them in early 2014, only to realize I've made a big mistake and should have gone for the Qnix matte version. I wanted to try a glossy monitor since I never had one. The pictures of the color saturation make me kind of sad. Hoping the PWM doesn't cause issues either since I plan to look at the thing all day for work. I'll report back but man I wish returning these things was easier. This is what I get for not checking OCN first.


Here's something so you wont feel as bad , according to some even the new glossy's have the original 02 panel the only difference now is that there are more coin flips to be had.

02 or 07 panel (Also 06)
High overclock vs low overclock
PWM or none
Dead pixels or none

The only way to be certain with these monitors is to buy one straight up used or if you enjoy gambling ebay is fine.


----------



## Quisp

Hello all-

I thought I'd give an update regarding my X-Star purchases from 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21860#post_23169288

After about one year of ownership and usage, my 3 X-Stars are still working just fine.
All monitors are powered up 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.
No issues to report.
I'm still a happy camper...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I just opened it up and opened the housing. Confirmed 02 panel with a build date of 08/11/2015.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I wouldn't call myself lucky as I have 1 dead pixel and 1 stuck pixel so this is going back. What sucks is that this monitor actually overclocked to 120Hz without frameskipping which is absolutely amazing.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I'm not sure if I hit the lottery there. I absolutely despise stuck pixels and I will always gravitate toward toward that pixel no matter what I do. As for the 02 panel, I definitely notice the gamma shift after overclocking to 120Hz so I downloaded the 120Hz color icc profile and it fixed the gamma to my liking which was nice. If you are looking for a 02 glossy panel, I would buy one now.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> If thats the only thing I would keep it. What if your next panel has backlight bleed or other issues? Or OC's to 96 only? I would accept a dead pixel or two if all other aspects of the panel are fine. In fact I would prefer a couple dead pixels over BL bleed or uniformity issues.
> 
> P.S. Remember, these are not A+ grade panels. A 'pixel perfect' panel that did not make the grade could mean there are other issues involved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Hmmm some interesting developments lately! ... I agree w/blued +R ... I'd keep it! At the very least I'd turn around and sell it, likely for more than you paid for it! Did you try to "massage" the pixels? Mine originally had 2 stuck pixels and they both were fixed with a little determination.

1) You answered a key question for me that you had a gamma shift while overclocking! --> L02 for sure!
2) Is it PWM free?
3) Are you sure it's a true glossy and not a tempered glass over matte/glossy? Like this Crossover *HERE* ... or years ago in this thread









If the answer to all three above is Yes ... grab'm while you can!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> Man, I for one time in my life jumped on the XStar glossy for $200(because I had 5x ebay bucks to make it 180) without coming to get caught up and read the current happenings on these korean monitors since I last read about them in early 2014, only to realize I've made a big mistake and should have gone for the Qnix matte version. I wanted to try a glossy monitor since I never had one. The pictures of the color saturation make me kind of sad. Hoping the PWM doesn't cause issues either since I plan to look at the thing all day for work. I'll report back but man I wish returning these things was easier. This is what I get for not checking OCN first.


Don't feel bad ... by sheer luck/timing you may hit the Jackpot like Batman above!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quisp*
> 
> Hello all-
> 
> I thought I'd give an update regarding my X-Star purchases from 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21860#post_23169288
> 
> After about one year of ownership and usage, my 3 X-Stars are still working just fine.
> All monitors are powered up 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.
> No issues to report.
> I'm still a happy camper...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for reporting back. Awesome setup you have there.


----------



## Nano5656

Haha thanks for that. That does make me feel better. I don't mind the gamble. I just thought my choice effectively guaranteed a inferior monitor. Hopefully I get lucky. We'll see when it gets here in a few days and I'll report back.

Just out of curiousity how hard is it to return these monitors typically?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> Haha thanks for that. That does make me feel better. I don't mind the gamble. I just thought my choice effectively guaranteed a inferior monitor. Hopefully I get lucky. We'll see when it gets here in a few days and I'll report back.
> 
> Just out of curiousity how hard is it to return these monitors typically?


If anything you can sell yours and buy batmans.


----------



## batmanwcm

I'll check for PWM when I get it home. I had to back down the OC to 115hz as I was getting a slight artifact when watching videos. What's odd is that on the upper left hand corner of the frame, 2720LED is printed so I guess they are reusing old housings? I'm going to try and massage the dead pixels to see if there are any changes.

Judging from the response that I got from Dream Seller, I'm not expecting the return process to go smoothly. If I were you guys, I would buy future monitors from green-sum as I've gotten 2 different monitors from him and he definitely has great customer service and a phone number to call.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I'm not sure if I hit the lottery there. I absolutely despise stuck pixels and I will always gravitate toward toward that pixel no matter what I do. As for the 02 panel, I definitely notice the gamma shift after overclocking to 120Hz so I downloaded the 120Hz color icc profile and it fixed the gamma to my liking which was nice. If you are looking for a 02 glossy panel, I would buy one now.


Try to run a pixel repair utility. Might fix it.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *batmanwcm*
> 
> I'll check for PWM when I get it home. I had to back down the OC to 115hz as I was getting a slight artifact when watching videos. What's odd is that on the upper left hand corner of the frame, 2720LED is printed so I guess they are reusing old housings? I'm going to try and massage the dead pixels to see if there are any changes.
> 
> Judging from the response that I got from Dream Seller, I'm not expecting the return process to go smoothly. If I were you guys, I would buy future monitors from green-sum as I've gotten 2 different monitors from him and he definitely has great customer service and a phone number to call.


After trying numerous 1440p panels i advise you to keep the thing if its only two dead pixels, once i had 27" 1440p eizo for 640euros with dead pixel in the middle of the screen, i mean, the quality control of name brands like sammy, lg, benq etc nowadays is almost the same compared to these qnixes and there just isnt a perfect monitor. You have something some people would pay double tripe the price.


----------



## andyd1

This may be a dumb question - do you guys think using the korean plug + power adapter is safe? I used the monitor for two years with no prob. I'm thinking of giving the monitor sister who is far less technical and just a little concerned that leaving it on or something may not be a good idea


----------



## wompwomp

Is my GTX 460 1GB capable of overclocking my QX2710?


----------



## kuruptx

Well I bought this one off newegg yesterday...QNIX QX2710 Glossy.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419

hopefully the colors are amazing, I wanted Glossy, didn't know the matte version had better color...


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyd1*
> 
> This may be a dumb question - do you guys think using the korean plug + power adapter is safe? I used the monitor for two years with no prob. I'm thinking of giving the monitor sister who is far less technical and just a little concerned that leaving it on or something may not be a good idea


Yes it's safe but almost all of us have found and use an extra US 3-prong power (PSU etc) cable lying around somewhere like the one below ...



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp*
> 
> Is my GTX 460 1GB capable of overclocking my QX2710?


Yes it will work but you will need the ToastyX patcher for Nvidia series 4xx/5xx ... see the OC guide *HERE*







...
But a 460GTX, great card in it's day, will really struggle to drive 1440p for anything other than basic desktop apps ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuruptx*
> 
> Well I bought this one off newegg yesterday...QNIX QX2710 Glossy.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419
> 
> hopefully the colors are amazing, I wanted Glossy, didn't know the matte version had better color...


IMHO ... cancel the order (newegg makes it easier these days if it hasn't shipped?) and buy from dream-seller HERE ... you'll save $80 and possibly like Newbzilla & Batman, get the superior glossy L02 panel with better PQ than the matte! It's not guaranteed but $200 for a "Golden" L02 Glossy AYFKM







.... We still need more feedback from Newbzilla/Batman!







, maybe PM him? ... see these recent posts *HERE* and *HERE* ...









PS ... looks like dream-seller sold out







... BUT green-sum has one @$209 *HERE* and they basically get the same stock, and if it also has the superior L02 you just hit the "Lottery!" ... and they will sell out very quickly also!


----------



## kuruptx

Sadly I can't it's already been shipped, regardless, I hope the picture is beautiful as I am very excited and love glossy screens, I play in a really dark room aswell so hopefully won't be an issue.


----------



## wompwomp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> IMHO ... cancel the order (newegg makes it easier these days if it hasn't shipped?) and buy from dream-seller HERE ... you'll save $80 and possibly like Newbzilla & Batman, get the superior glossy L02 panel with better PQ than the matte! It's not guaranteed but $200 for a "Golden" L02 Glossy AYFKM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... We still need more feedback from Newbzilla/Batman!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , maybe PM him? ... see these recent posts *HERE* and *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS ... looks like dream-seller sold out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... BUT green-sum has one @$209 *HERE* and they basically get the same stock, and if it also has the superior L02 you just hit the "Lottery!" ... and they will sell out very quickly also!


I just got my 'glossy' monitor from dream-seller a few days ago. How does one go about determining if I got the L02 panel or not?


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp*
> 
> I just got my 'glossy' monitor from dream-seller a few days ago. How does one go about determining if I got the L02 panel or not?


Only way to ensure 100% which one you have is to open up the casing, there is a label with the panel type behind the actual screen.QNIX and X stars use 3 known types of samsung panels.

1. LTM270DL02 (The original panel with the beautiful colors, without this these monitors wouldn't be anywhere near as popular as they are now)
2. LTM270DL06 ( The same as 02 but from i hear it is entirely "Glow free" very rare panel its like trying to find a shiny pokemon!
3.LTM270DL07 ( the newer panel used in modern Glossy Xstar's/Qnix's a bit less saturated a little washed out compared to the original , there are some ICC profiles that assist it heavily though.)

Another way was to determine the date of manufacture for your panel.All of the 2013 and early 2014 used the 02 and 06 panel.Although like tom mentioned, it seems like even the recently produced ones still have the 02 panel.So Nowadays in 2015 its a mix between all 3 panel there's more coin flips to play now which is not exciting to hear in this already complicated lottery,and

My own personal last method if you don't want to open up the monitor itself you can overclock test the monitor it you notice a decrease in gamma and colors become much more darker than it is likely that is an 02.If colors remain the same than it is likely that is is an 07.I wish i knew more about the 06 but that one's really hard to find.

Hope this helped!


----------



## claustro

Hi all, thank you for this great thred.
Can someone suggest me if this monitor ( QNIX QX2710 LED 27") can be run by my video card ati Radeon HD 6950?.
Is tha ati capable of run games at this resolution?
I am not planning to buy anpother card before the next year.

Also can I run 2 monitor using this one?
Thank you


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp*
> 
> I just got my 'glossy' monitor from dream-seller a few days ago. How does one go about determining if I got the L02 panel or not?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> Only way to ensure 100% which one you have is to open up the casing, there is a label with the panel type behind the actual screen.QNIX and X stars use 3 known types of samsung panels.
> 
> 1. LTM270DL02 (The original panel with the beautiful colors, without this these monitors wouldn't be anywhere near as popular as they are now)
> 2. LTM270DL06 ( The same as 02 but from i hear it is entirely "Glow free" very rare panel its like trying to find a shiny pokemon!
> 3.LTM270DL07 ( the newer panel used in modern Glossy Xstar's/Qnix's a bit less saturated a little washed out compared to the original , there are some ICC profiles that assist it heavily though.)
> 
> Another way was to determine the date of manufacture for your panel.All of the 2013 and early 2014 used the 02 and 06 panel.Although like tom mentioned, it seems like even the recently produced ones still have the 02 panel.So Nowadays in 2015 its a mix between all 3 panel there's more coin flips to play now which is not exciting to hear in this already complicated lottery,and
> 
> My own personal last method if you don't want to open up the monitor itself you can overclock test the monitor it you notice a decrease in gamma and colors become much more darker than it is likely that is an 02.If colors remain the same than it is likely that is is an 07.I wish i knew more about the 06 but that one's really hard to find.
> 
> Hope this helped!
Click to expand...

AnimeNY ... very good reply, quick learner! +R








Only correction is overclocking with the L02 technically increases gamma, 96Hz - 120Hz proportionally "diming" the panel overall as you say, counter intuitive I know, but your reply was so right on had to perfect it Lol









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claustro*
> 
> Hi all, thank you for this great thred.
> Can someone suggest me if this monitor ( QNIX QX2710 LED 27") can be run by my video card ati Radeon HD 6950?.
> Is tha ati capable of run games at this resolution?
> I am not planning to buy anpother card before the next year.
> 
> Also can I run 2 monitor using this one?
> Thank you


Depends on the games? It will struggle @1440p with newer titles, you will have to turn down several settings but should still get by









If your card looks like the one below you should be able to run 2 of them, but maybe not both of them overclocked?
Make sure to read the OP (1st page) and check out the OC thread link in my sig











Hope than helps get you started









*EDIT: Where is the Feedback for new glossy L02's (PWM etc) from Newbzilla & Batman???*








I'm now getting PM's if I know anything more?


----------



## AnimeNY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> AnimeNY ... very good reply, quick learner! +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only correction is overclocking with the L02 technically increases gamma, 96Hz - 120Hz proportionally "diming" the panel overall as you say, counter intuitive I know, but your reply was so right on had to perfect it Lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the games? It will struggle @1440p with newer titles, you will have to turn down several settings but should still get by
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your card looks like the one below you should be able to run 2 of them, but maybe not both of them overclocked?
> Make sure to read the OP (1st page) and check out the OC thread link in my sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope than helps get you started
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT: Where is the Feedback for new glossy L02's (PWM etc) from Newbzilla & Batman???*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm now getting PM's if I know anything more?


Thanks tom i took your advice and decided to do some research i appreciate how you helped me and i wanted to be able to help others as effectively as you did!

Today i will make my decision if i should get this monitor or not, anyone have any words of encouragement?lol


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimeNY*
> 
> Thanks tom i took your advice and decided to do some research i appreciate how you helped me and i wanted to be able to help others as effectively as you did!
> 
> Today i will make my decision if i should get this monitor or not, anyone have any words of encouragement?lol


I bought a matte used off ebay for $300. No dead pixels. Some minor backlight bleed but not noticeable under normal use. (And I'm anal about that stuff) panel hits 96hz. My friend bought a matte new on ebay. His is no dead pixel and has even less bleed. His hits 110hz with tightened timings. We love our panels. My only gripe is the PWM dimming at low brightness is pretty bad. You can remedy this by using the monitor at full brightess and dropping brightness via software though.

So two good experiences for me. Worth every penny if you can drive it.


----------



## batmanwcm

Sorry, I just shipped the monitor back and forgot to comment about PWM. Yes, my example had PWM although it didn't affect me. If your interested in this model with the 02 panel, try buying from green-sum instead as it'll be easier to return.

I pretty much argued with dream-seller back and forth and he refused to allow me to return until I pointed out that the monitor on the upper left hand corner was labeled 2720LED and that eBay will side with me if I involved them. Overall, I would not recommend dream-seller since he will try and weasel his way out of taking back a defective monitor. I had pretty significant backlight bleed at the lower right hand corner and I just couldn't stand it anymore.


----------



## kuruptx

I'm just keeping the model I ordered from newegg, hopefully the picture is beautiful, I don't do overclocking on monitors I want 60 refresh rate and beautiful colors









I will try out the ICC profile for it aswell.


----------



## norcrawler

just wondering if anyone can help me out with an issue im having, i have a qnix 2710. ive had it overclocked to 96hz for quite some time. currently running dual monitors, with a crappy acer 19" as my second. ive noticed when i switch over a video or live stream to the acer, my 96hz drops to 60. in the profile it still says 96 obviously but its clearly not. i can instantly tell when it drops. ive searched around for a fix but cant find much info on it.
thanks


----------



## wompwomp

At what risk is there when opening up the monitor? I'd like to remove the stand and paint the bezel as well. I think someone noted a while back that he opened up his monitor and upon reassembly and turning the device back on, he noticed a new dead pixel surfaced.


----------



## Bodega Bay

Hello to all and my first post. I have stumbled upon this (very informative) place and these monitors look very attractive for the price.
I have read the first page and would appreciate some further detail.

1. Can someone point me to a respectable and trustworthy ebay seller which carries the appropriate model.
2. Is it still the norm to avoid models with multiple inputs and so called true 10bit panels?
3. Bring to my attention anything else that I must take into consideration.

Thank you.


----------



## eyedrop

I have a Qnix 2710 Multi True10 matte from green-sum on the way. My current monitor is a low-end 19" Acer LCD from 2007. I do not play games at all. But *absolutely* needed multiple input options (including display port), so I chose the "undesirable" multi input model. I bought the monitor simply because I wanted my photos and movies to have nice accurate colors, and wanted a better web browsing experience. Ive heard people say the single input Samsung PLS panel is far superior in color accuracy and image quality. Exactly how much of a difference is it? Will I still be treated to a good looking monitor for the money? I was about to buy the Dell UltraSharp U2415 for $300 but couldn't resist the $220 price tag and far superior resolution of the Qnix QX2710 Multi. Did I make the right decision?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eyedrop*
> 
> I have a Qnix 2710 Multi True10 matte from green-sum on the way. My current monitor is a low-end 19" Acer LCD from 2007. I do not play games at all. But *absolutely* needed multiple input options (including display port), so I chose the "undesirable" multi input model. I bought the monitor simply because I wanted my photos and movies to have nice accurate colors, and wanted a better web browsing experience. Ive heard people say the single input Samsung PLS panel is far superior in color accuracy and image quality. Exactly how much of a difference is it? Will I still be treated to a good looking monitor for the money? I was about to buy the Dell UltraSharp U2415 for $300 but couldn't resist the $220 price tag and far superior resolution of the Qnix QX2710 Multi. Did I make the right decision?


For your usage, and since you need multi-input, and for that price, looks like a logical choice.


----------



## norcrawler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> just wondering if anyone can help me out with an issue im having, i have a qnix 2710. ive had it overclocked to 96hz for quite some time. currently running dual monitors, with a crappy acer 19" as my second. ive noticed when i switch over a video or live stream to the acer, my 96hz drops to 60. in the profile it still says 96 obviously but its clearly not. i can instantly tell when it drops. ive searched around for a fix but cant find much info on it.
> thanks


bump. can anyone help me out here


----------



## r9miner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> bump. can anyone help me out here


I assume you're using AMD as I have had issues with refresh rate dropping back to 60 for no reason occasionally. Seemed to be resolved for me by setting refresh rate through Windows display properties instead of Catalyst Control Center.

If you're using Custom Res. Utility to set your OC timings you can also try deleting the original 60hz profile. It can't downclock if 96hz is the lowest profile available.


----------



## norcrawler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r9miner*
> 
> I assume you're using AMD as I have had issues with refresh rate dropping back to 60 for no reason occasionally. Seemed to be resolved for me by setting refresh rate through Windows display properties instead of Catalyst Control Center.
> 
> If you're using Custom Res. Utility to set your OC timings you can also try deleting the original 60hz profile. It can't downclock if 96hz is the lowest profile available.


nvidia. 780ti. and i just made a custom profile through nvidia control panel for the 96. deleting the 60 hz profile sounded like a good idea. i couldnt do it though. unless im missing something, it wont let me do it.


----------



## AnimeNY

Just received the used QNIX 2710 from an ebay seller. I have to say that i am very underwhelmed with the colors,they look bland almost no better than my asus vg248qe. I don't think this was an 07 model either because this was a QNIX with the old eye logo manufactured in 2013 before they used 07's.

Are ICC profiles mandatory in order for the monitor to look good?I might give it another chance after i buy a DVI cable otherwise i may return it.


----------



## masonse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonse*
> 
> I think I may have found the issue with my monitor. I never noticed that in Nvidia control panel, the monitor is recognized as being connected through Vga despite it clearly being DVI. I'm not sure how significant it is but I'm grasping at straws here. Could it be that something is wrong with my DVI port? Could the monitor be transmitting incorrect edid info? Why the hell is it coming out analog? And why does it magically work without nvidia drivers? I have quite a few questions now. I don't know how to change edid information so that it appears as DVI nor am I sure that it is even possible or the problem. The seller said they would ship me a new board, I'm just afraid that if it doesn't work, it's a problem with my gpu. I'd be happy accept any advice anyone has, thanks


I received the board from them and tried installing it. I think they actually sent me the wrong board, because a slot is missing and one of the connectors doesn't fit. Lol, this has been one of the worst decisions I have ever made. I'm going to send the monitor back and probably pay out the ass for a return. It's unfortunate I'm alone with this problem seeing as how no one could help me. I'm out of the club I guess in search of greener pastures, peace.


----------



## kuruptx

Mine is here and I love it, wow so much clarity, never going back to 1080p LOL.


----------



## hslayer

Hey guys,

will this one overclock at all? i read that new versions of qnix does not overclock so i just want to make sure before my purchase.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-MULTI-HOT-27-LED-2560x1440-HDMI-FPS-PC-Monitor-Matte-/400981771527?hash=item5d5c604507

thanks


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hslayer*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> will this one overclock at all? i read that new versions of qnix does not overclock so i just want to make sure before my purchase.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-MULTI-HOT-27-LED-2560x1440-HDMI-FPS-PC-Monitor-Matte-/400981771527?hash=item5d5c604507
> 
> thanks


Only single input DVD-DL Qnix overclocks. If it has HDMI, it does not.. or OC's very poorly with frame skipping.


----------



## fldd

As I'm sure a lot of you have noticed, the X-Star DP2710 Dual-DVI monitor features a broken EDID block.

This is my attempt to work around the issue on Debian 8 with Intel Graphics:

*The problem:*
You get messages in dmesg:

Code:



Code:


[   24.933420] [drm:drm_edid_block_valid [drm]] *ERROR* EDID checksum is invalid, remainder is 128
[   24.933434] Raw EDID:
[   24.933436]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.933438]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.933439]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.933450]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.933452]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.933453]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.933455]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.933456]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.973147] [drm:drm_edid_block_valid [drm]] *ERROR* EDID checksum is invalid, remainder is 128
[   24.973162] Raw EDID:
[   24.973163]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.973165]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.973167]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.973168]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.973170]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.973171]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.973173]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   24.973174]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.013132] [drm:drm_edid_block_valid [drm]] *ERROR* EDID checksum is invalid, remainder is 128
[   25.013135] Raw EDID:
[   25.013137]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.013149]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.013150]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.013152]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.013153]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.013155]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.013157]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.013158]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.053087] [drm:drm_edid_block_valid [drm]] *ERROR* EDID checksum is invalid, remainder is 128
[   25.053091] Raw EDID:
[   25.053093]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.053094]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.053106]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.053107]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.053109]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.053110]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.053112]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.053113]     ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff ff
[   25.053116] i915 0000:00:02.0: DP-1: Ignoring invalid EDID block 1.

This can cause all sorts of strangeness with Xorg and WMs.

So what's wrong?

Code:



Code:


# get-edid -i -b 6 | edid-decode 
6
This is read-edid version 3.0.1. Prepare for some fun.
Attempting to use i2c interface
No EDID on bus 0
No EDID on bus 1
No EDID on bus 2
No EDID on bus 3
No EDID on bus 4
2 potential busses found: 5 6
Only trying 6 as per your request.
128-byte EDID successfully retrieved from i2c bus 6
Looks like i2c was successful. Have a good day.
Extracted contents:
header:          00 ff ff ff ff ff ff 00
serial number:   23 2f 9b 04 00 00 00 00 28 15
version:         01 03
basic params:    a5 3c 22 78 22
chroma info:     6f b1 a7 55 4c 9e 25 0c 50 54
established:     00 00 00
standard:        01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01
descriptor 1:    56 5e 00 a0 a0 a0 29 50 30 20 35 00 55 50 21 00 00 1a
descriptor 2:    00 00 00 fc 00 44 55 41 4c 2d 44 56 49 0a 20 20 20 20
descriptor 3:    00 00 00 fc 00 0a 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20
descriptor 4:    00 00 00 fc 00 0a 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20
extensions:      01
checksum:        11

Manufacturer: HYO Model 49b Serial Number 0
Made week 40 of 2011
EDID version: 1.3
Digital display
DFP 1.x compatible TMDS
Maximum image size: 60 cm x 34 cm
Gamma: 2.20
DPMS levels: Off
Supported color formats: RGB 4:4:4
First detailed timing is preferred timing
Established timings supported:
Standard timings supported:
Detailed mode: Clock 241.500 MHz, 597 mm x 336 mm
               2560 2608 2640 2720 hborder 0
               1440 1443 1448 1481 vborder 0
               +hsync -vsync 
Monitor name: DUAL
Has 1 extension blocks
Checksum: 0x11 (valid)
EDID block does NOT conform to EDID 1.3!
        Digital display field contains garbage: 24
        Missing monitor ranges
        Detailed block string not properly terminated

I guess we aren't paying the people enough who are writing these









With the help of 'wxEDID' and a hex editor, I was able to produce this:

Code:



Code:


# edid-decode /lib/firmware/edid/xstar.bin
������#/�(�<"x"o��UL�%
                      PT��V^���)P0 5UP!▒�1Vq
      �DP2710
      ��Extracted contents:
header:          00 ff ff ff ff ff ff 00
serial number:   23 2f 9b 04 00 00 00 00 28 15
version:         01 03
basic params:    81 3c 22 78 22
chroma info:     6f b1 a7 55 4c 9e 25 0c 50 54
established:     00 00 00
standard:        81 c0 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01
descriptor 1:    56 5e 00 a0 a0 a0 29 50 30 20 35 00 55 50 21 00 00 1a
descriptor 2:    00 00 00 fd 00 31 56 1d 71 1e 00 0a 20 20 20 20 20 20
descriptor 3:    00 00 00 fc 00 44 50 32 37 31 30 0a 20 20 20 20 20 20
descriptor 4:    00 00 00 ff 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
extensions:      00
checksum:        a2

Manufacturer: HYO Model 49b Serial Number 0
Made week 40 of 2011
EDID version: 1.3
Digital display
DFP 1.x compatible TMDS
Maximum image size: 60 cm x 34 cm
Gamma: 2.20
DPMS levels: Off
Supported color formats: RGB 4:4:4
First detailed timing is preferred timing
Established timings supported:
Standard timings supported:
  [email protected]
Detailed mode: Clock 241.500 MHz, 597 mm x 336 mm
               2560 2608 2640 2720 hborder 0
               1440 1443 1448 1481 vborder 0
               +hsync -vsync 
Monitor ranges (GTF): 49-86Hz V, 29-113kHz H, max dotclock 300MHz
Monitor name: DP2710
Serial number: 
Checksum: 0xa2 (valid)
EDID block does NOT conform to EDID 1.3!
        Detailed block string not properly terminated

Now I realize 'edid-decode' still thinks there is something wrong, but I'm pretty sure thats a bug in edid-decode itself?

This is how I'm using it:

Code:



Code:


# hexdump -C /lib/firmware/edid/xstar.bin 
00000000  00 ff ff ff ff ff ff 00  23 2f 9b 04 00 00 00 00  |........#/......|
00000010  28 15 01 03 81 3c 22 78  22 6f b1 a7 55 4c 9e 25  |(....<"x"o..UL.%|
00000020  0c 50 54 00 00 00 81 c0  01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01  |.PT.............|
00000030  01 01 01 01 01 01 56 5e  00 a0 a0 a0 29 50 30 20  |......V^....)P0 |
00000040  35 00 55 50 21 00 00 1a  00 00 00 fd 00 31 56 1d  |5.UP!........1V.|
00000050  71 1e 00 0a 20 20 20 20  20 20 00 00 00 fc 00 44  |q...      .....D|
00000060  50 32 37 31 30 0a 20 20  20 20 20 20 00 00 00 ff  |P2710.      ....|
00000070  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 a2  |................|
00000080

# cat /etc/default/grub
GRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT="video=DP-1:2560x1440 drm_kms_helper.edid_firmware=DP-1:edid/xstar.bin

# cat /etc/initramfs-tools/hooks/edid 
#!/bin/sh

PREREQ=""

prereqs()
{
    echo "$PREREQ"
}

case $1 in
# get pre-requisites
prereqs)
    prereqs
    exit 0
    ;;
esac

. /usr/share/initramfs-tools/hook-functions

cp -r /lib/firmware/edid ${DESTDIR}/lib/firmware/

exit 0

In case you are wondering, why am I using DP-1 for a DL-DVI device. The Dell BizLink DP->DL-DVI-adapter.

Now it's working much nicer for me:

Code:



Code:


% xrandr; dmesg | tail -n 2
Screen 0: minimum 8 x 8, current 5120 x 1440, maximum 32767 x 32767
DP1 connected 2560x1440+2560+0 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 597mm x 336mm
   2560x1440     59.95*+
   1280x720      59.97  
HDMI1 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis)
HDMI2 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis)
HDMI3 connected primary 2560x1440+0+0 (normal left inverted right x axis y axis) 596mm x 335mm
   2560x1440     59.95* 
   1920x1200     59.95  
   1920x1080     60.00    50.00    59.94  
   1920x1080i    60.00    50.00    59.94  
   1600x1200     60.00  
   1680x1050     59.88  
   1280x1024     60.02  
   1440x900      59.90  
   1360x768      59.80  
   1280x800      59.91  
   1280x720     120.00   119.88    60.00    50.00    59.94  
   1024x768      60.00  
   832x624       74.55  
   800x600       60.32    56.25  
   720x576       50.00  
   720x576i      50.00  
   720x480       60.00    59.94  
   720x480i      60.00    59.94  
   640x480       60.00    59.94  
   720x400       70.08  
VGA1 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis)
VIRTUAL1 disconnected (normal left inverted right x axis y axis)
[441281.481476] platform DP-1: firmware: direct-loading firmware edid/xstar.bin
[441281.481494] [drm] Got external EDID base block and 0 extensions from "edid/xstar.bin" for connector "DP-1"

I'm thinking other people might find this useful as well. Enjoy.


----------



## rwong48

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *norcrawler*
> 
> just wondering if anyone can help me out with an issue im having, i have a qnix 2710. ive had it overclocked to 96hz for quite some time. currently running dual monitors, with a crappy acer 19" as my second. ive noticed when i switch over a video or live stream to the acer, my 96hz drops to 60. in the profile it still says 96 obviously but its clearly not. i can instantly tell when it drops. ive searched around for a fix but cant find much info on it.
> thanks


i've always had this problem, i hate it too.

if i move a simple browser window or something to the 60hz display, my qnix @ 110Hz stays at 110.
but once i move a video to the 60hz display, everything on the qnix slows down to 60 FPS. it's still 110Hz though.

i ended up just replacing it with a fast display... not the way that it should be, but i just did it.


----------



## Bodega Bay

Can someone attest to the sound quality of these monitors through the inbuilt speakers. I've read that it is terrible although I merely want sound good enough to listen to youtube or blogs.
Are these good enough for this purpose?


----------



## kuruptx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bodega Bay*
> 
> Can someone attest to the sound quality of these monitors through the inbuilt speakers. I've read that it is terrible although I merely want sound good enough to listen to youtube or blogs.
> Are these good enough for this purpose?


I wouldn't know I never use monitor speakers for sound, usually its horrible with no bass. I'm sure they are fine enough for the needs you posted though.


----------



## Iceshot

For those of you looking for a alternative to the hard to come by HP VESA monitor stand I've found a SOLID alternative! Got a Dell monitor stand and VESA conversion plate for around $30 shipped off Ebay ($15-20 Stand, $10 Vesa plate see Ebay links below). Works fantastic with full height, tilt, swivel, and portrait. Looks OEM, the stand matches the monitor near perfect (better than the photo's suggest).

*Dell Monitor stand: (all the same)
P2213f
P1913Sf
P2210f
P2212Hf
U2413f
U2713H*

*Stand dimensions*

Height (extended)
418.4 mm (16.47 inches)

Height (compressed)
372.3 mm (14.66 inches)

Width
314.8 mm (12.39 inches)

Depth
200.5 mm (7.89 inches)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-P2213f-LED-LCD-22-Monitor-Stand-P2213f-P1913Sf-P2210f-P2212Hf-/191699112055?hash=item2ca2285077

*Dell Vesa Plate: 0Y009C, Y009C*

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191688360743?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT









Note: Height adjustment of the monitor this last photo is roughly 70% to max

Hope this helps you guys looking for a quality inexpensive Vesa monitor mount.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quisp*
> 
> Hello all-
> 
> I thought I'd give an update regarding my X-Star purchases from 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21860#post_23169288
> 
> After about one year of ownership and usage, my 3 X-Stars are still working just fine.
> All monitors are powered up 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.
> No issues to report.
> I'm still a happy camper...


I have similar setup, can you please link me how you put the m all together in the air like that? I need that in my life OMG,


----------



## Quisp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> I have similar setup, can you please link me how you put the m all together in the air like that? I need that in my life OMG,


All three monitors are attached to a single free standing triple monitor stand that sits on top of my desk:

http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Monitor-Standing-Supports-002-0020/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416433229&sr=1-2&keywords=triple+monitor+stand&pebp=1416433227391

I have the monitors raised to the highest level on the stand (10" clearance from bottom of each monitor to desktop) resulting in lots of space underneath and providing my seated eye level, staring straight ahead, at the center of each monitor.


----------



## bluedevil

Anyone running DSR on the Qnix QX2710 and OC? Doesn't seem to be an option. Thinking I would rather have 1440P @ 120Hz than 4K @ 60Hz.


----------



## pLuhhmm

anyone know why my monitor is turning off, then back on? it kind of makes a sound like the speakers are turning on/off when it does it. doesn't have speakers (that i know of), so not sure what that sound is.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm*
> 
> anyone know why my monitor is turning off, then back on? it kind of makes a sound like the speakers are turning on/off when it does it. doesn't have speakers (that i know of), so not sure what that sound is.


check the buttons pcb. something might be shorting the power button.


----------



## Tim Drake

Could someone link me a good QNIX for overclocking with less ghosting etc etc for UK? Cheap as possible please!

All I know is that Single Input is the one you want but that's as far as I know!

Also, do these monitors have more problems than normal monitors? Do they break more often / sooner?


----------



## Firequake

Hi, i bought a used QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II but sadly one of the n-mofset burnt out, in particular the one that says 540n-3811g in the 0701 board location (see photo)

could someone please provide me information about it "datasheet" or a link to buy a replacement? thanks in advance.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firequake*
> 
> Hi, i bought a used QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II but sadly one of the n-mofset burnt out, in particular the one that says 540n-3811g in the 0701 board location (see photo)
> 
> could someone please provide me information about it "datasheet" or a link to buy a replacement? thanks in advance.


All I could find, hard to tell by your picture if it'll fit.

http://www.alliedelec.com/international-rectifier-irf540npbf/70016966/?mkwid=sfipoRzug&pcrid=30980760979&gclid=Cj0KEQjwqNiwBRDnq93MioaqtKQBEiQAb7Ezn9uFD9oRfIkOT1wzmNBuDuDXzyUdI95otFOUjjea68QaAsmw8P8HAQ


----------



## Firequake

Thank you! Here is a better picture if helps:


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firequake*
> 
> Thank you! Here is a better picture if helps:


Not sure it will work now. Found this though...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261830259084?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

Edit:
There is also this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTERNATIONAL-RECTIFIER-IRFR3410PBF-MOSFET-N-100V-31A-D-PAK-/391141726113?hash=item5b11dd17a1

I don't know the specs for the mofset you need though.


----------



## todd0012

I just bought the 980 TI and I want a monitor that will hold me over till i buy the Dell or Samsung Ultrawide.

QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS WQHD PC Monitor

Is this the QNIX monitor to buy for overclocking?


----------



## Firequake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Not sure it will work now. Found this though...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261830259084?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
> 
> Edit:
> There is also this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTERNATIONAL-RECTIFIER-IRFR3410PBF-MOSFET-N-100V-31A-D-PAK-/391141726113?hash=item5b11dd17a1
> 
> I don't know the specs for the mofset you need though.


Yep that's the point, i have no idea were to find the specs and my knowledge in electronics is basically zero... not to mention the hilarious story behind it


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todd0012*
> 
> I just bought the 980 TI and I want a monitor that will hold me over till i buy the Dell or Samsung Ultrawide.
> 
> QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll SE Matte 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS WQHD PC Monitor
> 
> Is this the QNIX monitor to buy for overclocking?


The single input version should be.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firequake*
> 
> Yep that's the point, i have no idea were to find the specs and my knowledge in electronics is basically zero... not to mention the hilarious story behind it


If it isn't working and you can de-solder/solder the mofset then I would go for it, they aren't really that expensive.


----------



## chris4355

Hello, I installed the crossover Monitor and my QNIX is now my secondary. Does anyone know how to delete the QNIX monitor driver? "27QHD" because the computer is now recognizing my crossover as the qnix.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris4355*
> 
> Hello, I installed the crossover Monitor and my QNIX is now my secondary. Does anyone know how to delete the QNIX monitor driver? "27QHD" because the computer is now recognizing my crossover as the qnix.


Just go into your device manager then expand monitor. Then right click on the qnix and click delete and tick remove software and click ok.


----------



## chris4355

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Just go into your device manager then expand monitor. Then right click on the qnix and click delete and tick remove software and click ok.


My bad, I should have been more descriptive. I did that already. It just says generic monitor. But in NVIDIA control panel it still shows it as the qnix monitor name. perhaps its an issue with Nvidia control panel and the driver is deleted though.


----------



## Phantatsy

Both of mine say "Generic PnP Monitor" and wont let me use the QNIX driver...


----------



## kapnobatai

Hi guys, I have a XStar DP2710 glossy for quite a while, very happy with it, but now I need a second monitor, for video editing purposes. As I see in dreamseller's ebay shop, the hdmi version of the DP2710 is having another type of panel, which is undesirable for my video editing purposes.
So, can you please recommend a version which has the same panel as mine but WITH HDMI? I don t need to overclock this one, I use only single monitor for gaming. I m using a MSI GTX970 gaming 4g.

Many Thanks!


----------



## awesomemcrad

Hey guys new here, so I've decided to take a risk! I ordered a QNIX QHD2410R DP QHD 24" 2560x1440, it's advertised as being able to oc without framedropping depending on the quality of your GPU, good thing I also have a GTX980 ti lined up next week, I think I may be one the first people to buy this monitor, I'll let you guys know how it goes once it comes in some time next week, and hopefully I may be able provide somebody else who has been looking for info on this particular monitor, and help them make an informed decision rather than taking a gamble like me!


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awesomemcrad*
> 
> Hey guys new here, so I've decided to take a risk! I ordered a QNIX QHD2410R DP QHD 24" 2560x1440, it's advertised as being able to oc without framedropping depending on the quality of your GPU, good thing I also have a GTX980 ti lined up next week, I think I may be one the first people to buy this monitor, I'll let you guys know how it goes once it comes in some time next week, and hopefully I may be able provide somebody else who has been looking for info on this particular monitor, and help them make an informed decision rather than taking a gamble like me!


Big mistake. For one, why would you go for a 24" when you can get a known, tried and tested 27" for not much more. Secondly, false advertising is a known problem with many of these korean models. Being a multi-input cheap unit, it will have very limited OC potential and most likely with frame skipping. Finally, with korean monitors you really do not want to be a first buyer of a new model. Wait until its been in circulation before pulling the trigger. Even if all good, it still remains a poor buy since a decent 27" unit can be found for not much more.


----------



## awesomemcrad

I got a shallow desk and limited real estate on it, I already have another 24 inch panel and will be using it in a dual monitor set up, not to mention I find the idea of a 126 ppi PLS display very appealing, I acknowledged that this would be a risk, I didn't feel like waiting for reports and decided to experiment for myself !


----------



## pLuhhmm

anyone know of a cheap power adapter replacement? really hope my 'turning off/on' issue is the power adapter.


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awesomemcrad*
> 
> I got a shallow desk and limited real estate on it, I already have another 24 inch panel and will be using it in a dual monitor set up, not to mention I find the idea of a 126 ppi PLS display very appealing, I acknowledged that this would be a risk, I didn't feel like waiting for reports and decided to experiment for myself !


I also have a shallow desk and am currently using a 27 inch. I think it is the reason for my eye strain so I am looking to switch to a 24. So I for one am interested! Looking forward to your results.

Either getting the normal 27 or that one probably.Even at 24 inch is it still quite cheap compared to other models.


----------



## Tim Drake

Which is better, X-Star or QNIX


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Which is better, X-Star or QNIX


They're exactly the same and the Crossover 2795 QHD is much better:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> They're exactly the same and the Crossover 2795 QHD is much better:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


Why is it better?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Why is it better?


Why not read the first post of the thread I linked to to find out?


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Why not read the first post of the thread I linked to to find out?


Literally none of that means anything to me, so for your information I had already read it


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Literally none of that means anything to me, so for your information I had already read it


The answer to your question is clearly answered in those 10 sentences or so.

If you already read it, i suggest reading it again for the answer to your question.


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Literally none of that means anything to me, so for your information I had already read it


It's pretty easy to find, they are very close but the
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Literally none of that means anything to me, so for your information I had already read it


You ask what is better, he gives an answer and you reply by saying it means nothing to you. What do you expect? Would you like a simpler explanation than what is written?

Basically they are pretty much the same. How I read the differences are...

Resolution, refresh rate potential: tie
Response time: 2795qhd
Color accuracy: 2795qhd

"2795 doesnt use LED PWM Dimming which ruins motion clarity (example) and cause some people to suffer from health issues like headaches and eyestrain."

Is that enough explanation?


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gary66*
> 
> It's pretty easy to find, they are very close but the
> You ask what is better, he gives an answer and you reply by saying it means nothing to you. What do you expect? Would you like a simpler explanation than what is written?
> 
> Basically they are pretty much the same. How I read the differences are...
> 
> Resolution, refresh rate potential: tie
> Response time: 2795qhd
> Color accuracy: 2795qhd
> 
> "2795 doesnt use LED PWM Dimming which ruins motion clarity (example) and cause some people to suffer from health issues like headaches and eyestrain."
> 
> Is that enough explanation?


No, it meant nothing to me because it listed a bunch of things that make no sense to me because I do not know what they all are.

He said "much better" and tbh I don't see much of a reason to spend extra. On paper at least.


----------



## awesomemcrad

Response time is the time it takes for your inputs to display on the monitor the lower the better when it comes to gaming, and color accuracy is pretty self explanitory, it means nicer more accurate colors, so you will have a nicer looking image.


----------



## gary66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> No, it meant nothing to me because it listed a bunch of things that make no sense to me because I do not know what they all are.
> 
> He said "much better" and tbh I don't see much of a reason to spend extra. On paper at least.


If you don't know what something is, at least take some time to google it. Being able to research is a valuable skill. When you have researched and cannot find what you need, or find conflicting information, then it is a good time to ask.

If you are not interested in knowing what the features are, then it is probably better to just grab whatever meet your budget and needs. Whether it be refresh rate, color, response times, resolution, size of monitor, connection interface, etc. You can just go grab any old LCD if you don't really care about all that.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gary66*
> 
> If you don't know what something is, at least take some time to google it. Being able to research is a valuable skill. When you have researched and cannot find what you need, or find conflicting information, then it is a good time to ask.
> 
> If you are not interested in knowing what the features are, then it is probably better to just grab whatever meet your budget and needs. Whether it be refresh rate, color, response times, resolution, size of monitor, connection interface, etc. You can just go grab any old LCD if you don't really care about all that.


All I asked for was a simplified Crossover vas Qnix / X-Star, I didn't ask for any of this tbh


----------



## zalskin

I cant update generic PnP drviers with qnix ones! it says i already have newest drivers. Help!


----------



## SinfulRoad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalskin*
> 
> I cant update generic PnP drviers with qnix ones! it says i already have newest drivers. Help!


You need to be in the device manager and right-click the "Generic PnP Monitor", then Update Driver Software, browse my computer for driver software, let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer, have disk , browse for the .inf file, OK, next, install this driver software anyway. Keep in mind, you need to have driver signature enforcement off. If you're on Windows 8/10, you can do that from the advanced reboot menu. If for some reason you have multiple monitors like me and couldn't tell which "Generic PnP Monitor" was the QNIX, go from Control Panel to Hardware and Sound, Devices and Printers, find the monitor there, mine was called DUAL-DVI, right click, properties, hardware, properties, change settings, then the rest is like before.


----------



## newguyeverytime

I finally got around to overclocking my X-Star 1440p monitor yesterday. I got up to 100 hz with no flickering or anything. I'm wondering if I can get to 120hz.


----------



## fleetfeather

Two questions:


Are overclocking kits for those monitors which have 60Hz PCBs still available anywhere? The places which I knew of no long carry stock

I know a lot of retailers for these korean 1440p monitors state that a Nvidia/AMD gpu which supports dual link DVI is needed. Did anything change in this regard when Intel's Iris iGPU's came to market? In other words, can an Iris 6200 power a 1440p korean monitor variant?
Cheers


----------



## Tim Drake

Wait, so if I buy a QNIX monitor from eBay that has no visible VAT or Customs charge, I can still get charged up to £100?!?!


----------



## daviejams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Wait, so if I buy a QNIX monitor from eBay that has no visible VAT or Customs charge, I can still get charged up to £100?!?!


Yes , it's the law

I've bought two of them in the last couple of years , one was £38 and the other was £44


----------



## awesomator

Anyone purchased a QNIX QX2710 from Newegg? There are two listings found below that seem to be identical in every way except for price. They are both single input, not true pixel, matte editions. HAs anyone bought the cheaper one and noticed any differences?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1GM6846

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1U38315


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daviejams*
> 
> Yes , it's the law
> 
> I've bought two of them in the last couple of years , one was £38 and the other was £44


Which ones did you buy?

That isn't too much then, only like £240 for the monitors then which results in being the same price as a 1440p 60Hz TN

Then again, I could get a 4K 60Hz for that price :/


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Which ones did you buy?
> 
> That isn't too much then, only like £240 for the monitors then which results in being the same price as a *1440p 60Hz TN*
> 
> Then again, I could get a 4K 60Hz for that price :/


Does not compare.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Does not compare.


My point exactly









Although 4K TN vs QNIX 1440p is still a hard choice for me


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> My point exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although 4K TN vs QNIX 1440p is still a hard choice for me


You're talking 2 high end cards to push 60fps vs 2 high end cards that can do 120hz.

I have a TN panel next to my qnix to remind me.


----------



## KottyKing

What video card or cards are you using? How about adapters?


----------



## Sader0

Quote:


> can an Iris 6200 power a 1440p korean monitor variant


I second this ! I have a QX2710 - but not sure if this setup may work. This might make small but expensive SFF ITX system..
Only saw " Supports DVI-D with max. resolution 1920 x 1200 @ 60 Hz" in all MB

Or I would better ask: which mITX Socket 1150 Mb can do this ?

Does anyone know ?

Thanks


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sader0*
> 
> I second this ! I have a QX2710 - but not sure if this setup may work. This might make small but expensive SFF ITX system..
> Only saw " Supports DVI-D with max. resolution 1920 x 1200 @ 60 Hz" in all MB
> 
> Or I would better ask: which mITX Socket 1150 Mb can do this ?
> 
> Does anyone know ?
> 
> Thanks


I think I've answered my own question too: it doesn't appear that Intel iGPU's (even Iris 6200 iGPU's) are supporting DVI resolutions above 1200p yet. Kind of annoying, as I don't game a whole lot anymore, and would love to use a compact HTPC to power my korean monitor (without buying an additional dGPU)


----------



## newguyeverytime

Does overclocking the monitors refresh rate cut into the life of the monitor? Has anyone had failures related to overclocking?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> All I asked for was a simplified Crossover vas Qnix / X-Star, I didn't ask for any of this tbh


There are at least three versions of each (3 matte & 3 glossy) Qnix QX2710/X-Star DP2710 PLS panels and all but the rarest matte Qnix/X-Star are inferior compared the Crossover 2795 QHD. Is that simple enough for you? Overclocking most versions of the Qnix/X-Star is mostly pointless since they suffer from PWM blur:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> My point exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although 4K TN vs QNIX 1440p is still a hard choice for me


Why? Most sub 200$ IPS panels looks much better than the 4k TN panels which costs significantly more and can't really benefit from 4k because of the matte coating and potential scaling issues. 4K 24-28" text is tiny and most of the extra pixel real-estate 4k provides is lost when text is up-scaled to legible sizes. 24-28" 4k text can look awful even compared to 27" 1080p monitors when up-scaled (depends on the program & operating system).


----------



## awesomemcrad

Hi guys I need some help, so i overclocked my monitor and I can set it to 120hz without it going out of range no flickers or anything, the thing is when I do the UFO test the 120fps and 60fps test looks identical, so I opened screen resolution in windows to confirm and it states that the monitor is set to 120hz, I can swear though that it is still completely running at 60hz.


----------



## Ractor

I got my Qnix QX2710 Evolution II today. Initially I thought it was great with no dead pixels, but some backlight bleed (bought the perfect pixel version from accessorieswhole http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111358944686). After a little while I noticed some serious image persistence. For example after loading SOMA (takes around 1 minute) the logo and contours of the loading screen stays and is very noticeable since it is a very dark game, and this is from watching Twitch for only 5 minutes: http://i.imgur.com/iDAT5ol.jpg. It disappears after around 20 minutes, or quickly (~2 minutes) while playing this 



 video in full screen. Does a lot of you have this problem? Is there a known fix or do I have to return it if I can't stand it? For others online it doesn't seem to be this severe.

Edit: Another example, from just writing the post: http://i.imgur.com/vvqNuKJ.jpg. Both pictures are taken with my phone on a black picture in full screen.


----------



## OptimusToaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ractor*
> 
> I got my Qnix QX2710 Evolution II today. Initially I thought it was great with no dead pixels, but some backlight bleed (bought the perfect pixel version from accessorieswhole http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111358944686). After a little while I noticed some serious image persistence. For example after loading SOMA (takes around 1 minute) the logo and contours of the loading screen stays and is very noticeable since it is a very dark game, and this is from watching Twitch for only 5 minutes: http://i.imgur.com/iDAT5ol.jpg. It disappears after around 20 minutes, or quickly (~2 minutes) while playing this
> 
> 
> 
> video in full screen. Does a lot of you have this problem? Is there a known fix or do I have to return it if I can't stand it? For others online it doesn't seem to be this severe.
> 
> Edit: Another example, from just writing the post: http://i.imgur.com/vvqNuKJ.jpg. Both pictures are taken with my phone on a black picture in full screen.


I do get burn in but it is not anywhere near that bad. It's worse the higher I overclock it too.

It normally takes about 15 minutes for an image to burn in and after a short while it is gone.


----------



## blued

I do not get burn in or even a hint of IPS glow. I think I have one of the rare, near perfect displays. 120hz as well with no artifacts, aside from the gamma rise which is correctable with an ICC profile.


----------



## newguyeverytime

I get some flashing on start up at 100 hz, for a period of like 10 seconds. Anyone get that?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awesomemcrad*
> 
> Hi guys I need some help, so i overclocked my monitor and I can set it to 120hz without it going out of range no flickers or anything, the thing is when I do the UFO test the 120fps and 60fps test looks identical, so I opened screen resolution in windows to confirm and it states that the monitor is set to 120hz, I can swear though that it is still completely running at 60hz.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *newguyeverytime*
> 
> I get some flashing on start up at 100 hz, for a period of like 10 seconds. Anyone get that?
Click to expand...

I'd like to comment or help but my ESP skills are not what they use to be









What are your system specs/OS (see sig)? What model QX2710 (purchase link!)? Are you running more than 1 monitor? Have you done the overclock confirmation tests (post screenshots!)?

1) 1st page OP--> "Overclocking Guide and Help" --> follow "Step 4" explicitly and post picture for "Validation"!
also see my post/Links *HERE* .... for more screenshot examples









Flashing on startup? ... single monitor? on the edge of stability, almost out of range ... change cables/ports? Does it do the same thing if you shut it down then restart after your rig/monitor is warmed up (10+min)?

If these are new panels do they have PWM diming? (see test below?)
AND are you getting gamma shift (diming of the panel) when you overclock?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ractor*
> 
> I got my Qnix QX2710 Evolution II today. Initially I thought it was great with no dead pixels, but some backlight bleed (bought the perfect pixel version from accessorieswhole http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111358944686). After a little while I noticed some serious image persistence. For example after loading SOMA (takes around 1 minute) the logo and contours of the loading screen stays and is very noticeable since it is a very dark game, and this is from watching Twitch for only 5 minutes: http://i.imgur.com/iDAT5ol.jpg. It disappears after around 20 minutes, or quickly (~2 minutes) while playing this
> 
> 
> 
> video in full screen. Does a lot of you have this problem? Is there a known fix or do I have to return it if I can't stand it? For others online it doesn't seem to be this severe.
> 
> Edit: Another example, from just writing the post: http://i.imgur.com/vvqNuKJ.jpg. Both pictures are taken with my phone on a black picture in full screen.


You are correct most other rare cases of this aren't as severe AND only happen when overclocked. There is no known cure other than what your doing or lower your overclock. If this is happening @60Hz I'd return it as faulty.

I'm also very curious as to whether your panel has PWM diming? Simple test/check is to open your smartphone camera app and focus on your monitor with a white background and normal brightness NOT 100%. You don't need to take a picture just observe if you see any "pulsing" grey lines like in the pic/vid below ...
AND are you getting gamma shift (diming of the panel) when you overclock?

PWM diming seen on the Right monitor ...


0:55sec in video




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> I do not get burn in or even a hint of IPS glow. I think I have one of the rare, near perfect displays. 120hz as well with no artifacts, aside from the gamma rise which is correctable with an ICC profile.


Same here... and I bet your's is also PWM free







.... It's been driving me nuts that the recently released "Super" monitors [Asus PG279Q / Acer XB270HU 1440p IPS 144Hz/GSync] have been so disappointing that there is no way I'd pay $500-$700 for an AUOptronics screen that won't even come close to the pure picture quality of our Samsungs'.... See *HERE*


----------



## Ractor

Quote:


> You are correct most other rare cases of this aren't as severe AND only happen when overclocked. There is no known cure other than what your doing or lower your overclock. If this is happening @60Hz I'd return it as faulty.
> 
> I'm also very curious as to whether your panel has PWM diming? Simple test/check is to open your smartphone camera app and focus on your monitor with a white background and normal brightness NOT 100%. You don't need to take a picture just observe if you see any "pulsing" grey lines like in the pic/vid below ...
> AND are you getting gamma shift (diming of the panel) when you overclock?


No PWM, what difference does that make? And I haven't overclocked it at all. Emailed the seller asking if it was a valid reason for returning, but haven't recieved an answer yet. I'm also not sure if i want to overclock it when I think about returning it, I have heard it messes with the warranty (anyone know anything about that?)


----------



## Dreemlan

I am thinking about ordering this X-Star DP2710 from dream-seller on eBay.

I read that you can't return for dead/stuck pixels and/or BLB, so pretty much you can't return it unless there's a major problem. Does that mean that if it's a bigger issue (such as can't turn on), I can return for free and if it's something like a dead pixel, then I need to pay for shipping? Or can I literally not return it and get my money back, even if I pay shipping, if it's an issue that he listed as no returns (such as dead pixels)?

Somebody told me something about a 14-day return period on eBay, but does a seller's return policy override that?

Also, the eBay listing for the monitor shows "Item location: California, United States" under "Shipping". Does that mean that the monitor would ship from California rather than South Korea? If that's the case, would that then mean that if return it, I would just send to to California rather than South Korea?

Thanks!


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> I am thinking about ordering this X-Star DP2710 from dream-seller on eBay.
> 
> I read that you can't return for dead/stuck pixels and/or BLB, so pretty much you can't return it unless there's a major problem. Does that mean that if it's a bigger issue (such as can't turn on), I can return for free and if it's something like a dead pixel, then I need to pay for shipping? Or can I literally not return it and get my money back, even if I pay shipping, if it's an issue that he listed as no returns (such as dead pixels)?
> 
> Somebody told me something about a 14-day return period on eBay, but does a seller's return policy override that?
> 
> Also, the eBay listing for the monitor shows "Item location: California, United States" under "Shipping". Does that mean that the monitor would ship from California rather than South Korea? If that's the case, would that then mean that if return it, I would just send to to California rather than South Korea?
> 
> Thanks!


Depends on if the California warehouse is setup to facilitate RMA's. You would have to ask dream-seller but I suspect they are handled in Korea for two reasons.

1) Manufacture is based there and for the seller to get credit for bad monitors, they must be returned to headquarters.

2) Less hassle for the vendors with RMA's as the shiiping cost to South Korea by proxy, pretty much invalidates your one year warranty. Most wont bother with returns or a monitor going bad unless the vendor picks up the cost and the only time they do that is if you get a bad one out of the box or if it fails within 14 days.


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Depends on if the California warehouse is setup to facilitate RMA's. You would have to ask dream-seller but I suspect they are handled in Korea for two reasons.
> 
> 1) Manufacture is based there and for the seller to get credit for bad monitors, they must be returned to headquarters.
> 
> 2) Less hassle for the vendors with RMA's as the shiiping cost to South Korea by proxy, pretty much invalidates your one year warranty. Most wont bother with returns or a monitor going bad unless the vendor picks up the cost and the only time they do that is if you get a bad one out of the box or if it fails within 14 days.


Thank you for the response!

So, if I were to receive a monitor with a couple dead pixels and he deems it not returnable, can I still pay the shipping to return it and then get my money back to buy a new one, or is it literally not returnable and I'm stuck with my purchase?


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Thank you for the response!
> 
> So, if I were to receive a monitor with a couple dead pixels and he deems it not returnable, can I still pay the shipping to return it and then get my money back to buy a new one, or is it literally not returnable and I'm stuck with my purchase?


Within 14 days that is your right per Ebay's policy. Bear in mind, shipping to South Korea is very expensive for something this size. There is a reason ordering a Korean monitor is refereed to as the panel lottery. For most of us, the 50% or greater savings over domestic offerings is worth the "risk".


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Within 14 days that is your right per Ebay's policy. Bear in mind, shipping to South Korea is very expensive for something this size. There is a reason ordering a Korean monitor is refereed to as the panel lottery. For most of us, the 50% or greater savings over domestic offerings is worth the "risk".


Okay, that makes sense.

Any idea what it costs to ship it? I just did a little calculator thing and costs came out to be around $90...


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Okay, that makes sense.
> 
> Any idea what it costs to ship it? I just did a little calculator thing and costs came out to be around $90...


$90 sounds about right. You could always see if dream-seller offers a "Perfect" version of monitor your looking to buy. They cost a bit more, but if you get a less than stellar panel, the vendor pays the return shipping for refund or exchange where as normally you would. Most of the Korean monitor vendors offer this on the monitors they sell.

Dream-Seller "perfect policy"

About pixel warranty policy
With Perfect pixel option, 0 ~ 3 dead pixel is possible.
We define dead pixel as 'bright dot' in the dark.
Dark dot and stuck pixel is NOT CONSIDERED as dead pixel. BRIGHT DOT ONLY

His main rival green-sum who sells almost everything dream-seller does has a better pixel perfect policy of 0-1 dead pixels. Something to consider...


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> $90 sounds about right. You could always see if dream-seller offers a "Perfect" version of monitor your looking to buy. They cost a bit more, but if you get a less than stellar panel, the vendor pays the return shipping for refund or exchange where as normally you would. Most of the Korean monitor vendors offer this on the monitors they sell.
> 
> Dream-Seller "perfect policy"
> 
> About pixel warranty policy
> With Perfect pixel option, 0 ~ 3 dead pixel is possible.
> We define dead pixel as 'bright dot' in the dark.
> Dark dot and stuck pixel is NOT CONSIDERED as dead pixel. BRIGHT DOT ONLY
> 
> His main rival green-sum who sells almost everything dream-seller does has a better pixel perfect policy of 0-1 dead pixels. Something to consider...


Hmm... really is a gamble, isn't it, lol.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Hmm... really is a gamble, isn't it, lol.


It is, but not as bad as you think. It's quite uncommon to get a bum panel. I did not pay extra for my Crossover 2795QHD Korean monitor as in my research most tech reviewers of these monitors and a lot of others who have ordered a lot of Korean monitors say it's not worth the extra cost as in their experience they have never received one that needed a RMA.


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> It is, but not as bad as you think. It's quite uncommon to get a bum panel. I did not pay extra for my Crossover 2795QHD Korean monitor as in my research most tech reviewers of these monitors and a lot of others who have ordered a lot of Korean monitors say it's not worth the extra cost as in their experience they have never received one that needed a RMA.


Yeah, dream-seller, greensum and etc. all have an overwhelmingly positive amount of reviews, but to get a monitor that has one dead pixel in the middle of the screen might drive me crazy, lmao.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Yeah, dream-seller, greensum and etc. all have an overwhelmingly positive amount of reviews, but to get a monitor that has one dead pixel in the middle of the screen might drive me crazy, lmao.


The fact is, you cant touch a new domestically offered 27" 1440p without paying double to triple the cost vs a comparable Qnix or Crossover. Most of us buy the Korean monitors as there is no way we can justify or afford what domestic offerings (Asus, Ben-Q, Dell, etc) with the same specs cost. As always, comes down to what is more important to you (the price or guaranteed perfection).


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> The fact is, you cant touch a new domestically offered 27" 1440p without paying double to triple the cost vs a comparable Qnix or Crossover. Most of us buy the Korean monitors as there is no way we can justify or afford what domestic offerings (Asus, Ben-Q, Dell, etc) with the same specs cost. As always, comes down to what is more important to you (the price or guaranteed perfection).


Yeah, I suppose when you're buying a 27", 1440p, IPS/PLS monitor that can potentially be overclocked to up to 120hz for sometimes less than half the price of big name brands, beggars can't be choosers.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Yeah, I suppose when you're buying a 27", 1440p, IPS/PLS monitor that can potentially be overclocked to up to 120hz, beggars can't be choosers.


At the $200-300 price point with proven quality and overall very good success at winning the panel lottery with getting a near perfect to perfect monitor you really cant complain. Squeeze the trigger on the Qnix or comparable Crossover (the 2795QHD is a strong rival to the 2710), I'm confident you will be glad you did









http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> At the $200-300 price point with proven quality and overall very good success at winning the panel lottery with getting a near perfect to perfect monitor you really cant complain. Squeeze the trigger on the Qnix or comparable Crossover (the 2795QHD is a strong rival to the 2710), I'm confident you will be glad you did


Aren't the X-Star and QNIX pretty much the same panel? I'm liking the X-Star DP2710 because it's only $200.

Also, what about buying a used Korean monitor from someone? Would be cool to find someone who upgraded or something and is selling one without dead pixels, but I'd understand if that's not a common occurence, lol.


----------



## Iceshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Aren't the X-Star and QNIX pretty much the same panel? I'm liking the X-Star DP2710 because it's only $200.
> 
> Also, what about buying a used Korean monitor from someone? Would be cool to find someone who upgraded or something and is selling one without dead pixels, but I'd understand if that's not a common occurence, lol.


Mostly yes. There are 3 different variants of the 2710. The single DVI-D input ones are the best overclockers by a wide margin and the older 02 panels are considered the very best of the 2710 and are highly sought after. The newer 2710 stock has cheapened on the build quality, the 07 version of the panel does not on the whole overclock as well as the older 02, and the newer 2710's suffer from use LED PWM Dimming (flicker). This thread covers this in exhaustive detail.

The Crossover 2795QHD does not use LED PWM Dimming, have fantastic panels, and overclock well. However, they are more expensive averaging $300.


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Mostly yes. There are 3 different variants of the 2710. The single DVI-D input ones are the best overclockers by a wide margin and the older 02 panels are considered the very best of the 2710 and are highly sought after. The newer 2710 stock has cheapened on the build quality, the 07 version of the panel does not on the whole overclock as well as the older 02, and the newer 2710's suffer from use LED PWM Dimming (flicker). This thread covers this in exhaustive detail.
> 
> The Crossover 2795QHD does not use LED PWM Dimming, have fantastic panels, and overclock well. However, they are more expensive averaging $300.


I remember watching a video about the difference between 02 and 07 panels, how 07 panels pretty much have a higher gamma/lighter blacks. Couldn't you modify the colors of the 07 panel to try to mimic the 02? Increasing contrast or something?

I'm guessing the $200 X-Star I have in mind is a 07 panel sadly, lol.

In regard to PWM flickering, if my current BenQ RL2450HT TN has it, then I haven't noticed and it shouldn't be a problem.

*---UPDATE---*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceshot*
> 
> Depends on if the California warehouse is setup to facilitate RMA's. You would have to ask dream-seller but I suspect they are handled in Korea for two reasons.
> 
> 1) Manufacture is based there and for the seller to get credit for bad monitors, they must be returned to headquarters.
> 
> 2) Less hassle for the vendors with RMA's as the shiiping cost to South Korea by proxy, pretty much invalidates your one year warranty. Most wont bother with returns or a monitor going bad unless the vendor picks up the cost and the only time they do that is if you get a bad one out of the box or if it fails within 14 days.


I have been talking with dream-seller and he said that:

1) It is indeed shipped from their US garage (eBay listing says it's in California)

2) If I want to return, but am not covered by the return policy (such as dead pixels): "If you're willing to pay for return shipping fee, you can return to our US garage. But if the item is not in original condition like a new, 20% of restocking fee will be deducted as well." (this is also the case for the full refund that is covered by his policy)

It's possible that he didn't clearly understand my messages, but if what he says is true, that's pretty awesome.


----------



## newguyeverytime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I'd like to comment or help but my ESP skills are not what they use to be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are your system specs/OS (see sig)? What model QX2710 (purchase link!)? Are you running more than 1 monitor? Have you done the overclock confirmation tests (post screenshots!)?
> 
> 1) 1st page OP--> "Overclocking Guide and Help" --> follow "Step 4" explicitly and post picture for "Validation"!
> also see my post/Links *HERE* .... for more screenshot examples
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flashing on startup? ... single monitor? on the edge of stability, almost out of range ... change cables/ports? Does it do the same thing if you shut it down then restart after your rig/monitor is warmed up (10+min)?
> 
> If these are new panels do they have PWM diming? (see test below?)
> AND are you getting gamma shift (diming of the panel) when you overclock?


This is the model I bought off Ebay on 4/19/14 "[Matte] X-STAR * DP2710LED Samsung PLS Panel WQHD" http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-star-DP2710-LED-WQHD-2560x1440-27inch-Computer-Monitor-Glossy-/330932578190?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:1120

I have no idea if this is the best panel for overclocking, but it seems to do a good job. I also don't have a camera, so I did some screen shots.

It only flashes a little bit during start up, for maybe 10 seconds. I can see the desktop on startup, but it just wigs out, almost like a display driver acting out when overclocking. Then it's fine after 10 seconds.

I have an 860k + 290 (15.9)
Windows 10
Single Monitor

I have not seen any dimming or pwm shifting on ufo tests. I'm just wondering if I'm going to blow this monitor up...lol.


----------



## ddrhazy

So my QX2710 wouldn't turn on this morning. Tried different power cables and it still wouldn't turn on. I have no way of testing if the power brick is the problem or if it's the monitor. I bought the monitor 2 years ago off e-bay seller green-sum and use the monitor heavily. Anyone have suggestions?


----------



## dmikester1

FYI, the glossy QNIX QX2710 is $200 today and tomorrow!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> FYI, the glossy QNIX QX2710 is $200 today and tomorrow!
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651


Screw you Americans :'(


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> FYI, the glossy QNIX QX2710 is $200 today and tomorrow!
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651


Are these good? I thought these monitors didn't oc well now?


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmikester1*
> 
> FYI, the glossy QNIX QX2710 is $200 today and tomorrow!
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651


How does that compare to the X-Star DP2710 that's been $200 for a while?

I see that the QNIX is "Perfect Pixel", but I've heard that it's more of a gimmick. Aren't the two monitors nearly identical in panel quality/overclocking ability?


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> Screw you Americans :'(


Likely an 07 panel, anyway!


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rsturtle*
> 
> Likely an 07 panel, anyway!


Is it possible to set up the colors on an 07 to try to mimic the 02? Isn't the 02 basically darker blacks/better contrast?


----------



## XIIGage

I purchased one of the Glossy panels from Green-Sum and received it today. I was really hoping for a 02 panel based on what everyone was saying, but received a 07 panel =(. I am not really disappointed with it at all though. I was able to overclock it to 110hz with little issue, but got a weird flicker every so often and turned it down to 105hz. It has been there all day with no problems at all. I posted some pictures as well. It is very vibrant with no backlight bleed and no dead pixels. I was VERY worried about the "washed out" colors other say they had with the 07 panels, but it looks very nice. It does seem to have "PWM dimming" but I am not 100% sure how it effects anything yet.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> How does that compare to the X-Star DP2710 that's been $200 for a while?


They're made by the same company and are the same aside from the fact that the X-Star monitors usually have easily remove-able stands while the Qnix's stand is made with the same parts, but is usually screwed in on the inside.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Is it possible to set up the colors on an 07 to try to mimic the 02? Isn't the 02 basically darker blacks/better contrast?


No. The glossy 02 has inaccurate colour presets since it suffer from an obvious red dominance and high gamma which causes black crush which is further exacerbated when the 02 is overclocked. The 07's gamma doesn't change when overclocked and is slightly too low resulting in less saturated, but more neutral colours. The 02 looks better once calibrated, but a colorimeter (x-rite colour munkie is the cheapest, accurate colorimeter; spyders are inaccurate and a waste of $) is required to calibrate a monitor properly. Using someone else's ICC profile ≠ calibration but is likely good enough for the 99%, especially for the 02 & extremely rare matte 06 panels since they suffer from black crush (the gamma rises) when overclocked.

Those who want a cheap glossy monitor should forget about these and buy a HP 25/27 CW or XW which better than 99% of monitors available. Unfortunately I'm not allowed to link to my review, but one can always use google.

@Everyone Else

Playwares just reviewed a new edition of the Qnix QX2710 Multi DP which now has twice the contrast of the original normal (competitive/fast) pixel response times and is actually flicker/PWM free unlike the original version reviewed by TFT Central. It's this monitor to buy if one wants a matte multi-input, in fact this unit they tested is better than all of the affordable name brand options like the Asus PB278Q, BenQ GW2765HT. Unfortunately they did not check to see if it drops frames when overclocked. I also don't know to differentiate between the old and new versions.

http://playwares.com/dpreview/47671515#


----------



## newguyeverytime

Ok, so I started my computer this morning and the monitor started shutting off as soon as I logged into windows. I disabled the monitor overclock from safe mode, and logged in normally, bam same issue. Found out my overclock on my GPU was causing the flickering and shut off. I deleted MSI-AB from safe mode and made a newer overclock profile on my 290 to 1025 and no memory overclock. Ran my monitor up to 96hz and running with no issues.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newguyeverytime*
> 
> This is the model I bought off Ebay on 4/19/14 "[Matte] X-STAR * DP2710LED Samsung PLS Panel WQHD" http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-star-DP2710-LED-WQHD-2560x1440-27inch-Computer-Monitor-Glossy-/330932578190?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:1120
> 
> I have no idea if this is the best panel for overclocking, but it seems to do a good job. I also don't have a camera, so I did some screen shots.
> 
> It only flashes a little bit during start up, for maybe 10 seconds. I can see the desktop on startup, but it just wigs out, almost like a display driver acting out when overclocking. Then it's fine after 10 seconds.
> 
> I have an 860k + 290 (15.9)
> Windows 10
> Single Monitor
> 
> I have not seen any dimming or pwm shifting on ufo tests. I'm just wondering if I'm going to blow this monitor up...lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *newguyeverytime*
> 
> Ok, so I started my computer this morning and the monitor started shutting off as soon as I logged into windows. I disabled the monitor overclock from safe mode, and logged in normally, bam same issue. Found out my overclock on my GPU was causing the flickering and shut off. I deleted MSI-AB from safe mode and made a newer overclock profile on my 290 to 1025 and no memory overclock. Ran my monitor up to 96hz and running with no issues.
Click to expand...

Nice! You beat me to it, you were initially right it was a driver problem








Still a bit confused on which model you actually have, because the one you linked (L07 Glossy) didn't even become available until over 6mos later ... no worries, glad your up and running again









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ddrhazy*
> 
> So my QX2710 wouldn't turn on this morning. Tried different power cables and it still wouldn't turn on. I have no way of testing if the power brick is the problem or if it's the monitor. I bought the monitor 2 years ago off e-bay seller green-sum and use the monitor heavily. Anyone have suggestions?


When encountering this type of problem the 1st thing most guys do is replace the Power supply ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa&rmvSB=true

Everyone should occasionally check their power brick, and if it is "Hot" to the touch I would replace it









@MTuba +R for the new info









"QNIX naming conventions" ... STINK








I give up trying to differentiate all the different models under the same name


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Those who want a cheap glossy monitor should forget about these and buy a HP 25/27 CW or XW which better than 99% of monitors available. Unfortunately I'm not allowed to link to my review, but one can always use google.


It's less about me simply wanting a cheap monitor, but me wanting a cheap monitor that can overclock, which is why the Korean monitors are appealing to me, lol. I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of color accuracy for more hertz.

Would a 07 panel still be a big upgrade from a TN?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> It's less about me simply wanting a cheap monitor, but me wanting a cheap monitor that can overclock, which is why the Korean monitors are appealing to me, lol. I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of color accuracy for more hertz. Would a 07 panel still be a big upgrade from a TN?


The HP monitors can be overclocked to 75hz, and doing so is not pointless since they don't use PWM or are Flicker Free unlike the most common versions of the PLS Qnix/X-Star, and offer much better image quality than both the glossy 02 & 07, as well as suffer from far less ghosting than all versions of the PLS Qnix/X-Star. Obviously an 07 offers better image quality than most TN panels, but without knowing the model I can't determine if it will offer better gaming performance.


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The HP monitors can be overclocked to 75hz, and doing so is not pointless since they don't use PWM or are Flicker Free unlike the most common versions of the PLS Qnix/X-Star. Obviously an 07 offers better image quality than TN panels, but without knowing the model I can't determine if it will offer better gaming performance. The HP monitors I mentioned 100% destroy the 07 for the same price though.


Do you have any idea if my current monitor, the BenQ RL2450HT (TN), has PWM flicker? I've been having trouble figuring out if it does. If it does, I haven't noticed at all and I wouldn't care for a PWM free monitor if it meant sacrificing more overclocking capabilities.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Do you have any idea if my current monitor, the BenQ RL2450HT (TN), has PWM flicker? I've been having trouble figuring out if it does. If it does, I haven't noticed at all and I wouldn't care for a PWM free monitor if it meant sacrificing more overclocking capabilities.


The answer to your question is available in the first RL2450HT Google result which links to BenQ's website; don't be lazy. The 07 (and all other versions with PWM) is a pure downgrade in terms of motion blur and pixel response times compared to the BenQ which is flicker free.


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The answer to your question is available in the first RL2450HT Google result which links to BenQ's website; don't be lazy. The 07 (and all other versions with PWM) is a pure downgrade in terms of motion blur and pixel response times compared to the BenQ which is flicker free.


Did you read that on the reference guide that is on the first Google result? Because that reference guide says that the monitor is 1ms GTG, while all other pages about the monitor say that it's 2ms GTG. Doesn't seem like a very reliable source of information.

This page doesn't show anything about flicker free, whereas this page on the RL2460HT specifically mentions "Flicker-free Technology under special features. Seems like it'd be safe to assume that the RL2450HT then does not have that technology.

Maybe they just forgot to update the page, not sure. It appears that a simple Google result does not provide a clear answer.

Edit: the Canadian website for the monitor says that it does have Flicker-free technology.


----------



## ddrhazy

So the problem was the power brick. I got a new one, and monitor is working fine and dandy.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Edit: the Canadian website for the monitor says that it does have Flicker-free technology.


That's the first result which came up for me, but if the RL2450HT was purchased in 2012, then you have one with a 360hz pwm frequency which is triple the frequency of the PWM frequency the Qnix/X-Star use, which is considerably better. If you want an overclock-able Korean monitor the Crossover 2795 QHD (official thread & more information) is the only one worth buying.


----------



## cah192

Hello, I recently bought this monitor from green-sum. The glossy version. I hooked it into my GTX 970. No dead pixels or anything like like. I have a few issues though. Everything is pixelated looking. Like, the text isn't clear at all. I can barely read anything on it. Everything looks really weird. Is there something I need to configure? I can barely see anything on it. I'm using Windows 10 and I'm starting to regret this purchase. My ASUS VS239H-P looks better and more clear.

EDIT: It's good now. It was a DVI issue. Everything kind of looks a little tinted though. Maybe a yellowish blue tint


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cah192*
> 
> Hello, I recently bought this monitor from green-sum. The glossy version. I hooked it into my GTX 970. No dead pixels or anything like like. I have a few issues though. Everything is pixelated looking. Like, the text isn't clear at all. I can barely read anything on it. Everything looks really weird. Is there something I need to configure? I can barely see anything on it. I'm using Windows 10 and I'm starting to regret this purchase. My ASUS VS239H-P looks better and more clear.
> 
> EDIT: It's good now. It was a DVI issue. Everything kind of looks a little tinted though. Maybe a yellowish blue tint


Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think a colored tint is simply a color profile issue. Look at the first page of this thread, "Color Calibration Profiles (ICC) and How to install them".

Hopefully that will help


----------



## rsturtle

You're both right. Color accuracy is not very good on these monitors out of the box in my opinion. Mine was VERY blue when I first got it, you could easily tell with the naked eye. Even the Windows color calibration (which is terrible but convenient) was good enough to get the colors to an acceptable point. I needed to lower blue output by like 12% and green by like 6-7% to get it about right. These are so nice looking when you get them calibrated even a little bit, especially if you have an 02 panel. I don't know if mine is an 02 for certain, but its an early 2015 Matte screen so by all available information it should be an 02, haven't opened it up to know for sure though.


----------



## blued

When I got mine (early 2014, L02 panel) it was sufficiently color accurate (about 6400k). Over time it has shifted slightly to around 6700k (after a period of few weeks storage). This only happened when I pulled it out of storage, but has generally held up well after that (I check it periodically with a colorimeter). Oddly enough, color space has improved. Was typically 99.6% SRGB now its always 100%.


----------



## oneilljstn

Anyone managed to get one of these running off a surface pro? I am very curious to know if my qnix will work with my new surface pro 4 dock


----------



## cah192

I cannot get color sustainer to work on Windows 10 64 bit. I'm trying to get profiles to work for my Glossy QNIX 2710. But nothing changes.


----------



## causese1990

Hi.

Is anyone familiar with AHWA Panel/Adobe RGB 100%? I heard PLS colors are better, but since this is an ADOBE RGB 100%, does that make it better?

I don't know which monitor I should suggest my sister. She studys fine arts and wants a colorful Monitor.

I guess it's either:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Adobe-DP-27-2560x1440-Adobe-RGB-100-10bit-Monitor-/131547253338?hash=item1ea0d3ca5a:g:RC8AAOSwHnFVkpJo

or

http://www.ebay.de/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-27-Zoll-Monitor-/130913840957?hash=item1e7b12af3d:g1EAAMXQ0pNRtZBS

Any info on the 10 bit?

Thanks,
help is really appreciated.


----------



## andalogstick

I just received my glossy X-Star from Dream Seller for $199 and after opening it to remove the stand stem, it is indeed an 02 panel. So happy. BF4 looks amazing at 120hz. Just thought I'd share this.

edit:
Forgot to mention no backlight bleed and 0 dead pixels.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> ADOBE RGB 100%, does that make it better?


No, it actually makes it 100% worse since the monitor will vastly over-saturate colours unless used properly with work related programs which support colour management (Photoshop), and consumer media is created for the sRGB colour space which is considerably smaller than Adobe RGB colour space. Left: Non-colour managed wide gamut monitor versus normal monitor:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *causese1990*
> 
> Any info on the 10 bit?


It's irrelevant, refer to my signature. Make her buy a Crossover 2795 QHD (Official Thread) to avoid the PWM and panel lottery the single-input Qnox/X-Star suffer from, plus it's better than them anyway. PLS>IPS=myth and varies on a case by case/monitor basis; some IPS are better than some PLS.


----------



## BrokenPC

I bought this Qnix monitor the other day, I didn't read this thread first.









I just, just got tired of my old one so I ended up with the wrong one of course with the Multi Input. Anyways, I overclocked it to 110 but it has frame skipping, At 72 there is no frame skipping, will try higher later. I also did a lot of testing for PWM frequency and I can't seem to detect it at 50% brightness so I am very happy with it. No dead pixels or BLB. Going to pick up another one work. The crossover is better right? Can do 120 with no frame skipping? The Qnix is seriously great for 200 bucks. I paid up to get the Vesa stand ended up being 329 won't make that mistake this time.


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andalogstick*
> 
> I just received my glossy X-Star from Dream Seller for $199 and after opening it to remove the stand stem, it is indeed an 02 panel. So happy. BF4 looks amazing at 120hz. Just thought I'd share this.
> 
> edit:
> Forgot to mention no backlight bleed and 0 dead pixels.


Wow, really? Maybe I should order one now in case there's no more 02 soon.


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Wow, really? Maybe I should order one now in case there's no more 02 soon.


MMM I got the matte one and wanted to add 2 more. Is the Matte original hard to find too or just the glossy?
Maybe I can just get two glossy ones for my side ones...


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> MMM I got the matte one and wanted to add 2 more. Is the Matte original hard to find too or just the glossy?
> Maybe I can just get two glossy ones for my side ones...


I have not seen the matte version around much and any I've seen have been like $100 more (a bit over $300).

Luckily, for me, I only use my computer in a dimly lit cave (my bedroom), so glossy should be just fine


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> I have not seen the matte version around much and any I've seen have been like $100 more (a bit over $300).
> 
> Luckily, for me, I only use my computer in a dimly lit cave (my bedroom), so glossy should be just fine


Well I play in a dark room too and since my center one will be matte, I guess I can live with that.


----------



## BrokenPC

Is this not the one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-AH-IPS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-Matte-/400974478465?hash=item5d5bf0fc81:g:b7QAAOSwHnFVxtXl

Is 279.00 Matte.


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrokenPC*
> 
> Is this not the one?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-AH-IPS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-Matte-/400974478465?hash=item5d5bf0fc81:g:b7QAAOSwHnFVxtXl
> 
> Is 279.00 Matte.


I thought he was talking about the X-Star DP2710, which I can only find like a single matte version of on ebay.


----------



## BrokenPC

Doh, Sorry, I got the Qnix thread mixed up with the Crossover thread in my head.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Hi guys, ran into some trouble with overclocking my xstar dp2710. Had it just over a year now and I've overclocked it before up to 96hz no problems. A few months ago I got a 980ti and haven't been able to get my 96hz oc back. In nvidia control panel I create a custom resolution, change the refresh rate to 96hz and run the test and apply the new config. Then I check on windows display settings and only if I uncheck hide refresh rates this monitor does not display does the 96hz appear. Applyed it, then went to http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping and it says its 60hz and games still vsync at 60hz as well. Any ideas? Am I missing a step? It was fine before with my R9 290s.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Am I missing a step? It was fine before with my R9 290s.


You skipped the step where you realized 290s are better than Nvidia ;p


----------



## Joe-Gamer

I'm getting way better performance with my 980Ti than my 290cfx


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Hi guys, ran into some trouble with overclocking my xstar dp2710. Had it just over a year now and I've overclocked it before up to 96hz no problems. A few months ago I got a 980ti and haven't been able to get my 96hz oc back. In nvidia control panel I create a custom resolution, change the refresh rate to 96hz and run the test and apply the new config. Then I check on windows display settings and only if I uncheck hide refresh rates this monitor does not display does the 96hz appear. Applyed it, then went to http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping and it says its 60hz and games still vsync at 60hz as well. Any ideas? Am I missing a step? It was fine before with my R9 290s.


Try CRU.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey guys whats up? Been a long time since i posted on here but still check regularly. Anyway i ran into an issue today, i restored my PC today, have done this multiple times without issues, have had my monitore a little over a year now, currently running win10 pro with a 980TI, i try changing the monitor driver using the driver provided here and go into device manager and try but get an error saying "the third party INF does not contain digital signature information. Any advice?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dry Bonez*
> 
> Hey guys whats up? Been a long time since i posted on here but still check regularly. Anyway i ran into an issue today, i restored my PC today, have done this multiple times without issues, have had my monitore a little over a year now, currently running win10 pro with a 980TI, i try changing the monitor driver using the driver provided here and go into device manager and try but get an error saying "the third party INF does not contain digital signature information. Any advice?


disable windows signature enforcement. Just google how to do that and it should work.

Just another note. I'm getting my 980ti sometime this week. Anything I should do to get at least 96hz out of the monitor and in games? if I need the driver where can I get it.


----------



## bringtheaction

So I've been running my dp2710 with a 770 at 120hz for a few months now, but I just upgraded to a 980 and now the refresh rate keeps changing to 60hz every time I start up a game. It switches back to 120hz once I alt-tab back to the desktop then back to 60zh when back in the game. I've tried different games but the same thing happens.

I followed everything I did before as well as doing a clean install of the drivers but nothing is helping.


----------



## 2010ngojo

How do you guys check what refresh rate the games are running at?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> How do you guys check what refresh rate the games are running at?


I guess u can use vsync to check that. If a game is running at 60hz your fps should be locked to 60FPS


----------



## gamecubegarth

Has anyone had luck with overclocking on AMD's Catalyst 15.7.1 on Win7SP1?

To start, my rig (Win7, MSI 7950 Boost, Catalyst 13.1, X-Star 2710) has held a stable OC of 96 Hz for well over a year, and seems to handle 110 Hz with the tighter timings. I tried to do the jig of updating Catalyst from 13.1 to the recent 15.7.1, and the panel didn't like that at all. After applying the newest patch and timings, 85+ Hz became impossible (black screen), and even minor overclocks like 72 Hz suffered from immense artifacts usually reserved for 120+ Hz shenanigans. I tried tinkering with the reduced DVI timings, doing a clean driver install, and checking GPU OC settings, but nothing seemed to help much. Reverting via system restore to Catalyst 13.1 solved these problems, so it likely wasn't the cable or PCB causing the issue either.

What could have caused this to happen? Is 15.7.1 an unstable platform for a 7950, or could something else be to blame? I'd really like to get this update working, since 13.1 isn't supported by Blender's new GPU rendering features.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Hi guys, ran into some trouble with overclocking my xstar dp2710. Had it just over a year now and I've overclocked it before up to 96hz no problems. A few months ago I got a 980ti and haven't been able to get my 96hz oc back. In nvidia control panel I create a custom resolution, change the refresh rate to 96hz and run the test and apply the new config. Then I check on windows display settings and only if I uncheck hide refresh rates this monitor does not display does the 96hz appear. Applyed it, then went to http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping and it says its 60hz and games still vsync at 60hz as well. Any ideas? Am I missing a step? It was fine before with my R9 290s.


This is a classic driver conflict when changing GPU platforms, especially AMD-->Nvidia








Make sure all remnants of Catalysts AND CRU are completely removed. Also make sure your OC is also recognized/applied in Windows display settings. THEN "reboot" ... are you using Chrome to check OC's at testufo? if your on Win10 there may be more probs I'm not familiar with









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bringtheaction*
> 
> So I've been running my dp2710 with a 770 at 120hz for a few months now, but I just upgraded to a 980 and now the refresh rate keeps changing to 60hz every time I start up a game. It switches back to 120hz once I alt-tab back to the desktop then back to 60zh when back in the game. I've tried different games but the same thing happens.
> 
> I followed everything I did before as well as doing a clean install of the drivers but nothing is helping.


Strange I went from a 680 to 980Ti with no problems. Did you install the monitor driver? See the OC guide for more info *HERE* ... try a "clean" re-install of your drivers, or rollback to what last worked to troubleshoot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamecubegarth*
> 
> Has anyone had luck with overclocking on AMD's Catalyst 15.7.1 on Win7SP1?
> 
> To start, my rig (Win7, MSI 7950 Boost, Catalyst 13.1, X-Star 2710) has held a stable OC of 96 Hz for well over a year, and seems to handle 110 Hz with the tighter timings. I tried to do the jig of updating Catalyst from 13.1 to the recent 15.7.1, and the panel didn't like that at all. After applying the newest patch and timings, 85+ Hz became impossible (black screen), and even minor overclocks like 72 Hz suffered from immense artifacts usually reserved for 120+ Hz shenanigans. I tried tinkering with the reduced DVI timings, doing a clean driver install, and checking GPU OC settings, but nothing seemed to help much. Reverting via system restore to Catalyst 13.1 solved these problems, so it likely wasn't the cable or PCB causing the issue either.
> 
> What could have caused this to happen? Is 15.7.1 an unstable platform for a 7950, or could something else be to blame? I'd really like to get this update working, since 13.1 isn't supported by Blender's new GPU rendering features.


You probably need the updated version of CRU 1.3 ... when Catalyst 14.xx came along it "broke" the OC's. Go to the OC guide *HERE* for more details/Links









_Important notice!
Use ToastyX new 1.3 AMD/ATI Pixel Clock Patcher optimized for the new AMD Omega (14.12) drivers!...Grab ToastyX new 1.3 AMD/ATI Pixel Clock Patcher HERE Thank you ToastyX
_


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Yeah all amd drivers are gone, had a clean install of windows 10 after the swap as well. Firefox with http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping says 96hz and chrome says its 60hz. Is chrome locked to 60? 96hz is applied and then I rebooted and tested. CSGO with vsync also locks to 60fps not 96fps.


----------



## eyedrop

Im looking to buy a monitor calibration tool such as a spyder or colormunki. Im not looking for anything top of the line, just something that will get my colors "close enough" for general web browsing, watching movies, and videogames. I can get a used Spyder3 pro for about $45 which seems like a good option. Ive heard alot of people say used colorimeters are a bad idea since the light sensors become inacurate over time. Is this something I should worry about? Is it worth the extra money to get a brand new colorimeter? Im willing to spend up to $90 for something new (like the colormunki smile) but I would rather get something cheaper if possible as long as the risk is low. Im not looking for perfect accuracy, I just dont want to screw myself on a used one. Is it risky buying used? Some of the ones Im interested in are 5+ years old...


----------



## gamecubegarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You probably need the updated version of CRU 1.3 ... when Catalyst 14.xx came along it "broke" the OC's.


After trying the driver update tango again, it was likely the old monitor profile getting in the way. The newest version of CRU was still relying on the the last established connection with the monitor (last edited with CRU 1.0). I had unchecked the extension block setting, though I'm still unsure of its impact. In any case, I deleted the monitor profile completely and let Windows establish a default connection. From there, re-adding my 96 Hz timings just worked.







I'm still kinda in the dark as to what sorcery prevented my old overclocks from working in the first place, since they weren't anything more simple tweaks from default, but hey, at least the thing gives a stable picture now.

Here's to stability and performance!


----------



## cokefriend

hey guys,
i have a crossover 27qw, but was looking into a new panel for overclocking for csgo
i live in canada, so some of the deals on ebay dont ship here
that said, what's the cheapest 1440p monitor i can buy (im assuming around 300cad) that can overclock moderately well? and where would i buy it?


----------



## joshkope

What was the main verdict on PWM for this monitor? Do the single input-DVI have PWM? Because I have one and even at lower brightness, I haven't noticed any headaches or flickering. I'm not sure what all the fuss is about. I've seen this monitor get slammed all over the Internet for having PWM and I haven't noticed a thing.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> What was the main verdict on PWM for this monitor? Do the single input-DVI have PWM? Because I have one and even at lower brightness, I haven't noticed any headaches or flickering. I'm not sure what all the fuss is about. I've seen this monitor get slammed all over the Internet for having PWM and I haven't noticed a thing.


Most earlier models (pre-2015) did not have PWM. Then many started to appear with PWM.. along with different panels, construction quality, etc. Its basically a lottery to buy a Qnix, you're not sure what you may end up with. Many people are not bothered by PWM (unless at low frequencies), I guess thats why they continue to make them.


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Most earlier models (pre-2015) did not have PWM. Then many started to appear with PWM.. along with different panels, construction quality, etc. Its basically a lottery to buy a Qnix, you're not sure what you may end up with. Many people are not bothered by PWM (unless at low frequencies), I guess thats why they continue to make them.


Well I bought mine is 2014 I think it was...so hopefully it doesn't have PWM. Even if it does, it doesn't seem to bother me. Some people claims it gives them migrains but I think they might be over reacting. Who knows.


----------



## qdeadp

Hello

Might be a stupid question, but how can i make sure which (used) model am i purchasing if the seller isnt sure himself?
All he states, thats it is a qnix qx2710 model and thats it is from korea.
But i want to make sure its a legit version (the one that OC's), not the TRUE, SE or any of those kind.
Is it enough, that monitor only has 1 output and its supposed to be DVI-D?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qdeadp*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Might be a stupid question, but how can i make sure which (used) model am i purchasing if the seller isnt sure himself?
> All he states, thats it is a qnix qx2710 model and thats it is from korea.
> But i want to make sure its a legit version (the one that OC's), not the TRUE, SE or any of those kind.
> Is it enough, that monitor only has 1 output and its supposed to be DVI-D?


Yes, only the single input DVD-DL model will OC. Not sure what the deal with SE because I have a (2014) SE and it OC's to 120hz and has the orignial L02 panel as well.


----------



## JDubya8

After reading a few thousand posts I am still confused. Is the below qnix on Ebay the model I want? Seems to have the PLS screen and DVI Dual Link, but why so much cheaper?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-27-WQHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-PC-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?hash=item20d058e2e3:g:Ax8AAOSwEetV91r0

Thanks


----------



## yeadoge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDubya8*
> 
> After reading a few thousand posts I am still confused. Is the below qnix on Ebay the model I want? Seems to have the PLS screen and DVI Dual Link, but why so much cheaper?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-27-WQHD-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-PC-Monitor-Glossy-/140934439651?hash=item20d058e2e3:g:Ax8AAOSwEetV91r0
> 
> Thanks


Yeah that's the one, it just went on sale from $270 to $199 a week or two ago (right after I bought it...grumble)

BTW, mine came through from green-sum with no dead pixels or BLB (as far as I can tell...don't feel like researching this and realizing I have a problem) and overclocks to 120hz. Good luck!


----------



## yeadoge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> disable windows signature enforcement. Just google how to do that and it should work.
> 
> Just another note. I'm getting my 980ti sometime this week. Anything I should do to get at least 96hz out of the monitor and in games? if I need the driver where can I get it.


I have a 980 (not ti) and I couldn't overclock until I updated my nvidia driver to the latest update through the GeForce Experience application from the nvidia site. That and the Qnix driver but it sounds like you already know about that, if not it's in the FAQ at the beginning of this thread.


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeadoge*
> 
> Yeah that's the one, it just went on sale from $270 to $199 a week or two ago (right after I bought it...grumble)
> 
> BTW, mine came through from green-sum with no dead pixels or BLB (as far as I can tell...don't feel like researching this and realizing I have a problem) and overclocks to 120hz. Good luck!


In order to get it to overclock to 120hz, are you using the default DVI cable that came with it? I am and I only get to 96hz without artifacting. I heard that you can use a better DVI cable to get better overclocks. Have you had experience with this?

Also, do you know if your QNIX has PWM?


----------



## yeadoge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> In order to get it to overclock to 120hz, are you using the default DVI cable that came with it? I am and I only get to 96hz without artifacting. I heard that you can use a better DVI cable to get better overclocks. Have you had experience with this?
> 
> Also, do you know if your QNIX has PWM?


Yes I'm using the default cable. No, I don't know if it has PWM. Is that something I can check easily?


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeadoge*
> 
> Yes I'm using the default cable. No, I don't know if it has PWM. Is that something I can check easily?


I'm really not sure. I think my QNIX has it but I haven't noticed any headaches or noticeable flickering so I've been okay with it.


----------



## JDubya8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeadoge*
> 
> Yeah that's the one, it just went on sale from $270 to $199 a week or two ago (right after I bought it...grumble)
> 
> BTW, mine came through from green-sum with no dead pixels or BLB (as far as I can tell...don't feel like researching this and realizing I have a problem) and overclocks to 120hz. Good luck!


Is this the 02 or 07 panel? Can you not tell without opening it?


----------



## qdeadp

Hello once again

So i am buying this used qnix qx2710, no dead pixels no blb, overclocks to 110hz decently, but it has some sort of underscreen scratchlike marks on the bottom left side. Added some pictures and hope to get some feedback on that.

http://www.upload.ee/image/5294264/12179963_875034609246721_2001618516_n.jpg
http://www.upload.ee/image/5294268/12193246_875034669246715_1349593868_o.jpg

The screen itself is clean and no marks, its like under the screen ? not a crack or a scratch, but i dont know..


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qdeadp*
> 
> Hello once again
> 
> So i am buying this used qnix qx2710, no dead pixels no blb, overclocks to 110hz decently, but it has some sort of underscreen scratchlike marks on the bottom left side. Added some pictures and hope to get some feedback on that.
> 
> http://www.upload.ee/image/5294264/12179963_875034609246721_2001618516_n.jpg
> http://www.upload.ee/image/5294268/12193246_875034669246715_1349593868_o.jpg
> 
> The screen itself is clean and no marks, its like under the screen ? not a crack or a scratch, but i dont know..


Might be a dumb quesiton...but if you lower the overclock to 96hz or 60hz, does it go away?


----------



## qdeadp

Probably not a dumb question, but unfortunately it stays.


----------



## JDubya8

Never been so nervous buying a monitor.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeadoge*
> 
> I have a 980 (not ti) and I couldn't overclock until I updated my nvidia driver to the latest update through the GeForce Experience application from the nvidia site. That and the Qnix driver but it sounds like you already know about that, if not it's in the FAQ at the beginning of this thread.


ok got my new 980ti and must say impressed. I never thought this monitor was so smooth on 96hz. All i did was installed drivers for my 980ti and Qnix monitor and set the hz to 96hz. I can now even run my monitor 96hz all the time and my card downclocks properly.

For some reason even if I had 1 card and running bf4 on a graphics setting that allowed me to get constant 96fps it's wasn't as smooth as this card. I only tested bf4 so far and only on the test range.


----------



## kusje

Has anyone here managed to review the new QHD2730R?


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Hi guys, ran into some trouble with overclocking my xstar dp2710. Had it just over a year now and I've overclocked it before up to 96hz no problems. A few months ago I got a 980ti and haven't been able to get my 96hz oc back. In nvidia control panel I create a custom resolution, change the refresh rate to 96hz and run the test and apply the new config. Then I check on windows display settings and only if I uncheck hide refresh rates this monitor does not display does the 96hz appear. Applyed it, then went to http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping and it says its 60hz and games still vsync at 60hz as well. Any ideas? Am I missing a step? It was fine before with my R9 290s.


FIXED IT







With the help of you guys now thanks, had to disable windows signature reinforcement and then apply the driver and oc. Noob error but it fixed now.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kusje*
> 
> Has anyone here managed to review the new QHD2730R?


Aesthetically looks Nice! I haven't seen any reviews yet, or even owner reviews ... It's an "old" (no HDMI2.0) muti-input so I think the overclock ability may be hampered like the 2710 True10 ... BUT it's a genuine Samsung PLS panel and not that AH-VA crap that was in the Ture10. They also don't mention if it is "Flicker Free" (No PWM) and all the other Korean models that have "Low Blue-Light" option also state they are "Flicker Free"









With the 2795 at $50 less, it may be awhile till we find an "early adopter"









Descent description/spec page *HERE* ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> FIXED IT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the help of you guys now thanks, had to disable windows signature reinforcement and then apply the driver and oc. Noob error but it fixed now.


Nice







... The 980Ti is a great match for this panel! It put new life into the overall gaming experience for me


----------



## kusje

Thanks for the evaluation. The reason why I am considering this is because the crossover is vastly overpriced here in Singapore.

I am considering between the 2710(280Sgd or 200USD) and 2730R(400 Sgd or 285 USD) .

Both prices are for the perfect pixel models without the pivot. I might get a separate pivot vesa mount subsequently if needed.

My main worry here is that the 2730R is largely untested. I don't care too much about overclocking so image quality and input lag is my main concern with the display.

Another thing to note is that the seller seems to have sold 2 sets here in Singapore but there has been no reviews posted yet.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

I haven't looked at this thread in like a year.

This QHD2730R display looks too good to be true.

http://www.qnixbiz.com/?p=635


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> I haven't looked at this thread in like a year.
> 
> This QHD2730R display looks too good to be true.
> 
> http://www.qnixbiz.com/?p=635


Is that a future monitor or one for sale now? It does look good. How does PLS compare?
[edit]
It's on newegg now: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3PC3GM9981


----------



## kusje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MIGhunter*
> 
> Is that a future monitor or one for sale now? It does look good. How does PLS compare?
> [edit]
> It's on newegg now: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3PC3GM9981


For once, I am happy with the prices of electronics in Singapore (we've been paying much higher prices than the folks in USA even though most of the product is made here in Asia).

The 2730R is just 285 USD here while newegg lists it as 379 USD for you.

I think I will be placing an order for the 2730R later tonight so I might be able to post some feedback in a couple of days.

Take note though that I'm not usually fussy about the monitor and I haven't done any reviews before so what I post will be quite generic. I'll be glad do specific tests for you guys if someone tells me what to do.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kusje*
> 
> For once, I am happy with the prices of electronics in Singapore (we've been paying much higher prices than the folks in USA even though most of the product is made here in Asia).
> 
> The 2730R is just 285 USD here while newegg lists it as 379 USD for you.
> 
> I think I will be placing an order for the 2730R later tonight so I might be able to post some feedback in a couple of days.
> 
> *Take note though that I'm not usually fussy about the monitor and I haven't done any reviews before so what I post will be quite generic. I'll be glad do specific tests for you guys if someone tells me what to do.*


lol don't worry too much, I'm using monitors from 09 and 10, which is when I bought them, not when they came out, lol.

SAMSUNG 2343BWX High Glossy Black 23"
ASUS VH236H Black 23"


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> BUT it's a genuine Samsung PLS panel and not that AH-VA crap that was in the Ture10. They also don't mention if it is "Flicker Free" (No PWM) and all the other Korean models that have "Low Blue-Light" option also state they are "Flicker Free"


It's flicker free according to the official website and Playwares, and the QHD2703R has nearly half the contrast ratio of the revised Qnix Multi True 10, as well as slower pixel response times and an inner black bezel which ruins the perceived black depth (applies to all "frame-less" monitors) while the Qnix/X-Star Multi's have a matte grey bezel which vastly increase the perceived black depth. Both have a 1 frame/17ms delay, but the revised True 10 is definitely better.

Playwares Qnix QX2710 Multi True 10 Review & Playwares Qnix QHD2703R Review


----------



## lightsout

For people running amd cards do you keep your drivers current? I have mine from about a year ago because I didn't want to mess up the patch for running the monitor at 120hz.

Should I update?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> For people running amd cards do you keep your drivers current? I have mine from about a year ago because I didn't want to mess up the patch for running the monitor at 120hz.
> 
> Should I update?


I haven't updated mine in almost a year. Unless a driver update is required to play a newer game. I wouldn't..Just my two cents.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> For people running amd cards do you keep your drivers current? I have mine from about a year ago because I didn't want to mess up the patch for running the monitor at 120hz.
> 
> Should I update?
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't updated mine in almost a year. Unless a driver update is required to play a newer game. I wouldn't..Just my two cents.
Click to expand...

Thanks thats how I feel. Just seeing performance increases on the AMD side got me thinking.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Aesthetically looks Nice! I haven't seen any reviews yet, or even owner reviews ... It's an "old" (no HDMI2.0) muti-input so I think the overclock ability may be hampered like the 2710 True10 ... BUT it's a genuine Samsung PLS panel and not that AH-VA crap that was in the Ture10. They also don't mention if it is "Flicker Free" (No PWM) and all the other Korean models that have "Low Blue-Light" option also state they are "Flicker Free"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the 2795 at $50 less, it may be awhile till we find an "early adopter"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Descent description/spec page *HERE* ...
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... The 980Ti is a great match for this panel! It put new life into the overall gaming experience for me


OMW that monitor loks sexy but can it be overclocked. Although I will rather buy a gsync panel now as I run a 980 ti.


----------



## DiceAir

So I'm getting burned-in image that I noticed when I got my new 980 ti. Anything I can do to remedy this or at least not making it worse.


----------



## Zen00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA90V3FH4078

Thoughts? Feelings? I'd like to pull the trigger.


----------



## rogergamer

does the QX2710 LED Evolution II use PWM dimming?


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> does the QX2710 LED Evolution II use PWM dimming?


So I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure that they do. I don't see what the big deal is though. Mine has it (I think) and I've never gotten one headache or seen any flickering at all.


----------



## Sengir

Hi everyone,

I've tried everything to overclock my monitor but without success. I've searched the forums and in the 2000 pages of this thread but could not find any solution working for me. I have a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II

- I'm on windows 10, using the NVCP to try and bump the refresh rate.
- I'm using a Dual DVI cable
- I installed the driver mentionned in the guide (http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23568)
My device went from "Generic PnP Monitor" to "QX2710"
- The "enable resolutions not exposed by the display" checkbox is thicked
- I even tried the patcher for AMD cards found at http://www.monitortests.com/atikmdag-patcher-1.3.4.zip
- I tried booting in safe mode and uninstalling the whole device and starting fresh with the qnix driver, no luck

I always get the same error message, even at 61 Hz:









I'm desperate. Can anyone help please?
Thank you all.


----------



## 2010ngojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sengir*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I've tried everything to overclock my monitor but without success. I've searched the forums and in the 2000 pages of this thread but could not find any solution working for me. I have a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II
> 
> - I'm on windows 10, using the NVCP to try and bump the refresh rate.
> - I'm using a Dual DVI cable
> - I installed the driver mentionned in the guide (http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23568)
> My device went from "Generic PnP Monitor" to "QX2710"
> - The "enable resolutions not exposed by the display" checkbox is thicked
> - I even tried the patcher for AMD cards found at http://www.monitortests.com/atikmdag-patcher-1.3.4.zip
> - I tried booting in safe mode and uninstalling the whole device and starting fresh with the qnix driver, no luck
> 
> I always get the same error message, even at 61 Hz:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm desperate. Can anyone help please?
> Thank you all.


First of all, what card to you have?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sengir*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I've tried everything to overclock my monitor but without success. I've searched the forums and in the 2000 pages of this thread but could not find any solution working for me. I have a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II
> 
> - I'm on windows 10, using the NVCP to try and bump the refresh rate.
> - I'm using a Dual DVI cable
> - I installed the driver mentionned in the guide (http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23568)
> My device went from "Generic PnP Monitor" to "QX2710"
> - The "enable resolutions not exposed by the display" checkbox is thicked
> - I even tried the patcher for AMD cards found at http://www.monitortests.com/atikmdag-patcher-1.3.4.zip
> - I tried booting in safe mode and uninstalling the whole device and starting fresh with the qnix driver, no luck
> 
> I always get the same error message, even at 61 Hz:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm desperate. Can anyone help please?
> Thank you all.


using amd patcher to overclock this monitor with Nvidia card.







maybe you need to use Nvidia patcher. What I did was installed latest driver and created custom resolution and installed monitor drivers and it worked.

Also funny that it's showing 1920x1440 as recommended resolution


----------



## bluedevil

Omg....just mounted my Qnix to a Ergotech Freedom Arm....wow I love the combo!


----------



## Sengir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2010ngojo*
> 
> First of all, what card to you have?


omg I tried to include as much info as possible in my post; I forget the ******* card I use.

I have a Gigabyte GTX 980 Windforce G1 Gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> using amd patcher to overclock this monitor with Nvidia card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe you need to use Nvidia patcher. What I did was installed latest driver and created custom resolution and installed monitor drivers and it worked.
> 
> Also funny that it's showing 1920x1440 as recommended resolution


In the guide, the patcher is in the section "AMD USER ONLY", reading the guide there's no patcher needed for nvidia users, or am I drunk ?

Where's that nvidia patcher?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sengir*
> 
> omg I tried to include as much info as possible in my post; I forget the ******* card I use.
> 
> I have a Gigabyte GTX 980 Windforce G1 Gaming
> In the guide, the patcher is in the section "AMD USER ONLY", reading the guide there's no patcher needed for nvidia users, or am I drunk ?
> 
> Where's that nvidia patcher?


You don't need the patcher. Try reinstalling your driver use the following tool to remove driver first using safe mode. It will as k to boot in safe mode when starting the app and then click yes and follow instructions to remove driver

http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/download/DDU%20v15.5.1.0.exe


----------



## 2010ngojo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> You don't need the patcher. Try reinstalling your driver use the following tool to remove driver first using safe mode. It will as k to boot in safe mode when starting the app and then click yes and follow instructions to remove driver
> 
> http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/download/DDU%20v15.5.1.0.exe


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sengir*
> 
> Where's that nvidia patcher?


I think he means the driver to the monitor for Nvidia card users.

On a separate note.

"ToastyX quote ...
If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
I will add that all Nvidia SLI+ users are still using the full patch for any overclock over 60Hz, IIRC."

Does this still apply? I'm using 970 2x sli.


----------



## OneGun

No it doesn't use PWM


----------



## OneGun

Only Oc monitor when gaming


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> No it doesn't use PWM


Pretty sure it actually does use PWM.. If I look at the monitor through my Cell Phone camera, I can see the flickering.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Pretty sure it actually does use PWM.. If I look at the monitor through my Cell Phone camera, I can see the flickering.


Mine Don't do that..Crappy Camera?

This guy also says no
http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html


----------



## Zen00

Anyone know where that thread for borrowing a monitor calibrator is?


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Mine Don't do that..Crappy Camera?
> 
> This guy also says no
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls.html


I mean it's possible that I got one with PWM and you didn't. I bought mine is 2014. When did you buy yours? And I don't think it's a crappy camera? It's a Samsung Galaxy s4 camera. And I tested it on my monitors at work and it doesn't flicker like it does on my monitor at home so something is definitely up with that.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> I mean it's possible that I got one with PWM and you didn't. I bought mine is 2014. When did you buy yours? And I don't think it's a crappy camera? It's a Samsung Galaxy s4 camera. And I tested it on my monitors at work and it doesn't flicker like it does on my monitor at home so something is definitely up with that.


try turning up brightness


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> try turning up brightness


No. The Color Sustainer profile that I downloaded specifically says to keep the brightness at "12 clicks from the lowest." I don't care that it has PWM (or whatever is going on). I don't notice it at all during normal use. I've gamed on it for like a day straight and didn't notice any headaches and the flickering is only evident through a camera up close. I know some people swear to god that PWM gives them migrains and naussea but I honestly haven't noticed a single problem with it.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> No. The Color Sustainer profile that I downloaded specifically says to keep the brightness at "12 clicks from the lowest." I don't care that it has PWM (or whatever is going on). I don't notice it at all during normal use. I've gamed on it for like a day straight and didn't notice any headaches and the flickering is only evident through a camera up close. I know some people swear to god that PWM gives them migrains and naussea but I honestly haven't noticed a single problem with it.


I notice it on mine on camera at 5 clicks or lower brightness.Is yours OCed right now?I wonder that has anything to do with it..OCing mine to test


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I notice it on mine on camera at 5 clicks or lower brightness.Is yours OCed right now?I wonder that has anything to do with it..OCing mine to test


Oh. I didn't even think about it being OC'd. Yea, it's OC'd to 96hz.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Oh. I didn't even think about it being OC'd. Yea, it's OC'd to 96hz.


Ya mine only does under 5 clicks..Weird!!


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ya mine only does under 5 clicks..Weird!!


Yea..I mean clearly it doesn't bother either of us so that's good! I think PWM only bothers some people. Not sure why. People have said not to buy this monitor anymore because of PWM but I honestly still think it's a good buy if you can get it for under $300. Not sure what all the fuss is about. What do you have yours OC'd to? Mine gets artifacts over 96hz. I am using the STOCK DVI cable though. I'm wondering if I can get a better overclock with a better DVI cable but I doubt it...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Yea..I mean clearly it doesn't bother either of us so that's good! I think PWM only bothers some people. Not sure why. People have said not to buy this monitor anymore because of PWM but I honestly still think it's a good buy if you can get it for under $300. Not sure what all the fuss is about. What do you have yours OC'd to? Mine gets artifacts over 96hz. I am using the STOCK DVI cable though. I'm wondering if I can get a better overclock with a better DVI cable but I doubt it...


I get up to 137 then green lines.I only run it at 120hz when gaming and 60 the rest time..Ya try another cable they are really cheap from Monoprice.com


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I get up to 137 then green lines.I only run it at 120hz when gaming and 60 the rest time..Ya try another cable they are really cheap from Monoprice.com


Are you using stock cable or did you buy/use a different one?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Are you using stock cable or did you buy/use a different one?


The stock one works better in my case but I did buy another one also.Are you using CRU to OC?


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> The stock one works better in my case but I did buy another one also.Are you using CRU to OC?


Yup! I am using CRU.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Yup! I am using CRU.


Using LCD Reduced in the timings?


----------



## Luxer

Just got mine today. 120hz out of the box no problem, zero dead pixels, and minimal backlight bleed.

I even tried 144hz and had zero artifacts but I keep it at 110hz to keep the pixel clock at 143hz. Really happy with it.

This is the one I purchased: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1GM6846

The only problem I had was jamming the AC into the US converter, it requires a lot of force.


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Using LCD Reduced in the timings?


Yea...guess mine will only do 96hz. Oh well. Not bad. Still better than the standard 60fps. I'll give the other DVI cable a try over the weekend.

Did you change anything in the timings besides the "LCD REDUCED" option?


----------



## Sengir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> You don't need the patcher. Try reinstalling your driver use the following tool to remove driver first using safe mode. It will as k to boot in safe mode when starting the app and then click yes and follow instructions to remove driver
> 
> http://www.wagnardmobile.com/DDU/download/DDU%20v15.5.1.0.exe


I did a clean insteall using DDU, still no luck, same result as before the monitor cant even handle 61 hz:


http://jlmultimedia.net/pics/qnix2710_oc.jpg

Anyone has an idea? I'm desperate here :\


----------



## Luxer

The AC adapter runs crazy hot, I almost burned my finger. Are any other 12v monitor adapters confirmed to work with it?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sengir*
> 
> I did a clean insteall using DDU, still no luck, same result as before the monitor cant even handle 61 hz:
> 
> 
> http://jlmultimedia.net/pics/qnix2710_oc.jpg
> 
> Anyone has an idea? I'm desperate here :\


Why do i see so many yellow marks in your device manager. Did you make sure you install all motherboard drivers ETC. And you don't need the patcher as you have 980.

I have a 980ti and never installed the patcher. I recently upgraded from r9 280x so this is what I did.

1. I made sure my motherboard drivers was installed
2. Used DDU to remove old AMD drivers
3. Installed Nvidia Drivers.
4. Installed qnix drivers
5. Go into Nvidia control panel and add cutom resolution for 96Hz and it worked.

Also make sure your windows is up to date. Can you also maybe link the seller you bought it from?


----------



## vasyltheonly

After installing the new drivers released on Wednesday I can't overclock the my Xstar anymore. Sigh


----------



## Pronounta

One question. Are there still good overclockable Korea-monitors? If yes, which one is the best?

As a (more or less) competitive CSGO and Osu! (rhythm game)-player, how would the Korea-monitors compare to the BenQ XL2411Z? I have the feeling that the Korea-monitors have a pretty bad input-lag...
Currently looking at X-Star and Qnix.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pronounta*
> 
> One question. Are there still good overclockable Korea-monitors? If yes, which one is the best?
> 
> As a (more or less) competitive CSGO and Osu! (rhythm game)-player, how would the Korea-monitors compare to the BenQ XL2411Z? I have the feeling that the Korea-monitors have a pretty bad input-lag...
> Currently looking at X-Star and Qnix.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


The single input stripped down no OSD style Qnix/X-Star monitors will have excellent response times, as well as overclockability to further reduce input-lag. However do not buy the ones labled "Multi", as they have different boards that can not be overclocked and have significant lag.


----------



## Pronounta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> The single input stripped down no OSD style Qnix/X-Star monitors will have excellent response times, as well as overclockability to further reduce input-lag. However do not buy the ones labled "Multi", as they have different boards that can not be overclocked and have significant lag.


Good, okay. Thanks








Gonna buy this one when I have the money then I guess


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pronounta*
> 
> Good, okay. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna buy this one when I have the money then I guess


This review should give you an idea of how the panel performs as far as colors and such go, since they use essentially the same panel with the different control boards. So take the lag/response times with a grain of salt. Anyways it performs fairly well, although pretty bad contrast ratio, but that' from being a A- grade panel.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm


----------



## Pronounta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> This review should give you an idea of how the panel performs as far as colors and such go, since they use essentially the same panel with the different control boards. So take the lag/response times with a grain of salt. Anyways it performs fairly well, although pretty bad contrast ratio, but that' from being a A- grade panel.
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm


So, the input lag ouldn't be as bad as seen in that review when I'd buy one of these monitors?

An what about the frame dropping? Heard quite often that these monitors tend to drop many frames when overclocked...


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pronounta*
> 
> So, the input lag ouldn't be as bad as seen in that review when I'd buy one of these monitors?
> 
> An what about the frame dropping? Heard quite often that these monitors tend to drop many frames when overclocked...


Most monitors won't experience frame dropping until you go over 96 Hz, if at all if you're lucky. REMEMBER the key word, "lucky", it is a lottery after all with these monitors.


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> Most monitors won't experience frame dropping until you go over 96 Hz, if at all if you're lucky. REMEMBER the key word, "lucky", it is a lottery after all with these monitors.


I agree with your "lottery" comparison. It's the same with GPUs and overclockability. I was super excited to overclock mine to 120hz, although it artifacts at anything over 96hz so I suppose 96hz is where I will leave it. Still better than 60hz and it's a great looking panel and I love the 1440p resolution. Overall I'm happy with my purchase.


----------



## Pronounta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> I agree with your "lottery" comparison. It's the same with GPUs and overclockability. I was super excited to overclock mine to 120hz, although it artifacts at anything over 96hz so I suppose 96hz is where I will leave it. Still better than 60hz and it's a great looking panel and I love the 1440p resolution. Overall I'm happy with my purchase.


Gotta ask one more thing.
Should I buy the BenQ 144hz thing or the Korea monitor for competitive gaming? Having that great panel sounds so nice, but what if I can't get above 96hz?
Damn ,this is hard









There is another idea I have in mind: Buying a 21:9 monitor for ~300€.
Okay, not a good idea I guess







. But could anybody say something to that idea? How I already said a billion times, it is for competitive gaming :ugly:


----------



## Pronounta

This was an accident


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pronounta*
> 
> Gotta ask one more thing.
> Should I buy the BenQ 144hz thing or the Korea monitor for competitive gaming? Having that great panel sounds so nice, but what if I can't get above 96hz?
> Damn ,this is hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another idea I have in mind: Buying a 21:9 monitor for ~300€.
> Okay, not a good idea I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But could anybody say something to that idea? How I already said a billion times, it is for competitive gaming :ugly:


On Newegg they're currently clearancing Qnix monitors for $200, so it's an insanely good bargain, even with the lottery. However for competitive play, if you really really are competitive, I'd suggest buying a 144 Hz TN panel monitor. One of the ones with 1 ms response (in review) so check out some of the other options on TFTcentral.


----------



## swunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA90V3FH4078
> 
> Thoughts? Feelings? I'd like to pull the trigger.


Ordered that exact one, got here today (3 days early). Looks great to me, coming from a 7 year old 19x12 Samsung TN panel. No dead pixels, OC'd to 100hz easily after installing the driver and creating a custom resolution (Nvidia). 120 gave me green lines but 100 works for me, still way better than 60hz. I'll say coming from 60hz, I didn't know what to expect but everyone is right -- its totally worth it. Everything is so... smooth. Love it.

I downloaded Color Sustainer and tried a few profiles but they looked like crap to me. The best profile for me was the default 'LINEAR' profile on the program. Is that even a change to the default of the monitor? I'll be embarrassed if it isn't but it definitely looks good to me. Eye strain is gone and the colors 'pop' like I've seen on other IPS screens compared to TN.


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swunder*
> 
> Just got mine today, that exact one. Looks good to me, just set it to 96HZ.
> Ordered that exact one, got here today (3 days early). Looks great to me, coming from a 7 year old 19x12 Samsung TN panel. No dead pixels, OC'd to 100hz easily after installing the driver and creating a custom resolution (Nvidia). 120 gave me green lines but 100 works for me, still way better than 60hz. I'll say coming from 60hz, I didn't know what to expect but everyone is right -- its totally worth it. Everything is so... smooth. Love it.
> 
> I downloaded Color Sustainer and tried a few profiles but they looked like crap to me. The best profile for me was the default 'LINEAR' profile on the program. Is that even a change to the default of the monitor? I'll be embarrassed if it isn't but it definitely looks good to me. Eye strain is gone and the colors 'pop' like I've seen on other IPS screens compared to TN.


I ended up buying one too, it should arrive today! Also all my computer components arrived today as well, so this weekend I'm building a new computer and streaming it on the new Creative Twitch channel. I'm still wondering are they still doing the loaning out of a monitor calibrator program?


----------



## Pronounta

Can't buy that, I'm out of money and live in germany...


----------



## Sengir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Why do i see so many yellow marks in your device manager. Did you make sure you install all motherboard drivers ETC. And you don't need the patcher as you have 980.
> 
> I have a 980ti and never installed the patcher. I recently upgraded from r9 280x so this is what I did.
> 
> 1. I made sure my motherboard drivers was installed
> 2. Used DDU to remove old AMD drivers
> 3. Installed Nvidia Drivers.
> 4. Installed qnix drivers
> 5. Go into Nvidia control panel and add cutom resolution for 96Hz and it worked.
> 
> Also make sure your windows is up to date. Can you also maybe link the seller you bought it from?


I do have my motherboard chipset drivers installed correctly.

However, my windows is not up to date... is this a known problem? some w10 versions are not able to overclock monitors or what?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA90V3FH4078
> 
> Thoughts? Feelings? I'd like to pull the trigger.


Sorry I see you ordered already ... But if you don't suffer from PWM (I do







) then IMHO your getting the "steal" of the century, AND it's a "Glossy"! This panel will run circles around any TN panel out there including the ROG Swift PG278Q, yea it has GSync but the pixel inversion and the awful AG coating, not to mention TN ruined it for me. I went through 3 of them and finally realized I was fooling myself that GSync was worth a $4-$500 premium with the crappy Swift TN/AG coated panel







... I have also been following the XB270HU and PG279Q since the beginning and their QC is so bad, I'm not even going to bother, AUOptronics panel quality is an utter FAIL IMO for the so-called premium gaming monitors ... especially for $800-$1000 bucks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogergamer*
> 
> does the QX2710 LED Evolution II use PWM dimming?


I'll keep it short, but all the newer panels seem to have PWM at normal brightness. One guy said his did not but he never proved it with screenshots. Even back in the day, 2+yrs ago it was a lottery if your panel had PWM or not? We never figured out how to tell which ones would or wouldn't without testing them in person. I suffer from PWM effects and can also see the very slight "blurring" it causes in fast action FPS, BUT IMHO too many people make to big of a deal about it! If you want an inexpensive overclockable Korean Without PWM then your only safe choice is the Crossover 2795, but it doesn't come in Glossy







... thread *HERE* ....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> So I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure that they do. I don't see what the big deal is though. Mine has it (I think) and I've never gotten one headache or seen any flickering at all.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> *Yea..I mean clearly it doesn't bother either of us so that's good! I think PWM only bothers some people. Not sure why. People have said not to buy this monitor anymore because of PWM but I honestly still think it's a good buy if you can get it for under $300.* Not sure what all the fuss is about. What do you have yours OC'd to? Mine gets artifacts over 96hz. I am using the STOCK DVI cable though. I'm wondering if I can get a better overclock with a better DVI cable but I doubt it...
Click to expand...

+R ... you are right







... AND even most people that suffer PWM effects Can't see the actual "flickering" either, but for us unlucky few, we can feel the effects within 10-20mins or sooner









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I notice it on mine on camera at 5 clicks or lower brightness.Is yours OCed right now?I wonder that has anything to do with it..OCing mine to test


+R yep







... simple camera view test is quite accurate, but some people won't see it if their brightness is set to eye-burning 100%







... Overclocking the monitor has nothing to do with PWM









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luxer*
> 
> Just got mine today. 120hz out of the box no problem, zero dead pixels, and minimal backlight bleed.
> 
> I even tried 144hz and had zero artifacts but I keep it at 110hz to keep the pixel clock at 143hz. Really happy with it.
> 
> This is the one I purchased: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1GM6846
> 
> The only problem I had was jamming the AC into the US converter, it requires a lot of force.


Nice!







.... BUT 144Hz? Wow! There are a few of us that can push 130Hz but I'd like to see the frame drop/NVCP screenies for 144Hz









Also just ditch the converter/and Korean plug and use a std 3-prong power cable ... see screenie










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luxer*
> 
> The AC adapter runs crazy hot, I almost burned my finger. Are any other 12v monitor adapters confirmed to work with it?


That is a classic sign of future problems ... guys had no complaints with these replacements ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-Adapter-For-CWT-PAA060F-Channel-Well-Technology-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-/110884979882?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item19d14284aa

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-5A-60W-100-240-V-DC-Power-Supply-Adapter-For-LED-Strip-5050-3528-RGB-Gift-/221224244276?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item3381fe1434

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> *Why do i see so many yellow marks in your device manager.* Did you make sure you install all motherboard drivers ETC. *And you don't need the patcher as you have 980*.
> 
> I have a 980ti and never installed the patcher. I recently upgraded from r9 280x so this is what I did.
> 
> 1. I made sure my motherboard drivers was installed
> 2. Used DDU to remove old AMD drivers
> 3. Installed Nvidia Drivers.
> 4. Installed qnix drivers
> 5. Go into Nvidia control panel and add cutom resolution for 96Hz and it worked.
> 
> Also make sure your windows is up to date. Can you also maybe link the seller you bought it from?


THIS^^^^ +R









@Singir ... try only one monitor (QNIX) while testing ... if your running W10 try rolling back to Win7/8.1 or a fresh "Updated" clean install of Win10.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> The single input stripped down no OSD style Qnix/X-Star monitors will have excellent response times, as well as overclockability to further reduce input-lag. However do not buy the ones labled "Multi", as they have different boards that can not be overclocked and have significant lag.


+R ... concise/accurate explanation









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> This review should give you an idea of how the panel performs as far as colors and such go, since they use essentially the same panel with the different control boards. So take the lag/response times with a grain of salt. Anyways it performs fairly well, although pretty bad contrast ratio, but that' from being a A- grade panel.
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm


WUT? The True10 multi's use a completely different panel (AH-VA), that TfT review does nothing for the single-input PLS panels. A big gripe I've had with the usually stellar TFT reviews is they NEVER did a proper review of the QNIX/X-Star single-input PLS or the Cat2B. If they did it would show then to be extremely low input-lag (as you say) like the XB270HU. More info *HERE* ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pronounta*
> 
> One question. Are there still good overclockable Korea-monitors? If yes, which one is the best?
> 
> As a (more or less) competitive CSGO and Osu! (rhythm game)-player, how would the Korea-monitors compare to the BenQ XL2411Z? I have the feeling that the Korea-monitors have a pretty bad input-lag...
> Currently looking at X-Star and Qnix.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pronounta*
> 
> Gotta ask one more thing.
> Should I buy the BenQ 144hz thing or the Korea monitor for competitive gaming? Having that great panel sounds so nice, but what if I can't get above 96hz?
> Damn ,this is hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another idea I have in mind: Buying a 21:9 monitor for ~300€.
> Okay, not a good idea I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But could anybody say something to that idea? How I already said a billion times, it is for competitive gaming :ugly:
Click to expand...

1) best deal ... but PWM? QNIX Single-input PLS (NO multi-input models)
2) No PWM, but rarely gets over 96-110Hz (No Glossy) Crossover 2795 ... see link/info above









For strictly "serious" competitive FPS go with the BenQ ... but if you do anything else (RPG immersion/video-photo work?) your going to miss IPS bigtime! Not to mention sub-std 1080p .. Yikes








I really couldn't even stand the 1440p/TN ROG Swift after 1440p/IPS Glossy ... but if you've never experienced it do your self a favor and don't, you'll forever hate TN much less 1080p/TN, even in competitive gaming, it's also why so many, were so disappointed with the XB270HU/PG279Q it looked to be the best of all worlds but the screen quality failed ... catch up on *THIS* thread if you want









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> Most monitors won't experience frame dropping until you go over 96 Hz, if at all if you're lucky. REMEMBER the key word, "lucky", it is a lottery after all with these monitors.


I've yet to see the QNIX QX2710 "Single-input" / PLS models ever drop frames when overclocking. They typically just show green-line artifacting when they reach their limits









EDIT: Wow that was "Loooong" hope you find it helpful!








And Thanks to NCX for the update +R


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> WUT? The True10 multi's use a completely different panel (AH-VA), that TfT review does nothing for the single-input PLS panels. A big gripe I've had with the usually stellar TFT reviews is they NEVER did a proper review of the QNIX/X-Star single-input PLS or the Cat2B. If they did it would show then to be extremely low input-lag (as you say) like the XB270HU. More info *HERE* ...


My bad, thought I read that it was a PLS screen in the review.


----------



## Zen00

Okay, just got mine, where are the drivers for this thing?


----------



## Bluemustang

Just picked up myself a QNIX QX2710 for $200. About the 120hz how is that possible via DL DVI-D? Aren't those cables only 9.9Gbits?

Can i get away with 15 feet? And should i go with 28AWG monoprice or will something a little cheaper work fine? http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B00BMRSDIQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1446868727&sr=1-1&keywords=dvi&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A7800972011 such as that?


----------



## Zen00

Okay, finished setting up and checking the overclocking. So as it turns out my monitor will do up to 96 Hz, however once go beyond to 108 Hz colors begin to corrupt, and at 120 Hz I green bar. Oh well.









Anyways, nice IPS monitor with low lag, tested with that UFO thing and a high speed camera and got a nice smooth smear just like the "good" image. Guess the only real thing I have to be annoyed at here is this crap stand. :/

Seriously why is this monitor leaning away from me, and it's not centered either, guess I'll have to buy a stand, any independent desk stands with two arms for a good price?


----------



## ChocoSnake

Hi guys, just discovered this thread. Unfortunately, I have a QX2710 single-input with some problems.

To make a long story short, my friend bought it a while ago, overclocked it, and at some point it no longer turned on for him. I think he might have used the non-Nvidia control panel way to overclock. He assumed it was dead and gave it to me. He did realize after that he never actually tried to run it non-overclocked, so I tried to get it to work, and it turned on, but it looks pretty bad. Using the nvidia control panel, it seemed like it was already at default resolution and refresh rate. Overclocking doesn't really fix anything.

It looks like this.

http://i.imgur.com/UQ4O1Ca.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Sr4bSWZ.jpg

It's just a bunch of colors and scanning horizontal lines, and the patterns and color will change every couple of seconds. The patterns and colors will change if I turn it off and then on again too.

Is this the PCB that's messed up? I've actually taken it apart and I don't see anything that looks too bad on the PCB, but then again I don't really have a trained eye.


----------



## Geglamash

Ran my QNIX at 120hz for the past 2.5 years.
Died on me last night. RIP.


----------



## Techgmr

Hello,

I seem to be running into an issue. No matter what I do, I cannot get my Qnix to go above 60hz... Previously I have been running it at 96hz without issues for over a year and a half. I have been noticing I was not able to select 96hz anymore in some games, but I finally confirmed that it is only recognizing 60hz no matter what. It accepts my custom profile in the control panel, but it still only shows 60hz. Previously all I did was set it in the control panel and it worked when I went to the "test" sites to see if it registered 96hz without skipping, which it did. Now even trying the qnix driver and Nvidia patch etc, I cannot get it beyond 60.

I'm running SLI 980 Ti's

Any Ideas?

Thanks.


----------



## Luxer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... BUT 144Hz? Wow! There are a few of us that can push 130Hz but I'd like to see the frame drop/NVCP screenies for 144Hz
> 
> Also just ditch the converter/and Korean plug and use a std 3-prong power cable


Just leaving it on automatic I get this, get no dropped frames after taking 5 or so pics:



And as for the 3-prong will anyone pretty much do? Have one from an old monitor that says 300v SJT on it.


----------



## Firequake

Quote:


> *pockoface* Hi,
> 
> I just saw your post about the n-mofset burnt the 540N-3811G,
> I have the same board as you and recently my screen just stopped working and all I get from it is just a popping noise from the speaker and a blinking blue light.
> I took the board out to check if there's any blown capacitor and found nothing and the boom! found your post and I feel lile you can be my saviour!
> So... How do you check for a burnt n-mofset?
> 
> Thanks,
> A very desperate man wishing for his monitor back.
> 
> P.S.
> 
> I found this post too, it's about n-mofset but not the same board though
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1471025/problems-solutions-crossover-catleap-qnix-shimiam-27-2560x1440-monitors-bought-online-how-long-did-it-last


Quote:


> *Me*
> Hi,
> thanks for contacting me, i know what you feel... anyway my monitor was used so i sent it back to the seller for a refund "long story", but he gave me a wrong address and no more reply so there is a possibility that i'll get the money back and a monitor to repair "thanks paypal" so please keep in touch. Having said that, i didn't have the exact same problem since my monitor didn't actually turn on after the mosfet broke emitting smoke, initially i too expected a blown capacitor and took me some time to find out the problem so look closely for it. Sadly i didn't find the mosfet specifics and there is also not guaranteed that replacing the said component "or another one" will fix the problem, so the best thing to do would be finding a replacing pcb or if you still can ask for a replacement one if the monitor is still in warranty.
> 
> I really hope that we will find a solution, tell me if you find something.


somebody can help us please? is likely that what we need is a replacement pcb for the right price.


----------



## Firequake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Ran my QNIX at 120hz for the past 2.5 years.
> Died on me last night. RIP.


Come with us and join the Official Broken Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club!


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firequake*
> 
> Come with us and join the Official Broken Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club!


One of the reasons I am scared to buy one :/


----------



## jdstock76

Speaking of which
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tim Drake*
> 
> One of the reasons I am scared to buy one :/


Don't be. Been running mine solidly for a year at 96hz. Granted it's only a year but it's a great deal. Way better than the $800 for the Acer or Asus.


----------



## TooYellow

Hi, I'm trying to set the default refresh rate to the overclocked rate. Before with an ATI card I was using the CRU which could set the oc rate as default. I cant seem to do it with the Nvidia control panel. Custom refreshes work fine but some games seem to pick up the native 60hz rate and I cant get it to do higher. Is there a trick to setting this?

Thanks!

Win 10 x64
Qnix 2710
GTX 780Ti

I'm sorry if this has been covered before but my search didn't yield the answer.

Edit: interesting, it seems like the INF got unistalled when I upgraded to Win 10. I'll updated that and report back.

Edit: yep, that was it. I had to disable signature verification and reinstall the inf after the win10 update


----------



## JDubya8

Was able to get 110hz on my new monitor w/ 980ti.


----------



## Tim Drake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Speaking of which
> Don't be. Been running mine solidly for a year at 96hz. Granted it's only a year but it's a great deal. Way better than the $800 for the Acer or Asus.


Yeah, i'm talking long term.

I was meaning between like 3+ years


----------



## Death2Consoles

I got it yesterday, it worked flawlessly and was glorious for a good ten hours. This morning, I had weird issues. The monitor and PC were off all night, not sure what could have changed.

It's at 60Hz, it only does this intermittently but once it starts I have to cycle the power, and sometimes that doesn't help either. It does it in the BIOS as well as in Windows, and it happens on both of my computers.

I've contacted the seller but does anyone have any suggestions? I'd hate to wait for a replacement from the seller and I got a perfect display with super minimal backlight bleed which I think I can fix if I open up the panel. I wonder if I could get him to send me a replacement PCB, since the display seems fine otherwise and worked perfectly yesterday.. Not sure what else the problem might be. My brother got me another DVI cable from work but I won't be able to try it until tomorrow.


----------



## rsturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got it yesterday, it worked flawlessly and was glorious for a good ten hours. This morning, I had weird issues. The monitor and PC were off all night, not sure what could have changed.
> 
> It's at 60Hz, it only does this intermittently but once it starts I have to cycle the power, and sometimes that doesn't help either. It does it in the BIOS as well as in Windows, and it happens on both of my computers.
> 
> I've contacted the seller but does anyone have any suggestions? I'd hate to wait for a replacement from the seller and I got a perfect display with super minimal backlight bleed which I think I can fix if I open up the panel. I wonder if I could get him to send me a replacement PCB, since the display seems fine otherwise and worked perfectly yesterday.. Not sure what else the problem might be. My brother got me another DVI cable from work but I won't be able to try it until tomorrow.


Sounds like it could be a power brick issue also. Check if you're using an adapter that the connections are seated... mine come out. If it's a power issue no foul, would be a shame to have to exchange a near perfect panel.


----------



## Death2Consoles

I was also thinking it might be a power brick issue since it was fine all night and then this morning it began having intermittent problems.. I'm using it right now without issue other than a screen flicker (gets dark for a few ms) every few minutes. My power brick doesn't get very warm, I want to test it with my DMM but I have my work vehicle right now and my multi meter is in my personal car. I'll check it with a DMM tomorrow and report back if there are any voltage issues. I'll also test with a new dvi dual link cable.

Thanks for the input


----------



## Death2Consoles

Weird.. I played Trine for an hour before the issue cropped up again. The screen is wigging out as I type this. It's a sad day.


----------



## Bluemustang

Finally received my QNIX QX2710 from newegg and much to my dismay the panel is practically free floating inside the bezel. Loose (panel not snapped together) and shaking around causing some pretty bad light bleed and who knows what else.

However there are zero dead pixels.

Should i RMA this or risk trying to fix it myself?


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Finally received my QNIX QX2710 from newegg and much to my dismay the panel is practically free floating inside the bezel. Loose (panel not snapped together) and shaking around causing some pretty bad light bleed and who knows what else.
> 
> However there are zero dead pixels.
> 
> Should i RMA this or risk trying to fix it myself?


My panel also is not completely "attached" to the frame and has some light bleed, but no dead pixels. I think having no dead pixels is the most important and lucky aspect of buying this monitor. Just try playing some games with the monitor and see if you REALLY care about the light bleed. I bet you'll be surprised how little you notice it after a while. Also, not sure if sellers will RMA for Light Bleed. They probably won't. You could try to open it and fix it yourself but I have no idea how to do that.

Good luck!


----------



## Yvese

Anyone else unable to OC after installing the latest Nvidia drivers? ( 358.91 ). Test keeps failing in NVCP when I try 96hz which was working fine before I updated.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> My panel also is not completely "attached" to the frame and has some light bleed, but no dead pixels. I think having no dead pixels is the most important and lucky aspect of buying this monitor. Just try playing some games with the monitor and see if you REALLY care about the light bleed. I bet you'll be surprised how little you notice it after a while. Also, not sure if sellers will RMA for Light Bleed. They probably won't. You could try to open it and fix it yourself but I have no idea how to do that.
> 
> Good luck!


It's not really about the light bleed so much as it is the free floating panel inside the bezel. If it's like that who knows what else got damaged in shipping. The thing slides up down left right like half an inch.

And while it was a seller it was a seller on newegg so they must abide by neweggs rules.

Any other opinions on what we should do?

PS: There was also black specks/particles all over the monitor cause there was no plastic peel off attached to the monitor as i've seen in other reviews (though the monitor was inside a plastic bag, just no plastic peel off attached to monitor). Still looks physically fine, just seems substandard not to do that though.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Did you order it from DaySale on Newegg?


----------



## Bluemustang

Uh, yep. Why?


----------



## vasyltheonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> Anyone else unable to OC after installing the latest Nvidia drivers? ( 358.91 ). Test keeps failing in NVCP when I try 96hz which was working fine before I updated.


If you're using 2 monitors only use this one. Overclock it and then switch back to 2 screens. That's what seemed to work for me.


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Uh, yep. Why?


Probably just wondering to see if other people have complaints from that seller, which would put them on a blacklist eventually.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Finally received my QNIX QX2710 from newegg and much to my dismay the panel is practically free floating inside the bezel. Loose (panel not snapped together) and shaking around causing some pretty bad light bleed and who knows what else.
> 
> However there are zero dead pixels.
> 
> Should i RMA this or risk trying to fix it myself?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> It's not really about the light bleed so much as it is the free floating panel inside the bezel. If it's like that who knows what else got damaged in shipping. The thing slides up down left right like half an inch.
> 
> And while it was a seller it was a seller on newegg so they must abide by neweggs rules.
> 
> Any other opinions on what we should do?
> 
> PS: There was also black specks/particles all over the monitor cause there was no plastic peel off attached to the monitor as i've seen in other reviews (though the monitor was inside a plastic bag, just no plastic peel off attached to monitor). Still looks physically fine, just seems substandard not to do that though.


So any other thoughts, open it up and try to secure the monitor/bezel or hassle with an RMA? Don't want to risk opening it myself and not being able to rma if it's a big deal. Though i'm also getting sick of RMAs.


----------



## N3RORE

Hello guys!
Samsung S-PLS Panels on Qnix 27'' 2560x1440 update:
QNIX QHD2730R -> LTM270DL08 (http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL08_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_overview_24452.html);
QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll Glossy-> LTM270DL07-M01 (http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL07-M01_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_overview_21060.html);
QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll SemiGlossy-> LTM270DL06 (http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL06_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_overview_22246.html);
QNIX QX2710 Evolution ll Matte-> LTM270DL02 (http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL02_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_overview_12403.html).

Comparations: http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=24452,21060,22246,12403

Regards.


----------



## xxsxx47

Hi Every One

I am New 2 the family of Qnix or will be soon

i am planning to buy it for my first desktop built very excited moving from a laptop to desktop









here is the built ( Mostly Gaming like wow , call of duty , ark , guild wars , strategy games , Movies ,... )

*CPU* : Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz LGA 1150
*Motherboard* : MSI ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z97 GAMING 5
*Graphics Card* : Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980TI GAMING G1
*Ram* :Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz DDR3
*PSU* : EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 80+ GOLD,
*Main Harddrive* :Samsung 850 EVO 250GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD
*For Sotrge* :WD Blue 1TB - 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD10EZEX
*CPU Cooling Fans* : Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
*Case* : NZXT H440

any thing to change or add to it ? or will be there problem with the monitor with those parts ?

is this the one you all talking about the One to overclock

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111482849722

and is the seller accessorieswhole A good seller to buy form ?

and a another Q ? did you guys buy another dvi-d cable for better overclocking ? if yes could any one provide me with the name plz ?

and thanks 4 the help


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxsxx47*
> 
> is this the one you all talking about the One to overclock
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/111482849722
> 
> and is the seller accessorieswhole A good seller to buy form ?
> 
> and a another Q ? did you guys buy another dvi-d cable for better overclocking ? if yes could any one provide me with the name plz ?
> 
> and thanks 4 the help


Yes, that one overclocks. But not sure why anyone would still be interested in Qnix at this stage. It was a great monitor 2 years ago but things have changed. Quality of construction is now sub-par, only corner braces rather than full frame, panel may not seat evenly leaving gaps. Looks to be a big cost saving measure and may be why Qnix is so cheap nowadays. Panel type is a lottery, you may get the good L02 panel or L07 which is less vibrant (less color space) and then there is issue of PWM, which some may find objectionable. Why bother when there is something better and a safer bet:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> Probably just wondering to see if other people have complaints from that seller, which would put them on a blacklist eventually.


I got one from DaySale and it arrived in great condition, no floating panel, no dead pixels, etc.. It was glorious for the 12 hours it lasted. I informed the seller of my issues and he told me to try a new cable. I tried a new high end dual dvi cable on Friday night and I'm still having the same issues I posted earlier in this thread. I'm waiting to hear back from the seller now, if he'll send me a new PCB then I'm willing to replace it and keep the monitor if that's the issue.. Otherwise I'm returning it and picking up an Asus MG279Q.

I'll report back if I have any issue with the seller.

Does anyone know how Newegg handles issues with marketplace sellers? (Should I have any..)


----------



## Darylrese

Hi guys,

After trying many 144hz 1440p panels here in the UK and them all being trash, i am now taking a look at the QNix.

Can anyone recommend which one i should go for and a good seller able to ship to the UK?

I currently have a 1080p 120hz monitor so would like as close to 120hz as possible. Also don't mind paying more to garentee no dead pixels or other issues.

Also is Glossy / Matt option referring to the bezel or the screen coating?

Many thanks


----------



## Davayy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> After trying many 144hz 1440p panels here in the UK and them all being trash, i am now taking a look at the QNix.
> 
> Can anyone recommend which one i should go for and a good seller able to ship to the UK?
> 
> I currently have a 1080p 120hz monitor so would like as close to 120hz as possible. Also don't mind paying more to garentee no dead pixels or other issues.
> 
> Also is Glossy / Matt option referring to the bezel or the screen coating?
> 
> Many thanks


I bought this one. Good seller and came within 5 days I think. One thing, as he has free postage, I got charged £35 for customs as they had to estimate the postage cost (think they estimated £50). I would ask him to give a figure of £20 postage and £180 value on the monitor itself on the customs declaration.
It's generally agreed that the "pixel perfect" options are just money-making schemes. My panel is fine with no defects and overclocks easily to 110hz, and can be pushed to 120hz with some timing changes.

The matte refers to the screen coating.

HTH


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Also is Glossy / Matt option referring to the bezel or the screen coating?
> 
> Many thanks


Screen coating. Matt is easier to see if you have an open window lighting your computer up, but if you don't go for glossy because the colors are more vibrant.


----------



## Darylrese

I normally game in a room with the curtains closed but it can be bright during the day.

Thank you for the information. I see some of the suppliers offer a pre test too for dead pixels / BLB etc

Having tried the ASUS PG279Q IPS, I loved the colours but couldn't stand the amount of BLB / IPS Glow


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

Im getting strange green flickering on the right half side of the screen. If I move the flickering image or move my camera ingame to the left side of the monitor the flickering stops. The monitor is connected to my 980 ti. The flickering is getting stronger the higher i oc the monitor.

Do you guys know how i can solve this problem?

I have the QX 2710


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImmortalTechniq*
> 
> Im getting strange green flickering on the right half side of the screen. If I move the flickering image or move my camera ingame to the left side of the monitor the flickering stops. The monitor is connected to my 980 ti. The flickering is getting stronger the higher i oc the monitor.
> 
> Do you guys know how i can solve this problem?
> 
> I have the QX 2710


If your overclocking the refresh rate its not stable. If not overclocking I would try simple things like driver/cable/power supply of the monitor to see if that resolves your issue. Other than that I would think you might have a faulty monitor.


----------



## ImmortalTechniq

It's overclocked the flickering doesn't apear on 60 hz, damn I guess I had bad luck then


----------



## Atomagenesis

I've been running at 110hz for 2.5 years on my X-Star, still goin' strong.


----------



## VENAXIS

I've been using my QX2710 since October 2013 (Stock - 75% neutral 2.2 HQ). It has been running perfectly since day one, could not be happier!


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys I forgot, when buying a GPU it needs to have dvi-d or dvi-i?


----------



## joeh4384

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey guys I forgot, when buying a GPU it needs to have dvi-d or dvi-i?


Think it just needs to be dual link.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh4384*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey guys I forgot, when buying a GPU it needs to have dvi-d or dvi-i?
> 
> 
> 
> Think it just needs to be dual link.
Click to expand...

WHich should really be anything these days right (390 or 970?)


----------



## joeh4384

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> WHich should really be anything these days right (390 or 970?)


Yeah a 390 or 970 has the right DVI out. Only the Fury class cards do not have at least 1 DL dvi out.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh4384*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> WHich should really be anything these days right (390 or 970?)
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah a 390 or 970 has the right DVI out. Only the Fury class cards do not have at least 1 DL dvi out.
Click to expand...

Oh really, didn't know that about fury thanks.


----------



## sparks305

I am in the same boat, were you able to get this to work to oc the monitors refresh rate?


----------



## sparks305

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonedancr*
> 
> Long time lurker, 1 year owner of Qnix QX2710 monitor. I have had it OC'd to 96 in Windows since day one. I recently moved to Ubuntu and am busy enjoying the learning curve of a new OS. U has some issues with these koren monitors and requires some customization of a file called Xorg.conf to ignore the fact that the hardware ID of the monitor is unknown.
> 
> There are a couple great posts on the net about how to set these up which I have followed. So anyway, I got the monitor up and running with the below Xorg.conf file and am now trying to figure out how to OC it to 96 like my Windows set-up. I have tried to follow the post at http://blog.patshead.com/2014/12/overclocking-my-qnix-qx2710-monitors-with-linux-and-xorg.html but unfortunately am not getting results (monitor test pattens on boot). Finally, when I ask CVT for a modeline recommendation I get:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> # 2560x1440 95.92 Hz (CVT) hsync: 146.19 kHz; pclk: 519.25 MHz
> Modeline "2560x1440_96.00"  519.25  2560 2776 3056 3552  1440 1443 1448 1524 -hsync +vsync
> 
> Which also; maybe there are other sections of the Xorg I need to tweak?
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Section "ServerLayout"
> Identifier     "Layout0"
> Screen      0  "Screen0"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "Files"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "Monitor"
> Identifier     "Monitor0"
> VendorName     "QNIX"
> ModelName      "2710"
> HorizSync       88.8
> VertRefresh     59.5
> # 2560x1440 59.95 Hz (CVT 3.69M9-R) hsync: 88.79 kHz; pclk: 241.50 MHz
> Modeline "2560x1440R"  241.50  2560 2608 2640 2720  1440 1443 1448 1481 +hsync -vsync
> DisplaySize 597 336
> Option         "DPMS"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "Device"
> Identifier     "Device0"
> Driver         "nvidia"
> VendorName     "NVIDIA Corporation"
> Option "NoLogo"
> EndSection
> 
> Section "Screen"
> Identifier     "Screen0"
> Device         "Device0"
> Monitor        "Monitor0"
> DefaultDepth    24
> SubSection     "Display"
> Depth       24
> Modes "2560x1440"
> EndSubSection
> Option "UseEDID" "False"
> Option "UseEDIDDPI" "False"
> Option "UseEDIDFreqs" "False"
> Option "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"
> 
> ### Metamode for single QX2710 (2560x1440)
> Option "metamodes" "DFP-0: 2560x1440 +0 +0"
> 
> ### Metamode for dual QX2710 (5120x1440)
> #   Option "metamodes" "DFP-0: 2560x1440_60 @2560x1440 +0+0, DFP-2: 2560x1440_60 @2560x1440 +2560+0"
> EndSection


I am in the same boat, were you able to get this to work to oc the monitors refresh rate?


----------



## archedrapier

Is the Asus Strix GTX 980 incompatible with these monitors since it only has a DVI-I port?

Edit: Nevermind, read back a few pages.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *archedrapier*
> 
> Is the Asus Strix GTX 980 incompatible with these monitors since it only has a DVI-I port?
> 
> Edit: Nevermind, read back a few pages.


The answer was yes right?


----------



## archedrapier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> The answer was yes right?


Yea. Its fine as long as it is dual-link.

Thanks for confirming


----------



## shaolin95

Guys I am having problems after the newest Nvidia driver 359.00. Basically with 3 monitors (Qnix and two smaller ones) I was able to get the Qnix driver working fine before and giving me the 96Hz option in Windows 10.
After the new driver, there 96Hz no longer shows. I tried reinstalling the Qnix driver after removing it and it installs but just never gives 96Hz any more. :/
3 monitors and Windows 10 are not fun....In Windows 7 I can add a custom res and be done with it but in Windows 10 I get an error that my monitor is not compatible with such resolution and fails the test so the only way I got it to work on my previous driver was with the Qnix driver but no luck now. :/


----------



## passinos

DVI-D is digital only. can use HDMI adapters (typical in most cards)
DIV-I is both analog and digital
DVI-A analog only

Just make sure you get double link


----------



## cah192

Hey guys I need help. I bought the glossy QNIX a while back and it OC'd 100Hz fine in the NVidia Control Panel (GTX 970). Now everytime I try to overclock again it says test failed. It doesn't matter what the refresh rate is. I'll put 59 Hz, 61 Hz, 96 Hz, and it says test failed each time. Can someone please help?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cah192*
> 
> Hey guys I need help. I bought the glossy QNIX a while back and it OC'd 100Hz fine in the NVidia Control Panel (GTX 970). Now everytime I try to overclock again it says test failed. It doesn't matter what the refresh rate is. I'll put 59 Hz, 61 Hz, 96 Hz, and it says test failed each time. Can someone please help?


Same here.. it's the new Nvidia drivers.. Does anyone know which version we need to revert to?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cah192*
> 
> Hey guys I need help. I bought the glossy QNIX a while back and it OC'd 100Hz fine in the NVidia Control Panel (GTX 970). Now everytime I try to overclock again it says test failed. It doesn't matter what the refresh rate is. I'll put 59 Hz, 61 Hz, 96 Hz, and it says test failed each time. Can someone please help?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Same here.. it's the new Nvidia drivers.. Does anyone know which version we need to revert to?


Just reverted to 358.50, I checked off "Perform a clean installation" after accepting the EULA. 96 Hz now


----------



## Transhour

hello,

I would like to get two of the following monitors for a dual screen setup:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1GM6846

I'm a developer, so i don't need them for gaming (so i'm not interested in their overclockability or anything as such). What i'm interested in, can a single GPU run these or will i need to get a second gpu? (its a new build, a skylake i5 6400).

Any help will be appreciated. thanks (and sorry if this has been asked and answered a lot, its not in the FAQ and there are 2400 pages  )


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transhour*
> 
> hello,
> 
> I would like to get two of the following monitors for a dual screen setup:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1GM6846
> 
> I'm a developer, so i don't need them for gaming (so i'm not interested in their overclockability or anything as such). What i'm interested in, can a single GPU run these or will i need to get a second gpu? (its a new build, a skylake i5 6400).
> 
> Any help will be appreciated. thanks (and sorry if this has been asked and answered a lot, its not in the FAQ and there are 2400 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I'd look at the Crossover 2795 QHD seeing as the newer QNIX (07 panels) use PWM back lighting which is probably going to bother you using it for long periods of time. The Crossover is the one to get ATM.. I actually just replaced my QNIX with a Crossover.

You'll need a GPU that supports dual link DVI... the integrated won't do.

Edit.. just saw your GPU in your sig. Your GPU has dual link DVI and will be just fine for desktop use. It supports 2560x1600.

I got mine from here (from "daysale" who I also bought my QNIX from) and it just arrived today. I'm very impressed thus far, it's noticeably easier on my eyes than my QNIX. My QNIX had some backlight bleed in the top right corner, it was very light, but my Crossover has no noticeable backlight bleed whatsoever. The bezel is the same on both monitors but fits much more nicely on my Crossover, the QNIX had a gap between the bezel and the panel just above the logo.. Both stands are wobbly (they're the same) so I'd get a $20 wall or desk mount on Monoprice for whichever one you choose. You'll need to open up the monitor (it's not difficult, videos on YouTube) in order to remove the stand on both the QNIX and the Crossover. To some degree, backlight bleeding, dead pixels, bezel fitment, etc are luck of the draw with these Korean monitors unfortunately.


----------



## tangosmango

I just upgraded to a 980ti from a 770. On the 770 I was able to 120hz but now when I installed this card, I try 115hz and I get scanlines instantly.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> I just upgraded to a 980ti from a 770. On the 770 I was able to 120hz but now when I installed this card, I try 115hz and I get scanlines instantly.


You can try using CRU (Custom Resolution Utility) and adjust your timings to see if you can get it stable.. Is it stable at 96Hz?


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> You can try using CRU (Custom Resolution Utility) and adjust your timings to see if you can get it stable.. Is it stable at 96Hz?


Yes, I can run it at 100hz


----------



## Death2Consoles

As far as I know, a monitor overclock isn't entirely dependent on the monitor. The DVI cable, and the GPU can also play a role. You might just have to be okay with 100Hz unfortunately.


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> As far as I know, a monitor overclock isn't entirely dependent on the monitor. The DVI cable, and the GPU can also play a role. You might just have to be okay with 100Hz unfortunately.


My buddy has the exact same setup as me. He also upgraded from a 760 to a 980ti hybrid and he's able to go to 120hz. Literally as of this morning, on my 770, I was able to do 120hz. Could it be the cable? I would be fine if it was the cable but if it's due to the graphics card, I would be extremely disappointed


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> My buddy has the exact same setup as me. He also upgraded from a 760 to a 980ti hybrid and he's able to go to 120hz. Literally as of this morning, on my 770, I was able to do 120hz. Could it be the cable? I would be fine if it was the cable but if it's due to the graphics card, I would be extremely disappointed


Try your buddy's cable.. see what happens.. Try your monitor on your buddy's computer, see what happens. Go from there.


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> I'd look at the Crossover 2795 QHD seeing as the newer QNIX (07 panels) use PWM back lighting which is probably going to bother you using it for long periods of time. The Crossover is the one to get ATM.. I actually just replaced my QNIX with a Crossover.
> 
> You'll need a GPU that supports dual link DVI... the integrated won't do.
> 
> Edit.. just saw your GPU in your sig. Your GPU has dual link DVI and will be just fine for desktop use. It supports 2560x1600.
> 
> I got mine from here (from "daysale" who I also bought my QNIX from) and it just arrived today. I'm very impressed thus far, it's noticeably easier on my eyes than my QNIX. My QNIX had some backlight bleed in the top right corner, it was very light, but my Crossover has no noticeable backlight bleed whatsoever. The bezel is the same on both monitors but fits much more nicely on my Crossover, the QNIX had a gap between the bezel and the panel just above the logo.. Both stands are wobbly (they're the same) so I'd get a $20 wall or desk mount on Monoprice for whichever one you choose. You'll need to open up the monitor (it's not difficult, videos on YouTube) in order to remove the stand on both the QNIX and the Crossover. To some degree, backlight bleeding, dead pixels, bezel fitment, etc are luck of the draw with these Korean monitors unfortunately.


How high can the crossover overclock? I thought I remembered reading somewhere that it had trouble overclocking past 85hz or so. Is that wrong?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> How high can the crossover overclock? I thought I remembered reading somewhere that it had trouble overclocking past 85hz or so. Is that wrong?


That is wrong.. most people can easily hit 96Hz, I can do 105 but I'm using 96, many can do 110-120 without issue. From what I can tell on OCN, both the QNIX and the Crossover have similar overclockability.


----------



## Saliciouscrumbs

With recent drivers from Nvidia it's not any longer possible to overclock qnix monitors. Anyone know if there is a fix for this (besides rolling back to earlier drivers)?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saliciouscrumbs*
> 
> With recent drivers from Nvidia it's not any longer possible to overclock qnix monitors. Anyone know if there is a fix for this (besides rolling back to earlier drivers)?


Um....I am running 359.00 with my monitor @ 96, 100, 105, and 110hz no issues.


----------



## Saliciouscrumbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Um....I am running 359.00 with my monitor @ 96, 100, 105, and 110hz no issues.


I just updated to 359 and I can't overclock anymore. Some of the answers on this page (just a few posts up) and the previous page suggest that it is the new drivers that are the cause of this. Are you on Windows 10?

I installed the qnix.inf file, but I can't seem to get the custom resolution to stick when using Nvidia control panel. I set it to 96 hz, but if fails when I press "test".


----------



## therobert93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saliciouscrumbs*
> 
> I just updated to 359 and I can't overclock anymore. Some of the answers on this page (just a few posts up) and the previous page suggest that it is the new drivers that are the cause of this. Are you on Windows 10?
> 
> I installed the qnix.inf file, but I can't seem to get the custom resolution to stick when using Nvidia control panel. I set it to 96 hz, but if fails when I press "test".


I just ran into this also. Brand new computer on Windows 10, was working for OC up to 100 on Wednesday for sure. Now I can't. Tried the same thing installing the qnix.inf to no avail. Hopefully there's a solution soon.


----------



## prostreetcamaro

I am on windows 10 and running 100hz with the latest driver.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Um....I am running 359.00 with my monitor @ 96, 100, 105, and 110hz no issues.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prostreetcamaro*
> 
> I am on windows 10 and running 100hz with the latest driver.


Did you do a "clean install" when you installed the new drivers or did you just update? After updating to the latest driver, I couldn't get a custom resolution to stick, reverting to my previous driver using the "clean install" option immediately fixed the issue.

No sure why some are having issues and others are not.


----------



## Seafodder

After reading the comments about the latest Nvidia drivers breaking overclocks, I checked mine on Ufotest and verified I'm still at 96hz with the latest drivers running on Windows 10. Didn't do anything special, just the express install via Gforce Experience running on a GTX 970 card.


----------



## therobert93

I just reverted to 358.50, see it to 100 Hz, and then upgraded to 359 (express install) and it seems to have stuck even through reboot (previously it would reset to 60 after reboot).


----------



## Death2Consoles

Awesome thanks for the info guys


----------



## bluedevil

Nope did a express install with no issues.


----------



## Joesmoe

Sorry I'm new here but I'm just so lost on what to purchase. I really want a multi input monitor with 1440p for console gaming but, from what I understand, these korean monitors with multi-input have 2 frames of input lag? Is that with overclocking or just without? I think I'll be fine with just 60hz but I dunno. Are there no alternatives(that won't break the wallet) or any korean monitor that has multi input without lag? Thank you all in advanced!


----------



## NASzi

my overclock is working with the newest drivers. Everytime I update drivers I use Driver Uninstaller to completely remove the old driver. Then I re-install the new driver, patch it and apply the new resolution/overclock.


----------



## davio

new AMD drivers coming out might mean we no longer need to use the overclocking utilities provided by ToastyX, supposedly. Hopefully this is good news.


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davio*
> 
> new AMD drivers coming out might mean we no longer need to use the overclocking utilities provided by ToastyX, supposedly. Hopefully this is good news.


Can you be more specific? It will offer its own fps control?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Can you be more specific? It will offer its own fps control?


He is talking about this slide for the AMD Crimson update. We can only hope it is what we think it is.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> Can you be more specific? It will offer its own fps control?


The leaked slides indicate that it will support custom resolutions/refresh rates/pixel clock timings natively, just like Nvidia. So no more patcher or CRU needed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> He is talking about this slide for the AMD Crimson update. We can only hope it is what we think it is.


Should be, since it is something they should have done a year ago, at least.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> The leaked slides indicate that it will support custom resolutions/refresh rates/pixel clock timings natively, just like Nvidia. So no more patcher or CRU needed.


CRU might not be needed, but there's a good chance it will be _wanted._ Unfortunately a lot of the time, the refresh rate resets to 60Hz when some games launch. CRU has managed to prevent this from happening for me. I'm hoping AMD can get it right though!!


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> As far as I know, a monitor overclock isn't entirely dependent on the monitor. The DVI cable, and the GPU can also play a role. You might just have to be okay with 100Hz unfortunately.


I'm not exactly sure why an old card (770) can push even 130hz but a much better card (980ti) can't even do 115hz without scanlines. Any explanation for that?

edit: I also just noticed that I get NO scanlines if I'm at 120hz but 16bit...

edit2: what if I used an HDMI to DVI cable? Better results?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> I'm not exactly sure why an old card (770) can push even 130hz but a much better card (980ti) can't even do 115hz without scanlines. Any explanation for that?
> 
> edit: I also just noticed that I get NO scanlines if I'm at 120hz but 16bit...
> 
> edit2: what if I used an HDMI to DVI cable? Better results?


HDMI to DVI won't work... Converters don't work with these monitors, you can only use a dual link dvi connection.

Just because the card is "better" doesn't mean it's going to be better at overclocking a specific monitor. There's a lot of variables when overclocking anything and it would be nearly impossible to pinpoint the reason behind it.. The point is that it's possible nothing is wrong at all, and that you were just lucky to reach 130Hz on the 770.

If you're running 16bit color but 120Hz, perhaps you were always running 16bit color on the 770 and just never noticed?? Is the overclock unstable once you switch it to 32bit?


----------



## Mr1plumrich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davio*
> 
> new AMD drivers coming out might mean we no longer need to use the overclocking utilities provided by ToastyX, supposedly. Hopefully this is good news.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> He is talking about this slide for the AMD Crimson update. We can only hope it is what we think it is.


I have installed the new Radeon Settings.
My Qnix2710 is not supported for "Super resolution", which is apparently the name they have given it. Still have to use CRU and the patcher.

Also, the patcher can no longer find "DVI/HDMI limit" and "HDMI limit 1".


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> HDMI to DVI won't work... Converters don't work with these monitors, you can only use a dual link dvi connection.
> 
> Just because the card is "better" doesn't mean it's going to be better at overclocking a specific monitor. There's a lot of variables when overclocking anything and it would be nearly impossible to pinpoint the reason behind it.. The point is that it's possible nothing is wrong at all, and that you were just lucky to reach 130Hz on the 770.
> 
> If you're running 16bit color but 120Hz, perhaps you were always running 16bit color on the 770 and just never noticed?? Is the overclock unstable once you switch it to 32bit?


Hm, no I'm 100% sure I was in 32bit with the 770. When I change to 32bit @ 120hz, it will start giving scanlines.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr1plumrich*
> 
> I have installed the new Radeon Settings.
> My Qnix2710 is not supported for "Super resolution", which is apparently the name they have given it. Still have to use CRU and the patcher.
> 
> Also, the patcher can no longer find "DVI/HDMI limit" and "HDMI limit 1".


At least it still works though. We are lucky in that much. By the way did you install the qnix.inf first? I am thinking of giving that a try and seeing if that works.


----------



## ImJJames

With the Crimson Driver


----------



## Mr1plumrich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> At least it still works though. We are lucky in that much. By the way did you install the qnix.inf first? I am thinking of giving that a try and seeing if that works.


No, I did not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> With the Crimson Driver


Yes, that is where I end up. I can change the values, but clicking on verify gives an error message saying that the monitor is not supported.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr1plumrich*
> 
> No, I did not.
> Yes, that is where I end up. I can change the values, but clicking on verify gives an error message saying that the monitor is not supported.


Its easy just follow OC guideline its same procedure as before.

I use the patcher than install the driver for the monitor in safemode driver signing disabled. It works


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> Its easy just follow OC guideline its same procedure as before.
> 
> I use the patcher than install the driver for the monitor in safemode driver signing disabled. It works


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> Its easy just follow OC guideline its same procedure as before.
> 
> I use the patcher than install the driver for the monitor in safemode driver signing disabled. It works


The whole point of this new feature was so we wouldn't have to use the patcher, since the patcher breaks HDCP.. The new crimson software 15.11 was supposed to allow higher pixel clocks without the need of the patcher. But it doesn't work with the QNIX monitors. I am testing it with the inf right now but it doesn't seem to work that way either...


----------



## Jacoblab

Anyone know if you have to revert back to 358.50 drivers to overclock with nvidia? I can't overclock on 359.00, it is giving me "test failed" no matter what I put, even like 59 Hz.
I play battlefront and fallout 4 though so I don't really want to have to revert back to the old drivers without support for new games..


----------



## tangosmango

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?euid=ce11cbe08272451d9a2fd783d809689a&cp=1&exe=13453&ext=34391&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext

vs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?customid=Hu0dADHyEeOclZbKKjePvg0_cL7e3_0_0_0&pub=5574652453&afepn=5337259887&campid=5337259887&pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa&afepn=5337259887

aside from being perfect pixel, what is the difference?


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?euid=ce11cbe08272451d9a2fd783d809689a&cp=1&exe=13453&ext=34391&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext
> 
> vs
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Matte-/321135502506?customid=Hu0dADHyEeOclZbKKjePvg0_cL7e3_0_0_0&pub=5574652453&afepn=5337259887&campid=5337259887&pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ac52ae4aa&afepn=5337259887
> 
> aside from being perfect pixel, what is the difference?


Nothing, Perfect Pixel is a branding thing only, just think of it as an extra warranty that you will have 5 or less dead pixels as opposed to the standard warranty which is 20ish I think.


----------



## bbdale

For everyone having issues overclocking the monitor with Nvidia Cards, what is you complete monitor set up? I am running the latest drivers on my 780 Ti. After trying google it seems that people having this issue are those who have other non 1440 monitors plugged in in addition to their QNIX (in my case).

I have a Dell 1080 monitor on my left, the QNIX in the middle and an old 900p monitor on the right (I use this for precision x and various other programs, very useful when troubleshooting overclocks, etc). Up until recently I did not have any problems with the QNIX OC (this setup), until the driver update. I get that same error that the program does not even try to overclock it, it right away tells me that my monitor does not support this resolution. Won't work if I try 59 or even 30. Given what I read from others I tried to see what would happen if I unplugged the other monitors. It did the trick with the non 1440 monitors unplugged, it OC'ed successfully. Since I was able to save the overclocks successfully I tried to plug the monitors back in to see what would happen. As I suspected the overclock immediately reset back to 60. I tried setting it again, it worked but would reset itself back to 60 within a few seconds each time. I tried to see if maybe it was my 900p monitor holding me back (it is plugged in with a dvi to hdmi converter, since the 780ti only has 2 dvi slots) alas no dice. This problem occurs with 1440+1080, 1440+900, and 1440+1080+900 combinations. The only way to have it working successfully is for only the QNIX to be plugged in.

I don't really want to reset to older drivers. I tried rolling back last night to 258.91 but it did not help. I think I may need to go all the way back to 358.50, though with recent game releases its not the ideal state.

At this point we need a way to contact Nvidia, it seems that this is an issue that they didn't expect (it is a bit of a ghetto setup). I would love to hear from others with similar experiences, maybe together we can find some sort of workaround until/if Nvidia fixes this.

EDIT: Indeed at 358.50 this issue goes away. However we will need to alert Nvidia of this somehow - we need some way to update drivers at some point.


----------



## Addsome

Hey guys,

I recently had a problem with my Qnix monitor. I had it overclocked to 105hz with extremely reduced timings and my screen went all pixelated. I could hear my movie running in the background but turning the monitor on and off did nothing. I restarted my PC and the monitor worked fine so I just reduced my overclock to 96hz. Does anyone know what the problem could have been?


----------



## ATCQ

Hi guys,

New to 1440p monitors and I've just bought one of these on eBay thinking they'll be good. I've realised now that there is some comments in the OP about multi-input monitors being bad. Have I messed up? This is primarily for gaming and I am moving from a 60hz 21.5 inch 1080p monitor to this 27 inch 1440p. Is the input lag really bad?

(http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111380363963)

I'm very worried I've made a big mistake here, the monitor is coming this afternoon! I don't play games competitively but I don't want noticeable input lag

(EDIT: If possible is it easy enough to return this monitor and purchase a single input model? I'd rather not get shafted here)


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ATCQ*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> New to 1440p monitors and I've just bought one of these on eBay thinking they'll be good. I've realised now that there is some comments in the OP about multi-input monitors being bad. Have I messed up? This is primarily for gaming and I am moving from a 60hz 21.5 inch 1080p monitor to this 27 inch 1440p. Is the input lag really bad?
> 
> (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111380363963)
> 
> I'm very worried I've made a big mistake here, the monitor is coming this afternoon!


Although OP is obsolete considering the changes Qnix has undergone over the last year or so, yes the monitor you bought is NOT the same as the Qnix everyone was buying for gaming purposes. Its an entirely different monitor, different panel (VA not PLS) , different inputs, doesnt overclock well and in general is not a good monitor. The only similarity is the name/model no. Qx2710, nothing more. Even if you were to buy the single-input Qnix today, it would still be a sub-par version of the orignial Qnix, with poorer construction quality, panel lottery and PWM.

Cant understand why people pull the trigger and ask questions later. However not all is lost, it still may be be an improvement over the 21" 1080p you're upgrading from.


----------



## ATCQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Although OP is obsolete considering the changes Qnix has undergone over the last year or so, yes the monitor you bought is NOT the same as the Qnix everyone was buying for gaming purposes. Its an entirely different monitor, different panel (VA not PLS) , different inputs, doesnt overclock well and in general is not a good monitor. The only similarity is the name/model no. Qx2710, nothing more. Even if you were to buy the single-input Qnix today, it would still be a sub-par version of the orignial Qnix, with poorer construction quality, panel lottery and PWM.
> 
> Cant understand why people pull the trigger and ask questions later. However not all is lost, it still may be be an improvement over the 21" 1080p you're upgrading from.


Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping that the resolution difference and size will still be satisfactory over the 21.5 1080p monitor.

I think I confused myself reading out of date information, I'm normally very good with buying computer components...


----------



## Jorginto

Is the PLS X-star:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/321135502506?hash=item4ac52ae4aa:g:jPYAAOxygj5SeX6w

still worth it for gaming?

I can buy BenQ GW2765HT for around 380$ in my country, so it's almost the same as X-tar after customs fees.


----------



## mrsus

for some reason , i can only overclock to 81 Hz using the new driver only. anything more the setting won't apply.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrsus*
> 
> for some reason , i can only overclock to 81 Hz using the new driver only. anything more the setting won't apply.


You still have to use the pixel patcher and CRU. The new settings in crimson don't work for the QNIX.


----------



## BrokenPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ATCQ*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> New to 1440p monitors and I've just bought one of these on eBay thinking they'll be good. I've realised now that there is some comments in the OP about multi-input monitors being bad. Have I messed up? This is primarily for gaming and I am moving from a 60hz 21.5 inch 1080p monitor to this 27 inch 1440p. Is the input lag really bad?
> 
> (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111380363963)
> 
> I'm very worried I've made a big mistake here, the monitor is coming this afternoon! I don't play games competitively but I don't want noticeable input lag
> 
> (EDIT: If possible is it easy enough to return this monitor and purchase a single input model? I'd rather not get shafted here)


I have one of those, I bought one with the pivot stand though. The panel had no dead pixels, almost no BLB, and the glow is no worse than the best monitors put out by the big names. I can overclock it to about 84hz without frame skipping. It has a bit of dirt under the anti glare coating that took me three weeks to notice its so small. And it does use low frequency PWM, about 180hz. In an office environment its no big deal, just leave it at 100% brightness. It is not all that bright anyways. I leave it on 100% brightness at home. Most games are dark enough. You can always turn it down in the driver. I think you will love it for what it is. A big arse High def panel as long as you get a good one.

I upgraded for a 24" 1920x1200 and it was a big upgrade.


----------



## Jorginto

Guys, how to install qnix inf file on win 10? It wont allow me, couse it's not whql.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorginto*
> 
> Guys, how to install qnix inf file on win 10? It wont allow me, couse it's not whql.


You have to restart your computer in safe mode with the option disable driver signature enforcement


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jorginto*
> 
> Guys, how to install qnix inf file on win 10? It wont allow me, couse it's not whql.


To be honest it doesn't help anyway. Crimson still wont let you overclock it past 81hz, and you will still have to use the patcher and CRU anyway.

But to answer your question, just type recovery options in the search field of the start menu, and click on recovery options. Go to advanced startup. hit restart now, then hit troubleshoot, then hit advanced, and startup options, it rebootsthen pick the 7 option to disable driver signature enforcement.

yes it is that convoluted.


----------



## minlillaponny

Hi guys. So i just recieved my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll and i like it, atleast for the price.
I've started to OC it and have some problems at 110Hz.

*If i choose 110Hz at LCD native/reduced it runs flawless, no problems at all. But my Memory clock at my GPU 1 are stuck at 100% all the time
but
*If i choose 110Hz at LCD manual/standard the memry clock goes down while doing nothing, but some flickering green stripes comes and goes in the bottom of the screen.

Is there any way to fix this? For now i reach 96Hz at LCD native


----------



## AntharesProcyon

Trying to reinstall my Qnix' driver. Somehow, whenever I try to do so I end up like this 
. Anyone's got a clue what's wrong? (I selected the .inf file and the list that pops up after comes up as empty).


----------



## DipreSantana

I'm looking to buy one of these, from what I've read all the AHVA panels drop frames, but what about the PLS panels that are being sold now, can these be overclocked? I'm specifically looking into these two.

QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-27-QHD-2560x1440-PLS-Monitor-Glossy-/141796429882?hash=item2103b9d03a

X-STAR DP2710LED
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/321135502506?hash=item4ac52ae4aa:g:jPYAAOxygj5SeX6w

I would prefer non glossy, so if anyone has any recommendations, it'd be very helpful.


----------



## lightsout

Is anyone able to OC their monitor on the newest nvidia driver. Read some people having issues. I have a 970 in the mail and trying to get the right driver.


----------



## AntharesProcyon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is anyone able to OC their monitor on the newest nvidia driver. Read some people having issues. I have a 970 in the mail and trying to get the right driver.


I think it's working for me. Using a 980 though. I've tried testing it but it was a bit unstable.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AntharesProcyon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is anyone able to OC their monitor on the newest nvidia driver. Read some people having issues. I have a 970 in the mail and trying to get the right driver.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's working for me. Using a 980 though. I've tried testing it but it was a bit unstable.
Click to expand...

So its not really working?


----------



## Grotlo

Hey everybody,

Just wanted to make sure I ordered the correct model of a monitor that can overclock:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111358944686?

Thanks!


----------



## caenlen

can the QNIX QX2414 1080p minitor hit 200hz? has anyone tried?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grotlo*
> 
> Hey everybody,
> 
> Just wanted to make sure I ordered the correct model of a monitor that can overclock:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111358944686?
> 
> Thanks!


Looks like it to me.


----------



## Grotlo

Cool

Thanks lightsout!


----------



## Grotlo

Is the reason why some other models like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-EVOLUTION-II-DP-MULTI-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-Monitor-/141481152682?hash=item20f0ef10aa:g:9pQAAOSwYGFUuhWx don't overclock this "This is By-Pass Model and doesn't have AD Board. Only for Desktop PC monitor. PC graphic card must support Dual Link DVI-D directly. (DVI-D adapter is NOT compatible.)"?

Just curious

p.s. I got Powercolor R9 290 PCS+ 1040/1350, would that be sufficient to run 1440p monitor by the way?

Thanks!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is anyone able to OC their monitor on the newest nvidia driver. Read some people having issues. I have a 970 in the mail and trying to get the right driver.


Does no one use nvidia here? Or does everyone just never upgrade drivers?


----------



## bbdale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is anyone able to OC their monitor on the newest nvidia driver. Read some people having issues. I have a 970 in the mail and trying to get the right driver.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Does no one use nvidia here? Or does everyone just never upgrade drivers?


I posted on this a bit earlier. No one responded to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbdale*
> 
> For everyone having issues overclocking the monitor with Nvidia Cards, what is you complete monitor set up? I am running the latest drivers on my 780 Ti. After trying google it seems that people having this issue are those who have other non 1440 monitors plugged in in addition to their QNIX (in my case).
> 
> I have a Dell 1080 monitor on my left, the QNIX in the middle and an old 900p monitor on the right (I use this for precision x and various other programs, very useful when troubleshooting overclocks, etc). Up until recently I did not have any problems with the QNIX OC (this setup), until the driver update. I get that same error that the program does not even try to overclock it, it right away tells me that my monitor does not support this resolution. Won't work if I try 59 or even 30. Given what I read from others I tried to see what would happen if I unplugged the other monitors. It did the trick with the non 1440 monitors unplugged, it OC'ed successfully. Since I was able to save the overclocks successfully I tried to plug the monitors back in to see what would happen. As I suspected the overclock immediately reset back to 60. I tried setting it again, it worked but would reset itself back to 60 within a few seconds each time. I tried to see if maybe it was my 900p monitor holding me back (it is plugged in with a dvi to hdmi converter, since the 780ti only has 2 dvi slots) alas no dice. This problem occurs with 1440+1080, 1440+900, and 1440+1080+900 combinations. The only way to have it working successfully is for only the QNIX to be plugged in.
> 
> I don't really want to reset to older drivers. I tried rolling back last night to 258.91 but it did not help. I think I may need to go all the way back to 358.50, though with recent game releases its not the ideal state.
> 
> At this point we need a way to contact Nvidia, it seems that this is an issue that they didn't expect (it is a bit of a ghetto setup). I would love to hear from others with similar experiences, maybe together we can find some sort of workaround until/if Nvidia fixes this.
> 
> EDIT: Indeed at 358.50 this issue goes away. However we will need to alert Nvidia of this somehow - we need some way to update drivers at some point.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbdale*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is anyone able to OC their monitor on the newest nvidia driver. Read some people having issues. I have a 970 in the mail and trying to get the right driver.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Does no one use nvidia here? Or does everyone just never upgrade drivers?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I posted on this a bit earlier. No one responded to me.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bbdale*
> 
> For everyone having issues overclocking the monitor with Nvidia Cards, what is you complete monitor set up? I am running the latest drivers on my 780 Ti. After trying google it seems that people having this issue are those who have other non 1440 monitors plugged in in addition to their QNIX (in my case).
> 
> I have a Dell 1080 monitor on my left, the QNIX in the middle and an old 900p monitor on the right (I use this for precision x and various other programs, very useful when troubleshooting overclocks, etc). Up until recently I did not have any problems with the QNIX OC (this setup), until the driver update. I get that same error that the program does not even try to overclock it, it right away tells me that my monitor does not support this resolution. Won't work if I try 59 or even 30. Given what I read from others I tried to see what would happen if I unplugged the other monitors. It did the trick with the non 1440 monitors unplugged, it OC'ed successfully. Since I was able to save the overclocks successfully I tried to plug the monitors back in to see what would happen. As I suspected the overclock immediately reset back to 60. I tried setting it again, it worked but would reset itself back to 60 within a few seconds each time. I tried to see if maybe it was my 900p monitor holding me back (it is plugged in with a dvi to hdmi converter, since the 780ti only has 2 dvi slots) alas no dice. This problem occurs with 1440+1080, 1440+900, and 1440+1080+900 combinations. The only way to have it working successfully is for only the QNIX to be plugged in.
> 
> I don't really want to reset to older drivers. I tried rolling back last night to 258.91 but it did not help. I think I may need to go all the way back to 358.50, though with recent game releases its not the ideal state.
> 
> At this point we need a way to contact Nvidia, it seems that this is an issue that they didn't expect (it is a bit of a ghetto setup). I would love to hear from others with similar experiences, maybe together we can find some sort of workaround until/if Nvidia fixes this.
> 
> EDIT: Indeed at 358.50 this issue goes away. However we will need to alert Nvidia of this somehow - we need some way to update drivers at some point.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Ohisee, I only have one monitor so won't be of any help.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Does no one use nvidia here? Or does everyone just never upgrade drivers?


Myself and others have said a few pages back that 358.50 fixes this issue. I'm sure it was easily missed in the 2448+ pages of this thread though. Reverting isn't a great solution though, at least not for those playing some of the latest releases. Hopefully Nvidia will get their act together.


----------



## hout17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is anyone able to OC their monitor on the newest nvidia driver. Read some people having issues. I have a 970 in the mail and trying to get the right driver.


Yes, I have mine overclocked to 96hz and it runs flawless on the latest and greatest drivers. I have a 980TI


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hout17*
> 
> Yes, I have mine overclocked to 96hz and it runs flawless on the latest and greatest drivers. I have a 980TI


Do you have a multi monitor setup? This seems to only be an issue for those of us running multiple monitors.


----------



## hout17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Do you have a multi monitor setup? This seems to only be an issue for those of us running multiple monitors.


No just the single monitor wall mounted.


----------



## DBEAU

Anyone know off hand how much the X-Star DP2710 weighs? I'm looking to get a Freedom arm mount and wonder if I should get the HD. Thanks.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Anyone know off hand how much the X-Star DP2710 weighs? I'm looking to get a Freedom arm mount and wonder if I should get the HD. Thanks.


I have a Qnix qx2710 and the ergo freedom arm....works good.


----------



## Liquored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> can the QNIX QX2414 1080p minitor hit 200hz? has anyone tried?


haven't tried but all I got out of mine was 117 Hz. I dropped that down to 110Hz and am very happy with that. I started to get artifacts at 118Hz


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> I have a Qnix qx2710 and the ergo freedom arm....works good.


Nice setup there. So you have the regular freedom arm or the "HD" version?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Nice setup there. So you have the regular freedom arm or the "HD" version?


Just the normal version
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824980028


----------



## bbdale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Is anyone able to OC their monitor on the newest nvidia driver. Read some people having issues. I have a 970 in the mail and trying to get the right driver.


New Nvidia drivers came out. Any one know if this fixes those OC issues ?


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbdale*
> 
> New Nvidia drivers came out. Any one know if this fixes those OC issues ?


Gonna try when I get home because right now, I can make mine do 96Hz with 2 other monitors but I have to do all sorts of tricks between the Nvidia Control Panel and the Windows options to get it to work in Windows 10 while it works just fine in Windows 7. :/


----------



## bbdale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Gonna try when I get home because right now, I can make mine do 96Hz with 2 other monitors but I have to do all sorts of tricks between the Nvidia Control Panel and the Windows options to get it to work in Windows 10 while it works just fine in Windows 7. :/


Were you doing this on newer drivers or on 358.50? If the newer ones, what tricks did you have to do, if you don't mind my asking?


----------



## shaolin95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbdale*
> 
> Were you doing this on newer drivers or on 358.50? If the newer ones, what tricks did you have to do, if you don't mind my asking?


Well not sure if this applies to anyone else but this was with the latest drivers (not counting any new ones released the last 3 days just in case).
I have the Qnix with two smaller 1280x1024 monitors on the side which I run at 76Hz while the Qnix runs at 96Hz but in Windows 10 I have to turn on the side ones first from the Nvidia Control Panel and make one of those Primary from the Windows options then I can activate the Qnix while keeping it not as primary and from the Windows options I can select it then select the "properties" option to change the refresh rate to 96Hz from there and finally at that point I can set the Qnix as Primary again from the Windows options. If I go to the Nvidia control Panel to change resolution, it will change my Qnix to 60Hz.
I maybe missing a few things and sorry for the not so accurate naming of the options but I am at work so cannot do it right now to provide the exact option names etc.

But yes..it is rather annoying


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> To be honest it doesn't help anyway. Crimson still wont let you overclock it past 81hz, and you will still have to use the patcher and CRU anyway.
> 
> But to answer your question, just type recovery options in the search field of the start menu, and click on recovery options. Go to advanced startup. hit restart now, then hit troubleshoot, then hit advanced, and startup options, it rebootsthen pick the 7 option to disable driver signature enforcement.
> 
> yes it is that convoluted.


Where's a copy of the drivers? I'd like to install them just so the monitor isn't always ID'd as a "DVI Device", which bugs me.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Drivers linked in OP:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club


----------



## xzamples

hey guys

was thinking of getting this one

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/121362611435?hash=item1c41c67ceb:g:2UoAAOxyUylTPTVd

also another question, if my video card is hdmi only can i get an hdmi to dvi converter and will it work with the korean monitors?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xzamples*
> 
> hey guys
> 
> was thinking of getting this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/121362611435?hash=item1c41c67ceb:g:2UoAAOxyUylTPTVd
> 
> also another question, if my video card is hdmi only can i get an hdmi to dvi converter and will it work with the korean monitors?


Not sure why you are upgrading? Is it just for the screen real estate? Or do you want to also game with higher refresh rates (overclocking)? In any event most people consider it a "mistake"? to by the True10 versions UNLESS you absolutely must have multiple inputs? ... see *HERE* ... also take a good look at the OP (1st page), it's a bit older but many of the principles still apply


----------



## sinnedone

I was thinking of trying out the newest crimson amd drivers, does it still have issues setting custom resolutions? I haven't been keeping up with drivers so I don't know if this is still an issue. (I run my qnix at 120hz)


----------



## xzamples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Not sure why you are upgrading? Is it just for the screen real estate? Or do you want to also game with higher refresh rates (overclocking)? In any event most people consider it a "mistake"? to by the True10 versions UNLESS you absolutely must have multiple inputs? ... see *HERE* ... also take a good look at the OP (1st page), it's a bit older but many of the principles still apply


upgrading because i currently have a Acer S230HL 23" its vga only and 60ghz only

i want multi inputs because i have hdmi only video cards and dvi video cards


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I was thinking of trying out the newest crimson amd drivers, does it still have issues setting custom resolutions? I haven't been keeping up with drivers so I don't know if this is still an issue. (I run my qnix at 120hz)


The driver custom refresh settings don't work right, but you can still use the patcher and CRU as normal.


----------



## lazystargazer

Hey i just got this monitor and am having trouble overclocking. I've updated my drivers, reinstalled nvidia geforce experience, downloaded nvidia pixel clock patcher, and download two separate qnix drivers, neither of which fixed the problem. I'm using nvidia control panel and every attempt to adjust to higher refresh rates in a custom resolution has failed. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazystargazer*
> 
> Hey i just got this monitor and am having trouble overclocking. I've updated my drivers, reinstalled nvidia geforce experience, downloaded nvidia pixel clock patcher, and download two separate qnix drivers, neither of which fixed the problem. I'm using nvidia control panel and every attempt to adjust to higher refresh rates in a custom resolution has failed. Anyone have any ideas?


Revert to 358.50 because the newer drivers seem to have broken overclocking when you have more than one monitor plugged in.


----------



## lazystargazer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Revert to 358.50 because the newer drivers seem to have broken overclocking when you have more than one monitor plugged in.


Hey this worked! Thanks dude, appreciate the help.


----------



## amit_talkin

I just saw a QNIX QX2710 EVO 2 "SE" model recently. Never heard of it except for "TRUE10" multi port versions.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-SE-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-WQHD-PC-Monitor-/121256076370

Is there any diff. between EVO 2 and EVO 2 SE? I cant see any spec wise diff.
Just curious!


----------



## Grotlo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minlillaponny*
> 
> Hi guys. So i just recieved my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll and i like it, atleast for the price.
> I've started to OC it and have some problems at 110Hz.
> 
> *If i choose 110Hz at LCD native/reduced it runs flawless, no problems at all. But my Memory clock at my GPU 1 are stuck at 100% all the time
> but
> *If i choose 110Hz at LCD manual/standard the memry clock goes down while doing nothing, but some flickering green stripes comes and goes in the bottom of the screen.
> 
> Is there any way to fix this? For now i reach 96Hz at LCD native


I have the same issue. At 96hz all good monitor wise, but GPU memory is maxed even on desktop doing nothing... Have you found any solution to this?


----------



## Joe-Gamer

I upgraded my computer to x99, with 5930k x99 pro 3.1 and hyper x ram. I can't do my monitor overclock anymore, I installed the driver and nvidia control panel says any oc past 60hz fails. Before with my 2500k I ran the monitor at 96hz.


----------



## Grotlo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grotlo*
> 
> I have the same issue. At 96hz all good monitor wise, but GPU memory is maxed even on desktop doing nothing... Have you found any solution to this?


Black magic. So I created a new custom resolution 110. Rebooted PC. Once back up. Changed back to 96 profile again. Rebooted PC. Now GPU Memory clock is 149.5 Mhz instead of 1350 Mhz on idle (desktop)...lol....


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grotlo*
> 
> Black magic. So I created a new custom resolution 110. Rebooted PC. Once back up. Changed back to 96 profile again. Rebooted PC. Now GPU Memory clock is 149.5 Mhz instead of 1350 Mhz on idle (desktop)...lol....


Did you change the timings type when you made the new resolution? LCD Standard should downclock at 96Hz,maybe before it was set to something else?


----------



## minlillaponny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grotlo*
> 
> I have the same issue. At 96hz all good monitor wise, but GPU memory is maxed even on desktop doing nothing... Have you found any solution to this?


Don't know why or how it works. But i deleted all my custom rules and made a new. A choosed 96Hz with LCD reduced timings and now it works as it should. Only one problem is that videos on Facebook etc are black"ish" several seconds in the beginning, but i can live with that


----------



## astronomicat

Does anyone know anything about the Alloxx brand? I found this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ALLOXX-X27-LED-27-Monitor-Matte-Black-High-Def-2560x1440-HD-PC-Computer-TV/151649925665?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3D2ac25217781f4dcfa96e60d8d36335c2%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D111520558751
monitor on ebay for $200. It seems like it's the same panel as the qnix


----------



## Grotlo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Did you change the timings type when you made the new resolution? LCD Standard should downclock at 96Hz,maybe before it was set to something else?


I didn't... All custom resolutions I have are LCD Standard


----------



## lightsout

Hey not sure if anyone is interested in this but I found a sweet little app that lets you set a hot key to go from 60hz to 120 hz. I had a shortcut with AMD to go from patched to unpatched driver.

But this is even better (I am using nvidia). I don't like to run the monitor at 120hz 24/7 just in case it not good for it. So I only do it for games.

Here you go.
http://funk.eu/hrc/


----------



## RAZZTA01

Hi, anyone can confirm where to buy such a monitor from ebay? a perfect pixel guaranteed one?
Rgds


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RAZZTA01*
> 
> Hi, anyone can confirm where to buy such a monitor from ebay? a perfect pixel guaranteed one?
> Rgds


I would look into a Crossover 2795 QHD. Pretty much the same as the QNIX, same resolution, same size, same stand, same bezel, overclocks just as well.. The Crossover, however, has a better response time, better colors, and no PWM backlighting (the QNIX has PWM backlighting and it causes many users headaches and eye strain) so it's the best option of the Korean monitors right now. The QNIX used to be better when it was using the "02" and "06" panels. Now they use the "07" panel which has the PWM backlighting and other issues which make it inferior to the Crossover, despite the fact that the QNIX is still a stellar monitor for the price.

I'd look on Ebay or the Newegg Marketplace. GreenSum, DaySale are good sellers on each, respectively.

Perfect pixel is worth if it's only about $10 more, any more than that and I'd just get a regular one. Nobody knows if they actually check them, but if you pay for a perfect pixel, it's easier to return it for dead pixels.


----------



## DSWuk

Hey all!

god this is a minefield well for myself anyway... i was looking to get myself a new 144hz monitor been looking at the QNIX QX2720 REAL 144Hz DP LED 27" 1ms 1920x1080 FHD 27 zoll Gaming Monitore

however i am really tempted to get a 1440p and know to look for a PLS model, but now people are saying that the Crossover 2795 QHD: PWM/Flicker Free Overclock-able Matte 1440p AH-IPS is the better choice.

Since i only game with this monitor i hence the reason i was going 144hz.

Regardless of these monitors atm, what would you go for 144hz @1080p or 1440p ignoring the lottery of overloack


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DSWuk*
> 
> Hey all!
> 
> god this is a minefield well for myself anyway... i was looking to get myself a new 144hz monitor been looking at the QNIX QX2720 REAL 144Hz DP LED 27" 1ms 1920x1080 FHD 27 zoll Gaming Monitore
> 
> however i am really tempted to get a 1440p and know to look for a PLS model, but now people are saying that the Crossover 2795 QHD: PWM/Flicker Free Overclock-able Matte 1440p AH-IPS is the better choice.
> 
> Since i only game with this monitor i hence the reason i was going 144hz.
> 
> Regardless of these monitors atm, what would you go for 144hz @1080p or 1440p ignoring the lottery of overloack


It's hard for many of us to comment on questions like this due to missing information ...









1) What are your system specs, especially GPU's (see my sig)?

2) What is your current monitor? have you tried 1440p / any refresh rate beyond 60Hz? / and-or an IPS type panel?

3) More specifics on exactly your "type" of gaming? % of competitive FPS vs RPG type gaming?

4) The "main" reason many of us promote the Crossover 2795 over the PLS QX2710 is because of PWM diming *HERE*, and the potential health effects it has on "some" people. If your not effected by PWM and want a glossy version the QX2710 is your only choice









Hope that gets you started


----------



## DSWuk

Yer more info does help....should of included that.
So I got i5 3570k gpu asus 970 and 8 gigs ram

I have only used a 1080p 60hz monitor i think its 5ms not to sure never played on anything else so have no experience to compare it.

Hence the reason to change it to something that could be a lot nicer experience.

Games wise mostly fps and a few mmo's so say 80/20.


----------



## Nachbar

I am in the market for a new monitor and Newegg currently has a really good deal on the Qnix for $225: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1GM6846

Should I buy that or is the Crossover worth the extra $ for 2ms faster response and no pwm? $309: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA90V3FW7032

Or should I buy this Qnix which is 2ms faster than the crossover but has 1 frame of input lag and multiple ports? Apparently there are a few models and I'm not sure if this one is flicker free multi version. $228: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1K56705

I'm leaning a bit towards the last one I think. My current monitor is an aging Acer H233H. Thinking of putting both on a dual Vesa mount with the Acer either above or on its side next to it.

I also switch my computer over to my TV which apprently has 26ms input lag and it doesn't bother me that much. However I only use a controller with it. Might be different if I used keyboard and mouse. I'm curious if that multi qnix overclocks well. My H233H overclocks to 75hz on dvi-i with no frame skips just fine.

Also should I buy from ebay for the qnix multi as their descriptions state it is the updated model with no frame skip. Wish there was a review of the latest version of the qnix qx2710 multi with fixed frame skip.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DSWuk*
> 
> Yer more info does help....should of included that.
> So I got i5 3570k gpu asus 970 and 8 gigs ram
> 
> I have only used a 1080p 60hz monitor i think its 5ms not to sure never played on anything else so have no experience to compare it.
> 
> Hence the reason to change it to something that could be a lot nicer experience.
> 
> Games wise mostly fps and a few mmo's so say 80/20.


Most people comment that it is a drastic improvement in Picture Quality going from 1080p/TN to 1440p/IPS(PLS) and the upgrade from 60Hz to 96Hz-120Hz is pretty drastic also, even in your Windows Desktop environment! Although it's been 3 years since I upgraded, every time I have to use someone else's TN/60Hz panel, I say WoW this sucks at any resolution ... Your 970 will be fine 90% of the time but it may struggle at times with the newest AAA titles @1440p with steady 60FPS, but so does my 980Ti until I turn some things down from max.

glossy vs matte screen finish ???

Pwm Diming a factor?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nachbar*
> 
> I am in the market for a new monitor and Newegg currently has a really good deal on the Qnix for $225: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1GM6846
> 
> Should I buy that or is the Crossover worth the extra $ for 2ms faster response and no pwm? $309: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA90V3FW7032
> 
> Or should I buy this Qnix which is 2ms faster than the crossover but has 1 frame of input lag and multiple ports? Apparently there are a few models and I'm not sure if this one is flicker free multi version. $228: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1K56705
> 
> I'm leaning a bit towards the last one I think. My current monitor is an aging Acer H233H. Thinking of putting both on a dual Vesa mount with the Acer either above or on its side next to it.
> 
> I also switch my computer over to my TV which apprently has 26ms input lag and it doesn't bother me that much. However I only use a controller with it. Might be different if I used keyboard and mouse. I'm curious if that multi qnix overclocks well. My H233H overclocks to 75hz on dvi-i with no frame skips just fine.
> 
> Also should I buy from ebay for the qnix multi as their descriptions state it is the updated model with no frame skip. Wish there was a review of the latest version of the qnix qx2710 multi with fixed frame skip.


The 2ms pixel GtG refresh rate will make NO difference with the single-input overclockable monitors, pixel response has nothing to do with real input lag ...

PWM diming even if your not sensitive to the health effects can exhibit additional ghosting if you really know what to look for ...

Your 3rd choice I'd be vary weary of any claims that it can overclock beyond 85Hz WITHOUT Dropping Frames, see more info *HERE* ... that Newegg True10 link makes no claims of overclocking, and one of the reviews that says it OC's? that guy is an idiot as he describes a different model, the "Single-Input" QX2710 (see link above). I also highly question their claim of a pixel response of 4ms unless this is an entirely new AHVA panel? Never trust the Koreans with specs and overclocking claims


----------



## Guillnae

Hey guys! Long time lurker here, ive read so many pages of this thread you have no idea.

To avoid customs fees, i bought a used qnix locally, recieved it today. The previous owner showed it to me, working, with 100 and 110hz profiles, no blacklight bleed nothing.

So i went for it, and im writing on it right now.

Next to the issues then:

The monitor will nor work at 60hz. When started up solo, it had alot of green lines on the right side, and black on the left (


http://imgur.com/uiFAsKp

)

Now i fiddled with it for hours, and after patching, installing the driver and reverting my nvidia driver back to 358.5 i managed to set the refresh rate to 20hz, this made it work, and now i bumped it up to 57hz, 58 or higher makes it go back to that state.

If i remove the second monitor, it goes back to that state, and if i launch a full screen game, same thing.

Now i imagine this to be because if i do any of those things, the refresh rate goes back into the 60hz range and it stops displaying. That said, i have a new cable comming tomorow, one that the owner used and knows works fine (im using a brand new one that he hadnt opened or used ever before)

EDIT; Fullscreen issues gone, only overclockinng above 57hz and single monitor with qnix issues remain

Is there anything i can try meanwhile? Im finding it hard to believe that the cable is the only issue for something so bizzare.

Extra info, its a gtx 760, the other screen is an old VGA (using DVI adapter) and im using windows 10, build 10586


----------



## Liquored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Guillnae*
> 
> Hey guys! Long time lurker here, ive read so many pages of this thread you have no idea.
> 
> To avoid customs fees, i bought a used qnix locally, recieved it today. The previous owner showed it to me, working, with 100 and 110hz profiles, no blacklight bleed nothing.
> 
> So i went for it, and im writing on it right now.
> 
> Next to the issues then:
> 
> The monitor will nor work at 60hz. When started up solo, it had alot of green lines on the right side, and black on the left (
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/uiFAsKp
> 
> )
> 
> Now i fiddled with it for hours, and after patching, installing the driver and reverting my nvidia driver back to 358.5 i managed to set the refresh rate to 20hz, this made it work, and now i bumped it up to 57hz, 58 or higher makes it go back to that state.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If i remove the second monitor, it goes back to that state, and if i launch a full screen game, same thing.
> 
> Now i imagine this to be because if i do any of those things, the refresh rate goes back into the 60hz range and it stops displaying. That said, i have a new cable comming tomorow, one that the owner used and knows works fine (im using a brand new one that he hadnt opened or used ever before)
> 
> EDIT; Fullscreen issues gone, only overclockinng above 57hz and single monitor with qnix issues remain
> 
> Is there anything i can try meanwhile? Im finding it hard to believe that the cable is the only issue for something so bizzare.
> 
> Extra info, its a gtx 760, the other screen is an old VGA (using DVI adapter) and im using windows 10, build 10586


Are you using the DVI cable that originally came with the monitor? did the seller give that to you as well with the purchase?
you need to use a dvi cable. not a vga/dvi cable or hdmi/dvi cable. the adapters wont work.

I'm deployed and cannot verify if windows 10 works to overclock the Qnix. I have one but was using Windows 7 on both my Asus GTX 760 Direct CUII and EVGA GTX 780tiSC rigs.


----------



## Guillnae

Waiting the
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liquored*
> 
> Are you using the DVI cable that originally came with the monitor? did the seller give that to you as well with the purchase?
> you need to use a dvi cable. not a vga/dvi cable or hdmi/dvi cable. the adapters wont work.
> 
> I'm deployed and cannot verify if windows 10 works to overclock the Qnix. I have one but was using Windows 7 on both my Asus GTX 760 Direct CUII and EVGA GTX 780tiSC rigs.


Yea i am using the cable that came from the box, lots of issues. Im currently waiting for the other cable to come in, kinda lost to be honest


----------



## sinnedone

I would start with unplugging second monitor. Try using DDU to remove all traces of drivers then reinstall drivers. If you are still having issues maybe try on board video to make sure its not graphic card problems.


----------



## Guillnae

O
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I would start with unplugging second monitor. Try using DDU to remove all traces of drivers then reinstall drivers. If you are still having issues maybe try on board video to make sure its not graphic card problems.


Will try that soon, waiting for the new DVI cable. However Integrated graphics wont be happening as my motherboard only has display port and HDMI


----------



## bigtingz92

Hello ladies and gentlemen!

After a bit of research (obviously not enough) I bought the QNIX qx2710 glossy, its a beaut of a monitor, but like a lot of other people, I have had some issues with it. My laptop has an SLI configuration, which I think confuses things slightly too. It has 2 HDMI outputs, one for each graphcs card, so I can attatch the monitor to the same GPU as the laptop screen, or the other one. I don't know what this means. I got different results from each HDMI, and with toggling SLI on and off. The HDMI on the right side of my laptop now no longer detects the monitor....








Anyway, I have connected it to my laptop with a HDMI to DVI-D adapter.

When I first plugged it in, there was no response. Turned it off and on again, as is the ceiling of my technical knowledge - nada.

I have managed to get it to be detected after running a program from:

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

when I took a print screen, I got both desktops back, good sign!


However, the screen that I usually see is this


or red, green, blue then greyscale on repeat

So I started fiddling around in the nVidia control panel, created a custom resolution with interlaced scan type instead of progressive and got this....

Which is closer, but its a desktop, with another desktop underneath - and it only lasts while I'm testing the custom profile.

Screenshot of custom resolution profile


It seems that I'm so close that it must be possible. I don't really want to go through the rigmarole of the return process, so here I am.

Any suggestions folks?

Cheers,
Brendan

PS
Here is a video of someone who managed to get it working through HDMI


----------



## kenshinsars

I recently picked up a X-Star DP2710, it worked great for about 4months, but lately the screen has been shutting off on its own, and Im have to mess with the power-blocks jack(sometimes it will spark when Im adjusting the jack) that plugs into the monitor to get it to come back on, this is happening more and more frequently, any suggestions, can anything be fixed or replaced to fix this issue ?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> I recently picked up a X-Star DP2710, it worked great for about 4months, but lately the screen has been shutting off on its own, and Im have to mess with the power-blocks jack(sometimes it will spark when Im adjusting the jack) that plugs into the monitor to get it to come back on, this is happening more and more frequently, any suggestions, can anything be fixed or replaced to fix this issue ?


Sounds like a fire hazard.. Is the jack loose on the monitor, or is it just something wrong with the power brick?

If it's the brick, you can replace it with a higher quality, UL listed universal laptop charger. Just check the ratings and make sure it's capable of providing the proper voltage and current.

If it's a loose connection in the monitor then you can just open up the panel, expose the circuit board, and repair the power connector. A new one can be found on Ebay for a couple bucks. It wouldn't take much in terms of soldering skills to repair the connection on the circuit board.


----------



## kenshinsars

No its not loose whatsoever, fits tight, just goes out. guess Ill check into another power brick.


----------



## IMI4tth3w

just in case anyone was having issues, just spent the last hour trying to get this figured out.

System configured as follows:

Windows 10
Gtx 780 ti with nvidia driver version 359.06
X-star korean 1440p

i was getting the error in the nvidia control panel that wouldn't allow any overclock to be applied. the reason was because there were multiple monitors plugged in. after unplugging the other monitors, the overclock applied just fine.

now after plugging the other monitors back in, it won't allow me to apply the overclock anymore. even with the profile there in the nvidia control panel. its not applying.

gonna keep looking into this..


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IMI4tth3w*
> 
> just in case anyone was having issues, just spent the last hour trying to get this figured out.
> 
> System configured as follows:
> 
> Windows 10
> Gtx 780 ti with nvidia driver version 359.06
> X-star korean 1440p
> 
> i was getting the error in the nvidia control panel that wouldn't allow any overclock to be applied. the reason was because there were multiple monitors plugged in. after unplugging the other monitors, the overclock applied just fine.
> 
> now after plugging the other monitors back in, it won't allow me to apply the overclock anymore. even with the profile there in the nvidia control panel. its not applying.
> 
> gonna keep looking into this..


Revert to 358.50 and you'll be fine with overclocking and multiple monitors


----------



## HaplessIdiot

I find that just using the nvlddmkm-patcher seems to force even the newest drivers to work with overclocking and multimonitors. I roll a MSI Lightning 980ti and 3 mismatch monitors.


----------



## HaplessIdiot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigtingz92*
> 
> Hello ladies and gentlemen!
> 
> After a bit of research (obviously not enough) I bought the QNIX qx2710 glossy, its a beaut of a monitor, but like a lot of other people, I have had some issues with it. My laptop has an SLI configuration, which I think confuses things slightly too. It has 2 HDMI outputs, one for each graphcs card, so I can attatch the monitor to the same GPU as the laptop screen, or the other one. I don't know what this means. I got different results from each HDMI, and with toggling SLI on and off. The HDMI on the right side of my laptop now no longer detects the monitor....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I have connected it to my laptop with a HDMI to DVI-D adapter.
> 
> When I first plugged it in, there was no response. Turned it off and on again, as is the ceiling of my technical knowledge - nada.
> 
> I have managed to get it to be detected after running a program from:
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> when I took a print screen, I got both desktops back, good sign!
> 
> 
> However, the screen that I usually see is this
> 
> 
> or red, green, blue then greyscale on repeat
> 
> So I started fiddling around in the nVidia control panel, created a custom resolution with interlaced scan type instead of progressive and got this....
> 
> Which is closer, but its a desktop, with another desktop underneath - and it only lasts while I'm testing the custom profile.
> 
> Screenshot of custom resolution profile
> 
> 
> It seems that I'm so close that it must be possible. I don't really want to go through the rigmarole of the return process, so here I am.
> 
> Any suggestions folks?
> 
> Cheers,
> Brendan
> 
> PS
> Here is a video of someone who managed to get it working through HDMI


Using anything but DVI inputs is not compatible with the monitor as it usually will fail to initialize the monitor. I have no clue how you are able to use that HDMI to DVI adapter. Hell it even says its not compatible on the store page.Newegg Why would you buy a product thats not compatable with your setup?


----------



## bigtingz92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaplessIdiot*
> 
> Using anything but DVI inputs is not compatible with the monitor as it usually will fail to initialize the monitor. I have no clue how you are able to use that HDMI to DVI adapter. Hell it even says its not compatible on the store page.Newegg Why would you buy a product thats not compatable with your setup?


Bought it becuase its the cheapest monitor of that quality, and the compatability issue isn't as bad as they say on the site - a few people have managed to get it working without a DVI output using HDMI or Displayport. My next effort will be buying a mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter and see if that works.


----------



## senatorsquires

Hey Everyone,

I have the QX2710LED (single input, overclock-able) as my main monitor. I just picked up the same monitor but with multi-inputs (non-overclock-able versions) as my 2nd monitor.

I love the color /temperature/brightness etc. settings of my single input version but can't get my new multi-input version to match (or even get that close) after fiddling with the AMD display color settings.

Is there a quick & easy way to match the 2 monitors settings ? has anyone successfully done this ?or should I have just spent the extra $100 on the single input version (i don't need to overclock my 2ndary monitor)

Thanks !


----------



## bbdale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaplessIdiot*
> 
> I find that just using the nvlddmkm-patcher seems to force even the newest drivers to work with overclocking and multimonitors. I roll a MSI Lightning 980ti and 3 mismatch monitors.


Interesting, so the patcher fixes it? Is it working stable? Any issues or anything? Were you able to use NVIDIA Control Panel to set the OC or did you have to use the CRU?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senatorsquires*
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I have the QX2710LED (single input, overclock-able) as my main monitor. I just picked up the same monitor but with multi-inputs (non-overclock-able versions) as my 2nd monitor.
> 
> I love the color /temperature/brightness etc. settings of my single input version but can't get my new multi-input version to match (or even get that close) after fiddling with the AMD display color settings.
> 
> Is there a quick & easy way to match the 2 monitors settings ? has anyone successfully done this ?or should I have just spent the extra $100 on the single input version (i don't need to overclock my 2ndary monitor)
> 
> Thanks !


They're probably two completely different panels, I doubt you could get them to match. You might be able to fiddle with the colors in the Nvidia control panel and get them close but that's just a maybe.. I'd definitely just get matching monitors with matching refresh rates - You'd be one more monitor away from a surround setup.


----------



## theswagdaaddy

I just bought the QNIX 2730r and i noticed that not many people actually talk about this here.

Can this be overclocked similar to the often mentioned 2710 models?


----------



## HaplessIdiot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigtingz92*
> 
> Bought it becuase its the cheapest monitor of that quality, and the compatability issue isn't as bad as they say on the site - a few people have managed to get it working without a DVI output using HDMI or Displayport. My next effort will be buying a mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter and see if that works.


Well if you somehow get it more stable and functional don't expect to be doing much monitor overclocking. The guy in the vid was only able to get 60hz working on a desktop gpu. I wish you luck.
Speaking of which, have you tried running the monitor at a super low refresh rate? Try 30hz and mayhaps it will succeed. Many adapters have hardware based restrictions on what pixel clocks they can even handle. Be certain the adapters you buy are compatible with dual link DVI as that is what the QNIX uses.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbdale*
> 
> Interesting, so the patcher fixes it? Is it working stable? Any issues or anything? Were you able to use NVIDIA Control Panel to set the OC or did you have to use the CRU?


No issues unless I update my drivers, as I have to repatch them every update. I use the CRU, I used to use the NVIDIA control panel until I noticed a bunch of my games werent actually running at my overclocked refresh rate. I used to run a GTX 570 and thats when I figured out CRU was the best option for compatibility. I remember having to jack my fans waaay up on that old gpu just so the scaler wouldn't overheat and crash the driver when I used the monitor in games.


----------



## bigtingz92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaplessIdiot*
> 
> Well if you somehow get it more stable and functional don't expect to be doing much monitor overclocking. The guy in the vid was only able to get 60hz working on a desktop gpu. I wish you luck.
> Speaking of which, have you tried running the monitor at a super low refresh rate? Try 30hz and mayhaps it will succeed. Many adapters have hardware based restrictions on what pixel clocks they can even handle. Be certain the adapters you buy are compatible with dual link DVI as that is what the QNIX uses.


Ok, thanks for the info. I'll give a test when I get home and buy the adapter this afternoon.

Cheers


----------



## Deluxe

Since today's update to Windows 10, I cannot use my custom resolutions anymore!
And when I try to make one, it says the test failed..









Anyone know a fix? Nvidia user here.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Since today's update to Windows 10, I cannot use my custom resolutions anymore!
> And when I try to make one, it says the test failed..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know a fix? Nvidia user here.


Try rolling back to 358.50 drivers per ToastyX? Some guys are also saying that now CRU helps with Win10 and custom refresh rates per the 2795 thread? IDK I don't even want to think about messing with Win10 until after the holidays, it seems as messed when Me or even Vista launched? Win10 thread *HERE* ...









Let us know how it works out?


----------



## HaplessIdiot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deluxe*
> 
> Since today's update to Windows 10, I cannot use my custom resolutions anymore!
> And when I try to make one, it says the test failed..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know a fix? Nvidia user here.


Try using the nvlddmkm-patcher and CRU. Works great for me in Win 10.


----------



## diverdown

I was running along happily with the pre Crimson catalyst drivers and upgraded to the new crimson driver.
During the install my OC 96hz Qnix 2710 went into the factory demo mode and now is locked in the that
cycle of green, red, blue and white screens. Power down, reboot, ect. won't fix. Anyone know how to get
out of this mode/cycle? TIA!


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diverdown*
> 
> I was running along happily with the pre Crimson catalyst drivers and upgraded to the new crimson driver.
> During the install my OC 96hz Qnix 2710 went into the factory demo mode and now is locked in the that
> cycle of green, red, blue and white screens. Power down, reboot, ect. won't fix. Anyone know how to get
> out of this mode/cycle? TIA!


How long have you had it? Sounds like a bad panel.. They have a tendency to either go in the first few days or wait 4-5 years. Get going on an exchange if you're within the return period.

In the meantime, try another cable and another PC to be sure it's not something weird going on with your drivers.


----------



## Deluxe

Turns out the last update somehow re-enabled driver signature forcing, and installed the default lcd.
Screwed over my soundblaster settings too for some reason.


----------



## diverdown

Thanks for the reply. I am going to find another dual link DVI card/computer/cable to try it with. The monitor was purchased in March 2015 from Accessories Wholesale with a 1 warranty. Was hoping for a reset key combo with monitor buttons to bring it back to life? Colored panels look great...no dead pixels on this one. I wonder how the new software and drivers could fry it? It went to this mode as the driver package was installing. Not coming out...easily!


----------



## diverdown

Happy ending to weird problem. Turned out that a new version of pixel patcher solved the problem. ie atikmdag-patcher-1.3.6
My R7 260X would not work with new Crimson driver unless it had this update. Monitor is fine at 100hz again.
Cheers!


----------



## mikemcc

This is my first message here, though I have been following this thread for at least a year. I just never got around to buying a QNIX until now. I just wanted to say that I am thrilled with this monitor. It arrived with no damage at all and there were no issues at all. The monitor is put together correctly with no gaps in the housing. The panel sits perfectly centered. There are no dead pixels. There is a small amount of light bleed from both bottom corners, but it is not noticeable at all unless the screen is completely black. I haven't watched a Netflix movie yet to see if it bothers me, but it is so insignificant that I can't imagine how it could. If it does, I will follow the excellent video posted here to make the correction.

I overclocked it immediately to 110, on a GTX 970. No problems at all. I tried 120, but got artifacts, so dropped back down to 110. All I had to do was install the .inf file and then I used the NVIDIA control panel to create the custom resolutions. I have done nothing else and the view is gorgeous. I am very happy with this purchase. Even the stand presents no problem. It is not wobbly at all. It is a little tight to tilt up and down, but I would rather have it a little tight than too loose. Once I have it adjusted to my liking, I don't expect I will have to adjust it very often.

The only minor problem was that the DVI-D cable was just barely long enough to reach the back of my computer under my desk. It made it, but it is somewhat tight and causes me to have to place the monitor slightly off center on my desk. That is no problem. I ordered a 10-foot cable from Monoprice that came to slightly under $10 with shipping.

Very nice monitor!

This is the one I got. It stays on sale until tomorrow: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7419&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-Monitors+-+LCD+Flat+Panel-_-9SIA4JH22E7419&gclid=CjwKEAiAkb-zBRC2upezwuyguQ4SJADZG08vjd8GiElA17JMv37T4YPzLR4KPPUTh3z9jA_OryCWzxoC5pTw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## Jacoblab

Recently my monitor has randomly started flashing weird colours then going completely black until I unplug it for about 5 minutes and plug it back in. After this it works fine for a random amount of time. Is something with the pcb broken? I've had it for two years now with no issues so this is really weird


----------



## bbdale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaplessIdiot*
> 
> Try using the nvlddmkm-patcher and CRU. Works great for me in Win 10.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaplessIdiot*
> 
> No issues unless I update my drivers, as I have to repatch them every update. I use the CRU, I used to use the NVIDIA control panel until I noticed a bunch of my games werent actually running at my overclocked refresh rate. I used to run a GTX 570 and thats when I figured out CRU was the best option for compatibility. I remember having to jack my fans waaay up on that old gpu just so the scaler wouldn't overheat and crash the driver when I used the monitor in games.


I tired the patch. The Nvidia Control Panel still does not allow me to set custom clocks. I tried CRU but Nvidia Control Panel still does not see the custom rates nor do I see them in Settings/Advanced Display Settings/Display Adapter Properties/Monitor. It still only shows me 59 and 60 hertz. CRU still shows the custom clocks that I set, but i have no way of actually setting to them. Any advice? Am I doing something wrong? Windows 10, 780 Ti here. Hate to have to go back to older drivers again.

Wonder what it is that Nvidia changed. This is really annoying, it used to work so well...

EDIT: Nevermind I got it working, thanks for the advice. Just can't really set it in the Nvidia Panel but can set it in advanced display adapter properties. Thanks a bunch. Still curious what Nvidia did to mess a good thing up.


----------



## aznguyen316

Picked up one of these guys off Craigslist from a nice guy. He claimed no dead pixels, so far so good. OC to 120Hz easily, I have it set to 110 using the timings to keep gpu clocks down at desktop. The stand does suck a lot, but the picture and all is great. QNIX2710LED manufacturer's date of 2014 Jan 16 I think if I am reading it correctly. Wonder which panel I have. It's kind of nice seeing the games that don't support 21:9 go full screen. Looks great.. I may keep this and sell my LG 29UM67. I'm enjoying the higher refresh over 75Hz freesync at the moment.


----------



## BulletSponge

Anyone have any problems with their QNIX randomly shutting off for a couple of seconds, power light flashes blue a few times then the monitor comes back on? I'm on 359.06 and stock clocks in Afterburner. I had the monitor at 96Hz since I bought it last year and switching to 60Hz seems to have stopped the problem. At the moment the monitor switches off their is an audible "click,click" which I have not yet determined if it is coming from the monitor or brick. The brick normally sits on the desk behind the monitor and a couple of weeks ago I found it hanging behind the desk where someone had knocked it off while I was at work.


----------



## gandalfthecool

Hello. I'm here to report that I've recently purchased a QNIX QX2710 from AccessoriesWhole on eBay. It cost me 256 EUR + ~ 60 EUR customs fees (Poland). So after all it cost me 1112 PLN + 269 PLN. The monitor shipped within 5 days (within 2 days it was in Poland, but the procedures at customs took almost three days). I ordered the non-SE version, came with one dead pixel in the corner that I haven't seen since I've checked. No BLB or other issues. Just wanted to throw in my .02 for other Poles who are curious how much customs fees they'd have to pay. Also, I have no reason not to recommend AccessoriesWhole, everything went smoothly (I didn't contact them even once). I can post proof of purchase or some other crap if it's required, I'm too lazy to do it now though







Peace.


----------



## pjwebster

I have just picked up a second hand X-Star DP2710 and have a query which I'm hoping you guys can help with, my current / previous monitor is a Dell U2412M just so you know what I'm comparing the X-Star with. The issue that I'm having is that when scrolling the image goes blurred and takes a fraction of a second to stabilise I'm not sure if this is input lag or bad response times but it is noticeable and not something I am happy about as my Dell does not have this issue. I have not tried gaming yet so don't know if I will notice this, hopefully not. I have had a quick go at overclocking and 96 is achievable but 120 is not, however this does not seem to affect the issue I am writing about. One thing I would query is the monitor lead that came with the screen must be around 3m long, do you think that a shorter lead may help?

Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

/Edit: DVI cable is 5M long not 3M as I thought and obviously isn't the original, is it worth getting a 1.8m cable and if so are there any recommended makes / suppliers in the UK?


----------



## TelFiRE

I did everything in the OP and then went to the test website and it says I'm only doing 60hz. Nvidia control panel says I'm running 96. I don't see any troubleshooting steps anywhere in the OP. Any advice?

QX2710 with i7/GTX 970 (rolled back to 358.50 since latest versions break overclocking altogether)

Edit: ummm... never mind. Just takes a minute to uh.. kick in I guess? Weird.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TelFiRE*
> 
> I did everything in the OP and then went to the test website and it says I'm only doing 60hz. Nvidia control panel says I'm running 96. I don't see any troubleshooting steps anywhere in the OP. Any advice?
> 
> QX2710 with i7/GTX 970 (rolled back to 358.50 since latest versions break overclocking altogether)
> 
> Edit: ummm... never mind. Just takes a minute to uh.. kick in I guess? Weird.


use ie or Firefox. Chrome does this for me too.


----------



## Davayy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> use ie or Firefox. Chrome does this for me too.


I had the same thing - wouldn't register >60hz in Chrome. I think I managed to work out what it was.

If you go to Chrome // Settings > Advanced Settings > Check Hardware Acceleration (If it is checked already and doesn't work try unchecking it - I can't remember which way round it is).
Restart Chrome and then try again.


----------



## rsilvers

I have had an X-Star for a few years. I just dug it out and trying to get it working on my Macbook that has HDMI out.

The Macbook will drive another monitor in 1080P. And I tested the cable as good with my TV.

Plugging the Mac into the X-Star gives a black display. I did the alt/option key and that did not detect anything, but when I plug it into my Mac, the Mac display blinks black for a second, so it notices the monitor being plugged in.

I plugged an Apple TV into the X-Star and some out-of-sync graphics come on the display.

is the problem just that my Mac won't output 1440P at what this monitor is expecting?


----------



## Bleakwise

Quick question.

What is the difference between these two...
Qnix 2710 Evolution II
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7394&cm_re=qnix_2710_glossy-_-0JC-0009-00030-_-Product

Qnix 2710 Evolution II SE
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH2NP8621&cm_re=qnix_2710_glossy-_-9SIA4JH2NP8621-_-Product

These are both the DVI-DL only panels, not the True10 or Multi inputs, so what is the deal? Beyond the guarantees they offer on dead pixels, do they use different panels or something?

I've Googled and Binged and searched multiple forums and can't seem to find the answer.


----------



## the9quad

I think that question has been answered in this thread a bunch of times. I think the SE is really just a name for monitors that are even lower grade than the non-se, I could be wrong though.


----------



## Davayy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bleakwise*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> What is the difference between these two...
> Qnix 2710 Evolution II
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH22E7394&cm_re=qnix_2710_glossy-_-0JC-0009-00030-_-Product
> 
> Qnix 2710 Evolution II SE
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH2NP8621&cm_re=qnix_2710_glossy-_-9SIA4JH2NP8621-_-Product
> 
> These are both the DVI-DL only panels, not the True10 or Multi inputs, so what is the deal? Beyond the guarantees they offer on dead pixels, do they use different panels or something?
> 
> I've Googled and Binged and searched multiple forums and can't seem to find the answer.


Taken from here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *"TomCatV*
> "SE" Models ... my take on this comes directly from QNIX Korean reps ...
> The "SE" models = "Second Edition", they started coming out 1st qtr this year and have a less stringent QC. Allowed pixel defects will be less stringent if they are even fully tested to begin with ... it varies from seller to seller ... so read the fine print before buying!
> This would only relate to the panels pixel quality and would not effect the PCB or OC ability whatsoever. I also don't think you'll ever find an "SE" model with a "Pixel Perfect" option? Note: we have seen plenty of SE models with no pixel defects AS reported by the user. If I had a choice though I'd always pick the NON SE model 1st!


----------



## Estoa

hi i'm about to buy one of these so i came up to some sellers on ebay.

My doubt comes to this seller which has the Qnix on a 25% discount. English is not my mother language so i dont get it. they are trying to say that all the monitors have defects or they are showing an example of a defect that will make the item refundable??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?hash=item19f724ae9f:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e

Guys please answer quick; but thoughtfully







so i can safely enjoy the 1440p gloriousness


----------



## orangucan

Hello guys,

I am desperatly trying to get my monitor working. I bought one QNIX QX2710 DVI-Only on ebay but unfortunatly it does not really work. It only works in safe mode or if I do not have any NVIDIA drivers installed. It does get enough power and its working fine if there is no nvidia software. I tried older versions but it does not help. I nearly tried everything but it still won't work. Can someone help me please? I am using a Palit GTX 970 with the DVI port. Somehow this monitor does not properly work if the drivers are installed. Now I read that there might be an EDID problem. I looked up in the registry and there were 2 default monitors and both of them have "BAD_EDID". Thanks in advance.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orangucan*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I am desperatly trying to get my monitor working. I bought one QNIX QX2710 DVI-Only on ebay but unfortunatly it does not really work. It only works in safe mode or if I do not have any NVIDIA drivers installed. It does get enough power and its working fine if there is no nvidia software. I tried older versions but it does not help. I nearly tried everything but it still won't work. Can someone help me please? I am using a Palit GTX 970 with the DVI port. Somehow this monitor does not properly work if the drivers are installed. Now I read that there might be an EDID problem. I looked up in the registry and there were 2 default monitors and both of them have "BAD_EDID". Thanks in advance.


Try page one of this thread. There is some info about the QNIX monitor.inf that should give a proper EDID. It's under overclocking guide, step 2.


----------



## orangucan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Try page one of this thread. There is some info about the QNIX monitor.inf that should give a proper EDID. It's under overclocking guide, step 2.


I allready tried it. I installed the inf file but it did not help me a bit. In the device-manager there is the qnix but it says that it is not connected "Code 45". I do not know what to do and I hope that someone in this forum experienced the same problem.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Estoa*
> 
> hi i'm about to buy one of these so i came up to some sellers on ebay.
> 
> My doubt comes to this seller which has the Qnix on a 25% discount. English is not my mother language so i dont get it. they are trying to say that all the monitors have defects or they are showing an example of a defect that will make the item refundable??
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?hash=item19f724ae9f:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e
> 
> Guys please answer quick; but thoughtfully
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i can safely enjoy the 1440p gloriousness


Read the description. It says "off grade", which means its a lower quality unit with defects. I would avoid any off-grade displays.


----------



## blued

Has anyone bought a glossy Qnix recently? Prices are down quite a bit and am thinking of taking a gamble.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111482846269

Currently have a Qnix matte (bought in early 2014) which I am happy with, just wish it was glossy. Also have a catleap glossy but dont like its high stand. And as much of a glossy lover I am, I still sometimes prefer the PLS matte in some situations. So would love to see a glossy PLS and compare it vs the catleap and keep one and sell the other.

Now the low price of these Qnixs has me worried in that they most likely have cut corners on quality and are now shoddier constructed units than before. ie, no full frames vs originals, just corner braces in plastic housing, panel not properly seated, etc.

So anyone bought a glossy Qnix within last 3 months or so? Your thoughts?


----------



## Estoa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Read the description. It says "off grade", which means its a lower quality unit with defects. I would avoid any off-grade displays.


thank you man


----------



## HiddenFatKid

Hey guys! Happy holidays to you all!
I got that christmas money, and i've had my eye on this monitor for awhile, and with 2 970's I should be able to play at pretty decent framerates!
My one question is: Where do I get the one that OC's to 96+?
I know it's the single DVI-D input monitor, so this one would work?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH3FS0253&cm_re=qx2710-_-9SIA4JH3FS0253-_-Product

sorry if it's a dumb question!!


----------



## Davayy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiddenFatKid*
> 
> Hey guys! Happy holidays to you all!
> I got that christmas money, and i've had my eye on this monitor for awhile, and with 2 970's I should be able to play at pretty decent framerates!
> My one question is: Where do I get the one that OC's to 96+?
> I know it's the single DVI-D input monitor, so this one would work?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH3FS0253&cm_re=qx2710-_-9SIA4JH3FS0253-_-Product
> 
> sorry if it's a dumb question!!


Happy Christmas! Yes that is the correct one that overclocks (potentially over 100hz) but how far depends on the monitor itself. My one runs fine at 115 - 120hz with tighter timings, but some others won't. It's luck of the draw to some extent, but you should be able to reach 96hz without problem.


----------



## HiddenFatKid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davayy*
> 
> Happy Christmas! Yes that is the correct one that overclocks (potentially over 100hz) but how far depends on the monitor itself. My one runs fine at 115 - 120hz with tighter timings, but some others won't. It's luck of the draw to some extent, but you should be able to reach 96hz without problem.


Thanks man! Just made my christmas a whole lot better!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Has anyone bought a glossy Qnix recently? Prices are down quite a bit and am thinking of taking a gamble.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/111482846269
> 
> Currently have a Qnix matte (bought in early 2014) which I am happy with, just wish it was glossy. Also have a catleap glossy but dont like its high stand. And as much of a glossy lover I am, I still sometimes prefer the PLS matte in some situations. So would love to see a glossy PLS and compare it vs the catleap and keep one and sell the other.
> 
> Now the low price of these Qnixs has me worried in that they most likely have cut corners on quality and are now shoddier constructed units than before. ie, no full frames vs originals, just corner braces in plastic housing, panel not properly seated, etc.
> 
> So anyone bought a glossy Qnix within last 3 months or so? Your thoughts?


I had one come through my hands about 6mos ago for a build I was doing. Great deal $205 and the end user loved it.
The static desktop background pic was quite nice and almost on par with my other glossy's (see sig). It had NO BLB or dead pixels and easily overclocked to 120Hz ...

BUT for me that's where the love affair ended! Within minutes I could tell this was the newer L07 and had PWM diming. Beyond the associated eyestrain it can cause for some like me, what surprised me more, was how awful it looked in fast paced gaming. Besides the known ghosting caused by heavy PWM, the screen actually became "blurry" for me right as you initiate fast moves. I must admit I'm hyper-sensitive coming from the golden days of Pro CRT's and for many this may not be a problem, especially @$220! But IMHO I doubt you will find it worthy to replace your Cat2B or even the Matte QNIX









Many others should chime in and if your not sensitive to PWM and aren't hyper-critical/sensitive to some ghosting then these are the best deals on the planet for 1440p/IPS with overclocking ... and who knows you may get lucky and get one of the older stock L02s


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I had one come through my hands about 6mos ago for a build I was doing. Great deal $205 and the end user loved it.
> The static desktop background pic was quite nice and almost on par with my other glossy's (see sig). It had NO BLB or dead pixels and easily overclocked to 120Hz ...
> 
> BUT for me that's where the love affair ended! Within minutes I could tell this was the newer L07 and had PWM diming. Beyond the associated eyestrain it can cause for some like me, what surprised me more, was how awful it looked in fast paced gaming. Besides the known ghosting caused by heavy PWM, the screen actually became "blurry" for me right as you initiate fast moves. I must admit I'm hyper-sensitive coming from the golden days of Pro CRT's and for many this may not be a problem, especially @$220! But IMHO I doubt you will find it worthy to replace your Cat2B or even the Matte QNIX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many others should chime in and if your not sensitive to PWM and aren't hyper-critical/sensitive to some ghosting then these are the best deals on the planet for 1440p/IPS with overclocking ... and who knows you may get lucky and get one of the older stock L02s


Thanks. I guess I'll give it a pass then. Was kind of hoping they may have resumed with L02 panels and maybe no PWM. Cant understand why earlier models (mostly) did not use PWM and now most seem to have it. Isnt PWM a function of the PCB design? Or is that dependent on panel version as well where L07s have it and L02s do not? Anyway, looks like I'll just wait a little longer and see what else may come up on the korean monitor scene over next few weeks/months.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Read the description. It says "off grade", which means its a lower quality unit with defects. I would avoid any off-grade displays.


I thought ALL Qnix monitors are offgrade. SE ones are just more offgrade.


----------



## doysh

How do these Korean single-input monitors compare to gaming monitors such as the ASUS VG248QE, for example, when it comes to input lag?

I'm looking to replace my 1080P VG248QE with a 1440p monitor that is preferably IPS, can go above 60hz, and has low input lag suitable for FPS games such as CS and UT.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I thought ALL Qnix monitors are offgrade. SE ones are just more offgrade.


A- vs A+ you mean, which yes, is off-grade vs a 'perfect panel'. For an A+ panel, you pay through the nose and get an Apple. Anything below that is 'off grade' by definition, and that applies to all korean monitors not just Qnix. But when 'off'grade' applies to korean monitors (as in ebay description), it means a further step down in 'off-grade'. Which could mean more BLB, worse uniformity, more dead pixels, poor panel fit and/or other defects not generally seen in other korean monitors.

I have an SE version with zero BLB, no dead pixels, L02 panel, does 120hz without issue and is 100% SRGB after calibration. A keeper by any korean monitors standards.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doysh*
> 
> How do these Korean single-input monitors compare to gaming monitors such as the ASUS VG248QE, for example, when it comes to input lag?
> 
> I'm looking to replace my 1080P VG248QE with a 1440p monitor that is preferably IPS, can go above 60hz, and has low input lag suitable for FPS games such as CS and UT.


Read the preceding page. Qnix has changed in panel specs and quality and is more of a lottery buy now than ever. Better choice re korean monitors:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


----------



## doysh

Cool, thanks.

About input lag, if the monitor is single input, does that mean there's virtually no input lag because there's no fancy hardware adding ms, making it suitable for faster games requiring quick reactions like the ones I mentioned?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doysh*
> 
> Cool, thanks.
> 
> About input lag, if the monitor is single input, does that mean there's virtually no input lag because there's no fancy hardware adding ms, making it suitable for faster games requiring quick reactions like the ones I mentioned?


With single input monitors, there is no scalar and the GPU has more of a direct connection to the panel. So there is less input lag, but not "no input lag". No monitor has 'no input lag', just that it may be reduced enough to where it is not an issue.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> A- vs A+ you mean, which yes, is off-grade vs a 'perfect panel'. For an A+ panel, you pay through the nose and get an Apple. Anything below that is 'off grade' by definition, and that applies to all korean monitors not just Qnix. But when 'off'grade' applies to korean monitors (as in ebay description), it means a further step down in 'off-grade'. Which could mean more BLB, worse uniformity, more dead pixels, poor panel fit and/or other defects not generally seen in other korean monitors.
> 
> I have an SE version with zero BLB, no dead pixels, L02 panel, does 120hz without issue and is 100% SRGB after calibration. A keeper by any korean monitors standards.


Thats what I said in more words


----------



## Denjiki

So just got a Qnix 2710 Matte monitor from newegg, haven't played around TOO much with OCing but my primary concern right now is the sort of minor yellowish tint to it. My second monitor is an Asus VE278Q, and there is a very clear difference when I do a side-by-side comparison. The white is MUCH more vivid and clear on the asus monitor while it is sort of an off-color on the QNIX. I've downloaded color sustainer and tried several different profiles including the "favorite" profiles.zip file from the OP and some other different ones as well. None seem to change the issue.

I realize they are two different monitors, but I was under the impression the QNIX monitor was going to be better than my old asus. Perhaps I'm missing something as this is my first time really doing any monitor calibrations? Is it possible I have a defective monitor or is this normal for this model? I dont appear to have any dead pixels or significant backlight bleeding problems.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denjiki*
> 
> So just got a Qnix 2710 Matte monitor from newegg, haven't played around TOO much with OCing but my primary concern right now is the sort of minor yellowish tint to it. My second monitor is an Asus VE278Q, and there is a very clear difference when I do a side-by-side comparison. The white is MUCH more vivid and clear on the asus monitor while it is sort of an off-color on the QNIX. I've downloaded color sustainer and tried several different profiles including the "favorite" profiles.zip file from the OP and some other different ones as well. None seem to change the issue.
> 
> I realize they are two different monitors, but I was under the impression the QNIX monitor was going to be better than my old asus. Perhaps I'm missing something as this is my first time really doing any monitor calibrations? Is it possible I have a defective monitor or is this normal for this model? I dont appear to have any dead pixels or significant backlight bleeding problems.


Enjoy your new monitor







Also check on the first page to load some of the pre calibrated colour profiles. Maybe you will find one that works for you. Can you maybe take a picture of your yellow tint so I can see how major it is. I kinda prefer a bit of a yellow/orange tint as it relaxes my eyes a bit but not to much. I would love to have a calibrator so I can calibrate my monitor to perfection. But been running mine for years and love this monitor. It's god for gaming not perfect as the Rog swift or Acer g-sync monitors but they are way to expensive and this was way cheaper and g-sync wasn't available at time. I was actually thinking of getting a g-sync panel but I thought to myself if Nvidia wants most or every gamer to own g-sync panels then they have to make it cheaper. That's the reason why I'm not upgrading. I had my montior at 96hz when I was running my r9 280x crossfire setup and it ran just fine. Since I got my 980 ti I felt ok 96hz is not enough cause in some games like BF4 and some other games I can pretty much max out and get 96FPS all the time so I tweaked a few settings and got 110Hz out of it and can manage 110fps all the time (Except for huge explosions and so on) with Max settings minus the AA. So happy with this monitor and for the price nothing beats it in Value.

As far as I can see I have zero BLB and zero Dead pixels and by using one of the pre calibrated color profiles on page 1 I'm pretty happy with the colours. Like I said I have one installed with a bit of a yellow tint and that I like. So Good luck with your new monitor. Hope you can get 120hz and if you can make another one for 96Hz just for the games you sttruggle to handle 120hz so you can get a smooth experience with no stutter.


----------



## xzamples

i have been reading that these monitors have problems with nvidia drivers, people have to rollback to older drivers in order to get something to work... really disappointing and it's the main issue aside from the others keeping me away from these monitors


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xzamples*
> 
> i have been reading that these monitors have problems with nvidia drivers, people have to rollback to older drivers in order to get something to work... really disappointing and it's the main issue aside from the others keeping me away from these monitors


Never experienced any sort of driver issue with mine.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xzamples*
> 
> i have been reading that these monitors have problems with nvidia drivers, people have to rollback to older drivers in order to get something to work... really disappointing and it's the main issue aside from the others keeping me away from these monitors


I have the very latest drivers 361.43 and this monitor works as it should. I can run 110hz so don't know if people are just doing it wrong or if I'm just lucky. I tested many games and I can do 110hz. Just make sure you install the monitor drivers as well otherwise some games won't detect the refresh rate properly.

Soem people even get BSOD with latest drivers but for me not a single issue with the latest drivers it's actually working better than the 359.06 (I think that's the number of previous driver) Driver.


----------



## SeekerZA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I have the very latest drivers 361.43 and this monitor works as it should. I can run 110hz so don't know if people are just doing it wrong or if I'm just lucky. I tested many games and I can do 110hz. Just make sure you install the monitor drivers as well otherwise some games won't detect the refresh rate properly.
> 
> Soem people even get BSOD with latest drivers but for me not a single issue with the latest drivers it's actually working better than the 359.06 (I think that's the number of previous driver) Driver.


Same here. Zero issues. Worked on all my previous nvidia display drivers @120Hz










Have the monitor driver installed as well


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Same here. Zero issues. Worked on all my previous nvidia display drivers @120Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have the monitor driver installed as well


Yes I want to go with a g-sync monitor but I don't know if it's worth the upgrade. I feel on 110hz this Qnix of mine is just plain awesome. The games I playu I get my 110FPS about 85-80% of the time so I suppose it's not a huge upgrade for me. It might solve a little bit of microstutter. I want to see a g-sync panel on my pc first before I buy it.


----------



## joeh4384

I just had to delete and recreate my custom resolution on the latest drivers.


----------



## orangucan

How can I check whether my monitor does use the 110Hz in the games? I overclocked it with NVCP and it seems to work fine. Ufotest gives me the correct information. And I got another question. In this ufo test, is it better to have less pixels per frame with higher Hz? It looks smoother but I thought the pixels per frame should increase with higher Hz.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## bbdale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xzamples*
> 
> i have been reading that these monitors have problems with nvidia drivers, people have to rollback to older drivers in order to get something to work... really disappointing and it's the main issue aside from the others keeping me away from these monitors


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Never experienced any sort of driver issue with mine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> I have the very latest drivers 361.43 and this monitor works as it should. I can run 110hz so don't know if people are just doing it wrong or if I'm just lucky. I tested many games and I can do 110hz. Just make sure you install the monitor drivers as well otherwise some games won't detect the refresh rate properly.
> 
> Soem people even get BSOD with latest drivers but for me not a single issue with the latest drivers it's actually working better than the 359.06 (I think that's the number of previous driver) Driver.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeekerZA*
> 
> Same here. Zero issues. Worked on all my previous nvidia display drivers @120Hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have the monitor driver installed as well


The issue appears if you have multiple monitors in situations where your other monitors are different from the QNIX and are at different clocks. I have a 1080 and a 900 monitor alongside me 1440, thus I cannot OC from the nVidia Panel. There is a workaround - you must use the CRU tool. It works for me - but the nVidia Panel does not allow you to overclock. I haven't tried the newest drivers yet, mostly due to lazyness.


----------



## Axiomatik

It's not letting me overclock though CRU either...


----------



## jztheman

Hi guys, i just received this cheap 144hz QX2414 monitor. Got a few questions to ask

1) what is the front button located at the bottom right corner for? as i press it in, the whole button went inside and is now unusable.


2) As I'm playing CS:GO on a 4:3 1024x786 resolution, i get black bars. did my research, it seems amd+win10 fked up the 4:3 resolution thing, is there any fix around it?

Currently using Hotkey Resolution Changer v1.2 to bypass this issue.

I'm on Graphics Chipset
AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series

Radeon Software Version
15.12

Windows 10 64bit


----------



## minlillaponny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jztheman*
> 
> Hi guys, i just received this cheap 144hz QX2414 monitor. Got a few questions to ask
> 
> 1) what is the front button located at the bottom right corner for? as i press it in, the whole button went inside and is now unusable.
> 
> 
> 2) As I'm playing CS:GO on a 4:3 1024x786 resolution, i get black bars. did my research, it seems amd+win10 fked up the 4:3 resolution thing, is there any fix around it?
> 
> Currently using Hotkey Resolution Changer v1.2 to bypass this issue.
> 
> I'm on Graphics Chipset
> AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series
> 
> Radeon Software Version
> 15.12
> 
> Windows 10 64bit


1: That button makes the magic happens. No seriously, it's not doing anything and it's just a dummie. I pressed mine to and it kinda went in half way.
2: Remember reading a simular thread about that and i think there's a third party software for that solution.


----------



## shaolin95

Guys do you think this monitor will work with a AMD Radeon HD 6530D 512mb?


----------



## jztheman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaolin95*
> 
> Guys do you think this monitor will work with a AMD Radeon HD 6530D 512mb?


does your card support dual-link dvi?

this monitor can only run on that.

DVI, VGA, mini display port or HDMI wun work..


----------



## Adamvg

Got my Qnix today. Paid a total of 220 pounds including fees. Runs like a charm and went straight to 137hz. (Sadly no 144hz)


----------



## cah192

I'm having a terrible issue. I need help. I bought this monitor months ago and OC'd it. Ever since then my second monitor randomly flashes black. Esepcially when I launch a game. I'm using a GTX 970 and this only happened when I got the Qnix. Does anyone know what's wrong?


----------



## Adamvg

Resolution of the 2nd monitor? What is it using (dvi/hdmi/dp)? How often does this happen?

Anyway without this info, I'm going to go ahead and say that it's your 970 since I've no problem with my AMD Radeon 7990.. Could be a card design flaw (unlikely), a driver problem (much more likely), or a faulty port on the GPU. Try plugging the 2nd monitor into another port on the 970. Seen quite a few people on here that have Nvidia without this problem however, so the driver issues seem less likely. Check your settings however.


----------



## cah192

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adamvg*
> 
> Resolution of the 2nd monitor? What is it using (dvi/hdmi/dp)? How often does this happen?
> 
> Anyway without this info, I'm going to go ahead and say that it's your 970 since I've no problem with my AMD Radeon 7990.. Could be a card design flaw (unlikely), a driver problem (much more likely), or a faulty port on the GPU. Try plugging the 2nd monitor into another port on the 970. Seen quite a few people on here that have Nvidia without this problem however, so the driver issues seem less likely. Check your settings however.


The thing is. It mainly happens when I'm in a game. When I launched Wolfenstein: The New Order & WoW it made the second monitor (first monitor is fine) flash black over and over. But it's normal when I'm not in a game except for a few flashes. This only happened once I got the QNIX. I was using The second as my main and had another monitor as my second (with the 970) and it NEVER did that. The second monitor is an ASUS 1080p IPS monitor and my main is a QNIX 1440p glossy OC'd to 100Hz


----------



## Davayy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adamvg*
> 
> Got my Qnix today. Paid a total of 220 pounds including fees. Runs like a charm and went straight to 137hz. (Sadly no 144hz)


Wow, not sure I've seen one that high before.
What timings are you using? I can get mine to 120 stable but anything beyond and I get lines / no show.


----------



## Jacoblab

My x-star that I've had for two years has started acting really strange in the last month or so. The screen will randomly go a sort of greenish colour, then the screen will go black (the blue power light will still be on). Pressing the power light does not do anything, but if I unplug the monitor from the power cord and leave it for about 10 minutes it will work again for abit. If I unplug it then replug it back in quickly it doesn't work. It's really annoying and am wondering it could be something wrong with the power cord or does it sound like an issue with the monitor itself? Do I need to buy a new monitor?


----------



## Davayy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> My x-star that I've had for two years has started acting really strange in the last month or so. The screen will randomly go a sort of greenish colour, then the screen will go black (the blue power light will still be on). Pressing the power light does not do anything, but if I unplug the monitor from the power cord and leave it for about 10 minutes it will work again for abit. If I unplug it then replug it back in quickly it doesn't work. It's really annoying and am wondering it could be something wrong with the power cord or does it sound like an issue with the monitor itself? Do I need to buy a new monitor?


Are you running it overclocked at all? If so, reset that overclock and return everything to default timings / refresh rate.
If not, try to replace the power cord - does the power brick feel hot at all?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davayy*
> 
> Are you running it overclocked at all? If so, reset that overclock and return everything to default timings / refresh rate.
> If not, try to replace the power cord - does the power brick feel hot at all?


^This, I had an issue with mine after a year or so where my screen would go black and the power light would just flash blue. I noticed the green light on the brick was flashing also. The brick had always gotten super hot when the monitor was at 96Hz or above. I ordered a new brick on Amazon for $8.99 and all is good again. It gets warm but not "Holy Crap!" hot like the original.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


----------



## Shimorgi

I just got my Qx2710, but ran into some problems overclocking it. At 110hz it looks like the entire screen is filled with faint horizontal scan lines and at 120hz there will be green lines everywhere. I've tried using a new dvi-d cable but it didn't change much. The only strange thing I've noticed is the usa power adapter they provided was really loose, and would fall out of the power socket at the slightest touch.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shimorgi*
> 
> I just got my Qx2710, but ran into some problems overclocking it. At 110hz it looks like the entire screen is filled with faint horizontal scan lines and at 120hz there will be green lines everywhere. I've tried using a new dvi-d cable but it didn't change much. The only strange thing I've noticed is the usa power adapter they provided was really loose, and would fall out of the power socket at the slightest touch.


Have you tried 96hz?

Just like anything else overclocking is not guaranteed.


----------



## minlillaponny

Hi again guys. Back with a new problem and hopefully there's someone here that know what to do.
I was a AMD user until today. Now i running with a Nvidia and i can't import new ICC profiles.

If i import a new ICC it doesn't appear in the list, and the color is not even changing. Is there any setting i've missed?

EDIT: Solved it. I've forgot to place them in \Windows\system32\spool\drivers\color


----------



## Davayy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shimorgi*
> 
> I just got my Qx2710, but ran into some problems overclocking it. At 110hz it looks like the entire screen is filled with faint horizontal scan lines and at 120hz there will be green lines everywhere. I've tried using a new dvi-d cable but it didn't change much. The only strange thing I've noticed is the usa power adapter they provided was really loose, and would fall out of the power socket at the slightest touch.


As someone said, 110 hz may be a bit too high for your monitor. That said, have you tried changing the timings? I found that initially at 120hz, my monitor would display green lines; however, once i changed my timings (as per the front page of this thread) I could run 120hz with no problems.


----------



## Puttputt777

Does anyone know if the monitors being sold by accessorieswhole are any good?
They have a great sale on ebay right now $199

The true10 still overclock to 85mhz right? Anyone tested the input lag on the multis?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb#viTabs_0&rmvSB=true


----------



## fatalfable

i recently got a qnix monitor. the one with only a dvi -d port. do they work if you plug them into the motherboard? i dont have a graphics card and im hoping thats the issue otherwise it seems to be dead on arrival. Only half the screen displays anything and what it does display is just a jittery white image with a red line. also severe backlight bleed on the bottom. but thats another problem on its own. i think im going to have to return it


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puttputt777*
> 
> Does anyone know if the monitors being sold by accessorieswhole are any good?
> They have a great sale on ebay right now $199
> 
> The true10 still overclock to 85mhz right? Anyone tested the input lag on the multis?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/121362611435?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c41c67ceb#viTabs_0&rmvSB=true


Wish I had more info to work with (sys specs/main use etc?) But trust me and spend the appx +$100 and get the Crossover 2795 *HERE* ... especially if gaming is important to you and you don't want to deal w/PWM diming!









True10's have noticeable "input lag", nothings changed ... see my post *HERE* also in the OP









Welcome to OCN ... see my Sig to fill in your specs









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatalfable*
> 
> i recently got a qnix monitor. the one with only a dvi -d port. do they work if you plug them into the motherboard? i dont have a graphics card and im hoping thats the issue otherwise it seems to be dead on arrival. Only half the screen displays anything and what it does display is just a jittery white image with a red line. also severe backlight bleed on the bottom. but thats another problem on its own. i think im going to have to return it


It quite clearly states in the Ebay ads that integrated graphics (mobo GPU) will not support these monitors even if it is a Dual-DVI connection ... you need a dedicated graphics card ... there is probably nothing wrong with the monitor if you connect it properly ... some guys have gotten away with using an "Active" adaptor (pricey $80+) HDMI-->Dual-DVI, but it is not guaranteed to work on every system ... sorry for the bad news hope that helps ...









Welcome to OCN ... see my Sig to fill in your specs


----------



## elvar

Hey all, I just finished with my new gaming rig which contains a MSI 980 ti 6G Gaming which only has a single DVI port so I hooked up my 2nd monitor to the HDMI port. I noticed that whenever my HDMI monitor is plugged in I cannot go above 60hz. Is there a way to get the overclock to work on the QNIX monitor while having the second monitor plugged in via HDMI?

Kind regards,


----------



## Adamvg

Must be something in your drivers. Not an Nvidia user myself, I hate the company, but I doubt even they are that stupid to lock something like that down. Have you patched your driver to allow custom resolutions?


----------



## Puttputt777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Wish I had more info to work with (sys specs/main use etc?) But trust me and spend the appx +$100 and get the Crossover 2795 *HERE* ... especially if gaming is important to you and you don't want to deal w/PWM diming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> True10's have noticeable "input lag", nothings changed ... see my post *HERE* also in the OP


I really don't care for overclocking the monitor above 80mhz+
In reality I was looking for a reasonable monitor around 27" that wasn't too costly, but something I can count on not to have dead pixels. Originally looking more in the $150-$179 range to be honest.

Is this monitor going to be significantly better than some other Asus or Dell monitor i'd find on newegg? Or not so much?

Thanks for the reply!


----------



## gabead

Hello all, been awhile since I have posted anything on here. Been mostly browsing through. Last night I ordered a QNIX monitor on ebay. It is a multiport that supposedly has Dynamic Overclocking. We will see about that. It seems to be a new line of PLS monitors that has just recently come out. I know for the most part what type of test I should do, but to be sure if you can come up with some good programs (free) for me to use to check dead pixels, frame drops etc just let me know and when I receive the monitor I will see how well it does. The two negatives off bat that I know of more will likely be the built in speakers and possibly the 8ms Response Time. The link is below. Not sure if I should start a new thread when I get it, but seems like most QNIX users are here. I will take pictures as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121789275268?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## elvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adamvg*
> 
> Must be something in your drivers. Not an Nvidia user myself, I hate the company, but I doubt even they are that stupid to lock something like that down. Have you patched your driver to allow custom resolutions?


Yeah, my drivers are patched. Keep in mind, it works fine when I unplug the 2nd monitor which is connected via HDMI. As soon as I plug in the second monitor the refresh rate on the primary monitor drops to 60hz.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puttputt777*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Wish I had more info to work with (sys specs/main use etc?) But trust me and spend the appx +$100 and get the Crossover 2795 *HERE* ... especially if gaming is important to you and you don't want to deal w/PWM diming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> True10's have noticeable "input lag", nothings changed ... see my post *HERE* also in the OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't care for overclocking the monitor above 80mhz+
> In reality I was looking for a reasonable monitor around 27" that wasn't too costly, but something I can count on not to have dead pixels. Originally looking more in the $150-$179 range to be honest.
> 
> Is this monitor going to be significantly better than some other Asus or Dell monitor i'd find on newegg? Or not so much?
> 
> Thanks for the reply!
Click to expand...

Well without more complete info, I'll just say "Not so Much"









Do you have a GPU to drive 1440p for your most used apps/games?

Huge difference in picture quality going from ...
1) 1080p-->1440p
2) TN-->IPS/PLS

Really Huge difference in smoothness / responsiveness going from ...
1) 60Hz-->96Hz/120Hz/144Hz refresh rates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabead*
> 
> Hello all, been awhile since I have posted anything on here. Been mostly browsing through. Last night I ordered a QNIX monitor on ebay. It is a multiport that supposedly has Dynamic Overclocking. We will see about that. It seems to be a new line of PLS monitors that has just recently come out. I know for the most part what type of test I should do, but to be sure if you can come up with some good programs (free) for me to use to check dead pixels, frame drops etc just let me know and when I receive the monitor I will see how well it does. The two negatives off bat that I know of more will likely be the built in speakers and possibly the 8ms Response Time. The link is below. Not sure if I should start a new thread when I get it, but seems like most QNIX users are here. I will take pictures as well.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121789275268?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


You'll be fine posting here for now ... if this monitor can do 85Hz without dropping frames (see OP for tests) then it may be an OK monitor as at least it is a Samsung PLS panel unlike the other QNIX True10's (AH-VA panel). The 4K promotion is just nonsense when we have DSR. Also wish it came in a glossy or even PDC (plasma deposition coating) as the 3H matte coating it has is so 2013. Also check for PWM dimming, didn't see it as promoting "Flicker Free"? (full test *HERE*) ... Quick easy test is to take your smartphone, open the camera app and just look at the image (no need for pic) and if it has the "grey" bars like in the pic below, bummer it has PWM diming, although this may not be an issue for some? There is a whole battery of tests *HERE* that I find useful (contrast/black lvls/uniformity/pixel inversion etc)









Looking forward to your results and impressions









Left has PWM diming ...


Frame dropping @75Hz/100Hz/120Hz (grey boxes/frames not continuous) ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elvar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Adamvg*
> 
> Must be something in your drivers. Not an Nvidia user myself, I hate the company, but I doubt even they are that stupid to lock something like that down. Have you patched your driver to allow custom resolutions?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, my drivers are patched. Keep in mind, it works fine when I unplug the 2nd monitor which is connected via HDMI. As soon as I plug in the second monitor the refresh rate on the primary monitor drops to 60hz.
Click to expand...

If your running Win10 and/or the newer Nvidia drivers this is a common problem with no difinitive fix yet ... many of us are sticking with Win7/8 for many other reasons besides this until M$ gets it together ... see *HERE* ... you could try rolling back your drivers or even going back to Win7/8 if that is the case?


----------



## lurker2501

Patching latest AMD drivers breaks icon display in Windows 10. After reboot when you add a new refresh rate all of the icons are gone. Using R9 290/QNIX 2710LED with whql-radeon-software-crimson-edition-16.1-64bit-win10-win8.1-win7-jan7 driver. Example:


----------



## gabead

Thanks for all the useful information. I don't really buy into the 4k virtual as well. I will look over all the links, pictures, and tests examples and compare to the monitor I got (when it gets here). I had thought about the Crossover 2975 but for some reason I just gravitated to this one as it didn't have any reviews yet. If this dosen't turn out well I can always upgrade later! LOL.


----------



## bbdale

With the new update I got it working again. I am now able to overclock the refresh rate from the nVidia panel even with multiple monitors. Make sure "Enable resolutions not exposed by the display" is checked. Seems to work after that.


----------



## 176355

So, finally got OCd to 120hz, go me. Did the frame skip test and it seems to be valid, but the color profiles don't actually seem to be doing anything that I can notice. Will it hurt anything to just leave it at 120hz?


----------



## Loder333

Hey all,

I posted this question a few days ago over at the overclocking/new timings thread but haven't had any luck, so hopefully you don't mind me posting it here, too. Basically, I upgraded from a 770 to a 980ti and lost the ability to reach 120hz without running into problems.

I've been running a 120hz overclock on my X-Star DP2710LED with a GTX 770 for quite some time now without any custom drivers or utilities (just a custom resolution in NVCP.) I was able to use automatic timings without getting any scanlines or other issues. However, I just upgraded to a GTX 980ti and suddenly I'm having massive scanline issues. I installed the x-star driver and tried the various manual timings recommended in the OP and linked thread, and while the tightened timings got rid of most or all of the horizontal scan lines, I can still see smaller vertical scanlines in certain spots, and larger, more visible ones when gaming.

Basically, I know the monitor can reach 120hz and I'm not sure how to fix the fact that it suddenly doesn't work with the 980ti. Are there any additional timing changes that I can try, or anything else that might help? Or am I doomed to settle for a lower refresh rate with the new card for some reason? It would be a real bummer to lose my 120hz capability when part of the reason I upgraded my card was to be able to handle [email protected] for some games! If anyone has any insight regarding things to try, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loder333*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I posted this question a few days ago over at the overclocking/new timings thread but haven't had any luck, so hopefully you don't mind me posting it here, too. Basically, I upgraded from a 770 to a 980ti and lost the ability to reach 120hz without running into problems.
> 
> I've been running a 120hz overclock on my X-Star DP2710LED with a GTX 770 for quite some time now without any custom drivers or utilities (just a custom resolution in NVCP.) I was able to use automatic timings without getting any scanlines or other issues. However, I just upgraded to a GTX 980ti and suddenly I'm having massive scanline issues. I installed the x-star driver and tried the various manual timings recommended in the OP and linked thread, and while the tightened timings got rid of most or all of the horizontal scan lines, I can still see smaller vertical scanlines in certain spots, and larger, more visible ones when gaming.
> 
> Basically, I know the monitor can reach 120hz and I'm not sure how to fix the fact that it suddenly doesn't work with the 980ti. Are there any additional timing changes that I can try, or anything else that might help? Or am I doomed to settle for a lower refresh rate with the new card for some reason? It would be a real bummer to lose my 120hz capability when part of the reason I upgraded my card was to be able to handle [email protected] for some games! If anyone has any insight regarding things to try, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


I would just be guessing, but a better DVI-D cord? shorter/thicker? They aren't that expensive and worth a try (like $6). Try one of those 24AWG 3ft cables from monoprice, they are really thick and inflexible though, so maybe the 28awg one would work too, much easier to work with.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209

I think I use the 28awg one, and it is great, but if I were you I would order both and worse comes ot worse you are only out $12, and you still have the cables which are good. That way if one doesnt work (too inflexible) maybe the other will









Alot of people can not get higher clocks with thinner cables, and maybe the 980ti makes that difference compared to your 770. Worth a try for $6 like I said.


----------



## Puttputt777

I've been researching for about a week now and have compiled a list of great deals in the 27" monitor range, with good amazon reviews. Curious if people really think 1080 isn't enough for the 27" size

Qnix True10 at 1440 $199 via ebay
hp 27wx at 1080 $199 via Amazon
Viewsonic VX2858sml at 1080 $179
AOC e2752She at 1080 $159
Acer G276HL at 1080 $169

Would definitely be willing to hear about more about people's experience in this category is like. What are your biggest features for a monitor? Panel type? PWM? Resolution? Which meets the most of your requirements at a reasonable price?


----------



## Loder333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I would just be guessing, but a better DVI-D cord? shorter/thicker? They aren't that expensive and worth a try (like $6). Try one of those 24AWG 3ft cables from monoprice, they are really thick and inflexible though, so maybe the 28awg one would work too, much easier to work with.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209
> 
> I think I use the 28awg one, and it is great, but if I were you I would order both and worse comes ot worse you are only out $12, and you still have the cables which are good. That way if one doesnt work (too inflexible) maybe the other will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alot of people can not get higher clocks with thinner cables, and maybe the 980ti makes that difference compared to your 770. Worth a try for $6 like I said.


Thanks, I'll try that! I live in Canada, so they'll probably take a while to arrive. If anyone has any other ideas to try in the meantime, I'm all ears!


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Patching latest AMD drivers breaks icon display in Windows 10. After reboot when you add a new refresh rate all of the icons are gone. Using R9 290/QNIX 2710LED with whql-radeon-software-crimson-edition-16.1-64bit-win10-win8.1-win7-jan7 driver. Example:


anyone?


----------



## gabead

Not sure If I can help but, have you tried to unistall the update and resinstall the original driver you were using before to see if your icons come back? If they do I would completely uninstall the original driver and start with a clean slate and retry the newer ones again to see if the problem comes back again.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabead*
> 
> Not sure If I can help but, have you tried to unistall the update and resinstall the original driver you were using before to see if your icons come back? If they do I would completely uninstall the original driver and start with a clean slate and retry the newer ones again to see if the problem comes back again.


Already tried that. Doesn't work. As soon as I add resolution and reboot the icons are gone. Also the scaling is reset to default for some reason.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loder333*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I posted this question a few days ago over at the overclocking/new timings thread but haven't had any luck, so hopefully you don't mind me posting it here, too. Basically, I upgraded from a 770 to a 980ti and lost the ability to reach 120hz without running into problems.
> 
> I've been running a 120hz overclock on my X-Star DP2710LED with a GTX 770 for quite some time now without any custom drivers or utilities (just a custom resolution in NVCP.) I was able to use automatic timings without getting any scanlines or other issues. However, I just upgraded to a GTX 980ti and suddenly I'm having massive scanline issues. I installed the x-star driver and tried the various manual timings recommended in the OP and linked thread, and while the tightened timings got rid of most or all of the horizontal scan lines, I can still see smaller vertical scanlines in certain spots, and larger, more visible ones when gaming.
> 
> Basically, I know the monitor can reach 120hz and I'm not sure how to fix the fact that it suddenly doesn't work with the 980ti. Are there any additional timing changes that I can try, or anything else that might help? Or am I doomed to settle for a lower refresh rate with the new card for some reason? It would be a real bummer to lose my 120hz capability when part of the reason I upgraded my card was to be able to handle [email protected] for some games! If anyone has any insight regarding things to try, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Pure speculation on my part but I don't think Maxwell handles higher pixel clocks as well as Kepler did








It would be interesting to hear ToastyX's thoughts on this? ... If I still had my 680's I could run more tests ... but my 130Hz+ QNIX no longer goes that high, with the 980Ti it now does 122Hz ... I'd be more convinced if I could test my Overlord with my old 680 as I suspect it may have reached 120Hz instead of the 112Hz max I get with my 980Ti ...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Puttputt777*
> 
> I've been researching for about a week now and have compiled a list of great deals in the 27" monitor range, with good amazon reviews. Curious if people really think 1080 isn't enough for the 27" size
> 
> Qnix True10 at 1440 $199 via ebay
> hp 27wx at 1080 $199 via Amazon
> Viewsonic VX2858sml at 1080 $179
> AOC e2752She at 1080 $159
> Acer G276HL at 1080 $169
> 
> Would definitely be willing to hear about more about people's experience in this category is like. What are your biggest features for a monitor? Panel type? PWM? Resolution? Which meets the most of your requirements at a reasonable price?


Geez ... is English not your 1st language? Do you think we have ESP? How can anyone provide you with suggestions if you won't answer the basic questions? The reason this thread exists is we all concur that 1440p/IPS/96Hz++ is light years ahead of 1080p/TN/60Hz! ... I suggest you make a general post/questions in the main "Monitors and Displays" section ...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gabead*
> 
> Not sure If I can help but, have you tried to unistall the update and resinstall the original driver you were using before to see if your icons come back? If they do I would completely uninstall the original driver and start with a clean slate and retry the newer ones again to see if the problem comes back again.
> 
> 
> 
> Already tried that. Doesn't work. As soon as I add resolution and reboot the icons are gone. Also the scaling is reset to default for some reason.
Click to expand...

Win10 strikes again







... problem with rolling back the driver is W10 will keep updating the GPU driver until you edit the registry, and then that potentially leads to ... blah blah blah ... Try a completely clean W10 install, you can now use your W7/8 key to activate it so you don't go through the whole M$ upgrade from your previous OS if that is the case. Otherwise join the "many" and stick with what works W7/8


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Pure speculation on my part but I don't think Maxwell handles higher pixel clocks as well as Kepler did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be interesting to hear ToastyX's thoughts on this? ... If I still had my 680's I could run more tests ... but my 130Hz+ QNIX no longer goes that high, with the 980Ti it now does 122Hz ... I'd be more convinced if I could test my Overlord with my old 680 as I suspect it may have reached 120Hz instead of the 112Hz max I get with my 980Ti ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Geez ... is English not your 1st language? Do you think we have ESP? How can anyone provide you with suggestions if you won't answer the basic questions? The reason this thread exists is we all concur that 1440p/IPS/96Hz++ is light years ahead of 1080p/TN/60Hz! ... I suggest you make a general post/questions in the main "Monitors and Displays" section ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Win10 strikes again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... problem with rolling back the driver is W10 will keep updating the GPU driver until you edit the registry, and then that potentially leads to ... blah blah blah ... Try a completely clean W10 install, you can now use your W7/8 key to activate it so you don't go through the whole M$ upgrade from your previous OS if that is the case. Otherwise join the "many" and stick with what works W7/8


Windows update is disabled and the driver is installed using driver cleaner from guru3d. That issue is no version related. I suspect it's just a batch of borked os files specific to my system as I haven't encountered anything like this before.


----------



## mike0925

Sorry guys in new and instead of going through 800 pages thought I'd ask. I just bought a qnix 2710 Samsung pls dvi monitor. Currently running Windows 10 64 bit. Graphics card is a msi r9 390 with dual dvi slots. I am a noob when it comes to computers. What do I need to download/install and do to overclock the monitor. Thanks in advance.


----------



## elvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elvar*
> 
> Hey all, I just finished with my new gaming rig which contains a MSI 980 ti 6G Gaming which only has a single DVI port so I hooked up my 2nd monitor to the HDMI port. I noticed that whenever my HDMI monitor is plugged in I cannot go above 60hz. Is there a way to get the overclock to work on the QNIX monitor while having the second monitor plugged in via HDMI?
> 
> Kind regards,


FYI - I fixed this by buying a DVI to Display Port adapter from Newegg.


----------



## gabead

Here is a good guide to get you started.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-AMD-ATI-Pixel-Clock-Patcher. It is outdated but still worked for me when I used those instructions.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike0925*
> 
> Sorry guys in new and instead of going through 800 pages thought I'd ask. I just bought a qnix 2710 Samsung pls dvi monitor. Currently running Windows 10 64 bit. Graphics card is a msi r9 390 with dual dvi slots. I am a noob when it comes to computers. What do I need to download/install and do to overclock the monitor. Thanks in advance.


You should start here.


----------



## Dry Bonez

Hey everyone, i have a 980ti, and a 2710 qnix @96hz. when i go to device manager and try updating the "generic monitor" to the driver for qnix, it gives an error the "3rd party inf does not contain digital signature". Yet i am still able to play games @96hz, am i fine?


----------



## gabead

If you are at 96hz and not skipping frames you are fine. The drivers should not matter. I have a different qnix monitor and no drivers and Im not having any issues.


----------



## mike0925

Thanks gabead and bulletsponge. I have tried to do my research. There's very little info about compatibility with windows 10. And the only video I found taking about Windows 10 said about installing drivers for the qnix which I have never heard of before? But I will read through the links you guys provided and like I said all info is appreciated.


----------



## RodinK

I'm having similar problem with skipping frames as well

I just got a QNIX 2710 Revolution 2 with samsung pls panel and DVI-D only input.

My computer specs are i7 4790k, r9 290, 8gb ram in Win7.

I followed all the instructions and installed ATI pixel patcher as well as setting custom refresh rate in CRU.

At 96 hz, I see very noticable frame skips visible to my blind eye in ufo frameskip test.

Furthermore, after while of frame skip testing, ufo test recognizes the screen refresh rate back to 60hz from the 96hz for some reason.

I have latest Radeon catalyst (or whatever it is called now)

Anyone else have a problem similar to mine? Any response is appreciated!


----------



## gabead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RodinK*
> 
> I'm having similar problem with skipping frames as well
> 
> I just got a QNIX 2710 Revolution 2 with samsung pls panel and DVI-D only input.
> 
> My computer specs are i7 4790k, r9 290, 8gb ram in Win7.
> 
> I followed all the instructions and installed ATI pixel patcher as well as setting custom refresh rate in CRU.
> 
> At 96 hz, I see very noticable frame skips visible to my blind eye in ufo frameskip test.
> 
> Furthermore, after while of frame skip testing, ufo test recognizes the screen refresh rate back to 60hz from the 96hz for some reason.
> 
> I have latest Radeon catalyst (or whatever it is called now)
> 
> Anyone else have a problem similar to mine? Any response is appreciated!


I have a similar issue with a different Qnix monitor. I can get all the way to 100mhz but have a couple of frames dropping. I knocked it down to 96hz and I only have one skip framed. I still notice some performance (how much exactly not sure). I turned off my monitor a couple of nights ago and when I went to check the frames again, ufo reported that my monitor was running at 60hz even thought windows display properties showed it at 96hz. I reset it and went back to the ufo website and it once again registered 96hz. I left the monitor on last night instead of turning it off and when I get back home from work today I am going to check if it went back to 60hz. I think turning it of may have something to do with but I could totally be wrong. Once again I do see some improvement in my games. I haven't noticed that " one" frame skipping. I only tried three games though and they were Tera, ESO, and Assasins Creed Syndicate.


----------



## RodinK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabead*
> 
> I have a similar issue with a different Qnix monitor. I can get all the way to 100mhz but have a couple of frames dropping. I knocked it down to 96hz and I only have one skip framed. I still notice some performance (how much exactly not sure). I turned off my monitor a couple of nights ago and when I went to check the frames again, ufo reported that my monitor was running at 60hz even thought windows display properties showed it at 96hz. I reset it and went back to the ufo website and it once again registered 96hz. I left the monitor on last night instead of turning it off and when I get back home from work today I am going to check if it went back to 60hz. I think turning it of may have something to do with but I could totally be wrong. Once again I do see some improvement in my games. I haven't noticed that " one" frame skipping. I only tried three games though and they were Tera, ESO, and Assasins Creed Syndicate.


Thanks for the reply. Are you using Radeon cards by any chance? I was wondering if this issue was due to graphic card firmware or not


----------



## gabead

Yes im using a Sapphire 390 Nitro


----------



## minlillaponny

96Hz was the limit on my AMD card. Now with a Nvidia i'm at 110Hz with no problems.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minlillaponny*
> 
> 96Hz was the limit on my AMD card. Now with a Nvidia i'm at 110Hz with no problems.


Its a crapshoot on what a particular card will do with a particular monitor. Some people do fine at 120hz on AMD then switch to nvidia and cant do 120hz and vice versa. heck two pages ago we had a guy who was doing 120hz fine on an old nvidia card, bought a 980ti and now cant do 120hz.

doing 120hz fine here btw.


----------



## FrostyAMD

Hey There People !!.
I'm prepared to purchase two Perfect Pixel QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] 27" 2560x1440 PLS PC Monitor or two of these Perfect Pixel QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] 27" 2560x1440 PLS PC Monitor.from accessorieswhole. and I have a coupla questions.

1. First is would you pay an extra forty dollars for a pixel perfect or take a chance on getting on getting a good panel with a with a maximum of 3 dead/stuck pixels.From what I'm reading the chances are good that I'll get a good panel with either 1-2 dead/stuck pixels or really luck out and get a perfect screen. forty bucks x 2 seems to be a hefty price differential.

2. Second is a question of Customs fees. Since I live in the US I did not think I would/should have to pay any additional fees. I know I did not when I purchased two of these same branded models back in 2013. But in reading the ad for the monitor and Ebay's Customs and Tax Policy. Along with reading some posts on this and other forums I don't want to be surprised !!!. Please advise me on your experiences.


----------



## the9quad

I didn't pay fees in us.


----------



## RodinK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrostyAMD*
> 
> Hey There People !!.
> I'm prepared to purchase two Perfect Pixel QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] 27" 2560x1440 PLS PC Monitor or two of these Perfect Pixel QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] 27" 2560x1440 PLS PC Monitor.from accessorieswhole. and I have a coupla questions.
> 
> 1. First is would you pay an extra forty dollars for a pixel perfect or take a chance on getting on getting a good panel with a with a maximum of 3 dead/stuck pixels.From what I'm reading the chances are good that I'll get a good panel with either 1-2 dead/stuck pixels or really luck out and get a perfect screen. forty bucks x 2 seems to be a hefty price differential.
> 
> 2. Second is a question of Customs fees. Since I live in the US I did not think I would/should have to pay any additional fees. I know I did not when I purchased two of these same branded models back in 2013. But in reading the ad for the monitor and Ebay's Customs and Tax Policy. Along with reading some posts on this and other forums I don't want to be surprised !!!. Please advise me on your experiences.


I wouldn't pay extra 40 bucks to get perfect pixel. I can't really see or pick out dead pixels on 1440p screens but that's just me. However, if the perfect pixel model guarantees no backlight bleeding you should absolutely do so. My current monitor has 3 massive backlight bleeding spots that looks horrendous on black screen. I'm too afraid to open this monitor up and do manual fixing because I might **** up the panel.

Also, mine was sent to U.S and wasn't charged for customs


----------



## blackhole2013

Ok used NCP and my 2710 runs 96hz but 110 and 120 both make the screen go with green lines in it . Is 96hz all mine can do or can i change anything in the NCP to get it to 120hz I have a 980ti


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> Ok used NCP and my 2710 runs 96hz but 110 and 120 both make the screen go with green lines in it . Is 96hz all mine can do or can i change anything in the NCP to get it to 120hz I have a 980ti


It's the panel not the card. A 980ti won't make those green lines go away. A 980ti is only a worthwhile upgrade if you are having trouble hitting 96fps. My QNIX will hit 110 without any issues but the first original power brick got "fry an egg" hot and eventually had to be replaced. I haven't run mine at 110 again since replacing the brick but I will say I can tell the difference between 96 and 110 in BF4. 110Hz+ is where the magic happens. It was smooth enough to fool my inner ear and give me the occasional twinge of vertigo.


----------



## shadoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> It's the panel not the card. A 980ti won't make those green lines go away. A 980ti is only a worthwhile upgrade if you are having trouble hitting 96fps.


Sorry if thats a stupid question but are there replacement pcbs? Maybe some that hit higher rates?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadoom*
> 
> Sorry if thats a stupid question but are there replacement pcbs? Maybe some that hit higher rates?


There are too many different variants of the 2710 out there for me too give an informed opinion. It would be an extreme gamble if anything. If you bought a single DVI input 2710 and 96Hz is your max you might be better off selling it and ordering another if it matters that much too you. These monitors are like the lottery. You have to be willing to take a risk and accept what you get on refresh rate at the current prices.


----------



## LukasCS

Has anyone here taken apart one of the newer revisions of the panel? I just recently purchased a Glossy QX2710 and I'm in love with the panel and overclockability (I got mine to 110Hz). I want to put it on my own custom VESA stand but in order to do that I'll need to remove the stem that connects the monitor to the stand. Is the process the same for taking them apart or is there anything I should be looking out for? Thanks


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LukasCS*
> 
> Has anyone here taken apart one of the newer revisions of the panel? I just recently purchased a Glossy QX2710 and I'm in love with the panel and overclockability (I got mine to 110Hz). I want to put it on my own custom VESA stand but in order to do that I'll need to remove the stem that connects the monitor to the stand. Is the process the same for taking them apart or is there anything I should be looking out for? Thanks


I ordered a big, ugly (that's an understatement) Monoprice stand to put mine on but did not remove the "stem". I watched one video on Youtube that involved opening the monitor and decided against it. The sound of that case being popped open scared me off.


----------



## LukasCS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> I ordered a big, ugly (that's an understatement) Monoprice stand to put mine on but did not remove the "stem". I watched one video on Youtube that involved opening the monitor and decided against it. The sound of that case being popped open scared me off.


Thanks for the reply. I figured with the stem there I wouldn't have the clearance to add a VESA stand, but now that I know that won't be an issue, guess who's not opening up their monitor?







and I assume your talking about this stand? http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LukasCS*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I figured with the stem there I wouldn't have the clearance to add a VESA stand, but now that I know that won't be an issue, guess who's not opening up their monitor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I assume your talking about this stand? http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2


That's the one. I had to use a couple of washers at each mounting point, the screws included with the stand were too long to screw all the way into the monitor. Without washers the screws will bottom out with about 3/16" of space left over.


----------



## LukasCS

How bad do you guys consider this backlight bleed?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LukasCS*
> 
> 
> 
> How bad do you guys consider this backlight bleed?


It always looks worse in a photo to me. I can hardly notice it myself sitting in front of my monitor but when I take a picture of it.........



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Now that I've taken that picture it's gonna drive me nuts. Hmm, my daughters been wanting a new monitor. I should give her this one and order another


----------



## LukasCS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> It always looks worse in a photo to me. I can hardly notice it myself sitting in front of my monitor but when I take a picture of it.........
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I've taken that picture it's gonna drive me nuts. Hmm, my daughters been wanting a new monitor. I should give her this one and order another


Yeah, I can really hardly notice mine unless I'm on a fully black background, which is really rare. overall I'm pretty happy with my monitor for $200, no dead pixels, a bit of BLB, and 110hz with the included DVI-D cable.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LukasCS*
> 
> Yeah, I can really hardly notice mine unless I'm on a fully black background, which is really rare. overall I'm pretty happy with my monitor for $200, no dead pixels, a bit of BLB, and 110hz with the included DVI-D cable.


Where did you get yours? I bought mine a long time ago through Amazon for @$320. My daughter wants one and since she only plays LoL and TF2 her GTX 760 should be able to handle it.

Edit-NM, I see Newegg has them for $199 and it's the same source I got my original from, MNW Global.


----------



## LukasCS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Where did you get yours? I bought mine a long time ago through Amazon for @$320. My daughter wants one and since she only plays LoL and TF2 her GTX 760 should be able to handle it.
> 
> Edit-NM, I see Newegg has them for $199 and it's the same source I got my original from, MNW Global.


\

I actually got it from seller Green-Sum on eBay, it was the perfect pixel glossy model on sale for a day or two, they sold out pretty quick!


----------



## llBadassll

I bought one of these year and half ago (Single input type) for 300$ , I just checked the prices and it has dropped massively !!
200$ is just too good <3
can anyone explain to me whats happening ? because I might give the 10bit type a try
And is it Overclockable ? if the answer is yes whats the limit ?
Thanks in advance


----------



## clause

Hi guys,

So recently I'm curious and wanting to get a 1440p and I've heard about this qx2710.

I can't seem to find the single DVI port only. Is that something that you have to ask the seller?

Also does anyone have experience of 1080p as their main and 1440p as their secondary? If yes how is it?

I want to see how it is before getting a much better 144hz 1440p screen to be honest.

Is this still the go to for a korean monitor?

Many thanks!


----------



## mercnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clause*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> So recently I'm curious and wanting to get a 1440p and I've heard about this qx2710.
> 
> I can't seem to find the single DVI port only. Is that something that you have to ask the seller?
> 
> Also does anyone have experience of 1080p as their main and 1440p as their secondary? If yes how is it?
> 
> I want to see how it is before getting a much better 144hz 1440p screen to be honest.
> 
> Is this still the go to for a korean monitor?
> 
> Many thanks!


the non true10 are generally dvi only, like http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

i use to do 1920x1200 and 1440p; and i found i really wanted to go to two 1440p monitors, then i dropped the 1920x1200 monitor.

my first one was glossy (before i knew better) and second one was matte, and much preferred the matte. atm i'm using two qx2710s (one old, one new) and a 4k monitor. and the heights are all about the same. and i think that's something you have to be careful of. a lot of 1080p monitors are small .. the 1920x1200 ones are a bit safer as at least the height is similar..

i don't think there's much in the way of better 144hz 1440p monitors other than that really expensive asus. my old qx2710 overclocks to 120hz fine, but tbh i struggle to notice the difference between 96 and 120; even though the difference between 60 and 96 is like night and day.


----------



## clause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercnz*
> 
> the non true10 are generally dvi only, like http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> i use to do 1920x1200 and 1440p; and i found i really wanted to go to two 1440p monitors, then i dropped the 1920x1200 monitor.
> 
> my first one was glossy (before i knew better) and second one was matte, and much preferred the matte. atm i'm using two qx2710s (one old, one new) and a 4k monitor. and the heights are all about the same. and i think that's something you have to be careful of. a lot of 1080p monitors are small .. the 1920x1200 ones are a bit safer as at least the height is similar..
> 
> i don't think there's much in the way of better 144hz 1440p monitors other than that really expensive asus. my old qx2710 overclocks to 120hz fine, but tbh i struggle to notice the difference between 96 and 120; even though the difference between 60 and 96 is like night and day.


I see, thanks for your input. Yeah i'm currently running a DELL 2407WFP 1920 x 1200 and a BENQ XL2411T (144Hz) 1920x1080.

I'm so tempted with more screen real estate and just overall a better one. I'm running 980TI so it should be okay powering the 1440p.

There are so many variations to it that it confuses me. So is it safe to assume I should go for the DVI only input if I want to overclock it?


----------



## casual864

Hello all,

I'm curious about the purchasing a QNIX2710.

I found one fairly cheap on Craigslist $150 and I was wondering if my GPU can run it pass 100hz?

The seller told me that he can get to 110 hz but anything after would cause lines to show up on the monitor.

I have a EVGA GTX 980 Ti reference card and it doesn't have a DVI-D input.

Would it still be possible to overclock this monitor on the DVI-I input through the GTX 980 Ti?

Here's a link to my GPU.

Thank you.









Edit:

This monitor can be OCed with the GTX 980 Ti reference even though it has a DVI-I the DVI-D cable that came with the monitor OC's the monitor fine. I'm sitting at 104 hz. Anything over 110 causes lines.


----------



## LukasCS

If I'm not mistaken, its still a Dual-Link DVI-I, so it should work just fine. I'm not sure that you'll be able to achieve as high of an overclock though.


----------



## blackhole2013

I just realized that i will stick at 60 hz i ran assassins creed unity and batman arkham night at 96 hz and it looks like dookie to me


----------



## sinnedone

It shouldn't look different at all.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> I just realized that i will stick at 60 hz i ran assassins creed unity and batman arkham night at 96 hz and it looks like dookie to me


Have you patched the "Generic PnP" monitor driver with the QNIX.inf?


----------



## casual864

Question I just got this monitor today and it looks fantastic.

I OCed the panel to 104 hz.

If I set the brightness to max on the monitor to prevent PWM, how can I control the brightness and lower it with software?

My NvCP doesn't change the brightness. It'll change for a split second and go back to full whenever I slide the brightness down.

Thanks!


----------



## efatty

I got the QX2710 back in December 2015 and I recently ran into a pretty weird and concerning issue. Here is my story.

It worked well right off the bat. I could overclock straight to 96 Hz but 110 and 120 Hz gave me scary green lines so I mainly rocked at the default 60 Hz. Everything worked until last weekend. I was away last weekend and so when I came back to my computer on Monday I went to turn it on and nothing was displaying on my QX2710 but my 1080p LG monitor was still working. So I tried updating my display drivers, reverting my display drivers using different cables with no success. The one thing that will make my monitor work is using my GPU HDMI out with a HDMI to DVI-D adapter. So for some reason my monitor will work with an HDMI adapter but not DVI-D to DVI-D. And to top it all off, today when I was checking some things with I was able to get it to do a color cycle (red, green, blue, white, black) while it was plugged in DVI to DVI.

I have an XFX R9 280X.

Has anyone else had this issue? Am I forced to only being able to use this adapter or is it fixable? I would love some help.

TLDR; Monitor works with an HDMI cable plus HDMI to DVI-D adapter but will not work (color cycles) with DVI-D to DVI-D.


----------



## blackhole2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Have you patched the "Generic PnP" monitor driver with the QNIX.inf?


Yes I did ..


----------



## slamedcards

Does anyone have any experience overclocking the QNIX QHD2730R ZERO DP, or know if people have gotten these monitors to 100hz ? I really like the super slim bezels but I don't want to be stuck at 85hz like a true 10 model.


----------



## bozy12

hey,

got my Qnix2710 (DVI-D only version) 2014. i got my 980ti yesterday and my screen keeps black. does this happen because my qnix only have a DVI-*D* and my 980 ti just a DVI-*I* port? i cant trial n' error with a second monitor because i dont own one with dvi-i, dp, hdmi one. on my television the screen also keeps black, input over hdmi. adapters also doesnt work









so is my 980ti just broken or do i have to get a new monitor?


----------



## Haas360

Got a question for you guys,

Just recently my QNIX monitor at 60HZ just started to show banding lines through the screen. Regardless of connection or input. Any idea what would have caused this? More importantly how to fix and if QNIX supports RMA?

EDIT:

Looks just like this users old issue:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WinterWarz*
> 
> Hey guys, I swapped my 970 for a 290 and now my Qnix monitor is showing weird lines. I'm using the same DVI cable as before and the computer picks up the monitor but they don't go away.
> 
> Is there a fix for this or is the monitor dead? I ordered it in February from accessorieswhole so I should still have warranty.


----------



## caenlen

Hi, I use qnix 1440p nvidia control panel, qnix driver installed, etc. i have my monitor at 108hz, but everytime i try to play netflix screen turns fuzzy, everything else works fine tho, games and ushc are fine at 108hz, i have to manually go back to 60hz to watch netflix in Chrome.

anyone else experience this or have a fix for it?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

Hey all, I just tried to set custom resolution for 120hz like i have before and it says my monitor does not support this resolution when I try to test it.

only diff from usual is win10 I think

this is with the timings in this guide though, usually I had a different source with more examples(I wish that was here this condensed guide is BAD)


----------



## Jacoblab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> My x-star that I've had for two years has started acting really strange in the last month or so. The screen will randomly go a sort of greenish colour, then the screen will go black (the blue power light will still be on). Pressing the power light does not do anything, but if I unplug the monitor from the power cord and leave it for about 10 minutes it will work again for abit. If I unplug it then replug it back in quickly it doesn't work. It's really annoying and am wondering it could be something wrong with the power cord or does it sound like an issue with the monitor itself? Do I need to buy a new monitor?


Just an update, the monitor is not overclocked at all. I ordered a new power cord + brick when you guys recommended it, and it just arrived today. I plugged it all in, and about 5 minutes after plugging it in, the screen went black once again. So I guess it has to be something wrong with the monitor








Is my only option at this point to order a new monitor?


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> Hi, I use qnix 1440p nvidia control panel, qnix driver installed, etc. i have my monitor at 108hz, but everytime i try to play netflix screen turns fuzzy, everything else works fine tho, games and ushc are fine at 108hz, i have to manually go back to 60hz to watch netflix in Chrome.
> 
> anyone else experience this or have a fix for it?


this is because you are using tightened timings. It will force the card into 3d clocks which does it not play nice with chrome when hardware acceleration is used. Use 96hz profile with lcd standard timings and enjoy.


----------



## Atomagenesis

Been rocking 110hz solid on original powerbrick and not patching qnix.ini for a 2.5 years straight now.

Just thought some people might like to know


----------



## DiceAir

So I have some money to get the Dell s2716DG here in South Africa. I want to know if anyone have experience using that monitor and a qnix. Will I suffer image quality a lot or does that dell monitor use one of the better TN panels.

I'm using the qnix qx2710 evolution II with PLS panel overclocked to 110hz. My system is 980ti, 4790k, 16gb ram. So I gain g-sync for ultra smooth gameplay and 144hz for when I can reach it. I want to buy it because of g-sync and 144hz. The faster response is not a big deal as my qnix in games where I can reach my fps I need have almost 0 input lag. I have my tricks to minimize the input lag and don't want to go into to much detail but I set my fps to 1 lower than vsync.

In some newer titles I can't reach 110hz so that makes my games stutter a lot. Color reproduction and viewing angles is not super important I just don't want something that has way less impressive colors and viewing angel that It will drive me mad. I guess with a view tweaks I can get better colors and a better experience on the Dell.

So what do you guys think? does the tn on the Dell really that much worse that the PLS on the qnix?


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> this is because you are using tightened timings. It will force the card into 3d clocks which does it not play nice with chrome when hardware acceleration is used. Use 96hz profile with lcd standard timings and enjoy.


+rep thanks mate. I did 100hz instead 96, and everything is solid.


----------



## Chomsky

Ordered QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II 27" QHD Samsung PLS Matte Panel PC Monitor and received yesterday.

Think it might be a defect but there are two faint black lines on the top middle and bottom middle of left side of the screen. Tested in games and it is noticeable. Is this a known thing? Also is this something that can be fixed or should I return.
Thanks ahead of time for any feedback. Picture included.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomsky*
> 
> Ordered QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II 27" QHD Samsung PLS Matte Panel PC Monitor and received yesterday.
> 
> Think it might be a defect but there are two faint black lines on the top middle and bottom middle of left side of the screen. Tested in games and it is noticeable. Is this a known thing? Also is this something that can be fixed or should I return.
> Thanks ahead of time for any feedback. Picture included.


never seen anything like that before, hopefully you bought from a seller who has cali listed as point of origin so return should be cheap.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomsky*
> 
> Ordered QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II 27" QHD Samsung PLS Matte Panel PC Monitor and received yesterday.
> 
> Think it might be a defect but there are two faint black lines on the top middle and bottom middle of left side of the screen. Tested in games and it is noticeable. Is this a known thing? Also is this something that can be fixed or should I return.
> Thanks ahead of time for any feedback. Picture included.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Could be screen burn in, what was on your screen previously? did it sit at the same page or desktop for a while?


----------



## Chomsky

Ordered QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II 27" QHD Samsung PLS Matte Panel PC Monitor and received yesterday.

Think it might be a defect but there are two faint black lines on the left side. Tested in games and it is noticible. Is this a known thing? Also is this something that can be fixed or should I return.
Thanks ahead of time for any feedback. Picture included.
Edit: Seems that even though the overclock was successful at 120hz, when I switch back to 60hz the black lines go away. Does this mean it is not overclockable?

Could be screen burn in, what was on your screen previously? did it sit at the same page or desktop for a while?

Thank you for your responses.







After messing around today I realized that when I turned off my overclock, and reverted back to 60hz the bars went away. Strangely it was an otherwise successful 120hz overclock which I verified a couple different ways. I might see if I can still overclock at a lower value without getting the black lines but I suppose worst case I just go without the overclock seeing as how I didn't seem to get any dead pixels with this panel.

In answer to second question, I was running minecraft previously when I noticed, but nothing more than 10 minutes. Purchased from newegg.com.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chomsky*
> 
> Ordered QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II 27" QHD Samsung PLS Matte Panel PC Monitor and received yesterday.
> 
> Think it might be a defect but there are two faint black lines on the left side. Tested in games and it is noticible. Is this a known thing? Also is this something that can be fixed or should I return.
> Thanks ahead of time for any feedback. Picture included.
> Edit: Seems that even though the overclock was successful at 120hz, when I switch back to 60hz the black lines go away. Does this mean it is not overclockable?
> 
> Could be screen burn in, what was on your screen previously? did it sit at the same page or desktop for a while?
> 
> Thank you for your responses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After messing around today I realized that when I turned off my overclock, and reverted back to 60hz the bars went away. Strangely it was an otherwise successful 120hz overclock which I verified a couple different ways. I might see if I can still overclock at a lower value without getting the black lines but I suppose worst case I just go without the overclock seeing as how I didn't seem to get any dead pixels with this panel.
> 
> In answer to second question, I was running minecraft previously when I noticed, but nothing more than 10 minutes. Purchased from newegg.com.


No dead pixels? Set the refresh at 96Hz and you should be fine.


----------



## mercnz

So my QX2710 I bought in 2013 randomly stopped working, at first I thought I had lost yet another power supply - as the screen seemed to be struggling to stay on, and the blue led kept flickering, as well as the whole screen, which also went a bit jumbled. I didn't really take too much notice of /what/ it was doing. But upon removing power, and trying another power supply it won't show anything on screen.

I've since tried multiple cables to multiple computers and multiple power supplies.

I can get the screen to be recognised once, even without power plugged into monitor. and i can sometimes get the backlight to show, and have the screen have the blue light stay on - but other times it will just flash blue. The power button works normally shifting it between "off" and "trying to be on".

The DVI socket seems a bit loose compared to what DVI on other devices seems like - most of my plugs are very tight on other things but I don't seem to be able to do anything different with it.

I should be getting a colorimeter tomorrow and I really wanted to compare monitors, as I just got another QX2710 that doesn't seem to look as good. At the moment I have it swapped out for a Shiman QH270-Lite which has wonderful lack of backlight bleed, but is glossy rather than matte, and doesn't look as nice.

But now I'm wondering if I can fix this monitor, and whether I should even consider getting another one if they can't even last 3 years. (it had also lost power supplies in that time)

I can't see much around in replacement PCB's which may fix it. And I had no response when I tried contacting the seller (green-sum) about replacement power supplies.

I know other people seem to be able to trigger test patterns on these monitors easily, but I haven't been able to. I did once manage to get a full red and then a full green showing, so I suspect that means that the panel is still working. (although I've only managed that once!) I also tried putting brightness down and up which seems to change what the backlight does show.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> +rep thanks mate. I did 100hz instead 96, and everything is solid.


Glad it worked out. Also another tip, it is best to set the refresh rate in multiples of 24hz(hence 96hz) because most media content is played at that rate and adding intermediate frames in between would fit perfectly. Not sure about Netflix but I think it is 24fps(doubtfully 30fps) so 96hz would play smoother than 100hz ideally in that case.


----------



## SNooZy

hey all, I just recently bought a QX2710 with a Samsung Panel and I'm more than happy with it. So much so that I ordered another one. Sadly, this time didn't pay attention to the panel and now I got an AUO M270DAN01.1. It's in the QNIX with multi input. Now, this isn't bad by default, since I'm not a gamer and am not keen on overclocking.
But, I have a problem in which this new panel has some weird quirks in displaying the full resolution. Now, windows tells me that its full UDH, but since I have the other one right next to it. It just does not look the same. The whole UI is bigger and it looks like 1080p. When I drag windows from one to the other, they get bigger/smaller depending on the direction.
Both monitors are connected via custom bought Dual DVI cables via my r9 280x from Asus with 2xDVI outputs. I've tried a variety of different connection constellations, for example I've tried both dvi outputs with both panels. The Samsung always displays everything normally. Thus I concluded that both outputs on my GPU have to be dual dvi. It's always the same. My Samsung Panel displays everything the correct way and the new one just defaults to 1080p. Even when I just connect the new one.
One thing that makes it additionally weird is that my wallpaper is displayed in the correct size on the AUO, just as the Samsung one. But the window and icon sizes are all as big as on 1080p. The colors are also off in the AUO.

Also, my GPU driver tells me that my AUO panel screen is connected via DVI rather than the Samsung Panel which is connected as DUAL DVI. Both of them should be displayed as DUAL. I'm so confused.

Edit: When I go to http://www.whatismyscreenresolution.com/ it tells me I have a 2048 x 1152 resolution O.O

What can I try to make it better? Am I having a defective model?


----------



## Robbyroberts91

Hello! is good the qnix qx2710 true 10 without dp? from Korea to italy what it might cost to Customs?


----------



## Atomagenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacoblab*
> 
> Just an update, the monitor is not overclocked at all. I ordered a new power cord + brick when you guys recommended it, and it just arrived today. I plugged it all in, and about 5 minutes after plugging it in, the screen went black once again. So I guess it has to be something wrong with the monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is my only option at this point to order a new monitor?


Looks like I spoke prematurely. The exact same thing just started happening to me. I ordered a new power brick, should be here on Monday. Going to test and find out.

It was really weird. My cell phone rang next to my monitor and at the exact same moment the screen went black and I couldn't get it to come back on except for half a second when I unplugged the 2.1mm connection on the back of the monitor and plugged it back in. So that tells me it is most likely a powerbrick issue. I ordered a good power brick that is UL certified, so hopefully that resolves the issue, I'd hate to have to order a new monitor.


----------



## Kiros

Is it just better to get a HDMI 2.0 to DVI-D cord? Instead of a Displayport to DVI-D adaptor?

I'm looking into the 980/Ti/Titan-X card but they are lacking a DVI-D outlet.


----------



## Jacoblab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> Looks like I spoke prematurely. The exact same thing just started happening to me. I ordered a new power brick, should be here on Monday. Going to test and find out.
> 
> It was really weird. My cell phone rang next to my monitor and at the exact same moment the screen went black and I couldn't get it to come back on except for half a second when I unplugged the 2.1mm connection on the back of the monitor and plugged it back in. So that tells me it is most likely a powerbrick issue. I ordered a good power brick that is UL certified, so hopefully that resolves the issue, I'd hate to have to order a new monitor.


Yeah it sounds like we have the same problem. Let me know what happens when you get your new power brick!


----------



## Atomagenesis

Turns out my 7990 just gave up the ghost. The monitor is working fine. But I'm still going to use that new powerbrick anyway I think, it's better than the one they sent anyway.


----------



## dmuench82

Hey guys, I posted my own thread about this, but haven't gotten any replies, and I am starting to get impatient, lol. So, I have the Qnix qx 2710 monitor with only a dvi output. This setup worked perfectly on my Asus Strix GTX 970. I recently upgraded and built a new system with a gtx 980 ti. I have it connected to my 4k tv at the moment, and everything is fine. However, every time I try to boot connected to the Qnix, it does not recognize a video ouptut. ONCE, I actually got the Qnix to turn on and get a display when connected to my 980 ti, however it went right to the Asus setup screen (for my mob) you know hit f2 to enter BiOS, and when I hit f2, it just went blank again, and the red light on the front started flashing. Every time I hook it up, aside from that one time, I just get the red flashing light. I dont understand why it would have worked with the 970, but not the 980 ti, it makes 0 sense. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmuench82*
> 
> Hey guys, I posted my own thread about this, but haven't gotten any replies, and I am starting to get impatient, lol. So, I have the Qnix qx 2710 monitor with only a dvi output. This setup worked perfectly on my Asus Strix GTX 970. I recently upgraded and built a new system with a gtx 980 ti. I have it connected to my 4k tv at the moment, and everything is fine. However, every time I try to boot connected to the Qnix, it does not recognize a video ouptut. ONCE, I actually got the Qnix to turn on and get a display when connected to my 980 ti, however it went right to the Asus setup screen (for my mob) you know hit f2 to enter BiOS, and when I hit f2, it just went blank again, and the red light on the front started flashing. Every time I hook it up, aside from that one time, I just get the red flashing light. I dont understand why it would have worked with the 970, but not the 980 ti, it makes 0 sense. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


Check this video by one of OCN's members. Hope it helps.


----------



## dmuench82

Thank you, that does help. I think that actually might be what is happening, now I just need to figure out what he actually did in the video to fix it, lol. He's all over the place in that video.


----------



## Atomagenesis

I had the same exact problem with Windows 10, I went back to 8.1

Everything is golden now.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmuench82*
> 
> Thank you, that does help. I think that actually might be what is happening, now I just need to figure out what he actually did in the video to fix it, lol. He's all over the place in that video.


PM him, he might be able to help you out.

http://www.overclock.net/u/310570/totally-dubbed


----------



## dmuench82

Update... Everything is good boys. Updated bios for mobo and graphics card. Had to go and clean out all my old drivers for nvidia and reinstall. Now the Qnix is up and running.


----------



## TelFiRE

Well, today my Qnix went black. I was across the room and heard a noise from SWTOR finishing downloading, and looked over and all was well. Moments later, all my monitors went to sleep. Weird coincidence I thought. When I went back to wake it, however, all 3 came on except my Qnix. It was black. The blue light was solid, so it saw the connection, but there was no backlight.

I tried it in a different port and then a different computer, same results. Sad times. Does this mean my Qnix has bitten the dust? Or is there anything I can do?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## joshkope

So I aplogize if this has been asked before, but the new Crimson drivers changed the look and feel of CCC. After setting the new refresh rate in CRU, do we now change the refresh rate in the windows options instead of in the CCC options? There are no more "desktop options in CCC.


----------



## MrCrispTech

I have a Surface Pro 3 with the new SP4 dock and two Qnix qx2710 led evolution II QHD Samsung PLS Matte Panel... Still waiting on Accell B087B-007B DisplayPort/Mini DisplayPort to DVI-D Dual-Link Adapter (powered) to see if I can get these to work. Man I hope so. I will let you know. Also to note, I do currently have a single 4k monitor running full res with with surface display on as well so it should be able to handle the resolution, especially if surface display is off.

But really I have no idea... I am about $800 into this experiment I hope it pays off.


----------



## Andr3az

About to order QNIX qx2710 ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797 ). Is the single input version still the best option to go with if I wanna overclock?

Any european orderers, how long did it take for the monitor to get to you?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andr3az*
> 
> About to order QNIX qx2710 ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797 ). Is the single input version still the best option to go with if I wanna overclock?
> 
> Any european orderers, how long did it take for the monitor to get to you?


Your link (single-input) is still the way to go and the price is unbeatable!... But the QNIX isn't what it use to be, you may find my post *HERE* of interest


----------



## Atomagenesis

Ok, I was thinking about getting the Fury X (7990 died), there is only one problem, no DVI-D output.

How can I get 1440p @ 120hz with that card?/ It looks like none of the adapters support that high of a throughput.

Does anyone know of hardware that can convert the display port or HDMI signal to DVI-D and still keep the monitor overclockable at 1440p? Seems like I ran into an issue here if I want to get the Fury X.


----------



## LukasCS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> Ok, I was thinking about getting the Fury X (7990 died), there is only one problem, no DVI-D output.
> 
> How can I get 1440p @ 120hz with that card?/ It looks like none of the adapters support that high of a throughput.
> 
> Does anyone know of hardware that can convert the display port or HDMI signal to DVI-D and still keep the monitor overclockable at 1440p? Seems like I ran into an issue here if I want to get the Fury X.


You can get a lot of the active adapters to work at 60Hz, but as far as overclocking I don't think its possible to go above 60Hz. I just had to take a 980 Ti over a Fury X because I want to keep my Korean Panel


----------



## MrCrispTech

I got mine in 2 days, ordered from one of newegg.com venders. And I did get the the single port, but I am still waiting on my adapters. Should come today.


----------



## mercnz

I'm still struggling to try and get a replacement PCB. Bought monitor from green-sum originally, who says that he doesn't have any parts, and suggested I e-mail QNIX - I did that, but got no response. So I tried asking accessorieswhole who I have bought multiple monitors from just not this one, and I'm hoping can help..

Has anyone else had better luck getting replacement PCBs or do people just buy a whole new monitor when it dies?

I'm not in the US, so never had any option of SquareTrade or the like.


----------



## Atomagenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LukasCS*
> 
> You can get a lot of the active adapters to work at 60Hz, but as far as overclocking I don't think its possible to go above 60Hz. I just had to take a 980 Ti over a Fury X because I want to keep my Korean Panel


Son of a....

ARGH!!!!!!!!


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercnz*
> 
> I'm still struggling to try and get a replacement PCB. Bought monitor from green-sum originally, who says that he doesn't have any parts, and suggested I e-mail QNIX - I did that, but got no response. So I tried asking accessorieswhole who I have bought multiple monitors from just not this one, and I'm hoping can help..
> 
> Has anyone else had better luck getting replacement PCBs or do people just buy a whole new monitor when it dies?
> 
> I'm not in the US, so never had any option of SquareTrade or the like.


I've read a few posts from people who got replacement PCB's and don't recall any who had luck with it. I may have missed some success stories though.


----------



## notahappycamper

HELP! My 7870 just died, and I switched to a gtx970, and now my monitor just cycles between colors on the screen when it is on.

I have an i5 4670k, gtx970, asrock z87 mobo, antec hcg-520m psu


----------



## Atomagenesis

Well... if you just plugged in a GTX 970 instead of uninstalling your old AMD drivers that could be a problem. Boot into safe mode with the GTX and run guru3d's driver unintsaller utility.

If you already did that, power cycle the monitor a few times by unplugging the actual powersupply to the monitor from the outlet you have it plugged in to. If that doesn't work, let the monitor sit for 30 mins while the PSU cools off.


----------



## notahappycamper

I've reinstalled windows, updated drivers, tried installing monitor drivers, tried different ports, adapters, and nothing has worked so far.


----------



## LARGE FARVA

since i got my 2710 about 3 years ago i was initially able to hit 120 with no artifacting with a gtx 670 since then ive upgraded my gpu twice, and every time ive done that i have to lower my overclock to avoid artifacts...
i went from a 670 to a 970 and had to lower to 115hz now im using a 980ti and had to lower it again to 110hz and im still gettins the green lines.... whats the deal here?

*edit* ive even tried the "reduced" timings and it doesnt help
im using the toastyx patch and cru for this aswell.

heres a pic of my timings as of now, im not to good with this part of it http://i.imgur.com/IsGZrOK.png


----------



## doco

so something went wrong with my qnix 2710 and i could smell smoke. this happened a week ago. i presumed something went wrong when my UPS did a test run and burnt something on the PCB. i took it apart and it seems the 18N20GH went bad. is it possible to solder a new one on? TBH i have no idea on what to do from here on out.

i found this on ebay which looks like i can replace the bad 18N20GH with. anyone know their stuff about this and can confirm?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-AP18N20GH-N-channel-200V-Vgs-20V-TO-252-/262081434223?hash=item3d0545526f:g:ZDoAAOSwuWVWFAvv

and here is two pictures i took to see how bad the damage was. everything else looks fine.


----------



## CarsonKT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> so something went wrong with my qnix 2710 and i could smell smoke. this happened a week ago. i presumed something went wrong when my UPS did a test run and burnt something on the PCB. i took it apart and it seems the 18N20GH went bad. is it possible to solder a new one on? TBH i have no idea on what to do from here on out.
> 
> i found this on ebay which looks like i can replace the bad 18N20GH with. anyone know their stuff about this and can confirm?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-AP18N20GH-N-channel-200V-Vgs-20V-TO-252-/262081434223?hash=item3d0545526f:g:ZDoAAOSwuWVWFAvv
> 
> and here is two pictures i took to see how bad the damage was. everything else looks fine.


If I were you, just buy a good 18N20GH and replace it, see what will happen.
OR you can just replace the whole PCB

Wait for more pros to come with some decent ideas


----------



## CarsonKT

I am thinking to grab another qnix to pair with my current one.
How is there current quality? I say the price seems dropped a lot, quality drops together?

another concern is, I am current using an 7950, the DVI-D port is already taken
so this means I have to buy the second one with DP/HDMI port , or the DVI-I will work?

I've seen one with HDMI port, will this support 1440p resolution @ 60Hz, (won't try OC)
another one with both HDMI 1.4 and DP 1.2 will this one support 1440p resolution @ 60Hz?
price is only $10 difference.

advice appreciated.


----------



## nine7six

Newegg has the Qnix /Samsung panel for $219 shipped. Ordered one to try out.


----------



## notahappycamper

What causes one of these monitors to cycle through full screen colors? Is it an input that's out of its range, or something else? What can I do to fix it?


----------



## mtojay

hey guys,
does anyone have experience with the "accessorieswhole" shop on ebay with shipping to germany? i ordered a qnix from them on sunday with express delivery. but they still have not updated the ebay status to shipped?! is that common. i have an expected delivery of thursday (tomorrow) to tuesday. but i think a delivery this week is actually already out of questions since they didnt even start shipping it yet.

i know i am impatient  but it bugs me that i dont even have a trackign number or anything like that.









maybe anybody has experience with that and knows if its common that they dont update the ebay status or something like that.
thx in advance
greetings from germany
mtojay


----------



## Jesse36m3

I already have one of the oldschool panels that overclocks to 120hz no problem .. question is: Can I grab two more of these and run NVidia surround in SLI? I also have two 970's. Is this possible with three DVI ports? Been getting more into sim racing and want to make a nice setup. Any help is appreciated, thanks.


----------



## Andr3az

Finally got mine from Accessorieswhole and this thing is amazing.
No dead pixels but has some backlight bleed in the bottom corners.

Already overclocked to 120hz and tested with phone camera and frame skip test. Looks like its not skipping or the phone is not fast enough picture taker.

But when at 120hz it feels so smooth









EDIT: It does have some weird burn in issue. Some websites have burned into my monitor lol

EDIT2: the 120hz that was running fine on first day started artifacting on the second day. Feels bad man


----------



## HappyHimitsu

Just a warning to those of you thinking to overclock these monitors.

The n-mosfet referenced in doco's post above is not rated for what goes through these things when overclocking and the chances of it going are very high.

The same thing happened to mine some months back (I purchased late 2014 iirc) and I have spent the last couple of weeks scouring the web for as much info on them as I can get.

Unfortunately, when I tried to replace the FET I wound up frying the replacement. Thankfully I have a spare to try with (both rated slightly higher than the original), but I will need to do a little maintenance on the PCB as well in order to make sure the drain tab dissipates heat properly.

Once I get it working again, I don't plan on overclocking it anywhere past 75hz!


----------



## xmattblackx

Hey guys! First time poster on the basis of having QNIX issues. Got 2710 , overclocked to 120hz no problemo....after a while my monitor wouldnt turn on all the time when booting my pc. All I had to do was shut it down a couple of times and it would finally catch and boot up with thee pc. Now im getting issues where there is flashing spots on the monitor that flash like old frames. For instance the straw that broke the camel's back just now was in the upper right hand corner of my monitor, and it looked like a part of the google chromse browser stuck there with flashing over it. I turned off the monitor, unplugged it for a couple of minutes and turned it back on, which fixed MOST of the issue.... very small parts of it still flash right now and its fading quickly.....I'm on the edge of returning this thing to get a new one...anyone have any ideas? Also, the box part thats attached to the wire where it plugs into the outlet. The box itself is SUPER HOT, like wow never felt one of these so hot before.....Normal? I love my qnix monitor, someone please help!

qnix 2710 1440
980Ti
windows 10 pro n
samsung ssd 500gb
corsair 750w
intel i7 4790
asus z97i plus mobo
1 tb HDD

EDIT:Now sometimes when it boots up, it holds the high pitched wine (like when it boots up the monitor), even after its booted up...it holds the constant high pitched noise until I switch the modes over to game mode and then back to normal mode turns off the noise.


----------



## nine7six

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xmattblackx*
> 
> Hey guys! First time poster on the basis of having QNIX issues. Got 2710 , overclocked to 120hz no problemo....after a while my monitor wouldnt turn on all the time when booting my pc. All I had to do was shut it down a couple of times and it would finally catch and boot up with thee pc. Now im getting issues where there is flashing spots on the monitor that flash like old frames. For instance the straw that broke the camel's back just now was in the upper right hand corner of my monitor, and it looked like a part of the google chromse browser stuck there with flashing over it. I turned off the monitor, unplugged it for a couple of minutes and turned it back on, which fixed MOST of the issue.... very small parts of it still flash right now and its fading quickly.....I'm on the edge of returning this thing to get a new one...anyone have any ideas? Also, the box part thats attached to the wire where it plugs into the outlet. The box itself is SUPER HOT, like wow never felt one of these so hot before.....Normal? I love my qnix monitor, someone please help!
> 
> qnix 2710 1440
> 980Ti
> windows 10 pro n
> samsung ssd 500gb
> corsair 750w
> intel i7 4790
> asus z97i plus mobo
> 1 tb HDD
> 
> EDIT:Now sometimes when it boots up, it holds the high pitched wine (like when it boots up the monitor), even after its booted up...it holds the constant high pitched noise until I switch the modes over to game mode and then back to normal mode turns off the noise.


I wonder if your issue is due to over clocking the monitor. Mine shows out for delivery.. I cannot imagine they make much money off these when they ship what seems like next day from Korea to US..


----------



## xmattblackx

these things work great while overclocked, I think thats what makes this product so popular.


----------



## smok333

Hello guys, please help me.

I got a qnix 2710 @ 110hz since 2-3 years ago with no problems, today my second qnix 2710 arrived ( evolution II multiport).
My video card is Gtx 970, i don't want to overclock the second monitor ( i'll use it for work only).
OS win 8.1 64bit
I also have my 50" Tv hooked up to the GPU via HDMI, the qnix monitors are hooked up via dual-dvi cables.

Now the problem.

When i move a window from my 1st qnix monitor to the new one ... the window gets resized to 1080p ... If i move the window 75% on fisrt display and 25% on the second one it stays the same size .. once i move the window more than 50% on the second screen the image gets resized @ 1080p.. and text gets blurry. If i move a movie (VLC) between the monitors i don't have the resize problem.. si i guess it'a a windows problem .
Did anyone got this problem before?, how can i fix it?

Thanks

I fix it, here is the solution .. desktop -> right click -> screen resolution -> choose the monitor -> press make text and other items lager or smaller -> and check Let me choose one scaling level for all my displays.


----------



## mtojay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtojay*
> 
> hey guys,
> does anyone have experience with the "accessorieswhole" shop on ebay with shipping to germany? i ordered a qnix from them on sunday with express delivery. but they still have not updated the ebay status to shipped?! is that common. i have an expected delivery of thursday (tomorrow) to tuesday. but i think a delivery this week is actually already out of questions since they didnt even start shipping it yet.
> 
> i know i am impatient  but it bugs me that i dont even have a trackign number or anything like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe anybody has experience with that and knows if its common that they dont update the ebay status or something like that.
> thx in advance
> greetings from germany
> mtojay


i now have a shipping notice. turns out there was the asian new year holidays. i just ordered at the worst possible time. they have this national holiday for about a week. but everybody deserves his holiday so i cant be mad at them 

its supposed to come next week now so thats not to bad anyway. after all its coming from korea.

greetings
julius


----------



## CrazyCarl5055

Good afternoon,

First time poster, but I've read quite a bit of material. I noticed that a while back, some people posted that the matte version of the QX2710 was still using the older panel. Is this still true? And does this mean that the matter version will not suffer from the PWM issues that I have read about?

I have also read that the CrossOver 2795QHD does not have PWM issues and can also overclock to at least 96hz, but this is $300 instead of the $220 or so that the QX2710 is currently priced at. Any thoughts on this decision or other possibly better options that I have not yet encountered?

Thanks,

Carl


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyHimitsu*
> 
> Just a warning to those of you thinking to overclock these monitors.
> 
> The n-mosfet referenced in doco's post above is not rated for what goes through these things when overclocking and the chances of it going are very high.
> 
> The same thing happened to mine some months back (I purchased late 2014 iirc) and I have spent the last couple of weeks scouring the web for as much info on them as I can get.
> 
> Unfortunately, when I tried to replace the FET I wound up frying the replacement. Thankfully I have a spare to try with (both rated slightly higher than the original), but I will need to do a little maintenance on the PCB as well in order to make sure the drain tab dissipates heat properly.
> 
> Once I get it working again, I don't plan on overclocking it anywhere past 75hz!


that's some good info.

as for my problem, i have a replacement pcb from IPSLEDmonitors coming and a 18N20GH from ebay shipping on 2/17. IPSLEDmonitor hasn't shipped out the pcb yet though and it's been 2 business days. their phone number also redirects to some security line. they haven't responded to my e-mail either. i already opened a paypal dispute and sent a message today through paypal on what is going on. either they're slow or its operation is inactive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCarl5055*
> 
> Good afternoon,
> 
> First time poster, but I've read quite a bit of material. I noticed that a while back, some people posted that the matte version of the QX2710 was still using the older panel. Is this still true? And does this mean that the matter version will not suffer from the PWM issues that I have read about?
> 
> I have also read that the CrossOver 2795QHD does not have PWM issues and can also overclock to at least 96hz, but this is $300 instead of the $220 or so that the QX2710 is currently priced at. Any thoughts on this decision or other possibly better options that I have not yet encountered?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carl


you're taking a huge chance on getting an 07 panel and PWM regardless of glossy or matte. if you don't mind matte, go for the crossover 2795.


----------



## blackhole2013

My qx2710 is driving me crazy i only had it for 2 months and theres a dark area near the bottom right i have to smack the monitor a few times for the led to flicker on ...Im so mad I knew at the price i paid this monitor must be junk ...


----------



## Andr3az

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> My qx2710 is driving me crazy i only had it for 2 months and theres a dark area near the bottom right i have to smack the monitor a few times for the led to flicker on ...Im so mad I knew at the price i paid this monitor must be junk ...


Sounds like a loose connection. Open it up and check if all wires are connected correctly.

Looks like this monitor is meant for tinkerers with all the problems that require you to open the monitor and hack it lol. But so far im pretty happy with mine and thinking about getting 4k monitor from korea. If only they had 4k IPS/PLS monitor that OC-s to 120-144hz


----------



## bondy007700

I have had m y qx2710 for about 3 years now and i have previously had it overclocked to 100hz.
but since i updated to windows 10 and the newest version of amd catalyst 16.1.1 i cant get the overclock to work.
I have use cru and entered a few different overclocks and i have also patched it with toastys down load.

the refresh rates are showing up in my windows settings and i can select them. but when it comes to tesing them on testufo it comes up as 60hz

im stuck with what else i can do ~


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bondy007700*
> 
> I have had m y qx2710 for about 3 years now and i have previously had it overclocked to 100hz.
> but since i updated to windows 10 and the newest version of amd catalyst 16.1.1 i cant get the overclock to work.
> I have use cru and entered a few different overclocks and i have also patched it with toastys down load.
> 
> the refresh rates are showing up in my windows settings and i can select them. but when it comes to tesing them on testufo it comes up as 60hz
> 
> im stuck with what else i can do ~


What browser are you using? Chrome only shows up to 60Hz iirc, try IE.


----------



## bondy007700

just tried it on internet explorer and thats showing 55hz :|


----------



## renji1337

is the qnix qx2710 White LED or CCFL?

can't decide what settings to use for dispcalgui


----------



## Forceman

It is LED.


----------



## nine7six

I got a chance to set mine up. Zero stuck pixels, was able to oc to 120hz and play crisys 3, bf3 and borderlands 2 for a few hours.. No issues or artifacts, very impressed with the picture quality over 1080x1200 I was using (Dell U2412M) I have some backlight bleed on the bottom to the left of the logo and to the right. Very happy for the price, mine was ordered from Newegg.


----------



## redlight5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiller1064*
> 
> Well, the response from Green Sum was very disappointing regarding my display issue/defective monitor.
> 
> They are apparently claiming that the issue is a result of incompatibility with the video card- even though the video card clearly exceeds their stated requirements:
> 
> From the eBay item description:
> 
> Recommended graphic cards
> >NVIDIA: GTX460 or more than 1GB memory, with Dual Linked DVI-D port.
> >ATI: HD6850 or more than 1GB memory, with Dual Linked DVI-D port.
> 
> I have a Nvidia GTX970 that clearly has the correct port, 4 GB of memory and can support the native resolution. I know people here have been using this same card in combination with the Qnix just fine. I even swapped to a AMD R9 270X card and tried multiple DVI-D cables (one of which was off a working display running the AMD card to a 24" LED monitor) to see if the issue would clear. It did not.
> 
> The issue clears if I tap or jiggle the monitor multiple times- but reappears if the monitor is jiggled in any way or the stand is adjusted. I may be wrong- but that is not a video card compatibility issue, a defective cable issue or using the wrong port issue. That behavior appears to be a internal defect within the display itself (faulty or loose connector or bad board). This issue first appeared when I set the display up, powered it up and when it appeared to be working removed the shipping protector film off the bezel. Soon as the monitor moved during that process, the image went bad. Tapping the right side of the monitor reset it to working condition again- but soon as the monitor was jiggled, the issue reoccurred.
> 
> I explained the issue again, stated my card exceeded/met the requirements stated on the eBay product listing and occurred when the display is disturbed. I requested a new display as a replacement and a return on the defective monitor under warranty with shipping to South Korea covered.
> 
> Not a good or positive first step in the process. Picture of the issue attached. Open to any suggestions on how to proceed and get a replacement or refund.


Hey folks, wanted to give something back to this great thread that got me into ordering a QX2710. I had similar issue as chiller1064 appearing after around 3 months after I got the monitor. It is the single DVI-D Samsung PLS panel with glossy finish.

I decided to open the monitor up and gently tried to push the wires going to the panel (the really thin ones, the connectors are covered in tape). I also changed the alignment of the wires when I laid the panel back to position and voila, no more issues in the image. My issue was that on the left side of the screen, every second vertical pixel row didn't produce red color. Sometimes it flickered a little bit looking like issue would go away so I figured it must be a connection/grounding/interference issue with the wires. Only downside is my BLB went bit worse but I can live with that, don't feel like opening it up again for a while now that it works


----------



## mtojay

so. my qnix arrived.

has anyone occured problems like the half screen being dark. like it wouldnt get the same light as the bottom half?

i have to test this properly at home. i just received it at work and the only option i had was to connect it to a mac with a ati 5770 (i used the cable that came with it). i get a picture but the upper half is way way darker then the bottom half. i hope this isnt a problem with the panel and more with the gpu (although i think the gpu should be able to handle it)

anybody heard of problems like this?

thx
mtojay


----------



## blackhole2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtojay*
> 
> so. my qnix arrived.
> 
> has anyone occured problems like the half screen being dark. like it wouldnt get the same light as the bottom half?
> 
> i have to test this properly at home. i just received it at work and the only option i had was to connect it to a mac with a ati 5770 (i used the cable that came with it). i get a picture but the upper half is way way darker then the bottom half. i hope this isnt a problem with the panel and more with the gpu (although i think the gpu should be able to handle it)
> 
> anybody heard of problems like this?
> 
> thx
> mtojay


Mine gets dark on the bottom left corner i literally have to hit it to turn the leds on its just not a quality monitor ...


----------



## mtojay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> Mine gets dark on the bottom left corner i literally have to hit it to turn the leds on its just not a quality monitor ...


ugh, that doesnt sound to promising. it feels like a defect. even though i have to try it at home first. i actually already know that its a defect. at first i connected it to a pc at work which couldnt give me a signal and only got me the red green blue flashing picture that some others have reported. but even there only half the screen was illuminated. after trying it at a different pc with a proper gpu and getting a picture its still the same. i will post pictures tonight. man thats a major bummer. even though its a cheap product i still think quality control should be good enough to seed out monitors that are only half illuminated.

:-( i hope i can get a refund, for this monitor and the taxes i had to pay.


----------



## mtojay

uuuugh.
ok its official. they shipped a broken monitor. damn it. worst thing is now i have a fight with my girfriend because she told me not to order "trash" (how she says) from korea.....

i am so bummed.

i am obviously not going to open this thing nomatter what. i really hope such a big ebay seller is at least able to sort this out shortly. i really really hope i get my money for taxes and stuff back.
lesson learned i guess. i never ordered technical stuff and gadgets from korea and i guess i will never do again. i havent heard about getting shipped with broken backlight before so i didnt think their quality control would be that awful ... but here we are.

anybody any idea what else i could do? i mean i already gave it a slight bump but i am surely not going to punch it or anything in the hope of getting some loosen contacts back together.
it never flickered or anything so i guess there is simply something broken.


----------



## dante`afk

When using Netflix or Amazon Prime video (apparently if Silverlight is being used), both of my Qnix screens turn into a gray static noise picture. The computer still works but both screens just turn to that. I have to Alt F4 the browser to see something again.

I can solve that if I set the screens back to 60hz instead of 120hz. Is there any other solution to that? (Flash, Java, Silverlight etc are all up to date). Issue occurs with Edge, IE and Chrome.


----------



## mtojay

Possible that this is something else that i can fix on my own?


----------



## renji1337

I've discovered something weird. If i use my one dvi-d cable my monitor is measuring with a white point of 7000-7300k...if i use my thick monoprice one, it measures at 6550k?!?!

this is while at 96hz.

Also remember that these monitors have no gurantee of OC.


----------



## joshkope

Do I still need to download the qnix drivers with a 980 ti?


----------



## joshkope

Also, color sustainer won't show my overclock. I overclocked to 96hz and color sustainer only shows 59 and 60hz. Does anyone know how to solve this problem?


----------



## lyricyst2000

Hi all, just got my QNIX 2710 evo ii...and well, the left side of the monitor looks like this...



Im not sure how well you can see, but there is about 1/8 of the screen on the left that is discolored and slightly fuzzy.
The monitor is in its factory 60hz state and didnt appear to have been damaged in shipping. It doesn't show up in screenshots or video recording, but is very distracting when watching video...

Any ideas on a fix? Or should I just file for a refund with the seller ASAP?


----------



## QuickFix

I've been running three Qnix2710 monitors in surround for about 2 years and I'm totally happy with them. Updated the rest of my rig about 2 months ago after my old one crapped out. I'm able to use max settings in all the games I've tired on my steam account @7680x1440 including recent ones like Rise of the Tomb Raider and Fallout 4. Here's my specs:

I7 6700k oc to 4.6
Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming G1 (rev. 1.0)
GTX 980 Ti Gigabyte G1 Gaming 6GB Edition SLI (x2).
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200
Qnix 2710 Monitors (x3)

I was an EVGA fan, but went with the Gigabyte cards because they're the only vendor in the 980ti series still with two dual link DVI ports on each card. They're fast and run cooler than competitors cards on air. Thank you Gigabyte!!

I tried overclocking the I7 6700K on air, but temps got a bit high in gaming so I wound up getting a Corsair Hydro Series™ H110i GTX 280mm Extreme unit. Now everything is great.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Hey guys; does anyone have an ICC profile for the L07 panel (Evo II with PWM dimming)? I've noticed a slightly annoying yellow deviation when watching video that pushes colors towards yellowz especially with stage lighting or film that has a more sepia tone. Thanks.


----------



## joshkope

WHen I install the qnix driver, it says 'the third party driver does not include digital signature information" and it doens't install. Is this why my color sustainer is not detecting my overclock?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> WHen I install the qnix driver, it says 'the third party driver does not include digital signature information" and it doens't install. Is this why my color sustainer is not detecting my overclock?


Probably, you will need to "disable driver signature enforcement" to get the QNIX driver to install.


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Probably, you will need to "disable driver signature enforcement" to get the QNIX driver to install.


How do i do that?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> How do i do that?


What version of Windows are you on? It is a fairly simple process. I could not get my QNIX to pass the UFO test w/o frame skipping until I got the driver installed.

https://www.google.com/#q=disable+driver+signature+enforcement


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> What version of Windows are you on? It is a fairly simple process. I could not get my QNIX to pass the UFO test w/o frame skipping until I got the driver installed.
> 
> https://www.google.com/#q=disable+driver+signature+enforcement


10


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> 10


Try this, it should get you fixed up.

If you prefer a video guide....


----------



## joshkope

Ok, I've now installed the QNIX drivers but Color Sustainer still isn't showing my 96hz overclock. Ugh.


----------



## doco

did qnix change the overclocking capabilities of the multi input qnix 2710 recently? this guy on hardforum is insisting his multi 2710 is not frame skipping and provides pictures.

http://hardforum.com/threads/qnix-qx2710-27-1440p-monitor-200.1891104/#post-1042146066


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> did qnix change the overclocking capabilities of the multi input qnix 2710 recently? this guy on hardforum is insisting his multi 2710 is not frame skipping and provides pictures.
> 
> http://hardforum.com/threads/qnix-qx2710-27-1440p-monitor-200.1891104/#post-1042146066


I saw these pop-up a couple weeks ago ... It's only one sample so far but it's hard to argue with the pictures for proof









Looks to be an updated panel from the original True10's called the "Hot" or gamer models ... AUO M270DAN01.0 Anti-Glare 3H ... it's also claiming a 4ms GtoG but conflicting "brightness" specs ... *HERE* and *HERE* ...

Brand: QNIX
Model: QX2710LED EVOLUTION2 MULTI HOT
Display Panel: LED. A-HVA, Anti-Glare (Matte)
Screen size: 27type, 27-inch 16:9 wide (596.7mmx335.6mm)
Recommended Resolution: 2560 ×1440 (QHD)
Pixel Pitch: 0.233mm x 0.233mm
Displacement Color: 1.06 Billon Colors (10bit)
Brightness: 350cd/㎡
Response time: 4ms (G to G)
Contrast Raito: 1000:1
Dynamic Contrast Ratio (DCR): 2,000,000:1
View Angle: 178(H),178(V) Wide Viewing Angle
Horizontal Frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
Input Port: DVI-D dual Link, HDMI, Audio IN, D/C
Speakers: 5W x 5W
Stand: Tilt VESA: 100mm x 100mm Power consumption: 40W (General)
Standby Power: 0.5W
Size (with Stand): 646mm(W) x 463mm(H) x 170mm(D)
Power supply: 100~240V/ 12V 5A

*NOW the big question is if it uses PWM Diming or not???* ... and it doesn't seem to come in a glossy version


----------



## bbarnette

Bought a QNIX2710 matte input in 2014.... one of my kids friends smashed it less then a year later. Looking to buy again. I used green-sum on ebay to purchase in 2014 but he doesn't seem to sell many these days. Have a few questions in hopes of saving time instead of reading the 2400 pages plus









1) who have people recently bought from? (I see accessories-world wide selling a ton)

2) have multi input buyers been able to verify they are no frame skipping to avoid motion blur?


----------



## Komets

Quick question. I have this monitor and I was able to overclock it to 120hz stable when I was using my 780, but now I have a 980ti and I can't overclock it to a stable 120hz unlike my 780. The max I get is 110hz without getting lines. Does it have to do some with DVI-D vs DVI-I port because on my 780 it had both and the 980ti has a DVI-I? If not what would be the cause because I have no clue. Thanks


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbarnette*
> 
> Bought a QNIX2710 matte input in 2014.... one of my kids friends smashed it less then a year later. Looking to buy again. I used green-sum on ebay to purchase in 2014 but he doesn't seem to sell many these days. Have a few questions in hopes of saving time instead of reading the 2400 pages plus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) who have people recently bought from? (I see accessories-world wide selling a ton)
> 
> 2) have multi input buyers been able to verify they are no frame skipping to avoid motion blur?


Shame your older QX2710 got dinged especially if it was the older L02 without PWM dimming. Check my post *HERE* for the True10 multi's (85Hz max) the new muti's (above post) that was the 1st feedback I've seen









If you prefer a "matte" panel and have PWM concerns I'd go with the Crossover 2795 *HERE* ... you may find my post *HERE* interesting also ... hope that Helps









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Komets*
> 
> Quick question. I have this monitor and I was able to overclock it to 120hz stable when I was using my 780, but now I have a 980ti and I can't overclock it to a stable 120hz unlike my 780. The max I get is 110hz without getting lines. Does it have to do some with DVI-D vs DVI-I port because on my 780 it had both and the 980ti has a DVI-I? If not what would be the cause because I have no clue. Thanks


I've seen this happening all the time without any good explanation ... When I upgraded to my 980Ti from 2x680's (Kepler), my Overlord (Cat2B) now only clocks to 112Hz vs 120hz ... my QNIX is my secondary monitor and it still clocks @120Hz But it had +10Hz headroom (haven't checked max) ... Also "WoW" what a great match the 980Ti is with the 1440p OC'd Korean panels


----------



## LukasCS

Hey, does anyone know how to use the overclocked refresh rate at 1080p on a QNIX? I've tried making a custom resolution at 1080p and it still doesn't pop up in my games at anymore than 60Hz. Everythings fine at 1440p with the OC'd refresh rate.


----------



## bbarnette

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Shame your older QX2710 got dinged especially if it was the older L02 without PWM dimming. Check my post *HERE* for the True10 multi's (85Hz max) the new muti's (above post) that was the 1st feedback I've seen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you prefer a "matte" panel and have PWM concerns I'd go with the Crossover 2795 *HERE* ... you may find my post *HERE* interesting also ... hope that Helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen this happening all the time without any good explanation ... When I upgraded to my 980Ti from 2x680's (Kepler), my Overlord (Cat2B) now only clocks to 112Hz vs 120hz ... my QNIX is my secondary monitor and it still clocks @120Hz But it had +10Hz headroom (haven't checked max) ... Also "WoW" what a great match the 980Ti is with the 1440p OC'd Korean panels


Thank you Tomcat! Just saved me a huge disappointment. Explains why all the old ebay sellers are selling the Crossover currently.

I still kept the Qnix for parts. Internals are all good. Maybe I can hock them









Trying to convince my wife to let me buy two (Crossovers now)... not sure my 780ti could power them both..... Not for gaming when both are in use, but for photo editing.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I saw these pop-up a couple weeks ago ... It's only one sample so far but it's hard to argue with the pictures for proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks to be an updated panel from the original True10's called the "Hot" or gamer models ... AUO M270DAN01.0 Anti-Glare 3H ... it's also claiming a 4ms GtoG but conflicting "brightness" specs ... *HERE* and *HERE* ...
> 
> Brand: QNIX
> Model: QX2710LED EVOLUTION2 MULTI HOT
> Display Panel: LED. A-HVA, Anti-Glare (Matte)
> Screen size: 27type, 27-inch 16:9 wide (596.7mmx335.6mm)
> Recommended Resolution: 2560 ×1440 (QHD)
> Pixel Pitch: 0.233mm x 0.233mm
> Displacement Color: 1.06 Billon Colors (10bit)
> Brightness: 350cd/㎡
> Response time: 4ms (G to G)
> Contrast Raito: 1000:1
> Dynamic Contrast Ratio (DCR): 2,000,000:1
> View Angle: 178(H),178(V) Wide Viewing Angle
> Horizontal Frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
> Input Port: DVI-D dual Link, HDMI, Audio IN, D/C
> Speakers: 5W x 5W
> Stand: Tilt VESA: 100mm x 100mm Power consumption: 40W (General)
> Standby Power: 0.5W
> Size (with Stand): 646mm(W) x 463mm(H) x 170mm(D)
> Power supply: 100~240V/ 12V 5A
> 
> *NOW the big question is if it uses PWM Diming or not???* ... and it doesn't seem to come in a glossy version


TomcatV can you purchase one, figure out its real specs and then let me know so that I can decide to purchase or not.









lol


----------



## MelonSplitter

When I turn my Qnix Off for about 2 minutes then turn it On, It goes very vibrant for a sec or 2 and then kinda goes a little darker and not as vibrant and stays at this setting. Is my monitor going bad? I seem to think so.


----------



## ron12

Hi,

I have a Qnix 2710 and would like to know is this backlight bleeding or ips glow.Thanks.

*

image.jpeg 1405k .jpeg file
*


----------



## Andr3az

That is a backlight bleed.


----------



## monistor

Hey guys I have purchased qnix 2710 pls Samsung panel 2 years ago but from days ago it fall from the desk and broken , so I think about new one and found the old one like I had before with 219$
http://m.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202348%2526meid%253D97e2d8d7f9164b3989f61cc356b51833%2526pid%253D100408%2526rk%253D1%2526rkt%253D9%2526mehot%253Dpp%2526sd%253D221203079356&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460
And new one ahva with 200$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor/121362611435?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35412%26meid%3Db436f4b2014d4a1c9015030ebad0f604%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D130933173797
So I search about them and see you say that ahva don't OC but in new editions the seller say its OC
So my question is
which screen is color more beautiful and which is more comfortable to eyes and more nature ?
And
I want to ask how I can secure the screen so don't fall again

I read that the new options in the ahva is just fake and it is not like the promo

And I want to take the risk to order the new one with ahva because it something new and I don't like to order some thing twice
So what do you think , should i take the risk or be with Samsung ?
And tell me the cons about it specially in colour or if anything else beside OC

Thank you guys


----------



## Vela4331

Hey monistor, check the Displayport version, dvi cable was only able to do 72hz stable, with a displayport cable 90hz stable. Got it this past week, no dead-pixels, backlight bleed. Proof: Not sure if camera was properly calibrated, take the pics as you will,


http://imgur.com/tRwpQ


----------



## CaptainUnicornP

So i'm having trouble with my over clock for my QX2710. I'm updating the monitor in device manager, i'm patching it with patcher 1.3.5, everything is found and patched, I change the refresh rate on NvCp to 96 hrz, but when I go to UFO frame test there is stuttering even though it says I have a valid refresh rate. Does anyone know why the overclock is not working for me?

Thanks

If it helps, I have an Intel 4670K and two GTX 970's.


----------



## ludwig

I'm sorry if this has been covered before but I was unable to find anything while searching the thread.

I bought this monitor recently (from green-sum) and tried to alleviate some of the back light bleed by removing the bezel and straightening the frame... only to find that there is no metal frame attached to the panel. The panel is bare edged except for a border of black tape.

The panel is barely being held in place by 2 (aftermarket looking) metal brackets... ***.

Has anyone encountered this?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludwig*
> 
> I'm sorry if this has been covered before but I was unable to find anything while searching the thread.
> 
> I bought this monitor recently (from green-sum) and tried to alleviate some of the back light bleed by removing the bezel and straightening the frame... only to find that there is no metal frame attached to the panel. The panel is bare edged except for a border of black tape.
> 
> The panel is barely being held in place by 2 (aftermarket looking) metal brackets... ***.
> 
> Has anyone encountered this?


Qnix has undergone changes in build quality over last year or more. They no longer produce the full framed display but use L shaped braces in the corners instead. This might exacerbate backlight bleed in some cases. Not only that, but most units nowadays come with PWM and usually a different lower grade panel (L07 vs L02 in original). Thats why you see the newer models selling dirt cheap at $220-250 vs their initial pricing of around $350-400.

See here for old vs new comparison.






Its been mentioned several times but understandable that many miss it due to the size of this thread. The OP has not updated his post to reflect this sadly.


----------



## joshkope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Qnix has undergone changes in build quality over last year or more. They no longer produce the full framed display but use L shaped braces in the corners instead. This might exacerbate backlight bleed in some cases. Not only that, but most units nowadays come with PWM and usually a different lower grade panel (L07 vs L02 in original). Thats why you see the newer models selling dirt cheap at $220-250 vs their initial pricing of around $350-400.
> 
> See here for old vs new comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its been mentioned several times but understandable that many miss it due to the size of this thread. The OP has not updated his post to reflect this sadly.


That's a real shame but it explains the drastic price decrease. Thanks for the information. I guess this monitor is no longer worth buying?


----------



## ludwig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Qnix has undergone changes in build quality over last year or more. They no longer produce the full framed display but use L shaped braces in the corners instead. This might exacerbate backlight bleed in some cases. Not only that, but most units nowadays come with PWM and usually a different lower grade panel (L07 vs L02 in original). Thats why you see the newer models selling dirt cheap at $220-250 vs their initial pricing of around $350-400.
> 
> See here for old vs new comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its been mentioned several times but understandable that many miss it due to the size of this thread. The OP has not updated his post to reflect this sadly.


Thank you for the response, really appreciate it.

Also, for anyone it may concern, the brackets in my monitor are different still from the ones in that video.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshkope*
> 
> That's a real shame but it explains the drastic price decrease. Thanks for the information. I guess this monitor is no longer worth buying?


I bought it for 199$, free shipping and no tax (ebay sale). In addition: I think it is still a good looking panel, it had minimal light bleed (even with the brackets), and easily OCed to 110hz. From what I've seen, the next step up from this monitor (w/ 1440p & +96hz) will be a refurb for 400$.
If you're not picky then I'd recommend it.


----------



## Andr3az

Anyone knows if the bracketed version backlight can be fixed with bending or something?


----------



## ludwig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andr3az*
> 
> Anyone knows if the bracketed version backlight can be fixed with bending or something?


I have a hunch that the majority of the light bleed was caused by the frame being bent and subsequently pushing on the panel.

My monitor (with brackets) has very little light bleed compared to others that posted on this thread. And when I removed the bare panel from the monitor, the one section of light bleed remained; so the brackets seem to have little effect on whether or not light bleed is present.

As far as bending the brackets: 1) there seems to be different types of mounting brackets in different panels, so theres no telling which you'll get. 2) As far as the one I received, I was able to bend them at an angle just in case the panel was resting on them in order to avoid unwanted pressure points.

Hope this helps.


----------



## EffOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I saw these pop-up a couple weeks ago ... It's only one sample so far but it's hard to argue with the pictures for proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks to be an updated panel from the original True10's called the "Hot" or gamer models ... AUO M270DAN01.0 Anti-Glare 3H ... it's also claiming a 4ms GtoG but conflicting "brightness" specs ... *HERE* and *HERE* ...
> 
> Brand: QNIX
> Model: QX2710LED EVOLUTION2 MULTI HOT
> Display Panel: LED. A-HVA, Anti-Glare (Matte)
> Screen size: 27type, 27-inch 16:9 wide (596.7mmx335.6mm)
> Recommended Resolution: 2560 ×1440 (QHD)
> Pixel Pitch: 0.233mm x 0.233mm
> Displacement Color: 1.06 Billon Colors (10bit)
> Brightness: 350cd/㎡
> Response time: 4ms (G to G)
> Contrast Raito: 1000:1
> Dynamic Contrast Ratio (DCR): 2,000,000:1
> View Angle: 178(H),178(V) Wide Viewing Angle
> Horizontal Frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
> Input Port: DVI-D dual Link, HDMI, Audio IN, D/C
> Speakers: 5W x 5W
> Stand: Tilt VESA: 100mm x 100mm Power consumption: 40W (General)
> Standby Power: 0.5W
> Size (with Stand): 646mm(W) x 463mm(H) x 170mm(D)
> Power supply: 100~240V/ 12V 5A
> 
> *NOW the big question is if it uses PWM Diming or not???* ... and it doesn't seem to come in a glossy version


Currently running this "Hot/Gaming" version, I am locked at 85hz using the supplied DVI cable. Using a single MSI GTX 970 with toastyx patch and CRU with Nvidia's latest driver.

Any advice to squeeze some extra Hz's to reach 96. Thanks in advance.


----------



## monistor

Hey guys I bought the new qnix q2710 with 200$ and its ahva panel after the old one with samsung pls panel but when I start them , I think like the old one has a more accurate and more nature colour so what should I do







[/URL]

And the white in the new one tend to yellow I don't know why


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EffOne*
> 
> Currently running this "Hot/Gaming" version, I am locked at 85hz using the supplied DVI cable. Using a single MSI GTX 970 with toastyx patch and CRU with Nvidia's latest driver.
> 
> Any advice to squeeze some extra Hz's to reach 96. Thanks in advance.


Maybe some of the principles (tighten timings) from the OC thread *HERE* might apply?
You shouldn't need the Toasty patch and CRU with a single 970, you could try a "clean" uninstall of those programs and OC through NVCP only to see if you get better results?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> Hey guys I bought the new qnix q2710 with 200$ and its ahva panel after the old one with samsung pls panel but when I start them , I think like the old one has a more accurate and more nature colour so what should I do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


A bit confusing what panels you actually have but it sounds like one is the multi-input and the other is a single input, therefore calibration will be your best bet to try to get them to match. No doubt the older L02 PLS panels are of higher quality. And a fair warming is others in the past haven't been able to get them to match perfectly ... so maybe sell the older? PLS and buy another AHVA to match? Or vice-versa but the older (2 years?) PLS panels don't seem to be the same as the newer ones, the "glossies" for sure aren't the same


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Maybe some of the principles (tighten timings) from the OC thread *HERE* might apply?
> You shouldn't need the Toasty patch and CRU with a single 970, you could try a "clean" uninstall of those programs and OC through NVCP only to see if you get better results?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bit confusing what panels you actually have but it sounds like one is the multi-input and the other is a single input, therefore calibration will be your best bet to try to get them to match. No doubt the older L02 PLS panels are of higher quality. And a fair warming is others in the past haven't been able to get them to match perfectly ... so maybe sell the older? PLS and buy another AHVA to match? Or vice-versa but the older (2 years?) PLS panels don't seem to be the same as the newer ones, the "glossies" for sure aren't the same


The older is the broken one in the left but it has a white like snow but the new one in (the right) the white tend to yellow
And I don't know how I can calibrate it


----------



## Andr3az

Buy or borrow a monitor calibrator device from someone.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

So I've had my single input matte qnix qx2710 for about 10 months and it's been pretty solid @96hz. I was a bit curious and am wondering how the TRUE10 Evolution II versions are now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/121362611435?hash=item1c41c67ceb:g:2UoAAOxyUylTPTVd

$200, flicker free, and also claims to not skip frames anymore?! Seems really good now, especially with all the newer cards phasing out their DVI ports.

Just curious as I haven't been following as closely as I should have. I'm probably holding off until I can get my hands on a GSync or Freesync 1440p ips display when they come down in price. The monitor market is moving quite quickly these days.


----------



## EffOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Maybe some of the principles (tighten timings) from the OC thread *HERE* might apply?
> You shouldn't need the Toasty patch and CRU with a single 970, you could try a "clean" uninstall of those programs and OC through NVCP only to see if you get better results?


Thanks TomcatV.. I tried adjusting the timings and was able to get to [email protected] 348Mhz. But, it seems this monitors threshold's pixel clock is at 349Mhz, anything above that gives frame drops. I'm not sure what the values for "Front Porch" and "Sync Width" effect the overall OC, as adjusting those values didn't change pixel clock or give a legitimate result? I'm not sure how to clean uninstall ToastyX's patch and CRU as those programs seems to run by themselves and didn't require a typical install? Maybe I missed something?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> So I've had my single input matte qnix qx2710 for about 10 months and it's been pretty solid @96hz. I was a bit curious and am wondering how the TRUE10 Evolution II versions are now.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/121362611435?hash=item1c41c67ceb:g:2UoAAOxyUylTPTVd
> 
> $200, flicker free, and also claims to not skip frames anymore?! Seems really good now, especially with all the newer cards phasing out their DVI ports.
> 
> Just curious as I haven't been following as closely as I should have. I'm probably holding off until I can get my hands on a GSync or Freesync 1440p ips display when they come down in price. The monitor market is moving quite quickly these days.


I have a different variant of that *monitor* and for an extra $50 you get a ("Line of Sight"??????) feature and a 3 mode preset button that adjusts brightness. It does flicker, but is negligible. It's barely visible on the two lowest brightness settings, it only OC's with DVI and not HDMI(Tested w/HDMI 2.0 cable). Additionally, I noticed a significant input lag compared to my other 2ms monitor. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## Lodewykk

QNIX qx2710 problems

I've been getting intermittent problems with my QNIX. Sometimes it darkens and gives weird colours & stuff, then after a few seconds the effect disappears again. Sometimes it lasts. Sometimes if I power my screen off and on again, it works again.

The onlly thing that seems to help is turning it off and on again, and only sometimes.
Things that do not seem to make a difference:

Tapping
Fiddling with cables
Changing the refresh rate. (This occurs from 60 to 120Hz and looks the same)

Power cycling.
Powering off and waiting.
Example image: https://i.imgur.com/7nbj0eH.jpg

Imgur album:


http://imgur.com/Lujnw


Relevant videos on YT: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLV_ubB__m2DJlKcLjWDK3dK7sp0tsNPOk

My screen OCs to 120Hz fine. It is roughly 2 years old now. These symptoms have been here for about half a year. They're infrequent, but are becomming more frequent.

Any help / ideas would be apreciated.

Has anyone seen this before?


----------



## shadoom

Might be silly to ask but...
Did anyone figure out which part of the PCB is responsible for the differing max. hz people get?
Would it be possible to replace that part or are too many parts responsible for it that it wouldn't be worth the work?


----------



## Zen00

Hey, does CRU work with the Catalyst 16.3 drivers yet? I can't find a way to change my monitors refresh rate in it. Do I have to downgrade to the older drivers to be able to overclock?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> Hey, does CRU work with the Catalyst 16.3 drivers yet? I can't find a way to change my monitors refresh rate in it. Do I have to downgrade to the older drivers to be able to overclock?


works on mine, same as before. Did you do the pixel patcher first?


----------



## Scorpion49

Hey guys, I just picked up one of these monitors today off of craigslist locally. I figured for the price it couldn't hurt to try it, its a QX2710 matte panel and seems to be pixel perfect, also OC's to 100hz easily (110hz also worked for a while but crashed the driver after a bit, needs some fiddling). I was wondering if there is any way to tell if its a PWM panel or not without cracking it open? PWM dimming bothers my eyes quite a bit.

Also, how do I install the .inf? Windows doesn't see it in the extracted folder so it just sticks with the generic driver.


----------



## Andr3az

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Hey guys, I just picked up one of these monitors today off of craigslist locally. I figured for the price it couldn't hurt to try it, its a QX2710 matte panel and seems to be pixel perfect, also OC's to 100hz easily (110hz also worked for a while but crashed the driver after a bit, needs some fiddling). I was wondering if there is any way to tell if its a PWM panel or not without cracking it open? PWM dimming bothers my eyes quite a bit.
> 
> Also, how do I install the .inf? Windows doesn't see it in the extracted folder so it just sticks with the generic driver.


If you have a camera, you can test it here; http://www.testufo.com/#test=blurtrail

Take pics of the moving line, if it captures multiple lines, then it has pwm dimming.

As for overclocking, mine did 110hz fine, 120hz with some artifacting. But when I changed the timings of the monitor, then I got to 120hz stable. Really amazing monitor. Search for the qx2710 timings thread here in monitor section.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> works on mine, same as before. Did you do the pixel patcher first?


Hello, with new Crimson the memory of You card downclock?
My card don't... http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/390#post_24982543


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Hello, with new Crimson the memory of You card downclock?
> My card don't... http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/390#post_24982543


Mine still does, same as before. I use LCD automatic timings in CRU, but I'm only pushing 96Hz.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Mine still does, same as before. I use LCD automatic timings in CRU, but I'm only pushing 96Hz.


Me too max 96 Hz.
Tryed all different settings, uninstall e re-install driver, pixel patch, CRU but nothing...


----------



## Scorpion49

I've given up on installing the driver, but one complaint I have is the monitor is almost unusable in dark games. The contrast is so poor I can't see anything at all. Is there any solution to this?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Hello, with new Crimson the memory of You card downclock?
> My card don't... http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/390#post_24982543


I dont use the memory downclock timings. I used to use them, but I ended up having driver crashes in BF4 and some DX9 games when I used them. The crashes didnt happen with the monitor not overclocked, and also didnt happen with the non downclock timings (weird), so I dont use them anymore.

i think it the extra few mhz on the pixel clock is just too much for my system when I use them.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I've given up on installing the driver, but one complaint I have is the monitor is almost unusable in dark games. The contrast is so poor I can't see anything at all. Is there any solution to this?


No success with any of the ICC profiles on the front page?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> No success with any of the ICC profiles on the front page?


I've tried several but I honestly can't see any difference at all between them, so I'm not sure they're working correctly. Possibly due to the driver not being installed? I know how I'm supposed to do the driver and navigate to the folder but Windows won't see the .inf file to select. Maybe a digital signature issue? But then it should just refuse to install it, not completely be unable to see it.


----------



## CaptainUnicornP

So i'm having trouble with my over clock for my QX2710. I'm updating the monitor in device manager, i'm patching it with patcher 1.3.5, everything is found and patched, I change the refresh rate on NvCp to 96 hrz, but when I go to UFO frame test there is stuttering even though it says I have a valid refresh rate. Does anyone know why the overclock is not working for me? Thanks If it helps, I have an Intel 4670K and two GTX 970's.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> So I've had my single input matte qnix qx2710 for about 10 months and it's been pretty solid @96hz. I was a bit curious and am wondering how the TRUE10 Evolution II versions are now.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/121362611435?hash=item1c41c67ceb:g:2UoAAOxyUylTPTVd
> 
> $200, flicker free, and also claims to not skip frames anymore?! Seems really good now, especially with all the newer cards phasing out their DVI ports.
> 
> Just curious as I haven't been following as closely as I should have. I'm probably holding off until I can get my hands on a GSync or Freesync 1440p ips display when they come down in price. The monitor market is moving quite quickly these days.


Just got the true10 evo II multi with dp off of ebay for $210 no bad pixels or bad blb. Mine can o/c to 90hz without frame skipping. also it seems to not have pwm. really nice monitor for the cash. My only prob is when I oc it to 90 hz and then hook up my secondary monitor that only runs at 1080p my qnix will frame skip. By itself it oc fine. any ideas?
thanks


----------



## Andr3az

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaCk-AtTaCk*
> 
> Just got the true10 evo II multi with dp off of ebay for $210 no bad pixels or bad blb. Mine can o/c to 90hz without frame skipping. also it seems to not have pwm. really nice monitor for the cash. My only prob is when I oc it to 90 hz and then hook up my secondary monitor that only runs at 1080p my qnix will frame skip. By itself it oc fine. any ideas?
> thanks


Are you sure you'r QNIX is set to main monitor? They won't OC if set to secondary.


----------



## MaCk-AtTaCk

The qnix is set as my defualt/ primary display. Although it is numbered as 2 were as my asus(1080p) is my secondary but it does have the #1 on it. To be clear though my qnix is set as primary even though it says #2. Do you think that matters?


----------



## Scorpion49

Ok I really need some help getting the driver installed for this Qnix. I can't run half of my programs with it overclocked because they crash out with device not recognized errors or have weird vsync problems. I've downloaded two different copies of the driver from two different places and windows can't see either one of them, they seem to not be actual .inf files but rather just .txt files.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Ok I really need some help getting the driver installed for this Qnix. I can't run half of my programs with it overclocked because they crash out with device not recognized errors or have weird vsync problems. I've downloaded two different copies of the driver from two different places and windows can't see either one of them, they seem to not be actual .inf files but rather just .txt files.


Must be *.inf, in OP You can find attached the driver, under spoiler of Overclocking Guide and Help.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> Must be *.inf, in OP You can find attached the driver, under spoiler of Overclocking Guide and Help.


I have that driver. I have another driver. It doesn't matter which one I have, I can't install them because Windows can't SEE them.

Here, like this. Nothing in the folder. Windows just goes back to "Default Monitor" after I select the folder.


----------



## N3RORE

Below is explain better(I hope).


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I have that driver. I have another driver. It doesn't matter which one I have, I can't install them because Windows can't SEE them.
> 
> Here, like this. Nothing in the folder. Windows just goes back to "Default Monitor" after I select the folder.




My desktop is in Italian but I think you can understand without problem.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3RORE*
> 
> My desktop is in Italian but I think you can understand without problem.


EDIT: I got it. I had to take the file out of the C drive for some reason to get it to let me use it even with driver signature enforcement disabled. Its done now. Thanks for the help.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> EDIT: I got it. I had to take the file out of the C drive for some reason to get it to let me use it even with driver signature enforcement disabled. Its done now. Thanks for the help.


Good!


----------



## doco

update from my previous post http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/24710#post_24872455

tldr - bought rev.01 mainboard. it works. rev.01 has a minor change compared to rev.00 mainboard. overclocking max 110hz so far. 120hz i am too scared. read below why.

i bought a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II mainboard off ebay. a reminder here is i have the 02 panel from when the qnix was first discovered to have overclocking capabilities besides the yamasaki. now this mainboard i bought was a rev.01. the early original qnix 2710s had a rev.00 mainboard. the layout and everything _almost_ was the same so i took a shot. low and behold it worked.

highest brightness


lowest brightness


so i said earlier the mainboards were _almost_ the same. there was one little change. the circle in red below has a bit of a shorter gap. this means you need the cable from rev.01 to use this part of the mainboard. *only this cable* is not interchangeable if you have a leftover cable for this part. people in my situation will need to make sure the seller includes the cable(s).


so does this rev.01 board overclock just as well as the rev.00 board? answer is yes and no. i tried 120hz on my first try. the result? screen went crazy with scanlines and a semi-loud pitching noise was being heard. i have no idea if it was from the mainboard or something else. custom timings were tried and *believe me I was scared* because of the semi-loud pitching noise everytime i tested it. it was a continuous pitching noise mind you. i no longer tried 120hz.

so i tried 110hz. perfectly fine except... a very low pitching noise can be heard everytime the monitor boots into windows. it's a one time very low pitching noise. my concern is "can this kill the mainboard eventually over time when i boot into windows each day?". any answer to this is helpful. btw anything over 60hz, this low pitching noise will occur when booting into windows.

gamma shifts when overclocking? tbh minor gamma shift in the top right. but it's way better than what the rev.00 board did for gamma shifts.

110hz tested. quick shot from a nexus 6 camera.


edit: took it apart again to figure out where the pitch noise is coming from. it turned out to be somewhere on the mainboard. and i could overclock to 120hz but with scanlines there and here. it was pretty weird how it was freaking out before. i got to 114hz with custom timings with no scanlines. that's about as far as i get with this main board.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> update from my previous post http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/24710#post_24872455
> 
> tldr - bought rev.01 mainboard. it works. rev.01 has a minor change compared to rev.00 mainboard. overclocking max 110hz so far. 120hz i am too scared. read below why.
> 
> i bought a QNIX QX2710 Evolution II mainboard off ebay. a reminder here is i have the 02 panel from when the qnix was first discovered to have overclocking capabilities besides the yamasaki. now this mainboard i bought was a rev.01. the early original qnix 2710s had a rev.00 mainboard. the layout and everything _almost_ was the same so i took a shot. low and behold it worked.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> highest brightness
> 
> 
> lowest brightness
> 
> 
> so i said earlier the mainboards were _almost_ the same. there was one little change. the circle in red below has a bit of a shorter gap. this means you need the cable from rev.01 to use this part of the mainboard. *only this cable* is not interchangeable if you have a leftover cable for this part. people in my situation will need to make sure the seller includes the cable(s).
> 
> 
> so does this rev.01 board overclock just as well as the rev.00 board? answer is yes and no. i tried 120hz on my first try. the result? screen went crazy with scanlines and a semi-loud pitching noise was being heard. i have no idea if it was from the mainboard or something else. custom timings were tried and *believe me I was scared* because of the semi-loud pitching noise everytime i tested it. it was a continuous pitching noise mind you. i no longer tried 120hz.
> 
> so i tried 110hz. perfectly fine except... a very low pitching noise can be heard everytime the monitor boots into windows. it's a one time very low pitching noise. my concern is "can this kill the mainboard eventually over time when i boot into windows each day?". any answer to this is helpful. btw anything over 60hz, this low pitching noise will occur when booting into windows.
> 
> gamma shifts when overclocking? tbh minor gamma shift in the top right. but it's way better than what the rev.00 board did for gamma shifts.
> 
> 110hz tested. quick shot from a nexus 6 camera.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: took it apart again to figure out where the pitch noise is coming from. it turned out to be somewhere on the mainboard. and i could overclock to 120hz but with scanlines there and here. it was pretty weird how it was freaking out before. i got to 114hz with custom timings with no scanlines. that's about as far as i get with this main board .


Very Nice, good info! ... +R









Few more questions? ...
1) Ebay Link to where you ordered the new Rev.01 board from?
2) Did the new Rev.01 board come with the cables? If not, where did you get them?
3) With your old Rev.00 board were you able to clock 120Hz before it blew?

That Gamma shift in the top right sounds problematic, as an ICC correction file won't help ... But I bet it is just a loose connection somewhere?


----------



## doco

i found it randomly by searching "qnix 2710 board". the seller had a defunctional PLS panel and took out the main board to sell. there is no seller who has a mass supply of these boards. i asked the seller to include all the cables since they weren't shown in the ebay listing. my old rev.00 board could get to 120hz but with scanlines there and here. the gamma shift is not due to a loose connection. it's been very well documented the early qnix panels have gamma shifts when overclocking.


----------



## TomcatV

*EDIT:* The new QNIX models: Qnix QX2710R & Qnix QHD2730R have some info by NCX *HERE*








AND some comparative pics in his post *HERE*, just trashing the PQ of the Acer XB271HU & Rog Swift PG279Q 144Hz AUOptronics panels









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> i found it randomly by searching "qnix 2710 board". the seller had a defunctional PLS panel and took out the main board to sell. there is no seller who has a mass supply of these boards. i asked the seller to include all the cables since they weren't shown in the ebay listing. my old rev.00 board could get to 120hz but with scanlines there and here. the gamma shift is not due to a loose connection. *it's been very well documented the early qnix panels have gamma shifts when overclocking*.


Thanks for filling in some details









Gamma shift in L02 panels? ... No Kidding









To quote you ...

*gamma shifts when overclocking? tbh minor gamma shift in the top right. but it's way better than what the rev.00 board did for gamma shifts.
*

Then what you are seeing is not gamma Shift ... it would effect the whole panel!
Hence why so many of us years ago worked so hard on OC'd custom ICC profiles


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> To quote you ...
> 
> *gamma shifts when overclocking? tbh minor gamma shift in the top right. but it's way better than what the rev.00 board did for gamma shifts.
> *
> 
> Then what you are seeing is not gamma Shift ... it would effect the whole panel!
> Hence why so many of us years ago worked so hard on OC'd custom ICC profiles


then what would you call it when certain parts of the panel would turn darker than the rest? every other post i read in those days referred to it is as gamma shift.

and yes, color shifting still does happen along with the top right darkening.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> To quote you ...
> 
> *gamma shifts when overclocking? tbh minor gamma shift in the top right. but it's way better than what the rev.00 board did for gamma shifts.
> *
> 
> Then what you are seeing is not gamma Shift ... it would effect the whole panel!
> Hence why so many of us years ago worked so hard on OC'd custom ICC profiles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then what would you call it when certain parts of the panel would turn darker than the rest? every other post i read in those days referred to it is as gamma shift.
> 
> and yes, color shifting still does happen along with the top right darkening.
Click to expand...

Sounds more like a "uniformity" problem, especially if it's in only 1 quadrant, also that cannot be corrected with calibration or a custom ICC profile ... unfortunately it is usually an early sign of panel failure if all connections and your board is good







... Hope that makes sense as I'm not trying to be a debby-downer here as you did fine work reviving you panel! Additionally I'd go ahead and buy the AP18N20GH mosfet to repair your old board for a backup, even if you had to pay a TV repair shop $20 to solder it in


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Sounds more like a "uniformity" problem, especially if it's in only 1 quadrant, also that cannot be corrected with calibration or a custom ICC profile ... unfortunately it is usually an early sign of panel failure if all connections and your board is good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Hope that makes sense as I'm not trying to be a debby-downer here as you did fine work reviving you panel! Additionally I'd go ahead and buy the AP18N20GH mosfet to repair your old board for a backup, even if you had to pay a TV repair shop $20 to solder it in


funny you say that! a retired electrician my father knows dropped by earlier yesterday. he returned the board with the new mosfet soldered on.

the mosfet that burnt out on the rev.00 board


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









the rev.00 board with the new AP18N20GH moset soldered on


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





back of the rev.00 pcb cleaned up where the burnt mosfet was



the result?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



120hz @ the same timings the rev.01 board had for 114hz. no scanlines.




now do i dare run the PLS panel above 60hz again? the answer is no. the electrician who did the work told me the burnt out mosfet almost took out the board when he saw the damage underneath it. another post was also saying the mosfet is not rated to handle the abuse of what overclocking does to it. i do love the panel so i will use it as a secondary monitor from this point on @ 60hz.


----------



## CaptainUnicornP

So i'm having trouble with my over clock for my QX2710. I'm updating the monitor in device manager, i'm patching it with patcher 1.3.5, everything is found and patched, I change the refresh rate on NvCp to 96 hrz, but when I go to UFO frame test there is stuttering even though it says I have a valid refresh rate. Does anyone know why the overclock is not working for me? Thanks If it helps, I have an Intel 4670K and two GTX 970's.


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> When using Netflix or Amazon Prime video (apparently if Silverlight is being used), both of my Qnix screens turn into a gray static noise picture. The computer still works but both screens just turn to that. I have to Alt F4 the browser to see something again.
> 
> I can solve that if I set the screens back to 60hz instead of 120hz. Is there any other solution to that? (Flash, Java, Silverlight etc are all up to date). Issue occurs with Edge, IE and Chrome.


Anyone?


----------



## jacquesstrap

I believe I've settled on ordering a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Panel PC Monitor, as I will be gaming and want single input with lowest input lag. I plan on overclocking, seems the consensus is these hit 96Hz pretty easily with no frame skipping.

When I looked into a 27'' 1440P a few years ago, AccessoresWhole was one of the better sellers. Would it be fair to say this is still the case?

I'm located in Toronto, Ontario, Canada - wondering if anyone else in Canada has had experience ordering from this seller in terms of any taxes, duty, shipping times, issues etc.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?hash=item1e7c39ae25:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e

Thanks and appreciate it - looking forward to joining the club.


----------



## XMorsX

As I read around, the older pls qnix are not a good deal anymore. MenacingTuba recommends the Qnix QX2710 Multi Hot as a better alternative, since it is flicker free, it overclocks to 87Hz and has much better picture quality.

If you have to buy an absolutely delay-free monitor, the crossovers 2795qhd and 27s ips dp freedom have also been tested and found to be great, allthough a bit more expensive, delay free purchases.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacquesstrap*
> 
> I believe I've settled on ordering a QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Panel PC Monitor, as I will be gaming and want single input with lowest input lag.


The Qnix PLS suck now due to PWM lottery, panel lottery and gamma shift when overclocked. Spend more on the Crossover 2795 QHD which is PWM Blur+Flicker Free, has better image quality, faster pixel response times and doesn't suffer from uniformity issues and black crush when overclocked. Crossover 2795 QHD Thread.

Canadian duty fee will cost 30-50$ depending on the value the seller declares.


----------



## felicia

Hi, Just received QX2710 from green_sum. LTM270DL02 panel, no dead pixels no backlight bleed. Works well with onboard radeon graphics at 60hz.
Like the all metal frame on panel, will try with r9 390x hope it is ok, nice unit, will try crossover if this does not work out, Thanks for all the GREAT info sure helped a lot


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> Hi, Just received QX2710 from green_sum. LTM270DL02 panel, no dead pixels no backlight bleed. Works well with onboard radeon graphics at 60hz.
> Like the all metal frame on panel, will try with r9 390x hope it is ok, nice unit, will try crossover if this does not work out, Thanks for all the GREAT info sure helped a lot


HI, been fooling with QX2710,
Found AMD A10-6700 APU with Radeon (HD 8670D) HD Graphics on FM2A88X-ITX+ works very well at 2560x1440 60hz
This is simular cpu to both Xbox and PS4 so an hdmi to dvid cable like this should at least get 1920x1080.

With Strix R9 390X stable no artifacts at 96hz, tested to 120hz stopped there as did not see point of going higher. Will run this at 60hz except maybe for some games.
I got QX2710 but still seems like GREAT value (so far)


----------



## jawajawa

Does anyone know what replacement PCB/mainboardss are compatible with the samsung PLS that comes in the Qnix Q2710 (8bit)? Or where to order a replacement board? I tested my panel in another qnix and it is fine but there is something wrong with the Displayland DPL-2560LS board and it isn't powering on.


----------



## felicia

[my bad]


----------



## jacquesstrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XMorsX*
> 
> As I read around, the older pls qnix are not a good deal anymore. MenacingTuba recommends the Qnix QX2710 Multi Hot as a better alternative, since it is flicker free, it overclocks to 87Hz and has much better picture quality.
> 
> If you have to buy an absolutely delay-free monitor, the crossovers 2795qhd and 27s ips dp freedom have also been tested and found to be great, allthough a bit more expensive, delay free purchases.


Actually I ended up buying and returning a QX2710 Multi True10 (with "HOT" line of sight). Despite being able to overclock it to 85hz with no frame skipping, the input lag was unbelievably bad and made playing abt game unbearable - FPS like counter strike, and even a MOBA like DOTA2. I would strongly recommend AGAINST a multi input version due to the lag from the scaler. Single input (DVI-D) seems to be the way to go here.


----------



## XMorsX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacquesstrap*
> 
> Actually I ended up buying and returning a QX2710 Multi True10 (with "HOT" line of sight). Despite being able to overclock it to 85hz with no frame skipping, the input lag was unbelievably bad and made playing abt game unbearable - FPS like counter strike, and even a MOBA like DOTA2. I would strongly recommend AGAINST a multi input version due to the lag from the scaler. Single input (DVI-D) seems to be the way to go here.


Are we talking about the ahva version below?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA90V3G61319

It is found to have about 20ms of input lag, which is usually not noticable unless you come from an absolutely delay-free monitor like the 144Hz TN ones and you play fps games like cs:go. This seems to be the reason you noticed it.
If it was not the above monitor, then I cannot comment about it, not all qnix monitors are equal.

The crossover 27s though has been found to have ~12ms input lag, which is negligible no matter your usage. Its main downside is its inability to overclock, but with an acceptable freesync range and 75hz refresh time for nvidia gpus it makes for a great package overall, since it has better image quality that the older korean monitors.


----------



## Difenc

Just updated to Win 10 from a clean win 7 install, updated nvidia drivers to 364.72, then followed all the instructions in the updated OC thread by lawson67, that worked on 8.1 for me a year ago, but this time at the end NVCP only shows a range of 59-61Hz available. Tried: both xstar(mine) and qnix drivers linked in the updated thread,and the one in this theme's OP, nvidia drivers: 362.00, 364.72, even 353.82. Any ideas why it doesn't work?
Edit: the GPU is Gygabite 970 G1
Edit 2: succesfully OCed using CRU and Pixel Clock Patcher with custom extension block (without it doesn't work) in CRU


----------



## Scorpion49

I think I'm about done with this monitor. I can't stand to look at it for more than 5-10 minutes at a time and its killing my gaming. Something about it just hurts my eyes so badly, its like staring at the sun. I've been through numerous calibrations for it and the gamma is always so far off it isn't even funny (even non-overclocked I have to boost it to +3.25 in CCC to have it be bearable).

I might just throw it out, it seems like something is way off with it. At least it was cheap.


----------



## felicia

Sure hope it is not the panel! Looked at sammy site the LO7 panels are over $500

50" 4K SUHD JS7000 in game mode, low lag, good colors, about $700 used, 60" is $1500 new at samsung
Newwegg has 4k on shellshocker sale $800 for 31" 5ms 10bit


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I think I'm about done with this monitor. I can't stand to look at it for more than 5-10 minutes at a time and its killing my gaming.


It's likely the LED PWM Dimming/Flicker which has been discussed since these monitors came out in 2013. PWM ruins motion clarity and makes some people suffer from health issues like headaches and/or eyestrain.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> Sure hope it is not the panel! Looked at sammy site the LO7 panels are over $500
> 
> 50" 4K SUHD JS7000 in game mode, low lag, good colors, about $700 used, 60" is $1500 new at samsung
> Newwegg has 4k on shellshocker sale $800 for 31" 5ms 10bit


This is a very incoherent post. Anyway, Samsung TV's also use PWM while Sony does not.


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Difenc*
> 
> Just updated to Win 10 from a clean win 7 install, updated nvidia drivers to 364.72, then followed all the instructions in the updated OC thread by lawson67, that worked on 8.1 for me a year ago, but this time at the end NVCP only shows a range of 59-61Hz available. Tried: both xstar(mine) and qnix drivers linked in the updated thread,and the one in this theme's OP, nvidia drivers: 362.00, 364.72, even 353.82. Any ideas why it doesn't work?
> Edit: the GPU is Gygabite 970 G1
> Edit 2: succesfully OCed using CRU and Pixel Clock Patcher with custom extension block (without it doesn't work) in CRU


Yes, That is how I did it, CRU and pixel patcher a condensed guide NICE win10 tweeks for gaming (god mode) Gygabite 970 G1 NICE card!


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It's likely the LED PWM Dimming/Flicker which has been discussed since these monitors came out in 2013. PWM ruins motion clarity and makes some people suffer from health issues like headaches and/or eyestrain.
> This is a very incoherent post. Anyway, Samsung TV's also use PWM while Sony does not.


Yes, many thoughts whizzing by.
Most of the Sony i see are PWM Dimming direct LED,
I may be incorrect but see new Samsung are Direct Current backlight system?
Anyway I turn brightness up and crank Frequency, hard to understand how anyone can see 200Hz flashing though.....
Hope I did not make mistake buying the 2710.... can't afford $2000 replacement


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It's likely the LED PWM Dimming/Flicker which has been discussed since these monitors came out in 2013. PWM ruins motion clarity and makes some people suffer from health issues like headaches and/or eyestrain.
> This is a very incoherent post. Anyway, Samsung TV's also use PWM while Sony does not.


I don't think its PWM, while I am sensitive to it this doesn't give me the same symptoms I usually get with a PWM screen. This just seems to be a brightness/contrast issue. Maybe too much blue light? I have a similar issue with many of the 27" TN 144hz monitors, even on very very low brightness they feel like looking directly at a lightbulb.


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I don't think its PWM, while I am sensitive to it this doesn't give me the same symptoms I usually get with a PWM screen. This just seems to be a brightness/contrast issue. Maybe too much blue light? I have a similar issue with many of the 27" TN 144hz monitors, even on very very low brightness they feel like looking directly at a lightbulb.


Terrible circumstance! I was reading about blue light seems very plausible. This discussion has many good links and may address some concerns.

also this -- and this
This eyeware helps me
Maybe go back to CRT? arcade monitor or arcade a few on ebay but shipping costly


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> Terrible circumstance! I was reading about blue light seems very plausible. This discussion has many good links and may address some concerns.
> 
> also this -- and this
> This eyeware helps me
> Maybe go back to CRT? arcade monitor or arcade a few on ebay but shipping costly


Yeah, its tough finding a nice monitor. I actually have a pair of gunnar glasses and they do indeed help a ton. The problem is I have to lean way up to the screen because I wear regular glasses too otherwise I can't see it. I'll just have to save up and get a good monitor, my last BenQ was really good.


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yeah, its tough finding a nice monitor. I actually have a pair of gunnar glasses and they do indeed help a ton. The problem is I have to lean way up to the screen because I wear regular glasses too otherwise I can't see it. I'll just have to save up and get a good monitor, my last BenQ was really good.


Yes! BenQ Great monitor no PWM on some.
I also have these glasses they have many magnifications and frame style also a fraction of the cost of Gunnars


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Yeah, its tough finding a nice monitor. I actually have a pair of gunnar glasses and they do indeed help a ton. The problem is I have to lean way up to the screen because I wear regular glasses too otherwise I can't see it. I'll just have to save up and get a good monitor, my last BenQ was really good.


There are prescriptions for Gunnars. You can also get AR (anti-reflective) coating on regular glasses to partially get the benefits of Gunnars.

I spent something like $350 on my glasses (even after insurance discounts), but got a bunch of perks such as carbon fiber frame (almost don't feel my glasses at all) and anti-reflective coating. It definitely made a difference in experiencing less strain for both work and home monitor usage. I'm only 25, so my eyes are still strong and healthy, but I put high priority on taking care of my eyes since I'm looking at a screen anywhere from 10-18 hours in any given day.


----------



## taveren11

Just got a single input PLS Qnix. I have red lines over exactly 1/2 of the display. This is connected with included cable to a NVIDIA 780.

It appears a connection issue either in the cable or internally as it comes and goes. However it is there well more than half the time.


----------



## taveren11

I should note the red is mostly noticeable over black backgrounds which is why I changed my desktop to all black. It kind of bleeds through other colors and is completely hidden by others.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taveren11*
> 
> I should note the red is mostly noticeable over black backgrounds which is why I changed my desktop to all black. It kind of bleeds through other colors and is completely hidden by others.


Did you try another cable? 1st thing I would try.


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I don't think its PWM, while I am sensitive to it this doesn't give me the same symptoms I usually get with a PWM screen. This just seems to be a brightness/contrast issue. Maybe too much blue light? I have a similar issue with many of the 27" TN 144hz monitors, even on very very low brightness they feel like looking directly at a lightbulb.


Ran across f.lux like what it does may help, but for me mag glasses work wonders, hard to get focal point right but great when you do. Always use some magnification, forms (we still use paper) SMT protos, machinist tools, et al.


----------



## sweenytodd

My QX2710LED is now almost 2 years old and I woke up this morning with this,



I think I should start with the cable. What else can I do if the problem persists?


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweenytodd*
> 
> My QX2710LED is now almost 2 years old and I woke up this morning with this,
> 
> 
> 
> I think I should start with the cable. What else can I do if the problem persists?


I had similar shading problem, tried correcting catalyst/uninstall drivers/reinstall, frequency, unplug/restarts, disassebled and reseated connetctors. enter safe mode and run "reset-all", plugged/unplugged dvi cable. one of these worked (*think drivers) I also seperated DVI cable from any EFI source)).
I decided this unit is not worth the uncertainty, bought a BenQ XL2730Z, Very Happy, only a bit more for refurbished, maybe a mistake in long run but night and day now.


----------



## misiak

Hi guys, two questions for experts here. Can this monitor overclock to 96+Hz ? It's single DVI glossy panel, not sure:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?hash=item1e9336ba5c:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e

Also these monitors have speakers, but do I need to plug in the cable from my sound card or does it have DVI audio ?

Thx.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Hi guys, two questions for experts here. Can this monitor overclock to 96+Hz ? It's single DVI glossy panel, not sure:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?hash=item1e9336ba5c:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e
> 
> Also these monitors have speakers, but do I need to plug in the cable from my sound card or does it have DVI audio ?
> 
> Thx.


Yep, almost all of them (99.5%) will do 96Hz and quite a few will do 110 or even 120Hz ... BUT the newer "glossy" models with the L07 panel have all of them crippled by PWM diming ... trust me I had one pass through my hands and not only did I notice the PWM effects fairly soon, I couldn't get over how badly it blurs the image upon rapid mouse movements in game ... while a static desktop picture looked pretty nice (it's a glossy after all) the motion blurring was pretty bad! YMMV









Oh, never used the speakers, but yes you'll need to connect a separate sound cord, only other connection left next to the DVI input









Edit ... check out the Crossover 2795 *HERE* ... it's not a glossy but on sale they are about the same price as th QX2710 ... OR NCX says the newer Multi "HOT" model is PWM free and pretty decent even with the AHVA type panel


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Yep, almost all of them (99.5%) will do 96Hz and quite a few will do 110 or even 120Hz ... BUT the newer "glossy" models with the L07 panel have all of them crippled by PWM diming ... trust me I had one pass through my hands and not only did I notice the PWM effects fairly soon, I couldn't get over how badly it blurs the image upon rapid mouse movements in game ... while a static desktop picture looked pretty nice (it's a glossy after all) the motion blurring was pretty bad! YMMV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, never used the speakers, but yes you'll need to connect a separate sound cord, only other connection left next to the DVI input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit ... check out the Crossover 2795 *HERE* ... it's not a glossy but on sale they are about the same price as th QX2710 ... OR NCX says the newer Multi "HOT" model is PWM free and pretty decent even with the AHVA type panel


Ho, thanks for input. Oh jees, are the glossy ones really so bad? :-( I'd really like to have glossy panel, is there any other option for me?

Well for audio usualy monitors equiped with speekers works with audio over hdmi, dp or dvi therefore I'm curious if this koreans support audio over dvi in this case there are no other ports avaíable.

Also do you know if Samsung PLS is better than ahva from LG? What abou overclocking? Thx


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Ho, thanks for input. Oh jees, are the glossy ones really so bad? :-( I'd really like to have glossy panel, is there any other option for me?
> 
> Well for audio usualy monitors equiped with speekers works with audio over hdmi, dp or dvi therefore I'm curious if this koreans support audio over dvi in this case there are no other ports avaíable.
> 
> Also do you know if Samsung PLS is better than ahva from LG? What abou overclocking? Thx


No the glossy are GREAT! I just got mine from green-sum and it is a LTM270DL02 samsung panel (good one, no dead pixels or bleed) has two left.
I just bought a TN panel and the colors on PLS panel are better! You will have reflections on screen if light source in back of you but this dissappears when panel brightness changes. If you want to spend more look at an IPS crossover, wild,


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> No the glossy are GREAT! I just got mine from green-sum and it is a LTM270DL02 samsung panel (good one, no dead pixels or bleed) has two left.
> I just bought a TN panel and the colors on PLS panel are better! You will have reflections on screen if light source in back of you but this dissappears when panel brightness changes. If you want to spend more look at an IPS crossover, wild,


Thx for reply. Now I have two oposite opinions  I really like glossy panels but I'm bit worried about PWM. It's used on full range brightness or only on some kebels? I don't like 120Hz strobing but I think this could be different.

In any case this revision L02 is fine with PWM? Only L06 is affected?

LG panels seems to have better parameters but do you know how far they can be oberclocked?

What's screen uniformity on these panels Samsung vs LG ? Do you have an idea?

And kast qustion, if I order without Pixel Perfect option how big is the chance to get a monitor without pixel defects ?







thx


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> No the glossy are GREAT! I just got mine from green-sum and it is a LTM270DL02 samsung panel (good one, no dead pixels or bleed) has two left.
> I just bought a TN panel and the colors on PLS panel are better! You will have reflections on screen if light source in back of you but this dissappears when panel brightness changes. If you want to spend more look at an IPS crossover, wild,
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for reply. Now I have two oposite opinions  I really like glossy panels but I'm bit worried about PWM. It's used on full range brightness or only on some kebels? I don't like 120Hz strobing but I think this could be different.
> 
> In any case this revision L02 is fine with PWM? Only L06 is affected?
> 
> LG panels seems to have better parameters but do you know how far they can be oberclocked?
> 
> What's screen uniformity on these panels Samsung vs LG ? Do you have an idea?
> 
> And kast qustion, if I order without Pixel Perfect option how big is the chance to get a monitor without pixel defects ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx
Click to expand...

1)Not really 2 different opinions? If you can get the L02 glossy like Felicia says, *I'd jump on it.* I luv my L02 glossy but it's from the early days couple years ago (Aug 2013) ... and it seemed all the newer (past year) glossy's were L07. But even back in the day it was a lottery if you got one that was PWM free or not, back then though it seemed most of us did get PWM free w/the hard to find glossy version









2) Single-input Sammy PLS panels were/are consistently very good overclockers, but a lot of that has to do with the PCB not just the panel ... uniformity is very good (also with the 2795 LG) ... nothing like the AUOptronic junk you find in the premium GSync 144Hz Asus/Acer $800 dollar panels.

3) IMO pixel perfect is a sales gimmick, I don't think green-sum, dream-seller etc etc check their panels, it just gives them a monetary refund buffer/offer if your not happy with the unit you receive ... I've seen just as many no pixel defect monitors come from the Non-pixel perfect order options ... READ each sellers "Fine Print" ... hope that helps


----------



## taveren11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taveren11*
> 
> Just got a single input PLS Qnix. I have red lines over exactly 1/2 of the display. This is connected with included cable to a NVIDIA 780.
> 
> It appears a connection issue either in the cable or internally as it comes and goes. However it is there well more than half the time.


And a brand new cable from monoprice did not correct the issue. Any thoughts? Whites show perfectly on all aspects of monitor. Randomly black shows red on exactly 1/2 the screen.


----------



## Andr3az

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taveren11*
> 
> And a brand new cable from monoprice did not correct the issue. Any thoughts? Whites show perfectly on all aspects of monitor. Randomly black shows red on exactly 1/2 the screen.


Open the monitor and check all internal connections. Or maybe its driver problem?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 1)Not really 2 different opinions? If you can get the L02 glossy like Felicia says, *I'd jump on it.* I luv my L02 glossy but it's from the early days couple years ago (Aug 2013) ... and it seemed all the newer (past year) glossy's were L07. But even back in the day it was a lottery if you got one that was PWM free or not, back then though it seemed most of us did get PWM free w/the hard to find glossy version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Single-input Sammy PLS panels were/are consistently very good overclockers, but a lot of that has to do with the PCB not just the panel ... uniformity is very good (also with the 2795 LG) ... nothing like the AUOptronic junk you find in the premium GSync 144Hz Asus/Acer $800 dollar panels.
> 
> 3) IMO pixel perfect is a sales gimmick, I don't think green-sum, dream-seller etc etc check their panels, it just gives them a monetary refund buffer/offer if your not happy with the unit you receive ... I've seen just as many no pixel defect monitors come from the Non-pixel perfect order options ... READ each sellers "Fine Print" ... hope that helps


What you mean lottery with PWM free monitors? PWM is a technology and this should not have anything common with luck, right ?

I agree that AUO panels are just trash, I had 8 and I've finished with them. Every single one had poor uniformity, some of them had bad BLB or dust under screen.

Why do you think it's a gimmick ? Well I assume if you buy pixel perfect and he send you the monitor with a single dead or stuck pixel then he have to replace it on his own cost right ? What is Fine Print ?

I saw that green-sum not ship outside US, is this dream-seller good as well ?


----------



## EffOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taveren11*
> 
> And a brand new cable from monoprice did not correct the issue. Any thoughts? Whites show perfectly on all aspects of monitor. Randomly black shows red on exactly 1/2 the screen.


If I were you, your monitor would of been shipped back already. Contact the seller and show them your pics with explanation, tell them you got a lemon. Usually they will honor exchange at no cost if you choose to, as soon as they get confirmation of return a new one will be shipped.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 1)Not really 2 different opinions? If you can get the L02 glossy like Felicia says, *I'd jump on it.* I luv my L02 glossy but it's from the early days couple years ago (Aug 2013) ... and it seemed all the newer (past year) glossy's were L07. But even back in the day it was a lottery if you got one that was PWM free or not, back then though it seemed most of us did get PWM free w/the hard to find glossy version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Single-input Sammy PLS panels were/are consistently very good overclockers, but a lot of that has to do with the PCB not just the panel ... uniformity is very good (also with the 2795 LG) ... nothing like the AUOptronic junk you find in the premium GSync 144Hz Asus/Acer $800 dollar panels.
> 
> 3) IMO pixel perfect is a sales gimmick, I don't think green-sum, dream-seller etc etc check their panels, it just gives them a monetary refund buffer/offer if your not happy with the unit you receive ... I've seen just as many no pixel defect monitors come from the Non-pixel perfect order options ... READ each sellers "Fine Print" ... hope that helps


@TomcatV, btw, these issues with PWM are related only to glossy versions of the panel or to the matte as well ? Also I think, since this is 300cd/m2 panel, I can use it at 100% brightness where PWM should be disabled, do you think it would be problem as well in this case ? Thx


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 1)Not really 2 different opinions? If you can get the L02 glossy like Felicia says, *I'd jump on it.* I luv my L02 glossy but it's from the early days couple years ago (Aug 2013) ... and it seemed all the newer (past year) glossy's were L07. But even back in the day it was a lottery if you got one that was PWM free or not, back then though it seemed most of us did get PWM free w/the hard to find glossy version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Single-input Sammy PLS panels were/are consistently very good overclockers, but a lot of that has to do with the PCB not just the panel ... uniformity is very good (also with the 2795 LG) ... nothing like the AUOptronic junk you find in the premium GSync 144Hz Asus/Acer $800 dollar panels.
> 
> 3) IMO pixel perfect is a sales gimmick, I don't think green-sum, dream-seller etc etc check their panels, it just gives them a monetary refund buffer/offer if your not happy with the unit you receive ... I've seen just as many no pixel defect monitors come from the Non-pixel perfect order options ... READ each sellers "Fine Print" ... hope that helps
> 
> 
> 
> @TomcatV, btw, these issues with PWM are related only to glossy versions of the panel or to the matte as well ? Also I think, since this is 300cd/m2 panel, I can use it at 100% brightness where PWM should be disabled, do you think it would be problem as well in this case ? Thx
Click to expand...

Lottery because there is no ryme or reason or markings to differentiate which panels had PWM or not ... in the past it effected matte and glossy alike, but the newer models all L07 glossies are effected and most L02 matte's are not, but there is no way to tell except to test it yourself, brightness comfort is a personal thing, 100% would be way to much for me









If you know PWM will bother you go with the Crossover 2795









Pixel Defect return policies with paid return shipping are almost never accepted by Korean sellers, just the way it is. They usually only accept paid RMA for major defects like tavern11 above









@tavern11 ... Andr3az gave you the same advice I would, I think it is a connection or faulty PCB. But you might also try a "clean" install with Win7 and Nvidia 353.62 drivers to rule out drivers


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Lottery because there is no ryme or reason or markings to differentiate which panels had PWM or not ... in the past it effected matte and glossy alike, but the newer models all L07 glossies are effected and most L02 matte's are not, but there is no way to tell except to test it yourself, brightness comfort is a personal thing, 100% would be way to much for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you know PWM will bother you go with the Crossover 2795
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pixel Defect return policies with paid return shipping are almost never accepted by Korean sellers, just the way it is. They usually only accept paid RMA for major defects like tavern11 above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @tavern11 ... Andr3az gave you the same advice I would, I think it is a connection or faulty PCB. But you might also try a "clean" install with Win7 and Nvidia 353.62 drivers to rule out drivers


Thx, well I don't know if PWM would bother me, maybe not, but you have mentioned that picture is not smooth with PWM diming. This concerns me more as I don't want to have any artifacts on the screen









You said there is no ryme, but seller must know if the panel use PWM or not ?? I saw a video where a guy compared old L02 with L07 and the difference is pretty huge. Is there any seller still selling L02 glossy panels ?

If not, is there any other Korean alternative for a glossy overclockable screen without PWM ? The crossover is not glossy right ?

So you are saying that if I paid pixel perfect and got one with faulty pixel the seller will refuse to exchange it ??? This would be a violation of ebay policy in my opinion...


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Thx, well I don't know if PWM would bother me, maybe not, but you have mentioned that picture is not smooth with PWM diming. This concerns me more as I don't want to have any artifacts on the screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You said there is no ryme, but seller must know if the panel use PWM or not ?? I saw a video where a guy compared old L02 with L07 and the difference is pretty huge. Is there any seller still selling L02 glossy panels ?
> 
> If not, is there any other Korean alternative for a glossy overclockable screen without PWM ? The crossover is not glossy right ?
> 
> So you are saying that if I paid pixel perfect and got one with faulty pixel the seller will refuse to exchange it ??? This would be a violation of ebay policy in my opinion...


This is glossy from green-sum Panel sticker:

Panel specs: LTM270DL02 mounting holes on side
LTM270DL04


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> This is glossy from green-sum Panel sticker:
> 
> Panel specs: LTM270DL02 mounting holes on side
> LTM270DL04


This is nice but when did you buy it? Also green-sum does not ship outside US so it is out of scope for me :-( Any chance that other seller still have some L02 on stock? 7daysdirect or dream-seller?


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> This is nice but when did you buy it? Also green-sum does not ship outside US so it is out of scope for me :-( Any chance that other seller still have some L02 on stock? 7daysdirect or dream-seller?


You can ask them but very unlikely as panels have been out of production for some time. I searched ebay (US) looks like dell used this panel in their ONE maybe get pre owned? LIke this maybe find someone who will ship outside US? PLUS you get a whole computer with it!


----------



## misiak

So I've pulled the trigger on QX2710 Glossy version so I hope for the best. I plan to use monitor at 100% brightness with Lightpack so I don't care about PWM that much. And I love glossy panels so this is the only option (I don't want to play with removing ag coating at all). I only hope there will be no dead pixels and no major BLB. Also hope IPS glow will be small enough. I will let you know once I get it.

For the past half a year I've tried many monitors and I was not satisfied either because the price was to high for the quality (PG279Q, XB270HU, XB271HU) or panels were utter crap (some cheap dells, hp and benqs). After this I have nothing to loose with Qnix. Only throw it into trash bin in worst case but it's worth of a try


----------



## Atomagenesis

I think you'll like it. I've had mine for 2.5 years @ 110hz, no problems. It's a work-horse.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> I think you'll like it. I've had mine for 2.5 years @ 110hz, no problems. It's a work-horse.


You also have glossy version ? I'm only concerned about different panels used, you may still have rev. XXXL02 which were better. OC is my first prion as I can't stand anything less than 100Hz (after I've tried 165HZ panels). But image quality is trash on those so I hope this PLS panel will be better. So 120Hz sounds very good for me







Btw, how is the audio on these? I noticed there is audio in, that's pity audio doesn't work over DVI.


----------



## Sunii

Was wondering if anyone could help me with troubleshooting the Qnix2710. I have a feeling the monitor died out on me, but slight hope it might just be the power adapter. I had this monitor for about 2-3 years now. Monitor was working fine yesterday, but when I woke up this morning and I could not power on the monitor. I checked the power adapter and the green LED light was blinking when the adapter was plugged into the monitor. So I unplugged it and the adapter's LED stayed a solid green. Then I replug the adapter back in, and not for too long I hear pulse of zaps (Not sure how to explain it better). So I unplugged it, and I hoping this was not the case where my adapter short circuit the monitor. Not sure if this means anything, but the DVI cable that's plugged into the Qnix monitor my computer still detects the Qnix monitor.

If is it the power supply/adapter. does anyone have any suggestions on replacements for this monitor?


----------



## Atomagenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> You also have glossy version ? I'm only concerned about different panels used, you may still have rev. XXXL02 which were better. OC is my first prion as I can't stand anything less than 100Hz (after I've tried 165HZ panels). But image quality is trash on those so I hope this PLS panel will be better. So 120Hz sounds very good for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, how is the audio on these? I noticed there is audio in, that's pity audio doesn't work over DVI.


Its a Matte. I've never used the audio, not really sure why you'd want to. I'm not sure how to check which panel I have. I've had it for awhile though.


----------



## Atomagenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunii*
> 
> Was wondering if anyone could help me with troubleshooting the Qnix2710. I have a feeling the monitor died out on me, but slight hope it might just be the power adapter. I had this monitor for about 2-3 years now. Monitor was working fine yesterday, but when I woke up this morning and I could not power on the monitor. I checked the power adapter and the green LED light was blinking when the adapter was plugged into the monitor. So I unplugged it and the adapter's LED stayed a solid green. Then I replug the adapter back in, and not for too long I hear pulse of zaps (Not sure how to explain it better). So I unplugged it, and I hoping this was not the case where my adapter short circuit the monitor. Not sure if this means anything, but the DVI cable that's plugged into the Qnix monitor my computer still detects the Qnix monitor.
> 
> If is it the power supply/adapter. does anyone have any suggestions on replacements for this monitor?


There is a thread here on OCN with some suggestions. Can't remember where though.


----------



## Sunii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> There is a thread here on OCN with some suggestions. Can't remember where though.


I'll try to look around, but don't know if I'll have any luck. Though, I ended up purchasing a T-Power one, not sure if they are considered a decent power supply/adapter brand for monitors. Was marketed that it works for the Qnix.


----------



## Atomagenesis

I'm sure it will. I bought a new power brick for mine, was the correct rated amperage and voltage, but the dc input ended up being too big even though I bought the exact spec according to Qnix, so their official spec is not correct I think it was 3.1mm if I'm not mistaken, can't remember. My original powerprick is still kicking though, so I dont have to replace it quite yet.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> Its a Matte. I've never used the audio, not really sure why you'd want to. I'm not sure how to check which panel I have. I've had it for awhile though.


Well, from time to time I don't want to use headphones when watching some YouTube videos so it can be handy. Nevertheless, I can live without that...


----------



## Sunii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> I'm sure it will. I bought a new power brick for mine, was the correct rated amperage and voltage, but the dc input ended up being too big even though I bought the exact spec according to Qnix, so their official spec is not correct I think it was 3.1mm if I'm not mistaken, can't remember. My original powerprick is still kicking though, so I dont have to replace it quite yet.


Ah that's unfortunate. I'll test out when the new power brick does come. And that's fortunate that your original is still working, I guess I just got unlucky.


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Well, from time to time I don't want to use headphones when watching some YouTube videos so it can be handy. Nevertheless, I can live without that...


Audio from built in speaks typical of many... adequate but not much bass. as good as most lappys. Hope you get "good one" Taking apart I always break part of a tab so if it works you may want to avoid. I see you tried many, if this does not work maybe look on Alibaba exchange rate maybe better than US, Have Fun!


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> Audio from built in speaks typical of many... adequate but not much bass. as good as most lappys. Hope you get "good one" Taking apart I always break part of a tab so if it works you may want to avoid. I see you tried many, if this does not work maybe look on Alibaba exchange rate maybe better than US, Have Fun!


Yes I know that audio is not great but it is handy sometimes. I will definitely need to take apart because I need to remove that terrible stand leg and put on VESA stand. Hope it is not complicated to open it.

What do you mean to look on Alibaba exchange rate ?


----------



## DiceAir

So I have my qnix hooekd up to my 980ti. So I had to tighten my timings to get my monitor to 110hz thus my gpu doesn't downclock to idle speeds when on desktop so I switch to 60hz when I'm using the desktop to keep my gpu at idle clocks. So now I have a question.

I've been having some weird issues since last week but only happened twice now. Now I played BF4 for about a week since my last occurrence and it was totally fine ever since but today decided to play a bit of BO3 and then I had a black screen after playing for a while. Now the reason for me asking is that i don't know if the qnix can cause that. maybe it causes lost signal.

When I play bf4 I always go to nvidia control panel and set my refresh rate to 110 then launch the game or if I forget to do that then after I launched the game and see my fps only at 60 then activate 110hz. In BO3 I leave my desktop at 60hz and when playing the game it goes to 110hz without the actual desktop being set to 110hz. So maybe it could be the way I run Bo3. The first time i had the issue was when I was playing COD:Ghosts single player. I must admit I have my card slightly overclocked but now running stock. I also did heaven benchmark for 30-40min and it's 100% fine and temps is only 70C max on the core.

So maybe my VRAM is at fault? or do you guys still think it could be the qnix and the way I do the refresh rate when playing bo3 making the gpu not always going to the minimum speed needed for 110hz just for a split second even? what do you guys think?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So I have my qnix hooekd up to my 980ti. So I had to tighten my timings to get my monitor to 110hz thus my gpu doesn't downclock to idle speeds when on desktop so I switch to 60hz when I'm using the desktop to keep my gpu at idle clocks. So now I have a question.
> 
> I've been having some weird issues since last week but only happened twice now. Now I played BF4 for about a week since my last occurrence and it was totally fine ever since but today decided to play a bit of BO3 and then I had a black screen after playing for a while. Now the reason for me asking is that i don't know if the qnix can cause that. maybe it causes lost signal.
> 
> When I play bf4 I always go to nvidia control panel and set my refresh rate to 110 then launch the game or if I forget to do that then after I launched the game and see my fps only at 60 then activate 110hz. In BO3 I leave my desktop at 60hz and when playing the game it goes to 110hz without the actual desktop being set to 110hz. So maybe it could be the way I run Bo3. The first time i had the issue was when I was playing COD:Ghosts single player. I must admit I have my card slightly overclocked but now running stock. I also did heaven benchmark for 30-40min and it's 100% fine and temps is only 70C max on the core.
> 
> So maybe my VRAM is at fault? or do you guys still think it could be the qnix and the way I do the refresh rate when playing bo3 making the gpu not always going to the minimum speed needed for 110hz just for a split second even? what do you guys think?


I know I would have some occasional very hard crashes when my monitor was overclocked. So hard that my PC would not even detect my video cards. I quit overclocking, and it never happened again. I now run with a reduced pixel clock and dont have it anymore either. So yeah it is possible that the OC causes it.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> I know I would have some occasional very hard crashes when my monitor was overclocked. So hard that my PC would not even detect my video cards. I quit overclocking, and it never happened again. I now run with a reduced pixel clock and dont have it anymore either. So yeah it is possible that the OC causes it.


Sorry for the noob question. Are you talking about gpu or monitor overclocking? can you maybe share your settings for your refresh rate please?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Sorry for the noob question. Are you talking about gpu or monitor overclocking? can you maybe share your settings for your refresh rate please?


It was overclocking the monitor. I used to just straight up type 120hz in CRU and be done with it. Now I use the timings from lawson. I think the really high pixel clock wasn't super stable on my rig, and was causing the hard crashes.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> It was overclocking the monitor. I used to just straight up type 120hz in CRU and be done with it. Now I use the timings from lawson. I think the really high pixel clock wasn't super stable on my rig, and was causing the hard crashes.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/


Yes, very likely high pixel clock can be a reason for instability. I just wonder if reduced pixel clock have some negative effects, don't you know ? So with reduced you can run 120Hz 24/7 ?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> It was overclocking the monitor. I used to just straight up type 120hz in CRU and be done with it. Now I use the timings from lawson. I think the really high pixel clock wasn't super stable on my rig, and was causing the hard crashes.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/


cool post but can you suggest me reduced timings for 110hz as my monitor can't reach 120hz?


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Yes, very likely high pixel clock can be a reason for instability. I just wonder if reduced pixel clock have some negative effects, don't you know ? So with reduced you can run 120Hz 24/7 ?


Yeah I run reduced 24/7 with no issues for over a year now. Used to have hard crashes daily at higher pixel clocks.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> cool post but can you suggest me reduced timings for 110hz as my monitor can't reach 120hz?


Maybe ask here:

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Forum-Monitors-Video-Cards

and did you try the 443mhz timings for 110hz on lawsons guide?


----------



## kaiju

Is there a driver for this monitor?

I have it as a Generic PnP Monitor and overclocked to 110hz but when I look for the screen brightness slider in Windows 10, I can't find it.

Perhaps installing a driver would allow me to have a slider, as I want to macro the brightness to my keyboard and mouse.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Is there a driver for this monitor?
> 
> I have it as a Generic PnP Monitor and overclocked to 110hz but when I look for the screen brightness slider in Windows 10, I can't find it.
> 
> Perhaps installing a driver would allow me to have a slider, as I want to macro the brightness to my keyboard and mouse.


Yes, under "Overclocking Guide and Help" in the OP.



You will need to disable driver signature enforcement to get it installed.


----------



## kaiju

That's great, thanks BulletSponge!

I still can't find a screen brightness area in Windows 10 for the QX2710?

Do you guys have the ability to change screen brightness in Windows?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> That's great, thanks BulletSponge!
> 
> I still can't find a screen brightness area in Windows 10 for the QX2710?
> 
> Do you guys have the ability to change screen brightness in Windows?


Try color management in windows. What GPU do you have ? Usualy it's a part of gpu drivers. Btw why don't you use monitor brightness settings? What monitor do you have?


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Try color management in windows. What GPU do you have ? Usualy it's a part of gpu drivers. Btw why don't you use monitor brightness settings? What monitor do you have?


I have a GTX660, when I change the brightness in the desktop colour settings, it just reverts back to the original brightness.

I want to find the Windows brightness settings so I can set them as macros on my mouse.

I have the QX2710 monitor.

Edit: Having researched further, you can't change an external monitors brightness in Windows unless you do some sort of custom modding.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> I have a GTX660, when I change the brightness in the desktop colour settings, it just reverts back to the original brightness.
> 
> I want to find the Windows brightness settings so I can set them as macros on my mouse.
> 
> I have the QX2710 monitor.
> 
> Edit: Having researched further, you can't change an external monitors brightness in Windows unless you do some sort of custom modding.


Well you should always change brightness on monitor not in a software because software brighntness do not dim leds only mess with gamma and color settings. Why do you want to change with software?

Btw do you have single input version? When did you order it and how satisfied you are? Did you try tightened timings to push it harder?


----------



## kaiju

I'm not sure what you mean by single input but yes, I have been using it at 110hz for about two years now. No problems at all, love the thing!


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by single input but yes, I have been using it at 110hz for about two years now. No problems at all, love the thing!


I mean only DVI connection. Multi input panels can not be overclocked so high.


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> I mean only DVI connection. Multi input panels can not be overclocked so high.


Oh, right. Yup, it's just the single DVI input at the back. Are the single slot more reliable when overclocking and are they still available? Perhaps I was lucky getting it early on.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Oh, right. Yup, it's just the single DVI input at the back. Are the single slot more reliable when overclocking and are they still available? Perhaps I was lucky getting it early on.


Yep, they are still available, however, they use newer revision of the panel which actually decreased in quality. Also they use PWM.

I've just bought glossy single input version so I hope it will be a good quality one. 250$ + taxes.

And yes multi input panels can be clockedc max. 85hz or so.


----------



## misiak

So my Qnix is on the way from Korea. Estimated delivery next Monday but hopefully it will arrive sooner


----------



## landon2525

Alright guys i really need some help here. I have a Qnix QX2710 LED. I am having issues with the green lines typically only seen at high refresh rates. I get the green lines when my monitor goes above 45Hz.

I have a MSI GTX 970 GPU.

I have the 24 gage DVI-D cable becaues i thought that might fix my issues, but it does not.

Also the issue occurs in the bios and boot menus as well. It only goes away once my computer boots into Windows 10 and the 45Hz refresh rate is applied.

Here are the photos:

1st a photo taken from my phone:



2nd a screen shot taken from within windows.



Any help would be greatly appreciated on solving this issue. I have spent countless hours trying to figure this problem out.


----------



## Atomagenesis

If it's happening at your BIOS screen and you can't go past 45hz I'd say defective monitor, do you have another monitor to test so you can verify it's not your gpu dying?

Most likely a defective monitor.


----------



## landon2525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> If it's happening at your BIOS screen and you can't go past 45hz I'd say defective monitor, do you have another monitor to test so you can verify it's not your gpu dying?
> 
> Most likely a defective monitor.


I do have another monitor I can try it with.

I also have a friends computer I can hook the qnix up to in order to see if the problem persists.

If it is the monitor, what part of the monitor is defective?

Can I get a replacement for that part cheaply? Or fix it myself?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *landon2525*
> 
> I do have another monitor I can try it with.
> 
> I also have a friends computer I can hook the qnix up to in order to see if the problem persists.
> 
> If it is the monitor, what part of the monitor is defective?
> 
> Can I get a replacement for that part cheaply? Or fix it myself?


How old is your monitor?


----------



## tonyiommi94

I'm having this weird artifacting going on at 120hz in what looks like the greyscale maybe. It only happens of the left side of my screen for maybe an inch. I'm using the tightened timings. I've tried new cables, contact cleaner, and reinstalling drivers. What's weird is if I unplug and plug the cable back in it goes away for a little bit but comes back eventually. Running a 970 currently and overclocking with the NVCP. Any idea what's going on here or any idea if there's anything I can do to get this at 120hz stable somehow? Thanks.


----------



## taveren11

Quote:


> Pixel Defect return policies with paid return shipping are almost never accepted by Korean sellers, just the way it is. They usually only accept paid RMA for major defects like tavern11 above redface.gif
> 
> @tavern11 ... Andr3az gave you the same advice I would, I think it is a connection or faulty PCB. But you might also try a "clean" install with Win7 and Nvidia 353.62 drivers to rule out drivers wink.gif


The seller had me open up my montior and re-seat all connectors - it actually improved things for a bit and then they progressively worsened. The seller then wanted to send me a new PCB for me to install and I declined.

One thing I noticed in my adventure, the panel is not fixed very well within the casing. It will move quite a bit and in my case fall below the bottom bezel which was very annoying.


----------



## Beatwolf

So do I need to debezel or is it possible to just pop a vesa mount stand on the back?


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So do I need to debezel or is it possible to just pop a vesa mount stand on the back?


I took mine apart and screwed it up, will try to fix... But _here are some options_ this is centered around dual mount but single mount arms are linked on store sites
.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> I took mine apart and screwed it up, will try to fix... But _here are some options_ this is centered around dual mount but single mount arms are linked on store sites [AMAZON]?
> [Maybe better approach]
> .


Ou, how did you screw it up? I would like to take apart mine once arrive but I wouldn't like to break it


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> I took mine apart and screwed it up, will try to fix... But _here are some options_ this is centered around dual mount but single mount arms are linked on store sites [AMAZON]?
> [Maybe better approach]
> .


So one _does_ need to debezel it??? btw, the latter two links you posted don't seem to lead where you intended them too...


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So one _does_ need to debezel it??? btw, the latter two links you posted don't seem to lead where you intended them too...


Yes you need to remove the stand leg. There are some videos showing how to do it so it shouldn't be a big problem. I've debezelled my old LG and it was quiet easy once you found out how to do it


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Yes you need to remove the stand leg. There are some videos showing how to do it so it shouldn't be a big problem. I've debezelled my old LG and it was quiet easy once you found out how to do it


Thanks I will try it out soon


----------



## minlillaponny

The joy was short.
Loved my QX2710LED from day one with his 110hz, but this evening i came home and noticed this



It becomes slightly better if i hit it hard from the back right at the spot, but the black "spot" is still noiticeable. If i leave the monitor on with a bright background the monitor starts to flicker, and sometimes the black spot even disappear.
Anyone know if this even is fixable? And has anyone tried to return the monitor? If so, how did it go and did you have to pay for the shipping yourself?

EDIT: I blurred my history for privacy, so it's nothing wrong with that section


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minlillaponny*
> 
> The joy was short.
> Loved my QX2710LED from day one with his 110hz, but this evening i came home and noticed this
> 
> 
> 
> It becomes slightly better if i hit it hard from the back right at the spot, but the black "spot" is still noiticeable. If i leave the monitor on with a bright background the monitor starts to flicker, and sometimes the black spot even disappear.
> Anyone know if this even is fixable? And has anyone tried to return the monitor? If so, how did it go and did you have to pay for the shipping yourself?
> 
> EDIT: I blurred my history for privacy, so it's nothing wrong with that section


Ouch, what happened to him? For how long have you owned it? I'm bit scared mine should arrive next week :-D


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minlillaponny*
> 
> The joy was short.
> Loved my QX2710LED from day one with his 110hz, but this evening i came home and noticed this
> 
> 
> 
> It becomes slightly better if i hit it hard from the back right at the spot, but the black "spot" is still noiticeable. If i leave the monitor on with a bright background the monitor starts to flicker, and sometimes the black spot even disappear.
> Anyone know if this even is fixable? And has anyone tried to return the monitor? If so, how did it go and did you have to pay for the shipping yourself?
> 
> EDIT: I blurred my history for privacy, so it's nothing wrong with that section


This happened to me except on right side, was the backlight connector not seated properly, take back off and rock connector lightly, good idea to check before reassembly


----------



## felicia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Thanks I will try it out soon


Maybe also...
*VESA Mount Adapter*

Decent Stand

Single arm mount

Non VESA mount adapter

VESA Samsung (100mm x 100mm)

Back Plate


----------



## minlillaponny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Ouch, what happened to him? For how long have you owned it? I'm bit scared mine should arrive next week :-D


TBH, i have no idea. Never been dropped and it's out of reach for my kid, and he's old enough now to understand that my computer is a big no no!








I recieved it for 5 month ago so it's not that old.
It's a awesome monitor for the right price, but with this experience i don't know any more.

Gonna give it a try in a couple days and disassembly it to see if there's a easy fix.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felicia*
> 
> This happened to me except on right side, was the backlight connector not seated properly, take back off and rock connector lightly, good idea to check before reassembly


Thanks mate


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minlillaponny*
> 
> TBH, i have no idea. Never been dropped and it's out of reach for my kid, and he's old enough now to understand that my computer is a big no no!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recieved it for 5 month ago so it's not that old.
> It's a awesome monitor for the right price, but with this experience i don't know any more.
> 
> Gonna give it a try in a couple days and disassembly it to see if there's a easy fix.
> Thanks mate


Yes, I just wanted to tell you it looks some backlight issue - the cables may have loosened so hopefully there is a quick fix. 5 months - you should still have a warranty, at least my seller provides one year warranty.

Btw do you have single input glossy or mate version? Do you have latest panel revison L06 ? Is your with PWM? What's bleed and glow on your smple? Is uniformity good ? Thx


----------



## minlillaponny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Yes, I just wanted to tell you it looks some backlight issue - the cables may have loosened so hopefully there is a quick fix. 5 months - you should still have a warranty, at least my seller provides one year warranty.
> 
> Btw do you have single input glossy or mate version? Do you have latest panel revison L06 ? Is your with PWM? What's bleed and glow on your smple? Is uniformity good ? Thx


It was bought from accessorieswhole and the description says QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Panel PC Monitor.
It has a external PWM and one DVI. Correct me if i'm wrong, but thoose with two DVI are not able to overclock?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minlillaponny*
> 
> It was bought from accessorieswhole and the description says QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte] 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Panel PC Monitor.
> It has a external PWM and one DVI. Correct me if i'm wrong, but thoose with two DVI are not able to overclock?


Yes you are right, multi input panels can't be overclocked well. It's possible but only up to appx. 85 hz without artifacting.

So you have same as one I ordered, the only difference is mine is glossy. They should perform the same. How satisfied are you with the panel? Is PWM problematic for you? Mine should artive the next week, I was so discusted from all those 144hznpanels I've tried that I've pulled the triger on this. I have a bad feeling something goes wrong but maybe...







in worst case I will loose 300 eur









Btw, what do you mean by external PWM?


----------



## minlillaponny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Yes you are right, multi input panels can't be overclocked well. It's possible but only up to appx. 85 hz without artifacting.
> 
> So you have same as one I ordered, the only difference is mine is glossy. They should perform the same. How satisfied are you with the panel? Is PWM problematic for you? Mine should artive the next week, I was so discusted from all those 144hznpanels I've tried that I've pulled the triger on this. I have a bad feeling something goes wrong but maybe...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in worst case I will loose 300 eur
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, what do you mean by external PWM?


Sorry. it was a typo from the phone









I am/was very pleased with the monitor. I have had both a BenQ and a Asus 144hz monitor, but damn what a change in colors when it comes to PLS. And i have not even noticed the latency even though i play games every day. Don't know if i was lucky, but the BLB was minimal and i don't know i can get a better monitor for that price.
I started with a AMD card and 98hz was the limit at that point. But when i changed to Nvidia i was able to push to 110hz. I've read that some people have had the same problem with Nvidia, so i can't blame the hardware.

When you say 300 eur, is that with taxes etc?

EDIT: Found it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Its a crapshoot on what a particular card will do with a particular monitor. Some people do fine at 120hz on AMD then switch to nvidia and cant do 120hz and vice versa. heck two pages ago we had a guy who was doing 120hz fine on an old nvidia card, bought a 980ti and now cant do 120hz.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minlillaponny*
> 
> Sorry. it was a typo from the phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am/was very pleased with the monitor. I have had both a BenQ and a Asus 144hz monitor, but damn what a change in colors when it comes to PLS. And i have not even noticed the latency even though i play games every day. Don't know if i was lucky, but the BLB was minimal and i don't know i can get a better monitor for that price.
> I started with a AMD card and 98hz was the limit at that point. But when i changed to Nvidia i was able to push to 110hz. I've read that some people have had the same problem with Nvidia, so i can't blame the hardware.
> 
> When you say 300 eur, is that with taxes etc?
> 
> EDIT: Found it


That's strange with Nvidia cards. However, I'm pretty fine if it clocks to 110Hz









Yes, TN panels can't be compaeed and I don't know if you had 144Hz IPS panel but I had many and all had bad uniformity and sotjer quality issus. It's not worth the price.

Yes, I've meant with taxes of course. Those are 35% + some fee to FedEx







Motitor was 249$ with shipping. Bought from accesorieswhole snt it's actually at custom clearence


----------



## Slickest

I can't get any custom resolutions to show up in my NvCP. Do I have to turn of DSR factors? The only resolution is 60hz, even after installing QNIX drivers from OP. Any suggestions?


----------



## Difenc

Hm, you're in luck. Somehow I got a notification just for your post from a thread I unsubscibed from. Had the same problem, was able to change it through CRU instead : http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/390#post_25031210


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slickest*
> 
> I can't get any custom resolutions to show up in my NvCP. Do I have to turn of DSR factors? The only resolution is 60hz, even after installing QNIX drivers from OP. Any suggestions?


yes, you have to turn off DSR to use custom resolutions for nvidia as far as i can tell.


----------



## Slickest

I think I got it working. I tried to go the driver route, I turned off DSR, created a custom resolution and for some reason it wasn't working right. I was able to use difenc's method, and at first my resolutions were a bit weird and it kept reverting back to 60hz. I turned off DSR, deleted the custom resolution and then used CRU to make a detailed resolution. I turned that on and then enabled DSR. Now my native resolution is at 100hz, and my DSR factors also indicate they are at 100hz as well. I will reboot to make sure everything stays the same.

If anyone has a problem in the future with having DSR on and refresh rates, try this.


----------



## Adam R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JQuantum*
> 
> subbed. Waiting on my monitor almost here.
> 
> I am home now... opened the monitor, zero dead pixels I can find atm, I think the blacklight bleed is very minimal and I've overclocked it straight to 120Hz (after a driver update). Seems to be working so far. xD very very impressed, happy, and relieved that it works so well.
> 
> No modifications yet. PS: 130Hz standard gets some tiny artifacts. Gonna test some more and take some pictures too


Sorry for the trouble but how is your monitor running now? I'm going to buy a Korean monitor. I play pc games and watch movies on the computer. I have i7 2600k and gtx 980 ti.

Which monitor is the best one?

Thanks


----------



## JQuantum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam R*
> 
> Sorry for the trouble but how is your monitor running now? I'm going to buy a Korean monitor. I play pc games and watch movies on the computer. I have i7 2600k and gtx 980 ti.
> 
> Which monitor is the best one?
> 
> Thanks


I wouldn't have ever seen this if you didn't quote me. I sold the monitor to a friend about 4 months ago but he's using it now without problems. The monitor has been consistent for me, it has a weird thing happen though for me overclocking it to 120 Hz on some graphics cards had a darker patch of pixels, but some other ones didn't do it. 96 Hz was fine 110 Hz it was barely noticeable.

I've only ever had the QX2710 and I seemed to be the only one with that happen haha, go figure. Verdict, I'd buy these monitors again assuming it's still much cheaper than to buy a retail new one. Look via the recent posts to find a good seller or known ones.


----------



## Adam R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JQuantum*
> 
> I wouldn't have ever seen this if you didn't quote me. I sold the monitor to a friend about 4 months ago but he's using it now without problems. The monitor has been consistent for me, it has a weird thing happen though for me overclocking it to 120 Hz on some graphics cards had a darker patch of pixels, but some other ones didn't do it. 96 Hz was fine 110 Hz it was barely noticeable.
> 
> I've only ever had the QX2710 and I seemed to be the only one with that happen haha, go figure. Verdict, I'd buy these monitors again assuming it's still much cheaper than to buy a retail new one. Look via the recent posts to find a good seller or known ones.


cool looks like we are both Canadian's







EH!

Bro how does this look to you? it's my first time buying from ebay.ca I don't want to get scammed lol

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?hash=item1e7c39ae25:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e


----------



## JQuantum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam R*
> 
> cool looks like we are both Canadian's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EH!
> 
> Bro how does this look to you? it's my first time buying from ebay.ca I don't want to get scammed lol
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?hash=item1e7c39ae25:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e


Maybe not?
http://120hz.net/showthread.php?531-Ick-AccessoriesWhole-is-handling-my-return-very-badly.

but this guy had good luck with him:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/2830#post_21735900

Just keep searching until you feel comfortable buying it.


----------



## blackhole2013

worst monitor I ever had after a month the side of the screen started flickering so I sold it for a benq bl3200 32 inch monitor and when you open it up you will see real quality plus it can turn to portrait mode .. only thing bad bout my benq i got a stuck pixel it drives me crazy ... I could return it but its so heavy and hard to stick back in the box ... just spend the 400 for the benq


----------



## Andr3az

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> worst monitor I ever had after a month the side of the screen started flickering so I sold it for a benq bl3200 32 inch monitor and when you open it up you will see real quality plus it can turn to portrait mode .. only thing bad bout my benq i got a stuck pixel it drives me crazy ... I could return it but its so heavy and hard to stick back in the box ... just spend the 400 for the benq


Buying this monitor is a lottery. Some won't be so lucky with the monitors.

But If there is no risk, there is no reward.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhole2013*
> 
> worst monitor I ever had after a month the side of the screen started flickering so I sold it for a benq bl3200 32 inch monitor and when you open it up you will see real quality plus it can turn to portrait mode .. only thing bad bout my benq i got a stuck pixel it drives me crazy ... I could return it but its so heavy and hard to stick back in the box ... just spend the 400 for the benq


Mine has been stable as **** for 2+ years, no pixels and almost no backlight bleed.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Mine has been stable as **** for 2+ years, no pixels and almost no backlight bleed.


Hope I will have luck as well, especially after all those strugles with 144Hz AUO craps. Mine is held on customs since Friday :-/


----------



## stump909

Has anyone had any luck outputting with an HDMI 2.0 to DVI-D cable? My mobo only supports 1080p via DVI (2160p via HDMI) and the monitor just displays RGB test panels when I boot.


----------



## misiak

So here a little review of my sample. Few days ago I've received Qnix QX2710 Glossy Samsung PLS single input panel. It cost me 249$ + 20% VAT + some fees so I've paid 276 EUR. I have to say, for this price is it a steal.

*Picture quality:*

I had Eizo 24" 1080p 60Hz EV-2450 panel for 290 EUR and the difference is night and day. This one is even better than DELL 2715H I had before for more than 500 eur.

Glossy version is beautiful, the image is crisp and clear out of the box with only little adjustments. Gama slightly lower than 2.2 but not much. Color accuracy is perfect. Uniformity is fantastic. Finally. Cheaper 1080p panels almost all suffer from bad uniformity, even more expensive ones. Because this is not slim bezel monitor, the image is perfect around bezel as well. Uniformity is far better than fast 144Hz AUO panels. I had 10 of them and all suffered from bad uniformity and some color shift.

*GLOW:*

IPS glow is pure silver slightly visible in bottom corners. Very non-intrusive I must say. Nothing that bad than other AH-VA or AH-IPS panels I saw.

*Build quality, BLB and pixel defect*

BLB could be a problem here. The inner build quality is very poor. Outer frame looks nice but how the panel is fixed to bezel is just ridiculous. There are two metal rails - one on left side and one on right side and the panel sit on them. Those rails are wobbly and not fixed so the panel can move. The panel is also supported by some foam squares. Well, that's very bad and directly related to BLB because position the panel straight is almost impossible. The other bad thing is the panel is no longer placed in metal frame, instead some black plastic tape covers it and if there is a bleed is very hard to fix it.

Stand is very poor and the first thing I recommend is to get rid of it once unpacked. For this you have to dismantle the frame. It's not so difficult to do though. But once you open the monitor you will see the poor assembly immediately.

Mine arrived with some not ver nice bleed top right of the screen and some on the left side. Well, it was not visible in day to day use but in the dark it was pretty noticeable on black backgrounds. So I've played a bit with panel support and use some stickers beneath the bezel to reduce it a bit. It's pretty acceptable for me now. But be aware of this that most probably your monitor will have some BLB.

Thankfully I have no dead pixels but I have one stuck green pixel bottom left. It's visible only on black background if you focus on it so it's not a big deal. For this price again, no complaints.

Everyone should realize that all these are B grade panels rejected by Apple or other companies selling monitors with these panels. So you always need to count with some BLB, dead/stuck pixels or uniformity problems. If you are lucky enough you won't have so many issues.

*OVERCLOCKING:*

Mine is able to overclock to 105Hz with reduced timing and without artefacting or green lines with stock DVI cable. Seems the monitor or DVI cable is limited to pixel clock around 420Mhz. I really like 120Hz but this is not possible unfortunately. Wonder if better cable would allow me to go higher than 420Mhz. Or maybe it's PCB limit, don't know. Maybe you guys with some experiences can help to answer this question ? But at the end, 100Hz is very nice overclock and improvement over 60Hz.

*PWM*

Yes, this monitor has PWM but I must say my eyes can't notice it and have no issue with that. Motion clarity seems to be a bit affected but it's not so bad. But I don't care about this as I use monitor at 100% 24/7. This monitor has around declared 300 cd/m2 which is fine for me. I use ambilight so it's very acceptable.

*Response time and input lag*

It's around declared 8ms. LG panels are slightly faster though. But the difference is negligible. It's not that fast as 144Hz AUO panels but the image quality is from other world.

I think the input lag is not the best here but I can't measure it. I just feel there is more than on some of previous panels I had.

To sum it up, the only thing this monitor is missing is free-sync/g-sync support. But again for this price, you can't have it. Finally it's a keeper and I'm pretty satisfied. Yes, could be better in some aspects but again, the price....

I would recommend to anyone searching for good 1440p overclockable panel.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> So here a little review of my sample. Few days ago I've received Qnix QX2710 Glossy Samsung PLS single input panel. It cost me 249$ + 20% VAT + some fees so I've paid 276 EUR. I have to say, for this price is it a steal.
> 
> *Picture quality:*
> 
> I had Eizo 24" 1080p 60Hz EV-2450 panel for 290 EUR and the difference is night and day. This one is even better than DELL 2715H I had before for more than 500 eur.
> 
> Glossy version is beautiful, the image is crisp and clear out of the box with only little adjustments. Gama slightly lower than 2.2 but not much. Color accuracy is perfect. Uniformity is fantastic. Finally. Cheaper 1080p panels almost all suffer from bad uniformity, even more expensive ones. Because this is not slim bezel monitor, the image is perfect around bezel as well. Uniformity is far better than fast 144Hz AUO panels. I had 10 of them and all suffered from bad uniformity and some color shift.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *GLOW:*
> 
> IPS glow is pure silver slightly visible in bottom corners. Very non-intrusive I must say. Nothing that bad than other AH-VA or AH-IPS panels I saw.
> 
> *Build quality, BLB and pixel defect*
> 
> BLB could be a problem here. The inner build quality is very poor. Outer frame looks nice but how the panel is fixed to bezel is just ridiculous. There are two metal rails - one on left side and one on right side and the panel sit on them. Those rails are wobbly and not fixed so the panel can move. The panel is also supported by some foam squares. Well, that's very bad and directly related to BLB because position the panel straight is almost impossible. The other bad thing is the panel is no longer placed in metal frame, instead some black plastic tape covers it and if there is a bleed is very hard to fix it.
> 
> Stand is very poor and the first thing I recommend is to get rid of it once unpacked. For this you have to dismantle the frame. It's not so difficult to do though. But once you open the monitor you will see the poor assembly immediately.
> 
> Mine arrived with some not ver nice bleed top right of the screen and some on the left side. Well, it was not visible in day to day use but in the dark it was pretty noticeable on black backgrounds. So I've played a bit with panel support and use some stickers beneath the bezel to reduce it a bit. It's pretty acceptable for me now. But be aware of this that most probably your monitor will have some BLB.
> 
> Thankfully I have no dead pixels but I have one stuck green pixel bottom left. It's visible only on black background if you focus on it so it's not a big deal. For this price again, no complaints.
> 
> Everyone should realize that all these are B grade panels rejected by Apple or other companies selling monitors with these panels. So you always need to count with some BLB, dead/stuck pixels or uniformity problems. If you are lucky enough you won't have so many issues.
> 
> *OVERCLOCKING:*
> 
> Mine is able to overclock to 105Hz with reduced timing and without artefacting or green lines with stock DVI cable. Seems the monitor or DVI cable is limited to pixel clock around 420Mhz. I really like 120Hz but this is not possible unfortunately. Wonder if better cable would allow me to go higher than 420Mhz. Or maybe it's PCB limit, don't know. Maybe you guys with some experiences can help to answer this question ? But at the end, 100Hz is very nice overclock and improvement over 60Hz.
> 
> *PWM*
> 
> Yes, this monitor has PWM but I must say my eyes can't notice it and have no issue with that. Motion clarity seems to be a bit affected but it's not so bad. But I don't care about this as I use monitor at 100% 24/7. This monitor has around declared 300 cd/m2 which is fine for me. I use ambilight so it's very acceptable.
> 
> *Response time and input lag*
> 
> It's around declared 8ms. LG panels are slightly faster though. But the difference is negligible. It's not that fast as 144Hz AUO panels but the image quality is from other world.
> 
> I think the input lag is not the best here but I can't measure it. I just feel there is more than on some of previous panels I had.
> 
> 
> To sum it up, the only thing this monitor is missing is free-sync/g-sync support. But again for this price, you can't have it. Finally it's a keeper and I'm pretty satisfied. Yes, could be better in some aspects but again, the price....
> 
> I would recommend to anyone searching for good 1440p overclockable panel.


Very Nice, Honest Review ... +R









It is astounding how much better the Picture Quality is when comparing side by side to the AUO/IPS 144Hz panels!








I directly compared 3 different PG279Q's, what a piece of JUNK for appx $800!









Your not going to see a big improvement, if any with perceived higher quality (thicker) cables. Over the years the best we've seen is 3-5Hz and that usually came from a shorter (3') cable. I tried a few aftermarket cables and I'm running stock with both my monitors. I can't confirm this but I think Kepler GPU's clocked these panels higher (5-10Hz) than Maxwell, but that could be a driver/OS thing too.

Glad this worked for you at a reasonable price until they come along with a True Pro Gaming panel in a Glossy option!!!


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Very Nice, Honest Review ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is astounding how much better the Picture Quality is when comparing side by side to the AUO/IPS 144Hz panels!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I directly compared 3 different PG279Q's, what a piece of JUNK for appx $800!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your not going to see a big improvement, if any with perceived higher quality (thicker) cables. Over the years the best we've seen is 3-5Hz and that usually came from a shorter (3') cable. I tried a few aftermarket cables and I'm running stock with both my monitors. I can't confirm this but I think Kepler GPU's clocked these panels higher (5-10Hz) than Maxwell, but that could be a driver/OS thing too.
> 
> Glad this worked for you at a reasonable price until they come along with a True Pro Gaming panel in a Glossy option!!!


Thanks mate







I was pretty sceptic when ordering this one as I couldn't believe it could be so good for this price. But hell, it is. I had 10 AUO 144+ panels (XB270HU, XB271HU and PG279Q) and the image quality can't be compared. This Qnix blows them out of the water. And they cost 750+ eur. It's just ridiculous and people still buy them. Every single piece had bad uniformity it was either top darker then bottom, or some yellowish/reddish tint on some parts of the screen and well - the white was not white at all. If you were lucky you had not yellowish screen but we can't tell about white at all









Thx for OC advice. Seems 105, maybe I could get 108Hz max. is the limit of PCB. But yes, I have GTX980Ti and also read somewhere that users had to reduce refresh rate on these because of the card. So who knows.

And yeah, I'm exactly waiting for this as well. For such great price we have very good monitor and we can peacefully wait until something real come up for our enthusiasts. I need monitor also for work and I cannot stand the poor uniformity and other issues of those fast gaming AUO panels but at the other hand I want to have fast refresh rate and I love g-sync. But for the moment we can't have both because it does not exist. I feel a bit sorry now for those guys buying 100Hz ultrawides for 1400$. I was thinking to buy one as well but the price was so ridiculous... Good I've decided to try this one.
Btw, do you know if it is safe to run 105Hz 24/7 ?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Btw, do you know if it is safe to run 105Hz 24/7 ?


probably, just keep an eye on how hot the power brick gets. Mine failed after a year and a half and had to be replaced. The original would get freakishly hot at anything over 96Hz although your experience may very well differ from mine. My QNIX has been rock solid at 96Hz since I purchased it 2 years ago.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> probably, just keep an eye on how hot the power brick gets. Mine failed after a year and a half and had to be replaced. The original would get freakishly hot at anything over 96Hz although your experience may very well differ from mine. My QNIX has been rock solid at 96Hz since I purchased it 2 years ago.


Thx for advice, I will keep an eye on it. Btw, what's max. overclock on your panel ?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Thx for advice, I will keep an eye on it. Btw, what's max. overclock on your panel ?


I have never tried higher than 110, but it was artifact free at that refresh rate. 96 is as high as I am comfortable with 24/7 due to the first power supply getting so hot and eventually failing. The replacement I purchased is noticeably cooler than the original (but even it does get warm at 96).


----------



## Zen00

So I set a 96 and a 110 Hz profile with CRT on my Qnix monitor, but for some reason when I go to the UFO screen test while using these profiles it claims that I'm at 120 Hz. Anyone know what's up with this?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> So I set a 96 and a 110 Hz profile with CRT on my Qnix monitor, but for some reason when I go to the UFO screen test while using these profiles it claims that I'm at 120 Hz. Anyone know what's up with this?


That's strange. Did you noticed frame skipping ? Btw what GPU do you have and which Qnix version ? Are you on supplied DVI cable ? Glossy or Mate ?

Btw, CRT profile at 110Hz is giving pixel clock 600Mhz and it's far above limit. Are you sure you are using this settings ?


----------



## fatalfable

sorry for the noobish question but i am on the latest amd drivers and cant seem to overclock my monitor. things were fine until some of the most recent updates installed. now when i overclock it says i have 110hz both in cru and in amd settings, but my monitors refresh rate doesnt actually change. im using what i think are the latest versions of cru and the patcher. any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatalfable*
> 
> sorry for the noobish question but i am on the latest amd drivers and cant seem to overclock my monitor. things were fine until some of the most recent updates installed. now when i overclock it says i have 110hz both in cru and in amd settings, but my monitors refresh rate doesnt actually change. im using what i think are the latest versions of cru and the patcher. any help would be greatly appreciated.


ATI Pixel Patcher. Latest.


----------



## fatalfable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> ATI Pixel Patcher. Latest.


thats what ive been using. pretty much following the overclocking instructions exactly. i set everything up and it says my refresh rate is at 110 or 96 or whatever i set it to, but it never actually changes from 60.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatalfable*
> 
> thats what ive been using. pretty much following the overclocking instructions exactly. i set everything up and it says my refresh rate is at 110 or 96 or whatever i set it to, but it never actually changes from 60.


reset.reinstall amd driver and patch again. make sure you select the to correct display in cru


----------



## axydas

Hello

I received the X-Star DP2710 yesterday, but having some issues.

When I connect the monitor start giving flashes of separate bright colors; green, red, blue, white and black. I used the supplied DVI-D cable. My pc is a brand new i5 but without a VGA card. I am using the on-board graphic card of my Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H. The on-board graphic card is the intel HD4600 and it supports DVI-D.

Is this a familiar issue? Am I doing something wrong?

Please advice....


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axydas*
> 
> Hello
> When I connect the monitor start giving flashes of separate bright colors; green, red, blue, white and black. I used the supplied DVI-D cable. My pc is a brand new i5 but without a VGA card. I am using the on-board graphic card of my Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H. The on-board graphic card is the intel HD4600 and it supports DVI-D.


Intel onboard graphics does not support dual-link DVI.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatalfable*
> 
> thats what ive been using. pretty much following the overclocking instructions exactly. i set everything up and it says my refresh rate is at 110 or 96 or whatever i set it to, but it never actually changes from 60.


What do you mean when you say it never actually changes from 60? Did you set the refresh rate in the Windows display settings? How do you know it's not changing?


----------



## fatalfable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> What do you mean when you say it never actually changes from 60? Did you set the refresh rate in the Windows display settings? How do you know it's not changing?


ill put my steps.

1. install patcher. the version im using is 1.3.6 which is the latest at the time of downloading

2. open cru 1.2.6 and add a resolution. set it to 96 hertz as an example.

3. restart

4. check amd radeon settings and see what my current refresh rate is. says 96 hertz in this example. so the computer is telling me im at 96.

5. computer is clearly still at 60. just by eyeballing it i can feel its not 96 (or 110). checking various framerate tests (ufo tester or things like that) shows 60 fps.

and thats pretty much what happens. says im running a higher rate than i am. i have not reinstalled my amd drivers yet as i havent had time but will do it today and see if that helps.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatalfable*
> 
> ill put my steps.
> 
> 1. install patcher. the version im using is 1.3.6 which is the latest at the time of downloading
> 
> 2. open cru 1.2.6 and add a resolution. set it to 96 hertz as an example.
> 
> 3. restart
> 
> 4. check amd radeon settings and see what my current refresh rate is. says 96 hertz in this example. so the computer is telling me im at 96.
> 
> 5. computer is clearly still at 60. just by eyeballing it i can feel its not 96 (or 110). checking various framerate tests (ufo tester or things like that) shows 60 fps.
> 
> and thats pretty much what happens. says im running a higher rate than i am. i have not reinstalled my amd drivers yet as i havent had time but will do it today and see if that helps.


You aren't changing display preferences to 96hz in Windows as well?


----------



## fatalfable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> You aren't changing display preferences to 96hz in Windows as well?


no im not since i never had to before. but ill give it a shot and see if that works

EDIT: that worked!!! thank you!. sorry it was so obvious its just ive never actually had to do that part before.


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatalfable*
> 
> no im not since i never had to before. but ill give it a shot and see if that works
> 
> EDIT: that worked!!! thank you!. sorry it was so obvious its just ive never actually had to do that part before.


I've taken to deleting the 60Hz profile from CRU so I don't have to worry about it reverting.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatalfable*
> 
> no im not since i never had to before. but ill give it a shot and see if that works
> 
> EDIT: that worked!!! thank you!. sorry it was so obvious its just ive never actually had to do that part before.


----------



## JasonS

Today my QX320QHD seems to have died after having it since Jan of 2015.

The screen is blank, no desktop no menus work.

When I turn it off and turn it back on I see my desktop for a split second then it goes blank. I can do that over and over but it always goes blank after a split second.

I also hear a slight humming noise coming from it now.

I was using the hdmi input but when no input hooked up also get no menu to work on the screen.

I emailed the ebay seller hoping I can get an exchange or something but my hopes are not too high on that.

Any ideas what is causing the problem, is the monitor now a paper weight?

Was really happy with the monitor until tonight









Also I did 0 overclocking on this monitor, was at 59Hz


----------



## PugDog

Hi everyone









After reading around this thread i decided to order a Perfect Pixel QX2710 Glossy from newegg.

when i first set it up the panel was quite crooked , and there seems to be some kind of discoloration along the bottom edge of the screen, looks yellowish on a white screen.


so i popped off the plastic and reseated the panel onto the metal tabs, and now everything is perfectly aligned









Unfortunately there is still that weird discoloration towards the bottom :/



Does anyone have an advice as to what my next course of action should be? I really appreciate it


----------



## Methadras

Hey guys. Has anyone tried to hook up the QX2710 to a Dell M2800 with an AMD 8790M? I've tried it and it doesn't work and it's really annoying and wondering if I'm missing something. I've done it with both DVI-D to DVI-D and a DVI-D to DisplayPort and nothing. Setting the resolution sees it as a dual-link monitor, but it won't fire it up at all. Any protips?


----------



## PugDog

lol 2500 pages of people getting helped and thread dies as soon as mine comes in lol.... the activity of this thread was one of the main reasons i went down this route, was looking forward to some feedback in the event of a problem. i guess in 2016 the qx2710 Owners Club is losing a bit of its zeal haha









anyways, this has been quite a learning experience, and the vast majority of my learning has come from reading this thread


----------



## andy4theherd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PugDog*
> 
> lol 2500 pages of people getting helped and thread dies as soon as mine comes in lol.... the activity of this thread was one of the main reasons i went down this route, was looking forward to some feedback in the event of a problem. i guess in 2016 the qx2710 Owners Club is losing a bit of its zeal haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyways, this has been quite a learning experience, and the vast majority of my learning has come from reading this thread


contact Newegg

either accept a discount and keep it or exchange for a new one. looks like it was damaged in shipping.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PugDog*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After reading around this thread i decided to order a Perfect Pixel QX2710 Glossy from newegg.
> 
> when i first set it up the panel was quite crooked , and there seems to be some kind of discoloration along the bottom edge of the screen, looks yellowish on a white screen.
> 
> 
> so i popped off the plastic and reseated the panel onto the metal tabs, and now everything is perfectly aligned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately there is still that weird discoloration towards the bottom :/
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have an advice as to what my next course of action should be? I really appreciate it


It's faulty, return it where you bought it for exchange. I have nothing like that on mine... I would answer you sooner but I did not get notification









Btw, nice PWM









Now you can see how pixel perfect is useless. I think nobody check this monitor for bad pixels because he couldn't overlook something like this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andy4theherd*
> 
> contact Newegg
> 
> either accept a discount and keep it or exchange for a new one. looks like it was damaged in shipping.


Keep for a discount? You must be kidding


----------



## Agenesis

It's been about 6 months since I did my last calibration and decided to run one last night. Took about 11 hours.
10 clicks of brightness for those interested.

110hz120cdm210clicks.zip 1394k .zip file



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## PugDog

I very much appreciate the feedback my friends









lol yeah i finally busted out my SLR for some better pics to use in negotiating with the seller , and newegg if things dont go well.

here is a pic without the PWM


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> It's been about 6 months since I did my last calibration and decided to run one last night. Took about 11 hours.
> 10 clicks of brightness for those interested.
> 
> 110hz120cdm210clicks.zip 1394k .zip file
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, can you attach calibration report? Do you have older panel revision?


----------



## Carpeggio

I'm trying to signup for this club, so I can have access to monitor.inf files. I'd like to grab the EDID for the QNIX 2710 Evolution II PLS. Does anyone know where I can signup or grab these files?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carpeggio*
> 
> I'm trying to signup for this club, so I can have access to monitor.inf files. I'd like to grab the EDID for the QNIX 2710 Evolution II PLS. Does anyone know where I can signup or grab these files?


A link is in the OP, under "Overclocking Guide and Help".


----------



## Carpeggio

It says the sign up form has crashed.


----------



## N3RORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carpeggio*
> 
> It says the sign up form has crashed.


Here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club tested and work.


----------



## rjeftw

Here's a question, I remember right about the time I stopped following this thread a long while back, I saw the newer ones all seemed to have PWM is this still the case with the ones most recently purchased? Was debating on picking up another one or trying out some Gsync monitors. Not sure I trust the 144hz gsync monitors QC seems to just be awful.

Also what ebay vendor is everyone buying from now, I bought my original XSTAR from Dreamseller.


----------



## Carpeggio

Thank you for the link. I'm caught up now.

I also just wanted to put some information I've accumulated from the past week of research;

I have an iGPU (HD530/integrated graphics) that initially failed to work with this monitor. Seemingly pretty common. I suspect some people are not able to solve this issue, as they soon install a GPU anyways. But...

If anyone is in the same boat and wants to get the monitor to work with their iGPU in the interim, then look at my posts on this Intel forum.

https://communities.intel.com/message/393240#393240

I have managed to get the HD530 to output on a DVI-D output to this monitor, [email protected] I reference posts on this thread, the QNIX club thread, and various forums around. So if it's not a good tutorial (it might not be lol) it at least could be good for links to other resources.

For brevity here is a list of URL's that will link to everything I used to get it working, ordered by relevancy/importance;

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/947830-custom-resolution-tool-intel-graphics-easier-overscan-correction.html
https://software.intel.com/en-us/forums/user-community-for-visual-computing/topic/303998
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/success-2560x1440-support-on-new-vpc-z2-dell-u2711.602724/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/980#post_19851324
http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/moninfo.shtm


----------



## indy14

Hi. Just brought a Qnix 2710 monitor (my first IPS panel).

I've been comparing it side-by-side with the ASUS PG278Q (TN Panel) and i seem to like the ASUS better.

What's wrong with me?

Test: Watching 4K cliff jumps (at 1440p): 




I feel like i can see more details in the blacks on the TN, whereas on the IPS it's just blackness...

Is this an issue with IPS screens? Aren't they supposed to have better colors? Or is the ASUS TN just much better?

Chur


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indy14*
> 
> Hi. Just brought a Qnix 2710 monitor (my first IPS panel).
> 
> I've been comparing it side-by-side with the ASUS PG278Q (TN Panel) and i seem to like the ASUS better.
> 
> What's wrong with me?
> 
> Test: Watching 4K cliff jumps (at 1440p):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like i can see more details in the blacks on the TN, whereas on the IPS it's just blackness...
> 
> Is this an issue with IPS screens? Aren't they supposed to have better colors? Or is the ASUS TN just much better?
> 
> Chur


Check calibration and your gama settings. Could by way off. IPS have of course much better image quality than TN and this Qnix is fantastic.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indy14*
> 
> Hi. Just brought a Qnix 2710 monitor (my first IPS panel).
> 
> I've been comparing it side-by-side with the ASUS PG278Q (TN Panel) and i seem to like the ASUS better.
> 
> What's wrong with me?
> 
> Test: Watching 4K cliff jumps (at 1440p):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like i can see more details in the blacks on the TN, whereas on the IPS it's just blackness...
> 
> Is this an issue with IPS screens? Aren't they supposed to have better colors? Or is the ASUS TN just much better?
> 
> Chur


There are differences between old and new Qnixs, namely panel switching (L02 vs L07), worse build quality, PWM, etc . Many people miss that due to the size of this thread and which the OP hasnt updated. Qnix was a great monitor to buy 2 or 3 years ago. What you buy today is a POS in comparison.

Differences explained:


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> There are differences between old and new Qnixs, namely panel switching (L02 vs L07), worse build quality, PWM, etc . Many people miss that due to the size of this thread and which the OP hasnt updated. Qnix was a great monitor to buy 2 or 3 years ago. What you buy today is a POS in comparison.
> 
> Differences explained:


That's right but it's not truth Qnix now is a crap. It is still great panel and PWM is not a big issue - at least for me. If you have monitor at 100% brightness then there is no PWM. Gama is slightly higher out of the box (2.1) but this can be easily calibrated and then overal brightness is around 250cm/m2 which is perfect for me 24/7 with some ambient lighting in the evening. The new version has very sily LCD assembly where there is no metal frame but some plastics hold it together so this can be prone to BLB. I had to adjust it a bit because I had some BLB in top right corner. So yes, quality went down but as well the price and for 250$ it is still outstanding panel. And I'm very critic to LCD these days. All brand went down with quality, not only Qnix.


----------



## Goofb4ll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> There are differences between old and new Qnixs, namely panel switching (L02 vs L07), worse build quality, PWM, etc . Many people miss that due to the size of this thread and which the OP hasnt updated. Qnix was a great monitor to buy 2 or 3 years ago. What you buy today is a POS in comparison.
> 
> Differences explained:


Hi!

So which one is now recommended?

Or are the Korean monitors not really recommended anymore? So no X-Star, Qnix etc etc.

Which panel in the $250 to $300 range is now the one to get then?
Sorry for all the questions.

Oh and where do you see the Panle L06 or L07? How to identify this?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofb4ll*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> So which one is now recommended?
> 
> Or are the Korean monitors not really recommended anymore? So no X-Star, Qnix etc etc.
> 
> Which panel in the $250 to $300 range is now the one to get then?
> Sorry for all the questions.
> 
> Oh and where do you see the Panle L06 or L07? How to identify this?


It is L02 and L07. No way how you can find it without disassembly. But you can't buy L02 revision anymore. This is out of stock. Only L07 are available. These have PWM but it's the only difference.

If you can't stand PWM you can still buy Crossover.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Only L07 are available. These have PWM but it's the only difference.


The L07 has a smaller color space (less accurate and vibrant colors), no gamma shift when overclocked and lower preset gamma than the glossy 02.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goofb4ll*
> 
> Which panel in the $250 to $300 range is now the one to get then?


Crossover 2795 QHD or Qnix QX2710 *Multi Hot*. The Multi Hot only overclocks to 87hz, but it has a menu with color controls, better colors than the 2795 QHD and HDMI. Buying a PLS Qnix/X-Star with PWM is pointless since it ruins motion clarity and largely negates the point of overclocking.


----------



## Goofb4ll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The L07 has a smaller color space (less accurate and vibrant colors), no gamma shift when overclocked and lower preset gamma than the glossy 02.
> Crossover 2795 QHD or Qnix QX2710 *Multi Hot*. The Multi Hot only overclocks to 87hz, but it has a menu with color controls, better colors than the 2795 QHD and HDMI. Buying a PLS Qnix/X-Star with PWM is pointless since it ruins motion clarity and largely negates the point of overclocking.


Thank you so much for your reply and advice. Will look into those.


----------



## nebula77

Hi, i'm new here..i signed up because i need some help in making a decision on which model to buy.
I was planning to get the Perfect Pixel QNIX QX2414 DVI only model..i tried buying it from 2 different places but they told me they had some issues with that model and they can offer the multi version at no extra cost.

Here's what i'm worried about. I did some research online and read that the DVI only model is better as far as input lag and OC. and input lag is specially very important to me and the reason i was planning to buy that particular model because i play fps games. Can someone tell me if there's any noticeable difference between the 2 models (the DVI only vs multi)

and how does the input lag compare to the Asus vg248qe and the Benq xl2411z

Oh, and i already do have an IPS monitor so not planning to get the 1440p one..just looking into the 144hz monitors
So again i would to know if there's any difference between the Qnix qx2414 dvi only vs the multi as far as input lag and OC.
Thanks in advance


----------



## SeawolfX13

I just received my QNIX tonight (QX2710LED) http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I really dig the monitor, but im slightly disappointed by the backlight bleed

I suppose the picture makes it look slightly worse, but it's still decently bad

I've read numerous different methods of trying to fix different black light bleeds.

I would really appreciate some advice on where to start, before I start taking apart my monitor.


----------



## Andr3az

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeawolfX13*
> 
> I just received my QNIX tonight (QX2710LED) http://www.ebay.com/itm/140934439651?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> I really dig the monitor, but im slightly disappointed by the backlight bleed
> 
> I suppose the picture makes it look slightly worse, but it's still decently bad
> 
> I've read numerous different methods of trying to fix different black light bleeds.
> 
> I would really appreciate some advice on where to start, before I start taking apart my monitor.


I would search for the BLB fix post and then open up my monitor. Thats pretty bad blb


----------



## nebula77

Can someone help please, I need to make a decision fast and i would like to know if there's any noticeable difference between the DVI only and the multi version of the Qnix qx2414 as far input lag and OC

This is what i was originally planning to buy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2414-Real-144Hz-24-LED-1920x1080-Full-HD-FPS-PC-Monitor-/121696946784?hash=item1c55b40a60:g:dwAAAOSwPcVVmj5j

They said they don't have it anymore and offering this one for the same price:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2414-144Hz-MULTI-24-LED-1920x1080-FPS-Game-Mode-PC-Monitor-/400951959962?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

There's also this model which i just saw now on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-QNIX-QX2414-LED-144-MULTI-HOT-24-1920x1080-Full-HD-Monitor-/141874453928?hash=item2108605da8:g:lfgAAOSwpRRWnuEv

Please tell me which is the best version to get. Like i said i'm playing fps games and want the model with least amount of input lag


----------



## ShadowGanon

I just got myself one of these beauties, and was able to crank it up to 110mhz, but after doing so I have now lost the ability to watch Netflx, Hulu, Vudu, or any other movie sight. When I start up a video from one of those sights my monitor goes to white noise, even if I am playing the video on another screen. I checked my Nvidia control panel and it still says that I am HDCP capable. I have been trying to see if some one else brought this up but have not found anything. So I am hoping that some one else would know what was going on and point me to the right direction to fix it.


----------



## landon2525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> How old is your monitor?


I've had it since December and the issue started a few weeks after I started using it. It was a gift. Sorry it took me so long to reply. I just finished my last semester of undergraduate studies and classes were hectic over the last few months to say the least.


----------



## Nizzen

Is there any new generation Qnix? I bought Qnix 27 1440p some years ago. Best prize/performance monitor I've ever got. 120hz on that monitor was great!

Cheap Qnix ultrawide g-sync anyone?


----------



## Ripple13

Every time I update my nvidia drivers, my qnix monitor driver is restored to the default non-pnp driver and the overclock is rolled back from 96hz to 60hz. Is there any way to prevent this from happening? I end up having to manually restore the drivers and overclock after every update.


----------



## misiak

Does anyone know how to make this thing running on Intel HD4600 graphics ? If I connect it I can see blue diode on but no image. I can't see even boot screen. Thx for any advice.


----------



## angelnieves

After maybe about a good 2-3yrs my monitor finally seemed to die on me. It powers on but does not receive a video signal from video card.


----------



## kenshinsars

Anyone know where I can get a replacement PCB for this POS X-Star DP2710 ? Mine seems to have gone bad after not but 2months. Once the power-cord makes initial contact with the monitor my screen comes up and I can see my desktop, but then it will immediately go black and into like a sleep-mode, power light starts flashing, can only get a picture when the power first makes contact with the PCB then goes black again and into the sleep-mode, plugging the cord in all the way does nothing.


----------



## kenshinsars

Took it apart hoping I could fix it, got it working, but now I got this on my screen and cannot seem to get rid of it. Am so pissed off right now, have taken it back apart and back together again numerous times to no avail, display frame is straight.. so at this point, no PCB replacement is gonna help me, this thing is toast. No more Korean **** for this kid, the old adages "if it seems to good to be true.. " or "you get what you pay for" seem to hold true


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get a replacement PCB for this POS X-Star DP2710 ? Mine seems to have gone bad after not but 2months. Once the power-cord makes initial contact with the monitor my screen comes up and I can see my desktop, but then it will immediately go black and into like a sleep-mode, power light starts flashing, can only get a picture when the power first makes contact with the PCB then goes black again and into the sleep-mode, plugging the cord in all the way does nothing.


PM'd you.


----------



## kenshinsars

got your message, got the monitor working after taking it apart, but in my latest post above, you can see I ended up with a big blotch on my screen, and cannot seem to get rid of it, so a PCB replacement at this point I dont think will fix that issue, think Im just going to set this monitor aside for emergencys and get a new monitor, thanks anyways though


----------



## Forceman

I had one do that, I think it's either a burned out LED there, or maybe just a loose connection. Have you checked the light strip?


----------



## kenshinsars

Dont think its burned out, it was fine before I took the monitor apart to try n fix the power-cord issue, and once I put it back together this is what came up. Not sure what a "light-strip" is or where it is located on this monitor as I have never take one apart, I know it has 3 different connections going to the display itself internally, though not sure what each one is or does, Ive taken it back apart and disconnected and reconnected those connections several time to no avail.


----------



## willyum32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> There are differences between old and new Qnixs, namely panel switching (L02 vs L07), worse build quality, PWM, etc . Many people miss that due to the size of this thread and which the OP hasnt updated. Qnix was a great monitor to buy 2 or 3 years ago. What you buy today is a POS in comparison.
> 
> Differences explained:


Is there a way to figure out if yours is "old"or "new"?


----------



## panosxidis

i can lightboost for my qnix qx2710??or not?


----------



## MillerLite1314

Looking into getting a qx2710. Shouldn't have a problem with my Strix GTX 980?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willyum32*
> 
> Is there a way to figure out if yours is "old"or "new"?


You would need to disassemble the monitor. Actually there are only monitors with newer panel out there. But despite the facts blued mentioned this is still a great monitor for its price. PWM can be completely disabled if you keep brightness at 100% but even with PWM enabled I had no issues. Build quality sucks but it was not perfect on the original panel as well. But BLB is harder to fix now, that's truth. But image quality is still perfect with a little of tweaking. And good to mention price is much lower than price of L02 panels....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panosxidis*
> 
> i can lightboost for my qnix qx2710??or not?


No.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> Looking into getting a qx2710. Shouldn't have a problem with my Strix GTX 980?


No.


----------



## panosxidis

lawson67 man give me 4K settings ON CRU i have AMD thank you


----------



## panosxidis

i can on CRU change to 3840x2160 but i have problem why?see my picture


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panosxidis*
> 
> i can on CRU change to 3840x2160 but i have problem why?see my picture


----------



## panosxidis

what?lawson67 do this


----------



## HyeVltg3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-Perfect-Pixel-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-Matte-27-QHD-Monitor-/121311452342?hash=item1c3eb9dcb6
I just bought this after hearing about the 120Hz OC-able part....

did I goof?
After finding this thread, I realized that I may have bought one that can only go up to 85?
or is that the old True10 model...?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-Perfect-Pixel-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-Matte-27-QHD-Monitor-/121311452342?hash=item1c3eb9dcb6
> I just bought this after hearing about the 120Hz OC-able part....
> 
> did I goof?
> After finding this thread, I realized that I may have bought one that can only go up to 85?
> or is that the old True10 model...?


If your looking for 96Hz-120Hz? ... Yes you goofed









Kinda falls into the same category as the "older" True10 ... info *HERE* ...

*BUT!!!* ... all is not lost as it seems to be a decent monitor with no PWM diming!









MenacingTuba has some Pro comments *HERE*









And from looking at the specs, I think your version is the same as the newer "Multi Hot"


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> If your looking for 96Hz-120Hz? ... Yes you goofed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda falls into the same category as the "older" True10 ... info *HERE* ...
> 
> *BUT!!!* ... all is not lost as it seems to be a decent monitor with no PWM diming!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MenacingTuba has some Pro comments *HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And from looking at the specs, I think your version is the same as the newer "Multi Hot"


Thanks for the quick reply, I already went ahead and requested a cancel. getting this one instead. (please tell me, I dun good?!)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111482849722?hash=item19f4e549ba:g:U-MAAMXQ-3NRmyzN

Just a quick Q.

When they say Glossy or Matte in the title, are they talking about the bezel or the screen's...screen. ?


----------



## MillerLite1314

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Pulled the trigger. Now I just have to find a way to be patient for the next few days. Thinking of buying one for a close friend who helped me out of a tight spot this past fall.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply, I already went ahead and requested a cancel. getting this one instead. (please tell me, I dun good?!)
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-PLS-PC-Monitor-/111482849722?hash=item19f4e549ba:g:U-MAAMXQ-3NRmyzN
> 
> Just a quick Q.
> 
> When they say Glossy or Matte in the title, are they talking about the bezel or the screen's...screen. ?


Sorry I couldn't follow up sooner ... When the Koreans put "Glossy" in the ebay title they are talking about the screen. There was confusion in the past (2+yrs ago) but this very thread set them straight!









For overclocking you have "dun" good! BUT ... there is the matter of PWM diming on the newer L07 panels ... for some, NO BIG DEAL (ie. Misiak) ... for others like me, it is ... some comments *HERE* ...









Hope that helps you with your decision(s)


----------



## MillerLite1314

Has anyone gotten a message from accesorieswhole on ebay requesting the phone number delivery?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> Has anyone gotten a message from accesorieswhole on ebay requesting the phone number delivery?


Actually bought the monitor in my posts above from them, and no they didnt ask about needing any phone number. are you paying via Paypal or CC through Paypal?


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Actually bought the monitor in my posts above from them, and no they didnt ask about needing any phone number. are you paying via Paypal or CC through Paypal?


PayPal credit but they specified delivery. I bought two in total. One for me and one for a close friend from the service who lives in BFE Colorado.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Sorry I couldn't follow up sooner ... When the Koreans put "Glossy" in the ebay title they are talking about the screen. There was confusion in the past (2+yrs ago) but this very thread set them straight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For overclocking you have "dun" good! BUT ... there is the matter of PWM diming on the newer L07 panels ... for some, NO BIG DEAL (ie. Misiak) ... for others like me, it is ... some comments *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps you with your decision(s)


Sorry tomcat, I'm not sure I follow. is the PWM factor ...a bad thing. like I googled it "Pulse Wave Modulation" from what I understand ....does that mean the screen will flicker or because of the high hertz, the screen will go dim? (less power to the leds) mainly what I'm asking is, will the average user notice the "problem" or only a ....videophile.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> PayPal credit but they specified delivery. I bought two in total. One for me and one for a close friend from the service who lives in BFE Colorado.


You can also ask why they need the phone number, could be incase your credit card gets declined or anything of that fraudulent matter, you need to understand that scamming does happen and its not you, but as long as >1% of people scam, they're going to be (they are allowed to be) skeptical of everyone.


----------



## MillerLite1314

I see


----------



## HyeVltg3

Just a quick Q, Customs.

Seeing as how the monitor is shipped from Korea, did any US residents have to pay brokerage fees at your doors? (I'm Canadian, but if you guys had to pay, so will I)
I've ordered countless times from china and Japan and rarely ever paid customs. luck or thats how its supposed to be, I dont know.


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Sorry tomcat, I'm not sure I follow. is the PWM factor ...a bad thing. like I googled it "Pulse Wave Modulation" from what I understand ....does that mean the screen will flicker or because of the high hertz, the screen will go dim? (less power to the leds) mainly what I'm asking is, will the average user notice the "problem" or only a ....videophile.


It's really an individual (person) thing. Some folks notice it to the point that it drives them to distraction or even causes headaches. Others don't notice it at all. I suspect it has to do with how the person is wired, so to speak...


----------



## Tgrove

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Just a quick Q, Customs.
> 
> Seeing as how the monitor is shipped from Korea, did any US residents have to pay brokerage fees at your doors? (I'm Canadian, but if you guys had to pay, so will I)
> I've ordered countless times from china and Japan and rarely ever paid customs. luck or thats how its supposed to be, I dont know.


Nope it been completly free shipping for me in the states


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Sorry I couldn't follow up sooner ... When the Koreans put "Glossy" in the ebay title they are talking about the screen. There was confusion in the past (2+yrs ago) but this very thread set them straight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For overclocking you have "dun" good! BUT ... there is the matter of PWM diming on the newer L07 panels ... for some, NO BIG DEAL (ie. Misiak) ... for others like me, it is ... some comments *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps you with your decision(s)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry tomcat, I'm not sure I follow. is the PWM factor ...a bad thing. like I googled it "Pulse Wave Modulation" from what I understand ....does that mean the screen will flicker or because of the high hertz, the screen will go dim? (less power to the leds) mainly what I'm asking is, will the average user notice the "problem" or only a ....videophile.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> It's really an individual (person) thing. Some folks notice it to the point that it drives them to distraction or even causes headaches. Others don't notice it at all. I suspect it has to do with how the person is wired, so to speak...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Seafodders explanation is quite simple but accurate! ... +R for you









Sometimes I regret even bringing up PWM problems, as psychologically some people will start looking for problems that don't exist for them. For me PWM is real and I notice it right away by the image "blurriness" it causes in fast twitch FPS and within 10-15min I notice eye fatigue ... technical explanation *HERE* ...

For many it is not a problem ... so enjoy what IMO is a steal deal 1440p/IPS @OC 96-120Hz for under $300 ... an absolute steal when you compare it to the $800 JUNK AUO "gaming" panels from Asus/Acer









There are NO fees of any kind ... USA FREE trade agreement with SKorea - April 1, 2007 / Canada-Korea Free Trade Agreement (CKFTA) - January 1, 2015


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Just a quick Q, Customs.
> 
> Seeing as how the monitor is shipped from Korea, did any US residents have to pay brokerage fees at your doors? (I'm Canadian, but if you guys had to pay, so will I)
> I've ordered countless times from china and Japan and rarely ever paid customs. luck or thats how its supposed to be, I dont know.


The US has a free trade agreement with Korea, so no customs/import duties. Not sure if Canada is the same though.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Awesome, was a bit worried about it, was $325 CAD ($249usd) total so, anything over $100 is usually like $20+ at the door. I've paid customs fees almost every time ordering anything from a retailer that ships from the US. so nowadays I only buy from overseas, better luck, in the 15 years I've been buying overseas, probably only had the door-fee about 4 times. where as, (almost) every package from the US has had brokerage fees(most I've paid was $96 on a $250 item), and its really hard to sway any seller to ship as gift, mainly because you lose any insurance on shipped item.

I'm currently using a Benq RL2460H monitor, and further reading about PWM, will I notice it going from 1ms GTG to the Qnix 5-8ms GTG (cant find what the actual ms is, keep seeing 5 and 8ms) Will PWM make this a more...noticeable problem if I'm already used to a 1ms monitor. (had a crappy Sony Playstation 3D TV before the Benq, and the 8-11ms response time on it was horrendous, I could see ghosting just moving windows around)


----------



## MillerLite1314

My Evolution 2 came in last night and it is beautiful. Pixel perfect and all. Arrived in Texas from Korea in 3 days from the order date.

The only issue I'm having is the qnix driver I have is a .rar file and I can't figure out how to disable dsr in NVCP.

Edit: I figured it out.


----------



## rpps

I have had my Qnix Glossy monitor for around 3 weeks now and it has zero dead pixels which was a relief, I just hope it last longer than my Yamakasi Catleap which lasted only 3 years. When the Yamakasi died I replaced it with a Dell Ultrasharp but I couldn't get use to the matte screen after having a glossy screen, for photo editing I really appreciated a glossy screen it's so much easier. People say that a glossy screen shows more reflections but I don't and actually in daylight I find that the glow from on a matte screen worse by far.
I have the monitor calibrated with my Huey Pro now and I find this monitor superb for what I use it for Photoshop ect, and the size is just about perfect


----------



## cookieboyeli

*Anyone have any really advanced tips for achieving a higher overclock?*

I'm using an MSI GTX 770 Lightning with a custom bios - most monitors are digitally limited to 120Hz on Kepler(?) like the 144/165Hz XB271HU. My 970 is out of order for now, but perhaps it would help the situation?

Also, does it matter which DL-DVI port I use on my 770?

I can get 117Hz flawless, but above that I cannot seem to reduce horizontal red lines on specific dark screens any further. There are several lines per second on these very specific scenes only.

This picture does it for me:


Spoiler: HUGE PNG: 2560x1440







These timings give me the fewest lines:


I actually get far LESS artifacts running at 120.8Hz instead of 120Hz.
Going below 2652 gives me green/white flickering vertical lines in three places, although I can set it as low as 2658 before out of bounds.
Going below 1458 increases power usage from 62w to 104w. Going below 1456 increases artifacts. I can go as low as 1444 before out of bounds.
Going around 470Mhz+ Pixel clock gives extreme artifacts.

Is there anything else I should try with front/back porch/sync width and other timings? I could use CRU for more fine grained control.

*Physical Upgrades:*
I've upgraded the power brick to one that can output 72w max instead of 59w max, it runs much cooler. I looked at about 30 different ones before I found one I liked: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5BNZR2

I'm using a 24AWG 6ft DL-DVI-D cable: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2686.

I've debezeled the monitor, although the back of the case has to stay even with my vesa arm because the case is what holds the panel.
While I was in there I put a heatsink on the largest chip (scaler?) which I'm assuming is what matters. I attached it with thermal tape. (Took pic beforehand, sorry it's out of focus, using Coolpix potato. I can take a MUCH better photo if needed).

I also removed the speakers completely (Red/Black & Blue/Black wires on top) to lower draw on the board and reduce possible electromagnetic interference from the speakers and related circuitry on the board.



*Ideas:*
Perhaps I should add some more cutouts to the place where it's mounted? Maybe heat sinks on other things?
I could even swap some parts on the board like capacitors or that plug-in type chip if it would help.

I was also thinking of adding some foil to those HORRIBLY shielded cables (can't even see shielding in the pic, it starts another inch down).
Maybe I should just get entirely new internal video cables with thicker gauge & better shielding?

Thoughts? *I'm going full enthusiast mode on this.* (Especially because I'm switching to the XB217HU as soon as it's back in stock refurbished).

I want that 120Hz. Some say it can't be done, that it all depends on the monitor. - But what specifically does it depend on? It's more specific that that.


----------



## landon2525

Just FYI guys. I am the person that had the issue with the green lines on half of the screen at refresh rates of 45Hz and above.

Today I took the panel apart and wrapped the lvds cables with some 3M friction tape.

I then unplugged and then re-plugged all of the cables back in and Viola! no green lines and the monitor is overclocked to 75Hz. I'm not trying to push the monitor as I really have no need for gaming above 75Hz right now.

This is the same fix as the other person on this thread that had red lines on half of his screen.


----------



## DanT623

*QNIX QHD2401R MULTI 24" 2560x1440
*

Im sure this may have been mentioned previously but was wondering if any one has any experience with this monitor from accessorieswhole? Looking to get it going with a GTX 1070 when its released

Thoughts?!

















edit: i also use a MBPr with a HDMI port and have seen you can use the HDMI port on the QNIX Multis to get a display? Am I right?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanT623*
> 
> *QNIX QHD2401R MULTI 24" 2560x1440
> *
> 
> Im sure this may have been mentioned previously but was wondering if any one has any experience with this monitor from accessorieswhole?


Just got my monitor from them, arrived a few hrs ago, ordered last Tuesday. imo awesome service, I couldnt find a Matte "Perfect pixel" so the made me one! just had to pay $10 extra,I assume they either found a Matte or converted a Glossy to Matte.


And, guys that said $0 dollars at door, I had to pay $50 in taxes !? at my door. my province/state of Quebec (Canada) sucks...
Guys, major Q, how do I calibrate this monitor? no OSD so I'm not sure, do I use AMD Catalyst? (R9 390) The Blacks are...glowing. and the brightness is blinding...well for me, think it came at 100% ...its lighting up my entire room.
Should I calibrate before OC or after?
Also noticed that the OC guide is a bit dated, because now in Catalyst 16, there is a section for setting up Custom Resolutions.

EDIT: 
Any idea what I can do to fix the purple? its seems to only show up on special shades of grey and blue. Really would like to stay on 100hz, as 120 and 110 give the green lines/artifacts.
Also, I have set LCD Standard and Reduced (just weirdly every time I click edit, it resets to "Manual")


----------



## jagsta21

i just purchased this monitor from dream-seller i live in the usa and shpped it to my work paying through paypal. what kind of import/taxes am i looking at (dream seller has yet to reply to my questions) do they send me a bill to my billing address? do i pay when they bring the monitor?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagsta21*
> 
> i just purchased this monitor from dream-seller i live in the usa and shpped it to my work paying through paypal. what kind of import/taxes am i looking at (dream seller has yet to reply to my questions) do they send me a bill to my billing address? do i pay when they bring the monitor?


apparently theres a "Free-trade" deal with KR and US so...from what others have said, it should be $0.

I live in Canada, and I had to pay the GST(5%) and QST(9.975%), so on a $262 monitor (thats what accessorieswhole wrote on the package) I was charged $50 at my door.

so be on the safe side, find the sales tax of your state and just do the calculations and have that amount ready...I guess, but what other US residents have said, they didnt pay anything because of the trade deal.


----------



## giodelgado

Since I got the monitor it goes into sleep at around 1 or 2 mins but the screen turns black, anyone experiencing this?

Checked my sleep settings under windows, there's nothing on the Nvidia control panel that states sleep settings, the screen goes black.

It's annoying!

Update:
Reverted refresh rate to 60hz - same result
Removed QNIX driver - FIXED!

Now I would like to know if this is a normal behaviour for everyone else, my config:

Mac Pro 2009 using Bootcamp
GTX 960 GPU


----------



## Infinite Jest

I've had the L07 for about 6 months and I've grown to hate it for gaming. The pwm strobbing frankly sucks for fast motion in games. I wish that gsync ips monitors would come down in price a bit.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I've had the L07 for about 6 months and I've grown to hate it for gaming. The pwm strobbing frankly sucks for fast motion in games. I wish that gsync ips monitors would come down in price a bit.


I thought the PWM would suck too when I heard about it and read what it does to your eyes, and all the headaches it can cause.

but so far I'm fine, I only notice it on white colours(backgrounds) and thats if I really strain to look for it. other than that at 100% brightness in-game I dont notice it at all, especially in fast games where my focus needs to be at like 4 places at once, checking my corners and all.

been about a 4 days now, and I cant wait for the weekend when I'll try the BLB frame fix. the BLB is really bad, or Ive never seen "worse" BLB before so this is considered horrible.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/410#post_25235557
last thing I said (spoiler)


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> I thought the PWM would suck too when I heard about it and read what it does to your eyes, and all the headaches it can cause.
> 
> but so far I'm fine, I only notice it on white colours(backgrounds) and thats if I really strain to look for it. other than that at 100% brightness in-game I dont notice it at all, especially in fast games where my focus needs to be at like 4 places at once, checking my corners and all.
> 
> been about a 4 days now, and I cant wait for the weekend when I'll try the BLB frame fix. the BLB is really bad, or Ive never seen "worse" BLB before so this is considered horrible.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1493929/qnix-and-x-star-monitors-new-timings-and-overclocking-guide-club/410#post_25235557
> last thing I said (spoiler)


Yeah, my initial BLB was horrible and the display had slipped from the brackets. Oncr I got it back it and tapped it down, for definitely helped in that department.


----------



## HyeVltg3

At 11:19 totallydubbed talks about his BLB, and says thats not really it....that looks very much like mine, do I have BLB all wrong?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 11:19 totallydubbed talks about his BLB, and says thats not really it....that looks very much like mine, do I have BLB all wrong?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is probably mostly IPS glow. You can tell if BLB if you put pressure on that area and it changes.


----------



## MillerLite1314

so I'm loving my QNIX except that I can't seem to get the colors right. My whites look more grey than they should.


----------



## keyww

Hi! I just setup my Qnix 2710 (and potentially will have another 2 monitors) , but the monitor seems to be cycling through different colours on boot.

I tried connecting to another monitor (@1080p) and there isn't a problem on that monitor.

Does anyone have an idea of how I can edit the settings so that my Qnix monitor will display properly?

*I am on Windows 10, if that helps.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> so I'm loving my QNIX except that I can't seem to get the colors right. My whites look more grey than they should.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keyww*
> 
> Hi! I just setup my Qnix 2710 (and potentially will have another 2 monitors) , but the monitor seems to be cycling through different colours on boot.
> 
> I tried connecting to another monitor (@1080p) and there isn't a problem on that monitor.
> 
> Does anyone have an idea of how I can edit the settings so that my Qnix monitor will display properly?
> 
> *I am on Windows 10, if that helps.


Windows 10 doesnt help.

whats your GPU? (Video Card?)


----------



## keyww

Using an old HD6850 as a stand-in for now.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keyww*
> 
> Using an old HD6850 as a stand-in for now.


I dont remember the minimum required for this monitor, but I think the 6850 is above it. Because know that this monitor is driven directly off the Video Card, main reason it cant be used with onboard VGAs, even if your mobo has a DVI output.

Have you tried a different DVI-D cable?


----------



## HyeVltg3

(excuse the double post)

Just wondering, would a HDMI to DVI or DP to DVI adapter work with this monitor?

for a video card that doesnt have DVI-D conenctor.


----------



## keyww

I have, but I doubt it's the DVI-D cable. Both cables I've tried works with a Dell monitor.

I think the Qnix 2710 isn't plug and play on Windows either, probably will see if there's a fix after I finish running memtest.

Afaik, you need an active adapter for DP to DVI-D for this montior. Read somewhere that HDMI to DVI-D doesn't work out.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keyww*
> 
> I have, but I doubt it's the DVI-D cable. Both cables I've tried works with a Dell monitor.
> 
> I think the Qnix 2710 isn't plug and play on Windows either, probably will see if there's a fix after I finish running memtest.
> 
> Afaik, you need an active adapter for DP to DVI-D for this montior. Read somewhere that HDMI to DVI-D doesn't work out.


http://www.networktechinc.com/blog/differences-between-dvi-connectors-and-signals-2/276/

read that.
You need a DVI-D Dual Link cable to push above 1920x1200.

could be your problem.

I'm hoping VisionTek DisplayPort to Dual Link DVI-D Active Adapter (M/F)
will work. if it doesnt I'm in big trouble.
Kind of dug myself a hole by buying a DVI only monitor then buying a video card that only has HDMI and DP ports. haha


----------



## dante`afk

One of my ACs died today, will this work with the Qnix?

https://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-Adapter-Charger-Benq-Monitors/dp/B0023Y9EQC?ie=UTF8&keywords=5a%2012v%20power%20supply&qid=1409859973&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1


----------



## dorkimoe

Quick question. I am trying to mount my qnix onto this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MSDG84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. The thumb screws used to mount the backplate onto the back of the monitor dont work, they fit width wise but are too long so I cant screw them in tight enough to keep the plate from moving. Before I go to the hardware store and hunt through a billion sizes of thumb screws, anyone happen to know the width/length of a thumbscrew i would need?

thanks!


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorkimoe*
> 
> Quick question. I am trying to mount my qnix onto this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MSDG84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. The thumb screws used to mount the backplate onto the back of the monitor dont work, they fit width wise but are too long so I cant screw them in tight enough to keep the plate from moving. Before I go to the hardware store and hunt through a billion sizes of thumb screws, anyone happen to know the width/length of a thumbscrew i would need?
> 
> thanks!


Go to the plumbing section and buy a pack of rubber washers?

thats what I did to attach my benq RL2460H stand to the Qnix, the benq stand uses the VESA holes on the benq, so was pretty awesome that its like a universal stand now, for VESA 100x100.
I just used rubber washers to make the stand and qnix have firm contact, because without washers the Benq screws left a very tiny gap, just didnt feel good knowing it wiggled a little, I dont think the VESA holes are deep enough.

IMO use rubber washers over metal, the stand and back of the monitor are both plastic, plus the rubber ones add a good bit of rigidity versus metal.


----------



## cookieboyeli

Hey thanks for he idea! +1Rep









I'm having the same problem but much worse, I have about 1.5mm of space I need to fill since the VESA holes aren't deep enough. Moving the monitor scrapes the screws and is really horrible and hard to adjust.

I agree rubber washers would be a much better choice too, didn't even remember they existed until your comment actually. They'll also help reduce minute vibrations which is a big plus.


----------



## Luxer

my ac adapter is starting to get insanely hot. has anyone bought a replacement that is much cooler?


----------



## zeeee4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Just got my Off-Grade today.
> 
> I'm impressed, not a single dead pixel, no backlight bleeding. I'm SO happy with my purchase with accesorieswhole


thank you finally someone who bought off-grade, i just bought mine recently and im literally nervous as hell shaking trying to find people with it and seeing if they have major issues. I HOPE MINE DOESNT!!!!


----------



## cookieboyeli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luxer*
> 
> my ac adapter is starting to get insanely hot. has anyone bought a replacement that is much cooler?


I've looked at about 3 dozen of them trying to find the absolute best one. This is it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5BNZR2/


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> I've looked at about 3 dozen of them trying to find the absolute best one. This is it:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5BNZR2/


Is there a specific model or are you just looking for matching DC In and outputs?
Mine's pretty hot, but I feel like that may be normal...unless yours is like "can cook an egg on it"--hot. Mine is like I can hold it but I've never felt a power brick this hot before.


----------



## cookieboyeli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> I've looked at about 3 dozen of them trying to find the absolute best one. This is it:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5BNZR2/
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a specific model or are you just looking for matching DC In and outputs?
> Mine's pretty hot, but I feel like that may be normal...unless yours is like "can cook an egg on it"--hot. Mine is like I can hold it but I've never felt a power brick this hot before.
Click to expand...

You don't have to match everything, it's actually advantageous to have a higher output amperage capability. The original QNIX adapter (the one that cooks eggs and melts and will cause your insurance to cover nothing if it burns your house down because it's not CE rated) is a 12v 5a output adapter, supporting 59 watts. This one can output 6amps, so it has a 72 watt maximum.

That overhead ensures that even if quality control/components were bad or of low quality the device would have ample performance overhead and still output a clean signal. (This model has no such issues, unlike the majority of adapters listed on amazon and ebay).

It's a great deal for the price/performance as well. I bought it with overclocking in mind. I can't say it helped but it certainly didn't hurt especially with the lowest brightness step flickering less.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Just dropping this here in case someone googles it.

QNIX 2710LED Evolution II
Windows 10 64-bit Pro
AMD Fury X

*Accell UltraAV DisplayPort to DVI-D Dual-Link Adapter
*
This adapter works for DP to DVI, in the case your Video Card doesnt have a DVI out, but does have Display Port.
Dont use HDMI to DVI, for bandwidth reasons, you cant output over 1080p (I couldnt find any, and you need HDMI 1.4 or above to even do 1440p+, but theres apparently problems converting a HDMI signal to DVI-D Dual Link) (1600p)
Just have to make sure your DVI cable is certified Dual Link when attaching this adapter.
Single Link Max. 1920x1200
Dual Link required for higher resolutions

*Pros:*
- Build Quality is awesome, really rigid feel, is plastic but hard and not flimsy/squeaky.
- Works with the Qnix, so should work with X-Star, Catleap, Crossover, Yama and the other Korean similar monitors.
- Long enough USB cable to reach back I/O USB ports.

*Cons:*
- Cant seem to go above [email protected], any CRU edit doesnt add the OC to the list of available refresh rates (in Display Adapter Settings). so you have to use 60Hz, making all the OC you did go to waste.
- Requires USB port for power
- Packaging cut my finger, opening it...

Got it from Best Buy sale, for 19.99 (reg. $120)

Going to be testing the

VisionTek DisplayPort to Dual Link DVI-D Active Adapter

tomorrow, bought both in case one didnt work. =D
(will just update this post.)

*VisionTek DisplayPort to Dual Link DVI-D Active Adapter*

Just tested the Visiontek adapter.

Doesnt work. Well it works but you can clearly see flickers and display corruptions (hazy flashes of horizontal lines on monitor)
Tried with 10ft DVI-D DL cable. Tried With the DVI cable that comes with the QNIX, same result.

Pros:
Small, Compact
Does not need USB connection also
Not too long that it dangles, the Adapter to DisplayPort plug is a decent length

Cons:
Does not work with QNIX 2710LED, even if reviews of the product state that it works on other 1440p displays
Same lines appear even at 1080p display settings
Packaging felt cheap, just adapter in a bag with the cardboard device label stapled to the top holding the bag shut.

going to be returning the VIsiontek asap.
Price: $39.99 (31.99 from Visiontek, no free shipping)


----------



## emoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Just dropping this here in case someone googles it. -snip-


Thanks for the info, been looking for more advice about this.

According to this YT video though it seems that using a single-link DVI to HDMI cable can work too?






I'd guess this probably has a lot of drawbacks compared to DVI to DP though. I'll probably just look around for the Accell adapter you used.


----------



## Ptomerty

While I know it's been asked before, has anyone noticed a difference overclocking using different gauge/length DVI cables? The FAQ says it seems random, but on other threads it seems like 24AWG cables perform well, with the shorter the better. With this, will my purchase of a 24AWG 6ft cable be fine?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ptomerty*
> 
> While I know it's been asked before, has anyone noticed a difference overclocking using different gauge/length DVI cables? The FAQ says it seems random, but on other threads it seems like 24AWG cables perform well, with the shorter the better. With this, will my purchase of a 24AWG 6ft cable be fine?


Quote:


> The maximum length recommended for DVI cables is not included in the specification, since it is dependent on the pixel clock frequency. In general, cable lengths up to 4.5 metres (15 ft) will work for display resolutions up to 1920 × 1200.
> --DVI Wiki


But Google-fu says the limit is 15ft for the DVI signal (Single and Dual Link), and requires Booster for beyond that.

So without actually testing different lengths, theres isnt really a definitive answer on it till someone publishes results.

IMO: I would think, yes length could be a factor...but a 3ft cable versus a 6ft cable would only 0.001% +/- your OC result.

I'm using an "expensive" brand 10ft cable and my cap was 96hz on this L08 panel QNIX, pixel clock above 400 caused purple mist to appear on the left side.
I should have checked a different cable, but now that I'm on a different GPU, I cant OC, so I cant test if the cable length mattered.


----------



## Ptomerty

So pretty much brand/length SHOULDN'T matter? Looks like I'm still picking up a 24AWG 6ft then... Monoprice ship faster plz


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ptomerty*
> 
> So pretty much brand/length SHOULDN'T matter? Looks like I'm still picking up a 24AWG 6ft then... Monoprice ship faster plz


Please note that was an opinion and not factual. but I do believe shorter is better, if you really needed anything longer than 6ft, then its a different story, but if DVI standards are set at 15ft limit I dont see why anything <15ft would fluctuate performance, and also we are not talking NEW technology, DVI has been around a looonnng time.

Did you JUST buy your monitor? it may also be a L08 model, please share your finding if you happen to get an OC higher than 96hz. would be plenty helpful.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> I've looked at about 3 dozen of them trying to find the absolute best one. This is it:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5BNZR2/


Nice, I'm gonna grab one of these along with a new card once the scalpers die off.


----------



## Ptomerty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Please note that was an opinion and not factual. but I do believe shorter is better, if you really needed anything longer than 6ft, then its a different story, but if DVI standards are set at 15ft limit I dont see why anything <15ft would fluctuate performance, and also we are not talking NEW technology, DVI has been around a looonnng time.
> 
> Did you JUST buy your monitor? it may also be a L08 model, please share your finding if you happen to get an OC higher than 96hz. would be plenty helpful.


Nah, I'm doing research on what I need to ensure the highest OC w/ the best panel, because I'm stuck at around a low 200s budget.

I was thinking of getting this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797, as I'm pretty sure that's the single input one that can OC, and is only $220. I'm also getting a 24AWG Dual Link DVI cable + a Monitor Arm from Monoprice, and I'll eventually need to upgrade my GPU from a GTX 950.

I've read about the PWM issues, but I'm not sure if I'd actually notice. On the other hand, I've been on the same refurb IPS monitor for years, so everything will drastically look different.

Just gathering money now...


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ptomerty*
> 
> Nah, I'm doing research on what I need to ensure the highest OC w/ the best panel, because I'm stuck at around a low 200s budget.
> 
> I was thinking of getting this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130933173797, as I'm pretty sure that's the single input one that can OC, and is only $220. I'm also getting a 24AWG Dual Link DVI cable + a Monitor Arm from Monoprice, and I'll eventually need to upgrade my GPU from a GTX 950.
> 
> I've read about the PWM issues, but I'm not sure if I'd actually notice. On the other hand, I've been on the same refurb IPS monitor for years, so everything will drastically look different.
> 
> Just gathering money now...


About the PWM issue, I dont know if its because I know about it and what it "can" do to your eyes, but after getting the QNIX, I've become "aware" of every eye/straining problem and cant tell if its just normal pains of playing games/typing all day, or actually the PWM causing it. I admit, I do find that my eyes hurt after a bit....then again, could also be because of some negative placebo effect, of knowing that staring for long periods at this monitor will cause eye issues because of the PWM.... =_= I only have one person to blame LOL YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE xD

but you should be fine, just do the ol' 20-20, every 20mins look away from screen to a far place for 20secs, let your eyes focus, continue to play. Optometrists say the same thing irrelevant to the PWN issue.

Bringing this up because I just had my bi-yearly eye-doctor checkup today and everything was perfectly fine....then again have only had the monitor since last tuesday.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Oh wow, I've actually noticed the same thing since having mine. It's a different kind of eye strain that happen in less than an hour as compared to my previous Dell IPS monitor. I'm seriously considering switching it out only for this reason.


----------



## Ptomerty

Yeah, it makes me a bit worried, because I don't have another $100 to spend on a 2795...


----------



## dude0014

Guys, I have an issue. Got the Gigabyte GTX 1080 card, works fine. So I overclocked the monitor to 96 Hz, no issues there either. However, once I restart the PC I'm greeted by the infamous White, Red, blue, green flashing color screen.

The only solution was to take my monitor back to 60 Hz before restarting, then it would boot fine. After which I could set 96 Hz again.

Is there any other solution that anyone has come across? Did not have any such issues with my previous GTX 780Ti


----------



## drathian

Specs:

* i5-3570k (very mild overclock)
* GTX 1070 FE (very mild overclock)
* ASRock Z77 Extreme4
* Windows 10 Pro (Up to date)
* Single QNIX 2710 monitor via DVI (overclocked to 96hz)

The issue I'm having is weird, so I'll walk you through it step by step.

1. Turn on computer. Bios loads into my BitLocker screen where I type in my password to decrypt the system.
2. The monitor turns completely blank, but still shows the blue light which means it's receiving signal.
3. My computer is at the windows login screen and fully functional, but I can't actually see anything. The screen is completely black.
4. If I plug in an unplugged HDMI cable into the 1070, as soon as I unplug that cable I get video to my monitor and it will work perfectly fine until I restart the computer.

The issue repeats itself every single time and I don't understand it because the only monitor that's connected is via DVI. It's acting as if it's sending the signal through the HDMI port and only realizes it needs to send it via DVI unless I plug something into the HDMI port and then unplug it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should try?

Thanks!


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drathian*
> 
> Specs:
> 
> * i5-3570k (very mild overclock)
> * GTX 1070 FE (very mild overclock)
> * ASRock Z77 Extreme4
> * Windows 10 Pro (Up to date)
> * Single QNIX 2710 monitor via DVI (overclocked to 96hz)
> 
> The issue I'm having is weird, so I'll walk you through it step by step.
> 
> 1. Turn on computer. Bios loads into my BitLocker screen where I type in my password to decrypt the system.
> 2. The monitor turns completely blank, but still shows the blue light which means it's receiving signal.
> 3. My computer is at the windows login screen and fully functional, but I can't actually see anything. The screen is completely black.
> 4. If I plug in an unplugged HDMI cable into the 1070, as soon as I unplug that cable I get video to my monitor and it will work perfectly fine until I restart the computer.
> 
> The issue repeats itself every single time and I don't understand it because the only monitor that's connected is via DVI. It's acting as if it's sending the signal through the HDMI port and only realizes it needs to send it via DVI unless I plug something into the HDMI port and then unplug it.
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should try?
> 
> Thanks!


In your BIOS what is your setting here? If it is currently on Auto, try PCIE


----------



## drathian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> In your BIOS what is your setting here? If it is currently on Auto, try PCIE


It's already set to PCIE in the bios. Actually the HDMI port that it's trying to go through is the one on the graphics card, not the onboard one.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Guys, I have an issue. Got the Gigabyte GTX 1080 card, works fine. So I overclocked the monitor to 96 Hz, no issues there either. However, once I restart the PC I'm greeted by the infamous White, Red, blue, green flashing color screen.
> 
> The only solution was to take my monitor back to 60 Hz before restarting, then it would boot fine. After which I could set 96 Hz again.
> 
> Is there any other solution that anyone has come across? Did not have any such issues with my previous GTX 780Ti


can you post your CRU settings...wait NV? so ....dam I use AMD so cant really help, but ask if, Did you Keep the 60Hz as the 2nd option in resolutions your monitor supports? So that if you go (W10?) right desktop > Display Settings > select monitor > at bottom > "Advanced Display Settings" > bottom > Display Adapter Settings > Monitor tab > does the drop down show 60Hz and 96Hz options? or only 96Hz.

Just wondering maybe your POST is limited to 60hz for BIOS and boot so could explain the colours, ....How are you able to get past this? does it revert back to 60hz(would make me asking the above, moot) just wondering does 96hz eventually boot or resets the OC. may help to know sys specs especially mobo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drathian*
> 
> Specs:
> 
> * i5-3570k (very mild overclock)
> * GTX 1070 FE (very mild overclock)
> * ASRock Z77 Extreme4
> * Windows 10 Pro (Up to date)
> * Single QNIX 2710 monitor via DVI (overclocked to 96hz)
> 
> The issue I'm having is weird, so I'll walk you through it step by step.
> 
> 1. Turn on computer. Bios loads into my BitLocker screen where I type in my password to decrypt the system.
> 2. The monitor turns completely blank, but still shows the blue light which means it's receiving signal.
> 3. My computer is at the windows login screen and fully functional, but I can't actually see anything. The screen is completely black.
> 4. If I plug in an unplugged HDMI cable into the 1070, as soon as I unplug that cable I get video to my monitor and it will work perfectly fine until I restart the computer.
> 
> The issue repeats itself every single time and I don't understand it because the only monitor that's connected is via DVI. It's acting as if it's sending the signal through the HDMI port and only realizes it needs to send it via DVI unless I plug something into the HDMI port and then unplug it.
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should try?
> 
> Thanks!


second person with a Pascal Nvidia card problem .... uhh maybe theres an underlying DVI output issue on the cards?
https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/941737/gtx-1070-graphics-problem-after-computer-restart-help-/?offset=6

Def looks like the QNIX! also 1070 ...maybe theres some incompatibility with Pascal and the QNIX monitor... D=
was actually planning to check out the 1070 when it came back in stock....


----------



## drathian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> can you post your CRU settings...wait NV? so ....dam I use AMD so cant really help, but ask if, Did you Keep the 60Hz as the 2nd option in resolutions your monitor supports? So that if you go (W10?) right desktop > Display Settings > select monitor > at bottom > "Advanced Display Settings" > bottom > Display Adapter Settings > Monitor tab > does the drop down show 60Hz and 96Hz options? or only 96Hz.
> 
> Just wondering maybe your POST is limited to 60hz for BIOS and boot so could explain the colours, ....How are you able to get past this? does it revert back to 60hz(would make me asking the above, moot) just wondering does 96hz eventually boot or resets the OC. may help to know sys specs especially mobo.
> second person with a Pascal Nvidia card problem .... uhh maybe theres an underlying DVI output issue on the cards?
> https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/941737/gtx-1070-graphics-problem-after-computer-restart-help-/?offset=6
> 
> Def looks like the QNIX! also 1070 ...maybe theres some incompatibility with Pascal and the QNIX monitor... D=
> was actually planning to check out the 1070 when it came back in stock....


Interesting. It's not the same exact issue, but it's very similar. Just like his, I have issues every time I restart but once I get past the issues and the monitor receives picture the graphics card works perfectly. At least... until I restart again.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> can you post your CRU settings...wait NV? so ....dam I use AMD so cant really help, but ask if, Did you Keep the 60Hz as the 2nd option in resolutions your monitor supports? So that if you go (W10?) right desktop > Display Settings > select monitor > at bottom > "Advanced Display Settings" > bottom > Display Adapter Settings > Monitor tab > does the drop down show 60Hz and 96Hz options? or only 96Hz.
> 
> Just wondering maybe your POST is limited to 60hz for BIOS and boot so could explain the colours, ....How are you able to get past this? does it revert back to 60hz(would make me asking the above, moot) just wondering does 96hz eventually boot or resets the OC. may help to know sys specs especially mobo.
> second person with a Pascal Nvidia card problem .... uhh maybe theres an underlying DVI output issue on the cards?
> https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/941737/gtx-1070-graphics-problem-after-computer-restart-help-/?offset=6
> 
> Def looks like the QNIX! also 1070 ...maybe theres some incompatibility with Pascal and the QNIX monitor... D=
> was actually planning to check out the 1070 when it came back in stock....


I tried multiple different things.

1. The solution that works currently is setting refresh rate to 80 Hz, that allows to boot into windows directly, from where I have to manually up it to 96 Hz every time & reduce it back to 80 Hz before I shutdown. every time









2. I have tried using CRU instead of NV panel, with the exact same results. I did set multiple montior refresh rates as you suggested 60 Hz, 75 Hz, 80 Hz, 96 Hz, 99 Hz..but the maximum I could boot into without getting the flashing colors after the windows loading icon is 80 Hz

3. Used DDU, and then tried different Nvidia drivers including the lastest hotfix 368.51. No benefit there

4. Used my super thick monoprice DVI cable. Works exactly like my regular cable

Note: How to get past this 96Hz loop - When i see the flashing colors, I tap the shutdown button on PC. It shuts down normally (nothing visible on screen except colors). I repeat this once more. Third time windows 10 automatically does some sort of limited boot, where antivirus seems to be disabled, and maybe some other stuff. There is full video driver support however (strange) and it boots into 96Hz (strange again).


----------



## Jabova

Hello, I have a Qnix qx2710 and recently got a gtx 1080. I am having issues with the monitor as it bugs out when I restart my computer with the monitor overclocked to 120hz. After testing, i was able to overclock it to 81hz but that seems to be the limit where it's stable. I did not have this problem with my previous gtx 780. Do you think it's a driver problem? Any ideas? Thank you.

edit: here is the screen i am getting


----------



## BulletSponge

Hopefully someone gets these QNIX/Pascal issues sorted quickly. Otherwise when my 1070 shows up I'll be giving my daughter my 970 and QNIX and going with a new 144Hz monitor.

Do those of you experiencing issues at 96Hz have the QNIX monitor driver installed? If so, have you tried it with the Windows Generic driver?


----------



## drathian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Hopefully someone gets these QNIX/Pascal issues sorted quickly. Otherwise when my 1070 shows up I'll be giving my daughter my 970 and QNIX and going with a new 144Hz monitor.
> 
> Do those of you experiencing issues at 96Hz have the QNIX monitor driver installed? If so, have you tried it with the Windows Generic driver?


I tried both with the QNIX monitor driver as well as with the generic driver. It didn't seem to make a difference either way.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fusiongate*
> 
> I've had the Qnix DVI monitor for years, but never overclocked until now because my GPU usually never sustained 60 FPS anyway. I'd just like to report that my new GTX 1070 successfully does 110 Hz with automatic timings and without driver patching. (EDIT: It turns out Toastyx's pixel clock patch was necessary to prevent the monitor from going crazy after reboot.) I didn't try 120 Hz.
> 
> Thanks for the guide!


We need to figure out what is different between this guys system and ours. I thought the pixel clock patch was just for AMD cards?


----------



## drathian

Interesting. I found something out. Apparently the overclock is causing the black screen on reboot.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher?pid=5426#pid5426

Following in this guy's footsteps I found that if I overclock to 80hz instead of 96hz, it reboots perfectly fine. It must be a driver bug because 96hz worked perfectly fine with my 7970 for a year and works with my 1070 except for immediately following a reboot.


----------



## Rakunvar

Curiosly.. Been looking into grabbing a 1080 although I just realized theres only 1 DVI port.. I have the older Qnix's and an Overlord that Ive overclocked, so only have DVI ports currently. Im trying to find out if theres a way to convert the display port perhaps to DVI? Or am I looking at needing new monitors as well basically?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakunvar*
> 
> Curiosly.. Been looking into grabbing a 1080 although I just realized theres only 1 DVI port.. I have the older Qnix's and an Overlord that Ive overclocked, so only have DVI ports currently. Im trying to find out if theres a way to convert the display port perhaps to DVI? Or am I looking at needing new monitors as well basically?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/25030#post_25260439


----------



## Rakunvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/25030#post_25260439


Thanks, I must've missworded my search earlier. No options for 120hz Im guessing though from what you mentioned.


----------



## Fusiongate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> We need to figure out what is different between this guys system and ours. I thought the pixel clock patch was just for AMD cards?


Doing some more testing, I have discovered that I must keep Fast Boot disabled to be able to boot with at 110 Hz. When I re-enabled Fast Boot, I needed to lower it to 80 Hz, or else it would only show some colorful vertical lines at boot.

Unfortunately, even with Fast Boot disabled, waking from sleep above 80 Hz still causes the vertical lines. So I think I will stick to 80 Hz until a real solution is found.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drathian*
> 
> Interesting. I found something out. Apparently the overclock is causing the black screen on reboot.
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher?pid=5426#pid5426
> 
> Following in this guy's footsteps I found that if I overclock to 80hz instead of 96hz, it reboots perfectly fine. It must be a driver bug because 96hz worked perfectly fine with my 7970 for a year and works with my 1070 except for immediately following a reboot.


That's exactly what I found out myself as well.
As I wrote in the post like 3 posts above yours "1. The solution that works currently is setting refresh rate to 80 Hz, that allows to boot into windows directly, from where I have to manually up it to 96 Hz every time & reduce it back to 80 Hz before I shutdown. every time"

Currently I'm running at 80Hz


----------



## DanT623

Still deciding which one to get from accessorieswhole...

Could someone please point me to the one with the highest res, best response time at 24/27" with multi inputs at the lowest price?

Going to be for my new PC build which is mostly for gaming.

Thanks!
























edit: QNIX QHD2410R MULTI 24" 2560x1440 LED QHD 24 inch DVI HDMI Samsung PLS Monitor This is the one I have my eyes on but the response time i think is a bit high?

Any help?


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> That's exactly what I found out myself as well.
> As I wrote in the post like 3 posts above yours "1. The solution that works currently is setting refresh rate to 80 Hz, that allows to boot into windows directly, from where I have to manually up it to 96 Hz every time & reduce it back to 80 Hz before I shutdown. every time"
> 
> Currently I'm running at 80Hz


Hi guys, I'm awaiting 1080 the next week so I'm a bit afraid of it. Is there a problem from sleep as well ? And what are you doing if you restart and have black screen ? Do you need to restart into safe mode and uninstall drivers ? thx


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanT623*
> 
> Still deciding which one to get from accessorieswhole...
> 
> Could someone please point me to the one with the highest res, best response time at 24/27" with multi inputs at the lowest price?
> 
> Going to be for my new PC build which is mostly for gaming.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: QNIX QHD2410R MULTI 24" 2560x1440 LED QHD 24 inch DVI HDMI Samsung PLS Monitor This is the one I have my eyes on but the response time i think is a bit high?
> 
> Any help?


At 24" text is going to incredibly tiny on a 1440p monitor. Personally, if I was looking for a 24" monitor in that price range I would probably go with 1080p/144Hz. Especially if response time was important.


----------



## DanT623

Either 24" or 27". I have owned a monitor at 1440p this size before and the zoom Windows does suits me fine, but anyway, any recommendations though?!


----------



## HyeVltg3

People having the weird colours after reboot/sleep, Are you guys all on Windows 10?

I'm on AMD Fury X, Windows 10.
and last night just got hit with the "alien abduction" of my monitor, had to reset monitor (power off, power on) to fix it. (not reboot system)

so maybe...some windows 10 update jiggled something loose?


----------



## DiceAir

So I think it's time to say goodbye to my qnix qx2710. I'm heavy into fps games like BF4 and BF1 when it comes out. I'm on 980ti and looking at getting a g-sync monitor but usure if it will be much better than my qnix. Is there anyone here that actually changed from qnix to any g-sync display and can maybe tell me if it was worth it or more like a sidegrade.

My qnix is 96hz capable only


----------



## jagsta21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagsta21*
> 
> i just purchased this monitor from dream-seller i live in the usa and shpped it to my work paying through paypal. what kind of import/taxes am i looking at (dream seller has yet to reply to my questions) do they send me a bill to my billing address? do i pay when they bring the monitor?


in regards to this post. the monitor received was 100% perfect no dead pixels very little blb (less than my xb270hu) i actually like the look of it more too!


----------



## fyr3

I've been trying to find among these Korean monitors a 24 inch 144hz PLS but the QX2414 is a TN panel and I can't find an IPS/PLS at 144hz anywhere oustide of the bigger overclockable models. I would buy the QX2710 here:

http://flash.newegg.com/product/9SIA90V3FH4078?SID=7db6700e376511e6adeace4eac4a93b80INT&AID=10440897&PID=1225267&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-Slickdeals+LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=12087162&PID=4485850&SID=7db6700e376511e6adeace4eac4a93b80INT&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=afc-Slickdeals+LLC

right away except for the fact that I want to be sure I'm gonna get at least 100hz+ and hopefully 120. Can anyone tell me if this model is 100% the overclockable version, or, even better, if there's a 24 inch 144hz PLS or IPS hidden somewhere among these ebay sellers?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyr3*
> 
> I've been trying to find among these Korean monitors a 24 inch 144hz PLS but the QX2414 is a TN panel and I can't find an IPS/PLS at 144hz anywhere oustide of the bigger overclockable models. I would buy the QX2710 here:
> 
> http://flash.newegg.com/product/9SIA90V3FH4078?SID=7db6700e376511e6adeace4eac4a93b80INT&AID=10440897&PID=1225267&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-Slickdeals+LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=12087162&PID=4485850&SID=7db6700e376511e6adeace4eac4a93b80INT&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=afc-Slickdeals+LLC
> 
> right away except for the fact that I want to be sure I'm gonna get at least 100hz+ and hopefully 120. Can anyone tell me if this model is 100% the overclockable version, or, even better, if there's a 24 inch 144hz PLS or IPS hidden somewhere among these ebay sellers?


Without opening up the panel to check behind it for the Model number, your best bet is that its either a L07 or L08, Both have only claimed to be able to hit 96hz-110hz. most common is 96hz.

The 120hz oc QNIX monitors are the early L02 models, I dont think they make those anymore, discontinued.
Both L07 and L08 use PWM, but from what I hear the PWM is worse on the L07, as I have L08 and barely notice it.

The difference between 96 and 100 is not even noticeable, my L08 can hit 103, but its such an odd number I brought it back to 96hz, but now that I'm on the Fury X, using DP to DVI, I cant get OC working. so back to 60hz I am.

Also note that this is a 1440p monitor. if you dont have something like 390x/Fury/FuryX/980ti/1070/1080 I highly doubt you'll be hitting 120hz cap of the monitor, in recent games.
96hz is pretty smooth.
If you're hellbent on 120hz, get a 1080p 24" that can do 144hz.

Almost forgot to answer your main Q haha; Yes the Evolution II is overclockable. beware the "True10" is not, it has some fake-OC. also I believe the "Multi" is not OC-able either.
Quote:


> Model
> Brand QNIX
> Series EVOLUTION II
> Model QNIX QX2710 EVOLUTION II LED Glossy


I have the Matte version. so not that your max may also be 96hz. if buying New.


----------



## turkaholic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> So i've been looking for a suitable monitor stand replacement for this and have seen the suggested gateway one (link here) that goes for $30. It may have the height adjustment, tilt, swivel, and rotation but it looks so damn plain and boring.
> 
> So i searched for a better one, and found it. It is an OEM HP monitor stand for a 22" they sell. Found it on ebay (link here) for $22 shipped. It had some weird hp connector plate on there, but once you simply unscrew the HP connector plates, a 100mm vesa mounting plate is revealed. I then used the screws I just took off, and a washer for each screw to mount the monitor. It is sturdy as hell, and has height adjustment, screen rotation, tilt, and swivel. At the tallest height extension, the monitor has enough clearance for screen rotation to portrait.
> 
> *Bottom line: Looks great, no visible HP branding on it, tilt, swivel, rotation, height adjustments, and only $22 shipped.*
> 
> Here are some pics.
> 
> Lowest height setting (there is a locking mechanism at the lowest height, feels very sturdy To release it, press button on back of stand.)
> 
> 
> Tallest height
> 
> 
> A little cable organizer pass-through thing. Works great for a keyboard wire.
> 
> 
> Side profile, lowest height.
> 
> 
> Tallest height, and maximum tilt and swivel.
> 
> 
> Edit: Monitor rotation at the tallest height setting.


I just bought this monitor mount and while it works great on the lowest height, when I try to put it any higher the mount will just fall back down to the lowest possible height like as if it cannot support the weight of the QNIX monitor. Has anyone else had this issue and found a way to fix it? I can deal with it on the lowest height I guess but I would prefer actually being able to use the thing as it's intended. Thanks for any help, sorry if this has been answered this is my first time posting on this amazing thread.


----------



## Ptomerty

Just finalizing stuff: Willl this monitor stand work?

As well, anyone know the price of this monitor when its not on sale?

Lastly, 24AWG and 28AWG don't make a difference, right? I should be fine with spending $10 and not $20 on a 6ft cable?


----------



## fyr3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Without opening up the panel to check behind it for the Model number, your best bet is that its either a L07 or L08, Both have only claimed to be able to hit 96hz-110hz. most common is 96hz.
> 
> The 120hz oc QNIX monitors are the early L02 models, I dont think they make those anymore, discontinued.
> Both L07 and L08 use PWM, but from what I hear the PWM is worse on the L07, as I have L08 and barely notice it.
> 
> The difference between 96 and 100 is not even noticeable, my L08 can hit 103, but its such an odd number I brought it back to 96hz, but now that I'm on the Fury X, using DP to DVI, I cant get OC working. so back to 60hz I am.
> 
> Also note that this is a 1440p monitor. if you dont have something like 390x/Fury/FuryX/980ti/1070/1080 I highly doubt you'll be hitting 120hz cap of the monitor, in recent games.
> 96hz is pretty smooth.
> If you're hellbent on 120hz, get a 1080p 24" that can do 144hz.
> 
> Almost forgot to answer your main Q haha; Yes the Evolution II is overclockable. beware the "True10" is not, it has some fake-OC. also I believe the "Multi" is not OC-able either.
> I have the Matte version. so not that your max may also be 96hz. if buying New.


I'm getting pretty close to buying this, but do you know of any PLS monitors among all these Korean sellers that can reach 120hz or 144hz without overclocking? I guess those are my two biggest criteria, I really want PLS/IPS/VA and also comfortable 120/144hz. I know monitors like that are rare but there has to be one somewhere here.

Also, I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to all this overclocking stuff... If I were to play a 1080p game on the 1440p monitor, would I be able to reach a higher level of refresh rate? like if I downgraded CSGO to 1080p could I reach 120hz on the QX2710?


----------



## Riadon

My QNIX is an L02 model from early 2013

I have a GTX 1070 and I am locked to 80 Hz (maybe I could hit 81 Hz, but I haven't tried).

I can easily overclock to 120 Hz stable after I am loaded into windows, but if my refresh rate is any higher than 80 Hz when I load into Windows, I get eternal flashing colors on my QNIX in place of the welcome screen.

I get the same result without the patch, with the normal patch, and with the full patch. Without the QNIX monitor driver, and with.

I'm assuming I could set the monitor to 81 Hz, but the second I set it to 82 Hz (330.3222 pixel clock), I can't boot. This leads me to believe that there is a DL-DVI driver issue with Pascal when clocking above 330 MHz that isn't addressed with the patcher.

Also, my friend with the same monitor and a GTX 1080 has the exact same problem. However, for some reason, if he spams a random key on his keyboard or moves his mouse around a bit before the flashing screen appears, he is able to boot into windows. However, if he doesn't touch his mouse or keyboard, he gets the screen. This doesn't work for me, however. The only reason I could see that it works for him and not me is because he has an MSI motherboard and I have an ASUS, but that's just a shot in the dark.

I'm willing to do as much as is needed to help fix this problem if I am able


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> My QNIX is an L02 model from early 2013
> 
> I have a GTX 1070 and I am locked to 80 Hz (maybe I could hit 81 Hz, but I haven't tried).
> 
> I can easily overclock to 120 Hz stable after I am loaded into windows, but if my refresh rate is any higher than 80 Hz when I load into Windows, I get eternal flashing colors on my QNIX in place of the welcome screen.
> 
> I get the same result without the patch, with the normal patch, and with the full patch. Without the QNIX monitor driver, and with.
> 
> I'm assuming I could set the monitor to 81 Hz, but the second I set it to 82 Hz (330.3222 pixel clock), I can't boot. This leads me to believe that there is a DL-DVI driver issue with Pascal when clocking above 330 MHz that isn't addressed with the patcher.
> 
> Also, my friend with the same monitor and a GTX 1080 has the exact same problem. However, for some reason, if he spams a random key on his keyboard or moves his mouse around a bit before the flashing screen appears, he is able to boot into windows. However, if he doesn't touch his mouse or keyboard, he gets the screen. This doesn't work for me, however. The only reason I could see that it works for him and not me is because he has an MSI motherboard and I have an ASUS, but that's just a shot in the dark.
> 
> I'm willing to do as much as is needed to help fix this problem if I am able


One user stated disabling Fast Startup (Which is on by default) solved the issue for him, have you tried that yet?


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> One user stated disabling Fast Startup (Which is on by default) solved the issue for him, have you tried that yet?


I tried disabling Fast Boot in my BIOS to no effect, but I haven't tried this.

I'll report back on whether or not it works.

Edit: I have a fully updated Windows 10, but that option doesn't exist for me. The only check boxes under shutdown settings are Sleep and Lock.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> I tried disabling Fast Boot in my BIOS to no effect, but I haven't tried this.
> 
> I'll report back on whether or not it works.
> 
> Edit: I have a fully updated Windows 10, but that option doesn't exist for me. The only check boxes under shutdown settings are Sleep and Lock.


Good luck, if there is no fix by my next payday I am buying a new monitor.

Edit-strange, I wonder why those options do not show for you?


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Good luck, if there is no fix by my next payday I am buying a new monitor.
> 
> Edit-strange, I wonder why those options do not show for you?


No idea, but I don't know that it would resolve things either way. I read that this only effects shutting down and starting back up, but I have the problem when restarting as well.


----------



## titanuk

@Riadon

You don't have it because you don't have hibernate on. The fact that fast startup isn't there means that it isn't on anyway.


----------



## drathian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Good luck, if there is no fix by my next payday I am buying a new monitor.
> 
> Edit-strange, I wonder why those options do not show for you?


The options show up on mine, but I tested it and it has no effect.

At 96hz, my monitor shows as a black screen on restart. At 80hz, it restarts perfectly fine.


----------



## Riadon

For those having the same problem as me, try spamming a random key on your keyboard as the computer boots up, basically anything that won't bring you into the bios. It allows my friend to bypass the flashing colors for some reason, but doesn't work for me.

Not a fix, just a way to boot into Windows easier without changing monitors in between at higher than 80 Hz if it works for you.


----------



## drathian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> For those having the same problem as me, try spamming a random key on your keyboard as the computer boots up, basically anything that won't bring you into the bios. It allows my friend to bypass the flashing colors for some reason, but doesn't work for me.
> 
> Not a fix, just a way to boot into Windows easier without changing monitors in between if it works for you.


Actually my issue is after bios. I am perfectly fine through bios. It's when the windows login screen is supposed to come up that my monitor goes completely black.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drathian*
> 
> Actually my issue is after bios. I am perfectly fine through bios. It's when the windows login screen is supposed to come up that my monitor goes completely black.


I know that's what I mean, if my friend is spamming a random key before the point where the 'welcome' screen would normally come up (or, start flashing in our case), he can avoid the problem.


----------



## drathian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> I know that's what I mean, if my friend is spamming a random key before the point where the 'welcome' screen would normally come up (or, start flashing in our case), he can avoid the problem.


Ah interesting, I'll give it a shot.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drathian*
> 
> Ah interesting, I'll give it a shot.


Be prepared for it not to work, as it doesn't work for me. However, if it does work for you, it will be useful.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> I tried disabling Fast Boot in my BIOS to no effect, but I haven't tried this.
> 
> I'll report back on whether or not it works.
> 
> Edit: I have a fully updated Windows 10, but that option doesn't exist for me. The only check boxes under shutdown settings are Sleep and Lock.


Do you have Windows 10 Pro?
(Upgraded from previous Windows Pro or Ultimate editions to Windows 10, this upgrades you to the Windows 10 Pro edition. upgrading from Home or OEM versions gives "Home" Edition of Windows 10, a.k.a non-Pro)

Asking because I just verified and I have those options. but I'm on W10 Pro 64-bit because I took the "Free Upgrade" while I was on W7 Ultimate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyr3*
> 
> I'm getting pretty close to buying this, but do you know of any PLS monitors among all these Korean sellers that can reach 120hz or 144hz without overclocking? I guess those are my two biggest criteria, I really want PLS/IPS/VA and also comfortable 120/144hz. I know monitors like that are rare but there has to be one somewhere here.
> 
> Also, I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to all this overclocking stuff... If I were to play a 1080p game on the 1440p monitor, would I be able to reach a higher level of refresh rate? like if I downgraded CSGO to 1080p could I reach 120hz on the QX2710?


Just a note, stay clear of VA panels...thats the crappy panels they use for adverts on the street and most of the ones in NY Time Square. very..."cheap" only meant for industrial use, IMO.
Aim for PLS/IPS
PLS is great for gaming. IPS is great for Colour. they both have great viewing angles. (not saying that PLS has worse colour, but side by side, people say good ol' IPS still wins compared to its "younger brother"-- PLS).

Overclocking is super easy. I never did it before and it only took me a few hours to figure out my max and mins and the sadness of realizing I couldnt get 120hz....then again I already knew >L02 panels cant do 120hz.

Please note anything above 60hz is considered an Overclock, so results will most likely vary. but so far all claims are </=L02, expect 120hz. >L02 expect 96hz-110hz. 96hz is most common.consider yourself lucky if you can go above 96hz.

[email protected]?
I would think that is possible, its all about the pixel clock, and going above your "max" stable clock will lead to purple-mist and/or green lines. So if you're able to find that nice sweet spot of [email protected], grats, but I would think its highly possible.
I would just find it annoying to have to switch monitor resolutions every time I change games haha.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Do you have Windows 10 Pro?
> (Upgraded from previous Windows Pro or Ultimate editions to Windows 10, this upgrades you to the Windows 10 Pro edition. upgrading from Home or OEM versions gives "Home" Edition of Windows 10, a.k.a non-Pro)


No I don't have Pro. I think the options don't show because, as titanuk said, I have Hibernate disabled, which turns the options off by default.


----------



## cookieboyeli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> So I think it's time to say goodbye to my qnix qx2710. I'm heavy into fps games like BF4 and BF1 when it comes out. I'm on 980ti and looking at getting a g-sync monitor but unsure if it will be much better than my qnix. Is there anyone here that actually changed from qnix to any g-sync display and can maybe tell me if it was worth it or more like a sidegrade.
> 
> My qnix is 96hz capable only


Yes, I switched to an XB271HU (refurb on ebay, $500+tax) although I feared it would be a sidegrade, it was MOST DEFINITELY an upgrade. The colors are so amazing, the pixel response time is MIND BLOWING, THE INPUT LAG is non existent. it turns on so much quicker, it adjusts so much better. My only regred is not getting one sooner.

Just for emphasis I'll say it again THE COLORS ARE FREAKING AMAZING. it's like going from TN to IPS all over again - or maybe even further. the jump is so huge even with my Qnix calibrated and all that. The gamma and contrast on the XB271HU is lightyears ahead of the Qnix.

It's _completely unaffordable_, but it's also completely worth it. Go broke getting it, for real.







2 months later and that "new awesome thing" feeling just won't wear off. It's awesome every time I turn it on.

Not in stock on ebay ATM, but it always comes back in. Just search XB271HU, include buy it now only, sort by lowest price and you'll find it sold by Acer Refurbished when it's back in stock.









EDIT Permalink: ebay.to/28NW9C2


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> No I don't have Pro. I think the options don't show because, as titanuk said, I have Hibernate disabled, which turns the options off by default.


my hibernation has been off since day one, dont like the .sys file size it creates.
And I still have the options in that image, main reason I asked if you have Pro, and you just solved it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> XB271HU,.


Gah hate the stand of this monitor and the ones that take after it like the new Crossover...why do people like such huge feet. I'd need to get a wider desk just to accommodate the stand + my keyboard + the fact I like my elbows on my desk (so the keybo is pushed right up to the Qnix stand)


----------



## HyeVltg3

[deleted]


----------



## Riadon

Are any of you with my problem using the 368.51 hotfix driver? It's unlisted on NVIDIA's website, but I found a link to it from another forum. In the notes, it says:

"This is a GeForce Hot Fix driver, version 368.51 that addresses the following issue:

• Occasional desktop flicker when launching games on high refresh rate monitors."

This isn't the same issue we're experiencing, but perhaps it is a related issue?

I am currently downloading the driver to test it, but it would be easier if someone who has downloaded it is able to tell me whether or not it works before i have to go grab another monitor to boot in the case that the driver has no effect.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Are any of you with my problem using the 368.51 hotfix driver? It's unlisted on NVIDIA's website, but I found a link to it from another forum. In the notes, it says:
> 
> "This is a GeForce Hot Fix driver, version 368.51 that addresses the following issue:
> 
> • Occasional desktop flicker when launching games on high refresh rate monitors."
> 
> This isn't the same issue we're experiencing, but perhaps it is a related issue?
> 
> I am currently downloading the driver to test it, but it would be easier if someone who has downloaded it is able to tell me whether or not it works before i have to go grab another monitor to boot in the case that the driver has no effect.


It doesn't work. However regarding you boot issue, just shutdown and restart 3 times, and it will boot right through. Use the shutdown button on PC (Single tap, not force off)

Third time's the charm, everytime

Edit: Also the hotfix driver reduced my 3D mark score


----------



## cookieboyeli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> XB271HU,.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gah hate the stand of this monitor and the ones that take after it like the new Crossover...why do people like such huge feet. I'd need to get a wider desk just to accommodate the stand + my keyboard + the fact I like my elbows on my desk (so the keybo is pushed right up to the Qnix stand)
Click to expand...

Ah, at the time I had a multi level desk and it was on the top with the tips of the feet overhanging to the point where it would probably touch my keyboard.
Now I've taken my desk apart so it's not so ******ed and gotten one of these to solve all my problems. I cannot tell you how nice a vesa arm is, you really have to get one. I got my used (but looked brand new) for $89 on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIBN16O/

Being able to adjust the monitor however I want it is awesome. No longer am I leaning forward to get it closer or getting back and neck aches from sitting incorrectly to see it, not I only get back and neck aches because I'm thin as a rail and my chair has about an inch of padding.







Still, it's a lot more comfortable of a setup.

You will need some rubber washers though since the vesa holes aren't deep enough. The washers need to be 1.6mm thick.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> Ah, at the time I had a multi level desk and it was on the top with the tips of the feet overhanging to the point where it would probably touch my keyboard.
> Now I've taken my desk apart so it's not so ******ed and gotten one of these to solve all my problems. I cannot tell you how nice a vesa arm is, you really have to get one. I got my used (but looked brand new) for $89 on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIBN16O/
> 
> Being able to adjust the monitor however I want it is awesome. No longer am I leaning forward to get it closer or getting back and neck aches from sitting incorrectly to see it, not I only get back and neck aches because I'm thin as a rail and my chair has about an inch of padding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, it's a lot more comfortable of a setup.
> 
> You will need some rubber washers though since the vesa holes aren't deep enough. The washers need to be 1.6mm thick.


Do have a vesa mount, its just I move the monitor around a bit (short reason: I have a 46" TV in the same room so I move the Primary monitor to the edge of the desk for Netflix while I play my consoles, small footprint helps a ton)
but my vesa mount is holding up my other 24" 1080p monitors in Portrait, so I can read lengthy docs easier for work.
so its more a personal dislike, not a functional one. =D


----------



## Riadon

The issue definitely has something to do with a 330 MHz pixel clock, as I am able to boot at 86 Hz with tightened timings with a pixel clock of 329.5640, but the second I go to 87 Hz and cross 330, I can't boot. I am able to boot as 81 Hz at normal timings with a pixel clock of 326.2939 MHz, but I can't boot at 82 Hz at normal timings with a pixel clock of 330.3222 MHz.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookieboyeli*
> 
> Yes, I switched to an XB271HU (refurb on ebay, $500+tax) although I feared it would be a sidegrade, it was MOST DEFINITELY an upgrade. The colors are so amazing, the pixel response time is MIND BLOWING, THE INPUT LAG is non existent. it turns on so much quicker, it adjusts so much better. My only regred is not getting one sooner.
> 
> Just for emphasis I'll say it again THE COLORS ARE FREAKING AMAZING. it's like going from TN to IPS all over again - or maybe even further. the jump is so huge even with my Qnix calibrated and all that. The gamma and contrast on the XB271HU is lightyears ahead of the Qnix.
> 
> It's _completely unaffordable_, but it's also completely worth it. Go broke getting it, for real.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 months later and that "new awesome thing" feeling just won't wear off. It's awesome every time I turn it on.
> 
> Not in stock on ebay ATM, but it always comes back in. Just search XB271HU, include buy it now only, sort by lowest price and you'll find it sold by Acer Refurbished when it's back in stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT Permalink: ebay.to/28NW9C2


Nice to hear that. I'm goign to get the ROG pg279q as that's the only one I can get here in South Africa. Let's hope i get a panel without massive Back light bleed. There is only 1 left here as all sold out ATM. The shop told me they will keep it for me. I'm sure the 165hz will be a huge upgrade from my 96-110hz and not to mention the added benefit of ULMB and G-sync (I know you can only use one or the other). I think if I play bo2 with my buddies once in a while the ULMB will be of good use to me maybe even in bf4 due to the graphics settings I use I will get 120fps most of the time.

Again Thanks for the comment. I'm not to worried about the costs. I still think the Qnix qx2710 has outstanding quality for what you pay at least mine has so I will keep it as either a second monitor or take it to work.

Can anyone tell me if the Qnix qx2710 monitor will work with 4770k onboard graphics if I use displayport to DVI? The qnix i have only comes with DVI.


----------



## titanuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> my hibernation has been off since day one, dont like the .sys file size it creates.


@HyeVltg3

It has NOTHING to do with Pro - again it's because hibernation is off. Yours is there because you have it enabled but not active. Run a cmd prompt as admin type powercfg -h off
this will turn off hibernation as in -h(ibernation) OFF then go to power options, additional settings, choose what the power buttons do. ... You won't have that option anymore. Conversely if Riadon does the same but uses powercfg -h on he WILL have the option.

@ Riadon from what I've briefly read, it does seem to be something to do with Nvidia and 330.333 clocks. Did you try ....."under "Manage 3D Settings" in global settings, change the "Power management mode" from adaptive to prefer maximum performance...."

Rgds.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *titanuk*
> 
> @HyeVltg3
> 
> It has NOTHING to do with Pro - again it's because hibernation is off. Yours is there because you have it enabled but not active. Run a cmd prompt as admin type powercfg -h off
> this will turn off hibernation as in -h(ibernation) OFF then go to power options, additional settings, choose what the power buttons do. ... You won't have that option anymore. Conversely if Riadon does the same but uses powercfg -h on he WILL have the option.
> 
> @ Riadon from what I've briefly read, it does seem to be something to do with Nvidia and 330.333 clocks. Did you try ....."under "Manage 3D Settings" in global settings, change the "Power management mode" from adaptive to prefer maximum performance...."
> 
> Rgds.


Just tried, didn't make a difference


----------



## dude0014

Hmm. It's now booting up from shutdown without issues @ 99Hz. Restart causes flashing color loop still though. Didn't do anything, on driver 368.39 currently (G1 GTX 1080)


----------



## Langeon

im having the same issues as stated before on my GTX 1070. Cant get above 330mhz pixel clock. If I test it on http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping it also won't recognize that i use more than 60hz for some reason.


----------



## dude0014

So it started hapening again randomly. Flashing color screen on boot @ 99 Hz. Solution : Spam "Enter" key from boot. Works for now


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> So it started hapening again randomly. Flashing color screen on boot @ 99 Hz. Solution : Spam "Enter" key from boot. Works for now


Yep, that worked for my friend. Didn't work for me, however, I have to switch to a different monitor to boot if it happens to me.

What brand is your motherboard?


----------



## Riadon

To everyone having my issue, we need to make NVIDIA aware of this because that's the only way this will ever be fixed.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Yep, that worked for my friend. Didn't work for me, however, I have to switch to a different monitor to boot if it happens to me.
> 
> What brand is your motherboard?


Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7. There in my sig


----------



## drathian

I responded and bumped the thread again.


----------



## BulletSponge

I bumped as well. For those who have not seen Riadon's GeForce forums thread on the issue here is a link.


----------



## riverplatejr

Hey guys, so what is the difference between the "Off-grade" version of the QNIX and the normal version? Like what about it makes it worth $50 less. Would it be safer to stick with the more expensive one?


----------



## zeeee4

JUST RECEIVED AN "OFF-GRADE" PANEL. its perfect!!!! No flaws what so ever. I literally got it set it up and immediately went into the NVIDIA control panel and overclocked to 96hz NO PROBLEM. ALSO does 110hz but 115 and 120 get green lines everywhere! THIS IS SO SICK!!! Im just wondering is it possible to achieve 120hz on this panel? Is there certain things i can try to achieve those? I would love a 120hz panel with 1440p for LOL WHAT like 270 CAD$


----------



## zeeee4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riverplatejr*
> 
> Hey guys, so what is the difference between the "Off-grade" version of the QNIX and the normal version? Like what about it makes it worth $50 less. Would it be safer to stick with the more expensive one?


Hey just got an off-grade panel. Message the seller telling them you want the best of the "off-grade" panels since they have a lot in stock they can send you a picture of ones they can ship i got a call from south korea and this girl helped me out, bought one they said it had a slight yellow spot on it but iTS PERFECT, I CANT see any flaw with it so YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY~


----------



## riverplatejr

Okay thanks, Zee.

On another note, I just purchased a GTX 1070 and it's my understanding that there is a driver issue with the card that causes the QNIX monitor to **** up on computer restart once it gets above a certain clock rate (330MHz). Would it still be worth looking into getting a monitor like this? Does the function of the monitor still work okay if you clock it up after startup? I planned on getting a 1080p 144Hz monitor along with the QNIX.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riverplatejr*
> 
> Okay thanks, Zee.
> 
> On another note, I just purchased a GTX 1070 and it's my understanding that there is a driver issue with the card that causes the QNIX monitor to **** up on computer restart once it gets above a certain clock rate (330MHz). Would it still be worth looking into getting a monitor like this? Does the function of the monitor still work okay if you clock it up after startup? I planned on getting a 1080p 144Hz monitor along with the QNIX.


The monitor can hit 80 Hz, 81 Hz fine and restart perfectly at stock timings with Pascal, but you will have trouble loading into Windows at any refresh rate past that, as 82 Hz or higher will surpass a 330 MHz pixel clock. Once you are loaded into windows, your overclock is limited by your panel rather than by Pascal, but if you forget to lower your pixel clock below 330 MHz and restart or shut your computer down at above 81 Hz, you will get a flashing screen in place of the Windows welcome screen.


----------



## riverplatejr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> The monitor can hit 80 Hz, 81 Hz fine and restart perfectly at stock timings with Pascal, but you will have trouble loading into Windows at any refresh rate past that, as 82 Hz or higher will surpass a 330 MHz pixel clock. Once you are loaded into windows, your overclock is limited by your panel rather than by Pascal, but if you forget to lower your pixel clock below 330 MHz and restart or shut your computer down at above 81 Hz, you will get a flashing screen in place of the Windows welcome screen.


How does it feel about just going to sleep and not restarting? And if I were to make the 1080p screen my main startup screen, would the QNIX still wig out? If so, could I just log in via the monitor that works and reduce the clock speed of the QNIX? Also, would unplugging the QNIX at startup and plugging it back in once windows is loaded avoid the issue?


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riverplatejr*
> 
> *How does it feel about just going to sleep and not restarting?*
> 
> It should be alright, as going to sleep doesn't log you out of Windows, but I don't put my computer to sleep so I can't say that for sure. I might test it later, but right now it would be very inconvenient.
> 
> *And if I were to make the 1080p screen my main startup screen, would the QNIX still wig out?*
> 
> Not sure, but if so you would probably be able to fix it by just unplugging the QNIX and leaving the 1080p screen plugged in. The QNIX would most likely be fixed upon reconnecting.
> 
> *If so, could I just log in via the monitor that works and reduce the clock speed of the QNIX?*
> 
> Once you're logged in via the monitor that works, you won't have to reduce the clock speed, because the issue is only present while logging into Windows.
> 
> *Also, would unplugging the QNIX at startup and plugging it back in once windows is loaded avoid the issue?*
> 
> If the QNIX was your only monitor, this wouldn't fix the issue. However, if you unplug the QNIX and leave the other monitor plugged in, Windows should just default to that monitor and it will work out fine.


----------



## drathian

The issues aren't a big deal if you have multiple monitors. It's more if this is your only monitor that the issues are a big PITA.


----------



## zeeee4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riverplatejr*
> 
> Okay thanks, Zee.
> 
> On another note, I just purchased a GTX 1070 and it's my understanding that there is a driver issue with the card that causes the QNIX monitor to **** up on computer restart once it gets above a certain clock rate (330MHz). Would it still be worth looking into getting a monitor like this? Does the function of the monitor still work okay if you clock it up after startup? I planned on getting a 1080p 144Hz monitor along with the QNIX.


Ive heard theres a bios setting that can affect this aswell, yeah im super concerned about this aswell since I MAY be getting a gtx 1070 as well, but 1070 has these issues i would rather buy the new AMD cards because this monitor is TOO SEXY AT 1440P 105HZ FOR ME


----------



## Ptomerty

A question:

The new RX 480s (at least, the reference editions) do NOT have a DVI port. Would connecting an ACTIVE DP adapter still allow me to enjoy the OC'd QX2710?

Also, I'm surprised off-grade is still like normal -- I've heard it can be much worse than typical QX2710s.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ptomerty*
> 
> A question:
> 
> The new RX 480s (at least, the reference editions) do NOT have a DVI port. Would connecting an ACTIVE DP adapter still allow me to enjoy the OC'd QX2710?
> 
> Also, I'm surprised off-grade is still like normal -- I've heard it can be much worse than typical QX2710s.


No DVI needed for OC'ing on some of the newer versions. QNIX QHD2730R ZERO DP 27" 2560x1440 WQHD DVI HDMI DP Monitor. I kind of want one of these myself, but am still on the fence. I'd hate to order one and find it has the same issues over DP some Pascal owners are experiencing over DVI.


----------



## Ptomerty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> No DVI needed for OC'ing on some of the newer versions. QNIX QHD2730R ZERO DP 27" 2560x1440 WQHD DVI HDMI DP Monitor. I kind of want one of these myself, but am still on the fence. I'd hate to order one and find it has the same issues over DP some Pascal owners are experiencing over DVI.


Damn...if I only I had $300...Sadly I have to get the $220 one if I want a korean monitor at all.


----------



## bbdale

Having the same issue with my 110 hz OC going bonkers on startup. Hoping for a fix. I'm using the G1 1070.


----------



## networkn

I bought a 1070 yesterday, and an active non powered adapter in the hope of getting my 3 x Q270 Monitors going. The HDMI and DVI-D work, but with the adapter plugged into DP, neither of the other 2 work. I assume I need an active powered adapter which I can't find easily in NZ. I am considering a new Monitor that has DP so I can connect it natively, but on the ebay auctions I found it states on some auctions that only DVI-D supports 1440p so I am thinking that means no [email protected] 1440P can anyone confirm/deny?

I also saw zero bezel samsung PLS 27" 1440p monitors, and they look nice with a better stand, anyone compared between those at the Q270's and have an opinion?


----------



## WrathOfGod1337

I noticed the last change log for this thread was back in Oct 2014. Are these Korean monitors worth the gamble? It seems so, if you go by their Ebay popularity, but they're so cheap it seems too good to be true.

The sheer number of different models is also extremely confusing, and I'd pay a little extra for a better, high quality model, since brands like Dell/LG have these kind of 27" monitors for like 500+ lol.

What do you guys recommend as likely the best one? And are any actually IPS? Prefer screen quality over all else, wouldn't even mind sacrificing overclock ability for it.

EDIT: Will be using a 1070, if it matters. Thinking these might be perfect to go with that card, and I shouldn't need G-Sync anyway with such a powerful card.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WrathOfGod1337*
> 
> I noticed the last change log for this thread was back in Oct 2014. Are these Korean monitors worth the gamble? It seems so, if you go by their Ebay popularity, but they're so cheap it seems too good to be true.
> 
> The sheer number of different models is also extremely confusing, and I'd pay a little extra for a better, high quality model, since brands like Dell/LG have these kind of 27" monitors for like 500+ lol.
> 
> What do you guys recommend as likely the best one? And are any actually IPS? Prefer screen quality over all else, wouldn't even mind sacrificing overclock ability for it.
> 
> EDIT: Will be using a 1070, if it matters. Thinking these might be perfect to go with that card, and I shouldn't need G-Sync anyway with such a powerful card.


Spend some time reading the thread to form your own opinion on the monitor.
They arent the BEST money can buy, they are the best $300 can buy.

I really like mine, but have you read a few posts above yours, about the issue with the Qnix and Gtx 1000 series...?


----------



## Zenifyx

I've just purchased one of these (off-grade) for use as a second monitor.
Opted for the off-grade panel to save abit more cash, fingers crossed the defects aren't too bad.
It set me back about $200sgd (~$150 usd), shipping inclusive, so I figured why not?


----------



## Ptomerty

Perfect Pixel X-Star DP2710 on sale for $189.90:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-27-Monitor-Glossy-/321135502506?hash=item4ac52ae4aa:g:jPYAAOxygj5SeX6w

Note: This monitor is GLOSSY.

Considering getting this over the Matte $210 one that I was looking at.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ptomerty*
> 
> A question:
> 
> The new RX 480s (at least, the reference editions) do NOT have a DVI port. Would connecting an ACTIVE DP adapter still allow me to enjoy the OC'd QX2710?
> 
> Also, I'm surprised off-grade is still like normal -- I've heard it can be much worse than typical QX2710s.


AMD said that board partners will have cards with dvi.
There are active display port adapters that work just fine. Unfortunately none of them will let you overclock.


----------



## jstutman

Hey all. Curious. I upgraded my video card to the r9 390 and the xstar won't display. It will display bios just fine but once the windows logo comes up, the screen goes blank. My dell monitor continues to work. When I put my 7870 Tahiti back inside the computer these issues go away. This is Windows 10 Pro.

Edit: I can get the monitor to stay on sometimes but when you go to launch a game. You hear the device disconnect sound and the monitor turns off. I am using latest drivers and have done a clean uninstall using driver removal software in safe mode.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jstutman*
> 
> Hey all. Curious. I upgraded my video card to the r9 390 and the xstar won't display. It will display bios just fine but once the windows logo comes up, the screen goes blank. My dell monitor continues to work. When I put my 7870 Tahiti back inside the computer these issues go away. This is Windows 10 Pro.
> 
> Edit: I can get the monitor to stay on sometimes but when you go to launch a game. You hear the device disconnect sound and the monitor turns off. I am using latest drivers and have done a clean uninstall using driver removal software in safe mode.


If you JUST installed it before the post.

Go into BIOS and disable iGPU, and set Display Output to PCIe 1st Slot
some BIOS are weird and dont switch over till you Clear CMOS (<<< Clear CMOS if the above doesnt work, or you cant find those settings in BIOS)

If you need further assistance, post your Motherboard name/model
OR
Look for CLR_CMOS in the Manual or on the board, it should either be 3 pins, 2 of which are connected together via a Jumper: Turn off PSU, Unplug system, move the Jumper from pins 2-3 to 1-2 (or other way around, some mobos are different) count to 10 the move the Jumper back to original position. Plug in, Power on, You may need to Press F2 to enter BIOS and configure (Just "Load Optimized Defaults" and press F10 to save and exit)

Some mobos have just two pins, you need to connect them, I usually just take a flathead screwdriver and bridge the two pins, count to 5 and boot. most of the time it works, just have to make sure you 're touching both with the flat edge of the screwdriver. (some mobos have a LED that lights up to indicate you're bridging the two pins, MSI Z97 had em)

Higher end mobos have a physical button you click in to clear CMOS.

of course, always unplug and machine must be off when you clear CMOS, just press the power button to dissipate any residual electricity still left after the unplug.


----------



## kmetek

Any of this monitors available to buy in Europe because of custom tax?


----------



## DanT623

Hey guys, recently got my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 27"

Shipped to the UK, annoyingly had to pay £39 tax (around $51),

Everything is perfect with it, got it connected to my DVI on my H87M mobo, currently using on-board graphics to the CPU i have as am waiting on 1070 prices to lower. the igpu is INTEL 4600 GRAPHICS. The issue i am having is getting it to run at the native 2160x1440 res. I know that my mobo, and the intel 4790k I have as the cpu support this, it just isnt showing up and the max i can put it too is 1080p

Any ideas? I dont think that it is the fact im using intergrated graphics.. but i could be wrong..

Other than that great monitor which i would recommend! Crazy big and finding it hard to adjust but will eventually..


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanT623*
> 
> Hey guys, recently got my QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II Multi TRUE10 27"
> 
> Shipped to the UK, annoyingly had to pay £39 tax (around $51),
> 
> Everything is perfect with it, got it connected to my DVI on my H87M mobo, currently using on-board graphics to the CPU i have as am waiting on 1070 prices to lower. the igpu is INTEL 4600 GRAPHICS. The issue i am having is getting it to run at the native 2160x1440 res. I know that my mobo, and the intel 4790k I have as the cpu support this, it just isnt showing up and the max i can put it too is 1080p
> 
> Any ideas? I dont think that it is the fact im using intergrated graphics.. but i could be wrong..
> 
> Other than that great monitor which i would recommend! Crazy big and finding it hard to adjust but will eventually..


When you bought it did you read the requirements? It usually says requires dedicated GPU to support 1440p res


----------



## Ptomerty

Last question before I buy:

Does the US pay any taxes, fees, etc.? It's not listed in the OP.


----------



## DanT623

It does say that yes, but I read all over the net about people using onboard graphics, and as you can see, it does work, but yeah just getting the native 2160 res isnt working! it could mean that to get the full potential i need a dedicated gpu though yes?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanT623*
> 
> It does say that yes, but I read all over the net about people using onboard graphics, and as you can see, it does work, but yeah just getting the native 2160 res isnt working! it could mean that to get the full potential i need a dedicated gpu though yes?


2160? Are you asking 4k?? 4096x2160!
1440p the qnix native, 2560x1440
And iirc iGPUs don't do more than 1920x1080
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ptomerty*
> 
> Last question before I buy:
> 
> Does the US pay any taxes, fees, etc.? It's not listed in the OP.


Apparently US and Korea have a free trade deal so no taxes at door.
I'm from Canada and like the guy above I paid $50 at my door for the package


----------



## DanT623

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> 2160? Are you asking 4k?? 4096x2160!
> 1440p the qnix native, 2560x1440


my mistake yes! Ah so i guess I will have to wait till I have a dedicated GPU, bloody 1070 prices need to hurry themselves down!









It is perfectly usable for anyone wondering though with iGPU 4600, intel 4790k just no native 1440 display.

Did actually manage a custom res of 2560x1440 but had to lower the refresh rate massively so yes i am guessing that it is an intergrated graphics issue.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanT623*
> 
> my mistake yes! Ah so i guess I will have to wait till I have a dedicated GPU, bloody 1070 prices need to hurry themselves down!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is perfectly usable for anyone wondering though with iGPU 4600, intel 4790k just no native 1440 display.
> 
> Did actually manage a custom res of 2560x1440 but had to lower the refresh rate massively so yes i am guessing that it is an intergrated graphics issue.


Ya I boxed the qnix away while I wait for RX 480, have been running off the 4790k iGPU for the past 1.5weeks 1080p looks really bad on a 1440p monitor,think it has to do with the increased amount of pixels, 1080p looks blurry, like playing 480p media on 1080p, the stretching is noticible.


----------



## TheGlow

So how are these monitors now?
I was looking to go 120Hz+ 1440p 27".
I had gotten the Acer XB270HU TN version thinking it was the IPS version since all the reviews I found were for the PLS version, not even noting a TN exists.
Anyways, it had 3 dead pixels and on the 2nd day and only that day, the lower left corner had a dead backlight area reaching up 1 inch. It went away but at $570 I wasnt havent any of that.
It had Gsync but Im on an r9 380 until I get a 1070/1080 so i didnt get a chance to use it.

Is gsync worth it? I was leaning towards the Dell S2716DG but this monitor seems to meet those requirements at a fraction of the price.
Whats the common overclock rate? Is it a lottery where only some go over 100 or is 120 a common limit?
Sold out, but I see newegg has is $200. What is the average price?


----------



## brucethemoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGlow*
> 
> So how are these monitors now?
> I was looking to go 120Hz+ 1440p 27".
> I had gotten the Acer XB270HU TN version thinking it was the IPS version since all the reviews I found were for the PLS version, not even noting a TN exists.
> Anyways, it had 3 dead pixels and on the 2nd day and only that day, the lower left corner had a dead backlight area reaching up 1 inch. It went away but at $570 I wasnt havent any of that.
> It had Gsync but Im on an r9 380 until I get a 1070/1080 so i didnt get a chance to use it.
> 
> Is gsync worth it? I was leaning towards the Dell S2716DG but this monitor seems to meet those requirements at a fraction of the price.
> Whats the common overclock rate? Is it a lottery where only some go over 100 or is 120 a common limit?
> Sold out, but I see newegg has is $200. What is the average price?


The Qnixes, specifically, are kind of obsolete, as some other brands of overclockable Korean monitors with better panels can be had for the same price.

Honestly, I'm not up-to-date on the newer brands, but you should check the Crossover 2795 thread.


----------



## Riadon

Reposting this thread, as NVIDIA responded to it and needs info on the systems of those having the startup problem.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946217/geforce-1000-series/gtx-10-series-can-t-boot-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/2/?offset=27#4914731


----------



## drathian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> Reposting this thread, as NVIDIA responded to it and needs info on the systems of those having the startup problem.
> 
> https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946217/geforce-1000-series/gtx-10-series-can-t-boot-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/2/?offset=27#4914731


I'm just glad they're acknowledging it.


----------



## keyww

Does anybody have experience fixing the blinking blue led issue?

What's happening now is that my Qnix2710 will cycle between displaying and not displaying the desktop (blinking blue led, no boot screen when starting up). Prior to debezeling the monitors, I tested them separately and they all work fine (@60Hz).

I have tried using CRU to set custom resolution (60Hz), as well as swapping the power supplies between the 3 Qnix monitors, to no avail. Does anyone know if there's any other ways I could test the monitor to ascertain the problem? The monitor with the issue is connected via Dual-link DVI-D to my GPU (HIS HD6850). The Dual-link DVI-D ports on my GPU has been tested and is working (had both monitors connected via DVI-D to this GPU before I completed this build).


----------



## DarkFord

Hi,

I just received the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte Panel], single input-dual dvi port.
I tried overclock to 96hz but found part of the screen on the left have weird artifact,
need to check with the experts in the forum, does that mean this panel that I got is unable to overclock to 96hz without this issue? Screen look good at 75hz.
I followed the guide in this thread, tried CRU and NVCP method.
Pairing this monitor with GTX980 Ti


----------



## Aru3

Hello! I accidentally my Q-nix DP2710 monitor some time ago. It was running at 120 Hz JUST fine, for months and months, and then I destroyed it with one fateful misclick. (I set the refresh too high by accident, IMMEDIATELY fixed it, but alas it was too late because it failed entirely shortly afterward.) I adored this monitor, so, so much... it is by far the best I have ever owned. My most prideful purchase.

So, I need to know how to fix it. I tried searching this thread but, there are so many pages. I was wondering if someone could help, or at least point me to relevant posts? I have a soldering iron, I can buy a multimeter if needed. But since this is a popular monitor, I presume that others have had similar issues, and already know where the problem is. So, what component do I need to replace on the board, and where is it? A capacitor? A transistor? And where might I find a suitable replacement? I presume, that no ordinary replacement will do, since the first one burned out. That I will need a high quality replacement, something that can handle very high frequency operation, to help prevent this from happening again. Please, can anyone help? My monitor has been dead for... I don't know, many months now, and I desperately want it back, especially since I will soon be getting a graphics card upgrade. The high quality LED lit IPS panel, the low input latency (DVI-D and no on-screen menus), the high refresh rate, and at 2560 x 1440, it was intoxicating, everything I could possibly want in a monitor. And with only one dead pixel, not even in the center zone. Except that I broke it.


----------



## Zenifyx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeeee4*
> 
> JUST RECEIVED AN "OFF-GRADE" PANEL. its perfect!!!! No flaws what so ever. I literally got it set it up and immediately went into the NVIDIA control panel and overclocked to 96hz NO PROBLEM. ALSO does 110hz but 115 and 120 get green lines everywhere! THIS IS SO SICK!!! Im just wondering is it possible to achieve 120hz on this panel? Is there certain things i can try to achieve those? I would love a 120hz panel with 1440p for LOL WHAT like 270 CAD$


I have just received an "off-grade" panel, purchased from AccessoriesWhole, and I have to say, I echo this sentiment.
It's perfect, no dead pixels, no tint, no flaw whatsoever as far as I could see except for the minor backlight bleed in the corners, despite ordering an off-grade panel.
Heck, even my MG279Q panel has more flaws than this thing.
And it only cost 150 US dollars too!

Time to try some overclocking next. =D


----------



## zalskin

I cant change any color settings, something is overriding it, any help with this?
Edit: uninstalled Flux now works


----------



## Riadon

"Some gamers using our latest Pascal based GPUs connected to high refresh rate monitor have reported that the highest refresh rates or resolutions are not available when connected using DVI. This behavior is due to limited bandwidth available on the DVI cables. NVIDIA recommends that these high performance monitors be connected using DP instead of DVI. DP natively has much higher performance and will support the full capabilities of modern monitors.

*In addition, NVIDIA is updating our driver to attempt to run at higher clocks on older DVI cables and enable all monitor modes. However, this high clock behavior is beyond the cable specification and depending on cable and monitor quality, may be unstable or non-functional.* "

NVIDIA's latest response to the Pascal 330 MHz DL-DVI issue, so hopefully this means it will be getting fixed.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946217/geforce-1000-series/gtx-10-series-can-t-boot-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/3


----------



## Jabova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riadon*
> 
> "Some gamers using our latest Pascal based GPUs connected to high refresh rate monitor have reported that the highest refresh rates or resolutions are not available when connected using DVI. This behavior is due to limited bandwidth available on the DVI cables. NVIDIA recommends that these high performance monitors be connected using DP instead of DVI. DP natively has much higher performance and will support the full capabilities of modern monitors.
> 
> *In addition, NVIDIA is updating our driver to attempt to run at higher clocks on older DVI cables and enable all monitor modes. However, this high clock behavior is beyond the cable specification and depending on cable and monitor quality, may be unstable or non-functional.* "
> 
> NVIDIA's latest response to the Pascal 330 MHz DL-DVI issue, so hopefully this means it will be getting fixed.
> 
> https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946217/geforce-1000-series/gtx-10-series-can-t-boot-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/3


I'm not technically savvy enough to understand the bandwidth limit of DVI, but, why would it not work with the 10 series if it worked with older cards using the same DVI cables?


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabova*
> 
> I'm not technically savvy enough to understand the bandwidth limit of DVI, but, why would it not work with the 10 series if it worked with older cards using the same DVI cables?


That's just NVIDIA's way of shifting the blame from their cards to DVI. They put artificial limits in their driver based on the stated limits of DVI, but those limits are far too conservative and well below what DVI can actually handle.


----------



## drathian

Looks like it won't be in the next driver update.


----------



## brucethemoose

Can't ya'll just patch the pixel clock limit?

Low DVI pixel clock limits have always been a problem with Radeons, even after several people contacted AMD about it. But I just get around it with Toasty's patch.


----------



## Riadon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucethemoose*
> 
> Can't ya'll just patch the pixel clock limit?
> 
> Low DVI pixel clock limits have always been a problem with Radeons, even after several people contacted AMD about it. But I just get around it with Toasty's patch.


If only it were that simple


----------



## landon2525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkFord*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just received the QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Matte Panel], single input-dual dvi port.
> I tried overclock to 96hz but found part of the screen on the left have weird artifact,
> need to check with the experts in the forum, does that mean this panel that I got is unable to overclock to 96hz without this issue? Screen look good at 75hz.
> I followed the guide in this thread, tried CRU and NVCP method.
> Pairing this monitor with GTX980 Ti


Hey, I would take the panel apart, disconnect the lvds cables, shield them if necessary, and reconnect them. I had a similar problem and that fixed it.


----------



## Feyla

Hi guys,

I have 2 QNIX monitors, and have just upgraded my graphics card to a 1070. Unfortunately this only has one DVI-D slot. I don't game on the 2nd monitor do I don't mind if it only runs at 60hz, which adapter should I get? Or will any work


----------



## DarkFord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *landon2525*
> 
> Hey, I would take the panel apart, disconnect the lvds cables, shield them if necessary, and reconnect them. I had a similar problem and that fixed it.


Any guide on how to shield the cable? I am not so sure how to do it.


----------



## landon2525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkFord*
> 
> Any guide on how to shield the cable? I am not so sure how to do it.


It should have some shielding on it (at least mine did). I just used some 3m friction tape and re-wrapped the lvds cable with that. The shielding that was on it already had an open seam. I just closed that up.

Amazon link for the 3m friction tape.

If your LVDS doesn't have any shielding 3M has some scotch 24 shielding tape you can use.

Amazon link for the 3M Scotch 24 Tape


----------



## landon2525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkFord*
> 
> Any guide on how to shield the cable? I am not so sure how to do it.


First you should get a larger gage DVI-D cable than the one that came with the monitor. That is the first thing to do.

The stock cable cannot support the higher pixel clocks.

I think I have this 24 gage cable.


----------



## iMMJJ

Hi,

i had this monitor before one year and a half
and always clocked on 75hz at least

before 1 month or 1 month and a half
i returned from work
and the monitro QNIX32 is not working ..

took it to someone who know about TVs and Monitor and said it needs new PCB ..

where can i find spare parts for this monitor ?

thank you in advance


----------



## landon2525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMMJJ*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> i had this monitor before one year and a half
> and always clocked on 75hz at least
> 
> before 1 month or 1 month and a half
> i returned from work
> and the monitro QNIX32 is not working ..
> 
> took it to someone who know about TVs and Monitor and said it needs new PCB ..
> 
> where can i find spare parts for this monitor ?
> 
> thank you in advance


I tried for a very long time to get a replacement PCB. The best advice I have for you is to contact the seller you purchased the monitor from to see if they will sell you a replacement.

Should be about $75 USD.


----------



## iMMJJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *landon2525*
> 
> I tried for a very long time to get a replacement PCB. The best advice I have for you is to contact the seller you purchased the monitor from to see if they will sell you a replacement.
> 
> Should be about $75 USD.


I wasn't the first user of this monitor .. so i don't know the original seller

would sell PCB for 75$ ?

can i buy it from any seller of this monitor ? or only from the one i bought it from ?


----------



## jstutman

*Windows does not detect the Monitors when Identifying
Other tidbit. I can get this monitor to come back on most of the time when I boot into the Bios and make a change and then reboot but it only stays on till windows starts booting up.

AsRock Z77 Pro4
3570K
Powercolor R9 390- Also have a 7870 Tahiti to troubleshoot with
Evga 750W G2 -Also have my PPC 750w PSU
X-STAR DP2710- Now have 2 of them to troubleshoot with

I have actually had this video card and monitor for awhile. It worked for for about 10 months. It worked fine until a month ago when I updated my Drivers. Prior to hardware troubleshooting I tried rolling back drivers. using drive sweeper in safe mode. reinstalling windows 10-no change
Here is where it get's even more weird. The monitor will come on sometimes when I restart the PC and then turn off as soon as the driver's would load.(blinking) What I have done. Replaced my PPC 750w PSU with the EVGA 750 G2. Figured, maybe since my psu is getting older maybe it was the issue. No change Ordered another X-Star Monitor this is when it gets weird. It does the same thing to this monitor I reinstalled windows 10 again and then windows 7 to see if it was just the windows 10 drivers and I can't get the monitors to come one. The only thing I can think of is that for some reason these monitors suddenly stopped liking the 390. So I reinstalled my 7870 Tahiti and now it won't turn on these monitors, which it used to. All in the same my Dell ST2410 has continued to work with no issues.


----------



## DarkFord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *landon2525*
> 
> First you should get a larger gage DVI-D cable than the one that came with the monitor. That is the first thing to do.
> 
> The stock cable cannot support the higher pixel clocks.
> 
> I think I have this 24 gage cable.


Yup, I bought the Monoprice 3ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cablefrom Amazon to try it out, hopefully it allow me to overclock higher, 3ft or 6ft doesn't make a difference right?


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkFord*
> 
> Yup, I bought the Monoprice 3ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cablefrom Amazon to try it out, hopefully it allow me to overclock higher, 3ft or 6ft doesn't make a difference right?


Stock cable works fine, I bought into this thick cable nonsense and bought an expensive thick monoprice cable which is more like a solid rod cause of how thick it is. No damn difference, highest mine gets to is 99Hz. Went back to stock cable rather than the monstrous monoprice.


----------



## DarkFord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Stock cable works fine, I bought into this thick cable nonsense and bought an expensive thick monoprice cable which is more like a solid rod cause of how thick it is. No damn difference, highest mine gets to is 99Hz. Went back to stock cable rather than the monstrous monoprice.


Oh well, my monitor can't get pass 85hz, so trying out this cable in hope to overclock higher.


----------



## XMorsX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 11:19 totallydubbed talks about his BLB, and says thats not really it....that looks very much like mine, do I have BLB all wrong?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The photo is ridiculously overexposed, we cannot judge based on it.Try taking one that immitates what you see as closely as possible.


----------



## xacloman

Hi guys, i was wondering if i could get a little help.

I tried searching in this thread but could not find anyone with the same problem.

I am trying to OC my qx2710 monitor. I know in the past i was able to, but since rebuilding my computer and changing to windows 10, i have never re-OC it.

I have updated amd drivers, and have followed the steps in this guide multiple times now. I applied the amd driver patch, restarted, added a new profile with CRU, restarted, and then when trying to add a custom resolution in amd drivers, get a popup that says "the custom resolution settings are not compatible with this display". I have tried multiple times with different refresh rates, but always get this message.

On the properties tab in amd driver settings, it says the maximum reported refresh rate is 120hz, but when trying to set the custom resolution to that, it gives me the error message. I feel like i cant be the frist person to run into this, but still cant find anything similar happening to people. Maybe im just not searching correctly.

If anyone could help or point me in a direction that would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## causese1990

Btw did anyone figure out why a good gpu is necessary to overclock it? doesn't that mean that the monitor draws power from the gpu in order to maintain high refresh rate?

I'm curious how far I get in terms of refresh rate/hz using a 1070 gtx

getting my 1070 gtx soon so I can test it and will report back

*is the korean 1920x1080 monitor affected by the bug?*
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-star-DP2414LED-Full-HD-Gaming-Monitor-24-144Hz-Multi-Port-DVI-HDMI-RGB-/221822308188?hash=item33a5a3cf5c


----------



## landon2525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkFord*
> 
> Yup, I bought the Monoprice 3ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cablefrom Amazon to try it out, hopefully it allow me to overclock higher, 3ft or 6ft doesn't make a difference right?


I would imagine that the longer cable would not work as well as a longer cable given all other variables are held constant.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMMJJ*
> 
> I wasn't the first user of this monitor .. so i don't know the original seller
> 
> would sell PCB for 75$ ?
> 
> can i buy it from any seller of this monitor ? or only from the one i bought it from ?


I think it would be reasonable to contact Green Sum on ebay. They might be able to get you a replacement PCB.

If that doesn't work then I know that you can get another PCB to drive the monitor, but it will require lots of research to insure that you get one that will work. I do not personally know much about replacement PCBs that are not direct replacements for the original.

If you choose to get a non-stock PCB please update this thread! Im sure there are loads of people that would love to know.

Good Luck!


----------



## egyptionsr2buff

Hey guys so I kind of screwed up today while trying to remove the stand. I lifted the LCD panel too far to get to the stand and ended up removing the two delicate black wires from the back of my monitor. I tried looking at a few videos online but my wires look completely different. This monitor is about 2 years old and the wires look like laptop slide in wires. I tried sliding back in and taping them but when I turn on the monitor I don't get any picture. The computer Identifies the monitor and switches to a dual setup, the lights are working, and the monitor lcd receives a back light. But no picture is coming through


----------



## Solado

Hi everyone,

Just got myself a new QNIX2710LED 27" 1440P monitor. Not sure what's happened but I can't set the display to anything above 1080p? The lead provided looks like a DVI-D type connection which gives a display of 1080 144hz maximum.

I have tried using the AMD catalyst centre to create a 1440p setting but it refuses to even attempt it and just resets it's self to 1080p again. I have to use super resolution to get 1440p and then it just looks very blurry.

I am using a XFX R9 270X and tried both connections on the back for the DVI-D ports and tried the HDMI connection with no joy.

I have also tried uninstalling all the drivers for my GPU and reinstalling the latest









is my monitor faulty? or have I been scammed with a 1080p pannel?


----------



## arh2o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> Now I am set for my Evga 1080 that comes in sometime today!!! So stoked


Unfortunately, your 1080 will not run be able to run your monitor at anything higher than precisely 81hz. If you set it to 82hz you will not be able to boot into Windows and you'll have to safe mode and uninstall the Nvidia driver. This is due to a limitation in DVI-D and the newest Pascal cards. Luckily, a driver fix has been promised by Nvidia and should be coming in the next couple weeks.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946217/geforce-1000-series/gtx-10-series-can-t-boot-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/6/


----------



## roberts6910

Thanks for the info - I'm not too bothered by the wait. 80hz will suit me fine until the patch.


----------



## motorwayne

G'day from New Zealand, I have one of the early Qnic IPS 2710 panels and have been running it at 96hz for a few years and its been awesome...BUT two days ago my GTX780 sucked it and I had to go and buy another card, so I got the GTX 1070...Anyways, the Qnix still O/C to 96 no problemo, but when I restart my machine the screen goes all liney...verticals lines...I unplug, use the second monitor and fix the fresh rate back to 60, start again and O/C it fine, play games etc, but when I restart or turn off then on the machine, it does itr again.

Any pointers? Never did this with the GTX780

Cheers

P.S I'm using the Nvidia control panel to O/C


----------



## roberts6910

as outlined above - this is a known fault with the new cards that will be addressed in an upcoming patch. For now you cannot go above 81hz on an OC with dual link DVI connections.


----------



## arh2o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motorwayne*
> 
> G'day from New Zealand, I have one of the early Qnic IPS 2710 panels and have been running it at 96hz for a few years and its been awesome...BUT two days ago my GTX780 sucked it and I had to go and buy another card, so I got the GTX 1070...Anyways, the Qnix still O/C to 96 no problemo, but when I restart my machine the screen goes all liney...verticals lines...I unplug, use the second monitor and fix the fresh rate back to 60, start again and O/C it fine, play games etc, but when I restart or turn off then on the machine, it does itr again.
> 
> Any pointers? Never did this with the GTX780
> 
> Cheers
> 
> P.S I'm using the Nvidia control panel to O/C


I just posted about this above.


----------



## motorwayne

Another quick question, is the Evo II any better than the earlier Qnix?

Cheers


----------



## motorwayne

Sorry guys, just saw your posts, haven't been here in years and justr wnet and posted straight away...Good news the Nvidia is doing something about it...cheers


----------



## Solado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motorwayne*
> 
> Another quick question, is the Evo II any better than the earlier Qnix?
> 
> Cheers


My EVO II arrived today and it wont let me set the resolution over 1080p.


----------



## roberts6910

Based on the ebay listing you should have no issues with 1440. Can you snap a pic of the connection and your cable?

Also can you connect to an Nvidia setup and see if this is a GPU issue vs a panel issue? Any other computer you can test on? Seems strange to have the problem unless, and this is a wild guess, that your input PCB is faulty in some way limiting the signal.

Can you do the fakey 4k that it says it can?


----------



## Solado

Update:

I think there are *fake QNIX* monitors in circulation.

I have connected both DVI-D and HDMI to the monitor and it only supports 1080p and nothing above that. The image quality is blurry and not native. I hooked it up to my brothers machine which uses an Nvidia 970 and had the same problem with the monitor unable to go past 1080.

As you can see after connecting a DVI-D cable it shows my PC picking up a DVI-D connection but the monitor is picking up DVI only.



Here is the ports on the back of the monitor:


----------



## roberts6910

Dual link DVI is plenty to hit high refresh rates at 1440 so it isn't the cable. Sounds like a dud - possibly a bad input PCB - doubt it's the panel since it is working at 1080.

Since the 970 doesn't push the panel past 1080 my money is on a bad input PCB or TCON. Thousands of panels are run much higher on dual link DVI (and I ran several with an old 970 at 120hz).

Sorry may have to get a replacement unit mate. Be interested to see what is what on the internals (pics of the PCB, TCON, adn Panel sticker) to see what they are tossing in there.


----------



## Solado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> Dual link DVI is plenty to hit high refresh rates at 1440 so it isn't the cable. Sounds like a dud - possibly a bad input PCB - doubt it's the panel since it is working at 1080.
> 
> Since the 970 doesn't push the panel past 1080 my money is on a bad input PCB or TCON. Thousands of panels are run much higher on dual link DVI (and I ran several with an old 970 at 120hz).
> 
> Sorry may have to get a replacement unit mate. Be interested to see what is what on the internals (pics of the PCB, TCON, adn Panel sticker) to see what they are tossing in there.


I really hope not







I will have to ship it back to south korea, no idea to get my duty money back... I should have just got a branded 1440p.

I just ordered a replacement DVI-D cable and a HDMI 2.0 cable in a last attempt to try resolve it. If it is faulty I will have to just throw it as I have no idea how to return it.


----------



## motorwayne

Here is something *very* interesting (I think it is anyway)

I play DayZ, I run the monitor at 96mhz, I set v-sync to on in game and game runs at 96fps b/c the 1070 can drive it at that @1440
I made the custom refresh rate in the Nvidia control panel.

*So here is what happens*
Because of the bug with the pascal crashing O/C monitor on boot, I set refresh to standard 60hz, like normal, machine starts fine.
When I launch dayZ, the refresh rate kicks up to 96hz and when I finish playing it drops back down to 60hz!

How the heck does it do that? It's awesome.

I have checked the fps in game and sure enough, 96fps steady. I keep the control panel alive in the second monitor and watch it switching back and fourth.

Cheers


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cryticfarm*
> 
> My X-star just crapped out. I have the same problem as this guy from years ago (won't turn on after I woke up and tried to turn it on, no red standby light,, clicking noise):
> I've enjoyed this display for 1.5 years, but I'm not sure what to do now. I can't tell if it's a monitor or power supply problem... and I'm surprised this happened to anyone else yet. Actually, I was running this monitor at 110hz for ~16 hours a day with maximum brightness (I think most people don't use max brightness), so maybe power required for full brightness is what broke it. In any case, I'm not sure what to do now, whether there is a fix or replacement part I can use, or if I should just trash it.
> 
> IN the latter case, is there any good monitors to replace this monitor with besides another Qnix or x-star? Maybe the monitor landscape has changed in the last year?


this just happened to me. monitor would just continue clicking and make a popping or clicking sound. i left it doing that while i was looking up on google, after about 3min, the monitor turned on and it's been fine for 15min now.

could it be the power cord/supply? is there a good replacement on amazon someone can link?


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motorwayne*
> 
> Here is something *very* interesting (I think it is anyway)
> 
> I play DayZ, I run the monitor at 96mhz, I set v-sync to on in game and game runs at 96fps b/c the 1070 can drive it at that @1440
> I made the custom refresh rate in the Nvidia control panel.
> 
> *So here is what happens*
> Because of the bug with the pascal crashing O/C monitor on boot, I set refresh to standard 60hz, like normal, machine starts fine.
> When I launch dayZ, the refresh rate kicks up to 96hz and when I finish playing it drops back down to 60hz!
> 
> How the heck does it do that? It's awesome.
> 
> I have checked the fps in game and sure enough, 96fps steady. I keep the control panel alive in the second monitor and watch it switching back and fourth.
> 
> Cheers


Some games can run at non-desktop refresh rates and some can't (or don't). As long as the desktop refresh rate is less than 80Hz, reboots will be fine, and then the game can run at the higher available refresh rate.


----------



## roberts6910

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> this just happened to me. monitor would just continue clicking and make a popping or clicking sound. i left it doing that while i was looking up on google, after about 3min, the monitor turned on and it's been fine for 15min now.
> 
> could it be the power cord/supply? is there a good replacement on amazon someone can link?


I had a similar issue a while back and it was the input PCB that had failed. It caused the power supply to click with the green power light on the brick to kind of dim to each click. I have a total of 4 different Korean monitors and have had no issues with the bricks, but 3 of 4 input PCBs have failed on me since 2013. Now I have replacement parts I am happy with the IPS panels again.


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> I had a similar issue a while back and it was the input PCB that had failed. It caused the power supply to click with the green power light on the brick to kind of dim to each click. I have a total of 4 different Korean monitors and have had no issues with the bricks, but 3 of 4 input PCBs have failed on me since 2013. Now I have replacement parts I am happy with the IPS panels again.


i have absolutely no idea what that means. what is an input PCB? is this on the AC adapter? like i said, it was clicking for a while then it started working and has been working for few hours now. what would you recommend i should do? i would love to have a plan in case it happens again.

thanks for your reply

edit: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/20370#post_22817868

i found this and the member claims that a replacement of AC adapter fixed his problem so i'm hesitant to think it's something much more complex.


----------



## roberts6910

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solado*
> 
> I really hope not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have to ship it back to south korea, no idea to get my duty money back... I should have just got a branded 1440p.
> 
> I just ordered a replacement DVI-D cable and a HDMI 2.0 cable in a last attempt to try resolve it. If it is faulty I will have to just throw it as I have no idea how to return it.


That stinks! Dunno about the cables, seems strange that both would not push past 1080. If it doesn't work with new cables I would crack it open and look at the internals. If you could post up pics it would be helpful to others for sure - especially if they run into similar issues.

One quick question - you aren't connecting both DVI and HDMI at the same time correct? I assume not.


----------



## roberts6910

I mean the actual PCB inside the monitor housing could be failing. In my case, when the monitor did the clicking I thought first it was the power brick. I tested it and it was ok. So when it started up again I watched the brick and saw that the power light dimmed to the clicks (I could hear the panel clicking and the brick). I cannot say for sure your internals are failing on the monitor, only it sounds similar to my issue.

You would need to open the monitor and replace the internal PCB - the one you connect your GPU to the monitor. Of course, you won't need to do anything until it completely craps out on you and it may make it for a while still - who knows?









Now whether you can get the proper part depends entirely on what monitor you have and the LG panel actually used in it. The Koreans tend to mix and match panels and PCBs so saying you have X model from Y company won't tell us anything. You will need to crack it open and actually look at the white LG label on the back of the panel. I know of only one place to get LG PCBs and those are only good for a specific range of LG LM270WQ1 panels. There may be other resellers of replacement parts, but I only have the WQ1 panels so I have never had to look.


----------



## Solado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> That stinks! Dunno about the cables, seems strange that both would not push past 1080. If it doesn't work with new cables I would crack it open and look at the internals. If you could post up pics it would be helpful to others for sure - especially if they run into similar issues.
> 
> One quick question - you aren't connecting both DVI and HDMI at the same time correct? I assume not.


Correct. I tried it with the DVI cable alone and no joy. I am suspect now that it is a input board problem as it picks up DVI-D on my computer but regular DVI on the actual monitor end.
When I do HDMI to HDMI as a test it does pick up that it's HDMI both ends but doesn't go past 1080p.

I assume I will have to return it at my cost and put a claim in to get the customs back.

How hard is it to take apart? is there a guide to stripping it ?

just for the sake of testing I also used a single dvi cable and it didn't show a picture at all.


----------



## roberts6910

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solado*
> 
> Correct. I tried it with the DVI cable alone and no joy. I am suspect now that it is a input board problem as it picks up DVI-D on my computer but regular DVI on the actual monitor end.
> When I do HDMI to HDMI as a test it does pick up that it's HDMI both ends but doesn't go past 1080p.
> 
> I assume I will have to return it at my cost and put a claim in to get the customs back.
> 
> How hard is it to take apart? is there a guide to stripping it ?
> 
> just for the sake of testing I also used a single dvi cable and it didn't show a picture at all.


No warranty from the seller? They should take it back and replace it for you.

Tear down of these things is super easy. Never did a tear down on your monitor, but it looks like a Catleap housing. So 4 screws on the bottom and some separating pressure near the OSD buttons (the easiest place to separate the bezel from the housing) and the bezel pops off. If you have a spudger or even a plastic putty knife that can separate the bezel (do not use metal it will mar the plastic pretty easily). Internally, it could depend on how the panel is mounted. Some are screwed to the housing some panels are simply pressure mounted and pop out.

DO NOT lift the panel out straight away. You will need to tilt it from the bottom and look underneath to disconnect the input PCB from the panel TCON. There will be one, possibly two, cables that connect them (most likely only one). Once that is done you can lift the panel off.

From there it's pretty straightforward. The TCON on the panel with have a metal cover (4 screws) and the input PCB may not have a cover and is held in with 4 screws.

If you have an LM270WQ1(XX)(XX) panel - the (XX)(XX) is the submodel number - you could purchase an overclock PCB kit to replace what is there. Look for the LG panel sticker on the back of the panel.

Good luck!


----------



## Solado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> No warranty from the seller? They should take it back and replace it for you.
> 
> Tear down of these things is super easy. Never did a tear down on your monitor, but it looks like a Catleap housing. So 4 screws on the bottom and some separating pressure near the OSD buttons (the easiest place to separate the bezel from the housing) and the bezel pops off. If you have a spudger or even a plastic putty knife that can separate the bezel (do not use metal it will mar the plastic pretty easily). Internally, it could depend on how the panel is mounted. Some are screwed to the housing some panels are simply pressure mounted and pop out.
> 
> DO NOT lift the panel out straight away. You will need to tilt it from the bottom and look underneath to disconnect the input PCB from the panel TCON. There will be one, possibly two, cables that connect them (most likely only one). Once that is done you can lift the panel off.
> 
> From there it's pretty straightforward. The TCON on the panel with have a metal cover (4 screws) and the input PCB may not have a cover and is held in with 4 screws.
> 
> If you have an LM270WQ1(XX)(XX) panel - the (XX)(XX) is the submodel number - you could purchase an overclock PCB kit to replace what is there. Look for the LG panel sticker on the back of the panel.
> 
> Good luck!


Yeah 1 year warranty so I can send it back to the seller. It looks like I will be £25 out of pocket and I have little faith in the monitors now so i guess it's a case of waiting for the cable and deciding a refund or replacement.


----------



## Solado

Just to update on the situation:

The HDMI 2.0 and DVI-D cable came today and exact same problem with the monitor unable to go over 1080p. This happened on both my brothers machine (Nvidia 970) and my machine (R9 270X). The settings only pick up a DVI port on the monitor and not a DVI-D port and the HDMI refuses to go over 1080p.

The input PCB is clearly faulty so I have requested a refund and to return the monitor, I would advise against buying the multiple input version as clearly some poor quality components are being used to cut price and corners. I will be out of pocket by £25 in return shipping and go through the tax office to get my £45 duty back. If you live in the UK I advise you DO NOT buy one of these monitors as it's a huge problem when they go wrong.


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> I mean the actual PCB inside the monitor housing could be failing. In my case, when the monitor did the clicking I thought first it was the power brick. I tested it and it was ok. So when it started up again I watched the brick and saw that the power light dimmed to the clicks (I could hear the panel clicking and the brick). I cannot say for sure your internals are failing on the monitor, only it sounds similar to my issue.
> 
> You would need to open the monitor and replace the internal PCB - the one you connect your GPU to the monitor. Of course, you won't need to do anything until it completely craps out on you and it may make it for a while still - who knows?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now whether you can get the proper part depends entirely on what monitor you have and the LG panel actually used in it. The Koreans tend to mix and match panels and PCBs so saying you have X model from Y company won't tell us anything. You will need to crack it open and actually look at the white LG label on the back of the panel. I know of only one place to get LG PCBs and those are only good for a specific range of LG LM270WQ1 panels. There may be other resellers of replacement parts, but I only have the WQ1 panels so I have never had to look.


Yep so as of this morning the monitor is constantly clicking. I got a new brick and it's doing the same thing but with less frequent clicking and a pink screen flashing instead of white.

How much is that PCB part that you bought? The monitor is on sale for $189 right now so I'm thinking to just purchase another one for the time being.


----------



## krabs

Gonna buy a qnix later tonight, will select the USD $140 "off-grade" matte which may have slight flaw on the panel (scratch, dp , bp ,coin sized bleeding)
Excited about 1440p

will lower backlight to under 20 , tune some colors if possible
not intending to overclock , I'm fine with 60fps casual gaming.


----------



## roberts6910

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> Yep so as of this morning the monitor is constantly clicking. I got a new brick and it's doing the same thing but with less frequent clicking and a pink screen flashing instead of white.
> 
> How much is that PCB part that you bought? The monitor is on sale for $189 right now so I'm thinking to just purchase another one for the time being.


$75 shipped US - these overclock well. Not sure if that bargain basement monitor is a real value. I would worry about tons of pixel issues and crazy bleed.


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> $75 shipped US - these overclock well. Not sure if that bargain basement monitor is a real value. I would worry about tons of pixel issues and crazy bleed.


can you link me? http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ isn't working anymore


----------



## roberts6910

Not without another monitor or another power brick that I know of.


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> Not without another monitor or another power brick that I know of.


I got some Insignia brick from Bestbuy but it didn't work. I did however order a replacement brick that we get with the monitor. It's coming in this week.

What would another monitor do for me to verify it's a PCB issue?


----------



## roberts6910

Use your current power brick and see if it powers it up. If no clicking, then it's the PCB. Also be careful with bricks since the polarity on the pins needs to be correct. Many bricks won't work with the Korean models - assuming your plug is a 4 pin deal like the ones I have. If you have plugged in a replacement brick with a different pinout for + and - then you may have damaged the PCB.


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> Use your current power brick and see if it powers it up. If no clicking, then it's the PCB. Also be careful with bricks since the polarity on the pins needs to be correct. Many bricks won't work with the Korean models - assuming your plug is a 4 pin deal like the ones I have. If you have plugged in a replacement brick with a different pinout for + and - then you may have damaged the PCB.


Well ****. Let's hope it didn't get damaged. I'll just wait until the replacement comes in then. Thanks for all your help!


----------



## roberts6910

You should have the pinout of the power on the back of your original power brick. Check it against the one you bought.

Mine looks like this (all of my monitors used the same plug type).


----------



## tangosmango

that is the original brick.

and this is what I bought (which I already returned): www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-ac-adapter-black/5019131.p?id=1219219751719&skuId=5019131


----------



## roberts6910

No idea - you must have a completely different PCB setup than I do.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> No warranty from the seller? They should take it back and replace it for you.
> 
> Tear down of these things is super easy. Never did a tear down on your monitor, but it looks like a Catleap housing. So 4 screws on the bottom and some separating pressure near the OSD buttons (the easiest place to separate the bezel from the housing) and the bezel pops off. If you have a spudger or even a plastic putty knife that can separate the bezel (do not use metal it will mar the plastic pretty easily). Internally, it could depend on how the panel is mounted. Some are screwed to the housing some panels are simply pressure mounted and pop out.
> 
> DO NOT lift the panel out straight away. You will need to tilt it from the bottom and look underneath to disconnect the input PCB from the panel TCON. There will be one, possibly two, cables that connect them (most likely only one). Once that is done you can lift the panel off.
> 
> From there it's pretty straightforward. The TCON on the panel with have a metal cover (4 screws) and the input PCB may not have a cover and is held in with 4 screws.
> 
> If you have an LM270WQ1(XX)(XX) panel - the (XX)(XX) is the submodel number *- you could purchase an overclock PCB kit to replace what is there.* Look for the LG panel sticker on the back of the panel.
> 
> Good luck!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> $75 shipped US - these overclock well. Not sure if that bargain basement monitor is a real value. I would worry about tons of pixel issues and crazy bleed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you link me? http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/ isn't working anymore
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roberts6910*
> 
> No idea - *you must have a completely different PCB setup than I do*.


*THIS^^^^* ... I can't believe this conversation went on as long as it did without someone jumping in









All single input overclockable QX2710"s are SAMSUNG panels and you CANNOT mix or interchange the LG panel PCB's with the QNIX ... so far no one has been able to source the original overclock PCB's for the Samsung panels, but some have gotten their original supplier/vendor (ie. green-sum / dreamseller etc) to send them a replacement PCB, sometimes even free of charge!









@roberts6910 ... I know you are just trying to help, and you found a great source to replace the now not available OC kits on ebay for LG (Catleap/Overlord) panels but really you are in the wrong thread here promoting these OC PCB kits because the QNIX is an entirely different animal


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *THIS^^^^* ... I can't believe this conversation went on as long as it did without someone jumping in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All single input overclockable QX2710"s are SAMSUNG panels and you CANNOT mix or interchange the LG panel PCB's with the QNIX ... so far no one has been able to source the original overclock PCB's for the Samsung panels, but some have gotten their original supplier/vendor (ie. green-sum / dreamseller etc) to send them a replacement PCB, sometimes even free of charge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @roberts6910 ... I know you are just trying to help, and you found a great source to replace the now not available OC kits on ebay for LG (Catleap/Overlord) panels but really you are in the wrong thread here promoting these OC PCB kits because the QNIX is an entirely different animal


How do I find out which mine is? Mine is not a Qnix but rather an Xstar. Would I have to open it up and find out? I messaged dream-seller about a replacement PCB and he asked for the model number of the monitor which I gave him from the back of the monitor. Something tells me I'm gonna end up having to open it up to give him the right information.


----------



## dante`afk

can I use dvi to mini displayport since the FTW has only 1xdvi and both of my screens are only dvi ?

so would it work to connect 1x dvi and 1x displayport on the same card?

I'd think female DVI to male displayport?


----------



## dante`afk

just found out, 1070/1080 does not work with overclocked Qnix right? at least not booting into windows with them. you can set the OC in windows but booting anything above 81hz results in graphic errors.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> just found out, 1070/1080 does not work with overclocked Qnix right? at least not booting into windows with them. you can set the OC in windows but booting anything above 81hz results in graphic errors.


Until there is a solid driver fix, this is what you will have to rely on......


----------



## LurkingPresence

Has anyone had any luck with sourcing replacement PCBs for the QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2? Specifically the DPL-2560LS.REV.00? I bought two Qnix's back in 2013. Woke up to the smell of burning electronics on Saturday to find one of them had bitten the dust. After dismantling it I found that a mosfet on the board had burnt out (the display panel looks fine).

The display panel itself is a Samsung LTM270DL02.


----------



## OptimusToaster

Nvidia have released another statement saying:

"We will be releasing a driver update later this week that will allow it to run at higher clocks on older DVI cables and enable all monitor modes. Thank you all for your patience"

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946217/geforce-1000-series/gtx-10-series-can-t-boot-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/post/4926343/#4926343

Hopefully this will be the end of the issues which is great cause I've had a 1080 on preorder for over a month.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LurkingPresence*
> 
> Has anyone had any luck with sourcing replacement PCBs for the QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2? Specifically the DPL-2560LS.REV.00? I bought two Qnix's back in 2013. Woke up to the smell of burning electronics on Saturday to find one of them had bitten the dust. After dismantling it I found that a mosfet on the board had burnt out (the display panel looks fine).
> 
> The display panel itself is a Samsung LTM270DL02.


Just wondering, was your display overclocked all the time since owning it and by how much?


----------



## LurkingPresence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Just wondering, was your display overclocked all the time since owning it and by how much?


It actually wasn't overclocked. I overclocked it for a while when I first got it (as in a few weeks) but for the vast majority of
the time I was running it at 60hz. I think what killed it was the power supply (since it also stopped working).


----------



## krabs

I cannibalized a aluminium heatsink from my old 75watt graphic card , will place it on the power brick to help it cooldown. Expecting the fedex delivery within 2 days.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *THIS^^^^* ... I can't believe this conversation went on as long as it did without someone jumping in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All single input overclockable QX2710"s are SAMSUNG panels and you CANNOT mix or interchange the LG panel PCB's with the QNIX ... so far no one has been able to source the original overclock PCB's for the Samsung panels, but some have gotten their original supplier/vendor (ie. green-sum / dreamseller etc) to send them a replacement PCB, sometimes even free of charge!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @roberts6910 ... I know you are just trying to help, and you found a great source to replace the now not available OC kits on ebay for LG (Catleap/Overlord) panels but really you are in the wrong thread here promoting these OC PCB kits because the QNIX is an entirely different animal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do I find out which mine is? Mine is not a Qnix but rather an Xstar. Would I have to open it up and find out? I messaged dream-seller about a replacement PCB and he asked for the model number of the monitor which I gave him from the back of the monitor. Something tells me I'm gonna end up having to open it up to give him the right information.
Click to expand...

The X-Star is identical to the equivalent QNIX model (see OP) and if it is a single input, not a True10 or Multi-input version it is a Samsung panel. The exact model number of the panel itself can only be confirmed by opening it up. Something you will have to do anyway to replace the PCB







But Dream-seller will likely send you the correct PCB without you having to open it up


----------



## kopap

Hi just got today a QNIX QX2710 Multi input Matte
and as you see on the photos i have these strange green line banding
its the same from 60-84hz and i tried on a gtx780 and HD7970 so its not a gpu fault

should i returned it or is there away to fix it

thanks


----------



## krabs

Great , just setup my monitor and used my own cable instead of the crude adaptor solution without 3rd pin grounding.
Did not spot any defective pixel with my casual eyeball scanning on multi color fullscreens. Will run some games to test it later.
Guess I got lucky without spending the extra 25-45% premium for pixel guarantee.
Backlight bleeding is zero..

The only fault I see is the white is displayed uniformly across the screen with a yellow tint. Will try to find solution.

No OSD , only backlight and volume + -
Lowest level of backlight have visible flicker and too dark for any normal usage.
I'm using it at lowest + 4 or 5 steps up to match my previous monitor 's comfortable level and low power consumption.
There are total of 30 steps in backlight.

*edit*
I suppressed the yellow tint using windows control-panel --- color management
reduced red by 16% , green by 12%
ok results...







no external software needed


----------



## dante`afk

did anyone switch to a gsync screen from a qnix? i got the asus pg279q and can't decide if I see a difference or not -_-

also, I got myself this dvi to displayport adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gofanco%C2%AE-DisplayPort-Converter-UltraHD-Monitors/dp/B00OQQ2HDC

does anyone have that? it is showing a screen but there are over the whole screen flickering lines that suggest frequency issue even though it is only at 60hz?


----------



## Langeon

Hey guys. The new update of the drivers make me able to go to 120hz with my monitor. However i cant get the frame skipping test to work. Anyone else having this issue?

http://s130.photobucket.com/user/rallyludde/media/Namnloumls.png.html


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Langeon*
> 
> Hey guys. The new update of the drivers make me able to go to 120hz with my monitor. However i cant get the frame skipping test to work. Anyone else having this issue?


Win10?

Right click empty place on Desktop > Display Settings > Select the QNIX in the diagram, if multi-monitor > Scroll down click Advanced Display Settings > Make sure display is selected > scroll down > Display Adapter Properties > In the monitor tab, make sure your 120hz is selected in the drop down menu > Hit Apply/OK, retest.

Do you have any 60fps limiting software installed? MSI Afterburner's RivaTuner, Dxtroy, EVGA Precision...anything that monitors FPS. most apps have limiters.

Try reboot, maybe the 120hz isnt actually set.

I dont understand how a driver update (I assume Nvidia drivers?) can get you higher OC. were you one of the people stuck at 330mhz pixel rate because of that 10 series DVI issue?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kopap*
> 
> Hi just got today a QNIX QX2710 Multi input Matte
> and as you see on the photos i have these strange green line banding
> its the same from 60-84hz and i tried on a gtx780 and HD7970 so its not a gpu fault
> 
> should i returned it or is there away to fix it
> 
> thanks


Tested different cables?
I vote return.


----------



## Langeon

Yes its Win10. Tested all of the above but it didnt work.

Yes thats correct. I was locked under the 330mhz pixel clock before. It seems like i can get higher hz in games. Overwatch lets me get up to 96fps and if i set the screen to higher than 120hz i get artefacts ingame which tells me its working. But i would like to be able to check for frame skipping. Any other tips?


----------



## HyeVltg3

shurcooL-Refresh Rate Multitool

Google it. its pretty much the Offline version of the frameskipping website test.

Get a FPS counter app like MSI afterburner, Open RivaTuner (in taskbar) set frame limit to 120
run it (.exe), it opens cmd > type "I agree" > Enter > Fullscreen it > watch the fps counter > see if its stable at 120fps
(toggle on the OSD if it doesnt show...I'm going to assume youve used MSI Afterburner before)

if it fluctuates a lot from 120 and down, then your OC is not stable. it make look it. but could be some other underlying issue, stable = solid 119-120 for a while.

ALSO. so far youre the only one with this issue since the new drivers, if no more people come out of the woodworks, all I can assume is that its bad driver install or something YOU've done to lock it at the non-120 fps.

Aside from coming over and having a look myself, I cant really offer many solutions.

Also do note the app can mess up unstable display. when I did testing on an unstable oc. it would leave "burn-in" like ghost images on the QNIX, all I needed to do was unplug it (AC adapter) let it power drain (wait 10-20secs) then plugged it back in. simple.


----------



## Langeon

Thank you! That program works and it works perfectly in 120hz. Thank you very much!


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Langeon*
> 
> Thank you! That program works and it works perfectly in 120hz. Thank you very much!


ya no worries. Just find it better than the frame skipping test. I still advise you test the frame skipping site, just to be 100% sure and for peace of mind, haha

but, Enjoy.


----------



## kopap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Win10?
> 
> Right click empty place on Desktop > Display Settings > Select the QNIX in the diagram, if multi-monitor > Scroll down click Advanced Display Settings > Make sure display is selected > scroll down > Display Adapter Properties > In the monitor tab, make sure your 120hz is selected in the drop down menu > Hit Apply/OK, retest.
> 
> Do you have any 60fps limiting software installed? MSI Afterburner's RivaTuner, Dxtroy, EVGA Precision...anything that monitors FPS. most apps have limiters.
> 
> Try reboot, maybe the 120hz isnt actually set.
> 
> I dont understand how a driver update (I assume Nvidia drivers?) can get you higher OC. were you one of the people stuck at 330mhz pixel rate because of that 10 series DVI issue?
> Tested different cables?
> I vote return.


all is fine.had to disassemble the monitor reseat the connectors. finally the problem was the speakers . Dont know why but since i disconnect them there is no green line banding


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kopap*
> 
> all is fine.had to disassemble the monitor reseat the connectors. finally the problem was the speakers . Dont know why but since i disconnect them there is no green line banding


Interesting, I wonder if people who get artifacts at 110-120 would see them go away if they disconnected theirs?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kopap*
> 
> all is fine.had to disassemble the monitor reseat the connectors. finally the problem was the speakers . Dont know why but since i disconnect them there is no green line banding


posting after the above's "interesting" inquiry.

Kopap, what model do you have?
willing to try this out. but last time I took it apart to "try" and fix my BLB I chickened out and put the panel back, wasnt clicking back into place so feared I'd goofed something.


----------



## kopap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> posting after the above's "interesting" inquiry.
> 
> Kopap, what model do you have?
> willing to try this out. but last time I took it apart to "try" and fix my BLB I chickened out and put the panel back, wasnt clicking back into place so feared I'd goofed something.


its the this one
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm
i get max 88hz overclock

backlight bleeding i will open the monitor again tomorrow ,it isnt that bad but it can get better


----------



## tangosmango

I read through some posts and found out that you cannot run an adapter (DVI --> HDMI/DP) and get a high refresh rate. I'm on a 980ti with only one DVI connection. I now have two X-star DP2710's and trying to find out if a dual display is possible via an adapter or DVI to HDMI connection.

Anyone have any experience with this?

edit: was looking to see if this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Syba-SY-DVIHDMI-MM30-DVI-D-Plated-Connector/dp/B004DLKJSU or this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B004C9M7UG

edit2: on more googling, I found this: http://blog.brianmoses.net/2015/02/hooking-up-my-qnix-2710-to-displayport.html


----------



## Dreemlan

Is it normal to have slight retention at 60Hz? I've had Chrome open for around an hour and the top, white, bar of Chrome is slightly burned in.

I am using a GTX 1080, don't remember this happening with my AMD card.

Edit: I can't install the QNIX driver, it says that Windows encountered an error and that the "third-party INF does not contain digital signature information".

(I have the X-Star 2710)


----------



## Ghostrider5666

I received my QNIX QX2710 Evoltion II Glossy and it is perfect. I have no Back Light Bleed or dead pixels. I have it overclocked to 96Hz in Nvidia Control Panel.


----------



## Jade Rabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> I read through some posts and found out that you cannot run an adapter (DVI --> HDMI/DP) and get a high refresh rate. I'm on a 980ti with only one DVI connection. I now have two X-star DP2710's and trying to find out if a dual display is possible via an adapter or DVI to HDMI connection.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with this?
> 
> edit: was looking to see if this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Syba-SY-DVIHDMI-MM30-DVI-D-Plated-Connector/dp/B004DLKJSU or this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B004C9M7UG
> 
> edit2: on more googling, I found this: http://blog.brianmoses.net/2015/02/hooking-up-my-qnix-2710-to-displayport.html


I bought this one.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jade Rabbit*
> 
> I bought this one.
> https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY


that...is quite expensive! are you able to clock it higher at all?


----------



## Jade Rabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> that...is quite expensive! are you able to clock it higher at all?


I don't know yet. I don't receive until later this week. We'll see.....


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jade Rabbit*
> 
> I don't know yet. I don't receive until later this week. We'll see.....


cool. do reply when you get a chance to test it out!


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> Edit: I can't install the QNIX driver, it says that Windows encountered an error and that the "third-party INF does not contain digital signature information".


You'll have to disable signature checking. The nuts and bolts of that will depend on your version of Windows. For Windows 10, this video is helpful: 



.


----------



## dante`afk

does anyone else have the issue that OC is not working over displayport? the gtx1080 has only one DVI port, so I hook up my second Qnix to a displayport, however the OC is not working there over displayport?

I am using this adapter here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQQ2HDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> does anyone else have the issue that OC is not working over displayport? the gtx1080 has only one DVI port, so I hook up my second Qnix to a displayport, however the OC is not working there over displayport?
> 
> I am using this adapter here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQQ2HDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and it works for you? that's the same one I ordered. are you able to clock the refresh rate any higher?


----------



## dante`afk

the screen comes up yes, but OC not possible, it goes black even if you clock it 10hz higher.


----------



## Jade Rabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangosmango*
> 
> cool. do reply when you get a chance to test it out!


Well, the Startech active adapter let me go to 96hz. I went straight to 120 and black screen. Did not try anything else, maybe can go a little higher. Well, that was kind of a waste of money. I actually don't even need it, as it's for my 2nd DP2710 display.


----------



## minlillaponny

Is it possible for a monitor to go "bad"?
I've been running thew same settings for month now without any problems, but the last week i've had blue/red/green dots and flashes in some games, especially World of Warships.
It might just be a graphic bug but i've done some search and can't find anyone else with same issue


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minlillaponny*
> 
> Is it possible for a monitor to go "bad"?
> I've been running thew same settings for month now without any problems, but the last week i've had blue/red/green dots and flashes in some games, especially World of Warships.
> It might just be a graphic bug but i've done some search and can't find anyone else with same issue


Can you test with another monitor?

from what I understand, if it was the monitor, the ENTIRE screen would show a problem. not just in games.

Test with another monitor to rule out GPU issues.

but yes monitor can go bad (luck based) but happens faster if you run an OC 24/7, when not gaming, I reset my monitor back to 60hz. when I game I bump it up to its 96hz profile. very easy to do, just set, screen flickers, play games. change back when I'm done. easy.

With another monitor if youre getting the same issues, sorry to say your GPU is dying or is getting unstable.


----------



## minlillaponny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> Can you test with another monitor?
> 
> from what I understand, if it was the monitor, the ENTIRE screen would show a problem. not just in games.
> 
> Test with another monitor to rule out GPU issues.
> 
> but yes monitor can go bad (luck based) but happens faster if you run an OC 24/7, when not gaming, I reset my monitor back to 60hz. when I game I bump it up to its 96hz profile. very easy to do, just set, screen flickers, play games. change back when I'm done. easy.
> 
> With another monitor if youre getting the same issues, sorry to say your GPU is dying or is getting unstable.


Oh thanks. Are you changing profiles from NVCP/ATI CCC or do you have other programs for that?
Guess i'm playing about 10 games and it's only 2 games that are showing these blue/red/green dots and flashes, and that is World of Warships and World of Tanks. Same developer so it might just be a graphic bug, but it the same time it should be more people with same problems and not just me.

I have a old Benq 120hz monitor i can try on


----------



## HyeVltg3

I have the 96hz Custom Resolutions set up via NVCP. but its just a simple goto Display Adapter Properties. and change the Hz in the monitor tab, hit apply done. I even pinned it to start menu to reduce the amount of clicks.

Test with the other monitor. is same issue. its probably the game, since you said its only these 2 games, same dev, most likely same graphics engine.


----------



## tangosmango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jade Rabbit*
> 
> Well, the Startech active adapter let me go to 96hz. I went straight to 120 and black screen. Did not try anything else, maybe can go a little higher. Well, that was kind of a waste of money. I actually don't even need it, as it's for my 2nd DP2710 display.


so i just tested the one i got from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQQ2HDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and i was able to get it working but it won't go above 60hz


----------



## Dreemlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> You'll have to disable signature checking. The nuts and bolts of that will depend on your version of Windows. For Windows 10, this video is helpful:
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thank you, I'll check it out.


----------



## yesiamhuman

nvm.


----------



## sammysamsam

Hey guys, I switched over from AMD to Nvidia 1070 and I cant seem to install the qnix monitor driver in device manager. I ran DDU and uninstalled AMD drivers and updated windows but I always get the error, "third party INF does not contain digital signature info." I tried installing in safe mode with driver signing disabled as well and still gives me the same error. What am i doing wrong?

EDIT: reinstalled nvidia drivers and I was able to install qnix drivers if anyone has trouble.


----------



## egyptionsr2buff

I need some help guys.
I was trying to remove the stand and long story short the wires connecting the LCD to the board split from each other. I am attempting to place them back in but when I successfully do that, the monitor turns on and the back light appears lit but no picture is transmitted to the screen. My computer detects the monitor and everything but the picture isn't showing.

http://postimg.org/gallery/gplx54oy/


----------



## Bulldozer72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Omg....just mounted my Qnix to a Ergotech Freedom Arm....wow I love the combo!


This arm is fantastic. So good I wish I researched this thread long before actually needing it. I should have bouht one of these a couple of years ago. Thank you, bluedevil, for this post.

Rep+

Edit: spelling


----------



## kenshinsars

you need to disable windows built-in driver signing.. http://acer.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/38289/~/windows-10%3A-disable-signed-driver-enforcement


----------



## swim1929

Hi guys. I bought a QX2710 and noticed that the stand sucks of course. What's a cheap VESA stand (not a desk mount) I can get online? The cheapest I'm seeing are >$40 on eBay. Thanks.


----------



## vasyltheonly

There is a crazy good deal on a qnix monitor on Craigslist. My friend is getting a Rx 480 in the mail. How does display port to dvi work for overclocking these monitors? I have a xstar myself but I don't want to wait and miss the deal while waiting for the card to arrive.


----------



## DiceAir

Does anyone know of a way to get this monitor to work via intel hd 530 onboard without using Displayport? My onboard can do 4k at 24hz via HDMI. i tried using a HDMI to dvi adapter and then using my dual link cable to the monitor but can't get it to work


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vasyltheonly*
> 
> There is a crazy good deal on a qnix monitor on Craigslist. My friend is getting a Rx 480 in the mail. How does display port to dvi work for overclocking these monitors? I have a xstar myself but I don't want to wait and miss the deal while waiting for the card to arrive.


I made a post a few pages back about testing the QNIX with a Fury X (only display port and HDMI) from what I found out. HDMI to DVI is hard to find and doesnt seem to be able to go above 1920x1080. whereas DP to DVI can.
BUT, what I learnt was you sacrifice the overclockability of the QNIX for being able to use a DP to DVI Adapter. so you can try to OC, but I tried two adapters and 1 failed to output video at stock, the other worked but would not allow OC above 60hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Does anyone know of a way to get this monitor to work via intel hd 530 onboard without using Displayport? My onboard can do 4k at 24hz via HDMI. i tried using a HDMI to dvi adapter and then using my dual link cable to the monitor but can't get it to work


refer to the above.

but if no one can chime in, I take its because when we bought the monitor we all read the listing description where it states the monitor does not work with onboard iGPUs. I dont think it has anything to do with if the iGPU can do 4k or 10k. because the Monitor doesnt have any internal OSD everything is handled by the DVI port GPU. I dont believe iGPUs are capable of it, I'm not that tech savvy to understand why. but all I know is. my i7-4790K cant work with this monitor even with a straight DVI to DVI connection (mobo has DVI out)

*Now onto why I'm here*
GTX 980ti, no idea if its a new update or bad cable, but my solid 96hz suddenly started failing, oddly, I'm down to 92hz and it works fine.
Has anyone's OC suddenly stopped working since recent NV driver updates? I'm on 368.81
would like to ask before I buy a new DVI cable, I'm using a "aftermarket" High Grade DVI-D cable.


----------



## vasyltheonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> I made a post a few pages back about testing the QNIX with a Fury X (only display port and HDMI) from what I found out. HDMI to DVI is hard to find and doesnt seem to be able to go above 1920x1080. whereas DP to DVI can.
> BUT, what I learnt was you sacrifice the overclockability of the QNIX for being able to use a DP to DVI Adapter. so you can try to OC, but I tried two adapters and 1 failed to output video at stock, the other worked but would not allow OC above 60hz.
> refer to the above.
> 
> but if no one can chime in, I take its because when we bought the monitor we all read the listing description where it states the monitor does not work with onboard iGPUs. I dont think it has anything to do with if the iGPU can do 4k or 10k. because the Monitor doesnt have any internal OSD everything is handled by the DVI port GPU. I dont believe iGPUs are capable of it, I'm not that tech savvy to understand why. but all I know is. my i7-4790K cant work with this monitor even with a straight DVI to DVI connection (mobo has DVI out)
> 
> *Now onto why I'm here*
> GTX 980ti, no idea if its a new update or bad cable, but my solid 96hz suddenly started failing, oddly, I'm down to 92hz and it works fine.
> Has anyone's OC suddenly stopped working since recent NV driver updates? I'm on 368.81
> would like to ask before I buy a new DVI cable, I'm using a "aftermarket" High Grade DVI-D cable.


Thanks for your input. Guess I'll pass on it. And the new driver sucks on my 980ti. I can't load games at 96hz with my other monitor being connected. Revert back to the one from early June. That's what I'm using currently without an issue.


----------



## egyptionsr2buff

Really wish someone could reply to my post. I have posted over 3 weeks waiting for any help whatsoever.

I was trying to remove the stand and long story short the wires connecting the LCD to the board split from each other. I am attempting to place them back in but when I successfully do that, the monitor turns on and the back light appears lit but no picture is transmitted to the screen. My computer detects the monitor and everything but the picture isn't showing.

http://postimg.org/gallery/gplx54oy/


----------



## Dualiperkele

Hello everyone. My Qnix multi arrive at mail today and I encountered a weird thing while overclocking. Windows won't show any custom refresh rates over 81hz, but it still shows custom refresh rates over 144hz for my other two 1080p 60hz monitors. Any suggestions how to fix this issue?


----------



## catbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyeVltg3*
> 
> I made a post a few pages back about testing the QNIX with a Fury X (only display port and HDMI) from what I found out. HDMI to DVI is hard to find and doesnt seem to be able to go above 1920x1080. whereas DP to DVI can.
> BUT, what I learnt was you sacrifice the overclockability of the QNIX for being able to use a DP to DVI Adapter. so you can try to OC, but I tried two adapters and 1 failed to output video at stock, the other worked but would not allow OC above 60hz.
> refer to the above.


as a couple other posts in this thread talked about, there is a StarTech active adaptor that allows overclocking via DisplayPort - i am not sure what limit the StarTech adaptor has regarding hz.

however i thought i would chip in my experience here, as i just bought (at 1/3 the cost of StarTechs £92 offering) a Dell KDP70 active adaptor to test.

the maximum overclock the KDP70 seems to allow is 80hz, or 79.999hz but potato, tomato.

rather than lose my qnix's nice OC and have to pay £90 to maybe get it back - i decided to pay £10 more for an aftermarket card with a DVI port









but leaving details of the Dell KDP70 and it's seeming 80hz limit here for reference, and hopefully people googling this will find it helpful in future!


----------



## Dualiperkele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dualiperkele*
> 
> Hello everyone. My Qnix multi arrive at mail today and I encountered a weird thing while overclocking. Windows won't show any custom refresh rates over 81hz, but it still shows custom refresh rates over 144hz for my other two 1080p 60hz monitors. Any suggestions how to fix this issue?


I tried overclocking with amd utility and it gave me a error saying " The custom resolution are not compatible with this display. reconfigure your settings and try again."

This seems really odd to me, does the panel have a lock so it wont go over 81hz? I'm using dual link dvi-d cable


----------



## DiceAir

So I'm trying to set my old qnix qx2710 up for my dad's pc (not a gamer). I tried powering it off a gt610 and a radeon 6570 i had lying around and for some reason full HD media playback is a bit choppy. I play via VLC media player and ahve all hardware acceleration enabled. I also have 2 more monitors 1 is 4:3 monitor and one is full hd in portrait mode powering of the Intel HD grepahics and when I play the same move and same scene via the other 2 monitors it's a lot smoother so maybe those cards are just not good enough to power the resolution properly. Now haven't testet it again on my 980ti so maybe I should do that to see if it's still choppy and if it is then it's just the monitor. i don't overclock the monitor so still at 60hz.

So does any one know why I'm seeing this issue. I have no problem buying a better GPU for the pc it's going to be used at but don't want to waste money either.

Pc in use is a

4690k @ 4.6ghz
16gb 1600mhz ram
SSD for os and hdd for data.

So as you can see not a slow pc.


----------



## schiggy

..


----------



## schiggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minlillaponny*
> 
> Is it possible for a monitor to go "bad"?
> I've been running thew same settings for month now without any problems, but the last week i've had blue/red/green dots and flashes in some games, especially World of Warships.
> It might just be a graphic bug but i've done some search and can't find anyone else with same issue


yes it is possible I had the same issue during a heatwave, my qnix run perfectly fine for about 5 monthes at 96 Hz but then it started with the blue green dots allover
however I managed to fix, here is how:


----------



## schiggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kopap*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi just got today a QNIX QX2710 Multi input Matte
> and as you see on the photos i have these strange green line banding
> its the same from 60-84hz and i tried on a gtx780 and HD7970 so its not a gpu fault
> 
> should i returned it or is there away to fix it
> 
> thanks


try another better DVI-D cable


----------



## schiggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LurkingPresence*
> 
> Has anyone had any luck with sourcing replacement PCBs for the QNIX QX2710 Evolution 2? Specifically the DPL-2560LS.REV.00? I bought two Qnix's back in 2013. Woke up to the smell of burning electronics on Saturday to find one of them had bitten the dust. After dismantling it I found that a mosfet on the board had burnt out (the display panel looks fine).
> 
> The display panel itself is a Samsung LTM270DL02.


can you post a hi-quality pic of your broken PCB
there are a few weak easy to change parts on it, maybe you can fix it for a few cents and 20 min of soldering..


----------



## egyptionsr2buff

Alright guys.

Monitor wasn't working because as I was removing the stand I screwed up one of the input cables. I have attached some pictures. I need a replacement PCB board or just the cable. Or if someone can tell me how to repair the cable I screwed up! Everything worked until I did this.








Need some help please.


----------



## schiggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *egyptionsr2buff*
> 
> Alright guys.
> 
> Monitor wasn't working because as I was removing the stand I screwed up one of the input cables. I have attached some pictures. I need a replacement PCB board or just the cable. Or if someone can tell me how to repair the cable I screwed up! Everything worked until I did this.
> 
> Need some help please.


I would try to repair the cables because I'm not sure if a new PCB comes with cables also it would be a little bit expensive to buy a new PCB just for the cables.
try to glue the broken plug with superglue but try not to cover the contacts with the glue, just the plug


----------



## egyptionsr2buff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schiggy*
> 
> I would try to repair the cables because I'm not sure if a new PCB comes with cables also it would be a little bit expensive to buy a new PCB just for the cables.
> try to glue the broken plug with superglue but try not to cover the contacts with the glue, just the plug


Man so I think I messed it up with my impatience. At first it looked like this. 


It was loose and wasn't entering well. And even when I thought I had it placed correctly the panel wasn't displaying an image. The working wire seems to power up the back light and this second wire seems to be needed for picture display. After many repeated trials the gold plate broke and the covering got ruined. So I took everything off thinking I could just insert the contacts in and tape them to hold it in place.



This is the normal wire that is working fine.



Thanks for the reply man!


----------



## jerrolds

I just ordered an EVGA FTW 1080 - does the DVI-D 81hz problem still exist or did they fix that?

EDIT: Nm they fixed it https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/946217/geforce-1000-series/gtx-10-series-can-t-boot-correctly-past-330-mhz-dl-dvi-pixel-clock/post/4926343/#4926343


----------



## minlillaponny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schiggy*
> 
> yes it is possible I had the same issue during a heatwave, my qnix run perfectly fine for about 5 monthes at 96 Hz but then it started with the blue green dots allover
> however I managed to fix, here is how:


Thanks, but that's not the problem i have








My green/red/blue dots are small, like a coin, a can appear anywhere on the screen.
I just did a quick run in 3DMark adn same phenomenon appeard, but more aggresive. Almost like i have a bad overclock on my GPU. But my secong monitor runs fine.
However, i dowloaded the latest drivers for my card and it seems like some games that had those dots earlier, now runs perfect.

Gonna do some more tests later.


----------



## Camberwell

I have in the last 2 days upgraded via a clean install to Win 10. On my Win 7 install I had a very comfortable 120Hz oc (for the last 2 years), but using the exact same nvidia driver, and the exact same settings in CRU, I cannot get it to work. Even loosening some of the timings doesn't work. Anyone else had this?
It's odd too as usually I would see all different colours flashing over the screen before I found my stable settings, but now the whole monitor goes black and then the whole picture comes back, almost like a slow blink. Weird.


----------



## anozira

I just wanted to say something about the QNIX 2710. I purchased it over three years ago and several months ago it started to flicker and the brightness went way up and then way down. It started to get worse and then finally the blue light started flashing and then a blank screen. So I disconnected it and hooked up my old one which was working fine. One day several months later I was going to throw it out but thought I would try it first. Well to my amazement the damn thing worked and has been working great until a few days ago. Now it's starting to flicker again. This is just my opinion but I think it has something to do with the Microsoft updates on windows ten. Anyways since this QNIX is flickering again I think I will get a Wasabi Mango UHD400 and from what I read it seems to be a good 4k monitor. I have to say though that this QNIX 2710 has been an awesome monitor and worth every penny.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anozira*
> 
> I just wanted to say something about the QNIX 2710. I purchased it over three years ago and several months ago it started to flicker and the brightness went way up and then way down. It started to get worse and then finally the blue light started flashing and then a blank screen. So I disconnected it and hooked up my old one which was working fine. One day several months later I was going to throw it out but thought I would try it first. Well to my amazement the damn thing worked and has been working great until a few days ago. Now it's starting to flicker again. This is just my opinion but I think it has something to do with the Microsoft updates on windows ten. Anyways since this QNIX is flickering again I think I will get a Wasabi Mango UHD400 and from what I read it seems to be a good 4k monitor. I have to say though that this QNIX 2710 has been an awesome monitor and worth every penny.


I must be the lucky one then. My Qnix still going strong after 3 years overclocked to 96hz. I must say it's one amazing monitor for the price. Right now have the ASUS rog Swift pg279q but my pg279q have very slight Back light bleed where my Qnix doesn't. Right now my qnix is being used on my fathers pc and he enjoys it a lot. He doesn't game but even productivity it's amazing. He's running it on 60hz though but just one tiny problem and that the 6750 might not be enough for this monitor as it's a bit slow on 1080p media playback


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> I have in the last 2 days upgraded via a clean install to Win 10. On my Win 7 install I had a very comfortable 120Hz oc (for the last 2 years), but using the exact same nvidia driver, and the exact same settings in CRU, I cannot get it to work. Even loosening some of the timings doesn't work. Anyone else had this?
> It's odd too as usually I would see all different colours flashing over the screen before I found my stable settings, but now the whole monitor goes black and then the whole picture comes back, almost like a slow blink. Weird.


Follow up - my Qnix is dead. I noticed at first that I could not load a different icc profile in Windows, which I thought was a Windows issue. Went to reboot, and after the screen went dark from rebooting, it didn't come back on again. No power led (red or blue), just dead. Well, 4 years at 120Hz must have just been too much. I'm going to order another one as I can't give up PLS and 120Hz, but assuming I get a good overclocker I will sit at 96Hz for desktop and only use 120Hz for certain games....


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Does anyone know if this monitor can now work with the new XBOX ONE Slim?


----------



## sinnedone

Just a heads up for those still interested in these monitors or looking for a replacement. There is a model made by Pixio that appears to be the same frame (different stand that attaches the same) with the newer 1440p 144hz 4ms panel with freesync!

They were 369 just a couple of weeks ago but jumped to 389. Just look for Pixio PX277, Here are the specs.

Specifications

• Model name: Pixio PX277
• Panel Type: IPS type Panel (M270DAN02.3)
• Screen size: 27inch (68.47cm), 16:9
• Resolution: 2560x1440(WQHD)
• Input/Output: DISPLAYPORT IN(1.2a), MINI DISPLAYPORT IN(1.2a), DUAL-LINK DVI-D, IN, HDMI IN(1.4) x2, AUDIO IN, USB IN(for Firmware Update), DC IN
• Contrast Ratio: 1,000:1
• Dynamic Contrast Ratio: ∞:1
• Brightness: 350cd/m2
• Response time: 4ms(G to G)
• Stand: Tilt
• Power: 12V 5A
• Viewing angle: 178(H), 178(V)
• Speakers: 5Wx5W
• VESA: 100mm x 100mm
• Other: Game Mode / LoS (on/off) / Bypass Mode (on/off) / Overdrive Response Time (on/off) / PIP / PBP

Might try and pick one of these up when funds allow. I believe they use the same panels as the acer and asus models, but could be mistaken.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Just a heads up for those still interested in these monitors or looking for a replacement. There is a model made by Pixio that appears to be the same frame (different stand that attaches the same) with the newer 1440p 144hz 4ms panel with freesync!
> 
> They were 369 just a couple of weeks ago but jumped to 389. Just look for Pixio PX277, Here are the specs.
> 
> Specifications
> 
> • Model name: Pixio PX277
> • Panel Type: IPS type Panel (M270DAN02.3)
> • Screen size: 27inch (68.47cm), 16:9
> • Resolution: 2560x1440(WQHD)
> • Input/Output: DISPLAYPORT IN(1.2a), MINI DISPLAYPORT IN(1.2a), DUAL-LINK DVI-D, IN, HDMI IN(1.4) x2, AUDIO IN, USB IN(for Firmware Update), DC IN
> • Contrast Ratio: 1,000:1
> • Dynamic Contrast Ratio: ∞:1
> • Brightness: 350cd/m2
> • Response time: 4ms(G to G)
> • Stand: Tilt
> • Power: 12V 5A
> • Viewing angle: 178(H), 178(V)
> • Speakers: 5Wx5W
> • VESA: 100mm x 100mm
> • Other: Game Mode / LoS (on/off) / Bypass Mode (on/off) / Overdrive Response Time (on/off) / PIP / PBP
> 
> Might try and pick one of these up when funds allow. I believe they use the same panels as the acer and asus models, but could be mistaken.


I really would like to get an Ultrawide 1440P 30 inch+ monitor that supports greater than 90hz. Any options lower than 600$?


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> Follow up - my Qnix is dead. I noticed at first that I could not load a different icc profile in Windows, which I thought was a Windows issue. Went to reboot, and after the screen went dark from rebooting, it didn't come back on again. No power led (red or blue), just dead. Well, 4 years at 120Hz must have just been too much. I'm going to order another one as I can't give up PLS and 120Hz, but assuming I get a good overclocker I will sit at 96Hz for desktop and only use 120Hz for certain games....


I think I found my problem:



I can't seem to find any replacement pcb's on ebay (or anywhere else) - does anyone know where I might get one? It's a DPL-2560LS.REV.01 if that helps.....


----------



## sheepdemon

Since Ocing my Crossover QHD I get a black screen when loading windows. Monitor still works and as soon as I change resolution to 1080 then back again it works fine, proving a bit annoying just now. Any ideas on a fix? I oced it using the Nvidia unlocker and NVCP. Brand new 1070 card too. Overclocked to 96hz (wouldn't go all the way to 120







)


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sheepdemon*
> 
> Since Ocing my Crossover QHD I get a black screen when loading windows. Monitor still works and as soon as I change resolution to 1080 then back again it works fine, proving a bit annoying just now. Any ideas on a fix? I oced it using the Nvidia unlocker and NVCP. Brand new 1070 card too. Overclocked to 96hz (wouldn't go all the way to 120
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Which Nvidia driver are you on?


----------



## Synth3D

I sold a Qnix Q2710 and it only supports a connection via DVI-D, however the buyer is using a graphics card that only supports HDMI and VGA.

The buyer stated that a HDMI to DVI cable didn't work, what type of adapter would solve the problem? Thanks.


----------



## I_am_McLovin

Sorry if this was answered before but

I'm running an X Star monitor with a shimian monitor and I notice the x star is almost an inch lower .. is there any way to adjust the height? Not really a big deal just kinda bothers me


----------



## Forceman

Not without buying a different stand for it. I put mine on a book.


----------



## bluedevil

Anyone know of a good dual link DVI to DP converter? I wanna hook up my Qnix 1440P PLS @ 96hz or more...the Fury Xs no DVI..


----------



## yoonie

Hi guys, I'm helping my friend build a PC and just wanted to double check that I was telling him to buy the correct, overclockable model. I'm 99% sure but since it's not my money, I just want some confirmation.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111482846269?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Thanks!


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoonie*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm helping my friend build a PC and just wanted to double check that I was telling him to buy the correct, overclockable model. I'm 99% sure but since it's not my money, I just want some confirmation.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111482846269?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, that's the right one.


----------



## ivoryg37

Is there anyway to run the dvi qnix on onboard Intel? I tried on a 6600k and a 4790K via motherboard dual dvi but the screen only shows the color cycle screen from when you first plug in the powercable


----------



## Roland2

For using the IntelGPU try this link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/3080#post_25133662.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Anyone know of a good dual link DVI to DP converter? I wanna hook up my Qnix 1440P PLS @ 96hz or more...the Fury Xs no DVI..


I don't think you're going to find one that goes to 96hz. The testing I did with the accell one is on this forum http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/23260#post_23828468. If I remember correctly I got it to around 85 to 90hz before it started frame skipping. This post" http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/25260#post_25384394 says they could only get to 80hz on the Dell model.


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roland2*
> 
> I don't think you're going to find one that goes to 96hz. The testing I did with the accell one is on this forum http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/23260#post_23828468. If I remember correctly I got it to around 85 to 90hz before it started frame skipping. This post" http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/25260#post_25384394 says they could only get to 80hz on the Dell model.


Yeah the ones I found could do 144hz @ 1080p but no dice for 1440p, more like 82hz.


----------



## Roland2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluedevil*
> 
> Yeah the ones I found could do 144hz @ 1080p but no dice for 1440p, more like 82hz.


Here is some of the testing I did: http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21290#post_23024913.


----------



## panosxidis

new driver for nvidia no support nvidia patcher


----------



## arnavvr

Looking to purchase one of these monitors, and was wondering what is the chance of receiving one that does 120Hz?


----------



## giltyler

My perfect pixel will get to 118
I did not waste to much time on the attempt though


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR

I'm looking at buying a 1440p monitor at the moment.

What I want:
25-27inch
DP connection
Overclockability - Never used anything more than 60Hz, I'm assuming I would need ~100Hz to see a difference?

What I don't want:
No super expensive adapter cables that limit the overclocking

Are there any Qnix monitors that fit the bill or should I be looking at ASUS or the like?


----------



## mat311

There is also the CrossOver 2795QHD wich overclock well it seems (96+).


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Anyone tried the new xbox one s with the qnix 2710???


----------



## arnavvr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zacharybinx34*
> 
> Anyone tried the new xbox one s with the qnix 2710???


Doesn't work. The QX2710 requires a DVI-D connection.


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Can't you use a dvi to hdmi converter?


----------



## bluedevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.N00bLaR*
> 
> I'm looking at buying a 1440p monitor at the moment.
> 
> What I want:
> 25-27inch
> DP connection
> Overclockability - Never used anything more than 60Hz, I'm assuming I would need ~100Hz to see a difference?
> 
> What I don't want:
> No super expensive adapter cables that limit the overclocking
> 
> Are there any Qnix monitors that fit the bill or should I be looking at ASUS or the like?


The Pixio PX277 Freesync 1440p is your ticket. 144hz , Freesync, and multi input.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HPDAF68/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471825823&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=px277&dpPl=1&dpID=51yfT5-P7iL&ref=plSrch


----------



## bobbybottleserv

Hi all,

My QNIX monitor won't turn on!
Was working perfectly fine until today -- died mid usage. I think it might be the power brick -- the LED on the brick lights up green but the red/blue power indicator on the monitor itself is off, and the monitor subsequently won't turn on. Can anyone confirm?


----------



## BulletSponge

When my brick started to fail I would hear a click, and the green light on it was flashing. New bricks can be found in Amazon for @ $10.


----------



## RobCrezz

Managed to get my qnix to work with my alienware 15 r2 laptop using this startech displayport (usb-c) to DVI adapter. Works great in both windows (using intel graphics) and games (using nvidia graphics).

However, I cannot get the refresh rate to go higher in the intel utility, when i try and raise the hz it just says "insufficent bandwidth". any ideas?


----------



## Rivered082

My kids were wrestling around this weekend, and knocked over my monitor. The LCD panel is cracked, so I was wondering if anybody has been able to find a replacement panel anywhere? I have the PLS screen. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## poolkolli

I have opened up my QNIX to remove the stand. Not sure if I did something, but the bottom left corner of my screen turned a little darker than rest. I have opened it up again completely this time and tried different solution I found online.But none of them worked. Have any one else has the same problem. Can you tell if this something that can fixed or do I need to buy a new monitor.


----------



## kouki monster

Is anyone having issues with their monitor recently with AMD cards? I keep getting 'black' screens and random crashes and im not sure if the monitor overclock is causing it or just the drivers causes crashes on my old card (HD 7950)


----------



## RodinK

Does anyone have Surface series that was able to hook up with qnix2710?

I have the surface book and I want to hook it up with my qnix2710 that has only DVI-D port.

I searched the forums and general consensus seems to be using Accell miniDP to DVI D active adapter (for Mac users anyway)

I don't care about getting my monitor overclocked as long as it's above 60hz.

Any insight on if this product works on surface is greatly appreciated!


----------



## makeyafamous226

My Qnix 1440p Just stopped working.. The back light comes on & my pc recognizes it still but no image.. iIcant even get the menu to show?!!! First time poster.


----------



## Levelog

I think my 2710 is nearing it's end of use. I love the thing, picked it up for $300 a few years ago and it takes 100hz like a champ, but I think I'm going to be migrating to a 1440p 144hz Freesync IPS monitor once Vega drops. Anyone using the qnix with Linux? It'll likely be replacing my 2560x1080 IPS ultrawide on that box.


----------



## FinChickenn

Hey all. I've had my qnix qx2710 for about 7 months now and have loved using it during the time. Last night I realized a vertical blue line going down the left side of the panel. I have disassembled my monitor before so that is what I have done this time as well. I have unplugged the LVDS cables from the panel itself and plugged them back in only to still see the blue line. I am worried to remove the other ends of the LVDS cables from the circuit board (I believe it's called a t-con board). I don't want to force the cable from its secured location and break anything.

Here are some images of my removed cables with the other ends still in tact with the t-con board.

https://gyazo.com/0d7643b21cad545baeea6e3f0022b894
https://gyazo.com/e709523f64b5508ee2410f27629ed848
https://gyazo.com/7277ac8d3db3903999c3b3e03ed687b1

Can some one confirm with me that these are safe to remove. I'm hoping that I do not have an issue with my panel and that it is just a cable issue. Also I would appreciate it if someone could explain how to remove these cables as when I tried removing them myself, I felt too much resistance. Thank you so much.


----------



## RodinK

Ok I purchased gofanco mini DP to dvi ACTIVE adapter and it works flawlessly with my Surface Book. I didn't overclock the monitor so I'm not too sure if this will work in overclocked settings


----------



## fleetfeather

Can I run my Shimian 60hz DVI-D monitor off an iGPU using a motherboard with DP1.1 in conjunction with an active DP to DVI adapter?

Looking to downsize a rig and bail on discrete graphics


----------



## Aru3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aru3*
> 
> Hello! I accidentally my Q-nix DP2710 monitor some time ago. It was running at 120 Hz JUST fine, for months and months, and then I destroyed it with one fateful misclick. (I set the refresh too high by accident, IMMEDIATELY fixed it, but alas it was too late because it failed entirely shortly afterward.) I adored this monitor, so, so much... it is by far the best I have ever owned. My most prideful purchase.
> 
> So, I need to know how to fix it. I tried searching this thread but, there are so many pages. I was wondering if someone could help, or at least point me to relevant posts? I have a soldering iron, I can buy a multimeter if needed. But since this is a popular monitor, I presume that others have had similar issues, and already know where the problem is. So, what component do I need to replace on the board, and where is it? A capacitor? A transistor? And where might I find a suitable replacement? I presume, that no ordinary replacement will do, since the first one burned out. That I will need a high quality replacement, something that can handle very high frequency operation, to help prevent this from happening again. Please, can anyone help? My monitor has been dead for... I don't know, many months now, and I desperately want it back, especially since I will soon be getting a graphics card upgrade. The high quality LED lit IPS panel, the low input latency (DVI-D and no on-screen menus), the high refresh rate, and at 2560 x 1440, it was intoxicating, everything I could possibly want in a monitor. And with only one dead pixel, not even in the center zone. Except that I broke it.


Has anyone had success repairing this monitor, who might point me in the right direction? Or, otherwise, where might I be able to purchase replacement boards comparable to the one it came with? I'm rather desperate to get this monitor working again, but I don't know where to start.


----------



## THFourteen

I'm in a temporary situation where I need to drive my qnix off the igpu on a z97m anniversary motherboard

I tried using the dvi output but all I get is cycling colours.

Will an hdmi to dvi-D cable work, even at 1080p?

I am building a water cooling loop which means my GPU and decent motherboard are out of commission until I'm finished!


----------



## Big Red Doge

How would I go about using a dual monitor setup for the single output qniz 2710 if I only have one dvi-d output on my gpu?

Thanks!


----------



## Quisp

Hello again-

I thought I'd give another update regarding my three X-Star purchases from September, 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21860#post_23169288

After two years of ownership and usage, my three X-Stars are still working just fine.

All monitors are powered up 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.

No issues to report&#8230;.


----------



## THFourteen

Has anyone ever seen artifacting like this before?

I am on a temporary computer using a Radeon HD 6870 which has a dvi-D output and I've tried two different cables with the same artifacting.

It's not Windows settings because I see the same artifacting on the bios screen.

There was no artifacting when I was using my 980ti


----------



## pLuhhmm

Anyone know why I can't get 120Hz a day after fresh installing Windows 10 along with my new GTX 1080? Can only get 110Hz now. I assume it has to do with the 1080.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> just found out, 1070/1080 does not work with overclocked Qnix right? at least not booting into windows with them. you can set the OC in windows but booting anything above 81hz results in graphic errors.



I just got a GTX 1080 and I ran into these issues:
Upon reformatting Windows I had to use a separate monitor to install the Nvidia drivers. Now all 3 monitors (1 DP, 1 HDMI, and 1 QNIX DVI-DL).

Cannot maintain 120Hz table anymore. Was fine before with my SLI 670s with Windows 10. Now I'm only stable at 110Hz (havn't tried anything other than 110).


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THFourteen*
> 
> Has anyone ever seen artifacting like this before?
> 
> I am on a temporary computer using a Radeon HD 6870 which has a dvi-D output and I've tried two different cables with the same artifacting.
> 
> It's not Windows settings because I see the same artifacting on the bios screen.
> 
> There was no artifacting when I was using my 980ti


I had this when I was on my 460 1GB and haven't had it since on my 780/980Ti, might be a bandwidth problem on the older generation cards.


----------



## THE-NOOB

i am looking for a 1440p monitor for gaming and movies
do i buy
Details about Pixio PX274 27-inch 2560x1440 WQHD PC Monitor - QHD LED DVI-D HDMI Displayport
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pixio-PX274-27-inch-2560x1440-WQHD-PC-Monitor-QHD-LED-DVI-D-HDMI-Displayport-/262604838926?hash=item3d2477d80e:g:coAAAOSwzJ5XesLK#shpCntId
or
QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll [Glossy] 27" 2560x1440 SAMSUNG PLS Panel PC Monitor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111482846269?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true&rmvSB=true

or is there better newer model ?


----------



## Zacharybinx34

Is there anyway to fix the monitor stand from bending so much? If I don't get it JUST right, it won't stay upright how it should.


----------



## THFourteen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> I had this when I was on my 460 1GB and haven't had it since on my 780/980Ti, might be a bandwidth problem on the older generation cards.


Thanks it looks like you were right at least on the DVI output bandwidth.

I bought an active Mini DisplayPort to DVI-D adaptors from kenable for £10 and it works! Has bandwidth of 10.2 gb apparently. Haven't tried over clocking, don't see the point on my 6870 but at least it's working now!


----------



## I_am_McLovin

Using one qnix one xstar. Rebooted today and now my xstar screen won't turn on at all. Power button flashes red but no picture. Changed absolutely nothing

Dvi is completely in and I even tried another dvi cable. Nothing

Any ideas?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I_am_McLovin*
> 
> Using one qnix one xstar. Rebooted today and now my xstar screen won't turn on at all. Power button flashes red but no picture. Changed absolutely nothing
> 
> Dvi is completely in and I even tried another dvi cable. Nothing
> 
> Any ideas?


Is the green light on the power brick flashing?


----------



## zeeee4

Is there a nice stand for this monitor that anyone has found which will make it tilt and move up and down etc?


----------



## hutt132

I have a 4 year old Qnix QX2710 OCed to 110Hz and the board in it is starting to go out on it. The power plug going into the monitor gets extremely hot and melted it a bit. I tested a working power brick from another QX2710 monitor and the power plug also gets hot in the monitor with the dying board. Anyone know where I can buy a good spare board to replace it with and still overclock?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hutt132*
> 
> I have a 4 year old Qnix QX2710 OCed to 110Hz and the board in it is starting to go out on it. The power plug going into the monitor gets extremely hot and melted it a bit. I tested a working power brick from another QX2710 monitor and the power plug also gets hot in the monitor with the dying board. Anyone know where I can buy a good spare board to replace it with and still overclock?


Overheated plug would suggest a poor connection.

http://www.judgeelectrical.co.uk/domestic-electrical/plugs-and-sockets/electrical-plug-hot.html


----------



## iMica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Is the green light on the power brick flashing?


Just wondering what does the blinking mean?

Mines blinking and the monitor shows zero sign of life but when I plug it in windows recognizes that its there.

Ive also tried three different power bricks and all three are blinking


----------



## Anurania

I'm considering getting a QX2710 but I'm having difficulty choosing between the DVI version and the multi version.

I'm confused about the resolution issue with the DVI version lacking the usual circuitry. Does it only function while an operating system is feeding it a 1440p signal? Can it display the computer's BIOS screen? I'll be building a system so I'll need a monitor that can display those screens and install an operating system. What about non-native resolutions, will it display when the system is feeding it another resolution, for example when an older game switches to 800x600 in full screen mode?

Is one version considered to have better image quality than the other?


----------



## egyptionsr2buff

So after a month or so of ordering parts for my Qnix I finally got a new LVDS cable from Korea, I ran into a new problem. The LVDS connector on the LCD panel is loose and when I plug the LVDS cable into it the monitor won't display a picture unless I press really firmly on it. I have uploaded a picture showing a yellow arrow and circle describing the part that is slightly loose. With just a little pressure it works and upon examination it is not stuck to the board itself. Is this something as simple as soldering that spot? The red arrow is a normal one that is not loose.


----------



## shadowhawxatron

Took the frame apart and placed it on a glass table. The metal frame itself is 100 percent flat. I guess I'll try the tape mod.


----------



## kenshinsars

good luck dude. did the same with my X-Star, once put back together, got bright spots all across the bottom, never did get it back to normal. tape or otherwise.


----------



## shadowhawxatron

Turns out the panel itself is fkd


----------



## Techno Pride

Wow, this thread is still going on. I still have the Samsung PLS version of the QX2710 since Apr 2014, no overclocking.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techno Pride*
> 
> Wow, this thread is still going on. I still have the Samsung PLS version of the QX2710 since Apr 2014, no overclocking.


Yes, me too, also Samsung PLS but Oce'd to 100Hz (could have better response time). It can handle 105Hz without artifacting. Would wish I can get 120Hz. Also would be great if it has g-sync. Then it would be perfect







Think I want much but why not ?









Btw, don't you know guys what happened with these cheap Koreans overclockable panels ? Why they did stop producing them ? There is nothing new for years, only some old stock. It's a shame because it's a great thing for the money...


----------



## Ovrclck

So what's the next big thing coming from a Qnix @ 110hz? I'm looking to add a second equivalent that can overclock without the need of free-sync or g-sync. Any recommendations?









Edit: I found two Qnix for sale for $400, is that a good deal? These were manufactured in 2013.


----------



## panosxidis

Guys Can you send me please icc profile for 120hz qnix qx 2710?thank you because i have problem download


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panosxidis*
> 
> Guys Can you send me please icc profile for 120hz qnix qx 2710?thank you because i have problem download


Sure.

FavoriteColorSustainerprofiles.zip 69k .zip file


----------



## panosxidis

i cant download this forum has a problem uploading difrent method no this theard thank you


----------



## Ovrclck

Pm me your email


----------



## McChopper

Hi guys,
Iam from germany and ive been loking the entire past week all day long for what monitor to buy.

Iam sick of my tn panel poor washed out colours.

I want a 144p ips 144 hz monitor, 100hz or 96hz is fine too thats why ive been looking for those korean screens.
At first i wanted to buy the qx2710 but after i heard about them switching the panels and the problems regarding it , iam not so sure anymore.

What about this Monitor http://www.ebay.de/itm/131629553773?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ?
is the picture quality up with the qx2710 and can i oc it to atleast 96 hz?

I really dont know what to buy anymore , the more i look the more confused i get ^^
But regular 144hz 1440p ips panels are still just to expensive atm.


----------



## panosxidis

my email is [email protected]


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McChopper*
> 
> Hi guys,
> Iam from germany and ive been loking the entire past week all day long for what monitor to buy.
> 
> Iam sick of my tn panel poor washed out colours.
> 
> I want a 144p ips 144 hz monitor, 100hz or 96hz is fine too thats why ive been looking for those korean screens.
> At first i wanted to buy the qx2710 but after i heard about them switching the panels and the problems regarding it , iam not so sure anymore.
> 
> What about this Monitor http://www.ebay.de/itm/131629553773?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ?
> is the picture quality up with the qx2710 and can i oc it to atleast 96 hz?
> 
> I really dont know what to buy anymore , the more i look the more confused i get ^^
> But regular 144hz 1440p ips panels are still just to expensive atm.


Check this thread out. That Qnix does not overclock too well.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1611496/qnix-qx-2710-vs-qnix-qhd-2730r#post_25519769


----------



## McChopper

I currently have the option tu buy a http://www.ebay.de/itm/222254814524 ASUS MG279Q ips for 470 Euro.

Should i buy this one instead of importing the Crossover 27V/Crossover 27 fast 144hz for 350/400 Euro + cause its coming to germany i have to pay taxes like 80 euros extra.

so the Crossover 27 fast would cost me like 500 Euros so more then the MG279Q , but i heard the MG279Q has some issues with backlightbleeding dead pixels etc....

Iam looking for like 5 days straight now for what to buy, its really exhausting ^^

What should i buy?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McChopper*
> 
> I currently have the option tu buy a http://www.ebay.de/itm/222254814524 ASUS MG279Q ips for 470 Euro.
> 
> Should i buy this one instead of importing the Crossover 27V/Crossover 27 fast 144hz for 350/400 Euro + cause its coming to germany i have to pay taxes like 80 euros extra.
> 
> so the Crossover 27 fast would cost me like 500 Euros so more then the MG279Q , but i heard the MG279Q has some issues with backlightbleeding dead pixels etc....
> 
> Iam looking for like 5 days straight now for what to buy, its really exhausting ^^
> 
> What should i buy?


I'd pick the Asus. You'll have an easier time with replacement, if need be, and you're guaranteed 144Hz.


----------



## kenshinsars

Can you push anywhere near 144 ? that is the question, and I doubt SLI 780Tis will push anywhere near 144 in the majority of games, not many systems can push anywhere near 144


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> Can you push anywhere near 144 ? that is the question, and I doubt SLI 780Tis will push anywhere near 144 in the majority of games, not many systems can push anywhere near 144


Nope, and with latest revisions you can get max. around 100Hz. I got mine to 105Hz, but above there are artifacts.


----------



## LukasCS

Driver link seems to be dead.. anyone got a link?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McChopper*
> 
> I currently have the option tu buy a http://www.ebay.de/itm/222254814524 ASUS MG279Q ips for 470 Euro.
> 
> Should i buy this one instead of importing the Crossover 27V/Crossover 27 fast 144hz for 350/400 Euro + cause its coming to germany i have to pay taxes like 80 euros extra.
> 
> so the Crossover 27 fast would cost me like 500 Euros so more then the MG279Q , but i heard the MG279Q has some issues with backlightbleeding dead pixels etc....
> 
> Iam looking for like 5 days straight now for what to buy, its really exhausting ^^
> 
> What should i buy?


PG279Q = 144Hz-IPS-Panel with Nvidia G-Sync
MG279Q = 144Hz-IPS-Panel with AMD FreeSync

If you do go with the Asus, make sure you get the correct model depending on what card you are running.


----------



## kenshinsars

my point is, if you cannot push anywhere near 144, then having a 144Hz monitor seems overkill if your not going to utilize it to its fullest. as far as the artifacting goes, you should try getting the shortest cable that works for you and in a lower numbered AWG rating, on my QNIX I was able to get 105Hz with the cable that came with it, ordered a 3" 26AWG I believe and I can now push 120Hz. Did not need to change cables though on my X-Star DP2710, it is able to push 126Hz. But Im using a GTX 970, so I keep the refresh on them at 100Hz.. no need for anything higher to be honest


----------



## Tmplt

After having the monitor for almost three years, I believe my QX2710 has kicked the bucket.
On the off-chance someone else has experienced this, and that the problem may be fixed, I'll ask here before ordering a new one.

When I start the monitor a pulsing vibration-ish noise can be heard, which continues until I turn the monitor off. It reminds a lot of a chassi vibrating.
On the screen, a green-and-black fading spreads from the middle out, until the whole monitor is black. Some horizontal scan-lines can be seen. This can be reproduced by just restarting the monitor.

Has this happened for someone else? Do you know what causes it and if it can be fixed?

*Update:*
I believe that the power brick is at fault here. The noise I mentioned was the built-in speakers, which I've now disconnected. While doing that I also took a look at the monitor's circuit board, which looked as fine as could be.

I tried starting the monitor again now after about 10h of being unplugged. Now, instead of everything just fading away, the image looks alright for a second or two after which a broad horizontal scanline will slide from top to bottom, akin to what you see if you record a monitor with a camera -- there is most likely a term for this I'm missing. Shortly after this, the screen fades to black and the power light goes out.

The power brick also smells off.

I'm gonna order a new one tomorrow. Is there any special retailer I should look out for?


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tmplt*
> 
> After having the monitor for almost three years, I believe my QX2710 has kicked the bucket.
> On the off-chance someone else has experienced this, and that the problem may be fixed, I'll ask here before ordering a new one.
> 
> When I start the monitor a pulsing vibration-ish noise can be heard, which continues until I turn the monitor off. It reminds a lot of a chassi vibrating.
> On the screen, a green-and-black fading spreads from the middle out, until the whole monitor is black. Some horizontal scan-lines can be seen. This can be reproduced by just restarting the monitor.
> 
> Has this happened for someone else? Do you know what causes it and if it can be fixed?
> 
> *Update:*
> I believe that the power brick is at fault here. The noise I mentioned was the built-in speakers, which I've now disconnected. While doing that I also took a look at the monitor's circuit board, which looked as fine as could be.
> 
> I tried starting the monitor again now after about 10h of being unplugged. Now, instead of everything just fading away, the image looks alright for a second or two after which a broad horizontal scanline will slide from top to bottom, akin to what you see if you record a monitor with a camera -- there is most likely a term for this I'm missing. Shortly after this, the screen fades to black and the power light goes out.
> 
> The power brick also smells off.
> 
> I'm gonna order a new one tomorrow. Is there any special retailer I should look out for?


I've seen some ebay sellers offering replacement power bricks but please post back if you manage to find one locally. It would be good to have a faster option.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Yes, me too, also Samsung PLS but Oce'd to 100Hz (could have better response time). It can handle 105Hz without artifacting. Would wish I can get 120Hz. Also would be great if it has g-sync. Then it would be perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I want much but why not ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, don't you know guys what happened with these cheap Koreans overclockable panels ? Why they did stop producing them ? There is nothing new for years, only some old stock. It's a shame because it's a great thing for the money...


My guess is that either the supply of the boards ran out or the Koreans grew tired of people breaking them and trying to blame the seller and started to lock them down.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> My guess is that either the supply of the boards ran out or the Koreans grew tired of people breaking them and trying to blame the seller and started to lock them down.


I wouldn't be surprised if the name brand manufacturers just stopped selling panels that didn't meet QC standards to Korean resellers so the only 1440 high refresh rate options are their full price offerings.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> I wouldn't be surprised if the name brand manufacturers just stopped selling panels that didn't meet QC standards to Korean resellers so the only 1440 high refresh rate options are their full price offerings.


Possibly but I doubt it because the alternative for Samsung and LG would be throwing the B Grade panels into a dumpster.


----------



## pLuhhmm

Anyone having issues in games, specifcally in WoW maintain your OC Hz when VLC or Twitch is open? Doesn't seem to change if Youtube is playing. It's really obvious when it happens and is consistent.


----------



## kalajukka

I'm considering to buy one of these. Is it still worth it?

Is this the right one?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/111380363963?hash=item19eec97abb:g:uhEAAOSw8lBTmnm8

Thanks


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalajukka*
> 
> I'm considering to buy one of these. Is it still worth it?
> 
> Is this the right one?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/111380363963?hash=item19eec97abb:g:uhEAAOSw8lBTmnm8
> 
> Thanks


At this point possibly not. You can often get grade A 1440p IPS monitors for around £200-250 locally these days. The Korean panels aren't the bargain that they were 2-3 years ago.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> At this point possibly not. You can often get grade A 1440p IPS monitors for around £200-250 locally these days. The Korean panels aren't the bargain that they were 2-3 years ago.


Yup. Hence no need to put up with that stand.


----------



## Scotty99

Do people still buy these screens? I regularly see new name brand 1440p panels for 200-250 with 3 year warranty.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Do people still buy these screens? I regularly see new name brand 1440p panels for 200-250 with 3 year warranty.


Exactly. When I bought my Qnix 3 years ago an equivalent screen in the US/Europe/Japan would have cost 2-3 times as much but that just isn't the case anymore.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Do people still buy these screens? I regularly see new name brand 1440p panels for 200-250 with 3 year warranty.


not anymore as the qnix and xstar have pwm issues and the crossover 2795 is being phased out. otherwise yes 60hz name brand 1440p monitors will give people more warranty reassurance for about the same price in the $250 - $400 range.

still want a cheap 96hz-120hz 1440p monitor though? answer is still the korean monitors.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> not anymore as the qnix and xstar have pwm issues and the crossover 2795 is being phased out. otherwise yes 60hz name brand 1440p monitors will give people more warranty reassurance for about the same price in the $250 - $400 range.
> 
> still want a cheap 96hz-120hz 1440p monitor though? answer is still the korean monitors.


There's always Craigslist here in the US. I see used ones all the time for the older non pwm versions.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Do people still buy these screens? I regularly see new name brand 1440p panels for 200-250 with 3 year warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> not anymore as the qnix and xstar have pwm issues and the crossover 2795 is being phased out. otherwise yes 60hz name brand 1440p monitors will give people more warranty reassurance for about the same price in the $250 - $400 range.
> 
> still want a cheap 96hz-120hz 1440p monitor though? answer is still the korean monitors.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> not anymore as the qnix and xstar have pwm issues and the crossover 2795 is being phased out. otherwise yes 60hz name brand 1440p monitors will give people more warranty reassurance for about the same price in the $250 - $400 range.
> 
> still want a cheap 96hz-120hz 1440p monitor though? answer is still the korean monitors.
> 
> 
> 
> There's always Craigslist here in the US. I see used ones all the time for the older non pwm versions.
Click to expand...

Well said doco .... +R









Great tip Ovrdlck ... +R ... An older Samsung PLS (OC'd no PWM) is miles ahead of ANY of the namebrand panels out there. Even a 96Hz OC is night n day better than 60Hz ... IF you can find a "glossy" like fullbans above I'd jump on it in a second if I lived in the same country!

I've had my 2 glossy panels (Samsung/LG see sig) side by side against all the Acer/Asus 1440p/144Hz AUO panels and their PQ was so bad I sent them all back. Even good QC samples look like dogcrap side by side, especially at 2.5x's the cost







... Hopefully my aging glossy/120Hz panels can hold out until OLED is a viable option. If any of the Koreans were to come out with an equivalent Cat2B @ sub $300 ...THEY WOULD SELL LIKE HOTCAKES!

Here's a potential "gem" ... do your homework, get a black background picture to check BLB etc etc but if I didn't already have one, I'd take a serious look at this one ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/282219584933?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Here's a potential "gem" ... do your homework, get a black background picture to check BLB etc etc but if I didn't already have one, I'd take a serious look at this one ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/282219584933?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Is the screen glossy or matte? I don't remember. Killer deal either way I see it!


----------



## quovadis123

Guys,
not going to read all this thread, way too long.
I just bought a Qnix UHD3216R, that I am using for work in photoshop. It is unplayable in games at 60hz.

I also need a 1440p 27" for gaming. What are the newest and greatest models from Qnix and crossover?
I do need color accuracy so probably an IPS/PLS, could be better.

I also need the monitor to be overclockable to 100hz at least.

Any ideas?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quovadis123*
> 
> Guys,
> not going to read all this thread, way too long.
> I just bought a Qnix UHD3216R, that I am using for work in photoshop. It is unplayable in games at 60hz.
> 
> I also need a 1440p 27" for gaming. What are the newest and greatest models from Qnix and crossover?
> I do need color accuracy so probably an IPS/PLS, could be better.
> 
> I also need the monitor to be overclockable to 100hz at least.
> 
> Any ideas?


Grab a Crossover 2795QHD 27" 1440P and most overclock to 100Hz - Excellent color accuracy, perfect whites, excellent black, very bright. I use mine mostly for gaming and it's been excellent for the year I've owned it.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ovrclck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Here's a potential "gem" ... do your homework, get a black background picture to check BLB etc etc but if I didn't already have one, I'd take a serious look at this one ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/282219584933?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> 
> 
> Is the screen glossy or matte? I don't remember. Killer deal either way I see it!
Click to expand...

All Cat2B's were Glossy


----------



## mytho-x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Do people still buy these screens? I regularly see new name brand 1440p panels for 200-250 with 3 year warranty.


Where are you seeing 27" 1440p panels that can do 96Hz for $200-$250? I'm in the market for one and a brand name is $400 at best with these specs.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mytho-x*
> 
> Where are you seeing 27" 1440p panels that can do 96Hz for $200-$250? I'm in the market for one and a brand name is $400 at best with these specs.


Keep an eye out on Newegg, maybe Amazon as well. I have bought two QNIX for $250 with the glossy screens. I prefer my Crossover 2795QHD with the matte since it has a better panel in it but the QNIX often goes on sale since it now has an inferior (but still great) panel compared to the ones they used originally and the ones now used in the Crossover 2795.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mytho-x*
> 
> Where are you seeing 27" 1440p panels that can do 96Hz for $200-$250? I'm in the market for one and a brand name is $400 at best with these specs.


Be aware that it may be a different currency. 200-250 is standard for an IPS 1440 panel in Britain now but the British currency is worth more than the dollar, even if the exchange rate is lower than usual atm.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure PWM is a non-issue if the backlight it on full brightness..


----------



## Infinite Jest

@Death2Consoles

Not true. It is definitely lessened compared to any other brightness setting, but it is still a problem when panning in pretty much any game.


----------



## Droogie

So, are the good overclockable Korean monitors a thing of the past? Or are there any that still overclock well and look good?

Been working 60+ hours a week. Upgrading to a 1070 and 1440p to convince myself it has been worth the overtime lol.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> So, are the good overclockable Korean monitors a thing of the past? Or are there any that still overclock well and look good?
> 
> Been working 60+ hours a week. Upgrading to a 1070 and 1440p to convince myself it has been worth the overtime lol.


Yeah, the OC ones were a 2013-2014 thing. I know someone personally who bought one a couple of months after I did and OC'd it and he said that it started to show defects after a year. I have had mine for 3 years and have only ever OC'd it once (just to see if it could be done) and mine is still fine. Could have just been a luck of the draw thing but I never thought OCing them seemed like the best idea tbh.

You may just be better off picking up a Dell or something instead. With prices like this around, there's very little point in importing one these days.

http://www.ebuyer.com/722126-hannsg-hq271hpg-27-2k-wqhd-ips-monitor-hq271hpg


----------



## Droogie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Yeah, the OC ones were a 2013-2014 thing. I know someone personally who bought one a couple of months after I did and OC'd it and he said that it started to show defects after a year. I have had mine for 3 years and have only ever OC'd it once (just to see if it could be done) and mine is still fine. Could have just been a luck of the draw thing but I never thought OCing them seemed like the best idea tbh.
> 
> You may just be better off picking up a Dell or something instead. With prices like this around, there's very little point in importing one these days.
> 
> http://www.ebuyer.com/722126-hannsg-hq271hpg-27-2k-wqhd-ips-monitor-hq271hpg


Well, the whole point of importing was for the refresh rate.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Droogie*
> 
> http://www.ebuyer.com/722126-hannsg-hq271hpg-27-2k-wqhd-ips-monitor-hq271hpg


Well, the whole point of importing was for the refresh rate.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> And I get it if you've ever experienced even 85Hz plus, how in the world anyone could go back to 60Hz is beyond me


I do quite like those Yamasaki 4k ones but there is no way in hell that I am venturing down the 4k rabbit hole. Just making the 2k jump cost me a fortune.

I OC'd mine for long enough for a couple of games of CS:GO and then went back to 60Hz. It has been a couple of years now so I guess I'm used to it.


----------



## Droogie

I currently have an Asus 120hz 1080p monitor. I will never go back to 60hz.i can't even stand it in windows browsing.

Also, for future reference, I'm in the US







GBP pricing doesn't do much for me.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> @Death2Consoles
> 
> Not true. It is definitely lessened compared to any other brightness setting, but it is still a problem when panning in pretty much any game.


I see, thanks for the info.. The QNIX has PWM, the Crossover does not.


----------



## I_am_McLovin

it appears that my motherboard in the monitor has died since the power light is stuck at red and wont give display no matter what

is there anything I can do or is my monitor pretty much dead? Can't find the replacement part anywhere..


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I_am_McLovin*
> 
> it appears that my motherboard in the monitor has died since the power light is stuck at red and wont give display no matter what
> 
> is there anything I can do or is my monitor pretty much dead? Can't find the replacement part anywhere..


Check the power brick. Apparently a faulty power brick can cause some crazy behaviour on these monitors.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *I_am_McLovin*
> 
> it appears that my motherboard in the monitor has died since the power light is stuck at red and wont give display no matter what
> 
> is there anything I can do or is my monitor pretty much dead? Can't find the replacement part anywhere..
> 
> 
> 
> Check the power brick. Apparently a faulty power brick can cause some crazy behaviour on these monitors.
Click to expand...

+R for good tip, always the 1st thing to check








We have saved many a monitor in this thread over the years, by trouble-shooting the cheap power bricks 1st


----------



## Skye12977

So I have two Korean monitors, the first is just a Qnix 1440 single DVI input, and the second is X-STAR DP2710 (the monitor in question).
I'll deal with over-clocking the Qnix later...

This is the first time I've tried to use HDMI on this X-STAR DP2710 monitor, and I've got the option to run 4k.
I've read somewhere that the screen can do virtual 4k, but I'm not sure if that is what I'm experiencing.
I'm using the monitor off from my gaming laptop that has a 780m.
4k isn't stable on the monitor, I get some flickering and black screens.
I'm using the screen now on a GTX 980 and it seems much more stable, but I still get some black screens and flickering
Is there any way to make 4k stable on this monitor?
Maybe make a custom resolution @ 4k lower than 29hz? or would there be a way to make it stable @ 4k at 30hz?


----------



## Luxer

I've had mine over a year now running at a constant 110hz with no issues yet.


----------



## I_am_McLovin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> +R for good tip, always the 1st thing to check
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have saved many a monitor in this thread over the years, by trouble-shooting the cheap power bricks 1st


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Check the power brick. Apparently a faulty power brick can cause some crazy behaviour on these monitors.


I will defiently check that out thanks... might sound dumb but where exactly can I get a power brick for it? I have the X star model.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I_am_McLovin*
> 
> I will defiently check that out thanks... might sound dumb but where exactly can I get a power brick for it? I have the X star model.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I_am_McLovin*
> 
> I will defiently check that out thanks... might sound dumb but where exactly can I get a power brick for it? I have the X star model.


Check the required inputs on your monitor's current PSU before ordering anything but usually you can just get a generic one like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-Adapter-Charger-Benq-Monitors/dp/B0023Y9EQC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478303198&sr=8-3&keywords=monitor+power+supply

It won't cost much because these Korean monitors are built using cheap surplus parts after all.


----------



## Astire

Anyone else having problems with Battlefield 1 on QNIX QX2710LED when using refresh rate over 60 Hz?

Here´s a video of me setting the refresh rate to 90 Hz on the battlefield 1 menu.

Black flickering, the new "375.76 -hotfix"-drivers didn´t help on this one.
Running Windows 10.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astire*
> 
> Anyone else having problems with Battlefield 1 on QNIX QX2710LED when using refresh rate over 60 Hz?
> 
> Here´s a video of me setting the refresh rate to 90 Hz on the battlefield 1 menu.
> 
> Black flickering, the new "375.76 -hotfix"-drivers didn´t help on this one.
> Running Windows 10.


Do you have "prefer maximum performance" selected in Nvidia Control Panel? Do you have the QNIX monitor driver installed?


----------



## Tmplt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tmplt*
> 
> *Update:*
> I believe that the power brick is at fault here. The noise I mentioned was the built-in speakers, which I've now disconnected. While doing that I also took a look at the monitor's circuit board, which looked as fine as could be.
> 
> [...]
> 
> I'm gonna order a new one tomorrow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> We have saved many a monitor in this thread over the years, by trouble-shooting the cheap power bricks 1st


Plus one on that count. My monitor now works as expected with the power brick I ordered (UpBright model 125000).


----------



## quovadis123

Here is the GLOSSY GLARE
he finally posted it. If you guys want a 27" with incredible color here it is. Not specifically a gaming monitor.

We listed the glare one.

Perfect pixel one
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAB895264835&ignorebbr=1

Usual one
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAB8950N5356&ignorebbr=1

The prices are the best for you or your friends.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quovadis123*
> 
> Here is the GLOSSY GLARE
> he finally posted it. If you guys want a 27" with incredible color here it is. Not specifically a gaming monitor.
> 
> We listed the glare one.
> 
> Perfect pixel one
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAB895264835&ignorebbr=1
> 
> Usual one
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAB8950N5356&ignorebbr=1
> 
> The prices are the best for you or your friends.


I just don't know why you would go for that when you can get something like this for not all that much more.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824005632

Or this for around the same price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824014383


----------



## quovadis123

They are not high gloss


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quovadis123*
> 
> They are not high gloss


Do people actually like the glossy ones? I looked at them when I bought mine years ago but I was worried about reflections.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *quovadis123*
> 
> They are not high gloss
> 
> 
> 
> Do people actually like the glossy ones? I looked at them when I bought mine years ago but I was worried about reflections.
Click to expand...

Nice Friggin Find ... +R









Has anyone overclocked one of these with Blurbusters screenshot "Proof"? NCX where are you?









@bloodrose ... about 90% of Professionals will not accept anything but a glossy screen! Yea it is that big of a deal for many of us ... once your a true "Glossy Aficionado" you'll never settle for less, much like 120Hz vs 60Hz


----------



## Death2Consoles

I love glossy screens! I just hate them during the day since I'd rather not sit in the dark if I happen to be gaming all day.. the reflections can be pretty brutal if you don't have a perfect spot for your PC.


----------



## TomcatV

Pretty Screaming deal ... and I suspect being older X-Star stock that these "may" be the older "preferred" L02 panels ...

*[/Pixel Perfect $179.00 B] ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-2560x1440-27-QHD-Monitor-/321135502506?hash=item4ac52ae4aa*


----------



## misiak

I like this statement on every seller's page:

"With Perfect pixel option, 0 ~ 3 dead pixel is possible. "

I don't know how about you but in my opinion pixel perfect is a monitor with !ZERO! dead or stuck pixels. I think they treat us as idiots...


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> I like this statement on every seller's page:
> 
> "With Perfect pixel option, 0 ~ 3 dead pixel is possible. "
> 
> I don't know how about you but in my opinion pixel perfect is a monitor with !ZERO! dead or stuck pixels. I think they treat us as idiots...


Pretty hard to see a dead pixel on a monitor with this many pixels - They're tiny. Some sellers reimburse if there are more than one near the middle of the screen. Of the three I've seen with my own two eyes, two with perfect pixel, one without, none of them had any dead pixels. If they did, I didn't see them on any full screen color tests.


----------



## l1ghtf1ghter

Hi all - new user here, just found this thread after some searching. I recently bought a X-STAR DP2710 off eBay, great deal. Thus far I'm pretty pleased with the display -- great resolution, price, etc. However, I've realized that after a few hours of use (more than 4, say) I develop pretty horrible headaches. Eye strain, nausea, the whole package, and have to step away. After some searching I see that this is not uncommon, and likely a result of PWM. My question is, is there anything I can do to manage this? Adjust the settings on the graphics card or something to make it less severe or noticeable? This is the first monitor I've used that gives me this problem, so unsure of how to proceed. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l1ghtf1ghter*
> 
> Hi all - new user here, just found this thread after some searching. I recently bought a X-STAR DP2710 off eBay, great deal. Thus far I'm pretty pleased with the display -- great resolution, price, etc. However, I've realized that after a few hours of use (more than 4, say) I develop pretty horrible headaches. Eye strain, nausea, the whole package, and have to step away. After some searching I see that this is not uncommon, and likely a result of PWM. My question is, is there anything I can do to manage this? Adjust the settings on the graphics card or something to make it less severe or noticeable? This is the first monitor I've used that gives me this problem, so unsure of how to proceed. Thanks for the help.


You can turn the backlight all the way up to the highest setting, which should help negate some of the effects of PWM backlighting but it might not be enough to make your headaches go away.

You can sell it and buy a Crossover which does not have PWM, if need be.

"The Crossover 2795 QHD uses a 27" 2560x1440 resolution 8 Bit, nearly grain free matte LG AH-IPS panel and can be overclocked to at least 96hz without dropping frames. The Crossover 2795 QHD does not use LED PWM Dimming unlike the Qnix/X-Star PLS panels, has excellent colour presets, high contrast and fast pixel response times." -MenacingTuba


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *l1ghtf1ghter*
> 
> Hi all - new user here, just found this thread after some searching. I recently bought a X-STAR DP2710 off eBay, great deal. Thus far I'm pretty pleased with the display -- great resolution, price, etc. However, I've realized that after a few hours of use (more than 4, say) I develop pretty horrible headaches. Eye strain, nausea, the whole package, and have to step away. After some searching I see that this is not uncommon, and likely a result of PWM. My question is, is there anything I can do to manage this? Adjust the settings on the graphics card or something to make it less severe or noticeable? This is the first monitor I've used that gives me this problem, so unsure of how to proceed. Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> 
> You can turn the backlight all the way up to the highest setting, which should help negate some of the effects of PWM backlighting but it might not be enough to make your headaches go away.
> 
> You can sell it and buy a Crossover which does not have PWM, if need be.
> 
> "The Crossover 2795 QHD uses a 27" 2560x1440 resolution 8 Bit, nearly grain free matte LG AH-IPS panel and can be overclocked to at least 96hz without dropping frames. The Crossover 2795 QHD does not use LED PWM Dimming unlike the Qnix/X-Star PLS panels, has excellent colour presets, high contrast and fast pixel response times." -MenacingTuba
Click to expand...

Spot on advise ... +R







... your "Handle" may deserve another rep









I suffer from PWM ... don't struggle with it, just sell it while it is new, you may get your money back on Craigs if it's perfect pixel and minimal BLB ... It's really to bad these, what I thought may be older gen (L02) panels have PWM ... if your one that suffers from it, it really is much more rare than people think, there is just no getting around it. Really there should be requirement standards (a Law) against releasing these panels to the public. At least there should be a bold print warning and a 100% refund available!







... However how well did it overclock? BLB and/or Glow condition?


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> I like this statement on every seller's page:
> 
> "With Perfect pixel option, 0 ~ 3 dead pixel is possible. "
> 
> I don't know how about you but in my opinion pixel perfect is a monitor with !ZERO! dead or stuck pixels. I think they treat us as idiots...


I thought that there was some margin for 0-3 even on full retail monitors provided by LG, Samsung, Benq etc and especially at this resolution.


----------



## ketetabz

Hello to all of you,

I have a chance to get one of the old Qnix overclockable ones. Yes, one of the old ones (tagged 2013-2014) had remained in the inventory of a shop and I noticed it.

I currently have a 1070 GTX and a good PC. My questions:

1. Am I going to have problems regarding overclocking with the new 1070 and the new geforce drivers in windows 10?
2. Do you still recommend me to get it now in the late of 2016?

Huge thanks in advance guys,


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> I thought that there was some margin for 0-3 even on full retail monitors provided by LG, Samsung, Benq etc and especially at this resolution.


Yes, but they don't present it like pixel perfect. This is just marketing BS of Korean sellers. For me Pixel perfect means that they will check the monitor for every damn bad or stuck pixel. If present, then check another until they find pixel perfect monitor. You know what I mean. Honestly I never saw a brand new monitor with more than 3 bad pixels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ketetabz*
> 
> Hello to all of you,
> 
> I have a chance to get one of the old Qnix overclockable ones. Yes, one of the old ones (tagged 2013-2014) had remained in the inventory of a shop and I noticed it.
> 
> I currently have a 1070 GTX and a good PC. My questions:
> 
> 1. Am I going to have problems regarding overclocking with the new 1070 and the new geforce drivers in windows 10?
> 2. Do you still recommend me to get it now in the late of 2016?
> 
> Huge thanks in advance guys,


1. No
2 Absolutely


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Yes, but they don't present it like pixel perfect. This is just marketing BS of Korean sellers. For me Pixel perfect means that they will check the monitor for every damn bad or stuck pixel. If present, then check another until they find pixel perfect monitor. You know what I mean. Honestly I never saw a brand new monitor with more than 3 bad pixels.
> 1. No
> 2 Absolutely


Accuse Chinese resellers all you like, most of them are usually at least guilty of something, but I really don't think that Korean sellers would normally be looking to scam you. At least I have never met any that have behaved in that way anyway.


----------



## misiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Accuse Chinese resellers all you like, most of them are usually at least guilty of something, but I really don't think that Korean sellers would normally be looking to scam you. At least I have never met any that have behaved in that way anyway.


I don't say they scam us but statement Pixel perfect and 0 - 3 bad/stuck pixel is just... Pixel perfect is 0 stuck or bad pixels, period. And there are honest sellers which have a true pixel perfect policy but there are others who claims pixel perfect with up to 3 bad pixels. So this is not fair.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> I don't say they scam us but statement Pixel perfect and 0 - 3 bad/stuck pixel is just... Pixel perfect is 0 stuck or bad pixels, period. And there are honest sellers which have a true pixel perfect policy but there are others who claims pixel perfect with up to 3 bad pixels. So this is not fair.


Then don't buy it. It isn't unknown for expensive Grade A+ branded monitors to ship with a couple of dead pixels. The only difference in this case is that the Koreans are being honest about the problem whereas the big brands just ignore it.


----------



## ketetabz

Thank you guys, specially misiak.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Yes, but they don't present it like pixel perfect. This is just marketing BS of Korean sellers. For me Pixel perfect means that they will check the monitor for every damn bad or stuck pixel. If present, then check another until they find pixel perfect monitor. You know what I mean. Honestly I never saw a brand new monitor with more than 3 bad pixels.
> 1. No
> 2 Absolutely


Another condition has appeared. The monitor in question is known to have 3 dead pixels. Shall I still buy it? The seller informed me, but he did not say where exactly they are.
Also, I frequently hear that the stand is bad. I just cannot figure this out by looking at the pictures of it. Why is it really that bad? I do not have any other stand and I am going to use the already provided bad stand. Will I be safe for gaming on a desk?

Thanks again guys for your recommendations.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ketetabz*
> 
> Thank you guys, specially misiak.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> Yes, but they don't present it like pixel perfect. This is just marketing BS of Korean sellers. For me Pixel perfect means that they will check the monitor for every damn bad or stuck pixel. If present, then check another until they find pixel perfect monitor. You know what I mean. Honestly I never saw a brand new monitor with more than 3 bad pixels.
> 1. No
> 2 Absolutely
> 
> 
> 
> Another condition has appeared. The monitor in question is known to have 3 dead pixels. Shall I still buy it? The seller informed me, but he did not say where exactly they are.
> Also, I frequently hear that the stand is bad. I just cannot figure this out by looking at the pictures of it. Why is it really that bad? I do not have any other stand and I am going to use the already provided bad stand. Will I be safe for gaming on a desk?
> 
> Thanks again guys for your recommendations.
Click to expand...

Pixel defects are really a personal thing? For me if it is not in a centered 14"x14" square in the middle of the screen, I tend to not notice or get used to them. They are very small at this resolution. BUT if I were paying $700-$800 for an Acer/Asus 144Hz monitor I would expect perfection as described by Misiak above!









The stand can be wobbly, if you don't have a rock solid desk and/or floor the panel will move/shake with aggressive movements. BUT it is not so bad as you can't trust it thinking a cat or something is going to "easily" knock it over









One last thing, even if it is a preferred older L02 panel, that doesn't guarantee 100% that it won't have PWM problems. Most of them didn't but some did. So if you suffer from PWM, I'd want some kind of guarantee I could return it if it causes problems for you


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misiak*
> 
> I don't say they scam us but statement Pixel perfect and 0 - 3 bad/stuck pixel is just... Pixel perfect is 0 stuck or bad pixels, period. And there are honest sellers which have a true pixel perfect policy but there are others who claims pixel perfect with up to 3 bad pixels. So this is not fair.


You're not paying them to look through monitors until they find a perfect one.. Many issues with dead pixels happen during shipping anyway so what would the point be? Do you know how expensive and time consuming it would be for them to check every monitor they sell with a perfect pixel guarantee? You're paying $10 for what is basically an insurance policy.. They collect the $10 extra from each monitor they sell with that "warranty" and then that money goes towards the profits lost if you happen to get a bad panel with dead pixels and they end up having to replace it. Don't look at it as advertising because it's not an advertisement, it's just an insurance policy to both the buyer and the seller.


----------



## VinnieLDN

QNIX QHD2410R

One dead pixel.

Two spots of light bleeding at the bottom.

1440p at 75Hz (frame-skipping at 96 / 100).


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VinnieLDN*
> 
> QNIX QHD2410R
> 
> One dead pixel.
> 
> Two spots of light bleeding at the bottom.
> 
> 1440p at 75Hz (frame-skipping at 96 / 100).


Try a different dual link DVI cable.. The one that comes with these is crap and hinders the OC. I went through four, all of which had slightly different overclocks. I think I ended up using a Coboc cable I got on Newegg for like $10 USD.


----------



## VinnieLDN

Thanks. Will try some different cables (I'm not using the one that came with the monitor).

I have a tri-monitor setup. Looks like I'm going to need to grab another couple Qinx monitors. There seems to be a resolution issue with Windows. My two side monitors are 1080p, and the middle monitor is 1440p (Windows UI scaled up 125%). This has somehow caused blurry text on the 1080p monitors. I've tried running TrueType but it has no effect.

Seems to be a scaling issue, I'd assume caused by the mis-match in resolutions. Text in the Windows UI itself (Folder names etc) looks crisp, but most other programs looks blurry and scaled.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VinnieLDN*
> 
> Thanks. Will try some different cables (I'm not using the one that came with the monitor).
> 
> I have a tri-monitor setup. Looks like I'm going to need to grab another couple Qinx monitors. There seems to be a resolution issue with Windows. My two side monitors are 1080p, and the middle monitor is 1440p (Windows UI scaled up 125%). This has somehow caused blurry text on the 1080p monitors. I've tried running TrueType but it has no effect.
> 
> Seems to be a scaling issue, I'd assume caused by the mis-match in resolutions. Text in the Windows UI itself (Folder names etc) looks crisp, but most other programs looks blurry and scaled.


Why don't you just turn the scaling off? Are you having trouble reading things at 1440p with 100% scaling? The only issues I had reading at 1440p were on websites, I use Vivaldi though so I set the automatic zoom to 105% and everything is easier to see without messing with my Windows scaling. Windows is pretty awful with scaling and it causes lots of issues with games and multi-monitor setups.


----------



## VinnieLDN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Why don't you just turn the scaling off? Are you having trouble reading things at 1440p with 100% scaling? The only issues I had reading at 1440p were on websites, I use Vivaldi though so I set the automatic zoom to 105% and everything is easier to see without messing with my Windows scaling. Windows is pretty awful with scaling and it causes lots of issues with games and multi-monitor setups.


You're right. Turning off scaling and turning Chrome's zoom up fixed the problem.

Thanks again


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VinnieLDN*
> 
> You're right. Turning off scaling and turning Chrome's zoom up fixed the problem.
> 
> Thanks again


No problem man, glad I could help


----------



## Deadstone666

Hi!
maybe someone can answer questions:

1) QNIX QHD2710R DP MULTI
this monitor have true 10bit or virtual?
if true - how to turn it on? In nvidia panel i see only 8bit.

(gtx1070 + dp)

2) which Color Calibration Profile choose for this model?
I tried a few - the color is not very good. especially scary red - very acidic.

P.S. Sorry for my english, i use google translate.


----------



## dante`afk

anyone else not able to save custom resolution with the newest nvidia driers?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> anyone else not able to save custom resolution with the newest nvidia driers?


No issues here... I have had it lock me out of custom resolutions when I had DSR resolutions selected/enabled in the control panel. Open the control panel, click on Manage 3D Settings, select Global Settings Tab, uncheck any DSR resolutions. Click APPLY... Now try to set the custom resolution.


----------



## bobcatchris

Will a DP active adapter allow me to use one of these monitors at 1440p at 120hz? I have 2(1 for my personal and 1 for the wife's computer) of these and I'm considering getting a RX 480 that's on sale but it only has 3 DP ports and 1 HDMI.

https://www.visiontek.com/graphics-cards/radeon-rx480-polaris-edition-8gb-gddr5-detail.html#supported-outputs


----------



## Levelog

RIP my Qnix. Guess 2 cross country moves in less than a year was too much, doesn't power on anymore. Hello new Pixio 1440p IPS 144hz Freesync. Exact same casing and stand as my Qnix so I feel at home.


----------



## mytho-x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levelog*
> 
> RIP my Qnix. Guess 2 cross country moves in less than a year was too much, doesn't power on anymore. Hello new Pixio 1440p IPS 144hz Freesync. Exact same casing and stand as my Qnix so I feel at home.


Do you have any experience with the Pixio? On Nvidia what refresh rate can people hit (without frame skipping)? I've not seen any overclock results and nearly all reviews are based on Freesync and AMD cards.


----------



## m3rlino

Hi everybody!Can someone elaborate about why should i install an unsigned driver before creating a custom resolution in NvCP to oc my qnix? Can i just create a custom resolution without installing the unsigned driver?? thanks for explaining.
p.s i run a single nvidia card (gtx 660).
Thanks everybody


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3rlino*
> 
> Hi everybody!Can someone elaborate about why should i install an unsigned driver before creating a custom resolution in NvCP to oc my qnix? Can i just create a custom resolution without installing the unsigned driver?? thanks for explaining.
> p.s i run a single nvidia card (gtx 660).
> Thanks everybody


Yes you can.


----------



## m3rlino

thanks for the reply. Anyway i forgot to write that i'm on Windows 10. From what i have read if I just change the hz with NvCP it will force the overclock on desktop only..some app will still force 60hz refresh. Do i need that drivers to force new refresh rate on every app on the computer? thanks


----------



## Deadstone666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadstone666*
> 
> Hi!
> maybe someone can answer questions:
> 
> 1) QNIX QHD2710R DP MULTI
> this monitor have true 10bit or virtual?
> if true - how to turn it on? In nvidia panel i see only 8bit.
> 
> (gtx1070 + dp)
> 
> 2) which Color Calibration Profile choose for this model?
> I tried a few - the color is not very good. especially scary red - very acidic.
> 
> P.S. Sorry for my english, i use google translate.


Pls! Сan someone answer this questions?


----------



## klika

Just got X-Star DP2710 ...... the problem is I am not able to access brightness/contrast menu as well as volume control.

Not sure what`s going on.

Thanks

EDIT: I noticed that there is no contrast and sharpness button or any menu just brightness/volume control. How the heck am I gonna fix sharpness, no setting for it in NVIDIA settings (GTX 750 Ti).


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klika*
> 
> Just got X-Star DP2710 ...... the problem is I am not able to access brightness/contrast menu as well as volume control.
> 
> Not sure what`s going on.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> EDIT: I noticed that there is no contrast and sharpness button or any menu just brightness/volume control. How the heck am I gonna fix sharpness, no setting for it in NVIDIA settings (GTX 750 Ti).


Did you even research what you were buying before you bought it? Only the brightness and power buttons do anything. Not sure why you need to adjust sharpness, the panel is already correctly calibrated for sharpness.


----------



## klika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Not sure why you need to adjust sharpness, the panel is already correctly calibrated for sharpness.


Not so sure about correctly calibrated sharpness ........... my 6-7 year old 24" Dell Ultrasharp (1900x1200, 60Hz) is still way sharper than new X-Star with higher resolution on 96Hz. After 15-20 minutes of looking at the monitor my head is about to blow up, so much strain on the eyes.

When i get a chance I`ll post some photos ............


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klika*
> 
> Not so sure about correctly calibrated sharpness ........... my 6-7 year old 24" Dell Ultrasharp (1900x1200, 60Hz) is still way sharper than new X-Star with higher resolution on 96Hz. After 15-20 minutes of looking at the monitor my head is about to blow up, so much strain on the eyes.
> 
> When i get a chance I`ll post some photos ............


Probably the PWM backlighting causing you to have eye strain and soon headaches. If you buy a Korean monitor, get the Crossover 2795. The QNIX and X-Star aren't the best choices anymore. The Crossover has a better panel and no PWM backlighting, better response times, brighter screen, no issues with sharpness, a light matte coating, etc. If you can return it, do so, and get the Crossover.


----------



## valetudo025

hi gents,
anyway to tell between the more desirable older panels and the newer panels? not sure what panel I have. thanks.


----------



## klika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Probably the PWM backlighting causing you to have eye strain and soon headaches. If you buy a Korean monitor, get the Crossover 2795. The QNIX and X-Star aren't the best choices anymore. The Crossover has a better panel and no PWM backlighting, better response times, brighter screen, no issues with sharpness, a light matte coating, etc. If you can return it, do so, and get the Crossover.


Crossover was my initial option but it is almost as twice as expensive.
I was expecting much more from X-Star , quite disappointing ...........


----------



## Zero4549

Just switched from Nvidia to AMD. Can anyone tell me the best way to get my sexy 96Hz back with these new drivers? There is a lot of conflicting information and the OP hasn't been updated in quite a while.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valetudo025*
> 
> hi gents,
> anyway to tell between the more desirable older panels and the newer panels? not sure what panel I have. thanks.


You have to pop open the bezel and look on the corner of the panel for the sticker with the model number of the panel.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Just switched from Nvidia to AMD. Can anyone tell me the best way to get my sexy 96Hz back with these new drivers? There is a lot of conflicting information and the OP hasn't been updated in quite a while.


I think you have to use CRU...




"Additional settings" moved to the preferences menu in the newest update.﻿


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> I think you have to use CRU...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Additional settings" moved to the preferences menu in the newest update.﻿


Tried that but it only allows up to 81hz. I was able to run 130 on nvidia. :/


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Tried that but it only allows up to 81hz. I was able to run 130 on nvidia. :/


Overclock is dependent on both GPU and monitor.

Try a few different cables. I got better overclocks with any cable other than the one which came with my monitor. I found the Coboc one I ended up with for $10 on Newegg to give me the best overclocks. I can run 110Hz but I use 96Hz as it's a multiple of 24 so no weird stuttering if I watch movies.


----------



## valetudo025

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> You have to pop open the bezel and look on the corner of the panel for the sticker with the model number of the panel.


Lol, I guess I'll never know then


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valetudo025*
> 
> Lol, I guess I'll never know then


It's easy.. but no reason to bother unless you need to.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Overclock is dependent on both GPU and monitor.
> 
> Try a few different cables. I got better overclocks with any cable other than the one which came with my monitor. I found the Coboc one I ended up with for $10 on Newegg to give me the best overclocks. I can run 110Hz but I use 96Hz as it's a multiple of 24 so no weird stuttering if I watch movies.


I'm using the same cable and same monitor as before. The only thing that changed is the GPU, which had been upgraded from a GTX 680 to a RX 480.

I don't see why I would be able to run 130hz on the GTX680 but only 81 on the RX480, everything else being the same, unless the 480 is just not capable.

I also don't see why the 480 wouldn't be capable, considering people run 144hz monitors on these cards fairly regularly.

Therefore I can only assume the issue to be a bug or "feature" within the AMD drivers. Hopefully someone smarter or more dedicated than myself has found a workaround and can share it.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I'm using the same cable and same monitor as before. The only thing that changed is the GPU, which had been upgraded from a GTX 680 to a RX 480.
> 
> I don't see why I would be able to run 130hz on the GTX680 but only 81 on the RX480, everything else being the same, unless the 480 is just not capable.
> 
> I also don't see why the 480 wouldn't be capable, considering people run 144hz monitors on these cards fairly regularly.
> 
> Therefore I can only assume the issue to be a bug or "feature" within the AMD drivers. Hopefully someone smarter or more dedicated than myself has found a workaround and can share it.


You're choosing not to understand I guess since it's the answer you didn't want to hear. It's your GPU, it can absolutely affect the OC of your monitor. You can try messing with timings etc with CRU but that may have limited mileage. Get on YouTube and look up some suggestions for messing with timings in CRU.


----------



## DjZorlag

*By any chance, are there anywhere spare PCBs for the QNIX qx2710 monitor?* Doesn't matter which revision the PCB is as the cables have already been modified to fit both. I'm not really interested in paying over 100$ as the screen itself isn't worth much more and I can't be 100% sure that the fault is in the PCB to start with.

I have already changed the PCB once and the screen worked fine overclocked @ +100Hz for over a year. I got the PCB with just 2x postage fees after contacting half a dozen different Ebay -sellers and sending the faulty PCB to china. Unfortunately I think that doesn't work anymore. The later brokedown was maybe due to my own fault. I used Earthwatts 500w to power it and fiddled with the PSU at the same time it was connected to the screen.









Such a shame because it was a perfect screen with 2k resolution, +100Hz refresh rate with IPS quality, 27" size and macgyvered to have no light leakage and, on top of that, had no dead pixels. I'd like to give it one more chance before paying a hefty sum of an equivalent screen.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I'm using the same cable and same monitor as before. The only thing that changed is the GPU, which had been upgraded from a GTX 680 to a RX 480.
> 
> I don't see why I would be able to run 130hz on the GTX680 but only 81 on the RX480, everything else being the same, unless the 480 is just not capable.
> 
> I also don't see why the 480 wouldn't be capable, considering people run 144hz monitors on these cards fairly regularly.
> 
> Therefore I can only assume the issue to be a bug or "feature" within the AMD drivers. Hopefully someone smarter or more dedicated than myself has found a workaround and can share it.


1.patch driver with application found in first post.

2. Use cru application in first post to add custom resolution or install qnix driver in first post.

3.profit after a couple of reboots

The process is still the same as outlined in the first post. Do NOT use the AMD built in resolution utility, it doesn't work for us.

Oh... Forgot to mention, use windows built in display menu to change refresh rates.


----------



## valetudo025

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I'm using the same cable and same monitor as before. The only thing that changed is the GPU, which had been upgraded from a GTX 680 to a RX 480.
> 
> I don't see why I would be able to run 130hz on the GTX680 but only 81 on the RX480, everything else being the same, unless the 480 is just not capable.
> 
> I also don't see why the 480 wouldn't be capable, considering people run 144hz monitors on these cards fairly regularly.
> 
> Therefore I can only assume the issue to be a bug or "feature" within the AMD drivers. Hopefully someone smarter or more dedicated than myself has found a workaround and can share it.


For sure it's not the drivers. I just OC mine last night at 96hz, I have a 290x.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> 1.patch driver with application found in first post.
> 
> 2. Use cru application in first post to add custom resolution or install qnix driver in first post.
> 
> 3.profit after a couple of reboots
> 
> The process is still the same as outlined in the first post. Do NOT use the AMD built in resolution utility, it doesn't work for us.
> 
> Oh... Forgot to mention, use windows built in display menu to change refresh rates.


Ok thanks, I'll give CRU and the patch a shot later tonight or tomorrow. I've already had the qnix (well... X-Star) .inf driver installed before switching cards, as the Generic PnP monitor label and incorrect default settings within some games were rather irritating, but I never had to bother with the other stuff on either of my Nvidia cards.

All the latest articles, forum posts, videos and guides all suggested avoiding those older methods and using the new built in utility in the driver, and frankly that seemed more convenient so I went with it. Could certainly explain my lack of success.

Does this method still break HDCP? If yes, will it break it at all resolutions/refresh rates or only the new custom ones? Any known work around? I do use this machine for Netflix so that would be bothersome, but I'd live with it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valetudo025*
> 
> For sure it's not the drivers. I just OC mine last night at 96hz, I have a 290x.


Which method did you use?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> So what you are telling me is a GPU that is capable of running VR HMDs (2160x1200 90 Hz) and 165 Hz 1440p FreeSync monitors is somehow incapable of driving a known capable panel with a known capable cable at 82-130 Hz?
> 
> I'd like to see the mental gymnastics required to arrive at that conclusion.


Man you're a jerk.

I can show you the different overclocks available to me on my QNIX 2795 using three different graphics cards if you really need to know "the mental gymnastics required to arrive at that conclusion."

Last time I'll try to help you out.


----------



## valetudo025

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> So what you are telling me is a GPU that is capable of running VR HMDs (2160x1200 90 Hz) and 165 Hz 1440p FreeSync monitors is somehow incapable of driving a known capable panel with a known capable cable at 82-130 Hz?
> 
> I'd like to see the mental gymnastics required to arrive at that conclusion.
> Ok thanks, I'll give CRU and the patch a shot later tonight or tomorrow. I've already had the qnix (well... X-Star) .inf driver installed before switching cards, as the Generic PnP monitor label and incorrect default settings within some games were rather irritating, but I never had to bother with the other stuff on either of my Nvidia cards.
> 
> All the latest articles, forum posts, videos and guides all suggested avoiding those older methods and using the new built in utility in the driver, and frankly that seemed more convenient so I went with it. Could certainly explain my lack of success.
> 
> Does this method still break HDCP? If yes, will it break it at all resolutions/refresh rates or only the new custom ones? Any known work around? I do use this machine for Netflix so that would be bothersome, but I'd live with it.
> Which method did you use?


It's probably something simple that you missed. I basically just followed the directions as the other poster described. I don't want to admit it, but it took me over an hour to do also. I simply over looked a detail while OCing. Plus Google chrome for some reason keeps showing up as my Hz being 60hz as per the website utility. I had a feeling it was the chrome browser and sure enough, I installed Firefox and it instantly showed 96hz on the utility website. Plus I also noticed no screen tearing in doom when my fps reached beyond 60fps. Before my OC, I had a lot of screen tearing.
I assume you know what you're doing with OCing since you did it before and you probably know more than I. The only tips I can give you I think is Reread the instructions on page 1 of this thread, reinstall the monitor driver, use the CRU program and start from scratch again, and if using Windows 10 make sure you right click the desktop and get to you're advanced monitor settings and toggle on to the new Hz you set. Reboot the PC and go back to monitor settings and see if it still set on the new settings. In theory the AMD cards are supposed to be easier per the instructions.

As a side note, wow this thread escalated quickly, lol.


----------



## valetudo025

Oops, just saw you got it to work. Awesome, as I thought it was probably something simple you missed.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valetudo025*
> 
> It's probably something simple that you missed. I basically just followed the directions as the other poster described. I don't want to admit it, but it took me over an hour to do also. I simply over looked a detail while OCing. Plus Google chrome for some reason keeps showing up as my Hz being 60hz as per the website utility. I had a feeling it was the chrome browser and sure enough, I installed Firefox and it instantly showed 96hz on the utility website. Plus I also noticed no screen tearing in doom when my fps reached beyond 60fps. Before my OC, I had a lot of screen tearing.
> I assume you know what you're doing with OCing since you did it before and you probably know more than I. The only tips I can give you I think is Reread the instructions on page 1 of this thread, reinstall the monitor driver, use the CRU program and start from scratch again, and if using Windows 10 make sure you right click the desktop and get to you're advanced monitor settings and toggle on to the new Hz you set. Reboot the PC and go back to monitor settings and see if it still set on the new settings. In theory the AMD cards are supposed to be easier per the instructions.
> 
> As a side note, wow this thread escalated quickly, lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valetudo025*
> 
> Oops, just saw you got it to work. Awesome, as I thought it was probably something simple you missed.


Yep all good now. Cheers!

For the record, it was easier on my Nvidia cards (680 Lightning and 560Ti DCUII), as the only thing I had to do was set it to a higher refresh rate in the control panel and it just worked right away. No need for pixel patching or CRU. I did install the INF either way, just to get rid of that ugly "generic PnP monitor" name though. lol

The AMD method isn't hard by any means though. I just didn't think I'd have to bother with the recent introduction of custom resolutions within the AMD drivers and the easy successes I had on Nvidia cards despite at the time being told that I had to mess with reduced timings and pixel patching.

Interestingly, I didn't have to restart my system at all. I did however force a restart on my display driver so that is probably why.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Yeah, I in fact am, but that is irrelevant. The fact that you attack my character when you cannot attack my argument however is rather telling.
> Yes, please show me your monitor overclock results using the same monitor and cable on various modern mid and high end GPUs. I suspect they will all be virtually identical, given that they are all designed to drive modern panels that range as high at 8K resolution and 165Hz refresh rate, and we are talking about overclocking 1440p 60hz panels, that even when overclocked to an extreme 130hz are still well below the specs these cards are designed to handle.
> 
> While you're at it, show me that non-existent QNIX 2795 you own. I can only assume you actually mean Crossover 2795.
> 
> If you're going to try and show me a GT 510 failing to overclock well as evidence that a RX 480 is also incapable, I'll remind you that a GT 510 also can't run DX12, or even achieve better framerates than an Intel IGP. You might as well say a Bugatti Veyron can't reach highway speeds because your kid's Fisher-Price Power Wheels tops out at 2MPH.
> I'll live. Smarter and more helpful people than yourself exist, and should they fail, I'll find a way to trudge through my woeful existence with my monitor refreshing at a lowly 81Hz.
> Worked great. Now running at 96Hz again. Thanks buddy!


Yeah I meant the Crossover.. but there you go being a jerk again to someone who tried to help you. Just because a GPU can run 145Hz on a panel MEANT to do so does not mean that it will overclock a monitor just as well as the next when we're talking about a panel that wasn't designed to run over 60Hz. You know that the cable can have a great deal of impact on the possible overclocks of these panels yet you refuse to agree that the GPU could possibly have any impact?

I'm not going out of my way to provide you with screenshots and pictures, you're nothing but a arrogant kid. If you're not, you act like one.


----------



## Levelog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mytho-x*
> 
> Do you have any experience with the Pixio? On Nvidia what refresh rate can people hit (without frame skipping)? I've not seen any overclock results and nearly all reviews are based on Freesync and AMD cards.


The Pixio is natively 144hz, no over clocking necessary. Only messing around you have to do is use CRU to manually set refresh rate to 55hz-144hz for freesync to work properly.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Yeah I meant the Crossover.. but there you go being a jerk again to someone who tried to help you.


Again, I wholeheartedly embrace the fact that I am a jerk, but that is still completely irrelevant to this discussion. You brought bogus data to the table and were slapped down. Now you are sad and mad and are lashing out with ad hominems among other logical fallacies because you have no actual rebuttals and are too stubborn to swallow your pride.

Those who actually "tried to help" me did exactly that, and have indeed been thanked as is appropriate. Your misinformation and angry fits are in turn getting their justified cold hard factual rejections.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Just because a GPU can run 145Hz on a panel MEANT to do so does not mean that it will overclock a monitor just as well as the next when we're talking about a panel that wasn't designed to run over 60Hz.


I never represented that a GPU could overclock any old panel as well as one that is known to overclock, or that is designed to run at high stock clocks. Take your strawman arguments elsewhere.

What I have claimed, and which is irrefutably true, is that a GPU capable of driving a 1440p 96hz signal is capable of doing so regardless of what is receiving that signal. As long as the GPU _thinks_ the monitor can receive the signal, and the signal is within the card's capabilities, it couldn't actually care less what that monitor is. This is the entire premise under which monitor overclocking is done.

Typically the monitor would tell your GPU "I am a 60hz 1440p monitor" and the GPU will see that and refuse to display anything greater than 1440P 60Hz. With unofficial drivers (inf files), custom resolution utilities (CRU), registry edits (pixelclock patcher), etc we are tricking the GPU into thinking we have a "made for 120hz" monitor instead of a "made of 60hz" monitor. Since the GPU thinks it is talking to a 120hz monitor, it happily sends the 120hz signal without a care in the world. The same exact signal that it would send to a "real" 120 hz monitor.

Therefore, if a GPU can drive a "real" 165Hz, or 144Hz, or even 120Hz monitor, which literally every single non-legacy and even many legacy cards are indeed capable of, then it can inherently drive an overclocked 60hz panel to the same frequencies. The _monitor_ might not actually function correctly at that point, but that is out of the GPU's hands. There is no magic voodoo here that can cause a GPU to have to work harder because you are running 1440P 120Hz on a Qnix instead of 1440P 120Hz on an Acer Predator. Belief in such nonsense is akin to believing DDR4 2800MHz will no longer physically slot into your motherboard if you overclock it to 3200MHz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> You know that the cable can have a great deal of impact on the possible overclocks of these panels yet you refuse to agree that the GPU could possibly have any impact?


Again, take your strawman elsewhere, I'm not falling for your logical fallacies. I never claimed that a cable cannot impact one's overclock. In fact I had to replace a cable for my GF's X-Star to allow her to overclock. That however is irrelevant, as I already told you that I am using the same monitor and same cable on this GPU as I did with my three GPUs before it, all of which were able to overclock to 96 or higher, thus proving that THIS cable is perfectly fine.

As for GPUs effecting overclock potential, that has been totally irrelevant for every card released after 2011 or so, excluding rebadged older cards. There is absolutely no reason a 2016 GPU wouldn't be able overclock a capable 1440p panel to 96hz. Claiming otherwise is nonsense and you know it.


----------



## mytho-x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Levelog*
> 
> The Pixio is natively 144hz, no over clocking necessary. Only messing around you have to do is use CRU to manually set refresh rate to 55hz-144hz for freesync to work properly.


Nice... I see it's on sale now at Newegg. Tempting. Is this a 6 bit + 2 or a true 8 bit panel?


----------



## BitsandBytez

Can finally join the 1440p club after years of 1080p

Was gifted one of the original QX2710LED - got it running happily at 110Hz, massive difference to 1080/60, although might have to beef up my GPU solution

Everything is tiny lol


----------



## rnaodm

Evenin!

Is the QNIX EVO II 2560x1440p still a good buy?

I can pick one up locally for $180 its stand has been replaced with a fully adjustable one.

I dont know if it has any stuck/dead pixels, I've asked and am awaiting a reply.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rnaodm*
> 
> Evenin!
> 
> Is the QNIX EVO II 2560x1440p still a good buy?
> 
> I can pick one up locally for $180 its stand has been replaced with a fully adjustable one.
> 
> I dont know if it has any stuck/dead pixels, I've asked and am awaiting a reply.


Ask the seller how long have they had the Qnix for. Have they tried to overclock, if so, how high were they able to go? Matte or gloss panel?

$180 isn't too bad.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kouki monster*
> 
> Is anyone having issues with their monitor recently with AMD cards? I keep getting 'black' screens and random crashes and im not sure if the monitor overclock is causing it or just the drivers causes crashes on my old card (HD 7950)


I have had similiar problems with my 390 and QNIX. I will post more when I'm home


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rnaodm*
> 
> Evenin!
> 
> Is the QNIX EVO II 2560x1440p still a good buy?
> 
> I can pick one up locally for $180 its stand has been replaced with a fully adjustable one.
> 
> I dont know if it has any stuck/dead pixels, I've asked and am awaiting a reply.


That is a fair price BUT in addition to what ovrclck said, it has to be near perfect with pixels/BLB faults. AND I would test if it has PWM problems or not. Most of the later models suffer from it ... If it's an early "single-input" L02 glossy with no PWM and clocks to 100Hz+ YOU STRUCK GOLD!

Otherwise also use this as a bargaining chip ... New Perfect Pixel ones are going for ... $179 ... *HERE*


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> That is a fair price BUT in addition to what ovrclck said, it has to be near perfect with pixels/BLB faults. AND I would test if it has PWM problems or not. Most of the later models suffer from it ... If it's an early "single-input" L02 glossy with no PWM and clocks to 100Hz+ YOU STRUCK GOLD!
> 
> Otherwise also use this as a bargaining chip ... New Perfect Pixel ones are going for ... $179 ... *HERE*


I really want a second QNIX aswell but Im afraid it's impossible to get another real glossy like mine without any issues either. Or so they actually sell real glossy monitors now instead of that tempered glass fake glossy? I just happened to find a real glossy panel under the tempered glass on my monitor 3 years ago.


----------



## Clouded Sun

Hi!
I just purchased my new X-Star DP2710, but when setting it up and plugging in everything to my monitor, at first I got a screen flashing white, blue, green and red, and now just the blinking red light. I'm plugging it in to my motherboard through Intel HD Graphics. I also switched the 2-prong for a 3-prong American wall adapter. Any solutions?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clouded Sun*
> 
> Hi!
> I just purchased my new X-Star DP2710, but when setting it up and plugging in everything to my monitor, at first I got a screen flashing white, blue, green and red, and now just the blinking red light. I'm plugging it in to my motherboard through Intel HD Graphics. Any solutions?


You need a GPU that supports dual link DVI... The intel integrated won't work. It also won't work on apple devices, consoles, etc.

Any modern GPU should do, just make sure it has dual link DVI.


----------



## asilverdragon

So I brought a Qnix 2710 2 years ago, I over clocked it to 96Hz and after I got a new 144Hz monitor, I defaulted it to 60 Hz and just used it as a second monitor. Iit was working fine until last week when it started cycling through colors (black/white/red/green/blue). I have brought a new dual dvi cable and that doesn't fix it. I brought an active dual dvi to display port to see if it's my gpu, and it still does the same thing.

My Nvidia control panel sees the Qnix has a digital display with a resolution of 1024 x 768 (native) or 800 x 600. There is no other resolution to change to. It doesn't work even if I create a custom resolution at 1440p.

Windows 10, GTX980.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asilverdragon*
> 
> So I brought a Qnix 2710 2 years ago, I over clocked it to 96Hz and after I got a new 144Hz monitor, I defaulted it to 60 Hz and just used it as a second monitor. Iit was working fine until last week when it started cycling through colors (black/white/red/green/blue). I have brought a new dual dvi cable and that doesn't fix it. I brought an active dual dvi to display port to see if it's my gpu, and it still does the same thing.
> 
> My Nvidia control panel sees the Qnix has a digital display with a resolution of 1024 x 768 (native) or 800 x 600. There is no other resolution to change to. It doesn't work even if I create a custom resolution at 1440p.
> 
> Windows 10, GTX980.


It probably died, unfortunately... The panel is likely fine but the circuit board probably needs to be replaced. You can't really find the circuit boards, at least not for a reasonable price compared to replacing it. I would try it on a friend's PC if possible just to be sure though.


----------



## Clouded Sun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> You need a GPU that supports dual link DVI... The intel integrated won't work. It also won't work on apple devices, consoles, etc.
> 
> Any modern GPU should do, just make sure it has dual link DVI.


*Facepalm*
Alright, thank you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*


I have another question.

Is it with this monitor specifically that I need a dedicated GPU? And can I use a cheap, older card while I wait for my new GPU on the monitor?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clouded Sun*
> 
> *Facepalm*
> Alright, thank you.
> I have another question.
> 
> Is it with this monitor specifically that I need a dedicated GPU? And can I use a cheap, older card while I wait for my new GPU on the monitor?


Yeah these monitors don't have the internal circuitry to work with anything other than a dual link DVI port... Most consumer monitors have built-in circuitry which allow them to work with HDMI, DVI, VGA, DP etc in order to ensure compatibility with most systems. These monitors omitted all of that in favor of keeping prices as low as possible. You could just use a different monitor, or you could buy a used GPU for around $50 with dual link DVI. What are you looking to spend on a GPU and what types of games are you looking to play?

You can use something as old as an Nvidia 9500GT or AMD HD5450 so if you look on Ebay you can get going in Windows and web browsing without breaking the bank. If you want something for gaming, let us know what you're able to spend and we'll go from there.


----------



## josephytakagi

Is the original Qnix Qx2710 glossy still a competitive model? I bought it a couple years ago, & have been very happy with it. I cleared up most of the BLB by taking it apart, & it's able to hit ~90hz+, the CRU program is great too. I have a GTX 970, considering a 1070 in a year or so, or waiting for the gen after. Honestly I have no valid complaints about anything, just wondering how tech has evolved since then. It feels like we're about ~2 years away from quality mid-priced 4k gaming from what I read. My needs aren't extreme, I don't think I can really tell a difference after 60FPS. I've seen some G-Sync/V-Sync comparisons on youtube, & it wasn't a compelling feature to me from what I saw. Maybe I should wait til gen after this & upgrade to 4k (CPU is a 4770k). Thanks for taking the time!


----------



## hokey

this thread is rather congested for asking questions


----------



## zeeee4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josephytakagi*
> 
> Is the original Qnix Qx2710 glossy still a competitive model? I bought it a couple years ago, & have been very happy with it. I cleared up most of the BLB by taking it apart, & it's able to hit ~90hz+, the CRU program is great too. I have a GTX 970, considering a 1070 in a year or so, or waiting for the gen after. Honestly I have no valid complaints about anything, just wondering how tech has evolved since then. It feels like we're about ~2 years away from quality mid-priced 4k gaming from what I read. My needs aren't extreme, I don't think I can really tell a difference after 60FPS. I've seen some G-Sync/V-Sync comparisons on youtube, & it wasn't a compelling feature to me from what I saw. Maybe I should wait til gen after this & upgrade to 4k (CPU is a 4770k). Thanks for taking the time!


There is no way you can't tell the difference between 60 and 100fps. That's just either you're ignorant and didn't properly set up 100hz on the monitor or you have no experience with it. Just the mouse movement on the desktop changes worlds.


----------



## damnwebsite

Is it still good getting one of these?

I've been searching around the forum for opinions but there seem to be qc issues or something.

I'm donating one of my dell u2414h's to my sister so im probably gonna grab a 27" 1440p monitor so i can play around because it's cheap and i can do a bunch of stuff on one monitor without having to turn my head to look at my other screen.

Can this monitor hit reliably 96hz or even 120hz?

Is there anything i should know about?

Do i have to go for a pixel perfect one? I'm trying to get one on the cheap but i don't want an offgrade one.


----------



## giltyler

Mine has been good for over 2 years now and was the pixel perfect Qnix with DVI input only and matte screen
Mine would go to 118 Hz but I keep it at 85 and really can not tell any difference at all
Backlight bleed is something to consider since many of these monitors have it to some degree but for the money I paid
I could not complain

Storewithstory is the seller on fleabay I used

1440 from the more common brands has come down in price recently so you have options

Good Luck with your purchase


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobCrezz*
> 
> Managed to get my qnix to work with my alienware 15 r2 laptop using this startech displayport (usb-c) to DVI adapter. Works great in both windows (using intel graphics) and games (using nvidia graphics).
> 
> However, I cannot get the refresh rate to go higher in the intel utility, when i try and raise the hz it just says "insufficent bandwidth". any ideas?


Can you tell me which model you have? I found this one, which looks like it should work as it has dual-link DVI-D


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokey*
> 
> this thread is rather congested for asking questions


Did you ask a question?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeeee4*
> 
> There is no way you can't tell the difference between 60 and 100fps. That's just either you're ignorant and didn't properly set up 100hz on the monitor or you have no experience with it. Just the mouse movement on the desktop changes worlds.


A little rude there slim. Some people can't tell the difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damnwebsite*
> 
> Is it still good getting one of these?
> 
> I've been searching around the forum for opinions but there seem to be qc issues or something.
> 
> I'm donating one of my dell u2414h's to my sister so im probably gonna grab a 27" 1440p monitor so i can play around because it's cheap and i can do a bunch of stuff on one monitor without having to turn my head to look at my other screen.
> 
> Can this monitor hit reliably 96hz or even 120hz?
> 
> Is there anything i should know about?
> 
> Do i have to go for a pixel perfect one? I'm trying to get one on the cheap but i don't want an offgrade one.


The single input (dvi) is still the one to get but from posted comments qc has come down a little bit. Compare it to similar screens without counting on overclocking and see if it's worth it to you. You can get them for about 200 now and I believe the next cheapest monitors from Asus etc are still 300+.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom114*
> 
> Can you tell me which model you have? I found this one, which looks like it should work as it has dual-link DVI-D


If your looking to overclock using an adapter it's not going to happen. Many have tried. If it's just to run it at 60hz you should be good with some sort of active adapter.


----------



## Tom114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> If your looking to overclock using an adapter it's not going to happen. Many have tried. If it's just to run it at 60hz you should be good with some sort of active adapter.


Who says I'm looking to overclock


----------



## damnwebsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> The single input (dvi) is still the one to get but from posted comments qc has come down a little bit. Compare it to similar screens without counting on overclocking and see if it's worth it to you. You can get them for about 200 now and I believe the next cheapest monitors from Asus etc are still 300+.


I thought they were all dual link dvi's?

Any monitor at 1440p capable of higher refresh rates are at the lowest 2x more expensive (some aoc 27" 1440p 144hz) and most are 3x more expensive (ie rog swift)

i was looking at something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?hash=item1e7c39ae25:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/121362611435?hash=item1c41c67ceb:g:2UoAAOxyUylTPTVd
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DP-multi-TRUE10-TRUE-10-Matte-27-2560x1440-Monitor-/131131920531?hash=item1e88125093:g:4cEAAOxyni9TFuZd

whats the difference? i see the last one has dp... but im guessing you just told me to get the one with dvi

the pixel perfect version is REALLY close to my customs limit so i might stay away from that unless the nz dollar gets strong


----------



## kenshinsars

I have a QNIX QX2710, it have been running it @95Hz refresh, it was ovverclockable to 120Hz.. I noticed about 2 Nvidia driver releases ago(I have a GTX 970) the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe no longer works(error: failed to locate driver file) and ever since then, if I run my QNIX at anything other than 60hz, the screen will eventually go blank as if the video signal is being dropped, I just turn the monitor off and on again, and its fine, but will then eventually do it again. Is this a sign my monitors board is failing, or is this a driver/patcher issue ?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> I have a QNIX QX2710, it have been running it @95Hz refresh, it was ovverclockable to 120Hz.. I noticed about 2 Nvidia driver releases ago(I have a GTX 970) the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe no longer works(error: failed to locate driver file) and ever since then, if I run my QNIX at anything other than 60hz, the screen will eventually go blank as if the video signal is being dropped, I just turn the monitor off and on again, and its fine, but will then eventually do it again. Is this a sign my monitors board is failing, or is this a driver/patcher issue ?


Uninstall the patcher completely and do a "clean install" of the latest Nvidia drivers. You can add a custom resolution in the Nvidia drivers, and input any refresh rate you want... No need for the patcher. This is almost definitely a driver issue that you're having, as a result of using an outdated method to change your refresh rate.

Use 96Hz, not 95Hz as 96 is a multiple of 24 so movies at 24FPS will play back smoothly.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> I have a QNIX QX2710, it have been running it @95Hz refresh, it was ovverclockable to 120Hz.. I noticed about 2 Nvidia driver releases ago(I have a GTX 970) the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe no longer works(error: failed to locate driver file) and ever since then, if I run my QNIX at anything other than 60hz, the screen will eventually go blank as if the video signal is being dropped, I just turn the monitor off and on again, and its fine, but will then eventually do it again. Is this a sign my monitors board is failing, or is this a driver/patcher issue ?


Uninstall the patcher completely and do a "clean install" of the latest Nvidia drivers. You can add a custom resolution in the Nvidia drivers, and input any refresh rate you want... No need for the patcher. This is almost definitely a driver issue that you're having, as a result of using an outdated method to change your refresh rate.

Use 96Hz, not 95Hz as 96 is a multiple of 24 so movies at 24FPS will play back smoothly.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Uninstall the patcher completely and do a "clean install" of the latest Nvidia drivers. You can add a custom resolution in the Nvidia drivers, and input any refresh rate you want... No need for the patcher. This is almost definitely a driver issue that you're having, as a result of using an outdated method to change your refresh rate.
> 
> Use 96Hz, not 95Hz as 96 is a multiple of 24 so movies at 24FPS will play back smoothly.


Why would the refresh rate affect movie playback in any way? Looks fine on my 100Hz.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Why would the refresh rate affect movie playback in any way? Looks fine on my 100Hz.


Blu-Ray movies and anyone who knows how to properly encode a video will do so at 24FPS. If you were to watch at 24Hz you'd have no frame doubling or skipping, which would provide a smooth playback free from jitter. If you watched at 48Hz then each frame gets doubled but none are skipped or "thrown out" so you still get smooth playback. Double it again to 96Hz and now each frame is shown four times but still none are skipped or dropped. Now set it to something like 100Hz and you're throwing a wrench in the whole idea of smooth playback because there's a difference in time that each frame of the movie is being displayed for, it's no longer even and smooth.. Sure, it will "look fine" at 100Hz but anyone with the ability to pick up on the judder will surely see that the playback is not smooth and it will likely drive them up the wall like it does me. Grandma won't care but your A/V enthusiast buddy will. To each his own, but that's why people push for multiples of 24Hz when overclocking their monitors.

Here's a link that might explain a bit better than I can.
http://www.avhelpzone.com/video/refresh_rate.htm
https://www.lifewire.com/video-frame-vs-screen-refresh-rate-1847855


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Blu-Ray movies and anyone who knows how to properly encode a video will do so at 24FPS. If you were to watch at 24Hz you'd have no frame doubling or skipping, which would provide a smooth playback free from jitter. If you watched at 48Hz then each frame gets doubled but none are skipped or "thrown out" so you still get smooth playback. Double it again to 96Hz and now each frame is shown four times but still none are skipped or dropped. Now set it to something like 100Hz and you're throwing a wrench in the whole idea of smooth playback because there's a difference in time that each frame of the movie is being displayed for, it's no longer even and smooth.. Sure, it will "look fine" at 100Hz but anyone with the ability to pick up on the judder will surely see that the playback is not smooth and it will likely drive them up the wall like it does me. Grandma won't care but your A/V enthusiast buddy will. To each his own, but that's why people push for multiples of 24Hz when overclocking their monitors.
> 
> Here's a link that might explain a bit better than I can.
> http://www.avhelpzone.com/video/refresh_rate.htm
> https://www.lifewire.com/video-frame-vs-screen-refresh-rate-1847855


So where is the proof or some test that shows this? I don't see any.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> So where is the proof or some test that shows this? I don't see any.


Okay man, I didn't realize you were just looking to argue with someone... I was simply spreading good advice to another user and then you came along asking questions so I tried to provide an answer and explanation. You're welcome to ignore the links, you're welcome to ignore hundreds of other sources from Google, you're welcome to ignore hundreds of people in this very thread explaining the same information. I'm not here for petty arguments, good day, and good luck.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Okay man, I didn't realize you were just looking to argue with someone... I was simply spreading good advice to another user and then you came along asking questions so I tried to provide an answer and explanation. You're welcome to ignore the links, you're welcome to ignore hundreds of other sources from Google, you're welcome to ignore hundreds of people in this very thread explaining the same information. I'm not here for petty arguments, good day, and good luck.


It shouldn't be that hard to just link something that shows it that if it's so obvious? Otherwise I call bs on it.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> It shouldn't be that hard to just link something that shows it that if it's so obvious? Otherwise I call bs on it.


Not hard at all. Here's a link explaining it in plain English, complete with videos and tests which can be downloaded and utilized to educate yourself. Enjoy









http://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/motion/24p


----------



## Death2Consoles

Here's a simple video showing judder. The plasma on the right is smooth, the Samsung on the left is using 3:2 or telecine pulldown which results in judder. Pretty simple concept.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> I have a QNIX QX2710, it have been running it @95Hz refresh, it was ovverclockable to 120Hz.. I noticed about 2 Nvidia driver releases ago(I have a GTX 970) the nvlddmkm-patcher.exe no longer works(error: failed to locate driver file) and ever since then, if I run my QNIX at anything other than 60hz, the screen will eventually go blank as if the video signal is being dropped, I just turn the monitor off and on again, and its fine, but will then eventually do it again. Is this a sign my monitors board is failing, or is this a driver/patcher issue ?
> 
> 
> 
> Uninstall the patcher completely and do a "clean install" of the latest Nvidia drivers. You can add a custom resolution in the Nvidia drivers, and input any refresh rate you want... No need for the patcher. This is almost definitely a driver issue that you're having, as a result of using an outdated method to change your refresh rate.
> 
> Use 96Hz, not 95Hz as 96 is a multiple of 24 so movies at 24FPS will play back smoothly.
Click to expand...

+R for a concise accurate answer and then following through when you backed your point quite clearly








And I think I already repped your avatar long time ago


----------



## PlanK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damnwebsite*
> 
> I thought they were all dual link dvi's?
> 
> Any monitor at 1440p capable of higher refresh rates are at the lowest 2x more expensive (some aoc 27" 1440p 144hz) and most are 3x more expensive (ie rog swift)
> 
> i was looking at something like this
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?hash=item1e7c39ae25:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-HDMI-Monitor-/121362611435?hash=item1c41c67ceb:g:2UoAAOxyUylTPTVd
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DP-multi-TRUE10-TRUE-10-Matte-27-2560x1440-Monitor-/131131920531?hash=item1e88125093:g:4cEAAOxyni9TFuZd
> 
> whats the difference? i see the last one has dp... but im guessing you just told me to get the one with dvi
> 
> the pixel perfect version is REALLY close to my customs limit so i might stay away from that unless the nz dollar gets strong


The True 10, if I remember correctly, is multi-input, minimal overclock. Search this thread for details. You want the single input Dual-DVI only. I got one of these 3-4 years ago. You can ask the ebay seller to mark the price lower to get through NZ customs, no guarantee, but it worked for me.


----------



## damnwebsite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PlanK*
> 
> The True 10, if I remember correctly, is multi-input, minimal overclock. Search this thread for details. You want the single input Dual-DVI only. I got one of these 3-4 years ago. You can ask the ebay seller to mark the price lower to get through NZ customs, no guarantee, but it worked for me.


so i should get this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?hash=item1e7c39ae25:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e&rmvSB=true
did you get the pixel perfect one?


----------



## hokey

if anyone has a glossy version of one of these monitors, could you tell me if it's legitimate glossy, or something else?

real glossy = the glass sits over the polarizer.
fake = glass sits over a normal matte screen.

so far ive heard of both versions, but also seems that no one knows for sure?


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokey*
> 
> if anyone has a glossy version of one of these monitors, could you tell me if it's legitimate glossy, or something else?
> 
> real glossy = the glass sits over the polarizer.
> fake = glass sits over a normal matte screen.
> 
> so far ive heard of both versions, but also seems that no one knows for sure?


I ordered a Glossy one 3 years ago that had the tempered glass on it BUT when I removed it also had a real glossy panel underneath aswell!
Apparently it was very rare occurence back then atleast, not sure today.


----------



## hokey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I ordered a Glossy one 3 years ago that had the tempered glass on it BUT when I removed it also had a real glossy panel underneath aswell!
> Apparently it was very rare occurence back then atleast, not sure today.


thx for reply,

glass on top of another piece of glass doesnt make much sense, but then neither does glass on top of matte.

are you sure you werent looking at the polarizer underneath? they are very shiny too.

here's a pic of a monitor where the guy removed the matte anti-glare coating. this is why glossy > matte.



http://imgur.com/fYs7g




http://imgur.com/T3OJb


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokey*
> 
> thx for reply,
> 
> glass on top of another piece of glass doesnt make much sense, but then neither does glass on top of matte.
> 
> are you sure you werent looking at the polarizer underneath? they are very shiny too.
> 
> here's a pic of a monitor where the guy removed the matte anti-glare coating. this is why glossy > matte.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/fYs7g
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/T3OJb


Some old pics I took when I removed the glass.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Some old pics I took when I removed the glass.


Great info! Did those links and videos I posted help you out?


----------



## nathanktm

Hey guys, I started trying to overclock my monitor at around 5am today. It's 10:28 and I cannot seem to overclock beyond 85 hertz without frame skipping. I have a gtx 970 with the most recent drivers. I did the patch. I also did the monitor driver thing. I bought this monitor about a year and 6 months ago, and haven't had the graphics card to run beyond 60 fps until now so i never bothered trying to run beyond 60 hertz. Is there a reason why this is my limit or is that just the limit of what my monitor is capable of? I hear of a lot of people going far beyond that so I just wanted to make 100% sure it wasn't something I was doing....


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Great info! Did those links and videos I posted help you out?


I honestly didn't check yet, herpderp.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanktm*
> 
> Hey guys, I started trying to overclock my monitor at around 5am today. It's 10:28 and I cannot seem to overclock beyond 85 hertz without frame skipping. I have a gtx 970 with the most recent drivers. I did the patch. I also did the monitor driver thing. I bought this monitor about a year and 6 months ago, and haven't had the graphics card to run beyond 60 fps until now so i never bothered trying to run beyond 60 hertz. Is there a reason why this is my limit or is that just the limit of what my monitor is capable of? I hear of a lot of people going far beyond that so I just wanted to make 100% sure it wasn't something I was doing....


Is yours a multi-input QNIX, not single DVI? If so 85 is as good as it gets.


----------



## TheTasty1

Hello all.....having a little bit of bother here and hoping someone may be able to shed some light. I have had my Qnix 2710 overclocked to 96 hertz for some time, maybe a year or more, and recently I had to perform a clean install of my graphics drivers as suggested by Nvidia, as there 'experience' software wasn't functioning as it should. After having done that I went to return my overclock setting on my monitor to the overclocked values but seem unable to do so. When I go into device manager/monitors/generic monitor and then update driver via the browse method, Windows doesn't seem to be able to detect the presence of the 'qnix.inf' file. It says generic PnP monitor in my device manager, and when I go to search it cant find the driver file saying that the best driver is already installed. I had this working perfectly so what am I doing wrong if anything.......
Thanks for reading and any help you might offer is vm appreciated, cheers

EDIT: Its been so long since I did this the first time that I couldn't remember exactly what I did. Just to note that I have now worked out to change the settings in Nvidia control panel anyway. So I changed back to 96hz again and have tested and it works, but I still cant figure out how to install the 'qnix.inf' again to let programs know that a change has been made (or do I even need to?). Eitherway, Windows wont recognise the presence of the file in my selected folder, and my device manager says I am using 'Generic PnP Monitor', when it was definitely saying 'QNIX' before I did the clean install of the graphics drivers.
I was thinking maybe I should just hit the 'rollback drivers' option and then try again, but I was hoping for a little advice before I did that.....any and all would be quality.
Thanks again


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTasty1*
> 
> Hello all.....having a little bit of bother here and hoping someone may be able to shed some light. I have had my Qnix 2710 overclocked to 96 hertz for some time, maybe a year or more, and recently I had to perform a clean install of my graphics drivers as suggested by Nvidia, as there 'experience' software wasn't functioning as it should. After having done that I went to return my overclock setting on my monitor to the overclocked values but seem unable to do so. When I go into device manager/monitors/generic monitor and then update driver via the browse method, Windows doesn't seem to be able to detect the presence of the 'qnix.inf' file. It says generic PnP monitor in my device manager, and when I go to search it cant find the driver file saying that the best driver is already installed. I had this working perfectly so what am I doing wrong if anything.......
> Thanks for reading and any help you might offer is vm appreciated, cheers
> 
> EDIT: Its been so long since I did this the first time that I couldn't remember exactly what I did. Just to note that I have now worked out to change the settings in Nvidia control panel anyway. So I changed back to 96hz again and have tested and it works, but I still cant figure out how to install the 'qnix.inf' again to let programs know that a change has been made (or do I even need to?). Eitherway, Windows wont recognise the presence of the file in my selected folder, and my device manager says I am using 'Generic PnP Monitor', when it was definitely saying 'QNIX' before I did the clean install of the graphics drivers.
> I was thinking maybe I should just hit the 'rollback drivers' option and then try again, but I was hoping for a little advice before I did that.....any and all would be quality.
> Thanks again


Kinda frustrating without your system specs filled in, but I'm guessing your running a version of Win8/10 and you need to disable "driver signing" ... this is what I did when I "reluctantly" build a machine with Win10 ...

Enable Test Signing Mode
Windows includes a "Test Mode" or "Test Signing" Mode feature. Enable this mode and driver signature enforcement will be disabled until you choose to leave Test Mode. You'll see a "Test Mode" watermark appear at the bottom right corner of your desktop near your clock, informing you that Test Mode is enabled.
You'll need to run a command from an Administrator Command Prompt to do this. To launch one, right-click the Start button or press Windows+X and select "Command Prompt (Admin)".
Paste the following command into the Command Prompt window and press Enter:

bcdedit /set testsigning on

If you see a message saying the value is "protected by Secure Boot policy", that means Secure Boot is enabled in your computer's UEFI firmware. You'll need to disable Secure Boot in your computer's UEFI firmware (also known as its BIOS) to enable test signing mode.
Restart your computer to enter test mode. You'll see the "Test Mode" watermark appear at the bottom right corner of your desktop and you'll be free to install whatever unsigned drivers you want.
To leave test mode, open a Command Prompt window as Administrator once again and run the following command:

bcdedit /set testsigning off

If you use the NVIDIA control panel, make sure to install the qnix.inf file using the Device Manager: qnix.zip (right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the .inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)

Before installing that driver, your monitor shows up as a generic PnP device. That driver tells programs that your monitor isn't a generic 60Hz monitor, but that it's capable of more Hz.
As an example, without that driver, some games may run at 60Hz even if you have 96Hz set in your NVCP. But with that driver the games will be able to tell that your monitor is capable of 96Hz, 120Hz etc.
It has nothing to do with OCing, but getting programs to recognize that you OCed.
You don't need it with AMD cards because with AMD cards I believe that the method of OCing is using CRU. CRU allows you to set "native" resolutions, which games will recognize.

Hope that helps


----------



## PlanK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damnwebsite*
> 
> so i should get this one?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130933173797?hash=item1e7c39ae25:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e&rmvSB=true
> did you get the pixel perfect one?


It's single input dual-DVI, that's the one you're looking for.

I got a pixel perfect one, came with one grey pixel in upper left corner, can only see it on the black screen at the start of a movie, otherwise I could never pick it out. The consensus of this thread in the early days was that buying pixel-perfect made no difference and most monitors would clock to 120Hz. From recent reports on this thread there's now a glass overlay on the panel and most clock to 96Hz. Price is cheaper, it's still a gamble, but it seems there's still more winners than losers.


----------



## kenshinsars

Ive come to the conclusion these monitors are not worth buying. I own an X-Star DP2710, the power jack that went into the monitor eventually ran into problems, would not make good contact to power on the monitor, had to fiddle with it to get it right, and then a minor jolt would send the monitor off again, then the jack started sparking trying to adjust it. And then the monitor jst plain stopped working. Bad board ??? So I then purchased an QNIX QX2710, not 2 months ago, it could clock to 120Hz, but I ran it @90hz, and now my screen intermittently goes to black, hit monitor power button off/on again and screen comes back, but will keep intermittently going to black, clocked it back to default, still doing it. Bad boards ??? Thats 2 Korean monitors in 5months time that went wonky on me.. junk ! Would love nothing more than to get that $600 back as now Im in a position where I cannot currently afford another monitor, at least not one thats any good


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> Ive come to the conclusion these monitors are not worth buying. I own an X-Star DP2710, the power jack that went into the monitor eventually ran into problems, would not make good contact to power on the monitor, had to fiddle with it to get it right, and then a minor jolt would send the monitor off again, then the jack started sparking trying to adjust it. And then the monitor jst plain stopped working. Bad board ??? So I then purchased an QNIX QX2710, not 2 months ago, it could clock to 120Hz, but I ran it @90hz, and now my screen intermittently goes to black, hit monitor power button off/on again and screen comes back, but will keep intermittently going to black, clocked it back to default, still doing it. Bad boards ??? Thats 2 Korean monitors in 5months time that went wonky on me.. junk ! Would love nothing more than to get that $600 back as now Im in a position where I cannot currently afford another monitor, at least not one thats any good


Maybe your GPU is the source of your problem.


----------



## kenshinsars

thought that, and I wish it were, thats under 3yr warranty, but the fact that resetting the monitors power button and it works again, for awhile, makes it fairly conclusive its the monitor


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> thought that, but the fact that resetting the monitors power button and it works leads me to believe its the monitor


It could still be something to do with the output on GPU, easy to test really, just try another monitor or try the monitor on another PC.


----------



## kenshinsars

friend is bringing me a monitor over now to try


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> friend is bringing me a monitor over now to try


I think even more important would be to try your monitor on another PC.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> Ive come to the conclusion these monitors are not worth buying. I own an X-Star DP2710, the power jack that went into the monitor eventually ran into problems, would not make good contact to power on the monitor, had to fiddle with it to get it right, and then a minor jolt would send the monitor off again, then the jack started sparking trying to adjust it. And then the monitor jst plain stopped working. Bad board ??? So I then purchased an QNIX QX2710, not 2 months ago, it could clock to 120Hz, but I ran it @90hz, and now my screen intermittently goes to black, hit monitor power button off/on again and screen comes back, but will keep intermittently going to black, clocked it back to default, still doing it. Bad boards ??? Thats 2 Korean monitors in 5months time that went wonky on me.. junk ! Would love nothing more than to get that $600 back as now Im in a position where I cannot currently afford another monitor, at least not one thats any good


Been mentioned many times (easy to miss due to size of thread) that Qnix/X-Star no longer make the same quality monitors of before. Around end of 2014 they switched to cheaper parts, poorer construction (corner braces instead of full metal frame, etc) and sub-par panels (L07 vs L02 in earlier builds) as well as PWM. The earlier, better models were around $380-400. These new cheaper builds are around $200. Did it not ever occur to anyone why the price is so cheap? Theres your answer.


----------



## kenshinsars

Friends monitor worked fine all nite, never once went to black, plugged back in my QNIX this morning and 15minuts in, screen went to black. If for some reason anyone wants to get one of these Korean IPS displays, I would suggest you back it with a SquareTrade warranty, if they even cover them. Otherwise, pass and get something better. And with that, since Im very short on cash right now, does anyone know of anyone that works on these monitors and can get them working as they should, or refurbishes them ?


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> Friends monitor worked fine all nite, never once went to black, plugged back in my QNIX this morning and 15minuts in, screen went to black. If for some reason anyone wants to get one of these Korean IPS displays, I would suggest you back it with a SquareTrade warranty, if they even cover them. Otherwise, pass and get something better. And with that, since Im very short on cash right now, does anyone know of anyone that works on these monitors and can get them working as they should, or refurbishes them ?


Just to be 110% sure, you should still test the QNIX on another PC, give it to your friend for a day or something?


----------



## jztheman

is there a way to take out the qnix 2414 monitor stand? i can take out the base but not the middle part. i am currently using a dual monitor vesa stand and the middle part is just dangling there and it doesnt look nice.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jztheman*
> 
> is there a way to take out the qnix 2414 monitor stand? i can take out the base but not the middle part. i am currently using a dual monitor vesa stand and the middle part is just dangling there and it doesnt look nice.


Videos all over YouTube for that.. You have to pop open the bezel and then it can be removed and the bezel popped back on it. It's easy, I've done it twice. Take your time popping the tabs loose so you don't break any, it takes a mix of force and finesse. Not as scary as it sounds. Place the monitor down on something soft and flat like your bed then you open it up.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> Ive come to the conclusion these monitors are not worth buying. I own an X-Star DP2710, the power jack that went into the monitor eventually ran into problems, would not make good contact to power on the monitor, had to fiddle with it to get it right, and then a minor jolt would send the monitor off again, then the jack started sparking trying to adjust it. And then the monitor jst plain stopped working. Bad board ??? So I then purchased an QNIX QX2710, not 2 months ago, it could clock to 120Hz, but I ran it @90hz, and now my screen intermittently goes to black, hit monitor power button off/on again and screen comes back, but will keep intermittently going to black, clocked it back to default, still doing it. Bad boards ??? Thats 2 Korean monitors in 5months time that went wonky on me.. junk ! Would love nothing more than to get that $600 back as now Im in a position where I cannot currently afford another monitor, at least not one thats any good


A little bit of research before the new purchase and you could have just gotten the Crossover instead.. They pretty much all hit 100Hz and don't have the same quality issues, no PWM backlight, better panels, better response time, etc. The cord issue sounds like you pulled on it by accident perhaps with your foot and broke the connector. If you had opened it up and fixed it, it would probably still be just fine, instead you fiddled with it until it shorted out the PCB inside and now it's junk. The second one sounds like a bad panel, usually this shows up within the return period but it sounds like you got super unlucky there. I'd recommend anyone looking for one of these monitors look into the Crossover and just spend the extra $80 to $100 USD for a decent display.

I had two QNIX, the first one went bad on me with 24hrs and the second I returned after reading up on the Crossover. I ordered all of them from Newegg so returns were through them instead of having to pay shipping back to Korea.


----------



## kenshinsars

a bit presumptuous no, I never hit the cord with my foot or pulled anything out, the 1st thing I did was buy a reputable power brick and it started having issues with seating from day1, the same with the power brick that came with it, all I would do is turn the power connector, I did not yank on it.


----------



## kenshinsars

a bit presumptuous no, I never hit the cord with my foot or pulled anything out, the 1st thing I did was buy a reputable power brick and it started having issues with seating from day1, the same with the power brick that came with it, all I would do is turn the power connector, I did not yank on it.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinsars*
> 
> a bit presumptuous no, I never hit the cord with my foot or pulled anything out, the 1st thing I did was buy a reputable power brick and it started having issues with seating from day1, the same with the power brick that came with it, all I would do is turn the power connector, I did not yank on it.


So you had a faulty connector from day one and instead of returning it you shorted out the PCB.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> So you had a faulty connector from day one and instead of returning it you shorted out the PCB.


Well played


----------



## kenshinsars

Again, presumption.
Could not return that which has no warranty. It was manufactured refurbished. Not to mention it would have been about $120-150 to ship. And the cost to fix. you can math right ?.


----------



## kenshinsars

and which Crossover model are you referring too, have looked some up but from what I am seeing, in the 27" range, they are all multi-input displays, is it not a single input Crossover that I should be looking for ?


----------



## Mufufu

Hello guys

I need some help here.

i am considering buy a Qnix screen.
The problem is tho, I got a 1080 GPU and that limits the D-DVI to 81Hz (330 Hz something).
Can I get Qnix with Displayport and still overclock it to 90/100Hz?

Best regards Mufufu


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mufufu*
> 
> Hello guys
> 
> I need some help here.
> 
> i am considering buy a Qnix screen.
> The problem is tho, I got a 1080 GPU and that limits the D-DVI to 81Hz (330 Hz something).
> Can I get Qnix with Displayport and still overclock it to 90/100Hz?
> 
> Best regards Mufufu


There are better alternatives than Qnix at the moment. As has been repeated so many times, it is not the same monitor as before, it is substandard in nearly every respect vs the original Qnix when it came out.


----------



## Mufufu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> There are better alternatives than Qnix at the moment. As has been repeated so many times, it is not the same monitor as before, it is substandard in nearly every respect vs the original Qnix when it came out.


Can you please help me choose?

I am looking for a:
IPS pannel
27"
90-144Hz.
1440p prefered
DVI or DP
200£-250£.

Best regards Mufufu


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mufufu*
> 
> Can you please help me choose?
> 
> I am looking for a:
> IPS pannel
> 27"
> 90-144Hz.
> DVI or DP
> 200£-250£.
> 
> Best regards Mufufu


These are better alternatives to Qnix atm.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1594755/crossover-27v-27100q-27-fast-144-27-matte-60-100-144hz-1440p-ahva-with-free-sync

http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


----------



## Mufufu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> These are better alternatives to Qnix atm.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1594755/crossover-27v-27100q-27-fast-144-27-matte-60-100-144hz-1440p-ahva-with-free-sync
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1555354/official-crossover-2795-qhd-pwm-flicker-free-overclock-able-matte-1440p-ah-ips


This would be a better alternative?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mufufu*
> 
> This would be a better alternative?


Yes, but better to seek info in the crossover thread.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Definitely go with the Crossover 2795 QHD, not the one you linked to.. I don't see any shipping to your area, though. Ask around in the Crossover thread


----------



## MadPenguin

Finally part of this club, monitor coming home on monday... last time I had one of these displays I tried debezeling from the guide and without even hurting it i magically found part of the screen broken. So I'm not debezeling this time lol
I really hope I can get 120hz, are there statistics on how many people got to 120hz or above? And is the included cable good enough for it?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPenguin*
> 
> Finally part of this club, monitor coming home on monday... last time I had one of these displays I tried debezeling from the guide and without even hurting it i magically found part of the screen broken. So I'm not debezeling this time lol
> I really hope I can get 120hz, are there statistics on how many people got to 120hz or above? And is the included cable good enough for it?


The included cable is pretty much junk. Expensive cables aren't going to make it magically overclock better but a decent cable is what you want. I bought a few $12 cables with promo codes from various brands. I found my 6' Coboc cable which I paid about $9 for to give me the best overclock on my Crossover 2795 which is stable at 105Hz. The new QNIX aren't really the same quality as the old ones, the panels aren't as good and the quality control has fallen through the cracks. You might get lucky but many people are seeing below 100Hz, some as low as the mid eighties. See what you can get out of it with the stock cable and grab a better one if you're not happy. Hopefully you can break 100Hz! I run 96Hz just to keep 24FPS video smooth and judder free.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> The included cable is pretty much junk. Expensive cables aren't going to make it magically overclock better but a decent cable is what you want. I bought a few $12 cables with promo codes from various brands. I found my 6' Coboc cable which I paid about $9 for to give me the best overclock on my Crossover 2795 which is stable at 105Hz. The new QNIX aren't really the same quality as the old ones, the panels aren't as good and the quality control has fallen through the cracks. You might get lucky but many people are seeing below 100Hz, some as low as the mid eighties. See what you can get out of it with the stock cable and grab a better one if you're not happy. Hopefully you can break 100Hz! I run 96Hz just to keep 24FPS video smooth and judder free.


The cable will barely make any difference if any at all, mine works fine at 120Hz with the stock cable.


----------



## MadPenguin

can you 120hz on the new panels? I didn't know they changed the panels into worse


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> The cable will barely make any difference if any at all, mine works fine at 120Hz with the stock cable.


Mine made a difference of over 20Hz so I'm not sure why you're spreading misinformation. I told him try the stock cable and gave a suggestion if he wants something better. Why do you go around calling people out with nothing to support your arguments? Remember how it went last time you tried to call me out about the whole judder/24FPS thing?


----------



## darxider

my QNIX monitor is acting up lately. when i power up my PC, the power light on the monitor stays red, but when i disconnect/reconnect the DVI cable and/or the power plug or when i fiddle with the power plug, the power light becomes blue and the monitor shows the image (Windows 10 login screen) for a split second and then the image disappears and the power light turns red again. i have to fiddle with the cable until the image sticks again, after which the monitor works fine.

could this be a problem with the power adapter or the monitor's logic board? is there a solution?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darxider*
> 
> my QNIX monitor is acting up lately. when i power up my PC, the power light on the monitor stays red, but when i disconnect/reconnect the DVI cable and/or the power plug or when i fiddle with the power plug, the power light becomes blue and the monitor shows the image (Windows 10 login screen) for a split second and then the image disappears and the power light turns red again. i have to fiddle with the cable until the image sticks again, after which the monitor works fine.
> 
> could this be a problem with the power adapter or the monitor's logic board? is there a solution?


1. Stop using it. (You're going to short it out fiddling with a bad power connector)
2. Unplug it.
3. Check the PCB by removing the monitor bezel and make sure the power connector is tight on the PCB, if so, move on to step 4. If it's loose then it needs to be soldered.
4. Buy a universal/suitable power adapter and see if it's better.
5. Enjoy (Hopefully)


----------



## MadPenguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPenguin*
> 
> can you 120hz on the new panels? I didn't know they changed the panels into worse


sorry i forgot to quote on this post, this question was referred to stige. are you using the new panels?


----------



## MadPenguin

got mine. I can do 96hz! Wish I could get it up to 120hz though


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPenguin*
> 
> got mine. I can do 96hz! Wish I could get it up to 120hz though


You'll find it's much easier to maintain 96 FPS than it will be 120 FPS anyway... I generally set my frame limit to 100 FPS and get a silky smooth, tear-free gaming experience in Battlefield without added delay from VSync.


----------



## Zen00

Okay, I set my monitor to 96 Hz in the Screen Resolution advanced settings (Windows 7) using a CRU profile I created. But when I check my monitor on UFO Test it says it's only going at 60 FPS. What's up with this?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> Okay, I set my monitor to 96 Hz in the Screen Resolution advanced settings (Windows 7) using a CRU profile I created. But when I check my monitor on UFO Test it says it's only going at 60 FPS. What's up with this?


Could be the browser you are using, some won't go over 60, IIRC.


----------



## Zen00

Yeah, I tried Firefox and Chrome first, but IE shows up as 96.


----------



## MadPenguin

do the new panels have different colors from the previous ones? because I tried the ICC profile but it actually looks worse to me. Maybe it's because I'm also using a PB278QR as a monitor but the qnix just looks either yellow or bluish (with the icc)


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPenguin*
> 
> do the new panels have different colors from the previous ones? because I tried the ICC profile but it actually looks worse to me. Maybe it's because I'm also using a PB278QR as a monitor but the qnix just looks either yellow or bluish (with the icc)


Well, the Asus advertises "low blue light" on the product page so anything next to it will either look cool (blue) or warm (yellow) as a result. Use your Nvidia or AMD control panel for the GPU and apply some custom color correction there to see if you can get things more to your liking.


----------



## MashedPotato1

Bought one of these monitors midway through last year. Served me really well. Except now ive got dark patchs along the top of the screen due to the backlight dying.

Messaged the seller on ebay (accessorieswhole, who i have bought a few other items from) and they said i can send it back for a free panel replacement, BUT i have to pay shipping both ways due to being outside the three month period. Which is great, but a massive setback for me. Being in Australia, to ship it back and have it returned it going to cost me close to $110 USD as i got quote from a few couriers and Australia Post, which isnt exactly worth while for me as i can buy a 1440p monitor from a AUS based pc store + a few coffees worth of money ontop.

I will keep this monitor as a spare / movie TV as the backlight issues are along the top where the black bars in movies would be.


----------



## kaiju

Is there any way to stop screen tearing without vsync/triple buffering on?

I have this monitor at 110hz but with vsync, it obviously caps at 60FPS.

Is it a question of not being allowed to have the best of both worlds?


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Is there any way to stop screen tearing without vsync/triple buffering on?
> 
> I have this monitor at 110hz but with vsync, it obviously caps at 60FPS.
> 
> Is it a question of not being allowed to have the best of both worlds?


Vsync caps at your refresh rate, not 60 FPS.
And Vsync is garbage anyway with the massive delay it brings with it.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Is there any way to stop screen tearing without vsync/triple buffering on?
> 
> I have this monitor at 110hz but with vsync, it obviously caps at 60FPS.
> 
> Is it a question of not being allowed to have the best of both worlds?


Best bet is to limit the FPS to something a few FPS higher than your refresh rate. In BF1 and BF4 I use a 100 FPS cap with my monitor at 96Hz which results in smooth gameplay without tearing or any added delay. If you match the frame limit to your refresh rate exactly, it won't feel smooth.. So, be sure to set the FPS cap about 4-5 FPS higher than your refresh rate.(try 115 FPS cap with 110Hz)


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Vsync caps at your refresh rate, not 60 FPS.
> And Vsync is garbage anyway with the massive delay it brings with it.


Oh I see, I thought triple buffering eliminated the input lag?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Best bet is to limit the FPS to something a few FPS higher than your refresh rate. In BF1 and BF4 I use a 100 FPS cap with my monitor at 96Hz which results in smooth gameplay without tearing or any added delay. If you match the frame limit to your refresh rate exactly, it won't feel smooth.. So, be sure to set the FPS cap about 4-5 FPS higher than your refresh rate.(try 115 FPS cap with 110Hz)


Ah, okay. That's great, thanks! I set it to 115 and will see how it goes.

The difference quite apparent from 60hz to 110hz.


----------



## carlhua

Guys, I need a little help here as I am running out of ideas.

I am trying to connect this monitor to my computer or surfacebook via a DVI-D to MDP cable (active), this is the cable I purchased:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZCCZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, when I try to connect it to my computer, windows 10 detects it under device manager but when I go to display settings, it only shows one monitor. Also it shows as generic pnp monitor under device manager

When I try to connect it to my surface book, I can see it under device manager and display settings, but whenever I tried to adjust the setting, it says that setting cannot be saved and the resolution for the monitor is greyed out.

I have tried various adapters and cables to convert the DVI-D signal to mdp as that is the ONLY option i have to connect it to my surface book.

DVI to DVI connection to my computer works fine.

any help is appreciated.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhua*
> 
> Guys, I need a little help here as I am running out of ideas.
> 
> I am trying to connect this monitor to my computer or surfacebook via a DVI-D to MDP cable (active), this is the cable I purchased:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZCCZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> However, when I try to connect it to my computer, windows 10 detects it under device manager but when I go to display settings, it only shows one monitor. Also it shows as generic pnp monitor under device manager
> 
> When I try to connect it to my surface book, I can see it under device manager and display settings, but whenever I tried to adjust the setting, it says that setting cannot be saved and the resolution for the monitor is greyed out.
> 
> I have tried various adapters and cables to convert the DVI-D signal to mdp as that is the ONLY option i have to connect it to my surface book.
> 
> DVI to DVI connection to my computer works fine.
> 
> any help is appreciated.


These monitors only work with a dual link DVI port. Converters won't work, active or otherwise. Grab a cheap $60 monitor (search slickdeals.com) for your surface.


----------



## faction87

Im looking to upgrade from my HD 24' Asus 144hz 1ms monitor, I got these two im looking at. also maybe monoprice if those are good.

QNIX QX2710 27' sounds nice?

or

Crossover 289K 4k?

Thanks
Got a 980 Ti too btw, dont want any screen tearing.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faction87*
> 
> Im looking to upgrade from my HD 24' Asus 144hz 1ms monitor, I got these two im looking at. also maybe monoprice if those are good.
> 
> QNIX QX2710 27' sounds nice?
> 
> or
> 
> Crossover 289K 4k?
> 
> Thanks
> Got a 980 Ti too btw, dont want any screen tearing.


If you don't want any screen tearing and you're looking for an upgrade to your current monitor then I don't think either of the two you listed above are going to make you happy. The 4K one isn't going to allow you to play games at much over 40 FPS with the 980TI so you'll never be using VSYNC. The QNIX is highly unlikely to overclock past 100HZ anymore (cheaper build than it used to be) so that's not an upgrade either.


----------



## bbond007

Hello all...

I have not been using my X-star monitor for quite some time so i decided I'd mount on the wall out on the (enclosed) back porch.

Anyway, I was going to try an use it with a Chromecast but that does not work using the HDMI to DVI adapters I tried. It just cycles through various solid colors.

Same thing happened with a Raspberry PI 3.

I assume this is an issue with my converters not being dual-link. If I get a dual-link cable will these devices work with the x-star at all? I know its not going to be doing 1440p butI was just hoping for 1080p...

Wish I would have tested to see if these devices work with the x-star before I did all the drilling into cement









For now I just hooked a computer to it...

Thanks


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> Hello all...
> 
> I have not been using my X-star monitor for quite some time so i decided I'd mount on the wall out on the (enclosed) back porch.
> 
> Anyway, I was going to try an use it with a Chromecast but that does not work using the HDMI to DVI adapters I tried. It just cycles through various solid colors.
> 
> Same thing happened with a Raspberry PI 3.
> 
> I assume this is an issue with my converters not being dual-link. If I get a dual-link cable will these devices work with the x-star at all? I know its not going to be doing 1440p butI was just hoping for 1080p...
> 
> Wish I would have tested to see if these devices work with the x-star before I did all the drilling into cement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now I just hooked a computer to it...
> 
> Thanks


These don't work with converters, active or otherwise. You need a GPU with dual link DVI. These don't have the circuitry to deal with other signals, it's one of the reasons they were so cheap.


----------



## faction87

What about if I play games in 1080. Watch movies, use desktop exp. as 4k. or Get a 2k Monitor?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faction87*
> 
> What about if I play games in 1080. Watch movies, use desktop exp. as 4k. or Get a 2k Monitor?


I suggest 1440p seeing as at 27" you can't see the difference between 2K and 4K anyway. 1440p puts you right in between 1080p and 4K and is plenty of resolution to look great without requiring rediculous PC specs just to get 45 FPS in 4K.

Look into a 1440P monitor, 27" with FreeSync or G-Sync if you want the smoothest gaming experience with a nice resolution. I'd suggest something that can do at least 100Hz for FPS gaming. Prices are coming down on monitors and about $400 can get you an awesome one... If you're going to get a Korean monitor then look at the Crossover 2795 QHD. It's 27" 1440p and most of them overclock past 100Hz. No frills, no G-Sync or FreeSync, only works with Dual Link DVI connections on modern GPU's but it's a solid Korean monitor for around $320 USD


----------



## faction87

Ok yeah thats an option, also looking at ASUS PB287Q.


----------



## kaiju

So this monitor isn't good at overclocking anymore? Is that an assumption based on a few reviews as I'm looking to get another one of these bad boys.

The Crossover panel doesn't seem to overclock well based on what I've read in the last half an hour but please prove me wrong.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> So this monitor isn't good at overclocking anymore? Is that an assumption based on a few reviews as I'm looking to get another one of these bad boys.
> 
> The Crossover panel doesn't seem to overclock well based on what I've read in the last half an hour but please prove me wrong.


Overclocking should be the least of your concerns when considering Crossover vs Qnix. Qnix did a bait and switch since 2 years ago, what you get now is not same panel (L07), poor build quality, lesser color space, PWM. Ever wonder why the price its so cheap nowadays?

more info: 




(Note the washed out colors of the new panel (L07) vs the old (L02) at 1:25m).

The first page of the thread is outdated and useless. People who are buying this monitor today are getting an inferior product.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> So this monitor isn't good at overclocking anymore? Is that an assumption based on a few reviews as I'm looking to get another one of these bad boys.
> 
> The Crossover panel doesn't seem to overclock well based on what I've read in the last half an hour but please prove me wrong.


The Crossover should reach at least 100Hz... Mine does 106 but I run 96 to keep multiples of 24 for judder free playback of Blu-Ray movies. The Crossover is a much better panel, better colors, no PWM backlight to cause eye strain, mine has zero backlight bleed but I got lucky there.. Most users have some bleed but only noticeable on a completely black image for the most part. I'd recommend the Crossover 2795 QHD all day long, but I'm not sure you can find one. I've been looking around for friends and I've been unable to locate one for a reasonable price. I paid $330 for mine on Newegg but now the sellers on there have jacked the price up to just shy of $400 which makes it a much less appealing deal seeing as I can have the same resolution with FreeSync or G-Sync for just shy of $500.


----------



## carlhua

so are you saying that I have no other option? my surface book does not have DVI capability!


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhua*
> 
> so are you saying that I have no other option? my surface book does not have DVI capability!


Nope, you'll need a different monitor to use with your surface. Converters won't work. It's rather clearly noted on the sales pages/descriptions for these monitors from what I've noticed online.


----------



## DeftonerDad

Thanks for all this info! Im having issues with my overclock. I have it set to 100hz through Nvidia control panel but when i run the motion blur test it says 60hz still. I tried updating the driver but couldnt find the option in nvidia control panel.


----------



## DeftonerDad

So i got the patch applied finally using control panel and when i run the refresh rate test it keeps saying its only 60hz. I have the monitor set to 96hz currently.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeftonerDad*
> 
> Thanks for all this info! Im having issues with my overclock. I have it set to 100hz through Nvidia control panel but when i run the motion blur test it says 60hz still. I tried updating the driver but couldnt find the option in nvidia control panel.


Try a different browser for the blur test, some only support up to 60Hz.


----------



## DeftonerDad

Will try that now buddy. Im pretty sure the overclock has took. I read that you have to set the launch options in steam games to the overclocked refresh rate. I did this then ran a couple games with vsync on and it was pegged at 100.


----------



## TheTasty1

REF: post #25500 of 25565

Hey Tomcat, sorry for the delay on getting back to you after your prompt response......I had a few things crop up on me, life etc. Anyway, just wanted to let you know that I followed your advice and was successful in sorting out my problem so I wanted to say Thank You....... 
Cheers!


----------



## Uyski

Does anyone know why I'm getting less FPS when the screen is overclocked to 96hz+?
Everything over 96hz will reduce my fps alot.

EDIT: Im running 980ti SLI. On 3dmark I get 29k gpu score with over 96hz, while with 96 I get 38k.
EDIT2: I found out that the FPS drop happens when the pixel clock goes over 400. 398 is fine.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uyski*
> 
> Does anyone know why I'm getting less FPS when the screen is overclocked to 96hz+?
> Everything over 96hz will reduce my fps alot.
> 
> EDIT: Im running 980ti SLI. On 3dmark I get 29k gpu score with over 96hz, while with 96 I get 38k.
> EDIT2: I found out that the FPS drop happens when the pixel clock goes over 400. 398 is fine.


Fit 2 SLI bridges. That fixed it for me.


----------



## mattyb89

Quick question. Does anyone know what these two marks are that have appeared on my panel. I was thinking dead pixel at first, but it's too big.


----------



## Uyski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Fit 2 SLI bridges. That fixed it for me.


Wow , will that actually work? Are you using maxwell or pascal? And just 2 random flex bridges?


----------



## OpenUpItsDave

Hey there! New to this thread...not new to the monitor. Awesome for the price wow.

Ive never tried using a new icc because all of the links are broken! Could anyone link me to a good profile for around 100hz?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OpenUpItsDave*
> 
> Hey there! New to this thread...not new to the monitor. Awesome for the price!
> 
> Ive never tried using a new icc because all of the links are broken! Could anyone link me to a good profile for around 100hz?
> 
> I am also confused about the buttons on the monitor. I know the left most buttons control brightness, but what about the others? And how can I factory reset this monitor?


Here are some profiles:

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/monitor-reviews-discussion/13500-qnix-qx2710-review-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html#post1016117

Bear in mind they were made for the particular Qnix model of the author. Ideally color profiles should be custom made according to ones own monitor. Generally they are OK since most Qnixs are close (if same panel, ie, LTM270DL02 and not 07 like more recent panels).


----------



## OpenUpItsDave

Thanks alot for that! I loaded his 96hz icc and my shadows look more detailed. Im not sure which panel I have, but it looks a lil nicer.

-$210 shipped from Ebay in 3 days.
-Not the Multi. The one I have is DVI only.
-Matte.
-Not a "perfect pixel" or an "off-grade" -- Just the regular one I guess.
-No dead pixels
-Has back-light bleed
-Purchased in 2015.

As for overclocking, I first had to create a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel. Then I used CRU to add an "LCD Reduced" profile for each resolution I added in Nvidia.

Overclock testing:

@ 110hz, an opaque pink strip covers about 20% of the right side of the screen. anything past 110hz, there is too much artifacting and becomes unusable. I will only use 110hz if I want the most fps possible when im gaming.

@ ~103hz, all discoloration or artifacting is gone.

I just leave mine set @ 100hz.....or 96hz for movies.

Now I just need to fix the backlight bleed...


----------



## Pechorin

Hello folks!

I wonder if my Qnix QX2710 evolution II DVI only version with LTM270DL07-M01 screen uses LED PWM Dimming.
Is there anyway to check if it does and get rid of it?

Thank you.


----------



## kmetek

is R9 280X enough for 27'' QHD FREESYNC IPS 144MHz?


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmetek*
> 
> is R9 280X enough for 27'' QHD FREESYNC IPS 144MHz?


Not even close, my 390 just barely cuts it for near max settings in well optimized games while being overclocked to 1200/1650.

But I also had a 660Ti when I bought this QNIX so...


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmetek*
> 
> is R9 280X enough for 27'' QHD FREESYNC IPS 144MHz?


GTX1070 would be my next purchase to make 1440p sing, however I've stopped gaming altogether recently so just gonna kick it with my 660 till it dies.


----------



## Uyski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Fit 2 SLI bridges. That fixed it for me.


Unfortunately didnt work for me. Still losing 50fps from 180 to 130 when I go over 96 hz..


----------



## kmetek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Not even close, my 390 just barely cuts it for near max settings in well optimized games while being overclocked to 1200/1650.
> 
> But I also had a 660Ti when I bought this QNIX so...


R9 280X does support FREESYNC at all?


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmetek*
> 
> R9 280X does support FREESYNC at all?


First google results: http://support.amd.com/en-us/search/faq/219


----------



## kmetek

thanks, so it does support









All AMD Radeon™ graphics cards in the AMD Radeon™ HD 7000, HD 8000, R7 or *R9* Series will support AMD FreeSync™ technology for video playback and power-saving purposes. The AMD Radeon™ R9 295X2, 290X, R9 290, R9 285, R7 260X and R7 260 GPUs additionally feature updated display controllers that will support dynamic refresh rates during gaming.


----------



## kelnok902

Ok so I ran into some trouble all of a sudden... I am running 2 QNIX 2710 1 QHD2710R and 1 QX2710LED both have been running great only a few months old. I had the QHD2710 OCed at one point to 140HZ no issues. Today I went to turn it on and I saw that the custom res in the nvidia CP was gone so I tried to re make it. When I hit test it went black and didnt come back so I had to reboot. Now the monitor doesn't show at all in the device manager and I am not sure why. I never left the monitor on OC mode because I never really needed it. I wanted to get to playing some games tonight so I went to OC it.. any ideas as to why this is happening now?

PS.. Both monitors are hooked via DP cables.

UPDATE: never mind IDK *** happened I rebooted again and it came back on... wooo that was scary


----------



## kelnok902

I can't seem to find it in the search of this thread...

My 2 monitors both have MultiPorts can anyone else confirm that when using the DP port you cant OC the screens. Every time I try it locks up and I have to reboot to get it to go back to normal. When I get back hope tonight I am going to put the DVI-D cable back on and try again.


----------



## OutlawII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kelnok902*
> 
> I can't seem to find it in the search of this thread...
> 
> My 2 monitors both have MultiPorts can anyone else confirm that when using the DP port you cant OC the screens. Every time I try it locks up and I have to reboot to get it to go back to normal. When I get back hope tonight I am going to put the DVI-D cable back on and try again.


I remember reading that somewhere in here but not sure where.Only way to OC is with DVI-D


----------



## kelnok902

Thax thats what I guessed.. I am now going to look for a 10' + dvi-d dual link if I can. I just bought my DP cables too didn't even think of that. Any known working cables out side of the one that came with the screen as its to short to run for my set up once I am done mounting it.


----------



## efatty

I have had the Q2710 for a bit over a year now. I originally OC'd it to 96Hz but could not get good results at 110 Hz (lines and artifacting). At some point I turned off the OC because I had to do a full wipe of the display drivers. I tried again yesterday to OC back to 96Hz. However, when I followed the same instructions I did last time the display did not overclock. When I go to test the monitor it sits at 60Hz even when I have selected 96Hz in the windows settings. I have the following relevant specs:

AMD 280x crossfired with a 7970
Windows 10

Can any AMD users confirm that the old instructions (patch drivers -> install CRU -> set OC profile -> change to 96hz in windows settings) still work? Are there any updated instructions for how to get the monitor to OC with newer Crimson drivers? I am at a loss for why it wont work.


----------



## Clouded Sun

I have a custom profile with 110hz with my GTX 1070 Gaming X, but the UFO Test says it's only 55 FPS. How do I fix that?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clouded Sun*
> 
> I have a custom profile with 110hz with my GTX 1070 Gaming X, but the UFO Test says it's only 55 FPS. How do I fix that?


Try Chrome or Edge... not sure what's the best for the UFO Test but some browsers don't support over 60 FPS


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Having a problem with my Qnix QX2710 recently, it's the standard DVI only one.

The monitor works perfectly when its turned on, exactly as it always has done. Trouble is, when I turn my PC off, after a few hours the monitor will start running RGB test cycles and popping on and off every few seconds. This happens intermittently, it's not a consistent cycle. If I press the power button on the monitor to put it into standby mode (meaning the LED is red) it'll just flash the backlight every few seconds.

Anyone know why this might be happening? I'm hoping it might be something as simple as my DVI cable going bad but I don't have another one to check right now, but I'll get my hands on one. Unplugging the power brick then plugging it back in doesn't fix it.


----------



## Clouded Sun

Do I overclock my X-Star DP2710 with QNIX drivers?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Try Chrome or Edge... not sure what's the best for the UFO Test but some browsers don't support over 60 FPS


IE was the only one that worked. Said Edge wasn't supported and Chrome only always showed 60.

I've since gotten it fixed, no biggie. I'm not sure how to force it in games though - they still seem like 60.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clouded Sun*
> 
> Do I overclock my X-Star DP2710 with QNIX drivers?
> IE was the only one that worked. Said Edge wasn't supported and Chrome only always showed 60.
> 
> I've since gotten it fixed, no biggie. I'm not sure how to force it in games though - they still seem like 60.


Just go into the display driver and set up a custom resolution, the prompt will allow you to input the desired refresh rate. Turn on Vsync in a game and run Fraps and see if the FPS matches the refresh rate for the custom resolution you applied.


----------



## Jboss

I finally made the transition from Windows 7 to Windows 10 today. For some reason when I try to set up my overclock is where my computer will not boot up whenever I turn it back on or reboot. I installed the correct video drivers according to my graphic card and everything, I've formatted Windows 10 about two times now and it never boots. Is there a workaround to have it work on Windows 10 or is it Windows 7 and below?

Edit: I was one of the original buyers of the monitor, i was able to do 96hz no problems but have only had problems when going from Windows 7 to Windows 10.


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Edit: I was one of the original buyers of the monitor, i was able to do 96hz no problems but have only had problems when going from Windows 7 to Windows 10.


Are you using the GPU software or a third party program? When I moved from Windows 7 to 10, third party software wouldn't work, so ended up using the Nvidia control panel.


----------



## Clouded Sun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Just go into the display driver and set up a custom resolution, the prompt will allow you to input the desired refresh rate. Turn on Vsync in a game and run Fraps and see if the FPS matches the refresh rate for the custom resolution you applied.


Not at home right now, but does Fraps come with NvCP?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clouded Sun*
> 
> Not at home right now, but does Fraps come with NvCP?


No. Download it here.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Are you using the GPU software or a third party program? When I moved from Windows 7 to 10, third party software wouldn't work, so ended up using the Nvidia control panel.


I tried using CRU like how it is on Windows 7. I have a HD 7950 GPU, never upgraded so i think it's a Windows 10 issue or i'm doing something wrong. Should i just install Windows 10, and set my OC through the GPU software and skip the CRU program entirely? Whenever i had set the timings and OC on CRU is where i would reboot the PC and it would stay on a black screen.


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> I tried using CRU like how it is on Windows 7. I have a HD 7950 GPU, never upgraded so i think it's a Windows 10 issue or i'm doing something wrong. Should i just install Windows 10, and set my OC through the GPU software and skip the CRU program entirely? Whenever i had set the timings and OC on CRU is where i would reboot the PC and it would stay on a black screen.


Yeah, CRU didn't work for me in Windows 10. The Nvidia control panel had an option in the resolution section to allow for custom options. See if your AMD card also has this feature.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Yeah, CRU didn't work for me in Windows 10. The Nvidia control panel had an option in the resolution section to allow for custom options. See if your AMD card also has this feature.


"The custom resolution settings are not compatible with this display. Reconfigure your settings and try again"

Hmm, i think this is the common problem other Windows 10 users are having too.


----------



## darthdirty

i love this screen but is there a 4k equivalent?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> i love this screen but is there a 4k equivalent?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1607952/qnix-uhd3216r-4k-matte-ahva-with-amd-free-sync/0_100


----------



## Clouded Sun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> No. Download it here.


Thanks. Although The UFO Tests were the same, I played Witcher 2 with FRAPS on and found it to be running at 110 FPS with V-Sync


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthdirty*
> 
> i love this screen but is there a 4k equivalent?


Here is another one: Is there one with HDR support out yet? Or it that still just a wet dream? Sub-4K HDR monitor? 1440p + HDR would be perfect.


----------



## darthdirty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1607952/qnix-uhd3216r-4k-matte-ahva-with-amd-free-sync/0_100


but its so damn big, i like having 2 screens and i dont think my 980 could run a 4k and a 1440
plus i have to worry is they fit on my desk


----------



## Zacharybinx34

So I'm looking to pick up a monitor for my new XPS 15 to plug into at work. Guessing I would have to get the True10 version (though the XPS has a Nvidia GTX 1050, but no DVI port. Which monitor do I want? Should I just get a completely different 1440p monitor?

Thanks!


----------



## r_aquarii

anyone else had screen image burn-in on the monitor? any possible way to fix it?
the image is highly visible against white background


----------



## Balsagna

I have one of the original QNIX 1440p monitors that hits 120hz, no stuck pixels and very little BLB and am considering selling it and upgrading to an Ultrawide.

Anyone know what these puppies are selling for now a days? It's the matte one with the PWM if I remember right (or was it without?)


----------



## Perrry

Ok, so... I'm building my own high fps rig and am looking at getting a 2k monitor. I can't read through 2500 pages so what would you guys suggest i look at? I'd like a 30"+ & 60hz+ for around £500 or less... anybody got any recommendations? thanks


----------



## HD5830Gamer

For some reason It's literally impossible to find a glossy screen. Was pretty much forced to go with the QNIX 2710 even with a $1000 budget. I do both gaming and browsing. I have tried a true 144hz but the matte screen just kills it for me. Most are the exact opposite. Perhaps an anti reflective coating like what you see on the new Apple computers would "please" the matte crowd without destroying image quality. A full gloss screen doesn't bother me, I have full control over my lighting.

Is it really that hard to offer both matte/gloss options like QNIX does?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HD5830Gamer*
> 
> For some reason It's literally impossible to find a glossy screen. Was pretty much forced to go with the QNIX 2710 even with a $1000 budget. I do both gaming and browsing. I have tried a true 144hz but the matte screen just kills it for me. Most are the exact opposite. Perhaps an anti reflective coating like what you see on the new Apple computers would "please" the matte crowd without destroying image quality. A full gloss screen doesn't bother me, I have full control over my lighting.
> 
> Is it really that hard to offer both matte/gloss options like QNIX does?


I've always been a proponent of semi matte coatings but lately I've been turning off the lights and playing games/watching movies in total darkness and it's been a more immersive experience. Now i kinda want a glossy screen. I wish i chose one when i bought mine in 2013 when they were readily available.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HD5830Gamer*
> 
> For some reason It's literally impossible to find a glossy screen. Was pretty much forced to go with the QNIX 2710 even with a $1000 budget. I do both gaming and browsing. I have tried a true 144hz but the matte screen just kills it for me. Most are the exact opposite. Perhaps an anti reflective coating like what you see on the new Apple computers would "please" the matte crowd without destroying image quality. A full gloss screen doesn't bother me, I have full control over my lighting.
> 
> Is it really that hard to offer both matte/gloss options like QNIX does?


Atleast in the past the Glossy screens QNIX offered were just a tempered glass over a Matte panel.
I won the lottery though and had a true Glossy screen under the Tempered Glass by some miracle and I would never go back to Matte now that I have this real Glossy.


----------



## catbeef

just thought i'd ask - has anyone got any qx2710 timings for 96hz that'll let an amd card downclock on desktop?

i don't know what all these numbers mean, but on the qnix overclocking thread*, i notice that the only difference between my 96hz automatic timings and the 110hz downclockable timings is that my vertical back porch is 33.
is there any harm in me changing my 96hz vertical back porch to 69? will that allow my graphics card memory to downclock when idling?

i tried some googlings, but people seemed to talk about 110/120hz a lot more and nobody seemed to care about 96. my panel does not enjoy going above 96, so i'm just curious if it is possible, and what these numbers actually mean if someone fancies giving a quick lesson!

_*which has not been bumped in a while and i don't wanna be that person if i can help it_


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbeef*
> 
> just thought i'd ask - has anyone got any qx2710 timings for 96hz that'll let an amd card downclock on desktop?
> 
> i don't know what all these numbers mean, but on the qnix overclocking thread*, i notice that the only difference between my 96hz automatic timings and the 110hz downclockable timings is that my vertical back porch is 33.
> is there any harm in me changing my 96hz vertical back porch to 69? will that allow my graphics card memory to downclock when idling?
> 
> i tried some googlings, but people seemed to talk about 110/120hz a lot more and nobody seemed to care about 96. my panel does not enjoy going above 96, so i'm just curious if it is possible, and what these numbers actually mean if someone fancies giving a quick lesson!
> 
> _*which has not been bumped in a while and i don't wanna be that person if i can help it_


No harm in experimenting with the timings.. See if any of them work for you and yield the intended result.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HD5830Gamer*
> 
> For some reason It's literally impossible to find a glossy screen. Was pretty much forced to go with the QNIX 2710 even with a $1000 budget. I do both gaming and browsing. I have tried a true 144hz but the matte screen just kills it for me. Most are the exact opposite. Perhaps an anti reflective coating like what you see on the new Apple computers would "please" the matte crowd without destroying image quality. A full gloss screen doesn't bother me, I have full control over my lighting.
> 
> Is it really that hard to offer both matte/gloss options like QNIX does?


I hear ya! Quite Disappointing, 80% of true professionals abhor a matte coating! ... they rarely come up, but this just popped on Ebay, little pricy, do your homework (questions) ... could be a jem!









http://www.ebay.com/itm/Overclockable-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-110Hz-PLS-Monitor-/272448068008?hash=item3f6f2b99a8:g:xc0AAOSwNnRYjBoO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbeef*
> 
> just thought i'd ask - has anyone got any qx2710 timings for 96hz that'll let an amd card downclock on desktop?
> 
> i don't know what all these numbers mean, but on the qnix overclocking thread*, i notice that the only difference between my 96hz automatic timings and the 110hz downclockable timings is that my vertical back porch is 33.
> is there any harm in me changing my 96hz vertical back porch to 69? will that allow my graphics card memory to downclock when idling?
> 
> i tried some googlings, but people seemed to talk about 110/120hz a lot more and nobody seemed to care about 96. my panel does not enjoy going above 96, so i'm just curious if it is possible, and what these numbers actually mean if someone fancies giving a quick lesson!
> 
> _*which has not been bumped in a while and i don't wanna be that person if i can help it_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No harm in experimenting with the timings.. See if any of them work for you and yield the intended result.
Click to expand...

This^^^^ +R







... Won't hurt anything to experiment, this is unusual, usually only occurs at the higher refresh rates


----------



## HD5830Gamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I hear ya! Quite Disappointing, 80% of true professionals abhor a matte coating! ... they rarely come up, but this just popped on Ebay, little pricy, do your homework (questions) ... could be a jem!


I wonder if that is one of the original ones without PWM dimming? mine has the PWM dimming. I can't notice it but that doesn't mean its not there. It could be messing with my eyes in a very subtle way. I have it at 50% brightness. I'm really thinking about getting a Grade A used Apple Cinema Display but It can't overclock. I have my QNIX @ 80hz, I can go up to 96hz without problems but I don't wanna strain the monitor. 80hz is still 20hz,20 fps more than 60hz and you can definitely feel and see it even when just browsing the web, everything feels smoother and the mouse feels much more responsive and natural. I wonder which is the lesser evil, PWM dimming or 60hz? how bad is mouse lag on the Cinema display? does anyone here have one to compare with other monitors?

Another thing I'm worried about, the Cinema display has a piece of untreated glass that is not bonded to the polarizer and causes internal reflections. Untreated glass is also much more reflective than glossy polarizing film. When I mean untreated I mean it doesn't have the anti-reflective coating like what you see on the new Apple computers and top dollar camera/binocular lenses. It's a coating that allows a glossy surface to remain glossy while reducing reflections like a matte coating without causing a hazy/lifeless/boring image..

I mean since matte panels are glossy panels just with a film applied to them could they just have the option when you order to chose between matte/gloss? QNIX does it why can't Dell, Asus? I have removed the AG coating on my old 1080p monitor and it came off with 3 hours soaking and I cleaned the glue residue with a washcloth. I'm just kinda worried about trying it on a $500+ monitor.


----------



## 0verpowered

So after running my qx2710 at 105 -110hz for 2 years, my monitor yesterday started to flicker on and off, like literally the screen would go black for a second then show my desktop, flash to black again back and forth until I powered it off and on. Unfortunately, this persisted again after some time of use. After awhile, the monitor just stopped turning back on and you could hear a faint clicking noise at the back. RIP...

Just wanted to let you guys know of my experience in case anybody else doesn't want theirs to suffer the same fate.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0verpowered*
> 
> So after running my qx2710 at 105 -110hz for 2 years, my monitor yesterday started to flicker on and off, like literally the screen would go black for a second then show my desktop, flash to black again back and forth until I powered it off and on. Unfortunately, this persisted again after some time of use. After awhile, the monitor just stopped turning back on and you could hear a faint clicking noise at the back. RIP...
> 
> Just wanted to let you guys know of my experience in case anybody else doesn't want theirs to suffer the same fate.


Check for a bad capacitor.


----------



## Mnoordhof

Hey Guys,

Last week i bought the Xstar dp2710led, but i can't get it to work.
I work with a HP Zbook 15 which has a i7-4700MQ CPU and Nvidia K1100M GPU.
The first thing i found out is that the dvi output on my docking-station looks like dual link but actually is single link.
Now i have it connected via display-port to dvi adapter.
In the windows resolution settings it detects that a dual-link monitor is connected.
But the resolution setting is grayed out at 1080p, i also can't access advanced settings.
I updated the drivers of my GPU and rebooted with the lid closed and the monitor connected.
I got the monitor to work with the same cables (except for the display-port to DVI adapter) on a friends computer.

I am really out of ideas and hoped that you guys would help me out.

PS: Sorry if my English isn't good, i'm Dutch.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnoordhof*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Last week i bought the Xstar dp2710led, but i can't get it to work.
> I work with a HP Zbook 15 which has a i7-4700MQ CPU and Nvidia K1100M GPU.
> The first thing i found out is that the dvi output on my docking-station looks like dual link but actually is single link.
> Now i have it connected via display-port to dvi adapter.
> In the windows resolution settings it detects that a dual-link monitor is connected.
> But the resolution setting is grayed out at 1080p, i also can't access advanced settings.
> I updated the drivers of my GPU and rebooted with the lid closed and the monitor connected.
> I got the monitor to work with the same cables (except for the display-port to DVI adapter) on a friends computer.
> 
> I am really out of ideas and hoped that you guys would help me out.
> 
> PS: Sorry if my English isn't good, i'm Dutch.


Adapters/converters won't work with these displays, active or otherwise. You need a modern GPU capable of dual link DVI, most mobile GPU's aren't dual link. This information is clearly listed on the product description.There's nothing wrong with your monitor.


----------



## HiddenFatKid

Just sold my QX2710, wanted to upgrade to a 43" korean 4k panel, absolutely no regrets for either monitor, the qx2710 made me realize how good korean panels are, mine OC'd to 110hz no problem, and it looked CRISP! Definitely get one if you are on the fence about it!


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Well, after three almost three years my Qnix QX2710 has died (10 minutes ago)

Over the last two days when I turned my PC and monitor on I would hear a high pitched noise lasting around two seconds. I wasn't sure where it was coming from, then today the monitor turned off and on a couple of times when I turned the PC on.

Hours later it turned off and on several times on it's own as I was spelunking through the Ryzen release thread. It turned on once again then faded away and there was a smell resembling a garden section in a store. The smell was coming from the monitor and not the power converter.

Right now I have $300 that I was going to use for a tablet, but not anymore I guess, at least I have some money for a display.

I've been wanting a 27" 1440p IPS 144hz Gsync display for a while, guess it's time to save for one.

Any recommendations ?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Well, after three years my Qnix QX2710 has died (10 minutes ago)
> 
> Over the last two days when I turned my PC and monitor on I would hear a high pitched noise lasting around two seconds. I wasn't sure where it was coming from, then today the monitor turned off and on a couple of times when I turned the PC on.
> 
> Hours later it turned off and on several times on it's own as I was spelunking through the Ryzen release thread. It turned on once again then faded away and there was a smell resembling a garden section in a store. The smell was coming from the monitor and not the power converter.
> 
> Right now I have $300 that I was going to use for a tablet, but not anymore I guess, at least I have some money for a display.
> 
> I've been wanting a 27" 1440p IPS 144hz Gsync display for a while, guess it's time to save for one.
> 
> Any recommendations ?


Open up the broken display, see what's broken.. Take photos of the capacitor that's toasted and find a match online. Solder, profit.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Open up the broken display, see what's broken.. Take photos of the capacitor that's toasted and find a match online. Solder, profit.








I don't know what it is that's burnt, nor am I even aware of what it could be.

Think there's any money in trying to sell the screen itself ?


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what it is that's burnt, nor am I even aware of what it could be.
> 
> Think there's any money in trying to sell the screen itself ?


Whatever cooked is visible in that first picture.. It looks like the numbers would be easy to read with a better picture. It also looks like a super easy place to solder.

Get some better pictures of that burnt spot and we might be able to find a replacement


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Whatever cooked is visible in that first picture.. It looks like the numbers would be easy to read with a better picture. It also looks like a super easy place to solder.
> 
> Get some better pictures of that burnt spot and we might be able to find a replacement


My wording was poor. I wanted to say 'chip', but I kept doubting myself as I didn't know this could happen to a chip, I thought it had to be a transistor outside of a chip or a capacitor. Having looked again I guess this is a MOSFET ?

The pictures are more than adequate, you just have to open one up in a new tab and enlarge it to actual size.

http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c5/c5d7553f_1.jpeg

It's a moot point though, it's time for a new display.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Whatever cooked is visible in that first picture.. It looks like the numbers would be easy to read with a better picture. It also looks like a super easy place to solder.
> 
> Get some better pictures of that burnt spot and we might be able to find a replacement


It looks to say 330µF to me on the capacitor there that looks like it has burnt.
Should be an easy fix?

Also third pic, at the bottom, one capacitor looks like it has a bit of burn marks on the top too? Massive reflections so can't say for sure.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> It looks to say 330µF to me on the capacitor there that looks like it has burnt.
> Should be an easy fix?
> 
> Also third pic, at the bottom, one capacitor looks like it has a bit of burn marks on the top too? Massive reflections so can't say for sure.


It doesn't appear to be what's blown, the top mark just appears to be from a marker or something else.

Those pics were to focus on that chip that clearly burnt, the capacitor's don't appear burnt.

Can we at least establish that this was a MOSFET ? I'm clueless about this subject.

Edit

Found this on another forum about a blown MOSFET on a QX2710


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> My wording was poor. I wanted to say 'chip', but I kept doubting myself as I didn't know this could happen to a chip, I thought it had to be a transistor outside of a chip or a capacitor. Having looked again I guess this is a MOSFET ?
> 
> The pictures are more than adequate, you just have to open one up in a new tab and enlarge it to actual size.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c5/c5d7553f_1.jpeg
> 
> It's a moot point though, it's time for a new display.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


https://www.electronicspoint.com/threads/n-mosfet-replacement-on-qnix-lcd-monitor.277339/page-2

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/FQD19N10LTM/FQD19N10LTMCT-ND/3042602

Above are links to the fix, pictures, explanation, and a link to the part needed. This can be done with a heat gun, solder wick, flux, solder, and a soldering iron. Easy, worthy fix. This is a common issue with the PCB. The part listed above is a better part which will run cooler and last longer. A heat-sync could be added for extra protection.

If you're dead set on replacing the whole monitor then I suggest making your own post, you'll get more help.. This thread is for help related to the monitor you're looking to give up on.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> https://www.electronicspoint.com/threads/n-mosfet-replacement-on-qnix-lcd-monitor.277339/page-2
> 
> http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/FQD19N10LTM/FQD19N10LTMCT-ND/3042602
> 
> Above are links to the fix, pictures, explanation, and a link to the part needed. This can be done with a heat gun, solder wick, flux, solder, and a soldering iron. Easy, worthy fix. This is a common issue with the PCB. The part listed above is a better part which will run cooler and last longer. A heat-sync could be added for extra protection.
> 
> If you're dead set on replacing the whole monitor then I suggest making your own post, you'll get more help.. This thread is for help related to the monitor you're looking to give up on.


It just occurred to me that adding a heat sink could be a potential fix for those having problems when overclocking on 90+ hz. It could be a temperature issue.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> It just occurred to me that adding a heat sink could be a potential fix for those having problems when overclocking on 90+ hz. It could be a temperature issue.


It was only overclocked for a 10 minute period to test when I first got it


----------



## cboyd21

I have been using the Qnix QX2710 for months. I have been able to overclock to 110HZ out of the box with no issues. I tried 120HZ and it went to a color splash screen (blue, red, white, grey). Upon restart, it would usually revert to 80hz or 60hz. I tried a different cable the other day to see if I could hit 120hz with it and it went back to the color splash screen. Upon reboot, it went straight to the color splash screen and has been this way for three days. I cannot figure out how to revert to 60hz on boot. I can boot in safe mode but I cannot figure out how to reset my system so that it does not boot in 120hz. Let me know what other information I need to provide to help you guys help me


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cboyd21*
> 
> I have been using the Qnix QX2710 for months. I have been able to overclock to 110HZ out of the box with no issues. I tried 120HZ and it went to a color splash screen (blue, red, white, grey). Upon restart, it would usually revert to 80hz or 60hz. I tried a different cable the other day to see if I could hit 120hz with it and it went back to the color splash screen. Upon reboot, it went straight to the color splash screen and has been this way for three days. I cannot figure out how to revert to 60hz on boot. I can boot in safe mode but I cannot figure out how to reset my system so that it does not boot in 120hz. Let me know what other information I need to provide to help you guys help me


Download your latest GPU drivers in safe mode... Select "clean install" checkbox while installing. This will reset any custom resolutions. Are you using AMD or Nvidia? I know Nvidia has the clean install checkbox available when you select your installation options. AMD should have a similar option but maybe someone with an AMD card can chime in, I haven't used AMD GPU's in a few years.


----------



## Mnoordhof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Adapters/converters won't work with these displays, active or otherwise. You need a modern GPU capable of dual link DVI, most mobile GPU's aren't dual link. This information is clearly listed on the product description.There's nothing wrong with your monitor.


The guy from whom i bought it had it working with a displayport to dual-link adapter, so that definitely is possible.
I have researched a lot to find out if my mobile graphics card is capable of dual-link and i can't find it. On the other hand i can find specifications about max. resolution, and they suggest that 4k should work fine.
So 1440p should work as well.
Does anyone know a way to make this thing work? Because otherwise i think i will re-sell it or get my money back.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnoordhof*
> 
> The guy from whom i bought it had it working with a displayport to dual-link adapter, so that definitely is possible.
> I have researched a lot to find out if my mobile graphics card is capable of dual-link and i can't find it. On the other hand i can find specifications about max. resolution, and they suggest that 4k should work fine.
> So 1440p should work as well.
> Does anyone know a way to make this thing work? Because otherwise i think i will re-sell it or get my money back.


Your port MUST be labeled with a "++DP". If you do not see the "++", it is not dual-mode. If you only see "DP", you need an active adapter, which will not work with these monitors.


----------



## Mnoordhof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Your port MUST be labeled with a "++DP". If you do not see the "++", it is not dual-mode. If you only see "DP", you need an active adapter, which will not work with these monitors.


The port is labeled ++DP, so it should work, but as i said earlier i can't change the resolution settings in windows.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnoordhof*
> 
> The port is labeled ++DP, so it should work, but as i said earlier i can't change the resolution settings in windows.


Cool, then it is dual link compatible. Are you using an active adapter or a passive one?


----------



## Mnoordhof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Cool, then it is dual link compatible. Are you using an active adapter or a passive one?


I'm using this adapter, i think this is a passive one.


----------



## Death2Consoles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnoordhof*
> 
> I'm using this adapter, i think this is a passive one.


I can't be sure without the model number but all the ones I see on the "profigold" website show a max resolution of 1080p so I'd look into that.


----------



## koomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> Adapters/converters won't work with these displays, active or otherwise. You need a modern GPU capable of dual link DVI, most mobile GPU's aren't dual link. This information is clearly listed on the product description.There's nothing wrong with your monitor.


I had a similar question, not with connecting to a laptop, but if it's possible to use an adapter and still run at the higher OC refresh rates.

I'm currently using a 980 ti and a qnix 1440p monitor at 110hz refresh, and it works great. But here is my problem:

I've been patiently waiting for the 1080 ti announcement, and it finally came today! But to my great disappointment, Nvidia has removed DL-DVI from the card. Am I just out of luck?

Are there any adapters, active or otherwise, that will work to get 1440p above 60hz?


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koomba*
> 
> I had a similar question, not with connecting to a laptop, but if it's possible to use an adapter and still run at the higher OC refresh rates.
> 
> I'm currently using a 980 ti and a qnix 1440p monitor at 110hz refresh, and it works great. But here is my problem:
> 
> I've been patiently waiting for the 1080 ti announcement, and it finally came today! But to my great disappointment, Nvidia has removed DL-DVI from the card. Am I just out of luck?
> 
> Are there any adapters, active or otherwise, that will work to get 1440p above 60hz?


Wondering the same thing.

Nvidia apparently includes a DVI to DP adapter though so curious if that will work with OCing.


----------



## koomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> Wondering the same thing.
> 
> Nvidia apparently includes a DVI to DP adapter though so curious if that will work with OCing.


Yeah I know about the included adapter, but according to the Anandtech article it is most like a DP to SL-DVI adapter, NOT dual link.

I know that won't work because these monitors are DL-DVI anyways, but I know there are dual link adapters as well.

I tried to do a little research on the topic, and there are essentially 2 "tiers", for lack of a better word. There's some around the $30 mark, and then the others are more like $120.

Obviously we aren't going to find anyone who's tried it with a 1080 ti yet, but I'm hoping maybe someone here has done it with some other card.

I'm gonna be really disappointed if there is no way to remedy this. I just got my Korean OC IPS monitor like 6 months ago, and I really can't afford the acer/asus/etc name brand expensive versions.


----------



## Mnoordhof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Death2Consoles*
> 
> I can't be sure without the model number but all the ones I see on the "profigold" website show a max resolution of 1080p so I'd look into that.


I found a webshop that claimed that the max. resolution is 1200x1920 with behind it that it is displayport 1.1.
But there is no difference for cables from dp version 1.1. to 1.2 for short length cables. So if the adapter actually is dual link there can't be a problem.
I think the problem is in the software, because it detects a dual link monitor but can't change the resolution from 1080p to something else because that option is greyed out.
Does anyone have a workaround for this problem?


----------



## Yvese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koomba*
> 
> Yeah I know about the included adapter, but according to the Anandtech article it is most like a DP to SL-DVI adapter, NOT dual link.
> 
> I know that won't work because these monitors are DL-DVI anyways, but I know there are dual link adapters as well.
> 
> I tried to do a little research on the topic, and there are essentially 2 "tiers", for lack of a better word. There's some around the $30 mark, and then the others are more like $120.
> 
> Obviously we aren't going to find anyone who's tried it with a 1080 ti yet, but I'm hoping maybe someone here has done it with some other card.
> 
> I'm gonna be really disappointed if there is no way to remedy this. I just got my Korean OC IPS monitor like 6 months ago, and I really can't afford the acer/asus/etc name brand expensive versions.


What we can hope for is that a third party includes a DVI port.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yvese*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *koomba*
> 
> Yeah I know about the included adapter, but according to the Anandtech article it is most like a DP to SL-DVI adapter, NOT dual link.
> 
> I know that won't work because these monitors are DL-DVI anyways, but I know there are dual link adapters as well.
> 
> I tried to do a little research on the topic, and there are essentially 2 "tiers", for lack of a better word. There's some around the $30 mark, and then the others are more like $120.
> 
> Obviously we aren't going to find anyone who's tried it with a 1080 ti yet, but I'm hoping maybe someone here has done it with some other card.
> 
> I'm gonna be really disappointed if there is no way to remedy this. I just got my Korean OC IPS monitor like 6 months ago, and I really can't afford the acer/asus/etc name brand expensive versions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What we can hope for is that a third party includes a DVI port.
Click to expand...

THIS^^^^ ... If you trust the article, it looks like 3rd party has D-DVI port ... thank goodness!









*Source* ... MSI 1080Ti


----------



## hellenistic

Hey guys
Wondering if someone can help me, I bought one of these monitors a couple of years back and I was interested in seeing if any newer ones have come out and maybe buy one.
I remember buying from a website that was something like 2560x1440.com but I cant seem to find it anymore. Does that website still exist? if not anywhere else I can take a look? I'm from Australia so most US based websites don't ship.

cheers.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellenistic*
> 
> Hey guys
> Wondering if someone can help me, I bought one of these monitors a couple of years back and I was interested in seeing if any newer ones have come out and maybe buy one.
> I remember buying from a website that was something like 2560x1440.com but I cant seem to find it anymore. Does that website still exist? if not anywhere else I can take a look? I'm from Australia so most US based websites don't ship.
> 
> cheers.


I bought mine from that site (3 years ago) but seems they are no longer in business. Many alternative sellers on ebay. But do not go for the Qnix Q2710, its now a sub-par display with different panel and poor build quality (reflected in the much lower price).


----------



## Khovic

I think i just won the biggest lottery of them all ,
I ordered last week QX2710 dvi glossy from ebay, and it arrived today .
I discovered i got the L02 version(didn't know they still exist) and it overclocks to 120Hz easily.
Beside the very minor backlight bleed and 3 dead pixels around the edges (unnoticeable) its perfect .
Any one knows how do deal with the backlight bleed?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khovic*
> 
> I think i just won the biggest lottery of them all ,
> I ordered last week QX2710 dvi glossy from ebay, and it arrived today .
> I discovered i got the L02 version(didn't know they still exist) and it overclocks to 120Hz easily.
> Beside the very minor backlight bleed and 3 dead pixels around the edges (unnoticeable) its perfect .
> Any one knows how do deal with the backlight bleed?


You surely did win the lottery my man!!! ... let me know if you ever want to sell it








If in fact it is an L02 panel/setup, this should help you cure that BLB problem ... *see HERE*








Hope this helps. Let us know how it comes out ... do some before / after shots!
Edit: Who did you order from and how much?


----------



## koomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> THIS^^^^ ... If you trust the article, it looks like 3rd party has D-DVI port ... thank goodness!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Source* ... MSI 1080Ti


Oh wow lol I don't know why I didn't consider that. I just read the article and assumed they would all be like that.

Assuming that picture is accurate, then it looks like you're right. That just made my day lol.


----------



## Khovic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You surely did win the lottery my man!!! ... let me know if you ever want to sell it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If in fact it is an L02 panel/setup, this should help you cure that BLB problem ... *see HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps. Let us know how it comes out ... do some before / after shots!
> Edit: Who did you order from and how much?


I ended up just opening it myself and tinkering with the frame , I put some tape on the inside of the frame and bend it at some spots with pliers , seems to got rid of about 80% of the light bleed but there is still some , unfortunately i did it before i saw your post so no before \ after pictures but i might try again to get rid of the little blb i got left .
I ordered from this seller : http://www.ebay.com/itm/311424286891?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
and i ended up paying 125$ in taxes , which is absurd but still i'm pretty happy with the purchase.
I think i just got extremely lucky because i asked him about the panel being used and he said L07\L08 , not sure whats up with that but i'm sure happy he was wrong.

Just one last thing , i seem to have these kind of tiny darker spots on the screen (really hard to notice unless white background) and i wanted to know if its common and if there's a way to fix it , though i think i can live with it.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khovic*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> You surely did win the lottery my man!!! ... let me know if you ever want to sell it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If in fact it is an L02 panel/setup, this should help you cure that BLB problem ... *see HERE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps. Let us know how it comes out ... do some before / after shots!
> Edit: Who did you order from and how much?
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up just opening it myself and tinkering with the frame , I put some tape on the inside of the frame and bend it at some spots with pliers , seems to got rid of about 80% of the light bleed but there is still some , unfortunately i did it before i saw your post so no before \ after pictures but i might try again to get rid of the little blb i got left .
> I ordered from this seller : http://www.ebay.com/itm/311424286891?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> and i ended up paying 125$ in taxes , which is absurd but still i'm pretty happy with the purchase.
> I think i just got extremely lucky because i asked him about the panel being used and he said L07\L08 , not sure whats up with that but i'm sure happy he was wrong.
> 
> 
> Just one last thing , i seem to have these kind of tiny darker spots on the screen (really hard to notice unless white background) and i wanted to know if its common and if there's a way to fix it , though i think i can live with it.
Click to expand...

Not a problem I've seen with Samsung PLS ... Does it go away or diminish at 110/96Hz? If it does it's just very minor instability ... You might also experiment with different timings, some of which you'll find *HERE* ... last resort, maybe try a different cable, although I doubt that's the problem









Enjoy your panel! ... PQ wise (especially glossy) ... it still beats the heck out of the Acer/Asus $6-700 dollar offerings. I've had them both side by side with my Korean LG/Samsungs, and still wouldn't even consider them until they reach the $350-$400 range


----------



## winterkid09

For anyone who runs an AMD card and recently found themselves unable to keep their overclocking profile loaded, the most recent AMD driver version (17.2.1) causes EDID overrides to not load on boot. Your best bet is to install the 17.1.2 WHQL driver instead and attempt your overclock again.

A work around for being on 17.2.1 is to toggle GPU scaling in the AMD settings and the high refresh rate profile should load, but you'll have to do that on every boot.


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Have been using a Q2710 at 120 Hz for almost 2.5 years now. Was planning on upgrading to a 1070 GTX from a 680 GTX. Just wanted to know if there are any issues related to connecting to a Q2710.

Saw this in a review of 1070 GTX from techpowerup
Quote:


> Unlike previous NVIDIA cards, the DVI port no longer includes the analog signal, so you'll have to use an active adapter. NVIDIA also updated DisplayPort to be 1.2 certified and 1.3/1.4 ready, which enables support for 4K at 120 Hz and 5K @ 60 Hz, or 8K @ 60 Hz with two cables.


Can a Q2710 still run fine with a 1070 GTX ?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnie_gogs*
> 
> Have been using a Q2710 at 120 Hz for almost 2.5 years now. Was planning on upgrading to a 1070 GTX from a 680 GTX. Just wanted to know if there are any issues related to connecting to a Q2710.
> 
> Saw this in a review of 1070 GTX from techpowerup
> Can a Q2710 still run fine with a 1070 GTX ?


You don't need the analog signal. In fact, practically nothing uses it anymore.

That said, why 1070? 10 series is a huge disappointment. Absurd latency issues, poor relative performance with DX12 and Vulkan, etc. The only one that was ever worth buying was the 1080, and only because it was the only (non-stupid-taxtitan) option available for that performance level.

I'd grab a 480, and/or wait to see what the upcoming offerings from AMD/Nvidia can do and how they are priced. You can always keep the 680 in the system if you have any CUDA workloads or for games that use PhysX (although at that point the driver shenanigans might just make it worth finding a 980ti instead).


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> That said, why 1070? 10 series is a huge disappointment. Absurd latency issues, poor relative performance with DX12 and Vulkan, etc. The only one that was ever worth buying was the 1080, and only because it was the only (non-stupid-taxtitan) option available for that performance level.


You're the first person I hear say that. The 1070 is a killer card with no issues for the majority of its owners. "absurd latency issues??? *Evidence please*. "poor relative performance with DX12 and Vulkan, etc". Again, evidence required that points to the 1070 in particular affected by this (and not other Nvidia cards in select titles). *Doom* Vulkan was known to favor AMD cards. Hey, guess what, other games favor Nvidia just as well.

The 480 is not in the same tier of cards! You cant recommend a 480 for someone looking at 1070 level of performance.

Sorry to digress in the Qnix thread, but I tend to respond when my BS detector goes off.

p.s if you do reply, pls do so in Nvidia section.


----------



## kaiju

Yup, the 1070 is an amazing card, I'd get it too if it wasn't for the fact that I don't play games anymore.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> You're the first person I hear say that.


Your world sounds pretty myopic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> The 1070 is a killer card with no issues for the majority of its owners. "absurd latency issues??? *Evidence please*.


http://bfy.tw/AVtO
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> "poor relative performance with DX12 and Vulkan, etc".
> Again, evidence required that points to the 1070 in particular affected by this (and not other Nvidia cards in select titles).


The fact that older Nvidia cards have the same issue does not excuse the 10 series. If anything, it is even more damning. Previous generations could get away with it because they predated DX12 and Vulkan. Knowing the issue existed and still not addressing it in the 10 series is just a clear and plain failure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> *Doom* Vulkan was known to favor AMD cards. Hey, guess what, other games favor Nvidia just as well.


DOOM is far from the only title in which Nvidia's current offerings fail to take full advantage of DX12/Vulkan. The simple fact is current Nvidia offerings do not have full hardware support these new APIs.

This isn't a matter of games favoring AMD or Nvidia, but one of Nvidia failing to equip the 10 series cards for contemporary APIs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> The 480 is not in the same tier of cards! You cant recommend a 480 for someone looking at 1070 level of performance.


I never claimed the 480 performs the same as a 1070. It will however perform much better than his 680, while saving him money compared to the 1070, and avoiding the myriad of 10 series issues.

I also suggested the alternatives of waiting for future releases from either company (future AMD cards will offer the performance level he is looking for, future Nvidia cards will likely fix the issues found in the 10 series), or buying a 980ti (same performance as a 1070, cheaper (especially if used), no latency issues).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Sorry to digress in the Qnix thread, but I tend to respond when my BS detector goes off.


If you were actually sorry, you would have stopped typing, discarded your draft, and been on your merry way. Perhaps you might have moved your reply into a private message, if you still felt the need to reply at all. Instead, you typed out another line and hit submit.









Yeah, my BS detector still beeps too, and seems to be finer calibrated.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> p.s if you do reply, pls do so in Nvidia section.


I'll reply right here, in the thread containing the post I'm responding to. Why on earth would I reply in a completely different section (and thread)?


----------



## blued

No point in derailing the thread with unrelated topic. My response in the Nvidia section, 1070 thread where it belongs:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1601546/official-nvidia-gtx-1070-owners-club/8090


----------



## eoulim

Hi, guys.
I discovered qx2710 only recently and ordered following.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311424286891?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
It's samsung PLS, glossy with dual link dvi only.

Unfortunately, it has defective sub-pixels(green). dark instead of green.
probably hundreds spread over right side of screen like freckles.
maybe affected area is about 1/5 of screen.
It's not noticeable usually.
only if the screen has green color.

I'm wondering if this is typical quality of this item on the ebay.
or I'm unlucky and got an outlier?
Anybody order q2710 lately ?

Thanks.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eoulim*
> 
> Hi, guys.
> I discovered qx2710 only recently and ordered following.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/311424286891?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> It's samsung PLS, glossy with dual link dvi only.
> 
> Unfortunately, it has defective sub-pixels(green). dark instead of green.
> probably hundreds spread over right side of screen like freckles.
> maybe affected area is about 1/5 of screen.
> It's not noticeable usually.
> only if the screen has green color.
> 
> I'm wondering if this is typical quality of this item on the ebay.
> or I'm unlucky and got an outlier?
> Anybody order q2710 lately ?
> 
> Thanks.


I haven't bought one since they first hit the market, but none of the 3 I have seen have ever had any pixel issues whatsoever. 2/3 had pwm backlight (which technically isn't even a problem but whatever), 2/3 had some backlight bleed, 1/3 had a messed up stand and the panel was slightly shifted within its frame such that the bottom 3-4 rows of pixels were cut off until I fixed it, but all 3 have perfectly good panels.


----------



## ronnie_gogs

Thanks for the clarification for the DVI port @Zero4549

Regarding the 1070 or 480 as mentioned by @blued I would have to disagree as I consider 1070 to be a better card. Only time I preferred AMD was when I was mining and had 4 x 7970 mining crytocurrency.

Also I also have an Nvidia shield which I use quite a lot to stream games across to my living room to play directly which would not be possible with an AMD GPU.

My usage is mostly to play games, rendering of videos using adobe premiere and after effects. Bit of source film maker too.

I guess we have to agree to disagree here..


----------



## eoulim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I haven't bought one since they first hit the market, but none of the 3 I have seen have ever had any pixel issues whatsoever. 2/3 had pwm backlight (which technically isn't even a problem but whatever), 2/3 had some backlight bleed, 1/3 had a messed up stand and the panel was slightly shifted within its frame such that the bottom 3-4 rows of pixels were cut off until I fixed it, but all 3 have perfectly good panels.


thanks for a reply.
i might try order another one, returning current one.
i'm using a hdmi-to-dvi adapter.
could it be the source of problem?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eoulim*
> 
> thanks for a reply.
> i might try order another one, returning current one.
> i'm using a hdmi-to-dvi adapter.
> could it be the source of problem?


Could be if the adapter is defective or really poorly made, but otherwise no that shouldn't cause the issue you describe.


----------



## Khovic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Not a problem I've seen with Samsung PLS ... Does it go away or diminish at 110/96Hz? If it does it's just very minor instability ... You might also experiment with different timings, some of which you'll find *HERE* ... last resort, maybe try a different cable, although I doubt that's the problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy your panel! ... PQ wise (especially glossy) ... it still beats the heck out of the Acer/Asus $6-700 dollar offerings. I've had them both side by side with my Korean LG/Samsungs, and still wouldn't even consider them until they reach the $350-$400 range


Thanks man , will try next week when I get the time.
If anyone's interested I'll post pictures of the process.


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Thinking of just buying the same display I had.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH3Y42877&cm_re=qnix-_-9SIA4JH3Y42877-_-Product

I see this disclaimer
Quote:


> Note: If you use a cable converter or gender such as a DVI-to-HDMI cable to connect your PC with the monitor, the monitor may not be able to output images at all (or output images at a bad quality). You should use a direct cable such as a DVI-to-DVI cable.


I lost my only DL DVI port when I RMA'd my old card and got a 980 Ti in return.

Would this be an actual issue ?


----------



## BitsandBytez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Thinking of just buying the same display I had.
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH3Y42877&cm_re=qnix-_-9SIA4JH3Y42877-_-Product
> 
> I see this disclaimer
> I lost my only DL DVI port when I RMA'd my old card and got a 980 Ti in return.
> 
> Would this be an actual issue ?


When I first got this screen I connected it with a single link DVI cable and it only output coloured lines all over the screen, switched to a DL-DVI cable and it displayed correctly


----------



## Ascii Aficionado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BitsandBytez*
> 
> When I first got this screen I connected it with a single link DVI cable and it only output coloured lines all over the screen, switched to a DL-DVI cable and it displayed correctly


Below is what I wanted to quote, I Was just doing too much multitasking and didn't add the text.
Quote:


> If you use a cable converter or gender such as a DVI-to-HDMI cable to connect your PC with the monitor, the monitor may not be able to output images at all (or output images at a bad quality). You should use a direct cable such as a DVI-to-DVI cable.


Well yeah, single link doesn't have the required bandwidth.

My question was why can't I just use a DP to DL-DVI cable, unless that disclaimer is just there to help prevent people from claiming any issues they're having due to cables.


----------



## genriquez

Hi, first time poster. I recently picked up a GTX 1080ti founders edition and am having issues with my x-star. I'm relatively novice to displays, so please bear with me

Previous config: SLI GTX760, working no issues

After switching to the 1080ti, using NVIDIA's DP to DVI adapter, nothing would come on screen and just flashed through RGBW colors
After googling a bit this blog said to pick up and recommended an active DP to DVI adapter
I received it today and hooked it up and it started to display (hooray), but horizontal vertical lines all over the place, including at bootup/load screens and windows (like this)
Once it gets to windows it seemed to calm down, but the second I moved a chrome window or folder window it starts again
I was able to install and update drivers, but its remains unusable with these horizontal lines and sometimes just completely almost blacks out the screen
I'm using a dual link DVI-D cable (from work, no idea of maker), connected to the mentioned active DP to DVI adapter. I'm hoping its the cable. AFAIK the monitor is running at 60hz atm and I can't set it above to 96hz since it fails the test in cru utility and nvidia control panel.

Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks internets

update: This is probably already know here from older posts, but I found another nvidia forum post having the same issues. I used CRU to set frequency to 60Hz, restarted gfx, reinstalled drivers, and it seems to be stable now, but I'm still seeing occasional horizontal lines. So I'm guessing the (lame) solution is to set pixel clock < 330 Mhz during boot and before shutting down every time

update #2: after rebooting even under 330 MHz, it had issues again. To resolve I had to:

Set monitor to 30Hz
Change resolution to 1080
Set monitor to 60Hz
Change resolution to 1440
I have no idea why that order matters, but if I skipped changing to 1080 it wouldn't do anything


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genriquez*
> 
> Hi, first time poster. I recently picked up a GTX 1080ti founders edition and am having issues with my x-star. I'm relatively novice to displays, so please bear with me
> 
> Previous config: SLI GTX760, working no issues
> 
> After switching to the 1080ti, using NVIDIA's DP to DVI adapter, nothing would come on screen and just flashed through RGBW colors
> After googling a bit this blog said to pick up and recommended an active DP to DVI adapter
> I received it today and hooked it up and it started to display (hooray), but horizontal vertical lines all over the place, including at bootup/load screens and windows (like this)
> Once it gets to windows it seemed to calm down, but the second I moved a chrome window or folder window it starts again
> I was able to install and update drivers, but its remains unusable with these horizontal lines and sometimes just completely almost blacks out the screen
> I'm using a dual link DVI-D cable (from work, no idea of maker), connected to the mentioned active DP to DVI adapter. I'm hoping its the cable. AFAIK the monitor is running at 60hz atm and I can't set it above to 96hz since it fails the test in cru utility and nvidia control panel.
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks internets
> 
> update: This is probably already know here from older posts, but I found another nvidia forum post having the same issues. I used CRU to set frequency to 60Hz, restarted gfx, reinstalled drivers, and it seems to be stable now, but I'm still seeing occasional horizontal lines. So I'm guessing the (lame) solution is to set pixel clock < 330 Mhz during boot and before shutting down every time
> 
> update #2: after rebooting even under 330 MHz, it had issues again. To resolve I had to:
> 
> Set monitor to 30Hz
> Change resolution to 1080
> Set monitor to 60Hz
> Change resolution to 1440
> I have no idea why that order matters, but if I skipped changing to 1080 it wouldn't do anything


I found I needed to get a new monitor.
I need over 60Hz and apprently these monitors are useless with the new GPUs without DVI.


----------



## WaffleBot9000

Hey everyone, I have a problem with my qx2710. I have a triple monitor setup all 3 are qx2710's. I was playing a game and my main (center) monitor went black. Now the light just blinks blue. When I unplug from power and re-plug the light continues to blink blue. I tried switching power bricks, tried different dvi cables and same results. Not sure if pcb board needs replacing, figured id ask for help here maybe someone has experienced this once and knew how to fix it.


----------



## eoulim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I haven't bought one since they first hit the market, but none of the 3 I have seen have ever had any pixel issues whatsoever. 2/3 had pwm backlight (which technically isn't even a problem but whatever), 2/3 had some backlight bleed, 1/3 had a messed up stand and the panel was slightly shifted within its frame such that the bottom 3-4 rows of pixels were cut off until I fixed it, but all 3 have perfectly good panels.


I went ahead and ordered another one. This time this samsung pls qx2710 has no defective pixel what so ever.
Thanks for your tips.
Only thing would be it has pretty bad backlight bleeding but I guess this quality expected with this monitor?
And what do you mean by pwm backlight and how do i know if i have it?
Thanks.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eoulim*
> 
> I went ahead and ordered another one. This time this samsung pls qx2710 has no defective pixel what so ever.
> Thanks for your tips.
> Only thing would be it has pretty bad backlight bleeding but I guess this quality expected with this monitor?
> And what do you mean by pwm backlight and how do i know if i have it?
> Thanks.


Backlight bleed is expected yeah. If you have any really bad spots along the edges, it is probably from uneven pressure on the panel from the bezel and you could probably mitigate it by opening it and adjusting the way it sits in the bezel. There are some guides on that on the first post in this thread.

PWM backlighting is when the brightness of the backlight is adjusted by PWM signal instead of direct voltage control. Some people are sensitive to the strobe effect of PWM backlighting and will get eyestrain/headaches from it. A quick and dirty test would be to turn the brightness down fairly low and point a camcorder / your smartphone video camera at it. If the camera picks up that old CRT flashing monitor effect you have probably seen in old videos, you have PWM backlighting. If you just see a nice clean picture, you have voltage controlled backlighting.


----------



## eoulim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Backlight bleed is expected yeah. If you have any really bad spots along the edges, it is probably from uneven pressure on the panel from the bezel and you could probably mitigate it by opening it and adjusting the way it sits in the bezel. There are some guides on that on the first post in this thread.
> 
> PWM backlighting is when the brightness of the backlight is adjusted by PWM signal instead of direct voltage control. Some people are sensitive to the strobe effect of PWM backlighting and will get eyestrain/headaches from it. A quick and dirty test would be to turn the brightness down fairly low and point a camcorder / your smartphone video camera at it. If the camera picks up that old CRT flashing monitor effect you have probably seen in old videos, you have PWM backlighting. If you just see a nice clean picture, you have voltage controlled backlighting.


Thanks. I don't think I have it on this qnix monitor. my old samsung panel does have it.
Interesting thing is the test result is opposite if i use my phone's photo camera instead of phone's video camera.


----------



## shzero0

Will an active displayport to dual-link DVI power an OC'd QNIX QX2710?

I am thinking to get a GPU with only displayports and if I get an active displayport to dual-link DVI, could it power my monitor at 1440p @ 96hz? Thank you!









I am speaking of an adapter as such: http://www.ebay.com/itm/StarTech-DP2DVID-Display-Port-to-DVI-Dual-Link-Active-Video-Converter-INV-N84-/132089668874?hash=item1ec128650a:g:cfsAAOSw4DJYmlR8


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shzero0*
> 
> Will an active displayport to dual-link DVI power an OC'd QNIX QX2710?
> 
> I am thinking to get a GPU with only displayports and if I get an active displayport to dual-link DVI, could it power my monitor at 1440p @ 96hz? Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am speaking of an adapter as such: http://www.ebay.com/itm/StarTech-DP2DVID-Display-Port-to-DVI-Dual-Link-Active-Video-Converter-INV-N84-/132089668874?hash=item1ec128650a:g:cfsAAOSw4DJYmlR8


http://www.overclock.net/t/1626174/will-an-active-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-power-an-ocd-qnix-qx2710/0_50


----------



## Some Tech Nub

So I ended up having to open up my QNIX QX2710 to fix one of the vesa standoffs which broke off when I was tightening it to my vesa mount. Mine is nearing 2 years of lovely usage - I ordered a Pixel Perfect from AccessoriesWhole back in late April 2015.

On the front of the panel's metal frame, it's etched ltm270dl02, but the back has a sticker which lists ltm270dl06. I'm assuming this is a -06 panel then? Mine still has a decent amount of backlight bleed, but I'm not confident enough to completely remove the LCD assembly out of the monitor.

Anyways, I'm glad to know I got one of the last monitors with the 02/06 panel. There were reports flowing in of a new panel being used right when I ordered.


----------



## Khovic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khovic*
> 
> Thanks man , will try next week when I get the time.
> If anyone's interested I'll post pictures of the process.


Alright I virtually eliminated all backlight bleed by straightening the metal frame, i have slightly uneven color (darker parts) but its only visible against a uniform background and seems to mostly go away at a lower refresh rate (~100 or so)but that could be just the difference in brightness making them less noticeable .
I still keep the monitor at 120Hz and I can't notice any problems unless i'm actively searching for them .
Would recommend for people who don't mind opening it up a few times to fix blb.

Big thanks to TomcatV,
Your help is much appreciated.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

How do you "straighten" the metal frame? Bend it and the compare against a straight edge? I honestly have no clue haha.


----------



## Khovic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> How do you "straighten" the metal frame? Bend it and the compare against a straight edge? I honestly have no clue haha.


Pretty much yes, I just put it on my kitchen table and used pliers \ my hands until it was not wobbling anymore on the table(it did before)


----------



## banana4life

So the known method is to take off the metal frame and stick electrical tape on the under side, so its on the inside. I think, I cant find any clear steps (link if I've missed :-( )

But as you can see I still have backlight bleed with dark patches on the screen. It seems then that the tape hasnt worked? Have I done it wrong? Massaging the screen doesnt seem to work with a cloth. Is that all to try?

Thanks


----------



## josephytakagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *banana4life*
> 
> ]But as you can see I still have backlight bleed with dark patches on the screen. It seems then that the tape hasnt worked? Have I done it wrong? Massaging the screen doesnt seem to work with a cloth. Is that all to try?


I don't really remember the process, but you may try bending that metal frame out slightly. I assume the frame is pinching the screen too tightly and causing bleed. Sorry it was a long time ago, but I do remember doing my best to straighten out the metal frame. Be gentle, it's easy to chase your tail/make it worse by being too aggressive/impatient when bending.


----------



## RPierce

Alright guys, I ordered two of these, and realized that they only have the DVI out. I need something with HDMI or Display port. And prefer a Korean that I can overclock







Im running a 1080ti card.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RPierce*
> 
> Alright guys, I ordered two of these, and realized that they only have the DVI out. I need something with HDMI or Display port. And prefer a Korean that I can overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im running a 1080ti card.


No high overclocking unless it's a single input DVI-D model. That is the drawback. No adapters either because active adapters that can handle 96hz+ are far and few between. And expensive. You are better off looking elsewhere if you do not have enough dvi ports.


----------



## RPierce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> No high overclocking unless it's a single input DVI-D model. That is the drawback. No adapters either because active adapters that can handle 96hz+ are far and few between. And expensive. You are better off looking elsewhere if you do not have enough dvi ports.


Yeah, I came to that realization. Ended up ordering an Asus MG278Q. I didn't want to fork over the extra 150.00 for an IPS, so TN it is. Since new cards are phasing out the DVI ports, these Korean monitors will go by the wayside IMO. Hated to spend the extra money, but what do yah do?


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RPierce*
> 
> Yeah, I came to that realization. Ended up ordering an Asus MG278Q. I didn't want to fork over the extra 150.00 for an IPS, so TN it is. Since new cards are phasing out the DVI ports, these Korean monitors will go by the wayside IMO. Hated to spend the extra money, but what do yah do?


I have a Monoprice 1440p 144hz TN freesync which I believe uses the same panel(since they all come from au optronics) as well as a QX2710. The colors are surprisingly good for a TN. I think you'll like the Asus.


----------



## panosxidis

Windows 10 Creators update has a problem Monitor driver for qnix qx2710


----------



## arh2o

Yea there's an issue with Windows 10 Creators Update and the QNIX monitor driver linked in the OP here: http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23568

Basically, once you reboot into 'disable enforcement of unsigned driver', and try to install the monitor driver as usual, it gives an error message. Not sure if Nvidia's newest drivers are part of this issue. Anyone running an AMD GPU with Creators Update and can't install the monitor driver as well?


----------



## ptys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *panosxidis*
> 
> Windows 10 Creators update has a problem Monitor driver for qnix qx2710


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arh2o*
> 
> Yea there's an issue with Windows 10 Creators Update and the QNIX monitor driver linked in the OP here: http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23568
> 
> Basically once you reboot into disable enforcement of unsigned driver, and try to install the monitor driver as usual, it gives an error message.


I also have this problem


----------



## Robot26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arh2o*
> 
> Yea there's an issue with Windows 10 Creators Update and the QNIX monitor driver linked in the OP here: http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23568
> 
> Basically, once you reboot into 'disable enforcement of unsigned driver', and try to install the monitor driver as usual, it gives an error message. Not sure if Nvidia's newest drivers are part of this issue. Anyone running an AMD GPU with Creators Update and can't install the monitor driver as well?


Same here, this will be a problem for everyone on the 11th as that's when the creator's update goes out for everyone.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robot26*
> 
> Same here, this will be a problem for everyone on the 11th as that's when the creator's update goes out for everyone.


Well... everyone who doesn't know how to set group policies.

Here I am still enjoying build 1151. 1607 was a major bust. I was hoping to upgrade 1704 with its nice list of improvements, but between all the display related bugs and the still-not-fixed start menu I think I'll wait it out for a while and hope things get resolved. If I have to stick with 1151 until I build a new system next year, so be it.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

I haven't had to install the monitor driver personally. What's it for again? I can't recall.


----------



## Robot26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> I haven't had to install the monitor driver personally. What's it for again? I can't recall.


It's for those with Nvidia cards to overclock their monitor. Anyone know who made the monitor driver so we can contact them?


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robot26*
> 
> It's for those with Nvidia cards to overclock their monitor. Anyone know who made the monitor driver so we can contact them?


I just set a custom resolution in nvidia control panel and it worked for me.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RPierce*
> 
> Alright guys, I ordered two of these, and realized that they only have the DVI out. I need something with HDMI or Display port. And prefer a Korean that I can overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im running a 1080ti card.


You won't find an adpator that can do 1440p over 60Hz - if you do, let us know.
But I've looked and bought three different adaptors from $30 to $120.
I couldn't get DVI to Displayport over 60Hz with 1440p


----------



## RPierce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> You won't find an adpator that can do 1440p over 60Hz - if you do, let us know.
> But I've looked and bought three different adaptors from $30 to $120.
> I couldn't get DVI to Displayport over 60Hz with 1440p


I found that out in my research. So I decided not to take the chance and bought an Asus ROG MQ278


----------



## Khovic

After working pretty much flawlessly for the last 60 days or so, i noticed two problems im having with my QX2710,
The first being that there is some sort of burn-in on the screen that goes away after a few minutes , it happens only at the top right corner of the screen, only thing that change AFAIK is the fact i formatted my pc and now using different drivers (catalyst 17.4.2) .
second is , could it be that my L02 uses PWM dimming? when i turn the brightness down i can see horizontal lines using my phone cam, it doesn't really bother me but im afraid its not an actual L02 panel.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khovic*
> 
> After working pretty much flawlessly for the last 60 days or so, i noticed two problems im having with my QX2710,
> The first being that there is some sort of burn-in on the screen that goes away after a few minutes , it happens only at the top right corner of the screen, only thing that change AFAIK is the fact i formatted my pc and now using different drivers (catalyst 17.4.2) .
> second is , could it be that my L02 uses PWM dimming? when i turn the brightness down i can see horizontal lines using my phone cam, it doesn't really bother me but im afraid its not an actual L02 panel.


Unfortunately not all L02 panels were PWM free, so it is quite possible your L02 is using PWM ...








Lets just hope you are not as sensitive to PWM like I am ... Being highly sensitive to PWM is really not as common as one would think ... If you have been PWM symptom free, then the real battle for you will be psychological, in knowing it is there at lower brightness settings, just learn to ignore it and go on enjoying your OC'd panel


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Are L06 panels PWM free then? Or is it the same story as the L02 - some are and some aren't?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> Are L06 panels PWM free then? Or is it the same story as the L02 - some are and some aren't?


I don't recall anyone finding the L06 with PWM, but there are far fewer L06's out there than L02/L07's ...

On another note has anyone found a workaround for installing the QNIX monitor driver after the Win10 Creators update? I'm dreading when I'll finally have to give in, right now I have my updates on lockdown ... may need to do some research over at ...

1) ToastyX (driver creator) @ *THIS* site ...

2) Or maybe NCX (MenacingTuba) @ *THIS* site ...


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I don't recall anyone finding the L06 with PWM, but there are far fewer L06's out there than L02/L07's ...
> 
> On another note has anyone found a workaround for installing the QNIX monitor driver after the Win10 Creators update? I'm dreading when I'll finally have to give in, right now I have my updates on lockdown ... may need to do some research over at ...
> 
> 1) ToastyX (driver creator) @ *THIS* site ...
> 
> 2) Or maybe NCX (MenacingTuba) @ *THIS* site ...


Guess I got lucky. Bought a pixel perfect 2 years ago, but just opened it up recently to fix a loose vesa mount and the sticker said I had a L06. Panel was stamped with L02 though...

FWIW I have a GTX 980. I just set the refresh rate in NvCP and had my monitor running at 96hz no problem after the CU. Didn't use the driver at all.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I don't recall anyone finding the L06 with PWM, but there are far fewer L06's out there than L02/L07's ...
> 
> On another note has anyone found a workaround for installing the QNIX monitor driver after the Win10 Creators update? I'm dreading when I'll finally have to give in, right now I have my updates on lockdown ... may need to do some research over at ...
> 
> 1) ToastyX (driver creator) @ *THIS* site ...
> 
> 2) Or maybe NCX (MenacingTuba) @ *THIS* site ...


Yeah same here. As soon as I heard about this I disabled everything related to windows update. I've been tolerant of it even though it always caused minor issues such as drivers messing up and autoupdating my gpu drivers when I don't want to. But this time I draw a line.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> I don't recall anyone finding the L06 with PWM, but there are far fewer L06's out there than L02/L07's ...
> 
> On another note has anyone found a workaround for installing the QNIX monitor driver after the Win10 Creators update? I'm dreading when I'll finally have to give in, right now I have my updates on lockdown ... may need to do some research over at ...
> 
> 1) ToastyX (driver creator) @ *THIS* site ...
> 
> 2) Or maybe NCX (MenacingTuba) @ *THIS* site ...


Just found out about this, ugh!

Is there anything we can do like sending a bug report to Microsoft in hopes they fix whatever was broken?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Just found out about this, ugh!
> 
> Is there anything we can do like sending a bug report to Microsoft in hopes they fix whatever was broken?


Chances are it is either intentionally broken, or it is something they will deliberately ignore once they discover. It only effects hardware that requires drivers that haven't passed through MS's WHQL process. MS obviously would rather force you into using products they get paid for and have update authority over.


----------



## Zen00

Kind of surprised this thread is still alive considering the mods seem to be killing any large threads lately for performance.


----------



## Grotlo

Hey guys,

Can someone please post here if they find a new driver for QNIX monitor after the Win10 Creators update.... We are unable to use the old driver anymore... #ucking windows and their corporate bull$it.... I'm so #ucking mad....

Thanks in advance and apologies for the rant.......... It is really annoying...


----------



## ToastyX

Nobody even told me about the .inf file issue. The files were missing a parameter that wasn't required before. It was a simple fix.

Try these: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Catleap-QNIX-Tempest-X-Star-monitor-inf-files

You still have to disable driver signature enforcement to install them, but they should work with the Creators Update now.


----------



## Grotlo

You da king good sir!

TY VERY MUCH!


----------



## arh2o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Nobody even told me about the .inf file issue. The files were missing a parameter that wasn't required before. It was a simple fix.
> 
> Try these: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Catleap-QNIX-Tempest-X-Star-monitor-inf-files
> 
> You still have to disable driver signature enforcement to install them, but they should work with the Creators Update now.


Toasty, thank you SO MUCH!!!!!!


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Nobody even told me about the .inf file issue. The files were missing a parameter that wasn't required before. It was a simple fix.
> 
> Try these: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Catleap-QNIX-Tempest-X-Star-monitor-inf-files
> 
> You still have to disable driver signature enforcement to install them, but they should work with the Creators Update now.


AWESOME! ... You've been a very influential innovator/contributor over the years! ... +R









As I haven't updated to W10 Creators yet ... and just in case the Cat2B/Overlord driver runs into the same problem maybe you could take a look at it also? ....

OverlordDriver.zip 1k .zip file


I can't find my original copy of the Cat2B driver (basically the same as Overlord) and Scribby hasn't been around forever, but if you have one (updated?) I'll leave it in the Cat2B thread *HERE* ...









Never expected to keep my Korean 120Hz panels this long. But when I tested the Asus/Acer 144Hz side by side with their *non-glossy*, HORRID picture quality and uniformity ... I suspect I'll have them until OLED becomes a viable/mainstream alternative









Thanks again Toasty ... you are the Man!


----------



## Grotlo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Nobody even told me about the .inf file issue. The files were missing a parameter that wasn't required before. It was a simple fix.
> 
> Try these: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Catleap-QNIX-Tempest-X-Star-monitor-inf-files
> 
> You still have to disable driver signature enforcement to install them, but they should work with the Creators Update now.


Quick question ToastyX,

I have followed your instructions to the letter. After disabling driver signature enforcement I was able to install the newly provider .inf file above.

Problem that I have is once I create custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel, The refresh rate on my Qnix does change to 96, but it does not show in the Windows display settings as previously when I was on Windows 10 (Non Creators Update).

Due to it not showing in the Windows Display settings 96Hz profile also doesn't show in World of Tanks game graphics menu even though driver in Windows Display settings is not Generic PnP, but Qx2710.

I got no clue why Windows 10 Creators Edition does not recognize Nvidia Control Panel custom resolution settings.... Currently using latest hotfix driver from Nvidia 381.78 and a Gigabyte GTX 980ti G1...

Again this all used to work flawlessly on the previous version of Windows 10....

Hope you got ideas on this weird issue









Grotlo


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Running the Windows CU update with my QNIX QX2710 and GTX 980 on the latest nvidia driver. Set it to 96hz in nvidia control panel and it shows up in windows as well. Don't have the driver installed either.


----------



## Grotlo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grotlo*
> 
> Quick question ToastyX,
> 
> I have followed your instructions to the letter. After disabling driver signature enforcement I was able to install the newly provider .inf file above.
> 
> Problem that I have is once I create custom resolution in Nvidia Control Panel, The refresh rate on my Qnix does change to 96, but it does not show in the Windows display settings as previously when I was on Windows 10 (Non Creators Update).
> 
> Due to it not showing in the Windows Display settings 96Hz profile also doesn't show in World of Tanks game graphics menu even though driver in Windows Display settings is not Generic PnP, but Qx2710.
> 
> I got no clue why Windows 10 Creators Edition does not recognize Nvidia Control Panel custom resolution settings.... Currently using latest hotfix driver from Nvidia 381.78 and a Gigabyte GTX 980ti G1...
> 
> Again this all used to work flawlessly on the previous version of Windows 10....
> 
> Hope you got ideas on this weird issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grotlo


NVM it works!

I rebooted PC and now Windows Display Settings show 96Hz profile HOOORAY!

So I don't know why but after making custom resolution in NvCP we got to reboot in order for the profile to be recognized by windows I guess.

Cheers!


----------



## Khovic

I incorporated 96hz ,110hz, 120hz, profiles(from lawson67's old driver) into ToastyX's updated driver ,
So if you want a slightly easier monitor overclocking without using CRU you should try it. Driver patching still required.
Here are the Link :

Driver only :
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1oA5fYx-gIEMDY3YlhVZUdSOFU

AMD Pack ( Including driver , AMD Patcher , And my preferred ICC profile for 120Hz) :
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1oA5fYx-gIEUjBqYXBKN2VjbUE

Works perfectly @120Hz on my setup :
QX2710 L02
XFX R9 390X
Using the DVI cable that came with the monitor.

Big thanks to ToastyX and lawson67 for providing the original inf files.


----------



## Scotty99

Can someone link me the samsung model that uses this panel?

Thanks.


----------



## Seafodder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Nobody even told me about the .inf file issue. The files were missing a parameter that wasn't required before. It was a simple fix.
> 
> Try these: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Catleap-QNIX-Tempest-X-Star-monitor-inf-files
> 
> You still have to disable driver signature enforcement to install them, but they should work with the Creators Update now.


Thanks for the link, Toasty! Would have saved myself some gnashing of teeth if I'd looked here before letting MicroShat jack with my computer again in the name of "progress".


----------



## Clouded Sun

I'm actually having a pretty strange occurrence on my X-Star DP 2710.

I can get my monitor to overclock to 110hz using Nvidia Control Panel and the patching exploit, but whenever it is, I notice a strange purple hue on the right side of my screen. It's not that noticeable most of the time, but when I'm running videos and games, it sometimes shows up as a random band (anywhere on the very left of the monitor) or sometimes a reflection of what's displayed elsewhere on the screen.

EDIT: I turned the refresh rate down to 100hz and the band is gone. I guess 10 FPS won't be a huge difference in games' performance. To anyone having this issue, try to underclock your monitor to see if it works again.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clouded Sun*
> 
> I'm actually having a pretty strange occurrence on my X-Star DP 2710.
> 
> I can get my monitor to overclock to 110hz using Nvidia Control Panel and the patching exploit, but whenever it is, I notice a strange purple hue on the right side of my screen. It's not that noticeable most of the time, but when I'm running videos and games, it sometimes shows up as a random band (anywhere on the very left of the monitor) or sometimes a reflection of what's displayed elsewhere on the screen.
> 
> EDIT: I turned the refresh rate down to 100hz and the band is gone. I guess 10 FPS won't be a huge difference in games' performance. To anyone having this issue, try to underclock your monitor to see if it works again.


My QX2710 can reach 110hz but some minir artifacts begin to show up if you pixel peep. Turned it down to 96hz and its been great for the past 2 years.


----------



## Remizon

Hi all!
I have a QNIX QX2710 which I scratched yesterday, have anyone here any idea how to hide the scratch?
Its not a deep one, I tried different scratch removers with no success








I relly like this monitor and I really dont want it to go because of this scratch....


----------



## HD5830Gamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*
> 
> Hi all!
> I have a QNIX QX2710 which I scratched yesterday, have anyone here any idea how to hide the scratch?
> Its not a deep one, I tried different scratch removers with no success
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I relly like this monitor and I really dont want it to go because of this scratch....


You could try removing the AG coating, I did it with my QNIX and it worked fine. Had it for 1 full year now and no issues.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1216559/how-to-remove-anti-glare-coating-from-a-dell-u2312hm-monitor-and-others


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HD5830Gamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rammoshe*
> 
> Hi all!
> I have a QNIX QX2710 which I scratched yesterday, have anyone here any idea how to hide the scratch?
> Its not a deep one, I tried different scratch removers with no success
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I relly like this monitor and I really dont want it to go because of this scratch....
> 
> 
> 
> You could try removing the AG coating, I did it with my QNIX and it worked fine. Had it for 1 full year now and no issues.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1216559/how-to-remove-anti-glare-coating-from-a-dell-u2312hm-monitor-and-others
Click to expand...

That's a heck of a good idea! ... +R to you









PLUS Rammoshe will now have one of the "Coveted" True Glossy panels!


----------



## Sempre

Honestly this is one of my best purchases ever. Bought it in 2013 and it's still going strong. Hopefully within a couple of years a Korean variant of 4k 144hz FALD monitors come out so we can re-live this amazing cycle once again.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Only sure way is to open it up ... but just check for PWM, if it is not present, it's more likely an L02 AND highly sought after by people in the know!.
> Q
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> uick check for PWM is open your camera feature on your smartphone, in the display screen you hopefully won't see the slow pulsating grey bands like the monitor on the right below ...
> 
> 
> 
> More info *HERE* ...


I do have the PWM lines. oh well, never really noticed this before.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Only sure way is to open it up ... but just check for PWM, if it is not present, it's more likely an L02 AND highly sought after by people in the know!.
> Q
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> uick check for PWM is open your camera feature on your smartphone, in the display screen you hopefully won't see the slow pulsating grey bands like the monitor on the right below ...
> 
> 
> 
> More info *HERE* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have the PWM lines. oh well, never really noticed this before.
Click to expand...

You probably have an L07 panel (newer) ... BUT for most, and like yourself, PWM isn't an issue, but for some of us (me) it's a big issue, plus I see additional "blurring" in fast paced FPS ... Also you might have not noticed it because your running at a 80% or higher brightness level which can alleviate some of the effect









When you go to sell it, I'd mention it. If someone is not sure if they have PWM sensitivity (many don't), someone like me would notice it within 10-15min, for others the "fatigue" (sometimes headaches) will develop after a couple of hours of straight gaming.


----------



## bluedevil

If you guys didn't know...

best images for websites


----------



## Zen00

That's the model with PWM, FYI.

Worth a buy if that doesn't bother you. I got one 1.5 years ago. Clocks up to 110, I usually keep it at 96. I think I could get it to 120 Hz if I knew how to fiddle with the settings on the OC software better. I should buy a second one for my second monitor.


----------



## gonsa

Hi guys,

After the Windows 10 Creators Update I can't set the refresh rate of the monitor to my desire.
Previously I created a custom resolution and refresh rate through the nvidia control panel and then would go to the display adapter settings in windows and set it.
Now I create a custom resolution and refresh rate but then when I go to the display adapter settings in windows I don't have the new refresh rate available to select. This is the first time that is happening. I can only assume it was from the creators update.
Could anyone help me?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gonsa*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> After the Windows 10 Creators Update I can't set the refresh rate of the monitor to my desire.
> Previously I created a custom resolution and refresh rate through the nvidia control panel and then would go to the display adapter settings in windows and set it.
> Now I create a custom resolution and refresh rate but then when I go to the display adapter settings in windows I don't have the new refresh rate available to select. This is the first time that is happening. I can only assume it was from the creators update.
> Could anyone help me?


Got to run out the door, a date with the big spring runoff whitewater day (Avatar) ...
Quickly, try installing the new monitor driver ToastyX provided a few pages back (W10 see's your monitor as a generic 60Hz model) ... do a clean install of the latest Nvidia drivers, many of the 144Hz crowd has said that driver has fixed a lot of their monitor problems!









Found it, here's Toasty's latest monitor driver ...

QNIX2710newW10driver.zip 2k .zip file


EDIT: @gonsa VVVV ... Glad it worked out for you and my apologies for not including my "FAQ" txt file for install instructions and why you want windows to recognize your monitor ... FIXED above







... try it again as it is strange Windows isn't recognizing the proper name?


----------



## gonsa

Thank you. Somehow it worked.
windows didn't accept the driver, it said drive signature error. I googled how to disable the driver signature in windows and after a reboot the 96Hz showed up. It's still Generic Monitor but the refresh rate is there.

Thank you for your help


----------



## shadoom

im using switchresx on macOS 10.12 but I cant seem to do a custom resolution.
it always says in switchresX "not activated - invalid?"

does anyone know why?


----------



## Plonide

Another Qnix monitor bit the dust.
Saw some white smoke coming out of the top and the monitor got dimmer and dimmer until completely black.
I opened it up as it lasted 3 years and surely the same problem people have been reporting:
a molten mosfet (540N3811G).
I've googled and searched but I can't find a definitive answer as to which mosfet would be a good replacement to solder on.
Did anyone actually have any luck in replacing it and last?
Can someone provide a link to a replacement mosfet and possibly a vendor please?
Thanks.


----------



## Grotlo

Hey,

Just curious how much of an overclock did you run on your monitor util it finally failed?
Do you think overclocking was the reason it did?

Hope it's salvageable

Thanks!


----------



## koomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascii Aficionado*
> 
> Thinking of just buying the same display I had.
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH3Y42877&cm_re=qnix-_-9SIA4JH3Y42877-_-Product
> 
> I see this disclaimer
> I lost my only DL DVI port when I RMA'd my old card and got a 980 Ti in return.
> 
> Would this be an actual issue ?


How do you mean you lost your only DL DVI when you got a 980 Ti back? My 980 Ti most definitely has one, I'm using one of these overclocked qnix monitors.

Mine is a non reference board, but I just pulled up the reference specs just to double check: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980-ti/specifications

All 980 Ti cards should have DL DVI as far as I know, so I'm not sure what you mean.


----------



## Plonide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grotlo*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Just curious how much of an overclock did you run on your monitor util it finally failed?
> Do you think overclocking was the reason it did?
> 
> Hope it's salvageable
> 
> Thanks!


A couple of months, 5 or 6. Had it at 96 Hz. Stopped overclocking it after that because each driver update I had to do the process again and many games didn't detect the refresh rate or supported it so it was a constant hunt for .ini/config files.
I don't believe that was the reason of the short lifespan, it's most likely the components.


----------



## Grotlo

Oh darn it... Ye these monitors we got are not of the highest quality. I keep my overclock at 96hz eventhough it can go up to 108hz w/e artifacts

Well not like you can get decent 1440p 60+hz monitor for less than qnix... Guess it's a calculated risk...


----------



## Zen00

What's the straw, 80% of the performance for 20% of the price? Most 1440p monitors that can do high refresh rates are $300+ but the Qnix ones are currently $200 (with PWM), so you win some/lose some.


----------



## dseg

Is anyone using this monitor with a 1080 TI?
I would imagine they are using an active DVI to Displayport adapter.

Has anyone found a real solution to using these monitors with graphics cards without a dual-DVI?
I am having issues with the active adapters.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Aftermarket 1080Tis have displayport.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plonide*
> 
> Another Qnix monitor bit the dust.
> Saw some white smoke coming out of the top and the monitor got dimmer and dimmer until completely black.
> I opened it up as it lasted 3 years and surely the same problem people have been reporting:
> a molten mosfet (540N3811G).
> I've googled and searched but I can't find a definitive answer as to which mosfet would be a good replacement to solder on.
> Did anyone actually have any luck in replacing it and last?
> Can someone provide a link to a replacement mosfet and possibly a vendor please?
> Thanks.


I must be lucky, mine was bought in 2013 and still running strong as ever. Always overclocked to 110Hz.


----------



## the9quad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I must be lucky, mine was bought in 2013 and still running strong as ever. Always overclocked to 110Hz.


Same:

Mine is old, ran at 120hz forever, and still works. Just replaced it with a gsync monitor, but not because it was broke. It is sitting in my garage now, until I find a use for it. Great monitor.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the9quad*
> 
> Same:
> 
> Mine is old, ran at 120hz forever, and still works. Just replaced it with a gsync monitor, but not because it was broke. It is sitting in my garage now, until I find a use for it. Great monitor.


Same, got mine in 2013 and still running 96Hz no issues. Heck, if you were in Chicago, I'd run over to your house and break into your garage!


----------



## Jboss

Hey would you guys say it's worth it to get a used one for $150? It's the QNIX variation, the seller bought it during the first wave that was able to go 96 hz and higher. I don't think that person ever overclocked it as a 27 inch 1440p monitor at that time for $300 was still a great deal.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Hey would you guys say it's worth it to get a used one for $150? It's the QNIX variation, the seller bought it during the first wave that was able to go 96 hz and higher. I don't think that person ever overclocked it as a 27 inch 1440p monitor at that time for $300 was still a great deal.


Absolutely, good price for one of the good runs! DO EEEET!


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Absolutely, good price for one of the good runs! DO EEEET!


$150 CAD too which is like $10 USD for you.. lol kidding.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> $150 CAD too which is like $10 USD for you.. lol kidding.


Lol, money's all fake anyway. Just one giant social contract, if you think about it too hard your nose will bleed.


----------



## AdamArcade

Hey everyone!

I've had this monitor for about a year and half now, and it's working perfectly, but I decided to finally buy a new stand for the monitor, anyway, I removed the built in stand and put it all back together perfectly, only to find out the screws that were included with the stand/mount I purchased were too long and too wide (one set didn't fit in at all and was too wide, the other screwed in but was too long).

I was wondering if anyone could help me out with the exact type of screws that the VESA mount of this monitor uses, I've read that a lot of monitors use M4 X 10mm screws, are they the ones I should be snagging? I've also seen some M4 X 8mm screws that I could pick up from a local store this weekend.

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdamArcade*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> I've had this monitor for about a year and half now, and it's working perfectly, but I decided to finally buy a new stand for the monitor, anyway, I removed the built in stand and put it all back together perfectly, only to find out the screws that were included with the stand/mount I purchased were too long and too wide (one set didn't fit in at all and was too wide, the other screwed in but was too long).
> 
> I was wondering if anyone could help me out with the exact type of screws that the VESA mount of this monitor uses, I've read that a lot of monitors use M4 X 10mm screws, are they the ones I should be snagging? I've also seen some M4 X 8mm screws that I could pick up from a local store this weekend.
> 
> Any help is appreciated!


I just stacked a bunch of washers and its held up for many years now.


----------



## Stagephase

My trusty QX2710 appears to have carked it today after a couple of years chugging along at 96Hz, as detailed in this thread. I am sad. Can't really afford a replacement at the moment, will have to settle for a 24" 1080p TN thing.

I'm up for taking a run at it with a soldering iron. Is there some kind of common failures checklist? I had a poke around and couldn't see anything obvious.

EDIT: It's the backlight, more as details emerge.


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stagephase*
> 
> My trusty QX2710 appears to have carked it today after a couple of years chugging along at 96Hz, as detailed in this thread. I am sad. Can't really afford a replacement at the moment, will have to settle for a 24" 1080p TN thing.
> 
> I'm up for taking a run at it with a soldering iron. Is there some kind of common failures checklist? I had a poke around and couldn't see anything obvious.
> 
> EDIT: It's the backlight, more as details emerge.


Thank you for posting here as well. After 3 years, all is well on mine. Gonna start to save for another monitor, just in case mine decided to have a similar mood swing.


----------



## herericc

Hey everybody.

Still chugging along with my 2 QNIX 2710's at 60Hz. Best I had them at was 110Hz but I ended up getting an ASUS 144Hz 27" freesync, so I'm just running the QNIXes at stock.

Going to be getting a new GPU soon, and I'm wondering what my best option is for converting from DP to DVI-D. Seems like most new graphics cards are phasing out DVI-D connectors (understandably so, considering how old they are).

Bit confused by the options. There are plenty of DVI to DP adapters / cables out there, but which ones will actually work with the 1440p resolution?

I hope someone else has researched/solved this issue so I can keep my sweet monitors for a long time!

Thanks,

Herericc


----------



## Zero4549

Just chiming in to say that despite the recent wave of people's units dying, my X-Star is still working fine.

I was probably one of the first people to buy an X-Star here on OCN. The unboxing images in the OP are mine. Overclocked to 130hz for the first few months until summer came and the higher temps brought occasional artifacts. Since then I've been running 96hz 24/7.

I got 2 more, for my GF and a gaming buddy, and theirs are also doing fine. Can't say how their usage has been, and their units are a few months younger.

If something happens I'll be sure to post it here, but for now it seems that not everyone is having durability issues despite what recent posts may imply.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> Hey everybody.
> 
> Still chugging along with my 2 QNIX 2710's at 60Hz. Best I had them at was 110Hz but I ended up getting an ASUS 144Hz 27" freesync, so I'm just running the QNIXes at stock.
> 
> Going to be getting a new GPU soon, and I'm wondering what my best option is for converting from DP to DVI-D. Seems like most new graphics cards are phasing out DVI-D connectors (understandably so, considering how old they are).
> 
> Bit confused by the options. There are plenty of DVI to DP adapters / cables out there, but which ones will actually work with the 1440p resolution?
> 
> I hope someone else has researched/solved this issue so I can keep my sweet monitors for a long time!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Herericc


It was my understanding that no converter would ever work with these monitors and you need a true DVI Dual Link signal for the monitor to detect anything. They're even fussy when it comes to Dual Link cables. I bought a cheap longer one from Ebay once to replace the one that came with my monitor and it just black screened. The cable that was supplied with the monitor works perfectly at 1440p60 though.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Just chiming in to say that despite the recent wave of people's units dying, my X-Star is still working fine.
> 
> I was probably one of the first people to buy an X-Star here on OCN. The unboxing images in the OP are mine. Overclocked to 130hz for the first few months until summer came and the higher temps brought occasional artifacts. Since then I've been running 96hz 24/7.
> 
> I got 2 more, for my GF and a gaming buddy, and theirs are also doing fine. Can't say how their usage has been, and their units are a few months younger.
> 
> If something happens I'll be sure to post it here, but for now it seems that not everyone is having durability issues despite what recent posts may imply.


I bought my QX2710 3.5 years ago and it's fine. A guy I was working with back then bought his a few months later and managed to get around 18 months out of it before it started displaying errors. The only key difference I can think of is that he ran his OC'd and I don't.


----------



## elvar

Hey all, I just installed the latest batch of Windows 10 updates and I now cannot get the QNIX monitor driver to install. When I attempt to install it I get the error "The parameter is incorrect". Can anyone help?

Cheers,

Elvar


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elvar*
> 
> Hey all, I just installed the latest batch of Windows 10 updates and I now cannot get the QNIX monitor driver to install. When I attempt to install it I get the error "The parameter is incorrect". Can anyone help?
> 
> Cheers, Elvar


Check my post *HERE* ... AND how to enable "Test Driver Signing" in Win10 *HERE* ... hope that helps


----------



## elvar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JQuantum*
> 
> subbed. Waiting on my monitor almost here.
> 
> I am home now... opened the monitor, zero dead pixels I can find atm, I think the blacklight bleed is very minimal and I've overclocked it straight to 120Hz (after a driver update). Seems to be working so far. xD very very impressed, happy, and relieved that it works so well.
> 
> No modifications yet. PS: 130Hz standard gets some tiny artifacts. Gonna test some more and take some pictures too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Check my post *HERE* ... AND how to enable "Test Driver Signing" in Win10 *HERE* ... hope that helps


The updated driver worked great, thank you!

Cheers,

Elvar


----------



## gabenator

So I bought this version of the QX2710 Evolution II . I know it's not as overclockable as the single DP version (goes up to 85hz I recall) but does it have the same input delay as the other multi? Also is the picture quality the same?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabenator*
> 
> So I bought this version of the QX2710 Evolution II . I know it's not as overclockable as the single DP version (goes up to 85hz I recall) but does it have the same input delay as the other multi? Also is the picture quality the same?


Totally different monitor. Misleadingly labeled "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II". The orig QX2710 has a Samsung PLS panel, the Multi-Tru10 has a VA panel. Will not OC very well. Early versions of the Multi-True 10 were not very good, but are supposedly much better now. Should be a decent monitor, just limited OC'ing.


----------



## gabenator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Totally different monitor. Misleadingly labeled "QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II". The orig QX2710 has a Samsung PLS panel, the Multi-Tru10 has a VA panel. Will not OC very well. Early versions of the Multi-True 10 were not very good, but are supposedly much better now. Should be a decent monitor, just limited OC'ing.


Aren't VA panels pretty good? Man I wish I had researched more before ordering it. I don't mind lack of high OC too much. Just as long as there is no heavy input lag.


----------



## gabenator

Yeah I'm gonna end up refunding because the more I look into it, the more the multi seems rather awful.


----------



## BulletSponge

Considering how long these overclockable Korean panels have been available they have to be scraping the bottom of the barrel on good units buy now. Give it a year and a half and you'll be able to get overclockable 4k panels for what we were paying 3 years ago for the same thing in 1440p.

Edit-rewarded patience is one of the sweetest victories


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Considering how long these overclockable Korean panels have been available they have to be scraping the bottom of the barrel on good units buy now. Give it a year and a half and you'll be able to get overclockable 4k panels for what we were paying 3 years ago for the same thing in 1440p.
> 
> Edit-rewarded patience is one of the sweetest victories


The only problem is pushing 4k60 or above on most GPU's is still extremely difficult atm unless you're willing to sacrifice a lot of detail or only play older games.These monitors have been around for almost 5 years and even in 2017, 1080p60 is still the benchmark standard and 2k is considered a luxury.


----------



## tangosmango

So I have two of these monitors. One I have had for over 3 years now and the newer one for about a year.

The newer one just flickered and turned off. No blue light, no power. I thought it may be the power adapter so I switched it with the working monitor but still no light. One thing I do notice is that when I try to plug in the power, it sparks a little and makes a "pop" noise. Every time I press the power button, it makes the same pop noise. What's that mean? Am I just **** out of luck?

edit: so reading some of the other pages, people reporting failures as well. I was overclocked to 100hz from the get go. I got the monitor sometime in 2013


----------



## BitsandBytez

Any reason I don't see anyone mentioning EVGA Pixel Clock OC Utility here, and just CRU?

I use the EVGA tool and get 110Hz from my 2710 without any modded driver inf's installed or other hacks (GTX980)

Was running Creators update with 110Hz up until a few weeks ago when I installed LTSB, no infs either


----------



## Jboss

96, 105, 110 hz. Which one should i be using? I was using 96 hz majority of the time when i had a AMD GPU. I upgraded to a NVIDIA GPU yesterday and was able to push 110 hz with very very minor artifacts while watching twitch streams, although seems mostly fine when i'm gaming.. Haven't noticed any artifacts in game yet.

Everyone here uses 96 hz right? Is there an explanation behind it?


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> 96, 105, 110 hz. Which one should i be using? I was using 96 hz majority of the time when i had a AMD GPU. I upgraded to a NVIDIA GPU yesterday and was able to push 110 hz with very very minor artifacts while watching twitch streams, although seems mostly fine when i'm gaming.. Haven't noticed any artifacts in game yet.
> 
> Everyone here uses 96 hz right? Is there an explanation behind it?


It has something to do with video playback and the refresh rate needing to be an increment of 24 to avoid sync issues. It's why high refresh rate monitors come in 120Hz, 144Hz and 240Hz options.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> It has something to do with video playback and the refresh rate needing to be an increment of 24 to avoid sync issues. It's why high refresh rate monitors come in 120Hz, 144Hz and 240Hz options.


So i should just do 96 bcos 105/110 is pointless right?


----------



## BulletSponge

For myself the biggest advantage to 96Hz was that the brick did not get too hot. The first one died after 6 months at 110Hz but the replacement is still humming along nicely after 2 years at 96.


----------



## Jboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> For myself the biggest advantage to 96Hz was that the brick did not get too hot. The first one died after 6 months at 110Hz but the replacement is still humming along nicely after 2 years at 96.


Replacement as in you bought a second one or were you able to RMA the first one despite the seller being overseas? Guess i will stick to 96, running 110 hz on my game (pubg) is pretty demanding anyways, hard to get consistent fps anyways so the tearing is lame oto.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jboss*
> 
> Replacement as in you bought a second one or were you able to RMA the first one despite the seller being overseas? Guess i will stick to 96, running 110 hz on my game (pubg) is pretty demanding anyways, hard to get consistent fps anyways so the tearing is lame oto.


I did not RMA, I bought this one and it has been rock solid ever since. Cheap, also.


----------



## BitsandBytez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> It has something to do with video playback and the refresh rate needing to be an increment of 24 to avoid sync issues. It's why high refresh rate monitors come in 120Hz, 144Hz and 240Hz options.


Makes sense although I've had mine at 110 since I got it last Xmas~ and not had any sync issues, it was my brothers for a few years prior also always at 110, I just set it to 96 as a test and noticed a considerable amount of judder moving windows around which is not there at 110


----------



## doco

i think my qnix 2710 from 2013 just died. i was afk for maybe 30 mins leaving the monitor on and then i came back to a black screen. i changed the mainboard with an extra one i had and still no go. i smelled smoke when i turned the monitor again with the new board.

it did the RGB test and then it failed with the smoke smell. guessing the panel is done for?


----------



## Zen00

What's with this sudden spat of dead monitors?


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> i think my qnix 2710 from 2013 just died.


What was your OC and were you running 24/7?

I was at 110hz for a good while but since went back to 60hz as alot of monitors are dying. Bought it a few years back.


----------



## doco

only 120hz whenever i played games. rest of the time 60hz. then board went bad i think around late 2015. got board fixed. been 60hz ever since and an extra board just in case.

if anyone overclocked this monitor past 60hz, expect the damage to be already done even if you revert if back to 60hz. reverting back to 60hz will only buy you prolonged life.


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> if anyone overclocked this monitor past 60hz, expect the damage to be already done even if you revert if back to 60hz. reverting back to 60hz will only buy you prolonged life.


Yeah, I expect so too. Are you looking to get a replacement monitor and if so, any ideas?

Also, we have very similar setups. Still going strong with the i5 25xx setup.


----------



## doco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiju*
> 
> Yeah, I expect so too. Are you looking to get a replacement monitor and if so, any ideas?
> 
> Also, we have very similar setups. Still going strong with the i5 25xx setup.


was using qnix 2710 as second monitor for the last year. idk if i want to stick with the crossover 2795 as my main monitor still or use it as a secondary and try a 3440x1440 monitor. there are new monitors coming out this year, so i'll wait and see how the prices fluctuate in the retail and used market for the 1st gen 3440x1440 monitors.


----------



## zazzn

Hi All,

What are you doing with Pascal or newer GPU's?

Most of these don't come with a DVI port and I really don't want to buy another active adapter. Is there any controller replacements on the monitor that you can hack in to have DVI support?

The acell adapter is not great and only does 80 HZ.


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> What are you doing with Pascal or newer GPU's?
> 
> Most of these don't come with a DVI port and I really don't want to buy another active adapter. Is there any controller replacements on the monitor that you can hack in to have DVI support?
> 
> The acell adapter is not great and only does 80 HZ.


While they probably do exist I have not yet seen a Pascal card without DVI.


----------



## zazzn

Yes but they don't have 3 dvi ports









I have 3 monitors...

1 X-star 1 Qnix and one Shimian.

All of them are DVI. My 780GTX has 2 DVI slots and I use the acell adapter. But at 40% the cost of the monitor for the adapter, I'm thinking of just getting a 34" 4k korean version with DP.


----------



## BulletSponge

Ah, I see. Now that is something I had not considered.


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> While they probably do exist I have not yet seen a Pascal card without DVI.


Reference 1080ti doesn't have DVI port but who buys Reference card anyway


----------



## The Storm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> Reference 1080ti doesn't have DVI port but who buys Reference card anyway


People buy reference cards for the ease of waterblocks. I have an X-Star that I have been using since they come on the scene. I recently upgraded from 3 R9-290x's to a single 1080ti. I also was trying to figure out how I was to do this since I wanted to be on water and did not want to pay the premium for the fancy air cooled versions. I found the EVGA 1080ti SC Black is a reference board with a DVI port, also EK offers a water block for this card, win win.


----------



## zazzn

While the 10$ adapters do work on amazon the gofino, they are flaky as hell and leave purple scan lines and all sorts of artifacts which sucks. This is such a silly issue I wish there was a board for the qnix that would give display port.. calling on EE's out there! We need a jack!


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Storm*
> 
> People buy reference cards for the ease of waterblocks. I have an X-Star that I have been using since they come on the scene. I recently upgraded from 3 R9-290x's to a single 1080ti. I also was trying to figure out how I was to do this since I wanted to be on water and did not want to pay the premium for the fancy air cooled versions. I found the EVGA 1080ti SC Black is a reference board with a DVI port, also EK offers a water block for this card, win win.


Same card im running. Wonderful for 120hz 1440p ultra on everything.
Was a bad overclocker tho on the air cooler and stock bios.


----------



## dangitzken

Hey all, been having trouble re-overclocking this monitor after the Windows 10 creator update. I've overclocked it to 96 Hz for about a year until the windows 10 update.
Here's what I've done so far:

-Disabled driver reinforcement and was successfully able to install the *latest* qnix.inf driver that was posted here last week.
-Ran the nvlddmkm-patcher-full.exe (not sure if there were any new releases for this patcher)
-Created custom resolution in NVIDIA Control Panel with Refresh Rate at 96 Hz, but in the Display Settings -> Display adapter properties, it does not show the 96 Hz there at all. Also, I do remember in the past when I set refresh rate above 96 Hz, I would see green lines on my screen after hitting "test", but I don't even see that anymore.

Did I miss anything?

CPU : i5-6600k
Graphics card: GeForce GTX 1070 (driver 382.53)
OS: Windows 10 Pro


----------



## bmgjet

I didnt have to do anything like that.
Just did fresh install for creaters edition.
Just go and make custom resolution in Nvidia CP.
Make one with 100hz and 1 with 120hz.
It tests them, Then they show up as options in the drop down refresh rate for 1440 res.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> I didnt have to do anything like that.
> Just did fresh install for creaters edition.
> Just go and make custom resolution in Nvidia CP.
> Make one with 100hz and 1 with 120hz.
> It tests them, Then they show up as options in the drop down refresh rate for 1440 res.


I had no problems. This is basically what I did but at 96hz. GTX 980


----------



## jerrit1

I overclocked my QX2710LED screen to 100hz but when i launch a game the display goes bad and is not viewable, it acts like if you set a screen to a bad refresh rate. Is my game changing the refresh rate of the LCD and if so would it not just set it to the normal 60Hz which my LCD should be able to display fine....what is going on?

RESOLVED: Just needed to delete the settings INI file in the games folder to reset the games resolution & refresh settings.


----------



## uncleshady

Cross pollinating for effect.

See pic

2 years on QNIX QX2710 overclocked to 96hz with varying Nvidia/AMD cards and overclocking methods. Never a problem. Currently GTX 1070

Recently I've noticed that testufo isnt holding 96hz even though nvidia control panel and windows both think Im there.

Tried removing all drivers via ddu and reinstalled, same. Pulled all secondary monitors off and same. Seems to hold 60hz and maxes around 70hz now.

What happened? Is my monitor dying? Has the latest Win 10 update borked me? THanks in advance because I'm stumped.


----------



## vasyltheonly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zazzn*
> 
> Yes but they don't have 3 dvi ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 3 monitors...
> 
> 1 X-star 1 Qnix and one Shimian.
> 
> All of them are DVI. My 780GTX has 2 DVI slots and I use the acell adapter. But at 40% the cost of the monitor for the adapter, I'm thinking of just getting a 34" 4k korean version with DP.


Are you able to use the adapter and achieve a similar OC on the monitor? I just got a 1080Ti that I was going to watercool, but I overlooked the fact that it was missing a DVI.


----------



## zazzn

He adapter I have acell gives overscan lines if pushed to 80 hz so I'm only running it at 60. My main monitor he shimain is old and only does 60. The x-star does 120 but I only use it for gaming when I am at a LAN party on a single monitor configuration. Basically I think we are sol trying to use these monitors on newer cards unless you just have one monitor.


----------



## TuBBe

I just bought mine second hand, and it clocks nicely to 96hz, and it looks really good, but looking at the screen makes me really nauseus. It strains my eyes, gives headache and makes stomach feel weird. And i tried to check for PWM dimming, and i didint see any, while the monitor i had been using for like 3 years without symptoms had pretty big PWM dimming, so it cant be it.

Are there any other causes besides PWM dimming that can cause nausea?


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TuBBe*
> 
> I just bought mine second hand, and it clocks nicely to 96hz, and it looks really good, but looking at the screen makes me really nauseus. It strains my eyes, gives headache and makes stomach feel weird. And i tried to check for PWM dimming, and i didint see any, while the monitor i had been using for like 3 years without symptoms had pretty big PWM dimming, so it cant be it.
> 
> Are there any other causes besides PWM dimming that can cause nausea?


I'm not an expert in the slightest, but I think there's something weird going on with the backlight on these. If you lower the brightness all the way you'll see flickering plain as day, I've got two and they both do it.


----------



## FSB-SPY

Any chance of just getting a panel replacement? My display panel got damaged figured I could just replace the panel instead of buying an entire new monitor again.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

To be honest it might be a lot easier and about the same price if you just buy a new monitor outright. The panel is the majority of the cost.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> I'm not an expert in the slightest, but I think there's something weird going on with the backlight on these. If you lower the brightness all the way you'll see flickering plain as day, I've got two and they both do it.


Same here.


----------



## kadaz

just bought a second hand QX2710 evolution 2 for 140 euros. I hesitated cause the hype for korean monitors is gone, but then I did a google search for a brand 1440p 120+hz and that would be 500 euros or more for an IPS panel. I think it was a good buy?

Anyway the monitor is perfect. Though I wanted to ask, did yours squeak? Mine does and it looks like if I pull the front panel with my fingers it will come right off.

Also, how can I fix the yellowish tint it has? Whites are not true at all..


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kadaz*
> 
> just bought a second hand QX2710 evolution 2 for 140 euros. I hesitated cause the hype for korean monitors is gone, but then I did a google search for a brand 1440p 120+hz and that would be 500 euros or more for an IPS panel. I think it was a good buy?
> 
> Anyway the monitor is perfect. Though I wanted to ask, did yours squeak? Mine does and it looks like if I pull the front panel with my fingers it will come right off.
> 
> Also, how can I fix the yellowish tint it has? Whites are not true at all..


Check the OP for color profiles and how to apply them.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kadaz*
> 
> just bought a second hand QX2710 evolution 2 for 140 euros. I hesitated cause the hype for korean monitors is gone, but then I did a google search for a brand 1440p 120+hz and that would be 500 euros or more for an IPS panel. I think it was a good buy?
> 
> Anyway the monitor is perfect. Though I wanted to ask, did yours squeak? Mine does and it looks like if I pull the front panel with my fingers it will come right off.
> 
> Also, how can I fix the yellowish tint it has? Whites are not true at all..


Yes mine squeaks.

Honestly, since I bought this 2013, there hasn't been an equivalent monitor in this quality for this price. Sure there were some amazing monitors released but at exorbitant prices. The only reason I'm thinking of upgrading is because of Freesync/Gsync technology, since I concluded that there is no GPU that can maintain a constant high refresh rate with modern games.

If you don't care about variable refresh rate and don't mind the extra latency of vsync, then Korean monitors are still a valid and good choice IF you buy a true overclockable panel, meaning no skipping at high refresh rates.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Yes mine squeaks.
> 
> Honestly, since I bought this 2013, there hasn't been an equivalent monitor in this quality for this price. Sure there were some amazing monitors released but at exorbitant prices. The only reason I'm thinking of upgrading is because of Freesync/Gsync technology, since I concluded that there is no GPU that can maintain a constant high refresh rate with modern games.
> 
> If you don't care about variable refresh rate and don't mind the extra latency of vsync, then Korean monitors are still a valid and good choice IF you buy a true overclockable panel, meaning no skipping at high refresh rates.


If it matters to you, you can unofficially enable FreeSync through CRU on Korean monitors with bypass PCBs but it's limited to single-link DVI due to being activated as if FreeSync over HDMI. Consequently, you can get to about 2560x1440 64Hz max (and commonly around 60Hz) before green lines start appearing excessively.

As for purchasing a new Qnix, there has been a more common trend of opting for cheaper panels than what we used to buy in 2013-2015, and some of these cheaper panels tend to come with a smaller gamut (undersaturation) or worse contrast ratio (700:1). These panels tend to be of the AHVA variant as far as I know, but not all AHVA panels used in the Qnix should necessarily have these issues (different AHVA panels used). So one has to be careful when buying a Qnix in the present. Other brands might ship monitors with better or worse panels, so staying on the lookout for which brand offers the best panels at any given time is necessary. NCX (MenacingTuba) keeps track of such changes, so seeking his knowledge would be the best thing to do.


----------



## kadaz

could you link me to a nice 96Hz w/ color balance guide? In the op I tried some but it seems dated since the drivers didn't work and I had to look for them in the thread.

btw, does 96hz take away from the monitors life span? It's very very hot in my room and I don't want to fry a mosfet or something

thanks


----------



## FSB-SPY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> To be honest it might be a lot easier and about the same price if you just buy a new monitor outright. The panel is the majority of the cost.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Matte-Off-grade-27-2560x1440-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111520558751?hash=item19f724ae9f:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e

Would this one be legit? I had the old single-input LTM270DL06 panel before. Bought from the same dealer 2 years ago (but closer to $300 back then).


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If it matters to you, you can unofficially enable FreeSync through CRU on Korean monitors with bypass PCBs but it's limited to single-link DVI due to being activated as if FreeSync over HDMI. Consequently, you can get to about 2560x1440 64Hz max (and commonly around 60Hz) before green lines start appearing excessively.
> 
> As for purchasing a new Qnix, there has been a more common trend of opting for cheaper panels than what we used to buy in 2013-2015, and some of these cheaper panels tend to come with a smaller gamut (undersaturation) or worse contrast ratio (700:1). These panels tend to be of the AHVA variant as far as I know, but not all AHVA panels used in the Qnix should necessarily have these issues (different AHVA panels used). So one has to be careful when buying a Qnix in the present. Other brands might ship monitors with better or worse panels, so staying on the lookout for which brand offers the best panels at any given time is necessary. NCX (MenacingTuba) keeps track of such changes, so seeking his knowledge would be the best thing to do.


Awesome. I'm going to try it out since I've never used a freesync display before. If it works i may even keep using my Qnix a while longer until 4k monitors are available and affordable. Though I have to see if I'm comfortable with the ~60hz maximum range.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> NCX (MenacingTuba) keeps track of such changes, so seeking his knowledge would be the best thing to do.


Yeah I should have clarified. As you said it is harder to find a quality panel these days but MenacingTuba is a great reference in these matters


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If it matters to you, you can unofficially enable FreeSync through CRU on Korean monitors with bypass PCBs but it's limited to single-link DVI due to being activated as if FreeSync over HDMI. Consequently, you can get to about 2560x1440 64Hz max (and commonly around 60Hz) before green lines start appearing excessively.
> 
> As for purchasing a new Qnix, there has been a more common trend of opting for cheaper panels than what we used to buy in 2013-2015, and some of these cheaper panels tend to come with a smaller gamut (undersaturation) or worse contrast ratio (700:1). These panels tend to be of the AHVA variant as far as I know, but not all AHVA panels used in the Qnix should necessarily have these issues (different AHVA panels used). So one has to be careful when buying a Qnix in the present. Other brands might ship monitors with better or worse panels, so staying on the lookout for which brand offers the best panels at any given time is necessary. NCX (MenacingTuba) keeps track of such changes, so seeking his knowledge would be the best thing to do.


I folowed your settings from this post and got freesync working from 24 to 70 hz and there is no tearing in the freesync demo. But there seems to be some stuttering which is strange:






Edit:
After searching it turns out that a program called Flux was causing this issue. I closed it and the stuttering went away.





I noticed that turning freesync on or off on the demo did not change the results however, maybe it means that freesync is always turned on?


----------



## DiceAir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> If it matters to you, you can unofficially enable FreeSync through CRU on Korean monitors with bypass PCBs but it's limited to single-link DVI due to being activated as if FreeSync over HDMI. Consequently, you can get to about 2560x1440 64Hz max (and commonly around 60Hz) before green lines start appearing excessively.
> 
> As for purchasing a new Qnix, there has been a more common trend of opting for cheaper panels than what we used to buy in 2013-2015, and some of these cheaper panels tend to come with a smaller gamut (undersaturation) or worse contrast ratio (700:1). These panels tend to be of the AHVA variant as far as I know, but not all AHVA panels used in the Qnix should necessarily have these issues (different AHVA panels used). So one has to be careful when buying a Qnix in the present. Other brands might ship monitors with better or worse panels, so staying on the lookout for which brand offers the best panels at any given time is necessary. NCX (MenacingTuba) keeps track of such changes, so seeking his knowledge would be the best thing to do.


That's pretty cool. i still have my old Qnix monitor. I gave it to my dad but he doesn't game but like the extra screen space. maybe when he upgrades to a freesync compatible GPU i might just try it


----------



## TuBBe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Check the OP for color profiles and how to apply them.


Hi yasamoka! Its great to see you still around! I just got my Qnix, and your profiles and answers in http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=387573 about Qnix and eye strain and headaches really helped me! Im now using your profile "Qnix 5000K g2.2 S 96Hz 12c (2014-03-27)" and it has helped alot. But i think i still could use "stronger" profile. I mean, maybe 4600-4800 kelvin or so.

Do you remember have you done profiles that red? I might need to train to make them myself. I really like this monitor after all the TN 60hz stuff, but the eyestrain even with no PWM dimming is making me really nauseus :I

edit: Tried watching the screen thro my smartphone camera again. My old Full HD has clear PWM dimming going on, but it never gave me any symptoms. Qnix doesnt have PWM dimming, but it clearly has somekind of flickering going on. Its barely noticeable, and mostly when looking thro camera. It must be the reason why my eyes are so strained, and i guess there is nothing that can be done with that









edit2: Scratch that, my Qnix clearly has PWM dimming, but its only visible when going to lowest possible brightness, but still my old monitor had clear as day PWM dimming and i was always fine


----------



## blackdragonbird

Hi,

Anyone having issues to install the driver for these monitors in Windows 10 1703?

Already disabled Driver Signature Enforcement, but still got a error that Windows found a problem installing the driver.

My display is an old DVI-D model X-star DP2710, around 3 years of use now.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackdragonbird*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Anyone having issues to install the driver for these monitors in Windows 10 1703?
> 
> Already disabled Driver Signature Enforcement, but still got a error that Windows found a problem installing the driver.
> 
> My display is an old DVI-D model X-star DP2710, around 3 years of use now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Check my post *HERE* ... AND how to enable "Test Driver Signing" in Win10 *HERE* ... hope that helps


----------



## blackdragonbird

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*


Thank you very much.

Is working as intended now.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kadaz*
> 
> could you link me to a nice 96Hz w/ color balance guide? In the op I tried some but it seems dated since the drivers didn't work and I had to look for them in the thread.
> 
> btw, does 96hz take away from the monitors life span? It's very very hot in my room and I don't want to fry a mosfet or something
> 
> thanks


There's this guide by my friend eclap (thanks!) on how to use Color Sustainer (which was written by me).

As for color profiles, those were the last ones I had released. My monitor hasn't changed much if at all since then although I have recalibrated it following the color profiles I had shared. However, my monitor drifts differently than yours so there's little point in sharing profiles continuously as your monitor could be drifting in the same direction or differently, and we do not have data to cause us to believe that we can treat drift as anything but random, based on the content your monitor displays, backlight brightness, and set refresh rate over time. So feel free to try out any of the color profiles in the OP, since there is no notion of color profiles being out-of-date in this case, as long as they're being produced by a good sensor if you're looking for a somewhat accurate calibration where you have a panel with the same characteristics as that the calibration was performed on.

Running higher refresh rates will make the display controller (probably along with several other components) run hotter (as they're shifting more data over time), however it shouldn't be a cause for concern. If your monitor is running within an inch of its life to be affected sufficiently by the switch from 60Hz to 96Hz then a change of its environment would likely be better to look into anyway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Awesome. I'm going to try it out since I've never used a freesync display before. If it works i may even keep using my Qnix a while longer until 4k monitors are available and affordable. Though I have to see if I'm comfortable with the ~60hz maximum range.


Yeah, the 60Hz range is hard to live with. I used the 60Hz range to max out Rise of the Tomb Raider on 290X CF which, while capable of a lot more, do end up dipping into the 70s sometimes. So I used FreeSync to lower the latency that VSync @ 60Hz would give me. I would set the refresh rate at, say, 64Hz, and cap to 60FPS and turn VSync on (to prevent sporadic tearing at the bottom of the frame. I get reduced input lag that way.
Quote:


> Yeah I should have clarified. As you said it is harder to find a quality panel these days but MenacingTuba is a great reference in these matters


Indeed, as always.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I folowed your settings from this post and got freesync working from 24 to 70 hz and there is no tearing in the freesync demo. But there seems to be some stuttering which is strange:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> After searching it turns out that a program called Flux was causing this issue. I closed it and the stuttering went away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that turning freesync on or off on the demo did not change the results however, maybe it means that freesync is always turned on?


I don't think so. The FreeSync demo readily controls whether FreeSync is enabled or not. Try turning FreeSync on with VSync off. Does tearing get eliminated? Then try turning FreeSync on with VSync off. Does stutter get eliminated? The most obvious effects of FreeSync tend to appear with variable framerate in the animation (I think it was animation 2) where the windmill moves from left to right. Check out part 2 of my videos which shows the effect of FreeSync @ 60Hz in slow motion (recorded at 240FPS).

If FreeSync still doesn't work, perhaps you might want to shoot me a PM if we're going off-topic in this club, so as to not annoy others (although I'm pretty sure many would be interested in the prospect of enabling FreeSync unofficially on their bargain Korean monitors purchased years ago or even recently).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiceAir*
> 
> That's pretty cool. i still have my old Qnix monitor. I gave it to my dad but he doesn't game but like the extra screen space. maybe when he upgrades to a freesync compatible GPU i might just try it


Try it. It's great, but it will stress the TMDS transmitter, cable, and panel (in halves) as if the panel were overclocked to 120Hz as one link out of the two in DVI is active with this hack. So think of it as running half of a 1440p 120Hz monitor (1440p 60Hz over dual-link DVI is less stressful) with regards to component stress.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TuBBe*
> 
> Hi yasamoka! Its great to see you still around! I just got my Qnix, and your profiles and answers in http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=387573 about Qnix and eye strain and headaches really helped me! Im now using your profile "Qnix 5000K g2.2 S 96Hz 12c (2014-03-27)" and it has helped alot. But i think i still could use "stronger" profile. I mean, maybe 4600-4800 kelvin or so.
> 
> Do you remember have you done profiles that red? I might need to train to make them myself. I really like this monitor after all the TN 60hz stuff, but the eyestrain even with no PWM dimming is making me really nauseus :I
> 
> edit: Tried watching the screen thro my smartphone camera again. My old Full HD has clear PWM dimming going on, but it never gave me any symptoms. Qnix doesnt have PWM dimming, but it clearly has somekind of flickering going on. Its barely noticeable, and mostly when looking thro camera. It must be the reason why my eyes are so strained, and i guess there is nothing that can be done with that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit2: Scratch that, my Qnix clearly has PWM dimming, but its only visible when going to lowest possible brightness, but still my old monitor had clear as day PWM dimming and i was always fine


Hey there! Good to see you too









What model is your older FHD monitor? Perhaps we can compare the PWM frequency in order to determine whether that is the cause, although at this point it seems unlikely. Perhaps the spectral distribution from this Qnix is what's irritating your eyes (excessive intensity of blue wavelengths which are averaged out by less intensive red and green wavelengths).

The profiles I have shared have been produced by a colorimeter. I have just repaired my colorimeter recently but I haven't had time to perform any calibration. However, when I do, I will keep you in mind and make you a lower temperature profile, no worries.

In the meantime, and perhaps this would be the better option for you anyway, is to check out QuickGamma. The software helps you adjust (and create) color profiles that match the color temperature, gamma, etc... combinations that you might be looking for. Since using someone else's color profiles is an inaccurate practice in essence (each monitor is different), you're limited to generating / using color profiles that are suitable for your eye comfort with regards to color temperature rather than absolute accuracy (which is only possible at 6500K anyway as content is authored at that color temperature). Barring using your own colorimeter, accuracy cannot be reasonably achieved anyway.

Hope this helps. Do hit me up on PM if you have any specific questions regarding color, color profiles, Color Sustainer, or anything related really.

Good to see this community is still alive after all these years.


----------



## kadaz

guys I need help... I bought a used qnix 2710 a week ago and it was perfect till today, when I noticed some burn in on the upper right corner of the screen

The only things i've done since getting it was install its drivers, install an ICM color profile and make a custom resolution from the nvidia control panel (96Hz). Is the monitor broken?


----------



## yasamoka

This thread is chock-full of the fact that these panels demonstrate side effects when overclocked one of which is image retention particularly in the upper right corner along with gamma shift and worse uniformity. Use 60Hz on desktop and 96Hz in games and you're good to go.


----------



## kadaz

double post cause my net sux


----------



## kadaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> This thread is chock-full of the fact that these panels demonstrate side effects when overclocked one of which is image retention particularly in the upper right corner along with gamma shift and worse uniformity. Use 60Hz on desktop and 96Hz in games and you're good to go.


yeah I am new to this sorry, problem is this is 3000 pages and I can't read all of it..

so you mean to say this is temporary? it will go away?

also lastly, I would appreciate it a ton if you had a good and balanced color profile to recommend.. thanks fam


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kadaz*
> 
> yeah I am new to this sorry, problem is this is 3000 pages and I can't read all of it..
> 
> so you mean to say this is temporary? it will go away?
> 
> also lastly, I would appreciate it a ton if you had a good and balanced color profile to recommend.. thanks fam


Oh, I should have added that the information is available in the OP so check it out. Some necessary information in there that should help you out.

Yes, the image retention is temporary and by switching to 60Hz, it should go away in a few minutes.

As for color profiles, you will also find many sets of color profiles in the OP, some of which are mine. I have made several profiles for many combinations of refresh rates and color temperatures.

What are you using to load color profiles? You will also find a tool called Color Sustainer that I wrote linked in the OP, I believe. Check it out, see if it helps.


----------



## kadaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Oh, I should have added that the information is available in the OP so check it out. Some necessary information in there that should help you out.
> 
> Yes, the image retention is temporary and by switching to 60Hz, it should go away in a few minutes.
> 
> As for color profiles, you will also find many sets of color profiles in the OP, some of which are mine. I have made several profiles for many combinations of refresh rates and color temperatures.
> 
> What are you using to load color profiles? You will also find a tool called Color Sustainer that I wrote linked in the OP, I believe. Check it out, see if it helps.


Yeah the color profile I am using right now is from the OP. I don't use a tool, I just put it in a folder in system32 and loaded it through windows as per the guide. I downloaded color sustainer but it wouldn't show my custom resolution as 96Hz but as 60hz, so i stopped using it.

Another thing I noticed is that in Battlegrounds which is the only game I play, 60hz seems smoother than 96Hz. Also I tested my OC with a camera and it doesn't frame skip so I don't know what's up with that. But after this retention thing I think I ll stick with 60hz. 140 euros for a 1440p monitor is still a good deal even at 60hz


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kadaz*
> 
> Yeah the color profile I am using right now is from the OP. I don't use a tool, I just put it in a folder in system32 and loaded it through windows as per the guide. I downloaded color sustainer but it wouldn't show my custom resolution as 96Hz but as 60hz, so i stopped using it.


Nvidia custom resolutions do not get properly reported by Windows. Add the custom resolution through CRU (Custom Resolution Utility) and it should show up.
Quote:


> Another thing I noticed is that in Battlegrounds which is the only game I play, 60hz seems smoother than 96Hz. Also I tested my OC with a camera and it doesn't frame skip so I don't know what's up with that. But after this retention thing I think I ll stick with 60hz. 140 euros for a 1440p monitor is still a good deal even at 60hz


It shouldn't frameskip, so you're good to go. Were you expecting it to frameskip?

I'm not sure how well Battlegrounds runs but if it's not close to 60 then it should run smoother at 96Hz.

You can switch to 96Hz for games that benefit from it and stay at 60Hz otherwise. I do the same with 60Hz and 110Hz.


----------



## kadaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Nvidia custom resolutions do not get properly reported by Windows. Add the custom resolution through CRU (Custom Resolution Utility) and it should show up.
> It shouldn't frameskip, so you're good to go. Were you expecting it to frameskip?
> 
> I'm not sure how well Battlegrounds runs but if it's not close to 60 then it should run smoother at 96Hz.
> 
> You can switch to 96Hz for games that benefit from it and stay at 60Hz otherwise. I do the same with 60Hz and 110Hz.


oh okay thanks

no i was not expecting it but it seemed less smooth than 60hz.. I have a 1070 and batlegrounds hovers around 40-100fps depending on the stage of the game. I think I ll stick with 60hz for now.

Also, 96hz should work regardless of the game right? Or is it 60hz +vsync = smoother than 96hz w/o v sync?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kadaz*
> 
> oh okay thanks
> 
> no i was not expecting it but it seemed less smooth than 60hz.. I have a 1070 and batlegrounds hovers around 40-100fps depending on the stage of the game. I think I ll stick with 60hz for now.
> 
> Also, 96hz should work regardless of the game right? Or is it 60hz +vsync = smoother than 96hz w/o v sync?


Depends on how variable your framerate is. If your framerate is hovering close to 60FPS then 60Hz + VSync is smoother. If your framerate is variable, or sufficiently higher than 60FPS then 96Hz will likely be smoother. If you're sustaining framerates close to 96FPS then 96Hz is a game changer.


----------



## kadaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kadaz*
> 
> oh okay thanks
> 
> no i was not expecting it but it seemed less smooth than 60hz.. I have a 1070 and batlegrounds hovers around 40-100fps depending on the stage of the game. I think I ll stick with 60hz for now.
> 
> Also, 96hz should work regardless of the game right? Or is it 60hz +vsync = smoother than 96hz w/o v sync?


alright thanks for all the help man really. one last thing, from your color presets, which one do you personally prefer?

the only thing left to fix is the bezel hidding the lower side of the screen by 1cm or so, which is easy to fix but i dont have the time right now


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kadaz*
> 
> alright thanks for all the help man really. one last thing, from your color presets, which one do you personally prefer?
> 
> the only thing left to fix is the bezel hidding the lower side of the screen by 1cm or so, which is easy to fix but i dont have the time right now


I'm a purist so I bought a colorimeter to calibrate at 6500K, gamma 2.2, 100-140cd/m2 (around 6-10 brightness clicks or so - not sure, don't take my word for it).


----------



## xartion

years later, my X-Star is still going strong at 120hz 24/7. meanwhile, in that time, I've had an ASUS monitor die on me







this has been a good investment until 4K 120hz+ becomes viable


----------



## Sunreeper

I know this is off topic but I was looking for your guys opinion. Somebody is selling a used philips 4065 (4k 40" VA monitor) for $275 cad. From doing some research I've determined that the monitor is from 2014 and can have a fair deal of issues (pwm flicker, some colour banding, ghosting). Would you guys go for it?


----------



## Yoseanda

When I try to install the QNIX drivers I get the following error message:

"Windows found drivers for your device but encountered an error while attempting to install them"
"The parameter is incorrect"

Is there a solution for this?


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> I'm a purist so I bought a colorimeter to calibrate at 6500K, gamma 2.2, 100-140cd/m2 (around 6-10 brightness clicks or so - not sure, don't take my word for it).


By the way, where do you change the color/brightness settings?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> By the way, where do you change the color/brightness settings?


Since there's no OSD, it's all done through color profiles.


----------



## Atomagenesis

I bought mine 4 years ago, it's been OCd to 120hz the entire time on the stock power brick. It's still going strong.


----------



## bloodr0se

What power brick do people typically recommend for an OC? I've seen people report mixed results when using the stock PSU.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> What power brick do people typically recommend for an OC? I've seen people report mixed results when using the stock PSU.


Couldn't say. All 3 stock PSUs have worked fine for me. That said it shouldn't be terribly difficult to find a PSU with similar rated specs from a reputable company. You could even wire the monitor into your computer's PSU, which is almost guaranteed to be completely overkill given your presence here on OCN for more than a week


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Couldn't say. All 3 stock PSUs have worked fine for me. That said it shouldn't be terribly difficult to find a PSU with similar rated specs from a reputable company. You could even wire the monitor into your computer's PSU, which is almost guaranteed to be completely overkill given your presence here on OCN for more than a week


Why have you needed 3 PSU's just out of curiosity? Do you use 3 monitors?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Why have you needed 3 PSU's just out of curiosity? Do you use 3 monitors?


Yes 3 x-stars.


----------



## dante`afk

any1 else trouble installing catleap drivers on his qnix on windows 10? I disabled windows driver signature enforcement, still won't install.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> any1 else trouble installing catleap drivers on his qnix on windows 10? I disabled windows driver signature enforcement, still won't install.


Just a curious question, why do so many members care about the driver being installed? As far as I know it's just a descriptive driver, with no added functionality whatsoever. I've been using mine without a driver since I bought it late 2013.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Just a curious question, why do so many members care about the driver being installed? As far as I know it's just a descriptive driver, with no added functionality whatsoever. I've been using mine without a driver since I bought it late 2013.


Same, not sure why people use drivers for a monitor...


----------



## Zen00

Sometimes it's just nice to see those actual names instead of "Generic DVI Device". Also you can add custom resolutions directly to the drivers I believe, so you don't have to use CRU.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> Sometimes it's just nice to see those actual names instead of "Generic DVI Device". Also you can add custom resolutions directly to the drivers I believe, so you don't have to use CRU.


Oh interesting, I didn't know about the custom resolution bit. That would be really nice to not have to re-accomplish my monitor OC every time I install new graphics card drivers... are there drivers with the custom res already put in it? So I can just download it and use it? Guide?


----------



## Zen00

A guy posted one a few pages back (I'm using 50 posts per page). Back when everyone was scrambling to fix the monitor drivers after the WinX update. I believe it only works with Nvidia though.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> A guy posted one a few pages back (I'm using 50 posts per page). Back when everyone was scrambling to fix the monitor drivers after the WinX update. I believe it only works with Nvidia though.


Ah ok then. I'll just deal with it, thanks though.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> Sometimes it's just nice to see those actual names instead of "Generic DVI Device". Also you can add custom resolutions directly to the drivers I believe, so you don't have to use CRU.


Custom resolutions are EDID overrides that have nothing to do with monitor drivers, which are simply descriptive .inf files, but more with low-level display protocols whereby the display informs the signal generator (in this case the graphics card) what modes it supports and the generator then proceeds to transmit in a format the display can show. EDID overrides inform the graphics driver to ignore the EDID sent over by the monitor and instead drive resolutions and refresh rates defined by the overriding EDIDs. CRU is a text editor that generates such EDIDs. NvCP custom resolutions also generate EDIDs that the graphics card uses to output what the monitor doesn't normally report.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Oh interesting, I didn't know about the custom resolution bit. That would be really nice to not have to re-accomplish my monitor OC every time I install new graphics card drivers... are there drivers with the custom res already put in it? So I can just download it and use it? Guide?


The only way you can make custom resolutions persist beyond GPU drivers and Windows registry (CRU) is to flash a custom EDID to the monitor specifying the custom resolutions you would like the monitor to report. This most likely requires booting a Linux distribution, not Windows, and is somewhat involved to perform. Also, there's always a risk that you would choose a refresh rate that's too high now or later on, as your monitor ages (if you're overclocking within an inch of your monitor's life), so Windows might default to the higher refresh rate that is unstable and you would get artifacts at best (or a corrupted signal at worst). Of course, that's assuming you don't have a secondary monitor to remedy the situation. It's the same risk as flashing a vBIOS to a GPU. You might flash voltages and clockspeeds that are / become unstable later on (although monitor overclocking is a much simpler and more robust practice). CRU and NvCP custom resolutions offer the same peace of mind a software GPU overclocking tool offers.


----------



## donkaloo

Hey, do you guys think these monitors are still worth it even today? I've been shopping around for a monitor lately and came across one on amazon for $200(https://www.amazon.com/QX2710-Evolution-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-Monitor/dp/B06XGSLNDQ).

I know it's a bit of a gamble these days because of the newer ones having PWM dimming, but looking through some of this thread some pages back another poster bought one of these from this seller and ended up with an L02 without PWM dimming. And I'm aware DVI is on its way out, but I haven't been able to find high refresh rate IPS/PLS monitors without paying 600~ dollars. I've checked around for some of the other overclockable IPS/PLS monitors but I wasn't able to find any for sale that didn't have ridiculous shipping fees.

I've messaged the amazon seller to see if he had any insight on which panels he's currently selling, but no response yet.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donkaloo*
> 
> but I haven't been able to find high refresh rate IPS/PLS monitors without paying 600~ dollars.


Crossover Fast 144:
http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m4084.l1313&_nkw=crossover+fast

Nixeus EDG 27:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071G6PGP7/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500911918&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Nixeus+edg+27&dpPl=1&dpID=411EDNyFL6L&ref=plSrch


----------



## donkaloo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Crossover Fast 144:
> http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m4084.l1313&_nkw=crossover+fast
> 
> Nixeus EDG 27:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071G6PGP7/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500911918&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Nixeus+edg+27&dpPl=1&dpID=411EDNyFL6L&ref=plSrch


Wow thank you, I wasn't aware of these.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donkaloo*
> 
> Wow thank you, I wasn't aware of these.


You're welcome!


----------



## donkaloo

The seller of this qnix 2710 responded to me saying the current panels being used is M270DAN01.0 , but from what I've read I've only seen mentions of LTM270DL## in qnix 2710s(dvi only) with regards to the PWM dimming.

This seems to the be the panel used in the multi input 2710s, but the amazon link advertises a single dual link DVI input. Is this M270DAN01.0 panel reason enough to stay away from this monitor for overclocking?


----------



## LazarusIV

So I've just re-overclocked my display, got everything set to 96Hz using the steps in the OP. Go to test the UFO frame skipping and it reports my refresh rate as 60Hz... Everything is set to 96Hz and the 96Hz CRU profile is listed first so Windows defaults to that, which it shows. What the heck? This is with the new AMD driver 17.7.2 that just got released. Do I need to wait for a bit, is there a change needed for the new driver?


----------



## milan616

nm


----------



## Forceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> So I've just re-overclocked my display, got everything set to 96Hz using the steps in the OP. Go to test the UFO frame skipping and it reports my refresh rate as 60Hz... Everything is set to 96Hz and the 96Hz CRU profile is listed first so Windows defaults to that, which it shows. What the heck? This is with the new AMD driver 17.7.2 that just got released. Do I need to wait for a bit, is there a change needed for the new driver?


Don't you still need to run the patcher for AMD? Or did you do that and it still doesn't work?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> Don't you still need to run the patcher for AMD? Or did you do that and it still doesn't work?


Did that, still not testing on the website ok ... Not sure what's up!


----------



## Zen00

I believe that UFO won't report properly if you use Firefox or Chrome. Test using IE to get actual results.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zen00*
> 
> I believe that UFO won't report properly if you use Firefox or Chrome. Test using IE to get actual results.


Ugh, no thanks. I know it worked, I just like to verify with the UFO test. Ah well, I trust my eyes! Thanks!


----------



## uncleshady

I resolved this by NOT installing any special monitor drivers and allowing Windows to install its own. 96hz holds on test ufo now. Easiest way to do this is to run DDU to clean your drivers out in safe mode, reboot, install new drivers, reboot. then run DDU in regular mode and hit the box to turn windows hardware detection back on outside of safe mode. Then go to device manager and delete your monitor's drivers. Reboot. Windows will pick up the right generic ones for WIN 10 and then set it in Nvidia control panel. SHould be good.


----------



## Screemi

After a thunderstrom two nights ago my xstar dp2710 died. Yesterday i had some issues getting it to work but after a couple oft tries it worked and i didnt turn it oft the whole day. Today i wanted to geht back to work again and the monitor didnt Start at all. As soon as i pressed the power button i heard a Buzzing noise and the backlight didn't fire up and just flashed, the powerled was turning in and oft rappidly. Tried to geht it on Film but it didnt work out very well.











Disassambled it today and it lools like my Main PCB is broken. Made photos of the Main PCB and the Inverter. The last pictures show the power plane next to the power Jack. Its kind of discoloured on the front and the back.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1b6g8a-ixEvUVhrem9pTGNiRjA

Looks like i need a new Main PCB but i cant find any dpl 2560 ls. They have been listed on eBay in the last but they arnt anymore. Does anybody know a source where i can geht one. Or dies anybody have a PCB lying around? Maybe even a Overlord PCB?


----------



## yasamoka

@Zahix


----------



## Screemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> @Zahix


you mean i could geht one feom him?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screemi*
> 
> you mean i could geht one feom him?


I thought he had a PCB that was compatible but it turned out he didn't. Sorry!


----------



## Screemi

Oh what a pitty. But still THX for your hell!


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screemi*
> 
> Oh what a pitty. But still THX for your hell!


Glad I could hell lmao


----------



## Screemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Glad I could hell lmao


rofl. German autocorrection. Hell means bright.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Hey all,

I have two qx2710's I'm attempting to run at 5120x1440. I have one monitor hooked up to each of my GTX 980's. The monitor will will power off at random while gaming or performing everyday tasks. Anyone had any issues with this?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I have two qx2710's I'm attempting to run at 5120x1440. I have one monitor hooked up to each of my GTX 980's. The monitor will will power off at random while gaming or performing everyday tasks. Anyone had any issues with this?


With nVidia you have to hook both to the primary graphics card. I'm almost positive of that


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> With nVidia you have to hook both to the primary graphics card. I'm almost positive of that


That requirement is for AMD, not Nvidia. Nvidia has been able to run cards across multiple GPUs for years. They even recommend doing so for triple-monitor setups, for example, when there aren't enough display interfaces on the primary GPU to provide all three with a signal.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That requirement is for AMD, not Nvidia. Nvidia has been able to run cards across multiple GPUs for years. They even recommend doing so for triple-monitor setups, for example, when there aren't enough display interfaces on the primary GPU to provide all three with a signal.


Aaaah ok... Had it reversed! My bad.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> With nVidia you have to hook both to the primary graphics card. I'm almost positive of that


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That requirement is for AMD, not Nvidia. Nvidia has been able to run cards across multiple GPUs for years. They even recommend doing so for triple-monitor setups, for example, when there aren't enough display interfaces on the primary GPU to provide all three with a signal.


I just had to swap DVI cables and had no issue after.

I have one monitor plugged into each card and I am able to run Eve at 5120x1440.


----------



## Xizel14

My plastic bezel popped off from the panel. Anyone know how to fix it?


----------



## Some Tech Nub

It's just held in with clips I think.


----------



## drazah

Yesterday while playing GW2, my monitor did something very strange.

Out of no where, the whole monitor dimmed down except for (what it seams) one backlight led at the very top center of the screen. After a while, the screen flickered a few times and then the screen went back to normal but that top backlight led is now dimmed and it looks like a deadspot. The screen still works, but it is extremely dark.

I saw some pictures in this thread from a while ago with the same problem. My monitor is only about a year old, I'm going to open it up today and see if the backlight connecter is loose, if not I guess Ill be getting a new monitor


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Anyone know what to look for when buying a DVI-D cable, or if it even matters with these?

I've been running my monitor for years at 110Hz, it shows a green line or two extremely occasionally, like once every hour or so, it's never been enough to bother me. It will do 120Hz and maybe a little more, but the green lines start to become a lot more apparent and it isn't really usable. I'm looking at buying a better DVI-D cable if it will help get 120Hz without lines, I've just been using the one that came in the box.

Thanks.


----------



## drazah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Anyone know what to look for when buying a DVI-D cable, or if it even matters with these?
> 
> I've been running my monitor for years at 110Hz, it shows a green line or two extremely occasionally, like once every hour or so, it's never been enough to bother me. It will do 120Hz and maybe a little more, but the green lines start to become a lot more apparent and it isn't really usable. I'm looking at buying a better DVI-D cable if it will help get 120Hz without lines, I've just been using the one that came in the box.
> 
> Thanks.


Sounds like dead pixels or something in the LCD itself. You can try changing out the cable but doubt that may be it. I have had this exact issue with a few monitors and a lot of TVs I've had had this exact issue.

You can try running a dead pixel test (on youtube) where it just shifts through different colors and hopefully stabilizes the pixel. If you can also, plug in another monitor and if that monitor gets the same green line then you know its something from your computer or possibly cable.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drazah*
> 
> Sounds like dead pixels or something in the LCD itself. You can try changing out the cable but doubt that may be it. I have had this exact issue with a few monitors and a lot of TVs I've had had this exact issue.
> 
> You can try running a dead pixel test (on youtube) where it just shifts through different colors and hopefully stabilizes the pixel. If you can also, plug in another monitor and if that monitor gets the same green line then you know its something from your computer or possibly cable.


It's got no problems at all with dead pixels, which I'm extremely thankful for. Only 'issue' it's got is the very occasional artifacting when overclocking, was just wondering if a better cable would allow a higher OC.


----------



## drazah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> It's got no problems at all with dead pixels, which I'm extremely thankful for. Only 'issue' it's got is the very occasional artifacting when overclocking, was just wondering if a better cable would allow a higher OC.


Okay, I was thinking that it was artifacting also but I highly doubt a better cable would allow a higher OC. I don't know much about overclocking monitors so can't really comment on it.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Anyone know what to look for when buying a DVI-D cable, or if it even matters with these?
> 
> I've been running my monitor for years at 110Hz, it shows a green line or two extremely occasionally, like once every hour or so, it's never been enough to bother me. It will do 120Hz and maybe a little more, but the green lines start to become a lot more apparent and it isn't really usable. I'm looking at buying a better DVI-D cable if it will help get 120Hz without lines, I've just been using the one that came in the box.
> 
> Thanks.


A short, thick cable could help, but only a few Hz at most. If you're at the edge of a stable OC, such a cable might or might not help. Try a 1-foot cable with the thickest size you can find.

A few years back, I bought three and was able to overclock to a stable 117Hz as opposed to 115Hz with the stock cable. Now, I didn't test long-term stability at 115Hz and 117Hz, but it was very obvious that while the stock cable exhibited issues at 117Hz in a short time, one of the short cables did not, and I remember not seeing any artifacts during my time of testing. I don't remember experimenting with the other two short cables, as I run my monitor at 110Hz while gaming anyway.


----------



## Haas360

Hey guys, I know this might have come up earlier in the thread but, I had my Qnix go out. When It receives Video input, it makes a popping sound and the power light flickers on off. Now with no Video Input it works fine. Its not the GPU as I have a 2nd qnix that is working just fine. Ideas?


----------



## usernamedesired

First post for me and requiring help.

Recently bought a qnix monitor 2nd hand. Arrived and all seem well.

Tested it on one machine and monitor seemed perfect no dead pixels at all and very little backlight bleed. The only issue was the panel had slipped down slightly, maybe 1mm or 2 or so but means the blue bar under the active windows tab is barely visible.

Packed the monitor back up and took up home and when fired up on main machine immediately noticed the big dark bottom right hand corner. Im sure it wasnt there before as i would of noticed. Pretty gutted.

Was packaged well when it traveled with me and shouldn't of took any knocks or bangs.
when I arrived home I unpacked it and gave it a quick wipe down with a damp cloth as it was filthy then set it up to find the horrible dark bottom right hand corner. extending almost to the top of the right hand side.

Can anyone suggest what may be causing this and if its fixable? Could it be damaged by moisture from wiping it down and seeping into the bezel?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *usernamedesired*
> 
> First post for me and requiring help.
> 
> Recently bought a qnix monitor 2nd hand. Arrived and all seem well.
> 
> Tested it on one machine and monitor seemed perfect no dead pixels at all and very little backlight bleed. The only issue was the panel had slipped down slightly, maybe 1mm or 2 or so but means the blue bar under the active windows tab is barely visible.
> 
> Packed the monitor back up and took up home and when fired up on main machine immediately noticed the big dark bottom right hand corner. Im sure it wasnt there before as i would of noticed. Pretty gutted.
> 
> Was packaged well when it traveled with me and shouldn't of took any knocks or bangs.
> when I arrived home I unpacked it and gave it a quick wipe down with a damp cloth as it was filthy then set it up to find the horrible dark bottom right hand corner. extending almost to the top of the right hand side.
> 
> Can anyone suggest what may be causing this and if its fixable? Could it be damaged by moisture from wiping it down and seeping into the bezel?


That's an LED in the backlight that turned off. There's a chance it's just the backlight power cable was dislodged thus not powering all the LEDs. There's little chance of actual damage happening to the LED itself. Open it up and inspect the cables if you are able / willing to.


----------



## drazah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *usernamedesired*
> 
> First post for me and requiring help.
> 
> Recently bought a qnix monitor 2nd hand. Arrived and all seem well.
> 
> Tested it on one machine and monitor seemed perfect no dead pixels at all and very little backlight bleed. The only issue was the panel had slipped down slightly, maybe 1mm or 2 or so but means the blue bar under the active windows tab is barely visible.
> 
> Packed the monitor back up and took up home and when fired up on main machine immediately noticed the big dark bottom right hand corner. Im sure it wasnt there before as i would of noticed. Pretty gutted.
> 
> Was packaged well when it traveled with me and shouldn't of took any knocks or bangs.
> when I arrived home I unpacked it and gave it a quick wipe down with a damp cloth as it was filthy then set it up to find the horrible dark bottom right hand corner. extending almost to the top of the right hand side.
> 
> Can anyone suggest what may be causing this and if its fixable? Could it be damaged by moisture from wiping it down and seeping into the bezel?


Literally just had the same exact thing happen to me but it was only 1 LED at the very top center of my screen.

I completely disassembled the monitor to check the cables. I unplugged everything and plugged them back in and made sure it was all secure. After reassemble it was no different, I'm assuming the backlit LED itself just went. Had my Qnix for about 13 months, going with a better grade for my next monitor.


----------



## Screemi

It looks like my PSU just died. Here in germany it's hard replacement with exact the same part number. so i was looking for other psu with 12V and 5A and i found several. the problem is that i can't find the inner and outer diameter of the plug. there are several different diameters on the market.

i found a pretty good one from leikcke. they tell you exactly which size the plug has:

https://www.amazon.de/Netzteil-Bildschirm-Monitor-Festplatten-Pico-PSU/dp/B001W3UYLY




maybe someone could measure the dimensions of the plug with a calliper and post the measurements or even better would be a spec sheet of the original M120500P911.

€dit: i found another seller on amazon.com which sells a psu with the same model-name:https://www.amazon.com/Switching-Desktop-Adapter-5-5x2-1mm-Security/dp/B072JXJD4N

they the it has a 5.5mm outer and a 2.1mm inner diameter. so the outer diameter are the same but the inner is .4mm smaller.

the problem is that it looks very similar to the one qnix or xstar provide.

Amazon:



Original:



what do u think.


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR

Whats the best buy 1440p ~100hz now?


----------



## usernamedesired

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> That's an LED in the backlight that turned off. There's a chance it's just the backlight power cable was dislodged thus not powering all the LEDs. There's little chance of actual damage happening to the LED itself. Open it up and inspect the cables if you are able / willing to.


Little update, Ran the monitor for a couple days with the dark corner while pondering. Problem is I have just moved to a new city shoebox flat with no tools etc, so was going to take it a 2 hour bus drive back to the parents house to fix it there but went and bought some £1 srewdrivers and had a go at it at my bed after watching the youtube dismantle videos.

The bezel took a bit of time to free off but came in the end. Pulled panel up, Saw LED backlight connecter and gave it a prod with the screwdriver, It made a resounding click like it pushed in and i thought goody that was it. Plugged in etc and still there.

Back out again and took connecter out, Plugged back in but this time without a resounding click, Back out again and back in with a resounding click on the 2nd time. (Had it in and out so many times i almost felt obliged to shake it all about)

Plugged monitor in and saw the post screen with no dark corner and google confirmed. No more dark corner.



Incredibly happy, Even more so that i bought the monitor for £50 off ebay. Nobody else bid on it as the guy listed it terribly and i took a gamble but has paid off.

The only problem is I have created some backlight bleed in the bottom centre but I am not too fussed about that as its only noticeable on a full back screen but the main problem is the panel has sunk down in the middle. For example windows 10 taskbar has the blue underline under open programs, In the middle the panel sinks below the bezel by about 2mm which means that blue underbar disappears in the centre and obviously creates a black 2mm bar at the top from screen to bezel.

Its barely noticeable and i may leave it as i dont want to break anything else taking stuff apart.

Thanks Yasamoka for the hint. Turns out that was it.

Now just to wait on a decent GPU at a sensible price.


----------



## Zen00

Very nice buy for $50.









What's it overclock like?


----------



## usernamedesired

Havent really tested to the max. Bumped it to 96hz on my brothers pc with a gtx 960, ran the ufo test and all seemed good, didnt try anything further.
I think its the stock DVI cable as it doesnt seem that great. Do people really recommend going for a 24AWG cable?


----------



## yasamoka

@usernamedesired
Glad you got it sorted out!


----------



## dante`afk

Is there any PSU that does not get crazy hot?

My second PSU within 1.5 years died just now and I have to get another one.


----------



## Screemi

buy a psu with higher amperage then 5A. the Montior will only draw as much as it needs but the PSU has more headroom and won't get so hot.

i bought one with 7A which can deliver 74W instead of 60W like the Original is labeled for.


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screemi*
> 
> buy a psu with higher amperage then 5A. the Montior will only draw as much as it needs but the PSU has more headroom and won't get so hot.
> 
> i bought one with 7A which can deliver 74W instead of 60W like the Original is labeled for.


can you link it?

would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Regulated-Switching-Replacement-Household-Electronics/dp/B015PXUHYA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504810096&sr=1-2&keywords=ac+adapter+7v


----------



## Screemi

That one will blow up in your face immediately







it only has 1A.

https://www.amazon.com/s/field-keywords=12v+7a+5%2C5mm

Pick one of those with good reviews and at least 5A/5000mA. 6-7A/6000-7000mA would be even better.


----------



## vinnik

Hello. I'm new to this whole korean monitor thing and I wonder which monitor you suggest to buy now?

I read A LOT of pages of the thread but can't find out, what most of you'd suggest if I want to buy a monitor NOW.

The X-Star DP2710 seems to have everything I want but is quite old. I want 1440p, 27", IPS (not TN panel - PLS etc is fine). And for me 120hz are very important. So the monitor should be overclockable and work well!

THANKS A LOT


----------



## Dreemlan

When I try to install the driver, it says that I already have the latest driver?

Edit: Nevermind, wasn't following the instructions correctly. I then got a paramter incorrect error when trying to install, but finally got it installed using

QNIX2710newW10driver.zip 2k .zip file


and disabling driver integrity reinforcement.


----------



## vinnik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreemlan*
> 
> When I try to install the driver, it says that I already have the latest driver?
> 
> Edit: Nevermind, wasn't following the instructions correctly. I then got a paramter incorrect error when trying to install, but finally got it installed using
> 
> QNIX2710newW10driver.zip 2k .zip file
> 
> 
> and disabling driver integrity reinforcement.


Did you just buy the monitor? Did you try to overclock it? Aaand from which seller did you buy it?


----------



## Quisp

Hello again-

I thought I'd give a third update regarding my three X-Star purchases from September, 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21860#post_23169288

After three years of ownership and continuous usage, my three X-Stars are still working just fine...No issues to report...









All monitors are powered up 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.

OS: Windows 10 Pro v.1703
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified (x2)


----------



## c0nsistent

My QNIX 2710 just died yesterday while gaming @ 120hz. I ran it just fine at 120hz for years but it finally bit the dust after 4 years or so. If anyone can help me find a replacement board for it I'd appreciate it, because that's typically what goes out right?


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nsistent*
> 
> My QNIX 2710 just died yesterday while gaming @ 120hz. I ran it just fine at 120hz for years but it finally bit the dust after 4 years or so. If anyone can help me find a replacement board for it I'd appreciate it, because that's typically what goes out right?


Can you take it apart for an inspection first? Maybe it's an easy fix (e.g. loose cable).


----------



## Screemi

Most of the time its just the power brick. Read some pages back to find more infos. I had the same issue about a month ago. Maybe u are lucky and can find some 12v/5a+ at home like i did.


----------



## c0nsistent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screemi*
> 
> Most of the time its just the power brick. Read some pages back to find more infos. I had the same issue about a month ago. Maybe u are lucky and can find some 12v/5a+ at home like i did.


Will the green light be on on the power brick if its bad?


----------



## Screemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0nsistent*
> 
> Will the green light be on on the power brick if its bad?


mine was. I made a short clip of what happened in the beginning. One day later the monitor wouldn't turn on at all. My first thought was that some caps blew up and i took the display apart. The caps just looked fine and there weren't any chips with burn marks.










Here you can find some pictures of my PCB qnd the panel-pcb: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/mobile/folders/0B1b6g8a-ixEvUVhrem9pTGNiRjA

The darker spots on the PCB powerplane are normal and caused by higher temps over time.


----------



## roxus256

The display board finally burt out and broke on my qnix monitor but i'm having a heck of a time trying to find a replacement part for the displayland DPL-2560LS REV. 01 anyone know where i can find this part i've been looking everywhere. I've looked at ebay,amazon, google,random korean sites


----------



## Screemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roxus256*
> 
> The display board finally burt out and broke on my qnix monitor but i'm having a heck of a time trying to find a replacement part for the displayland DPL-2560LS REV. 01 anyone know where i can find this part i've been looking everywhere. I've looked at ebay,amazon, google,random korean sites


I was looking for a replacement PCB for about 2 weeks. Contacted several sellers on eBay like greensum and no one could provide a new or refurbished PCB. IMHO is the best chance to buy a display with a broken screen if you can find one and scavenge the PCB. If you could provide pictures of your PCB we could maybe help you to replace the broken components.


----------



## roxus256

Well thanks for the reply seems i'm not the only one having trouble getting this board . I have done the same thing contact multiple sellers of this product as well and everything pointing at buying a bust screen monitor and just swapping the parts, but with another new monitor costing nearly the same as the busted used monitor its hard to really pull that trigger. I guess if anyone looking for a good condition working screen for the qnix i got one and i'll sell it at a good price.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roxus256*
> 
> Well thanks for the reply seems i'm not the only one having trouble getting this board . I have done the same thing contact multiple sellers of this product as well and everything pointing at buying a bust screen monitor and just swapping the parts, but with another new monitor costing nearly the same as the busted used monitor its hard to really pull that trigger. I guess if anyone looking for a good condition working screen for the qnix i got one and i'll sell it at a good price.


This happened to me a few years ago. I had one of the early gen Qnix (2012/2013) and it died after about a year of usage. I ended up buying another Qnix (2014) which couldn't OC as high, but did not have any color shift when overclocking to about 105Hz. Since I was curious, I ended up swapping the board of the new Qnix with the dead board of the old one and I was able to overclock to 120Hz, which wasn't possible with the original board.

I suggest getting a better and cooler-running power supply for the Qnix. It should deliver cleaner power and help with the board longevity.

Here's a link to my old post about swapping the boards/panels as well as the power supply that was recommended to me:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/20910#post_22950609


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR

Can I still buy a "new to me" 27 inch overclockable 1440p qnix monitor somewhere?

EDI: Would something like this overclock to at least 80+ hz? http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-DP-Multi-Matte-27-2560x1440-Monitor-Refurbished-/131131920531?epid=1560161732&hash=item1e88125093:g:4cEAAOxyni9TFuZd


----------



## Some Tech Nub

I wouldn't push my luck with a refurb multi-input. Multi inputs have never overclocked as well as dvi-only ones, as you probably know. Especially the earlier ones. Also the dead pixel policy is pretty mediocre.

These units sound like old QNIXs that got retired from an internet cafe and are up for sale after some light seller refurbishment. If I were you, I wouldn't buy one.


----------



## Stige

Amazing, it has soon been 4 years since I bought my QNIX, just unbeliavable how good it was back then and even how good it is today even. Probably the best money ever spent on anything PC related for me.
I even ordered it as Glossy back then and found a real Glossy panel underneath the Tempered Glass on top of the monitor which seemed pretty rare back then.

Paid 320$ for it back then including shipping.


----------



## Forceman

Agreed, what a great deal.


----------



## Correalian

Hi my monitor recently burned out and I did a lot of digging around for information on how to fix it. Has anyone successfully accomplished this or know of a link about it?
I've took it apart and the only obvious damage was the mosfet (IRF540NSPbF), caps are all fine and not bulging out. No other damage on the display board either when I checked it



I've removed the mossfet and cleaned up the board the best I could and solder in a new one. The display does switch on and shows a picture but quickly then switches off again. Anyone got a clue what I need to either replace or test for?

Thanks, Corr.


----------



## Beatwolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Amazing, it has soon been 4 years since I bought my QNIX, just unbeliavable how good it was back then and even how good it is today even. Probably the best money ever spent on anything PC related for me.
> I even ordered it as Glossy back then and found a real Glossy panel underneath the Tempered Glass on top of the monitor which seemed pretty rare back then.
> 
> Paid 320$ for it back then including shipping.


Yeah it's been around the same for me (also a Qnix). The monitor has been running rock solid @ 96hz. I did upgrade the cable though. For me this is definetly also the best hardware upgrade I remember doing in recent years!


----------



## dante`afk

I can't install the qnix drives even though driver signature enforcement is disabled.

win10, any ideas?


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> I can't install the qnix drives even though driver signature enforcement is disabled.
> 
> win10, any ideas?


I never installed any drivers ever, why would you need to do that to begin with?


----------



## Khovic

Alright i have a teeny tine issue with my monitor right now,
I get Image retention at the right portion of my monitor (top and bottom), problem is , it happens when in 60hz too.
Pretty sure it didn't happen before, have my monitor for 8 months now with L02 panel.

worst thing is , my monitor handles 120hz quite easily , only because of the image retention i have to use it at 60


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khovic*
> 
> Alright i have a teeny tine issue with my monitor right now,
> I get Image retention at the right portion of my monitor (top and bottom), problem is , it happens when in 60hz too.
> Pretty sure it didn't happen before, have my monitor for 8 months now with L02 panel


Play around with the timings. Relax them or tighten them and see if the effect changes. Test at 60Hz only (you will get worse image retention at higher refresh rates on the desktop).


----------



## Khovic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Play around with the timings. Relax them or tighten them and see if the effect changes. Test at 60Hz only (you will get worse image retention at higher refresh rates on the desktop).


I have tried, currently pixel clock at 240mhz and I still get retention.
Pretty absurd.


----------



## Mr1plumrich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> I can't install the qnix drives even though driver signature enforcement is disabled.
> 
> win10, any ideas?


Are you getting the "wrong parameter" error?
The driver in the OP is not up to date. Windows 10 creator update changed something. Updated and working driver is here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I never installed any drivers ever, why would you need to do that to begin with?


Because otherwise the overclock doesn't work in games when using the method for NvidiA.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khovic*
> 
> I have tried, currently pixel clock at 240mhz and I still get retention.
> Pretty absurd.


Don't focus on the pixel clock. You're at 60Hz. The pixel clock is already low enough for it not to matter. Instead, try LCD Standard, LCD Reduced, Manual timings, etc... and see if there is a difference. First of all, revert back to stock settings and test there if you have tweaked 60Hz before.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr1plumrich*
> 
> Are you getting the "wrong parameter" error?
> The driver in the OP is not up to date. Windows 10 creator update changed something. Updated and working driver is here.
> Because otherwise the overclock doesn't work in games when using the method for NvidiA.


GTX 980 here. Just set a custom resolution in nvcp and all is well. Although iirc maybe you need the driver for older nvidia cards? I dont quite remember myself.


----------



## KHibs

Did something change between Nvidia drivers 385.28 and the latest driver, 388.00? As I cannot change the refresh rate any longer in the Nvidia control panel for custom resolutions. It's just greyed out whether it's in automatic or manual. Locked to 59.000 - 61.000 Hz

Never mind, I'm an idiot. Been a while since I OC'd the monitor again and I was trying to use the wrong settings, whoops.


----------



## Screemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Correalian*
> 
> Hi my monitor recently burned out and I did a lot of digging around for information on how to fix it. Has anyone successfully accomplished this or know of a link about it?
> I've took it apart and the only obvious damage was the mosfet (IRF540NSPbF), caps are all fine and not bulging out. No other damage on the display board either when I checked it
> 
> 
> 
> I've removed the mossfet and cleaned up the board the best I could and solder in a new one. The display does switch on and shows a picture but quickly then switches off again. Anyone got a clue what I need to either replace or test for?
> 
> Thanks, Corr.


i would give a different powerbrick a try. Had similar issues. A view pages back i linked some and on this page someone linked to an older post with an alternate psu.


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys I am still loving the Xstar. But the tilt likes to sag all the time. Not a huge deal but annoying, I was going to stick a shim in there but its too tight, anyone figured out a fix?


----------



## Abadaman

Anyone here successfully running amd rx vega 56/64 with qnix qx2710? Thinking about upgrading to amd vega and just found out that it lacks dvi-d.

Looks like this cable might work with it ( https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 ), but i wonder if it can take hdmi extension blocks through CRU to enable freesync support.


----------



## Neromid

Hey guys, I think I need some help.

I got an X-Star 2710 for about a year now, and while nice overall it had some major backlight bleeding in the bottom center, which drove me mad.
So I finally got around to fix it with the tape mod... And probably bricked the monitor, welp.

What I did:

1. Took the bezel off
2. Disconnected the main (big) cable, the one right next to it and the one on the button circuit board
3. Rested the panel on table, disassembled the metal bars (left and right side were OK, the bottom side covering the circuit on the panel had a major dent)
4. Straightened the metal bars, then applied electrical tape on all sides physically touching the panel
5. Reinstalled the metal bars on the panel.
6. Plugged all cables back in
7. Put the bezel back on.

Now, when Power and DVI is plugged back in, I get a black screen. The LED flashes red for one second when plugging the power cable in, but that's it. I cannot turn the monitor on and no blue LED appears, ever. Strangely enough, the monitor is still recognized by windows.

So, thinking I probably covered some contacts with electrical tape, I disassembled the monitor again and removed the tape completely.
But no dice, the monitor still doesn't turn on.

Does anyone have an idea what might be at fault?

//UPDATE:

We did manage to get the monitor back alive... Sort of, in a way.

We plugged out the button circuit from its seat (still connected), so it was floating freely.
Then, while the monitor was open, we connected the power cable so electricity was flowing.

Since none of the buttons worked, we tested the voltage on the buttons with a power meter.
The first combination (button 1+2) had no electricity. The combination 1+3 and 1+4 did have electricity.

Nothing happened so far. The LED still briefly glowed red on connection, then went dark

Suddenly, when testing button 1 + the power button, the LED suddenly went blue and started blinking in red afterwards.

So, we reassembled the monitor and hooked it back up on my pc, and the damn thing works!

... Except any the buttons, hah.
The monitor displays just fine, but none of the buttons work.

I may now have the dumbest monitor there is, but at least the damn thing works and I definitely won't tinker with it again.


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neromid*
> 
> Hey guys, I think I need some help.
> 
> I got an X-Star 2710 for about a year now, and while nice overall it had some major backlight bleeding in the bottom center, which drove me mad.
> So I finally got around to fix it with the tape mod... And probably bricked the monitor, welp.
> 
> What I did:
> 
> 1. Took the bezel off
> 2. Disconnected the main (big) cable, the one right next to it and the one on the button circuit board
> 3. Rested the panel on table, disassembled the metal bars (left and right side were OK, the bottom side covering the circuit on the panel had a major dent)
> 4. Straightened the metal bars, then applied electrical tape on all sides physically touching the panel
> 5. Reinstalled the metal bars on the panel.
> 6. Plugged all cables back in
> 7. Put the bezel back on.
> 
> Now, when Power and DVI is plugged back in, I get a black screen. The LED flashes red for one second when plugging the power cable in, but that's it. I cannot turn the monitor on and no blue LED appears, ever. Strangely enough, the monitor is still recognized by windows.
> 
> So, thinking I probably covered some contacts with electrical tape, I disassembled the monitor again and removed the tape completely.
> But no dice, the monitor still doesn't turn on.
> 
> Does anyone have an idea what might be at fault?


Hello, few years ago i bricked and damaged the panel through the same method you used. I hope the same hasnt happenned to you. I would like to slap the guy that put out that dangerous ,,guide,, to remove the backlight bleeding by opening up the panel, it is dangerous and i personally know few people that damaged their panel by doing this method that honestly doesnt even work (there are other methods to reduce the blb and they dont involve opening up the panel, just the plastic cover.

I really hope it is in some cables and that you havent damaged the panel itself, as me three years ago.

Just try to reconnect all the cables, maybe the problem is in the small cable that connects to panel from the right bottom.

Let us know if you found a way to fix your monitor


----------



## Correalian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Screemi*
> 
> i would give a different powerbrick a try. Had similar issues. A view pages back i linked some and on this page someone linked to an older post with an alternate psu.


Aye the power brick for it was dead so I bought a much better one to get it to at least boot up for that quick second or two. Waiting on some parts to arrive then will have another go at it.


----------



## Neromid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abadaman*
> 
> Hello, few years ago i bricked and damaged the panel through the same method you used. I hope the same hasnt happenned to you. I would like to slap the guy that put out that dangerous ,,guide,, to remove the backlight bleeding by opening up the panel, it is dangerous and i personally know few people that damaged their panel by doing this method that honestly doesnt even work (there are other methods to reduce the blb and they dont involve opening up the panel, just the plastic cover.
> 
> I really hope it is in some cables and that you havent damaged the panel itself, as me three years ago.
> 
> Just try to reconnect all the cables, maybe the problem is in the small cable that connects to panel from the right bottom.
> 
> Let us know if you found a way to fix your monitor


Thanks for the kind words, they did in fact help. See the update if you care.


----------



## dante`afk

snow effect with new nvidia drivers?


----------



## bluedevil

Trying to figure out if am crazy for wanting to go Ultrawide 100hz and get rid of my Qnix QX2710 @ 115hz.


----------



## boykisser

Bought my Qnix QX2710 back in 2013.
Just now it just shut off by itself for the first time. Red LED is blinking but no image. Turning off and on again doesn't work.

I'm thinking it's a power supply issue. The stock PSU is 12v 5A. Are there any advantages of getting a PSU that supplies 6 or 7A? Maybe higher overclock because I was only able to hit 96 without frame skipping

Edit: Nevermind, what happened was Nvidia Geforce somehow automatically downloaded and installed new drivers without my consent, in the middle of me playing a game. The new drivers unsigned the patched pixel clocks and my Qnix was no longer able to run at 96Hz, thus black screen.
Good ******* job, Nvidia. Geforce experience isn't worth installing tbh.


----------



## Skye12977

Does anyone know if the AC Adapter for the 27" Qnix 1440p Monitor DVI only is the same as the Multi-port one?

Or would you be willing to look at your power brick and tell me what yours says?

Old one that went bad:

Brand: MOSTCN

Model: m120500p911

Input:100-240V~50/60Hz 1.2A

Output:12V 5000mA



"Power CORD AC adapter for QNIX QX2710 Evolution II 27" Samsung PLS Monitor 110V"

The new one that was bought:

Brand: Power

Model: t-uv-12-5

Input: 100-240V 50~60Hz 1.0~1.5A

Output: 11V~13V 4A~6A

Am I going to be able to use this new one?

Did I somehow have/was I sent the wrong one?

Curious before I attempt to use it and kill my debezeled screen.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

I haven't seen a brick PSU with a voltage and amperage range. Must be some really cheap stuff lol.

Specwise I'd assume its compatible, but it would be nice for other people to look over it as well.


----------



## kaiju

Mine finally died after 4 years use at 110hz. RIP.

Not sure what is worth getting now, everything seems so bloody expensive LOL


----------



## Seafodder

I finally "retired" mine this past week. Replaced it with an Asus PG348Q. Well, it's on vacation if not retired until my new rig arrives at which time my old rig along with the Qnix will be passed on to my granddaughter...

There are a lot of options out there with more coming. Right now 1080P 144 MHz widescreen panels are relatively inexpensive. You can get one of those for around $500.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seafodder*
> 
> I finally "retired" mine this past week. Replaced it with an Asus PG348Q. Well, it's on vacation if not retired until my new rig arrives at which time my old rig along with the Qnix will be passed on to my granddaughter...
> 
> There are a lot of options out there with more coming. Right now 1080P 144 MHz widescreen panels are relatively inexpensive. You can get one of those for around $500.


But going 1080p of any sort after having one of these is terrible.


----------



## kaiju

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> But going 1080p of any sort after having one of these is terrible.


I just went from 1440p too 1080p but it only took a few days to adjust and now I'm fine with 1080p. I even had to scale icons to be bigger at 1440p but I still found myself squinting. You get more real estate but I think 144hz at 1080p is the sweet spot right now as [email protected] isn't quite there yet with GPU performance.


----------



## Clouded Sun

I know this is more a PC forum, but due to the inclusion of an Nvidia GPU, does anyone know if the Nintendo Switch can be hooked up to an X-Star/QNIX?


----------



## Skye12977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> I haven't seen a brick PSU with a voltage and amperage range. Must be some really cheap stuff lol.
> 
> Specwise I'd assume its compatible, but it would be nice for other people to look over it as well.


Don't know if the one I got was bad, or if it just won't work with it.
It's also funny how the selling pages for the power brick I posted it doesn't say the specs and you also can't see them in the pictures.

I found one on Amazon that should work, and it's like 14$. Just gotta make sure it's the right plug.
https://www.amazon.com/TMEZON-100V-Switching-Security-Accessories/dp/B00MBBOWAU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511824727&sr=8-1&keywords=TMEZON+100V+-+240V+To+DC+12V+5A+Switching+Power+Supply+Adapter+Plug+Cord+For+DVR+NVR+Security+Cameras+System+CCTV+Accessories

"120V AC to 12V DC LED power supply.
Input: 100-240V AC 50/60Hz.
Output: 12V DC 5 Amp/Out put adaptor: 5.5mm x 2.1mm."


----------



## c0nsistent

My Qnix just died as well. The PCB does not have any obvious burn marks or anything, and the power brick has a green LED and i tested it with a multimeter and it was over 12v, so I figured it must be working... right?


----------



## Clouded Sun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clouded Sun*
> 
> I know this is more a PC forum, but due to the inclusion of an Nvidia GPU, does anyone know if the Nintendo Switch can be hooked up to an X-Star/QNIX?


Went ahead and bought an HDMI > DVI-D adapter and confirmed that the Nintendo Switch does NOT work with these monitors.

Disappointing. Was hoping to play Xenoblade 2 on a decent screen at college.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clouded Sun*
> 
> Went ahead and bought an HDMI > DVI-D adapter and confirmed that the Nintendo Switch does NOT work with these monitors.
> 
> Disappointing. Was hoping to play Xenoblade 2 on a decent screen at college.


Active or passive adapter?


----------



## Clouded Sun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> Active or passive adapter?


Passive. I learned the difference after I did some digging but it was too late and those things are said to be expensive.

Might as well buy another 24" monitor.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Yup, active adapters are $$$. Don't think these korean single input monitors work with passive adapters unfortunately.


----------



## flof974

[deleted]


----------



## Atomagenesis

5 years in and mine is still going strong. 120hz. No problems whatsoever.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atomagenesis*
> 
> 5 years in and mine is still going strong. 120hz. No problems whatsoever.


Have I really had this thing for 5 years? yeesh!

Mine ended up getting 2 dead pixels suddenly out of nowhere 2 months ago after a week-long vacation where it wasn't powered up at all. other than that still working great and overclocked.

GF's is a year newer and still good, no issues at all.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

2.5 years here. QNIX QX2710 Pixel Perfect @96hz. Very happy with the monitor, although as DVI-D starts becoming more and more rare I might begin looking at some 144hz AHVA 1440p panels...


----------



## NexusRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> 2.5 years here. QNIX QX2710 Pixel Perfect @96hz. Very happy with the monitor, although as DVI-D starts becoming more and more rare I might begin looking at some 144hz AHVA 1440p panels...


I hear ya. 3 years for mine. 110hz solid. Thinking about jumping to 21:9 100hz or another 16:9 144hz IPs or ahva but I don't think there is another monitor or there that will give me the same bang for your buck and excitement as that qnix.


----------



## scatlm

Hey, as far back as 2 months ago, I could still find this monitor on Ebay for around $200. And now I cant find it. I'm a happy owner going on 4 years now, and i recommended this monitor to a friend Is there an updated version of this monitor? Or is there another Korean off-brand that isa better choice now?

Thank you


----------



## Zero4549

So I just reinstalled windows and tried overclocking my x-star again and realized that I couldn't for the life of me find the updated driver ini files that work with the newer versions of windows 10 post-parameter-change.

I'm fairly sure I'm just ******ed, but just in case, I'm reposting the copy I have from my previous backup.
https://nofile.io/f/W1wwNrJpEoR/x-star.inf


----------



## Atomagenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I'm fairly sure I'm just ******ed


----------



## Clouded Sun

Just broke mine after a ride back from college (pressure damage, cracked the panel). Now, I'm struggling to find another - hopefully a listing goes up on ebay soon.

I don't wanna downgrade 2560x1440 from 96hz. Are there any other decently priced monitors that get around the same res and refresh rate?


----------



## NexusRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clouded Sun*
> 
> Just broke mine after a ride back from college (pressure damage, cracked the panel). Now, I'm struggling to find another - hopefully a listing goes up on ebay soon.
> 
> I don't wanna downgrade 2560x1440 from 96hz. Are there any other decently priced monitors that get around the same res and refresh rate?


Heard that the Crossover 27 FAST 144 FreeSync Zero is an excellent replacement. I think we have a thread here on it and the price is awesome. Dreamseller has them on eBay.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Also maybe look at the Pixio PX277-N. Thin bezels like the crossover but a wider freesync range.


----------



## UNCMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NexusRed*
> 
> Heard that the Crossover 27 FAST 144 FreeSync Zero is an excellent replacement. I think we have a thread here on it and the price is awesome. Dreamseller has them on eBay.


Stupid question here, but at 144hz, I don't really need to care about not having gsync (I have an Nvidia GPU now), correct? If the refresh rate is constantly 144hz, and I'm pumping 100 FPS, there isn't anything like tearing (when FPS > Hz)? I was looking at the dream-seller monitor and just wanted to check.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNCMan*
> 
> Stupid question here, but at 144hz, I don't really need to care about not having gsync (I have an Nvidia GPU now), correct? If the refresh rate is constantly 144hz, and I'm pumping 100 FPS, there isn't anything like tearing (when FPS > Hz)? I was looking at the dream-seller monitor and just wanted to check.


Incorrect. There will be tearing (albeit much less noticeable) and most importantly, there will be stutter due to the mismatched framerate and refresh rate. The only way to eliminate this tearing is to enable V-Sync, which adds input latency and stutter. The only way to eliminate this stutter (with or without V-Sync is to consistently hit 144FPS @ 144Hz with V-Sync enabled (which adds much input latency). The only solution for variable framerates below refresh rate regarding tearing AND stutter is G-Sync / FreeSync. As for my personal experience, I could immediately detect when G-Sync was not active regardless of the framerate. Even for framerates above 165Hz, I could immediately detect the unevenness. So, for me, it was a game changer, and I wouldn't be found dead running a high refresh rate monitor without a variable refresh rate technology. I'd argue that at *lower* refresh rates, FPS = refresh is consistently easier to hit which would mean that G-Sync / FreeSync's advantage is reduced to latency reduction (frame cap slightly below refresh rate).


----------



## UNCMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yasamoka*
> 
> Incorrect. There will be tearing (albeit much less noticeable) and most importantly, there will be stutter due to the mismatched framerate and refresh rate. The only way to eliminate this tearing is to enable V-Sync, which adds input latency and stutter. The only way to eliminate this stutter (with or without V-Sync is to consistently hit 144FPS @ 144Hz with V-Sync enabled (which adds much input latency). The only solution for variable framerates below refresh rate regarding tearing AND stutter is G-Sync / FreeSync. As for my personal experience, I could immediately detect when G-Sync was not active regardless of the framerate. Even for framerates above 165Hz, I could immediately detect the unevenness. So, for me, it was a game changer, and I wouldn't be found dead running a high refresh rate monitor without a variable refresh rate technology. I'd argue that at *lower* refresh rates, FPS = refresh is consistently easier to hit which would mean that G-Sync / FreeSync's advantage is reduced to latency reduction (frame cap slightly below refresh rate).


Awesome! That's exactly what I was for! I tried to overclock my QNIX and had problems, but for two minutes, (even at 90hz) the higher refresh rate was very noticeable.

So now I know what to look for. I want 1440p, IPS, AND high-refresh, so I'm in an expensive niche it looks like.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNCMan*
> 
> Awesome! That's exactly what I was for! I tried to overclock my QNIX and had problems, but for two minutes, (even at 90hz) the higher refresh rate was very noticeable.
> 
> So now I know what to look for. I want 1440p, IPS, AND high-refresh, so I'm in an expensive niche it looks like.


You can find the Nixeus EDG 27 and Pixio PX277 for about $400. These are 1440p 144Hz AHVA (IPS-like) FreeSync monitors, great if you have an AMD card. For G-Sync, if you have an Nvidia card, you'll have to go for the Acer XB271HU, Asus PG279Q, or Viewsonic XG2703-GS (the one I have), the cheapest of which is usually $700 (recently, they've been swapping price positions). The Asus PG279Q was on discount for about $535 or $550 on Black Friday. I got the XG-2703GS for about $700 from the UK back in August-September (excluding shipping).

Monitors are long-term investments and I wouldn't cheap out on one particularly if it were to omit VRR technologies which are the obvious (and necessary) way forward. In my opinion, currently, what can kill off a monitor faster than lower resolution or lower refresh rate is the absence of such a technology. Remember, we've been on 1080p (started out as 1200p) for close to a decade if not more. It still is a fairly good resolution for gaming if you don't want to opt for a top-end GPU. 1440p 144Hz monitors are not going away any time soon, nor are they going to be obsolete. They will simply move down a few notches in the upcoming years of service. Couple that with G-Sync / FreeSync and the gaming experience will still be fantastic regardless of what's out there after a few years.


----------



## TryHart

Hi. So, did my GPU just eat my monitor?

I've got a Qnix 2710 DVI-D matte, and it was working up until about an hour ago. The only thing that changed is that I upgraded by GPU from my Sapphire Tri-X R9 390x to an Aorus GTX 1080. Now, that would normally be grounds for celebration, except my monitor now cycles through red green, blue, black and white for a couple of minutes when I switch on, then it turns itself off and refuses to come back on again.

I know my GPU is working, because I've got my graphics tablet plugged into the HDMI and I'm using that right now to type this. I don't have any other DVI-D devices to test the monitor on, and the only posts I can find about the problem are either unresolved or people suggesting the monitor is dead.

So, did My GPU kill my monitor through some kind of power spike? Does my GPU have a dud DVI-D port? Is there some kind of animal sacrifice I can make to make my expensive tech play nicely again?

Specs:
Win 10
Qnix 2710 Evo II matte
Aorus GTX 1080 (latest drivers installed, problem was present even with no drivers)
Ryzen 7 1700
Gigabyte AB350 Gaming


----------



## Mike-IRL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TryHart*
> 
> Hi. So, did my GPU just eat my monitor?
> 
> I've got a Qnix 2710 DVI-D matte, and it was working up until about an hour ago. The only thing that changed is that I upgraded by GPU from my Sapphire Tri-X R9 390x to an Aorus GTX 1080. Now, that would normally be grounds for celebration, except my monitor now cycles through red green, blue, black and white for a couple of minutes when I switch on, then it turns itself off and refuses to come back on again.
> 
> I know my GPU is working, because I've got my graphics tablet plugged into the HDMI and I'm using that right now to type this. I don't have any other DVI-D devices to test the monitor on, and the only posts I can find about the problem are either unresolved or people suggesting the monitor is dead.
> 
> So, did My GPU kill my monitor through some kind of power spike? Does my GPU have a dud DVI-D port? Is there some kind of animal sacrifice I can make to make my expensive tech play nicely again?
> 
> Specs:
> Win 10
> Qnix 2710 Evo II matte
> Aorus GTX 1080 (latest drivers installed, problem was present even with no drivers)
> Ryzen 7 1700
> Gigabyte AB350 Gaming


Any chance you have one of the internal ports hooked up to your tablet?
I just checked the product page and it lists two modes, apparently it detects ports in use when booting so disconnecting the tablet and restarting should resolve it if it has to do with VR mode.
Otherwise, had you any custom resolutions or things like that set up on the AMD card? If so, maybe they're messing with it.

Could be a load of other things but give it a try if you haven't already.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TryHart*
> 
> Hi. So, did my GPU just eat my monitor?
> 
> I've got a Qnix 2710 DVI-D matte, and it was working up until about an hour ago. The only thing that changed is that I upgraded by GPU from my Sapphire Tri-X R9 390x to an Aorus GTX 1080. Now, that would normally be grounds for celebration, except my monitor now cycles through red green, blue, black and white for a couple of minutes when I switch on, then it turns itself off and refuses to come back on again.
> 
> I know my GPU is working, because I've got my graphics tablet plugged into the HDMI and I'm using that right now to type this. I don't have any other DVI-D devices to test the monitor on, and the only posts I can find about the problem are either unresolved or people suggesting the monitor is dead.
> 
> So, did My GPU kill my monitor through some kind of power spike? Does my GPU have a dud DVI-D port? Is there some kind of animal sacrifice I can make to make my expensive tech play nicely again?
> 
> Specs:
> Win 10
> Qnix 2710 Evo II matte
> Aorus GTX 1080 (latest drivers installed, problem was present even with no drivers)
> Ryzen 7 1700
> Gigabyte AB350 Gaming


Any chance that one or more of your PCI-E cables could be loose? I had a non-secure ground cable from my PSU to PCI-E extensions, which would cause my 1080Ti to shut off the monitor and cycle through the test mode (same colors as you described). I would still hear audio from videos or games but would not get anything to display until I rebooted my computer. Once I checked the power cables and tightened the extensions, I stopped experiencing the monitor shutdowns.


----------



## TryHart

No, though I'm glad you mentioned it, because I had suspected I had a dud card when I noticed the HDMI ports on the front weren't working too. I am pretty sure the cables are secure, though the monitor is on a vesa arm and gets moved so I'll check when I get back from work.

What I now suspect is that it's an issue with the pascal architecture of the 1080 not liking the overclock, as I did have it running at 96Hz when I first got it, though it seemed to revert to 60 by itself. I think the issue might be a consequence of the hack required to OC, as some people with 1080s and 1070s have been unable to boot with a pixel clock over ~300.

Tonight i'll Switch back to my 390x, see what happens , then try an incremental changes overclock to find its breaking point. Shame though, as part of the reason I bought the 1080 was to make use of the monitor's high refresh rate


----------



## TryHart

Update: the 390x still works perfectly. The 1080 still does not. I've tried to install the NVidia driver on page 1 of this thread, but Win 10 has got really anal about unsigned drivers. I rebooted in ... whatever that mode is that removes unsigned driver restrictions, but it would not install. I forget the error message. I've submitted a ticket to Gigabyte, but I strongly suspect they will just blame it on the monitor.

It seems odd to have this problem, as I know 10-series card owners can and do run this monitor, if they have an aftermarket card with a DVI-D port. This is where having no official support from Qnix becomes an issue. A real drag, as any equivalent monitor will cost more than the GPU and I really don't want to keep using this 16" graphics tablet as a monitor.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

I have a 980 and haven't bothered to use monitor drivers. Just overclock it through the nvidia control panel.

Remember to run DDU to wipe all traces of old video drivers before installing new ones.


----------



## NexusRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> I have a 980 and haven't bothered to use monitor drivers. Just overclock it through the nvidia control panel.
> 
> Remember to run DDU to wipe all traces of old video drivers before installing new ones.


For those who don't feel comfortable using DDU, you can perform a clean installation when updating NV drivers. Just select custom during the install process and there is a radio button for clean install.

This will remove all old driver software and install the new ones.


----------



## TryHart

I've done both already. Ran DDU 6 times - twice each for AMD, NVidia and Intel - no luck. Same result. It suggests my 1080 is not outputting dual link DVI, but it absolutely should be, unless they are using the equivalent of a passive adapter on the card, but it is a premium version of a premium card... it should just work. This is driving me up the wall. I really don't want to have to buy a new monitor.

Add to that my keyboard is now messiing up and doubling letters randomly. I am not having a good week... -_-


----------



## Forceman

Kind of coming in late here, bit did you have a custom refresh rate running with the AMD card? If so, try using CRU to delete that profile and see if it works - my monitor used to go into that mode if I did a driver update on my AMD card without deleting my 96Hz profile first.


----------



## TryHart

Forceman, good suggestion, but one I had already thought of! My current state is... looking for a new monitor. I really didn't need to spend hundreds of quid more -_-


----------



## wisecrack

Hi there I just ordered my GTX 1080 and have read that there is problems booting into windows when the monitor is overclocked past 81hz.

Did Nvidia fix this issue in a driver update or is there any workaround?


----------



## Forceman

I have a 1080 and mine boots just fine at 96Hz using a custom refresh rate set in the Nvidia control panel.


----------



## wisecrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> I have a 1080 and mine boots just fine at 96Hz using a custom refresh rate set in the Nvidia control panel.


Thanks for the reply. So you can boot straight into windows 10 without having some screen issues when overclocked at 96hz?

I always had mine running at 96hz through a custom refresh rate in the Nvidia control panel so it seems that I would have no problem doing the same with the 1080.

I was just concerned after reading some comments stating that the GTX 10 Series can't boot correctly past 330 MHz DL-DVI pixel clock.

So I take it that Nvidia must have rectified that in a driver update if you are having no issues.


----------



## Forceman

Yeah, no issues for me, or with the 1070 I had before I got this card. I do sort of recall some discussion about something like that early on, but if there was an issue it has either been fixed or doesn't affect everyone.


----------



## yasamoka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TryHart*
> 
> Forceman, good suggestion, but one I had already thought of! My current state is... looking for a new monitor. I really didn't need to spend hundreds of quid more -_-


I wouldn't be this rash. Follow a more rigorous test methodology. Your Aorus GTX 1080 comes with a dual-link DVI port. Try another cable - sometimes a cable works with one combination of transmitter and receiver but not another. Try another monitor via DVI - it can even be your TV via a DVI to HDMI converter. Perhaps your 1080's DVI port is dead. Perhaps it's only working in single-link mode. Did you try plugging in the display exclusively? Also, I have no idea why you're patching your driver - I was able to overclock my Qnix to 110Hz flawlessly from the Nvidia control panel without any driver patches. You don't need the driver patch.

I have a GTX 1080Ti running a Viewsonic XG2703-GS @ 1440p 165Hz via DisplayPort and a Qnix QX2710 @ 1440p 60Hz (can run at 110Hz). A friend of mine has a GTX 1080 running a DIY monitor using an LG IPS panel @ 1440p 120Hz via DL-DVI. Even now, my DL-DVI cable is damaged so I'm running the Qnix via an HDMI to SL-DVI cable @ 1440p 50Hz using CRU. No issues whatsoever.


----------



## JSK23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Kinda frustrating without your system specs filled in, but I'm guessing your running a version of Win8/10 and you need to disable "driver signing" ... this is what I did when I "reluctantly" build a machine with Win10 ...
> 
> Enable Test Signing Mode
> Windows includes a "Test Mode" or "Test Signing" Mode feature. Enable this mode and driver signature enforcement will be disabled until you choose to leave Test Mode. You'll see a "Test Mode" watermark appear at the bottom right corner of your desktop near your clock, informing you that Test Mode is enabled.
> You'll need to run a command from an Administrator Command Prompt to do this. To launch one, right-click the Start button or press Windows+X and select "Command Prompt (Admin)".
> Paste the following command into the Command Prompt window and press Enter:
> 
> bcdedit /set testsigning on
> 
> If you see a message saying the value is "protected by Secure Boot policy", that means Secure Boot is enabled in your computer's UEFI firmware. You'll need to disable Secure Boot in your computer's UEFI firmware (also known as its BIOS) to enable test signing mode.
> Restart your computer to enter test mode. You'll see the "Test Mode" watermark appear at the bottom right corner of your desktop and you'll be free to install whatever unsigned drivers you want.
> To leave test mode, open a Command Prompt window as Administrator once again and run the following command:
> 
> bcdedit /set testsigning off
> 
> If you use the NVIDIA control panel, make sure to install the qnix.inf file using the Device Manager: qnix.zip (right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the .inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> Before installing that driver, your monitor shows up as a generic PnP device. That driver tells programs that your monitor isn't a generic 60Hz monitor, but that it's capable of more Hz.
> As an example, without that driver, some games may run at 60Hz even if you have 96Hz set in your NVCP. But with that driver the games will be able to tell that your monitor is capable of 96Hz, 120Hz etc.
> It has nothing to do with OCing, but getting programs to recognize that you OCed.
> You don't need it with AMD cards because with AMD cards I believe that the method of OCing is using CRU. CRU allows you to set "native" resolutions, which games will recognize.
> 
> Hope that helps


I have enabled text mode and disabled driver signing on advanced boot up options and I still get the parameter is incorrect. Running the lastest windows 10 update. Any idea why?

Installed a GTX 1080 today, fresh, uninstalled everything related to my R9 390 so I wanted to overclock to 120hz on the new card. I didnt have issues with my old GTX 780, or the R9 390 hitting 120hz. But now I cant get even get the qnix driver to install


----------



## Forceman

You don't need the driver, it'll overclock just fine through the Nvidia Control Panel without it.


----------



## JSK23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forceman*
> 
> You don't need the driver, it'll overclock just fine through the Nvidia Control Panel without it.


Actually I just found that out. I manually adjusted the pixel clock settings to what I had it at before, and it ran just fine no artifacting, with the PNP generic driver.


----------



## Zero4549

Newer versions of W10 have a change in the way driver file parameters are listed. You need a new version of the driver ini file that compensates for this. it has been posted in this thread a couple times, and I recently reposted it 2 or 3 pages back.

Nvidia doesn't actually care about the drivers, but a few games will be picky and not provide the option to run at refresh rates over 60 if you don't use the driver, even though your GPU is happy to run higher. Also if you ever switch to AMD, you'll need it. Personally, losing the ocd-inducing "generic pnp monitor" is enough reason for me.


----------



## easye-oc

Hi,

I have a QNIX 27" monitor and I was using the 1070 however I dumped my 1070 and I tried using the integrated graphics and it will only flash colors.

Do you know the minimum gpu I need to run this thing? Or is it possible to use integrated gpu?

I am sitting on the sidelines while the GPU craze is going on, no really need for a strong GPU anyways.

Thanks


----------



## easye-oc

Hi,

I have a QNIX 27" monitor and I was using the 1070 however I dumped my 1070 and I tried using the integrated graphics and it will only flash colors.

Do you know the minimum gpu I need to run this thing? Or is it possible to use integrated gpu?

I am sitting on the sidelines while the GPU craze is going on, no really need for a strong GPU anyways.

Thanks


----------



## Forceman

The integrated may not support dual link DVI, which the Qnix requires.


----------



## Rainier15

Hi All,

After years of use, unfortunately, my X-star 2710 does not work anymore.
I have read and tried a lot already, So I think it's either PCB or the powerbrick.
Maybe you guys have an Idea?
I Attached some pictures of the screen failing, and the PCB.

The screen does not show anything at all.
I can see it in Windows though.

Could a faulty powerbrick do this? Or is the PCB gone?
I couldn't find any blown/burn marks, although the PCB is a bit brownish at some parts.

I hope it's fixable, or maybe there is a new alternative monitor with the same or better specs?


----------



## vato3001

The best you can buy now is this one:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Crossover-2...475875&hash=item33c46089ca:g:VGMAAOSwBLdZtkbg

My Qnix is running @96Hz since 4 years, bought from storewithstory

Is there any manual or instructions how i can calibrate my qnix for the best profiles without the OSD?
Cant find anything on the net.
And which programm is the best for that etc.
So i can share the Profiles, after 4 years i need some new ones 

Have a Xrite-Pro.

Thx in advance.


----------



## UpsetChap

Rainier15 said:


> I couldn't find any blown/burn marks, although the PCB is a bit brownish at some parts.


The browning is caused by the mosfet dumping heat into it's surroundings (were you running it overclocked constantly?). Other than that there doesn't look to be anything wrong on the PCB. Getting a new powerbrick is step #1, mine recently failed after ~5 years of use. It's also probably worth getting a small heatsink or two and some thermal adhesive to cool that mosfet down a bit while you have it disassembled.



easye-oc said:


> I have a QNIX 27" monitor and I was using the 1070 however I dumped my 1070 and I tried using the integrated graphics and it will only flash colors.


The iGPU likely can't output 2560x1440, or as Forceman said it doesn't support dual DVI.


----------



## Rainier15

UpsetChap said:


> The browning is caused by the mosfet dumping heat into it's surroundings (were you running it overclocked constantly?). Other than that there doesn't look to be anything wrong on the PCB. Getting a new powerbrick is step #1, mine recently failed after ~5 years of use. It's also probably worth getting a small heatsink or two and some thermal adhesive to cool that mosfet down a bit while you have it disassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> The iGPU likely can't output 2560x1440, or as Forceman said it doesn't support dual DVI.


Tried a new powerbrick, not the sollution unfortunately..
Still the LED backlight powers up, but no screen.

Can I try to bake the PCB to resolder?


----------



## eoulim

Forceman said:


> The integrated may not support dual link DVI, which the Qnix requires.


Has anyone tried it with laptop?
I tried it with HP x360 and its Windows 10 shows 2nd display but unable to show their resolutions and stuff.
I'm using dual ink dvi to hdmi adapter by the way.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

eoulim said:


> Has anyone tried it with laptop?
> I tried it with HP x360 and its Windows 10 shows 2nd display but unable to show their resolutions and stuff.
> I'm using dual ink dvi to hdmi adapter by the way.


You need an active adapter. So none of the cheap ones will work.


----------



## eoulim

Some Tech Nub said:


> You need an active adapter. So none of the cheap ones will work.


Hmm, two of my cheap adapters worked fine with my desktop pc that has amd gpus....


----------



## kadaz

So I turned on my PC when I came home and the safety on the circuit board of the house went down. I turned it back on, then turned my PC on again but the Qnix doesn't do anything. No lights, nothing.

Is it rip or could it be the adapter? Can I somehow find out? My old HDMI 1080p is working right now but my eyes are hurting typing this message. Please help


----------



## UpsetChap

Rainier15 said:


> the LED backlight powers up, but no screen. Can I try to bake the PCB to resolder?


Sorry about the late reply on this one, the next step is to try and see if you can get the test pattern to display by connecting everything up but the rgb signal (the wider one that clips in) and turning it on again. Post a pic if anything displays. As for baking I'd reserve it for a last ditch attempt as you potentially might melt the plastics or damage something else. The good news is it sounds like all the power related stuff on the pcb is fine, the bad news being if that's the case it could be one of the chips doing the signal input and there's not a whole lot to be done about those.



kadaz said:


> Is it rip or could it be the adapter?


If you have a multimeter handy you can test the adapter and see if it's putting out the right power levels otherwise the only way to test is to get a replacement.


----------



## Ovrclck

I haven't posted in here for a while. My Qnix is still running strong @110hz


----------



## prostreetcamaro

Same here. Actually gave mine to a buddy just getting back into the PC scene. He games with me every night. But he sure is missing my 34" ultrawide let him use for a couple weeks lol.


----------



## TryHart

An update on my earlier posts and a recap:

Qnix was going to colour test mode when plugged into aorus 1080. Tried new lead, diff card (worked, poss because AMD), removing OC, scrubbing and reinstalling drivers, none of it worked. 

After many iterations of above: gave up and bought new monitor.

New monitor doesn't work with DVI, starts getting artefacts. Sent in 1080 for testing. 1080 killed shop's test rig and ran away cackling into the night.

Conclusion: card was at fault.

Current status: waiting for replacement 1080, confident it will arrive in next 12-18 months. Borrowing mother's 1050. Have to give it back next week... will be left with Ryzen 7 system with no GPU = no boot. Shop offered £505 refund for 1080, even though current price is £697. Swore a bit at shopkeeper. Probably moved down the waiting list a few places.

Lesson learned. Have faith in your cheap Korean monitor, not your expensive Taiwanese card!


----------



## cloudraven

I have two of this QNIX QX2710 1440p monitors. I have been using them happily with my GTX 1070 very happily through a simple DVI to Display port adapter, but recently I won a Titan V, and it turns out that it refuses to detect one of the monitors, but the other kind of works but flickers a lot.
What does this mean? Will I be able to use my monitors? Do I need a different cable or adapter.
I found this situation in which things partially work to be very confusing. I know this card is not quite common, but has anyone had a similar situation?

Thanks


----------



## Roland2

cloudraven said:


> I have two of this QNIX QX2710 1440p monitors. I have been using them happily with my GTX 1070 very happily through a simple DVI to Display port adapter, but recently I won a Titan V, and it turns out that it refuses to detect one of the monitors, but the other kind of works but flickers a lot.
> What does this mean? Will I be able to use my monitors? Do I need a different cable or adapter.
> I found this situation in which things partially work to be very confusing. I know this card is not quite common, but has anyone had a similar situation?
> 
> Thanks


What DVI to Display port adapter are you using? I would recommend a powered active adapter. From what I understand, our monitors need a clock signal that the display port doesn't provide, and the active adapter does. Why it would work on the 1070 and not on the titan v, I have no idea.


----------



## Khovic

Hey Fellas , I'm Selling my QNIX QX2710 DVI Glossy L02 monitor (120Hz OC). and i figured someone might be interested here. 
Its a relatively new unit (less than a year) and since i don't have my desktop anymore i don't really need it . 
Its an auction type sell on ebay. PM me if interested .


----------



## cloudraven

Roland2 said:


> What DVI to Display port adapter are you using? I would recommend a powered active adapter. From what I understand, our monitors need a clock signal that the display port doesn't provide, and the active adapter does. Why it would work on the 1070 and not on the titan v, I have no idea.


I am using two of the GoFanco active ones. It works fantastic with one of the monitors, but the other doesnt. I tried switching cables and adapters. One monitor always works, one always fails.
These ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQQ2HDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is it that the ability to work with those adapters is randomly supported by some monitors?

Also, I tested back with the GTX 1070. It turns out that the monitor that fails with the titan also fails with the 1070. I just hadn't noticed before because I was plugging that one directly to DVI-D. The Titan V has zero DVI-D inputs so I am forced to use adapters with both monitors.

Thanks


----------



## Ovrclck

Khovic said:


> Hey Fellas , I'm Selling my QNIX QX2710 DVI Glossy L02 monitor (120Hz OC). and i figured someone might be interested here.
> Its a relatively new unit (less than a year) and since i don't have my desktop anymore i don't really need it .
> Its an auction type sell on ebay. PM me if interested .


I've always wanted a L02. Pm'd.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Just sold my QX2710 with the L06 panel. Moving onto two Pixio PX277-Ns. Was great while I had it, but I'm looking forward to the upgrade.


----------



## apav

Hi guys,

I have a QNIX QX2710. My GPU just died, and I'm going to wait to find a good deal on the GPU I want which means I could be waiting a while. Unfortunately my motherboard doesn't have a DVI input, but would a DVI female to HDMI male adapter work with this monitor? I don't mind that I would only be able to use it at 60hz, I'd just like to use my computer at all in the meantime. 

Thanks!


----------



## Atomagenesis

Some Tech Nub said:


> Just sold my QX2710 with the L06 panel. Moving onto two Pixio PX277-Ns. Was great while I had it, but I'm looking forward to the upgrade.


Oooh, those are nice. Bookmarking


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Atomagenesis said:


> Some Tech Nub said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just sold my QX2710 with the L06 panel. Moving onto two Pixio PX277-Ns. Was great while I had it, but I'm looking forward to the upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> Oooh, those are nice. Bookmarking
Click to expand...

I got them in a week ago and the slim bezels look amazing. Panel doesn't quite have colors like the qnix pls, but it's better than the TN144hz. Sadly had to rma one which turned out to be relatively painless, since there is some customer support with pixio unlike the korean monitors.


----------



## Velathawen

Did you order directly from pixio or through Amazon? I've been thinking of making the same jump but I seem to come across quite a few people experiencing problems within the first 2 months or so.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Ordered off eBay.

I had to RMA one since a wire poked up from the bottom bezel in front of the backlight. The replacement arrived today with 6 dead pixels and a bunch of backlight bleed. So yeah... At least they have support. The PX277-N that I've been running throughout this whole RMA process has been great though.

So just like the korean monitors, it's a luck of the draw.


----------



## Siirupp

My old QNIX died today after 4 years of being overclocked. It suddenly went black and then I smelled burnt solder. I tried searching but I didn't find any posts linking a spare PCB. Aren't there ANY compatible controllers for the single input Samsung panel? I don't necessarily need to overclock it, I can just use it for productivity. Pics of PCB, I didn't spot any problems except for the brownish area surrounding the MOSFET:


----------



## apav

Siirupp said:


> My old QNIX died today after 4 years of being overclocked. It suddenly went black and then I smelled burnt solder. I tried searching but I didn't find any posts linking a spare PCB. Aren't there ANY compatible controllers for the single input Samsung panel? I don't necessarily need to overclock it, I can just use it for productivity. Pics of PCB, I didn't spot any problems except for the brownish area surrounding the MOSFET:


Out of curiosity, which refresh rate did you overclock it to and were you running it at that constantly? Mine is about as old, and my GPU just died from old age by blowing a choke presumably so I want to be super careful with it.


----------



## Siirupp

> Out of curiosity, which refresh rate did you overclock it to and were you running it at that constantly? Mine is about as old, and my GPU just died from old age by blowing a choke presumably so I want to be super careful with it.


110Hz and yea, the only times it was 60Hz was a few minutes after NVIDIA update that reset the resolutions.
TBH I haven't played any games for a while now so I regret not resetting it to 60Hz :/ oh well


----------



## Velathawen

I'm honestly surprised my qnix is holding up so well, got it back in 2013 so we're about 4 years and 5 months now. No scan lines and 100hz still going strong.


----------



## Siirupp

Velathawen said:


> I'm honestly surprised my qnix is holding up so well, got it back in 2013 so we're about 4 years and 5 months now. No scan lines and 100hz still going strong.


That's exactly how I felt right up to the point it out of nowhere gave up on me.

I found this on ebay, will this work with my panel? https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DVI-V...945325?hash=item56a128122d:g:2XAAAOSwOuRZs2Lz

Pic of the back of my panel


----------



## Velathawen

Honestly not sure if it will work or not. The model matches so maybe the seller would be able to clarify for you.

People were having trouble finding replacement boards even back when the monitors were FOTM so it's not surprising to hear that they're even harder to find now


----------



## Jeff Jei

*The Qnix device driver is working*

the driver stopped working for me after the update this week. when i try to install it after i have disabled driver signing at startup, it says "Parameters Incorrect". I need help. when i checked my frames using ufo test, it still says 60hz even though i have it on 96hz and nvidia experience also has it at 96hz. i think am frame skipping. how do i fix this. someone help!!


----------



## Jeff Jei

TomcatV said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *TheTasty1*
> 
> Hello all.....having a little bit of bother here and hoping someone may be able to shed some light. I have had my Qnix 2710 overclocked to 96 hertz for some time, maybe a year or more, and recently I had to perform a clean install of my graphics drivers as suggested by Nvidia, as there 'experience' software wasn't functioning as it should. After having done that I went to return my overclock setting on my monitor to the overclocked values but seem unable to do so. When I go into device manager/monitors/generic monitor and then update driver via the browse method, Windows doesn't seem to be able to detect the presence of the 'qnix.inf' file. It says generic PnP monitor in my device manager, and when I go to search it cant find the driver file saying that the best driver is already installed. I had this working perfectly so what am I doing wrong if anything.......
> Thanks for reading and any help you might offer is vm appreciated, cheers
> 
> EDIT: Its been so long since I did this the first time that I couldn't remember exactly what I did. Just to note that I have now worked out to change the settings in Nvidia control panel anyway. So I changed back to 96hz again and have tested and it works, but I still cant figure out how to install the 'qnix.inf' again to let programs know that a change has been made (or do I even need to?). Eitherway, Windows wont recognise the presence of the file in my selected folder, and my device manager says I am using 'Generic PnP Monitor', when it was definitely saying 'QNIX' before I did the clean install of the graphics drivers.
> I was thinking maybe I should just hit the 'rollback drivers' option and then try again, but I was hoping for a little advice before I did that.....any and all would be quality.
> Thanks again
> 
> 
> Kinda frustrating without your system specs filled in, but I'm guessing your running a version of Win8/10 and you need to disable "driver signing" ... this is what I did when I "reluctantly" build a machine with Win10 ...
> 
> Enable Test Signing Mode
> Windows includes a “Test Mode” or “Test Signing” Mode feature. Enable this mode and driver signature enforcement will be disabled until you choose to leave Test Mode. You’ll see a “Test Mode” watermark appear at the bottom right corner of your desktop near your clock, informing you that Test Mode is enabled.
> You’ll need to run a command from an Administrator Command Prompt to do this. To launch one, right-click the Start button or press Windows+X and select “Command Prompt (Admin)”.
> Paste the following command into the Command Prompt window and press Enter:
> 
> bcdedit /set testsigning on
> 
> If you see a message saying the value is “protected by Secure Boot policy”, that means Secure Boot is enabled in your computer’s UEFI firmware. You’ll need to disable Secure Boot in your computer’s UEFI firmware (also known as its BIOS) to enable test signing mode.
> Restart your computer to enter test mode. You’ll see the “Test Mode” watermark appear at the bottom right corner of your desktop and you’ll be free to install whatever unsigned drivers you want.
> To leave test mode, open a Command Prompt window as Administrator once again and run the following command:
> 
> bcdedit /set testsigning off
> 
> If you use the NVIDIA control panel, make sure to install the qnix.inf file using the Device Manager: qnix.zip (right-click "Generic PnP Monitor" -> Update Driver Software... -> Browse my computer for driver software -> Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer -> Have Disk... -> Browse for the .inf file -> OK -> Next -> Install this driver software anyway)
> 
> Before installing that driver, your monitor shows up as a generic PnP device. That driver tells programs that your monitor isn't a generic 60Hz monitor, but that it's capable of more Hz.
> As an example, without that driver, some games may run at 60Hz even if you have 96Hz set in your NVCP. But with that driver the games will be able to tell that your monitor is capable of 96Hz, 120Hz etc.
> It has nothing to do with OCing, but getting programs to recognize that you OCed.
> You don't need it with AMD cards because with AMD cards I believe that the method of OCing is using CRU. CRU allows you to set "native" resolutions, which games will recognize.
> 
> Hope that helps


I tried doing it but it still said parameters is incorrect. it can't install. even after i disabled the driver signing too.


----------



## Stige

Jeff Jei said:


> the driver stopped working for me after the update this week. when i try to install it after i have disabled driver signing at startup, it says "Parameters Incorrect". I need help. when i checked my frames using ufo test, it still says 60hz even though i have it on 96hz and nvidia experience also has it at 96hz. i think am frame skipping. how do i fix this. someone help!!



Why would you need drivers to begin with?


----------



## Atomagenesis

You dont need monitor drivers for this display. If you're using AMD Drivers, patch them with atikdmager or whatever its called and run the CRU utility and use the tightened timings. inf.

I've been running my monitor at 120hz for years without issue.


----------



## Dr_Commander

*Qnix 2700LED Overclockable?*

I have a GTX 680 driving a Qnix 2700 LED DVI-D Input only. They've been great for 5 years but I'm interested in overclocking the panel now.

Using the Nvidia Control Panel to set a custom resolution I can get 64Hz but nothing higher. I've tried a new cable and different DVI port but no luck.

My question is, is the Qnix 2700LED even able to overclock, or is it only the 2710?

Thanks.


----------



## Zero4549

Correct, the 2700 LED is not known to overclock. It is the original 2710 and it's first revision that were known to overclock to 120 and 96hz respectively fairly reliably.

At any rate a gtx 680 won't be pushing 1440p above 60hz in any modern titles even if you do overclock your panel, so unless you were looking to play 5+ year old games a bit smoother, you would be better off keeping it at stock for the better image quality and perhaps overclocking your GPU instead.


----------



## Dr_Commander

Thanks for that. Will save me time trying arcane magic on my DVI cable. 

I guess I jumped on the Korean monitor bandwagon a little too soon.

Card is overclocked like crazy though and 60 seems to be achievable in most games.


----------



## Ovrclck

Some Tech Nub said:


> You need an active adapter. So none of the cheap ones will work.


I just picked up a second Qnix for $60 bucks over the weekend and tried using a DVI-D to HDMI cable. No dice. I will try your suggestion using an active adapter. 

Thanks!


----------



## Ovrclck

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042806&p_id=12784&seq=1&format=2

This active adapter worked like a champ!


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Glad to hear it! $10 is pretty affordable, and $60 for the QNIX itself is one heck of a steal.


----------



## Dwigz

I've had my Xstar for 4 years now and i'm dying to overclock it. I gave up trying 4 years ago because i just couldn't get it to work in Windows 8. Now i'm getting back into gaming but have no idea what i'm doing and information seems to be scattered in terms of latest drivers and patches etc. Please help, I don't like failing twice. I have a gtx 780 (soon to be 1080ti) and Windows10

Edit: Looking back at my old posts it seems that I managed a 96hz overlock, I have no recollection of this, how to do it or if my Xstar is still OC'd to 96hz...send help! lol


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Just open up nvidia control panel and create a custom resolution set at 96hz


----------



## Dwigz

Some Tech Nub said:


> Just open up nvidia control panel and create a custom resolution set at 96hz


Wait, what? It's that simple now? No need to update drivers and patches?


----------



## Ovrclck

Dwigz said:


> Wait, what? It's that simple now? No need to update drivers and patches?


Yep! If you're using Nvidia that is.


----------



## Ovrclck

Some Tech Nub said:


> Glad to hear it! $10 is pretty affordable, and $60 for the QNIX itself is one heck of a steal.


Thanks! It was definitely worth the 2 hour drive round trip.


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Anyone have their qnix not turning back on after sleepmode ? I've had this problem on win8.1, win7, 980ti and now 280x.

I went for ages without it on the 980ti, now it's back this time with a 280x.

Hooking up a 21" will work right away, but the qnix, I usually have to screw around rebooting/trying the 21", then the qnix, and usually it still won't work right away.


I really don't know if it's the qnix or drivers/windows/GPU. I RMAed a 980 ti over this when I 1st got a 980ti. And then I got this monitor. My memory is fuzzy.

Why do so many people have this no display after sleep problem, and there's no clear fix.


----------



## Friskynoodle

So after a few years, my Xstar DP2710's display is going out in a few ways. 

I have a big black line towards the bottom, and the polarized film is peeling (I purchased it 2nd hand for a really good price). I found a replacement panel, the Samsung PLS panel. Are there differences if the model number is the same? I know the Overclock isnt handled directly by the display, if it looks exactly (and the connectors are the same) I should not have issues replacing the panel and possibly overclocking to around 100hz? Once I replace it, I could mail off this one to someone if they know how to properly repolarize the monitor if that is something anyone wants. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Fun fact, I am using polarized glasses right now to be able to view my monitor.


----------



## gockelmax

*monitor dead*

My QNIX QX2710 LED (only DVI-D input) has finally died on me. It worked for more than 5 years @110Hz (minimal BLB and no dead pixels) and it served me well. 
I opened it up to look for obvious damage like blown caps, but couldn't find anything. What I did notice is a bit of a burned smell at the DC input port (again, no physical damage visible). 
The monitor status LED still works. 
You know those initial test images that appear whenever the display gets connected to a power source? (red, green, blue)
Those dont appear anymore, probably because the backlight doesn't turned on at all anymore. 
I checked the connections to the curcuit and inverter board and they seem OK. 

EDIT: I just tested the AC adapter on another monitor and it only works for a second. Ill go get a replacement and see if it works again.

EDIT2: Got the replacement, and the monitor still doesn't work. What's interesting, is that it still gets correctly recognized by windows ... it's just the backlight that's not working for whatever reason (I double checked the cables).

If anyone is interested in the monitor (parts), I'd happily ship it to you, if you pay the shipping costs (I'm located in Germany).
Again: I can't guarantee that anything works, since I don't know exactly what's wrong with it.
There seems to be no physical damage to the boards, and the cables all seem OK.
I believe it is a problem with the backlights (I didn't open the panel itself).
The monitor was opened 3 times and that left a few marks on the monitor's plastic bezel.
You can contact me at [email protected] (I'll probably not read a PM on this forum)


----------



## vato3001

What about this one:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Perfect-Mbe...595881?hash=item33eaade0a9:g:wQUAAOSwWupa0HQY
MB279QR144 AH-VA with 3ms and 144Hz


----------



## lef1337

hello i have the qnix 2710 for the last 3-4 years today when i just try to open it it didnt open was blinking i could see the windows screen when it was blinking and close after that happens every time i try to turn it from the button on the screen also a sound comes from the monitor like from the speaker even if they are not connected dunno if anyone had similar problem and managed to fix it


----------



## Minseok

I own a DP2710LED (X-Star). Does anyone know where I can get a new PCB?


----------



## Cata1yst

Ovrclck said:


> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042806&p_id=12784&seq=1&format=2
> 
> This active adapter worked like a champ!


Did you try to OC the monitor? Did it work with that adapter?


----------



## Ovrclck

Cata1yst said:


> Did you try to OC the monitor? Did it work with that adapter?


So it turns out that the adapter does not work. RMA'd the original, same issue. Lines all over the panel. 
I guess I'll just have to fork over $99.00 for one of those higher grade adapters.


----------



## passinos

Minseok said:


> I own a DP2710LED (X-Star). Does anyone know where I can get a new PCB?


+1. Have 2 X-Star with same PCB. 1 of them is fried.
Can't find them anywhere but I need one!!


----------



## passinos

anyone tried a different manufacture PCB board?


----------



## bloodr0se

I picked up Dead or Alive 5 in the Steam summer sale but realised the game doesn't include 2k support. The options go straight from 1080p to 4k. 

Selecting the 4k option and full screen mode didn't work at first and threw an in-game error but it did work in window mode so I added a custom resolution via the Geforce CP and the game loaded and ran perfectly in 4k. 

The thing is I have the original model with only a DVI port and according to this page my version didn't include the virtual 4k feature. 

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm

Does anyone know if selecting 4k on this monitor would damage it?


----------



## bloodr0se

Ovrclck said:


> http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042806&p_id=12784&seq=1&format=2
> 
> This active adapter worked like a champ!



Fantastic. That's really useful to know considering DVI seems to be retired at this point.


----------



## slayersic

Ovrclck said:


> So it turns out that the adapter does not work. RMA'd the original, same issue. Lines all over the panel.
> I guess I'll just have to fork over $99.00 for one of those higher grade adapters.


Was gonna order this one for my Qnix QX2710 LED, to use it on my old PS3. oh well.


----------



## relink

*Blown Mosfet for backlight*

Hi all I had my first Qnix for about 3 years, OCd to 90hz, and it ran day in and day out like a champ, until one day it started to shut off randomly. After about 2 days of that, I heard a loud squealing, POP, and...dead. I ended up buying a new one at the time and putting the broken one in the closet. Now my wife's 10yr old Asus monitor has finally bit the dust and I want to try and revive the broken QNIX for her to use, it would be a fantastic upgrade for her too. 

So when I first disassembled the QNIX the problem was obvious, there was a blown mosfet, with a brown burnt spot around it on the PCB. I have removed the mosfet and replaced it with a new one from digikey, and it has made progress. The monitor now turns on, the light goes solid blue, and the display is in fact showing an image, if I hold a flashlight up to the screen I can make out the time on my Ubuntu lock screen. So the problem is that the back lights are not getting power. Of course I have also got a new power brick at this point too. 

So please anyone with any electronics knowledge who can help would be greatly appreciated, I have plenty of equipment at my disposal, multi meters, oscilloscopes, soldering irons, Im not afraid to dig into this thing, but unfortunately I don't yet have the knowledge to know where to look beyond the mosfet I already replaced.


----------



## bmgjet

Finally splashed out and got a upgrade over my old as hell QX2710LED (2013). Been running it 100-120hz since day one and still works perfectly but now it can live as a seconday screen.
Got a PG27UQ since I figured I had saved on 3 screen upgrades over the time of owning the QX since nothing offered a real upgrade. The Difference is like night and day.


----------



## usernamedesired

Been reading back through the thread but struggling with all the information.

Looking to upgrade to a 1080ti from an old amd card.

Is there still issues with overclocking on 10 series cards in refrence to the pixel clock and are any patches required?

Was looking at the evga 1080ti SC, some googling revealed lots of people unable to overclock or to 81hz only due to 330mhz pixel limit. 

Whats the current state?


----------



## lef1337

anywhere i can buy a board for qnix 2710 mine is dead


----------



## bmgjet

usernamedesired said:


> Been reading back through the thread but struggling with all the information.
> 
> Looking to upgrade to a 1080ti from an old amd card.
> 
> Is there still issues with overclocking on 10 series cards in refrence to the pixel clock and are any patches required?
> 
> Was looking at the evga 1080ti SC, some googling revealed lots of people unable to overclock or to 81hz only due to 330mhz pixel limit.
> 
> Whats the current state?


OC is fine on 1080ti. Mine does 100hz fine using the nvidia driver setting and making custom res.


----------



## Ovrclck

lef1337 said:


> anywhere i can buy a board for qnix 2710 mine is dead


Might just be cheaper and easier if you can find a used qnix locally. I've had great success with finding a couple on Craigslist in you're in the US.


----------



## browny2911

hey all, i own a qnix 2710, single dvi port version, im only able to overclock it to 100hz, anything past that it has some weird pink marks that appear on the left hand side of the screen only, like some sort of screen retention or something. I dont really know what it is, is anyone else having a similar problem? i can overclock to 110/120hz but there is obvious pink marks on the right hand side of the screen.

Anything i can do to fix this?


----------



## Beatwolf

Mine does 96hz fine and above as well. Always stayed on 96 though in order not tax the monitor too much. Dont know about pixel clock etc. I just set custom resolution in the nvidia control panel. 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## lightsout

I have an Xstar with single dvi port. Anyone used an adapter with these monitors from an HDMI port? With some sort of HDMI to DVI work? 

Reason I ask is I was thinking about hoking it up to my laptop.


----------



## dukeout

Hey, I just recently ordered a controller board for the LTM270DL02 (the samsung LCD screen that is in the Qnix) from ebay. It's not the original controller board, but I figured it would work regardless. The problem is when I connect it, it powers on for a split second and then turns off. I met the power input specifications from the manufacturer, so I'm not sure that's the issue. I'm thinking it's a problem with the board? I can't really test it since I dont have a second LCD screen to probe it. I have 5 days to return it to the seller, but, again, I'm not sure its a problem with the board. If anyone has any experience with these things, or ordered a similar replacement board from china and had success - let me know! Any help is appreciated


----------



## coelacanth

coelacanth said:


> My Qnix is coming today. I ordered on 7/24 from green-sum, pixel-perfect matte. Green-sum created a shipping label immediately but it looks like my order got held up for a few days getting "registered" and "released" from the "Clearing Agency."
> 
> I have my Monoprice 24AWG dual link DVI-D cable and 14AWG power cable ready to go. Going to see how many Hz I can hit tonight.
> 
> Rep+ to the OP for the ridiculously awesome first post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm coming from a 1080p 60Hz TN 2ms LCD. That's going to be my second monitor now. I'm driving the monitors with 2 x MSI GTX 580 Lightning Xtremes (3GB VRAM) in SLI.
> 
> I'm a gamer and can't wait to see Borderlands 2 / Witcher 2 / BF3 / Mass Effect 3 and whatever else I'm playing on this monitor.


Five years on and this monitor is my daily driver at 96Hz and still going strong. It does 120Hz no problem, but I keep it at 96Hz to prolong it's life. This has been a great purchase.


----------



## BulletSponge

coelacanth said:


> Five years on and this monitor is my daily driver at 96Hz and still going strong. It does 120Hz no problem, but I keep it at 96Hz to prolong it's life. This has been a great purchase.


I think I bought mine in 2014 and it is still going strong at 96Hz. The original power brick died after a year but the cheap $10 replacement I bought on Amazon has been solid ever since.


----------



## Quisp

Hello once more-

Here’s my fourth update regarding my three X-Star purchases from September, 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.

https://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21860#post_23169288

After four years of ownership and continuous usage, my three X-Stars are still working just fine...No issues to report...

All three monitors are powered 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.

OS: Windows 10 Pro v.1803
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified (x2)


----------



## bond32

Quisp said:


> Hello once more-
> 
> Here’s my fourth update regarding my three X-Star purchases from September, 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21860#post_23169288
> 
> After four years of ownership and continuous usage, my three X-Stars are still working just fine...No issues to report...
> 
> All three monitors are powered 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.
> 
> OS: Windows 10 Pro v.1803
> GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified (x2)


Awesome setup! I used to have 3 X-Star's, ended out selling 2. I believe I have the same model still, mine also ran 96 hz since release and still looks awesome.

I would like to purchase 2 more maybe soon, I don't see any for sale anywhere. Is there a model sold nowdays that is similar? I have the stand still and everything.

Also just curious, I assume you have the single dual-DVI input model - did you need to get an active adapter for one or two?


----------



## sinnedone

bond32 said:


> Awesome setup! I used to have 3 X-Star's, ended out selling 2. I believe I have the same model still, mine also ran 96 hz since release and still looks awesome.
> 
> I would like to purchase 2 more maybe soon, I don't see any for sale anywhere. Is there a model sold nowdays that is similar? I have the stand still and everything.
> 
> Also just curious, I assume you have the single dual-DVI input model - did you need to get an active adapter for one or two?


I replaced my qnix for a pixio px277. It used the same plastic case as the qnix/xstar. They make newer nicer ones though as mine is several years old now.


----------



## bond32

sinnedone said:


> I replaced my qnix for a pixio px277. It used the same plastic case as the qnix/xstar. They make newer nicer ones though as mine is several years old now.


Awesome, thanks.

Crossfire 290x's right? What's your gaming experience been like settings wise?

Lately I've decided I care less about the benchmarks and more about the smooth, pretty experience. Like you said previously, I would probably be fine with just 2 290x's but I got a really good deal on some, plus my MB runs tri-fire at 16x8x8 I believe (EVGA Z87 classified), so cost wise (and PSU), if the 290x's are cheap that should provide a better experience vs a whole new rig.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Quisp

bond32 said:


> Awesome setup! I used to have 3 X-Star's, ended out selling 2. I believe I have the same model still, mine also ran 96 hz since release and still looks awesome.
> 
> I would like to purchase 2 more maybe soon, I don't see any for sale anywhere. Is there a model sold nowdays that is similar? I have the stand still and everything.
> 
> Also just curious, I assume you have the single dual-DVI input model - did you need to get an active adapter for one or two?



Thanks!

Truth be told, I haven't really kept up with what similar model monitor is sold nowadays. 

I have a feeling that when my X-Stars finally give out, I'll look to replace them with 4K ~30" monitors for a "reasonable" price. Multi-display setups are awesome!

My rig has two "ancient" 680 Classy cards. Each 680 GPU has two DVI ports. Two of my monitors are plugged into one 680 GPU, the third monitor into one of the DVI ports on the second 680 GPU...No active adapter needed.


----------



## robinaish

Hi, 
I'm kind of worried seeing the new nvidia cards without dvi...

I own a Qnix single dvi since 2014 and I still don't feel the need to change.

As I understand, it's not possible to overclock with a display port to dvi adapter.

Is the 1080ti the final possible gpu upgrade? 

If anyone has tested or has info on this topic, please post. Thanks


----------



## Kokin

robinaish said:


> Hi,
> I'm kind of worried seeing the new nvidia cards without dvi...
> 
> I own a Qnix single dvi since 2014 and I still don't feel the need to change.
> 
> As I understand, it's not possible to overclock with a display port to dvi adapter.
> 
> Is the 1080ti the final possible gpu upgrade?
> 
> If anyone has tested or has info on this topic, please post. Thanks


You can wait to see if any AIB non-ref. cards support DVI. The 1080Ti FE didn't have DVI but the AIB versions did.


----------



## bluedevil

Kokin said:


> You can wait to see if any AIB non-ref. cards support DVI. The 1080Ti FE didn't have DVI but the AIB versions did.


I don't think so Tim.


----------



## Ovrclck

coelacanth said:


> Five years on and this monitor is my daily driver at 96Hz and still going strong. It does 120Hz no problem, but I keep it at 96Hz to prolong it's life. This has been a great purchase.


Same here. Mine has been rock solid at 110Hz 24/7 with no issues other than the LED light failing


----------



## kmetek

where can i buy one in europe?


----------



## InStars

Anyone else experiencing problems that color sustainer no longer works? (nothing happens when you associate the profile)

I tried it like a year ago and it worked fine.


----------



## Bako-Dan

I purchased a Qnix 27" monitor for my son back in 2015. Despite not being able to run it stably at overclocked refresh rates, it's been a solid monitor. Many thanks to all the Overclock.net users in this forum who directed me to that purchase! I'm now looking to upgrade his monitor to a 32" IPS monitor with a minimum resolution of 2560x1440 and a refresh rate of 144Hz. Any suggestions?


----------



## lightsout

Does anyone use one of these with a DP to DVI adapter (or HDMI) Looking to upgrade GPU and lots of them don't have DVI.


----------



## bond32

lightsout said:


> Does anyone use one of these with a DP to DVI adapter (or HDMI) Looking to upgrade GPU and lots of them don't have DVI.


https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-...1727516&sr=8-3&keywords=dvi+dual+link+adapter

That is the one you will need, the regular adapter won't work.


----------



## lightsout

bond32 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-...1727516&sr=8-3&keywords=dvi+dual+link+adapter
> 
> That is the one you will need, the regular adapter won't work.


Why is that? Man I'd rather put that money towards a new monitor. What about HDMI to DVI?


----------



## bond32

lightsout said:


> Why is that? Man I'd rather put that money towards a new monitor. What about HDMI to DVI?


Yeah, it is unfortunate. The single dvi input is a dual link dvi which requires that powered adapter. It works, but definitely should budget in that adapter. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## dante`afk

lightsout said:


> Does anyone use one of these with a DP to DVI adapter (or HDMI) Looking to upgrade GPU and lots of them don't have DVI.


Not true what the other guy said

https://blog.briancmoses.com/2015/02/hooking-up-my-qnix-2710-to-displayport.html

I'm using this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...de=w61&tag=bcmblog-20&linkId=X6XOO7HLN73KUTRL and it works. Though overclocking is not possible.


----------



## lightsout

dante`afk said:


> Not true what the other guy said
> 
> https://blog.briancmoses.com/2015/02/hooking-up-my-qnix-2710-to-displayport.html
> 
> I'm using this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...de=w61&tag=bcmblog-20&linkId=X6XOO7HLN73KUTRL and it works. Though overclocking is not possible.


I came across that while searching as well. Thanks. I will grab one of those so I can keep using this thing. I haven't OC'd in a while anyways. Never seemed to make a huge difference for me.


----------



## bond32

Sorry about that, I forgot the adapter (active) is for overclocking...

Anyone still using these in eyefinity? 3?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## lightsout

bond32 said:


> Sorry about that, I forgot the adapter (active) is for overclocking...
> 
> Anyone still using these in eyefinity? 3?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


It's not only for OC, I got a dp to dvi adapter with my 1080ti and this one does not work. Not sure the brand it was given for free.


----------



## Advil000

I'm mentioning this monitor as a solution to the no DVI-D problem on new video cards:

There was no solid solution to my 2080 card not having DVI. My Crossover only had a DVI-D port and was 1440p and 90hz+ and none of the active adapters really stated that they would for sure work. And how many other issues might come up from using one? Plus the cost...

So, sold off the Crossover(just like your Qnix screens), cried a little because I loved that screen, and got the new Pixio 277h. Same general idea as the screens we have been using. 1440p, 144hz, IPS, Freesync, HDMI / DP ... AND ... HDR at 600nits.

So far It's like a lot of other cheap Korean panels... but it's working great. And I didn't realize how much I'd like the HDR. Yeah, it's single region brightness and 600nits but it's enough to make HDR content look blatantly better than non. And most every game I play supports it. So win/win.


----------



## dante`afk

The pixio screen you are mentioning is TN panel and no HDR.


Sent from my iPhone XS Max using Tapatalk


----------



## Advil000

Incorrect. See specs here:

https://www.pixiogaming.com/px277h


----------



## Some Tech Nub

dante`afk said:


> The pixio screen you are mentioning is TN panel and no HDR.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone XS Max using Tapatalk


The Pixio PX276 is the TN 144hz 1ms 1440p panel.

Pixio PX277 is AH-VA/IPS 1440p 144hz, with PX277h being AH-VA/IPS 1440p 144hz with HDR.

I have 2 Pixio PX277s and they are awesome.


----------



## lightsout

Some Tech Nub said:


> The Pixio PX276 is the TN 144hz 1ms 1440p panel.
> 
> Pixio PX277 is AH-VA/IPS 1440p 144hz, with PX277h being AH-VA/IPS 1440p 144hz with HDR.
> 
> I have 2 Pixio PX277s and they are awesome.


The non HDR IPS model seems hard to find. Any thoughts on the TN panels?


----------



## Some Tech Nub

lightsout said:


> The non HDR IPS model seems hard to find. Any thoughts on the TN panels?


The Pixio PX-277 goes in and out of stock a lot. It's never in stock for very long unfortunately.

Regarding TN panels - if you are used to the QNIX QX2710 panels, it's going to be a step down in terms of picture quality. However they are excellent panels, despite them being TN. I had a QNIX side by side with a monoprice one(they should all use the same AUO TN panel I think), and the only reason I bought the monoprice was because I was so impressed with the price as well as how good a 144hz TN looked.

If you want to go the korean monitor route again, you can try the mbest: https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Mbest-M...-AMD-FreeSync-27-Gaming-Monitor/223004541375?

Seems to be 1440p, 144hz, AH-VA and Freesync.


----------



## lightsout

Some Tech Nub said:


> The Pixio PX-277 goes in and out of stock a lot. It's never in stock for very long unfortunately.
> 
> Regarding TN panels - if you are used to the QNIX QX2710 panels, it's going to be a step down in terms of picture quality. However they are excellent panels, despite them being TN. I had a QNIX side by side with a monoprice one(they should all use the same AUO TN panel I think), and the only reason I bought the monoprice was because I was so impressed with the price as well as how good a 144hz TN looked.
> 
> If you want to go the korean monitor route again, you can try the mbest: https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Mbest-M...-AMD-FreeSync-27-Gaming-Monitor/223004541375?
> 
> Seems to be 1440p, 144hz, AH-VA and Freesync.


Thank you, looks good. I didn't realize monoprice also had a $300 1440p 144hz. Might feel a little better buying from a reputable brand.

Since you've had both how do you like the new monitor? Do you play shooters? I am considering one becuase I always here how good high refresh rate gaming is. Honestly with my Qnix OC'd to 120hz I didn't notice a big difference.
Always thought that might be because it was "hacked" 120hz. Right now I am using a 43" 4k tv which is a VA panel. So I definitely see the difference there, also have a cheap 22" 1080p that I am sure is TN to compare with.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

I only had my QNIX QX2710 overclocked to 96hz as I was getting minor artifacting at 110hz. It's pretty rare to get a QNIX to 120hz - you should probably check https://www.testufo.com/frameskipping to see if you have any frame skipping.

I do play shooters(albeit not as much anymore, regrettably) like CS:GO, TF2, and Overwatch. Going from 96hz to 144hz is only a tiny bit smoother for me. I did find the jump from 60 to 96hz absolutely incredible though. 

I see that you've got a GTX 1080 Ti, which in that case it would probably be better to spend the extra $50-75 whenever the Dell SG2716 goes on sale. (e.g. https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsa...or_dell_27_1440p_144hz_freesync_s2719dgf_379/). That way you can take advantage of G-Sync. It uses a TN panel, but as I stated before the colors are surprisingly good for a TN. Heck, I had my Monoprice TN side by side with my QNIX for a few months and didn't feel too bad about it.


----------



## lightsout

Some Tech Nub said:


> I only had my QNIX QX2710 overclocked to 96hz as I was getting minor artifacting at 110hz. It's pretty rare to get a QNIX to 120hz - you should probably check https://www.testufo.com/frameskipping to see if you have any frame skipping.
> 
> I do play shooters(albeit not as much anymore, regrettably) like CS:GO, TF2, and Overwatch. Going from 96hz to 144hz is only a tiny bit smoother for me. I did find the jump from 60 to 96hz absolutely incredible though.
> 
> I see that you've got a GTX 1080 Ti, which in that case it would probably be better to spend the extra $50-75 whenever the Dell SG2716 goes on sale. (e.g. https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsa...or_dell_27_1440p_144hz_freesync_s2719dgf_379/). That way you can take advantage of G-Sync. It uses a TN panel, but as I stated before the colors are surprisingly good for a TN. Heck, I had my Monoprice TN side by side with my QNIX for a few months and didn't feel too bad about it.


Yeah mine OC's to 120 no problem. I have done the frame skipping test before. Plenty of people were getting 120 when these things were popular. Problem is I am on DP now and not paying $100 for an adapter that will maybe OC. I quit OCing the monitor a long time ago because the color shifts a bit darker, I always worried it would damage it. I may have to break out my gtx 1060 just to do a 60 vs 120hz comparison.

Thanks for the link on the dell. Yeah Gsync would be great, stretching my budget though, not sure I want to stand in lines again at BB on BF, thanks for the feedback.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Yeah, no problem. I also upgraded to 2 Pixio PX277s because of the increasing lack of DVI-D on the new GPUs. Having matching monitors is also a plus in the aesthetics department. I did get a QNIX towards the end of their "quality" run in early 2013, so that's probably why it didn't overclock so high.

This month is full of sales - hopefully you'll find something to fit your need!


----------



## lightsout

Some Tech Nub said:


> Yeah, no problem. I also upgraded to 2 Pixio PX277s because of the increasing lack of DVI-D on the new GPUs. Having matching monitors is also a plus in the aesthetics department. I did get a QNIX towards the end of their "quality" run in early 2013, so that's probably why it didn't overclock so high.
> 
> This month is full of sales - hopefully you'll find something to fit your need!


Yes a matching pair would be nice. I did that back in the day with a double mount it was sweet.


----------



## Ovrclck

Some Tech Nub said:


> The Pixio PX-277 goes in and out of stock a lot. It's never in stock for very long unfortunately.
> 
> Regarding TN panels - if you are used to the QNIX QX2710 panels, it's going to be a step down in terms of picture quality. However they are excellent panels, despite them being TN. I had a QNIX side by side with a monoprice one(they should all use the same AUO TN panel I think), and the only reason I bought the monoprice was because I was so impressed with the price as well as how good a 144hz TN looked.
> 
> If you want to go the korean monitor route again, you can try the mbest: https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Mbest-M...-AMD-FreeSync-27-Gaming-Monitor/223004541375?
> 
> Seems to be 1440p, 144hz, AH-VA and Freesync.



Do you know if there is a Korean monitor similar to the PX-277 but G-Sync rather than Freesync? I'm getting the upgrade itch again.


----------



## blackdragonbird

Seems like these old panels are in the end of it's lives unfortunately. No more DVI connector in new VGAs and new drivers are not working correctly with nVidia Pixel Clock patcher. T_T

My DP2710 is still rocking solid, except some light bleeding I never fixed because I have no idea how to do it, and I'm afraid to damage it trying.


----------



## sinnedone

If you want high refresh gaming I agree, but at 60hz with an adapter still ok if you already have one.


----------



## lightsout

dante`afk said:


> Not true what the other guy said
> 
> https://blog.briancmoses.com/2015/02/hooking-up-my-qnix-2710-to-displayport.html
> 
> I'm using this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...de=w61&tag=bcmblog-20&linkId=X6XOO7HLN73KUTRL and it works. Though overclocking is not possible.


Wanted to confirm this one works for me as well. No overclocking but it works great at 60hz.


----------



## Ovrclck

lightsout said:


> Wanted to confirm this one works for me as well. No overclocking but it works great at 60hz.


I'll have to give this a try. I bought one of those cheap dongles before and it caused my screen to go crazy.


----------



## lightsout

Ovrclck said:


> I'll have to give this a try. I bought one of those cheap dongles before and it caused my screen to go crazy.


Yeah I have a cheap one and the screen starts to rotate through a bunch of test patterns.


----------



## Ovrclck

lightsout said:


> Yeah I have a cheap one and the screen starts to rotate through a bunch of test patterns.


Cool. I just bought one. Hopefully this works.


----------



## ttnuagmada

has anyone had any issues with the more recent nvidia drivers? Ever since 411.xx or so, I can no longer get anything above 84hz to show up in the resolution options. If I make a custom resolution, it still works fine. I'd be happy with that, but there are certain games where the custom resolution refresh rate wont show up as an option. 

Any ideas?


----------



## lightsout

ttnuagmada said:


> has anyone had any issues with the more recent nvidia drivers? Ever since 411.xx or so, I can no longer get anything above 84hz to show up in the resolution options. If I make a custom resolution, it still works fine. I'd be happy with that, but there are certain games where the custom resolution refresh rate wont show up as an option.
> 
> Any ideas?


I wasn't aware of a way to OC without a custom resolution.

Does anyone know of a DP to DVI adapter that will allow overclocking? Do the expensive active ones work? Every time I want to get a new monitor I change my mind because this thing looks too good.


----------



## Ovrclck

lightsout said:


> I wasn't aware of a way to OC without a custom resolution.
> 
> Does anyone know of a DP to DVI adapter that will allow overclocking? Do the expensive active ones work? Every time I want to get a new monitor I change my mind because this thing looks too good.


From my research, most can hit 75Hz or maybe a little more but I could be wrong.


----------



## lightsout

Ovrclck said:


> From my research, most can hit 75Hz or maybe a little more but I could be wrong.


I want 120hz!


----------



## Some Tech Nub

You'd likely pay for an adapter that's almost as expensive as the monitor itself if you want to overclock.


----------



## lightsout

Some Tech Nub said:


> You'd likely pay for an adapter that's almost as expensive as the monitor itself if you want to overclock.


I know and I definitely don't want to do that. I might end up trading the card with someone, for a card that has dvi. Have someone that may be interested.


----------



## ttnuagmada

lightsout said:


> I wasn't aware of a way to OC without a custom resolution.
> 
> Does anyone know of a DP to DVI adapter that will allow overclocking? Do the expensive active ones work? Every time I want to get a new monitor I change my mind because this thing looks too good.


The way most everyone had been doing it from the beginning was using CRU combined with the ToastyX pixel patcher. Custom resolution has issues with certain games. CRU/pixel patcher was the original way to OC a display and also the least problematic.


----------



## lightsout

ttnuagmada said:


> The way most everyone had been doing it from the beginning was using CRU combined with the ToastyX pixel patcher. Custom resolution has issues with certain games. CRU/pixel patcher was the original way to OC a display and also the least problematic.


I remember early, and especially with amd that stuff was needed but Nvidia has been super easy for a long time. But I only play a couple games so maybe that's why I didn't run into those issues. I had a Shimian when they first came out, and have had an X star since 2013.


----------



## ttnuagmada

lightsout said:


> I remember early, and especially with amd that stuff was needed but Nvidia has been super easy for a long time. But I only play a couple games so maybe that's why I didn't run into those issues. I had a Shimian when they first came out, and have had an X star since 2013.


Custom res is mostly fine, but for example; the reason i even made a post in here is because Battlefield 5 doesn't play nice with custom resolutions. It will only work with the OS refresh rates, something in a fairly recent Nvidia driver broke CRU/pixel patcher and so now I can't do anything above 90hz in BFV. ( think it started with 411.xx)


----------



## lightsout

ttnuagmada said:


> Custom res is mostly fine, but for example; the reason i even made a post in here is because Battlefield 5 doesn't play nice with custom resolutions. It will only work with the OS refresh rates, something in a fairly recent Nvidia driver broke CRU/pixel patcher and so now I can't do anything above 90hz in BFV. ( think it started with 411.xx)


I can do a custom resolution through the Nvidia control panel at 120hz and it works in BFV. What's the limiting factor on your end? Your GPU?


----------



## ttnuagmada

lightsout said:


> I can do a custom resolution through the Nvidia control panel at 120hz and it works in BFV. What's the limiting factor on your end? Your GPU?


Define "limiting factor".

Also, I'd like to see some evidence that you're running in full screen mode at 120hz. I'm not talking about borderless. This was a known problem with BF1 as well.


----------



## herericc

Has anyone investigated buying a new (compatible) logic board to replace the original for these panels? I'd like to modernize my monitors with DP input if possible and I love the panels / all the DP/DVID adapters I've used result in artifacts on the monitors.

I have 2 QNIX 2710s that are debezelled so keeping them for a few years yet would be very nice!


----------



## lightsout

ttnuagmada said:


> Define "limiting factor".
> 
> Also, I'd like to see some evidence that you're running in full screen mode at 120hz. I'm not talking about borderless. This was a known problem with BF1 as well.


What I meant was why can't you just set it in the control panel.

And sorry but I don't feel the need to prove myself here and show evidence, why in the world would I be lying, I currently have a 1080ti that requires an adapter, so I have to swap out for my 1060 to do any overclocking on the monitor.

That said I did just that the other day and it worked fine, I only play in full screen btw. But I don't think I mentioned BF1, I was playing BFV. But the same settings always worked for BF3 and BF4. 

I just use the numbers from the OP for OCing on Nvidia. (screen shot is not mine its in the OP)


----------



## ttnuagmada

Im not calling you a liar, im just saying that your making a claim that is counter to an issue that has been known for years and that BFV still has the same issue that BF1 had in regards to any Nvidia custom res refresh rates not running in full screen mode. It has to be an EDID refresh rate to work in full screen mode.



> What I meant was why can't you just set it in the control panel.


That's what I'm trying to explain to you. There are games that wont treat Nvidia custom resolutions/refresh the same as an EDID resolution/refresh


----------



## lightsout

ttnuagmada said:


> Im not calling you a liar, im just saying that your making a claim that is counter to an issue that has been known for years and that BFV still has the same issue that BF1 had in regards to any Nvidia custom res refresh rates not running in full screen mode. It has to be an EDID refresh rate to work in full screen mode.
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm trying to explain to you. There are games that wont treat Nvidia custom resolutions/refresh the same as an EDID resolution/refresh


I get it that they are treated different, I am just saying, I set up the custom refresh, went into BFV and set it to 1440p 120hz. I just opened the game to make sure and its set to full screen, I never change that setting, I even went back and forth a couple times because I was trying to see if I really notice a difference with 120hz because I am considering trading my gpu.

I also did the frame skipping test with a camera at 1/6 because someone was trying to say there is no way my monitor is doing 120hz. Not sure what I am missing here.


----------



## lightsout

ttnuagmada said:


> Im not calling you a liar, im just saying that your making a claim that is counter to an issue that has been known for years and that BFV still has the same issue that BF1 had in regards to any Nvidia custom res refresh rates not running in full screen mode. It has to be an EDID refresh rate to work in full screen mode.
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm trying to explain to you. There are games that wont treat Nvidia custom resolutions/refresh the same as an EDID resolution/refresh


Here you go after I said I didn't have to prove myself lol. You had me questioning my sanity. This is with 120hz applied you can see at the bottom is doesn't say "apply video settings".

Does "120hz" show up for you in windows when you set it as a custom res?


----------



## lightsout

So I scored a sweet deal on eBay for a 32" 1440p 144hz LG.

Curious for you guys that have recently been selling off your monitors what have you got for them?


----------



## Some Tech Nub

$125 + Shipping as of 8 months ago.

Yeah, selling monitors has pretty terrible return on investment.


----------



## lightsout

Some Tech Nub said:


> $125 + Shipping as of 8 months ago.
> 
> Yeah, selling monitors has pretty terrible return on investment.


Yeah seems to be. At this point I'll take $100 but it's gotta be local because the box is long gone. 

Black Friday not the best time to sell stuff when so many deals have been going on.


----------



## bond32

lightsout said:


> Yeah seems to be. At this point I'll take $100 but it's gotta be local because the box is long gone.
> 
> Black Friday not the best time to sell stuff when so many deals have been going on.


If I found 2 more for anywhere near that price I would jump on them... Not much local here though


----------



## lightsout

bond32 said:


> If I found 2 more for anywhere near that price I would jump on them... Not much local here though


Sent you a pm.


----------



## Ovrclck

lightsout said:


> So I scored a sweet deal on eBay for a 32" 1440p 144hz LG.
> 
> Curious for you guys that have recently been selling off your monitors what have you got for them?


That's a nice upgrade!


----------



## lightsout

Ovrclck said:


> That's a nice upgrade!


Yeah I can't wait, was also able to swap my blower 1080ti that was limited in clock because of heat for a FTW3! Should be a pretty sweet pair.


----------



## bmgjet

lightsout said:


> So I scored a sweet deal on eBay for a 32" 1440p 144hz LG.
> 
> Curious for you guys that have recently been selling off your monitors what have you got for them?


I couldnt part with mine lol.
One of the best buys for PC gear iv ever had. Does 100hz still to this day but does look really dated next to a pg27uq.


----------



## lightsout

bmgjet said:


> I couldnt part with mine lol.
> One of the best buys for PC gear iv ever had. Does 100hz still to this day but does look really dated next to a pg27uq.


I know its been a great investment, and you still can beat the PQ/colors. I don't have room on my desk. But I am tired of the huge bezels and wobbly stand. Time for something more sleek.


----------



## bond32

lightsout said:


> Sent you a pm.


Sorry for the delayed response. I don't always check on things here seeing how these forums are almost dead.


----------



## blackdragonbird

Can anyone point me to any tutorial in how fix the light bleeding in an old X-Star DP2710? All the ones I found are too old and can't have the photos anymore, because they got deleted in the hosting site.

I read that you can open it and unbend the metal plate that is behind the panel, but, I have no idea in how to do it without damaging my display. Never did it before. Some tutorial with pictures or even better, a video will be very handy.

About the discussion of overclocking, yes, last nVidia drivers do not work good with Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher, you can only do 84hz max, it's the bandwidth limit for DVI ports set in the driver. Unfortunately the developer of the Patcher don't have a new GPU to test the issue and fix it. You are stuck in 84hz OR use use the nVidia custom resolution to go over it.


----------



## lightsout

blackdragonbird said:


> Can anyone point me to any tutorial in how fix the light bleeding in an old X-Star DP2710? All the ones I found are too old and can't have the photos anymore, because they got deleted in the hosting site.
> 
> I read that you can open it and unbend the metal plate that is behind the panel, but, I have no idea in how to do it without damaging my display. Never did it before. Some tutorial with pictures or even better, a video will be very handy.
> 
> About the discussion of overclocking, yes, last nVidia drivers do not work good with Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher, you can only do 84hz max, it's the bandwidth limit for DVI ports set in the driver. Unfortunately the developer of the Patcher don't have a new GPU to test the issue and fix it. You are stuck in 84hz OR use use the nVidia custom resolution to go over it.


Did the patcher work better than custom res?


----------



## blackdragonbird

You mean CRU? Yes, it's better than custom resolution. Some games for some reason do not see the custom resolution refresh rate. CRU change it in the register, making the system see that your custom refresh rate is the system default. But you need the patcher to go over 84hz over Dual DVI. I was using 96hz with 38x.xx drivers, now I'm using only 84hz. Not much difference, but in some games i use half refresh rate to make it smooth and do not overheat my old gtx970, I dropped from 48fps to 42fps, and this little drop make some games I played not completely smooth.


----------



## ToastyX

blackdragonbird said:


> About the discussion of overclocking, yes, last nVidia drivers do not work good with Nvidia Pixel Clock Patcher, you can only do 84hz max, it's the bandwidth limit for DVI ports set in the driver. Unfortunately the developer of the Patcher don't have a new GPU to test the issue and fix it. You are stuck in 84hz OR use use the nVidia custom resolution to go over it.


The patcher has been updated: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher

I also have monitor .inf files that allow more games to recognize higher refresh rates when using the NVIDIA control panel: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Catleap-QNIX-Tempest-X-Star-monitor-inf-files


----------



## lightsout

ToastyX said:


> The patcher has been updated: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-NVIDIA-Pixel-Clock-Patcher
> 
> I also have monitor .inf files that allow more games to recognize higher refresh rates when using the NVIDIA control panel: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Catleap-QNIX-Tempest-X-Star-monitor-inf-files


Sweet thanks bro!


----------



## cafeoh

Hey!

I bought my XStar DP2710 in 2014, and it finally gave out today. Turned the screen on this morning, it switched off after a few seconds and started smelling like burned plastic.

Long story short after quickly unplugging it and opening the monitor up it seems the culprit is a MOSFET (or at least it's the one part I could identify as overheating, smelling burnt and visibly leaking). Now I know close to nothing about electronics, but considering the MOSFET in question is not a tiny part I thought I could resolder a new one without too much trouble. My two options are then to either buy a new MOSFET, or buy a new board.

The mosfet's model is "540N 3811G" and the board model is "DPL-2560LS REV.01". by DisplayLand. I've looked around but I can't find either on sale and the board manufacturer's website is blank (http://displayland.co).

I'm a bit stuck right now and any idea/suggestion on how to approach this would be extremely appreciated!

Thanks! (attached a picture of the transistor in question)


----------



## usernamedesired

Is anyone having issues with custom resolution automatically changing?

Went into control panel and checked the resolution and saw it was set back to 60hz and not 100hz as I set, Thats twice Ive had to do it now.

I think it may be something to do with the lenovo VR headset and windows 10. Untill windows 1809 windows couldnt deal with multple displays with different refresh rates.


----------



## UpsetChap

cafeoh said:


> The mosfet's model is "540N 3811G" and the board model is "DPL-2560LS REV.01". by DisplayLand.


Good luck finding a replacement board at this point - all searches I did came up blank. However, I did do quite a bit of searching about the mosfet and a suitable replacement - as it turned out my issue wasn't the mosfet but I can at least share my findings:

The model used is apparantly a chinese clone of the rf540nspbf, https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irf540nspbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a4015355e3a72819a3 so you might be able to chase up one of those as a like for like but I had trouble with that too. After some research I settled on getting an IRFR3410PBF, http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/696686.pdf but no guarantees on this one - if anyone else with more electrical engineering knowledge can chime in on this it would be most welcome!


----------



## UpsetChap

blackdragonbird said:


> Can anyone point me to any tutorial in how fix the light bleeding in an old X-Star DP2710? All the ones I found are too old and can't have the photos anymore, because they got deleted in the hosting site.


Guess I could PM you this but I thought I'd post it here for posterity.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5piavGXZDJv3Wj2E4MT_iE


----------



## lightsout

Took me over a month to sell my monitor. Local pickup deal on eBay for $100. 

It was a good run. I think I had had that one since 2013.


----------



## bomerr

I'm upgrading to the LG 27" 4K 60hz display. Had this monitor since 2014 and it's time to move on.

For anyone still interested in this monitor, the big weaknesses are

1) Lack of sRGB color gamut: mine is only 92% with reds being weak.
2) Response time: No OD means that despite being able to overclock to ~100hz, the imagine will have more ghosting than a 60hz panel.
3) DVI-DL is dead.


----------



## bomerr

I'm upgrading to the LG 27" 4K 60hz display. Had this monitor since 2014 and it's time to move on.

For anyone still interested in this monitor, the big weaknesses are

1) Lack of sRGB color gamut: mine is only 92% with reds being weak.
2) Response time: No OD means that despite being able to overclock to ~100hz, the imagine will have more ghosting than a 60hz panel.
3


----------



## Xinoxide

I just handed my old QNIX down to my 7yo son. He is pushing it with a 1050ti, does very well in games like cuphead and minecraft.

Upgraded me to a Viotek GN34C. 100hz 3440x1440P panel. 

My Qnix was a frankenstein project from boards and panels from people here and elsewhere who's monitors had failed.

Going to miss that board glued to panel glued onto a universal vesa mount.

Mine specifically could do 119~120hz with minimal artifacts. Gonna miss her, but I am enjoying this freesync setup now.


----------



## blunden

I'm sure someone has mentioned this at some point in this thread but I figured I'd point it out anyway since I just noticed it today. Since the VESA mounting holes aren't centered vertically (only horizontally), the monitor doesn't properly balance itself when mounted in a VESA-mount with a swivel feature that can't be locked. I had to put a small cardboard box under the unbalanced side so that it can rest on the table. I really wish that they would've thought about that when they designed the monitor chassi (whoever designed this generic chassi).

On the upside, it looks much better in portrait mode than other monitors I've had mounted like that.


----------



## dante`afk

I ended up selling both my Qnixs since the 2080Tis have no dvi ports and OC is not possible.

rip


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Xinoxide said:


> I just handed my old QNIX down to my 7yo son. He is pushing it with a 1050ti, does very well in games like cuphead and minecraft.
> 
> Upgraded me to a Viotek GN34C. 100hz 3440x1440P panel.
> 
> My Qnix was a frankenstein project from boards and panels from people here and elsewhere who's monitors had failed.
> 
> Going to miss that board glued to panel glued onto a universal vesa mount.
> 
> Mine specifically could do 119~120hz with minimal artifacts. Gonna miss her, but I am enjoying this freesync setup now.


The 1050ti should be able to handle more than that for the QNIX. I still play the latest (retaliative to me) on my GTX 780, which is equivalent to the 1050Ti. Mainly Killing Floor 2 & MGS:V. 

My panel only goes to about 110hz before artifacting but it dithers and the white balance is off. I keep it at 96hz and it's the best of both worlds.

OT: Just wanted to chime in as I have had my panel since 2013 and it still runs flawlessly


----------



## Dotachin

I'm holding on till 43" or smaller LG oled with HDMI 2.1 
Another year won't matter


----------



## Xinoxide

Slaughtahouse said:


> The 1050ti should be able to handle more than that for the QNIX. I still play the latest (retaliative to me) on my GTX 780, which is equivalent to the 1050Ti. Mainly Killing Floor 2 & MGS:V.
> 
> My panel only goes to about 110hz before artifacting but it dithers and the white balance is off. I keep it at 96hz and it's the best of both worlds.
> 
> OT: Just wanted to chime in as I have had my panel since 2013 and it still runs flawlessly


Hes got Fortnite on there as well, That one did run quite well for a 1050ti. He's been playing creative mode a little bit. But of course as a 7 year old hes mostly sucked into minecraft.

Now my Vega64 on the other hand... having a hard time with MEA at 3440x1440 .


----------



## 3m3k

*Adapters for HDMI or DP only card*

Hi, Finally said goodbye to my 780's SLI and upgraded to Titan XP (DP or HDMI only). Anyone used the qnix with adapter? i had few laying around but none is working. Looks like all them are single link. Any tested out adapters out there? HDMI or DP -> DVI Dual link that would work with Qnix (mostly used for gaming) ? Or should I ease my wife into a monitor upgrade? Don't want anything to cost more than 20 quid as it would defeat the purpose of a cheap screen. Thanks in advance


----------



## lightsout

3m3k said:


> Hi, Finally said goodbye to my 780's SLI and upgraded to Titan XP (DP or HDMI only). Anyone used the qnix with adapter? i had few laying around but none is working. Looks like all them are single link. Any tested out adapters out there? HDMI or DP -> DVI Dual link that would work with Qnix (mostly used for gaming) ? Or should I ease my wife into a monitor upgrade? Don't want anything to cost more than 20 quid as it would defeat the purpose of a cheap screen. Thanks in advance


I did the same thing as you (ended up getting monitor anyways). But I used this one and it worked great. FYI it will only do 60hz, as pretty much any wil only do 60hz. (you may be able to spend a lot and find one that OC's but probably not)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQQ2HDC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## lurker2501

After the overclock to 120hz my monitor becomes significantly darker. Is there a color profile for the oc that makes it default color again?


----------



## Xinoxide

lurker2501 said:


> After the overclock to 120hz my monitor becomes significantly darker. Is there a color profile for the oc that makes it default color again?


You probably wont be able to get the original color back, but you can adjust the color properties in your graphics drivers to get some back.


----------



## Jyve

lurker2501 said:


> After the overclock to 120hz my monitor becomes significantly darker. Is there a color profile for the oc that makes it default color again?


It's been a while since I've had this monitor and overclocked it but if I remember correctly it's a gamma thing. Maybe try searching for overclocking qnix and gamma.


----------



## 3m3k

thanks for the advice , ended up getting a new screen as well , went with Viewsonic XG 2703-GS, it was a steal from amazon warehouse for £328 (same price as qnix with taxes 5 years ago) , went through 4 different adapters before realizing i need an active one... well ,after 5 years Qnix will take an honorable watch as a side screen....


----------



## lightsout

lurker2501 said:


> After the overclock to 120hz my monitor becomes significantly darker. Is there a color profile for the oc that makes it default color again?


Yeah its something related to Gamma, mine did the same thing, not sure its fixable.


----------



## vato3001

I think my Power Adapter died ---_---
Where i can buy a New onze with the EU plug, THX. 

When i plug in the cable to the qnix PCB, there is a strange knocking sound from behind my qnix its coming from the PCB i think. 
I hope my PCB is not damaged :-(


----------



## Yuri_RP

Currently using Windows 10 Pro and upgraded my PC to a NVLINK 2 x RTX2080 Ti setup. Any suggestions to make this monitor run in 120Hz on my setup? Previously run it on an AMD R295X2 just fine. Btw I'm using Active Adapter for it.


----------



## lightsout

Yuri_RP said:


> Currently using Windows 10 Pro and upgraded my PC to a NVLINK 2 x RTX2080 Ti setup. Any suggestions to make this monitor run in 120Hz on my setup? Previously run it on an AMD R295X2 just fine. Btw I'm using Active Adapter for it.


I have yet to see an adapter that can do 120hz. There may be something out there but I am sure its pretty expensive if it exists. 

But honestly if you can spend that much on GPU's get yourself a nice monitor. These things were nice in their day but I haven't regretted selling mine one bit.


----------



## vato3001

A new Power Adapter dont work :-(
My Qnix PCB just died :-(
I make some Photos for you guys from my PCB.


----------



## Xinoxide

There are control boards out there that are compatible with the panel in this monitor.

I remember researching them before deciding to upgrade away from the qnix and found some that were a match to work, I didn't save any of my research and I don't have the board available in my house to do the research again. 

Basically you need a 1440p controller that is pin compatible with the ribbons into the panel.

Might even try to shoot any sellers an email stating what panel it is and ask if it should work.


----------



## vato3001

Its an DPL-2560LS.REV.01
LTM270DL02-C01

5 Years on 96Hz


----------



## usernamedesired

Having some problems with custom resolution. Nvidia or windows keeps setting it back to 60hz, Now when I go to change it back to 100hz it does for a second, then instantly switched back to 60hz, any ideas?

My Custom resolution is still saved, just cant active it.


----------



## Xinoxide

usernamedesired said:


> Having some problems with custom resolution. Nvidia or windows keeps setting it back to 60hz, Now when I go to change it back to 100hz it does for a second, then instantly switched back to 60hz, any ideas?
> 
> My Custom resolution is still saved, just cant active it.


Use CRU, delete the existing 60hz entry.


----------



## nms43

Anyone need a board or PSU from a Qnix QX2710?

Sadly, something collided with and cracked my screen last weekend, and I don't imagine there are new panels floating around to replace it with.

RIP. Might try replacing with a Dell U2719d.


----------



## Xinoxide

nms43 said:


> Anyone need a board or PSU from a Qnix QX2710?
> 
> Sadly, something collided with and cracked my screen last weekend, and I don't imagine there are new panels floating around to replace it with.
> 
> RIP. Might try replacing with a Dell U2719d.


Vato3001 Does. hes like 2 posts up.


----------



## vato3001

@nms43
that would be awsome,surely i pay for the shipment 
contact me per PN 
Thank You


----------



## HappyHimitsu

*HappyHimitsu*

Hello, can anybody here please tell me the precise plug size for the power supply that goes into the monitor? 
My plug has had an unfortunate malfunction, and I would like to know if this one with its 2.5-2.1mmx5.5mm plug will work in its stead: 

https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-100-2...641&s=electronics&sr=1-2-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1


----------



## BulletSponge

HappyHimitsu said:


> Hello, can anybody here please tell me the precise plug size for the power supply that goes into the monitor?
> My plug has had an unfortunate malfunction, and I would like to know if this one with its 2.5-2.1mmx5.5mm plug will work in its stead:
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-100-2...641&s=electronics&sr=1-2-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1


Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply LCD 12V 5A 60W for Benq LCD Monitor FP2081 FP450 FP547 FP553 FP557 FP563 FP567 FP581 FP581 FP591 FP731, 5050 3528 RGB LED Strip Light, Dell S2440L S2440Lb LCD Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_16oTCbT57BHMB 

This is the one I purchased for my QNIX back in 2015. Both the QNIX and the adapter are still working flawlessly.


----------



## HappyHimitsu

BulletSponge said:


> Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply LCD 12V 5A 60W for Benq LCD Monitor FP2081 FP450 FP547 FP553 FP557 FP563 FP567 FP581 FP581 FP591 FP731, 5050 3528 RGB LED Strip Light, Dell S2440L S2440Lb LCD Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_16oTCbT57BHMB
> 
> This is the one I purchased for my QNIX back in 2015. Both the QNIX and the adapter are still working flawlessly.


Thanks, as the plug size seems to be the same as the adapter you listed (which is $40 here in Canada, ouch!) I decided to go with the one I linked. 

Will post back here with the results to help anyone else with the same issue.


----------



## vato3001

Now, i waiting for the Trackingnumber


----------



## vato3001

------

EDIT:

Sry about that, i must learn to have more patience 
Maybe you can forgive me that


----------



## nms43

Check your email mate 

All good! Glad to help you bring yours back to life.


----------



## vato3001

what are these for? i forget it 

Or what i must do with this ringholes? ^^

EDIT: My Old Panel just worked again with nms43's Power Adapter    

Thank you nms43


----------



## Junra

Mystery Monitor: I recently purchased what I thought was a secondhand QX2710 Multi True 10 here in India. I was quite happy with the display--it was a massive step up from the 21.5 in panel I was using before. But right off the bat, I noticed there was something really weird about the monitor. For starters, the panel has a slight curve to it, visible with the bezel removed, and which was causing the bezel to jut out a little at the top and bottom. But second, the monitor's OSD is COMPLETELY different from a regular 2710. One of the complaints with the Multi true 10 is that it's got input lag and no game mode feature to reduce the same. But, as seen in the screenshots below, my monitor's got 3 game modes AND low blue light modes, all of which work as they ought to. I've managed to overclock to 75 Hz without frameskipping (HDMI 1.4 tops out there...I've ordered a displayport cable to try setting it higher). I did some digging around and a Korean review site had a review of the QX2716R. Its OSD looks identical to my monitor's and it has the same functionality-- multiple Game and Low Blue Light modes--as my monitor does, which QX2710s apparently don't have. It'd be hilarious if someone on the QNIX assembly line accidentally stuck a 2716R panel in a 2710 bezel. I'd really appreciate some input here, and perhaps from 2716R owners too.


----------



## passinos

nms43 said:


> Anyone need a board or PSU from a Qnix QX2710?
> 
> Sadly, something collided with and cracked my screen last weekend, and I don't imagine there are new panels floating around to replace it with.
> 
> RIP. Might try replacing with a Dell U2719d.


do you still have the PCB?
I got 2 Qnix with blown PCBs


----------



## BulletSponge

If anyone in West Texas wants a DVI only 2710 that is fully functional I have one to give away. I cannot ship, it must be picked up.


----------



## vato3001

@BulletSponge 
Why you cant ship?


----------



## BulletSponge

vato3001 said:


> @BulletSponge
> Why you cant ship?


 The shipping would have been to much for me to cover. I wound up giving it to one of the city’s tech guys at City Hall. If a position ever opens there I am done with this animal control job.


----------



## uncleshady

Dude this is genius, probably cheaper than a job search agency. Good luck


----------



## LarsMarkelson

So something weird happened today with my trusty Qnix... I turned on my computer and the monitor started turning itself off then back on repeatedly. I stepped away for a few minutes then started smelling a weird electronics burning smell coming from the monitor. I disconnected everything and let it rest, now trying it again and the monitor keeps turning itself off then back on again.

Am I right in thinking something fried on the internals? Probably needs a new PCB I'm guessing... Oh well if that's the case I got a ton of great usage out of it!!


----------



## Ovrclck

LarsMarkelson said:


> So something weird happened today with my trusty Qnix... I turned on my computer and the monitor started turning itself off then back on repeatedly. I stepped away for a few minutes then started smelling a weird electronics burning smell coming from the monitor. I disconnected everything and let it rest, now trying it again and the monitor keeps turning itself off then back on again.
> 
> Am I right in thinking something fried on the internals? Probably needs a new PCB I'm guessing... Oh well if that's the case I got a ton of great usage out of it!!


RIP Qnix.


----------



## Optimum19

Hey guys,


I have an issue with my Qnix 2710. 



There seemed to be a loose connection at the place where you put in the cable to the ac adapter. The "head" of that cable was also bent and there were sparks whenever I plugged in the cable. 



So I decided to buy a new cable. The new cable had to be plugged in and fixed in a certain angle (which I did with ducktape). It has worked fine the past days. Today, however, my monitor is showing black bars at the left & right side and the pictures is being squeezed together in the middle of the screen.


Do you think the ac problem and the sparks might have fried some parts of the PCB which controls the scaling and such?
I have this problem with a different laptop as well so I guess it's the monitor.


Thx guys!


----------



## Senshi_x

I just today got a short on the logic board. Seems this is not entirely uncommon? Does anyone know where one can source a replacement for these? I tried googling, but came up empty.  

Alternatively, if someone has a QX with a wrecked display, I'd be very interested in the board, presuming it wasn't shattered as well  .


----------



## Ovrclck

I have an extra Qnix for sale. Local pickup only. Southern California. Pm me if interested...


----------



## Friskynoodle

BulletSponge said:


> If anyone in West Texas wants a DVI only 2710 that is fully functional I have one to give away. I cannot ship, it must be picked up.


You're just giving it away? That was nice of you.


----------



## BulletSponge

Friskynoodle said:


> You're just giving it away? That was nice of you.


 I gave it away locally a few weeks ago, sorry. I hated to see it go, so many sweet hour of gaming on that panel.


----------



## Jboss

How much do these sell for nowadays? The QNIX panel i have can OC to 96 Hz with a GTX 970.


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Anyone ever use Linux on this panel? Its pretty hard to get everything to be the right size. You've got too small, or gigantic. I think linux hates 1440p.


----------



## dir_d

I have my Glossy Xstar dusty in the box now. No need for it anymore. She lasted a long time and Oced to 96HZ but the little blue led light flickers.


----------



## MonChoon

Ive got a QNIX 2710 That I used for a while with zero issues. I have since been trying to get rid of it since I had to get rid of my desktop, but I cant seem to get it to work for my buddies computer. Rather, he cant seem to get it to work. He tried a DVI - HDMI cable, and also a DVI - DVI, cable, though im not 100% sure if its a DVI-D cable or not. He is using Windows 10 and says that it recognizes that a device was connected but wont let him install the driver. Any thoughts?


----------



## sinnedone

MonChoon said:


> Ive got a QNIX 2710 That I used for a while with zero issues. I have since been trying to get rid of it since I had to get rid of my desktop, but I cant seem to get it to work for my buddies computer. Rather, he cant seem to get it to work. He tried a DVI - HDMI cable, and also a DVI - DVI, cable, though im not 100% sure if its a DVI-D cable or not. He is using Windows 10 and says that it recognizes that a device was connected but wont let him install the driver. Any thoughts?



Do you mean he can't install GPU driver or the modded qnix monitor driver?

If the latter you disable driver verification in start up settings in Windows.



Regardless the monitor should work out of the box

If you


----------



## kingnothing7

I have a question for fellow QX2710 owners here. Mine died yesterday, and I'm wondering if it's something inside the monitor that went bad or the power switching adapter. The indicator light on the power switching adapter does not come on. Is it worth buying a replacement adapter on the chance that that's the issue?


----------



## Screemi

I had a very similar issue with mine about 2 years ago. Thought some of the pcbs died but actually it was the power supply. I replaced it an had no issues since then.


----------



## Quisp

Hello once more-

Here’s my fifth update regarding my three X-Star purchases from September, 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.

https://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-qnix-x-star-1440p-monitor-club/21860#post_23169288

After five years of ownership and continuous usage, my three X-Stars are still working just fine...No issues to report...

All three monitors are powered 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.

OS: Windows 10 Pro v.1903 Build 18362.295
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified (x2)


----------



## PhotonFanatic

Was there even any permanent solution to the light bleed problem with some of these monitors? The one I have just barely has the issue, but it is there in one of the corners.


----------



## kingnothing7

Just an update on my previously mentioned issue:



kingnothing7 said:


> I have a question for fellow QX2710 owners here. Mine died yesterday, and I'm wondering if it's something inside the monitor that went bad or the power switching adapter. The indicator light on the power switching adapter does not come on. Is it worth buying a replacement adapter on the chance that that's the issue?


I ordered this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DN6DXC6/

Got it today, and my monitor is working as good as new now.


----------



## Screemi

PhotonFanatic said:


> Was there even any permanent solution to the light bleed problem with some of these monitors? The one I have just barely has the issue, but it is there in one of the corners.


i taped over the metal frame under the plastic frame and the bleeding was nearly gone. The problem is that you have to open the whole panel and lift the bl, defuser and panel. You need to be extremely careful.


----------



## JMattes

Hey Guys,

Are these monitors still in demand?
I have two QX2710LED, the ones with only the DVI-D slot and was looking to sell them. 

Any idea what I can get for them?


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Monitor reselling is never great ROI. I managed to sell mine for $180 shipped two years ago. Probably a bit less now.


----------



## caenlen

Why does original post of this thread now say to use NVCP instead of CRU?

Lot of games only work if I use CRU still, like Dragon Age Origins. I can't find the timings anymore, anyone care to share QNIX 110hz timings for CRU?


----------



## cornbass

I think I fried the circuit board of my qnix with static electricity. It only color cycles now I’ve tried on multiple computers and it even cycles in the bios. I should probably just throw it away but the panel is so good (no dead pixels, no backlight bleed) that I want to salvage it. I couldn’t find a replacement board online. I’m thinking maybe I can buy an old qnix for parts or any other apple cinema panel monitor and put my panel in. Would that work?


----------



## caenlen

You are better off to just get a new monitor at this point. Nothing lasts forever.


----------



## cornbass

caenlen said:


> You are better off to just get a new monitor at this point. Nothing lasts forever.


Yeah thats probably true. I sorely remember the nightmare of trying to win the panel lottery last time though. Guess I’ll have to check out the amazon black friday deals then. Thanks for answering.


----------



## blackdragonbird

Nowadays there are any other good cheap alternative for these monitors? I'm thinking in replacing mine because new VGAs don't have DVI port in general.


----------



## matacks

blackdragonbird said:


> Nowadays there are any other good cheap alternative for these monitors? I'm thinking in replacing mine because new VGAs don't have DVI port in general.


Seems to me these type of monitors are harder to find these days. I've been using my qnix for years and it hasn't failed. But I too have wondered about newer stuff.

Pixio PX277

Crossover 27 Fast

Crossover 2795QHD

Crossover 27QX144 Cronus

Microboard M340CLZ

I found them on this website. There's others as well. Most of these should have display port and hdmi.. 

https://www.monitornerds.com/best-korean-monitors-cheap/


----------



## caenlen

gsync and freesync is a game changer imo... you should upgrade.


----------



## sinnedone

I'm going to have to agree.

Unless you have a GPU with DVI that can push over triple digit frames and then cap the frames at 120 in game engine or driver, adaptive sync just feels soooo good.


----------



## caenlen

sinnedone said:


> I'm going to have to agree.
> 
> Unless you have a GPU with DVI that can push over triple digit frames and then cap the frames at 120 in game engine or driver, adaptive sync just feels soooo good.


I actually think adaptive sync makes everything feel smooth, regardless if you can push triple digits or not. I was playing shadow of tomb raider earlier, i got 120 fps most of time, but sometimes I get dips into 90s and it really ruins the immersion on my QNIX, but on my laptop which has gsync, i don't notice that kind of stuff.


----------



## blackdragonbird

Yeah, nowadays there's no point to upgrade to monitor without freesync if you are going to game.



matacks said:


> Seems to me these type of monitors are harder to find these days. I've been using my qnix for years and it hasn't failed. But I too have wondered about newer stuff.
> 
> Pixio PX277
> 
> Crossover 27 Fast
> 
> Crossover 2795QHD
> 
> Crossover 27QX144 Cronus
> 
> Microboard M340CLZ
> 
> I found them on this website. There's others as well. Most of these should have display port and hdmi..
> 
> https://www.monitornerds.com/best-korean-monitors-cheap/




I will look in to the monitors suggested in the previous page. TY.


----------



## JackCY

A monitor without adaptive sync is nowadays fairly worthless and only suitable for pure Vsync usages such as in the office for some basic text work, or Vsynced video players. The moment one starts messing with interactive graphics, adaptive sync is the way to go.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Now with nvidia supporting both gsync and "freesync", it's definitely a no brainer to pick up a monitor which supports these technologies.

I have two Pixio PX277s and although it's not a game changer imo, it's definitely a nice-to-have for those few singleplayer games that are a bit harder to run.


----------



## Xinoxide

My son finally managed to destroy my PLS panel.

Anyone need PCB/wiring/buttons?


----------



## Sanis

Hello,

So first time overclocking my X-star monitor and I'm finding the default options for 96hz, 110hz and tightend timing for 120hz that lawson67 uses, brings my memory clock on my GTX 1080 to 5054MHz. The only time it is able to go down is through reverting back to 60Hz refresh. 

Is there something I'm doing wrong? I followed the guide to the best of my knowledge and I understand that using Lawson67's timing won't allow a memory downclock but 5054MHz is kind of worrying. Included is a picture of the timing and the default settings I'm using.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## TomcatV

*Haven't posted in YEARS :O*



Sanis said:


> Hello,
> 
> So first time overclocking my X-star monitor and I'm finding the default options for 96hz, 110hz and tightend timing for 120hz that lawson67 uses, brings my memory clock on my GTX 1080 to 5054MHz. The only time it is able to go down is through reverting back to 60Hz refresh.
> 
> Is there something I'm doing wrong? I followed the guide to the best of my knowledge and I understand that using Lawson67's timing won't allow a memory downclock but 5054MHz is kind of worrying. Included is a picture of the timing and the default settings I'm using.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


David and I solved your problem years ago with Maxwell, can't remember exactly how, I haven't posted in years but the answer is somewhere in here ... https://www.overclock.net/forum/44-...tors-new-timings-overclocking-guide-club.html
If I get the time to refresh my memory, I will look into it, but it may be a problem with Pascal and newer drivers. In any event high mem clocks aren't a problem Unless they're generating loads of heat


----------



## Sanis

TomcatV said:


> David and I solved your problem years ago with Maxwell, can't remember exactly how, I haven't posted in years but the answer is somewhere in here ... https://www.overclock.net/forum/44-...tors-new-timings-overclocking-guide-club.html
> If I get the time to refresh my memory, I will look into it, but it may be a problem with Pascal and newer drivers. In any event high mem clocks aren't a problem Unless they're generating loads of heat


Thanks for the reply Tomcat! I will look into this more. So running my mem at this speed won't have any noticeable long lasting damage except heat output from the GPU?

Also do you happen to know why when using the tightened timing for 120Hz I get a purple rectangular haze block on the left side of my screen? It begins from the left edge goes inward about 3 inches and from top to bottom separated from the edges of the screen by 2 inches.


----------



## Cindiquil

Not sure how often people check this thread nowadays, but I just switched from an AMD graphics card to a Nvidia one, so I've had to (try to) overclock my monitor again. I have the X-star. The issue is that when I go to install the drivers through the device manager, it tells me that Windows could not install the drivers because "The parameter is incorrect"

I've tried to search for a solution, but I haven't been able to find much that really seems to apply to my situation. I have no idea what to do at this point to make it work.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Cindiquil said:


> Not sure how often people check this thread nowadays, but I just switched from an AMD graphics card to a Nvidia one, so I've had to (try to) overclock my monitor again. I have the X-star. The issue is that when I go to install the drivers through the device manager, it tells me that Windows could not install the drivers because "The parameter is incorrect"
> 
> I've tried to search for a solution, but I haven't been able to find much that really seems to apply to my situation. I have no idea what to do at this point to make it work.


You don't need monitor drivers for nvidia cards iirc You should be able to set a refresh rate in the NVCP and be good to go.


----------



## mabbsyy

Hi all, i know this is a long shot, i've had my trusty X-Star monitor since late 2013 and it has now just given up, 
i've had a few issues with the PCB in the past but was always able to get it fixed, however now it looks like its beyond my repair. 
One of the pins from the power connector on the pcb has fried the board and it no longer wants to work, 
I'm trying to find anyone with a broken panel that would sell me their "DPL-2560LS.REV.01" PCB.

i've looked through this thread a lot and seen people have the same issue trying to get a hold of this PCB, 
and like others i have contacted Korean ebay shops that do refurbs in hopes that they have one but alas no luck yet!

I have purchased a new monitor but i have grown attached to this one. Its really done me well and i dont want to see it go just yet.


----------



## BulletSponge

Cindiquil said:


> Not sure how often people check this thread nowadays, but I just switched from an AMD graphics card to a Nvidia one, so I've had to (try to) overclock my monitor again. I have the X-star. The issue is that when I go to install the drivers through the device manager, it tells me that Windows could not install the drivers because "The parameter is incorrect"
> 
> I've tried to search for a solution, but I haven't been able to find much that really seems to apply to my situation. I have no idea what to do at this point to make it work.


 The drivers are unsigned therefore you need to look in these links to find a method. It's not too awfully hard, but it's been a good 4 years since I did it and I don't recall the exact process


----------



## Soupie

Is it worth buying this monitor still for $130?

It's the single DVI version.

Thank you.

I have a RX 580 8gb. Mainly play league and watch movies.


----------



## scott2003

*HDMI*

Hi Guys. Any idea how to use a HDMI connection with this monitor? I tried using this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PG1B4NX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

but it isnt working. Perhaps DVI-D and DVI differences?

I have teh X-star and all it has is a DVI port/Power/Headphone Jack.


----------



## FurtadoZ9

scott2003 said:


> Hi Guys. Any idea how to use a HDMI connection with this monitor? I tried using this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PG1B4NX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> but it isnt working. Perhaps DVI-D and DVI differences?
> 
> 
> I have teh X-star and all it has is a DVI port/Power/Headphone Jack.


Check out this calculator :

https://k.kramerav.com/support/bwcalculator.asp

The QNIX at 96hz needs 10.6 Gbps bandwidth.

HDMI 1.4 has a maximum throughput of 10.2 Gbps, whereas HDMI 2.0 has 18 Gbps.

So as long as you are using equipment / a conversion cable that supports those numbers, you should be fine.


----------



## Soupie

Hey guys, I OC'd mine to 96 and I wanted to use another monitor as well at 60 or 75hz. I have a AMD RX 580.

Will I encounter the problem of my refresh rate being limited by my slower monitor (60/75 hz)?

I play league of legends and sometimes stream to my friends and wanted to have OBS/Chat open on the 2nd monitor while playing on the Qnix


----------



## Sluggi

Hello, 

I accidentally pulled one of the wires out of the 6-pin connector to the panel for the LED backlight. Does anyone know where I can purchase a replacement cable? The cable has a different 6-pin connector on each end, for connecting to the panel and the circuit board.


----------



## Soupie

Hi I'm having problems.

I have the drivers installed for my AMD RX 580

I used the patcher and CRU to OC to 96Hz

I restarted my computer > windows monitor settings > Screen refresh rate > 

But it only shows 64 hz

Nothing else.

And for some reason, using the Patcher deletes my Drivers? When I try opening AMD control panel it says I need to install drivers.




EDIT: RIOT VANGUARD IS THE PROBLEM.


----------



## Ovrclck

Well folks. Looks like my LG 38GL950G 3840x1600 will be arriving tomorrow. We had some good times!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## mystycs

How does qnix QX2710 evolution ii compare to todays monitors?

I have an old qnix QX2710 evolution ii. I am looking at getting a new HDR 1440p monitor, for example the asus tuf vg27aq. Does the qx2710 still stack up to todays monitors? Looking at the specs theyre very similar. And the evo has 10 bit unlike the asus, and 50 lower nits.


----------



## pollo

Still using a QNIX at 120 Hz and interested in this as well. From my what I know, the current monitors mainly have less ghosting than the old Korean ones, but colors, contrast and overall screen quality should be very similar.


----------



## Kokin

My QX2710 pcb finally died after 6 years of 120Hz. It's been a good run and if anyone is interested in the functional 120Hz panel and lives in the Bay Area in Cali, send me a PM!



mystycs said:


> How does qnix QX2710 evolution ii compare to todays monitors?
> 
> I have an old qnix QX2710 evolution ii. I am looking at getting a new HDR 1440p monitor, for example the asus tuf vg27aq. Does the qx2710 still stack up to todays monitors? Looking at the specs theyre very similar. And the evo has 10 bit unlike the asus, and 50 lower nits.


More modern IPS panels should be a lot faster in response time (3-5ms average) and will support variable refresh rate via Freesync and/or GSync. You should also expect a wider color gamut, higher peak brightness and support for curved panels. 

If you want something different and more immersive than a 27" 1440p monitor, I would suggest looking at 34" Ultrawide monitors. I love my AW3418DW Ultrawide (3440x1440 120Hz IPS) and will look to swap it with my wife's LG 34UC88 as a secondary monitor if I end up buying either one of the upcoming LG 38GN950 or 38GN95C later this year.


----------



## pollo

Got a LG 27GL83A a few days ago. First thing I noticed was the horrible IPS Glow the LG has, especially in the lower left corner, never noticed it on my other IPS screens. I am trying to get used to it and notice it less now. The colors are less saturated and the contrast is worse imo. The latter seems to be the main weakness of the LG panels. 

What the LG does exceptionally well is smoothness. The monitor is really fast and gaming is so fun on this thing. I limited the refresh rate to 120 Hz and tried it out side by side with the QNIX at 120 Hz. Especially fps like Quake are a blast on the LG. In contrast, the QNIX is considerably slower than the LG and has ghosting. The QNIX isn't bad if you haven't tried anything faster, but gaming on the LG is similar to playing on a fast TN panel to me.

In conclusion, contrast and IPS glow are really bad on the LG. Colors are alright and responsiveness and overall speed are really good. I'd only get it, if you are mainly playing games on your computer. Monitors with an Innolux panel (e.g. Pixio PX7) might be better allrounders, haven't tried them though.


----------



## seanp2500

just fixed my desktop which means I can use my qnix again. Still going strong in 2020...


----------



## Ovrclck

seanp2500 said:


> just fixed my desktop which means I can use my qnix again. Still going strong in 2020...


Right on! I gifted both to my co-workers. I wish someone could hook me up like that hah.


----------



## Moragg

My XSTAR is still going strong @120Hz, 7 years later. If I was buying now, I'd go for a freesync LG nano-IPS display, but those are a lot more expensive than the £250 this cost me.
Got a new primary monitor coming, but I imagine this will make a good secondary monitor for years to come.


----------



## causese1990

Moragg said:


> My XSTAR is still going strong @120Hz, 7 years later. If I was buying now, I'd go for a freesync LG nano-IPS display, but those are a lot more expensive than the £250 this cost me.
> Got a new primary monitor coming, but I imagine this will make a good secondary monitor for years to come.


my xstar had no hdmi so I had to get rid off it since modern GPUs only have hdmi/display port/usb-c compatibility


----------



## Nyanchovy

Looking for a replacement PCB ("DLP-9685LS REV.01") for a *QNIX 2710LCD* if anyone has any leads please let me know!
Thanks.


----------



## Moragg

causese1990 said:


> my xstar had no hdmi so I had to get rid off it since modern GPUs only have hdmi/display port/usb-c compatibility


Ugh, that sucks - I was planning to upgrade GPU with the 4000 series, didn't realise DVI-D is already dead.
Looks like it's 1080Ti for a few more years, and then decide what to do with this monitor.


----------



## 82EE

Hey guys,
after owning the Qnix since march 2013 i think it broke today. After using it normally yesterday without any problems today the monitor only shows a black screen (blue LED on). Is it the pcb that broke? I just took him apart to check all cables from the pcb to the panel but everything seemed ok. No visible damage on the pcb (burnmarks?) either. Still no signal even after putting it back together. Does anyone of you experts have any suggestions on what i can try to verify a broken pcb? Unfortunately, i do not own any electric equipment to check for damage. So i guess this will make this process close to impossible, but i thought i might give it a shot. 
I always knew this day would come eventually but it took me by suprise this morning as no problems occured beforehand what so ever. I had it successfully OCd to 96hz for all those years, so this might be an issue as well.


----------



## Nyanchovy

82EE said:


> Hey guys,
> after owning the Qnix since march 2013 i think it broke today. After using it normally yesterday without any problems today the monitor only shows a black screen (blue LED on). Is it the pcb that broke? I just took him apart to check all cables from the pcb to the panel but everything seemed ok. No visible damage on the pcb (burnmarks?) either. Still no signal even after putting it back together. Does anyone of you experts have any suggestions on what i can try to verify a broken pcb? Unfortunately, i do not own any electric equipment to check for damage. So i guess this will make this process close to impossible, but i thought i might give it a shot.
> I always knew this day would come eventually but it took me by suprise this morning as no problems occured beforehand what so ever. I had it successfully OCd to 96hz for all those years, so this might be an issue as well.


Was your power brick running hot before that? Mine was, I buzzed the board out to a dead mosfet. Googling around that seems to be a common failure mode. Since these boards are like hen's teeth now I'd keep it and try and get it repaired. The company I bought mine from has gone out of business so no luck for me there!


----------



## 82EE

Nyanchovy said:


> Was your power brick running hot before that? Mine was, I buzzed the board out to a dead mosfet.


Not that i know of. I tested it and it stays pretty cool for a pb that is. How high are the chances that the cable or dvi port on the grafics card are broken? Slim to none, right? I have no possibility to test the monitor on another pc. i purchased the hp x27i as a replacement and its a pretty huge upgrade tbh. was not expecting that.


----------



## seanp2500

anyone know how to force install driver in windows 10 now?

had to press shift while restarting go into troubleshoot then advanced options then 7 for disable driver signature reinforcement...


----------



## Kokin

82EE said:


> Hey guys,
> after owning the Qnix since march 2013 i think it broke today. After using it normally yesterday without any problems today the monitor only shows a black screen (blue LED on). Is it the pcb that broke? I just took him apart to check all cables from the pcb to the panel but everything seemed ok. No visible damage on the pcb (burnmarks?) either. Still no signal even after putting it back together. Does anyone of you experts have any suggestions on what i can try to verify a broken pcb? Unfortunately, i do not own any electric equipment to check for damage. So i guess this will make this process close to impossible, but i thought i might give it a shot.
> I always knew this day would come eventually but it took me by suprise this morning as no problems occured beforehand what so ever. I had it successfully OCd to 96hz for all those years, so this might be an issue as well.


Same thing has happened to me twice. I bought a Qnix back in 2012/2013 and had to buy a new one in 2014, which then lasted until recently. The original power brick did run pretty hot and I bought a new one that didn't run quite as hot. I kept the panel from the first Qnix and was able to use the second PCB to continue running 120Hz. It's very likely that PCB capacitors and/or mosfets burned out due to heat/age. 

I still have a 120hz-capable Qnix panel to give away if anyone is interested. 

Luckily found a new but opened box of an Acer CZ380CQK (38" IPS 3840x1600 75Hz Ultrawide) which works as a much better secondary monitor replacement and now I have a vertically stacked Ultrawide setup. :thumb:


----------



## Chowchilla

Wow, My first post here was 2014!

Stick rocking my QNIX though I'm after an upgrade. Is there anything around the same size that's as good value? 

Many thanks!


----------



## GerryTheLeper

Does anyone know if the 2700 can be overclocked like the 2710 can?


----------



## skupples

82EE said:


> Hey guys,
> after owning the Qnix since march 2013 i think it broke today. After using it normally yesterday without any problems today the monitor only shows a black screen (blue LED on). Is it the pcb that broke? I just took him apart to check all cables from the pcb to the panel but everything seemed ok. No visible damage on the pcb (burnmarks?) either. Still no signal even after putting it back together. Does anyone of you experts have any suggestions on what i can try to verify a broken pcb? Unfortunately, i do not own any electric equipment to check for damage. So i guess this will make this process close to impossible, but i thought i might give it a shot.
> I always knew this day would come eventually but it took me by suprise this morning as no problems occured beforehand what so ever. I had it successfully OCd to 96hz for all those years, so this might be an issue as well.


either the panel died, or a board component died. 

when you say black screen do you mean is emitting black, or zero illumination? 

you'd have to know what to probe with a multimeter, if its a board level component. (busted cap/mosfet maybe? that's how most of my TVs have gone)


----------



## Harry604

Bought my qnix 2710 in 2013 used it 2 days ago screen just went black... no red or blue power led monitor does not turn on.. bought power brick on amazon still doesn’t turn on... had it overclocked too 120hz.. any ideas


----------



## Dominik

Still loving my QNIX QX2700! Its been working great for the past 5 years!


----------



## Quisp

Hello once more-

Here’s my sixth update regarding my three X-Star purchases from September, 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.

[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club

After six years of ownership and continuous usage, my three X-Stars are still working just fine...No issues to report...

All three monitors are powered 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.

OS: Windows 10 Pro v.2004 Build 19041.508
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified (x2)


----------



## BulletSponge

Glorious, I still regret giving away my DVI only 2710 😞


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Quisp said:


> Hello once more-
> 
> Here’s my sixth update regarding my three X-Star purchases from September, 2014...Post #21863 on page 2187 of this thread.
> 
> [Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club
> 
> After six years of ownership and continuous usage, my three X-Stars are still working just fine...No issues to report...
> 
> All three monitors are powered 24/7 at a 96Hz overclock.
> 
> OS: Windows 10 Pro v.2004 Build 19041.508
> GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified (x2)
> View attachment 2459320
> View attachment 2459321
> View attachment 2459322
> View attachment 2459323


Wow, very cool. I gave away my QNIX to a friend in 2015. He's been running 96hz ever since.

Still blows my mind how I was able to purchase an off-brand 1440p overclockable panel for less than $300 USD, and have it internationally overnighted to me for no charge.

Great monitors.


----------



## Kokin

If anyone lives in the Bay Area (CA), I have a 120Hz capable DVI-only QX2710 with a busted PCB to give away for free. There was someone who was previously interested but never got back to me. I will likely dispose of this monitor in the upcoming month or two, so if you have a working PCB and cannot hit 120Hz on your panel, this is your chance. 

Claimed by FurtadoZ9


----------



## FurtadoZ9

Kokin said:


> If anyone lives in the Bay Area (CA), I have a 120Hz capable DVI-only QX2710 with a busted PCB to give away for free. There was someone who was previously interested but never got back to me. I will likely dispose of this monitor in the upcoming month or two, so if you have a working PCB and cannot hit 120Hz on your panel, this is your chance.


I live in Brentwood, and am interested!


----------



## bmgjet

Any one know what the goto DP/HDMI to DVI-D converter.
My new GPU doesnt have DVI on it.


----------



## UpsetChap

I really hate how DVI-D isn't on any new gfx cards, I'm happy with the pair of these I have and unless someone can show me an alternative that won't break the bank I don't see anything that I want to upgrade to monitor wise.

Anyway this is more of another post for posterity and anyone who comes looking at this thread for repairing the boards on these. The replacement mosfet I found after quite the research trail was this: IRFR3410PBF Transistor N-MOSFET unipolar HEXFET 100V 31A 110W DPAK. In the end I didn't have to change the mosfet as it was a broken power brick but this should do the trick for anyone that needs to replace one - UNLESS someone who is more technically minded than me can come along and say that this is incorrect!


----------



## stimpy88

Just a heads up for anyone who may be interested...

I just purchased a Club 3D CAC-1510 USB-C to Dual-Link DVI adaptor for using with my QNIX QX2710 and my RTX2070. After making a custom resolution with the nVidia control panel, my monitor is back to running at 120Hz for the first time in a couple of years.

So if you have a graphics card with a USB-C output, grab this adaptor and get yourself back to some high refresh rate gaming!

Now, does anyone have some recent color profiles for this monitor? The ones recently shared here have quite a pink tint to the mid and low greys.


----------



## UpsetChap

colorpro.zip







drive.google.com





Collected all the profiles I have there, have at it. Also interesting stuff with the usb c adaptor. There doesn't seem to be anything special about the club 3D one so I would assume there's others that will also do the job?


----------



## stimpy88

UpsetChap said:


> colorpro.zip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drive.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Collected all the profiles I have there, have at it. Also interesting stuff with the usb c adaptor. There doesn't seem to be anything special about the club 3D one so I would assume there's others that will also do the job?


Many thanks for sharing!

Regarding the adaptor, I wish I knew. But after many years of buying cheap, as well as very expensive adaptors to get this monitor back to 120Hz, this is the only one that does it for me. Just don't buy the non-HDCP version!


----------



## LodeyDodey

Was hoping someone could help me with an issue!

I got one of these DP2710 monitors a few years back, and recently it failed on me and started emitting some smoke--I turned it off immediately and haven't used it. Some folks said it could be a blown capacitor, is this a known issue with these monitors?


I'm reluctant to part ways with it just yet, thought maybe I'd ask if this is something I could attempt to fix? The screen should be fine, maybe it's just the circuit board that needs replacement? Or just replace the bad capacitor?


----------



## bmgjet

LodeyDodey said:


> Was hoping someone could help me with an issue!
> 
> I got one of these DP2710 monitors a few years back, and recently it failed on me and started emitting some smoke--I turned it off immediately and haven't used it. Some folks said it could be a blown capacitor, is this a known issue with these monitors?
> 
> 
> I'm reluctant to part ways with it just yet, thought maybe I'd ask if this is something I could attempt to fix? The screen should be fine, maybe it's just the circuit board that needs replacement? Or just replace the bad capacitor?



You wont know until you open it up.
See whats damaged and if its taken anything else with it.

----

Got my 3090 today so no more DVI port for my screen.
Went though a couple DP to DVI adapter and they are all junk.

All the passive ones wont do over 50hz of screen is just flashing colours.
First 2 active ones I tried did 60hz with a line flashing every now and again. So could use that as reason to exchange them.
Best one I found was Dynamix C-DPAC-DVI DP male to DVI Female Active Converter.
Does 74hz perfectly, 75hz if flashes a line every now and again.
So ill just have to live with that but atleast I get to keep 4 screens working.


----------



## LodeyDodey

bmgjet said:


> You wont know until you open it up.
> See whats damaged and if its taken anything else with it.





















Looks like something burnt? Can't tell specifically.


----------



## LodeyDodey

Anyone selling a dpl-2560LS.rev.01? That's the board on the inside of my X-Star DP2710, would be willing to buy one if someone has a broken screen and not sure what to do with it. Figured I'd give it a shot!


----------



## bmgjet

Transistor has over heated and melted some of the board coating.
Should be able to replace that transistor. But first find whats shorted it to cause it to be switching too much current.
Maybe the power supply or the board has gotten damp at some point.


----------



## LodeyDodey

Well, I had it overclocked to 96 hz and that's probably what did it. Where could I find a transistor like that, do you think?


----------



## LodeyDodey

bmgjet said:


> Transistor has over heated and melted some of the board coating.
> Should be able to replace that transistor. But first find whats shorted it to cause it to be switching too much current.
> Maybe the power supply or the board has gotten damp at some point.


Do you know where I could find something like that? I'm new to this sort of thing, but I do have a soldering kit and could probably pull it off if I have decent enough instructions. Thanks in advance!


----------



## UpsetChap

Well lodey that is the classic mosfet that overheats and fails on this board, see my above post that _should_ be the right part that you need. Can be tricky to replace, in addition to the soldering kit you'll need a heatgun, tweezers, tin foil and some good ol' youtube tutorial searching.

Incase anyone is wondering:


http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf540ns.pdf


That is the assumed original mosfet used, a clone of which is then put on the boards.



http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irfr3410pbf.pdf


That is the one I think will be a good replacement. Again, I'm no electrical engineer use this info at your own risk! Make sure you get the D PAK (TO-252-3)


----------



## Joeking78

Ah, just handed my Qnix down to my son for his PC after getting a native 144hz screen...Qnix never failed after more than 5 years.


----------



## LodeyDodey

UpsetChap said:


> Well lodey that is the classic mosfet that overheats and fails on this board, see my above post that _should_ be the right part that you need. Can be tricky to replace, in addition to the soldering kit you'll need a heatgun, tweezers, tin foil and some good ol' youtube tutorial searching.
> 
> Incase anyone is wondering:
> 
> 
> http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf540ns.pdf
> 
> 
> That is the original mosfet used on the board
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irfr3410pbf.pdf
> 
> 
> That is the one I think will be a good replacement. Again, I'm no electrical engineer use this info at your own risk!



Thanks for the information, can I ask how you found out about this piece and what to replace it with? You said it's a common problem, so that's good to know, what's the heat gun and foil for?


----------



## UpsetChap

Tin foil functions as a heat shield for the other components on the board, fold it a bunch of times and leave a hole in the middle for the one piece you're working on. You'll need to heat the whole board a bit to avoid cracking, then concentrate the heat on the FET and work the tweezers when the solder melts. I found the replacement from researching, reading and comparing the performance of the two parts. There's another thread talking about doing this at n-mosfet replacement on Qnix lcd monitor where he successfully replaces the FET but never mentions which exact one they used.


----------



## LodeyDodey

UpsetChap said:


> Tin foil functions as a heat shield for the other components on the board, fold it a bunch of times and leave a hole in the middle for the one piece you're working on. You'll need to heat the whole board a bit to avoid cracking, then concentrate the heat on the FET and work the tweezers when the solder melts. I found the replacement from researching, reading and comparing the performance of the two parts. There's another thread talking about doing this at n-mosfet replacement on Qnix lcd monitor where he successfully replaces the FET but never mentions which exact one they used.





UpsetChap said:


> Tin foil functions as a heat shield for the other components on the board, fold it a bunch of times and leave a hole in the middle for the one piece you're working on. You'll need to heat the whole board a bit to avoid cracking, then concentrate the heat on the FET and work the tweezers when the solder melts. I found the replacement from researching, reading and comparing the performance of the two parts. There's another thread talking about doing this at n-mosfet replacement on Qnix lcd monitor where he successfully replaces the FET but never mentions which exact one they used.



Thanks, UpsetChap! Very helpful. I'm new to soldering, but I'm willing to give it a shot, although I'd like to ask, what do you think a job like this would cost if I went to a professional?


----------



## Warrimonk

stimpy88 said:


> Just a heads up for anyone who may be interested...
> 
> I just purchased a Club 3D CAC-1510 USB-C to Dual-Link DVI adaptor for using with my QNIX QX2710 and my RTX2070. After making a custom resolution with the nVidia control panel, my monitor is back to running at 120Hz for the first time in a couple of years.
> 
> So if you have a graphics card with a USB-C output, grab this adaptor and get yourself back to some high refresh rate gaming!
> 
> Now, does anyone have some recent color profiles for this monitor? The ones recently shared here have quite a pink tint to the mid and low greys.


So, just to be clear, are you saying that by using this USB C active adapter, I can run my DVI Crossover 2795QHD at [email protected]?

I am not ready to get rid of my korean monitor, but I dont want to spend over $70 to be stuck at 1440p 60hz


----------



## Bokio

Ordered this one
*Club 3D CAC-1010*
Ill let you know guys if i can do any oc with it.


----------



## Warrimonk

Bokio said:


> Ordered this one
> *Club 3D CAC-1010*
> Ill let you know guys if i can do any oc with it.


I wonder if the CAC-1010 has the same signal processing power as the CAC-1510 ? It seems like the only difference is the connector (DP vs USB-C).

Based on some quick math, people in reviews have stated that the CAC-1010 can do 1080p @ 144Hz, sending a signal of 10GBps.
If we use 8-bit colour depth, we likely should be able to do 1440P @ 90Hz.

Hopefully it works, and thank you for taking the plunge.


----------



## stimpy88

Bokio said:


> Ordered this one
> *Club 3D CAC-1010*
> Ill let you know guys if i can do any oc with it.


This will be interesting to owners of non-USB3 cards, like the 3080 etc... All the other adaptors on the market are ****.


----------



## stimpy88

Warrimonk said:


> I wonder if the CAC-1010 has the same signal processing power as the CAC-1510 ? It seems like the only difference is the connector (DP vs USB-C).
> 
> Based on some quick math, people in reviews have stated that the CAC-1010 can do 1080p @ 144Hz, sending a signal of 10GBps.
> If we use 8-bit colour depth, we likely should be able to do 1440P @ 90Hz.
> 
> Hopefully it works, and thank you for taking the plunge.


It says it can do 4K 30Hz. Same as the USB-C version, so my hopes are high.


----------



## Warrimonk

stimpy88 said:


> It says it can do 4K 30Hz. Same as the USB-C version, so my hopes are high.


Any update on this?


----------



## Bokio

Hey, sorry for waiting. Recived it yesterday and didnt have time to try it but today i did. Good news. I can confirm that im runing qx2710led on 96hz via cac-1010. It can go up to 110hz (artifacts in my case), Wont do 120hz. Ill try and update with some pic or maybe yt video when i catch some time.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Are you able to run 96hz without artifacting?


----------



## Bokio

I am able to run 102Hz( my panel just cant go over that) without artifacts so 96Hz no problem. Using this adapter(CAC 1010) feels the same as if i would use dvi cable that came with monitor. Tried about 6 different dual link dvi cables from 1m to 2m and best results came with the one that came with monitor. For me 96Hz is just fine.


----------



## stimpy88

Bokio said:


> I am able to run 102Hz( my panel just cant go over that) without artifacts so 96Hz no problem. Using this adapter(CAC 1010) feels the same as if i would use dvi cable that came with monitor. Tried about 6 different dual link dvi cables from 1m to 2m and best results came with the one that came with monitor. For me 96Hz is just fine.


Thanks for confirming that the CAC1010 is basically the same as the CAC1510. Now people have a way to get 96+Hz on modern graphics cards.


----------



## FeelsGoodMan

Hello guys,
I think here are some experts with these monitors. 
I own a X-Star DP2710LED with only 1 Dual Link DVI-D Connection.
I recently bought a Club 3D CAC-1010 (second hand) to connect the monitor with my GTX 1070. Unfortunately the monitor doesnt seem to get a signal when i connect the monitor with the Club3D Adapter. I Used a Dual Link DVI-D Cable (it definetly works). The vendor said the Adapter worked fine 2 months ago he used it last (on a Acer Predator GN246GLBbid with Dual Link DVI-D)
Is there anything i have to look for when using the X-Star Monitor with this Adapter?A special cable?
I have to say: i just want to use my monitor [email protected]

Thanks for ansewering .

EDIT: Is there any posibillity that my cable, which seems to be a Dual Link DVI-D isnt Dual Link (--> the pins are there but not connected?)


----------



## stimpy88

FeelsGoodMan said:


> Hello guys,
> I think here are some experts with these monitors.
> I own a X-Star DP2710LED with only 1 Dual Link DVI-D Connection.
> I recently bought a Club 3D CAC-1010 (second hand) to connect the monitor with my GTX 1070. Unfortunately the monitor doesnt seem to get a signal when i connect the monitor with the Club3D Adapter. I Used a Dual Link DVI-D Cable (it definetly works). The vendor said the Adapter worked fine 2 months ago he used it last (on a Acer Predator GN246GLBbid with Dual Link DVI-D)
> Is there anything i have to look for when using the X-Star Monitor with this Adapter?A special cable?
> I have to say: i just want to use my monitor [email protected]
> 
> Thanks for ansewering .
> 
> EDIT: Is there any posibillity that my cable, which seems to be a Dual Link DVI-D isnt Dual Link (--> the pins are there but not connected?)


Sounds like a faulty adaptor to me. As you said your cable definetly works.


----------



## bloodr0se

I've had a QNIX QX2710 for nearly 7 years and have be running at the stock 60Hz mode and with a DVI-D cable. Today it has started to make an intermittent grunting/grinding type of noise when in use. Switching it off makes the noise go away and the monitor otherwise works normally. Does anyone know what might be causing this? Could it be the power supply by any chance? I'm still using the normal power adaptor that came with it.


----------



## UpsetChap

Might be the power adapter and it's an easy thing to replace and check off the list. Another thing about a replacement adapter I found is that the one I got gets nowhere near as hot as the one that came with the monitor originally, what that means for the internals or power delivery to the monitor I'm not sure but it seems like only a good thing to me. Got mine from amazon although I can't see the exact one listed anymore...


----------



## bloodr0se

UpsetChap said:


> Might be the power adapter and it's an easy thing to replace and check off the list. Another thing about a replacement adapter I found is that the one I got gets nowhere near as hot as the one that came with the monitor originally, what that means for the internals or power delivery to the monitor I'm not sure but it seems like only a good thing to me. Got mine from amazon although I can't see the exact one listed anymore...


Thanks. I think it may have actually just been the stand creaking, I placed the monitor on top of something to make it a bit more stable and the noise seemed to stop. I should probably buy a spare power brick at some point though but it annoys me that resellers obfuscate the actual model info on eBay etc so that your coerced into paying their mark up.


----------



## AWright47

Hi folks,
I've also had my QNIX QX2710LED for 7ish years and have been running off a gtx770, dvi-dvi cable which has always worked. I’ve always had an issue running it off the hdmi-dvi on that card, but have not had an issue running hdmi-dvi off my MacBook Pro 2014 To the same monitor, so I had thought it was a faulty card.

I just upgraded to an rtx 2070 wich only has 1 hdmi and 3 display ports.

The problem - There is only colours flashing on the screen on repeat (like colour profile) and/or no signal from the Card to the monitor when turned on, this is using a hdmi-dvi cable to the monitor, so what I thought was my old 770 turns out to be a monitor issue. I’ve tried hdmi to hdmi cable with a hdmi-dvi adaptor at the monitor end, with no luck. 
I bit of googling tells me this may be an Identified issue with this monitor?

Can anyone please advise of a solution (that ideally doesn’t involve getting a new monitor)?

thanks a mil.


----------



## sito85

I have ordered one of this Yogi Basic USB-C to Dual Link DVI Active Video Adapter 2560 x 1600 for MacBook Pro, Chromebook, Dell XPS, USB C Type-C: Amazon.com.au: Electronics to use with a 2080ti. My monitor used to run at 96Hz.

I will post an update when I receive the adapter to let you guys know if it works.


----------



## panosxidis

Hello Guys i have same Monitor QNIX QX2710 im really happy on 125hz with 980ti and 1080ti SLI but i need maybe to work on RTX cards i need one adapter to work 2K with 120+hz anyone help?thanks


----------



## UpsetChap

Club 3D CAC-1010 will do somewhere above 100hz, as per Bokio's posts. Will it do 120 or beyond? probably not but you never know.


----------



## panosxidis

anyone knows about this club adapter goes to 120+hz?thanks guys


----------



## panosxidis

PLEASE HELPPP


----------



## stimpy88

panosxidis said:


> anyone knows about this club adapter goes to 120+hz?thanks guys


If only you could read the last few posts of this thread...


----------



## panosxidis

so any new???can reach 120?I dont read very much because my english is not good!!little bit


----------



## bloodr0se

stimpy88 said:


> If only you could read the last few posts of this thread...


Will the Dell Bizlink adaptor get similar results? I've ordered one of those because the Club3D one is quite expensive where I am atm. If it can do 100Hz then I'd be happy with that. 

I've been using a 1080 for years but it might finally be time to start looking into an upgrade. The recent games I've played (Destiny 2 and Black Ops Cold War) seem to be pushing this card to its absolute limits.


----------



## panosxidis

Mine Monitor without adapters can easy 120HZ but i dont know with adapter can reach 120hz


----------



## panosxidis

stimpy88 said:


> Just a heads up for anyone who may be interested...
> 
> I just purchased a Club 3D CAC-1510 USB-C to Dual-Link DVI adaptor for using with my QNIX QX2710 and my RTX2070. After making a custom resolution with the nVidia control panel, my monitor is back to running at 120Hz for the first time in a couple of years.
> 
> So if you have a graphics card with a USB-C output, grab this adaptor and get yourself back to some high refresh rate gaming!
> 
> Now, does anyone have some recent color profiles for this monitor? The ones recently shared here have quite a pink tint to the mid and low greys.


Seriously you RUN your QNIX QX2710 120HZ with this adapter CAC1510???mine monitor can reach 125hz without problems on older gpus with dvi support!!if i take new card can i run 120hz like your adapter?


----------



## bloodr0se

I have received a Bizlink Xt625 and it is working with my monitor connected to a 2080 unlike the crappy AliExpress active adaptor that I tried previously.

There is one problem though. I don't get any video until my PC boots into Windows. Before then the monitor acts like no input is found. I think it might be due to USB power because I did hear a PnP Windows chime when I first booted with the adaptor plugged in. Does anyone know how I can get around this other than connecting it to a secondary USB power source?

This is only likely to be an issue if I need to go into BIOS etc.

EDIT: this was fixed by connecting the adaptor to a different USB port.


----------



## potatoparty

I've got my QNIX QX2710 working at 1440p / 100 Hz via the Club 3D CAC-1010.

No problems to report. I do get a few seconds of RGB test screen when my PC boots or if I install video drivers - but, so far, outside of this the image is completely stable.

I found this calculator useful to determine that everything was likely to work:





Bandwidth calculator - Kramer Electronics







k.kramerav.com





The CAC-1010 spec sheet says it supports 3840 x 2160 / 30 Hz / 12 bit = 10.45 Gbps

This equates to 2560 x 1440 / 8 bit @ 94 Hz.


----------



## panosxidis

potatoparty said:


> I've got my QNIX QX2710 working at 1440p / 100 Hz via the Club 3D CAC-1010.
> 
> No problems to report. I do get a few seconds of RGB test screen when my PC boots or if I install video drivers - but, so far, outside of this the image is completely stable.
> 
> I found this calculator useful to determine that everything was likely to work:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandwidth calculator - Kramer Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> k.kramerav.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The CAC-1010 spec sheet says it supports 3840 x 2160 / 30 Hz / 12 bit = 10.45 Gbps
> 
> This equates to 2560 x 1440 / 8 bit @ 94 Hz.


Nice but my monitor goes to 125HZ without adapter on 1080ti because he has DVI if i buy CAC 1010 can i 125HZ??


----------



## potatoparty

panosxidis said:


> Nice but my monitor goes to 125HZ without adapter on 1080ti because he has DVI if i buy CAC 1010 can i 125HZ??


No idea!


----------



## GerryTheLeper

I also bought the CAC 1010 adapter from Scan but I'm not having the same success at higher refresh rates. It works fine at 60 Hz (just with the RGB flash like potatoparty mentioned). Overclocking to my usual 110 Hz works fine but after a while I come back and my monitors are all frozen black and it requires a hard reset of my PC to fix. I'm using my Qnix as a secondary so stable 60 Hz is fine for me but those looking for higher refreshes, your mileage may vary!


----------



## NateZ28

Just wondering if there's any updates on this. I'm currently running a Catleap Overclock 1440p that's stable at 110 Hz. I'm wondering if I should purchase this CAC 1010 adapter for when I move to a newer video card this month, or if there's anything better out there?


----------



## potatoparty

Similar problems here @ 100 Hz with QX2710 & CAC 1010 - hard system crash occasionally when monitor turns off due to inactivity. My workaround is to disable this in Windows and to instead manually turn off the screens or send my PC to sleep (which so far seems to be fine...)

My personal verdict is that CAC 1010 works great in day-to-day use but has this one big drawback, and so it's an acceptable stopgap until I eventually upgrade.


----------



## NateZ28

potatoparty said:


> Similar problems here @ 100 Hz with QX2710 & CAC 1010 - hard system crash occasionally when monitor turns off due to inactivity. My workaround is to disable this in Windows and to instead manually turn off the screens or send my PC to sleep (which so far seems to be fine...)
> 
> My personal verdict is that CAC 1010 works great in day-to-day use but has this one big drawback, and so it's an acceptable stopgap until I eventually upgrade.


Are you using CRU to create the custom resolution/timings?


----------



## potatoparty

Nope, just the NVIDIA Control Panel.


----------



## NateZ28

potatoparty said:


> Nope, just the NVIDIA Control Panel.


Might be able to squeeze a higher refresh rate out of that panel if you used some custom timings. That’s how I was able to get to 110 HZ. But I’m not using the adapter yet.


----------



## potatoparty

I think I experimented with higher refresh rates at some point but got artifacts above 100 Hz. I'm happy enough at 100 but would be interested to know if anyone has a fix for the system locking problem. For reference, my GPU is 3060 Ti.

This screen has served me very well - it's been across the Atlantic twice in my luggage! - but I'll probably upgrade fairly soon. It would be nice to have G-/FreeSync, and visibility in dark bits of games is very poor...


----------



## NateZ28

potatoparty said:


> I think I experimented with higher refresh rates at some point but got artifacts above 100 Hz. I'm happy enough at 100 but would be interested to know if anyone has a fix for the system locking problem. For reference, my GPU is 3060 Ti.
> 
> This screen has served me very well - it's been across the Atlantic twice in my luggage! - but I'll probably upgrade fairly soon. It would be nice to have G-/FreeSync, and visibility in dark bits of games is very poor...


What would you upgrade to? Seems like any IPS panel has issues with darks. VA and OLED is still insanely expensive.


----------



## potatoparty

Perhaps VA. My wife has a VA panel with conventional backlight and it has good blacks (I'm jealous...) It wasn't particularly expensive. But no immediate plans to upgrade - my odd Korean panel lives on!


----------



## UNOE

Anyone have a batch of Color profiles I could try?


----------



## LodeyDodey

Hey guys, so I have a DP2710 that had a burnt MOSFET and did some damage to the board, wondering if there are replacement boards out there or if I should try my hand at repairing this?



http://imgur.com/cAGasKV


It did a bit of damage, but if anyone can help, that would be amazing. I was told I need to scrape off the charred bits (not sure what method is safest), then attach the mosfet to the right of the burned area.

Problem is, I don't have a heatsink to put the mosfet in. Any experts in here know what to do and could maybe draw a mock-up MS Paint image?

I'd love to repair this instead of getting a new monitor.

(The mosfet sitting on the board is the replacement, I also have some larger ones that came in a a pack that are the same, but bigger)


----------



## potatoparty

NateZ28 said:


> Might be able to squeeze a higher refresh rate out of that panel if you used some custom timings. That’s how I was able to get to 110 HZ. But I’m not using the adapter yet.


Quick follow up to say that I plugged the suggested "Exact reduced" timings from CRU into the NVIDIA utility, and my system no longer freezes on sleep when using the CAC 1010 adapter.

Might be worth trying if anyone else is having this problem!


----------



## NateZ28

Are you guys getting the version of this adapter with HDCP on or off?


----------



## potatoparty

HDCP on 😀


----------



## Atomagenesis

Got my panel in 2013, 8 years in still going strong. @120hz


----------



## juniperpansy

I have a qnix 2710 and finally tried out some gaming ha. While it can overclock to 100hz I notice at 60hz movement is really blurry. I don't see how overclocking is going to help when there is already so much motion blur. Is my experience unusual?


----------



## FurtadoZ9

juniperpansy said:


> I have a qnix 2710 and finally tried out some gaming ha. While it can overclock to 100hz I notice at 60hz movement is really blurry. I don't see how overclocking is going to help when there is already so much motion blur. Is my experience unusual?


Well, what do you mean by motion blur? A few things would help:

What hardware are you running?
Which games?
At what graphic settings are you playing the games on?
What kind of FPS are you currently getting?

When I had my QNIX, I saw a bigger improvement going from 60hz to 96hz, than 96hz to 144hz.

But again, not sure what you mean by motion blur.


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## BulletSponge

96Hz is the sweet spot for these panels. 110+ usually leads to a dim image.


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## juniperpansy

FurtadoZ9 said:


> Well, what do you mean by motion blur? A few things would help:
> 
> What hardware are you running?
> Which games?
> At what graphic settings are you playing the games on?
> What kind of FPS are you currently getting?
> 
> When I had my QNIX, I saw a bigger improvement going from 60hz to 96hz, than 96hz to 144hz.
> 
> But again, not sure what you mean by motion blur.


What I mean is that motion looks crisp when I play on an old plasma tv. On the QNIX, however, motion looks blurry and causes me to die because its harder to see what is going on. The QNIX has a dual-div input.
This sort of thing:








Maybe ghosting is the proper term?

This is playing things like Spelunky 2, rocket league, etc on with a gtx 1660 at 60hz. Framerate is fine. Is this normal?


----------



## Some Tech Nub

juniperpansy said:


> What I mean is that motion looks crisp when I play on an old plasma tv. On the QNIX, however, motion looks blurry and causes me to die because its harder to see what is going on. The QNIX has a dual-div input.
> This sort of thing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe ghosting is the proper term?
> 
> This is playing things like Spelunky 2, rocket league, etc on with a gtx 1660 at 60hz. Framerate is fine. Is this normal?


The pixel response time on the qnix qx2710 did feel a little slower than most monitors I've used. I had mine OC'd to 96hz which made it feel a bit better but for me it wasn't too bad, just had to get used to it.


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## eddownz

Hey everyone, just thought I would ask in this thread, I have a crossover 27qhd (around 2014 or something) korean monitor which I believe is the same panel as the QNIX models. Since updating my gpu I have had to resort to a *club 3d cac-1010 adapter* which has done the job but has some issues if anyone thinks they can help. First off, it does 96hz at QHD perfectly but if the monitor goes to sleep, it never wakes up. If I have 2 monitors plugged in (the Korean monitor and my main monitor which are now both DVI) when booting then I dont get any picture most of the time, instead I have to first boot the computer first with only the Korean monitor plugged in then I can plug my other monitor in. This also applied if booting the computer from sleep as well. 

Has anyone had this issue and know of any fixes other than preventing the computer or displays from going to sleep? I might try a driver reresh using ctrl, shift, windows key and 'b'. 

Many thanks.


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## Dotachin

Another happy Qnix user reporting that the hdpc on "Club 3D CAC-1010" adapter found here works 100%. 
Thanks guys! Now I can just sit and wait for that reasonably priced 32" 4k oled as looong as it takes.


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## FurtadoZ9

juniperpansy said:


> What I mean is that motion looks crisp when I play on an old plasma tv. On the QNIX, however, motion looks blurry and causes me to die because its harder to see what is going on. The QNIX has a dual-div input.
> This sort of thing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe ghosting is the proper term?
> 
> This is playing things like Spelunky 2, rocket league, etc on with a gtx 1660 at 60hz. Framerate is fine. Is this normal?


Late reply. Have you been able to overclock the panel to 96hz? Those older plasmas operate differently.

Also, does activating V-Sync help?


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## sinnedone

LodeyDodey said:


> Hey guys, so I have a DP2710 that had a burnt MOSFET and did some damage to the board, wondering if there are replacement boards out there or if I should try my hand at repairing this?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/cAGasKV
> 
> 
> It did a bit of damage, but if anyone can help, that would be amazing. I was told I need to scrape off the charred bits (not sure what method is safest), then attach the mosfet to the right of the burned area.
> 
> Problem is, I don't have a heatsink to put the mosfet in. Any experts in here know what to do and could maybe draw a mock-up MS Paint image?
> 
> I'd love to repair this instead of getting a new monitor.
> 
> (The mosfet sitting on the board is the replacement, I also have some larger ones that came in a a pack that are the same, but bigger)



I still have a Qnix that I took the panel out of but all the circuitry and case is still there. If you are in the US and interested in purchasing parts let me know.


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## Xinoxide

LodeyDodey said:


> Hey guys, so I have a DP2710 that had a burnt MOSFET and did some damage to the board, wondering if there are replacement boards out there or if I should try my hand at repairing this?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/cAGasKV
> 
> 
> It did a bit of damage, but if anyone can help, that would be amazing. I was told I need to scrape off the charred bits (not sure what method is safest), then attach the mosfet to the right of the burned area.
> 
> Problem is, I don't have a heatsink to put the mosfet in. Any experts in here know what to do and could maybe draw a mock-up MS Paint image?
> 
> I'd love to repair this instead of getting a new monitor.
> 
> (The mosfet sitting on the board is the replacement, I also have some larger ones that came in a a pack that are the same, but bigger)



I have a binned PCB at 124hz reduced.

Takes a very healthy panel to do this without overlapping or line jumping.

The panel I had is deal. If you need the PCB lmk.


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## dragnslayerlance

I have loved this monitor for years and have ran @120hz for a long time, but now I have a newer graphics card and companies don't use dvi anymore. 

I want to replace the controller in my qnix 2710 so I can use a hdmi or display port and run this monitor. I'd like a controller that can go to crazy high frequencies. because my monitor seems to be limited to the connector port
Anyone out there know of a controller that I could use?

ps i have no idea what edp connector it uses and have not taken it apart though i know some of you know a lot more about this monitor than I


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## Some Tech Nub

dragnslayerlance said:


> I have loved this monitor for years and have ran @120hz for a long time, but now I have a newer graphics card and companies don't use dvi anymore.
> 
> I want to replace the controller in my qnix 2710 so I can use a hdmi or display port and run this monitor. I'd like a controller that can go to crazy high frequencies. because my monitor seems to be limited to the connector port
> Anyone out there know of a controller that I could use?
> 
> ps i have no idea what edp connector it uses and have not taken it apart though i know some of you know a lot more about this monitor than I


If you scroll up a bit, people are trying out the Club 3D adapter, probably a more supported solution that replacing the whole adapter board completely.


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## dragnslayerlance

Some Tech Nub said:


> If you scroll up a bit, people are trying out the Club 3D adapter, probably a more supported solution that replacing the whole adapter board completely.


thank you for the response you rock!  the problem with the adapter though is that you are limited to dvi still, which is not as good as modern connectors. also replacing a "adapter board" isn't that hard imo i'll just tear it apart on my own there is a tutorial in here anyway. I was mainly just wandering if anyone knew what connector it uses.


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## gerickjohn

dragnslayerlance said:


> thank you for the response you rock!  the problem with the adapter though is that you are limited to dvi still, which is not as good as modern connectors. also replacing a "adapter board" isn't that hard imo i'll just tear it apart on my own there is a tutorial in here anyway. I was mainly just wandering if anyone knew what connector it uses.


Did you ever get around to doing this? I was thinking of doing this myself as DVI is mostly phased out at this point and I just got a new GPU. Would love to keep our Qnix monitors going as they're still going strong


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## emoose

Does anyone here happen to know the part number for the DVI+HDMI board that the later QNIX's used? or know of any pictures taken of it?

Would be great if the DVI-only board can be swapped out for it, had too many problems with active DVI->DP adapters...


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## blade7115

Just wanted to say that these monitors really are great lol. I bought a Qnix 2560x1440 around 7-8 years ago and it's still running strong with heavy daily use. At the time when 2560x1440p monitors were extremely overpriced this thing cost me only like 300 bucks. Insane value.


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## UpsetChap

emoose said:


> Does anyone here happen to know the part number for the DVI+HDMI board that the later QNIX's used? or know of any pictures taken of it?
> 
> Would be great if the DVI-only board can be swapped out for it, had too many problems with active DVI->DP adapters...





http://imgur.com/39ilGod


Bought this one from a guy who tried to wall mount only he ended up drilling into the board - still looking for a replacement as the panel functions.


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## Taslack

dascth said:


> p in series with the LED to lower the brightness. I tried a few values but landed on 10Kohm as it was really dim. Notice I also added a bit of electrical tape to insulate the red + pin from the old pad it went into.





emoose said:


> Does anyone here happen to know the part number for the DVI+HDMI board that the later QNIX's used? or know of any pictures taken of it?
> 
> Would be great if the DVI-only board can be swapped out for it, had too many problems with active DVI->DP adapters...


I am also wondering if anything can be done about this. Dont know if the newer boards are compatible with the DVI only older boards.

Picture of DVI only, old board:


https://www.overclock.net/media/no-title.4470887/full


Model Number: DPL-2560LS
Find them for a decent price if your looking to replace it:








ONIX-QX271LED MONITOR MAINBOARD DPL-2560LS.REV.01


ONIX-QX271LED MONITOR MAINBOARD DPL-2560LS.REV.01




moretvparts.com





Picture of the newer board with HDMI:





MAIN PARA MONITOR QNIX / DPL-9685D DHA LUA REV.00 / PANEL M270DAN01.0 / MODELO QX2710LED


MAIN PARA MONITOR QNIX / DPL-9685D DHA LUA REV.00 / PANEL M270DAN01.0 / MODELO QX2710LEDDPL-9685D DHA LUA REV.00 -




electronicamorelos.com




Model Number: DPL-9685D
Not so decent price, only site I have found so far:





MAIN PARA MONITOR QNIX / DPL-9685D DHA LUA REV.00 / PANEL M270DAN01.0 / MODELO QX2710LED


MAIN PARA MONITOR QNIX / DPL-9685D DHA LUA REV.00 / PANEL M270DAN01.0 / MODELO QX2710LEDDPL-9685D DHA LUA REV.00 -




electronicamorelos.com





It may be compatible with the DVI only board but looks like there may be some work to be had. Looking at Aliexpress there may be a way to get a different controller board completely, m270dan01.0 - Buy m270dan01.0 with free shipping on AliExpress , havent tried these yet either and there may be work involved in getting them to work.


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## sdahlbe

I have been using my QNIX 27" as a secondary monitor for viewing Netflix / Twitch / Youtube etc for many years now. Just recently upgraded GPU to 3080 ti, and of course there is no DVI port on the newer cards. After doing some research, I obtained an overpriced adapter that sounded like it had everything I needed, including some people in the reviews reporting that it worked with their QNIX. (wish I had read this thread first to get the cheaper Club 3D adapter everyone is talking about).

At first glance the adapter was working at 1440p 60hz and I thought I was in the clear. However upon trying to use Netflix, I was getting a "static" overlay on the whole screen, and I learned that the adapter was not working with HDCP 2.2 protected media. In NVIDIA control panel I now see an HDCP warning for the QNIX monitor that says "a _repeater_ is connected to your system". My Netflix subscription is only for basic (480p), and I thought this HDCP protection was aimed at 4k media, but apparently everything on Netflix is resulting in the static overlay.

From my initial research into this issue, which is completely new to me, it seems that the adapters are using DP 1.2 (or 1.2a for the Club 3d) which is not compatible with HDCP 2.2 that Netflix uses. From what I understand, DP 1.3+ is required for HDCP 2.2. So then I would think owners of the Club 3d adapter would be facing the same problem with HDCP, unless I'm misunderstanding.

I have a feeling this has been brought up before but this is also a 1300+ page thread so please forgive me if its a repeat. So my question then is, are there any DVI adapters out there for the QNIX which would work with HDCP 2.2 media? Or maybe it is just time to get a new secondary monitor for viewing media.


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## coelacanth

sdahlbe said:


> I have been using my QNIX 27" as a secondary monitor for viewing Netflix / Twitch / Youtube etc for many years now. Just recently upgraded GPU to 3080 ti, and of course there is no DVI port on the newer cards. After doing some research, I obtained an overpriced adapter that sounded like it had everything I needed, including some people in the reviews reporting that it worked with their QNIX. (wish I had read this thread first to get the cheaper Club 3D adapter everyone is talking about).


Return the adapter that you got and buy this one. It says HDCP supported:








Amazon.com: Club 3D CAC-1010 DisplayPort to DVI Dual-Link DVI-D Active Adapter for Your Monitor/Display - USB A Powered – 2560x1600 Resolution HDCP Supported NOT for Apple Cinema Monitors, Black : Electronics


Buy Club 3D CAC-1010 DisplayPort to DVI Dual-Link DVI-D Active Adapter for Your Monitor/Display - USB A Powered – 2560x1600 Resolution HDCP Supported NOT for Apple Cinema Monitors, Black: DVI - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## sdahlbe

coelacanth said:


> Return the adapter that you got and buy this one. It says HDCP supported:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Club 3D CAC-1010 DisplayPort to DVI Dual-Link DVI-D Active Adapter for Your Monitor/Display - USB A Powered – 2560x1600 Resolution HDCP Supported NOT for Apple Cinema Monitors, Black : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Club 3D CAC-1010 DisplayPort to DVI Dual-Link DVI-D Active Adapter for Your Monitor/Display - USB A Powered – 2560x1600 Resolution HDCP Supported NOT for Apple Cinema Monitors, Black: DVI - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


I appreciate your advice, but have to ask, because maybe I am misunderstanding something. That cable you linked says "DisplayPort 1.2a". But HDCP 2.2 says it requires display port 1.3+. Wouldn't I run into the same problem? I see the below reviews from other user on the product you suggested:

Amazon review on October 3, 2021:
"_The product works good for my main purpose of hooking my 3080ti to my older 144Hz monitor with no DVI-D port and only HDMI 1.4. Allows monitor to work correctly at 144Hz.
However, any online media that relies on HDCP (Netflix, Hulu, D+, etc.) turns the screen to static when playback starts. This is despite purchasing the version marked "HDCP ON" and not having this issue on my old card that was DVI-D on both ends. Nvidia control panel also gives an HDCP warning with this device used.
Will do the job until a proper monitor with Displayport can be obtained._"

Another amazon review on November 22, 2021:
_When I opened content that required HDCP my monitor would become slightly Fuzzy when displaying at 144hz. had to return it._

Appreciate the further discussion on this, it is new to me


----------



## coelacanth

sdahlbe said:


> I appreciate your advice, but have to ask, because maybe I am misunderstanding something. That cable you linked says "DisplayPort 1.2a". But HDCP 2.2 says it requires display port 1.3+. Wouldn't I run into the same problem? I see the below reviews from other user on the product you suggested:
> 
> Amazon review on October 3, 2021:
> "_The product works good for my main purpose of hooking my 3080ti to my older 144Hz monitor with no DVI-D port and only HDMI 1.4. Allows monitor to work correctly at 144Hz.
> However, any online media that relies on HDCP (Netflix, Hulu, D+, etc.) turns the screen to static when playback starts. This is despite purchasing the version marked "HDCP ON" and not having this issue on my old card that was DVI-D on both ends. Nvidia control panel also gives an HDCP warning with this device used.
> Will do the job until a proper monitor with Displayport can be obtained._"
> 
> Another amazon review on November 22, 2021:
> _When I opened content that required HDCP my monitor would become slightly Fuzzy when displaying at 144hz. had to return it._
> 
> Appreciate the further discussion on this, it is new to me


Interesting. Do the return anyway and put $80 back in your pocket!


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

I have a Qnix 27" that works as far as I remember. I might also have a working 32" IPS 60Hz. I need to sell or give away 1 of them.


----------



## Kaltenbrunner

Well I have 2 Q2710LED, 1 has DVI only, without the extra 4 pins, it flashes colors at least. And 1 has HDMI iirc, and the VGA, DP, DVI aren't connected, or programed.

But so far I can't get either 1 working, 1st I threw out or lost their power brick, then my 2 GPU's only have DP/HDMI. I have VGA and DVI on a mobo, but so far I don't have the right cables.

The 1 with HDMI, I took it apart already, because it seems stuck in stby mode. I never tried it's HDMI yet tho. But it's very strange that I never see any backlight, or menu/etc. IDK how it's LED's are wired, but I only see 12V on their output plug, and the monitor is powered from 12V. But I can't find a datasheet for it's output controller chips. They are on the PCB "DPL-9685D DP LAU rev03"


----------



## vato3001

Finally my Panel + Power Adapter got some Flames inside   after so many Years with 96Hz, maybe 2 Hours ago^^
But thanks God i bought a Panel from nms43 and a new Power Adapter in 2019.
Now everything is working again


----------



## snapdragon

sdahlbe said:


> I have been using my QNIX 27" as a secondary monitor for viewing Netflix / Twitch / Youtube etc for many years now. Just recently upgraded GPU to 3080 ti, and of course there is no DVI port on the newer cards. After doing some research, I obtained an overpriced adapter that sounded like it had everything I needed, including some people in the reviews reporting that it worked with their QNIX. (wish I had read this thread first to get the cheaper Club 3D adapter everyone is talking about).
> 
> At first glance the adapter was working at 1440p 60hz and I thought I was in the clear. However upon trying to use Netflix, I was getting a "static" overlay on the whole screen, and I learned that the adapter was not working with HDCP 2.2 protected media. In NVIDIA control panel I now see an HDCP warning for the QNIX monitor that says "a _repeater_ is connected to your system". My Netflix subscription is only for basic (480p), and I thought this HDCP protection was aimed at 4k media, but apparently everything on Netflix is resulting in the static overlay.
> 
> From my initial research into this issue, which is completely new to me, it seems that the adapters are using DP 1.2 (or 1.2a for the Club 3d) which is not compatible with HDCP 2.2 that Netflix uses. From what I understand, DP 1.3+ is required for HDCP 2.2. So then I would think owners of the Club 3d adapter would be facing the same problem with HDCP, unless I'm misunderstanding.
> 
> I have a feeling this has been brought up before but this is also a 1300+ page thread so please forgive me if its a repeat. So my question then is, are there any DVI adapters out there for the QNIX which would work with HDCP 2.2 media? Or maybe it is just time to get a new secondary monitor for viewing media.


I have the exact same problem. Then I chatted with the expensive adapter company and we did some test. His team member did the same test with Netflix and he did not have an issue. I then used a single DVI apple monitor with the adapter and it worked. So that means that its not an HDCP issue. Its something to do with the Qnix monitor. I tested the Qnix with AMD and NVIDIA cards. With AMD 6600 as soon as windows 11 loaded I had the issue, but with Nvidia (1060 and 3060ti) it was only when Netflix, Amazon prime or Xfinity was loaded. When closed it went back to being fine.


----------



## snapdragon

stimpy88 said:


> Many thanks for sharing!
> 
> Regarding the adaptor, I wish I knew. But after many years of buying cheap, as well as very expensive adaptors to get this monitor back to 120Hz, this is the only one that does it for me. Just don't buy the non-HDCP version!


Does NETFLIX work. I got an adapter that when NETFLIX loads I get a "static" overlay


----------

